# 4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG



## kryptonitewhite

Most likely a Buick Rendezevous... like last year, I'll set out tomorrow and may have one by the end of the day... but last time I ended up with an Aztek... we will see how it goes this time. I currently have 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's, 2 CSS FR125S's, and 2 Vifa XT25TG30 ring radiators. I have a Kicker KX850.4 with a bad crossover on 1 channel for the 6.4's, a KX350.4 to be bridged 8ohm on the 4" full rangers, and a KX200.2 thats blown for the tweets. I can send the amps in to Kicker for repair, but I might just buy all new ZX series..IDK yet.


I'll be getting some SHURiKEN SK-BT80 batteries from SicAudio, a HO alt, and proably some audiopipe ap3000d's... Alpine W200 w/ Alpine PXA-H701.


I'll wall off the van with a few layers of MDF, 14" sonotube port in the center of the quad 18's... but no enclosure on the back side. I know I know... owell. After stripping it nekid, I'll use expanding foam to fill in everything I can then try to get a large quantity of resin to coat everything. Make it as air tight and rigid as possible. How sweet to pull up in the lanes and pop open the hatch and burp... unless I get more port gain with the hatch shut. This should be interesting, as the wall will divide the van into 2 chambers... the port connecting the 2... windows up IDK. Windows down, 6th order to the world. Will there be two tunings? a double impedance saddle? 2 low excursion points? we will have to see.


I'm also doing an HT build calling them the Twin Towers... dual 128 cubic foot enclosures each with an IB3 18" with a 12" sonotube port starting with a 6.5Hz tune and working my way up to 15Hz. Another learning/experimenting project.


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## cubdenno

I believe, you opening the hatch in effect raises the port tuning. Tuning frequency is determined by a specific volume, a specific amount of port area and the tuning frequency is adjusted by the length. Opening the doors on your van suddenly makes a specific volume of X cubic feet jump to infinity. So your "15 hertz" tuning with the sonotube of Y length becomes moot because of the increase in "enclosure volume. or rather if you keep the front doors closed the enclosure is the passenger area. All sorts of issues with this design that potentially can cause a bunch of headaches. I am also betting that you will NOT be posting superior numbers. You are well below the resonant freq. of the van. To be loud you burp the vehicles resonant freq. Just my opinion. I look forward to seeing what happens.


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## kryptonitewhite

Look what I picked up today!


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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18228879
> 
> 
> I believe, you opening the hatch in effect raises the port tuning. Tuning frequency is determined by a specific volume, a specific amount of port area and the tuning frequency is adjusted by the length. Opening the doors on your van suddenly makes a specific volume of X cubic feet jump to infinity. So your "15 hertz" tuning with the sonotube of Y length becomes moot because of the increase in "enclosure volume. or rather if you keep the front doors closed the enclosure is the passenger area. All sorts of issues with this design that potentially can cause a bunch of headaches. I am also betting that you will NOT be posting superior numbers. You are well below the resonant freq. of the van. To be loud you burp the vehicles resonant freq. Just my opinion. I look forward to seeing what happens.



opening the hatch makes the world my enclosure volume... so the port will have much less effect


I'm not going for loud or I wouldn't use IB3's







I'd use Wardens or BTLs or SOLOX's or DDZ's


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## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18230270
> 
> 
> opening the hatch makes the world my enclosure volume... so the port will have much less effect
> 
> 
> I'm not going for loud or I wouldn't use IB3's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd use Wardens or BTLs or SOLOX's or DDZ's



Not to argue, I swear. in another forum, we were discussing the merits of IB installation. Since an automobile is a high pressure environment, especially for subs, the normal real world parameters get skewed and obviously don't behave the same way as in an open environment. That said, one of the things that was brought up was that the enclosure that is truly seen is the highest pressure area in an IB configuration. So in your installation, the passenger cabin becomes the airspace the woofer sees when your doors are closed.Since it truly is the smallest area. This of course will affect the tuning of the port I think.


To be honest Krypton, I haven't messed with IB in a car since like 92 or so. I put 4 mtx IB subs in a grand national. A lot of my posts with you will be me trying to find out if my ideas match real world results. So thanks in advance for being patient with me!!


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## kryptonitewhite

I am so glad you mentioned the smaller volume being what the driver sees! I think it will see them both actually. I brought this up a week or 2 ago!

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/en...y-thought.html 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1228191 

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...y-thought.html 


how weird is that? You're just about the only person that recognizes this thought man!


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## cubdenno

Another thing to watch out for will be power handling of the woofers. IB usually causes the power handling to halve. So if they take 500 watts, 250 will be about the max. I have a friend that is running 2 AE 15's and they are receiving about 95 watts a piece and they rock his car. Obviously they are mounted IB with the trunk/hatch area using a membrane to vent to the outside.


Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there.


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## kryptonitewhite

thats the plan, less power REQUIREMENT







the more space, less power to reach same excursion...same output. IB woofers simply have less BL... but I like a HUGE box for a flat/low FR curve anyway..so I need less motor... makes sense eh?


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## kryptonitewhite

I should have posted this here:


Audiopipe AP30001D or Audiopipe AQX3500.1 buying 4 today


What batteries... I was planning 3 SHURiKEN-BT80's... but IDK

http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopi...1d-p-1453.html 

http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopi...01-p-2811.html


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## kryptonitewhite

I guess that amp is 2ohm.. Fi got back, I can get dual 4 so that I have a 4 layer coil instead of a 2 layer coil with a S2.


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## kryptonitewhite

just purchased 6 Fi Audio IB3 18's custom dual 4 ohm. Why? cuz it's double the coil in the gap. Double the wire to split the current flow.


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## kryptonitewhite

 http://remybattery.com/Products/Deka...A31__9A31.aspx 


or

http://www.amazon.com/Shuriken-SK-BT.../dp/B0024ONCSW 


and WHY?


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## cubdenno

Neither. But then again, I am a believer in the Sears Diehard Platinum. 4 year warranty, Made by Oddysey, can get it at any Sears, if an issue, can take back to any Sears. and basically same price as the Deka.


Other than that, Deka. Made in US I believe, great track record. Only 30 bucks more than Chinese made Shuriken.


If you want to go with the Chinese made and cheap, then...

http://stores.ebay.com/Batteryman20 


SLA batteries. Basically Battcaps. mucho cheapo


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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18282934
> 
> 
> Neither. But then again, I am a believer in the Sears Diehard Platinum. 4 year warranty, Made by Oddysey, can get it at any Sears, if an issue, can take back to any Sears. and basically same price as the Deka.
> 
> 
> Other than that, Deka. Made in US I believe, great track record. Only 30 bucks more than Chinese made Shuriken.
> 
> 
> If you want to go with the Chinese made and cheap, then...
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/Batteryman20
> 
> 
> SLA batteries. Basically Battcaps. mucho cheapo



I'll go check out sears tomorrow..thanks man!


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## kryptonitewhite

The Samsung Blu-Rey player I got let me down.. it's loud, sounds like an old printer. If you take the disc out it forgets where it was at and starts over. It can't read any of my burnt CDs, DVDs, or... other material. Sometimes the words don't match the faces on screen. This is compared to the last 2 DVD players I've owned over the years that each cost 30 bucks. So I bought the $100 Blu-Rey .. Magnavox.. so I could give the Samsung to my mother who won't care about all that and wants Netflix live stream. This one is the same... can't read burnt CDs or..other material. Forgets where it was at.


I had $35 of best buy rewards to use up...I figured about $20-$40 for a pair of RCA to XLR cables... they were 99c a piece! So I bought the last 5 they had! So then I had $35 rewards to still burn up, so I got a 100ft spool of Monster Cable







I HATE them. Walmart years ago had 50ft spools of yellow 12gauge for 10 bucks. I still have 1 or 2 left cuz I bought like 6 of them 6 or 7 years ago.


Bought rear drums and shoes for the van, as well as plugs, air and oil filter, and oil. The AC clutch is the fan noise problem. I may just pull the entire AC system like I did on my Accent GT and put the HO alt in it's place? Good idea?


I went to Sears today.. $190 for DieHard platinum. $805 for 4 of them. What ya'll think? get those tomorrow morning or order the Shuriken or Delta?


HT receiver and EP4000's shipped yesterday.


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## kryptonitewhite

 http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-IVA-W505-...item3a5848a057 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALPIN...fAudioQ5fVideo 

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-IVA-W...item3efdb750b2


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## kryptonitewhite

I just bought an IVA-W505 and a PXA-H701 today, now I'm working on batteries and HO alt.


I'm pulling my AC and either gonna drop a 2nd used alt and a AD244 stocker, or, a HO alt with the AD244 stocker.DC power , Ohio gen , APS is who missinglinkaudio recommended. nathan of ecessive can do a 200 amp for $345 shipped.


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## kryptonitewhite

Started tear down on the van , going to get wood tomorrow... build in the towers first.


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## kryptonitewhite

So it appears all I have to do is :

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f27/ho...r-80-a-376788/ 


I guess I should have a CS130D, find a AD244, and swap?


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## kryptonitewhite

The PXA-H701 came a cpl days ago


Alpine IVA-W505 dvd player on it's way


I have 1 Fi IB3 18, 6 more on the way... 4 for the VAN, 2 for the HT until the 22's come out, and a spair


Going to get dual AD244 alts and maybe a modulator for them


Going to get 4 of those batteries pictured above


Need to get some 12 gauge power wire










Going to order 4 AP30001D's when they are back in stock


I have a pair ( 3... a spair) Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiators to be run with the Kicker KX200.2


2 CSS FR125S full range 4.5's to be run bridged 8 ohms off the KX350.4


4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off a KX850.4


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## kryptonitewhite

had 2 create a new photobucket account! sometimes some show sometimes bandwidth error


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## cubdenno

sweet!


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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18351407
> 
> 
> sweet!










you like? well stay tuned! it's about to get LOUD and LOW!


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## kryptonitewhite

had a rust spot i knocked out today for a dollar. paint dont even match but i dont care its better than rust


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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite






























here is my old dashboard top..front stage..to my Hyundai Accent GT











now keeping that in mind, imagine similar up here hanging down!


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## kryptonitewhite

whats more fun tha chicks doing your work for you? (OK, helping..but they never take pics of you doin stuff, but you can't stop yourself from taking pics of them..so it appears that way!)


NOTHING!


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## kryptonitewhite

this dude at my local shop told me to disconnect this blue plug from it's blue connector sceen in these pics since the AC clutch went out.


I have 2 side effects now that don't make sense...any guesses?


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## zoomzilla

Nice, you have your own mechanic! I saw your new battery, are you going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?


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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoomzilla* /forum/post/18388685
> 
> 
> Nice, you have your own mechanic! I saw your new battery, are you going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?



I have 3 batteries.. small one under the hood and 2 big ones! I pick up the 2nd big one tomorrow. Yes doing Big 3, and getting HO alt!


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## kryptonitewhite

alright IDK if I want to pull those heater cores out so i can fill in with foam later or just tape them off and leave them...cuz I dont want to deal with hoses


those electric boxes..idk what they are


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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoomzilla* /forum/post/18388685
> 
> 
> Nice, you have your own mechanic!



so far Ive had 4!


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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18376236



I can't find any info on what size my terminals are.


These are supposed to be the same as DEKA Intimidator - 9A31 31AGM but my 2 caps (what are those caps for??) are at opposing ends where as the DEKA Intimidator - 9A31 31AGM caps are co located on 1 side


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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite






















I got BUSTED!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-JxL7G5DGU


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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite

did i use enough caulk?


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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite




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## kryptonitewhite

MORE FROM THE WHITE TRASH ******* FROM THE NORTH!


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## kryptonitewhite

I'm attempting something similar to my old front stage, but nothing near as elaborate.


there's a lot of available airspace, it's just that its so shallow and wide.... it's basically the width of the van, the depth from the front of the roof back to the wall...well, actually there's a roof support that cut's it in 1/2 before the wall... but it can only come down so far before it will obstruct my view or make the roof too low.


when I made my 1st front stage, the speakers were about 1.5 feet below eye level so I aimed them 1.5 feet above eye level to make them appear at eye level. Also, all 8 speakers were mounted on separate baffles, each speaker was aimed at exactly the same point on the roof.


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## kryptonitewhite

so I have a problem. I spray painted the 1st side's windows black so it just looks like dark tint. but I didn't spray paint the other side. Good thing. For the 1st few days it looked pretty cool... all the different layers of foam that all looked cured a different way.


Today, I can see it all collapsed!


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## kryptonitewhite

so here you can see the outside edges where the foam was exposed to air turned out, you can also see I did some touching up this morning..some fresh foam in a few places, a few more cans hanging...but over all, very well






























some patch work





























see the dark yellow? thats old foam not yet cured... as I peel the duct tape away, foam not yet exposed to air is all gooey and starts to run and bubble when it gets air, so I try to press the tape back and let it cure more now that it has more air




















AND THE FAILURE. COLLAPSED. no air? now what do I do?










































































the glass makes for terrible reflection I know...sorry


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## kryptonitewhite

Kicker is fixing 2 of my 4channels for $115!


KX200.2 used to blow fuses immidiately. someone started repair, now green light but no sound


KX850.4 crossover on 1 channel doesn't function properly


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## kryptonitewhite

so, the foam did cure, it did collapse so to speak...more like it left giant voids. But it also left a huge skeleton structure... it looks like an under ground tunnel labrynth by moles and the like. Some of it is very concentrated and sturdy looking. I think this is a blessing in disguise.


I'm just gonna drill and fill.


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## kryptonitewhite

why does my phone take better pics than my brand new $250 camera?!


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## kryptonitewhite

ya so... when i was looking for power wire, I couldn't get a definitive on AP30001D terminal size, but i think it is 0. So I looked for 0. Then, the guy I bought the amps from was selling 50ft spools for $100. But i found some cheap crap for $65. Sure, it wasn't pure copper, and he couldn't tell me if his was when he said "sorry I don't get generic so i can't go less than a bill" or something to that effect. But i figured Ive never ran bigger than 4 gauge.. i dont care what anyone says, screw internal resistence and volatge drop and all that talk. I had 6 red tops off 4 gauge and I was fine, so if I get cheap 0 gauge it still has to be better than the best 4 gauge.


Another angle: The junk was $50, $65 shipped. The "good stuff" was $100... IDK how much shipping would tag on, but let's just say the cost was double. There's no way that the copper only wire is gonna be twice as good as the junk wire. So screw it!


BUT, I got it today, and you can literally see a fraction of the strands are aluminum! OK, so i was thinking I would have to pay double to get some 99.98% pure copper wire or some crazy number vs maybe 80%-90% copper...but wow, this is like 60%-80% maybe? IDK...


