# Any PowerRise Hunter Douglas Motorized Shade Experince Here?



## bradesp

My wife and I are looking to retrofit total room darkening shades for our family room to allow for use of a projector / home theater system. I don't want unsightly wires and plugs dangling everywhere so I was intrigued by the Hunter Dougles Battery Powered PowerRise Motorized Shade system.


Does anyone have experience experience with PowerRise and if so, can you please share your experience?


Lastly, if you have other battery powered, motorized and remote controlled shade suggestions please let me know.


Thanks!


bradesp


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## maddogmc

I have two motorized (36" x 72") blackout shades in our bedroom. They are not Hunter Douglas but are suppose to have the same electro-mechanical assembly as the HD's. They were installed in November, are raised and lowered every day and I haven't had to change the batteries yet.


I purchased them from:  http://www.shadesshuttersblinds.com/index.asp 


No affiliation etc., just a satisfied customer.


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## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradesp* /forum/post/11650683
> 
> 
> My wife and I are looking to retrofit total room darkening shades for our family room to allow for use of a projector / home theater system. I don't want unsightly wires and plugs dangling everywhere so I was intrigued by the Hunter Dougles Battery Powered PowerRise Motorized Shade system.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience experience with PowerRise and if so, can you please share your experience?
> 
> 
> Lastly, if you have other battery powered, motorized and remote controlled shade suggestions please let me know.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> bradesp



I just got some of these and love them. Let me know if you have any questions.


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## emcgrath




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradesp* /forum/post/11650683
> 
> 
> My wife and I are looking to retrofit total room darkening shades for our family room to allow for use of a projector / home theater system. I don't want unsightly wires and plugs dangling everywhere so I was intrigued by the Hunter Dougles Battery Powered PowerRise Motorized Shade system.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience experience with PowerRise and if so, can you please share your experience?
> 
> 
> Lastly, if you have other battery powered, motorized and remote controlled shade suggestions please let me know.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> bradesp



I have 3 of them (H-D) for 3 years. Batteries last for about 9-12 months using them daily. They work.


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## Ryan Wright

Hi folks,


I know this is an old thread, but I had question: How loud are these things? I have some old Springs Window Fashions shades with the AutoVUE power option. I hate them, they're quite loud. They make a mid-pitched "weeeweeeweeeweee" sound when they're moving. I'm remodeling the entire room and am replacing the blinds, and I'm looking for a motorized blackout option that's quieter.


I've found some AC powered units that are likely silent, or nearly so, but the problem I'm running into is I have some 22" wide windows... and it appears the Hunter Douglas PowerRise is the only motorized option that will go that skinny.


So, any more info on the noise these things make, etc, would be most appreciated. Also, if anyone has integrated these into a home automation controller, would love details there, too. My AutoVUE system used a dual-frequency IR remote to combat sunlight and made integration with automation equipment difficult. I wound up buying a spare remote to tear apart and trigger via relays. Not ideal.


Thanks in advance.


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## Deane Johnson

There's been a lot of discussion on integrating PowerRise with home automation. You might find it with a search, not sure. The old units could to a small degree, and there is an ESI module made for the old PowerRise, but not the current units that are now on the market.


Bottom line is that it's pretty much impossible. The PowerRise now uses a combination of RF and IR, something that can't be accomplished with home automation to my knowledge.


This is a sad state of affairs for us HA users, as the PowerRise is a great product. It's pretty quite, about as quite as anything on the market. Sadly, I don't think we're going to be using it much with home automation.


I spent 2 1/2 hours face to face with the sales manager of the company that designed and builds the new PowerRise mechanism and every technical approach I tried with him as a method of utilizing them in HA failed to produce a possible result.


The biggest technical issue from the beginning is that the PowerRise goes to sleep to conserve batteries. It has to be awakened before it gets it's commands.


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## Ryan Wright

Well, no biggie on the automation. I'll just buy a spare remote, hack it open and trigger it's buttons with relays. My old AutoVUE blinds have been working this way for years; it's a bit of a hack but is effective and reliable. You can put the torn up remote in a small Radio Shack project box and hide it in a closet.


My biggest concern is the noise of the PowerRise system. I'd love to hear perspectives on that from owners. I hate these loud AutoVUE blinds and don't want to repeat that expensive mistake. I'd rather have non-motorized blinds than listen to these things screech at me anymore.


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## Deane Johnson

I consider the PowerRise very silent, but our perceptions might be different.


I have never heard the Autovue and don't know which motors they use, but I have some Hunter Douglas EasyRise motorized. These use the Somfy motors and are disgustingly noisy. When my six all go at once, they sound like an Air Force KC135 tanker in the landing pattern that passes over my house, and I'm a good 10 miles from the end of the runway. I would speculate that the Autovue might use this same motor as Somfy sells it elsewhere.


Why don't you try to hear a PowerRise operate. Most dealers have an operating model in their showroom. My guess is that you will be happy, but as I said, we might have different expectations.


If you do decide to tear the remote apart and modify it, why don't you consider documenting your work and posting it. There is a lot of interest around in achieving some interfacing and I think your experience with it would be appreciated.


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## Ryan Wright

Deane,


Thank you for the response. I'm going to check the PowerRise out next Friday; the closest dealer that has these available for demo is about 2 hours away. I'm glad to hear they aren't very loud. I found some YouTube footage of these and some of them were fairly loud, but others weren't, so I'm wondering if the loud ones were the old style. The ones that were quiet were REALLY quiet, so I'm hoping that's what is in store for me.


Your experience with the "EasyRise" noise levels mirrors mine exactly. My system is incredibly loud. In fact, I'm nearly positive the old Hunter Douglas designs DID use the AutoVUE system, or something very similar. I recall being unhappy with the noise on my motors when I bought the blinds 8 years ago and I considered returning them in favor of the more expensive Hunter Douglas stuff, but I remember the Hunter Douglas remote and headrail looked identical to mine, so I assumed they were identical. Based on your reports of noise, they probably were.


I'd be happy to document my remote interfacing. It was quite easy on the AutoVUE system. That system was pure IR, but it used a pair of IR transmitters on wildly different wavelengths and both had to transmit at the same time. I think they did that to combat sunlight, but the result was no IR learning system could learn the codes. So, I bought an extra remote, tore it apart and wired relays to the up/down buttons. I then replaced the remote's IR diodes with A/V style stick-on emitters, hid the remote in a closet and routed the IR signal over in-wall cat-5 to the emitters on the blinds. It works perfect, though I do have to replace the batteries in the remote once a year or so because I never got around to putting a 3v DC power supply on it.


Since the Hunter Douglas system uses RF, I'd imagine this will be even easier, as I won't have to route any IR signals. Just hide the remote somewhere in the room and I should be good to go.


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## TimmyH

Any update?


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## Ryan Wright

My blinds have been ordered and are due to arrive in a couple more weeks. Holy cats these things are expensive. $3,000 for one room (five windows).







And I didn't pay anywhere near retail.


Hacking the remote should prove easy. I'll open it up and connect leads to the various buttons, then connect those to an AMX relay board. The automation system will then be able to "push" any of the four group buttons & the up/down buttons to actuate the blinds. Since the group functions are RF controlled, the remote can stay hidden away in a drawer and won't have to point at the blinds. I don't expect any problems here. I'll take pictures and post it, but really, anyone can do this, there isn't much to it... This is how I automated my old blinds.


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## kn0x




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ryan Wright* /forum/post/14920283
> 
> 
> Since the group functions are RF controlled, the remote can stay hidden away in a drawer and won't have to point at the blinds.



Brings up a good question -- Learning remotes can replicate IR signals, is there an RF remote (or something) that can replicate RF signals?


This goes beyond your blinds - My ceiling fan's also RF and thought it'd be cool to add it to the HA mix.


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## Ryan Wright

 Here you go, folks. Basic instructions on how to automate PowerRise. As I said, this was very easy; I simply bought an extra remote, took it apart, soldered wire leads to the button contacts and attached those to relays. The PowerRise remote uses those obnoxious rubber buttons, which can't be re-used once you solder to the contacts and you really need actual buttons to program the thing, so I wound up putting some buttons on it, too. Plenty of pics & info at the link.


Feel free to ask any questions here.


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## Deane Johnson

Nice job of documenting Ryan.


In case anyone is interested, here is a link to a simple procedure for cloning an additional Platinum remote.

http://www.designerblinds.com/CSTips/CSTips_291.htm


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## pablito1755

Rather good timing this thread...


I'm planning my pre-wire next week and was doing some research on hard-wiring for motorized shades. The Hunter Douglas seem to be very attractive for a number of reasons especially now that I've found a possible automation solution... well done Ryan! Anyway, I'm a little unclear as to the nature of their hard-wired solution and how they compare to the PowerRise (the battery powered solution).


Does anyone know much about them? I used to think that all the HD shades used Somfy motors, but in reading this thread it sounds like that is no longer the case? Or is that just for the battery operated shades? I've seen tried a battery version locally and was impressed with how quiet it was, but if the hard-wired solution is noisy... that would be a major drawback.


Anyway, technical details are a bit scarce on their site. A spec sheet would sure be nice as I'd I'd especially like to know at what DC voltage they need to be powered? It would seem reasonable to assume 12V given the number of AA batteries needed, but are there other options? 24V? How much of a voltage drop can they tolerate... as my power cable runs may be a bit long (sub 100' range I think). How much current do they draw?


Ryan: I'm curious, but what type of range can you get out of the remote? Would one of these be needed per room, per floor or just one for the house tucked away somewhere "in the middle"? I'm just looking for a general idea of what to expect. Our house is three stories and (given enough time) I may well end up with motorized shades on all 3 floors.


Anyway, all pointers would be great.


Paul


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## Ryan Wright

Hey Paul, sorry I didn't reply last year. I just now stumbled upon your question.


In regards to range, it's pretty poor. Maybe 25 feet on the stretch. I have my remote hidden in a cabinet in the room and it works fine, also works fine in the adjoining kitchen, but if I walk past the kitchen the blinds quit responding.


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## Jasonn B

Just to let you guys know, there is now PowerRise 2.0 that came out in early May. If you are using wireless shades, there is now a way that you can control with a universal IR remote. I'm told you can run wire to a wall IR switch, then you can control them...


