# Show me your RACK



## lynchmob723

Of equipment of course. Preferably in theater/room


Im looking for ideas/pictures


Such as:

Behind the bar rack

In a side wall

Underneath the screen

Etc.....


If time allows, comment on why you choose to do it the way you did


Thanks


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## Ridebreck

I thought you were getting ready for Mardi Gras early for a second there.










I'm planning on building out a small closet to house my equipment in the back corner of my HT. I'm trying to do things on basically a shoestring budget so alas, no Middle Atlantic rack for me. It's probably not the best for acoustics, but I'm kind of limited in what I can do given my room constraints.


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## Don_Kellogg

yeah baby..


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## chinadog

This topic came up about a year ago, interesting thread. It's probably been archived by now.


My rack is in the concession area. I built a separate closet for it and is easily accessible with a door on the side of the closet. Includes a bathroom fan with a temperature controlled switch. Its a middle Atlantic Slim 5-43. Go the larger one so there is plenty of room for expansion. The bottom part of the rack is all blanks.



















All the rack pictures:
http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...cinema-1/rack/ 


Bud


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## BIGmouthinDC

My Wife said she didn't want to look at equipment.


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## Nasty N8

built my own racks and had it all wired here to begin with. No big deal it is temp as we plan to move this summer. I like to see my equipment but the light are slightly distracting but I can shut most of them off.


Nate


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## MikeN

Sorry, dont have a good full shot, so this will have to do for now.


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## kriscad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ridebreck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought you were getting ready for Mardi Gras early for a second there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on building out a small closet to house my equipment in the back corner of my HT. I'm trying to do things on basically a shoestring budget so alas, no Middle Atlantic rack for me. It's probably not the best for acoustics, but I'm kind of limited in what I can do given my room constraints.





haha


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## Touchdown

I'd be interested in seeing any pictures of people who maybe but their equipment in another room. I have mine in the utility room right now and curious about seeing other setups


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## Epicurus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Touchdown* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be interested in seeing any pictures of people who maybe but their equipment in another room. I have mine in the utility room right now and curious about seeing other setups



Any drawbacks of having your equipment in the utility room, I'm thinking about doing the same in a new house. Any pics or recommendations?


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## ChrisWiggles

I thought this thread was about something else...


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## chinadog

Chris,


Here is the other "Show us your rack" thread. It got ... well, creative.

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...highlight=rack 


Bud


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## Art Sonneborn

Here are a couple:


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## McCall

Hey if you got em flaunt em, I got em!


even if I am a grandma.


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## ChrisWiggles

I wonder how much those racks cost...


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## BIGmouthinDC

If you have to ask, you couldn't afford the annual maintenance fees.


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## GarenT

Mine is in the back, and I have an IR sensor in the front to control everything. Rack is DIY using rails and trays from parts express. "door" opens for wire management and receiver slides out to access it.



















Garen


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## gremmy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are a couple:



God I love that girl on the right.











Shh, don't tell my wife.


P.S.


Check out my build thread in my sig. for pictures of my equipment rack.


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## S2G-Unit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are a couple:




Jean-Claude Van DAAMMNNN they're fine...lol


You guys should visit Montreal if you haven't already been. We have got tons of women like that


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## stef2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S2G-Unit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jean-Claude Van DAAMMNNN they're fine...lol
> 
> 
> You guys should visit Montreal if you haven't already been. We have got tons of women like that





Living 15 minutes away from Montreal, I can assure you the above comment is barely exaggerated...


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## chinadog

St. Catherine's Street is one of my favorite place's in the world for that very reason...


Bud


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## ChrisWiggles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gremmy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> God I love that girl on the right.



Good deal, because I'm no fan of blondes. I'll take the one on the left.


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## ChrisWiggles

Also, if you want to see some really ridiculous racks:

http://www.cedia.net/awards/industry_recognition06.php


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## kezug

Ok, this thread fell by the way side.... we need more pics of racks!


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## TekHousE

ChrisWiggles link was awesome..! Thanks for that mate


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## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisWiggles* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good deal, because I'm no fan of blondes. I'll take the one on the left.



I'll take anything.


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## Max Lomax

Woodgrain Xbox baby-


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## GPowers

Front all doors open:











Just DVD access door open:










Back of rack:


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## rlhjr34

I have to say I was a little hesitant to open this thread. I feared there would be nothing but pictures of sweaty man boobs in here.


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## McCall




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlhjr34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to say I was a little hesitant to open this thread. I feared there would be nothing but pictures of sweaty man boobs in here.



Hm, from my point of view that might have been an improvement!


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## calv1n

Just set mine up last weekend. Still need to do some work on it and I'm waiting for a few more faceplates. I've still got to do some touch up drywall and final painting as well before its done.


(Click on picture to enlarge photo)

 


Door On.

 


Door on

 


I have more pics in the construction thread.


Cheers

Calvin


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## misterkit

Where is everybody getting their racks from? Sounds like a lot of them are Middle Atlantic brands...


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## calv1n

Mine is a MA.


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## Vincent Kennedy

Middle Atlantic SRSR 4-30 Series 19" Rotating Sliding Rail System 


Soon I will be buying the customized shelves...


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## calv1n

Vincent is that the APC S10 or S15 ? I see on the bottom of the rack? I'm just looking at both of those units right now for my rack what are your impressions of the unit?

Thanks

Calvin


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## chinadog

Got my MA Slim 5 at BSWUSA.com.


Bud


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## GPowers

Mine is a combination of several vendors Chatsworth, Gubber, and Middle Atlantic etc.. Most rack parts are standardized and interchangeable so I shop for the best price.


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## chinadog

I agree with Mr. Powers. In fact I bought some stuff from the Gubber store on eBay and got my shelves from Worthington.


Bud


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## CARTERlikesPants




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Lomax* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Woodgrain Xbox baby-



Have to say, that's beautiful.


I wish I had the space for a "real" home theater.


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## Vincent Kennedy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calv1n* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Vincent is that the APC S10 or S15 ? I see on the bottom of the rack? I'm just looking at both of those units right now for my rack what are your impressions of the unit?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Calvin



Sadly it is neither. It is an H10 which is only the Power Conditioner. I wanted an S15, but it was too much to justify. My projector is the main thing that needs battery back-up and it is plugged in elsewhere, so I decided to save some money and only get an H10 for the rest of the components.


Next time I design it so my projector gets it'spower from the same place as the components (power run back to component rack). That way it has a battery back-up and I don't need two power conditioners.


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## pmauro

How did you inset the x-box and other non-rack-mount components? Did you make them yourself? They're awesome.


pete


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## dreamhost

I'm making the trip tomorrow to pickup a rack for my system. I'm curious if it's better to get one with sides or without. For right now, it's just going into a closet so appearance doesn't matter all that much. I'm more worried about heat buildup than anything else.


any advice?


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## Max Lomax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmauro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How did you inset the x-box and other non-rack-mount components? Did you make them yourself? They're awesome.
> 
> 
> pete



They make custom faceplates for just about everything. I swear by them.


As far as heat buildup, the shelves actually keep the components separated to allow for airflow around each piece. You can install cooling fans etc to help with circulation if needed.


If the rack is going in a closet, I prefer the ERK solid sided units. It hides the wires etc and even though it's free-standing it still looks very nice.


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## T.Wells




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Lomax* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They make custom faceplates for just about everything. I swear by them.



I've been looking on the Middle Atlantic web site at how to size up the custom faceplates. Can you provide us with some links on where to buy them online and give us an idea of typical cost.


Thanks,

T.Wells


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## Texas Aggie

I have bought from Lashen and will again. Roughly 110 a shelf though but that is the going rate.


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## Max Lomax

Download the rackshelf database here-------> http://repnet.middleatlantic.com/rsh/RSHdataDepth.txt 



The rackshelf part number is the same as the make and model #of your component. It also tells you the number of rackspaces each shelf will take up. Use this info to size your rack, don't forget to include vent spaces, storage, and room for future upgrades if needed.


I recommend downloading Racktools from the Middle Atlantic website. It is software used for doing rack drawings and generating take offs. It gives you overall dimensions as well. It's pretty easy to figure out and this way you can see what the rack will look like before you order anything.


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## c-not-k

I have a wall-mount 36" server rack from X-Mark 


Here's the shelf the contractor built for it.











Here it is installed.











From the front











Wide view











I'm a network guy, which is why I went with a server rack. (I thought I'd save money, but that turned out not to be the case. I forgot about shipping charges.) I had originally planned on a floor-to-ceiling unit by the stairs, until my wife found the bar and I didn't have enough space. Room in the cabinet is starting to get tight, and I have yet to add a high-def disk player and cable box. The VCR will probably get punted. I like the look; it's clean and the glass is IR-transparent.


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## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lynchmob723\\* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of equipment of course. Preferably in theater/room
> 
> 
> Im looking for ideas/pictures
> 
> 
> Such as:
> 
> Behind the bar rack
> 
> In a side wall
> 
> Underneath the screen
> 
> Etc.....
> 
> 
> If time allows, comment on why you choose to do it the way you did
> 
> 
> Thanks



Hello:


I went with a Middle Atlantic rack + wheels.


Pic's below are the rack as delivered, empty and then full.


I have since added the top plate with the automatic fans, spacers and a 1U drawer.


I am very happy with the rack and the accessories that are available.


Splotto


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## jjcritch

Attached is a picture of the rack idea I have come up with using RackTools. Its a MA Slim 5 



This is the link to a 3D rendered video of the HT design this will be going into (under the stairs.)
Home theater 3D rendering 


Input welcome.


Check out the space I have to work with in the attachments here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=81559 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=81560 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=81561 



My questions are, are the MA plates to fit components such as an Xbox360 easily ordered, do they come with the shelf that the component sits on and is there a way to get them cheaper than $167.41?






Full video: Full HT vid


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## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My questions are, are the MA plates to fit components such as an Xbox360 easily ordered, do they come with the shelf that the component sits on and is there a way to get them cheaper than $167.41?



Hello:


My MA rack didn't come with anything. I had to order the screws and shelves separately.


As for the plates, or ears as I started calling them - the only plates I am using are those that came with the items themselves. I am not sure you will find MA plates that match the screw holes in your separates.


You should also consider rear support if you have something really heavy. My AMP weighs about 125 lbs loaded and it wasn't going to be supported by just the plates. I had to add a self-made cross brace at the back to support the unit.


Splotto


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## swifty7




Art Sonneborn said:


> Here are a couple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this rack the best! SPECIALLY THE BLONDE ONE SHE'S ANGELIC


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## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Splotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As for the plates, or ears as I started calling them - the only plates I am using are those that came with the items themselves. I am not sure you will find MA plates that match the screw holes in your separates.
> 
> Splotto




My reciever, amps, UPS, video scaler...all will probably have "ears", but to get that clean look like Max Lomax's setup (in particular the Xbox360 and other game systems) I am going to want some perfectly pre-shaped cut out front panels. What is the best place to get them? Cheapest?


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## johnnykretentiv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Wife said she didn't want to look at equipment.



AWESOME!!!!


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## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My reciever, amps, UPS, video scaler...all will probably have "ears", but to get that clean look like Max Lomax's Max Lomax's setup (in particular the Xbox360 and other game systems) I am going to want some perfectly pre-shaped cut out front panels. What is the best place to get them? Cheapest?




I got all my equipment from:

http://www.performanceaudio.com/ 


They say that they will do custom face plates for the MA racks if you provide the make and model of the item.


Splotto


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## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Splotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> http://www.performanceaudio.com/
> 
> 
> Splotto



Thanks, thats a great source for good prices on these products.


I finally get the custom panel/shelf thing. Here are the links:
http://repnet.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp 
http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=2225 
http://www.performanceaudio.com/medi...132/2225_s.pdf 

I didn't realize the supporting shelf is all part of the deal. Looks easy to order, its just under the RSH part numbers.



Another question for Max Lomax or whoever. How do you get the rack to flushmount to the wood/wall around the rack like that? Just really precise measureing?


I dont want to end up with something like this guy where there are big gaps:


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## Max Lomax

First you need rear axcess to the rack enclosure, since it is a fixed rack system and you can't pull it out. Then you have to mount rack rails directly to the trim. 19 1/8" width to be exact.

If you have to use a pullout rack, then a slight gap around it is necessary for service. Cut that as close as you want, but you don't want to damage the trim when you are servicing the rack. If you have a clever finish carpenter, he can probably figure out a way make the side trim removable during service, yet have it fasten right in tight to the rack once you've pushed it back in.


I could be more helpful if I knew your exact application.


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## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Lomax* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I could be more helpful if I knew your exact application.




Maybe you didn't see my post up above:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10526860 


Check out this picture
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=81561 


Down in the left corner of the picture you can see where the rack will mount behind the curtains.


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## Max Lomax

Lol, no I didn't see that sorry..


Well, if having rear access is impossible, then you really can't do a fixed rail system like mine. Well, you could if you really knew what you were doing with these racks, but I'm not even going to attempt to tell you how, it wouldn't be a good recommendation.


Like I said, your best bet is to find a really good finish carpenter and tell him what sort of look you are going for, and get the rack ahead of time so he can have it there to work with. I'm sure they can get you pretty close.


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## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Lomax* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lol, no I didn't see that sorry..
> 
> 
> Well, if having rear access is impossible, then you really can't do a fixed rail system like mine. Well, you could if you really knew what you were doing with these racks, but I'm not even going to attempt to tell you how, it wouldn't be a good recommendation.
> 
> 
> Like I said, your best bet is to find a really good finish carpenter and tell him what sort of look you are going for, and get the rack ahead of time so he can have it there to work with. I'm sure they can get you pretty close.



Again, sorry about the miscommunication. I do in fact have rear access to the rack. It is in the wall under the stairs so the cubby room will allow me access to the back. I am planning the Slim 5 MA and I was going to have drywall/mud up to the edge. Think this will work or should I go with molding? I just want that clean look like you have--almost like the face plates are screwed right into the wall.


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## Max Lomax

I can't really tell what is going on there from the pictures.


But ok. If you have rear access, then you don't need to buy a rack, just the front rails.(Like $40 bucks). You mount the rails directly to the trim. I cannot overstate the importance of designing the rack ahead of time and getting the materials in before you start, especially if you haven't done this before. The opening needs to be built around the rack, not the other way around.


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## Sauwill

Does anyone know of a DIY thread on how to build an inwall rack using just rack rails instead of buying the full rack? I will have access to the rear of the rack. Used the search and came up with alot of people that had done this but none showing or explainging how they did it.


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## T.Wells

Hello-


I am just setting up my rack and I really like the finished look of the custom face plates for non-rack mount equipment. I will spend the $$ to buy the $100+ for each of my pieces but I really started thinking about it when it came to the cable box. I'll have two and of course these things get changed out sometimes fairly quickly. Is there a generic shelf with a hinged door that will actually just hide the cable box as I won't need a line of sight to the box for IR?


Thanks,

T.Wells


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## Max Lomax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sauwill* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a DIY thread on how to build an inwall rack using just rack rails instead of buying the full rack? I will have access to the rear of the rack. Used the search and came up with alot of people that had done this but none showing or explainging how they did it.



My upstairs rack is constructed this way. I am doing another one shortly in my Theater, so I will post a DIY thread on this type of application as soon as I'm done building it. It's extremely simple.


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## Sauwill

Thanks Max! Look forward to seeing it!


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## Minhas

i want to somehow make a DIY rotating rack, as i wont have rear access to my rack and would rather not spend over $1000 on a prefabbed one. Has anybody pulled this off yet?


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## Avatar8481

Here's the rack I welded up myself out of steel I had leftover from another project. Yeah it's not quite level, but the components don't know that and the price was right (free).


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## jjcritch

Max, can't wait to see that DIY post. So hurry it up! Just kidding.


Here is what I have come up with using Rack Tools


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## bmackrell

Here is a picture of the Middle Atlantic rack I have installed in the back of my theater:




















Equipment:


Motorola HD Cable box

Oppo 981 DVD

Toshiba XA-2 HD-DVD

Outlaw 990 Processor

Outlaw 7125 Amp

Xbox-360

(2) Triad Silver Sub Amps (250W)


I apologize for the dark image. The whole theater is finished in black and blue GOM so it's really hard to get a good photo.


I also have a larger MA rack built into a custom entertainment center around the corner that I'll try and get a few photos of.


Regards,


Billmac


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## bmackrell

Finally got a couple of pictures of my other Middle Atlantic Rack around the corner from my Home Theater. This rack was built into a custom entertainment center wall unit during the basement project and houses most of my old equipment. It gives the kid a place to watch TV, movies and play their video games. The doors are on custom hinges so they can slide into the sides of the rack while the equipment is in use.



















Equipment:


5 way video switch

Motorola HD Cable box

NHT Sub Amp

Polk XM radio receiver

Pioneer DVD Player

Pioneer A/V Receiver

Xbox

Playstaion2

Dell 42" Plasma




















The MA rack is a 78" SLIM-5 that goes all the way down to the base.












I hope that gives you some more ideas of what you can do.


Regards,


Billmac


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## CCDAstro

Here is my rack in my electronics bay room. Very industrial but to get to the wires is a huge effort. I have to walk all the way around to the other side of the rack! Oh those three steps!


Powder coated welded steel and formica covered shelves.


Also pics of theater build


All pics here


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## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the Middle Atlantic rack I have installed in the back of my theater:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Equipment:
> 
> 
> Motorola HD Cable box
> 
> Oppo 981 DVD
> 
> Toshiba XA-2 HD-DVD
> 
> Outlaw 990 Processor
> 
> Outlaw 7125 Amp
> 
> Xbox-360
> 
> (2) Triad Silver Sub Amps (250W)
> 
> 
> I apologize for the dark image. The whole theater is finished in black and blue GOM so it's really hard to get a good photo.
> 
> 
> I also have a larger MA rack built into a custom entertainment center around the corner that I'll try and get a few photos of.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Billmac



Looks like the same rack I have.


How do you like the custom face plates? I was thinking about getting them for my PS3 & XBOX.


Splotto


----------



## bmackrell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Splotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like the same rack I have.
> 
> 
> How do you like the custom face plates? I was thinking about getting them for my PS3 & XBOX.
> 
> 
> Splotto



Splotto,


I like the custom MA face plates. They are a little expensive but you end up with a nice clean look. I will say that the quality control leaves a little to be desired on newer components but as products have been on the market for a while they tighten or adjust the laser cut. For instance, I ordered an Outlaw 7125, 7 channel amp when they first came out and the first faceplate I received didn't account for the rubber feet so it didn't fit, eventually they got it right. I also pre-ordered a Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD player and the faceplate I received was not cut properly to account for the front control panel door to swing open. My solution was to remove the door. The two triad sub amp faceplates are a little bit off also. My advice would be to wait until a product has been on the market for at least 6 months before purchasing custom face plates from MA.


For more main stream a/v and entertainment components like Xbox, Xbox 360, PS2 they fit and look great.


I'm not sure how the PS3 would fit into a rack mount though. I originally looked at getting one but with the curved design and side ports I didn't think it would be that functional in the rack.


I've bought all my Middle Atlantic custom rack mounted shelves from Chris at StayOnline.com. They've been very responsive each time I purchased and took care of the most of the problems I had. I went with them based on recommendations from others here on AVS.


Contact info:

Chris Knout

Rack/Premise Wiring Sales Mgr. www.Stayonline.com 

8121 Brownleigh Drive

Raleigh, NC

27617

Fax: 919-510-5466

Phone: 1-888-346-4688 ext:118
[email protected] 


Good Luck,


Regards,


BillMac


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## tek-noid

A current work in progress..





























To get to the "back of the rack", I bring the tracks in from the garage and mount them to front of the rack (first moving one chair out of the way), and then slide everything out. It is not as convenient as other solutions, but it only takes 5 minutes. The theory is that once I'm done, I won't be doing it that often. We'll see about that...


And, yes, I know I have some wire management issues to deal with.


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## Mach1_8

That's a pretty sweet door...did you build that yourself?


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## tek-noid

Mach1_8,


No, the door was done by our cabinet maker so it would match the rest of the house. I had the glass done at a local shop and mounted it in the opening. The fabric behind the window is taped on there now - a more permanent mount is on the "todo" list.


When the fan is active, there is quite the breeze through the hole in the glass. We'll see how that works.


James


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## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Splotto,
> 
> 
> I like the custom MA face plates. They are a little expensive but you end up with a nice clean look. I will say that the quality control leaves a little to be desired on newer components but as products have been on the market for a while they tighten or adjust the laser cut. For instance, I ordered an Outlaw 7125, 7 channel amp when they first came out and the first faceplate I received didn't account for the rubber feet so it didn't fit, eventually they got it right. I also pre-ordered a Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD player and the faceplate I received was not cut properly to account for the front control panel door to swing open. My solution was to remove the door. The two triad sub amp faceplates are a little bit off also. My advice would be to wait until a product has been on the market for at least 6 months before purchasing custom face plates from MA.
> 
> 
> For more main stream a/v and entertainment components like Xbox, Xbox 360, PS2 they fit and look great.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how the PS3 would fit into a rack mount though. I originally looked at getting one but with the curved design and side ports I didn't think it would be that functional in the rack.
> 
> 
> I've bought all my Middle Atlantic custom rack mounted shelves from Chris at StayOnline.com. They've been very responsive each time I purchased and took care of the most of the problems I had. I went with them based on recommendations from others here on AVS.
> 
> 
> Contact info:
> 
> Chris Knout
> 
> Rack/Premise Wiring Sales Mgr. www.Stayonline.com
> 
> 8121 Brownleigh Drive
> 
> Raleigh, NC
> 
> 27617
> 
> Fax: 919-510-5466
> 
> Phone: 1-888-346-4688 ext:118
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> BillMac



Bill:


Thanks for the feedback. I do like the look. I have almost recreated the same look by using the 1U spacers in combo with the 3U shelves. It gives the device room to breath but it hides the gap to the viewer. I also purchased the rack top with the auto fans - it keeps it pretty cool.


I can see your point with the PS3. It doesn't lend itself well to a plate.


Overall I couldn't be happier with the MA rack.


Splotto


----------



## Ridebreck

I'm still in the design stage for my closet. My room is fairly small (12' x 16') and I'll have no access to the rear of the equipment other than what I create, so I'm currently planning on building a series of pull-out shelves for my gear in order to avoid having a huge closet in the back of my theater. However, I want to also try and create that custom faceplate look, so it gets a bit tricky to say the least. A pull-out, rotating rack would be the cat's meow, but unfortunately I just don't have the budget. I'll post pics when I finally get things built.


----------



## bmackrell

I bought a couple of Middle Atlantic vertical power strips last month for my two racks but long equipment power cables are a pain to wrap up when the strip is right next to the component. I just got an email from MA announcing some new products and these caught my eye:











Here's a link to the product page: Short IEC Power Cords 


Thought some of you that are building out your racks would be interested.


Regards,


billmac


----------



## NeoOiler

Here is what I have for a rack. It is a retrofitted old rack I had to fit under my stairs into my theatre.


----------



## Muadi

Max,


Is your rack made up of a full Middle Atlantic rack, or, is it just the rack rails? I want to create my own rack using their rails (can't afford the metal ones).


More detailed pics?


Thanks


----------



## bigDvette

Here is mine. Still in construction so I need to dress the back at completion. Because it is an AXS rotating rack, I tried to keep a lot of stuff on the back of the rack which has made cabeling a bit harder. Plus I can't use those nifty rail mount power strips and power supplies.


I'm 6'2" and 300lbs and I can climb in to the closet space back there to tinker with some of the network equipment and my raid box back there on a shelf.






























And here is all teh equipment in and attached to the rack (I'm using the front and the back rails)


Equipment list for this room:


-Middle Atlantic Rotating Rack System with 2 high speed fans

-Custom Rack shelves for each component

-Onkyo TX-NR1000 receiver

-PureAV 1500VA UPS

-Global Cache gc-100-18

-Modded XBOX used as XBMC media server

-XBOX 360 and HDDVD for 360

-Oppo 970H Upscaling DVD

-Custom Built HTPC using SilverTek LCM18 enclosure with 7" LCD

-2 - Series 3 Tivos with Dual Cablecards

-VideoStorm 8x4 HDTV Switch with Digital HDMI board

-Middle Atlantic Surge Suppressor with Light

-TV One HDTV to SD scaler for one output to go to analog TVs

-2 stereo Modulators from CElabs

-Linksys 16port Gigabit Switch (drives XBOX, 360, Tivos, HTPC, NetTune on receiver, Global Cache ...)

-2 - External SATA drives with 750gb storage attached to the 2 Tivos

-HD Signal Scaler to send video to 7" LCD on HTPC (all video sources can be displayed on the screen)

-Xantech IR Router

-Audio Authority HDTV over CAT5 system

-DVI Gear - DVI 1x4 splitter to push the HDCP compliant HDMI output to 2 other HDTVs besides the projector.


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Splotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bill:
> 
> 
> I can see your point with the PS3. It doesn't lend itself well to a plate.
> 
> 
> Overall I couldn't be happier with the MA rack.
> 
> 
> Splotto



Another user got the custom plate for the PS3. It protrudes 1.75" (I asked via PM). Nice guy, nice rack:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enchntr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's mine in my rack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the whole rack, here's the image:


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...07#post9587207


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muadi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Max,
> 
> 
> Is your rack made up of a full Middle Atlantic rack, or, is it just the rack rails? I want to create my own rack using their rails (can't afford the metal ones).
> 
> 
> More detailed pics?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Mine is rails (in progress). Can require creative thinking if you want to add a mid-atlantic door to it, and your rack is more than 20 spaces (see my build thread starting around post #230 ).


It is pretty straight-forward, just space your opening and screw the rails in securely.



























EDIT - Finished pics:


----------



## Muadi

Very nice. Thanks for the pics.


I'm setting up my theater with no equipment in the room it self. It is placed in a closet outside the room (back theater wall). I constructed a standard closet with two sets of bi-fold doors. My inital plan was to construct either a single or a dual rack. This rack would be free standing (maybe on casters for better rear access).


Thoughts on stability worry me a bit. I have not yet worked with any racks, and most of you all have. I'll have 4-5 amps, plus another 5-6 components.


I planned on using simple 2x4 construction. Vertical board, support leg on the ground bolted to the vertical board, and a 60 degree 2x4 from the base of the bottom board up to the back side if the vertical board. I'd have 2 or 3 of these (making a single or a dual) tied together with horizontal bracing between them.


Any thoughts on this? $600 plus shipping is a lot of cash for me atm. I saw some cheaper racks by Middle Atlantic, but they only have a load capacity of 400 lbs. --- Should I build or buy?


----------



## Cherokee180c




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigDvette* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is mine. Still in construction so I need to dress the back at completion. Because it is an AXS rotating rack, I tried to keep a lot of stuff on the back of the rack which has made cabeling a bit harder. Plus I can't use those nifty rail mount power strips and power supplies.
> 
> 
> I'm 6'2" and 300lbs and I can climb in to the closet space back there to tinker with some of the network equipment and my raid box back there on a shelf.



Man that rack is killer!!! I like the paint job too as it looks very similar to mine. I went with a more conservative built in rack that looks fairly clean.


----------



## kezug

swifty7 said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn*
> 
> Here are a couple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this rack the best! SPECIALLY THE BLONDE ONE SHE'S ANGELIC


----------



## Landho

Not mine personally, but a customers... Recessed at the back of the living room, near the entrance to the master B/R - houses cable box, monster power, Onkyo A/V receiver for the living room and zone2 office, CELabs HD distributor, RTI remote control processor and RF, DVD holder (cheesy?) and an Onkyo amp for the whole-house audio and backyard audio.


----------



## Borntobe

Rack w/Smoked Glass Door


----------



## Glackowitz

Here is a few pics of a rack I just finished up. Its a MA AXS sliding rack


----------



## Arialis

Nice racks, But I think I am missing something. I am not seeing the backs closed off on many. And I am not seeing any fans for cooling. I know my rack is really hot and Had problems with my computer shutting off so I had to remove the back for now untill I can install some type of cooling solution.


----------



## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arialis* /forum/post/12176962
> 
> 
> Nice racks, But I think I am missing something. I am not seeing the backs closed off on many. And I am not seeing any fans for cooling. I know my rack is really hot and Had problems with my computer shutting off so I had to remove the back for now untill I can install some type of cooling solution.



I have the top plate on my MA rack with 3 fans mounted in it. It has a thermostat controller so they come on whenever the temp gets to a certain level.


Splotto


----------



## mmmkam

Here are some pics on my DIY pull out (soon to be rotating) SLIM5 rack.


Still work in progress, but works great!


----------



## tek-noid

I have a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan in the ceiling of the cabinet that holds my rack - the air dumps into the attic.


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/12177532
> 
> 
> Here are some pics on my DIY pull out (soon to be rotating) SLIM5 rack.
> 
> 
> Still work in progress, but works great!



Wow, that's pretty dang cool! How much are those sliders rated for? I'm thinking about building a rolling rack with casters and a face plate on the edges of the rack so it looks built in until you pull it out. Hadn't figured that I could DIY the sliders.


Mike


----------



## mmmkam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/12182175
> 
> 
> Wow, that's pretty dang cool! How much are those sliders rated for? I'm thinking about building a rolling rack with casters and a face plate on the edges of the rack so it looks built in until you pull it out. Hadn't figured that I could DIY the sliders.
> 
> 
> Mike



They are rated for 500lbs. They are about 3" in height and really heavy. The 12" lazy susan bracket that I got to go with it is rated for 1000lbs. The rack itself is only rated for 400lbs. I figure even if the setup is good for half the rating thats more than I will need anyway. I put a bunch of details on the parts in my construction thread if you want more detail. The best part is that you dont have to hassle with any service tracks or stands when you want to pull it out. I tested in with my approx 200lbs arrrss standing on it at full extention and it held fine.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey All,


I don't know where to post these pics. but it's a good idea on how to not do a Rack. Mods move them if you need to. I got these from a Training I attended. He didn't want to reveal the customers to us.


peace


----------



## Grae

I finished this one up a couple months ago. Not mine, but a client of the company I work for.


----------



## GPowers

Very nice... looks like every thing is field terminated. Thats a lot of work. But it looks fantastic.


----------



## cinemascope




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/12182175
> 
> 
> Wow, that's pretty dang cool! How much are those sliders rated for? I'm thinking about building a rolling rack with casters and a face plate on the edges of the rack so it looks built in until you pull it out. Hadn't figured that I could DIY the sliders.
> 
> 
> Mike



Please do not emulate this shade tree mechanic or his accident waiting to happen.


Middle Atlantic makes their own sliding rack systems, including racks which slide out and swivel.


MAPs offerings go up to 30 spaces, and beyond that they recommend the AXS product family with the service track and track stand.


There is a great reason for that, and that reason is SAFETY.

They also include a safety strap for all large sliding racks to enhance safety.


Grab the photos of that rack, and you will see that it is already leaning forward with virtually no equipment in the rack...


Regardless of the rating of the drawer slides used, or whether or not it held the builder, this is not advisable method in any way, shape, or form.


Besides, you mentioned a clean look, the use of these drawer slides on a homemade base with galvanized angle brackets is far from clean open or closed.


I know that MAP racks are expensive, this is because they are well-engineered and they stand behind them.

If you want to skimp and save money, there are thousands of great ideas here on the AVS forum for ways to do a lot of your room yourself with common materials.


But don't skimp on safety.


----------



## Vincent Kennedy

Anyone know if Middle Atlantic has any plans on selling an RSH faceplate/shelf for an Xbox360 with the HD DVD drive above it? I dont want to use 3U for the Xbox and another 2U for the HD DVD drive. I would like to stack them on one shelf.


----------



## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vincent Kennedy* /forum/post/12395519
> 
> 
> Anyone know if Middle Atlantic has any plans on selling an RSH faceplate/shelf for an Xbox360 with the HD DVD drive above it? I dont want to use 3U for the Xbox and another 2U for the HD DVD drive. I would like to stack them on one shelf.


 www.performanceaudio.com says they will do custom faceplates.


Go back a page and you will see some posts about it.


I am sure if you give them the dimensions you can get the faceplate you need.


Splotto


----------



## SRR




----------



## cinemascope




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vincent Kennedy* /forum/post/12395519
> 
> 
> Anyone know if Middle Atlantic has any plans on selling an RSH faceplate/shelf for an Xbox360 with the HD DVD drive above it? I dont want to use 3U for the Xbox and another 2U for the HD DVD drive. I would like to stack them on one shelf.



Probably not... MAP only adds components to the RSH database when they are sent in to be measured. This is because they guarantee the fit.


In my experience, they will not add stacked components to the database, but they will do anything you wish as a custom cut...

If you send in drawings, they will cut a custom shelf. But if your drawings are not correct, you still own the result.


I have written more orders for RSH shelves than probably anyone else in the US.


Either way, you are only saving 1U... I can't see how that is worth this hassle unless you only have 4 spaces left and all other options are exhausted.


----------



## Chuck1906

What all do you all have your in racks?! I am thinking I will only need about 4 components in mine. I probably will have the cable box, HD DVD player, PS3/Blueray, Tuner, and thats about it. I guess I could add an amp to the system at some point.


----------



## SteveMo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/12412754
> 
> 
> What all do you all have your in racks?! I am thinking I will only need about 4 components in mine. I probably will have the cable box, HD DVD player, PS3/Blueray, Tuner, and thats about it. I guess I could add an amp to the system at some point.



Currently I have six amplifiers (in use), an HD-DVD player, receiver, scaler, and a sub on top. I am out of room unless I put a player on my scaler or build a closet to accommodate more components. I would be very happy with a Blu-ray tuner combo as then I would only need one more shelf. There is no harm in planning to have separates later on and reserving lots of room for them helps out. The more room, the better.


----------



## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/12412754
> 
> 
> What all do you all have your in racks?! I am thinking I will only need about 4 components in mine. I probably will have the cable box, HD DVD player, PS3/Blueray, Tuner, and thats about it. I guess I could add an amp to the system at some point.



Hello:


Power Center/Surge Protector

PVR

HDMI switch

Receiver

AMP

HD-DVD

PS3

Xbox

HTPC


Splotto


----------



## scaesare

Many people prefer to not have their rack within the filed of view, but for my build it was the best location.


Here's a shot showing the the built-in equipment cabinets along with the proscenium forming a shadow box around my screen:










And here's a closeup of one of the cabinets with the smoked-glass door open:










As you can see from this picture, the cabinets were constructed with a removable side panel for wiring access:










A 3" conduit runs between the left and ride side cabinets to tie them together for wiring.


----------



## GPowers

NEC Video switch (backup)

NEC Viseo switch

Video Processor

Sound processor

Roku Soundbridge

Super Blue combo player

DVD player

Sat HD TV box

Neothings component switch

Xbox360 media streaming and games

Patch panel (ethernet & coaxial)

PC for remote control


----------



## specsix

Lots of work to do still.


----------



## scottyb

specsix,

Is that a Middle Alantic?


scott


----------



## specsix

yes sir!


----------



## budeone

All I can say is WOW. Those are just breathe taking.


----------



## auburnu008












I have rope lights around the screen and the rack that remote controlled. They are alot brighter than they look in this picture.



















As you can see I built casters on the bottom if I ever need to pull it out.


----------



## dreamhost

Ok I'm as dumb as they come... arggghhhh


Finally broke down and purchased 2 of the middle atlantic wrk44-27 self standing racks to put in my 'temp' theater closet.


My problem is the stupid closet door is only 22" and the rack is 26" wide, LOL. Man I can't believe I didn't measure first...


Anyhow, does anyone have any experience with these racks? What I am trying to find out is wether or not they can be disassembled and then reassembled inside the closet. All I seem to find is that they are 'fully welded' on the internet, and it's really hard to tell in looking at them if I can indeed take them apart. Obviously it's a huge job, and if it's not possible it would be nice to know beforehand.


Dad always said 'measure twice' spose I shoulda listened more carefully.


----------



## Glimmie





















Latest pic taken today. For more details look at my WEB site. The power amps on the WEB site however are old. The new system is all tube.


----------



## budeone

I have never seen anything like that before in my life.. I want it!


----------



## videocam

Glimmie,

Well done! I thought it was a TV station


----------



## Chuck1906

That looks like Master Control at a TV station or Video Production company! LOL!


----------



## SRR

Star Wars Episode IV, Kenobi's original lines: "Thats no TV station, thats a space station"


Glimmie, nice stuff.


----------



## Splotto

Glimmie:


That is HARD CORE. I am in a total state of envy.


Very well done.


Splotto

(HT-Girlie-Man compared to Glimmie)


----------



## tlllava

This rack does was designed as built-in shelves vs. the more common metal rack. Since it was built into a recess in the wall, the rack pulls out and rotates to access wiring.


----------



## scottyb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12642301
> 
> 
> I have never seen anything like that before in my life.. I want it!



Looks like too much work to me, but nice!


----------



## ghause

  


The walnut box is holding the radiator for the htpc's water cooling


----------



## al4

This is how it has been for the last couple of months.


Middle Atlantic BRK16 Rack + Casters + 2 U2 shelves

Furman PL-Plus Series II Power Conditioner

Nintendo Wii

Phillips DVD Player

DirecTiVo DVR

Harman Kardon AVR-247


JBL HT4V (Left & Right) JBL HT4H (Center), and Infinity PS-12 (Subwoofer)

Toshiba 20" CRT


This week:


Oppo Digital DV0-980H

Rear Rack Rails

2 U1 Shelves

1 Glass Door

And a cabling job.


Front:











Back:


----------



## Chuck1906

Has anyone heard of a company called Salamander that makes equipment racks? I just left the local HT store and they were telling me to check out their website to compare them against the MA racks but I don't see any comparison. Am i looking at the right site? I told the guy at the store I wanted a rack that could slide out so I would have access to the back and thats when he mentioned the Salamander company. To me, there stuff looks like furniture and not like racks like the MA products do.


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/12697854
> 
> 
> I told the guy at the store I wanted a rack that could slide out so I would have access to the back and thats when he mentioned the Salamander company. To me, there stuff looks like furniture and not like racks like the MA products do.



I don't think Salamander does in-wall racks. I think the big feature of their stuff is that it's somewhat modular and you can design a custom layout of shelves, drawers, panels, and so on. And you can conceivably roll the unit around and get to the back of it, which may be what the store guy thought you were talking about. A friend has one of the "Synergy" units and it basically appears to be made of 80/20 plus wooden panels and shelves.


----------



## yobo

Thought about putting the rack in the closet but it didn't seem right.










 ....


----------



## Sokoloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhost* /forum/post/12641966
> 
> 
> Ok I'm as dumb as they come... arggghhhh
> 
> 
> Finally broke down and purchased 2 of the middle atlantic wrk44-27 self standing racks to put in my 'temp' theater closet.
> 
> 
> My problem is the stupid closet door is only 22" and the rack is 26" wide, LOL. Man I can't believe I didn't measure first...
> 
> 
> Anyhow, does anyone have any experience with these racks? What I am trying to find out is wether or not they can be disassembled and then reassembled inside the closet.




I bought 2 secondhand Slim5 racks from MidAtlantic and they do bolt together, so you'll have no problem if they're like that. I suppose you'll know in a couple days either way... But since it would have to ship by freight carrier if it wasn't broken down, you might be able to tell from the shipping charges.


----------



## SPDSpappy

Thanks for all the great info (I think my brain is overloaded). I'd like to do something like the setup listed above (post #68)by bmackrell. I think this might be the MA Slim 5, but can't tell for sure. I need to be able have side & rear panels to block out the sound from the furnace sitting behind my HT, but still allow the components to adequately vent. I also need to make sure all the cables fit within the rack with the rear door closed (common sense, right? I noticed that many of these racks don't have rear doors and I just wanted to be completely clear. Do you all think the Slim 5 setup (if that's what it is) would work in this application? If not, what is my best bet? I don't want the sound from the HVAC getting through my rack after I spent all that time and $$$ sound insulating my backwall.


----------



## YoungOne

The slim 5 rack does have an available back door that can be purchased


----------



## yobo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SPDSpappy* /forum/post/12707939
> 
> 
> I think this might be the MA Slim 5, but can't tell for sure.



It looks like the slim 5 look at the upper left logo.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SPDSpappy* /forum/post/12707939
> 
> 
> I need to be able have side & rear panels to block out the sound from the furnace sitting behind my HT, but still allow the components to adequately vent.



You can see here the side panels for the slim 5 have passive cooling vents. Cover them with dynamat if you need.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SPDSpappy* /forum/post/12707939
> 
> 
> I also need to make sure all the cables fit within the rack with the rear door closed (common sense, right? I noticed that many of these racks don't have rear doors and I just wanted to be completely clear.



"Requiring less space than a conventional door, our rear access pans feature a unique no-hinge "tip-out" design. The bottom features a convenient laser knock-out for cable pass-through, securing keylock included."


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SPDSpappy* /forum/post/12707939
> 
> 
> Do you all think the Slim 5 setup (if that's what it is) would work in this application? If not, what is my best bet? I don't want the sound from the HVAC getting through my rack after I spent all that time and $$$ sound insulating my backwall.



Well, you can always pack insulation around the thing until your satisfied.


----------



## SPDSpappy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yobo* /forum/post/12710907
> 
> 
> It looks like the slim 5 look at the upper left logo.
> 
> 
> You can see here the side panels for the slim 5 have passive cooling vents. Cover them with dynamat if you need.
> 
> 
> "Requiring less space than a conventional door, our rear access pans feature a unique no-hinge "tip-out" design. The bottom features a convenient laser knock-out for cable pass-through, securing keylock included."
> 
> 
> Well, you can always pack insulation around the thing until your satisfied.



Thanks for the great info. I PM'd bmackrell and he confirmed it's a slim-5. I hadn't thought about putting insulation around the rack. If sound coming through it ends up being an issue w/ the panels, I'll definitely try that!


----------



## Chuck1906

Is 6 feet enough cable to use for equipment that is going to be housed in a rack? I could probably go with 3-4 but I figure it would probably be better to have extra then less! I know I am going to need to do a 25-30 foot HDMI run to the projector based on where I am going to put the rack.


----------



## Sokoloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/12733867
> 
> 
> Is 6 feet enough cable to use for equipment that is going to be housed in a rack? I could probably go with 3-4 but I figure it would probably be better to have extra then less! I know I am going to need to do a 25-30 foot HDMI run to the projector based on where I am going to put the rack.



I make sure to have on hand a variety of lengths of cables, as once you get a rack populated, "too long" is 90% as bad as "too short", unless you've left yourself ample cable management units. (And doing that chews up rack spaces as most theater racks don't have provisions for vertical cable management trays.)


Assuming you have good access to the back of the rack, I'd get 60% 1 meter, 30% 2 meter, 5% each 3 meter and .5 meter for a full height rack.


Disclaimer: I come from an IT background and have seen horrible rack configs as well as working at a place where we literally bought patch cables in 6" increments up to 8' and in 12" increments after that. That said, spending a few hundred bucks on "extra" cables has be something that I have never regretted.


I also make up my own bundles using split-loom tubing. For instance, an SD-DVD player will get a component, a red/white/SPDIF audio, and a Toslink cable all bundled inside a split loom tube with both ends taped and labelled "DVD2". That way, I get less tangling in the vertical cable management hooks that I've retro-fitted to my racks.


That's a real long way of saying "if you can get to the back of it, don't make yourself crazy by buying a whole ton of long spaghetti pieces..."










--Jim


----------



## jjmj427

I figured that I would throw a picture of my rack up there since it is 95% done.












Here is a picture with the sliding door closed on the A/V rack and the DVD storage rack closed.












Cheers,

JJ


----------



## rsprance




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Glimmie* /forum/post/12642238
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Latest pic taken today. For more details look at my WEB site. The power amps on the WEB site however are old. The new system is all tube.


----------



## Chuck1906

Those slide out racks I see posted on here, about how far out from the wall do they slide? I guess I need to consider in getting longer cables/wires to accomodate this purpose. As I think about it, other than speaker wires being longer, I may not need all my cables to be longer. I am thinking the surge protector that everything is plugged into might need to be long since it will be stretched when you pull the rack out but everything else would be in a vertical set up.


----------



## Raystream

For those that have slide out racks... what are the reasons that you bought them?


Also, for those that have built your own racks using rails in the front... what did you use for the sides, top and bottom?? 3/4" plywood?


----------



## Dark_Wizard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Raystream* /forum/post/12818408
> 
> 
> For those that have slide out racks... what are the reasons that you bought them?



I bought mine for the simple reason that I cannot get easy access to the back of my equipment to hook up wires and such...my rack is built into a wall with virtually no access behind it.


----------



## Chuck1906

Ditto What Dark Wizard said. Where my rack is going to go in the room there is no access to get behind it so I would need to slide the whole thing out or get shelves that slide out.


----------



## bigrock66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/10752746
> 
> 
> Splotto,
> 
> 
> I like the custom MA face plates. They are a little expensive but you end up with a nice clean look. I will say that the quality control leaves a little to be desired on newer components but as products have been on the market for a while they tighten or adjust the laser cut. For instance, I ordered an Outlaw 7125, 7 channel amp when they first came out and the first faceplate I received didn't account for the rubber feet so it didn't fit, eventually they got it right. I also pre-ordered a Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD player and the faceplate I received was not cut properly to account for the front control panel door to swing open. My solution was to remove the door. The two triad sub amp faceplates are a little bit off also. My advice would be to wait until a product has been on the market for at least 6 months before purchasing custom face plates from MA.
> 
> 
> For more main stream a/v and entertainment components like Xbox, Xbox 360, PS2 they fit and look great.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how the PS3 would fit into a rack mount though. I originally looked at getting one but with the curved design and side ports I didn't think it would be that functional in the rack.
> 
> 
> I've bought all my Middle Atlantic custom rack mounted shelves from Chris at StayOnline.com. They've been very responsive each time I purchased and took care of the most of the problems I had. I went with them based on recommendations from others here on AVS.
> 
> 
> Contact info:
> 
> Chris Knout
> 
> Rack/Premise Wiring Sales Mgr. www.Stayonline.com
> 
> 8121 Brownleigh Drive
> 
> Raleigh, NC
> 
> 27617
> 
> Fax: 919-510-5466
> 
> Phone: 1-888-346-4688 ext:118
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> BillMac



BillMac,


This web site is great! Not only can I order from Canada, but I can order all my custom faceplates on-line. What I great tool! I've been looking everywhere for a web site like this. Your help has been invaluable. I can't thank you enough!


Splotto, I also tried your web site and they are very competitive. They don't ship to Canada though. The RSH ordering tool in not developed like the one that BillMac recommended.


BR


----------



## bmackrell

Bigrock,


That's actually a new feature on their website. I just tried it myself the other day and it worked out fine. Before that feature was available I would just look up the item on the MA site and order them from Chris.


One update to my quoted comment above was that the fit of the custom faceplates wasn't that great on my Triad subwoofer amps. It turns out that triad used to use the same amp chassis on all three of their subamps but have switched to different sized units. I reordered the correct faceplates and they are perfect.


BillMac


----------



## bigrock66

Billmac,


I'm pretty pumped about getting this rack. I talked to a local MA rep and they were quoting me almost 50% more... Now I get my cake AND get to eat it!


BR


----------



## calv1n

Just a heads up for the Canadian people thinking of ordering MA from the US. Don't bother wasting your time. That is what I did and the order was held in Vancover for weeks until I bought it at the inflated Canadian prices from a local Canadian dealer. It was that or they were shipping it back so save yourself and the US vendors the head ache and just get it locally if your still interested. You'll pay more but you'll at least get the darn thing in a timely fashion with out any regional dispute hassle ( I hope anyways). In my case the US vendor had to refund my $$ and I had to rebuy everything at about 20% more from a dealer in Calgary. I'm sure the vendor in the US got his hand slapped as well I don't know all the details.


So as to not derail the thread to much here a couple shots of my rack in place.

 

 





Cheers

Calvin


----------



## jjcritch

I feel for you my Canadian bretheren. I live just across the border, but have no issues. Damn customs!




But here is tha latest on my rack!:

If you have been tuned into this thread since the begining, you saw it in its early form but now....



I give you *The Rack*


















Yep there it is. In all its glory. I have added the Silverstone 7" touch screen PC case which will house the home automation server running ElkRM and possibly the HomeSeer Vista MCE plug-in.


At the bottom you will see the APC H15. This is a great power conditioner. The best there is in its class. I have gotten a 30' shielded powercord and run it through the conduit to the projector on the ceiling so the new Epson Pro UB can be run off the conditioner. With the projector and everything in the rack except the PC's powered by the APC, it is still only at 11% load!


I did have to do some of my own custom work to the MA faceplate for the touchscreen Silverstone. I built a jig and used my Porter-Cable router with a 1/4" aluminium bit to trim 5mm out across the top of the opening. It came out almost perfect.


You will notice I have also mounted the 19" Samsung LCD in front of the lower right part of the rack using a Sanus mount. It worked out perfect. I also added a Middle Atlantic pull-out drawer for the keyboard and mouse. Its comming along nicely. But I still have some room... maybe a PS3...?


----------



## RPNYC

Hi,


I would be curious to know the rack depth people are using. It would also be great to know if you wished you would have used a different depth and why.


I've been trying to decide if I should go 20" or 26" in depth so your feedback would be most helpful.


Thanks!


----------



## LexiconLogan

mine


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LexiconLogan* /forum/post/12859105
> 
> 
> mine



Simple yet elegant, very nice!!


----------



## nosdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlllava* /forum/post/12643354
> 
> 
> This rack does was designed as built-in shelves vs. the more common metal rack. Since it was built into a recess in the wall, the rack pulls out and rotates to access wiring.



Where did you buy the hardware for the rack cabinet that gives you the pull-out, rotate function.


Thx


----------



## Choots

Jjcritch,


Which Sanus mount are you using? And how are you feeding video sources to this monitor in the rack? I see two pcs inthe rack along with the XBOX360 (and of course the main video source out of the AVR), and I'm assuming you are splitting/matrixing signals and routing them to this monitor? If so, can you describe that a little more?


I have my equipment rack in a different room than the home theatre, so sometimes working with the HTPC and the NAS server doing troubleshooting or debugging requires me to have a monitor in the rack, and route both PCs video out to this in addition to the main screen. I have a dual output video card on the HTPC, but only a cheap card on my NAS box, so I have been switching the vga cable to the monitor by hand when I need to do this...needless to say, ugh.


I've been thinking of incorporating a KVM and a VGA splitter, to help with this. Any thoughts?


----------



## tlllava




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nosdude* /forum/post/12874571
> 
> 
> Where did you buy the hardware for the rack cabinet that gives you the pull-out, rotate function.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx



I go the rack from Rockler on the link below. The equipment rack is recessed into a bump-out in the foundation under the fireplace. While I'm glad the electronics have a built in look, I wish that I had a closet or unfinished area adjacent to the theater. The rack works great but still isn't as convenient as walking behind the stuff.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11184 


Some have asked about dimensions. The rack is 18" deep and must be mounted in a cabinet 24" deep for the wires. The clearance when you rotate it is fine but the picture on the web site only shows a couple of wires hooked up. You can guess what a real install looks like.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lava* /forum/post/12880682
> 
> 
> I wish that I had a closet or unfinished area adjacent to the theater. The rack works great but still isn't as convenient as walking behind the stuff.



I would agree, access to the back of the rack makes changes very easy and convenient. I'm amassed at how often I make changes or upgrade equipment.


----------



## Luke_Y

Anyone using a SRSR Series in a modified base cabinet or custom cabinet similar to a base cabinet?


As opposed to a situation where the space was purpose built for a rack. More so making the rack work in the space given. Got a pic and some info? Would love to see it as thats what I am thinking of.


----------



## Onewolf

Here's the rack I built for my AV system. It was originally designed and dimensioned to fit in the linen closet behind the family room of my previous house but I really like it's functionality so I continue to use it in the theater room of the new house. It was designed to be as open as possible for maximum heat dissipation. The middle 4 shelves slide in/out on ball bearing rollers for easier access. It has heavy duty casters on the bottom so the whole rack can be pulled out for total access to the rear cabling. It's 12 years old now and still going strong even with the two 85 lbs Sherbourne amps weighing it down!


----------



## Chuck1906

Just wondering if anyone has heard of or seen these racks. They look pretty nice...


http://www.thetwistergroup.com/produ...%20D30186.html


----------



## Driving_Hamster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *auburnu008* /forum/post/12445107



What did you make your shelves out of? I am about 1/2 way done with a built in wooded rack that is very similar to yours. I am in debate as to which is the best material for the shelves. Thinking either 1/2 birch plywood (with edge molding) or laminated pine. Thoughts? I'd really like to get my Onkyo TX-SR805 (60 pounds) up out of the range of my two year old







.


----------



## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Choots* /forum/post/12875449
> 
> 
> Jjcritch,
> 
> 
> Which Sanus mount are you using? And how are you feeding video sources to this monitor in the rack? I see two pcs inthe rack along with the XBOX360 (and of course the main video source out of the AVR), and I'm assuming you are splitting/matrixing signals and routing them to this monitor? If so, can you describe that a little more?
> 
> 
> I have my equipment rack in a different room than the home theatre, so sometimes working with the HTPC and the NAS server doing troubleshooting or debugging requires me to have a monitor in the rack, and route both PCs video out to this in addition to the main screen. I have a dual output video card on the HTPC, but only a cheap card on my NAS box, so I have been switching the vga cable to the monitor by hand when I need to do this...needless to say, ugh.
> 
> 
> I've been thinking of incorporating a KVM and a VGA splitter, to help with this. Any thoughts?




The mount is a Sanus VS3 


Sorry for the delay in the response. I was out of town and then I was working on my home automation stuff, then I was tweaking the new projector and getting ready for the Superbowl party (check my HT build link below.) Anyway...


The way I have my video set up is like this: Pioneer VSX-82TXS has 3 HDMI ins and one out. It also has a component out and some standard composite and S-video as well. I have the Comcast cable box going into the reciever by HDMI. I have the home automation PC (the touchscreen PC) running in using S-video. My main PC goes in the reciever by HDMI. Xbox is component.


The Pinoneer supports multi-room display. It works like this. Any signal form in can be displayed out the HDMI. For a secondary output to another display (component), it can either be cloned or you can switch to passthrough so component will come out component,

What I do is, my projector is supplied by HDMI and the monitor by the rack is supplied by comonent. That way I can have TV on the projcector then passthrough xbox so it is on the monitor.


Basically you have two options. Get a good video switching Reciever like the Pioneer. Then you will have cloned outputs. One you can use for local rack display, the other for the home theater. Also what you could do it, get a touchscreen PC like I have and put a TV tuner in it and be able to monitor everything through the PC.


----------



## jeffG70

Here's my rack. Not that nice the wife's is much better. I'm still in the planning stage of the new theater and left much at our old house 3 years ago. Just getting back into it. I suppose I'll be putting new things in this rack soon.


----------



## ginigma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffG70* /forum/post/13084378
> 
> 
> Here's my rack. Not that nice the wife's is much better. I'm still in the planning stage of the new theater and left much at our old house 3 years ago. Just getting back into it. I suppose I'll be putting new things in this rack soon.



Damn! I hope she doesn't read AVS for your sake!


----------



## jeffG70

She would take it as a compliment for sure! I think only ONE person in a household should be spending all their time reading the forums at AVS. If there is one thing for certain it's there isn't a clear cut answer to ANYTHING, from screens, projectors, HTPC, the software to run on them, settings on the software, the hardware, and on and on and on..........................................


----------



## Geoff

I will tiddy up the wires when I get a chance.

cheers


----------



## mccabem

The rack in the McCabe Family Theater.


----------



## YW84U

Another Canuck Rack










DIY rack and DIY RSH-style faceplates:





















Total cost ~$90 to $100


More on the construction of said rack in this thread, from this post and a few down (if you're curious







)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13046275


----------



## kezug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *YW84U* /forum/post/13132449
> 
> 
> Another Canuck Rack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIY rack and DIY RSH-style faceplates:
> 
> 
> Total cost ~$90 to $100
> 
> 
> More on the construction of said rack in this thread, from this post and a few down (if you're curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13046275



About how many hours would you say it took you to make those faceplates?


BTW, very nice!


----------



## JBLsound4645

Some very inspiring racks 19 professional racks here.


I plan to install a Samson rack or something like rack framing that I can screw to the timbre and then assemble the audio equipment that has less transformer humming and keep the amplifiers racked up in different room, the bedroom which only needs a hole drilled in the lower part of the skirting board to pass nearly 300 feet of loudspeaker cable though it, yes that's a bundle.


So there is only one rack in the professional world and a lot of them in this thread that looked wonderful indeed I truly mean that. Empire has a fine rack system in the booth that will have most drooling over for a couple of days, me I haven't stopped drooling for nearly 18 years now.


I took these pictures at the Empire Leicester square cinema last year on Thursday July 26th 2007.






































Has for mine, at the present time, this will all get racked up nice and tiredly as soon as I can afford to buy a few Samson SRK21 which is only £84.99 at digital village UK.











Plus I have a few more Alesis RA300 and RA500 and more DCX2496 and some new DEQ2496 from digital village UK


----------



## HTScotty

Here's one more for ya...

Still need to paint my blank panels black...


----------



## YW84U




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kezug* /forum/post/13133053
> 
> 
> About how many hours would you say it took you to make those faceplates?
> 
> 
> BTW, very nice!



Tx!


All told, probably about ~ 1hr each with paint dry....maybe 6 or 7 hours over a couple of weekends? I could have done them faster, but I was 'puttering' and being fussy over fit and finish though










Cheers,


----------



## Chuck1906

Is there a right or wrong way to stack your rack? I am guessing the heaviest component should go on the bottom like the tuner. I hear the PS3 puts out a lot of heat so I am wondering if that needs to be near the top of the rack closer to the fans.


thanks!


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/13168304
> 
> 
> Is there a right or wrong way to stack your rack? I am guessing the heaviest component should go on the bottom like the tuner. I hear the PS3 puts out a lot of heat so I am wondering if that needs to be near the top of the rack closer to the fans.



Middle Atlantic has some good heat management info on their site:

http://repnet.middleatlantic.com/COM...ent%203-04.pdf


----------



## JBLsound4645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *strange_brew* /forum/post/13168470
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic has some good info on their site:
> 
> http://repnet.middleatlantic.com/COM...ent%203-04.pdf



I've heard it all costs an arm and leg for Middle Atlantic racks.


A few years back, some 10 years almost now there was this bank that had closed down and they where tossing lots of chairs tables you name it, into the skip and what the heck did I see in one room a nice ole professional rack with glass front door and key and lock. I asked the guy to hold it for one day and when me and my dad went around the next day to get more tables for the school so *BUGGER* had taken it, little *BUGGER*! Can't trust NO *BUGGER* today!!


Trust no *BUGGER* Mr. Mulder!


----------



## aham23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/13168304
> 
> 
> Is there a right or wrong way to stack your rack? I am guessing the heaviest component should go on the bottom like the tuner. I hear the PS3 puts out a lot of heat so I am wondering if that needs to be near the top of the rack closer to the fans.
> 
> 
> thanks!



i was just thinking about equipment placement in the rack. not so much due to heat, but is there a typical protocall?


i designed my rack so the top two shelves are bigger/taller. i figured i would put the larger AVR and Belkin PF60 power conditioner up top. then my two DVD players.


i think for me i will put the AVR on top then the PF60. it just seems like the AVR should be first.


later.


----------



## rmcveigh

For those of you who used rack rails, what'd you do on the rear of your space? How'd you do any cable management, and how stable was your equipment? I had originally thought that doing rails would be best for my situation, but I can get a slim5 into my space and not be concerned about the rear of the rack and stabiliy, and I get cable management there. I'm curious what you all think,


-Ryan


----------



## GPowers

My rack is a combination of parts, The front of the rack is a Chatsworth open relay rack, the back is two rails and lacing bars are Middle Atlantic , The shelfs and patch panels are from Gruber.


So it comes down too what ever works for you. Most of the parts are interchangeable.


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmcveigh* /forum/post/13181166
> 
> 
> For those of you who used rack rails, what'd you do on the rear of your space? How'd you do any cable management, and how stable was your equipment? I had originally thought that doing rails would be best for my situation, but I can get a slim5 into my space and not be concerned about the rear of the rack and stabiliy, and I get cable management there. I'm curious what you all think,
> 
> 
> -Ryan



Mine is two rails only. Right now the wires are all slop. I am going to try to neaten it up over the coming days before the house has an open house (March 1). My plan is to cleat/tie against the wall, then feed them to the rack as organized as possible. I'll throw pics up.


For stability - its been no problem at all. I would guess I have about 100 lbs of gear all on rack ears or on shelves screwed in the front only. If you are adding really beefy amps, it might be an issue. I have 3 crown amps that are about 25 lbs each.


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/13181689
> 
> 
> My rack is a combination of parts, The front of the rack is a Chatsworth open relay rack, the back is two rails and lacing bars are Middle Atlantic , The shelfs and patch panels are from Gruber.
> 
> 
> So it comes down too what ever works for you. Most of the parts are interchangeable.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/13182011
> 
> 
> Mine is two rails only. Right now the wires are all slop. I am going to try to neaten it up over the coming days before the house has an open house (March 1). My plan is to cleat/tie against the wall, then feed them to the rack as organized as possible. I'll throw pics up.
> 
> 
> For stability - its been no problem at all. I would guess I have about 100 lbs of gear all on rack ears or on shelves screwed in the front only. If you are adding really beefy amps, it might be an issue. I have 3 crown amps that are about 25 lbs each.



That's good info guys. I guess I wasn't sure how you'd use rear rails, but it sounds like you can just go with any old set of rear rails that attach to your shelves and the like. Is that right? I suppose you would need a shelf or otherwise at the top and bottom to ensure there's something to connect the rear rails to. That would probably cost less than the slim-5 in total.


My equipment list is fairly reasonable and not that heavy: Denon AVR3808Ci, DVD player (tbd), XBox 360, Motorola HD-DVR Cable Box, Belkin PF60 power conditioner and a buttkicker amp.


I do like the idea of getting things neat behind the rack for my own sanity. I still need to figure out the exact parts I want to do some real comparison.


-Ryan


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmcveigh* /forum/post/13182076
> 
> 
> I suppose you would need a shelf or otherwise at the top and bottom to ensure there's something to connect the rear rails to. That would probably cost less than the slim-5 in total.
> 
> 
> -



Ryan


The rear rails are bolted to the wall and do not touch the floor or ceiling, The front relay rack is also bolted to the walls on both sides, the base sits on the floor.


Here is a photo:











Just below the patch panel, on the right you can see a small spacer between the rail and the wall.











On this photo you ca see the top of the right rail.


----------



## Chademt85




----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/13184112
> 
> 
> Ryan
> 
> The rear rails are bolted to the wall and do not touch the floor or ceiling, The front relay rack is also bolted to the walls on both sides, the base sits on the floor.



Got it. My equipment space is a small closet with the rough opening for the rack on the theater side and a safe-n-sound door on the back side (which is my furnace room.) The rack wouldn't be close to the closet walls - or at least not close enough to secure rear rails to the wall. I think this is helping me understand that if I really want something on the rear (and I do, for cable management at minimum), that pursuing something like the slim-5 is the way to go. I can take and post a picture later today if it will help confirm all this.


Thanks for all the insight,


-Ryan


----------



## Splotto

Hello:


I have been running my HT room with my rack in a closet with no rear access (see pic).


I thought that having wheels on it would make it easier to move.


However, I am getting a little tired of having to move it around and I am really wanting a setup where I can have access to the rear of the rack without moving it. I am just not sure how to accomplish it with my room.


I would welcome any suggestions.


Splotto


----------



## aham23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chademt85* /forum/post/13184394



that is some serious shelf space. what is your plan? later.


----------



## Tedd

Splotto, do the side panels come off that rack? You could hinge one side panel and move the rack off to one end of the closet then frame it in with a wood surround to fill the gaps in. Then add a closet door to still open side of the existing closet. Should be a neat and tidy solution with access to wiring. You'd need to give some consideration to ventilation of the redone av closet, possibly a MA fan rack at the top of the rack itself, where the power conditioner currently sits.


----------



## chinadog

So I've posted my rack before, but thought I'd show what it looked like in Racktools. Great planning tool that can be found here:

http://www.racktools.com/ 


Here is the comparison of planned versus actual (should have used Autostitch to show the complete rack, but my demo expired and its blanks below the shelf anyway:











Bud


----------



## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/13197717
> 
> 
> Splotto, do the side panels come off that rack? You could hinge one side panel and move the rack off to one end of the closet then frame it in with a wood surround to fill the gaps in. Then add a closet door to still open side of the existing closet. Should be a neat and tidy solution with access to wiring. You'd need to give some consideration to ventilation of the redone av closet, possibly a MA fan rack at the top of the rack itself, where the power conditioner currently sits.



Hello:


The side panels don't come off. So the only way for me to have rear access is to set the rack 90 degress from where it is now and either break through from the other closet or from the room behind the seats.


I already have the fan unit on the top. However I need to put a vent in the closet space since hot air is accumulating in there.


A few months after I bought this rack I noticed that MA has a pivoting rack that I think might be perfect for me.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/wall/sr.htm 


This would allow me to mount the rear of the rack to the wall and pivot the rack out as needed.


In the end I might just buy that one.


Splotto


----------



## MichaelCarey

Here is my home made in-wall rack. It was of the "Hey, lets cut open the drywall and see what we can fit in there!" type of projects. I ended up with two 26u racks, much better than the drywall that was there before! (-:

It's made from 25mm MDF with the center section made from two 25mm sheets laminated together. I had to remove a wall stud to fit it in so the rack had to be strong enough to support the remaining wall and ceiling. At the moment cooling is by convection only, there are vents at the bottom and at the top and cold air is drawn in from the HT and warm air is expelled out the top. This isn't a perfect situation, and since getting a new Integra DTR-8.8 AV receiver that runs VERY hot, I have had to re-think the convection idea and will be adding some active cooling solutions, with the hot air vented into the office at the back of the HT which is also air-conditioned.

Access to the back of the rack is via my office and when the back is on, it's totally light-tight. Excuse the dusty equipment in the pictures, I usually get all the equipment out every 12 months for cleaning... this must at the 11 1/2 month mark!


Michael.


----------



## fst96se




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geoff* /forum/post/13085557
> 
> 
> I will tiddy up the wires when I get a chance.
> 
> cheers



I hope you have the game consoles set up differently for day to day use. The way you have it placed is a quick way to kill a PS3 and an XBOX 360.


----------



## snowkarver

Hey, I _finally_ finished something that I could post in one of the "Show me" threads!







Everything about my build is small - it has to be when your room is 8' wide and 6 1/2' tall. In keeping with this theme, my DIY rack is ultra-tiny and ultra-minimalist:




















PureAV PF60 power conditioner, SciAtl 8300HD PVR, dual Airport Express routers for iTunes, the empty shelf is waiting for a Playstation 3, and my beloved NAD T562 transport and T762 AVR. Shelves are on pilasters, adjustable by the half inch. Convection cooling vents and no heat problems so far, but I might add an exhaust fan or two soon.


----------



## jjcritch

This weekend I finally finished the rack. I will however have to replace the Xbox HD DVD player with a PS3 given the result of the format war. So there is still work to be done on it.


Check out the moulding work:


















Next I need to do some cable managment around back. I have the velcro, now I just need the motivation...


----------



## Chuck1906

I have taken to the liking of this Omnimount RSF 30 Shelf Rack System (link below). I have done extensive online searching for a similiar rack/shelving unit that looks similiar to this one but for a better price. I am most likely going to go ahead and get it but I was wondering if there are others out there that I may have overlooked. The good thing about this rack is that it comes with the shelves and the caster wheels. Unlike MA where you would have purchase every individual item.

http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/pr...urrentId=4.5.1


----------



## trooper1968

jjcritch - nice set-up, what are you using for the LCD monitor?


----------



## Splotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/13299894
> 
> 
> I have taken to the liking of this Omnimount RSF 30 Shelf Rack System (link below). I have done extensive online searching for a similiar rack/shelving unit that looks similiar to this one but for a better price. I am most likely going to go ahead and get it but I was wondering if there are others out there that I may have overlooked. The good thing about this rack is that it comes with the shelves and the caster wheels. Unlike MA where you would have purchase every individual item.
> 
> http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/pr...urrentId=4.5.1



Hello:


Looks fine. My only concern would be the availability of accessories and parts.


MA Stuff is everywhere.


Otherwise the rack looks good.


Splotto


----------



## Chuck1906

Yea well i contacted Omnimount for that very reason and they said I could add up to 2 more shelves, a top and sides if I wanted to enclose it. I guess the back would still be open though. I saw it in person at the local TWEETER store the other day and it looks very nice and sturdy. The thing I don't understand with MA products is that you have to basically build everything from scratch which may result in a higher cost. But I do like their products too!


----------



## pdjmwj

Does anyone know if Middle Atlantic accessories like shelves be used with the OmniMount RSF stands?


----------



## strange_brew

Just finished the front of my rack off.




















Equipment (from top):


Motorola DCT-6416III

Motorola DCT-6416III

Panasonic BDP30

XBox 360

Pioneer VSX-49TXi Receiver (Family Room)

Onkyo PR-SC885P Pre-amp (Theater)

B&K Components Reference 200.7 Amp

Control4 Multi-tuner

Control4 Multi-Channel Amp

Belkin PF60


----------



## scottyb

strange,


How did you get it so neat??(the back that is)


scott


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottyb* /forum/post/13380218
> 
> 
> strange,
> 
> 
> How did you get it so neat??(the back that is)
> 
> 
> scott



The key thing is to make sure you have your components in their final position so you can terminate the wires to length. Then I took ALL the wiring out of the rack. I put the speaker wire in first (yellow and green wires). That took care of the bulk of it. Then I did the Cat5 and anything else coming "into" the rack from somewhere else (e.g., HDMI / Comp from PJ and Family Room Plasma). Last thing was the interconnects between the components already in the rack. And they just kind of fell into place by routing where the rest of the wires were already running. Power cords I ran down the sides and to the PF60 at the bottom.


Its pretty time consuming though - took me an entire day.


----------



## bigDvette

What I've found is that it is time consuming but fairly easy to keep everything tidy when you are just dealing with Audio, Video and game consoles.


Where it gets very hard is when you throw in a HTPC or home controller PC with a bunch of USB periphrials, a NAS box, your router, you have everthing ( 2 Tivos, HTPC, XBOX, XBOX360, Blueray / HDDVD player) plugged in to the internet and some kind of multi room video switching and distribution equipment.


you have more than quadrupled the number of cables, some of which you don't make yourself. I think the key is for things to be laid out well. I have all my power (lot of cables given all the other stuff in the rack like modulators, slingbox ...) on 1 side of the rack and signal cables on the other, with a bunch of stuff down the middle that won't fit on the sides.


It just takes time. i've redone mine about 4 times now because I am a tinkerer and constantly replace stuff. My pics are in here somewhere.


However, Strange's cable management is very good.


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigDvette* /forum/post/13380783
> 
> 
> Where it gets very hard is when you throw in a HTPC or home controller PC with a bunch of USB periphrials, a NAS box, your router, you have everthing ( 2 Tivos, HTPC, XBOX, XBOX360, Blueray / HDDVD player) plugged in to the internet and some kind of multi room video switching and distribution equipment.



Yeah, definitely. What you don't see in this picture is the relay rack to the right of my main gear that houses all of that stuff you mentioned. I'm just working my way through that right now. I bought some 24 port rackmount keystone blanks to use for interconnecting a lot of that stuff. But its going to be more challenging, no question.


----------



## Chuck1906

So Strange_Brew,


Are you running an outlet strip behind your rack somewhere? I was just curious how long some of your power cables were for example for the component at the very top of the rack. I agree that careful planning will yield greater results. I just bought a rack (picking it up tomorrow) and I can't wait to get it here so I can finish ordering the rest of my cables. As for the outlet strip, I am going to look into mounting it to the rear of the rack since it will be on casters so I can pull it out from the wall. I couldn't see how you had all your power cables routed in your pics. But I liked the attention to detail in your layout and rack wiring plan!


----------



## calv1n

Craig,


Fantastic job on the wiring on the rack... sadly it just reminded me that I have to do that one day to mine (I wouldn't show pictures of mine publicly yet







, Heck I'm considering paying Connect AV to spend the day doing it for me at $60/hour ). Right now I have an advanced tactic called "closing the door behind the rack and turning off the light"....its been working pretty good so far










Terrific job with the entire HT the rack is just more of the same










Cheers

Calvin


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chuck1906* /forum/post/13382415
> 
> 
> So Strange_Brew,
> 
> 
> Are you running an outlet strip behind your rack somewhere? I was just curious how long some of your power cables were for example for the component at the very top of the rack. I agree that careful planning will yield greater results. I just bought a rack (picking it up tomorrow) and I can't wait to get it here so I can finish ordering the rest of my cables. As for the outlet strip, I am going to look into mounting it to the rear of the rack since it will be on casters so I can pull it out from the wall. I couldn't see how you had all your power cables routed in your pics. But I liked the attention to detail in your layout and rack wiring plan!



I have a Belkin PF60 at the bottom of my rack, so all the power cables are terminated there. I ran the cables down the sides (forward of the yellow and green wires in the pic) of the rack. I did that to keep them away from the A/V interconnects. They can't be seen unless you shine a flashlight into the back of the rack - then you can see them running down either side. I didn't have a problem with length getting to the PF60 for the uppermost components (Motorola DCT-6416's).


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calv1n* /forum/post/13382567
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> Fantastic job on the wiring on the rack... sadly it just reminded me that I have to do that one day to mine (I wouldn't show pictures of mine publicly yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Heck I'm considering paying Connect AV to spend the day doing it for me at $60/hour ). Right now I have an advanced tactic called "closing the door behind the rack and turning off the light"....its been working pretty good so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Terrific job with the entire HT the rack is just more of the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Calvin



C'mon, bite the bullet and spend a day cleaning it up. Very cathartic experience


----------



## ComputerCowboy

I purchased this rack on ebay today for cheap.

I am going to get it on tomorrow morning










I think I will probably paint it black. I looked at the Slim 5 rack by MA a lot but when it came down to it I wanted more space and a rack that doesn't use pre tapped holes. I like the square hole / cage nut concept. Furthermore I want to put 4 4U computers in the mix as well as network equipment and a preamp with 4 stereo power amps. All together I calculated that I want to put 60U worth of equipment into the rack. This rack gives me 86U total.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/9485798



Art I do not think I have ever seen a photo of the back of your equipment rack. Does such a photo exist?


----------



## GPowers

PS. here is an updated photo of the back of my rack:











The last photo was two or three years old. A lot has changes since then. The biggest change was HDMI and Blu-ray.


----------



## Art Sonneborn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *strange_brew* /forum/post/13379090
> 
> 
> Just finished the front of my rack off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Equipment (from top):
> 
> 
> Motorola DCT-6416III
> 
> Motorola DCT-6416III
> 
> Panasonic BDP30
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> Pioneer VSX-49TXi Receiver (Family Room)
> 
> Onkyo PR-SC885P Pre-amp (Theater)
> 
> B&K Components Reference 200.7 Amp
> 
> Control4 Multi-tuner
> 
> Control4 Multi-Channel Amp
> 
> Belkin PF60



Just gorgeous neat work !!!!!!!!!!!! I'm assuming these are all custom terminations.


Art


----------



## GPowers

That was fast but it is not your rack.


----------



## snooprob

My rack built into an IKIA cabinet. On castors so you can roll it out and get to the back. It's attached to the mini-bar outside the theater.


----------



## Avatar8481

That looks nice snooprob. Are there real rails in there too, or did you use the Ikea shelving...it looks like real rack parts. What's the Ikea product name ('Racken'...'Shelven', something like that?)


----------



## snooprob

Avatar8481


Thanks, and you should do names for IKEA, I think you have a knack for it! I don't recall the actual model but the link below sure looks similar. I did put normal rack rails inside, but they did not allow me 19" between them when installed... So I had to cut off about 1/2" on each side removing all the pre-threaded holes. Not ideal but I am very happy with the stability, accessability and looks. The price was tough to beat.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S79811860


----------



## whiskey alpha

Sanus Systems


----------



## snooprob

Who would have thought we would have two Outlaw 990's back-back! Nice rack, did you build it yourself? I built one a while ago out of 3/4" steel and MDF shelves which worked out real nice. Other than dusting was a total pain on the MDF surfaces. Looks nice!


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/13611023
> 
> 
> Just gorgeous neat work !!!!!!!!!!!! I'm assuming these are all custom terminations.
> 
> 
> Art



Thanks Art! Mostly custom terminations, yes. Except for the HDMI of course.


By the way, how do you control your system? RF/IR?


----------



## whiskey alpha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snooprob* /forum/post/13616142
> 
> 
> Who would have thought we would have two Outlaw 990's back-back! Nice rack, did you build it yourself? I built one a while ago out of 3/4" steel and MDF shelves which worked out real nice. Other than dusting was a total pain on the MDF surfaces. Looks nice!




Nope it's an old sanus systems cf55. All the shelves are individually spiked. It is the most solid rack I have ever owned. Strange about the two Outlaw 990's in a row


----------



## pierrebnh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerCowboy* /forum/post/13597830
> 
> 
> I purchased this rack on ebay today for cheap.
> 
> I am going to get it on tomorrow morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will probably paint it black. I looked at the Slim 5 rack by MA a lot but when it came down to it I wanted more space and a rack that doesn't use pre tapped holes. I like the square hole / cage nut concept. Furthermore I want to put 4 4U computers in the mix as well as network equipment and a preamp with 4 stereo power amps. All together I calculated that I want to put 60U worth of equipment into the rack. This rack gives me 86U total.



Wow, old school Compaq racks...love it, lol!


----------



## indygreg

i have done several racks in two houses and always try to find a way to have the back of the rack open into another space that i can get to easily. in my current theater i just took the last 4' of the room and cut it off so that the rack took 20" and there was a couple feet behind it to stand. you get to that area by crawling through the opening under the counter. i also decided to put some of the components out on a countertop rather than rack them.



































greg


----------



## tlllava

indygreg,


Are you into equipment repair or sales? I see equipment with yellow tags on them and it looks like you may have a second TiVo series 1 on the floor there.


BTW: I love the built in's. Very nice work an also a creative way at getting behind rack.


-Tom


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pierrebnh* /forum/post/13626977
> 
> 
> Wow, old school Compaq racks...love it, lol!



Yes they are old school, but they sure are tough. They came with the brackets to gang them together which is nice. I think I will spray them black. These are solid racks and deep. I can literally climb up the front of them and they don't even begin to tip.


----------



## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerCowboy* /forum/post/13631955
> 
> 
> Yes they are old school, but they sure are tough. They came with the brackets to gang them together which is nice. I think I will spray them black. These are solid racks and deep. I can literally climb up the front of them and they don't even begin to tip.



They look great. Sturdy, I bet heavy too... Good protection for expensive equipment.


Do you think you will have any problems spraying them? Will you use the Middle Atlantic RSH powdercoat faceplates?


----------



## indygreg

Hi Tom. No i am not in the av business. i work for a computer company. the yellow "tags" are actually yellow electrical tape holding the ir emitters on. i didn't want to stick them until i had things final because some of them are dual emitters (2 on the same wire). i am now thinking about rearranging some of the locations of stuff to put in a game console so i guess it was a good call.


darned good eyes. that is a tivo in that pic. i just hadn't put it away yet.


greg


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlllava* /forum/post/13631861
> 
> 
> indygreg,
> 
> 
> Are you into equipment repair or sales? I see equipment with yellow tags on them and it looks like you may have a second TiVo series 1 on the floor there.
> 
> 
> BTW: I love the built in's. Very nice work an also a creative way at getting behind rack.
> 
> 
> -Tom


----------



## hdtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiskey alpha* /forum/post/13616045
> 
> 
> Sanus Systems



How wide is that closet? I am designing my theater now. Trying to decide about building an equipment room. I am limited on space and do not want to build it too big.


Thanks


----------



## whiskey alpha

The measurements are 10'2" in length and 39" wide. I planned it that way so I could squeeze behind the rack and still fit my DVD bookshelf in there as well.


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/13639420
> 
> 
> They look great. Sturdy, I bet heavy too... Good protection for expensive equipment.



Yes $500 for the pair, I am quite pleased. I like the included KB tray and the boatload of M6 cage nuts and screws that they left in there for me



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/13639420
> 
> 
> Do you think you will have any problems spraying them?



Don't know, I was thinking I might take them down to the local body shop and get a custom paint job. Now I am thinking I will load them up then decide what I want to do about final placement and painting. I have realized that I probably won't get it just how I want it the first time.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/13639420
> 
> 
> Will you use the Middle Atlantic RSH powdercoat faceplates?



Yes that is what I had in mind.


----------



## Tedd

I spray painted a 2 post computer rack for my av rack. (No amps going into the rack.) I gave it a good cleaning and wet sanded a few scratches out, then gave it multiple thin coats of black paint. It came out nice, but it won't be seen as I plan to build a hinged woodtrim frame to hide the bolts securing the av gear and shelves.


----------



## ComputerCowboy

I was all set to order some custom shelves for the PS3 and 360 + HDDVD and then I went to order the DVD storage thing and I find out they don't have the Powdercoat version only the Anodized Part.












I guess there is really no way that I am going to get all this stuff to match. So now I am wondering if the Anodized faceplates might look better.


Has anyone seen their Anodized parts? I know what powder coat looks like, that is pretty standard, but how does the Anodized brushed stuff look?


----------



## AccessHA

Their Anodized faceplates look beautiful, it’s what I always use.


----------



## jbinatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AccessHA* /forum/post/13684493
> 
> 
> Their Anodized faceplates look beautiful, it's what I always use.



+1


----------



## Art Sonneborn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *strange_brew* /forum/post/13617555
> 
> 
> Thanks Art! Mostly custom terminations, yes. Except for the HDMI of course.
> 
> 
> By the way, how do you control your system? RF/IR?



Just IR and a Phillips 7500 remote with various macros etc right now.


Art


----------



## Art Sonneborn




----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/13685893



Thanks Art, not what I expected. Although I know you just went through a major update to a new projector, speakers and screen.


----------



## BFauska

And now I finally see that Art's theater is actually real. Every other time I've seen pictures from Art, I've thought "No effin way that's a HOME theater, built by a normal guy" now I know, finally a picture of the "normal guy" aspect of Art's theater










Hopefully you don't need to troubleshoot that very often. I just pulled apart my setup to get ready to move, I have nowhere near that much equipment, and I still managed to make a rat's nest out of the wires.


----------



## Art Sonneborn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/13692909
> 
> 
> Thanks Art, not what I expected. Although I know you just went through a major update to a new projector, speakers and screen.



That's not my rack.







I just thought for balance that I should post that pic. That is the rack of a friend who's HT meet I recently attended.


I'll get some pics this weekend. It is somewhere between that and Mike Poindexter's.


Art


----------



## GPowers

I was trying to match the equipment between the front and back photos. They just did not match. The hardwre in the back picture on top was too big for your photo of the front of your rack.


But you still got us.


----------



## SatelliteGuy

Here is my rack so far.


----------



## scottyb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SatelliteGuy* /forum/post/13693207
> 
> 
> Here is my rack so far.



Was that done by a professional HT Install company? That looks fabulous!!


Scott


----------



## SPDSpappy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerCowboy* /forum/post/13680170
> 
> 
> I was all set to order some custom shelves for the PS3 and 360 + HDDVD and then I went to order the DVD storage thing and I find out they don't have the Powdercoat version only the Anodized Part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess there is really no way that I am going to get all this stuff to match. So now I am wondering if the Anodized faceplates might look better.
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen their Anodized parts? I know what powder coat looks like, that is pretty standard, but how does the Anodized brushed stuff look?



I just ordered the D4 Locking Drawer w/ DVDP insert. This holds 48 DVDs, but has the brushed face. I think this drawer is available in any of the finishes.


----------



## Steve Scherrer

After visiting Rastargate's Captina Han Solo thread, I am sadly disappointed by this thread. I expected more...


I mean, these aren't the "racks" I was hoping for.


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SPDSpappy* /forum/post/13694910
> 
> 
> I just ordered the D4 Locking Drawer w/ DVDP insert. This holds 48 DVDs, but has the brushed face. I think this drawer is available in any of the finishes.



Ok that sounds cool, now I don't know what to do. I ordered the brushed shelves for the 360+HDDVD, PS3 and my SA8300HD. As far as media storage goes I have now started to thinking about just buying a relay rack and filling that up with dvd storage compartments. Then again that would be an expesive solution compared to just buying some DVD rack separate. The drawer looks nice but I like the visibility of the DVD compartment I pictured above.


Anyway I ordered the shelves and cage nuts for four components. They are comming tomorrow.


PS I went with the black brushed finish based on the comments above.


----------



## pierrebnh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerCowboy* /forum/post/13631955
> 
> 
> Yes they are old school, but they sure are tough. They came with the brackets to gang them together which is nice. I think I will spray them black. These are solid racks and deep. I can literally climb up the front of them and they don't even begin to tip.



Lemme know if you need any parts for 'em. I think we still have a couple of those lying around.


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pierrebnh* /forum/post/13741113
> 
> 
> Lemme know if you need any parts for 'em. I think we still have a couple of those lying around.



What have you got? I'm interested. I could use some more of those screws that go into the non tapped holes like the ones that you use to gang them together.




I got 4 RSH faceplates today... they are nice.









The brushed ones are very delicate, they can scratch easily. If I did it again I would go powder coat, but they look nice.

They kindly shipped my 10/32 screws and cage nuts in a separate order that won't be here until tomorrow. O yeah, I got a 990 on ebay last night


----------



## Beech63

this is my current setup


----------



## ComputerCowboy

I have a component that takes up 1 and 1/3 U (four holes) Is there a blank panel that takes up 1/3 U or 2/3 available somewhere that I can buy. I find it really stupid that Impact acoustics made this thing a non standard size. I plan to fill my racks (43U each) top to bottom eventually and adding this component is going to leave a 1.16 inch gap in there somewhere.


This is the component


















Dimension: 13 ½” (L) X 7” (W) X 2 ¾” (H)


----------



## Tedd

File a filler panel down to size??


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/13766593
> 
> 
> File a filler panel down to size??



I have thought of that, I didn't want to have that much fun though. I kinda wanted to sit on my butt and click "buy now"


----------



## Tedd

Ok, let me try that again, then.


Buy a filler panel, take it to a metal shop and have them cut it to size, on a shear??


----------



## jayoldschool

Drop by your old high school. Any school shop can cut that for you, quick and free!


----------



## hellerbrewing

For those of you that use the vertical power strips; Does a power conditioner or UPS work effectively if you have everything running through one outlet?


----------



## chucky08016




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerCowboy* /forum/post/13766478
> 
> 
> I have a component that takes up 1 and 1/3 U (four holes) Is there a blank panel that takes up 1/3 U or 2/3 available somewhere that I can buy. I find it really stupid that Impact acoustics made this thing a non standard size. I plan to fill my racks (43U each) top to bottom eventually and adding this component is going to leave a 1.16 inch gap in there somewhere.
> 
> 
> This is the component
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimension: 13 ½ (L) X 7 (W) X 2 ¾ (H)



You can call Middle Atlantic and see if the have a custom fit 2U rack shelf for your unit. If they don't, they can make one for you.


----------



## Sokoloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/13893352
> 
> 
> For those of you that use the vertical power strips; Does a power conditioner or UPS work effectively if you have everything running through one outlet?



Yeah; it works just fine. It *may* not provide as much isolation of equipment, but every APC UPS that I've opened up just has everything electrically tied together internally anyway, making it electrically identical (*) whether you use a power strip or wire directly to the UPS. And naturally, the first is tidier and easier generally.


* - Within 0.01% to appease the electrical enginerds among us...


----------



## Kevin_Wadsworth

Here's another rack picture for the thread. I gratuitously lifted the idea of allthread and MDF from someone on this forum. I'm sorry that I don't remember who it was to give credit.


One tip I found - spinning nuts down 6' pices of allthread takes forever by hand, but a car buffer on a cordless dril makes the job abotu 20x faster.


The front looks pretty nice, although the PS3 USB cord was hanging down in this picture:










The back could use some cable management:


----------



## ComputerCowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chucky08016* /forum/post/13894150
> 
> 
> You can call Middle Atlantic and see if the have a custom fit 2U rack shelf for your unit. If they don't, they can make one for you.



Yea I think I am going to get a custom cut blanking panel in the next order.

I am ordering a few custom cut things next time around.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin_Wadsworth* /forum/post/13899208
> 
> 
> The front looks pretty nice, although the PS3 USB cord was hanging down in this picture:



I got myself one of these









http://www.amazon.com/Playstation-3-...1217207&sr=8-3 



I love this unit because I don't need a mess of cables coming out of the front of the rack. I got the OEM MS quick charger for the 360 batteries also.


In my opinion the controllers don't need to be anywhere near the rack anyway, the rack is tucked away and the controllers are out by the couch.


----------



## okron




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin_Wadsworth* /forum/post/13899208
> 
> 
> Here's another rack picture for the thread. I gratuitously lifted the idea of allthread and MDF from someone on this forum. I'm sorry that I don't remember who it was to give credit.
> 
> 
> One tip I found - spinning nuts down 6' pices of allthread takes forever by hand, but a car buffer on a cordless dril makes the job abotu 20x faster.
> 
> 
> The front looks pretty nice, although the PS3 USB cord was hanging down in this picture:



Kevin

That's along the lines I'm thinking....what are your dimensions and what size all-thread did you use?


Ron


----------



## Kevin_Wadsworth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *okron* /forum/post/13900423
> 
> 
> Kevin
> 
> That's along the lines I'm thinking....what are your dimensions and what size all-thread did you use?
> 
> 
> Ron



The shelves are 22" wide and 24" deep. 22" wide fits through the 24" door and easily gives the 19" necessary fro most components between the allthread.


I used 3/4" allthread for strength/stability. It's pretty solid, but could use something attaching it to the wall so that it doesn't sway and misalign the projector when bumped. (Projector got moved during DirecTV installation - elsewhise it's been fine.)


You can find the allthread on mcmaster.com under part number 98910a036, adn the bolts under part number 90490A436.


----------



## Driving_Hamster

Finally got mine done for the most part. Still need to do some cable management around back. Borrowed (..cough.. stole) the idea for the rack from YW84U.




















Made the face plates out of sheets of stainless steel that I got from Home Depot. Used a textured metal spray paint from Rustoleum. The plates feel like they were powder coated. The plates are not perfect but it will do for now.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Ok, I just got my MA 5-37 (still in the box). I am planning on framing it into the wall. For the time being I am going to leave the front open but I would like to leave open the option of installing the MA plexiglass door or a custom door that I make myself. I am just wondering, did the rest of you that framed them in make the rack flush with the sheetrock or is it set back a little bit? Should I frame the 2X4s directly to the rack and sheetrock right up to the rails or should I put a 1x4 inside the 2X4 and make it flush with the sheetrock in order to have something to mount a door to down the road?


----------



## percept




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Driving_Hamster* /forum/post/13904897
> 
> 
> Made the face plates out of sheets of stainless steel that I got from Home Depot. Used a textured metal spray paint from Rustoleum. The plates feel like they were powder coated. The plates are not perfect but it will do for now.



thanks for pointing out that the plates are available at HD. I was worried id have to go looking for a sheet metal shop. rack looks great, btw.


----------



## Driving_Hamster

HD has a couple different sizes but I bought the 12 inch by 24 inch and them cut them down to size. Had to go to a couple HD's to get enough of them though.


----------



## cadeucsb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/13970619
> 
> 
> Ok, I just got my MA 5-37 (still in the box). I am planning on framing it into the wall. For the time being I am going to leave the front open but I would like to leave open the option of installing the MA plexiglass door or a custom door that I make myself. I am just wondering, did the rest of you that framed them in make the rack flush with the sheetrock or is it set back a little bit? Should I frame the 2X4s directly to the rack and sheetrock right up to the rails or should I put a 1x4 inside the 2X4 and make it flush with the sheetrock in order to have something to mount a door to down the road?



Finish it how you want...I am assuming that is a slim 5. The door mounts to the front of the rack and adds 0 physical width/height to the rack. Call them up and they will email you the installation for the door and you will see.


I had the same issue as my builder is doing my basement along with the house and I cant install the rack/door until the house is completely done (sheetrock, trim, etc). So I called MA to be sure I could feed the contractors exact instructions so the Slim5 pdf specs along with the door install guide will get you what you want. PM me if you need any info or the guides.


edit, here is a quick pic of the guide for reference:


----------



## spyd4r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/13184112



Can I ask where you ordered that patch panel plate? that is an awesome way to organize the speaker cables.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spyd4r* /forum/post/13992738
> 
> 
> Can I ask where you ordered that patch panel plate? that is an awesome way to organize the speaker cables.



The un-populated panel was ordered from Gruber. You can find them here:

http://www.gruber.com/ 


They have a store on that big auction site call e somthing bay.


Here is a more recent photo of the patch panel, more connections. The nice thing is you can mix and match the connection. any standard Keystone type jack works.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Wow, that is pretty cool. I hadn't noticed that before in the other pics. One question though... I am assuming that you are also using the Gruber keystone speaker jacks. On the rear side it looks like the speaker wire feeds through the back and out the sides. Do they come with caps that screw down over the wire?


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/13997658
> 
> 
> Wow, that is pretty cool. I hadn't noticed that before in the other pics. One question though... I am assuming that you are also using the Gruber keystone speaker jacks. On the rear side it looks like the speaker wire feeds through the back and out the sides. Do they come with caps that screw down over the wire?



The jumper cables between the Sound Processor and the patch panel are monster QuickLock Gold Banana Connectors.











The keystone jack were purchased from smarthome and have a set screw connection on the back. The jack are avaiable with red or black stripes. These were purchased several years ago, today I would check out the ones that Monoprice has.


----------



## Raymond Leggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stef2* /forum/post/9501117
> 
> 
> Living 15 minutes away from Montreal, I can assure you the above comment is barely exaggerated...



I usually don't like BUSTY women but I'd make an exception for those two.


----------



## Raymond Leggs

I hate it when women try to hide their racks.


----------



## ICLKennyG

I just googled for rack pictures - not a good idea.


----------



## Don_Kellogg

So far I have not been able to get a really good shot of my equipment rack. Probably have to do a panoramic do to the angle. Some of these are before I completed the theater.

*Current Equipment*:
Mid Atlantic 8 Port Rack Power
QSC DSP-30
2 QSC RMX 2450 Amps
2 QSC RMX 1450 Amps
Onkyo 885 Pre/Pro
Panasonic BD30 Blu-Ray Player
Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD Player
Microsoft XBox 360 Elite
2 Mid Atlantic 4U Drawers with DVD Media spacers
Various 3U & 4U Brushed AL Filler Plates

*Here are some pictures:*










*I've cleaned it up a bit, but I need to clean it up before Art comes over







, don't want to get Ron'ed*


----------



## sgmorton

Not fully stocked or even finished out yet but you'll get the idea...


----------



## hoyty











This is a Mid-Atlantic SRSR-X mounted in the wall with a plywood box surrounding. It has a Samsung BD-UP5000, Xbox 360, Onkyo TX-SR705 and HR10-250.


----------



## smashpwnage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geoff* /forum/post/13085557
> 
> 
> I will tiddy up the wires when I get a chance.
> 
> cheers



wow! no RROD on the 360 yet?


----------



## hellerbrewing

Anyone ever seen a Wii mounted with the custom faceplate? I'm not familiar enough with the Wii to have a good handle on how it would work in a rack. The wife wants to get one and I saw that MA makes a custome shelf for it.


^^BTW, I have a 360 that I bought the week they came out. No RROD for me although the DVD drive is getting noisy and has trouble closing on its own now. I was hoping something would crap out on it before my BB warranty expired but no dice.


----------



## David F

OK, getting ready to get going on the basement home theater. I want to do an in-wall MA rack, but I'm unsure if I need to buy a Slim 5 cabinet or just the rack rails. As long as the rails are properly fastened to 2x4s to hold the weight of the RSH shelves, do I need the entire cabinet? I used the RackTools program to do it both ways. I'm going to order at Stayonline.com and there's about a $200 difference between the two.


Thanks!


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David F* /forum/post/14216280
> 
> 
> ... but I'm unsure if I need to buy a Slim 5 cabinet or just the rack rails. ..!



My rack is a recycled relay rack in front and MA rails in back. It is behind fabric frames so you only see it when it is open.


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David F* /forum/post/14216280
> 
> 
> I'm unsure if I need to buy a Slim 5 cabinet or just the rack rails. As long as the rails are properly fastened to 2x4s to hold the weight of the RSH shelves, do I need the entire cabinet?



The main issue with just using rails and studs is that you need to get the distance between them _exactly_ right. The hole centers need to be 18.3 inches apart and the official spec allows for less than 1/32 inch of leeway.


It took me three attempts to get my rails spaced to a usable distance, and they're still 1/16-1/8 too far apart even after fine-tuning with rubber washers. Most components do have wide mounting holes and can handle the screw positions being a bit off, but the placement of those wide holes is not always the same. All of the MA parts I've tried have fit, but for example I've got a piece of rackmount gear from Kramer and it's a no-go (luckily it doesn't need to be directly accessible, so it can go in a "real" freestanding rack that's behind the wall -- but even there it's a tight fit). BTW better to be too far than too close, because when the rails are too close some component bodies won't fit between them.


So if you just do studs and rails be prepared to have to futz with it to get it right, and whatever you do make sure you don't put the studs too close together. It's probably a lot easier to shim the rails closer than to move the studs apart. Oh and if your studs aren't perfectly parallel you'll have to deal with that, too.


----------



## David F

Hmmm. Good thoughts. Sounds like it will be easier to simply get the Slim 5 and be done with it.


----------



## GPowers

To get the spacing, between the rails, correct mount a blank spacer plate on the top, mid-section and bottom of the rails. This creates a type of ladder but gives you the correct spacing. Now fit the rail ladder into your opening and use spacers (i used different thickness of plywood) and shims to get a snug fit. Then bolt the rails through the spacers, shims, drywall etc. to the studs.


----------



## Samaritano




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoyty* /forum/post/14133715
> 
> 
> This is a Mid-Atlantic SRSR-X mounted in the wall with a plywood box surrounding. It has a Samsung BD-UP5000, Xbox 360, Onkyo TX-SR705 and HR10-250.



Hoyty.

Who did you order it from?


----------



## SPDSpappy

Well, I've been re-miss in posting a picture of my rack here, even though I've been watching this thread for months and decided to go w/ my setup based on one of the racks in the first page or two... I'm very happy w/ how it turned out:










As soon as I buy a BD player, I'll have to re-adjust some things. This is the 43U Slim 5 MA rack (about 6 1/2' tall). I've also been debating on adding another drawer of DVD storage...


----------



## aaronlinkous

^^ although im not sure on the models, that yamaha having the door on the front, and that being a higher end denon dvd player, there should IR ports on the back so you dont have to have them hanging out the front like that.


----------



## Staffy

Spappy - did you paint the rack screws black or buy them? If you bought them, can you let me know where at?


----------



## jjcritch

My rack is back in shape with the new PS3 and U-verse box and their respective faceplates.












The screws are black square drive from Middle Atlantic. Found them at Performanceaudio.com


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Staffy* /forum/post/14307521
> 
> 
> Spappy - did you paint the rack screws black or buy them? If you bought them, can you let me know where at?



I picked up a jar of 500 phillips MA screws (black) on ebay, but I know they sell them at partsexpress.


No one has seen any pics of a Wii with the custom faceplate?


----------



## SPDSpappy

I bought all my rack stuff from performance audio (Zach) and as jjcritch mentioned, they're MA screws. I'll have to check on the IR ports. I was just so excited about getting everything in so I could test it out, I just hooked it up. I hadn't even thought about the possibility that there could be some IR on the back...


----------



## SPDSpappy

Here's a picture of the back:









No direct IR in the back of the Yamaha RXV-1800, but there is those ports marked "Remote." I'm unable to get to the online manual for some reason to find out exactly what those are & how they work, but will when I get home. Now to check on the Denon DVD player...


----------



## jongig

I sure have enjoyed looking at what each person has done with the "rack" and I have my own challenges. I have a new home that my system will have to go into next month. The builder never really understood what I needed and I did not have the time to look into this so I asked him to build me a closet in the great room to the right wall of the viewing area. It a large closet at 36 inches wide by a bit more than 24 inches deep. I will also have access from behind the closet through a access pannel from another closet.


I just don't quite know what to do and it would be great to see a install but I don't know anyone and I don't know what type of rack system to buy and install. I can further frame and have a fairly good skill set with regards to carpentry but I just would like to find the best rack sytem and know what the standards are and where to find the best selection and price.


In the picture you can see the rack from my previous home and what is missing is my Pass Labs amp which is huge weighing in at 150 pounds. I will place the amp in between the speakers at the front of the room below the screen. It's a nice looking amp and makes for a nice center piece, sounds good too. In the second picture is the unfinished closet in the new home.


thanks.


John


----------



## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/14315600
> 
> 
> I sure have enjoyed looking at what each person has done with the "rack" and I have my own challenges. I have a new home that my system will have to go into next month. The builder never really understood what I needed and I did not have the time to look into this so I asked him to build me a closet in the great room to the right wall of the viewing area. It a large closet at 36 inches wide by a bit more than 24 inches deep. I will also have access from behind the closet through a access pannel from another closet.
> 
> 
> I just don't quite know what to do and it would be great to see a install but I don't know anyone and I don't know what type of rack system to buy and install... John




If you will have rear access to the space, you could use a Middle atlantic Slim 5 rack. This is what I used. Check out my assebly post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post10659662


----------



## jjcritch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/14316890
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing me to your thread. It looks like the rack is maybe my best bet and I like the trim. Did you do any research on where the best place to purchase was and is there any difference in the racks? I am a bit concerned that if I decide to put in my Pass Labs amp the rack will be small. The Pass Labs amp is about 20" wide and and 25" deep. I have not decided but I may not like it on the floor because I have a 8 year old that will be able to use the room. I notice you have a girl, does she help with hammering everything?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> john



Yep, she does indeed help daddy whenever she can, for better or for worse.


As for your amp, a standard rack is 19" so you are going to have an issue. If you use a short Slim 5 like I did, you can mount it off the ground and build a separate shelf underneath for the amp. Probably would look real nice.


I have gotten all my Middle Atlantic stuff from PerformanceAudio.com but you should check here http://www.avscience.com/products.htm . Mark or one of the guys can help you out.


----------



## jongig

I am looking at the Slim 5 Rack and if you could tell me if two of my amps would fit in the rack. The bigger one is 19 inches wide by 20 inches deep and 11 inches high, not including the handles and terminals on the rear. The handles and terminals would have no bearing on the shelf I think.


Between the two amps and some of the other equipment this space will also generate a lot of heat. The enclosure in the wall is already built and is 24" deep and 36" wide. Kind of wish I had made it wider so as to house a double unit but I think I should be able to get all that I have into one tall unit.


I've looked and the best place I've fount is smarthome.com. Has anyone found a good and reasonably priced place to purchase this equipment?


Thanks,

john


----------



## hellerbrewing

I bought my slim 5 at partsexpress.com. May not be the cheapest place but they are reasonable.


----------



## jongig

Can a amp that is 19 inches wide by 20 inches deep fit in the Slim 5 rack?


Thanks,

john


----------



## hellerbrewing

Depends, if it is exactly 19 inches it won't. Inside dimensions are probably about 18 7/8. If you are a little bit less than that you will be fine but you'd probably want to get the 26 inch deep one so you can slide it in the side and scoot it up. You'd probably also need one of those shelves that attach to the side holes and not the front. You will also have to deal with the front rails covering up part of your amp.


Dimensions for the slim-5 racks can be found here .


Edit: I take that back, with the Zero space shelf you only get 18.5 inches usable space.


----------



## jongig

I ordered the shelf you mentioned and I had wondered if the shelf would work upside down, just a thought. The amp is in fact exactly 19 inches wide. We'll see and if it doesn't fit I might try to make a space under the rack for the amp. I have a rack system at work that has my computer equipment in it and for the heck of it I measured the rack from the inside and I think it was about 17.5 inches and so I just figured the rack was different but now I think maybe these are all the same and the 19 inches is actually the inside or the very outside of the rack. I did look at the drawing and I understand drawings very well but I never found the 18 and 7/8" measurement. Mine at the office is not steel but alluminum and a wall unit, quite nice.


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/14339781
> 
> 
> I have a rack system at work that has my computer equipment in it and for the heck of it I measured the rack from the inside and I think it was about 17.5 inches and so I just figured the rack was different but now I think maybe these are all the same and the 19 inches is actually the inside or the very outside of the rack.



The "about 17.5" measurement would be the width of the opening between the rails, or the typical usable width of shelves that are mounted to the front of the rails. The "19" measurement normally refers to the total width of the mounting flanges of shelves or other rackmount equipment.


I suspect your idea of mounting the zero-space shelf upside-down will work, and since the slim-5 doesn't have side panels you can just set the amp back far enough that its sides can stick out between the rails. Alternatively you could mount the shelf normally and use rubber feet to lift the amp high enough to clear the sides of the shelf (since it's only 1.5 inches high). The downside, if this rack will be in a visible location, is that the amp won't be able to sit flush with the front of the rack. There's not much you can do about that if the amp is fully 19 inches wide.


----------



## jongig

Attached is a picture of the Pass amp in the rack. I added 4, 1/16" washers to the front rails of the racks where the rails attach to the base and so the rack is just a bit more than 19 inches and the pass amp just fits. I can't really see a down side to what I did except that I have to pull the rack out of the closet and remove a front rail just to slide the amp out.


I am wondering what I can do about the space above the Pass amp and how I can get a spacer. I have several and all fit a certain way but I need one that is more than one space but not quite two. I was unable to find odd size spacers.


I did find that Middle Atlantic sells face plates for all of my equipment in the rack except the Pass of course, very neat idea and I can't wait to try them.


john


----------



## fst96se

Hey guys, what rack do I have? I just picked this one up used for a song. It is a middle atlantic, and it looks like it is a 24u useable rack. That doesn't include what is about 1u of space on the top and bottom.


The bottom has recessed casters, which is kind of cool.


I am trying to figure out what it is. Looks like a Slim5, but I haven't seen it in a 24ux19x19 configuration. Overal height is about 46".


Help me out! I need to know to figure out if I can fit all the gear I want to in it. Here is a picture of the shelving it will be replacing. The shelving (outside measurements) is 48x19.5, so it will be a perfect replacement size wise!


----------



## Dan C OSG




kezug said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swifty7* /forum/post/10527924
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every time I review this thread for rack ideas, I cant help but stop and stare at these racks. If I am not careful, I will be building boobies on my wall instead of a system rack!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one more time.
Click to expand...


----------



## ArtieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/14388850
> 
> 
> Hey guys, what rack do I have? I just picked this one up used for a song. It is a middle atlantic, and it looks like it is a 24u useable rack. That doesn't include what is about 1u of space on the top and bottom.
> 
> 
> The bottom has recessed casters, which is kind of cool.
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure out what it is. Looks like a Slim5, but I haven't seen it in a 24ux19x19 configuration. Overal height is about 46".
> 
> 
> Help me out! I need to know to figure out if I can fit all the gear I want to in it. Here is a picture of the shelving it will be replacing. The shelving (outside measurements) is 48x19.5, so it will be a perfect replacement size wise!



Where did you get those groovy signs next to your rack? Are they custom-made?


----------



## fst96se




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ArtieR* /forum/post/14411283
> 
> 
> Where did you get those groovy signs next to your rack? Are they custom-made?



These are custom, but there is a guy on ebay that sells almost identical signs. A friend made them for me.


----------



## Vincehoffman

I guess I ought to preface this rack design post by stating: _Although I currently enjoy my music played back multi-channel style and the same "Big Rig" performs cinema duties, *I'm still very much a hair shirt wearing, "everything-makes-a-difference" audio dweeb.*_ My current predominantly digital signal path and the mostly Meridian gear which play host to it does seem _less_ affected by audiophile tweaks than the tube two-channel gear I once owned. However, I still find attention to S/PDIF cabling, power conditioning, and mechanical vibration isolation all make audibly positive differences. The mix of audio and video in my present Big Rig with video's competing formats requires much more extensive racking. I am happy with some of my gear support elements. The custom Corian sand-box "shelves" and Black Diamond Racing isolation cones and pucks all work brilliantly. However, the row of low welded Target tables under the very heavy "sand box" isolation shelves leave something to be desired in rigidity, but also in effective use of space and aesthetics.











These complaints with my existing racking have driven my interest in finding something better. Unfortunately even the tweak-iest high end "audiophile approved" rack manufacturers failed to address all my requirements. In this case my decision to go DIY was totally about function rather than saving money. My steadily refined rack design was far beyond my DIY skills, but owning a high-end bicycle shop provides access to craftsmen with the abilities and tools to realize my vision. Thus this is more of a _*D*esign_ *I*t *Y*ourself rather than a Do It Yourself project. My actual build thread progress can be found here on the CAM Forum . For this post I'll stick to a Coles Notes version of the build.





























The above renderings and drawings are the original rack concept and despite some last minute material changes are still a pretty accurate representation of how the finished product will look. The plan was to build the rack frame from powder coat finished high strength thin-wall steel tubing. The frame would use 3" square for the main posts and a combination of 1"x2" and 1" square for the framework. The all the smaller diameter tubing will be filled with low expansion foam to damp the steel's tendency to ring while the 4 main posts are filled almost to their open tops with sand. A BDR (Black Diamond Racing) isolation Puck "floats" atop each sand-filled pillar and provides a footer for the BDR cones which interface with the corners of the 6' wide upper shelf. The long upper shelf was originally to have been CNC milled from a 3" thick lamination of ApplePly. The milled plywood shelf would have been reinforced with a pair of inset 2" cro-mo "angle iron" stiffening ribs running almost the entire length of the shelf. This would have ensure adequate stiffness under load. The top shelf features 3 milled out wells, each to be partially filled with sand which would then float a Corian slab which in turn the component would rest upon. All the individual lower shelves are Corian sandboxes as well. Each of the six lower sandbox shelves rests on 3 point levelling set screws inset into the frame. By this point you've worked out that I'm a fan of "BrightStar"-style sand filled isolation!


Over time the design evolved some. Ultimately I chose to go with brushed thin-wall stainless steel for the frame. A gifted local custom bicycle frame builder, Hugh at True North Cycles , has almost completed the frame with just the final finishing work left to go. Below are pictures of the almost completed rack with close-ups of some of the detail work. Other than the material and finish change, the rack frame remained true to the original design.






































The top shelf was a tricky proposition from the start. Aesthetically I was stuck on it being a single long span which under the weight of the shelf, sand, and components- had the potential to create rigidity problems. Well Gerry of Apex Composites, the only nearby CNC house with the a large enough mill, suggested that rather than a steel reinforced plywood shelf, we should make it from carbon composites. A shelf made from carbon wrapped structural foam would be a fraction of the wooden shelf's weight- sub-10 pounds vs 100 pounds! A composite shelf could be stiffer. Finally the composite construct of bonded foam, uni-direct carbon, and woven carbon with a "dress layer" lamination would be self damping. The three matching "floating" isolation shelves would also be made from structural foam and carbon. Well what wasn't to like with that! Yeah it drove the price up significantly but its only money. Full speed ahead! Below are the CNC-ready CAD drawings for the top and floating shelves.




















Summer holidays have hampered the progress of my shelf somewhat as its a side project for Gerry at Apex but we are getting there. Two slabs of dense structural foam were laminated and then CNC milled to the desired shape. Lengthwise recesses were milled top and bottom to accommodate layers of unidirectional carbon which provides the strength stiffness. Then the entire thing was sheathed in regular woven carbon and "Peel-Ply", which when removed leaves a rough finish carbon which doesn't require sanding for subsequent laminations. Below are bottom view photos of the shelf. You can clearly see the underlaying strips of unidirectional carbon in the photos but it will be invisible upon completion.




















At this point we performed a deflection test on the shelf. We supported the shelf on BDR cones and pucks at the outside corners and then distributed a 230 pound load of Olympic weight plates over the component sand wells. A dial micrometer device measured just over 1mm of deflection under that load. The in-house engineer at Apex had predicted under 1mm for 180 pounds so he was dead on. Wow at the moment the shelf weighs about 7 pounds! So with the core construction and testing complete, I'm now in hurry-up-and-wait mode for the shelf and three matching isolation slabs to be finished.


I'll update this post with further pictures upon the rack's completion later this Summer.


Happy Trails!
[email protected]


----------



## Brent A

I have a question about spacing. I currently have a Denon AVR3300 and I have the shelf above mounted so that there is about 3" of free space above the reciever. I went with 3" because it it in an enclosed cabinet with very little ventilation at all.


I'm thinking about going with a Slim 5 setup and will be replacing my AVR3300 with an AVR3808CI. I'm wondering how close I can mount the upper shelf to the top of the receiver.

It will be in a dedicated equipment closet with the front facing out into the room. The back and sides will be completely open so ventilation won't be an issue like it is now. Do you think 1-1/2" of space will be an issue or is that too close?


Thanks,

Brent


----------



## akakillroy

Mine is not fancy but it was very inexpensive








Attachment 118184 
Attachment 118185 
Attachment 118186


----------



## viator50

My first project.


----------



## jongig

@viator50. Very nice rack and I'm in the process of doing the same thing. I have the rack all laid out and designed but the house is not quite done yet. What is behind and what did you do for air movement? I have some experience with rack systems and the one thing I hate is the dust that accumulates on the equipment over time. I purchased a rack blower with an integrated filter but it’s way too loud so that won’t work. I am considering some sort of blower from the room behind using a low noise blower and incorporating a washable filter into it. Maybe two blowers with one at about 50 CFM that runs all the time and one at 100 CFM that turns on when the amps and prepro turn on. I have seen some very quiet blowers that you can hardly hear. I thought this way I’d have air moving out of the front of the unit and so less dust in all of those nice vertical slats just like on yours.


john


----------



## viator50

John,


Thanks for the kind words. I am a little reluctant to put up pictures of the back of the rack. I was so excited about being 99.99999999999% finished that I quickly hooked up everything and never looked back. The rack was built into a wall with access from a hallway that I had built under the stairs with a mini (3 1/2') door. I left the access to the furnace room open for air movement. I have zero heat build up so far. As far as dust build up, I have not seen much at all. I did scrub down the entire furnace room before hooking everything up.


Bill


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viator50* /forum/post/14717779
> 
> 
> My first project.



Nice to finally see a wii with the custom faceplate. What is that below it?


----------



## viator50

hellerbrewing,


It's a VuDu. Very Cool piece. I love the GUI and it is easy to use. I actually pulled the Pioneer BDP-95 out in exchange for it.


Wii is actually pretty fun to play.


Bill


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viator50* /forum/post/14718398
> 
> 
> Wii is actually pretty fun to play.



Yeah, I am planning on putting mine in the rack when I finally get it done. I like to use the game cube controllers with it. I am wondering if the wavebird wireless receivers will fit with it on the shelf and how good of reception it will get.


----------



## BlaXXXima

Crappy pics - my camera's LCD doesn't work any more, so I am lucky to get any control over the shot











I'll take some more pics soon when all the gear is in, and I've got the walls repainted (putting the screen up didn't help them any).



Equipment Rack:






















Shelves are on slides to allow for cable access:






















The projector shelf (holds a UPS as well):


----------



## TechFire007

Maybe this is so straightforward but what do you use to grab the wires like that so neatly, ties?


----------



## al4

Before re-wire:
  


After re-wire:
  


Front:
  


Furman PL-8 Series II Power Conditioner

Oppo DV-980H DVD Player

SONY PlayStation 3 (PS3) 80GB

TiVo HD (for OTA)

DirecTV HD DVR HR21-200

Harman Kardon AVR-247


----------



## redjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/9496393
> 
> 
> If you have to ask, you couldn't afford the annual maintenance fees.



More than nipples and dimes.


----------



## ttby58b

Rack for the newly completed theater. Just waiting on the BDP-S550.


----------



## govschmo

jjcritch, How is your lcd monitor attached to the rack?

Thanks.


----------



## ifor




----------



## whiskey alpha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ifor* /forum/post/14745904



HOLY CRAP!!!- I am impressed!!!


----------



## redjr

^ That is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.


----------



## scottyb

How do you get the wires so organized. Is there a special product to use.

That looks fabulous.


Scott


----------



## javadoc

That is a thing of beauty. Maybe I'm naive for AV, but what are people using all of the cat5/cat6 for?


----------



## ifor

The cat5 and Crestnet are used for control of the house music in various rooms throughout the house. Most of the data cables in the rack are Crestnet cable for Crestron control.


It is very easy to lace the racks using lacing bars and velcro. The velcro allows one to redo the cabling with out using zipties or tape. Tape usually leaves a residue which is sticky.


----------



## KrisS

Those are Middle Atlantic lacer bars with velcro tie wraps. I am not sure which tie wraps they are, but they do not appear to be MA.
http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...blem.htm#lbars


----------



## Dan C OSG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/9477226
> 
> 
> My Wife said she didn't want to look at equipment.



From an Ex Builder/carpenter and now an AV salesperson...


BEAUTIFUL WORK!


----------



## hellerbrewing

Ok, I am getting ready to start outfitting my rack and I have always thought that I would get the Monster 3600 from amazon because it came with the attachable rack ears and is usually a pretty good price on amazon. Then I was looking at the APC H15 and reading the manual to see if it came with rack ears. It says it does but it is not intended to support the weight of the unit and will need a shelf under it. Am I going to run into the same problem with the monster? I am going to do the custome shelves for my comonents and was thinking I would not need one for the monster but I see they make one for it so was my assumption was wrong?


----------



## ifor

The rack ears will support the weight of the unit.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Excellent! thanks


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ifor* /forum/post/14745904



The secret to this clean looking installation is:

1. Using lacing bars

2. Velcro and NOT plastic wire ties

3. Hiding the extra cable down the side of the rack.


Very nicely done!!!


----------



## taylor910




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/14773158
> 
> 
> The secret to this clean looking installation is:
> 
> 1. Using lacing bars
> *2. Velcro and NOT plastic wire ties*
> 
> 3. Hiding the extra cable down the side of the rack.
> 
> 
> Very nicely done!!!



Why not plastic zip ties? I literally just finished organizing my cables with zip ties, now I am grinding my teeth-


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *taylor910* /forum/post/14773190
> 
> 
> Why not plastic zip ties? I literally just finished organizing my cables with zip ties, now I am grinding my teeth-



With Velcro you can make changes and re-use the velcro ties. And it is quick, no cut hands and finger on the sharp ends where you cut off the end, unless you have a $50 tool the finish off the plactic wire ties.


The black velcro ties also look nicer and cleaner.


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *taylor910* /forum/post/14773190
> 
> 
> Why not plastic zip ties? I literally just finished organizing my cables with zip ties, now I am grinding my teeth-



Wow...the racks look excellent!


Holy Smoks! 26 lacing bars for these two racks?I'm not there yet, but I guess I'll need to buy stock in Velcro Industries and Graber. Those Velcro ties and lacing bars look great but aren't they rather expensive?


CJ


----------



## javadoc

Blaxx, are you using just a standard full extension drawer slide set up, like you'd find at Home Depot? Also, did you make that console? I'm asking b/c I am thinking of doing drawers like this, since I don't have access behind my rack area.


----------



## yamahaSHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *taylor910* /forum/post/14773190
> 
> 
> Why not plastic zip ties? I literally just finished organizing my cables with zip ties, now I am grinding my teeth-





It's personal preference... Don't listen to them.


----------



## usualsuspects

I find velcro to be annoying, I can't find what I want - a very quick release tie system that looks good, stays in place, and opens up in 1/2 second. Not to take anything away from others great cable organization systems, I'm just looking for something better than velcro. I have cut way too many zip ties off, went to velcro, what is the next evolution in ties?


----------



## ifor

Velco is cheap. We buy it in 10 foot lengths at 3/4 width and then cut them lengthwise to get 2, 10 foot lengths. Easy to re-use and redo the wiring.


Lacing bars aren't that expensive if you are looking for that extra clean look.


I see racks in magazines and have to shake my head sometimes. The install winds up to be $20,000 or more and install companies do not put in lacing bars that would have cost an extra $50-100.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usualsuspects* /forum/post/14773653
> 
> 
> I find velcro to be annoying, I can't find what I want - a very quick release tie system that looks good, stays in place, and opens up in 1/2 second.



I had the same complaints. I did not like the roll up Velcro ties (pictured in yellow) as the became too bulky when you rolled them around the wires. So I had some Velcro (we should say hook and loop) cinch straps made up that were small enough for home theater use. See the black strap in the photo.


Just like you said they are quick to put on and take off. Also the are easy to get tight because of the "D" ring.


----------



## usualsuspects

Ah ha! Just needed to google for velcro cinch, Thanks GPowers!


----------



## ifor

Keep in mind that you can cut the length of the velcro to match the diameter needed.


----------



## ifor

Sounds like I work for the Velcro industry!


----------



## GPowers

Only the yellow one in the photo can be cut to lenght. But I still do not like them.


The Cinch Straps that i used are purchased by the length. I used 5/8" by 6" and 5/8 by 8". I have used the 6" ones more the the 8" ones.


----------



## GPowers

Right now the company that i purchased the cinch straps from are running a special on the 5/8" x 6" for 70 cents with no minium order. When i ordered mine i paid $1.35 and had to order 100.


----------



## javadoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/14780749
> 
> 
> Right now the company that i purchased the cinch straps from are running a special on the 5/8" x 6" for 70 cents with no minium order. When i ordered mine i paid $1.35 and had to order 100.



Did I miss a link to the place you bought from? I should stock up now. Heck, it's on sale, so the price could go up. It's better than the stock market!


----------



## WakJob

It's a work in progress.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *javadoc* /forum/post/14781770
> 
> 
> Did I miss a link to the place you bought from? I should stock up now. Heck, it's on sale, so the price could go up. It's better than the stock market!




http://www.hookandloop.com/


----------



## javadoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/14784558
> 
> http://www.hookandloop.com/



Thank you, GP!


----------



## Speedskater

Look for Velcro Reusable Ties. 25 eight inch ties for maybe $5.00 at places like Home Depot.

#100415

bar code 75967-90927


----------



## fst96se




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speedskater* /forum/post/14788778
> 
> 
> Look for Velcro Reusable Ties. 25 eight inch ties for maybe $5.00 at places like Home Depot.
> 
> #100415
> 
> bar code 75967-90927



This isn't a Home Depot number...










Going to check my store and see what I come up with...


----------



## mwardncsu

I am very inspired by the clean and slick designs by many of you in this post, and wanting to duplicate that effect. I have a Slim5 rack and some Middle Atlantic custom shelves/faceplates on the way, and was wondering how everone is handing the attachment of IR emitters. Looking through the thread I see very few racks that have obvious IR emitters on the front. I don't want to spend the extra $$$s on the MA faceplates for that clean look and then mess it up with emitter wires running around the place.


Perhaps they are there and just well hidden - is the trick to run a single emitter to a given device and just route it under/over the device and through the bezel just below/above where it needs to attach, or are there other tricks to hide this as much as possible? Do I need to make a small mod to the faceplate to notch a bit of clearance for the IR emitter wire to come through the faceplate and the device?


thanks....


----------



## scottyb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwardncsu* /forum/post/14797169
> 
> 
> I am very inspired by the clean and slick designs by many of you in this post, and wanting to duplicate that effect. I have a Slim5 rack and some Middle Atlantic custom shelves/faceplates on the way, and was wondering how everone is handing the attachment of IR emitters. Looking through the thread I see very few racks that have obvious IR emitters on the front. I don't want to spend the extra $$$s on the MA faceplates for that clean look and then mess it up with emitter wires running around the place.
> 
> 
> Perhaps they are there and just well hidden - is the trick to run a single emitter to a given device and just route it under/over the device and through the bezel just below/above where it needs to attach, or are there other tricks to hide this as much as possible? Do I need to make a small mod to the faceplate to notch a bit of clearance for the IR emitter wire to come through the faceplate and the device?
> 
> 
> thanks....



I would recommend getting RF remote.


----------



## mwardncsu

but even with a RF remote I have to get IR into the components as the components do not receive RF... so I need flashers to the components. My AVR has an IR in which I am hoping can be used for general IR input and this takes care of one component, but several (most?) of the other components will not have this....


----------



## scottyb

The base unit can go in the rack and the flashers can come from under the equipment and not be seen at all except on the front of each unit.

That's how I have mine and it's a very clean look.

Sorry, no pics.


Scott


----------



## ifor

Depends on the equipment. Some have an ir input on the back of the gear.


Sometimes we pop off the front bezel to place the emitter inside the unit. Other gear has rs-232 for control.


----------



## usualsuspects




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwardncsu* /forum/post/14797169
> 
> 
> I have a Slim5 rack and some Middle Atlantic custom shelves/faceplates on the way, and was wondering how everone is handing the attachment of IR emitters.



You could get equipment that has IR input jacks and/or RS-232 on the back, and modify equipment that does not have this option and put the emitter inside the device. Another option is to get a "blaster" and point it at the rack. Both options have plus and minus to them.


----------



## GPowers

Hey, someday we will have universal HDMI CEC. Then there will be no need for ir emitters and all that extra wire.


One cable for video, audio, and control. But that has been in the works for years. HDMI is the last of many industry standards body to try an implement a control standard. Maybe some day we will see one.


----------



## fst96se




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usualsuspects* /forum/post/14798301
> 
> 
> You could get equipment that has IR input jacks and/or RS-232 on the back, and modify equipment that does not have this option and put the emitter inside the device. Another option is to get a "blaster" and point it at the rack. Both options have plus and minus to them.



Is there an adaptor where I can connect my IR emitter cable to an RS232 jack and control it that way, with my RF remote?


----------



## usualsuspects




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/14799725
> 
> 
> Is there an adaptor where I can connect my IR emitter cable to an RS232 jack and control it that way, with my RF remote?



Yes, there is at least one here: http://www.industrologic.com/ir2prod.htm 

I have never used this product, but it appears to do what you want - IR to RS-232. You might search around and see if there is a better/cheaper option out there.


----------



## ifor

 http://www.xantech.com/Controls/Cont...chers/IRS232A/


----------



## Speedskater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speedskater* /forum/post/14788778
> 
> 
> Look for Velcro Reusable Ties. 25 eight inch ties for maybe $5.00 at places like Home Depot.
> 
> #100415
> 
> bar code 75967-90927



Finding Velcro product information seems to be almost hopeless but try searching for:

100 count VEK91140

_50 count VEK90924


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speedskater* /forum/post/14803749
> 
> 
> Finding Velcro product information seems to be almost hopeless but try searching for:
> 
> 100 count VEK91140
> 
> _50 count VEK90924



The velcro ties you list above are just strips with a slot cut accross one end. They are hard to put on, hard to take off and not easy to get tight. The one I have found, that work best, are the ones with the "D" rings. Yes they are about twice the cost, but are much easet to use.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Where are people getting their custom middle atlantic faceplates/shelves these days. I was going to go with Lashen but they seem to be pricey. buyrackgear.com seems to be reasonable but I am not sure how reputable they are, has anyone ordered from them?


----------



## jluzbet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/14831923
> 
> 
> Where are people getting their custom middle atlantic faceplates these days. I was going to go with Lashen but they seem to be pricey. buyrackgear.com seems to be reasonable but I am not sure how reputable they are, has anyone ordered from them?



the few that I got I have purchased form StayOnline.com they also sell the faceplate only if needed.


----------



## mwardncsu

buyrackgear.com is a "division" of StayOnLine.com


I recently purchased a couple of custom rack shelves/faceplaces from ASIHome - good price (well, good is relative with these custom shelves







)


----------



## jongig

I purchased all of mine from stayonline.com and I'm happy with them. I have a extra pioneer 300 disk faceplate and shelf if anyone needs it.


john


----------



## hellerbrewing

Ok, thanks guys. I'll go with stayonline/buyrackgear. Prices seem to be good.


----------



## fst96se




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/14832804
> 
> 
> Ok, thanks guys. I'll go with stayonline/buyrackgear. Prices seem to be good.



I use performanceaudio.com, that is where I bought my SRSR rotating rack also. They are lighting quick with shipping and order fullfilment, and I think have the best prices.


My faces have been $60, free shipping, and the entire RSH shelf and face are $101 shipped.


BTW, I have a Marantz AV8003 face, a PS3w/Nyko Intercooler face, a Toshiba HD-XA1 face, LG BH200 face, Krell HomeTheaterStandard face, and several others that I have bought from them for sale.


If any of you guys need any of these mint faceplates, let me know!


----------



## jluzbet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/14836655
> 
> 
> I use performanceaudio.com, that is where I bought my SRSR rotating rack also. They are lighting quick with shipping and order fullfilment, and I think have the best prices.
> 
> 
> My faces have been $60, free shipping, and the entire RSH shelf and face are $101 shipped.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have a Marantz AV8003 face, a PS3w/Nyko Intercooler face, a Toshiba HD-XA1 face, LG BH200 face, Krell HomeTheaterStandard face, and several others that I have bought from them for sale.
> 
> 
> If any of you guys need any of these mint faceplates, let me know!



check pm


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/14836655
> 
> 
> I use performanceaudio.com, that is where I bought my SRSR rotating rack also. They are lighting quick with shipping and order fullfilment, and I think have the best prices.
> 
> 
> My faces have been $60, free shipping, and the entire RSH shelf and face are $101 shipped.



Awesome! Gotta love free shipping! Thanks for the info.


----------



## i dog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmj427* /forum/post/12737092
> 
> 
> I figured that I would throw a picture of my rack up there since it is 95% done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture with the sliding door closed on the A/V rack and the DVD storage rack closed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> JJ



nice setup, i love that pull-out strorage unit.


----------



## bigleechild

Are there MA racks specifically designed for HT? I have a guy trying to sell me a MRK4431 for $500. Is that a good deal if it's local? Thanks


BLC


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigleechild* /forum/post/14894087
> 
> 
> Are there MA racks specifically designed for HT?



Yes, for example the SRSR series is designed for cabinets and wall cavities with no rear access; the entire rack slides out on rails and then rotates so you can get to the back of the gear. The actual equipment mounting rails in terms of screws and hole spacing are the same as any other standard rack. They have a couple of other, similar model lines depending on the size, weight, and access requirements.



> Quote:
> I have a guy trying to sell me a MRK4431 for $500. Is that a good deal



A quick survey of online retailers suggests that that's a good price. One thing to bear in mind: that model is around 7 feet tall, over 31 inches deep, and floor-standing. Just be sure it fits with your room design/layout, and since it's apparently fully-welded you also need to be sure it will fit through the doors/hallways/stairwells to get to wherever you want to install it. BTW if room access is a problem, there are rack makers that use a bolt-together design that can be assembled in-place.


----------



## mwardncsu

Link to the AVS "headlines" for an article that has additional racks pics which provide inspiration....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post14958574


----------



## JessyMcK

In progress


----------



## jongig

Does anyone know the bolt size for the leveling feet of the slim, LF-ISO Isolation leveling feet - set of four?


----------



## mtbdudex

Basic custom built AV rack.

I used Home Depot 1" x 24" x 48" board's (cut in half) and adj shelf sides.

Pretty cheap, $20/board, $80 total, maybe $20 for the hardware. $100 total so far, with $30-$40 more I'll have 3 sliding shelfs, works for me.


Yea, my AV is a little deeper than most, but I had the room so why not.

Workability/access is very easy.


From HT side, this is on the front/RH side of the HT:









I am going to make sliding drawers for the bottom for storage.


Backside is open/accessable from rec room side, I will make doors for this soon...

Wires are semi-organized, until I'm sure that I like where things are I'm not too concerned about style points.

Soon on the rec/room side there will be cabinets/sink next to the AV backide, you can see the rough plumbing pipe for that.










Doors added 11-7-08, I've not said this in years and years:


"Open sesame"









"Close sesame"


----------



## mwardncsu

Thanks to all on this post for inspiration.....


A 37U Middle Atlantic Slim-5 - 26" deep, and brushed black aluminum custom faceplates / filler panels. Added two sets of 18U rack rails inset about 7" (upper half) and 10" (lower hald) that I did a little mod on to mount to the existing frame to save a few $$ and not have to pull the rack back out to add these. Used some Middle Atlantic lacing bars (straight & 6" offsets) along with the extra set of rack rails to keep everything tidy (or best I could). I custom terminated everything except for the HDMI & ToS cables.


















In a state of "semi-completeness" - waiting for Santa to bring the Xbox 360, making up my mind on a media streamer (Popcorn Hour?? - PM me with any suggestions?), probably another DirecTV HD Receiver, I'll eventually move a Wii into the rack and may mount a modified iPod rack mount from Raxxess (if I can get a Denon iPod doc into the mount), and to put the MA side trim strips on.


Currently in place (from top to bottom):


Front:

APC J15BLK UPS/Power Conditioner

Denon AVR3808-CI Audio/Video Receiver

Sony BDP-S350 BluRay Player

Denon DCM-290 5-disc CD changer

DirecTV HR22-100 HD DVR

AudioSource AMP102 (x2) for 2nd & 3rd zone audio


Back:

48 port Keystone patch panel + various keystone ports

NETGEAR JFS16 10/100 16 port Ethernet Switch (way more ports than I need, but it was rack mountable







)


----------



## T.Wells

Does anyone know how or where to buy vertical lace strips for the Middle Atlantic racks? The on-line stores only sell the 'dealer' packs which contain 6 vertical lace bars. Of course, I only have a single rack so two is all I need.


I am specifically looking for something like the LACE-37-OP. I could use the 40 or 44 as the bars are able to be cut down to size.


Thanks,

T.Wells


----------



## mwardncsu

would love to know the same - I spotted an on-line that has the lacer bars "al-la-carte" but did not see the vertical bars....


Maybe there is a "group buy" needed with a split out


----------



## hellerbrewing

Looks like markertek has them but they come in packs of six. I was looking at these but I just decided to go with a couple sets of the front to back lacer bars (LBFR-5A-20) and one set of the horizontal lacer bars (LBH-1930-T) to attach to them. This will give me attachment points to run bundles of cable down the side of the rack as well as strain releif for feeding my patch panels on the back of the rack and components on the front.


Like this:


----------



## jseese

Does anyone have any suggestions for a rack to mount in the middle of a wall? It doesn't need to be a floor standing model but would frame around it. I first was looking at this one ( http://cableorganizer.com/computer-c...k.htm#features ) but it mounts in the back which I could build a frame for it to support the back and the bottom but then want the MA custom faces, can you mix and match brands? or is there a better option.


It is a new construction wall with access to the back so I will access the equipment from the back and use custom faceplates for the front. It has to have space for a PS3, Denon reciver, Cable box, but would like to have some sports for expansion. I looked at the Middle Atlantic site but am not sure which model would suit my needs.


----------



## ChadhaT

Here are the two racks I have had....the three panel one (with green walls) has been built by neighbor contractor for our new house (it is a room behind my media room leading to a bathroom - turned the closet into a built-in) where we moved to a year ago, the two panel one with the "red" walls is one from our older house that my b-in-law had built.


Tarun


----------



## koach

Mine was a very expensive, very custom solution:











Yes folks, that's one 2"x10" board painted black.


----------



## javadoc

I like it.


----------



## smokinghot

Is wire access/management difficult...?


Otherwise...I love the look of it


----------



## mwardncsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/14981889
> 
> 
> Looks like markertek has them but they come in packs of six. I was looking at these but I just decided to go with a couple sets of the front to back lacer bars (LBFR-5A-20) and one set of the horizontal lacer bars (LBH-1930-T) to attach to them. This will give me attachment points to run bundles of cable down the side of the rack as well as strain releif for feeding my patch panels on the back of the rack and components on the front.



Do these "front to back" lacer bars attach from the inside of the rack, or do you have to have access to the "outside" of the rack-rails? I've already got my rack mounted in the wall and getting access to the outside of the front rail pair would be a real pain (I'd basically have to remove everything, unbolt it and pull it out - I have full access to the back, so if these can be secured from the inside of the rack then it would be perfect for what I need right now for cable mounting...


thx...


----------



## mwardncsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jseese* /forum/post/14985595
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a rack to mount in the middle of a wall? It doesn't need to be a floor standing model but would frame around it. I first was looking at this one ( http://cableorganizer.com/computer-c...k.htm#features ) but it mounts in the back which I could build a frame for it to support the back and the bottom but then want the MA custom faces, can you mix and match brands? or is there a better option.
> 
> .




You have a couple of options - the simplest of which may just be getting rack-rail and securing these to studs spaced the appropriate width apart - if you need rear rails for cable management or other mounting then you'd need to do something there.... that might lead you to getting a SLIM-5 rack from Middle Atlantic and building a base to sit it on - this is esentially what I did (although the base is only about 8 inches tall - see my rack pic a handful of post above this one)


----------



## hellerbrewing

I was reading somewhere that when wiring for home theater you need to keep your low-voltage wiring (speaker, video Cat5) at least 12 inches away from high voltage 115V wiring due to EMI. Did most of you try to do this on your installs? Is this extremely critical or is it just something for audiophile purists and is only going to make a negligible difference?


mwardncsu, I'll pull them out tonight and check.


----------



## T.Wells




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwardncsu* /forum/post/14980868
> 
> 
> would love to know the same - I spotted an on-line that has the lacer bars "al-la-carte" but did not see the vertical bars....
> 
> 
> Maybe there is a "group buy" needed with a split out



I am in for two vertical lace bars if this is possible. Maybe AVS will do this for us?










-T.Wells


----------



## mwardncsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/14995812
> 
> 
> I was reading somewhere that when wiring for home theater you need to keep your low-voltage wiring (speaker, video Cat5) at least 12 inches away from high voltage 115V wiring due to EMI. Did most of you try to do this on your installs? Is this extremely critical or is it just something for audiophile purists and is only going to make a negligible difference?.



You certainly do not want any extended parallel runs of the low-voltage and power wires as it is possible to pick up some inductive "hum". Best practices have your low voltage and high voltage cross at right angles to one another.


Of course, there is best practice and what you can accomplish in your real-world scenario given the constraints you have to work with - just try and keep seperation where possible and minimize any close parallel runs (I'd not want to run power and low-voltage together in a bundle down the length of a 20U - 30U rack - but then again power typicall comes out on the right side (looking from the back) of most components and you can route your signal cables to the left side.....)


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jseese* /forum/post/14985595
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a rack to mount in the middle of a wall? It doesn't need to be a floor standing model but would frame around it. I first was looking at this one ( http://cableorganizer.com/computer-c...k.htm#features ) but it mounts in the back which I could build a frame for it to support the back and the bottom but then want the MA custom faces, can you mix and match brands? or is there a better option.
> 
> 
> It is a new construction wall with access to the back so I will access the equipment from the back and use custom faceplates for the front. It has to have space for a PS3, Denon reciver, Cable box, but would like to have some sports for expansion. I looked at the Middle Atlantic site but am not sure which model would suit my needs.




I used a middle atlantic rk20 for something like you describe and have been very happy.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwardncsu* /forum/post/14996199
> 
> 
> just try and keep seperation where possible and minimize any close parallel runs (I'd not want to run power and low-voltage together in a bundle down the length of a 20U - 30U rack - but then again power typicall comes out on the right side (looking from the back) of most components and you can route your signal cables to the left side.....)



This is kind of why I am concerned about this. My rack is next to a wall that has power in it on the left side. I can try to run the signal down the right but routing the power cables across to the left side might be a pain. I wonder if putting some metal screen or aluminum foil on the sheetrock would block any EMI that is coming from the power lines in the wall.


----------



## jseese




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/14997208
> 
> 
> I used a middle atlantic rk20 for something like you describe and have been very happy.




That is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks!!


----------



## aramb

Here's my rack...


----------



## viator50

aramb,


Are those Triad in-ceiling speakers?


----------



## aramb

Viator50:


Yep... they sure are Triads... the ones over the seating area are the Triad InWall Silver/4 Surrounds (dipoles). The two on either side of the projector are the Triad InCeiling Gold/6 Omnis. This setup was recommended by Paul Scarpelli of Triad and it worked out real nice!


AramB


----------



## viator50

Very nice. I too went with Triad after many hours of reading here. I can not tell you how happy I am that I did.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwardncsu* /forum/post/14993165
> 
> 
> Do these "front to back" lacer bars attach from the inside of the rack, or do you have to have access to the "outside" of the rack-rails? I've already got my rack mounted in the wall and getting access to the outside of the front rail pair would be a real pain (I'd basically have to remove everything, unbolt it and pull it out - I have full access to the back, so if these can be secured from the inside of the rack then it would be perfect for what I need right now for cable mounting...
> 
> 
> thx...



I checked it out last night. They do attach to the inside of the rack however they come with bolts to attach to the large holes on the inside rack-rails. They work the same way as the zero space shelf that I put in last night, where a small bolt gets inserted from the outside and nut goes on the inside. I have the same problem as you where I can't really get to the outside of the front rack rails because they are framed in with 2X4s. This morning I stopped at the hardware store and picked up some 1 x 5/16 lag screws that I'll screw direclty into the 2x4 from the inside to hold anything I need to attach to the inide rails on the front. This should work fine I would think.


----------



## mwardncsu

thanks hellerbrewing....


I decided to go the rack-rail route and had purchased some stock punched steel strips to mount horizontially (and one vertically) to mount the strips to, but when looking at the problem with rails in hand I realized I could just notch the rails and mount to the existing top/middle/bottom horizontal mounts and return the $60ish $$ of steel that I purchased....










I now have a inset set of rack-rails and am making good progress to triming out my rack - just one more trip to Home Depot for some RCA connectors and I'll be good to go.


----------



## jongig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/14799620
> 
> 
> Hey, someday we will have universal HDMI CEC. Then there will be no need for ir emitters and all that extra wire.
> 
> 
> One cable for video, audio, and control. But that has been in the works for years. HDMI is the last of many industry standards body to try an implement a control standard. Maybe some day we will see one.




Never happen or maybe it has. I love to watch a Bluray and when done turn the bluray off and think I'll switch the TV to satelite, but guess what, seems as though my prepro passes those neat HDMI signals from the bluray to the TV saying I just got turned off so you should turn off also. No matter how much money you throw at this sport you still run into some dumb stuff, way to go Samsung.


----------



## jongig

I had my house built with a closet for the slim 5 with access from the rear through a adjoining coat closet. I sort of didn't think about the coat rack which is now making me think that maybe access from the front by pulling out the rack might not be a bad idea. The rack is sitting on the floor in the closet and I guess I could put some pads under it since it's a wooden floor which will help it slide but I was wondering about other options.


I didn't like the Middle ATlantic options which seemed to be much more than I need.


Maybe a small platform for the rack to sit on which has small rubber wheels giving it the ability to travel out and back?


Anyone try anything different?


----------



## mwardncsu

MA has casters which can mount directly into the bottom plate of the Slim5 rack - these basically just screw/bolt into a threaded sleeve so you can probably find some casters at Home Depot or Lowes or elsewhere that may meet the need.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/15053183
> 
> 
> Never happen or maybe it has. I love to watch a Bluray and when done turn the bluray off and think I'll switch the TV to satelite, but guess what, seems as though my prepro passes those neat HDMI signals from the bluray to the TV saying I just got turned off so you should turn off also. No matter how much money you throw at this sport you still run into some dumb stuff, way to go Samsung.




Will there ever be a totally integrated solution?


----------



## Cathan

Perhaps a silly questions, but are MA custom face plates only available when purchasing it as an integrated shelf? Or can you but the normal slim 5 vented shelf and then later add a custom face plate?


----------



## Bustabus

This might be too much of a newbie question to ask in this thread, but probably the best place to get an answer from.


I am looking to build an in-wall cabinet for my components. Basically, I would like to rackmount them all in one location. My question is, what is the best way to get easy access to the back, while keeping wiring as clean as possible? In my mind at the moment, I am looking to build the rack in a corner, but I am slowly realizing how messy cables would be at the back. Do I just give more slack to the wires and push them back after connecting the components? That would look nasty...How did you guys do your setups? I am going for the cleanest possible setup here...Thanks.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/15063641
> 
> 
> Perhaps a silly questions, but are MA custom face plates only available when purchasing it as an integrated shelf? Or can you but the normal slim 5 vented shelf and then later add a custom face plate?


 This place allows you to purchase just the face plates.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bustabus* /forum/post/15063752
> 
> 
> This might be too much of a newbie question to ask in this thread, but probably the best place to get an answer from.
> 
> 
> I am looking to build an in-wall cabinet for my components. Basically, I would like to rackmount them all in one location. My question is, what is the best way to get easy access to the back, while keeping wiring as clean as possible? In my mind at the moment, I am looking to build the rack in a corner, but I am slowly realizing how messy cables would be at the back. Do I just give more slack to the wires and push them back after connecting the components? That would look nasty...How did you guys do your setups? I am going for the cleanest possible setup here...Thanks.



Take a look at alot of the pictures in the thread. You can get alot of good ideas from what people have posted.


----------



## pmeyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bustabus* /forum/post/15063752
> 
> 
> This might be too much of a newbie question to ask in this thread, but probably the best place to get an answer from.
> 
> 
> I am looking to build an in-wall cabinet for my components. Basically, I would like to rackmount them all in one location. My question is, what is the best way to get easy access to the back, while keeping wiring as clean as possible? In my mind at the moment, I am looking to build the rack in a corner, but I am slowly realizing how messy cables would be at the back. Do I just give more slack to the wires and push them back after connecting the components? That would look nasty...How did you guys do your setups? I am going for the cleanest possible setup here...Thanks.



If I understand you correctly, you are proposing pulling your rack out (or swiveling it?) to wire it up, and you are concerned about the slack when you push it back in?


In this case, the wiring between components on the rack will not be messy. It'll only be wires to other components (speakers/display) that will be an issue. One typical solution is to run all of those up to the top of your rack first. From there, create a common bundle of all the wires heading off of the rack. Drape the bundle from the top of your rack down 3' towards the floor, and then back up 3' to a connection point on the wall behind your rack.


When the rack is pushed in, you'll have a nice neat loop of cables down the back of the rack and back up the wall. When you pull the rack out, this loop will straighten out and not restrict the rack movement.


I believe some of the Middle Atlantic swivel/slide racks have built in hinged trays that facilitate this kind of cable management.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bustabus* /forum/post/15063752
> 
> 
> This might be too much of a newbie question to ask in this thread, but probably the best place to get an answer from.
> 
> 
> I am looking to build an in-wall cabinet for my components. Basically, I would like to rackmount them all in one location. My question is, what is the best way to get easy access to the back, while keeping wiring as clean as possible? In my mind at the moment, I am looking to build the rack in a corner, but I am slowly realizing how messy cables would be at the back. Do I just give more slack to the wires and push them back after connecting the components? That would look nasty...How did you guys do your setups? I am going for the cleanest possible setup here...Thanks.



The most desirable is rear access to your rack. Not always possible, but it make adds and changes the easiest.


----------



## Cathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/15063790
> 
> This place allows you to purchase just the face plates.



Thanks. Happen to know if those plates also work with the SLIM 5 Series Zero-Space Rackshelf?


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/15064257
> 
> 
> Thanks. Happen to know if those plates also work with the SLIM 5 Series Zero-Space Rackshelf?



I would assume so but I could not say for sure. Might email or call middle atlantic to verify.


----------



## mwardncsu

The face plates have "ears" that are used to clip over the side brackets of the custom shelf but these could be easily "altered" as needed - the faceplate may not be secured to the shelf directly, but once you screw it all into the rack it would be positionally aligned due to the screws.


MA's site has some good dimensional diagrams of the various components that you can pull to make sure you think it will all work.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Not sure if I am suppsed to post a link to it or not, but there is a good deal on a 43 space slim 5 on ebay right now. Should not be hard to find.


----------



## WakJob




> Quote:
> my prepro passes those neat HDMI signals from the bluray to the TV saying I just got turned off so you should turn off also



My BR player and my Pre/pro both have options to turn this off. The funny thing is that I want this feature, but can't make it work with my equipment.


----------



## WakJob

I updated mine:


----------



## ifor

the br player is pretty high. is it hard to reach?


----------



## WakJob




> Quote:
> the br player is pretty high. is it hard to reach?



It's not too bad. I think it's about 5 ft from the ground. Probably not the best layout, but I wanted the keep flow of signals going from top to bottom.


----------



## David F

Here's mine. Not quite wired up yet, but getting there. I'm going to post some pics of the entire theater layout when I get a chance.


The rack is behind a pocket door at the rear of the theater. Here is the door closed:










And the door open (the IR repeater is not attached to the Comcast box yet):










I have two Parasound amps powering the speakers (Vandersteens all around), an Onkyo 805 that I'm using as a preamp, a Sony BDP-S350 blu-ray player, and a Comcast HD DVR. Projector is a Sony VW40 firing onto a 106" diagonal Stewart screen (1.3 gain).


----------



## jschlesi

I just got through putting in the first part of a living room rack to hold the electronics for a flat screen. This would not have been possible without this thread as I gleaned every idea and possible solution by running through this AVS thread ( and a few others on AVS)

I mounted a Middle Atlantic economay rack and framed out a shelf around it.

So far I have hung the Flat Screen, run a temporay HDMI and power cord through the wall, sat coax, phoneline, framed out the rack, and run power to rack.

Still left to do:

monoprice recessed power outlet

speakers

speaker wire

cabling


I will post more pictures as this progresses.


----------



## David F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jschlesi* /forum/post/15109008
> 
> 
> I just got through putting in the first part of a living room rack to hold the electronics for a flat screen. This would not have been possible without this thread as I gleaned every idea and possible solution by running through this AVS thread ( and a few others on AVS)
> 
> I mounted a Middle Atlantic economay rack and framed out a shelf around it.
> 
> So far I have hung the Flat Screen, run a temporay HDMI and power cord through the wall, sat coax, phoneline, framed out the rack, and run power to rack.
> 
> Still left to do:
> 
> monoprice recessed power outlet
> 
> speakers
> 
> speaker wire
> 
> cabling
> 
> 
> I will post more pictures as this progresses.



Nice clean install. Looks good!


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jschlesi* /forum/post/15109008
> 
> 
> I just got through putting in the first part of a living room rack to hold the electronics for a flat screen. This would not have been possible without this thread as I gleaned every idea and possible solution by running through this AVS thread ( and a few others on AVS)
> 
> I mounted a Middle Atlantic economay rack and framed out a shelf around it.
> 
> So far I have hung the Flat Screen, run a temporay HDMI and power cord through the wall, sat coax, phoneline, framed out the rack, and run power to rack.
> 
> Still left to do:
> 
> monoprice recessed power outlet
> 
> speakers
> 
> speaker wire
> 
> cabling
> 
> 
> I will post more pictures as this progresses.



Nice, looks like the same TV I have.


----------



## jschlesi

Panasonic Viera. Very happy with it.


----------



## pmeyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David F* /forum/post/15080697
> 
> 
> Here's mine. Not quite wired up yet, but getting there. I'm going to post some pics of the entire theater layout when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> The rack is behind a pocket door at the rear of the theater. Here is the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the door open (the IR repeater is not attached to the Comcast box yet):



Ok, you got me: where did the door go? Does it rotate out of sight somewhere, or did you just pull it of it's hinges?


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmeyer* /forum/post/15111274
> 
> 
> Ok, you got me: where did the door go? Does it rotate out of sight somewhere, or did you just pull it of it's hinges?



Looks like a sliding pocket door.


----------



## pmeyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richh* /forum/post/15111331
> 
> 
> Looks like a sliding pocket door.



I can see that now. I guess I mentally ruled it out because there doesn't seem to be enough wall to the right to support it. It must extend out further than the corner. Cool!


----------



## David F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmeyer* /forum/post/15111704
> 
> 
> I can see that now. I guess I mentally ruled it out because there doesn't seem to be enough wall to the right to support it. It must extend out further than the corner. Cool!




Hi Paul,


Yeah, it's a pocket door. The bookcases extend a foot out from the rear wall, so the pocket door is actually sliding in behind them, if you get what I mean. It's a really clean look if you ask me. But that was my contractor's idea (been one of my best friends for 25 years).


----------



## Driving_Hamster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David F* /forum/post/15080697
> 
> 
> Here's mine. Not quite wired up yet, but getting there. I'm going to post some pics of the entire theater layout when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> The rack is behind a pocket door at the rear of the theater. Here is the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the door open (the IR repeater is not attached to the Comcast box yet):



I will be proudly stealing this idea for the rear of my theater 2.0, when ever that is







. Excellent idea your contractor buddy came up with.


----------



## David F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Driving_Hamster* /forum/post/15116138
> 
> 
> I will be proudly stealing this idea for the rear of my theater 2.0, when ever that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Excellent idea your contractor buddy came up with.



Have at it! I also have two solid-core pocket doors that lead into the theater. Ceiling is going up today. I will post pics of the whole room soon, promise!


----------



## dbbarron

FYI - Tweeter (as part of its liquidation) has the Omnimount RSF 30 pace racks at an outstanding price. I just purchased two from the Dedham, MA store. One new in box, one floor model. They had a few more floor models.


db


----------



## Paul McPherson

Love all the DIY racks. What are you folks doing for cooling/ air flow. I read the recommendations from the rack mfr's but I'm more interested in what's actually being done by the DIY versions I'm seeing here.


Some of these racks open to adjacent rooms, so, as long as these rooms have adequate ventilation, there shouldn't be any issues. However, the ones that are built into walls are going to get extremely hot. I'd love to see pics (or descriptions) of how these are being vented/ cooled.


----------



## techlvr33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art sonneborn* /forum/post/9485798
> 
> 
> here are a couple:



there's an equipment rack here,lol! The things I would let them do too me,lol.


----------



## jongig

I've been watching this thread for sometime and just thought I'd post a picture of my rack. I have my HP theater PC in the rack and I put a keyboard drawer for the wireless keyboard and I put a 1 space HP TFT7210R, 17 inch LCD. Works well.


I had a problem after the closet was done because I was supposed to have access to the rear of the closet from the adjoining closet behind it. As it turned out it became a problem after the closet rod and shef were installed which left it without a good size area for an opening to the rear of the rack closet.


Since the closet for the slim 5 rack was finished I had only 3/4 of an inch to work with top/bottom and now wanted to make the rack so it slid in/out. I solved the problem by buying a piece of 1/2 inch poly board which I cut to the size of the closet opening floor front to back. I then made 2 inch wide strips from the poly board and mounted them to the bottom of the slim5 rack. I then cut 2 inch wide channels in the poly mounted on the floor so that the slim5 rack fit into them and slid in and out. The rack is heavy but slides nicely in and out and this was an inexpensive way out of my problem and it works fairly well. It also looks nice and clean.


----------



## jongig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paul McPherson* /forum/post/15192231
> 
> 
> Love all the DIY racks. What are you folks doing for cooling/ air flow. I read the recommendations from the rack mfr's but I'm more interested in what's actually being done by the DIY versions I'm seeing here.
> 
> 
> Some of these racks open to adjacent rooms, so, as long as these rooms have adequate ventilation, there shouldn't be any issues. However, the ones that are built into walls are going to get extremely hot. I'd love to see pics (or descriptions) of how these are being vented/ cooled.




Mine is closed in and I've not solved the problem yet myself. I have a lot of openings in the front rack but I still want to solve this. I have a rack blower but forget it because of the noise. I'm also concerned about dust in the cabinet so I'm trying to think of this as well. My thinking now is that I'll place a inline blower in the cabinet and pipe air into that back of the cabinet. I'll also place a filter on the duct and have access from an adjining closet for cleaining. As for size, at this point I'm leaning toward about 150 CFM.


I think even one of the quiet bathroom fans would work and I'd just have to add a filter pad to the inside.


----------



## dhnjp1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/15195256
> 
> 
> Mine is closed in and I've not solved the problem yet myself. I have a lot of openings in the front rack but I still want to solve this. I have a rack blower but forget it because of the noise. I'm also concerned about dust in the cabinet so I'm trying to think of this as well. My thinking now is that I'll place a inline blower in the cabinet and pipe air into that back of the cabinet. I'll also place a filter on the duct and have access from an adjining closet for cleaining. As for size, at this point I'm leaning toward about 150 CFM.
> 
> 
> I think even one of the quiet bathroom fans would work and I'd just have to add a filter pad to the inside.



I'm in the process of designing/building a sealed closet to hold a 45u rack and also need advice on ventilation. The closet will be 10ft high and about 41ft^3. I thought one air change a minute would be enough so I ordered a 50cfm Panasonic Whisper bathroom fan.


For anyone that has a rack in a sealed closet, how many CFMs is your fan?


--Dan


----------



## hellerbrewing

Here's a design that I sketched out when I was considering sealing up my rack. Pulling all the intake air through a furnace filter should eliminate most of the dust. I have decided to make life easier and leave it open.


----------



## funkmonkey

Great Racks!!!!

Seems like most are of the vertical variety.


I had a bit of a different approach. Since I live in an apartment I can't really do a built-in, so I designed and built this TV stand/rack:


































The angled shelf will hold my center channel when it gets here, and aims it to ear level from our seated viewing/listening position. I did all the wood work and machining of the aluminum support tubes. The flat screen mount was store bought, though I drilled the big holes in it for more convenient cable access. The veneer is american Walnut, which I oiled with 3 coats of Danish oil rubbed in with steel-wool.


It is still a work in progress as i have added another shelf and re-arranged the components a little. I will post an update when its all set up with my speakers in place and electronics in their final homes.

I hope thats OKAY!










Cheers,

Funk


----------



## Paul McPherson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhnjp1* /forum/post/15197572
> 
> 
> I'm in the process of designing/building a sealed closet to hold a 45u rack and also need advice on ventilation. The closet will be 10ft high and about 41ft^3. I thought one air change a minute would be enough so I ordered a *50cfm Panasonic Whisper bathroom fan*.
> 
> 
> For anyone that has a rack in a sealed closet, how many CFMs is your fan?
> 
> 
> --Dan



Dan, you'll have to keep us updated as to how this works for you. I was thinking of using a similar fan but actually putting it in-line within the attic space behind my rack so I REALLY wouldn't hear it. I suppose the thermostat wire would need to be kinda long, but whatever...


----------



## Old

here is my quick and cheap rack.











each board is 19.5"x19.5" x 3/4" ply.

Used 4 1/2" threaded rods, with nut/washers holding up the boards. Boards are adjustable in height.


It's mobile (on wheels) and is adjustable so it gets the job done.


closet also has an exhaust vent hooked up to a thermostat.









I'm not sure what the CFM is though. I bought it at HD and picked it out mainly b/c it was quiet. seems to do a good job I think.

Old


EDIT: I looked it up, mine is 50CFM. As mentioned, it seems to work well enough for me.


----------



## Tupalev

Here's my newly completed rack (Middle Atlantic Slim 5, 5-37):











My thanks to this thread and the construction section at AVS in general, as I wouldn't have found the inspiration for the in-wall concept.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funkmonkey* /forum/post/15199198
> 
> 
> Great Racks!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Funk



I would agree nice rack!


----------



## ket-tek

The pocket door is awesome, I like that alot.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David F* /forum/post/15080697
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the door open (the IR repeater is not attached to the Comcast box yet):


----------



## ket-tek

That turned out really nice..




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tupalev* /forum/post/15214006
> 
> 
> Here's my newly completed rack (Middle Atlantic Slim 5, 5-37):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thanks to this thread and the construction section at AVS in general, as I wouldn't have found the inspiration for the in-wall concept.


----------



## ket-tek

Last year I used a small pair of 12 U rails and cut into the back wall of the existing coat closet downstairs for the living room plasma. The closet is built under the stairs so there was a ton of dead space behind it..


I had no other walls downstairs to do much with and did not want to lose much storage as this it the only closet in the downstairs of the house. I just remounted the existing wire shelf lower than normal but am still able to hang normal length coats.


In the pics its a 4u HTPC, 1u DVD player, the 2u empty shelf is where the comcast box is and the rest are blanks..


Nothing extreme just clean and hidden so my wife likes it, but when you do open the door and show someone it's a nice custom install. I'll be going all out later on when I build out the bonus room into a space for myself and a bunch of gear.


----------



## GPowers

Boy, I love all these creative ideas, like the pocket door hiding the rack.


----------



## David F

My room is finally done. I'm going to take some pictures tonight and upload them if I have time.


----------



## TKNice

A little more traditional...











It sits behind the screen wall in an unfinished area.


----------



## David F

TKNice, so you have a glass door on the front but open sides? Just curious about that.


----------



## TKNice

Yes, I picked up the rack from a friend for $50. I think his wife worked for compaq and they closed a data center where the employees could buy them for next to nothing. They bought three for $50 each and only needed two.


Beggars can't be choosers I suppose!


-Tom


----------



## David F

I actually tried to find used racks like that but didn't have any luck. That's great that you did!


----------



## SteveMo












Outlaw 950, BFD FBQ2496, Centerstage CS-2, Tohsiba XA2, Key Digital KD-VA5, M-Audio USB Uno, Three Marantz MA500 mono amplifiers, Denon 5200 stereo amplifier.


----------



## ket-tek

Hey SteveMo, what is the light switch at floor level for in the background?


So the family dog can turn on the lights in the hallway?


Just wondering, seems like an odd location for a light switch..


----------



## RTROSE

funkmonkey,


Nice work on the rack. The one YOU built I mean. Don't know if you helped "build" the other one, but that is WAY off topic. Great work.


I am going to have go the horizontal route for part of my basement build out and may use yours for inspiration.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## Paul McPherson

My in-wall DIY rack will be in the front of my room and I am searching for ideas on a rack door. I was thinking some kind of tinted plexiglass to reduce the distracting lights of components.


Do IR remotes work through tinted plexiglass?


Would love to see pics how DIYers are dealing with this.


----------



## SteveMo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ket-tek* /forum/post/15295053
> 
> 
> Hey SteveMo, what is the light switch at floor level for in the background?
> 
> 
> So the family dog can turn on the lights in the hallway?
> 
> 
> Just wondering, seems like an odd location for a light switch..



That is the light switch to the candy counter near the bottom of it. It was the best place to locate it and hide wiring inside the display.


----------



## funkmonkey

Thanks RT. when I first started designing it I was going to go lower and longer with five bays. I actually built it that way, at first. Once it was assembled it was way too huge, so I cut the sides down to get to a more reasonable size. Just over 6' is plenty wide for my room.


I was going to put doors on as well using some sliding hinge hardware similar to this:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...flipper%20door 

but decided against it for a more minimalist approach.


----------



## jongig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhnjp1* /forum/post/15197572
> 
> 
> I'm in the process of designing/building a sealed closet to hold a 45u rack and also need advice on ventilation. The closet will be 10ft high and about 41ft^3. I thought one air change a minute would be enough so I ordered a 50cfm Panasonic Whisper bathroom fan.
> 
> 
> For anyone that has a rack in a sealed closet, how many CFMs is your fan?
> 
> 
> --Dan




How did you make out with your fan?


I purchases a Nutone 100 CFM bathroom fan that was the quietest they sell at less than 1 sone and I can hear it and I hate hearing fans. I'm going to have to try something else. Seemed like such a nice idea.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/15303913
> 
> 
> How did you make out with your fan?
> 
> 
> I purchases a Nutone 100 CFM bathroom fan that was the quietest they sell at less than 1 sone and I can hear it and I hate hearing fans. I'm going to have to try something else. Seemed like such a nice idea.



Use a remote location fan like a panasonic WhisperLine™


----------



## dhnjp1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/15303913
> 
> 
> How did you make out with your fan?
> 
> 
> I purchases a Nutone 100 CFM bathroom fan that was the quietest they sell at less than 1 sone and I can hear it and I hate hearing fans. I'm going to have to try something else. Seemed like such a nice idea.



The Panasonic FV-05VQ3 50cfm fan I got is very quiet (


----------



## akakillroy

Updated my rack, simple and contains my projector:


----------



## charcoal grey

I like the idea of combining projector and equipment. Do you have any heat issues?


----------



## RobertR

I can't take a far away enough picture to show the whole thing, but here are some:































I built it with Unistrut and custom-cut pieces of steel, to give it that custom Middle Atlantic look without the Middle Atlantic cost.


----------



## krep

Does MA offer a rack slide that I would be able to slide the rack to the _right_ (sideways), enter a tiny equipment room, slide it back into place blocking the doorway, and then work on the rack from the back?


I have a slightly "oddly shaped" equipment room. It's in a corner and I currently have a cheapo walmart shelf holding my equipment and am debating going to a Mid Atlantic rack.


My room is about 7(w)x4(L)x3-5(h). The ceiling is diagonal, its about 5' at the doorway where you enter, decending to the wall 4' away to be only about 3' high. Current the equipment shelf is on caster, I roll it to the right, get inside the tiny room, then crawl behind the rack and make my mods, and then get back out (yes it is loads of fun).


Also I am out of "shelf" space, thus my preference to replace it with a rack.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krep* /forum/post/15718534
> 
> 
> Does MA offer a rack slide that I would be able to slide the rack to the _right_ (sideways), enter a tiny equipment room, slide it back into place blocking the doorway, and then work on the rack from the back?



Just add some wheels to the rack MA sells the wheels. when Compaq was selling racks they all came with wheels.


----------



## krep

I suppose that is the easiest solution huh? My current "shelf" doesn't roll very easy because the closet has carpet. I was worried by the time I got a fully stocked 48" rack it would be so heavy it would barely roll. I should probably just put down some hard surface over the carpet so it can be easily rolled...


----------



## Tedd

Why not just screw down some steel U track for the wheels. (Unistrut perhaps??) It would give an easy rolling surface and maintain rack alignment?


Any rolling rack would also need some sway bracing, as well as any heavy amplifiers mounted down low.


We need a picture of that av closet!


----------



## 04FLHRCI

Putting the finishing touches on my diy rack; I need to install the smoked plexi in the doors, and subsequently, mount the doors. I'm attaching an initial 'quick' shot.


Larry


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *04FLHRCI* /forum/post/15721243
> 
> 
> Putting the finishing touches on my diy rack; I need to install the smoked plexi in the doors, and subsequently, mount the doors. I'm attaching an initial 'quick' shot.
> 
> 
> Larry



holy crap - glad I'm not your neighbor.


----------



## krep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/15720172
> 
> 
> Why not just screw down some steel U track for the wheels. (Unistrut perhaps??) It would give an easy rolling surface and maintain rack alignment?
> 
> 
> Any rolling rack would also need some sway bracing, as well as any heavy amplifiers mounted down low.
> 
> 
> We need a picture of that av closet!



When its finished you can see some pictures of the OUTSIDE - but hopefully no one but me will ever see the inside! LOL


As for Unistrut, good idea but, I think when I attached the wheels (the shelf was originally intended to be temporary) I didn't bother with such silly things as "symmetry".


I am thinking about just attaching some rack rails to the shelf, a bit of extra bracing, one of those clear under-desk rolly-chair mats, and calling it good. Heck, when it's flush with the door, I guess no one but me would know the difference!


----------



## Beemer533

I just moved into my house, so everything is still in progress.....


I have a closet in the corner of the family room that is housing the AV rack, I have no access to the rear so I had to be able to slide the rack out. I was originally going to get some slide rails, but it started to get too complicated so I made a rail system from Uni-strut (I love that stuff







) and 2" C channel from HD. I bolted angle to the sides of the rack and added wheels.... works pretty well.


I've been concentrating on the wiring, so the rack isn't populated yet.


----------



## GPowers

What is photos 402 all about. Is that your DIY power filter/conditioner?


----------



## platinum_ht

It's not wall mounted but here's mine.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...?do=ad&id=8933


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *platinum_ht* /forum/post/15734301
> 
> 
> It's not wall mounted but here's mine.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...?do=ad&id=8933



That is over the top. What a place to show off all your hardware. Very cool...


----------



## Beemer533

@ Gpowers


I guess I should have put in a description....!


That is my relay/delay box. When my Marantz turns on, the 12v triggers one of the relays which immediately turns on my crossovers, feedback destroyer, etc. It also starts the timer (the small PCB in the box) so 10 seconds later all the amps get turned on. I based it on my Adcom unit which basically does the same thing, but didn't have the capacity for the extra A500s I will be adding. Each relay switches a 20A circuit.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beemer533* /forum/post/15736738
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I should have put in a description....!
> 
> 
> That is my relay/delay box. When my Marantz turns on, the 12v triggers one of the relays which immediately turns on my crossovers, feedback destroyer, etc. It also starts the timer (the small PCB in the box) so 10 seconds later all the amps get turned on. I based it on my Adcom unit which basically does the same thing, but didn't have the capacity for the extra A500s I will be adding. Each relay switches a 20A circuit.




Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## CollinViegas





















Wall racks are coming this week for the DVD's and Blurays


----------



## John H

I just finished the closet and loaded up the equipment Wednesday. I haven't had time to route the cables.


John


----------



## kevin g.

Wow John,

That is amazing...all DIY??

How about some build pics??


----------



## John H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin g.* /forum/post/15762004
> 
> 
> Wow John,
> 
> That is amazing...all DIY??
> 
> How about some build pics??



Thanks,


I don't have to many build photos.


John


----------



## hellerbrewing

Mine is still in progress, I am adding pieces as I can afford them or find them on ebay. at least the theater is up an running and sounding good!


----------



## guamguam

Not as glamorous as most, but it only cost me about $60 in materials and is very functional.


Front:










Back:


----------



## Sokoloff

Where did you get that many big shelf brackets for under $60? (I don't need them for AV, but I need them for my pantry...







)


----------



## guamguam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sokoloff* /forum/post/15883547
> 
> 
> Where did you get that many big shelf brackets for under $60? (I don't need them for AV, but I need them for my pantry...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I got all of my stuff at Menards. I think the brackets were about $3.50 a pair and the rails to attach them to were about $8 a piece.


----------



## corejonp1

Let me first state, that this thread is nothing but pure unadulterated rack porn.


I just ordered a pair of Middle Atlantic RRF 12u rack rails (although now I think I should have gotten the 14u rails instead). I am going to be modifying an entertainment center, one of those huge 4 piece ones that takes up and finishes a huge chunk of wall. In my case it is 110 inches wide. well the two towers have at their bases 18 7/8 inch wide doors with plenty of room behind them, so I am going to do two 12 (probably 14..that whole measure twice thing) small racks, built in to the furniture. It is going to require some modifications to fit exact, so I am going to mount two pieces of wood inside the cabinet just slightly wider than the door opening, and mount the rails to that. And for anyone wondering how that would work for a piece of hardware with a face say 1/8" to wide, you simply angle the unit a smidge to clear one side first (works in my mind anyway). That said, the 2 things I have now that are rack mountable are 18 7/8" wide and will fit with pretty much zero gap - in fact I might need to keep a mallet on hand. (oh it will fit)


-Corey


 


Equipment list:


The tv is a 50" Sony A2020 SXRD 1080p


Right Rack:

HD Cable box

PS3 - 60gb

XBox 360 Elite

Yamaha HTR-5960 (short list to upgrade)

Monster Power PRO 3500 (got it for cheap)


Left Rack:

PS3 - 60GB

XBox 360 (black face plate)

Denon, 3808ci

Monster Power HTS 3500 MK2 (got this for cheap too)


Network Gear:


Linksys CM100 Cable Modem

Apple Airport Extreme 802.11n wireless router

HP Procurve 1800 8G 8 port gigabit switch

Apple Airport Express 802.11n bridge for the kitchen -

extends wireless range, and adds a wireless kitchen audio zone for use with

I-Tunes air tunes. Works awesome in my tests.


Current speakers in the main room are Yamaha NS Series, triple 5 fronts, with triple 3 center and triple 4 surrounds. The speakers and receiver are all planned to be upgraded after I get back from Flight Engineering school. My brothers bedroom set up has a 40 inch Samsung 6 series touch of color and JBL Studio-L's and will be run from the left rack, the wires will be run through the wall.


We move in sometime in April around the 20th so pictures will be added.


----------



## vdubturbo

Well, I've been waiting a long time to be able to post in this thread... and leave it to me to post on a Friday when there's probably no one looking. But, here is finally is. Comments suggestions welcome! Thanks for all the motivation!


----------



## md1953

vdubturbo,


Very nice and clean install.


A couple of things, what's the top unit in your rack aside from a downlight? Also, get rid of the stickers on the Denon


----------



## Mr_Mike_P




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vdubturbo* /forum/post/15930982
> 
> 
> Well, I've been waiting a long time to be able to post in this thread... and leave it to me to post on a Friday when there's probably no one looking. But, here is finally is. Comments suggestions welcome! Thanks for all the motivation!



Any build pictures? looks like what im trying to do!


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vdubturbo* /forum/post/15930982
> 
> 
> Well, I've been waiting a long time to be able to post in this thread... and leave it to me to post on a Friday when there's probably no one looking. But, here is finally is. Comments suggestions welcome! Thanks for all the motivation!



We look at the forum on our time over the weekend and works time during the week.


----------



## vdubturbo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *md1953* /forum/post/15931124
> 
> 
> vdubturbo,
> 
> 
> Very nice and clean install.
> 
> 
> A couple of things, what's the top unit in your rack aside from a downlight? Also, get rid of the stickers on the Denon



Thanks! I think the unit you're talking about is the active equalizer for the Bose speakers. I was surprised to see MA had a shelf for that.


I've been having problem after problem with those Denons. That's actually the second one in 12 days and I'm considering exchanging that one too... First one the HDMI controller quit. Now this one won't run Audyssey correctly.










I'll dig through my photos to see if I have any good build pics. It was pretty straight forward. I cheated and used rack rails instead of a full rack, but it came out exactly the way I wanted it. If not I'll snap some new ones.


Thanks guys!


----------



## corejonp1

rack rails for the win.


----------



## adammb

Where is the best place to buy shelves for a middle atlantic setup. I have the rack coming but want to know the best place to buy shelves and maybe a fan or two.


----------



## vdubturbo

I use http://www.buyrackgear.com They're amongst the cheapest I've found and if I order on Sunday night, its at my door Thursday afternoon EVERY TIME. Free shipping too.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vdubturbo* /forum/post/15935282
> 
> 
> Thanks! I think the unit you're talking about is the active equalizer for the Bose speakers. I was surprised to see MA had a shelf for that.
> 
> 
> I've been having problem after problem with those Denons. That's actually the second one in 12 days and I'm considering exchanging that one too... First one the HDMI controller quit. Now this one won't run Audyssey correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll dig through my photos to see if I have any good build pics. It was pretty straight forward. I cheated and used rack rails instead of a full rack, but it came out exactly the way I wanted it. If not I'll snap some new ones.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!



