# Bar plans?



## Sdallnct

Anyone got any suggestions for bar plans or places that sell them? Anyone actually have any experience with these plans or overall suggestions for building?


I'm wanting to buld a typical L shaped bar. The long end right at 8 ft then the shorter L part attaching to the wall at about 5 to 5.5 ft. I'm going to run electrical through it but not plumbing (I'm doing a free standing sink on back wall behind the bar).


I'm putting this in a room where the length is not an issue, but it is slightly narrow. Meaning I want the bar itself to be as narrow as possible so that you can easily wall around the bar even with people sitting at it. The only thing as far as depth goes that I want in the bar itself is a beverage center (bar fridgerator). I do want a lower level work space behind the bar and I want the bar top to cantilever out at least some so your legs are under the bar top.


I can't find a bar plan on line that fits all the major components I want. One is close but it is a full three feet in depth before I stick the bar top out a little. So I'm wondering how easy these plans are to modify? Should I just get one to give me the general idea, then make the size as I see fit? Or really, is there a point in getting plan? Should I just frame some boxes and go from there? My concern is not the rough in part, but in the finishing details. This will be in a very visible place in our house and my wife agrees we should put up a bar, it better be nice, or I'll never hear the end of it!


----------



## tcrandal

When I was planning my basement bar, I went to quite a few sites for ideas, and one I believe is called barplans.com. I didn't use their plans, but I figured out the design and got ideas from the many sites I visited with examples. Good luck! It's a fun process...


----------



## CPanther95

Not really a bar, but I've been looking for a couple of years for something like this:
http://www.dannyveghs.com/bar23.htm 


for my gameroom that has limited space around the pool table. No luck except for the unit in the photo, but they want like $1200 each whether 4, 5, or 6 foot.


----------



## MaximAvs

Sdallnct...


I was looking for the same thing a while ago, but I was hoping for free plans and I couldn't find any. If you dont mind paying for the plans, there are quite a few web sites willing to sell them.


I went ahead and build my own and designed it as well. Here is a simple plan that you can modify to your size and liking!! See my gallery or sig for a couple of pictures.


-Sean

 


Sorry about the image quality....converting from AutoCAD to Jpeg isn't pretty!


----------



## Sdallnct

Thanks for the idea guys! Due to my job, I'm probably going to have to put the actual building on hold (I work for a large insurance company on their Catastrophe Team- so sooner or later will be heading to the gulf coast area). However, I want to keep collecting ideas, maybe go ahead and buy some plans so when I get back can jump right in!


MaximAVS, geat bar! Did you attach to the ground or anything? I have tile over concrete slab. So I COULD go in the grout and into the slab, but I figure with even just basic framing and real plywood it would be heavy enough not to have to attach to the ground.


----------



## MaximAvs

The bar is not attached to the floor. It is plenty heavy not to move, but if you want to anchor yours down, you can use a masonary bit and some blue screws to tie it to the floor. Or use a power nailer (the .22cal variety) and fire nailes into the concrete throught the tile, but you risk cracking the tile unless you shoot through the grout lines!!


-Sean


----------



## dennisgg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the idea guys! Due to my job, I'm probably going to have to put the actual building on hold (I work for a large insurance company on their Catastrophe Team- so sooner or later will be heading to the gulf coast area).





MY heart goes out to you - I wish you safety and health (both physical and mental) on that trip. I cannot even comprehend having to experience that and have to do it in a way to save your employer money when you feel for the victims.





Dennis


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dennisgg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MY heart goes out to you - I wish you safety and health (both physical and mental) on that trip. I cannot even comprehend having to experience that and have to do it in a way to save your employer money when you feel for the victims.
> 
> 
> Dennis



I certainly appreciate the kind words, but I'm not sure what you mean by "save your employer money"????


I'm on a permanent Catastrophe Team a position I put in for 10 years ago and was fortunate to be selected. As part of this team all I ever do is travel the country helping people when they need it the most, after a disaster.


I have worked Hurricanes, Fires, Tornado's, Hail Storms, Floods, etc, etc. It is all I do. While I'm not technically an adjuster, I'm part of the same group. I mainly do training, assist with difficult issues, quality control, etc. If needed I can fill the roll of an adjuster, fill in for management, help with technical issues, be a classroom trainer, train one on one, etc.


I very, very proud of what I do and that I get to help people. I'm also proud for the company I work for who has never (in over 15 years total working for them) asked me to do something that I was uncomfortable with. And as further note of why I'm proud of who I work for, I just got an e-mail yesterday they my company donated a large some of money to the American Red Cross AND will match contributions dollar for dollar of any donation us employees make.


----------



## dennisgg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I certainly appreciate the kind words, but I'm not sure what you mean by "save your employer money"????
> 
> 
> I'm on a permanent Catastrophe Team a position I put in for 10 years ago and was fortunate to be selected. As part of this team all I ever do is travel the country helping people when they need it the most, after a disaster.
> 
> 
> I have worked Hurricanes, Fires, Tornado's, Hail Storms, Floods, etc, etc. It is all I do. While I'm not technically an adjuster, I'm part of the same group. I mainly do training, assist with difficult issues, quality control, etc. If needed I can fill the roll of an adjuster, fill in for management, help with technical issues, be a classroom trainer, train one on one, etc.
> 
> 
> I very, very proud of what I do and that I get to help people. I'm also proud for the company I work for who has never (in over 15 years total working for them) asked me to do something that I was uncomfortable with. And as further note of why I'm proud of who I work for, I just got an e-mail yesterday they my company donated a large some of money to the American Red Cross AND will match contributions dollar for dollar of any donation us employees make.




Hi,



I hope I didn't offend by that, I didn't mean to. I made the comment based on an insurance company is a company that, like the majority, is trying to make money. This is not to say that is wrong, if it weren't for companies making money there would be no jobs. Insurance companies gamble that these disasters won't happen and the customers are gambling that they will hoping they make out in the long end (by the recovery/repair will be more money than they paid for the insurance over a course of time). I realize that insurance companies do help, but they are not to be compared to the Red Cross or other non-profit organization that volunteers and is run on charity donations. Insurance companies are profit-oriented businesses. I help people with computer and network problems, disaster recovery (business IT side), etc., but I work for a profit company. I try to help my customers in any way they need, but the money the company makes helps keep me in a job. I am not the same as a volunteer helping poor with computer problems. Your job sounds very noble and very difficult (I could probably not do it as I would not be able to handle seeing such suffering and dying), but if you wanted to go above an beyond what the requirements of helping were, your company would probably not appreciate the extra costs, like mine if I gave away a bunch of my time free.


I hope I cleared up my comment.






Once again, I apologize if I offended you,


Dennis


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dennisgg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I didn't offend by that, I didn't mean to. I made the comment based on an insurance company is a company that, like the majority, is trying to make money. This is not to say that is wrong, if it weren't for companies making money there would be no jobs. Insurance companies gamble that these disasters won't happen and the customers are gambling that they will hoping they make out in the long end (by the recovery/repair will be more money than they paid for the insurance over a course of time). I realize that insurance companies do help, but they are not to be compared to the Red Cross or other non-profit organization that volunteers and is run on charity donations. Insurance companies are profit-oriented businesses. I help people with computer and network problems, disaster recovery (business IT side), etc., but I work for a profit company. I try to help my customers in any way they need, but the money the company makes helps keep me in a job. I am not the same as a volunteer helping poor with computer problems. Your job sounds very noble and very difficult (I could probably not do it as I would not be able to handle seeing such suffering and dying), but if you wanted to go above an beyond what the requirements of helping were, your company would probably not appreciate the extra costs, like mine if I gave away a bunch of my time free.
> 
> 
> I hope I cleared up my comment.
> 
> 
> Once again, I apologize if I offended you,
> 
> 
> Dennis



Thank you for the note, no offense taken...


While you are correct, an insurance company is a "for profit" business, you want your insurance company to be profitable. You want your insurance company to make money, and make LOTS of it for years and years. Why? Because when something like Katrina hits, it will take every bit of it and wipe out all of those previous years profits. You certainly don't want an insurance company to "not make money". Why? Where will the money come from if you have a claim?


Insurance companies realize exactly what could happen. It is not a gamble. Especially after hurricane Andrew, companies realized the importance of being ready with something major hits. They have worked with the federal and state governments to make sure those that want insurance, can get it from some place. I won't speak for all companies but I have been working for mine long enough to know one simple thing, when something like this happens they will spare NO expense doing everything they can to help. They will bring in toys for kids who have lost all of their stuff, they will have water, coffee, snacks, they will let people use our phones, faxes, they will help people find someplace to stay, whatever. None of which is "covered under the policy" but it is the right thing to do. You are correct, we do not pay for damage that is not covered, we do not go around handing out money to those that did not have insurance. But if everyone had bought insurance, the right type with the right coverage, then all would get some money. And I understand that some have to choose between eating and buying insurance and this is where in almost every case, the federal government will step in.


Also, people who by insurance should not look at it as a gamble or "savings account". Insurance works by a very simple principle, a lot of people pay premiums that cover the claims of just a few. Insurance does not and cannot work if everyone turns in a claim. You buy insurance for the piece of mind it brings you and for the rare times something happens.


No offense was taken and I certainly didn't mean to sound like I do my job for free. We made a promise to those that bought our product, and I feel great that I get to help honor that promise and help them get their life back together. And I agree, I often work right next to, in the same tents, in the same office with the American Red Cross or other organizations. They are wonderful people!


----------



## skip92

Back to the original discussion...


A great place for for Home Bar Plans and ideas is The Easy Home Bar Plans site.

Just search for Easy Home Bar Plans in Yahoo or Google.


----------



## skip92

Ok, here it is...

Easy Home Bar Plans 


The best Bar Plans I have found for the price!


----------



## b curry

skip92 barplan.com was in post #2.


----------



## crackity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> skip92 barplan.com was in post #2.



props for being nice about it


i would have said skip92 was a troll trying to promote the website for his financial gain.



oops crap... sorry just hate bad intentions


----------



## rabeb25

 http://rabeb25.mikesdecks.com/Theater%20Room/ 


Towards the bottom you can see the bar I built, nothing too fancy but works great.



Bryan


----------



## PAW

skip92

I believe you can't post URLs until you reach a certain # of posts. I think the # is 5. That's to prevent trolls from promoting a website for financial gain.







The forum rules and policies are posted some where. I was wondering why you post the same thing like three times.


OH! Welcome to the forum.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skip92* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, here it is...
> 
> Easy Home Bar Plans
> 
> 
> The best Bar Plans I have found for the price!



Actually that is the site I joined about a month ago. I have not started yet as I had been working out of town, but MAY be home for a while. As it turned out, it may have been good to wait. The guy at the site is coming out with a new plan any day of exactly the type bar I want to build. He will call it the "Kegger L shape bar", but I do not plan to put in a keg, but will put in a frig. But the overall design is exactly what I want, L shape with work bartenders work area (I plan to have electrical, but no sink as my sink will be a free standing unit behind the bar).


Soon as his new plan is up, I will at least print and start to modify the size for my needs.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rabeb25* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://rabeb25.mikesdecks.com/Theater%20Room/
> 
> 
> Towards the bottom you can see the bar I built, nothing too fancy but works great.
> 
> 
> 
> Bryan



Very nice! Is that flagstone? Did you use concrete backer board?


Right at this moment, I'm thinking about an engineered stone bar top - quartz, home depot has it as Silstone. We did our kitchen in it and the guys did a great job and might see if I can get it directly through them. For the bartender work area, will probably do either a stained/sealed top or my formica.


I'd rather save the money and find a DIY top, but the granite look is hard to beat.


----------



## rabeb25

Well Thanks!

The top is Slate, and the sides and footrest are just regular ceramics. No I did not use a backer.


Bryan


----------



## crackity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd rather save the money and find a DIY top, but the granite look is hard to beat.



I used granite tile on my DIY bar. Pretty much the first thing I ever built/designed of any substance and it turned out not too bad.


only caution is seal the entire thing not just the grout.... my dumb ass had a new years party and now there are ring stains from the bottom of glasses...... not very happy about it.... read that it may just have to do with quality of the granite especially with the black ones... oh well its a bar.


Anyhow the look is cool and relatively cheap.

http://www.crackity.com/gallery/Bar


----------



## HeyNow^

Still a work in progress, but I used dimensional lumber and plywood and came up with this;






















a bit behind the bar




















This bar is a single plywood thickness attached to the existing sink cabinet. Remove two small bolts and I can slide the bar (via nylon slides attached to the bottom) anywhere in the room to move items in and out of the door on the right.


----------



## PAW

Heynow^

Very nice!!


----------



## Elfman

Very Nice HeyNow^!


Very clean and professional looking. Looks very functional too!


Love the helmet collection you have going there.

GO SEAHAWKS!!!


----------



## ManTown2

Why buy plans????? Its sooooooo easy. I love that helmet collection. I started mine last week. Im i the process of glueing all the college pictures and mini scheudles i have to the top, i will then apply laquer (sp) to it. Bar is going to be all cheery, gonna be sweet. I havea similar helmet collection but mine is all college and hs helmets. IO have over 100 mini and full sized helmets


----------



## HeyNow^

Mantown2,


That's a lot of helmets. I just have the 32 NFL team helmets. My Buckeyes helmet and of course the most important one is my son's HS helmet, jersey and his two state championship games(lost both).


Show us some pics ManTown2


----------



## ManTown2

I played peewee , High School, and college football, so ive collected them over that time period. Many of the Helmets are mini helmets. I also have a large collection of other "odd" college football memorabilia. I coach hs football. I am somewhat of a fb junkie. I cant imagine life without, when i go out on a saturday morning and see people or hear people talking about doing things during the day, I wonder "dont these people know that ther is college football on!!!!" Kinda twisted I know. Anyway, DO YOU HAve any other pics of your "sportsbar"????


----------



## HeyNow^

I will be starting a separate thread soon. I don't want to hijack this thread...



Football is Life.


----------



## ManTown2

go right ahead start a new one but its too late youve already hijacked this one, friggin terrorist

link me to the new one


----------



## HeyNow^

Here you go Coach. Thanks for all that you do for our youth! Your countless hours contributing to our youth and making men out or our boys is sincerely appreciated. My son idolizes all of his coaches especially his Pee Wee coach. Makes me proud.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640633


----------



## Sdallnct

Heynow,


Great bar. Gave me some great ideas! I like your track lighting (Home Depot/Lowes - think I have seen those.). Lighting will be an issue for me as I have vaulted ceilings and right now the only thing for lighting I have is a ceiling fan and some skylights! I may have to pop some wall lighting in...


----------



## toofargone

[Coming a little late to the thread...]


I built a bar using plans from here:


precision-images[dot]com

(sorry I can't yet post the link or, apparently, even the full url. Not spamming, promise!)


The plans were great. They don't hold your hand or have step by step pictures but if I was able to follow them....


I'll try to remember to post a link to a pic of my bar after I get up to 5 posts. I don't know anything (yet) about HT hence I just lurk here. But I do know a bit about building a bar!


----------



## PAW

toofargone

Just create a thread in the testing forum and post to it.







I believe 5 is the magic #.


----------



## cabbageheat

Concerning the link provided on the first page ( www.barplan.com ), I was curious if anyone has actually purchased and put the bar together in its entirety?


This looks cool, and I might redesign my own theater to accomdate one, yet at the same time, it just looks too easy. You know what I mean? Like a gimmic of some kind.


So, does anyone or has anyone built, seen or purchased anything from this site?


Just curious, and slightly concerned, with a tad of interest!











thanks!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cabbageheat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Concerning the link provided on the first page ( www.barplan.com ), I was curious if anyone has actually purchased and put the bar together in its entirety?
> 
> 
> This looks cool, and I might redesign my own theater to accomdate one, yet at the same time, it just looks too easy. You know what I mean? Like a gimmic of some kind.
> 
> 
> So, does anyone or has anyone built, seen or purchased anything from this site?
> 
> 
> Just curious, and slightly concerned, with a tad of interest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!



I bought the plan, well actually you don't "buy a plan". You join the site and it enables you in the members area to view and download the detailed plans, all of them. I like that a lot as in the end, I will likely combine a couple of different plans into the bar I actually build. He builds them pretty much all the same way with finishing details and sizes being the difference.


I have not built yet as I'm still working out of town, but plan to. And for the money I highly recommend buying even tho I have not built yet. Why? Even if you don't use an actual plan, the ideas, suggestions, photos, etc are worth the $16.00 or so $$.


----------



## toofargone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *toofargone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll try to remember to post a link to a pic of my bar after I get up to 5 posts. I don't know anything (yet) about HT hence I just lurk here. But I do know a bit about building a bar!



Gosh, those first 5 posts are the hardest










Here is a link of some of my bar pics (on the avs gallery):

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot.../19417/cat/500


----------



## cabbageheat

Hey,


that looks great! Now I'm assuming this bar was made from the bar plans mentioned in the link above? If it was. . .how was the process and overall expense?


----------



## toofargone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cabbageheat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> 
> that looks great! Now I'm assuming this bar was made from the bar plans mentioned in the link above? If it was. . .how was the process and overall expense?



Not sure who this was directed to, but I used plans from precision-images.com . The website has a nice gallery of pics of users' projects. I would recommend using the plans as it can easily save you the $20 by helping you to use the wood most efficiently.


The wood (red oak) and supplies probably cost around $500. I used the following tools: ciricular saw, table saw, miter saw, jig saw, drill, orbital sander, and router. I wish had access to a drill press but managed with a hand drill. It would be hard to estimate the time it took, but given that this was my first building project I am sure I was super slow anyway.


See this thread for a description of my adventures with epoxy for the top:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=645326


----------



## scheerce

I also went back and forth between plans. The precision-images page has a lot of great pictures and ideas. I think it is geared more towards someone with wood working experience. Barplans.com has some good bars, but they are not as detailed as p-i's. they are more for the beginner. I am a beginner. I purchased plans from barplans.com, but then ended up designing the whole thing myself, based on their plans and other pictures I have seen. I have a commercial keg cooler built in it and also a little fridge. It turned out excellent. measure twice, cut once.


----------



## BuffBakerGA

Here another bar, pub style. No plans, except and idea in my buddy head and we took off from there...

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/.../img_2818.html 

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/...lbar_pano.html 

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/.../stb_2723.html 

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/.../img_2736.html


----------



## skip92

Just to let you know...I am not affiliated in any way with barplan.com .

I just could not figure out why I was not able to post the URL correctly.


I agree, why buy plans? especially $30 per plan! even $15 seem like alot.


The reason I bought from barplan.com was that you get everything on their site for 15 bucks. When I joined about 2 years ago, the price was something like $7.50 and I can still access the site today. If it isn't the plans themselves, it's the cool ideas I got from the membership site. I logged in again the other day and there are more than 500 photos of people bars that have used the plans.


So, to answer cabbageheats question, yes, a lot of people have completed bars using that site. You can se that in the sample gallery they post to the public too.


I figure, if you are an experienced wood worker, why would you need to pay for plans?

The site I mentioned is more for novices like myself who don't have a clue...


It's refreshing to see a site that delivers more than I expected. Sure I paid to join, but I think the membership now comes out to something like 2 bucks per plan...not a bad deal.


----------



## Sdallnct

I'm about 3/4 done with my bar. I have all the framing done and completed the tops for the bartender area and bar top (3/4" particle board + 1/4" concrete backerboard).


After discussing "plans" and even joining a site, I basically threw it all out and did my own thing!


I decided I really wanted doors and drawers. So I researched cabinets and found a wholesale cabinet place here in town. Now, standard 24" deep lower cab's were to wide and making a box for 12" upper cab's would not have been deep enough and no drawers. Solution? I found "vanity" cabinets that had drawers and doors and as a vanity they are 18" deep. Perfect. I made a L shaped bar out of these (+ a beverage center), secured to the floor and one wall. I then basically framed a wall on the back side of the cab's about 6" higher then the cab's for the bar top.


BTW, finding the cab's wholesale seems to have worked well and I don't think I could have framed it for much less. I know it would not have been less if I bought enough stuff to hand build draws and doors.


I'll post some pic's in a few days as I have taken photos along the way. I'm going to start the trim work (molding) tomorrow and hopefully the bar tops this weekend. I bought black granite 12X12 tiles for the bar top and "think" I was smart by making the bar top 12" deep and basically the back bar area 12" deep. So minimum of cutting, hopefully.


I have never done anything like this before, a good friend was helping me, but had to go back to work







so now I'm on my own. But with a good start I hope to finish by next week.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll post some pic's in a few days as I have taken photos along the way. I'm going to start the trim work (molding) tomorrow and hopefully the bar tops this weekend. I bought black granite 12X12 tiles for the bar top and "think" I was smart by making the bar top 12" deep and basically the back bar area 12" deep. So minimum of cutting, hopefully.



What do you mean by the "back bar" area? The area where your cabs are?


I'm toying with this same concept and would love to see some pics of what you've done.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do you mean by the "back bar" area? The area where your cabs are?
> 
> 
> I'm toying with this same concept and would love to see some pics of what you've done.



Oh yea, sorry I mis-spoke. I meant the bartenders work area. I wanted a two teir counter top, one area for the bartender and the higher area for the actual bar top where people sit.


I'll try to get my photos uploaded tonight or tomorrow.


----------



## HeyNow^

Can't wait to see your efforts. Especially the granite tiles. Great idea on the vanity cabinets. I am a granite-bartop-wannabe!


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh yea, sorry I mis-spoke. I meant the bartenders work area. I wanted a two teir counter top, one area for the bartender and the higher area for the actual bar top where people sit.



No prob, that makes sense.


What are you planning to do for a countertop for the cabinets themselves?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll try to get my photos uploaded tonight or tomorrow.



Looking forward to checking it out.


----------



## Sdallnct

OK photo time! The photos will show better what I did then my terrible explaination!


Here is the proposed layout. Frig in the aprox place it will go with Blue Tap laying out the rest. The door way directly next to the fig is the door opening leading into the bar from the kitchen. The door opening to the right of that is for the laundry/pantry room.











With only 18" cab's I didn't trust the weight to hold them in place so I used a hammer drill and screwed 2X4's into my concrete slab in the grout lines of my tile flooring. (sorry about the bad photo, I had just swept and that concrete dust was everywhere!).











Cab's over the 2X4's that are screwed into the concrete. I then screwed the cab's into the 2X4's. Had to do some shimming due to uneven floor and uneven tiles.











Here is the bartender side with cab's in place. I did a terrible job staining the cabs, so once 100% finished, I'll pull the doors, do a little sanding and put on another coat and a clear coat (I had never stained before).











Here is the frame for the bar top and will also hold the outer "skin" for the bar,











Here is the two different bar tops framed to support granite tile. I also added foam board between the framing of the bar top so when I "skin" the bar with paneling you won't get that hollow sound and it will give the paneling some support.











Here is what it looks like from behind the bar with frig in place











And a dry fit of the granite tile and tin back splash. The bar top itself I made exactly 12" so no cutting except as I turn the corner on the L shape of the bar. The bartender work area "I believe" is just right for one full tile and then a half of one tile. I can use the grout line to fine tune (hopefully). The square hole you see in the tile is a reflection of my sky light overhead.


----------



## HeyNow^

That's what I'm talkin' about baby! OUTSTANDING!!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I'm talkin' about baby! OUTSTANDING!!



Thanks, I still have all the detail work to go and have slowed down since my buddy had to leave (we did the above in 3 full days - well full days with lots of breaks for beer and crown royal!).


As you saw, no sink in the bar, but I have a free standing sink I will put on the wall behind the bar. Easy to install, I just moved it out of the way while working.


Not sure when opening day will be, but I'm saving the tiling till last (have never tiled before) and hope to get to it this weekend or early next week.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Sdallnct - Love the pics, I get a good idea of what you're doing now...


Coupla questions:


How are you planning to trim out the outer edge of the bar itself?


Is 12" of bar going to be enough considering legroom for seating underneath?


What was a good price for those 18" cabs you put in. I looked around at some unfinished ones at lowes last night.


You didn't want to do a corner cabinet? You probably have plenty of storage space anyway, so it might not have been needed. Just curious.


Again, looks great so far...like the idea for the foamboard too...


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Question for the group:


Since the bar is considered a half wall, is there an NEC code that requires elec outlets to be placed on the outside area of the bar itself? Does it even require that they be on the inside?


----------



## Sdallnct

Sdallnct - Love the pics, I get a good idea of what you're doing now...


Coupla questions:


How are you planning to trim out the outer edge of the bar itself?

*I have decorative wood trim that I will use. I thought about tile, but figured for the look I'm going for, wood trim (stained like the cab's) would be the best.*


Is 12" of bar going to be enough considering legroom for seating underneath?

*The bar top is 12" while the overhang is about 8". In all honest, I wish I had it deeper, but with my room width, it was a far as I dare go. My plan going in was not to have it as deep as say a table, but I hate bars with no overhang, so I compomised. The total 12" bar top was figured based on mainly only having glasses on the bar, but it is large enough for a plate if we have so many people that someone (or maybe kids) need to eat up there. And of course once I decided to tile the bar top, I wanted it the same size as the tile so minimize cutting.*


What was a good price for those 18" cabs you put in. I looked around at some unfinished ones at Lowe's last night.

*18" cab's were $70 ea and I used three. The 30" was like $120 (it was so much more as it had a bank of drawers). On the long portion of the bar I was actually hoping to use a 30 and 36 in cab, but they were out of the 36 and they weren't sure when they would get. The Lowe's/Home Depots in my area had very little in the way of vanity and all they did have were stained a light honey color.


I had originally planned to stick build the entire bar, and leave the area behind the bar open, filling in the space with wine racks, maybe a very small wine frig, etc. However, I really like the doors and draws and can still put a wine rack or whatever behind the door.*


You didn't want to do a corner cabinet? You probably have plenty of storage space anyway, so it might not have been needed. Just curious.

*A corner unit would have made life easier, but the place I got the cab's didn't have any in this quality. These are cheap "builders grade" cab's, tho I am happy with them. They had much, much fancier cab's (Home Depot had some to) that had detail work, etc, but most of these were $400+ for a single 30" cab. I suppose it depends are you budget.*


Again, looks great so far...like the idea for the foamboard too

*Thanks I really appreciate it. Like I say, mainly learning as I go and one day spent about three hours walking around Lowes getting ideas on what would work, look good and be in my budget. My original budget was $1,000 for the entire bar, sink and frig. I have not added everything up, but I will be really close. I may have gone over when I had to buy a hammer drill as my regular drill wouldn't drill holes in my concrete slab







.*


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> *I have decorative wood trim that I will use. I thought about tile, but figured for the look I'm going for, wood trim (stained like the cab's) would be the best.*



Have you looked into bar trim? I doubt the local home improvement stores would carry it, but I've seen it on the web. Really dresses up the area and would even add a little more overhang to your bar, I think.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> *The bar top is 12" while the overhang is about 8". In all honest, I wish I had it deeper, but with my room width, it was a far as I dare go. My plan going in was not to have it as deep as say a table, but I hate bars with no overhang, so I compomised. The total 12" bar top was figured based on mainly only having glasses on the bar, but it is large enough for a plate if we have so many people that someone (or maybe kids) need to eat up there. And of course once I decided to tile the bar top, I wanted it the same size as the tile so minimize cutting.*



I certainly understand wanting to minimize the tile cutting...smart move there.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> *18" cab's were $70 ea and I used three. The 30" was like $120 (it was so much more as it had a bank of drawers). On the long portion of the bar I was actually hoping to use a 30 and 36 in cab, but they were out of the 36 and they weren't sure when they would get. The Lowe's/Home Depots in my area had very little in the way of vanity and all they did have were stained a light honey color.
> *


*


Thanks for the price info. I guess I'm lucky, as my Lowes has some 18" cabs with drawers or doors in unfinished condition. They're "builder grade" too, but I'm like you, I don't really need anything beyond that. I haven't looked at Home Depot though.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct /forum/post/0 

A corner unit would have made life easier, but the place I got the cab's didn't have any in this quality. These are cheap "builders grade" cab's, tho I am happy with them. They had much, much fancier cab's (Home Depot had some to) that had detail work, etc, but most of these were $400+ for a single 30" cab. I suppose it depends are you budget.

Click to expand...


I saw an unfinished corner cab at Lowes when I went, that's why I asked. Can't remember the price, but it had the pull-out double door, which would add a lot of storage room to the space.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct /forum/post/0 

Thanks I really appreciate it. Like I say, mainly learning as I go and one day spent about three hours walking around Lowes getting ideas on what would work, look good and be in my budget. My original budget was $1,000 for the entire bar, sink and frig. I have not added everything up, but I will be really close. I may have gone over when I had to buy a hammer drill as my regular drill wouldn't drill holes in my concrete slab







.

Click to expand...


Gotta love when the job calls for a new tool to add to the collection.







*


----------



## Sdallnct

Have you looked into bar trim? I doubt the local home improvement stores would carry it, but I've seen it on the web. Really dresses up the area and would even add a little more overhang to your bar, I think.

*I'll have to check it out. Do you happen to have a link or anythng?*


I saw an unfinished corner cab at Lowes when I went, that's why I asked. Can't remember the price, but it had the pull-out double door, which would add a lot of storage room to the space.

*Really? And these were 18" deep cabinets? The Lowes and HD had almost nothing that was 18" deep. They had a nice selection of kitchen cabinets, but of course those were 24" deep which was more then I wanted. If you can get a variaty of cabinets, 18" deep that would work well.*


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Here you go:

http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?pa...2&cookietest=1 


I got that link from Hey Now's thread on his bar build (he posted earlier here in your thread). His thread is good for info too, check it out:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640633 


As for the 18" cabs at Lowes, they definitely had them, both with drawers and doors. I don't want kitchen-depth cabs for my bar either, that's why I was looking at the 18 inchers.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?pa...2&cookietest=1
> 
> 
> I got that link from Hey Now's thread on his bar build (he posted earlier here in your thread). His thread is good for info too, check it out:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640633
> 
> 
> As for the 18" cabs at Lowes, they definitely had them, both with drawers and doors. I don't want kitchen-depth cabs for my bar either, that's why I was looking at the 18 inchers.



Thanks for the links. I had thought about the armrest type trip, but nixed it. Mainly due to budget (that stuff is expensive!). But it is nice!


It is great that Lowes has a good selection of 18" cabs for you, I had to drive half way across town to find these and I live in Dallas!


----------



## Equusz

Since my home theater will have a "futuristic" theme to it, I'm going to go with an illuminated glass block bar like these photos (not mine, just some ideas from the web). Glass blocks are reasonable and definitely heavy duty enough for a bar.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Equusz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since my home theater will have a "futuristic" theme to it, I'm going to go with an illuminated glass block bar like these photos (not mine, just some ideas from the web). Glass blocks are reasonable and definitely heavy duty enough for a bar.



Nice! Would have not thought of glass block, excellent idea!


You are right, a different look. Since I'm going more for an Irish/Scottish/English pub look, I don't think I would go with glass, but it is a neat look.


In fact, I think I'm going to nix my tin back splash. I'm using a 5" decorative trim in a couple of areas including the front "kick plate". It looks like it would work perfect as the back splash and since I will stain the rest of the cab's think it might just do the trick.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Equusz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since my home theater will have a "futuristic" theme to it, I'm going to go with an illuminated glass block bar like these photos (not mine, just some ideas from the web). Glass blocks are reasonable and definitely heavy duty enough for a bar.




I'm a wood and brass guy, but you have to love that!!! Excellent work.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Equusz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since my home theater will have a "futuristic" theme to it, I'm going to go with an illuminated glass block bar like these photos (not mine, just some ideas from the web). Glass blocks are reasonable and definitely heavy duty enough for a bar.



Ditto on the previous comments (my bar will be a little too traditional for this), but I love the way this looks. Very Miami Vice, but in a good way!


----------



## chiliman

Here's some things I did. We're not finished yet though. I'm looking to build a back bar very similar to HeyNow's. I'm not thrilled with the painted bottom of the bar so I think I'll be covering that in some stained wood, again like HeyNow's....good job!


One thing I was trying to accomplish was to keep the bar area functional after my 7 year old boy is 15 years old and is trying to get to my liqour with his buddies and all the girlfriends! The solution was when we framed out the basement we made a 5x12 foot room directly behind where the bar would sit. I found a garden gate that has a solid bolt lock in order to look a bit more decorative, the alternative would have been an exterior style door with a deadbolt. The kegerator is in the back room along with a full size frig. I drilled a hole through the drywall and back of the cabinetry and ran the beer lines up into the laminate back bar counter top. When not using the liqour it just gets locked up in the back room and I just unhook the beer keg (the second tap is root beer).


For those putting a bar together now I would suggest as large a bar sink as you can accomodate and as long as you are doing plumbing attach a dishwasher. Nothing better than having friends over for the game and when done throwing everything in the dishwasher before going up for the night.


Photos are too large to paste here so here's the links to my gallery.


Randy


Full Bar Area 

Back Bar 

Room Behind Bar


----------



## toofargone

Nice! The garden gate gives a great look. (When our 10 year old neighbor turns 15 we'll have to start locking our backdoor







)


----------



## HeyNow^

Chiliman,


Wonderful space you have there. Re; the sink... We had a large double sink in the counter before I began my project and it was too big. It left me with very little counter top area. I then went with the small bar sink...it's too small. I think (as Goldilocks would say) a single sink will be just right! I plan on putting in a new counter top and single sink.


One other thing...when they turn to teenagers they can be very resourceful....plan on it. Sounds like you are! We already know most of the tricks anyway.







I've raised three boys and each of them had their moments!


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Chiliman,
> 
> 
> Wonderful space you have there. Re; the sink... We had a large double sink in the counter before I began my project and it was too big. It left me with very little counter top area. I then went with the small bar sink...it's too small. I think (as Goldilocks would say) a single sink will be just right! I plan on putting in a new counter top and single sink.
> 
> 
> One other thing...when they turn to teenagers they can be very resourceful....plan on it. Sounds like you are! We already know most of the tricks anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've raised three boys and each of them had their moments!




The sink thing was from my past experience too. The basement of our last house was very similar but one thing that I was always griping about was if I put 2 glasses in my sink it was full. The one we have now is a good 8 inches deep and 12-14 inches wide.