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## Jasonn B

Thanks. Any tips to get Powerrise 2.0 to work with X10? If so, then I could get it to work from my iphone I bet.


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## Deane Johnson

Jasonn:


Hunter has a new plug in RF device that causes the shade to go up when it senses AC and down when it senses the AC is removed. It's small and simply plugs into a wall socket.


It can operate a single shade or a group of shades.


I am using one plugged into a Z-Wave appliance module to raise and lower a PowerRise 2.0. You could use it with an X-10 appliance module just as well. Anything that adds or removes the AC to the device, even a wall switch operating a wall socket.


Deane


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## Jasonn B

Cool, I remember us talking about something coming out like that.


1) Do you have a link to it??


2) So, then the shade runs off ac power, instead of batteries then as well?


3) This will only work for 2.0? If you have 1.0, no go?


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## Deane Johnson

1) Do you have a link to it??


I don't find it anywhere on the internet, and certainly not on the Hunter Douglas site which has been a terrible site for years.



2) So, then the shade runs off ac power, instead of batteries then as well?


The shade is unchanged by this device. My shade is AC from a wall cube. If you are using battery now, you can go right on using battery.


The device is nothing more than a small remote control that is triggered by the power line. It is called a Platinum RF Adapter. Your dealer will find it on page PT-9 of their HD reference guide.


It uses a coin type lithium battery (expected life-2 years). The AC is only to activate it, not power it. The battery powers the transmitter. Battery life is long because it's only on for a brief burst to transmit the pulse to the shade.


The device looks like a large replacement male plug you might buy to put on the end of an AC cord. When it gets AC, it transmits an UP command to the shade, when the AC goes off, it transmits a down command.


When I first got the device, I walked around sticking it in various sockets. When I stuck it in the socket, the shade went down, when I pulled it out, it went up. It has about the same range as the Hunter hand held remote, perhaps slightly better. In other words, it will operate shades within most rooms.



3) This will only work for 2.0? If you have 1.0, no go?


It will only work with 2.0.


Hunter Douglas products cannot be sold on the internet, so the only place to get it is at your local dealer. I don't recall the MSRP, but that doesn't mean much anyway. My guess is that you might expect to find it for somewhere around $100-$125 at your dealer. They will probably never have heard of it and will have to order it from Hunter. Mine took less than a week to get here.


It has worked very well, having never failed. Your failure will likely come from your X-10 module not responding to a command, if there is a failure.


EDIT: I should also add that Hunter has a new "Connection Interface" for the PowerRise 2.0 that allows for hardwire, momentary contact (1 sec.) control of the shades. I used one while waiting for the RF module and it's clutsy to hook up and I don't like it. It does, however, work. They also have a sun sensor which transmits a down command when it sense a certain light level, which is adjustable. I have never cared for these either, but they are available.


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## steph.sheffield

You guys are amazing...reading through this and the other threads from '07 and earlier....wow! My question is very simple. I have the Hunter Douglas PowerRise Timer. Two weeks ago, I managed to drop it, brake it. We have never mounted it or put it on a time schedule. We only close our 11 blinds all at once if there is something on TV in the middle of the day and the sun is causing a glare or when we are showing them to friends who have not seen my favorite toy! A few other occasions, but we have only changed batteries twice since installed in August, 2005. We never had any problems with this PowerRiser remote. Does any one know where I can get a replacement. The guy who sold and installed said Hunter Douglas sent them one that would not work and apparently the technology has changed. There has to be one somewhere!


Thanks!

Stephanie


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## DonsDraperyInc

Stephanie I am a Hunter Douglas Gallery Dealer in Southern California and am a certified motorization specialist. I have a stock of old style remotes and timers do you have a picture of the old one that is broken, I could ship you a replacement if I have one in stock.


In regards to automating a Powerise 2.0 shade I have a simple solution that can be controlled with serial, cc, and IR that is plug and play. It also has an optional hardware piece that allows for iphone control using a free app with a simple gui interface I've designed. Let me know if anyone is interested.


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## Audiophiliac

We tried learning IR codes from the HD remote for some PowerRise shades and it would not work, no matter what I tried. Is there something odd about the codes that do not allow them to be learned in the traditional method? I tried learning on an older Marantz RC5200 and a URC MX850. Neither would work. Also, none of the codes in the URC database work either.


Any ideas? The HD IR remote works but only if you are within about 8' of the IR sensor.


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## DonsDraperyInc

Any ideas? The HD IR remote works but only if you are within about 8' of the IR sensor.[/quote]



Are these the newer powerise 2.0 with RF and IR or the older just ir shades???


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## Deane Johnson

I have had great success in learning the older PowerRise IR codes with my Pronto TSU-2000. Works better than the Hunter remote. Not all brands learning remotes work well, however.


PowerRise 2.0 cannot be used in a learning remote. The reason is that there are actually two transmissions with a button push. An RF transmission to wake the receiver up, then the IR code to raise or lower the shade.


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## Audiophiliac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/20852228
> 
> 
> I have had great success in learning the older PowerRise IR codes with my Pronto TSU-2000. Works better than the Hunter remote. Not all brands learning remotes work well, however.
> 
> 
> PowerRise 2.0 cannot be used in a learning remote. The reason is that there are actually two transmissions with a button push. An RF transmission to wake the receiver up, then the IR code to raise or lower the shade.



Thank you for the information. WTF??!! Who on earth thought that would be a good idea? I would love to hear the engineers' logic behind that one. I remember looking at the HD website and IIRC, they advertise the Power Rise 2.0 products as being available with either IR or RF control. That is primarily false....misleading at best. The choices should be RF only or the silly RF/IR combo....with an asterisk that points out that you CANNOT use any other IR learning remote to operate these products. Brilliant!


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## Deane Johnson

Hunter makes great and innovative products, but their record of acheivement on electronics is abysmal. To make it even more non-understandable, they own one of the best electronics companies in the US. (Electronic Solutions Inc.)


To make things clear, the PowerRise 2.0 can be operated with the Hunter remote using RF only, or using the IR on the same remote.


Hunter now makes a small AC operated RF module that will run them. Remove power and they go down, apply power and they go up. I use one of these with a Z-Wave appliance module and it's working great.


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## humbug2

i have 3 Duettes with PowerRise operated by a wireless wall switch that is about 10-20 feet away from their sensors. They usually work but occasionally it takes a second or third selection of a shade and "all" frequently does not select all.


I also have a Leviton z-wave network that has irregularity problems. I do not think the combination would be suitable for something you want to always work like when you are away for an extended period.


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## Deane Johnson

So that the availability information is complete, Hunter also has a momentary switch contact interface for PowerRise 2.0. I think it's rather poorly designed, but I used it for a while and it seems to be pretty much 100% reliable. It takes two relays, and 3 wires. A common, and one for up, one for down.


Hunter's RF and IR control just plain misses the target by a little bit. It's way up from the old days when the best I could get out of my EasyRise IR control was about 50% reliability.


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## DonsDraperyInc

It was explained to me that the use for the rf signal followed by the ir signal allows for the power to shut off while the shades are idle, and the RF is used to wake the shades then accept the ir signal that follows.


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## Deane Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc* /forum/post/20884698
> 
> 
> It was explained to me that the use for the rf signal followed by the ir signal allows for the power to shut off while the shades are idle, and the RF is used to wake the shades then accept the ir signal that follows.



That is also my understanding.


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## hooter70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc* /forum/post/20824052
> 
> 
> Stephanie I am a Hunter Douglas Gallery Dealer in Southern California and am a certified motorization specialist. I have a stock of old style remotes and timers do you have a picture of the old one that is broken, I could ship you a replacement if I have one in stock.
> 
> 
> In regards to automating a Powerise 2.0 shade I have a simple solution that can be controlled with serial, cc, and IR that is plug and play. It also has an optional hardware piece that allows for iphone control using a free app with a simple gui interface I've designed. Let me know if anyone is interested.



Hi,


Do you happen to have AC transformers that you can sell? My shades were purchased in 2009, so I think that means that I need an AC transformer that is different than the model that is currently being sold (at least that is what Hunter Douglas told me).


Also, one of my motorized shades became non-responsive yesterday. I have three different remotes and eight shades total. I can control all the shades with all the different remotes, except I cannot control this one shade with any of the remotes. In other words, the motorization seems to be "broken." I went out and purchased all new batteries, and it is still non-responsive. I am going to get a volt meter to probe voltages in various places. Maybe a wire is broken?


Do you have any advice on how to troubleshoot this problem? Is it going to be totally useless to speak with a Hunter Douglas technician?


Thanks,

HB


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## humbug2

Duette PowerRise with Satellite Eye "repaired" by H-D and returned 08-04. Eye does not work from wall switch. Email -> call -> dealer. 08-17: I get an eye with a 20" cable to replace the 48" one I use. Useless. Take it to dealer. 8-31: I get a 48" cable with a 6-pin connector to replace the 5-pin connector. Email summary of history to H-D customer support and dealer. No response as yet. 2 months since problem first occurred and still not solved.


YMMV and I hope it does. I have decided that H-D PowerRise is not suitable for something you need to work regularly.


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## DonsDraperyInc

The wall switch is RF and learned to the motor before it is installed into the wall. HD probably replaced the motor therefore the wall switch must be re-learned to the new motor. I could walk you through the steps of learning the motor it is a simple process!!!


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## humbug2

DonsDraperyInc:


With the Satellite Eye received with the "repaired" Duette I used the instructions in H-Ds manual to program the shade. I was able to control the shade using the wall switch in program mode or by the satellite eye manual button. It failed to work for that particular shade in normal mode. I have programmed other PowerRise shades without issues. I exchanged email with, then a phone call, to H-D customer support who said the Satellite Eye was the problem and to go see my dealer.


My dealer has been most supportive and called H-D about my problems while I was there. H-D just can't seem to get me a usable (5-pin, 48" cable), working Satellite Eye.


An additional annoyance is the response time. I would expect normal ground-shipment on parts orders. But when a device is unusable and the problem is the vendors sending a wrong or inoperable part, corrective action should involve overnight or two-day shipping. They have saved a few dollars and lost several thousands of future sales.