And, it sure doesn't look huge. It resembles the 4 gauge I've been working with..but the packing says 0 gauge..so whatever.



So then I had to look for terminal rings, and IDK the terminal size on my AGM batts...so i just get the biggest I can order... and of course its a touch small, so I have to use a drill and shave the holes to get them to fit my battery terminals.










Oh well! No crying here. I got a badass system in progress. I'm not letting some collapsed foam in my way! Slow me down? ya. But it will get done!



So as for foam, I drilled 2 holes in 2 separate pockets and sprayed just 1 can in each. It looked normal at first, but later it looks like it's just melting into the rest of the blob. I'll look again tomorrow in new light.


I got some cheap paint and painted the caulk from the window..looks a lot better.


I'ma keep on movin! ALT and AMPS should be here soon.


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## kryptonitewhite

The wire nor anything else is a huge issue. Here is an end pic to show jacket thickness.











if I am competing to get every last drop of SPL, that last .01dB..OK. If I'm competing in SQ and I just gotta have it perfect...fine.


But 99% of the time I'm going to be using 20% or less of the power I have on tap. Those IB drivers aren't going to be getting 3000 watts RMS! Those 1" tweets aren't going to be getting 200 watts RMS! I am over building so that I can coast rather than redline


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## kryptonitewhite

ok nevermind! my old 4 to my new 0... big difference


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## cubdenno

Use multiple runs from front to back. It's the length of the wire run and the amount of current you are expecting to make it carry. Your amp is going to determine that. also, look at this website. On the right are "chapters". Look for Chapter 16 Wire http://www.bcae1.com/ 


This table shows the amount of current flow which will cause a 1/2 volt drop in a 15 foot run of cable. Many people consider 1/2 volt to be the maximum acceptable voltage loss in a system's main power wire. The 'total amp power' is the total maximum unclipped RMS power output of all of the amplifiers combined. It is based on 60% efficiency (for class AB amplifiers) and a battery voltage of 13.8 volts.


Wire Gauge Current Flow Max Total Amp Power

Class AB (60% eff) Max Total Amp Power

Class D (75% eff)

0 awg 330 amps 2731 watts 3414 watts

1 awg 262 amps 2168 watts 2710 watts

2 awg 208 amps 1720 watts 2151 watts

3 awg 165 amps 1365 watts 1707 watts

4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts

5 awg 104 amps 860 watts 1075 watts

6 awg 82 amps 683 watts 853 watts

7 awg 65 amps 542 watts 677 watts

8 awg 52 amps 430 watts 537 watts

9 awg 41 amps 341 watts 427 watts

10 awg 33 amps 271 watts 339 watts

11 awg 26 amps 215 watts 269 watts

12 awg 21 amps 171 watts 213 watts

13 awg 16 amps 135 watts 169 watts

14 awg 13 amps 107 watts 134 watts


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## kryptonitewhite

My question is, if you have just 1 battery in the dront and 1 battery in the back, and you are drawing XXX current...


vs


1 battery in the front and 10 batteries in the back, same current. What all does that effect?


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## cubdenno

You will be charging the batteries from the alternator. So size the wire run for the amperage of the alternator. If Alt is a 300 amp alternator then figure on that wire run to be seeing the 300+ amps.


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## kryptonitewhite

gooid thing I went with the higher low rpm out put rather than the larger overall...


From Iraggi:


"

220 $359 (160-200 amps @ idle)

240 $379 (160-190 amps @ idle)

260 $399 (160-180 amps @ idle)

280 $419 (150-180 amps @ idle)

300 $439 (140-215 amps @ idle)



Yes, the 220 has the best low rpm performance "


Jordan Powell wrote:

this one will have the most expected output at idle: 220 $359 (160-200 amps @ idle) ?



so only 220


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## kryptonitewhite

well I used the 50 bucks I saved on wire and got a hydro crimper







there's a dude on www.carstereoforum.net doing 4 DP21s 4th order that sent me a link t get it. My window started acting up so i put in a new motor yesterday. I pulled the dash to see how I'm gonna customize it to get the Alpine to fit...man it's a tight squeeze. I knew all along once I popped the dash open I'd have to look and see if i could do the front stage in it again..but nope, a HUGE aluminum plate. Good. The roof build will be easy and simple. Started working on the false roof and started the bracing for the wall... 2 layers of 2x6... will make a # sign too with 2 supports up and down and 2 side to side going between subs and port. oh, and I got a fish tank pump and hose... i drilled a bunch of holes in both sides the other day and let it sit..nothing has happened...so I'll leave that on overnight and see what happens.


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## kryptonitewhite

the roof is in, it was a lot of work getting the roof to curve and bend...so bad that fasteners wont hold. Ive been considering using 2 2x6s to go behind the seats to keep them from going back and hitting the subs..well now they're roof supports as well




















sketched out the wall so I can see how I'm gonna make the # sign... it's looking like it will have to be just 2 going up and down, and not doubled up







only part way side to side but maybe doubled up... port will be in the way










I was only gonna tripple baffle the wall, but i may have to add a couple layers..but then the subs might get close to wacking the 2x6 roof supports/seat protectors











12,000 watts. Combined with the three 4-channels, that is 14,000 RMS potential


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## kryptonitewhite

front stage











so it's being said that gauge must be measured by wire, not jacket included, but everyone has the same reaction...looks small for 0. So which is it?


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## kryptonitewhite

I've got aprx 105 cubes before port displacement and wheel well/ AC condensor, heater core, subs, amps, and bracing.


20" X 50" port (55" total, 5" will stick out like my HT) is over 9 cubes displ... so 88 total, about 22 cubes per sub...same as my Aztek box. My aztek had a 7.5" diameter port for 44" of area, where 20" is 314/4= 78.5" per sub


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## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18474669
> 
> 
> front stage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it's being said that gauge must be measured by wire, not jacket included, but everyone has the same reaction...looks small for 0. So which is it?



Gauge is measured by the wire. Otherwise I could purchase 18 gauge speaker wire. Take speaker wire and split wire into two separate cables, rejacket cables with an inch thick jacketing and call it 00 or what ever I wanted.


This ultra thick jacketing is where people get ripped off. The think they are being sold some sort of "monster" power wire. In reality they are being sold inferior gauged wire that in my opinion has the potential of disaster.


In your case, with the power you are going to be pulling with your setup, make DAMN sure you have correct gauging. To small of wire will have greater resistance. greater resistance causes heat. To much heat causes.... Well you know what can happen.


That 50 foot spool of wire you have, I honestly would use to wire from distribution blocks to amps. Short runs at that. Get some good "known to be gauged true/correctly" wire from a reputable reseller/manufacturer.


Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 Awesome wire. Flexible correctly gauged. If I was going to redo my wiring, I would switch to this. I used it installing my brothers stereo and fell in love with it.


Knukonceptz- I used this stuff in my car. Correctly gauged and in some cases oversized. Make sure you understand the difference between CCA and OFC CCA is cheaper for a reason


Stinger- They have some in my opinion, unique jumbo cabling 1/0-3/0 oval stuff. Requires special ends but a single run of the 3/0 and you should be set.


Go to a welding supply shop. Welding cable can be had often for 1/2 the cost of "car audio" power wire. Let's be honest... Copper is copper as long as its copper.


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## kryptonitewhite

I'll be drawing 20% of my capable power 99% of the time...

1% of the time will be short 3-5 second bursts in which the battery banks should be enough storage.


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## cubdenno

20% of the available power is probably 250-300 amps. your max is well over a 1000 amps.


I am not trying to be argumentative or an ass. But you are spending a crap ass load of money and time on this project. Spending 75 bucks to get yourself the correct gauge of wire to power this nuclear power plant only makes sense. Shorting yourself IMO will end up costing more in possible damage and lost time in the long run. Obviously this is your baby. And you will do what you want. I just hate to see people skimp on something that is so important. Look at it this way... How much did you spend on spray foam? Now the power wire is the only power delivery system to your amps. don't make the mistake of choking them.


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## kryptonitewhite









so do you recommend just getting different wire, or, getting more so I can make more runs to the back?


More specifically.. the 200.2 (30A), 350.4 (40A)... don't even accept 0 gauge..they are 8 gauge..so no worries there


the 850.4 (120A) is 2 gauge...no worries either


but so the AP30001D's... they come with 200A fuses but IDK their rating ( skipping doing Ohm's Law and guessing efficiency and assuming rating is spot on) But, will this cheap 0 gauge be good enough for the amps?


Assuming the power wire is good enough for batteries to amps....



Good enough for big 3?


If it's not good enough for alt to bat and front bat to back, then obviousely just do more runs.


So...just mor of the same? another $50 for another spool to double up front to back?


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## kryptonitewhite

so my neighbor used to peek and stare every time he passed while I was working...weve become friends and he has 3 12" CVR's...single 4ohm...sealed. He has a rockford t1500 that fried...all 3 subs were parallel LOL. So I sold him one of my amps and ordered another one. we runnin that ***** at 6 friggen ohms. it's louder than his rockford was. we're gonna IB his trunk with them this weekend so ill make a build log of that later. the fuse holder that came with the BNIB amp had bad burn marks on the inside where the power wire makes its contact! Everything looks and works fine though. Now I'm nervouse I wont get a 4th amp for a while after the build is complete










anyway,


I made 2 of 3 baffles today, put 1 in on the backside of the wall frame so that I can mark out everything and add more bracing easily. Its hard to see from the pics, but theres a sub in each corner then a 22" port line. 22" is retarded. The 18's look tiny now. Anyway, my tuning was too high and after mapping things out I decided I can squeeze a bigger port to raise tuning and add area... but a quick run in ISD still shows 12.35Hz so I'll have to shorten the port a little. At the top there are 2 6.5" 2x4's coming down then connected with a 16" wide. On the bottom I made 2 triangles. It's the best I can do...so I decided I'm gonnatripple baffle the front still, but put a 4th on the back of the 6" wide bracing so I can caulk and screw together to hold and support the bracing. I'll lose a little more airspace, so maybe I wont have to shorten the port after all.


baffle board on the back side, pic from the back looking in











from inside looking back... port cutout line and the outline of the top support




















bottom 2 supports











more of the same






































really, I just cant put the baffle boards in front where they are supposed to be cuz they wont fit through the doors, and I cant put them in through the back cuz the supports are in the way..I cant take the supports out cuz they are holdig the roof up..and Im not redoing the roof but 1 time cuz that was a nightmare.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I've always had love for Kicker. Over the years, every time I need something... they just ask my address and send it. "what's the charge?" "oh it's already sent. thanks for Livin Loud!"


Well I got my amps back yesterday in record time, and included was 1 or 2 sets of remote gain control with the cable(s). I thought I saw 2 but today I pulled them back out to snap pics and there's one. Either way I won't be using them so someone locally that needs one will scoop it up sometime. I just love Kicker, always have.











I love when my woman helps











it's cool when we can play flirt and tease while doing installs.


even better when I can put her to work











I wasn't satisfied with the bracing, so I decided to connect the top brace with the bottom two..I'll have to shave out a lot on both of them for the speaker cutouts, but with them being sandwiched from both sides, should still be well worth it. That 22" port just eats up the whole wall.


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18485595
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so do you recommend just getting different wire, or, getting more so I can make more runs to the back?
> 
> 
> More specifically.. the 200.2 (30A), 350.4 (40A)... don't even accept 0 gauge..they are 8 gauge..so no worries there
> 
> 
> the 850.4 (120A) is 2 gauge...no worries either
> 
> 
> but so the AP30001D's... they come with 200A fuses but IDK their rating ( skipping doing Ohm's Law and guessing efficiency and assuming rating is spot on) But, will this cheap 0 gauge be good enough for the amps?
> 
> 
> Assuming the power wire is good enough for batteries to amps....
> 
> 
> 
> Good enough for big 3?
> 
> 
> If it's not good enough for alt to bat and front bat to back, then obviousely just do more runs.
> 
> 
> So...just mor of the same? another $50 for another spool to double up front to back?



Without knowing the exact gauge of the wire, but knowing that you are going to be pulling some SERIOUS amperage, 2 maybe 3 runs to be safe... Or just buy a 15-20 foot section of adequately sized wire.

http://www.darvex.com/0_gauge_power_wire.html 


Darvex.com is a kick moocho A$$ site.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable 


everybody says good stuff about Knu. decent prices


I like the Knu stuff. I do not like their kompression fittings for distribution.


You could buy another roll but hell keep the roll you have and buy a single 1/0 wire run. Should handle the loads you are wanting as the majority at full blast will have to come from the battery bank at the back.


When setting up those batteries, get some 1/4" thick aluminum bar stock to attach the batteries to. Make that the distribution set up. I will look for some examples.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18490437
> 
> 
> Without knowing the exact gauge of the wire, but knowing that you are going to be pulling some SERIOUS amperage, 2 maybe 3 runs to be safe... Or just buy a 15-20 foot section of adequately sized wire.
> 
> http://www.darvex.com/0_gauge_power_wire.html
> 
> 
> Darvex.com is a kick moocho A$$ site.
> 
> http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable
> 
> 
> everybody says good stuff about Knu. decent prices
> 
> 
> I like the Knu stuff. I do not like their kompression fittings for distribution.
> 
> 
> You could buy another roll but hell keep the roll you have and buy a single 1/0 wire run. Should handle the loads you are wanting as the majority at full blast will have to come from the battery bank at the back.
> 
> 
> When setting up those batteries, get some 1/4" thick aluminum bar stock to attach the batteries to. Make that the distribution set up. I will look for some examples.










thank you!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

4-5 years ago when i was workin on my accent build with the front stage going 4-way active, I came up with the idea of 4 toggle switches.. HP-BP-BP-LP. So I can kill any range I want and have on any range I want... mainly for showin off the system and teaching people...cuz Ive always got people walkin up on my wanting to learn.. and I can demonstrate "this is what the tweeters do" and kill the rest. "this is just tweets and subs".. and so on.


So I got my Iraggi today, scooped up 4 toggles and another DMM as my X biatch snatch gots all my old stereo, tools, everything....












gotta show off my 12" port and my lights too... gonna do the same in the VAN... red and blue lights. Someday I'll scoop up a little amp and do bass on 1 channel and treble on the other, have blue lights hooked to bass and red to trebble, so the blues are long and continuous and reds flashin and blinkin rapid like.


----------



## sjabosi

how do you pick out the time to do this project??!

Looks sweet, I'll be following this.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Ive got plenty of time for a little while yet... though I have reached a stress point. Im kind of at a stand still where it's hard to get motivated, i have so much to do, and so many people that come to me mid-project for help on theirs... but I'll get it done!


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18496674
> 
> 
> Ive got plenty of time for a little while yet... though I have reached a stress point. Im kind of at a stand still where it's hard to get motivated, i have so much to do, and so many people that come to me mid-project for help on theirs... but I'll get it done!



