# DIY Shuffleboard



## dfc106

I recently finished building a 12' shuffleboard table for my basement bar. I didn't take a lot of pictures while I was building it because I really didn't think it would come out that good. But it came out pretty good after all, and most importantly it plays very well.

I put as much detail as I could remember into the description. It was pretty easy to build and its been a big hit with my friends. So if you've ever thought about building one, hopefully this helps:

http://www.davesspot.com/shuffleboard.htm


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## Newguy1

thats really great, Im almost done my theater soooooooo I think this will be the next project. I have one question for you, what is the depth of the cradle on the idside????? and about how far down in the cradle does your actual playing surface sit??? Do you have to use those levelers?????????

are they really necessary?????????


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## dfc106

The crade is about 5 1/2" from the floor of it to the top of the trim. The bolts the rails sit on are 2 1/2" long. The top of the playing surface is about 3" off the floor of the cradle. So the top of the playing surface is about 2 1/2" from the top of the cradle.


You need some way to level it. If the table is not level by even a very small amount, you will know it when you're playing. A level playing surface is absolutely the most important part of the table. Using leveling feet on the leg is the conventional way to do it. But I couldn't find any that were big enough. Usually they are small and made for a table or something with skinny legs. But either technique should work.


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## ManTown2

where did you get the levelers?


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## PAP

And where did you get the pucks or whatever they're called? Do you use sand for the top or something else? I'm feeling a project coming on....


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## ManTown2

I have one more sanding and a spray coat of poly and Im done, i think its gonna turn out really well, id love to show you guys some pics but i have no idea how to post them


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## davis80

I'm going to bring this back from the dead because I'd love to see how these have turned out for those who built them.


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## ManTown2

I honestly cant believe that people would spend 3-4 grand on a board , I made mine fr way under 300. Everyone who sees it thinks its store bought, until they see the trim work (im horrible with a mitre saw)

But now i can use the money i had budgeted for a shuffle board and go upgrade my audio


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## rtart

I saw one today at Costco for $249. Didn't look too closely, and I'm guessing you get what you pay for, but you never know..


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## Icedtea515

I think this is a great idea and am definitely considering building one. I'd like to make the top out of mdf but was wondering if it would be better to cut the mdf in strips and laminate them side to side like a butcher block. Then stagger the strips so you don't have 1 big seam in the middle of the bed (will get sagging over time I would imagine). Any ideas?


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## PAP

The reason for lamination is to reverse the ntural tendency of wood to warp/twist. As MDF is exceptionally stable, I would see no reason to do that. Putting support underneath where necessary would seem a better idea and a lot less work than trying to laminate dozens of MDF strips.


Other thoughts? This project is still on my list to do someday!


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## dfc106




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Icedtea515* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think this is a great idea and am definitely considering building one. I'd like to make the top out of mdf but was wondering if it would be better to cut the mdf in strips and laminate them side to side like a butcher block. Then stagger the strips so you don't have 1 big seam in the middle of the bed (will get sagging over time I would imagine). Any ideas?



That's exactly what I did for my first attempt at the playing surface except I used particle board cut into 1.5" strips. I thought I could keep 1 side flat by keeping that side on the floor while i laminated the pieces together. But I was horribly wrong and it was far from perfect. Without a planer there wasn't much I could do. I tried using joint compound to level it all out, then I glued faux maple hardi-board on top. It looked pretty good. But it was like playing on top of a pipe. Not much fun. It was a ton of work and produced a trash can full of dust. I eventually cut it up, thew it out, and went back to the drawing board.
Here is a pic. 


Don't worry about sagging at the seam. As long as its properly supported underneath it will be fine. Modern glues are incredibly strong.


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## bmh15

dfc106, i was wondering how your table plays compared to the expensive tables, like the ones you play with at bars.


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## dfc106

The speed and feel is about the same, aside from the smaller scale. That's controlled by the powder wax, though. It can be as slow or fast as you like. I use Sun Glo speed 5. That seems to be perfect for the size.