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## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/20545668
> 
> 
> Jasonn:
> 
> 
> Hunter has a new plug in RF device that causes the shade to go up when it senses AC and down when it senses the AC is removed. It's small and simply plugs into a wall socket.
> 
> 
> It can operate a single shade or a group of shades.
> 
> 
> I am using one plugged into a Z-Wave appliance module to raise and lower a PowerRise 2.0. You could use it with an X-10 appliance module just as well. Anything that adds or removes the AC to the device, even a wall switch operating a wall socket.
> 
> 
> Deane



I was able to find more info here:










http://www.automatedshadeinc.com/fil...40111_0511.pdf 


These are too expensive at $137 each. I would need multiple ones for different shades










I'm assuming I'd need three, if I have a shade in the family room I want to operate independently, one in the bedroom, and one in my office, correct? I'm assuming you can have multiple of these adapters and it won't confuse the other shades?


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## Deane Johnson

You are correct, you would need 3 RF adapters to operate 3 separate shades individually. There are a total of 4 channels available.


There would be no limit as to how many shades in a single room you could program to respond to a single RF adapter so long as they were all on the same channel.


Multiple channels can also be used in the same room, but would, of course, each require a separate RF adapter.


I've had one operating for several months now, used several times daily, and it's never failed.


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## Jasonn B

Thanks again, especially for your super detailed replies!


I have to send my 1.0 shade in to get retrofitted to 2.0. I have a mix of 1.0 and 2.0. Have you heard anything about them updating again? maybe a 3.0? Just wondering.


Also, there is really no way to automate the wireless 1.0, right? Can't remember. Wish that RF adapter would work with a 1.0 shade. Actually, you think it would and could.


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## Deane Johnson

I have heard nothing about further updates to the PowerRise 2.0, and I would not expect any. There could be, from time to time, small unannounced internal changes.


Updating from 1.0 to 2.0 is a little bit expensive.


I have, I believe, succeeded in connecting 1.0 to my home automation system. It has been operating a couple of weeks now with no failure so far.


Without going into a lot of detail here, I use Elve software, a Global Cache 100-6 IR interface, a Xantech powered distribution block, and IR stick-on emitters. Not as simple as the RF adapter, but it is working with no modification to the shades.


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## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21005207
> 
> 
> I have heard nothing about further updates to the PowerRise 2.0, and I would not expect any. There could be, from time to time, small unannounced internal changes.
> 
> 
> Updating from 1.0 to 2.0 is a little bit expensive.
> 
> 
> I have, I believe, succeeded in connecting 1.0 to my home automation system. It has been operating a couple of weeks now with no failure so far.
> 
> 
> Without going into a lot of detail here, I use Elve software, a Global Cache 100-6 IR interface, a Xantech powered distribution block, and IR stick-on emitters. Not as simple as the RF adapter, but it is working with no modification to the shades.




Ok, so new newly designed powerrise for 2012 planned? I debating if I should wait to upgrade the 1.0 to 2.0, if there was something newer coming....


Interesting setup on getting 1.0 to work. All I have is X10 everything, not sure if I could get 1.0 to do what you did.


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## Deane Johnson

Not with X-10. You'd have to start a whole new journey.


So far, it appears to me that the Global Cache is the best IR interface I've come across. It runs on my LAN.


I use Elve to control it, and everything else in my HA. Turned out to be a great choice. There are probably other methods to send IR through Global Cache, I just haven't had reason to learn about them. Elve is so reasonable and robust, yet simple to program, I just never looked any further.


If you're interested in seeing my hookup, if you'll PM me your email address I'll send you a PDF with a block diagram of the control system.


Just so you know, the old PowerRise 1.0 was virtually unchanged for about 10 years. The new 2.0 was under test for about 2 years. The HD track record is not to change it very often, so for that reason I wouldn't expect anything new very soon. My guess would be beyond 5 years.


Deane


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## clsimmon

Hi, I currently have 3 duette shades side by side which are currently on battery power. I got my Sony RM-AV3000 to learn the commands of the HD remote so I am now controlling the blinds centrally with the rest of my A/V using the macros included in my Sony remote.


About 90% of the time all works well, however the other 10% one of the IR receivers in the HD head-rail doesn't pick up my signal from the Sony remote. Additionally, I'm getting tired of replacing batteries.


Therefore, I'm considering running hardwired power from the attic above using HD's AC transformer and daisy-chain connectors. That fixes my power issues, but I still want to sync the shades beyond that of the unreliability of IR x 3.


I know there are ports on the head-rails for satellite IR eye's but I have not seen any details on daisy chaining the head-rails using these SAT ports to utilize a signal IR receiver in the head-rail. I'm considering making my own if they don't already exist commercially but I don't know if it's doable to control 3 head-rails with one IR receiver. Has anyone looked into this?


Thanks!


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## Deane Johnson

I doubt there is any way to daisy chain the satellite eye.


Thinking out loud on your issue, I wonder about using a Xantech Dinky Link and a Xantech power block with 3 emitter outputs. Then just paste an emitter over each head rail eye.


I don't know what this would do for reliability in your installation. It's sort of trial and error. The quality of the "learned" IR signal is pretty important.


I'm using emitters over the satellite eyes on mine. I had lots of missed commands over a number of years until I came up with my present set up which has been running for about 2 weeks now with 100% reliability. That's a first in many years of trying different things.


Deane


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## humbug2

clsimon: I have 3 Duettes on a bay window. Each has its own address. They are chained on a H-D transformer. I use a wireless wall switch. Selecting "all" misses one of the three about 20% of the time. Selecting and controlling an individual shade requires a redundant button push about 20-30% of the time. It is not a range issue. Nor is it particular to one of the three.


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## Deane Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *humbug2* /forum/post/21025656
> 
> 
> clsimon: I have 3 Duettes on a bay window. Each has its own address. They are chained on a H-D transformer. I use a wireless wall switch. Selecting "all" misses one of the three about 20% of the time. Selecting and controlling an individual shade requires a redundant button push about 20-30% of the time. It is not a range issue. Nor is it particular to one of the three.



Are you using PowerRise 1.0 or PowerRise 2.0? There is a big difference in what can be done. If you have 3 Duettes with different addresses, I suspect you're using RF and PowerRise 2.0.


----------



## humbug2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21025710
> 
> 
> ...I suspect you're using RF and PowerRise 2.0.



correct.


----------



## DVDCI

Here is the answer to all of your problems.

http://www.lutron.com/Products/Shadi...ar-Shades.aspx 


These are very competitively priced! And yes they are from Lutron!

Virtually silent! They can be battery operated up to 3 years is what they are claiming or hardwired for power. They use the Lutron QS RF control so you know you will have reliable operation of the shades. They can also be integrated into Lutron RadioRA2 or Homeworks QS systems as well or operate as a stand alone system.


Almost sounds like an ad I know but it seems to be a great product from what I have personally seen so far.


----------



## SaulP

Boy am I glad I stumbled on this thread. Here's my situation. I just finished a renovation and unfortunately did not think about shades. I do have a full RadioRa 2 lighting system that will be integrated into my HAI OmniPro controller.


I've got 4 windows (actually 3 and a door) in my MBR that I'd like motorized and controlled by my Home Austomation system. I would very, very much prefer battery powered so I don't have to tear into my walls again. I really only care about up/down.


The new Lutron Sivoia QS Wireless battery powered cellular shades are an obvious choice. HOWEVER, the wife much prefers Roman Shades. She's already picked out some Hunter Douglas shades that would presumably work with HD's PowerRise system.


So, my first question is this: Am I correct that the new Lutron battery powered Sivoia system is only for cellular shades? (I know Lutron has Roman Shades in the Sivoia QS Wireless line-up but I think they are AC powered.)


Second question. If I go with HD, and use the little RF adpater, could I plug that into a Lutron RadioRa 2 appliance module (e.g. the RR-15APA http://resi.lutron.com/LinkClick.asp...d=584&mid=1450 ) and control it that way?


Thanks!


----------



## DonsDraperyInc

I have just completed a job where I sold the Radio Ra2 product and gave control of Hunter Douglas products and they work great. Three things you should know. The first and most important is that the appliance module gives off a low level of power while in the off position, therefore the rf adapter does not work when plugged into it. I used a plug in dimmer and then in programming put it as non-dimming and it worked beautifully. Second the rf adapter has a very small range, so hopefully all these shades are in the same room. Lastly the rf adapter only allows for one channel/group of control so if you want individual control then you need individual units for each. With that being said this is probably your best solution as the only motor offered by Lutron at this time that is battery is the cellular shades.


----------



## SaulP

Thanks, Don. I actually have an extra dimmer module (one of the table top ones) that I'm not using. I guess I can use that. Fortunately, I don't need individual control and all of the shades are in the same room (and right next to each other).


----------



## Lic265




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jasonn B* /forum/post/21002798
> 
> 
> I was able to find more info here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.automatedshadeinc.com/fil...40111_0511.pdf
> 
> 
> These are too expensive at $137 each. I would need multiple ones for different shades
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming I'd need three, if I have a shade in the family room I want to operate independently, one in the bedroom, and one in my office, correct? I'm assuming you can have multiple of these adapters and it won't confuse the other shades?



Would this setup work with the Harmony 1100 as well as the 890?


----------



## AV_Integrated

Just to let others know, I have been using Hunter Douglas PowerRise shades in my home, and my LAST home for about 9 years now. Both places used the battery powered units.


I'm not in love with the IR receiving capabilities of the PowerRise - Could be 1st generation issues or something, but the remote is not a clean hit all the time. I've also buried IR emitters inside the rail to control the blinds remotely via a Crestron control system. They seem to be hit or miss. About 1 in 2 times it misses. For the automated up/down in the morning and evening it's not a big deal, but when I want to put them up at a different time it can be a pain.


I'm going to be doing a home with about 11 of these shades and will have them all hard wired for power and I am thinking I may solder a jumper to their control board to allow relay up/down capabilities from the control system. That would be more than reliable enough and I'll report back how well that does (or doesn't) go.