We'll see how the kids get in there, come 8 years from now, but I won't be too surprised when it happens!


Randy


----------



## ginigma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gotta love when the job calls for a new tool to add to the collection.



Yeah, I just added a cordless angle drill and dremel type tool to my collection. Needed to drill some holes in 2x4 studs and needed the dremel tool to cut circles for in-ceiling speakers. Originally I bought a manual drywall circle cutter for less than $10, but as I was in the HD tool crib I couldn't pass up the $60 cordless tool.


----------



## skip92

Where did you find the glass block design?


----------



## skip92

As far as small sinks go, you could add one of those big laundry type sinks to an adjacent back room. Or if you really hate to do dishes, buy one of those walmart microwave sized dishwashers. I was thinking about buying one...anyone have any experiences using one? or does anyone know how well they work?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skip92* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As far as small sinks go, you could add one of those big laundry type sinks to an adjacent back room. Or if you really hate to do dishes, buy one of those walmart microwave sized dishwashers. I was thinking about buying one...anyone have any experiences using one? or does anyone know how well they work?



Will have to look into that...seems like the perfect thing for washing just glasses...


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are right, a different look. Since I'm going more for an Irish/Scottish/English pub look, I don't think I would go with glass, but it is a neat look.



What? You can still have glass block and an Irish/Scottish/English -GERMAN pub look....just not full block







.




















I'm waiting to cover and complete the bar last since it's the most expensive and time consuming. I wanted to get my HT up and running first!


This is the look I'm going for just with lighter wood and no columns:











I like your fridge. It looks like the same I want to use behind mine. Did you get it at HD?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What? You can still have glass block and an Irish/Scottish/English -GERMAN pub look....just not full block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I'm waiting to cover and complete the bar last since it's the most expensive and time consuming. I wanted to get my HT up and running first!
> 
> 
> This is the look I'm going for just with lighter wood and no columns:
> 
> 
> I like your fridge. It looks like the same I want to use behind mine. Did you get it at HD?



Very nice. I have been working out of town so haven't made any more progress on my bar, hopefully in a couple of weeks.


I actually got the frig at Sams. Here is the link to it on Wal-Marts site:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=3192254


----------



## Sdallnct

I have been working out of town and got no farther on my bar. My wife was ever so nice and called our tile guy and had him do the bar top for me! Yea, will save me a ton of time when I get home. And since our tile guy does our stuff "on the side" I know it was really inexpensive! Son is sending me a photo or two.


----------



## Sdallnct

My son e-mailed me a couple of pic's. As mentioned, my wife called our tile guy and had the granite tile installed on my bar for me. I travel home tomorrow so hopefully can finish the bar up. From the photos, I like the bar top, I was hoping for a little smaller grout lines, but that is ok. Save me time in doing it myself and was inexpensive (less then $200 labor only).


----------



## HeyNow^

WOW!! What a classy look! I'm going to go find some black granite and change my bar top. I love the look of your bar. Nice work! Have you decided on what kind of bar railing you are going with? Or are you just going to trim the outside?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Looking good, Sdallnct...


What kind of finish is that on the front paneling of your bar?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WOW!! What a classy look! I'm going to go find some black granite and change my bar top. I love the look of your bar. Nice work! Have you decided on what kind of bar railing you are going with? Or are you just going to trim the outside?



I found the black granite tiles at Lowes. I doubt I'm going to put any sort of bar railing, I think I would have had to plan for that before this point, so likely just trim. I had some decorative wood trim I was going to use, but it may be a little busy and take away from the tiles. So I might just stain a piece of plane wood and glue/nail it on.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking good, Sdallnct...
> 
> 
> What kind of finish is that on the front paneling of your bar?



Well believe it or not that is really cheap "photo finish" paneling. Well actually it is not paneling but wanes coat (sp?). It is sold in like 4X5 sheets, and I have cut some to fit, but have not installed yet, also picked up at Lowes. I was going to go with bead board paneling and stain it, but I really liked this "leather" look to the paneling, so I'm going to install it and see how it holds up. It is so cheap if it gets beat up, or I really don't like it, I won't feel bad about taking off and replacing (it was like $7 a sheet and I will use 5 sheets). But as it is pretty thin paneling, that is why I installed the insulation board between the supports to give it some extra support.


----------



## Sdallnct

Some details going in on the bar. Still not finished as I keep having to go out of town, but getting close....


----------



## HeyNow^

Beautiful! I really like the stain color and the granite. Nice work.


----------



## R_Willis

Neuner: Any further on your bar? New pictures?


Getting ready to start thinking about what type of design I'm going to go with.


----------



## Neuner









No, I'm getting the bathroom wrapped up and some of the molding done. I've started looking for the pieces I need to finish the bar, so at least I'm *thinking* about starting it. I need to find the Bar Rail so I know how to construct the top to fit it. This thread highlights my hunt: Bar Rail 


I've also started another project of ripping off our rotten deck and patio door and installing a concrete patio. It's really eating into my time also!

Patio & Sidewalk Project


----------



## chinadog

Well, my bar is making some progress, now that the theater room is pretty much complete. Cabinets got installed yesterday. I think it looks pretty good. The center cabinets will have glass doors and apparently there was problem, so they had to reorder them.










Better shot of the base cabinets. Lazy Susan in the corner.










Dishwasher goes on the right. Cabinet for the sink in the center. Drawers on left for stuff like bottle openers, can openers, coasters, crap like that.










Couple more:

hhttp:// [URL='http://images49.fotki.com/v1510/photos/6/649633/3817012/100_1587-vi.jpg%5B/IMG']images49.fotki.com/v1510/photos/6/649633/3817012/100_1587-vi.jpg[/IMG[/URL] ]
[IMG]http://images14.fotki.com/v335/photos/6/649633/3817012/100_1594-vi.jpg










I have the front part of the bar to do. I was thinking of a wainscot or panel system on the front (where you see unfinished drywall). I'm thinking of maybe doing the top part of the bar in your traditional wooden top with a bar rail and doing granite on top of the base cabinets. I'm going to have to either match the stain on the cabinets or do a complimentary color or paint.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's what I'm proposing for the front of the bar. Any comments or ideas?










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I thought about raised panels for my bar. I gave it a couple of weeks sitting at the bar and pondering how I would do it. I thought about making my own, or finding a cabinet door source and just attaching them to the front of the bar. I have a fair size overhang on my bar (about 12 inches) but I can sometimes still touch the bar with my knees. I began to think that banging my knee on a flat panel was not quite as bad as hitting a raised panel or trim. Granted it looks awesome when you see trim or panels on the front of bars. However, I went for a more functional front. I am thinking that perhaps in the future making some faux panels with very flat trim pieces. Jury is still out on that one. I still have to install bottom kick plates, but Lowes wide oak trim pieces are very expensive. I'm thinking of just getting oak 1X6's and routing one edge.


BTW your cabinets and bar are fantastic as usual!


----------



## DaIceMan

Bud...


I have been working on plans myself, and I was going to use the same look on the front of my bar as you have in the picture.


The biggest problem I have to consider, is the lack of water and power at the arear I want to build my bar. I don't think power will be a huge issue, as I have to have my electrician in to wire the computer room (unfinished office) that will share a wall with the bar, but water is a whole other story. Might just have to use a tub and carry the dishes upstairs to wash.


----------



## Neuner

Bud, I really like the recessed panel design. It will give it a great look! Will you be covering this in wood or paint & trim?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a fair size overhang on my bar (about 12 inches) but I can sometimes still touch the bar with my knees. I began to think that banging my knee on a flat panel was not quite as bad as hitting a raised panel or trim.
> 
> 
> I still have to install bottom kick plates, but Lowes wide oak trim pieces are very expensive. I'm thinking of just getting oak 1X6's and routing one edge.



I was thinking about how far to overhang my top. I've looked at a couple of bars (not too many, I'm married...with children







) and every one of them was different. Some had huge overhangs, and some without any at all, so I'm guessing there's no standard. How do you like the 12" overhang on yours and do you wish it hung out further? (Setup for an easy weiner joke).


I think I would route one edge myself. Even if you have to buy the bit which can be expensive, it should save from the premium of a tall trim piece.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I really like the recessed panel design. It will give it a great look! Will you be covering this in wood or paint & trim?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about how far to overhang my top. I've looked at a couple of bars (not too many, I'm married...with children
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and every one of them was different. Some had huge overhangs, and some without any at all, so I'm guessing there's no standard. How do you like the 12" overhang on yours and do you wish it hung out further? (Setup for an easy weiner joke).
> 
> 
> I think I would route one edge myself. Even if you have to buy the bit which can be expensive, it should save from the premium of a tall trim piece.




Neuner,


I guess it depends on the length of your legs.







One thing I hate is a very shallow top and you have to sit staddle legged or at an angle (side saddle). My base plywood top is 9.5 inches overhang and a couple of inches more once the bar rail is installed. I still hit the darn stiles occasionally too! But after a couple of suds, it doesn't matter










My overhang was also limited to not sticking out too far by the hallway.


It's amazing that I find myself sitting at the bar most of the time while in the basement. The bar railing makes it very comfortable. The height of the bar is perfect for me and I don't have to lean forward too much. Besides the wife is watching chick flicks on the big screen and I get to watch what I want at the bar.


Mock up what you think you will have and test it out first. I made a bunch of adjustments doing this.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's what I'm proposing for the front of the bar. Any comments or ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Great bar....Nice job!


Where did you get the wall phone? I've been looking for a replica antique English/British wall phone for my bar and have had no luck.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great bar....Nice job!
> 
> 
> Where did you get the wall phone? I've been looking for a replica antique English/British wall phone for my bar and have had no luck.



Thanks. I got the phone from my father in law. He's collected a few from friends over the years. It's a 1950s Western Electric. I'm suppose to get some new guts for it from him to get it to work. It was a different color, like a salmon color, actually. I repainted it and found an old phone store online that was I able to by a black and white face sticker for it to finish it up.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I thought about raised panels for my bar. I gave it a couple of weeks sitting at the bar and pondering how I would do it. I thought about making my own, or finding a cabinet door source and just attaching them to the front of the bar. I have a fair size overhang on my bar (about 12 inches) but I can sometimes still touch the bar with my knees. I began to think that banging my knee on a flat panel was not quite as bad as hitting a raised panel or trim. Granted it looks awesome when you see trim or panels on the front of bars. However, I went for a more functional front. I am thinking that perhaps in the future making some faux panels with very flat trim pieces. Jury is still out on that one. I still have to install bottom kick plates, but Lowes wide oak trim pieces are very expensive. I'm thinking of just getting oak 1X6's and routing one edge.
> 
> 
> BTW your cabinets and bar are fantastic as usual!



Thanks Randy. I'm not sure I'd do anything too elaborate for the panels, just get some wood and route the edges so they're relatively flat, which would allow me to use some trim just to hold it in place. I expect that the overhand will be about 12 inches as well. I used one in our kitchen for dimensions, so the edge of the counter would be use at the end of the wall. I assumed I was going the granite route at that point, but again, thinking about doing the top in wood and the base cabinets in granite. Need to prototype.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaIceMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> I have been working on plans myself, and I was going to use the same look on the front of my bar as you have in the picture.
> 
> 
> The biggest problem I have to consider, is the lack of water and power at the arear I want to build my bar. I don't think power will be a huge issue, as I have to have my electrician in to wire the computer room (unfinished office) that will share a wall with the bar, but water is a whole other story. Might just have to use a tub and carry the dishes upstairs to wash.



I actually built the knee wall you see there in the picture and then had a plumber run the plumbing through the wall. I had used Home Depot's cabinet design services to figure out the basic layout so I could get the dimensions right and build the wall. I used a local cabinet manufacturer for the cabinets themselves. The HD design stuff is free.


Here were my basic plans from them, although the cabinets changed some.

http://images12.fotki.com/v252/photo...-vi.jpg?715680 
http://images15.fotki.com/v234/photo...-vi.jpg?715650 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I really like the recessed panel design. It will give it a great look! Will you be covering this in wood or paint & trim?



I'm looking to stain everything once I figure out the details. Everything in dywall white you see should be stained to give it that classic look.


Bud


----------



## R_Willis

Did all you guys have water/sewer available for your bars or did some of you have to get creative? I'm wondering how much I'll miss having a sink and running water in my upcoming bar area project. I'm wondering if it is that big of deal. My sewage ejector pit/pump for the bathroom is no where near where my bar will be.


Hmph.....


----------



## chinadog

Mine was relatively close and was able to tap into it. I have a seperate pump for the utility sink in my workshop though. That one is above ground. The bathroom/bar one is below. Any way to add a second?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great bar....Nice job!
> 
> 
> Where did you get the wall phone? I've been looking for a replica antique English/British wall phone for my bar and have had no luck.



Here's one like mine.
http://www.ahernstore.com/1950-payphone.html 











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Where did you get your barstools from?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I got them at Sam's. Of course they don't carry them anymore. If you have one near you, check frequently because the styles change all the time. When we bought them, I stood there for over an hour debating whether to buy 4 or 5 of them knowing that I would NEVER be able to match them up in the future. Wife decided that 4 was sufficient.







she was right.


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R_Willis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did all you guys have water/sewer available for your bars or did some of you have to get creative? I'm wondering how much I'll miss having a sink and running water in my upcoming bar area project. I'm wondering if it is that big of deal. My sewage ejector pit/pump for the bathroom is no where near where my bar will be.



How far is your run?


During my under slab inspection, I asked several questions of the inspector before I went any further. One of the questions was about the extensive run to my wet bar for the sewer line. His answer was for me to place it under the slab and come up in the stairwell wall next to my bar. There was no way that I was going to bust up that much of my slab and I disgreed with his interpretation of the code. I therefore installed joints in my bathroom plumbing so I could 'sneak' in the plumbing to my bar after the rough-in inspection and before the drywall went up. He stated that he was only filling in while my typical inspector was on vacation. I then found out that he was fired for taking 'gifts' and my regular inspector was pretty cool. I went ahead and installed as I planned and had my rough-in inspection and it was approved. Here are some pics showing what I did. I could have done a better job of the connection into the main line at the bathroom, but I did this when I thought I would be hiding it.


This is the connection into the bathroom plumbing. Bottom pvc is for the sewege line, the top is for the venting. Hot & Cold are tapped off of the shower:











This is a pic of it snaking along and behind the stairs:










Connections at the bar. I have since built a cabinet in that corner of the bar where the sink will be installed.


----------



## Sdallnct

Nice, and I found that store. I kind of like this one.











But I was hoping to find one with a little more British feel. Maybe even one with the red box that swung open to reveal the phone?? Know what I'm talking about?






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's one like mine.
> http://www.ahernstore.com/1950-payphone.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the front part of the bar to do. I was thinking of a wainscot or panel system on the front (where you see unfinished drywall). I'm thinking of maybe doing the top part of the bar in your traditional wooden top with a bar rail and doing granite on top of the base cabinets. I'm going to have to either match the stain on the cabinets or do a complimentary color or paint.
> 
> 
> Bud



Well I'm certainly happy with the wainscot/paneling I "skinned" my bar with. I even used a cheap photo finish wainscot that looks sort of like leather, then put some stained trim to cover seams.


However, now that I'm done and gotten use to staining, I can't help but wonder what real wood, say bead board panels/wainscot would look like. If you are using a nice rich, dark stain, I can only imagine would be awesome.


Another thing with the cheap paneling anyway, is I already have one little scratch. Not a big deal, I can probably cover with a brown sharpie or something. But it would probably be more durable if wood/stain then able to touch up stain if needed.


Oh...also an update! I installed my sink yesterday! YEA!!! A buddy was in town and we went and got some beer and decided to take it on our self! I had called our plumber be he had been so busy he wasn't sure when he could come out and since we didn't even have rough in done, it was going to charge a little over $300 at least. So we went and bought about $60 worth of stuff and knocked it out in about 3 hours. And I didn't flood the house!!! I went surprisingly smooth. The wall I was putting the sink on had plumbing as the other side is the kitchen sink. And I figured I could do the supply lines easy enough, but I wasn't sure how to tie into the drain line and keep it all in the wall. But we actually had very little problem! That PVC pipe is slick. Pretty much like a jig saw puzzle. An angle here and angle there and it was done!


I'll try to post more pic's within a few days...


----------



## GreySkies

Here's a couple of pics of different British phones in booths. I thought of trying to find one of those, as I've seen them come up on eB*y occassionally, but ended up going with the same phone that Bud bought. Works well and looks good. And I figured that few friends/family would know the difference.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, mine is authentic, just doesn't work at the moment. Its a Western Electric from the 50s. My father-in-law had it. I got that and a 40's barber chair. Cleaned up pretty well, although has a tear on the seat that's been taped. It's in the garage, but I'll be moving it shortly.


Bud


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, mine is authentic,



Nice-- my replica's ok, but there's a different level of construction and feel with the authentics. I had bid on a few, but the price on them in any kind of shape seems to creep up to over $200 pretty quickly, and then when you add on $50 or so to ship those beasts, it just made the case for me to get a replica.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, they're quite heavy. I had to make sure I hit a stud when I hung it. I think they typically put a plate on the wall then screw the phone to the plate. I didn't have the plate, so I had to wing it.


Bud


----------



## GreySkies

I had to do some winging with the replica as well. While it mounts on a standard phone wall mount, it sticks out about 1/4" from the wall, giving it a loose feel on the wall. So I had to build a wall plate to firm it to the wall.


----------



## Sdallnct

I ordered 30" bar stools for my bar...finally. I found a deal at JCPenney's and free shipping, so bought four to get started. These have backs and swivel. I will eventually get an additional two or three more plain stools with no backs to fill in when we have that many people.


But my question...I want to go ahead a buy a stool for the bartender work area. What size? Should I get 30" so will be sitting at the same height as guests or 24" so it will be lower to work on the back bar area? I'm thinking 30" as I can't imagine even pouring a beer while sitting down, so mostly would stand up to mix hand a drink then sit back down to have one with guests.


----------



## chinadog

Not sure, I'm curious as well. Can you link to the bar stools you bought? Would love to see them.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

BTW, the guy was here today and did the templates for my bar counter and concession area. I'm going granite all around. It's call St Cecilia. I decided to do it on the base cabinets and the bar top. One less thing for me to do. It'll make it a little more "kitchenie", but I'm OK with that. Got a pretty good deal, better than expected.


It'll look similar to this:










Bud


----------



## fredpamm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R_Willis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did all you guys have water/sewer available for your bars or did some of you have to get creative? I'm wondering how much I'll miss having a sink and running water in my upcoming bar area project. I'm wondering if it is that big of deal. My sewage ejector pit/pump for the bathroom is no where near where my bar will be.
> 
> 
> Hmph.....



I had the same issue for my bar area. My plumber recommended a drain pump system that pumps the waste water up to your standard drain pipes.


Here is a link to the unit that he put in for me.

Zoeller pump


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fredpamm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had the same issue for my bar area. My plumber recommended a drain pump system that pumps the waste water up to your standard drain pipes.
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the unit that he put in for me.
> 
> Zoeller pump



Well that is the main reason I didn't put a sink in my bar, I didn't want to "run" plumbing. However the wall behind the bar is common to my kichen. So I put in a free standing vanity type sink behind the bar and pretty much just lined it up just opposite to the kitchen sink. So everything there. I figure I will mainly use a sink to dump glasses in, wash hands, etc. Since the kitchen is right there I'm sure I'll just take stuff there to be really cleaned.


I need to post some new pic's so you can see.....


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure, I'm curious as well. Can you link to the bar stools you bought? Would love to see them.
> 
> 
> Bud



Well we bought them based on price. Wife and I could not agree. And if we were going to spend $300 or whatever on custom, we did not want to be rushed. So I ordered some close out of JCP's for $50 ea with free shipping. I see they are now up to $60 ea, but there is no longer a pic available.


If you look up item number IF781-9782F at the JCPenney site you will get the item, but no pic. I'm still looking.


They look sort of like this one only with a web back

http://www4.jcpenney.com/jcp/Product...=SearchResults


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, the guy was here today and did the templates for my bar counter and concession area. I'm going granite all around. It's call St Cecilia. I decided to do it on the base cabinets and the bar top. One less thing for me to do. It'll make it a little more "kitchenie", but I'm OK with that. Got a pretty good deal, better than expected.
> 
> 
> It'll look similar to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Very nice...should look great!


----------



## Sdallnct

Bar sink pic's,


Here is what is looks like if you were walking by the bar or about to go behind the bar. The "window" above the sink is a pass thru to my kitchen and as you can see the sink is just on the other side of the opening. I still need to finish out this opening. (I believe originally the room where my bar is was open to the exterior for there really was a window in this pass thru. I simply removed the window when we did the kitchen).











A close up. As you can see I added Guinness Opener and have a matching "cap catcher" on the way.











An angle shot of what it looks like behind the bar.











This is a "pub" table I picked up. Actually is a close out outdoor "bistro" set from Target. But the colors and such match perfect. The Aluminum framing matches almost exactly with my granite bar top. As you can see I still have some work to do on electrical switches and plugs.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They look sort of like this one only with a web back
> 
> http://www4.jcpenney.com/jcp/Product...=SearchResults



Those are pretty nice. I know thats not exactly what you got. Are yours metal?


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those are pretty nice. I know thats not exactly what you got. Are yours metal?
> 
> 
> Bud



Yup metal. Which I'm not totally thrilled about. But again, I just wanted to get something to put in there and I will continue to look for what I really want. I had friends over last weekend (one of whom helped me install the sink) and it was such a pain to just stand around. We ended taking our beers in the media room which while not bad, is not really set up to just sit around and talk. It is set up to watch a movie!


They should have been here yesterday and doesn't look like will make it today. And since they are shipped directly from the dealer, I can't track the shipping on the JCP web site. I'll take pic's and report back once they come in....


----------



## chinadog

So here is what the bar looks like dry fit with the new framing for the panels. So far, so good. Next Saturday I go to the place that can match the stain for me.



















Still figuring out the panels and the molding themselves. I also ordered corbels to support the granite:








http://www.premierwood.com/catalog/S...?idproduct=835 


The granite is scheduled for install on the 30th.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct

My bar stools finally came in. I put one together this morning.


The good,


-match well in the room with black aluminum frame including "web" back

-small foot print, don't take up a lot of room

-swivel is really a "lazy susan" that can just spin with no "spring back". I like that


The bad,


-while they have a back, it is pretty low. OK for sitting but looks odd with the chair empty

-they are a low seat. They really stretch to call this a 30" chair. Again, not bad when sitting in it, but looks small just sitting there. I measure and including the cushion it is just barely 29.5", but then when you sit the cushion compresses by about 2.5 inches. Course I may have built my bar a little high

-seems a little easy to tip over when sitting in it. But I am a big heavy guy


Now remember I only paid $50 per chair with free shipping on these. So I got four of them for the price of one decent chair.


My bar will pretty easily seat 6 and maybe 7, but I didn't want that many chairs in there all the time. So my plan was to have four nice matching stools always sitting around the bar and then have 2-3 other in the garage or whatever available if I need them when having a party. So I think I will continue to look for four nice stools, and rotate these to the "fill in" chairs when needed.


I'll try to post a pic later once I get them all built.


----------



## Neuner

I'm finally getting a chance to work on mine a little more. It's taking some time since I'm finishing all of the molding and woodwork in my basement at the same time.


It looks contemporary, but this will change as soon as I start adding the finish trim around the lights and edges.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm finally getting a chance to work on mine a little more. It's taking some time since I'm finishing all of the molding and woodwork in my basement at the same time.
> 
> 
> It looks contemporary, but this will change as soon as I start adding the finish trim around the lights and edges.



That is awesome! I'm so jealous of you guys that have basements, all that room!


I like the glass in the middle of the panels. Like your lights. I had some lights picked out at Lowes and they went on clearence, now I can't find them....


----------



## Sdallnct

As promised, pics of my new bar stools. To recap, could not agree with wife on bar stools, especially with the money we were looking at. Was tired of no where to sit, so found these on close out from JCP's for $50 ea w/free shipping.


See my pro's and con's in my prior post. The height actually works about perfect. And the overhang is just fine. Sure a little more room would have been better, but I didn't want to take up that much space in the room.


----------



## chinadog

Very nice!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are the granite shots of the bar. Faucet is not attached, just stuck it in the hole. I'll work on my wood front this weekend.



















Bud


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

I think those bar stools look very nice!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are the granite shots of the bar. Faucet is not attached, just stuck it in the hole. I'll work on my wood fron this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



That top turned out great! I seriously thought about going engineered stone (quartz) as that is what we did out kitchen, but it really would have blown the budget out of the water (it would have been more for the top then everthing else in the room combined!), so I went with granite tile. But I sure like how yours looks.


I see the 2X4 supports, are you going to have to add some bracing? How big is the over hang?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think those bar stools look very nice!



Thanks, you are kind. I'm not "unhappy" with them, but glad they were so cheap or I would not have liked them at all. And it will be nice having something in there over the holiday weekend.


I think, I want to look for wood stools in a dark stain. With all the wood trim pieces I have all over the bar, I think a nice dark wooden bar stool would look much better then the metal.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see the 2X4 supports, are you going to have to add some bracing? How big is the over hang?



I have the panels built for the front of the bar, we did that last weekend. I also have 9 corbels on hand that I need to stain as well. Should be a productive weekend, assuming it doesn't rain. I want to do my staining outside.


Here's what the front panels an d corbels will look like. The overhang is about 9 inches.



















Bud


----------



## GreySkies

Bud-- your panels look fantastic.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, you are kind. I'm not "unhappy" with them, but glad they were so cheap or I would not have liked them at all. And it will be nice having something in there over the holiday weekend.
> 
> 
> I think, I want to look for wood stools in a dark stain. With all the wood trim pieces I have all over the bar, I think a nice dark wooden bar stool would look much better then the metal.



Yeah, you're right, that would look better. Although the black goes nicely with your black granite countertop.


Having extra stools is good though, for overflow crowds.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreySkies* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud-- your panels look fantastic.



Thanks. Can't wait to see how it looks stained.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the panels built for the front of the bar, we did that last weekend. I also have 9 corbels on hand that I need to stain as well. Should be a productive weekend, assuming it doesn't rain. I want to do my staining outside.
> 
> 
> Here's what the front panels an d corbels will look like. The overhang is about 9 inches.
> 
> 
> Bud



Yup, stain outside if at all possible. I "learned to stain" during this project and while it seems easy, I learned quickly you have to have patience. On my cabinets and trim, I sanded everything before starting, two coats of stain with sanding in between then two coats of clear coat, sanding in between. Between the messy staining and sanding, I'm very glad I did it outside.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Staining is a major PITA. Messy too. Best attempted outside where you can minimize the mess.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Staining is a major PITA. Messy too. Best attempted outside where you can minimize the mess.



My wife did our staining, which included the ceiling behind the bar. After a couple of hours of hearing her cursing like a sailor, she emerged, splotched like a leopard with Miniwaw Red Sedona #222. Oh, and it's oil-based as well, so it doesn't clean up with water (but covers and penetrates beautifully). She showered, scrubbing with Comet to get it off.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the panels built for the front of the bar, we did that last weekend. I also have 9 corbels on hand that I need to stain as well. Should be a productive weekend, assuming it doesn't rain. I want to do my staining outside.
> 
> 
> Here's what the front panels an d corbels will look like. The overhang is about 9 inches.
> 
> 
> Bud



I have 8" overhang and do wish it was an inch or two more, but it works fine.


I see what you did now. I have 8" granite tile overhang and did not add outside bracing. But I built up the top with 3/4" OSB and then 1/4" cement backer board the exact size of the tile, before putting the tile on.


I really like the nice clean look you got.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Sounds familiar.


Kudos on passing off the job to the wife. Well done.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds familiar.
> 
> 
> Kudos on passing off the job to the wife. Well done.



A good manager knows when to do the work and when to delegate it.











(please don't tell my wife I said that)


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreySkies* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A good manager knows when to do the work and when to delegate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (please don't tell my wife I said that)



Yikes. Don't worry, I won't. I wouldn't want to have a guy's death on my conscience.


----------



## Sdallnct

A special note/warning for those going with granite:


I was really cleaning up the bar this morning and noticed I had a water stain or two on my granite tiles. Now I have been pretty careful (but it is a bar). And after installing I did seal the tile (maybe I need to do it again). It is not enough to worry about (it is on the bartenders side), but it did catch my attention. I do have coasters and napkins.


Now it is possible that these are not the highest quality granite and maybe I should seal them again. But for those using granite you might read up and follow recommendations closely so you don't have an issue with staining.


----------



## chinadog

Here are the final pictures of the bar with the stained panels/corbels installed. I jsut need some quarter round and thats it for now. I may do a foot rail at some point.



























Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A special note/warning for those going with granite:
> 
> 
> I was really cleaning up the bar this morning and noticed I had a water stain or two on my granite tiles. Now I have been pretty careful (but it is a bar). And after installing I did seal the tile (maybe I need to do it again). It is not enough to worry about (it is on the bartenders side), but it did catch my attention. I do have coasters and napkins.
> 
> 
> Now it is possible that these are not the highest quality granite and maybe I should seal them again. But for those using granite you might read up and follow recommendations closely so you don't have an issue with staining.



I know that if you don't seal it, you may get water marks, depending on the stone. I was told to seal mine twice a year for the lighter colors and once a year for the darker (we have a dark granite in our kitchen). I haven't seen any stains yet. It may be less noticeable with granite that has mutliple colors in it as well.


Bud


----------



## R_Willis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are the final pictures of the bar with the stained panels/corbels installed. I jsut need some quarter round and thats it for now. I may do a foot rail at some point.



Gorgeous! I'd definately add some foot-rail, but that's just my opinion. You can get it in silver (stainless looking) or brass for sure.


Great job!!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are the final pictures of the bar with the stained panels/corbels installed. I jsut need some quarter round and thats it for now. I may do a foot rail at some point.
> 
> 
> Bud



Very, very nice! Very classy looking.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know that if you don't seal it, you may get water marks, depending on the stone. I was told to seal mine twice a year for the lighter colors and once a year for the darker (we have a dark granite in our kitchen). I haven't seen any stains yet. It may be less noticeable with granite that has mutliple colors in it as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Well my granite tiles are black. I think I'm going to pick up some more seal and do it again. I was more worried about the grout then the tile, but looks like I'm going to have to watch out for the tiles as well.


BTW, I picked up a wooden bar caddy set from this place,

http://alcoholcontrols.barstore.com/ 


It looks like this only I got the cherry wood set,











Works really well even for day to day stuff. The set I got also came with two coaster holders, and 6 compartment condiment holder.


But the multi function piece the I put the image in is the most useful piece for me. Napkins, coasters, openers, toothpicks, all handy in one organized small "box".


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. I think it turned out well. Still waiting on my glass doors, the ones installed were the wrong ones. I need to install the dishwasher and hook up the faucet as well. Oh and reverse the door on the fridge. Still need to figure out the backsplash as well.


I don't think I'd go with a brass footrail, but will likely add something at some point.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think I'd go with a brass footrail, but will likely add something at some point.
> 
> 
> Bud



I think that is a good call. As soon as I finished my bar, I was going to add one cause it "really looked like it needed it". But once I added bar stools you almost don't look down there anymore.


Where are you needing the backsplash? Just on the bar itself or above the sink/frig as well?


----------



## chinadog

Definately around the sink area, but would likely continue under the wall cabinets. I just don't want it to look more like a kitchen, so tile is out. I don't think I want a mirror and wanted to something a little more creative. Someone mentioned stamped copper. I was also thinking about using tin ceiling tiles, assuming I found the right look. Not sure though.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct

I used the tin ceiling tiles for the back splash in my kitchen. It is fairly easy to work with. You will need a couple of pairs of good tin snips and a metal bit for a drill. I just glued mine on (liqued nail) and didn't mess with nails.


















I was planning on using the left over tin for the backsplash on the bar. However, I had some left over wood molding that fit perfectly, so I used that instead. I only had the area behind the bar to do.


----------



## chinadog

That looks pretty nice. Are those a dark silver or are they more black? Wasn't sure if the flash washed out the color.


Bud


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

I like the idea of the tin ceiling tiles as a backsplash. I've been trying to decide how to do a backsplash in my kitchen for a while now. I think I might steal that idea.










Bud - Your bar looks great. What stain did you use, btw?


Sdall - Weren't you considering a bar-table like BuffBakerGA awhile back? If so, I've updated the thread in the theater room forum with my project.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That looks pretty nice. Are those a dark silver or are they more black? Wasn't sure if the flash washed out the color.
> 
> 
> Bud



These are sort of a silver/grey background and if you look closely you see sort of black specks, if the makes sense.


Personally, I liked the tins, but didn't like the color. My wife picked the color so I'll giver her the credit or the blame. But she likes it, so guess that is all that matters.


We ordered about 12 samples before deciding on which color to get. We got from,

http://www.americantinceilings.com/?...FRZXWAoddBBCbQ 


They have a section on using them as back splashes. It really is easy, tho remember this is tin. I cut my finger pretty good once. Here is the FAQ's for doing a back splash. BTW, they talk about adding trim to "finish" the ends. I just planned it where I any visible ends were "factory finished" so I really didn't bother with any trim. I had also added under counter lights, and they do reflect off the tin a little and look nice.


I noticed they added a note about uneven cutting with tin snips. This is VERY true. Now in my situation, I was planning on adding under counter lights, so when I had the cabinets installed I had them do a light rail. So when I cut the tins, I put the cut end at the top, where unless you stick your head under the counter, you can't see it. But if you don't have a light rail, you might follow their suggestion and have them cut. In my case I got luck and only wasted two pieces. I was able to slide the cut portion behind the microwave, so again, you don't see anything uneven. I ended up with a pretty clean look. Only one seem didn't come out like I wanted, but it is back in the corner where you don't see it.

http://www.americantinceilings.com/p...plash-faq.html


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the links, I'll check it out. I have Tin snips and from my previous work doing some HVAC, you're right, ragged edge. I was thinking that if you left a 1/2 or so extra on the edge you cut you could probably fold the extra over and flatten it out creating a clean line. Not sure how think the panels are though. When I was forming an in-wall return, i clamped some sheet metal between a few 2x4s and folded it over to get a straight line. Might work, not sure.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - Your bar looks great. What stain did you use, btw?