Other than that the only difference is that most 'real' tables are slightly concave. So if you slide a puck down the side it will go slightly towards the center. This is adjustable by the climatic adjusters. I don't know why this is desirable. But I prefer it flat anyway.


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## lmunz22

Looks great!


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## netmatt

I am probably going to tackle this project after Christmas. There are 2 changes I am considering:


1) I may try a wood veneer on top of the MDF (maple), there is a 2'x8' veneer that seems like it would work. From what I read MDF is a great substrate for Veneer.


2) Maybe try to make the bolts adjustable from under the table. How often do you find your self having to make adjustments?


Looks great!









Matt


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## terrible_buddhis

I am building an 8 foot table...how did you decide how big to make the number spaces and what size pucks are you using?


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## Greg_R




> Quote:
> 1) I may try a wood veneer on top of the MDF (maple), there is a 2'x8' veneer that seems like it would work. From what I read MDF is a great substrate for Veneer.



Yes, but the maple veneer is incredibly thin. You may want to look for some thicker veneer so it doesn't wear through. Use paper-backed veneer (so the glue doesn't leak through). Also, use a good contact cement (oil based, NOT water based).


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## mercert

I am just completing my 9' shuffleboard project now. The craddle is made from 3/4" MDF and the frame is solid oak slotted to receive the 107" MDF platform, the legs are made from 2x4 pine covered with maple plywood and solid oak sides. The playing surface is 8' long x 15" wide select pine covered with a two part epoxy about 1/8" thick. The platform has a cross support underneath every 12", the legs bolt thru the MDF top and the table is extremely solid (and HEAVY) about 225LBS! The finished table is 108" Long x 25" wide and the playing surface will be about 31" from the floor. I have posted 3 pics and will post more when I am finished.


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## martids

Is this ripped pine, jointed together for the top? How did you get it flat and smooth?


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## martids

aaa


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## mercert

The playing surface is made up from 20- 1"x 2"x 8' "select pine" boards I purchased from Home Depot, glued together as carefully as possible and then planed and sanded smooth. I coated it with envirotex lite 2 part pour on poly and it is baby butt smooth and flat! It was a lot of work to make the playing surface this way and worth every bit of the effort!


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## cdwomac

I've done a lot of handy work, but most of it didn't involve a lot of detail like this project would, although I'm fairly confident I could do it. I was thinking of doing something a little different than anyone else has. I was wondering what those who have done the project think as well as any expert woodworkers.


Here is what I got.


What I was thinking about doing for the playing surface was having a mdf base (probably 1/2") and then laying 1" x 2" x 8' choice pine on the top, using the 1" side to add to the thickness and using the 2" side for the width across the table. The 8' would obviously be for the length. I was thinking that doing it this way, the mdf base, if set up right, would provide a flat square base to start laying the pine on. The pine would make the surface more rigid as well as having the traditional shuffleboard look. Any thoughts?


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## NFLCHIEFS

Well I'm starting a new project the Shuffleboard table! Please send me your ideas for the playing surface!


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## MyWay

I think I am going to take on this project also, what do you think about using the described mdf then attaching 2.5 inch hardwood flooring from the bottom as the plaing surface? Put some thick layers of poly over the flooring to seal it as well as fill in any seams. Would this be too affected by humidity?


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## ronnocomit

Has anyone tried using plexiglass as a surface...?


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## mercert

sorry for the late posting I have been real busy!

update to my shuffleboard project:

I found that building a "dam" for the resin to "level" in was a mistake, it created a ridge that i had to sand to remove. It was like having a "bumper" to keep the pucks on the table. Lesson learned. I have since remodeled my messy garage and finally built a complete woodshop (Ka ching $$$) and have now embarked on building custom shuffleboard tables. I have refined all my processes and documented all my designs (being a retired mechanical engineer thats what we do!) so now i am off and running building my first production shuffleboard table. I will post pics of it as soon as I am able. in the mean time here are a couple of my final prototype table which plays great and has stayed consistant and level since i finished it in January.