Off subject but what model Denon is that? I just purchased a 988 refurb and havent used it for anything via hdmi yet and curious where you bought and what all issues you have had


----------



## vdubturbo

Its a 3808CI I got from Best Buy. I'm wondering if was just a freak chance, but it just flat out stopped working after 12 days. They exchanged it no questions asked, but I still can't get Audyssey to work on this unit. I have notoriously bad luck sometimes, so I guess this may not be too out of the ordinary.


Now sure if means anything, but both boxes looked like they had been dropped at some point in shipping. I think the only thing wrong with this is the microphone, but I have no way of troubleshooting it. Otherwise, the unit is excellent.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Take your microphone into best buy, they should be able try it on one of their units. If it does not work they should be able to swap it out for you.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adammb* /forum/post/15943675
> 
> 
> Where is the best place to buy shelves for a middle atlantic setup. I have the rack coming but want to know the best place to buy shelves and maybe a fan or two.



gruber.com


----------



## jdholmes

I didn't see any on gruber.com - maybe I'm missing something. Any other good options? Especially for the Canadian members?


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdholmes* /forum/post/15950954
> 
> 
> I didn't see any on gruber.com - maybe I'm missing something. Any other good options? Especially for the Canadian members?


 http://www.gruber.com/GruberInd/pg.asp?FeatureID=03 


The page has 14 different shelf products.


----------



## jdholmes

Oh great! My bad. Good price on the vented racks - thanks for the resource!


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adammb* /forum/post/15943675
> 
> 
> Where is the best place to buy shelves for a middle atlantic setup. I have the rack coming but want to know the best place to buy shelves and maybe a fan or two.



I was recommended performanceaudio.com a few pages back. I have ordered a few custom shelves from them and have been satisfied. They ship directly from middle atlantic and orders over 100 ship free.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdholmes* /forum/post/15951186
> 
> 
> Oh great! My bad. Good price on the vented racks - thanks for the resource!



No problem,as their home page is not all that great. Hard to know where too go.


----------



## Warren_G

My DIY Rack, not as adjustable as a MA, but designed for the current rack of gear I have.


----------



## avsuser008




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/13685893



You could use this rack, capacity up to 4,000 lbs?


----------



## srubenst

I'm in the process of building my dedicated theater and will be setting up a slim-5 Middle Atlantic rack. I will be using my 40GB PS3 so I ordered a custom faceplate. I just opened it and realized that it's perfectly cut, so it does not allow space for the USB wires to go to the back of the rack. How have others handled this this situation?


I will also be using a 1U perf panel inbeteen all of the components. Will I have to notch out hole in that panel to allow the cords to come through?


Thanks!


----------



## vdubturbo

I haven't had to run any cables through the plates, but I imagine the cleanest way to do it would be to find a bulkhead mount female to female USB connector. Someone must sell one.


----------



## KKfromLA

hey guys, I am not sure the right place to ask this, but does anyone know where to get caged nuts/retainer nuts (whatever the nuts are called that are used for racks)? I went to my local hardware store and they didn't have them... I don't know of any studio-gear stores around me unfortunately..


oh and another question, is it improper to mount the shelves on the inside side of the rack versus the outside side? I want to do this so that my cover panels will all sit flush. If i have to put the cover panels over the shelf brackets then all the panels wont be flush...


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KKfromLA* /forum/post/16077225
> 
> 
> hey guys, I am not sure the right place to ask this, but does anyone know where to get caged nuts/retainer nuts (whatever the nuts are called that are used for racks)? I went to my local hardware store and they didn't have them... I don't know of any studio-gear stores around me unfortunately..
> 
> 
> oh and another question, is it improper to mount the shelves on the inside side of the rack versus the outside side? I want to do this so that my cover panels will all sit flush. If i have to put the cover panels over the shelf brackets then all the panels wont be flush...



You mean these ?


Frank


----------



## abeas

This is probably a dumb question, but if I order a faceplate for my PS3 and HD-A35, do the face plates just screw in on top of the existing rack shelf? I have Middle Atlantic RC 2 and 3 clamping rack shelves. Any problem with using these and the faceplates?


----------



## hellerbrewing

Generally the faceplates come with shelves. They also come with sides that screw down to the shelf and these also attach to the faceplate itself. This allows you to mount your unit tight up against the face with the included brackets before you screw the whole thing into the rack. You might be able to get away with just the faceplate on an existing shelf but you'd probably have to get everything tighetened down after it is already in the rack and you might have height issues to deal with, not sure.


----------



## KKfromLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Weasel9992* /forum/post/16077356
> 
> 
> You mean these ?
> 
> 
> Frank




exactly these "rack mount nuts"
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SKB19AC1/ 


I want to finish assembling the rack today, so I was hoping to get them locally somewhere... I just spoke to guitarcenter and the rep said that they MIGHT have a box or two, but generally speaking, where else could these be found?


----------



## Neurorad

Home A/V Specialty store, or an affiliated installer?


There are tangible benefits to buying locally from a B&M shop - great service, in a pinch.


----------



## mls15000

Thanks to the many ideas here, I just build a small "in wall" rack for my gear. Nothing special, just a few shelves with a pullout shelf for my turntable. Was going to go with a mid-atlantic style rack system since I already have the post rails, but wasn't wide enough for my turntable. I just made a 36x20 box and recessed it into the wall. Added pilister strips to support the shelves and make them adjustable. Then bought some heavy duty drawer slides for the pullout shelf. Added a hinged door to the rear for cable access, which is accessible via the laundry room. I wanted to go a bit larger for future growth, but this should hold me over for a while. I am going to be swapping out the shelves with thinner material with routed slots for better air flow. Crappy cell phone pics attached for your viewing pleaseure


----------



## jongig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vdubturbo* /forum/post/16050510
> 
> 
> I haven't had to run any cables through the plates, but I imagine the cleanest way to do it would be to find a bulkhead mount female to female USB connector. Someone must sell one.



Middleatlantic does sell some of this but you also could get a faceplate for decora plates and then add any decora plates you need to make up the requirements of your system.


On the other hand I use some cables on a temporary basis and the Middleatlantic drawers have a cable entrance in the back and so I roll up the cables in the drawer until they are needed. I have a power connection and a USB. The HTPC has USB on the front but I leave little things connected in the drawer just to keep things clean.


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/16120170
> 
> 
> Middleatlantic does sell some of this but you also could get a faceplate for decora plates and then add any decora plates you need to make up the requirements of your system.
> 
> 
> On the other hand I use some cables on a temporary basis and the Middleatlantic drawers have a cable entrance in the back and so I roll up the cables in the drawer until they are needed. I have a power connection and a USB. The HTPC has USB on the front but I leave little things connected in the drawer just to keep things clean.



With my HTPC I do the same thing, i.e. I have a USB cable routed through the drawer. The problem with the PS3 though is that it only has USB ports in the front and nothing in the back. So if someone wants to use e.g the Nyko USB to IR dongle for integration with a universal remote system, one has to either put the dongle in the USB port in the front and run an IR blaster to it, or somehow run a USB extension cord to the back and attach the dongle and the IR blaster there. I'm thinking I'll try to use one of those left angled USB extension cables http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-aar04t-xxgbig.jpg 

and simply snake the USB cable through the face plate and attach the USB dongle and IR blaster there. Not perfect, but should work until the recently announced Logitech IR to Bluetooth converter is available.


----------



## Grae

Definitely the most difficult installation I've had to do so far, and probably my best work. Two racks. One fixed and one on a caster base, all in a tiny, tiny closet under the stairs.


----------



## Iusteve

THis may be some of the most beautiful work I have seen done when it comes to racks. And the wire management is spectacular, GREAT WORK!! Are you for hire?


----------



## GPowers

Gare:

The racks are a work of art. You must have countless hours invested in them. Must be tough to leave them. Again the wireing is absolutely beautiful!!!!


----------



## Weasel9992

I've been in design and install for years, and that is exceptionally beautiful work. You should be very proud.


Frank


----------



## John Ballentine

Yes! Superb work all around!


----------



## JSKMDWK












Here is my stuffed MA Slim 5 rack.


From top to bottom:

Middle Atlantic 915 Line Conditioner for amplifiers

(9) Soundstream M1 THX Monoblock amps, arranged as 3 M3s

Sonance Sonamp 260 amplifier for Bass Shakers

Outlaw ICBM for bi-amping front L and R signal

Integra DTC-9.8 preamp

Universal Remote MRF300 IR base station

Panasonic BDP35 Blu-ray player

TiVo HD

JVC HR-S7800U SVHS VCR

Escient DVD-M100

Sony DVP-CX777ES DVD changer

Monster Power 7000MkII SS

Monster Power AVS2000Pro SS


The rack is built into the back of a bedroom closet just outside of the theater in the halway. It is on casters, but I just walk into the bedroom to make any wiring changes.


----------



## Grae

Thanks for the kind words guys. It definitely does feel weird leaving that job since I was on it so long. I was there for about two months doing the racks and hooking up all the rest of the components within the house. Plenty of jokes about coming out of the closet from the other contractors there.


Not really for hire unless you go through the company I work for. I don't really do too much side work. That may be changing shortly though.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grae* /forum/post/16235989
> 
> 
> Thanks for the kind words guys. It definitely does feel weird leaving that job since I was on it so long. I was there for about two months doing the racks and hooking up all the rest of the components within the house. Plenty of jokes about coming out of the closet from the other contractors there.
> 
> 
> Not really for hire unless you go through the company I work for. I don't really do too much side work. That may be changing shortly though.



I hope you've been building a portfolio including pics of jobs just like that one. You will not want for work, that's for sure. I've worked with dozens and dozens of install guys over the years, and very few could pull that job off with that kind of panache.


Frank


----------



## Grae

Yup, I make sure to take pics of any big job I do. Like you said it's good stuff for a portfolio. You can feed an employer all kinds of information about what you can do, but if you don't have anything to show him to back it up it's all talk and trust.


----------



## Happytobehere200

Nothing Fancy but I got it all to fit in a tight space (Plus some is hidden behind).


Lights On !!!












Lights Off !!!


----------



## QQQ

Grae,


Beautiful work but since you are *that* good I'm going to take the opposite approach and chastise you for those emitters hanging off the front of the equipment







. Put those suckers inside







.


----------



## Weasel9992

I like it...really well integrated.


Frank


----------



## Grae

Yeah, I could've embedded the emitters inside the set top boxes, but it's likely they may upgrade to another cable company at some point and I decided not to. They're hot glued on though. Not gonna fall off unless someone's mucking with them.


----------



## carboranadum

How would you bury them [the emitters]?


I like the idea of using hot glue to attach these dudes. I have one in the bedroom that needs to be attached with something stronger than double sided tape. Any tricks to using hot glue to attach these?


CJ


----------



## Vcook

my harmony 890 came with hoods for the emitters that have sticky backs. they're great, and i've been able to pull them off and reuse them easily! the peel paper said 3m, they gotta be available somewhere.


----------



## mattr762

I think I win the award for the lamest rack ever. But, it does what I want it to do. P.S. I'll be adding a cable box soon.


----------



## Grae

CJ,


Hot glue is definitely the way to go if you've got stubborn emitters. Embedding an emitter isn't always the easiest task. Basically to do it you have have to take the casing off of whatever piece of equipment you're trying to control, locate where the infrared target is within it, and then stick the emitter on or next to it. You usually have to drill a tiny hole in the casing or pass it through a vent to get it inside.


Hot glue guns and glue sticks are really cheap. No real science to it. Just apply the melted glue to the emitter and press firmly on your equipment. Just don't apply too much.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mattr762* /forum/post/16283131
> 
> 
> I think I win the award for the lamest rack ever. But, it does what I want it to do. P.S. I'll be adding a cable box soon.



Absolutely nothing lame about that rack at all. It's neat, organized and totally functional. I see stuff that's 100% worse than that a dozen times a day. Nice job!


Frank


----------



## queendvd2

Grae, that is absolutely poetic work







!


----------



## mattwiss

Grae,


Wow. I am stunned... You are very good.


Cheers,

Matt


----------



## shawnwalters

Mine's just a site built build rack recessed out of the wall:



















It backs up into the storage room and is made of 1" mdf with a removable back secured by 4 clamps with weatherstripping. Also added a panasonic whisper exhaust fan on the top to draw out the heat.


----------



## mvita

Quick question for all you rack-meisters... I'm trying to find a small, light-duty rack or enclosure to house three or four "slim" A/V components (sat receiver, disc player, small stereo amp). It'll be placed in corner of a small walk-in bedroom closet. Maybe 10-12U or so, 14" or 16" deep, 3-4 adjustable shelves... I looked at Middle Atlantic, and their BRK12 model looks nice and would probably fit the bill, but configured as above it's a little more $$$ than I was hoping to spend. Anyone have a recommendation for a decent lower-cost alternative?


----------



## hellerbrewing

I just came across these when searching ebay for some middle atlantic stuff.

Link 
Link 

I see stuff like this come up all the time. If you keep watching I'm sure you could get something that would work for you for fairly cheap. If you search for "wall rack" you'll probably find something.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvita* /forum/post/16317479
> 
> 
> Quick question for all you rack-meisters... I'm trying to find a small, light-duty rack or enclosure to house three or four "slim" A/V components (sat receiver, disc player, small stereo amp). It'll be placed in corner of a small walk-in bedroom closet. Maybe 10-12U or so, 14" or 16" deep, 3-4 adjustable shelves... I looked at Middle Atlantic, and their BRK12 model looks nice and would probably fit the bill, but configured as above it's a little more $$$ than I was hoping to spend. Anyone have a recommendation for a decent lower-cost alternative?



There's Raxxess...they're usually a little cheaper than Middle Atlantic and the quality is similar. 10-12RU probably shouldn't cost you much more than $85 or so, like the links above suggest.


Frank


----------



## Fn0rd

I'm guessing there's more than one room served by this - or do they have multiple screens each with its own cable box?


Impressive work in any case. Better cable management than I've seen in a lot of carrier network sites.


----------



## Foxdii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CollinViegas* /forum/post/15760491
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wall racks are coming this week for the DVD's and Blurays



I just fell in love, not only is there enough Pioneer stuff there to make my world but its all neatly positioned in a rack. Wow, want a new friend? lol


----------



## Weasel9992

Wow. That's a lot of movies.


Frank


----------



## Naxos17

I used a Raxxess rack that is recessed in the wall. It is rackable and also pivots when fully extended. I also can get at it from the unfinished basement area behind the wall. I'll see if I can find a close up picture later.


----------



## steebo777

Nothing special about my rack, but I did take the time to wire all power on one side and video/audio cables on the other side in the rear. Keep cable management rear access easily accesable (yeah I just said easy rear access







)


Sorry for the crappy pics and even crappier work bench area where the stuff is stored.


----------



## TomsHT

Wow some great rack pictures throughout this thread but not much detail. How about mentioning where you got the face plates, what types of plates ya got etc....


----------



## TomsHT

Wow I cant believe how expensive these faceplates, shelves, drawers etc are... I have a small Slim5 21u and after seeing the great pics in this thread decided to update. Talk about an easy way to waste a thousand dollars... Winded up placing multiple orders and doing everything the hard way but its almost done, except a pace cable box that they dont have listed yet.


I shouldve known better by this point, improving family racks is always expensive to my wallet but well worth it


----------



## hellerbrewing

I hear ya, I had been buying one piece at a time but I just bit the bullet and dropped $500 a couple days ago to get the rest of the custom shelves I need as well as some drawers for storage.


----------



## TomsHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16571786
> 
> 
> I hear ya, I had been buying one piece at a time but I just bit the bullet and dropped $500 a couple days ago to get the rest of the custom shelves I need as well as some drawers for storage.



I'll make ya feel better... I originally had the sh zero unit shelves in my rack, not the rsh ones you should have for these faceplates. So I ordered just the face plates. Winded up needing to get the rsh shelves for them anyway but now since I didnt get them with the faceplates themselves, I then had to pay an additional $25 per each shelf










4 face plates x 58 = 232

5 rsh shelves x 65 = 325

2 2u drawers x 109 = 240

Total : $797


plus screws, some blank plates, shipping etc. All this and it doesnt even include that actual rack


Now if I could just get them to add the plate for the Pace TDC779X I would be finished. I cant believe they cant get the measurements straight from these companies rather then asking the consumer to mail them there video components.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Yeah, my figure does not include the 2 custom shelves, the zero space shelf, faceplates and cable managers I already have.











It looks better than this now, I have it all trimmed out. I'll post some better pics once I get the rest of the stuff put in and situated.


I had to wait forever for the Denon 1909 shelf to be added to their database. I tried to get denon to send them a unit but they just laughed at me (more or less). I don't really think the techs and denon could take accurate enough measurements for something that precise. I'm sure there is some trial and error involved as alot of the faceplates have curves and such.


----------



## TomsHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16571979
> 
> 
> Yeah, my figure does not include the 2 custom shelves, the zero space shelf, faceplates and cable managers I already have.
> 
> 
> It looks better than this now, I have it all trimmed out. I'll post some better pics once I get the rest of the stuff put in and situated.



Are all of the shelves the zero spaced ones? I ran into some problems as I mentioned with those shelves and the face plates. First it would require removing the metal tabs off the back of the faceplates, plus the screw would hit the shelf if it went past the frame. Not a problem to modify everything around this but by this point I figured I should just order the proper rsh shelves.


And yes I would be interested in seeing the updated pictures.


----------



## hellerbrewing

No, the only one that is zero space is the one that the receiver is currently sitting on. I got that to put my 1909 on while I waited for the custom shelf to come out (I edited my last post in case you missed it). I probably should have gotten the RSH shelf by itself to begin with but oh well. I'll probably find some use for the zero space shelf somewhere. The rest of them were ordered as the RSH set. I decided to take up most of the space on the lower half of the rack that you cannot see with some 4 space latching drawers with the DVD media inserts. I figure if I ever need to expand down the road I can pull these out and sell them. The rack is a 37 space slim 5


----------



## ecrabb

Theater was mostly "finished" two years ago. We watched movies for nearly a year-and-a-half, then I actually got off my ass and finished most of the details last fall before I hosted my first meet. Still lots of little projects everywhere I look, but this is the current state of things.


I have a lot of work to do with wiring _outside_ the rack - phone, satellite, Cat-5 and RG-6 runs to the rest of the house... I just can't get motivated to do that stuff... I just keep watching movies instead. Huh.


SC


----------



## hellerbrewing

WOW, nice looking rack. Does that 360 ever get overheated in there?


Do you guys take these pics yourselves? They almost look professional. I have a hard time getting decent pics of my rack with the low amount of lighting in the basement, even with my Nikon D70.


----------



## ecrabb

Thanks! I haven't had any problems with overheating the PS3 or 360... yet. I'm not a hardcore gamer - just the occasional hour or two with Halo 3, Forza or GT5 - maybe once a month or something. The PS3 and 360 definitely kick out some heat, though. They run hot just sitting idle.


That was a bit of trickery to get the nice front rack shot: A long exposure and waving a utility light around! Seriously! The illumination in my room is not very even; it would have looked like a black hole in the corner without some supplemental lighting. That shot was f/18 and 10 seconds @ ISO 200. The long exposure gave me time to use the utility light to "wash" the area with soft light. Wave it all around (yes, you'll look like a dork) to avoid harsh shadows. It'll take a few tries to get a nice soft-looking light without reflections or hard shadows, but it works. Stop down for good DoF, focus well, and use a remote shutter release. Get creative! Experiment!


Here's another shot I took of the front panel on my prepro using the same $10 aluminum painter's light:










Strobes and diffusers would be better, but most people don't have that equipment (or the room to set it all up). I have the equipment, but no room. OTOH, almost everybody has a camera and a basic tripod. If you don't have a remote shutter release or only have a manual camera, use "night mode" and the self timer.


You can take some great shots with a cheap point and shoot and a plastic tripod if you're willing to experiment.


Back to rack talk...


SC


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecrabb* /forum/post/16573478
> 
> 
> That was a bit of trickery to get the nice front rack shot: A long exposure and waving a utility light around! Seriously! The illumination in my room is not very even; it would have looked like a black hole in the corner without some supplemental lighting. That shot was f/18 and 10 seconds @ ISO 200. The long exposure gave me time to use the utility light to "wash" the area with soft light. Wave it all around (yes, you'll look like a dork) to avoid harsh shadows. It'll take a few tries to get a nice soft-looking light without reflections or hard shadows, but it works. Stop down for good DoF, focus well, and use a remote shutter release. Get creative! Experiment!



Awesome! I never thought of the painting with light trick. I'll have to give that a shot, I have the equipment just not the knowledge.


----------



## kcdude24

I have been trying to find the post that showed some problems with roughing in for a MA Slim5. Does anyone have the dimensions? How much space should I allow outside the outer dimensions of the rack for drywall, corner bead, mud etc?


----------



## TomsHT

Semi-finished with the faceplates, still waiting on one shelf/faceplate that isnt currently available for my cablebox but other then that, its done and wow it makes a big difference.


I'm not sure if it was worth the $800 I put into just the new shelves/faceplates & drawers (not including the actual rack) but again it does make a big difference and im glad I did it. Below are before and after pics.


----------



## TheCableMan

ecrabb what kind of wood did you use on your rack trim. I like the grain and color. Thanks


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kcdude24* /forum/post/16600749
> 
> 
> I have been trying to find the post that showed some problems with roughing in for a MA Slim5. Does anyone have the dimensions? How much space should I allow outside the outer dimensions of the rack for drywall, corner bead, mud etc?



The dimensions can be found here . I did not put any drywall around the back of my rack, I left it completely open. I just framed it in to fit and let the front of the rack protrude out a little bit past the sheetrock so that I would have something to butt the trim up to.


----------



## ecrabb

Oops... I missed your question, CableMan. The trim in the theater matches the trim in the rest of the house - all hard maple with a clear finish.


SC


----------



## TheCableMan

Thanks ecrabb. It looks good i might have to steal your idea.


----------



## ecrabb

You're welcome! It's definitely not a cheap wood, but I love the look. Feel free to steal away!


If you go to the right lumber supplier, some will let you pick through the stock to find your favorite pieces. Depending on whether you like the look (or not) you can choose or avoid the figured ("curly") pieces. I loved that look, so I grabbed a few pieces specifically for a stair rail and the shelf face pieces. I think it gives the pieces a kind of "custom furniture" feel since you usually see bird's eye and curly maple in furniture and musical instruments.


Cheers,

SC


----------



## tghodge

Im trying to finish up my rack with custom faceplates for my SRSR MA rack. I still need to order faceplates for my PS3, Xbox360, Scientific Atlanta 8300HD and an Emotiva UMC-1 (when avbl). Does anyone know how many U's these specific faceplates are? I would assume the Emotiva will be 3 or possibly 4, but was told that it should be somewhat the same size of their previous Pro's. I only have 14 U's left if I want to keep my 4u DVD cabinet otherwise I can lose it and have 18.


----------



## TomsHT

I know the PS3 takes up 3 units, also if you download the mid atlantic rack tools software it allows you to create a diagram from all available components. For instance it allows me to a PS3 component with faceplate and using the measurement tool tells me that faceplate now took up 5.25" which equates to 3 units.


----------



## TomsHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/16626704
> 
> 
> Im trying to finish up my rack with custom faceplates for my SRSR MA rack. I still need to order faceplates for my PS3, Xbox360, Scientific Atlanta 8300HD and an Emotiva UMC-1 (when avbl). Does anyone know how many U's these specific faceplates are? I would assume the Emotiva will be 3 or possibly 4, but was told that it should be somewhat the same size of their previous Pro's. I only have 14 U's left if I want to keep my 4u DVD cabinet otherwise I can lose it and have 18.



I added all your components (PS3, Xbox, 8300) into the rack tools software and they all appear to be 3 unit faceplates except the UMC-1 which wasnt available.


----------



## hellerbrewing

Also, you can use the MA RSH search engine . This will tell you if there is a shelf available and how many spaces it is.


----------



## TomsHT

Im kinda surprised they cant get proper measurements directly from the manufacturers and want customers to mail in there components if there not already listed. I have a fairly common cable box (pace tdc779x) that has been on the market for at least a year now and im surprised its not available in there listings.


----------



## tghodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16626847
> 
> 
> I added all your components (PS3, Xbox, 8300) into the rack tools software and they all appear to be 3 unit faceplates except the UMC-1 which wasnt available.



Thanks!! I didnt realize there was software out there that would have helped. Appreciate the info.


----------



## TomsHT

You can download it for free at racktools.com.


----------



## ^bunk

nice rack ecrabb


----------



## wordgasm

Well I've bought most of the gear and cables, finally decided the best location for my rack, but now I need some real rack knowledge before I order the rack.


I have the option of usinig rack rails or getting a slim 5-43


What I'm not sure of is the depth of rack to purchase.


Here's what will be in the rack.


Home server w/ears 2U Norco 2008 8 bay hotswap 25.5" deep

Lian-Li 4U HTPC rackmpount case w/ears- 21" deep

Onkyo M282P Amps (x2) w/ears

The rest will be A/V gear with MA Custom Shelf/Faceplates

(AV Receiver/HD Radio Receiver/2 Sat DVRs/XBox60/Media Shelf/Misc Gear Shelves/16 port rack mount gigabite switch (mount on the back side on the rack)/Patch panels on backside of rack


Should I get a 20"deep rack, 26" deep, just rails at the front and back, but how deep?


I'm confused, any thoughts or help?


I'm hoping to start installation in a week, so I need to make a decision and place an order.


(I haven't bought side rails yet for the HTPC and server, not sure if I need them). (Do the server/HTPC/Onkyo Amps need back rails and side rails? Just back rails? or just the ears)


Many Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## TomsHT

Is it 20", I thought it was only 19 but perhaps thats the shelf depth Im thinking of. Anyway my rack is only 19-20 in depth and I dont think any of the components besides the receiver are above 12" so its plenty of room


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/16689407
> 
> 
> Should I get a 20"deep rack, 26" deep, just rails at the front and back, but how deep?



What is behind the rack? Do you have extra room? Are you thinking of putting anything on the back side? I went with the 20" deep rack. I put a network switch and patch panels for network and speaker wire. With the 20" depth I had to arrange it so my shortest components were on the other side of the switch/patch panel. I think a slim-5 rack would definitely make things easier but you can save alot of money going with the rails.


----------



## nojstevens

Some great looking projects - good inspiration!

I am looking for an xbox 360 rack mount kit - can anyone point me in the right direction?


Thanks


Jon


----------



## TomsHT

Im not sure what ya mean Jon but if you have a mid atlantic rack, you can get a shelf & faceplate that fits the xbox360


----------



## nojstevens

Ok thanks. I don't have a middle atlantic rack, but I think it is compatible. I will call them and see what I need. You are right - I want the shelf and faceplate


Jon


----------



## hellerbrewing

Pick the type of shelf you want here . Searach for the component you want to mount here . In the comments section of your order from performance audio paste in the part number from the middle atlantic site, in the case of an anodized shelf for the xbox 360 it would be RSH4A3S MICROSOFT XBOX360.


You can order from other places but I have had good luck with performance audio because of a recommendation of someone in this thread. I think their prices are pretty competitive as well.


If you are patient, you can put in a saved search on ebay for something like "middle atlantic 360." It will email you every time one comes up for sale. I got mine on ebay for half the new price and I have seen others come up as well. The 360 is a pretty common component.


----------



## thenish03

@ ecrabb


Do you have a thread showing pics of your completed theater? The pic of the rack makes me want to see how good the rest of the theater is. (I tried doing a search but didn't have any luck.)


Thanks


----------



## whiskey alpha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thenish03* /forum/post/16699582
> 
> 
> @ ecrabb
> 
> 
> Do you have a thread showing pics of your completed theater? The pic of the rack makes me want to see how good the rest of the theater is. (I tried doing a search but didn't have any luck.)
> 
> 
> Thanks




Yeah come on slacker..where are your updated theater pics







??


----------



## nojstevens

Thanks for your input on the Xbox - I have two options now.

Jon


----------



## 3DollaBillz

Hello,

How many U's is the PS3 Rack mount with the face plate? I havent been able to find out and would appreciate an answer.

Thanks.

Jeff


----------



## TomsHT

3 unit shelf for the PS3 with faceplate


----------



## hellerbrewing

You could always check the RSH Search Engine .


----------



## 3DollaBillz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16749957
> 
> 
> You could always check the RSH Search Engine .



Well, there it is! Thanks for the link. I was able to get a price for one but for the life of me not find any specs.



Hey Tom,

Thanks for the answer!


----------



## TomsHT

Also you can go to racktools.com and download the free software program which allows you to diagram your mid atlantic rack and each of the selves. You select the manufacter and model of the component you want to add along with the face plates and it will automatically add it to the diagram and show the size and units it takes up.


----------



## tghodge

I also posted on the dedicated preamp thread, but so far no response. Does anyone know if there is an Onkyo PR-SC886 faceplate for MA racks? I have looked at the MA database and its not listed. There is a PR-SC885P and an Integra DHC-9.9 which I think is supposedly the same unit. I think the 886 has been out for 6 to 7 months, so I would have thought a FP would be avbl for it. Any ideas or by chance anyone own an Onkyo PR-SC886 and have a custom FP?


----------



## hellerbrewing

I am guessing that you will have to wait till someone finally sends one in to have a faceplate made or you can send yours to them. It took quite a while for them to release a faceplate for the denon avr-1909 that I have.


----------



## TomsHT

tghodge check out http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1043676&page=2 Chris says if you send him the dimensions he will see the faceplate gets made.


----------



## hellerbrewing

I am thinking about moving my HTPC into my rack and am trying to decide on a good case ($100-250 range). What do those of you that have them racked use for a case? Can you link to pics or post some?


----------



## tghodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16753769
> 
> 
> tghodge check out http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1043676&page=2 Chris says if you send him the dimensions he will see the faceplate gets made.



Thanks Tom. I just spoke with Chris and he specified how to take the measurements so they can have it custom made. Of course I am impatient and wont get the pro until next week and then have to wait even longer for the FP. I am pretty close to ordering the Integra 9.9 as everything I have seen says its 100% the same box as the Onkyo, but then Chris mentioned that the feet height are sometimes different and that would throw off the opening. Argh!


----------



## TomsHT

Anything special about how to take the measurements? I think im gonna have to do the same for my cable box... (but better then before when they were asking us to mail in the components...). How exact are they being with the component feet in regards to fractions of an inch? Also did he mention a time frame for the custom plates (im also impatient)?


----------



## tghodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16754407
> 
> 
> Anything special about how to take the measurements? I think im gonna have to do the same for my cable box... (but better then before when they were asking us to mail in the components...). How exact are they being with the component feet in regards to fractions of an inch? Also did he mention a time frame for the custom plates (im also impatient)?



Basically said take the width and depth to the most precise measurement you could. With regards to height, he said take the body height (without legs) and then the full height with legs/feet. I got the impression the more accurate the measurement you can take, the more custom the fit. Sounded like they could turn around a custom plate pretty quickly, but did not give me an exact timeline. I assumed only a few days, but would probably need to follow up with him again to be sure.


----------



## TomsHT

thanks and note that the screws dont come with the faceplate so order them too...


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16754004
> 
> 
> I am thinking about moving my HTPC into my rack and am trying to decide on a good case ($100-250 range). What do those of you that have them racked use for a case? Can you link to pics or post some?



I'm using this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811112147 . I wanted 2 DVD drives, one is the BluRay for the HTPC and one via ESata is the BluRay drive for the rackmount WHS (2U, 8 bay hotswap, Norco 2008, if ya need to know)


Jeff


----------



## wordgasm

HI,


Im installing my rack this week and as I was drilling holes for all the cables I noticed alot of cool air coming from the crawl space under the house (it was 90 today). I was thinking of putting an air intake in the floor is this a bad idea? We get alot of rain, but the crawl space is plastic lined, and never seems damp. I will be venting to the attic with a heat rise themostat.


If not the crawl space, house air or garage air?


Thanks


Jeff


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/16757181
> 
> 
> HI,
> 
> 
> Im installing my rack this week and as I was drilling holes for all the cables I noticed alot of cool air coming from the crawl space under the house (it was 90 today). I was thinking of putting an air intake in the floor is this a bad idea? We get alot of rain, but the crawl space is plastic lined, and never seems damp. I will be venting to the attic with a heat rise themostat.
> 
> 
> If not the crawl space, house air or garage air?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Jeff



I have seen this in older homes, built 60 to 100 years ago. They would have a closet in the kitchen where the bottom was open to to the craw space. I was covered with hardware cloth to keep out the pest. I was used to keep food cool. There was always a steady stream of cool air coming up from the crawl space.


But that was long before Central air conditioning.


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/16761802
> 
> 
> I have seen this in older homes, built 60 to 100 years ago. They would have a closet in the kitchen where the bottom was open to to the craw space. I was covered with hardware cloth to keep out the pest. I was used to keep food cool. There was always a steady stream of cool air coming up from the crawl space.
> 
> 
> But that was long before Central air conditioning.



I was just curious! If there is nothing wrong with the concept, I was a thinkin, might be a good option other than venting conditioned air to the attic, still on the fence!


My home is 3 years old so as far as themal quality goes, it can't be terrible


SO opinions, crawl space conditioned or garage air? I'm at D-Day!


Thanks


Jeff


----------



## wordgasm

Okay so I'm installing my rack, (cheapo version) bought MA rack rails. Read that the outside dimension 19 1/8 is critical, so I've spent some time achieving this. Built one side wall, waited for the rails, installed with blank filler plates, got the 19 1/8" top to bottom both front and back, then framed in the opposing wall. Then I came in the house tonight and measured my server, it's 19 3/16's ! Am I missing something? Am I being too anal? (that happens!) I projected the rails out a 1/4" so there would be something for the trim to butt to. Feel like I'm missing something, and want the wood trim to fit well..


Hopefully a quick answer, Im slapping the rest of the closet together tomorrow, Friday.


Thanks


Jeff


----------



## kcdude24

For all of those who built their own racks that are a basic box w/fixed or adjustable shelves...how do you hide the wires in the back if you want to leave the rear open for heat dissipation? I was thinking about building my own and leaving plenty of head room above the receiver and xbox...but that will leave some visible space and wires will be seen if I leave the back open. Any suggestions?


----------



## malmeyer

Hi guys. This thread has been very helpful. I believe the MA RK20 is the rack for me. My framer comes out very soon to start on my unfinished basement and I need to make sure I know how much room in between studs I need to install this rack. Sounds like 19" is not enough. Is 20" too much? If I add trim afterward I guess I can cover up any gaps on the side.


Also, are the faceplates mainly for show? Or are they also used to block out the light from behind the rack? I might have to forgo the faceplates due to the budget. Although it sounds like it is more expensive if I change my mind later and buy them without the shelf. I have a couple smaller components that could share one shelf so that wouldn't work with a faceplate.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## lucifers_ghost

I would just like to say that some of you people make me want to vomit lol


The talent, dedication, vision and a whole host of other words is incredible.


Im just starting the reno is my basement. I have a plan of what I want the end result to be. Perhaps it is the self esteem kicking in but MAN, I dont think it will be anything like some of the stuff here.


From a rookie, my hats off to all of you.


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lucifers_ghost* /forum/post/16764637
> 
> 
> I would just like to say that some of you people make me want to vomit lol
> 
> 
> The talent, dedication, vision and a whole host of other words is incredible.
> 
> 
> Im just starting the reno is my basement. I have a plan of what I want the end result to be. Perhaps it is the self esteem kicking in but MAN, I dont think it will be anything like some of the stuff here.
> 
> 
> From a rookie, my hats off to all of you.



Well good luck to you! Be prepared for the journey!


My "Vision" changes daily, my list of questions grows longer every day and my quest grows longer, because the budget gets bigger and that means another month(s) till the end game (if there is one).


$43.00 for Shims! Isn't there a washer that is .063 thick? Isn't there a hinged access panel, hinged (inside) with a latch that sits flush with the other panels? (MA would sell boat loads of them!) For Xbox 360 / Sat DVR - the gear that's ugly or changes often ----- NOPE!


Now I want one of the new iPod / iPhone Media Shelf / Docks in case someone brings their iPod over with a song I just have to hear!


The quest continues .............


Good Luck again!!


Jeff


----------



## TomsHT

Shoot I started out just wanting to get a large flat screen tv.... It just sort of grew... honestly...


----------



## mwardncsu

I know the feeling..... boy do I know the feeling....


----------



## jdholmes

I'm sure there isn't a way to say this without sounding mean, but guys...this is a "SHOW ME" thread...many of us subscribe to this thread so we can get updates to our email when new pictures are up. Please, let's cut the chatter - save it for a different thread or for PM's. No offense meant - hope you have a great day...I'm just getting peeved with constant updates from this thread without new pictures.


----------



## TomsHT

Wow and here I thought it was a discussion forum....


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16776558
> 
> 
> Wow and here I thought it was a discussion forum....



+1


jdholmes, have you taken a look at how slowly this thread moves? ...and you are worried about a little chatter here and there?


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/16757163
> 
> 
> I'm using this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811112147 . I wanted 2 DVD drives, one is the BluRay for the HTPC and one via ESata is the BluRay drive for the rackmount WHS (2U, 8 bay hotswap, Norco 2008, if ya need to know)
> 
> 
> Jeff



So I take it you do not have this mounted yet since it sounds like you are in the process of building your rack. Are you going to use the included rack rails with the case? I would be interested to see what they look like when mounted. Be sure to post some pics when you get that far.


----------



## jdholmes

For the sake of not adding to the amount of chatter here, this will be my last post on the matter, simply to make things more clear.


However - I will respond. This is a discussion forum, however these "SHOW ME" threads have been set aside as picture specific threads in order to /display/ the work of the builders on the forum, whether it be screens, stages, completed theatres, or racks. So while this is a discussion forum this thread is not designated for discussion or questions. That's what the rest of the forum is for.


And in response to one poster, as of late it has not been chatter 'here and there'. There has been fairly consistent chatter/questions. Further to that, it really doesn't matter how slow the thread is moving - its purpose remains and the thread doesn't need any 'bumping' by useless chatter, as it is highlighted forever at the top of the 'Dedicated Theater and Design Construction' page. A reminder was, I feel, prudent as to the purpose of this thread. To post pictures of 'completed racks'.


It was not my intention to flame or get flamed, it was a simple request. There is a whole forum out there for you to post questions and discussions on whatever topic you please, or because some are chatting back and forth you can PM each other and save us all from having to read it.


I will not respond further, and hope that this post doesn't gather any further flame - I simply want to make things clear. I also hope this 'rackless' chatter doesn't further annoy anyone who has been in the same boat as I.


----------



## smokinghot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdholmes* /forum/post/16776538
> 
> 
> I'm sure there isn't a way to say this without sounding mean, but guys...this is a "SHOW ME" thread...many of us subscribe to this thread so we can get updates to our email when new pictures are up. Please, let's cut the chatter - save it for a different thread or for PM's. No offense meant - hope you have a great day...I'm just getting peeved with constant updates from this thread without new pictures.



+1


Thread title is "show me your rack", not "rack building FAQ".


I (as well I'm sure those with opinions similar to mine and jd) understand that it's easier to quote and ask questions to members who have completed their racks and posted within this thread. However it does de-rail it's intended purpose.


I'm also sure that pointing out this fact won't change anything, but at the minimum jd will know he's not alone in his disapproval.


----------



## kcdude24




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kcdude24* /forum/post/16762987
> 
> 
> For all of those who built their own racks that are a basic box w/fixed or adjustable shelves...how do you hide the wires in the back if you want to leave the rear open for heat dissipation? I was thinking about building my own and leaving plenty of head room above the receiver and xbox...but that will leave some visible space and wires will be seen if I leave the back open. Any suggestions?



Can someone post more rear pics of their open/closed back DIY rack build?


----------



## hellerbrewing

The downside to weeding out discussion would be that people would be asking the same questions over and over via pm. Posting the discussion allows others to read over what has already been asked. Maybe someone could start the rack building discussion thread but it would seem difficult to keep this thread and the other tied together.


----------



## smokinghot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16776891
> 
> 
> The downside to weeding out discussion would be that people would be asking the same questions over and over via pm. Posting the discussion allows others to read over what has already been asked. Maybe someone could start the rack building discussion thread but it would seem difficult to keep this thread and the other tied together.



Although I guess this isn't helping the situation







I can understand your point. .....and simple, direct questions I don't see as a problem. However it's the endless back and forth, and general inquiries that I believe are the issue.


As far as keeping a discussion thread attached to this one... I don't see why it needs to be.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdholmes* /forum/post/16776538
> 
> 
> I'm sure there isn't a way to say this without sounding mean, but guys...this is a "SHOW ME" thread...many of us subscribe to this thread so we can get updates to our email when new pictures are up. Please, let's cut the chatter - save it for a different thread or for PM's. No offense meant - hope you have a great day...I'm just getting peeved with constant updates from this thread without new pictures.



I agree, there are several other threads for discussion, let's see some pictures of your racks!


----------



## wordgasm

To keep this a Show Me thread, could all of you, who have already built your rack, suggest a thread or two of people that have actually built their racks so that myself or others in the process and those starting their plans can get answers to questions without repeating mistakes, ordering the worng materials, etc, and learn from those that have been down the path.


I just chattered here, because I wanted advise from those that were proud of their racks, (those that post pictures)


Thanks


Jeff


----------



## TomsHT

Actually there is a whole photo gallery section to AVS if you wish to go somewhere to look at pictures without discussing the subject however this topic does actually happen to be in the discussion forum.


----------



## smokinghot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16780030
> 
> 
> Actually there is a whole photo gallery section to AVS if you wish to go somewhere to look at pictures without discussing the subject however this topic does actually happen to be in the discussion forum.



So what's your point. All of the "Show Me" threads are located within discussion forums.


There isn't a section in the Gallery that's specific to racks, or any other particular part of a HT construction. That's why the "Show Me" threads have been created by the members. So there is a quick and easy reference to examples, and it's also the reason why there is a sticky at the top of this forum to find them. The referenced "Show Me" threads don't need to be bumped by chatter.


Endless pages of non-picture posts are what kill "Show Me" threads. I'm confused as to why when someone posts outside the OP's intended topic anywhere else in AVS it's frowned apon. But for some reason that unwritten rule doesn't apply here.


For the record...:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lynchmob723\\* /forum/post/9474020
> 
> *Show me your RACK*
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Of equipment of course. Preferably in theater/room
> 
> 
> Im looking for ideas/*pictures*



With all that said, I refuse to be apart of the problem any further.


----------



## TomsHT

My point was exactly stated, there is a gallery section for photos without discussion and this is a thread about photos in a discussion forum so logically discussion should be expected to take place here...


----------



## UberDave

This thread needs more pictures! I just completed my cabinet/rack install last week; here's how it turned out. I don't have much in the way of quality equipment but you have to start somewhere. This is my first dedicated theatre area so I'm pretty pumped that it's almost finished!


From this (ikea cabinet bought off kijiji; not my car in the background







):










To This:


----------



## hellerbrewing

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TomsHT* 
tghodge check out http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1043676&page=2 Chris says if you send him the dimensions he will see the faceplate gets made.
You can also send your measurements or component to MA directly. I'll see if I can attach it later, I can't seem to get it to work now.


Edit: It is attached.


Edit: Nevermind it appears you still need to purchase through a vendor.

 

MAsub.doc 395k . file


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/16228400
> 
> 
> Gare:
> 
> The racks are a work of art. You must have countless hours invested in them. Must be tough to leave them. Again the wireing is absolutely beautiful!!!!



I agree, I wish I had my wiring done so neatly. Gorgeous!


----------



## GPowers

Robertr has a very ingenious DIY rack made out of unistrut and angle iron. The unistrut makes up the vertical rails. The angle iron is bolted to the unistrut to support the shelves. Simple, inexpensive and effect.











here is his thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=887603


----------



## Spizz

Some nice setups and giving me ideas for mine.


One question though. Where are those with Network Switches putting them? Mounted around the back of the rack?


----------



## hellerbrewing

I have a 24 port netgear on the back of my rack that is open to the laundry room. I have the whole house network tied into a patch panel above it. One thing though, the 24 port has noisy fans although I have not really noticed them now that the rack is filled in on the front. It might have been better to get 2 12 port switches without fans and tie them together.


----------



## zuesmaximus












--- my AVrak installed in custom wall unit. AVrak slides out & spins in both directions, very helpful to get to back of equipment. It was a pain to pull 12ft x 7ft custom wall unit out.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/16819521
> 
> 
> Robertr has a very ingenious DIY rack made out of unistrut and angle iron. The unistrut makes up the vertical rails. The angle iron is bolted to the unistrut to support the shelves. Simple, inexpensive and effective.



Man, I'll say. What a great idea.


Frank


----------



## KingLeerUK

I thought I would share my current rack progess, which is actually just a small portion of my overall home wiring project.


In keeping with the spirit of the thread, I bring pictures to the party.

*Goals:* The overall goal for the home wiring project is to relocate all network, satelite and home theatre equipment into a central wiring closet for ease of distribution, overall cleaner living space (I'm finally past the LOTS OF BLACK BOXES phase in my life). I also wanted to the ability to centrally manage all of the network runs and had tired of having a pile of network odds and ends hanging off my desk and onto the floor of my office. I also wanted the ability to have network connections available at any point in the house behind a television to allow for Roku box usage.


I also despise wireless and avoid it if at all possible.

*Scope:*

31 Network Drops (CAT6)

RG6Q video distribution

Component Video runs (x3)

Optical Audio runs (x4)

Analogue Audio runs (x3 stereo)

7.2 Speaker Distribution + 2 channels for bass shakers

*Effort:*

Pulling all of the wire took a couple of months of weekends/nights in order to work in the attic when it was tolerable. I did all of the work myself, finally putting an HTI+ certification to good use.


























I'm using a Monoprice 12 space wall rack, one side set into studs for support. The RG6Q and CAT6 pulls come down inside the wall and exit via dual low-voltage passthrough plates. Tight fit. Terminating everything took MANY hours.

*True Story:* Every single CAT6 drop tested out perfectly the first time. Every.Single.One.


All of the coax is RG6 quad shield, which is more than a tad unweildy to work with. All of the runs terminate in a 24 port plate from Monoprice, in which I have F-type coax keystone inserts. This allows me to bring the outside satelite "in" from outside and run it to any room in the house that I want.










I'm using two CAT6 patchbays from Monoprice, one 24 port and another 12 port as I found I was being too conservative in my drop-count.










Here is a close-up of the rack. I'm using a 24-port Netgear gigabit switch, which I got for an excellent price + rebate card.


The blue network patch is temporary. Eventually all connections between the switch and the patchbays will be done with 2 ft CAT6 patches.


The two empty spaces will house a single rack shelf and a rack-mount UPS from Cyberpower. The rack shelf will have my cable modem and Gigabit router affixed via double-sided tape. Everything plugs into the UPS, which itself plugs into the new 15-amp circuit pulled to the top of the closet. (visible in some pictures).


That takes care of the top of the closet.


The bottom of the closet will eventually house a 42 space rack for the actual home theatre equipment, NAS box and power protection devices. All will either be rackmount devices, or will be seated on rackmount shelves. This rack will be on casters to allow for ease of access to be back of the equipment.


I've already pulled all of the video and speaker connections which can be seen in the next photos.


Apologies for the mess.



















The plate on the left-hand of these photos actually terminates just above on the wall rack. I wanted to avoid having wires running down the wall from one rack to the other for as clean a look as possible.


These photos do not show the HDMI runs (35 ft each), for which I used Monoprice silver-plated 22g HDMI wire.


As soon as the rack is completed (I am building it to a custom depth for this closet) I will post additional photos.


----------



## Weasel9992

Nice...that looks great!


Frank


----------



## detzx

Little off topic but where is the best place to find a nice glass door for a 21u build-in wall rack?


----------



## gjvrieze




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/16830348
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a close-up of the rack. I'm using a 24-port Netgear gigabit switch, which I got for an excellent price + rebate card.



I love the wiring job on that wall rack! Nice job!


----------



## hellerbrewing












The bottom of the rack has the MA drawers with the DVD inserts. I'll probably need to get another one as the bottom has some empty space.


The emitter for my harmony 890 sits on top of my right surrond speaker where it can hit the entire rack.










The wiring still need some work. Once I have decided that everything is in its final place I will terminate everything to length. I am currently working on building a new HTPC that will go in the rack.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by GPowers
> 
> 
> Robertr has a very ingenious DIY rack made out of unistrut and angle iron. The unistrut makes up the vertical rails. The angle iron is bolted to the unistrut to support the shelves. Simple, inexpensive and effective.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Weasel9992* /forum/post/16828842
> 
> 
> Man, I'll say. What a great idea.
> 
> 
> Frank



Thanks! My goal was to get as much of the Middle Atlantic custom metal look as I could without the cost. Unistrut and angle iron is cheap, VERY strong and infinitely adjustable.


----------



## TomsHT

31 network drops.... is this still for a home theater or a company filled with computers? Sheesh and I thought my rack was tech oriented with a 12 port switch for internet connections.


----------



## hellerbrewing

My attempt at the light painting technique.


----------



## KingLeerUK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomsHT* /forum/post/16833608
> 
> 
> 31 network drops.... is this still for a home theater or a company filled with computers? Sheesh and I thought my rack was tech oriented with a 12 port switch for internet connections.



It's for a house. Every room has at least 2 network drops, with the offices having 4 and 8. I also pulled a pair of drops to the garage (who knows right?), and a pair for security system usage. My theatre rack will have a few devices that need network connectivity; a QNAP NAS box, Squeezebox Duet (planned), Blu-ray player - so I put 5 drops there to accomodate current needs and future expansion.


Understand that I have 3 computers in one office, another computer and a networked printer in the other. I chose the path of possibly having too many drops than too few.


Having so many also allows me to use an HDMI>CAT6 balun in the future if I ever need it. And if a future owner ever needs to run POTS, the CAT6 will easily handle it.


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/16834351
> 
> 
> It's for a house. Every room has at least 2 network drops, with the offices having 4 and 8. I also pulled a pair of drops to the garage (who knows right?), and a pair for security system usage. My theatre rack will have a few devices that need network connectivity; a QNAP NAS box, Squeezebox Duet (planned), Blu-ray player - so I put 5 drops there to accomodate current needs and future expansion.
> 
> 
> Understand that I have 3 computers in one office, another computer and a networked printer in the other. I chose the path of possibly having too many drops than too few.
> 
> 
> Having so many also allows me to use an HDMI>CAT6 balun in the future if I ever need it. And if a future owner ever needs to run POTS, the CAT6 will easily handle it.



So where are you planning on putting the RG6 splitters and amps so that you can distribute the sat/cable/ant feeds to each room?


I'm doing something similar that you are doing and I've been looking like crazy for a rackmoutable RG6 amp but I have not been able to find anything suitable. Instead I've been planning on simply mounting the splitters and amps I have on a couple of MA's Utility panels (MA-UP1), so I'm curious to learn what your plans are.


/Anders


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/16834351
> 
> 
> It's for a house. Every room has at least 2 network drops, with the offices having 4 and 8. I also pulled a pair of drops to the garage (who knows right?), and a pair for security system usage. My theatre rack will have a few devices that need network connectivity; a QNAP NAS box, Squeezebox Duet (planned), Blu-ray player - so I put 5 drops there to accomodate current needs and future expansion.



I have been adding alot of network outlets as well. I use unshielded Cat5e though, it is much easier to work with. We live in a multilevel house with nothing run to the upstairs bedrooms. I think cable was added downstairs as an afterthought. When we were tearing apart the upstairs bathroom I was able to put in a chase that goes from the laundry room where the rack is all the way up to the attic above the bedrooms on the upper floor with an access in the garage. I now have access to just about any room in the house and have just been adding the wiring as I go. this also allowed me to put an HD antenna in the upper attic which runs down to the HDHomerun in the above pics. I also have 2 wires run to the garage for an MP3 player. I try to run things in pairs in case I need them. Patch panels and cable are cheap on ebay.


----------



## KingLeerUK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andersa* /forum/post/16834523
> 
> 
> So where are you planning on putting the RG6 splitters and amps so that you can distribute the sat/cable/ant feeds to each room?
> 
> 
> I'm doing something similar that you are doing and I've been looking like crazy for a rackmoutable RG6 amp but I have not been able to find anything suitable. Instead I've been planning on simply mounting the splitters and amps I have on a couple of MA's Utility panels (MA-UP1), so I'm curious to learn what your plans are.
> 
> 
> /Anders



I don't currently have a need to run splitters and amps in my system since I've recently downsized the scope of my Dish Network system. My coax patch panel would allow me to run signals to a splitter and back out to the various rooms of the house quite easily though.


Here is a quick Visio sketch of how the system is currently setup.











It's very basic, using the patch panel as a simple pass-thru/routing system. The beauty is, that as with the CAT6 panels, I've overbuilt to allow for future expansion and routing options. If I ever do need to patch in additional gear, I have 5 dedicated runs to/from the rack, and the rest feed to keystones in panels throughout the house.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detzx* /forum/post/16831018
> 
> 
> Little off topic but where is the best place to find a nice glass door for a 21u build-in wall rack?



It's been a while since I've looked, but I know Middle Atlantic used to carry clear and smoked glass doors.


Frank


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/16834933
> 
> 
> 
> It's very basic, using the patch panel as a simple pass-thru/routing system. The beauty is, that as with the CAT6 panels, I've overbuilt to allow for future expansion and routing options. If I ever do need to patch in additional gear, I have 5 dedicated runs to/from the rack, and the rest feed to keystones in panels throughout the house.



OK, thanks for the explanation.


----------



## jetski

I searched all over, does anyone have a photo of the MA Slim 5 Rack with the skirted base???


----------



## Spizz

Should I use one of those MA Vent plates between 2 set top boxes (Satellite box and PTV Box), and also one above a Receiver?


----------



## TomsHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/16973452
> 
> 
> Should I use one of those MA Vent plates between 2 set top boxes (Satellite box and PTV Box), and also one above a Receiver?



I dont think its neccessary to put a vent between each & every component. On my rack, I have a single 2 shelf vent plate and the only reason thats there is to cover blank space for a future component.










I think the faceplates themselves already ensure there is enough room between components. If your having any further issues with overheating past that, then ya autta looking into an exhaust/fan system to be installed


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/16973452
> 
> 
> Should I use one of those MA Vent plates between 2 set top boxes (Satellite box and PTV Box), and also one above a Receiver?



I vent between power amps/pre amps...anything that generates a lot of heat.


Frank


----------



## jstdoit1112




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UberDave* /forum/post/16782416
> 
> 
> This thread needs more pictures! I just completed my cabinet/rack install last week; here's how it turned out. I don't have much in the way of quality equipment but you have to start somewhere. This is my first dedicated theatre area so I'm pretty pumped that it's almost finished!
> 
> 
> From this (ikea cabinet bought off kijiji; not my car in the background
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To This:



WOW you still have and original xbox? mine died after eight months. lol jk

great idea on the ikea make-shift rack its great


----------



## AVA-SF

Just thought I would show some photos of a clean up project we finished recently. The giant mess is the before photo.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVA-SF* /forum/post/17008886
> 
> 
> Just thought I would show some photos of a clean up project we finished recently. The giant mess is the before photo.



Nice job man.


Frank


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVA-SF* /forum/post/17008886
> 
> 
> Just thought I would show some photos of a clean up project we finished recently. The giant mess is the before photo.



Beautiful job - I'd love to see the before pics.

The extra fasteners make a big difference.


Some close-ups of the back would be useful.


----------



## ctbundy

very nice rack hellerbrewing.


How wide is the opening to install your rack and where did you get it from. I have an opening in my wall that is 55" high X 19" Wide. I was going to construct my own face plates but those Middle Atlantic racks just look so Damn Hot!!


----------



## GPowers

I you want to see some over the top racks, check out the article attached to this thread


----------



## Rmassey

I have moved past Rackzilla and built myself a proper wiring closet.


Total size is 41 rack spaces

(1 wasted due to covering feet on my power amp, so 40 rack spaces total)


Yeah, I've been busy - take a look...


+ more rack parts are on order and more photos to come...


Before picture - using RackZilla to hold HT gear










Open space with wires home run










Framing wiring closet










Drywall is up / Door is hung










Drywall is done










Finish work is done










Started loading HT gear










I have a 4u rack drawer, another shelf and some blank panels on order to finish things up. I am debating if I want a monitor in the top of the rack or save the space for future expansion.

*updates - 8-26-09*


Finished Rack










Wide view showing side door










Gear (Top to bottom) -

Furman Pwr / HD-Tivo(S3) + 1 TB eSata HD / Mag DVD-R / Oppo 983 / Panamax 5100 / Velo- SMS-1 / Integra 9.8 Pre / Sherbourn 7/2100










Rear view / Wire mess - I'm working on it...










I have one more slotted panel coming to put below the pre for better air flow, Quiet Panny fan is also on my TODO list.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ctbundy* /forum/post/17014923
> 
> 
> very nice rack hellerbrewing.
> 
> 
> How wide is the opening to install your rack and where did you get it from. I have an opening in my wall that is 55" high X 19" Wide. I was going to construct my own face plates but those Middle Atlantic racks just look so Damn Hot!!



Thanks! I am not sure of the exact dimensions of the opening but middle atlantic has the dimensions of the racks here .


Here's a link to my post again.


When we put it in, we made the opening just a little bit larger than the rack. I put a few blank panels in the rack as well as the one that came with it and then we shimmed it in tight and screwed the rack to the framing through the shims. When we trimmed it out we just butted the trim right up to the faceplates to give them a nice tight fit. Only thing I should have done differently was that we framed it the same height of the empty door frame that we put in next to it. We probably shold have installed the door jamb first so that we could have framed the rack to the same height of the door jamb. We did not think about the width of the jamb and how it would make the trim a different height. We ended up using oak door stop for trim on the rack so it would be a little different and the height difference would not be as noticeable. I think it looks pretty good this way and I don't think anyone really notices the difference now.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17032136
> 
> 
> I have moved past Rackzilla and built myself a proper wiring closet.
> 
> 
> Total size is 41 rack spaces
> 
> (1 wasted due to covering feet on my power amp, so 40 rack spaces total)
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've been busy - take a look...
> 
> 
> + more rack parts are on order and more photos to come...



Nice rack!


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17032136
> 
> 
> I have moved past Rackzilla and built myself a proper wiring closet.
> 
> 
> Total size is 41 rack spaces
> 
> (1 wasted due to covering feet on my power amp, so 40 rack spaces total)
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've been busy - take a look...
> 
> 
> + more rack parts are on order and more photos to come...



Nice looking Rmassey!


Question: how is the closet vented?


/Anders


----------



## Rmassey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andersa* /forum/post/17032487
> 
> 
> Nice looking Rmassey!
> 
> 
> Question: how is the closet vented?



Yes, venting is on my TODO list. I am looking into a quiet Panasonic fan to mount in the ceiling. My space is limited because in the ceiling/soffet just above the closet is HVAC, but I think I have ~ 10" to work with. I was going to finish up the rack and get the front panels and check the temp/airflow.


Panny Fan:
http://www.panasonic.com/business/bu...sper-green.asp 


Also, I want to add a permanent overhead light + switch, so that's two electrical items on my TODO list.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17032136
> 
> 
> I have moved past Rackzilla and built myself a proper wiring closet.
> 
> 
> Total size is 41 rack spaces
> 
> (1 wasted due to covering feet on my power amp, so 40 rack spaces total)
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've been busy - take a look...



Wow...nice job man.


Frank


----------



## wordgasm

Hi,


I'm starting to do the cable management and connections for my rack and I have a couple questions.


1.) A lot of the racks I see pictures of, the A/V connections coming from the theater (Speaker wires, HDMI, Subwoofer) are going into a patch panel or wall jacks, then to the gear. Is there a compeling reason for this? I would think the least amount of connections the better. (I can leave a loop of spare cable under the house or in the attic if I had to move the gear.)


2.) Network connections for gear "in the rack". Should I run directly to the network switch or run them thru a patch panel. I can see both sides for this one?


3.) Is there a need for patch panel connections (A/V, RG6, etc) inbetween the gear "in the rack"?


4.) Can I run the ""IR" Eye/Jack cords on the same side of the rack as the power or could there be interference?


5.) If I'm using 22AWG HDMI cables to Display and other gear, should I use port savers at the gear AV receiver, HTPC, etc for sure?


6.) I've heard, my Digital OTA antenna (UHF/VHF) will pick up HD radio also, is this true? (Don't have a HD Radio receiver yet)


Note: My 45 space rack will be full and all the gear is placed for usability and access (visual and physical) usage, and heat mangement, so I don't see the individual gear units getting moved much.


Thanks for your time


Jeff


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17069718
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm starting to do the cable management and connections for my rack and I have a couple questions.
> 
> 
> 1.) A lot of the racks I see pictures of, the A/V connections coming from the theater (Speaker wires, HDMI, Subwoofer) are going into a patch panel or wall jacks, then to the gear. Is there a compeling reason for this? I would think the least amount of connections the better. (I can leave a loop of spare cable under the house or in the attic if I had to move the gear.)
> 
> 
> 2.) Network connections for gear "in the rack". Should I run directly to the network switch or run them thru a patch panel. I can see both sides for this one?
> 
> 
> 3.) Is there a need for patch panel connections (A/V, RG6, etc) inbetween the gear "in the rack"?



I put patch panels in the rack primarily for organizational purposes. I didn't want to put another termination in the speaker wires so I stripped the outer sheath off my monster XPHPCI and ran each individual wire through the speaker terminal keystone jack and terminated the end. It also saved from having to buy more banana plugs. I did terminate the HDMI and coax in the patch panel though.


For the RJ45 I terminated all of the runs from the rest of the house in a patch panel that was right above the 24 port netgear switch. I plan on running cat5e down the side of the rack and terminating to length right at the switch. Would not really matter if you did it either way, I just thought it was a good way to keep things seperate.


I would like to know about the HD radio thing as well. Interesting question


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/17069802
> 
> 
> I put patch panels in the rack primarily for organizational purposes. I didn't want to put another termination in the speaker wires so I stripped the outer sheath off my monster XPHPCI and ran each individual wire through the speaker terminal keystone jack and terminated the end. It also saved from having to buy more banana plugs. I did terminate the HDMI and coax in the patch panel though.
> 
> 
> For the RJ45 I terminated all of the runs from the rest of the house in a patch panel that was right above the 24 port netgear switch. I plan on running cat5e down the side of the rack and terminating to length right at the switch. Would not really matter if you did it either way, I just thought it was a good way to keep things seperate.
> 
> 
> I would like to know about the HD radio thing as well. Interesting question



To me its scary...... Ive got 12 network connections in just the rack (well with a couple futures)..... I have a 24 port switch also .... but Im sure thats enough .. everything is in the rack and then wireless


Jeff


----------



## Rmassey

FYI - I updated my photos above in post #642, check it out


----------



## whiskey alpha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17070729
> 
> 
> FYI - I updated my photos above in post #642, check it out



Nice work.. It looks like you next project should be some built in shelving for the dvd's


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17070729
> 
> 
> FYI - I updated my photos above in post #642, check it out



Nice. Those are the shiniest rack drawers I've ever seen.


Frank


----------



## Rmassey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Weasel9992* /forum/post/17072816
> 
> 
> Nice. Those are the shiniest rack drawers I've ever seen.



Thanks, prob due to the camera flash, but I did wipe all the fingerprints off before I took the photo











> Quote:
> Nice work.. It looks like you next project should be some built in shelving for the dvd's



nah, I keep telling myself to stop buying media... problem is I don't listen











Funny story.... my wife paid me the ultimate compliment and said

"Looks good... they should just build these into all houses" - I love it.


----------



## whiskey alpha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17073834
> 
> 
> nah, I keep telling myself to stop buying media... problem is I don't listen



Good for you. When I mentioned to my wife that I was running out space to store my blu-ray, she said maybe I should stop buying them. While that is grounds for divorce in some states, I decided to just built this. Plenty of room now.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmassey* /forum/post/17070729
> 
> 
> FYI - I updated my photos above in post #642, check it out



Very nicely setup.


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17069718
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm starting to do the cable management and connections for my rack and I have a couple questions.
> 
> 
> 1.) A lot of the racks I see pictures of, the A/V connections coming from the theater (Speaker wires, HDMI, Subwoofer) are going into a patch panel or wall jacks, then to the gear. Is there a compeling reason for this? I would think the least amount of connections the better. (I can leave a loop of spare cable under the house or in the attic if I had to move the gear.)
> 
> 
> 2.) Network connections for gear "in the rack". Should I run directly to the network switch or run them thru a patch panel. I can see both sides for this one?
> 
> 
> 3.) Is there a need for patch panel connections (A/V, RG6, etc) inbetween the gear "in the rack"?
> 
> 
> 4.) Can I run the ""IR" Eye/Jack cords on the same side of the rack as the power or could there be interference?
> 
> 
> 5.) If I'm using 22AWG HDMI cables to Display and other gear, should I use port savers at the gear AV receiver, HTPC, etc for sure?
> 
> 
> 6.) I've heard, my Digital OTA antenna (UHF/VHF) will pick up HD radio also, is this true? (Don't have a HD Radio receiver yet)
> 
> 
> Note: My 45 space rack will be full and all the gear is placed for usability and access (visual and physical) usage, and heat mangement, so I don't see the individual gear units getting moved much.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time
> 
> 
> Jeff



Is there another thread or forum that any of you know of to get questions answered that are rack specific?


Thanks


Jeff


----------



## wordgasm

Well, I made some progress this weekend. Learned some things. Know things I would do different. But overall happy. 3/4's of the rack done and happy.

Not totally happy with connections and "connection loops" but that's another weekend, year, never! (Don't know if I could do better unless I did it daily, but I'll try, I'm sure!)


The SMC (white panel to the left, is going away, I found a better way)


Anyone want to trade some MA 1u lacing rails for some 2u? (Hey I'm new, I didn't knnow better!), see photos you'll understand.


Hope you enjoy! Still a way to go....


Jeff


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17137376
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want to trade some MA 1u lacing rails for some 2u? (Hey I'm new, I didn't knnow better!), see photos you'll understand.



I found that just a simple lacing bar works great, they allow easy access to the back of your equpment, as they are simply a bar.


----------



## Scopeguy

I agree with GPowers, the lacing bars seem to work great.










Greg


----------



## Happytobehere200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/17138720
> 
> 
> I found that just a simple lacing bar works great, they allow easy access to the back of your equpment, as they are simply a bar.



Any suggestions on where to buy them?


----------



## flyng_fool

Right here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


----------



## bmackrell

I'll add a *+1* for lacing bars. I recently added them to the back of one of my racks and it gives you more places to anchor cables. You can get creative on how you route your cables. You may need longer cables in some cases if you choose to reroute them.


Another plus is that with HDMI cables you can tie down them down so they stay perpendicular to the equipment and don't droop down.


Just added picture of the bottom half of the rack. I didn't have any other pics available to post. You can see that there are lacing bars running vertical as well as horizontal. I decided I needed anchor points along the side to bundle the cables to.


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17137376
> 
> 
> Well, I made some progress this weekend. Learned some things. Know things I would do different. But overall happy. 3/4's of the rack done and happy.
> 
> Not totally happy with connections and "connection loops" but that's another weekend, year, never! (Don't know if I could do better unless I did it daily, but I'll try, I'm sure!)
> 
> 
> The SMC (white panel to the left, is going away, I found a better way)
> 
> 
> Anyone want to trade some MA 1u lacing rails for some 2u? (Hey I'm new, I didn't knnow better!), see photos you'll understand.
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy! Still a way to go....
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff,


What do they call that cabinet between the studs to the left of your rack? I was looking for something similar, though much smaller, for a project I am helping my parents with. I know I have seen those before but I could not remember what they were called and could not find them.


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/17139900
> 
> 
> Jeff,
> 
> 
> What do they call that cabinet between the studs to the left of your rack? I was looking for something similar, though much smaller, for a project I am helping my parents with. I know I have seen those before but I could not remember what they were called and could not find them.



It's a Structured Media Center for Sructured Wiring, mine is made by Channel Vision. one site http://www.home-technology-store.com/ 


For rack mounting Structured Wiring they also have thesse http://www.buy.com/prod/channel-visi...203973266.html I'm taking out the SMC and getting these swing out rack mounts and installing a secondary 79" 4" deep Rack" in the side wall of my AV rack to access my cabling for future and for the structured wiring and components


Jeff


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/17138720
> 
> 
> I found that just a simple lacing bar works great, they allow easy access to the back of your equpment, as they are simply a bar.



Appreciate the tip (and the link below) I may change my mind after I've had the rack for a while and have to change things around (this is my first rack build), but I like the "Cables Hidden" look. Only the terminations visible and access to the back of each piece of gear. (But the 2u lacing rails are too much!)


But like I said, I'm sure there is a reason all you guys like the bars so I probably will to in the future.


Jeff


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Happytobehere200* /forum/post/17138945
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on where to buy them?



What you want is the MA LBP-1.5 Most places sell them in a 10pack. This place Altex sell them by the each.


----------



## bmackrell

I purchased all my lacing bars from StayOnline.com . I just bought of a few of each size since the best fit will depend on the depth of each piece of equipment.


Try emailing Doug Harrison.

Doug Harrison

Stay Online Corp www.stayonline.com 
[email protected] 

919-510-5464 x111 v

919-510-5466 f
Good Luck.


----------



## flyng_fool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/17140872
> 
> 
> What you want is the MA LBP-1.5 Most places sell them in a 10pack. This place Altex sell them by the each.



How can they charge almost $7 for what is basically a small metal rod with holes at the end and then charge $3 for a stamped piece of metal with a bunch of slots cut in it? Seems like the slotted bar would take a lot more manufacturing.


----------



## Tedd

The slotted bar is likely stamped and then folded. Pretty simple to machine manufacture.


The round lacing bars look pretty simple to DIY.










I will second the recommendation of StayOnline.com. Excellent service!


----------



## wordgasm

I think all my plans and rack setup may have just changed reading news from CEDIA. CableCards (no OEM) Dishnetwork Cards, Global Cache's new little gizmo for IP/WiFi ...remotes, Ah the wonder of it all!


----------



## govschmo

bmackrell, nice pic of the back showing the plates and 360 look from that side.


Where is the power brick mounted?


----------



## bmackrell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *govschmo* /forum/post/17159991
> 
> 
> bmackrell, nice pic of the back showing the plates and 360 look from that side.
> 
> 
> Where is the power brick mounted?



It's mounted down below out of view of this photo. It's hard to see in this photo because I had to install a cooling fan onto the back of the rack to help circulate air over the sub triad sub amps. I found they would overheat after extended play due to being at the bottom of the rack and there didn't seem to be enough airflow over the cooling fins on the heatsinks. the older middle atlantic RSH shelves didn't have the ventilated sides like the newer ones.


----------



## ctviggen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17070245
> 
> 
> To me its scary...... Ive got 12 network connections in just the rack (well with a couple futures)..... I have a 24 port switch also .... but Im sure thats enough .. everything is in the rack and then wireless
> 
> 
> Jeff



12 network connections for the rack? What's in all of those? To me, that seems like a lot, but then I guess every piece of gear now has a network connection, whether needed or not.


----------



## wordgasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ctviggen* /forum/post/17160968
> 
> 
> 12 network connections for the rack? What's in all of those? To me, that seems like a lot, but then I guess every piece of gear now has a network connection, whether needed or not.



Well, here they are ......


Networked Gear in the Rack


Modem

Router

Receiver (future, next amp)

Squeeze Box Controller #1

Squezze Box Controller #2 (Future)

HD Homerun Dual Tuner #1

HD Homerun Dual Tuner #2

HTPC

Server

UPS (for computers/switch/router)

XBox

Sat #1

Sat #2

Media Extender (M-Bedroom)

Global Cache GC-100 18R


Jeff


----------



## aramb

Just finished up the rack wiring this afternoon. It is not as neat as some racks I have seen in this thread. I think I will need to build custom interconnects in order to make it look better. The cables I am using are so stiff it is hard to get them to bend.


----------



## bmackrell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17169587
> 
> 
> Just finished up the rack wiring this afternoon. It is not as neat as some racks I have seen in this thread.



It looks pretty nice to me. Great Job!


----------



## ctviggen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wordgasm* /forum/post/17163186
> 
> 
> Well, here they are ......
> 
> 
> Networked Gear in the Rack
> 
> 
> Modem
> 
> Router
> 
> Receiver (future, next amp)
> 
> Squeeze Box Controller #1
> 
> Squezze Box Controller #2 (Future)
> 
> HD Homerun Dual Tuner #1
> 
> HD Homerun Dual Tuner #2
> 
> HTPC
> 
> Server
> 
> UPS (for computers/switch/router)
> 
> XBox
> 
> Sat #1
> 
> Sat #2
> 
> Media Extender (M-Bedroom)
> 
> Global Cache GC-100 18R
> 
> 
> Jeff



That's a lot of stuff! I see where our racks are different -- I have a separate location that has my server/HT computer, modem and router. I only have one Squeezebox (a modified version). I believe I'll have a receiver, Squeezebox, Satellite/Tivo, and game console. For these, I'll probably use a 4-port switch to a single Cat5e connection, since the receiver and sat/Tivo don't need the connection much and I'm not a huge gamer.


----------



## Happytobehere200

I gotta ask, did you pick your equipment so that all the LED's were the same color and then match the paint to them? It looks outstanding!!


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Happytobehere200* /forum/post/17175897
> 
> 
> I gotta ask, did you pick your equipment so that all the LED's were the same color and then match the paint to them? It looks outstanding!!



I just got lucky! Thanks!!!


----------



## mjfoster77

I'm just starting to have my basement / media room started. I want to use some type of in wall av rack. Are most of you guys using mid atlantic racks? It looks expensive, but realy sharp. I have like 6 or 7 components, my question is what rack do I need. Also do you guys use the face plates to cover equipment or do you use a glass door, or nothing. Thanks


----------



## Happytobehere200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjfoster77* /forum/post/17224445
> 
> 
> I'm just starting to have my basement / media room started. I want to use some type of in wall av rack. Are most of you guys using mid atlantic racks? It looks expensive, but realy sharp. I have like 6 or 7 components, my question is what rack do I need. Also do you guys use the face plates to cover equipment or do you use a glass door, or nothing. Thanks



All of the racking systems (including accessories) are pretty expensive but they do look cool. FOr 6 ro 7 items you might want to look at alternatives. If you look through this thread you'll see other ideas that are more DIY. Maybe not the same clean front as a rack, it will be more like shelves with equipment, but there are some very pretty ones that will do the job and cost a lot less. All depends on what you want to spend and your skill level.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Happytobehere200* /forum/post/17225076
> 
> 
> All of the racking systems (including accessories) are pretty expensive but they do look cool.



Of course, with this hobby, "pretty expensive" is a relative term. A Middle Atlantic (or equivalent) rack can be a good "investment" in an industry riddled with constant upgrades. Your rack will be the one item that will endure all the equipment changes over the years, IMHO.


----------



## markjwebb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jetski* /forum/post/16956920
> 
> 
> I searched all over, does anyone have a photo of the MA Slim 5 Rack with the skirted base???



Take a look at this
http://www.middleatlantic.com/specs/96_037SLIM5.pdf 


P.S. If you're looking for a cheap plexi glass door, DOP-5-29 for the Slim 5 or a brushed black anodized faceplate for the PS3 (80GB, 4 USB) send me a PM since I didn't end up using the ones I bought when I put together my slim-5 rack.


----------



## Spizz

Thanks to everyones help here. Just finished the Front of my MA Slim 5 43-Space Rack-











Very happy with it.


Next cable management around the back of the rack.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/17258672
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyones help here. Just finished the Front of my MA Slim 5 43-Space Rack-



Looks great!


Frank


----------



## Spizz

Thanks mate.


----------



## Spizz

Now that the front of my rack is done it's time to do the dreaded cable management around the back.


Have spent most the weekend doing the Cable Management around the back. Around 2/3rds of the way through and thought I post my progress pictures-



































Nearly there.


----------



## aramb

Really nice job on the cable management, Spizz. Those are some impressive power cables you have there!


Aram


----------



## flyingvfreak

Nice stuff in here! How do you all keep it cool, I noticed you can stack components on top of each other cause of heat. I fried my Directv box that way, So how do you keep them cool specially the Built in ones, That seem like it makes alot of heat!


----------



## morevideoplz

Speaking of heat, how hot is that AVR that you had to blank out the serial #'s on rear tag(on both photos)? Sorry do you fear "ID" theft from a manufactures tag.I'm just nosey,had to ask? Things must be different down under...


----------



## Spizz

No its not the serial I blanked out but the MAC address for the network in case someone tries to hack it or the network its on, etc. Better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17298882
> 
> 
> Really nice job on the cable management, Spizz. Those are some impressive power cables you have there!
> 
> 
> Aram



Thanks Aram. I used some photos in this thread for inspiration for Cable Management


----------



## Weasel9992

Well done! I love seeing good cable management...the devil's in the details, as they say.


Frank


----------



## tghodge

Finally finished up my rack a few weeks ago. Not the best pics in the world, but should show some of the detail work and all the velcro!!. 42U MA pullout rack. From top to bottom; SA 8300HD Cable box, PS3, Sonos ZP90, 4U DVD utility drawer, Onkyo SR886, Wii, Apple TV, Belkin Power Conditioner, Emotiva XPA-5.


----------



## Joelc

Looks nice...one suggestion, get some trim for the sides and bottom of the rack so tat one can not see the screws from the front...


----------



## morevideoplz

Spizz I am truly sorry for my remarks.Maybe it was late and I am not very"digital".And I'm very old in some ways.My first HT was back in 1980,one,two or three,80"diag,laser& four channels full range(years ahead of Dolby)...Sorry


----------



## tghodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/17305387
> 
> 
> Looks nice...one suggestion, get some trim for the sides and bottom of the rack so tat one can not see the screws from the front...



I had not put the bottom trim piece back on before taking some pics, but wasn't aware there was some side trim pieces. How would that work with the custom panels? Maybe i need to look back in this thread if others have those side pieces.


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/17305947
> 
> 
> I had not put the bottom trim piece back on before taking some pics, but wasn't aware there was some side trim pieces. How would that work with the custom panels? Maybe i need to look back in this thread if others have those side pieces.



MA sells trim pieces that include small cups that go under the screw heads. You put a handful of these cups on each side and the trim piece snaps onto them effectively hiding all the screws. It's a small thing, but after you've put them on it looks much more finished.


----------



## tghodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/17306274
> 
> 
> MA sells trim pieces that include small cups that go under the screw heads. You put a handful of these cups on each side and the trim piece snaps onto them effectively hiding all the screws. It's a small thing, but after you've put them on it looks much more finished.



I looked back through this thread and couldn't find an example of the side trim pieces. Is anyone using them and can show an example?


----------



## Scall

Here's my rack. It will be a while before it's mounted with equipment.


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/17307143
> 
> 
> I looked back through this thread and couldn't find an example of the side trim pieces. Is anyone using them and can show an example?



i'll try to take some pictures, I'm using them.


----------



## mjfoster77

I wasn't able to find anything on here about star case. They seem to be nice, and just a little bit cheaper then mid atlantic. Any input would be appreciated


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/17306274
> 
> 
> MA sells trim pieces that include small cups that go under the screw heads. You put a handful of these cups on each side and the trim piece snaps onto them effectively hiding all the screws. It's a small thing, but after you've put them on it looks much more finished.



I think that's actually the Raxxess FSK finishing kit .


----------



## bmackrell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dododge* /forum/post/17336406
> 
> 
> I think that's actually the Raxxess FSK finishing kit .



Middle Atlantic makes them also. I have looked at getting them in the past but have not yet pulled the trigger.


Link >>> Middle Atlantic Trim Strips.


----------



## KingLeerUK

I finally have gotten around to completing my rack, which is the final major step in my install process.


Originally, I was looking into using an off-the-shelf solution but I was not able to find anything that met my space requirements. I needed a rack solution that would fit into a 21" width space, and still allow me to have at least 34 rack spaces for equipment and blanking panels. I wanted to have integrated rear-rails to allow for cable management and the whole assembly had to be on casters to allow it to be pulled out of a tight closet arrangement. The rack could also be no more than 58" tall.


And so behold... my custom rack.

     

    

     


Construction is primarily 1"x4" framing with lots of reinforcing hardware. The base is made from a "plank" of 2"x4"s. The casters are extremely heavy duty, 500lb rated. The various mesh sections were obtained from a parts surplus store, as were the rack rails.


The whole project was DIY, assembled in my garage with power hand tools and a miter saw. It's finished with numerous coats of black latex enamel, with each part getting 2 coats prior to assembly and then touch-up coats thereafter.


Once the rack is fully loaded you won't be able to see the "rough" interior, and the rack will primarily live in a closet anyway.


----------



## Cathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/17336432
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic makes them also. I have looked at getting them in the past but have not yet pulled the trigger.
> 
> 
> Link >>> Middle Atlantic Trim Strips.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/17444445
> 
> 
> And so behold... my custom rack.



Really, really nicely done.


Frank


----------



## KG1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hellerbrewing* /forum/post/16571979
> 
> 
> Yeah, my figure does not include the 2 custom shelves, the zero space shelf, faceplates and cable managers I already have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks better than this now, I have it all trimmed out. I'll post some better pics once I get the rest of the stuff put in and situated.
> 
> 
> I had to wait forever for the Denon 1909 shelf to be added to their database. I tried to get denon to send them a unit but they just laughed at me (more or less). I don't really think the techs and denon could take accurate enough measurements for something that precise. I'm sure there is some trial and error involved as alot of the faceplates have curves and such.



Hi Guys,

What splendid racks on display here, I can only hope to achieve similar result.

I am attempting to do something similar to what hellerbrewing above is doing:


I have a media room whose back wall is shared with a closet in the adjoining room. It's a big closet. I want to put in a Slim 5 MA 37 space rack in there with the faces of the components showing in the media room, just like you have...

I was thinking of ordering the following:

Rack - http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=1949 - $270

+

4 of these custom faceplates+shelves:
http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=2225 - $102ea


since I have the following devices:

Denon 3310 - 5 space

PS3 - 3 space

Toshiba HD-A3 - 2 space

Dish HDDVR VIP722 - 3 space


Questions:

1) Would I need anything else besides the above parts? like screws and such, i am not sure if they are included?

2) I am going to have a carpenter make the appropriate cut in the closet wall (since my studs are 16" apart and this would involve cutting a stud out and building a header -> way over my head) and am also going to have him put the trim around it (in the media room). I am not sure how exactly is the rack attached to the wall? I mean, are the front rack rails mounted to the wall? If so, then wouldn't this cover up the holes for attaching the custom faceplate?

If not, then does the rack just sit there without being fixed to the wall? is the rack going to remain stable like this?

From your photo, it looks like the rack is free-standing? can you confirm?

3) Does the custom rack shelf above include the shelf and the custom faceplate? or just the shelf? i think it's both, but just want to confirm..


Thanks in advance,

KG


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KG1* /forum/post/17453373
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1) Would I need anything else besides the above parts? like screws and such, i am not sure if they are included?
> 
> 2) I am going to have a carpenter make the appropriate cut in the closet wall (since my studs are 16" apart and this would involve cutting a stud out and building a header -> way over my head) and am also going to have him put the trim around it (in the media room). I am not sure how exactly is the rack attached to the wall? I mean, are the front rack rails mounted to the wall? If so, then wouldn't this cover up the holes for attaching the custom faceplate?
> 
> If not, then does the rack just sit there without being fixed to the wall? is the rack going to remain stable like this?
> 
> From your photo, it looks like the rack is free-standing? can you confirm?
> 
> 3) Does the custom rack shelf above include the shelf and the custom faceplate? or just the shelf? i think it's both, but just want to confirm..
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> KG



1) You would need to get rack screws, I picked up a huge jar on ebay. Probably need other stuff to fill in the extra spaces, blanks or whatever.

2) We framed in the front giving just a little bit space all the way around. Making sure we had some blanks screwed in we shimmed it up on all sides and screwed it into the frame through the shims. We let the front rails protrude out from the sheetrock a little bit so that we has something to butt the trim up to. Make sure you have a few faceplates or blanks spread out down the rack when you trim it up, this will allow your carpenter to trim it up nice and snug. I thought I put some finished pics in here somewhere. We also build a base to support the bottom so that the wall was not the only thing holding it up. Basically just have a 2X4 across the back side with 2 legs going down to the floor.

3)That is the shelf and the faceplate.


I hope it goes well for you. I glad I could be the inspiration for someone elses rack!







BTW, that is the exact size rack that I used. Let me know if you need any extra help/pics.


Edit: Here's another post I made earlier about framing it in. I almost forgot about it.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KG1* /forum/post/17453373
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I was thinking of ordering the following:
> 
> Rack - http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=1949 - $270
> 
> +
> 
> 4 of these custom faceplates+shelves:
> http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=2225 - $102eaKG



Just a tip mate. I would place individual orders for the shelves as you can use a $5 coupon on each order aswell as the free shipping. And with the rack use a $15 coupon to. PM for the codes if you would like.


----------



## KG1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/17258672
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyones help here. Just finished the Front of my MA Slim 5 43-Space Rack-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with it.
> 
> 
> Next cable management around the back of the rack.



I am going back and forth on MA Slim 5 37 space on casters vs it being on the floor (without casters) and show the faces through the closet wall to the other side in the media room.

If I did go with casters (so as to reduce costs of cutting the closet wall and putting trim on the media room side of the closet wall), i wanted to ask, are the casters fine with a fully loaded rack?

I called Doug at stayonline and he told me the slim 5 rack is not well suited for casters...?


KG


EDIT: Spizz, thanks for the tip, but I think I found stayonline to be cheaper (even after the coupon)...


----------



## pokerrx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/17305947
> 
> 
> I had not put the bottom trim piece back on before taking some pics, but wasn't aware there was some side trim pieces. How would that work with the custom panels? Maybe i need to look back in this thread if others have those side pieces.



Very clean look. What are your room dimensions? We are building a house with a bonus room above the garage and the builder wants to use 2' knee walls. I was thinking of at least 4' knee walls so I can have at least some wall space for posters. My room will be 18'x24' sloping up to 9' ceilings in the middle 4' of the room.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KG1* /forum/post/17476463
> 
> 
> i wanted to ask, are the casters fine with a fully loaded rack?



As long as you pull it forward from the middle of the rack which I have done several times then no issues here.


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/17485509
> 
> 
> As long as you pull it forward from the middle of the rack which I have done several times then no issues here.



Probably should use heavy-duty casters with nice bearings and not the little cheapies too.


Frank


----------



## dvmiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/17444445
> 
> 
> I finally have gotten around to completing my rack, which is the final major step in my install process.
> 
> 
> And so behold... my custom rack.
> 
> 
> Once the rack is fully loaded you won't be able to see the "rough" interior, and the rack will primarily live in a closet anyway.




Nice work King! I've thought about doing a DIY rack myself and it's nice to see someone else's work to see it really is possible. For me yours looks as good as the others on this thread. I am saving your post to help with mine. Please post the final pics and one when it's in place.


Thanks, Dale


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Weasel9992* /forum/post/17486738
> 
> 
> Probably should use heavy-duty casters with nice bearings and not the little cheapies too.
> 
> 
> Frank



I used the MA ones on my Slim 5 rack and they were definetly not cheap


----------



## OJ Bartley

KingLeer, I'm with Dale 2 posts above me. That is an awesome job you did! I would like to build something like that for my own theatre when we get around to finishing the basement, so I'll be saving your pics for reference, and eagerly awaiting installation photos too.


P.S. Where did you source all the hardware? Is it MA parts, or something else?


----------



## Sherardp

Some real nice setups in here. Here is my temp solution I use out here in Japan. Nice stands to say the least.


----------



## Caspyr

Mine doubles as a 2 channel room. We have a blackout that sits in front of the rack during movies. Mac's give off lots of light  Still waiting on some smaller "side tables" for the extra gear.


----------



## CJO

That's some nice equipment!


CJ


----------



## MikeWalters

Here is a simple cabinet-style I designed for a customer. He wanted small and simple with a slot for his centre channel speaker. The closest thing we could find off a shelf was nearly $1200. This only cost him about $200 in parts. That's the MDF, 2-pairs of rackrails, the rackshelves, etc. It is not completed just yet, there is a subwoofer power amp that will be mounted below the Onkyo receiver, but you get the idea.

Attachment 159678


----------



## KingLeerUK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OJ Bartley* /forum/post/17588447
> 
> 
> KingLeer, I'm with Dale 2 posts above me. That is an awesome job you did! I would like to build something like that for my own theatre when we get around to finishing the basement, so I'll be saving your pics for reference, and eagerly awaiting installation photos too.
> 
> 
> P.S. Where did you source all the hardware? Is it MA parts, or something else?



I'm not sure what brand the rack rails are. They are the type that requires clip-in inserts, which allows you to use a mix of 10-32 and 8-32 screws depending on the insert chosen. Several of the shelves ARE Middle Atlantic, as are all of my lacing bars and cable management loops (not pictured here). I had to cut the rack rails down to fit my design, and I still have the other portion of the rails (about 10 rack spaces in height). If someone is interested, PM me.


I bought almost everything hardware-wise from a local electronics and parts surplus store. Several of the shelves were quite the worse for wear, but it was nothing a bit of sanding and 3 coats of textured Rustoleum could not rectify. I also bought a few of the 2-space shelves from Monoprice.com. They were quite heavy duty, but I'm not thrilled with the front "lip" that they come with; it makes putting non-footed gear in them difficult (like my Samsung BD-P1600 with a front-flip down door).


I bought industrial casters, each rated at over 500 pounds (again from the surplus store). I had to design my rack such that about 1/2 of the casters were recessed, otherwise I was going to get that "tide's coming in" look.


For any of you comtemplating building your own, rack, know that the tolerances for spacing between the rack rails is critically important. Measure numerous times, and use "dummy" rack panels to maintain correct spacing during assembly. Also, if you can manage it, build your rack with both front and rear rack rails. Having rails on the backside of the rack makes it super easy to integrate additional gear you might not need direct access to (i.e. network patch panels, IR receivers) and solid mountings for cable management (lacing bars and rings).


At the moment, I'm strongly considering a rack panel on the rear of my rack with speaker binding posts and "leads" to the back of my receiver to make my connections between the wallplate and the rack neater and prevent stressing the connections on my receiver.


----------



## TreyS

Nice racks!!


So I'm looking to get a rack that will install in millwork but have rear access so no need for it to pull out and rotate. When I go to the Mid Atlantic website I get sensory overload. Not very easy to navigate...at least for me.


Can anyone suggest which rack would work for my needs? One that looks like this and can be accessed from the rear:











Thanks!


----------



## squigglyline

Anyone know what happened to Chris Knout from Stayonline/Buyrackgear? I was just informed he is no longer there... I was disappointed as he was a HUGE help to me this past summer when I purchased my rack...


----------



## TreyS

Anyone have the part number for that lacing bar? I'm messing around with RackTools and there are a few in there.


Thanks!


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

the M/A catalog is available for download also and it shows pics of all the lacing bars. Adding it to the racktools really does nothing in the program except add the cost, if you have access.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

BTW, that looks like Aram's rack and it is top notch ($$$)


----------



## TreyS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Goodcat* /forum/post/17628802
> 
> 
> the M/A catalog is available for download also and it shows pics of all the lacing bars. Adding it to the racktools really does nothing in the program except add the cost, if you have access.



Thanks, yes, I just wanted to add it in RT so I could run the Quote or PO and have everything together.


----------



## squigglyline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TreyS* /forum/post/17628451
> 
> 
> Anyone have the part number for that lacing bar? I'm messing around with RackTools and there are a few in there.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I *think* it's LBP-1A

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...blem.htm#lbars


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeWalters* /forum/post/17626544
> 
> 
> Here is a simple cabinet-style I designed for a customer. He wanted small and simple with a slot for his centre channel speaker. The closest thing we could find off a shelf was nearly $1200. This only cost him about $200 in parts. That's the MDF, 2-pairs of rackrails, the rackshelves, etc. It is not completed just yet, there is a subwoofer power amp that will be mounted below the Onkyo receiver, but you get the idea.



That is sweet looking man. Nice work.


Frank


----------



## dooomi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeWalters* /forum/post/17626544
> 
> 
> Here is a simple cabinet-style I designed for a customer. He wanted small and simple with a slot for his centre channel speaker. The closest thing we could find off a shelf was nearly $1200. This only cost him about $200 in parts. That's the MDF, 2-pairs of rackrails, the rackshelves, etc. It is not completed just yet, there is a subwoofer power amp that will be mounted below the Onkyo receiver, but you get the idea.
> 
> Attachment 159678



Man, that looks great. I can't wait to build mine.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TreyS* /forum/post/17628451
> 
> 
> Anyone have the part number for that lacing bar? I'm messing around with RackTools and there are a few in there.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Hi mate. They are the LBP-1A that I used-

http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/...oducts_id=2144 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squigglyline* /forum/post/17627797
> 
> 
> Anyone know what happened to Chris Knout from Stayonline/Buyrackgear? I was just informed he is no longer there... I was disappointed as he was a HUGE help to me this past summer when I purchased my rack...



He left Stayonline as I was going to order via them. But with him gone their pricing was to expensive. Luckily I found PerformanceAudio which also have $5 off $100 and $15 off $300 multiple use coupons with free shipping so I scored my gear from their.


The RSH4A Custom Rack Shelves cost me $96.42 shipped each which I was extremely happy with


----------



## Abs777

What is a good width for a rack? I am currently framing my HT room and want to keep this in mind.


----------



## MikeWalters




> Quote:
> Here is a simple cabinet-style I designed for a customer. He wanted small and simple with a slot for his centre channel speaker. The closest thing we could find off a shelf was nearly $1200. This only cost him about $200 in parts. That's the MDF, 2-pairs of rackrails, the rackshelves, etc. It is not completed just yet, there is a subwoofer power amp that will be mounted below the Onkyo receiver, but you get the idea.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dooomi* /forum/post/17636763
> 
> 
> Man, that looks great. I can't wait to build mine.



If you want the plans I can send/post them if it helps you at all with your own...


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Abs777* /forum/post/17640946
> 
> 
> What is a good width for a rack? I am currently framing my HT room and want to keep this in mind.



Standard rack width is 19".


Frank


----------



## KingLeerUK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Weasel9992* /forum/post/17641092
> 
> 
> Standard rack width is 19".




Rack _equipment_ is 19" width standard. The actual width of the rack will be some value larger than that, typically anywhere from 21" - 24" depending on make and model. In my experience with building a custom rack, the rails themselves will immediately add 0.5" to each side, and then whatever additional material that the rails mount to will need to be factored in.


----------



## Abs777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/17642026
> 
> 
> Rack _equipment_ is 19" width standard. The actual width of the rack will be some value larger than that, typically anywhere from 21" - 24" depending on make and model. In my experience with building a custom rack, the rails themselves will immediately add 0.5" to each side, and then whatever additional material that the rails mount to will need to be factored in.



Great. Thanks guys.


----------



## marklabelle870

Nothing it mounted yet - but I had to post the beginning. It's ERK-4025 40U Middle Atlantic.











With sides and a rear door:


----------



## Weasel9992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marklabelle870* /forum/post/17645103
> 
> 
> Nothing it mounted yet - but I had to post the beginning. It's ERK-4025 40U Middle Atlantic.



So far so good! Don't forget to repost when you get it loaded up.










Frank


----------



## SiEsMi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/9477226
> 
> 
> My Wife said she didn't want to look at equipment.




very nice


----------



## dooomi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeWalters* /forum/post/17640984
> 
> 
> If you want the plans I can send/post them if it helps you at all with your own...



That would be fantastic!

Also, what paint/technique did you use?

I'll PM you in case you don't check back on this thread.


----------



## towercontrol

Soon i shall have my pics up. but does anyone happen to have a Custom fit rack shelf for an Onkyo 875, or Pio 1014 AVR's ?? I'm aware i can get them made from M.A. but i just thought i'd see whats on here?


----------



## towercontrol

Trey S, thats sweet setup, and im laughin as im asking, Did you have to cut into your celing to make it fit? cause in my mind thats how its done. "Well the roof is to low,.. so get the saw" Well done!


----------



## hellerbrewing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *towercontrol* /forum/post/17758952
> 
> 
> Soon i shall have my pics up. but does anyone happen to have a Custom fit rack shelf for an Onkyo 875, or Pio 1014 AVR's ?? I'm aware i can get them made from M.A. but i just thought i'd see whats on here?



I have been able to pick up a decent amount of used stuff on ebay. You just have to be patient and keep checking.


----------



## TomsHT

Just replaced my PS3 with a newer PS3 slim model; also needed to replace the mid atlantic shelf & face plate due to the smaller size. If someone is interested in the old shelf & faceplate, send me a pm.


----------



## jlohojo7

just wondering but what is everyone doing for their cooling situation ? noticed alot of you guys have totally enclosed racks it has to be building alot of heat in there. I ask bc i started a new thread about my situation in this forum, there are pictures of my homemade rack.


joe


----------



## AVrackexpert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlohojo7* /forum/post/17760210
> 
> 
> just wondering but what is everyone doing for their cooling situation ? noticed alot of you guys have totally enclosed racks it has to be building alot of heat in there. I ask bc i started a new thread about my situation in this forum, there are pictures of my homemade rack.
> 
> 
> joe



^^


I would check out customavrack.com for questions or issues on cooling:

http://customavrack.com/Category/229...anagement.aspx 


They seem to be the Middle Atlantic rack gurus. They carry all of the Middle Atlantic fans and whatnot, plus they link to Middle Atlantic's thermal management calculator and cooling white paper at that page right there


As far as your statement about having totally enclosed racks goes, usually they do that with a combination of intake and exhaust fans. For instance, Middle Atlantic's CLS-COOL series has an intake fan panel that goes near the bottom, sucks up the cooler air from the floor, then the cool air passes over your equipment as it rises inside your rack. Then you use the CLS-COOL exhaust panel at the top to suck all of that warm air out. I think they have a diagram somewhere on their site that shows the different air streams


----------



## jenkman61

What is the model number of your rack?


----------



## jenkman61




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/17301950
> 
> 
> Finally finished up my rack a few weeks ago. Not the best pics in the world, but should show some of the detail work and all the velcro!!. 42U MA pullout rack. From top to bottom; SA 8300HD Cable box, PS3, Sonos ZP90, 4U DVD utility drawer, Onkyo SR886, Wii, Apple TV, Belkin Power Conditioner, Emotiva XPA-5.



What is the model number of the rack?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Goodcat* /forum/post/17628807
> 
> 
> BTW, that looks like Aram's rack and it is top notch ($$$)



Thanks, Justin!!!


Aram


----------



## chanline

Here are the two racks I've put together.


Main media room:

AXS pull out 26u MA Rack

-Hidden behind panels: Roku HD, Apple TV, Samsung QAM tuner, Sonos ZP90, ethernet switch, OPPO HDMI switch, xantech IR and harmony 900 RF blaster.

-Wii

-PS3

-XBOX 360

-Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD

-Pioneer Elite SC-27

-Belkin PF60


All driving 60" Pioneer Kuro.


Almost done:










Finished:










Here is the small slim-5 20u that has the whole house directv and IR distribution. IR setup still needs to be cleaned up. House was lacking in existing cables, with only 1 RG6 and 1 Cat5 run to each TV.

-2x ZeeVee ZvPro 250 QAM modulators

-2x Directv HR-22

-Belkin PF60


Mess of cables in the lower right is my home made adapters for using 2 pair in the Cat5 for ethernet and 2 pair for remote IR receivers.


----------



## JoshMKiV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chanline* /forum/post/17792045
> 
> 
> -2x ZeeVee ZvPro 250 QAM modulators



Chanline - I have yet to see someone on here talk about the Zv 250 or the Zv 150. Any chance you could give a little review?


The A/V Distribution & Networking forum is probably the appropriate place.


Thanks!!!


----------



## Quaid

Thanks everyone for the inspiration I've found in this thread. I'm working on an install and need help with the equipment rack decisions. If anyone from this thread can offer help, it would be really appreciated!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1211550


----------



## forced347

Best picture I have at the moment










Equipment is older stuff


Sony Da777ES

Adcomm GFA 5500 amp

Custom built speakers

BD80 DVD


----------



## MichaelCarey

I took some photos of my rack today. A true HT enthusiast rack, everything is a bit of a mess.



















HT Rack 2nd Jan 2010 


As you can see, I'm still red! Almost ready to go purple very soon!


Michael.


----------



## hellerbrewing

 CES 2010: Sanus Adds AV Racks To Foundations Product Set


----------



## Deepsky4565

Here is my rack in progress.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deepsky4565* /forum/post/17934539
> 
> 
> Here is my rack in progress.



It's coming together. OT- How do you find your D-Box?


----------



## Deepsky4565




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/17939807
> 
> 
> It's coming together. OT- How do you find your D-Box?



Do you mean how I like it, or how I found it for purchase? I've only had a demo in the store, and some temp use without a big screen. I was sold on the demo, but thought the price would keep it out of my system. This controller and two chairs were the demo system I had tried out a year before, and got it for a very good price. Not cheap by any stretch, but should be fun for action movies.


----------



## Abs777

For the people who built theirs into the wall, what dimensions are your openings?


----------



## hellerbrewing

I made mine slightly bigger than the slim-5 rack (dimensions can be found on middle atlantic's website) and then shimmed the rack in and screwed it through the studs through the shims. Trim covers the gap and it came out looking pretty nice.


----------



## Spizz

Has anyone got 2 Slim-5's side by side as I have already outgrown my 43-Space rack


----------



## arc trooper

heres my simple lil rack...


nvm lol pic didnt work


----------



## hellerbrewing

Attach it to the post then click on it and copy the url. You can use this URL to paste the image into the post via the little mountain icon.


----------



## sebberry

Tied this in with my kitchen reno:


----------



## zuesmaximus












just finished my MA rack in family room setup. need to finish the MA rack in the basement HT in the near future...

--Manny


----------



## TheCableMan

sebberry beautiful eq rack. Did you build that yourself or have it custom made by a company?


----------



## TJ7

Tied this in with my kitchen cabinets. While it's controlled from the hallway, the space is borrowed from a blind corner cabinet in the kitchen.


Omnimount RSF.5









[/IMG]


It wheels out to access wiring









[/IMG]


Cooling is through the open stud cavity at the header of the opening (no header stud) and a fan in the attic.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCableMan* /forum/post/18023552
> 
> 
> sebberry beautiful eq rack. Did you build that yourself or have it custom made by a company?



Thanks. The lower portion with the drawers was built with all the drawers and cabinets in the kitchen and the upper rack was built by my GC. Stud spacing in the wall was a perfect 21" for it to all slide right into.


----------



## fsullivan3

Nice racks, fellas.


I am still in the design phase, and was deciding on a remote for my equipment (which will be out of sight).


I might try the Monster AVL-300, which comes with an RF to IR bridge/blaster, and a couple 3.5mm emitters that I can place where I need.


Are you guys running a separate corded 3.5mm emitter for each device along the top/bottom of the equipment (if it does not have a 3.5mm input) and somehow attaching them to the ir receivers of the equipment?


The omnilink blaster has 2 3.5mm emitter jacks, and comes with 2 emitters. Can I run a splitter out of those jacks and connect as many emitters as I need? Can I use any brand of emitter that I can find?


Thanks.


----------



## Dean Coop

Here are a few of mine


----------



## Spizz

Wow. Nicely setup rack, and good cable management. Out of curiosty what Balanced cables are using?


----------



## Dean Coop

Thanks, I'm using Cardas Crosslink cables, the only Cardas cables that I am allowed to make in the field.


----------



## Brent A

Nice ! I like the drilled hole in the stud for each speaker wire, very clever.

I may have to "borrow" that one for mine.


I noticed that most people trim their racks out with window and door trim.

I was looking at where my rack is going to be in relation to the room. My baseboard will be painted and since it is very close to a corner I am thinking that trimming it out will make it look a little "heavy".

Has anyone tried to recess their rack into the wall a bit and then "wrap" and finish the drywall so that the finished and painted wall meets up and stops at the rack?


----------



## hellerbrewing

Finally got my HTPC in the rack.











If anyone is considering building one for their rack, I really like the look of the Antec Fusion Remote case, it matches the anodized finish perfectly. It's nice and plain and the front is flat. Pics don't do it justice.


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tghodge* /forum/post/17307143
> 
> 
> I looked back through this thread and couldn't find an example of the side trim pieces. Is anyone using them and can show an example?



ok I finally got around to taking an updated picture of my rack. I still need to cut face plates for my equipment, but you can see the screw head trim pieces on the side in this shot.


----------



## hagur

Here's my rack/equipment room.


----------



## andyboy

where can I find some cheap racks? no more than 6' tall?


----------



## bonedoc2be




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy* /forum/post/18171062
> 
> 
> where can I find some cheap racks? no more than 6' tall?



define cheap


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bonedoc2be* /forum/post/18174821
> 
> 
> define cheap



AV Rack systems that won't make go broke. around $100-150 range


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy* /forum/post/18177611
> 
> 
> AV Rack systems that won't make go broke. around $100-150 range



Watch craigslist.


----------



## Dennis Erskine

One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.


----------



## JeffC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18270016
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.



Dennis do you guys field terminate everything? I suspect HDMI would be the exception


----------



## superleo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18270016
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.



Can't get any cleaner and organized than this, looks awesome!


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18270016
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.



And in-the-field terminated cables, for that exact length. Exact length cables make all the difference.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/18271532
> 
> 
> And in-the-field terminated cables, for that exact length. Exact length cables make all the difference.



Damn those pesky HDMI cables.. the convenience of an all-in-one cable lost to excess bulk rolled up at the back of the rack


----------



## mikieson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18270016
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.



When you people do your cables that way, it looks really really cool and I know it takes a LOT of time and a LOT of money.


BUT I would hate to have them like that. IF anything at all goes wrong with a cable or you want to reroute something it would be a complete total pain in the [email protected]


Looks awesome though.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikieson* /forum/post/18273188
> 
> 
> When you people do your cables that way, it looks really really cool and I know it takes a LOT of time and a LOT of money.
> 
> 
> BUT I would hate to have them like that. IF anything at all goes wrong with a cable or you want to reroute something it would be a complete total pain in the [email protected]
> 
> 
> Looks awesome though.



Actually I think it makes it easier to troubleshoot and make changes than being in a tangled ball.


----------



## mikieson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sebberry* /forum/post/18274050
> 
> 
> Actually I think it makes it easier to troubleshoot and make changes than being in a tangled ball.



Sure better than a tangled ball for sure...lol


----------



## hanesian

Don't try this at home - I am a professional!


----------



## mikieson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanesian* /forum/post/18274281
> 
> 
> Don't try this at home - I am a professional!



LOL...to think he probably knows what all those wires do one by one...hahahah


----------



## Dennis Erskine

No...we don't custom terminate HDMI.







We also pre-build the racks in our shop, test everything and bring the completed rack to the job site.


It is easier to modify ... and you don't find wires pulled out by accident.


----------



## andyboy

Could someone help me out on how many spaces the following stuff takes up? I'm trying to see if a 20U rack (Mid Atlantic BRK20) would be enough for me. And some added space to hold some small stuff and some breathing room for air.


1) Pioneer SC-05

2) Xbox 360

3) PS3

4) Wii

5) Verizon Fios (Motorola box) HD Box


----------



## Audixium




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy* /forum/post/18293683
> 
> 
> Could someone help me out on how many spaces the following stuff takes up? I'm trying to see if a 20U rack (Mid Atlantic BRK20) would be enough for me. And some added space to hold some small stuff and some breathing room for air.
> 
> 
> 1) Pioneer SC-05
> 
> 2) Xbox 360
> 
> 3) PS3
> 
> 4) Wii
> 
> 5) Verizon Fios (Motorola box) HD Box



Easy: Download and install the free Rack Tools program


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audixium* /forum/post/18293854
> 
> 
> Easy: Download and install the free Rack Tools program



Awsome! Thank you!


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18276657
> 
> *No...we don't custom terminate HDMI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * We also pre-build the racks in our shop, test everything and bring the completed rack to the job site.
> 
> 
> It is easier to modify ... and you don't find wires pulled out by accident.



Did this product ever make it to market?
http://hd.engadget.com/2009/01/27/au...d-hdmi-cables/ 


The only thing messing up my component shelf is too-long HDMI cables.


----------



## rob black

Just completed my rack last week, converted a hallway closet to a equipment rack.


Before:
 


After:


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rob black* /forum/post/18324134
> 
> 
> Just completed my rack last week, converted a hallway closet to a equipment rack.




Much better use of space.


----------



## marklabelle870

I posted the beginning of the rack back along.. so thought I would update. Got the rack loaded in the lobby. It's an ERK 40U 25" deep rack with rear rack rails and lacing bars. Love it!


----------



## dvmiller




rob black said:


> Just completed my rack last week, converted a hallway closet to a equipment rack.
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Rob, very nice work. Do you have access to your equipment from the back, if so how did you do that or is that a slide out type rack?
> 
> 
> Dale


----------



## Abs777

What is a good height for a rack? I framed mine in a little under 4 ft. I hope this will be enough space.


----------



## labyrinth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/18059760
> 
> 
> ok I finally got around to taking an updated picture of my rack. I still need to cut face plates for my equipment, but you can see the screw head trim pieces on the side in this shot.




Vcook, what rack are you using for this?


----------



## JeffC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Abs777* /forum/post/18328592
> 
> 
> What is a good height for a rack? I framed mine in a little under 4 ft. I hope this will be enough space.




Depends on how much stuff you got







I would go as big as you can for future proofing


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *labyrinth* /forum/post/18383239
> 
> 
> Vcook, what rack are you using for this?



Middle Atlantic RK20 Equipment Rack


----------



## labyrinth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/18383537
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic RK20 Equipment Rack



What shelving for it?


----------



## design1stcode2nd

I plan on having my rack out of sight so does it really pay to get a nice AV rack? Figuring I can build a rack for minimal costs and just incorporate some wire management bits.


I'll need an IR repeater system but I can look into that later.


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *design1stcode2nd* /forum/post/18384367
> 
> 
> I plan on having my rack out of sight so does it really pay to get a nice AV rack? Figuring I can build a rack for minimal costs and just incorporate some wire management bits.
> 
> 
> I'll need an IR repeater system but I can look into that later.



Nope.


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *labyrinth* /forum/post/18383782
> 
> 
> What shelving for it?



standard 19" rack mount shelves, cheapest I could find. components are light so I went with 1U shelves. Maybe someday I'll spring for some nice midatlanic custom shelf/faceplates but I fear upgrades will make those purchases foolish.


----------



## rob black




dvmiller said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rob black* /forum/post/18324134
> 
> 
> Hey Rob, very nice work. Do you have access to your equipment from the back, if so how did you do that or is that a slide out type rack?
> 
> 
> Dale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side is a walk in closet.
Click to expand...


----------



## mystic_sniper28

I would have to say i like the racks some people have, some people have very interesting concepts for rack layouts, 1 question how do you disperse all the heat from all the components in your various racks...


you all have given me idea's for my own layout..


----------



## Anthony A.

MA actually has an article that i remember finding using google and it is very good for anyone looking to cool their rack/cabinet. it shows the proper ways of doing it and ways that are completely useless. it is a good read, i would recommend searching for it, but in a nutshell, you should have an intake fan at the bottom of the rack (to pull in cool/fresh air), and an opposite fan at the top (to push out the heat). i will be doing a similar approach for my equipment closet and will cut out 2 vents on the wall, 1 top and 1 bottom. from the outside they will be covered with return air grills, but on the inside they will have pc fans and actuated using a line voltage temperature sensore. this way the fans only turn on when the closet reaches a certain temperature. or, you could simply buy the MA rackmount "cooler" which i belive also displays an led readout of the temperature.


----------



## Family Time

Wow...Just spend an hour and a half looking through this thread!!! Some awesome hidden racks on here and some very cool custom-made faceplates, etc.


One thing I must request - as a relative noob - PLEASE, take the time to set up a photo account somewhere (I downloaded Picasa and use the Google service and I love it)! It is FREE to do. Why do this, you ask? So your photos show up directly in the post and are not links (although I think some guys forgot to keep their accts open, too)!!!


As someone looking through a thread called "SHOW me your rack", I expect to see LOTS and LOTS of photos and would rather wait a few extra seconds for each page to load a lot of photos than have to click on links to get to them!!


I realize as well that the very nature of this hobby probably has the majority of AVS'ers buying and installing pre-designed racks (i.e. MA). I would like to see MORE of the custom builds. They don't need to have 14 pieces of AV gear in them, but show us your creativity!!


I have a simply box unit with adjustable shelves and I will post it once I have it done. Btw, this thread did give me a lot of ideas for how to run the wires for a "cleaner" look - although I doubt mine will rival the really nice ones I saw throughout this thread!


So...post 'em if you got 'em and I'll post mine when I get to that point!! Nice job guys!!


----------



## goobenet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marklabelle870* /forum/post/18324452



Couple questions. Where did you find Rack Ears for the Onkyo? Are they custom fabbed?


Also, with the onkyo having the XLR balanced output, and your amp having XLR balanced inputs, why are you using the RCA unbalanced preouts?


----------



## cinema mad

Goobenet The Answer to part of your question,


The Onkyo PRO line of products PRE-PRO PR-SC 885/886 which is in the above pic can be ordered with Optional rack mount ears..

The 885/886 are pretty much the same unit as the integra 9.8/9.9 and are also Audyssey Pro ready..


Cheers...


----------



## md1953

Thought I'd add a picture of my rack, MA Slim 5. A pic of the rear will have to wait until I clean it up and enclose is as it now is exposed in the bedroom.


----------



## MikeRich

Awesome racks!!


I was wondering if anyone has a Middle Atlantic WRK -44 and is using it free standing and not built into a wall?


I have the opportunity to pick up cheap but I can't put it in a wall. Are there sides available for it? Does it need the wall for any kind of support?


Anyone know if a normal server rack would be better in this type of situation?


-Mike


----------



## PS3forlife












custom made still needs back and maybe faceplates or a smoked glass door and some ventilation


----------



## hanesian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PS3forlife* /forum/post/18454996
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> custom made still needs back and maybe faceplates or a smoked glass door and some ventilation





That miniature frig fits in that rack perfectly!


Nice work!


----------



## design1stcode2nd

Trying to do my research well before I can build anything so hopefully I’ll build it correctly or at least not too badly. Perhaps some of you with the larger racks full of stuff could explain some of the things you have in them and what they are for?


I understand the basics like Receiver, HD Receiver (cable, SAT, etc), DVD or Blu-Ray player, game consoles, HTPC, UPS or even amplifiers if you don’t want to use your receiver to power your speakers but what are all of the other things?


I was just figuring on having a 7.2 receiver, PS3, HD receiver and an UPS. Well and an IR repeater (still need to research how that works or what cables I need to run for that)


----------



## jongig

I have a great idea for all rack systems. I have a full size rack system full with equipment. I had used security screws in the rack and my house was burglarized. The house has a security system including video and he took quite a bit but he couldn't get anything out of the rack. I used the security screws more as a novilty but I'm happy I did.


Use security screws, they work.


----------



## Big Worms

Link to those screws?


----------



## KingLeerUK

A couple of these Torx 10-32 per rack item should be a sufficient frustration.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/18460440
> 
> 
> A couple of these Torx 10-32 per rack item should be a sufficient frustration.



You can buy a whole set of various security bits for $20 on ebay.


----------



## marklabelle870




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goobenet* /forum/post/18427280
> 
> 
> Couple questions. Where did you find Rack Ears for the Onkyo? Are they custom fabbed?
> 
> 
> Also, with the onkyo having the XLR balanced output, and your amp having XLR balanced inputs, why are you using the RCA unbalanced preouts?



Just setting up the rack and testing - I ordered Balanced from Blue Jeans and they aren't here yet, that's all. I'll be using Balanced once they get here.


----------



## Big Worms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KingLeerUK* /forum/post/18460440
> 
> 
> A couple of these Torx 10-32 per rack item should be a sufficient frustration.



Thanks and good idea! And sorry to hear about your break in.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Erskine* /forum/post/18270016
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.



Is there an industry "standard" for what color coax/wire to use for various interconnects?


AramB


----------



## CJO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/18491127
> 
> 
> Is there an industry "standard" for what color coax/wire to use for various interconnects?
> 
> 
> AramB



There is not.


CJ


----------



## KERMIE

Question on Custom Faceplates. Do you use longer screws to put the plate on. I am assuming you have a regular shelf then put the faceplate on and screw through the Faceplate AND the shelf onto the rack?


----------



## hellerbrewing

Standard screws are fine. Generally the faceplates are made to go with a particular shelf. When you order, you get the shelf with it unless you are specifically ordering just the faceplate The shelf used can vary slightly depending on the weight of the unit as well as the width. The faceplate I just had made for my HTPC had to be used with a shelf that attaches to the siderails instead of the front, due to the fact that the case was so wide. You can search for more info here:

http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp


----------



## Iusteve

Those of you that wall mounted MA racks I have a question. I have a wrk 37-32 rack and the front is tapered a bit (Not sure if all MA racks are or not since this is my first one) and I am not sure when framing it in how to go about it. Did you frame tight against both sides of that rack with 2x4s or did you take your drywall (90 degrees) around the corner inward then slide the rack in? And where should I position my rack considering the taper in the front? Any help would be super appreciated


----------



## ckellyusa

You all have some amazing racks and I can't wait until one day I have one like it!



Until then, I just finished (to a working state) getting my rack setup. It's only a half height wall mount rack that's currently used mainly for distribution, but hopefully I'll have a receiver, ps3, xbox, and a few more items in it over the next year.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice and clean cable management there


----------



## Mr.Poindexter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sebberry* /forum/post/18460462
> 
> 
> You can buy a whole set of various security bits for $20 on ebay.



While it isn't hard to order security bit drivers, they are not something most crooks have on them so crimes of opportunity are pretty well eliminated unless you happen to leave your security but and driver next to your rack.


----------



## Chris Knout




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KERMIE* /forum/post/18492525
> 
> 
> Question on Custom Faceplates. Do you use longer screws to put the plate on. I am assuming you have a regular shelf then put the faceplate on and screw through the Faceplate AND the shelf onto the rack?



3/4" rack screws will work fine


----------



## tabiggs

finally finished - took lots of planning


----------



## tabiggs

try this again, -


----------



## marklabelle870




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tabiggs* /forum/post/18665921
> 
> 
> try this again, -



Nice, but what about when you need to load in a cd or dvd?


----------



## Big Worms

I agree nice, but is that rack really on the top of the stairwell? Maybe you can put a library type stairs right by it.


----------



## rob black

Nice, You must be very tall


----------



## mystic_sniper28

I would have to say it is very unique setup you have there, it must be nice to be able to buy these things..


----------



## Elill

Stuff the rack - I want to see what sort of room needs all that - pics please!


----------



## Chris Knout

MD1953's is full of all sorts of win. Good job!


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tabiggs* /forum/post/18665900
> 
> 
> finally finished - took lots of planning



This CANT be real







This is only your 4th post here AND tell us how in the world you reach the components to adjust settings, insert a dvd or cd or anything else? Also if you look at the 2nd pic it doesnt appear to be centered very well, the space from the top left corner to the ceiling and the top right corner to the ceiling isnt or doesnt appear to be the same. Give us more here


----------



## tabiggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rob black* /forum/post/18668540
> 
> 
> Nice, You must be very tall





the 2 CD players and playstation on on the very bottom anb can be loaded at 4'5" level - i am 6 feet and have no problem. it looks offcenter in the picture but it looks perfectly centered in person, i promise its real....


----------



## tabiggs

true, this is my forth post, I dont know much, so I hired 2 AV guys that spent 2 weeks wiring my house....


i have a third floor I converted from an office to a media room,


The stairwell wraps around so as you are walking up to the third floor,, BAM BAM, quite the shock value when you are going to walk up to watch a movie, powered by all mcintosh eqip, it looks and operates great..


here are some more pics...


----------



## tabiggs

The reason i decided on this location is because nobody would ever know about the media set up unless you were going to enter the media room, i wanted it totally out of the way and set up at a location where its not in the way or set up where it would be overwhelming in a main location


----------



## Iusteve

Wow too insane though it still appears to be off center. In post #846, the 3rd pic in it appears the distance from the top corners to the ceiling is not uniform but it may just be the picture angle. I have a question......how do you access the back of the equipment? Oh those seats are sweeeeeeet!!


----------



## kendall howard

Nice elegant rack mount system


----------



## Leifashley27

Pics of my MA SRSR-4-27:












































I'm getting ready to load some more gear in there and remove the vented plates and add an active exhuast to a downstairs closet. 2-Crestron control CP2e, crestron wholehouse amp, FIOS set top box.


I'm also looking to redo the casing... just looks kind of plain.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

Was finally able to find some time to get my rack finished up and laced. Also got all my new Marantz gear as well


----------



## aramb

Isn't this rack being featured in the upcoming Electronic House DIY issue?


----------



## Mr. Goodcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/18703833
> 
> 
> Isn't this rack being featured in the upcoming Electronic House DIY issue?



No, my theater is though

I could not get the rack done in time


----------



## RedCOMET

My HT rack. Nothing fancy but it works for my apartment... and i can always use it for computer stuff down the road if my requirements change.


The floor around it has since been cleaned up.

EDIT:

attached a wrong photo.


----------



## JeffC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Goodcat* /forum/post/18702698
> 
> 
> Was finally able to find some time to get my rack finished up and laced. Also got all my new Marantz gear as well



Hey I know that equipment closet. Saw it on the dvd


----------



## Mr. Goodcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffC* /forum/post/18707119
> 
> 
> Hey I know that equipment closet. Saw it on the dvd



The very one. It made it into the new EH DIY book too. Should be out at the end of the month.

Very happy with it and now that I opened up my own shop, the cost to upgrade was not that much


----------



## Mr.Poindexter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marklabelle870* /forum/post/18666837
> 
> 
> Nice, but what about when you need to load in a cd or dvd?



I don't see a DVD player in there but that could always be on the bottom of the rack. Not like much of the gear needs to be physically accessed. Certainly a striking looking installation.


----------



## premiertrussman

Still incomplete, but operation at least. Custom made by me with plywood and bubble gum.























I still need to make all the trim for it and then take it all apart and paint it but for now it gets all my equipment off the floor while i take care of some other things.


----------



## Brent A

Very nice looking.

You say you still need to paint it?

I like the tan/brown finish in the second photo, which makes it looks finished to me.


----------



## premiertrussman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brent A* /forum/post/18814811
> 
> 
> Very nice looking.
> 
> You say you still need to paint it?
> 
> I like the tan/brown finish in the second photo, which makes it looks finished to me.



I suppose i could leave it natural...I never really thought about it. I was just going to paint it to match the rest of the wood work in the room. The photos make it look nicer than it is. There are several spots that need to be filled and sanded down so that was another reason to paint rather than finish. I still need to put edging on the front of the shelving too...right now its just the end of plywood...so not very pretty...although i bet Corock would disagree with me.


----------



## madaboutred

Here is mine. Cut a hole and built this a while back.

all of the wiring is accessible from the back in a storage room.











Two doors, one is opened and one is closed.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice look mad!!


----------



## Dixon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/18671915
> 
> 
> Wow too insane though it still appears to be off center. In post #846, the 3rd pic in it appears the distance from the top corners to the ceiling is not uniform but it may just be the picture angle. I have a question......how do you access the back of the equipment? Oh those seats are sweeeeeeet!!



Looks to me like the rack is centered. It is the ceiling that isn't uniform (look at the length of each slanted portion)--probably due to structural issues above it. I had a similar ceiling on my third floor before renovating.


That rack setup with those McIntosh amps is just awesome, but unless those racks slide out and rotate, I think the installer has provided himself a lifetime engagement


----------



## madaboutred

"nice look mad!!"

Thanks Mystic, I appreciate the comment.


I have been working with a pretty tight budget over the years, so I have to build some of my own stuff.


Mad


----------



## tabiggs

There is a door on the third floor that leads to the back of the racks, otherwise itnwould be a heck of a nightmare trying to access, no doubt. Now that I study the ceiling, it is possible that it is off center, but the pictures make it look lot worse, walking up the stairs, it looks very symmetrical


Lots of good racks and ideas in this forum.


----------



## lawdog2k

I guess I'll throw my newest stuff in this thread. I just got a slim 5-43 and a but load of custom cut faces and shelves, perforated fillers, brush grommet, fan top, and a 3" drawer. All in brushed anodized. I'll toss in some newer pic when the room is roughed in and the rack is where I is supposed to be. Alot o nice setups in here.


----------



## wposey

I've always browsed AVS forum but never posted. Here are some pictures of my rack I built from scratch in my home theater (part of my finished basement remodel). What you think?


Materials: 3/4" MDF trimmed out with rough cut cedar. 4' x 8' Faux brick panel board around it.


----------



## lawdog2k

Looks good!


----------



## kevin g.

Hey wposey,

I am doing something very similar in build, how did you fasten your MDF panels together? Looks like screws? What stops them from stripping out of the mdf?


----------



## Chris Knout

Awesome rack system. Good job


----------



## jasplat88

This custom rack system was installed in my Home Theater when I moved in. Can someone tell me what it is (name/style) and where I can buy more of the shelf clips? Thanks!


-Jason


----------



## greg_mitch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasplat88* /forum/post/18871318
> 
> 
> This custom rack system was installed in my Home Theater when I moved in. Can someone tell me what it is (name/style) and where I can buy more of the shelf clips? Thanks!
> 
> 
> -Jason



Don't know what they are called but go to Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc. they all have that type and you can buy more clips for cheap.


----------



## TheCableMan

Yep they sell them in the custom closet area in menards defiantly


----------



## jasplat88

I don't believe we have a Menards in NC, and I did not see them at Home Depot, but will check Lowes tomorrow. If they don't have them, do you know anywhere online where they are sold? Thanks!


-Jason


----------



## wposey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasplat88* /forum/post/18871676
> 
> 
> I don't believe we have a Menards in NC, and I did not see them at Home Depot, but will check Lowes tomorrow. If they don't have them, do you know anywhere online where they are sold? Thanks!
> 
> 
> -Jason



I know for a fact they have them in Home Depot


----------



## dhnjp1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasplat88* /forum/post/18871318
> 
> 
> This custom rack system was installed in my Home Theater when I moved in. Can someone tell me what it is (name/style) and where I can buy more of the shelf clips? Thanks!



Those are Pilaster Strips and the clips are called.......Pilaster Clips.










--Dan


----------



## wposey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin g.* /forum/post/18864295
> 
> 
> Hey wposey,
> 
> I am doing something very similar in build, how did you fasten your MDF panels together? Looks like screws? What stops them from stripping out of the mdf?



I used corse thread screws to attach the two side panels to the studs that I framed out around the hole. I used 5 screws in each side panel to the 2x4's since those are what acutally "hold" the weight of the rack up. I used fine thread drywall screws to attach the upper & lower parts of the rack to the side pieces. As long as you don't Jesus torque the screws going in they will not strip out. My lower shelf is only supported by 4 fine thread drywall screws that are holding the bottom shelf into the side pieces. All the other shelves are held by the side pieces held by the 2x4's.


----------



## jasplat88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhnjp1* /forum/post/18871716
> 
> 
> Those are Pilaster Strips and the clips are called.......Pilaster Clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Dan



Thank you all. I see them now on the HD website, so I must have missed them in my local HD store. Appreciate the help!


----------



## wlbolton




----------



## parkds

I have been lurking on here for the past few months. I have been working to build my first rack mount and have it integrated into an new living room built in. I live in NYC, so unfortunately I do not have space for the amazing setups so many of you have. Instead I had to work with an already existing alcove without knocking down or cutting holes into any walls. I was not been able to find any examples on avs of people integrating a full rack into a piece of furniture so I thought I would share.


----------



## Ese

Hey guys.


I enjoyed going through this thread -- all 30 pages. I have a question. For my tastes, I liked the racks that were flush mounted with all components being flush and with what appeared to be face plates so that there was no space around the components as viewed from the front facing. The components had that "built in" look.


But I was wondering. With the components being flush and with the space above and below the components appearing minimal -- Is heat a problem? In terms of the heat given off by the components and heat rising and the space between components appearing relatively tight.


Thanks.


----------



## lawdog2k

My equipment will have at least two inches between them. The room the equipment resides in is air conditioned with proper exhaust requirements met. The front of tve equipment is the only thing in the theater room. The rack itself has fans built into it for heat draw/ventilation. It's all in the design.


----------



## Ese

Ahh Thank you.


----------



## marklabelle870

On my rack, I left 1U between each component and put the "high heat" components on the top (amps, pre/pro, etc.). Since heat rises, that made sense. I have no cooling issues to speak of. What you don't want is vented 1U blanks between the components, as it doesn't allow for a direct upward flow of air from top to bottom.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ese* /forum/post/18956355
> 
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> 
> I enjoyed going through this thread -- all 30 pages. I have a question. For my tastes, I liked the racks that were flush mounted with all components being flush and with what appeared to be face plates so that there was no space around the components as viewed from the front facing. The components had that "built in" look.
> 
> 
> But I was wondering. With the components being flush and with the space above and below the components appearing minimal -- Is heat a problem? In terms of the heat given off by the components and heat rising and the space between components appearing relatively tight.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## marklabelle870

My updated rack...


In order - top to bottom:


Anthem MCA 50

Anthem MCA 20

Onkyo PR SC-885 Pre/Pro

Oppo BD-83

Comcast Box (To be added)

Xbox 360

Wii

APC J15

HTPC (Niveus to be added)

4U storage draw


Mounted on the right of the rack is a URC MRF-350 and Receiver


Got a few minor items to tweak, but all is all 80% complete.


----------



## Ese




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marklabelle870* /forum/post/18958447
> 
> 
> On my rack, I left 1U between each component and put the "high heat" components on the top (amps, pre/pro, etc.). Since heat rises, that made sense. I have no cooling issues to speak of. What you don't want is vented 1U blanks between the components, as it doesn't allow for a direct upward flow of air from top to bottom.



Thank you.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marklabelle870* /forum/post/18958447
> 
> 
> On my rack, I left 1U between each component and put the "high heat" components on the top (amps, pre/pro, etc.). Since heat rises, that made sense. I have no cooling issues to speak of. What you don't want is vented 1U blanks between the components, as it doesn't allow for a direct upward flow of air from top to bottom.



I did the same thing on my rack but with a 2u vented plate between each component for now. In the coming months my 10u worth of vented plates will be removed and replaced with amps and some crestron control gear. At that time I will have to cut a hole at the top of my rack and put in a long pull fan that will suck the air out of the rack when it hits a certain temp and move that air to an rarely used guest room closet.


----------



## Ese




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Leifashley27* /forum/post/18959675
> 
> 
> I did the same thing on my rack but with a 2u vented plate between each component for now. In the coming months my 10u worth of vented plates will be removed and replaced with amps and some crestron control gear. At that time I will have to cut a hole at the top of my rack and put in a long pull fan that will suck the air out of the rack when it hits a certain temp and move that air to an rarely used guest room closet.



Hey guys. What's a "u." As in "2u" and "10u?" Also, has anyone tried one of those lap top computer fans or coolers that are relatively flat and lay on top of the component or lap top computer? Like an amp or receiver?


Thanks.


----------



## lawdog2k

The u we are talking about is a unit of space in a rack. The racks are divided into units. Mine has 43. The rack model will denote the number of u's. Mine is a 5-26-43, hence 43 units.


I have considered getting the fans for the tops of my equipment, but I was gonna wait and see.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ese* /forum/post/18959935
> 
> 
> Hey guys. What's a "u." As in "2u" and "10u?" Also, has anyone tried one of those lap top computer fans or coolers that are relatively flat and lay on top of the component or lap top computer? Like an amp or receiver?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Server racks are predrilled for easy mounting of equipment. Equipment comes in heights in inches and is sometimes measured in u's or how much vertical rack space it will take up.


1u = 1.75" or 3 rack holes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack_unit


----------



## Ese

Thanks for the responses. It's always good to learn something new.


----------



## CodecFreak

one word WOW !!!


----------



## JustBusiness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hagur* /forum/post/18144766
> 
> 
> Here's my rack/equipment room.



I want to make my rack just like this one, except the rubbermaid and closetmaid racks like this say only good for 10lbs. Can someone point me in the right direction?


I need to make the rack at least 76" tall with 10 or 11 shelves. (7 6" high shelves, and 2 12" high).


I will be able to sink the screws in to studs, and possibly a third stud in the middle of the rack.


----------



## greg_mitch

Menards/Home Depot/Lowes has what you need. The rails should be anchored to studs if you want to support anything of weight on a top shelf.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

buy a network rack and some rack ears for the av gear...


the most expensive part is getting the server chassis for a rack...


----------



## JustBusiness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/19009880
> 
> 
> buy a network rack and some rack ears for the av gear...
> 
> 
> the most expensive part is getting the server chassis for a rack...



Links to the products I'd need? I've never used a network rack before.


----------



## Drew_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JustBusiness* /forum/post/19007924
> 
> 
> I want to make my rack just like this one, except the rubbermaid and closetmaid racks like this say only good for 10lbs. Can someone point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> I need to make the rack at least 76" tall with 10 or 11 shelves. (7 6" high shelves, and 2 12" high).
> 
> 
> I will be able to sink the screws in to studs, and possibly a third stud in the middle of the rack.




I'm not sure why you say the shelves are limited to 10 lb., because that picture is showing a pretty heavy receeiver sitting on one of the shelves.


If I do a search for "Rubbermaid shelf bracket", most of them say that they're good for several HUNDRED pounds if you use two brackets and a shelf across them. The style that I'm using (you can see it in my build thread) claims to be good for 350 lb. when mounted in a shelf arrangement.


----------



## lawdog2k

New pics of rack installed. I put it together, installed it, the shelves, and faceplates. Amps at top, then pre/pro, then xbox, brush through, drawer, satellite, ps3, power distribution, then some vents. There are two middle Atlantic fans mounted in top to draw air to top from being drawn in at bottom through the vents.


Te other pic is the enclosure I made for the rack. It will be stained the same color as the rest of the woodwork.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New pics of rack installed. I put it together, installed it, the shelves, and faceplates. Amps at top, then pre/pro, then xbox, brush through, drawer, satellite, ps3, power distribution, then some vents. There are two middle Atlantic fans mounted in top to draw air to top from being drawn in at bottom through the vents.
> 
> 
> Te other pic is the enclosure I made for the rack. It will be stained the same color as the rest of the woodwork.



Wow that's a lot of faceplates!!! Looks great! Really cool to see some different trim out around the rack.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

jb google is your friend just type av racks


----------



## Big Tasty

This is my first attempt at anything like this. There are some rough parts but for the most part I'm happy with how it turned out. Debating about making face plates but will decide on that later.











Rack is on wheels which will allow me to roll it out to access the back










Close up of the shelf. Drilled in some holes to allow for air to circulate as well as to run the cables.










Added the drywall. I'm sure there was 100 easier appoaches to cutting this but I took the most difficult way lol










Primed and ready to go.










Looks too much like a prison cell, back to primer it goes










That's better










It's Alive! Now to fix the mantle, adjust the tv and clean up the speaker wires.


----------



## Wrong Hombre

Did you really have to paint the brick? I only ask because I have a huge lovely double sided brick fireplace in my living room/kitchen that some a-hole painted white years ago and now I have no way to unpaint it. /edit/ sorry i clearly have a pet peeve, but my brick isn't standard brick like that but is long, thin and burnt orange in color and matches the outside of the house and now my nice fireplace is white. Nice rack though.


----------



## Big Tasty

Mine is a brick facade, only about half a centimeter thick. What I really wanted to do was to remove all the brick and replace it with stone from top to bottom but I wanted to keep the cost down, maybe it will be a future project.


I painted it because i wanted everything to blend as much as possible. I was originally going to paint the rack the same colour as the side wall but it turns out I threw away the paint can and didn't note the colour. Having the brick, then paint above it and beside would have looked weird to me with the rest of the room a third colour.


I actually removed 3 rows of brick from the top and lowered the mantle to make room for the tv


This is how it looked originally


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice rack


is that a gas burner or wood burner fireplace??


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/19041394
> 
> 
> nice rack
> 
> 
> is that a gas burner or wood burner fireplace??



Definately looks like gas or propane.


----------



## TheaterChad

Tasty,

Your AV rack looks great!, looks like your getting your flat panel above your fireplace just fine, should look fantastic! Good Job on your project!


----------



## Wrong Hombre

I have a clear bias against painted brick. I plan on covering it all with rock facade. Painted brick just angers me. Brick facade angers me less. Apologies to all brick painters out there.


----------



## Big Tasty

Thanks all, it was a fun project to do. Hopefully I will be inspired to do other projects around the house.


Yes Sniper it's a gas fireplace.


Chad thanks, can't wait to see your set up!


Hombre, no worries man everyone has their own preferences. If you look at TheaterChad's build thread you will see a very nice example of a stone facade fireplace with tv above. The brick look just didn't fit in my basement as the rest of the room is very modern and the fireplace stood out too much to me.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

hmm, general practice fireplaces and electrical gear don't mix..


radiant heat gas fire and electrical gear shortens life of electrical gear..


----------



## Big Tasty

1. I measured the temperature before starting this project below and several locations above the mantle (with fire on). There was no significant rise in temperature other then the overall room temp going up over time as the mantle does a good job in deflecting the heat from going straight up.


2. We don't use the fireplace all that often and only in the dead of winter. With that we will not have it on for too long anyways (minutes, not hours).


----------



## ctbundy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sebberry* /forum/post/18019295
> 
> 
> Tied this in with my kitchen reno:




This is amazing. I'm so glad you posted this because I had a carpenter out today and was able to show him your design. Only difference is mine will be little wider and will have shelves all the way down. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Brent A

Hey everyone.


Here are a few pics of my rack in its before and current state. The rack itself is a Slim-5 knockoff and all of the shelves are home-built except for the PS3 shelf which is a Middle Atlantic RHS unit.

As most of you know, when a PS3 is rack mounted, it stick out quite a bit. Because of where my rack is located in the room, it can see a lot of traffic walking by, so I decided to recessed it into the wall to eliminate the possibly of anyone bumping into the PS3 or even any of the other components knobs.


Before:









Current:


----------



## Gelfling

Very nice! Very nice indeed.


----------



## GPowers

Nice fit. Must have been a real hassle to get the drywall to fit that close to the rack.


Greg


----------



## Brent A

Thanks guys.


Yeah, I knew doing it all in drywall and getting it nice, clean and tight to the rack would have been way beyond my DIY skills. So I trimmed out the recessed area is with poplar, then mudded and sanded the seam and painted the wood the same color as the wall.


----------



## Tedd

Very clean installation, Brent.


I recently cut down a 2 post computer rack, framed it in, and attached it to the wall studs, flush with the stud face. I still have to drywall it over, but my simplistic plan is to use drywall edging, either J channel or U trim channel to give a clean edge and get pretty much the same look as you acheived.


The new rack location uses up a 2' wide by 4' deep niche, right outside the theater door. Since the niche is 23" narrow, I plan to run two surface mounted Unistrut rails down each side wall, and with bracketry attached, will give four post like support to heavy gear.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brent A* /forum/post/19105235
> 
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> 
> Here are a few pics of my rack in its before and current state. The rack itself is a Slim-5 knockoff and all of the shelves are home-built except for the PS3 shelf which is a Middle Atlantic RHS unit.



Looks great Brent! Where did you get the Slim-5 knockoff? I'd love to find a cheaper alternative that's similar. Also, what are your shelves made out of?


----------



## Brent A

Thanks Tedd & Brad,


My original plan was pretty much the same as Tedd, but I was having a hard time finding a used server rack that wouldn’t cost as much as buying two single rails from MA.

In my search for someone that sold rack rails cheap, I found this rack at www.startech.com . Go to their website and in the search window, enter *RK4320AV*.


I almost couldn’t believe the price and figured when it arrived, I would see why it was so reasonable but there is nothing I can find wrong with this unit. I have say that I have never seen a Slim 5 in person, but this rack seems to be an almost exact copy and the RHS rack shelf for my PS3 fit perfectly.

The only problem I had was with the threaded holes on one of the rails. The rack screws weren’t going in easily but after I chased them with a tap, they were fine.


My shelves are very simple. I went to Lowes and bought some 2’x2’ plywood sheets and some sticks of aluminum angle. I cut the alum. angle to length, drilled a hole in each end and slipped the angle over the rack screws, then threaded a nut onto the back of each one to secure them. I cut the plywood to size and dropped them down in between the two angles (one in the front, and one on the back). I cut the shelves as large as I could so that they were tight against the aluminum so I had to notch each corner to clear the nuts. As far as color, I spray painted all of the plywood and the angle with Krylon Satin Black.


The only downside to this method is that since the shelf takes up the full depth of the rack, there is a lot wasted shelf space behind the shallower components. However after getting it done, I realized that if I drilled some strategically placed holes in the rear of the shelves, they could be used as a cost effective way of cable management.


I’ll take some more detailed pictures of one of the shelves this weekend.


----------



## Tedd

That Startech with your shelves, coupled with Stormtrooper1015's DIY face plates, would equal one very nice, yet very inexpensive av rack.









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1136907 post 62.


Looking forward to the pictures.


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/19111106
> 
> 
> That Startech with your shelves, coupled with Stormtrooper1015's DIY face plates, would equal one very nice, yet very inexpensive av rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1136907 post 62.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the pictures.



I was planning on doing some DIY aluminum faceplates like in the future. I wasn't aware of stormtrooper1015's leather wrapped faceplates. Now that is pretty neat. I may just have to re-think this a bit.


----------



## Brent A

As promised, here are some pics and material list of the components I used to make my shelves.


¾ aluminum angle

½ plywood

Standard rack screws

10-32 nuts that I bought at the local hardware store

Krylon Satin Black spray paint


If anyone has anymore questions, let me know.










Close-up of the front and back side of the aluminum angle.




















¾ aluminum angle











½ plywood


----------



## jjminch

Anyone have a place that is selling the rack that Brent posted? I followed his link and it says unavailable.


----------



## lawdog2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjminch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have a place that is selling the rack that Brent posted? I followed his link and it says unavailable.


 http://us.startech.com/product/RK432...k-Down-AV-Rack 


This is the rack. I just went to their website and entered the part number he mentioned. Hopefully this works for ya!


----------



## 123Easy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecrabb* /forum/post/16572309
> 
> 
> Theater was mostly "finished" two years ago. We watched movies for nearly a year-and-a-half, then I actually got off my ass and finished most of the details last fall before I hosted my first meet. Still lots of little projects everywhere I look, but this is the current state of things.
> 
> 
> I have a lot of work to do with wiring _outside_ the rack - phone, satellite, Cat-5 and RG-6 runs to the rest of the house... I just can't get motivated to do that stuff... I just keep watching movies instead. Huh.
> 
> 
> SC



Liking this! Very stylish with the wood.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

New rack that I just built for our LR system.


----------



## Big Tasty

Brent, 123Easy and Mr. Goodcat....all amazing set ups and design!


Bent, was wondering if you found your PS3 got hot with the faceplate on it? I'm debating about faceplates but that little PS3 kicks up ALOT of heat.


----------



## Brent A

Thanks BT.


I know what you mean, these first Gen. PS3's do get pretty warm.


Previous to this, I had it located in an entertainment center in the living room and even with the back panel fully cut-out; its cooling fan would kick on high after being in use for only a short time.


Now that I have it in the rack even with the faceplate on, it has much more room to breath on the back and sides and is running noticeable cooler. I've had it running for several hours at a time and still the cooling fan has stayed in its normal speed range and so far I have yet to hear it kick on high speed.


----------



## kevin g.

Well, I have been wanting to do this for a looooonnng time...not really finished with my other projects, but I needed to clear my head and do something *I* wanted to do....

my old ratty setup:














Hole cut:






















A must have!!!!












fitting everything together temporarily:




















Test fit! (it's actually backwards in the hole for now, those braces will be on the back...inside the Mechanical room...)










Annnnddddd...VOILA!


Well...Equipment is in...had a few of these glass shelves with beveled edges from when we moved in...perfect size for a coupe doors, soooo...




















ohhh the pretty lights!!!











Update...finally got everything just about where I wanted... (In between honeydo's)

backing board on...










also (must be to my honeydo's completions...) Wifey splurged for our anniversary...AAANNNNNNNDDDD!!!!!....


VOILA'!!!!!!!!











Oh yeah! New receiver !!!!!











To Do:

cable management on the back.

Re-wire plug, inside mechanical room, block off hole in wall


----------



## judsonp

I think this should be a relatively easy question to answer (read dumb question). I have a MA Slim 5 rack that I want to mount a shelf in to place a new Onkyo TX-NR3007. The unit weighs 55.1 lbs and measures 17 1/8" x 7 13/16" x 18 1/4. It looks like I have 2 options - a front mount universal shelf like the U3V or a front to back shelf like the SH-5A. My concern is the U3V is only 15" deep which looks like it will be to short for the 18" piece of equipment. Is there another front mount shelf I could use? If not then the SH-5A will be the shelf of choice. If so, then I don't understand how to mount it. I see that it mounts to the side but I'm not sure which screws to buy.


----------



## andersa

For 55 lbs I'd go with the SH-5A. Indeed, that's what I'm using for my amp and power conditioner. Good news - the shelf comes with the screws you'll need. The screws goes into the holes on the side of the posts, if memory serves me right - similar to how the posts are attached to the base and top.


/Anders


----------



## Leifashley27

Has anyone bought a xbox 360 slim middle atlantic rack yet?


The site is showing it at 2u but the slim really isn't any slimmer than the old gen console.


I just bought a new slim for the HT (looking forward to it's quieter operation) to replace my old elite console and would welcome the extra 1u space if available.


----------



## lawdog2k

I have the slim model and ordered the custom face rack shelf. This is the part number for the shelf I ordered.... RSH4A2S MICROSOFT XBOX360S


Indeed, it is 2u per Mid Atlantic's Website.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19194762
> 
> 
> I have the slim model and ordered the custom face rack shelf. This is the part number for the shelf I ordered.... RSH4A2S MICROSOFT XBOX360S
> 
> 
> Indeed, it is 2u per Mid Atlantic's Website.



That's what I was hoping... I'm all for freeing up rackspace to make room for more gear (every u counts).


Then again I could just get another rack beside it and stack it full of amps.










I just wish I wasn't limited to only 27u vertically... stupid roof. I hate you roof!


----------



## judsonp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andersa* /forum/post/19194654
> 
> 
> For 55 lbs I'd go with the SH-5A. Indeed, that's what I'm using for my amp and power conditioner. Good news - the shelf comes with the screws you'll need. The screws goes into the holes on the side of the posts, if memory serves me right - similar to how the posts are attached to the base and top.
> 
> 
> /Anders



Awesome thanks! Just placed the order.


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *judsonp* /forum/post/19194141
> 
> 
> My concern is the U3V is only 15" deep which looks like it will be to short for the 18" piece of equipment. Is there another front mount shelf I could use?



I know you've already bought a shelf, but for future reference you can customize the height and depth by going with a KD-series ("knock-down") shelf . These have the same side and shelf venting as the U3V, but the ears and shelf bottom are separate pieces that screw together and you can pick from a range of sizes for each. In your case KDE5 (5U ears) plus KDB-20.5 (20.5" deep bottom) would probably do the trick.


I just got a KDE4 + KDB-17.5 shelf a few weeks ago for my 44-pound receiver:


----------



## judsonp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dododge* /forum/post/19214368
> 
> 
> I know you've already bought a shelf, but for future reference you can customize the height and depth by going with a KD-series ("knock-down") shelf . These have the same side and shelf venting as the U3V, but the ears and shelf bottom are separate pieces that screw together and you can pick from a range of sizes for each. In your case KDE5 (5U ears) plus KDB-20.5 (20.5" deep bottom) would probably do the trick.
> 
> 
> I just got a KDE4 + KDB-17.5 shelf a few weeks ago for my 44-pound receiver:



Hey, thanks for the tip! I'm not sure if this would work because my slim 5 is the 20" model and that shelf is 20.5". I'll keep it in mind if I add another component though.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19194762
> 
> 
> I have the slim model and ordered the custom face rack shelf. This is the part number for the shelf I ordered.... RSH4A2S MICROSOFT XBOX360S
> 
> 
> Indeed, it is 2u per Mid Atlantic's Website.



Is there anyway you can take a pic of the shelf when it comes in?


I unboxed my slim and the case is marred to all hell. Look like something took a razor blade all over the case. I'm hoping Frys doesn't give me hell about it when I take it back. It either came off the line this way or someone took it back.


----------



## lawdog2k

Here ya go.


----------



## Leifashley27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19219238
> 
> 
> Here ya go.



NICE!!!


I'll take that stack of rotels if you ever get sick of them.


----------



## lawdog2k

I'll have to think bout that!


Here is the completed(for now) rack. I have to get some 1u blanks for between the amps, but here it is.


----------



## Swancoat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19220267
> 
> 
> I'll have to think bout that!
> 
> 
> Here is the completed(for now) rack. I have to get some 1u blanks for between the amps, but here it is.



How are you mounting the Rotel amps? Just an open shelf? It looks like they're too big for a custom rackshelf. Does someone (Rotel?) sell rack ears for them?


----------



## lawdog2k

The amps fit perfectly. I have them slid forward so the heatsink fronts are out in the room. There are 1u spaces between them without filler panels right now. That may be what's throwing ya. The custom fronts fit perfectly round all the equipment.


I'll take some closer pictures, if I didn't answer your question. The custom shelves are made my mid Atlantic and are model specific to each piece of equipment.


----------



## lawdog2k

Here's a pic before rearranging equipment.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19221383
> 
> 
> Here's a pic before rearranging equipment.



Lawdog, you might take a look at the MA guide to thermal management. MA recommends stacking the amps with no space in between them and applying a fan unit for proper ventilation. Just a suggestion.


----------



## lawdog2k

I did. All 48 pages. It says to either use a fan, which I have their twin top set ( awfully loud) or to use natural convection to pull cooler air up.


I had the amps stacked with no spaces with the preamplifier right below them. They ran fine, but the preamplifier seemed warm. So, I just moved them a little.


As far as spaces go, according to mid Atlantic, as long as the front spacer in between them is solid, it won't mess up the flow of air. It's when you use vented front panels in between them that you run into air pockets and venturis interrupting the flow. Vented panels near bottom. Fan or venting near top rear of rack or in top of rack.


I'm gonna try and leave the rack open for now and see how much sound leaks out of the theater into the rest of the house.


Thanks for looking out.


Or did I read it all wrong?


----------



## Swancoat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19221376
> 
> 
> The amps fit perfectly. I have them slid forward so the heatsink fronts are out in the room. There are 1u spaces between them without filler panels right now. That may be what's throwing ya. The custom fronts fit perfectly round all the equipment.
> 
> 
> I'll take some closer pictures, if I didn't answer your question. The custom shelves are made my mid Atlantic and are model specific to each piece of equipment.



So the Rotel amps DO sit in custom shelves (but the fit is so tight I can't tell from the distance in the pic)?


----------



## lawdog2k

Yep. Fit is tight. Right on the money. I'll get better pics up this weekend. I'm outta town this week.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lawdog2k* /forum/post/19222517
> 
> 
> I did. All 48 pages. It says to either use a fan, which I have their twin top set ( awfully loud) or to use natural convection to pull cooler air up.
> 
> 
> I had the amps stacked with no spaces with the preamplifier right below them. They ran fine, but the preamplifier seemed warm. So, I just moved them a little.
> 
> 
> As far as spaces go, according to mid Atlantic, as long as the front spacer in between them is solid, it won't mess up the flow of air. It's when you use vented front panels in between them that you run into air pockets and venturis interrupting the flow. Vented panels near bottom. Fan or venting near top rear of rack or in top of rack.
> 
> 
> I'm gonna try and leave the rack open for now and see how much sound leaks out of the theater into the rest of the house.
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking out.
> 
> 
> Or did I read it all wrong?



No you read it right, just looking out for you! I did not know that you had some rack fans. You might look at the designer series. We have been using those in the majority of our installation and they are really, really quiet. And you are correct about the vented and solid blank panels. The rack looks really nice btw.


----------



## Leifashley27

Speaking of heat I noticed that the new xbox slim puts out a TON of heat compared to the previous model.


It is whisper quiet though so I'm surprised they were able to move that much heat without making much noise.


----------



## Mr. Goodcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Leifashley27* /forum/post/19223703
> 
> 
> Speaking of heat I noticed that the new xbox slim puts out a TON of heat compared to the previous model.
> 
> 
> It is whisper quiet though so I'm surprised they were able to move that much heat without making much noise.



\\|


the old apple tv's are the same way. A ton of heat and no noise, of course they do not have fan and use a large heat sink.

But don't ask Steve Jobs about it...he'll just tell you not to bother Apple!


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

Here are a couple of shots of install my company just finished up. The TV is a 58" V10 and the picture is absolutely amazing


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice


----------



## Neurorad

I'm trying to figure out the spacing between some rack-mounted components, and I'm hoping some knowledgable people might see this post.


The component manufacturer doesn't mention the spacing in their documents.


The 2 distributed amps are Class D, each is 12 channel.


How much space should I allow between each of these amps, and space above and below?


I understand the concept of the passive cooling 'chimney' behind the components, with solid front plates and filler plates, and a solid rear door, and venting at the bottom and top of the rack.


Do I need to leave any space, since they don't run that hot (Class D)? I'd really like to pack 'em in, if I can.


----------



## Swancoat

Middle Atlantic's cooling guide says you should just pack 'em in.


----------



## Neurorad

I looked pretty closely at the MA guide, and it seems to say 'keep the vents on the components clear', paraphrased.


The many diagrams for passive cooling show many components with spacing.


The multichannel amps I have are vented on the top.


I just got off the phone with the manufacturer - they said -0- spacing is needed, unless the rack/closet is really hot. If it causes a problem, then vent.










I guess I can put a temp sensor in the rack to find out how hot it's running, but I will be pretty unhappy if I have to re-rack all of the components (amps at the top). C'est la vie.


----------



## TheMoose

Here's my strong rack by Snap AV, see this thread for more info.


----------



## Swancoat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19437300
> 
> 
> I looked pretty closely at the MA guide, and it seems to say 'keep the vents on the components clear', paraphrased.
> 
> 
> The many diagrams for passive cooling show many components with spacing.
> 
> 
> The multichannel amps I have are vented on the top.
> 
> 
> I just got off the phone with the manufacturer - they said -0- spacing is needed, unless the rack/closet is really hot. If it causes a problem, then vent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I can put a temp sensor in the rack to find out how hot it's running, but I will be pretty unhappy if I have to re-rack all of the components (amps at the top). C'est la vie.



I was thinking of Page 16 of this thing: http://www.middleatlantic.com/pdf/ThermalManagement.pdf 


...of course, there's a lot of reading there, and I didn't read it all.


----------



## Neurorad

Yes, that's the document. It says most amps should be stacked directly, with passive cooling, on page 16, as you said.


But, page 17 shows how other amps, without internal fans, should be located - with rack front vents below each amp.


I guess these Class D amps that I have don't often use internal fans, like most other amps. According to MA, they should have a rack front vent below each unit.


But, manufacturer says stack directly, I'll do that. Thanks for helping, Swancoat. I wish the manufacturer stated this on their website, or in the installation instructions.


----------



## studlygoorite

Hi All;


New to the rack thing and was wondering, I have the shell of a Raxxess 19"X78" rack system. I have 11 components I would like to place in it and was needing to know what to do next. I have a list of the equipment, do I call a place like Rackmounts.com and give them the list and they will figure out what I need or is there some place that I can punch in my equipment and some sort of data base will give me the information that I need?


Thanks, John


----------



## Neurorad

Some or all of your components can be mounted with Rack Ears, brackets which mount to front sides of each component, to allow them to be hung on the front rails of the rack.


Those components that don't have rack ears can be placed on a rack-mounted shelf.


Rack ears usually come with the components. You may have to buy them from the component manufacturers.


Some companies, e.g. Middle Atlantic, can sell you a shelf with a front plate that fits neatly around the component, giving an attractive finished look to the front of the rack. But they're pretty pricey. You have to decide if you want to do that.


Your rack will need power. Some people use a long vertical power strip. Others use a rack-mount power distribution unit. Others plug directly into a rack-mount UPS.


You need to learn about cable management - how to make your cables look nice/neat, and avoid running power cables near the low voltage cables. Nicer looking racks use lacer/lacing bars, mounted behind each component, to assist in the running of cables.


Putting a rack together is really an art form. I've learned a lot from reading through multiple threads here at AVS, and at remotecentral.com custom installers forum. Lots of great pictures. But bringing it all together to a finished product takes a lot of practice, something that DIYers don't get to do often. So, my rack won't be a work of art, I've come to that realization, but I'll do my best. Do what you can, don't go overboard. Most of the great looking rear shots of racks here in this thread are from pros. My hat is off to them.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19508077
> 
> 
> Some or all of your components can be mounted with Rack Ears, brackets which mount to front sides of each component, to allow them to be hung on the front rails of the rack.
> 
> 
> Those components that don't have rack ears can be placed on a rack-mounted shelf.
> 
> 
> Rack ears usually come with the components. You may have to buy them from the component manufacturers.
> 
> 
> Some companies, e.g. Middle Atlantic, can sell you a shelf with a front plate that fits neatly around the component, giving an attractive finished look to the front of the rack. But they're pretty pricey. You have to decide if you want to do that.
> 
> 
> Your rack will need power. Some people use a long vertical power strip. Others use a rack-mount power distribution unit. Others plug directly into a rack-mount UPS.
> 
> 
> You need to learn about cable management - how to make your cables look nice/neat, and avoid running power cables near the low voltage cables. Nicer looking racks use lacer/lacing bars, mounted behind each component, to assist in the running of cables.
> 
> 
> Putting a rack together is really an art form. I've learned a lot from reading through multiple threads here at AVS, and at remotecentral.com custom installers forum. Lots of great pictures. But bringing it all together to a finished product takes a lot of practice, something that DIYers don't get to do often. So, my rack won't be a work of art, I've come to that realization, but I'll do my best. Do what you can, don't go overboard. Most of the great looking rear shots of racks here in this thread are from pros. My hat is off to them.



Thanks for the advise Neurorad, I will be getting shelves and plates but was wondering where to order from as the two places I have tried will not sell to the public. Sounds like it could be Middle Atlantic? Would they sell shelves and plates for a Raxxess Rack?


Thanks


----------



## studlygoorite

Just found that I can order the material at Parts Express. Thanks


----------



## fst96se

Quote:

Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* 
Just found that I can order the material at Parts Express. Thanks
Try performanceaudio.com out of salt lake city. They are far cheaper than anywhere else!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/19510803
> 
> 
> Try performanceaudio.com out of salt lake city. They are far cheaper than anywhere else!



Thanks for that.


----------



## Neurorad

Looks to me like performanceaudio.com has similar prices on MA lacing bars as everyone else; just bought some from another vendor last week.


----------



## Iusteve

This may or may not be the place to ask but since alot of folks in this thread use middle atlantic racks I am curious.....when I order a custom faceplate for a particular component does the order include the shelf as well or do I need to order a shelf separately? Sorry for the rookie question but I have a MA rack that I have yet to buy shelves or faceplates for so I wanted to ask actual owners first. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Moggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19530459
> 
> 
> This may or may not be the place to ask but since alot of folks in this thread use middle atlantic racks I am curious.....when I order a custom faceplate for a particular component does the order include the shelf as well or do I need to order a shelf separately? Sorry for the rookie question but I have a MA rack that I have yet to buy shelves or faceplates for so I wanted to ask actual owners first. Thanks in advance.



You can get the shelf/faceplate combo or just the faceplate. The combo includes a shelf of the correct depth for the component and is generally what you see advertised.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Moggie* /forum/post/19530524
> 
> 
> You can get the shelf/faceplate combo or just the faceplate. The combo includes a shelf of the correct depth for the component and is generally what you see advertised.



Are those what generally run at or around $100?


----------



## Moggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19530544
> 
> 
> Are those what generally run at or around $100?



Yes, that is about the price of the combo. It also include any necessary hardware like a rear support bracket and rubber standoffs if necessary.


BTW MA will also do custom work. For example I asked them to machine a faceplate for two Sonos amps side-by-side when they only listed a single. There was no increase in price.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Moggie* /forum/post/19530568
> 
> 
> Yes, that is about the price of the combo. It also include any necessary hardware like a rear support bracket and rubber standoffs if necessary.
> 
> 
> BTW MA will also do custom work. For example I asked them to machine a faceplate for two Sonos amps side-by-side when they only listed a single. There was no increase in price.



How is it determined what depth of shelf you get with the faceplate? The reason I ask is that my rack is rather deep. Did you order directly through MA? If so were their prices reasonable?


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19530629
> 
> 
> How is it determined what depth of shelf you get with the faceplate?



It's based on the equipment depth. You can search their database to find the shelf depth for any piece of equipment they already know about.



> Quote:
> The reason I ask is that my rack is rather deep.



The custom shelves only attach to the front rails, so a deep rack shouldn't be an issue.


Rear rails are typically only used for extremely heavy equipment (hundreds of pounds) or special cases that need lots of support such as slide-out keyboard/monitor trays. In a home theater situation the rear rails are mostly just used for cable management such as lacing bars.


----------



## jajell

FINALLY added the trim and finished this part of the build:











The mad dash to finish before the holidays begins!


----------



## roudy888












I'm starting to put together a A/V room and I was wondering about the patch panels I've seen in this thread. Are they strictly just used to keep cables neat and organized or is there another reason?


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roudy888* /forum/post/19577610
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting to put together a A/V room and I was wondering about the patch panels I've seen in this thread. Are they strictly just used to keep cables neat and organized or is there another reason?



That was only one reason, it does keep thing neat and un-cluttered .


If you do not have a patch panel how do you know what wire is what. My cables were NOT terminated on the wall. There is no wall plate. So I terminated all the speaker wire, sub connections, network connections and TV cables on the patch panel. Make it easy to know what each cable is. And changes are easy to make.


Plus you picked my rack photo.


Here is a more recent photo of th patch panel. More terminations.


----------



## roudy888




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/19577694
> 
> 
> That was only one reason, it does keep thing neat and un-cluttered .
> 
> 
> If you do not have a patch panel how do you know what wire is what. My cables were NOT terminated on the wall. There is no wall plate. So I terminated all the speaker wire, sub connections, network connections and TV cables on the patch panel. Make it easy to know what each cable is. And changes are easy to make.
> 
> 
> Plus you picked my rack photo.
> 
> 
> Here is a more recent photo of th patch panel. More terminations.



Thanks for the info! I figured that's all it was but then my head got spinning and I was thinking maybe there's some super complicated reason behind it! So the speaker wires come out of the back side of the panel and then out of the rack to wherever?


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roudy888* /forum/post/19577794
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info! I figured that's all it was but then my head got spinning and I was thinking maybe there's some super complicated reason behind it! So the speaker wires come out of the back side of the panel and then out of the rack to wherever?



You can see the all the speaker wires are just short jumper cables. TV cables are longer and extend up or down the rack. with the TV cable is make it real easy to change for an over-the-air antenna or to Charter cable etc... just swap the cables on the patch panel.


----------



## greg_mitch

I was going to buy the casters for my Middle Atlantic Slim 5 rack...but got to thinking there might be a WAY cheaper caster that works just the same at Menards/Home Depot/Lowes/etc.


Anyone know the specs for the casters so I can grab a cheaper version? Or has anyone successfully used a different caster on the slim 5 rack?


Thanks!


----------



## studlygoorite

Hey guys, quick question here, I have my rack and have ordered shelves and face plates. Question is, do I install all equipment then figure out what spacer panels I need or is that something I should have done beforehand? I was thinking that once I have everything installed then I would measure each gap for a panel, I'm sure I wouldn't have to wait too long to get them after my equipment is installed.


John


----------



## HDvids4all




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19588025
> 
> 
> I have my rack and have ordered shelves and face plates. Question is, do I install all equipment then figure out what spacer panels I need or is that something I should have done beforehand?
> 
> John



Download and install RackTools from Middle Atlantic...this should help work out your spacing issues.


----------



## Chris Knout

Quote:

Originally Posted by *greg_mitch* 
I was going to buy the casters for my Middle Atlantic Slim 5 rack...but got to thinking there might be a WAY cheaper caster that works just the same at Menards/Home Depot/Lowes/etc.


Anyone know the specs for the casters so I can grab a cheaper version? Or has anyone successfully used a different caster on the slim 5 rack?


Thanks!


Not sure if you're looking for the whole base, or just the casters, but you can actually get Middle Atlantic's 5W - just the 4 caster wheels, which isn't at a bad price (under $40)


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HDvids4all* 
Download and install RackTools from Middle Atlantic...this should help work out your spacing issues.
Thanks for this HDvids4all.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fst96se* /forum/post/19510803
> 
> 
> Try performanceaudio.com out of salt lake city. They are far cheaper than anywhere else!



+1


That is where I get all my MA gear from. They also have coupons which make it even cheaper.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris Knout* /forum/post/19588950
> 
> 
> Not sure if you're looking for the whole base, or just the casters, but you can actually get Middle Atlantic's 5W - just the 4 caster wheels, which isn't at a bad price (under $40)



Yep those work very well. Got those on mine-


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/19589940
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> That is where I get all my MA gear from. They also have couons which make it even cheaper.



Please feel free to share and/or pm me with coupon links


----------



## Spizz

 http://www.tjoos.com/Coupon/8145/Performance-Audio 


Those 2 are the ones I use on my orders over $100. Mostly when I get a new Custom Rackshelf, etc. Combined with their free shipping its a win, win.


----------



## greg_mitch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris Knout* /forum/post/19588950
> 
> 
> Not sure if you're looking for the whole base, or just the casters, but you can actually get Middle Atlantic's 5W - just the 4 caster wheels, which isn't at a bad price (under $40)



What are the specs though?


While $40 isn't bad...Menards has some heavy duty casters for $4 a piece so $16 total is way better than $40 if I knew the bolt pattern, etc.


I suppose I will have to unload and tip over to measure it all up.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Anyone have good sources for Slim 5 compatible accessories at a reasonable price? In particular, I need a 4U shelf, deeper than the standard 2U shelves I have - needs to be > 16" deep - for Pioneer 1120K.


I'll check performance audio which was mentioned earlier.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19622017
> 
> 
> Anyone have good sources for Slim 5 compatible accessories at a reasonable price? In particular, I need a 4U shelf, deeper than the standard 2U shelves I have - needs to be > 16" deep - for Pioneer 1120K.
> 
> 
> I'll check performance audio which was mentioned earlier.



http://www.gruber.com


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/19622190
> 
> http://www.gruber.com



Thanks GP - nice prices. Looks like they don't have a 4U shelf though. performanceaudio has a decent price on the U4V, just need to check if its deep enough (the feet on my 1120K bump into the back of the 2U shelf its on right now, making the font hang over about an inch).


----------



## ani216

I love it, keep the pictures coming







...one dumb question i have though is: I have seen people with their PS3 and XBOX mounted in the rack and the rack in inside of another room. How do you play games or control the systems for that matter? Im just getting ready to startup rack mounting my equipment but i cant figure out how i will control the consoles.


Thanks in advanced,


Andrew


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ani216* /forum/post/19693030
> 
> 
> I love it, keep the pictures coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Personally I think the pictures have gone downhill since page 1...Art where are you...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

About the PS3/Xbox360.....


Don't you have wireless remotes? Those are RF right? As long as that and your remote if you have one are RF I would assume it doesn't matter if your rack is out of sight?


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ani216* /forum/post/19693030
> 
> 
> I love it, keep the pictures coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...one dumb question i have though is: I have seen people with their PS3 and XBOX mounted in the rack and the rack in inside of another room. How do you play games or control the systems for that matter? Im just getting ready to startup rack mounting my equipment but i cant figure out how i will control the consoles.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advanced,
> 
> 
> Andrew





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19695155
> 
> 
> About the PS3/Xbox360.....
> 
> 
> Don't you have wireless remotes? Those are RF right? As long as that and your remote if you have one are RF I would assume it doesn't matter if your rack is out of sight?



PS3 controllers are wireless via Bluetooth and XBOX 360 controllers are available in wireless via RF.


I have my PS3 mounted in my rack in the basement media room where it gets used the most.


Occasionally my wife and I will want to watch a movie and my son will want to play the PS3 so I have an HDMI run to the plasma upstairs in the living room and he will play the PS3 on that TV without issue. I have tested my PS3 at a distance of 30' through several walls and it still has no issues with connectivity.

I don't have an XBOX 360 so but I would think the the RF capabilities are the same.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brent A* /forum/post/19697083
> 
> 
> I have tested my PS3 at a distance of 30' through several walls and it still has no issues with connectivity.



30' for the controllers? No wonder why my hands are numb, warm and have a slight green glow to them after playing GT5


----------



## roudy888

For those of you using a monitor as a way to get things ready before turning the projector on what do you run for cables? Go from Blu-ray player to projector with HDMI then what do you run to your monitor? I'm assuming you don't want to split your HDMI signal? Do you just run everything through your A/V receiver?


Hope this makes sense...


----------



## mikieson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roudy888* /forum/post/19697786
> 
> 
> For those of you using a monitor as a way to get things ready before turning the projector on what do you run for cables? Go from Blu-ray player to projector with HDMI then what do you run to your monitor? I'm assuming you don't want to split your HDMI signal? Do you just run everything through your A/V receiver?
> 
> 
> Hope this makes sense...



I have yet to see an a/v receiver with enough hookups..I wonder if there is a external device that will allow like 10 component/composite/HDMI?? and NOT lose quality?? Really hate how tech changes sometimes..leaves oldschoolers in the dust looking for options sometimes..


----------



## smithl3

So you all have motivated me to move some things around in my basement. I just finished the area last year and had an extra doorway to my cold cellar that I didn't really need. So............ I yanked out the door and framed in a 36 inch tall opening for my structured media cabinet. And I had enough room for some DVD shelving too. Took some idea's from some other members on here that I liked.


Thanks for the help and once I get it all done I will post it up.


----------



## Quadcam99

Hey guys,


I'm in the works of planning out my in-wall DIY cabinet, but I'm confused as to how I should get my plasma TV connected to the APC power conditioner/surge protector that will be mounted in my cabinet.


How do you guys usually do this? My TV is on the opposite end of the room as my cabinet, and I don't think a 30'-40'extension cord is at all an option.


I'd imagine this is a common question, so my apologies.


Your input would be greatly appreciated.


Thank you very much,

Cam


----------



## Quaid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quadcam99* /forum/post/19788701
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I'm in the works of planning out my in-wall DIY cabinet, but I'm confused as to how I should get my plasma TV connected to the APC power conditioner/surge protector that will be mounted in my cabinet.
> 
> 
> How do you guys usually do this? My TV is on the opposite end of the room as my cabinet, and I don't think a 30'-40'extension cord is at all an option.
> 
> 
> I'd imagine this is a common question, so my apologies.
> 
> 
> Your input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much,
> 
> Cam



I would like to know this also please.


----------



## Art Sonneborn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19694784
> 
> 
> Personally I think the pictures have gone downhill since page 1...Art where are you...



Sorry, not much new with me.


Art


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quadcam99* /forum/post/19788701
> 
> 
> I'm in the works of planning out my in-wall DIY cabinet, but I'm confused as to how I should get my plasma TV connected to the APC power conditioner/surge protector that will be mounted in my cabinet.
> 
> 
> How do you guys usually do this? My TV is on the opposite end of the room as my cabinet, and I don't think a 30'-40'extension cord is at all an option.=



Search for 'power bridge'


many different manufacturers, Monoprice is one (but not aware of quality)


try to find some reviews


----------



## Quadcam99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19791176
> 
> 
> Search for 'power bridge'
> 
> 
> many different manufacturers, Monoprice is one (but not aware of quality)
> 
> 
> try to find some reviews



Thank you very much for that info, Neurorad; I've found two different units.


Are there any fellow Canadians that have one of these? I found the one at Monoprice, but if I can find something closer, at a comparable price, it would be preferable because I'd receive it sooner.


Thanks


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Art Sonneborn* /forum/post/19790314
> 
> 
> Sorry, not much new with me.
> 
> 
> Art



I think they are referring to your mobile racks on the first page, not your theater rack (the two ladies signing autographs).


----------



## smithl3

Getting closer...... Just need to buy a new TV and get everything Hooked up.... THe DVD Rack on the right and media cabinet on left...


I ordered an articulating mount for a corner TV location and every kind of 15' cable you would need to hook it all up. Looking forward to watching TV down there....


----------



## filetandrelease




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/9477226
> 
> 
> My Wife said she didn't want to look at equipment.



BMDC-

do u have any details of that swing open column you could show or share? I want to do something similar to cover a crawl space door


----------



## Iusteve

I need some help from anyone who owns a middle atlantic slim 5 series rack. I ran into a LARGE problem with my current rack as I found out the hard way its too wide to fit my space. What is the outside width of the slim series racks? I know the inside depth to mount shelves is 19" but I cant find anywhere the "true" outside width. Thanks for your help


EDIT


I also am interested in hearing from anyone who has used the MA rail kits rather than the racks themselves. I am trying to custom fit a space that is 24" wide and the MA rack that I have is 24.25"..........story of my life!! Any input?


----------



## Dean Coop

True outside dimension of my slim 5 rack is 19 1/8" wide (on page 13 or so). I've also used just the rails for a few clients and it works well provided that you are very precise on the opening dimensions. The real issue with using just the rails takes away most of your options for cable managment.