----------



## Deane Johnson

AV Integrated, I assume the PowerRise in your home are Version 1.0.


I've fought those for 10 years, both with the Hunter remote and with an Ocelot feeding emitters stuck over the head rail eye.


I've had good luck with a Philips Pronto TSU-2000 running them with a lot of reliability. With it's 4 emitter output, it kicks a heck of a wallop. I think the Hunter remote is pretty wimpy.


Recently, when I upgraded to Elve software and a Global Cache 100-6 to handle the IR, my reliability went to about 100%. In the past few months I've had 1 failure with one shade.


I use the proper interface cords from the Global Cache to a powered Xantech block, so the emitters are getting hit with 12v. That seems to be a deciding factor.


Don't know if this helps anything, but thought I'd let you know what I had finally achieved with the old PowerRise.


----------



## AV_Integrated

Thanks - I'm using a Crestron system, but I'm sharing the IR emitter output with other devices, so I may throw in another IR card into the chassis and put each emitter on a dedicated output. It hasn't been much of a hassle for us and is our own home system. If I can figure out a relay trigger control then I'll just end up going that route.


----------



## Deane Johnson

AV Integrated, I'm thinking it's very unlikely you will be successful adapting any sort of relay to control the movement of the PowerRise 1.0. That's based on a lot of experimenting by several folks on this forum, my own experimenting, and my communications with technical guys at the factory.


Electronic Solutions makes a PowerRise 1.0 interface but I'm not sure if it can be controlled by Crestron. I know that ESI does make some stuff that has the Crestron name on it's remotely possible they interface with this. The ESI people are very helpful to work with http://www.elec-solutions.com/images..._reference.pdf 


If you get to dealing with the new PowerRise 2.0 (Platinum), that's a whole new world. There is a relay actuated interface for these, as well a small module that can be controlled with Z-Wave, UPB, X-10, a wall switch, etc. I had the relay interface, but didn't like it and changed to the small module which I control with Z-Wave. That is one of the best lash-ups I've had yet.


----------



## focusontheworld




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21005207
> 
> 
> Updating from 1.0 to 2.0 is a little bit expensive.



Deane: Can you give me an idea of what the current update cost is if you know? Also can they be updated in the field? Thanks. Tom.


----------



## Deane Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *focusontheworld* /forum/post/21285103
> 
> 
> Deane: Can you give me an idea of what the current update cost is if you know? Also can they be updated in the field? Thanks. Tom.



It varies with the width and what the dealer marks it up.


Figure on $200, maybe $250 per shade.


It is not field upgradeable. It has to go into the factory. The only thing salvaged from your old blind is the fabric and the bottom rail. PowerRise 2.0 will have a new head rail and new strings.


These costs will be about the same whether you're adding PowerRise 2.0 to an existing manual blind, or converting an older PowerRise 1.0 to PowerRise 2.0.


PowerRise 2.0 and Platinum Technology are one and the same.


I could be a tad on the low side in my estimate.


----------



## focusontheworld




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21285874
> 
> 
> It varies with the width and what the dealer marks it up.
> 
> 
> Figure on $200, maybe $250 per shade.
> 
> 
> It is not field upgradeable. It has to go into the factory. The only thing salvaged from your old blind is the fabric and the bottom rail. PowerRise 2.0 will have a new head rail and new strings.
> 
> 
> These costs will be about the same whether you're adding PowerRise 2.0 to an existing manual blind, or converting an older PowerRise 1.0 to PowerRise 2.0.
> 
> 
> PowerRise 2.0 and Platinum Technology are one and the same.
> 
> 
> I could be a tad on the low side in my estimate.



Thanks for the details Deane.


What I'm trying to do is this. I have 15 battery-operated PowerRise units installed in 2005. They are currently individually operated by the old style remote and satellite eyes. I would like to tie them into the Crestron system for automated operation. I have read your posts which have been very helpful. What I can't figure out is if the pieces are there now from HD to accomplish this. It seems to make sense to replace all 15 satellite eyes with the new RF model. The new eye appears to support the old style motor and electronics. Then I would install a wireless wall switch which would give us RF control of the shades with the new model remote. The eyes could be put up in the valences out of sight because they are RF. I can't seem to take it from there to the connection to Crestron. I don't want to run any wires to the shades so installing an IR emitter at each location is a not an option. I've looked at the HD RF plug-in adapter but it doesn't seem to be oriented to systems like Crestron although we could make it work. I looked at your Global Cache and Elve solution and that's sweet but again not a fit for the Crestron system. Am I missing something here or are the pieces still not available from HD to do Crestron control of battery-operated PowerRise with no wires to the shades?


Also, would you know the difference between HD 2980000208 IR/RF Receiver

and IR/RF Satellite Eye 2980000203 20" Cable? Since they are RF can't the eye be put up inside the valence with no direct line of sight which seems to be the same as the circuit board that goes inside the motor rail.


Thanks for your help and advice. Tom.


----------



## Deane Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *focusontheworld* /forum/post/21286369
> 
> 
> Thanks for the details Deane.
> 
> 
> What I'm trying to do is this. I have 15 battery-operated PowerRise units installed in 2005. They are currently individually operated by the old style remote and satellite eyes. I would like to tie them into the Crestron system for automated operation. I have read your posts which have been very helpful. What I can't figure out is if the pieces are there now from HD to accomplish this. It seems to make sense to replace all 15 satellite eyes with the new RF model. The new eye appears to support the old style motor and electronics. Then I would install a wireless wall switch which would give us RF control of the shades with the new model remote. The eyes could be put up in the valences out of sight because they are RF. I can't seem to take it from there to the connection to Crestron. I don't want to run any wires to the shades so installing an IR emitter at each location is a not an option. I've looked at the HD RF plug-in adapter but it doesn't seem to be oriented to systems like Crestron although we could make it work. I looked at your Global Cache and Elve solution and that's sweet but again not a fit for the Crestron system. Am I missing something here or are the pieces still not available from HD to do Crestron control of battery-operated PowerRise with no wires to the shades?
> 
> 
> Also, would you know the difference between HD 2980000208 IR/RF Receiver
> 
> and IR/RF Satellite Eye 2980000203 20" Cable? Since they are RF can't the eye be put up inside the valence with no direct line of sight which seems to be the same as the circuit board that goes inside the motor rail.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help and advice. Tom.



I'm going to shoot your question as to the difference on the above items to a couple of the tech guys at Hunter for an answer. Probably won't get it back until at least tomorrow. There is a certain breaking point on age of the product that changes what will work with what. I have the large Hunter Douglas manual in front of me, but it is very lacking in the retro information and I can't remember the details. Hunter has so many variations I have to re-educate myself on every issue.


So far as controlling with Crestron and not using IR, I would think your only option is the RF. There must be some way with Crestron to control AC on/off to a socket. That's all it takes for the Platinum RF adapter to work.


So far as mounting the stuff under a valance, I have mine hidden and completely enclosed by wood except where the shade pops out of the bottom. Works good. My throw distance from the RF adapter to the shade is only about 8 feet so I have plenty of signal. But, I use the hand sender from about 20 feet with it with no difficulty.


Deane


----------



## focusontheworld




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21286657
> 
> 
> I'm going to shoot your question as to the difference on the above items to a couple of the tech guys at Hunter for an answer. Probably won't get it back until at least tomorrow. There is a certain breaking point on age of the product that changes what will work with what. I have the large Hunter Douglas manual in front of me, but it is very lacking in the retro information and I can't remember the details. Hunter has so many variations I have to re-educate myself on every issue.
> 
> 
> So far as controlling with Crestron and not using IR, I would think your only option is the RF. There must be some way with Crestron to control AC on/off to a socket. That's all it takes for the Platinum RF adapter to work.
> 
> 
> So far as mounting the stuff under a valance, I have mine hidden and completely enclosed by wood except where the shade pops out of the bottom. Works good. My throw distance from the RF adapter to the shade is only about 8 feet so I have plenty of signal. But, I use the hand sender from about 20 feet with it with no difficulty.
> 
> 
> Deane



Deane - You're a star. Thanks very much.


The confusion I have with the new satellite eye is that it says it is RF and IR. Is that an either or situation? If both are used, doesn't that mean line of sight is needed?


Thanks. Tom.


----------



## Deane Johnson

Tom:


Here's an answer I got from the guy in charge of tech stuff at one of the Hunter fabrication units. This will probably generate additional questions that we will need to follow up on.


Deane


It sounds like you are tracking with all the right ideas. If he is not able to run additional wiring, then it sounds like the RF adapter is his best bet, along with the satellite eyes to update these shades to platinum. I have worked with some other dealers trying to order satellite eyes for a similiar age shade. These eyes are becoming hard to come by. We do not have any here although I believe HD still has some. It is important to use the correct pcn # when ordering.

2980000208 is the receiver eye that does install inside the cover rail. However it is not compatible with the hole punch of a shade from 2005


I have heard of some installers who remove the circuit board from the housing of the satellite eye and put it in the headrail, but if he has top treatments, it would be better to leave them in the housing and install behind treatments.


EDIT: Tom, it appears there could be an issue getting 15 satellite eyes from Hunter.


I should also clarify that I am not using a satellite eye, but rather a full fledged Platinum 2.0 shade. I should think though, that the satellite eye should be a least as good. Mine antennae is located within the head rail, not the best for pick up.


It is my belief you want one of the following PCN numbers:


2980000203 20" IR/RF Platinum Technology Satellite Eye, 4-pin

2980000225 48" IR/RF Platinum Technology Satellite Eye, 4-pin

2980000226 96" IR/RF Platinum Technology Satellite Eye, 4-pin


----------



## Deane Johnson

Tom:


Here is a further update on Hunter recommendations. Please study it carefully. Bottom line is that you probably shouldn't try to use the RF adapter with the satellite eyes. It appears that in order to have RF control of the shades, you should have them fully converted as we first discussed.


Deane

Text of new message:


"After looking at the spec's for the RF adaptor, they do reccomend to not use these with any of the Platinum "1.0" versions... which would be these satellite eyes. All of the firmware updates to 2.0 products and accessories might make the RF adaptor somewhat incompatible at best with 1.0. We could try and test one here on a 1.0 shade to see what kind of response we get from the RF adaptor. I would just hate to try and go through all this and run into intermittent operation issues.