Thanks. I found out about a place that does stain matching. I wanted to match the color of the front of the bar with the new cabinets. You bring in a sample that you want to match, like a door and a piece of scrap wood you want to use and they'll mix up a stain for you. In my case, there was a pre-made stain (#235, but don't remember the color name) that was very close, so I went with that. Apparently the stain is popular among woodworkers, the guy that helped me make the panels owns a cabinet shop and he swears by the stuff. They also made wood fillers for all sorts of woods.


It's called Wood Finishers Supply and they have multiple locations/distributors, including the one here close to me. Click on the complete list of locations .


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the links, I'll check it out. I have Tin snips and from my previous work doing some HVAC, you're right, ragged edge. I was thinking that if you left a 1/2 or so extra on the edge you cut you could probably fold the extra over and flatten it out creating a clean line. Not sure how think the panels are though. When I was forming an in-wall return, i clamped some sheet metal between a few 2x4s and folded it over to get a straight line. Might work, not sure.
> 
> 
> Bud



Sounds like you have more experience then I do with the metal. I had no luck folding or bending the tin. For example, in the one corner I had, I was just going to use a single piece, bent at the corner. I couldn't get it straight or tight enough, so I cut the piece. But again, with your experience, you might make it work.


You can order samples (like we did for color) and that might give you a hint as to what might work. Also, you might be able to rent or borrow as heavy duty guillotine cutter. I would think this would give you a straight line.


Overall I'm happy with the look and how it installed. I wanted a more nuetral color, but wife one out on that....but I'm not bitter


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like the idea of the tin ceiling tiles as a backsplash. I've been trying to decide how to do a backsplash in my kitchen for a while now. I think I might steal that idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud - Your bar looks great. What stain did you use, btw?
> 
> 
> Sdall - Weren't you considering a bar-table like BuffBakerGA awhile back? If so, I've updated the thread in the theater room forum with my project.



Steal away!


can you post a link, I can't seem to find your thread....I bought a small outdoor bistro set, but I might be interested in building something....


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steal away!
> 
> 
> can you post a link, I can't seem to find your thread....I bought a small outdoor bistro set, but I might be interested in building something....



Here you go:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676030 


In looking at the thread, I must've gotten you mixed up with another poster, as I don't see where you posted there, but hopefully it'll be some use anyway!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676030
> 
> 
> In looking at the thread, I must've gotten you mixed up with another poster, as I don't see where you posted there, but hopefully it'll be some use anyway!



Nice bar top for the HT Room. No I don't have room for that. My rear row of within about 9" of my rear wall. And the seats rock!


I was looking for like a free standing pub table to build. I have a free corner open in my bar, and my wife doesn't like sitting at a bar (she is short) so she really wanted a "small pub table/bistro table".


We have picked one up from Target on sale...but always looking for another DIY project (tho I seem to have plenty to do).


----------



## SWB001

Bud and other who built a knee wall . . .


What height and width did you use? 40.5" for a 1.5" top? Use 2"x6" lumber? How does the bar top (granite) mount to the top of the wall?


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SWB001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud and other who built a knee wall . . .
> 
> 
> What height and width did you use? 40.5" for a 1.5" top? Use 2"x6" lumber? How does the bar top (granite) mount to the top of the wall?
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott,


Just replied to your PM. 2x6 construction definitely. Helps to run the PVC for the sink. My raw framed knee wall was 42". Keep flooring in mind when you figure that out, if you use solid wood floors, you'll lost 3/4 inch. Granite was about 1.5". I recommend using Home Depot design to lay out the bar/cabinets. It doesn't cost anything and at least you'll have all the dimensions to build from. The granite is attached with silicon.


Bud


----------



## jkv

for those of you who have built your bars, what is a good distance to use for behind the bar? By that I mean the distance between the wall (or other cabinets) and the start of the bar. Is 4' good enough or should I go a bit bigger? I don't want it to be too cramped if 2 people are behind the counter/bar but I don't want to intrude on the room either.


thanks


----------



## chinadog

This will give you an idea of my dimensions. Initially I thought there was a lot of room, but when you add cabinets, it got smaller pretty quick. I then thought it would be too small, but its just right for me. Enough room for a person or two, but thats about it.


Here are the dimensions for the bar. I used Home Depot to help with the design, they generated this plan that I used to build the knee wall.










I only one minor change after the framing was done, I swapped out a small bookcase for some 12" cabinets at the end by the opening (B2412BUTT). I wanted storage for little things like corkscrews, bottle openers, other bar accessories and not decorative stuff.


Hope it helps.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We ordered about 12 samples before deciding on which color to get.



Just ordered 10 samples from them. I saw another site that has 2x4 panels for back splashes, so I may end up going that route.


I was also thinking about old licenses plates! Maybe just black with white letters, maybe in a mosaic look, not sure. Maybe just put it together like a jigsaw puzzle. Haven't put too much thought into it. I bought a few plates on ebay before, they're pretty cheap and wouldn't need too many. The wife wasn't real thrilled with that idea, but not sure I really described it well to her.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered 10 samples from them. I saw another site that has 2x4 panels for back splashes, so I may end up going that route.
> 
> 
> I was also thinking about old licenses plates! Maybe just black with white letters, maybe in a mosaic look, not sure. Maybe just put it together like a jigsaw puzzle. Haven't put too much thought into it. I bought a few plates on ebay before, they're pretty cheap and wouldn't need too many. The wife wasn't real thrilled with that idea, but not sure I really described it well to her.
> 
> 
> Bud



License plates would be cool. We tried to think of some creative things for our kitchen before we went with the tin. I looked into just getting metal roof flashing, but the wife didn't like. We found this "outdoor art" that was basically painting on a metal canvas. We were going to put that behind the oven, then wallpaper the rest of the area. But we decided that wouldn't look at that great on our oven as we have a basic 30" range. If you had a larger pro-type range it might work. I thought about mounting some laminate designed for counter tops on tongue and groove plywood and using that for a back splash, but decided against that as well. Tho we found some laminate that might have worked well.


If you search some of the home improvement sites, you will find some pretty creative stuff out there.


----------



## rmcveigh

I posted a question over in the HT construction forum but it really is more of a bar question, so I figured I'd post the same here. Here's a link to that thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=741714 


Does anyone have any thoughts on my plans? Thanks,


-Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Ryan, speaking in general terms, your bar is not much different that mine. Sure, mine is angled and we have different stuff, but not that different. If you think you have enough storage, forget moving the bar forward. Thats where ours are similar, I have cabinets on a side wall and the half wall. Thats plenty of room for a bar. Besides you'll need that wall for hanging a nice plasma for the folks perched there ... make sure you consider prewiring for a TV anyway.


Which way is the HT door going to open? In towards the HT room?


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct

Nice layout. I like the two frig idea. I have one beverage center (beer only) in my bar, but now I'm thinking of adding a small wine frig. Very smart adding the dishwasher as I assume your kitchen is on the main floor.


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ryan, speaking in general terms, your bar is not much different that mine. Sure, mine is angled and we have different stuff, but not that different. If you think you have enough storage, forget moving the bar forward. Thats where ours are similar, I have cabinets on a side wall and the half wall. Thats plenty of room for a bar. Besides you'll need that wall for hanging a nice plasma for the folks perched there ... make sure you consider prewiring for a TV anyway.
> 
> 
> Which way is the HT door going to open? In towards the HT room?
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud - I posted some new pics in the other thread. In short, we want the overall appearance from the rest of the basement to be more bar-like and less like some cabinets and counters off in the corner (or even worse, like a kitchen). The HT door probably will open out as I plan to have a riser in the back of the room and don't want to impede the door opening.


-Ryan


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice layout. I like the two frig idea. I have one beverage center (beer only) in my bar, but now I'm thinking of adding a small wine frig. Very smart adding the dishwasher as I assume your kitchen is on the main floor.



Thanks. Yep, we have our kitchen on the main floor just above this space. The wine-fridge is pretty much a must-have for us. I'll probably upgrade my kitchen's dishwasher as well and move the existing (loud) one down to the bar. I'd love to have a full-size fridge down in the basement as well, but space is limited and getting that down my stairs would be exciting to say the least. Looks like our future second fridge will end up in the garage, and we'll use a "beverage cooler" downstairs.


-Ryan


----------



## Sdallnct

I don't know if you have done your backsplash or not, but I was at Lowes today and they had some "faux" tin backsplashes. Yes they look exactly like tin and they even have the exact same pattern as our tin, but when I picked on up it was a heavy plastic rather then tin. I have never seen this stuff before. I picked up a brochure and it is ACP "Decorative Thermoplastic Panels". You got to see them, they look exactly like the tin, but they are not! Weird. Now I don't like the idea that when you touch them you can feel they are plastic, but I image would be a lot easier to work with. They even have matching trim pieces and matching self stick "paper" to go over outlets. At $18.00 per piece, I thing they are more then I paid for the tin, but again, another option and should be super easy to work with.

http://www.acpideas.com/home.cfm?Xli...TOKEN=29892888 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered 10 samples from them. I saw another site that has 2x4 panels for back splashes, so I may end up going that route.
> 
> 
> I was also thinking about old licenses plates! Maybe just black with white letters, maybe in a mosaic look, not sure. Maybe just put it together like a jigsaw puzzle. Haven't put too much thought into it. I bought a few plates on ebay before, they're pretty cheap and wouldn't need too many. The wife wasn't real thrilled with that idea, but not sure I really described it well to her.
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## cfmustang

Sdallnct and Chinadog,


I have been following this thread a while and am planning on using this idea for my basement/media/multipurpose room bar. In fact, this tread lead me to the AVS Forums and has got my mind whirling with ideas for the room.


My bar will be a bit smaller and have more of a Deco look to it. I'll post some SketchUp pictures or what I am thinking when I have enough posts under my belt to allow me to add links.


Anyway, I did have one question: Is the top level counter top on the half-wall very secure? My design will not allow for any sort of corbel to help with support.


-Chris


----------



## chinadog

Chris,


I would venture to say that the granite (without corbels) isn't going anywhere, but can you stand on it? No. You might want a little less overhang than normal if you have not corbels. If you have any overhang, you should be able to use small corbels. Also, I used 2x6 construction on the knee wall as well. What will you be using?


Bud


----------



## cfmustang

I was planning to use at least 2x6 construction for the knee wall as well. The problem with corbels is that I want to have some sort of backlit translucent panel for the facing or my knee wall. I was thinking of something like the glass block that was shown earlier in the thread or some sort of frosted glass panel.


As for the countertops, I was planning on going with something a little different. Zinc. I figure I can use MDF as the substrate and then form sheet zinc over the MDF. I have found some suppliers for the zinc sheets along with zinc solder to solder the joints. I just need to find someone with a metal break to form the sheets for me.


I'll try and get the SketchUp drawing done and posted this weekend.


-Chris


----------



## Sdallnct

This photo even tho blurry, shows how I built my bar top. Basically I built a half wall turning the studs sideways. I then added a 2X4 level with the top of the studs on both sides of the studs.


On top of this I put 3/4" OSB if I remember (tho maybe plywood), then 1/4" cement backer board, the granite tile on top of that. The total depth of the bar top (not including trim) is exactly 12". Why 12"? Because I was using 12" tiles. The overhang is about 8". I wish I did more of an overhang, but the room I put this in was not very wide. So I was actually trying to keep the bar as narrow as possible, but still comfortable. It is very solid. No need for additional support. I'm very happy with it considering I have never built anything like that before.


Oh the 2X4 you see running across the floor at the bottom was for support during construction. I actually removed it when doing the trim out. The cabinets are screen into my concrete slab between the gouts of my tile floor, with the stud wall screwed in the cabinets. The unit is very, very solid.


----------



## Clarence

I love reading these threads about building bars. That's going to be my winter HT project... a simple 6' bar behind my back row.


My room is waaaay too small for this one, but I came across this picture while searching the web for ideas and pics...











In Atlanta... $25K on ebay.


----------



## cfmustang

Okay.


I have never used SketchUp before, but here are two quick renders of what I am thinking about. They are basically to scale, but some details were made up on the fly and others are still being worked out in my head.


Front:










Back:


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Clarence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love reading these threads about building bars. That's going to be my winter HT project... a simple 6' bar behind my back row.
> 
> 
> My room is waaaay too small for this one, but I came across this picture while searching the web for ideas and pics...
> 
> 
> In Atlanta... $25K on ebay.



Looking forward to seeing your bar progress. Keep us posted!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

cfmustang,


Any more progress on your bar? I'd like to see how that Zinc works out.


Bud


----------



## cfmustang

Sorry, no real progress.


Things were too hectic the past month and now the holidays are too close to start the project. If I were to start running the power tools downstairs now, getting sawdust everywhere, my wife would kill me.


So, I will start after the New Year. The extra time is giving me a chance to rethink my design a bit. I am thinking of scrapping the glass block/lit panel knee wall and going with a deco style wood panel. I still plan on going with the zinc counter tops though.


Maybe this weekend I can work on the Sketch Up images again and come up with a updated design.


----------



## msulinski

Are any of you guys putting under-counter ice makers in your bars? I highly recommend doing so if you can spare the 15 inches. If you try to use an ice bucket, you'll run out too quickly and/or the ice won't be cold enough.


----------



## patrickjherbert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msulinski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are any of you guys putting under-counter ice makers in your bars? I highly recommend doing so if you can spare the 15 inches. If you try to use an ice bucket, you'll run out too quickly and/or the ice won't be cold enough.




I was on the fence when they were going for $200, but I was in the local Big Orange the other day dropping another large amount of cash on other things when I saw they had the magic Chef MCIM30TS for $150 with an additional $30 rebate. Was just there again tonight and they had a few left. At $120, I couldn't get in on the flatbed fast enough!


FYI it works like a champ, cranking out the first cubes in under 10 minutes and keeps 'em coming like clockwork every ten or so thereafter. This one is a hair under 17" tall.


----------



## chinadog

Pat, do you have a sku or a picture? You have me curious now.


Bud


----------



## patrickjherbert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pat, do you have a sku or a picture? You have me curious now.
> 
> 
> Bud



It looks like this:

http://www.shentech.com/mcim30twdh.html 


I also got some hits googling "home depot magic chef ice maker" but the HD site seems to be down. Don't know if this promotion is local to Denver. The rebate form did not indicate that it was.


BTW, I've been following your thread for almost a year, and not only was it a great inspiration but you gave me a fine tip on the beverage cooler, which I ran out and bought before I'd even made much of a start on my room. Now I'm hoping to be finished in two weeks and plan to repost all my pictures in a new thread. Hopefully you will stop by and take a look. I never knew if I should post the original in the general or dedicated area, but decided on the general because it's a multipurpose room. it never attracted much comment for some reason.


Thanks


----------



## chinadog

Pat, thanks. I see it on their site now. Their search engine is dismal. 199.00! You did get a good deal. I need to pick up a second beverage cooler as well in the next month or so (prior to Superbowl).


Looks like you last posted in early November. I've got it marked now. Looking forward to the new pictures!


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct

Haven't posted any new pic's since my bar stool pic's. But really havn't done much more. Just some decorating (and father and law got a dart board for us for X-mas).


I did get my TV mounted and the trim installed around the opening under the TV and above the sink.


















I am looking for some suggestions for shelving. See the window just left of the bar? It is about 4" deep and I thought I would put some 4" shelving in there to hold my pint classes. The window is 36" wide, so a little big for glass. Was thinking about just using some 1x4's and paint to match.


Any other thoughts or ideas?


----------



## Neuner

For shelving, I would install 1/4" thick glass shelves. This is what I did for shelving in my bathroom and love how it turned out.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pat, thanks. I see it on their site now. Their search engine is dismal. 199.00! You did get a good deal. I need to pick up a second beverage cooler as well in the next month or so (prior to Superbowl).
> 
> 
> Looks like you last posted in early November. I've got it marked now. Looking forward to the new pictures!
> 
> 
> Bud



I saw a unit similar at Costco for about $150 a while back. After reading a fellow AVS'ers experiece with these units, I passed. He had mentioned that they can develop mildew if not cleaned frequently between usage ( I am assuming after the unit is off and not being used and water is left in unit).


Here is what Skippy31 said about this type of unit;


I used to have one of these portable ice makers not the exact one referred to here. Now I have an ice maker built into my main fridge.


The portable unit worked really well (make ice really fast and lots of it) and did not require a water hookup. The only drawbacks were:


1. You need to clean it regularly to make sure it is sanitary especially after it's been sitting for a while (parhaps with water in it).


2. The fan on mine was quite loud. As a result in my open concept house I would only run the unit when I needed ice and then turn it off afterwards. Unit was too loud to run all the time in my application. It would preclude using it near a theater etc where it would be distracting.


Best Regards,


Skippy31


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For shelving, I would install 1/4" thick glass shelves. This is what I did for shelving in my bathroom and love how it turned out.



You think it could handle the 36" width with no support in between? There would not be a lot of weight on them, 5-6 empty pint glasses. I would love to do glass. I know to get 4" X 36" I would have to have it cut and it would need to be tempered...just in case.


Guess I'll check with a couple of local glass companies....


----------



## scaesare




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Haven't posted any new pic's since my bar stool pic's. But really havn't done much more. Just some decorating (and father and law got a dart board for us for X-mas).
> 
> 
> I did get my TV mounted and the trim installed around the opening under the TV and above the sink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for some suggestions for shelving. See the window just left of the bar? It is about 4" deep and I thought I would put some 4" shelving in there to hold my pint classes. The window is 36" wide, so a little big for glass. Was thinking about just using some 1x4's and paint to match.
> 
> 
> Any other thoughts or ideas?



I had a ~6' span HERE behind my bar that I wanted glass shelves for. I opted to put a center support in to break it in to two 36" spans. I was supporting liquor bottles, so I went w/ 3/8" glass, and they are VERY strong. I'd suspect 1/4" would be ok for just some glasses.


----------



## cfmustang

I was going to say the 36" should be fine too, as long as you use think enough glass. I had a 30" window in my old house spanned by glass shelves. They held my glass collection with no problem.


As for an update on my bar, I found a sheet zinc supplier for the counter top and they are supposed to be sending me a sample of the .030" zinc today. That way I can get a better idea of the look along with an idea of how difficult it will be to fabricate.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scaesare* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a ~6' span HERE behind my bar that I wanted glass shelves for. I opted to put a center support in to break it in to two 36" spans. I was supporting liquor bottles, so I went w/ 3/8" glass, and they are VERY strong. I'd suspect 1/4" would be ok for just some glasses.



Nice looking. And your are right, you have a lot more weight on those then I will.


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You think it could handle the 36" width with no support in between? There would not be a lot of weight on them, 5-6 empty pint glasses. I would love to do glass. I know to get 4" X 36" I would have to have it cut and it would need to be tempered...just in case.
> 
> 
> Guess I'll check with a couple of local glass companies....



Mine are 4 feet long and 12 inches wide. I got mine from one of the Glazing contractors we frequently use. With my span he said 1/4" was enough for what I was going to use it for,


----------



## Neuner

I was in Best Buy the other day and saw the following fridge for $250, but they are showing it on their website for $350. Hopefully the store price it correct. It locks & has dual zones which I hadn't seen before.


If the price is really that much, then I'm thinking about this danby . Anybody know anything about them?


----------



## R_Willis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was in Best Buy the other day and saw the following fridge for $250, but they are showing it on their website for $350. Hopefully the store price it correct. It locks & has dual zones which I hadn't seen before...........................................



Just make sure either way, you get something that is made to be "built-in" if in fact your building it into a bar (ie:dishwasher in your kitchen) as they need to be vented differently. Most built in fridges/wine have vents down at the very bottom in the front.


Here are some good online companies to browse/shop:

http://www.summitappliance.com/ 
http://www.u-line.com/


----------



## Sdallnct

Just and FYI for this interested:


Just before x-mas Lowes had a small counter top wine frigerator, holds like eight bottles. It was like $80, now down to $60. They still had a pallet full of them. I asked the guy if they would go lower and he said maybe another $20 off after the weekend!


I'll keep my eye open. I really wanted something that would hold a case, but if I can pick it up for $40, I might just do it. Heck, might get two....


----------



## Neuner

I've gotten a little bit further with mine. My main goal is to the top completed so it can be used for serving food for my little girls birthday party so I really need to hurry. The rest of the finish trim is going to have to come later. It's taking a while since I'm working on the rest of the trim for the Media Room at the same time.






































I'm trying to figure out what to put behind the bar; plate glass mirror, picture/painting? I might be able to fit thin shelves for bar glasses, but not sure what I want to do.


----------



## Javatime

how did you make the elbow rest on the top? Is it a solid piece?


----------



## cfmustang

I finally got around to playing with the zinc sheet samples last night. I received two small squares at .030" and .027" thickness. The .027" sheet seems like it will easily be thick enough and it is quite a bit less expensive.


I cut and bent the .027" square to simulate a corner piece and then soldered the joint. Trying to bend it with the tools I have at home proved to me that I'll need to find a sheet metal break to get the bends I need, but I am not too concerned about that. The other thing I learned is that regular old tin solder does a fine job joining the seams. I don't have fine enough sand paper at home (probably need 1000 grit) to blend the seam to the zinc, but I am convinced that when I do, it will be nearly invisible. I'll post a pic this evening.


----------



## chinadog

I'm curious, have any pictures of the zinc stuff?


Bud


----------



## cfmustang

It took a while to get a clear picture because the sample is small and I had to zoom quite a bit to show detail, so getting it focused was a bear...


(...and I am about worthless with a camera)










Anyway, here is the .027 sample with two ends bent and the corner joint soldered. I think it will come out quite nice.











Like I said, I will need to find someone with a sheet metal break to get nice clean bends, but that shouldn't be too hard. It cuts really nice with metal shears, seems very dent/gouge resistant and can be finished many different ways. Apparently, zinc has been the material of choice for years at oyster/raw bars.


----------



## Liquorsuit

I found a home bar tutorial from Kegworks before I started designing my home bar. It was a HUGE help as I was better able to plan things.

The link is in their Tips & Tricks section at the very bottom of the web page.


I also bought most of my bar supplies from them.


----------



## cfmustang

Out of curiosity, what height did everyone use for their bar counter? I purchased my wine fridge and most of the wood this past weekend and am getting ready to start building this week.


It looks like standard bar height is around 42", but I would like to know what you guys used and if it is comfortable. Also, how much of an overhang were you using for your counter tops? 1" 1 1/4"?


----------



## HeyNow^

This weekend I actually found my original cutout layout that I took to Lowes for them to cut my plywood sides. I figured 42 inches for my *finished* top. So my side panels were 40.5 inches with a layer of 3/4 plywood and then the final 3/4 inch flooring on top of that. I wouldn't change my current bar height and the stools fit perfectly. If you decide to go with lower stools then you could drop your bar height down to accomodate lower stools.


----------



## scaesare

Right about 42"


----------



## buckrogers71

Lots of great bars! Here is mine. Its modest, but it does the trick on a teacher's budget and its all mine!










































Under the bar I have a small refridgerator, a wine cooler and my beer miester.

I used hanging cabinets and built them up to be base cabinets as I recessed them into the wall and I didnt have the depth for standard base cabinets.


I would like to do a couple of other things, but they will have to wait.


The pool table is a 4x8 w/ subway returns.


The LCD and AV equipment is upstairs in the living room.


If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.


----------



## msulinski




> Quote:
> Out of curiosity, what height did everyone use for their bar counter? I purchased my wine fridge and most of the wood this past weekend and am getting ready to start building this week.
> 
> 
> It looks like standard bar height is around 42", but I would like to know what you guys used and if it is comfortable. Also, how much of an overhang were you using for your counter tops? 1" 1 1/4"?



Most bars are generally 2-tiered - the 42" is for comfortably accomodating bar stools and those sitting on them. You are still going to want standard counter height (34"?) for a second, lower level for you to work at while behind the bar. 42" is too high (for most) to work on comfortably.


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msulinski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Most bars are generally 2-tiered - the 42" is for comfortably accomodating bar stools and those sitting on them. You are still going to want standard counter height (34"?) for a second, lower level for you to work at while behind the bar. 42" is too high (for most) to work on comfortably.



I agree w/ MS. My bar measures 41" from floor to top. My stools are 29" from the floor to the seat and it is quite comfortable. However, I built my bar about 10 years ago, before I had internet and people started to post plans. What I did was go the local establishments and measured. Yes I got some crazy looks, but I got the measurements I wanted.


The only thing that I regret is not making it 2 tiered. I also regret that I didnt buy a bigger house that would have allowed me to do that.


As for a sink, I wish I had one, but I just take the dishes (mainly glasses







) right upstairs and toss em in the sink. Its not too bad but...


----------



## Rupert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckrogers71* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lots of great bars! Here is mine. Its modest, but it does the trick on a teacher's budget and its all mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.




Buck...where did you get your bar stools?


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rupert* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Buck...where did you get your bar stools?



To tell the truth, I dont remember







I did a search on the net and found a place that had them. I will look through some of my paperwork and see if I have the place.

Sorry.


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cfmustang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, what height did everyone use for their bar counter? I purchased my wine fridge and most of the wood this past weekend and am getting ready to start building this week.
> 
> 
> It looks like standard bar height is around 42", but I would like to know what you guys used and if it is comfortable. Also, how much of an overhang were you using for your counter tops? 1" 1 1/4"?



Mine is 42-1/2". I only have a small 2-tiered area for the bar sink with a custom cabinet below and love how it turned out. Even though I didn't have the top completely done, testing it out at a party, it worked wonderfully. I was glad I didn't have the 2-tier because people congregated behind & in front of the bar and commented how nice it was. It was a great gathering area that I was hoping it would be. Once I install the bar rail, the overhang in front will be ~12" and I sit comfortably without hitting my knees on the front of the bar.


----------



## cfmustang

I thought it was 42", but I wanted to make sure. You know, "Measure twice..."


I was planning on doing a two-tier construction as well. Unfortunately, no sink. I didn't plan for running water or a drain down there when I finished the basement last year.


Anyway, here are the cabinets and the wine/beverage fridge. Actually, they will be moving forward about 4", so that outlet will be hidden (pure luck there). Don't pay attention to the mess down there right now.


----------



## buckrogers71

did you get them at lowes? they were similar to the ones that i was looking at for my back cabinets.


may i suggest getting another one around the same size and possibly a smaller one? I will tell you one thing, they will fill up quick. Being married, the wife has filled up the ones that I built behind the bar.


what are you going to do for a top? i did a piece of 3/4" oak vaneer ply and then stained it and put some Behr 50 over it.The Behr 50 is like 50 coats of poly in one application. I dont know if they make it anymore, but if you are going the wood route, check at a marine supply store, they would have some type of water proof varnish.


Good luck w/ the project and keep us posted.


----------



## cfmustang

I got them at Home Depot. I believe that both stores carry the same brand cabinets.


I would like to get more, but unfortunately space is at a premium downstairs. I kept trying to find a way to make it a L-shaped bar, but to keep it from overwhelming the room made the space behind the bar to tight.


I am thinking a way to get around this will be a second phase...a back bar. The pictures don't show it well, but there will be some room directly behind the bar for a back bar. Since that won't need to be full depth, I am planning on buying more of the same cabinets and cutting down the depth of them to maybe 18". I haven't sketched all that out but it seems like the way to go. If you go back a page or two, you will see a SketchUp render that shows my original plan (with a older design for the bar) from the other angle showing the bar from the front and you will see where I can put the back bar.


For the counter top I am going with metal. I purchased 3/4" MDF that I will be building up to standard counter top height 1 1/2" and then covering with .027" sheet zinc.


----------



## buckrogers71

CF, might I suggest this for your back bar cabinets. Get some hanging cabinets. I know, I know, "They are way too short." The get some 2x10's and some plywood. Build up the base until they are the height that you want.


I did this with some cabinets behind my bar and recessed them. I put a small oak shelf on them and viola. A little work station and some extra cabinet space.


I will see if I still have the pics of the job.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckrogers71* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lots of great bars! Here is mine. Its modest, but it does the trick on a teacher's budget and its all mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the bar I have a small refridgerator, a wine cooler and my beer miester.
> 
> I used hanging cabinets and built them up to be base cabinets as I recessed them into the wall and I didnt have the depth for standard base cabinets.
> 
> 
> I would like to do a couple of other things, but they will have to wait.
> 
> 
> The pool table is a 4x8 w/ subway returns.
> 
> 
> The LCD and AV equipment is upstairs in the living room.
> 
> 
> If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.



Now that is a bar that I could belly up to and feel at home. Thanks for sharing your bar!


----------



## cfmustang

Got the frame of the half-wall done. This gives a little better idea of the design I am going with. A bit more of a modern look than most on here, but that is the style of the room - a touch modern.











Next up will be sheathing the front and back of the half-wall with 1/2" oak veneer plywood and veneering the angled edge with oak veneer... All nice and smooth...


----------



## buckrogers71

looks good! its on its way!


----------



## tank3467




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckrogers71* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lots of great bars! Here is mine. Its modest, but it does the trick on a teacher's budget and its all mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the bar I have a small refridgerator, a wine cooler and my beer miester.
> 
> I used hanging cabinets and built them up to be base cabinets as I recessed them into the wall and I didnt have the depth for standard base cabinets.
> 
> 
> I would like to do a couple of other things, but they will have to wait.
> 
> 
> The pool table is a 4x8 w/ subway returns.
> 
> 
> The LCD and AV equipment is upstairs in the living room.
> 
> 
> If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.




I deleted the pics so my post wasnt so big, but I have a question, what type of wood did you use on the front of you bar. It looks a lot what I have pictured in my mind. My plan is to use cedar along the front and sides of the bar and Im thinking of using redwood on the bar top. Also those bar stools are exactly what im looking for, if you dont mind, where did you get them.


----------



## tank3467

I havent had time to actually start working on my bar but I have made a couple of drawings using sketchup. This is the room Im working on, pretty much to scale. The floor actually looks a lot like in the pics, and the red wall is actually close the same color. The clear wall should also be red, but im new to sketchup and cant get it to work. I really hope to have to bar done in the next few weeks, but we'll see.



Let me know what u think.



(had to delete these pics to try to get new ones up)


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tank3467* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I deleted the pics so my post wasnt so big, but I have a question, what type of wood did you use on the front of you bar. It looks a lot what I have pictured in my mind. My plan is to use cedar along the front and sides of the bar and Im thinking of using redwood on the bar top. Also those bar stools are exactly what im looking for, if you dont mind, where did you get them.



I used pine tongue and groove bead board from depot. I took some leftover 1x's and attached them horizontally and attached the bead board vertically.

If i was to do it again, I would have done a flat front w/ some raised panels.

The stain is special walnut by minwax.



The top is 3/4 oak vaneer plywood.


As for the stools, I thought that I had the sales slip from the internet company that we ordered them from, but sadly I dont. I found a lot of other interesting things though.


I had done a search for barstools and they came up. I wish that I remembered. Sorry.


I like the look of the bar and the room. The only thing that "I" might change, would be that little table. You'd be suprised that when you have a party how people belly up to the bar. Plus you could maybe put a dartboard there or something.


If you have any other questions, let me know.


----------



## paddy21

Does anyone have their kegs located far from the bar? How do you keep the beer lines cold?


I didn't have room to put a fridge behind the bar so I'll have it in the basement or garage. I'm wondering if anyone has a solution other than glycol cooling.


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paddy21* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have their kegs located far from the bar? How do you keep the beer lines cold?
> 
> 
> I didn't have room to put a fridge behind the bar so I'll have it in the basement or garage. I'm wondering if anyone has a solution other than glycol cooling.



Mine is right under the bar but I have seen distance runs on this site:
http://www.superprod.com/webapp/wcs/...gory_rn=232902 


I dont know if this is what you are looking for, but....


----------



## tank3467

Thanks for the info buck. I would love to put a nice big bar in a nice basement, unfortunately I dont have a nice basement. The room is pretty small so the bar is only going to be about 7 feet long. I thought about putting it on the other wall but I dont think the setup would work. Next to the door is a sliding glass door that leads to the deck. the wall opposite the little table actually has a closet with a washer and dryer in it. I was planning on moving the wash/dryer to the basement but wife is REALLY against it.


So the results are a pub table that will be about the same height as the bar, with the same stools. Sooner or later there will also be a flat screen on the wall.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cfmustang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got the frame of the half-wall done. This gives a little better idea of the design I am going with. A bit more modern than most on here, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be sheathing the front and back of the half-wall with 1/2" oak veneer plywood and veneering the angled edge with oak veneer... All nice and smooth...



This is very similar to how I built my bar (pic's are earlier in this post). Instead of kitchen cabinets I use bathroom vanity cabinets. Why? Like you, I had some space issues and vanity cabinets are 18" vs. the 24" for kitchen. On the half wall, I turned the studs sideways. Again, just to keep everything as compact as possible.


I put a skin on mine of cheap photo finish paneling. It looks fine. Sort of a leather look. Had I to do over again, I might go with real wood bead board or something.


Nice looking...good job.


----------



## cfmustang

Thanks! Your bar was the inspiration for mine and the model I have been following.


I would have went with vanity cabinets if I could find them, but alas, no luck. At least, not the less expensive builder grade. Also, I went with the the 2x4 studs in the more traditional orientation for the half wall because the bar is straight across.


My thinking was that a L-shaped bar would have provided more support for the upper counter top than my design, but I don't have the room for an L-shaped design. Therefore, I went with the thicker half wall as cheap insurance.


With any luck, I'll be able to get the half wall sheathed and the MDF for the counter tops cut and ready to be covered with zinc. I still have to order the zinc and the foot rail, so I will be stalled again for a little while but it should be mostly done after this weekend.


----------



## Sdallnct

I got say having a bar is awesome! It is so versatile. I have had kids over (friends of my kids) and served popcorn, candy, pizza and cokes. I have had my boss and co-workers over and got out the wine, Crown, and "the good" pretzels. My wife has had her co-workers over and I served them Sangria, chips and homemade salsa. I have had my best friend over and we did car bombs till 3:00am. And I have found myself in there are weekend mornings having coffee, reading the paper while watching the news on tv.