Dean


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dean Coop* /forum/post/19958967
> 
> 
> True outside dimension of my slim 5 rack is 19 1/8" wide (on page 13 or so). I've also used just the rails for a few clients and it works well provided that you are very precise on the opening dimensions. The real issue with using just the rails takes away most of your options for cable managment.
> 
> 
> Dean



Thanks for the reply. I now dont think the slim 5 will work for me. I framed and drywalled an opening w/rear access via a closet that was supposed to be 24 1/4" wide when finished but I think my drywaller used 5/8" in that area when I requested 1/4" and now my finished opening is 24" and my WRK series rack is 24 1/4" which is not going to work so now I need to sell the WRK and get probably and EGR series which is 23" OD. Bottom line I dont see a way to make the slim 5 or rack rails work do you?


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19959367
> 
> 
> I dont see a way to make the slim 5 or rack rails work do you?



If you really wanted to, you could mount some additional framing about 2.5" from each side and mount the rails directly to that, then dress up the gaps in the front somehow.


But buying some other pre-built rack is certainly the easiest approach. As mentioned, when you mount the rails yourself you have to be _very_ precise about measurements and if you get it off by just a mm or two you can run into problems down the road. When I mounted my rails I bought various metal, rubber, and cork shim washers and kept adding/removing/loosening/tightening things until I got the right dimensions top and bottom. Even then I've found some equipment fits better than others. For example although most rack gear has wide holes for the mounting screws, not all vendors center those holes at the same distance so in the end you have to get the rails dead perfect or you'll probably find that something won't fit.


Also, I agree with Dean Coop that using the bare rails makes cable mangement more difficult. A freestanding rack has the ability to mount a set of back rails that can support lacing bars/channels behind the equipment. When you only have front rails you can end up with cables hanging unsupported and pulling on their connectors. HDMI in particular tends to have heavy cables and not-very-sturdy connectors. In my previous setup I had a front-rail-only in-wall rack for the main equipment and a hidden freestanding rack for amplifiers, TiVo, etc. After using lacing bars on the big rack I really missed not having them on the in-wall rack. BTW If you don't have back rails the Middle Atlantic custom shelves can help (for a price), because they have lacing slots built in the back edge and the vented sides make it easy to attach cables to the sides of the shelves as they pass by.


----------



## Iusteve

Anyone with good suggestions on places to purchase MA racks (not shelving) that is reasonably priced could you PM me your suggestions I dont really want to clutter up this thread for that. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Neurorad

Where to source MA products is a GREAT addition to this thread. I've done a lot of searching, and buying, without finding good deals.


MA does a fantastic job of protecting their dealers.


fleabay for used MA products, and small quantities.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19976468
> 
> 
> Where to source MA products is a GREAT addition to this thread. I've done a lot of searching, and buying, without finding good deals.
> 
> 
> MA does a fantastic job of protecting their dealers.
> 
> 
> fleabay for used MA products, and small quantities.



Very true however I need an entire rack and the options on the "Bay" are very limited. I was looking for an online dealer that would ship to me reasonably. I've found a few but I dont know the rules regarding posting their names here so that I can see what if any experience people here have had or heard from them


----------



## Neurorad

You can find local dealers through the MA website. Save on shipping.


You can prob get better pricing by speaking directly with the local dealer BY PHONE.


The local guys will have better service, too, than some random online vendor.


And you'll be glad to have that local contact when you need 4 more screws to finish the job.










Check out MA's L-shaped lacer/lacing bars. I think they add a lot to style, and a clean look. Available in different offsets - 0", 2", 4". Usually the minimum purchase is 10/pack. Find a good local dealer. I did not, and I wasted a lot of money, buying 30 lacing bars.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19977980
> 
> 
> You can find local dealers through the MA website. Save on shipping.
> 
> 
> You can prob get better pricing by speaking directly with the local dealer BY PHONE.
> 
> 
> The local guys will have better service, too, than some random online vendor.
> 
> 
> And you'll be glad to have that local contact when you need 4 more screws to finish the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out MA's L-shaped lacer/lacing bars. I think they add a lot to style, and a clean look. Available in different offsets - 0", 2", 4". Usually the minimum purchase is 10/pack. Find a good local dealer. I did not, and I wasted a lot of money, buying 30 lacing bars.



Problem is I cant seem to find a dealer close to me. So far Indianapolis is the closest which is 3 hours away. For roughly $100 I can have the rack shipped to me from an online vendor. It would cost me that in gas and time to go to Indy


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19978225
> 
> 
> Problem is I cant seem to find a dealer close to me. So far Indianapolis is the closest which is 3 hours away. For roughly $100 I can have the rack shipped to me from an online vendor. It would cost me that in gas and time to go to Indy



Oh, yeah. You're screwed.


I'm looking at a map of Indiana and there is this huge blank spot with no interstates, between I65 and I69.


----------



## petew

Here's a shot from a few feet back showing the whole rack. Since this was taken I've changed things some. More recent closeup follows.












Some revisions here - cleaned up a mess of network cables and swapped out my ancient Rotel prepro for a less ancient Outlaw 990











And a partial shot of the back.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19979186
> 
> 
> Oh, yeah. You're screwed.
> 
> 
> I'm looking at a map of Indiana and there is this huge blank spot with no interstates, between I65 and I69.



Where did you see this map? And do you have one of Southern Michigan or extreme eastern ohio? I am 2 miles from the Michigan/Indiana line and about an hour from Toledo?


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19979520
> 
> 
> Where did you see this map? And do you have one of Southern Michigan or extreme eastern ohio?



I used google maps. Yes, Southern Michigan and extreme eastern Ohio are included.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19979520
> 
> 
> I am 2 miles from the Michigan/Indiana line and about an hour from Toledo?



Yes, I believe you.



> Quote:
> Is this some kind of bust?



Yes, it's very impressive.


Since you can't locate a local vendor, then I suggest you find an online vendor that has great service. I've been happy with my purchases through ASIHome.com, AutomatedOutlet.com, and setnetpro.com - 3 distributors that may sell MA, not certain. You'll have to telephone them.


Yes, phone.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/19981177
> 
> 
> I used google maps. Yes, Southern Michigan and extreme eastern Ohio are included.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I believe you.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's very impressive.
> 
> 
> Since you can't locate a local vendor, then I suggest you find an online vendor that has great service. I've been happy with my purchases through ASIHome.com, AutomatedOutlet.com, and setnetpro.com - 3 distributors that may sell MA, not certain. You'll have to telephone them.
> 
> 
> Yes, phone.



I found some good prices at a few online sites including av alive dot com and acmelectronics dot com but have never done business with them


----------



## Art Sonneborn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/19803613
> 
> 
> I think they are referring to your mobile racks on the first page, not your theater rack (the two ladies signing autographs).



Let me have my delusions please.










Art


----------



## Iusteve

Those of you using MA racks I am curious to know what depth rack you are using? And is a 20" deep rack going to pose any issues for me and my components?


I wanted a deeper rack but unfortunately to get one that will fit the width of my opening (24") and my height (70") I am going to have to go with a MA rack with fixed sides which means I have to go with a less deep rack since I have about 6 electrical and low voltage boxes on one side wall of my opening that are roughly 22" back from the front of the opening. The rack I have (that I am selling) is the 24.25" wide rack and has open sides so this wouldnt have been an issue but its too wide and too tall.


----------



## Iusteve

Bueller.............Bueller.............Bueller............? ?? LOL


----------



## NicksHitachi

Since this is THE Rack thread thought I would share...... Sorry the pic is so bad its hard to take any pictures in my room all walls are painted "dark secret" this pic even has two shop halogen flood lights as well as the six can lights from the room running...... All DIY by the way


----------



## kevin g.

How did you build your faceplates?


----------



## NicksHitachi

5/16 tempered hardboard(Lowes) painted black.....


----------



## Iusteve

Anyone using or know if I will have an issue using a 20" deep Middle Atlantic rack? I am somewhat limited in what depth I can go due to some outlets and such.


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20024742
> 
> 
> Anyone using or know if I will have an issue using a 20" deep Middle Atlantic rack? I am somewhat limited in what depth I can go due to some outlets and such.



that should be fine provided nothing you have has feet deeper than 20", and hanging out the back wont run into anything. I think mine is only 16" deep


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vcook* /forum/post/20025371
> 
> 
> that should be fine provided nothing you have has feet deeper than 20", and hanging out the back wont run into anything. I think mine is only 16" deep



Does MA even make a 16" deep rack?


----------



## Vcook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20026728
> 
> 
> Does MA even make a 16" deep rack?



Mine is a more basic MA rack but it more than meets my needs: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=262-410


----------



## zuluwalker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicksHitachi* /forum/post/19995474
> 
> 
> 5/16 tempered hardboard(Lowes) painted black.....



They look great! Very clean lines in the cut. What did you use to cut them out? Love the wood trim!!


----------



## NicksHitachi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuluwalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> They look great! Very clean lines in the cut. What did you use to cut them out? Love the wood trim!!



I used a circ saw and reciprocating saw..... Not that hard really, whole rack prob cost less than buying just the faceplates! It looks better without the two flood lights, 6 can lights, and camera flash highlighting all the textures but I had to to get a Picture in my DARKKKKK room.


----------



## zuluwalker

My ever evolving rack, and gear


----------



## zuluwalker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicksHitachi* /forum/post/20031181
> 
> 
> I used a circ saw and reciprocating saw..... Not that hard really, whole rack prob cost less than buying just the faceplates! It looks better without the two flood lights, 6 can lights, and camera flash highlighting all the textures but I had to to get a Picture in my DARKKKKK room.



I really want to add face plates too. You have inspired me to give it a try! Again, it looks really good, great job. I love the clean front.


Right now I have an issue with cold air and warm air rushing over the equipment carrying dust...instead of the cold air just cooling the equipment.


----------



## Iusteve

Does anyone know if its possible or know of anyone that has used the MA RSH custom faceplates and mounted them directly to a framed opening on a custom shelf (wood or whatever) rather than using a MA rack with the MA shelves?


I considered buying just the RSH faceplates and framing a rack and wanted to possibly just build shelves out of lumber and attach the RSH plates directly to the lumber to save the costs of purchasing an actual MA rack. Anyone?


----------



## kevin g.

If you are doing that...why not just get a couple rack rails, and rough in your opening to accommodate the correct width? This will allow you to bolt the faceplates in as normal... no one will ever know.

I plan something similar for mine at a later time, it was just more economical for me to do the custom shelf...


----------



## Iusteve

Anyone interested in a gently used Middle Atlantic rack PM me for info as I have one to pass on.

This is the series I have, 37U


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone interested in a gently used Middle Atlantic rack PM me for info as I have one to pass on.
> 
> This is the series I have, 37U



Shame you're not in Australia. I'm looking for that kind of thing


----------



## marklabelle870




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/19978225
> 
> 
> Problem is I cant seem to find a dealer close to me. So far Indianapolis is the closest which is 3 hours away. For roughly $100 I can have the rack shipped to me from an online vendor. It would cost me that in gas and time to go to Indy



Hey Steve, check out Craig's List and search Detroit for Middle Atlantic Rack. There is a guy on there - he has a website, but I can't seem to find it - that recovers racks from bankrupt auto companies. 


My buddy down the street got 2 of the ERK 4025's for $200 with 10" fans, doors, etc. in great shape. I paid $700.00 shipped for 1 ERK 4025. His is the same EXACT thing. Kinda pissed me off.










If I find the site, I'll forward it over. He's in Southfield, MI and has a warehouse full of this stuff. Blanks, shelfs, fans, power strips, etc.


Thanks,


Mark


----------



## marklabelle870

 http://www.techconsultants.net/deals/ 


Here's the guys website - it doesn't list nearly what he has in that warehouse.


----------



## Iusteve

Awesome thanks I will check out. I am a few hours from detroit but may be worth the drive.


----------



## morgbug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20063493
> 
> 
> Anyone interested in a gently used Middle Atlantic rack PM me for info as I have one to pass on.
> 
> This is the series I have, 37U



Sent you a message on the rack.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/20065638
> 
> 
> Shame you're not in Australia. I'm looking for that kind of thing



You can get MA racks in Australia. You can check out my thread over on DTV.


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can get MA racks in Australia. You can check out my thread over on DTV.



Oh, awesome. Can you give me a link please!


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/20127244
> 
> 
> Oh, awesome. Can you give me a link please!


 http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...iddle+atlantic


----------



## JJasonS

Hi, I a looking for a dealer to give me a quote to supply me with a Middle Atlantic LT-1RA rack light, with international shipping to the UK. I am looking for an _*economical*_ shipping option, I do not mind waiting a couple of weeks. I have looked at a few US web sites who ship to the UK and have been quoted more for shipping than the cost of the light unit







Any help/tips greatly welcomed.


----------



## greg_mitch

Trying to revamp my rack. Here is the initial exercise, but then I decided to clean out the rack a bit.











Here is the start...











I have a 3U and 4U Middle Atlantic Rack shelves that I used to be using but now would like to either sell these or swap them for 2U selves. Any takers?


----------



## LukFilm

Are most of these outside the HT room?


----------



## NicksHitachi

I don't know about "most," but if possible yes.


----------



## AndyMcKenna

I'm still years away from building my theater but I couldn't pass up a free 42U rack. All I had to pay for was renting a van to bring it home.


----------



## JeffC

Finally finished my DIY rack and custom faceplate's! Turned into a bigger project than I was anticipating but turned out pretty good I think. Very hard to get a good picture but she looks pretty cool with the red glow















































Detailed build in my construction thread if interested


Cheers Jeff


----------



## LukFilm

I'll build a closet outside my eventual HT for this shortly, is 24" x 24" big enough?


----------



## JeffC

2ft by 2 ft? good luck my friend


----------



## mystic_sniper28

i would need a room near om to cover 5k+ in dvd's anf brd's, nevermind the mtv rack to cover thenetwok & ht gear..


----------



## NicksHitachi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LukFilm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll build a closet outside my eventual HT for this shortly, is 24" x 24" big enough?



my rack itself is 2x2 and it's tight.....


----------



## Iusteve

Anyone still paying attention to this thread that has a MA rack and RSH shelves and faceplates can you pm me (or post here) where you got your RSH plates at? Obviously price and good CS are most important. Thanks


----------



## jerry_rotel_fan

Hi everyone, I recently bought a MA Slim 5 and I had planned on mounting the shelves today when I noticed the bag of screws that was shipped were the wrong size - HP 24 12-24 rack screws. I believe I need the 10-32 3/4" rack screws. I'm anxious to begin and wanted to know if I could go to a local store such as Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same screws? I'm new at this, so any suggestions you have I would appreciate greatly.


Thanks.


Jerry


----------



## petew

You'll likely get the right thread and length but you will get a crappy slot head. You may be able to find a cap screw (allen head) at HD.

Here is something that might work.


----------



## NicksHitachi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerry_rotel_fan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I recently bought a MA Slim 5 and I had planned on mounting the shelves today when I noticed the bag of screws that was shipped were the wrong size - HP 24 12-24 rack screws. I believe I need the 10-32 3/4" rack screws. I'm anxious to begin and wanted to know if I could go to a local store such as Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same screws? I'm new at this, so any suggestions you have I would appreciate greatly.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Jerry



PE sells a bag of 100 with washers for like 10 bucks, they work real good.....


----------



## jerry_rotel_fan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petew* /forum/post/20283421
> 
> 
> You'll likely get the right thread and length but you will get a crappy slot head. You may be able to find a cap screw (allen head) at HD.
> 
> Here is something that might work.



I'll check that out today and let everyone know what I find. I should have mentioned in my original post that my rack will be sitting in a separate closet and I won't have a need for custom faceplates for now, although that is an option for the future. Thanks.


----------



## Tedd

The MA screws have a washer, to help minimise the rash marks on face plates. And are the screws not softer then the rack rails, and designed not to strip out the rack rail? Might be reason enough to source the MA screws.


----------



## Neurorad

In a pinch, I picked up a handful of rack screws at the local Ace Hardware. Brought 1 with me, they matched it perfectly - but I don't use black screws.


----------



## Swancoat

Loved reading this thread. I'm now happy to contribute by posting mine.


Standard stuff. Slim 5-37.


----------



## sebberry

A home for every remote, love it!


----------



## Iusteve

Very nice clean install. Looks great!!!


----------



## NicksHitachi

me likey.


----------



## Neurorad

Perfect job, Swancoat.


----------



## Backlash

I have one very much like swan coat's but about 2/3rds as tall. How can I effectively cool it though? Open in the back in a 55-65°F basement, but only about 2.5" above my two receivers/amplifiers.


I was using muffin fans to cool those, but the new receiver vents out the top, not the back. The sides are solid and I was thinking of cutting holes in one side and pulling air across the units from slots cut in the other side. Problem there is the least resistance to flow is to pull from the back which won't cool the units.


----------



## Neurorad

Are you using blank plates to cover the gap above the 2 receivers/amplifiers? You can buy rack mount fans to replace a blank plate.


A pic would be helpful.


You could consider increasing the spacing, between the hot components.


----------



## sathyakamaraj

Flexi Rack Ripped from *Here* 


Poor Man's Rack


Rack Size : 5' Tall, 2' X 2' Wood

Materials :

3/4" AT Rod, 64 Bolts & Nuts, 7/8" Drill Bit, Wood Stain.


Basic Rack Design






























Planing to install some crown molding and 120 MM fans on sides...


----------



## tbraden32




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Swancoat* /forum/post/20377234
> 
> 
> Loved reading this thread. I'm now happy to contribute by posting mine.
> 
> 
> Standard stuff. Slim 5-37.



Swan,


What kind of money do you have involved in this build and what materials did you use?


Looks Awesome BTW...!


----------



## CBProd

does know where i get get a MA rack in the toronto area?


----------



## lgemmill

Try Solutions AV, they are in Markham. That is where I purchased mine.

http://solutionsav.ca 


Lance


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice rack design, would be a bit of a ***** to move without removing all the gear 1st, a ma rack on wheels makes light work shifting gear from place to place...


----------



## gregdpw

Here is the rack I am working on. I am almost done. I just need to put my second coat of polyurethane on it. It's made out of just over one sheet of birchwood. So really it only costed me about 50 bucks. It's 48 inches high by 20.







[/IMG]







[/IMG]


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice rack


----------



## morgbug

Picked up a Middle Atlantic Slim 5 earlier this week. Opted for the 37 space rack; hoping that's big enough.


----------



## dparikh

Very simple and clean..Middle Atlantic rack with a mix of shelves and direct racking...

Attachment 214361


----------



## pterpm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dparikh* /forum/post/20547616
> 
> 
> Very simple and clean..Middle Atlantic rack with a mix of shelves and direct racking...
> 
> Attachment 214361



how do you get all the shelves, can show me where to get this, i'm wana get one

please, help

thanks


----------



## mystic_sniper28

i'd say a mid atlantic rack encased in mdf


----------



## dparikh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pterpm* /forum/post/20568889
> 
> 
> how do you get all the shelves, can show me where to get this, i'm wana get one
> 
> please, help
> 
> thanks



The shelf, as sniper mentioned, is Middle Atlantic in MDF

http://www.customavrack.com/Category...ate-racks.aspx 


You can source shelves, blank plates, etc from various sources. Most of mine came from Smarthome.com


----------



## damienbuckley

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Spizz*
http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...iddle+atlantic
Thanks for this - bit belated I know - just getting round to sorting my room out... looking to do something similar to yours but built-in and about half the size. Cheers


----------



## gregdpw

here is my new av rack. sorry about the crappy iphone pic









[/IMG]


----------



## mystic_sniper28

Iphone be damned lol best pic I ever seen from a mobile/cell phone congrats good looking rack there greg..


----------



## mj-barton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *parkds* /forum/post/18934209
> 
> 
> I have been lurking on here for the past few months. I have been working to build my first rack mount and have it integrated into an new living room built in. I live in NYC, so unfortunately I do not have space for the amazing setups so many of you have. Instead I had to work with an already existing alcove without knocking down or cutting holes into any walls. I was not been able to find any examples on avs of people integrating a full rack into a piece of furniture so I thought I would share.



Beautiful work! Any photos on the ventilation system? I've been toying with the idea but for credenza. My fiance and I are rents will likely be for the next couple years, so portability is key.


----------



## mailinator

Anyone here have experience with ACMElectronics? They have the best prices by far on MA gear, and sell through Amazon with decent reviews, but I was surprised to not see references to them in this thread...


----------



## mystic_sniper28

parkds the only thing i'd do is gut the paneling out the door and add blackish/purple perspex in fof windows and it would be set no trouble with ir's then


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mailinator* /forum/post/20707620
> 
> 
> Anyone here have experience with ACMElectronics? They have the best prices by far on MA gear, and sell through Amazon with decent reviews, but I was surprised to not see references to them in this thread...



I purchased my middle atlantic rack directly from their site with absolutely no issues. The rack arrived packaged REALLY well though it was drop shipped from MA. I contacted MA prior to ordering to make sure they were an authorized dealer and they in fact are.


----------



## Neurorad

Could swear that ACMElectronics post was spam.


I only thought they sold Roadrunner-specific equipment.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

lol was I wondering good old wilecoyote gag was going to come into play..


----------



## Lic265

I built this rack by copying the design from Salamander. I already had the MDF shelves, so i painted black, got some 5/8 threaded rod and nuts/washers. Casters on the bottom to aid in moving about. A good bit less money and simple to make.


----------



## MatthewH




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lic265* /forum/post/20734546
> 
> 
> I built this rack by copying the design from Salamander. I already had the MDF shelves, so i painted black, got some 5/8 threaded rod and nuts/washers. Casters on the bottom to aid in moving about. A good bit less money and simple to make.



looks great!!!


----------



## Seadaddy

Here is my rack still working on it


----------



## Backlash

What are you doing to cool components? pretty, but the clearance on the sides seems minimal.


----------



## Seadaddy

the only one that generates much heat is my denon vp and i keep a good amount of room above it. there is about a foot of space behind the rack. i have never had any heat issues so far


----------



## parkds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mj-barton* /forum/post/20657628
> 
> 
> Beautiful work! Any photos on the ventilation system? I've been toying with the idea but for credenza. My fiance and I are rents will likely be for the next couple years, so portability is key.



mj-barton,

Thanks! It took a lot of work and even more planning. I do not have any photos of the ventilation for the unit, but I can take some if you would like. It is pretty simple though.


For air intake, the kick plate below the built-in has a gap to allow air to flow and then there is a cut out in the bottom of the rack mount cabinet, in between the two rails.


For exhaust, the cabinet directly above the rack mount is only about 10" deep. This provides space for a hole to be cut into the top of the rack mount's cabinet directly above the fans. The hot air then escapes upward in the space behind the top cabinet. To keep the hot air from accumulating, the entire built-in is about 8" short of the ceiling.


Let me know if you have more questions or if I wasn't clear enough.


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *parkds* /forum/post/20867847
> 
> 
> mj-barton,
> 
> Thanks! It took a lot of work and even more planning. I do not have any photos of the ventilation for the unit, but I can take some if you would like. It is pretty simple though.
> 
> 
> For air intake, the kick plate below the built-in has a gap to allow air to flow and then there is a cut out in the bottom of the rack mount cabinet, in between the two rails.
> 
> 
> For exhaust, the cabinet directly above the rack mount is only about 10" deep. This provides space for a hole to be cut into the top of the rack mount's cabinet directly above the fans. The hot air then escapes upward in the space behind the top cabinet. To keep the hot air from accumulating, the entire built-in is about 8" short of the ceiling.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have more questions or if I wasn't clear enough.



Well-described.


Falling Water Lego set? Hatch Show prints? Fine taste, sir.










I picked up a Hatch Show print a couple months ago, the last time I saw the Flaming Lips here in town.


----------



## parkds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/20868349
> 
> 
> Well-described.
> 
> 
> Falling Water Lego set? Hatch Show prints? Fine taste, sir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a Hatch Show print a couple months ago, the last time I saw the Flaming Lips here in town.



Thanks!


Good eyes on catching those Hatch Prints. They are so unique! I try to pick one up every time I am able to get out of NYC and catch a show at the Ryman...have even had them custom make posters for fundraising events (which is a fun process).


----------



## OPPIZ

I came across this thread while doing a Google search for pics of a custom rackshelf mounted Pioneer SC-55 receiver. After looking thru all 37 pages, I decided to share a few older misc... pics. My first exposure to custom racked gear, was back in 1999, when I had a subscription to the old *Audio Video Interiors* magazine. After years of dreaming, I made my purchase in early 2008. My rack allows me to enjoy my gear from the past & present, while keeping things centralized for simple control with a Harmony One remote, when laying in bed. In the future( when I buy a house ), I plan on going with an in-wall install, like most of the rest of you. I should have some up to date pics by the end of the year.


I have a photo gallery here: http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gal...p?member=ZIPPO 

I post periodic system updates here: http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=137260


----------



## AirBenji

OPPIZ - that is a *nice* rack! I really like those slide-out MA lights. Is that a VHS _tape player_ I spy????


----------



## ragged




OPPIZ said:


> Very very nice. How did you mount the fan controller that's at the top of the rack? Is that one from cooler guys?
> 
> 
> I'd love to do the same.


----------



## Neurorad

Have to say OPPIZ, that your rack cable management is tip top, as seen on your linked pages. Nice work, keeping power separate from signals.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AirBenji* /forum/post/21015256
> 
> 
> OPPIZ - that is a *nice* rack! I really like those slide-out MA lights. Is that a VHS _tape player_ I spy????



Thanks. Yes, a SONY SLV-M11HF.




ragged said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ* /forum/post/21014164
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very very nice. How did you mount the fan controller that's at the top of the rack? Is that one from cooler guys?
> 
> 
> I'd love to do the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes it is( http://www.coolerguys.com/840556091677.html ). I had to replace the controller rack plate, because the screw holes didn't line up properly with the rack rail holes. I modified( filed the opening wider ) a one space Decora panel & used it instead.
Click to expand...


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21015468
> 
> 
> Have to say OPPIZ, that your rack cable management is tip top, as seen on your linked pages. Nice work, keeping power separate from signals.



Thanks.


----------



## shuizinga

 Attachment 228816 

Attachment 228817


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shuizinga* /forum/post/21254295
> 
> Attachment 228816
> 
> Attachment 228817



That's certainly unique.


Now can you run the cables hidden in the post?


----------



## damienbuckley

Hmmm, third damaged rack delivered. Urge caution when ordering from 4cabling.com.au. Not impressed



Attachment 228887


----------



## mystic_sniper28

sweet racks keep 'em coming


----------



## sebberry

New receiver so the rack wiring got a bit of a refresh:


__
https://flic.kr/p/6479496799
​ 
__
https://flic.kr/p/6479496799
​ front[/URL] by sebbles1 , on Flickr


__
https://flic.kr/p/6479497801
​ 
__
https://flic.kr/p/6479497801
​ by sebbles1 , on Flickr


__
https://flic.kr/p/6479498723
​ 
__
https://flic.kr/p/6479498723
​ by sebbles1 , on Flickr


----------



## dvmiller

Nice work sebberry! I am thinking of using the same shelf clip system. What type of material is the wood? Looks like the sheves are chip board. Are they simply painted? Where did you get the material...HD, Lowes, etc.? Thanks,


Dale


----------



## JukeBox360

Wow. I hate all if you. Hahahaha. JK. JK.


Seriously. You guys have some amazing set ups. Based on the pics I've seen. I can ask what I need to here. Which is. How do you line up the wires? Make em all clean and not messy? There a specific order in a way to start? Example. Line up as you go. Or plug everything in and line up after kinda deal?


I'd really like to take some pics of my set up. But I really need some tips to organizing wires like some of these pics.


Thanks guys!


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvmiller* /forum/post/21325093
> 
> 
> Nice work sebberry! I am thinking of using the same shelf clip system. What type of material is the wood? Looks like the sheves are chip board. Are they simply painted? Where did you get the material...HD, Lowes, etc.? Thanks,
> 
> 
> Dale



Thanks!


The wood is standard black melamine particle board, probably picked up at Home Depot. My carpenter made it when the kitchen went in.


The shelf clips are pretty sturdy. I did add some double sided tape to the top of the clips to stop the shelf from sliding about.


The shelf supports that run up and down the cabinet are recessed into the wood. You'll need a dado blade on your table saw to cut the channel into the wood. They're screwed through the wood and into the studs on either side of the front of the cabinet.


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/21325168
> 
> 
> Wow. I hate all if you. Hahahaha. JK. JK.
> 
> 
> Seriously. You guys have some amazing set ups. Based on the pics I've seen. I can ask what I need to here. Which is. How do you line up the wires? Make em all clean and not messy? There a specific order in a way to start? Example. Line up as you go. Or plug everything in and line up after kinda deal?
> 
> 
> I'd really like to take some pics of my set up. But I really need some tips to organizing wires like some of these pics.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!



The wires that you can cut to custom length are the easiest. Speaker wire, ethernet wire, coax, etc.. are all easy to make the proper length if you have the right tools.


Because you can't make HDMI cables to length, it's best to have a selection of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 foot cables around so you can pick the closest length.


----------



## Van G

Going to be building my own rack in closet and had a couple of questions:


The space is a double opening under a stair and only a third of the space will be used for equip and wiring (5' h x 28" w x 44" d is the volume for av). I want to build the rack so it fits the door frame (28" w) and then trim it and have opposing swing doors on each opening. I plan to build the rack with partial open sides and air space above each piece. The door on the av side will have a mesh or glass panel for IR signal.


Will 3/4" mdf be strong enough for the shelves without sag or should I use 3/4" ply? I plan to route channels and then simply glue joints.


Given the total volume of the space, and openness of the rack, do you think I will need to include fans for venting?


If I use dark glass on the door panel, will I have any issue with IR signals getting to appropriate piece?


----------



## Seadaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Van G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Going to be building my own rack in closet and had a couple of questions:
> 
> 
> The space is a double opening under a stair and only a third of the space will be used for equip and wiring (5' h x 28" w x 44" d is the volume for av). I want to build the rack so it fits the door frame (28" w) and then trim it and have opposing swing doors on each opening. I plan to build the rack with partial open sides and air space above each piece. The door on the av side will have a mesh or glass panel for IR signal.
> 
> 
> Will 3/4" mdf be strong enough for the shelves without sag or should I use 3/4" ply? I plan to route channels and then simply glue joints.
> 
> 
> Given the total volume of the space, and openness of the rack, do you think I will need to include fans for venting?
> 
> 
> If I use dark glass on the door panel, will I have any issue with IR signals getting to appropriate piece?



I used mdf for my shelving and i have an 80 pound receiver and all is good


----------



## mystic_sniper28

looking good keep'em coming


----------



## zergman

I searched around, but didn't come across the answer I was looking for so I'm posting here. I've seen reference to people using fans and having cooling for their Component Rack and I wasn't sure how important this was. In the past I have had just a regular tv stand with my dvd player and xbox behind the glass. Since I'm doing my first HT setup I wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage my components. I was going to buy http://www.rcwilley.com/Furniture/Li...Stand-View.jsp because I have very limit space and this would fit in the area I have. The components I would have are a blu-ray player, cable DVR, xbox 360 and my surround sound receiver. Does any know if I'll be ok just placing them in this stand or do I need to find some other option. I saw lots of stands that were open to the air, but I had thought something like this would be better at keeping the dust off. Any help would be great. Thanks


----------



## Van G

Have any DIY builders used 'posts' as opposed to solid sides for air circulation? On a 24" deep cabinet, I would have 4" posts (front and back) and then another 4" in the middle. Looking at the side you would see 3 vertical supports with 6" gap between them.


Also plan to put a 2" corner on the back for mounting cable organizer (laces?).


----------



## mystic_sniper28

look at the longest item you plan to house in your rack then add 500-750 mm for ventilation and wire management with the addition of couter weights.


van that cab looks nice though I would suggest mid atlantic rack..


that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet..



how many items require a network connection...


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zergman* /forum/post/21386785
> 
> 
> I searched around, but didn't come across the answer I was looking for so I'm posting here. I've seen reference to people using fans and having cooling for their Component Rack and I wasn't sure how important this was. In the past I have had just a regular tv stand with my dvd player and xbox behind the glass. Since I'm doing my first HT setup I wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage my components. I was going to buy http://www.rcwilley.com/Furniture/Li...Stand-View.jsp because I have very limit space and this would fit in the area I have. The components I would have are a blu-ray player, cable DVR, xbox 360 and my surround sound receiver. Does any know if I'll be ok just placing them in this stand or do I need to find some other option. I saw lots of stands that were open to the air, but I had thought something like this would be better at keeping the dust off. Any help would be great. Thanks



IMHO, you don't have to worry about heat as long as your AVR will have some breathing room above it. The cabinet isn't really sealed (open back and seams in the front) so you will get some air circulation through those spaces by the temp difference.


In terms of less dust, I don't think you'll see a big difference between open cabinet and that one. I would be more concerned that you can access to clean out the dust. As long as you can get a hand in there you'll be good.


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21388251
> 
> 
> look at the longest item you plan to house in your rack then add 500-750 mm for ventilation and wire management with the addition of couter weights.
> 
> 
> van that cab looks nice though I would suggest mid atlantic rack..
> 
> 
> that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet..
> 
> 
> 
> how many items require a network connection...



I think this was directed at me...


Deepest item I have is Emo UPA-7 which is 24 1/2" deep. I was going to put this on top or the bottom and keep the cabinet at 24"


I wold like to stay away from mid atlantic and the $700 expense and build something custom (perfect fit) with the MDF and Ply I already have. Probably 4 hrs work to put this together and paint.


"that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet.."

- don't quite understand that point?


Only 4 Cat6 connections on the rack, the rest will be on the wall behind it where I'm doing patch and networking equipment.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

mdf warps like crazy at that distance with heavy equipment like avr's, processors, power amps, players consoles, pvr's, htpc'sand so forth.


going with a mid atlantic rack atleas rack mount everything including network switch..


----------



## doublewing11

Looking for comments on Middle Atlantic AXS systems.......


Any takers?


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21389162
> 
> 
> mdf warps like crazy at that distance with heavy equipment like avr's, processors, power amps, players consoles, pvr's, htpc'sand so forth.
> 
> 
> going with a mid atlantic rack atleas rack mount everything including network switch..



3/4 MDF warps across a 20" span? What about 3/4 ply?


I could put one or two 1" braces across the span to beef it up.


Want to stay away from steel racks due to cost, plus I'll be building a couple pull out drawers into the rack.


----------



## Neurorad

If looking for Middle Atlantic rack, and you have the luxury of waiting, check craigslist and local eBay often. I live in a midsize city, and I see one about every month. Also, look for parts.


And, MA is one of many rack manufacturers. Many budget options available. MA is the BMW of racks. Look for ones made in the U.S.


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21389458
> 
> 
> If looking for Middle Atlantic rack, and you have the luxury of waiting, check craigslist and local eBay often. I live in a midsize city, and I see one about every month. Also, look for parts.
> 
> 
> And, MA is one of many rack manufacturers.



I'm a professional CL hunter but a build fits this project better given the dimensions and need for drawers.


I'll be surprised if MDF or ply sags over such a short distance, particularly since the weight points are close the edge.


Perhaps it's time I started a build thread


----------



## zergman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Van G* /forum/post/21388706
> 
> 
> IMHO, you don't have to worry about heat as long as your AVR will have some breathing room above it. The cabinet isn't really sealed (open back and seams in the front) so you will get some air circulation through those spaces by the temp difference.
> 
> 
> In terms of less dust, I don't think you'll see a big difference between open cabinet and that one. I would be more concerned that you can access to clean out the dust. As long as you can get a hand in there you'll be good.



Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zergman* /forum/post/21389636
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?



Yes: Audio Video Receiver


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zergman* /forum/post/21389636
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?



Audio Video Receiver.




As for sag - Are there different qualities of MDF? I have one MDF shelf in the bedroom and it does sag in the middle. But then again the supports are 4' apart.


My AV shelves are black melamine particle board and have zero sag from what I can tell. They're supported in all 4 corners.


----------



## GPowers

I have several beige APC Netshelters, some with sides and some without, just sitting in our computer room. We recently moved all our computer to a managed hosting service. PM me if your interested.


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Van G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Deepest item I have is Emo UPA-7 which is 24 1/2" deep. I was going to put this on top or the bottom and keep the cabinet at 24"



you are definitely going to have an airflow problem. Your UPA-7 is still in the box!!










Actual "unboxed" dimensions are less than 20" but be sure to take RCAs and bananas into account.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

for venting and wiring I would recommend a rack atleast 10-20" bigger to allow for airflow and cable management..


though it's up to you what you finally decide to do..


----------



## manthatsnice




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> for venting and wiring I would recommend a rack atleast 10-20" bigger to allow for airflow and cable management..
> 
> 
> though it's up to you what you finally decide to do..



So... no ply or mdf? Also need to allow for 10-20" or is it 20-25" as you recommended before? Want to make sure I get this right...


----------



## mystic_sniper28

if using a shelving unit with some type of wood shelf i would say 20-25" gap..


if using a rack allow 10-20" behind the deepest unit you plan to house in the rack..


using the rack method you only require 2-3 shelves for consoles and pay tv stu (assuming it isn't rackable) the remaining geat will be screwed into the rack..


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> you are definitely going to have an airflow problem. Your UPA-7 is still in the box!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actual "unboxed" dimensions are less than 20" but be sure to take RCAs and bananas into account.



I thought it sounded better in the box!


You got me there, I pulled the wrong numbers off the Emo site.


The good new is I can build a 20" deep rack again!


----------



## mystic_sniper28

for the sake of argument there Van, 20" with plugs in the back, working back from that 10-20" a. air flow, b. cable management.


I still think racking stuff is going to be the better solution than having gear sit on a shelving unit you buy..


----------



## Van G

Mystic, not sure if you have confused me but I'm building a custom rack in a closet space under a staircase. About 36" behind a 20" deep rack. The rack area represents 30% of the closet volume.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

ok great


----------



## MikeRich

I just scored an old Stantron SF2007830 off of CL for $50 and I'd like to use it to rack my AV stuff.


Can I use Middle Atlantic parts (metal shelves, custom faces, spacers, etc) or is MA proprietary?


Thanks,


----------



## rs691919

Just a question that had never occurred to me...if your rack is outside of the theater room, is it still possible to play on the Xbox?


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rs691919* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a question that had never occurred to me...if your rack is outside of the theater room, is it still possible to play on the Xbox?



Depends how far for connections like Kinect but just playing with std wireless controllers should be fine (Bluetooth like PS3?). If you are into gaming then you'll want the new interfaces coming down the line so maybe just run HDMI and Cat6 in the room by the TV and have the Xbox in the room.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

as long as you got a reflective line of sight you should have no issue with either ps3 and 360, the only pet hate about both consoles no rear usb connections for cable routing..


----------



## rs691919




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Van G* /forum/post/21438454
> 
> 
> Depends how far for connections like Kinect but just playing with std wireless controllers should be fine (Bluetooth like PS3?). If you are into gaming then you'll want the new interfaces coming down the line so maybe just run HDMI and Cat6 in the room by the TV and have the Xbox in the room.



Thanks! I just have the standard wireless Xbox360 controllers. I'm not big into gaming...I just play Lego Star Wars and Harry Potter with my son! What new interfaces are coming down the line?


----------



## Van G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rs691919* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I just have the standard wireless Xbox360 controllers. I'm not big into gaming...I just play Lego Star Wars and Harry Potter with my son! What new interfaces are coming down the line?



They'll continue to build Kinect and voice control for managing media including TV programming. Going to be an interesting year for TV!


----------



## Vic C

Hers mine while the room is under construction. Ill post again front and back when its loaded and I do my wire lacing and make it all as pretty from the back as it will be from the front....thats the best part isnt it?


----------



## ten8yp

for any of you guys out there reading this thread and still looking to get a rack (like me) I figured I would link this for you since I'm not really in driving range...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Middle-Atlan...#ht_500wt_1361


----------



## Mongao

Hi all,


I am in Montreal, I have three Emotiva amps weighting 40 Kg each, plus the receiver, the blu-ray player, the turntable, etc.


I am willing to buy a real sturdy high rack capable of accomodating everything, does anyone have a good tip in the Montreal area ?


Thanks,


Mongao


----------



## mystic_sniper28

midatlantic is likely your best choice


----------



## DrCee

I attempted many media boxes, special wall plates, various keystone solutions, etc to manage all the cabling for our new PN64D8000 in my non-dedicated HT. Nothing would do the trick. Staring at the wall one night, sipping on a glass of wine, it occurred to me that what was really needed was a patch panel behind the TV. See the attached pdf slide show for my story, problem and solution to the wiring mess.


I did consider installing a simple box in the wall for aesthetics, but I was already pushing the limit by wedging a 3.5" patch panel into a 3.25" wall space.


The ideal solution, if anyone actually made such a thing, is to have a metal box that fits between 16" on-center studs, has a vertical opening of 8"-10" and has a removable keystone patch panel at the top equivalent to the version I used in my posted solution. Of course it would need to be no more than about $30. It seems that would be the killer solution for many situations.


Also posted are a few pics from "rack" end of the cabling. The rack space is really just a wall cabinet over a desk area to the left of the panel. This is still a work in progress.

 

Hanging the Tube v2 low.pdf 494.4150390625k . file


----------



## sebberry

Thanks for that, DrCee.


Can you please give us more info on what speaker connections you've used there? They look a little more user friendly than the banana type connections for hardwiring at the back.


----------



## DrCee

sebberry:

Keystone screw-down speaker termination:

Brand: On-Q / LEGRAND

Part Numbers: WP3456-WH

Got them at amazon.

They are pretty nice and allow two wire termination per keystone position, once you realize that they a) don't fit in the keystone wall plates upside down (doh!) and once you realize the screw clamps need to be unscrewed before inserting the speaker wire.


Also, I tin my 12 gauge HT speaker wires before terminating into the keystone thingys. Once tinned, the 12 gauge wire is a snug fit. Un-tinned, the 10 gauge fits ok, but nothing bigger.


----------



## pokekevin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrCee* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I attempted many media boxes, special wall plates, various keystone solutions, etc to manage all the cabling for our new PN64D8000 in my non-dedicated HT. Nothing would do the trick. Staring at the wall one night, sipping on a glass of wine, it occurred to me that what was really needed was a patch panel behind the TV. See the attached pdf slide show for my story, problem and solution to the wiring mess.
> 
> 
> I did consider installing a simple box in the wall for aesthetics, but I was already pushing the limit by wedging a 3.5" patch panel into a 3.25" wall space.
> 
> 
> The ideal solution, if anyone actually made such a thing, is to have a metal box that fits between 16" on-center studs, has a vertical opening of 8"-10" and has a removable keystone patch panel at the top equivalent to the version I used in my posted solution. Of course it would need to be no more than about $30. It seems that would be the killer solution for many situations.
> 
> 
> Also posted are a few pics from "rack" end of the cabling. The rack space is really just a wall cabinet over a desk area to the left of the panel. This is still a work in progress.



Wow that's a lot of cabling haha very impressed


----------



## Pain Infliction

This is my rack that I just finished. its not perfect because I made some of the parts and used Middle Atlantic parts also. Right now the rack sits in my master bedroom. I want to put it in the wall but I am renting this house and I will do that as soon as I buy a house. Credit goes out to this forum for information. Please comment good or bad. Thanks.








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## aharami

anyone here build their own Middle Atlantic type trim panels/surrounds? If so, can you please share your DIY? I want to go for that black brushed alum look, but dont know how to do it


----------



## Pain Infliction

All I did was use flat black paint.


----------



## damienbuckley

Wondering what you guys use for power distribution? Straight forward power block with surge protection, powerstation or a UPS?


----------



## Pain Infliction

You can use any of those. I used the Panamax power conditioner.


----------



## Iusteve

^ I just ordered an APC H15 for my MA rack to power.


----------



## MoNkLorD

Wow just finished looking at all the racks from page one to know...congrats to all of you, very inspiring....my head is floating with all sorts of ideas now!


----------



## damienbuckley

Thanks. I'll see is the H15 or Panamax are available in Australia


----------



## blobula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/21619396
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'll see is the H15 or Panamax are available in Australia



Could someone point me in the direction of directions/information online that explains how to build an AV rack from MDF which is sturdy and strong enough to support heavy AV components?


The in wall shelf I'm trying to build will be 48" H X 20.5" W X 16" D


I know you can buy mdf sheets around that size, and you can also buy pre-made standing shelves that have pre drilled holes for shelves. My concern is that its not strong enough.


This is the area I'm dealing with. Front:










Back:


----------



## markrubin

my HT racks: always a work in progress


my HT/ office is built over a 3 car garage with vaulted ceiling: knee wall closets at each side make for good equipment space and racking: shown doors removed


first 3 pics are HT audio & video: the other knee wall is whole house distribution both M/A Slim 5 rack


To the left is a Sharp Elite 60 LCD and Focal BE 5.1 speakers/Rythmik F15


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Mark, its nice to see the back end of a rack that matches how mine wind up looking.


Respect.


----------



## markrubin

this is whole house equipment closet, doors removed


Elan S86 16 zone whole house system controlled by RTI 2 way Touchpads and keypads


----------



## kevin g.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blobula* /forum/post/21621700
> 
> 
> Could someone point me in the direction of directions/information online that explains how to build an AV rack from MDF which is sturdy and strong enough to support heavy AV components?
> 
> 
> The in wall shelf I'm trying to build will be 48" H X 20.5" W X 16" D
> 
> 
> I know you can buy mdf sheets around that size, and you can also buy pre-made standing shelves that have pre drilled holes for shelves. My concern is that its not strong enough.
> 
> 
> This is the area I'm dealing with. Front:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back:


 Here is what I did...don't worry about the strength...The "Handy Panels" are just fine...


----------



## pokerrx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21622037
> 
> 
> my HT racks: always a work in progress
> 
> 
> my HT/ office is built over a 3 car garage with vaulted ceiling: knee wall closets at each side make for good equipment space and racking: shown doors removed...



Nice setup. What are the dimensions of your room? We just built a house with an unfinished bonus room above our 2 car garage that is 25x23 with 4' knee walls and the collar ties at 10'2". I'll start a build thread once I get going...probably not for another year or so.


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pokerrx* /forum/post/21625473
> 
> 
> Nice setup. What are the dimensions of your room? We just built a house with an unfinished bonus room above our 2 car garage that is 25x23 with 4' knee walls and the collar ties at 10'2". I'll start a build thread once I get going...probably not for another year or so.



mine is roughly that size


nice over the garage where the cable, telephone, and power are fed: cable raceways to knee walls right above make wiring easy


my only regret is not running enough CAT5 & coax to the whole house: I added fiber optic runs for HD to several nearby rooms (house was built in 1999)


----------



## ktm250rider

no pictures but this is what im planning. It will be a custom built cabinet to fit in the corner of the outside wall of my theater. At some point, there will be cabinets across the room for DVDs and one cabinet will be a hidden door.

Im looking to use an MA SRSR-4-30. I just figured today that I have just enough room to fit the cabinet between the door and wall and provide the 6 inch clearance for rotation.

Components will be

Emotiva XPA5 (or similar)

Monster Power HTS5100

HTD audio distribution

OPPO Bluray

NAD T777


Each component will have its own shelf with a vent spacer between. Top of the rack will hold a thermometer and fan (UQFP-2).

THere will be 2 drawers at the base of the cabinet for manuals and spare remotes.


----------



## Seadaddy


View attachment 236901


----------



## Seadaddy

 Attachment 236903 


Sorry didn't show for some rason


----------



## Tedd

Blobula, the "Larry Fine" style av rack might be of interest.


Here's Drew V's rendition:


----------



## toofast68




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/21631693
> 
> 
> Blobula, the "Larry Fine" style av rack might be of interest.
> 
> 
> Here's Drew V's rendition:



So that is what I did and MAN it is really a great looking (from the front) low cost option.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

tedd looking at your option looks great, I would check the load capacity of the the shelving hooks includinf the weight of the shelf and what you plan to stick on the shelves..


----------



## Tedd

Those shelf systems do vary in weight capacity. If you have heavy components, I'd also suggest doubling up the studs in the wall. There's also no reason you couldn't run a pair of vertical studs in the closet, to attach rear supports, for heavy amps.


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21622037
> 
> 
> my HT racks: always a work in progress
> 
> 
> my HT/ office is built over a 3 car garage with vaulted ceiling: knee wall closets at each side make for good equipment space and racking: shown doors removed
> 
> 
> first 3 pics are HT audio & video: the other knee wall is whole house distribution both M/A Slim 5 rack
> 
> 
> To the left is a Sharp Elite 60 LCD and Focal BE 5.1 speakers/Rythmik F15



Did you use the 20" (depth) Slim 5?


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21660982
> 
> 
> Did you use the 20" (depth) Slim 5?



yes


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this is whole house equipment closet, doors removed
> 
> 
> Elan S86 16 zone whole house system controlled by RTI 2 way Touchpads and keypads



Two racks? Fully sick! Nice job dude


----------



## trek737




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21622121
> 
> 
> this is whole house equipment closet, doors removed
> 
> 
> Elan S86 16 zone whole house system controlled by RTI 2 way Touchpads and keypads




Mark, That is one great looking room you have there! I really like the clean, no wire showing, uncluttered look. The acoustic treatments blend right into the walls. The tv is framed by the drapes which gives it almost a window look.

*Very Nice Indeed!*










Jim


----------



## scl23enn4m3

How does everyone manage their networking in a rack? Wireless equipment, phone and internet modems are so oddly shaped.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/21694591
> 
> 
> How does everyone manage their networking in a rack? Wireless equipment, phone and internet modems are so oddly shaped.



A rack shelf?


----------



## dsiroky

I split my rack in two.


Originally I was going to do one, but realized that the mess of patch panels and the hai omnipro and hifi2 would just be too difficult to make neat, so I put the patch panels, hifi2 and omnipro pro in one rack, adjacent to the theater room.


Then I put the video matrix switch, source equipment, surround processor, 8 amplifiers and av receiver into the theater room rack.


Limiting the theater rack to video distribution made things a lot neater.


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *A9X-308* /forum/post/21695131
> 
> 
> A rack shelf?



Rack shelves are what are holding most of my equipment right now. But for example, the Vonage modem is trapezoidal rectangular prism cluster-**** of a shape with a display on top that couldn't be seen from the outside. A shelf would look odd for it when the rest of the equipment have matching face plates.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsiroky* /forum/post/21695575
> 
> 
> I split my rack in two.
> 
> 
> Originally I was going to do one, but realized that the mess of patch panels and the hai omnipro and hifi2 would just be too difficult to make neat, so I put the patch panels, hifi2 and omnipro pro in one rack, adjacent to the theater room.
> 
> 
> Then I put the video matrix switch, source equipment, surround processor, 8 amplifiers and av receiver into the theater room rack.
> 
> 
> Limiting the theater rack to video distribution made things a lot neater.



Thanks for the suggestion. This seems to be most ideal option for the sake of sanity. I can hide a smaller rack behind the current rack and not worry about aesthetics. Where is your cable modem and wireless equipment located though? I'd like to keep them near the patch panel but I think the steel and/or my RF remote is interfering with it.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/21696722
> 
> 
> But for example, the Vonage modem is trapezoidal rectangular prism cluster-**** of a shape with a display on top that couldn't be seen from the outside. A shelf would look odd for it when the rest of the equipment have matching face plates.



Well it seems you have two choices: sell the gear and buy something rack mounted or at least closer aesthetically to what you have, or live with it.


----------



## Neurorad

I put my wireless router in a plastic enclosure, near the rack. WAPs are the ideal solution, locating it/them in the ideal location(s). I will do this next time I upgrade my router.


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21661149
> 
> 
> yes



Thank you.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

i would be inclined to start looking at proper networking solutions other than just using the cheapest route of deployment possible..


anything that has a network connection i'd start looking at a 16-24 port switch solution atleast this room to move and expand to much crap can interfere with wifi.. lan is a better option when looking at streaming content..


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21699624
> 
> 
> I put my wireless router in a plastic enclosure, near the rack. WAPs are the ideal solution, locating it/them in the ideal location(s). I will do this next time I upgrade my router.



The rack isn't affecting your signal? I have a few WAPs around the house. Instead of adding one in the basement I thought it'd be easier to keep a wireless router down there that doubles as the firewall in the rack location. I guess I'm going to just find a location for a WAP then...hopefully I won't have to fish any wires.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21700538
> 
> 
> i would be inclined to start looking at proper networking solutions other than just using the cheapest route of deployment possible..
> 
> 
> anything that has a network connection i'd start looking at a 16-24 port switch solution atleast this room to move and expand to much crap can interfere with wifi.. lan is a better option when looking at streaming content..



I completely agree. Anything with a network port that doesn't move is connected via Gigabit. It's the laptops, tablets, and phones that are having issues. I currently have the wireless router going to a 16 port Gigabit switch that feeds the main floor and basement.

I think this is my excuse to finally upgrade to simultaneous dual band and some DD-WRT.


Thanks for the suggestions everyone.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

wireless is bascally useless unless you have an open door..


wifi signal doesn't always go through walls, open plans tend to die out once you intro a microwave into the mix as that fubars wifi in general ...


if I was to setup net working within a split level home today, i would go the route of fiber for network links..


a well planned network is a better option than a cobbled together build as you go...


if looking at mobiles or something like a hpmini I would tend to avoid using them as a control device for the simple fact most wifi utilisation within these mediums tend to have a pisspoor reception option to be of little practical use...


under 100 meters with line of sight on external anteenas, 50-75 meters on internal antennas with line of sight this is from wifi routers pov...


unless you got your mobile tethered to a power point reception will be limited, don't matter whether you use 802.11g or 802.11n as you wifi connection... given my experience with a docomo, htc desire, samsung mobiles and 2x toshiba, 1x hp mini and hp db4/6 b special edition laptops, a ps3 and 360 connected wirelessly...


wireless is great within a same room context once you start looking outside that room you will find very limited on the access you actually have, signal may be detected though actual thoughput of that signal can be less than desired when it comes to stability of the actual signal.. wireless is great though it does have alot of pitfalls..


given my several years on wifi tech looking at the future wireless doe have a place just as long as you don't have any interference values within the home, what is claimed on a box on distance support may not be the case and don't always expect a wifi signal to punch through a wall or many walls..


----------



## Neurorad

Back on the rack topic - seems to be a dirth of used, relatively shallow, MA racks in the SE and Midwest, the last couple months. I see a couple larger, deeper racks near Cincinnati, but that's a little far for me.


May have to buy the Sliim5, and add sides later.


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21714640
> 
> 
> Back on the rack topic - seems to be a dirth of used, relatively shallow, MA racks in the SE and Midwest, the last couple months. I see a couple larger, deeper racks near Cincinnati, but that's a little far for me.
> 
> 
> May have to buy the Sliim5, and add sides later.



please be sure you get the newer, ventilated version of this rack


when I built my HT in 1999 MA made no effort to address rack ventilation and heat buildup issues


I recall installing a Lexicon LX7 amp in a MA custom RSH rackmount and the Lex fans ran at such high speed that it was unacceptable: I complained here on AVS and to MA about their lack of attention to rack cooling/ ventilation and eventually they redesigned the entire RSH and SLIM 5 product line address ventilation issues. the new Slim 5's are much better in that regard: they added ventilation holes and addressed the issue


I had to punch holes in the top of both my racks to allow for proper ventilation: not easy for heavy steel plate


----------



## ack_bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21714984
> 
> 
> please be sure you get the newer, ventilated version of this rack
> 
> 
> when I built my HT in 1999 MA made no effort to address rack ventilation and heat buildup issues
> 
> 
> I recall installing a Lexicon LX7 amp in a MA custom RSH rackmount and the Lex fans ran at such high speed that it was unacceptable: I complained here on AVS and to MA about their lack of attention to rack cooling/ ventilation and eventually they redesigned the entire RSH and SLIM 5 product line address ventilation issues. the new Slim 5's are much better in that regard: they added ventilation holes and addressed the issue
> 
> 
> I had to punch holes in the top of both my racks to allow for proper ventilation: not easy for heavy steel plate



Was it uphill in the snow both ways as well?


Sorry, could not resist.


----------



## radchad3

Hi everyone! I stumbled onto this thread recently and your racks have inspired me to get mine going! I have a few quick questions before ordering, but first my setup:


-PS3

-Cisco cable box

-Sherwood R-972 receiver

-Crown 2 ch amp


What I would like to buy:


Slim 5 (5-29)

HBL or BL blank face plates

Custom Racks x 3 (RSH)

Drawer (D-3)


- These are all compatible with the Slim 5, correct?

- I am unsure as what blanks to get? The HBL is the flat blank while the BL is flanged, any thoughts??

- MA doesn't make the Sherwood custom rack, can I get it custom made?

- Is the 20" deep model the right one for the average HT enthusiast?


Thank you all for the thoughts and will be sure to post pics when done!


----------



## BllDo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21717250
> 
> 
> Hi everyone! I stumbled onto this thread recently and your racks have inspired me to get mine going! I have a few quick questions before ordering, but first my setup:
> 
> 
> -PS3
> 
> -Cisco cable box
> 
> -Sherwood R-972 receiver
> 
> -Crown 2 ch amp
> 
> 
> What I would like to buy:
> 
> 
> Slim 5 (5-29)
> 
> HBL or BL blank face plates
> 
> Custom Racks x 3 (RSH)
> 
> Drawer (D-3)
> 
> 
> - These are all compatible with the Slim 5, correct?
> 
> - I am unsure as what blanks to get? The HBL is the flat blank while the BL is flanged, any thoughts??
> 
> - MA doesn't make the Sherwood custom rack, can I get it custom made?
> 
> - Is the 20" deep model the right one for the average HT enthusiast?
> 
> 
> Thank you all for the thoughts and will be sure to post pics when done!



If MA doesn't have a component piece in it's database, you can send them your component, and they will custom make a rack shelf for you. You can also measure your component yourself and send them the dimensions, which is a lot cheaper.


For most people I believe the slim rack is sufficient and is the easiest to find a home for. I have a full depth rack tucked into an extra closet I have. It allows me to use the extra space in the back for nonstandard items like a sonos player, router and a couple switches.


----------



## Neurorad

RSH is a custom rack shelf, not a rack


measure the depths of your components


casters or wheelbase may be useful


do you want sides, front door (steel or plexiglass), or back?


if you have the luxury of building the rack slowly over months, I suggest buying the minimum first - just the rack, and casters if you need them


buy blank plates later


some of your equipment may not need a shelf - rack ears available for many components; your Crown amp may have rack ears, saving the $ on the shelf


----------



## mdpeterman

Here's my rack. I have cleaned up the wiring a bit since these pics were taken, but close enough.


----------



## Neurorad

Wow, that Panduit slotted wiring duct is a really nice feature.


What are the devices on the left, to the left of the enclosures?


----------



## mystic_sniper28

like your setup md


----------



## mdpeterman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21740741
> 
> 
> Wow, that Panduit slotted wiring duct is a really nice feature.
> 
> 
> What are the devices on the left, to the left of the enclosures?



If you were responding to my post, the panel to the left of the enclosures is a Honeywell structured wiring system. When the house was built, I had a bundled cable run to each wall where I wanted connectivity. Each bundle had 2 Cat 6 lines, 2 RG-6 Quad lines and 2 fiber lines. There are of course wall plates at each location with these connections and then the other end goes into that structured wiring panel making it super easy to change configuration.

So far the fiber hasn't been used, but the Cat 6 and RG-6 sure have been used a lot.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

MD, that's the way i like to see a network setup looking good there


----------



## Neurorad

Yes, md, thanks. Hadn't seen that Honeywell structured wiring platform before.


----------



## megathunderchief

Some pretty sick looking gear in this thread, trying to get my own system online and I'm looking for some opinions and advice.


I plan on going for one of the intermediate height freestanding racks (35-37U), my idea is to clamp-mount all my gear, force-cooled, all connections terminated in patch panels on rear rails. I'm looking to be able to transport my entire rack as one piece during my rather frequent moves.


It seems near impossible to find a B&M dealer anymore, does anyone have any observations on the new BGR line (BGR-38SA-27) or the older ERK-3525 model with the fixed sides? I'd love to just go look at them, but just can't find any place with models on display. Still trolling Craigslist, but in my area (DC/MD) it's hard to find anything MA, mostly old Dell and APC.


I've got the following components to mount:


Cablebox

Onkyo TX-NR5009

OPPO BDP-93/95 (haven't decided yet, 95 is more expensive, but accomodates a rackmount kit, and I may like to have the 2-channel upgrade)

Emotiva XPA-3

Emotiva XPA-5

Working on rackmount HTPC

Trolling for used APC UPS

XBOX


I should still have a little room left over for future components, and the size shouldn't dominate my room.


I'm getting custom rackshelves for the Onkyo, does anyone use just the rack ears for the Emotivas? I see that MA offers a custom shelf and plate for them both, is it even worth it or would it make more sense to just mount them? They're pretty heavy too, approx 75 lbs I think, and I only see front ears in the kit. Is this asking for trouble, or would an additional shelf support be and option?


Do the RSH custom shelves come in a front/rear mount configuration? It seems kind of risky to offer custom shelves for some pretty heavy items with no rear rail support.


----------



## Neurorad

I've never used an ERK, but I think the fixed sides would be too difficult to work with. But, if you find a good deal on a used ERK, then it might be a consideration.


If you have the luxury of waiting a few months, keep checking craigslist and ebay.


Search terms that I've been using: Middle Atlantic, Raxxess, 19 rack, AV rack, audio video rack, rackmount, Lowell, studio rack.


----------



## Neurorad

I see this MRK is in Falls Church, 2 racks available.










http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...863489686.html


----------



## Neurorad

I've been using SearchTempest to search multiple Craigslist sites.

http://www.searchtempest.com/results...min&maxAsk=max


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *megathunderchief* /forum/post/21755262
> 
> 
> Some pretty sick looking gear in this thread, trying to get my own system online and I'm looking for some opinions and advice.
> 
> 
> I plan on going for one of the intermediate height freestanding racks (35-37U), my idea is to clamp-mount all my gear, force-cooled, all connections terminated in patch panels on rear rails. I'm looking to be able to transport my entire rack as one piece during my rather frequent moves.
> 
> 
> It seems near impossible to find a B&M dealer anymore, does anyone have any observations on the new BGR line (BGR-38SA-27) or the older ERK-3525 model with the fixed sides? I'd love to just go look at them, but just can't find any place with models on display. Still trolling Craigslist, but in my area (DC/MD) it's hard to find anything MA, mostly old Dell and APC.
> 
> 
> I've got the following components to mount:
> 
> 
> Cablebox
> 
> Onkyo TX-NR5009
> 
> OPPO BDP-93/95 (haven't decided yet, 95 is more expensive, but accomodates a rackmount kit, and I may like to have the 2-channel upgrade)
> 
> Emotiva XPA-3
> 
> Emotiva XPA-5
> 
> Working on rackmount HTPC
> 
> Trolling for used APC UPS
> 
> XBOX
> 
> 
> I should still have a little room left over for future components, and the size shouldn't dominate my room.
> 
> 
> I'm getting custom rackshelves for the Onkyo, does anyone use just the rack ears for the Emotivas? I see that MA offers a custom shelf and plate for them both, is it even worth it or would it make more sense to just mount them? They're pretty heavy too, approx 75 lbs I think, and I only see front ears in the kit. Is this asking for trouble, or would an additional shelf support be and option?
> 
> 
> Do the RSH custom shelves come in a front/rear mount configuration? It seems kind of risky to offer custom shelves for some pretty heavy items with no rear rail support.



I'm in the NoVA area and gave up on CL after a couple of months. I found a good deal on a slim5 and went ahead for now. I wanted an MRK and will still keep my eyes open for one. The Slim5 is ok but definitely not what you want if you want to move it loaded with equipment. I have a VERY similar list of equipment and would recommend the RSH custom shelves over the Emotiva rack ears. The rack ears are cheaper, but the only way I found to mount an Emotiva XPA-5 (or my xpa-3 for that matter) was to lay the rack down on its back and drop it in. In can be done with another set of hands, but I rarely have any available. The shelves are much easier as you can just load them in from the back ... what I mean is that I have some rack ears I will sell you







They're GREAT!










I actually have an RSH custom shelf for an XPA-3/5 new in a box if you are interested in saving some $$. I don't have the energy to redo everything and go RSH now that its racked. I don't believe the clamping shelves mount to the back rails, so transporting a loaded rack doesn't seem wise....


I also gave up on trying to fit everything in my rack and just bought blanks. I just have my Emotiva's, Denon 4311, oppo 93 and power conditioner racked in my 43Us. I just finished a couple of days ago, so I will try to post a pic tonight.


----------



## megathunderchief




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/21756421
> 
> 
> I'm in the NoVA area and gave up on CL after a couple of months. I found a good deal on a slim5 and went ahead for now. I wanted an MRK and will still keep my eyes open for one. The Slim5 is ok but definitely not what you want if you want to move it loaded with equipment. I have a VERY similar list of equipment and would recommend the RSH custom shelves over the Emotiva rack ears. The rack ears are cheaper, but the only way I found to mount an Emotiva XPA-5 (or my xpa-3 for that matter) was to lay the rack down on its back and drop it in. In can be done with another set of hands, but I rarely have any available. The shelves are much easier as you can just load them in from the back ... what I mean is that I have some rack ears I will sell you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually have an RSH custom shelf for an XPA-3/5 new in a box if you are interested in saving some $$. I don't have the energy to redo everything and go RSH now that its racked. I don't believe the clamping shelves mount to the back rails, so transporting a loaded rack doesn't seem wise....
> 
> 
> I also gave up on trying to fit everything in my rack and just bought blanks. I just have my Emotiva's, Denon 4311, oppo 93 and power conditioner racked in my 43Us. I just finished a couple of days ago, so I will try to post a pic tonight.




Hey brother, thanks for your feedback! Lived in Alexandria for a couple of years when I was finishing school, had a great time in NoVA.


I'd certainly be interested in the shelf, I'm sure I'll be in your area at some point so I could just swing by and give you cash money, you may have to give me about a month and a half though- I'm far, far from home at the moment, but I'll take it off your hands. Love to see pictures of your setup too.


You mentioned another reason why I was curious about the rear rail mounts- transport. my goal would be to lock everything in tight enough to survive a move crated, but that may be unrealistic.


I don't know why, but my dumb a** was putting searches into Search Tempest confined to a single category. Did a "search all" a few hours ago and got many more results, although most would require a little road trip.


----------



## megathunderchief




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21756126
> 
> 
> I see this MRK is in Falls Church, 2 racks available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...863489686.html




hey buddy, thanks for the heads up- I just saw this today too. Looks to be a little too tall and deep for my use though, I'm in a townhouse and I'm already trying to fit an Aperion Verus Grand setup, a Seaton Submersive, and 65 inch Panny in, every square inch counts







If a 44U popped up in a 25-27 inch depth, I might just ignore the inevitable objection from the girlfriend and snap it up. 31 inches deep would cut into the floorspace too much


----------



## Neurorad

I have a similar problem, finding a rack without a huge footprint.


27" Deep WRK looks great, but might be slightly too large for me. I've seen a few of those the past couple months.


----------



## Neurorad

I just saw a print ad for the Lowell Vari-Rack. Adjustable depth.

http://www.lowellmfg.com/racks-varirack.html 


Knock-down, ships flat. Casters for any depth, skirted base for 2 depths available.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

I find the smallest footprint you can go may not always be prudent to use given you will be needing some form of cooling requirements within the cabinet having zippo space for cable management can lead too poor air flow.. if you live in an area that routinely sees 110+ in the shade heat is going to play a big part in your setup..


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/21756421
> 
> 
> I'm in the NoVA area and gave up on CL after a couple of months. I found a good deal on a slim5 and went ahead for now. I wanted an MRK and will still keep my eyes open for one. The Slim5 is ok but definitely not what you want if you want to move it loaded with equipment. I have a VERY similar list of equipment and would recommend the RSH custom shelves over the Emotiva rack ears. The rack ears are cheaper, but the only way I found to mount an Emotiva XPA-5 (or my xpa-3 for that matter) was to lay the rack down on its back and drop it in. In can be done with another set of hands, but I rarely have any available. The shelves are much easier as you can just load them in from the back ... what I mean is that I have some rack ears I will sell you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually have an RSH custom shelf for an XPA-3/5 new in a box if you are interested in saving some $$. I don't have the energy to redo everything and go RSH now that its racked. I don't believe the clamping shelves mount to the back rails, so transporting a loaded rack doesn't seem wise....
> 
> 
> I also gave up on trying to fit everything in my rack and just bought blanks. I just have my Emotiva's, Denon 4311, oppo 93 and power conditioner racked in my 43Us. I just finished a couple of days ago, so I will try to post a pic tonight.



So here is the picture I promised. Not a great shot. I have another zone, some DTV boxes and distribution equipment, but like I said .. I didn't know what was staying or going so I took the minimal approach and bought some blanks. 95% of the time, I just need my Oppo, 4311 and amps (XPA-5 and (2) UPA-2s). Everything is brushed anodized.


----------



## megathunderchief




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21761113
> 
> 
> I find the smallest footprint you can go may not always be prudent to use given you will be needing some form of cooling requirements within the cabinet having zippo space for cable management can lead too poor air flow.. if you live in an area that routinely sees 110+ in the shade heat is going to play a big part in your setup..




Yeah, I looked at the 20" deep ERK models for about 2 minutes before I realized my Onkyo is about 18.5" deep. Not much room left over and I want to be able to close the rear door and feed cables out through a grommeted knockout for tidiness.


I plan on mounting a quiet fan panel on a configurable rear door pulling air from a vented base and seeing how that handles the temperature. If it can't cut it, I may have to go with something that moves more CFM and deal with the added noise. The deepest pieces of gear I have are the Emotivas, but they're also the simplest to manage cable-wise. Ideally, I'd always like to have more room to work, but I think I can make do with a minimum 6" of clearance.


----------



## A9X-308

^^ Middle Atlantic have a paper on thermal management in racks available on their website. It is well worth reading.


----------



## megathunderchief




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *A9X-308* /forum/post/21762787
> 
> 
> ^^ Middle Atlantic have a paper on thermal management in racks available on their website. It is well worth reading.




Yup, already been through it a couple of times- I think it's going to be trial and error to get the temps where I want them. I'm planning on enclosing the entire rack with a rear, and a front smoked plexiglass door. Intake should come through the bottom vents and exhaust through the top of the rear door via a fan panel with a pair of ultra quiet fans. This is my beginner's attempt to get the heat to chimney up in the rear of the equipment rather than just floating up vertically and cooking everything on the way out. Not sure the two fans are going to create enough negative pressure to vent on their own though. I'd rather stay away from a fan top for aesthetic reasons, a solid top would give the girlfriend a nice surface to place something to make the rack look less intimidating in our living room










Anyone have any observations about my plans? I suppose it would be easier if I left the front door off and used front fan panels, but I'm trying to keep the light level down and refrain from putting all my gear on display.


----------



## Neurorad

You could consider the solid steel front door, and adding a panel to it to match your decor, like a paneled dishwasher or fridge. Wood grain sides also available.


You could build a closet around it, with a real door. Or, find a closet for it.


Mine is going into a basement mechanical room, so esthetics don't play much of a part in my decisions.


2 Fans at the top back will probably be fine, if only a single intake near the bottom and it's pretty well sealed.


----------



## cat-222ASR

Mine is in slow development when completed with a few more of the same Samson SRK21 racks which are cheap buy and racks give a neater look but I can't comment on the wiring at present its a bit like one of those, spaghetti westerns.


I plan to have one racks assigned as


Audio processors


AVR consumer and cinema processors electronic crossovers and outboard additional EQ


Amps


All the amps and the older ones will be replaced with Alesis RA300 or newer, but I'd like to keep the amps isolated away from the processors

Audio/Video players


All the Laserdisc players DVD and bluray players will be stacked in its own rack

Samson racks can be brought for around £99.00 delivered.


Looking back over the past year and bit.
















































Pictured start from the top Behringer MDX4600 audio compressor limiter for as and when I need it, it does help soften the loudness.


Below is Behringer FBQ2496 parametric EQ channel A is for sub bass extension and channel B for LFE.1 only.


Below is Behringer DCX249 electronic crossover management system for LCR fronts


Below is Behringer GEQ3102 used for outboard duel rear mono centre back surround and stereo surrounds on Dolby TrueHD 7.1


Below is Dolby Stereo CP45 cinema processor that was used as main processor thou it gets its feeds directly from Yamaha RX-V650.


Pictured below is Marantz 1050 for HF centre












umm, which cable goes where?







I'll deal with cable management later on.



















Pictured to the left Marantz 1050 for HF left and right fronts and additional EQ for mono overhead surround Technics EQ for sidewall surrounds and simple RTA use while the pc RTA is on the computer and the next RTA I'll be using will be on the Dolby CP500 when I finally set up for X-curve.






























Well I made a little effort to tidy up the cables with electrical tape as it was dangling all over the place. Still looks like a birds nest thou.



















Now were is the CAT-300/350 cards?








Dolby CP500 removed temporally until I get the new CAT cards for it. Other Dolby cinema processor CP55 that hasn't been racked up yet only tested to see if its working and it works fine and will be racked up in new Samson SRK21, umm, some time soon?





























The rack to left will soon be taken up with another Samson SRK21








Pictured is my sweet cat that oversees and gives final household approval.


Pictured at the top is Behringer DCX249 electronic crossover management system for LCR fronts


Pictured below is Behringer GEQ3102 for extra outboard duel centre mono surround or stereo rear back surrounds.


Pictured below is Dolby Stereo CP65 cinema processor for common 6track discrete on format 10 Dolbt Stereo digital, presently set on format 60 non-sync Dolby Pro-Logic.


Pictured below is Dolby Stereo CP45 cinema processor that now acts as Dolby Surround-EX with additional inputs up to 6channel discrete, the common surround-EX is selected on format 60 non-sync while format 61 AUX is 6channel input.


Below top Alesis RA300 for LF left and right front


Below middle Alesis RA300 left channel overhead mono surround / right channel centre LF


Below bottom Alesis RA300 bridged mono for LFE.1 sub only


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Lomax* /forum/post/10370563
> 
> 
> Woodgrain Xbox baby-



Hey Max


Love what you've done with your rack.


Where you get the custom faceplates?


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *megathunderchief* /forum/post/21764070
> 
> 
> Yup, already been through it a couple of times- I think it's going to be trial and error to get the temps where I want them. I'm planning on enclosing the entire rack with a rear, and a front smoked plexiglass door. Intake should come through the bottom vents and exhaust through the top of the rear door via a fan panel with a pair of ultra quiet fans. This is my beginner's attempt to get the heat to chimney up in the rear of the equipment rather than just floating up vertically and cooking everything on the way out. Not sure the two fans are going to create enough negative pressure to vent on their own though. I'd rather stay away from a fan top for aesthetic reasons, a solid top would give the girlfriend a nice surface to place something to make the rack look less intimidating in our living room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any observations about my plans? I suppose it would be easier if I left the front door off and used front fan panels, but I'm trying to keep the light level down and refrain from putting all my gear on display.



I put the ultra quite fans from coolerguys on my rack. I changed them out with faster fans becasue the ulta quiet fans were not strong enough. They would stay on for a long time too. The faster fans are louder but my rack stays a lot cooler. Sometimes with the ultra quiet fans my rack temp would be 95 to 100 degrees! I put in the faster fans and my temp never gets above 85. The coolerguys temp sensor kit has four inputs for fans so I put the ultra quite fans inside the rack pulling the heat away from the avr's. beleive it or not...the Emotiva amps do not get that hot. I figured they would, but not at all and that is why I put the extra fans near the avr.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21766607
> 
> 
> Hey Max
> 
> 
> Love what you've done with your rack.
> 
> 
> Where you get the custom faceplates?



Those are Middle Atlantic RSH custom rackshelves and face plates. I am answering for him because that is a really old post and not sure if he is on here still or not.


----------



## Pain Infliction

By the way guys.....if you get the middle atlantic slim5 rack, you might want to get the 26 inch deep model. that gives you room inside to wire up components and also some components are very deep. my sony bd mega changer is 22 inches deep so i had no choice. If I didnt have that and got the 20 inch deep model, I would have probably wished that I had bought the 26 inch deep model.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction* /forum/post/21766749
> 
> 
> Those are Middle Atlantic RSH custom rackshelves and face plates. I am answering for him because that is a really old post and not sure if he is on here still or not.



Thanks!


----------



## mark_anderson_u

Hi Guys


I have several components (sonos zone players, router, mac mini, etc. that are not rack mountable). I want to find a way to seure these so that when I push a button on the bottom, they don't slide on the shelf. Was going to try velcro discs on the sonos, but the feet seems to glue resistant. Nothing sticks to it. How do you guys secure this stuff?


Also have several devices with external power supplied (e.g. Mac Mini, router, etc.) I don't want these lying on shelf or dangling, What's the best solution for tidying these up?


Regards


Mark


----------



## markrubin

re Emotiva XPA-5


I found the best solution to rack mount this amp in a Slim 5 rack is to buy the rack mount ears from Emotiva:


the ears extend to the back of the rack and have a mounting hole that lines up with the rack channel: so it can be secured from the back as well (it is a heavy amp)


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21766847
> 
> 
> I have several components (sonos zone players, router, mac mini, etc. that are not rack mountable). I want to find a way to seure these so that when I push a button on the bottom, they don't slide on the shelf. Was going to try velcro discs on the sonos, but the feet seems to glue resistant. Nothing sticks to it. How do you guys secure this stuff?
> 
> 
> Also have several devices with external power supplied (e.g. Mac Mini, router, etc.) I don't want these lying on shelf or dangling, What's the best solution for tidying these up?



Mark, Middle Atlantic makes a short "utility" shelf (UTR1) that are made for this. They have a pattern of slots in the shelf that allow you to use Velcro straps to tie stuff down (of any size).











And with any of the vented shelves (or using the lacing bar slots on the back edge), you can use Velcro straps to tie down transformers, excess cable, and so forth...


If the component doesn't need to be accessed from the front (e.g. Ethernet switch), I use Velcro pads to stick them to underneath a non-vented portion of a shelf above. Then just cover the front space with a blank faceplate (if you're going the faceplate route).


Hope that helps,


Jeff


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21766943
> 
> 
> re Emotiva XPA-5
> 
> 
> I found the best solution to rack mount this amp in a Slim 5 rack is to buy the rack mount ears from Emotiva:
> 
> 
> the ears extend to the back of the rack and have a mounting hole that lines up with the rack channel: so it can be secured from the back as well (it is a heavy amp)



This is true but only on the 20 inch depth rack and not the 26 inch depth.


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction* /forum/post/21767113
> 
> 
> This is true but only on the 20 inch depth rack and not the 26 inch depth.



Thanks for the clarification: I have the 20 inch depth racks


----------



## Pain Infliction

I have the 26 inch depth and I still used the ear plates for the emotiva amp and it still holds it sturdy. I was concerned about how it was going to hold up but those plates are really thick in the front.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21766988
> 
> 
> Mark, Middle Atlantic makes a short "utility" shelf (UTR1) that are made for this. They have a pattern of slots in the shelf that allow you to use Velcro straps to tie stuff down (of any size).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with any of the vented shelves (or using the lacing bar slots on the back edge), you can use Velcro straps to tie down transformers, excess cable, and so forth...
> 
> 
> If the component doesn't need to be accessed from the front (e.g. Ethernet switch), I use Velcro pads to stick them to underneath a non-vented portion of a shelf above. Then just cover the front space with a blank faceplate (if you're going the faceplate route).
> 
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Thanks Jeff


----------



## BleedOrange

Thanks for sharing your pictures and some information to go along with it. I'm diving into this head first and am finishing my basement with a completion date of 5/4. My head is swimming with ideas and info. ah!


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the 26 inch depth and I still used the ear plates for the emotiva amp and it still holds it sturdy. I was concerned about how it was going to hold up but those plates are really thick in the front.



That thickness in the front brings me to my second complaint about the ears... They stick out from all the other gear. It's not bad but you couldn't use the MA trim strips with it ( the ones that cover the screws). They are sturdy, But I would go RSH if I had to do it over again.


----------



## Neurorad

I've searched on google and can't find pics of rack-mounted Emotiva amps with rack ears. You have a pic or a link?


----------



## Pain Infliction

 http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-v....php?t=1394657 


Scroll down to post 19

Also I took off the trim pieces so it would not stick out as far.


----------



## jautor

Just remembered that I should post this now that I've got a decent finished picture...











Middle Atlantic AXS-20, in a 32U height. MA RSH shelves and faceplates, MA power/light bar at top. If you're unfamiliar with the pull-out AX-S racks, here's a side-view with the rack extended on the service track and stand:











Jeff


----------



## Neurorad

Beautiful rack, Jeff. Perfection.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21770270
> 
> 
> Beautiful rack, Jeff. Perfection.



Thanks, and now you can't bug me about those trim strips!










I really am surprised at how much of a difference they made in the final look. I had them sitting here for 6 months, and when I went to actually install them, had no hardware. Dealer sent me the washer/cap/screw pack without issue, and I finally got around to putting them on.


Now if I would just spend some serious time on the iRule remote, I could really call this thing done-done...


Jeff


----------



## Neurorad

Jeff, is that an Emotiva rack-mounted amp, used with rack ears, and MA trim strips?


Or is it the MA Emotiva RSH?


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21770616
> 
> 
> Jeff, is that an Emotiva rack-mounted amp, used with rack ears, and MA trim strips? Or is it the MA Emotiva RSH?



Middle Atlantic RSH4A Emotiva UPA7. At 21" deep, it protrudes out the back of the 20" rack by an inch, which is why it's positioned above the drawer (to clear the cable management tray when closed). That sucker took 3 of us to get into place...










IIRC from reading the Emotiva forums, the amp isn't exactly an even "U" high, so it would leave a gap if you used the rack ears instead of the shelf. (someone correct me if I'm wrong about that)


And I got replacement black trim strips for the amp from Emotiva, as they come stock in silver. Obviously we can't have that, now, can we?










Jeff


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction* /forum/post/21768730
> 
> http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-v....php?t=1394657
> 
> 
> Scroll down to post 19
> 
> Also I took off the trim pieces so it would not stick out as far.



Had some trouble opening that link, but eventually got it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1394657 











I guess jautor's RSH solves the Emotiva trim strip problem, somehow?


Can the Emotiva rack ears be positioned behind the front rails, using longer screws and bolts?


----------



## jautor

The decorative Emotiva trim pieces didn't get in the way of the MA trim strip at all. But I see looking at their site that the rack ears are quite thick on the rail side. Compare that thickness with any other rack ear design. Not sure what they were thinking there.


And as the ears are already $50, you're halfway to a custom RSH anyway...


Jeff


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21770596
> 
> 
> Thanks, and now you can't bug me about those trim strips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really am surprised at how much of a difference they made in the final look. I had them sitting here for 6 months, and when I went to actually install them, had no hardware. Dealer sent me the washer/cap/screw pack without issue, and I finally got around to putting them on.
> 
> 
> Now if I would just spend some serious time on the iRule remote, I could really call this thing done-done...
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff,


Very nice looking rack. I also agree that the black Emotiva trim pieces look better with your setup.


How are the M/A trim strips attached and are they something that can be removed and re-attached with ease without distorting them?

I ask because in the 2 years I have had my rack, I have moved things around at least 4 times. I would like to add the trim strips, but am a little hesitant to do so if installing and removing them is going to "wear them out" before I get my configuration closer to a finalized state.


----------



## Pain Infliction

They are held on with two screws and can be removed many times without any problems. Just go slow so you dont scratch them is really the only issue.


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction* /forum/post/21772051
> 
> 
> They are held on with two screws and can be removed many times without any problems. Just go slow so you dont scratch them is really the only issue.



Good to hear.


Thanks!


----------



## jautor

Yeah, they "snap" on over washers you place on some of the screws. I will say those strips don't go on or come off "easy", as it's a rigid metal piece, not a flexible plastic/rubber strip. But they can certainly be removed, and yes, go slow so you don't damage it - bending it too far to create a ripple would mean getting a new one.










Jeff


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21772488
> 
> 
> Yeah, they "snap" on over washers you place on some of the screws. I will say those strips don't go on or come off "easy", as it's a rigid metal piece, not a flexible plastic/rubber strip. But they can certainly be removed, and yes, go slow so you don't damage it - bending it too far to create a ripple would mean getting a new one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff



Interesting. I had assumed that they were plastic or composite strips and not rigid aluminum pieces.

Thanks for the info guys.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Oops. I thought you were asking something else.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21761113
> 
> 
> I find the smallest footprint you can go may not always be prudent to use given you will be needing some form of cooling requirements within the cabinet having zippo space for cable management can lead too poor air flow.. if you live in an area that routinely sees 110+ in the shade heat is going to play a big part in your setup..





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *megathunderchief* /forum/post/21762777
> 
> 
> Yeah, I looked at the 20" deep ERK models for about 2 minutes before I realized my Onkyo is about 18.5" deep. Not much room left over and I want to be able to close the rear door and feed cables out through a grommeted knockout for tidiness.
> 
> 
> I plan on mounting a quiet fan panel on a configurable rear door pulling air from a vented base and seeing how that handles the temperature. If it can't cut it, I may have to go with something that moves more CFM and deal with the added noise. The deepest pieces of gear I have are the Emotivas, but they're also the simplest to manage cable-wise. Ideally, I'd always like to have more room to work, but I think I can make do with a minimum 6" of clearance.



I use a 20" deep ERK rack. Knowing the depth restriction, I just choose


----------



## Crabalocker

DAMN IT!!!!


Why did I open this thread! Those racks all look so killer! Now I want to spend...........AGAIN! I hate you AVS


----------



## BrittonYoder




----------



## mystic_sniper28

ccleanest rack i ever seen


----------



## Neurorad

Mmmmmmm, rack porn.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21776032
> 
> 
> Mmmmmmm, rack porn.



The back of my rack goes under the "Amateur" category, then...










Hey, some people are into that!


----------



## Neurorad

hehe


BrittonYoder, you need a heat gun.


----------



## BrittonYoder

I have one, I was just waiting until all the terminations are fully tested that way the heat shrink will end up with identical spacing.


----------



## tbraden32




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21776544
> 
> 
> The back of my rack goes under the "Amateur" category, then...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, some people are into that!



I love the pull out rack option and might need that solution, what kind of cost do you have involved in building that rack?


----------



## mystic_sniper28

depends on what weight you intend to install in the rack, 3 types 1.draw slide, 2. caster, 3. combo of drawslide and caster...


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbraden32* /forum/post/21778381
> 
> 
> I love the pull out rack option and might need that solution, what kind of cost do you have involved in building that rack?



Middle Atlantic has two styles of pull-out racks, the AX-S (which is the one I have), and the AX-SXR which pulls out and rotates.


Neither is cheap, but they are designed and built very well. You can look up the parts from various sellers. The cost is the same (there may be two 'tiers') for any rack U height. The killer is the service track and the service stand, both required components, which list for as much as the rack itself.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/axsm.htm 


With some good luck and careful shopping (and eBay scanning for bits and pieces), I spent ~$1500 on all the rack pieces you see in the picture(s). That includes the drawer, light bar/power strip, the shelves, custom faceplates, service track and stand, etc. "List price" on that stack is around $2500.










I'd suggest the 50" pull-out instead of the 25". Will make it much easier to work on if you have a lot of equipment in the rack. I don't mind it, and was concerned that I didn't have the depth to hold the longer cable tray and was afraid the 50" track would run into my bar table. It wouldn't have, but I couldn't walk in front of it, and have to go around the long way to get to the side of the rack when extended. Not what I would want to do...


The rotating version is something I would consider, too, if I was starting over.


Jeff


----------



## tbraden32

^Thanks Jeff.


----------



## ten8yp

Anyone running Kinect off of their XBox 360? I have about 25-30 ft range between where my rack is and where the Kinect should go (in front of or on top of the tv) so I'm wandering how any of you guys have done it if the cable that came with the Kinect isn't long enough which is my dilema... anyone?


----------



## kevin g.

 Monoprice is your friend...


----------



## scl23enn4m3

Yeah, grab a USB *2.0* active extension cable from them. You can actually find them cheaper on Amazon if you're a Prime member.


EDIT: If you bought the Kinect bundle (the one that comes with a console), you also need to grab a power adapter that allows you to plug the Kinect into the wall for power and a USB port. I got an off brand one on Amazon for 4 bucks.


----------



## ten8yp

I'm guessing the USB 2.0 is not a standard usb style because the kinect's cable is not standard from what I could tell. The connector on the end looked slightly different.


I DID buy the bundle but my kinect does not have a power supply... is that normal?


Thanks for the monoprice link... I'm gonna go with that.


----------



## kevin g.

Well, the bundle with the Slim did not come with the power supply. If you buy the Kinect separate, you get the power supply and the usb conversion cable (It's one cord...) You WILL need this if you are extending to your play area...
At Amazon... I would recommend a MS one for this...If it is like the Branded vs Aftermarket VGA cables...


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin g.* /forum/post/21784060
> 
> 
> Well, the bundle with the Slim did not come with the power supply. If you buy the Kinect separate, you get the power supply and the usb conversion cable (It's one cord...) You WILL need this if you are extending to your play area...
> At Amazon... I would recommend a MS one for this...If it is like the Branded vs Aftermarket VGA cables...



Ah... thats exactly what I thought. The Kinect does not use a standard USB cable which is why I asked. I'm still slightly confused however as that power adapter looks like a standard usb end and not the kinect cable end. How is that supposed to work?


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21784329
> 
> 
> Ah... thats exactly what I thought. The Kinect does not use a standard USB cable which is why I asked. I'm still slightly confused however as that power adapter looks like a standard usb end and not the kinect cable end. How is that supposed to work?


 http://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply-C...1901630&sr=8-5 


The adapter has a proprietary female Kinect port that splits into the AC adapter and a male USB 2.0 port. You plug the USB extension into the standard USB 2.0 port, and then plug the other end into your 360.


If you look closely, the orange female port isn't USB.


----------



## kevin g.

yeah, that's a much better picture of the "splitter"...


----------



## newHTowner

Hi Guys,


I have gotten so many great ideas looking at these racks. I'm trying to put together my rack and hope that you guys can give pointers specifically regarding component position and thermal management.


Briefly, I have an AXS slide out rack going into a recessed wall so not much space on the sides or back for ventilation. There will be a screen wall with GOM fabric for the door so some circulation in the front.


I have:


1. Amps - Emotiva XPA-3 and two Emotiva UPA-2

2. Pre amp - Marantz AV7005

3. Furman rack mount conditioner

4. Oppo BP-95

5. Xbox

6. Mac Mini


How should I organize these components? Use vented vs covered blank spacers? Do I need active thermal management with fans, etc...


Thanks!


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newHTowner* /forum/post/21787125
> 
> 
> I have an AXS slide out rack going into a recessed wall so not much space on the sides or back for ventilation. There will be a screen wall with GOM fabric for the door so some circulation in the front.
> 
> 
> How should I organize these components? Use vented vs covered blank spacers? Do I need active thermal management with fans, etc...



I have a similar setup (not as many Emotiva amps, though). I vent my AXS with an HVAC return fan assembly above the rack. Are you venting anywhere or are you going to to need to dump the warm air back into the room?


Read Middle Atlantic's Thermal Management white paper:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/pdf/ThermalManagement.pdf 


But basically, you want to get cool air in, warm air out. Place the amps at the bottom, with some space and likely some vent panels between them to allow cool air in. Assuming you need to vent warm air out the front, look at the MA solutions:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm 


Honestly, my similar gear stack runs cool - some low-speed fans to pull air out of the rack may be enough. Stack the rack correctly, and if you over-provision the fans, make sure you use variable speed solutions so you can dial it down (low noise) if you end up not needing a lot of active cooling.


Jeff


----------



## mark_anderson_u

There's a good article on our site about cooling a home theater:

http://hometoys.com/emagazine.php?ur...al01/index.htm


----------



## jongig

I used an in-line commercial bathroom fan with filtration and these fans are really neat because the better ones are not only dead quiet but they also include two stage fans. Mine runs at a low speed to move some air since a rack PC and multiple satelite DVR's are on all the time. When you turn on the theater amps the high speed turns on and runs at the higher speed while the amps are on. When the amps turn off the fan runs for 20 minutes at high speed and then moves to the lower speed. It sits inside the rack closet and brings filtered air into the closet through a in wall filter and then blows the air out the front of the rack. What is nice is that I have no dust in the rack closet since this always has positive filtered air pressure.


You can hear moving air when you put your head against the rack and you can feel the warm air moving out of the rack but you can not hear a fan motor. I experimented with fans in the begining and I could hear the inline fans that were built for this and I absolutely can not stand noise. This fan has run continuously since 2008 and all I do is change the filter every 6 months. I have a huge filtration system in the HVAC but this filter is still full of dust every 6 months.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21787646
> 
> 
> There's a good article on our site about cooling a home theater:
> 
> http://hometoys.com/emagazine.php?ur...al01/index.htm



Not really. It states the bleedin obvious and is just a covert advertisement.


----------



## jongig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *A9X-308* /forum/post/21787890
> 
> 
> Not really. It states the bleedin obvious and is just a covert advertisement.



I didn't read it but it mentions bathroom fans being loud, quite the opposite if you buy a good one. I remembered that it was not originally my idea to use a bathroom fan and when I went back to my posts I see that someone on this thread recomended a Panasonic bathroom fan and I think I used a Panasonic. Who knew they made bathroom fans.


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/21785865
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply-C...1901630&sr=8-5
> 
> 
> The adapter has a proprietary female Kinect port that splits into the AC adapter and a male USB 2.0 port. You plug the USB extension into the standard USB 2.0 port, and then plug the other end into your 360.
> 
> 
> If you look closely, the orange female port isn't USB.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin g.* /forum/post/21785868
> 
> 
> yeah, that's a much better picture of the "splitter"...



Gotcha... yep that pic is much better and makes the adapter make more sense.


Thanks for all the info guys. Now back to topic...


Since you guys are talking about bathroom fans... does anyone know if you can mount them vertically? I would love to be able to mount one lower on the back wall of the closet down near all of the components instead of in the ceiling. Then on the outside wall just put some kind of vent grill like a round type... maybe something similiar to a speaker grill. The bonus of that for me would be that it would be completely outside my actual HT room so the noise wouldn't be a factor at all.


----------



## Expat444




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Gotcha... yep that pic is much better and makes the adapter make more sense.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info guys. Now back to topic...
> 
> 
> Since you guys are talking about bathroom fans... does anyone know if you can mount them vertically? I would love to be able to mount one lower on the back wall of the closet down near all of the components instead of in the ceiling. Then on the outside wall just put some kind of vent grill like a round type... maybe something similiar to a speaker grill. The bonus of that for me would be that it would be completely outside my actual HT room so the noise wouldn't be a factor at all.



So when I mounted my servers in a closet I used a 4" duct fan plus thermostatically controlled dual PC 120mm fans to get sufficient airflow but I did need high throughput as the setup was a but unusual. The cold air input was at the top, the rack mount servers and RAID were installed vertically and the fans and ducting was at the bottom, a bit unusual but it did work.

My point is that you may well e able to get sufficient airflow from a quieter solution.


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expat444* /forum/post/21789409
> 
> 
> So when I mounted my servers in a closet I used a 4" duct fan plus thermostatically controlled dual PC 120mm fans to get sufficient airflow but I did need high throughput as the setup was a but unusual. The cold air input was at the top, the rack mount servers and RAID were installed vertically and the fans and ducting was at the bottom, a bit unusual but it did work.
> 
> My point is that you may well e able to get sufficient airflow from a quieter solution.



Sounds a bit confusing to me... I know absolutely zero about HVAC except how to adjust (and replace too actually) thermostats. I'm almost inclined to just rig some kind of cheap fan in the outside wall if it will get the job done. My basement stays pretty cool so I shouldn't have much of a problem.


----------



## BllDo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/21787826
> 
> 
> I used an in-line commercial bathroom fan with filtration and these fans are really neat because the better ones are not only dead quiet but they also include two stage fans. Mine runs at a low speed to move some air since a rack PC and multiple satelite DVR's are on all the time. When you turn on the theater amps the high speed turns on and runs at the higher speed while the amps are on. When the amps turn off the fan runs for 20 minutes at high speed and then moves to the lower speed. It sits inside the rack closet and brings filtered air into the closet through a in wall filter and then blows the air out the front of the rack. What is nice is that I have no dust in the rack closet since this always has positive filtered air pressure.
> 
> 
> You can hear moving air when you put your head against the rack and you can feel the warm air moving out of the rack but you can not hear a fan motor. I experimented with fans in the begining and I could hear the inline fans that were built for this and I absolutely can not stand noise. This fan has run continuously since 2008 and all I do is change the filter every 6 months. I have a huge filtration system in the HVAC but this filter is still full of dust every 6 months.



This sounds like a great solution, do you have make/model information?


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jongig* /forum/post/21787826
> 
> 
> What is nice is that I have no dust in the rack closet since this always has positive filtered air pressure.



Can you elaborate on this a bit? Sounds very intriguing. I'm real tired of having to clean my gear all the time. Does this need a sealed area for it to work?


----------



## Expat444

Here are a few photos, cold air comes in at the top and is sucked out the bottom and vented outside, the closet doors were pretty much airtight, hopefully that makes more sense.


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expat444* /forum/post/21796501
> 
> 
> Here are a few photos, cold air comes in at the top and is sucked out the bottom and vented outside, the closet doors were pretty much airtight, hopefully that makes more sense.



definitely makes sense but thats a LOT more complicated than I need and definitely want to get with my fan setup... for my purposes anyways. Nice setup either way!


----------



## Neurorad

Ten8yp, read the Middle Atlantic Thermal Management white paper that jautor has linked above.


You want your closet to be relatively airtight, with an inlet and an outlet, with air moving in one direction, preferably lower to higher. Some options come with a 'thermostat', to control the fan.


What do you mean by exterior wall? Some fan systems have attractive inlet/outlet options, that do look like a speaker grill, and some have filters.


And, check out the coolerguys.com site.


----------



## olyteddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expat444* /forum/post/21796501
> 
> 
> Here are a few photos, cold air comes in at the top and is sucked out the bottom and vented outside, the closet doors were pretty much airtight, hopefully that makes more sense.



That doesn't make sense to me. Why fight the natural convection? (Hot air rises, you know...)


----------



## Expat444




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *olyteddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That doesn't make sense to me. Why fight the natural convection? (Hot air rises, you know...)



Because the servers and RAID box were installed vertically so they were blowing all the hot air out at the bottom, it was easier just to install the ducting and fan there and suck out that hot air.

It was a tight fit for the equipment in that closet so I couldn't work out a better way to route the airflow as the server air intake is at the top/front.

It was a compromise but it worked well, especially given how hot that garage got, I was able to get an external cold air input an dump the hot air outside the house.


----------



## NJ Jackals

Some "almost" done rack pics.


Rack almost done. I need the Control4 C300 controller faceplate and the temp control faceplate installed.











On service rails.











Back of the rack.


----------



## NGiovas

NJ Jackals,


How tall is your rack? I assume that is a MA rack? Looks great.


----------



## NJ Jackals

Yes. Middle Atlantic AX-SXR. Brushed metal face plates. Max for the model I believe is 43 spaces. Mine is 41U.


----------



## NGiovas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NJ Jackals* /forum/post/21800859
> 
> 
> Yes. Middle Atlantic AX-SXR. Brushed metal face plates. Max for the model I believe is 43 spaces. Mine is 41U.



Thanks for the info. I think that is the rack I will end up ordering, but I just haven't decided the height yet.


Nick


----------



## ten8yp

Wow... droooooool. Very nice rack!


As much as I would LOVE to have the ease and instant great look of an MA rack like that, I'm still weighing out trying to build my own custom rack vs. buying one. I will have the advantage of not needing one that slides out like that... so that should save me a lot of money right?


Also, how much work is involved with putting an MA rack like that together and making it look right? Hours spent working on it approx?


----------



## Neurorad

You have to figure out what parts to buy first, and reading about the right way to wire everything. Cable management, IMO, is an art. Takes a lot of experience to make the back look good.


So, the amount of time it will take a beginner depends on how you want the back to look, I think, more than anything.


Great cable management requires making custom length cables, planning, and knowledge (which most people acquire with experience).


----------



## radchad3

Hello everyone! I received so much inspiration on this thread that I thought I would provide some progress pics of my project! My equipment includes:


MA 5-29-26 rack

MA HBL blanks

MA RSH custom shelves

Cisco Explorer cable box

Pioneer BDP-51FD

Sherwood R-972

Crown XLS 402 2 Channel amp


Let me know what you think and thanks!

Attachment 241501 

Attachment 241502 

Attachment 241503 

Attachment 241505 

Attachment 241504 

http://imageshack.us/g/705/ht1p.jpg/


----------



## A9X-308

At this stage in my life, I'd hate to think how many racks I've wired for audio, video, power and control but it would be hundreds.


THE essential ingredient is thinking about it and planning, well before you start actually wiring. You can do a very credible job first time if you are prepared to plan and to make custom cables.

Middle Atlantic * have a paper on cable management that should give some ideas on how to go about the 'doing' of it.


Things to consider:


- Will all items be fixed in place, ie can you slide out the rack or get to the wiring in the rear easily? This will determine whether you can loom and fix the cabling, or whether the loom will need to move.


- Will any wiring/looms need to move because they will be attached to a door or hinged panel? If so they will need to loomed in such a way that they are not kinked or stressed by the full range of movement. They will also likely need to be protected from rubbing on panel edges.


- How often do you change gear out? Most of the stuff I build will be in service without change for years, so we cable tie it all down tight. If you change things every other week, consideration should be given to flexibility of arrangement of the looms and velcro cable ties might be more appropriate.


- Layout of the signal and mains wiring. A good rule of thumb is to keep all signal wiring that crosses mains at 90* to reduce induction.


Another tip is to sketch it all out before starting to clarify what you're going to do. It doesn't need to be a mm accurate CAD drawing, and use different colours for different items, eg red for mains. Then install all the gear and start with one thing, eg mains wiring. Then move onto analogue audio etc.


If it's going to be a permanent install and you're going to custom wire it, then 'pre-loom'. Make some temporary fixing loops out of a bit of scrap wire etc and place these every couple of rack units along the path of the loom section making the loops large so you can thread all the cables through individually, one at a time. Thread each cable through them one at a time from point to point as required and leave some excess at each end. Mark each end of the cable for what it is. When all wiring is in place, remove the temporary fixing loops, neaten all the conductors into their final position, and cable tie the loom together and to the rack.


Now start working out the final lengths of each, snip to length and terminate. Use a meter to confirm that you have the markings correct and you are actually terminating the right conductor to the correct position. It's easy to make a mistake especially if all the wiring is one colour.


Take your time doing it, and realise it's going to take you much longer than you think first time.


Looming standard fixed length eg 1m cables is much more difficult to get neat especially if they are going to many locations, eg AVR to multiple amps and sources.


Mains wiring - get someone qualified to do it if you're actually terminating the conductors, not simply plugging them into a power strip. If you do do this DIY, and I strongly advise against it unless you know what you're doing, get someone to check it and test before powering it up. It would be a damn nuisance to have made a neat rack that because you got something wrong and the chassis is live and you end up frying your ass.


* They also have a thermal management paper on the same page that should be read by anyone building an enclosed rack.


----------



## damienbuckley

Almost done with my install - just waiting for the Isotek Aquarius to turn up



Attachment 241512 



Attachment 241513 



Attachment 241514 


Will post some back panel pics when I get chance


----------



## BleedOrange




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21820481
> 
> 
> Hello everyone! I received so much inspiration on this thread that I thought I would provide some progress pics of my project! My equipment includes:
> 
> 
> MA 5-29-26 rack
> 
> MA HBL blanks
> 
> MA RSH custom shelves
> 
> Cisco Explorer cable box
> 
> Pioneer BDP-51FD
> 
> Sherwood R-972
> 
> Crown XLS 402 2 Channel amp
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think and thanks!
> 
> Attachment 241501
> 
> Attachment 241502
> 
> Attachment 241503
> 
> Attachment 241505
> 
> Attachment 241504
> 
> http://imageshack.us/g/705/ht1p.jpg/



Beautiful!







That is exactly what I'm looking to do here soon. A quick question, if you dont mind; what kind of shelves did you use? I feel the MA site is not very user friendly and there are multiple shelves to use and I'm a bit lost here.


Thanks.


----------



## radchad3

Thanks! I went with the RSH custom shelfs/faces. They are on the right side of the Middle Atlantic website under "quick links." I paid about $99 shipped for each shelf/face. They are a little pricey but the look is fantastic! I worked with Chris at customavrack.com He will price match as well which is how I got the best deal! He was great to work with and answered my numerous questions before I ordered. Some of the websites I found to pricematch were smarthome, acmelectronics, and performanceaudio. Some of these have discount codes so do a search beforehand. Hope that helps!


----------



## mystic_sniper28

that's sweet


----------



## zuluwalker

Ooo I wish...


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21820481
> 
> 
> Hello everyone! I received so much inspiration on this thread that I thought I would provide some progress pics of my project! My equipment includes:
> 
> 
> MA 5-29-26 rack
> 
> MA HBL blanks
> 
> MA RSH custom shelves
> 
> Cisco Explorer cable box
> 
> Pioneer BDP-51FD
> 
> Sherwood R-972
> 
> Crown XLS 402 2 Channel amp
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think and thanks!
> 
> http://imageshack.us/g/705/ht1p.jpg/



Very nice... thats exactly what I was thinking for my application as far as the way the front looks and the way the back is supported. I would also want a glass front door on mine. How big is your unit? Spaces/U's?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BleedOrange* /forum/post/21826213
> 
> 
> Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is exactly what I'm looking to do here soon.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Me too although I'm considering making custom shelves and using the MA faceplates if its possible. Like, maybe I would just buy the front rails of an MA rack to connect the faceplates to. If not, a nice MA rack with their faceplates when I can afford it although spending more than $500 on a rack is not really in my budget.


----------



## damienbuckley

Got the Isotek Aquarius into place which about wraps it up for now. Heres some rack shots


Unboxing & installing Isotek Aquarius

Attachment 241700 



Attachment 241701 



Attachment 241702 


Completed rack, front & back

Attachment 241703 



Attachment 241704 


Equipment cupboard from rear. Solid door, locked rack, lots & lots of wires

Attachment 241705 



Attachment 241706 



Attachment 241707


----------



## radchad3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21827912
> 
> 
> Very nice... thats exactly what I was thinking for my application as far as the way the front looks and the way the back is supported. I would also want a glass front door on mine. How big is your unit? Spaces/U's?



I went with the slim 5 29u rack. They make a 20 and a 26 inch deep model. I went with the 26 inch deep model because my sherwood R-972 is pretty deep. I was concerned that it would be just too much but it turned out to be the right one for me.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

nice setup needs a bit of cable management work...


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28* /forum/post/21828162
> 
> 
> nice setup needs a bit of cable management work...



Agreed. Some lacing bars would polish that off


----------



## damienbuckley

Not sure who replies about cable management are to : ) if me - yeah, will make an effort to tidy up soon - just wanted to get it all going really - its been a LONG 12 months lol


----------



## BleedOrange




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21826262
> 
> 
> Thanks! I went with the RSH custom shelfs/faces. They are on the right side of the Middle Atlantic website under "quick links." I paid about $99 shipped for each shelf/face. They are a little pricey but the look is fantastic! I worked with Chris at customavrack.com He will price match as well which is how I got the best deal! He was great to work with and answered my numerous questions before I ordered. Some of the websites I found to pricematch were smarthome, acmelectronics, and performanceaudio. Some of these have discount codes so do a search beforehand. Hope that helps!




Great, thank you for the info! Maybe I'll be able to post up my rack here soon.










Edit:


The rack alone (on the link you provided) was $50 cheaper than the place I was looking at! whew. Thanks again.


----------



## radchad3

You bet! Make sure to post pics when you get it completed!


----------



## JamesVG81

It's not as nice as most of the racks in here but I only paid a 100 bucks off Cragslist for it


----------



## Neurorad

I've seen several MA WRK racks show up on eBay the last few days, in IL, OH, and Atlanta, if anyone is interested. Some will ship.


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesVG81* /forum/post/21833554
> 
> 
> It's not as nice as most of the racks in here but I only paid a 100 bucks off Cragslist for it



Very nice rack James... I actually really dig the red. Just need to get you some faceplates and fillers and you will have a better, more unique rack than any here. I've never seen one in red.


...and I see you're in Winston. I'm from Winston originally now living in Charlotte. Have you been over to the regional forums and discovered the NC threads? We're supposedly having a meet in Raleigh in a week or two at one of the members houses. PM me if you're interested.


-Nate


----------



## Neurorad

I really like those cage nuts, instead of the standard screw holes.


Anyone, perchance, seen or heard of a Slim 5 configured with cage nut (square) holes, for the front and/or rear rails? It's not an option on the MA Slim 5 page, but is an option for other MA racks.


I think I'll prob end up contacting MA for that one.


----------



## Neurorad

MA says no, Slim 5 cannot be configured with cage nut style rails.


Very prompt response from MA. Good company.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21826262
> 
> 
> Thanks! I went with the RSH custom shelfs/faces. They are on the right side of the Middle Atlantic website under "quick links." *I paid about $99 shipped for each shelf/face.* They are a little pricey but the look is fantastic! I worked with Chris at customavrack.com He will price match as well which is how I got the best deal! He was great to work with and answered my numerous questions before I ordered. Some of the websites I found to pricematch were smarthome, acmelectronics, and performanceaudio. Some of these have discount codes so do a search beforehand. Hope that helps!



Thanks, radchad3, for posting this.


I'm just about getting ready to place an order for an AV rack and was going to order from either Smarthome or Stayonline or a combo of both when I ran across your post.


I did a quick check of the site you posted and their prices are pretty good, especially on the custom face plates. But how did you get them for $99 each? The price on the site is $109. I spoke with him today just before he left and I said I would send him a quote request.


I may PM you about your purchase as mine seems like it will be very similar.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21820481
> 
> 
> Hello everyone! I received so much inspiration on this thread that I thought I would provide some progress pics of my project! My equipment includes:
> 
> 
> MA 5-29-26 rack
> 
> MA HBL blanks
> 
> MA RSH custom shelves
> 
> Cisco Explorer cable box
> 
> Pioneer BDP-51FD
> 
> Sherwood R-972
> 
> Crown XLS 402 2 Channel amp
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think and thanks!



radchad3, your set up looks really nice.


I am planning a set up that should be very similar.

*AV Closet*:

We are currently building a HT and I made a dedicated media equipment closet (30"W x 24" D) at the rear.


There is a 2'x4' cut out through the rear wall of the HT into the media closet. The front of the rack and equipment will poke through that front opening into the HT and the rear of the rack will stick out into the closet behind.


There is a door on the other side of the closet so I will have clear rear access to all the equipment. There is a whisper quiet ventilation fan at the top and a air register in the front bottom of the closet that will draw fresh air in from the HT. The air flow will enter from below the rack in the front and exit out the top. The fan is controlled by an in line thermostat.


If I rest the front end of the rack in the cutout so that the rack front is flush with the interior of the HT wall, I think I could squeeze a 26" DEEP rack in the closet, but it would be tight in the back, although with the closet door open it shouldn't really matter. Even so, I just decided to stick with the 20" deep rack. None of my equipment is deeper than that and even if I get something deeper than that I don't mind it sticking past the end of the rack.

*AV Rack*:

Here's what I'll probably be getting:

Slim 5-29 (20" deep model)

3 x MA Custom plates (for AVR, BDP, and Power conditioner)

1-3 x Emotiva rack ears (for amp(s))

MA Blank plates

*Equipment (The stuff I'll put in there)*:

Onkyo 3009 (MA custom face plate)

Oppo 93 (MA custom face plate)

Belkin PF60 (MA custom face plate)

Emotiva XPA-5 (URE-4 rack ears from Emotiva)

[Possibly 1 or 2 Emotiva UPA-2's. I have 2, but don't know if I will use them in this set up. If I do, they will be mounted with the URL-2 rack ears from Emotiva.]


The 5-29 has a 29U height.


The components above are 15U worth of stuff. Plus another 2 for each UPA-2 that I add. Plus I'll probably have some stuff like a Roku box hidden inside but not showing from the front, so another 1U-2U for hidden stuff.


I was thinking of just getting the 5-21, but felt that it would just be too tight and not really leave any room for expansion.


On the other hand, the height of a 5-29 will not fit in my 2'x4' opening, so I will have to reframe the height of that opening. It's already drywalled and painted, but not trimmed out or carpeted, so a pain, but not horrendous.


But I figure I should just bite the bullet now rather than (probably) continually regret it later, and constrain myself to almost no room for expansion (especially if I end up installing both UPA-2's).


I will pad the width of the opening to more closely fit the 19 1/8" width of the Slim 5 rack before trimming.


----------



## megathunderchief




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21845180
> 
> 
> Thanks, radchad3, for posting this.
> 
> 
> I'm just about getting ready to place an order for an AV rack and was going to order from either Smarthome or Stayonline or a combo of both when I ran across your post.
> 
> 
> I did a quick check of the site you posted and their prices are pretty good, especially on the custom face plates. But how did you get them for $99 each? The price on the site is $109. I spoke with him today just before he left and I said I would send him a quote request.
> 
> 
> I may PM you about your purchase as mine seems like it will be very similar.



I'm getting ready to put in an order too- got quotes from ACMElectronics and CustomAVRack- I'll try not to talk price too much but Acme seems to be cheaper per unit while Custom seems to drop ship from more locations which saves a bit on shipping. There seems to be a little wiggle room in pricing, and depending on where you live, I'd go with the one who's closer to your location. Both provided comparable service and alerted me that MA is planning on an across the board price increase on 1 April.


----------



## radchad3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21845180
> 
> 
> I did a quick check of the site you posted and their prices are pretty good, especially on the custom face plates. But how did you get them for $99 each? The price on the site is $109. I spoke with him today just before he left and I said I would send him a quote request.




Performanceaudio has a good deal on the custom face plates. Then use take5 for another $5 off and free shipping. This makes it 103.96 minus 5 equals 98.96. I ordered from Chris simply because he matched the price and well as a couple of other prices and he was very fast in answering emails. I felt that he earned the business!


----------



## radchad3

Also, if you can fit the 26" deep model it may be worth it. The emotiva amps I think are 19" deep. If not, don't sweat it, you can look at the offset lacing bars to give you some room if you got the 20" deep model. I think the 29U model is the right choice though even if it is alittle more work to fit it in. I also have about 15U for components but by the time you account for upgrades in the future and some ventilation space for the receiver/amps you are about right!


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21845470
> 
> 
> Performanceaudio has a good deal on the custom face plates. Then use take5 for another $5 off and free shipping. This makes it 103.96 minus 5 equals 98.96. I ordered from Chris simply because he matched the price and well as a couple of other prices and he was very fast in answering emails. I felt that he earned the business!



Thanks for the info, radchad3!


The only thing is that after I add the code, it drops below $100 so the free shipping goes away.


I guess I can add a blank insert or something to the order to help pad it out and in the end it may not matter if Chris can match these prices anyway. But just in case he can't and I have to order things from different sites, I'd like to bundle things into groups of close to $100 to essentially get 5% off.


I'm assuming this TAKE5 promo allows multiple uses?


----------



## Neurorad

I think deep components can stick out of the back of a 20" deep rack without an issue, if it's a fixed rack and nobody will see the back. The offset lacer bars provide adequate cable management to keep it tidy for the owner (the one person who will see the back).


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21845702
> 
> 
> Also, if you can fit the 26" deep model it may be worth it. The emotiva amps I think are 19" deep. If not, don't sweat it, you can look at the offset lacing bars to give you some room if you got the 20" deep model. I think the 29U model is the right choice though even if it is alittle more work to fit it in. I also have about 15U for components but by the time you account for upgrades in the future and some ventilation space for the receiver/amps you are about right!



Also, I was going to ask you what were the exact dimensions for the finished opening you framed in your cutout opening to get the rack to fit?


Yours looks pretty snug with the trim right up against the edges of the rack.


I was going to make the opening about 1/4"-1/2" larger than the rack (whose outer dimensions based on specs are 19 1/8"W x 54.5"H). That would make it 19 1/4-19 3/8"W x 54 5/8-54 3/4"H. I figure the 1/4"-1/2" extra would give me just enough room to slide it in (and out if necessary later) without too much trouble.


I was going to add the facing trim flush with the edges of the cut out (the inside of the opening will also be finished and trimmed out so it would be OK if it showed). Or I could make the facing trim overhang the inside of the cutout a bit so that it you can't see any gap around the rack frame.


I'll try to post some pics of the rough opening that is currently there if I can figure out how to post pics.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21845702
> 
> 
> Also, if you can fit the 26" deep model it may be worth it. The emotiva amps I think are 19" deep. If not, don't sweat it, you can look at the offset lacing bars to give you some room if you got the 20" deep model. I think the 29U model is the right choice though even if it is alittle more work to fit it in. I also have about 15U for components but by the time you account for upgrades in the future and some ventilation space for the receiver/amps you are about right!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21845930
> 
> 
> I think deep components can stick out of the back of a 20" deep rack without an issue, if it's a fixed rack and nobody will see the back. The offset lacer bars provide adequate cable management to keep it tidy for the owner (the one person who will see the back).



Thanks, both, for your input.


Yes, I could fit a 26" deep model in there, but only if I have the front of the rack rest inside the cut through to the HT and have the front of the rack flush with the inside rear wall of the HT, which is about 5 1/2" thick (it has 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the HT side).


I was going to do this anyway, but it would be a little tight with respect to accessing where I positioned the outlets for power and AV wiring along the one side wall. Plus, I would like to leave some flexibility in case I want my rack to sit further back and not flush with the HT wall (not sure why I would do that except may to mount some kind of glass door that sits just inside the cut through opening.


Yes, and I think the Emo amps are my deepest components for now, which are 19", so they should fit. And as Neurorad indicated, if I get something that is deeper than 20" down the line and it sticks out a bit in the back, I don't mind as nobody but me will really see the back.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *megathunderchief* /forum/post/21845277
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to put in an order too- got quotes from ACMElectronics and CustomAVRack- I'll try not to talk price too much but Acme seems to be cheaper per unit while Custom seems to drop ship from more locations which saves a bit on shipping. There seems to be a little wiggle room in pricing, and depending on where you live, I'd go with the one who's closer to your location. Both provided comparable service and alerted me that MA is planning on an across the board price increase on 1 April.



Yes, shipping is definitely a factor to consider. Chris at CustomAVRack also alerted me to the MA price increase on April 1, so I'll definitely be placing orders somewhere probably tomorrow or Saturday at the latest.


----------



## michaeljoo

I am just about finished deciding on how to layout my rack and am getting ready to order everything. However, I would greatly appreciate any comments, advice, and suggestions any of you all could make before I order (probably tomorrow 3/30/12 to avoid the impending price hike).


More details about my set up are described in several posts right above, but here is a summary:


I'm getting a 5-29 Slim 5 with 29U rack height.


I currently have 15U of components (+2U of "hidden stuff") = 17U.


Plus, I may very well end up adding 2-4U more if I end up adding 1 or 2 smaller amps to this rack.

*Components*:

-Onkyo 3009 (5U)

-Emotiva XPA-5 (5U)

-Oppo 93 (2U)

-Belkin PF60 (3U)

=15U of components


Plus:

-2U for a SH-5A shelf hidden behind a blank face plate for things like Roku device, router, etc... that don't need to be accessed or seen from the front.

-2U-4U if I add 1-2 UPA-2's to this rack; I haven't decided if I'll use them here or somewhere else.
Here are the configuration options from top to bottom that I'm considering. They are basically the same except for whether the vent at the bottom will be 1U or 2U high.

*Option A*:

-2U = Blank HBL2 (the SH-5A with the router and Roku and maybe a Mac mini will go here)

-3U = Blank HBL3

-2U = Oppo 93 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank HBL2

-5U = Onkyo 3009 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank HBL2

-3U = Belkin PF60 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank (HBL2

-5U = XPA-5 (Emo URE-4)*-2U = Blank HBL2

-1U = Vented Blank VTP1*
*Option B*:

-2U = Blank HBL2 (the SH-5A with the router and Roku and maybe a Mac mini will go here)

-3U = Blank HBL3

-2U = Oppo 93 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank HBL2

-5U = Onkyo 3009 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank HBL2

-3U = Belkin PF60 (Custom RSH4A)

-2U = Blank (HBL2

-5U = XPA-5 (Emo URE-4)*-1U = Blank HBL1

-2U = Vented Blank VTP2*
Since I have so much empty rack space, I figured I would distribute the empty spaces among the components to help with ventilation. There is active ventilation in this closet. Fresh air in from the HT from below the rack and out the top via a whisper quiet Panasonic bathroom fan.


The air in will be via primarily a register cut in the wall below the rack (which is situated about 18" above the riser in the rear of the HT). However, I figured it wouldn't hurt to have another vent in place of one of the blanks at the bottom of the rack.


I avoided putting a vented blank at the top of the rack in case that would short circuit the bottom to top air flow.


If I added any of the 2 UPA-2 amps, I would put them at the bottom with the XPA-5 and replace 1-2 HBL2 blanks.


I think I prefer Option B as it has a slightly bigger vent and it would leave me with a combo of 1x1U, 4x2U, and 1x3U blank plates which should give me a little more flexibility in terms of being able to expand without having to buy more blanks later.


With this combo of blanks I can accommodate any single component that is 1U-12U high without having to buy any more blanks and retaining the vented plate at the bottom. If I went with Option A, I could accommodate any single component from 2U-12U, but I think I wouldn't have as much flexibility in which blanks to replace in case I add more than 1 component down the line.


Thanks!


----------



## radchad3

I think either option works! The thing about racks is it is all owner preference. I may be wrong but I don't think there is a universal order for components. I have mine (from top to bottom) as: Future Belken PF60, cable box, BDP, receiver, amps. There are no right or wrong answers though!


As far as my cutout, I tried to put my 2x4 framing and drywall cutouts as close to the rack frame as possible. I slid my rack in from the front as the back is pretty snug. I think I probably have less than an 1/8 inch on either side. Then I left the rack out about 1/8 to 1/16 inch from the drywall and pushed my trim right up against the rack. This way you see no gaps or the drywall. It turned out exactly as I hope. Let me know if you need close up pics!


----------



## Neurorad

Seems that many blank plates are available on craigslist and eBay.


Can anyone confirm that the black color and texture are difficult to match, if MA branded?


Also, michaeljoo, take a look at the MA Trim Strips, to cover the screwheads. And, consider some lacer bars and wheels. Figure out the number of screws you'll receive with your parts. You seem to want to buy everything at once.


Anyone think wheels might be a good idea, for a rack that will rarely, if ever, be moved?


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21846403
> 
> 
> I think either option works! The thing about racks is it is all owner preference. I may be wrong but I don't think there is a universal order for components. I have mine (from top to bottom) as: Future Belken PF60, cable box, BDP, receiver, amps. There are no right or wrong answers though!



Yes, I think you are right about that.


In general, the guiding principles I used in determining the order of components in my rack were:


1. In general, bigger, heavier things towards the bottom (hence, the Emo XPA-5, which weighs a ton, and any other heavy amps will likely go towards the bottom). I would imagine this would be something of a general rule of thumb most people would use? I'm thinking it's not a good idea to put all the heavy stuff up top?


2. Put the components that I have to fiddle with more frequently at the most comfortable position for access. The opening starts about 18" off the riser in the rear of the HT, so the components towards the top half (about 4-5') will probably allow comfortable access without having to bend down. So the BDP and the AVR, the two that I'll access frequently will be in those spots.


3. If space is available, space/distribute the components vertically to aid in ventilation and minimize heat build up.


4. I suppose it would be better to put components that generate a lot of heat towards the top vs. bottom, but I'm sure this criterion will sometimes conflict with some of the others and then it's about prioritizing. Since my components will be spaced out and I have active ventilation, this wasn't as big of a concern for me.


If others have other rationales or criteria by which they organize and order the components in their racks, I'd love to hear them.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21846403
> 
> 
> As far as my cutout, I tried to put my 2x4 framing and drywall cutouts as close to the rack frame as possible. I slid my rack in from the front as the back is pretty snug. I think I probably have less than an 1/8 inch on either side. Then I left the rack out about 1/8 to 1/16 inch from the drywall and pushed my trim right up against the rack. This way you see no gaps or the drywall. It turned out exactly as I hope. Let me know if you need close up pics!



Great, thanks for the info!


So, it looks like you framed the opening pretty snug to the outer dimensions of the rack. So if I reframed my opening to be about 1/8" - 1/4" of the outer dimensions that should be similar to yours and enough clearance. Did you have any trouble with sliding the rack in with your clearance (about 1/8" on either side) or would a little more been better?


And it looks like the inside edge of your trim goes past the framed opening a bit to close off any gaps between the rack and framing.


If you could post a few close up pics that would be helpful, or you could PM me if you like.


Thanks!


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21846408
> 
> 
> Seems that many blank plates are available on craigslist and eBay.



I just did a quick search (for an HBL2) and only found 1 or 2 listings at the moment. I don't know how representative that one was, but when you factor in shipping, it seems like the ebay deal is more than just getting it from some of the vendors mentioned earlier.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21846408
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the black color and texture are difficult to match, if MA branded?



Good question. Unfortunately, I can't answer that yet as I haven't actually seen any of these. But you raise a good point if one were to consider non-MA branded plates.


Also, on a related note, I wonder if there is a noticeable difference between the rack (powder coated) and the custom and blank face plates (brushed anodized aluminum)? I got the BAA face plates to match the BAA faces on my components, but the rack itself is PC.


I guess when all the plates are on, you won't actually see the rack itself from the front?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21846408
> 
> 
> Also, michaeljoo, take a look at the MA Trim Strips, to cover the screwheads. And, consider some lacer bars and wheels. Figure out the number of screws you'll receive with your parts.



I'm glad you mentioned this, Neurorad; I was thinking of posting a question about these anyway.


How does a rack completely covered with custom plates and matching blanks look?


Does it look unfinished seeing the screws, or is it look nice enough (just not as sleek) that you don't really need the trim strips. I know you don't really need them, just like you don't really need the custom face plates, but how much nicer does it look with the trim strips? I decided it was nice enough and worth it for me to spend about 2X for the custom plates vs. universal shelves. I guess I'm trying to decide whether the trim strips would be worth the added cost as well.


Maybe more importantly, how about the lacer bars?


Chris at CustomAVRacks recommended them, and I dismissed the idea initially. However, as I read a little more and thought about it, I decided that it may not be a bad idea to keep things organized. But are the lacer bard a significant improvement over just tying wires and cables down to the rack frame (which is what I was going to do)?


While I am trying to keep costs down, if there is a big enough difference for the cost (aesthetically for the trim strips and functionally for the lacer bars), I'd rather just spend the money now instead of regretting and/or end up getting it later anyway and end up paying more (for example due to the extra shipping costs). Also, I wish that you could buy them in smaller bundles than a 10 pack. I think I would only need a few.


I definitely don't want the wheels in my particular application. My rack will be fixed, and I won't have to move it in and out too much, if at all. I'll have full access from the front and rear. The only time I could see needing to pull the rack out would be if I'm adding or rearranging components in the rack, and even then I'm not sure I would have to actually move the rack (this will be my first real rack, so I don't know if you can just slide components in and out easily with the rack in place).


But since my rack will be up off the floor (like in radchad3's set up) having the rack on wheels would make me very nervous that it might accidentally roll or be pushed off its platform at some point. I can just see it that one day I'll be doing something in the back of the rack and then the entire thing starts rolling towards me, off the platform, and squishes me underneath!


Regarding screws, I plan to just get a 100 ct of the 10-32 3/4" HP standard rack screws. Way more than I need, but it's only a few bucks more than the 50 ct.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21846408
> 
> 
> You seem to want to buy everything at once



Yes, I'm trying to keep the costs down and everything seems to have an initial minimum shipping charge. For example if you want to just purchase a single blank or a single pack of screws that might only be about $10-$15 and not weigh much, you still get hit with a minimum shipping charge that is still at least $6-10, depending on where you are shopping. Those additional shipping costs can really start to add up if you order smaller items piecemeal.


Conversely, once you are paying the shipping charges for an order already, usually the shipping cost only goes up incrementally if you are just adding items to the same order.


For example, adding that same extra blank plate or a pack of screws mentioned above to your existing order will usually only increase the shipping costs marginally ($1 or less) or maybe not at all. But if you order that same pack of screws or blank later by itself, you will be paying the minimum shipping fee all over again (usually at least $6-10), no matter how small or light the item is. That $10 pack of screws will all of a sudden be $20.


Actually, now that I've discovered that Performance Audio seems to ship most of the smaller in stock items free, I may revise my approach. Up until I found them (thanks, radchad3), every other site seemed to have minimum shipping fees (i.e. no free shipping), unless your order reach a certain minimum amount (e.g. $200 minimum order).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad* /forum/post/21846408
> 
> 
> Anyone think wheels might be a good idea, for a rack that will rarely, if ever, be moved?



Does your rack have access from the rear? If so, and you don't ever really plan to move it, or if it is on a raised platform (see my concern above), I would think maybe forgo the wheels. But if you may have to move the rack every so often, even only once/year, I would probably get the wheels because it's probably preferable to having to completely take the rack apart every time just to get access.


----------



## radchad3

I would think the wheels are just based on the application. I would not use them for my application, for example. The lacing bars I think are functionally necessary. But I have to admit I am a little OCD. I figure I want the back to look as good as the front. I think the trim pieces are truly optional. I looked at getting them but once my setup was complete I was certain that they weren't needed. I think the exposed screws add a little "professional" to the look. I will post some closer pics of my setup tonight.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

Lacer bars are about $60 for a pack of 10 if I recall. I think they're worth it to tidy the horizontal runs (across the shelves).


You can tie stuff to the rack, but you still normally have to run cables from the post to the other side of the shelf in many cases. For example, power on left, speaker cables on right. AV receiver's speaker outputs are frequently all the way across the back, so you got 5 or more speaker cables going across the shelf to reach all the speaker terminals


Typical choices are:
Tie to shelf if it has holes/slots in it
Get stick down tie wraps
Use lacer bars


Regards


Mark


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21848309
> 
> 
> I would think the wheels are just based on the application. I would not use them for my application, for example. The lacing bars I think are functionally necessary. But I have to admit I am a little OCD. I figure I want the back to look as good as the front.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21848440
> 
> 
> Lacer bars are about $60 for a pack of 10 if I recall. I think they're worth it to tidy the horizontal runs (across the shelves).
> 
> 
> You can tie stuff to the rack, but you still normally have to run cables from the post to the other side of the shelf in many cases. For example, power on left, speaker cables on right. AV receiver's speaker outputs are frequently all the way across the back, so you got 5 or more speaker cables going across the shelf to reach all the speaker terminals
> 
> 
> Typical choices are:
> Tie to shelf if it has holes/slots in it
> Get stick down tie wraps
> Use lacer bars
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Mark



LOL, OK you guys convinced me on the lacer bars, I think I'll add them to the package. I just wish they came in smaller bundles, although the 10 packs are about half the price what you mentioned, Mark.


I'm usually more willing to pay for functionality vs. aesthetics, so the functional value of cable management of the lacer bars will probably be well worth it IMO.


I'm sure I'll agree with this more wholeheartedly after I get everything and start wiring everything up. In our family room we have our AV equipment in a built in cabinet and the "cable management," ahem, of that cabinet is horrendous, it's rather embarassing.


It doesn't have a pro type rack like the MA rack, just some MDF shelves in a double sided cabinet that I had designed in our double-sided fireplace. After that experience, if the lacer bars will help keep things organized, it'll be worth it to me.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21848309
> 
> 
> I think the trim pieces are truly optional. I looked at getting them but once my setup was complete I was certain that they weren't needed. I think the exposed screws add a little "professional" to the look. I will post some closer pics of my setup tonight.



Thanks again for the info, radchad3. That's exactly the type of input I was looking for.


So it seems like the rack still looks professional, just in a more industrial vs. sleek way.


I would be more willing to spring for those as well, but I would need 2 and they are not cheap. I think I'll pass on these in light of the cost to benefit ratio, which in this case, unlike the lacer bars, to me is not as high.


Getting the custom plates and blanks (vs. just leaving the rack open) really added to the cost, but I think brought the aesthetics more to where I wanted it. Since it made such a huge aesthetic difference (as well as functionally by controlling air flow through the front of the rack) vs. just an open rack, I was OK with the added cost.


However, I don't know how much I would even notice the trim strips and, thus, don't know if the high cost would be justified in my eyes.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21848538
> 
> 
> However, I don't know how much I would even notice the trim strips and, thus, don't know if the high cost would be justified in my eyes.



I was surprised at how much of a difference the trim strips made...


Before:











After:











The only other differences between those two images was the change-out of the silver trim on the Emotiva amp for black trim, and the removal of a couple of stickers... The lack of visible screws remove a lot of "distracting visual elements".


So yes, I think you'll notice it. And +1 on springing for the custom faceplates. Before I built mine I was quite anti-faceplate due to the cost and the issues with upgrading. But finding good discount sources, and the fact (that I didn't know) that you can replace the faces without buying new shelves helped. And seeing the real results confirmed it...


Jeff


----------



## wkearney99

Wheels help if you have it flush-mounted out an opening and it's not just a few steps around. You can wheel it back from the opening to do whatever work is necessary and then wheel it back. Otherwise you're walking back and forth a lot getting things done. Once it's up and running, yeah, you're unlikely to be wheeling it out.


As for device placement, devices with no expected user interaction get put low, devices with only very infrequent access get placed high. The stuff you need regularly, like a receiver, work well in the middle. Just make sure there's enough airflow around everything. You don't want to put something that cranks out a lot of heat too close to the devices above it.


Yes, those trim strips do make it look cleaner. Nice job.


----------



## radchad3

Here are a couple more pics close up of the sides of my rack and the lacing bars in action for those interested. Thanks!!


I have to admit those trim pieces do look nicer than I have seen in other applications. Nice work!


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I think you are right about that.
> 
> 
> In general, the guiding principles I used in determining the order of components in my rack were:
> 
> 
> 1. In general, bigger, heavier things towards the bottom (hence, the Emo XPA-5, which weighs a ton, and any other heavy amps will likely go towards the bottom). I would imagine this would be something of a general rule of thumb most people would use? I'm thinking it's not a good idea to put all the heavy stuff up top?
> 
> 
> 2. Put the components that I have to fiddle with more frequently at the most comfortable position for access. The opening starts about 18" off the riser in the rear of the HT, so the components towards the top half (about 4-5') will probably allow comfortable access without having to bend down. So the BDP and the AVR, the two that I'll access frequently will be in those spots.
> 
> 
> 3. If space is available, space/distribute the components vertically to aid in ventilation and minimize heat build up.
> 
> 
> 4. I suppose it would be better to put components that generate a lot of heat towards the top vs. bottom, but I'm sure this criterion will sometimes conflict with some of the others and then it's about prioritizing. Since my components will be spaced out and I have active ventilation, this wasn't as big of a concern for me.
> 
> 
> If others have other rationales or criteria by which they organize and order the components in their racks, I'd love to hear them.



I put my amp right at the top - 4RU filler panel and a 1RU fan unit above it. The amp is the hottest piece of kit in most racks. Why cook the rest of your gear by putting it at the bottom? Plus this is more or less eye level for me and the amp is the thing I most access.


I put my CD player below the amp with a 2RU filler, then the same down to the BD player. Cable length (My most expensive cables are only 0.6m and go between amp & CD player) was the factor in determining that order.


Power unit was next down below my xbox & apple tv.


I put everything else below with NAS drive, patch panel, network switch etc all at the bottom back - behind filler panels so I dont have to see them.


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at how much of a difference the trim strips made...
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> The only other differences between those two images was the change-out of the silver trim on the Emotiva amp for black trim, and the removal of a couple of stickers... The lack of visible screws remove a lot of "distracting visual elements".
> 
> 
> So yes, I think you'll notice it. And +1 on springing for the custom faceplates. Before I built mine I was quite anti-faceplate due to the cost and the issues with upgrading. But finding good discount sources, and the fact (that I didn't know) that you can replace the faces without buying new shelves helped. And seeing the real results confirmed it...
> 
> 
> Jeff



Yep - thats a huge improvement. Going to track some down now


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21848689
> 
> 
> I was surprised at how much of a difference the trim strips made...
> 
> 
> The lack of visible screws remove a lot of "distracting visual elements".
> 
> 
> So yes, I think you'll notice it. And +1 on springing for the custom faceplates. Before I built mine I was quite anti-faceplate due to the cost and the issues with upgrading. But finding good discount sources, and the fact (that I didn't know) that you can replace the faces without buying new shelves helped. And seeing the real results confirmed it...
> 
> 
> Jeff





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21849869
> 
> 
> I have to admit those trim pieces do look nicer than I have seen in other applications. Nice work!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/21849947
> 
> 
> Yep - thats a huge improvement. Going to track some down now



Thanks, Jeff, for posting those pics.


All I can say now is "Rats," now I'm going to have to get those trim strips.


I thought I was fine with the exposed screws, but after looking at your pics, I have to agree with radchad3, those trim pieces do look nice. Which means that eventually I will probably be getting them.


However, I think I will have to qualify that purchase with "eventually" vs. right now just due to the cost. I think they come in 72" strips, so I would have to get 2 (since one won't be enough for both sides).


At this point, I'm trying to keep costs down as much as possible, since I hadn't planned on getting a real rack to begin with.


I decided to go for the custom faceplates now, but the trim strips seem like something that can easily be added later without having to drop an existing part (which is what would have happened if I got universal shelves now and then later upgraded to custom faceplates, since the faceplates aren't compatible with the the unviersal shelves).


But the trim strips are something that seems like it will be easy to add later without sacrificing any functionality in the present.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21859259
> 
> 
> However, I think I will have to qualify that purchase with "eventually" vs. right now just due to the cost. I think they come in 72" strips, so I would have to get 2 (since one won't be enough for both sides).



Yep, same was true for me, and probably just about everyone...



> Quote:
> I decided to go for the custom faceplates now, but the trim strips seem like something that can easily be added later without having to drop an existing part (which is what would have happened if I got universal shelves now and then later upgraded to custom faceplates, since the faceplates aren't compatible with the the unviersal shelves).
> 
> 
> But the trim strips are something that seems like it will be easy to add later without sacrificing any functionality in the present.



Correct. You just need to pull out a few screws to add the washers that clip the strip into place. I had mine but didn't install them until several months after the rack was complete. Note that they are rigid aluminum U-channels, not some cheapo rubber/plastic weatherstripping... Which also explains the cost and shipping!


But yes, you can absolutely do this later with no cost penalty. Just be prepared for us to poke you about it when you post your pictures.

















Jeff


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/21849941
> 
> 
> I put my amp right at the top - 4RU filler panel and a 1RU fan unit above it. The amp is the hottest piece of kit in most racks. Why cook the rest of your gear by putting it at the bottom? Plus this is more or less eye level for me and the amp is the thing I most access.
> 
> 
> I put my CD player below the amp with a 2RU filler, then the same down to the BD player. Cable length (My most expensive cables are only 0.6m and go between amp & CD player) was the factor in determining that order.
> 
> 
> Power unit was next down below my xbox & apple tv.
> 
> 
> I put everything else below with NAS drive, patch panel, network switch etc all at the bottom back - behind filler panels so I dont have to see them.



Thanks for the response, damienbuckley.


Yes, I can see your reasoning for putting the amp at the top due to its heat production and I have thought of that (see point 4).


However, I guess concerns with the rack being top heavy (I'm assuming the amps are usually the heaviest components in a typical rack, I know mine are) and thus being potentially easier to topple (although guess it would take a lot to push one of these things over), as well as which positions offer the most accessibility have me leaning towards keeping my amp at the bottom.


I am curious though that you said the amp is the component you access most. Why is this?


I'm imagining that I will almost never access my amp since I'm planning on controling it with a 12V trigger from my receiver.


I figure the component I will access all the time (almost everytime I use the HT) is the BDP so that I can put in the BD that I'm going to watch.


After that, maybe the receiver to potentially adjust settings and functions that I may not have programmed into my Harmony remote, or at least in the first level or two of screens. I may also look at my power conditioner to see what is going on every now and then, but I assumed that I would probably never have to do anything with the amp (I think there is only the power button?).


However, after your comment I may consider putting the amp at the top of the unit seems stable enough. Since I'll have the rack raised up on a platform about 2' off the ground, the very top levels of the rack may not provide optimal accessibility, so may be a possible location for a component that is not often accessed. Currently I have 5U of blanks up at the top.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21859299
> 
> 
> Yep, same was true for me, and probably just about everyone...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. You just need to pull out a few screws to add the washers that clip the strip into place. I had mine but didn't install them until several months after the rack was complete. Note that they are rigid aluminum U-channels, not some cheapo rubber/plastic weatherstripping... Which also explains the cost and shipping!
> 
> 
> But yes, you can absolutely do this later with no cost penalty. Just be prepared for us to poke you about it when you post your pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff



LOL, OK.


I'm sure I'll just be happy that I got the custom plates vs. just getting the universal ones and having the rack open in the front.


Actually, I was just going to see if I could find a sheet of dark plastic or plexiglass and just cut out my own "custom" openings in that sheet for my components to poke through.


With that perspective, I think I can take a little poking about trim strips vs. exposed screws.


----------



## michaeljoo

BTW, what are people using for cable management to tie down their cables and wires?


I just placed my order for the rack and accessories on Friday (before the price increase) at CustomAVRack, including the lacer bars for organizing the cables, but I didn't order any ties or velcro strips.


I assumed that the ones marketed as being used in racks would be overpriced and that one could find generic ties or velcro strips elsewhere.


Should I have ordered some ties/strips from CustomAVRack? I may be able to still call them and add some in.


I'm thinking I would probably lean towards velcro strips vies ties as I could readjust things as necessary with the velcro.


----------



## radchad3

I would go velcro without question. You will be surprised how many times you unvelcro something to add another cable! I have these and they work great!

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusabl...3402329&sr=8-1 


They are normally $6.99 from amazon but it looks like amazon is OOS.


----------



## radchad3

One question I have for folks with a solid front like mine. I have the 3 eye emitter with the eyes stuck on my components. Does the eye emit on the flat side or the curved side? I am having trouble getting a response from my components since I have added the eyes to the system. Any thoughts? Thanks! Chad


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21859477
> 
> 
> One question I have for folks with a solid front like mine. I have the 3 eye emitter with the eyes stuck on my components. Does the eye emit on the flat side or the curved side? I am having trouble getting a response from my components since I have added the eyes to the system. Any thoughts? Thanks! Chad



flat side


what trouble are you having?


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21859473
> 
> 
> I would go velcro without question. You will be surprised how many times you unvelcro something to add another cable! I have these and they work great!
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusabl...3402329&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> They are normally $6.99 from amazon but it looks like amazon is OOS.



I have those ones, but don;t liek them much as they're tricky to tighten/loosen. I've seen (but never used) ones that have a plastic "eyes", so velcro doesn't stick while pulling through. I'll buy those next time I need some.


Whichever ones you get, way better than cable ties


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21859473
> 
> 
> I would go velcro without question. You will be surprised how many times you unvelcro something to add another cable! I have these and they work great!
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusabl...3402329&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> They are normally $6.99 from amazon but it looks like amazon is OOS.



check out *Rip-Tie*: they are more expensive but really dress up a rack


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21848689
> 
> 
> I was surprised at how much of a difference the trim strips made...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only other differences between those two images was the change-out of the silver trim on the Emotiva amp for black trim Jeff




How did you change the silver trim on your Emo to black? This is one thing in my rack I wish Emotiva would have thought about.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21859354
> 
> 
> BTW, what are people using for cable management to tie down their cables and wires?



I use this stuff: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response, damienbuckley.
> 
> 
> Yes, I can see your reasoning for putting the amp at the top due to its heat production and I have thought of that (see point 4).
> 
> 
> However, I guess concerns with the rack being top heavy (I'm assuming the amps are usually the heaviest components in a typical rack, I know mine are) and thus being potentially easier to topple (although guess it would take a lot to push one of these things over), as well as which positions offer the most accessibility have me leaning towards keeping my amp at the bottom.



this is true though in my case the rack is static and I have the legs screwed down with it in place. Its very stable - dont forget these things are generally built to hold huge piles of servers with much more weight than most of us will ever add.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am curious though that you said the amp is the component you access most. Why is this?
> 
> 
> I'm imagining that I will almost never access my amp since I'm planning on controling it with a 12V trigger from my receiver.
> 
> 
> I figure the component I will access all the time (almost everytime I use the HT) is the BDP so that I can put in the BD that I'm going to watch.
> 
> 
> After that, maybe the receiver to potentially adjust settings and functions that I may not have programmed into my Harmony remote, or at least in the first level or two of screens. I may also look at my power conditioner to see what is going on every now and then, but I assumed that I would probably never have to do anything with the amp (I think there is only the power button?).



this is all true as well - I just got my control system installed but DO like to have access to the display to see whats going on - source & surround modes etc and at the top its at eye height for me. I agree 100% on the disc drawers - BD, CD, whatever, being the most accessed parts though. I've only just finished my install so still getting used to it all and with having put the rack at the back of the room, up until yesterday when the ipad control went in, have spent most evenings pointing remotes at the front of the room and taking a few seconds for the 'duh' to kick in











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> However, after your comment I may consider putting the amp at the top of the unit seems stable enough. Since I'll have the rack raised up on a platform about 2' off the ground, the very top levels of the rack may not provide optimal accessibility, so may be a possible location for a component that is not often accessed. Currently I have 5U of blanks up at the top.



Yep, above any other consideration, my amp was always going to be the hottest component and this was the biggest determining factor for its placement. It surprises me just how many pro installs I see with amps sat lower and very little space above to CD and BD players etc, all enclosed in a rack so the heat has nowhere to go but up - right through the other components. If I placed my Susano close under my other components they would be toast and Pioneer actually recommend leaving a huge space (30cm I think without checking the manual) around it.


Just make sure to anchor the rack and you wont lose any sleep over it. You can see the big gap above my amp and the fan at the top in this pic.

Attachment 242472


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21859539
> 
> 
> check out *Rip-Tie*: they are more expensive but really dress up a rack



Those are the ones: http://www.riptie.com/Pages/cwb.html


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21859574
> 
> 
> How did you change the silver trim on your Emo to black? This is one thing in my rack I wish Emotiva would have thought about.



Iusteve,


They sell them as an accessory on their site. $20, I believe.


It's in the same section as the rack ears for their stuff.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21859473
> 
> 
> I would go velcro without question. You will be surprised how many times you unvelcro something to add another cable! I have these and they work great!
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusabl...3402329&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> They are normally $6.99 from amazon but it looks like amazon is OOS.



Those are exactly the ones I was thinking of. I already placed an order, but yes, they are currently out of stock.


I didn't know if the Middle Atlantic ones, or something like that made any difference.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21859530
> 
> 
> I have those ones, but don;t liek them much as they're tricky to tighten/loosen. I've seen (but never used) ones that have a plastic "eyes", so velcro doesn't stick while pulling through. I'll buy those next time I need some.
> 
> 
> Whichever ones you get, way better than cable ties



Good to know.


I'll try to look around for some like this. Since the ones I ordered from Amazon (the ones without eyes) are temporarily out of stock, I probably have a little time within which to cancel, if needed, if I can find a suitable replacement.


Is there a specific velcro strap with eyes you could recommend?


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21859539
> 
> 
> check out *Rip-Tie*: they are more expensive but really dress up a rack





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u* /forum/post/21859794
> 
> 
> Those are the ones: http://www.riptie.com/Pages/cwb.html



Wow, those look nice, but, yes, they're expensive.


At this point, for me, if regular velcro strips will do the job, I'll probably go for the less expensive option. (This after he spends hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a custom AV rack.







)


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/21859655
> 
> 
> I use this stuff: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



Thanks, Brad. If I had thought about how to tie down cables earlier I may have just ordered these as I recently placed an order with monoprice (just received the package today, actually).


Now, for just one item, I'll probably try to stick with getting something from Amazon where I have free Prime shipping.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

 http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Cable-T...3408835&sr=8-2


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *damienbuckley* /forum/post/21859710
> 
> 
> this is true though in my case the rack is static and I have the legs screwed down with it in place. Its very stable - dont forget these things are generally built to hold huge piles of servers with much more weight than most of us will ever add.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, above any other consideration, my amp was always going to be the hottest component and this was the biggest determining factor for its placement. It surprises me just how many pro installs I see with amps sat lower and very little space above to CD and BD players etc, all enclosed in a rack so the heat has nowhere to go but up - right through the other components. If I placed my Susano close under my other components they would be toast and Pioneer actually recommend leaving a huge space (30cm I think without checking the manual) around it.
> 
> 
> Just make sure to anchor the rack and you wont lose any sleep over it. You can see the big gap above my amp and the fan at the top in this pic.



Thanks for your responses again, damienbuckley.


Actually, after reading your posts about the heat issue I am serious going to consider putting my amp at the top. I currently have 5U of blanks planned for the top of the rack, so it's not in the prime access position anyway.


If I screw down the rack to the platform, then I won't have to worry about it possibly tipping over (and it won't have wheels, mostly out of this same safety concern).


I spaced everything out so that everything would have 2U in between components anyway, and I will have active ventilation (air in from the bottom 2U and also an air intake register below the rack and air out through a 1100 CFM whisper quiet fan at the top of the closet), but still, it probably wouldn't hurt to have the most likely hottest component at the top.


I may try stuff out first to see how hot they run, but does anyone know how hot an Emotiva XPA-5 runs?


I have one and it will go in the rack, but I haven't even opened it yet. It's been sitting in the box since I got it last Nov/Dec awaiting completion of the HT.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21859354
> 
> 
> BTW, what are people using for cable management to tie down their cables and wires?
> 
> ...
> 
> I'm thinking I would probably lean towards velcro strips vies ties as I could readjust things as necessary with the velcro.



I find it helpful to use a couple of loops of zip-ties to act as guides to get the wires laid out where I want them. Then, once the setup is reasonably complete, I go back and put on the velcro straps. For me it's easier to have the various cables 'loose' in the zip-tie guides until everything is setup and working properly. Then I'll usually go back and cut off the zip-ties.


I also find it helpful to group different types of cables on different upright rails on the rack. This makes it easier to rearrange/replace them as needs change. For stuff like the really thin gauge IR emitter wires it's better (for me) to keep them separate to avoid damaging them.


It's also handy to use wire tie to keep individual cables bundled neatly (the IR emitter cables mentioned above). This usually works better than zip ties as I can just untwist them should things need to move, instead of having to cut and throw away a zip tie. Once bundled it's all held with the velcro straps.


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your responses again, damienbuckley.
> 
> 
> Actually, after reading your posts about the heat issue I am serious going to consider putting my amp at the top. I currently have 5U of blanks planned for the top of the rack, so it's not in the prime access position anyway.
> 
> 
> If I screw down the rack to the platform, then I won't have to worry about it possibly tipping over (and it won't have wheels, mostly out of this same safety concern).
> 
> 
> I spaced everything out so that everything would have 2U in between components anyway, and I will have active ventilation (air in from the bottom 2U and also an air intake register below the rack and air out through a 1100 CFM whisper quiet fan at the top of the closet), but still, it probably wouldn't hurt to have the most likely hottest component at the top.
> 
> 
> I may try stuff out first to see how hot they run, but does anyone know how hot an Emotiva XPA-5 runs?
> 
> 
> I have one and it will go in the rack, but I haven't even opened it yet. It's been sitting in the box since I got it last Nov/Dec awaiting completion of the HT.



Great. I'm no expert but glad I could help


----------



## stockmonkey2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21859883
> 
> 
> I spaced everything out so that everything would have 2U in between components anyway, and I will have active ventilation (air in from the bottom 2U and also an air intake register below the rack and air out through a 1100 CFM whisper quiet fan at the top of the closet), but still, it probably wouldn't hurt to have the most likely hottest component at the top.
> 
> 
> I may try stuff out first to see how hot they run, but does anyone know how hot an Emotiva XPA-5 runs?
> 
> 
> I have one and it will go in the rack, but I haven't even opened it yet. It's been sitting in the box since I got it last Nov/Dec awaiting completion of the HT.



Where did you find a quiet 1100 CFM fan? I don't think that much air could move through a 2U vent and the small space at the bottom of the rack. I cant imagine you would need anything close to 1100 CFM to cool a rack. The Emotivas are class D so they do not run very hot.


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21859883
> 
> 
> 
> I may try stuff out first to see how hot they run, but does anyone know how hot an Emotiva XPA-5 runs?



I have the same amp in the bottom of my rack: it runs cool


I have 1RU clearance above and below and never had an issue


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stockmonkey2000* /forum/post/21861103
> 
> 
> Where did you find a quiet 1100 CFM fan? I don't think that much air could move through a 2U vent and the small space at the bottom of the rack. I cant imagine you would need anything close to 1100 CFM to cool a rack. The Emotivas are class D so they do not run very hot.



Whoops, it's a 110 CFM fan, not 1100. Sorry, I mistyped that (a whisper quiet 1100 CFM fan would be something).


But it's a Panasonic FV 11VQ3. 110 CFM and 0.8 sones.


My HVAC contracter suggested this for this application and said that others with similar needs used it. I have also read about the Panasonic fans mentioned on these boards.


The air register below the rack is about 22" x 4" or something like that, plus the 2U vent for some air right on the rack.


Thanks, stockmonkey2000, for the info on the Emo amp. If they don't run too hot I may have to rethink the order of components again. I can ask my brother as well, he has an XPA-3.


Perhaps another component to consider is the receiver. I have an Onkyo 3009. While I haven't used it yet (it's just waiting for the HT to be finished), I did have an Onkyo 803 and now an 809. I know the 803 produced a fair amount of heat. I can check on the 809. I imagine the 3009 will be in the same vein, if not hotter.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin* /forum/post/21861387
> 
> 
> I have the same amp in the bottom of my rack: it runs cool
> 
> 
> I have 1RU clearance above and below and never had an issue



Thanks, markrubin.


OK, since multiple people are telling me that the Emo amps run cool, I may keep that on the bottom of my rack (it will have a 2U vent + 1U blank right below and a 2U blank right above) and consider putting my AVR at the top, as that is likely to be the hottest component.


I will still probably have 5U of blanks above it, so it should still be accessible (the rack will be raised off the ground about 2').


----------



## stockmonkey2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaeljoo* /forum/post/21861391
> 
> 
> Whoops, it's a 110 CFM fan, not 1100. Sorry, I mistyped that (a whisper quiet 1100 CFM fan would be something).
> 
> 
> But it's a Panasonic FV 11VQ3. 110 CFM and 0.8 sones.
> 
> 
> My HVAC contracter suggested this for this application and said that others with similar needs used it. I have also read about the Panasonic fans mentioned on these boards.
> 
> 
> The air register below the rack is about 22" x 4" or something like that, plus the 2U vent for some air right on the rack.
> 
> 
> Thanks, stockmonkey2000, for the info on the Emo amp. If they don't run too hot I may have to rethink the order of components again. I can ask my brother as well, he has an XPA-3.
> 
> 
> Perhaps another component to consider is the receiver. I have an Onkyo 3009. While I haven't used it yet (it's just waiting for the HT to be finished), I did have an Onkyo 803 and now an 809. I know the 803 produced a fair amount of heat. I can check on the 809. I imagine the 3009 will be in the same vein, if not hotter.



That sounds more like it 1100 cfm is a monster fan. I have one of the panasonic whisper fans to pull air from my projector - it does run very quiet. For my equipment rack I used 3 120mm fans (50cfm each). They are controlled by the coolerguys fan controller. I have not got my equipment installed in my rack but expect that it should move enough air to keep everything cool.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stockmonkey2000* /forum/post/21862039
> 
> 
> That sounds more like it 1100 cfm is a monster fan. I have one of the panasonic whisper fans to pull air from my projector - it does run very quiet. For my equipment rack I used 3 120mm fans (50cfm each). They are controlled by the coolerguys fan controller. I have not got my equipment installed in my rack but expect that it should move enough air to keep everything cool.



LOL, yes, at 1100 CFM we are starting to talk about whole house attic fans for smaller houses!


I have 2 Panasonic whipser quiet fans, one for the AV closet and a separate smaller one (maybe 50 or 80 CFM?) for the PJ which is in its own PJ cabinet in the next closet over.


I'm glad to hear that they are quiet.


----------



## michaeljoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radchad3* /forum/post/21859473
> 
> 
> I would go velcro without question. You will be surprised how many times you unvelcro something to add another cable! I have these and they work great!
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusabl...3402329&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> They are normally $6.99 from amazon but it looks like amazon is OOS.



Looks like those velcro strips from Amazon are back in stock. I placed an order yesterday when they were temporarily out of stock, but just got an order update today that they will arrive by the end of this week.


----------



## SerenaFate

Thought I'd share my rack as I just finished this contraption - well, the construction part at least as it is quite empty at the moment. So far the only equipment in there is the subwoofer system: dbx Driverack PX, Crown XLS402 and a t.amp proline 3000. The Crown amp is only temporary and will power some surrounds later on. That together with a receiver (Pioneer VSX-2021) is actually all the HT equipment I have at the moment as I didn't start on the HT/living room yet. I had to finish the equipment room/IB chamber first, because the IB is part of the ceiling downstairs and couldn't really start as long as the location wasn't finalized.


Here it is: 2x30U











Yes, it's pretty much floating in mid air above the IB manifold only attached to the right-hand wall. Behind the false wall is actually a 14" (36cm) brick wall and the rack is attached with 6 wall anchors, each with a pull-out rating of over 400kg. I calculated it through and I could actually put a load of 1.4 metric tons (that's 3086 lbs) on the outer edge and it wouldn't budge, but I don't think the wall would survive that









The front and back frame are made from 7/8" (22mm) beech plywood. Pretty strong stuff and really hard (my jig saw hates it with a passion). I think you could cut a thread into it - I accidentally did that actually when trying to get one of those 1/2" (M12) bolts through it.

The vertical panels with the cutouts for weight reduction are 5/8" (15mm) birch plywood. The rack rails are Adam Hall 6162 Sliding Rack Strips. I prefer those over the steel rails with cage nuts.


The left side will house most of the A/V equipment (everyting I don't have to access very often) and the right side mostly network, servers and the music distribution system for the house, but I think some of the A/V stuff might spill over.


The two panels in the wall will house the switch system for the power amps as I can't turn them all on at the same time or the breaker will trip, the temperature control for the room and the automation for the light in the living room/HT.











Here's the back side of things. The bottom part is hollow to catch any excess wiring and in the front there is actually a channel to transport cold air to the front of the equipment. The false wall itself has rectangular holes as those are wiring channels leading to conduits which in return go through the rest of the house. I will close those off with panels once I finish all the wiring. (It's only a false wall anyway.


Also in the picture is the beginning of the color coded power outlets. Yellow will have some delay added, blue is just switched on with the receiver. Red (UPS), white (standard) and green (network) will follow. All in all I have 6 16A/230V lines going into this room. The outlets will be completed as I assemble the rest of the equipment.


Here is how the rack went together:











This is the wall connection. The rack bolts to the vertical boards (7/8" beech plywood again) which are anchored to brick wall. Two orange 4" conduits, left to other conduits to the rest of the house, right straight down into the living room. The metal pipe is a 5" cold air return and vents in front of the equipment through slots in the bottom of the rack.

The inline fan visible in this picture is calculated to replace the air in the room 12 times per hour, which should be enough to keep the equipment cool, considering the room is kinda large and will otherwise only be used for storage.











I prefeabricated the whole rack in the workshop. The two Ls of each frame were then glued and bolted together in place.











It actually surprised me a bit how strong it was at this point already. Standing on the frame was no problem.


But to be honest, although I calculated everything several times and designed and constructed the damn thing - seeing it hanging there in mid-air freaks me out a little. I might actually add some sort of support on the left side or at least a safety steel cable to the roof beams (4x10s) in the ceiling. Those little beams visible in the pictures don't hold anything at all, they're just fake beams, because I wanted to test something - and what is better suitable for that than a storage area, right?


But for now, this has to do:











That way I can check whether it moves or not. The black iron angles visible in the picture are actually not holding anything. They were just added to hold everything together during construction and I'm far too lazy to pull them out










I built the rack that way, because I wanted to save space. While my place is rather big (for one person at least), this is the only real storage area and because of the slope not really usable at that (I might add some steps later on)


----------



## wkearney99

So that's some sort of angled up floor beneath it? Following a vaulted ceiling below? You've essentially got the rack mounted below a sloped roofline, but above a sloped ceiling below it, right? I couldn't figure out the angles of it all just from those pix.


----------



## SerenaFate




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99* /forum/post/21887751
> 
> 
> So that's some sort of angled up floor beneath it? Following a vaulted ceiling below? You've essentially got the rack mounted below a sloped roofline, but above a sloped ceiling below it, right? I couldn't figure out the angles of it all just from those pix.



Yeah, that's pretty much it. Here is a picture right after I put the carpet in:











The door is rather tiny, because this was originally an unfinished attic space.


The construction of this part of my house is rather weird. The supporting structure below the "floor" of the equipment room is constructed like a roof, because it actually extends into a real roof behind the back wall.


I think this rendering explains it best (though the HT part is outdated)











Here you can see that the living room is wider than the room above. The brick wall in the back of the equipment-room is actually sitting on top of a diagonally running I-beam. Took me a while to figure out how this house is built. xD


----------



## Expat444




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SerenaFate* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's pretty much it. Here is a picture right after I put the carpet in:
> 
> 
> The door is rather tiny, because this was originally an unfinished attic space.
> 
> 
> The construction of this part of my house is rather weird. The supporting structure below the "floor" of the equipment room is constructed like a roof, because it actually extends into a real roof behind the back wall.
> 
> 
> I think this rendering explains it best (though the HT part is outdated)
> 
> 
> Here you can see that the living room is wider than the room above. The brick wall in the back of the equipment-room is actually sitting on top of a diagonally running I-beam. Took me a while to figure out how this house is built. xD



Ok that makes it clearer thanks, I thought my eyes were going funny


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SerenaFate* /forum/post/21887833
> 
> 
> The construction of this part of my house is rather weird.
> 
> 
> Took me a while to figure out how this house is built. xD



So pull the permits issued for it, that ought to give you some insights as to what was planned (which isn't always the same as what got done).


Thanks for clarifying, that rendering made it perfectly clear.


----------



## bobdoggy




----------



## damienbuckley

That looks AWSM. Love the Rotel gear


----------



## tbraden32

You have more details on build and pictures? Looks nice!


----------



## newHTowner

Hi Guys,


Trying to finish my rack - thanks for all the helps BTW.


I need to use a 8 port gigabit switch - unfortunately, I can't find one with the outlet in the back - I have custom face for all the components - the only way to do this would be to run wires in the front which would take away from the clean look.


Help


----------



## wkearney99

Why bother needing to see the switch? Just put it on a shelf and put a faceplate over the space. It's not like you need to see it. That and the blinking lights are likely to be more distracting than would be desirable. It's one thing to have some lights showing, it's another to have a chaotic amount of network LEDs blinking all the time. The steady light of a component wouldn't draw your eye, lots of flashing network traffic would.


Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against the idea. Just that it might be a lot more cost effective to use a plain old switch on a shelf and a faceplate. All of the other equipment in the rack has rear facing connectors, so why shouldn't a switch be set up the same way?


Is there some scenario where you'd need to be plugging/unplugging things in this switch that wouldn't also apply to the rest of the gear in the rack? If that's the case then perhaps having a different plan for the switch connections should be considered. I have found it very useful to have all of my media devices that use a lot of network bandwidth on their own switch, separate from the rest of the network. This allows the Tivo's, HDHR tuners, MCE PC and various streamers to saturate their own segment of the network without disrupting any of the other traffic.


So if I want to deal with having free ports available for other devices I don't have to interfere with the media device's network at all. Bear in mind, when you fiddle with cabling it's very likely something else will get disrupted. Yes, it's always good to be careful about it, but you never know. When you keep the "fixed, appliance-like" devices separate you avoid introducing unexpected problems.


----------



## tbraden32




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why bother needing to see the switch? Just put it on a shelf and put a faceplate over the space. It's not like you need to see it. That and the blinking lights are likely to be more distracting than would be desirable. It's one thing to have some lights showing, it's another to have a chaotic amount of network LEDs blinking all the time. The steady light of a component wouldn't draw your eye, lots of flashing network traffic would.



Agree completely with this.


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbraden32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Agree completely with this.



I have mine mounted with the patch panel at the back of my rack, behind blanks as others have mentioned


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newHTowner* /forum/post/21895944
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> Trying to finish my rack - thanks for all the helps BTW.
> 
> 
> I need to use a 8 port gigabit switch - unfortunately, I can't find one with the outlet in the back - I have custom face for all the components - the only way to do this would be to run wires in the front which would take away from the clean look.
> 
> 
> Help



Issue discussed here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1368918


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99* /forum/post/21895970
> 
> 
> Why bother needing to see the switch? Just put it on a shelf and put a faceplate over the space. It's not like you need to see it. That and the blinking lights are likely to be more distracting than would be desirable. It's one thing to have some lights showing, it's another to have a chaotic amount of network LEDs blinking all the time. The steady light of a component wouldn't draw your eye, lots of flashing network traffic would.



Same here, I just velcro-pad stuck my 8-port switch to the underside of an existing shelf, and filled with a blank faceplate. If there's a big, low-heat-producing item (DVD player) with no top venting, just setting the switch on top of another product also works...


Since my rack pulls out for service, I mounted the switch sideways, so the plugs/LEDs are visible from the sides instead of the back.


Jeff


----------



## newHTowner

All great points - thanks guys.


I'll going with a switch on a shelf in the back with blank plate in the front for a cleaner look. Was thinking about a patch panel - any thoughts?


----------



## dhendriksen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newHTowner* /forum/post/21899700
> 
> 
> All great points - thanks guys.
> 
> 
> I'll going with a switch on a shelf in the back with blank plate in the front for a cleaner look. Was thinking about a patch panel - any thoughts?



Yeah...I have 2 switches in my rack. They're rack mount switches, but I have them mounted in the back. It would drive me crazy having all those wires and blinking lights on the front.


RE: patch panel...I don't use one. I didn't see the point.


----------



## wkearney99

Patch panels are nice but unless you know you're going to be moving stuff around they're not really 'needed'. What you REALLY want to avoid is having anything moving cables that come directly out of the wall. If your cables coming out of the wall can be rigidly secured to something and NEVER moved then you could skip a patch panel. I offer this warning because you don't want to have an in-wall cable get damaged. It's one thing to replace a broken patch cable, or maybe just an end connector. But if you have a wire coming out of the wall and it gets damaged you're going to have to replace it... all the way to the other end. For non-network stuff like phones you could splice it, and some folks feel the same way about 10/100 network traffic (not me). For gigE you're pushing your luck trying to splice things.


So using a patch panel or a wall plate with plugs is usually a better way to deal with terminating in-wall cables. A little more money, but a LOT cheaper than the long term hassles of replacing broken wires, right?


----------



## JamesVG81

I don't use a patch panel either. I just have everything run into the top of my rack into a Switch in the back of my rack. All my modems and networking stuff is hiden away behind everything. No one goes wow that a cool looking switch lol More like please for the love of God turn off the blinky lights lol


----------



## Chris DeWitt

Does anyone have any knowledge of a Hoffman E19SWM20U20 rack? I have one that I acquired free but I don't know if it's worth much or if other rack components (shelfs, plates,etc) will even work with it.


Anyone have any experience with this rack?


----------



## Neurorad

Hoffman is a manufacturer. If it's for servers, then it is very deep, and large.


If it will be out of sight, in a mechanical room, and you have room, then it's perfect.


If have a HP server rack that I use. I'm replacing it, because it's too large for the small mechanical room. Otherwise, it's wonderful.


I like the square slots for cage nuts. Some server racks use cage nuts, rather than threaded screw holes like AV racks. No stripped screw problems.


Find the rack instructions/user manual, online. Might be helpful.


The depth is useful to mount stuff on the back, and for cable management. I added a third pair of vertical rack rails, between the front and back (toward the rear) for more flexible cable management.


Sides, top, and doors are useful, as are casters. I took the sides, doors, and top off when I got it, and I haven't put them on yet. They may be useful to manage heat.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris DeWitt* /forum/post/21903669
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any knowledge of a Hoffman E19SWM20U20 rack? I have one that I acquired free but I don't know if it's worth much or if other rack components (shelfs, plates,etc) will even work with it.



One idea behind rack mounting is compatibility. There's basically two standard sizes, 19" is the most common for computer equipment. 21" is typically only used in commercial telecom installations (like inside a phone company central office). Depths vary. So pretty much any 19" rack is going to be the same as any other, in terms of whether stuff will fit in it (by width). The differences between racks is the mounting holes. Some use threaded holes. Some use unthreaded round holes (designed fr using cage nuts that clip on). Others (sometimes Dell and APC) use square holes designed for a different kind of cage nut that pops into the square hole. An advantage to cage nuts is you don't have to worry about the holes becoming cross-threaded or stripped out.


Swing-out racks are useful in some situations. They're generally not going to hold as much weight as an upright or fixed place would. Swinging out a lot of equipment and wiring is not as trivial as just opening a door or an access panel. You're putting the wiring at risk by moving it a lot. So generally I wouldn't use a swing-out without having all the wires come to wall plates of a patch panel on the wall. That way you'd only be moving easier to replace patch cords.


Also note swing-outs like that one require side spacing for the equipment to pivot. You're not going to use that one for a flush-mounted panel. For flush mount you have to use a slide-out and then pivot kind of setup (or just slide-out).


----------



## Tedd

The rack looks to be usable. 20" deep with standard spacing and 12/24 taped round holes.


I'd neuter the swing out function with a couple of holes with bolts and nuts.


----------



## Glimmie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd* /forum/post/21907370
> 
> 
> The rack looks to be usable. 20" deep with standard spacing and 12/24 taped round holes.
> 
> 
> I'd neuter the swing out function with a couple of holes with bolts and nuts.



12-24 is the less common screw size. The most popular is 10-32. Nothing wrong with 12-24 other than finding rack screws with plastic washers.


If you have trouble try www.mcmaster.com They have all types of raw screws including black and plastic washers.


----------



## Tedd

Or Ebay.


----------



## Neurorad

Oh, man, I was way off.


It's a 20U, 35" tall, 20" depth, wall mount, swing out rack, with threaded holes.


Might be a little on the short side, depending on what you want to put in it, but might work well for your needs.


----------



## GlassWolf












This rack I built myself, using spalted maple and red cedar, along with tinted tempered glass shelves I had cut and tempered to fit my specs for the cabinet.

I went this route because I had the gear in a room where I planned not to modify the walls/structure for an integrated rack, and I refused to pay $500+ for similar racks in catalogs.

It's got 5 shelves, supports and holds anything I've thrown at it up to and including 301 CD jukeboxes, and flagship AV receivers like the Integra DTR-80.3 and Onkyo TX-NR5009.


I have the rack in my Sun Room right now, adjacent to my living room where my TV and speakers reside. Everything is controlled via RF relay to discrete IR emitters.


This unit is going to be moved into my bedroom shortly, and replaced by a Sanus CFR2136 36U rack I'm going to build into the wall. The rack arrives tomorrow, and the 1U power conditioner and lighting module comes Tuesday.

Then I need to run some lines in-wall for the rack, and start tearing out the window where the rack goes, and drywalling in some space for the rack.


It's going to be quite a project.


----------



## kvsub

Looking at the previous postings here, i see people have bought from Middle-Atlantic, Sanus etc. I have a basic question here - I see most of the racks come with glass doors. For example, http://www.amazon.com/Techcraft-SF50.../ref=de_a_smtd 

If i have a rack with glass door on the side of my projector screen (say 2 to 3 feet distance) towards the wall, does that not reflect lights coming from projector? Just want to be sure whether reflection will not be a problem with all these fancy models..


Are there any retail stores that someone can recommend? Ideally i would like to see the piece before purchasing it?


----------



## jautor

Many audio "stands" come with glass doors, true "racks" may have the option for a glass/plexi door. Most of the true racks you see in this thread don't have official rack doors. If the rack is hidden it's usually behind a panel that's crafted to blend into the theater decor. Or the rack is mounted flush with the wall.


A "stand", like that excellent example built by GlassWolf above (really, really nice job!) doesn't have the components-supported-by-the-rails structure of a true "rack". But we very commonly call any audio stand a rack, especially when its populated with cool gear.










There are a few true racks that are styled a bit to look more like audio stand (a piece of furniture), and racks can also be built inside furniture.


But to answer your question, yes, I would avoid any glass doors on the front wall of a theater setup. May not be a problem at all, but I'd avoid it just in case... I had to do quite a bit of searching just for a console table that didn't have any glass - for the same concern as yours.


Jeff


----------



## LeBon

In my last theater, I used the Middle Atlantic smoked plexiglas doors on the racks (slim-5). They were up front, but facing across the room (not directly at the viewer). Worked great, and the lights on the equipment were not annoying. I would not want the lights facing the viewer up front, even with the smoked plex door in front.


----------



## LeBon

In my last theater, I used the Middle Atlantic smoked plexiglas doors on the racks (slim-5). They were up front, but facing across the room (not directly at the viewer). Worked great, and the lights on the equipment were not annoying. I would not want the lights facing the viewer up front, even with the smoked plex door in front.


----------



## kvsub

I am more worried about light that can possible come from projector screen hitting the glass door and again reflected..


----------



## GlassWolf

I'm not using a projector so it wasn;t really a concern for me, but the Sanus Foundation racks come with a glass door. Personally I plan to tint the door glass on mine when it goes into the wall, and it's on a side wall to where the Plasma TV is, so reflection isn't a big concern for me, but here are a couple pics of the Sanus 36U rack that just arrived..


This is the 1U power conditioner I also have (not my SOny unit though)










Rack with door open (front)










Rack with door closed (front)










back and side panel shot of the rack with tool-less panel removal and locks










Where the rack is sitting now, is where it's going to reside when I knock out the windows in front of it, and drywall it into place here:











left wall, in front of the tree is where the rack will end up being placed. I also need to put in the 2-gang plate behind the TV for AC outlet and cable drop, so I can hide all the wiring for the new TV in-wall as well.










I just need to re-route some wiring for satellite DVR, speaker wiring (in-wall), and electrical dedicated circuits when the windows come out.