Stay strong brother!!!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

i didnt do a think yesterday, i got some extra sleep, watched the two towers and enjoyed them...now I am remotivated! So I'm all pumped to go out and start cutting holes in the roof..but as soon as I do that, the neighbor guy I promised to help today will pop his head up


----------



## kryptonitewhite

ya'll know how much i HATE do do stuff for cosmetics...but i couldn't help myself. I wanted to add a spacer for more rear clearance for the pole vents as well as a thicker baffle for better screw grabbin. Then I couldn't help but trace it out. Then I couldn't help but break out the 'ol router. BUT I made DAMN sure to at least do a ****** job!


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

basically they are Adire Audio Kit LCRs using the Vifa to replace the Usher


2 Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweeters being run off a Kicker KX200.2 These will be high passed MUCH higher than they should be. They are solid down to 1.5k, 3k would be an excellent crossing, but I'm going to go super high... maybe as high as 12-14kHz... I won't know till i play. I hate the 2nd highest treble tweeters reproduce. I love the extreme highs.


2 CSS FR125S 4.5" full range drivers. These drivers were made for audiophiles that are so peculiar that they are willing to sacrifice the extreme highs and extreme lows to avoid a crossover and all the SQ lost with them. They have a copper sleeve and XBL^2 tech to get them to go as high and as low as possible, low inductance..yadda yadda yadda. They can be played up to 20kHz just fine. I should cross them close to my Vifa's range, but I'm purposely making a hole in my sound floor where the lower treble range will be attenuated. But hey, between the FR125S and the XT25TG30's, I'll still have more treble I'll ever need... just not so harsh and raspy. These will be bandpassed from 700Hz to wherever I end up staring the hole. Kicker KX350.4 bridged, as these are HT 8ohm speakers.


4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's. XBL2. These 4 woofers are good down to 33Hz when vented. I'll cross them somewhere around 50-80Hz, I will take lots of play time to optimize them. My subs play quite high, they sound good crossed at 80Hz in my HT, but a main focus of mine is DMX going "uh! uh-huh!" or JaRule, Ludacris... deep voices. Pac. I went with 4 of these when 2 would be overkill in their mounting location as it is, cuz I want the high/tight/thump/kick to be crisp and clear. I want bass guitars, drums, men's voices... to be strong and effortless, not strained and breaking up. I could run 4 12" subwoofers with a Kicker KX850.4 it was benched 1000 RMS. It's running these bad boys. Bandpassed 60Hz-700Hz.


The Fi IB3 18's in 86 cubic feet with a 22" port tuned to 15Hz LPed at 80Hz. 4 AP30001D's.


Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player to watch WOTW's, HULK, Star Trek, Transformers... you name it..so I don't have to listen to the same 20-30 songs all day with sub-20Hz content.


I need an excellent crossover to do 4-way active, 2 channels bandpassed. I chose the Alpine PXA-H701.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

shout out to Brian, B_Rich, for the alternator thread mensioned earlier... linking him this thread now...


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Add me on Face Book

http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p....2069900578..1 


Jordan Powell


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

my neighbor buddy, i made him cut the holes on the last baffle board..they dont much matter anyway theyre way in back..but he did pretty good


----------



## kryptonitewhite

it's been a while since I've been challenged on my "infinite baffle woofer" usage, but someone is... forceful again, so i thought my reply is a good one for all the IB3 VAN builds


I have already proved the IB3 18 works great in an enclosure. I have been running mine in one for the last year. Over a year ago I ran it in an Aztek, 21.5 cubic feet, 7.5" port, 15Hz tune. I then retuned to 20Hz, 25Hz, and 33Hz to experiment, then back to 15. I first ran it with a Lanzar OPTI2000D. That wasn't enough power for this ""IB"" sub. Then I got a Hifonics BXi2608D. It still wasn't enough at 2 ohms, so I ordered a custom dual 2 recone kit to run it at 1 ohm.


Then I brought the box in my home. It worked great in-car and in-home. In the house I first ran it off 2 cheap walmart plate amps. Considering the power it was most impressive. Then I ran it off a Behringer EP4000.


Since I was right, I bought 6 more of them, and I am now running 2 of them in 128 cubic feet each, with an EP4000 each.


The VAN build is the same thing... 22 cubic feet, 15Hz tune...just more port area.


This is a video in the Aztek off a Lanzar OPTI2000D. It was loud, it was clear, it was low, responce was smooth, flat, and wide. It played very high as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGWsO36WPtc 


I hope you have a good stereo on your PC. I just watched this vid and it made my computer and monitor BOUNCE in the next room. Anyone who wants to politely ask my opinion, fine, but beware about being cocky. This video right here was made with a cheap 60 watt amp from walmart. I'd like to see any other subwoofer do a lot better than this one did off 60 watts..period.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kc45DVa205Q 


The camera used in the last vid and this vid was terrible, all noise is distorted..even quiet... so this is exaggerated a bit. But for 60 watts, this "infinite baffle" subwoofer shakes the entire house.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9waeVEMYhY 


Now the thing that I loved about the walmart amps, was they played single digit subsonics that my EP4000s can not. This video was made to show the guys on Home Theater Shack that I indeed did get a lot of port velocity on a 7.5" port with an IB 18 with less than 200 watts. This used to shake my house with the 1 sub, but with my new amps it's almost not even present. EP's are known for a steep roll off below 20Hz.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z08-wdYLYnA 


gotta love WOTWs. while in a huge box tuned low to get subsonics, it still hit hard, kicked hard, slammed hard for the punch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOgvx6-pXYg 


my favorite part of the whole movie. if you dont have a huge system hooked to your PC youre not gonna get this...it is far too low and you have to move a LOT of air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVfQeNr3V4Q 


a song with sub 20Hz material and thumping at the same time?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kw2AgXgqzns 


got the EP4000's, my old sub was dual 2, the new ones are dual 4, so I wanted to blow my old sub to recone it as a dual 4 so I have a replacement. this is a 17Hz sine wave... a lot of power AT TUNING. with an infinite baffle speaker. hmmm. blowing wind across the room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bH-vBmcvJc 


10Hz on a 17Hz tune... unloading still shakin my house and blowing air full excursion. listen to the EP4000 fan kickin it in high gear at the end when I stop the sine wave.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAJuDR_q48Y 


Built the Two Towers.... distorts the crap out of the new camera, 780i HD


These were with a 6.5Hz tune! 128 cubic feet per box, 12" diameter port, 48" long

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2-I-WmbUMs 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnla31MFWR0 


ever made two 200lb boxes rock back and forth and fan blads bounce froma 6Hz sine wave?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY_JNzJMA1A 


retuned to 15Hz... FULL EXCURSION sine wave for a full minute, didnt even get the sub warm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbz7bKnDbaA 


did it again, with my back door shut. It is on the other side of the house...and it was moving so far i could see light through it from outside.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6jQTaDAQjw 


I rest my case


thanks


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## Manic1!

If your still looking for cheap power wire check out a local welding supply shop.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manic1!* /forum/post/18513712
> 
> 
> If your still looking for cheap power wire check out a local welding supply shop.



I might just use the 0 I got for battery to amp runs, and check out local welding for Big 3 and alt to batt runs.


man this foam got slopy at the end didnt it


----------



## kryptonitewhite

on this alpine deck I have 2 long yellow wires o the harness, yellow blue for parking break and yellow black for foot break.


I am assuming these are to ensure youre not driving and playing video at the same time?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

alright there are 2 brake wires to make sure your parked to be able to view video. yellow blue is parking brake and yellow black is foot brake .


To watch video source, push foot break to come to a complete stop, then engage park brake . Keep pushing foot brake and release parking brake once then engage again. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time release the foot brake .


I'm going to use 2 toggle switches for this so others can watch video while I drive safely.



The diagram showing splicing into the foot brake lamp and parking brake lamp shows the foot brake spliced into the positive wire after the switch, before the lamp.


It shows the parking brake spliced after the lamp but before the switch, making it the negative.


So does the foot need to be on a positive switch and the parking a grounded switch?


anyway here's my first wobbly vid right after I installed it driving around playing a cd and getting a feel for the touch screen and tilt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ugDbUEs_u8 



Got the hydrolic crimper ( thanks again for the heads up rmzsuzuki89 ) and 4th subwoofer amp replacing the one I sold to my neighbor.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

One of the amps has a loose item floating inside, like a screw or something. I don't want to complain and send it back to have them crack the case and make sure it wasn't off of something and came out, I'd guess just dropped inside... but I don't want to void warranty and open it myself (if I even have a warranty). What should I do? This is what happened years ago with my first Lanzar OPTI2000D. Something was loose, but I hooked it to the Avalanche anyway. It worked fine. All a sudden it fried the sub then went to protect mode. It had a busted fan, overheated, shorted out, 12V DC to sub.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I've had a bunch of those drill bit extentions all over in my way, now that Ive needed one I cant find any of them. I have at least 5 different tool stashes and boxes..kept digging, none to be found. So I ran to walmart and bought one so I can actually tighten the amps down... at first glance these pics look the same, but they look way better now that they're not just hanging


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow.


So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake.


Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed.


The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps.


Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18530806
> 
> 
> pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow.
> 
> 
> So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake.
> 
> 
> Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed.
> 
> 
> The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps.
> 
> 
> Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?


 http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Maxxlink.html 


this will help


as for toggle switch, it depends on what type. single pole single throw, double pole double throw and a whole bunch other types.


----------



## bigbarney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18530806
> 
> 
> Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?



Not *absolutely* necessary.... but it would be better with a distro block.


Each time you divide the signal you will lose a bit of power. A distro block with preamp will keep the signal at its peak level on all 4 outputs.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18531129
> 
> http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Maxxlink.html
> 
> 
> this will help
> 
> 
> as for toggle switch, it depends on what type. single pole single throw, double pole double throw and a whole bunch other types.



Built-in 6.5Hz set-up test tone that should be fun










the HPF isn't defeatable though... at least it gos down to 15Hz though


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbarney* /forum/post/18531911
> 
> 
> Not *absolutely* necessary.... but it would be better with a distro block.
> 
> 
> Each time you divide the signal you will lose a bit of power. A distro block with preamp will keep the signal at its peak level on all 4 outputs.



I did have an Audiocontrol 6XS which had a built in line driver, so I wasn't worried, but now I have the Alpine PXA-H701. That won't boost signal, will it?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

My friend just grounded the parking brake to the ground for the HU. But I tested my wire and it has nothing, which means it wants power input, no?


the manual has a diagram showing the foot brake being spliced on the positive side after the switch before the lamp. The parking brake on the positive side after the lamp but before the switch. it's confusing!



This is getting more complicated than I think it should be. The manual shows the yellow black wire sliced into the foot brake and the yellow blue spliced into the parking break. Are they both grounds? Are they both looking for power input? 1 ground and the other power input? The diagram is confusing in the maual. Google search yields:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...a-w505-37.html 

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/head-u...ke-bypass.html 


Ideas?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

The resin vapors were getting to me yesterday, the toggle switches have a lights DUH!


----------



## bigbarney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18533673
> 
> 
> I did have an Audiocontrol 6XS which had a built in line driver, so I wasn't worried, but now I have the Alpine PXA-H701. That won't boost signal, will it?



If the Alpine only has one sub output and you're adding multiple sub amps then to get peak performance you will need an amplified distro box. That being said however, the amps you're using are pretty good quality and should have a gain *boost* dial on the input. This will serve just as well. Just boost the input gain a little on each amp.


Some HU's need a ground on the parking wire... some need it to be hot. Mine (JVC) needed a hot (+12v) so I simply connected it to the 12v accessory line.


It's not hard to test... give it a ground and see if it works... if not then give it 12 volts. You won't damage it either way since it is diode protected.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbarney* /forum/post/18534184
> 
> 
> If the Alpine only has one sub output and you're adding multiple sub amps then to get peak performance you will need an amplified distro box. That being said however, the amps you're using are pretty good quality and should have a gain *boost* dial on the input. This will serve just as well. Just boost the input gain a little on each amp.
> 
> 
> Some HU's need a ground on the parking wire... some need it to be hot. Mine (JVC) needed a hot (+12v) so I simply connected it to the 12v accessory line.
> 
> 
> It's not hard to test... give it a ground and see if it works... if not then give it 12 volts. You won't damage it either way since it is diode protected.



Kick ass, thanks BigB. Thing is, I have 2 wires, and a retarded description of what to do.


" To watch a video source:


1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake.


2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again.


3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "








yay.


----------



## bigbarney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18534385
> 
> 
> 
> " To watch a video source:
> 
> 
> 1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake.
> 
> 
> 2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again.
> 
> 
> 3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "



Are you friggin serious?!?


It looks like they're trying to fix it so that you can't bypass the system. I would return the HU with a nasty note attached to it saying..... F YOU!


Short of that... you will have to use switches and flick them in the proper order when you want to watch a video.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbarney* /forum/post/18534492
> 
> 
> Are you friggin serious?!?
> 
> 
> It looks like they're trying to fix it so that you can't bypass the system. I would return the HU with a nasty note attached to it saying..... F YOU!
> 
> 
> Short of that... you will have to use switches and flick them in the proper order when you want to watch a video.



hahaha yes, thats what Ive figured since I looked at the manual... i'll have to flip the foot break, flip the park brake, unflip the park break, reflip it while unflipping the foot brake. and flip the government and alpine










SO... if I use my DMM and test both wires and both are dead, then they both want power, right? However... what if I give the foot brake power, then the park brake will GIVE power LOL...thi is so fun


NOOOOOT


----------



## cubdenno

I put in a simple toggle on the boy's head unit. He has it off (open circuit) when he wants to watch movie, he flips toggle (circuit is now grounded.) I just hooke wire from head unit to toggle switch and toggle switch to ground wire. The head unit knows whether the line is grounded or not so that's why we have a toggle switch.


As for the H701, I used the center and the Sub out for signal to sub amp. You should know you can configure the center output to subwoofer duties.


That said. The H701 has 4 volt outputs.


You could get two line drivers and some Y connectors. 2 Y connectors off the sub and center out of the H701. This gives you 2pr of outputs


Connect each Y pair to one line driver.


get 4 more y connectors and hook 2 Y's to each output on the line drivers. This gives 4 separate pairs of connections to hook rca's off of. Run each pair of rca's to an amp.


Hopefully you get what I am saying.


Cheap line driver
http://www.millionbuy.com/paupld2.html


----------



## s_carter

there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.


----------



## bigbarney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s_carter* /forum/post/18535037
> 
> 
> there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.



Geeez.... and I was flipping back and forth trying to decide on the JVC or the Alpine. I ended up with the JVC (better bang for the buck). It looks like I made the right decision. Who needs yet another bypass module!?!


