# 20276 - Printed on the cable - What does it indicate ? ?



## See The Light

So, I have several HDMI cables attached to my Home Theater set-up, for ROKU, BD Player, and a Laptop.


All of the cables have printed on them "20276".


I just wanted to have someone officially state what the "20276" indicates on an HDMI cable.


Thanks


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## olyteddy

Got Google? 'ul20276' http://wireandcablemalaysia.blogspot.com/2013/08/ul20276-specification.html


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## Otto Pylot

Just a mfr label.


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## See The Light

olyteddy said:


> Got Google? 'ul20276' http://wireandcablemalaysia.blogspot.com/2013/08/ul20276-specification.html



Yes, thanks.... I see now that 20276 is the UL listed "style" of cable.


I must have had a "google block" that day. 


http://data.ul.com/link/stylepage.aspx?style=20276


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## PaulG

Gonna bump this thread up because I have the same markings on an HDMI cable I put in a few years back with my Oppo Blue Ray player. Wondering what it is and weather this cable is high speed or not... 


Other markings on the jacket include * E224782 AWM STYLE 20276 80c 30V VW-1 Digital Video & Audio Cable*


I can't find any record of the purchase (I think it was through Ram Electronics) and I wonder if the cable is high speed or not... will be putting in a new PJ in a couple of months...not 4k but 1080p for sure.


Its roughly a 35-40 foot run.


I'm happy enough to buy a new cable, even long runs aren't that expensive. Plus, there are some old legacy cables running to my PJ that will need to go when I install the new one, so I'll be in the ceiling and walls anyway...just hoping to find out if its NECESSARY to switch to a new HDMI cable as well or not.


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## Otto Pylot

Canned answer is this: any certified high speed hdmi cable will work. The caveat is this: if your runs are over 25' (which is the currently the certified length for passive hdmi cables) then you may want to consider a passive cable with a thicker gauge of cable or go with an active cable with Redmere technology.

If you are going to be creating new cable runs (in-wall) then I strongly recommend using a conduit. Cable specs will be changing over time so installing cable in a conduit will make it so much easier to install new cables when required. If you do that, I would recommend installing a solid core CAT-6(x) cable for future connections.


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## Otto Pylot

You were answered in post 6. The markings are probably some mfr marking that have no bearing on the actual cable spec. Replace your cables with ones that you know what their capacity is. It's better to know for sure than to guess, especially if problems occur.

See post 6 for other considerations.


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## PaulG

Otto Pylot said:


> You were answered in post 6. The markings are probably some mfr marking that have no bearing on the actual cable spec. Replace your cables with ones that you know what their capacity is. It's better to know for sure than to guess, especially if problems occur.
> 
> See post 6 for other considerations.


Fair enough - I was answered. You're exactly right...at the reasonable prices of 40 ft. Redmere cables, its worth it to just replace what's there now. When I replace my projector in a couple of months, I'm ging to pull out some legacy cables (component video) that are still connected to my current PJ, so I'll be back in the wall/ceiling anyway. Knowing is always better than guessing. 

Thanks!


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## Otto Pylot

As a suggestion, if you're pulling cable in-wall it would be best, if possible, to run conduit. That makes it so much easier to replace/add/repair cabling. If you do install conduit, I would strongly suggest running some solid core CAT-6 cable for future use. That way you have, in place, the option to extend an ethernet connection should you need it and more importantly, you can install some sort of active termination (HDBT) at both ends and push audio/video. People always ask about "future proofing" their cable installations and the best way to achieve that is to install solid core CAT-6 actively terminated. HDBT can be a bit more expensive but for an in-wall installation it's really the only way to go. Redmere is great but they do have a chipset in the sink end (tv side) that draws a bit of power so, like any electronic device, then can fail over time.


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## Joe Fernand

Cable Markings - are relevant to the cable stock used in the cable assembly. 

HDMI Certification - is applicable to the Cable Assembly (2x Connectors + relevant length of cable stock).

HDMI Certification is rarely marked on the cable jacket.

Active HDMI - is potentially a problem as UHD and HDR hit the market, the 'active' component (Chip) buried in the send or receive connector is unlikely to support UHD BD/HDR.

A couple of solid core, CAT6 (non-CCA) is, as Otto says, a good backup option!

Joe


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## xVx_K1r1t0_xVX_KillMe

Here ya go


Joe Fernand said:


> Cable Markings - are relevant to the cable stock used in the cable assembly.
> 
> HDMI Certification - is applicable to the Cable Assembly (2x Connectors + relevant length of cable stock).
> 
> HDMI Certification is rarely marked on the cable jacket.
> 
> Active HDMI - is potentially a problem as UHD and HDR hit the market, the 'active' component (Chip) buried in the send or receive connector is unlikely to support UHD BD/HDR.
> 
> A couple of solid core, CAT6 (non-CCA) is, as Otto says, a good backup option!
> 
> Joe


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## Otto Pylot

xVx_K1r1t0_xVX_KillMe said:


> Here ya go



You just replied to an almost 5 year old thread  Things have changed a bit since then.


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## niru

Not really it was 1.4b back then and its 1.4b now. Just saying.


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## Otto Pylot

niru said:


> Not really it was 1.4b back then and its 1.4b now. Just saying.


Not sure what you are referring to.


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