----------



## ten8yp

I still dont and never will understand what is with people and having so much money in their racks then you see a pic of their tv and (in most cases) have less money in their TV. Seems redundant to me concerning home theaters. But then again, I would never spend more on my speakers or any one amp than my TV either. No one should but many people do. My question is... why?


Just my opinion but... Put a 70 - 80" on that wall before you spend $2k on a rack bro! You might also want to remount the tv a little higher







Just sayin'...


Nice racks either way though...


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21929181
> 
> 
> I still dont and never will understand what is with people and having so much money in their racks then you see a pic of their tv and (in most cases) have less money in their TV. Seems redundant to me concerning home theaters. But then again, I would never spend more on my speakers or any one amp than my TV either. No one should but many people do. My question is... why?
> 
> 
> Just my opinion but... Put a 70 - 80" on that wall before you spend $2k on a rack bro! You might also want to remount the tv a little higher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sayin'...
> 
> 
> Nice racks either way though...



Racks are a luxury item and to each his own, but disagree on the speaker reference. Speakers are one item in a HT that do not depreciate like electronics and that's b/c the technology doesn't change that quickly. A $2k display will be lucky to be work $500 on CL in a couple of years. Also, speakers tend to get significantly better as you go up in $$ (within reason of course) but with display, the law of diminishing returns kicks in a lot sooner. Even more so with todays technology where its just a few manufacturers assembling them.


----------



## Seadaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Racks are a luxury item and to each his own, but disagree on the speaker reference. Speakers are one item in a HT that do not depreciate like electronics and that's b/c the technology doesn't change that quickly. A $2k display will be lucky to be work $500 on CL in a couple of years. Also, speakers tend to get significantly better as you go up in $$ (within reason of course) but with display, the law of diminishing returns kicks in a lot sooner. Even more so with todays technology where its just a few manufacturers assembling them.



I agree on the speaker comment, I have a set of mirage speakers from the early 90's and love them I have no plans to replace them anytime soon. I still think that speakers made today are not of the same quality as they were in the past before china started producing the vast majority of them.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21929181
> 
> 
> I still dont and never will understand what is with people...



The same can be said for putting 20's on cars, high-maintenance crazy trophy wives, and all kinds of other nonsense. Sometimes it's just "because".


There are potential upsides to using a rack like orderly and secured wiring, better airflow and looks and consolidation of controls. All of which can be done without a rack. All of which can be done poorly with a rack. So while they're not necessary they do have some appeal worth considering. I don't know that I'd go out of my way to spend $2k on one, but I wouldn't insult someone that chose to do so.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21929181
> 
> 
> I still dont and never will understand what is with people and having so much money in their racks then you see a pic of their tv and (in most cases) have less money in their TV. Seems redundant to me concerning home theaters. But then again, I would never spend more on my speakers or any one amp than my TV either. No one should but many people do. My question is... why?
> 
> 
> Just my opinion but... Put a 70 - 80" on that wall before you spend $2k on a rack bro! You might also want to remount the tv a little higher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sayin'...
> 
> 
> Nice racks either way though...



Firstly, I have a 60" on the wall and I sit ten feet from it. It's plenty large enough, and ISF calibrated. The room isn't large enough to accomodate a projector, nor have I any intention of going through the hassle of light control for one, either.

I got the TV from a local shop, new, for $580 out the door instead of the %1400 retail price because it's a 2011 model. I got the entire rack setup for under $800 delivered, and the KEF reference speakers I bought for $400 and restored them myself. I don't have tons of money to spend on anything. I'm disabled, have been through 4 organ transplants among other medical issues, and am visually impaired, so while I can enjoy the TV, I have no need to buy a 3D set since I can't see anything in 3D anyway, and I consider that whole fad to be just that. A fad. I'm happy with my choices, and my system, for what I've spent, and the work I've done myself to install it and make it work.


I typically buy items used or even damaged, and do the repairs myself so I can get better gear for less money. Thrift store finds are also a large contingent of my gear, such as the Sunfire sub I picked up from Good Will with some shot capacitors. I re-capped the plate amp, and it's good as new, for next to nothing. My hearing is far better than my vision, so yeah, I spend more on the audio side of things, but I don't get as disappointed trying to find something good to listen to, as I do trying to find something worth watching.. especially more than once.


Everybody has their own priorities. I respect that you'd rather go for better visual than audio. I really enjoy home theaters with projectors and such.. I just don't have the money or space anymore to do a system like that. I am selling a 7350 sq ft home right now, and just moved to one that's 3100 sq ft. None of the rooms in this new home were really ideal for a dedicated HT or listening room, so I made do with what I was given to work with. My intention of using the rack in-wall was simple. It was to hide all the gear away out of sight and give me a clean installation taht left most of my living room usable as a living room instead of having everything racked up on the floor. The KEFs may eventually be replaced with some MartinLogan electrostatics, but I dislike sat/sub setups, so the floor standing speakers are going to stay, in some form. I much prefer them for listening to music.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99* /forum/post/21929781
> 
> 
> The same can be said for putting 20's on cars, high-maintenance crazy trophy wives, and all kinds of other nonsense. Sometimes it's just "because".
> 
> 
> There are potential upsides to using a rack like orderly and secured wiring, better airflow and looks and consolidation of controls. All of which can be done without a rack. All of which can be done poorly with a rack. So while they're not necessary they do have some appeal worth considering. I don't know that I'd go out of my way to spend $2k on one, but I wouldn't insult someone that chose to do so.



Yeah I forgot to mention that I have several cats also, and the rack will keep them out of the AV gear. No chewing or peeing on the cables, or leaving fur all over the amps they like to sleep on because they're so nice and warm, etc.. and I cal lock the rack which adds a minimal amount of security in addition to the home alarm system (and attack cat.) I can also manage better controlled air flow through a rack with push-pull fan layouts, and much neater cable management. The rack with a tinted glass door also keeps everything tucked away so the room/install looks a lot cleaner.


I used a 5 shelf AV rack prior to this Sanus model, and while it works great, it also gets very dusty on the glass shelves and gear, and there is literally no protection for any of the gear, from anything, be it peoples' kids, the pets, or the clumsy vacuum cleaner bumping into things occasionally.


In regards to the speakers vs display, I also agree on depreciation. I buy a new TV about once every 10 years. I went from a 27" Mits tube set to a 46" Mits widescreen RPTV, then to this new Panasonic plasma, and every time, the prior TV was practically given away, or tossed out. They retain hardly any value beyond about 2-3 years in most cases.

Speakers on the other hand.. My KEFs for example, are still considered really good speakers, and still sell on eBay for $500-1000/pair vs the $3000 they cost new back around 1984-1993. The speakers I have, are ones I wanted since I first heard them in a store in Va, back around 1990 when I worked as a car audio installer, and fell in love with them. Now that I have them, I have no desire to upgrade to something else for the time being. I haven't heard anything I feel sounds much better for under about 5 to 8 grand per pair, and I just don't have the money to spend for those. The ESLs I'd like also require a larger room with better sound treatment and are more picky about positioning, which is just more hassle than I'm prepared to deal with now too.


Anyway, I'll post pics when the rack is in the wall and everything is done.


----------



## scl23enn4m3

What types of IR blasters are people using when it comes having the RSH or DIY faceplates on your rack? I'm currently looking at one Niles makes because I think I could slip it between two plates and have it support itself:

Here 


Any other alternatives? I'd like to avoid having individual emitters stuck on the equipment.


----------



## GlassWolf

I use a logitech harmony 900 remote with the included RF blaster that takes RF from remote to blaster, then converts back to the normal IR at the emitters. I also use an 8-emitter Sewell IR dual-band repeater so the single Logitech emitter relays to 8 disrete emitters on the devices.


I hope that makes sense.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/21949006
> 
> 
> Any other alternatives? I'd like to avoid having individual emitters stuck on the equipment.



Why? They're cheap and the most reliable method of IR blasting... They still allow direct IR control (transparent), and if you need to, you can cover them with a shield to prevent interference.


Although it probably doesn't apply to your setup, if used with any 'routing' function, individual blasters allow multiple instances of identical components without resorting to multiple IDs.


Jeff


----------



## GlassWolf

if you don't want discrete emitters, look at a harmony 900 or 1100 remote with the logitech RF blaster. It allows 2 or 4 IR "blasters" which each have 3 IR emitters in them fired in a 90 degree or so radius, to be used. The blaster is optional on the 1100, included with the 900


----------



## airliner

question on equipment rack:

I need to install a 24 port internet switch on the A/V rack (middle Atlantic), can anyone suggest a make/model except from Crestron and Garret with connection on the back to obtain a clean look of the rack? Marco


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airliner* /forum/post/21954464
> 
> 
> question on equipment rack:
> 
> I need to install a 24 port internet switch on the A/V rack (middle Atlantic), can anyone suggest a make/model except from Crestron and Garret with connection on the back to obtain a clean look of the rack? Marco



Just pick any regular switch, rack-mountable or not. They're usually shallow, so either mount it facing the rear on the rear rails, or set it on a half-depth shelf (mounted on the rear rail). Fill the gap in the front with an appropriate blank plate...


I just velcro'ed a small switch to the underside of an existing shelf. Attaching it to the top of an un-vented component is also an option.


These options also allow you to push the switch in a few inches from the rear rail, if you have limited space for cable egress.


Jeff


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21951024
> 
> 
> Why? They're cheap and the most reliable method of IR blasting... They still allow direct IR control (transparent), and if you need to, you can cover them with a shield to prevent interference.
> 
> 
> Although it probably doesn't apply to your setup, if used with any 'routing' function, individual blasters allow multiple instances of identical components without resorting to multiple IDs.
> 
> 
> Jeff



I use the small emitters on my equipment right now. They do work well. I used them because of that exact reason. I had 3 Blu-ray players that were all the same model. I recently changed them out so now all my equipment is unique though. Personally, I find the emitters ugly and want to get rid of them. Wires coming coming through the rack doesn't work with the look I'm trying to achieve. I tested the blasters before I gave up my Harmony remote and all the equipment works without a hitch. I do have a white wall directly across from my rack, so maybe some reflection was involved. Either way it works just as well as individual emitters.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf* /forum/post/21954180
> 
> 
> if you don't want discrete emitters, look at a harmony 900 or 1100 remote with the logitech RF blaster. It allows 2 or 4 IR "blasters" which each have 3 IR emitters in them fired in a 90 degree or so radius, to be used. The blaster is optional on the 1100, included with the 900



I actually just got rid of my Harmony 900 because I didn't like it. I was thinking of using the logitech blasters, but they're pretty big against the equipment rack. So far the Niles one I linked to is the only low profile one I can find.


----------



## airliner

Txs Jeff


----------



## GlassWolf

another option is to stick with discrete emitters, and just open up each component you have, and attach the emitter directly to the IR receiver on the inside of the component face, so the wire comes out the back of the case, and the emitter is unseen.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> another option is to stick with discrete emitters, and just open up each component you have, and attach the emitter directly to the IR receiver on the inside of the component face, so the wire comes out the back of the case, and the emitter is unseen.



That is the most invisible way! I'd also suggest the Xantech designer emitters. They are extremely small, and with some careful cable routing, are almost invisible... The new "pro" designer emitter is even made to be attached and dressed - with a pigtail cable to make it easier to do...


Jeff


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf* /forum/post/21956608
> 
> 
> another option is to stick with discrete emitters, and just open up each component you have, and attach the emitter directly to the IR receiver on the inside of the component face, so the wire comes out the back of the case, and the emitter is unseen.



Considered it, but changing equipment and moving them around becomes hard. The emitters I have are 4 branching off from one wire, so it essentially tethers 4 pieces of equipment together.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor* /forum/post/21956671
> 
> 
> That is the most invisible way! I'd also suggest the Xantech designer emitters. They are extremely small, and with some careful cable routing, are almost invisible... The new "pro" designer emitter is even made to be attached and dressed - with a pigtail cable to make it easier to do...
> 
> 
> Jeff



Wow, I never new those existed. Very cool!


The link to them:
http://www.xantech.com/Infrared/Infr...tters/283DPRO/


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/21963949
> 
> 
> Considered it, but changing equipment and moving them around becomes hard. The emitters I have are 4 branching off from one wire, so it essentially tethers 4 pieces of equipment together.



yeah I'm using a 36U rack with everything mounted, so I don't swap out gear that often, really.. and I use an IR repeater with 8 discrete heads, so it works out. Technically I can just leave the screws out of the sides of the gear, since each component is strapped to teh shelf it's on, then held in place additionally with a backstop to prevent it from moving.

If you're swapping out gear more often, you'd be better off with the custom emitters.


----------



## tbraden32

Can anyone suggest a pull rack that will not cost a bundle! Or maybe DIY option?


----------



## ghostee

Built this pull out rack on wheels from birch plywood and poplar 1x2 and 1x3.


Little nook area that I'm recessing the rack into:











Rack before paint:










Back of the rack:











And the end result:


----------



## GlassWolf

If you want one like the Sanus with the rollers under it on a track so it slides out and back into a pre-cut hole in the wall, Sanus does have a nice modular system.

Personally I used their Foundations series 36U rack that came pre-assembled, with the glass door on the front, shelving, blanking plates, etc.. and sits on casters, so it can be rolled out and back into place as needed.

Got that one on-line for under $800, with free shipping via trucking freight service, which is about half or less than a similar Middle Atlantic rack with the same options applied would cost (side and back panels, locking panels, glass door, 8 vented shelves in a variety from 1U to 3U, and blanking plates)


pics shown about 1 page back, I believe.


----------



## ten8yp

looks nice ghostee! I love the white... but how are you dealing with component heat output? It looks like it would trap a lot of heat...


----------



## tbraden32




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you want one like the Sanus with the rollers under it on a track so it slides out and back into a pre-cut hole in the wall, Sanus does have a nice modular system.
> 
> Personally I used their Foundations series 36U rack that came pre-assembled, with the glass door on the front, shelving, blanking plates, etc.. and sits on casters, so it can be rolled out and back into place as needed.
> 
> Got that one on-line for under $800, with free shipping via trucking freight service, which is about half or less than a similar Middle Atlantic rack with the same options applied would cost (side and back panels, locking panels, glass door, 8 vented shelves in a variety from 1U to 3U, and blanking plates)
> 
> 
> pics shown about 1 page back, I believe.



This might work. I only need maybe half that size of a rack. Will it pull out over carpet?


What online site did you get yours from? Did it come with custom face plates too?


----------



## tbraden32




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ghostee* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Built this pull out rack on wheels from birch plywood and poplar 1x2 and 1x3.
> 
> 
> Little nook area that I'm recessing the rack into:
> 
> 
> Rack before paint:
> 
> 
> Back of the rack:
> 
> 
> And the end result:



Only concern with the rollers is I might have carpet in front of it. Where do you have it venting too, or not?


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbraden32* /forum/post/21966705
> 
> 
> This might work. I only need maybe half that size of a rack. Will it pull out over carpet?
> 
> 
> What online site did you get yours from? Did it come with custom face plates too?



Sanus has two smaller sizes as well. 27U and a yet smaller one. Maybe one will fit your needs.

See Sanus.com and go to "racks" and the "foundations" line to see them, and what they come with.

The wheels on it are fairly large, so it should go over anyhting but the deepest plush carpet without any problem if the weight isn't an issueonce it's loaded down.


----------



## Neurorad

I see several new Sanus racks on ebay, fwiw.


----------



## wkearney99

I'm guessing it might be good to break off the conversations out to another thread? Leaving this one just for the 'show me' posts?


As for racks and carpets, it's not like you're going to be rolling the rack in and out all that often. At least you shouldn't be, as you'd be putting a lot of repeated stress on the cabling attached to it. Generally a bad plan for anything that goes straight into the wall (as in, without patch cords and wall plates).


----------



## ghostee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ten8yp* /forum/post/21966014
> 
> 
> looks nice ghostee! I love the white... but how are you dealing with component heat output? It looks like it would trap a lot of heat...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbraden32* /forum/post/21966712
> 
> 
> Only concern with the rollers is I might have carpet in front of it. Where do you have it venting too, or not?



Carpet wouldn't be a problem with a nice set of casters (wheels), but I agree that it wouldn't get pulled out all that often after the initial setup.


Right now I have no added ventilation. The back of the rack is open which allows some air movement. I have a temperature probe in there and while my room is 71, the rack is 83. If heat becomes an issue I'll put a vent in there and maybe a fan, but I don't think 83 is all that bad for now.


----------



## imprez25

Okay, so mine isn't fancy or very sophisticated, but I think it look fairly good. I started with this:

__
https://flic.kr/p/6984494886
​ 
__
https://flic.kr/p/6984494886
​ by imprez25 , on Flickr


and ended with this:

__
https://flic.kr/p/7139065673
​ 
__
https://flic.kr/p/7139065673
​ by imprez25 , on Flickr


it's just a basic shelf, nothing slides, no cooling fans, no server rack, and there is no major wire management system. It does the job though.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imprez25* /forum/post/21979696
> 
> 
> Okay, so mine isn't fancy or very sophisticated, but I think it look fairly good. I started with this:
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/7139065673
> ​ by imprez25 , on Flickr
> 
> 
> it's just a basic shelf, nothing slides, no cooling fans, no server rack, and there is no major wire management system. It does the job though.



Looks great and gets the job done. At a lot less then a server rack! Congrads


----------



## Bryceo

Looked ova every post checked out every picture in this thread takeing in to consideration I've decided I'm goin to design my own rack


----------



## Bryceo

This thread is hopeless with out pictures updates!


----------



## damienbuckley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imprez25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, so mine isn't fancy or very sophisticated, but I think it look fairly good. I started with this:
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/6984494886
> ​ by imprez25 , on Flickr
> 
> 
> and ended with this:
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/7139065673
> ​ by imprez25 , on Flickr
> 
> 
> it's just a basic shelf, nothing slides, no cooling fans, no server rack, and there is no major wire management system. It does the job though.



Nice mate. Really clean job. Love the joinery, very classy.


----------



## GlassWolf


This is my bedroom, where I have my 2-channel listening set-up

 



 

This is the hand-made DIY audio rack I built.  The rack is made from tung-oiled spalted maple, with a red cedar rear panel, utilizing holes for cable management.  The shelves are made of 1/4" tinted tempered glass.  I had a local glass and paint shop cut the glass shelves to match some schematics I drew up when I designed the rack.  It's based on one I think I saw by Bell'O years ago, but I refused to shell out $500+ for theirs, so I made my own, with measurements I came up with to fit pretty much anything I could dream up, including 300+ CD jukeboxes and amplifiers.


----------



## damienbuckley

Rack update



Attachment 248344 



Attachment 248345 



Attachment 248346


----------



## sonic30101

Everyone loves looking at a nice set of racks. This is an monstrous 24 input 32 output HDMI matrix crestron install, with the works. 5 Virtual LAN networks, Movie servers, lighting, tv lifts, pool and shade control, 60+ klipsch/genelec speakers.


----------



## sonic30101




----------



## sonic30101




----------



## Vic C

Heres the final update since completing my theater in December / January.


A close up of the rack with new QSCCX302 and Yamaha Power amps.......


----------



## Bryceo

Well done mate looks great


----------



## mystic_sniper28

i like the bling..


nice looking racks there sonic and bryceo wish I had the cash to get mine started..


----------



## GlassWolf

I updated my images, now that I have things pretty much where they're going to stay.

Updated images here.


----------



## Handz 57

Man, you guys have had quality work done on your racks...


Anyway, I've been stalking this site forever, doing research on projectors, receivers, speakers, and what not. We just moved to a new house that has a finished basement. I've already got a projector set up and the speakers wired. The only thing holding the room back, is that I've got everything sitting on a plastic storage shelf (projector included) and it looks horrible. I plan on making my own rack using some track and building my own wall to enclose it in. I thought that since most of my equipment is black, that a white trimmed set-up wouldn't look right, but you guys with the white trim have thankfully proven me wrong. Now I can keep the white trim that already came with the basement.


I'm sure I will have a lot of questions in the next few months since this is my first time dealing with any kind of rack system. I've been looking around and doing some pricing and the one thing that seemed ridiculous to me is the price of a rack mount dvd shelf. Are they all really 80 bucks or more? It's not like it has to be heavy duty, since dvd's don't weigh very much. Am I missing some that are out there for a reasonable price or does anybody have any alternate solutions? I'm going to have some extra space in my 7 ft rack so I figured I'd fill it in with games and movies but not at that price. I guess I could always figure out a way to build one...


----------



## Handz 57

Anybody have any solutions for a rackmount dvd shelf? The ones out there seem to cost an arm and a leg (at least 75 bucks)... Was looking to build a 7ft rack and will have room to spare, so I figured instead of just putting up blank panels, I'd add storage for dvd/movies...


----------



## Neurorad

sonic30101, nice work! Colored cables are way underrated, they make a big difference visually.


Handz 57, look for rack mount drawers and CD/DVD shelves on ebay.


----------



## GlassWolf

If I had a whole wall, I'd just do a built-in and make it all drywalled book/DVD shelving. You could make shelves for vinyl, CD/DVD, and books if you wish.


----------



## IGO2XS

A majority of the racks are occupied by the Genelec Amps.


----------



## Bryceo

need help to design my rack where should i mount componets in the rack and should i run cooling fans for every thing or just one or 2 pushing air in and one sucking air out?


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bryceo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1410#post_22134608
> 
> 
> need help to design my rack where should i mount componets in the rack and should i run cooling fans for every thing or just one or 2 pushing air in and one sucking air out?



If you have anenclosed rack like mine, I'm put the amplifier(s) at the top. If you don't use amps, put the AVR at the top, and if you want cooling fans, you can put a pair at the top and at the bottom in a push-pull setup, venting hot air at the top and drawing cool air in below. Some racks like MA and Sanus have 3U fan mounting plates at the top and bottom of the rack so youdon't have to take up component space with fans.


----------



## Plasmakris

Have you got any pics of the sanus rack mounted components.(Front & Back).


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Plasmakris*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22137881
> 
> 
> Have you got any pics of the sanus rack mounted components.(Front & Back).



sent them in PM.


----------



## Plasmakris

Thanks for the pics.

Im looking into getting a rack from Pro Audio Stash.co.uk.

Please take a look.


----------



## Dirac

GlassWolf: Can't quite tell from the pics--do you have custom faceplates for your components, or do the shelves adjust such that there isn't much gap in between each component and the blanking plate/adjacent shelf? Did you get away with not adding too many accessories from what came with the rack? It looks really good.


I'm looking at the Sanus CFR2127 and wondering how I might set it up so I have good airflow and there are no "short circuits" in the convection. Do the Middle Atlantic RSH plates work in these Sanus racks? And I may have missed it (have been looking at lots of racks), but do you have any fans in there and if so, how are they set up?


----------



## wkearney99

Rack faceplates are pretty generic, that's sort of the point of rack mount standards. The finishes can differ between vendors, of course, but sizes are going to be standard.


From that one picture I can see gaps between some of the gear. I can see what looks to be dust on the tops of two components.


Unless you're planning on stuffing the rack chock-full of gear I'm not sure I'd get too worried about interrupting convection. Heat will rise, you just want to avoid putting something that's going to crank out a lot of it from being directly under something that will suffer from it. Or leave some space to allow the heat to dissipate somewhat.


----------



## GlassWolf

I have the CFR2136. I just used what came with the rack, nothing added except the 1U power conditioner from Sanus.

The blank plates are included, and I diid not modify them. There are some gaps, but I wasn't that worried about it. If I wanted everything flush mounted, I'd order some additional blanking plates, and cut openings in them for each component, and place them over top of the shelves, but I didn't really feel like going through the effort for something that'll be hidden most of the time anyway.


If you want cooling, just get the EcoSystem controller from Sanus that gives you 5V and 12V outputs, then use their 3U silent fan plates. place one in the bottom of the case, and one at the top controlled by the EcoSystem controller. That would also allow for work lights and rack lights to be controlled as well. You can download a schematic of the Sanus racks from their website at sanus.com

The rack has a 3U opening in the back that can be put at the top or bottom of the case (mine is at the bottom where the speaker cables are going out) as well as a 3U opening in the top of the rack case, and one in the bottom. This, in addition to having 36U worth of space in the front for fan plates gives plenty of cooling options.


3U opening at bottom rear of rack. This 3U opening plate can be relocated to the top of the rear as well.










This is the Sanus power conditioner that displays voltage, current draw, etc, and has two 3-LED pull-out lights and 11 outlets in the back as well as one switched outlet in front










both side panels and the rear panel are removable, without the need for any tools. the rear panel also locks, and locks for the side panels as well are optional. The front door can be removed with two slide pins, after removing the grounding strap, and can be reversed to open from the opposite side, or just left off entirely. The front door latch also locks.










again, sorry for the mess of cables. This setup is temporary, and everything is coming back out when I get the money together to do some remodeling and put this rack in the wall, and drywall and frame up around it. This is also going to require me to do a lot of re-wiring in the room for the speaker plates etc so I just have this set up for now so it 'works.'


----------



## Plasmakris

Can someone tell me if the faceplates are just faceplates or do they come part of the shelf.

I don't want to buy shelves later to find out that the faceplates are part of the shelf.

Thanks


----------



## BEF-NO

Here are pictures of my rack, I have a bench for common components and a rack of power amplifiers.


You can read more about my home Thater here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416004/bef-from-norway-and-my-avworld-diy-system-with-44-000-watt#post_22140619


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Plasmakris*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22140745
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me if the faceplates are just faceplates or do they come part of the shelf.
> 
> I don't want to buy shelves later to find out that the faceplates are part of the shelf.
> 
> Thanks



the blanking plates are just cover plates to cover spaces not filled by the shelves. They are not connected, nor does one support the other in any way.

You can get the ventilated shelves in any size from 1U to 4U, blanking/cover plates in the same sizes, and Sanus also offers sliding drawers in, I believe, 3U and 4O that can hold DVDs and CDs, spare cables, etc...

Their website, sanus.com under "racks" has a whole list of accessories and options.


----------



## Plasmakris

Hi Glasswolf,

Thanks for the reply.

On the Middle Atlantic website you can get faceplates for the xbox slim ect.

Are these part of the shelf or are they separate.


----------



## GlassWolf

If you're looking at the RSH custom shelves, I believe you're buying the whole shelf and plate together.
http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/rshcus2.htm


----------



## Dirac

Thanks for the additional pictures, GlassWolf! Very helpful.


I have a Marantz SR8001 AVR that takes a 5U RSH shelf/faceplate. Would that AVR cause a problem on the included Sanus 3U ventilated shelf? It looks like your Adcom amp is on a 2U shelf so it looks OK, but I wanted to ask.


----------



## Bryceo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BEF-NO*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22141076
> 
> 
> Here are pictures of my rack, I have a bench for common components and a rack of power amplifiers.
> 
> You can read more about my home Thater here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416004/bef-from-norway-and-my-avworld-diy-system-with-44-000-watt#post_22140619


Looking good mate


----------



## GlassWolf

My Adcom GFA-555II is on a 3U shelf, designed to support 50lbs if I recall. Your AVR without the custom face plate would be a 4U shelf unit I believe, but to surround the AVR and make it flush in the blanking plate you need that extra 1U.

IU noticed this when I looked at their specs for a few of my other items in my rack:

Toshiba W808 S-VHS = 3U

DirecTV HR24 DVR = 2U

Panasonic DMP-DB55K BD player = 2U

those specs are all +1U over the space they require in my rack now, without a flush mount plate surrounding their face plates. I may get some for those 3 items, but my LD player, CD carousel, tape deck, amp, and AVR are all nearly the width of the rack, and are nearlr the proper height to fill in the opening without a blanking plate cut to go around them and take more space. Pluse, the Adcom has it's own rack mount flanges I picked up from eBay so those I'm jsut going to leave on the shelves by themselves.

Things like an Xbox though, I can see wanting to fill in the gaps!


----------



## Bryceo

Thank you kindly I've decied I'll keep my origanl wall unit and just rack all my gear up in that

And add some cooling fans to that to drag out the hot air

??


----------



## Plasmakris

Can someone help me please.

I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.

But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?

Thanks


----------



## sebberry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Plasmakris*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22173568
> 
> 
> Can someone help me please.
> 
> I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.
> 
> But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?
> 
> Thanks



No, you can't route HDMI over Cat5 signals through your network switch.

The Home A/V Distribution forum might have more information about this


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sebberry*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22173581
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Plasmakris*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22173568
> 
> 
> Can someone help me please.
> 
> I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.
> 
> But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you can't route HDMI over Cat5 signals through your network switch.
> 
> The Home A/V Distribution forum might have more information about this
Click to expand...


you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms


----------



## Plasmakris




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22174090
> 
> 
> you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms



Is the HDBase any good as i have never sent a signal over cat 5 and it is not cheap either.Is it HDMI quality ?

Is there another way of sending picture over 20 meters away apart from costly hdmi ?


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Plasmakris*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22174313
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22174090
> 
> 
> you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the HDBase any good as i have never sent a signal over cat 5 and it is not cheap either.Is it HDMI quality ?
> 
> Is there another way of sending picture over 20 meters away apart from costly hdmi ?
Click to expand...


I am using several HDbase baluns and they work quite well: yes they are expensive


other lesser options are non HDbase HDMI baluns or component video: not sure you would be satisfied with either alternative


----------



## ten8yp

My ULTRA CHEAP DIY Rack -


-Shelves are made of plywood left over other projects

-black Glidden Eggshell Interior latex paint used was left at the house when I bought it in Jan.

-most moldings were left over from other projects

-so far, from what I can tell there's no need for a fan or cooling b/c of the racks open space back and its in a very well air-conditioned basement



Total Cost making the rack so far: approx $50 after tax (12 shelf brackets @ $2.88 a piece + 1 piece molding @ $8.98)

Add another $20-$30 for metal for the faceplates and hardware for wire hiding


Preliminary pics... still need to make custom faceplates and organize wires. I could tell you how I am going to do it but I dont want to ruin talking about my future pics and/or give you guys any preconceived notions about how I plan to. I'm also thinking about putting a glass door of some kind on it as long as it is completely non-reflective. Opinions on glass doors???


Sorry for the ****** PQ


----------



## tbraden32

Looking good.


----------



## BEF-NO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bryceo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1400_100#post_22145239
> 
> 
> Looking good mate


Thank you!


----------



## corock

  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


My home theatre Middle Atlantic rack


From top to bottom:

Furman PL-Plus DMC power conditioner

ProCool 4 fan rack

PS3 Slim

USB patch panel

Xbox 360

Oppo BDP-93

Media holder

Marantz AV7005

1U drawer

4U drawer

Furman PL-Plus DMC power conditioner

Emotiva XPA 3

Emotiva XPA 2


Back of the rack includes:

Behringer EP4000 (powers DIY sub in another part of the house)

URC MRF-350 base station

URC RFX-250 RF sensor

Dynex gigabit ethernet switch

4 port powered USB hub (x2)

USB patch panel

Digi Media 4 port HDMI distribution amplifier

Bell HD satellite receiver

WD 1 terabyte HD

Hammond rackmount power strip


----------



## 49Merc

*I certainly will not said Veronica Rabbit.*


----------



## Kressilac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kezug*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/60#post_12070344
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swifty7;10527924*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every time I review this thread for rack ideas, I cant help but stop and stare at these racks. If I am not careful, I will be building boobies on my wall instead of a system rack!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if these girls even know that they have been the higlight of a stickied thread on this forum? Original post was in 2007.
Click to expand...


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *corock*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22244882


Is that the MA 26" deep Slim5, 5-43-26?


----------



## corock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22262470
> 
> 
> Is that the MA 26" deep Slim5, 5-43-26?



Yes, that's the rack


----------



## wuudogg

These look great. Where did you get your faceplates? I'm about to fill mine up.


----------



## corock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wuudogg*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22320330
> 
> 
> These look great. Where did you get your faceplates? I'm about to fill mine up.



They're all Middle Atlantic.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wuudogg*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22320330
> 
> 
> These look great. Where did you get your faceplates? I'm about to fill mine up.



Those are typical, what looks to be 2-gang cable drop plates. You can get those on parts-express.com or amazon.com for a couple bucks each. They are also reversable, so you can put the drop inside the wall or outside, depending on if it's an intake or outlet plate.


I use one behind my plasma TV to take cables into the wall, and one outlet at the AV rack myself.


----------



## the-pred

Guys in my old house I was using the Startech 36U Knock Down. Got it for around $200. Worked great. Sold my house and left it there. I am just wondering if there was a rack out there still at that price. I I can fidn is $500 and up..


----------



## Neurorad

Bare bones MA Slim 5 is a good option, for a RTA rack shipped flat.


Other options include FatCat, Royal Racks, SnapAV, Lowell, and used eBay. I think those companies all offer a basic rack. The cost adds up with sides, doors, casters, and tops.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22364054
> 
> 
> Bare bones MA Slim 5 is a good option, for a RTA rack shipped flat.
> 
> Other options include FatCat, Royal Racks, SnapAV, Lowell, and used eBay. I think those companies all offer a basic rack. The cost adds up with sides, doors, casters, and tops.



actually, FatCat Precision Racking Solutions is now Forge.


----------



## Neurorad

Yeah, couldn't remember the new name. I figured Google would get him there.


I appreciate the 24" depth of the SnapAV rack. MA Slim 5 is 20 or 26".


I'll definitely be looking at racks at CEDIA.


----------



## Neurorad

Omnimount RE42 looks nice.

http://www.omnimount.com/products/rack_systems_and_carts/rack_systems/re42/ 


Ships with a bunch of shelves, sides, fan top, front and rear doors, and caster base.


Edit - front.door is glass, includes leveling feet and lots of blank plates too


----------



## BllDo

That is an interesting find. It would be nice if they had something between the 27 and 42. My ceiling heights can't quite accommodate a 42.


----------



## Neurorad

On my current rack, I spent an incredible amount of time on cable management, using lacing bars, Velcro, and zip ties. I think I'll be exploring more rack mount slotted wiring duct options for the next build.


----------



## Neurorad

Spent a few hours shopping for racks at CEDIA.


1. All of the skeleton racks are similar.


2. Lowell and Middle Atlantic racks are made in the US. Peerless, Omnimount, Sanus, Chief, and SnapAV racks are from China.


3. Middle Atlantic makes the best high end racks, with exceptional configurabilty. The design details are outstanding.


4. I'll most probably choose Lowell, more affordable than MA for a basic rack.


Although I have bought MA lacer bars for my current rack, and will re-use them, I really liked the 'stackable' Lowell lacer bars.


MA has some options for rack mount slotted wiring duct/finger channel.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

My opinion don't matter what you use and deploy as a racking solution, just as long you got room to breath and circulate air to keep things cool everything should be fine..


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22383211
> 
> 
> My opinion don't matter what you use and deploy as a racking solution, just as long you got room to breath and circulate air to keep things cool everything should be fine..



Yes, that of course is the minimum. Some people are more...detail oriented, and spend a lot of time weighing additional considerations - country of origin, how solidly a rack is built, the people that made it, the people that sell it, available depths, room for a third set of vertical rack rails, fixed vs removable sides, glass or plexi door options, locks, exposed casters, 'fine floor casters', rear rack rails, space for cable management on the sides, room for rear power strips, fan top options, and of course price.


The MA BGR Series rack is the best stand alone rack made, hands down, with the most available features. If I had unlimited funds, I'd choose that, no question. I appreciate the details.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

I say you buy what you can afford whether it is cheap or expensive whether MA racks, midatlantic rack or xyz rack solution, people will make and buy rack to their budgetary requirements..


----------



## Neurorad

A dirt cheap used server rack served my needs very well, for a few years, in my mechanical room, until I had a sub panel installed. Now space and electrical codes are an issue.


Now I need a smaller rack, and after considering all options, I feel that Lowell makes a great rack to fit my needs and budgetary requirements.


I'm pretty sick of Chinese-made ****, in my life, and I want to pay more for better quality. Not much more, but more.


----------



## JamesVG81

Added a new radiator to the bottom of my rack yesterday to cool my HTPC/Gamming rig. Let me know what you think. Those a 9x140mm fans


----------



## Tedd

spill the details.....


----------



## JamesVG81

Starting from the top down, 1500va battery backup, Yamaha RX-V2010, Samsung DVR, Sony SACD player, HTPC, Watercool MO-RA3 9x140mm Pro Radiator. HTPC/Gamming rig is a Ivy Bridge 3570k @ 4.7ghz, 7970 @1200 gpu and 1600 memory, 7TB of hard drive space for blu-rays(soon to add more space), 128gig SSD drive, blu-ray drive. Stuff you can't see in the back, Doc 3 modem, 8 port gig switch, wireless N router, anougher 1500va battery back up, and a mess of wires. All feeding my theater with a optomia HD20 and 120 inch screen and my desk. Just sold my 2560x1600 monitor, switching over to the new Asus 144hz monitor for gamming.


----------



## ten8yp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *corock*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1440#post_22244882



Thanks for posting right after me and making my rack look like ****... now tell everyone approx. how much you have into it lol...


God would I love to have an XPA 2 & 3 at the bottom of my rack


----------



## mystic_sniper28

when i get my rack my guess invested gear


denon 2113

sony 370

toshiba

ps2

ps3

xbox

xbox 360

av switch


$5,000 all up


likely 2k on rack


so total guess 7k


----------



## lotoole

Racking is from a company called Pro Audio Stash. I had some serious space constraints so some cutting down was required to make it fit. I've added a photo of what it looked like before so you can see what i mean!
  
 
 
Onkyo Bluray player - BDSP809
Popcorn Hour A200 media player
Apple TV (gen2)
Xbox
Humax 1TB FoxSAT HDR
JVC - HR-DVS1- DV/SVHS Player
Synology 16TB NAS Drive DS1812+
Netgear network switch x2
Apple airport extreme
Roku RAVIR
Controlled via IPad using Roomie Remote App with Global Cache ITach WF2IR and IP2IR


----------



## idratherbeflying




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotoole*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22444143
> 
> 
> Racking is from a company called Pro Audio Stash. I had some serious space constraints so some cutting down was required to make it fit. I've added a photo of what it looked like before so you can see what i mean!



Lotoole, drooling over your Synology NAS. How are you liking it? Is it about 4RU?



And to Neurorad above, I feel your pain on the @#% Chinese stuff. Some local dealer recommended SnapAV. I saw it and ran.


I went with an MA dealer after a recommendation on this forum. Folks are right though, it does add up fast: WR-37-32, custom trim plates, rear panel, cooling system, smoked plexi door, cable management, sending new equipment for MA for measuring, blah, blah = $3500+ and climbing as I swap out items. I never should have used Quicken to track it because it stings a bit seeing that number; could have bought a used car for that cash! The MA stuff will last my lifetime though, no car will. Absolutely excellent quality and their service is outstanding. I've called them in the past for the most random replacement parts (electrical knockout panel pieces) and they actually followed through with researching it and calling me with part numbers for my dealer. I'd say go MA if you're on the fence.


----------



## lotoole

idratherbeflying - The synology drive is excellent, especially with Plex media server built in. I'm about half full at the moment!


----------



## Neurorad

I've been eyeing the Synology DS413 myself, just hit the shelves.


----------



## nebrunner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesVG81*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22398395
> 
> 
> Added a new radiator to the bottom of my rack yesterday to cool my HTPC/Gamming rig. Let me know what you think. Those a 9x140mm fans




My rack is going to be similar setup, minus the crazy number of fans! All those fans are pulling cool air in? Would it work better to have them on the back top pushing hot air out?


What kind of thinking did you do when it came to what equipment to put at what levels? Ease of use? Heat concerns? I see your receiver is at the top I figured that should be more mid to lower to make it easier to get too, and also to keep all the heat from passing up through it. My Onkyo gets pretty hot on its own.


----------



## Andrew911tt

I don't have a rack but i just finished my closet.


After being in my house for about 3 years and many different phases I think I am finally done with my structural wiring closet. The house was built in 1972 and is 1,089 sqft. This is in the office (center-ish part of the house) and started with a blank wall in the closet with no cables run anywhere. My lovely wife and I ran every cable up the wall and through the attic.


I have at least one Directv line, one Cable TV line, and 2 Cat 6 runs to each room.


I have the power panel (bottom right) run to the outlet underneath and then plug that into a UPS so if the power goes out I can run for at least an hour or longer if i turn some stuff off.


----------



## Brent A

^^^

Very nice.

Do you know if mounting the wireless router inside a metal box like that will reduce it's signal strength?


----------



## Andrew911tt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brent A*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22452480
> 
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> Do you know if mounting the wireless router inside a metal box like that will reduce it's signal strength?



I have a wireless access point another place in the house that I use most of the time. But when I get home and put the metal cover(arrives today) on it I am expecting it to become a faraday cage.


----------



## Brent A

I guess that is to be expected; it sure looks nice, clean, and neat organized like that though.


----------



## Andrew911tt

Turns out its not to bad. I have only dropped one bar


----------



## Brent A

Interesting, thanks for checking. I think I may have to do a little experimenting with my router and some metal boxes to see what I can get away with.


----------



## Neurorad

If you can position the wireless device near the top (or bottom) of a steel enclosure, the antenna can usually be positioned outside, either behind drywall if flush mount or visible if surface mount.

 


Many plastic enclosures available, too. My Radio RA2 Main Repeater is located in a plastic enclosure.


----------



## Brady84

Middle Atlantic 37u Slim 5 series frame.

Qty 2: 4 point zero space shelves

qty 8: 2u vented shelves

Very happy with the quality and overall "experience" with the rack.


The beginning:
 


The Middle:
 


End Result:


----------



## OPPIZ

Nice Job!


----------



## MikeRich

Does anyone know if the MA Slim 5 shelves fit regular sever racks? I have a 42U rack and I like the MA shelves but I am not sure if they fit or are custom fit for their racks.


----------



## LeBon

They are standard 19 in. rack mount panels and shelves, so they should fit any standard 19 in. rack.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeRich*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22647647
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the MA Slim 5 shelves fit regular sever racks? I have a 42U rack and I like the MA shelves but I am not sure if they fit or are custom fit for their racks.


If you mean their faceplates then they'd fit any regular rack. But from the looks of their shelves I would not just assume they'd work. At least one of their slim shelves is designed to mount inside the rack posts, connected at the sides, NOT at the front as would standard rack shelves. This side mounting would require a pretty specific spacing (both width and depth) between all four of the posts. I've run into issues where the inside of the posts wasn't consistent from one rack brand to another. I don't know if there's "supposed to be" a standard spacing there or not. Nor do I know what the slim shelves expect for their width.


This isn't to say you "can't" make them work, but I'd start by comparing their inside rack post measurements with whatever setup you've got now.


----------



## tcrote5516

I've mixed and matched a lot of different componenets. They all will bolt up however the spacing can be different leaving you a small 1/4" gap between certain components. Here's mine (still under construction). Sorry for the crap cell phone quality...I'm lazy.


----------



## MikeRich

Thanks for the feedback. I've rescued a server rack and need to get some shelves. All I have is the rack, no doors, panels or anything.

I've seen 2 types of screws for server racks, any way to quickly tell what type go with what rack?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22649715
> 
> 
> If you mean their faceplates then they'd fit any regular rack. But from the looks of their shelves I would not just assume they'd work. At least one of their slim shelves is designed to mount inside the rack posts, connected at the sides, NOT at the front as would standard rack shelves. This side mounting would require a pretty specific spacing (both width and depth) between all four of the posts. I've run into issues where the inside of the posts wasn't consistent from one rack brand to another. I don't know if there's "supposed to be" a standard spacing there or not. Nor do I know what the slim shelves expect for their width.
> 
> This isn't to say you "can't" make them work, but I'd start by comparing their inside rack post measurements with whatever setup you've got now.


----------



## LeBon

"Standard" rack screws are 10-32 truss-head machine screws. Some rack rails are drilled and tapped for these screws. Another common type of rail has square holes, into which you snap clip nuts as needed to receive the rack screws.


----------



## OzzieP

I have a Middle Atlantic Slim 5 Series that sits on carpet with the standard adjustable screw legs.

Any suggestions for me to be able to mount this on some sort of track that would allow me to slide it out a little easier?


I do not have much space above the rack, I am afraid some of the wheels middle atlantic has for the slim 5 will make it

to tall for its location, so I need a low profile way of making it slide out easier.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OzzieP*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22671747
> 
> 
> I have a Middle Atlantic Slim 5 Series that sits on carpet with the standard adjustable screw legs.
> 
> Any suggestions for me to be able to mount this on some sort of track that would allow me to slide it out a little easier?
> 
> I do not have much space above the rack, I am afraid some of the wheels middle atlantic has for the slim 5 will make it
> 
> to tall for its location, so I need a low profile way of making it slide out easier.



Before I switched to a rack with casters, I placed some of those furniture moving pucks under the legs of my rack, which did make it possible to pull the rack out on carpet. Just have to watch the weight distribution, you don't want to put that load into motion and have it tip...

 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100178571/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=furniture+moving&storeId=10051#.UMFVVeTAfNo 


Jeff


----------



## BlueDude

Rack:
 


Rear:
 


Closet:
 


Rack rail is attached on each side of a 19 1/8" aperture from the media room to the equipment closet, recessed a few inches from the room side. It was framed in similar to a window, with cutouts in the foot to accommodate the rail extending below the aperture. The closet is accessed by lockable double doors in the garage. The closet also has all the home run house wiring for phone, ethernet and coax. Thermal control is via a simple spring-type thermostat activating a low noise bathroom fan in the ceiling, with cooler ambient air drawn through vents in the rack. The closet has work lighting via a kitchen counter type fluorescent fixture mounted above the door frame. Simple, inexpensive and effective.


----------



## wkearney99

One tip, clean up the wiring. Not just because it looks nice. When the rack has been there for several years you'll appreciate being able to clean the dust off everything without having stuff come loose. Because, since it's been years, you won't readily recall what was connected to where, and why. If they're bunched together in relatively firm bundles they'll help withstand being accidentally moved or disconnected. Zip ties are cheap, cheaper than your time and frustration figuring out what's wrong...


----------



## BlueDude

Believe it or not, this is after cleaning up the wiring. I can't get the hang of getting the wiring gracefully from the home run box on the left to the rack on the right. And there are several boxes (splitters, switches, aux fans, etc) in the rack itself that aren't rack mounted and just hang out sloppily where they're needed. Speaker wire (in white) and power are routed pretty cleanly though. Both of those go to the right, in separate bundles to cut down on interference. The interconnects need to be shortened - that's a work in progress. Suggestions are welcome!


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22673550
> 
> 
> One tip, clean up the wiring. Not just because it looks nice. When the rack has been there for several years you'll appreciate being able to clean the dust off everything without having stuff come loose. Because, since it's been years, you won't readily recall what was connected to where, and why. If they're bunched together in relatively firm bundles they'll help withstand being accidentally moved or disconnected. Zip ties are cheap, cheaper than your time and frustration figuring out what's wrong...



Good point. I prefer a roll of Velcro though. Can just cut pieces to required length and can pull type without pinching cables like tie-wraps. makes it quicker to add ne cables too - don't need to get a new piece of Velcro unless bundle got substantially bigger


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlueDude*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22674187
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, this is after cleaning up the wiring. I can't get the hang of getting the wiring gracefully from the home run box on the left to the rack on the right. And there are several boxes (splitters, switches, aux fans, etc) in the rack itself that aren't rack mounted and just hang out sloppily where they're needed. Speaker wire (in white) and power are routed pretty cleanly though. Both of those go to the right, in separate bundles to cut down on interference. The interconnects need to be shortened - that's a work in progress. Suggestions are welcome!



You could attach a wooden or metal strip on the wall (from left, under switch to rack) and either use hooks, tie wraps or Velcro to attach all the cables to it. Same at bottom for power cords. The lack of rear posts means you can't really add lacing bars (the really key to neatness, keeping cables in place and relieving the strain on them). Before I had lacing bars, I drilled holes in the rears of the shelves and used tie wraps, so the shelf became a lacing bar (sort of)


----------



## wkearney99

Well, don't discount the risks of damaging the cables by moving them too much. Especially anything that might go straight into a wall. Velcro might seem like a good idea until you consider that adding a cable requires loosening all the other ones. As opposed to just lacing in a new zip tie to the existing bundle. Sure, it gets messier over time, and does consume zip ties, but better that than cable breaks or connector failures that are a pain in the butt to track down. There's probably a happy point somewhere in-between.


----------



## oakleyman

If anybody lives near Los Angeles here is a killer deal on a middle atlantic rack http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/ele/3458328504.html


----------



## purbeast

I know this thread is huge and there may be some pics in here, and I'm going to search, but I was wondering if anyone made a DIY rack with one of these wall track things:

http://www.homedepot.com/Storage-Organization-Shelves-Shelving-Systems-Wall-Mounted-Shelving/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc3ls/R-100194576/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=203147695#.UNE4VXdQCnk 


And then just put the shelf holders and some kind of shelf on them.


I've been contemplating the way I want to rack my equipment, and I think I'm going to go with one of those home-made type racks since it's going to be in a closet and it won't be visible behind the closed doors. I will definitely make it a clean installation, but I don't need a fancy rack that looks cool, although I do love seeing some nice looking racks.


So does anyone have any examples of racks made out of these types of shelving units?


----------



## design1stcode2nd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *purbeast*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22720926
> 
> 
> ...although I do love seeing some nice looking racks.



Don't we all....


I have seen a couple of members in this thread use those or something similar. If mine was not going to be seen at all I'd do something similar.


----------



## scl23enn4m3

Check out the DIY rack thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/990179/diy-a-v-rack 


Many people have done exactly what you described.


----------



## Neurorad

New Middle Atlantic pre-configured rack, the RCS Series. 24" deep, comes with removable sides, back panel, reversible glass front door, shelves, fans, casters, and leveling feet. 18U, 27U, and 42U options. About $1500 MSRP on the 42U.

http://www.bluestardist.com/data/rcs_sellsheet.pdf 

 

 


Looks like a great piece of equipment.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *purbeast*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22720926
> 
> 
> I know this thread is huge and there may be some pics in here, and I'm going to search, but I was wondering if anyone made a DIY rack with one of these wall track things:
> http://www.homedepot.com/Storage-Organization-Shelves-Shelving-Systems-Wall-Mounted-Shelving/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc3ls/R-100194576/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=203147695#.UNE4VXdQCnk


Given how heavy and expensive a lot of AV gear can be, I would not use that sort of shelving. Check the DIY thread for more info.


----------



## design1stcode2nd

Depends on the gear if like me the heaviest thing you have is an AVR then it would be fine. If you have some serious amps then no I’d go with something more robust.


----------



## purbeast




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22724569
> 
> 
> Given how heavy and expensive a lot of AV gear can be, I would not use that sort of shelving. Check the DIY thread for more info.



Well I'm going to have more than 1 shelf. I'm not putting all equipment on 1 shelf or anything.


But if the weight load on those shelves is rated up to around 100lbs or so, and I'm only using like 50lbs or so, I'm not sure why there would be any issue with them.


Also the DIY thread is where I found a link to items used that are very similar to those.


----------



## wkearney99

Don't forget to take into account the load pulling down and out against the rail on the wall. That and the stud itself inside the wall. Weight adds up, it's not just the equipment load on an individual shelf, it's all of them (and the shelving itself). This is one reason why 2-pole racks are bolted into the floor and use center-mounted shelves.


See, the problem is often times by the time something is half-assed to the point of acceptability it's often at (or more than) the cost of gear actually designed to do the job. Just sayin'....


----------



## luvthefloyd

GlassWolf, i am considering the same rack for my system. This would be my first rack system. Did you compare the Sanus to MA? I know the MA is consider the "best" and you pay for it. Do you find you're giving up anything by going with the Sanus? Anybody else who have compared the two i'd welcome their opinion. Thanks.


----------



## riverwolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *purbeast*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22726611
> 
> 
> Well I'm going to have more than 1 shelf. I'm not putting all equipment on 1 shelf or anything.
> 
> But if the weight load on those shelves is rated up to around 100lbs or so, and I'm only using like 50lbs or so, I'm not sure why there would be any issue with them.
> 
> Also the DIY thread is where I found a link to items used that are very similar to those.



Pur, I don't get everyone's concern with the strength of these rack systems. If the aesthetic works for you, then they should be more than capable of handling any typical A/V gear. Now, if you're talking multiple Theta Dreads per shelf it might be a different story.







Just make sure you hit studs with all of the screw holes (I used 3" deck screws myself) and I wouldn't recommend using it in the hanging track configuration mentioned by Closetmaid even though I think they rate it for several hundred pounds. I've used these shelf standards and brackets for multiple storage solutions in my house and workshop without issue. If something like a Closetmaid system fit my A/V rack needs, I wouldn't hesitate to use them and my gear includes both a 50+ pound receiver and a 50ish pound 5 channel Adcom that would be in that rack. As it is, I use a modified TV armoire (you know, the Sauder/Bush type stuff from the '90s)...oh the horror of risking my gear with composite RTA furniture (assembled by my wife, no less...long before she was my wife).











-Brent


----------



## RonDMC

How are all you guys controlling the gear through these racks? via an IR sender/repeater or something? If that is the case can you recommend one that works well, if not I would love to know how. I was always under the impression that those repeaters were really flaky.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RonDMC*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22745080
> 
> 
> How are all you guys controlling the gear through these racks? via an IR sender/repeater or something? If that is the case can you recommend one that works well, if not I would love to know how. I was always under the impression that those repeaters were really flaky.



Yes you are correct. I use a RF remote into a nile IR repeater with the miniflashers put on each device. Even though I am going through two devices, my setup is without issues. It works perfectly every time I use my remote no matter if I am upstairs and downstairs. The remote I use is the Harmoney 900 with the Niles IR repeater system. There are many other ways of doing this that are more expensive as well.


----------



## design1stcode2nd

I'm covering my rack door with GOM and hoping the signals pass through. If they don't I'll have to add an IR repeater as well.


----------



## luvthefloyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22723402
> 
> 
> New Middle Atlantic pre-configured rack, the RCS Series. 24" deep, comes with removable sides, back panel, reversible glass front door, shelves, fans, casters, and leveling feet. 18U, 27U, and 42U options. About $1500 MSRP on the 42U.
> http://www.bluestardist.com/data/rcs_sellsheet.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a great piece of equipment.



Neurorad, is that photo your rack? If so are you going to do a review of it? I'm leaning towards the Mid Atlantic from the Sanus at this point.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luvthefloyd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22756614
> 
> 
> Neurorad, is that photo your rack? If so are you going to do a review of it? I'm leaning towards the Mid Atlantic from the Sanus at this point.



If you have the money Middle Atlantic is the way to go. Excellent quality and many options. The only downside is the price. Try to find a used rack if money is an issue.


----------



## Neurorad

No, not my rack. Pics from MA's Canadian FB page. I don't think that new model is shipping yet, in the U.S.


MA models and options can make your head explode, and there are several models (of the dozens offered) which could be used for any given situation.


The MA Slim 5 is historically most popular for DIYers, a 4 post skeleton rack. If you need a freestanding rack with sides, top, doors, and casters, and want to splurge on MA quality, then the new RCS series is cheaper than a decked out Slim 5. The 24" depth fits neatly between the 20" And 26" Slim 5 racks.


I got a good look at the BGR Series at CEDIA. The epitome of a well designed product. If one had unlimited funds, it is the top of the line.


----------



## holyindian

What are some great rack mountable AM/FM digital tuners with good amount of presets and looks good on the rack.. .


----------



## LeBon

Markertek has several, such as the Tascam:

http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/AM-FM-Tuners-Receivers/Tascam/TU-690.xhtml


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LeBon*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22775434
> 
> 
> Markertek has several, such as the Tascam:
> http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/AM-FM-Tuners-Receivers/Tascam/TU-690.xhtml



Thanks for the link and receivers model number. I guess that one they are selling is for over 230 dollars. Is it worth the value to spend that much for a simple AM/FM tuner?


----------



## LeBon

I don't think so, but to each his own...


Several of the AV Receivers have FM tuners built in -- not sure if any have AM.


----------



## holyindian

Thanks for your reply. I dont know what i was thinking since last night.. had spent atleast 2-3 hrs researching on an AM/FM rack mount tuner... I completely forgot that the Denon 4311CI AVR has a high end AM/FM and HD radio in-inbuilt. I guess i just have to install the antennas. Silly of me











Reason i am going crazy about adding components to the rack is i have a few slots empty, and i want to add something to it.. that isnt expensive and wont break the bank.


I will post the pics once everything is done. Until now i have mounted these on my 44u rack.


Rack Middle Atlantic ERK-4425

Panamax M5400-PM

Middle Atlantic LT-1RA Rackmount Light

Furman D10-PFP (extender)

Tascam CD-A700 CD Player & Cassette Recorder

Dish VIP722K receiver (with MA custom RSH faceplate)

XBox 360 Slim (with MA custom RSH faceplate)
Coolerguys 1U Bracket with (6) 40mm Med Speed CG fans / Programmable LED Controller 

Denon 4311CI AVR

SuperMicro 24 Bay Server Chassis (72 Terabyte)

Belkin Titan 17" Dual-Rail LCD Rack (model no. F1DC101C-US)

HTPC SilverStone CW02 (with MA custom RSH faceplate)

APC SUA1500RMU2 UPS

2U Drawer

Buttkicker BKA-1000-N AMP (with MA Custom RSH faceplate)

Dayton SA-1000 Amp for the THT subwoofer


There is a 1U space between few components that gets hot. The 1u fan is between the xbox and the denon receiver, to blow out hot air from above the denon receiver and below the xbox.

Now the delimma is, i have a 2u space thats vacant, and for now.. i have no clue what to add there. Hence the idea of tuner. but i totally forgot that the denon avr comes with an inbuilt receiver.


Any suggestion guys.


----------



## cshepard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RonDMC*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500#post_22745080
> 
> 
> How are all you guys controlling the gear through these racks? via an IR sender/repeater or something? If that is the case can you recommend one that works well, if not I would love to know how. I was always under the impression that those repeaters were really flaky.



Start with a good repeater system and they aren't flaky at all. Try Xantech. They basically wrote the book on IR distribution.


----------



## Neurorad

Empty 2U - blank plate.


Other ideas - another drawer, keyboard, EQ, DVD shelf, iPod dock, brush grommet pass tbrough for any front cables, LAN switch


----------



## Neurorad

Couple of nicer MA ERK racks in Birmingham, AL. Lots of extras.

http://bham.craigslist.org/ele/3457397621.html


----------



## luvthefloyd

I'm seriously considering the MA preconfigured rack but at 80" tall i'm wondering if it might look odd in my family room/tv room. It would be going in a back corner but still. Any opinions?

RCS4224.jpg 35k .jpg file


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22778183
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I dont know what i was thinking since last night.. had spent atleast 2-3 hrs researching on an AM/FM rack mount tuner... I completely forgot that the Denon 4311CI AVR has a high end AM/FM and HD radio in-inbuilt. I guess i just have to install the antennas. Silly of me



Yeah, by definition, an AV Receiver must have a built-in radio tuner to be called a "receiver"... The term is quite old, hence why you'll see references to "Pre/Pro" components instead, as that would be a Pre-amp and Processor (with no mention of the tuner).










> Quote:
> Reason i am going crazy about adding components to the rack is i have a few slots empty, and i want to add something to it.. that isnt expensive and wont break the bank.
> 
> I will post the pics once everything is done. Until now i have mounted these on my 44u rack.



Highly recommend any one of the Middle Atlantic drawers to fill up that space, assuming you've got adequate blanks for one more component (future) and spacing for airflow. I had a lot of extra space left over in my theater rack, and am so glad I have that drawer for the unused remotes (which get pulled out when things go wonky), a few tools, game controllers, etc.


The other thing I used was the light bar / power strip mounted at the top - the MA pull-out light is also very nice, and comes in handy in a dark theater, too.


Neither suggestion is as cheap as a blank plate, but both are certainly more functional!










Jeff


----------



## Den85

   

Here's mine. Built our own house this past year. That was the easy part as I am a former carpenter. I've always been interested in a/v and technology and decided to go for it this time. System contains Apple TV, hdbaset 4x4 distribution, HTD lync 6, pioneer vsx 1122 avr and 2 bell tv 9241 recievers with localized blu-rays at 3 TVs. Not nearly as complex as 90% of the systems on here but works great for me. Still a couple things to work out but it is functional for now.


----------



## holyindian

Can the trim strips be trimmed/cut? I have a supermicro 24 bay server chasssis, that has on/off button on the rack mount ears, and thats mounted to the last four U's of the rack. i have placed an order for the trim strips last friday, and shud arrive by thursday. I was wondering if i cut off the trims at the bottom just before the supermicro chassis.


----------



## Pain Infliction

I dont see why not. I do not have the trim strips but I dont see why they can't be cut.


----------



## americanflannel

  
 


First attempt at an av rack. I am going to clean up the wiring some and add another patch panel and power strip.

1. Patch Panel (for cat6 ran everywhere in the basement)

2. 24 port gig switch

3. 4x2 matrix switch (my 4x4 doesn't play nice with the projector not sure why yet)

4. FIOS box

5. Receiver

6. PS3 & AppleTV

7. Xbox 360 and wii


----------



## tbraden32

^what kind of rack?


----------



## americanflannel

Monoprice 4ft relay rack built into the recently completed basement, with the back open to the unfinished storage area so I can walk around and wire it up.

I plan to make (get) a door for it made and I need to add a second patch panel in the back and trunk up cat6 cable so I don't have to feed cables from the back to the switch on the front (I bought a bunch of 1ft patch cables to take care of it once the trunks are in place)


----------



## tbraden32

Face plates from there too?


----------



## americanflannel

No the shelves and plates came from Musician's Friend awhile ago.

I stole them from my desk (it has rack rails up both sides)


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22793548
> 
> 
> Can the trim strips be trimmed/cut? I have a supermicro 24 bay server chasssis, that has on/off button on the rack mount ears, and thats mounted to the last four U's of the rack. i have placed an order for the trim strips last friday, and shud arrive by thursday. I was wondering if i cut off the trims at the bottom just before the supermicro chassis.



Assuming you mean the MA metal trim strips? Yes, they come in one length and are cut to length. I used a metal cut-off disc with moderately ok results - the plastic end clips covered the imperfections.


----------



## Neurorad

I think they've been mentioned previously in this thread, but brushed cable pass through plates are available to pass cables from the front of the rack to the rear, cleanly.


----------



## wuudogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Splotto*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/30#post_10527885
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjcritch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My questions are, are the MA plates to fit components such as an Xbox360 easily ordered, do they come with the shelf that the component sits on and is there a way to get them cheaper than $167.41?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> My MA rack didn't come with anything. I had to order the screws and shelves separately.
> 
> 
> As for the plates, or ears as I started calling them - the only plates I am using are those that came with the items themselves. I am not sure you will find MA plates that match the screw holes in your separates.
> 
> 
> You should also consider rear support if you have something really heavy. My AMP weighs about 125 lbs loaded and it wasn't going to be supported by just the plates. I had to add a self-made cross brace at the back to support the unit.
> 
> 
> Splotto
Click to expand...


Any pics or details of your cross bracing?


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22808763
> 
> 
> Assuming you mean the MA metal trim strips? Yes, they come in one length and are cut to length. I used a metal cut-off disc with moderately ok results - the plastic end clips covered the imperfections.



Thanks for the tip. I was able to cut these trims using a dremel tool.. and they came out really well, the caps actually hid the imperfections.










I am almost done with the rack now, waiting for a few 1u blank plates from customavracks. I think it should be here by Monday. Will post pictures by evening.

In the mean time, another quick question.. I am looking for a led/lcd display spectrum analyzer. I know its vintage, but i dont really want any equalization stuff off that. I am already using the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 equalization through my denon 4311ci avr.

This is just for pure eye candy. I like my htpc's vfd spectrum analyzer, but i was wondering if there is a dedicated rack mountable spectrum analyzer that can be attached to an AVR, or something that shows all those dancing leds...









There used to be one Samson D1500, but thats discontinued now, plus its blue color, i'd prefer something in black.


----------



## Neurorad

If it's just eye candy, and you have a HTPC, you could rack mount a display or 2 and run RTA software.


Searching for RTAs to meet your shiny and flashing lights needs, I don't see anything current. You might consider that used Samson, Mackie QuadEQ, or DOD RTA II.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22826419
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I was able to cut these trims using a dremel tool.. and they came out really well, the caps actually hid the imperfections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am almost done with the rack now, waiting for a few 1u blank plates from customavracks. I think it should be here by Monday. Will post pictures by evening.
> 
> In the mean time, another quick question.. I am looking for a led/lcd display spectrum analyzer. I know its vintage, but i dont really want any equalization stuff off that. I am already using the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 equalization through my denon 4311ci avr.
> 
> This is just for pure eye candy. I like my htpc's vfd spectrum analyzer, but i was wondering if there is a dedicated rack mountable spectrum analyzer that can be attached to an AVR, or something that shows all those dancing leds...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There used to be one Samson D1500, but thats discontinued now, plus its blue color, i'd prefer something in black.




I got a clean cut, with a hacksaw.

*Neurorad* gave very good suggestions, here are a few more...
http://harderstate.com/software-hardware-f20/what-is-this-studio-hardware-t17404.html 


or take a simpler approach & use a Rack Mount dB Display( http://tpro.com/cats.php?cat=63 ).


----------



## holyindian

Neurorad thanks again for the tips.