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18534972
> 
> 
> I put in a simple toggle on the boy's head unit. He has it off (open circuit) when he wants to watch movie, he flips toggle (circuit is now grounded.) I just hooke wire from head unit to toggle switch and toggle switch to ground wire. The head unit knows whether the line is grounded or not so that's why we have a toggle switch.
> 
> 
> As for the H701, I used the center and the Sub out for signal to sub amp. You should know you can configure the center output to subwoofer duties.
> 
> 
> That said. The H701 has 4 volt outputs.
> 
> 
> You could get two line drivers and some Y connectors. 2 Y connectors off the sub and center out of the H701. This gives you 2pr of outputs
> 
> 
> Connect each Y pair to one line driver.
> 
> 
> get 4 more y connectors and hook 2 Y's to each output on the line drivers. This gives 4 separate pairs of connections to hook rca's off of. Run each pair of rca's to an amp.
> 
> 
> Hopefully you get what I am saying.
> 
> 
> Cheap line driver
> http://www.millionbuy.com/paupld2.html



since the PXA has 4V outs, won't that be plenty to split to 4 monoblocks?


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s_carter* /forum/post/18535037
> 
> 
> there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbarney* /forum/post/18535145
> 
> 
> Geeez.... and I was flipping back and forth trying to decide on the JVC or the Alpine. I ended up with the JVC (better bang for the buck). It looks like I made the right decision. Who needs yet another bypass module!?!





s-carter... are you lil' wayne?


hehe jk


anyway, wont toggle switches do the same thing??


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Alright I have 6 light up toggle swtiches. 1 for the super tweets, 1 for mid rangers, 1 for mid woofers, and 1 for subwoofers... so I can turn on any combination of them I want. Then I have 2 more for the video on the DVD player, 1 for foot pedal and 1 for parking brake.















































ripped the wire from the roof and burried in the dash


----------



## s_carter

yes, switches will do the same thing, but the module is pre-programmed to pulse the connection, so its fully automatic. install it and forget it, never have to touch any switches. just an option out there for ya. what drivers did you get for those huge boxes in your house anyway, i can't remember. i was just wondering how you liken them. i just picked up an ssd18 and it fuggen pounds the hell out of my house with only like 400-500 watts.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s_carter* /forum/post/18535212
> 
> 
> yes, switches will do the same thing, but the module is pre-programmed to pulse the connection, so its fully automatic. install it and forget it, never have to touch any switches. just an option out there for ya. what drivers did you get for those huge boxes in your house anyway, i can't remember. i was just wondering how you liken them. i just picked up an ssd18 and it fuggen pounds the hell out of my house with only like 400-500 watts.



IB3's... and with 2 Walmart Regent HT391 amps, no more than 150 watts total, mine was pretty impressive too!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted them into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry.


While driving around, I turned the 4 remote toggles on to see how the lights held up with current draw. They got warm! WTF!Just 4 of the lights, as the other 2 need to be left off after doing the sequence. I'm worried now what'll happen when there's 7 amps hooked to them too.


Here it is: Avatar drivin in the car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3NLz6fG1lk


----------



## kryptonitewhite

heres a vid of the toggle switch rig and doing the sequence to get video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15ktGpYKpQQ


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.


Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.


So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better?


Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same **** everyone else sells.


END RANT


----------



## kryptonitewhite

alright, i ran to walmart, they have 50 foot spools of 14 gauge scosche for $13 and 50 foot of 12 gauge for $18. its even pretty blue and silver. I think i have enough old yellow to do all this, but if not I can go get more at walmart. Ill take my 16 gauge bb back and get some movies if they let me. gonna go install some wire.


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18537932
> 
> 
> I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.
> 
> 
> Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.
> 
> 
> So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better?
> 
> 
> Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same **** everyone else sells.
> 
> 
> END RANT



Pretty sure 16 gauge is going to work for most of your set up. Maybe not the subs especially on a long run. It all just depends on the length of wire run that will determine resistance and voltage drop.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18538080
> 
> 
> Pretty sure 16 gauge is going to work for most of your set up. Maybe not the subs especially on a long run. It all just depends on the length of wire run that will determine resistance and voltage drop.



ya but if I gotta have good 0 gauge wire for the amps, then why run tiny 16 gauge from them LOL jk jk


----------



## kryptonitewhite

so, this morning i woke up motivated (usually it takes me a cpl hours, shower..check email, check forums, drive somewhere...then maybe start working) I was ready to grab the wire I got at BB and start running it. I spent all day running around town like a ree-ree, wasting time. I just grabbed my scrap 14 gauge I've had for years and ran it...all of it except the 2 tweeters... I haven't even opened the roll of yellow yet. It took me all of 10 minutes.


But I'll look at it this way... now i know walmart still carries the cheapest 14 gauge in town. I might get some DVDs instead of the 16 gauge. So the running around was worth it? IDK.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I'm sorry Best Buy! I was steamed, now I'm good. Whenever I shop there, I hear so much about how much better than Walmart BB is. But it's not. So I took the wire back, it' a non-return item, but she did anyway..and it was a rewards purchase, so i need to wait for the awards to be reissued. I picked up Inside Man with the cash portion of the refund, and I'll get The Incredible Hulk or something with the rewards.


I forgot to mension I ordered another roll of 50ft 0 gauge, same place, same wire.


----------



## kryptonitewhite







































twice the coil...hmmmm...


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Alright I let the skeleton template cure and pulled the roof back out. It worked well, I traced the skeleton onto cardboard, ripped the template off, and now I'm glassing off the cardboard templates. I haven't thrown the glass matting on yet becuase the cardboard wants to tip. After the first layer cures then I can hit it with more resin, put on glass matt, and hit it with another layer..process repeat.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

For everyone that has at least given constructive criticism, who has said "hey I would..because" or "I wouldn't have...because" without being condecending, arrogant, or rude... to everyone that has said "hey, looks nice" "can't wait" subscribed". To everyone with something good to say, even when saying something that could be done different. Thank you all so much! It seems like this will never get done, but you all keep me motivated.


To those of you who think i'm cutting every corner, so far as to say this thing is a hazard to innocent people getting demos once complete. To those that said I messed up bad by choosing to foam instead of doing 2x4's (though this thing has plenty of 2x6's ) without doing so politely. The foam situation has panned out, it needed more time, it has cured. To those that knock my use of duct tape... there is no permentant duct tape other than for my wiring, and what i have used it for other than that thus far has worked great. thanks. For those that think I screwed up by not getting pure copper 0 gauge that cost twice as much ( not the guy from AVS, you have been very helpful man..thank you) For those that think I messed up going with "infinite baffle" drivers ( not the SQ world champ that basically set the parameters for the IB3s ) for those that think its so awful I put the front stage, so to speak..correct or not, in the roof (not you Fallen, we never really cared what you thought anyway














) For those that think it's too much power for the IB3's... well Ive run Lanzar OPTI2000D on them, Hifonics BXi2610D, EP4000, as well as Regent HT-391 showing me just how efficient they can be with no more than 150-200 watts.


For you, well, I'm not gonna use glass matt on the cardboard divider for the 4.5's either...so there! As my boy Fiddy said: I need you to hate. So I can use you for your energy.


But I will use the glass matt where the gap is between the MDF roof and the frame where it meets the windshield


----------



## kryptonitewhite

cracked open that spool of 14 gauge and ran the tweets, 4.5's, and one 6.5 with it and used 3 old for the last three 6.5's. Put some caulk in the corner of the resin for a little extra reinforcement and make sure it stays air tight.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## cubdenno

Oh I am hating alright...



With jealousy!!


Takes balls to just up and do a project like this. Seems like a lot of people forget that a car audio system for most people is for the owners enjoyment.


sure person A says they would do it different or person B thinks you are using the wrong brand. Well I say then great!! When you are doing it in your van then post some pics!!


Hopefully my observations have been taken as pointing out possible future issues. i am a person who will overkill certain items because (Power wiring especially) sometimes it just makes sense. And is potentially safer.


But everything else you are doing, I love it!! It's a hell of an investment you got going there. Depending on where you live, I might have to try to visit and give it a listen!!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I specifically named you cuz youve been a lot of help and I ddnt want you to take offence... and I met you part way, at least I ordered a 2nd roll of the wrong wire

















sioux falls south dakota... I'll try to make your ears pop like your mt. climbing


----------



## kryptonitewhite

2 more wall boards... these 2 fit outside the drivers cuz I'm running outta room between the subs and ceiling support/seat stopper




















yes could have measured out 18.5" but I wanted them centered perfectly





























check..pass






































god i hate cutting im so tired of it. poor giu that one the 21" MX makin that curved box.. f that


----------



## kryptonitewhite

well if they really hate duct tape that bad, im really trying to piss them off now. Now I got BLUE painters tape, a really sloppy resin job..BTW I spilled and dripped it all over my seats and dash and didn't even try to clean it up. so sad. MORE FOAM! Hate on that, cuz Great Stuff loves me







.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

ive got a buddy that bought a car that came with old a/d/s components. the wires on 1 tweet were cut short, none to be seen on the other. my camera is smarter than I am so I take blurry pics... but how do we crack it open to get to the leads?


















































































































































oh and someone pointed out I have a cracked motor..my old sub.. this sucks. I bet I know when it happened too, a bunch of guys were over checkin out my stuff.. 1 was checkin out the basket and showing it off, not very delicately like "oh its blown its all junk now" or something and set it down a bit hard.


MAN that sucks


----------



## kryptonitewhite

so ive got another problem, all 5 wall boards have to go in before I can rebuild the frame behind them, trapping them in.. The front support doesnt leave much room... so 1st in front I have a 2x6 caulked to the floor and screwed, and 2 2x6 supports going from that to the roof holding up he ceiling. They are caulked in place and couldnt be moved anyway because they hold the roof up.


Then 6-8 inches behind that the 2x6 frame needs put in before I can caulk and screw the 5 layers on. That only leaves 1-2" working room. I only have the 2 front baffle boards in so far and I had to pound them in. There's no way to caulk and screw th layers to the frame 1 by one.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

only using PRO from here out, the 375 wont cure.







































got all 5 in, each one needs pounded in place. I could trim them, but then they wouldnt be as strong. Each peace is flimsy now with the 5 holes...but when I pound them in they are stronger with the pressure on them. I can still grab all 5 together and move them by hand though.


Here's the probem. I have all 5 in together. There is no way to separate them, to push 1 layer back against the frame at a time. Each one needs pounded...cant get between to pound. Cant pound the whole thing all at once, needs too much pressure.


So I was considering what someone else suggested..all thread. If the frame were strong enough, which it's not, I'd use it as an anchor and do it like a pulley puller. 4 large bolts, tighten them in a pattern to keep pulling tight. But it would tear the frame apart.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

i think my haters post scared the helpers off. i dont think a lot of people realize there are 3 other forums I post on, so you may not see some of the rude things people say that are not helpful at all. You also may not see how appreciative i try to be to those that are helpful. Yep, now I am down to only 4 forums.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

im so tired of caulk, resin, and foam bathes


----------



## kryptonitewhite

so this **** is hillarious. now yall really got somethin to make fun of me for. so one of my neighbors, who is a framer, was hangin out in the back of the van with me for a while today discussing how to glue the baffles together and how to glue them to the frame.


After a long session, I said "OK. let's break this down. Either I'm going to glue all the baffles together first, then glue the frame in, and there will be an ah-hah moment where I say damn it I should have put the frame in first then the baffles. Or, I'll do the frame and then the baffles and realize I should have dont the baffles first. So I am asking you. Frame first of baffles".


He said he aint takin the blame figure it out your damn self.


So I did the frame. BTW, IT IS FRIGGEN SOLID! I can move all 5 baffle boards by hand easy but I can NOT make the frame budge even at dead center.


So I was layin in bed, imagining putting the subs in. Want to take a guess?


I'll give ya'll a hint: tomorrow I am taking the front seats out and getting a jack in there.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

blessing in disguise, now I can attatch each baffle 1 by one to the frame and that frame is SOLID! Glad I used PL PRO cuz I ony used 1 screw per joint just to hold till the caulk cured. It's not even fully cured and its hard as a rock, yesterday when I was putting the frame in it swiveled and shifted real easy..so its all caulk. Cutting off the excess, some of it's still soft on the outside liquid in the middle.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

im so glad I used foam and not 2x4s, cuz it is hard as a rock, the metal/foam/wood have become 1... a tripple density. I used 11 and 1/2 tubes of PL PRO. The 2x6 frame was already so hard it was crazy, but now..this wall is grenade proof.


If I cut my port down to 10" long... the MDF wall itself is 4" thick, the 2x6 frame runs along it making it 10"... then I'd be tuned to 18.5Hz hahaha. So evben if I cut my port all the way down, bringing it from 85 cubic feet to 95, I still can't get above 18.5Hz hahaha.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQeRCgCJrY4


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijzL3U17GN4


----------



## kryptonitewhite

with all the controversy with using "IB" drivers I thought I'd take a pic of the 1st one in here. There isn't THAT much difference between a "normal" subwoofer, an SPL woofer (burp monster), a SQ subwoofer(home theater sub), and an "IB" driver (Infinite Baffle). The only difference, is an "IB" driver does not have a cone. It does not have a coil. It does not have a surround. It does not have a dust cap. The only soft parts it has is partial tinsel leads and the spyder. The only difference in the motor, hard parts, is the pole piece is pushed to one side in the gap. To acheive this, the 2 slugs have to be separated, usually by a novice on looker who doesn't realize the hard parts are still worth something if it is reconeable so he sets it down a little too hard.


Otherwise, IB subs are exactly the same as any other non IB driver.

















































2 different kinds of screws: star heads and square heads


----------



## kryptonitewhite

you guys with sonotubes, how do you cut the thick stuff? I've got 20" so 1/4" walls..utility knife not as easy on this as the 8" and 12" tube


----------



## kryptonitewhite

the rear chamber is 95 cubic feet after displacement. A 20" port 30" long tunes it to 14.1Hz


The front chamber (if the windows were up and the rear hatch was open) is about 75 cubic feet after driver/passenger displacement. A 20" port 30" long tunes it to 15.97Hz


Here is the impedance plot and excursion plot of the 2


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I forgot to say, I made the 2 cutouts to recess the subs too small on purpose. I cut them a touch small then put the subs in and tried to force them, then spun them so they rubbed where it was extra tight. Then I took a grinding wire wheel and scraped up those areas. I had to use a hammer and chunk of 2x6 to tap/pound each sub in and I didn't even need screws to hold the subs in! That was the idea, I wanted the 2 outter boards to also help hold the weight of the subs...kind of a test for future REAudio XXX 18's. Those things are 80lbs with most of the weight 13" back like Josh, Ricci, said. I drove to Walmart the other day and forgot the sub was still in the wall and I hadn't put any screws in yet! All the stop and goes and turns and it didnt pop out and smoke me in the head! Then when I pulled the basket out and put it in the next hole to tap those screws, each hole the sub gets stuck in there. The basket gets hooked on the edge of the front baffle board and I have to pry it out. Anti-theft in addition to using different screw heads










This pic was right after I dropped screws in, but the screws werent in there when I went across town.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I paid extra to get the Ai-NET cable and the optical cable with the PXA-H701. The optical cable that i got has the same square head with the little knob, fiber optic, on both ends. Apparently I need an adapter to fit the back of the W505?