Additionally, we are talking about trying to retrofit a 7 year old shade that only has a 5 year warranty. Again, would hate to go through all this only to see the shade motors/components begin to fail as their life cycle ends. It can lead to some frustrations.


It would be possible to have these shades completely upgraded to the 2.0 system. Obviosuly more of a cost, but a much more reliable system and would be fully compatible with RF adaptor and/or the connection interface."


----------



## focusontheworld




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson* /forum/post/21287846
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> Here is a further update on Hunter recommendations. Please study it carefully. Bottom line is that you probably shouldn't try to use the RF adapter with the satellite eyes. It appears that in order to have RF control of the shades, you should have them fully converted as we first discussed.
> 
> 
> Deane
> 
> Text of new message:
> 
> 
> "After looking at the spec's for the RF adaptor, they do reccomend to not use these with any of the Platinum "1.0" versions... which would be these satellite eyes. All of the firmware updates to 2.0 products and accessories might make the RF adaptor somewhat incompatible at best with 1.0. We could try and test one here on a 1.0 shade to see what kind of response we get from the RF adaptor. I would just hate to try and go through all this and run into intermittent operation issues.
> 
> 
> Additionally, we are talking about trying to retrofit a 7 year old shade that only has a 5 year warranty. Again, would hate to go through all this only to see the shade motors/components begin to fail as their life cycle ends. It can lead to some frustrations.
> 
> 
> It would be possible to have these shades completely upgraded to the 2.0 system. Obviosuly more of a cost, but a much more reliable system and would be fully compatible with RF adaptor and/or the connection interface."



I think that is a real good point Deane. I would want to think there is a tech department at HD that would know the answer to that question. It's a matter of having that access to the right people.


On the life cycle comment, I can't agree with the statement that was made in the quote. It's like saying when your car 1 year warranty expires the car is at the end of it's life cycle. I would not want to think that because the warranty has expired that the units are at the end of their life cycle.


The reason why the upgrade is a non-starter is the hassle, cost and time it would take to return 10k worth of shades to the factory to upgrade them to a level that still needs to be kludged to make them work with a mainstream automation system like Crestron. If we remove the shades for an upgrade, it will likely be to replace them altogether with a product that is 21st century like Lutron shades that cleaning interface with the likes of Crestron and AMX as well as not having limitations like 4 channels for 15 shades. We're trying to avoid that but maybe we're just putting off the inevitable. Tom.


----------



## focusontheworld

Well Deane, if we can trust tech support at HD, you were spot on because here's what they said:


"With upgrading your Duette PowerRise from 2004 to the new RF eye 1.0 PowerRise system, it will not work with the RF adapter or wireless RF Wall Switch. The RF adapter and Wireless RF Wall switch is for the newest 2.0 PowerRise systems."


----------



## Deane Johnson

Glad you talked direct with HD. This doesn't leave you with a lot of great options. I should think your limited wiring availability almost sends you into the arena of upconverting your existing shades to PowerRise 2.0.


----------



## focusontheworld

Deane, Do you have a direct email address? Thanks. Tom.


----------



## Deane Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *focusontheworld* /forum/post/21292807
> 
> 
> Deane, Do you have a direct email address? Thanks. Tom.


 [email protected]


----------



## Deane Johnson

Tom:


I answered your email, but it bounced back. Email me some new instructions for getting Email back to you.


Deane


----------



## brianlee101




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc* /forum/post/20824052
> 
> 
> In regards to automating a Powerise 2.0 shade I have a simple solution that can be controlled with serial, cc, and IR that is plug and play. It also has an optional hardware piece that allows for iphone control using a free app with a simple gui interface I've designed. Let me know if anyone is interested.



I am very interested in this solution. We are having 8 HD Pirouette shades installed in two weeks and want to connect them to my HAI system. I had planned on hacking into the remote but this option sounds easier. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## KJGGP

I bought 5 Duette Power Rise shades in 1/2000. One now is not working and Hunter Douglas says it most likely needs a new motor. I will send it to them. But IF it DOES need a new motor THEY WON'T HAVE ONE. It's an older product (11 years? I feel ancient) and they have switched to a new system. They will replace the head rail which will then not match the other head rails next to it. The remote timer on the wall will not work with the equipment in the new head rail and I will have to buy a new remote timer that will be mounted alongside the old one and will only control the new shade. The timing on these two timers is not likely to remain in sync so the shade with the new head rail will go up and down at somewhat different times than the rest of the shades in the room. For this "fix" I will pay $300. Does anyone know where I can find HD motors (and/or other parts) for a Duette Power Rise shade purchased in 2000?


----------



## Rob Faucett




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc* /forum/post/20824052
> 
> 
> Stephanie I am a Hunter Douglas Gallery Dealer in Southern California and am a certified motorization specialist. I have a stock of old style remotes and timers do you have a picture of the old one that is broken, I could ship you a replacement if I have one in stock.
> 
> 
> In regards to automating a Powerise 2.0 shade I have a simple solution that can be controlled with serial, cc, and IR that is plug and play. It also has an optional hardware piece that allows for iphone control using a free app with a simple gui interface I've designed. Let me know if anyone is interested.



Does this imply that using your solution I could use my Universal Remote? I am very interested!!


Thanks

Rob


----------



## ginar

Hi !

Just wondering if you are going to replace your Spring Autovue Blinds if I could buy your remote?

I know this might sound crazy but we purchased a house and these were the type of blinds that were installed in our 2-story upper family room windows, we are doing a remodel project now and for some reason the blinds still work but Graber and Springs they do not make Autovue blinds that we have anymore therefore the remote is not made ....called blinds,parts and repairs, they used to have it but are sold out and no way of restocking because of course it is discontinued...really did not have new blinds in the remodel project if I could find a universal remote I do have the codes to make it work (hopefully) but if you are replacing your blinds and would sell the remote ....please let me know Thanks


----------



## gutsy4

I have a Powerrise remote that is about 13 years old. It has died on me. Would love to buy one from you, if you happen to have!
Powerrise Remote 1673k .jpg file Susan G.


----------



## Jasonn B

Regarding the RF adapter and my 2.0 shades.


I think it will work with an X10 ac wall outlet. I control a bunch of stuff in my house with x10 from my iphone with the x10 commander app. Lights, fireplace, etc. All you need is an x10 wall outlet and you can turn it on/off from your phone, from anywhere. This should work with the RF adapter plugged into the X10 replacement wall outlet, right? Essentially it would be doing the same as in this video below, but you can do it from your phone!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M62Q5JfkKxU


----------



## DonsDraperyInc

The new 2.1 motors with the platinum bridge kit work amazing and the app is very cool with room and scene controls. However for 2.0 shades the RF Adapter/X10 module does work I did it on a job where the homeowner uses a lot of x10. Be advised we had to use a plug in filter and then the module to keep from inadvertent commands. The only limitation of the RF adapter is that it only works with products that open and close (tilting products will not work) and only gives you all open and all close as there is no way to send more than one open and one close command.


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/60#post_23444941
> 
> 
> The new 2.1 motors with the platinum bridge kit work amazing and the app is very cool with room and scene controls. However for 2.0 shades the RF Adapter/X10 module does work I did it on a job where the homeowner uses a lot of x10. Be advised we had to use a plug in filter and then the module to keep from inadvertent commands. The only limitation of the RF adapter is that it only works with products that open and close (tilting products will not work) and only gives you all open and all close as there is no way to send more than one open and one close command.



Gotcha. So you mean it will either open my shades all the way, or close all the way, no middle stopping. That's fine for me.


I guess the next question is, are any of the 2.1 components interchangeable with the older 2.0 and 1.0 systems?


Thanks!!!


----------



## Tnedator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonsDraperyInc*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/60#post_23444941
> 
> 
> The new 2.1 motors with the platinum bridge kit work amazing and the app is very cool with room and scene controls. However for 2.0 shades the RF Adapter/X10 module does work I did it on a job where the homeowner uses a lot of x10. Be advised we had to use a plug in filter and then the module to keep from inadvertent commands. The only limitation of the RF adapter is that it only works with products that open and close (tilting products will not work) and only gives you all open and all close as there is no way to send more than one open and one close command.



I have a question about the 2.1 motors. I know the Platinum app is supposed to be pretty powerful, but what about controlling tilting blinds (such as Silhouette/Nantucket) with Zwave, Lutron or other home automation software?


I didn't know if things like Zwave/Homeseer or similar setups would be able to tilt the blinds if you had the 2.1/Platinum motors, or if you could only do that with the Hunter Douglas software.


----------



## DonsDraperyInc

The current app allows for tilt, open/close, and a drag "bar" that allows you to take the shade where you would like. That is with the Hunter Douglas Bridge and App. The only current way to control them with an automation system is the connection interface which requires wiring and controls the shades via contact closure. I do have a device that can via RS32 activate those contacts and have used this setup before (when wires are in place). I know Hunter Douglas has a new software version for current bridges coming that will allow for remote access (the current app requires you be connected to the home wifi) and a different piece of hardware that will only be sold by Certified Motorization Specialists (HD has a fairly strict program to approve certain dealers) and will allow RS32 communications and will have drivers for all of he big automation platforms. This will be huge when it launches.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Don, any update on the status of the RS-232 solution for 2.1 Powerise Systems?? I have the bridge kit and will be using the iPad app at times which is great, but I also need RS-232 control for a greater automation effort with Universal Remote based system that speaks RS-232. Thanks for your help.