Finally the Rack is fully setup, but the living room is still under construction, i had to remove the foot board trims to do some cabling and few patches to fill on the walls.

``````

The rack is a Middle Atlantic ERK-4425

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


This is my first attempt with the Racks, until a few weeks back i did not even know the basics, reading this thread, and help from member like Jautor, Neurorad.. made me get this up and running.


I think i did a decent job with cable management as well, will post pictures of the cabling soon.


----------



## Mfusick

Looks great !


----------



## Neurorad

Looks really sharp!


Is that some kind of pullout keyboard and monitor shelf? Model?


Any difficulties with the MA ERK? Would you use it again?


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22831745
> 
> 
> Looks really sharp!
> 
> 
> Is that some kind of pullout keyboard and monitor shelf? Model?
> 
> 
> Any difficulties with the MA ERK? Would you use it again?



Neurorad, thanks!!










I think the MA ERK is a very solid and sturdy rack. I know its the side walls are non-removable, but i dont see any real life value to removable sides, Chris at CustomAVRacks felt the same, in fact i think it gives a very solid strong hold to the entire frame structure. I was able to use velcro and zipties attached to the inner wall for cable management as well, looks really neat. will post pics of cabling as well.

We plan to live in this current house for two more years hence the rack will be sitting in the living room, after that we move to our new home with dedicated theater in the basement, then I will be adding another rack along with this for home automation controllers and holding 5 other amplifiers (Emotiva).


Yes the LCD Monitor is a Belkin Titan 17" Dual-Rail LCD Rack (model no. F1DC101C-US)

It has dual rails, one for the keyboard and another for the lcd, either can be slided in an out as per requirement, one of the pictures show the keyboard and lcd slide out togather, and another shows the keyboard slide in with just only the lcd out, this way i can use an on screen monitoring for security cams, four view in grid works like a charm.

The main intent of this onboard lcd monitor was for controlling the SuperMicro 24Bay 72TB Windows Home Server machine for updates and maintainence of the media server, but now i am making use of it in multiple ways. I think its a must add on.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mfusick*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22831611
> 
> 
> Looks great !





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22831745
> 
> 
> Looks really sharp!


Sure does!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22830797
> 
> 
> Neurorad thanks again for the tips.
> 
> 
> Finally the Rack is fully setup, but the living room is still under construction, i had to remove the foot board trims to do some cabling and few patches to fill on the walls.
> 
> ``````
> 
> The rack is a Middle Atlantic ERK-4425
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first attempt with the Racks, until a few weeks back i did not even know the basics, reading this thread, and help from member like Jautor, Neurorad.. made me get this up and running.
> 
> 
> I think i did a decent job with cable management as well, will post pictures of the cabling soon.



Congrats on the rack, it's a beaut!

I always thought a SilverStone CW02 HTPC, would look good rack mounted, now I know.









List of racked gear, from top to bottom please.









Can't wait to see the rear!


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22837294
> 
> 
> 
> Sure does!
> 
> Congrats on the rack, it's a beaut!
> 
> I always thought a SilverStone CW02 HTPC, would look good rack mounted, now I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List of racked gear, from top to bottom please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see the rear!



Oppiz, thanks for the motivating words.

I learnt a lot from this forum, and the friendly members in here. Sometimes i guess help comes from guys in here better than real life friends.










The SilverStone CW02 case is just amazing, it took up everything i threw at it. It even houses the tallest heatsink ever, the ThermalRight Silver Arrow. Plus some really beefy components.

You can see the HTPC's build pics/log here.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1442960/build-pics-my-i7-2600k-htpc-build-with-silverstone-cw02-case 


The rack is mounted with the following equipments below.

(not necessarily in order of appearance)









Rack Middle Atlantic ERK-4425

Panamax M5400-PM

Middle Atlantic LT-1RA Rackmount Light

Furman D10-PFP (extender)

Tascam CD-A700 CD Player & Cassette Recorder

Dish VIP722K receiver (with MA custom RSH faceplate)

XBox 360 Slim (with MA custom RSH faceplate)
Coolerguys 1U Bracket with (6) 40mm Med Speed CG fans / Programmable LED Controller 

Denon 4311CI AVR

SuperMicro 24 Bay Server Chassis (72 Terabyte)

Belkin Titan 17" Dual-Rail LCD Rack (model no. F1DC101C-US)

HTPC SilverStone CW02 (with MA custom RSH faceplate)

APC SUA1500RMU2 UPS

2U Drawer

Buttkicker BKA-1000-N AMP (with MA Custom RSH faceplate)

Dayton SA-1000 Amp for the THT subwoofer


There is a 1U space between few components that gets hot. The 1u fan is between the xbox and the denon receiver, to blow out hot air from above the denon receiver and below the xbox.

I will post pictures of cable management over the weekend, as i still have to connect a few more extension cables for the IR blaster for Universal remote.


The LCD monitor is dual rail equipped. Both the LCD monitor and the keyboard can be slided out individually, u can have both the montior and keyboard out togather or just the monitor with keyboard slided in. Thus giving options for on-board rack display.

This was an amazing deal i got off ebay, usually this Belkin LCD Rackmount monitor is sold for 1500 bucks, but i got lucky and got it for 175 dollars off a data center liquidation company who was going out of business and wanted to sell off everything and move out. This was an unused box packed model, except they did not know if it will work or not, as they had not tested it. All they mentioned was brand new in box, never opened, but untested. I took a chance and brought it for 175. And viola it hit the bulls eye.

 

 


I am considering an Oppo Blu Ray player maybe the BDP-103, but unsure if HTPC negates the use of the dedicated player. Also i dont really know if the PQ and the sound is really better from the oppo player as compared to the HTPC's blu ray disk via the sound card and the avr receiver.


----------



## JeffreyJonesBSME

I'm to the painting phase of my home theater project. I wanted to show off my rack when finsished, but my rack is a custom wood/painted rack. It seems this forum has leaned towards prefabricated metal racks. I'm on the fence.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22840289
> 
> 
> 
> The rack is mounted with the following equipments below.
> 
> (in order of appearance)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rack Middle Atlantic ERK-4425
> 
> Furman D10-PFP (extender)
> 
> Middle Atlantic LT-1RA Rackmount Light
> 
> Panamax M5400-PM
> 
> Dish VIP722K receiver (with MA custom RSH faceplate)
> 
> Tascam CD-A700 CD Player & Cassette Recorder
> 
> XBox 360 Slim (with MA custom RSH faceplate)
> Coolerguys 1U Bracket with (6) 40mm Med Speed CG fans / Programmable LED Controller
> 
> Denon 4311CI AVR
> 
> HTPC SilverStone CW02 (with MA custom RSH faceplate)
> 
> Belkin Titan 17" Dual-Rail LCD Rack (model no. F1DC101C-US)
> 
> Buttkicker BKA-1000-N AMP (with MA Custom RSH faceplate)
> 
> APC SUA1500RMU2 UPS
> 
> SuperMicro 24 Bay Server Chassis (72 Terabyte)
> 
> Dayton SA-1000 Amp for the THT subwoofer
> 
> 2U Drawer



Shuffled the gear listing for you, I think I got it right.









That's an awesome deal you got on the Belkin Titan. The Middle Atlantic version is between *$2000* & *$4000*.









Thanks for the HTPC build link.









In your case, using a HTPC negates an Oppo BDP & with the right sound card plus a multi-ch amp( Emotiva







), could negate your Denon receiver also.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffreyJonesBSME*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22840570
> 
> 
> I'm to the painting phase of my home theater project. I wanted to show off my rack when finsished, but my rack is a custom wood/painted rack. It seems this forum has leaned towards prefabricated metal racks. I'm on the fence.



Please don't let that hold you back, from sharing your pics with us. I personally, appreciate racks in all forms.









We look forward to seeing them, when you are ready.


----------



## cheezit73

Here is mine been done for a while but recently added to it and re organized!

 


More details are in my build thread.


----------



## JamesVG81

The fans are cooling a radiator with water in it. Didn't want to put that above all my expensive toys . The reciver is up top because most of the cables get plugged into it. That way all the cable's don't run the full length of my rack and get in the way.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nebrunner*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22451896
> 
> 
> My rack is going to be similar setup, minus the crazy number of fans! All those fans are pulling cool air in? Would it work better to have them on the back top pushing hot air out?
> 
> 
> What kind of thinking did you do when it came to what equipment to put at what levels? Ease of use? Heat concerns? I see your receiver is at the top I figured that should be more mid to lower to make it easier to get too, and also to keep all the heat from passing up through it. My Onkyo gets pretty hot on its own.


----------



## scgrg

These are all fantastic, but as I see these I keep having a question about light emission into a theater room. I have attached a VERY simple picture showing the layout which will work best in my room. I like how people expose the racks to the front because it looks really cool, but if the rack is say 2 feet away and perpendicular (as the picture shows) to a viewer of the screen won't there a) be too much light in the room and b) directed right at the user in this case which will be distracting. On many cable boxes and amps they use bright blue LEDs which when dark seem really bright. I know you can get smoked glass doors to put on the front but will that cut down enough to not be distracting. A good example of a rack which is awesome is holyindian's shown just a few above here...it seems like in a dark room when watching a movie that is going to be an extreme amount of light.


thoughts?


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scgrg*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22861051
> 
> 
> On many cable boxes and amps they use bright blue LEDs which when dark seem really bright. I know you can get smoked glass doors to put on the front but will that cut down enough to not be distracting. A good example of a rack which is awesome is holyindian's shown just a few above here...it seems like in a dark room when watching a movie that is going to be an extreme amount of light.



Better to throw the little bit of light into the room instead of onto the screen. Many components, especially the ones with "impressive" LED displays (such as the Panamax power conditioner and Middle Atlantic Light bar in holyindian's setup) have adjustable LED settings. I have mine all turned to the minimum. If that's still too bright, either cover unnecessary lights with electrical tape or other covering(s) to reduce or eliminate the glow. It is worth a check of the manuals for equipment with lots of lights before purchase to see what options they have.


Jeff


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scgrg*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22861051
> 
> 
> These are all fantastic, but as I see these I keep having a question about light emission into a theater room. I have attached a VERY simple picture showing the layout which will work best in my room. I like how people expose the racks to the front because it looks really cool, but if the rack is say 2 feet away and perpendicular (as the picture shows) to a viewer of the screen won't there a) be too much light in the room and b) directed right at the user in this case which will be distracting. On many cable boxes and amps they use bright blue LEDs which when dark seem really bright. I know you can get smoked glass doors to put on the front but will that cut down enough to not be distracting. A good example of a rack which is awesome is holyindian's shown just a few above here...it seems like in a dark room when watching a movie that is going to be an extreme amount of light.
> 
> 
> thoughts?




A smoked glass door or a product like Light Dims( http://www.lightdims.com/ ), would work.

It's never bothered me( guess I'm just used to it ), regardless, I keep all rack emitted lighting to a minimum, when possible.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

You could always put some window tinting film on the glass


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scgrg*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22861051
> 
> 
> These are all fantastic, but as I see these I keep having a question about light emission into a theater room. I have attached a VERY simple picture showing the layout which will work best in my room. I like how people expose the racks to the front because it looks really cool, but if the rack is say 2 feet away and perpendicular (as the picture shows) to a viewer of the screen won't there a) be too much light in the room and b) directed right at the user in this case which will be distracting. On many cable boxes and amps they use bright blue LEDs which when dark seem really bright. I know you can get smoked glass doors to put on the front but will that cut down enough to not be distracting. A good example of a rack which is awesome is holyindian's shown just a few above here...it seems like in a dark room when watching a movie that is going to be an extreme amount of light.
> 
> 
> thoughts?



scgrg,


My setup is almost exactly as your diagram with MLP being closest to the rack and I would agree that the LED's on some of my equipment (DirecTV DVR's and temperature monitor) can be a quite noticable. However, when the movie starts playing, there is so much more light coming off of the projection screen that I rarely notice any light coming from the components.


I think it just depends on your own opinion of what you want to be able to see from your seating position(s). There are many that prefer to keep the components behind them in the back of the room, or hidden from the room all together for that true "Theatre Experience". For me personally I like to easily see my components and I my speakers so everything is out there and nothing is hidden and I built my room with that in mind.


My room is a multi-purpose area and if it were a dedicated theatre only room, then I would consider hiding more of the speakers behind a false wall, but I would still want my rack and components easily visible on the side wall as they are now. I would think that if they were on the screen wall facing me, that it could get too distracting.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brent A*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22863308
> 
> 
> I would agree that the LED's on some of my equipment (DirecTV DVR's and temperature monitor) can be a quite noticeable.



Note that the bright LEDs on the "ring" on DirecTV boxes is adjustable. Pressing the left/right buttons together will cycle through several dimming settings (including off). The other blue lights on the panel, though, will need something else. (OPPIZ - great link for those pre-made sticky covers! Definitely going to get a sheet of those next time I'm at Fry's... )


Jeff


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22863337
> 
> 
> Note that the bright LEDs on the "ring" on DirecTV boxes is adjustable. Pressing the left/right buttons together will cycle through several dimming settings (including off). The other blue lights on the panel, though, will need something else. (OPPIZ - great link for those pre-made sticky covers! Definitely going to get a sheet of those next time I'm at Fry's... )
> 
> 
> Jeff



Thanks for that!

I wasn't aware of that and never even thought to look into it as I wouldn't have even considered that DirecTV was that thoughtful.


----------



## jmoakk





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *americanflannel*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1530#post_22807514
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First attempt at an av rack. I am going to clean up the wiring some and add another patch panel and power strip.
> 
> 1. Patch Panel (for cat6 ran everywhere in the basement)
> 
> 2. 24 port gig switch
> 
> 3. 4x2 matrix switch (my 4x4 doesn't play nice with the projector not sure why yet)
> 
> 4. FIOS box
> 
> 5. Receiver
> 
> 6. PS3 & AppleTV
> 
> 7. Xbox 360 and wii



I want to do something similar to this. I have a closet I want to cut into the side of and allow access to the back of the rack from the door way.


Could you please share details on how you went about making the hole and framing it? I'm afraid once I make a hole in the wall I'll be stuck and not know what to do next or how to make it look finished.


Anyone else willing to share details on how to actually make a hole and frame the drywall properly? I would appreciate it. Front and back if possible.


I plan on using a monoprice relay rack or middle Atlantic slim 5




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tedd

Americanflannel's av rack looks like a 2 post computer style rack, judging by the foot, and the square holes.

I really like the way he recessed it into the drywall. It does make me wonder if a velvet covered wood trough

could hide the foot, and hold remotes?


Here's the framing for my MA Slim5 37U rack going in. There will be a heavy duty steel U channel added,

to support the rear of the Slim5 rack.

recessed MA Slim5 37U framing.JPG 55k .JPG file


jmoakk, Is your wall drywalled on both sides?


----------



## andyboy

Here's my progress for my rack system. Had a long closet at the back of my media room. It had two doors on each side. I framed one door to place the rack. Still in progress. And oh...I'm not pro at all! Learned a lot by doing research on here and other sites. This site has been the most helpful.


----------



## Brent A




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22866763
> 
> 
> I want to do something similar to this. I have a closet I want to cut into the side of and allow access to the back of the rack from the door way.
> 
> 
> Could you please share details on how you went about making the hole and framing it? I'm afraid once I make a hole in the wall I'll be stuck and not know what to do next or how to make it look finished.
> 
> 
> Anyone else willing to share details on how to actually make a hole and frame the drywall properly? I would appreciate it. Front and back if possible.
> 
> 
> I plan on using a monoprice relay rack or middle Atlantic slim 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2



jmoakk,


Mine was a fresh build while finishing the basement so I didn't have to re-model anything that was already existing. Before you cut any holes in your proposed wall, just make sure it isn't a structurally supporting wall as that will require some extra planning.


Here is the post I made about my recessed rack and finishing it without trimming it out.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/788074/show-me-your-rack/900#post_19105235 


I built mine with full access to the rear of it via a standard door from the adjacent room so it is very easy to get to the rear of the components. I didn't post pictures of the back side but with the first pic you can get the idea of the opening.


----------



## jmoakk

Thanks everyone for the replies. Yeah, my wall is drywalled on both sides.


Ill try to get pictures soon.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Andrew911tt

andyboy I like it


What are you going to do in the closet around the base?


----------



## scgrg

Thanks everyone in refernce to the "light emission of racks" that is exactly why I love AVS forums!!!!


----------



## americanflannel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22866763
> 
> 
> I want to do something similar to this. I have a closet I want to cut into the side of and allow access to the back of the rack from the door way.
> 
> 
> Could you please share details on how you went about making the hole and framing it? I'm afraid once I make a hole in the wall I'll be stuck and not know what to do next or how to make it look finished.
> 
> 
> Anyone else willing to share details on how to actually make a hole and frame the drywall properly? I would appreciate it. Front and back if possible.
> 
> 
> I plan on using a monoprice relay rack or middle Atlantic slim 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22867771
> 
> 
> Here's my progress for my rack system. Had a long closet at the back of my media room. It had two doors on each side. I framed one door to place the rack. Still in progress. And oh...I'm not pro at all! Learned a lot by doing research on here and other sites. This site has been the most helpful.



Mine is actually constructed exactly like this except in my case it IS a two post relay rack from monoprice as other people guessed.


I put it in when I built the basement so it's a non-bearing wall with the studs just the right distance apart to wedge it in there.

I left room under it to put my sub behind the wall and port it into the theater as well.

I still have to make it "pretty" with some trim and possibly a glass door.

It's "industrial" looking and extremely practical so far and I am loving it!


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22867771
> 
> 
> Here's my progress for my rack system. Had a long closet at the back of my media room. It had two doors on each side. I framed one door to place the rack. Still in progress. And oh...I'm not pro at all! Learned a lot by doing research on here and other sites. This site has been the most helpful.


Since you haven't mudded yet, or even if you have, I'd add an outlet to the wall behind the rack, to avoid the visible power cables, run through the wall. Pretty easy job.


Nice job!


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew911tt*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22874550
> 
> 
> andyboy I like it
> 
> 
> What are you going to do in the closet around the base?


Thanks! I'm going to to rip out the existing baseboard and get one long one that extends across the wall so there's no visible lines


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22882874
> 
> 
> Since you haven't mudded yet, or even if you have, I'd add an outlet to the wall behind the rack, to avoid the visible power cables, run through the wall. Pretty easy job.
> 
> 
> Nice job!


Unfortunately I can't do much with the power outlet. There's a support beam on that corner and there's no way I can run the electrical line.


----------



## wadepoe

Just Finished stage 1 or rack building this month.


Samsung monitor

middle atlantic 915r

Custom HTPC (XBMC/Sickbeard/SABNZBD) (with USB IR adapter)

ATT Uverse cable box

Logitec harmony RF extender for my harmony 1100 (controls everything.)

Monoprice 4x4 hdmi matrix

DLink NAS 2 bay

ATT Uverse modem (Back)

PS3 Slim

Panasonic Power conditioner


Monoprice 16 port network switch (not used)

middle atlantic 915r (not used)


Still having problems with 4x4 matrix over monoprice HDMI over cat5e extenders. (connection problems).

 


Stage 2:

full home audio + a few amps. (havnt chosen brand yet)


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22889833
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I can't do much with the power outlet. There's a support beam on that corner and there's no way I can run the electrical line.













Channel the beam with a chisel, run the Romex, cover with nail plates, and fix drywall.


Or, easier, drill a hole through the beam.


----------



## avrignaud

Hi Folks,


Previously posted this as a new thread, but realized it might get more traction here since it pulled from this thread originally. So reposting in case that might help spark some thoughts. Thank you in advance!


AV


[begin repost]


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avrignaud*  /t/1455618/newbie-questions-on-in-wall-racks-with-thanks/0_100#post_22907330
> 
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> I'm doing a bit of a living/media room remodel, and am looking to try and get my equipment out of a hulking Salamander rack and into the wall where it belongs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'm not very familiar with the racks, and had a few questions to make sure I'm going in the right direction.
> 
> 
> First, I'm aiming for something very similar to what Max Lomax did in this post . I'll try to post the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key elements I like about this are that the rack is embedded in the wall, "starts" a few feet off the ground, and has a really nice seamless look, with plates to cover all sort of components, including the oddly-shaped ones like the video game consoles. I work as a digital entertainment consultant, and have way too many of these little gaming boxes around, and am hoping to get them all cleaned up into a solution that I can tweak and modify well into the future as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing missing from this example picture is a closing door, which is something I might like to have (not 100% decided).
> 
> 
> I will be installing this into a wall where I can likely get rear access. So, running power should be relatively easy, and I don't think I need any sort of sliding or pivoting rack.
> 
> 
> That leads me to my questions — with thanks in advance to anything any of you can share!
> 
> 
> First, based on this article , I'm leaning toward the Sanus Component Series CFR2136 rack . I'm curious if anyone has had any experience with this rack, or can imagine any issues with the way I'd hope to install and use it? Related, would this rack work with and without a door, if I wanted to change my mind and go one way or another?
> 
> 
> Second, it is unclear to me what the purpose is of some of the rack mounting kits I see for components, when those components appear to simply sit on a shelf? For example, I have rack mount ears for my ATI 1505 Amp, and may order the same for my soon-to-be-delivered Marantz 8801 Preamp. But considering the weight of some of these devices, I struggle to imagine them "hanging" by just these front ears. So, the question is what exactly are those ears or kits for, and are they applicable to my proposed rack solution?
> 
> 
> Finally, I'm confused on how to get the clean, flush look with the faceplates above, especially for oddly-shaped devices like the video game consoles. I found some reference to a Performance Audio, stating they can supply these custom plates for Middle Atlantic racks, but I haven't been able to find a specific source, and am not sure if those would fit this rack as well.
> 
> 
> At the end of the day I'm hoping to find a reasonably priced rack that I can use to get a similar look as the picture above. The door isn't critical, so if there's a better solution without (quality/price), I'm very open to hearing about it as well.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for anything you can share — with thanks!
> 
> 
> AV


----------



## Neurorad

If you're going for an in-wall rack, you'd buy a rack without sides, and no casters, not a rack like the Sanus you linked to. Take a look at the Middle Atlantic Slim5 series.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Actually I would get a rack with sides and a rear door so that you can ventilate it correctly. Sealed all the way are ound with fans at the top.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22908320
> 
> 
> Actually I would get a rack with sides and a rear door so that you can ventilate it correctly. Sealed all the way are ound with fans at the top.



Thats what i have done with my ERK-4425


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22867771
> 
> 
> Here's my progress for my rack system. Had a long closet at the back of my media room. It had two doors on each side. I framed one door to place the rack. Still in progress. And oh...I'm not pro at all! Learned a lot by doing research on here and other sites. This site has been the most helpful.


*avrignaud*, seems like you want to do what *andyboy* has done. Very seldom are doors used with custom rackmounts. Very heavy components with rack ears, need shelf or rear rack rail support( most manuals suggest this ). I don't know much about Sanus racks, they seem to make nice products. I really like their SANUS EcoSystem™, but the rest of their rack product line is too limited. I'd stick with Middle Atlantic, Lowell or Raxxess/Chief Mfg. The Middle Atlantic custom rackmounts will work with any 19" rack.

*Custom Rackmount info:* http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/rshcus2.htm 
*Database:* http://www2.middleatlantic.com/rsh/RSHdataDepth.txt 
*Order:* http://www.customavrack.com/category/20-middle-atlantic-custom-rack-shelves.aspx 


Back when I put my rack together, I ordered everything from Performance Audio, but their prices have gone up.

Now I order from CustomAVrack.com , much better prices.








http://www.customavrack.com/default.aspx 


Read thru the links below, they should provide everything you need to know.

*1.* http://www.customavrack.com/blog.aspx 
*2.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/6-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx 
*3.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/7-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx 
*4.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/9-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks-page-2-of-part-3.aspx


----------



## avrignaud

Thank you very much, everyone! I obviously have some reading to do, so I'll go do that before asking any more questions. Really appreciate the feedback so far!


----------



## cheezit73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wadepoe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560_60#post_22893321
> 
> 
> Just Finished stage 1 or rack building this month.
> 
> 
> Samsung monitor
> 
> middle atlantic 915r
> 
> Custom HTPC (XBMC/Sickbeard/SABNZBD) (with USB IR adapter)
> 
> ATT Uverse cable box
> 
> Logitec harmony RF extender for my harmony 1100 (controls everything.)
> 
> Monoprice 4x4 hdmi matrix
> 
> DLink NAS 2 bay
> 
> ATT Uverse modem (Back)
> 
> PS3 Slim
> 
> Panasonic Power conditioner
> 
> 
> Monoprice 16 port network switch (not used)
> 
> middle atlantic 915r (not used)
> 
> 
> Still having problems with 4x4 matrix over monoprice HDMI over cat5e extenders. (connection problems).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 2:
> 
> full home audio + a few amps. (havnt chosen brand yet)


Nice "Equipment" room! I think your guns have scared everyone else from commenting but the rack look good!


----------



## wadepoe

Yeah, I was thinking I should have closed the safe, but ehh its Texas.... Thanks for the comment not bad for a $200 craigslist MA rack.


----------



## Pain Infliction

200 bux for that rack was a steal! I found my MA rack on craigslist as well. One of the good things about living in a big city over the million negative things living in a big city.


----------



## wraunch

Wade, do you ever wish you would have flush mounted that rack in the wall? I have the option to do so and I'm trying to evaluate the pros and cons of it.


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^^ Do it. at my last house I didnt do it because I was renting and now that I bought my house I flush mounted it. It looks fantastic and glad I did it. Here is before and after.



Rented house
 


Bought house
  IMG]


----------



## wraunch

I tend to agree with you. Did you have to header off that wall to do that? Did you just leave enough of the rack hanging out of the wall to flush it up with the trim? Looks great btw!


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22908581
> 
> *avrignaud*, seems like you want to do what *andyboy* has done. Very seldom are doors used with custom rackmounts. Very heavy components with rack ears, need shelf or rear rack rail support( most manuals suggest this ). I don't know much about Sanus racks, they seem to make nice products. I really like their SANUS EcoSystem™, but the rest of their rack product line is too limited. I'd stick with Middle Atlantic, Lowell or Raxxess/Chief Mfg. The Middle Atlantic custom rackmounts will work with any 19" rack.
> 
> *Custom Rackmount info:* http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/rshcus2.htm
> *Database:* http://www2.middleatlantic.com/rsh/RSHdataDepth.txt
> *Order:* http://www.customavrack.com/category/20-middle-atlantic-custom-rack-shelves.aspx
> 
> 
> Back when I put my rack together, I ordered everything from Performance Audio, but their prices have gone up.
> 
> Now I order from CustomAVrack.com , much better prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.customavrack.com/default.aspx
> 
> 
> Read thru the links below, they should provide everything you need to know.
> 
> *1.* http://www.customavrack.com/blog.aspx
> *2.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/6-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx
> *3.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/7-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx
> *4.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/9-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks-page-2-of-part-3.aspx



Yea, the cheapest Middle Atlantic rack I found was on customavrack.com. Great prices!


----------



## Pain Infliction

Thanks! Yes I had to header it off and when I put the rack in, I just made it flush with the wall. The trim cleans the cuts up and I also like the rack pictures with the trim more than the racks without. The vent at the bottom is for ventilation. The rack is sitting on a sealed box that I made with a cutout for a dryer vent tube that runs through the wall. There is a hole in the top of the box for the air to go through the rack and a temperature controled fan assembly at the top.


Here is an old pic from when it was at my last house. Sorry for the blurry pic
 .


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22909562
> 
> 
> ^^^^ Do it. at my last house I didnt do it because I was renting and now that I bought my house I flush mounted it. It looks fantastic and glad I did it. Here is before and after.
> 
> 
> 
> Rented house
> 
> 
> 
> Bought house
> IMG]



Looks good..

I am in your same condition as you were earlier. Currently i have the rack sitting out like a space shuttle in this rented home. Planning to buy a home in 2015







and then will conceal it into the wall in the dedicated theater room in the basement.


----------



## wraunch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22909873
> 
> 
> Thanks! Yes I had to header it off and when I put the rack in, I just made it flush with the wall. The trim cleans the cuts up and I also like the rack pictures with the trim more than the racks without. The vent at the bottom is for ventilation. The rack is sitting on a sealed box that I made with a cutout for a dryer vent tube that runs through the wall. There is a hole in the top of the box for the air to go through the rack and a temperature controled fan assembly at the top.
> 
> 
> Here is an old pic from when it was at my last house. Sorry for the blurry pic
> .



I assume the fans at the top are pulling the heat out of the rack? Do you have anything actively pulling air into the rack to cool it or is it all just exhaust? I have an MA ERK 44 rack that is about 72" tall so I won't be able to use that "box" design but I might put some fans in the very bottom rack slots to pull air into the rack and then have exhaust fans in the top.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Thanks! Oh how I remember those days. Matter of fact it was a little over a year ago I posted the rack in this thread saying almost the exact same thing you are. I live in Houston so there are no basements. Maybe a couple of houses that were built in the 20's and 30's but those are rare. I wish I had a basement and I tell that to my wife all the time. I turned the gameroom upstairs into a dedicated theater. Not the most ideal scenario but it is all I can do. I actually bought the house because of the layout. The stairs going to the second floor split off from each other and the theater is in is own wing and the bedrooms are in the other. That was perfect and I did not find anything close to this layout in my price point.


One question....does a bassement count as square footage on the house? I dont think it does, but my wife and I always wonder that from the DIY shows we watch.


----------



## avrignaud

An unfinished basement doesn't count as square footage; however, if you finish it out it can.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wraunch*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22910297
> 
> 
> I assume the fans at the top are pulling the heat out of the rack? Do you have anything actively pulling air into the rack to cool it or is it all just exhaust? I have an MA ERK 44 rack that is about 72" tall so I won't be able to use that "box" design but I might put some fans in the very bottom rack slots to pull air into the rack and then have exhaust fans in the top.



Yes those fans are pulling the heat out. I do not have fan pulling in the cooler air. I though about it before but I do not need it. The temp never climbs above 85 degrees. You have to be careful when using puller and pusher fans together as well. You no not want one set of fans stronger than the other. You could always put in a vent plate on the rack. I think Middle Atlantic has a document you can read about ventilating a rack. It is very detailed and you can download it off of their website.


----------



## holyindian

Gosh, I have been convincing wife to let us move to Houston, being fed up of the snow and wind. 5 months in Chicago is sleepy, half year wasted, high sales tax, high property tax, high insurance premiums, depleting downtown and job opportunities, extra expensive houses.. where as Houston is the contrary. for a 300-400K you can get a semi-mansion house.... plus low property taxes.

She looks almost convinced, but since few months i am a little bit put off... Buy a house and building a dedicated theater into it is one of my prime agenda's (which is not wife's)







and the fact that in Texas you cannot have a basement.. i wonder how a decent theater build would turn out on the main floor plan even if effective soundraps and bass traps are installed.


----------



## Spaceman

Property taxes here are actually quite high, but we don't have state income tax. And yes, $300-400k will buy you a lot of house. Not one with a basement, but one with a dedicated media room that you can turn into your theater without having to take over a spare bedroom or part of the garage.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22910335
> 
> 
> Yes those fans are pulling the heat out. I do not have fan pulling in the cooler air. I though about it before but I do not need it. The temp never climbs above 85 degrees. You have to be careful when using puller and pusher fans together as well. You no not want one set of fans stronger than the other. You could always put in a vent plate on the rack. I think Middle Atlantic has a document you can read about ventilating a rack. It is very detailed and you can download it off of their website.



I do know that the erk top mount covers come with fans, but also you get options to just get the top mount cut out with no fans, and you can install your own fans. What did you choose? and whats the model number for your top cover.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spaceman*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22910369
> 
> 
> Property taxes here are actually quite high, but we don't have state income tax. And yes, $300-400k will buy you a lot of house. Not one with a basement, but one with a dedicated media room that you can turn into your theater without having to take over a spare bedroom or part of the garage.



Oh, cool. Have a couple of family living over in the H town, and they mention, compared to Chicago the property tax is definately low, for a 300K - 350K you pay around 12,000 as property tax for any decent county, where as in Houston a 400K house its roughly around 6K to 8K Which is still less.


----------



## Pain Infliction

I pay 3.5% property taxes(all taxes including school) and I do not know anybody that pays higher than that. There probably is in the super high class areas though. If you can get past the super HOT summers and the traffic (probably like Cicago) then you are set. I am very surprised at how expensive houses are everywhere else. I love that houses are cheap here. Not sure why but I am not complaining. Houston never really struggled as much as other cities during the recession wich is a plus so job security is pretty good.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22910429
> 
> 
> I do know that the erk top mount covers come with fans, but also you get options to just get the top mount cut out with no fans, and you can install your own fans. What did you choose? and whats the model number for your top cover.



It is the Slim5 and I had to cut out the area for the fans. The fans are from coolerguys.com and I upgraded the fans because the ones that came with it were not moving enough air.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22910503
> 
> 
> It is the Slim5 and I had to cut out the area for the fans. The fans are from coolerguys.com and I upgraded the fans because the ones that came with it were not moving enough air.



are they 120mm, do you have a link?


----------



## Pain Infliction

I will look it up when i get beck to my office.


----------



## holyindian

Thanks, looking forward to it.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Here is the cooling fan setup. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556086352.html 


here are the fans that I swapped the stock ones with. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556096603.html 


If memory serves me right the fans come pulling the air in. You have to take them off and turn them over so they pull the air out. No big deal since I swapped them out anyway. The hardest part was cutting a good rectangle out of the thick steel on top of the rack.


----------



## LeBon

The new Slim 5 racks have knockouts in the top for fans.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22911058
> 
> 
> Here is the cooling fan setup. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556086352.html
> 
> 
> here are the fans that I swapped the stock ones with. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556096603.html
> 
> 
> If memory serves me right the fans come pulling the air in. You have to take them off and turn them over so they pull the air out. No big deal since I swapped them out anyway. The hardest part was cutting a good rectangle out of the thick steel on top of the rack.



Thanks for the link, so here is a quick question.

I have the top mount with fan cut outs, i was planning to install the 120mm Gentle Typhoons.. (which is supposed to be the best of its class in 120mm category)... how is the cooler guys fan in terms of working as an exhaust? And any particular reason u went with the entire fan kit including the fan controller, cos anyways u cannot see anything from the top,? Does ur exhaust work 24x7 or have u programmed it to run/exhaust out air only when reaching a certain degree. Or Will just mounting the fans to the top mount work via 4pin molex connectors via daisy chaining them? Just trying not to overspend too much on simple exhaust mechanism. Now cos i have a four fan cutout, i will have to be spending over 200 dollars for the cooler guys fan kit and the controller. Instead if i could just get 4 fans for 40 bucks, and a 4 pin adapter to make the molex pins work worth 25 bucks, for less than half i can have it going. No point in going the controller route for something that is sitting on the top of the rack thats 80" high.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22911135
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link, so here is a quick question.
> 
> I have the top mount with fan cut outs, i was planning to install the 120mm Gentle Typhoons.. (which is supposed to be the best of its class in 120mm category)... how is the cooler guys fan in terms of working as an exhaust? And any particular reason u went with the entire fan kit including the fan controller, cos anyways u cannot see anything from the top,? Does ur exhaust work 24x7 or have u programmed it to run/exhaust out air only when reaching a certain degree. Or Will just mounting the fans to the top mount work via 4pin molex connectors via daisy chaining them? Just trying not to overspend too much on simple exhaust mechanism. Now cos i have a four fan cutout, i will have to be spending over 200 dollars for the cooler guys fan kit and the controller. Instead if i could just get 4 fans for 40 bucks, and a 4 pin adapter to make the molex pins work worth 25 bucks, for less than half i can have it going. No point in going the controller route for something that is sitting on the top of the rack thats 80" high.



In terms of working as exhaust it works great. I got the kit because you can program the kit to turn on at a certain temp and shut off at a certain temp. I do not want to have to go and look to see if it is getting too hot in my rack and flip a switch. The kit does everything for me and perfectly. You can use your cut outs for fans and buy the temp control module by itself. Then you can splice the connectors onto your fans. Run them in parallel and make sure they are to the correct voltage. I think this might have answered your questions and points you were making. Let me know if you have any more questions.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LeBon*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22911125
> 
> 
> The new Slim 5 racks have knockouts in the top for fans.



I thought so but was not sure. My rack must be an older one and I bought it off of craigslist.


----------



## chrisjmccord

So I'm just starting to look around to find out what is out there for A/V racks, I don't have the dedicated room yet, a little ways away from that, but when the time comes I want to be well researched.

I saw some of the links above, specifically http://www.customavrack.com/ for audio video racks...are there other well known or well respected places to shop for a/v racks?


Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components? Is there someplace the details building one of these racks and putting the a/v equipment in there?


I want one that is big enough for expansion of components, but yet also flexible to get to the back easy. I don't know yet if I want one built into a wall, or hidden in a closet yet etc? How does one make these decisions?


There are so many different options, where does one begin to shop for these things? What determines which way you go with an a/v rack etc?


Thanks!


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22908581
> 
> 
> Read thru the links below, they should provide everything you need to know.
> 
> *1.* http://www.customavrack.com/blog.aspx
> *2.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/6-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx
> *3.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/7-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks.aspx
> *4.* http://www.customavrack.com/News/9-the-brass-tacks-of-middle-atlantic-racks-page-2-of-part-3.aspx



!


----------



## chrisjmccord

Thanks! I missed this post somehow, lol.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22911231
> 
> 
> So I'm just starting to look around to find out what is out there for A/V racks, I don't have the dedicated room yet, a little ways away from that, but when the time comes I want to be well researched.
> 
> I saw some of the links above, specifically http://www.customavrack.com/ for audio video racks...are there other well known or well respected places to shop for a/v racks?
> 
> 
> Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components? Is there someplace the details building one of these racks and putting the a/v equipment in there?
> 
> 
> I want one that is big enough for expansion of components, but yet also flexible to get to the back easy. I don't know yet if I want one built into a wall, or hidden in a closet yet etc? How does one make these decisions?
> 
> 
> There are so many different options, where does one begin to shop for these things? What determines which way you go with an a/v rack etc?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I was in the same boat as you couple of weeks back, infact you know a lot more as compared to what i knew when i started.

I read this entire thread page to page, and saved a few pictures for the sake of inspiration for cable managment. Just four days of reading and i was able to setup a full size rack. Check two pages up. Chris at CustomAV Rack is a fantastic guy, talk to him, let him know what you need, and he will configure everything for you. U might need to send him an email of the list of components you have in the first place, and also possibly add few other items thats in ur wishlist or to buy in the future, and he will start recommending everything that you want.


The components sits flush on the rack, cos they are mounted on a shelf that is attached to a custom faceplate. Whatever equipments u have that does not have rackmounting ears, Chris will add those items to custom faceplates.

Here's the link to find the faceplate for your components.
http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp 

The sliding rack will be a little expensive one. However if you going for a standard budget rack u can choose one of the erk series..
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/sa/erksa.htm 

A full size rack is 44u spaces.

If u dont want side panels, instead perfer removable panels, just let chris know.


Getting a plexi glass is all upto ur choice, its expensive, and i dont see a point except if you are planning to place the rack out of view and hate the blings.


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1590#post_22911219
> 
> 
> In terms of working as exhaust it works great. I got the kit because you can program the kit to turn on at a certain temp and shut off at a certain temp. I do not want to have to go and look to see if it is getting too hot in my rack and flip a switch. The kit does everything for me and perfectly. You can use your cut outs for fans and buy the temp control module by itself. Then you can splice the connectors onto your fans. Run them in parallel and make sure they are to the correct voltage. I think this might have answered your questions and points you were making. Let me know if you have any more questions.



Thanks that does that for me, perfect explaination. I placing orders for this now. Thanks again.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Did you order just the temp control module or the complete kit? If you ordered the complete kit you will have to cut your rack to make it work but from what you were telling me it sounds like you have your fans already and need just the module.


----------



## chrisjmccord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22911751
> 
> 
> I was in the same boat as you couple of weeks back, infact you know a lot more as compared to what i knew when i started.
> 
> I read this entire thread page to page, and saved a few pictures for the sake of inspiration for cable managment. Just four days of reading and i was able to setup a full size rack. Check two pages up. Chris at CustomAV Rack is a fantastic guy, talk to him, let him know what you need, and he will configure everything for you. U might need to send him an email of the list of components you have in the first place, and also possibly add few other items thats in ur wishlist or to buy in the future, and he will start recommending everything that you want.
> 
> 
> The components sits flush on the rack, cos they are mounted on a shelf that is attached to a custom faceplate. Whatever equipments u have that does not have rackmounting ears, Chris will add those items to custom faceplates.
> 
> Here's the link to find the faceplate for your components.
> http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp
> 
> The sliding rack will be a little expensive one. However if you going for a standard budget rack u can choose one of the erk series..
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/sa/erksa.htm
> 
> A full size rack is 44u spaces.
> 
> If u dont want side panels, instead perfer removable panels, just let chris know.
> 
> 
> Getting a plexi glass is all upto ur choice, its expensive, and i dont see a point except if you are planning to place the rack out of view and hate the blings.



Thank you holyindian. This is very useful information. Its probably way ahead of where I am right now, as I don't even have a place in this current house to put a rack, but I know that in the future home we plan to buy/build, I will be making a spot. Thats when I'll need to create this rack. So my very early research is just to get acquainted with and familiar with what all I will need to investigate for my future space.


This info is a great start!


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avrignaud*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22907784
> 
> *Finally, I'm confused on how to get the clean, flush look with the faceplates above, especially for oddly-shaped devices like the video game consoles. I found some reference to a Performance Audio, stating they can supply these custom plates for Middle Atlantic racks, but I haven't been able to find a specific source, and am not sure if those would fit this rack as well.*





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22911231
> 
> *Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components?*



*From:* http://www.middleatlantic.com/pressdl/map/2011/RSHCEDIAHallofFame.pdf 


Recognized at CEDIA Expo 2011 based on the impact they’ve exerted on the industry for

over 28 years, *Middle Atlantic RSH Series Custom Rackmounts allow virtually any AV

component to be installed in a standard 19” enclosure without modifications.*

*Each RSH unit is quickly made to order and custom cut to provide a perfect opening for

the face of the component being mounted, resulting in a neatly-trimmed installation

that fits perfectly with no gaps.*

*There are accurate details for 10,000 components, including many introduced this year,

in the measured unit database available on middleatlantic.com to make ordering fast

and easy.* The database has grown steadily over the years thanks to the many customers

and manufacturer partners Middle Atlantic has worked with to measure applicable

components.


Asked about RSH rackmounts, Jim Garrett, Market Manager of Harman’s Luxury Audio

Group, one of Middle Atlantic’s manufacturer partners said, *“Part of the beauty of the

RSH Custom Rackshelf is the simplicity. The products just fit. No need to remove the feet

or install rack ears on a component. And the look is fantastic. Customers love the

elegant finished appearance.”*


----------



## chrisjmccord

^^^beautiful music to my ears^^^ now only if I had a closet or someplace to store a nice custom rack.

The new home, will have this planned out well.


----------



## andyboy

My finished job...I'm no pro what so ever and my cable management skill are horrid...


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22921833



Gear list?

Pic is too dark to tell...


----------



## chrisjmccord

Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.


----------



## Neurorad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22921938
> 
> 
> Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.



MA logo, upper left.


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22921884
> 
> 
> Gear list?
> 
> Pic is too dark to tell...


Cisco cable box (Fios)

PS3

XBOX360 (need to order custom face plate)

Pioneer Elite Receiver SC-05


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22921938
> 
> 
> Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.


Middle Atlantic Slim 5 Series Rack - 29U

Thanks!


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andyboy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22922057
> 
> 
> Cisco cable box (Fios)
> 
> PS3
> 
> XBOX360 (need to order custom face plate)
> 
> Pioneer Elite Receiver SC-05



Nice job! Thanks for the list.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22922042
> 
> 
> MA logo, upper left.



Ditto.

White MA logo, upper left corner.


----------



## nathanddrews

*Please help me learn proper wiring skills*


I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.


I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

2u =1u vent space


4u = 2u vent space


how much you can stick in will depend how hot it gets in your area..


i'm inclined to add a second rack 2x2u =7u space, 2x4u = 14u rack space....


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nathanddrews*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954194
> 
> 
> I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits.


Unless you've really determined where everything is going to go, and how it'll be interconnected, you sort of can't avoid the inevitable mess. You can mitigate just how messy it looks, but you have to balance that against how much trouble that makes for changing things.


D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed.


One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed.


monoprice.com is a phenomenally inexpensive supplier of all sort of colors and lengths of cabling. It's far better to use the right length than to get into trying to wrap or otherwise bundle ones that are too long. Once you find the desired setup, measure the cabling and order ones to fit. That alone works wonders for cleaning up how a rack looks. Without adding the hassle of trying to un-thread the cable later only to be locked by the bulk of a bundled extra length.


And when cabling be sure to avoid turning cables too tight, blocking air flow or making it unduly difficult to service the equipment later. As in, don't pull a cable so tight as to possibly break the wires inside of it or the socket to which it's attached. Or across the only vent holes a unit has. Or laced in so tight as to make it impossible get the hardware out for service later without disrupting a ton of other wiring to other gear. Nothing worse than trying to fix one problem and end up causing others due to wiring or connector failures.


In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nathanddrews*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954194
> 
> *Please help me learn proper wiring skills*
> 
> 
> I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.
> 
> 
> I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method.



Lacing bars are a god send


The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere


----------



## nathanddrews




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954337
> 
> 
> 2u =1u vent space
> 
> 4u = 2u vent space
> 
> how much you can stick in will depend how hot it gets in your area..
> 
> i'm inclined to add a second rack 2x2u =7u space, 2x4u = 14u rack space....



Thanks, I've been maintaining some space between my components, but nothing as strict as that rule. Usually it depends upon the component and whether or not it has vents or fans on the top or bottom... so I've been winging it. This rack is in the basement where it stays pretty cool year-round and most of my components run cool. Plus it came with the roof-mounted exhaust fans should I ever need them.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954368
> 
> 
> D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed. One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed. In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.



Good advice. The rack came with some metal d-ring-like cable holders down the back rails, but I haven't found a good way to utilize them yet. I'll probably just wait until I fill the rack with more things and move it closer to its final location. No sense in getting too serious about it yet, I suppose.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22955201
> 
> 
> Lacing bars are a god send. The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere



Lacing bars definitely seem like a good investment. I'm good at making my own cables and I've got several hundred feet of bulk stranded and solid wire left to customize things how I want, so I generally avoid buying premade cables.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

while it is a great idea to use coloured cables, if you have colour blindness i would tend to use the least colours as possible.


cable tie labels are your best friend that way you know where the cable is routed..


if gear throws out more heat than expected taking ambient room temp you might need double the space for air flow..


also note: if investing in gigabit switches take note that not all components in your network will support gigabit as 90-95% will only be supporting 10/100, i suspect we are likely 10-15 years away before gigabit or better should be mandatory for every component on the network...


----------



## Neurorad

As a general rule, run all your AC cables to one side of the rack and LV cables to the other.


+10, lacing bars make the job of keeping everything neat much easier.


I have been using 2 lacing bars for some components, one for AC and the other for LV, but pick the side for AC logically. If most of your AC cables enter the components on one side, choose that side for AC.


Velcro makes changes much easier. If you don't change often, use zip ties. Velcro One Wrap from Home Depot is fairly affordable.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954368
> 
> 
> Unless you've really determined where everything is going to go, and how it'll be interconnected, you sort of can't avoid the inevitable mess. You can mitigate just how messy it looks, but you have to balance that against how much trouble that makes for changing things.
> 
> 
> D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed.
> 
> 
> One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed.
> 
> 
> monoprice.com is a phenomenally inexpensive supplier of all sort of colors and lengths of cabling. It's far better to use the right length than to get into trying to wrap or otherwise bundle ones that are too long. Once you find the desired setup, measure the cabling and order ones to fit. That alone works wonders for cleaning up how a rack looks. Without adding the hassle of trying to un-thread the cable later only to be locked by the bulk of a bundled extra length.
> 
> 
> And when cabling be sure to avoid turning cables too tight, blocking air flow or making it unduly difficult to service the equipment later. As in, don't pull a cable so tight as to possibly break the wires inside of it or the socket to which it's attached. Or across the only vent holes a unit has. Or laced in so tight as to make it impossible get the hardware out for service later without disrupting a ton of other wiring to other gear. Nothing worse than trying to fix one problem and end up causing others due to wiring or connector failures.
> 
> 
> In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.


A lot of good advice!


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22955201
> 
> 
> Lacing bars are a god send
> 
> 
> The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere


I agree on both.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22957374
> 
> 
> As a general rule, run all your AC cables to one side of the rack and LV cables to the other.
> 
> 
> +10, lacing bars make the job of keeping everything neat much easier.
> 
> 
> I have been using 2 lacing bars for some components, one for AC and the other for LV, but pick the side for AC logically. If most of your AC cables enter the components on one side, choose that side for AC.
> 
> 
> Velcro makes changes much easier. If you don't change often, use zip ties. Velcro One Wrap from Home Depot is fairly affordable.


Good advice!

I use the rear length of my rack shelves as a lacing bar for all my power cords( going to the left side of the rack ). I then cross all other cables perpendicular, to rear rack rail mounted lacing bars( going to the right side of the rack ).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nathanddrews*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22954194
> 
> *Please help me learn proper wiring skills*
> 
> 
> I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.
> 
> 
> I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method.



*Here's a Cable Management PDF from Middle Atlantic:* http://www.middleatlantic.com/pdf/cablemgmtguide.pdf 

*You may find more info, advice & inspiration in these other links:
* http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=109913 
http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=ZIPPO&folderid=3303 
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.php?p=4228943&postcount=25 
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.php?p=5917101&postcount=72


----------



## eletech

I always do home theater installs in the closest closet and use a RF remote. Still have to get myself a RF remote, been slack since I can control most of my system from my phone. Not the way I want it but try to limit what I spend on myself.


----------



## chrisjmccord

So if you place an order with Mid-Atlantic on a custom rack for your own specific components, would they also help/assit you with ordering the right cables and lengths of cables, along with the cable management extras? Like could I basically give them the component information I have, and expect a close to out of the box setup/install of my gear, along with cables etc?


Or is that something that a pro installer would kind of need to be on site for, to measure certain things etc?


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22959096
> 
> *So if you place an order with Mid-Atlantic on a custom rack for your own specific components, would they also help/assit you with ordering the right cables and lengths of cables, along with the cable management extras? Like could I basically give them the component information I have, and expect a close to out of the box setup/install of my gear, along with cables etc?*
> 
> 
> Or is that something that a pro installer would kind of need to be on site for, to measure certain things etc?


*Middle Atlantic won't. The vendor you place your order with may, but I doubt it.*



Cable lengths will be determined once you arrange your rack, then measurements can be taken( DIY ).

When I first set up my rack, I used the dreaded "*Frankenstein method*"







, eventually I installed rear rack rails & lacing bars, then things started to look better.
*Example:* I measured from the source output, straight back to the lacing bar, then to the right side of the rack, then up to whichever AVR lacing bar I need, then over to the AVR input & straight back to input.

I then ordered cables close to my measurements from Monoprice.


----------



## chrisjmccord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22959662
> 
> *Middle Atlantic won't. The vendor you place your order with may, but I doubt it.*
> 
> 
> 
> Cable lengths will be determined once you arrange your rack, then measurements can be taken( DIY ).
> 
> When I first set up my rack, I used the dreaded "*Frankenstein method*"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , eventually I installed rear rack rails & lacing bars, then things started to look better.
> *Example:* I measured from the source output, straight back to the lacing bar, then to the right side of the rack, then up to whichever AVR lacing bar I need, then over to the AVR input & straight back to input.
> 
> I then ordered cables close to my measurements from Monoprice.



Ok, I see, so like you mentioned before (or someone did), just takes time and due diligence to get the clean and pristine look with cable management.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1620#post_22959682
> 
> 
> Ok, I see, so like you mentioned before (or someone did), just takes time and due diligence to get the clean and pristine look with cable management.



Also that it may take time for the equipment (or even the gear itself) to 'settle' into their ideal locations.


Like the fact you might not appreciate that dasblinkenlites on the front of your equipment turn out to be a huge peripheral vision distraction when sitting across the room from the stuff. So you'd need to move them up/down to get rid of the distraction, or hide them behind a panel. Or that the tray for the disc player(s) are too high or low to let your kids/spouse load them without breaking them... again.


So while something might look nifty draw out ahead of time in Visio or some other rack planner, it might not turn out to be useful laid out that way.


It's true a custom installer would be thinking about all this for you and taking all that into account. along with making all wires look pretty. Just expect to pay an awful lot for that... And still end up having to move things around.


So once you really know where everything work best, then you just replace any cables as needed. Yes, you'll end up with extras. You'd want to order more than you need anyway. Keep those on-hand for the day when you have to replace something. Because, inevitably, the connectors on the backs of the replacements won't be in the same places...


----------



## chrisjmccord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_22960186
> 
> 
> Also that it may take time for the equipment (or even the gear itself) to 'settle' into their ideal locations.
> 
> 
> Like the fact you might not appreciate that dasblinkenlites on the front of your equipment turn out to be a huge peripheral vision distraction when sitting across the room from the stuff. So you'd need to move them up/down to get rid of the distraction, or hide them behind a panel. Or that the tray for the disc player(s) are too high or low to let your kids/spouse load them without breaking them... again.
> 
> 
> So while something might look nifty draw out ahead of time in Visio or some other rack planner, it might not turn out to be useful laid out that way.
> 
> 
> It's true a custom installer would be thinking about all this for you and taking all that into account. along with making all wires look pretty. Just expect to pay an awful lot for that... And still end up having to move things around.
> 
> 
> So once you really know where everything work best, then you just replace any cables as needed. Yes, you'll end up with extras. You'd want to order more than you need anyway. Keep those on-hand for the day when you have to replace something. Because, inevitably, the connectors on the backs of the replacements won't be in the same places...



Good points, maybe the best thing to do, once rack is here is to put in the equipment as planned, but cable it all up using the spaghetti or Frankenstein look for cables, just to quickly get it installed and make sure the other things you mentioned get taken into account, the lights or the disc trays etc...once you've settled with that layout and its good, then plan your wiring?


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisjmccord*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_22960562
> 
> 
> Good points, maybe the best thing to do, once rack is here is to put in the equipment as planned, but cable it all up using the spaghetti or Frankenstein look for cables, just to quickly get it installed and make sure the other things you mentioned get taken into account, the lights or the disc trays etc...once you've settled with that layout and its good, then plan your wiring?



That will work, but most people will be reluctant to mess with it if it's working. besides the chance of messing something up, one normally has more pressing projects (i.e. stuff that doesn't work, or isn't installed yet). Once something is working, it unfortunately get's left like (esp if out of sight).


For this reason, I HATE doing any kind of temporary solution for anything. Unfortunately, you often have to.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

average length of all cables 2-5 meters pending on if you use rollout trays or not



the the case of binding cables together you might consider labeling them 1st before tie up


----------



## Neurorad

In my rack, I made sure everything worked, waited a year, and then cleaned up the mess.


Now, I plan on replacing my old server rack with a nice, shallower, new rack. Should take about a year. I plan on patching my distributed audio speakers with speakON connectors, replacing the rail-mount terminal blocks.


----------



## Neurorad

  

 

 


Only distributed audio. Server rack will be replaced. Pics taken with doors, sides, and top removed. Terminal Blocks will be replaced with SpeakON connectors, panel mount into rack plates, along with the Nuvo EZPort double gang plate.


----------



## OPPIZ

Good info... http://www.cepro.com/whitepapers/details/how_to_design_great_equipment_racks


----------



## JeffreyJonesBSME

Last weekend I got my equipment rack painted along with the equipment room. Cables still need some organization and other components need added. I was able to temporarily hook up some components and did a quick sound check.


Here's my equipment rack.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_22965330
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only distributed audio. Server rack will be replaced. Pics taken with doors, sides, and top removed. Terminal Blocks will be replaced with SpeakON connectors, panel mount into rack plates, along with the Nuvo EZPort double gang plate.



Hi Neurorad


Like the DIN rail. i assume one side is going to the amps/receiver and other is going to the speakers. Could you send me the details of where you got that from? Why the change to SpeakON and which prodcuts, specifically, will you be using?


Regards


mark


----------



## Neurorad

I chose DIN terminal blocks over barrier strips because I couldn't figure out a good way of mounting the terminal strips in the rack. I wanted a patching method that would be easy to disconnect so I could move the rack out of the closet easily. With these DIN terminal blocks, it's not easy to connect and disconnect. I'll have to check when I get home, but I think I used Wago 279-101 'through' TBs.


I considered 1/4" TRS connectors, but I want to avoid soldering, and these are not ideal for good connections.


I read of the Neutrik SpeakON connectors, in another forum, for patching speaker cables. I've done some reading/searching online, and these seem pretty ideal for my need. I bought a male and a female connector, from a Neutrik distributor, and he was very helpful in choosing.

http://www.greendotaudio.com/ 


I bought a Neutrik SpeakOn NL4FC female connector and a NL4MP male chassis mount connector, and some FastOn crimp connectors, to play with. I will mount them in a rack-mount pre-punched plate. Middle Atlantic offers some, need to research more. I plan to use 1 SpeakON 4-conductor connector per zone. It will be about $8.50/zone, using SpeakOns, plus the cost of the rack-mount plate.


I found this UK website has good SpeakOn info:

http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/43-042_NEUTRIK-SPEAKON-NL4MP-Panel-connector 


Mark at GreenDotAudio.com was very helpful. I'll definitely buy from hiim, if I go with SpeakOns. He sells a good deal of Neutrik, Middle Atlantic, and Switchcraft parts.


----------



## Neurorad

And yes, amps to TBs, TBs to each zone.


I will check my receipts to find out where I purchased the Wago TBs. I went with Wago over Phoenix and other manufacturers because of the reputation for quality.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

Thanks. look forward to seeing the finished product


----------



## Neurorad

Don't hold your breath. Took me a couple years to get the first rack installed, will take another year (or more) for the new rack. It's an enjoyable hobby, not a job. I'll take my sweet time.










But if I can help, let me know.


----------



## jac7788

My work in progress so far, have the rack built, and have it all temporarily wired. Am currently taking the double sliding door closet in the downstairs bedroom and framing around the rack, with a 24" door on the side for access. The floor will be laminated plywood to keep the rack level and will have another piece to put in front to wheel it out for service.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

cable tidy needed


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23034128
> 
> 
> cable tidy needed



+1!


----------



## wkearney99

Um, he did mention 'temporary' wiring...


I'd wonder about the keyed door to the computer on the bottom. I've found those doors to be more trouble than they're worth. They typically require the key to close them, but allow the key to be removed when it's unlocked. This leads to the key falling out of the cylinder (and getting kicked under the rack...) This becomes an issue if you expect to use a drive for ripping or playing discs. You end up leaving the door unlocked and open all the time. This doesn't look all that great and leaves another path open for dust to get pulled into the case unfiltered. I say this because I've got those cases and am swapping them out for ones with side-hinged doors instead.


Otherwise the gear layout looks good. Nice work. Just avoid taking the easy way out by cramming all those wires into big bundles. You'll regret that later when you have to replace something, which WILL happen. When you have everything mashed together you run the risk of breaking or disconnecting something unrelated when changes are needed. Again, advice based on experience...


----------



## markrubin

his wiring kind of looks like mind, after I had cleaned mine up










I tried the slide out rack extension kit that MA sells for the Slim 5: it does not work on carpet: I gave up and locked the rack to its base and service it in place: luckily I can get to one side and the back


Should work nice on a non carpeted floor


----------



## mystic_sniper28

temp wiring my foot lol..



I'd say it's been like it for a while, sadly I have no room to judge given my current cable pigsty


which will only get worse once i add hdmi, avswitch plus associated wiring into the mix..




when you have wiring looms that extend past 6 feet, i'd start looking at spring loaded spool cable winders.. similar to what you see for electrical extension cables..



reduce power cables to inside the rack..



with exception to power amps, i would consider reduce how cable you have,,


shorten fly leads and have a panel mount where possible av/hdmi/power..



you need to get in to the habit to having structured as cable having long cables like the rack above can cause tripping issues not mention venting problems...


if I had a rack like that, i'd be having my local power co. disconnecting the lead-in due to the electrical hazard the rack has caused.. and must be rectified prior to power reconnection...


as for putting your rack on rails i would likely suggest mounting them prior to carpet install, makes alot easier for maintaining the rack that way.


though personally i'm more for a segregated room layout for av gear easier to control room climate that way... not always easy air conning a 1x2 space too keep av gear cool..


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23038473
> 
> 
> i'd start looking at spring loaded spool cable winders.. similar to what you see for electrical extension cables..



Would you mind sharing some product info?


----------



## jac7788




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23038058
> 
> 
> 
> I'd wonder about the keyed door to the computer on the bottom. I've found those doors to be more trouble than they're worth. They typically require the key to close them, but allow the key to be removed when it's unlocked. This leads to the key falling out of the cylinder (and getting kicked under the rack...) This becomes an issue if you expect to use a drive for ripping or playing discs. You end up leaving the door unlocked and open all the time. This doesn't look all that great and leaves another path open for dust to get pulled into the case unfiltered. I say this because I've got those cases and am swapping them out for ones with side-hinged doors instead.



Thanks, the key lock is very flimsy, and luckily though the door stays closed while unlocked and is easily opened with a screwdriver, which is not an issue since it doesn't have an optical drive and I am rarely opening it.


My plan (at least it is now), is wait until all the closet construction is done so I know exactly how long to cut down the slack (some cables are 20ft too long). Also I have repositioned the gear in the rack numerous times until I got to a layout I was happy with. I originally wanted to custom make all RCA cables to length, but after making a few, ended up ordering from monoprice as close to the correct lengths I needed which will cut down on alot of the extra hanging off the back.


----------



## Neurorad

You can install a drywall access panel or recessed flush mount low voltage enclosure in the wall, behind the rack, above the cable pass through scoops, to hold your cable slack that you may use in the future, aka service loops. I picked up that tip from member 39 Cent Stamp.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

mark i'm not sure if there is a product on the market anywhere in the world that will auto coil your av and power cable, though what i was talking about was something similar to what you can buy in a electrical extension cable with a coiled feeder line.. using that same principle..


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23044913
> 
> 
> mark i'm not sure if there is a product on the market anywhere in the world that will auto coil your av and power cable, though what i was talking about was something similar to what you can buy in a electrical extension cable with a coiled feeder line.. using that same principle..


Cables for this sort of stuff aren't really designed to be moved all the time. Otherwise you risk eventually breaking the conductors inside the cabling. Or cause a connector failure on the equipment. Better to have things fixed in place.


----------



## avrignaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1400_100#post_21954180
> 
> 
> if you don't want discrete emitters, look at a harmony 900 or 1100 remote with the logitech RF blaster. It allows 2 or 4 IR "blasters" which each have 3 IR emitters in them fired in a 90 degree or so radius, to be used. The blaster is optional on the 1100, included with the 900



Any tips on the best place to find additional inexpensive blasters? I have a Home Theater Master RF/IR box that works great for me, but the cables are getting a bit beat up and broken in some cases.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

yes i know an av rack isn't suppose to be moved all the time bill, the point I was getting at that retractable cable is a better option if you're going to be pulling at your rack..


looking at the mess in the above photo I would say it was time to look at terminated cables with extension fly leads, in that sitrep..



you shouldn't be full of a mass cable like as a situation...


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23038058
> 
> 
> I'd wonder about the keyed door to the computer on the bottom. I've found those doors to be more trouble than they're worth. They typically require the key to close them, but allow the key to be removed when it's unlocked. This leads to the key falling out of the cylinder (and getting kicked under the rack...) This becomes an issue if you expect to use a drive for ripping or playing discs. You end up leaving the door unlocked and open all the time. This doesn't look all that great and leaves another path open for dust to get pulled into the case unfiltered. I say this because I've got those cases and am swapping them out for ones with side-hinged doors instead.



I used a small rare earth magnet to keep the door closed when not in use. I couldn't bear to have the keys left in the lock and the chance that they would get lost. If they weren't in the lock, I'd lose them somehow.


----------



## A9X-308

Post 1664 needs a _lot_ of looming and snaking. Lacing bars would greatly help to neaten it up.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mystic_sniper28*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1650#post_23050033
> 
> 
> yes i know an av rack isn't suppose to be moved all the time bill, the point I was getting at that retractable cable is a better option if you're going to be pulling at your rack..



My company used to (maybe still do) offer retractable cable management loops to deal with rack-mount servers on pull-out sliding rails. The cables don't retract, but the guide wire does. For this usage, if mounted higher up on the wall (or the rear of the rack, or both) these would pull the bundle up out of the way when the rack is slid back into place. When the rack is pulled out, the reel lets out to allow the cable to flatten out and extend...


I have no idea who manufactured the ones we use(d), but some searches led to these, which would do the trick:










http://hunter.ametek.com/products/product.cfm?ProductCategory_ID=4219&Product_Id=961 


Jeff


----------



## Neurorad

Mark, was this the item you tried that didn't work on carpet with the Slim5?











The wall mount retractor for cable bundle suspension was recently discussed at RC. The item is called a tool balancer, spring balancer, or tool retractor, and they're sold in multiple sizes by weight.


----------



## tential




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holyindian*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1560#post_22831958
> 
> 
> Neurorad, thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the MA ERK is a very solid and sturdy rack. I know its the side walls are non-removable, but i dont see any real life value to removable sides, Chris at CustomAVRacks felt the same, in fact i think it gives a very solid strong hold to the entire frame structure. I was able to use velcro and zipties attached to the inner wall for cable management as well, looks really neat. will post pics of cabling as well.
> 
> We plan to live in this current house for two more years hence the rack will be sitting in the living room, after that we move to our new home with dedicated theater in the basement, then I will be adding another rack along with this for home automation controllers and holding 5 other amplifiers (Emotiva).
> 
> 
> Yes the LCD Monitor is a Belkin Titan 17" Dual-Rail LCD Rack (model no. F1DC101C-US)
> 
> It has dual rails, one for the keyboard and another for the lcd, either can be slided in an out as per requirement, one of the pictures show the keyboard and lcd slide out togather, and another shows the keyboard slide in with just only the lcd out, this way i can use an on screen monitoring for security cams, four view in grid works like a charm.
> 
> The main intent of this onboard lcd monitor was for controlling the SuperMicro 24Bay 72TB Windows Home Server machine for updates and maintainence of the media server, but now i am making use of it in multiple ways. I think its a must add on.



Did I read that correctly? You have 24 3TB Hds?


----------



## holyindian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tential*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23057387
> 
> 
> Did I read that correctly? You have 24 3TB Hds?



Yes that's correct. They are in the SuperMicro 24 Bay 2011 Windows Home Server in FlexRaid array.


----------



## tential

Jesus..... that's my dream, What do you have stored on that gosh. How much of it is even full? 24 3TB drives is around 2640 dollars lol thats a LOT of cash. I wish I had that kinda cash for drives.


My small dream is 12 TBs currently. I plan on getting 3 4TB drives for 450 dollars. Not as cheap per gigabyte as 3 TB drives but I want them all to be the same size when 4TBs drop more in price. Currently though I have to buy the 4TB external drives though and scrape the case since the hard drive market is so wacked out.


----------



## landshark1

Here's mine.


----------



## OPPIZ

Now that's a masterpiece! I've been wanting to see how the new Denon receivers look racked. DIY layout & install?

Are the media shelving & rack open or can they be concealed by some kind of door? If open, might I suggest adding these( http://www.customavrack.com/Products/1160-middle-atlantic-ta-black-brushed-and-anodized-trim-strip.aspx ). Are you using something like this( http://www.customavrack.com/category/247-middle-atlantic-duct-cool-exhaust-duct.aspx ), for ventilation? Once again, congrats on the rack & thanks for sharing.












edit: Found the answers to my questions at your HT 2.0 link...


----------



## landshark1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23060674
> 
> 
> Now that's a masterpiece! I've been wanting to see how the new Denon receivers look racked. DIY layout & install?
> 
> Are the media shelving & rack open or can they be concealed by some kind of door? If open, might I suggest adding these( http://www.customavrack.com/Products/1160-middle-atlantic-ta-black-brushed-and-anodized-trim-strip.aspx ). Are you using something like this( http://www.customavrack.com/category/247-middle-atlantic-duct-cool-exhaust-duct.aspx ), for ventilation? Once again, congrats on the rack & thanks for sharing.


Yes, designed & installed by yours truly. And yes, I do have the trim strip, just need to cut and install it.










The rack's back is in an open room, so no extra fans needed.


----------



## dvmiller

Wow, not sure I should follow Gary's masterpiece but, someone has to so here goes!


Two weeks ago my future son-in-law set up my HT and server PC's which inspired me to start working on the equipment racks. With the closet space and no access to the rear of the racks I planned to use drawer guides so the racks can be pulled out for access. I bought guides rated for 100 lbs, some 1x3 & 1x12 pine and Rubbermaid shelving at HD. I started by building the "drawers" and installing the guides on the 2x6 rails.

  


The rack frames are 55 x 20 1/2 inches with interior width of 19 inches. I settled on drilling 1/2 holes for pins to hold the shelves. Alot of drilling and painting some 240 of them. I went this route because it seemed the least visible. I painted the closet interior flat Mouse Ears Black.

   


After quite a bit of adjusting and installing the frames and trim they were painted satin Mouse Ears Black. Then I started installing shelves and equipment.

  


The completed racks are loaded with equipment. I refer to the left one as the HT rack with the PS3, receiver/amps, DVD and CD changers; the right as the IT rack with the networking gear, monitor, HTPC and NAS/server. Only the IT equipment is up and running for now. A couple of items remain to be added: the cable box/HD/DVR and the UPS/surge protector.

 


I added grills above and below the racks for air flow and am planning to add fans controlled by a thermostat. The racks are fairly heavy so I will build a stand to support them when pulled out.


----------



## Helheim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landshark1*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23060242
> 
> 
> Here's mine.



Are those cooling units under each amp? If so which ones? Thanks.


----------



## DrZaus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landshark1*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23060242
> 
> 
> Here's mine.



What size is that rack?


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Helheim*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23096822
> 
> 
> Are those cooling units under each amp? If so which ones? Thanks.



Those are 1U vented blanks from MA...


----------



## Done Deal DR

Does anyone have any experience with an active thermal management fan system on a MA rack using UQFP-4DRA style fans?

 


I just bought a MA ERK-2720 rack that I will be recessing into a wall. I've already purchased a UQFP-4DRA that I will install at the top of the rack to exhaust the hot air that naturally rises, and I'm also in the process of hunting down a UQFP-4RIS to install as a forced intake at the bottom of the rack. I've also purchased the vent block kit from MA so that the fans are as efficient and effective as possible.


My question is this: Where should I install the temperature probe(s) for the fans at? At the top of the rack? In the middle of the rack? What makes the most sense?


----------



## landshark1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrZaus*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23097262
> 
> 
> What size is that rack?


Slim 5-37U



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Helheim*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23096822
> 
> 
> Are those cooling units under each amp? If so which ones? Thanks.


They are just a vented 1U blank plates.


----------



## Done Deal DR

The exact model of those vented blanks is EVT1 I believe.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/panels/vpanels.htm#3


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23099107
> 
> 
> My question is this: Where should I install the temperature probe(s) for the fans at? At the top of the rack? In the middle of the rack? What makes the most sense?


Presumably you're trying to cool the equipment that's most likely to be harmed by heat. Or perhaps the largest generator of heat. The question you have to ask is whether or not the airflow can be managed to accomplish that goal. You could crank up the fan all you like but if the air isn't being circulated such that it pulls heat away from the desired source then it won't matter.


So I'm guessing you've got some experimenting to do, and it's likely you'd want to start a new message thread for this, not post here in the 'show me' thread. A separate post might also garner more reads.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23100165
> 
> 
> Presumably you're trying to cool the equipment that's most likely to be harmed by heat. Or perhaps the largest generator of heat. The question you have to ask is whether or not the airflow can be managed to accomplish that goal. You could crank up the fan all you like but if the air isn't being circulated such that it pulls heat away from the desired source then it won't matter.
> 
> 
> So I'm guessing you've got some experimenting to do, and it's likely you'd want to start a new message thread for this, not post here in the 'show me' thread. A separate post might also garner more reads.



Understood, I only posted here because it's 57 pages of primarily people that own and have experience with racks. The only experience I have with racks is in a data center environment where sound is of no concern and the entire room is AC cooled, and I didn't design those racks to begin with.


I'm only trying to keep my equipment within operating temperature range. I don't have anything currently that gives off significant heat. Pioneer SC-61 receiver (class D amp, runs very cool for a receiver), Oppo BDP-103, fanless Cisco small business switch, MA PDU, and a cable DVR. In the future it's possible I might add a future gen gaming system, or maybe even a small server that could give off more heat. I've read the MA thermal management white papers and I'm trying to achieve something akin to page 27, but of course I haven't ever seen it done in person so naturally it's nice to hear from someone who has done something similar.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

most peeps i come across tend have a hvac dedicated to the rack area


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23100307
> 
> 
> Understood, I only posted here because it's 57 pages of primarily people that own and have experience with racks


True, but then it gets lost in 57 other pages of things unrelated to it. Not being pedantic here, just suggesting a thread on it's own might help get a more focused conversation going on it. Especially if someone later comes searching on terms that match what's in the thread. Otherwise they end up wading through 57 pages (or more) of stuff unrelated to it.


Given that it's difficult to 'spot treat' ventilation I think a lot of installations focus more on having basic convection channeling associated with the equipment itself and then treat the whole space. As in, make sure the vents on the gear is left clear and placed to avoid being placed excessively close to heat generating units. As in, don't rack the disc player tight above the amp, etc. While I've had some stuff that really cranks out heat (24 drive NAS) I usually focus on just getting the air in/out of it and fall back on a thermostat integrated with the nearby occupied space to handle the load.


Now, this assumes sufficient air flow both back AND front. Given we're hoping to integrate a glass door in the new setup then things may change. We will probably have to integrate something that actively promotes air flow INTO the front cavity between the door and the equipment. This to enable the device's own air flow paths to do their thing and not be starved for air by a closed door. But since the door will be on the front then the air probably won't be able to come in from that side. This complicates the flow path along with finding a source for it. Otherwise it'd just be recirculating the nearby air, which would probably be better than nothing but not worth buying fans if that's all that happened.


Given what those units cost compared to traditional in-line fans like those from Fantech I'd really have to KNOW they'd do the job. Otherwise I'd go with HVAC treatments instead.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23102263
> 
> 
> True, but then it gets lost in 57 other pages of things unrelated to it. Not being pedantic here, just suggesting a thread on it's own might help get a more focused conversation going on it. Especially if someone later comes searching on terms that match what's in the thread. Otherwise they end up wading through 57 pages (or more) of stuff unrelated to it.
> 
> 
> Given that it's difficult to 'spot treat' ventilation I think a lot of installations focus more on having basic convection channeling associated with the equipment itself and then treat the whole space. As in, make sure the vents on the gear is left clear and placed to avoid being placed excessively close to heat generating units. As in, don't rack the disc player tight above the amp, etc. While I've had some stuff that really cranks out heat (24 drive NAS) I usually focus on just getting the air in/out of it and fall back on a thermostat integrated with the nearby occupied space to handle the load.
> 
> 
> Now, this assumes sufficient air flow both back AND front. Given we're hoping to integrate a glass door in the new setup then things may change. We will probably have to integrate something that actively promotes air flow INTO the front cavity between the door and the equipment. This to enable the device's own air flow paths to do their thing and not be starved for air by a closed door. But since the door will be on the front then the air probably won't be able to come in from that side. This complicates the flow path along with finding a source for it. Otherwise it'd just be recirculating the nearby air, which would probably be better than nothing but not worth buying fans if that's all that happened.
> 
> 
> Given what those units cost compared to traditional in-line fans like those from Fantech I'd really have to KNOW they'd do the job. Otherwise I'd go with HVAC treatments instead.



Dude chill out. This guy asked a question i\n this thread just like you have in the past. From what I remember you have no experience with racks other than what you have read on the forums. You were asking all the noob questions and people were helping you out, and now that somebody else is asking the questions you tell them to go start their own thread!




To the question.......I have temp sensor fan system in my rack and I put the sensor at the top where the rack is the hottest. I do not have any vents in the front of my rack and all the cool air come from the bottom of the rack. This way there is natural convection and when the temps gets to 85 of above the fan system kicks in. I have been using the setup for a while and have not had any issues. My temp never ever reaches 86. I hope this helps


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23102387
> 
> 
> Dude chill out.


You read it wrong, it's not a chill out. It's just a suggestion. It's a conversation that certainly bears drawing more posts. Otherwise why bother even having threads under their own posts? Why not just one huge thread? I'm joking, of course.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23102387
> 
> 
> To the question.......I have temp sensor fan system in my rack and I put the sensor at the top where the rack is the hottest. I do not have any vents in the front of my rack and all the cool air come from the bottom of the rack. This way there is natural convection and when the temps gets to 85 of above the fan system kicks in. I have been using the setup for a while and have not had any issues. My temp never ever reaches 86. I hope this helps



Thanks!


This is what logic was telling me, put the sensor at the top where all of the hot air will rise to so that the fan can exhaust it if needed. It appears I'm doing something similar to yours, where I will have no openings in any of the rack spaces between the top and bottom fans, that is also what the thermal white papers stated to do. As of right now I only have the top exhaust fan and am still shopping for decent price on my intake fan, so for the time being I have an EVT2 vented blank for the bottom to help pull in cool air if needed... I'm wondering where I should put that sensor? Probably at the top as well.


I hope to have everything roughed in by this weekend, and get it drywalled and everything within a few weeks after that and I'll get some pictures up.


Also, regarding posting in this thread... I've read through this entire thread multiple times. There's been plenty of chatter which is why I felt okay posting in it. If it was 100% pictures and no talking then I wouldn't have posted here.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23102464
> 
> 
> You read it wrong, it's not a chill out. It's just a suggestion. It's a conversation that certainly bears drawing more posts. Otherwise why bother even having threads under their own posts? Why not just one huge thread? I'm joking, of course.




Now you are off topic and are filling this thread with extra non needed posts when and answer to his question would have taken up less space.


> Quote:
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> This is what logic was telling me, put the sensor at the top where all of the hot air will rise to so that the fan can exhaust it if needed. It appears I'm doing something similar to yours, where I will have no openings in any of the rack spaces between the top and bottom fans, that is also what the thermal white papers stated to do. As of right now I only have the top exhaust fan and am still shopping for decent price on my intake fan, so for the time being I have an EVT2 vented blank for the bottom to help pull in cool air if needed... I'm wondering where I should put that sensor? Probably at the top as well.
> 
> 
> I hope to have everything roughed in by this weekend, and get it drywalled and everything within a few weeks after that and I'll get some pictures up.
> 
> 
> Also, regarding posting in this thread... I've read through this entire thread multiple times. There's been plenty of chatter which is why I felt okay posting in it. If it was 100% pictures and no talking then I wouldn't have posted here.ReplyQuote Multi 0



I would put both sensors at the top or run both fans in parallel from one thermostat switch. Don't worry about the other guys comments. There are plenty of people on here that will help you out. Besides....at least you are not asking questions that you have not researched first like he was earlier in this thread. Are those white papers you are talking about the ones from the Middle atlantic website? If they are, those are good to go by and are informative. If they are not, go check them out. The other comment that I disagree with that I read from somebody else was "most people use hvac in the av closet". This is not true either. Most people on here do not have hvac going to their racks.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23104309
> 
> 
> I would put both sensors at the top or run both fans in parallel from one thermostat switch. Don't worry about the other guys comments. There are plenty of people on here that will help you out. Besides....at least you are not asking questions that you have not researched first like he was earlier in this thread. Are those white papers you are talking about the ones from the Middle atlantic website? If they are, those are good to go by and are informative. If they are not, go check them out. The other comment that I disagree with that I read from somebody else was "most people use hvac in the av closet". This is not true either. Most people on here do not have hvac going to their racks.



Perfect, I am going to try both at the top as you said. And yes, I was referring to the Middle Atlantic thermal white papers, I found it very informative as well but it's always nice to have somebody back it up with real world use and answer questions like the one you just did for me that isn't explicitly stated anywhere in those white papers.


----------



## Pain Infliction

What fans or fan kit are you using?


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landshark1*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23060242



Nice touch with the LT-1RA light at the top and the black replacement side pieces on the Emotiva amps. Middle Atlantic makes a product called "TA", which are the black anoized trim strips. They come in full rack height and snap fit into position over the screw heads which gives you a cleaner aesthetic which seems to be right up your alley. Here's a link: http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/trimstrp.htm


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landshark1*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23060242
> 
> 
> Here's mine.



Geez, that stack looks really familiar... Landshark, take a look back in the thread, I have a before-and-after shot with the trim strips installed. I was surprised at how much better it really does look...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1320#post_21848689 


(I also swapped out the Emotiva silver plates by the time I took the "after" shot as well)


Jeff


----------



## mn_hokie

Where'd you get the trim strips from? I'm guessing they work with any standard rails?


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mn_hokie*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23105103
> 
> 
> Where'd you get the trim strips from? I'm guessing they work with any standard rails?


As TMcG said, they're a standard MA part. I don't see why they wouldn't work on any rack. I got mine from HomeTech, but any MA source can get them...


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23104686
> 
> 
> Geez, that stack looks really familiar... Landshark, take a look back in the thread, I have a before-and-after shot with the trim strips installed. I was surprised at how much better it really does look...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1320#post_21848689
> 
> 
> (I also swapped out the Emotiva silver plates by the time I took the "after" shot as well)
> 
> 
> Jeff



It figures you had the Trim strips Jeff. I honestly didn't recall seeing it in your thread and I have admittedly not combed through all 57 pages of this thread!!






Landshark just had such a clean, modern look going on with all the custom RSH shelves it just popped into my head that trim strips would be an easy call to make. They do make quite a difference.


----------



## landshark1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvmiller*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23094358
> 
> 
> Wow, not sure I should follow Gary's masterpiece but, someone has to so here goes!
> 
> 
> Two weeks ago my future son-in-law set up my HT and server PC's which inspired me to start working on the equipment racks. With the closet space and no access to the rear of the racks I planned to use drawer guides so the racks can be pulled out for access. I bought guides rated for 100 lbs, some 1x3 & 1x12 pine and Rubbermaid shelving at HD. I started by building the "drawers" and installing the guides on the 2x6 rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack frames are 55 x 20 1/2 inches with interior width of 19 inches. I settled on drilling 1/2 holes for pins to hold the shelves. Alot of drilling and painting some 240 of them. I went this route because it seemed the least visible. I painted the closet interior flat Mouse Ears Black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After quite a bit of adjusting and installing the frames and trim they were painted satin Mouse Ears Black. Then I started installing shelves and equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed racks are loaded with equipment. I refer to the left one as the HT rack with the PS3, receiver/amps, DVD and CD changers; the right as the IT rack with the networking gear, monitor, HTPC and NAS/server. Only the IT equipment is up and running for now. A couple of items remain to be added: the cable box/HD/DVR and the UPS/surge protector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added grills above and below the racks for air flow and am planning to add fans controlled by a thermostat. The racks are fairly heavy so I will build a stand to support them when pulled out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dale


That's an excellent build!! I wish I'm that handy....


----------



## landshark1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23104686
> 
> 
> Geez, that stack looks really familiar... Landshark, take a look back in the thread, I have a before-and-after shot with the trim strips installed. I was surprised at how much better it really does look...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1320#post_21848689
> 
> 
> (I also swapped out the Emotiva silver plates by the time I took the "after" shot as well)
> 
> 
> Jeff


Can't you tell I'm modeling mine after yours Jeff?!









And yes, I've already got the trim strips, just haven't have time to cut & put them on.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1680#post_23104495
> 
> 
> What fans or fan kit are you using?



UQFP-4DRA for exhaust, which I have already... and hoping to find a UQFP-4RIS for intake duties.


----------



## sybarite365

Hi Billmac,

Sent you an e-mail regarding your fab home entertainment center.


----------



## tiguej




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobdoggy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1350#post_21890906



Can you tell me what rack this is? Also, does it come with all of the shelves and blanks?


Thanks,


Jim


----------



## mn_hokie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23173829
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what rack this is? Also, does it come with all of the shelves and blanks?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim




Jim,


It looks like this rack has custom face plates from MA. I have them on my rack as well. MA has a database of the majority of products, but will also custom cut for electronics that aren't in their database.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23173829
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what rack this is? Also, does it come with all of the shelves and blanks?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim



It looks like an Middle Atlantic WRK rack. Shelves and blanks are sold separately.
*WRK Series 19" Gangable Enclosures* http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/gang/wrkg.htm 

or
*WRK-SA 19" Stand-Alone Enclosures* http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/sa/wrksa.htm


----------



## tiguej

Thanks for the feedback. It is tough to decide which one would work best for my application. Here is the equipment I currently have:


Pioneer SC-55

Oppo 103 Blu-Ray

DirecTV

MR4000 PANAMAX - 8-OUTLET SURGE PROTECTOR

Sony PS2


I want to make sure I have some extra room for future growth.


I saw that Amazon had the Sanus Classic CFR2136-B1 36U Rack for $899 with free shipping.


Product Features

Pre-assembled component rack

Includes two 1U shelves

Three 2U shelves

Three 3U shelves

Two 1U blanking panels

Product Dimensions 23.6 x 23.6 x 70.5 inches


Any help would be appreciated.



Thanks,


Jim


----------



## bobdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23173829
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what rack this is? Also, does it come with all of the shelves and blanks?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim



It is a Middle Atlantic WRK. Shelves are the MA custom ones.


Here is a current pic BDP 105 replaced the 83 and another QSC replaced the Hafler.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23175018
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. It is tough to decide which one would work best for my application. Here is the equipment I currently have:
> 
> 
> Poineer SC-55
> 
> Oppo 103 Bluray
> 
> DirecTV
> 
> MR4000 PANAMAX - 8-OUTLET SURGE PROTECTOR
> 
> Sony PS2
> 
> 
> I want to make sure I have some extra room for future growth.
> 
> 
> I saw that Amazon had the Sanus Classic CFR2136-B1 36U Rack for $899 with free shipping.
> 
> 
> Product Features
> 
> Pre-assembled component rack
> 
> Includes two 1U shelves
> 
> Three 2U shelves
> 
> Three 3U shelves
> 
> Two 1U blanking panels
> 
> Product Dimensions 23.6 x 23.6 x 70.5 inches
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim



The CFR2136 should be plenty big enough, for your current & future needs.

Take a look at the Omnimount RE42 also, it's taller & cheaper.
https://omnimount.box.net/shared/static/s5m26nsifl.pdf 
http://www.omnimount.com/products/rack_systems_and_carts/rack_systems/re42/ http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004QMNQRW/ref=nosim/97707824rg2977-20?s=merchant&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER 


Sanus & Omnimount both offer pretty neat packaged deals, which are more affordable than Middle Atlantic product.


----------



## tiguej

Thanks for your feedback and the links to the Omnimount. The RE42 looks great but my Pioneer SC-55 is 21" wide and this is only 19" wide. I really wanted the 42 as it would fit my HT perfect. Ill call them to see what they have that would fit my receiver.


Thanks,


Jim

*Update:*


I talked to Omnimount and they said they only offer 19" wide racks. I guess I will see what Sanus has.


*Another update:* The websites all show the Pioneer SC-55 as being 21x21x12. That is actually the box size. The width of the Pioneers is actually 17". This rack will be perfect.


Thanks again for your help!!!!


Jim


----------



## Neurorad

Hehe. All manufactured AV racks discussed in this forum are standard 19" wide. Be careful buying eBay/craigslist, as 23" is another standard (telco).


I almost pulled the trigger on 44U MA RCS last week, and realized it wouldn't fit through the door. Tough decisions.


----------



## tiguej

I'm glad I checked it out. I was pretty close to picking up the Sanus Classic CFR2136-B1 36U. The great feedback from this group helped me to choose the one that will be perfect in my HT. CompSource has it for just over $740 including shipping. Seems like a pretty good price.


Good luck in your search.


Jim


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23176268
> 
> 
> Thanks for your feedback and the links to the Omnimount. The RE42 looks great but my Pioneer SC-55 is 21" wide and this is only 19" wide. I really wanted the 42 as it would fit my HT perfect. Ill call them to see what they have that would fit my receiver.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim
> 
> *Update:*
> 
> 
> I talked to Omnimount and they said they only offer 19" wide racks. I guess I will see what Sanus has.
> 
> 
> *Another update:* The websites all show the Pioneer SC-55 as being 21x21x12. That is actually the box size. The width of the Pioneers is actually 17". This rack will be perfect.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help!!!!
> 
> 
> Jim


I'm glad you finally discovered the actual AVR width!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23176727
> 
> 
> Hehe. All manufactured AV racks discussed in this forum are standard 19" wide.




Ditto what Neurorad said, also most consumer electronics( A/V receivers, Blu-ray players, etc. ) use a standard width around 17".


----------



## andyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiguej*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23176268
> 
> 
> Thanks for your feedback and the links to the Omnimount. The RE42 looks great but my Pioneer SC-55 is 21" wide and this is only 19" wide. I really wanted the 42 as it would fit my HT perfect. Ill call them to see what they have that would fit my receiver.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jim
> 
> *Update:*
> 
> 
> I talked to Omnimount and they said they only offer 19" wide racks. I guess I will see what Sanus has.
> 
> 
> *Another update:* The websites all show the Pioneer SC-55 as being 21x21x12. That is actually the box size. The width of the Pioneers is actually 17". This rack will be perfect.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help!!!!
> 
> 
> Jim


I have a SC-05 model and I'm 100% sure it's the same size as the SC-55 model. Mine fits fine in my rack...19" wide rack.


----------



## Pain Infliction

99% of all av gear will fit in a 19" rack. The depth is a different story. I had to get a 26" deep rack for my gear.


----------



## Soundman2580

I prefer no where near the screen. In the dark, dancing lights are distracting. I built my theater room with an alcove off to the righ for the equipment so it's real close, usable and yet out of sight.

check out my st for in wall ideas in the gallery www.robertssoundideas.com


----------



## Soundman2580

Bobdoggy-- Impressive rack. Here's mine before the theater r  enovations took place.


----------



## Sir Meili

Here is my rack as it stands today. It's still a work in progress (I need t to add some trim to it):

 
 



And here is a quick shot of the back. I can get more detailed pics if anyone wants, or you can go to my closet build thread below.:

 



I put up a thread of most of the process from studs to today if you'd like to take a look. Its here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1470115/my-home-theater-rack-and-equipment-room


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^ Nice floors! Looking into something like that as well. Your rack looks good and and like the tape idea you have inside the rack. Great job.


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23251531
> 
> 
> ^^^ Nice floors! Looking into something like that as well. Your rack looks good and and like the tape idea you have inside the rack. Great job.



Thanks, those floors are those 6"x24" porcelain wood style tiles laid on a 45 degree angle. That hallway takes a 90 degree and I didn't think having the floors laid at a 90 degree would look good (one part of the hallway I ti thought would look weird). The guy who laid it did a pretty good job (I'm still having them come out and fix small issues), but they laid it like a real wood floor. That is to day that the grout lines aren't in a specific pattern. A lot of times the tile guys lay them in a brick pattern so that the grout lines line up every other row. I didn't want that, and they didn't want to do it that way (Which was great). They were also one of the few companies willing to jack up the air handler and lay the tile under it (as the tile continues into that equipment room).


And the tape was just one of those inspired moments you get when trying to solve a problem. If you're gonna try it, realize that I used electrical tape in the center of the blue tape (sticky sides together) so that you wouldn't see blue between the gaps. Since people go into that room to get stuff out of the printer, I'm trying my best to close up those gaps to prevent light bleed. It won't matter much once I get the hinged panel over the rack.


Thanks again for the kind comments







I spent many an hour going through this thread for ideas


----------



## JamesVG81

So I was at Good Will and picked up this for 50 bucks. Will replace my current rack. And yes it came with all those cat 5e patch panels for 50 bucks, exhaust fans, and power bar.


----------



## BllDo

Now that is one heck of a score. Nice find.


----------



## JamesVG81

Yea I'm pretty happy about it.. Going to paint the inside brackets black. Also my wife wants me to paint it to look like RD D2 lol. The rack is in the room the popcorn machine and stuff is going in. So she wants it painted something movie style .


----------



## A9X-308

Racks are easy to pick up cheap. Look on ebay in the city nearest you and you'll no doubt find many for very little, especially if they are in the central business district. If you have a vehicle capable of moving them, you can often pick them up for the starting price of 99c as people don't want the hassle of going there to collect and so don't bid them up. Sellers are usually jst looking for them to be gone - they may makeno money on the sale but they don't have to spend time or effort to get rid ofsomething unwanted.

I picked up one similar with many cat 5 plates, 12 way power board, several shelves incl one sliding for $1 recently in Sydney CBD and the seller, the owner of a large commercial space being renovated for new tennants wouldn't even take my $ as he was happy that it was going to be used and not go to landfill. This was not the first similar bargain found, but the fifth, all for some patience and effort. If I'd purchased what I have new, I'd be over 2k out of pocket, but have less than $100 and some time and sweat equity.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *A9X-308*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1710#post_23305415
> 
> 
> Racks are easy to pick up cheap. .



agreed, I picked up a SunFire rack for under $100


----------



## tbraden32

I see lots of racks on CList all the time, but not sure if they would work. Are most racks compatible with adding shelving and stuff to make them functional? Most look like older server racks for computers, and not Audio.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbraden32*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1700_100#post_23306388
> 
> 
> I see lots of racks on CList all the time, but not sure if they would work. Are most racks compatible with adding shelving and stuff to make them functional? Most look like older server racks for computers, and not Audio.


Computer racks and audio racks are the same. The difference is what you put in them, and some dimensions. They are all a standard 17" between rails wide, but the actual width, depth and height of rack cabinets varies a lot. Some are wider to allow for increased airflow for applications with a lot of heat to remove, and the depth varies depending upon what a customer wants to put in it. Most audio gear is well under 500mm deep, so a rack that deep or more between front and rear rails will carry almost all audio/video gear used at home. A tape measure will show if you have a differing requirement. Once you buy one, just purchase shelves of the correct depth.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/main.htm


----------



## Tedd

Don't you mean 19" as standard width?


----------



## olyteddy




> Quote:
> ...Computer racks and audio racks are the same. The difference is what you put in them, and some dimensions. They are all a standard 17" between rails wide,





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1720_40#post_23306440
> 
> 
> Don't you mean 19" as standard width?


Not necessarily...


> Quote:
> A 19-inch rack is a standardized frame or enclosure for mounting multiple equipment modules. Each module has a front panel that is 19 inches (482.6 mm) wide, including edges or ears that protrude on each side which allow the module to be fastened to the rack frame with screws.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1700_100#post_23306440
> 
> 
> Don't you mean 19" as standard width?


Yes, typo.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *olyteddy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1700_100#post_23306957
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily...


And how is that inconsistent with what I wrote in #1736?


----------



## Keith Mickunas

Also keep in mind some computer racks have square holes. They can be used also, there are nuts that can be used with the square holes, but this is something you need to keep an eye out for.


----------



## Neurorad

23" racks are also a standard. If shopping off CL, bring a tape measure, if rack model # unknown.


I prefer the square holes, functionally. Cage nut stripped? Toss it, and grab another.


I picked up a server rack from a university surplus center, destined for scrap. Also harvested a bunch of shelves.


----------



## A9X-308




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1700_100#post_23307202
> 
> 
> 23" racks are also a standard.


Really? I've never seen anything but 19" in near 30 years in electronics.

Worthwhile info though for others to make sure they don't buy something they can't use.


----------



## LeBon

23 or 24" racks are used in the U.S. mainly by the telephone companies. They are mostly 2-post racks.


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23307202
> 
> 
> I prefer the square holes, functionally. Cage nut stripped? Toss it, and grab another.



I was going to say the same thing....Also, my rack used M6 cage nuts (it's just what I started with), but the MA trim strips used 10/32 screws. I just had to buy some new cage nuts, replace them where needed, and I was done. Normally there is no need to use both types, I just didn't want to change out all the ones I had already done on the back side of the rack.


----------



## Tedd

How many 23" audio video components have you guys ever seen?


I own one, a 23" wide power conditioner. I have seen rack ears for 23" racks as an option, but life is simpler to

stick with a 19" rack..


----------



## Neurorad

There is also a new 'half width' rack standard, released in the last couple years. 10 5/8" width, for smaller components.

http://www.extron.com/company/article.aspx?id=hrss-standardpr 


It was about 5 years ago that an AVSer bought a 23" telco relay rack, mistakenly, for his AV components. Made it work with some 2x4 wood extension pieces. Pic has been removed.


----------



## wkearney99

I have one 23" shelf I mistakenly purchased. Everything else is 19".


I actually prefer the round hole unthreaded kind of rack. Not the square hole, nor the kind with threads on the rack rails themselves. The threaded kind can strip. But at least then you can add a cage nut to them. The square ones are a pain in the ass to add the nuts into the holes when you've got a full rack. Or when you want to move things around without tearing everything apart. Yeah, you generally shouldn't do it that way... With the round cage nut kind you can slide a nut up/down a position or two without pulling the gear out. Word of advice, buy double the amount of cage nuts you think you'll need... you'll still come up short.


Also note there are different kinds of screws. There are even some that have a post that screws in and a knurled nut on the face. This way you can screw in the post and have a point on which to rest the gear while muscling it into place. Just be sure to use the SAME thread size, whichever style you chose.


Word of advice, put anything that might require service on sliding rails. Yes, the rails can be pricey. But the ease with which you can service stuff far offsets the hassle of having to pull gear totally out of the rack whenever you need to change something in it. As in, computers that might be getting upgrades. There are a variety of schemes for dealing with the wires. Some are 'less worse' than others but they're all a bit of an adventure.


For items less likely to get altered, or ones that have hard connections to in-wall wiring, you're probably better off not putting them on sliding rails. This so you don't wreck the wiring and connectors.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23309854
> 
> 
> I have one 23" shelf I mistakenly purchased. Everything else is 19".
> 
> 
> I actually prefer the round hole unthreaded kind of rack. Not the square hole, nor the kind with threads on the rack rails themselves. With the round cage nut kind you can slide a nut up/down a position or two without pulling the gear out. .



I'm not familiar with these. i've used threaded and square cahe nut. Could you post a link of the round ones you described?


----------



## wkearney99

The hole is round, the nut itself is typically a normal hex shape but welded to a spring steel L-bracket that clamps to the rack rail.


I believe these are also referred to as slide or clip nuts. Here's an example of them:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.h...0-32-Rack-Mounting-Steel-Carton/dp/B0012XRVYC  


Here's a couple of informative link discussing screws and racks in general:
http://www.server-racks.com/rack-screws-10-32-12-24-m6.html 
http://www.server-racks.com/why-all-racks-are-not-created-equal.html


----------



## wkearney99

And to clarify on rack slides, you need slides that fit the case in question. Not all cases are the same width. As a result the slides will need to deal with getting that case to fit. The narrower cases generally aren't too much of a problem, as the mounting bracket for the slide will have some leeway on the mounting holes (either open or elongated). But a case that's wide will have trouble fitting in the rack AND having slides next to it. The vendors for these wider cases will often sell slides specifically designed for them. Also note that a very heavy case may require more than one set of slides. I've got a very heavy 24-drive server that requires two sets of very narrow slides to fit in the rack. Just one set of slides wouldn't handle the weight, especially not when extended.


----------



## NickTheGreat

I never see racks on Craigslist or Ebay. I emailed a fella a while back about one, but he flaked out on me


----------



## BroncoSport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NickTheGreat*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23310902
> 
> 
> I never see racks on Craigslist or Ebay. I emailed a fella a while back about one, but he flaked out on me



What are you searching for on eBay? I did a quick search and found a ton of racks. Here is the link, take your pick: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=server+rack&_frs=1


----------



## NickTheGreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BroncoSport*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1720_40#post_23311327
> 
> 
> What are you searching for on eBay? I did a quick search and found a ton of racks. Here is the link, take your pick: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=server+rack&_frs=1



Admittedly I don't use eBay much, I look on Craigslist to try to score something cheap. This morning I looked on eBay but was searching local to me. Though with the shipping options on there I shouldn't be so scared


----------



## jedimastergrant

I guess I got lucky then. Literally my very first search on Craigslist turned up a used MA WRK 37-26 LRD just a few minutes from my front door. I shot a PM to neurorad to confirm it was an acceptable Rack and went to pick it up over the weekend. The search terms that neurorad provided were helpful and the use of search tempest as well.


Then I searched for rack shelves and found someone with brand new shelves for a reasonable price who is practically my neighbor. Going to pick them up soon as well.


Looking forward to finishing my room and installing the gear in my rack. I will post some pics when it is done.


----------



## Neurorad

I'm glad you like the WRK. It's a great rack, for a freestanding unit. It may be hard, though, to get that 'built in', flush-mount look, with a WRK; it will be much easier than with the wall-mount rack you were also considering.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jedimastergrant*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23311529
> 
> 
> I guess I got lucky then. Literally my very first search on Craigslist turned up a used MA WRK 37-26 LRD just a few minutes from my front door. I shot a PM to neurorad to confirm it was an acceptable Rack and went to pick it up over the weekend. The search terms that neurorad provided were helpful and the use of search tempest as well.
> 
> 
> Then I searched for rack shelves and found someone with brand new shelves for a reasonable price who is practically my neighbor. Going to pick them up soon as well.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to finishing my room and installing the gear in my rack. I will post some pics when it is done.



Wow! I need to move to Kansas


----------



## wkearney99

Also check with local computer or electronic recyclers or salvage places. I picked up a pair of Sun racks for my gear reasonably cheap from one across town from me.


The other rack, the one I'll be using for the HT gear, I picked up via craigslist. If you've got an SUV (and some bungee cords) you can get a rack home in one. So search a little farther than just your immediate home town. Mine was from south of Woodbridge, a good hour's drive. The drive back with an open rear hatch was entertaining. The soundproofing on the Grand Cherokee really hides the tremendous roar the Hemi makes when you floor it on the highway...


----------



## jsketto

These racks all look amazing...I am definitely interested in the Middle Atlantic racks.....Question for rack owners...i have a fanless HTPC...I built it so i wouldnt hear ANYTHING while i was watching my movies....arent all those racks with their fans noisy? especially since many of them are in the same room with you??


----------



## Pain Infliction

There are quiet fans. If I were you I would put some in my PC as well.


----------



## markrubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsketto*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23435933
> 
> 
> These racks all look amazing...I am definitely interested in the Middle Atlantic racks.....Question for rack owners...i have a fanless HTPC...I built it so i wouldnt hear ANYTHING while i was watching my movies....arent all those racks with their fans noisy? especially since many of them are in the same room with you??



I tried for all quiet gear in my racks too, but it seems impossible anymore: some components have such noisy fans it seems like they added it as an afterthought: I usually end up changing the fan to a quiet type if I can as mentioned.


so now I just think of it as 'white noise' and deal with it...


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsketto*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23435933
> 
> 
> These racks all look amazing...I am definitely interested in the Middle Atlantic racks.....Question for rack owners...i have a fanless HTPC...I built it so i wouldnt hear ANYTHING while i was watching my movies....*arent all those racks with their fans noisy? especially since many of them are in the same room with you??*


*Not really, I also replace any audible fans with near silent(*


----------



## jsketto

Thanks guys for the inputs!! I guess just getting quiet fans and dealing with the noise seems to be the consensus....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23436024
> 
> 
> There are quiet fans. If I were you I would put some in my PC as well.


why should i put a fan in my fanless case?


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsketto*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23436551
> 
> 
> Thanks guys for the inputs!! I guess just getting quiet fans and dealing with the noise seems to be the consensus....
> 
> why should i put a fan in my fanless case?



Electronics life span is severly shortened by chronic high temps. Does your processor have a fan? Yes it does and all the heat pushed out by the fan stays around the rest of your pc components.


----------



## jsketto

My htpc case is a fanless design...it uses copper heat pipes from the CPU to pull the heat away out towards the case which has fins to dissipate the heat


----------



## wkearney99

This is also why a lot of racks end up with plexiglass doors on them. Either jump through hurdles trying to silence the gear or just hide it behind an acrylic panel. Now, even with a door you would still want to aim for quieter gear to start with.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Either way, cooling is a necessity. Your hard drives put off quite a bit of heat as does a power supply.


----------



## wadepoe

Hey, everyone that has a free standing rack, Casters on carpet?


My rack backs up to a wall and super hard to access the back, has anyone had experience with a tall rack on casters? Should I worry about tipping, carpet dmg, etc...


Also MA casters vs buying from home depot.


----------



## Pain Infliction

At my last house I had my rack on casters because I was renting and could not cut a whole in the wall. The rack was so heavy that it bent the casters and the rack was not movable. Since then I bought my house and put it in the wall, but if I didn't put it in the wall I would have tried using track rails or something else other than casters. I think that over time it could possibly damage your carpet.


----------



## wadepoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsketto*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23439314
> 
> 
> My htpc case is a fanless design...it uses copper heat pipes from the CPU to pull the heat away out towards the case which has fins to dissipate the heat



Hey jsketto,


Yes your PC may be a fan-less design, but read up on how temp effects gear, that PC may be rated fan-less in an open environment but the second you throw it in a rack it will directly effect the temp of the surround equipment. You need to keep the temperature of your rack below a certain temp or else the life of the device drops 20/30%.


refer to this: middleatlantic.com/pdf/ThermalManagement.pdf‎


----------



## Pain Infliction

You do not want the temp above 85 degress F and I thought that I read somewhere a while back that it could actually shorten the life span to about 50%. Could be wrong about that but for sure nothing above 85 degress.


----------



## OPPIZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wadepoe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23458376
> 
> 
> Hey, everyone that has a free standing rack, Casters on carpet?
> 
> 
> My rack backs up to a wall and super hard to access the back, has anyone had experience with a tall rack on casters? Should I worry about tipping, carpet dmg, etc...
> 
> 
> Also MA casters vs buying from home depot.


I use a MA ERK-3520 rack, with a MA CBS-ERK-20( commercial grade caster base for 20" depth model, rated for 1300 lbs. ).

At ( 68.5" tall x 22" wide x 20" deep ), it rolls easily over my Berber carpet. I probably couldn't tip it if I tried, with the weight being evenly spread. Tipping really shouldn't be a problem, if it's not top heavy & too tall. No carpet damage, just carpet indentations from the wheels( same as furniture would make ). I would use the MA caster solution, get the commercial grade if it's offered. What MA rack model are you using? Height?










I just pull it out( using the handle panel ) & swivel around, for access to the back.








http://s489.photobucket.com/user/ZIPPO_01/media/DSC_1961.jpg.html  

http://s489.photobucket.com/user/ZIPPO_01/media/DSC_2000.jpg.html  

http://s489.photobucket.com/user/ZIPPO_01/media/DSC_1946.jpg.html  

http://s489.photobucket.com/user/ZIPPO_01/media/DSC_1940.jpg.html  




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23458392
> 
> 
> 
> At my last house I had my rack on casters because I was renting and could not cut a whole in the wall. The rack was so heavy that it bent the casters and the rack was not movable. Since then I bought my house and put it in the wall, but if I didn't put it in the wall I would have tried using track rails or something else other than casters. I think that over time it could possibly damage your carpet.


Slim-5 Series rack? Were you using MA casters? How much weight were they rated for?


----------



## Pain Infliction

Wow you found my old set up! Nice! Yes it is a slim 5 rack 26" depth. I do not know what caters they were because I bought the frame from a guy on craigslist and the casters were already on. With all the weight of my equipment in the rack, it bent them. That is before I put amps in there too! I had to put four 4x4's underneath to keep it level and I had to unscrew the sides that I made every time I needed to access the inside. After I moved and built it into the wall, I had to cut the casters off. That was the only way to get them off because of how they bent.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wadepoe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23458376
> 
> 
> Hey, everyone that has a free standing rack, Casters on carpet? My rack backs up to a wall and super hard to access the back, has anyone had experience with a tall rack on casters? Should I worry about tipping, carpet dmg, etc... Also MA casters vs buying from home depot.



Cheap casters look it, and may not hold up to the total weight AND lateral forces put on them when you want to shift the rack.


But consider how often you actually expect to be moving it. It might be worth planning on just putting down something over the carpet to accommodate the casters during those rare occasions you need to move the rack.


----------



## markrubin

I would stay away from casters on carpet particularly if it is deep pile carpet: the weight of the rack concentrated on the wheels can damage the carpet and it will be extremely difficult to move the rack (the casters tend to 'dig in' to the carpet)


another solution I tried, with no success, was to use the rack extension kit for the Slim 5: the extension pieces on carpet caused misalignment while attempting to pull the rack out onto it: it requires near perfect alignment to stay absolutely level with the rack: as the carpet is depressed due to rack weight, it is impossible to maintain alignment.


I agree with the suggestion to put a wood or metal plate on the carpet so the casters are on the plate


----------



## jsketto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wadepoe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1740#post_23458393
> 
> 
> Hey jsketto,
> 
> 
> Yes your PC may be a fan-less design, but read up on how temp effects gear, that PC may be rated fan-less in an open environment but the second you throw it in a rack it will directly effect the temp of the surround equipment. You need to keep the temperature of your rack below a certain temp or else the life of the device drops 20/30%.
> 
> 
> refer to this: middleatlantic.com/pdf/ThermalManagement.pdf‎



thanks for the help!


----------



## gerchy

Hi guys!


I'm still on a pursuit for a rack solution. I haven't decided whether to use a rack or a custom shelving system.

In both cases I would like a back door at the rear because the place is in a brick wall that separates two rooms. The doors ought to be discrete and noise proof.


Suggestions are welcome. For racks too.

Dimensions - width+depth: 60 cm (23.62"), height, 210 cm (82.67")


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerchy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23487655
> 
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> 
> I'm still on a pursuit for a rack solution. I haven't decided whether to use a rack or a custom shelving system.
> 
> In both cases I would like a back door at the rear because the place is in a brick wall that separates two rooms. The doors ought to be discrete and noise proof.
> 
> 
> Suggestions are welcome. For racks too.
> 
> Dimensions - width+depth: 60 cm (23.62"), height, 210 cm (82.67")



I'd go with a rack. If budget is limited, checkout Sanus, you can get a fully equipped rack for about $1K (equivalent MA would be over $2K)


----------



## TMcG

eBay is typically loaded with guys looking to move Middle Atlantic racks for pennies on the dollar. Sometimes they even come with a lot of accessories (fans, shelves, drawers, etc.). Keep your eyes peeled there and, given a little patience, you can cobble together a full-on MA rack for a hugely discounted price.


I have two MRK-4431 racks that came with all the thermal and power management equipment, doors, fan tops, cable lacing bars, a few shelves, etc. - all for $650 delivered for both racks. I've picked up rackshelves for as little as $20 and blanks / vents for even less. All I have to do is order the custom faceplates for those items that are not rack-mountable and both racks will be fully optioned for less than $1000.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23488533
> 
> 
> eBay is typically loaded with guys looking to move Middle Atlantic racks for pennies on the dollar. Sometimes they even come with a lot of accessories (fans, shelves, drawers, etc.). Keep your eyes peeled there and, given a little patience, you can cobble together a full-on MA rack for a hugely discounted price.
> 
> 
> I have two MRK-4431 racks that came with all the thermal and power management equipment, doors, fan tops, cable lacing bars, a few shelves, etc. - all for $650 delivered for both racks. I've picked up rackshelves for as little as $20 and blanks / vents for even less. All I have to do is order the custom faceplates for those items that are not rack-mountable and both racks will be fully optioned for less than $1000.



I've seen plenty of used ones for pennies on the dollar, which is great if it will be hidden, but it it's visible you probably have little choice but to buy new because of scratches/dings, etc.


----------



## TMcG

I've found most to be in good whape and some in near-perfect condition (like mine). Middle Atlantic has a product code "WRINKLE" which is color-matched touch-up paint for their racks. It fills any light scratches in beautifully.


Most of the racks I've seen are built into framework or a closet of some sort. Even the ones built through the wall have very little of the actual rack exposed after rack shelves and ears are installed.


Here's pics of my find:
http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/l8_apex/media/FrontofMAracksprotrudingthroughfuturewall.jpg.html  

http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/l...inequipmentroomfacingbasementhallway.jpg.html


----------



## Tedd

Hammered finish rattle can spray paint can clean up a rack also.


----------



## Glimmie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23489363
> 
> 
> Hammered finish rattle can spray paint can clean up a rack also.



Another trick if the rack is recessed in the wall is to laminate wood molding (or whatever) to the face. Contact cement works great on metal.


----------



## gerchy

Thanks guys.


I will check on some eBay auctions, I hope I'd get lucky - I live in Europe so these things are probably rarer than in the US.

But rack or no rack I still have to work on a back door solution.


----------



## Tedd

Expand your search to local area internet classified websites also. Also look at Chinese built racks

at local electronic retailers. I was shocked at how inexpensive these cabinets were locally.


Middle Atlantic Slim5 racks have removable back panels available. And their sides could easily given plywood panels to enclose.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1470#post_22385586
> 
> 
> A dirt cheap used server rack served my needs very well, for a few years, in my mechanical room, until I had a sub panel installed. Now space and electrical codes are an issue.
> 
> 
> Now I need a smaller rack, and after considering all options, I feel that Lowell makes a great rack to fit my needs and budgetary requirements.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sick of Chinese-made ****, in my life, and I want to pay more for better quality. Not much more, but more.



I have the Sanus CFR2136 36U rack, and absolutely love it. No issues, and it's affordable, as racks go. Particularly if you want one with side and back panels, and a glass front door. I priced a MA rack of similar design and was looking at four times the cost for essentially the same product, and I'd have had to assemble it all myself, whereas the Sanus arrived at my door fully assembled, for well under four figures.


----------



## VidPro

So after reading this thread over and over again I decided to make a go at it in my own home. My only choice in my small apartment is to take a chunk of closet space.

http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/VideoProBoston/media/image_zps2f6b8ca0.jpg.html  


So I did a quick Photoshop of my idea to make sure it would look ok.

http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/VideoProBoston/media/image_zps880105b8.jpg.html  


I framed the space yesterday.

 


And now I'm ready to finish

 


Couple of questions. Is the best way to hang the shelves using series of holes and pegs? Should I consider adding a fan to the top of this unit even though the shelves will be 20" wide?


This is my first time using an iPad and Photobucket to upload photos so if they are too big I apologize.


Thanks


VidPro


----------



## VidPro

Yesterday I drilled the shelf pin holes and put the sides and top. I wanted to build this a little differently in terms of cuts but without the proper work space and tools I tried my best to use all off the shelf stock with little or no cutting. So far so good. The rack is square and tight. What would you guys do for wire management? I am putting a Furman power unit on the top. All the other components will plug int that.

skinned.jpg 51k .jpg file


----------



## OPPIZ

Unless you have access to the rear, wire management will be very difficult. How deep is your rack( from front to rear )?


----------



## VidPro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23513822
> 
> 
> Unless you have access to the rear, wire management will be very difficult. How deep is your rack( from front to rear )?



It's just over 20" deep. I left about an inch of space behind it for pulling wires. I was hoping to limit the number of holes I need to drill in the back panel.


----------



## wkearney99

20" is not very deep. Nor is an inch going to be enough to handle most wire bending requirements. I had to go at least 22" for a built-in going in our new house. There are some components that just would not fit in any shallower of a depth. That and I thought it unwise to expect all future replacements to fit anything smaller than that.


Don't forget, you also need space for air circulation.


If that's your setup and you're not going to have a removable panel on the back wall then you'd really, really want to consider getting a pull-out rack setup.


----------



## VidPro

I measured my Denon 2807 including wires bent and it gives me the room I need. All my other components are a lot smaller. I also don't mind have the AVR volume and and any other controls popping out of the cabinet. I am limited to the space I can get out of my tiny apartment.


----------



## VidPro

Sorry. I'm giving the wrong measurement. I'm loopy traveling three floors to cut the stock. It's just about 22". My plan is to cut the shelves a bit short in the back for airflow and also install an exhaust fan on the top of the unit.


----------



## OPPIZ

Have you checked through this thread yet?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/990179/diy-a-v-rack


----------



## VidPro

I have and thanks. I'll look at it again.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VidPro*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23513506
> 
> 
> Yesterday I drilled the shelf pin holes and put the sides and top. I wanted to build this a little differently in terms of cuts but without the proper work space and tools I tried my best to use all off the shelf stock with little or no cutting. So far so good. The rack is square and tight. What would you guys do for wire management? I am putting a Furman power unit on the top. All the other components will plug int that.
> 
> skinned.jpg 51k .jpg file



I'd consider making a moveable/hinged partition between the two sides of the closet. This way you can run all the wires on the right hand side of the left hand closet. This way, you'll have a better chance of getting to the rear. That said, it's going to be real difficult. If it were me, I'd have put a slide out or rotating rack frame in the enclosure


----------



## SKINSnCANES

Is there any negative reason for me not just building shelves to stack everything on? I can add fans to ciruclate easy enough


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SKINSnCANES*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23514559
> 
> 
> Is there any negative reason for me not just building shelves to stack everything on? I can add fans to ciruclate easy enough




Will just be a real pain to get to cables. Eg. AVR is on shelf 1, DVD on shelf 4, so you have an HDMI cable going from shelf 1 to shelf 4. If you want to pull out the DVD you need to have a long HDMI cable so it doesn't come unplugged (= messy). If the shelves are close together and cables are short, it's almost impossible to reach behind and plug stuff in. OTOH, if you use long cables and leave big spaces between shelves, you'll see all the cables. You could do something creative like hang some black "drapes" for want of a better word (e.g. 2-6 strips) down the back of the shelves and pass cables through those so it looks clean from the front.


Wiring up a 7.1 AVR when you can't get to the back of it is no fun


Don't get me wrong, it will work, but you'll probably tire of it


Here's a few links:

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/ROTR 

http://avrak.com/avrak-original-rotating-rack-system (I had one of these several years ago. Was pretty good)


Regards


Mark


----------



## VidPro

Quick question. What is the biggest size of your components? I have a Denon 2807 and wil be upgrading to the 4000 in few weeks and even at 20" I'd still have at least three inches for wires etc. I think the 4000 comes in at a little over 16".


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VidPro*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1770#post_23516766
> 
> 
> Quick question. What is the biggest size of your components? I have a Denon 2807 and wil be upgrading to the 4000 in few weeks and even at 20" I'd still have at least three inches for wires etc. I think the 4000 comes in at a little over 16".



The problem is that if you can't rotate it *on the shelf* to get the back facing the side for wiring, you have to pull off the shelf, hold it with one hand and insert cables with other. Not sure how heavy that is, but my Denon (4311Ci) weights a ton and I wouldn't be able to do it. Being the hottest component, it's at top of rack ,so it's not like I can pull it out and place on chair in front of rack to do wiring


----------



## VidPro

I hear ya but I'll be able to get by wiring it. This is a temp solution for me. I don't plan on being in this house for more than a couple of years. When I sell and someone else moves in they can put books on it.










By the way since there is some room behind the cabinet I am going to drill pass through holes for the wires. I have a fan kit coming tomorrow.


----------



## kevin g.

VidPro,

Not to thread crap...(I am following your solution as well...because I think it looks kinda cool...) But you have enough questions and information to start your own thread detailing your experience and build...


----------



## VidPro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin g.*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23518572
> 
> 
> VidPro,
> 
> Not to thread crap...(I am following your solution as well...because I think it looks kinda cool...) But you have enough questions and information to start your own thread detailing your experience and build...



Hi Kevin,


I'll do that. There's had to be a lot of people that have similar situations and that's why I thought I'd post my ongoing experience.


Thanks


----------



## BrianMundt

I couldn't find an answer in this thread, so I was hoping someone more knowledgable than I can answer...


I own a Sanus CFR2136 Component Rack, and I absolutely love it. Can I use these faceplates ( http://www.customavrack.com/products/1198-middle-atlantic-custom-faceplates.aspx ) on this thing? If so, do I need to purchase the entire shelf, or can I get by with just the faceplate?


----------



## OPPIZ

Middle Atlantic custom rack shelves can be used on any 19" rack. You'll probably need the full custom rack shelf( faceplate & shelf ), I don't think the faceplates will fit with the Sanus shelves. Call the vendor in your link, he'll know for sure.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrianMundt*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23565140
> 
> 
> I couldn't find an answer in this thread, so I was hoping someone more knowledgable than I can answer...
> 
> 
> I own a Sanus CFR2136 Component Rack, and I absolutely love it. Can I use these faceplates ( http://www.customavrack.com/products/1198-middle-atlantic-custom-faceplates.aspx ) on this thing? If so, do I need to purchase the entire shelf, or can I get by with just the faceplate?



You can buy just the faceplates and I think that they are $69 dollars each. You can use them with other shelves, but you will have to modify them. That means you will probably have to cut off the part of the faceplate that folds in on the bottom and top. That is what I did.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrianMundt*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23565140
> 
> 
> I couldn't find an answer in this thread, so I was hoping someone more knowledgable than I can answer...
> 
> 
> I own a Sanus CFR2136 Component Rack, and I absolutely love it. Can I use these faceplates ( http://www.customavrack.com/products/1198-middle-atlantic-custom-faceplates.aspx ) on this thing? If so, do I need to purchase the entire shelf, or can I get by with just the faceplate?



It looks like the faceplate extends to cover the rails (and is fixed to the rails), so you'll probably end up with double depth: the flange from the original shelf plus the flange from the face plate


----------



## wkearney99

I was going to make the double-thickness comment but I can't recall if the MA units I had did that or not. I know at least one of them had the flange ears integrated with the faceplace and shelf. I also tried using one faceplate with another shelf and ran into the curled-back part of the faceplate's bottom edge. There was just enough of a lip to present a clearance issue with the shelf I wanted to use.


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^That is why I said that you have to modify it and cut it off. also, the face plates are really thin so do worry about it stick out. If he has all the same shelves and faceplates on all of them, you will not notice the difference.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23566225
> 
> 
> ^^^That is why I said that you have to modify it and cut it off. also, the face plates are really thin so do worry about it stick out. If he has all the same shelves and faceplates on all of them, you will not notice the difference.



I'd imagine you're looking for pretty decent aesthetics if you're buying custom faceplates (I realize they do help with cooling, but I don't think that's the reason most people buy them). you'd have be a pretty good metal worker to cut off a 3U high flange and finish it well


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23566306
> 
> 
> I'd imagine you're looking for pretty decent aesthetics if you're buying custom faceplates (I realize they do help with cooling, but I don't think that's the reason most people buy them). you'd have be a pretty good metal worker to cut off a 3U high flange and finish it well



No that is not what you cut off. That does not make sense to do that because how would it stay up? What I was saying is cut the inside part that folds under. If you have the face plates you will know what I am talking about. The only issue I ran into other than I ran out of screws is the directv box not fitting good. I think there is an old pic of my rack one page back. Those are the faceplates with monoprice shelves.


----------



## BrianMundt

Thanks for the replies everyone.


So, if I'm understanding correctly, the faceplates by themselves would require some modification, but buying the shelf+faceplate would work without modification?


----------



## OPPIZ

Yup.


----------



## BrianMundt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23567309
> 
> 
> Yup.



Thanks!


----------



## Done Deal DR

Personally I would (and did) order the shelf and faceplate together. They work perfectly together and I don't think any [reasonable] amount of money is worth the tradeoff of time, frustration, and inferior results. Like the 2 above me posted it's a standard rack width and will fit into most any other 19" rack. Also the MA RSH shelves are designed for optimal depth to allow good air moment through the rack.


Not to say I wouldn't give a thumbs up to somebody who retrofitted the MA faceplates on other shelves and made it look good, that's hard work.


----------



## GlassWolf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23567522
> 
> 
> Personally I would (and did) order the shelf and faceplate together. They work perfectly together and I don't think any [reasonable] amount of money is worth the tradeoff of time, frustration, and inferior results. Like the 2 above me posted it's a standard rack width and will fit into most any other 19" rack. Also the MA RSH shelves are designed for optimal depth to allow good air moment through the rack.
> 
> 
> Not to say I wouldn't give a thumbs up to somebody who retrofitted the MA faceplates on other shelves and made it look good, that's hard work.



how much is one of those custom plates with the matching shelf unit? (I thought about using these with my own CFR2136 a while back)


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlassWolf*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23568293
> 
> 
> how much is one of those custom plates with the matching shelf unit? (I thought about using these with my own CFR2136 a while back)



I get them for $109 from customavrack.


----------



## Wellywell

Here's mine, using a Sanus CFR2127 fully decked out, I hope you guys like it...I love it


----------



## Wellywell

Another one with the side panels off and work lights turned on


----------



## Wellywell

Last one I promise


----------



## doublewing11

Love the MA ASX-R rack...........easy and convenient to switch out........


----------



## wkearney99

Having never seen the roll-out rail setup, what does it take to use it?


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669227
> 
> 
> Having never seen the roll-out rail setup, what does it take to use it?



About 5 minutes to get the service track and stand out of storage, attach them to the rack base and unlock the rack, and then it's a simple pull on the ball-bearing rollers...


The service stand sits on floor, and the two rails sit in slots on the top of the service stand. Four screws attach the rail to the base of the rack - after you remove the ~1U cover plate (two screws). That cover plate also prevents the rack from sliding - removing it reveals the screw holes for the rails, and the slot handle you grab to slide the rack out.


It is more work than "walking behind the rack" if you have access that way, though... So when something isn't working, it does take clock time to access the equipment before you can start diagnosing. But it's infinitely easier than having NO access!


----------



## wkearney99

Thanks for clarifying, I wondered whether it had a slide-in or something that stored it with the rack.


Agreed, better to have some setup to get access vs none at all. Just be sure to find a good place to keep the pieces for the stand.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669423
> 
> 
> About 5 minutes to get the service track and stand out of storage, attach them to the rack base and unlock the rack, and then it's a simple pull on the ball-bearing rollers...
> 
> 
> The service stand sits on floor, and the two rails sit in slots on the top of the service stand. Four screws attach the rail to the base of the rack - after you remove the ~1U cover plate (two screws). That cover plate also prevents the rack from sliding - removing it reveals the screw holes for the rails, and the slot handle you grab to slide the rack out.
> 
> 
> It is more work than "walking behind the rack" if you have access that way, though... So when something isn't working, it does take clock time to access the equipment before you can start diagnosing. But it's infinitely easier than having NO access!



Is the service track and stand specifically for MA or would it work with other brands. Would you mind sharing part nos/links?


Regards


Mark


----------



## doublewing11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669423
> 
> 
> About 5 minutes to get the service track and stand out of storage, attach them to the rack base and unlock the rack, and then it's a simple pull on the ball-bearing rollers...
> 
> 
> The service stand sits on floor, and the two rails sit in slots on the top of the service stand. Four screws attach the rail to the base of the rack - after you remove the ~1U cover plate (two screws). That cover plate also prevents the rack from sliding - removing it reveals the screw holes for the rails, and the slot handle you grab to slide the rack out.
> 
> 
> It is more work than "walking behind the rack" if you have access that way, though... So when something isn't working, it does take clock time to access the equipment before you can start diagnosing. But it's infinitely easier than having NO access!



The AXS-R was the only solution..................the alternative was having rear open to a 1/2 bath. Can you imagine if one of your friends actually thought the rear rack access was a urinal?


----------



## doublewing11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669575
> 
> 
> Is the service track and stand specifically for MA or would it work with other brands. Would you mind sharing part nos/links?
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Mark



Guess it could be modified to work with other brands...............but might be cost prohibitive..........and not worth the effort.


Links:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/axsr.htm 


It's all there.........part #'s and all


----------



## TMcG

Designed only for Middle Atlantic. Bottom of page here: http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/axss.htm


----------



## RossoDiamante

Middle Atlantic also has a non-rotating version which I'm using in my setup. I believe a little cheaper if you have the space in front of the rack to slide it out far enough to get behind it.


----------



## markrubin

^^^


the pull out stand is nice if used on hardwood or tile floors: but take note if you try to use it on high pile carpet you may have a problem: I bought them for my two racks but the stand shifted too much on carpet as I tried to pull the rack out: a piece of wood on the carpet helped a bit but I gave up: luckily I had enough access from the rear


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RossoDiamante*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669825
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic also has a non-rotating version which I'm using in my setup. I believe a little cheaper if you have the space in front of the rack to slide it out far enough to get behind it.



That's the one I use as well. My niche was tight on depth and I was concerned about running out of space to pull out the rack as well, so I opted for the 25" extension instead of the 48". Which does make it a bit of a hassle to get behind the deep components - if you have the space in the room, definitely use the 48" tracks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markrubin*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669921
> 
> 
> the pull out stand is nice if used on hardwood or tile floors: but take note if you try to use it on high pile carpet you may have a problem: I bought them for my two racks but the stand shifted too much on carpet as I tried to pull the rack out: a piece of wood on the carpet helped a bit but I gave up: luckily I had enough access from the rear



I have low-pile carpet in the theater and don't have any issues with the service track shifting, but could certainly see that being a problem on deep piles... Definitely want a stable base for the rack to move - that's a lot of weight and $$$ moving around.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23669575
> 
> 
> Is the service track and stand specifically for MA or would it work with other brands. Would you mind sharing part nos/links



No way you'd want to try that. The bottom of the rack has the rollers built-in, and the rest of the system is all engineered for the tracks. The track and stand are the expensive parts anyway.


Jeff


----------



## doublewing11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800#post_23670167
> 
> 
> 
> No way you'd want to try that. The bottom of the rack has the rollers built-in, and the rest of the system is all engineered for the tracks. The track and stand are the expensive parts anyway.
> 
> 
> Jeff



Totally agree.................but human ingenuity can work wonders!!


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doublewing11*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23670597
> 
> 
> Totally agree.................but human ingenuity can work wonders!!



Especially when there's 300 pounds of equipment tipped over on top of you...


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23670624
> 
> 
> Especially when there's 300 pounds of equipment tipped over on top of you...



I'd be more worried about the time to re-terminate all the broken wires


----------



## doublewing11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jautor*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23670624
> 
> 
> Especially when there's 300 pounds of equipment tipped over on top of you...



Try 460 lbs!! I'm pushing limits!!!


----------



## wkearney99

FWIW, an integrator magazine is holding a contest:
http://www.cepro.com/article/show_us_your_great_looking_racks_2013 


I wouldn't think they're looking for DIY efforts. But it might be a good link to keep tabs on for when the contest results are presented.


----------



## dalearyous

great thread!

*quick question:* is it safe to assume these media racks follow the same sizing and logic of server racks? i see a lot of mid atlantic racks, does anyone use racksolutions?


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700017
> 
> 
> great thread!
> 
> *quick question:* is it safe to assume these media racks follow the same sizing and logic of server racks? i see a lot of mid atlantic racks, does anyone use racksolutions?



As long as they are 19" racks, you should be good. I went with a trip-lite for my rack. There are benefits though to going with Middle Atlantic and if I were to it all over again, I think I would go with a MA rack instead due to all the accessories they offer (most I've been able to use anyways, but still). The only thing that is not MA on my rack is the rack itself. The Slim5 also seems to be a great choice for making the rack have that "built in" look. I used the MA trim strips and still had some uncovered rack frame. This is because the Slim 5 has slimmer rack rails. I ended up having to use some trim work to make up the difference. It still looks great, but I think the Slim 5 would have made things a lot easier.


TDLR: Any 19" rack should be fine. Just make sure it will meet your ultimate goals in the end or that you have planned for any workarounds (for incorporating it into your space) before hand so you have as little surprises as possible.


----------



## wkearney99

Note some AV racks use threaded holes, where IT racks commonly use unthreaded or square holes (requiring the use of clip or cage nuts). There's not much difference otherwise, as it's the width that's crucial and the use of standard hole drilling on the face. I second the idea that MA's gear and accessories are worth considering, if you like that sort of thing. And have the budget for it!


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700270
> 
> 
> Note some AV racks use threaded holes, where IT racks commonly use unthreaded or square holes (requiring the use of clip or cage nuts).



I personally prefer this as you never have to worry about stripping a hole out







. I've seen some server racks that also use threaded holes, but they seem to be pretty rare. Using cage nuts also lets you use different size bolts. I was using 10/32 nuts, but the trim strips from MA required M6 (I believe), so I only had to change out the cage nuts for those bolts and not the whole system. I could have just started with m6, but I didn't know that MA used that size for the trim strips. I just went with the normal size for server racks (since I also happen to use mine for a "server rack").


----------



## dalearyous

thanks for the replies guys. i will most likely go with an IT rack as i am an IT sys admin and know my way around them very well. plus they can be found on craigslist for cheap or free! between the mid atlantic stuff and racksolutions i should be able to cover everything. the rack is going in a closet on the other side of the TV wall so it will be out of site.


----------



## Pain Infliction

M6? I thought they were 10/32? I used 10/32's in my slim5 until I bought the MA screws.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800_100#post_23700661
> 
> 
> thanks for the replies guys. i will most likely go with an IT rack as i am an IT sys admin and know my way around them very well. plus they can be found on craigslist for cheap or free! between the mid atlantic stuff and racksolutions i should be able to cover everything. the rack is going in a closet on the other side of the TV wall so it will be out of site.



If the rack is out of sight, use the IT rack. If you want to put it in your wall, use the MA rack. You can put the IT rack in the wall but the zero edge look will not be there as the IT racks are wider than the rails as you probably already know.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sir Meili*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700304
> 
> 
> I personally prefer this as you never have to worry about stripping a hole out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've seen some server racks that also use threaded holes, but they seem to be pretty rare. Using cage nuts also lets you use different size bolts. I was using 10/32 nuts, but the trim strips from MA required M6 (I believe), so I only had to change out the cage nuts for those bolts and not the whole system. I could have just started with m6, but I didn't know that MA used that size for the trim strips. I just went with the normal size for server racks (since I also happen to use mine for a "server rack").



I much prefer threaded holes. you've got be pretty hopeless/careless to strip a hole. Worst case you can re-tap for a larger screw


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700661
> 
> 
> thanks for the replies guys. i will most likely go with an IT rack as i am an IT sys admin and know my way around them very well. plus they can be found on craigslist for cheap or free! between the mid atlantic stuff and racksolutions i should be able to cover everything. the rack is going in a closet on the other side of the TV wall so it will be out of site.



I started with an IT rack (but a really deep one: Sunfire 6800 I think). At the time I had a really deep 1U server. It was a real pain to get to the back of stuff due to depth


I have a Sanus one now, which is great value as it includes all shelves, etc. You can probably get one same depth as Sanus/MA/etc. but I'd check first.


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700674
> 
> 
> M6? I thought they were 10/32? I used 10/32's in my slim5 until I bought the MA screws.



I may have that backwards then. I know I started with one, then had to get new cage nuts when I got the trim strips. Now that I think of it, I did have to get 10/32 for the MA trim strips.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23700764
> 
> 
> you've got be pretty hopeless/careless to strip a hole. Worst case you can re-tap for a larger screw


Well, if someone's THAT ham-fisted I'm not sure they'd want to then add the hassle of yet another sized screw thread. At least with the clip nuts you're at able to use whatever sized screw works best. But otherwise, yeah, I agree that threaded holes certainly have their appeal. Just make sure to find a good deal on the CORRECT sized screws.


I believe most of mine (clip nut kind) are 10-32, and that includes a number of handy ones with knurled knobs (even a post with the knurl removable) but I've used a couple of M6 for rear-facing shelves and such.


----------



## doublewing11

I'd like to know why MA does NOT include 10-32 screws with custom racks and faceplates!!


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doublewing11*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23701442
> 
> 
> I'd like to know why MA does NOT include 10-32 screws with custom racks and faceplates!!



Oddly enough, they do with the trim strips


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800_100#post_23701024
> 
> 
> Well, if someone's THAT ham-fisted I'm not sure they'd want to then add the hassle of yet another sized screw thread. At least with the clip nuts you're at able to use whatever sized screw works best. But otherwise, yeah, I agree that threaded holes certainly have their appeal. Just make sure to find a good deal on the CORRECT sized screws.
> 
> 
> I believe most of mine (clip nut kind) are 10-32, and that includes a number of handy ones with knurled knobs (even a post with the knurl removable) but I've used a couple of M6 for rear-facing shelves and such.


how did you use m6 screws? Did you tap it for m6? I don't know why you would do that considering m6 is metric.


> Quote:
> then add the hassle of yet another sized screw thread



Another reason why I don't get you. You are not only using two different screws, but are also mixing metric and standard. Sorry dude, but some of the things you say (particularly in this thread) has me wondering.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sir Meili*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800_100#post_23700791
> 
> 
> I may have that backwards then. I know I started with one, then had to get new cage nuts when I got the trim strips. Now that I think of it, I did have to get 10/32 for the MA trim strips.



How much are those trim strips?


----------



## TMcG

About $38 street price EACH for the 78" sticks in the anodized finish. About half that for the powder coated finish, plus shipping.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Excuse my ignorance, but how do you install them? Actually a better question is how do they stay on?


----------



## TMcG

Snap fit over the screw heads.


----------



## Neurorad

MA offers many of their racks with cage nut mounting as an option. However, not the Slim5.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doublewing11*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23701442
> 
> 
> I'd like to know why MA does NOT include 10-32 screws with custom racks and faceplates!!



Well duh, of course they do. That's because the strips need to fit onto a specific sized screw head in order to stay in place.


People will populate a rack with a wide range of a few devices. Some may be all 3U-5U sized, 1U-2U sized or a random mix. Just how many screws would be appropriate? There's also the cost factor as that'd be an added cost. Sure, "some" would be nice, no argument there. But people would still whine about that not being "enough".


That and sometimes you'd want to use other screw heads. Allen, Torx or even torx security screws for example. Or maybe knurled posts. I've got a bag of some that are threaded (differently) on both ends, one to go into the rack and clip nut and the other for a removable knurled collar. This lets me rest a heavier piece of equipment on the posts and spin on a nut quickly, as opposed to having juggle the gear, the screw and a screwdriver. I typically don't leave them installed that way, but go back and replace them with a regular rack screw later. This is one supplier of them: http://www.rackrelease.com/index.htm 


My metric is one screw for every hole on one of the posts usually ends up being enough. For a 4 post rack with full front and partial back population this is usually about right. Then I buy two bags with that quantity!


----------



## dalearyous

I found an APC 42u rack for $100 in perfect condition. 78" tall and 48" deep. should be PLENTY. ill most likely just go with shelves from racksolutions and set all my stuff in there as i do not care about what the front looks like. will i have any issues with ps3, 360, wii u controllers through 1 partition wall?


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23703902
> 
> 
> I found an APC 42u rack for $100 in perfect condition. 78" tall and 48" deep. should be PLENTY. ill most likely just go with shelves from racksolutions and set all my stuff in there as i do not care about what the front looks like. will i have any issues with ps3, 360, wii u controllers through 1 partition wall?



In testing for an outdoor theater, I took my PS3 and Wii remotes (this was before my Wii U) and I was able to go to my back fence which is about 70'+ from where the rack is now. That was through at least 1 Stud wall and 1 CBS (Concrete block stucco) wall. I think you'll be fine. I even went to the four corners of my house to see if they would be playable from any room in the house and they seemed to work ok (I didn't have TVs in those rooms yet, so I wasn't actually looking at the screen, just pressing in directions and counting and seeing if the focus was where it was supposed to be).


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23703902
> 
> 
> I found an APC 42u rack for $100 in perfect condition. 78" tall and 48" deep. should be PLENTY. ill most likely just go with shelves from racksolutions and set all my stuff in there as i do not care about what the front looks like. will i have any issues with ps3, 360, wii u controllers through 1 partition wall?



48 is very deep. Will be a real pain to get to things from the rear (I know, I had one) and got rid of it for that reason


----------



## dalearyous

the side panels pop off. we have this APC model at work and most devices only sit half way in. so just pop off side panels and do what you have to do. plus it comes on wheels.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23703999
> 
> 
> the side panels pop off. .



I know, I had one. Still found it a real pain to work on. Was *really* glad to get rid of it and get my Sanus


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23703902
> 
> 
> I found an APC 42u rack for $100 in perfect condition. 78" tall and 48" deep. should be PLENTY. ill most likely just go with shelves from racksolutions and set all my stuff in there as i do not care about what the front looks like. will i have any issues with ps3, 360, wii u controllers through 1 partition wall?



Is it really 48" deep between the posts, or is that the total depth counting the typical overhanging doors for the front & back? If the posts are really that far apart then it'll be a bit of a challenge getting rails for everything, as most don't have brackets for that much depth. Most deeper racks like that have posts about 2/3 back for stuff with more limited depth. The upside is you'll have plenty of room from the back to mount other shelving and not have to worry about the cabling bumping into the stuff in front. But, as has been pointed out, it does make it challenge to get to the stuff, especially if the side panels are installed. But if you're going to put it somewhere that's got good access all around it then that sounds like a bargain.


----------



## doublewing11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1830#post_23703177
> 
> 
> Well duh, of course they do. That's because the strips need to fit onto a specific sized screw head in order to stay in place.
> 
> 
> People will populate a rack with a wide range of a few devices. Some may be all 3U-5U sized, 1U-2U sized or a random mix. Just how many screws would be appropriate? There's also the cost factor as that'd be an added cost. Sure, "some" would be nice, no argument there. But people would still whine about that not being "enough".
> 
> 
> That and sometimes you'd want to use other screw heads. Allen, Torx or even torx security screws for example. Or maybe knurled posts. I've got a bag of some that are threaded (differently) on both ends, one to go into the rack and clip nut and the other for a removable knurled collar. This lets me rest a heavier piece of equipment on the posts and spin on a nut quickly, as opposed to having juggle the gear, the screw and a screwdriver. I typically don't leave them installed that way, but go back and replace them with a regular rack screw later. This is one supplier of them: http://www.rackrelease.com/index.htm
> 
> 
> My metric is one screw for every hole on one of the posts usually ends up being enough. For a 4 post rack with full front and partial back population this is usually about right. Then I buy two bags with that quantity!




Seems simple to me.................................face plate.............two or four screws. Done............


Oh well.............gotta hand over additional $25 for screws...............


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1860#post_23705498
> 
> 
> The upside is you'll have plenty of room from the back to mount other shelving and not have to worry about the cabling bumping into the stuff in front. But, as has been pointed out, it does make it challenge to get to the stuff, especially if the side panels are installed. But if you're going to put it somewhere that's got good access all around it then that sounds like a bargain.



Those were my thoughts. Problem is when you have stuff at back and stuff at front, it makes getting to anything a real pain. (I had 360-degree access to mine (in semi finished basement.) Financially is a good deal, but in the wrong run it's a poor choice (been there)


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doublewing11*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1860#post_23705547
> 
> 
> Seems simple to me.................................face plate.............two or four screws. Done............
> 
> 
> Oh well.............gotta hand over additional $25 for screws...............


Lol. Glad I am not the only one who thinks this guy is weird.


----------



## publicENEMY




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Avatar8481*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/0_100#post_10551615
> 
> 
> Yeah it's not quite level, *but the components don't know that* and the price was right (free).



LOL


----------



## mystic_sniper28

i'd almost call that a fire waiting to happen.. avatar


----------



## dalearyous

that is an OCD person's nightmare. just fix it!


----------



## mystic_sniper28

sadly my network warren when it was connected up would of borderlined a living hazard


picture


2 adsl routers

1 wifi router

1 av 360 joytech av network router

1 av router

ps2, ps3, xbox, xbox 360, snes, n64, wii, wiiu

jvc dvd player sony 5-disc and onko 704


yamaha tss-15


that's what my rats nest of cablle wires was


----------



## NickTheGreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dalearyous*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1840_40#post_23719549
> 
> 
> that is an OCD person's nightmare. just fix it!



FOR THE LOVE FOR ALL THAT IS HOLY. PLEASE!


----------



## Pain Infliction

Does anybody remember what those tinting strips are called that you put on you av components so they are not so bright? I can not find them anywhere. Driving me nuts!


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Gel


----------



## Keith Mickunas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1850_50#post_23756107
> 
> 
> Does anybody remember what those tinting strips are called that you put on you av components so they are not so bright? I can not find them anywhere. Driving me nuts!


 http://www.lightdims.com/


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OPPIZ*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1500_100#post_22861294
> 
> 
> A smoked glass door or a product like Light Dims( http://www.lightdims.com/ ), would work.
> 
> It's never bothered me( guess I'm just used to it ), regardless, I keep all rack emitted lighting to a minimum, when possible.




I finally found it! Took me forever!


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Keith Mickunas*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1800_100#post_23756151
> 
> http://www.lightdims.com/



I saw your post after I found it. Thanks for your time though.


----------



## mystic_sniper28

feed me photo's


----------



## robertintemple


Here is a rack I did for a rather large house.  Controlling 2 Surround sound systems, 17 video zones and 24 audio zones.  Yes, there are 17 DirecTV receivers in this one house.

 



 

Here's the back of one side of the rack.  All the white wires are 16/4 for the speakers in the house..


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertintemple*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1860#post_23883363
> 
> 
> Yes, there are 17 DirecTV receivers in this one house.



Wouldn't want to get that cable bill!


----------



## Pain Infliction

The amount of money in that rack is crazy!


----------



## markrubin

^^^


Robert


what do you use for control;


nice rack!


----------



## robertintemple


Lots of Crestron.  There's a Crestron 32x32 HDMI matrix switch, Sonnex multiroom audio system (24x32), two MC3 processors, a Pro2 processor (needed the ports), a bunch of smaller processors (dedicated for things like lighting and such) and a tuner with net streamer card.  Also a ton of Kaleidescape and of course the 17 DirecTV receivers.  The Integra 80.3 preamp is driving the two CAT amps that run one of the surround sound zones.


----------



## TMcG

I was just going to ask why so many DirecTV receivers, especially when you have that Crestron 32x32 matrix. The only reason why you would need that many streams is if you had your own Vegas-style sports book with just tons of monitors running different programming in one spot while still allowing additional streams for other areas in the house. From a design perspective, having that many receivers for that many individual streams doesn't make sense.


The other thing that had me scratching my head is why not go with the "dual horizontal mount" option for the H25-100 (or 500) receivers so 2 would sit side-by-side in 1U. As they only produce negligible heat, you could stack them to fit all 14 into just 7U.


Any reason why RSH plates weren't ordered for some of the pieces to finish off the look? Seems like the client would have not objected to budget for the extra shelves with faceplates.


Nice job on the wiring - would love to see more photos of that if you had them available.


----------



## robertintemple




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1860#post_23884146
> 
> 
> I was just going to ask why so many DirecTV receivers, especially when you have that Crestron 32x32 matrix. The only reason why you would need that many streams is if you had your own Vegas-style sports book with just tons of monitors running different programming in one spot while still allowing additional streams for other areas in the house. From a design perspective, having that many receivers for that many individual streams doesn't make sense.
> 
> 
> The other thing that had me scratching my head is why not go with the "dual horizontal mount" option for the H25-100 (or 500) receivers so 2 would sit side-by-side in 1U. As they only produce negligible heat, you could stack them to fit all 14 into just 7U.
> 
> 
> Any reason why RSH plates weren't ordered for some of the pieces to finish off the look? Seems like the client would have not objected to budget for the extra shelves with faceplates.
> 
> 
> Nice job on the wiring - would love to see more photos of that if you had them available.


One clear requirement by the customer was due to all the visitors and entertaining they do they didn't want any collisions over satellite.  ie, no one in bedroom 4 changing a channel and having the channel change in the kitchen.  So, I designed it so every bedroom and every tv in a common area gets it's own receiver.  There's also a media room with 5 TV's (pictured in my avatar) and of course each of those needed it's own box for game watching.  Also, most locations have more than one TV and they wanted both to be able to show different programs.

H25's produce negligible heat?  Actually, these are H24's which are little space heaters. I've measured (with a non contact Fluke thermometer) 136 degrees F on a bank of 7 laid vertically but squished together.  It was the house I did right before this one and it was causing problems so I spaced the heck out of these to avoid that.  Same reason there's no plates covering them.. for air circulation.  There are two doors that cover the rack with stretched fabric to hide the equipment but allow airflow (not yet installed when I took the picture).

Not too many wiring pictures unfortunately.  Here's a few:

 

Business end of a 32x32 HDMI matrix.



 

Reverse view during install.  Better view of the H24's



 

Another "during" photo.  This was actually fun!  Lots and lots of space for heat control.



 

front view.  normally the lights in the equipment room are off so you don't see that light shining thru.



 

I hate having to tuck and hide long power cords...


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^ Amazing! Please post more of your installations!


----------



## TMcG

My apologies - I didn't mean for my post to read the way it did. I am sure the choice to get that many receivers was a client-driven decision. I do think it's funny how some clients want to take the sledgehammer approach when it's only 0.00002% of the time (if at all) that they would have all 17 different DirecTV streams being privately consumed by a number of different parties at different rooms all at the same time. What's the point of having people over if the groups are going to be disbursed throughout the residence so everyone can privately watch different shows on DirecTV, right?







In my own system I have an 8x16 matrix with a Genie and two H25-500s for a total of 3 streams to be distributed throughout the house to cut down on those monthly lease fees. The H25s or even the C41 clients run substantially cooler with the power supply outside of the box, unlike the H24 which has it integrated.


Again, nice job on the rack.


Here are a couple of in-process pics from my last rack a long time ago....


Lexicon 7-channel amplifier and 3 Motorola Dual tuner DVR cable boxes (many years ago before switching to DirecTV). You can see the component wires that went to an Extron 8x12 matrix switch for distribution throughout the house.
http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/l8_apex/media/CableBoxAmplifierwiring_zps6db0d3c4.jpg.html  


Wiring the first of three Niles multichannel amps for the distributed audio system:
http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/l8_apex/media/WiringforDistributedAudioSystem_zps5871ad7a.jpg.html  


Not a rack, but circa 2004 when I wired my structured cable, UHF / FM antenna and high-speed data system. Included three separate modulated security camera channels.
http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/l8_apex/media/IMG_0010_zpsf29312a5.jpg.html


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## robertintemple


^^^^^  No worries, I understand completely.. It's actually a common question as most houses I work on have lots of sat receivers.  Our success came from fixing houses that had existing systems done by other companies that the owners didn't like.  Most had remotes that had Sat1 Sat2 Sat3 Sat4 as selections and the folks in the house were supposed to pick one..  Problems arise when visitors put children down for naps and put on soft music on channel 825 or something and someone in the theater comes along and chooses the same sat receiver and changes the channel to Live Free Or Die Hard.  Our answer is to throw sat receivers at the problem and folks love that (as money is not an issue).  Plus, since it's feeding a matrix we can give the Master Bedroom options to see what everyone else is watching to check up on them... ;-)

 

That is the sledgehammer approach.. using a matrix.  I've done other systems that were budget constrained and came up with better answers using smaller matrixes and grouping of components.  Local sat receivers and Blu-ray players is even better but then you're at the mercy of the audio return channel in HDMI not hosing you.  At the end of the day you want a system that's completely reliable and easy to use.  That's not easy to do.  As the old adage goes "Easy, Reliable, Inexpensive:  pick two"

 

Your wiring pictures are epic!  That's what I like to see.  When one of my guys would tell me he's done wiring something I would say "Is it pretty?  If I come other there and it's not pretty I'm pulling it all apart".


----------



## robertintemple


Few random rack pictures I've done...

 

This one I love:



 

48 speakers in this house.. this is mid wiring as not all of the wires have landed and the HDMI hasn't been done yet (blank plate far right)



 

This rack I call "Evil Kaleidescape Man"


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## TMcG

I've honestly never seen those speaker wire landing jacks...those are huge!! At one point I used termination plates, but I've gotten away from termination plates, patch panels, etc. at the main equipment room location to simplify the installation and reduce cost. It always seemed like you were living in fear of a wire popping loose.


Thanks for the complement on the wire....I guess my wire OCD is good for something!!







Actually, for my next racks I have purchased a couple more install aids to take things to the next level... First is the *Panduit CB0T24K Cable bundling tool* . This will greatly simplify organizing the wiring and getting everything to line up perfectly.


Second, I bought a *DYMO Rhino 6000 Pro* which is the only labeling device I am aware of that can print directly on heat shrink tubing for wire labeling so I can do things like *THIS* .


A couple of months ago I stumbled on some serious nerd porn....a network server rack with PERFECT wiring. Here's the video:


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## robertintemple


They were made by Elan... were.  Sadly discontinued.  24 speakers in 1 panel.  I typically don't like breaking wire for any reason.  I wire end to end without any breaks at all.. but, sometimes you have to.  Also painters are evil vindictive people.  In the house with the double racks above I prewired all my wire to the equipment room and wrapped it in brown kraft paper where it exited the ceiling.  It was a bundle about 8 inches in diameter and meticulously labeled with my Dymo 6000.  (love it)   For some unknown reason the painters unwrapped my bundle and painted it!!!  All my labels were mostly unreadable.  Had to tone out and re-label almost every wire...  =8-o

 

I've seen those wire bundleing tools before and have always wanted one.  Glad I know where to order one from now


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## mystic_sniper28

that many cables would do my nut in I would tend to start looking at fiber optic cabling for networking between floors,,


i'd hate to see the cable tv distribution, looking at the sat Tuner here I have 17+ 4 terminal terminations would be a chunk of change in a half just on that install alone..


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## mtbdudex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mtbdudex*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/360#post_14975817
> 
> 
> Basic custom built AV rack.


Here is minor update to my 5 year old post....added 3 sliding drawers to the storage rack for blu-ray

These have the glides on the bottom, they make them with glides on the sides also.

You can see them in the picture, I simply lined each bottom with black thin foamboard from craft store.

They are 20 inch wide x 20 inch deep, you can get different sizes.

Full extending and very strong/robust, perfect for blu-day and other storage in the AV rack.
 


more detail

This is a 20 inch x 20 inch sliding tray, it fully extends:










and as can be seen stores 100+ blu-rays per spot, here is 102


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## TMcG

Nice solution, Mike! Cheap, easy and effective.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertintemple*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1860#post_23885144
> 
> 
> Also painters are evil vindictive people.  In the house with the double racks above I prewired all my wire to the equipment room and wrapped it in brown kraft paper where it exited the ceiling.  It was a bundle about 8 inches in diameter and meticulously labeled with my Dymo 6000.  (love it)   For some unknown reason the painters unwrapped my bundle and painted it!!!  All my labels were mostly unreadable.  Had to tone out and re-label almost every wire...  =8-o



I would have gone into a level 5 carotid flare and sought the GC's help to make heads roll! How incredibly frustrating. I always used Saran wrap to cover the wires instead of craft paper, taking the roll itself and spinning around the wire bundle at a 45 degree angle to get a bit of overlap on each revolution.


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## robertintemple




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23886469
> 
> 
> Nice solution, Mike! Cheap, easy and effective.
> 
> I would have gone into a level 5 carotid flare and sought the GC's help to make heads roll! How incredibly frustrating. I always used Saran wrap to cover the wires instead of craft paper, taking the roll itself and spinning around the wire bundle at a 45 degree angle to get a bit of overlap on each revolution.


Level 5?  wow, I've never cracked level 2...  I let the GC know but nothing really was done about it.. I mean really, what could be done?  I probably had it coming.  I've never seen a sheet of drywall that I didn't want to take my drywall saw to.  I cut holes with furious abandon..

 

Here's another personal favorite rack that I did:

 

Starting on the left and working down:  3 CAT 300x2 amps, 5 CAT 700x2, 2 CAT 250x7

Right side:  Runco DHD4 scaler, DVDO scaler, Crestron CP3 processor, Theta GenVIII D/A Preamp, Theta Compli-Blu 3d Blu-ray player, Theta Casablanca Pre/Pro, Theta Compli-Blu player, Kaleidescape CinemaOne, Integra Blu-ray, Integra receiver, PrimaCinema server

 



 

back of the racks.  The ugly chaotic exit of wires to the left go to another rack hidden in a bathroom housing a Crestron 16x16 HDMI switcher, 7 DirecTV receivers and other miscellaneous equipment that wasn't pretty enough to make the front racks.


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## mtbdudex

We need a thread - for the "common man" - titled "show me your messy rack wiring"










U guys so SUCK with clean, neat, OCD placed wires!!!!!


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## wkearney99

Life's full of 'bad examples'. We've all got mirrors to see that. It's nice to have a thread dedicated to a higher ideal.


That said, if you want to start a messy wiring thread... feel free.


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## AirBenji

Gorgeous work on all of the racks posted above, Robert! I'm not familiar with the CAT amps though - is CAT an abbreviation for something?


I googled quite a bit before posting this in an attempt not to seem uneducated...the closest thing I could find was... http://catsonamps.net/ . I'm guessing this isn't it?


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## robertintemple




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AirBenji*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23896004
> 
> 
> Gorgeous work on all of the racks posted above, Robert! I'm not familiar with the CAT amps though - is CAT an abbreviation for something?
> 
> 
> I googled quite a bit before posting this in an attempt not to seem uneducated...the closest thing I could find was... http://catsonamps.net/ . I'm guessing this isn't it?


California Audio Technology   http://www.calaudiotech.com/

 

Seriously high-end stuff.  Checkout their site and look under "Product Line".. There's a PDF file of their stuff with retail prices.


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## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AirBenji*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23896004
> 
> 
> Gorgeous work on all of the racks posted above, Robert! I'm not familiar with the CAT amps though - is CAT an abbreviation for something?
> 
> 
> I googled quite a bit before posting this in an attempt not to seem uneducated...the closest thing I could find was... http://catsonamps.net/ . I'm guessing this isn't it?



California Audio Technology, makers of ultra high-end gear
http://www.calaudiotech.com/


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## ellisr63




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vincehoffman*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/270#post_14425285
> 
> 
> I guess I ought to preface this rack design post by stating: _Although I currently enjoy my music played back multi-channel style and the same "Big Rig" performs cinema duties, *I'm still very much a hair shirt wearing, "everything-makes-a-difference" audio dweeb.*_ My current predominantly digital signal path and the mostly Meridian gear which play host to it does seem _less_ affected by audiophile tweaks than the tube two-channel gear I once owned. However, I still find attention to S/PDIF cabling, power conditioning, and mechanical vibration isolation all make audibly positive differences. The mix of audio and video in my present Big Rig with video's competing formats requires much more extensive racking. I am happy with some of my gear support elements. The custom Corian sand-box "shelves" and Black Diamond Racing isolation cones and pucks all work brilliantly. However, the row of low welded Target tables under the very heavy "sand box" isolation shelves leave something to be desired in rigidity, but also in effective use of space and aesthetics.
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> Over time the design evolved some. Ultimately I chose to go with brushed thin-wall stainless steel for the frame. A gifted local custom bicycle frame builder, Hugh at True North Cycles , has almost completed the frame with just the final finishing work left to go. Below are pictures of the almost completed rack with close-ups of some of the detail work. Other than the material and finish change, the rack frame remained true to the original design.
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> [email protected]



That is a awesome setup!!!


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## mark_anderson_u

Hi guys


Figured this would be a good place to ask. I have a Sanus Small Parts Panel ( http://www.sanus.com/ca/en/products/av-racks/av-component-accessories/CASPK ) the holds my coax splitter, hd homeruns and few other light components, it's mounted between the posts on the rack, but occassionall I need to get behind it. Anyone know of a hinge mechanism that could be applied to one side, so I could swing it open (or a different product that hinges)?


TIA


mark


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## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23896832
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> Figured this would be a good place to ask. I have a Sanus Small Parts Panel ( http://www.sanus.com/ca/en/products/av-racks/av-component-accessories/CASPK ) the holds my coax splitter, hd homeruns and few other light components, it's mounted between the posts on the rack, but occassionall I need to get behind it. Anyone know of a hinge mechanism that could be applied to one side, so I could swing it open (or a different product that hinges)?
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> 
> mark


 http://www.middleatlantic.com/dcm/wall/hpm.htm


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## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23897066
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/dcm/wall/hpm.htm



Fantastic. Thanks!


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## mark_anderson_u

I thought I'd tap this fount of rack pro knowledge again.


I have 19 speakers (more to be added) run to a central rack. Currently, they are all wired into a the equipment and I'd like to wire them into a patch panel (as I test a lot of equipment, so frequently need to swap out AVR, etc.)


Not sure what's the best way to go Speakon/Neurik or something else. Any suggestions?


Regards


Mark


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## TMcG

Speakon is the preferred professional locking connector for speaker terminations and Neutrik XLR are the preferred professional solution for signal transfer.


Middle Atlantic makes panels for both (and virtually any other connector, actually) that can be assembled on a hinged rack frame or a fixed mount: http://www.sesystems.com/Middle-Atlantic-UNIV6-Universal-XLR-Speakon-Panel-P1046.aspx 


Banana plugs would be the next alternative for speaker wire, but since they do not offer a positive locking connection (although many of the high-end bananas offer a pressure-enhancing mechanism) they can be pulled out rather easily.


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## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23899248
> 
> 
> Speakon is the preferred professional locking connector for speaker terminations and Neutrik XLR are the preferred professional solution for signal transfer.
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic makes panels for both (and virtually any other connector, actually) that can be assembled on a hinged rack frame or a fixed mount: http://www.sesystems.com/Middle-Atlantic-UNIV6-Universal-XLR-Speakon-Panel-P1046.aspx
> 
> 
> Banana plugs would be the next alternative for speaker wire, but since they do not offer a positive locking connection (although many of the high-end bananas offer a pressure-enhancing mechanism) they can be pulled out rather easily.



Thanks TMcG. Will skip the bananas. Sounds like speakon may be the way to go. Will check out the MA stuff


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## wkearney99

Me, I'd be most concerned about making sure the wires you can't easily replace won't get damaged. That's usually the in-wall stuff leading out to the speakers. For those I'd definitely want to have them terminated permanently.


Then it's just a matter of how you want to cross-connect from them to the various bits of gear you're 'testing'. For those your patch cords are either going to have bare ends or plugs? There's either banana or the pin kind. Perhaps others?


If you have bare ends just make sure cables are long enough to allow for the eventual cutting back they'd need if they got frayed. Being sure to be careful about those stray bits of stranded wire that fall off...


Also consider the orientation and clearance necessary for the various plugs and sockets. As in, the plug sticks out a fair bit and then the cable has to be managed differently that something more flush to the surface. Right angle plugs help keep them closer, but then you need more vertical space on the panel.


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## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23899387
> 
> 
> If you have bare ends just make sure cables are long enough to allow for the eventual cutting back they'd need if they got frayed. Being sure to be careful about those stray bits of stranded wire that fall off...



I'm not a big fan of bare wire connections for some of the reasons you stated, but "tinning" the wire strands with a bit of silver solder is a strategy that will dramatically increase the robustness of the wire from strand damage.


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## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23899387
> 
> 
> Me, I'd be most concerned about making sure the wires you can't easily replace won't get damaged. That's usually the in-wall stuff leading out to the speakers. For those I'd definitely want to have them terminated permanently.
> 
> 
> Then it's just a matter of how you want to cross-connect from them to the various bits of gear you're 'testing'. For those your patch cords are either going to have bare ends or plugs? There's either banana or the pin kind. Perhaps others?
> 
> 
> If you have bare ends just make sure cables are long enough to allow for the eventual cutting back they'd need if they got frayed. Being sure to be careful about those stray bits of stranded wire that fall off...
> 
> 
> Also consider the orientation and clearance necessary for the various plugs and sockets. As in, the plug sticks out a fair bit and then the cable has to be managed differently that something more flush to the surface. Right angle plugs help keep them closer, but then you need more vertical space on the panel.



Thanks Bill



Yeah, definitely either want locking connectors or screw down into back of panel for the stuff coming from the walls. And then ideally same on the front.


I use banana plugs on all the equipment, so would presumably be using speakon (or whatever I choose) to the equipment. When I want to test a new AVR, I'd unplug the Speakons from he front and connect a spare set of cables with banana plugs to the gear under test. The speakon panels I've seem so far seem to have pretty small connectors on back (defintitely want screw and not solder)


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## Van G

Can I use a plexi glass or another lighter than glass product to fit into my door panel?


If I want to do a full pane of glass as a door, what sort if hinges and adhesive can I use?


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## Pain Infliction

You can drill through acrylic and it is mor clear than glass and weighs less too. As far as using it as a door, that's up to you.


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## iceaxe


Need help please identifying the make/model of used rack I just bought. Outside dimensions are 25” deep, 22” wide and 7’ tall. I have sides, top and back door. Missing the front door. Suggestions on how I can identify this cabinet to purchase accessories. Thanks!


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## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iceaxe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23939960
> 
> 
> Need help please identifying the make/model of used rack I just bought. Outside dimensions are 25” deep, 22” wide and 7’ tall. I have sides, top and back door. Missing the front door. Suggestions on how I can identify this cabinet to purchase accessories. Thanks!



Racks are pretty standard sizes. As long as fixed length items like shelves are correct depth, you can buy most accessories from anywhere


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## Pain Infliction

Mark is correct. If the mounting holes are 19", and they probably are, your good to go


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## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23940626
> 
> 
> Mark is correct. If the mounting holes are 19", and they probably are, your good to go



A door might be tricky though. I think those are pretty much vendor specific, aren't they?


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## Pain Infliction

probably, but I was mentioning about the standard 19" shelves and components that mount to a 19" rack. Most people do not have doors on their racks so I didn't even think about that.


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## Neurorad

Pictures with a camera may help; hard to see any details.


After you take some real pictures, you may try emailing a few to some manufacturers (Tech Support), if you don't have luck here. I'd try Lowell and Raxess/Chief first. I don't think it's MA, but wouldn't hurt to email them too.


Look closer for stamped marks.


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## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iceaxe*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1890#post_23939960
> 
> 
> Suggestions on how I can identify this cabinet to purchase accessories. Thanks!


It'd be rare for there to be no part numbers on at least some parts of it. Given it a really thorough looking-over to see if you can find a part number on it somewhere. Even look underneath.


As has been suggested, pictures with sharper details, in better lighting would help. Especially if there's something unusual about some part of it. Shelves and space covers are pretty generic, but a fan deck or something specific to that rack might help ring a bell.


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## TMcG

Actually, not as rare as you'd think. Most racks come with a sticker that identifies the part number. Remove the sticker and....well....you're left to solving a mystery....


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## alexktz

Well I got quite a lot of inspiration before starting my Sunday project today. Here's a before and after pic, then some during. I'll also take some time to explain my setup as I think it's pretty neat!


** If you're interested in finding out more about how I did what I did, I blog as I go and all my instructions are available here - blog.ktz.me **


During the summer I set out to consolidate my desktop, htpc and unraid server into one box using virtualisation. The results, I'm pleased to say, exceeded my pre-project expectations! I now have one box running 4 OSs concurrently, including a Windows virtual machine with full VGA passthrough which I use as my daily desktop (see pic at the bottom) but also for flawless gaming. Quick rundown of the OSs:


Dom0 (Host) - Arch Linux with Xen 4.3 and XBMC

- Utilises the CPU built-in graphics to run XBMC via a HDMI splitter to my TV in the lounge and kitchen. Only requires 15GB of SSD space and 1GB RAM to run, this is why I love Arch (among other reasons).


DomU1 - unRAID

- 18TB of protected storage available for usage by all VMs and acts as a NAS device


DomU2 - Windows 8.1 (with full 3d VGA passthrough)

- The really nifty bit here isn't the running of Windows as a VM or even the VGA passthrough, it's that I figured out a way using DevManView to automatically eject the card on reboot (this made Windows unusable before). It has been working flawlessly for over 3 months so I'd say it's ready for primetime!


DomU3 - Arch VM

- For Sab, Sickbeard, PLex etc...


Before:
 


After:
 
 
 


During:
 
 
 


My Desk (which I also built from MDF as it's rented accommodation so wanted something cheap!):


** It should be noted that the computer on the desk is my testbench, what's driving the monitors on the desk is the machine pictured above (with the silly blue neon fans that were stock fans). I ran 2x 20m HDMI cables up to the monitors and a USB over Cat6 cable to achieve "remote computing" bliss.


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## tiguej

My OmniMount RE42 AV Rack


•Standard 19” rack enclosure works with all standard 19” rack accessories

•Heavy-gauge steel construction

•Fully enclosed cooling system with top and bottom ventilation

•Includes pre-installed cooling fans on top

•Lockable tempered-glass left- or right-hinged front door

•Removable side panels for easy servicing

•Adjustable feet level and stabilize rack without interfering with casters

•Top and bottom cable routing knockouts

•Front and back can be swapped and are on hinges

•Side panels are lockable (locks not included)

•Accepts front or rear rack mounted components

•Caster base provides easy placement inside closets or against walls

•Ships assembled

•Includes complete hardware kit

•Includes:

•(1) 42-space rack

•(2) 5U-space shelves with cable ties

•(7) 2U-space shelves

•(9) 2U-space solid blanks

•Weight capacity:

•RE42 supports up to 1100 lbs (500 kg)

•5U shelf supports up to 100 lbs (45.4 kg)

•2U shelf supports up to 50 lbs (22.7 kg)


----------



## Randall.White




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *John H*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/450#post_15762097
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have to many build photos.
> 
> 
> 
> John



I realize this is from a long time ago bug I thought I'd ask anyways.


Do you have anymore pics of the finished product? I really like the clean look to this.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall.White*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_100#post_24079424
> 
> 
> I realize this is from a long time ago bug I thought I'd ask anyways.
> 
> 
> Do you have anymore pics of the finished product? I really like the clean look to this.



Here ya go.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1082749/red-mountain-cinema-build/0_100


----------



## Randall.White

^^^ Thank you.


----------



## gdfein

Quick question. What Ethernet switches are most of you using in your racks? I'm doing a list of needs so that my installer incorporates everything into the Slim-5-37 unit we are building for my media room. I'm thinking that I have 9 (ATV, Sonos, NAS, DTV, AVR, PS3, XBOX, BDP, and PJ) devices that I want wired in, and would like to leave room for an Htpc and future needs. This is also just a single room at the moment. I currently use a small 8 port netgear and it always looks sloppy and it doesn't have the extra capacity or POE that some home automation needs.


The rack will have a door on it. I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing.


I'm curious what others have done in their racks for Ethernet.


----------



## TMcG

Pakedge is the the only company I am aware of that puts the ethernet ports on the back, but they are very "spendy" units, especially for the managed switches. An alternative would be looking at well-loved units on eBay.


I wouldn't worry about having PoE integrated into the switch....there are plenty of injectors available that are cheap and easy to flip out if they ever fail. Plus some PoE devices need 15.4 watts whereas most require much less. I'd get a good 1U 24 port managed Gigabit switch from Cisco and be done with it. To preserve the clean look, I'd mount the unit backwards on a rear rack rail vs. the front rail. The equivalent rack space on the front would get a simple solid blank panel to conceal the switch's presence.


----------



## gdfein

Thanks TMcG. That must be what most do as you don't see switches in these rack-bling pics that folks post.


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdfein*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24158524
> 
> 
> Thanks TMcG. That must be what most do as you don't see switches in these rack-bling pics that folks post.



OR....there is a smaller secondary rack reserved for networking equipment, patch panels, etc. that run the back end of the system. That's been used many times before as well.


----------



## Done Deal DR

I use a 24 port unmanaged Cisco small business switch in my MA rack (fed by a cat6 run from my primary router) that of course has front ports/activity lights, along with an MA brush grommet panel for wire passthrough, only maybe 2" of wire is exposed and each cable it bent and installed uniformly. It's as clean as you can get IMO for a home AV rack install, when you need plenty of ports for AV gear, remote systems, runs to other systems in the home, etc.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cablem/cablem.htm#BrushGrometPanel


----------



## mark_anderson_u

Is there a reason you can't mount the switch at the back. That's what I do. you don't want one without LED's and I'd be surprised if anyone makes one.


I currently use the trendNet 24port, but you need to buy rack ears seaprately

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044GH27U/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## robertintemple


I mounted mine in the back of the rack, but vertically due to lack of room.  I like it very much that way as it doesn't consume any U's.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24160649
> 
> 
> Is there a reason you can't mount the switch at the back. That's what I do. you don't want one without LED's and I'd be surprised if anyone makes one.
> 
> 
> I currently use the trendNet 24port, but you need to buy rack ears seaprately
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044GH27U/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Good point that I forgot to mention. I could only fit a 20" depth ERK rack and it's completely sealed (rear door, front face plates, vents blocked), I depend on what little space I have in the rear of the rack for airflow/thermal management between the lower intake fan and upper exhaust fan.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24163159
> 
> 
> Good point that I forgot to mention. I could only fit a 20" depth ERK rack and it's completely sealed (rear door, front face plates, vents blocked), I depend on what little space I have in the rear of the rack for airflow/thermal management between the lower intake fan and upper exhaust fan.



The solutions I can see then are:

Mount it set back a few inches (I did this with mine) and then cover it with a 1U blanking plate (a hinged one would be best. so you don't have to take out 4 screws to plug/unplug a cable)

Similar to above: put it on a shelf with a hinged front cover

Use a sheet of dimming material to subdue the led intensity (like LightDims: http://www.amazon.com/LightDims%C2%AE-Get-All-Four-Products/dp/B00AQ9TPQK/ref=pd_sim_misc_6 )


Regards


mark


----------



## Tedd

Could work from the backside, gives your gear a 3" recess.

rackrailrecessbrackets.JPG 47k .JPG file


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24164789
> 
> 
> The solutions I can see then are:
> 
> Mount it set back a few inches (I did this with mine) and then cover it with a 1U blanking plate (a hinged one would be best. so you don't have to take out 4 screws to plug/unplug a cable)
> 
> Similar to above: put it on a shelf with a hinged front cover
> 
> Use a sheet of dimming material to subdue the led intensity (like LightDims: http://www.amazon.com/LightDims%C2%AE-Get-All-Four-Products/dp/B00AQ9TPQK/ref=pd_sim_misc_6 )
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> mark



I think you may be confusing me with somebody else, I have mine mounted regularly in the front and love it, Activity LEDs do not bother me with the location of the rack.


----------



## tqlla

Here are some pics of my home theater room. Its still in construction, but the Audio/Video are complete.


I am running

Panasonic BDT-500 Blu Ray player handles the audio processing and sends LPCM to my AVR. (it can convert HD 5.1 to 7.1)

Harman Kardon AVR 347 as my HDMI switcher and processor

Harman Kardon AVR 635 as a 7 channel amplifier

Kenwood MX-5000 2 channel amplifier

Kenwood DV-5700 DVD player

HSU VTF-2

HSU STF-2

Sony VPL-VW50

Elite Screens 108" Silver Frame CineGrey screen

7X Snell 8" ceiling speakers powered by the Harman Kardon AVR 347

2X Athena AS-F2 speakers powered by the Kenwood MX 5000

3X Athena AS-F2, 2X AS-B1, 2X AS-R1 powered by the Harman Kardon AVR-635


Kenwood VR-5700 and DV-5900M are just there, without power.

The glass shelves are 5/8" from two OmniMount Studio 3B stands.


Originally, I intended on just using the Athena's and leaving the Ceiling speakers for show. But I decided to test them against each other. When I tried them together they sounded amazing. I ended up replacing my Kenwood Vr5700 with the AVR-635 because I wanted to use all 16.2 speakers.


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24166318
> 
> 
> I think you may be confusing me with somebody else, I have mine mounted regularly in the front and love it, Activity LEDs do not bother me with the location of the rack.



Sorry mis-unederstood. Took this to mean you didn't want to see the LED's


" I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24167432
> 
> 
> I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."


'


As mentioned above, Pakedge has network switches with all the ports in the rear: http://www.pakedge.com/products-switches.html


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24167432
> 
> 
> Sorry mis-unederstood. Took this to mean you didn't want to see the LED's
> 
> 
> " I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."



I never said that, believe that was another member.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24164789
> 
> Mount it set back a few inches (I did this with mine) and then cover it with a 1U blanking plate (a hinged one would be best. so you don't have to take out 4 screws to plug/unplug a cable)
> Similar to above: put it on a shelf with a hinged front cover
> Use a sheet of dimming material to subdue the led intensity (like LightDims: http://www.amazon.com/LightDims%C2%AE-Get-All-Four-Products/dp/B00AQ9TPQK/ref=pd_sim_misc_6 )


Also, if you have the depth, use knurled screws to install the faceplate. Then at least you're not faced with using a screwdriver every time you need to get to the equipment. Screws tend to get scraped and lose their black paint over time. Whereas a knurled screw won't. But then you also have a knobby-looking screw sticking up. 6 of one, half-dozen...


I prefer to avoid getting network gear that's custom. You pay too much and then don't have a decent upgrade or replacement path should something go wrong.


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24167645
> 
> 
> Also, if you have the depth, use knurled screws to install the faceplate. Then at least you're not faced with using a screwdriver every time you need to get to the equipment.



If you have a lot of depth, there's also quick-release fasteners (if you can find them in stock). They have a separate stud and knurled cap. The stud stays in the rack. When installed they look like this (ignore the blue arrow):











The main downside is that if you have a washer between the faceplate and cap, it has to be removed/replaced every time. The mounting part of the stud is also slightly larger than a 10-32 screw, so if a vendor cuts really thin slots into their rack ears they might not fit over the studs -- APC is the most common offender I've run into.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dododge*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24169088
> 
> 
> If you have a lot of depth, there's also quick-release fasteners (if you can find them in stock). They have a separate stud and knurled cap. The stud stays in the rack. When installed they look like this (ignore the blue arrow):
> 
> 
> The main downside is that if you have a washer between the faceplate and cap, it has to be removed/replaced every time. The mounting part of the stud is also slightly larger than a 10-32 screw, so if a vendor cuts really thin slots into their rack ears they might not fit over the studs -- APC is the most common offender I've run into.



True. I've used both styles and didn't mention the stud because of that. What's worse than mismatched screw heads? Mismatched washers under them! When I tore down the old house I must've found at least two dozen screws and washers that'd gotten dropped and lost over time... But still not enough to make complete sets! I'm guessing for the next rack I'll tally up the number of screws and washers needed and, well, QUADRUPLE IT. ;>


I've found the stud kind most useful when I need to lift something into place and don't have someone else to handle the load. Lift it up on to two of the studs and then use a knurled screw (the one piece kind) to quickly secure it. I usually later go back and replace both with regular screws. Very helpful to have a pair of stud posts on the rack to rest the weight of the gear when muscling it all into place... says the man putting off repopulating his racks in the new house...


----------



## dododge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24169194
> 
> 
> I've found the stud kind most useful when I need to lift something into place and don't have someone else to handle the load. Lift it up on to two of the studs and then use a knurled screw (the one piece kind) to quickly secure it.



I agree that's really their killer feature; they can make it a _lot_ easier to get equipment in and out of the rack by yourself. Pretty much all of my stuff is on shelves these days but I can recall many unpleasant past experiences of trying to hold something into place with one hand while getting a screw started through a mounting ear with the other.


> Quote:
> Mismatched washers under them!



Yeah I made the mistake of putting a bunch of rack washers into a single container, so now whenever I'm installing stuff I find myself spending a couple minutes trying to find ones that fit right. They all look identical at first glance but a fraction of a mm turns out to be significant.


----------



## dsiroky

I'm using a middle altantic rack - haven't put in any custom face plates yet, but it seems to just barely fit all my equipment.


The rack sits behind an acoustic panel, and I made a hinge in one side of the panel / split the panel in two in order to be able to hide all the equipment behind it.


I put an IR receiver in the front of the room, and a distributor in behind the rack. Seems to work pretty well so far.
 
 


to be honest, I'm slightly above the weight limit for this rack, so when I slide the unit out, I pop a small supporting table I have underneath it temporarily to make sure nothing bad happens. If budget permitted I would have purchased the larger rack with the built in supporting feet - but the budget didn't stretch that far.


On the bottom are 7 x Outlaw monoblock amps, and above that an Adcom 5400 that i use to drive my clark synthesis transducers. Processor is an Onkyo PR-SC5509.


The same rack also holds a component video matrix switch, along with an AV/Receiver for a room upstairs


----------



## TheAstronaut

Great pics!


Looking to build out a rack myself, what blank panel style does everyone prefer? I've noticed MA has different styles/materials/finishes and wondered which series was the most liked.


----------



## TMcG

The black anodized is the premium finish and looks way better than the simple powder coat IMHO. And if you get vent panels, get the ones with the smaller holes. It will still provide plenty of ventilation and will look much sharper than the wide open vent panels.


----------



## Done Deal DR

I agree on the black brushed and anodized finish, it's the preferable finish for most applications. My Oppo and Pioneer Elite receiver blend perfectly into the them, making for a very seamless look. Some of my other equipment like the Xbox One don't blend quite as well, but still looks great.


----------



## TheAstronaut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24214668
> 
> 
> The black anodized is the premium finish and looks way better than the simple powder coat IMHO. And if you get vent panels, get the ones with the smaller holes. It will still provide plenty of ventilation and will look much sharper than the wide open vent panels.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24215102
> 
> 
> I agree on the black brushed and anodized finish, it's the preferable finish for most applications. My Oppo and Pioneer Elite receiver blend perfectly into the them, making for a very seamless look. Some of my other equipment like the Xbox One don't blend quite as well, but still looks great.



Thanks guys, that's kind of what I was leaning towards. The brushed panels definitely look better and will match the fronts of my equipment, but come in at about twice the price of the powder coated ones. The rack is going to be portable, so both sides might be visible but I think I can get away with just using the brushed for the front and the regular finish on the back (won't match my UCP panels, but oh well).


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAstronaut*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24215172
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, that's kind of what I was leaning towards. The brushed panels definitely look better and will match the fronts of my equipment, but come in at about twice the price of the powder coated ones. The rack is going to be portable, so both sides might be visible but I think I can get away with just using the brushed for the front and the regular finish on the back (won't match my UCP panels, but oh well).



You're going to be installing plates on the rear as well? How will you access the equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding but if you want access to the rear and want it covered for a clean look, opt for a rack with a rear door (I did, went with the MA ERK line).


----------



## TheAstronaut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24215204
> 
> 
> You're going to be installing plates on the rear as well? How will you access the equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding but if you want access to the rear and want it covered for a clean look, opt for a rack with a rear door (I did, went with the MA ERK line).



Yes, the rack is a 10U Gator Case rolling rack, it has front and rear rails. It will be used mostly for outdoor movies at multiple locations so it will have to be moved around a lot. All of the connections to the equipment will be wired to keystone or Speakon jacks to make connecting/disconnecting the equipment easier. Once everything is wired to the jacks on the rear panel I shouldn't need to access the back of the equipment very often but I will probably use a 3 or 4 RU panel on the back with thumbscrews to allow easy access should I need it. Budget is my biggest constraint for the project and the case was an irresistible deal on CL.


You can check out my portable rack thread in my sig to see (and unfortunately poor cellphone) picture of the case and read a little more about the project if you're interested.


I do appreciate the advice everyone on AVS has given me, I've only had the HT bug for about two years now and there's still so much to learn!









/endthreadjack


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAstronaut*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_50#post_24215523
> 
> 
> Yes, the rack is a 10U Gator Case rolling rack, it has front and rear rails. It will be used mostly for outdoor movies at multiple locations so it will have to be moved around a lot. All of the connections to the equipment will be wired to keystone or Speakon jacks to make connecting/disconnecting the equipment easier. Once everything is wired to the jacks on the rear panel I shouldn't need to access the back of the equipment very often but I will probably use a 3 or 4 RU panel on the back with thumbscrews to allow easy access should I need it. Budget is my biggest constraint for the project and the case was an irresistible deal on CL.
> 
> 
> You can check out my portable rack thread in my sig to see (and unfortunately poor cellphone) picture of the case and read a little more about the project if you're interested.
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the advice everyone on AVS has given me, I've only had the HT bug for about two years now and there's still so much to learn!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /endthreadjack



That makes much more sense and I will definitely check the link out!


----------



## Slingblayde

Hi Guys, I love the rack pics, I seen a picture of someones rack that had a blue temperature display like this pic that Ive attached. What kind of temp gauge is that? I cant find anything like it on the MA site, or on the internet. I have a Slim 5 37 and would like to have this at the top just so I can keep an eye on the temp with a quick glance.


Cheers!


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1920#post_24244229
> 
> 
> Hi Guys, I love the rack pics, I seen a picture of someones rack that had a blue temperature display like this pic that Ive attached. What kind of temp gauge is that? I cant find anything like it on the MA site, or on the internet. I have a Slim 5 37 and would like to have this at the top just so I can keep an eye on the temp with a quick glance.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



cooler guys et al sell those. you can find on amazon


----------



## OPPIZ

Can be bought here.
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgtmdled.html 
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556090885.html 
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556100584.html 
http://www.coolerguys.com/rackcool.html


----------



## Slingblayde

Thanks for the info guys! thats exactly what im looking for.


----------



## Tedd

Im guessing that is another manufacturer's display but MA does sell them.:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/decora/decora.htm


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24245197
> 
> 
> Im guessing that is another manufacturer's display but MA does sell them.:
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/decora/decora.htm



Thanks Tedd. I couldn't find anything by MA for it. That's a nice piece of hardware but I think I am going to go with the one from Coolerguys. Its only 15 bucks from them and it has blue lighting to match other component lights.


----------



## fajita123

Found this rack for sale locally - any help identifying and putting a price to it?

​


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fajita123*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24250929
> 
> 
> Found this rack for sale locally - any help identifying and putting a price to it?
> 
> ​



No idea of brand. Would pay more than $100 for it, as it has no glass door, no shelves to speak of and is scratched


----------



## fajita123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24251205
> 
> 
> No idea of brand. Would pay more than $100 for it, as it has no glass door, no shelves to speak of and is scratched



It is a Middle Atlantic and includes the 20 amp power strips (two). They're asking $200 for the lot.


PDT-1020C-NS 37-3/4" 20 Amp 10 9' cord circuit breaker only

http://www.middleatlantic.com/power/pdt.htm 


Edit: My best guess would be ERK-3525-AV (looks similar, 35U, 22" wide, includes power strips) but I have no clue.


----------



## Slingblayde

Nice rack. If you can weasel it for 150 or so I'd jump on it. Even if its wider than I need. Are those really scratches on the side? Looks like it has been wiped with a dirty cloth or something. Things like the fan panel are expensive in itself. If you're getting the rack and all the stuff in the pics I'd buy it. But that's just me.


----------



## fajita123

Thanks. I'm going to look at it this weekend was just looking for some info before hand.


----------



## auburnu008

It is definitely a ERK.Good deal at $200. The fans and power strips are close to $200 alone.


----------



## Tedd

$200 is a solid deal since the case has three ventilations fans, front and rear doors plus accessories like

some cable management and power strips.


Watch for stripped holes in the rack rails. Rattle can hammered finish spray paint can easily clean up

rack rash and give you a brand new finish.


----------



## Claybe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fajita123*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24250929
> 
> 
> Found this rack for sale locally - any help identifying and putting a price to it?
> 
> ​



Does it mean something that the outlets are orange?


----------



## fajita123

Yes that they are 20 amp. Thanks for the responses!


----------



## Tedd

I thought orange meant an isolated ground.


And the T slot pin means 20A.


----------



## fajita123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24252435
> 
> 
> I thought orange meant an isolated ground.
> 
> 
> And the T slot pin means 20A.



Oh, maybe I'm just used to seeing them together. You're right that they are always T slot as well, I just always see them orange too.


----------



## brickyardz

Looking to build new rack, I do not have that many components. Arcam AVR 750, PS Audio Powerplay 8000, Sony PS4, Verizon Fios box, I will probably add a XboxOne, and a stand alone bluray player later on. I have always liked the Middle Atlantic stuff, with all the faceplates,and the super clean look. What should Iook at? Also want to be able to keep all of my gear cool. I have my gear on an open tv stand that takes up way too much space, looking to get rid of that. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Tedd

I use a Middle Atlantic Slim5 rack with a pair of fans up top. It's built into a dedicated av closet.

The fans pull air up and out, which then vent through a grill in the wall. You don't want any vents in

the uppermost 6 or 7U of the rack to short circuit the cooling tower.


If you want a free standing rack, then you could screw plywood sides to the Slim5 from inside the

rack. The holes are already there. And there is a whole range of accessories like doors available.

A rear door will help with having the fans pull cool air through the rack.


You also might want to look at some wiring rails for the back of the rack.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_100#post_24253272
> 
> 
> I use a Middle Atlantic Slim5 rack with a pair of fans up top. It's built into a dedicated av closet.
> 
> The fans pull air up and out, which then vent through a grill in the wall. You don't want any vents in
> 
> the uppermost 6 or 7U of the rack to short circuit the cooling tower.
> 
> 
> If you want a free standing rack, then you could screw plywood sides to the Slim5 from inside the
> 
> rack. The holes are already there. And there is a whole range of accessories like doors available.
> 
> A rear door will help with having the fans pull cool air through the rack.
> 
> 
> You also might want to look at some wiring rails for the back of the rack.



I personally would not put any vents in the rack and let the fans up top pull the air through the rack from the bottom. That is, if you have sides and a back door. This is the way I used to have my setup before the way I have it now. Just put a cooler guys temperature controlled fan setup up top because it is way cheaper and it will get the job done.


----------



## BllDo

If you have passively cooled amplifiers, you will need to put vent blanks between the amps. Tedd's suggestion is generally what MA recommends in their white paper on cooling.


----------



## Tedd

That is a blanket statement that may, or may not, be a good way to outfit your rack. You need to consider your individual electronics

and how air flows through them.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950_50#post_24253875
> 
> 
> That is a blanket statement that may, or may not, be a good way to outfit your rack. You need to consider your individual electronics
> 
> and how air flows through them.



+1 read the thermal white papers provided by MA on various considerations to take.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BllDo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24253795
> 
> 
> If you have passively cooled amplifiers, you will need to put vent blanks between the amps. Tedd's suggestion is generally what MA recommends in their white paper on cooling.


Yes. Blanks but not vents. Just saying what I do.


----------



## BllDo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24254531
> 
> 
> Yes. Blanks but not vents. Just saying what I do.



Yes vents. Just sayin what Middle Atlantic recomends.

_pg 17_


----------



## Done Deal DR

It still depends on the type of cooling you have set up. If you have no forced air set up, and the equipment matches that particular set up, then that would be the proper way to implement it in that case.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BllDo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24254764
> 
> 
> Yes vents. Just sayin what Middle Atlantic recomends.
> 
> _pg 17_


actually MA shows many ways but you only post the way you are talking about. Like others have said, it depends on configuration and what I posted is what I do. Just saying.


----------



## Tedd

Yes MA does, but it sure reads like you threw down a "blanks, not vents" challenge. In my case, I have only one stereo amp in the rack, mounted down low,

but vented plates are a must have in my rack, or I'd baking my electronics with 800 watts per channel (stereo) of class AB, 1 ohm capable amp. The electronics

above, would have a lifespan measured in months, without the benefit of cooler air being drawn in through out the rack.


You also get far better cooling with a wider rack if you don't want to use vent plates. A narrow rack solution like a Slim5 when framed in, doesn't always let a lot of air to

components with recessed lower front vents. Some components like some HD DVD players and the original PS3 greatly benefit from a vented faceplate mounted directly

under them when installed in a narrow rack solution such as a Slim5. The face plate and the front of the shelf, act as a baffle and can limit air into some components.


Done Deal DR, you can use vent plates with fans pulling air through the rack. You should NOT short circuit the fans by using a vent panel in the upper 6-8U of

the rack. And that includes dealing with the built in vent panel in the top section of the Slim5. MA offers a magnetic strip to seal off this vent to be installed from the

backside, or one could simply install a flat face plate.


----------



## Done Deal DR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tedd*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950_50#post_24256082
> 
> 
> 
> Done Deal DR, you can use vent plates with fans pulling air through the rack. You should NOT short circuit the fans by using a vent panel in the upper 6-8U of
> 
> the rack. And that includes dealing with the built in vent panel in the top section of the Slim5. MA offers a magnetic strip to seal off this vent to be installed from the
> 
> backside, or one could simply install a flat face plate.



When did I ever say any of that? (hint: never







)


For the record, I am using a forced air system aiding in natural convection. My MA ERK rack is virtually completely sealed with the magnetic strips, installed in a narrow wall with front and rear access, has a top designer UQFP 4 fan exhaust which expels the naturally rising heat and a bottom UQFP intake panel draws in cool ambient room temperature air. The natural convection pulls that colder air up and out, cooling the components in the process. All of the front is sealed with plates, no vents. I set this up using the MA thermal white papers in accordance with my particular application and installation, which is what I would recommend everyone does when setting up a rack. Don't just do something because it works for some one else, who is using different equipment, rack, and installation location. Research the thermal white papers and do what works for your installation.