I was going to pull an all nighter to get the front stage completed... but I don't have the proper cable.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I paid extra to get the Ai-NET cable and the optical cable with the PXA-H701. The optical cable that i got has the same square head with the little knob, fiber optic, on both ends. Apparently I need an adapter to fit the back of the W505?


I was going to pull an all nighter to get the front stage completed... but I don't have the proper cable.


and NO GROMETS! I figure it's gonna blow up from duct tape and foam anyway so what the hell.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

after I turned the deck on with the Ai-NET hooked up, it made the power to the factory speakers via the harness full blast after I clicked the volume from 0 to 1, so I disconnected the factory speakers and installed the front stage. It is in. I set the crossover settings to the PXA. No sound. If I turn it up, I get some sound, but inaudible.


anyway heres a vid of the build so far from earlier today as requested

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yw4eh5RPipc


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18597247
> 
> 
> I paid extra to get the Ai-NET cable and the optical cable with the PXA-H701. The optical cable that i got has the same square head with the little knob, fiber optic, on both ends. Apparently I need an adapter to fit the back of the W505?
> 
> 
> I was going to pull an all nighter to get the front stage completed... but I don't have the proper cable.
> 
> 
> and NO GROMETS! I figure it's gonna blow up from duct tape and foam anyway so what the hell.



seriousely...no help? I'm going out to take more pics and make another vid.. I got a lot done between yesterday at 10AM till this morning at 5AM...I'm up at 11AM again. No more posting here till I get some replies. I know there's a lot of lurkers here...I've gotta be gettn close to 4,000 views now. No help? Please? I can't do anything right now...last night at 5AM I went to walmart and got another RCA last night and ran that from the deck to crossover...still no sound. When I turn the deck up I can kind of hear the song really distorted, so I know somehow it is getting from the deck to the speakers...got to be a setting.


Please?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

ok, I lied, I can't not post...but I know you guys are watching. Will anyone please help?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cn15z3nT9zs


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

OK last nite hooked up the crossover. After hooking it up, the factory speakers became full blast if volume wasn't set to 0. So going from 0 to 1 goes from nothing to full blast. Turning it louder did nothing. Disconnected them and installed speakers with amps.


No sound...well, very quiet and distorted once the volume is set to around 20... can hardly hear it, but it's there, and only thing u can make ou is the beat.


Had alpine dealer look at it today, the W505 does not have optical anymore! **** ME. So he looked at it, couldnt figure it out.


Then we hooked the RCAs strait from deck to 6.5's amp..850.4 they are LOUD. But, the volume does nothing! 0 there is nothing, turn it up to 1, and its full blast, turn up to 35 and back down, does nothing.


Hit the speaker icon button on the main display that usually gives me bass treble and subwoofer, now its MX something or other and its set to 3


----------



## kryptonitewhite

in that 1st vid i had the amps switched to off, now theyre on HP, so the FR125Ss are at 200Hz and the Extremis are at 50Hz. How do I have the crossover tested?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWupbMwyTr4


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHrBzWJkNzs 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5p4QjsgDJY


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR3sRr1R8KE 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fgR7YTlEb4


----------



## kryptonitewhite

by "massive flex" I do mean for 4 6.5's. They were making the roof flex pretty good, obviousely with them using the roof as an enclosure wall... but these things are LOUD and CLEAR and theyre not even close to being crossed over where I want them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-FE6UD1Y5I


----------



## kryptonitewhite

The local shops are telling me the PXA-H701 was only an accessory to certain Alpine decks, that it is the brain for them, so it's not and cant just be used as an external crossover! WTF! I think I'm going to Google Alpine find out where they are and drive there. ***** about the W505 not having optical out first, then ask WTF I gotta do. THIS SUCKS! AND NO SUBS TILL THE FRONT STAGE IS DONE.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

YOUTUBE users, I can't read messages in my inbox. When I click the link it takes me to the inbox, I see the message for a split second, then it disappears. I can't reply or anything. What can I do?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

went back to all 3 local shops again today, 2 of them Authorized Alpine dealers, 2 of 3 had nothing to add, 1 talked to a guy that has just about the same set up, and says the Ai-NET does carry audio as well as data. Im gonna just call Alpine.


----------



## cubdenno

Wait a sec... I use the 701 and the controller as the head unit I have is single din (9884)


There are a couple of switches on the bottom of the head unit I had to flip. I connected to the H701 via ai-net. That sets the system up for external eq (H701) Pg 87 of W505 manual.


Does this help?


----------



## JustBusiness

You need a 9861, or the controller for the H701 (C701). Also, run better grounds. (Ground to structure, not sheet metal) Use a grinder to get to metal, not sand paper. For lighter power this might work okay, but for 12,000 watts, probably not.


I just flipped through your pictures mostly. Are you planning on competing? What format/class/rules? If IASCA, you've got a LOT of work to do. Even if not, following their guidelines is a good idea for a nice, safe, properly working system.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18619880
> 
> 
> Wait a sec... I use the 701 and the controller as the head unit I have is single din (9884)
> 
> 
> There are a couple of switches on the bottom of the head unit I had to flip. I connected to the H701 via ai-net. That sets the system up for external eq (H701) Pg 87 of W505 manual.
> 
> 
> Does this help?



my w505 manual only has 27 pages.


On page 25 it showes a normal and eq/div switch. I looked several times and couldnt find it. looked again, its on the bottom! ILL GO TRY AGAIN! If it works, Im sorry, Im not guy, but I love you!


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18619880
> 
> 
> Wait a sec... I use the 701 and the controller as the head unit I have is single din (9884)
> 
> 
> There are a couple of switches on the bottom of the head unit I had to flip. I connected to the H701 via ai-net. That sets the system up for external eq (H701) Pg 87 of W505 manual.
> 
> 
> Does this help?



cubdenno, I owe you a beer or three! YOUVE DONE IT! Thank you a million times. Flip of a switch. I will now put the alt and subs in! Thank you!~


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I gave some misinformation, as this was made for my facebook users that could care less that tecnically you are never distortion free...but its a good enough generalization for people who dont really care. what i posted on my FB:

I have so many people asking "why are your speakers so distorted?" They're not. The microphone can't handle how loud they are. Car running raises the voltage of the batteries from 12.7 volts to 14.4 volts... forgot to finish explaining why I had it running for the vid, to give the amp more voltage..FOOD.. to make more power for the speakers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0Oxm6PJ-cw


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFcFpMy1RPw 


Bass, I Love You! Opus Dei, and Katie


----------



## kryptonitewhite

already got the cops called for the 6.5's what they gonna do when the 18's are bouncing them off their couch? the cops loved it though, couldnt believe the setup!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKXxDJ3vU98


----------



## kryptonitewhite

idky this one didnt show up, most imnportant pic of the day


----------



## kryptonitewhite




















































































__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## kryptonitewhite

dude I get stared at everywhere! my windows up or down, their windows up or down, all the way across parking lots, 2 blocks away...


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

THANK YOU CUBDUNNO!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BeDIQbnsg


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18626921
> 
> 
> THANK YOU CUBDUNNO!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BeDIQbnsg



EHHH??? What did I do now???


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18632535
> 
> 
> EHHH??? What did I do now???



?? are you kidding me?


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18635183
> 
> 
> ?? are you kidding me?



Ahhh. Read that at work. Video link didn't show. Just glad I was able to help!!


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18636346
> 
> 
> Ahhh. Read that at work. Video link didn't show. Just glad I was able to help!!



im not kidding man, the whole project was on hold for a week cuz no one would/could help


so thank you...now im movin forward again!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

errr day, got 3 different cars helpin other people do their stuff


had 2 pull the 6.5's and foam some more....these things move too much air! Ripple too much sheet metal!





























and babysat my nice, hadda put her to work!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

cant tell, but silver in front, gold in back


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

So I started with the crossover set to:

Tweets HP 10kHz, LP 20k

4.5's 250Hz-14k

6.5's 50Hz-250Hz


I played with the tweets even HP at 14k for a while, had the 6.5's HP from 50,56,63, and 71Hz.


I revamped, brought the tweets down to 4kHz, the 4.5's LP up to 710, and the 6.5's up to 710.


Totally different. Over all, much louder. The 6.5's aren't acting like subwoofers anymore, the tweeters are actually contributing now, and it's a whole new ball game. The subwoofer...er the mid-woofers aren't near as loud as in thumpin and flexin and poundin, but theyre louder bringing up the 250Hz-710 range significantly.


So now I'm kind of getting muddy and confused and lost, Ive never had any experience going active before, only tons of research, free internet self education. I don't know when I'm making things betetr or worse anymore, sometimes it seems like it's a great SQ system for what it is, sometimes it seems terrible. Sometimes it still seems loud as hell, I am always getting looks, gawked at, and chicks breaking out into dance from 2 blocks away..but sometimes it just seems weak as hell for what it is.


I can't tell up from down, in from out anymore!


So right now, I am at:

TW 4k-20k

MR 710-4k

MW 50-710


I am thinking that I will bump the MW up from 50Hz to 63Hz, 71Hz, or even 80Hz once the subs are in. I think SQ guys are hard set on getting the front down to 50Hz for up front bass? I'm not sure. But I think once I have the SUB woofers in, I know I should cross them at 50Hz, but I think they will still drown out any sub 80Hz material from the 6.5's no matter how well they do.


IDK???


----------



## cubdenno

Up the midbass crossover. 80-100 hertz is fine. You can play with the slopes. it will give you better power handling. I am not surprised you found the system sounding better with the revamped Xover points. Those 4's and tweets really needed it. Up front bass is a function of your midbass drivers along with vibration reduction. Mostly of panels that cause localization.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

alright so I'll try

TW 4k-20k

MR 710-4k

MB 80/100-710!








thank you again!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I went up to 80 for a while and it was much better. Then I played around and 63 is clearly too low, they lose punch/kick and seem like they would be overtaken by the subs too much. Up to 80 and I lose to much overall down low. 71 is the sweet spot!


Thanks!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

So I've been working on a pre-emtive plan for noise tickets: was gonna go to court when I get my 1st ticket, explain that I'm not here to say I wasn't too looud or don't deserve a ticket, but that I want our local law changed. Right now it is if they hear you over 50 feet away. So if I live at the end of a park, with a football field, there's kids at the other end..over 300 feet away, will they get a ticket if I can hear them? Speeding is measured in MPH. Sound should be in SPL. What if I play 10Hz test tones full bore? I will be fully capable of single digits in the van... you can't hear it from 5 feet away, let alone 50 feet.


I understand that no one wants to hear systems bumbing by their house all hours of the day. I am generally not the guy that drives by houses in neighborhoods at 3AM. But I will not say I have never ever done it or never ever will again.


How about on main roads during the day? Trucks are loud. Motorcycles are loud. Horns are loud. But there has to be some limits, some freedoms.


Anyway, I shook one off already today, yes just for my front stage..waiting on wire to install HO alt and subs. He was going the other way on our bussiest street, he turned around and got behind me. I quick did a lane change, he did the same, then I turned off fast, he blew past me and took the next turn, so I ditched him.


Then, later, my neighbor wanted me to play her a song..a weak ass song, and, now that my crossover's are set to 71Hz... they are nothing like they were before for thumping... but a cop came. He was cool, we ********ted with him for a while, showed him the system, and I explained my feelings on the 50ft rule. Explained I am not fighting the fact that if I am too loud, something should be done, but I think it needs changed from feet to DeciBels. I said what can you do then if I do 10Hz? He said then theyd have to charge me for disorderly conduct, no longer a ticket but an arrest. He sdaid don't wait for a ticket and try my luck explaining to judge, thats hit and miss, go to the city council.


anyway


got the dash back on now that the deck is secured. Needs prettied up.





















carpet in


----------



## cubdenno

Anything new?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Hey everyone, I am back...I don't get internet back on till wednessday, wed night I'll try to get caught up on email and posts. I got my 2nd spool of 0 gauge, so I'll be getting the alt in ASAP. WOW my ears are numb... front stage is still killer, tweaked a little more, and still turning heads all over town.


Also, I made some posts on a few forums a while back about enclosures getting so large that the port no longer functions properly. I was repeatedly told WinISD is right..no matter how big, the port still works and still yeilds a larger gain. Well my 2 IB3 18's off 2 EP4000's aren't much louder in 256 cubes than the single one in 22 cubes off 2 walmart HTIAB amps... so I'll be cutting the towers down too.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18762196
> 
> 
> Anything new?



nope, youre still the man for solving the switch issue tho!


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/18771627
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I made some posts on a few forums a while back about enclosures getting so large that the port no longer functions properly. I was repeatedly told WinISD is right..no matter how big, the port still works and still yeilds a larger gain. Well my 2 IB3 18's off 2 EP4000's aren't much louder in 256 cubes than the single one in 22 cubes off 2 walmart HTIAB amps... so I'll be cutting the towers down too.



To be honest, I was curious if that phenomena wouldn't occur. You might look into Pete kulicki's site and maybe order a print(I know... Spending more of your money.) I own 5 enclosure designs. He has his detractors. And there are some guys who hug his nuts so tight I think Pete's voice should squeak. But in every case i have seen and used, he has used science to back up his results. They have been the best money I have spent regarding sub bass. Just my $0.02.


Glad to see you are still here. I will be posting my son's install here soon. We are gearing up. Still buying parts. nickel and diming us to death!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

still no internet, no time to reply....but I will when i can. Did the Big 3 today and got the alt in..I had a little alt whine before, now I got a lot







but all my grounds are solid. BTW while the van sat 3 weeks, when I came back it was still sitting at 12.7V










I put a ground directly on the alt bolt to the chassis, another ground, same spot, on the alt to the negative terminal on the front batt, did 2 runs posative alt to posative on front batt. So get another toggle switch and run the deck constant and deck ignition to rear batts???


putting subs in NOW!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Steve Meade, you're a FREAK. And all you other dudes out there with 4 or more hardcore subs like BTLs Wardens DD and the like. These little IB3's are pretty loud, only using about 1/3rd excursion. Internet hopefully tomorrow, then I can get caught up.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

I need more power for the amps! So all those s-10/Astro guys out there with the 4.3l... who has multiple alts? I think I want to pull the AC compressor and mount 2 there if I can make/find a bracket. I think I have voltage drop. I have an Iraggi 220 (160-200 amps @ idle). My lights fade a little when it hits hard, and, the subs run pretty hot...so I think the amps are clipping due to voltage drop.