As far as using anything other than hardwood laminated together for a playing surface, I personally would rather spend the extra money and time and make it to last and be consistant than to save time and money and end up with a less than good playing surface. I built my first surface using 1x2 home depot select pine figuring i would toss it after refining the processes needed but it is still true and straight because I used 12 pipe clamps to glue it up on a level surface and then planed it smooth and then on a VERY level surface covered it with envirotex 2 part poly resin and I have climate adjustment on the cradle to keep it that way.


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## whiskey > work




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mercert* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry for the late posting I have been real busy!
> 
> update to my shuffleboard project:
> 
> I found that building a "dam" for the resin to "level" in was a mistake, it created a ridge that i had to sand to remove. It was like having a "bumper" to keep the pucks on the table. Lesson learned. I have since remodeled my messy garage and finally built a complete woodshop (Ka ching $$$) and have now embarked on building custom shuffleboard tables. I have refined all my processes and documented all my designs (being a retired mechanical engineer thats what we do!) so now i am off and running building my first production shuffleboard table. I will post pics of it as soon as I am able. in the mean time here are a couple of my final prototype table which plays great and has stayed consistant and level since i finished it in January.
> 
> 
> As far as using anything other than hardwood laminated together for a playing surface, I personally would rather spend the extra money and time and make it to last and be consistant than to save time and money and end up with a less than good playing surface. I built my first surface using 1x2 home depot select pine figuring i would toss it after refining the processes needed but it is still true and straight because I used 12 pipe clamps to glue it up on a level surface and then planed it smooth and then on a VERY level surface covered it with envirotex 2 part poly resin and I have climate adjustment on the cradle to keep it that way.



that's really a great job!


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## Slew

Here is what I have. Its a homemade board. Playing surface is 11' x 2' of solid maple 3" thick. Yes, it is heavy! The cabinet is oak. I painted the curling rings myself as we are avid curlers and this setup also plays the standard shuffle game using the lines on the board. Felt covered bumpers were added using rubber from an old pool table. It turned out quite nice and plays great.


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## biscuit_wagon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slew* /forum/post/11350250
> 
> 
> Here is what I have. Its a homemade board. Playing surface is 11' x 2' of solid maple 3" thick.



What a great looking table! Thanks for the pics...


Can you tell us more about your surcace? I was thinking of the "dam" method but am concerned about mercert's "ridge".


What did you end up coating yours with? How did you apply it?


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## Slew

I didn't apply the urethane myself. The playing surface was built by a professional shuffleboard maker who had all the right materials and methods. I believe he sprayed it on but can't say for sure. I painted the curling rings myself before he put the final few coats on. The table is truly unique and it plays great.


Funny story... I had this in my old house for a year or two, and then we built a new place. I had the builder allow me to drop the maple piece through the floor joists into the unfinished basement before he laid the final plywood sheets on the main floor. Had some help of course. Anyways, it is in and it aint coming out. I suppose some day it will come out... as a bunch of maple cutting boards.


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## ROCKYRACCN

I'd thought I would chime in because I used this site for ideas when I built my own table. I went the "cost effective" route, being the total cost for everything (materials, weights, wax, etc...) was only *$375*!


12' table in total length. My surface is MDX - I custom painted it to take away from the fact that its not a beautiful wood grained surface like your used to seeing. I did everything you see (logo, lines, & numbers) with spraypaint and also proud to say everything else was done without a table saw. Surface is finished off with 6-7 coats of poly.


Table was built for my brother who lives in Wrigleyville,Chicago - Home of the Cubs (hence the theme). The style of buildings there are long and narrow... making the perfect addition to an akward spot off their kitchen/living room.


Thanks for the site, pics, and ideas!


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## skiier3_9

@ROCCYRACCN - That looks really nice - I'm thinking of building one of these and like your design/price! I have a couple questions.


Is the total length 12' or is that the length of the playing surface?