-Brian


----------



## DonsDraperyInc

The launch of the hardware that enables RS-232 has been delayed. I know it's still coming the release has just been pushed back.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Interesting, thanks for the info. In the meantime, if I could just get to someone at HD that knows why my Bridge is not working, just flashing red, then I'd be set for at least a little while. Customer support over there is useless, because they lack a basic understanding of networking. I need to know exactly what protocols this box is trying to send on my local LAN. I am a 20 year veteran of IT, and I need to know so I can make the proper adjustments to my network. I assume it is trying to pull an IP via DHCP, like most devices of this kind, but even that is unclear. I have DHCP server on my network, and other devices pull an IP just fine, but this one is not. Ideally, I would just get access to it long enough via any means possible to change its IP to a static IP, that is what I prefer, but again, DHCP should be working just fine (even just verified it does with other devices), but for some reason mine is just flashing red constantly. I've plugged it into switches, I've tried directly into my Apple Airport Extreme router, etc. and still does not turn green. Anyone have any clue what IP address this thing has by default, and if there are any command line utilities that I can use via serial connection or something? I'm stuck at the moment, and they are preventing me from talking to any actual tech savvy folks at HD, playing customer defense right now.


Thanks again Don, keep us updated on the RS-232 solution, it will make all of this go away in a heartbeat! Uggghhh.


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deane Johnson*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here#post_20545668
> 
> 
> Jasonn:
> 
> 
> 
> Hunter has a new plug in RF device that causes the shade to go up when it senses AC and down when it senses the AC is removed. It's small and simply plugs into a wall socket.
> 
> 
> 
> It can operate a single shade or a group of shades.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using one plugged into a Z-Wave appliance module to raise and lower a PowerRise 2.0. You could use it with an X-10 appliance module just as well. Anything that adds or removes the AC to the device, even a wall switch operating a wall socket.
> 
> 
> 
> Deane



Deane Johnson, or Don's Drapery. Are you guys sure the RF adapter won't work with the pre 2010 shades? I guess you call it powerrise 1.0? I have some older shades, the ones made from 2007- 2009 that have the same looking remote as the 2.0 remote, except the 2.0 remote has some added text on it.


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jasonn B*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/60#post_23675346
> 
> 
> Deane Johnson, or Don's Drapery. Are you guys sure the RF adapter won't work with the pre 2010 shades? I guess you call it powerrise 1.0? I have some older shades, the ones made from 2007- 2009 that have the same looking remote as the 2.0 remote, except the 2.0 remote has some added text on it.



Ok, I've confirmed the RF adapter WILL WORK with the 2007-2009 shades! As long as it's the white/silver platinum remote that came with your shades, you can get them to automate! yea!


(I still don't know what to call the shades I have. I don't think it's called 1.0 because that was the original from like 10 years ago. It's the first shades that were introduced in 2007 with the newer looking remote)


----------



## Deane Johnson

Heads up to anyone needing the HD RF adapter. Don't delay. Hunter is discontinuing it. There are probably some still in the pipeline.


----------



## ls1115

Hi Deane


I happened to stumble into this thread. I have a Hunter Douglas Duette Manhattans C4 - 1/2" Single Cell motorized honeycomb shade bought in 2006. It looks similar to the one on the picture (mine is thinner), but it is over 10 feet long and works with the AC adapter on the other picture enclosed I use it to control light from an east-facing clerestory window, in a bedroom. Since the blind is close to the ceiling, it needs to be remotely controlled. Trouble is that it has been behaving erratically over the years. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I've replaced the AC adapter and remote, checked the wiring on the AC jack, change batteries often and so on. In fact, just before writing this, I went back to the room and tried the remote. It worked after 2 months of no- operation in a bedroom that gets sun-drenched at 5 a.m. (clerestory faces East)! Any thoughts? Because of the unit's length (126 inches) and my location (Puerto Rico), shipping it out for repairs is not an easy option. Will upgrading to Platinum be of any help?


Thanks


Luis


----------



## Deane Johnson

Luis:


My guess is the problem may be with the poor quality of the Hunter Douglas IR remote. It seems to me to be terrible when facing bright light from a window. I think it probably is weak on the output, and also has a fairly narrow beam angle. Mine used to work poorly, and when I learned it into my Pronto Remote, the shades worked about 98% of the time. I now use a Global Cache with emitters pasted over the PowerRise IR receiver eye and get about 99.5% consistency


Converting to Platinum 2.1 and using the RF control should bring you to near 100% consistency based on my limited experience..


The only way I know of that you can get the conversion done is through your local dealer who has to get a return authorization and then ship them to Hunter for conversion.


If you convert, you will not be able to learn the IR into a universal remote. The Platinum 2.1 uses the RF to wake the shade up and then transmit the IR.


Deane


----------



## ls1115

Thanks Deane!


I'll try the learning remote options you mention. By the way, the shade is working as of today!

Any improvements that may help avoid shipping this large item are very welcome!


Luis


----------



## z2020


I'm a homeowner automating my home with Elan g!  I have Hunter Douglas Platinum shades which I control with my iPad but would like them to interface with Elan.  It has not been easy to get the two (companies) to talk.  My automation man who installed the Elan uses Lutron shades and suggests I get the info from HD.  Service at HD has been difficult to contact.  It sounds as if I can interface the Hunter Douglas Platinum Bridge to the Elan system with an RS232 connection.  The Hunter Douglas shades are IR controlled with the Apple App.  Any thoughts and any part numbers.  Thanks.


----------



## az1324

If you have the new enhanced Platinum Gateway Home Automation Interface then yes you can integrate them with RS-232 or IR (and possibly IP). But I believe it just became available this fall.


----------



## joealbracht

The Platinum Gateway was announced this September. It appears to be an expanded version of the prior Platinum Bridge Kit (same form factor). It adds 3rd party access to control Platinum 2.1 battery operated shades. Home automation systems can send any/all of IR/IP/RS232 commands to the Gateway which than uses RF to operate the shades. I am waiting on one but am told HD has not yet shipped the new Gateways. My latest update is to hope for shipment this coming week.


ETA: It appears that only predefined scenes can be invoked via the Gateway, nothing adhoc.


----------



## AV_Integrated

Any idea if that controller will work with the PowerRise shades which are not 2.1 but are still RF controlled?


I have the mini-cellular shades, battery operated, with up/down commands, and up to four groupings of shades that I would like to control... however. I can do contact closure, IR, RS-232, Ethernet, etc., but I can't get a wire to the shade itself. I can attic store the controller, or put it in a closet and get a wire to it.


I've bought a second remote control, that I've disassembled and wired up for control, but would prefer a cleaner solution... A much cleaner solution.


----------



## z2020

I am using the platinum app (not Gateway) and love the control with all the scheduling options. I hope to interface with ElanG! home automation using the Platinum Gateway. What system are you connecting HD to? Should I be able to run the same schedules with the automation connection? Please post when you get your Gateway up and running. This has been difficult to track down I guess because it is so new. Thanks.


----------



## DonsDraperyInc

The Gateway has been released and is shipping out. It looks just like the "bridge" you are using to control your shades with the app. Only Hunter Douglas "Certified Motorization Specialists" can order the part. They work just like the bridge when you use your ipad or iphone. However home automation systems can actuate the scenes you create using ip, serial (rs232), or IR. If needed I would be happy to provide one for you. You can PM me for a price quote they are surprisingly affordable.


----------



## Club Chapin

I just received a Platinum Gateway. I pretty cool product. Unfortunately, my Platinum Gateway did not include the User Guide, just the Quick Start Guide. The Quickstart lists the 232 commands but not the IP commands. It refers to the User Guide for the IP information.


Does someone have this info they can point me to? Maybe a pdf of the User Guide would be available somewhere? I've searched and connot find it, just the quick start guide, which I already have.


Ultimately, I am looking for the IP command set.


Thanks, Pete


----------



## joealbracht

IP and RS232 commands are the same.


As of a few months ago, the User Guide did not exist.


The Gateway does work. However, the Platinum App (the interface) used to define the scenes is quirky. I spent some time testing how the App & Gateway work (documentation is VERY limited and incomplete), wrote down all the scenes I needed, reset the Gateway and entered all the scenes into the Platinum App. If you need to use RF extenders, properly locating them is key & may take experimentation.


All the data lives on the Gateway so you can any number of iPhones/iPads/etc. to do the updates. Unfortunately, no way to backup the Gateway.


----------



## Club Chapin

Thanks. I got this to work. I did have some correspondence with HD. Like you mentioned, the User Guide does not exist. They did finally send me an IP PDF that, as you indicate, is the same as the 232. It does indicate a different end of string character, but both the 232 and TCP end of strings work.


I had tried this before with no luck, using a dos telenet connection. I had tried the 232 commands prior, but they didn't work. I could see it acknowledging commands from the ipad, but it wouldn't respond to my sent commands. Today, after receiving the sheet, and before looking here and seeing your response, I connected with putty and was able to control these TCP.


Now to figure out how to get my control system to send these commands.


I've attached the pdfs for setting static IP and TCP control.


Pete

PlatinumGateway_IP.pdf 302k .pdf file

SettingStaticIPAddressGateway.pdf 39k .pdf file


----------



## Club Chapin

Does anyone know if the Platinum Gateway and the wired connection interface (PCN 4254220005) can be used simultaneously? I'd like to add the simple wired Platinum Switch (PCN2951710000) to my shades for local control.


Where I bought my shades said they cannot, but I am not convinced they really know. They didn't have a clue about the Platinum Gateway and how to control it other than with the iOS app.


Thanks, Pete


----------



## az1324

Maybe, but seems like a lot of trouble to avoid using the wireless wall switch just because it has some extra buttons.


----------



## Club Chapin

Yes and no. At the same time it adds a contact closure interface (I do not need) and hardwires the 18v (eliminating batts) for the shades.


And, both functionally and visually, it is a lot cleaner and simple for everyone, including guests, to operate.


I'm the guy that gets annoyed that I cannot delete Sirius, which I don't subscribe to, from my car's interface.


I've got no need for extra buttons.


----------



## denver24312




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Club Chapin*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/90#post_24636964
> 
> 
> Thanks. I got this to work. I did have some correspondence with HD. Like you mentioned, the User Guide does not exist. They did finally send me an IP PDF that, as you indicate, is the same as the 232. It does indicate a different end of string character, but both the 232 and TCP end of strings work.
> 
> 
> I had tried this before with no luck, using a dos telenet connection. I had tried the 232 commands prior, but they didn't work. I could see it acknowledging commands from the ipad, but it wouldn't respond to my sent commands. Today, after receiving the sheet, and before looking here and seeing your response, I connected with putty and was able to control these TCP.
> 
> 
> Now to figure out how to get my control system to send these commands.
> 
> 
> I've attached the pdfs for setting static IP and TCP control.
> 
> 
> Pete
> 
> PlatinumGateway_IP.pdf 302k .pdf file
> 
> SettingStaticIPAddressGateway.pdf 39k .pdf file


 

Have you found a way to list any of the other commands available?