Originally thought the bar would be a good way to make use of the room. But like our media room, it has turned into an almost every day usage room. It duty as everything form overflow for the dinning room, to watching sports to sipping wine.....


Anyone "on the fence" about putting one in, should just do it. How is everyone else enjoying theirs???


----------



## scaesare

We've really enjoyed ours as well... we went with media/game/bar space, and it's a natural congregation point in the basement... especially with friends over.


----------



## Neuner

I'll tell you as soon as I can get it done.... Man it's taking forever, but mostly that's because we have 2 under the age of 2 with a third on the way










We did have family over for a birthday party and although I held my tongue when they used the bar without a protective poly finish on it, I was happy to see everyone naturally congregate around it.


This weekend I'm hoping to finally coat the bar top before anything happens to it!


----------



## buckrogers71

ours is the meeting place whenever we have ANY type of get together. It almost makes me wonder why I dont have a nice 32" LCD or Plasma on the wall










Oh yeah, now I know, I'd never leave the basement


----------



## aegisx

Like a previous message, I am thinking of putting a bar in, but plumbing is not an option. The area is already finished and the plumbing is on the other side of the room.


Do you guys have any dry bars? What are your thoughts? I would at least have a fridge under the bar.


----------



## buckrogers71

I wouldnt say that mine is "dry"







I have a beer meister under my bar, a wine fridge and a fridge.


No sink though. Would I want a sink? I guess if it wasnt a problem to do, but in all honesty, it doesnt bother me.


I'll have to post some pics of the back


----------



## Sdallnct

I added a sink to my bar area as I had plumbing right there. But in all honesty, it is not a huge deal and while handy, I could have lived without. I mainly do beer and wine. I have a ton of glasses, so not like a need to do a quick hand wash or anything.


It has come in handy when me and a couple of buddy's get a little out of hand and do car bombs, or shots, mixed drinks as then it is nice to rinse out quickly or dump some ice.


But again, could have lived without.


----------



## msulinski

Personally, I couldn't have a bar without a sink, but I am always making mixed drinks. I don't know how well I could do that without a sink to rinse the mixing equipment. Really, it all comes down to what you serve most often. If you do beer and wine, you may never even use the sink.


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msulinski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally, I couldn't have a bar without a sink, but I am always making mixed drinks. I don't know how well I could do that without a sink to rinse the mixing equipment. Really, it all comes down to what you serve most often. If you do beer and wine, you may never even use the sink.



That I couldnt agree w/ more. I do beer, wine, and standard 1 drink mixes (vodka and tonic, rum and coke etc.) Every now and again, i will do some martini's for the wife, but she usually drinks the same one and its only one mixer.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aegisx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like a previous message, I am thinking of putting a bar in, but plumbing is not an option. The area is already finished and the plumbing is on the other side of the room.
> 
> 
> Do you guys have any dry bars? What are your thoughts? I would at least have a fridge under the bar.



Mine's dry. I could've put a sink in as plumbing is right above the bar. I don't miss a sink. For large gatherings, it's mostly beer and wine (lots o'wine), and simple one mixer drinks. Martinis and the like seem to be ordered only during smaller gatherings or for just me and my wife (and I have multiple shakers). Blended drinks are only consumed during the summer and outside, so they're made in the kitchen or on the patio anyway.


Cleanup is usually done the next day, so glassware (I have lots) is taken to the kitchen for the dishwasher.


----------



## udeyhawk

Bud-

Are the Corbels the only thing that you have supporting the overhang of the counter? I am working on a straight 8' bar and have it all done. I am a little uneasy about just installing corbels and using adhesive to mount the countertop to the bar wall and corbels. I have searched the web and can't find any clear recommendations on how to do this.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *udeyhawk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud-
> 
> Are the Corbels the only thing that you have supporting the overhang of the counter? I am working on a straight 8' bar and have it all done. I am a little uneasy about just installing corbels and using adhesive to mount the countertop to the bar wall and corbels. I have searched the web and can't find any clear recommendations on how to do this.



udey,


Yes. The silicon basically keeps the granite in place. It's not going nowhere, believe me. The corbels are there for support of the overhang (obviously) and that should be sufficient. I added extra corbels, more than what was done upstairs in our kitchen (as granite), basically for aesthetics. The corbels are held on by three inch deck screws through the back, they're not going anywhere either.


Bud


----------



## zvincez

Hi Everyone,


I am new to this. I found this forum browsing the web. We are building a bar and I found chinadog´s design and I really liked it. I would like to know if possible the basic dimensions of the design, I mean height and width of the bottom and top shelves. I think these dimensions are perfect and I would like to build mine like this one. I will have to adjust the dimensions to the european standard but it will help as a "base".

I am thinking on using standard kitchen cupboards and then adding the upper section using wood.


Your help will be appreciated.


Regards.


Vince.


----------



## chinadog

Vince, I'm happy to provide that, but not sure what you mean by "height and width of the bottom and top shelves". I believe I posted the actual design for the dimensions (at least the first design). The heights are standard cabinet heights. Let me know. I'll be gone for part of this week, but will respond as soon as I can.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreySkies* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine's dry. I could've put a sink in as plumbing is right above the bar. I don't miss a sink. For large gatherings, it's mostly beer and wine (lots o'wine), and simple one mixer drinks. Martinis and the like seem to be ordered only during smaller gatherings or for just me and my wife (and I have multiple shakers). Blended drinks are only consumed during the summer and outside, so they're made in the kitchen or on the patio anyway.
> 
> 
> Cleanup is usually done the next day, so glassware (I have lots) is taken to the kitchen for the dishwasher.



I think this is a great point. I find myself "controlling" the drinks based on the event. Bunch of buddies over, lots of Beer. Couple over, beer/wine. Co-workers, maybe some mixed stuff.


But having the bar makes it each to control.


----------



## fishsticks10120

Im building a bar in my game room and not sure how to go about installing the beer tap. I dont have the room for a full sized frige. How far are you able to run the uninsulated beer line for the beer tap tower?


----------



## msulinski

You really cannot go too far with the uninsulated line (maybe a few feet)? I am not sure how expensive they are, but water-cooled and glycol-cooled systems would do what you want.


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fishsticks10120* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im building a bar in my game room and not sure how to go about installing the beer tap. I dont have the room for a full sized frige. How far are you able to run the uninsulated beer line for the beer tap tower?



I went about a foot with my run. I used some HVAC insulation for the lines


----------



## HeyNow^

I still get foam with my tower mounted on top of my keg. Cold beer over lower temp lines equals foam. Pour for a couple of seconds, dump in sink, rinse glass and pour a perfect beer.


----------



## chiliman

I built a room behind my bar to put a full size frig, some cabinets, and a kegerator....it's also to lock up the alcohol from the kids and their friends when they get to that age. (can be seen in my gallery) My run is about 4-5 feet. It comes out the top of the kegerator, through a hole in the wall, up the cabinet at the bar and into the tavern head which is mounted on the bar. On short runs like this in a home bar system you should only have your CO2 pressure at a level enough to keep the beer fresh and push it along the lines. I'm in the restaurant business, I have my commercial lines set at 33 pounds. My home keg is at 10-12 pounds max. The lower the pressure, the less foam you will get. You'll always get some but as HeyNow says, just pour a half a glass, dump and rinse. If you have to dump more than that, turn down your pressure and let it settle.


A glycol system will run in the thousands. For a restaurant I have in the plans a 25 tower system running 100feet is just short of $20K. I would bet a home system would be at least $4-5k since the major expense is the glycol box/compressor system.


----------



## Rastalin

Hey guys:


a lot of good info here. I am building out my basement into an Irish\\Engligh pub feel. I have been looking for plans and specs that fit that type of look but I havent had much luck. I saw barplans but it doesnt seem to have the type of bar im looking for. Any thoughts on plans or info on types of wood to use etc? Any recommended sites for the equipment to go along with the bar such as taps? I'm putting two taps in.


----------



## HeyNow^

Check out BritInVa's build/bar...Mark has done very nice work...


----------



## cfmustang

A quick question for any of you guys that used veneer plywood for your bars...


Can a dent in veneer plywood be steamed out like a dent in normal wood? Last night my wife opened the garage door during a storm and the strong winds knocked over my bar's half-wall which is in the garage while I am finishing it. Fortunately, the most recent coat of finish was put on a few days ago so the finish is ok, but it landed on a plug and dented the finished side.


The way the bar is set up, this dent will most likely not be visible due to where it is, but I am still wondering if I can steam out the dent... Darn the perfectionist in me...


Also, I should finally have an update on my bar in the next few days. A stupid mistake made me have to redo the half-wall when it was more than half finished along with other real life stuff getting in the way. Should I continue to post here or start my own thread?


----------



## johnny15

I looking to build a bar in my recently finished rec/theater area and I can't decide on what bar I want to build (late summer or fall build). I have a few ideas, but they are very rough and would like some input if anyone has any. Also, if anyone would be interested in helping me out with a rendering, that would be much appreciated as well......










Anyway, he's what I got......


Future bar area.......
 



Bar idea 1.........
 



Bar idea 2......
 



No matter what bar style i pick (can even be different from the two ideas i currently have) I do know that I want to put a kegerator in the area (as shown....sort of). Also, if you need a better idea of what my space looks like, you can check out my thread (below).


Thanks for the help.


John


----------



## BritInVA

Here are a few pics of my bar at rear of the Theatre.....the bar chairs are tempoary.





























Cheers,

Mark


----------



## scaesare

Turned out great Mark!


----------



## brrman

This has to be one of the best bar threads I have ever come across! Some awesome bars and ideas here!


----------



## tank3467

I really like the cabinet over the bar. Looks great.


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnny15* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No matter what bar style i pick (can even be different from the two ideas i currently have)



I went with a 45-45-45 bar and love the look. The shape helps with the flow around the bar for when I have a lot of people over. There aren't obtrusive corners to run into or have to get around. The 45 degree corners do make it a little trickier for cutting some the trim pieces. I'm almost done, still have to finish the trim on the soffit and poly the whole thing.


Here are pics with the epoxy top coat complete:


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cfmustang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quick question for any of you guys that used veneer plywood for your bars...
> 
> 
> Can a dent in veneer plywood be steamed out like a dent in normal wood? Last night my wife opened the garage door during a storm and the strong winds knocked over my bar's half-wall which is in the garage while I am finishing it. Fortunately, the most recent coat of finish was put on a few days ago so the finish is ok, but it landed on a plug and dented the finished side.
> 
> 
> The way the bar is set up, this dent will most likely not be visible due to where it is, but I am still wondering if I can steam out the dent... Darn the perfectionist in me...
> 
> 
> Also, I should finally have an update on my bar in the next few days. A stupid mistake made me have to redo the half-wall when it was more than half finished along with other real life stuff getting in the way. Should I continue to post here or start my own thread?



I dont know. If you have a scrap, maybe you could try it on that? Am I correct in that assuming that part is stained? If so, I might be worried about that.


Good Luck! At any rate, I would love to see the pics.


----------



## cfmustang

Yes, it is already stained and the stain is a stain/poly blend (long story). I am more worried about the steam delaminating the veneer, so I have decided to let it go. It really isn't that noticeable and will be virtually impossible to see when the counter top is on.


I am hoping to start laminating the zinc to the MDF for the counter tops today, but the weather does not appear to be cooperating today. I plan on taking lots of pictures of that process, so expect some sort of update this weekend.


----------



## cfmustang

The weather was a bit better today so I got some work done on the counter tops. Not as much as I would have liked, but a good start.


I started with the MDF subsurface. I used two 3/4" pieces to get the 1 1/2" buildup to match standard counter thickness. Nice stuff, but heavy! If I ever do this again, I will go with a different type of particle board to save weight and my back.











Here is the sheet zinc. I got two rolls plus some special flux and zinc solder.











I was originally going to use a break to bend the metal, but decided I could never get the bends to exactly match with the somewhat less than perfect measurements of my counter tops. Instead I decided to do it like I have seen Norm do his own laminate counters. I would cut a piece with dimensions slightly larger than the piece needed. Cement it to the board and then used a router with a carbide laminate trimmer bit to make the piece match side it was glued to.


Here is a piece cut for one of the long edges.











Next, I glued it on using contact cement.











Lastly, I would run the router around the edges. I then did the same steps over for the other long end, one of the short ends and the top.


Here is what it looked like after all the sides were attached before buffing.











Finally, here is what it looks like with the excess glue cleaned up and a quick buffing to dull the surface.











All in all, I am pretty impressed with how it is coming out. I still have to solder the joints and do a better job buffing the surface, but I ran out of time tonight. i get more pictures when I am done.


----------



## HeyNow^

Nice work. I hope you didn't scratch that Pony...


----------



## rgroves

Nice looking countertop. Awesome looking pony. (I've got a '65 pony myself).


----------



## cfmustang

When I went out this morning to go to work, I got a good look at the counter top in the daylight and I am really pleased at how it came out so far. Once I get the seams soldered and finish buffing it, it will really make it looked finished.


I have to admit, I was worried about the counters. I have never tried anything like this and there isn't much info out there so I was making up a lot of it as I went along.


As for the Mustang, that is my other never-ending project. Mechanically, it is getting close to being done (although the transmission has started leaking over the winter...sigh). Now I just have to finish the body work, paint it and replace most of the trim.


There is never enough time or money especially with my new project: a Nursery...


----------



## Sdallnct

Anyone have a good suggestion for a ceiling fan for the bar? I think I'm going to replace mine and thinking something maybe rustic? Or a little different?


----------



## cfmustang

Edit: Sorry, I just went back and I was confusing your bar with someone else's... Not sure about what kind of fan to use in this case... I really like your bar but am having trouble putting my finger on what style would go with it.


_Isn't your bar more on the modern side? (blacks and reds, marble, etc.)

This is a bit pricey but might look cool. If not that exactly, something in that style.


B.T.W. - I am doing final assembly on the bar this evening and should have pics up either tonight or tomorrow._


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

Post #1

I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #1.


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

Post #2

I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #2.


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

Post #3

I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #3.


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

Post #4

I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #4.


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

Post #5

I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #5.


----------



## chinadog

MrsRed... there is a test area you can get your 5 posts ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=46


----------



## MrsRedMosquito

I've really enjoyed looking at everyone's photos of their bars and you all have some great ideas! Maybe you have some pointers. This is the upstairs room in our new house.


This is the front of the bar and it's covered in beadboard/wainscotting (sp) and the opening behind the bar looks downstairs:












This photo is looking downstairs frm behind the bar:











This photo - to the left is where you enter from downstairs (that's a closet next to the bar):











This is the wall where you come up the stairs, then a half bath straight ahead and closets on the left:











This photo is standing at the bar looking at the rest of the room. A pool table is going on the far end of the room and a seating area w/ tv will be in the area right in front of the bar:











These are two photos that were taken before the beadboard was put on and before the cabinets were installed underneath... gives you a better idea of the area(s) that need covered/countertopped:





















The bar is huge and we're out of money (of course)... Any ideas of what to put on the countertop and bar top? Also should we paint the bar or stain it? The walls are a really dark brown (Deer Trail), the carpet in the room will be a straw color. Planning on tiling the floor on both sides of the bar. And this IS the "man room" - not my room!


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks,

Lisa Thomas
[email protected]


----------



## Sdallnct

If you look back at my bar photos you will see I used granite tiles from Home Depot. Very reasonably priced. I was planning to intall myself, but my wife called our tile guy and had it done while I was working out of town. My small bar was not that expensive. But if you are willing to put in the effort, the granite tiles are very nice looking at a fraction of the cost of slabs. You do need to seal it well.


For the outside "wrap" you could go with bead board waynscoat and stain it yourself. Or do what I did and go real cheap with paneling sheets. It looks nice, easy to replace.


----------



## cjrivera




----------



## cfmustang

I finally got the bar assembled last weekend. There are still some odds and ends to take care of like pulls and finding some good barstools, but I am quite happy with the final product. I got the look I was going for and the zinc counter tops really make it stand out.


What do you think?






















Next winter I'll add a back bar for bottle display and storage.


----------



## buckrogers71

very nice! I like it a lot. Looks good in that space also.


----------



## chinadog

cjrivera,


Huge bar and very nice! I'm sure you put it to good use!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cfmustang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got the look I was going for and the zinc counter tops really make it stand out.



Pretty sweet! Where do you get such stuff? I'm still tossing the idea of something different for a back splash, did you buy the stuff local or online?


Bud


----------



## cfmustang

I couldn't find any local suppliers here, so I got it online from a company called RotoMetals, Inc. Maybe you will get lucky and find someone local by you.


The price was not too bad and based on the thickness and amount you purchase they usually can ship it rolled via UPS (although the stuff is heavy, so the shipping charges can be a bit pricey). They come in sheets 39" x 96" at different thicknesses. I ended up using two sheets of .020" thick and still have enough left over for a back bar counter this winter.


The finish it is shipped with is a rolled finish and is somewhat shiny. I wanted a matte finish, so I had to play around a bit. I ended up using a green Scotchbrite pad in figure-eights first and then going to a medium grit sanding sponge in the same pattern. However, I found that once you scratch the shiny surface, you need to protect it again otherwise water or finger-prints will start tarnishing the metal white really quick. They recommended beeswax or butcher's wax. I tried just some Johnson's paste wax since I had it laying around and it seems to work. I also gave up soldering the edges. I was having too difficult a time getting it soldered evenly and found that if I took my time getting it cut, sanding out any marks and getting really good adhesion with the contact cement the seams are virtually invisible unless you are staring at them 6 inches away. Depending on how big your back-splash is, you could probably get buy without any seems anyway.


If anyone has any questions, I can take a little more time explaining how I did it in more detail.


----------



## HeyNow^

Outstanding craftsmanship! I really like the look....You should be very proud.


----------



## Chum

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?



Whatever you are comfortable with. Mine is 32 inches. When I'm mixing for a group, I don't walk myself to death. All I have to do is turn around. If you are going to have a couple of people behind the bar, well, plan accordingly.


Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area. If it's too large or small now is the time to make the change! No regrets. I had my tape down for two weeks before I began. I had a pretty tight area to deal with. Bud, (Chinadog) and Nuener had a lot more room than me. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?



Mine's 30.5 inches between the bar and barback. I second the tape on the floor suggestion.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area.




Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,


----------



## psubill78

What do you recommend for your bar top?


Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psubill78* /forum/post/11573180
> 
> 
> What do you recommend for your bar top?
> 
> 
> Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$



I like granite and corian, but personally, I think it makes a bar look more like a kitchen than a bar. I did a 2" sandwich of plywood with cabinet-grade maple veneer on top. It was stained with Miniwax Red Sedona 222 and finished with four good coats of an oil-based poly for floor use.


----------



## scaesare




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psubill78* /forum/post/11573180
> 
> 
> What do you recommend for your bar top?
> 
> 
> Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$



You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...


----------



## psubill78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scaesare* /forum/post/11578816
> 
> 
> You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...



Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...


My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...


----------



## cjrivera

How big is your bar top?


Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).


Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.


----------



## psubill78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjrivera* /forum/post/11579140
> 
> 
> How big is your bar top?
> 
> 
> Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).
> 
> 
> Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.



Its not huge, I may look into that, there are a few places around that may be able to sell remnant. Thanks


Didn't see Zodiaq, will look into! thx.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

If I recall correctly, "Zodiac" is the Dupont product that is superior to their "Corian" solid surface product in that you can put hot items (pots and pans) on its surface.


----------



## cjrivera

right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.


It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.


We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psubill78* /forum/post/11578867
> 
> 
> Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...
> 
> 
> My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...



I have slate tiles for my undercounter, and I'd have the same concerns of tipping glasses if it were my bartop-- it looks great, but it's not an even surface.


With a wetsaw, granite tiles should be pretty easy to cut.


----------



## scaesare




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psubill78* /forum/post/11578867
> 
> 
> Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...
> 
> 
> My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...



Just used a tile saw with diamond blade. Sets just like regular tile.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjrivera* /forum/post/11585803
> 
> 
> right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.
> 
> 
> It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.
> 
> 
> We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)



I think the term they use is "engineered stone". I have Silstone in the kitchen and love it. Silstone is just another brand of the engineered stone. Highly recommended. It is like 98% quartz (a natural stone) with 2% resine. No sealing required, more consistent color.


I put granite tiles in my bar and wish I didn't. I love the looks, but even tho I sealed it several times I already have a water ring in a couple of spots. Luckily, so far, only on the bartenders work area, but still. And I'm careful to use coasters, napkins, etc. I really don't know how people put granite in the kitchen with all the water around.


----------



## Bonno

Guys,


Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.


Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.










Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.


It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.


So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.


----------



## mbott1701




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/10985420
> 
> 
> Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,




I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.



I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season.









http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../basement1.jpg


----------



## cjrivera




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbott1701* /forum/post/11657186
> 
> 
> I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg
> 
> http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../basement1.jpg



Sorry, man... but I'm just not feeling that bar of yours.

Doesn't look good at all.





















































(Now.... take away all that Eagles stuff and you got one heck of a bar!









Go Cowboys!)


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bonno* /forum/post/11655673
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.
> 
> 
> Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.
> 
> 
> It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.
> 
> 
> So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.



Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.


As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.


Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/11662817
> 
> 
> Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.
> 
> 
> As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.



Its weird you have spots. Especially if its sealed. We have granite in the kitchen, bar and the master bar. No water spots. Granted its not solid black, but no matter.


Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!


Bud


----------



## Fred334

There great looking bars in this thread. I wish I could get my underway. The wife has other plans...


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11662900
> 
> 
> Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!
> 
> 
> Bud



Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreySkies* /forum/post/11668963
> 
> 
> Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.



Thanks man! For me, basement wise, it was the icing on the cake. My wife thought I was whacked when I told her thats what I wanted to do. I'm like "what would you prefer, formica?".







No looking back now.


Bud


----------



## Bonno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/11662817
> 
> 
> Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.
> 
> 
> As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.



I agree. I had problems with the water marks as well with the test pieces I looked at. Also tried slate as well, looked great, nice and flat, but same problem. Chinese Granite available here in slabs of 2.2m x 0.6m, which is not so great if I need to move it in a couple of years, (breakage?, rented property, on a 3yr work contract, etc,etc) unfortunately granite tiles not so readily available....So thinking about pulling a log of teak off the beach (yes, the occasional one gets free and washes up on the shore, complete with label) getting it dried, cut, finished and putting that on top instead.


----------



## Raymond23

Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...


----------



## R_Willis

Ok, looking for ideas.


Want to put in a bar area in my rec room. Options are pretty open. Looking for layout help mainly for the island bar. Should I go with a L-Shaped island and run one side all the way over to the wall on the left in the pictures?


Unfortunately I don't have water/sewer down near there, and everything is finished, so there will be no sink or ice maker, etc.


The first picture is what I'm considering for the back area. Not that exact piece, as it's a over $6k piece from LOWES, but something similiar. Probably a bit smaller. I'm going to be using a base under the counter fridge/beverage center back there too. That little space is 27" deep x 60 5/8" wide x 81 1/2 high.


That last picture is taken directly from the centerline of the door that goes into my theater and would also be the centerline of the screen in the theater. So, the bar will basically end up across from the theater, which is nice....


----------



## charlie3133




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Raymond23* /forum/post/11711056
> 
> 
> Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...





Thats cheating LOL


looks awesome by the way.


FAR out of my budget


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *charlie3133* /forum/post/11747959
> 
> 
> Thats cheating LOL
> 
> 
> looks awesome by the way.
> 
> 
> FAR out of my budget



Yea...budget is why I built my own. I set a budget of $1,000 including sink and bar fidg. I came in right at $1,300 but two things pretty much set me over...but it was ok. First, I had to go out of town to work just as I was getting ready to tile the bar. My wife "surprised me" by having our tile guy do it for $200 which I really didn't mind. He did in about 4-6 hours total what would have taken me 4-6 DAYS. And Second, I ended up spendign about $90.00 on a hammer drill rather then rent. While I figured it would be nice to have, I have yet to use it since. Ah well, it is a good back up to my cordless.


----------



## tank3467

This is a little late but thought that I would show some pics of my finished bar. Its all wood (thats the look I wanted). Cedar on panels on the front. I made my own bar rail because I didnt want to pay $15 a foot to buy it, and it turned out really well (i think). I also made my bar top removable, because I built my bar in my garage and then brought it into my house (bar top would have been to wide to get in connected). Even though its just under eight feet long it was HEAVY. I also sealed the top with envirotex. Its an epoxy that is self leveling, waterproof, and heat resistant. It hardens to a consistency much like glass. I often dont use coasters and whatever is spilled can be wiped right up. Its a small room so its a small bar. I wish I had some of the room that some of the other bars on here are in.


Hope you like it.


----------



## Neuner

Very nice. Great job on making the bar rail yourself. What coating did you use for the bar top?


----------



## johnny15

Nice bar!! It really turned out well!!


How did you go about making your own rail??


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/12277111
> 
> 
> Very nice. Great job on making the bar rail yourself. What coating did you use for the bar top?



Looks like he used Envirotex according to his post above.


Nice work! How did you make that bar rail?


----------



## tank3467

The top is sealed with envirotex lite is what its called (you can google it). It comes with two compounds in separate containers, which when mixed together will harden and seal. If you use it make sure there are no small cracks because until it hardens it will leak through. I had a little problem because my bar top is made from redwood strips. Basically I bought redwood 2x4's and ripped them into half inch strips and then glued and stapled them to the top. I didnt think it would run but, there were a couple of knotholes that it slowly ran out of. I just kept adding envirotex to holes until it hardened enough to stop leaking.


Anyway, the bar rail. Its hard to explain, but I will try to make it simple yet understandable. Its basically whats called a cove cut (I was told this after I did it). All you need is a table saw, some clamps, and 2x4 to use as guides, and your wood (I used a 12 foot 2x6 pine board, straight and not twisted). clamp the 2x4's on the table saw at a 43 degree angle to the blade. Lower the blade to make about 1/8 inch cut and slide board across blade. This should make a shallow groove all the way down the middle of the board. Raise blade slightly, and slide board across blade. Repeat until you reach desired depth. Confused?


I would suggest using a scrap piece first to make sure it comes out the way you like it. I off centered mine slightly so the top of the rail was a little thicker than the bottom. I then use a router to round the edges and sanded down the grooves from the cove cut. A lot of the sanding was done by hand but it wasnt too tough.


Heres a couple more pictures, one is of a cove cut diagram (hope it makes more sense than my explanation), the second is my practice piece, third putting on redwood strips.


----------



## R_Willis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/8248747
> 
> 
> So here is what the bar looks like dry fit with the new framing for the panels. So far, so good. Next Saturday I go to the place that can match the stain for me.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, can you send a sample to that place and have them match stain and send it out?


Looks like they did a pretty darn good job matching for you!


----------



## chinadog

It did come out great. Not sure if you can send them a sample, but there are several places scattered across the country. No harm in calling them.


Here's the link to their site, but not seeing any in Ohio....

http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/distributors.shtml 


Homepage: http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/nof-index.shtml 


Bud


----------



## malbols

Hi guys , been watching and learning from this thread for close to a year - LOL

Neuner , if you're still out there , any finish pics (sorry guys , but his bar is my favourite)

Also , what bartop overhang works best , including the elbow rail . Thanks all .


----------



## Neuner

Thanks! Finish pics can be viewed at the end of my construction pics link in my signature. Not sure what your asking about the overhang. Do you mean the bar rail?


----------



## malbols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/12884025
> 
> 
> Thanks! Finish pics can be viewed at the end of my construction pics link in my signature. Not sure what your asking about the overhang. Do you mean the bar rail?



I mean the distance from the bar front to the furthest point out on your bar top , including the rail . Does this distance work well or in retrospect would you have liked more overhang . Thanks


P.S. - your finished product is beautiful . I might go with your basic design and used some raised panels instead of glass blocks .still thinkin -LOL


----------



## Tony_M

12 inches minimum overhang to be seated comfortably. If it is a standing room only bar you can get away with a smaller overhang.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/12882860
> 
> 
> Hi guys , been watching and learning from this thread for close to a year - LOL
> 
> Neuner , if you're still out there , any finish pics (sorry guys , but his bar is my favourite)
> 
> Also , what bartop overhang works best , including the elbow rail . Thanks all .


----------



## Neuner

I'll have to measure or lookup some of my other posts but I think it's a little over 12 inches. It is perfect. It looks right and even my brother who is 6'-4" doesn't bang his knees.


----------



## malbols

Thanks for the replies guys . One more question though . What is a good width for a bar top , including the elbow rail . thanks


----------



## Sdallnct

I don't at all disagree with the measurement posted above. But if you can't do those, don't let that deter you. I had a long enough, but rather narrow room to put my bar in so I cut inches everywhere I could.


For the bartenders work area I used bathroom vanity cabinets (18" deep) as opposed to regular kitchen cabinets at 24" deep. Also my overhang is only about 8". Yes, that means you cannot perfect sit under it like at a regular table, but it is close and still comfortable. Finally, my bar top is only 12". Yes a few more inches would have been nice, but it is easily big enough for a plate of food when use the bar for overflow for dinners and entertaining. And I am very, very pleased on how the bar "fits in the room". It looks very proportional. You can look at the pics in this thread and see that I use blue painters tape to get a feel for dimensions. This worked well and I changed the design several times using that tape.


----------



## Tony_M

Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at http://tony.homedns.org/photos/Home/...ing/index.html 


Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.


I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/12903237
> 
> 
> I don't at all disagree with the measurement posted above. But if you can't do those, don't let that deter you. I had a long enough, but rather narrow room to put my bar in so I cut inches everywhere I could.
> 
> 
> For the bartenders work area I used bathroom vanity cabinets (12" deep) as opposed to regular kitchen cabinets at 18" deep. Also my overhang is only about 8". Yes, that means you cannot perfect sit under it like at a regular table, but it is close and still comfortable. Finally, my bar top is only 12". Yes a few more inches would have been nice, but it is easily big enough for a plate of food when use the bar for overflow for dinners and entertaining. And I am very, very pleased on how the bar "fits in the room". It looks very proportional. You can look at the pics in this thread and see that I use blue painters tape to get a feel for dimensions. This worked well and I changed the design several times using that tape.



I agree that you shouldn't feel enslaved by these dimensions posted above. I have one side of my bar which I always intended to be "standing room only" where the overhang is less than optimal too. And, if you look at my pics you won't be able to notice the difference. I do have long sections for seating though.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/12904580
> 
> 
> I agree that you shouldn't feel enslaved by these dimensions posted above. I have one side of my bar which I always intended to be "standing room only" where the overhang is less than optimal too. And, if you look at my pics you won't be able to notice the difference. I do have long sections for seating though.



100% agree! And I corrected the dimensions in my post.


That was perhaps some of the most fun I had, changing and trying find a better way to fit things in and room while also working well and of course looking good.


There are optimal dimensions, but there is no "bar police". The most important thing is building something you can enjoy and share with others.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tony_M* /forum/post/12904258
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at
> 
> Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.
> 
> 
> I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar.



Nice bar...very nice.


----------



## HeyNow^

_Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at http://tony.homedns.org/photos/Home/...ing/index.html 


Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.


I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar._




Nice job Tony! I hope you, your family and friends enjoy it for many years to come!


----------



## Sdallnct

A while back I posted I was looking for glass shelving to put in a window opening to hold pint glasses. I finally did something about it.


To make a long story short, I called several glass places and didn't like the cost or the time to cut the glass. So I decided to go with wood and make my own. I had stain left over from the bar and a couple pieces of trim left over so I went that direction. I originally was only going to do one window, but happy with the results so going to do the 2nd wondow for sure and maybe even the smaller third window.


I basically built a wall frame with horizontal support as the shelving, here is are pics.


Overview, pre-build,











test fit, pre-stain and trim..











I then removed the entire unit and stained it. I also used some left over trim to re-trim the window itself and cover the vertical support for the shelving,











Then I couldn't decide it to add trim to the shelving or not. But, I wanted a lip to the shelving so I added trim for decoration and lip,











Completed,











Overview (sorry about the cluttered bar)


----------



## malbols

that's sweet


----------



## HeyNow^

Perfect! Nice work.


----------



## Sdallnct

Thanks, I'm very happy with them. The pic's don't do them justice. I wanted glass as I thought wood would cut out to much light, but it really doesn't. And only took a couple hours to do (of course lots of time waiting for the two coast of stain and clear coat to dry).


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Beautiful work, Sdall. That really jazzs up the place immensely.


----------



## malbols

A little off subject , but where do you find such an assortment of pint glasses ?


----------



## Sdallnct

Well there are places on line and ebay...but every one of mine i have from my travels. I travel a lot for work and fun. Some people collect shot glasses, some people collect postcards, some people collect thimbles, I collect pint glasses.


Typically when I travel (and like I say, I do a lot) it is for anywhere between several days to a month or more. So I have time to find a place to catch a beer which is where I usually find them. But I try to pick one up any place that I enjoy, had fun, met good people (even like Disney, Universal and I have a couple from Vegas).


As an example, in the October I was working in Colorado Springs and realized I hadn't found a pint glass yet. Yea, lots of places had them, but it was my drive up Pikes Peak when it started snowing that I found one I wanted. At the gift shop where I stopped, they had them!! Since it was snowing I sat and talked to the person there for nearly an hour learning about Pikes Peak, what they do besides work at a gift shop, etc, etc...Those are best as there is a story or memory behind them! Yea, at first a Pikes Peak pint glass sounds cheesy or touristy, but with story, the cool person I met and that we sat and watched the snow half way up a huge mountain, makes it fun to have.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/12997785
> 
> 
> That really jazzs up the place immensely.



You are exactly right! I especially surprised how much a difference the window trim makes!


Despite all the "stuff" have hanging everywhere, you are right, it was getting a little "mono-color" in there. I know I'm going to build the same shelving for the other window next to that one. And I might do it for the smaller window as well. But I'm also considering putting that window trim with that stain on just about all the openings in the room. It seems to give it a little "pop" and depth.


That trim isn't expensive and of course stain is cheap. Seems like a cheap, nice and relatively easy upgrade. I drilled pilot holes with a very small drill bit and didn't crack even one board. The trim on the shelving itself I just used glue (thats why you see the blue painters tape holding it in place while it sets).


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

I should've added that I thought your bar looked great before, but it certainly has more "pop" now. I'm sure you get lots of compliments...