If its the length of the playing surface - did you use 2 pieces of plywood or did you find a 12' long section? (If 2 pieces - how did you join them?)


Could you take some more pics/close-ups of the edges/sides and legs? I'm interested to see how you finished the tops/sides, as well as your design of the legs.


If you have some higher res photos of those above - feel free to email them to me. I can PM you my email address.


Thanks!!


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## str1der

Ran across this at Samsclub. If someone is still looking to build a table the top on this workbench is a bargain. It's 1.75" thick solid maple and 6' long. I would think you could put a few of these together to make a really nice playing surface.

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...=5&item=329601


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## Cameron

Awesome stuff!


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## elmalloc

strider wont you comment on ur new shfufleboard


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14022438
> 
> 
> strider wont you comment on ur new shfufleboard



Well I just got home and my supplies arrived (cleaner, silicon spray, and powder/wax) Just finished cleaning the surface. Couldn't believe how much grime came off the surface. I sprayed on a coating off silicon and waiting for it to dry. I'll try to get some pics up here this weekend.


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## str1der

Does anyone know anything about the Silicon spray? Is it supposed to dry completely or is it supposed to be a little tacky?


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## elmalloc

I would contact mcclure he will help!


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## str1der

Well got a chance to take a few pics of the shuffleboard this weekend. As you can tell I'm just starting on the gameroom in the new house so it's a little sparse. The one photo shows the corner where I'm laying tile and building my bar.


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1874.jpg 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1875.jpg 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1876.jpg 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1877.jpg 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1879.jpg 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...r/IMG_1878.jpg


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## Cameron

Looks great! I like the mame machine in the corner too!


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cameron* /forum/post/14060638
> 
> 
> Looks great! I like the mame machine in the corner too!



Thanks. Can't wait until I actually get it finished. I wish the electronic scorers weren't so expensive. I may have to get one anyway. The manual "abacus" type scorers are always getting bumped.


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## Cameron

yeah the electronic ones that hang over the board are pretty impressive. How much do they cost alone anyway?


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cameron* /forum/post/14061705
> 
> 
> yeah the electronic ones that hang over the board are pretty impressive. How much do they cost alone anyway?



The ones like you're talking about were running between $700 - $1200


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## Cameron

You should totally get one.


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cameron* /forum/post/14067725
> 
> 
> You should totally get one.




Well now I understand your sig.


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14033027
> 
> 
> I would contact mcclure he will help!



Any word on your table yet?


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## Cameron




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14070266
> 
> 
> Well now I understand your sig.



Yeah you don't know the half of it.


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## elmalloc

i thikn my table may have arrived i have to call! It looks like your table is the lighter wood though (??). I wonder what wood grain I got. Anyway how does yoru table play?


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14073186
> 
> 
> i thikn my table may have arrived i have to call! It looks like your table is the lighter wood though (??). I wonder what wood grain I got. Anyway how does yoru table play?



I assume you're talking about the playing surface. This color is about the only color I've seen. I'm not sure I would want it darker. It seems that if it was darker it would be more dificult to see the scoring lines from the other end of the table and the pucks wouldn't show up as well.


One thing that doesn't seem consistent though is the scoring lines. The rules talk about the 1 point being any puck past the far foul line but before the 2 line. On my table and some others I've seen online there is an actual 1 point line which makes it a lot harder to score. Does anyone know if there are 2 different set of rules?


It's playing well. We got to play several games this weekend although I think maybe the carpet has settled a little more and caused a bit of drift. I need to go back and relevel again.


For those thinking about getting a table here's a little info that might be useful. On the smaller tables (shorter and narrower than the big 22 footers) the accessories don't exactly work. I bought a table brush and Tsquare but they're to wide. I will need to cut them down to size because they wouldn't fit in the cradle.


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## elmalloc

Mine is in, will be delivered next Friday. I'll let you know what I think.


The competitor on their website shows a 1 point line:










WHen I've played, 1 point is anything past the foul line. THat rule is good for LONGER tables I think!!