My rack has never exceeded 81-82 degrees Fahrenheit, and it's located directly next to an exterior wall in Arizona.


----------



## BllDo

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I can't seem to find a good reference to it. What is the best way to mix pro-amps that vent back to front with other electronics that are either passive cooling or traditional front to back venting?


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BllDo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1950#post_24256627
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I can't seem to find a good reference to it. What is the best way to mix pro-amps that vent back to front with other electronics that are either passive cooling or traditional front to back venting?



Most have opened it up and reversed the fan 180 degrees to pull from the front and go out the back, at least with the Behringer amps. I can't find the posts, but I recall there were some guys that got really serious about measuring the internal temperatures with the fan reversed and everything was fine from an operational perspective.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Done Deal DR*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_100#post_24256396
> 
> 
> When did I ever say any of that? (hint: never
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> For the record, I am using a forced air system aiding in natural convection. My MA ERK rack is virtually completely sealed with the magnetic strips, installed in a narrow wall with front and rear access, has a top designer UQFP 4 fan exhaust which expels the naturally rising heat and a bottom UQFP intake panel draws in cool ambient room temperature air. The natural convection pulls that colder air up and out, cooling the components in the process. All of the front is sealed with plates, no vents. I set this up using the MA thermal white papers in accordance with my particular application and installation, which is what I would recommend everyone does when setting up a rack. Don't just do something because it works for some one else, who is using different equipment, rack, and installation location. Research the thermal white papers and do what works for your installation.
> 
> 
> My rack has never exceeded 81-82 degrees Fahrenheit, and it's located directly next to an exterior wall in Arizona.



+1 on all accounts.


Tedd.....I do believe having a sealed rack with venting only at the bottom with fans at the top is a better way of removing the heat. This is actually how we do most of our electronics in my field and this is the way that I do my rack as well.


----------



## BllDo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24258514
> 
> 
> +1 on all accounts.
> 
> 
> Tedd.....I do believe having a sealed rack with venting only at the bottom with fans at the top is a better way of removing the heat. This is actually how we do most of our electronics in my field and this is the way that I do my rack as well.



What industry are you in?


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24258514
> 
> 
> +1 on all accounts.
> 
> 
> Tedd.....I do believe having a sealed rack with venting only at the bottom with fans at the top is a better way of removing the heat. This is actually how we do most of our electronics in my field and this is the way that I do my rack as well.



Always wondered about this. When they say "sealed" do they mean just to use blanking plates and no vents in the sides, front and back or something more scientific/precise? For example you had a model AVR that has about 1/2-inch space all way round, is that adequate, or do you need to shell out $100+ on custom faceplate


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BllDo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_100#post_24259245
> 
> 
> What industry are you in?




CNC electrical. I little bit of computers and programming and all electrical. Plus we do retrofits. Here is a link https://www.facebook.com/pages/Arrow-Controls/175842279118218 . I have made some music videos on the page as well.


The part that refers to this topic is cooling the cabinets with the computers or other heat generating components. All cabinets are completely sealed except for the vents for the intake or exhaust fans, and the intake or exhaust vents.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1900_100#post_24259286
> 
> 
> Always wondered about this. When they say "sealed" do they mean just to use blanking plates and no vents in the sides, front and back or something more scientific/precise? For example you had a model AVR that has about 1/2-inch space all way round, is that adequate, or do you need to shell out $100+ on custom faceplate



When I say sealed, I am talking about completely sealed all the way around and I use the face plates as well.


----------



## jautor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24259364
> 
> 
> The part that refers to this topic is cooling the cabinets with the computers or other heat generating components. All cabinets are completely sealed except for the vents for the intake or exhaust fans, and the intake or exhaust vents.



That is correct for rack-based computer / IT equipment which is actively cooled and designed solely for rack-mounting. They are designed to be stacked on top of each other, with all cooling coming in from the front of the unit and exhausting to the back.


> Quote:
> When I say sealed, I am talking about completely sealed all the way around and I use the face plates as well.



Yes, but this assumes active (fan-powered) cooling within each component. For a lot of our AV equipment, there won't be a true front-to-back cooling pathway, which is why MA shows the spaces and vents, coupled with top-of-rack exhaust fans to pull air across the passive-cooled components.



Jeff


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24259364
> 
> 
> When I say sealed, I am talking about completely sealed all the way around and I use the face plates as well.



I guess what I'm getting at is how "complete" is complete


----------



## Pain Infliction

Well there will be some air gaps in the rack between plates. I have sides and a back door on at the time. Now I don't because I put ac in my av closet. Since then my temps never go above 78 and sometimes I have hit 67-69. I have my server in my closet as well.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark_anderson_u*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24259471
> 
> 
> I guess what I'm getting at is how "complete" is complete


Complete or not, would you folks mind moving this to it's own message thread? It's a topic certainly worth discussing, but perhaps not in this particular thread.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24259540
> 
> 
> Complete or not, would you folks mind moving this to it's own message thread? It's a topic certainly worth discussing, but perhaps not in this particular thread.


You're kidding right?


----------



## superleo

^^^


Oh well, If you haven't seen this thread ... http://www.avsforum.com/t/1363685/kudos-to-all-on-topic-posters 



And if you really want to stay on topic then here you go:

 




And if you are from Texas, you would get this:

 




So considering then, a conversation about rack cooling applies.


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^. Love it! Lmao!



Nice rack too! The top pic.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24259593
> 
> _Your_ kidding right?



Not at all. Why drag this one off-topic arguing the point? If _you're_ that certain of _your_ opinions on this matter then _you're_ certainly welcome to start a thread on it.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Sorry for compromising a very low volume thread. Please do not give me a ticked forum police.


I all reality....we never really got off topic.


----------



## Pain Infliction

I would like to add, I forgot to say yesterday, that I called emotive when I bought their amps and asked them about this very subject. They said that as long as there is a 2u space between their amps there would not be an issue.


----------



## gdfein

This cooling topic is quite stimulating although not as much so as Superleo's offering at #1990.


That must be the new Slim 5-37DD.


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24263166
> 
> 
> I would like to add, I forgot to say yesterday, that I called emotive when I bought their amps and asked them about this very subject. They said that as long as there is a 2u space between their amps there would not be an issue.



Ive got an XPA5 and a UPA 7, I only put 1U between them, they dont seem to even get warm when I play a movie, BUT, my slim5-37 isnt enclosed, it is in a small closet and I dont have any sides on it. I have to go to the post office in Detroit this morning and pick up some blank panels and one of those temperature gauges I ordered from Coolerguys. Then I will bring the panel to work and machine out a slot for the temp gauges to fit in. I very curious to see what the temp actually makes it to when everything is running.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24263391
> 
> 
> Ive got an XPA5 and a UPA 7, I only put 1U between them, they dont seem to even get warm when I play a movie, BUT, my slim5-37 isnt enclosed, it is in a small closet and I dont have any sides on it. I have to go to the post office in Detroit this morning and pick up some blank panels and one of those temperature gauges I ordered from Coolerguys. Then I will bring the panel to work and machine out a slot for the temp gauges to fit in. I very curious to see what the temp actually makes it to when everything is running.


I am starting to question myself. Emotive might have told me 1u space. I just can't remember because that was so long ago.


----------



## dragonleepenn

Here is my rack,it's next door to the theater. I have a retractable screen above the rack with a panny ae4000u ,was in theater moved it out for the panny ae8000u. This room serves kinda like a lobby. Notice the monitor in the rack I thought it would look cool and serve to see was going on when calibrating the audio in the theater,it's a vizio 22" 1080p tv that set me back $139.00 plus tax. Love having it.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Looks really good! I have a TV in my av closet as well for the same reason. I don't want to turn on the projector just to change something or see something. Do you have a build thread or more pics?


----------



## dragonleepenn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24288960
> 
> 
> Looks really good! I have a TV in my av closet as well for the same reason. I don't want to turn on the projector just to change something or see something. Do you have a build thread or more pics?




Hi Pain,

No thread, here is a few pic's I've posted around the forum.


----------



## Slingblayde

Wow what a nice set up you have dragon.









What kind of components do you have filling your rack?


----------



## dragonleepenn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24291386
> 
> 
> Wow what a nice set up you have dragon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of components do you have filling your rack?




Hi Sling,

The rack has a sony BDP CX960 blu ray changer,ps3 slim, samsung dvr, denon 4311ci receiver and six crown lxs 1500 power amps. And a vizio 22" 1080p monitor /tv. Kept things simple .





PeterV


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dragonleepenn*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24291665
> 
> 
> Hi Sling,
> 
> The rack has a sony BDP CX960 blu ray changer,ps3 slim, samsung dvr, denon 4311ci receiver and six crown lxs 1500 power amps. And a vizio 22" 1080p monitor /tv. Kept things simple .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PeterV



What are the specs on the room and what speakers do you have? I see that you have a JVC projector. Looks really good.


----------



## dragonleepenn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24291723
> 
> 
> What are the specs on the room and what speakers do you have? I see that you have a JVC projector. Looks really good.[/quote
> 
> 
> The room is almost V shaped like a concert hall, but not quite! It's 13' at the front wall and 15' at the back wall if you will . By 24' long and there is no peek point at the front just the room narrows as you look forward from the rear, it really is still rectangular . Ceiling is 8' high and under the soffit the ceiling is 7'. The room shape was done as is because of beams that I didn't want too bother moving, the rest were built into some of the pillars I put together around them. The rooms ceiling height is perfect, any less thou, may have looked low. It doesn't!
> 
> The projector you see is a panasonic AE4000u, it does resemble a JVC. Now I have the panasonic AE8000u in the theater and moved the AE4000u too the lobby where I enjoy watching UFC fights and other sports on a seven foot silver screen . Just a stereo pair of paradigm ref studio 20's hooked up too zone 3 for this small lobby area (12'x12'). The theater has four 15" Rythmik drivers ( subs) or two dual subs model f25 at the front . And at the rear wall four 15" drivers ( two f15's subs and one dual 15" f25 sub all are Rythmik custom installs total of eight sub drivers in the room. All speakers front and rear are JTR's. LCR t12's sealed and two (pairs) rows of side surrounds t8's sealed, the back channels have a pair of t8's sealed .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PeterV


----------



## dragonleepenn

This is where I moved the AE4000u too.  

That's the door to the theater, also the bathroom door is seen.


----------



## Slingblayde

8 sub's. I guess Jerry Lee Lewis was singing about your place when he wrote Whole Lotta Shaking going on....


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dragonleepenn*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24291945
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/1980#post_24291723
> 
> 
> What are the specs on the room and what speakers do you have? I see that you have a JVC projector. Looks really good.[/quote
> 
> 
> The room is almost V shaped like a concert hall, but not quite! It's 13' at the front wall and 15' at the back wall if you will . By 24' long and there is no peek point at the front just the room narrows as you look forward from the rear, it really is still rectangular . Ceiling is 8' high and under the soffit the ceiling is 7'. The room shape was done as is because of beams that I didn't want too bother moving, the rest were built into some of the pillars I put together around them. The rooms ceiling height is perfect, any less thou, may have looked low. It doesn't!
> 
> The projector you see is a panasonic AE4000u, it does resemble a JVC. Now I have the panasonic AE8000u in the theater and moved the AE4000u too the lobby where I enjoy watching UFC fights and other sports on a seven foot silver screen . Just a stereo pair of paradigm ref studio 20's hooked up too zone 3 for this small lobby area (12'x12'). The theater has four 15" Rythmik drivers ( subs) or two dual subs model f25 at the front . And at the rear wall four 15" drivers ( two f15's subs and one dual 15" f25 sub all are Rythmik custom installs total of eight sub drivers in the room. All speakers front and rear are JTR's. LCR t12's sealed and two (pairs) rows of side surrounds t8's sealed, the back channels have a pair of t8's sealed .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PeterV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really impressive gear! T8's for surrounds! That's awesome! Any reason you didn't go with JTR subs?
Click to expand...


----------



## dragonleepenn

I really like how articulate the Rythmik subs are they really perform with clear defined bass notes in music,and great tight pounding low end. With movies, once the door is closed the room is tightly sealed it becomes part of the action on the screen. These subs perform at a hi-end level, most others can play loud but fall short in well define bass/low end . I've heard great things about JTR subs and don't doubt they are. When I switched to JTR speakers I'd already had switched to the rythmiks and was happy. I'd love to hear some JTR subs but no one around rochester ny has them that I know of . Have you heard them or just went on a blind faith purchase? By the way your theater is really cool , I was checking out your thread some really nice components. I need to check out roomie remote I see you have that in your setup. My remote is getting dated a t1000 by universal co. Wanna get a mini ipad for the theater, I've got a 2 & a air iPads luv-em. I see you have the seymour center stage 1.2 gain, same as mine which is 126" wide by 54" high 235.1 panny ae8000 projector. I must say that I am a huge fan of JTR 's they for me is what a home theater speaker is. Big huge sound is achieved,extremely immersive sound that pulls you in especially with action movies.






PeterV


----------



## Pain Infliction

Thanks! I bought the sub blind, but I did a lot of research first. Seems that there have never been a bad review on JTR subs and speakers except for the time it takes to get them and getting in touch with Jeff. I am very happy with the Seymour center stage as well. Roomie remote is great. Easy to setup and add things later.


----------



## dragonleepenn

How is the learning curve? Can you just read up on roomie and play, or is it a computer guy type setup? I'm not the most technical person with pc's , I mean I can get around ok, I've had home theater PC before and still do just not using one at this time. Is there a roomie forum that I can read up on how to use.

Thanks.







PeterV


----------



## Pain Infliction





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dragonleepenn*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24297232
> 
> 
> How is the learning curve? Can you just read up on roomie and play, or is it a computer guy type setup? I'm not the most technical person with pc's , I mean I can get around ok, I've had home theater PC before and still do just not using one at this time. Is there a roomie forum that I can read up on how to use.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PeterV



It is really easy. I have never looked up how to program roomie, but there is a forum and a thread here on AVS.


----------



## Slingblayde

My rack is SLOWLY filling up. I still have a long way to go to complete it but its getting there. Im not even going to show the back because it looks like a bomb went off in a wiring factory back there right now. I will definitely tidy it up when I get the rack full and position of all my components finalized and make some custom length cables for connecting everything.


----------



## BllDo

Is your HTPC rack-mounted or is that sitting on a shelf?


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BllDo*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24306011
> 
> 
> Is your HTPC rack-mounted or is that sitting on a shelf?


Its just sitting on a shelf for now. The case doesn't have any rack ear holes. I can cure that easy enough. But once I finalize my component placements I might either see if I can order a proper shelf with appropriate brushed faceplate. All the shelves I have are just cheapies from monoprice. They have a big lip on the front I might machine off at work. Or just use them somewhere else. I want the nice shelves with clamps and vent holes from MA.


----------



## JamesVG81

  


My new rack.


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesVG81*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24326926
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new rack.



Looks VERY nice!


----------



## JamesVG81

Thanks still have some work to do and at some point I want to get the face plates for everything. Some how after moving everything over my IR repeater died. Not the cheap monoprine one but the 80 dollar one. Guess I'll be ordering another monoprice one lol.


----------



## Slingblayde

What are the wide panels you have on either side of the rack to hide the screws? I have never seen those before.


----------



## Slingblayde

NVM I got drunk off my ass tonight, I can now see they dont hide the screws, but what are those panels?


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24331888
> 
> 
> NVM I got drunk off my ass tonight, I can now see they dont hide the screws, but what are those panels?



you might know this already, but just in case you don't, Middle Atlantic sells strips to cover the screws.


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24332496
> 
> 
> you might know this already, but just in case you don't, Middle Atlantic sells strips to cover the screws.


Ive seen the ones that cover just the screws, and I will be buying a pair of them for my rack, but I cant figure out what the wide thing is, it looks like its 3 inches wide or so. Is that a 22 inch wide rack with panels to adapt for 19 inch wide components?


----------



## JamesVG81

Yea its a wide body rack. I bought it at goodwill for 50 bucks lol. You can turn the rails one way for 22 inch or the other way for 19. I painted the rails black.


----------



## jbcain




----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbcain*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24335810



WHOA! Is that a 24 disk NAS?

Very nice!


----------



## jbcain

24bay hotswap supermicro server, dual 6 core 2.4ghz w/ 32gigs of ram.


----------



## Slingblayde

all bays populated? what kind and capacity drives?

Thats impressive, and is what i need.


----------



## jbcain

1/3rd populated w/ 3tb drives in flexraid-F. Half of that occupied. Sitting around 350 1:1 bluray rips, lots of flac music too. Win7 pro is the OS as the 2nd nic is hosting a subnet with 4 Xbox wmc extenders. Also host media browser server.


----------



## JamesVG81

Nice setup..they were sold out of those 24 bays on eBay when I had the money to pick one up. Had to settle on my rosewile 12 bay hot swap with an i5 750.


----------



## wkearney99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24305771
> 
> 
> I will definitely tidy it up when I get the rack full and position of all my components finalized and make some custom length cables for connecting everything.]



Ahhhahahahahhaaha, LOL! ROTLF! etc...


I'm sure I'm not alone is admitting I, too, once had plans like that. Yeah, we might _WANT_ to do that, but I'd venture most of the time that _finalizing_ never happens. At least not when the gear isn't all purchased and installed all at the same time. Life and creeping-featuritis have a way of preventing that from ever happening. There's always one more piece of gear, or new version of something, or an option left open for expansion...


That said, when I build out the theater later this year I _plan on_ attempting to make it look pretty and 'finalized'. But I would not make any bets on that.


----------



## Slingblayde

I know the back of my rack will never look like some of the pro stuff seen on here, but it will definitely be cleaned up from what it is now, it is a disaster now. I have all the wire, pants, banana plugs and heat shrink to make cables now, i just dont want to use it all up then move something and they are too short. It WILL be done...I SWEAR it!


----------



## Pain Infliction

Post a pic of the back of your rack Slingblayde. Let's see it.


----------



## Slingblayde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24340178
> 
> 
> Post a pic of the back of your rack Slingblayde. Let's see it.



I can, its a complete embarrassment right now tho, I will snap a glossy of it after work tomorrow and upload it, to much uproarious laughter no doubt.


----------



## JamesVG81

I have to buy some stock in monoprice before I start to try and make the cables look nice on the back of my rack lol.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slingblayde*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24340849
> 
> 
> I can, its a complete embarrassment right now tho, I will snap a glossy of it after work tomorrow and upload it, to much uproarious laughter no doubt.



I bet it is not as bad as some that I see on here. Ever seen BassThatHz rack?


----------



## grendelrt

Looking to buy my first rack for my home theater room and wanted opinions. I found this rack, http://www.omnimount.com/products/rack_systems_and_carts/rack_systems/re27/ and it looks like a pretty good starter rack with most of the stuff I need included already. I was planning on putting this as freestanding in this wall area,
 


and was looking for some opinions on how that would work out or if I am going in the wrong direction.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *grendelrt*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24349467
> 
> 
> Looking to buy my first rack for my home theater room and wanted opinions. I found this rack, http://www.omnimount.com/products/rack_systems_and_carts/rack_systems/re27/ and it looks like a pretty good starter rack with most of the stuff I need included already. I was planning on putting this as freestanding in this wall area,
> 
> 
> 
> and was looking for some opinions on how that would work out or if I am going in the wrong direction.



Well it looks like a rack is suppose to be there with all the wires there.










Try looking on craigslist for a rack. You can get them cheap on there. I bought my middle atlantic slim5 on there for dirt cheap. Then bought everything else from customavrack.com. If you like the rack you posted, then go get it. If I was you and were going with the rack you posted, I would get a taller one. 27U rack is not very big and will fill up quick with no space in between hot components. Plan for the future is what I like to do and I do not like to have to spend money again on the same object. That is my only regret with subs that I have owned over the years.


----------



## grendelrt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24350235
> 
> 
> Well it looks like a rack is suppose to be there with all the wires there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try looking on craigslist for a rack. You can get them cheap on there. I bought my middle atlantic slim5 on there for dirt cheap. Then bought everything else from customavrack.com. If you like the rack you posted, then go get it. If I was you and were going with the rack you posted, I would get a taller one. 27U rack is not very big and will fill up quick with no space in between hot components. Plan for the future is what I like to do and I do not like to have to spend money again on the same object. That is my only regret with subs that I have owned over the years.



Yeah I just moved into the new house, wires everywhere! That's why I need something to put some components in haha. I am actually going to have a separate stand for all my game systems and such, so this one is just to house my receiver, blu ray player, power center and butt kicker amp. I actually checked craigslist today and didnt find anything.


----------



## Pain Infliction

I was just messing with you.







Do you plan on any future amps for subs of speakers? If you think that you are set, then buy it.


----------



## grendelrt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24351628
> 
> 
> I was just messing with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you plan on any future amps for subs of speakers? If you think that you are set, then buy it.



At the moment I am not, I may add something in the future but I think I will have a little room. I checked the page on Staples this morning and got a 25 buck discount, so it was only 475 shipped which seems like a pretty good deal. Any accessories you guys would recommend?


----------



## Pain Infliction

Coolerguys temp controlled fans from coolerguys.com


rsh shelves and faceplates from customavrack.com


----------



## grendelrt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24351666
> 
> 
> Coolerguys temp controlled fans from coolerguys.com
> 
> 
> rsh shelves and faceplates from customavrack.com



I am really curious to see how the stock fans turn on and off on the re27, I doubt its temperature controlled and I wouldnt want them running all the time. Those shelves are going to be dangerous, spend more on shelves than the rack! Thanks!


----------



## Pain Infliction

You can get just the temperature module if your fans are 12vdc.


----------



## JonasHansen

The rack for my little home theater.


I have an Onkyo PR-SC5508 on top of the rack too, but not included in the first picture.
 


 


Would love to get rid of the Behringer amps (driving all my surround channels) and get Crown amps for them to complete the collection.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JonasHansen*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24353428
> 
> 
> The rack for my little home theater.
> 
> 
> I have an Onkyo PR-SC5508 on top of the rack too, but not included in the first picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to get rid of the Behringer amps (driving all my surround channels) and get Crown amps for them to complete the collection.



With all of those amps, is your theater really little? Do you have any pics and what all do you have?


----------



## weldon

Here's mine


----------



## mark_anderson_u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JonasHansen*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24353428
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to get rid of the Behringer amps (driving all my surround channels) and get Crown amps for them to complete the collection.



Bit off topic, but I'm just looking to getting crowns for my HT speakers. What model were you considering?


----------



## Tfleming675

  
 


Here is my rack and it's spot in the theatre. Still under construction. This is the Middle Atlantic SRSR -19


----------



## dhendriksen

Do you have access to that anywhere other than the front? If not, wiring it and keeping it cool will likely be a challenge... Particularly the wiring part.


Sent from my Droid MAXX via Tapatalk.


----------



## Tedd

That rack slides out and rotates. And one could use powered venting on the rack face (at the expense of storage space).


----------



## Tfleming675




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhendriksen*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24364695
> 
> 
> Do you have access to that anywhere other than the front? If not, wiring it and keeping it cool will likely be a challenge... Particularly the wiring part.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Droid MAXX via Tapatalk.



The SR in the name means it slides and rotates plus I have access from the rear under the stairs. I wanted to close it as much as possible for sound considerations. When done it will be painted black with black trim.


----------



## Andrew911tt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbcain*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24335911
> 
> 
> 1/3rd populated w/ 3tb drives in flexraid-F. Half of that occupied. Sitting around 350 1:1 bluray rips, lots of flac music too. Win7 pro is the OS as the 2nd nic is hosting a subnet with 4 Xbox wmc extenders. Also host media browser server.



How do you play the 1:1 bluray rips. Are the formats .iso


----------



## jbcain

I use media browser and mpc-hc for playback. I use the .mkv container unless its 3d, then I usually use .iso because its mountable


----------



## robertintemple




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wkearney99*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2010#post_24336999
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhahahahahhaaha, LOL! ROTLF! etc...
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm not alone is admitting I, too, once had plans like that. Yeah, we might *WANT* to do that, but I'd venture most of the time that *finalizing* never happens. At least not when the gear isn't all purchased and installed all at the same time. Life and creeping-featuritis have a way of preventing that from ever happening. There's always one more piece of gear, or new version of something, or an option left open for expansion...
> 
> 
> That said, when I build out the theater later this year I *plan on* attempting to make it look pretty and 'finalized'. But I would not make any bets on that.


as a professional in the AV field I've learned that keep it neat as you go along because that "finalizing" never happens.  I once got stuck with a job that someone else abandoned and the budget was gone.  Instead of pulling all the ugly spaghetti and starting from scratch I "finished" ie, got er done.  it was ugly.  I'm ashamed to have been a part of that even though it works (and it rock solid, strangely enough).  I did learn my lesson though.  "finalizing" never comes.  Make it neat as you go or live with the ugly mess you created.   I'd much rather fall behind on a work of art than finish a mess early.


----------



## JonasHansen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24354220
> 
> 
> With all of those amps, is your theater really little? Do you have any pics and what all do you have?


Unfortunately yes... It's 21x11 so I would still define it as small. I probably could have settled for less amps, but now I have the ability to use my system in any room size in the future


----------



## mercury

made this a few years back. worked great!!


----------



## scotsman8

what does everyone use for in the open rack? I'm planning on having all my equipment in the back right of my room.


----------



## grendelrt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24351761
> 
> 
> You can get just the temperature module if your fans are 12vdc.



I got my rack and everything installed, the stock fans in the re27 were Maxair 12038B1HC x 2. They are 120MMx38MM 120ac fans, just for future reference if anyone is searching. They are super friggin loud stock though, I rewired them to run in series and they are dead silent now. Only problem is there is no temp sensor to turn them on or off. I guess I could replace them with 12v fans and get a controller, but that seems like a little bit of a waste. Any advice otherwise? I actually looked to see if my amp had an old school ac in on it so I could run them through that but it doesnt haha. If I do convert to 12v, any recommendations on a 120x38 fan to use?


----------



## Pain Infliction

There is a way around it and that is to use a relay with the temp control module but that would be not the best way. Go to coolerguys.com and they have specs for all of their fans. The fans that come with the kit are medium speed and have moderate sound but you can get the low speed ones that are almost dead silent.


----------



## rfbrang

Anyone have an issue with a PS4 RSH shelf faceplate? We put together our first RSH shelf last night, and the bottom of the hole is 2-3mm too high for the PS4 to clear, even with the provided foam/rubber feet added. I am certain the faceplate is attached to the sides correctly, and I put the shelf within the sides elbows. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfbrang*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24406665
> 
> 
> Anyone have an issue with a PS4 RSH shelf faceplate? We put together our first RSH shelf last night, and the bottom of the hole is 2-3mm too high for the PS4 to clear, even with the provided foam/rubber feet added. I am certain the faceplate is attached to the sides correctly, and I put the shelf within the sides elbows. Anyone else experience this?



I don't own a ps4 (and hence not the ps4 faceplate), but I believe on my Wii one, they included rubber feet to raise it up since the hole could not be lower than they put it. The feet raise it up high enough to fit in the hole correctly. Make sure you didn't get any of these feet. If course, their measurements could have been off (weird since they normally require a physical specimen to create the template off of)


----------



## rfbrang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sir Meili*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24406693
> 
> 
> I don't own a ps4 (and hence not the ps4 faceplate), but I believe on my Wii one, they included rubber feet to raise it up since the hole could not be lower than they put it. The feet raise it up high enough to fit in the hole correctly. Make sure you didn't get any of these feet. If course, their measurements could have been off (weird since they normally require a physical specimen to create the template off of)



The sticky foam/rubber feet are applied. I ordered through customavrack.com, so I did not send in my PS4 for measurements... I will probably just stick some rubber washers under the provided foam/rubber feet to fix my issue, but I am left wondering if it is one time quality control issure or if I should give them feedback. I tried to sign up for an account to deal with them directly(I ordered through customavrack.com), but apparently I was signing up for a vendor account. I called the website I got it from and they thought of the same solution as I did, I just want awareness if this is a "working as designed" issue.


----------



## Sir Meili




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfbrang*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2040#post_24406774
> 
> 
> The sticky foam/rubber feet are applied. I ordered through customavrack.com, so I did not send in my PS4 for measurements... I will probably just stick some rubber washers under the provided foam/rubber feet to fix my issue, but I am left wondering if it is one time quality control issure or if I should give them feedback. I tried to sign up for an account to deal with them directly(I ordered through customavrack.com), but apparently I was signing up for a vendor account. I called the website I got it from and they thought of the same solution as I did, I just want awareness if this is a "working as designed" issue.



I meant the first time they make a template they use a physical machine to take measurements (They will use user taken measurements, but i don't believe the MA will keep those on file). So someone else sent one in (or Sony Sent them one, or someone who works there has one). So the template should have matched. You might be able to email MA directly and ask them (middleatlantic.com). Of course as you said, there is a simple fix, but if there is an issue with the template, at least they would know so they could potentially mark the template for adjustments.


----------



## rfbrang

Thanks. It does not appear they have measurements for either "Sony Playstation 4" or "Sony PS4" when I check their tool, so I sent them an email documenting my experience. I can't believe I am the first one getting this faceplate, this has been out since November...


----------



## Newshoundaussie


Here are pictures of my homemade maple rack I built with some stolen ideas from this thread, Thanks guys! It contains a cable box, ultimate remote logitech, Oppo 103D, Mac TV. 2 power surge protectors from Monster, Onkyo 818, Tray for Mac Book on blum self closing sliders, Emotiva XPA5 Gen2, XPA2 Gen2 and my wifes Marrantz in the bottom to show my age. I will try and get some shots of the back later. 







 

Thanks Again everyone, it has been a great resource.


----------



## Sir Meili

@Newshoundaussie, I like the pull out shelf for the laptop there. I wish I had a way to do something similar for my printer (Printer/Scanner/Copier). I currently have it facing into the closet because there is no way to make the faceplate and have it pull out for scanning stuff. I'm pretty much locked into the MA faceplates, so it being in the closet will just have to suffice. I really just wanted to say...... great job! It looks awesome


----------



## Newshoundaussie






 

Thanks for the comments. Here are pictures of the back. Not a Professional setup, but as clean as I could make it . It is in a small enclosed room.


----------



## Sir Meili

@Newshoundaussie, that is still really nice from the back. Nice cable management. I like the use of the electrical boxes for small patch plates.


----------



## hitman6079

Built this last weekend for about $100. Still need to fill nail holes and apply paint, pretty happy how it turned out though.


----------



## Newshoundaussie


Looks great get it filled and up and running!


----------



## hitman6079

Thanks!


----------



## Slingblayde

Newshoundaussie, very nice setup and nice neat cable management!

And yay for a fellow Southwestern Ontario AVS member.


----------



## Tedd

Just found some old photos of my first equipment rack (DIY), going way back to Sony S7000 days....


Smoked tempered glass shelves with wood frames.

firstrack.jpg 244k .jpg file


----------



## hitman6079

I could use some opinions on my AV rack shelves. The shelf deminisions are 24 x 15.5. currently and I bought originally 12in brackets for the supports. The problem I'm running into is when I extend the shelf through the wall it's about two inches short from covering the end of the 12in brackets. I've found 9in brackets at HD and they seem to work fine and appear more than capable of holding my equipment. Guess my question is should I go with the longer brackets and cut new shelves or would the smaller supports work? I quickly measured my Denon receiver and the depth is about 15 inches.


----------



## TMcG

Both will hold the weight. It is an aesthetic choice. The mass will still be centered over the bracket with either length.


----------



## hitman6079

Thanks for the comments.


----------



## Jonny5nz

The shorter one looks a lot more tidy. I would go with that.


----------



## olyteddy

The longer one gives you somewhere to anchor cables.


----------



## towercontrol

Hey All. Its been way to long since I've been on here. So being I'm 'just finishing up my latest project, I thought I'd share it with you all! My7 newly built office. with Rack access. As usual its the mainframe to the home. But I want ti do some upgrades this year to thin out some of the "lesser" equipment. I would like to upgrade to an Oppo player, but not sure which one yet. Things like that. sorry if punctuation is off, brand new baby is in one arm!


I tried to keep it as clean as I could in the back. Thoughts???

Cheers!


----------



## Newshoundaussie


Very nice job


----------



## Newshoundaussie


Just finished setup for 9.2  added wide fronts. One picture of it lit other new patch box added.  



 

up.


----------



## mr kilderkin

First off, thanks to everyone who has posted their racks. I've been following this thread since the early days and shortly after I saw some of the awesome racks I knew I had to get one.


After a few months of watching craigslist like a hawk, I found a Middle Atlantic WR-44-42 for $100. This thing was huge! Almost 7.5' tall and over 3.5' deep, no way it would fit in my little 3 bedroom house. I gave the rack to my buddy over at Dirt Designs and he hacked it up to fit in the coat closet in my living room. Initially I wanted to utilize some of the space behind my furnace and frame out an area for it with some smoked glass......... but the closet was oh so much easier and it is working great. Plus when the solid wood door is shut, it is silent.


Here are some pictures before and after. Sorry for the quality of the shots, they were never intended for much more than picture messages


----------



## towercontrol

Hey, we were talking cooling fans. these are the ones I'm using that I made up. The row of fans with the white wire and tape is not being used currently. Had one come apart and one stopped working. But they are hooked to the two Pci card fans that I use side by side for thin hard to reach places. I use them flat on the top of the equipment grill to pull the air up into them and out the fronts of the fans. Works great! The longer bank works great, moves a lot of air at once. I use them at the front or back vertically along the width of the unit. (depending on where I need the air exhausted.) I have used both on one unit before. 7 at the front 6 at the back. That moves air. But to much noise for the value of effectiveness. I bought the fans at a surplus store, so they were really cheap and once together do an amazing job. Granted a person may not need that many even 3 would move air over that surface. But at the time I built them I had alot of heat building in a small area. two AVR's running around 50C each on average. 100c+ between two units was mush to hot for my liking, so thats why I built so many. Now with a vented shelf from Mid Atl. its brought the heat down considerably. PS: all 12 Volt fans.


----------



## mr kilderkin

Nice job with the fans, thanks for sharing. I may implement something similar!


----------



## towercontrol

Thanks, I did reinstall the bank of 7 today, but I added the sticky backed Foam door seal tape around the outside edges, gives it a tighter fit and quieter too. Just an fyi to try.


----------



## Larry M

Is a Mid Atlantic WRK-44-27 a good rack for HT use? It's way more spaces than I need right now, but I could see myself filling a lot of it over time


----------



## thxonly


looks awesome


----------



## JSKMDWK

Better to have the space and not need it, than to need the space and not have it.


----------



## Pain Infliction




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry M*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2000_100#post_24608351
> 
> 
> Is a Mid Atlantic WRK-44-27 a good rack for HT use? It's way more spaces than I need right now, but I could see myself filling a lot of it over time



Its good to have the extra space. I ran out of space on my rack.


----------



## YitEarp


Its great to have a rack at all. Over here in the uk middle atlantic would be twice the price. Im looking at the sanus rack which doesn't seem to be too costly compared to the former. But I am debating if I actually need a rack now. Two sheets of mdf and a few 24u rack rails might see me good.


----------



## Larry M

So the WRK line is a good line to have correct?


Price not being a factor, I am buying used pretty inexpensively


----------



## jbernardk




 



 



 

Here's my new rack.  I had a cabinet maker build it out of 3/4" plywood.  Painted it black.  I need to make the wires in the back a little neater.


----------



## RckReadytj


Heres my rack. Contains everything for theater, security cameras, whole house lighting control, and URC's total control system for whole house audio/video integration. Enjoy


----------



## Newshoundaussie


Wow!! nice setup.


----------



## JSKMDWK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry M*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2070#post_24609515
> 
> 
> So the WRK line is a good line to have correct?
> 
> 
> Price not being a factor, I am buying used pretty inexpensively



Any of the Middle Atlantic racks should work great. Their website states -- The WRK series was designed with a wider footprint for mounting equipment with thicker cable bundles that would be difficult to fit in a basic rack. It’s ideal for multi-bay installations, or to insure more cooling airflow. The WRK series also offers seismic certification and open or removable sides.


As long as you are not trying to fit this into a tight space you should be fine.


----------



## towercontrol

Great set up! I'm along the lines of the same idea. Mainframe for the house. Looks good!


----------



## towercontrol

Ya, thats perfectly good! Many guys will build their own too. Works well for them cause they can make it where they need to, so its custom fit. Where as a rack you are stuck with certain sizes. I'm pro rack, but it don't matter really. If you have the budget to include one great if you need to make one great too!

Hell, mine is an ex-RCMP Surveillance/ video rack. make it yours by being happy with what you build!


----------



## Larry M

Anyone want to take an educated guess on what model this server rack is? It is an APC 42U from the listing. I think it might be a 40+ deep rack which would suck. I was hoping it was a 3810
http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=AR3810&tab=models 

 

 

 


I'd much rather an MA rack, but nothing available locally that fits my needs


How are the APC racks? I assume they'll take MA faceplates and accessories just like an MA 19" rack would?


----------



## Neurorad

The fans are usually very loud in server racks. You would need to replace them, or not use them.


40" deep is huge.


Can you go look at it?


----------



## Larry M




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2070#post_24620230
> 
> 
> The fans are usually very loud in server racks. You would need to replace them, or not use them.
> 
> 
> 40" deep is huge.
> 
> 
> Can you go look at it?



If it is 40" deep, I wouldn't be interested. I have to call the listing and see what I'm looking at


----------



## Sir Meili

40" is super deep. I think I'm currently at 28" (due to having to hold a development server I use for work and doubles as local storage for TVs/Movies). The only benefit I can see is that you get the back of the rack to hold equipment you don't really need/want to see from the front. I, for instance, keep a printer/scanner/copier on the back of my rack for the family to use. No reason it needs to be facing the living room. I also have shelves for the HDMI splitter, roku, home automation devices, cable box, and switches.


If you do opt for the 40", make sure the sides are removable so that you can manage wires from the sides as well, and check to see if you can possibly either get more vertical rack rails for it (some ht equipment will required back rails, but won't go the 40") or that you can get rails that are deep enough. I am at 28" because that is the max that my HT APC battery backup's rails will go (And that is stretching it).


Also, make sure you have space for it to be moved around. I was going to go for a 40", but it would have taken up a whole side of my closet where I keep the rack. they are huge and very hard to move around in tight spaces, My 28" rack is a bear to move around in the 6' x 6' closet, even on casters. Granted, that is the room that holds the Air handler for my A/C (2'x2') and there are also wire shelves on some of the walls.


----------



## sam9s




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/960#post_19577694
> 
> 
> 
> That was only one reason, it does keep thing neat and un-cluttered .
> 
> 
> 
> If you do not have a patch panel how do you know what wire is what. My cables were NOT terminated on the wall. There is no wall plate. So I terminated all the speaker wire, sub connections, network connections and TV cables on the patch panel. Make it easy to know what each cable is. And changes are easy to make.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus you picked my rack photo.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a more recent photo of th patch panel. More terminations.



But patch panal is only for network cables... right, how are you patch paneling spk cables and TV cables and others ..???? Is there a universal patch panal for all. If yes can you point me in that direction ......


----------



## Neurorad

One can 'patch' any type of cable, not just network.


RG6 patch panel:










Keystone patch panels can accept a variety of connectors/cables.

 

 


Most people don't patch speaker cables, but I have. I mounted a row of terminal blocks onto a blank plate.

 


Edit - for the record, I need a more mobile solution than the terminal blocks, one that can be easily connected and disconnected. I'll be using Neutrik SpeakOns in the new rack.

 

 

 

 


I'll probably use a dedicated SpeakOn rack plate, populated with female SpeakOn connectors, but I think this modular Middle Atlantic offering is slick.


----------



## TheAstronaut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neurorad*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24633393
> 
> 
> One can 'patch' any type of cable, not just network.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - for the record, I need a more mobile solution than the terminal blocks, one that can be easily connected and disconnected. I'll be using Neutrik SpeakOns in the new rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably use a dedicated SpeakOn rack plate, populated with female SpeakOn connectors, but I think this modular Middle Atlantic offering is slick.



SpeakOns are great! I'm using them in a UCP frame like the bottom picture for my portable outdoor rack. I found the UCP plates to be a little cramped though, so you might want to consider using a 1U panel like in your first picture. If you check the link in my sig you can see some good pictures of the clearances between each jack along with some details on my build. For anyone that is looking for a modular solution that can be plugged/unplugged often, Speakons are worth checking out.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sam9s*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24633355
> 
> 
> But patch panal is only for network cables... right, how are you patch paneling spk cables and TV cables and others ..???? Is there a universal patch panal for all. If yes can you point me in that direction ......



The patch panel is a standard network patch panel with rectangle holes that keystone type network jacks snap into. In addition to rj45 type jacks there are also inserts for F-type barrel connectors, banana jacks, RCA phone jacks and more. Below is an image if several keystone type inserts that fit the patch panel . Back row, left to right, blank insert, underpopulated pre-drilled , RCA phone jack, F-type connector. Front row banana jack (speaker wire), Cat5e network jack.


----------



## dhendriksen

I ran everything through a patch panel. That's a lot of work! The first picture was taken in December when I first started, the last picture taken yesterday. I'm 95% finished now, but it took 5 months to find the motivation to start working on it again. I used the OnQ Legrand speaker wire keystones. They're kind of hard to find, and I have about 30 extra in black. If anyone wants them shoot me a PM.




















Sent from my Droid MAXX via Tapatalk.


----------



## Larry M

So I finally found a rack. Just picked up an MRK-4426 with a rear door, sides and caster kit.


The only problem with it is that it is a little scuffed up, does Middle Atlantic sell touch up paint?


----------



## TMcG

Middle Atlantic WRINKLE paint: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=421209&gclid=CJG2v469k74CFVEOOgod3xQASg&Q=&is=REG&A=details


----------



## Larry M




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24682758
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic WRINKLE paint: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=421209&gclid=CJG2v469k74CFVEOOgod3xQASg&Q=&is=REG&A=details



Does it blend in well? Is it a spray?


It has quite a few scuffs and a few that are several inches long. Will this work?


----------



## TMcG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry M*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24682898
> 
> 
> Does it blend in well? Is it a spray?
> 
> 
> It has quite a few scuffs and a few that are several inches long. Will this work?



It's a small can of touch-up paint, similar to what you would buy for automobiles. You may have to build up a couple of coats depending on the scratch depth. If you are examining things under a bright light and close examination, you will obviously still be able to see them. But under normal circumstances you will be hard-pressed to see anything.


----------



## blazar

Look at redco's website where there are custom patch panels with neutrik's or whatever you want in any combination with labels.


There are also vented rack cover panels to simply hide unsightly wiring instead of wrapping it all up like braiding a girl's head.


Speakons +1!


----------



## danrudy

Newbie question about Rack systems.

AM building my first home theater in new house construction.

Dimensions are 16 wide by 20 deep dedicated room. 10ft ceilings.


In that room I had a small "closet" niche made that is 34 inches wide x 24 inches deep and 10ft high.


I had planned to put my components in there and am starting to collect the components as I wait for PJ and screen delivery (JVC x500R/rs49)

My planned components although not all settled will be

An AV receiver (probably Denon x4000)

BluRay player (probably oppo)

Darbee (probable)

xbox?(already own)

two 1000W amps for buttkickers (already own)

TBD


Anyways, started to look for racks for the components and see options as Sanus CFr2136, AVRacks (Avtraks) etc.

A. am looking for suggestions that will fit that space....I do like the options that pull out (avtrak) or are on coasters

B. Is there an advantage/disadvantage of doing a cabinet approach (like sanus) vs an open non cabinet system like avrak)

I understand that i will need to be cooling off the components so my instinct is that an open non enclosed system will dissipate heat more but allow for more dust. On the other hand, figure that an enclosed system that has a fan on the top to suck up the heat (perhaps with one of those temp sensitive coolerguys fans) and some vents will do a fine job as well. The advantage there may be better dust control and a quieter rack .(?) Is having a plexiglass door advantageous?


Anyways, I would appreciate enclosed vs unenclosed guidance. I understand that my closet space is only 24 inches deep. However, being 34 inches wide will allow for some heat to escape on the sides and upwards into the 10 ft niche. I did see some other systems that seemed to be 26 inches deep. I feel that is too much as it will stick out too far into the room.


Thanks in advance...I will be posting this as a new thread as well in case there are not many visitors here. I apologize for the redundancy. (also, am open to component suggestions)


----------



## ellisr63




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danrudy*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24734334
> 
> 
> Newbie question about Rack systems.
> 
> AM building my first home theater in new house construction.
> 
> Dimensions are 16 wide by 20 deep dedicated room. 10ft ceilings.
> 
> 
> In that room I had a small "closet" niche made that is 34 inches wide x 24 inches deep and 10ft high.
> 
> 
> I had planned to put my components in there and am starting to collect the components as I wait for PJ and screen delivery (JVC x500R/rs49)
> 
> My planned components although not all settled will be
> 
> An AV receiver (probably Denon x4000)
> 
> BluRay player (probably oppo)
> 
> Darbee (probable)
> 
> xbox?(already own)
> 
> two 1000W amps for buttkickers (already own)
> 
> TBD
> 
> 
> Anyways, started to look for racks for the components and see options as Sanus CFr2136, AVRacks (Avtraks) etc.
> 
> A. am looking for suggestions that will fit that space....I do like the options that pull out (avtrak) or are on coasters
> 
> B. Is there an advantage/disadvantage of doing a cabinet approach (like sanus) vs an open non cabinet system like avrak)
> 
> I understand that i will need to be cooling off the components so my instinct is that an open non enclosed system will dissipate heat more but allow for more dust. On the other hand, figure that an enclosed system that has a fan on the top to suck up the heat (perhaps with one of those temp sensitive coolerguys fans) and some vents will do a fine job as well. The advantage there may be better dust control and a quieter rack .(?) Is having a plexiglass door advantageous?
> 
> 
> Anyways, I would appreciate enclosed vs unenclosed guidance. I understand that my closet space is only 24 inches deep. However, being 34 inches wide will allow for some heat to escape on the sides and upwards into the 10 ft niche. I did see some other systems that seemed to be 26 inches deep. I feel that is too much as it will stick out too far into the room.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance...I will be posting this as a new thread as well in case there are not many visitors here. I apologize for the redundancy. (also, am open to component suggestions)


If you have any Surplus Electronics stores around you... They usually have nice server racks with shelves for under $200 that look just like the expensive metal racks you see. Sometimes they even have cooling fans and doors. I picked one up a while back for $100 without doors or fans.


If you get one without cooling fans you can retro fit a bathroom fan into your closet with a temp sensor.


----------



## DKKustomsInc




 



 



 



 



 

Made to look like hatch cover from a ship open from the center. Custom made slide mechanism. All AV equipment for entire home.


----------



## Pain Infliction

^^^. That looks awesome!


----------



## DKKustomsInc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pain Infliction*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24782515
> 
> 
> ^^^. That looks awesome!


Thanks!!


----------



## 1080eyes

One of coolest ideas in this forum!!


----------



## wraunch

Very cool idea with great design quality.


----------



## DKKustomsInc

Thanks it did turn out nice. Behind it was an unused storage closet we added a fan on a thermal switch and made all the units accessible from the back for easy ungraded and wiring access. The picture in my avatar is the main TV room.


----------



## williams97

In setting up my new MA 5-37 rack, I found that my new Emotiva UMC 200 pre-pro is 1.5 rack units. I also found that the mounting holes are in groups of 3 with less space between each group instead of being evenly spaced along the rack rail. So in mounting the I end up with 1/2 unit either on top or bottom of the unit which looks unsightly. My temporary work abound is to split the space half on the top and half on the bottom but because the rack holes are not evenly spaced, I can only lineup one mounting screw on each side. Anybody else with this oddly spaced component and possible solutions.


----------



## DKKustomsInc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williams97*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24794323
> 
> 
> In setting up my new MA 5-37 rack, I found that my new Emotiva UMC 200 pre-pro is 1.5 rack units. I also found that the mounting holes are in groups of 3 with less space between each group instead of being evenly spaced along the rack rail. So in mounting the I end up with 1/2 unit either on top or bottom of the unit which looks unsightly. My temporary work abound is to split the space half on the top and half on the bottom but because the rack holes are not evenly spaced, I can only lineup one mounting screw on each side. Anybody else with this oddly spaced component and possible solutions.


They make blank filler plates to take up the remaining space.


----------



## JVoth

  

Here is mine underneath my screen. I have a removable panel that covers it.


Equipment:

Oppo BDP-93

2U Drawer (really handy)

Blank panels that hide a rear mounted shelf that contains IRule, ISY for lighting and network switch.

Sherbourn PT-7030 Preamp

Decora panel with 2 HDMI inputs for cameras Playstation, etc.

Blank panel hiding rear mounted shelf that contains my Time Warner Cable box

Sherbourn Power Amp


----------



## Cthanatos

Going to be building our first house soon with a dedicated HT space. I'd like to put a server rack in, and have an access door from the theater, with the rack actually sitting in a closet/media storage room. What soundproofing advice would you give for basically having a hole into another room? Will I have to treat that room as heavily? What about weather stripping on the access port?


----------



## JVoth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cthanatos*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24798449
> 
> 
> Going to be building our first house soon with a dedicated HT space. I'd like to put a server rack in, and have an access door from the theater, with the rack actually sitting in a closet/media storage room. What soundproofing advice would you give for basically having a hole into another room? Will I have to treat that room as heavily? What about weather stripping on the access port?


The best thing to do is start a build thread so we don't get off track here in this thread. We'd love to see what you've come up with as far as your plans. You'll get tons of advice from some industry veterans on everything from soundproofing to demolition tips.


----------



## OJ Bartley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DKKustomsInc*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24782227



I would never close those doors! The beautiful glow is a shame to hide away.







But the doors do look fantastic.


----------



## Cthanatos


Thanks JVoth! I'm not quite ready to start a build thread, I just wondered if anybody else had a similar issue. I'm gonna get the ultimate HT course offered here this weekend, because I'm basically going to have to walk our Contractor through the whole process. The places here that do theaters, I talked with one of their contractors, and he wanted to just use MLV for sound isolation, and blown cellulose elsewhere. I said, thanks but I'll figure it out.


----------



## DKKustomsInc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OJ Bartley*  /t/788074/show-me-your-rack/2100#post_24800337
> 
> 
> I would never close those doors! The beautiful glow is a shame to hide away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the doors do look fantastic.


I know but sometimes you don't want everyone seeing everything you have.


----------



## Nighthawk26

No THAT is slick. Where was this post 6 months ago for me! Well done.


----------



## DKKustomsInc


Thanks Nighthawk I would have loved to make ya one.


----------



## Larry M

Anyone have experience racking a Silverstone GD08 HTPC?


I see the rack ears for my case are http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=346 


According to Silverstone, "The main function of the RA02 is to aid in securing your SilverStone desktop products to a rack storage, please DO NOT make RA02 as the sole supporting structure for the whole case, you should still use a rackmount tray or sliding rail to help with weight support"


Does anyone know exactly which MA shelf I should be using?


----------



## TMcG

Chassis support brackets: http://www.middleatlantic.com/products/accessories/rackshelves/chassis-support-brackets.aspx


----------



## nathanddrews

DKKustomsInc said:


> 


----------



## Larry M

TMcG said:


> Chassis support brackets: http://www.middleatlantic.com/products/accessories/rackshelves/chassis-support-brackets.aspx


That's awesome!
Thank You


----------



## Bryceo

crap quality I no


Sent from my iPhone 5


----------



## mpjmeyer

I've posted this question in other threads so I apologize but I am looking for a media rack for my theater and am somewhat of a newbie here and found a Middle Atlantic MRK-4426-AV for only $190. Is this a good home theater rack??


----------



## Larry M

mpjmeyer said:


> I've posted this question in other threads so I apologize but I am looking for a media rack for my theater and am somewhat of a newbie here and found a Middle Atlantic MRK-4426-AV for only $190. Is this a good home theater rack??


It's a great rack and a good price
It's a bit tall, but good for growth. I have the exact same model.

If it is truly an "AV" model, buy it as soon as you can! That is a complete steal. The accessories alone are worth much much more that $190


----------



## memmo

Hey folks,

Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.

I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.

The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.

Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.

My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?

I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear.


----------



## DKKustomsInc

nathanddrews said:


> http://youtu.be/hoS1MCF8AeI


Has that effect on people


----------



## markrubin

memmo said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.
> 
> I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.
> 
> The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.
> 
> Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.
> 
> My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?
> 
> I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear



this may be a bit more work but consider:

remove the top panel of the MA rack and have a large diameter hole cut in the location of the vent

I had a similar issue with the top of the SLIM 5 not being vented (I think newer versions are vented): I was able to punch a series of 3 inch holes in the top, with the rack in place, with a portable punch


----------



## wraunch

I have a MA ERK-4020 rack. I am trying to figure out if I can mount a patch panel to it. My rack faces into my theater and I just hooked up my 24 port switch that I would like to rack mount right under the patch panel but I just realized I can only mount things to the front of the rack currently. Is there a way to add a rear mounting rail? Can I just mount them to the front and have them facing the rear of the rack and cover them with blank plates on the theater side.


----------



## Neurorad

wraunch said:


> I have a MA ERK-4020 rack. I am trying to figure out if I can mount a patch panel to it. My rack faces into my theater and I just hooked up my 24 port switch that I would like to rack mount right under the patch panel but I just realized I can only mount things to the front of the rack currently. Is there a way to add a rear mounting rail? Can I just mount them to the front and have them facing the rear of the rack and cover them with blank plates on the theater side.


Looks like MA offers a rear rack rail kit for the ERK. 

Might be cheaper to buy rackrail recessor brackets, and mount to the front.


----------



## wraunch

Thanks. I am a complete N00B when it comes to racks so I want to do it right. Also. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the side of the rack to run the wires through so I can put a rear door on the rack possibly. Do they sell an insert that I could put into the hole to give it a finished grommet like finish?


----------



## wraunch

Also where is the best place to buy plates and such for the money? I know I need rack ears for my Netgear switch and I'm sure I'll need some cable management rails to clean things up.


----------



## NickTheGreat

wraunch said:


> Also where is the best place to buy plates and such for the money? I know I need rack ears for my Netgear switch and I'm sure I'll need some cable management rails to clean things up.


I have some of the Monoprice blanks and their keystones, and have been happy with them.

My rack has holes in the back too, and I'm still struggling with the best way to manage it all!


----------



## Neurorad

If you want to using lacing bars, you're going to need rear rails. 

That's a 20 inch deep rack? Pretty shallow.


----------



## Nighthawk26

What I personally found was that I was worried almost for nothing when it came to concerns about heat. My same size rack is essentially closed on both sides and the top as it sits in a nook in the wall that is open at the back to a room about 3x7 or so (open ceiling not finished). I'm running a full chasis HTPC, AVR, 3 large 1000 watt monoblocks and the room beyond handles the heat. I am also open at the front into the room mind you. My rack is essentially FULL. I can shoot you some pics, but the equipment room isn't nearly as finished as yours unfortunately. I sent you a few emails BTW. Still could use some serious help... this HTPC is evidently really set up well from Assassins, but I'm still struggling with it none the less. Nothing worse than being frustrated with your gear.




memmo said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.
> 
> I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.
> 
> The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.
> 
> Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.
> 
> My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?
> 
> I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear.


----------



## codylv

Here's my rack  


















Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## kevin g.

codylv said:


> Here's my rack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Sorry for the O/T...I see you have ooma connected. I have one due in tomorrow. What is your experience? Good/ bad /ugly?


----------



## codylv

kevin g. said:


> Sorry for the O/T...I see you have ooma connected. I have one due in tomorrow. What is your experience? Good/ bad /ugly?


I love the Ooma phone system, lots of options, just make sure you look at every setting, and look at settings on the device itself via the Web UI. I actual pay for the premium service, never had an issue, very reliable.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## evanderburg

Here is my rack. My amplifiers are on the other side of the wall so the only thing showing is the equipment I need to get to on a regular basis.


----------



## wraunch

Neurorad said:


> If you want to using lacing bars, you're going to need rear rails.
> 
> That's a 20 inch deep rack? Pretty shallow.


Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?


----------



## Larry M

wraunch said:


> Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?


I'd use something less intense, something like a Drexel with a cutoff wheel


----------



## TMcG

wraunch said:


> Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?


A reciprocating saw works perfectly. The cut is not as nice as with a miter saw, but it doesn't have to be.


----------



## wkearney99

You'd be better off with a hacksaw, dremel or a cut-off wheel in a chop saw. Even a jig saw would be 'less worse' than using a reciprocating saw (aka Destroyz-all). Those damned things skip and wreck things way too easily. Great for hacking stuff apart but terrible for finish work.

As for cutting something down, it would depend on how the pieces are fit together. Most of the MA racks I've seen were welded. Not sure there's a straightforward way to reduce the height of one if that's the situation. I've seen other racks that were just bolted together. But some still had ends machined or fabricated in such a way as to not be easily reduced in height. Others would've been a simple matter of just lopping off some length and drilling new holes, perhaps tapping a few threads (*with* using cutting oil, of course).


----------



## TMcG

You just need more Sawzall practice, Bill!


----------



## Tedd

My tool of choice for cutting down (three thus far) racks, has been a four inch angle grinder.


----------



## wraunch

My dad had a steel cutting chop saw we used. That thing cut it clean and nice! Now I just have to figure out how to lay this all out. Should my AVR be at the top so it has the most room to breath? My other components for now will be a DTV Genie DVR, and a Xbox One.


----------



## NicksHitachi

Rack convention is to put the hottest components on the top but that means the amps are up top and the things you need to access are on the bottom(BR player, AVR, etc). 

Because of this I put the amps on the bottom and BR player, AVR, cable boxes etc up top. I actively cool my rack so its less of an issue though.


----------



## TMcG

I like to put equipment that needs interaction (i.e. looking at displays, settings, loading media, etc.) at or around eye level. So by that standard the Bluray player gets good positioning, followed by the gaming system and AVR, in that order.


----------



## Sir Meili

I, like TMcG, placed my according to access. In my case, it was more child access. My Battery backup was moved from the bottom to the top (I hate that it didn't have a child lock), then going down it's receiver, htpc, xbox, playstation, wii U, then 3 drawers. That way the kids can't mess with the stuff I don't want them messing with (mainly the receiver, battery backup/power conditioner and htpc)


----------



## olyteddy

Sir Meili said:


> I, like TMcG, placed my according to access. In my case, it was more child access. My Battery backup was moved from the bottom to the top (I hate that it didn't have a child lock), then going down it's receiver, htpc, xbox, playstation, wii U, then 3 drawers. That way the kids can't mess with the stuff I don't want them messing with (mainly the receiver, battery backup/power conditioner and htpc)


That seems somewhat counter productive and makes the things with the blinky lights and knobs even more desirable. I mean my 2 yr old grandson knows about using chairs and such to get to higher things but doesn't use that knowledge for bad or forbidden purposes. Good parenting seems to me a better alternative to deliberately making things inconvenient. Just my 2¢...


----------



## Sir Meili

olyteddy said:


> That seems somewhat counter productive and makes the things with the blinky lights and knobs even more desirable. I mean my 2 yr old grandson knows about using chairs and such to get to higher things but doesn't use that knowledge for bad or forbidden purposes. Good parenting seems to me a better alternative to deliberately making things inconvenient. Just my 2¢...


I will say that once, the 5y/o turned off the power conditioner (I think he was 4 at the time). He did not get into "trouble", but he was told to not do it again. I mean, after all, it only interrupted his TV watching. He didn't do it again, not once. Now I have a 10 month old who is starting to walk around. Good parenting or not, it would be more than inconvenient to have to turn it all back on every time he turns it off. It will also, in my opinion, be a bit safer for him to not have access to those electronics until he is older. With another one on the way, I think the day it took to redo the rack was worth it, "good" parenting or not.

Secondly, this actually places all the things that people actually need to access at the bottom (gaming systems and drawers). There is little to no reason for anyone to ever touch the reciever, power conditioner/UPS, or HTPC. We have a remote for accessing those.

But I would really like to thank you for judging my parenting skills based on 1 post in a forum. Bravo for you 

*and if I seem a bit peeved off, it's because I am. And you can keep your 2¢


----------



## Archaea

More photos
http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/jvonengeln/library/AV rack?sort=3&page=1


My Rack - Cooper Industries B-Line V-Line
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con..._electronic_enclosures/v-line-dual-hinge.html


Rack before install:










My Gear:










Cut out made:








Slid in:










Final:


----------



## olyteddy

Sir Meili said:


> I will say that once, the 5y/o turned off the power conditioner (I think he was 4 at the time). He did not get into "trouble", but he was told to not do it again. I mean, after all, it only interrupted his TV watching. He didn't do it again, not once. Now I have a 10 month old who is starting to walk around. Good parenting or not, it would be more than inconvenient to have to turn it all back on every time he turns it off. It will also, in my opinion, be a bit safer for him to not have access to those electronics until he is older. With another one on the way, I think the day it took to redo the rack was worth it, "good" parenting or not.
> 
> Secondly, this actually places all the things that people actually need to access at the bottom (gaming systems and drawers). There is little to no reason for anyone to ever touch the reciever, power conditioner/UPS, or HTPC. We have a remote for accessing those.
> 
> But I would really like to thank you for judging my parenting skills based on 1 post in a forum. Bravo for you
> 
> *and if I seem a bit peeved off, it's because I am. And you can keep your 2¢


Sorry. My remark(s) weren't intended to judge or peeve you off, rather to point out that children should be raised to respect other's property. Anyway, it works for you. So back to the topic.


----------



## Keith Mickunas

olyteddy said:


> Sorry. My remark(s) weren't intended to judge or peeve you off, rather to point out that children should be raised to respect other's property. Anyway, it works for you. So back to the topic.


Accidents happen with little kids, that's just life. You can take action to minimize those, like using tamper resistant electrical outlets, keeping medicine and cleaning products that they may consume out of their reach, etc. Sir Meilie seems like the kind of parent that wisely takes precautions which frankly is good parenting.


----------



## hanesian

olyteddy said:


> Sorry. My remark(s) weren't intended to judge or peeve you off, rather to point out that children should be raised to respect other's property. Anyway, it works for you. So back to the topic.



"Before I married, I had three theories about raising children and no children. Now, I have three children and no theories." - John Wilmot


But this works a charm in keeping little fingers away from knobs and flashy lights!


----------



## PGTweed

hanesian said:


> "Before I married, I had three theories about raising children and no children. Now, I have three children and no theories." - John Wilmot
> 
> 
> But this works a charm in keeping little fingers away from knobs and flashy lights!


As Red Green from The Red Green Show observed. "The Handyman's secret weapon: Ducktape.


----------



## olyteddy

As a maintenance man for a large retirement community I know only these three things:

1) If it doesn't move (and should) use WD-40.
2) If it does move (and shouldn't) use duct tape.
3) Payday is Friday.


----------



## BllDo

olyteddy said:


> As a maintenance man for a large retirement community I know only these three things:
> 
> 1) If it doesn't move (and should) use WD-40.
> 2) If it does move (and shouldn't) use duct tape.
> 3) Payday is Friday.


I'm confused, does 1 - 3 apply just to the retirees or the facilities as well?


----------



## Goshwin

My long overdue rack shot.


----------



## top notch design

Here's some of our recent installs...
















































A properly executed rack is a true thing of beauty.


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## ellisr63

top notch design said:


> here's some of our recent installs...
> 
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> a properly executed rack is a true thing of beauty.


*wow!!!*


----------



## Field

Quick question, for you guys who have your racks on the side or behind the TV/Sound system, how do you manage the remotes line-of-sight? Do you have to point your remote behind you to change channel/vol/control devices/etc?


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## scraejtp

Field said:


> Quick question, for you guys who have your racks on the side or behind the TV/Sound system, how do you manage the remotes line-of-sight? Do you have to point your remote behind you to change channel/vol/control devices/etc?


Lots of options. I use a rather simple (cheap) Harmony Ultimate One/Hub. Essentially a decent/simple interface that uses a hub and IR blaster for your components. Works with your smartphone as well, and is starting to play nice with other smart components. (Lights, HVAC, etc.)


----------



## wkearney99

Field said:


> Quick question, for you guys who have your racks on the side or behind the TV/Sound system, how do you manage the remotes line-of-sight? Do you have to point your remote behind you to change channel/vol/control devices/etc?


Typically, a IR repeater is used in the rack. It will have small IR emitters plugged into it and those will be attached to the front of the equipment in the rack. The remote(s) will communicate with the repeater either via RF signals or through the use of an IR receiver placed somewhere at the front of the room. RF remotes are typically easier as you don't have to worry about aiming for the IR receiver. An IR receiver would allow using the factory IR remotes if necessary.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

top notch design said:


> Here's some of our recent installs...
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> A properly executed rack is a true thing of beauty.


Very nice indeed.

In the pic above, what are the amps at the top for? Always been curious why people use these. Figured it's either for other zones, or because a surround processror or pre-amp is used instead of a receiver. Looks like there is an AVR in this rack though.

Regards

Mark


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## wkearney99

mark_anderson_u said:


> In the pic above, what are the amps at the top for? Always been curious why people use these. Figured it's either for other zones, or because a surround processror or pre-amp is used instead of a receiver. Looks like there is an AVR in this rack though.


Some folks prefer using external amps instead of those built into the AVR. Sound quality and power typically being the reasons. But then when you start wandering down that road a whole lot of 'audiophile beliefs' come into play. What you or I might consider perfectly respectable, others might find utterly unacceptable.


----------



## top notch design

mark_anderson_u said:


> Very nice indeed.
> 
> In the pic above, what are the amps at the top for? Always been curious why people use these. Figured it's either for other zones, or because a surround processror or pre-amp is used instead of a receiver. Looks like there is an AVR in this rack though.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Mark


Distributed audio Amps. That house has 15 zones of audio


----------



## mark_anderson_u

wkearney99 said:


> But then when you start wandering down that road a whole lot of 'audiophile beliefs' come into play. What you or I might consider perfectly respectable, others might find utterly unacceptable.


Very true


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## mark_anderson_u

top notch design said:


> Distributed audio Amps. That house has 15 zones of audio


Thanks


----------



## traider79

I am in the process of looking for an in the wall rack I went through numerous pages in this thread I think I an going to go with the Middle Atlantic ERK-4025 Rack. 


I do have a few questions about it though: 

I love the open look in the front but having kids that touch things should I go with the vented front?

Is there another brand or make of shelves that are cheaper than the MA ones?

I think customavracks has really good pricing anyone have a better source?


----------



## auburnu008

traider79 said:


> I am in the process of looking for an in the wall rack I went through numerous pages in this thread I think I an going to go with the Middle Atlantic ERK-4025 Rack.
> 
> 
> I do have a few questions about it though:
> 
> I love the open look in the front but having kids that touch things should I go with the vented front?
> 
> Is there another brand or make of shelves that are cheaper than the MA ones?
> 
> I think customavracks has really good pricing anyone have a better source?


I have the ERK series. Great racks. The best on the market in my opinion. 

I believe Monoprice sells cheaper shelves. 

I have about (10) 2 unit Middle Atlantic shelves I would get you a good deal on if you need those. I just ordered all custom face plates and shelves from customavracks so I do not need them. 

customavracks was great to deal with. Very good experience.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

If you want cheap shelves: http://www.htdepot.com/AV-Cabinet-Server-Rack-Cantilever-Slab-p/90121.htm

$16 a shelf.


----------



## rms8

Take a look at my rack 

That monitor is actually the desktop to the media server. The screen saver is one of those old school flip clocks from the 70's. I turn the brightness setting to its lowest.










*1) Media Server display
2) HTPC display/IR
3) HTPC fanless case front
4) Xbox One
5) Bluray Player
6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
7) Denon AVR-4520ci
8) drawer
9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
12) Sanway FP-14000
13) Sanway FP-10000Q
14) Turntable on extendable tray *


----------



## Turrican4D

kezug said:


> Ok, this thread fell by the way side.... we need more pics of racks!


----------



## TMcG

Turrican4D said:


>


Is that a Middle Atlantic rack?? Or more like a California rack? Does that one spin around for easy access to the back?


----------



## K2sno311

TMcG said:


> Is that a Middle Atlantic rack?? Or more like a California rack? Does that one spin around for easy access to the back?


Why, yes it does...


----------



## mark_anderson_u

rms8 said:


> Take a look at my rack
> 
> That monitor is actually the desktop to the media server. The screen saver is one of those old school flip clocks from the 70's. I turn the brightness setting to its lowest.


Nice. How do you cool it? My rack is open at back and in semi finished basement. I have fans (and AVR) at top, but am too afraid to close up back. Wondering how you cool yours and what internal temp is like


----------



## rms8

mark_anderson_u said:


> Nice. How do you cool it? My rack is open at back and in semi finished basement. I have fans (and AVR) at top, but am too afraid to close up back. Wondering how you cool yours and what internal temp is like


Hi Mark !

It's cooled by having one of 2 returns for the HT inside the rack room. The pics below show some of the items I used. The room is always room temp due to the pretty powerful exhaust fan located on the other side of the basement and the optional way in which I have it turn on.

You can see the details in my HT build thread located here : Concrete Bunker DIY Rustic Dream Theater

Since the only way that return can draw air in is through the front of the rack, the equipment always runs cool due to the cooler air rushing over it and being sucked out.

Thanks Mark!
Rob


----------



## mark_anderson_u

rms8 said:


> Hi Mark !
> 
> It's cooled by having one of 2 returns for the HT inside the rack room. The pics below show some of the items I used. The room is always room temp due to the pretty powerful exhaust fan located on the other side of the basement and the optional way in which I have it turn on.
> 
> You can see the details in my HT build thread located here : Concrete Bunker DIY Rustic Dream Theater
> 
> Since the only way that return can draw air in is through the front of the rack, the equipment always runs cool due to the cooler air rushing over it and being sucked out.
> 
> Thanks Mark!
> Rob


Thanks rob. nice job BTW


----------



## wkearney99

rms8 said:


> It's cooled by having one of 2 returns for the HT inside the rack room.
> ...
> Since the only way that return can draw air in is through the front of the rack, the equipment always runs cool due to the cooler air rushing over it and being sucked out.


I've never been a big fan of pulling a lot of room air directly in through the equipment. This can lead to a lot of dust being pulled into the gear. This makes it a hassle to keep them clean because they have to be disassembled. Otherwise the collecting dust starts causing the internal components to be unable to release their heat effectively, leading to the device failing. That and pulling them out to get them open for cleaning means moving wires and risking damaging those in the process.

Better to have a door on the rack with a filter panel of some sort. This way the ambient air gets pulled through the filter first. You'd be (unpleasantly) surprised to see how much gunk collects. Especially if there's pets, smoking or the area gets a lot of foot traffic. But you'd also need to consider if that introduces undue restrictions on the HVAC system, which can greatly impact it's performance/lifespan.

I make this point because the way you've described it makes it seem like a lot of the room's return air depends on going through that route. I don't know that I'd make that choice because of the dust and it's impact on the gear (both AV and HVAC).


----------



## Yukichon

Ive started to get the paint on the walls, going for grey and a blue colour combo. Lowes had a deal on Valspar reserve and Olympic one which goes on very well


----------



## rms8

wkearney99 said:


> I've never been a big fan of pulling a lot of room air directly in through the equipment. This can lead to a lot of dust being pulled into the gear. This makes it a hassle to keep them clean because they have to be disassembled. Otherwise the collecting dust starts causing the internal components to be unable to release their heat effectively, leading to the device failing. That and pulling them out to get them open for cleaning means moving wires and risking damaging those in the process.
> 
> Better to have a door on the rack with a filter panel of some sort. This way the ambient air gets pulled through the filter first. You'd be (unpleasantly) surprised to see how much gunk collects. Especially if there's pets, smoking or the area gets a lot of foot traffic. But you'd also need to consider if that introduces undue restrictions on the HVAC system, which can greatly impact it's performance/lifespan.
> 
> I make this point because the way you've described it makes it seem like a lot of the room's return air depends on going through that route. I don't know that I'd make that choice because of the dust and it's impact on the gear (both AV and HVAC).



I appreciate your advice but I took all this into consideration over the couple of years planning this out. OCD can do that to ya and dust is no friend of the _obsessive_.

The room has a single point of entry which is closed off to the rest of the world. The only way air circulates through the room is by the pair of supplies in the rear. There is a pair of pantyhose stretched across each boot behind each grill on EACH end of the supply legs. This prevent dust from entering the room and are easily vacuumed when the need arises.

There are two returns. One opened to the whole room in the front and one inside the equipment room. They both draw air across the whole room. The Panasonic exhaust fan is rated at 440CFM via it's 8" inlet. This is split into a pair of 6" lines in the HT room. So far it works pretty good. The HVAC is a self contained unit (minisplit) located in the room. It has no interaction with outside air and actually acts as a psuedo air filter itself due to the filters contained within it.

"_This aint my first rodeo _ "

FWIW, my profession also dictated a lot of my design. I'm an EE and work in the technical support arm of Alcatel-Lucent supporting engineers & technicians at Verizon, Sprint, AT&T....I've seen plenty of of routers, cell sites, switches...meet their demise and host all sorts of issues due to dust, hair, insects...infiltrating the equipment.


----------



## fmzip

Great thread!


I came across a ERK-4425 44RU locally. Would this be suitable for normal audio equipment?

http://www.markertek.com/product/er...ch-deep-stand-alone-rack-with-rear-door-black


----------



## asq19

fmzip said:


> Great thread!
> 
> 
> I came across a ERK-4425 44RU locally. Would this be suitable for normal audio equipment?
> 
> http://www.markertek.com/product/er...ch-deep-stand-alone-rack-with-rear-door-black


Absolutely. Great rack.


----------



## Mr47

Well, I'm glad to finally get to throw my hat into the ring! Its still a work in progress, but here is my rack that I pulled out of an abandoned building and shined up! Equipment from bottom to top: Denon X3000 receiver, HTPC in Silverstone LC17B case, Oppo BDP-103D Blu-Ray player/video processor, Xbox 360, and a PS3. Everything is being powered by a Tripp-Lite 2440Watt on-line UPS. I also used Middle Atlantic Custom shelves/Brushed aluminum face plates for everything.

I have a lot planned for the rack, but I quickly ran out of money hahahaha! I still need to run the networking for everything as well as all of my serial cables for the automation, but I'm getting there. In the future I plan to add a Parrasound A31 amplifier for just my front channel speakers and let the receiver take care of the surrounds. I am also hoping to get some crowson actuators and a proper amp for those as well.


----------



## RadarVector

What are most of the faceplates made out of on common racks? I have a CNC Plasma table and I was considering cutting them out of stainless or aluminum? Any preferences on material?


----------



## Pain Infliction

RadarVector said:


> What are most of the faceplates made out of on common racks? I have a CNC Plasma table and I was considering cutting them out of stainless or aluminum? Any preferences on material?


Which ever is cheaper is what I would get. Doesn't really matter because I am assuming that you are going to paint them anyway. The face plates that come from MA are made out of some type of steel. Can't really tell what type because they are painted, but I doubt it is stainless.


----------



## Tedd

I expect any anodized face plates are aluminum. They are very light weight. 
My blank face plates are all steel save for one aluminum . My ventilated 
plates are all steel. 

My ventilated plates were ordered, while the ventilated and blanks (and most 
of my newer style shelves) were all ebay'ed on the cheap. Hence the mixture.
They'll all be getting a matching rattle can hammered finish in the spring, once 
I am done with some electronic upgrades. 


I've been toying with investing in a CNC router and make my own MDF face 
plates, as I tend to upgrade often. So I think your idea has some great merit. 
You could even invest in a metal brake, and make your own shelves, with that 
plasma cutter.


----------



## popalock

rms8 said:


> Take a look at my rack
> 
> That monitor is actually the desktop to the media server. The screen saver is one of those old school flip clocks from the 70's. I turn the brightness setting to its lowest.


I spy a LG FP14K (clone?) and a seriously awesome custom painted iNuke... 

Niiiice!!!


----------



## Mr47

RadarVector said:


> What are most of the faceplates made out of on common racks? I have a CNC Plasma table and I was considering cutting them out of stainless or aluminum? Any preferences on material?


All of my face plates are anodized aluminum and the vented blanks are steel.


----------



## RadarVector

Tedd said:


> I expect any anodized face plates are aluminum. They are very light weight.
> My blank face plates are all steel save for one aluminum . My ventilated
> plates are all steel.
> 
> My ventilated plates were ordered, while the ventilated and blanks (and most
> of my newer style shelves) were all ebay'ed on the cheap. Hence the mixture.
> They'll all be getting a matching rattle can hammered finish in the spring, once
> I am done with some electronic upgrades.
> 
> 
> I've been toying with investing in a CNC router and make my own MDF face
> plates, as I tend to upgrade often. So I think your idea has some great merit.
> You could even invest in a metal brake, and make your own shelves, with that
> plasma cutter.



That'll work. I have tons of scrap 14ga that I can use for the face plates. I think a CNC router would be fun to have. I do have a metal brake and hadn't even considered making my own shelves. I think I may now. I hate to buy anything that I can build myself.


----------



## Tedd

You also might check out Craigslist's for used racks. Buying one with shelves
might be another good option as you could modify the shelves for ventilation and 
clamp down slots. 

The bigger savings is in face plates and shelves tend to be reusable when making 
electronic upgrades.


----------



## rms8

popalock said:


> I spy a LG FP14K (clone?) and a seriously awesome custom painted iNuke...
> 
> Niiiice!!!



Yes, the clone powers the 8 FiCar IB318'. 4 up front and 2 each in each rear corner. The rear corners are on a 45degree angle.

*8 18" IB subs in Concrete Bunker HT *

The iNuke look so distracting being silver in the black rack. I really didn't do anything special with it. I just took some grog tape and taped the glossy part in the front. Then I sprayed it flat black with some Krylon. Best part is, I only sprayed what you see once installed. The rest of the case is still silver. The iNuke just powers the second pair of Side Surrounds since I can add delay (to avoid any comb filtering) via the iNuke.


----------



## fmzip

I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.

I decided t build my own instead.

Here's mine:


----------



## wkearney99

Nice. Those speakers... I'm guessing you don't have little kids or pets...


----------



## brickyardz

fmzip said:


> I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.
> 
> I decided t build my own instead.
> 
> Here's mine:


Awesome set up!


----------



## fmzip

wkearney99 said:


> Nice. Those speakers... I'm guessing you don't have little kids or pets...



That would be correct


----------



## TMcG

Nice rack fmzip. I miss my Nautilus 802s, HTM1 and Nautilus 803s every time I see those Kevlar drivers.


----------



## DG_

Is rear access an absolute requirement when building an in wall av rack? 

I'm asking because I do not have a good location where I would have rear access and am now wondering if I should to build a recessed enclosure in the wall with no ventilation (similar to what fmzip's rack looks).


----------



## John Robinson

fmzip said:


> I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.
> 
> I decided t build my own instead.
> 
> Here's mine:




Those speakers are absolutely beautiful. My wife would say HELL NO if I tried to bring those in the house though


----------



## fmzip

John Robinson said:


> Those speakers are absolutely beautiful. My wife would say HELL NO if I tried to bring those in the house though


That's why I bought all my gear *BEFORE* I asked her to marry me.

I waited 47 years to wed, I needed *A LOT* of gear!


----------



## fmzip

DG_ said:


> Is rear access an absolute requirement when building an in wall av rack?
> 
> I'm asking because I do not have a good location where I would have rear access and am now wondering if I should to build a recessed enclosure in the wall with no ventilation (similar to what fmzip's rack looks).


I would advise against that. If you do proceed, in my cabinet for example, I'd have half those components. You need to create more air space. How deep can you go if you recess it into the wall. You need a minimum of 22 inches, component depth plus cable connections


----------



## rms8

DG_ said:


> Is rear access an absolute requirement when building an in wall av rack?
> 
> I'm asking because I do not have a good location where I would have rear access and am now wondering if I should to build a recessed enclosure in the wall with no ventilation (similar to what fmzip's rack looks).


I think it would be very difficult to wire up a rack if you did not have access to the rear. You would still need some sort of ventilation too, unless your shelves were spaced really far apart from each other....but then you're back to still needing access to the rear.


----------



## jautor

rms8 said:


> I think it would be very difficult to wire up a rack if you did not have access to the rear. You would still need some sort of ventilation too, unless your shelves were spaced really far apart from each other....but then you're back to still needing access to the rear.


Pull-out racks such as the Middle Atlantic AX-S and AX-SR series can make this work. Air circulation can be handled with fans (check for noise levels though) pulling air through the rack and back out into the room. Those do need ample depth (mine just barely fits at ~23" of finished depth) to work, though.

I have the AX-S rack in my theater, and it works well. But given a complete design do-over, I'd rather have access to the rear. While it only takes ~10 minutes to gain access to the gear, I've had to do that more often than I would have expected. But I also realized that the breaker can be used to reset gear! 

Jeff


----------



## John Robinson

Just throwing this out there - pull-out racks with a bazillion cables danging from the back of each component is a major PAIN IN THE ASS unless you're meticulous about cable management.


----------



## John Robinson

fmzip said:


> I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.
> 
> I decided t build my own instead.
> 
> Here's mine:



Can you explain how you went about building this? I'd love to do something similar. Did you build the "book case" separate and then set it into a hole in the wall? Or did you build it directly into the wall?


----------



## DG_

fmzip said:


> I would advise against that. If you do proceed, in my cabinet for example, I'd have half those components. You need to create more air space. How deep can you go if you recess it into the wall. You need a minimum of 22 inches, component depth plus cable connections


I have a good 30" +/- 2" of space I can use for the shelving. 
Currently have everything in a console under the TV, but it's starting to spill out on top of the console and the wife is not liking it...


----------



## DG_

rms8 said:


> I think it would be very difficult to wire up a rack if you did not have access to the rear. You would still need some sort of ventilation too, unless your shelves were spaced really far apart from each other....but then you're back to still needing access to the rear.


The only other option I have is to open up the wall from the opposite side, a closet. However it would be tight and the space in between goes to the attic, so I would now lose heat to the ambient temps of the attic.


----------



## fmzip

John Robinson said:


> Can you explain how you went about building this? I'd love to do something similar. Did you build the "book case" separate and then set it into a hole in the wall? Or did you build it directly into the wall?


Yes John.

I ended up building the shelf first, cut the hole into the wall, butted the shelf up to the front edge of the wall, then trimmed it.

Here are some photos as I recently added to it at the bottom as I ran out of shelf space:


----------



## John Robinson

PERFECT!!! I'm printing these off and showing my contractor. Thank you!

What did you use for shelving? I noticed the fronts of the shelving are routed for decoration?

What is the dimensions? LxWxD?


----------



## wkearney99

DG_ said:


> The only other option I have is to open up the wall from the opposite side, a closet. However it would be tight and the space in between goes to the attic, so I would now lose heat to the ambient temps of the attic.


If you cut it into the attic space you'd need to insulate the attic-facing side, just as you would any regular wall. Solid foam board works well for this, provided it's cut leaving VERY tight joints, which are then taped. 

As for ventilation and fans, nothing says the fans have to be in the cabinet. Put them at the other end of a duct leading from the cabinet. Have them located in a place that is 'less problematic' for the noise. Just bear in mind ducts introduce airflow drag so the longer the ducting (or the turns in it) the greater the CFMs the fans may need to move.


----------



## wkearney99

fmzip said:


>


I'd have been more inclined toward expanding that wall outward, rather than losing closet space. In that particular room it looks like it'd have been possible to do that without significantly impacting the way the space is used. I point this out because you've now got the most fragile part of the equipment (the wires & connectors) facing toward a space like to get coats and the like crammed in it. If not by you, by guests... I'd think about setting up a perforated back panel of some sort just to eliminate the issue entirely.

It wouldn't be as simple as what you did, just cutting a hole in an existing painted wall. Bumping it out would entail putting up the studs, bridging over the radiators, drywalling and painting. But it'd keep the closet space and potentially avoid being a resale issue in the future.


----------



## BllDo

How would that be a resale issue? You pull it out, patch the drywall and throw up some paint. That's a lot easier than messing the registers.


----------



## wkearney99

Seeing how there's no picture of how the radiator plumbing is running, I'm not sure I'd go making assumptions about it. 

By bridging I meant boxing the wall such that nothing needed to be done to the radiator at that location. Not terribly complicated. Worst case it'd be a simple matter of trimming the end of the fascia panel back. The plumbing would remain in place, unmolested.

Sure, if you're prepared to rip it all out, drywall and repaint, that's "easy". (Not really) 

From a resale perspective automation and wiring for AV gear is often a BIG detractor. To then add loss of the main closet off the entry door? Double trouble. Yes, it's a really clever idea and appears very nicely done. Posting the pictures was great too (so thanks for that!)

My advice to anyone else considering a similar setup remains that it's worth thinking about building out a space for something like this as opposed to cutting into an otherwise usable space.


----------



## pburgh

I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet. 

Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in

Thanks!


----------



## fmzip

John Robinson said:


> PERFECT!!! I'm printing these off and showing my contractor. Thank you!
> 
> What did you use for shelving? I noticed the fronts of the shelving are routed for decoration?
> 
> What is the dimensions? LxWxD?


The height of the total enclosure would be whatever you want it to be. My inside width and depth of the shelf openings is 18". I'd go width 20" depth and a 19-20" width if you have the room. My Emotiva amps are 19 deep so I could say go 20" deep.

I had problems with the width in my setup as I wanted it centered on that wall. I couldn't go wider than the 18" inside dimension, as the sliding closet door would have hit the rack. It's a pretty tight fight as I don't have much room left or right. You can see the door jam almost hits the rack.

I used 3/4 birch from Lowes for the entire piece. 

http://www.lowes.com/Search=birch+3...logId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=birch+3/4#!

My shelf height openings are 5 1/2, 7 1/2, & 9 1/2. Ideally, if you're carpenter is more crafty than me, some adjustable shelves with pegs would make life easier in case you ever want to move them up or down a few inches. The only issue with pegs is all the holes look a bit ugly.

Give your components like your preamp/pro at least 1 1/2" inches of open air above them. Amps I would suggest a good 3 inches. Mine are Class A so they can run hot. I do have an exhaust fan wired in the closet into the attic but I never use it. I may have to in the summer if I crank those amps for several hours

The trim can be had at Home Depot or Lowes:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-Fara-3-4-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Hardwood-Fluted-Casing-583/100082924

The little corners are here:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of...n-MDF-Rosette-Block-Moulding-R55MDF/202087587

The front trim for the shelves is also fluted 3/4 trim I found at Home Depot. This isn't the eaxct width but it's like it in 3/4. There are lots of cool choices for trim, take a ride to the store and check them out:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DecraMol...-and-Cabinet-Trim-Moulding-10000168/100390817

Hope this helps you. I think this setup looks less industrial and likely would be wife approved!


----------



## fmzip

pburgh said:


> I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.
> 
> Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in
> 
> Thanks!



40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables


----------



## pburgh

fmzip said:


> 40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables


Thanks 

Maybe I could just climb inside the rack when I need to work on it? Haha


----------



## fmzip

pburgh said:


> Thanks
> 
> Maybe I could just climb inside the rack when I need to work on it? Haha


You could, that's DEEP!


----------



## fmzip

wkearney99 said:


> From a resale perspective automation and wiring for AV gear is often a BIG detractor. To then add loss of the main closet off the entry door? Double trouble. Yes, it's a really clever idea and appears very nicely done. Posting the pictures was great too (so thanks for that!)
> 
> My advice to anyone else considering a similar setup remains that it's worth thinking about building out a space for something like this as opposed to cutting into an otherwise usable space.





wkearney99 said:


> I'd have been more inclined toward expanding that wall outward, rather than losing closet space. In that particular room it looks like it'd have been possible to do that without significantly impacting the way the space is used. I point this out because you've now got the most fragile part of the equipment (the wires & connectors) facing toward a space like to get coats and the like crammed in it. If not by you, by guests... I'd think about setting up a perforated back panel of some sort just to eliminate the issue entirely.
> 
> It wouldn't be as simple as what you did, just cutting a hole in an existing painted wall. Bumping it out would entail putting up the studs, bridging over the radiators, drywalling and painting. But it'd keep the closet space and potentially avoid being a resale issue in the future.



Depends if its a buyer from this forum 

To the wind with resale value. If you plan to stay, make the home your home. Life is too short 

My home is soooooo way over done inside and out, it will sell fast when the day comes 10 years from now. It used to be my grandmother's house so I got it 20 years ago for next to nothing. It's now a $300K home in a $180K neighborhood. There is way too many upgrades, the front closet won't be a deal breaker I am sure. But it's a very good point from a resale perspective. If done right, I doubt it's an issue. It's a built in shelf. 1/2 the closet could still be used. Not hard to bring it back to normal though, one piece of sheetrock and a 1/2 quart of paint.

I think potential home buyers would have a harder time looking past an industrial metal rack in the middle of the room than a painted wooden built in shelf that looks like it came with the house..

Also, bumping it out would have been more of PITA and would throw off the _Fung Shway_ 

P.S. The entire closet is for *ME*. Guest's can use the bedroom bed to pop a coat on it if need be. Our main entrance is through our basement, coats go in this room which is for my headphone rig:




















We have no kids, 3 bedrooms and 4 closets just like the one I took over  It's ALL about the audio!


----------



## Tedd

*A+b=c ???*



pburgh said:


> I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.
> 
> Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in
> 
> Thanks!


A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?


----------



## pburgh

Tedd said:


> A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?


Great idea! I'll investigate this option. Thanks!


----------



## wkearney99

fmzip said:


> 40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables


What? That's kinda nonsensical. You wire into where ever the gear is installed. Nothing says everything has to be at the back. Plenty of deeper racks have the side intermediate supports for wires, or accessories for such can be added easily.

What you DO need is to take movement into account. If you plan on being able to move the rack then make sure whatever wiring you connect has appropriate slack to accommodate the distances desired. But you generally should NOT plan on moving a rack with any regularity as wire can be brittle and break over time. Even with the support arms you still want to avoid flexing the same point of a cable over and over. 

That and make sure you've got enough room for the whole base AND the wheels. Sometimes racks require just a "little more" when the wheels have to spin. Better ones don't as the wheels are usually fully recessed inside the outside dimensions.

A deeper rack can also allow for more gear. Some faces the front, others facing the back. That and rack shelving can be had that has an inset so anything the back could be recessed inward to keep all the connections flush with the back.

But it's been my experience that with a deep rack you really need more than just front access. Pull that much gear out, and all the wires connected to it, can be a problem. Sometimes a gift rack isn't worth the complications.


----------



## wkearney99

Tedd said:


> A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?


Most better quality racks have a welded base or other parts of the frame. Thus a grinder won't help. If it's a cheaper rack that came knocked-down in a box then, maybe, but there's still likely to be some panels or other elements that won't line up.

Seems like it'd be better re-sold and the money put toward buying something with the desired dimensions.


----------



## Tedd

I was speaking from personal experience there, having cut apart a wielded 
steel rack with a 4" angle grinder. 


Maybe not a project for everyone, but if that rack is to be fixed in place, then 
it is a very viable option. 


Those metal sides could even be replaced with plywood, and become DIY face 
plate material.


----------



## Neurorad

My server rack is close to 40" deep - it has removable sides, and it's pretty easy to work in. Where it's located, I have access to the back, a side, and the front.

The depth allowed me to add a 3rd set of vertical rack rails, for oddball items and easier cable management.

But, I am eager to get rid of this behemoth - it fills most of this mechanical room. I will replace it with a 24" deep Middle Atlantic RCS/Essex.


----------



## Pain Infliction

I have a 24" slim5 Middle Atlantic rack and wouldn't mind if I had the 16" one instead. Mostly because the wires would look better with a smaller rack. It would also give me more room in my av closet. Not a super big deal though. I am happy with the 24" rack and it has served me well for the past 3 or 4 years.


----------



## nexxest

My rack:


----------



## towercontrol

fmzip said:


> I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.
> 
> I decided t build my own instead.
> 
> Here's mine:


Great Set!


----------



## towercontrol

Newshoundaussie said:


> 
> Just finished setup for 9.2  added wide fronts. One picture of it lit other new patch box added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> up.


Looking at your pics again. I like the junction boxes you used. I think the idea is great. I have made rack movable if needed to. But ive done that with extra line. So I'm thinking that I may need to do the same as you. It would make it easier to unplug from a box then to work around a mess of stretched out lines. the face looks great too. nice and clean. GOOD IDEA! Winter is here, boxing day around the corner and so I've got work to do!


----------



## wkearney99

towercontrol said:


> Looking at your pics again. I like the junction boxes you used. I think the idea is great.!


There's also rack mountable patch panels which don't force you into the tight quarters of a junction box.


----------



## Slingblayde

Is anybody with a rack using a HTPC with a rackmount keyboard/lcd monitor drawer for controlling it? I dont know if I want to dink around with a wireless mouse and KB for the HTPC, Id rather be able to pull a drawer out, flip the LCD up and do whatever I have to do. I found a bunch like this one on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripp-Lite-...2582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c49f08076 
That is pretty much what I want, but does anybody know of a better place to get a new one that isnt a fortune? I would prefer new over used if it isnt expensive.
I would like 19 inch lcd if possible and it will be going in a MA Slim 5 rack. 
Anybody have any pics of their lcd/kb drawer?

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!


----------



## NGiovas

Slingblayde, I had that exact KVM unit in a computer rack in my data closet. Bought it new a few years ago for around $100 on eBay. Works great. Takes up very little space. I had it set up to switch between 4 different servers. Mine only works with VGA, no HD signals.

I pulled the rack and servers out, but I would buy it again for "utility" use.


----------



## wkearney99

Have you planned out all your gear first? Because by the time you stack everything up there's not always enough room left for a screen. That and you have to factor what gear you want at the height best suited for the keyboard. That and determine what, if anything you'd actually be doing while standing uncomfortably in front of the rack. I point this out from experience and failed expectations. Sometimes it's better treating the rack gear as not having any user-interaction and using a tablet or remote instead. 

That said, it's best to separate the display, keyboard and KVM from each other, when possible. This way you're not stuck with the limitations of one causing problems. As in, being stuck with VGA when you need DVI/HDMI for display or PS2 keyboard when you need USB.


----------



## MrBobb

*Poorman's Rack*

I will show you mine if you show me yours! 

Very nice setups here indeed, am jealous. 

Which compels me to post my Poorman's Rack (even poor people can have fun). This ain't no dedicated home theater but the work is custom, with space-saving a main feature. Pictured are my stereo rack and unfinished network rack. It's been 4 years and nothing have come apart, even in this land of earthquakes.


----------



## azz7686

MrBobb said:


> I will show you mine if you show me yours!
> 
> Very nice setups here indeed, am jealous.
> 
> Which compels me to post my Poorman's Rack (even poor people can have fun). This ain't no dedicated home theater but the work is custom, with space-saving a main feature. Pictured are my stereo rack and unfinished network rack. It's been 4 years and nothing have come apart, even in this land of earthquakes.


Love the network rack been there done that. lol.


----------



## azz7686

Heres my rack in closet!


----------



## Pain Infliction

Added another rack to clean up my network laying on the floor and also installed surveillance system in it as well. Note all the extra room for more amps hint hint.  Took me about 12 hours to get it all set up and it is paying off. Still need some more wire management but that will get done this weekend. Crappy cell phone pics but I will get better pics when it is completely done.


----------



## domz777

'built' this rack for my nephew's dorm room - I'm pretty sure he like it.


----------



## TMcG

Pain Infliction said:


> Added another rack to clean up my network laying on the floor and also installed surveillance system in it as well. Note all the extra room for more amps hint hint.  Took me about 12 hours to get it all set up and it is paying off. Still need some more wire management but that will get done this weekend. Crappy cell phone pics but I will get better pics when it is completely done.


Nice work, Pain!

I didn't realize you had a Lumagen. How do you like it?


----------



## Pain Infliction

TMcG said:


> Nice work, Pain!
> 
> I didn't realize you had a Lumagen. How do you like it?


Thank you sir! I love the lumagen. My favorite piece in my system.


----------



## Sparkygod1

These are the progressions of my audio racks in the passed nine years or so. I am working on the next one now.


----------



## popalock

Pain Infliction said:


> Thank you sir! I love the lumagen. My favorite piece in my system.


Really? Is it that good? Does it address ghosting and motion jutter issues?


----------



## Pain Infliction

No, but the reason why I like it the most is because I can watch everything in scope and it is really quick to change between NLS, 2.35, and 16:9. Of course it has all of the video calibration options as well, but the scope thing is the reason why I bought it. A lot of people don't like to watch everything is scope, but I do and i never have to worry about masking.


----------



## Newshoundaussie

Sparkygod1 said:


> These are the progressions of my audio racks in the passed nine years or so. I am working on the next one now.


Very nice!


----------



## mark_anderson_u

pburgh said:


> I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.
> 
> Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in
> 
> Thanks!


I had one. Couldn't wait to get rid of it. Way too much hassle to get to back of componenets


----------



## bigo93bronco

*A Work in Progress...*

Been following this thread for awhile, and I finally have my own creation to a point where I think its worth sharing. This started off as a useless closet at the very center of the house, which was about 4ft wide, but only 13in deep. I forgot to take a picture prior to demolition, but you can tells it was pretty stupid from the outlines in the picture.


















I knew with all the gear I planned to cram into a relatively small space, heat would be an issue. This is a large kitchen exhaust fan that pipes the air through the attic, and out the roof. It will empty the air out of a 450sqft romm in 1.5 minutes 










The foam board was just to give me a clean starting surface. It also helps seal out dust between the old wall planks, and will help keep noise from traveling through the walls










Structured wiring panels installed (maybe not preferred way, but space was tight). All the punch-out's on the left side feed into the rack closet 6" to the left










These panels will eventualy be covered by custom cabinet doors, so that they appear to be a built-in. The space to the far right will be a small counter top with storage above and below. You may not be able to see it, but the space goes back to the right an additional 13". The room this is located in will eventually be my new media room/small home theater










you can see that "dead space" a little better in this one. I'm going to get a custom granite counter top cut that extends back there. Should be enough space to tuck a coffee pot sized device out of the way. I'll do some kind of shelves above to maximize the limited space










Door on the left goes to the staircase landing, the door on the right hides the server rack. The panels are a mess at this point, as I had to quickly move everything over to keep the project moving. The bottom boxes are reserved for intercom, WHA drops, and an OMNI Pro.










Checking the final clearance of the slide out rack. If I had taken the picture from a higher vantage point, you would see it clears the top of the door frame by a meager 1/4"









Testing the slide function of the Royal Rack. It also turns 90 degrees fro access to the back of the equipment. This was the original plan, but as you will see in later pictures, I ended up adding a smaller door to the rear of the closet. I will only use the sliding base for major overhauls of the system now. I needed to use the sliding base instead of the casters option anyway to get the rack to a height lower than a door original to the house. You can see behind the rack that I installed filter grates to clean the air going into the closet. There is 1 one each side of the wall, each with a high-quality filter to slow down dust accumulation (recall the giant fan mentioned above lol)










The knockouts on the left of the wiring panels feed straight through the wall into the closet. Super easy to route wiring. That's 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits for the rack, and 2 15 amp circuits not shown. That metal bar is just some leftover shelf bracket that made for a good wire management solution.










This picture is from the staircase landing. I added an original, small closet door to the back of the closet for easier access to the back of the equipment. I installed a 1.5" PVC conduit through the wall from the top right media panel for the router. The router is dead center vertically and horizontally in the house










This is basically where i'm at right now, although I installed the stop strips and weather stripping around this door before posting this picture.










This is an older picture, but I'm proud that I managed to fit a KVM into an 18" deep rack









Here's a higher res of the rear rack


----------



## mark_anderson_u

bigo93bronco said:


> Here's a higher res of the rear rack


Nice job.

How are you cooling it all?

What are the white cables at bottom of this pic and what are they connecting. Looks like coax and RG-x patch panel


----------



## bigo93bronco

mark_anderson_u said:


> Nice job.
> 
> How are you cooling it all?
> 
> What are the white cables at bottom of this pic and what are they connecting. Looks like coax and RG-x patch panel


.

Thanks, I still have a lot of work to do, but at least it's to the point where you can see the general idea.

Cooling is handled by this. The closet doors are sealed tight, the only air that comes in goes through AC return vents (with filters) and through the tubes coming from the wiring panels (which also cools the equipment in the panels). This puppy will remove the air from a 450sqft room in 1.5 minutes









The white cables with yellow boots are short BNC patch cables I made to go from the patch panel to the CCTV DVR. That way if I ever want to move the DVR, I just make new patch cables, and don't need to mess with the main runs.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

bigo93bronco said:


> .
> 
> Thanks, I still have a lot of work to do, but at least it's to the point where you can see the general idea.
> 
> Cooling is handled by this. The closet doors are sealed tight, the only air that comes in goes through AC return vents (with filters) and through the tubes coming from the wiring panels (which also cools the equipment in the panels). This puppy will remove the air from a 450sqft room in 1.5 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white cables with yellow boots are short BNC patch cables I made to go from the patch panel to the CCTV DVR. That way if I ever want to move the DVR, I just make new patch cables, and don't need to mess with the main runs.


Thanks!


----------



## robertintemple

Here's one I did for a client. Small media room and whole house audio with some video distribution. The two ugly wires hanging free were Time Warner.. The rack was done and pretty and he came in later and did that. I don't understand how someone can do something ugly like that to a pretty rack. Some people have no professional respect...


----------



## rms8

*** UPDATE ***

Most recent update.

I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp. In addition, I have also implemented an alternate cooling approach for the big Sanways in my rack and a novel idea on monitoring their temps.

New Rack configuration:

*1) Media Server display
2) HTPC display/IR
3) HTPC fanless case front
4) Xbox One
5) Bluray Player
6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
7) Denon AVR-4520ci
8) drawer
9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
12) Sanway FP-14000
13) Sanway FP-10000Q
14) Turntable on extendable tray*










Closer look of the fan speed & amp temps controller:


----------



## wkearney99

I realize nobody uses a turntable much these days, but ugh, putting it that low to the floor's going to make it a hassle to use! I'd at least have considered putting it up under the drawer's location. Which, by the way, is a terrific addition to ANY rack. 

Likewise, the screen would be handy to have at eye-level instead of at the top. If just to allow for the use of a touchscreen at some point.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

rms8 said:


> *** UPDATE ***
> 
> Most recent update.
> 
> I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp.


Can you give me some more details on the clone amps?


----------



## rms8

wkearney99 said:


> I realize nobody uses a turntable much these days, but ugh, putting it that low to the floor's going to make it a hassle to use! I'd at least have considered putting it up under the drawer's location.


I guess if I was in my golden years it would be a hassle but I'm not and it hasn't been a hassle thus far. I wanted all the CORE items to be in the center of the rack. The turntable is used infrequently and thus is relegated to the bottom.





wkearney99 said:


> Likewise, the screen would be handy to have at eye-level instead of at the top. If just to allow for the use of a touchscreen at some point.


The screen is there ONLY to act as a clock in the room, that's it. The screen saver for the server is an analog clock. When I have to perform any maintenance on the server I do it via remote login from my main PC.

I've had a LOT of time to determine form and function of my rack. In it's present configuration, it suites my current needs just right. If needs change I'll simply pull out the screwdriver and start moving things around.


----------



## rms8

mark_anderson_u said:


> Can you give me some more details on the clone amps?


Sure.

What did ya want to know? They are simply the BEST solution to anyone needing lots of power in a small package (2U) and a very low price (comparatively speaking).

These amps come directly from China. They are literal clones of other well known manufactures (go figure). In this case, Lab Grupen. The Lab origianls will set one back around $7k. An equivalent clone comes in a magnitude below that . Around $780.

If you use a 120VAC circuit, it will have to be upgraded to a 30A service. If you have to go to the trouble of upgrading the power to it (new wire/outlet/breaker), you may as well run 240VAC instead. This would require a 20A breaker vs. 30A.

You would only really need a clone if you need something which would require A LOT of watts. In my case, I have eight 18" subwoofers arranged in an Infinite Baffle. The FP14000 provides a total of 14,000 watts for these. My new FP10000 is a 4 channel amp with a total of 10,000watts total. I use this to power the ButtKicker shakers of various forms and locations.

The FP10000 which I recently ordered took about one week for delivery from China. Not bad at all.

The technical support (should you need it) is ABSOLUTELY BEYOND COMPARE !!!!! Sure it's all via email, but they give you specific solutions THAT WORK, not some BS list of routines to stall for time.

If you're in the market for a lot of watts, you should really consider them.


----------



## mark_anderson_u

rms8 said:


> Sure.
> 
> What did ya want to know? They are simply the BEST solution to anyone needing lots of power in a small package (2U) and a very low price (comparatively speaking).
> 
> These amps come directly from China. They are literal clones of other well known manufactures (go figure). In this case, Lab Grupen. The Lab origianls will set one back around $7k. An equivalent clone comes in a magnitude below that . Around $780.
> 
> If you use a 120VAC circuit, it will have to be upgraded to a 30A service. If you have to go to the trouble of upgrading the power to it (new wire/outlet/breaker), you may as well run 240VAC instead. This would require a 20A breaker vs. 30A.
> 
> You would only really need a clone if you need something which would require A LOT of watts. In my case, I have eight 18" subwoofers arranged in an Infinite Baffle. The FP14000 provides a total of 14,000 watts for these. My new FP10000 is a 4 channel amp with a total of 10,000watts total. I use this to power the ButtKicker shakers of various forms and locations.
> 
> The FP10000 which I recently ordered took about one week for delivery from China. Not bad at all.
> 
> The technical support (should you need it) is ABSOLUTELY BEYOND COMPARE !!!!! Sure it's all via email, but they give you specific solutions THAT WORK, not some BS list of routines to stall for time.
> 
> If you're in the market for a lot of watts, you should really consider them.


Thanks!

That pretty much covers what I wanted to know


----------



## wkearney99

rms8 said:


> I've had a LOT of time to determine form and function of my rack.


Well, that's it then. So much for feedback from others. Good luck with it.


----------



## rms8

wkearney99 said:


> *Well, that's it then. So much for feedback from others. Good luck with it*.


*Seriously? Are you kidding me?

What's your beef? I've posted a pic of my rack twice in this thread and in each case you have commented with nothing but negative critiques to some how point out what i did wrong according to your infinite wisdom.

BTW, I did 7 years E&I in the USAF. I really don't need your luck.*


----------



## Pain Infliction

wkearney99 said:


> That chip... surely your shoulder MUST be getting tired from carrying it...


I never have understood your thought process....

When you first came to this thread you asked many questions that you could have searched for. No problem though, they were answered by many and no big deal. Then after you knew all that you needed to know, people would ask questions and you would tell them to go a search for it because it was "derailing this thread". Now sir, you are derailing this thread too! You give terrible advice and knock other peoples personal preference like you are superior to everybody. I should not be getting into your business with another member, but this has been a long time coming! Chill my man!


----------



## Pain Infliction

rms8 said:


> *** UPDATE ***
> 
> Most recent update.
> 
> I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp. In addition, I have also implemented an alternate cooling approach for the big Sanways in my rack and a novel idea on monitoring their temps.
> 
> New Rack configuration:
> 
> *1) Media Server display
> 2) HTPC display/IR
> 3) HTPC fanless case front
> 4) Xbox One
> 5) Bluray Player
> 6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
> 7) Denon AVR-4520ci
> 8) drawer
> 9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
> 10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
> 11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
> 12) Sanway FP-14000
> 13) Sanway FP-10000Q
> 14) Turntable on extendable tray*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer look of the fan speed & amp temps controller:


Nice strategically placed equipment in your rack! Your theater and rack are very nice and I like how you painted the inuke too. Great job!


----------



## kevin g.

rms8 said:


> *** UPDATE ***
> 
> Most recent update.
> 
> I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp. In addition, I have also implemented an alternate cooling approach for the big Sanways in my rack and a novel idea on monitoring their temps.
> 
> New Rack configuration:
> 
> *1) Media Server display
> 2) HTPC display/IR
> 3) HTPC fanless case front
> 4) Xbox One
> 5) Bluray Player
> 6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
> 7) Denon AVR-4520ci
> 8) drawer
> 9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
> 10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
> 11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
> 12) Sanway FP-14000
> 13) Sanway FP-10000Q
> 14) Turntable on extendable tray*
> 
> 
> 
> Closer look of the fan speed & amp temps controller:




Looks great to me...Wish mine was that clean






Pain Infliction said:


> I never have understood your thought process....
> 
> When you first came to this thread you asked many questions that you could have searched for. No problem though, they were answered by many and no big deal. Then after you knew all that you needed to know, people would ask questions and you would tell them to go a search for it because it was "derailing this thread". Now sir, you are derailing this thread too! You give terrible advice and knock other peoples personal preference like you are superior to everybody. I should not be getting into your business with another member, but this has been a long time coming! Chill my man!


I did not want to be the one to jump on because of a recent argument I had with him as well...I had to force myself to bite my tongue...he has done that to me in a few threads, and I have seen him force his high and mighty opinion on others as well.


----------



## rms8

wkearney99 said:


> That chip... surely your shoulder MUST be getting tired from carrying it...





Pain Infliction said:


> I never have understood your thought process....
> 
> When you first came to this thread you asked many questions that you could have searched for. No problem though, they were answered by many and no big deal. Then after you knew all that you needed to know, people would ask questions and you would tell them to go a search for it because it was "derailing this thread". Now sir, you are derailing this thread too! You give terrible advice and knock other peoples personal preference like you are superior to everybody. I should not be getting into your business with another member, but this has been a long time coming! Chill my man!



*Thanks for the confirmation that I'm not reading something into his drivel.*


----------



## rms8

kevin g. said:


> I did not want to be the one to jump on because of a recent argument I had with him as well...I had to force myself to bite my tongue...he has done that to me in a few threads, and I have seen him force his high and mighty opinion on others as well.


I too had to force myself.....to choose my words in my reply above.

The net is full of trolls and wise-guys who think they know everything about everything.

At least he's been called out and not just a single person noticed.

Thanks for the compliments Pain Infliction & Kevin. *And thanks for calling a spade a spade*.


----------



## nexxest

I have a sensor that measures the "exhaust" temperature of my 15U rack. Rack also contains Zalman fan controller and 4 x Noiseblocker 120mm fans (2 at the top, 2 at the bottom). What would be the maximum "exhaust" temperature of a typical HT rack containing Denon AVR, 2 x Inuke3000DPS and HTPC, before I get into trouble? How hot is your "exhaust"?

Pic 1
Pic 2


----------



## bigo93bronco

That's a lot of heat generating devices in a small enclosure man IDK. I'm sure your wanting to keep noise down if that rack is out in a room that you use for other things. You might consider a remote mounted fan that connects to the rack with a dryer hose to pull the hot air out at a much higher rate. This way you get the airflow, but the noisy fan could be located far away.


----------



## kbarnes701

Subscribed


----------



## JoeAngelicchio

fmzip said:


> I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.
> 
> I decided t build my own instead.
> 
> Here's mine:


 Elegant, very nice.


----------



## JoeAngelicchio

rms8 said:


> *** UPDATE ***
> 
> Most recent update.
> 
> I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp. In addition, I have also implemented an alternate cooling approach for the big Sanways in my rack and a novel idea on monitoring their temps.
> 
> New Rack configuration:
> 
> *1) Media Server display*
> *2) HTPC display/IR*
> *3) HTPC fanless case front*
> *4) Xbox One*
> *5) Bluray Player*
> *6) HDDVD/Bluray Player*
> *7) Denon AVR-4520ci*
> *8) drawer*
> *9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP*
> *10) Sherbourn PA 7-350*
> *11) Fan & Temp control for amps below*
> *12) Sanway FP-14000*
> *13) Sanway FP-10000Q*
> *14) Turntable on extendable tray*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer look of the fan speed & amp temps controller:


 Wow, cool setup!!!


----------



## fmzip

JoeAngelicchio said:


> Elegant, very nice.



Thank you Joe


----------



## CheYC

Mines not so fancy, but it works. 
Denon 1913 receiver 
Sony PS4
XFINITY cable 
Motorola SB6121 cable modem 
Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 router 
3DTV Corp 3D glasses 
Darbee Darblet
Umik-1 mic
Xrite iD3 colorimeter 
Canned air
IR repeater 









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## bouf0010

My first rack  Its an old server rack I picked up on kijiji for mega cheap, not the prettiest but its located in the room below my media room so its out of sight. 

Marantz 6007
HTPC
NU3000DSP
Alesis RA500
Alesis RA500


----------



## jongig

*Turntable in rack*

Very nice rack system. 


I have a full size middle atlantic rack and I've always wondered about getting a turntable into it. Can you explain the one you have and show pictures of it out. I have a nice Thorens mounted to the wall but with everything mounted in the wall and out of the way it might be nice to hide it as well.


----------



## kbarnes701

New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.

This is a view of the partially wired rack:










Here's a partial view of the rear of the rack, fully wired with the speaker 'snake' etc:










This is a view of the fully wired rack shown more full-length:










And this is the front. I apologise for the less than stellar cellphone camera images:










The speaker snake goes to these junction boxes in the back of the gear closet (wired for Atmos 5.2.4):










Comments, criticisms, ideas welcomed.

Gear in the rack is, from top to bottom:


Denon X5200W 9 channel Atmos AVR, used in preamp mode.
miniDSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room correction unit.
Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Front Height L&R on-ceiling speakers.
Emotiva XPA-200 powering Surround L&R speakers.
Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Top Middle L&R on-ceiling speakers.
Emotiva XPA-3 powering LCR speakers.
Oppo 103 BD player.
Panasonic DMP 35 BD player.
Toshiba HD-EP35 HD-DVD player.
Humax HD Satellite TV box.
Behringer Feedback Destroyer.

There are various fans on top of certain items of gear, operated by thermal switches. The AVR has ample clearance at the top and also has dual cooling fans operated by thermal switches. 

Speaker cables run down the left side of the rack, interconnects broadly down the middle and power cables down the right side.


----------



## rms8

kbarnes701 said:


> .


That is one clean looking cable management for not having any cable management hardware!!! great job.


----------



## kbarnes701

rms8 said:


> That is one clean looking cable management for not having any cable management hardware!!! great job.


Thanks! I didn't find out about cable management hardware until after I’d wired it! Shows what can be done when you have a bag of 1,000 cable ties


----------



## doublewing11

kbarnes701 said:


> New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.
> 
> This is a view of the partially wired rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a partial view of the rear of the rack, fully wired with the speaker 'snake' etc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view of the fully wired rack shown more full-length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the front. I apologise for the less than stellar cellphone camera images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The speaker snake goes to these junction boxes in the back of the gear closet (wired for Atmos 5.2.4):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comments, criticisms, ideas welcomed.
> 
> Gear in the rack is, from top to bottom:
> 
> 
> Denon X5200W 9 channel Atmos AVR, used in preamp mode.
> miniDSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room correction unit.
> Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Front Height L&R on-ceiling speakers.
> Emotiva XPA-200 powering Surround L&R speakers.
> Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Top Middle L&R on-ceiling speakers.
> Emotiva XPA-3 powering LCR speakers.
> Oppo 103 BD player.
> Panasonic DMP 35 BD player.
> Toshiba HD-EP35 HD-DVD player.
> Humax HD Satellite TV box.
> Behringer Feedback Destroyer.
> 
> There are various fans on top of certain items of gear, operated by thermal switches. The AVR has ample clearance at the top and also has dual cooling fans operated by thermal switches.
> 
> Speaker cables run down the left side of the rack, interconnects broadly down the middle and power cables down the right side.


Wow.................for a first rack job, very clean, organized...................now Bob's your uncle!


----------



## Pain Infliction

Great job! @kbarnes701 I think this is the first pic that I have ever seen of any of your equipment.


----------



## kbarnes701

doublewing11 said:


> Wow.................for a first rack job, very clean, organized...................now Bob's your uncle!


Thank you sir! I looked through most of this thread before I started and got some great ideas here. I am in the UK and we have far less choice than guys in the States. I eventually found a company called AVracks (avraks.co.uk) and chose their 'Rollarak'. They have a limited range of accessories but their prices and quality are good and for anyone in the UK I can recommend them - their service is also very good with quick responses and delivery.

I had to have a rack with wheels of some sort so that I could pull it from the closet for changes and maintenance. Before, with all the gear on fixed shelves, getting behind was all but impossible. I had to use a small stepladder, a mirror on a stick and a flashlight every time I needed to plug or unplug anything, and installing new gear was a nightmare. Now it is a pleasure to just wheel the rack out, rotate it through 90 degrees and work on it. I made sure that all the cables that have to leave the rack (Ethernet, speaker, sub etc) were long enough and arranged on the rack so that they 'folded' back on themselves when the rack was pushed in. Also, the switch boxes on the wall in the closet make it easy to completely remove the rack and wheel it away if required.

I also spent some time planning the wiring so I could make a neat job. Before I always tried to make a neat job but the difficulty of access meant that as things changed or got added or taken away, the wiring just got more and more disorganised.


----------



## kbarnes701

Pain Infliction said:


> Great job! @kbarnes701 I think this is the first pic that I have ever seen of any of your equipment.


Thanks! I think this is probably the first time I have ever posted a pic of the hardware. I think some of my gear will be here for ever: the Submersive subs, for example, I can never see me changing for anything else. Same with the Emo amps. And my MK S150 Left, Centre, Right speakers. The Toshiba HD-DVD player will obviously never be updated . But I have two spares in storage, bought for next to nothing off eBay. I have about 100 HD-DVD discs, all bought for almost nothing when the format died. I still get some sort of kick when I watch them - a bit like using a Laserdisc player is for some people I guess: obsolete maybe, but a great performer nonetheless.


----------



## jmass03

Does anyone here have any recommendations on what I should do here - I have a Middle Atlantic ERK 4425 that has had some component changes over the years. I really like the brushed/anodized finishes which is what we have in our family room downstairs, however those racks don't have the lip seen on the ERK series. The ERK series has a powdered coated/wrinkled lip which surrounds the faceplates. I can't decide if I should stick to purchasing the textured finish faceplates (which is how they currently are), or go with the brushed finish. 

Here's a picture of my rack as it stands: http://imgur.com/a/HydJ7#5 Disregard the horrendous wiring in the album pictures. That's been cleaned up quite nicely since.

https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...closures/erk-series-22-in-wide-enclosure.aspx

If you take a look at Holyindian's rack here (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...construction/788074-show-me-your-rack-52.html), he also has an ERK 4425, and it seems he also went with a brushed finish faceplates which looks quite good and from the pictures doesn't seem like it clashes much with the enclosure. 

Any thoughts?


----------



## Pain Infliction

I say brushed because it will match your equipment more than the powder coated will.


----------



## jjcook

kbarnes701 said:


> New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.


Great rack -- what rack are you using?


----------



## kbarnes701

jjcook said:


> Great rack -- what rack are you using?


Thanks. I am in the UK and our choice is limited by comparison with the USA. I found a good site (avracks.co.uk) and am using their Rollarak.


----------



## JoeAngelicchio

Awesome setup, kbarnes701.


----------



## mt0trip

JoeAngelicchio said:


> Elegant, very nice.


For your rack, what type of material did you use?


----------



## JoeAngelicchio

mt0trip said:


> For your rack, what type of material did you use?


This is FMZIP's rack. He'll have to chime in. l'd like to know also.


----------



## kbarnes701

JoeAngelicchio said:


> Awesome setup, kbarnes701.


Why thank you! My first time too, so I appreciate the kind remarks.


----------



## cshepard

Here's one I'm still working on. There's lots of wire management/reworking to do, and the last pics were taken before the 12 DirecTV receivers went in. I need some pics of the front as well. A Blu-ray player and a couple game systems will go in a seperate in-wall rack in the theater.

Partial Equipment List:

(1) C4 HC-800 Controller
(2) C4 16x16 Audio Matrix Switch
(4) C4 8-Zone Amplifier
(2) C4 I/O Extender
(4) C4 Wireless Music Bridge
(4) AppleTV
(1) Leaf 20x20 HDMI Matrix
(1) Wirepath 16 channel DVR
(1) WattBox 18 output camera power supply
(1) Episode UPS
(1) WattBox IP controllable power center
(1) Luxul enterprise grade dual-WAN router
(1) Luxul 24-port gigabit POE switch
(2) Luxul 24-port gigabit switch
(2) Episode subwoofer amps
(1) Yamaha RX-A2040 AVR


----------



## Neurorad

Wow, Chris, nice work. That's a crap ton of connectors. Are those Snap Strong racks? Good to work with?


----------



## kbarnes701

cshepard said:


> Here's one I'm still working on. There's lots of wire management/reworking to do, and the last pics were taken before the 12 DirecTV receivers went in. I need some pics of the front as well. A Blu-ray player and a couple game systems will go in a seperate in-wall rack in the theater.
> 
> Partial Equipment List:
> 
> (1) C4 HC-800 Controller
> (2) C4 16x16 Audio Matrix Switch
> (4) C4 8-Zone Amplifier
> (2) C4 I/O Extender
> (4) C4 Wireless Music Bridge
> (4) AppleTV
> (1) Leaf 20x20 HDMI Matrix
> (1) Wirepath 16 channel DVR
> (1) WattBox 18 output camera power supply
> (1) Episode UPS
> (1) WattBox IP controllable power center
> (1) Luxul enterprise grade dual-WAN router
> (1) Luxul 24-port gigabit POE switch
> (2) Luxul 24-port gigabit switch
> (2) Episode subwoofer amps
> (1) Yamaha RX-A2040 AVR


Beautifully wired!


----------



## cshepard

Thanks, I used 210 Planet Waves RCA connectors for the audio interconnects. Yes, those are Snap racks, and they are a pain to work with. I hate everything about them. We were asked to shave almost $20k off of our proposal for this project, and Middle Alantic racks didn't make the cut.


----------



## TMcG

cshepard said:


> Thanks, I used 210 Planet Waves RCA connectors for the audio interconnects. Yes, those are Snap racks, and they are a pain to work with. I hate everything about them. We were asked to shave almost $20k off of our proposal for this project, and Middle Alantic racks didn't make the cut.


What makes them a pain to work with vs. MA? Just curious.

Nice wiring job! I'll have a similar task for my upcoming theater / whole home distributed audio and video build.


----------



## Audiojan

I'm putting the finishing touches on my HT and I do need to get a rack to store all the stuff. Need something like 42u or great. So what's a good rack (for be built in to the false front wall) that can be had for reasonable money? Looked at MA and nice, but kind of expensive.

Guess another question is, does it really matter how nice it looks if you're having it built in? I'm planning to fill all empty spaces (not that it will be many of those) with filler plates. Looking to get it done on the cheap if at all possible… already spent way more than planned on the HT.


----------



## Pain Infliction

Audiojan said:


> I'm putting the finishing touches on my HT and I do need to get a rack to store all the stuff. Need something like 42u or great. So what's a good rack (for be built in to the false front wall) that can be had for reasonable money? Looked at MA and nice, but kind of expensive.
> 
> Guess another question is, does it really matter how nice it looks if you're having it built in? I'm planning to fill all empty spaces (not that it will be many of those) with filler plates. Looking to get it done on the cheap if at all possible… already spent way more than planned on the HT.



Look on Craigslist. Any 19" rack will work.


----------



## Neurorad

Pain Infliction said:


> Look on Craigslist. Any 19" rack will work.


Most server rack enclosures would not work really well for a built-in rack. The enclosure is designed for a door a few inches in front of the rack

I bought my server rack cheap, from university surplus. 

For a full size built-in, look for skeleton rack, 4-post rack, slim rack. For a small rack, look for a CFR - cabinet frame rack.

Server cabinets are a great affordable option for a free-standing rack. Integrated fans are usually very loud, and may need replacing.


----------



## mercracing

I will ask as I scan the pages to see what others have done. I have a full size APC rack and an HP 24 port switch with the ports in the front. How is every one running the wires from the front ports on their switches to the ports on the back of their AVR, blu ray, Xbox, PS4, bedrooms, whatever... Brush plate? Patch panel? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Neurorad

mercracing said:


> I will ask as I scan the pages to see what others have done. I have a full size APC rack and an HP 24 port switch with the ports in the front. How is every one running the wires from the front ports on their switches to the ports on the back of their AVR, blu ray, Xbox, PS4, bedrooms, whatever... Brush plate? Patch panel? Thanks in advance.


Many people mount that type of switch to the rear rails.

Another option would be to add a third set of vertical rack rails, and mount it to those, if you have the depth. They could be 6" long, or 60". The third set is good for odd components, too.

Middle atlantic offers Z-shaped brackets to recess a single component, too. They could be used in front or on the rear rails. Might be able to then hide the switch and connections behind a plate.


----------



## wkearney99

mercracing said:


> I will ask as I scan the pages to see what others have done. I have a full size APC rack and an HP 24 port switch with the ports in the front. How is every one running the wires from the front ports on their switches to the ports on the back of their AVR, blu ray, Xbox, PS4, bedrooms, whatever... Brush plate? Patch panel? Thanks in advance.


As mentioned, it's typical to mount them facing the back, or recess them. There are deeper rack 'ears' that sometimes allow that, but most of the time you'd have to install a second set of verticals, set deeper inward. But this presents problems with how the wires move around from the sockets to the gear, and potentially interferes with maintaining other gear in the rack. So putting them on the back is generally preferable (again, possibly recessed to allow for better cable sweep arc paths).


----------



## mercracing

Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.


----------



## Sir Meili

mercracing said:


> Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.


I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars. 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk


----------



## mercracing

Sir Meili said:


> I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars.
> 
> Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk


Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?


----------



## Neurorad

You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.

Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.


----------



## Swancoat

After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece 

I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.


----------



## Sir Meili

mercracing said:


> Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?


It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.

Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.

I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/36-ho...0115-my-home-theater-rack-equipment-room.html


----------



## kbarnes701

mercracing said:


> Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.


It's a bad idea to have mains and signal cables running alongside each other. Are you sure it is impossible to avoid in your setup? Do you have some photos of the rack and the gear so others can give their ideas?

Here is the back of my rack and as you can see, the power cables run down the right side, the speaker cables and HDMI cables down the left side and the interconnects down the middle, as far as is possible. and at that time I was using no cable management hardware (since rectified).


----------



## mercracing

I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one. 

















From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

mercracing said:


> I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one.
> 
> View attachment 610361
> 
> 
> View attachment 610369
> 
> 
> From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looking at the pictures I'd have thought it was possible to keep the power separate from the others, with some creative use of the lacing bars and cable routing. I made custom power cables for most of my gear, with the cable length the right length to route around the rack out of the way of the signal and speaker cables. It does take a little time, but the cost isn't much so it's worthwhile. In fact, in my cable box, I had pretty much all the cables I needed anyway - just had to modify the lengths bu shortening some.


----------



## mercracing

Most power cords are decent length. The main one is the short one. That's what I might try and lengthen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!


----------



## kbarnes701

aeneas01 said:


> wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!


Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.


----------



## aeneas01

kbarnes701 said:


> Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.


yeah, having a couple of 150+ lb amps at the top of the rack is probably not the best idea!


----------



## wraunch

I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
Middle Atlantic ERK-4020

Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.


----------



## TMcG

wraunch said:


> I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
> Middle Atlantic ERK-4020
> 
> Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.


Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.


----------



## wraunch

Do you have an example you could share? If so just PM it.


----------



## wraunch

Where is the best place to get anodized, brushed blanks? I need 3 4RU blanks.


----------



## Cokeswigga

Check with 

https://www.customavrack.com/default.aspx


----------



## cubixx222

Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you? 




kbarnes701 said:


> New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.
> 
> This is a view of the partially wired rack:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a partial view of the rear of the rack, fully wired with the speaker 'snake' etc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view of the fully wired rack shown more full-length:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the front. I apologise for the less than stellar cellphone camera images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The speaker snake goes to these junction boxes in the back of the gear closet (wired for Atmos 5.2.4):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comments, criticisms, ideas welcomed.
> 
> Gear in the rack is, from top to bottom:
> 
> 
> Denon X5200W 9 channel Atmos AVR, used in preamp mode.
> miniDSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room correction unit.
> Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Front Height L&R on-ceiling speakers.
> Emotiva XPA-200 powering Surround L&R speakers.
> Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Top Middle L&R on-ceiling speakers.
> Emotiva XPA-3 powering LCR speakers.
> Oppo 103 BD player.
> Panasonic DMP 35 BD player.
> Toshiba HD-EP35 HD-DVD player.
> Humax HD Satellite TV box.
> Behringer Feedback Destroyer.
> 
> There are various fans on top of certain items of gear, operated by thermal switches. The AVR has ample clearance at the top and also has dual cooling fans operated by thermal switches.
> 
> Speaker cables run down the left side of the rack, interconnects broadly down the middle and power cables down the right side.


----------



## kbarnes701

cubixx222 said:


> Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you?


Hi - sorry for the delay in replying to you - I have been on vacation.

I bought the power strip from the place I bought my rack (I am in the UK). Most of the places that sell racks have an 'accessory' section where you will find things like power strips. Alternatively, google rack power strips and see what you can find. The strips are designed for standard rack mounting so you don't have to buy where you bought your rack unless you want to. They are a great way to neaten the power cabling side of your rack, as they bolt to the rack sides as you can see in my photos.


----------



## fins84

TMcG said:


> Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.


You may also find a RU tape measure a benefit when stacking/laying out your rack. You can find a Middle Atlantic Rack Ruler at Amazon, I'd post a link, however, I can't post links yet....


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## robertintemple

Here's a rack I did recently. Not as pretty as I would have wanted but decent I think. Covers a theater room and distributed Audio and Video plus lighting and t-stats. All the signal/network wires run down the left side and all the power runs down the right. They never cross.


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## ThiaJay

Geoff said:


> I will tiddy up the wires when I get a chance.
> cheers



Do you only use wireless controllers for the consoles? What would you do if you wanted to play a retro console like the N64 which requires wires?


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this

http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tie...54"-|-NSF-|-Dark-Bronze.product.11738132.html

except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Neurorad said:


> You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.
> 
> Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.





Swancoat said:


> After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece
> 
> I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.





Sir Meili said:


> It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.
> 
> Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.
> 
> I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/36-ho...0115-my-home-theater-rack-equipment-room.html



How much offset do you recommend when it comes to lacing bar? What size do you use most?


----------



## Neurorad

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Neurorad said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.
> 
> Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swancoat said:
> 
> 
> 
> After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sir Meili said:
> 
> 
> 
> It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.
> 
> Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.
> 
> I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/36-ho...0115-my-home-theater-rack-equipment-room.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> How much offset do you recommend when it comes to lacing bar? What size do you use most?
Click to expand...

It depends on how far your rear vertical rack rails are from the backs of each component. If it's a shallow rack, you may be able to use -0- offset for some or all. 

Back when I bought my lacing bars, I could only find them in packs of 10 each. I think you can find singles now, though, saw some recently. Buy a few, see what you like, then buy more. Or, buy a ruler.

Not an exact science - it's mostly to keep things neat and look nice, do what you like.


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## kbarnes701

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this
> 
> http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tie...54"-|-NSF-|-Dark-Bronze.product.11738132.html
> 
> except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total


Proper racks have a lot of advantages. They allow you to install and remove gear easily since almost all gear is a standard width and a standard number of rack units high. You can install cooling which has been purpose designed ro racks. Pro gear, and quite a lot of non-Pro gear comes with rack mounting kits which enables you to save space between units (since no shelves are needed). Racks have power management and cable management incorporated in them which makes for a neater installation and also one where hum issues etc are minimised. I am sure others can think of other benefits too. And, of course, a proper rack looks really cool too, even if you only see it now and then when you go into the boot room.

There was also a special benefit of my rack in my situation: it has wheels so it can be pulled out of the gear closet easily which makes maintenance a snap. When the gear was on fixed shelves, similar to the link you posted, it was a nightmare to swap anything out or to get behind anything since there is no room in my closet to walk around to the back of the gear. 

If you are sure you will never swap anything out or never change anything or need to get access to the gear easily and safely, then shelving of the sort you mentioned can be used successfully - but a proper rack will make life so much easier in the long run. When you consider the cost of a good rack it isn't much in the context of all you spend on your HT over the years - and the rack will literally last you for ever.

You can read about how I set up my rack here if you are interested.


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## wkearney99

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this
> http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tie...54"-|-NSF-|-Dark-Bronze.product.11738132.html
> except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total


Space utilization is one thing, device accessibility is another. I've got a bunch of those wire shelves for storage. They good but they do lead to a problem with a lot of wasted space when items don't fully maximize the area. Boxes that are either too narrow/wide, tall/short or their depth become a problem. That and the wires don't lend themselves well to moving stuff around if it has feet on it. 

Also consider you want the gear put in this rack to remain reliably set up. Not wedged in along with a lot of other junk being stored. Everything tucked into it's own rack can help avoid disasters like someone storing liquids on the shelving and having it spill down into expensive AV gear. Or cables getting disconnected because someone hung a coat hanger on it.


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## rms8

kbarnes701 said:


> ....If you are sure you will never swap anything out or never change anything or need to get access to the gear easily and safely, then shelving of the sort you mentioned can be used successfully - but a proper rack will make life so much easier in the long run. When you consider the cost of a good rack it isn't much in the context of all you spend on your HT over the years - and the rack will literally last you for ever.


.



+1 --- Exactly what he said.

You could even get the inexpensive shelving as a temp solution until you find a great deal on *craigslist *!!!! 



.


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## taxman48

I don't have any intention (or funds) to purchase a MidAtlantic rack. I was wondering if I can use the laces to tidy up the cables. Can I drill holes in rack supports and screw laces in ? I have a 6 shelf Sanus rack now, which holds a 5 disc cd player, Elite receiver, Monster power center, PS3 BD player and Marantz single cd player. On top I have a monitor for watching tv while on computer..thanks in advance for any replies..


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## eng-399

Here's my rack...I'm not finished yet with upgrades but as of today this is what it looks like.








I still have to clean up some wires.


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## Pain Infliction

@eng-399 do you have any pics of your theater? Your rack looks great.


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## eng-399

Pain Infliction said:


> @eng-399 do you have any pics of your theater? Your rack looks great.


Yes I do and thanks!!! The granite for the back bar comes this Friday at 9am so please don't mind the empty counter back there. The entire HT room and basement was all done by me except the drywall and trim work I just don't have the time with work and kids. The next post will be pictures. I work in the trades so building and fabricating things come easy.


----------



## eng-399

The front looks a little different now I moved things around but same speakers and subs up there it looks more uniform now.








Looking on adding 2 more 18's down there for nearfield bass which would bring me to 6 18's and doing Atmos to. It's been a lot of work but the room sounds good. Sub boxes are tuned to 16hz at 20 cubic feet each. Ran rew in the room and it's flat all the way down to 10hz.


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## Pain Infliction

Looks great! Is your theater in a basement or upstairs on a second floor? You will love the nearfiled!


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## TMcG

Pain Infliction said:


> Looks great! Is your theater in a basement or upstairs on a second floor? You will love the nearfiled!


How 'near' does 'nearfied' need to be to be 'near'?  Serious question, because I'm considering it.


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## Pain Infliction

TMcG said:


> How 'near' does 'nearfied' need to be to be 'near'?  Serious question, because I'm considering it.



I have been in several conversations about this and the true answer is within 12 inches of your head. Now, that is really not practical nor would I want a sub that close to my head. Other people say within 3'. My nearfiled subs are about 3-4" behind my seats and do a great job. I am also on a second floor and that makes the experience a lot better imo.

Eq'ing nearfield subs is subjective. I personally tune them with a giant house curve from 5hz sloping down the rest of the bandwidth because I don't need the upper end of the bandwidth that close to me. I think it makes a perfectly seamless response with the rest of my subs in my theater and I have tried many ways and hours and hours of tuning my theater. Right now I am so happy with the way my theater sounds. I watch Jupiter Ascending last night, and that movie beat me up! The audio mix was fantastic and the bass was really intense. The movie sucked IMO, but that audio track made it tolerable.


----------



## eng-399

Pain Infliction said:


> Looks great! Is your theater in a basement or upstairs on a second floor? You will love the nearfiled!



The room is in the basement. 3 of the walls are surrounded by the concrete. The room is 31 feet long and the width of the room is narrow at 12.5 feet were the screen is then it opens up another 1.5 feet then again in the back another 1.5 feet weird shaped room but it works for me. The ceiling drywalled is 8'6". The bass is crazy loud and when your in the back of the room your pants shake when it's turned up like papalocks old HT room with his 16 18's in there. Looking at Buttkickers when the wife and kids are down there. Lots of fun down there.


----------



## ArmyMan

*Is this MA rack good for HT?*

I found this MA rack on craigslist but haven't offered for it yet.
Middle Atlantic Products
Model: PTRK-2726
56" x 22.5 x 26
Most of the MA racks here in the thread are some other series, ERK and such.
I will start with an AVR and a TiVo, and a BD player of course. Maybe later something like a Lumagen or such.
So, not much equipment (don't know enough yet!)

What do you think?
Paul


----------



## Axel

eng-399 said:


> The room is in the basement. 3 of the walls are surrounded by the concrete. The room is 31 feet long and the width of the room is narrow at 12.5 feet were the screen is then it opens up another 1.5 feet then again in the back another 1.5 feet weird shaped room but it works for me. The ceiling drywalled is 8'6". The bass is crazy loud and when your in the back of the room your pants shake when it's turned up like papalocks old HT room with his 16 18's in there. Looking at Buttkickers when the wife and kids are down there. Lots of fun down there.


eng-399;

That's one great looking HT! Congrats!

I really like the carpet you used. May I ask what brand/model/type it is, where you got it from, and how much a sqft is?

Thanks!
_____
Axel


----------



## eng-399

Axel said:


> eng-399;
> 
> That's one great looking HT! Congrats!
> 
> I really like the carpet you used. May I ask what brand/model/type it is, where you got it from, and how much a sqft is?
> 
> Thanks!
> _____
> Axel



I think I paid around 2,000$ with installation with the best padding I'll have to look at the receipt and get back to you tonight on how much per sq feet they charged. The place was Olsen rug and carpet in Naperville Il. The name of the carpet is dark room here's a picture. This was the hardest thing to pick







out in the room! I spend days looking at other people's rooms and asking them about there carpet. I hope this helps you with your Choice. 

One thing I will add is a big thanks to my wife who let me pick out everything a-z in this room with no arguments. The only trade off was the rest of the basement she picked out everything else.


----------



## Axel

Mohawk Floorscapes - Dark Room #117 .... got it!
(Amazing that you have pictures of the display - very helpful!)

With that I should be able to find a local source in my area.

Thanks!
_____
Axel


----------



## eng-399

Another tip guys if ordering pro audio amps and other gear including audio rack pieces go to sweetwater.com and ask for a better price they always have gone down in price for me.


----------



## lovingdvd

eng-399 said:


>


Great looking room! What chairs are those? Looks like maybe Palliser Media? How do you like them and what material/color is that? Seems to have a matte finish (which is what I am looking for).


----------



## lovingdvd

TMcG said:


> How 'near' does 'nearfied' need to be to be 'near'?  Serious question, because I'm considering it.


As near as possible and practical, literally. The challenge is that typically one cannot have a large subwoofer right behind them for aesthetic or layout reasons. Except in some cases if you sit in the last row and can put a sub behind that, that can work well. An alternative is to put "balancing" subs in-wall to the left and/or right of the MLP, and possibly other locations. This can work well especially if you have "fake walls" such as for speakers and room treatments.


----------



## eng-399

lovingdvd said:


> Great looking room! What chairs are those? Looks like maybe Palliser Media? How do you like them and what material/color is that? Seems to have a matte finish (which is what I am looking for).


Thanks for the kind words. I used rtheaters.com this company has great customer service to. I can't say enough about them. I bought these during the last holiday sale with 50$ off per seat which was around 3,600 for all 7 shipped to my front door. I'll post the link below of the thread it has lot's of pictures in it to. Happy 4th guys hope everyone had a great and safe day!


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/32-th...sories/2006866-ht-room-seating-ready-buy.html


----------



## hanesian

Outstanding room, eng-399! Well done.

But for those with lots of detailed questions, let's keep this thread on topic - show me your rack - and move the detailed build questions to private messages or another subforum, please. There are two dedicated forums to share and discuss build details.

Thanks.


----------



## smiffercity

*media closet underneath the basement stairs*

Big fan of the "Show me your RACK" thread and thought I would share my rack pictures from my recent basement remodel. 

Basically, I converted a storage closet underneath the stairwell into a media closet. From the pictures you'll notice that my tv (and maybe a future projector) hangs on the wall in front of the new media closet. On the same wall that my tv is mounted, I built an in-wall 15u rack using raxess rack rails and rackmount shelves. The back of the rack is completely accessible from the new media closet. In order for the media closet to service the whole house, I also ran new low-voltage wiring (cat6, RG6, indoor/outdoor speaker, and whole-house HDMI runs) throughout the entire house and terminated these bundles in the media closet using a 24-port gigabit switch and patch panel rack-mounted to the wall. Both of the cable boxes in my house are also stored in the media closet which I can access anywhere by using the NextGen RF remote control extender (amazing device!), a 4k HDMI splitter, and lengthy HDMI cables (some powered). I even ran an HDMI cord to my back patio! I saved a lot of money by completing all of the av-related design, wiring, and construction myself. I must admit that prior to this remodel, I had never seen or heard of an AV rackmount and also had no prior experience with terminating low-voltage wiring. I'm a big fan of simple design and realized that this closet would be the perfect central location to hide my wiring. Lucky for me, during my initial planning I stumbled upon this thread where I learned more about rackmount solution options/ideas. Reading these threads built up my confidence to create something custom, clean, functional, and unique. Overall, I tried to be as budget minded as possible, but wanted something that would be useful for the foreseeable future. 

Now that my rack build is finished, I'm anxious to start upgrading my other av components (tv, 4k receiver, speakers, projector, etc.). I'm also excited to hear feedback since no one other than my cable guy has any clue what any of this stuff is! If the reviews are positive, I might even show my wife to prove this was all worth it  

BTW... This is my first post on AVS Forums so hopefully the pictures have loaded correctly. Thanks again for the inspiration!!!


----------



## wkearney99

Nice job. My thought is find a way to make sure that the closet aspect of that space doesn't end up causing problems for your gear. Like storing the vacuum in there and banging up against the gear. Or someone hanging coat hangers from your wires.


----------



## popalock

smiffercity said:


> Big fan of the "Show me your RACK" thread and thought I would share my rack pictures from my recent basement remodel.
> 
> Now that my rack build is finished, I'm anxious to start upgrading my other av components (tv, 4k receiver, speakers, projector, etc.). I'm also excited to hear feedback since no one other than my cable guy has any clue what any of this stuff is! If the reviews are positive, I might even show my wife to prove this was all worth it
> 
> BTW... This is my first post on AVS Forums so hopefully the pictures have loaded correctly. Thanks again for the inspiration!!!


I liked your post simply because of the Ninja 64 epicness...


----------



## Pain Infliction

smiffercity said:


> Big fan of the "Show me your RACK" thread and thought I would share my rack pictures from my recent basement remodel.
> 
> Basically, I converted a storage closet underneath the stairwell into a media closet. From the pictures you'll notice that my tv (and maybe a future projector) hangs on the wall in front of the new media closet. On the same wall that my tv is mounted, I built an in-wall 15u rack using raxess rack rails and rackmount shelves. The back of the rack is completely accessible from the new media closet. In order for the media closet to service the whole house, I also ran new low-voltage wiring (cat6, RG6, indoor/outdoor speaker, and whole-house HDMI runs) throughout the entire house and terminated these bundles in the media closet using a 24-port gigabit switch and patch panel rack-mounted to the wall. Both of the cable boxes in my house are also stored in the media closet which I can access anywhere by using the NextGen RF remote control extender (amazing device!), a 4k HDMI splitter, and lengthy HDMI cables (some powered). I even ran an HDMI cord to my back patio! I saved a lot of money by completing all of the av-related design, wiring, and construction myself. I must admit that prior to this remodel, I had never seen or heard of an AV rackmount and also had no prior experience with terminating low-voltage wiring. I'm a big fan of simple design and realized that this closet would be the perfect central location to hide my wiring. Lucky for me, during my initial planning I stumbled upon this thread where I learned more about rackmount solution options/ideas. Reading these threads built up my confidence to create something custom, clean, functional, and unique. Overall, I tried to be as budget minded as possible, but wanted something that would be useful for the foreseeable future.
> 
> Now that my rack build is finished, I'm anxious to start upgrading my other av components (tv, 4k receiver, speakers, projector, etc.). I'm also excited to hear feedback since no one other than my cable guy has any clue what any of this stuff is! If the reviews are positive, I might even show my wife to prove this was all worth it
> 
> BTW... This is my first post on AVS Forums so hopefully the pictures have loaded correctly. Thanks again for the inspiration!!!



Looks very clean! How is that HDMI splitter? Do you have any issues with it at all?


----------



## rms8

smiffercity said:


> Now that my rack build is finished, I'm anxious to start upgrading my other av components (tv, 4k receiver, speakers, projector, etc.). I'm also excited to hear feedback since no one other than my cable guy has any clue what any of this stuff is! If the reviews are positive, I might even show my wife to prove this was all worth it
> 
> BTW... This is my first post on AVS Forums so hopefully the pictures have loaded correctly. Thanks again for the inspiration!!!



Stairwells ALWAYS make great places for such a variety of things!!!

Your implementation is first rate! Great idea.


.


----------



## Glimmie

*Latest HT Upgrade:*

Here is my equipment room as of today. Went from DVHS tape/disk based to all media server based.
50 TB of online storage.


----------



## Mr47

Ok, that's it, Glimmie wins. Shows over people! Damn do I feel inadequate now, that stuff is gorgeous!


----------



## TMcG

Glimmie said:


> Here is my equipment room as of today. Went from DVHS tape/disk based to all media server based.
> 50 TB of online storage.


Nice! Any pics of the wiring? 

EDIT - OK, I only recognize about 10 pieces of equipment in those four racks...to my untrained eye it looks like you are into broadcast equipment of some sort. What is all that stuff???


----------



## kbarnes701

Glimmie said:


> Here is my equipment room as of today. Went from DVHS tape/disk based to all media server based.
> 50 TB of online storage.


OMG.  I assume it doesn’t all run off one mains socket?  And that the room is heavily air-conditioned and temperature controlled. How do you access the back of the gear for maintenance etc? Any photos of the back?


----------



## Pain Infliction

I want to see the theater that is for!


----------



## kbarnes701

Pain Infliction said:


> I want to see the theater that is for!


Theater? There's a _theater_ as well? I thought it was all to power that screen shown in the photo


----------



## rms8

Glimmie said:


> Here is my equipment room as of today. Went from DVHS tape/disk based to all media server based.
> 50 TB of online storage.



Where's the bathroom?

Is that HW for your whole neighborhood? 


.


----------



## taxman48

Beautiful, any of that equipment make coffee?


----------



## JohnstownFlood

Hi all, thank you for the inspiration in your photos! As I'm building my HT I was originally thinking of getting a stand-alone rack, but now am leaning more towards a framed in doorway with rack rails. I will have access to the rear, and there's plenty of room for a rack, but after seeing some of these photos, I think that I'll be able to get a cleaner end aesthetic by using the rails.

So...my question is if anyone here uses a pull-out drawer in their racks? The one piece of equipment that has me scratching my head over making work in a rack is my record player. It is 17" wide. Can anyone recommend a drawer type rack thingy that would work with only the two rack rails? Most I'm seeing are four post. I can weigh my player but it can't be more than 25lbs. 

The other problem to solve is how far out the drawer can extend. My thought was that when the plastic cover on the player was closed, it would only take up about 4U. Then when I want to switch out a record, I'd extend the drawer and lift open the cover. If the drawer doesn't extend enough, perhaps the dust cover would hit the next thing up in the rack. I guess I could leave a little more space there...just thinking out loud now...

Thanks much.


----------



## Tedd

Glimmie, I gather there's a HD-SDI video chain in there. Care to elaborate what that is?


----------



## rms8

JohnstownFlood said:


> So...my question is if anyone here uses a pull-out drawer in their racks? The one piece of equipment that has me scratching my head over making work in a rack is my record player. It is 17" wide. Can anyone recommend a drawer type rack thingy that would work with only the two rack rails? Most I'm seeing are four post. I can weigh my player but it can't be more than 25lbs.



Don't think you're going to find a slide out tray option which does NOT use 4 attachment points. Won't work any other way. I put one in *my rack *for this exact same reason. I put a slide out drawer (2U) in the middle for remotes and what-not.

Where ever you end up installing the turntable you could simply build something on the rear side to support the rails for the slide out tray.


.


----------



## Waterboy77

There do appear to be some front mount only drawers out there but the depth could be an issue for you as the ones that I have seen are about 14-15".
One thought is to customize a standard shelf and mount full extension slides
My only concerns would be the stress on the shelf "ears" when fully extended (maybe a 4U shelf so there is more front "ear" support) and how much they stick out the back to achieve the extension you want


----------



## TMcG

JohnstownFlood said:


> Hi all, thank you for the inspiration in your photos! As I'm building my HT I was originally thinking of getting a stand-alone rack, but now am leaning more towards a framed in doorway with rack rails. I will have access to the rear, and there's plenty of room for a rack, but after seeing some of these photos, I think that I'll be able to get a cleaner end aesthetic by using the rails.
> 
> So...my question is if anyone here uses a pull-out drawer in their racks? The one piece of equipment that has me scratching my head over making work in a rack is my record player. It is 17" wide. Can anyone recommend a drawer type rack thingy that would work with only the two rack rails? Most I'm seeing are four post. I can weigh my player but it can't be more than 25lbs.
> 
> The other problem to solve is how far out the drawer can extend. My thought was that when the plastic cover on the player was closed, it would only take up about 4U. Then when I want to switch out a record, I'd extend the drawer and lift open the cover. If the drawer doesn't extend enough, perhaps the dust cover would hit the next thing up in the rack. I guess I could leave a little more space there...just thinking out loud now...
> 
> Thanks much.


They make 1U sliding shelves that fully extend for such a situation, but they require rear support - ideally rack rails. But since you wouldn't have rear rack rails there are PLENTY of ways to support the rear of this equipment, such as a couple eye rings attached with coated picture hanging wire lasso'd underneath your gear. Affix the eyelets to structure where you can...even if it's at 45 degrees going back to the same structure your rack rails are attached.

The drawers have a solid top, FYI.


----------



## rms8

TMcG said:


> They make 1U sliding shelves that fully extend for such a situation, but they require rear support - ideally rack rails. But since you wouldn't have rear rack rails there are PLENTY of ways to support the rear of this equipment, such as a couple eye rings attached with coated picture hanging wire lasso'd underneath your gear. Affix the eyelets to structure where you can...even if it's at 45 degrees going back to the same structure your rack rails are attached.
> 
> The drawers have a solid top, FYI.



Similar to what I said 2 post above....


rms8 said:


> Don't think you're going to find a slide out tray option which does NOT use 4 attachment points. Won't work any other way. I put one in *my rack *for this exact same reason. I put a slide out drawer (2U) in the middle for remotes and what-not.
> 
> Where ever you end up installing the turntable you could simply build something on the rear side to support the rails for the slide out tray.


I even used a 2nd slide out tray on the rear of my rack for the media server. It (obviously) slides out from the back so I can access the rear connections of the server w/out necessitating pulling the whole PC out of the rack. That case is roughly 30lbs. Eight 4Tb HDD will add a lot of weight real quick.


.


----------



## Glimmie

Tedd said:


> Glimmie, I gather there's a HD-SDI video chain in there. Care to elaborate what that is?


Yes, there is an 8x8 HDSDI matrix switch among others. The only HDMI utilized is a final HDSDI to HDMI converter through a Darbee to the projector. HDCP is not a problem, I use Jriver with an HDSDI Nvidia card (FX3800-SDI).

*Power:*

6kw 60-0-60volt balanced power feed for HT plus all other house media equipment. House has dedicated balanced power circuits installed where needed.

Room addition has a 240v/70a sub panel for HVAC, lighting and a 30a 120v feed for the 3kva UPS that handles the media servers and storage RAIDs.

To all, I submitted for HTotM. More pics and information to follow.


----------



## Tedd

THANK YOU for that, Glimmie! 


Looking forward to seeing more details.


----------



## JohnstownFlood

andyboy said:


> Here's my progress for my rack system. Had a long closet at the back of my media room. It had two doors on each side. I framed one door to place the rack. Still in progress. And oh...I'm not pro at all! Learned a lot by doing research on here and other sites. This site has been the most helpful.



...and this post made the light bulb turn on over my nugget. This is exactly what I need to do / will do. Thank you internet stranger from many years ago!


----------



## GreySkies

Glimmie said:


> ... with an HDSDI Nvidia card (FX3800-SDI).
> ...
> To all, I submitted for HTotM. More pics and information to follow.


Holy Moly!  Talk about over-kill! I love it!

Looking forward to seeing this as HTofM!


----------



## pgwalsh

Glimmie said:


> Here is my equipment room as of today. Went from DVHS tape/disk based to all media server based.
> 50 TB of online storage.


Two words: Holy Sheep! 

I hope you wear your _Mad Scientist_ coat when you go in there.


----------



## kbarnes701

Revisions to my rack.

I have just upgraded my system to an Atmos 7.2.4 setup (from the previous 5.2.4 setup) and this necessitated an additional 2 channel amp in the rack. I took the opportunity to totally review the rack layout and the result is below. If anyone wants to see how it was laid out before, then this post has the photos.










From top to bottom, the gear in the rack is:

1. A 1RU light unit which can only just be seen in my crappy photo. It has three intensity settings and is useful when changing Blurays etc.

2. A 2RU vented blanking panel. This allows for better ventilation (the AVR has dual cooling fans on top of it) and also allows for future expansion if I move up to a larger AVR or processor. I can replace the 2RU vented blanking panel with a 1RU panel to allow for the taller AVR.

3. My Denon X5200W AVR.

4. A 1RU vented blanking panel. This is really there to create a space for an additional miniDSP DDRC-88A unit to allow Dirac Live EQ of the 4 overhead Atmos speakers (see below).

5. A miniDSP DDRC-88A unit which runs Dirac Live room EQ.

6. Darbee Custom Install version of the Darbee processor.

7. A 2RU blanking panel to allow for future expansion.

8. 2 blank spacer units.

9. Toshiba HD-DVD player (I have about 100 movies on HD-DVD, a result of backing the wrong horse in the HD disc race.)

10. Sony BDP-S470 Blu-ray player. My 'backup' player.

11. Oppo 103 - my main Blu-ray player.

12. A double spacer blank.

13. Humax Satellite TV Box.

14. A double spacer blank.

15. A 1 RU vented blanking panel to allow for better ventilation of the Emotiva UPA-2 amp below it.

16. Emotiva UPA-2 power amp - powers the front overhead pair of Atmos speakers.

17. Emotiva UPA-2 power amp - powers the rear overhead pair of Atmos speakers.

18. A 2 space blanking panel.

19. A 1 RU vented blanking panel to allow for better ventilation of the Emotiva XPA-200 amp below it.

20. Emotiva UPA-2 power amp - powers the rear surround speakers.

21. Emotiva XPA-200 power amp - powers the surround speakers.

22. A 2 space blanking panel.

23. A 1 RU vented blanking panel to allow for better ventilation of the Emotiva XPA-3 amp below it.

24. Emotiva XPA-3 power amp - powers the Left, Center, Right speakers.

25. A 2 space blanking panel.

26. A 2RU blanking panel to create a space at the bottom of the rack for a power strip to accommodate wall warts which protrude too far to use the vertical power strip on the back of the rack.


----------



## Brent A

^^^^

Very nice. What are you using for shelves? 

I am currently using homemade shelving on mine and it has worked verywell for my budget. My original plan was to go with all RSH faceplate shelves and I have purchased a few of the RSH shelves and faceplates as I can afford to. They give a nice finished look for odd shaped components like the PS3, but for full-width components such as the AVR, I am not feeling the need to have faceplates and I like the look you have achieved with the spacer and vented blanks. I would also imagine that approach would be less expensive than going the all RSH route. 

I’m assuming you are using a shelf that attaches to the sides of the rails and that allows you to use the thinner 1U and 2U blanks to hide the shelves front edge?


----------



## JohnstownFlood

Question for folks that have put together MA Slim-5s:

When all assembled, is it OK for the base to not be perfectly flat? Mine wobbles a bit...maybe off by a 8th of an inch or less, but that translates to about an inch of movement at the top.

I guess I'm assuming that once I secure it to a plywood base, and ensure that it is plumb, that the slightly imperfect base won't matter.

If it is an issue that needs corrected...how best to do that? I followed the directions to a T, by laying it on a flat surface before tightening the nuts.

Thanks again for all the help, and inspiration!


----------



## markrubin

JohnstownFlood said:


> Question for folks that have put together MA Slim-5s:
> 
> When all assembled, is it OK for the base to not be perfectly flat? Mine wobbles a bit...maybe off by a 8th of an inch or less, but that translates to about an inch of movement at the top.
> 
> I guess I'm assuming that once I secure it to a plywood base, and ensure that it is plumb, that the slightly imperfect base won't matter.
> 
> If it is an issue that needs corrected...how best to do that? I followed the directions to a T, by laying it on a flat surface before tightening the nuts.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help, and inspiration!


I had a similar issue: my Slim 5 sits on a wood platform in a studded opening so it is flush with the wall: the top of the rack could sway side to side within the clearance of the studs about 1/2 inch

First I used wood screws to secure the rack to the studs on each side, but when I walked by it, I heard a creak which was coming from the rack moving on the screws
next I removed the screws and used two Vibrapod rubber isolators: one on each side between the rack and the stud: they fit pretty snug and work: the rack does not sway and there is no creak when I walk by


----------



## JohnstownFlood

markrubin said:


> I had a similar issue: my Slim 5 sits on a wood platform in a studded opening so it is flush with the wall: the top of the rack could sway side to side within the clearance of the studs about 1/2 inch
> 
> First I used wood screws to secure the rack to the studs on each side, but when I walked by it, I heard a creak which was coming from the rack moving on the screws
> next I removed the screws and used two Vibrapod rubber isolators: one on each side between the rack and the stud: they fit pretty snug and work: the rack does not sway and there is no creak when I walk by


Awesome, thanks...this gives me some ideas!


----------



## optimatez

http://imgur.com/a/Nl87U

Ours is at the bottom part of that link, there is a denonx4000 in it now not pictured.


----------



## Pain Infliction

optimatez said:


> http://imgur.com/a/Nl87U
> 
> Ours is at the bottom part of that link, there is a denonx4000 in it now not pictured.


I really like everything you did to get all computers on your house in one rack. It is like a central command station. Similar to what I have with my AV closet, but not everything in my house is in one spot like I want to it be.


----------



## kbarnes701

Brent A said:


> ^^^^
> 
> Very nice. What are you using for shelves?
> 
> I am currently using homemade shelving on mine and it has worked verywell for my budget. My original plan was to go with all RSH faceplate shelves and I have purchased a few of the RSH shelves and faceplates as I can afford to. They give a nice finished look for odd shaped components like the PS3, but for full-width components such as the AVR, I am not feeling the need to have faceplates and I like the look you have achieved with the spacer and vented blanks. I would also imagine that approach would be less expensive than going the all RSH route.
> 
> I’m assuming you are using a shelf that attaches to the sides of the rails and that allows you to use the thinner 1U and 2U blanks to hide the shelves front edge?


Your assumption is correct. The shelves were from the same people the rack was from (avracks.co.uk) here in the UK.


----------



## TMcG

JohnstownFlood said:


> Question for folks that have put together MA Slim-5s:
> 
> When all assembled, is it OK for the base to not be perfectly flat? Mine wobbles a bit...maybe off by a 8th of an inch or less, but that translates to about an inch of movement at the top.
> 
> I guess I'm assuming that once I secure it to a plywood base, and ensure that it is plumb, that the slightly imperfect base won't matter.
> 
> If it is an issue that needs corrected...how best to do that? I followed the directions to a T, by laying it on a flat surface before tightening the nuts.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help, and inspiration!


Skip the Vibrapods and anything similar as it's a band aid approach.

Middle Atlantic makes leveling feet that attach to all racks and is the proper way to level things up: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...JHvrccCFdUUHwodNFcMGg&is=REG&m=Y&Q=&A=details

If you want the quick and dirty method, use shims starting from the inside of the rack to each of the four corners. Secure with screws into the wood base. I use a finishing washer to help spread the load and increase the clamping power of the screw.

Either of these two methods will give you a perfect foundation for your rack vs. trying to control swaying.


----------



## markrubin

TMcG

my rack is sitting on the MA pull out base (the pull out feature never worked for me) so that contributes to the swaying: I would hate to remove the whole rack at this point (been there 15 years)

good idea about the shims and hardware: I admit the Vibrapods are a temporary fix


----------



## JohnstownFlood

TMcG said:


> Skip the Vibrapods and anything similar as it's a band aid approach.
> 
> Middle Atlantic makes leveling feet that attach to all racks and is the proper way to level things up: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...JHvrccCFdUUHwodNFcMGg&is=REG&m=Y&Q=&A=details
> 
> If you want the quick and dirty method, use shims starting from the inside of the rack to each of the four corners. Secure with screws into the wood base. I use a finishing washer to help spread the load and increase the clamping power of the screw.
> 
> Either of these two methods will give you a perfect foundation for your rack vs. trying to control swaying.


Awesome, yeah I have no idea why I wasn't even thinking about leveling feet. They're on their way to my house now.

I'm just glad no one is telling me that I need to loosen all the nuts and try to square it up on the ground again. Seems like a little bit of play is to be expected with this rack.

Thanks!


----------



## nitro28

SCORE! I found a Middle Atlantic Audio Rack on Craigslist today and snagged it for $100. It has a ton of the blanks in already which will save me quite a bit of money. I am thinking of trying to cut a few of the blanks to be trim around my equipment. Anyone have any experience with a clean way to cut this thin metal where it still looks good? I am thinking a jig saw might not work overly well.

Also, the guy I got this from has another one if anyone is in the Omaha area and needs a sweet rack. This is the full 42U rack so its about 78" tall and 19" deep.

Its going to be sunken into the wall on the left of this picture. The hole on the right is going to be an access panel to get to the back of it.


----------



## nitro28

SCORE! I found a Middle Atlantic Audio Rack on Craigslist today and snagged it for $100. It has a ton of the blanks in already which will save me quite a bit of money. I am thinking of trying to cut a few of the blanks to be trim around my equipment. Anyone have any experience with a clean way to cut this thin metal where it still looks good? I am thinking a jig saw might not work overly well.

Also, the guy I got this from has another one if anyone is in the Omaha area and needs a sweet rack. This is the full 42U rack so its about 78" tall and 19" deep.

Its going to be sunken into the wall on the left of this picture. The hole on the right is going to be an access panel to get to the back of it.


----------



## Pain Infliction

nitro28 said:


> SCORE! I found a Middle Atlantic Audio Rack on Craigslist today and snagged it for $100. It has a ton of the blanks in already which will save me quite a bit of money. I am thinking of trying to cut a few of the blanks to be trim around my equipment. Anyone have any experience with a clean way to cut this thin metal where it still looks good? I am thinking a jig saw might not work overly well.
> 
> Also, the guy I got this from has another one if anyone is in the Omaha area and needs a sweet rack. This is the full 42U rack so its about 78" tall and 19" deep.




That is a steal! I just lost a deal on a 82U MA rack for $50 on craigslist because it was raining and late and didn't want to drive across Houston to get it. Contacted them this morning and it was sold. Damn! I didn't really need it but that is something that you can't pass up. I could either put all my devices from my other two racks into one. or I could sell it for profit.


----------



## kbarnes701

nitro28 said:


> SCORE! I found a Middle Atlantic Audio Rack on Craigslist today and snagged it for $100. It has a ton of the blanks in already which will save me quite a bit of money. I am thinking of trying to cut a few of the blanks to be trim around my equipment. Anyone have any experience with a clean way to cut this thin metal where it still looks good? I am thinking a jig saw might not work overly well.


Outstanding price! I would hesitate to cut the blanks - they are done commercially using laser cutting. Nothing you can do at home is likely to give a great result IMO. Just use shelves and stand the gear centrally on the shelf and it will look just fine. BTW your rack cost about a tenth the price of my similar rack, so great job there!!


----------



## Glimmie

kbarnes701 said:


> Outstanding price! I would hesitate to cut the blanks - they are done commercially using laser cutting. Nothing you can do at home is likely to give a great result IMO. Just use shelves and stand the gear centrally on the shelf and it will look just fine. BTW your rack cost about a tenth the price of my similar rack, so great job there!!


If he insists on using the blanks:

DIY:
1) Cover with 2 layers of masking tape. 
2) Use a good quality jig saw with a fine 32TPI metal blade.
3) Keep the shoe of the saw free of metal burrs. The double masking tape will help but they can still poke through and scratch.
4) Alternately you can cut out the hole from the back side but still cover the front with two layers of tape.

Better Idea:
1) Find a local machine shop with a mill, laser, or water jet cutter.


----------



## Tedd

Some excepts from YW84U's DIY face plates shows that cutting holds some promise.... 


Likely not much of a problem if you aren't attached to the factory finish. 


BTW, nice find. 


edit: Found the thread http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/990179-diy-v-rack.html
post 19 has details....


----------



## nitro28

Thanks. I kept finding computer racks which were just too deep for my application, so finding an actual audio rack, let alone a nice one was a surprise. Hopefully someone on here is from the area and needs the other one he has. He said he would sell the other one for $75 since this one had a Stewart amp still attached to it.


----------



## grendelrt

Need some help guys, I have an Outlaw 7500 on the way and need a shelf for it for my rack. Dimensions (W x H x D): 17.2 x 7.75 with feet x 18 (inches),Weight: 80 (lbs). Any advice on a shelf or is MidAtlantic custom my only choice? I would prefer just a normal shelf because the midatlantic will be prob be super expensive. I looked it up on their site and found this part number RSH4A5X OUTLAW MODEL7500, how do you order from them?


----------



## Pain Infliction

grendelrt said:


> Need some help guys, I have an Outlaw 7500 on the way and need a shelf for it for my rack. Dimensions (W x H x D): 17.2 x 7.75 with feet x 18 (inches),Weight: 80 (lbs). Any advice on a shelf or is MidAtlantic custom my only choice? I would prefer just a normal shelf because the midatlantic will be prob be super expensive. I looked it up on their site and found this part number RSH4A5X OUTLAW MODEL7500, how do you order from them?


You can't unless you are an authorized dealer. Go to https://www.customavrack.com/ 
Or you can just order a 19" shelf and set you amp on it. I Would just see if Outlaw has rack mounting ears for your amp. That would be the best way and it would save you space in your rack.


----------



## grendelrt

Pain Infliction said:


> You can't unless you are an authorized dealer. Go to https://www.customavrack.com/
> Or you can just order a 19" shelf and set you amp on it. I Would just see if Outlaw has rack mounting ears for your amp. That would be the best way and it would save you space in your rack.


From what I read outlaw doesn't do any rack mounting. Any advice the best place to order a 18/19" deep shelf, the largest at customavrack is only 16inches from what I see.
Edit: would this be an option? http://www.customavrack.com/Product...oint-vented-adjustable-server-rack-shelf.aspx


----------



## Pain Infliction

grendelrt said:


> From what I read outlaw doesn't do any rack mounting. Any advice the best place to order a 18/19" deep shelf, the largest at customavrack is only 16inches from what I see.
> Edit: would this be an option? http://www.customavrack.com/Product...oint-vented-adjustable-server-rack-shelf.aspx


If you can bolt it to the front and back it will work. Why not use a shelf and let the back of the amp hang off a little? That would make your search so much easier.


----------



## markrubin

grendelrt said:


> From what I read outlaw doesn't do any rack mounting. Any advice the best place to order a 18/19" deep shelf, the largest at customavrack is only 16inches from what I see.
> Edit: would this be an option? http://www.customavrack.com/Product...oint-vented-adjustable-server-rack-shelf.aspx


I have a Middle Atlantic RSH-4A for the Outlaw 7500: it is the new ventilated design: PM sent

the Outlaw is so heavy I used a support under the back of the rackshelf to the bottom of the rack for stability


----------



## rms8

grendelrt said:


> From what I read outlaw doesn't do any rack mounting. Any advice the best place to order a 18/19" deep shelf, the largest at customavrack is only 16inches from what I see.
> Edit: would this be an option? http://www.customavrack.com/Product...oint-vented-adjustable-server-rack-shelf.aspx



I went with this from MA.

It supports 250lbs. I had to get it for my Sherbourn PA7-350 which tips the scales at 105lbs !!!!!!


.


----------



## grendelrt

Thanks for the replies guys, Mark pmd you back. 

Edit:
Mark is sending me the rack at no cost, super generous, thanks everyone for the help. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## BllDo

rms8 said:


> I went with this from MA.
> 
> It supports 250lbs. I had to get it for my Sherbourn PA7-350 which tips the scales at 105lbs !!!!!!
> 
> 
> .


Why didn't you use the rack ears that came with it?


----------



## rms8

BllDo said:


> Why didn't you use the rack ears that came with it?


I did.

But the amp has no REAR support, and 105lbs is simply too much weight to be supported from the front only.


.


----------



## BllDo

I've just been using the rack ears. Works fine.


----------



## rms8

BllDo said:


> I've just been using the rack ears. Works fine.


*You might want to reconsider that if you are relying on ears alone and your device is anything over 50-60lbs.

I called MA support directly before contemplating mounting a 100+ lb device from front rackears alone and MA strongly advised against it WITHOUT any rear support.

Don't know what sort of rack you're using nor the weight of your device, but disregarding the above information from the manufacture can lead to serious problems down the road. Tweaked rack, tweaked case (of your device)....even structural failure.*



.


----------



## wkearney99

rms8 said:


> Don't know what sort of rack you're using nor the weight of your device, but disregarding the above information from the manufacturer can lead to serious problems down the road. Tweaked rack, tweaked case (of your device)....even structural failure.


Gotta agree with that. Man, I don't even want to think about how nasty it'd sound to hear a rack fail. I mean, we all have 'house sounds' we're used to hearing, but that'd take it to a whole other level.

I've had some pretty stout equipment racks over the years, the most beastly being one designed for an HP tape drive. The metal of the uprights and the structure of them was QUITE a lot more robust than the typical C-shaped post used on a rack intended for AV gear. That and the strength of the metal screws. Combine thin gauge metal for the uprights with screws not intended for that much load and you're really asking for trouble.


----------



## BllDo

rms8 said:


> *You might want to reconsider that if you are relying on ears alone and your device is anything over 50-60lbs.
> 
> I called MA support directly before contemplating mounting a 100+ lb device from front rackears alone and MA strongly advised against it WITHOUT any rear support.
> 
> Don't know what sort of rack you're using nor the weight of your device, but disregarding the above information from the manufacture can lead to serious problems down the road. Tweaked rack, tweaked case (of your device)....even structural failure.*
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have the same amp, 7-350, using a MA WRK rack. I received exactly the opposite communication you did from MA. Their only suggestion to me was mount it in the lower third of the rack to keep the center of gravity lower. Maybe you have one of the cheaper racks?


----------



## rms8

BllDo said:


> I have the same amp, 7-350, using a MA WRK rack. I received exactly the opposite communication you did from MA. Their only suggestion to me was mount it in the lower third of the rack to keep the center of gravity lower. Maybe you have one of the cheaper racks?



Since you have the same amp you should be well aware of the very tiny, tiny screws which secure the rack ears to the amp case....in either case (pun intended) be it a possible issue with tweaking the rack or teaking the case, 100lbs is a considerable amount of weight to simply be supported via front rack ears and no where else. I worked in a USAF E&I unit for 6 years and there is no way one would support something so heavy from the front alone.

Maybe your rack is 1/4" steel, but man that's risky in my book.

Good luck .


.


----------



## BllDo

rms8 said:


> I worked in a USAF E&I unit for 6 years


Thank you for your service.


----------



## kbarnes701

rms8 said:


> Since you have the same amp you should be well aware of the very tiny, tiny screws which secure the rack ears to the amp case....in either case (pun intended) be it a possible issue with tweaking the rack or teaking the case, 100lbs is a considerable amount of weight to simply be supported via front rack ears and no where else. I worked in a USAF E&I unit for 6 years and there is no way one would support something so heavy from the front alone.
> 
> Maybe your rack is 1/4" steel, but man that's risky in my book.
> 
> Good luck .
> 
> 
> .


Got to agree. My amps are all on ventilated shelves even though the manufacturer will supply rack ears for them. It is just too much weight hanging on the front IMO.


----------



## grendelrt

Is there a rule of thumb for order in a rack when it comes to receiver and amplifier. I want to say I read coolest to hottest from bottom to top. I currently have a buttkicker 1000 amp (far bottom) , Outlaw 7500 (comes tomorrow), and a Onkyo 809 (soon to be replaced with Anthem 720/Denon x6200 more than likely). I was thinking from bottom to top, BK, Outlaw 7500, then Receiver. Then I have a blu ray player up towards the top for IR reasons.


----------



## LeBon

grendelrt said:


> Is there a rule of thumb for order in a rack when it comes to receiver and amplifier. I want to say I read coolest to hottest from bottom to top. I currently have a buttkicker 1000 amp (far bottom) , Outlaw 7500 (comes tomorrow), and a Onkyo 809 (soon to be replaced with Anthem 720/Denon x6200 more than likely). I was thinking from bottom to top, BK, Outlaw 7500, then Receiver. Then I have a blu ray player up towards the top for IR reasons.


I put the heaviest item (power conditioner/transformer) at the bottom, then the amps. I put the preamp at a convenient eye-level for knob-twiddling and observation of the displays, and the Blu-Ray player just below it for convenient access. 
Other things fit in where they seemed logical -- QSC DSP equalizers are below the Oppo, and a light, the DirecTV box, and an HTPC are above that. The Ethernet switch and the Global Cache/iRule units are mounted in the back of the rack at the top. There is 1U empty space between each box, and heat is not an issue in my setup. 
Just FYI, the QSC amps are very efficient and don't make much heat. I don't control anything in the rack with IR (only the screen masking control is IR)


----------



## kbarnes701

LeBon said:


> I put the heaviest item (power conditioner/transformer) at the bottom, then the amps. I put the preamp at a convenient eye-level for knob-twiddling and observation of the displays, and the Blu-Ray player just below it for convenient access.
> Other things fit in where they seemed logical -- QSC DSP equalizers are below the Oppo, and a light, the DirecTV box, and an HTPC are above that. The Ethernet switch and the Global Cache/iRule units are mounted in the back of the rack at the top. There is 1U empty space between each box, and heat is not an issue in my setup.
> Just FYI, the QSC amps are very efficient and don't make much heat. I don't control anything in the rack with IR (only the screen masking control is IR)


Nice job. I agree with you about putting the heaviest gear at the bottom for stability. Until I revamped my rack recently, my amps were too high in the rack. The rack is on wheels so I can pull it out of its closet for maintenance and it always felt a little unstable, as though it could topple over until I reworked it with the amps at the bottom. It's my first rack so I am learning as I go along.


----------



## GPowers

grendelrt said:


> Need some help guys, I have an Outlaw 7500 on the way and need a shelf for it for my rack. Dimensions (W x H x D): 17.2 x 7.75 with feet x 18 (inches),Weight: 80 (lbs). Any advice on a shelf or is MidAtlantic custom my only choice? I would prefer just a normal shelf because the midatlantic will be prob be super expensive. I looked it up on their site and found this part number RSH4A5X OUTLAW MODEL7500, how do you order from them?


A cantilevered shelf will NOT work. I tried it with the 7500 and the screws popped right out of the threads. It needs support in front and back or a center shelf. 

I placed my 7500 on the bottom of the rack on a platform that rest on the floor.


----------



## grendelrt

GPowers said:


> A cantilevered shelf will NOT work. I tried it with the 7500 and the screws popped right out of the threads. It needs support in front and back or a center shelf.
> 
> I placed my 7500 on the bottom of the rack on a platform that rest on the floor.


Mark Rubin sent me a MA custom rack, I ended up bracing the back with some pieces of wood just in case. From my earlier question, I ended up doing from bottom to top, UPS > BK > Outlaw 7500 > Onkyo 809 > Blu Ray Player > Fan Controller.










Just finished building my riser (room is a mess :O), just need to carpet it now. I recently moved the rack to the back of the room as well, I like it back there much better.


----------



## GPowers

grendelrt said:


> Mark Rubin sent me a MA custom rack, I ended up bracing the back with some pieces of wood just in case. From my earlier question, I ended up doing from bottom to top, UPS > BK > Outlaw 7500 > Onkyo 809 > Blu Ray Player > Fan Controller.


That is my point, you supported your cantilevered shelf with wood blocks. If you did not the cantilevered shelf would sag and eventually fail.

I too supported the back of the shelf that carries my Marantz AV7702. As it was a little too heavy a cantilevered shelf.


----------



## ifor

grendelrt said:


> Mark Rubin sent me a MA custom rack, I ended up bracing the back with some pieces of wood just in case. From my earlier question, I ended up doing from bottom to top, UPS > BK > Outlaw 7500 > Onkyo 809 > Blu Ray Player > Fan Controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished building my riser (room is a mess :O), just need to carpet it now. I recently moved the rack to the back of the room as well, I like it back there much better.


WTH is that taped above the projector on the pole?


----------



## grendelrt

ifor said:


> WTH is that taped above the projector on the pole?


Haha, its UPS. Its sitting on top of part of the mount and zip tied so it doesnt move :O


----------



## Pain Infliction

grendelrt said:


> Haha, its UPS. Its sitting on top of part of the mount and zip tied so it doesnt move :O


Ever though about a power bridge? That way your UPS would be out of sight.


----------



## grendelrt

Pain Infliction said:


> Ever though about a power bridge? That way your UPS would be out of sight.


I've already got the socket run in the ceiling and everything is done, most people don't even notice the ups since it's above the projector, that shot shows it really well. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## Pain Infliction

grendelrt said:


> I've already got the socket run in the ceiling and everything is done, most people don't even notice the ups since it's above the projector, that shot shows it really well.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


You wouldn't have to change any of that on the ceiling. But if you good with it, that's all that matters.


----------



## grendelrt

Pain Infliction said:


> You wouldn't have to change any of that on the ceiling. But if you good with it, that's all that matters.


I want to say I looked at them but I didn't want to leave my UPS exposed inside my attic. I am open to cleaning it up, I also thought about dropping the UPS. The UPS is only there in case of an outage for the bulb, the socket in the ceiling is already surge protected with decent clamping voltage.


----------



## jhughy2010

I am likely going to get this rack for an AVR and three power amps. I also want to put my router and modem on a shelf in it too. Do I need rear rails? Also, which shelf would be appropriate for a receiver? Would these shelves work? I don't see a weight limit.


----------



## Neurorad

jhughy2010 said:


> I am likely going to get this rack for an AVR and three power amps. I also want to put my router and modem on a shelf in it too. Do I need rear rails? Also, which shelf would be appropriate for a receiver? Would these shelves work? I don't see a weight limit.


I would worry about heat, and cooling, with 3 amps and an AVR. Do you need some space between them? How many rack units are the amps? You may need a deeper rack, if you want to use a rear cover, for improved air movement, using fans. Fans may need extra RUs too.

I just bought a 16U 22" deep BRK laminate rack for my family room. Denon AVR that I'm using is fairly deep. I put the rack together, but nothing in it yet. I added casters, bought at Home Depot.


----------



## jhughy2010

Neurorad said:


> I would worry about heat, and cooling, with 3 amps and an AVR. Do you need some space between them? How many rack units are the amps? You may need a deeper rack, if you want to use a rear cover, for improved air movement, using fans. Fans may need extra RUs too.
> 
> I just bought a 16U 22" deep BRK laminate rack for my family room. Denon AVR that I'm using is fairly deep. I put the rack together, but nothing in it yet. I added casters, bought at Home Depot.


I'll have two Crown XLS amps (2U?) and an AVR. I'm floating around the idea of buying a server chassis too (my server is in a normal mid tower case right now) but just realized that they are much deeper than the rack I asked about. 

Forgive my ignorance... what is an "RU"? 

Good catch on the depth! I'll definitely need a deeper rack. Any recommendations? Needs to be able to be out in the open (so an MDF laminate one would be better looking than a metal one).


----------



## Neurorad

RU, Rack Units

I would prefer a black powder coated metal rack, to the black laminate, but I saved a couple hundred dollars with this BRK. This is a somewhat temporary setup, in my FR, hoping to move the equipment to another room in a year or 2. Hard to justify the cost of a nicer metal rack.

Metal racks from various manufacturers run 16-40" deep, MA laminate racks 16-28".

Middle Atlantic has some nice(r) enclosures to be used for conference rooms, with laminate tops, that you could consider. Another option is to drop a piece of granite or wood on the top, or put a 4-post rack inside a wood cabinet.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...23-in-wide-presentation-enclosure-system.aspx

Step 1, I think you need to determine what depth your server chassis will be, or if you want a server in your living space. The server fan noise may be an issue, unless it's just a PC 'serving' movies.


----------



## Cokeswigga

Finally got around to posting pictures of my rack install:


My living room had two cubby holes where an old CRT used to live. Since that TV died, and I replaced it with a LCD-TV, it was time to use up the useless cubby hole space... Behind the cubby holes is my office. So this made a logical place to put the rack (with all the AV stuff and my computers.)


----------



## jhughy2010

Neurorad said:


> RU, Rack Units
> 
> I would prefer a black powder coated metal rack, to the black laminate, but I saved a couple hundred dollars with this BRK. This is a somewhat temporary setup, in my FR, hoping to move the equipment to another room in a year or 2. Hard to justify the cost of a nicer metal rack.
> 
> Metal racks from various manufacturers run 16-40" deep, MA laminate racks 16-28".
> 
> Middle Atlantic has some nice(r) enclosures to be used for conference rooms, with laminate tops, that you could consider. Another option is to drop a piece of granite or wood on the top, or put a 4-post rack inside a wood cabinet.
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...23-in-wide-presentation-enclosure-system.aspx
> 
> Step 1, I think you need to determine what depth your server chassis will be, or if you want a server in your living space. The server fan noise may be an issue, unless it's just a PC 'serving' movies.


Thanks for your help. Yes a black powder coated metal rack would be ideal but at this point I'm trying to keep costs down. The conference room racks are beautiful, however, way out of my price range. 

The server chassis would have to be under the 22" if I were to go with the BRK20-22 correct? I think a 4U server chassis with 8-10 drive bays would suffice. I could replace the server chassis fans with some after-market fans that are quieter. There shouldn't be a lot of excess heat as long as I get a pretty big CPU cooler for it. The server is just for movies and streaming (so some transcoding but nothing crazy to create excess heat). 

So in all the rack would have a Marantz (future) pre/pro, (2) Crown XLS amps, 4U server chassis and a rackmount power strip like this one. If I could throw a shelf in there near the top for a router and modem that would be cool too. Also might need an Ethernet hub but we'll see.


----------



## memmo

Nearly finished my equipment room -- just a bit of trim work left to do on the rack platform, some baseboard, door casings, some paint and carpet.

I built some panels for the side of my Middle Atlantic Slim-5 to dress it up a bit. I used mostly scraps left over from the theater build so I think all in they cost me about $10. Much better than the $500+ Middle Atlantic wanted


----------



## Tedd

Those side panels are rather impressive!


----------



## taxman48

Great thread, lots of useful info and ideas . My son is planning out his basement and wants to put his equipment under the stairs as some members have done. Wouldn't it be better for a rack to be as close as possible to the front stage? (mains, center, sub, electrical) In my opinion it would cut down on long runs for wiring, electrical and audio/video..

thanks in advance for replies


----------



## wkearney99

taxman48 said:


> Great thread, lots of useful info and ideas . My son is planning out his basement and wants to put his equipment under the stairs as some members have done. Wouldn't it be better for a rack to be as close as possible to the front stage? (mains, center, sub, electrical) In my opinion it would cut down on long runs for wiring, electrical and audio/video..


Gear can be placed 'anywhere' within reason. I've always tried to avoid being more than 50' total feet between devices. This is usually the longest you can stretch HDMI and video signals without having to purchase repeaters of some sort. For audio it becomes a matter of spending a little more for heavier gauge wire in order to avoid voltage drop due to added distances. But this is usually a negligible cost increase. There's also the question of controlling the gear, but that's well-plowed territory for RF and tablet/phone-based remotes.

An important thing to factor is video gaming. If you're going to use the space for games a lot of times the console itself needs to be in, or very near to, the front of the room. Stuff like USB-attached accessories (disney, kinect, skylanders, etc) aren't going to work effectively if they're not close to gameplay. IMHO, it's better to put the console up close and extend it's video back to a rack rather than try and get USB extending to work reliably. 

But for a theater, no, there's no really need to put the gear all that close to the front.


----------



## kbarnes701

taxman48 said:


> Great thread, lots of useful info and ideas . My son is planning out his basement and wants to put his equipment under the stairs as some members have done. Wouldn't it be better for a rack to be as close as possible to the front stage? (mains, center, sub, electrical) In my opinion it would cut down on long runs for wiring, electrical and audio/video..
> 
> thanks in advance for replies


IMO the rack needs to be out of direct line of sight and, preferably, out of the room altogether. I say this because almost all audio gear is festooned with flashing lights, LEDs, displays and so on, of varying degrees of usefulness and often not able to be totally turned off. If all this is in the line of sight it can be very distracting. On some racks, even if the rack is placed at the back of the room, the amount of light emanating from all of these various lights and displays can be too much for a proper, light-controlled HT using a PJ and screen in a dark room. Having the rack out of the room altogether is beneficial also in eliminating any noise from cooling fans etc. and the sometimes annoying clicking of relays in the AVR or processor as the sound format changes. It can be minorly inconvenient when it comes to playing a Blu-ray disc since the player will be in another place, but as this only has to be done once per viewing I don't find it of any great concern. One will also need some means of controlling all the gear - I use a harmony remote with the wireless frequency adapter so there is no need for line of sight to the gear. All the gear that needs to be seen to be controlled (eg the AVR, Blu-ray player) has on-screen displays so one doesn’t need to see the front display panels of the units themselves.

So my starting point would always be the above considerations, with cabling etc issues given a lower priority. I have managed to achieve both: my rack is at the very front of the room, bringing the benefits you mention, but it is also outside the room. That is, it is in closet which backs on the screen wall of the HT. All the speaker wires etc run through the wall into the HT. Generally, speaker wiring is easy to accommodate and long runs, of suitably thick gauge, are not an issue. Electrical connections to mains supply, similarly, are not an issue so long as the electrical outlets are reasonably close to the rack and this will depend on the room layout itself: they may be close to the front wall or they may not. Trailing numerous electrical cables a long distance can be a real PITA and is best avoided if possible. One also needs to consider HDMI connection to the PJ which will of course be at the back of the room. If the HDMI needs to be longer than 25 feet or so, then special 'Redmere' cables will need to be considered to ensure signal integrity over the longer distance.


----------



## Tedd

It might save on some cable length overall. It also might mean a longer hdmi cable runs. 

But do you really want an electronic rack in your peripheral vision? Some people don't mind the rack up front, 
but I find the electronic displays distracting and it ruins the immersive experience for me. I originally started out 
with my gear up front, when it was a media style room with cabinetry up front. Then when I went projection, the rack went into
the side wall at the back of the room. Definitely an improvement. The last remodel of the space has the av rack outside the room, 
at the entry door, with an active cooling system. I much prefer it there.  


No electric display light pollution, no fan or equipment noise, and no extra heat load on the room.


----------



## kbarnes701

Tedd said:


> It might save on some cable length overall. It also might mean a longer hdmi cable runs.
> 
> But do you really want an electronic rack in your peripheral vision? Some people don't mind the rack up front,
> but I find the electronic displays distracting and it ruins the immersive experience for me. I originally started out
> with my gear up front, when it was a media style room with cabinetry up front. Then when I went projection, the rack went into
> the side wall at the back of the room. Definitely an improvement. The last remodel of the space has the av rack outside the room,
> at the entry door, with an active cooling system. I much prefer it there.
> 
> 
> No electric display light pollution, no fan or equipment noise, and no extra heat load on the room.


+1. We have the same objectives and the experience.


----------



## lovingdvd

kbarnes701 said:


> +1. We have the same objectives and the experience.


Guys - great discussion. I prefer to have all the gear out of the room due to noise, heat and not wanting to see the lights. However for things like an Xbox/PS4 or Blu-ray player it would be very inconvenient to have to leave the room to change media. Likewise as mentioned things like USB connections for games that have "portals" like Skylanders or Guitar Hero etc.

So here's my plan and I'm curious what you guys think... I will have two racks - one completely outside the room, and a mini rack inside the room built into a wall near the back corner and vented out the back. This mini rack would be more like a set of shelves where the Xbox/PS4, Blu-ray player etc would reside. It would also be a good place for a few odds and ends, like the gaming controllers and their charging cables, and a few games or Blu-ray movies (with the rest stored elsewhere), remote controls etc.

In the main rack (that's outside the room) I'd have all the stuff that isn't something you normally would have to touch - things like the power conditioners, amps, prepro, automation controllers (Crestron etc), lighting drivers, cable box and so forth. This way no one except me would ever need to go into the main rack with all the knobs and buttons you wouldn't want anyone to mess with, and the stuff they would need is more conveniently located in the room.

In some ways when I think about how things are headed to all digital like downloadable games and Netflix and 4K streaming it seems that in a few years we won't need equipment with physical media as much and then I can wind up with a shelving area that has little use. But I suppose UHD Blu-ray will have advantages over UHD streaming so that's at least one thing with long term physical media. Plus even in the case where down the road there's little physical media, it still seems like these mini cabinet would be useful for storing odds and ends.

Thoughts?


----------



## Tedd

I think the two rack solution is an excellent approach. It brings to mind, GPower's fabric walls, with his two door 
rack solution. It's all one rack but it does give consideration to what needs to be accessible. And it does show a sort of
"proof of concept".


Doesn't usb need to be limited to 6' of cable run? But I have seen some people putting usb ports at the seating. 


I can see where my next room might be "3" racks. Going back to htpc, and thinking about housing the htpc and 
external DAC in the media storage room. (I want a small lobby outside the next home theater and can see a hidden door there, 
into the media storage room.) Then I'll have the server and amps in their own closet, external to this space, backing onto the 
media closet. I have thought about embedding a slot load external Bluray drive, in the theater's fabric walls. Not sure whether 
I actually need a second Bluray player though. It might just be "design/budget creep" and it might simply a good thing to get up, 
stretch the legs, and move around a bit.


----------



## kbarnes701

lovingdvd said:


> Guys - great discussion. I prefer to have all the gear out of the room due to noise, heat and not wanting to see the lights. However for things like an Xbox/PS4 or Blu-ray player it would be very inconvenient to have to leave the room to change media. Likewise as mentioned things like USB connections for games that have "portals" like Skylanders or Guitar Hero etc.
> 
> So here's my plan and I'm curious what you guys think... I will have two racks - one completely outside the room, and a mini rack inside the room built into a wall near the back corner and vented out the back. This mini rack would be more like a set of shelves where the Xbox/PS4, Blu-ray player etc would reside. It would also be a good place for a few odds and ends, like the gaming controllers and their charging cables, and a few games or Blu-ray movies (with the rest stored elsewhere), remote controls etc.
> 
> In the main rack (that's outside the room) I'd have all the stuff that isn't something you normally would have to touch - things like the power conditioners, amps, prepro, automation controllers (Crestron etc), lighting drivers, cable box and so forth. This way no one except me would ever need to go into the main rack with all the knobs and buttons you wouldn't want anyone to mess with, and the stuff they would need is more conveniently located in the room.
> 
> In some ways when I think about how things are headed to all digital like downloadable games and Netflix and 4K streaming it seems that in a few years we won't need equipment with physical media as much and then I can wind up with a shelving area that has little use. But I suppose UHD Blu-ray will have advantages over UHD streaming so that's at least one thing with long term physical media. Plus even in the case where down the road there's little physical media, it still seems like these mini cabinet would be useful for storing odds and ends.
> 
> Thoughts?


Seems like a good plan to me. I don't do games but I can see the benefits of having the games console and controllers to hand all the time. Changing Blu-rays is more convenient if the Blu-ray player is inside the theater I agree - but since I only have to do this once per movie, it's something that doesn't bother me too much. I put the disc in, and by the time I have walked back to the HT is has loaded and is playing trailers or showing the menu. I keep meaning to install a small screen in the closet so I can cue up the disc from there but I haven't gotten around to it. Not really needed, but it's pretty cool and gadgetacious, so I bet I will do it eventually  I don't have room in my small HT for a rack anyway, so for me it was a no-brainer to install it outside the room - in fact if I didn't have the closet hand there on the other side of the screen wall, I'd be pretty much screwed. If I did have room in the HT for a small rack along the lines you suggest, I'd definitely consider it, especially if I was into gaming. 

I will, I hope, be building a new, bigger HT from scratch in a couple of years when we plan to move house, and this is something I would consider doing. Having seen the benefits of having all, or most, of the gear in a separate room though, I would always stay with that plan now. My current thinking is to create a boot room at the back of the HT and house the rack there, along with all the associated stuff like SPL meters, mic stands, mics, laptop etc etc. I would also mount the PJ inside this room, shining through a window like they do in real cinemas. That would be real cool I think and would also eliminate heat and noise from the PJ itself. It's just an embryonic idea right now though. I note these things down as I think about them.


----------



## Tedd

I see my GPower's av rack paste, didn't take....


----------



## kbarnes701

Tedd said:


> Doesn't usb need to be limited to 6' of cable run? But I have seen some people putting usb ports at the seating.


The USB 'active' cables with the little extender think in them work well. I am using a 33 foot USB cable here like that with no problems at all. Something like *this *(I think this is the exact one I have).


----------



## kbarnes701

Tedd said:


> I see my GPower's av rack paste, didn't take....


Way cool idea!


----------



## GPowers

Tedd said:


> I see my GPower's av rack paste, didn't take....


WOW that is an old photo. Just look at the reference to DVD vs Blu-ray. But I though it would be easer to open a smaller door when everyone was in the theater.


----------



## Tedd

An oldie but a goldie.  (I purposely included the 04.23.2007 in the snip. ) 


I thought of your setup right off, couldn't remember your AVS name and went to Google Images, to hunt it down. 
I didn't remember you had two doors, but there's no reason that lower rack couldn't be on the other side of the wall. 
But I sure remembered your fabric walls, and the small accessible rack section. I think that's what is known as making 
a lasting impression. 

As for active usb cables, I knew of them, but haven't used one in any sort of gaming application, so that's nice
to know that's an option. I'll snip that post and file it in my htpc folder.  (DayZ might just see some screen time.)


----------



## Falcon2915

Dennis Erskine said:


> One of the advantages of a well engineered rack is the wire management capabilities designed into the rack.


Very clean and professional.
I hope I can get something like this in mine once I get onto it!


----------



## auburnu008

Here are a couple of pictures of mine.


----------



## auburnu008

Here are a couple of pictures of mine.


----------



## lovingdvd

auburnu008 said:


> Here are a couple of pictures of mine.


That's a real beauty! Which make and model racks are those? Did you wire that yourself?

Where do you guys keep the slack when wiring up your racks so that its out of the way, yet available if you decide to move things around later? For example in Auburn's rack pictures its hard to see where any slack is kept, tho I would assume it is there somewhere.


----------



## kbarnes701

lovingdvd said:


> That's a real beauty! Which make and model racks are those? Did you wire that yourself?
> 
> Where do you guys keep the slack when wiring up your racks so that its out of the way, yet available if you decide to move things around later? For example in Auburn's rack pictures its hard to see where any slack is kept, tho I would assume it is there somewhere.


I don't keep any slack in my rack, other than sufficient to remove individual units if required. Of course, this means a rewire if moving units around within the rack, so the best advice is to make sure that everything is where you need it to be right from the get-go. Also, I have found that leaving gaps in the rack, covered with blanking plates, gives a lot of flexibility for adding and removing stuff over time. As always, forward planning saves a lot of potentially wasted time in the end. 

My approach is heavy gear (eg amps) at the bottom, gear I need to interact with (eg disc players etc) at a convenient height for that, and all other gear where it fits. In my rack this has meant the bottom half is used by, or reserved for amps, the center section for Blu-ray players, HD-DVD player etc and the upper section for stuff like my Darbee CIE processor, mini-DSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room EQ processor, Sat TV receiver and so on. The AVR sits at the top so that I can leave a good cooling gap above it. With a few well placed blanking plates in between the sections this gives me the flexibility to move stuff around without too much rewiring being needed, and also allows me to add new stuff over time - eg another DDRC-88A to EQ my Atmos overhead speakers, a bigger AVR etc.


----------



## kbarnes701

auburnu008 said:


> Here are a couple of pictures of mine.


Really, really nice job. Wow! I am guessing that you constructed the doorway to fit the three racks and that it wasn't just a huge coincidence that the doorway was exactly three racks wide? Great to have a room behind the rack so you can easily access everything. And your wiring must be among the very best anywhere - great job and an example to us all.


----------



## TMcG

auburnu008 said:


>


I've never seen better cable management....without any cable management accessories, save for a handful of zip ties.


----------



## auburnu008

kbarnes701 said:


> Really, really nice job. Wow! I am guessing that you constructed the doorway to fit the three racks and that it wasn't just a huge coincidence that the doorway was exactly three racks wide? Great to have a room behind the rack so you can easily access everything. And your wiring must be among the very best anywhere - great job and an example to us all.


Thanks! The room behind is a lifesaver. I had the dimensions of the racks before we started building the house so I had the framers make it the right size. My wife and I put the racks in when we moved in. Once we got 2 in there the 3rd one was TIGHT! If the opening had been a 1/16" smaller I would have had to re-frame it. I got lucky there.



TMcG said:


> I've never seen better cable management....without any cable management accessories, save for a handful of zip ties.


Thank you! I bought some of the lacing bars from Middle Atlantic but didn't like how they stood out so I just used the sides of the rack for most of the management. I did use a ton of monoprice Velcro ties though. Those things are great.


----------



## NickTheGreat

TMcG said:


> I've never seen better cable management....without any cable management accessories, save for a handful of zip ties.


That's why it's _obviously _a photoshop


----------



## kbarnes701

auburnu008 said:


> Thanks! The room behind is a lifesaver. I had the dimensions of the racks before we started building the house so I had the framers make it the right size. My wife and I put the racks in when we moved in. Once we got 2 in there the 3rd one was TIGHT! If the opening had been a 1/16" smaller I would have had to re-frame it. I got lucky there.


I guessed as much. Really nice job though. Lucky with that framing. Reminds me of a Ferrari mechanic I know - he says there are 4 degrees of tight: 

1 = tight
2 = freakin' tight
3 = Ferrari tight
4 = broken





auburnu008 said:


> Thank you! I bought some of the lacing bars from Middle Atlantic but didn't like how they stood out so I just used the sides of the rack for most of the management. I did use a ton of monoprice Velcro ties though. Those things are great.


I manage my cables the same way. I buy cable ties (the plastic sort which I prefer) by the 1,000.


----------



## Glimmie

lovingdvd said:


> Which make and model racks are those?


They look like Mid Atlantic to me. These are the higher end full racks, not the Slim-5 many of us use.


----------



## Glimmie

lovingdvd said:


> That's a real beauty!
> Where do you guys keep the slack when wiring up your racks so that its out of the way, yet available if you decide to move things around later?


A bit over the top for home HT but I put a raised computer floor in my equipment room. You can get this stuff used cheap to free if you look around.


----------



## auburnu008

lovingdvd said:


> That's a real beauty! Which make and model racks are those? Did you wire that yourself?
> 
> Where do you guys keep the slack when wiring up your racks so that its out of the way, yet available if you decide to move things around later? For example in Auburn's rack pictures its hard to see where any slack is kept, tho I would assume it is there somewhere.


Thanks! The racks are Middle Atlantic ERK-4420's. I hide the slack in the sides. There are about 2 inches on each side of the shelves that allow wiring to be hid.


----------



## auburnu008

Glimmie said:


> A bit over the top for home HT but I put a raised computer floor in my equipment room. You can get this stuff used cheap to free if you look around.


That looks great! Really good job on that rack.


----------



## bhorrell

Does anyone have a good DIY or inexpensive light for your rack?


----------