And, I know what you mean about the collecting thing...I do that with drink "coozies" (what we call them around here - but they're basically the thing that keeps a drink can cold)...I even have one from Pikes Peak too.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/12999150
> 
> 
> I should've added that I thought your bar looked great before, but it certainly has more "pop" now. I'm sure you get lots of compliments...
> 
> 
> And, I know what you mean about the collecting thing...I do that with drink "coozies" (what we call them around here - but they're basically the thing that keeps a drink can cold)...I even have one from Pikes Peak too.



Oh no worries...I didn't mean to make is sound like you were insulting my bar or anything. I had noticed I was keeping all the color the same. And the dark stain trim added some pop and I really like it.


----------



## malbols

The frame for my bar is complete (about 10 ft. long)however , it is out of level by approx. 1/8" of an inch .I am concernrd about pooling of the Poly ,once i pour onto finished bartop. Is there anything i can do to minimize ? Do you know of a levelling compound i can use on the top of the bar frame before i install the top ? Thanks again for your help .


----------



## chinadog

Not sure, but can you do it in two steps? First a smaller amount on the top to level it - it would pool to the lower area. The second pour would be to complete the top.


Bud


----------



## dlclark

 http://triplejinlay.com/ 


This link has a gallery of photos from a custom builder in central, IL. He builds custom bars, poker tables, etc. Notice that he doesn't use stain, the color variance comes from use of different wood species. The bar he made for the Pub II in Normal, IL is really something. Probably not a DIY project but maybe inspiration for someone.


----------



## cjrivera




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlclark* /forum/post/13338854
> 
> http://triplejinlay.com/
> 
> 
> This link has a gallery of photos from a custom builder in central, IL. He builds custom bars, poker tables, etc. Notice that he doesn't use stain, the color variance comes from use of different wood species. The bar he made for the Pub II in Normal, IL is really something. Probably not a DIY project but maybe inspiration for someone.



Ahhh... the Pub II. Maybe I never noticed the bar there because I was too busy scarfing down all their famous cheese balls. Good times, good times.


----------



## calmman

I went to quite a few sites for ideas, and one I believe is called barplans.com.


----------



## str1der

I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.


----------



## Capy235

If your bar is not fastened to the floor you can use common wood wedges available at any home center to create a level before you pour. My bar is 10' on the front and a 6' return on one end and that is my plan when the time comes. Good luck and let us know how it come out.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13372181
> 
> 
> I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.



wow...there are a lot of folks on here that have finished their bars and chronicaled how they did it with cabinets....Irmo, Bud (chinadAWG)(Chinadog), many others. Plans, smans....get creative bro!....


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Yep, Randy's right, I used pre-built cabs on my bar, both for underneath and hanging back behind it.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/13379172
> 
> 
> Yep, Randy's right, I used pre-built cabs on my bar, both for underneath and hanging back behind it.




Do you have any pics? This thread is getting kind of big.


----------



## str1der

Does this bar belong to anyone on this board? It's almost exactly what I was looking to build. http://www.electronichouse.com/slide...egory/3192/566


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13379774
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics? This thread is getting kind of big.



Do a search on my userID for threads started...I don't start many threads so you won't have to look far. Good luck!


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13400327
> 
> 
> Does this bar belong to anyone on this board? It's almost exactly what I was looking to build. http://www.electronichouse.com/slide...egory/3192/566



That's Bud's (chinadog) bar! Bud, I didn't know you made Electronic House. Cool!


-Ryan


----------



## HeyNow^

Chinadog. Look under Blazing Ridge Cinema in the Theater build forum.


----------



## chinadog

Yes, it got added just today. The person actually wrote the article a while back and it just went out. I forgot it was coming with all the stuff going on in the ATL over the weekend.


Bud


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/13400471
> 
> 
> Do a search on my userID for threads started...I don't start many threads so you won't have to look far. Good luck!



None of your pics show up in the thread.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Okay, sorry about that. Not sure what's up with it then.


Can anybody else see the pics in the thread below?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879 


Imagestation migrated to Shutterfly awhile back, but the links were supposed to still be valid...


----------



## HeyNow^

Maybe He/she is being blocked from work...like me


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Which is exactly why I can't verify if the links are good either.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13401277
> 
> 
> Maybe He/she is being blocked from work...like me



Nope He isn't being blocked. The links don't work.


----------



## HeyNow^

Irmo,


No worky from homey either!


----------



## johnny15

Quick question for anyone:


Has anyone tried using the envirotex lite on a bar top that has been tiled?? I think it would be neat to use a slate for a bar top, but because of the very rough and uneven texture that usually accompanies slate, it wouldn't be the best surface for setting beer & wine glasses and other things.


Any ideas?


Thanks.


----------



## malbols

I plan on putting ribbed black rubber matt on my bartop , then cover with Envirotex . This stuff is supposed to cover just about anything . I'll let you know how it turns out , should been doing top in another week .


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13403836
> 
> 
> Irmo,
> 
> 
> No worky from homey either!



Dang it, guess I gotta update those links then. Thanks for checking...


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnny15* /forum/post/13404082
> 
> 
> Quick question for anyone:
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried using the envirotex lite on a bar top that has been tiled?? I think it would be neat to use a slate for a bar top, but because of the very rough and uneven texture that usually accompanies slate, it wouldn't be the best surface for setting beer & wine glasses and other things.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be interesting to see what the glossy envirotex does to the color of the tiles...I love how it pulls the color out of my hardwood flooring on my bar.


I would certainly suggest you test it on a seperate tile piece first though. Off your bar obviously. Slate tile is probably pretty porous, so you're likely to get all sorts of bubbles and other irregularities come up after you pour. You may need to seal it with poly first.


Good luck and show us how it turns out.


----------



## johnny15




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/13406985
> 
> 
> I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be interesting to see what the glossy envirotex does to the color of the tiles...I love how it pulls the color out of my hardwood flooring on my bar.
> 
> 
> I would certainly suggest you test it on a seperate tile piece first though. Off your bar obviously. Slate tile is probably pretty porous, so you're likely to get all sorts of bubbles and other irregularities come up after you pour. You may need to seal it with poly first.
> 
> 
> Good luck and show us how it turns out.



Yeah, I was planning on testing it before I do it, but I was just wondering if there was anyone that had possibly tried this. Thanks for the suggestion about sealing it with poly first. I didn't think of that, but it makes sense.


----------



## str1der

Hey Irmo did you get those pics?


What would you guys say is the minimum space needed on the outside of the bar and a wall? I have an area that's about 10' X 10' with a wall on 3 sides. I'd like to do a corner type bar but not sure how far out I could come and still be comfortable.


----------



## elmalloc

Irmo?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

I probably won't get to fixing those links until the weekend at the soonest, sorry...


As for space on the _outside_ of the bar, I dunno...I hadn't really thought of that before. My concern was the space _behind_ the bar, as I have lots of room outside the bar.


If your space is 10x10 though, I think it would probably look best to go symetrical and have the bar bisect that space right down the middle. But that really depends on whether you plan to have a back-counter behind your bar, which will eat up 2' feet of your back-bar space. You won't be able to split your 10x10 space if you do that.


One good suggestion I saw on here (I think it was Sdallnct that did it) was to use painter's tape and mark out your dimensions on the floor. You can get a good feel for the spatial relations that way, and if you want to go even farther, use cardboard boxes to fill in the spaces for the bar, cabinets, etc.


----------



## elmalloc

yes good advice


----------



## str1der

Yes I was planning on doing some mock ups but was just sitting here trying to draw it out on some graph paper. The area is basically like a 10' X 10' square with one corner missing so that's where you would enter


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Okay, well if there is only one corner missing, then you would still have 4 walls right? Just 2 of the walls (that meet to form the "missing" corner) are shorter?


Or, do you only have 2 walls total instead?


----------



## malbols

a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13428773
> 
> 
> a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .



Yep, there's lots of things you could do with that design,and it has a built in focal point (for artwork or a TV, etc).


----------



## elmalloc

great job irmo


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13428773
> 
> 
> a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .



Are you talking about a straight bar put diagonaly across a corner?


----------



## malbols

Actually , my brother is in the process of building such a bar .He built a diagonal cabinet (straight across the corner) for liquor and T.V. In

front of that ,his bar runs 90 degrees off the wall for several feet then angles back for several feet (kind of a boomerang shape overall) Looks great in the room .


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13443530
> 
> 
> Actually , my brother is in the process of building such a bar .He built a diagonal cabinet (straight across the corner) for liquor and T.V. In
> 
> front of that ,his bar runs 90 degrees off the wall for several feet then angles back for several feet (kind of a boomerang shape overall) Looks great in the room .




Like to see some pics.


----------



## elmalloc

ditto


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13372181
> 
> 
> I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.



Think my pics start on p. 2. I used unstained but pre-made vanity cabinets. I used vanity as they are about 6" narrower then kitchen cabinets. They come in varous lengths (18", 24", 36", 42", etc). I was just going to frame out something, but I decided I wanted some drawers and doors. So went to a cabinet wholesaler and found them very reasonably priced.


----------



## jerrodshook

I figured I would add some pics of my bar in the bar thread. More of them are in my HT build thread if you're interested.


Started out with buying some unfinished cabinets from Lowe's. I stained those and then laid things out. I plan to put in an undercounter wine refrigerator against the rear wall and then put a kegerator under the bar.










Here's the piece where the sink will go. The stain is Minwax English Chestnut.










Here's the framed wall for the bar. I glued it down to the floor.










Here it is with the plywood on the outside. This is 1/8" thick birch.










Here the top piece above the bar is installed. I used liquid nails all around and screwed it into the joists as well. My joists run left to right so there's no screws in the middle... just LN. I had to prop this part up until the LN dried... You can also see the bar top installed.










Put in the columns on top of the bar top.










Here's the hitchen side of things... The wine cooler is in and the sink is sitting on top of it.










Put mor 1/8" birch on the soffit around top, and ran electric for 3 recessed lights.


----------



## jerrodshook

Here's where it is today.... Everything is done except the tile work on the counter areas. My wife and I picked out some expensive tile and just don't have the $$$ to get it right now.










Here's the underside of the ceiling. I cut 2 slots for the posts and other than that, it's 1 piece. Was a bit of a challenge to get in there though!










Here's a finished shot of the kitchen side. I built a little wine bottle shelf just to the right of the wine cooler... Had a bit of extra space and I didn't want to waste it. Hard to see from this picture though.










Here's the bar side. I'm open to any good ideas on kegerators and finishing them off. That's 1 hing I haven't looked at too closely yet.










Here's a closeup of the underneath of the bar. Same stain as the rest of my basement and theater. Gloss PolyU on it. Turned out pretty nice. Got the wrought iron thingies on eBay for dirt cheap.










Here's a closeup of the bar top. I took a handrail and routed a 3/4" slot in it to fit over the bar top. It's 3/4" sold birch plywood. Glued it on and put some toe nails in for good measure.


----------



## str1der

Looks sweet. Are you planning on putting a kegerator in that open area between the cabinets?


----------



## jerrodshook

Thanks. Yep on the kegerator... it can't come soon enough!


----------



## HeyNow^

Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13457902
> 
> 
> Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!



Thanks! Appreciate it. Can't wait until I can get the tile and kegerator installed. Then I'll be really happy!


----------



## Sdallnct

Nice bar. Love the overhead stuff. Wish I could do something like that in my bar, but with the vaulted ceiling...don't think so.


----------



## malbols

this is all my brother sent me . he's about 1/2 way done


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/13464936
> 
> 
> Nice bar. Love the overhead stuff. Wish I could do something like that in my bar, but with the vaulted ceiling...don't think so.



Thanks. If you have a vaulted ceiling, what about an overhead piece that matches your vaulted ceiling? Might look cool, depending on how you bar is situated....???? Just a thought


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13466175
> 
> 
> this is all my brother sent me . he's about 1/2 way done



That's an interesting design. Would like to see some more pics if you get them. Tell him to get on here and share


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/13466447
> 
> 
> Thanks. If you have a vaulted ceiling, what about an overhead piece that matches your vaulted ceiling? Might look cool, depending on how you bar is situated....???? Just a thought



I say you just do the whole vaulted ceiling in mirrors.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13457902
> 
> 
> Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!



Randy,

Was meaning to ask you what are the dimensions of your bar. In particular what are the lengths down each side?


----------



## tank3467




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13467541
> 
> 
> I say you just do the whole vaulted ceiling in mirrors.



Are you talking about for the bar or his bedroom????


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13473114
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> Was meaning to ask you what are the dimensions of your bar. In particular what are the lengths down each side?




str1der,


I believe it is 7ishX4ishX2ish feet including the bar railing


----------



## malbols

Well i'm about 1/2 way done - it's actually my first woodworking project . Not perfect but i'm liking how it's coming together . The wall behind the bar will be Ledgestone.

A question . Do you guys use stainable wood filler or putty for imperfections ? I find the filler really does't stain well . If you use putty do you poly over it ? Thanks


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Nice work! It's coming along...


As for your question, I used the stainable filler but you're right, it doesn't stain very well. Fortunately, I only had minimal nail holes that I was filling so it's not noticeable at all...I'm probably the only one that could point them out actually.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/13517903
> 
> 
> Nice work! It's coming along...
> 
> 
> As for your question, I used the stainable filler but you're right, it doesn't stain very well. Fortunately, I only had minimal nail holes that I was filling so it's not noticeable at all...I'm probably the only one that could point them out actually.




I find that it's always better to use the stain colored wood putty once you're finished staining. You can usually find a shade that's pretty close to what ever you used.


----------



## malbols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13524211
> 
> 
> I find that it's always better to use the stain colored wood putty once you're finished staining. You can usually find a shade that's pretty close to what ever you used.



But do you poly over it ?


----------



## Tony_M




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13526450
> 
> 
> But do you poly over it ?



I did.


----------



## Tony_M

Before purchasing my kegerator kit I did some research on this site.

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/ 


Useful information about issues with temp, length of beer lines ext...


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13526450
> 
> 
> But do you poly over it ?




Never had a problem.


----------



## k2lounge

i don't have printed plans, but i do have some step by step construction photos of how I built my bar.


it is a basic L shaped bar, except the 'foot' of the L is actually a black jack table that i built.


i had to cut out a section of counter top behind the bar to give enough room to be able to deal black jack.


(i'll post a link to the construction photos as soon as i have three posts...)


finished product:

view from behind the bar:










view from the drinkin' side of the bar:


----------



## HeyNow^

That's a unique idea. Nice work!


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/13451754
> 
> 
> Here's where it is today.... Everything is done except the tile work on the counter areas. My wife and I picked out some expensive tile and just don't have the $$$ to get it right now.



Very nice bar. Have you thought about an Envirotex Epoxy top? You have a very nice finish to the wood already, so would be a shame to cover it with tile.


----------



## k2lounge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13545940
> 
> 
> That's a unique idea. Nice work!



thanks.


it's quite the hit at parties.


----------



## k2lounge

finally hit the 3 post mark...yay.

step by step bar construction photos 


and

how to build the lighted booze bottle shelf


----------



## Sdallnct

Need some suggestions for additional light in my bar.


Most have seen my bar built in this thread and the changes I continue to make. But now I must really do something about light. There are 4 skylights 3 windows and a glass door, so plenty of light during the day. But only a fan light, and small "street" lamp in a corner is all I got at night.


My ceiling is vaulted peak with no way to get to the attic. I'd like some spot lights to showcase some art on the walls and maybe some sort of hanging pendent lights over the bar itself. But I'm not sure how to do that without it being ugly!!


Suggestions? Ideas? Especially any links to lighting.


----------



## Tony_M

I have reviewed your pictures on page 2 of this thread.


It looks like you have full access to the back wall of the bar. What about sconces on the back wall , or building a soffett, supported by posts on the bar that you can run lighting into. Electrical can come in along the back wall. As you have an L shaped bar I think it could be done.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/13574571
> 
> 
> Need some suggestions for additional light in my bar.
> 
> 
> Most have seen my bar built in this thread and the changes I continue to make. But now I must really do something about light. There are 4 skylights 3 windows and a glass door, so plenty of light during the day. But only a fan light, and small "street" lamp in a corner is all I got at night.
> 
> 
> My ceiling is vaulted peak with no way to get to the attic. I'd like some spot lights to showcase some art on the walls and maybe some sort of hanging pendent lights over the bar itself. But I'm not sure how to do that without it being ugly!!
> 
> 
> Suggestions? Ideas? Especially any links to lighting.


----------



## malbols

yup - i agree - make a post or posts(tall boxes really) against the back wall , or even build a fake wall out a few inches(to run wires) You can tap into your existing wall elec outlets . Build a bulkhead or soffit as Tony said above your posts or extend the soffit over the bar top (it would be kinda "U" shaped then)


----------



## Sdallnct

Oh, now that's an idea! Why didn't I think of that!


The wall the bar is on (L connection) is the common wall with kitchen and can't do anything there. However, the opposite wall is common to the garage, so can easily do something there.


I actually found some "cable" track lighting I kind of like. I just couldn't figure out how to get power to it. Will have to think about that!! Awesome, thank you!


----------



## Tony_M

Looking forward to updated pictures when you get started.


----------



## J.T.450r

Hey folks I am looking for some alternatives to building a wooden bar. My basement walls are wood ceiling is drywall floor will be tile and I think a wood bar will be just to much wood. I thought the glass block bar was neat but to moderen for me. Basicly I am just hoping some of you might have some more metal bar ideas(on a mid to low range budget) or pics im having trouble finding anything. Thanks J.T.


----------



## Tony_M

I think metel is going to cost you big bucks regardless of the design. Aluminum, Stainless Steel or Copper, could all be used for a bartop.


There was a writeup in these forums of someone who made their bar top out of concrete. It really looks better then you think it would.


----------



## cjrivera




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/13579832
> 
> 
> I actually found some "cable" track lighting I kind of like. I just couldn't figure out how to get power to it. Will have to think about that!! Awesome, thank you!



Cable track lighting is a great way to go in a basement. I have them in my basement, and it is very versatile. I have several spot lights on the cables and can move them around depending on what kind of parties we are having. They are also good when spotlighting different art / hangings on the wall. If you decide to change the stuff on your wall, you have the flexibility to change accent lighting.


One negative is that they heat up a room very quickly, and 15-30 people in the basement, it heats up very quickly. I've had to turn on the air condition for New Year's Eve parties when it was 10 degrees outside.


----------



## malbols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J.T.450r* /forum/post/13610902
> 
> 
> Hey folks I am looking for some alternatives to building a wooden bar. My basement walls are wood ceiling is drywall floor will be tile and I think a wood bar will be just to much wood. I thought the glass block bar was neat but to moderen for me. Basicly I am just hoping some of you might have some more metal bar ideas(on a mid to low range budget) or pics im having trouble finding anything. Thanks J.T.



id go plywood (or drywall for that matter )covered with tile or brick or stone or etc etc.


----------



## Sdallnct

Well mine is not a basement (few if any basements in Dallas). But yea, I'm liking the idea. Will be home in a week and see what I can do.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjrivera* /forum/post/13612708
> 
> 
> Cable track lighting is a great way to go in a basement. I have them in my basement, and it is very versatile. I have several spot lights on the cables and can move them around depending on what kind of parties we are having. They are also good when spotlighting different art / hangings on the wall. If you decide to change the stuff on your wall, you have the flexibility to change accent lighting.
> 
> 
> One negative is that they heat up a room very quickly, and 15-30 people in the basement, it heats up very quickly. I've had to turn on the air condition for New Year's Eve parties when it was 10 degrees outside.


----------



## Sdallnct

You know there maybe some options. You could frame the bar as normal and then "skin" it with almost anything. Tin ceiling tiles? License plates? Hardy board (siding that is basically concreate) and paint it w/e color. Or use drywall and wallpaper, paint, w/e. You could also do a stone veneer (my lowes had some lightweight "fake" stone veneer).




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13615701
> 
> 
> id go plywood (or drywall for that matter )covered with tile or brick or stone or etc etc.


----------



## J.T.450r

Thanks that gave me a good idea. I think maybe a fake stone bar with nice wood top will go good with my project. Any bar top ideas?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1208008605 

Condecco 2.jpg


----------



## Sdallnct

You know I have seen some nice looking bar tops using Pergo type flooring. Nice colors, durable, and cheap.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J.T.450r* /forum/post/13622709
> 
> 
> Thanks that gave me a good idea. I think maybe a fake stone bar with nice wood top will go good with my project. Any bar top ideas?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1208008605
> 
> Condecco 2.jpg


----------



## malbols

you can really use your imagination for a bar top too .

Presently i have black ribbed rubber matt i just finished gluing down on the top of my bar (really like the textured look)- just getting ready to pour on the envirotex . the black looks great with all the dark oak i used everywhere else . Envirotex will coat just about anything , so let your imagination run wild - good luck .


----------



## Dinger23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13636279
> 
> 
> you can really use your imagination for a bar top too .
> 
> Presently i have black ribbed rubber matt i just finished gluing down on the top of my bar (really like the textured look)- just getting ready to pour on the envirotex . the black looks great with all the dark oak i used everywhere else . Envirotex will coat just about anything , so let your imagination run wild - good luck .




any photos that you could share? I'd like to see how that turned out


----------



## malbols

i should have it wrapped up in a few more days , then i'll post pics . Your bar looks awesome by the way


----------



## str1der

I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13666831
> 
> 
> I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?



I think it depends on the bar sink. Get 24" base cabinets and cut the backs off with a circular saw, the n put a new back on. My neighbor did this.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13666831
> 
> 
> I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?




I found 18" cabinets. You need to look for vanity or bathroom cabinets. I found mine at a cabinet builders warehouse. The had everything from 18" width to 36" width. I even got some with drawers that it nice. I had no luck at Lowes, Home Depot.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/13669924
> 
> 
> I found 18" cabinets. You need to look for vanity or bathroom cabinets. I found mine at a cabinet builders warehouse. The had everything from 18" width to 36" width. I even got some with drawers that it nice. I had no luck at Lowes, Home Depot.



I did look at some vanity cabinets and that is an option. I do have a couple issues with them though. Even the tall ones are a little short so I would have to build something for them to sit on. The other thing is I was hoping to have a lazy susan type corner cabinet or at least a blind corner cabinet because where it meets the wall I was planning on having a bar fridge next to it so you wouldn't be able to open the door of the cabinet.


----------



## Sdallnct

Are you really tall? I don't find the vanity cabinets short at all. In fact, I built a 1/2 wall on the outside for the bar side and it works really well. I also put in a beverage center. Now my sink is stand alone behind the bar.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/13683426
> 
> 
> Are you really tall? I don't find the vanity cabinets short at all. In fact, I built a 1/2 wall on the outside for the bar side and it works really well. I also put in a beverage center. Now my sink is stand alone behind the bar.



I guess the taller vanitys aren't bad at around 34".


----------



## malbols

Envirotex now on my ribbed black mat - real happy with the results .No poly on the wood yet though .


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

That looks great. Neat idea.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13667832
> 
> 
> I think it depends on the bar sink. Get 24" base cabinets and cut the backs off with a circular saw, the n put a new back on. My neighbor did this.
> 
> 
> Bud




Did he have any issues. It seems like most cabinets would start to fall apart when you cut the back off. Any tips to make it go smoothly?


----------



## cfmustang

I was actually thinking about doing that exact thing to make my backbar cabinets. My space is limited and I am planning on only going 12" - 16" deep.


----------



## mmb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/13695614
> 
> 
> Envirotex now on my ribbed black mat - real happy with the results .No poly on the wood yet though .



Does Envirotex raise the grain on wood like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmb* /forum/post/13717328
> 
> 
> Does Envirotex *raise the grain on wood* like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.



I don't think I understand what you're asking by that.


----------



## mmb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/13717424
> 
> 
> I don't think I understand what you're asking by that.



When finishing wood, you have to be careful that the product you using doesn't raise the grain on the wood since water swells wood fibers leaving "whiskers" on the surface. You can get around this by raising it yourself with a damn rag and then sanding the surface again after it dries a bit to get rid of the whiskers.


I was asking if Envirotex raises the grain.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmb* /forum/post/13717610
> 
> 
> When finishing wood, you have to be careful that the product you using doesn't raise the grain on the wood since water swells wood fibers leaving "whiskers" on the surface. You can get around this by raising it yourself with a damn rag and then sanding the surface again after it dries a bit to get rid of the whiskers.
> 
> 
> I was asking if Envirotex raises the grain.




I would think the Envirotex is usually pretty thick that even if it did swell a little it still wouldn't protrude through the surface.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/13717650
> 
> 
> I would think the Envirotex is usually pretty thick that even if it did swell a little it still wouldn't protrude through the surface.



I agree with that...it would take a pretty thin application of it in order for that to show. It may be happening under the surface, but Envirotex self-levels so you'd never know it.


----------



## Black and Irish

Sorry man .. can't help. But, the dicussion is making me thirsty. Damn!! I need a job where I can drink and get paid for it.


----------



## CTsan

I know exactly what you’re talking about and I would think Envirotex being a polymer is too thick to be absorbed into the wood fiber to raise the grain. So I don’t think it will be problem for you.


Good luck.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmb* /forum/post/13717328
> 
> 
> Does Envirotex raise the grain on wood like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.



Nope. It's a two-part polymer epoxy. It goes down thick-- think fifty coats of high-gloss poly.


----------



## Tony_M

I considered using a two part epoxy when I finished my bar top. however I chose not to as I have a liftup gate on one side of my bar, and I was concerned about finishing off that area.


I used 9 coats of oil based poly instead, each was hand rubbed between coats.


My question, for those who used a two part epoxy system; if I decided to do this, could I use the poly surface as a base coat, by sanding it out first?


----------



## GreySkies

I would think that as long as it's well-cured it'd work well. My wife has put it over water-based poly and acrylic paints with no problems. If it's not well-cured, I think it's possible that it could fog, but I've never seen it do that.


Your best bet might be to prepare a test piece of wood with some of the poly you used, let it cure for a week, put some epoxy over it and see what happens.


----------



## chinadog

No issues that I'm aware of. Obviously you have to put the back back on, so there is some work involved with that (and cut shelves). It's not the most elegant solution, but it is doable.


Bud


----------



## malbols

should be some answers in here about Envirotex - save this document and open

I dont think you can open it directly from here .

 

Environmental Technology Inc. tips.pdf 63.357421875k . file


----------



## Tony_M

Thanks Malbols, I need to sand and prep the area, first.


----------



## types

nice pics


----------



## Skers

Just a few pics of my "SnackBar"
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/img_0030.jpg 
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/img_0032.jpg 
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/img_0031.jpg 
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/img_0043.jpg 
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/img_0034.jpg


----------



## tmcttn

I am trying to make 22.5 degree miter cuts on my bar top rail, like the handrail jerrodshook put on his bar. My cuts are not lining up right can anyone tell me how to fix this problem.


----------



## malbols

the rail needs to sit in the saw like it would sit on your bartop . Meaning , you need to sit the rail on a 3/4" or 2 pcs. of 3/4" strip or strips (depending on the rail size) of wood . Get it ?


----------



## iborowski

Awesome bars, all! I'm just starting out on building my bar in my media room, so I've been following this thread for the past few months. Awesome info. Chinadog, I will definitely be stealing some ideas from yours. Great stuff.


Keep those pics coming!


----------



## chinadog

No problem, good luck with it!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tmcttn* /forum/post/13785073
> 
> 
> I am trying to make 22.5 degree miter cuts on my bar top rail, like the handrail jerrodshook put on his bar. My cuts are not lining up right can anyone tell me how to fix this problem.



The biggest thing I could say is make sure the hand rail is perfectly flat against the back of your mitre saw. Otherwise, if you're cutting it at 22.5 you shouldn't have any problems. If you can, post some pictures of the problem and you'll get lots of advice.


----------



## str1der

Have a few quick questions for those who have already built. I plan on having a kegerator that will be in the corner of my two tier bar built with kitchen cabs for the lower tier. The way it will sit the tap tower will come up through where the lower counter top will be. I haven't decided on the material yet for the counter top but was wondering if the tap towers are easy to take off. Otherwards can I make a hole in the counter top, remove the tower, roll the kegerator under the counter, line up the hole, and replace the tower? I haven't bought the kegerator yet so I'm not sure how they go together.


Second question is about the brass footrails. How high up do the supports connect to the bar? I want to make sure there is solid frame for them to connect to. Do you find them pretty sturdy or do you wish you would have went with a box type foot rest?


Thanks.


----------



## HeyNow^

Yes, you can. If the draft arm is already installed on the unit, pop the plastic chromed ring at the base of the draft arm and you will see 4-6 screws that attach it to the kegerator. If you are purchasing a new unit, you have to install it on the kegerator yourself anyway. Saves you a step!


It depends on what type of brass support you choose. Mine are supported a bit by the floor. I am thinking my rail supports are 5-6 inches up the bar. I am going through 3/4 inch plywood and 3/4 in solid oak. Mine are very sturdy. I was going to box my footrest in at first but now I'm glad I went with brass. I've seen some nice bars with box footrests though! Depends on what you like.


----------



## str1der

I was looking at getting the unit they have at Sam's Club


----------



## Neuner

I don't have brass foot rails but I planned for them. I found a couple that I would like and called the company to confirm what height they would meet the bar front for connection. I then installed blocking and a high enough base molding for them to attach to. You can see the 10" base in my construction photos.


----------



## R_Willis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/8327736
> 
> 
> I have the panels built for the front of the bar, we did that last weekend. I also have 9 corbels on hand that I need to stain as well. Should be a productive weekend, assuming it doesn't rain. I want to do my staining outside.
> 
> 
> Here's what the front panels an d corbels will look like. The overhang is about 9 inches.
> 
> 
> Bud



Couple questions for ya Bud.


So, the front (bar stool side) overhang is roughly ~9"? How about on the back side? 2/3"?


Do you happen to know how the granite people attached/anchored the bar top piece?


Thanks!


My bar is coming together nicely, should have pictures soon. The granite is the next step.


----------



## chinadog

Hey, just saw this (^) post. We've got maybe 1.5" of overlap on the other side, enough to run some track to hold a 1/2" rope light along the inside of the perimeter and have a little bit extra. The granite is held in place with pure silicon. The shear weight will hold it in place, but the silicon gives it some extra bite.


Bud


----------



## str1der

Not sure if anyone is interested but I was looking at this company for my granite http://www.bedrockcreations.net/ 


A slab is just way out of my budget. I haven't priced it out yet but will soon.


----------



## Sdallnct

I did get the 2nd window shelved, just never had a chance to post a pic...











Also added a floating shelf in the bar to hold some decorations.











And lastly for recent upgrades...I built by bar out of vanity (bathroom) cabinets as they were a little narrower (18" v. 24"). But they had no shelving inside them. So I added some recently. Much better organization...


----------



## str1der

Starting on my bar but have a little situation I'm hoping you guys can help me with. I'm using kitchen base cabinets with a half wall framed for the actual bar. I'll try to scan in my plans and post them but the basic issue is this. Part of the bar/back bar will be against a wall. There is an outlet there that I planned to tap into to run electric to various parts of the bar. I need to build a 6" deep half wall in front of where that outlet is then the cabinets will be against this new wall. Tapping into the electric isn't a problem but according to code I can't cover anykind of electric junction box. The only thing I can think to do is to cut out a big hole in the back of the cabinet and in the 6" half wall. I would hate to do this but not sure what else I could do. Any ideas would be appreciated


----------



## HeyNow^

Pictures?


----------



## str1der

Here's a scan of my drawing. The dark areas are the half walls I was referring to. The thicker one on the right shows where the outlet is on the original wall. Sorry graph paper doesn't scan well.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3.../barplan-1.jpg


----------



## malbols

Personally , i would remove the wall outlet and put in a covered junction box . Run wires from that to a new outlet . Of course if you want or need to stick with code that probably wouldn't fly .


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/14362194
> 
> 
> Personally , i would remove the wall outlet and put in a covered junction box . Run wires from that to a new outlet . Of course if you want or need to stick with code that probably wouldn't fly .




Well that's my issue it wouldn't be code. I think I've figured out what I'm going to do. I'm going to swap the 18" base cabinet and the bev fridge then leave an opening in the drywall in front of the outlet. Since the fridge can be pulled out that should satisfy code.


----------



## jerrodshook

I finally finished up my bar except for the kegerator. I posted more pics and details in my HT thread, but here's a couple of the pics.


Overall from front










From the back










The sink area










A couple closeups.....


----------



## str1der

Jerrod looks great. Have a couple questions. Is that black galaxy granite tile? How do you feel using the wood trim instead of the granite trim tiles? Where did you get that sink and what size is it?


----------



## HeyNow^

+1


I'm likin' that sink also. Very nice work!


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14440648
> 
> 
> Jerrod looks great. Have a couple questions. Is that black galaxy granite tile? How do you feel using the wood trim instead of the granite trim tiles? Where did you get that sink and what size is it?



I picked it up at Home Depot. It's not too big.... maybe 18-20" wide.


The tile is Black Galaxy and I got that at Lowe's. I have so much wood trim everywhere in the rest of my basement and around the bar so I wanted to stay consistent. Plus, Lowe's didn't have any trim tiles to look at. I found some at a tile store, but they were really expensive. I don't even remember how much but 1 piece cost more than all of the wood trim....


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14442311
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> I'm likin' that sink also. Very nice work!



Thanks. It turned out pretty nice. As stated, I just need a kegerator so I can really enjoy all the fruits of my labor!


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/14442545
> 
> 
> I picked it up at Home Depot. It's not too big.... maybe 18-20" wide.
> 
> 
> The tile is Black Galaxy and I got that at Lowe's. I have so much wood trim everywhere in the rest of my basement and around the bar so I wanted to stay consistent. Plus, Lowe's didn't have any trim tiles to look at. I found some at a tile store, but they were really expensive. I don't even remember how much but 1 piece cost more than all of the wood trim....



I know what you mean about the granite edging. The best price I can find is about $20 per 12" piece. I love the granite edging but each time I think about the cost I go back to wood.


Any issues or tips for cutting out the opening in the granite for the sink?