So basically if you don't have a 1 point line, to me that means your table is "Longer". I think you have a 14ft (like me) and is considered to be long enough to where theere is no need for a 1 point line.


You will learn to enjoy that rule, but maybe 14 ft isnt long enough? I only have 19 feet of room so I had to go 14 otherwise nobody would have room to stand. =( I love the 22 ft tables.


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## str1der

So are you saying we should ignore the 1 point line and since it doesn't have foul lines make everything between mid line and the 2 line count as 1?


Did you end up getting the an elctronic scorer?


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## elmalloc

yes I'm saying that...I guess our tables are SHORTER and sort of forced a 1 point on us.


I didn't get any scorer.


I'm hesitant on my wood colour, I've seen both and highly prefer the darker playing surface...see the colour difference in this seemingly darker grain with lots of contrast?


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## Cameron

Photo isn't working.


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## elmalloc

Intersting. what happened..never seen imageshack lose a photo like that?


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## elmalloc

It came in and is set up. I must adjust the climatic adjusters slightly to fix some slight warp/tilt to the side..but other than that..marvelous.


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## str1der

Looks sweet. Is the playing surface the color you wanted?


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## elmalloc

Shoud I have put the abacus scorers on the same side of the table? WOOPS!!!


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## Cameron

Wow that looks really great there! So how many hours have you played on it now?


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## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14131111
> 
> 
> Shoud I have put the abacus scorers on the same side of the table? WOOPS!!!



Don't think it really matters but I think you'll find, that like me, when you're playing you'll be hitting them and screwing up the score so keep the score in your head also.


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## Cameron

That looks so cool. I want one, but I have never played shuffleboard.









I had better not try it, I would then need one and that is where the trouble begins!


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## elmalloc

I have played only 20 minutes, I have to adjust it with a wrench. a 3/4" wrench does not fit it...


I will let ya'll know after I get it adjusted. Oh funk, I thought these things should have only been 1K...


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## jdubya123

Hey~ I'm trying to build a couple economy level shuffleboard tables for our student center. There is a real interest in playing but I can't afford to go out and get a couple nice tables. I found this epoxy at Lowes, has anyone used it, or do you guys think it would work. Here's the link

w.eclecticproducts.com/glazecoat.htm 


If not what works best...thanks for your help!


Sorry for dropping the first 2 w's in the link, it wouldn't let me post the url yet since I just signed up....


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## garv3

hey...anybody still on this thread??? i'm looking to build a table, but my main question is how is the playing surface mounted/attached to the cradle surface itself??? and where do the climate adjusters come in???


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## peterj0hnson

If any one is still on this, im currently under construction of my own table. I made the playing surface out of 20 1x3x10 maple boards, glued together and planed. I have just finished painting it as you can see in the photos, and I am just about to coat it with a 2 part hi gloss polymer.


Specific question for MercerT if he still exists on here. You said the moat you made around the first table when you poured the poly made a ridge. Is it better to just pour the poly on and let it trickle off the sides? I am worried that the edges will be slanted down and the pucks with fall of easier.


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## elmalloc

Looks great, if it comes out well Ill ask you to make me one for $999 OK


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## hotloc5

I just finished a shuffleboard / curling table myself. Got a lot of guidance from Dave's website.


I documented the process with pics. If you're a beginner like me, it may be helpful.










buildashuffleboard.com


-Patrick


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## elmalloc

how much did it cost you, and what are the boards dimensions including thickness?


Thanks!


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## hotloc5

The project-specific materials cost me $495. I also had to buy all the tools, because this was my first project. With everything it came in at $837.


Dimensions for the playing surface on my board are 16 feet by 20 inches. Full details of the dimensions, blueprints, pictures, etc. are here: http://buildashuffleboard.com .


Let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck if you decide to give it a try!


-Patrick


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## scottyk

Hello...I am really hoping the OP is still on here...


I am currently working on my own shuffleboard, and admittedly am a beginner to this sort of thing.