----------



## z2020


See next posting.  Sorry, could not figure out how to correct entry then delete it.


----------



## z2020


I have been using the HD Platinum GATEWAY with the iPad - iPhone APP.  I replaced the HD Bridge with the Gateway which works the same as the Bridge but has an RS232 connection.  I love it.  It works great.  BUT ... we are controlling our home with Elan g! and our Elan guy does not know of an available software interface. Does anyone know the status of Elan g! talking with the HD Platinum Gateway or have a way for me to get the two talking?  I would like to have the Elan system run the HD Gateway.  Thanks.


----------



## joealbracht

The HD Gateway can be controlled by sending commands to the Gateway via RS232, IP and/or IR. I know nothing about Elan but their literature says their controllers have (at least) RS232 and IR outputs. Why can't the Elan send commands to the HD Gateway?


----------



## Club Chapin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *denver24312*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/90#post_24719663
> 
> 
> Have you found a way to list any of the other commands available?



I'm not aware of the existance of other commands. They may exist, but I have no idea what they are or how to decode them.


----------



## Club Chapin

My gateway closes the shades about 90 mins before sunset when set to close at sunset. HD has had me try a bunch of things, but nothing resolves it.


I see that there is a "reset" button, but it does not seem to reset the gateway. Does anyone know how to reset it? I've held for 10+ second, and have rebooted while holding it and in both cases, the settings are still in the thing. I don't see any info on any of the documentation about the gateway.


Also, what does the middle button do? The outside one is for ID'ng and testing the repeaters, correct?


Thanks, Pete


----------



## Club Chapin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Club Chapin*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/90#post_24742268
> 
> 
> I see that there is a "reset" button, but it does not seem to reset the gateway. Does anyone know how to reset it? I've held for 10+ second, and have rebooted while holding it and in both cases, the settings are still in the thing. I don't see any info on any of the documentation about the gateway.



Figured this out. Found a booklet titled GatewayKitBooklet and it says the following:

"Press the P button on the back of the Platinum Gateway. The light on each Platinum Repeater should turn GREEN.


Other controls on the back of the Gateway include the RESET button, which reboots the Gateway; and the X button, which erases all your data from the Gateway when pressed for 6 seconds."


It seems that the "X" button is behaving as I would expect the "RESET" button to behave.


At anyrate, the "X" button nuked my settings. Maybe sunset will work correctly now for me.


Pete


----------



## joealbracht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Club Chapin*  /t/909721/any-powerrise-hunter-douglas-motorized-shade-experince-here/90#post_24742268
> 
> 
> My gateway closes the shades about 90 mins before sunset when set to close at sunset. HD has had me try a bunch of things, but nothing resolves it.



Sunrise & sunset times depend on longitude and latitude. I see the Platinum App does make use of the Apple device's location services and, I assume, tells the gateway. Make sure you have enabled location services on your Apple device and that the Platinum App is using it. Other than that, no ideas.


----------



## joealbracht

I have frequent problems with DHCP not working when the HD Gateway reboots so I want to move to using a static IP address which it outside of the router's DHCP range. I can send the RS232 commands you provided to change the HD Gateway to a static IP address & IP is fine until the gateway reboots for any reason. When the gateway reboots, it goes back to using DHCP and I have to resend the static IP commands to ensure IP works. I wouldn't care but the controller that sends the serial commands doesn't know when the gateway reboots and needs to receive the commands again to ensure the gateway's IP is in a working status.


questions:

1. Does your gateway ever have problems with DHCP?

2. Does your gateway stay in static IP mode across reboots?


----------



## tannewt

I haven't noticed any dhcp issue but my gateway doesn't get restarted often. You can usually set your dhcp server to always give it the same address if you want it to always be at the same IP but can't get the gateway to keep its settings.


Has anyone tried intercepting the network communication from the app in order to learn more commands? There is also some discovery piece that is happening too so that the app can find the ip of the gateway. Any idea what that is?


----------



## tannewt

*Protocol basics*

I've reverse engineered a bit of the protocol and documented it here: https://github.com/tannewt/agohunterdouglas

It was pretty easy to do by snooping the IP traffic from the app to the gateway.


----------



## az1324

tannewt said:


> I've reverse engineered a bit of the protocol and documented it here: https://github.com/tannewt/agohunterdouglas
> 
> It was pretty easy to do by snooping the IP traffic from the app to the gateway.


Cool. Can you post an example communication log?


----------



## tannewt

Here is the log I was basing it off of. My comments start with #, input starts with $ and 1 $ is output.


Code:


$dat
1 $mbc100-100-100-100-
1 $firm01-2018-HD gateway 2.18
1 $MAC0x000000000000-
1 $LEDl064-
1 $upd00-
1 $reset
1 $set006-
1 $ctVt
# rooms

1 $cr00-01-0x0150-Living Room
1 $cr01-02-0x0D1A-Master Bedroom
1 $cr02-01-0xF5CA-Office
# shades

1 $cs00-00-06-Living Room 1
1 $cp00-04-000-
1 $cs01-01-04-Master Bedroom 1
1 $cp01-04-000-
1 $cs02-01-01-Master Bedroom 2
1 $cp02-04-000-
1 $cs03-02-05-Office 1
1 $cp03-04-189-
1 $cs04-01-05-Master Bedroom 3
1 $cp04-04-000-
1 $cs05-01-06-Master Bedroom 4
1 $cp05-04-000-
1 $cs06-00-08-Living Room 2
1 $cp06-04-000-
1 $cs07-00-03-Living Room 3
1 $cp07-04-000-
1 $cs08-00-01-Living Room 4
1 $cp08-04-000-
#scenes

1 $cm00-Wake Up
1 $cq00-01-01-
1 $cq00-02-01-
1 $cq00-04-01-
1 $cq00-05-01-
1 $cx00-01-18-053-01-
1 $cm01-All Open
1 $cq01-00-01-
1 $cq01-01-01-
1 $cq01-02-01-
1 $cq01-03-01-
1 $cq01-04-01-
1 $cq01-05-01-
1 $cq01-06-01-
1 $cq01-07-01-
1 $cq01-08-01-
1 $cx01-00-04-255-01-
1 $cx01-01-04-255-01-
1 $cx01-02-04-255-01-
1 $cm02-All Closed
1 $cq02-00-01-
1 $cq02-01-01-
1 $cq02-02-01-
1 $cq02-03-01-
1 $cq02-04-01-
1 $cq02-05-01-
1 $cq02-06-01-
1 $cq02-07-01-
1 $cq02-08-01-
1 $cx02-01-04-000-01-
1 $cx02-02-04-000-01-
1 $cx02-00-04-000-01-
1 $cm03-Living Room Open
1 $cq03-00-01-
1 $cq03-06-01-
1 $cq03-07-01-
1 $cq03-08-01-
1 $cx03-00-04-255-01-
1 $cm04-Office Open
1 $cq04-03-01-
1 $cx04-02-04-255-01-
1 $upd01-

# invoke a scene
$inm04-
1 $act01-00-
1 $cp03-04-255-
1 $act02-02-
1 $act00-00-

# dummy ping
$dmy
1 $ack

# setting a shades state
$pss03-04-125
1 $act01-00-
1 $cp03-04-125-
1 $done
# activates all shades to transition to the previously defined state

$rls
1 $act02-02-
1 $act00-00-

$pss03-04-191
1 $act01-00-
1 $cp03-04-191-
1 $done
$rls
1 $act02-02-
1 $act00-00-

000 is all the way down
255 is all the way up

# 18 is for the middle rail of tdbu shades
$pss04-18-192-                                                                                                                                                        
1 $act01-00-                                                                                                                                    
1 $cp04-18-192-
1 $done
$rls
1 $act02-01-
1 $act00-00-
$pss04-18-255-
1 $act01-00-
1 $cp04-18-255-
1 $done
$rls
1 $act02-01-
1 $act00-00-
$pss04-18-000-
1 $act01-00-
1 $cp04-18-000-
1 $done
$rls
1 $act02-01-
1 $act00-00-

000 is the top at the top
255 is the top all the way down


----------



## Club Chapin

tannewt said:


> I've reverse engineered a bit of the protocol and documented it here: https://github.com/tannewt/agohunterdouglas


This is awesome. Thanks for sharing and posting this.


----------



## Club Chapin

joealbracht said:


> Sunrise & sunset times depend on longitude and latitude. I see the Platinum App does make use of the Apple device's location services and, I assume, tells the gateway. Make sure you have enabled location services on your Apple device and that the Platinum App is using it. Other than that, no ideas.


That is how it is meant to function. Apparently there are some scenarios where this doesn't work. They have replaced one gateway with another, only to have it behave the same. They say they have found a bug that they are are fixing with a software update. Not sure how gateways are updated. Maybe automatically via the platinum app?


----------



## Club Chapin

joealbracht said:


> I have frequent problems with DHCP not working when the HD Gateway reboots so I want to move to using a static IP address which it outside of the router's DHCP range. I can send the RS232 commands you provided to change the HD Gateway to a static IP address & IP is fine until the gateway reboots for any reason. When the gateway reboots, it goes back to using DHCP and I have to resend the static IP commands to ensure IP works. I wouldn't care but the controller that sends the serial commands doesn't know when the gateway reboots and needs to receive the commands again to ensure the gateway's IP is in a working status.
> 
> questions:
> 1. Does your gateway ever have problems with DHCP?
> 2. Does your gateway stay in static IP mode across reboots?


I actually never set up the static IP. Instead, I have a DHCP reservation set up for that mac address on my router. This eliminates questions around static IP behavior with the gateway. I expect it should work and would expect a static address to survive a reboot.