----------



## malbols

nice job - i don't see fully stocked liquor shelves though - LOL


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14443407
> 
> 
> I know what you mean about the granite edging. The best price I can find is about $20 per 12" piece. I love the granite edging but each time I think about the cost I go back to wood.
> 
> 
> Any issues or tips for cutting out the opening in the granite for the sink?



For the sink, my first recommendation is to get a square one. Makes the cuts very simple. Second, take a look at this picture.











I placed the granite so the left side ended at the sink, so the only cuts I had to make were on the right side of the sink. It was 2 simple "L" pieces I had to make. No problem at all.


Now, my neighbor just finished a similar project and he had a round copper sink and he a miserable time cutting it. Hard to explain, but he marked the tile and then using his wet saw he just cut a bunch of strips into the granite up to he line. You could say he cut perpendicular to the circle he traced on the tile. Then, he just snapped the thin pieces off. It worked, it just took him a while to do it.


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/14444021
> 
> 
> nice job - i don't see fully stocked liquor shelves though - LOL



It's under the bar.







Couldn't risk any damage or breakage while I was tiling.


The shelves on the wall is one of the next things on the list to do.


----------



## str1der

Well unfortunately I can't have the sink line up like that but I already decided I will do a square sink. I've used that technique for curves when doing tile and it isn't fun.


Did you use 3/4" plywood then backerboard on top of that?


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14448346
> 
> 
> Well unfortunately I can't have the sink line up like that but I already decided I will do a square sink. I've used that technique for curves when doing tile and it isn't fun.
> 
> 
> Did you use 3/4" plywood then backerboard on top of that?



I didn't even both with backer board. I just used the OSB and left it at that. I'm sure there are folks that will tell me I should of put more down, I just didn't bother.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/14458048
> 
> 
> I didn't even both with backer board. I just used the OSB and left it at that. I'm sure there are folks that will tell me I should of put more down, I just didn't bother.




Another question for you. What did you use to seal the space between the granite tile and the wood trim?


----------



## str1der

Has anyone ever used a thin coat of Envirotex applied with a brush to your bar rail instead of poly? Any reason why this wouldn't work to put a little thicker finish on there?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

str1der - I didn't use envirotex on my bar rail (just lots of coats of gloss poly), but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Seems like it would be more expensive than Poly though, and you'd have to be careful of how it has a tendency to run/drip.


----------



## HeyNow^

It might work if you let it set up a bit.....It does run quickly... Maybe wait 5 minutes and test, then maybe 10 minutes....depends on how warm your room is when you pour it too. I'll bet it is comfy too, it's as smooth as silk.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14747672
> 
> 
> It might work if you let it set up a bit.....It does run quickly... Maybe wait 5 minutes and test, then maybe 10 minutes....depends on how warm your room is when you pour it too. I'll bet it is comfy too, it's as smooth as silk.



I guess I was thinking of applying it like poly with a brush not pouring it.


----------



## LSWHO

Some photos of my bar that still has a ways to go...Bar top is copper and will be covered with envirotex. Where is everyone here getting their envirotex from?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Local craft chains (AC Moore & Michaels) are where I got mine. They also regularly run 40% off coupons in the Sunday Newspaper circulars too.


----------



## psubill78

What height are folks using for the bar?


I love the one 2 posts above. Very nice.


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/14770182
> 
> 
> Local craft chains (AC Moore & Michaels) are where I got mine. They also regularly run 40% off coupons in the Sunday Newspaper circulars too.



Okay thanks IrmoGamecoq, I will have to look again, the 2 Michael stores I went to only carried a small amount of envirotex, I need much more than they have and thought it would be cheaper buying it in bulk.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Yeah, I think the largest size they carried for me was the half(?) gallon. I just bought several bottles of the largest size (of course, using a different coupon each time).


----------



## HeyNow^

I got my gallon sizes here http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discou...ic-Coating.htm


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14775947
> 
> 
> I got my gallon sizes here http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discou...ic-Coating.htm



Thanks Heynow...that price is the lowest I've seen so far for a gallon. How much did it take to do your bar top?


----------



## HeyNow^

I used 96 oz on the first pour. I then tried to clean up a mishap that I had with 32 oz. after the initial pour set up. It didn't work out, so I ordered another gallon and I am going to pour another 96 oz. soon. If I had not screwed up the initial pour, I would have been okay with one 96 oz. pour. My bar is about 7'X4'X16".


----------



## malbols

My bar top is approx. 20" wide x 16 ft. long - i used about 1 1/2 gallons

and got full coverage of at least 1/8" . I think so long as your bartop is very level this would be plenty .

You could always ask Micheals if they could order a gallon size .


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/14785383
> 
> 
> My bar top is approx. 20" wide x 16 ft. long - i used about 1 1/2 gallons
> 
> and got full coverage of at least 1/8" . I think so long as your bartop is very level this would be plenty .
> 
> You could always ask Micheals if they could order a gallon size .



Thanks guys that helps - I am more similar to malbols with about 16 ft in length x 15 1/4 wide. What did you use to spread it? I have read foam brushes, business cards, cardboard, plastic spatula? I read to start in a circular motion starting from end to center, is that what you did?


----------



## HeyNow^

Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;


_________/====


I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.


EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.


----------



## elmalloc

great ascii drawing


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14788947
> 
> 
> Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;
> 
> 
> _________/====
> 
> 
> I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.
> 
> 
> EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.



Okay thanks Randy.... I will be starting this weekend with just a very thin coat on the bar rail itself to seal the oak (per envirotex) then I'll be ordering the rest and hopefully getting it done in the next week or two.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LSWHO* /forum/post/14770050
> 
> 
> Some photos of my bar that still has a ways to go...Bar top is copper and will be covered with envirotex. Where is everyone here getting their envirotex from?



That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?


----------



## HeyNow^

I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14806535
> 
> 
> I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....



Thanks Randy but I had nothing but problems this weekend...I tried the Envirotex on a cigar box that I had and some shelves (just extra stuff) to try and get familiar with the envirotex. I thought I had a pretty good idea of how it was so I tried the bar rail.....what a mess. I don't even know where to start. First off per envirotex I was told to put down a seal coat because of the oak. I put down a very thin layer following the directions to a T. Well I should have known this wasn't going to work when it was bubbling like crazy per the directions you shouldn't use a propane torch on a seal coat so I just had a blow dryer and my breath, but when you have a 32 oz already mixed you can't really try and see what's going on otherwise you'll end up wasting it. So I continued....it has for lack of a better term "circles" all over it. almost like it didn't adhear to the wood or something? At the same time I did the drip rail also and this turned out perfect. I used the same method for the both so I don't think it was not sanded or wiped down enough or anything like that. (I sanded all of the bar with 100 then 150 then 220 then 320 then 420 then wiped it all down with tack cloth 2 times. I am not sure what happened but just a little frustrated at this point. Why couldn't it be the drip rail that sucked I could have hid that alot easier than the main view - the bar rail....I think the angle of the bar rail had something to do with it but not 100%.


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/14805279
> 
> 
> That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?



Thanks Sdallnct,

I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.


----------



## HeyNow^

I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.


The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.


I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14806958
> 
> 
> I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.
> 
> 
> The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.
> 
> 
> I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!




Randy, heres some pics, i'll post more on my thread.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/14447151
> 
> 
> For the sink, my first recommendation is to get a square one. Makes the cuts very simple. Second, take a look at this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I placed the granite so the left side ended at the sink, so the only cuts I had to make were on the right side of the sink. It was 2 simple "L" pieces I had to make. No problem at all.
> 
> 
> Now, my neighbor just finished a similar project and he had a round copper sink and he a miserable time cutting it. Hard to explain, but he marked the tile and then using his wet saw he just cut a bunch of strips into the granite up to he line. You could say he cut perpendicular to the circle he traced on the tile. Then, he just snapped the thin pieces off. It worked, it just took him a while to do it.



Jerrod I have a question about your sink allignment. I see how you moved the sink next to a tile edge to simplify cutting and I'm thinking now that I will be able to do the same thing. Can you tell me how did you do the grout where the sink meets up to the tile edge? What did you use to attach the sink to granite top? I think I'm going to pick up the same sink.


----------



## djmas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LSWHO* /forum/post/14806944
> 
> 
> Thanks Sdallnct,
> 
> I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.




I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djmas* /forum/post/14817976
> 
> 
> I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!




Marcus, I detailed it more in a PM to you but it was listed on their site as a Copper Foil Roll at .10 thickness - 30 gauge. It came rolled up. I have some more photos on my thread (just click on it in my signature section)

thanks,

Dennis


----------



## djmas

Dennis, thanks so much for the pm. Once again I must say your's came out amazing. Hope mine comes out half as good, now if I could just get started!


hahaha,


----------



## str1der

Have an Envirotex question. I bought a gallon kit that covers 32 sqft. I assume it's at 1/8" but not sure. I have a bar surface that's about 16.6 sqft (roughly 10' X 20"). Question is should I mix the whole thing and do a single pour or should I do half of it and do two pours? Am I correct that the coverage is based on 1/8" thick?


----------



## HeyNow^

Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14858517
> 
> 
> Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.





So how thick did most people go? Is 1/8" enough or should you do 1/4"?


----------



## HeyNow^

I think your only limitation is how you have the bar top dammed up. Since it will seek its own level you could build up the sides to hold as much as you want. The instructions recommend 1/8. Perhaps its because it would take a longer time to cure.... I dunno.


----------



## str1der

Well I did my pour and ran into an issue. I took your advice and sealed the cracks/spaces between the top and the rail/trim with clear silicone. Unfortunately what I feared would happen did. Where ever there was silicone the envirotex was repelled. Not blaming you just want to warn people. I've got a call into the company asking for advice. I'll let you know what the say. I don't know if there is something I can do to the silicone so that it takes. I used a pretty hefty pour 96 oz so I don't think that was the issue.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hmmmm...interesting....didn't happen to me.


----------



## str1der

Well they told me I can try to use some poly or maybe clear fingernail polish to put a seal coat over the silicone. Then try to put more Envirotex over the area.


----------



## HeyNow^

Do you have any pictures to show us?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14868628
> 
> 
> Do you have any pictures to show us?



I'll try to take a few tonight when I get home. I'm going to stop and pick up some nail polish on the way home. I'll probably need to get some more Envirotex also.


----------



## HeyNow^

You don't have to do your nails before the second pour of EnviroTex


----------



## IrmoGamecoq









Good one, Randy.


I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.


----------



## str1der

Funny.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/14869504
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good one, Randy.
> 
> 
> I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.



I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14869782
> 
> 
> I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.



He (Ken) by the way. Basically I applied it just like you would caulk. I put a bead in all the seams then used my finger to smooth it out. Obviously when smoothing it out it spread out a little. These are the areas that are repelling. From the reading I've done since, just about nothing will stick to silicone and it's about impossible to remove chemically. You pretty much have to use abbrasion to get rid of it. Even when removed it still tends to leave a film. I also read that another thing that can be used as a seal coat over the silicone would be contact cement. Wish me luck.


Another bit of advice I would impart is not to use Maple. This has to be some of the hardest wood I've ever tried to stain. It just didn't want to take it well.


----------



## HeyNow^

Sorry to hear of your difficulites, Ken. Keep at it!


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

I'm willing to bet another coat of e-tex will cover that right up. It doesn't matter how much it tries to "repel" it...gravity will over power it.


P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/14870430
> 
> 
> P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.



yeah...and it's real purdy too....


----------



## str1der

Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14870787
> 
> 
> yeah...and it's real purdy too....



Hey, thanks!


I should've probably pointed out in case y'all don't remember my thread on this, but I had to do 2 pours on mine because the e-tex leaked down through the gaps in my wood flooring...that's one of the reasons my pour was so thick.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14870944
> 
> 
> Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.



I didn't do the tent thing myself, but I'd imagine you'd need to set that sort of thing up *before* you pour...otherwise, the act of setting it up would stir up the very dust you're trying to prevent.


----------



## HeyNow^

Yepper, I was stupid enough to try to set my tent up after about an hour or so and a few beers....dumbass move.... After a couple of hours Etex is the consistency of warm peanut butter and when it lifts up and sticks to the plactic it makes nice 3D mountains on the top!


Can you run a clothes line across the room and drape plastic over that? Let me know what you do, so I can copy it for my final pour


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14871280
> 
> 
> Yepper, I was stupid enough to try to set my tent up after about an hour or so and a few beers....dumbass move.... After a couple of hours Etex is the consistency of warm peanut butter and when it lifts up and sticks to the plactic it makes nice 3D mountains on the top!
> 
> 
> Can you run a clothes line across the room and drape plastic over that? Let me know what you do, so I can copy it for my final pour



I tried setting something up before but just couldn't get it to work. Like you I have an angle in my bar which makes the clothes line type setup difficult to pull off. I tried attaching a big plastic drop cloth to the walls using tape but it's just to long of a run to keep it from drooping.


----------



## HeyNow^

Then I would just forgetaboutit....and hope for the best.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14871448
> 
> 
> Then I would just forgetaboutit....and hope for the best.



You sound like you're from Jersey "forgetaboutit"


----------



## HeyNow^

My pour had those same little imperfections. After using the blow torch to release most of the bubbles, I honestly think that those random imperfections are air bubbles that worked their way to the surface after it began to set up and couldn't quite "pop".


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14871654
> 
> 
> My pour had those same little imperfections. After using the blow torch to release most of the bubbles, I honestly think that those random imperfections are air bubbles that worked their way to the surface after it began to set up and couldn't quite "pop".




Did they look like little dents about the size of a dime? You only see them if you're looking from an angle that is reflecting the light.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Yes, you will find small imperfections in your pour that your guests will never ever notice.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/14871724
> 
> 
> Yes, you will find small imperfections in your pour that your guests will never ever notice.



I guess since it's so smooth the imperfections really stand out.


----------



## str1der

I just need to get this part done so I can move on to doing my granite coutertops. I found a great place to get the Benissimo granite system http://www.benissimosystems.com/default.aspx 


The place I bought it from only charged me around $650 for 32sqft of counter and $150 of that was for shipping.


----------



## tank3467




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14870944
> 
> 
> Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.



I really wouldnt worry about a tent. I just covered my vents and left my fan off and didnt have any problems from dust. I also helped a friend do his, same thing no problems.


I wish I would have realized that know one had posted about the silicone repelling. I had read this on another site and would have mentioned it. Thats why I used wood putty to fill in my cracks before pouring. (Not that the enviro still didnt find some cracks and leak through)


----------



## malbols

Yep- i didn't tent mine either, just vaccuumed before and turned off furnace etc. No probs.

I filled my gaps with white glue - dried clear - worked great with the Envirotex


----------



## str1der

Well I haven't tried the fix yet but I did try to take a few pics. Unfortunately they didn't come out very good. Also here's a pic of my current progress.


----------



## malbols

Really a nice job Str1der- that's really got to piss you off about the silicone though .


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/14877400
> 
> 
> Really a nice job Str1der- that's really got to piss you off about the silicone though .




Thanks. I think it will eventualy work out just going to take some extra work.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

So far we're batting a thousand on the E-tex repours here at AVS (myself, Randy, and you) so I wouldn't worry about it.


Look on the brightside and think how thick and glossy it's going to look when finished.


----------



## elmalloc

really great job strider


----------



## str1der

Well just poured the second coat. I'll be going back in about 5 minutes to do some bubble popping


----------



## str1der

Well second coat covered over the areas that didn't cover before. I used clear fingernail polis to go over the silicone before pouring. Unfortunatley a couple other areas that didn't have an issue before cropped up this time. Don't know if I'm going to do a third coat or not. I think the fumes are starting to make me a little loopy.


----------



## Neuner

I had used silicone in select spots and not over the entire bar. I had used the silicone after the 1st pour to seal up the large holes that weren't getting filled. My 2nd pour covered them up with no problems but then I didn't spread it out like you had.


If you review my 'Coat Bar Top' thread you can see pics where the E-tex didn't cover select areas on my initial pour. I never found out why. Luckily the second pour took care of them.


My silicon wasn't near the top but more down in the crack. I hope your next pour works. BTW, my top is about 3/16" average.


If you have to lightly sand the top to get rid of the silicon I think you will be alright. I had a couple of large bubbles on my first pour and I was able to sand off the top of them and fill them in on the second pour. No matter how hard you look, you can not see any of the bubble impressions or scratches from the sandpaper.


Edit - Just realized I missed all of today's posts. Really like the look of your bar especially the rear tray. I had some dime size impressions on my first pour that might be a similar thing. I just think you need to really put it on thick next time. Too thin will create a lot of problems. E-tex needs to flow and level itself out. I had a lot of dust in my basement but never had an issue with it so I wouldn't worry about the tent idea. Don't wait to use the torch to get rid of bubbles - act on it right away and work it for as long as you can. Just make sure you are more than 12" away from the surface or you will scorch it creating even more problems.


----------



## HeyNow^

One other thing I found out also. The recommendation is that you mix equal parts in a container and then transfer to another container. I assume that by doing this you will make certain everything in the bottom of the container gets mixed correctly. In my first container, I still have Etex that did not set up on the very bottom.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14883471
> 
> 
> One other thing I found out also. The recommendation is that you mix equal parts in a container and then transfer to another container. I assume that by doing this you will make certain everything in the bottom of the container gets mixed correctly. In my first container, I still have Etex that did not set up on the very bottom.



I read that also but didn't do it. I did mix very well and really scrapped the sides and bottom while doing it. I'm going to make one final pour of 96 oz. and then thats it. This time I will do the two bucket method though.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Good luck! Hope this is the final pour.


Neuner reminded me of the fact that I sandpapered the e-tex between coats (per the instructions) and he's right, you'd never know it by looking. It filled in all the little scratches perfectly.


----------



## HeyNow^

That's good to know, I need to sand down some high spots from my screw up.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14877069
> 
> 
> Well I haven't tried the fix yet but I did try to take a few pics. Unfortunately they didn't come out very good. Also here's a pic of my current progress.



str1der,


Sorry I haven't replied sooner to this pic message...couldn't see your pics at work.. That is some very nice work!


----------



## str1der

Thanks Randy. Have a long way to go. I would really like a back bar like yours but not sure I know how to build it.


----------



## HeyNow^

Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.


----------



## Tony_M

str1der


I went different on the back bar as you can see in the pics. My favorite was the lighted Liquour shelfs, that cost me next to nothing to build. The most expensive part was the 12 dollar florescent fixture under it.


Since my wife and I love to watch football at the bar, having the tv in the back was important to us.


----------



## HeyNow^

I really like that lighted shelving....simple and effective. Nice work.


----------



## GreySkies




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14891002
> 
> 
> Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.



True-- however, when I did mine, I made a fundimental error regarding the overhang of the shelf on the base cabinet that made me have to fudge the face frame. Nobody notices it except me. Which is every time I sit at my bar.


Man-- the easiest part of the whole bar and I screw it up. I always say, "make a drawing before building anything, no matter how small," but what happens when I ignore my own advice? I screw it up. Hubris and ate.


----------



## str1der

Yes I really like that lighted shelf. I've seen similar things for displaying tap handles.


----------



## elmalloc

strider can you go back to playing shuffleboard instead of building this kick ass bar table


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14910482
> 
> 
> strider can you go back to playing shuffleboard instead of building this kick ass bar table




Thanks for the complement. Wish I could play some shuffleboard. I'm kinda under the gun to get the majority of the bar finished for our Halloween/ Birthday party. I haven't been able to play shuffleboard for a long time. It seems like I'm always working on a project and never have the time to actually enjoy the fruits of my labor.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14891002
> 
> 
> Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.



Randy,


How did you do the mirror? What holds it in? Is there a back to the box and then the mirro is attached to it?


----------



## HeyNow^

Str1der,


The mirror is simply 36X48 beveled stock mirror from Lowes. I dropped the mirror into a U shaped silver channel at the bottom that you get from Lowes in the same aisle. I then put two clear clips at the top side of the mirror and screwed them to the wall. You have to look hard to see any of it.


I wanted to be able to disassemble the back bar if needed and not have to worry about the mirror. Each element can stand alone. I just can't get over my nomadic military ways from years past. I seem to do things that I can undo quickly.


----------



## str1der

So you just built the back bar frame around the mirror? For the shelves did you have some kind of jig to do the holes for the shelves? Did you just use cabinet grade plywood then use trim on the front?


By the way I did my final pour on the bartop last night and it came out pretty good. I did end up with a couple very small dimples that I guess came from air bubbles. I kept going back and checking about every 10 minutes for an hour for new bubbles but these must have surfaced quite a bit later. I am going to do one more pour in my beer gutter though. I wanted as much as possible on the top so I really didn't pread it into the gutter.


Tonight I'll be attaching my backerboard to my plywood in preperation to do my granite tile.


----------



## HeyNow^

Actually, there is about 3/8 of an inch around the mirror so I can remove it if I throw something at it and break it.







Yes, I used a jig for positioning the holes, I got it from Rockler. I could have used plywood, but I use 1X6 solid oak! I then trimmed it out.


----------



## str1der

Looking for an opinion on the back bar. If you look at the pic of my bar on the previous page you'll see the little halfwall/ledge back there. It's about 6-8" deep. Do you think I should have the back bar rest on there or should I elevate it above that shelf?


----------



## HeyNow^

How high off the floor is it?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14923847
> 
> 
> How high off the floor is it?



It's the same height as the bar top. Actually the bar top sits on that wall on that end.


----------



## kavh

I will throw my bar back up incase it helps.











I did it similar to Randy, I hung the mirror with clips, and then I hung a shelf below the mirror. Built two boxes of equal size to hang on each side of the mirror and just placed them on the shelf. Put another board across the top. I screwed the top of the boxes into the studs for support. Then I put up some trim, mostly to keep any bottles from sliding off, but it was also a bit decorative and covered the bottom of the boxes so you don't see the bottom of the box setting on top of the shelf. It turned out to be the simplest part of the bar area and really changes the feel of bar than anything.


----------



## elmalloc

great


----------



## str1der

Thanks Kavh. This definetly gives me some more ideas. How deep is it?


Well I got the granite tiles installed today. Spent about 8 hours straight working on it. Also got my brass footrail installed. Man I'm beat.


----------



## kavh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14943053
> 
> 
> Thanks Kavh. This definetly gives me some more ideas. How deep is it?
> 
> 
> Well I got the granite tiles installed today. Spent about 8 hours straight working on it. Also got my brass footrail installed. Man I'm beat.



I used 1X6 to construct the bottom shelf and the boxes. So 5 and a half inches. The back plywood is just quarter inch.


----------



## str1der

Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics


----------



## R_Willis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14947217
> 
> 
> Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics



Looking good!!!


I think we have the same sink man.


----------



## HeyNow^

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R_Willis* /forum/post/14947230
> 
> 
> Looking good!!!
> 
> 
> I think we have the same sink man.



I told you I really liked yours. I just wanted something that would go with the black granite.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14947251
> 
> 
> That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!




Thanks Randy appreciate the kind words. Still have a few things to do. I just did the backsplash today so I still have to grout it and put some trim along the top edge where it meets the wood shelf. Then I need to drill a hole in the granite for my kegerator tower. As you can tell I originally was doing something different so I had the white electrical outlets. Haven't had a chance to change them out for black ones.


I think I'm going to take a little breather and regroup before doing the back bar


----------



## Dinger23

I always forget this thread is here.







Some nice builds in here



Str1der nice work. I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.


----------



## elmalloc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14947251
> 
> 
> That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!



Thanks for calling me gentleman


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/14949676
> 
> 
> I always forget this thread is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some nice builds in here
> 
> 
> 
> Str1der nice work. I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.



It took me 3 pours to get it right. A big pour then small then finally another big pour. I did end up devising a way to make a tent over it and it kept out most of the dust.


----------



## elmalloc

strider can i hire you to make a bar for me in ohio


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/14952152
> 
> 
> strider can i hire you to make a bar for me in ohio



Please tell me you're joking.


----------



## malbols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/14949676
> 
> 
> I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.



I poured mine in one go - no problems at all . Don't be scared


----------



## bchristo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14947217
> 
> 
> Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics


*Str1der* - what kind of beverage center (under counter) is that? And is it staying cold enough for you liking? I am looking at putting the same type under my back bar but there have been mixed reviews on whether or not the beverage center types of coolers/fridges keep the brewski's cold enough.


Everything looks Awesome! I may ask for your and Randy's support when pouring my e-tex top!


----------



## Tony_M

Thanks.


They also look better with lots of bottles on them.














> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14898890
> 
> 
> I really like that lighted shelving....simple and effective. Nice work.


----------



## Tony_M

Str1der


The bar is looking better! Good job on the finish.


----------



## str1der

Here's the fridge . It works ok but haven't really used it much. The temp setting goes down to 43 degrees. Not ice cold but does the job. I think I got it on sale for $189.



Plus it's got such a cool blue light.


----------



## elmalloc

we'll only tak eit for $100


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/14965508
> 
> 
> Here's the fridge . It works ok but haven't really used it much. The temp setting goes down to 43 degrees. Not ice cold but does the job. I think I got it on sale for $189.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus it's got such a cool blue light.



I use a beverage center I picked up from Sams. You can see it in my photos. It works great.


But I agree...if you drink clear beer and want it "ice cold" mine really doesn't do that either. Good quality beer should not be served ice cold and so that 40-45 range is perfect. That is what I have in the bar for my beers. Then in the garage I have a regular refrigerator I picked up used that I keep *gulp* Coors light and my wife Mich Ultra.


But for example, pull out a Fat Tire (my house beer) or Old Speckled Hen (pub can), maybe a Rouge, and of course a standard Guinness (pub can) and pour in a pint glass, let it set a minute or two, it is PERFECT.


When I have parties and I know I have friends who just won't drink anything but clear beer I sometimes just set a small cooler full of Coors Light and Miller Light on ice in the cooler.


----------



## str1der

Well I got the bar finished and kegerator installed (not counting the back bar) and it was a big hit at the party Saturday. Here's some new pics.


----------



## Tony_M

Nice job.


----------



## jerrodshook

Realy nice job on that. Came out great. I wish my Envirotex was done.... I'm almost too afraid to do it and mess it up.


BTW, can you list the model of kegerator you have there. I think that one would work well for me based on your pics.


----------



## elmalloc

dang awesome job now play shuffleboard


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/15029733
> 
> 
> Realy nice job on that. Came out great. I wish my Envirotex was done.... I'm almost too afraid to do it and mess it up.
> 
> 
> BTW, can you list the model of kegerator you have there. I think that one would work well for me based on your pics.



Thanks. Here's the one I bought. http://www.micromatic.com/keg-refrig...-SBC490BI.html . Check out the forum there for great advise. I went with the undercounter model because I didn't want to risk over heating.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/15030519
> 
> 
> dang awesome job now play shuffleboard




Actually I did play a little last weekend. I really want to get an electronic scoreboard but need to wait until I recover from the money I spent on the bar.


----------



## elmalloc

ask Todd for his cheaper scoreboard, i think it runs $350-400 I forgot - might be less. I have it. I'll take a pic later today.


----------



## Jacqualynn

We are building a home bar and not sure what the back of the front bar cabinet should look like since we want to put an ice maker, double sink with draining counters, dishwasher, and beer meister in there. We have a U-shaped wall in place with plumbing and electrical. The back bar will house trash compactor, shelving, and 5' horizontal refrigerator. All of the bar plans I have seen have shelving in the front bar cabinet.


----------



## elmalloc

dang how can pepole afford that in these down economic times


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jacqualynn* /forum/post/15049316
> 
> 
> We are building a home bar and not sure what the back of the front bar cabinet should look like since we want to put an ice maker, double sink with draining counters, dishwasher, and beer meister in there. We have a U-shaped wall in place with plumbing and electrical. The back bar will house trash compactor, shelving, and 5' horizontal refrigerator. All of the bar plans I have seen have shelving in the front bar cabinet.



I guess if you're looking to do that many "appliances" I would definetely use kitchen base cabinets like I did. It will make life a lot easier than trying to do it from scratch. Just be on the look out for cabinet deals. I got mine from a local builders warehouse.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/15049409
> 
> 
> dang how can pepole afford that in these down economic times




Don't want to hear it. I know what you paid for your shuffleboard table.


----------



## elmalloc

That was before the economic crisis


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Finally got a chance to see your pics and your bar looks phenomenal, Str1der. Nice work!


----------



## Jacqualynn

Thanks for the info. Str1der. By the way, your bar really looks nice. I hope ours will turn out as well.


----------



## elmalloc

It will jacqualynn!


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IrmoGamecoq* /forum/post/15055106
> 
> 
> Finally got a chance to see your pics and your bar looks phenomenal, Str1der. Nice work!




Thanks. It was a lot of work but worth it. Couldn't have done it without all the help here.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jacqualynn* /forum/post/15061514
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Str1der. By the way, your bar really looks nice. I hope ours will turn out as well.



Just take your time and feel free to ask questions here.


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15031050
> 
> 
> Thanks. Here's the one I bought. http://www.micromatic.com/keg-refrig...-SBC490BI.html . Check out the forum there for great advise. I went with the undercounter model because I didn't want to risk over heating.



Thanks. Did you make any modifications to this before putting it in? I know the tower is supposed to attach to the kegerator itself, but you have it on your bar top.... just like I want. I guess it's easy, just curious if you took any pics while you did this?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/15084384
> 
> 
> Thanks. Did you make any modifications to this before putting it in? I know the tower is supposed to attach to the kegerator itself, but you have it on your bar top.... just like I want. I guess it's easy, just curious if you took any pics while you did this?



Well I still have a couple modifications to make. I'm going to put a blower inside to keep the tower cool. I'm also going to move the temp sensor a little further away from the cold plate so that I can get it just a little colder.


As far as the tower goes it wasn't to hard. Since I used kitchen cabinets there is only about an inch between the underside of the counter and the top of the kegerator. When I enlarge the hole for the blower tube I'll put a 2" PVC between the two. Right now I simply put a piece of pipe insullation there.


Probably the hardest part was trying to cut a hole and drill screw holes in the granite. I just ordered a 2.5" diamond hole saw off ebay. I only had a 1" when it came in but that was big enough to cut the hole for my beer line.


----------



## Neuner

Looks cool! I take it the envirotex finally turned out alright? I really like the backsplash tile.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Neuner* /forum/post/15091373
> 
> 
> Looks cool! I take it the envirotex finally turned out alright? I really like the backsplash tile.



Yes the envirotex finally took right. I used clear fingernail polish to go over the silicone that I had put in the cracks and poured a very heavy coat. I think the heavy coat is the key. It doesn't pay to skimp on the pour. Also it made a huge difference coming up with a way to tent the area. Kept almost all the little dust particles that were floating around off the surface.


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15105068
> 
> 
> Yes the envirotex finally took right. I used clear fingernail polish to go over the silicone that I had put in the cracks and poured a very heavy coat. I think the heavy coat is the key. It doesn't pay to skimp on the pour. Also it made a huge difference coming up with a way to tent the area. Kept almost all the little dust particles that were floating around off the surface.



Can you explain how you did the tent for the area?











And I agree with the above, NICE JOB!


----------



## Iusteve

I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.


P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I havent even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/15114872
> 
> 
> Can you explain how you did the tent for the area?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I agree with the above, NICE JOB!




Basically what I did was run two clothes lines from one wall to the other. One a little in front of the bar and the other a little behind. I then draped a thin plastic drop cloth over the whole thing.


----------



## Iusteve

Kind of off topic but i am new here.....When I leave AVSforums. How can i then comeback and find these pages? I tried to open a new window and go to avsforums.com and find these bar plan forums with no luck and i need to go to bed soon as I have been reading them for literally 7-8hrs now


----------



## malbols

Once you are at this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277 

- add it to your favourites .

When you come to the site on the right hand side - 1/2 way down your screen you'll see page #'s - just click on the word last .

P.S. - i believe they sell the rails at home depot etc. - they should be able to cut you a 6" pc. so you can check it out - see what you need etc. And keep reading - LOL


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15125322
> 
> 
> I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.
> 
> 
> P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I havent even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie




Steve,


Look at post #29 in my build thread and you will see a cutaway of how I installed the bar railing. That is just one version. Lots of folks around here can also give you their examples.


Good luck.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15127359
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Look at post #29 in my build thread and you will see a cutaway of how I installed the bar railing. That is just one version. Lots of folks around here can also give you their examples.
> 
> 
> Good luck.



As soon as I learn to navigate this site I MIGHT be able to find your thread..lol. Man I am seeing stars after starring at this site for about 10 straight hours last night.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/15127056
> 
> 
> Once you are at this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277
> 
> - add it to your favourites .
> 
> When you come to the site on the right hand side - 1/2 way down your screen you'll see page #'s - just click on the word last .
> 
> P.S. - i believe they sell the rails at home depot etc. - they should be able to cut you a 6" pc. so you can check it out - see what you need etc. And keep reading - LOL



Thanks for helping the ignorant newbie. I will check HD and see what they have. I wonder if places like Rockler or the place Heynow was speaking of would send a sample peice? hmm. And as far as reading I plan on doing ALOT of that.


Edit

Just checked homedepot dot com and didnt see the bar rails. That would of been to easy..lol


----------



## HeyNow^

Look at McDaniels web site they will show a profile and it's measurment (I think).


READ Steve READ







click on the link at the bottom of this message MY BAR BUILD


----------



## Dinger23

Iusteve welcome to AVS. Most people who have a theater or bar build thread of their own on here put a link in their signature line which will show up at the bottom of there post. Before building my room I looked through many pages to get ideas and to pick up some tips. I found lots of help here.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/15129602
> 
> 
> Iusteve welcome to AVS. Most people who have a theater or bar build thread of their own on here put a link in their signature line which will show up at the bottom of there post. Before building my room I looked through many pages to get ideas and to pick up some tips. I found lots of help here.



Thanks for the tip, I will do when I am ready to start. I did however see part of your thread and from what I saw it is spectacular. Great work!!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15125322
> 
> 
> I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.
> 
> 
> P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I haven't even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie



While the rail is really nice, don't think you have to do that. If you look back at my build, you will see I just did a straight piece of molding.


Don't get me wrong, the rail is awesome, but just didn't want you to get locked in with something you might not be comfortable with. I didn't do the traditional rail for a couple of reason;


1. as a beginner I didn't know if I had the skill to install it. Or how long it would take me to do.