So I loved it for a while without building a back wall, the rear doors don't get hammered on at all... but today I finally see that the roof and sides have massive flex... the foam and MDF worked, all 3 move separately, but each piece moves as a whole... it's pretty insane seeing how all 3 are separate solid pieces but the roof isn't connected to the sides with any reinforcement. So I got more 2x6's so I can build a frame for the back today.


Without the back wall, I am at 103 cu ft after displacement so I had a 13.5Hz tune. I cut the port down from 30" to 19" for a 15.5Hz tune. I'm gonna put the back wall in, reducing enclosure volume, raising the tuning, and adding rear support. The front is completely solid, the wall has zero flex, but in the back, there's just nothing connecting the side walls to the roof.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/18774884
> 
> 
> To be honest, I was curious if that phenomena wouldn't occur. You might look into Pete kulicki's site and maybe order a print(I know... Spending more of your money.) I own 5 enclosure designs. He has his detractors. And there are some guys who hug his nuts so tight I think Pete's voice should squeak. But in every case i have seen and used, he has used science to back up his results. They have been the best money I have spent regarding sub bass. Just my $0.02.
> 
> 
> Glad to see you are still here. I will be posting my son's install here soon. We are gearing up. Still buying parts. nickel and diming us to death!



Im pretty sure it does! Im making the van box smaller today too! It'll go down to about 70 cubic feet, 19.5Hz tuning.


I used to talk to Pete a lot. I baught one of his XX-Colossus amps, baught a T-Box design for an S15L7, and he was going to give me a design modification for my old wall. He's a great guy!


I know what you mean by nickel/dimin to death, people ask what I've got into the system and I have no idea... but the non-stereo equipment is probably more than the equip itself!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

so can the IB3's out gas? I got brave and turned the sub control up from 2 to 5 and they were fine. I think when they were new they had to out gas, cuz they stunk a little..but I think Im ok now?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6W_sq2bn80 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRhIVSbJRF4


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

dude sitting in the port

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR5ts-HSxfU 


me in the box


----------



## kryptonitewhite

DB-Audio made this track, 19Hz, 15Hz, and 13Hz I believe. 50 cubic feet, 23Hz tune, massive air flow through a 20" port. The caulk at the edge of the wall was not the air leak, it's coming from around the sub.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdBvHjuN9FQ 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zha3B3cKmyg 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dttvq3bD1Z0


----------



## kryptonitewhite

DB-Audio 30Hz.. email me to get it kryptonitewhite at hotmail

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2Gs82ZQULA 


opus dei


i cant believe how well the camera was able to pick up the subsonics..youre not gonna get them with your PC/HT speakers, but my dual IB3 18's in 128 cubic feet each, 12" ports tuned to 14Hz off two EP4000's does at my house!









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIY5y8OIiQQ


----------



## kryptonitewhite

So the KX850.4 over heats now with the rear wall up. I reconnected my AC compressor and it works, so I need to keep it, fix the rear AC fan and replace the resistor and coil that I set on fire a few months back, cut a hole on each side of the box, and run the AC through.. suck in from 1 side and blow through the other. I need another alt, so I'll have to find out how to mount it backwards near the AC compressor. Got more work ahead!


The 13Hz-19Hz track blows the hot air right out! Its crazy.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

trying to do a hair trick with DB Audio's 13Hz-19Hz sweeps, it was driving this chick CRAZY! She wouldnt stick her head by the window and it was already blowing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaKAVr9D0DM


----------



## kryptonitewhite

my buddy, 6'2" 240LBS, crawled into the box to check the amp when it shut off!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

this is as hard and loud as she gets... see how loud she is from 20 feet away or so? IDK how..but the camera makes it look like the mirror is barely moving..even when I was watching the screen while recording... but you cant see anything in the mirror when it hits, it moves so far

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLArtAkbevM


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Youre all gonna FREAK, but, I dropped my sub's LP from 71Hz to 31.6Hz hehehe and I LOVE it..now we gettn somewhere! That's right, i got a huge hole from 31Hz-71Hz and I LOVE IT!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

with the completion and success of the curved sealed box for the mx21 give away... I am pouting, trying to figure out a way to modify my van and two towers to accomodate 21's. But the van is bullet proof. If a nuke went off in my van, if anything survived, it would be the wall. If only I could have gotten that price offering back in feb/march!




Any ideas? I don't think it's feasable. I know how I could have made 4 fit in the van from scratch, but I just cant see making them go now.



http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...238601&page=17


----------



## kryptonitewhite

alright, thanks to Jamel, titodagod, I got a line driver on the tweets and now they tweet! My batt lights been coming on, hopefuly just a slipping belt. If so, if I can get a cheap bracket and another alt or 2, then so what...tackle it together. Bad alt? Then IDK what..I don't wanna pull it, it took me a full day to get it in there. I got some more foam, the leak on the passenger side was a blessing in disguise. When I went to burp on the TL it almost ripped my driver side door off, you can hear the TL guy comment on it, but the passenger side was a lot better.. cuz that foam makes it hard to open/shut that door. When I used to bump hard, I could hear the door rattle and watch it breathe. So I made a little pouch on my side and filled it with foam. Im gonna rip the speakers out tonight and foam the roof, hope that stops the terrible flex. I still have alt whine, the line driver is boosting the whine...so it must not be the amp power wires or RCAs picking it up. Crossover? But the crossover is wired to one of the rear batteries as well as the line driver now.


anyway more lame pics and another lame vid.






































VID

YouTube - line driver tweets tweet and widwoofs woof.AVI 


VID


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Got the alt and betteries tested today, alt fail. drops to 12 volts and 99 amps










I have so much roof flex from those tough little guys, I ripped out the foam padding the best I could and now Im hitting it with expanding. Heind site 20/20 if I'd have done this to begin with my roof would be solid, but, it flexes terribly... not just the sheet metal up top, but the wood false roof inside...so i know I lose dBs. owell.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




----------



## kryptonitewhite

foam done, much better. I think the pole vents are a little obstructed as theres some motor noise on some tracks, but it's so loud you cant really hear it...its masked. I turned the crossover point even higher on the tweets therfore gain up more too... sounds awesome, but now I have a lot of noise from the HU when it's quiet. God I am pissed they stopped putting optical outs on the W505 and I didnt know it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Fj4z3WU-So


----------



## xsesve

that is so awesome


I need a better speaker system in my car.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xsesve* /forum/post/19149127
> 
> 
> that is so awesome
> 
> 
> I need a better speaker system in my car.



Thanks, keep us posted if you start a project!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

ordered another pair of Vifa XT25TG30s, gonna run them parallel 2 ohms stereo. Looking for another KX850.4 to run 2 Extremis bridged per amp. I used PL PRO to put over the duct taped foam to keep the doors from flexing so bad after I get another HO alt and 4 new subs. I sold 2, working on selling 2 more, and gonna recone the 2 that are totally blown. Or might sell the 2 totally blown that i already cut apart and keep the 2 in the HT that I have in there now cuz they work just fine but Id rather dual 2 ohm to run the EP4000s at 4 ohm, instead of dual 4s running them at 8 ohms right now...though they are plenty more than I really need anyway.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

got the tweets today, sounds awesome


----------



## kryptonitewhite

cut the fiberglass out about a week ago and have applied several layers of PL PRO. Got an SX500.2 for the tweets today too. I may have to sell the 200.2 and 350.4 and get yet another 850.4 to go bridged 2 X 8ohm


----------



## kryptonitewhite

i think this is my last coat. Ill give it a few days to thoroughly dry then trim it up. maybe Ill keep it this way cuz its so fun how ugly it is.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

just picked up a KX650.4 for the 4.5's... 8ohm X 2 bridged


----------



## kryptonitewhite

this little guy is for two little CSS FR125S 4.5" full range drivers, but they will only have to cover 310Hz-14k


----------



## kryptonitewhite

and another one of these cuz 1 jus aint enuff


----------



## kryptonitewhite

initial impressions, weak for going from 175 per driver to 425. After initial disapointment, very pleased. Sounds SO much better, is louder. Still overheating! LOL. wow. so I gotta work out a new arangement and fans.


I went from 310Hz up to 710Hz, cuz now I have the power to do it. I was clipping before even when only 100-310. Sounds SO much betetr and louder that way and its noteably easier on the 4.5's now doing 710-14k.


always gain match! I eyeballed them and set them the same, and had 1 driver stink and get warm and the one next to it was cold. The DMM gave one 33 volts and the other 20! Thats HUGE!





























hopefully the 500.2 will get here tomorrow, will do the 650.4 tomorrow.


----------



## cubdenno

Not surprised the change in power was uneventful. My reasoniong is that the first 50-100 watts are the most important. Even for subs. After that you are doubling power to get those 3 db's. Still not sure why you are over heating but not having your system under my hands... No way of really knowing.


Want to really get some changes in output? Go pro-audio. Quit messing around with inefficient speakers. they are rated accurately, handle power better, are louder with the same power and less distortion. And in a lot of cases are cheaper. Guy I know just put Pyle (yes I know but their pro audio stuff isn't bad) 10's in his door of his tahoe. On 500 watts playing 70-1200K. And he has B&C horns running 1200 and up. LOUD.


I just got the OK from the wife to swap door speakers to B&C 8 Neo's. I will run them 80 to 2k and my tweets 2k and up. At some point I might go 3 way again, but that is down the road.


Again... Think high Efficiency drivers if you are wanting to get really loud and handle all that power you are supplying...


BTW, what's the update on subs?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

wish ya wouldda told me that before I got all these expensive drivers :-/


gotta get a bracket and alts before I put subs in.


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/19257096
> 
> 
> wish ya wouldda told me that before I got all these expensive drivers :-/
> 
> 
> gotta get a bracket and alts before I put subs in.



Well you never asked. it was always. "I am gonna go crazy and install a bajillion watts, a hundred speakers and a big ass ported enclosure with a big ass port.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

WOW. My front stage is now what I thought it would be before the last months upgrades. The tweets are loud as hell and sound how I wanted with this SX500.2 with it's HP set to 13.5k/36dB and the PXA at 12.5/30dB. The 4.5's off this 650.4 are so much louder and run a touch cooler, not that it was too warm to begin with but I was afraid to give them any more before. Good thing I didnt cuz if theyre getting more now but yet running cooler, they were most likely getting a clipped signal. The Extremis really need to be crossed at 710Hz, any lower and they get real muddy and over bearing. I am so extremely pleased now! Thank you everyone for all of your help!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

So after learning a bit from my 10 cube 35Hz box, I got to thinking again, which got me to worrying... is the IB3 a good choice for what I want? So I played with WinISD some more... wishing I had the Maelstrom-X 18 plug in, but using the Fi Q instead.


My FR ( not taking cabin gain into consideration) looks TERRIBLE! As I recalled that it did when I first started planing on the build. The BTL curve is what I want, but it shows I need much much more power to get it on the same playing field. But isn't the BTL much more efficient?











RED is the BTL... if it were up higher but same curve, THAT is what I want.

GREEN is next best, more output from 25Hz on down ( wait, there's no 25Hz down content in music, so the IB3 wins!) a little wider, lower, flatter than the IB3

YELLOW is the IB3, the most output from 25Hz on up in my application.


To try to level the field, I'll add a HP 4th order Linkwitz at 20Hz then give them all as much power as I need to get them to 40mm


BTL 52,000 watts

IB3 15,600 watts ( they can take that all day long easy if it's unclipped. really. I do it all the time!)

Q 19,000 watts (but isnt it more efficient than the IB3 too?)












The BTL is what I want out of the group, it keeps on going from 35Hz down to 20Hz! it just takes 36,400 more watts to do it?


----------



## cubdenno

can you send me those speaker files? I want too play with them a bit. Are you using Win ISD pro alpha?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

front stage complete, made another vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCb3uEJRqFs


----------



## kryptonitewhite

just bought a 200idle/300A peak from Nathan at EA!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

just ordered four recones


----------



## kryptonitewhite

just ordered a 50 foot spool of ott and 24oz recone glue... dropped a grand tonight :-/


----------



## kryptonitewhite

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydA5JVaafsc 


dropped the crossover from 100Hz to 80Hz, made a huge difference. Much more depth in vocals a lot more kick/punch/slam. Turned the tweeter gain up 2dB. Much more dynamic. The camer cant pick the tweets up, 12kHz on up, the treble you can hear is from the FR125S's. Love my girlfriends smile


----------



## kryptonitewhite

why would the 500.2 be getting hot only running 4 tweeters? I checked power and ground...solid. WTF?!


----------



## cubdenno

I would be looking at voltage at the amp while you play. Another thing is to check how warm the amp gets with zero load. Unplug the speakers and let it just receive the signal. Get some sort of basis to compare. Some amps JUST GET HOT. I agree though, running 4 tweeters @12.5k and up, we are talking about what, 20 watts? 100 on peaks. If you lived closer, I would come over with my various thermocouples and we could watch the heat output of your amps under load.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I think I *only* have 8 gauge on it, but possibly 4. But theyre less than 2' long, amp sits right above the battery. I'll take my DMM to it, and, I'll hmmm... LOOK AT THE FREAKIN TEMP ON THE DIGITAL DISPLAY! lol. I was thinbking about that last nite, I didn't even look










The twp 850.4s get hot as well, but they are bustin their butts... the 650.4 stays very cool as expected.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

got the recones, I am worried I have activator all over them but IDK? The box stank bad when I got it so i ripped it open quick, there was a small amount soaked intot the top of the cardboard box, some all over the plastic wrapper that went around all 4 cones, i felt and looked quickly at the recones..quick inspection, no time to even pull them apart yet... the black bottle seems full, the clear bottle 1/2 empty, but thats my personality, maybe it was only supposed 2 be 1/2??