## Neurorad

bhorrell said:


> Does anyone have a good DIY or inexpensive light for your rack?


This is what I use









And this is hanging over my rack, in the mechanical room










Yeah, I know what you meant.


----------



## wkearney99

It's tough to decide what lighting works best. Are you talking about front-panel lighting for device controls? Or around the back for wiring/setup? 

For the latter I've used a utility light with a magnet to hold it in place on the rack. Harbor Fright, I think, but they don't seem to make it anymore (the magnet is embedded in the housing). That and I've got a couple of Sears Craftsman rechargable around the house: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cordless-rechargeable-work-light-with-35-led/p-03473904000P 

Never really come across any 'front panel' lighting I wanted to keep using. I've tried various schemes, and, honestly, these days there's less and less that needs direct hands-on adjustment. Quite a lot gets done with apps on smart devices instead. Either via direct network IP or IR via an iTach.

Though, this pop-out from one Middle Atlantic could be interesting: (with typical MA price tag)
http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...lt-series-rack-light-power/pdlt-815rv-rn.aspx

Previous things I've looked at were either the gooseneck kind or a pop-out, like this one:
https://reverb-res.cloudinary.com/i...75,w_620/v1430938832/laiw6txxzgilyilijkwe.jpg

None of which would really give me the kind of lighting I needed. Which wasn't device specific, more like several devices. So a small magnetically attached flashlight, or one tucked into a rackmount drawer, usually does a better job. A drawer is a VERY handy addition to the rack. 4U is a bit much and tends to gather too much junk over time. 1U is a bit too shallow for a lot of stuff. If you can find room for a 2U drawer it's worth considering. Put down either felt or workshop liner to keep stuff from sliding around in it.


----------



## jautor

wkearney99 said:


> Though, this pop-out from one Middle Atlantic could be interesting: (with typical MA price tag)
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...lt-series-rack-light-power/pdlt-815rv-rn.aspx


I've got the "Designer" model of that MA light/power strip (PDLT-815RVA) at the top of my rack for front panel light when I need it, and one of the gooseneck USB LED lights plugged into the back of the unit for additional light behind. 

The LED magnet-backed lights are great for rack work, stick it to the underside of the shelf/unit above whatever you're working on. 

Jeff


----------



## wkearney99

jautor said:


> I've got the "Designer" model of that MA light/power strip (PDLT-815RVA) at the top of my rack for front panel light when I need it


Care to post a picture of it in action? I'm curious to know how the light casts on an actual install.


----------



## jautor

wkearney99 said:


> Care to post a picture of it in action? I'm curious to know how the light casts on an actual install.


Don't remember if I had this photo in my build thread or not, so here goes:










It casts enough light to read a manual and certainly see the button labels - at least halfway down my 32U rack...


----------



## wkearney99

jautor said:


> Don't remember if I had this photo in my build thread or not, so here goes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It casts enough light to read a manual and certainly see the button labels - at least halfway down my 32U rack...


Nice, thanks!

I see both a bluish and a reddish light being cast. Is that an artifact in the pictures or are there multiple elements in the lamp with different colors? I'd be inclined to actually pay MA prices for it if color-changing was included....


----------



## jautor

wkearney99 said:


> I see both a bluish and a reddish light being cast. Is that an artifact in the pictures or are there multiple elements in the lamp with different colors? I'd be inclined to actually pay MA prices for it if color-changing was included....


Multiple elements. My unit is ~4 years old, is uses an array of colored LEDs to achieve brightness and a white color appearance (the color wash effect is more pronounced in the photo than it really looks) - I don't know if they've changed the design / engineering since then.


----------



## kbarnes701

I use this one:

http://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_87451_pro.htm

http://www.adamhall.com/en/Adam_Hall_19_Parts_87451_PRO_-_19_LED_Array_Rack_Light_white_1_U.html


----------



## TMcG

jautor said:


> I've got the "Designer" model of that MA light/power strip (PDLT-815RVA) at the top of my rack for front panel light when I need it, and one of the gooseneck USB LED lights plugged into the back of the unit for additional light behind.
> 
> The LED magnet-backed lights are great for rack work, stick it to the underside of the shelf/unit above whatever you're working on.
> 
> Jeff


Isn't that the Middle Atlantic LT-1RA?? I have the same one.

I also have this one from Panamax....looking to offload it if anyone is interested. Like new condition in original box. I never used it. Picture and features here: http://www.smarthome.com/powermax-racmax-3-color-rack-light.html


----------



## jautor

TMcG said:


> Isn't that the Middle Atlantic LT-1RA?? I have the same one.


Nope - PDLT-815RVA, the Designer light AND 1U power strip... Two birds, one set of LEDs.


----------



## Neurorad

Anyone have any experience with the new MA QAR (quick assembly rack)? Anyone see it at CEDIA?

Sturdier or less sturdy than Slim 5? One of the cheapest racks I've seen.


----------



## Neurorad

Neurorad said:


> Anyone have any experience with the new MA QAR (quick assembly rack)? Anyone see it at CEDIA?
> 
> Sturdier or less sturdy than Slim 5? One of the cheapest racks I've seen.


QAR has 13 gauge vertical rack rails, Slim 5 are 11 gauge. I guess that extra steel adds significantly to the price.

Freestanding Slim 5 is wobbly enough, don't think I could do the 13 gauge.

Supported by a wood frame, that QAR looks like it would be a great option.

Edit - link to QAR http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...qar-series-quick-assembly-rack/qar-35-20.aspx


----------



## FlyersPh9

Is there a "rack best practice" guide? I'm interested in recommended temperatures, order of components in a rack, other important things to consider when picking a rack location, etc.


----------



## jautor

FlyersPh9 said:


> Is there a "rack best practice" guide? I'm interested in recommended temperatures, order of components in a rack, other important things to consider when picking a rack location, etc.


Middle Atlantic white papers, including their excellent "Thermal Management" one:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/resources/white-papers.aspx

Heavy stuff at the bottom for safety/stability. Components with displays which require user interaction - like the AVR - should be near eye level. DVD/BD and game consoles should be within reach of folks to insert media (assuming they're allowed to!).


----------



## LeBon

wkearney99 said:


> Nice, thanks!
> 
> I see both a bluish and a reddish light being cast. Is that an artifact in the pictures or are there multiple elements in the lamp with different colors? I'd be inclined to actually pay MA prices for it if color-changing was included....


I have that same MA unit (without the power conditioning), and it has two colors to get a warmer combined color. It is several years old, and it was designed before we had all the LED color selections. However, it does not have color changing.


----------



## bhorrell

kbarnes701 said:


> I use this one:
> 
> http://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_87451_pro.htm
> 
> http://www.adamhall.com/en/Adam_Hall_19_Parts_87451_PRO_-_19_LED_Array_Rack_Light_white_1_U.html


Thanks

That is nice. Hopefully I can find it a good price in the US.


----------



## kbarnes701

bhorrell said:


> Thanks
> 
> That is nice. Hopefully I can find it a good price in the US.


It's made by Adam Hall and I think they have pretty wide distribution. It's a very nice unit - mount it at the top of the rack (it occupies 1RU) and it has enough light to illuminate the entire rack. It has three settings, bright, not so bright and not so not so bright so you can set it for any ambient light conditions.

If you can't source one in the USA, try Thomas Mann in Germany. The unit isn't very heavy so carriage costs should be minimal, although they may impose a minimum charge.


----------



## cbromley

Middle Atlantic Rack
Denon DN-500AV Pre-Amp
QSC DCM 10D Cinema Processor
QSC DCA 3022 Amplifier
QSC DCA 1222 (3) Amplifier
QSC CX 254 Amplifier (4 Channel)


----------



## cbromley

Middle Atlantic Rack
Denon DN-500AV Pre-Amp
QSC DCM 10D Cinema Processor
QSC DCA 3022 Amplifier
QSC DCA 1222 (3) Amplifier
QSC CX 254 Amplifier (4 Channel)


----------



## RRizzle

auburnu008 said:


> Here are a couple of pictures of mine.


This is just insanely beautiful! Nice job


----------



## redstang

kbarnes701 said:


> Revisions to my rack.
> 
> I have just upgraded my system to an Atmos 7.2.4 setup (from the previous 5.2.4 setup) and this necessitated an additional 2 channel amp in the rack. I took the opportunity to totally review the rack layout and the result is below. If anyone wants to see how it was laid out before, then this post has the photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi - I just bought an Emotiva XPA-2 and an XPA-5 and there's not a lot of standard equipment racks that will hold 150lbs of amp that is 19" deep. Where did you get all the rack equipment and dividers? It looks great.


----------



## kbarnes701

redstang said:


> Hi - I just bought an Emotiva XPA-2 and an XPA-5 and there's not a lot of standard equipment racks that will hold 150lbs of amp that is 19" deep. Where did you get all the rack equipment and dividers? It looks great.


I am in the UK so the info may not be of any use to you but for reference I bought my rack *here*. I bought some of the dividers etc there too but most of them came from eBay.


----------



## smitty8000

*Some before and almost after...still finishing*

There's a lot of professionally done and really good looking racks in here. I thought I'd add my amateur still in the works rack. You can always tell the difference  I had a void in my master bedroom closet that was right off of the family room, so I decided to punch a hole in the wall and move my AV equipment in there. At the same time I decided to clean up the room and went with in-wall/ceiling M&K speakers. I've already added an additional power amp and removed a power conditioner (and this was just started 8 weeks ago). I also built a custom maple with perforated black metal door. But guess what? My wife, actually likes the look of the work and said to just put the maple casing up instead (it will match the woodwork under the TV). That's my project for today, I started off in here because I'm searching for 2 more custom rack shelves to complete the rack.

FYI- Middle Atlantic Rotating In-Wall rack. It's loaded pretty heavy, so I've just made it a habit to put a step stool and a 2x4 under it when it's extended.


----------



## gmrankin

I was originally going to just put the rack in the storage area never to be seen again but when I decided to move part of the back wall a few feet to make room for my bar area it left me by chance (I wish I could have planned it that well) for an in wall rack. Rack it self purchased second hand off of CL. I need some wire management help but it is what it is for now.


----------



## cdika17

Just confirming what rack i should get before ordering. Going with 2 MA Slim 5 43U, should i go with 20" deep or 26"?


----------



## kbarnes701

cdika17 said:


> Just confirming what rack i should get before ordering. Going with 2 MA Slim 5 43U, should i go with 20" deep or 26"?


If you have room, I'd personally go for the 26 inch deep version, all other things being equal. Mine is a 20 inch deep rack and I find that the largest units (my amps) really fill it out depthwise. It is conceivable that one day I could have even deeper amps and then I would be struggling. So for future-proofing, I'd have chosen a deeper rack, but I just don't have the space. If you are certain you will never need anything deeper than 20 inches, then go for that as a less expensive option.

Remember that there are things which stick out beyond the depth of the deepest item in the rack - eg connectors, wall warts, speakons, all manner of cable connectors like XLR etc so you will need more depth than just the rack anyway. If you go with the deeper rack everything will be nicely contained inside of it, and that may be an advantage depending on your installation situation.

One thing I did before I took the plunge to buy my first rack was to really carefully plan out the layout, allowing blanks spaces for future expansion and so on. I must have done this exercise half a dozen times, and yet still I forgot things. So plan as carefully as you can before you buy. And remember the blank spaces for future expansion - systems grow over time and who knows what new processors and so on might become 'essential' down the line. For example, my miniDSP DDRC-88A room EQ unit and my Darbee CIE 5000 unit didn't exist when I bought my rack. Fortunately I had allowed for sufficient spaces. In the meantime you can fill the gaps with cheap blanking plates, or perforated plates to give potentially better airflow around the rack (depending on how you decide to cool it).

It can be good fun planning your rack, but it is hard work to install and deinstall it if necessary, so if you get it right first time, or more or less right, it pays in the long run.


----------



## cdika17

Yah I have a dedicated room for everything(10'4" x 4'8"), out of site out of mind, i could go and build diy racks but love the versatility of MA racks and may as well go with MA. Slim 5 seem to be the cheapest and i don't really need anything for looks. I will have both of them on casters to I can move them around and such. Ive downloaded the racktools program and have pretty much everything laid out. Can't wait to start terminating this mess!! (not really)


----------



## Tedd

The Slim5 racks are awesome. 


+1 for the 26" deep version, since you have the space, which is a nice luxury. 
The extra depth should make for a more stable rack, with the extra "wheelbase".
Although I do wonder about how tipsy a 43U tall rack on wheels might be? 
Might still be a safety hazard.


----------



## kbarnes701

Tedd said:


> The Slim5 racks are awesome.
> 
> 
> +1 for the 26" deep version, since you have the space, which is a nice luxury.
> The extra depth should make for a more stable rack, with the extra "wheelbase".
> Although I do wonder about how tipsy a 43U tall rack on wheels might be?
> Might still be a safety hazard.


Mine is 43RU and 20 inches or so deep. It is also on castors because the only way I can access the back is to pull it out of the closet. I put the amps at the bottom for added stability. It sort of 'wobbles' a bit when you pull it out, but it has never felt unstable or likely to fall over or anything. When it is in its usual position I can clamp down on the castor wheels with little levers designed for the purpose and that makes it pretty solid.


----------



## towercontrol

Did you guys get the weight problem solved. I know about it too. I have a 64lb Onkyo. I had to custom order a 77lb rated shelf from M.A. Its a 4U space mount. Its almost as tall as the amp itself. It also had to be vented for the fans built into the side of the 875. So its a big shelf, but could take the weight and move the air. Hope you got it solved.




grendelrt said:


> Mark Rubin sent me a MA custom rack, I ended up bracing the back with some pieces of wood just in case. From my earlier question, I ended up doing from bottom to top, UPS > BK > Outlaw 7500 > Onkyo 809 > Blu Ray Player > Fan Controller.
> 
> Just finished building my riser (room is a mess :O), just need to carpet it now. I recently moved the rack to the back of the room as well, I like it back there much better.





GPowers said:


> That is my point, you supported your cantilevered shelf with wood blocks. If you did not the cantilevered shelf would sag and eventually fail.
> 
> I too supported the back of the shelf that carries my Marantz AV7702. As it was a little too heavy a cantilevered shelf.


----------



## kbarnes701

towercontrol said:


> Did you guys get the weight problem solved. I know about it too. I have a 64lb Onkyo. I had to custom order a 77lb rated shelf from M.A. Its a 4U space mount. Its almost as tall as the amp itself. It also had to be vented for the fans built into the side of the 875. So its a big shelf, but could take the weight and move the air. Hope you got it solved.


In my case, there never was a weight 'problem' because I am not using cantilevered shelves. My shelves are all fixed front and rear, each side (4 bolts) to the frame of the rack and as such they will hold enormous weights. I would be wary of using cantilevered shelves for things as heavy as amps.


----------



## mercracing

I have a couple cantilevered shelves. The heaviest thing I have on one is my AVR. Yamaha rxv477. No idea what it weighs. I do have some of the full length shelves but those are for the totes of DVDs and blurays. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Neurorad

I bought a MA telescoping rack shelf, for my small FR rack I'm putting together. This shelf is rated to 350 pounds. 

Works as intended, mounting to front and rear rails.

I will use it to hold a DirecTV DVR, for a year or 2. Will be re-purposed in the basement rack when equipment is moved to that remote location. 

One drawback of the telescoping rack shelf - it may interfere with vertical cable management, if the rear rack rails are not recessed. My small black laminate MA rack offers a few different positions, for the front and rear rails, so not an issue for me; vertical cables will be positioned behind the rear rails.

Additionally, custom MA RSH plates are no longer an option, if you use the telescoping shelves; I believe some of the cantilevered shelves (not sure which ones) can accept a MA RSH plate, without needing to buy a whole new shelf. Anyone know the details on this?

If telescoping shelves are positioned close to each other, within a couple RUs, it may be hard to make cable connections, with shallow equipment. Space may be tight between the shelves, or between a shelf and the rack top, to get your hand in there.

The cantilevered shelves have significant advantages, but for nervous people with large amps and hidden equipment, the telescoping shelf may be a good option.

Edit - link to MA telescoping rack shelf http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...elescoping-heavy-duty-rackshelf/vsa-1626.aspx


----------



## Tedd

I find the Slim5 to a very flexible racking solution, and it can easily accommodate DIY'er solutions. I've done several DIY rear supports for 
various heavy items over the years, for use with my Slim5 and the previous 2 post computer rack. 


An angle iron rear support was made to support the rear feet of a cantilevered 88 pound amp, for my 20" deep Slim5.

I've also done two flat metal drop support brackets, and bolted to the shelf near the back, to the side cross brace.


The Slim5 also has all those holes down their side of the rails. I've considered using them to bolt some small angle iron in, front to back, 
and then run a support across the width, bolted to these. 


I've also cut down all my racks down in height, that I've owned (-all bought used), so I've gotten a lot of use out of a $20 4" angle grinder to customize.


----------



## azz7686

I use all thread up the back with nuts and washers to support mine and can't afford real shelves only have one so cut some laminated wood for shelves and used the all thread to support them where I wanted and used black electrical tape to wrap around the bare threads to conceal it and protect my equipment from getting knocked up when bumped into, Hey the rack was free and the shelf I got from an insurance agency throwing it away so mines pretty cheap and works great for now.


----------



## A&M 350Z

Question. A lot of you guys have the long power strips along the rack. Makes power cord management nice. Can or do you plug the power strip into a surge protector/line conditioner? I use a panamax unit and also a UPS for network gear. Thanks for suggestions.


----------



## bpassman

techlvr33 said:


> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art sonneborn* /forum/post/9485798
> 
> 
> here are a couple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there's an equipment rack here,lol! The things I would let them do too me,lol.
Click to expand...

Just because these racks were missing from pages 16-84!


----------



## Neurorad

Yes, you can plug the power strip into a 'power conditioner' though many strips provide the needed surge protection. Most of the power conditioners are a huge waste of money, doing nothing to improve the audio or video.


----------



## mercracing

I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00145EVJ6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 and have most of my expensive stuff plugged into it, used up all the outlets. I also have outlets that were installed on the back of my (server)rack and I have a couple of the cheaper things plugged into that. Those strips plug into a surge protector outlet. http://www.lowes.com/pd_591463-427-5260WSAZ_1z0yt2jZ1z10xli__?productId=50182417&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1


----------



## window2000bug

A rack doesn't have to be pretty or have the latest equipment. This is my cheap/functional rack that is under my stairs in the basement:

Xbox 360
PS3
WRT54G router that acts as a bridge
Sony AV system
IR Repeater
TiVo Mini (via Moca)

Cost: Scrap wood...


----------



## cdika17

What about hammond adjustable racks with the square hole that has the cage nut inserts? Can adjust from 24" -36"


----------



## jevans64

Not really a traditional rack meant for hiding in a closet, but I just did the finishing touches on my A/V rack project. Consists of 80/20 black extruded aluminum and painted plywood and measures 64.5" W x 20" D x 19" H. Left and right shelf is 17.5" wide and middle shelf is 25.5" wide, mainly to fit the DefTech CLR 3000 center. I kind-of messed up on the plywood selection but it was already cut before I realized the grain was different on one piece. Looks like one piece was marked Oak but it is Birch or something. Oh well. The amp and center channel should hide it enough though.

Ended up costing around $678 for the 80/20 and another $100 or so for the wood and paint.

Parts...

Aluminum
1x 64.5" 1003-Black-FB
1x 64.5" 1002-Black-FB
2x 25.5" 1002-Black-FB
10x 18.0" 1002-Black-FB
4x 17.5" 1002-Black-FB
6x 18.0" 1003-Black-FB
2x 18.0" 1010-Black-FB

Hardware
24x 4108-Black
20x 4101-Black
16x 3393
48x 3386
12x 2015-Plain
8x 2820
2x 4080-Black
4x 3358
2x 4081-Black
44x 3356


----------



## towercontrol

Thats looks great! Better then I could have done! 




jevans64 said:


> Not really a traditional rack meant for hiding in a closet, but I just did the finishing touches on my A/V rack project. Consists of 80/20 black extruded aluminum and painted plywood and measures 64.5" W x 20" D x 19" H. Left and right shelf is 17.5" wide and middle shelf is 25.5" wide, mainly to fit the DefTech CLR 3000 center. I kind-of messed up on the plywood selection but it was already cut before I realized the grain was different on one piece. Looks like one piece was marked Oak but it is Birch or something. Oh well. The amp and center channel should hide it enough though.
> 
> Ended up costing around $678 for the 80/20 and another $100 or so for the wood and paint.
> 
> Parts...
> 
> Aluminum
> 1x 64.5" 1003-Black-FB
> 1x 64.5" 1002-Black-FB
> 2x 25.5" 1002-Black-FB
> 10x 18.0" 1002-Black-FB
> 4x 17.5" 1002-Black-FB
> 6x 18.0" 1003-Black-FB
> 2x 18.0" 1010-Black-FB
> 
> Hardware
> 24x 4108-Black
> 20x 4101-Black
> 16x 3393
> 48x 3386
> 12x 2015-Plain
> 8x 2820
> 2x 4080-Black
> 4x 3358
> 2x 4081-Black
> 44x 3356


----------



## Adream2018

Hi guys, I'm hoping you can give me some advice on AV racks. I need a stand alone unit, as opposed to one that resides in a wall. It need to look really nice and must be able to support the heavy equipment shown below. 

Can you tell me if that equipment would fit in both of these racks: $638 for 55" Sanus CFR2127 and $$652 for 55" Mid Atlantic RCS-2724? Are those good prices for the racks? Is one rack better than the other? Is there another brand or model that you would recommend to me instead?

Is there anything else I need to buy for these racks? I think the Mid Atlantic comes with fans but the Sanus does not? What about custom face plates? Anything else?

I am brand new to AV racks, so any information you could provide would be helpful to me. Thanks a lot.

*The AV rack needs to hold the following:*
1) ATI AT6005 amp: 138 lbs. 17 1/4" W X 9 1/2" H X 18 1/2" D
2) ATI 4006 amp: 105 lbs. 17 3/8" W X 8" H X 16 7/8" D
3) Denon 33.1 lbs. AVR X5200W 17.1" W X 9.3" H X 15.5" D may need some additional space if I upgrade to a bigger AVR in the future and or buy a pre-amp/processor/DAC
4) OPPO BluRay player
5) Optimum cable box
6) PS4
7) Power conditioner/battery back-up


----------



## Glimmie

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Hi guys, I'm hoping you can give me some advice on AV racks. I need a stand alone unit, as opposed to one that resides in a wall. It need to look really nice and must be able to support the heavy equipment shown below.
> 
> Can you tell me if that equipment would fit in both of these racks: $638 for 55" Sanus CFR2127 and $$652 for 55" Mid Atlantic RCS-2724? Are those good prices for the racks? Is one rack better than the other? Is there another brand or model that you would recommend to me instead?
> 
> Is there anything else I need to buy for these racks? I think the Mid Atlantic comes with fans but the Sanus does not? What about custom face plates? Anything else?
> 
> I am brand new to AV racks, so any information you could provide would be helpful to me. Thanks a lot.
> 
> *The AV rack needs to hold the following:*
> 1) ATI AT6005 amp: 138 lbs. 17 1/4" W X 9 1/2" H X 18 1/2" D
> 2) ATI 4006 amp: 105 lbs. 17 3/8" W X 8" H X 16 7/8" D
> 3) Denon 33.1 lbs. AVR X5200W 17.1" W X 9.3" H X 15.5" D may need some additional space if I upgrade to a bigger AVR in the future and or buy a pre-amp/processor/DAC
> 4) OPPO BluRay player
> 5) Optimum cable box
> 6) PS4
> 7) Power conditioner/battery back-up


I would go with the Mid Atlantic. They are a professional rack manufacture and have probably the most extensive catalog of rack accessories. As for custom faceplates, yes Mid Atlantic offers this service.

IME, Sanus is more of an AV furniture manufacture. Now that could be a better option if the rack is to be exposed in a room. The Mid Atlantic, being a professional rack, does look rather industrial.

If being built flush into a wall, the Mid Atlantic is the best choice by far.


----------



## BllDo

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Hi guys, I'm hoping you can give me some advice on AV racks. I need a stand alone unit, as opposed to one that resides in a wall. It need to look really nice and must be able to support the heavy equipment shown below.
> 
> Can you tell me if that equipment would fit in both of these racks: $638 for 55" Sanus CFR2127 and $$652 for 55" Mid Atlantic RCS-2724? Are those good prices for the racks? Is one rack better than the other? Is there another brand or model that you would recommend to me instead?...


Based on my quick back of the napkin math, it looks like all of that should fit into a 27U rack, but it won't give you much room to play with and won't have a lot of room for ventilation. Ideally, you would want to have a space above and below each of the amps and the receiver for cooling. I don't think you will really have that with a 27U. Also, if you decide you to add any equipment in the future, you'd be out of luck. You may want to see if you can fit the 35U MA. 

I have a 37U rack that was maybe half full when I started. Five years later, I'm pulling stuff out to put into another rack so that I can upgrade my equipment in the main rack.


----------



## Adream2018

Glimmie said:


> I would go with the Mid Atlantic. They are a professional rack manufacture and have probably the most extensive catalog of rack accessories. As for custom faceplates, yes Mid Atlantic offers this service.
> 
> IME, Sanus is more of an AV furniture manufacture. Now that could be a better option if the rack is to be exposed in a room. The Mid Atlantic, being a professional rack, does look rather industrial.
> 
> If being built flush into a wall, the Mid Atlantic is the best choice by far.





BllDo said:


> Based on my quick back of the napkin math, it looks like all of that should fit into a 27U rack, but it won't give you much room to play with and won't have a lot of room for ventilation. Ideally, you would want to have a space above and below each of the amps and the receiver for cooling. I don't think you will really have that with a 27U. Also, if you decide you to add any equipment in the future, you'd be out of luck. You may want to see if you can fit the 35U MA.
> 
> I have a 37U rack that was maybe half full when I started. Five years later, I'm pulling stuff out to put into another rack so that I can upgrade my equipment in the main rack.


Thank you both for the feedback. This afternoon I purchased the Mid Atlantic rack along with two heavy duty shelves that will support both the 138 lb. ATI AT6005 and the 105 lb. AT4006 amps. 

The 27U was a perfect fit, height wise for my space, which is why I selected that unit. If I ever needed more space I would get a second identical unit and place it side by side the first. It would be a perfect fit in my room. Adding height was not an option for me. I highly doubt I would want anything else in the rack though. Time will tell.

I purchased the 27U for a steep discount from MSRP too. My unit came with fans included, do I need to purchase additional fans, or can anyone suggest any cool mods (i.e. lights...my unit will be in the back of the room so it will not distract from the screen). If you could suggest or post a link/s to some cool lights or other mods I would appreciate it. When I spoke with their customer service rep, they showed me where to get the *custom plates on their website which I will definitely invest in at some point*.


----------



## taxman48

Looking for a rack that is the narrowest, depth wise. I have one but can't remember the brand. I would like to get another one. The rack is great because of the depth of 16".. Thanks in advance

Update: found this one online:

http://www.thesimplestores.com/p-59...stand-each-shelf-holds-up-to-150lb-black.aspx


----------



## kbarnes701

Tonycpa2004 said:


> ...can anyone suggest any cool mods (i.e. lights...my unit will be in the back of the room so it will not distract from the screen). If you could suggest or post a link/s to some *cool lights* or other mods I would appreciate it. When I spoke with their customer service rep, they showed me where to get the *custom plates on their website which I will definitely invest in at some point*.


*Check this out*. I have one of these at the top of my rack and it is fantastic. Wouldn't be without it. I throws enough light for me to see all the gear in my 42U rack, even in a totally black closet.

Here is the* manufacturer's site product page*.


----------



## jhughy2010

Trying to get a grasp on the necessary equipment/accessories I'll need for my small and humble rack build. 

I ordered a MA Black Laminate 16U (22" deep) rack from B&H. I intend to put a rack mountable Netgear POE switch in there along with a 4U server chassis (media server). I'm looking a the Rosewill R4000 case since it isn't very deep. 

Any thoughts? Is there a better case option (I like easy HDD access and full ATX motherboard/PSU compliance)? Also, what else would I need to get the case to pull out nicely and be easily accessible? Any rack rail recommendations? Rack shelf recommendations? 

How about patch panels? The switch is 16 ethernet ports. Pretty small but none the less I want it to look clean. 

Thanks guys!


----------



## jhughy2010

Trying to get a grasp on the necessary equipment/accessories I'll need for my small and humble rack build. 

I ordered a MA Black Laminate 16U (22" deep) rack from B&H. I intend to put a rack mountable Netgear POE switch in there along with a 4U server chassis (media server). I'm looking a the Rosewill R4000 case since it isn't very deep. 

Any thoughts? Is there a better case option (I like easy HDD access and full ATX motherboard/PSU compliance)? Also, what else would I need to get the case to pull out nicely and be easily accessible? Any rack rail recommendations? Rack shelf recommendations? 

How about patch panels? The switch is 16 ethernet ports. Pretty small but none the less I want it to look clean. 

Thanks guys!


----------



## wiley165

jhughy2010 said:


> Trying to get a grasp on the necessary equipment/accessories I'll need for my small and humble rack build.
> 
> I ordered a MA Black Laminate 16U (22" deep) rack from B&H. I intend to put a rack mountable Netgear POE switch in there along with a 4U server chassis (media server). I'm looking a the Rosewill R4000 case since it isn't very deep.
> 
> Any thoughts? Is there a better case option (I like easy HDD access and full ATX motherboard/PSU compliance)? Also, what else would I need to get the case to pull out nicely and be easily accessible? Any rack rail recommendations? Rack shelf recommendations?
> 
> How about patch panels? The switch is 16 ethernet ports. Pretty small but none the less I want it to look clean.
> 
> Thanks guys!


I have the RSV-R4500 case (same enclosure size, just different drive mounting cages), and I have mine on an adjustable StarTech Rack, attached with the Rosewill Rail Kit. The chassis is big/long, and I will assume that it will extrude out the backside of your MA Rack. I have a few shelves (Fixed and adjustable) and a monitor mount - mostly StarTech branded (good quality and price) - but I have yet to purchase spacer panels as it is still a work in progress.

The nice thing about this deep/adjustable rack is that I can place my server/network equipment on one side of the rack (access in utility room), and A/V equipment on the other side (access from "Home Theater"). The StarTech 42U rack is a pretty heavy duty rack.

If you insist on full size ATX Mobo chassis, you are looking at a pretty big chassis. Look at the chassis options from iStarUSA. They have a fairly wide variety of server chassis at different price ranges. Even if you don't like the hard drive options embedded in the case, you can always add drive cages along the way. I opted to use Norco Hot swap cages in my Rosewill chassis.


----------



## jhughy2010

wiley165 said:


> I have the RSV-R4500 case (same enclosure size, just different drive mounting cages), and I have mine on an adjustable StarTech Rack, attached with the Rosewill Rail Kit. The chassis is big/long, and I will assume that it will extrude out the backside of your MA Rack. I have a few shelves (Fixed and adjustable) and a monitor mount - mostly StarTech branded (good quality and price) - but I have yet to purchase spacer panels as it is still a work in progress.
> 
> The nice thing about this deep/adjustable rack is that I can place my server/network equipment on one side of the rack (access in utility room), and A/V equipment on the other side (access from "Home Theater"). The StarTech 42U rack is a pretty heavy duty rack.
> 
> If you insist on full size ATX Mobo chassis, you are looking at a pretty big chassis. Look at the chassis options from iStarUSA. They have a fairly wide variety of server chassis at different price ranges. Even if you don't like the hard drive options embedded in the case, you can always add drive cages along the way. I opted to use Norco Hot swap cages in my Rosewill chassis.


Thanks wiley you've always been very helpful! I'm interested to see some pics of your set-up!

Are you sure the R4000 is the same length as your case? From the pictures and description it looks a few inches smaller in length. I definitely don't want it to extend out the rear of the rack. The racks purpose will be to house the server and network gear but since it will be in an open area for full view aesthetics are important to me. 

I'm assuming I'll be able to mix in some StarTech gear (their prices seem very reasonable) like shelves and drawers with an MA rack cabinet? Should be compatible right? The MA stuff seems a bit over priced.


----------



## wiley165

jhughy2010 said:


> Thanks wiley you've always been very helpful! I'm interested to see some pics of your set-up!
> 
> Are you sure the R4000 is the same length as your case? From the pictures and description it looks a few inches smaller in length. I definitely don't want it to extend out the rear of the rack. The racks purpose will be to house the server and network gear but since it will be in an open area for full view aesthetics are important to me.
> 
> I'm assuming I'll be able to mix in some StarTech gear (their prices seem very reasonable) like shelves and drawers with an MA rack cabinet? Should be compatible right? The MA stuff seems a bit over priced.


My Apologies, I assumed that you were referencing the older RSV-*L*4000, they do look exactly alike, and the RSV-L4000 and RSV-L4500 are the same size (25" deep), the one you selected (RSV-*R*4000) is right at 21" per the Amazon & NewEgg specs, so about 4 inches smaller. You'll have to test the included fans, but the possibility is that they will have to be replaced with quieter ones.

I'm under the impression that the MA mounts are standard, but I cannot confirm this myself. I agree that the MA gear (for my wallet) is overpriced. I can say that the StarTech branded pieces are of good quality.. I thankfully was able to get my 42U rack for $250 shipped - frame and casters.


----------



## jhughy2010

wiley165 said:


> My Apologies, I assumed that you were referencing the older RSV-*L*4000, they do look exactly alike, and the RSV-L4000 and RSV-L4500 are the same size (25" deep), the one you selected (RSV-*R*4000) is right at 21" per the Amazon & NewEgg specs, so about 4 inches smaller. You'll have to test the included fans, but the possibility is that they will have to be replaced with quieter ones.
> 
> I'm under the impression that the MA mounts are standard, but I cannot confirm this myself. I agree that the MA gear (for my wallet) is overpriced. I can say that the StarTech branded pieces are of good quality.. I thankfully was able to get my 42U rack for $250 shipped - frame and casters.


Oh man I really am liking the iStarUSA cases! They've really got some nice, durable, attractive looking enclosures. The R4000 comes with two removable drive cages for under $80 which is very nice. The cheapest iStarUSA cage that comes with hot swappable cages is around $200 shipped. I think I'll do some more research and determine if hot swappable cages really necessary. It looks like a case without hot swappable cases is priced comparable to Rosewill, however, I know I'd end up wanting to add the cages thus adding to the cost. 

Anyhow, just added this iStarUSA case to my short list. I like how it comes with a few cages, looks like it has a dust filter, and is very attractive. I wonder if it would be easy to replace the HDD cage fans with quieter Noctua fans?


----------



## MalevolentHamster

Glimmie said:


> I would go with the Mid Atlantic. They are a professional rack manufacture and have probably the most extensive catalog of rack accessories. As for custom faceplates, yes Mid Atlantic offers this service.
> 
> IME, Sanus is more of an AV furniture manufacture. Now that could be a better option if the rack is to be exposed in a room. The Mid Atlantic, being a professional rack, does look rather industrial.
> 
> If being built flush into a wall, the Mid Atlantic is the best choice by far.


I have a sanus component series. Very good and WAY cheaper than MA


----------



## ereed

lynchmob723 said:


> Of equipment of course. Preferably in theater/room
> 
> 
> Im looking for ideas/pictures
> 
> 
> Such as:
> 
> Behind the bar rack
> 
> In a side wall
> 
> Underneath the screen
> 
> Etc.....
> 
> 
> If time allows, comment on why you choose to do it the way you did
> 
> 
> Thanks


First time posting a picture. The picture is actually vertical but when I drag the picture to AVS as attachment it rotates on its side. Here is my equipment rack in my living room.


----------



## rms8

ereed said:


> First time posting a picture. The picture is actually vertical but when I drag the picture to AVS as attachment it rotates on its side. Here is my equipment rack in my living room.



Pic not working, for me at least. (it's not enlarging).


.


----------



## jevans64

I put my gear in the thingy I made today.

Top left is Oppo BDP103D with Roku 4 and Harmony hub on top. Top middle is the DefTech CLR3000 center. Top right is the Dish VIP 722 DVR. Bottom left is the Emotiva XPA-7 amp. Bottom middle is the Denon AVR-X7200WA AVR. Bottom right is the Emotiva XPR-5 amp. I have NO idea what I'm going to do with the rat's nest of cables behind it. I'm going to order some cable management clips that snap into the groove in the 80/20.


----------



## azz7686

^^^Nice Thingy you built there,lol


----------



## Adream2018

MalevolentHamster said:


> I have a sanus component series. Very good and WAY cheaper than MA


It was $638 for 55" Sanus CFR2127 and $652 for 55" Mid Atlantic RCS-2724 with fans. I went with the MA because it was deeply discounted. It is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Can't wait.


----------



## ereed

rms8 said:


> Pic not working, for me at least. (it's not enlarging).
> 
> 
> .


Ok, should be working now.


----------



## Adream2018

The rack arrived last night. Is there a preferred order of stacking the components?

I saw in one thread they recommended placing the equipment that produces the most heat at the top. So, for me that would be my AT6005 amp on top, my AT6004 amp below that, my cable box and then my Monster Power on the bottom shelf.

In another thread they recommended placing the heaviest components on the bottom. Which for me would be the exact opposite order described above.

Thanks


----------



## Adream2018

delete duplicate


----------



## BllDo

Tonycpa2004 said:


> The rack arrived last night. Is there a preferred order of stacking the components?
> 
> I saw in one thread they recommended placing the equipment that produces the most heat at the top. So, for me that would be my AT6005 amp on top, my AT6004 amp below that, my cable box and then my Monster Power on the bottom shelf.
> 
> In another thread they recommended placing the heaviest components on the bottom. Which for me would be the exact opposite order described above.


You want to put your amps in the bottom so that the rack won't tip over and hurt someone or worse damage your equipment. 



> I bought 2 heavy duty shelves that slide out to hold each amp. The shelves recommended by MA.
> 
> Thanks


This sounds like a terrible idea. Why would you ever need to slide your amps out?


----------



## kbarnes701

BllDo said:


> You want to put your amps in the bottom so that the rack won't tip over and hurt someone *or worse damage your equipment*.


LOL. Good to see a man who's got his priorities right  I agree - heavy amps on top make the whole rack unstable.




BllDo said:


> This sounds like a terrible idea. Why would you ever need to slide your amps out?


Yeah - what an odd idea.


----------



## MalevolentHamster

Tonycpa2004 said:


> The rack arrived last night. Is there a preferred order of stacking the components?
> 
> I saw in one thread they recommended placing the equipment that produces the most heat at the top. So, for me that would be my AT6005 amp on top, my AT6004 amp below that, my cable box and then my Monster Power on the bottom shelf.
> 
> In another thread they recommended placing the heaviest components on the bottom. Which for me would be the exact opposite order described above.
> 
> I bought 2 heavy duty shelves that slide out to hold each amp. The shelves recommended by MA.
> 
> Thanks


There should be stabilizer feet to stop it tipping over. Hottest stuff goes at top


----------



## BllDo

MalevolentHamster said:


> There should be stabilizer feet to stop it tipping over. Hottest stuff goes at top


Putting heavy equipment at the top of a rack that is not permanently installed is very dangerous. Nothing will absolutely keep it tipping except proper loading or screwing into a wall. From the Tripplite white paper on rack basics page 7



> The weight of your equipment must not exceed the rack’s load rating. Always place the heaviest equipment, such as UPS
> systems and external battery packs, toward the bottom of the rack. This prevents the rack from becoming top-heavy and
> prone to tipping over...


Heat can be managed with fans or proper ventilation. It's not worth making the rack unstable by placing the amps at the top. Further from a functionality standpoint, the equipment that needs the most interation like the receiver/pre-pro and blu ray player should be towards the top so that you can access them easier. It doesn't make any sense to put an amp at the top of the rack and the disc players at the very bottom.


----------



## Adream2018

The responses above are a good example of what I was talking about originally. Some forum members think the equipment that produces the most heat (amps) should be on top and some think the heaviest equipment (amps) should be on bottom.

So, I called the technical experts at Middle Atlantic and some other companies. They confirmed I should place the heaviest equipment at the bottom of the rack.

When I pointed out my heaviest equipment, my amps, produce the most heat. They said with the heat they produce and the fans in the rack the heat will go up the back of the rack and out. They recommend placing the amps at the bottom even though they produce the most heat.

I will place my amps on the bottom of the rack. So, from bottom to top, I will have my AT6005, AT4006, Denon AVR-X5200W, Monster Power and Cable box.


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> This sounds like a terrible idea. Why would you ever need to slide your amps out?





kbarnes701 said:


> Yeah - what an odd idea.


I don't remember saying I would be sliding the amps out. 

When I ordered the rack, I informed MA that I need shelves that support more weigh than the shelves that come with the RCS-2724. The shelves they recommended support up to 400-500lbs. (I only need it to support 130lbs.) and have the ability to slide out. 

I'm sure you both have many AV components that have certain features that you may not use.

*Source Middle Atlantic*:
http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...elescoping-heavy-duty-rackshelf/vsa-1626.aspx


----------



## BllDo

Tonycpa2004 said:


> I don't remember saying I would be sliding the amps out. When I ordered the rack, I informed MA that I need shelves that support more weigh than the shelves that come with the RCS-2724. The shelves they recommended support up to 400-500lbs. (I only need it to support 130lbs.) and have the ability to slide out.
> 
> *Source Middle Atlantic*:
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...elescoping-heavy-duty-rackshelf/vsa-1626.aspx


Ah, I see. Those are not "slide out" racks, they are telescoping racks that can fit racks of different depths. MA and other manufactures make shelves that actually do slide out of your rack. Say if you had a turntable that you wanted to rack mount for some reason. You could get a shelf for that that would physically pull out of your rack to access the platter and tone arm. When you said slide out, I was assuming that was what you were talking about. No, that shelf will be perfect for your amps.


----------



## BllDo

Tonycpa2004 said:


> The responses above are a good example of what I was talking about originally. Some forum members think the equipment that produces the most heat (amps) should be on top and some think the heaviest equipment (amps) should be on bottom.
> 
> So, I called the technical experts at Middle Atlantic and some other companies. They confirmed I should place the heaviest equipment at the bottom of the rack.
> 
> When I pointed out my heaviest equipment, my amps, produce the most heat. They said with the heat they produce and the fans in the rack the heat will go up the back of the rack and out. They recommend placing the amps at the bottom even though they produce the most heat.


MA has extremely good customer service. I've been very pleased in my conversations with them.


----------



## Adream2018

Ah, I see where the confusion came from. I am new to AV racks so I didn't know there is a difference between racks that slide out and those that are telescopic. I first saw these heavy duty racks in post 2495 of this thread where it was recommended for heavy amps. When I called MA to order my rack, I did not mention these racks to them. I just asked for the best solution and they provided the same answer.

Anyway, thanks for your input, I appreciate the help. You were correct about placing the heavies equipment at the bottom of the rack, even if that equipment produces the most heat. MA said that's the best practice.


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> MA has extermely good customer service. I've been very pleased in my conversations with them.
> 
> Do you mean bottom to top?


Oh yes, I meant from bottom to top. I will go edit that post.


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> Ah, I see. Those are not "slide out" racks, they are telescoping racks that can fit racks of different depths. MA and other manufactures make shelves that actually do slide out of your rack. Say if you had a turntable that you wanted to rack mount for some reason. You could get a shelf for that that would physically pull out of your rack to access the platter and tone arm. When you said slide out, I was assuming that was what you were talking about. No, that shelf will be perfect for your amps.


Thanks for confirming I got the right shelves. Because I also saw posts where forum members were saying slide out racks would never hold heavy equipment and as you can tell that would confuse the hell out of someone new to AV racks like me. 

I can see that slide out rack you posted definitely would not support heavy weight.

Anyway, I'm just glad I got the right shelves because I plan on working on moving all my AV equipment that currently sits on a TV stand under my projection screen from the front of my room to my AV rack which I have in the back of the room tonight and start running speaker wires this weekend.

HAve a great weekend everyone!


----------



## BllDo

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Anyway, I'm just glad I got the right shelves because I plan on working on moving all my AV equipment that currently sits on a TV stand under my projection screen from the front of my room to my AV rack which I have in the back of the room tonight and start running speaker wires this weekend.
> 
> HAve a great weekend everyone!


Pics or it didn't happen...just sayin.


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> MA has extremely good customer service. I've been very pleased in my conversations with them.


I am also very satisfied with them. Everyone I spoke with over there is very professional and helpful.

Very happy I chose the MA rack over the Sanus. The MA 55" rack that I got is usually somewhere around $400 more than the Sanus 55". So, when I saw the MA for the same price and saw the recommendations from the guys in this thread, I pulled the trigger right away.

I am very happy with the way the MA RCS-2724 looks as well. Very please.

I've been into home theater for over 30 years. When I was in my teens, I used to have AV racks but nothing like MA of course. I used them for many years but then switched to putting my equipment on the TV stand which looks very nice.

Now that I am upgrading everything and building my dream room, it made a lot of sense to get this AV rack. It eliminates all the clutter of wires under the screen, it removes all the lights of the equipment, but most importantly it allows me to use an RF7 II as my center channel...so now my LCR all match. 

It's so awesome. I find myself smiling uncontrollably every night. It is a lot of work tearing down the room and positioning, measuring, connecting and calibrating everything over and over though.

The guys on this forum have taught me much. I have learned, forgotten and re-learned rules, tips and tricks of home theater so many times over the last 3 decades.

It's worth spending the time to talk to the guys on here though because all the tips and tricks, no matter how insignificant they may seem, are very significant when they are all implemented.


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> Pics or it didn't happen...just sayin.


Yes, I'll be back to post once the RF7 II center channel is in position behind the screen and I have the equipment in the rack. Just ordered the AT6005 an hour ago. Also, scheduled the electrician to upgrade to a 200amp service, 200amp panel and install 4 dedicated 20A circuits for the amps. He is coming on Wednesday. Woo hoo!

I also moved those subs under the screen already. They are now stacked in the front corners of the room. That's another thing I recently learned when using 4 or more subs (I have 6 with the arrival of the 2 PSA V3600i I got last week) it's best to limit to 4 positions in the room.


----------



## rviele

*show me your rack*



Tonycpa2004 said:


> I am also very satisfied with them. Everyone I spoke with over there is very professional and helpful.
> 
> Very happy I chose the MA rack over the Sanus. The MA 55" rack that I got is usually somewhere around $400 more than the Sanus 55". So, when I saw the MA for the same price and saw the recommendations from the guys in this thread, I pulled the trigger right away.
> 
> I am very happy with the way the MA RCS-2724 looks as well. Very please.
> 
> I've been into home theater for over 30 years. When I was in my teens, I used to have AV racks but nothing like MA of course. I used them for many years but then switched to putting my equipment on the TV stand which looks very nice.
> 
> Now that I am upgrading everything and building my dream room, it made a lot of sense to get this AV rack. It eliminates all the clutter of wires under the screen, it removes all the lights of the equipment, but most importantly it allows me to use an RF7 II as my center channel...so now my LCR all match.
> 
> It's so awesome. I find myself smiling uncontrollably every night. It is a lot of work tearing down the room and positioning, measuring, connecting and calibrating everything over and over though.
> 
> The guys on this forum have taught me much. I have learned, forgotten and re-learned rules, tips and tricks of home theater so many times over the last 3 decades.
> 
> It's worth spending the time to talk to the guys on here though because all the tips and tricks, no matter how insignificant they may seem, are very significant when they are all implemented.


thats what i tell my girlfriend everyday


----------



## 1UCLAman

My home is still a work in progress as you can see from some of the pics. My family is not a huge HT family as we do not spend hours in front of the TV but I wanted some sophisticated and professional looking since the home was being remodeled. Cleaned up the "man cave"/storage area. Still need some help with the mess of wires but I will be getting a new receiver in the very near future so I am not fussing over the wires for now.


----------



## Pain Infliction

1UCLAman said:


> My home is still a work in progress as you can see from some of the pics. My family is not a huge HT family as we do not spend hours in front of the TV but I wanted some sophisticated and professional looking since the home was being remodeled. Cleaned up the "man cave"/storage area. Still need some help with the mess of wires but I will be getting a new receiver in the very near future so I am not fussing over the wires for now.


That looks really good! I couldn't even tell there was a door there!


----------



## dylanhuber

HI All -


This is the rack I just finished putting together. Its not just for the theater.. but for the whole house. 
System consists of 2 TiVo Roamio Pro's. 3 TiVo Bolts, 13 TiVo Mini's (locally mounted at TV location), 1 Sony STR-za1000es, 1 Sony STR-za3000es (for theater), 1 Def-Tech SubAmp for theater, 2 rack-located Apple TV's (4th gen), 14 Apple TV's locally mounted at TV location, 1 Sony BDP-S7200 BluRay player for theater, 5 Sonos connects, 15 Sonos Connect Amps, and 2 Episode 12 Channel amps for Outside Patio music zones. 


I'm pretty happy with how it turned out :


----------



## Neurorad

dylanhuber said:


> HI All -
> 
> 
> This is the rack I just finished putting together. Its not just for the theater.. but for the whole house.
> System consists of 2 TiVo Roamio Pro's. 3 TiVo Bolts, 13 TiVo Mini's (locally mounted at TV location), 1 Sony STR-za1000es, 1 Sony STR-za3000es (for theater), 1 Def-Tech SubAmp for theater, 2 rack-located Apple TV's (4th gen), 14 Apple TV's locally mounted at TV location, 1 Sony BDP-S7200 BluRay player for theater, 5 Sonos connects, 15 Sonos Connect Amps, and 2 Episode 12 Channel amps for Outside Patio music zones.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty happy with how it turned out :


Very impressive. Any pics of the back of the racks?


----------



## dylanhuber

Neurorad said:


> Very impressive. Any pics of the back of the racks?


Yes! Not the best pics... but it gives an idea.


The first pic is a shot of behind the video rack (left rack with TiVo and Receivers etc) This one could def be cleaner... but we were running out of steam / time. I want to organize it more this week. 










These are a few shots behind the SONOS Rack : 







(warped because iPhone panorama, also this was taken before the final organizing of power wires. see image below) 












Here you can see that we made cut-to-length cat6 runs to each sonos component


This system works faster than any other SONOS install we've ever done. I think that's partially due to each sonos component being hardwired to the same switch, but also having a very high end wireless network installed. We used hardware from a company called Ruckus Wireless for the wifi. Could not be happier. 
Download speeds of 115mbps can be achieved throughout the entire 20k sq/ft estate on iPhones. Pretty epic


----------



## Superfluous

dylanhuber said:


> Yes! Not the best pics... but it gives an idea.
> 
> 
> The first pic is a shot of behind the video rack (left rack with TiVo and Receivers etc) This one could def be cleaner... but we were running out of steam / time. I want to organize it more this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are a few shots behind the SONOS Rack :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (warped because iPhone panorama, also this was taken before the final organizing of power wires. see image below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see that we made cut-to-length cat6 runs to each sonos component
> 
> 
> This system works faster than any other SONOS install we've ever done. I think that's partially due to each sonos component being hardwired to the same switch, but also having a very high end wireless network installed. We used hardware from a company called Ruckus Wireless for the wifi. Could not be happier.
> Download speeds of 115mbps can be achieved throughout the entire 20k sq/ft estate on iPhones. Pretty epic




That looks like $10k worth of Sonos equipment...


----------



## dylanhuber

Superfluous said:


> That looks like $10k worth of Sonos equipment...


Yeah pretty much. Between Sonos components, the multiroom amps, and all the outdoor speakers / subs.... I think its closer to $20k of audio gear.


----------



## Neurorad

How about the racks, lacing bars, fans, PDUs - those add up quickly, too.

I would suggest switching to black Velcro straps, from the zip ties. Similarly, I would prefer black cables inside the rack, or colored, but not white. Those white Sonos power cables are also pretty ugly, but I like the way you bundled them. I can't think of a good solution for those, other than slotted wiring duct mounted to the lacing bars (or rack mount Panduit PatchLink Horizontal slotted duct, ridiculously expensive). Since the clients don't care, I definitely wouldn't use them; added cost and labor. I think your neat bundles are a great solution!


----------



## kitti

Neurorad said:


> Those white Sonos power cables are also pretty ugly, but I like the way you bundled them. I can't think of a good solution for those, other than slotted wiring duct mounted to the lacing bars...


Short cables could help. Also, black is easier to hide.


----------



## williams97

This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen


----------



## kbarnes701

williams97 said:


> This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen


Beautifully wired.


----------



## jhughy2010

Great job williams97!


----------



## damelon

williams97 said:


> This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen


People who do beautiful wiring like this are the reason why I don't post photos of the back of my rack unit! Hahaha! Nice job!


----------



## MalevolentHamster

Nice job, but so you really want to see all those blue lights when you're watching a movie?


----------



## Adream2018

BllDo said:


> Pics or it didn't happen...just sayin.


^^^Just arrived about half an hour ago.

Here is a teaser photo until I have more time.

ATI AT4006 second shelf from bottom and AT6005 on the bottom shelf.

[URL="http://[/URL]


----------



## toddman36

williams97 said:


> This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen


Jesus thats some thick speaker wire, and rca's! What brand is it?


----------



## jautor

MalevolentHamster said:


> Nice job, but so you really want to see all those blue lights when you're watching a movie?


http://www.lightdims.com/

They work!


----------



## azz7686

My updated rack (new equipment) This is pulled out of my closet makes for easy management!


----------



## Adream2018

Tonycpa2004 said:


> ^^^Just arrived about half an hour ago.
> 
> Here is a teaser photo until I have more time.
> 
> ATI AT4006 second shelf from bottom and AT6005 on the bottom shelf.
> 
> [URL="http://[/URL]


Here's a couple more photos with the logo on/off. Both amps come with optional rack ears. So, you can mount the amp without rack ears and the amp simply rests on the heavy duty shelf behind the vertical bars inside the AV rack or with rack ears and the amp still rests on the heavy duty shelf but the is now forward more so the ears are in front of the vertical bars inside the AV rack which gives you more clearance in the back in case you want to keep the rear of the rack enclosure on (so no wires show).

*ATI AT6005 (300W RMS X 5 channels driven) with logo on*


*ATI AT6005 (300W RMS X 5 channels driven) with logo off*


*ATI AT4006 (200W RMS X 6 channels driven) with logo on*


*ATI AT4006 (200W RMS X 6 channels driven) with logo off*


I love the Middle Atlantic rack. Thanks to everyone that recommended MA over the Sanus option!

Hope everyone enjoys the Superbowl this weekend.


----------



## lovingdvd

*Racking for newbs!*

Hey guys - I'm getting ready to start building my first rack for a new dedicated room I've been working on. The rack will be in a separate adjacent room from the theater. I have a few general questions please:

1. What's a good amount of excess wire to leave at the rack? Too little will limit my ability to place the rack a little this way or that way and/or to pull it out to get behind it. Too much will wind up with gobs of rolled and tied wire at the rack which will be tremendously bulky and in the way, especially with the 12/4 speaker wire I'm using and 15 speakers plus 4 subs. I could leave excess in the unfinished joists in the room where the rack is, but that too will get quickly unwieldy with 21 wires rolled up to store an excess X feet in the joists...

2. I'm not sure exactly where in the 43RU rack I'll have the amps, but probably about 1/3 of the way up, with the power isolation transformer taking up several RU on the bottom. Do folks typically run the speaker wires to the floor, then back up to the amp? Or straight down to the amp without passing it. Again this brings up questions like #1 above where I'm trying to figure out how to leave slack for easy maintenance or reordering of equipment in the rack in the future.

3. I have no clue about techniques for racking, routing the wires into the rack, ganging wires and cable management in general. Are there any resources, manuals, videos etc that you know of that would be a good primer? I am planning to use the Middle Atlantic BGR series rack which has come highly recommended to me.

Thanks!


----------



## Neurorad

I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.

This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?19075

For me, lacing bars make a big difference.


----------



## MalevolentHamster

Neurorad said:


> I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.
> 
> This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?19075
> 
> For me, lacing bars make a big difference.


+1 on lacing bars


----------



## lovingdvd

Neurorad said:


> I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.
> 
> This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?19075
> 
> For me, lacing bars make a big difference.


Thanks. I will check out the thread. Leaving the slack in the ceiling joists would be "OK" for future needs such as if I needed to relocate the rack a bit. However it wouldn't be conducive to pulling out the rack to work on the back of it...

I'm leaving about 10 extra feet of wire at the rack. I see all these beautifully wired racks where there is a main trunk line with a dozen+ speaker wires nicely tied that comes down the ceiling and then turns toward the rack and branches off one line at a time into the amplifier. But alas where is the slack?? Doesn't look like that type of wiring job leaves room to pull the rack forward (my will be on wheels). I certainly don't want to leave the slack in a roll on the floor...

Here's an idea - maybe I will curl it up in a bundle put it on a hook on the back wall (like a garden hose) a foot behind the rack and then run it into the rack from there. This way when I need to pull the rack out I can remove the coil from the wall, then when I'm done just place the excess coil back on the hook.... Sound reasonable?


----------



## Neurorad

lovingdvd said:


> Thanks. I will check out the thread. Leaving the slack in the ceiling joists would be "OK" for future needs such as if I needed to relocate the rack a bit. However it wouldn't be conducive to pulling out the rack to work on the back of it...
> 
> I'm leaving about 10 extra feet of wire at the rack. I see all these beautifully wired racks where there is a main trunk line with a dozen+ speaker wires nicely tied that comes down the ceiling and then turns toward the rack and branches off one line at a time into the amplifier. But alas where is the slack?? Doesn't look like that type of wiring job leaves room to pull the rack forward (my will be on wheels). I certainly don't want to leave the slack in a roll on the floor...
> 
> Here's an idea - maybe I will curl it up in a bundle put it on a hook on the back wall (like a garden hose) a foot behind the rack and then run it into the rack from there. This way when I need to pull the rack out I can remove the coil from the wall, then when I'm done just place the excess coil back on the hook.... Sound reasonable?


Two different reasons to leave extra cable - to pull out the rack, and for future uses (moving components around). The future use 'service loops' get stuffed in the ceiling or wall (recessed low voltage enclosure/structured cabinet could be used, with a cover).

For moving the rack, you need to manage the single bundle (or multiple bundles) of cables running from the ceiling or wall to the rack. You could coil the extra cable on the top of the rack, or use the first few rack spaces. Or, the bundle hangs low (from the ceiling down to the floor), and enters the rack higher.

If coming into the rack from the wall, you can use a bungee cord (or tool/spring balancer) hanging from the top back of the rack to hang onto the middle of the cable bundle. Or, as you suggested, keep it simple and just hang the coil on a hook behind the rack.

Couple other related threads for you to consider:
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/25858-residental-w-rack;-wiring-question/?p=207071
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?37456

You could go nuts obsessing over details that few people (if any) would ever notice. Skip the rabbit hole, and just coil the extra at/near the top of the rack, if coming in from the ceiling. Bungee to the middle of the cable bundle if coming in from low on the wall. But, I would keep the service loops (extra cable for future use) when you can.


----------



## Adream2018

Finally got a breather now that busy season is over and decided to post a few updates of the MA RCS-2724 and some of the benefits of using an AV rack instead of a TV stand...


*I replaced my RC-64 II center speaker with an RF-7 II for the center channel. I replaced all speaker wire with Belden 10 gauge AWG 99.99% oxygen free multi-stranded speaker wire with Sewell Direct deadbolt banana plugs on both ends. 
*






*I stacked the four Klipsch R-115SW subs in the front of the room. So, they are all corner loaded in the front of the room (while the PSA V3600i dual 18" subs remain corner loaded in the back of the room). All 6 subs are hooked up using SVS Soundpath interconnects.*





*I got rid of the TV stand and replaced it with a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-2724 rack with fans. It is placed in the back of the room to: a) eliminate distracting lights in the front of the room, b) remove all wires, clutter and audio equipment from under the screen and c) allow all HDMI connections to decrease from 50' to under 5' (since the Epson projector is in the back of the room). The Denon AVR-X5200W is now connected to my Asus router using Vandesail CAT 7 high-speed twisted pair copper wires. The Optimum cable box and Modem are connected to the wall using Mediabridge Ultra series coaxial cables. The PS4, Amazon FireTV, Optimum cable box and Epson projector are connected to the Denon using Mediabridge Ultra Series HDMI cables.* 

*I had an electrician re-wire the room for a 200amp meter upgrade panel and 5 dedicated 20amp circuits (1 for each of my PSA V3600i subs, 2 for my ATI AT6005 amp and 1 for my ATI AT4006 amp). Both of my Morris Kessler Signature Series amps are placed on heavy duty telescopic shelves. * 




*I used a variety of cable management solutions in the room including: a) Legrand cable raceways, b) split loom tubing, c) Velcro one-wrap thin self-gripping cable ties and d) Gaffer Power professional premium grade tape. I also built a custom platform in front of the main entrance to the room, so all wires coming from the left side of the room to the AV rack would remain separated and hidden. I used Velcro industrial strength strips to secure the platform to the floor to provide cushioning and to allow the platform to easily be lifted in case I need to access the wires in the future.*



Much more still to come including: 1) room acoustics, 2) audio calibration using Audyssey and manual adjustments and 3) video calibration. As previously mentioned a few room acoustic basics already incorporated in the room include: a) recliners are placed equidistant between the side walls, several feet from the rear wall and equal distance from the screen to the front main speakers, b) window is covered by thermal insulated blackout curtain to contain all light and prevent sound from reflecting off the glass, c) rug to absorb and prevent reflections from the floor, d) 5' tall bookshelves on both side walls, e) the use of Audyssey room correction software, etc etc. 

Today, I will be wrapping Auralex acoustics ISO Series MoPad-XL monitor acoustic isolation pads in black (I don't know why they only make them in grey). These pads will angle all 6 RB-81 II bookshelf speakers downward toward the listening position as well as improve the sound by decreasing resonance.


----------



## mconner

Here is mine:


----------



## robertintemple

I was approached by a client due to the previous installer just not caring. Their rack was a nightmare and things were constantly failing due to the mess. There is a satellite box just sitting on top of the rack. I offered to clean things up and upgrade some of the older equipment.

Here's what I was given:

















































Yeah, file that under How Not To Manage Wiring In A Rack. It was never done right in the first place and then additions/service calls added wire without taking any of the bad wire out. There were interconnects in there not connected to anything. Whenever the rack was moved things would stop working around the house.

Step one for me was to pull every single wire out of the rack and take all the equipment out to start with a bare rack. Equipment was racked logically and vent plates and blanks were installed for aesthetics (it's an open rack so airflow isn't an issue).

Here's what I ended up with:


























Needless to say the customer is VERY happy and now wants the rest of the house upgraded, including a dedicated theater room. Needless to say I'M VERY happy.


----------



## wkearney99

I'd be tempted to use some D-rings or J-hooks on the wall next to the wire bundles to provide a bit of strain relief. Bolt the straight into the stud. Then rest the bundle through one of those and put a velcro strap around it to help carry the load (and keep it off the connectors).

This right here is the real win:


> Needless to say the customer is VERY happy and now wants the rest of the house upgraded, including a dedicated theater room. Needless to say I'M VERY happy.


----------



## Paulo72

Art Sonneborn said:


> Here are a couple:


 Can I try out those racks for 30 days trial period?


----------



## cdika17

The beginning of my budget friendly setup. Biggest thing is the shelving are a tad to small so I have to load my equipment from the side which isn't the most ideal but gets me by. If i manage everything correctly then I can have the inside rack all equip and then add casters to the 2nd so i can roll to the side if i need to pull something out. If i went to the next size shelving, it would of been too wide and i wouldn't be able to access the back side.

Good for air movement and should be able to come up with some decent cable management.


----------



## HIFIJIM70

Obviously, the rear of my h.t. rack is NOT a work of art like some on this forum. That said, I chose to invest my time and energy on what counts the most . . . the quality of the experience. My theater has surpassed all initial goals and is just a great place for my family and I to be. 

Also, it invokes the fight or flight response when at reference which is a necessary feature.


----------



## psychdoc

Ok, I'll play  I just finished my theater and had some high quality pics taken of everything. Racks are always in a state of being upgraded but here are mine, at least for the time being..... Cheers everyone.



Four Bryston amps with 12 channels of amplification and one Parasound amp with 5 channels






Kaleidescape Premier system, Torus Power, Panamax UPS, Control4, Marantz (to be upgraded to likely Trinnov Altitude), Pakedge, Oppo and more...



Here is the entrance to my theater: gasket sealed, solid double mahogany doors. Final photos just uploaded at my link below if anyone cares to see it... Have a great day all


----------



## tgrinch

Some great pics here - I'm working on my first rack which is a MA BGR 41U. All runs (network/video/WHA/etc.) in the home will feed into the rack. 


On the network side, I have about 50 runs of Cat 6 coming into the rack from the top which will terminate to a patch panel that is on the front/top of the rack. Does anyone have any pictures of the backside, coming into the patch panel?


My general plan is to use 1 or 2 KO's at the top of the rack and run the main "bundle" of cables on the top/high side of the rack (one side only) and then terminate. I know this should be pretty simple, but wanted to see how the pros were doing this (or any suggestions)? Another thought would be to split the bundle (say, 25 on the left, 25 on the right) and then terminate in - but was also considering keeping the network drops on one side of the rack and power on the other. Any thoughts would be appreciated!


----------



## Glimmie

HIFIJIM70 said:


> Obviously, the rear of my h.t. rack is NOT a work of art like some on this forum. That said, I chose to invest my time and energy on what counts the most . . . the quality of the experience. My theater has surpassed all initial goals and is just a great place for my family and I to be.
> 
> Also, it invokes the fight or flight response when at reference which is a necessary feature.


12ga Romex for speaker wire!

Here's somebody that gets it! When it comes to speakers, plain old copper wire is all you need!

Personally I used generic 14/12/10ga stranded speaker wire from Parts Express and Monoprice, but the same idea - basic old copper wire that is thick enough for the current demands and length loss.


----------



## cdika17

tgrinch said:


> Some great pics here - I'm working on my first rack which is a MA BGR 41U. All runs (network/video/WHA/etc.) in the home will feed into the rack.
> 
> 
> On the network side, I have about 50 runs of Cat 6 coming into the rack from the top which will terminate to a patch panel that is on the front/top of the rack. Does anyone have any pictures of the backside, coming into the patch panel?
> 
> 
> My general plan is to use 1 or 2 KO's at the top of the rack and run the main "bundle" of cables on the top/high side of the rack (one side only) and then terminate. I know this should be pretty simple, but wanted to see how the pros were doing this (or any suggestions)? Another thought would be to split the bundle (say, 25 on the left, 25 on the right) and then terminate in - but was also considering keeping the network drops on one side of the rack and power on the other. Any thoughts would be appreciated!


I am at that stage right now too and eagerly await some insight.


----------



## Moebius

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Finally got a breather now that busy season is over and decided to post a few updates of the MA RCS-2724 and some of the benefits of using an AV rack instead of a TV stand...
> 
> 
> I replaced my RC-64 II center speaker with an RF-7 II for the center channel. I replaced all speaker wire with Belden 10 gauge AWG 99.99% oxygen free multi-stranded speaker wire with Sewell Direct deadbolt banana plugs on both ends.
> 
> I stacked the four Klipsch R-115SW subs in the front of the room. So, they are all corner loaded in the front of the room (while the PSA V3600i dual 18" subs remain corner loaded in the back of the room). All 6 subs are hooked up using SVS Soundpath interconnects.
> 
> 
> I got rid of the TV stand and replaced it with a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-2724 rack with fans. It is placed in the back of the room to: a) eliminate distracting lights in the front of the room, b) remove all wires, clutter and audio equipment from under the screen and c) allow all HDMI connections to decrease from 50' to under 5' (since the Epson projector is in the back of the room). The Denon AVR-X5200W is now connected to my Asus router using Vandesail CAT 7 high-speed twisted pair copper wires. The Optimum cable box and Modem are connected to the wall using Mediabridge Ultra series coaxial cables. The PS4, Amazon FireTV, Optimum cable box and Epson projector are connected to the Denon using Mediabridge Ultra Series HDMI cables.[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]
> 
> I had an electrician re-wire the room for a 200amp meter upgrade panel and 5 dedicated 20amp circuits (1 for each of my PSA V3600i subs, 2 for my ATI AT6005 amp and 1 for my ATI AT4006 amp). Both of my Morris Kessler Signature Series amps are placed on heavy duty telescopic shelves.
> 
> I used a variety of cable management solutions in the room including: a) Legrand cable raceways, b) split loom tubing, c) Velcro one-wrap thin self-gripping cable ties and d) Gaffer Power professional premium grade tape. I also built a custom platform in front of the main entrance to the room, so all wires coming from the left side of the room to the AV rack would remain separated and hidden. I used Velcro industrial strength strips to secure the platform to the floor to provide cushioning and to allow the platform to easily be lifted in case I need to access the wires in the future.
> 
> Much more still to come including: 1) room acoustics, 2) audio calibration using Audyssey and manual adjustments and 3) video calibration. As previously mentioned a few room acoustic basics already incorporated in the room include: a) recliners are placed equidistant between the side walls, several feet from the rear wall and equal distance from the screen to the front main speakers, b) window is covered by thermal insulated blackout curtain to contain all light and prevent sound from reflecting off the glass, c) rug to absorb and prevent reflections from the floor, d) 5' tall bookshelves on both side walls, e) the use of Audyssey room correction software, etc etc.
> 
> Today, I will be wrapping Auralex acoustics ISO Series MoPad-XL monitor acoustic isolation pads in black (I don't know why they only make them in grey). These pads will angle all 6 RB-81 II bookshelf speakers downward toward the listening position as well as improve the sound by decreasing resonance.



I just have to ask. Are we also using the Raspberry Sparkletini as sound absorption material?


----------



## anteroth

This is my rack video, was recommended i post it here for others!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Hi Just wondering what people think would be the best option for me and what I would need to get it done. This is my first house im building and i want to get it right because Im planning to live in it a long time. Also do you think i will beable to get the seats in with options C and D.


----------



## eng-399

Just added another toy to the rack with my new HTPC and another amp to power more subs.


----------



## lovingdvd

Does anyone here use a satellite rack? By that I mean a small rack somewhere in the room mainly for things that use removable media, such as gaming consoles, Blu-ray players and UHD players. My main rack will be located outside the room, and I had been planning to create a satellite rack. But I think I've talked myself out of it. Seems like within 5 years most if not everything I'd want to use may be streamed/downloaded and then I have the satellite rack not really being used and taking up space. Just curious what you guys think about this idea of having a satellite rack considering the future.


----------



## Tedd

I plan to take that approach to the extreme, in my next theater. 

My "satellite" rack will be an external (htpc) Bluray drive, in a backer box, disguised by the room's fabric framed walls. Add in an infrared 
repeater receiver, WiFi, and a Bluetooth receiver, and everything else goes in a hidden dedicated equipment room bordering the theater. 


And "everything else" might be seeing a big purge. Currently rebuilding the htpc to Intel 6700 statis, and I like the idea of a new 2550x1080P projector 
(versus 4K) and eliminating the Lumagen scaler/anamorphic lens/Anthem MRX510 (as prepro) and going with external DACs.


----------



## rejman-

Hi guys,

Iam new to this forum, found this thread first and wanted to show my rack, I took a closet (206x56x56cm) and screwed some wooden planks on the sides to get right measurements between the "walls" inside the closet. very cheap and nice solution that could once again be a closet in future if i want.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Hi, im trying to work out where i can position my rack. I have a few ideas in the photos but someone said maybe in the garage is an option. What would you do and why? Do you think it will be an issue for dust and cars to avoid. Cheers











Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk


----------



## popalock

hatlesschimp said:


>


Ha, this picture looks like the only way to enter your theater is from the outside...


----------



## hatlesschimp

popalock said:


> Ha, this picture looks like the only way to enter your theater is from the outside...


The door can be anywhere. That design your refering too was the first rough go at it. It was orginslly going to have big double doors on the hallway side.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk


----------



## Tedd

My first choice would be outside the room and look into an ir repeater system. 
(I gather that is the coat closet?) A Middle Atlantic Slim5 rack can be pretty compact at 
19 1/8" by 20" or 26" deep, and might not annex too much coat closet. 


But the av rack could be rotated and accessible to the room in that same spot.


----------



## TMcG

lovingdvd said:


> Does anyone here use a satellite rack? By that I mean a small rack somewhere in the room mainly for things that use removable media, such as gaming consoles, Blu-ray players and UHD players. My main rack will be located outside the room, and I had been planning to create a satellite rack. But I think I've talked myself out of it. Seems like within 5 years most if not everything I'd want to use may be streamed/downloaded and then I have the satellite rack not really being used and taking up space. Just curious what you guys think about this idea of having a satellite rack considering the future.


I have two large 44u racks and will be using a separate 22u Middle Atlantic AXS pull-out rack for the gaming consoles, Philips RGB LED lighting system, power protection and a few other pieces of equipment. The biggest challenge is knowing exactly what you plan to have in that rack from the beginning and cover any future upgrades either with conduit or extra wire because it's critically important this equipment in the satellite rack seamlessly integrate with equipment in the primary rack.


----------



## lovingdvd

TMcG said:


> I have two large 44u racks and will be using a separate 22u Middle Atlantic AXS pull-out rack for the gaming consoles, Philips RGB LED lighting system, power protection and a few other pieces of equipment. The biggest challenge is knowing exactly what you plan to have in that rack from the beginning and cover any future upgrades either with conduit or extra wire because it's critically important this equipment in the satellite rack seamlessly integrate with equipment in the primary rack.


Just to confirm you are talking about having this satellite rack inside your theater room, as opposed to separate from your main rack but no in the room? In my case I can easily get wires into where a satellite rack would go. I know in the short term I'd probably regret not having it, but in the longer term it may not turn out to be needed. How much longer is physical media going to be a part of things I wonder. And for movies on UHD/Blu-ray I would use Kaleidescape with a Strato and 4K drive that rips it once to the player or downloads it after verifying the physical copy.


----------



## dezufnoC

No games in my rack for now. Only sports, movies, and music allowed.


----------



## TMcG

lovingdvd said:


> Just to confirm you are talking about having this satellite rack inside your theater room, as opposed to separate from your main rack but no in the room? In my case I can easily get wires into where a satellite rack would go. I know in the short term I'd probably regret not having it, but in the longer term it may not turn out to be needed. How much longer is physical media going to be a part of things I wonder. And for movies on UHD/Blu-ray I would use Kaleidescape with a Strato and 4K drive that rips it once to the player or downloads it after verifying the physical copy.


Sort-of. It will be located on the other side of the theater wall in an area underneath the steps. I *could* put the satellite rack through the wall in a double layer soundproof back box that matches the construction of the theater shell so I would have access to it from the theater, but on second thought I decided there wasn't a hard-core reason to NEED access to the gaming system from the theater since everything is either ripped or streaming. I do have an alcove set aside for storing and charging controllers, 3D glasses, Buttkicker turn-off switches and everything else I want handy access to from inside the room.


----------



## wkearney99

Games in theater rooms will have issues if you can't get access to the front for motion cameras and the like. Extending USB3 is non-trivial for the Kinect sensor. It's one of those things worth planning for ahead of time.

The real question on rack placement is just what is it that'll require interaction, and who do you want to allow into the area? It's one thing for you do wander over to another room/garage/whatever to 'do something'. It's another to end up in a situation where kids are wandering through somewhere else. Thus sometimes it's worth considering having two setups, one for things "nobody's ever going to fiddle with" and another for game consoles, DVD players, etc. In my situation there's one rack, but the "never fiddle" gear will be rear-facing, while the rest faces into the theater. I'll still end up with an arrangement near the front for the Xbox & Kinect, but for that I'll just run CAT5, HDMI & IR repeating back to the rack.


----------



## TMcG

wkearney99 said:


> Games in theater rooms will have issues if you can't get access to the front for motion cameras and the like. Extending USB3 is non-trivial for the Kinect sensor. It's one of those things worth planning for ahead of time.
> 
> The real question on rack placement is just what is it that'll require interaction, and who do you want to allow into the area? It's one thing for you do wander over to another room/garage/whatever to 'do something'. It's another to end up in a situation where kids are wandering through somewhere else. Thus sometimes it's worth considering having two setups, one for things "nobody's ever going to fiddle with" and another for game consoles, DVD players, etc. In my situation there's one rack, but the "never fiddle" gear will be rear-facing, while the rest faces into the theater. I'll still end up with an arrangement near the front for the Xbox & Kinect, but for that I'll just run CAT5, HDMI & IR repeating back to the rack.


The primary reason for moving the gaming system to the satellite rack is that it would be in close physical proximity to the primary gaming area for better wireless strength for the controllers. The gaming system will be at the top of this rack and not surrounded by steel shelving as it would be in the center of the rack.

I have wiring run from this satellite rack to the front of the theater, including the proprietary extender cable for the PS4 camera, but I find the most difficulty with playing camera-based games in a front projection theater is that you either need the projector behind the screen, a very short throw projector set-up OR very high ceilings with sufficient vertical lens shift in the projector to make it work (for most games)....otherwise you are constantly creating your own shadow in front of the screen, assuming you use the area in front of the seating to interact with the game. Otherwise you're left with moving your seating out of the way each time which is hugely inconvenient. The camera can be good for voice commands and gesturing, but I wouldn't ever use it for gaming in my planned theater setup.


----------



## ElJefe22

some great looking racks in this thread, cant wait to get started on mine


----------



## lovingdvd

TMcG said:


> Sort-of. It will be located on the other side of the theater wall in an area underneath the steps. I *could* put the satellite rack through the wall in a double layer soundproof back box that matches the construction of the theater shell so I would have access to it from the theater, but on second thought I decided there wasn't a hard-core reason to NEED access to the gaming system from the theater since everything is either ripped or streaming. I do have an alcove set aside for storing and charging controllers, 3D glasses, Buttkicker turn-off switches and everything else I want handy access to from inside the room.


Right - in my case the primary motivation was to be able to put in a movie or game without leaving the room. But considering that the only location for this would involve going into the wall of the very noisy adjacent utility room, I didn't want to "go there".

I'll have a storage closet in the room (no gear) and pull out shelves under a built-in couch-bench where I can store misc stuff and gaming controllers. The AV controller/remote can go in the chair armrest. Tho it seems like it would be useful to have some sort of hidden panel or something to store some of this misc stuff in.

Tell me more about the Buttkicker switches. I hadn't thought of that.



wkearney99 said:


> Games in theater rooms will have issues if you can't get access to the front for motion cameras and the like. Extending USB3 is non-trivial for the Kinect sensor. It's one of those things worth planning for ahead of time.


Good point. I'm not interested in Kinect of a camera. But sometimes USB is needed, such as for games like Guitar Hero. I am putting two USB plugs in the riser that will run back to the equipment rack. What type of "live" / active USB cables should I use for this? The total run length would be about 40 feet. 

Also I am wondering - how well with the XBOX and PS4 wireless controllers work through the double layer DW? The rack will be in the adjacent room about 35 feet from the seating area. I know that 35 feet is in range, but not sure how well it'll work through the isolation shell. Is there some sort of extender? 



> The real question on rack placement is just what is it that'll require interaction, and who do you want to allow into the area? It's one thing for you do wander over to another room/garage/whatever to 'do something'. It's another to end up in a situation where kids are wandering through somewhere else. Thus sometimes it's worth considering having two setups, one for things "nobody's ever going to fiddle with" and another for game consoles, DVD players, etc.


That is an EXCELLENT point. "Hey what's this do?" when your not around, which can then take days (if ever!) to figure out what someone touched. 



> In my situation there's one rack, but the "never fiddle" gear will be rear-facing, while the rest faces into the theater. I'll still end up with an arrangement near the front for the Xbox & Kinect, but for that I'll just run CAT5, HDMI & IR repeating back to the rack.


Speaking of IR repeating... I forgot about that and am in the process of running low voltage stuff now. What type of wires should I be running to support that?


----------



## GreySkies

lovingdvd said:


> Speaking of IR repeating... I forgot about that and am in the process of running low voltage stuff now. What type of wires should I be running to support that?


Cat5 or cat6 work well.


----------



## hatlesschimp

So here is my latest rough plan for my rack and room. I love the idea of having access to the back. 









Here are some other options.









Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk


----------



## rontalley

williams97 said:


> This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen


Look at those wires! Huh what wires?...Those!!! Huh?...I don't see no freaking wires.
Wow!


----------



## TMcG

lovingdvd said:


> Speaking of IR repeating... I forgot about that and am in the process of running low voltage stuff now. What type of wires should I be running to support that?


IR repeating??? What's next, installing a Sony Betamax and a laser disc player?  I know your room and equipment....you can pony up the $150 minimum for an RF-based remote like the Logitech Harmony or a bit more for an IP-based remote running over your wireless LAN.

And don't let me hear you mention IR repeating anything again, mister!!!


----------



## Brent A

lovingdvd said:


> Also I am wondering - how well with the XBOX and PS4 wireless controllers work through the double layer DW? The rack will be in the adjacent room about 35 feet from the seating area. I know that 35 feet is in range, but not sure how well it'll work through the isolation shell. Is there some sort of extender?


 
I don't have an XBOX so I can't comment on that, but I have tested my PS3 & PS4 controllers from a distance of about 25 feet through walls and ceilings/floors and they still worked.


I have the two consoles in the rack in the basement theatre area where I have all of my equipment and DVR's. I feed the signals up to the living room and bedroom TV's. Occasionally my son will want to play one of them on the living room TV and it works well without any issues.


----------



## HiFiGuy1

hatlesschimp said:


> So here is my latest rough plan for my rack and room. I love the idea of having access to the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some other options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk


Can you go back to the original plan for the theater with no windows on the south wall? That will save you money, now and later, and make it easier to treat for acoustics and make aesthetically pleasing. Also, your rack placement looks good, but I would not have a penetration to the theater if you can avoid it. If you turn the rack 90 degrees, you can have the gear face into the theater's hallway entrance, and the back of the rack would face into the main entry hallway. Walling that space off to the left will help with convective cooling, because you're going to install a fan (right?) to draw air out of the top of the small AV rack closet. That also gives you a defined coat closet.

Making that wall continuous where the rack opening is now will also facilitate the front side effects speakers in a future Atmos upgrade. If you have a door to the rack there, it will make it more difficult to place those front sides.

Also, though it might look dramatic, it will be much better from an isolation standpoint if you will go to a single door, and center it where the current double door is located. That will make the hall narrower, which increases room in your Study, too.


----------



## Boomroom

Just gave my rack a little face lift.


----------



## tgrinch

Does anyone see issues having a rack PDU (horizontal) directly above a patch panel? Possible interference is my main concern...


----------



## jhughy2010

*Server & Networking Rack*

I finished up my server rack about a month ago. Here are some of the progress pictures as well as the final product. I went with the Middle Atlantic BRK16-22: 










The media server case; an iStar D Storm D-400-7P 4U Rackmount Server Chassis.










The sliding rack rails had to be mildly modified to fit. 










Here the media server has been transplanted from its former case, iStar Hot Swap bay added for the HDDs. The whole house Ethernet was also installed (I wish I would have taken pictures of how I did that... needless to say it took forever but is very very clean... complete with wall plates, etc.). Also, I grabbed a 24 port Netgear PoE smart switch. 

These next three pictures are the innards.... lots of cleaning up since:

























Finally, here is the finished product. I went with all MA panels and a drawer plus I did the wire management with a Neat Patch - patch panel:


----------



## Tedd

That's a pretty nice rack mount case and isn't very deep. May I enquire who makes it?


And that Neat-Patch is another great idea.


----------



## jhughy2010

Tedd said:


> That's a pretty nice rack mount case and isn't very deep. May I enquire who makes it?
> 
> 
> And that Neat-Patch is another great idea.


Thanks! iStarUSA has a ton of cases to choose from. I originally was going to go with the Rosewill case but after some consideration I decided to give iStarUSA a shot... very pleased with it so far. I swapped all the fans out for Noctua fans to keep the noise extremely low. The server rack is practically silent now. Temps in the case never exceed 60c either.


----------



## Tedd

Thanks, didn't recognize it as iStarUSA. 


Nice to have the feedback on the case, so thanks for that too!


----------



## kaotikr1

Went from this... 










To this...


----------



## KanosWRX

Right now I have a half height rack that sits in my unfinished space mostly, but has opening with a glass door to the HT so I can put disks in game systems and access the htpc. But I'm thinking of getting a new atmos/dtsx processor with seperate amps. But they are big and heavy, so I think I'll put this right below the rack that's accessible in the HT. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...olid=15YD40C50I2I7&coliid=I1OMXZA9XOU0AN&vs=1

Luckily when the original rack (see my build thread for some pics) was built it sat on the framing of the wall and nothing was below it on the backside in the unfinished space. So I have about 34" of space below it to put this. So it will almost be like having a full height rack but half is accessible in the HT the other half sits in the unfinished space.

Should be a good little satellite rack, can put the two amps and a pdu I am planning on buying in the satellite rack.


----------



## bombertodd

kaotikr1 said:


> Went from this...
> 
> ......
> 
> To this...


Is that a Middle Atlantic Essex rack?


----------



## kaotikr1

bombertodd said:


> Is that a Middle Atlantic Essex rack?


Yes it is. It's the RCS-3524.


----------



## baseball0618

here's the rack
apple TV most current version
airplay 
autonomic media server
Altona UHD pro3 44m matrix
oppo 103d
Integra dhc 80.6 receiver
RTI Ad-8x multi room controls
Integra DTA 70.1 amplifier


----------



## femi

@kaotikr1, I really like your old rack.
Why did you get it from?

Thanks
Femi


----------



## kaotikr1

femi said:


> @kaotikr1, I really like your old rack.
> Why did you get it from?
> 
> Thanks
> Femi


I believe it was racksandstands.com

Its the VTI BL-404 with a couple of extra added shelves.


----------



## JRock3x8

somewhat off topic...

does it matter which order the components go in on the rack?

I've seen a lot of people with their amps at the bottom and I'm just wondering if there's a logic to that or not?

I would assume you want anything where you have to load a disc to be belt to chest high.

Is there a best practice here or is it all personal preference?


----------



## markrubin

^^^

amps usually go at the bottom because they are heavy and makes speaker cable management easier: but you must allow for ventilation to deal with heat from the amp


----------



## jautor

JRock3x8 said:


> does it matter which order the components go in on the rack?
> 
> I've seen a lot of people with their amps at the bottom and I'm just wondering if there's a logic to that or not?
> 
> I would assume you want anything where you have to load a disc to be belt to chest high.
> 
> Is there a best practice here or is it all personal preference?


Amps should go on the bottom due to weight (safety / stability / easier!). You're correct that component you need to interact with should go chest-high so you can load media. Things with displays you have to control should go near eye level. Other than that, personal preference, arranged for thermal management and/or wherever the stuff will fit!


----------



## wkearney99

jautor said:


> Other than that, personal preference, arranged for thermal management and/or wherever the stuff will fit!


Yep, plan ahead for what you're actually going to _need _to interact with. Drive trays being the most common, but also drawers if there's remotes or other gear you want to stash out of sight. Don't forget to have lighting necessary to use the stuff. Either ambient (ceiling/sconce) or something on the rack itself. 

Just be sure not to pack heat-generating stuff too closely, or cut off the air flow it'll need. As in, don't put a solid shelf or drawer directly on top of an AVR, amp or game console that cranks out a lot of heat.


----------



## JRock3x8

yes my two big heat generators are the receiver and the xbox - the receiver will probably go close to the bottom and the xbox somewhere in the middle so plenty of gap...


----------



## big2bird

JRock3x8 said:


> somewhat off topic...
> 
> does it matter which order the components go in on the rack?
> 
> I've seen a lot of people with their amps at the bottom and I'm just wondering if there's a logic to that or not?
> 
> I would assume you want anything where you have to load a disc to be belt to chest high.
> 
> Is there a best practice here or is it all personal preference?


I prefer the signal path source at top , and output at bottom. The logic is the signal travels top to bottom then out. Shorter cables and less cross talk.


----------



## JRock3x8

thanks for the replies gentlemen. The logic you've presented makes good sense.


----------



## uniquepattern

My rack isn't as fancy as others, but I built it myself!


----------



## azz7686

uniquepattern said:


> My rack isn't as fancy as others, but I built it myself!


Well isn't Velcro awesome lol. Very good job I like it!


----------



## uniquepattern

Those Velcro strips make wiring so easy and tidy!
$5 for a 25' roll of it, is worth every penny!


----------



## bustamelon

General question on airflow: I see a lot of people doing an intake fan on the bottom of their rack, which makes sense. Do people typically do a vent/out fan on top, or above the hotter components, or do you just let the heat find its way or the top/rear? I know it all depends on whether the rack is open or closed, etc, but what is the general consensus there? Let's say my rack is enclosed, I have an intake fan at the bottom, AVR above that. Just use vented shelves and a vented top? Won't the heat from the AVR negatively affect all the components above it? Thanks. I've built many PCs and I feel like I have airflow down to a science there, but I have yet to put a rack together. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


----------



## wayne404

I've never posted on here before, although I've been a member for years. I mostly jump on the forum to read and get ideas of how to make my ideas come to life. I made this custom in wall AV rack from a server rack that I picked up off of CL for free. It took me over a month to complete due to my busy schedule and numerous hours on this SHOW ME YOUR RACK thread, but it was all well worth it. I will be starting my own theater thread soon named the NOICE Family Theater, so check that out and let me know any suggestions you have to make it better. I love constructive criticism. Thanks guys.


----------



## damelon

You know, every time I go into this thread and see more pictures of audio equipment, I can't help but feel let down...


----------



## bpassman

*My new RCS-4224*

Just upgraded from a MA Slim5-37 to a RCS-4224. Still working on rack, but most of the gear is installed and I'm working on cabling and trim/framing around it.


----------



## GreySkies

I finally trimmed out the front of mine, so here it is, along with some pics as I was building it. The white-ish piece on the bottom is an old sampler from my studio that wasn't being used anymore. I used it, along with some rack blanks, to size the rails as I built the rack. I've still got it in my rack—it's being used as a shelf. 

To get to the back of the rack, I built a hidden door bookcase that'll be used for billiard cues. It's a narrow opening, so it's hard to get a good photo of my wiring.

It's running four areas of the house, the family room, the deck, the bar, and the theater.


----------



## wkearney99

GreySkies said:


> To get to the back of the rack, I built a hidden door bookcase that'll be used for billiard cues.


That's a clever use of that wall, nice job.


----------



## rontalley

GreySkies said:


> To get to the back of the rack, I built a hidden door bookcase that'll be used for billiard cues. It's a narrow opening, so it's hard to get a good photo of my wiring.


Do give details of this. Interesting and might work well in my space.


----------



## GreySkies

wkearney99 said:


> That's a clever use of that wall, nice job.


Thanks!



rontalley said:


> Do give details of this. Interesting and might work well in my space.


I used this hinge system, which works very well and is rather sturdy. I built a mock-up for the bottom hinge so I could see how it cleared, and to start to give me an idea of how I needed to make my trim, which is the key to making the whole thing look good. I made most of the trim out of MDF, with the exception of one band that was some other type of white wood (don't remember what exactly, though).

The bookcase itself is rather simple—¾" baltic plywood with a ¼" ply back. There's also a ¾" frame that sits inside the rough opening, inside of which the bookcase is installed.

I took a few pics as I was installing it. One big tip—if your wife is painting this, make sure to let her know how it works, and to tell her to be careful so as not to paint the whole thing shut. Ask me how I know.


----------



## GPowers

GreySkies said:


> To get to the back of the rack, I built a hidden door bookcase that'll be used for billiard cues. It's a narrow opening, so it's hard to get a good photo of my wiring.


I like the hidden door, nice Idea!


----------



## lovingdvd

Hey guys - what are some of your favorite, basic racks? I was planning to go with the Middle Atlantic BGR series. However as I dug in I realized that its a bit overkill for my needs. Basically I just need the raw cage - no front or back doors, no side walls, no top. Only requirements really are that it is rated for at least 800 pounds and can support casters. The Middle Atlantic Slim5 looked interesting, but that's only UL rated for 400 pounds. My power isolation transformer alone is 300 pounds... Thanks!


----------



## bombertodd

lovingdvd said:


> Hey guys - what are some of your favorite, basic racks? I was planning to go with the Middle Atlantic BGR series. However as I dug in I realized that its a bit overkill for my needs. Basically I just need the raw cage - no front or back doors, no side walls, no top. Only requirements really are that it is rated for at least 800 pounds and can support casters. The Middle Atlantic Slim5 looked interesting, but that's only UL rated for 400 pounds. My power isolation transformer alone is 300 pounds... Thanks!



If you're on a budget or like a deal I'd check out craigslist. I picked up two Middle Atlantic racks for under $200 this week. 

http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...closures/mrk-series-22-in-wide-enclosure.aspx

I bought the MRK 4426-LRD.


----------



## bombertodd

GreySkies said:


> ......
> 
> The bookcase itself is rather simple—¾" baltic plywood with a ¼" ply back. There's also a ¾" frame that sits inside the rough opening, inside of which the bookcase is installed.
> 
> I took a few pics as I was installing it. One big tip—if your wife is painting this, make sure to let her know how it works, and to tell her to be careful so as not to paint the whole thing shut. Ask me how I know.



How much space do you have between the back of your rack and back wall?


----------



## BllDo

lovingdvd said:


> Hey guys - what are some of your favorite, basic racks? I was planning to go with the Middle Atlantic BGR series. However as I dug in I realized that its a bit overkill for my needs. Basically I just need the raw cage - no front or back doors, no side walls, no top. Only requirements really are that it is rated for at least 800 pounds and can support casters. The Middle Atlantic Slim5 looked interesting, but that's only UL rated for 400 pounds. My power isolation transformer alone is 300 pounds... Thanks!


Don't skimp on your rack especially if you need it to be mobile. A nice rack is worth the money. The price difference between the two is going to be a drop in the bucket of your total budget when your done.


----------



## GreySkies

bombertodd said:


> How much space do you have between the back of your rack and back wall?


It's 19 inches from the back of the rack to the wall. The rack itself is a four-post that's 21 inches deep.


----------



## bombertodd

GreySkies said:


> It's 19 inches from the back of the rack to the wall. The rack itself is a four-post that's 21 inches deep.


Do you feel like 19 inches is enough? Do you wish you had more? I'm building my theater now and I have a similar issue, I'm trying to decide.


----------



## GreySkies

bombertodd said:


> Do you feel like 19 inches is enough? Do you wish you had more? I'm building my theater now and I have a similar issue, I'm trying to decide.


If I had to climb fully inside to do any work, it'd probably be too tight. But, because I can open the bookcase and work outside, it feels fine. Last week I had to get a stepladder behind it to pull down and terminate a cat5 out of the ceiling, and while that was tight, I was still able to work ok.


----------



## SMHarman

lovingdvd said:


> Hey guys - what are some of your favorite, basic racks? I was planning to go with the Middle Atlantic BGR series. However as I dug in I realized that its a bit overkill for my needs. Basically I just need the raw cage - no front or back doors, no side walls, no top. Only requirements really are that it is rated for at least 800 pounds and can support casters. The Middle Atlantic Slim5 looked interesting, but that's only UL rated for 400 pounds. My power isolation transformer alone is 300 pounds... Thanks!


The Snap AV ones are good and we'll priced.


----------



## wkearney99

GreySkies said:


> Last week I had to get a stepladder behind it to pull down and terminate a cat5 out of the ceiling, and while that was tight, I was still able to work ok.


I've got a couple of these around the house, including one next to my racks of gear.

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...h-folding-step-stools/112924?categoryId=12235

While they're pricey ($99) the 5-step model from the Container Store is fantastic. I'm not a small guy and it's the only one I ever feel confident using on the upper step:

http://www.containerstore.com/s/3--5-step-aluminum-ladders/d?productId=10000800&q=stepladder


----------



## JRock3x8

GreySkies said:


> It's 19 inches from the back of the rack to the wall. The rack itself is a four-post that's 21 inches deep.


I built my AV closet to be 45" square and I don't regret it. #biggerisbetter


----------



## AidenL

Heres mine, needs some sorting out now die to installing an Integral and a Panasonic UHD player.

Will post updated pics when I get a few more shelves installed.


----------



## GreySkies

JRock3x8 said:


> I built my AV closet to be 45" square and I don't regret it. #biggerisbetter


That's a good sized space. Unfortunately, I have a steel post in the wall behind mine, so I was unable to get more space.

I installed my transducers in my theater furniture yesterday. My wife snapped a photo showing me working behind the rack to give an idea of how much space I have to work with.


----------



## JRock3x8

yikes man that's tight. do you have some kind of light to shine from right to left in that picture?

I have a light in my closet but I always need more light when I'm working back there.


----------



## GreySkies

JRock3x8 said:


> yikes man that's tight.


And dark, too. When open, the bookcase blocks natural light quite well, so I bring a floor lamp over to illuminate when I have to work back there. And I still use a flashlight as well.

I have all my infrastructure wiring terminated in keystones in the back of the rack using three of these, which makes working back there relatively easy.


----------



## JRock3x8

I have begun to hide flashlights in almost every corner of my house. They are extremely handy when you need them most.


----------



## wkearney99

JRock3x8 said:


> I have begun to hide flashlights in almost every corner of my house. They are extremely handy when you need them most.


And a pair of appropriate strength reading glasses. Some of the type on the back of all the gear is TINY. A 3-AAA cell LED flashlight and a pair of +2.50 reading glasses comes in handy...


----------



## JRock3x8

wkearney99 said:


> And a pair of appropriate strength reading glasses. Some of the type on the back of all the gear is TINY. A 3-AAA cell LED flashlight and a pair of +2.50 reading glasses comes in handy...


fortunately for me I have great reading glasses built right in!  I'm TERRIBLY near sighted which means all I have to do is hold something up under my glasses and I can make out just about any detail at any size, no matter how small.

It's not great for driving, sports, or pretty much anything else but being near sighted does have that going for it.


----------



## JReuter21

Hey guys, im getting near the finish of my basement build and have a question on my av rack. It is going to built in underneath my stairs. This rack will be nothing fancy. I got two of these, http://www.lowes.com/pd/Rubbermaid-...x-1-in-Actual-0-875-in-x-70-in-x-1-in/3274379, and painted them and the shelf mounts matte black.

What kind of material would you recommend for the shelves themself? I was thinking about just getting some particle board or something and painting it black as well? Would something like a thicker peg board be better so air moves more freely? Also, is there any thickness I should be looking at? 1/2" 3/4" etc.? It will span about 24". As of now the a/v rack will only include my receiver (Denon AVR-S710W), a small bluray player and my directv receiver. Im sure more will be added down the road, but my setup is pretty basic and cant imagine I will get to the point on this build where I will need multiple amps, equalizers, etc. This is just a mancave type room with 5.1 setup, projector, bar, pool table, etc.

Thanks


----------



## Tedd

I've often thought about doing simple 1x3" wood frames with a center support, and using pegboard as the shelf topper. 
Or perhaps some punched metal panels.


----------



## JReuter21

Is it better to have holes in the shelf for ventilation or will that not really make that much of a difference? Id like to go get the material soon. Should I just grab some particle board or would there be an advantage to the holes?


----------



## JReuter21

JReuter21 said:


> Is it better to have holes in the shelf for ventilation or will that not really make that much of a difference? Id like to go get the material soon. Should I just grab some particle board or would there be an advantage to the holes?


Anyone?


----------



## GreySkies

JReuter21 said:


> I was thinking about just getting some particle board or something and painting it black as well?





JReuter21 said:


> Is it better to have holes in the shelf for ventilation or will that not really make that much of a difference? Id like to go get the material soon. Should I just grab some particle board or would there be an advantage to the holes?


I wouldn't do particle board for shelves—it doesn't paint that well in my experience. It's good underlayment for Formica or veneer, though. For shelves, I like ½" or even ¾" Baltic ply with a solid wood front.

For a shelving system, I don't think holes in the shelves will make that much of a difference. I'd only worry about it with a closed-face rack system like a full custom faceplated Middle Atlantic rack.


----------



## eng-399

JReuter21 said:


> Anyone?




Yes it's better to have holes in the vertical piece of of wood. Use MDF instead of particle board for strength. Some avr's throw out a lot heat so be carful. Just put a few holes in the back of each space. Your basically building a bookcase. Also use wood glue along with Brad nails when building it.


----------



## jimim

I'm getting ready to start my equipment racking. I need some advice.

1. Horizontal lacing bars. What middle atlantic ones do you guys like best and why? 

2. I didn't plan on using vertical lacing bars since i have rear rails. Or should I use the vertical bars?

3. When I bring my wires in from the joists should I punch out the large square holes on the top of the rack. I'm using middle atlantic slims. I assume yes, but wasn't sure. I don't have any round holes on the top of my racks.

thanks,
jim


----------



## Tedd

1) I use the straight horizontal lacing bars, but that is more about having a back door on a 20" deep Slim5. 

2) You could use the vertical lacing bars, or you could simply attach some pegboard to the sides of the Slim5 and lace to that. 
As for the rear rails, any reason you can see, that you don't want wiring tied to them? 

3) The round holes are designed for access when using a back door. You aren't tied to using them, if there's no rear door. The large square holes 
for active cooling fans, so you might think if that's a future option....


----------



## SMHarman

I found the horizontal bars and the velcro super handy. 

Horizontal Lacer Bars ("L" Bar) Bars LPB-1A (one bag of 10 bars) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J17OG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.iKRxb2FKZX5J


----------



## lovingdvd

Guys - soon I have a 350 pound power isolation transformer here (7RU IIRC) that I need to into a new rack. It'll go on the very bottom, but higher off the ground than usual for the first RU because it'll be on casters. Anyway I would love to hear your ideas on how to get this puppy into place and secure it - I just can't picture how I could have even a couple friends trying to hold it in place while I try to secure rack ears on all 4 rails. Totally unsure how to pull this off! Any suggestions? Thanks!


----------



## Tedd

Would it be possible to set the transformer on a couple of 2x4's on edge, and "thread it" through the rack with the help of a few friends? 

Then just shim it to the right height, to secure it to the four rails.


----------



## BllDo

^This is pretty much what I did to get my 100# amp in and out the rack by myself. I cut a couple 2x4 "legs" to the right length and screwed the to 2x4 platform and then slid the amp into place. Worked fine.


----------



## lovingdvd

Tedd said:


> Would it be possible to set the transformer on a couple of 2x4's on edge, and "thread it" through the rack with the help of a few friends?
> 
> Then just shim it to the right height, to secure it to the four rails.





BllDo said:


> ^This is pretty much what I did to get my 100# amp in and out the rack by myself. I cut a couple 2x4 "legs" to the right length and screwed the to 2x4 platform and then slid the amp into place. Worked fine.


Thanks guys. I'm not sure I'll be able to do that with this at 350 pounds (literally) and a closed base - meaning that the base has a metal perimter around it. So I would not be able to slide it into place. Here's what it looks like, except it will be on casters which increase the overall height about 1.2".










I was almost wondering if I could use some sort of jack but that may put too much pressure on a central point of the unit.

Any other ideas please?


----------



## BRAD S

lovingdvd said:


> Any other ideas please?


Try supporting your piece of equipment at the approximate level off the floor where you want it located in your rack with 2 x 4's from front to back rather than side to side. Then attach your rack to the equipment which is already supported by the 2 x 4's, rather than attaching the equipment to the rack.

Hard to describe but perhaps you can "catch my drift".

Good luck!


----------



## BllDo

lovingdvd said:


> Any other ideas please?


Engine hoist?


----------



## markrubin

lovingdvd said:


> Guys - soon I have a 350 pound power isolation transformer here (7RU IIRC) that I need to into a new rack. It'll go on the very bottom, but higher off the ground than usual for the first RU because it'll be on casters. Anyway I would love to hear your ideas on how to get this puppy into place and secure it - I just can't picture how I could have even a couple friends trying to hold it in place while I try to secure rack ears on all 4 rails. Totally unsure how to pull this off! Any suggestions? Thanks!


have you checked the max weight rating of the rack and particularly the casters?
that sounds like a lot of weight considering you will be adding other components too
my concern is the casters may not be rated for this kind of weight and could fail


----------



## lovingdvd

markrubin said:


> have you checked the max weight rating of the rack and particularly the casters?
> that sounds like a lot of weight considering you will be adding other components too
> my concern is the casters may not be rated for this kind of weight and could fail


Thanks Mark. Yes I have checked this. The rack is the Middle Atlantic BGR-4532LRD. It is rated to 12,000 pounds. The casters however are only rated to 1,100 pounds. Fully loaded I expect to be around 700-800 pounds so it should be OK.


----------



## Tedd

Won't you be wanting some ventilation space below the isolation transformer? Which means you could elevate the unit in the rack and 
use a vent panel to fill in the rack space below the transformer.


----------



## lovingdvd

Guys what do you recommend as the offsets for horizontal lacing bars? For instance I plan to use these bars as a way to keep the power cords organized at the isolation transformer, and to keep the wires going into the amp and prepro organized. The rack is 32" deep, 29" "usable". The prepro is 14" deep. The amps are 18" deep. The power isolation transformer is 22" deep. I'm confused about the "offsets" that the lacing bars are offered in.

For instance, the amps are 18" deep. The back of the rack is 32" deep. So that's a difference of 14". I figure I want the lacing bar about 4" (??) behind the back of the amps. They have a 10" offset bar (https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...p-serieshorizontal-lacer-bars/lb-10r90-a.aspx), which I think it means it would be 10" inward from the back of the rack? So that would be at 22" from the front, meaning 4 inches behind the amp. Is that a good fit? They also have 2, 4, and 6" offsets (no 8"). For the prepro that is only 14" deep so with the 10" offset bar that would be 8" from the back which I guess is still fine - that will mostly just be holding a power cord and some HDMI cords from drooping.

Also what are nice looking 10-32 black screws with a nice finish without overpaying?


----------



## lovingdvd

Tedd said:


> Won't you be wanting some ventilation space below the isolation transformer? Which means you could elevate the unit in the rack and
> use a vent panel to fill in the rack space below the transformer.


I may be mistaken, but as far as I know these types of power isolation transformers run pretty cool...? The rack will be on casters so that will provide an inch under it, plus open sides, open front and open back (not using any doors, or side walls).


----------



## Tedd

No idea on how warm that transformer will run, but if you have rack space, then that inch brings you right back as 
how to thread 350 pounds into the rack, safely.


----------



## lovingdvd

Tedd said:


> No idea on how warm that transformer will run, but if you have rack space, then that inch brings you right back as
> how to thread 350 pounds into the rack, safely.


It does?  Tho as I think I understand it, putting this power isolation transformer at the very bottom of the rack means that it can rest on the very bottom and have its mounting holes lined up, without it having to be suspended to do so.


----------



## lovingdvd

lovingdvd said:


> Guys what do you recommend as the offsets for horizontal lacing bars? For instance I plan to use these bars as a way to keep the power cords organized at the isolation transformer, and to keep the wires going into the amp and prepro organized. The rack is 32" deep, 29" "usable". The prepro is 14" deep. The amps are 18" deep. The power isolation transformer is 22" deep. I'm confused about the "offsets" that the lacing bars are offered in.
> 
> For instance, the amps are 18" deep. The back of the rack is 32" deep. So that's a difference of 14". I figure I want the lacing bar about 4" (??) behind the back of the amps. They have a 10" offset bar (https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...p-serieshorizontal-lacer-bars/lb-10r90-a.aspx), which I think it means it would be 10" inward from the back of the rack? So that would be at 22" from the front, meaning 4 inches behind the amp. Is that a good fit? They also have 2, 4, and 6" offsets (no 8"). For the prepro that is only 14" deep so with the 10" offset bar that would be 8" from the back which I guess is still fine - that will mostly just be holding a power cord and some HDMI cords from drooping.
> 
> Also what are nice looking 10-32 black screws with a nice finish without overpaying?


I think I can start to answer this question myself... Seems like the idea is to keep the lacing bars a good distance off the equipment because otherwise it can make it awkward to reach the connectors. Likewise it seems the idea is to run all the wires down one side, then a swooping 90 to run across the lacing bar left/right, then another swooping 90 to square up with the equipment. This seems obvious now. For whatever reason I was picturing running the trunk line down the middle of the rear which would just create a big obstacle. 

So I think I'm going to try the 4" offset lacing bars and see how that works out. I'll put the rear rack rails about 2-3" from the rear and see how that works out. Part of the challenge is that I wanted to have it all figured out in advance and order all the accessories, shelves, etc up front. The reality is that this being my first rack I'm going to get the basics for what I know I need, start putting things together, and then learn from there what's working and what's not, what else I need, and order stuff to "fill in" those needs as I go.


----------



## SMHarman

lovingdvd said:


> I think I can start to answer this question myself... Seems like the idea is to keep the lacing bars a good distance off the equipment because otherwise it can make it awkward to reach the connectors. Likewise it seems the idea is to run all the wires down one side, then a swooping 90 to run across the lacing bar left/right, then another swooping 90 to square up with the equipment.


Most equipment is not full rack depth deep so your offset concern is not as great as you think.

This is not a great image and not a show standard tidy rack but shows how close most equipment is to the non offset bars.


----------



## lovingdvd

Generally speaking I think most of my equipment will be around 17-18" deep, with a few pieces being 12-14" deep. With 17-18" deep it means the equipment will be about a foot from the rear rack rails, and about 1.5 feet from the 12-14" deep equipment. Seems like some offset, like maybe 4", would be good since it gives me some work area behind the equipment without having 12-18" wire run squared from the rack back to the equipment, which would droop over such a range. Anyway for starters I ordered the BGR rack and the casters and screws, nothing else. I'll start by racking the initial equipment and plan to figure it out as I go and as I get advice here. Thanks guys!


----------



## lovingdvd

Anyone have a favorite Velcro or other such removable ties for small, medium and large wire bundles they can recommend from Amazon? Thanks!


----------



## jautor

lovingdvd said:


> Anyone have a favorite Velcro or other such removable ties for small, medium and large wire bundles they can recommend from Amazon? Thanks!


The Velcro-branded "ONE-WRAP" are what you want... The knock-off ones are not as good - but may be "good enough" for our usage.


----------



## SMHarman

lovingdvd said:


> Anyone have a favorite Velcro or other such removable ties for small, medium and large wire bundles they can recommend from Amazon? Thanks!





jautor said:


> The Velcro-branded "ONE-WRAP" are what you want... The knock-off ones are not as good - but may be "good enough" for our usage.


VELCRO Brand - ONE-WRAP Cable Management, Thin Self-Gripping Cable Ties: Reusable, Light Duty - 8" x 1/2" Ties, 100 Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_plnTxbA16H8GN


----------



## Tedd

lovingdvd said:


> It does?  Tho as I think I understand it, putting this power isolation transformer at the very bottom of the rack means that it can rest on the very bottom and have its mounting holes lined up, without it having to be suspended to do so.


Is the bottom of the rack flat? And if the transformer has rack mounting ears, shouldn't they be up to the task of properly supporting the transformer? 

What does the manual have to say about mounting options? 

Isn't the mounting of a heavy item at the bottom of a rack all about rack stability? 

And if you are worried about the weight and handling capacity, then why not simply add some 2x4" to the bottom of the rack, to carry some of the load?


----------



## golfster

Art Sonneborn said:


> Here are a couple:


Although my favorite, we are talking about audio racks and this better qualifies. Equipment on a rack or vice versa.


----------



## lovingdvd

SMHarman said:


> VELCRO Brand - ONE-WRAP Cable Management, Thin Self-Gripping Cable Ties: Reusable, Light Duty - 8" x 1/2" Ties, 100 Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_plnTxbA16H8GN


Thanks. What are the difference sizes like 1/4" and 7/8" useful, as compared to the 1/2"?


----------



## lovingdvd

Tedd said:


> Is the bottom of the rack flat? And if the transformer has rack mounting ears, shouldn't they be up to the task of properly supporting the transformer?


I think the bottom of the rack is flat. Please see this short video walk thru of the rack - this is the one I am getting (only its taller at 45RU): 



 . The isolation transformer is 7RU. The front of the unit has large rack ears that span several RU with multiple holes. However I don't see any output for rear rack rails. Perhaps that is not necessary if this sits on the bottom. I can't tell - does it look like the bottom of the rack would support the unit? Is it possible that very thick and heavy front rack ears would be sufficient to support something that's 325 pounds?
[/quote]



> What does the manual have to say about mounting options?


Not much. Just says to remove the 8 front screws to get the front face plate off to access the rack ear screws. That part looks easy enough. Each ear has two holes near the top about an inch apart and two holes near the bottom about an inch apart. So can the rack really hold this in place just with that? Humm. Well the rack is rated for 12,000 pounds and this is going on the very bottom. Casters are rated for 1,100 pounds so should be good there too.[/quote]



> Isn't the mounting of a heavy item at the bottom of a rack all about rack stability?


Yes. It will be going on the bottom. The transformer comes with wheels on each corner which make it easy to roll around on the floor. These are removable. However I kind of would like to keep those wheels on it and lose a few inches in the rack due to it. This way if it should ever need to come out for servicing it can be moved. The casters for the rack increase the rack height by 1". So I would lose 2" or 2RU lets' call it to have this racked with its wheels still on it (but a little off the ground). Does this sound worth it or a waste of 2RU?



> And if you are worried about the weight and handling capacity, then why not simply add some 2x4" to the bottom of the rack, to carry some of the load?


I'm not concerned about the weight and handling capacity. Someone earlier raised the question as a possible concern before knowing the specs. With 12,000 pound capacity and 1,100 pound capacity on the rack casters, and with my equipment totally no more than about 600-700 pounds I think I will be good in that department. This is one of the reasons I went with the BGR rack - just to have that "headroom" on the weight capacity knowing the transformer was going to use up 325 pounds of whatever capacity I had.


----------



## lovingdvd

Can anyone recommend a good label maker, for labeling the wires in the rack? I'm looking for something fairly inexpensive that will get the job done effectively. This one https://amzn.com/B009NVTE5E seems to have good ratings. Something like that, or...?


----------



## GreySkies

lovingdvd said:


> Can anyone recommend a good label maker, for labeling the wires in the rack? I'm looking for something fairly inexpensive that will get the job done effectively. This one https://amzn.com/B009NVTE5E seems to have good ratings. Something like that, or...?


I used an Avery label sheet run through my printer.


----------



## golfster

lovingdvd said:


> Can anyone recommend a good label maker, for labeling the wires in the rack? I'm looking for something fairly inexpensive that will get the job done effectively. This one https://amzn.com/B009NVTE5E seems to have good ratings. Something like that, or...?


I have used this one and it works very well.
https://www.amazon.com/Brother-P-to...UTF8&qid=1471627630&sr=1-5&keywords=p+labeler


----------



## jautor

lovingdvd said:


> Can anyone recommend a good label maker, for labeling the wires in the rack? I'm looking for something fairly inexpensive that will get the job done effectively. This one https://amzn.com/B009NVTE5E seems to have good ratings. Something like that, or...?


The Rhino (industrial Dymo) models have specific support for making cable labels. If you get a general-purpose label maker, you may not get those 'modes'. Regardless, use the flexible nylon labels (or heat shrink!) for cables so they stay put...

https://www.amazon.com/RhinoPRO-Ind...F8&qid=1471629903&sr=1-6&keywords=rhino+label


----------



## Tedd

Now I see the disconnect....

I'd give up the 2U of rack space, if you have it to spare. 

I could see building a sturdy wood box to fit in the base, with a thick top and then routing some slots 
for the casters to roll into. Then secure the face plate, and let the casters carry the load. 

I'd be leery of eight screws at the front, and none at the rear, carrying 325 pounds. Does the Isolation 
Transformer manual say anything about optional rack rails, or brackets to support the rear of the 
transformer?


----------



## lovingdvd

golfster said:


> I have used this one and it works very well.
> https://www.amazon.com/Brother-P-to...UTF8&qid=1471627630&sr=1-5&keywords=p+labeler


When you make labels for your cables do you make tags out of them, or do you run it "along" the wire?



jautor said:


> The Rhino (industrial Dymo) models have specific support for making cable labels. If you get a general-purpose label maker, you may not get those 'modes'. Regardless, use the flexible nylon labels (or heat shrink!) for cables so they stay put...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/RhinoPRO-Ind...F8&qid=1471629903&sr=1-6&keywords=rhino+label


Thanks. Pretty pricey tho. What is the specific support for making cable labels - what's special about that? Flexible nylon labels? And what does heat shrink have to do with it - I thought that was a way to just insulate? Remember I'm a racking newb. 



Tedd said:


> Now I see the disconnect....
> 
> I'd give up the 2U of rack space, if you have it to spare.
> 
> I could see building a sturdy wood box to fit in the base, with a thick top and then routing some slots
> for the casters to roll into. Then secure the face plate, and let the casters carry the load.
> 
> I'd be leery of eight screws at the front, and none at the rear, carrying 325 pounds. Does the Isolation
> Transformer manual say anything about optional rack rails, or brackets to support the rear of the
> transformer?


So a couple friends helped and we got it in the rack without much fuss after all. There are no rear rack ears that I can find and the manual only mentions mounting in the front. The rack ears appear to be part of the entire steel chassis. So in other words these are not "ears" that are mounted to the unit, but rather "baked in" and are complete part of the chassis. I think that is how they pull this off. The unit is resting on the bottom lip of the rack across the entire front and is square to the face of the rack. If you try to push down on it from the back where it is "floating" it doesn't budge (won't budge if you try to move it up either). I'm not concerned about it because in the seemingly highly event the ears would fail, the bottom of the unit would drop maybe about an inch at the most. After seeing how this sits in the rack its no longer a concern.

The only annoying part is that for whatever reason, even tho it is a 7RU unit, on the left side the ears come up just a tad too high, which make mounting the next piece of equipment in the next rack space not line up with the screw hole enough. The right side is fine. This is despite the unit being perfectly flush on both sides. So this means I think that I will have to leave a 1RU blank above it, and I'm already getting short on space due to spacing out equipment (more on that in my next post). I plan to put a 2RU unit above it and maybe that will provide some more flexibility as to where the screw holes are. Perhaps it is my older 1RU gear that has its rack ears positioned wrong, as I never had that in a rack before.


----------



## lovingdvd

Hey guys - I'll be starting to rack my gear in the coming week and am getting concerned about all the spacing I apparently need to leave between components. Even tho I got a 45RU rack, the space seems like it will disappear quickly. I have a 7RU power isolation transformer in the bottom. Then it looks like I will lose 1RU above that (doesn't run hot so otherwise I could mount something right above it) due to mounting holes not quite aligning (the 7RU unit is a hair too tall which makes the screw holes not fully line up for the next RU). So that's 8RU. I have a 4RU amp for subs with no vents in the top which vents out the rear with fans. So that's 12RU. The my other amps take me to 27 RU after leaving gap space in them.

Then my prepro that also has no fans and only top vents. That's 4RU, and with a gap for ventilation that is 5RU. Now I'm at 32 RU. I have a power conditioner / UPS which takes up 3 RU. That won't need any spacing. So that's 35RU just for the primary gear, leaving just 10 RU. Left are mostly 1RU and 2RU types of things like a Blu-ray player, PS4, cable box, video processor, stuff like that. As you can see the 45RU goes real quick! I guess this is one of those "it is what it is" type of things. I just wasn't really expecting to lose about 20% of the space due to ventilation. But alas I am a racking newb so maybe that is just customary and a detail that slipped by me in the planning. I suppose what I will need to do is get a smaller rack maybe half that height for the misc equipment once I run out of space. The gear I'd move from the main rack to the secondary rack would be stuff that's easy to move, like Blu-ray and STB. Things with huge amounts of wires like the amps fortunately would stay put so I wouldn't have to wire that up all again.

Anyway just wondering if you guys have run into this and how you've dealt with the need for ventilation. I should add that I have no front door, no rear door, and no sides - just completely open so lots of ventilation there. But this gear that has no fans and just vents through the top seems like it is not really made with racking in mind. That said, I'd rather have silent gear with no fans and need to leave space in the rack and need two racks, rather than have a bunch of noisy fans - even tho my rack is not in the room.


----------



## jautor

lovingdvd said:


> When you make labels for your cables do you make tags out of them, or do you run it "along" the wire?


Along the wire. "Flags" get snagged when you try to move cables around...



> Thanks. Pretty pricey tho. What is the specific support for making cable labels - what's special about that? Flexible nylon labels? And what does heat shrink have to do with it - I thought that was a way to just insulate? Remember I'm a racking newb.


Heat shrink labels - they'll never come off!

Just have to make sure that the unit will print on the materials, and enough formatting options meant for printing stuff on cables. Now, for our purposes, the "advanced topic" features of cable-printers like auto-numbering and other professional/commercial/datacenter stuff isn't needed - so any decent label maker (as long as you can print on the flexible material - I haven't looked to know if it matters or not) may be sufficient.


----------



## lovingdvd

jautor said:


> Along the wire. "Flags" get snagged when you try to move cables around...
> 
> 
> 
> Heat shrink labels - they'll never come off!
> 
> Just have to make sure that the unit will print on the materials, and enough formatting options meant for printing stuff on cables. Now, for our purposes, the "advanced topic" features of cable-printers like auto-numbering and other professional/commercial/datacenter stuff isn't needed - so any decent label maker (as long as you can print on the flexible material - I haven't looked to know if it matters or not) may be sufficient.


Thanks. I'm starting to look at the higher end units such as the one you recommended. The lower end units have mixed reviews. In the earlier post you said "specific support for making cable labels" - can you please elaborate on that? What is the specific support. As for heat shrinking the labels - so you print the labels (and on what type of tape) and then you put clear heat shrink over it and "bond" it that way? Amazon link to the heat shrink that's good for that purpose please? For a wire that's about 3/8" diameter, which size tape 1/2", 3/4", 1" etc do you recommend? Thank you?


----------



## markrubin

lovingdvd: some ideas:

I use some small USB fans (there are larger ones too)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G059G86/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
on top of some components in my rack as needed: many components have USB ports that are switched, and the fans are very quiet: makes a big difference after a few hours of operation: run the air flow horizontally to vent the rack

regarding the rack spacing: I run into components like this that force you to use a spacer: the OPPO players with their rack ears come to mind: I have access to a sheet metal shop:I cut part of the bottom off a vented 1U spacer to solve that

Lastly: with very heavy components that only mount from the front, I always add a support at the rear: some kind of spacer like stacked furniture sliders or such that sit on the bottom of the rack


----------



## jongig

lovingdvd said:


> Hey guys - I'll be starting to rack my gear in the coming week and am getting concerned about all the spacing I apparently need to leave between components. Even tho I got a 45RU rack, the space seems like it will disappear quickly. I have a 7RU power isolation transformer in the bottom. Then it looks like I will lose 1RU above that (doesn't run hot so otherwise I could mount something right above it) due to mounting holes not quite aligning (the 7RU unit is a hair too tall which makes the screw holes not fully line up for the next RU). So that's 8RU. I have a 4RU amp for subs with no vents in the top which vents out the rear with fans. So that's 12RU. The my other amps take me to 27 RU after leaving gap space in them.
> 
> Then my prepro that also has no fans and only top vents. That's 4RU, and with a gap for ventilation that is 5RU. Now I'm at 32 RU. I have a power conditioner / UPS which takes up 3 RU. That won't need any spacing. So that's 35RU just for the primary gear, leaving just 10 RU. Left are mostly 1RU and 2RU types of things like a Blu-ray player, PS4, cable box, video processor, stuff like that. As you can see the 45RU goes real quick! I guess this is one of those "it is what it is" type of things. I just wasn't really expecting to lose about 20% of the space due to ventilation. But alas I am a racking newb so maybe that is just customary and a detail that slipped by me in the planning. I suppose what I will need to do is get a smaller rack maybe half that height for the misc equipment once I run out of space. The gear I'd move from the main rack to the secondary rack would be stuff that's easy to move, like Blu-ray and STB. Things with huge amounts of wires like the amps fortunately would stay put so I wouldn't have to wire that up all again.
> 
> Anyway just wondering if you guys have run into this and how you've dealt with the need for ventilation. I should add that I have no front door, no rear door, and no sides - just completely open so lots of ventilation there. But this gear that has no fans and just vents through the top seems like it is not really made with racking in mind. That said, I'd rather have silent gear with no fans and need to leave space in the rack and need two racks, rather than have a bunch of noisy fans - even tho my rack is not in the room.


Fans are the worst, lets just start there. My full size rack is flush in the room with a lot of room in the cabinet area behind the rack. My idea was a super quiet bathroom fan, Panasonic that is noiseless, they are not sold at box stores and a little expensive for a fan but it's been there for 8-years and you can't hear it in the room. The second best part of these fans is that they're dual speed, slow is used when the amps are off and high comes on with the amps and when the amps go off the fan stays on high for another 10-minutes then switches to low speed. Second great idea was the air is drawn through a filter from the adjacent room/closet and the air actually blows out the half spaces between components into the theatre room. This works to keep a dustless environment for my expensive equipment.

I also have a large UPS, many amps and etc. to the point where I ran out of room. I built a amp rack in the enclosure behind the rack and the UPS is a hardwired unit in the utility area of the home. I only exposed the equipment such as large reel to reel, decks, and etc.. For all my NAS equipment I have a second rack in the utility room of the home.

8-years and I replace a 12x24 inch filter about once a year but the equipment remains with very little to no dust and high end equipment doesn't like dust. 

I've added this info way back in this thread but I also mentioned how I didn't use casters. With a rack weighing 500 pounds or so I was concerned with the impact on wood floors. I built a half inch Noryl (A good slick plastic) tray with guides routed into it for runners, I then added 1.5 inch x 3/8" inch runners to the bottom of the rack from Noryl. The end result is that the rack looks to be flush against the floor but slides out of the wall very easily. I do place a Noryl board on the wood floor in the room when I slide the rack out but it's easier to move and spin around then you'd expect. Also provides for good weight distribution to the floor.


----------



## jautor

lovingdvd said:


> Thanks. I'm starting to look at the higher end units such as the one you recommended. The lower end units have mixed reviews. In the earlier post you said "specific support for making cable labels" - can you please elaborate on that? What is the specific support.


The important part for us is support for the flexible nylon labels (and heat shrink is really nice). The rest of the cable-label-making specifics are not necessary for our usage... 



> As for heat shrinking the labels - so you print the labels (and on what type of tape) and then you put clear heat shrink over it and "bond" it that way? Amazon link to the heat shrink that's good for that purpose please? For a wire that's about 3/8" diameter, which size tape 1/2", 3/4", 1" etc do you recommend? Thank you?


Dymo "Heat shrink labels". The label is a heat-shrink tube - you print directly on it, then shrink it...


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## JamesVG81

Just spent the last week off and one taking my rack apart and rearranging it to add 2 APC G5BLK's to it and a 16 port switch. Not something I ever want to do again lol. Moved my 2 rack mount sever cases apart so now I can work on them in the rack and not have to take them out every time. Hope I don't have to change much when I swap out my RX-A2000 for a RX-A3060. Think it turned out pretty well..


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## mrcoop

was going to do one large rack in my pantry, but ended doing 2 smaller ones. Just figured it would be easier...One is for downstairs, in the laundry area and the other one in the home theater, which is upstairs.


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## hatlesschimp

The bar fridge lol


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## 3rotor

some work on my little hatch next to the screen for a mini rack

more to come


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## grendelrt

When checking ambient temps in your rack to stay under that 85F threshold, where do you guys measure those temps. My temp sensor is at the top of the rack to turn on the top fans, is there anywhere else I should measure?


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## wkearney99

grendelrt said:


> When checking ambient temps in your rack to stay under that 85F threshold, where do you guys measure those temps. My temp sensor is at the top of the rack to turn on the top fans, is there anywhere else I should measure?


This is my take. You want to make sure the air is flowing past/through/across the heat-generating gear. And that the air is moving such that it keeps that gear from getting hotter than desired. Heat is the enemy of electronic components and can greatly shorten their lifespan. So where ever you're measuring, make sure it's pulling the air such that the hotter stuff gets decent airflow. That and balance between the heat of the hotter components vs the amount of time the fan runs. As in, determine how warm it gets with just ambient air (just sitting on a table). It may be pointless trying to keep things any cooler than that, at least not unless you're providing a direct source of cool conditioned air ALL YEAR ROUND. So if the gear gets to 110F then make sure your air circulation works such that it doesn't let the gear exceed that. That and don't tie the fans running to the equipment being powered on. It's worth having the fan running independently so it can keep running for a while longer to help bring the gear temps down.


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## Waterboy77

*DIY Lacing Bars*

Though I would share this from my build thread, as this thread inspired me for this idea



Waterboy77 said:


> I love my rack but one of the things with a two post rack is the cable management out the back..... lacing bars are not an option
> So I came up with a simple / cheap solution using heavy gauge wire that I had kicking around, a little black paint and Velcro straps
> 
> Really happy with how they turned out and I will probably make more as I get more organized
> If anyone has suggestions to make them even better I'm interested....


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## 3rotor

Waterboy77 said:


> Though I would share this from my build thread, as this thread inspired me for this idea


Simple idea but very neat and tidy. 

Excellent

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk


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## Jaurhead

This thread is great! Using a totally cheap option right now (it was only $5...) but would like to upgrade in the future. I have this tucked in a closet in the Fun Room. 









Few things have changed since this photo, like moving the surge protector to the side of the rack instead of at the back, and adding the wireless router to one of the shelves. I need a power conditioner eventually...

WAY low tech compared everything else featured here...but us noobs usually pale in comparison while we're learning.


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## jjcook

I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?


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## MalevolentHamster

jjcook said:


> I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?


My opinion: don't do it. I did it and it's the biggest PITA ever tying to reach stuff from the back. I hated having to do anything in that rack (even with the sides off). I was SO happy when I got rid of it.


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## bombertodd

jjcook said:


> I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?


Should be nice. 24 to 28 inches deep is ideal in my opinion.


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## TMcG

I would disagree with Hamster because most equipment of any scale will eat up all the depth a 19" rack has to offer very quickly. Add in the several inches for wire at the back plus a reasonable cable bending radius and 23" is really the minimum you should be considering....so I'd say jump on the deal.


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## 3rotor

My rack is 23" deep. Means I can put stuff on both sides. Plus also my long server case fits etc.. 
The 19" is more than sufficient for most set ups. It all depends on what you think you'll need 

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk


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## rms8

jjcook said:


> I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?



*GET IT !!!*

But by the same token, don't discredit a 19" depth either. Just because someone else had a bad experience with a 19" depth does not mean they don't have their place.

My rack is 19" deep. I love it. It fits my space IDEALLY, which is key. Having a back ground in equipment install (several years in an E&I unit in USAF) helps with cramped quarters too.

All this is moot however since you have an opportunity to grab a 23" deep rack. My point is simply not to discredit one vs. the other unless the installed location is considered.






































Good luck with the install !!!!


.


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## jjcook

Thanks for the feedback @MalevolentHamster @bombertodd @3rotor @rms8 -- I picked up the pair of 23" deep MA SRSR-X-20 slide out rotating racks for my ~26" deep closet with no rear access. I'll post pics when installed, though I doubt it will be as clean as @rms8's


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## Seeko

auburnu008 said:


> Thanks! The racks are Middle Atlantic ERK-4420's. I hide the slack in the sides. There are about 2 inches on each side of the shelves that allow wiring to be hid.


Sorry if this has been asked here before, but is this for a home? If so, how could you possibly need that many networking cables? How is your network?

And third... If you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? That's inspiring.


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## dhendriksen

Here's a shot of the front of mine. It's across the hall from the theater. It's a DIY job and a rush one at that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bombertodd

Seeko said:


> Sorry if this has been asked here before, but is this for a home? If so, how could you possibly need that many networking cables? How is your network?
> 
> And third... If you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? That's inspiring.


Obviously I'm not auburn008, but if you build a new home and you add Ethernet to every device that could need it TV's, appliances, wall jacks, IP cameras, and so on. It adds up real quick. I recall reading he is in real estate (someone correct me if I'm wrong). 

If you haven't don so yet, check out his build thread. It is a great read. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...white-oaks-cinema-house-theater-build-48.html


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## towercontrol

*23" deep rack*

Ive got a full height 23" deep rack. It was definitely 3rd hand to me. Mine, in it's past life before me was an RCMP surveillance rack at one time. Ended up in one of the homes of the staff after it was retired, and then I got my hands on it. It's great having the extra space to mount to in the back. We all have converters boxes, or switches, or other electronic boxes that don't fit on the shelf or don't fit on the walls. This one fits it all no problem. Its worth it if you have the extra space.


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## towercontrol

rms8 said:


> *GET IT !!!*
> 
> But by the same token, don't discredit a 19" depth either. Just because someone else had a bad experience with a 19" depth does not mean they don't have their place.
> 
> My rack is 19" deep. I love it. It fits my space IDEALLY, which is key. Having a back ground in equipment install (several years in an E&I unit in USAF) helps with cramped quarters too.
> 
> All this is moot however since you have an opportunity to grab a 23" deep rack. My point is simply not to discredit one vs. the other unless the installed location is considered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with the install !!!!
> 
> 
> .


Hey, I like set up you got there. What do you have for Equipment in there? I see some vertical units in the bottom and what looks like a pro guitar tuner in the middle? 
Beautiful set up! Far fancier then mine.


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## rms8

towercontrol said:


> Hey, I like set up you got there. *What do you have for Equipment in there*? I see some vertical units in the bottom and what looks like a pro guitar tuner in the middle?
> Beautiful set up! Far fancier then mine.



I have a detailed list with embedded links to the equipment's web site in the _*first post of my build thread.*_

Thanks !!


.


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## hatlesschimp

Im renting lol


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## thrillcat

Just picked up a couple of these 16u racks with 3 shelves each for 130/each. Pretty pleased for the price. 

My theater rack (pretty basic)










And my office rack, aka the rack of misfit av toys. I keep these decks around for loading footage into my edit system. 














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pdasterly

any pics of 2 post racks?
i dont have room for a full size rack, tried to search google but most people are using 4 post/ full size racks


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## BllDo

The Middle Atlantic Slim5 is 20" deep. That is only slightly deeper than most standard receivers. How much room do you have to work with?


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## sbarnesvta

Here is my current rack.

It is a basic AV/IT Rack. Network, 2 zone video system, 8 zone audio system with RTI and Crestron control (in the process of converting everything over to Crestron). This also seconds as my test/demo rack for programming so there is a ton of random stuff thrown in.


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## pdasterly

BllDo said:


> The Middle Atlantic Slim5 is 20" deep. That is only slightly deeper than most standard receivers. How much room do you have to work with?


room is 20x12x8, office/media room.
Was thinking 2 post rack and build small cabinet around it


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## Surfdrifter

I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.

Any ideas?


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## Neurorad

Surfdrifter said:


> I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.
> 
> Any ideas?


Maybe Middle Atlantic has something, in their modular UCP system?










http://www.middleatlantic.com/produ...r-panels/ucp-series-modular-panel-system.aspx

If any of those switches are line voltage, you may want to consider surface mount boxes.


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## SMHarman

Surfdrifter said:


> I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.
> 
> Any ideas?


Can't you use relays in the controller instead of wall switches?


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## Surfdrifter

SMHarman said:


> Can't you use relays in the controller instead of wall switches?


Ehhh... I could...probably?  I don't know what these are. I'm looking though for a temp/cheap solution, since my blinds/screen/lift don't have any triggers, so I would I either have to install 4 triggers for the 4 devices in the future.

{DISCLAIMER: I'm a total noob regarding these relays and or wall switches.)

I will look into the relays, but other than that, is there a solution for what I asked? Thanks

EDIT: Just saw Neurorad's reply! Thank you!


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## Tedd

You could actually cut openings in a blank panel. Tape off the faceplate, and use a jigsaw. Or you could 
simply make your own panel.


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## Surfdrifter

Tedd said:


> You could actually cut openings in a blank panel. Tape off the faceplate, and use a jigsaw. Or you could
> simply make your own panel.


Yes, probably that is what I will do. Thank you!


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## Tedd

If those are line voltages and not low voltage relays, then you need to consider using armoured cable and suitable boxes behind the 
face plate for safety.


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## SMHarman

Surfdrifter said:


> Ehhh... I could...probably?  I don't know what these are. I'm looking though for a temp/cheap solution, since my blinds/screen/lift don't have any triggers, so I would I either have to install 4 triggers for the 4 devices in the future.
> 
> {DISCLAIMER: I'm a total noob regarding these relays and or wall switches.)
> 
> I will look into the relays, but other than that, is there a solution for what I asked? Thanks
> 
> EDIT: Just saw Neurorad's reply! Thank you!


Not sure how you are controlling all your devices. Multiple remotes, Creston, Control4, something in the middle?

You want to keep your own creations of High voltage outside the rack. Mess that up and you have a highly charged rack. 

So, nearer the high voltage for the screen and anyway why not a 12/24v motor for the screen you have a relay to control the high voltage. It is triggered by a low voltage switch on the controlling hardware on the rack. 

Even most AVR and projector have a 12v trigger that can do this job. Turn on the projector or AVR and the trigger sends a current to the relay to drop the screen.


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## Tedd

By any chance is your rack a Slim5?


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## Spinningbull

Finally got one side done on my in cabinet rack!









Custom panel for the a3050 ordered.

Now on to the other side.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk


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## isuhunter

I envy the patience for detail that so many of you have!

I am far from OCD but seeing nicely routed and organized wires gives me such a sense of satisfaction.


----------



## Jonas2

isuhunter said:


> I envy the patience for detail that so many of you have!
> 
> I am far from OCD but seeing nicely routed and organized wires gives me such a sense of satisfaction.


Ah, there's nothing like a good, clean, organized wiring install.....! I'm also big on keeping wires as invisible as possible. Not sure why exactly, maybe I'm OCD?


----------



## isuhunter

I am in the early stages of mine. Wires everywhere. This weekend I plan to finish up my electrical work. Get all of the outlets, lights, and switches in.


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## SMHarman

isuhunter said:


> I am in the early stages of mine. Wires everywhere. This weekend I plan to finish up my electrical work. Get all of the outlets, lights, and switches in.


When I went to do my work my buddy who does this for a living said I'm not helping unless you buy a proper equipment rack. 

Grumbled at the time but every time I change something up in there I am thankful. Paid for itself time over in my personal time saved. Likely reduced my equipment costs with better passive cooling and reduced mean time to failure . 

It also takes up less room in a small apartment than having boxes under tvs and speaker things on shelves in every room.


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## hatlesschimp

At the moment just roughly installed the AV components. I think I might swap out the Rotel 1075 power amp with another Rotel 1585. It will look neater and I like the idea of all the speakers running the same equipment. I think the gain isnt the same and may be an issue. But not looking forward to moving shelves with 38kg amps again. Err

One tip is to make sure you mark your speaker wires correctly. I used tape and some of it came off thanks to the builders 👹😭
Its a painful process stripping wires and fitting them, Im not a fan of it lol. And im running Atmos speaker setup and have prewiring allowing for 9.4.6 so plenty of patience is required. But initially 5.2.4 atmos. I lucked out with my rack. Its a 42ru and i got it second with 4 full shelves and 2 12" deep shelves and 2 cat6 24port switch panels and a multi power bar. Only thing is the rack needed a fair clean but it came up well and I also had to change the wheels to a smaller height to allow it to fit.

Still got plenty to do😭


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## SMHarman

hatlesschimp said:


> One tip is to make sure you mark your speaker wires correctly. I used tape and some of it came off thanks to the builders 👹😭
> Its a painful process stripping wires and fitting them, Im not a fan of it lol. And im running Atmos speaker setup and have prewiring allowing for 9.4.6 so plenty of patience is required. But initially 5.2.4 atmos. I lucked out with my rack. Its a 42ru and i got it second with 4 full shelves and 2 12" deep shelves and 2 cat6 24port switch panels and a multi power bar. Only thing is the rack needed a fair clean but it came up well and I also had to change the wheels to a smaller height to allow it to fit.


Wire stripping. I swear by this tool. 

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8", 2078300 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7kSHybCTRBKWT


----------



## scooterdog

Just picked up a VMP EREN-27 Rack Enclosure from Security Product.com. This was under 600 bucks shipped. After looking for hours I came across this. Seems to be built every good as the top end units out there. In fact I've seen the price for this one upward a grand. Nice thing it comes with 5 shelves and blanks plus built in fans. I'll report back once I get it and all set up. Think this was the deal of the year so far.


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## neoridium

He is my rack, the metal surround and door that fits into the wall was custom made by some sheet metal workers where I work.
It was powder coated matte black with a ripple finish. I am always surprised at how well they take my crappy hand drawn drawings and turn it into perfection. I am still waiting on tinted glass to go with the door. Access to the back will be via hidden door.

@ SMHarman I have that exact tool, has made my life easier.


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## towercontrol

Such a great idea using the peg board! I don't have the option the way I'm laid out. But if I rebuild, its jsut a great idea. Especially for multi room set ups. That is just a 3d working map system. Props to you!


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## rms8

towercontrol said:


> Such a great idea using the peg board! I don't have the option the way I'm laid out. But if I rebuild, its jsut a great idea. Especially for multi room set ups. That is just a 3d working map system. Props to you!




THX for the props. 

The board is hinged so that I can swing it open to access the back side too. It makes identifying speaker runs *SO MUCH EASIER*! Plus, because it's peg board, you can lay everything out just as it sits in the room (as I did) and still add and change around.

The very bottom is for the eight 18" sub drivers. So, EACH driver terminates at the board. This allows me to wire them ANY WAY I CHOOSE. Same with the transducers both on the platforms and in the seats.


.


----------



## towercontrol

rms8 said:


> THX for the props.
> 
> The board is hinged so that I can swing it open to access the back side too. It makes identifying speaker runs *SO MUCH EASIER*! Plus, because it's peg board, you can lay everything out just as it sits in the room (as I did) and still add and change around.
> 
> The very bottom is for the eight 18" sub drivers. So, EACH driver terminates at the board. This allows me to wire them ANY WAY I CHOOSE. Same with the transducers both on the platforms and in the seats.
> 
> 
> .


Hey that is as great idea. I know these pics a re a bit aged now. But do you happen to have full size images of the rear like these ones. I am snoopy. I like the setup and your choice of layout. I just want t see more on what is what and how you have things mounted. Or similar.


----------



## towercontrol

Hey, I see you have your main drivers at the top. What kinda weight are they, and What kind of shelves are those. I see they go corner to corner. I had to pick up a 80lb rated and vented shelf for my avr and it cost me around $77 CAN. Which seems outrageous really for a shelf. but sometimes my mind is cheap. But mine is a 4U and only mounts to the front. It wors for me. But I like that one you are using. You get more shelf surface and more weight allowance I presume.









[/QUOTE]


----------



## towercontrol

mrcoop said:


> was going to do one large rack in my pantry, but ended doing 2 smaller ones. Just figured it would be easier...One is for downstairs, in the laundry area and the other one in the home theater, which is upstairs.


how are you finding the (are those crown? or qsc? hard to tell) power amps. I have been looking at going the pro way. Using all digital, so no moving fans ect. But I have heard they can be harsh in sound quality. do you run through an EQ at all or just as is and it wokrs great for you? And which mini rack is that?


----------



## rms8

towercontrol said:


> Hey that is as great idea. I know these pics a re a bit aged now. But do you happen to have full size images of the rear like these ones. I am snoopy. I like the setup and your choice of layout. I just want t see more on what is what and how you have things mounted. Or similar.


Is this what you're were asking for?


.


----------



## towercontrol

rms8 said:


> Is this what you're were asking for?
> 
> 
> .


Hey, Thanks. They may have been bigger the first time posted actually. I forget my pc is bigger then a few others out there. And "I'm always trying to make images bigger. 
Haha but thats okay. I'm just comparing notes and basically building myself a shopping list of all the things I "need" that I may not have or do some swap outs. You have a great setup with great ideas, and its been a while since I have done any major playing in my rack. So eyeballing up everyone elses is my way of sorting through what I "need" to replace! 

The wife hates when I'm on AVS. Shopping happens. 

MY pc integrated into my rack via Cat6, optical, HDMI and composite. Cause one way isn't enough alone


----------



## mrcoop

towercontrol said:


> how are you finding the (are those crown? or qsc? hard to tell) power amps. I have been looking at going the pro way. Using all digital, so no moving fans ect. But I have heard they can be harsh in sound quality. do you run through an EQ at all or just as is and it wokrs great for you? And which mini rack is that?


inuke amps, has built in eq. has fans. They are samson racks...no frills rack but does the job. Just holds your stuff.


----------



## GATABITES

Where would you recommend I start looking to purchase a AV rack, online or local dealer? This will prolly by my next investment and I dont want to spend a fortune.


----------



## GATABITES

This will be for a HT set up.


----------



## bombertodd

GATABITES said:


> Where would you recommend I start looking to purchase a AV rack, online or local dealer? This will prolly by my next investment and I dont want to spend a fortune.


What area are you located in? Many of us have found nice racks for under $150 on craigslist.


----------



## hatlesschimp

towercontrol said:


> Hey, I see you have your main drivers at the top. What kinda weight are they, and What kind of shelves are those. I see they go corner to corner. I had to pick up a 80lb rated and vented shelf for my avr and it cost me around $77 CAN. Which seems outrageous really for a shelf. but sometimes my mind is cheap. But mine is a 4U and only mounts to the front. It wors for me. But I like that one you are using. You get more shelf surface and more weight allowance I presume.


[/QUOTE]
The Top 3 shelves came with the rack. The rack is 80cm deep and the shelves bolt to the front and back so even weight distribution. Top amp is 36kg, next is 28kg i believe and not sure about the Yamaha 3050 avr. A lot of weight but the rack is solid and I trust it. 

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


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## hatlesschimp

bombertodd said:


> What area are you located in? Many of us have found nice racks for under $150 on craigslist.


I got mine for $300 Aussie Dollars with some extra bits like shelves etc. To buy it all I got new would be around $1,800 AUD.
As long as the fron looks half respectable it will be fine. No one cares about how the rack looks its the sound and picture. The rack is a good chance to save money by going with a used unit. I guess craigslist is like Gumtree in Australia. Everyday just search "Rack" & "Server Rack" you might get lucky and someone will give one away for free just to move it quick. Many companys that go belly up sell stuff like this cheap to move it quick. Also the best thing is it comes already assembled! Just strip it back and clean it up and your ready. Watch your depth but. I found 1m deep too deep after seeing one in person. I thought 60cm deep was for me but when a 80cm deep popped up in my suburb I went with it and was happy I did because It gives me a bit more room in the back to have cables and if I ever put the panels back on then I have some breathing room for the equipment. But many dont realize how hot a rack can get amd thats why I have the panels off. Im borderline needing a vent fan for the cupboard I just have enough air gaps in the doors and space in the cupboard.


----------



## towercontrol

Mulit reply you could call this.  @hatelesschimp- That is alot of weight. Especially near the top. But yes, that is the advantage of racks. The durability is amazing.  @GATABITES
I'm up in Canada. But mine I got it for the price of Free! It was a friend of the family's sons, but originally an RCMP surveillance rack.(from what I understood) had some pretty sweet vintage equipment in it when I first saw it. Originally It was tan on the outside panels. But that was the first thing I changed. Ran out grabbed some semi-gloss black metal paint and painted the whole thing. Then began to fill it. It's had 4 configurations over the years with me and going on 5 now, Similar set ups but equipment changes over the years depending on what house I was in at the time and age I was living through. And is going through another as we speak which is why I'm only showing the top half. AVR work is being done below. Some guys have paid hundreds or thousands. I know it. But, get a rack, even a basic one and make it yours. Make it work for you in your set up. Mine is not as fancy or pretty as others, but I'm proud of it. Its a hobby, Just be prepared to spend more, Open/empty spaces just are no good for looking at!


----------



## Tedd

GATABITES said:


> Where would you recommend I start looking to purchase a AV rack, online or local dealer? This will prolly by my next investment and I dont want to spend a fortune.


Passed on this last year, but it was tempting... Came up right after I grabbed a MA Slim5 via EBay, for $99 shipped.

A coat of paint on that rack and some WY84U DIY face plates, and that might be a $100 all in, av rack, for a little bit of effort....


----------



## DubDriver17

Has anyone here screwed Rack Rails directly into properly spaced studs and mounted equipment that way? Would save me a ton of money.


----------



## eng-399

DubDriver17 said:


> Has anyone here screwed Rack Rails directly into properly spaced studs and mounted equipment that way? Would save me a ton of money.




That could work you would have to Pre drill holes threw the side of the rack shelfs then screw right into the 2/4. Paint the 2/4's black and trim the front out. Menards and Home Depot sells vinyl for counter tops you could even glue that to the side and paint it black for a nice smooth look.


----------



## bombertodd

DubDriver17 said:


> Has anyone here screwed Rack Rails directly into properly spaced studs and mounted equipment that way? Would save me a ton of money.



For the price of four rack rails (I'd want to four to support the back on heavy equipment) you could probably just buy a used rack on craigslist. I see a bunch for under $100 in my area.


----------



## AVA-SF

*Racks*

Hey Guys,

Here is a couple pics of my racks. I pulled the door off for a bit better view, I actually go back and forth between the door on and off. 

Just a bit of info.

The Small Rack on the wall contains all networking and security equipment, I hate how it interferes with AV so I keep them separate. 

The Rack has dual Duct Cool Fan systems, 1 pulling air in the bottom and 1 sucking it out the top.

Full Access to cabling both below and above with Trap doors in the room to access both 
routes.

The Big one is a Mid Atlantic BGR and the little on wall guy is a Mid Atlantic DWR.

The Racks are feeding a 7.4.4. Amos Theater and 12 Zones of Distributed Audio.


----------



## Pakalika

AVA-SF said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Here is a couple pics of my racks. I pulled the door off for a bit better view, I actually go back and forth between the door on and off.
> 
> Just a bit of info.
> 
> The Small Rack on the wall contains all networking and security equipment, I hate how it interferes with AV so I keep them separate.
> 
> The Rack has dual Duct Cool Fan systems, 1 pulling air in the bottom and 1 sucking it out the top.
> 
> Full Access to cabling both below and above with Trap doors in the room to access both
> routes.
> 
> The Big one is a Mid Atlantic BGR and the little on wall guy is a Mid Atlantic DWR.
> 
> The Racks are feeding a 7.4.4. Amos Theater and 12 Zones of Distributed Audio.


AVA-SF,

What is the exact model of your rack. I am looking to flush mount a rack with a door, and your yours looks great. I looked around the MA website and am leaning towards an Essex RCS, but the back doesn't seem like it opens. Thanks!


----------



## towercontrol

That's a good looking setup. I'm huge on strip LED. I have many many feet through out my house and neighbors too. But never actually thought of it there. Looks good. Mine being a floor standing unit I have the ability to pull it into the room. But also built full access to the rear. I like the finished bottom with yours and behind the doors is a great idea.


----------



## Pakalika

AVA-SF said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Here is a couple pics of my racks. I pulled the door off for a bit better view, I actually go back and forth between the door on and off.
> 
> Just a bit of info.
> 
> The Small Rack on the wall contains all networking and security equipment, I hate how it interferes with AV so I keep them separate.
> 
> The Rack has dual Duct Cool Fan systems, 1 pulling air in the bottom and 1 sucking it out the top.
> 
> Full Access to cabling both below and above with Trap doors in the room to access both
> routes.
> 
> The Big one is a Mid Atlantic BGR and the little on wall guy is a Mid Atlantic DWR.
> 
> The Racks are feeding a 7.4.4. Amos Theater and 12 Zones of Distributed Audio.


Nevermind. I found it... 

I need to read a little more closely.


----------



## mercracing

Hey guys, for the life of me I cant seem to be able to find lacing bars with enough offset. I'm looking for 12" of offset. Why so much you ask? I am using an old server rack that I got on trade. Its super deep, likely deep enough it could be used on both sides. Fortunately I dont have that much equipment yet...

Thanks for the help!

Second question. I currently am using an old laptop to stream tv shows(Last Man Standing, Big Bang Theory, HGTV, etc..) and to access and stream movies from the small server we have. Currently the laptop does not have the horsepower to stream bluray quality. Is there a rack mount pc that can easily handle these tasks? Really all I need is rack mount, enough hp to stream bluray quality movies, and internet accessibility? A windows 10 rack mount pc?


----------



## towercontrol

Could you use a normal one. But just use/make/have made custom brackets to sink it in the distance you need. If you are gona keep this rack. It may be a good idea to have a bunch made up for future needs. Just my thought. Or. How about finding a used shelf around the 12" depth your looking for. Or even new is cheap enough. Just a basic no frills shelf. And either drill it out for what you need. Or apply some of the vertical ones to the shelf? If you get what I'm trying to say?


----------



## mercracing

towercontrol said:


> Could you use a normal one. But just use/make/have made custom brackets to sink it in the distance you need. If you are gona keep this rack. It may be a good idea to have a bunch made up for future needs. Just my thought. Or. How about finding a used shelf around the 12" depth your looking for. Or even new is cheap enough. Just a basic no frills shelf. And either drill it out for what you need. Or apply some of the vertical ones to the shelf? If you get what I'm trying to say?


I THINK I understand what your saying. However, I am looking for horizontal lacing bars. Like these, but with more offset.
https://www.amazon.com/Middle-Atlantic-LBP15-Round-Lacing/dp/B0002EHNWM


----------



## towercontrol

Ya totally. Take the normal bracket as you pictured and add it or a similar one to the end of a 12" or similar shelf inside the rack. So it can use the shelf for the strength and length and get it where you need it.


----------



## Tedd

Is there a sliding seat of rear rails on the sides of that server? Or the option to add a second set of rear rails? 



How hard would it be, to make some lacing bars, with the needed offset? 

It would basically be four bends. Plus the use of a vice, to flatten the ends. Then drill 
a couple of holes and give coat of paint.


----------



## SMHarman

mercracing said:


> Hey guys, for the life of me I cant seem to be able to find lacing bars with enough offset. I'm looking for 12" of offset. Why so much you ask? I am using an old server rack that I got on trade. Its super deep, likely deep enough it could be used on both sides. Fortunately I dont have that much equipment yet...
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Second question. I currently am using an old laptop to stream tv shows(Last Man Standing, Big Bang Theory, HGTV, etc..) and to access and stream movies from the small server we have. Currently the laptop does not have the horsepower to stream bluray quality. Is there a rack mount pc that can easily handle these tasks? Really all I need is rack mount, enough hp to stream bluray quality movies, and internet accessibility? A windows 10 rack mount pc?


Raspberry pi iii


----------



## schmidtwi

DubDriver17 said:


> Has anyone here screwed Rack Rails directly into properly spaced studs and mounted equipment that way? Would save me a ton of money.






Many go the DIY route using rack rails vs buying a rack - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/990179-diy-v-rack.html




.


----------



## drunkpenguin

If I secure the top of a basic network rack can I avoid bolting it to the floor? I want to get a simple rack like this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAH6I4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's going to go in my office closet for just a handful of things, network gear and the receiver for the living room. I'm wondering if I secure the top part of it to the wall so it cannot tip over is there any reason why the bottom can't stay unbolted?


----------



## Waterboy77

drunkpenguin said:


> If I secure the top of a basic network rack can I avoid bolting it to the floor? I want to get a simple rack like this one..
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAH6I4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> It's going to go in my office closet for just a handful of things, network gear and the receiver for the living room. I'm wondering if I secure the top part of it to the wall so it cannot tip over is there any reason why the bottom can't stay unbolted?


I have a rack like that one.... I screwed to the floor and secured at the top, the top securing really locked it in for me
The concern I would have with not securing to the floor is that the weight of the gear is not balanced and it might cause the bottom to kick out some depending on how much weight you put on it. That said the base is very heavy (well on mine anyway) 
Why do you want to avoid bolting to the floor? hardwood flooring?


----------



## towercontrol

Waterboy77 said:


> drunkpenguin said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I secure the top of a basic network rack can I avoid bolting it to the floor? I want to get a simple rack like this one..
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAH6I4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> I would have to agree. although there would be ways tonavoud the swing. it may as well be bolted behind a wall to make it appear as if it's off the floor. But depending on what you are doing with it. and weight inside it. I wouldn't trust it personally. but I have about 300lbs or more in mine.
Click to expand...


----------



## drunkpenguin

Just trying to save some work. It's a concrete floor that will have tile on it or laminate floor, not sure yet. It won't have much weight at all, 50 lbs maybe. This is not my HT gear, just the livingroom which is one receiver, no amps and little things like Amazon fire, etc. Plus a router, a switch, and 1 rack mount computer.


----------



## towercontrol

drunkpenguin said:


> Just trying to save some work. It's a concrete floor that will have tile on it or laminate floor, not sure yet. It won't have much weight at all, 50 lbs maybe. This is not my HT gear, just the livingroom which is one receiver, no amps and little things like Amazon fire, etc. Plus a router, a switch, and 1 rack mount computer.


if it's only a few things. would a half rack or a smaller quarter rack work? then you can sink it into a wall or closet easy. and retain storage space. just my opinion.


----------



## drunkpenguin

I considered that, but storage is not an issue, we are not pack rats. Plus with tech evolving all the time I'm sure other things will get added over the years. One of our kids left home and we're turning that room into an office. The closet is not needed and small anyways so I want to convert it into a media closet for the house and consolidate everything to a central point. Right now I've got bits and pieces of network and AV hardware in nearly every closet in the house lol. 

I like the idea of bolting the the bottom to the wall. I might be able to fabricate something and make that work.


----------



## drunkpenguin

@towercontrol

I think you are right, why do I need a 7 ft tall rack? I don't! I found a 36" rack on ebay for 50 bucks so I grabbed it. I'll put some heavy duty shelving above it and mount the top to the bottom shelf for stability. Thanks for your help!


----------



## towercontrol

I suppose you can't beat price. I didnt mean to change your ideas with my question. I was just thinking ease if use. plus if really needed ypu can always add another on top of it too if future expansion is needed.


----------



## NickTheGreat

drunkpenguin said:


> @towercontrol
> 
> I think you are right, why do I need a 7 ft tall rack? I don't! I found a 36" rack on ebay for 50 bucks so I grabbed it. I'll put some heavy duty shelving above it and mount the top to the bottom shelf for stability. Thanks for your help!


Tis the American way!  

Seriously though, I was going to buy a smaller one, but found a great deal on a full size on Craigslist.


----------



## drunkpenguin

The only reason I really wanted the tall one was it was the cheapest I could find. Smaller racks were twice the price for some odd reason.  But then I found a deal on ebay.


----------



## edge928

I work in IT and I still get sticker shock when I look at the price of racks. It's metal with some holes in it. I built my own out of wood with shelf standards. Will post pics once I get it setup. It's done, I just have it covered in 3 layers of plastic while the basement/theater is finished in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## drunkpenguin

Does anyone make a rack shelf with a door on it? I want to hide all the little things like rokus and firetvs. I see rack drawers but they don't have any type of ventilation.


----------



## Tedd

Middle Atlantic security covers?

http://www.middleatlantic.com/products/accessories/security-options.aspx


----------



## drunkpenguin

Wow, they are really proud of those doors! I dont need one that bad.


----------



## Jaurhead

Noob contributing:


----------



## edge928

This is my DIY rack. Cheap pine, drywall screws, wood filler and lots of sanding. Shelf size is 19" x 19" (plus 1/4" banding on front of plywood). 3" casters with locks and used some 4' shelf standards. Other parts I used were screw-on velcro-tie mounts. Total height of the shelf is about 5'5". If you look at the line conditioner on the bottom, it's a rack-mount and by screwing on some extra 1x2's I'm able to then screw on rack-mount devices. 3/4" ply on bottom, 1/2" on top, 1/2" shelves. I use the top as a charging station for controllers with a USB hub/charger. (Edit - Updated images)


----------



## wkearney99

Recessed the side screws and flush cut the plugs too, nice.

What's with all the patched drywall screws up the rest of the studs in the room? Trying to single-handedly keep the screw makers profits up? Heh.


----------



## ando1

Hi all,

I have been a long time lurker of this forum but rarely post. I wanted to do so today as I got a lot of great ideas from this thread. Below are some pics of my before and after rack.

Enjoy!


----------



## kansashoops

Finally finished putting together my new Sanus 36U rack. Really happy with how it turned out. From bottom to top: Emotiva XPA-5 (Gen 1), Yamaha RX-A3050, APC H15BLK, Oppo UDP-203, XBox One S, PS3, Dish Joey, CyberPower power strip, AC Infinity Airplate controller. Harmony hub sits on top, since I couldn't get everything to work with it inside the rack. I took a 2U blank panel and made a cutout for the Airplate controller. There are two sets of Airplate T9 fans attached to the vents on the inside of the rack with strip magnets, one on the bottom to pull cool air in, and one on the top to push warm air out. I also have an LED strip light inside at the back of the rack that turns on automatically when you remove a panel, and turns off when you put it back.


----------



## LFE Junkie

Mid-Atlantic swivel rack:


----------



## jhughy2010

kansashoops said:


> Finally finished putting together my new Sanus 36U rack


Looks great! I'm wondering if you plan on keeping it next to your screen? 



LFE Junkie said:


> Mid-Atlantic swivel rack


Very cool! Did you do it yourself? Would like to know more about your set-up do you have a thread or pics posted anywhere?


----------



## LFE Junkie

jhughy2010 said:


> Looks great! I'm wondering if you plan on keeping it next to your screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool! Did you do it yourself? Would like to know more about your set-up do you have a thread or pics posted anywhere?


I have a few on the JTR sub boards. All my gear is in my signature, but if you want pics of the whole setup let me know.


----------



## jongig

Hi Everyone,

I have a Middle-Atlantic rack and it's been a few years since I purchased a custom face-plate. I recently replaced my failing Directv receiver with a Directv HR-54-200 and it needs a new faceplate. I can't recall where I purchased the last ones, can you steer me to the best place to purchase these. Looks like I need a Middle-Atlantic RSH4A2S.

Thanks.


----------



## Done Deal DR

I've had great experiences ordering my custom face plates from customavrack.com, where I've ordered all of mine from. 

They offer a bit of a discount over the retail prices and have great support, including the last time I got a new settop box that had slight revisions within the same model code that caused the initial face plate I ordered to be incorrect, they sent me the new one quickly at no charge to me (even though it was basically my fault). 

I would start by doing a search on the MA custom race face lookup:
http://www.middleatlantic.com/resources/rsh-lookup.aspx

They also worked with me when I had a device MA didn't have in their database yet, basically coordinating me shipping the device to MA and then getting the custom faceplate to me, all at the slightly reduced price. For what little they must have made off of it, they put in a lot of effort.


----------



## towercontrol

ando1 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have been a long time lurker of this forum but rarely post. I wanted to do so today as I got a lot of great ideas from this thread. Below are some pics of my before and after rack.
> 
> Enjoy!


Feels good having a nice sold and clean set up. Its a pride for sure.


----------



## jason4vu

A nice set!


----------



## 04rex

Hello, I am wondering if anyone has the Omnimount RE42 with an Outlaw amp in it as well as a CV-5000?


Thanks,
Dan


----------



## grendelrt

I have an re27, with an outlaw 5 channel amp (200w ver). Not sure if I can help, what was the question? 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Spinningbull

Added an amp, split racks into sound & source...









Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk


----------



## TheNecromancer

I've got an Omnimount RE27 and I'm wondering if anyone can point me to a 1 U temperature control. The rack has built in fans but if you plug them in they run continuously. I'm hoping to find something that monitors the temperature and turns on the fans as needed.

Any advice appreciated.


----------



## Spinningbull

TheNecromancer said:


> I've got an Omnimount RE27 and I'm wondering if anyone can point me to a 1 U temperature control. The rack has built in fans but if you plug them in they run continuously. I'm hoping to find something that monitors the temperature and turns on the fans as needed.
> 
> Any advice appreciated.


Im waiting for this... https://www.acinfinity.com/rack-fan...t1-n-quiet-rack-cooling-fan-system-1u-intake/

It has fans in it, but can also control other fans.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk


----------



## ayates

Photos of my home built slide out, lighted, rack: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...8076-homebuilt-slide-out-rack-w-lighting.html


Allan.


----------



## BllDo

ayates said:


> Photos of my home built slide out, lighted, rack: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...8076-homebuilt-slide-out-rack-w-lighting.html
> 
> 
> Allan.


Very impressive.


----------



## grendelrt

TheNecromancer said:


> I've got an Omnimount RE27 and I'm wondering if anyone can point me to a 1 U temperature control. The rack has built in fans but if you plug them in they run continuously. I'm hoping to find something that monitors the temperature and turns on the fans as needed.
> 
> Any advice appreciated.


I have the same rack and use a temperature based fan solution, it replaces the two fans at top and puts a single slot controller with lcd at top. Think the controller was 60 or 70, PM me so I remember tonight and I will send you a pic and the info.


----------



## grendelrt

here is what I use in my Omnimount RE27, replace the two existing fans with 2 from below and mount the 1U temperature controller at the top, works great, programmed only to come on over a certain temperature. 


Controller
https://www.coolerguys.com/collecti...acket-with-programmable-fan-controller-2a-psu

2x of these
https://www.coolerguys.com/products/coolerguys-120mm-12v-low-speed-fan


----------



## azz7686

I personally like the ease of a.c. infinity myself. I cut in a controller on my rack and replaced the 110v fans with the kit.

I have found an updated controller from them with a much cleaner defined display, this one bleeds out from the backlight. Looks like the new one is dot matrix, oled, self lit so easier to read in dark









Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk


----------



## SMHarman

azz7686 said:


> I personally like the ease of a.c. infinity myself. I cut in a controller on my rack and replaced the 110v fans with the kit.
> 
> I have found an updated controller from them with a much cleaner defined display, this one bleeds out from the backlight. Looks like the new one is dot matrix, oled, self lit so easier to read in dark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk


Don't those solid shelves do a number on airflow?


----------



## azz7686

Receiver goes up top and amps are on bottom. Receiver is what gets hot and the amps are fine the iNuke has fans and its open in a closet, this is a free rack and wasnt paying what they wanted for more shelves.


----------



## Gazoo382

*Almost done/need inventive minds - cooling*

I've searched and read what I could but I think I need confirmation.

I'm attaching pics of my 95% done rack.

Summary: original room had faked rock, hunting lodge 1970s style. Re-did the entire room but wife did not want to see rack and I had no room next to this to relocate. I came up with an idea to put the rack in a cabinet. 22u tall. I have speaker cloth on the outside. My thoughts were to have fans internal pulling air through speaker cloth and expelling outside via heater duct type grill. I'm not sure how much ventilation I will get through the speaker cloth. Since it's enclosed I may cut a vent into top of the wood cabinet. Just can't decide on bringing air in or pushing air out or both. Of course noise is an issue. Considering 2U thermostat fan on front and removing glass door. Back door is and will probably remain off.

Duct fans will be too loud so how to get air to where I want it. I have direct access outside through stucco. (Sorry, wires will be cleaned up in final,stage, have a current issue with bad hdmi cable and will have to go with backup cat6).

Suggestions? Two 160mm fans are on top (48db each at 2200 rpm each!) too loud. Current temps, open: 86F all closed up no fans 94F.

What is critical temp. Emotiva on bottom, Yamaha above that with good separation. Right now all warm air just kind of recirculates.


----------



## wkearney99

You most likely DO NOT want to use outside air. For any number of reasons but humidity would be my first concern. Second would be exhaust fans pulling out air in a very tight house can cause CO problems. Older houses are likely to have less issue with this but it's still a factor to bear in mind. New houses refer to this as needing 'make up air' to 'make up' for what's being pulled out. There are such things as heat exchangers but they're likely too bulky for that location.

My next thought would be using an interior wall to either go or down to a space that could be used to exchange the air. Any chance of getting to the space above/below?


----------



## Gazoo382

wkearney99 said:


> You most likely DO NOT want to use outside air. For any number of reasons but humidity would be my first concern. Second would be exhaust fans pulling out air in a very tight house can cause CO problems. Older houses are likely to have less issue with this but it's still a factor to bear in mind. New houses refer to this as needing 'make up air' to 'make up' for what's being pulled out. There are such things as heat exchangers but they're likely too bulky for that location.
> 
> My next thought would be using an interior wall to either go or down to a space that could be used to exchange the air. Any chance of getting to the space above/below?


Cement slab. Attic at that end is a belly crawl for sure. If this was a similar "home theater closet" is air pushed out, and if so to where? So let's assume for now that I push air out of the house via screened/critter proof method. Your concern is the unequal air pressure is that right? Are we talking enough to worry about? I could recirculate to the room but seems wrong to push hot (warm) air back into the room.


----------



## TMcG

Gazoo382 said:


> Suggestions? Two 160mm fans are on top (48db each at 2200 rpm each!) too loud. Current temps, open: 86F all closed up no fans 94F.
> 
> What is critical temp. Emotiva on bottom, Yamaha above that with good separation. Right now all warm air just kind of recirculates.


Check out all the products from AC Infinity on Amazon. You have a whole range of options to choose from. Build quality is excellent and they are priced aggressively IMHO. Your cabinet is probably around 30 square feet so even a minimum 50 CFM system will change out the air in the cabinet almost twice a minute, which is plenty. All of these systems are thermostatically controlled as well, so they will only run when they need to and only as hard as they need to. Ideally mount the fan(s) on the back panel of the rack toward the top. Exhaust out.

Do NOT block the intake with speaker grill cloth. Either keep it open or use a USED dryer sheet as a high-flow makeshift filter to trap the majority of the dust which would normally come through the air intake if completely open. Ideally the intake should be on the bottom of the rack, toward the front of the rack. This allows for maximum draft from front to back and bottom to top for heat expulsion.


----------



## Roger Dressler

Here's my DIY rack. 










Now you see it, now you don't. Closing the door keeps noise and heat from entering the theater.










The back end.


----------



## wkearney99

Gazoo382 said:


> Cement slab. Attic at that end is a belly crawl for sure. If this was a similar "home theater closet" is air pushed out, and if so to where? So let's assume for now that I push air out of the house via screened/critter proof method. Your concern is the unequal air pressure is that right? Are we talking enough to worry about? I could recirculate to the room but seems wrong to push hot (warm) air back into the room.


The concern is if you pull enough air out from here will it cause enough pressure difference somewhere else... like a furnace, water heater or dryer. In an older home it's less likely to be an issue, but in modern ones that are well-sealed it can be a problem. That and you'd be dumping conditioned air outdoors, which if you're in a higher-humidity location would be wasting energy. Dumping it straight up to the attic would also be a potential concern from both a winter heat loss and summer cold air condensation perspective. But if depending on your climate it might be 'less worse' than roasting the gear. I'd talk with a local HVAC place to inquire about effective ways to vent the space before you go cutting any holes in the outside wall.

One idea comes to mind and that's having a vent along the top of the cabinet. Ones top and bottom can help add a convection flow effect. Might be possible to do something like have an array of larger, slower-turning fans in the floor pulling air in and a vent strip on the top allowing for exit. Coupled with a suitable fan thermostat to control it so it runs only when necessary.


----------



## Bluskinsfan21

Can someone point me in the direction of a solid cantilever rack shelf that is actually deep enough to hold a receiver? My shelf is just a simply pass through into a closet with rack rails right into the studs. I will only need a shelf for a receiver, ps4pro, wiiu, and uhd player. All of the shelves are easy to figure out except for the receiver as every shelf I find is way to short (depth). Appreciate the input.


----------



## wkearney99

Bluskinsfan21 said:


> Can someone point me in the direction of a solid cantilever rack shelf that is actually deep enough to hold a receiver? My shelf is just a simply pass through into a closet with rack rails right into the studs. I will only need a shelf for a receiver, ps4pro, wiiu, and uhd player. All of the shelves are easy to figure out except for the receiver as every shelf I find is way to short (depth). Appreciate the input.


Does middle atlantic not make one that'll fit?


----------



## wiley165

Bluskinsfan21 said:


> Can someone point me in the direction of a solid cantilever rack shelf that is actually deep enough to hold a receiver? My shelf is just a simply pass through into a closet with rack rails right into the studs. I will only need a shelf for a receiver, ps4pro, wiiu, and uhd player. All of the shelves are easy to figure out except for the receiver as every shelf I find is way to short (depth). Appreciate the input.


I've been happy with StarTech rack shelves, so long as you are under the rated weight of 50 lbs.
Inexpensive IMO, and pretty beefy.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Universal-Vented-Cantilever-19-Inch/dp/B008X3JHJQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503680001&sr=8-4&keywords=Startech+shelves


----------



## Bluskinsfan21

wiley165 said:


> I've been happy with StarTech rack shelves, so long as you are under the rated weight of 50 lbs.
> Inexpensive IMO, and pretty beefy.
> https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Universal-Vented-Cantilever-19-Inch/dp/B008X3JHJQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503680001&sr=8-4&keywords=Startech+shelves


I actually bought one of those and they are real nice. Question is though, how does the receiver sit on them? I know I can get a 22 inch model, but only being a 2U, that seems like it could be dicey. Middle Atlantic seems to have an ok selection, but even then, not deep enough and pretty expensive too.
I know people are rack mounting their receivers though, so are people just putting them on shorter shelves??


----------



## wiley165

Bluskinsfan21 said:


> I actually bought one of those and they are real nice. Question is though, how does the receiver sit on them? I know I can get a 22 inch model, but only being a 2U, that seems like it could be dicey. Middle Atlantic seems to have an ok selection, but even then, not deep enough and pretty expensive too.
> I know people are rack mounting their receivers though, so are people just putting them on shorter shelves??


The safer alternative would be a 4 point shelf. Your description of your setup made me think you did not have a 4 post rack, hence my recommendation.
Could you use something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Mounting-Depth-Vented/dp/B0013KCLQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503688994&sr=8-1&keywords=startech+adjustable+shelf


----------



## Bluskinsfan21

wiley165 said:


> Bluskinsfan21 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I actually bought one of those and they are real nice. Question is though, how does the receiver sit on them? I know I can get a 22 inch model, but only being a 2U, that seems like it could be dicey. Middle Atlantic seems to have an ok selection, but even then, not deep enough and pretty expensive too.
> I know people are rack mounting their receivers though, so are people just putting them on shorter shelves??
> 
> 
> 
> The safer alternative would be a 4 point shelf. Your description of your setup made me think you did not have a 4 post rack, hence my recommendation.
> Could you use something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com...994&sr=8-1&keywords=startech+adjustable+shelf
Click to expand...

No you're absolutely right, I am working with a two rack system. I was just concerned that a receiver wouldn't sit on a shelf less than 19" deep


----------



## wiley165

Bluskinsfan21 said:


> No you're absolutely right, I am working with a two rack system. I was just concerned that a receiver wouldn't sit on a shelf less than 19" deep


I'm thinking that if you go with the 22 inch shelf, and the receiver is less than 50 lbs., the point of failure would probably come from the rails, rather than the shelf.

You are gonna want to ensure the rails are attached to those studs very securely.

Is there a way to reinforce/support the back (rear bottom) of the shelf, possibly with a bar or a piece of wood, spanning the width of the closet, under the shelf?
That might be the way to go with your current setup.


----------



## Gazoo382

wkearney99 said:


> The concern is if you pull enough air out from here will it cause enough pressure difference somewhere else...


I have two bathroom fans that vent to outside and I can't see that they cause an air imbalance issue. That said, I'm not keen now on cutting and venting to outside.

I'm leaning towards cutting vents on the wood shelf above the unit and vents at the bottom to draw air in. I like the idea of ac infinity T7 2u rack fans with thermostat control. I'll probably start with a standard fan stuck at the bottom just to see if I can get air to circulate. Thx for replying. If anyone finds a good link for cooling within a very confined space let me know.


----------



## Kevin4730

My updated/cleanup rack. Needs more cat cables for various drops around the house. Also, will be venting to the basement below with inline fan so I can actually shut the door to the closet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kevin4730

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wkearney99

Gazoo382 said:


> I'm leaning towards cutting vents on the wood shelf above the unit and vents at the bottom to draw air in. I like the idea of ac infinity T7 2u rack fans with thermostat control. I'll probably start with a standard fan stuck at the bottom just to see if I can get air to circulate. Thx for replying. If anyone finds a good link for cooling within a very confined space let me know.


I don't have a link handy, but do recall seeing someone made wide slot grilles for just this sort of purpose. Give it a finished look, which might be hard to otherwise obtain when cabinetry is already installed. Cutting some slots with a router during construction can give a nice look. But a grille cover also gives you a way to hide any in-field hole edges. That and a way to gain access behind the grille for cleaning.

That and what you want is enough air volume moved to exchange heated air inside the cabinet with conditioned air from the room. Larger, slower turning fans can often be quieter than smaller, faster ones. I've seen many IT racks that use an array of four fans on the top of an enclosed rack cabinet to pull air up. I don't know how your cabinet there is constructed but my first thought is to put a grill on the lower baseboard section, some fans in the floor of the cabinet (under the rack) and use that to pull air from outside in from the bottom and push it upwards. If you have enough room at the top then something similar would work (possibly better). Some kind of box that collects the air at the top and pushes it out a slot grille, to avoid having direct fan holes on the top. 

I'd also look for a fan controller that supports dialing in a specific speed. That'd allow for fine-tuning to find the 'least annoying' speed while still getting effective airflow.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Sir Meili

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.
> 
> Any suggestions?


I use an IR repeater kit like this one from monoprice (I think this version replaced the one I have):

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18533

You also have to get a 3.5mm cable and adapter to go down to the 2.5mm input of the harmony. I've never had an issue. I even use one of the outputs to go directly into my receiver's IR in.

Here is the adapter that should work with any 3.5mm cable:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7122


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Sir Meili said:


> I use an IR repeater kit like this one from monoprice (I think this version replaced the one I have):
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18533
> 
> You also have to get a 3.5mm cable and adapter to go down to the 2.5mm input of the harmony. I've never had an issue. I even use one of the outputs to go directly into my receiver's IR in.
> 
> Here is the adapter that should work with any 3.5mm cable:
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7122


I'm a little confused how this would work? My understanding is that the output from the Harmony Hub are the IR bulbs. How would I get the IR bulb output into the Monoprice repeater?


----------



## Sir Meili

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I'm a little confused how this would work? My understanding is that the output from the Harmony Hub are the IR bulbs. How would I get the IR bulb output into the Monoprice repeater?


That is what the 3.5mm cable and adapter is for. The inputs on that IR Repeater will take the signal from the Harmony hub and split it for you into 5 emitters. So you take the 2.5mm -> 3.5mm adapter and plug that into the harmony (which has 2.5mm inputs). then plug in the 3.5mm into the adapter then the IR repeater.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Ah. So it doesn't have to through the bulb and can just go through the 3.5mm cable into the repeater? My assumption was it had to go through the bulb.


----------



## Sir Meili

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Ah. So it doesn't have to through the bulb and can just go through the 3.5mm cable into the repeater? My assumption was it had to go through the bulb.


Correct, then you just plug emitters into the repeater. Note that the Harmony ones won't work without adapters because they have 2.5mm plugs, but when I bought my repeater it came with emitters as well. I'm not sure that version comes with emitters, but you can buy them from amazon and/or monoprice I believe. The reviews for the new version on Monoprice aren't that great, but this one on amazon seems really well liked:

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Produ...id=1503931335&sr=8-3&keywords=IR+repeater+kit


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Awesome. Thanks!


----------



## Gazoo382

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.
> 
> Any suggestions?


I have had the Harmony hub and love it. I am using just One of the ir cables in my enclosed rack and because of glass front shelf it controls everything (about 6 devices). I think I have 2 not even being used. However I also have an IR light switch that is 35' away and the hub reaches it ok. (Unobstructed view). I'm replacing it with RF tomorrow. Slowing switching to Lutron Caseta for light and fan switches, controlled via Lutron hub via Alexa and Harmony. 

In the past, I had an IR light switch around the corner from the harmony hub and it wouldn't reach it. I installed a 50' cable (just regular 3.5mm with 2.5mm adaptor) and PAINTED the sensor white and glued it nearby the switch and it worked!

Bottom line, you don't need an IR cable for every device. Don't sweat it.


----------



## Gazoo382

wkearney99 said:


> I'd also look for a fan controller that supports dialing in a specific speed. That'd allow for fine-tuning to find the 'least annoying' speed while still getting effective airflow.


FYI, got all 7.1.2 set up and ran it heavy for a few hours. With no fan the temp got up to 98F. I know the electronic components are rated much higher and I don't know what shutdown temperatures are for each device. But I'd assume I want the number no higher than 90F? 85F? The rack has two large fans that are too loud. But I'll run them tomorrow and see the difference. (I'll leave doors open a few inches to simulate grill openings).


----------



## jconjason

I've started to look into a rack and have been considering an OmniMount RE12W, and a Tripp Lite 12US. I'm pretty undecided which way to go and haven't had much luck finding user opinions on these. Also,part of my decision is factoring the price of the shelves for each brand. OM seems to be priced a little lower than TL. Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.


----------



## thrillcat

jconjason said:


> Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.


You can use any shelves. If a standard shelf doesn't work, it's a problem with the rack, not the shelf. The rack rails need to be standard to allow any component to fit, shelves mount the same way. Depth would be the only variable, and every shelf I've seen is flexible for mounting at the rear of different depth racks, as long as it's within the correct depth range.


----------



## SMHarman

jconjason said:


> I've started to look into a rack and have been considering an OmniMount RE12W, and a Tripp Lite 12US. I'm pretty undecided which way to go and haven't had much luck finding user opinions on these. Also,part of my decision is factoring the price of the shelves for each brand. OM seems to be priced a little lower than TL. Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.


The cheapest shelf for the job works. All modular and I normally shop amazon for shelves. 

Don't forget a tub of 100 rack screws. All set on screws then.


----------



## jconjason

thrillcat said:


> You can use any shelves. If a standard shelf doesn't work, it's a problem with the rack, not the shelf. The rack rails need to be standard to allow any component to fit, shelves mount the same way. Depth would be the only variable, and every shelf I've seen is flexible for mounting at the rear of different depth racks, as long as it's within the correct depth range.





SMHarman said:


> The cheapest shelf for the job works. All modular and I normally shop amazon for shelves.
> 
> Don't forget a tub of 100 rack screws. All set on screws then.


Thank you both for the replies. Do either of you have an opinion of the 2 racks? They appear to be pretty much identical. The TL looks to have a higher weight limit. Thanks again!


----------



## SMHarman

jconjason said:


> Thank you both for the replies. Do either of you have an opinion of the 2 racks? They appear to be pretty much identical. The TL looks to have a higher weight limit. Thanks again!


Weight limits are largely unimportant on residential racks. 

I have no opinion on those. Go with the reviews elsewhere. My rack is SnapAV Strong. 

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snap...k-package---24-depth|42u-sr-cust-42u-24in-pkg

Other shelves are Amazon etc.


----------



## jconjason

SMHarman said:


> Weight limits are largely unimportant on residential racks.
> 
> I have no opinion on those. Go with the reviews elsewhere. My rack is SnapAV Strong.
> 
> https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snap...k-package---24-depth|42u-sr-cust-42u-24in-pkg
> 
> Other shelves are Amazon etc.


Thanks! I have Prime, so have been looking there as well. I appreciate the input.


----------



## pwlong

Really impressive stuff some of you guys have done.

Mine is pretty simple:


















See link in my signature for more details and the full theater build journal.


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## Gazoo382

Gazoo382 said:


> FYI, got all 7.1.2 set up and ran it heavy for a few hours. With no fan the temp got up to 98F. I know the electronic components are rated much higher and I don't know what shutdown temperatures are for each device. But I'd assume I want the number no higher than 90F? 85F? The rack has two large fans that are too loud. But I'll run them tomorrow and see the difference. (I'll leave doors open a few inches to simulate grill openings).


As far as temps, I ended up cutting a hole (in my brand new cabinets) for fan intake and one in the top for fan exhaust. Used. AC Infinity Airplate T3 and an S3. I also bought white grills. I then spray painted the fan blades white. (No counterweight issues). The problem I had was that the fan intake was louder than the one used for exhaust. I ended up taking the grill part off of it and will try to fit a filter instead. With this setup I can't go past level 2 on the fan or it's just too loud when sound volume is also low or off. However the good news is that the temps are topping out at 86-88F.

If your cab is in another room or insulated, no problem. I have speaker cloth and amp/tuner are in same room.

Note: added pic of controller. Currently cycles on/off at 81 and didn’t exceed 84F which is acceptable. I can run cooler but fan stays on longer. Plus I have it set at low rpm to lessen noise.


----------



## 04rex

Hey guys, I recently got the Middle Atlantic RCS4224 rack and I have a question. I have a Cerwin Vega CV-5000 amp which has the amp rack ears I guess they are called at the front, but not at the back. This is a very heavy amp. My issue is that I want to use the rack ears which are already a part of the amp, but because there is no support in the back, I need to use the shelf that came with the rack, but then I can't use the CVs rack mount. Does anyone have this amp in a rack that can help out? Is there another accessory or something I can buy for the CV so that I don't have to use the shelf and I can use what's already there and support the back?


Any help is appreciated.


Thanks, 
Dan


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> Hey guys, I recently got the Middle Atlantic RCS4224 rack and I have a question. I have a Cerwin Vega CV-5000 amp which has the amp rack ears I guess they are called at the front, but not at the back. This is a very heavy amp. My issue is that I want to use the rack ears which are already a part of the amp, but because there is no support in the back, I need to use the shelf that came with the rack, but then I can't use the CVs rack mount. Does anyone have this amp in a rack that can help out? Is there another accessory or something I can buy for the CV so that I don't have to use the shelf and I can use what's already there and support the back?
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


Do you need the shelf? 8 screws on the front should hold that in place.

Also the 8 screw holes on the back side tabs.


----------



## 04rex

Well when I asked Cerwin Vega, they said because it was heavy that it should be supported underneath as well. The back side tabs don't reach the screw holes in the back, that's why I am using the shelf. I thought of that as well but noticed when I tried to put it in that it didn't reach. I will check again tonight though.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> Well when I asked Cerwin Vega, they said because it was heavy that it should be supported underneath as well. The back side tabs don't reach the screw holes in the back, that's why I am using the shelf. I thought of that as well but noticed when I tried to put it in that it didn't reach. I will check again tonight though.


Huh, so they design something with rack ears and then say use a shelf. Sounds like you are speaking with someone who didn't design the chassis.

Rack Shelf Solid Cantilever 19" Rackmount 3U 15.5"D 9023. AMERICAN MADE! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHTIEVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wXH-zbZJ6E906

The CV500 weighs 83.3lbs.

The shelf above is an 80lb shelf and look it attaches with 8 screws on the front.


----------



## 04rex

Possibly. Maybe it is designed for a shorter rack?? I am not sure. Or a certain type of rack?? The front ears obviously fit no problem. The rear tabs or whatever don't reach.


----------



## deewan

Kevin4730 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm interested to know how you mounted the LED light strips. It appears you have good light coverage across the faces of all the equipment. Are the strips mounted facing each other, or towards the back of the rack? Perhaps at an angle?


----------



## SMHarman

SMHarman said:


> Huh, so they design something with rack ears and then say use a shelf. Sounds like you are speaking with someone who didn't design the chassis.
> 
> Rack Shelf Solid Cantilever 19" Rackmount 3U 15.5"D 9023. AMERICAN MADE! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHTIEVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wXH-zbZJ6E906
> 
> The CV500 weighs 83.3lbs.
> 
> The shelf above is an 80lb shelf and look it attaches with 8 screws on the front.





04rex said:


> Possibly. Maybe it is designed for a shorter rack?? I am not sure. Or a certain type of rack?? The front ears obviously fit no problem. The rear tabs or whatever don't reach.


But if you bought that shelf you would not be wondering if front screws only are enough to support 80lbs. That's it's design weight. 

Similarly the chassis of the amp will support it on those front screws.


----------



## Kevin4730

deewan said:


> I'm interested to know how you mounted the LED light strips. It appears you have good light coverage across the faces of all the equipment. Are the strips mounted facing each other, or towards the back of the rack? Perhaps at an angle?


Two sided tape on the railings. So, I guess facing each other. Looks good while the door is closed but if you have an open rack it wouldn’t blend in as good. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 04rex

The rack came with the shelves already. So I didn?t buy the shelf specifically for the amp. Obviously having a shelf like that helps now, but I didnt think I would need the shelf because there are already rack ears on the amp. I am glad it came with it though if this is what needs to be done. But I would prefer to just use the amp and not the shelf if I can.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> The rack came with the shelves already. So I didn?t buy the shelf specifically for the amp. Obviously having a shelf like that helps now, but I didnt think I would need the shelf because there are already rack ears on the amp. I am glad it came with it though if this is what needs to be done. But I would prefer to just use the amp and not the shelf if I can.


I'm 99.99% confident that 8 screws in the front will hold that in place on a MA (not cheap) rack.

The rack is rated for 1200 lbs. That's 27 per RU. That amp is 3 RU the math is perfect.


----------



## 04rex

Oh that’s what I was hoping for. It was cerwin Vega that lowered my confidence. I am scared to try it out and have it fall or something. That’s why I was hoping that someone had one so I can see wha they did to boost my confidence.


----------



## jconjason

04rex said:


> Oh that’s what I was hoping for. It was cerwin Vega that lowered my confidence. I am scared to try it out and have it fall or something. That’s why I was hoping that someone had one so I can see wha they did to boost my confidence.


I have my Denon 6300H mounted with the front ears and it's held up fine for about a month now. No weight issues. I do have a different rack than you, a TrippLite 15U, but that doesn't matter. If you are worried, mount it near the bottom.


----------



## SMHarman

You would want it near the bottom anyway to make sure you don't end up with a top heavy tip heavy rack.


----------



## jconjason

SMHarman said:


> You would want it near the bottom anyway to make sure you don't end up with a top heavy tip heavy rack.


That is true, however that depends on what other components you have as well.


----------



## SMHarman

jconjason said:


> That is true, however that depends on what other components you have as well.


True but not many people have multiple 80lb items in their racks.


----------



## 04rex

Lol. I actually do. I have another amp that’s about 93lbs that sits at the bottom. It is a bigger unit so I put that at the bottom. The CV is the next one from the bottom.


----------



## 04rex

Ok so I did what you said. I screwed in the 8 screws in the front and it seems to hold fine so far. I don’t notice much of a sag in the back. I mean there is a tiny bit but I guess that is expected. It looks like it will hold. To me it just doesn’t make sense that something so heavy could be held just by the front screws with no back support. I don’t know. Anyways, I guess I will lose a couple of days sleep over this wondering if it will fall or not. I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> Ok so I did what you said. I screwed in the 8 screws in the front and it seems to hold fine so far. I don’t notice much of a sag in the back. I mean there is a tiny bit but I guess that is expected. It looks like it will hold. To me it just doesn’t make sense that something so heavy could be held just by the front screws with no back support. I don’t know. Anyways, I guess I will lose a couple of days sleep over this wondering if it will fall or not. I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the help.


Your rack spec indicates the 
front and rear adjustable rackrails

What adjustment is that


----------



## 04rex

I am not sure. I am new to the rack game as you can tell. I am not sure. I assume it means I can place the shelves or whatever component kind of anywhere as there are screw holes through out the rails- but I would assume all racks are like that. It doesn’t look like I can adjust or change the actual rails. From what I can tell.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> I am not sure. I am new to the rack game as you can tell. I am not sure. I assume it means I can place the shelves or whatever component kind of anywhere as there are screw holes through out the rails- but I would assume all racks are like that. It doesn’t look like I can adjust or change the actual rails. From what I can tell.


Looks to be wider and narrower. Which is weird as everything is designed for the 19 inches. 

This is from the manual for your rack


----------



## 04rex

Yeah I saw that. That's how I put it in yesterday. I needed help though. It is a beast. When I get home today I will check on it to see how it is. Now since I am new to the Rack world, I assume a little bit of sag is normal for the heavier equipment? I put a level on it and my other heavy items, and there is the smallest amount of sag. Like small.


I think it will be ok from the looks of it. Like I said, to me it just seems weird that a heavy item like that wouldn't have any kind of rear support.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> Yeah I saw that. That's how I put it in yesterday. I needed help though. It is a beast. When I get home today I will check on it to see how it is. Now since I am new to the Rack world, I assume a little bit of sag is normal for the heavier equipment? I put a level on it and my other heavy items, and there is the smallest amount of sag. Like small.
> 
> 
> I think it will be ok from the looks of it. Like I said, to me it just seems weird that a heavy item like that wouldn't have any kind of rear support.


An aircraft wing is only supported at one end and that is super heavy when filled with fuel.


----------



## 04rex

Yeah. But that’s also engineered to the tits. But I get what your saying. I went and took a look and all looks well. For right now. Lol.


----------



## SMHarman

04rex said:


> Yeah. But that’s also engineered to the tits. But I get what your saying. I went and took a look and all looks well. For right now. Lol.


There is a joke in there about weight and sagging and support but I'm not going there.


----------



## 04rex

Lol, yeah, I think we have talked about enough weight and the effects of sagging for a while.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Not much of a rack but here's my setup:


----------



## SMHarman

enkrypt3d said:


> Not much of a rack but here's my setup:


That's some great resonance deadening on the floor there


----------



## enkrypt3d

SMHarman said:


> That's some great resonance deadening on the floor there


lol multi-function!


----------



## dennwood

This is a self built using 3/4" birch and routed in shelf brackets. One of the room subs will live in the nook below it. Space is so tight, it made sense to use some of the furnace room space to house the equipment. The back of the rack is accessible via the furnace room in the back, via a removable dampened panel. Just finishing up drywall now...



















Low height basement in a 100 yr old house...


----------



## SMHarman

dennwood said:


> This is a self built using 3/4" birch and routed in shelf brackets. One of the room subs will live in the nook below it. Space is so tight, it made sense to use some of the furnace room space to house the equipment. The back of the rack is accessible via the furnace room in the back, via a removable dampened panel. Just finishing up drywall now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Low height basement in a 100 yr old house...


How does the removable panel impact fire rating of the furnace room or do you not have such code requirements in your 'hood.


----------



## dennwood

Removeable, but built with two layers of 5/8”..so we should be good. It’s possible I’ll need to treat that panel
Like a fire rated door..we’ll see.


----------



## SMHarman

dennwood said:


> Removeable, but built with two layers of 5/8”..so we should be good. It’s possible I’ll need to treat that panel
> Like a fire rated door..we’ll see.


Indeed you may want some steel between those to make it fire rated.


----------



## TPGWCT

I am not certain if this is the best place to post this. Apologies if it is not.
I am looking for this exact rack (well, maybe with a couple more RU).
Does anyone recognize the manufacturer and/or knows who sells it?
Thanks


----------



## SMHarman

TPGWCT said:


> I am not certain if this is the best place to post this. Apologies if it is not.
> I am looking for this exact rack (well, maybe with a couple more RU).
> Does anyone recognize the manufacturer and/or knows who sells it?
> Thanks


Looks like a trimmed middle Atlantic with the covers on the screws etc in customer cab. Why you would not recess to get those handles out the way though.

Their TA - Trim Kit Adonized


----------



## TPGWCT

SMHarman said:


> Looks like a trimmed middle Atlantic with the covers on the screws etc in customer cab. Why you would not recess to get those handles out the way though.
> 
> Their TA - Trim Kit Adonized


Thanks, SMHarman
My amp is not the one in the picture. It is a McIntosh 206 and doesn't have those handles.


----------



## DougUSMC

Mine isn't as pretty as most on this thread. It was designed to be hidden most of the time, and accessible from within the server room. I built a custom rack into the room behind my HT, and opened up the wall to the middle of the bays. It's probably about 55U, yup, more than 7' tall. Basically the top 5ish Us of the rack are all cables and networking, the next 35 are gear, and the bottom 15 are power management. You can only see the middle 35 from within the room, accessing the whole thing is in the room behind the theater.

View of the "rack" from the front of the theater. The rack is hidden behind the middle panel on the back wall:


----------



## jedi1982

Hey all, I just posted this in my build thread but thought I'd make it official by posting here as well!










Also, here's a shot to give you an idea of its proximity to the theater (door is closed)


----------



## hkp2k

My new Middle Atlantic RCS-4224 showed up today! This will be a fun project over the break


----------



## marina_av

Nice! I have the RCS-1824 on the way. Can't wait to load it up.


----------



## SMHarman

hkp2k said:


> My new Middle Atlantic RCS-4224 showed up today! This will be a fun project over the break





marina_av said:


> Nice! I have the RCS-1824 on the way. Can't wait to load it up.


Arrives built. That's nice. I got a SNAP AV one and had to ikea that into a shape like this.


----------



## hkp2k

It is unwrapped and in place next to my "other" rack. Vertical power strip and wire strip installed. Next week it will all come together.


----------



## Kevin4730

hkp2k said:


> It is unwrapped and in place next to my "other" rack. Vertical power strip and wire strip installed. Next week it will all come together.



Nice racks!


----------



## happy hopping

anyone see where you can buy a AV rack like this? it originally from Netherland, but when I try to contact the maker, there is no response

https://imgur.com/a/rSUAB

alternatively, where do you find someone to custom build a wooden AV rack like this?


----------



## deewan

happy hopping said:


> anyone see where you can buy a AV rack like this? it originally from Netherland, but when I try to contact the maker, there is no response
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/rSUAB
> 
> alternatively, where do you find someone to custom build a wooden AV rack like this?


I would start by contacting some furniture makers in your area. They would have the resources, equipment and materials to make something like that. I'm guessing the original isn't cheap to purchase, and I promise a custom made rack won't be cheap either. But if that's the look you are going for, I'm not sure you have any other choices unless you want to tackle it yourself.


----------



## happy hopping

what do you think the approx. cost would be?


----------



## dhendriksen

happy hopping said:


> what do you think the approx. cost would be?




4 figures for sure. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## happy hopping

that much, I just drop my jaw


----------



## SMHarman

dhendriksen said:


> 4 figures for sure.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For sure. There is a lot of unpainted millwork there and those custom metal parts.


happy hopping said:


> that much, I just drop my jaw


A basic Snap or MA rack is in the mid to high 3 figure. Add doors and sides that gets to four figure.


----------



## happy hopping

is there some place on the interet that I can buy finished high quality wood, all painted in rectgular sizes of my choice?


----------



## IVRINGS

Still need to move a few things around, but this is how I'm doing with a 2 post rack. I know now I want my blu ray player lower for use, but it works for now. Just added the UPA 5 and enjoying it so far. I'll move into a 4 post soon.


----------



## JamesVG81

Just finished adding a few more things to my setup. Added outlaw audio amp and Sony x800 uhd player. Believe I'm done messing for a while. Can't believe it's almost full now.


----------



## fierce_gt

nothing fancy, but i'm happy with the results

















it's just a simple shelf system, open to the crawlspace for access








messy wiring, but i wasn't going to waste time since it all had to come apart to paint anyway


----------



## gdfein

Looking for advice on rack layout. My equipment list is as follows:

C4 800 Controller
ATV 4K and Sonos Connect and DTV C61K mini
Sony PS4
Xbox One
Oppo UDP-203
DTV HR54 Genie DVR
Space
Panamax M5400-PM
Space
Marantz AV8802A
Space
ATI AT528NC - 8Ch
Space
ATI AT543NC - 3Ch

I’m using a MA Slim5, 29U on casters and wondering if I can cram all this in 29U and have adequate ventilation. I am height limited and the 29U on the 4” casters is max height. This rack tucks into an alcove under stairs in a storage room adjacent to my theater. 

My logic in putting the amps and AVR lowest as they are heaviest giving rack a low COG for max stability. I also figured it will be easy to bundle 11ch of speaker wires together into the pass-through to the theater. I also figured this would allow for relatively short interconnects between AMPs and PrePro. 

I have the frame of the rack put together and the first three 4U ventilated shelves screwed in with a 1U spacer in between working from bottom up and now “analysis paralysis” is setting in. For example should I reverse the Marantz and Panamax so that HDMI and Ethernet from above don’t have to run past the panamax? But then the audio interconnects run past the Panamax to the amps. 

Argh!!

Help and recommendations welcome to unlock my paralysis. 

Thanks,
Greg


----------



## LydMekk

Remember the amps give out heat so placing them low will heat all other pieces mounted higher in the rack.


----------



## rmazeffa

*cooling fan install for my built-in-shelf based equipment?*

see photo... 

We want to leave the doors as-is, and leave them closed. I have an IR repeater so I'm all good when it comes to sending signals, but it's getting too warm in the enclosure and I want to put in a basic cooling fan with thermostat.

I know a simple cooling fan like an 'AC Infinity Airplane T3' fan would do the trick, but that fan (and all models like it) seem to require access on both sides of the cabinet wall, in order to install. (I want to mount the fan on the inside-back wall of my enclosure, which means I only have access to 1 side of the wall. Naturally I cannot/do-not want to mount any fans on the front doors.)


Maybe there are cooling fans that only require access from 1 side in order to mount? (but I haven't found any yet...hmmmmm)

Thx for any ideas or thoughts!

Rob


----------



## Waterboy77

rmazeffa said:


> see photo...
> 
> We want to leave the doors as-is, and leave them closed. I have an IR repeater so I'm all good when it comes to sending signals, but it's getting too warm in the enclosure and I want to put in a basic cooling fan with thermostat.
> 
> I know a simple cooling fan like an 'AC Infinity Airplane T3' fan would do the trick, but that fan (and all models like it) seem to require access on both sides of the cabinet wall, in order to install. (I want to mount the fan on the inside-back wall of my enclosure, which means I only have access to 1 side of the wall. Naturally I cannot/do-not want to mount any fans on the front doors.)
> 
> 
> Maybe there are cooling fans that only require access from 1 side in order to mount? (but I haven't found any yet...hmmmmm)
> 
> Thx for any ideas or thoughts!
> 
> Rob


Hi Rob, I hope this gives you some ideas....
It's tough to see how much space you have behind the equipment but if you can fit the fans at the back in a "removable" enclosure.
For air to really move you need an in and an out.... 
Check out the drawing as I will probably fail to describe it very well
Basically two heat registers mounted to the from under the doors and using the lower part of cabinet as "ducting" to the inside of the cabinet


----------



## rmazeffa

Waterboy77 said:


> Hi Rob, I hope this gives you some ideas....
> It's tough to see how much space you have behind the equipment but if you can fit the fans at the back in a "removable" enclosure.
> For air to really move you need an in and an out....
> Check out the drawing as I will probably fail to describe it very well
> Basically two heat registers mounted to the from under the doors and using the lower part of cabinet as "ducting" to the inside of the cabinet


hi, thx for the cooling ideas. Yeah, that could work! I have a space for a register as your diagram shows, didn't think of that!


----------



## filmmixr

*Ok. Here are mine*

Here are my pics of our recently (almost) completed theater..


----------



## enkrypt3d

filmmixr said:


> Here are my pics of our recently (almost) completed theater..


very cool cabinet. Are you using an IR repeater or something?


----------



## IVRINGS

Anyone have any RSH shelfs without faceplates? Looking for three 2U and one 3U. Let me know. As I want to get out of my two post rack cause I have my 4 post in a box.


----------



## filmmixr

enkrypt3d said:


> very cool cabinet. Are you using an IR repeater or something?


Thank you.. it's compact which I like.
I'm not using any IR repeaters. They seem quite complex to me.

The entire room is run via ios interfaces;

1. The Blu Ray is a standard Sony unit, they have a remote app called Video & TV sideview.
2. Sound switching and control (receiver in residential terms) is a custom system that I designed and built from BSS Soundweb London integrated downstream of the Dolby decoders.
3. Lighting is Philips Hue.

I'm a sound designer for film and television and I also work in the room so I wanted the same headroom as the theatrical mix stages I work on. That meant all professional reference equipment from D to A conversion through to the monitoring system. The room is currently 7.1 and is wired for atmos - we just haven't spent the money yet on the additional components.


----------



## deewan

IVRINGS said:


> Anyone have any RSH shelfs without faceplates? Looking for three 2U and one 3U. Let me know. As I want to get out of my two post rack cause I have my 4 post in a box.


I don't have any without face plates. I have one shelf with a face plate for the UPA-5 you show.  

I suggest looking at Parts Express if you just need a shelf and not the face plate. Or even eBay. I've purchased several shelves for my rack without a face plate and had good luck at both sites. They are RSH equivalent but much cheaper.


----------



## IVRINGS

deewan said:


> I don't have any without face plates. I have one shelf with a face plate for the UPA-5 you show.
> 
> I suggest looking at Parts Express if you just need a shelf and not the face plate. Or even eBay. I've purchased several shelves for my rack without a face plate and had good luck at both sites. They are RSH equivalent but much cheaper.


Well I want the RSH shelf only so I will be able to add the face plates later. I can buy locally standard shelves for $25-35, but after I swap them out I would have extras laying around. I don't want them to start being like car parts with me. As for the UPA I have the black trim from Gen 2 and rack ears from Emotiva and my Denon X4300H. So No need for those to be mounted on shelves. Can't beat the pricing of the rack ears for them.


----------



## deewan

@IVRINGS I have purchased all my RSH shelves and face plates from https://www.customavrack.com/category/20-middle-atlantic-custom-rack-shelves.aspx. They used to have the best prices I could find. If I remember correctly it adds some cost of you purchase the shelf and face plate separately. Might want to bite the bullet and order them together now.


----------



## IVRINGS

deewan said:


> @IVRINGS I have purchased all my RSH shelves and face plates from https://www.customavrack.com/category/20-middle-atlantic-custom-rack-shelves.aspx. They used to have the best prices I could find. If I remember correctly it adds some cost of you purchase the shelf and face plate separately. Might want to bite the bullet and order them together now.


I sent in a quote to the e-mail asking about that. The problem is in waiting to see what happens with the oppo unit if it is getting updated from what Sony did that is messing everyone up. Also I would replace my Xbox one before I spend $120-140 for a faceplate for it. So it would be buying two units and then all the shelfs it would be to much at this time with a kiddo due in the next 15-35 days.


----------



## Tatts4Life

So many cool looking racks and I'm not even a third of the way through the thread. This thread has given me so many ideas when I finally can build my HT. Keystone speaker wire post? I would never of thought about that as an organization method.


----------



## v8maro

Where could I buy a glass front door (smoke) for my half rack?


----------



## deewan

v8maro said:


> Where could I buy a glass front door (smoke) for my half rack?


According to google there are several places. Here is one of them: Middle Atlantic glass Door

Not sure if that door will fit your specific model since you didn't list your model. But a google search should reveal your answer.


----------



## v8maro

deewan said:


> According to google there are several places. Here is one of them: Middle Atlantic glass Door
> 
> Not sure if that door will fit your specific model since you didn't list your model. But a google search should reveal your answer.