2. I was on a tight budget, and simply didn't want to spend the money

3. I really wanted to keep the bar size proportional to the room. Not only in physical size, but also is appearance. So I wanted a "smaller" look.

4. and lastly and perhaps most importantly, my buddy came into town unannounced for work and I wanted him to help me. So we had a day to plan, a day to shop and about 2 days build as much as we could. And doing the formal rail was really just not something we planned for...LOL


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/15133838
> 
> 
> While the rail is really nice, don't think you have to do that. If you look back at my build, you will see I just did a straight piece of molding.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the rail is awesome, but just didn't want you to get locked in with something you might not be comfortable with. I didn't do the traditional rail for a couple of reason;
> 
> 
> 1. as a beginner I didn't know if I had the skill to install it. Or how long it would take me to do.
> 
> 2. I was on a tight budget, and simply didn't want to spend the money
> 
> 3. I really wanted to keep the bar size proportional to the room. Not only in physical size, but also is appearance. So I wanted a "smaller" look.
> 
> 4. and lastly and perhaps most importantly, my buddy came into town unannounced for work and I wanted him to help me. So we had a day to plan, a day to shop and about 2 days build as much as we could. And doing the formal rail was really just not something we planned for...LOL




Thanks for the help, all great tips. I am unsure if I want to do the railing as I am a novice carpenter but I like the rails appearance. The biggest problem as I am basically planning an 8ft straight bar is that I will have to make one angle cut on the rail to make a peice on the end of the bar and that scares me a bit since I know the stuff is expensive and I dont want to mess it up. Also installing it since I am a novice kind of worries me a bit. I am just not totally sure how to build up the top to so that the rail sits on there right. But hopefully I will get it all figured out, my thing is I always wasnt ALL the answers before I start a project and most of the time that just isnt the way it works. So I may just have to jump in head first.


----------



## malbols

the bar rail was a piece of cake - i did mine and i have never done anything like this .


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/15146572
> 
> 
> the bar rail was a piece of cake - i did mine and i have never done anything like this .



Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?


----------



## buckrogers71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15152717
> 
> 
> Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?




I built mine up w/ 3 sheets of 3/4" ply (i think) I allowed for the bottom sheet to protrude out to support the bottom part of the rail. I marked out (w/ a small piece of scrap rail) the parts for the top and bottom and secured them w/ drywall screws. I will see if I have the measurements somewhere.


This was before I owned a digital camera so....


----------



## Tony_M

See this link:


http://www.tapeease.com/bar_rails_and_splices.htm 


The rail can be screwed from the underside and both glued and pin-nailed from the top. Your choice as to which you want you just have to build the substrate on the bar to accomodate the railing dimensions. For my bar I used the WD-AT-597 Bar rail. 3/4 '' plywood base, and a 7/8 '' thick solid mahogany top.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15152717
> 
> 
> Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?


----------



## HeyNow^

Here is a cut away of mine. You can see how it steps. I screwed mine in from the bottom.


----------



## malbols

There are a lot of diff bar rails . You need to know how you want to finish your bar top too .

I really think you need to find the bar rail you want and ask for a detail drawing and /or a sample pc.

The one thing you need to remember if you need to cut your rail on an angle is to prop up the rail in the saw so it sits in the saw as it would on the bar .Lots of discussions in earlier pages on this.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15155524
> 
> 
> Here is a cut away of mine. You can see how it steps. I screwed mine in from the bottom.



So is that just a single sheet of 3/4 plywood then the wood flooring? or am i missing something?


----------



## malbols

Heynow , you didn't have to cut your bar in half just to show a guy a cross section . LOL


----------



## elmalloc

its what he does out of the goodness of his heart - what any AVS forum member would do


----------



## HeyNow^









I have been wanting to get the ole chainsaw out...


Steve, yes one sheet.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15165407
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting to get the ole chainsaw out...
> 
> 
> Steve, yes one sheet.



Do you happen to have a website for the place you got your rail? I cant seem to find it and I want to see if I can get a sample peice.


----------



## malbols

Iusteve , somewhere in these pages is a discussion on where everyone got there rails - in case you want to check out other types . Or you could google " bar rails " for more info too.

Here is another thread in this forum for you to check out too . Lotsa discussion on bar rails

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post13499469


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/15169543
> 
> 
> Iusteve , somewhere in these pages is a discussion on where everyone got there rails - in case you want to check out other types . Or you could google " bar rails " for more info too.
> 
> Here is another thread in this forum for you to check out too . Lotsa discussion on bar rails
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post13499469



Thanks for the advice and I have done. I have contacted the folks at McDaniel hardwoods and they are sending me a sample peice so I have that to work with. I wonder if they would pre-cut the angle for me prior to shipping? I should ask that. Anyone know the answer? that would make my life easier as I hate to mess up an expensive peice of moulding.


----------



## HeyNow^

I believe that they would precut a 45 for you. They are a great group of folks.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

If all you have is one 90 degree angle in your bar, I certainly would ask that they pre-cut it for you. Sure would make your build go much easier.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15194883
> 
> 
> I believe that they would precut a 45 for you. They are a great group of folks.



I have been in contact via email with David Hoffman at McDaniels and he said they do not do mitre cuts







That part is the part that scares me silly. How about I have it shipped to you and you cut it for me....lol. Did you after you cut the two peices fill it with a wood putty or filler? If so what kind?


----------



## HeyNow^

Rent a mitre saw, put two pieces of 3/4 stock under and cut it! Or find a buddy that will cut it for you. Any wood putty will work. Relax, it's not that difficult.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Randy's right. You're overthinking it. It's not that hard...and it's not like it's the end of the world if you make a mistake...you can re-cut it depending upon where you are in your build.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15196631
> 
> 
> Rent a mitre saw, put two pieces of 3/4 stock under and cut it! Or find a buddy that will cut it for you. Any wood putty will work. Relax, it's not that difficult.



No I have a nice mitre saw ( I just finished a rather large deck here this summer) I just wasnt sure how to cut the rail and didnt want to mess it up since I know its a littl costly. You are right I am probably over thinking it.


So let me know when you will have it cut for me.....







LOL


----------



## elmalloc

any pics of hte deck


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/15203837
> 
> 
> any pics of hte deck



I took a ton but none uploaded to the pc yet. I will get to that soon. I am not sure this is where I should post them though. lol. I built it around a 24' above ground pool and attatched it to our existing deck with some slight modifications. all in all it went well for my first major project.


----------



## LSWHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15168991
> 
> 
> Do you happen to have a website for the place you got your rail? I cant seem to find it and I want to see if I can get a sample peice.



FYI - Got mine at the local LOWES store..... in oak and in 8 ft sections.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

My Lowes/HD didn't have it, but I got mine at local millyard. You might want to check locally first. Look in the yellow pages for "millwork" or even "lumber" and then call around asking for "bar rail" or "chicago bar rail." Good luck.


----------



## Iusteve

I appreciate all the help with the rails. I received the sample from McDaniels today and looking at it I think I can figure it out assuming I can figure out how to cut the angle in it. I assume if I take a peice of 3/4" plywood and put under the first lip then take a second peice and put on top of that one under the 2nd lip that will make it the angle I need then I will need to cut I believe a 45 degree angle (maybe Im wrong)to make the turn and go from there. I will ask more when I get to that point in the project.


Another question I have is regarding the Envirotex...I see alot posted here regarding the pour of the Etex. Has anyone poured it thicker than 1/8"? I was thinking that maybe a little thicker would make it more durable. I was thinking maybe 1/4" or a little more. Any ideas, suggestions or advice when it comes to that?


Again thanks for all the responses to all my "stupid" questions. I stumbled upon this forum by accident during a google search and now this site is quickly becoming my "bar building bible"


----------



## HeyNow^

Etex recommends no more than 1/8 inch PER POUR. You can build it up with several pours.


----------



## malbols

Sounds like you have it figured out as far as the stack up for the rail in the saw . Then it's just a matter of turnin the blade to 45 deg. (providing of course the bar is a perfect "L" (90 deg. corner) shape . Some saws don't have an accurate degree scale , so i would suggest cutting both angled pcs. , but leave a little stock on for adjustment . If your angles dont match up , adjust the blade a little and recut angles - if the angles are good - take the stock , if required , off the straight (square end)

All this goes easier if you make sure your bar itself is nice and square and level .


P.S. & the more level the bar and bartop , the less envirotech you'll need


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15222533
> 
> 
> Etex recommends no more than 1/8 inch PER POUR. You can build it up with several pours.



That is what I thought I read on here. I plan on making a few small pours as I havent used this stuff before. I just thought 1/8" seemed a little thin but it might just be me (the novice)


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/15224054
> 
> 
> Sounds like you have it figured out as far as the stack up for the rail in the saw . Then it's just a matter of turnin the blade to 45 deg. (providing of course the bar is a perfect "L" (90 deg. corner) shape . Some saws don't have an accurate degree scale , so i would suggest cutting both angled pcs. , but leave a little stock on for adjustment . If your angles dont match up , adjust the blade a little and recut angles - if the angles are good - take the stock , if required , off the straight (square end)
> 
> All this goes easier if you make sure your bar itself is nice and square and level .
> 
> 
> P.S. & the more level the bar and bartop , the less envirotech you'll need



Thanks for the good tips. I have a fairly good Delta(Industrial grade) 12" mitre saw it has pretty good angle measurements. I am hoping the deck turns out both square and level but I may be asking for too much here...lol.


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15220113
> 
> 
> Another question I have is regarding the Envirotex...I see alot posted here regarding the pour of the Etex. Has anyone poured it thicker than 1/8"? I was thinking that maybe a little thicker would make it more durable. I was thinking maybe 1/4" or a little more. Any ideas, suggestions or advice when it comes to that?



I would pour as close to if not slightly over the 1/8" thickness. It appears from several of us that if you pour less than that ~1/16" you get coverage issues. It's hard to gauge but imagine a liquid a little less than the consistency of honey and how you would try and cover it over your bar surface. That will give you some idea of how thick it should be to allow itself to level out correctly.


I poured two coats that combined is a little over 1/8". My first pour had issues that were resolved with the second one.


----------



## Iusteve

I couldnt find any answers on here so I cambe back to this thread to ask the knowledgeable folks. I am wanting to know the best and most effective way but also the cheapest way to attatch the 2x4 framed half wall front of my bar to the concrete floor?


I heard tapcons and also a ramset(that fires a .22 caliber shot into a set pin. Now I do not have a ramset but if I need one I suppose I will have to buck up and get one. Or can I get away with using tapcons? I have never used either and also am curious the length of tapcon or pin I will need for the ramset? Anyone that wants to pipe in PLEASE by all means do so?


----------



## buckrogers71

I dont see why you couldnt use the tapcons, but i think (and this is only my opinion) that the ramset would be better.

I think that you can rent that at a local home depot or instead of buying the gun, you could buy a remmington that you hit w/ a hammer and it will set it. Much cheaper than the other.


Good luck w/ whatever you do


----------



## chinadog

Or maybe rent one from Big Orange....


Bud


----------



## malbols

Tapcons are fairly cheap & easy - the store you buy them from can recommend a size - most Tapcons come with a drill bit also .


----------



## Requis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/15304384
> 
> 
> I couldnt find any answers on here so I cambe back to this thread to ask the knowledgeable folks. I am wanting to know the best and most effective way but also the cheapest way to attatch the 2x4 framed half wall front of my bar to the concrete floor?
> 
> 
> I heard tapcons and also a ramset(that fires a .22 caliber shot into a set pin. Now I do not have a ramset but if I need one I suppose I will have to buck up and get one. Or can I get away with using tapcons? I have never used either and also am curious the length of tapcon or pin I will need for the ramset? Anyone that wants to pipe in PLEASE by all means do so?



We used LePage Construction adhesive (Black Tube) to glue down aluminum floor runners or Aluminum studs (we have Radiant Heated floors and can't use tapcons) and then used a framing gun to attach 2x4s to the Aluminum worked very well and easy!


Good luck


Cheers,


Requis


----------



## JonyHouse

Just found this awesome thread. Can anyone here help me with the size and location of a bar for my small basement?


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Hmmm, don't know how big of a bar you want, but I'd try to take advantage of the existing/future WH location for plumbing purposes (a sink is a definite nice-to-have).


If I'm reading right, you have an existing WH under the stairwell that you're moving out to the other marked location. So maybe a wrap-around bar on that stairwell corner? That way you could take advantage of the stairwell for back-bar purposes.


----------



## Remax

Does anyone know where I can go to find Maple paneling locally? Home depot didnt carry maple. Im looking to do my bar in a light maple color to match my pool table.


----------



## str1der

You might want to look at cabinet grade maple plywood. You can get 1/4" if you want something thin. I used maple plywood but I will tell you that maple is a hard wood to stain even when you pre treat it.


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15490171
> 
> 
> You might want to look at cabinet grade maple plywood. You can get 1/4" if you want something thin. I used maple plywood but I will tell you that maple is a hard wood to stain even when you pre treat it.




Ive never worked with wood before, so im kind of nervous and excited. Ive also never stained wood as well. Any tips are appreciated. I dont see many maple bars. Especially light maple.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15491121
> 
> 
> Ive never worked with wood before, so im kind of nervous and excited. Ive also never stained wood as well. Any tips are appreciated. I dont see many maple bars. Especially light maple.



Here's some picks of mine. I used maple plywood for the front, top, and the rail.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...364&highlight= 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post14947217 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15012923


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15492252
> 
> 
> Here's some picks of mine. I used maple plywood for the front, top, and the rail.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...364&highlight=
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post14947217
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15012923



Looks nice. Im trying to match it to my pool table.











Dont mind the carpet. Its going to get changed this year after I paint the walls and ceiling.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15495967
> 
> 
> Looks nice. Im trying to match it to my pool table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont mind the carpet. Its going to get changed this year after I paint the walls and ceiling.




You should be able to match that since that basically looks like unstained maple. Try just putting a clear coat on the plywood.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JonyHouse* /forum/post/15373816
> 
> 
> Just found this awesome thread. Can anyone here help me with the size and location of a bar for my small basement?



I'd get out the blue painters tape. Try a couple of spots by outlining the design with tape to the actual size you want. You can then put chairs and such there to test.


----------



## timcole421

Hey guys! First post here...found the forum by a search for home bar ideas. I thought I'd share my own, but please understand this isn't something you'll see on cribs....this is my starter home, and my starter basement.


I had no plans or anything else, I just knew I wanted a bar in my basement theater room. I picked up twenty 2x4's, and started sawing and hammering and came up with this. It is covered in plain old paneling, and the top is granite tile that were on blowout at Depot. I built the entire bar for $130, but as you can see I still need to finish inside of it, and would really like to build an overhead. I see a few pages back, someone made a lighted liquor stand that is awesome.....if someone could post progress pics, that would be great. The entire room, as a matter of fact was done on a huge budget. Carpeting was put on the walls for its sound deadening properties, theater-ish appearance, and it was just the cheapest way to do it. Including building the screen and buying a used projector, I have about $1500 total into the entire room. The screen will get redone when I get a new projector which isn't 4:3 native. Again this isn't something for Cribs, but I am pretty proud.....


If anyone has any suggestions on how to finish the inside of the bar now, it would be greatly appreciated. I wasn't thinking that far ahead when I built this


----------



## timcole421

Oh yeah, I obviously still have electrical work to do too, but am waiting to decide what I should do for the overhead deal. Again, I know this isn't exactly a thread highlight, but for the money spent (did everything myself) I am extremely happy.


What I started with.....


----------



## Tony_M

Here are pics of the lighted liquor shelves I made for my bar.


Shelve was made with MDF, and 1/4 inch mahogany plywood. If I had any 1/2 inch plywood left I would have made it from that.


2 sheets of 1/4 inch plexiglass for the tops, and a cheap fluorescent light underneath.









[/IMG]


----------



## Tony_M

Tim


Finishing the inside of your bar, can be done by making simple shelfs of plywood or MDF, as I did with mine.


Rough back of bar
















[/IMG]


Back of Bar Completed


----------



## IrmoGamecoq

Your bar looks good, Tim! I have those same bar stools actually...a Wally world special?


----------



## Remax

I just bought the 2x4's for my bar yesterday. First time I ever bought 2x4's and it will be the first time ive worked with wood. Im really excited and kind of nervous. I guess you have start sometime right? I will take lots of pics along the way. I bought barplan.com plans, but im just using them for reference. My bar will be almost a U shape with a 45 at one end.


----------



## newhome

Hey New to AVS forums... I have gotten some really good ideas, but I am having trouble of my own... I have a limited amount of space in a small bedroom, that i would like to make into sort of a man cave... I havent got any Ideas on how to make it look decent. any tips or hints would help. thanks


----------



## Remax

Do you want a bar in it, because thats what this thread is for.


----------



## newhome

Yeah, Not a huge bar, but something decent sized... I was thinking of putting a back bar in thecloset where there are the sliding wood doors. as soon as I have the materials, I will start taking pictures...


----------



## darkdealer









Here are a few bar and home theaters I have recently completed. I can produce detailed drawings for fabrication if you are interested.



























__
https://flic.kr/p/3218132112
​


----------



## malbols

Wow - real nice work DarkDealer


----------



## darkdealer

Thanks, I enjoy working on A/V / home entertainment spaces.


----------



## newhome

Thats pretty cool, I Would Love to build something like that I just dont have a lot of space and I'm kind of working on a budget. I realy like the inset back bar in the second one down with the light colored barand the dark granit top... I'm pretty handy so I kind of wanted to do it myself (a sence of ownership i think)


----------



## johnny15

I know people are always looking for new ideas/elements to add to their bars and theaters, so I thought I'd post this link for anyone interested.

I've was looking around for some ideas for the day when I get some time/money to build my bar and came accross this site when looking for some corbels...

http://www.vandykes.com/category/corbels 


Not sure if that site has been posted any where before, but prices look good and they have a huge selection....


----------



## Remax

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.


Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?


My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.


Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.


----------



## Tony_M

You need to have a stable foundation for any tile install. Plywood (or OSB) with cement board on top (1/4 inch) then tile.


The groutlines can be as large (or small) as you like. There are minimum sizes for groutlines depending upon the grout you choose. Check the packaging.


Cannot comment on enviortex over the slate.


Birch should look simular in appearence to maple and birch is cheaper. You should get samples of the birch plywood and maple trim from the companies you want to do business with. Look them over, apply finish and see if the results meet your requirements.


For an overhang, the closer you get to 12 inches the better and more comfortable it will be to sit at the bar without banging your knees into the bar bottom. This number is not set in stone and many people have smaller overhangs and have made them work.


----------



## IrmoGamecoq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15721732
> 
> 
> Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?



I have one and I'm glad I do. It provides a nice place to store coasters, bottle openers, shot glasses, pint glasses etc without being on the bar itself. And, I have a rubber mat that catches the wet stuff just like the bar too.


----------



## johnny15




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15721732
> 
> 
> What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.
> 
> 
> Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?
> 
> 
> My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.
> 
> 
> Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.



Sounds like you stole my idea...







Link I made mention of this hear almost a year ago (just never got around to actually building my bar).


As Tony mentions though, I think you'll want to get your over hang as close to 12" as possible, especially with a 6-7" foot rest. I have a snack bar in my kitchen with a couple of stools and it's 10". It really is just a little too close and you can easily bump your knees on the wall.

Also, when I made mention of using slate and envirotex, someone made a comment of making sure to seal the tile and grout prior to pouring the envirotex. This is a good suggestion because slate and grout can be very porous and you'll want to avoid getting any air bubbles in the envirotex.


I still plan on doing this wit my bar some day, just need some more time/money, but if you want to test out the whole theory, that's fine with me!


----------



## str1der

I highly recommend a beer gutter if you plan on having a Kegerator


----------



## Remax

No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.


----------



## LSWHO

I also recommend the beer gutter.... You may not want a kegerator NOW but things may change down the road







unless you hate beer or something.....


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15735108
> 
> 
> No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.




What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's


----------



## johnny15




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15735542
> 
> 
> What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's



wonder if he's looking to do a paneling look on the front as well as an edge around the bar top for his tile???


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15735542
> 
> 
> What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's



No its definitely not for framing. Im new to working with wood but i know better than that. Im deciding on going with a design like this











All the trim would be 1x4 in maple, and the paneling behind it would be 1/4" maple plywood. The foot rest would be 1x6.


Or I was going to do something like this











Home depot has a special order of the wainscot with the upper and lower trim for $90 for a 4x8'. Its made for a wall, but I think it would look fine for a bar. Click the link to see it http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...b&ddkey=Search 


I think I like the first one the best though. To me it looks a little more modern and thats how I want my basement to look.


----------



## HeyNow^

I like both of them!


----------



## bjvjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/15721732
> 
> 
> What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.
> 
> 
> Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?
> 
> 
> My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.
> 
> 
> Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.



Maple and birch will look very very similar if you just put a varnish, oil or poly on it. Maple can have more interesting patterns with birdseye, quilted, and other variations which can look very interesting. These variations are actually aberrations in the wood. Maple also has a more 3-D look to it when you do not stain it. Maple does not stain well.


Maple is my favorite wood when it is not stained and we have it in our floors and furniture.


----------



## bjvjs

I like the top one much more. It will look great with a wiping poly or an oil on it.


It is more modern and sleek but if you like the traditional style better then the wainscotting one might be better suited for you.


----------



## str1der

I second the maple is hard to stain. That's what I used and it was a pain even when using a prestain


----------



## Remax

I got alot of work done last night on the bar. I have plywood on top, and bought all the maple plywood I need. Couple more questions though.


Since im doing slate tile I was told I need plywood, then cement board or hardibacker, and then the tile goes on top of that. Do I just screw the hardiback to the plywood, and then lay the tile on top? Ive been looking up directions online, but everything is for floors. I read i should use thinset between the plywood and hardibacker. Since nobody is walking on the bar, I figured installation might be different.


What should I use to cut the 1/4 maple plywood? I have a table saw, and a jig saw with fine blades. If I use a table saw, how do I keep the 4x8 sheet straight when I cut it? Should I cut it with the good side down?


----------



## Sdallnct

The most important think is to have an very stable, very level base for the tile. If I remember, I used thin set with a handful of screws. Then when you lay the tie, you will again use thin set so it will level everything out, fill in any spaces and attach the tiles.


BTW, I had not built anything like this before. I learned a lot.


I used granite tiles and it worked well. Tho I had to go out of town and wife surprised me by having our tile guy come out and install the tiles. I had done all the prep work. You can see the prep here;


----------



## hmmm5

i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hmmm5* /forum/post/15802641
> 
> 
> i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest



Very nice bar!


And you were smart in using the granite tiles only on the "back bar". I don't know if it is the black tiles I used, or bad tiles or what. But within 6 months I started getting water stains set in the tiles. Pretty much only on the bartenders side. But still. And yes I sealed and sealed the tile. And every time I clean them, I use the cleaner that has a sealer in it. I've gotten a little obsessive with coasters and napkins on the user/bar side, and so far nothing really bad on the user/bar side.


Had I to do over, I would have gone with engineered stone (Silestone). But obviously that would have sent the budget thru the roof. The tiles for my bar were right at $100, and like I said wife called our tile guy while I was working out of town and he installed for $200. So for $300, I'm pleased. Just wish I wasn't picking up those water stains.


----------



## Sdallnct

I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...











I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...


----------



## johnny15




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/15839323
> 
> 
> I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...



Looks pretty cool! Would love to see pics when it's done!


----------



## Sdallnct

For those with pendent type lighting, how high off the bar do you have the lighting? As you can see above, I decided on lighting, but in doing my initial measurement, I can't quite decide how high off the bar to make them.


Looking at photos it looks like most have gone about 3-4 feet from the top of the bar to the bottom of the light. Does that seem to be about right?


edit: I found this:


First we tackle height. Position a pendant with an “open bottom” too high; and you will have created one big eyesore! The same applies if you place a pendant fixture with “tapered-in bottom” too low. Rule – Keep the fixture at eyelevel, this will depend on average height of household occupants - but averages suggest that the optimum level lies about 70” up from the floor.

http://www.guide4home.com/dec-light/pendant.htm 


But I'd still love to hear thoughts.


----------



## hmmm5

funny i thought about this earlier today. first, i think the lights you found are cool looking. after that thought, my 2nd thought this AM was something like that would never work above our bar (posted up above) becuase our ceiling is on the lower side (about 7'2"). our first filter in selecting was a low profile as we wanted to hang high enough so that when seated at the bar, it would not obstruct your line of sight with anyone else. and even when standing it's not bad. so that meant a pretty small light. so most didn't fit that profile though that can help when choosing too (but not when searching). not sure what that means from a measurement point of view re your question (i.e., i'm too lazy right now to go down and measure) but that at least points out an important consideration i think.


----------



## hmmm5

ours our at 68" inches (from floor to bottom of glass fixture)


----------



## Sdallnct

Ahh...certainly a good point! You don't want to block any views. And I do have a TV in the bar. So that is something to think about. My ceiling is sloped. So I'll have to adjust each of the lengths of the lights. I'll have to play around a bit.


----------



## scaesare

Bottom of fixture such that you don't see the actual bulb when seated:


----------



## AdamPelly

I am currently finishing my basement and am putting a bar in. My first question (I will probably have many) is this.... I want to put some cabinets and shelving units under the bar. Is this something I need to have prior to framing the exterior and top or can the cabinetry be put in after it is framed up?


Thanks


Pelly


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scaesare* /forum/post/15852854
> 
> 
> Bottom of fixture such that you don't see the actual bulb when seated:



Nice look!


I can't go that low. The track lighting pendants only have a 4.5 foot cord. Based on talk here and the length of the cord, I have one light that is going to hang from the highest point on the ceiling. So I'll use the full length of the cord on that one and go from them. I can always shorten, but I don't think I would be able to lengthen. But maybe. I'll have to get the fixtures and check it out.


But I had thought about that "seeing the bulb" thing. And these fixtures can take those sort of candle looking bulbs. So it won't be a standard bulb.


edit, I see you went with track lighting and based on those covers I think I saw those at Lowes as well. I really like you went with black. I was thinking going with white since ceiling is white, but I might reconsider that. I really like the look of yours.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AdamPelly* /forum/post/15855128
> 
> 
> I am currently finishing my basement and am putting a bar in. My first question (I will probably have many) is this.... I want to put some cabinets and shelving units under the bar. Is this something I need to have prior to framing the exterior and top or can the cabinetry be put in after it is framed up?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pelly



Check out my build (I started this thread and my photos start on page 2).


I thought the same thing about shelving. I ended up going to a cabinet supply company and bought builders grade vanity cabinets. Doors and drawers and then I added shelving. Worked out well.


If you look thru this thread you will see some did stick build and other did cabinets and added to it.


To specifically answer your question, you could do it a couple of ways depending on what your skill level is, your comfortable with and your budget;


You could still build and put shelving in from the beginning

You could use cabinets as your base and then you will have doors, drawers and shelves

Or you could build a shell and add shelves later.


It is your build after all so you can plan it however you want and the way you want.


----------



## scaesare




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/15855745
> 
> 
> Nice look!
> 
> 
> I can't go that low. The track lighting pendants only have a 4.5 foot cord. Based on talk here and the length of the cord, I have one light that is going to hang from the highest point on the ceiling. So I'll use the full length of the cord on that one and go from them. I can always shorten, but I don't think I would be able to lengthen. But maybe. I'll have to get the fixtures and check it out.
> 
> 
> But I had thought about that "seeing the bulb" thing. And these fixtures can take those sort of candle looking bulbs. So it won't be a standard bulb.
> 
> 
> edit, I see you went with track lighting and based on those covers I think I saw those at Lowes as well. I really like you went with black. I was thinking going with white since ceiling is white, but I might reconsider that. I really like the look of yours.



Thanks!


The pendants I bought online actually had baseplates to attach to a ceiling electrical box. I bought the black track online from a different vendor, and they sold just the "pendant base" unitis that plugged in to the track along with a hole and grommet to feed the pendant wire thru. I jut off the standard bases the pendants came with and fitted the bases to the pendants to use with the track.


I think if you have a slanted ceiling, you might want to try and see if you can replace the cable on the "higher" one so that they end up matching at the same height over your bar?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scaesare* /forum/post/15862680
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> The pendants I bought online actually had baseplates to attach to a ceiling electrical box. I bought the black track online from a different vendor, and they sold just the "pendant base" unitis that plugged in to the track along with a hole and grommet to feed the pendant wire thru. I jut off the standard bases the pendants came with and fitted the bases to the pendants to use with the track.
> 
> 
> I think if you have a slanted ceiling, you might want to try and see if you can replace the cable on the "higher" one so that they end up matching at the same height over your bar?




Oh yea...they will all be the same height. I'll start with the highest point of the ceiling and shorten the cords of each one as I go down the ceiling.


----------



## Remax

I realized 1/2 osb isnt going to cut it for the bar top. It has a little flex on the overhang so I just had 3/4" delivered to my house. I found maple bar rail locally for $13.50 per foot. I had to buy a couple extra feet because he wouldnt cut them, but it gives me quite a few practice cuts. Everything is coming together nicely. Im still going with 6"x6" slate tile with envirotex over the top. My deadline is March 20th (moms b-day) and were having the family over. Any tips for making straight cuts on osb? Im thinking of using a circular saw with 1x4 clamped down on the plywood as a guide. I dont see how I could run a sheet of osb through my table saw and keeping a straight cut. Its extremely heavy and big. Any tips are appreciated, because im going to work on it tonight.


----------



## str1der

Well have made some progress on the back bar shelves. I did some sanding and prestain last night. Once I finish with the staining I'll be adding glass racks.


----------



## str1der

Well I finsihed the back bar. Although I may still add some glass racks on the side cabinets. Thanks for the tips on the backbar Heynow


----------



## bass addict

That turned out great!


----------



## HeyNow^

Very classy looking. Can you share how you did the trim on the front of your bar?


Nice work.


----------



## jerrodshook

That looks good. Drink up!


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15923724
> 
> 
> Very classy looking. Can you share how you did the trim on the front of your bar?
> 
> 
> Nice work.



Thanks guys.


Which trim are you referring to?


----------



## HeyNow^

The trim on the front facing of your bar. The area in front of your stools.


----------



## LSWHO

str1der - very nicely done, love the look. What color stain did you use?

With the sink to the far left do you feel like you have enough room or would you change it if you had to do it over again?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LSWHO* /forum/post/15927210
> 
> 
> str1der - very nicely done, love the look. What color stain did you use?
> 
> With the sink to the far left do you feel like you have enough room or would you change it if you had to do it over again?



I have no problem with room. One of the driving factors was that's where my rough in was but really I wanted over next to the wall. I find that it's mostly used for pouring things out and washing a glass here and there. The other thing is I wouldn't want the sink dividing up my counter space.


The stain was dictated by the finished lower cabinets I bought. It's kind of a cross between maple and cherry. I took a piece into Sherwin William's and a piece of the wood I was using and they matched the color.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15926836
> 
> 
> The trim on the front facing of your bar. The area in front of your stools.



Well along the bottom I used a normal baseboard molding with some of those corner blocks. Then from there I ran some fluted trim (like on a door frame) and cut it to fit against the bottom of the corbels. I then just created a false raised panel look by using picture frame type trim and simply making miter cut frames. Then I bought the grape plaque pieces for the center. Here are a few pics of the earlier stages.


----------



## HeyNow^

Thanks for posting the pics. I probably missed them the last time you posted or I'm having a senior moment or both. Very nice job, you should be proud.


----------



## mknoebel

STR1DER - that looks great! Well done! Do you happen to have any pictures from inside the bar looking out? I'm wondering what it looks like inside. Did you use cabinets all around then frame out the taller bar top next to them??


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mknoebel* /forum/post/15933652
> 
> 
> STR1DER - that looks great! Well done! Do you happen to have any pictures from inside the bar looking out? I'm wondering what it looks like inside. Did you use cabinets all around then frame out the taller bar top next to them??




Here's a few pics of the inside


----------



## cjrivera

Great job str1der. Your bar looks great.


----------



## mknoebel

Thanks for posting those. Looks fantastic!


----------



## malbols

- nice job

- where do you pick up the wine glass racks ? Thnx


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/15936689
> 
> 
> - nice job
> 
> - where do you pick up the wine glass racks ? Thnx



Got them on ebay from AB Resteraunt supply. Cost $4.99 each.


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mknoebel* /forum/post/15934987
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting those. Looks fantastic!




No problem. Are you looking at using cabinets in your build?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15932082
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting the pics. I probably missed them the last time you posted or I'm having a senior moment or both. Very nice job, you should be proud.




No problem. This thread has gotten huge. Your bar looks great. Are you thinking of dressing up the front trim?


----------



## mknoebel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15938078
> 
> 
> No problem. Are you looking at using cabinets in your build?



Yes I am. Especially after seeing yours!









Do you have thoughts or advise on using cabinets?


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *str1der* /forum/post/15938087
> 
> 
> No problem. This thread has gotten huge. Your bar looks great. Are you thinking of dressing up the front trim?



Thanks. Yes, I have been thinking of a major overhaul after seeing so many great bar examples. Never done, huh?


----------



## str1der




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/15938693
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes, I have been thinking of a major overhaul after seeing so many great bar examples. Never done, huh?



SsssssHhhhhhhhhh! my wife is listening.


----------



## Sdallnct

Not great pics. They don't do them justice. I don't know why they look yellow near the top in the photos. Not that way in reality.


I ended up exactly 30" from the bar top and seemed to work well. Very happy with the results. I've added two spot lights to highlight some of the stuff on the walls. I'll add at least one more, maybe two.


----------



## Remax

Any recommendations for using envirotex? I should be pouring it next weekend over slate tile. Im sealing the slate once before grout and once after. How long does it take thin pours to fully cure?


----------



## HeyNow^

It is temp sensitive. The warmer the ambient area the faster it sets up. Check out the Etex website for the exact times for curing.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/16001385
> 
> 
> Any recommendations for using envirotex? I should be pouring it next weekend over slate tile. Im sealing the slate once before grout and once after. How long does it take thin pours to fully cure?



Any pics of the current progress? Love to see what you have got done.


----------



## Iusteve

Heres the etex pouring instructions....

http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envinstr.htm


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/16001713
> 
> 
> Any pics of the current progress? Love to see what you have got done.