Here is my issue:


How is the playing surface secured to the structure? From everything I've seen/read, it seems like people are just having them "float", without actually securing them at all. My table is only 8 foot, so it seems like it would move around if somebody bumped it or leaned on it?


Can someone please off some advice here? I thought about using a few dowell pegs to help secure it down. However, being such a beginner, I am worried that I will screw up the entire playing surface.


HELP!


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## Vanderloop

My 15' table built from an old bowling alley.


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## Vanderloop

  
 


and the behind the bar shot


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## t-town oil

Sweet!


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## JoePit

I'm trying to bring this thread back from the dead. I just bought some bowling alley wood to make a table and am looking of any advice on the best way to build a table from it. Vanderloop your table looks great! Can you tell me how you put the 2 pieces of bowling alley wood back together? Also can you give me any hints/ideas that might help me create my table. I am quite a novice with wood working so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for everyone's help.


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## ldo2626

mercert said:


> sorry for the late posting I have been real busy!
> update to my shuffleboard project:
> I found that building a "dam" for the resin to "level" in was a mistake, it created a ridge that i had to sand to remove. It was like having a "bumper" to keep the pucks on the table. Lesson learned. I have since remodeled my messy garage and finally built a complete woodshop (Ka ching $$$) and have now embarked on building custom shuffleboard tables. I have refined all my processes and documented all my designs (being a retired mechanical engineer thats what we do!) so now i am off and running building my first production shuffleboard table. I will post pics of it as soon as I am able. in the mean time here are a couple of my final prototype table which plays great and has stayed consistant and level since i finished it in January.
> 
> As far as using anything other than hardwood laminated together for a playing surface, I personally would rather spend the extra money and time and make it to last and be consistant than to save time and money and end up with a less than good playing surface. I built my first surface using 1x2 home depot select pine figuring i would toss it after refining the processes needed but it is still true and straight because I used 12 pipe clamps to glue it up on a level surface and then planed it smooth and then on a VERY level surface covered it with envirotex 2 part poly resin and I have climate adjustment on the cradle to keep it that way.


Do you mind sharing what you have found to be the best way to use the resin? I realize this thread is about 9 years old, but I'm hoping you can help. I'm in the middle of a table refurbish and I want to do it right. Thanks!


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## jonnyphoto1

Really nice job on the build!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mastermaybe

another thread revival!

Finished mine. I basically did everything myself. Sketched my logos and sent them to a decal guy who did a good job with them, I think. Made my scorers out of toy car hobby wheels and thread spools.

Regarding mounting the board and leveling/climatic adjustments...

My table is about 10' with a 9' playing surface. I used (6) hangar bolts that screw into the cradle and (literally) BITE into the underside of the maple- it DOES NOT MOVE. I can easily adjust the bolts by screwing/unscrewing the bolts from below the board's surface (mine is about 2" raised off the cradle bottom).

For climatic adjusters, I made my own. Got four lenghts of rectangular/tubular steel just short of the width of the table. Drilled three holes to accept some 2" bolts: one a 1/2" from either end, one dead middle. Adjusters went a foot from either end and then about 2 1/2 towards the center from there.

I sunk 3 threaded bolt receivers into the underside of playing surface to receive said bolts for the four adjusters. Then, I added the bolts and nuts- a nut on underside and top of the tubular steel. Onward, making sure I started all 3 nuts even, top and bottom, I made adjustments by tightening either the bottom or top nut of the MIDDLE bolt. 

Tightening the top nut "pushes the center up, as the screw doesn't rotate and the tubular steel wants to flex back or UP. Tightening the bottom screw draws the middle of the board DOWN, as the nut is drawing up, while the screw is stationary, thus, drawing the board DOWN when the steel length wants to flex back down to its natural state.

Wanted to explain that for people as adjusters are hundreds of dollars and one can easily do this themselves. It took a bit of thought but it works. 

Pics:











thanks
James


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## Hamermaster

I built one a few years ago;


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