Pete


----------



## jackass124

Club Chapin said:


> I actually never set up the static IP. Instead, I have a DHCP reservation set up for that mac address on my router. This eliminates questions around static IP behavior with the gateway. I expect it should work and would expect a static address to survive a reboot.
> 
> Pete


Hi! Been following this thread because I'm about to get some hd blinds...wondering if it's possible to get the motorizations installed without the platinum stuff and then use some third party home automation solution like Belkin wemo to control scheduling and stuff....


----------



## jeffgojeffgo

jackass124 said:


> Hi! Been following this thread because I'm about to get some hd blinds...wondering if it's possible to get the motorizations installed without the platinum stuff and then use some third party home automation solution like Belkin wemo to control scheduling and stuff....


Without the Platinum Gateway (the "Bridge Kit"), then you'd need to find a third-party system that understands what RF commands to send to the windows coverings to control them (open, close, up, down, tilt, slant, etc.). 

The Platinum Gateway is the magic piece that makes third-party control possible. If you're geeky enough, you can roll your own stuff to do that, otherwise you need to rely on a third party that's created a system to integrate the HD Platinum with WeMo, Insteon, etc. Control4 (control4 [dot] com) may be doing that, from what I see.

Being geeky enough, I've written a program that integrates my HD Platinum controlled shades with my CentraLite lights, Venstar thermostat, and Insteon system, giving me one web based interface to all of them. That was only possible because each system has its own "controller" or "hub" or other interface. Leaving out the Platinum Gateway would have made it impossible for me to integrate our window coverings into my system. I used the Platinum App only once, on the day the HD window coverings were installed, and did nothing but use it to define the shades that I have. After that, everything has been controlled by my custom system.

I'm not sure what the Platinum Bridge Kit costs from your HD dealer, but you can usually find it for sale on eBay for $200 - $250. But you need to be sure that the HD motorized window coverings you buy will be controllable by an RF remote, not and IR remote, and that they're compatible with the Platinum App. After what the HD motorization adds to the cost of your window coverings, the cost of the Bridge Kit directly from HD is really pretty minimal.


----------



## jackass124

Thanks for the info!...so if i am only motorizing 1 window...just make sure it has RF capability for the Platinum App if I want to upgrade it in the future? is that what youre saying? I'm motorizing a larger sized top down bottom up cellular Applause blind...I want to make sure if Apple's Homekit or Wemo is eventually compatible with Hunter Douglas, that I have it as an option....for scheduling the blind opening and closing.


----------



## trmoore2

*Motorized shade*

I just put in a Roman shade 9 feet wide by 6-7 tall. The motor is by Somfy and works great. Roman shade goes up/down instead of side to side. Total darkness with the side fabric panels.


----------



## jeffgojeffgo

jackass124 said:


> Thanks for the info!...so if i am only motorizing 1 window...just make sure it has RF capability for the Platinum App if I want to upgrade it in the future? is that what youre saying? I'm motorizing a larger sized top down bottom up cellular Applause blind...I want to make sure if Apple's Homekit or Wemo is eventually compatible with Hunter Douglas, that I have it as an option....for scheduling the blind opening and closing.


Yes, you definitely want a Platinum App compatible (RF) window covering. Two reasons: First, if it's not Platinum compatible now, it (almost certainly) won't be in the future. Second, the HD RF remote is _way_ better than the IR remote (speaking from experience). 

I think that in the future we'll see more and more third parties integrating HD window coverings into their systems, especially as more and more people have compatible window coverings. There's probably a little chicken-and-egg thing going on at this point (if not many people have the appropriate HD shades, why would a company bother spending the time and money integrating it into their system?).

If you have a Platinum App compatible shade (or shades) but no Bridge Kit, and later find a company that's integrating the HD system, you can always buy the Bridge Kit at that time.


----------



## jackass124

jeffgojeffgo said:


> Yes, you definitely want a Platinum App compatible (RF) window covering. Two reasons: First, if it's not Platinum compatible now, it (almost certainly) won't be in the future. Second, the HD RF remote is _way_ better than the IR remote (speaking from experience).
> 
> I think that in the future we'll see more and more third parties integrating HD window coverings into their systems, especially as more and more people have compatible window coverings. There's probably a little chicken-and-egg thing going on at this point (if not many people have the appropriate HD shades, why would a company bother spending the time and money integrating it into their system?).
> 
> If you have a Platinum App compatible shade (or shades) but no Bridge Kit, and later find a company that's integrating the HD system, you can always buy the Bridge Kit at that time.


My blinds installer says the remote that comes with the motorization is BOTH RF and IR...is that true? or are there really different kinds of remotes? he read me documentation stating that...and he says it's totally upgradeable in the future if i want to add the bridge kit at a later dat


----------



## jeffgojeffgo

jackass124 said:


> My blinds installer says the remote that comes with the motorization is BOTH RF and IR...is that true? or are there really different kinds of remotes? he read me documentation stating that...and he says it's totally upgradeable in the future if i want to add the bridge kit at a later dat


I hadn't realized it before, but the remote I have _is_ both RF and IR. It's a "Platinum Technology" remote "for PowerRise, PowerGlide, and PowerTilt Systems". So that remote will work for both RF and/or IR window coverings. You want to be sure that the window coverings have the RF capability, not just IR (although it might have both). 

Here's how to know for sure that what you're buying is the right thing. According to the HD FAQ page ( http://www.hunterdouglas.com/#!/frequently-asked-questions )


> The Platinum App is compatible with the following PowerRise 2.1 or PowerGlide 2.1 motorized products:
> 
> • Applause® Honeycomb Shades
> • Duette® Honeycomb Shades (includes Top-Down, Top-Down/Bottom-Up, Duolite, and Skylight configurations)
> • Designer Roller shades
> • Designer Screen shades
> • Luminette® Privacy Sheers
> • Luminette® Modern Draperies
> • Nantucket™ window shadings
> • Pirouette® window shadings
> • Silhouette® window shadings
> • Skyline® Gliding Window Panels
> • Vignette® Modern Roman Shades (Traditional™, Tailored™ and Tiered™ styles)


----------



## schwark1

for anyone that is interested in controlling their hunter douglas platinum gateway from their Mac via an Alfred workflow.. 

https://github.com/schwark/alfred-hunterdouglas

inspired by code that tannewt had posted earlier in this thread. controls windows, rooms or scenes.


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## Epacy

Anyone have any other updates on HD integration into Smart Things or any other automation?

I see Smart Things is integrating Somfy (Timber shades) with their V2 controller.


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## batlin27

I know this is an old thread but it shows fairly recent activity.

I just got 5 of these for my Master Bedroom. First off I was very unhappy to hear that you would only control 4 of them independently and that I would have to link up 2+ shades to be able to control them all via the remote (this seems to be different with the app but still annoying) 

When they work they are great, but they seem to be VERY flaky. Sometimes only 2 of the 5 will get the signal through both the remote OR the Bridge kit, sometimes all of them will work, sometimes only 4 of them will work and sometimes they doesn't get the signal at all. I just got these a few days ago and we very excited but they seem to be way to flaky. Anyone else have this sort of experience?


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## notek

batlin27 said:


> I just got these a few days ago and we very excited but they seem to be way to flaky. Anyone else have this sort of experience?


Yes.

As part of integration I made a code change to repeat the last command after about 5 seconds - and that fixed the problem for me when shades are integrated into a larger system.

Now it is flaky only when the network layer on the HD bridge goes haywire, which happens more often than I would like...


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## humbug2

I have 3 older Duettes powered by transformers and controlled by a wall switch. I have had several problems over the years which have been due to the insubstantial wiring and connections. I have resorted to bits of tape and cut and splice. 

They are not suitable for anywhere you cannot get to them for repairs or for any application where dependable service is needed.


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## batlin27

notek said:


> Yes.
> 
> As part of integration I made a code change to repeat the last command after about 5 seconds - and that fixed the problem for me when shades are integrated into a larger system.
> 
> Now it is flaky only when the network layer on the HD bridge goes haywire, which happens more often than I would like...


When you say integrated what do you mean? How do you do this?


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## batlin27

humbug2 said:


> I have 3 older Duettes powered by transformers and controlled by a wall switch. I have had several problems over the years which have been due to the insubstantial wiring and connections. I have resorted to bits of tape and cut and splice.
> 
> They are not suitable for anywhere you cannot get to them for repairs or for any application where dependable service is needed.


These are the battery ones. Lucky they are in a location that is easily acessable I am just annoyed that they work about 50% of the time the way I want them to  Bad thing about blinds is they are non refundable since they are "custom" to the windows


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## notek

batlin27 said:


> When you say integrated what do you mean? How do you do this?


Custom integration with RadioRA 2 system - HD shades are tied into RA2 morning/evening scenes, as well as into keypad buttons. You do this by writing a component which listens to events in RA2 and converts those to HD bridge commands, and you install it on any available server you have.


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## wkearney99

I've got some of the new PowerView blinds. Not sure what to think yet, so I posted about it here.


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## Jasonn B

Another issue. Regarding 1.0 powerrise duette honeycombo. Per this instructions....

1) Shade has no power - Replace the batteries. Check the battery tube for any cracks and make sure the tube is firmly seated in the contacts.
2) Motor is burned out - Replace the motor
3) IR Eye board is burned out - Replace IR-Eye Board
4) Lift Limit Switch - Broken/Faulty, Needs adjusted or lift cord is not in front of metal switch arm. Limit Switch Troubleshooting
5) Reset Shade Limits - Lower Shade completely. If the motor is not responding then you may have to slip motor out of Lift-Cord-Shaft to dis-engage then lower shade fully then re-engage motor into Lift-Cord-Shaft. Once shade is fully lowered, point the remote controller at the IR-Eye in Headrail or Satelite eye and press the Down button (on the remote controller) for 5+ seconds then hit the up button. If the shade does not respond then see steps 1-4 above.


I think I need to do step #5. Do you have any idea on how to remote that little motor out of the lift cord shaft?

Shade was fine, but batteries died 6 months ago (shade is halfway down), and I didn't try replacing batteries until yesterday. After I put new batteries in, you can hear the motor try to go, and then it instantly stops, because I think it thinks it's in the full top position, but it's not. And I can't reset by holding down the down arrow on remote, because the shade isn't fully DOWN, which it said it's needs to be down to reset it.. Thanks!


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