Awesome, thanks. I don't have a rack yet, I was considering building my own shelves then adding a glass door - do you know if that door only fits a MA rack?


----------



## darrellh44

I keep seeing this thread pop-up in the 'Active Topics' window from time to time. I don't care how popular this thread gets, y'all are not getting a cheap quickie peek at my man breasts. But I do happen to have a nice set though.


----------



## IP11

fierce_gt said:


> nothing fancy, but i'm happy with the results


Hey Fierce. I love the look of your space.

What dimensions did you go with for this opening? I am thinking of doing something very similar.

Thanks


----------



## Tedd

gdfein said:


> Looking for advice on rack layout. My equipment list is as follows:
> 
> C4 800 Controller
> ATV 4K and Sonos Connect and DTV C61K mini
> Sony PS4
> Xbox One
> Oppo UDP-203
> DTV HR54 Genie DVR
> Space
> Panamax M5400-PM
> Space
> Marantz AV8802A
> Space
> ATI AT528NC - 8Ch
> Space
> ATI AT543NC - 3Ch
> 
> I’m using a MA Slim5, 29U on casters and wondering if I can cram all this in 29U and have adequate ventilation. I am height limited and the 29U on the 4” casters is max height. This rack tucks into an alcove under stairs in a storage room adjacent to my theater.
> 
> My logic in putting the amps and AVR lowest as they are heaviest giving rack a low COG for max stability. I also figured it will be easy to bundle 11ch of speaker wires together into the pass-through to the theater. I also figured this would allow for relatively short interconnects between AMPs and PrePro.
> 
> I have the frame of the rack put together and the first three 4U ventilated shelves screwed in with a 1U spacer in between working from bottom up and now “analysis paralysis” is setting in. For example should I reverse the Marantz and Panamax so that HDMI and Ethernet from above don’t have to run past the panamax? But then the audio interconnects run past the Panamax to the amps.
> 
> Argh!!
> 
> Help and recommendations welcome to unlock my paralysis.
> 
> Thanks,
> Greg


You could put in a solid shelf, and use a fan panel to vent the lower amps out the back, as a separate space.


----------



## fierce_gt

IP11 said:


> Hey Fierce. I love the look of your space.
> 
> What dimensions did you go with for this opening? I am thinking of doing something very similar.
> 
> Thanks


it's 21" x 36"

i basically just chose the width based on the HTPC case, and height was limited by the 'half-wall' height i had to work with


----------



## IP11

fierce_gt said:


> it's 21" x 36"
> 
> i basically just chose the width based on the HTPC case, and height was limited by the 'half-wall' height i had to work with


Thanks


----------



## Waterboy77

Any good ideas out there for organizing small equipment in a rack?
For example raspberry pi, odroid, small switches, IR splitters..... etc
Given the Pi has cables coming out in every direction it makes a mess really quickly


----------



## thrillcat

Waterboy77 said:


> Any good ideas out there for organizing small equipment in a rack?
> For example raspberry pi, odroid, small switches, IR splitters..... etc
> Given the Pi has cables coming out in every direction it makes a mess really quickly


I use heavy duty velcro (this is the best I've found, it's rock solid) (3M Dual Lock Tape will work too) to fasten things to shelves to keep them in place. Anything that needs line of sight goes across the front, anything that doesn't need it can be placed behind. So across the front of the shelf is a nice row of my AppleTV, TiVo Mini, and the front display of my ethernet switch, and they hide the rest of the stuff.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Does anyone have any ideas on how to handle the plate at the bottom of this rack? My plan is to cut a hole in the wall and push it up flush with the wall from the back. I'm guessing I'm just going to have to unbolt it and cut off part of the bracket?

You can kind of see what I'm referring to in this picture at the bottom of the rack. It sticks out about 8 - 10".


----------



## wkearney99

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to handle the plate at the bottom of this rack? My plan is to cut a hole in the wall and push it up flush with the wall from the back. I'm guessing I'm just going to have to unbolt it and cut off part of the bracket?
> 
> You can kind of see what I'm referring to in this picture at the bottom of the rack. It sticks out about 8 - 10".


A better picture wouldn't hurt. That and what make/model rack is it? 

Some racks have ledges and such like that at the bottom to hold cantilever weights and such. I re-purposed an old HP tape drive rack some time ago. It had a phenomenally heavy 9 track tape drive mounted in the upper portion of the rack. Underneath the base was a 100+ pound slab of metal designed to help counteract the tipping potential for the tape drive. Scrap value on that was worth more than what I paid for the whole shebang! Another rack that previously held Sun workstation gear had a part like that for some doors.

Before you cut anything off, it'd be useful to know why it was there in the first place. That and the metal they use for racks is often seriously tough. Might take a better saw or grinder blade than you'd expect. At least if you want it to avoid looking like a hack job.


----------



## Tedd

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to handle the plate at the bottom of this rack? My plan is to cut a hole in the wall and push it up flush with the wall from the back. I'm guessing I'm just going to have to unbolt it and cut off part of the bracket?
> 
> You can kind of see what I'm referring to in this picture at the bottom of the rack. It sticks out about 8 - 10".



You could simply use a 4" angle grinder from Harbor Freight to cut it off.

That cut off plate also might be re-purposed, bolted to the back rails, if you want to hang small stuff from it.

I've cut down several racks using a 4" angle grinder. over the years. My first metal av rack was 2 post computer rack, that I cut down. 
I cleaned up the rack rash with the grinder, and sprayed it out in a rattle can hammered finish. The results were rather nice, so I plan to 
re-purpose some older MA face plates I have, and cut new openings for newer gear I've bought. The unify all my face plates I have. I also 
plan to spray out my antique art deco exit sign and Bazz Cube 30 spot lights, for my next theater. I think that should be a few alternative finishes 
for what is going to be a pretty black cave of a room. 

I assume you'll trim out the rack with wood moldings, but the opening could also be trimmed out with drywall metal edge channel, if you want a clean
fitted modern look. If you are doing a wood trim, I'd suggest you frame the opening, to have something to nail the trim to, in behind.


----------



## deewan

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to handle the plate at the bottom of this rack? My plan is to cut a hole in the wall and push it up flush with the wall from the back. I'm guessing I'm just going to have to unbolt it and cut off part of the bracket?
> 
> You can kind of see what I'm referring to in this picture at the bottom of the rack. It sticks out about 8 - 10".


I have that exact same rack. The outriggers can be removed. I actually just put my rack back together today. I still have the outriggers but never installed them.


----------



## gdfein

Mine is starting to come together. Dual Slim-5 29U will be bolted together. These will be going under stairs in the room adjacent to my theater. 

Still waiting on my side panels and a couple storage drawers. I just bolted in the T7N intake and T7 exhaust fan kits. Super impressed with the AC Infinity products. 

I welcome any suggestions before I get too much further down the line and start wiring. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

deewan said:


> I have that exact same rack. The outriggers can be removed. I actually just put my rack back together today. I still have the outriggers but never installed them.


Just to clarify, you completely removed them? As in just unbolted them and set them to the side?


----------



## deewan

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Just to clarify, you completely removed them? As in just unbolted them and set them to the side?


That is correct. Actually my outriggers (both bottom and top) have never been installed. They just sit in the bottom section in case I ever sell the rack and the person wants them. I would think if you put a ton of weight up top and very little weight at the bottom you could install the outriggers for added balance. but I've had about 350 lbs of equipment loaded in the rack and never had an issue with stability.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

deewan said:


> That is correct. Actually my outriggers (both bottom and top) have never been installed. They just sit in the bottom section in case I ever sell the rack and the person wants them. I would think if you put a ton of weight up top and very little weight at the bottom you could install the outriggers for added balance. but I've had about 350 lbs of equipment loaded in the rack and never had an issue with stability.


Awesome. Thanks! Now I just have to figure out if I want to cut a hole in the wall the size of the rack when I only have about 12 - 14U of equipment right now.


----------



## dennwood

Here's an update on the rack pic I posted a few months ago. Construction is 3/4" birch, with a face frame of white pine. I used Benjamin Moore "Aura" Matte black for the finish. The theatre is an ATMOS 7.1.4 build with two Paradigm 3200 DSP subs, Paradigm speakers, and the Denon AVR-X4400 + older Denon AVR-2310 to provide the full 11 channels.

The theatre in November, a few months back:










and as of last night...still lots of work to do, but things are coming together.




















The pile of wire is more or less organized back there!



















Backing into the HVAC room hides all the wiring quite nicely, but provides easy access to the back of the rack. I do have to add a layer of 5/8" drywall to fire rate the assembly..


----------



## Deja-vue

Here is mine:


----------



## Deja-vue

Cabinet closed:


----------



## JoeAngelicchio

dennwood said:


> Here's an update on the rack pic I posted a few months ago. Construction is 3/4" birch, with a face frame of white pine. I used Benjamin Moore "Aura" Matte black for the finish. The theatre is an ATMOS 7.1.4 build with two Paradigm 3200 DSP subs, Paradigm speakers, and the Denon AVR-X4400 + older Denon AVR-2310 to provide the full 11 channels.
> 
> The theatre in November, a few months back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and as of last night...still lots of work to do, but things are coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pile of wire is more or less organized back there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backing into the HVAC room hides all the wiring quite nicely, but provides easy access to the back of the rack. I do have to add a layer of 5/8" drywall to fire rate the assembly..


Very nice!!!! :smile:


----------



## dennwood

Thanks Joe


----------



## jdlynch

Here's my rack. I'm fortunate to have a good friend that also enjoys woodworking.


----------



## IVRINGS

Updated mine to a 4 post rack. So much nicer looking and flush front is great. Need some more blocking panels and power system. Going to run a new 20 amp circuit for amp and AVR.


----------



## TMcG

jdlynch said:


> Here's my rack. I'm fortunate to have a good friend that also enjoys woodworking.




Nice rack and especially nice Datasat amp and processor!


----------



## jdlynch

TMcG said:


> Nice rack and especially nice Datasat amp and processor!


Thank you. With the Datasat gear my room has never sounded better!


----------



## thrillcat

Danonano said:


> Some awesome looking racks in here.
> 
> 
> 
> How do I get educated on how to mount consumer A/V gear in a rack? Is there a good place to start? thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Dan




Middle Atlantic sells faceplates for most gear, and other than that it’s just shelves. If your gear is 3RU high, get a 3RU shelf. Pretty basic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dhendriksen

jdlynch said:


> Here's my rack. I'm fortunate to have a good friend that also enjoys woodworking.




Did you frame out that opening from the other side any better? You don’t want to just slice a stud like that and not frame your opening out...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Danonano

thrillcat said:


> Middle Atlantic sells faceplates for most gear, and other than that it’s just shelves. If your gear is 3RU high, get a 3RU shelf. Pretty basic.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Got it, thanks.


----------



## Danonano

Not sure what thread to post in, but had another quick question:

Will a Middle Atlantic shelf work in a Sanus rack?


----------



## GPowers

Danonano said:


> Not sure what thread to post in, but had another quick question:
> 
> Will a Middle Atlantic shelf work in a Sanus rack?


Most racks are the industry standard of 19" and most shelfs and accessories also fit that 19" industry standard.


----------



## abinav555

Seeing a lot of custom made racks here. Any ideas to custom make an acoustic rack ? I found one company in my city that makes acoustic racks reducing to level to upto 30db but seems to be almost 4500$ in my country's money.


----------



## SMHarman

abinav555 said:


> Seeing a lot of custom made racks here. Any ideas to custom make an acoustic rack ? I found one company in my city that makes acoustic racks reducing to level to upto 30db but seems to be almost 4500$ in my country's money.


No, standard Middle Atlantic or SnapAV are the way installers go.

These custom builds are usually friends or self installs with carpentry skills and time on their hands. Snap is especially well priced. 

And a 30 dB noise reduction sounds like pennies on turntable arm myths. Love to see the data behind that.

The other source for the cost conscious is local for sale ads, when companies sell surplus hardware. That can include racks.


----------



## abinav555

SMHarman said:


> No, standard Middle Atlantic or SnapAV are the way installers go.
> 
> These custom builds are usually friends or self installs with carpentry skills and time on their hands. Snap is especially well priced.
> 
> And a 30 dB noise reduction sounds like pennies on turntable arm myths. Love to see the data behind that.
> 
> The other source for the cost conscious is local for sale ads, when companies sell surplus hardware. That can include racks.


Thanks. Will look into SnapAV.

The company I am currently looking at is called Netrack and here is the link for the Acoustic rack;

https://www.netrackindia.com/acoustic-server-rack.php?id=1


----------



## Neurorad

abinav555 said:


> Thanks. Will look into SnapAV.
> 
> The company I am currently looking at is called Netrack and here is the link for the Acoustic rack;
> 
> https://www.netrackindia.com/acoustic-server-rack.php?id=1


Isobox is another company that makes noise-isolating racks

https://www.soundconstructionsupply.com/isobox-studio/


----------



## SMHarman

abinav555 said:


> Thanks. Will look into SnapAV.
> 
> The company I am currently looking at is called Netrack and here is the link for the Acoustic rack;
> 
> https://www.netrackindia.com/acoustic-server-rack.php?id=1


Do you need a soundproof rack or will it be in a separate space.


----------



## abinav555

Neurorad said:


> Isobox is another company that makes noise-isolating racks
> 
> https://www.soundconstructionsupply.com/isobox-studio/


Thanks. I'll look into that as well.


----------



## abinav555

SMHarman said:


> Do you need a soundproof rack or will it be in a separate space.


I would definitely need a soundproof rack as it is in the same room and all the equipment like amplifiers for living room audio and bedroom audio are wired to the said room. But I can't wrap my head around the cost. Would get a normal rack and be happy if it were a choice but seems like a necessity now.


----------



## SMHarman

abinav555 said:


> I would definitely need a soundproof rack as it is in the same room and all the equipment like amplifiers for living room audio and bedroom audio are wired to the said room. But I can't wrap my head around the cost. Would get a normal rack and be happy if it were a choice but seems like a necessity now.


Still, do you need a soundproof rack. Most equipment is passive cooled and enough spacing can often be adequate if it is in a bigger room

You are not racking up 20 blade servers and a switch.


----------



## wkearney99

You can chase noise reduction to ridiculous extremes. You really have to analyze what does or doesn't need to be in a given location. If the location is not noise tolerant then without spending a LOT of money you need to find a different place to put the gear. Or get different gear that has better thermal management. 

It would be worth searching for other threads or starting a new one to have this discussion.


----------



## freezinghot

Here is my new position for my room, it is at the back of the room, for the gear I have listed would I need a bigger rack, maybe the 29u?

This is what I sent my supplier here in New Zealand. They also told me they only do custom face plates for people with super yachts! Just because they are sooooo expensive to get!

“I have done a couple of things in my media room, I have made a decision on where it will sit which is at the back of the room, currently it sits at the front on some shelving I made. Also I have masked out the area for the rack to be installed into the wall. The measurements I have of the middle Atlantic slim 5 rack is 482mm w x 933mm h x 508mm d. ( is this correct for the 21?) I like the size of this so could you please check my audio gear will all fit inside. Also if there is any room left could I maybe have a drawer to house all my remotes? I find I have so many and would like to put them away in the rack if possible.

So to the audio gear, here is a list of what I have now, also at the bottom of the list I may add a power amplifier at some stage, I will give you the model number for this as well. I have also attached some photos of what I like, I realise the custom face plates will be too expensive but if I could get something close I will be happy.

Audio gear is:
1. Yamaha adventage 1060 receiver
2. Oppo blu Ray player 103d
3. My sky decoder
4. PlayStation 4
5. Emotiva XPA-3 Gen3 Modular Amplifier 3 Channel (power amplifier)”


----------



## freezinghot

Sir Meili said:


> Here is my rack as it stands today. It's still a work in progress (I need t to add some trim to it):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is a quick shot of the back. I can get more detailed pics if anyone wants, or you can go to my closet build thread below.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put up a thread of most of the process from studs to today if you'd like to take a look. Its here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1470115/my-home-theater-rack-and-equipment-room


What size rack is this.


----------



## Sir Meili

freezinghot said:


> What size rack is this.


Tripp Lite 45U 4-Post Open Frame Rack, Network Equipment Rack, 1000 lb. Capacity (SR4POST) (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAKFNC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

In hindsight though, I would have gone with a Middle Atlantic rack, even though it costs more. there is nothing wrong with my tripp lite, but the MA racks offer better cable management, especially on the sides, which I wish I had access too (I've since made my own, but they are not as good).


----------



## freezinghot

IVRINGS said:


> Updated mine to a 4 post rack. So much nicer looking and flush front is great. Need some more blocking panels and power system. Going to run a new 20 amp circuit for amp and AVR.


What brand of rack is this?


----------



## IVRINGS

freezinghot said:


> What brand of rack is this?


startech 42U


----------



## freezinghot

I have been quoted $3000 nz dollars for a middle Atlantic rack it is a 21U rack with shelving, blanking panels etc. it seems very expensive! What type of prices are you guys getting in the states?

Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

Still working on my media rack so can I include my lighting system for the house instead?


----------



## NickTheGreat

Luminated67 said:


> Still working on my media rack so can I include my lighting system for the house instead?


Please don't

...it makes the rest of us look bad


----------



## popalock

luminated67 said:


> still working on my media rack so can i include my lighting system for the house instead?


w...t...f...


----------



## wkearney99

Luminated67 said:


> Still working on my media rack so can I include my lighting system for the house instead?


Low voltage european DIN rail mounted lighting? Neat stuff.


----------



## SMHarman

It's the blue wire.


----------



## femi

popalock said:


> w...t...f...


lol...you made me spill my coffee reading your response


----------



## bluer101

I can finally post in this thread.  Entrance to our theater is basically done along with the rack just outside the entrance. With it in the hallway it’s harder to get a full photo seeing it’s tall (45u). So I took a photo of the entrance and few of the rack from top to bottom.


----------



## KevinH

Hi guys. Does anyone know if there is a general guide around about arranging an AV rack? What best goes where with regards to placement of receiver/pre-pro, amps, video sources, power conditioners etc???


----------



## SMHarman

Weight toward the bottom, separate power and audio / video / data cables on the lift / right of the rack as they run up and down. 

Space for heat dissipation above hotter devices.


----------



## KevinH

SMHarman said:


> Weight toward the bottom, separate power and audio / video / data cables on the lift / right of the rack as they run up and down.
> 
> Space for heat dissipation above hotter devices.


Thanks Harman. So power cables down the left or right side, then audio/video/data down the opposite side?


----------



## jconjason

KevinH said:


> Thanks Harman. So power cables down the left or right side, then audio/video/data down the opposite side?


If I may add to this question...what do you all use inside your racks for cable management? I've been looking at a few products but not sure what to go with. I'm currently using Velcro ties but would like something down each side in the back, to strap the cables to.

Appreciate any ideas!


----------



## SMHarman

Yes


KevinH said:


> Thanks Harman. So power cables down the left or right side, then audio/video/data down the opposite side?


----------



## bluer101

jconjason said:


> If I may add to this question...what do you all use inside your racks for cable management? I've been looking at a few products but not sure what to go with. I'm currently using Velcro ties but would like something down each side in the back, to strap the cables to.
> 
> Appreciate any ideas!


I bought these off eBay. I still need to install them in my rack. 

https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod.../p-series-2-in-wide-lacing-strips/lace-p.aspx


----------



## Carboraine

My rack (installed as part of my recent theater build)...

From top to bottom

2x patch panels
HP 5130-48G-POE+ - 4SFP+ (core switch)
Netgear XS728T (10GbE switch)
Netgear SRX5308 (router)
Qnap TS-1263U-RP (4k HDR film server)
Aurender N100H (audio source)
Nvidia Shield (media player)
PlayStation 4 Pro
Xbox One X
Middle Atlantic Laptop Drawer
Control4 EA5 (control brain)
Control4 C4-16AMP3-B (8 zone amplifier)
Datasat RS20i (theater processor)
Datasat RA7300 (7 channel amplifier)
Vent
Mark Levinson No 532 (2 channel amplifier)
Vent
Furman IT-Reference 20i (line conditioner)
APC SMT1500RM2UC (UPS)

Speakers, projector, etc... are in my signature. Planning on starting a thread for my build.
























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## freezinghot

bluer101 said:


> I can finally post in this thread.  Entrance to our theater is basically done along with the rack just outside the entrance. With it in the hallway it’s harder to get a full photo seeing it’s tall (45u). So I took a photo of the entrance and few of the rack from top to bottom.


That’s nice and clean, here is my new rack in a box, it is a sanus I think it is 23U.

Can wait to get it installed!


----------



## freezinghot

freezinghot said:


> That’s nice and clean, here is my new rack in a box, it is a sanus I think it is 23U.
> 
> Can wait to get it installed!


What type of rack is this?


----------



## bluer101

freezinghot said:


> That’s nice and clean, here is my new rack in a box, it is a sanus I think it is 23U.
> 
> Can wait to get it installed!


Thank you. 

Is that a full rack or just front rails. I did just rails and built my enclosure out of 3/4 birch plywood.


----------



## freezinghot

bluer101 said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Is that a full rack or just front rails. I did just rails and built my enclosure out of 3/4 birch plywood.


It is this, building it into a false wall so hopefully it looks good when complete.


----------



## hnupe

My humble rack


----------



## SMHarman

jconjason said:


> If I may add to this question...what do you all use inside your racks for cable management? I've been looking at a few products but not sure what to go with. I'm currently using Velcro ties but would like something down each side in the back, to strap the cables to.
> 
> Appreciate any ideas!


Horizontal Lacer Bars ("L" Bar) Bars LPB-1A (one bag of 10 bars) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J17OG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_waAhBbGYJZJ22

And velcro wraps. 

VELCRO Brand - ONE WRAP Thin Ties, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nbAhBbY2DKAJQ

While you 'think' you rearrange stuff all the time, you don't.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Just ordered my 22U NavePoint rack with glass door and casters... with 3 15" shelves and one 7" shelf for the networking gear (modem / router etc)... Can't wait to get it all setup!


----------



## BllDo

htdhvy said:


> My rack (installed as part of my recent theater build)...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That's an impressive list of hardware. Please do start a build thread. We'd love to see the room that's home to that gear.


----------



## KevinH

Guys, is it generally recommended to take the feet off of every component when you rack mount? I thought I read that somewhere. Seems if you leave 1RU between components, but you don't take feet off, your component will be higher than the 1RU space and any blanks used in between won't fit or cover correctly?


----------



## freezinghot

KevinH said:


> Guys, is it generally recommended to take the feet off of every component when you rack mount? I thought I read that somewhere. Seems if you leave 1RU between components, but you don't take feet off, your component will be higher than the 1RU space and any blanks used in between won't fit or cover correctly?


Taking the feet off just seems wrong!


----------



## Tedd

You don't need to take the feet off, if you space out your gear and use blank, or vented face plates.

This might even be something of necessity with a vertically cooled active stack type of rack. You need to look at how each 
component is cooled, and give careful consideration on how to accommodate it's needed airflow. An example might be a 
htpc in the rack and it might need some spacing up top, to have adequate cooling.


----------



## towercontrol

*feet off?*



freezinghot said:


> Taking the feet off just seems wrong!


So I have a couple vented spacers/fill ins, that mount as normal but do have a top and bottom edge that folds back into the rack about a finger width. So depending on the piece or equipment above the blank. It could contact the feet of the item above. But not all units have massive feet and not all blanks are like the couple I have. So I'm just putting this out there to know. It could have been such issue with where ever you hear that from. Taking the feet off would have allowed it to sit flush. I had an amp once with that issue. So I know it, perhaps others have too. But for me I just put it on additional different feet, worked fine for me. So all in all, just chiming in.


----------



## Daniel Chaves

This may not be the place to ask but I bought a used Middle Atlantic 21U rack and it has obvious signs of wear in terms of the paint finish being scratched in a few places. What would you recommend I use to fix it? I was think of buying that spray wrinkle outdoor paint from Home Depot / Lowes or my other idea was that roll on bed liner. Thanks for your help.


----------



## TMcG

Daniel Chaves said:


> This may not be the place to ask but I bought a used Middle Atlantic 21U rack and it has obvious signs of wear in terms of the paint finish being scratched in a few places. What would you recommend I use to fix it? I was think of buying that spray wrinkle outdoor paint from Home Depot / Lowes or my other idea was that roll on bed liner. Thanks for your help.


Middle Atlantic offers their own touch-up paint, product code "WRINKLE". https://www.middleatlantic.com/products/accessories/hardware-fasteners/other-hardware/wrinkle.aspx

The underside of the bottle's cap has one of those little touch up brushes attached for easy and precise application, similar to a bottle of white-out.


----------



## Daniel Chaves

TMcG said:


> Middle Atlantic offers their own touch-up paint, product code "WRINKLE". https://www.middleatlantic.com/products/accessories/hardware-fasteners/other-hardware/wrinkle.aspx
> 
> The underside of the bottle's cap has one of those little touch up brushes attached for easy and precise application, similar to a bottle of white-out.


oh wow, thank you so much, that is really helpful.


----------



## Glimmie

Taking feet off is a case by case determination. The most important consideration is cooling. If the device has bottom vent holes, then by all means that space the feet provide should be maintained. In other cases it may look better elevated. Most gear that is or has optional rack mounting is designed for the feet to be removed although you still may need to provide a cooling space below it.

P.S. I should also mention to always save the feet and screws. If nowhere else put then in a bag tied to the rack.


----------



## Daniel Chaves

I just bought this for $120.00, as is, what you see. From what I can research the frame of the rack, the rolling feet, and the 5 shelves new goes for around $600 to $1000 so I think I got myself a pretty good deal. As you can see its a bit scratched up in some areas but I will sand and repaint the rack or just touch it up.


----------



## Art Sonneborn




----------



## Daniel Chaves

I'm trying to figure out what RU/U shelf heights I will need and how I should best arrange everything. The rack is 40 inches tall and is a 21ru/u so here is my best guess/estimation on what size each of my hardware will need. Suggestions and corrections greatly welcomed as this is my first time owning an AV Rack. Thanks.

Oh also anyone know where is the cheapest place to get blank face plates and made some custom face plates that surround the gear to fill up gaps?


----------



## thrillcat

Daniel Chaves said:


> I'm trying to figure out what RU/U shelf heights I will need and how I should best arrange everything. The rack is 40 inches tall and is a 21ru/u so here is my best guess/estimation on what size each of my hardware will need. Suggestions and corrections greatly welcomed as this is my first time owning an AV Rack. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh also anyone know where is the cheapest place to get blank face plates and made some custom face plates that surround the gear to fill up gaps?




I bought my vented blanks and a drawer for remotes from reverb.com. Can’t remember Store name but they were out of St Louis or KC. Great prices and nice quality. 

EDIT: the store was HiFiSoundConnection on reverb.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## azz7686

Daniel Chaves said:


> I'm trying to figure out what RU/U shelf heights I will need and how I should best arrange everything. The rack is 40 inches tall and is a 21ru/u so here is my best guess/estimation on what size each of my hardware will need. Suggestions and corrections greatly welcomed as this is my first time owning an AV Rack. Thanks.
> 
> Oh also anyone know where is the cheapest place to get blank face plates and made some custom face plates that surround the gear to fill up gaps?


 Each RU equals 1.75 inches from what I've learned, I have a rack very similar to yours. Is it on wheels?

Those shelves alone are well worth what you paid:eeksurprise:


----------



## azz7686

Here is my rack in progress!!!


----------



## Daniel Chaves

azz7686 said:


> Each RU equals 1.75 inches from what I've learned, I have a rack very similar to yours. Is it on wheels?
> 
> Those shelves alone are well worth what you paid:eeksurprise:


Oh yeah for sure a great deal, and yeah it has Middle Atlantic $98 rolling base... man I just cant believe the mark up that these companies have but then again I guess demand for such isnt exactly high enough to price these items lower. Yeah between the shelves, rack, and wheels it was a screaming deal that I just could not pass up.


----------



## bluer101

Daniel Chaves said:


> Oh yeah for sure a great deal, and yeah it has Middle Atlantic $98 rolling base... man I just cant believe the mark up that these companies have but then again I guess demand for such isnt exactly high enough to price these items lower. Yeah between the shelves, rack, and wheels it was a screaming deal that I just could not pass up.


That was a good deal. Just noticed those are not ventilated shelves though. Just be careful as they have solid bottoms and sides. So it will require front to back airflow.


----------



## Tedd

They could be given a series of drilled holes, to become ventilated shelves. A piece of peg board could be used as a drilling template. 

You also could paint everything after the fact, instead of touching up. I've had great success using rattle can hammered spray finishes, 
after cleaning up used racks with a cheapie Harbor Freight 4" angle grinder. That angle grinder has also been used to make additional
rack pieces, so there's lots of room for customization.


----------



## Daniel Chaves

bluer101 said:


> That was a good deal. Just noticed those are not ventilated shelves though. Just be careful as they have solid bottoms and sides. So it will require front to back airflow.


I will be using the (1) 4U for my Marrantz which will have active cooling, and (2) of the 3U for a power conditioner and Buttkickers Amp, the rest will be replaced with a couple 1U vented racks and 2U Oppo mounting bracket and all evenly spaced so it won't be too bad.




Tedd said:


> They could be given a series of drilled holes, to become ventilated shelves. A piece of peg board could be used as a drilling template.
> 
> You also could paint everything after the fact, instead of touching up. I've had great success using rattle can hammered spray finishes,
> after cleaning up used racks with a cheapie Harbor Freight 4" angle grinder. That angle grinder has also been used to make additional
> rack pieces, so there's lots of room for customization.


That's a great idea with the peg board, I'm going to do just that and I did pick up black hammer spray paint. 



Thank you everyone so far for your input, I really do appreciate it.


----------



## enricoclaudio

Not sure if mine qualifies as a rack but here it is!!


----------



## freezinghot

My updated pic, just waiting to finish room before I add the trim and paint.


----------



## Doug Brown

enricoclaudio said:


> Not sure if mine qualifies as a rack but here it is!!


What brand is your rack?


----------



## enricoclaudio

Doug Brown said:


> What brand is your rack?


Salamander Synergy.


----------



## thrillcat

enricoclaudio said:


> Not sure if mine qualifies as a rack but here it is!!




Technically I don’t think it qualifies but I’ll give you a pass because the Salamander stuff is SO FRIGGING CLASSY looking. I’ve always loved their look. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daniel Chaves

So let me know if there is any reason why I should not do this, but at the bottom of my rack there is a large square cute out which I assume is for cabling or ventilation or what nor, I picked up a 16x16inch steel pegboard that I plan to lay over that whole and then rivet in place. I then plan to place what is normally a free standing APC Battery backup on its side in that space and put a 1U plate at the bottom of the rack to make up the difference that it makes laying on its side, to get easy access to the power button on the front the 1u plate will be magnetic to the steel rails so I can easily pop it on and off and then place my vented 3u rack over that which will hold my Belkin Power Conditioner. There will be plenty of airflow but I was just wondering if server racks are designed in a way that the hole on the bottom is needed or if I will mess something else up?

Oh and has anyone thought about using automotive heat reflecting thermal tape on the underside of rack shelves to try and reduce heat transfer to the equipment above? I was thinking about giving this a try as like a test on one of my solid rack shelves.

Edit/Update: (08.21.18) I started drilling holes into my solid rack shelves with a pegboard as my template and a brand new metal bit... I must saying doing such with a hand drill not a press drill is sooo tiring and took a lot of effort, I was suppose to do 88 to 154 holes per shelf and I made it to 24 before I was just done lol... ^^;; yeah I will just save up and get vented shelves down the road... I also added a couple progress photos.

Edit/Update: (08.25.18) More progress photos on my AV Rack. Waiting for the color coded power cables to come in, this will save me on labeling so all that I do have to label will be the speaker wires.


----------



## Falcon2915

Not nearly finished this, but time was my enemy. 
It’s my first build! Please be kind











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daniel Chaves

Falcon2915 said:


> Not nearly finished this, but time was my enemy.
> It’s my first build! Please be kind
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you list the hardware, what is the application, what do you have left to do?


----------



## Daniel Chaves

Just waiting on one more HDMI cable and two yellow Cat6 network cables, then I can start wiring up the speakers. 😁


----------



## Falcon2915

Daniel Chaves said:


> Can you list the hardware, what is the application, what do you have left to do?




Sure,

Here is the following in/to be going in.

1x APC7920 switchable PDU
1x FURMAN M10-X PDU Surge Protector
1x Netgear Prosafe GS724TS
1x HDAnywhere 8x6+2 4K Video Matrix
1x Sky Q Silver
1x Sky Q Mini
2x Humax FreeSat DVR
1x 4K Bly-ray Player (to be selected)
1x ATV 4K
1x Dahua 8ch POE CCTV NVR
1x Cyberview KVM keyboard/monitor
1x Apple Time Capsule 2TB
1x Media HTPC
1x Yamaha 5.1 4K AVR

1x Monoprice 12Ch Multi-zone Amp
1x Airport Express
1x CC Audio
2x Sonos Connect

Doorbell via paging input using a Niles DBI-2 interface 

Separate Netgear GS724 in PP for room outlets.

And an APC 1500kVA UPS 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jconjason

Daniel Chaves said:


> Just waiting on one more HDMI cable and two yellow Cat6 network cables, then I can start wiring up the speakers. 😁


Would you mind sharing where you purchased those "bars" that run horizontally that you secured your wires to?


----------



## popalock

Falcon2915 said:


> Doorbell via paging input using a Niles DBI-2 interface
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How do you have this hooked up? Just a standard doorbell to the DBI-2 then directly to your MultiZone Amp? 

I'd love to hook something like this up using a Ring Doorbell or Nest Hello...


----------



## Falcon2915

popalock said:


> How do you have this hooked up? Just a standard doorbell to the DBI-2 then directly to your MultiZone Amp?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to hook something like this up using a Ring Doorbell or Nest Hello...




Pretty much. Just a standard doorbell, wired back with bell wire. Then into the Niles. It has 2 inputs for front and back door. From there I run Phono cables into the paging input on the amp, always by with a 3.5mm trigger cable to turn on and page all zones. 

I was also looking at a video doorbell, but couldn’t quite suss it for now, so I left a CAT6 at the front door too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

jconjason said:


> Would you mind sharing where you purchased those "bars" that run horizontally that you secured your wires to?


Just do a google search for lacing bars.


----------



## SMHarman

jconjason said:


> Would you mind sharing where you purchased those "bars" that run horizontally that you secured your wires to?


Horizontal Lacer Bars ("L" Bar) Bars LPB-1A (one bag of 10 bars) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J17OG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6fQIBb63NHNNZ


----------



## jconjason

SMHarman said:


> Horizontal Lacer Bars ("L" Bar) Bars LPB-1A (one bag of 10 bars) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J17OG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6fQIBb63NHNNZ


Thank you!


----------



## Daniel Chaves

I am now done with my AV Rack, now to get it over to its final location so I can start wiring up the speaker wires and make the final connections. 

Oh and I picked up a battery powered magnetic under the hood automotive work light that I can just stick anywhere in the AV rack when Im working on it. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif 

I am pretty happy with the result of my first time wiring up and doing some cable management in an AV rack, I will probably go back and put velcro cable ties and then go back and cut all the zip ties. I put my extra 1u faceplate on the back as a semi-storage place for it./forum/images/smilies/smile.gif 










If anyone is wondering why FOB is written on the buttkickers amp, it use to belong to the band Fallout Boys. The drummer used it for powering the buttkickers that give him feedback for his drums.


----------



## 900HP

I kept mine simple


----------



## feistyacorn

Question for the equipment rack pros. I'm new to racks and looking at the Middle Atlantic Sim 5. I currently have a 20" deep Parasound A51. With larger amps like this, will they fit in the standard 20" deep rack or do I need to look at the 26" deep model?


----------



## AlienWarlock

feistyacorn said:


> Question for the equipment rack pros. I'm new to racks and looking at the Middle Atlantic Sim 5. I currently have a 20" deep Parasound A51. With larger amps like this, will they fit in the standard 20" deep rack or do I need to look at the 26" deep model?



I have a 29U-26" Slim 5. It measures just under 26" from the outside of front rail to the outside of the back rail. So I would think if your equipment is 20" deep, the wires would stick out the back of a 20" rack.


----------



## Daniel Chaves

Added what I believe to be one of the best designed 4U Computer Chassis on the market, the CS350 made by SilverStone Tek. I am in the process of doing a full write up review and will be posting it soon on this forum.


----------



## argentum246

Hello Audio/rack-o-philes,
I also got a 27U rack to house my amp and receiver. It has 4 very noisy fans on the top and make enough noise to give real heli a challenge. They are very good in what they do but too noisy. Hence I was looking for a solution / device that can show me current temperature and expected(low) temperature and switch on the fans only when difference increases. Also shuts the fans down when temperature reached the expected level. I see some options in Ali express and amazon but not very clear in description. If any one of you have tried any thermostat switches let me know.

Thanks.


----------



## jconjason

argentum246 said:


> Hello Audio/rack-o-philes,
> I also got a 27U rack to house my amp and receiver. It has 4 very noisy fans on the top and make enough noise to give real heli a challenge. They are very good in what they do but too noisy. Hence I was looking for a solution / device that can show me current temperature and expected(low) temperature and switch on the fans only when difference increases. Also shuts the fans down when temperature reached the expected level. I see some options in Ali express and amazon but not very clear in description. If any one of you have tried any thermostat switches let me know.
> 
> Thanks.


I use this....

https://www.acinfinity.com/componen...ponent-cooling-blower-system-rear-exhaust-17/

They also have rackmount units..

https://www.acinfinity.com/rack-fans/


----------



## argentum246

jconjason said:


> I use this....
> 
> https://www.acinfinity.com/componen...ponent-cooling-blower-system-rear-exhaust-17/
> 
> They also have rackmount units..
> 
> https://www.acinfinity.com/rack-fans/


Thank You jconjason,
Issue here is I already have 4 fans in the rack connected to PDU. So now i need a thermostat switch type device between pdu and fans that can switch on / off fans when temperature goes high, same like the mechanism used in units in the links you sent me above.


----------



## towercontrol

*monitor?*

Hey, what monitor and mount is that you are using!!! I have to know. Thanks! 



bluer101 said:


> I can finally post in this thread.  Entrance to our theater is basically done along with the rack just outside the entrance. With it in the hallway it’s harder to get a full photo seeing it’s tall (45u). So I took a photo of the entrance and few of the rack from top to bottom.


----------



## bluer101

towercontrol said:


> Hey, what monitor and mount is that you are using!!! I have to know. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> bluer101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can finally post in this thread.  Entrance to our theater is basically done along with the rack just outside the entrance. With it in the hallway it’s harder to get a full photo seeing it’s tall (45u). So I took a photo of the entrance and few of the rack from top to bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mount is this.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D1GG0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Monitor is this. No longer made, but newer model is out. I think it’s got a bump out logo on the newer model so I don’t know it it will work.
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-19-class-18-5-diag--led-720p-hdtv/9215028.p?skuId=9215028
> 
> Faceplate is from a Denon AVR5805. I bought it off eBay cheap. The measurements worked perfect.
Click to expand...


----------



## towercontrol

bluer101 said:


> towercontrol said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, what monitor and mount is that you are using!!! I have to know. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The mount is this.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D1GG0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Monitor is this. No longer made, but newer model is out. I think it’s got a bump out logo on the newer model so I don’t know it it will work.
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-19-class-18-5-diag--led-720p-hdtv/9215028.p?skuId=9215028
> 
> Faceplate is from a Denon AVR5805. I bought it off eBay cheap. The measurements worked perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> hey, thanks for the reply. You will have to give me just a model number of the monitor. As the link wont work 100% for me as I'm in Canada. it doesn't take me to the product. But For me I'm using an ACER 19" monitor. Its been working well. But can't do 1080i or 1080p. So its only on half the time. Plus it doesnt look near as good as yours.
Click to expand...


----------



## Sir Meili

towercontrol said:


> bluer101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hey, thanks for the reply. You will have to give me just a model number of the monitor. As the link wont work 100% for me as I'm in Canada. it doesn't take me to the product. But For me I'm using an ACER 19" monitor. Its been working well. But can't do 1080i or 1080p. So its only on half the time. Plus it doesnt look near as good as yours.
> 
> 
> 
> I clicked the link and it said the model number was NS-19D220NA16-A
Click to expand...


----------



## bluer101

towercontrol said:


> bluer101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hey, thanks for the reply. You will have to give me just a model number of the monitor. As the link wont work 100% for me as I'm in Canada. it doesn't take me to the product. But For me I'm using an ACER 19" monitor. Its been working well. But can't do 1080i or 1080p. So its only on half the time. Plus it doesnt look near as good as yours.
> 
> 
> 
> The monitor is 720p but it will accept 1080p signal.
> 
> Here is some newer photos.
Click to expand...


----------



## KevinH

Hi all. Here is my rack. The only thing that get's hot is the Marantz 8802A. I have 1U space between it and the amp above. Which AC Infinity device would be best here? T5 or T6? Any benefit to exhaust the front or back? Thanks much for any advice.


----------



## jconjason

KevinH said:


> Hi all. Here is my rack. The only thing that get's hot is the Marantz 8802A. I have 1U space between it and the amp above. Which AC Infinity device would be best here? T5 or T6? Any benefit to exhaust the front or back? Thanks much for any advice.


Do you have any space or clearance in the back? If not you'll want to get front exhaust.


----------



## towercontrol

bluer101 said:


> towercontrol said:
> 
> 
> 
> The monitor is 720p but it will accept 1080p signal.
> 
> Here is some newer photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey that worked. Thanks. Great pics. I like what you did with the fan controllers too! Its a awesome set up all in all! jealous.
Click to expand...


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## hd0823

Still adding to it. I need to get the rack fans in.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## towercontrol

oh, you went to Marantz, and took out the control 4 and amp.


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## KevinH

jconjason said:


> Do you have any space or clearance in the back? If not you'll want to get front exhaust.


I likely will not put the back door on so yes I'd have some room.......so I don't know if it would matter if I did front or back exhaust? The rack has built in fans at top which will pull out some hot air.


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## myke02

My garage rack. Has anyone used a server rack as a home theater rack. What's the difference?


----------



## wkearney99

myke02 said:


> My garage rack. Has anyone used a server rack as a home theater rack. What's the difference?


Fit and finish, side panels, other features, square holes vs threaded, they're all racks... assuming 19" wide. There are some 23" wide racks used for carrier telco installs, but they're a lot less common. Always good to check the width before buying.... (anyone need a 23" shelf?)

If the rack has the features you want I suppose it doesn't really matter if it's specifically targeted toward one market or another. I'd think it'd matter more if you were trying to use an AV rack for server purposes where the servers require a particular set of rack features (for mounting, typically).


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## Deejay Freddy

I had an extra 22 inch monitor lying around and decided to rack it.


----------



## AlienWarlock

In the theater: I found a used Middle Atlantic Slim 5-29 rack that would work perfectly for what I wanted to do. I framed the opening just large enough for it to fit and then installed it so it would be flush with the trim boards. 











From the back:























Upstairs: It was just a fairly plain cabinet with one single shelf behind the doors and the components haphazardly stacked inside. There was no before picture taken . I used a set of Middle Atlantic BRK 12 rack rails cut down to just over 11U tall to create a rack inside the cabinet.














The rails were attached to 1/2" plywood strips (6" wide) that were edge banded and stained to match the cabinet and then pocket screwed to the top and bottom of the cabinet. I used a couple 1U blank panels during installation to keep the 19" spacing consistent. The end result was 10U of usable rack space inside the cabinet:


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## JamesVG81

Just picked this up at an Arcade action of all places. Got it for a 100 bucks. Came with a bunch of gear in it. Even a nice 5.1 integra receiver. It’s going in that closet , I’m cutting a hole in the wall and framing it out. My old rack from my old house was to wide to fit so this worked out well. Side note any one near King ,NC I have a free rack in my garage that needs a home.


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## Tedd

wkearney99 said:


> Fit and finish, side panels, other features, square holes vs threaded, they're all racks... assuming 19" wide. There are some 23" wide racks used for carrier telco installs, but they're a lot less common. Always good to check the width before buying.... (anyone need a 23" shelf?)
> 
> If the rack has the features you want I suppose it doesn't really matter if it's specifically targeted toward one market or another. I'd think it'd matter more if you were trying to use an AV rack for server purposes where the servers require a particular set of rack features (for mounting, typically).


One could shim down a 23" rack, if it has the sliding side rails. A couple of pieces of stained wood between the rails and the slide, would get you the proper spacing. Or one could simply section such as a rack vertically, with a $10 Harbor Freight 4" angle grinder. 
(I've seen two of these racks free, for simply picking them up, and hauling them away.)


----------



## wkearney99

Tedd said:


> One could shim down a 23" rack, if it has the sliding side rails. A couple of pieces of stained wood between the rails and the slide, would get you the proper spacing. Or one could simply section such as a rack vertically, with a $10 Harbor Freight 4" angle grinder.
> (I've seen two of these racks free, for simply picking them up, and hauling them away.)


"Could" doesn't mean should. Why take a durable scheme like metal rails with metal shelves and weaken it considerably with wood spacing? 

Free, only to be stuck with time spent on a hack job? Doesn't seem very sensible. I'm all for bargains, but that's a bit much.


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## Tedd

It often amazes me just how cheap these racks sell for on the used market. 

I was looking for wheels for my WRK, and came across this actively cooled Middle Atlantic credenza, at $300 CDN. Didn't need all the shelves so I flipped out my WRK with some of those shelves, set up a trade set up for some shelves for bits I need, and added some stuff to my Slim5. The rack also cam with a baggy of parts and screws, and a set of feet for my Slim5. The WRK was flipped out fast, for a $130 CDN return. 

Future plan are to build new doors, using the doors as templates, and take the rack full width of the media room. 
I like the look of the media center in the last picture and plan to host dual subs, in panels added to the end of the rack. The idea being to create a statement piece of furniture, semi recessed into a wall.


----------



## Tedd

wkearney99 said:


> "Could" doesn't mean should. Why take a durable scheme like metal rails with metal shelves and weaken it considerably with wood spacing?
> 
> Free, only to be stuck with time spent on a hack job? Doesn't seem very sensible. I'm all for bargains, but that's a bit much.


Where does it say it would look hack? I don't preach hack, I preach dollar savvy while developing some simple skills that often can be taken forward. One needn't use soft wood, so one 
can do substantial and still do it rather affordably. I'd get something a bit more unique and enjoy a couple of hours outside, rather then spend time at work to pay for it all. It's maybe not 
for everyone, but it might be for some. 

One could also use square tube channel steel to space the rails, if so desired. It's just steel and it paints up really well.


----------



## wkearney99

Tedd said:


> Where does it say it would look hack? I don't preach hack, I preach dollar savvy while developing some simple skills that often can be taken forward. One needn't use soft wood, so one
> can do substantial and still do it rather affordably. I'd get something a bit more unique and enjoy a couple of hours outside, rather then spend time at work to pay for it all. It's maybe not
> for everyone, but it might be for some.


Penny wise, pound foolish. 

Anything is possible, I suppose. Many folks put no value on their time making all kinds of things seem 'affordable'. 

It's you that implied how it'd look, not me. 

My point was metal racking and shelving provides a far superior setup than grafting wood in-between, from a mechanical standpoint. Some of us have dealt with heavy amps, power conditioning or other gear that benefits/needs secure mounting. That was my point about avoiding surprises when shopping for rack bargains. Not some misplaced sense of economy or ramblings about skills.


----------



## Tedd

I agree people don't put more emphasis on their time. But often that little project is someone's idea of leisurely downtime. It might not be "work". Or maybe it's simply a budget 
stretching way to get where they'd like to end up at. Save here, to have so spend more elsewhere. 

And I agree about avoiding a nasty surprise when rack shopping, but I also would think about what it might take to make something substantial, free or cheap, 
to make it work. Then decide if the work is worth the time and energy. 

I also wouldn't hesitate to put my eighty pound 2200 MKII in such a rack either. It actually has been mounted in a sectioned rack years ago.


----------



## Ediddy

Deejay Freddy said:


> I had an extra 22 inch monitor lying around and decided to rack it.




What are the primary functions of the monitor in the rack? I’m asking because I’m at the point I need a rack and I’ve just started looking into them. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

Ediddy said:


> What are the primary functions of the monitor in the rack? I’m asking because I’m at the point I need a rack and I’ve just started looking into them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


For me my rack is outside the theater so it helps when doing setup or calibrations. Plus whatever is going on in the theater can be viewed outside in the rack.


----------



## hd0823

Just added mine in today. Scored one off Ebay for 25 dollars.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## James92TSi

myke02 said:


> Has anyone used a server rack as a home theater rack. What's the difference?


Mostly mounting depth - 4-post IT racks are much deeper than typically needed for AV equipment. That means a bigger footprint.

Mine is an old beige Compaq 4-post cabinet that I got for free - took off everything that could be unbolted and sprayed it all black. There were two sets of holes for the front and rear rack rails, so when I put it back together, I used the innermost holes and flipped the rails to give me the shortest possible depth at 26". This matched the Kendall-Howard 4-post fixed rack shelves I bought for heavier gear. For lighter gear, any misc 2-post cantilevered shelf is fine. In the back, moving the rails gave me much easier access to the vertical cabling channels built into the rack (left side of this pic).










This is super old - back when I first racked everything in my last theater. The AVR (70lbs VSX-49TX) and the disc changer stack are on 4-post shelves. The Crown amps have rear brackets added, so they're 4-post mounted too. Side panels are off in this pic.










Here it is after the gear was re-racked, and pushed into its closet in the new theater. Since this pic was taken, my QNAP NAS is now installed in the 3U slot above the UPS units, and the AVR has changed from VSX-49TX to SC-LX901.










If you're a planner... it's a little easier to move gear around in Excel than to guess and check with the real thing...


----------



## Tedd

These racks can be super flexible in the hands of a DIY'er. 

I've always liked this nicely executed mix of wood and metal rack. But most of my racks over the years have been about butting the rack up against drywall, 
and simply exposing the area I wanted exposed, and using drywall J channel to create a clean edge. Pretty cheap to do, with a nice enough built in look.


----------



## bluer101

Tedd said:


> These racks can be super flexible in the hands of a DIY'er.
> 
> I've always liked this nicely executed mix of wood and metal rack. But most of my racks over the years have been about butting the rack up against drywall,
> and simply exposing the area I wanted exposed, and using drywall J channel to create a clean edge. Pretty cheap to do, with a nice enough built in look.


Is that yours Tedd? 

Yes. The mix of woodwork and metal gives it a clean classy look.


----------



## Tedd

Not mine, but it's one that I really like the mixed looks of that. 

My rack is a Slim5, raised but cut down to 22U. It is pretty much the polar opposite of that rack. $5 worth of drywall J channel, to trim out the edge of the drywall 
opening for the rack. It is as minimalistic, and as cheap, as I could figure out. The rack is right outside the theater door, and basically makes something useful out of 
a 6' deep but 24" wide space, that steps down to down to 18" wide about 26" back of the drywall.


----------



## NickTheGreat

bluer101 said:


> For me my rack is outside the theater so it helps when doing setup or calibrations. Plus whatever is going on in the theater can be viewed outside in the rack.


How did you 'rack' the monitor? I mounted a single arm mount to the side of my rack, but I really like how yours looks inside.


----------



## bluer101

NickTheGreat said:


> How did you 'rack' the monitor? I mounted a single arm mount to the side of my rack, but I really like how yours looks inside.


I used this rack mount for the tv. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D1GG0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then found a custom middle Atlantic faceplate for a Denon 5805 on eBay which fit the tv pretty good.


----------



## Ediddy

htdhvy said:


> My rack (installed as part of my recent theater build)...
> 
> From top to bottom
> 
> 2x patch panels
> HP 5130-48G-POE+ - 4SFP+ (core switch)
> Netgear XS728T (10GbE switch)
> Netgear SRX5308 (router)
> Qnap TS-1263U-RP (4k HDR film server)
> Aurender N100H (audio source)
> Nvidia Shield (media player)
> PlayStation 4 Pro
> Xbox One X
> Middle Atlantic Laptop Drawer
> Control4 EA5 (control brain)
> Control4 C4-16AMP3-B (8 zone amplifier)
> Datasat RS20i (theater processor)
> Datasat RA7300 (7 channel amplifier)
> Vent
> Mark Levinson No 532 (2 channel amplifier)
> Vent
> Furman IT-Reference 20i (line conditioner)
> APC SMT1500RM2UC (UPS)
> 
> Speakers, projector, etc... are in my signature. Planning on starting a thread for my build.
> 
> View attachment 2413356
> 
> View attachment 2413358
> 
> View attachment 2413360
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




This rack is awesome is this a 42U? Is it part of the RCS series 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Carboraine

Ediddy said:


> This rack is awesome is this a 42U? Is it part of the RCS series
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thank you and yes and yes. It’s the Middle Atlantic RCS4224. I have since added a second one and more equipment. Almost “done” with this iteration of my theater (although it’s constantly evolving...)


----------



## Ediddy

htdhvy said:


> Thank you and yes and yes. It’s the Middle Atlantic RCS4224. I have since added a second one and more equipment. Almost “done” with this iteration of my theater (although it’s constantly evolving...)
> 
> Attaching some pics with the second rack in and some equipment moved around.
> 
> View attachment 2589250
> View attachment 2589252
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




I’m thinking strongly about getting the 35u. What lights are you using in the rack? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## hd0823

Thank you and yes and yes. It’s the Middle Atlantic RCS4224. I have since added a second one and more equipment. Almost “done” with this iteration of my theater (although it’s constantly evolving...)

Attaching some pics with the second rack in and some equipment moved around.

View attachment 2589250
View attachment 2589252




Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Tedd

While this isn't exactly a rack, it does share history with me cleaning up my first metal rack. 

This is a 1930 era art deco casting, that came with many flaws. I could have filled the flaws except there's a pretty good chance that is lead based paint, so I wasn't about to sand it, grind it, or 
disturb the paint in any way. This is it at one coat of primer and two coats of hammered. You can see that severe bit of rash on the upper surface has begun to fill in. Another coat, maybe 2, 
and I expect the flaws will have disappeared entirely.

My past success with refinishing a rack and some commercial theater seats years ago, is being revived, as a featured finish for the next home theater. Since I have flipped a few racks over the 
years, I also have a motley collection of face plates, that were set aside. I expect to try to salvage some of them and see if a wood "sandwich" and a simple wood frame can establish a perfect 
face plate opening. A router and bearing guide would then be used, to create the new opening. Then rattle can hammered paint gets put to work. One rather nice plus of flipping a few racks 
over the years, and retiring some upgraded gear to the credenza, is the credenza is all anodized plates. 

My preowned Slim5 for the theater has already been cut down in height, and if I can salvage a few face plates, with new openings, my motley collection of mixed face plate finishes, with 
see a unifying coat of hammered paint. The Slim5 while in near mint shape, might also see it's front rails and exposed edges of the top and bottom sprayed out.


----------



## burton14e7

Finished my rack, at least until I upgrade components in the future. Interestingly enough the two Ace Infinity fans are keeping the rack cooler than the air in the room on their lowest setting. The 1u shelf holds the Nvidia Shield. I don't think anybody makes a custom faceplate for that like the Xbox.

I don't know why the picture uploaded sideways, the original isn't rotated like that.


----------



## Carboraine

Ediddy said:


> I’m thinking strongly about getting the 35u. What lights are you using in the rack?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I ran some LIFX strips that I have programmed to work with my Control4 setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Ediddy

Did some work to figure out if my equipment would work with the RSC 3524 and it does! I’ll even have some space to grow. 

Question the rack will be at least 20 feet from my seating will the DC fans that come with the rack make too much noise? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## juanchibiris

Finish my rack until later this year when I upgrade my receiver to Monoprice HTP-1 or Emotiva RMC-1









Enviado desde mi SM-N9600 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## myke02

James92TSi said:


> Mostly mounting depth - 4-post IT racks are much deeper than typically needed for AV equipment. That means a bigger footprint.
> 
> Mine is an old beige Compaq 4-post cabinet that I got for free - took off everything that could be unbolted and sprayed it all black. There were two sets of holes for the front and rear rack rails, so when I put it back together, I used the innermost holes and flipped the rails to give me the shortest possible depth at 26". This matched the Kendall-Howard 4-post fixed rack shelves I bought for heavier gear. For lighter gear, any misc 2-post cantilevered shelf is fine. In the back, moving the rails gave me much easier access to the vertical cabling channels built into the rack (left side of this pic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is super old - back when I first racked everything in my last theater. The AVR (70lbs VSX-49TX) and the disc changer stack are on 4-post shelves. The Crown amps have rear brackets added, so they're 4-post mounted too. Side panels are off in this pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is after the gear was re-racked, and pushed into its closet in the new theater. Since this pic was taken, my QNAP NAS is now installed in the 3U slot above the UPS units, and the AVR has changed from VSX-49TX to SC-LX901.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're a planner... it's a little easier to move gear around in Excel than to guess and check with the real thing...


Thanks for the reply. Looks great!


----------



## hd0823

juanchibiris said:


> Finish my rack until later this year when I upgrade my receiver to Monoprice HTP-1 or Emotiva RMC-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-N9600 mediante Tapatalk


Nice the new monoprice HTP-1 looks very nice.im debating on it for when I upgrade 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## burton14e7

juanchibiris said:


> Finish my rack until later this year when I upgrade my receiver to Monoprice HTP-1 or Emotiva RMC-1
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-N9600 mediante Tapatalk


Looks like we have the same HTPC case. I love how many hard drives it holds. It's staved me off from having to buy a NAS for years.


----------



## juanchibiris

burton14e7 said:


> Looks like we have the same HTPC case. I love how many hard drives it holds. It's staved me off from having to buy a NAS for years.


A lot cheaper than buy all those blu rays 

Enviado desde mi SM-N9600 mediante Tapatalk


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## Ediddy

New rack up and running


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## Ediddy

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Tedd

I often wonder if one it's possible to extend WiFi antenna with short shielded cables to allow one to host the networking gear inside the rack? 

Something like the space behind a rack mounted monitor, could host a fair amount gear, by using short shelves attached to the rear rails.


----------



## Carboraine

Ediddy said:


> New rack up and running




Nice choice! I really like mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## James92TSi

Tedd said:


> I often wonder if one it's possible to extend WiFi antenna with short shielded cables to allow one to host the networking gear inside the rack?


Possible yes with the right type of cable; might not the best use of time/effort to experiment with residential grade equipment, when Ubiquiti has so many inexpensive (for what you get) access points and other networking gear.


----------



## Tedd

Thank you James92TSi. That should be perfect for my need.


----------



## Ediddy

htdhvy said:


> I ran some LIFX strips that I have programmed to work with my Control4 setup.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




How did you run your light strips? Meaning vertical on an inside wall? I’m a little slow so the more detail the better. It’s also said a picture is worth a 1,000 posts or something like that lol 


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## kaotikr1

Middle Atlantic RCS. Picture taken with the door open.


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## Ediddy

kaotikr1 said:


> Middle Atlantic RCS. Picture taken with the door open.




Very nice and thanks for taking the time to show me 


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## jimmyk36

Finally finished framing mine


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## Ediddy

Does everyone who has the internal fans that come with the MA racks run their fans all day? Is there a cut of switch or can I buy something to switch it on and off. I ask become I really only watch movies on the weekends and the fans running 24 hours a day 


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## vld

Ediddy said:


> Does everyone who has the internal fans that come with the MA racks run their fans all day?


You may be able to find one of Middle Atlantic's Thermal Fan Controllers on eBay for a respectable price. Put the thermal probe on the piece of equipment that runs hotter.


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## Ediddy

vld said:


> You may be able to find one of Middle Atlantic's Thermal Fan Controllers on eBay for a respectable price. Put the thermal probe on the piece of equipment that runs hotter.




I have the two top mounted fans that came with the mount. This censor will cut the fans off when the temperature of my amps are lower? Sorry this is all new to me. 


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## jconjason

Ediddy said:


> Does everyone who has the internal fans that come with the MA racks run their fans all day? Is there a cut of switch or can I buy something to switch it on and off. I ask become I really only watch movies on the weekends and the fans running 24 hours a day
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





Ediddy said:


> I have the two top mounted fans that came with the mount. This censor will cut the fans off when the temperature of my amps are lower? Sorry this is all new to me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You might benefit from a product like this...

https://www.acinfinity.com/componen...ponent-cooling-blower-system-rear-exhaust-17/


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## vld

Ediddy said:


> I have the two top mounted fans that came with the mount. This censor will cut the fans off when the temperature of my amps are lower? Sorry this is all new to me.


If you look at the instruction sheet near the bottom of the first page; 
https://cfgbridge.middleatlantic.com/api/Document/InstructionSheets/I-00545.PDF


*Temperature Setting: (FIGURE A)
A 3 position pluggable jumper (JP1) (on circuit
board) is provided to shift the temperature
control range.
SLOW FULL SPEED
Position #1 90˚F 100˚F
Position #3 85˚F 95˚F (factory set)
Position #5 80˚F 90˚F*

This leads me to believe that that the controller will only switch between slow and high speed, and not turn completely off.

If you prefer simple on/off, one of these will work;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMA6EAM/


----------



## thrillcat

vld said:


> If you look at the instruction sheet near the bottom of the first page;
> 
> https://cfgbridge.middleatlantic.com/api/Document/InstructionSheets/I-00545.PDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Temperature Setting: (FIGURE A)
> 
> A 3 position pluggable jumper (JP1) (on circuit
> 
> board) is provided to shift the temperature
> 
> control range.
> 
> SLOW FULL SPEED
> 
> Position #1 90˚F 100˚F
> 
> Position #3 85˚F 95˚F (factory set)
> 
> Position #5 80˚F 90˚F*
> 
> 
> 
> This leads me to believe that that the controller will only switch between slow and high speed, and not turn completely off.
> 
> 
> 
> If you prefer simple on/off, one of these will work;
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMA6EAM/




Actually I would read that as it’s normally off, but will turn on Slow at tempA and Full Speed at tempB. 


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## vld

At the top of the second page, it does show the setting for ON/OFF using the temperature probe, my mistake for not reading the instruction sheet further. 

Additionally, if your fans have the bullet connectors and come with a power adapter, (like my RCS cabinet), I'm not sure this controller will work, but the one that I linked to on Amazon will control almost anything with a 110V plug.


----------



## tamilsinma

wkearney99 said:


> Fit and finish, side panels, other features, square holes vs threaded, they're all racks... assuming 19" wide. There are some 23" wide racks used for carrier telco installs, but they're a lot less common. Always good to check the width before buying.... (anyone need a 23" shelf?)
> 
> 
> 
> If the rack has the features you want I suppose it doesn't really matter if it's specifically targeted toward one market or another. I'd think it'd matter more if you were trying to use an AV rack for server purposes where the servers require a particular set of rack features (for mounting, typically).




Hi, I recently got a server rack which I wanted to use for AV. Are you offering the 23” shelves?


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## dhendriksen

Sold my house and so I’m splitting my rack in to 2 racks and adding some stuff. It’s been tricky separating everything out but still keeping everything working together until we’re out of here. I’ve got that accomplished, and just now adding in the new equipment which will be used at the new house. Still have a couple of things to add, but I’m liking the placement of everything. My plan is to make all the interconnects and everything I can here while I’m prepping to move, then just take the rack over and connect the cables coming from the house to the rack. 











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## crg28

Have a 33U Rack that I'm putting in the closet with a hole to the hallway to see the rack. Do any of you leave the wheels under the rack in this scenario? Or is it custom practice to remove it ?

I'm planning on framing it too like most of you have done here. With the wheels on, the rack starts 4 inches from the floor, just enough to build a baseboard and trim. If I remove the wheels, I will have to build a little platform. I'm afraid I might have to move the rack later on, that is why I was wondering if I should keep the wheels on?


----------



## James92TSi

crg28 said:


> Have a 33U Rack that I'm putting in the closet with a hole to the hallway to see the rack. Do any of you leave the wheels under the rack in this scenario? Or is it custom practice to remove it ?
> 
> I'm planning on framing it too like most of you have done here. With the wheels on, the rack starts 4 inches from the floor, just enough to build a baseboard and trim. If I remove the wheels, I will have to build a little platform. I'm afraid I might have to move the rack later on, that is why I was wondering if I should keep the wheels on?


I see no harm in keeping the wheels on. Most racks with wheels also have threaded leveling feet, much like a fridge, which can be extended into the floor when the unit is in proper position to avoid accidentally moving it.


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## AVSynthesis

bpassman said:


> Just upgraded from a MA Slim5-37 to a RCS-4224. Still working on rack, but most of the gear is installed and I'm working on cabling and trim/framing around it.


I just received this same rack (RCS-4224) from Middle Atlantic. Would you be kind enough to tell me how you decided on the placement of your components into the rack shelves (amps, power, media devices, receivers etc...) and which logic did you follow?
P.S. is that an Emotiva multi-zone amp by the way?


----------



## Nillaz

I know this thread doesn't have a lot of traffic anymore, but I've been lurking here for a long time and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their pics and helpful tips. The info here has been absolutely invaluable while researching and setting up my first rack.


This is definitely a work in progress and it's been super slow going as I've been sick as a dog for the last week, but things are finally starting to come together. The last of the pieces I need should be arriving today and some adjustments still need to happen, but it was nice to have a functional system again last night.


I hope everyone has a happy New Year, and once again thanks again to everyone you guys are awesome!


----------



## Andy Summers

My rack systems


----------



## TheAstronaut

These are all so great! Does anyone know of any good resources I can use for keeping my cabling neat?


----------



## Tedd

Middle Atlantic's website has a lot of information on wire management. 

Google and even Google Images Images also might also be a gateway to even more ideas and products.


----------



## thrillcat

TheAstronaut said:


> These are all so great! Does anyone know of any good resources I can use for keeping my cabling neat?



•AC down one side, tethered together.
•HDMI down the other side, tethered together.
•Speaker cable out the center, tethered together.


Horizontal Lacer Bars ("L" Bar) Bars LPB-1A (one bag of 10 bars)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J17OG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RMleEbPTWZRT1

BALABALA 50pcs 6 Inch Multi-Purpose Reusable Hook and Loop Cable Ties Fastening Straps Tie downs - 5 Color

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLKNJ8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zKleEb88Z7YP7


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## BdoUK

Nillaz said:


> I know this thread doesn't have a lot of traffic anymore, but I've been lurking here for a long time and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their pics and helpful tips. The info here has been absolutely invaluable while researching and setting up my first rack.
> 
> 
> This is definitely a work in progress and it's been super slow going as I've been sick as a dog for the last week, but things are finally starting to come together. The last of the pieces I need should be arriving today and some adjustments still need to happen, but it was nice to have a functional system again last night.
> 
> 
> I hope everyone has a happy New Year, and once again thanks again to everyone you guys are awesome!


How do you like the Sanus rack? I'm leaning toward getting the 36U for my theater build that's currently in progress.


----------



## Nillaz

BdoUK said:


> How do you like the Sanus rack? I'm leaning toward getting the 36U for my theater build that's currently in progress.



The one I got is also the 36U unit. I'm extremely pleased but I have a few minor gripes...though most of my gripes are easily addressed by throwing a couple extra bucks at it.



First and foremost I would say that you get quite a lot for the money. It came with 8 sturdy rack shelves and plenty of blanking panels, though they are all 1U and 2U and I wish they included a 3U or maybe even a 4U shelf in the mix. A bigger complaint I have is that the shelves are only vented on the back half, which means that if you have any shallow devices like my 4K bluray player the adjustable backstops for your devices are worthless since you can't actually butt them up against the device to hold it in place. I have yet to come up with a satisfactory solution other than to solely rely on the included velcro straps but I'll figure out something in the next day or two.



Aesthetically the overall exterior finish is decent but the paintjob they did on the blanking panels is a little subpar in my mind. If I saw this on a car I would describe it as the "orange peel" effect. I'll be replacing those blanking panels with ones from AC Infinity which have a much nicer anodized brushed finish (much closer in appearance to panels I've seen from Middle Atlantic) and will be a perfect match for my fan controller and accessories drawer. I may pick up a couple extras so that I can fashion a couple custom faceplates to fill some of the gaps around my smaller gear. That's gonna run me about another $75 - $100, and I also replaced the rack screws with AC Infinity screws (which are carbon steel and the finish doesn't scratch off of nearly as easily as the stock ones) and that ran me another $25. If fairness though none of this is completely terrible unless you're OCD about things like that (which I am) and you probably wouldn't even notice unless you were specifically looking for it. 



Lastly I'm not satisfied with the amount of play in the door. When resting in the closed position and you push on it you can still freely move 1/4 - 1/3". If this can be adjusted I haven't figured out how to do it, but I was able to solve it with a couple adhesive rubber domes I had laying around that I used to shim inside of the door frame. Easy peasy, and as an added bonus this now also means the door can't slam into the frame when closing so it's a win-win.


On the plus side the casters roll pretty freely even when fully loaded, but not so easily that a small nudge is going to send the thing rolling across the room if you don't have the leveling feet in place yet. As far as I'm concerned this is just the right amount of friction and manhandling the rack is painless.



All the panels pop on and off easily and you have plenty of easy access to the entire interior of the rack with no sharp edges that I could potentially cut myself on. It made hook ups and wire management a breeze and I greatly appreciated this. I like that it has several access ports on both the top and bottom so you have plenty of options for routing wires out of the rack. Also, coming fully assembled was great, though one side panel was dented in shipping. To their credit Sanus addressed this with a painless phone call and shipped it out immediately with no fuss. My experience is that customer service with most companies is pretty frustrating and it was fantastic not having to jump through any hoops whatsoever. 



Reading back through this it seems to me that I'm damning it with faint praise, but nothing can actually be further from the truth. If these ran at MA pricepoints I'd probably be pissed, but given that it cost less than $1000 I really am quite satisfied. After I address a few odds and ends I'll have zero regrets and would buy it again in a heartbeat. Sorry if I've rambled here but I hope my insight helps a bit.


----------



## kevin g.

Nillaz said:


> The one I got is also the 36U unit. I'm extremely pleased but I have a few minor gripes...though most of my gripes are easily addressed by throwing a couple extra bucks at it.
> 
> 
> 
> First and foremost I would say that you get quite a lot for the money. It came with 8 sturdy rack shelves and plenty of blanking panels, though they are all 1U and 2U and I wish they included a 3U or maybe even a 4U shelf in the mix. A bigger complaint I have is that the shelves are only vented on the back half, which means that if you have any shallow devices like my 4K bluray player the adjustable backstops for your devices are worthless since you can't actually butt them up against the device to hold it in place. I have yet to come up with a satisfactory solution other than to solely rely on the included velcro straps but I'll figure out something in the next day or two.
> 
> 
> 
> Aesthetically the overall exterior finish is decent but the paintjob they did on the blanking panels is a little subpar in my mind. If I saw this on a car I would describe it as the "orange peel" effect. I'll be replacing those blanking panels with ones from AC Infinity which have a much nicer anodized brushed finish (much closer in appearance to panels I've seen from Middle Atlantic) and will be a perfect match for my fan controller and accessories drawer. I may pick up a couple extras so that I can fashion a couple custom faceplates to fill some of the gaps around my smaller gear. That's gonna run me about another $75 - $100, and I also replaced the rack screws with AC Infinity screws (which are carbon steel and the finish doesn't scratch off of nearly as easily as the stock ones) and that ran me another $25. If fairness though none of this is completely terrible unless you're OCD about things like that (which I am) and you probably wouldn't even notice unless you were specifically looking for it.



And this is the sticking point for me. I love this look, and am currently looking at a Craigslist Middle Atlantic 42u for sale that I can pick up for a good price...but has no shelves or accessories. I have shopped the spacers/blanks and shelves for the last several days, and found ridiculous pricing. Even used on eBay is frustrating. If you find _*a shelf*_, or a lot of 2 or 3 _*with a decent price*_ per shelf...they are outrageously whacking you for shipping. So much that I have second guessed even purchasing the rack itself. 



Is there a source for bulk shelving or blanks with good pricing? If it has been discussed, I missed it, sorry... Even if I could get an abs plastic blank for now in various sizes, and upgrade later.


----------



## thrillcat

kevin g. said:


> And this is the sticking point for me. I love this look, and am currently looking at a Craigslist Middle Atlantic 42u for sale that I can pick up for a good price...but has no shelves or accessories. I have shopped the spacers/blanks and shelves for the last several days, and found ridiculous pricing. Even used on eBay is frustrating. If you find _*a shelf*_, or a lot of 2 or 3 _*with a decent price*_ per shelf...they are outrageously whacking you for shipping. So much that I have second guessed even purchasing the rack itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a source for bulk shelving or blanks with good pricing? If it has been discussed, I missed it, sorry... Even if I could get an abs plastic blank for now in various sizes, and upgrade later.




I’ve found great prices on new shelves, blanks and drawers on www.reverb.com. 


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## Nillaz

kevin g. said:


> And this is the sticking point for me. I love this look, and am currently looking at a Craigslist Middle Atlantic 42u for sale that I can pick up for a good price...but has no shelves or accessories. I have shopped the spacers/blanks and shelves for the last several days, and found ridiculous pricing. Even used on eBay is frustrating. If you find _*a shelf*_, or a lot of 2 or 3 _*with a decent price*_ per shelf...they are outrageously whacking you for shipping. So much that I have second guessed even purchasing the rack itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a source for bulk shelving or blanks with good pricing? If it has been discussed, I missed it, sorry... Even if I could get an abs plastic blank for now in various sizes, and upgrade later.



Per AVS policy I don't want to get too deep in the weeds on pricing, but by and large I am relying on Amazon (I'm a prime member so shipping is mostly irrelevant for me). If there is a decent bulk buying option at this point I haven't come across it yet.


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## kevin g.

Nillaz said:


> Per AVS policy I don't want to get too deep in the weeds on pricing, but by and large I am relying on Amazon (I'm a prime member so shipping is mostly irrelevant for me). If there is a decent bulk buying option at this point I haven't come across it yet.





thrillcat said:


> I’ve found great prices on new shelves, blanks and drawers on www.reverb.com.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks guys, but both places have similar pricing (I have also been a Prime member for 10+ years) ... and if you need all the shelving (10 or more), and blanks...it could get close to 500 bucks... And, as I said...with eBay, you might find a shelf or two for 15 or 20...but they want 48 bucks shipping. It's very frustrating


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## thrillcat

kevin g. said:


> Thanks guys, but both places have similar pricing (I have also been a Prime member for 10+ years) ... and if you need all the shelving (10 or more), and blanks...it could get close to 500 bucks... And, as I said...with eBay, you might find a shelf or two for 15 or 20...but they want 48 bucks shipping. It's very frustrating




Honestly, this is a big reason why gear that has custom rack ears available automatically gets moved up in my purchase consideration. I have one shelf in my rack, and I hate it, but there just isn’t a rack mount option For my old a Sony UHD player. Everything else is factory rack mount. 


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## Nillaz

kevin g. said:


> Thanks guys, but both places have similar pricing (I have also been a Prime member for 10+ years) ... and if you need all the shelving (10 or more), and blanks...it could get close to 500 bucks... And, as I said...with eBay, you might find a shelf or two for 15 or 20...but they want 48 bucks shipping. It's very frustrating



I agree that if you need all those shelves/blanks it's going to add up no matter what. On the flip side at the risk of sounding like a total shill I really have to advocate for AC Infinity. I received my blanks and shelves and I am much more impressed with the quality compared to the stock ones I received. The brushed finish and fitment is absolutely top notch and the pricing on Amazon was fair compared to virtually every other option I've found. I've already decided I'm going to order a couple more blanks and try my hand at cutting them to fit my existing existing gear. I have no experience with cutting metal at all so hopefully I don't completely botch the job lol.


----------



## rysher

can someone please help me on which 4 posts to get for this shelf https://www.navepoint.com/navepoint-1u-sliding-vented-4-post-shelf-1375-350mm-deep.html

the post will be bolted/screwed to the inside of a cabinet/tv console i am currently redoing.
thanks.


----------



## kevin g.

Nillaz said:


> I agree that if you need all those shelves/blanks it's going to add up no matter what. On the flip side at the risk of sounding like a total shill I really have to advocate for AC Infinity. I received my blanks and shelves and I am much more impressed with the quality compared to the stock ones I received. The brushed finish and fitment is absolutely top notch and the pricing on Amazon was fair compared to virtually every other option I've found. I've already decided I'm going to order a couple more blanks and try my hand at cutting them to fit my existing existing gear. I have no experience with cutting metal at all so hopefully I don't completely botch the job lol.



Thanks, I'll look in to those









rysher said:


> can someone please help me on which 4 posts to get for this shelf https://www.navepoint.com/navepoint-1u-sliding-vented-4-post-shelf-1375-350mm-deep.html
> 
> the post will be bolted/screwed to the inside of a cabinet/tv console i am currently redoing.
> thanks.







Simple Rack Rails? BTW nice looking Shepherd. Here's our boy:


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

Hi there and greetings from Germany,

due the reason AVS racks in 19" are not very popular I spent a lot of time to get alle the parts to built my rack cause I like this look so much and it looks very clean. Most parts are from the US (Middle Atlantic). Let me know what you think about;-)

Specifications:

Cabinet (custom build from meinschrank.de)
Rack (Caymon GPR424 24" height with full slide out and 90° Rotation
HE1: AC Infinity Cooling for 3 fans on the top
HE2-3: Panasonic BDT-100
HE4-5: Playstation 4 Pro
HE6-7: Apple TV
HE8-9: Mac Mini 2018 with 4K Reader and Plex Media Server
HE10: SilverStone RS431U Raid System for Plex Media Storage and 32TB Capacity (4Bays with 8TB Seagate IronWolf NAS)
HE11-15: Marantz SR7012 for Dolby Atmos Setup and Canton Vento System
HE16-19: Marantz MM7025 for the Fronts
HE19-24: Storage for PS Controllers and Charging Dock


----------



## rysher

is there a shelf that fully extends out?
the one i'm looking at doesnt.


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

rysher said:


> is there a shelf that fully extends out?
> the one i'm looking at doesnt.


Hi,

yes it fully slides out, I cannot link it directly cause I am below 5 posts...


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

See the PDF for details...


----------



## alangsk

Question: Are you using blanks and then cutting your own custom faceplates for your rack or do you buy custom faceplates from somewhere?


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## Stefan Lohmüller

alangsk said:


> Question: Are you using blanks and then cutting your own custom faceplates for your rack or do you buy custom faceplates from somewhere?


I bought custom racks plates from Middle Atlantic...they have a huge database of more than 10.000 items, even for products only available in Europe or Germany...

You would need an own CNC maschine to do it on your own with the same accuracy of cutting. The faceplates are fitting 100% and every button outside keeps its functionality...e.g. the Panasonic BDT-100


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

If anyone ist also interestend in pricings:

Cabinet: 230€
rack: 530€
AC Infinity Controller: 69,99$
AC Infinity FAN: 49,99$ (both from Amazon US) 156€ including taxes and shipment to Germany
Middle Atlantic frontplates: 69$ each + 24$ shipping to Germany (87,40€)

All Prices are inluding taxes and shipment to the door


----------



## Tedd

Very nice Stefan. 

Took me awhile to figure out what the hinged access was.


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

Tedd said:


> Very nice Stefan.
> 
> Took me awhile to figure out what the hinged access was.


Maybe it gets more clear on this youtube video:






switch to 0:55 where you can see the access of slide out and rotation to 45 degrees and 90 degrees with a second press of the release button.

Turn of sound, it´s polish...;-)

The manufacturer itself is from belgium...caymon.eu


----------



## Nillaz

Stefan Lohmüller said:


> If anyone ist also interestend in pricings:
> 
> Cabinet: 230€
> rack: 530€
> AC Infinity Controller: 69,99$
> AC Infinity FAN: 49,99$ (both from Amazon US) 156€ including taxes and shipment to Germany
> Middle Atlantic frontplates: 69$ each + 24$ shipping to Germany (87,40€)
> 
> All Prices are inluding taxes and shipment to the door



Your rack looks fantastic. If I may ask, does the pricing on those frontplates include the custom cutouts? Also, do those frontplates also require that you use specific Middle Atlantic rack shelves? I thought I had read that somewhere while I was researching custom faceplates. 



I don't mind experimenting with the DIY route or putting in the effort to find a local shop that can do it for me, but I'm not opposed to paying extra for an off the shelf solution for the sheer convenience of it.


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

Nillaz said:


> Your rack looks fantastic. If I may ask, does the pricing on those frontplates include the custom cutouts? Also, do those frontplates also require that you use specific Middle Atlantic rack shelves? I thought I had read that somewhere while I was researching custom faceplates.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mind experimenting with the DIY route or putting in the effort to find a local shop that can do it for me, but I'm not opposed to paying extra for an off the shelf solution for the sheer convenience of it.


Hi,

thank you very much! The pricing is only for the frontplates including custom cutouts...you need a general rack shelf depending to the height of your components. But those shelves do not need to be from middle atlantic...you can use a shelf of your choice. I haven´t found a local shop where they can do the same qualitiy of powdering and coating or with a higher level of pricing...the best offer was 200€/pc with a minimum order quantity of 20pcs;-(

The US Distributor who ships worldwide was performanceaudio.com...


----------



## Nillaz

Stefan Lohmüller said:


> Hi,
> 
> thank you very much! The pricing is only for the frontplates including custom cutouts...you need a general rack shelf depending to the height of your components. But those shelves do not need to be from middle atlantic...you can use a shelf of your choice. I haven´t found a local shop where they can do the same qualitiy of powdering and coating or with a higher level of pricing...the best offer was 200€/pc with a minimum order quantity of 20pcs;-(
> 
> The US Distributor who ships worldwide was performanceaudio.com...



Thanks so much for the info. performanceaudio.com is the site I originally saw these on and what led to my concern. The description says that the AFACE and SFACE plates are specifically for the Middle Atlantic RCS shelves. I assumed that there was something unique about the way these blanks attached to those shelves that make it unique. Perhaps Middle Atlantic is just trying to push their shelving? I do notice that a lot of rack shelves have a lip on the front that is meant to keep your gear from sliding forward and the RCS shelves seem to lack that. I'm wondering if that lip keeps the AFACE and SFACE from sitting flush against the shelf due to the reinforcement lip on the back of the blank.


Here in Eastern Pennsylvania we have a lot of shops with the proper cutting equipment. I'm going to call around over the next couple of days and see if I can get some idea of local pricing. $200+ will definitely be a no go, especially if there is a minimum on the number of pieces cut. I need 3 (possibly 4) blanks and one of them will definitely need some very specific custom dimensions.


----------



## jconjason

Nillaz said:


> Thanks so much for the info. performanceaudio.com is the site I originally saw these on and what led to my concern. The description says that the AFACE and SFACE plates are specifically for the Middle Atlantic RCS shelves. I assumed that there was something unique about the way these blanks attached to those shelves that make it unique. Perhaps Middle Atlantic is just trying to push their shelving? I do notice that a lot of rack shelves have a lip on the front that is meant to keep your gear from sliding forward and the RCS shelves seem to lack that. I'm wondering if that lip keeps the AFACE and SFACE from sitting flush against the shelf due to the reinforcement lip on the back of the blank.
> 
> 
> Here in Eastern Pennsylvania we have a lot of shops with the proper cutting equipment. I'm going to call around over the next couple of days and see if I can get some idea of local pricing. $200+ will definitely be a no go, especially if there is a minimum on the number of pieces cut. I need 3 (possibly 4) blanks and one of them will definitely need some very specific custom dimensions.


If you're also looking for shelving, give AC Infinity a look. I purchased all of my shelving from them on Amazon. They have different sizes available.

AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 1U Universal Rack Shelf, 10" Deep, for 19" equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 60lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9KYUG8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_N.5hEbFGXKQMK


----------



## Nillaz

jconjason said:


> If you're also looking for shelving, give AC Infinity a look. I purchased all of my shelving from them on Amazon. They have different sizes available.
> 
> AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 1U Universal Rack Shelf, 10" Deep, for 19" equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 60lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9KYUG8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_N.5hEbFGXKQMK



I appreciate the input. I already have an AC Infinity fan controller, rack fans, blanks, and a 3U drawer. I'll take a closer look at their shelves as well.


----------



## Stefan Lohmüller

Nillaz said:


> I appreciate the input. I already have an AC Infinity fan controller, rack fans, blanks, and a 3U drawer. I'll take a closer look at their shelves as well.


The AC infinity coated surface is also very similar to the Middle Atlantic frontblades. The distance of the mounting holes is always the same so you can use it with other shelfes as well. If there´s a difference between height of shelf and cutting you adjust this by putting both together. I worked with several shelfs from different manufacturers you can´t see the difference cause the shelf is 100% covered by the frontblade...


----------



## JeffG02

Can someone tell me if a 2 x 3 media closet will be sufficient size for a theater room rack? It's going to be solely for the media room, and maybe an AV receiver/DVD player for the living room. The home networking, WHA, Security stuff will be in a separate networking closet. 

I know that most racks are 22" wide, so this doesn't leave much wiggle room. Should I tell the architect we need at least 6 more inches? I plan on having an access door in the rear from the garage (an insulated door).


----------



## kevin g.

Well, I drove about an hour an a half to pick up my first rack. It is a Middle Atlantic ERK series. Decent shape...some scuffs. Enclosed, but has several options for ventilation. For any interested, Newegg is having a sale on their Rosewill brand rack shelves. I picked up several of the 1u 14inch depth for 14.99 ea. They were out of stock on the 2u, but I picked up a 2u of another brand for 20. The sale is only until tomorrow.


----------



## Rob Greer

thrillcat said:


> I have one shelf in my rack, and I hate it, but there just isn’t a rack mount option For my old a Sony UHD player. Everything else is factory rack mount.


If these guys don't have it, they can make you one. They are expensive as ****, but their product quality is the best. I have 3 of their custom pieces in my rack.

https://www.puretheatre.com/products/rack-mount-shelves/


----------



## Tedd

JeffG02 said:


> Can someone tell me if a 2 x 3 media closet will be sufficient size for a theater room rack? It's going to be solely for the media room, and maybe an AV receiver/DVD player for the living room. The home networking, WHA, Security stuff will be in a separate networking closet.
> 
> I know that most racks are 22" wide, so this doesn't leave much wiggle room. Should I tell the architect we need at least 6 more inches? I plan on having an access door in the rear from the garage (an insulated door).


It is big enough due to the rear access planned. The smallest racks seem to be the Middle Atlantic Slim5 racks at 20x20". Dennis Erskine used to recommend going with the 26" deep version, simply for more space for wiring. 

Unless you plan to host some unusually deep gear in that closet, you should be just fine. Are you planning on an actively cooled rack?


----------



## JeffG02

Tedd said:


> It is big enough due to the rear access planned. The smallest racks seem to be the Middle Atlantic Slim5 racks at 20x20". Dennis Erskine used to recommend going with the 26" deep version, simply for more space for wiring.
> 
> Unless you plan to host some unusually deep gear in that closet, you should be just fine. Are you planning on an actively cooled rack?


Thank you for your reply, that makes me feel better. And yes, I do plan on putting in active cooling. I haven't worked those specific details out yet, but I do know that I'll be doing something.


----------



## guptown

I just posted up pics of my theater build. Here are some pics of my in-cabinet rack solution from that thread.

The rack is a Middle Atlantic SRSR 2-14. This allows the rack to slide out and rotate giving access to the back of the components and for cord management. I used AC infinity for the intake and exhaust fans, the drawer and the surge protector (as mentioned above the AC infinity products have a nice brushed effect that matches the other components). I used Ikea kitchen boxes for the cabinets and I did the framing around the rack myself with moulding/caulking/paint.

The rack holds a Denon X4300H, Audiosource 1002 and Panasonic UB9000. Middle Atlantic did custom face plates for the Denon and the Panasonic.







































Here's how it rotates out...


----------



## BdoUK

Anyone using a turntable in a Sanus Component series rack? I just realized my Rega RP1 won't fit because it's wider than the shelf itself. I can maneuver it into the shelf but the fins on the shelves are too narrow. Does anyone have a good flat shelf option? I guess I could also mount a standard shelf upside down but curious what others are doing.


----------



## Rob Greer

Look at my big rack ...

I visited this thread many times when I was working on my build so I thought I'd share my finished result.


----------



## dwander

Rob Greer said:


> Look at my big rack ...
> 
> I visited this thread many times when I was working on my build so I thought I'd share my finished result.



Beautifully done!


----------



## pkinneb

Rob Greer said:


> Look at my big rack ...
> 
> I visited this thread many times when I was working on my build so I thought I'd share my finished result.


Thanks now I have to clean the drool off my keyboard 

That looks amazing!!


----------



## JudgeSmails

Rob Greer said:


> Look at my big rack ...


That's what she said. Sorry, like Michael Scott I couldn't help myself. 

What are your components? Your wiring skills are impressive. I thought my rack was good looking but no way will I show the back like that. So clean!


----------



## Rob Greer

JudgeSmails said:


> What are your components?


In my sig. And here:

https://www.robgreer.com/theater


----------



## rsnodgrass

Still putting together plan for installing everything in my "new" rack I found on Craigslist. This is the third version of reorganizing components in the rack. I'm still not sure if there will be thermal issues, but I've left vented air gaps between most components, so hopefully this help. This will also be placed in a fairly cool room (in the 60s) where a heat pump fairly regularly blows cold air.

Open issues:


whether it is necessary to add AC Infinity fans on the bottom (and top) or other cooling
 whether to use an APC H15 or a Panamax M5400-PM ... both have Voltage Regulation (and the H15 has served me well in other systems, and is quite a bit cheaper)


----------



## jconjason

rsnodgrass said:


> Still putting together plan for installing everything in my "new" rack I found on Craigslist. This is the third version of reorganizing components in the rack. I'm still not sure if there will be thermal issues, but I've left vented air gaps between most components, so hopefully this help. This will also be placed in a fairly cool room (in the 60s) where a heat pump fairly regularly blows cold air.
> 
> Open issues:
> 
> 
> whether it is necessary to add AC Infinity fans on the bottom (and top) or other cooling
> whether to use an APC H15 or a Panamax M5400-PM ... both have Voltage Regulation (and the H15 has served me well in other systems, and is quite a bit cheaper)


You'll definitely want some type of cooling or airflow in there. One of these would help...

https://www.acinfinity.com/search.php?search_query=Aircom

I use the T8 and plan to add another Aircom eventually.


----------



## NOLAGT

I currently have a omnimount 44U rack and im trying to put it in another spot in the AV closet. I only have 67.25" of height in this spot so ill need a shorter rack. I "think" I could fit everything in a 27u rack but i'd rather more space like a 35u but the 35s I have seen at about 1" too tall. I am not well versed on rack brands...does anyone have some ideas I can look at? Id like it to have wheels so I can get to the back of it for hooking things up and a glass door on the front. I'll add a cooling solution like acinfinity to it since I would have extra room if its too close to the floor or ceiling in that tight of a spot for top mounted fans. TIA


----------



## NOLAGT

Anyone have hands on experience with the Middle Atlantic RCS-3524? Looking at this diagram it looks like if I take the casters off and bottom out the feet I can’t get to 65.5” tall leaving almost a inch of space on the bottom for air flow. The spot I have is just under 67.5”. It seems it will fit and I’d if about a inch under and on top for airflow. Will this be enough space? It seems to me since it would be active with fans it should be? This is in a closet under stairs that has some AC pumped into it. 

Also if I use the shelves that come with it could I add the custom faceplates to them down the line if I wanted?

Thanks.


----------



## NOLAGT

NOLAGT said:


> Anyone have hands on experience with the Middle Atlantic RCS-3524? Looking at this diagram it looks like if I take the casters off and bottom out the feet I can’t get to 65.5” tall leaving almost a inch of space on the bottom for air flow. The spot I have is just under 67.5”. It seems it will fit and I’d if about a inch under and on top for airflow. Will this be enough space? It seems to me since it would be active with fans it should be? This is in a closet under stairs that has some AC pumped into it.
> 
> Also if I use the shelves that come with it could I add the custom faceplates to them down the line if I wanted?
> 
> Thanks.


Well I went with a MA ERK-3525 that I got off ebay for 450 shipped. It should just fit height wise but I dont think ill have space to run top mount fans. What im looking at is the AC Infinity Cloudplate T7 2U intake and exhaust system. Do yall think that will be enough flow? The rack is in a decent sized closet under the stairs and has a little AC vent pipped in. 

Equipment list is

8 Sonos Connect Amps

Blue Ray Player

Samson s1000 amp

Denon x6500

Icrealtime camera DVR

apple tv

fire tv

WD mycloud 2T HD

MyQ hub

Philips Hue hub

Unifi USG Pro4

Unifi 24 port PoE Switch

3x Panamax MR4300


I also plan to get the MA custom face plates for what I can...so if anyone has ideas on what to do with the small stuff like the HUBs and streaming boxes im all ears.


----------



## vld

NOLAGT said:


> (snip)Do yall think that will be enough flow? The rack is in a decent sized closet under the stairs and has a little AC vent pipped in.


Does that closet have any way for the warmer air to exit? Towards the ceiling of the closet?


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> Does that closet have any way for the warmer air to exit? Towards the ceiling of the closet?


The door is undercut so its like a normal room in the house. As the air going in it pressurizes the room and its drawn out under the door. It still stays warmer than the house in there, not hot tho. I never took a temp reading.

Its not a straight staircase it has a landing and a turn. So when you walk in the closet its tall like 8' then slopes down to about 6' then turns to the right and slopes sown to about 2' at the bottom of the stairs.

Here is a drawing of the area. Right at the door is where my 42U rack is. I am pushing this 35U rack straight back to the left corner. The air vent is about 6' up on the left side wall.


----------



## vld

Unfortunately the warm air rises, so what is probably coming out from below the door is cooler air. If you can find some way to add some sort of vent near the top, and possibly add some sort of seal to prevent the cool air from escaping under the door, I believe that would be the way to go.

I'm currently re-purposing a garage closet that backs up to my media room. To meet code, I had to replace the closet interior door with an exterior door, considering that I am opening that closet into the interior of the house. I went with an insulated steel door, that I can airtight seal with some products from here.

One of the closet side walls butts up to the stairway that leads to the basement den, so I am adding a 30"x2" vent near the closet floor, that will pull cool air from the stairway. In the ceiling of the rack closet I have installed a Panasonic Whisper exhaust fan with LED light, to remove the warmer air. So, the cool air will be coming in low to the floor and the vent out is in the ceiling. I'm hooking the panasonic fan up to a thermo controller, so that will only activate once the amps warm up.

If I can get the stock RCS top fans quiet enough, I'll use them. But I added a Noctua 200mm fan in the bottom of my RCS-4224. There was a 12"x12" cut out in the rack bottom that was perfect for that fan with some plexi as a frame. This will ensure the cool air from the floor will get taken into the rack.


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> Unfortunately the warm air rises, so what is probably coming out from below the door is cooler air. If you can find some way to add some sort of vent near the top, and possibly add some sort of seal to prevent the cool air from escaping under the door, I believe that would be the way to go.
> 
> I'm currently re-purposing a garage closet that backs up to my media room. To meet code, I had to replace the closet interior door with an exterior door, considering that I am opening that closet into the interior of the house. I went with an insulated steel door, that I can airtight seal with some products from here.
> 
> On of the closet side walls butts up to the stairway that leads to the basement den, so I am adding a 30"x2" vent near the closet floor, that will pull cool air from the stairway. In the ceiling of the rack closet I have installed a Panasonic Whisper exhaust fan with LED light, to remove the warmer air. So, the cool air will be coming in low to the floor and the vent out is in the ceiling. I'm hooking the panasonic fan up to a thermo controller, so that will only activate once the amps warm up.
> 
> If I can get the stock RCS top fans quiet enough, I'll use them. But I added a Noctua 200mm fan in the bottom of my RCS-4224. There was a 12"x12" cut out in the rack bottom that was perfect for that fan with some plexi as a frame. This will ensure the cool air from the floor will get taken into the rack.


I know its not optimal but unfortunately there is no way to vent anything from that area unless I vent the door, in surrounded by tall non accessible walls under stairs and second floors and exterior wall (shaded by a porch). 

That door is in the main front area so venting it will have a very low WAF lol. This is not in a dedicated theater. I could add a fan in the area to mix up they air or maybe that infinity rack air system will help mix the air in the area displacing? It doesn't get that hot in there I think. I was thinking the rack fan to circulate the air around the components so it doesn't build up in there since the rack has sidewalls and a back. The vent on the bottom is blocked because its sitting flat on the floor, it has to in order to fit. I will have about a inch of clearance on the top of the rack.

Does that 2U ACinfinity fan move a good amount of air? I have extra space I could fit the 3U if it would help mix the room air more. I haven't had any issues with heat in the last 5 years but I had a top mounted fan on the 42u


----------



## thrillcat

Vent into the stair. You could even disguise it with a light. 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Progress-L...VDdvACh3sfQRlEAQYBCABEgLPPvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



NOLAGT said:


> vld said:
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the warm air rises, so what is probably coming out from below the door is cooler air. If you can find some way to add some sort of vent near the top, and possibly add some sort of seal to prevent the cool air from escaping under the door, I believe that would be the way to go.
> 
> I'm currently re-purposing a garage closet that backs up to my media room. To meet code, I had to replace the closet interior door with an exterior door, considering that I am opening that closet into the interior of the house. I went with an insulated steel door, that I can airtight seal with some products from here.
> 
> On of the closet side walls butts up to the stairway that leads to the basement den, so I am adding a 30"x2" vent near the closet floor, that will pull cool air from the stairway. In the ceiling of the rack closet I have installed a Panasonic Whisper exhaust fan with LED light, to remove the warmer air. So, the cool air will be coming in low to the floor and the vent out is in the ceiling. I'm hooking the panasonic fan up to a thermo controller, so that will only activate once the amps warm up.
> 
> If I can get the stock RCS top fans quiet enough, I'll use them. But I added a Noctua 200mm fan in the bottom of my RCS-4224. There was a 12"x12" cut out in the rack bottom that was perfect for that fan with some plexi as a frame. This will ensure the cool air from the floor will get taken into the rack.
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not optimal but unfortunately there is no way to vent anything from that area unless I vent the door, in surrounded by tall non accessible walls under stairs and second floors and exterior wall (shaded by a porch).
> 
> That door is in the main front area so venting it will have a very low WAF lol. This is not in a dedicated theater. I could add a fan in the area to mix up they air or maybe that infinity rack air system will help mix the air in the area displacing? It doesn't get that hot in there I think. I was thinking the rack fan to circulate the air around the components so it doesn't build up in there since the rack has sidewalls and a back. The vent on the bottom is blocked because its sitting flat on the floor, it has to in order to fit. I will have about a inch of clearance on the top of the rack.
> 
> Does that 2U ACinfinity fan move a good amount of air? I have extra space I could fit the 3U if it would help mix the room air more. I haven't had any issues with heat in the last 5 years but I had a top mounted fan on the 42u
Click to expand...


----------



## vld

^ I agree. 

NOLAGT, remember you will be adding quite a bit of heat producing items in that closet. Even adding a fan 'to mix it the air' will really do nothing to remove the warmer air, so the warm air will just be multiplying warmer and warmer.


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> ^ I agree.
> 
> NOLAGT, remember you will be adding quite a bit of heat producing items in that closet. Even adding a fan 'to mix it the air' will really do nothing to remove the warmer air, so the warm air will just be multiplying warmer and warmer.


All that’s stuff has been in that closet for 5 years now. I’m just getting a shorter rack to push it into another spot. 

I took a temp reading today and right next to the rack was 83. Everything has been powered on but my denon wasn’t playing anything. Is that hot...I didn’t think that was too bad for air temp?


----------



## vld

^
If that is true, then the only thing that you should _need_ is proper airflow through the rack. Top fans at least, top and bottom fans preferably.

Personally, I would still closely monitor the the warmer components in your system with some sort of temperature alarm or remote display with sensor.


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> ^
> If that is true, then the only thing that you should _need_ is proper airflow through the rack. Top fans at least, top and bottom fans preferably.
> 
> Personally, I would still closely monitor the the warmer components in your system with some sort of temperature alarm or remote display with sensor.



I took that temp when I got home...the AC had been running before but not sure how long. I took one this morning in the same spot since I knew the AC hadn't been running overnight much if at all and it was at 88.4 mid way up. The rack in there has top fans that run all the time and I think it might be sucking in some cooler air from under the door...when I took a temp down there it was several degrees cooler. 

Here is a pic of how the rack sits now...I am getting the shorter rack and putting it in the back left corner in the pic...you can see the AC vent (brown) on the left wall. This room also turns to the left and goes back under the lower part of the stairs. 

You can see how the stairs drop down the ceiling (about 68") making it shorter in that area. The new rack will sit on the ground and have about 1-2" of clearance on top of it, thats why im looking at the AC infinity rack mount intake and exhaust fans. I think heat should be ok...what I can do if I have issues is to put a fan by the door to draw cooler air into the room like the old rack was doing. There is virtually no chance of me venting this room into any other place because im blocked structurally or by the wife lol.

So with this info would the 2u ACinfinity fans be good enough to cycle hot air trapped in the rack, out?

At what air temp should one start to worry??


----------



## vld

^
Those AC Infinity fans are great for cooling components. 

If your new rack is fully enclosed, (door, side and back panels), you need fans at least in the top of the rack. If is not fully enclosed the AC Infinity fans would probably be enough.


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> ^
> Those AC Infinity fans are great for cooling components.
> 
> If your new rack is fully enclosed, (door, side and back panels), you need fans at least in the top of the rack. If is not fully enclosed the AC Infinity fans would probably be enough.


New rack is a Middle Atlantic ERK-3525 that will have sides and a back door, no front door. It has some passive vents around the bottom and top edge but my plan was to use the MA custom face plate shelves and use the ACInfinity intake and exhaust fans to circulate the heat out of the rack that will be mostly closed off since it has sides, a back, and the components will be just showing through the face plates.

I am assuming the 2u version of those fans will be enough.











Like this


----------



## pkinneb

NOLAGT said:


> At what air temp should one start to worry??


When I was researching this I found several sources that said 85 or less was the goal...Having said that I was never really able to confirm if that's true or not.


----------



## NOLAGT

pkinneb said:


> When I was researching this I found several sources that said 85 or less was the goal...Having said that I was never really able to confirm if that's true or not.


Ok I am pretty close to that, I think its generally in that range. I will move forward with those 2u ACinfinity rack fans and monitor the temp in the room.


Anyone have ideas on mounting the small stuff like the HUBs, hard drive, and streaming boxes? 

I have seen the custom face plates for the appletv and id assume a fire tv, but I have a philips hue hub and some other small boxes that done have the right shape to be in a custom shelf and plate.


----------



## vld

For the smaller items like a Harmony hub, Lutron Hub and portable drives, I am currently thinking of a 1RU shelf with no face plate near the top.

Yes, that may appear a bit odd, but no more odd than having these little boxes sitting out in the media room by themselves.


----------



## pkinneb

I have my Directv, Harmony hub, and Ruku box all sitting on top of my DVD player, the open slot in this pic


----------



## NOLAGT

vld said:


> For the smaller items like a Harmony hub, Lutron Hub and portable drives, I am currently thinking of a 1RU shelf with no face plate near the top.
> 
> Yes, that may appear a bit odd, but no more odd than having these little boxes sitting out in the media room by themselves.





pkinneb said:


> I have my Directv, Harmony hub, and Ruku box all sitting on top of my DVD player, the open slot in this pic


Thats kind of what I was thinking too, a shelf with no face plate and them just sort of spread around. Just didnt know if they have certain kinds of shelves for those kinds of things. 

Would you make it a solid bottom shelf or a vented one? I ask because of the intake and exhaust fan setup I plan to run...I dont know if having a shelf without a face plate effects the performance of that setup?


----------



## pkinneb

NOLAGT said:


> Thats kind of what I was thinking too, a shelf with no face plate and them just sort of spread around. Just didnt know if they have certain kinds of shelves for those kinds of things.
> 
> Would you make it a solid bottom shelf or a vented one? I ask because of the intake and exhaust fan setup I plan to run...I dont know if having a shelf without a face plate effects the performance of that setup?


All of my shelf's are grated for airflow, here's a pic.










I do not have a faceplate but do use the glass door on the rack. I have ACinfinity fans at the bottom and top of the rack I also have a 4" vent at the top of my alcove pulling air out. The temps in the rack stay between 83-86 even during extended viewing 3+ movies. This was one area I wish there was more info on I really felt/feel like I am winging it a bit.


----------



## NOLAGT

pkinneb said:


> All of my shelf's are grated for airflow, here's a pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have a faceplate but do use the glass door on the rack. I have ACinfinity fans at the bottom and top of the rack I also have a 4" vent at the top of my alcove pulling air out. The temps in the rack stay between 83-86 even during extended viewing 3+ movies. This was one area I wish there was more info on I really felt/feel like I am winging it a bit.


A purely un educated guess but I cant see how mid 80s would be too much heat for AV equipment.


----------



## vld

It rather depends on specific equipment, but I have a 90+Lb 200W 7-channel amp and a top of the line 13.2 channel Pre/Pro that I would hate to see it sitting in 85˚ ambient temps. Currently they are in open air with two 120mm fans on top of each drawing out air, and even at 77˚ ambient temps they can get really warm varying in the 90-94˚ range when driven 'enthusiastically'. The internal heat sinks _have_ to be significantly warmer. 

If the ambient rose 8˚ to 85˚ I would imagine that the inner equipment temps could go over 100˚, and I know that I would not like seeing those temps at the equipment housing.

I have three LCD temp sensors that I will be adding to a blank faceplate to my rack with the probes on my two amps and the third on my preamp. The sensor probes will be inserted about 1" in each piece of equipment through the case's air vents nearest the warmer areas. I would love to Kapton tape the probes to the heat sinks, but I believe that monitoring the temps inside the equipment cases will be good enough for monitoring, just in case of any fans fail.

I guess you could use Middle Atlantic's automatic 
fan temp settings for a good 'rule of thumb' for equipment temps;

(fan) _shall activate at 87°F (30.5°C), reach full speed at 95°F (35°C) and switch off at 85°F (29.4°C)_.


----------



## BdoUK

I have a number of AC Infinity fans in my Sanus rack to help with cooling. The rack sits in a closet that's on a platform even with my riser in the back left corner of the theater. At the very bottom of the rack is my Parasound A21+ two channel amp which drives my B&W CM9 speakers. They like a lot of power so the Parasound warms up pretty quick while driving them.

Right above the Parasound I have a 1U AC Infinity Cloudplate intake fan. This pulls cold air from the lower front of the rack over the Parasound. I run the AC Infinity in "smart" mode, so it kicks on at low speed around 82 degrees and I rarely see it get above 86-87 when pressing the amp hard. 

My Marantz pre/pro also runs warm so I have an AC Infinity T8 that sits directly on top and vents to the back of the closet.

Finally at the very top of my rack I have an AC Infinity Cloudplate exhaust fan that moves the hot air moving to the top of the closet out of the rack. Additionally my air return for the room sits right in front of the rack so it helps pull the hot air out of the theater. 

The Cloudplates do get loud if you start to push the higher fan speeds which is really my only complaint about them. I'm not sure if the 2U and 3U models are any quieter or not but overall I'm happy with how they work.


----------



## pdasterly

building my first real rack, using middle atlantic rfr series rack. Looking at custom mounts from MA to mount a yamaha rx-a2060 avr. Does anyone know difference between RSH4A5XW and RSH4A5X?
I know the W means wide shelf but what does that mean? stock photo is shown on MA website.

https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...nts/custom-anodized-rackshelves/rsh4a5xw.aspx

https://www.middleatlantic.com/prod...unts/custom-anodized-rackshelves/rsh4a5x.aspx


----------



## Kevin4730

Anyone have an MA AXS rack? Looks like a nicer slim-5 you mount and get a track to slide out instead of casters. Debating if it’s worth the price difference, you could frame around it more than using casters for sure.


----------



## dwander

Posted a little while back but been some changes so i figured id post again. Also I am looking for some help. I wanted a AV rack when i built my room but didnt make sense to spend the money at the time when i still had changes planned for the system. Now the system is complete and id like to switch to an actual AV rack. I mean look at that shelf with the Monolith Amp....my man is not happy! It seems to me that the Sanus 36U rack can get me in the game for around $1000. I like how it comes with shelves, other accessories, and a glass door. But i really dont know much about AV racks and i know ill end up needing other accessories to do a nice neat complete job. Any help would be appreciated. Is there another brand that is comparable in price that would be better? Would it be better to order a skeleton and order the rest of the accessories separately for exactly what I need?


----------



## curtisG

Kevin4730 said:


> Anyone have an MA AXS rack? Looks like a nicer slim-5 you mount and get a track to slide out instead of casters. Debating if it’s worth the price difference, you could frame around it more than using casters for sure.


I have that exact rack. It's nice and makes working on the gear easy (which for me is not easily accessible). Getting all of the cables to fit onto the two scissor trays however is quite challenging. I have AC / Power going on one side and all the LV / Video on the other. It's still a mess - with 15 speaker 12awg wires, several HDMI, IR control, ethernet, etc.. it gets quite messy...


----------



## Kevin4730

curtisG said:


> I have that exact rack. It's nice and makes working on the gear easy (which for me is not easily accessible). Getting all of the cables to fit onto the two scissor trays however is quite challenging. I have AC / Power going on one side and all the LV / Video on the other. It's still a mess - with 15 speaker 12awg wires, several HDMI, IR control, ethernet, etc.. it gets quite messy...


Appreciate the feedback while I decide. Probably still easier to manage than a typical rack with casters. I think there is also an optional wider tray if it gets that bad.


----------



## dwander

So my rack came in a little over a week ago, and I think i got it setup the way I want. My last addition was a touchscreen monitor. Its setup as a secondary monitor connected to my computer, and I have it set right now to just show the Web UI for the Monolith HTP-1. Totally unnecessary, but I think it looks cool, and helps fill out the rack nice. Works well and gives easy control from the equipment room. Im not sure how much use its really gonna get, but I'm a sucker for those little upgrades to the theater. 

Still gotta add some AC infinity cooling in there, but a little indecisive on which way to go.


----------



## JamesVG81

Got my network rack in above my theater rack.


----------



## kaotikr1

dwander said:


> So my rack came in a little over a week ago, and I think i got it setup the way I want. My last addition was a touchscreen monitor. Its setup as a secondary monitor connected to my computer, and I have it set right now to just show the Web UI for the Monolith HTP-1. Totally unnecessary, but I think it looks cool, and helps fill out the rack nice. Works well and gives easy control from the equipment room. Im not sure how much use its really gonna get, but I'm a sucker for those little upgrades to the theater.
> 
> Still gotta add some AC infinity cooling in there, but a little indecisive on which way to go.


What monitor did you go with?


----------



## dwander

kaotikr1 said:


> What monitor did you go with?


I went with one of monoprices 5 wire monitors. It’s the 21.5” 16:9 version. If I was doing it again I would probably hold out for a 19” one that would fit nicer in a rack but it’s not too bad. It’s just kind of recessed a little.


----------



## mraub

I'm glad I found this thread because in looking at rack manufacture's websites over the weekend, I think I need some guidance. Most of the websites seem to assume you know what you are looking for, which I really don't.

I want to mount the equipment that requires user interaction flush in a wall with a smoked glass door. Right now that would be a Monoprice HTP-1 pre-pro and a Panasonic Blu-ray player. You can buy rack ears for the Monoprice and can buy a custom cutout panel for the Panasonic. I will have full access to the rear of the panel, so I don't need slide out or tilt out or anything like that. In looking at websites, I did find some wall mount racks with glass doors, but all were fully enclosed with integral fans, slide out functions etc.--much more complicated than I need. I also saw some simple wall mount racks, but did not see an option to get glass doors for those.

The pre-pro is 3U high and the Blu-ray player is 2U high. I can't imagine what other component I'd ever get that would need mounting in this rack, but you never know, so I'd like to oversize a bit and fill the empty spaces with blank panels.

Knowing what I am looking for, can someone please point me in the right direction. Thanks.


----------



## Eskimo1

Those of you using Behringer amps in the cabinets - are the doors enough to quiet the stock fans? And, did you reverse the direction of them? I would think rear exhaust would be better behind a closed door than blowing all that warm air out the front.


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## anjunadeep

mraub said:


> I'm glad I found this thread because in looking at rack manufacture's websites over the weekend, I think I need some guidance. Most of the websites seem to assume you know what you are looking for, which I really don't.
> 
> I want to mount the equipment that requires user interaction flush in a wall with a smoked glass door. Right now that would be a Monoprice HTP-1 pre-pro and a Panasonic Blu-ray player. You can buy rack ears for the Monoprice and can buy a custom cutout panel for the Panasonic. I will have full access to the rear of the panel, so I don't need slide out or tilt out or anything like that. In looking at websites, I did find some wall mount racks with glass doors, but all were fully enclosed with integral fans, slide out functions etc.--much more complicated than I need. I also saw some simple wall mount racks, but did not see an option to get glass doors for those.
> 
> The pre-pro is 3U high and the Blu-ray player is 2U high. I can't imagine what other component I'd ever get that would need mounting in this rack, but you never know, so I'd like to oversize a bit and fill the empty spaces with blank panels.
> 
> Knowing what I am looking for, can someone please point me in the right direction. Thanks.


It's been a few months so I think you've probably figured it out but here are my thoughts: You can buy something from Middle Atlantic with a smoked front door, but I agree the configurations are so complicated and the websites are terrible. I'd actually call them and try to speak to someone. Just make sure to think about cooling and ventilation if you put a door on it. As far as what to put.. I mean you might be surprised. I don't even have a UHD player because I only use Plex via nVidia Shield or AppleTV, but between my receiver, amp, network stuff, NAS, battery backup and a surge protector it fills up quick! And since you're using a pre-pro and not a receiver, you'd also need space for amplifiers!


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## anjunadeep

Eskimo1 said:


> Those of you using Behringer amps in the cabinets - are the doors enough to quiet the stock fans? And, did you reverse the direction of them? I would think rear exhaust would be better behind a closed door than blowing all that warm air out the front.


Doors may mask the noise some, but you need to still provide ventilation somehow. Racks get more complicated when enclosed because then you can't use the ambient air to cool it.


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## jongig

Ventilation. I think I had a great idea which I did 10-years ago. In the MiddleAtlantic rack closet I mounted a bathroom fan, sounds weird but not so much. The Panasonic fans cannot be heard, they also have a two wire two speed motor. When the amps are on the fan goes high and otherwise it's on 24/7 low. It also blows air into the closet from the adjacent room and uses a 20-inch dust filter. Twice a year I replace the filter and there's no dust on the equipment and the air effectively blows out the front of the MiddleAtlantic rack. The fan is about 100/600 cfm and prior to this I installed the MiddleAtlantic fans, couldn't stand the noise. Funny is I hate bathroom fans, who knew they could be so quiet, you just have to pony up some cash.


----------



## anjunadeep

jongig said:


> Ventilation. I think I had a great idea which I did 10-years ago. In the MiddleAtlantic rack closet I mounted a bathroom fan, sounds weird but not so much. The Panasonic fans cannot be heard, they also have a two wire two speed motor. When the amps are on the fan goes high and otherwise it's on 24/7 low. It also blows air into the closet from the adjacent room and uses a 20-inch dust filter. Twice a year I replace the filter and there's no dust on the equipment and the air effectively blows out the front of the MiddleAtlantic rack. The fan is about 100/600 cfm and prior to this I installed the MiddleAtlantic fans, couldn't stand the noise. Funny is I hate bathroom fans, who knew they could be so quiet, you just have to pony up some cash.


That's a great idea. Yeah I've seen people put racks on casters in closets and run AC ducts to the floor, with exhaust fans. The problem they had was in the winter when the AC isn't running often, it wouldn't cool the rack! The exhaust fans they'd use were just the normal ones though, a bathroom fan is a great idea. I have one of those ultra-quiet panasonics in my bathroom also, we just leave it on 24/7.


----------



## Wally_br

anjunadeep said:


> It's been a few months so I think you've probably figured it out but here are my thoughts: You can buy something from Middle Atlantic with a smoked front door, but I agree the configurations are so complicated and the websites are terrible. I'd actually call them and try to speak to someone. Just make sure to think about cooling and ventilation if you put a door on it. As far as what to put.. I mean you might be surprised. I don't even have a UHD player because I only use Plex via nVidia Shield or AppleTV, but between my receiver, amp, network stuff, NAS, battery backup and a surge protector it fills up quick! And since you're using a pre-pro and not a receiver, you'd also need space for amplifiers!
> 
> View attachment 3065288


anjunadeep, I am in the process of finishing my home theater and am looking for a rack exactly like yours. I am thinking of mounting it flush with the wall with a glass door though. I love your rack, although I need something way taller to fit everything I want to keep in there. Can you share what model you have. Thanks


----------



## curtisG

Eskimo1 said:


> Those of you using Behringer amps in the cabinets - are the doors enough to quiet the stock fans? And, did you reverse the direction of them? I would think rear exhaust would be better behind a closed door than blowing all that warm air out the front.


I replaced fans in all of my Behringer amps (4) and reversed the direction of air flow to exhaust to the rear. Now I can barely hear those running. Glad I did it


----------



## anjunadeep

Wally_br said:


> anjunadeep, I am in the process of finishing my home theater and am looking for a rack exactly like yours. I am thinking of mounting it flush with the wall with a glass door though. I love your rack, although I need something way taller to fit everything I want to keep in there. Can you share what model you have. Thanks


Mine is the WRK series. You can get it in a taller version and I wish I did (that said, I've owned this for 12 years now and it's served me well). The WRK is a bit wider than standard (enclosure, not the rails obviously), which I find helpful for cable management.






Middle Atlantic Products | Rack Systems, Technical Furniture, Power & Data/Structured Cabling | Legrand AV


Middle Atlantic Products | Rack Systems, Technical Furniture, Power & Data/Structured Cabling




www.middleatlantic.com





If you put a door in front make sure to figure out ventilation. It WILL be a problem if you don't think it out. And whatever overkill ventilation you think you need, and just when you say "that'll for sure do it"...then double it. Electronics in an enclosed space get hot quick. I'd probably have two intake fans at the bottom of the cabinet and two at the exhaust, large diameter. I loved the idea of the bathroom exhaust fan someone had just a few posts ago, those are very quiet when you get the good ones. My bathroom I don't even hear it. Ducting airconditioning in there is good too, but the problem with that is in the winter when the AC isn't running for that zone all the sudden there is no more cooling.


----------



## Wally_br

anjunadeep said:


> Mine is the WRK series. You can get it in a taller version and I wish I did (that said, I've owned this for 12 years now and it's served me well). The WRK is a bit wider than standard (enclosure, not the rails obviously), which I find helpful for cable management.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic Products | Rack Systems, Technical Furniture, Power & Data/Structured Cabling | Legrand AV
> 
> 
> Middle Atlantic Products | Rack Systems, Technical Furniture, Power & Data/Structured Cabling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.middleatlantic.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you put a door in front make sure to figure out ventilation. It WILL be a problem if you don't think it out. And whatever overkill ventilation you think you need, and just when you say "that'll for sure do it"...then double it. Electronics in an enclosed space get hot quick. I'd probably have two intake fans at the bottom of the cabinet and two at the exhaust, large diameter. I loved the idea of the bathroom exhaust fan someone had just a few posts ago, those are very quiet when you get the good ones. My bathroom I don't even hear it. Ducting airconditioning in there is good too, but the problem with that is in the winter when the AC isn't running for that zone all the sudden there is no more cooling.


Thanks for the details anjunadeep. I'll look into it. I wonder if I can get a version where the back is completely left open. That'll solve the ventilation issue and also give me full access to the back panels of all the gear in it.


----------



## anjunadeep

Wally_br said:


> Thanks for the details anjunadeep. I'll look into it. I wonder if I can get a version where the back is completely left open. That'll solve the ventilation issue and also give me full access to the back panels of all the gear in it.


I must have misunderstood, I thought you were tucking it into a cabinet (like a household cabinet). The back is open standard. You buy them as a bare rack, then add wheels/casters, doors, and whatever else you'd like.


----------



## citsur86

Just put my first rack together last night. It's actually in a niche cutout between my theater room and under the steps. I still need to work out ventilation and cooling but the posts a few up sound like a great idea. The back wall here goes to the mechanical room (but first it directly empties out to under the step platform) where the heater, hot water heater, etc. it. I could vent the room using a ultra quiet high cfm exhaust fan. I was also considering changing the door to this room to a louver door which might help. Anyone have any specific recommendations for high CFM, ultra quiet exhaust fans?

Oh and I'm looking for tips as to my Rack's organization/how its put together. I used these shelves since a lot of my gear isnt Rack mountable out of the box. However there is a slight recess downwards due to the nature of the shelves that puts my gear an inch or so behind the blank below it. I am considering possible buying some fan platforms to sit the gear on which would have the added benefit of raising it up to proper height for aesthetic purposes from the front.


----------



## anjunadeep

citsur86 said:


> Just put my first rack together last night. It's actually in a niche cutout between my theater room and under the steps. I still need to work out ventilation and cooling but the posts a few up sound like a great idea. The back wall here goes to the mechanical room (but first it directly empties out to under the step platform) where the heater, hot water heater, etc. it. I could vent the room using a ultra quiet high cfm exhaust fan. I was also considering changing the door to this room to a louver door which might help. Anyone have any specific recommendations for high CFM, ultra quiet exhaust fans?
> 
> Oh and I'm looking for tips as to my Rack's organization/how its put together. I used these shelves since a lot of my gear isnt Rack mountable out of the box. However there is a slight recess downwards due to the nature of the shelves that puts my gear an inch or so behind the blank below it. I am considering possible buying some fan platforms to sit the gear on which would have the added benefit of raising it up to proper height for aesthetic purposes from the front.


You can get custom faceplates cut if you want the really flush look. As far as organization, I think you have the right idea of having amps and things you rarely touch at the bottom and source devices taller. For wire management I'd run power down one side and signal down the other. Since you have cooling on the other side, you might want to add a frosted door if possible. That Crown probably has some bright lights, for example, and that can be distracting if it is in your viewing room. Some people it bothers more than others though. I can kinda see my signal lights and it's not a big deal to me, but I'm using a flat panel display rather than projector. If I had a projector, I'd find that not acceptable (due to it washing out blacks).


----------



## dwander

citsur86 said:


> Just put my first rack together last night. It's actually in a niche cutout between my theater room and under the steps. I still need to work out ventilation and cooling but the posts a few up sound like a great idea. The back wall here goes to the mechanical room (but first it directly empties out to under the step platform) where the heater, hot water heater, etc. it. I could vent the room using a ultra quiet high cfm exhaust fan. I was also considering changing the door to this room to a louver door which might help. Anyone have any specific recommendations for high CFM, ultra quiet exhaust fans?
> 
> Oh and I'm looking for tips as to my Rack's organization/how its put together. I used these shelves since a lot of my gear isnt Rack mountable out of the box. However there is a slight recess downwards due to the nature of the shelves that puts my gear an inch or so behind the blank below it. I am considering possible buying some fan platforms to sit the gear on which would have the added benefit of raising it up to proper height for aesthetic purposes from the front.


I love the look of the rack cut in to the wall. And I also use shelves for most of my gear. If you use the right size shelves you can get close to the faceplate look I think. I love the look of a rack with perfect custom place plates. Just looks so badass. But they are expensive I think. Anyway, the blank thing would bother me, the way it blocks parts of the gear. But maybe some different shelves or smaller blanks could fix that at some point.


----------



## Wally_br

dwander said:


> So my rack came in a little over a week ago, and I think i got it setup the way I want. My last addition was a touchscreen monitor. Its setup as a secondary monitor connected to my computer, and I have it set right now to just show the Web UI for the Monolith HTP-1. Totally unnecessary, but I think it looks cool, and helps fill out the rack nice. Works well and gives easy control from the equipment room. Im not sure how much use its really gonna get, but I'm a sucker for those little upgrades to the theater.
> 
> Still gotta add some AC infinity cooling in there, but a little indecisive on which way to go.
> View attachment 3033954
> View attachment 3033953
> View attachment 3033955
> View attachment 3033956


That's an awesome rack you got there. Can you please share what brand/model you got ? Is the back open or fully enclosed ? My theater room is adjacent to my giant mechanical room and the rack will back into it, so I have all the space I need for ventilation.


----------



## dwander

Wally_br said:


> That's an awesome rack you got there. Can you please share what brand/model you got ? Is the back open or fully enclosed ? My theater room is adjacent to my giant mechanical room and the rack will back into it, so I have all the space I need for ventilation.


It’s a snap av strong FS series rack. It’s fully enclosed with removable panels. I am using it with the back panel off though.


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## Wally_br

dwander said:


> It’s a snap av strong FS series rack. It’s fully enclosed with removable panels. I am using it with the back panel off though.


Sweet. Thanks for the details. I'll look into it.


Edit: Their site says "Our website is exclusively for authorized custom integrators" when I click on "buy" just to see the price. 

Did you get it from a third party? Also, do you mind sharing what you paid for it?

Thanks again.


----------



## mercer2

This is the server room in my house 

I'm not an audiophile, just like music in general and technology

feel free to ask any questions

I divided it in 3 racks, 

one for network/server
one for video
one for audio


Then I added dedicated electrical circuits for racks 7 x 30 amps = 210amps
plus a dedicated 2 ton AC
everything is controlled by RTI, 


Basic specs;
100GBe core network - unifi leaf
3 x 48 Poe switches
54 bay nas storage - 1 petabyte (pending need to upgrade disk sizes)
3 servers KVM over IP plus local HD console
1 voip server – 14 phone extensions 
1 enterprise cellular amplification
32 audio zones
4 surround zones
4K video over Ip distribution
12 video sources
Whole house karaoke with RF antenna switcher
24 Ip cameras with color night vision, some thermal
3 video Ip intercoms
Home automation - crestron
media ingestion station for when I take pictures/video. thunderbolt 3 speeds
210 amps dedicated for racks 7 x 30 amps




feel free to ask any questions


----------



## idratherbeflying

mercer 2! Killer rack set-up! I do have a few questions since we are overlapping on some gear, despite a much smaller scale on my end! Are those MA's deeper racks to allow some of the longer network gear? How is the noise and heat from those QNAPs? And, each is on it's own Eaton/UPS? I've been drooling over their 24-bay units all year but it's the cost of the drives that kills me! Thanks for the photos. Love the four charts on the wall too, I want all of that !


----------



## mercer2

idratherbeflying said:


> mercer 2! Killer rack set-up! I do have a few questions since we are overlapping on some gear, despite a much smaller scale on my end! Are those MA's deeper racks to allow some of the longer network gear? How is the noise and heat from those QNAPs? And, each is on it's own Eaton/UPS? I've been drooling over their 24-bay units all year but it's the cost of the drives that kills me! Thanks for the photos. Love the four charts on the wall too, I want all of that !



the model of the racks are 38" deep plus 45u high BGR-4538LRD 
then I also added 
6 x ceiling cable penetration
24" cable ladders
45 RU Cable Chase Front/Back Section for BGR Racks
44 RU to 45 RU Forward Full Height Utility Light, White with Dimmer & IR Sensor (they turn on everytime i walk trough the back of the isle)
various full deep drawers and retractable shelf

on the noise heat of the qnap, the expansions chassis are the louder and hottest things, is a dedicated server room, they are loud, but not the qnap 2480 is not as loud as a 1u qnap unit.
cooling the room has a dedicated 2 ton AC, ducted unit.

4 eaton 9PX3000RTN, with 7 x eaton ema108-10, all centrally controlled with a eaton intelligent power manager.
1 ups plus 2 external battery modules for internet and wifi, (700 minute backup time)
1 ups for server 15 minutes
1 ups for video rack some untis
1 ups for audio rack some units (audio streaming server etc)

for drives I shuck them look at sales I'm able to get $14.5/TB on 16tb disk units, just wait for the sales that happen 3 times a year.

some old pics of the ladder wires, zip ties where temporary....


----------



## pkinneb

In your house?? Now I want to see the house LOL


----------



## idratherbeflying

mercer2 said:


> the model of the racks are 38" deep plus 45u high BGR-4538LRD
> then I also added
> 6 x ceiling cable penetration
> 24" cable ladders
> 45 RU Cable Chase Front/Back Section for BGR Racks
> 44 RU to 45 RU Forward Full Height Utility Light, White with Dimmer & IR Sensor (they turn on everytime i walk trough the back of the isle)
> various full deep drawers and retractable shelf
> 
> on the noise heat of the qnap, the expansions chassis are the louder and hottest things, is a dedicated server room, they are loud, but not the qnap 2480 is not as loud as a 1u qnap unit.
> cooling the room has a dedicated 2 ton AC, ducted unit.
> 
> 4 eaton 9PX3000RTN, with 7 x eaton ema108-10, all centrally controlled with a eaton intelligent power manager.
> 1 ups plus 2 external battery modules for internet and wifi, (700 minute backup time)
> 1 ups for server 15 minutes
> 1 ups for video rack some untis
> 1 ups for audio rack some units (audio streaming server etc)
> 
> for drives I shuck them look at sales I'm able to get $14.5/TB on 16tb disk units, just wait for the sales that happen 3 times a year.
> 
> some old pics of the ladder wires, zip ties where temporary....


Ah, those are the really deep racks, and I see the cable chases between too. I'll follow your lead on my next set-up then, my racks now are basic 25" depth and I'm always a bit shy on space back there for gear and wiring. There is something soothing about having the rack and wiring all dialed-in.

Interesting on the noise levels! May have to adjust some plans based on that and your Air Cond. comments. I like QNAP though, their units have been solid for me. Appreciate the answers, thank you.


----------



## Bryce2320

mercer2 said:


> feel free to ask any questions
> 
> View attachment 3073814
> View attachment 3073815
> View attachment 3073816
> View attachment 3073817
> View attachment 3073818
> View attachment 3073819
> View attachment 3073820


Can we see pictures of the rest of the house?

Is there over 6 figures in gear in those racks?!?!?!

What are the 32 zones of audio, and what do you use to power and switch those zones?


----------



## bluer101

You can see he has 8 ac thermostats there and layout of those zones on the wall. Looks like that room is bigger than my theater, lol.


----------



## mercer2

Bryce2320 said:


> Can we see pictures of the rest of the house?
> 
> Is there over 6 figures in gear in those racks?!?!?!
> 
> What are the 32 zones of audio, and what do you use to power and switch those zones?


I went a little over board with the audio, I put speakers in all rooms and bathrooms, For the guest bathrooms and elevator I have a regular schedule that plays a spotify playlist.

system is casatune CT-8 music server
with 2 x RTI AD-16X matrix switchers that gives me 32 zones with 16 sources matrix.
it also integrates with the paging from the sangome pbx voip server.
also with the alarm, casatunes does text to speech, so when there is an incident the system tells you where is the incident from.
Also we use just add power for video distribution, and have the audio extracted and go into source of the audio matrix.
additionally, I also have a audio encoder barix instreamer, that allows me to use any tv with the headphones in my iphone/ipad. (my tv was to far from my bed, bluetooth did not worked)

for amps besides the receivers on the surround zones we use the zones are powered by
9 x sonance dsp 8-130
2 x sonance dsp 2-750
with dedicated ac infinity blowing the hot air to the hot aisle side of the racks.
the ups at the bottom is only used for the casatunes server and the poe switch at the top.


----------



## Eskimo1

Found a good deal on a 25U ATI "Magaframe" cabinet that was unused - a $2,000 rack, got it (delivered even) for $250.
I'd give my neighbor's first born for a 2U trim panel for the UB420 - it's just a _wee_ bit too tall to have a 1U blanking panel above it.










Also snapped this of the back side.. The cheapy LED strips I put in the back of the rack REALLY helps when I have to do wiring work.. it's a cave inside otherwise!


----------



## Bäsemödel

Mercer, i understand the rack deployment in the home but the copier? I cant wrap my head around the copier...


----------



## ChuckyChaz

I'll add mine...

New home, new theater. Instead of going with a huge rack, I went the minimalist route but still on display with great ventilation. Don't mind the room as it's still in progress. Pics are about 18 months old. 7.1.4 setup driving 3 QSC SC-2150's upfront, 4 modified SC-2150's for the sides and rears, 4 horn loaded in-ceiling speakers, and 4 sealed 18" subs using Mach 5 Audio drivers.


----------



## mercer2

Bäsemödel said:


> Mercer, i understand the rack deployment in the home but the copier? I cant wrap my head around the copier...


I know the huge multifunction printer is a bit odd, I had it in storage, took the measurements and fitted in the space so I decided to bring it home. I have 2 hp mfp one in each home office, 1 canon imageprograph 1000 and this one HP m880z+. which does everything including saddle bookstich, fold, stapling, holes etc. I use it occasionally specially with 3 kids in school. also I have a big shredder AutoMax 550C Auto Feed Shredder on the side of the rack.


----------



## Technology3456

Where do you guys purchase your projector racks? I need a shelf with wide and tall segments, maybe 3 or 4 of them, up to 4-5 feet tall, with a flat surface on top with space for a projector to sit on top and maybe I can build some sort of hush box around it. It needs to be strong and sturdy but I would like it to have as thin shelves as possible so that if I want to double stack, there is not extra space between the shelves.

So for it to be thin, but strong, Im thinking maybe metal? But would that overheat a lot faster? is there a metal that will keep colder? I could always put a cloth on top of the metal or something, or what do you guys think? 

Once I find one, I will post a picture of it.


----------



## BdoUK

Does anyone use a turntable in their rack? I currently have one on a static shelf but thinking replacing that with a low profile Middle Atlantic sliding shelf will allow for easier access while not taking up as much rack space. Anyone with experience on the MA sliding shelves and if they work well for turntables?


----------



## citsur86

Finally got the glass to cover my built in wall rack. Figured I’d share!


----------



## soarhead25

citsur86 said:


> Finally got the glass to cover my built in wall rack. Figured I’d share!


 I really like that. The tinted glass really sets it off. I plan to do something similar with a storm door-lol. I think the door really helps keep down the noise from fanned equipment and glare to a minimum while keeping IR functionality.


----------



## kaptainkev

Eskimo1 said:


> Found a good deal on a 25U ATI "Magaframe" cabinet that was unused - a $2,000 rack, got it (delivered even) for $250.
> I'd give my neighbor's first born for a 2U trim panel for the UB420 - it's just a _wee_ bit too tall to have a 1U blanking panel above it.
> 
> View attachment 3081105
> 
> 
> Also snapped this of the back side.. The cheapy LED strips I put in the back of the rack REALLY helps when I have to do wiring work.. it's a cave inside otherwise!
> View attachment 3081143


thanks for sharing the pic's - especially as a rack newb I am curious how you like the rack and the receiver mount. looks like your denon (and infinity fan) are sitting on a rail, not a shelf? my fear going non shelf is having the weight cause the receiver to sag at the back, especially without a rear support. what kit did you use?

I like he setup!


----------



## Eskimo1

kaptainkev said:


> thanks for sharing the pic's - especially as a rack newb I am curious how you like the rack and the receiver mount. looks like your denon (and infinity fan) are sitting on a rail, not a shelf? my fear going non shelf is having the weight cause the receiver to sag at the back, especially without a rear support. what kit did you use?


It's the official Denon rack mount kit, so it's pretty solid! I got it from @jdsmoothie 

My XPA-5 doesn't have a rear support as part of the rack mount kit either, and it's 3 times the weight! I wish there were rear supports built in because I overthink things, but it works.


----------



## kaptainkev

Eskimo1 said:


> It's the official Denon rack mount kit, so it's pretty solid! I got it from @jdsmoothie
> 
> My XPA-5 doesn't have a rear support as part of the rack mount kit either, and it's 3 times the weight! I wish there were rear supports built in because I overthink things, but it works.


I just realized the ears actually screw into the side of the receiver - now it makes sense!
thanks


----------



## corock

It's been a few years since I originally posted my rack and there's been a number of changes/additions since then.
Here's how it looks today.


















There's a little story about the blue lights on either side of the Xbox Series X. While I was waiting for the Xbox to arrive (2 months) my local Middle Atlantic supplier thought they would be proactive and order the custom face plate/shelf in advance so I could install it all at once. Middle Atlantic hadn't cut one yet so they used the specs that are online for the order. However, those specs include the base that keeps it off the ground when mounted vertical. Obviously that base isn't a factor when mounted horizontal so the face plate cutout was 5mm too wide. I saw an opportunity to make lemonade out of lemons and used a $12 USB LED strip, and some strategically placed Scotch tape to smooth out the light pattern, to create the side glow.


----------



## kevin g.

Guys, I have been finally getting a chance to install my rack over the last few days, (old DIY rack removed, and new hole cut for replacement). I am having trouble with wire organization. I know what I want it to be, but my rack...(MA ERK series 42U) only has small "knockouts" at the top, and largish (3-4") holes toward the bottom. The ERK series is not full depth, (20") and it has a rear door...so things are tight. I am trying to work with the upper knockouts...but in the beginning stages of pulling and routing, I can already tell it's going to be a fight...and I definitely don't have the excess wire to run to the bottom 4" knockouts and back up throughout the cabinet.

Any thoughts, tips?


----------



## Kevin4730

BdoUK said:


> Does anyone use a turntable in their rack? I currently have one on a static shelf but thinking replacing that with a low profile Middle Atlantic sliding shelf will allow for easier access while not taking up as much rack space. Anyone with experience on the MA sliding shelves and if they work well for turntables?


I just got the MA slide out shelf. It still needs to be adjusted because it has arms to the back of the rack that aren’t deep enough for my 26” deep MA rack and it’s a pretty basic wood laminate rack. Initial impression, kind of expected more from MA tbh. I can post a picture later


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vld

kevin g. said:


> Guys, I have been finally getting a chance to install my rack over the last few days, (old DIY rack removed, and new hole cut for replacement). I am having trouble with wire organization. I know what I want it to be, but my rack...(MA ERK series 42U) only has small "knockouts" at the top, and largish (3-4") holes toward the bottom. The ERK series is not full depth, (20")....


I'm currently working with a MA RCS-4224 that is also 20" deep. The top and bottom has a wide 7" grommet for routing cables. And still I find this a bit restricting for my installation. Middle Atlantic sells these grommets, (Legrand AV), and I'm planning on adding one to the side door of my RCS-4224. Maybe this could help you if you can cut metal for the grommet opening.


----------



## Bhunt240

Not finished yet room is still under construction and the rack is awaiting a Panasonic DP-UB9000 and rack mounts for the panamax xbox and marantz
5 dedicated circuits to the rack 
2 furman power conditioners 
1 panamax m5300-pm power conditioner 
Marantz av7702MKII 
7- Crown XTI2000s 
2- Sanway FP14000


----------



## Black95tt

WOW. Lots of power there. Where are you getting the Marantz rack kit? I failed to locate one for mine.


----------



## BdoUK

Black95tt said:


> WOW. Lots of power there. Where are you getting the Marantz rack kit? I failed to locate one for mine.


I just moved from a Marantz to an Anthem and have a Marantz rack kit I'd be willing to part with. What unit are you using?


----------



## Black95tt

SR8012.


----------



## RemixMark

Bhunt240 said:


> Not finished yet room is still under construction and the rack is awaiting a Panasonic DP-UB9000 and rack mounts for the panamax xbox and marantz
> 5 dedicated circuits to the rack
> 2 furman power conditioners
> 1 panamax m5300-pm power conditioner
> Marantz av7702MKII
> 7- Crown XTI2000s
> 2- Sanway FP14000
> View attachment 3107453
> View attachment 3107454
> View attachment 3107455


Damn son, what are you planning on hooking up to all those gorgeous amps?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bhunt240

BdoUK said:


> I just moved from a Marantz to an Anthem and have a Marantz rack kit I'd be willing to part with. What unit are you using?


I found mine on ebay but theres a few for sale on here i think


----------



## Bhunt240

RemixMark said:


> Damn son, what are you planning on hooking up to all those gorgeous amps?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The crownXTIs are all for my main lcr, surrounds and atmos. The 2 Sanway FP14000 are for the 4- 18" subs
QSC 2150s for LCR eith a crown XTI2000 bridged per cabinet and DIY 10" side and rear surrounds with a EAW 10" midrange and a PRV D290py compression driver.
7.4.4


----------



## kevin g.

vld said:


> I'm currently working with a MA RCS-4224 that is also 20" deep. The top and bottom has a wide 7" grommet for routing cables. And still I find this a bit restricting for my installation. Middle Atlantic sells these grommets, (Legrand AV), and I'm planning on adding one to the side door of my RCS-4224. Maybe this could help you if you can cut metal for the grommet opening.


Thanks...I just forged ahead with the install, instead of worrying over it and over thinking what I have and what I need. It's definitely not as nicely routed as most of the builds here...but it is infinitely better than what I had. Sorting and labeling was the biggest obstacle.


----------



## kevin g.

And...Before:















DIY with chipboard melamine panels

After:









42u ERK series Middle Atlantic.

Very happy with the upgrade.


----------



## pkinneb

Very nice!


----------



## kevin g.

Thank you!


----------



## Nutdotnet

Black95tt said:


> SR8012.


Hit up AVScience here on the forum. I was running into the same issues as you and they hooked me up for my 6013.

I believe the 8012 is larger so the ears may be different, but if they can't track them down, no one can!


----------



## dwander

A good amount has changed since my last post so throwing up some updated pictures. I think my favorite solution is the little 1U decora panel below the miniDSP. There are temporary connections that I need easy access to. Originally I had the wires coming out the side of the rack and coiled up hanging on the wall, but I didn't like the way it looked. So found this Middle Atlantic panel that has 4 spots for decora plates. There's a cat6 connection if I need to hardwire something in temporarily. Then I have an HDMI that's connected to the processor which is for my iMac and running REW. Then optical and analog which are both connected to the processor (doesn't get much use). Last are two USBs. The first one was for USB audio, and the second is connected to the miniDSP. Just makes things nice and easy when I need to make those connections.


----------



## thrillcat

dwander said:


> A good amount has changed since my last post so throwing up some updated pictures. I think my favorite solution is the little 1U decora panel below the miniDSP. There are temporary connections that I need easy access to. Originally I had the wires coming out the side of the rack and coiled up hanging on the wall, but I didn't like the way it looked. So found this Middle Atlantic panel that has 4 spots for decora plates. There's a cat6 connection if I need to hardwire something in temporarily. Then I have an HDMI that's connected to the processor which is for my iMac and running REW. Then optical and analog which are both connected to the processor (doesn't get much use). Last are two USBs. The first one was for USB audio, and the second is connected to the miniDSP. Just makes things nice and easy when I need to make those connections.


What gauge strings are those? Those are super-light. Can't even see them.


----------



## TurkeyTom

Eskimo1 said:


> Found a good deal on a 25U ATI "Magaframe" cabinet that was unused - a $2,000 rack, got it (delivered even) for $250.
> I'd give my neighbor's first born for a 2U trim panel for the UB420 - it's just a _wee_ bit too tall to have a 1U blanking panel above it.
> 
> View attachment 3081105
> 
> 
> Also snapped this of the back side.. The cheapy LED strips I put in the back of the rack REALLY helps when I have to do wiring work.. it's a cave inside otherwise!
> View attachment 3081143


It probably won't cover the empty space completely but you could go with a half u panel like this: 

Amazon.com: Elite Core RP.5U-BLANK Rack Panel.5U Blank: Musical Instruments


----------



## dwander

thrillcat said:


> What gauge strings are those? Those are super-light. Can't even see them.


I’m more of an air guitarist. Make a lot less mistakes that way.


----------



## squared80

Best place for cheap racks?


----------



## Bäsemödel

squared80 said:


> Best place for cheap racks?


Reverb, CL, FBM… your local music store if you have one…


----------



## Eskimo1

TurkeyTom said:


> It probably won't cover the empty space completely but you could go with a half u panel like this:
> 
> Amazon.com: Elite Core RP.5U-BLANK Rack Panel.5U Blank: Musical Instruments


Thanks!


----------



## Gates

Here's mine


----------



## dwander

Gates said:


> Here's mine
> 
> View attachment 3157478


Very nice! That Lyngdorf is one beautiful piece of gear.


----------



## Gates

dwander said:


> Very nice! That Lyngdorf is one beautiful piece of gear.


Thank you! It's sitting on hockey pucks


----------



## dwander

Gates said:


> Thank you! It's sitting on hockey pucks


Ha. Didn’t notice that. What’s that about?


----------



## Gates

dwander said:


> Ha. Didn’t notice that. What’s that about?


The front of the shelf has angles on it and the Lyngdorf would of rubbed against it and scratched it, so I had to raise it.


----------



## vld

After a few years of planning and acquiring parts I'm about to finish my rack setup, and I have ran into a question that I can't seem to locate an answer for. I have performed multiple web and AVS forum searches without much luck.

I have a Harmony remote and the Precision IR cables,








and I can't seem to find any advise on where would be the best locations for placing the IR emitters. There rack that I am using is a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-4224
with a front door.

I would appreciate any input or suggestions!


----------



## dwander

vld said:


> After a few years of planning and acquiring parts I'm about to finish my rack setup, and I have ran into a question that I can't seem to locate an answer for. I have performed multiple web and AVS forum searches without much luck.
> 
> I have a Harmony remote and the Precision IR cables,
> View attachment 3159189
> 
> and I can't seem to find any advise on where would be the best locations for placing the IR emitters. There rack that I am using is a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-4224
> with a front door.
> 
> I would appreciate any input or suggestions!


Those emitters look like ones that are supposed to be stuck on each component. Just look for the IR sensor on whatever component your looking to hit, peel the paper of the back of the emitter and stick it on there.


----------



## vld

Thanks for the quick response!
I was hoping for a cleaner installation with sticking these more out of sight, maybe side firing across the front of the equipment.


----------



## Nillaz

I used to have those emitters with some of my old Harmony remotes and I hated them on the front of my gear even with the rubber covers that went over them. They're definitely designed to be placed directly on top of the ir sensors on your equipment but given the short distance you can probably get away with firing them from the inside edge of your rack.


----------



## Sands_at_Pier147

In my last house, my equipment rack was in a hallway of sorts leading into the theater. So the rack was on the right, and there was a wall to the left, maybe 4 feet in front of the rack. I ran an IR repeater from the theater into an in-wall IR blaster, which sat directly across the hallway from the rack. Blasted IR signals at the rack from the front without having to use the little emitters. Maybe a similar solution would work for you?


----------



## BdoUK

I’m not sure which Harmony you have but if it’s hub compatible you can also use that. In my theater the rack is at the back left wall and faces toward the side of the projector. I simply mounted the hub near the projector on the ceiling with velcro. I did have to run an IR repeater to behind the projector to get it to consistently turn on but no issues with the rack equipment as the hub fires directly toward it. 

I should note I also use trigger cables in the rack where possible.


----------



## vld

Thanks guys. I may try the regular IR blasters that came with my Harmony Elite before resorting to the Precision IR emitters.


----------



## MOTOWNN

I’ve been lurking in this thread for over a year for ideas , and tips I’ve finally finished my Strong signature series 42U Rack!
Power supply is a Furman 20 amp unit

Pre Pro is a Maranzt 8805

Fans are AC infinity 3U (intakes) 4 , 6 exhaust cloud plate fans are mounted on top cover

3 Marantz power amps 8807 (150watts) 1 for Front L and R towers , 1 for Center channel , side and rear surrounds , and 1 for 6 Atmos in ceiling speakers

Panasonic 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player DP-UB9000

AC infinity power supply

2 AC infinity 3U pull out drawers

I still need to order XLR cables , and speaker wire , I sold my Marantz SR8012 last year to go seperates its been quite the adventure to say the least!


----------



## RemixMark

MOTOWNN said:


> I’ve been lurking in this thread for over a year for ideas , and tips I’ve finally finished my Strong signature series 42U Rack!
> Power supply is a Furman 20 amp unit
> 
> Pre Pro is a Maranzt 8805
> 
> Fans are AC infinity 3U (intakes) 4 , 6 exhaust cloud plate fans are mounted on top cover
> 
> 3 Marantz power amps 8807 (150watts) 1 for Front L and R towers , 1 for Center channel , side and rear surrounds , and 1 for 6 Atmos in ceiling speakers
> 
> Panasonic 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player DP-UB9000
> 
> AC infinity power supply
> 
> 2 AC infinity 3U pull out drawers
> 
> I still need to order XLR cables , and speaker wire , I sold my Marantz SR8012 last year to go seperates its been quite the adventure to say the least!
> 
> View attachment 3201624
> 
> View attachment 3201626
> 
> View attachment 3201625


Nice setup. You gotta show us the rear and take the stickers off your gear 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Adrian Palmer

Unconventional I guess. Analogue out from modified Penny 9000. 7.4.0


----------



## Havinthangs

MOTOWNN said:


> I’ve been lurking in this thread for over a year for ideas , and tips I’ve finally finished my Strong signature series 42U Rack!
> Power supply is a Furman 20 amp unit
> 
> Pre Pro is a Maranzt 8805
> 
> Fans are AC infinity 3U (intakes) 4 , 6 exhaust cloud plate fans are mounted on top cover
> 
> 3 Marantz power amps 8807 (150watts) 1 for Front L and R towers , 1 for Center channel , side and rear surrounds , and 1 for 6 Atmos in ceiling speakers
> 
> Panasonic 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player DP-UB9000
> 
> AC infinity power supply
> 
> 2 AC infinity 3U pull out drawers
> 
> I still need to order XLR cables , and speaker wire , I sold my Marantz SR8012 last year to go seperates its been quite the adventure to say the least!
> 
> View attachment 3201624
> 
> View attachment 3201626
> 
> View attachment 3201625


Where did you buy your rack from . I m having a hard time finding one to purchase. Thanks


----------



## MOTOWNN

Havinthangs said:


> Where did you buy your rack from . I m having a hard time finding one to purchase. Thanks


I bought my rack from Chris at Dreammedia


----------



## vld

It seems like it has taken forever, running cable, installing a sub breaker box, finishing drywall... especially in an already finished house.

A 7.2.4 atmos system with 3-way 8" ceiling speakers and two SVS PB13 Ultras at the rear that aren't in the pics. Now to save up for that 77" OLED.

But it's finally up and running! Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.


----------



## anjunadeep

vld said:


> It seems like it has taken forever, running cable, installing a sub breaker box, finishing drywall... especially in an already finished house.
> 
> A 7.2.4 atmos system with 3-way 8" ceiling speakers and two SVS PB13 Ultras at the rear that aren't in the pics. Now to save up for that 77" OLED.
> 
> But it's finally up and running! Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.
> 
> View attachment 3212675
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212676
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212677
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212681
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212682
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212683
> 
> 
> View attachment 3212684


What a beautiful rack and clean installation of it all! What brand rack is that? Yeah, the 77" oled will really tie it all together. They keep getting cheaper too!


----------



## vld

Thanks!
It's a Middle Atlantic Essex 4224 rack. I would have liked a rack that's a little deeper, but the closet that the rack is in wouldn't accommodate a deeper one without having issues accessing the rear. The biggest issue was sourcing a sliding shelf for the turntable that could fit a 24" deep rack.


----------



## anjunadeep

vld said:


> Thanks!
> It's a Middle Atlantic Essex 4224 rack. I would have liked a rack that's a little deeper, but the closet that the rack is in wouldn't accommodate a deeper one without having issues accessing the rear. The biggest issue was sourcing a sliding shelf for the turntable that could fit a 24" deep rack.


Nice. Who cut the faceplates for the Outlaws for you? Middle Atlantic?


----------



## vld

Middle Atlantic has most faceplates templates in stock, they cut faceplates for everything in my rack other than the turntable of course. If they don't have the 'pattern' in their system, you can send your equipment to them for precise cuts.

That being said, all of the faceplates from Middle Atlantic fit perfectly, except for the Outlaw 7700s. The opening was just about 4mm too high. After going back and forth with MA a for a few attempts in adjusting, they sent a pair of faceplates that were correct at the top, but hadn't adjusted the bottom of the opening lower as needed. At that point, I did a lot of measurements, set up a jig and adjusted the bottom of the opening to be correct.

Oh, and the little 1U 'accessory' shelf above the turntable, I cut myself from an extra 1U blank.


----------



## dwander

A good amount of changes and updates to the rack. Also, next to the rack I got a new desk that has built in rack bays. Pretty happy with the desk.


----------



## pschreiber68




----------



## HighModulus

Yes, yes XLR connections would be sexier. But that is the one drawback to the parasound amps. Otherwise, very cool when they power up in rapid fire. There is a fraction of a second between each amp. So they go top to bottom...click...click...click...click...etc. Not loud. But oddly satisfying, and nothing audible in the theater.


----------



## KAYCEE2000

Mine is sitting in a closet connected to my room.


----------



## A97syclone

Are any of these racks on the second floor of your home? I will be doing a theater in my upstairs loft and I'm worried about stressing the floor with a rack full of heavy amps. I'm curious if I need to beef up the floor or anything?


----------



## KAYCEE2000

A97syclone said:


> Are any of these racks on the second floor of your home? I will be doing a theater in my upstairs loft and I'm worried about stressing the floor with a rack full of heavy amps. I'm curious if I need to beef up the floor or anything?


mine is


----------



## KAYCEE2000

i dont think you need to worry about it.


----------



## ultimatehomecinema




----------



## squared80

A97syclone said:


> I'm worried about stressing the floor with a rack full of heavy amps. I'm curious if I need to beef up the floor or anything?


No. Stop worrying.


----------



## JamesVG81

Had to take everything out of my rack last week due to getting a new heat pump put in.. Went all out on making the wires look nice.


----------



## Pilotpod

Finally added my last Major component. The Niagara 5000. Next will be adding some Less appealing and hidden Fans that just sit on top of the Amps and processor that won’t kill my wallet. “Havit” laptop fans work great and can be daisy chained together. I’m told the 5000 runs cool so will find out if that’s true.
A little tidying up and a few new cables and she will look pretty in the back too.


----------



## Limp Fox

Hello everyone. I recently moved into a new home and need a new rack. Our previous home had a 42u 2-post rack built into the wall. We plan to put the new rack in a dedicated closet under the stairs. The closet is plenty big at about 7L X 3W. I was thinking about calling Audio Advice or Dream Media to purchase a rack but wanted to get opinions first. We no longer need a 42u rack since we're moving all of our gaming consoles and most of our streaming devices to the second floor. An ATV 4K will stay. I figured a 24-30u rack should work fine for the following components with spacing between the amps for room and expansion. 

Panamax 5400 PM 
TP Switch (need to purchase)
Marantz 8805A
Emotiva XPA 100 x 2
Emotiva XPA 5
Emotiva XPA 7 (thinking of purchasing this since I need more amplification)

Let me know which rack you recommend. I believe if I call any one of the two companies above, they will offer the FS Strong and Middle Atlantic racks.

Thanks in advance. 

-Judd


----------



## frankwp

HighModulus said:


> Yes, yes XLR connections would be sexier. But that is the one drawback to the parasound amps. Otherwise, very cool when they power up in rapid fire. There is a fraction of a second between each amp. So they go top to bottom...click...click...click...click...etc. Not loud. But oddly satisfying, and nothing audible in the theater.
> 
> View attachment 3213764
> 
> 
> View attachment 3213766


I'd set my chair in front of the rack and just turn things on and off, on and off, on and off...


----------



## bartl007

Limp Fox said:


> Hello everyone. I recently moved into a new home and need a new rack. Our previous home had a 42u 2-post rack built into the wall. We plan to put the new rack in a dedicated closet under the stairs. The closet is plenty big at about 7L X 3W. I was thinking about calling Audio Advice or Dream Media to purchase a rack but wanted to get opinions first. We no longer need a 42u rack since we're moving all of our gaming consoles and most of our streaming devices to the second floor. An ATV 4K will stay. I figured a 24-30u rack should work fine for the following components with spacing between the amps for room and expansion.
> 
> Panamax 5400 PM
> TP Switch (need to purchase)
> Marantz 8805A
> Emotiva XPA 100 x 2
> Emotiva XPA 5
> Emotiva XPA 7 (thinking of purchasing this since I need more amplification)
> 
> Let me know which rack you recommend. I believe if I call any one of the two companies above, they will offer the FS Strong and Middle Atlantic racks.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -Judd


I have the 42u version of this rack (very high quality) and while it's not as much of a fire sale as it used to be, still a good deal, shipped straight to your doorstep:



Amazon.com


----------



## Kevin4730

Limp Fox said:


> Hello everyone. I recently moved into a new home and need a new rack. Our previous home had a 42u 2-post rack built into the wall. We plan to put the new rack in a dedicated closet under the stairs. The closet is plenty big at about 7L X 3W. I was thinking about calling Audio Advice or Dream Media to purchase a rack but wanted to get opinions first. We no longer need a 42u rack since we're moving all of our gaming consoles and most of our streaming devices to the second floor. An ATV 4K will stay. I figured a 24-30u rack should work fine for the following components with spacing between the amps for room and expansion.
> 
> Panamax 5400 PM
> TP Switch (need to purchase)
> Marantz 8805A
> Emotiva XPA 100 x 2
> Emotiva XPA 5
> Emotiva XPA 7 (thinking of purchasing this since I need more amplification)
> 
> Let me know which rack you recommend. I believe if I call any one of the two companies above, they will offer the FS Strong and Middle Atlantic racks.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -Judd


I have an MA AXS slide out rack under my stairs. It does the trick for a tight spot like that if you don’t have rear access


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Limp Fox

bartl007 said:


> I have the 42u version of this rack (very high quality) and while it's not as much of a fire sale as it used to be, still a good deal, shipped straight to your doorstep:
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com


Thank you for the response. Your theater is awesome btw  Do you have a picture or two of your rack? Amazon shows just one.



Kevin4730 said:


> MA AXS slide out rack


Thank you for the response. You have what I was considering in the past before we cut a hole in the wall for the 2-post. :thumbup


----------



## bartl007

Limp Fox said:


> Thank you for the response. Your theater is awesome btw  Do you have a picture or two of your rack? Amazon shows just one.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the response. You have what I was considering in the past before we cut a hole in the wall for the 2-post. :thumbup


Thanks, here are a few pics.

It comes with top fans for cooling, on rolling casters for pull out access, preassembled, acrylic "smoked glass" front door, and all side/back panels are removable with quick release latches. All side and rear panels are perforated for good airflow and there are bifold doors on the rear.

The link above is for the 31" depth which should help in having plenty of space for cable management, I have the 23" depth and it can be a little tight depending on the size/depth of some of your components (large pro amps in my case)


----------



## Valencia Theater Seating




----------



## Kevin4730

Work in progress. Basically the entire rack needed to be shifted in some way besides the bottom matrix amp to make way for the outlaws. 











Looking for advice! What do y’all do with the “odds and ends”? If you notice the shelf with the NAS and switch, behind that hiding are HDMI baluns, POE adapters, wall wart adapters, router/modem, mini dsp, shield. It’s like my junk drawer of rack shelves. Any tricks to tidying this up? I’m thinking just more shelf attached on the back posts to spread out the stuff

Hears a glimpse at the work ahead of me to re-organize. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dwander

Kevin4730 said:


> Work in progress. Basically the entire rack needed to be shifted in some way besides the bottom matrix amp to make way for the outlaws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for advice! What do y’all do with the “odds and ends”? If you notice the shelf with the NAS and switch, behind that hiding are HDMI baluns, POE adapters, wall wart adapters, router/modem, mini dsp, shield. It’s like my junk drawer of rack shelves. Any tricks to tidying this up? I’m thinking just more shelf attached on the back posts to spread out the stuff
> 
> Hears a glimpse at the work ahead of me to re-organize.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Rack looks awesome! Cleaning up the back is just a matter of careful routing, avoiding unnecessarily long cables, and plenty o’ cable ties. 

I actually find rack cable management to be harder than it looks. I’m always impressed with people who can do pro level work.


----------



## Kevin4730

dwander said:


> Rack looks awesome! Cleaning up the back is just a matter of careful routing, avoiding unnecessarily long cables, and plenty o’ cable ties.


Thanks! Yeah, it’s a 26” deep rack. So, I’m thinking plenty of space to add a vented rack shelf from the opposite side and use the vent slots to loop cable ties and secure the power packs and small pieces of gear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaminkid

Under the stairs. 
Two Sanus CFR1620s stacked on casters


----------



## justeric78

dupe


----------



## justeric78




----------



## anjunadeep

dwander said:


> Rack looks awesome! Cleaning up the back is just a matter of careful routing, avoiding unnecessarily long cables, and plenty o’ cable ties.
> 
> I actually find rack cable management to be harder than it looks. I’m always impressed with people who can do pro level work.


Yeah, wire management is a skill. That said, I've moved away from trying to make things perfect and instead focus on a balance of making it easy to work on and clean... For example, I'm done with plastic wire ties and have moved to velcro instead. Doesn't look as nice, but when you have to move something you don't end up cutting your hands and needing to use sharp tools next to your cables. You can get these rolls where you cut the velcro to size. There are a bunch of off brand ones too that work just as well.









Buy VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap® Tie Rolls Online


Shop reusable VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap ties available in rolls for bigger projects. These fasteners help you organize wires and cables both indoors and outside.




www.velcro.com





I used to try to make my racks look like something out of a magazine, but then anytime I needed to move or change a cable I dreaded working on it.


----------



## dwander

anjunadeep said:


> Yeah, wire management is a skill. That said, I've moved away from trying to make things perfect and instead focus on a balance of making it easy to work on and clean... For example, I'm done with plastic wire ties and have moved to velcro instead. Doesn't look as nice, but when you have to move something you don't end up cutting your hands and needing to use sharp tools next to your cables. You can get these rolls where you cut the velcro to size. There are a bunch of off brand ones too that work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap® Tie Rolls Online
> 
> 
> Shop reusable VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap ties available in rolls for bigger projects. These fasteners help you organize wires and cables both indoors and outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.velcro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to try to make my racks look like something out of a magazine, but then anytime I needed to move or change a cable I dreaded working on it.


I definitely agree. There have definitely been a number of times where my cable management made it harder on me to make changes to the rack. The velcro does make it easier though.


----------



## ChezWhiz

justeric78 said:


> View attachment 3314517
> View attachment 3314518
> View attachment 3314519
> View attachment 3314521
> 
> 
> Looks great! What are those horizontal cable raceways behind the Furman, router….etc.? Those look really clean!


----------



## justeric78

Thanks, those you can find here. They were pretty nice to work with although it can be fun putting that front plate back on as you have to push the teeth down all at once.

Edit: In fact buying a few more for the amps after looking at them again. The speaker wire coming in is the weakest part of the build and have been on the fence redoing it anyway so going to get that done. 









Amazon.com: Jingchengmei 2 Pack of All Metal 1U Cable Management Horizontal Rack Mount Cable Manager with 12 Big Finger Slots for 19-inch Server Rack or Cabinet : Electronics


Buy Jingchengmei 2 Pack of All Metal 1U Cable Management Horizontal Rack Mount Cable Manager with 12 Big Finger Slots for 19-inch Server Rack or Cabinet: Cable Raceways - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



smile.amazon.com


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## Kevin4730

anjunadeep said:


> For example, I'm done with plastic wire ties and have moved to velcro instead.


I’m probably going against all things cable management here, but these are the only zip ties in my rack, rest is Velcro. Best solution I had to organize all the small stuff keeping things running. Zip ties seemed like the better option here since it secured everything in tighter. 









Hope I’m not banned from the thread for this many zip ties in the same pic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dwander

Kevin4730 said:


> I’m probably going against all things cable management here, but these are the only zip ties in my rack, rest is Velcro. Best solution I had to organize all the small stuff keeping things running. Zip ties seemed like the better option here since it secured everything in tighter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I’m not banned from the thread for this many zip ties in the same pic
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think that looks pretty good. The power bricks and small wires are probably the weakest part of my cable management.


----------



## anjunadeep

Kevin4730 said:


> I’m probably going against all things cable management here, but these are the only zip ties in my rack, rest is Velcro. Best solution I had to organize all the small stuff keeping things running. Zip ties seemed like the better option here since it secured everything in tighter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I’m not banned from the thread for this many zip ties in the same pic
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks good to me. Where the plastic zip ties become a nightmare is when they're every 6" down an umbilical of cables and all the sudden you need to add one more wire to it so you end up cutting all of them (firing off the small end into lord knows where) and making a mess. A beautiful rack that is likely never going to be touched again that's probably fine, but almost everyone here is constantly upgrading and tinkering or troubleshooting something so having those zip ties is horrible. But zip ties around a big powerbrick or something isn't a big deal (although I'd still velcro it)


----------



## curtisG

Haven't posted pics of my room in a long time, but my slide-out rack has always been a thorn in my side, despite several past attempts. To prove my point, here are some before pics:










Looks okay from the front, the back is another thing


----------



## curtisG

After being called out by @BIGmouthinDC and @CallingMrBenzo , I decided to finally do it right. After an entire weekend, here is my new rack:


----------



## frankwp

Kevin4730 said:


> I’m probably going against all things cable management here, but these are the only zip ties in my rack, rest is Velcro. Best solution I had to organize all the small stuff keeping things running. Zip ties seemed like the better option here since it secured everything in tighter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I’m not banned from the thread for this many zip ties in the same pic
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Switch those white ties out for black.


----------



## Kevin4730

frankwp said:


> Switch those white ties out for black.


Planning on it. I had the white ones laying around. At least everything’s secure now and I can swap once I run to the store


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AuburnM5




----------



## Audionut74

Not all of it
is in a "Rack" but close enough


----------



## emotiva_ht

Hey all,
Still trying to get some better photos but this is what i'm working on at the moment (3 different designs but same equipment)


----------



## anjunadeep

emotiva_ht said:


> Hey all,
> Still trying to get some better photos but this is what i'm working on at the moment (3 different designs but same equipment)
> View attachment 3323006
> 
> 
> View attachment 3323008


What's the screen?! Very cool. Are you laying the rack out in an image editor something specifically for racks?


----------



## kevin g.

anjunadeep said:


> What's the screen?! Very cool. Are you laying the rack out in an image editor something specifically for racks?


I am interested as well...not that size, but how it's mounted. I have a couple extra screens that I could re-purpose, I've seen some mounts for racks, but not looked in to them much.


----------



## emotiva_ht

anjunadeep said:


> What's the screen?! Very cool. Are you laying the rack out in an image editor something specifically for racks?


Thanks very much. Believe it or not I did them in SweetHome3d which is a 3d program. I got measurements for a 1RU blanking plates, amps and pc. I also got pictures of the amps online and designed it all.



kevin g. said:


> I am interested as well...not that size, but how it's mounted. I have a couple extra screens that I could re-purpose, I've seen some mounts for racks, but not looked in to them much.


Oh totally a great idea. I had a 18.5" screen and believe it or not I combined 2 parts. Normally you should only need one part which is this Startech product. It would work great for portrait as long as screen fits within the width of the internal part of the rack.
Since my 32" screen vesa mount was offset vertically (and subsequently horizontally when it was turned 90 degrees), i needed to use a vesa slide bracket which allowed me to dial the position of the screen perfectly.









Rack Cabinet LCD Monitor Mount Bracket - Rack Shelves | Server Rack Accessories | StarTech.com Australia


Universal VESA LCD Monitor Mounting Bracket for Rack / Cabinet | Australia




www.startech.com













Adaptor needed to allow movement of the screen:


----------



## Mondo Rock

emotiva_ht said:


> Adaptor needed to allow movement of the screen:
> View attachment 3324286


Which VIVO mount is this adaptor? Product link? Thx!


----------



## dwander

Posting again. Some recent changes. Nothing major, but some new AV gear, some new custom rack panels and fans, and a bunch of new network gear.


----------



## ivallt

Do most people buy 24-26" deep AV racks or 20"?

Is it recommended to do an enclosed rack with sides, front door and back for chimney effect cooling? - In my case it will be located within a closet, with an exhaust fan out of the top of the closet. I will also want to add AC infinity fans on amps and processors. How do the AC infinity fans draw in air in the the front if the door is closed?

What brands do people use that are not more than $1,400 that will fit a 24"W space at 35U height

Is it worth it to go prebuilt that includes a bunch of racks and plates, or go custom?


----------



## anjunadeep

ivallt said:


> Do most people buy 24-26" deep AV racks or 20"?
> 
> Is it recommended to do an enclosed rack with sides, front door and back for chimney effect cooling? - In my case it will be located within a closet, with an exhaust fan out of the top of the closet. I will also want to add AC infinity fans on amps and processors. How do the AC infinity fans draw in air in the the front if the door is closed?
> 
> What brands do people use that are not more than $1,400 that will fit a 24"W space at 35U height
> 
> Is it worth it to go prebuilt that includes a bunch of racks and plates, or go custom?


My rack is 32" deep. I like the depth because it allows me to have some short rear shelves for things like my MiniDSP and use the rear rails for some power management. I recommend as deep as you can fit within reason. I like those power strips on the back side, with 0U strip up one side and then 1u strips where needed. Then you just have a little jumper IEC plug to get power to each thing.. super slick.

It's good you have an exhaust fan, but do you have a cool air intake fan to the closet? Really you'll want a fan low to take in cool air and then an exhaust fan at the top of the closet to exhaust the hot air. The fans in the rack help move some air around but if you don't have a supply of cool air going in there, all they'll do is recirculate hot air. I like ducting some HVAC into the closet with a flexible duct that runs down the wall and lays on the floor (so the cool air goes out there), and then ALSO having a low intake fan. That combination is the best.

In my experience, the chimney effect works well in server racks that exhaust up into a cold room, but inside of closets generally the elephant in the room is getting cold air in and hot air out. Half the time I see racks in closets the door has to be left open. In a closet rack I would put no front door, no side doors, and no back door...but get casters to make it easy to pull out and leave your wire lengths long to make that easy to do. That also makes nearly everything affordable. Don't get a track style rack, those are annoying, just get some casters so you can pull it out. You can also get a faceplate that has handles on it to make it easier to pull.


----------



## dwander

ivallt said:


> Do most people buy 24-26" deep AV racks or 20"?
> 
> Is it recommended to do an enclosed rack with sides, front door and back for chimney effect cooling? - In my case it will be located within a closet, with an exhaust fan out of the top of the closet. I will also want to add AC infinity fans on amps and processors. How do the AC infinity fans draw in air in the the front if the door is closed?
> 
> What brands do people use that are not more than $1,400 that will fit a 24"W space at 35U height
> 
> Is it worth it to go prebuilt that includes a bunch of racks and plates, or go custom?
> View attachment 3334556


I’ve got a 24” depth rack and it’s plenty of space for cable management and a few pieces that are a bit long. 

Heat management can be tricky but it doesn’t look like you have anything that creates a ton of heat. Ideally you want to exhaust the closet but if you can’t then pulling air out of the processor and amps should help those pieces. My rack backs into my room into the area behind my screen. I’ve got a few pieces that generate heat so I try to exhaust as much as I can to keep the room cool. It’s a bit of a struggle. If my rack was in a closet I don’t think I would be as concerned with it.


----------



## ivallt

anjunadeep said:


> My rack is 32" deep. I like the depth because it allows me to have some short rear shelves for things like my MiniDSP and use the rear rails for some power management. I recommend as deep as you can fit within reason. I like those power strips on the back side, with 0U strip up one side and then 1u strips where needed. Then you just have a little jumper IEC plug to get power to each thing.. super slick.
> 
> It's good you have an exhaust fan, but do you have a cool air intake fan to the closet? Really you'll want a fan low to take in cool air and then an exhaust fan at the top of the closet to exhaust the hot air. The fans in the rack help move some air around but if you don't have a supply of cool air going in there, all they'll do is recirculate hot air. I like ducting some HVAC into the closet with a flexible duct that runs down the wall and lays on the floor (so the cool air goes out there), and then ALSO having a low intake fan. That combination is the best.
> 
> In my experience, the chimney effect works well in server racks that exhaust up into a cold room, but inside of closets generally the elephant in the room is getting cold air in and hot air out. Half the time I see racks in closets the door has to be left open. In a closet rack I would put no front door, no side doors, and no back door...but get casters to make it easy to pull out and leave your wire lengths long to make that easy to do. That also makes nearly everything affordable. Don't get a track style rack, those are annoying, just get some casters so you can pull it out. You can also get a faceplate that has handles on it to make it easier to pull.


DEEP for sure...sounds like 24" for me over 20" for sure. I can fit up to 26". 

I will add ACinfinity Cloudplate T5 fans to pull air through Processor and each Amp and exhaust to back of rack area.

I think i could do an ACInfinity inline fan with 6" duct, and put a hood over top of rack vents and directly vent out of closet through the upper wall to the adjacent laundry room. I would have the inline fan in the laundry room to pull air that way and keep noise lower. That way all cold air gets pulled through bottom of rack and out top, and not just blowing around inside of closet. The gap under the door is 3/4"-1" so there should be breathing room with negative pressure pulling air in. I would also try to add a ACInfinity T7-N in 2U size to pull cool air into bottom of rack.

Definitely cant keep my door open as its just to the right of my screen!

When i do a 35U rack CFM calculation, AC infinity suggest around 50CFM, which isnt too big of a fan. I may bump it up to one that can do 100CFM at max setting.
Thanks for the suggestions everyone


----------



## ivallt

Does anyone know if the Middle Atlantic RCS series prebuilt racks have these almost solid looking shelves? Seems very light on the airflow if its only these three rows of minimal punchouts in the back!
Anybody got pictures of theirs?
Makes me lean towards the prebuilt Strong AV FS series instead for about $1500 for 35U rack.


----------



## dwander

ivallt said:


> Does anyone know if the Middle Atlantic RCS series prebuilt racks have these almost solid looking shelves? Seems very light on the airflow if its only these three rows of minimal punchouts in the back!
> Anybody got pictures of theirs?
> Makes me lean towards the prebuilt Strong AV FS series instead for about $1500 for 35U rack.


Its hard to tell from this rendering but it looks very similar to the Strong FS Rack I have. On top there are two vented punch outs for rack roof fans, and a knockout for cable feeds. I dont remember how many shelves came with my 42U rack but it was similar. It comes with equal rack shelfs and blanking panels which is what the picture shows. Under each shelf is a blanking panel which is what makes the shelves look more solid in the picture. In regards to the back panel, I would have to check bc I don't use mine and its packed away in a closet. However, I think its normal for it to be mostly solid to help pull the air in one direction. I was never sure about the best practices though. I feel like it would be dependent on the conditions of the rack location. If its in a tight closet then maybe its best to leave all panels on so the air flows one way and you can easily control it and exhaust it. In a bigger space maybe its better leave the panels off and let it breathe a bit. I'm just speculating though. Anyway, I don't think you could go wrong either way between Strong and Middle Atlantic.


----------



## ivallt

Whats the difference between a Middle Atlantic RCS vs iRCS rack. Something to do with international i believe but what changes?


----------



## ivallt

Anybody know of a place that sells this top rack exhaust shroud like Tripp-lite, but that dont cost a fortune? I want to exhaust the two 120mm fans from the top out into a single vent to another room without exhausting hot rack air into the closet i am in.











https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Exhaust-Cooling-SRCOOL7KDUCT/dp/B019SXSKGK/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1WW3JUW0KQ6DJ&keywords=rack+vent+duct&qid=1665599474&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjkzIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=rack+vent+duct%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-9&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb


.


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## avs.phil

Can probably make your own with hardboard/fiberboard from home depot and that circle thing from another aisle.


----------



## NuSoardGraphite

Sweet Jesus these things are expensive!

I was looking for a rack capable of holding about 8 slimline amps (the class D Crown amps) but everything was at least $1000.

I might just stick to component shelves for about $200 to $300 each and buy two of them.

Need enough space for 8 Crown amps, a Denon X6700H, a Panasonic Blu Ray player, probably a couple of Power conditioners and a Playstation 5. Maybe space for a NAS as well. Not sure yet.


----------



## anjunadeep

NuSoardGraphite said:


> Sweet Jesus these things are expensive!
> 
> I was looking for a rack capable of holding about 8 slimline amps (the class D Crown amps) but everything was at least $1000.
> 
> I might just stick to component shelves for about $200 to $300 each and buy two of them.
> 
> Need enough space for 8 Crown amps, a Denon X6700H, a Panasonic Blu Ray player, probably a couple of Power conditioners and a Playstation 5. Maybe space for a NAS as well. Not sure yet.


They're expensive but if you buy a good rack it lasts a lifetime. I've had my Middle Atlantic WRK rack since 2006 and it's just as sturdy as when I bought it. I've thrown away more wood component shelve systems than I care to admit, they eventually fall apart, they don't move well, not to mention the headache of trying to wire stuff in them. For 400 bucks more you can have something that will wire up cleanly and last ages.


----------



## kevin g.

NuSoardGraphite said:


> Sweet Jesus these things are expensive!
> 
> I was looking for a rack capable of holding about 8 slimline amps (the class D Crown amps) but everything was at least $1000.
> 
> I might just stick to component shelves for about $200 to $300 each and buy two of them.
> 
> Need enough space for 8 Crown amps, a Denon X6700H, a Panasonic Blu Ray player, probably a couple of Power conditioners and a Playstation 5. Maybe space for a NAS as well. Not sure yet.





anjunadeep said:


> They're expensive but if you buy a good rack it lasts a lifetime. I've had my Middle Atlantic WRK rack since 2006 and it's just as sturdy as when I bought it. I've thrown away more wood component shelve systems than I care to admit, they eventually fall apart, they don't move well, not to mention the headache of trying to wire stuff in them. For 400 bucks more you can have something that will wire up cleanly and last ages.


Or search your local Craigslist, OfferUP, Facebook Marketplace...

I spent a decent amount of time searching off and on over a couple years, and found a very lightly (if ever) used ERK on my local Craigslist for $125. I could not see any evidence of the screw holes ever being used. 

I found that the shelves, drawers, and blanks were the most expensive part of the build...but a little patient ebaying paid off, and I have significantly less than a grand in to everything. Including cooling, and power.


----------



## bartl007

NuSoardGraphite said:


> Sweet Jesus these things are expensive!
> 
> I was looking for a rack capable of holding about 8 slimline amps (the class D Crown amps) but everything was at least $1000.
> 
> I might just stick to component shelves for about $200 to $300 each and buy two of them.
> 
> Need enough space for 8 Crown amps, a Denon X6700H, a Panasonic Blu Ray player, probably a couple of Power conditioners and a Playstation 5. Maybe space for a NAS as well. Not sure yet.


Keep an eye on the first link in this thread. If you have some extra height to spare in your gear room, 45u rack currently available for ~80% of the price you mentioned, with free freight shipping, prices and inventory tend to fluctuate quite a bit:









Ridiculous deal on AV racks


Ridiculous deal on AV racks through Amazon- assembled and free shipping Just thought I'd share this amazing deal on AV racks, lots of sizes available with FREE shipping (a big deal for a 200lb equipment rack) The following model series includes an acrylic front door, side and rear panels, 2...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## sound dropouts

Here is mine. Its small, but packs quite a lot; I've used the back of the rack for modem, router, and shelves.


----------



## highgrove manor

While the flush mount, mega high industrial steel designs shown with tons of professional U mounting space is awesome, does anyone have a more WAF friendly simple stand alone unit to brag about? I am install constrained - as in no faux wall or back room access to hide the dirty bits, so simply want an old-school single width rack with good ventilation but without the hard core server-room look.


----------



## squared80

I have a dedicated alcove for my 42U rack. It has casters and will be on plush carpet. Will it be a problem to roll this thing in and out of the alcove to access the rear, and if so, does anyone have any tips or tricks when moving a rack on carpet?


----------



## warwwolf7

squared80 said:


> I have a dedicated alcove for my 42U rack. It has casters and will be on plush carpet. Will it be a problem to roll this thing in and out of the alcove to access the rear, and if so, does anyone have any tips or tricks when moving a rack on carpet?


How big are your casters? The bigger they are the easier it will be to push the rack. If plush carpet is like what I have seen on Google, then it might still be a challenge.

I have 2,5" good quality caster under my table saw. The assembly weights around 150-200pounds and move easily on floor. How much will your rack weight with all your equipment in 300pounds?

I would say with 3" or 4" quality caster it could be doable.


I did pushed very heavy flight cases on hotel carpet in the past. Most of Those carpets are very thin, but I remember one hotel had a slightly thicker carpet. Those 4" caster on 500-600pounds case weren't easy to move. However, they were pushable by a single man.

If you go the caster route, buy good quality caster 3 or 4". Don't buy cheap caster.


----------



## bartl007

squared80 said:


> I have a dedicated alcove for my 42U rack. It has casters and will be on plush carpet. Will it be a problem to roll this thing in and out of the alcove to access the rear, and if so, does anyone have any tips or tricks when moving a rack on carpet?


Could consider using an office chair mat and cutting it to the size you need to slide the rack in and out?. I think my 42u rack was like 150-200lbs empty. I'm guessing it weighs closer to 500 lbs now loaded up. I wouldn't trust it to move over carpet with the factory casters.


----------



## flyers10

Will be using a panamax m5300-pm to plug things into. I see on Middle Atlantic's site they have these power strips with like 10,12,16,20 outlets and mounted vertically on the back rail. Are many using a strip like this and then I assume plug that into the Panamax surge unit? Or is it not necessary to use one and just plug everything into the Panamax?


----------



## bartl007

flyers10 said:


> Will be using a panamax m5300-pm to plug things into. I see on Middle Atlantic's site they have these power strips with like 10,12,16,20 outlets and mounted vertically on the back rail. Are many using a strip like this and then I assume plug that into the Panamax surge unit? Or is it not necessary to use one and just plug everything into the Panamax?


I use the Middle Atlantic PD-2420SC-NS mounted on the back of my rack to plug everything into and like you mentioned that is plugged into my furman power conditioner. It helps with some of my components that have short power cords and provides space for wall warts and other odds and ends for better cable management. Can be found for much less than MSRP if you shop around.


----------



## towercontrol

flyers10 said:


> Will be using a panamax m5300-pm to plug things into. I see on Middle Atlantic's site they have these power strips with like 10,12,16,20 outlets and mounted vertically on the back rail. Are many using a strip like this and then I assume plug that into the Panamax surge unit? Or is it not necessary to use one and just plug everything into the Panamax?


I use exactly what your talking about. For me it was about not over thinking it. Mine is construction grade. But exactly that, a 4 foot long power bar that than is fed into the conditioners. Works great. I also utilize UPS systems and 3 conditioners. It's not as a complicated system as it used to be. As components have thinned. But yes. Use a large strip. They come in different lengths. Up to 7 feet I've seen. And anywhere from 5 or so to 20 plugs.


----------



## iStorm

Wow. You guys have some awesome racks! We just bought a house with a bonus room and are considering putting our gear in the small closet. It is about 4'x3' with an 8' ceiling. I figured it would be cleaner to use this small closet so that way I won't be annoyed by all of the brights lights. There are currently no outlets in the closet but the attic is on the other side of this bonus room (also right above our garage). I figured before I had an electrician come out and run outlets to the closet, I would ask you guys if this is good idea? My main concern is ventilation. I'm assuming I will probably want a cutout to allow the heat to escape? Could I just cut out a piece of drywall above the 7 foot door frame and place a vent that's not hooked up to our AC system? I also plan to add AC Infinity fans. 

The reason I ask about ventilation above with the door closed is because we only have a few pieces of AV equipment that we use for our 7.2.2 setup. This includes an Nvidia shield, JBL SDP-55 processor, Monoprice 9x amplifier, Harmony Hub, and Panasonic UB-820 4K Player. 

I have a few other questions, since I am a complete newbie at this rack stuff, that I hope you can answer as well. I was looking at the specs of some of the racks like the Sanus ones. Pretty much all of them said they only hold 30-50 pounds per U. Do I need a specific type of U shelf to hold the 100lb Monoprice amp? Also, I would like to expand down the road so I'm considering getting something a bit bigger than I need, do you have any recommendations on a rack that will be user friendly and good quality? It appears like right now I would at least need like a 10U? The processor and amp probably take up 4Us a piece and the other stuff probably 1U. I have surge protectors from Brickwall but they will probably go on the floor, unless there is a way to mount them inside the rack. 

I would be really grateful if someone could help me plan this out. It is really overwhelming with all of the rack options. I saw deals on Amazon for rack only for around $400 but it was for like 45U and I definitely don't need anything that big lol. Thanks for any guidance through this stressful process.


----------



## anjunadeep

iStorm said:


> Wow. You guys have some awesome racks! We just bought a house with a bonus room and are considering putting our gear in the small closet. It is about 4'x3' with an 8' ceiling. I figured it would be cleaner to use this small closet so that way I won't be annoyed by all of the brights lights. There are currently no outlets in the closet but the attic is on the other side of this bonus room (also right above our garage). I figured before I had an electrician come out and run outlets to the closet, I would ask you guys if this is good idea? My main concern is ventilation. I'm assuming I will probably want a cutout to allow the heat to escape? Could I just cut out a piece of drywall above the 7 foot door frame and place a vent that's not hooked up to our AC system? I also plan to add AC Infinity fans.
> 
> The reason I ask about ventilation above with the door closed is because we only have a few pieces of AV equipment that we use for our 7.2.2 setup. This includes an Nvidia shield, JBL SDP-55 processor, Monoprice 9x amplifier, Harmony Hub, and Panasonic UB-820 4K Player.
> 
> I have a few other questions, since I am a complete newbie at this rack stuff, that I hope you can answer as well. I was looking at the specs of some of the racks like the Sanus ones. Pretty much all of them said they only hold 30-50 pounds per U. Do I need a specific type of U shelf to hold the 100lb Monoprice amp? Also, I would like to expand down the road so I'm considering getting something a bit bigger than I need, do you have any recommendations on a rack that will be user friendly and good quality? It appears like right now I would at least need like a 10U? The processor and amp probably take up 4Us a piece and the other stuff probably 1U. I have surge protectors from Brickwall but they will probably go on the floor, unless there is a way to mount them inside the rack.
> 
> I would be really grateful if someone could help me plan this out. It is really overwhelming with all of the rack options. I saw deals on Amazon for rack only for around $400 but it was for like 45U and I definitely don't need anything that big lol. Thanks for any guidance through this stressful process.


You are correct to be worried about ventilation. Dead vents with (large) fans seems to work best, ideally vent it outside of the theater. You want an intake dead vent at the bottom and an exhaust at the top. Piping some AC to the floor of the closet with a return dead vent on top helps too but in the winter when the AC isn't being used then it stops helping. Probably sounds like overkill but you'll be really surprised how much heat that stuff makes in an enclosed area, a lot of people do rack closets and they're forced to keep the door open all the time because they can't keep it cool.

As far as racks, I have a Middle Atlantic (WRK) but Strong is a good. I'd get a tall rack, you have the vertical space anyways. Then you have room to expand. Get at least a 5ft rack even if you think you're only going to use a bit of it to start. Over time you might find yourself getting network attached storage, a control system, more sources, another amp, a UPS system, etc.... those Us add up. Like already in your equipment list I'd expect you to add a rack mount UPS and a rack mount network switch just for power + network connectivity to the stuff in the closet.


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## iStorm

anjunadeep said:


> You are correct to be worried about ventilation. Dead vents with (large) fans seems to work best, ideally vent it outside of the theater. You want an intake dead vent at the bottom and an exhaust at the top. Piping some AC to the floor of the closet with a return dead vent on top helps too but in the winter when the AC isn't being used then it stops helping. Probably sounds like overkill but you'll be really surprised how much heat that stuff makes in an enclosed area, a lot of people do rack closets and they're forced to keep the door open all the time because they can't keep it cool.
> 
> As far as racks, I have a Middle Atlantic (WRK) but Strong is a good. I'd get a tall rack, you have the vertical space anyways. Then you have room to expand. Get at least a 5ft rack even if you think you're only going to use a bit of it to start. Over time you might find yourself getting network attached storage, a control system, more sources, another amp, a UPS system, etc.... those Us add up. Like already in your equipment list I'd expect you to add a rack mount UPS and a rack mount network switch just for power + network connectivity to the stuff in the closet.


Thanks so much for your thorough reply! It sounds like maybe since we have a pretty good sized bonus room (22x17), perhaps it would be easier to just place the rack inside the room? I'm afraid of the ventilation in the closet and I do not want to modify this house too much. For instance, it sounds like I would have to cut holes in the closet door and ceiling to do the intake and exhaust setup. I was just hoping to cut out a hole for a vent above the door frame, in the drywall and hopefully the AC infinity fans on the rack would exhaust it out. Also, if I have the rack inside the actual room, either in the side corner or back corner, my remote will have line of sight at all times, plus I won't have to worry about ventilation. Since the closet is on the other side of the attic, I would probably have to vent it into there and that may open up more heat issues. Thoughts?

Is Strong a brand name or did you mean Sanus? I have had Sanus wall mounts and have been happy with the quality. A bigger rack definitely sounds like a good option. Should I get the Sanus 55" 27U model or even bigger than that? Also, do these racks come with everything I need for setup or will I need to buy special brackets for my AV equipment? Any idea on the weight they hold? My amp weighs 100 pounds and the Sanus says only up to 50 pounds. Would I want a UPS on top of a whole house surge protector and the Brickwall protector? I have a UPS for my computer but figured I didn't need one for home theater. Finally, in order to do the network switch, I would need to run CAT upstairs into this bonus room from my router downstairs, right? Thank you!


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## anjunadeep

iStorm said:


> Thanks so much for your thorough reply! It sounds like maybe since we have a pretty good sized bonus room (22x17), perhaps it would be easier to just place the rack inside the room? I'm afraid of the ventilation in the closet and I do not want to modify this house too much. For instance, it sounds like I would have to cut holes in the closet door and ceiling to do the intake and exhaust setup. I was just hoping to cut out a hole for a vent above the door frame, in the drywall and hopefully the AC infinity fans on the rack would exhaust it out. Also, if I have the rack inside the actual room, either in the side corner or back corner, my remote will have line of sight at all times, plus I won't have to worry about ventilation. Since the closet is on the other side of the attic, I would probably have to vent it into there and that may open up more heat issues. Thoughts?
> 
> Is Strong a brand name or did you mean Sanus? I have had Sanus wall mounts and have been happy with the quality. A bigger rack definitely sounds like a good option. Should I get the Sanus 55" 27U model or even bigger than that? Also, do these racks come with everything I need for setup or will I need to buy special brackets for my AV equipment? Any idea on the weight they hold? My amp weighs 100 pounds and the Sanus says only up to 50 pounds. Would I want a UPS on top of a whole house surge protector and the Brickwall protector? I have a UPS for my computer but figured I didn't need one for home theater. Finally, in order to do the network switch, I would need to run CAT upstairs into this bonus room from my router downstairs, right? Thank you!


I personally don't like having my equipment in my room because of the little lights (with a projector those really hurt the contrast ratio) and fans (noise). Especially if you add computer gear (network switches have blinky lights and managed ones have fans, NAS hard drives make tons of noise). How much this stuff bothers people is variable though. I see people who keep their gear below their screen on AVSForum and that would drive me nuts. 

I think putting gear in a closet is completely doable, and tends to be my preference, it's just that I think people underestimate how much heat something like a Denon AVR produces in a small enclosed space while watching a movie. Even with a separate amplifier they make a ton of heat. I think just having a plan if you don't have enough cooling is the way to go. You do need a way to get fresh air in and out though, exhaust alone doesn't cut it in my experience.

I know a lot of people are skeptical of cutting holes in walls and stuff, but I find drywall to be one of the easiest repairs possible. I mean if you go to sell the house and want to close up a hole it's not a big deal, and truth is if someone was looking at your house they'd probably not even notice the dead vents. You start closing in windows or something for a home theater THEN it is a resale issue, but some vents in drywall? nah.

As far as line of sight, I just use an IR repeater. Sewell has nice ones, SnapAV has them, probably a lot of other options. You plop it in the front of your room and then have the blaster in the rack.

Strong is the SnapOne brand for racks, Sanus probably has good stuff now too. Maybe someone else can chime in on what the options are now. I just use Middle Atlantic because that's what I'm used to. It used to be they were kinda the only game in town for a great rack, now there are lots of options. 

27U isn't a huge rack, my attitude with racks is that it doesn't really cost much more or take up any more space to get a bigger one (since it's all vertical space). Like if you put a 27U rack in the closet it takes up just as much as a 35 or 45U one (provided you have the door height). Remember in a closet you'll need casters on the rack to pull it out and also to leave cable lengths appropriately!

Not sure on the weight restriction. I have some pretty heavy (like 85lb+ stuff) screwed into mine. Some really heavy stuff you can use rear rail supports for. The cheap racks maybe you could run into an issue but a well made rack is designed for heavy stuff. I think your Monoprice doesn't have rack ears so you'd buy a rack shelf. You could get one of the rack shelves that connect to the rear and front rails I think. My amps have rack ears so never really delt with that but I have seen some large servers installed that way. The nice thing with racks is there are all kinds of accessories. Once you go to a rack you'll absolutely hate consumer equipment stands and cabinets.

As far as a UPS, I use a UPS in my rack for:
-Projector (which I have an in-wall rated extension cord to)
-NAS
-Switch
-nVidia Shield
-AppleTV
-MiniDSP
-Processor
-Lighting Controller
-..probably some other little things I'm forgetting

Then I use a Surge-X for my amplifiers.

I have whole house surge protection also that my electrician installed and that is wonderful but I also like having some local surge protection. I like the Surge-X stuff for that, even if it's a bit pricy (eBay can find used stuff cheaper).

Yes, for the switch you'd run network cable from your router to your rack, then from the switch in the rack you would hardwire all your devices. Run 2 or 3 just in case.


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## iStorm

anjunadeep said:


> I personally don't like having my equipment in my room because of the little lights (with a projector those really hurt the contrast ratio) and fans (noise). Especially if you add computer gear (network switches have blinky lights and managed ones have fans, NAS hard drives make tons of noise). How much this stuff bothers people is variable though. I see people who keep their gear below their screen on AVSForum and that would drive me nuts.
> 
> I think putting gear in a closet is completely doable, and tends to be my preference, it's just that I think people underestimate how much heat something like a Denon AVR produces in a small enclosed space while watching a movie. Even with a separate amplifier they make a ton of heat. I think just having a plan if you don't have enough cooling is the way to go. You do need a way to get fresh air in and out though, exhaust alone doesn't cut it in my experience.
> 
> I know a lot of people are skeptical of cutting holes in walls and stuff, but I find drywall to be one of the easiest repairs possible. I mean if you go to sell the house and want to close up a hole it's not a big deal, and truth is if someone was looking at your house they'd probably not even notice the dead vents. You start closing in windows or something for a home theater THEN it is a resale issue, but some vents in drywall? nah.
> 
> As far as line of sight, I just use an IR repeater. Sewell has nice ones, SnapAV has them, probably a lot of other options. You plop it in the front of your room and then have the blaster in the rack.
> 
> Strong is the SnapOne brand for racks, Sanus probably has good stuff now too. Maybe someone else can chime in on what the options are now. I just use Middle Atlantic because that's what I'm used to. It used to be they were kinda the only game in town for a great rack, now there are lots of options.
> 
> 27U isn't a huge rack, my attitude with racks is that it doesn't really cost much more or take up any more space to get a bigger one (since it's all vertical space). Like if you put a 27U rack in the closet it takes up just as much as a 35 or 45U one (provided you have the door height). Remember in a closet you'll need casters on the rack to pull it out and also to leave cable lengths appropriately!
> 
> Not sure on the weight restriction. I have some pretty heavy (like 85lb+ stuff) screwed into mine. Some really heavy stuff you can use rear rail supports for. The cheap racks maybe you could run into an issue but a well made rack is designed for heavy stuff. I think your Monoprice doesn't have rack ears so you'd buy a rack shelf. You could get one of the rack shelves that connect to the rear and front rails I think. My amps have rack ears so never really delt with that but I have seen some large servers installed that way. The nice thing with racks is there are all kinds of accessories. Once you go to a rack you'll absolutely hate consumer equipment stands and cabinets.
> 
> As far as a UPS, I use a UPS in my rack for:
> -Projector (which I have an in-wall rated extension cord to)
> -NAS
> -Switch
> -nVidia Shield
> -AppleTV
> -MiniDSP
> -Processor
> -Lighting Controller
> -..probably some other little things I'm forgetting
> 
> Then I use a Surge-X for my amplifiers.
> 
> I have whole house surge protection also that my electrician installed and that is wonderful but I also like having some local surge protection. I like the Surge-X stuff for that, even if it's a bit pricy (eBay can find used stuff cheaper).
> 
> Yes, for the switch you'd run network cable from your router to your rack, then from the switch in the rack you would hardwire all your devices. Run 2 or 3 just in case.


Thanks again for taking the time to reply! I will try to make my response quick and to the point this time. 

If I opt for the closet option, what are you proposing I cut into for the intake and exhaust? Would I cut out the drywall outside of the door, right above it for the exhaust vent? For the intake, would I need to cut out the bottom of the closet door? Is there any examples of others who have done this? As long as it is not too difficult of a project, I may consider this option. Also, would I vent the exhaust out into the attic or just back into my home theater? I have a feeling if I go into the attic, it may make that room really hot by opening the closet into it. 

Another option is that I could leave the closet door cracked, but that's not the most ideal situation because I'll still see lights and it won't look as clean. 

Will I be able to move the big racks with the wheels over carpet to get to the back of the rack? The rack itself is probably going to weigh a bunch and I figured it may tip over. 

Thanks again for your thoughts! This is definitely overwhelming now but like you said, it will be much cleaner and simple to manage when complete.


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## anjunadeep

iStorm said:


> Thanks again for taking the time to reply! I will try to make my response quick and to the point this time.
> 
> If I opt for the closet option, what are you proposing I cut into for the intake and exhaust? Would I cut out the drywall outside of the door, right above it for the exhaust vent? For the intake, would I need to cut out the bottom of the closet door? Is there any examples of others who have done this? As long as it is not too difficult of a project, I may consider this option. Also, would I vent the exhaust out into the attic or just back into my home theater? I have a feeling if I go into the attic, it may make that room really hot by opening the closet into it.
> 
> Another option is that I could leave the closet door cracked, but that's not the most ideal situation because I'll still see lights and it won't look as clean.
> 
> Will I be able to move the big racks with the wheels over carpet to get to the back of the rack? The rack itself is probably going to weigh a bunch and I figured it may tip over.
> 
> Thanks again for your thoughts! This is definitely overwhelming now but like you said, it will be much cleaner and simple to manage when complete.


No problem. I mean without seeing it I'd probably install a louvered door and then cut a good sized exhaust on the top with exhaust fans hidden behind it. That's probably enough. I wouldn't go into the attic. If you're worried about noise from any of your gear then the game changes..

I roll my office rack on carpet. Just make sure the casters are wide. You can also get rack handles that help you pull it out, those are really helpful. As far as tipping, not really an issue unless it's extremely top loaded but generally speaking keep the heavier stuff at the base. The UPS alone is heavy and I always put those at the bottom.


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## iStorm

anjunadeep said:


> No problem. I mean without seeing it I'd probably install a louvered door and then cut a good sized exhaust on the top with exhaust fans hidden behind it. That's probably enough. I wouldn't go into the attic. If you're worried about noise from any of your gear then the game changes..
> 
> I roll my office rack on carpet. Just make sure the casters are wide. You can also get rack handles that help you pull it out, those are really helpful. As far as tipping, not really an issue unless it's extremely top loaded but generally speaking keep the heavier stuff at the base. The UPS alone is heavy and I always put those at the bottom.


Hey there! It looks like our closet door is 27.5" wide x 80". The closet louvered door is 28"x80". I wonder if that would work. Our house was custom built so it might just be a weird size. Also, is it really worth doing the door? It is around $250. Cutting a hole in the drywall above the door we have now wouldn't be enough ventilation? I figured that would be easiest but I'm not an expert on this stuff. 

This closet definitely seems like a lot of work and would still be inside our theater room. We would still hear the noise I'm sure as well. Would it just be easier to either get a rack or stand and put it in a corner that's NOT in the front of our room. My biggest gripe when watching movies is having the gear right in front of our screen by the front towers. It limits placement for the front speakers and distracts you while watching a movie. I figured if I put the rack either in the corner across from our couch or at the back corner, that may be an easier option since we are not handy, lol. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks much!!


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## anjunadeep

iStorm said:


> Hey there! It looks like our closet door is 27.5" wide x 80". The closet louvered door is 28"x80". I wonder if that would work. Our house was custom built so it might just be a weird size. Also, is it really worth doing the door? It is around $250. Cutting a hole in the drywall above the door we have now wouldn't be enough ventilation? I figured that would be easiest but I'm not an expert on this stuff.
> 
> This closet definitely seems like a lot of work and would still be inside our theater room. We would still hear the noise I'm sure as well. Would it just be easier to either get a rack or stand and put it in a corner that's NOT in the front of our room. My biggest gripe when watching movies is having the gear right in front of our screen by the front towers. It limits placement for the front speakers and distracts you while watching a movie. I figured if I put the rack either in the corner across from our couch or at the back corner, that may be an easier option since we are not handy, lol. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks much!!


I'd go in steps. Like try the vent first, then maybe shave the door a bit, then if that doesn't work could different door. Just have the plan is all I'm saying, like what to do if the least doesn't work. Back corner would be my choice for placement if you aren't doing the closet. You could also get a smoked door, in that case, to help with any lights.


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## flyers10

Anyone use vertical lace bars or just tying vertical cabling to the rear rack rail?


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## towercontrol

flyers10 said:


> Anyone use vertical lace bars or just tying vertical cabling to the rear rack rail?



I use both depending on need


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## thrillcat

flyers10 said:


> Anyone use vertical lace bars or just tying vertical cabling to the rear rack rail?


I have some of these that I use to route cables up and down. I have horizontal lacing bars to get cables to the side, then down through these.



https://amzn.to/3VJz1tl


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## flyers10

thrillcat said:


> I have some of these that I use to route cables up and down. I have horizontal lacing bars to get cables to the side, then down through these.
> 
> 
> 
> https://amzn.to/3VJz1tl


Hmm, that might work and be far less that a mid atlantic vertical lace bar.


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## thrillcat

thrillcat said:


> I have some of these that I use to route cables up and down. I have horizontal lacing bars to get cables to the side, then down through these.
> 
> 
> 
> https://amzn.to/3VJz1tl


They work great, but if you're separating right & left, get two packs. I still need to order another package to fill in the larger gaps from top to bottom. Still, huge savings and they work great.


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## towercontrol

flyers10 said:


> Hmm, that might work and be far less that a mid atlantic vertical lace bar.


I've also made my own with wood. The advantage there is you can make them whatever size you need. Obvious the 19" wide. But 4 inch high ot 6 inch high and you can create your own mount points or cable pass throughs on it. Paint it whatever color you want. Generally black. But depending on how you use it. If you multi zone you can paint each one to match a color you have set for a zone. So all red are zone 1. All green zone 2. Kinda thing. All depends on how you use it.


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## RemixMark

flyers10 said:


> Anyone use vertical lace bars or just tying vertical cabling to the rear rack rail?


Yup, I just picked up some inexpensive ones from Amazon and they help keep things somewhat organized along with many, many velcro straps.


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## flyers10

RemixMark said:


> Yup, I just picked up some inexpensive ones from Amazon and they help keep things somewhat organized along with many, many velcro straps.


Have a link by chance?


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## RemixMark

flyers10 said:


> Have a link by chance?





Amazon.com



But really any inexpensive option will work for ya Amazon.com : server rack lacing bar

I went with these velcro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010BZYFKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## thrillcat

RemixMark said:


> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> But really any inexpensive option will work for ya Amazon.com : server rack lacing bar
> 
> I went with these velcro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010BZYFKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These are horizontal lacing bars, he was asking about vertical, right?


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## RemixMark

thrillcat said:


> These are horizontal lacing bars, he was asking about vertical, right?


Ahh, my bad!

I don't see any "vertical" lacing bars on amazon. However, anything on here should do the trick Amazon.com : vertical server rack lacing bar. *Edit* looks like my search terms were just bad. Here's some vertical cable raceway: Amazon.com : vertical cable management. This stuff is more expensive than the horizontal stuff that'd I'd try first and see if you can get the screw holes to line up or just drill new ones so the holes do line up with your rack @flyers10.

I'm a fan of this style: https://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Metal-Horizontal-Manager-Server/dp/B06XYTVQR5/ref=sr_1_7?crid=18UFU7BWXVYUO&keywords=vertical+server+rack+lacing+bar&qid=1670520122&sprefix=verticalserver+rack+lacing+bar,aps,443&sr=8-7 as it keeps the wires in place (if you don't want to use any velcro) and hidden.


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## flyers10

RemixMark said:


> Ahh, my bad!
> 
> I don't see any "vertical" lacing bars on amazon. However, anything on here should do the trick Amazon.com : vertical server rack lacing bar. *Edit* looks like my search terms were just bad. Here's some vertical cable raceway: Amazon.com : vertical cable management. This stuff is more expensive than the horizontal stuff that'd I'd try first and see if you can get the screw holes to line up or just drill new ones so the holes do line up with your rack @flyers10.
> 
> I'm a fan of this style: https://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Metal-Horizontal-Manager-Server/dp/B06XYTVQR5/ref=sr_1_7?crid=18UFU7BWXVYUO&keywords=vertical+server+rack+lacing+bar&qid=1670520122&sprefix=verticalserver+rack+lacing+bar,aps,443&sr=8-7 as it keeps the wires in place (if you don't want to use any velcro) and hidden.


Yea, vertical. Those basic D-ring ones might fit the bill as simple and cost effective. Thanks.


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## CaptainChunk




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## dwander

flyers10 said:


> Anyone use vertical lace bars or just tying vertical cabling to the rear rack rail?


Do you need vertical lace bars? I have some Id like to get rid of. No idea what shipping Cost would be but if you’re interested feel free to message me.


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## mchrbofa

A working progress, one part of the rack:


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## ivallt

It seems to be hard to find a good guide on rack cooling. I finally found one.


https://www.kaleidescape.com/wp-content/uploads/kaleidescape-whitepaper-av-installation-cooling.pdf


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## squared80

ivallt said:


> It seems to be hard to find a good guide on rack cooling. I finally found one.
> 
> 
> https://www.kaleidescape.com/wp-content/uploads/kaleidescape-whitepaper-av-installation-cooling.pdf


Great find!


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