----------



## sirsloop

LMFAO... I can't get over it dude... there's like expanding foam coming out of every nook, cranny, window, and speaker!!! HAHAH!!! Its outrageously awesome yet outrageously slimer looking. You should call the van GOOBER or something wacky like that


----------



## kryptonitewhite

my woman is teasing me that everything in my house is covered in foam. my clothes, dishes, floors, its everywhere. and where it's not, then theres caulk or resin!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I wish the window sticker was green, and I hope this is the same bolt pattern as BLADE I.C.E.'s


300A from Nate at EXCESSIVEAMPERAGE.COM


----------



## kryptonitewhite




kryptonitewhite said:


> well I used the 50 bucks I saved on wire and got a hydro crimper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there's a dude on www.carstereoforum.net doing 4 DP21s 4th order that sent me a link t get it. My window started acting up so i put in a new motor yesterday. I pulled the dash to see how I'm gonna customize it to get the Alpine to fit...man it's a tight squeeze. I knew all along once I popped the dash open I'd have to look and see if i could do the front stage in it again..but nope, a HUGE aluminum plate. Good. The roof build will be easy and simple. Started working on the false roof and started the bracing for the wall... 2 layers of 2x6... will make a # sign too with 2 supports up and down and 2 side to side going between subs and port. oh, and I got a fish tank pump and hose... i drilled a bunch of holes in both sides the other day and let it sit..nothing has happened...so I'll leave that on overnight and see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sure as ****, as soon as I decided to put the false doors on I knew Id have to re-replace this one or the other side. this POS failed already, doin the same as the old one. now I gotta figure out how to dremel drill it out, replace it, and patch it. **** this.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

tested the Extremis 6.4's too, THEYRE GOOD!

YouTube - extremis 25hz test.AVI


----------



## kryptonitewhite

no more rattles no blown driver


----------



## kryptonitewhite

it looks like ass, but it sounds wicked awesome. I think ill keep them at 50Hz. Sounds like I got a 10" in there. The new tweets sound different than the old tweets, made in a different country, but I cant tell with the other speakers on.



How can I aprximate cabin gain for my fr? some sort of 6 or 12dB slope? If I ever hit big I am getting four 2kW amps, 1 per Extremis. Them bitches suck up everything and I can easily make the 850's clip HARD and the Extremis arent even breaking a sweat.


----------



## cubdenno

Well... From what I am seeing, of course your extremis are not breakin a sweat. They are in what? A liter of air space each? Know why sub manufacturers want tiny boxes? Because it raises power handling(Same concept here). Not necessarily power compression though. There is only so much heat sink capacity on those little woofers. They will heat up fast in those tiny spaces.


Here's how you can gangsta check cabin gain.


Build a small enclosure for a sub. Sealed.


Set outside somewhere quiet. Take a measurement while playing pink noise with True RTA.


Now do the same thing inside your vehicle. Look at the measurement now compared to the outside . The difference is your cabin gain.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

right on, will take a bit before I do all hat. too cold! I brought them up to 71Hz, no more clipping, louder, harder hitting, and deeper vocals


----------



## kryptonitewhite

my subwoofer FR curve prediction in WinISD using LR to simulate cabin gain


----------



## kryptonitewhite

got the four 18's today for the VAN, decided to put them in the towers cuz I am getting serious buzzing I hope the new gaskets will cure, and my reconing job was as pretty as my speaker stands


----------



## chrapladm

Man thats alot pics to go through.......LOL


I miss my 12 x 6W6. Used to have another car that for along time was a SQ car and miss that also.


Last time I helped with a van build we did six twelves and three 18's. I remember my friends cavalier we stuffed in four kicker comp 15's in the back, and that was loud. I hate to see how loud this was.


Post 182 looks like Edgerin James the NFL running back.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

12 x 6W6?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

eight http://creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-ERT26-data-260310.pdf to replace four https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=1181 ?


I have four XT25TG30s off an SX500.2 running 2 ohms parallel each side. I am running them 66dB/oct from 14k-20k. They arent nearly enough to keep up with the FR125Ss and Extremis. Whats about four of the ERT26s parallel/parallel per side?


----------



## cubdenno

I have said it before, I will say it again. In my opinion, you are NOT running those RR's correctly. I will have to find the article, but it describes how much information in music is above 10k. Those vifa's have a sensitivity of 91.5db. The CSS are 92db. All you will gain is 3 db by doubling the speakers. So my point is that I can't understand how in the holy nature of God that 4 of those Vifa's are not keeping up with your system a foot away from your ears. You might save the money you were thinking of spending on the CSS tweets and invest in some horns that have a 100+ db 1w/1m and use them.


My thinking on this is the "reason" they are not keeping up is because you are feeding them such tiny amounts of information there is nothing to produce. And at 66db/oct slopes(not sure I understand that slope) there is NO info under 14k under that.


Since you use the H701 make a preset that utilizes these crossover points.


Midbass 80-600-ish 24db/oct slopes (I forget the alpine crossover point. I think 640)


Midrange 640-4000 24db/oct Again, I am in Durant Oklahoma working so I don't have my 701 in front of me. So bare with me on the crossover points. Just get close to what I put down.


tweets 4000 up 24db/oct


Give it a listen. Your tweeters should overpower everything. Thats when you turn down the gain to level match with the midranges.Also music formats will also dictate the amount of info in the recording. If you are using mp3's or whatever in a lower bit rate (under 192) Don't expect a lot of highs or lows. That algorithm cuts a ton of info out. Use a CD with a good quality recording that has all the octaves represented. If you need a good test song, let me know.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

when I bring the tweeters down they do get loud but I don't like it. I don't like 3kHz-14Khz from them at all, it's too loud and I have to turn the tweets way down when I do that and then I can hardly hear 14k on up anymore. I get more 3kHz-14kHz from the FR125S than I need. I know the issue is the bandwidth...I agree that there's little info up that high to begin with, yet I can't turn them up louder when I can definitely hear them playing what is up there. I can go click by click and hear them start to break up playing those really high frequencies. As I drop the crossover slopes lower, I can make them crack up too. Basically, I have them maxed out playing 14K on up right now. If I turn them up louder they break up. When I lower the crossovers I have to turn the gains down proportionately or they break up as well. If I set them to 3k instead of 14k, I still get 14k on up but not as much, but then I have a ton of 3k-14k...and I dont like it.


Simply put, I don't like mid range and I dont like low treble. I have the FR12Ss turned way down to blend in with the rest...If I were to quadrouple on 6.5's and 1"... 16 tweeters and 16 Extremis... I could turn the 4.5's up plenty to keep up. Seriousely if I redid the front stage with 16 Extremis and 16 tweets, Id still only use two FR125Ss. But I hate 710Hz-14kHz. I enjoy 14k on up so much. But I cant get that range loud.


Right now I am at 80Hz-710 for Extremis. Sometimes I drop them down for fun. 710-14k for FR125Ss. They play up to 16k but 14k on up is not enough from them... and of course not, if the four vifa's arent enough. I very well may get horns instead down the road if I can afford them. I bumped into those $13 tweets last night looking for HT surrounds


----------



## cubdenno

OK, I understand your dislikes. Have you played with either of the eq's to boost and cut the frequencies you like and dislike?


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Im affraid of EQ. I like weird extremes...I thought I was going too far with my low end extremes: four 18's, 55 cubic feet, 22Hz tune, 31.5Hz LP.... and this 14kHz problem










If I can muster up some more cash, what do you recommend for a super tweeter? BTW I checked my power wires on the SX500.2 and I have 4 gauge on it, solid connects... the amp gets pretty warm...so decpite there not being much 14k on up material, I fixed that with a PG line driver a lonng time ago... I'm putting out plenty of power, its got to be that it's just that hard to hear 14k on up vs how loud the rest is? IDK..Ill give the other tweeters a try though if you think it's a good idea.


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/19819532
> 
> Im affraid of EQ. I like weird extremes...I thought I was going too far with my low end extremes: four 18's, 55 cubic feet, 22Hz tune, 31.5Hz LP.... and this 14kHz problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can muster up some more cash, what do you recommend for a super tweeter? BTW I checked my power wires on the SX500.2 and I have 4 gauge on it, solid connects... the amp gets pretty warm...so decpite there not being much 14k on up material, I fixed that with a PG line driver a lonng time ago... I'm putting out plenty of power, its got to be that it's just that hard to hear 14k on up vs how loud the rest is? IDK..Ill give the other tweeters a try though if you think it's a good idea.



YOU are afraid of EQ????!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! !!!!!!!!!!!


The guy who has created a spray foam work of art? The same guy who has w4 18's in his home theater in what looks like a bedroom? And you are saying that playing with sliders scares you?



Dude, Come on.. I know we can get past this issue.


Go ahead, adjust 14k. Give it a small boost. I won't tell....


----------



## kryptonitewhite

lol cub Ive already blown a pair of tweets. The initial two I installed are from the old build house and werent loud enough, so i ordered 2 more pair. Right away I knew something was amiss... the two new tweeters sounded louder and lower. Suddenly they were raspy. I emailed Madisound and they said there's a new build house in a new country and parameters may have shifted enough to be audible. I ordered two replecements of the newer tweeters, same thing... much louder and lower... so i backed my gains down and left it alone. My line driver is effectively like EQing 14k-20k as it is, no?


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/19831611
> 
> 
> lol cub Ive already blown a pair of tweets. The initial two I installed are from the old build house and werent loud enough, so i ordered 2 more pair. Right away I knew something was amiss... the two new tweeters sounded louder and lower. Suddenly they were raspy. I emailed Madisound and they said there's a new build house in a new country and parameters may have shifted enough to be audible. I ordered two replecements of the newer tweeters, same thing... much louder and lower... so i backed my gains down and left it alone. My line driver is effectively like EQing 14k-20k as it is, no?



No its not. All a line driver does is increase the signal level (in volts) to your amp effectively allowing you to turn down the gain of your amp. It is not an EQ.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

but 1st Im crossing over so I am only boosting a bandwidth, IDK about Q and all that...







jk jk


----------



## kryptonitewhite

alright I turned the tweets back up, I was being overly cautious after the new pair blew...we TWEETIN!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

made another vid of the setup, people at SSA are wondering how the hell I'm doin 1700 on the Extremis

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0TxcrsKP04


----------



## kryptonitewhite

CUBDENNO! It's done! They are TWEETIN! I finally opened her up today and drove for an hour, as Ive been cautiousely sticken it to em since I fixed everything. I think it's safe to finally say my front stage is complete. Finito. And I am es-static!










After some new threads today, I think I am more than pleased with my sub stage as well. I caught a lotta static for my 148 @ 25Hz considering cone area and walled, but today 90% of the feedback when I asked "what will it take to do 150s @ 25Hz" pretty much showed everyone was just hating or not figuring 25Hz. Ive been mostly told $14,000-$20,000 and lots of trial/error/testing. Im going through receipts and going to figure as best I can of what I spent. Sub wise, no trial and error at all. Inception to delivery.


Thanks again for all your help bud!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

got a flash of war weather, finally had to bie the bullet





















































'



































































denno, did I mention I am TWEETIN?!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

waiting


----------



## cubdenno

hey! forgot to ask. Are you tweeting yet?


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno* /forum/post/19920342
> 
> 
> hey! forgot to ask. Are you tweeting yet?



SO tweetin! They sound so amazing, way too high for the average bear, but the FR125s sure fill it in nicely. I love the transition, but Im sure as far as SQ comps go, I'd fail


----------



## kryptonitewhite

cant wait to install this 300A EA


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I can't wait anymore, I'm gonna throw the subs back in and do my best to keep them down till i can get the other alt in. I got some desoldering braid, but after looking at the leads, screw it... i just bent them all a different way


----------



## bigbarney

Get a de-soldering pump... they cost maybe $15 and they're much better.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbarney* /forum/post/19991541
> 
> 
> Get a de-soldering pump... they cost maybe $15 and they're much better.










wish I would have known they are purposely cut too long to begin with!


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notnyt* /forum/post/19989266
> 
> 
> The point of many drivers is to increase sensitivity and decrease distortion and excursion. If I need more power, I can double up on amps. I'd rather be limited on power than on drivers, it's a much better place to be in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it's already incredibly loud, so not really worried.



I get it now. I couldn't take it anymore so I put the subs back in the van and MADE myself listen to it at a single *normal* listening volume, rather than peaking things out song to song. Now on everything I get so very little excursion, sounds amazing no matter what, and it's still 2 clicks louder than it needs to be for most everything. I actually made it through 30 plus songs without touching the volume knob and only had one * oh my friggen.... thats just ridiculous * moment and reset the sub 1 final time and it's been great since. Cone area cone area cone area. Now I get that my Xmax is a * waste * from an I'll never use 1/2 of it point of view. I'm in no rush to get the 2nd alternator in anymore.


I'm copy pasting this to both of my van build logs


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Even after the caulk/resin/foam door jam to keep the door from opening and shutting from the subs, still get a little door flex yet. It's so hard to open and close the doors that the handles are breaking off.


I just couldnt wait to add the 2nd alt anymore, put the subs in, instead of "saving power" by setting the LP way down at 31.5Hz I set it way up at 100Hz and added P-EQ at 22Hz with +7dB with a Q of 1... perfect! So much louder yet so much easier on the alt...and no more excursion issues!


bassotronics make it drop the van is alive mad window flex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv3RrhMFx0c


----------



## kryptonitewhite

at the end of this video you see that even after the caulk/resin/foam jams I made, even with the windows down part way (it's much worse with the windows all the way up), the subs still flex the doors open far enough to see inside/outside the van with the doors shut all the way










at first the 7"ers and 4.5"ers are on for a split second, but I turned them off right away to show they are moving from the subs, later in I turn them back on



opus dei mad window mirror door seat flex despite caulk foam resin door jam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiwo6uhg53w


----------



## kryptonitewhite

bass i love you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA5rs76ts18


----------



## kryptonitewhite

after making those subsonic vids, crazy thing happened. I was listening today lower than usual yet really low songs were much louder than usual. subs broke in. I dont understand how some people dont believe in driver break in, I have the softest suspension you can get: single soft spider and single layer surround. I had the crossover at 100Hz and P-EQ at 22Hz Q of 1 +7dB, now I am LP at 200Hz (lost my highs after break in) and brought the P-EQ down to +4dB.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

swear I made a wotws last summer when i got the subs in, guess not, made this last nite: wotws dts has no lows, but bassotronics has massive output? w505 must HP movies!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhDpkWc3lFg 


korn another brick in the wall

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P-nrQr_wDs


----------



## kryptonitewhite

told you blizard

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1Ryu4ikYVw


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I can't leave PEQ alone. I brought Q down to 5, narrow, and up to +9dB, sub level from 0 up to 4, but I keep playing and playing, Q2, sub 2, crossover back down to 80, then 100, this up, that down...never stops! But it sounds amazing right now...crossover 200Hz (180 on AP30001Ds) HP20Hz 6dB/oct (wish I could set it to 15Hz but 20Hz is the lowest it goes) LP 200Hz PEQ 22Hz Q5 +9dB


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Well just went cruisin again. So the weather change and subs breaking in have kept me playing, I am getting more comfortable (OCD) with EQing rather than purposely picking drivers/amps/building enclosures/relying on cabin gain to "naturally" make the FR I want without EQ. I think i will be keeping the subwoofer amp's crossovers all the way up at 180Hz, the PXA-H701 SW crossover all the way up at 200Hz... this in combination with me leaving the PEQ at 22Hz, Q max-narrowed at 5, maxed at +9dB, HP as low as possible at 20Hz 6dB slope.... combined with as much airspace as I could muster...about 55 cubes... as low a tune as possible without re-doing the port at 22Hz.... small cabin to pressurize, very ridgid...good cabin gain with low-loss, including sealed up false doors and modified door jamb to fight flex (we're down to 2"-3" flex)


I get that wonderful U shaped FR I wanted from my subs. 18Hz-35Hz is insane, 35Hz-55Hz is down, and 55Hz-200Hz is tight, crisp, pounding, buzzing.


It is amazing how different the subwoofer sounds playing 50Hz-200Hz so much different than the midbasses playing 50Hz-200Hz. I love them both, if I remove one I miss it. If I bring the subs down to 80Hz where the 7's are crossed, I miss so much. But if I bring the 7's up to 100Hz-200Hz, I miss so much. I am overlapping from 80Hz-200Hz.


Windows never all the way up to allow the subs to breath at least a little, and I cant run the heater with the windows all the way up or the fan complains and vents howl... it's very air tight in the cabin with the windows up. I lose a lot of low end with them mostly up, 1/2 way up is just right, and all the way down can be overwhelming. I still ony get 1/2 excursion if that on a very low song when i have it loud. Even at a moderate level, though, with the windows down them lose get powerful!


----------



## kryptonitewhite

My 1st sound ticket in the VAN, letter to the judge. Going to plead guilty with explenation.



Your honor,


I am guilty of noise pollution. I fully understand that my right to enjoy my stereo ends where the right to another person's to not have to hear it begins. I agree 100% that there needs to be moderation in just how loud a stereo should be, as well as a time and a place for them. I am a very devout audio enthusiast, both in car audio and in home theater. As much as I love to hear other people's stereos at times, I myself find it inappropriate when I am in the comfort of my own home and even more inappropriate at a late hour. It doesn't just stop with stereos, but people walking down the street when they get carried away yelling, neighbors getting together, loud sports cars, trucks, motorcycles, and ATVs. Moving trucks can be very loud when they sit and idle outside, rattling my windows.


Being devout into the study of sound reproduction, I spend a large portion of my time listening to things around me in every day life and comparing them to how well my home theater and car recreate them. I have found that semi trucks, moving trucks, sports cars with modified exhaust, pick up trucks with modified exhaust or lack of any at all, sports motorcycles, Harley Davidson style bikes, and street legal four wheelers are much much louder than my stereo... and I have to admit I have one of the largest car stereos in Sioux Falls, if not South Dakota.


I have also come to respect an unwritten mutual understanding that deep in secluded neighborhoods there is an assumed expectation of quiet. As you travel further from the deep residential areas and venture closer to the main avenues, the assumed expectation for quiet proportionately converges into an assumed expectation that there will be larger and louder vehicles, as well as more general noise simply from more traffic volume. A person that lives directly on Minnesota Avenue or 41st Street must be prepared to accept that there is going to be much more noise, general and specific, than a person living deep in a residential area, as well as people in industrial areas. I think people learn that weekends and daytime are generally quieter than week nights and mornings.


I am no attorney but I assume that laws are basic; simply saying my stereo is not permitted to be heard "EX" amount of feet from my vehicle. 50 foot rule? 100 yard rule? I do not know and also assume ignorance is not innocence. I would like to mention that I agree 100% that I did something wrong and that I should have consequences for my actions. I do not know if $95 is a set amount or if it can be reduced. Even if you can, should you choose not to, I accept that as well. I simply feel much better having said my piece.


My piece is this. I don't think there is dedicated space for audio enthusiasts. Motorcyclists can go to a private track, race cars can go to race tracks. Motorcyclists seem to get cracked down on once in a while but generally seemed to be ignored. The audio enthusiast seems to be restricted to the country. If you want to listen "too loud" then you must leave town. Rolling your windows up simply is not an option, having the largest system in town I have seen, when I roll my windows up the lowest frequencies are suffocated..no matter how much power I feed the subwoofers. However, what I myself do while seeing other enthusiasts not doing, is I keep it to the loudest busiest streets. When I am on the busy heavy traffic areas I enjoy it. When I come to a red light or stop sign, I turn it down. When I go into residential areas, I turn it down. When it gets late and dark, I turn it down. I am not the guy that drives by peoples houses with it at full blast at 3AM with the windows down. I simply would like to have the same assumption as the other loud vehicles out there if I keep it to its place. When I am driving down Minnesota Ave. at full blast and a motorcycle or "ricer Honda" drives past, I hear them over my stereo. My stereo is much louder inside the vehicle than outside, yet I can hear them over it. When I do not have my stereo on and I drive with my windows down, I pay attention to how loud other stereos sound as well as vehicles. If you do the same, I hope you have noticed how much louder vehicles are than stereos... it is just that stereos stir up so much anger and annoyance but the vehicle noises seem to be accepted or unnoticed. Also, I spent a lot of time and efforts to use expanding foam throughout my vehicle to keep as much sound inside as possible as well as eliminate buzzes and rattles.



I am asking that I may be given some leniency. A reduction in fine costs. I was pulled over at 2:51PM on 18th and Minnesota, not after dusk in a residential area.


Thank you for your consideration.


Sincerely,


(signed)


----------



## stegen

That van. what an ugly setup but in the same, very good job.


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stegen* /forum/post/20047734
> 
> 
> That van. what an ugly setup but in the same, very good job.



I literally just laughed out loud, it is extremely ugly, yet sounds so good, even when so much louder than it really needs to be










thank you.


----------



## kryptonitewhite

lil wayne dontgetit drops way down on three parts, 1:30, 2:40, and 9:40

My voltage drops terribly

I have false doors with sub box carpet lining to keep the windows still, doesnt help enough.


nine forty outdriverside

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G__qKb_oBBg 


way back two forty

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGMnlVZgAbg 


nasty voltage drop

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPoyPqzBa6o


----------



## kryptonitewhite

im even better at using my camera wink wink

I cut strips of auto carpet and superglued them to the wood rails I made to support the windows from flexing, still rattles, going to retry with PL PRO


----------



## stegen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kryptonitewhite* /forum/post/20048126
> 
> 
> I literally just laughed out loud, it is extremely ugly, yet sounds so good, even when so much louder than it really needs to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you.



I used to be big into car stereos too. just please be respectful of others ears, please mute it at stoplights and at night. Otherwise, BOOOOM away


----------



## kryptonitewhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stegen* /forum/post/20049909
> 
> 
> I used to be big into car stereos too. just please be respectful of others ears, please mute it at stoplights and at night. Otherwise, BOOOOM away



sure do, and on side streets. as soon as I'm on the main drag, I let her rip, but in the residential areas she goes way down


----------



## kryptonitewhite

ive had my subs reconed for a few months now but i was trying to wait to put them back in until I have the 2nd alt in to keep from voltage drop killing my amps and makin my subs stink. finally made them smell today makin this vid, you wouldnt believe the windows were moving more than 4 inches unless you saw it in person even with the false door window reinforcements. The door flexes out almost 2" and that's reinfoced as well in the door jam. I could smell the subs outside cuz it was blowing massive air

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCf7hJSYEa0


----------



## kryptonitewhite

remake in the dark engine reved good window flex



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce7YVhzxhhk 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGey2L2MSkA


----------



## kryptonitewhite

put on remix, much louder on the ear than love for money but not near the flex. still fun!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlC4l7SEwEs


----------



## kryptonitewhite

Graham, my buddy, saves the day once again! I have tried burning this track as wma, mp3, cdda, wav, audio, iPOD and nothing would work. I redid it as "audio" and this time worked, IDKY it didn't before. I even emailed back and forth with Bassotronics himself, jarofwar at yahoo, paid him a dollar to email me back the HD version. Well here it is, 18Hz center frequency, sweeps down to 13Hz I believe! Thanks Graham! Thanks Bassotronics!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkE-jq4jBQA


----------



## kryptonitewhite

I get a lot of hate, starting to see some love now with the subsonics and super low songs, thanks for the support, a little cocky here cuz of the haters but its all in fun. master p if them feds only knew killin my voltage, camera cant capture how loud it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olX8gSWCA1Q


----------



## kryptonitewhite

requested "whats in it" vid and DBAudio's latest track, "25Hz and 30Hz bass test"

Iraggi 220A alt, G31 AGM batt in front from O'Reilley, (2) 100aH AGM O'Reilley in rear, cheap 0 gauge, Alpine IVA-W505 touch screen DVD to interface with digital PXA-H701 X-over, (4) Vifa XT25TG30 1" ring radiators 14kHz on up 66dB/oct off Kicker SX500.2, (2) CSS FR125S 4.5" XBL^2 full range 710Hz-14kHz off KX650.4 bridged, (4) Adire Audio Extremis 6.4 XBL^2 mids 80Hz-710Hz (2) KX850.4's bridged (4) FiCarAudio IB318's off (4) Audiopipe AP30001Ds 10Hz-200Hz in 55 cubic feet 20 inch diameter port 22Hz tune. 140 can Great Stuff expanding foam, (5) layer MDF wall backed by 2x6 frame. Toggle switches for each set of speakers, can play whatever set I want.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmfRbDllCQA


----------



## kryptonitewhite

21hz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl2Z-IASonk


----------



## kryptonitewhite

remeasured again, box is about 39" deep, 60" wide, and 35" tall... only 45 cubic feet, not 55!


Going to cut a 24" long piece and report tomorrow, should bring tuning down to 23Hz, if the port were acting as a port, WinISD says it's tuned to 28Hz now and was at 24Hz all along.


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## kryptonitewhite

We fixed it, 20" now for about a 24Hz tuning


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## kryptonitewhite

Alright, the IB3s were extremely loud and did very well for $200 a pop. A 148.2 @ 25Hz made me proud. Even with EQ the bottom end just isn't where I want it to be, but the system ended up a ways from where it was initially going. It was supposed to be 110 cubic feet tuned to 15Hz and ended up at 45 cubic feet tuned to 24Hz. I never in a million years thought I'd use 10% of the power I had available. I ended up DOUBLING the front stage power and wish i could re-double that, but it will do. I still can't get a couple of adaptors made to mount my 2nd alt. Some day.


I just sold the IB3s for $600 and will be looking to try bigger motored subs. You guys were right, I was wrong










After I get the new subs I'll start a new thread, something like: (4) 18's 45 cubic feet 20" port tuned to 24Hz (4) AP30001Ds


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## vitaminbass

I just found this thread a few days ago and have been very entertained reading it. Thanks for taking so much time to post so many pictures.


1. did you fix your hum/alternator whine? If not, do you have your head unit and all the stuff in the back grounded in the same place?


2. good to see you using EQ more. I know you don't want the response flat, but I think the best way to set this system up is to adjust the crossovers for where the drivers are comfortable, and for power handling, and to some degree flat response...then go back and EQ as you wish...then if needed tweak crossovers from there. Maybe that's what you did. Remember, even an electronic crossover at 24 db is not a brick wall. If you use 710 Hz hp on one and lp on another driver in theory there will be a hump in the reponse there, correct me if I'm wrong?


3. The stock price of the company that makes spray foam fluxtuates depending on what project you are working on.


4. Have you considered trying a tuneable port? For most types of music you could tune it up higher and gain a lot of efficiency.


5. I admire your ambition. If you applied this ambtion in the right place you could be very successful in a career. And maybe you already are...so please don't take that comment the wrong way, and I'm not saying you shouldn't be spending as much time as you are on the van (it's a hobby you enjoy). The fact that it's for function over form doesn't matter, if you wanted you could have made it look nice. Having the motivation and drive to do something like this is what counts. The rest are minor details.


6. 14 kHz high pass...I can only hear to 15 kHz! So for my ears that would be a range of what, 1 of one note? Lol but when that note was played those tweets would stand and deliver


7. are you running a high pass filter on the subs? Sorry if I missed it. As you hinted to, you might be getting some nasty wave forms when the amps clip, you don't want anything resembling DC going to those drivers. Also your van may not behave like a textbook/WINISD model when it comes to drivers unloading under the tuning point.


8. would there be any advantage to running caps or would it take way too many to help (or are you already running caps and I missed it)?


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## kryptonitewhite

great post vitamin, especially about foam stocks going up and down










1: yes, I am embarrassed to say i forgot to reconnect the factory ground to the front battery after I disconnected everything to install the Iraggi HO alt. Everything was still grounded through the "Big 3" runs from the engine block and chassis to the front battery as well as the rear two, but it was enough to create slight volateg drop. Hooked it back up and everything was fine










2: Ive been using EQ more and more, currently the subs are maxed with a center at 22Hz +9dB... still gets quiter on the extreme lows on some songs, then another song it may be too much... learnin as I go!


3: Thats hillarious. i got a LOT of **** for foam, I learned a LOT on this build, but if I ever get to do it again, I will use Great Stuff again... but i will apply it in less quantities over more time...give it time to expand and cure, say 4 cans per side every other day, rather than 6-14 cans at a time every couple of hours. My car is non-biodegradeable... in 2 million years the metal and wood will all be gone, the rubber and plastic thin...but that foam will live on!


4: I retuned to 27Hz and it failed miserably. I think the large diameter vs short length made it a giant leak, almost free aired them


5: Thank you! I wish I had a career that lots of ambition translated directly to BANK lol. I don't.


6: I just rode around with perfect_prefect twice tonight, his single pair of coaxials HURT me... they are crossed at 5.3kHz and are LOUD... I can only take SPL like that from 14k on up and 35Hz on down










7: I have the amp's HP all the way down (off I believe) but with the PXA-H701 I have them HPed at 20Hz 6dB/oct to be safe, though I can disable it even with Bass I Love You and have plenty of room


I think 10 100 farad banks would help, if I happened to have them Id hook them up, but I would never spend money on caps ever again. The cost vs batteries is the same but batteries help so much more. I do need at least 2 more batteries and to install my other alt. If I could just save up and get the brackets and belt, my system would be so much better off. Almost blew my stuff up several times today due to voltage drop clipping my amps sending them into protect and almost killing the subs


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## vitaminbass

regarding the subs...if all you wanted to do was kick drum and quick hits they would be of more use. On the material that more closely resembles a sine wave once they drain they are doing very little and you are just relying on your batteries and the cable to deliver the voltage. Also, if those are regular lead acid batteries...regardless of how good your cable is...the batteries have internal resistance that can be significant in a case like yours (you probably already knew this). Lead is not a very good conductor. That's where the multiple batteries helps a lot.


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## kryptonitewhite

Absorbed Glass Matt


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