I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.


Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/16012341
> 
> 
> I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.
> 
> 
> Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?



My local Menards carries the gallons for around $53....try there for sure as Michaels, Joannes etc only usually carry 32oz kits. I would love to see some pics or start a thread for all of us to see.


----------



## TommyHolly

I'm currently going over the final drawings for my bar in my basement as we speak. I have a neighbor who is a self-employed carpenter who just makes whatever I draw. As long as I give him measurements for things, he follows directions exactly.


My bar will have a "piano" shaped frame. (You know those upright pianos right?) The lower portion will basically be just a rectangle box that I slide in a front-vented bar refridgerator and ice maker and some drawers. That gets capped by a slab of granite 36" high with a hole cut in the middle for a sink. Then 1 foot above on top of that sits another slightly smaller piece of granite for the actual bar part that people sit up against.


From the side, the frame looks like an upright piano only with a lower slab of granite on the first tier (where the piano's keys would be) and another one at the very top that hangs over 6 inches towards the guest's side. That creates a 1 foot high space underneath the top tier for room for glasses and such that is hidden from view from the guest side.


Because I'm speanding all my money currently getting the theatre set up, It won't be finished for about 3 months I'd say?


----------



## johnny15




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Remax* /forum/post/16012341
> 
> 
> I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.
> 
> 
> Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?



yeah, I'd be interested to see some pics too!! I'm still interested in doing this as well, so I'm very curious how it's going to turn out.


Hopefully it goes well!


----------



## mknoebel

I'm in the process of re-doing my bar. So far I have laid down some 36 inch cabinets in the general shape that the bar will be (see pic below). The main difference from the picture is I'm going to angle the cabinets that are closest a little more towards the back wall. Then we are going to put a 24 inch wide top (maybe granite) on top of the cabinets.


For the bar, I am going to frame out so that the bar top will be 42 inches tall after the top is put on. I have a question on how to best do that. Do I just need to have it one 2 x 4 wide attached to the cabinets? Or should I make a small (maybe 6 inch wide) box in front of the cabinets for added stability?


Also, I'm doing 24 inch wide granite on top of the cabinets, but I shouldn't need it that wide on the bar top, right? Is 12 inches enough? 18??


----------



## mknoebel

Here's a picture of what we have to far:


----------



## Sdallnct

Nice layout. Are you putting in a sink?


----------



## mknoebel

Thanks!


We are not doing a sink -- at least for now. If we decide later on to add one it will be a back bar project later on.


----------



## dennisb643

Those of you who have done your own bar and used traditional bar moulding...is there much of a difference between the smaller 5" and the larger 6 3/4" moulding?


----------



## HeyNow^

Perhaps the profile? Do you have pics of the railing you are talking about?


----------



## malbols

So , here ya go . Some pics of my almost finished bar ( i used the smaller bar rail)


----------



## Sdallnct

Nice...I love the rock wall with the cut outs for shelving. That is "real" rock is it?


----------



## mknoebel

malbols,


Your bar looks great! Love the brick wall.


----------



## malbols

Thanks guys .

Actually the rock is a man made concrete product called ledge rock . Let me assure you though it sure does look like the real thing .


----------



## Sdallnct

Oh it looks great! I didn't mean to say it didn't. If it was real brick I can only imagine what it would take to put that shelving in!


It looks awesome!!


I'm thinking of putting some sort of concrete or thin veneer in my bar!!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/16146371
> 
> 
> Thanks guys .
> 
> Actually the rock is a man made concrete product called ledge rock . Let me assure you though it sure does look like the real thing .


----------



## malbols

FYI - the stone is called ledge rock - very easy to install - it's actually a concrete manufactured stone . I think it cost me about $500.00 Canadian .

(I hear it's much cheaper stateside)to buy , including the mortar . The stone varies in thickness of course to give a natural look , but anywhere from 1 " - 2" thk .

For any cuts , i mounted a (concrete) 10" cutoff wheel to my tablesaw (run dry of course , no water)


----------



## mknoebel

Basement project still has a little bit of work to go, but the bar is shaping up! Here are a couple of pictures of what we've done...






























I am very happy with the way it turned out... except one thing. They cut a hole for the kegerator tower, but now it sits pretty low.












Anyone have thoughts on how I could raise up the tower a little bit??


----------



## Tony_M

Can you complain enough to get a new granite top?


I think you will have to raise the whole kegerator, or better yet install some sort of decorative wood to cover the hole in the granite and then install the tower directly to it. If you cannot get them to make this right.


Most installs, that I have seen, you would take the tower off of the kegerator, cut the hole in the top large enough for the beer line, and then attach the tower to the countertop. That would be my first choice.


Looks like the hole was cut large enough to take off the tower for the install.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tony_M* /forum/post/16332470
> 
> 
> Can you complain enough to get a new granite top?
> 
> 
> I think you will have to raise the whole kegerator, or better yet install some sort of decorative wood to cover the hole in the granite and then install the tower directly to it. If you cannot get them to make this right.
> 
> 
> Most installs, that I have seen, you would take the tower off of the kegerator, cut the hole in the top large enough for the beer line, and then attach the tower to the countertop. That would be my first choice.
> 
> 
> Looks like the hole was cut large enough to take off the tower for the install.



+1


He is right the granite should have been cut with a hole for the beer lines and possibly some sort of insulation to keep beer flow cool and then the tower mounted to the granite so that there is more room under the tap to pour a beer.

Option #1--New granite top, cut right

Option #2--Some sort of filler for the large hole (wood, granite etc) and then a smaller hole for just the beer lines.

Optin #3--Get the largest keg you can fit in the kegerator, drink til empty and you wont care about the tower or the hole

















On a side note have you plugged in and used that beverage center yet? The reason I ask is that I purchased that same one a few months back but its still sitting unused and I was curious if its performance was good. I have only turned mine on and set both sides at 36 to see if it got down to it and it did but I didnt know if it stayed there, ran too loud, too hot or any other issues and hoped you could shed some light


----------



## mknoebel

#3 will happen for sure! #1 won't happen -- my wife MAY have mentioned that that's how we wanted it... that part is unclear right now. #2 may be what we end up doing.


The beverage cooler keeps things nice and cold. It's a little loud, but I don't find it so loud that it bothers me. Seems pretty nice.


----------



## Iusteve

Also maybe you can replace that tower with a taller one since one of your issues is it being too low. Then after you get a taller tower you will still have to do option #2 and fill that hole somehow. Good luck and keep us posted


----------



## HeyNow^

Take the tower off the kegerator and mount it directly on the granite. Take a pvc pipe and slip it in the granite hole insulate it. Then with a slab/wood/whatever spacer to attach the draft arm to and glue it to the granite.


----------



## Sdallnct

I feel like doing something else to my bar. But since adding the lights, I really don't need to do anything...LOL....


I've added shelving to two of three windows. I think I will add to the smaller window, but will have to plan that a little. Maybe redo some trim work.


----------



## mknoebel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/16337528
> 
> 
> Take the tower off the kegerator and mount it directly on the granite. Take a pvc pipe and slip it in the granite hole insulate it. Then with a slab/wood/whatever spacer to attach the draft arm to and glue it to the granite.



You mean fill the cut hole in the granite with either wood or granite. Drill a hole in the middle of it for the hose. Then glue the tower to whatever I use to fill the hole (granite or wood)??


----------



## HeyNow^

No,


If it were me, I would take the tower off the kegerator, put a sleeve in the granite hole using PVC pipe filled with insulation pushed to the kegerator and flush with the granite counter top, then run your beer hose back into the kegerator and mount the beer draft arm to the granite counter top. If the hole is too large, then put a piece of granite or other material and glue it to the granite top and drill a hole in it to run your hose back down into the kegerator.....


Hard to describe...hope you understand.


----------



## mknoebel

I think I get what you are saying Randy. Thanks for the help.


----------



## jagelas

I'd like to share


----------



## cfmustang

I like it! My original idea was to go with glass block, but decided against it once the wife declared that the bar must be movable.


----------



## Iusteve

I like it as well. I would like to see some more pics if you dont mind though. Maybe some of behind the bar and what you have done with that area as well as some details of the work. Did you mortar these blocks together etc?


----------



## jagelas

 http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246740 

I only have a few pictures from other side, took it when I was still working on it. I,ll Post more as soon as I get my camera back from repair shop.

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246928 


One more

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246975 


I also have fridge behind bar.


----------



## jagelas

What did I do wrong inserting pictures?


----------



## Remax

You didnt use img tags. Copy the img code from photobucket with the tags in front of it and after it.


----------



## Iusteve

Looks nice. Any shots from down lower so we can see the fridge as well as the way the bar was constructed? Are the blocks mortared?


----------



## jagelas

I only used clear silicone, it looks better. Plus I used some aluminum rods to tie them together.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jagelas* /forum/post/17064941
> 
> 
> I only used clear silicone, it looks better. Plus I used some aluminum rods to tie them together.



All you used is silicone to attatch them? Is the bar front sturdy?? Any more pics?? We all love pics on this site trust me. The more details and pics the better. I am very intrigued about this glass block front as I considered it at the start of my build


----------



## jagelas

Yes, silicone only. Bar feels strong, seems look better then with any color mortar. I was going to use mortar, but when I was buying blocks, guy told me about silicone, then I looked it up on line and did it. Between rows I used spacers, plastic, special for glass block. Like I said earlier, my camera is in repair shop, after camping, lense broke







They said it will take about two weeks, so after that I'll post more pictures of complette bar.


----------



## jagelas











I wanted to do L shape, but my wife won....










Took me about 5 days to do block only, one row at the time.









I was thinking about laminate counter top, but decided to make it myself, using plywood.



























Bar is strong, you can sit on it (tested







)


----------



## Iusteve

Wow you did an awesome job at the radius and making the bar top similar to the radius of the block. It looks amazing. I agree with the silicone I just wouldnt of thought to do it. It looks great. As for the bar top how did you finish it. I see the plywood, where did you go from there?


----------



## jagelas

I stained top and clear coted, maybe 7 times, but my plans are to do envirotex. I red a lot about it, but did not get to it yet. Plus, I have plans and ideas for some bar shelves, with lights inside, but no time to work on it.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jagelas* /forum/post/17085525
> 
> 
> I stained top and clear coted, maybe 7 times, but my plans are to do envirotex. I red a lot about it, but did not get to it yet. Plus, I have plans and ideas for some bar shelves, with lights inside, but no time to work on it.



Do the envirotex. I did the drip tray on mine already and its really easy to use. I have not done the entire top yet but that is in the plans for the near future. But the stuff is really easy to work with.


----------



## JAMDLP

Hi, I'm working on finishing my basement and I got to a point where anxiety is setting in. The bathroom is definitely going to be bigger than I expected, which means its eating into other space, most notably the bar area. The combination of bigger bathroom, and the support pole is making for an awkward design for the bar.


Original plans had a straight bar going from the wall to the pole. The front of the bar would begin right next to the built-in shelving space. The bigger bathroom means there is less space between the bathroom wall and the shelving space. That space is 48". The plan now is to have the bar be 22" in depth and 26" of walk space behind. Just not sure that is enough. Also, the length of the bar may extend out past the pole. It is 68" from wall to pole and 30" from pole to end of bathroom wall. The pole could end up being right in middle of the bar.


Do you think the total depth of 22" is enough? Is 26" of walk space enough?


I'd love to hear other design ideas. I wanted to keep the bar where it is, as opposed to in front of the shelving, because I wanted to use that floor space for a poker table.

http://picasaweb.google.com/JAMDLP79...30549040666914


----------



## malbols

Just keep in mind you'd probably want 9" to 12" bartop overhang , so minus that from your 22" and you'll have an idea of the size of your cabinets or shelving underneath . You could also use your wall studs behind the bar to incoorperate shelving also . that's what i did .( a place for your bottles etc.)

http://img24.imageshack.us/i/img0688i.jpg/ 


26" behind the bar should be OK


----------



## misterkit

What is everyone using for lighting? Im looking for ideas for lighting the bar top and back bar areas. Puck Lights? Xenon or Halogen?


----------



## malbols

I personally used surface mount puck lights on a dimmer for my back wall liquor shelf lighting & halogen pot lights above my bar ( on a dimmer also).

So many options out there though . Rope lighting is another option too .


----------



## misterkit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/17318472
> 
> 
> I personally used surface mount puck lights on a dimmer for my back wall liquor shelf lighting & halogen pot lights above my bar ( on a dimmer also).
> 
> So many options out there though . Rope lighting is another option too .




For your puck lights, where did you mount the transformer? What size pot lights are you using?


----------



## malbols

No transformer - they are 120V

the pot lights are 3 or 4" i think


----------



## misterkit

For you guys using the enviro-tex, has anyone experienced any problems with scratching or yellowing of the surface? How does it hold up to hot pans/mugs/etc?


Has anyone used Crystal Sheen or Ultra-Glo?


----------



## malbols

There shouldn't be yellowing issues . Scratches can be waxed or compounded out . As extra protection you can put a coat of wax on the Etex .

You can't put hot pans on the surface . Also if anything heavy is placed on the surface you will get some deformation of the surface . What's good though is once the object is moved , eventually the surface will rebound back to where it was . (don't worry the surface is not soft )


----------



## misterkit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/17426522
> 
> 
> There shouldn't be yellowing issues . Scratches can be waxed or compounded out . As extra protection you can put a coat of wax on the Etex .
> 
> You can't put hot pans on the surface . Also if anything heavy is placed on the surface you will get some deformation of the surface . What's good though is once the object is moved , eventually the surface will rebound back to where it was . (don't worry the surface is not soft )



Thanks - I emailed the company and asked about the etex verses the crystal sheen. They seemed to recommended the crystal sheen and ultra glo for commercial purposes and etex for home. However when I commented on that they could be used for either purpose. I guess the problem I have with the company is that they sell 3 very similar products (the descriptions are all similar) and there is no clear (no pun intended) way to tell which is better for a bar application. Obviously I am worried about scratching and wear and tear. This stuff isnt cheap and I would think not easy to replace/change.


The customer rep did mention that there could be some yellowing with direct sunlight and does not handle heat well above 130 degrees (coffee heat).


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterkit* /forum/post/17428753
> 
> 
> Thanks - I emailed the company and asked about the etex verses the crystal sheen. They seemed to recommended the crystal sheen and ultra glo for commercial purposes and etex for home. However when I commented on that they could be used for either purpose. I guess the problem I have with the company is that they sell 3 very similar products (the descriptions are all similar) and there is no clear (no pun intended) way to tell which is better for a bar application. Obviously I am worried about scratching and wear and tear. This stuff isnt cheap and I would think not easy to replace/change.
> 
> 
> The customer rep did mention that there could be some yellowing with direct sunlight and does not handle heat well above 130 degrees (coffee heat).



I can not comment on the wear of the stuff as I have only had mine down a few months and have not used the bar yet but as for the heat they specifically state in the directions not to place hot pans, cups etc on it. So my suggestion is simply use a coaster for your coffee cup and you should be fine. I would assume that the commercial grade stuff may be a little more durable but then again there are alot of companies that use multiple packages for one product in order to reach multiple markets.


P.S. I used the etex!!


----------



## misterkit

I dont think so much that its ME putting down the hot cup, but the drunks that dont know any better ;-). You do bring up a good point though, same product, different packaging. Its something to look in to.


----------



## Falkor1

Hello All -


New member here currently building an 8' straight bar and back mirror/shelves/lighted/display type thing.


This is great, you guys all ROCK! Everyone's bar looks awesome!


My question is this:

If I were to Envirotex my bar top, then down the road wanted to add to the bar, say make it an "L" or "U" sape, would I be able to just pour each addition and have it blend/match or would I need to srip it down (the straight piece) and start the finishing from scratch?


Thanks,


Sean


----------



## malbols

hmmm - you could put a wood strip between the two bars & pour the bar addition seperately . or if you dont want to see the strip , you could pour the bar addition , allowing enough etex to flow over the original etex surface ( lightly sanded) to provide a seamless surface . Just make sure the bar addition is tied in securely to the original bar .


----------



## SiEsMi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/7044175
> 
> 
> Still a work in progress, but I used dimensional lumber and plywood and came up with this;
> 
> 
> 
> This bar is a single plywood thickness attached to the existing sink cabinet. Remove two small bolts and I can slide the bar (via nylon slides attached to the bottom) anywhere in the room to move items in and out of the door on the right.



Very nice


----------



## Javatime

Very nice. Any updated pics?


----------



## le19555

Just put in "wetbar plans" in the ebay search box or use the link below:


The seller name is emrixdistributors.


These are great plans made by someone who built his own bar. I like that they are simple and have photos of each step. Customizable too.


----------



## Sdallnct

Anyone have step by step directions for building a top with that poured epoxy stuff?


I think I want to replace my little bistro side table I use in my bar. The table sits in a corner, so I'm thinking of building one myself a corner table unit. I could make it bigger yet actually take up less space.


And I want to either use some sort of broken tile pieces or yes, perhaps the stereo typical beer bottle tops for the surface.


I know several people did this with their bar tops, so I thought I'd bump an old thread rather than start a new one...


Thanks


----------



## Ratlock1

I used envirotex last summer on my bar top. There was a rather detailed thread here with do's and dont's that was very spot on accurate. It's a must find and read before you attempt to pour.


----------



## malbols

Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .

Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.

Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).

Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .

Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487


----------



## Remax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/20008654
> 
> 
> Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
> 
> Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
> 
> Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
> 
> Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
> 
> Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487



Blow dryer doesnt work. Hot air doesn't pop bubbles. Carbon dioxide does so either use your breath or a propane torch.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/20008654
> 
> 
> Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
> 
> Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
> 
> Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
> 
> Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
> 
> Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487



Oh yea...still around...lol


Thanks for the information. And yea, I continue to add things to bar. I added shelving to a 3rd window to hold my pint glasses. Works well.


Oh and don't think I mentioned it. But a pic of my bar ended up in the local paper! A friend of a friend writes for the local paper and wanted to do an article on "Man Caves". She interviewed me by phone mainly talking about my theater room. But when she asked about the location in the house I said "right down a very short hall to my bar I also built". In the article she got the size wrong but otherwise was nice. They sent a photographer out who took pics of bar and theater and guess they decided the bar better for the article.


----------



## paz68123

Hi All,


Brand new member....been reading these posts for hours. Awesome job to those who can and did do it themselves! We are finishing the basement and by we, I mean a contractor. We bought cabinets for the 'bar' and my greatest fear is it will look like a kitchen...nooooooo!!


The cabinets are cherry with a burgundy stain.

We've got a wine rack on the back wall with a small fridge & wine fridge underneath. There will also be a keg fridge next to the sink.


My contractor insists, and my wife agrees, that formica (dark & shiny) will look good and hold up well for all three counter tops--back wall, bartender side of the bar, and top bar. Agree? Disagree? I want the top-bar counter top to be wood but, as I have no skill, have to go with what the contractor will do in our budget.


I'm also quite worried about the bar rail. The contractor is a carpenter by trade so he says he will make it for us no problem and has done them before. If you can picture burgundy colored cabinets, an almost black counter top, what color would you make the bar rail? The floor is a dark tile so I was thinking just a golden oak to really contrast off all the dark in the bar area?

*Thanks* for any help and ideas. IF it worked, there should be jpegs of the general layout of the design but have no real pics yet....we're just starting the project so I'm hoping for some ideas before it's too late!!


REALLY worried this is going to look like a kitchen.

What can I do to make sure that it doesn't?

*THANKS*!!


----------



## tank3467




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paz68123* /forum/post/20112558
> 
> 
> 
> REALLY worried this is going to look like a kitchen.
> 
> What can I do to make sure that it doesn't?
> 
> *THANKS*!!



First thing you do is tell the contractor how you want things done not have him *insist* on how they are done. Second thing is to tell the wife this is your thing and you are making the decisions. The contractor will probably be much easier than the wife.


Honestly, when doing a project make sure you do it how you want the first time. I agree with you on wood bar top, I just dont like the idea of formica, but thats a personal opinion. The bar top and back bar are what most people see so if you have to cut out money in other places to make the bar top how you want it. Unless your going with a unique wood I doubt it should cost much more than formica. I used red wood for my bar top, probably cost about 30 dollars for wood and then sealed with envirotex (top of page 11 of this thread are pics) Its five years old now and looks exactly the same.


I would also suggest putting the keg tap on the bar top if possible. I added one to my bar and I love having it on the bar top. Everyone seems to like the look.


Last thing, Good luck!

Remember that it will become the focal point anytime you have people over so make how you want it.


----------



## NightStalker30

Hi all - long time/first time...


Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.


I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.


I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## brian12566

I realize that I am late to the party on this thread. I did not realize it until half way through reading the whole thread when I looked at the date & time stamp. Whoops. I am guessing your bar might even be built by now.


My two cents on contractors & wives:As far as contractors go, I invited him into my house in the first place to complete some task I do not know how to do or licensed to do. I do bear in mind those add on projects that some contractors try to add.

The wife actually has some good design ideas and I have incorporated some of hers into the build. Some of her ideas would have changed the bar into a living room so I ignored those.









CLICK HERE to check out my build thread.


----------



## paz68123

*Thanks Tank & Brian.*


The wife and I had a talk and she _agreed_ we need a wood-top bar! She is the best and even had the same talk with our contractor while I was at work. He is now on board too.


So, now that is settled.....what wood should we use for the top? Our cabinets will be cherry wood, finished in a reddish-burgundy stain (not done yet).


I think I would like either a dark wood bar top and light wood bar rail all just finished in natural/epoxy. Or vice-versa. Any suggestions on what would go well with the cabinets described but still stand out? Any woods to avoid all together?


The main problem for the bar top will be size. It is a simple, straight bar, but the bar top itself will be 103" long...that is certain and is not changing.

I know, should have made it and even 8'...too late now, as all the cabinets are ordered.


I'm checking local wood shops & online for wood species and was hoping to find something 12" -15" wide and one single piece 9ft long. Plywood is fine, but my contractor and I also talked about a veneer. Sounds like we might actually be able to find veneer in those dimensions, but not plywood. Ideas? Suggestions? THANKS!!


Also, is our thinking correct for the width of the bar top? Thinking 12" - 15" wide just for the bar-top, then the drip tray xxx and the bar rail xxx. Will that give us enough leg room not to knee/kick the wall?

*You guys are awesome.* If you need to remember what the bar design looks like, see the post about 3 up from this one.


THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!


----------



## brian12566

You are welcome! I used tongue and groove wood floor for my bartop with a bar rail from Rockler's. While installing the tongue and groove I put a bead of caulking on the "tongue" part. When pressed together, the caulk would come up between the two boards and I would scrape the excess off. By doing this, I hoped to provide a little protection so when spills occur on the bar and go between the boards, the caulk will provide protection. I do not think my bar build thread has good pictures of the bartop being built, but I do have them. If you are interested, let me know.


----------



## Javatime




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paz68123* /forum/post/20122672
> 
> 
> Also, is our thinking correct for the width of the bar top? Thinking 12" - 15" wide just for the bar-top, then the drip tray xxx and the bar rail xxx. Will that give us enough leg room not to knee/kick the wall?



I have about 12 1/2" of knee room and it's plenty of room while seated. My total bar top is 25" which includes a 5" rail, 16" top, and 4" drip tray.


----------



## brian12566




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brian12566* /forum/post/20123575
> 
> 
> You are welcome! I used tongue and groove wood floor for my bartop with a bar rail from Rockler's. While installing the tongue and groove I put a bead of caulking on the "tongue" part. When pressed together, the caulk would come up between the two boards and I would scrape the excess off. By doing this, I hoped to provide a little protection so when spills occur on the bar and go between the boards, the caulk will provide protection. I do not think my bar build thread has good pictures of the bartop being built, but I do have them. If you are interested, let me know.



I meant Silicone, not caulk. I am a dumbass.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NightStalker30* /forum/post/20118145
> 
> 
> Hi all - long time/first time...
> 
> 
> Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.
> 
> 
> I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.
> 
> 
> I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Well....


1st...like my theater room, we use our bar a LOT more than I every imagined. It is the place we go when we have friends or family over. In addition, I'll spend morning having coffee, reading the paper in there. It was/is a fantastic addition.

2nd...our overall thought process was to remove the wall between what is now the bar and kitchen when we remodeled the kitchen and make a huge kitchen. But nixed due to complexity/cost (the bar as a peaked 12' ceiling, the kitchen flat 10' ceiling). Plus we thought that would make the kitchen to big. So we came up with the bar idea. This would allow added seating space and usage space. As for design of the bar. Well we used computer programs and technical suggestions and interior designers.....ok....no we didn't. My buddy came over. I grabbed a big bottle of Crown Royal and a roll of painters blue tape. We then sat on the floor, and over from about 8pm to about 3am and about 3/4 of the bottle laid the tape out in about every configuration we could think of for the room.

3rd....Anything different? Well I'm very happy with our design. But I had never done staining or trim work before. So I wouldn't mind doing that over now that I know how. Other then that, about the only other thing I would have done would have been to add a 2nd or even 3rd a/c plug in the bar itself. I put in one thinking of a blender. But have a laptop in there all there time and other things. Also, I'm not entirely pleased with the granite tile top. Despite my efforts to seal it, it has a few ring marks and "stains" on it. Mostly on the bartenders side. But I'm about the only one that notices. And the granite tiles were cheap.

4th...I don't think our bar will ever been "finished". I've added lighting and last month some additional shelves in another wind for pint glasses.


----------



## muffyn

I need some suggestions on the back bar glass shelving.

I want to put mirrors on the wall ( each one about 3 feet wide) with 1x4 (or 1x6) boards to seperate each section . (framing it in with trim etc)

I'd like to put glass shelving across each mirror to set bottles ( & stuff) on.


now just how do I do this? I figure they would be attached at the ends. are there special specs somewhere as to how thick the shelf should be for this?

can it be done without centere support? or how is that done?


I tried searching older posts for pictures, but many have been removed that might have been some use to me.


looking at many ,many plans & built home bars they all seem to have different ideas on measurements. is there a general rule to the best height that the height of the bar should be? & the area of the counter ? ( height from floor & depth). I seem to come across that 12 inches is a good measurement for an overhang, does this include the bar edge? (or just the plywood top overhang before installing the bar edge?)

we are short on space depth , what is a range of depth of bar itself .


our bar will be 11 feet long, & thinking of just using oak veneer for the bar top. but obviously will have to be pieced. any of you have pictures of something on how you handle that? or do you suggest flooring strips?


thanks!


----------



## Tony_M

If I had to do it all over again I would make my bar bigger.














> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NightStalker30* /forum/post/20118145
> 
> 
> Hi all - long time/first time...
> 
> 
> Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.
> 
> 
> I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.
> 
> 
> I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


----------



## paz68123

Hi....again.


Still working on this project. It's coming along........slowly, but surely. So, we have two sections of about 3' x 3' between the upper cabinets where we want to put up two mirrors...one on each side. Also adding 2 glass shelves to each side, about 36" between the cabinets.


We don't want ugly middle-support brackets holding up the glass shelves. Is there something else we can do to stabilize the glass shelves between the cabinets? Current plan is to just use cabinet pegs to hold up the shelves so they 'float' in between the cabinets.


Concern: Everyone tells me we have to use 1/2" glass for that size run and it is crazy expensive! Each 12" x 36" pieces of 1/2" glass run $100 each, then the mirrors on top of that!!


Any other ideas on how to make this work?


thanks!


----------



## muffyn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paz68123* /forum/post/20413014
> 
> 
> Hi....again.
> 
> 
> Still working on this project. It's coming along........slowly, but surely. So, we have two sections of about 3' x 3' between the upper cabinets where we want to put up two mirrors...one on each side. Also adding 2 glass shelves to each side, about 36" between the cabinets.
> 
> 
> We don't want ugly middle-support brackets holding up the glass shelves. Is there something else we can do to stabilize the glass shelves between the cabinets? Current plan is to just use cabinet pegs to hold up the shelves so they 'float' in between the cabinets.
> 
> 
> Concern: Everyone tells me we have to use 1/2" glass for that size run and it is crazy expensive! Each 12" x 36" pieces of 1/2" glass run $100 each, then the mirrors on top of that!!
> 
> 
> Any other ideas on how to make this work?
> 
> 
> thanks!



hi

we are trying to figure this out also. let me tell you what I found.

from another post if you go to http://www.store.novadisplay.com/Pro...lass_Loads.PDF yo u will find out the weights the shelves can hold. & this chart is for annealed glass. if you get tempered glass it is much higher.

also from http://www.ehow.com/how_6717750_calc...ess-shelf.html has info.


now I have found cheaper prices on glass then you. calling around I found a glass place that has tempered glass 3/8 36" x 8" for $38. 12" wide is $40.

1/2" x 8" x 36" $42 12" x 36" $44.

glass mirrors from lowes 36" x 48" are $42.


our local bar has the shelves with the glass columns suspending between the shelves for support. the glass place told me they have those supports but they are drilled in the shelves & ?screwed? in. but the hole being drilled in the shelf is $20 for each hole!!! well, heck with that. 1/2 " thick glass is way more support than I will ever need. we have a hutch that is 36" wide glass with just annealed glass & is holding a bunch of stuff.

our bar back will have 2 3' x 4' mirrors on each end & the center is a wood hutch looking back which we are putting wood shelves on { its a 6' tall bed headboard we found at a sale }

oh, also home depot has glass shelves "mural floating shelves".


we are still a way from starting the bar. the concrete floor has yet to be poured in that addition. but we did find the flooring *yeah* for the room. perfect handscraped distressed , pretty cheap. so have that sitting in the living room. found where I want to get our tin ceiling. keep searching restaurant supply auctions for bar stools, but haven't found any yet. may have to go to the amish for stools.


----------



## Sdallnct

Well good to see this thread still going...sort of...

















My bar is constantly being added to. Which is the way I imagined it and wanted it. Though I was getting a little tired of hanging pic's on the wall and being all flat. So I recently "discovered" floating shelves and ledges from Ikea. They also have great inexpensive frames that are great to rotate around in and out.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muffyn* /forum/post/20424562
> 
> 
> hi
> 
> we are trying to figure this out also. let me tell you what I found.
> 
> from another post if you go to http://www.store.novadisplay.com/Pro...lass_Loads.PDF yo u will find out the weights the shelves can hold. & this chart is for annealed glass. if you get tempered glass it is much higher.
> 
> also from http://www.ehow.com/how_6717750_calc...ess-shelf.html has info.
> 
> 
> now I have found cheaper prices on glass then you. calling around I found a glass place that has tempered glass 3/8 36" x 8" for $38. 12" wide is $40.
> 
> 1/2" x 8" x 36" $42 12" x 36" $44.
> 
> glass mirrors from lowes 36" x 48" are $42.
> 
> 
> our local bar has the shelves with the glass columns suspending between the shelves for support. the glass place told me they have those supports but they are drilled in the shelves & ?screwed? in. but the hole being drilled in the shelf is $20 for each hole!!! well, heck with that. 1/2 " thick glass is way more support than I will ever need. we have a hutch that is 36" wide glass with just annealed glass & is holding a bunch of stuff.
> 
> our bar back will have 2 3' x 4' mirrors on each end & the center is a wood hutch looking back which we are putting wood shelves on { its a 6' tall bed headboard we found at a sale }
> 
> oh, also home depot has glass shelves "mural floating shelves".
> 
> 
> we are still a way from starting the bar. the concrete floor has yet to be poured in that addition. but we did find the flooring *yeah* for the room. perfect handscraped distressed , pretty cheap. so have that sitting in the living room. found where I want to get our tin ceiling. keep searching restaurant supply auctions for bar stools, but haven't found any yet. may have to go to the amish for stools.



Don't know if your still checking, but thought I'd throw out a reply,


I was going to do glass shelves in front of the three windows in my bar to hold my large collection of pint glasses. I like you did a ton of research on load, called several glass companies, etc, etc. But cost just didn't make sense. Especially for a many as I wanted (18 total shelves). So I ended up just going with 1/4 wood, stained and then added a trim piece "ledge" to the front. I did all myself, basically putting them together in my garage and then installing in the windows with just a couple of screws (in case I ever want to take out). Add some more trim on the outside. And all is good! The trim and stain is exactly what I used on the bar. And since they are sitting in windows, there is no real loss of light! And super cheap (not sure I have a $100 in all three windows). I love the look! And glad I went with wood. Cleaning is a lot easier, I'm not worried about breakage. I've posted some pic's a while back, but can do more if interested.


----------



## 1970ram

wow nice, your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks


----------



## 1970ram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/8356525
> 
> 
> Here are the final pictures of the bar with the stained panels/corbels installed. I jsut need some quarter round and thats it for now. I may do a foot rail at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



try this again

nice bar your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1970ram* /forum/post/21410467
> 
> 
> wow nice, your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks



Wow...your bar is fantastic...really finished nice...mine is more "rustic"










The bar top is 12" wide + about .5" for the trim on both sides. The overhang is probably half that. The room I used was big enough, but a little narrow. So I didn't want to wide, so made a few compromises. But it works really well. I did decide on a 12" top as that is how big the granite tiles where and since I had never put in tile before I wanted to minimize cutting. However, while out of town my wife surprised me by having our tile guy do it. The bar back area is 18" (1 tile + 1/2). And I used bathroom vanity cabinets (18" deep) as opposed to kitchen cabinets (24" deep) to again, keep things a little more narrow. I can seat 6 comfortable and 7 tightly + the bartender. Here are a few more updated pic's. Taken just now!


----------



## muffyn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21384180
> 
> 
> Don't know if your still checking, but thought I'd throw out a reply,
> 
> 
> I was going to do glass shelves in front of the three windows in my bar to hold my large collection of pint glasses. I like you did a ton of research on load, called several glass companies, etc, etc. But cost just didn't make sense. Especially for a many as I wanted (18 total shelves). So I ended up just going with 1/4 wood, stained and then added a trim piece "ledge" to the front. I did all myself, basically putting them together in my garage and then installing in the windows with just a couple of screws (in case I ever want to take out). Add some more trim on the outside. And all is good! The trim and stain is exactly what I used on the bar. And since they are sitting in windows, there is no real loss of light! And super cheap (not sure I have a $100 in all three windows). I love the look! And glad I went with wood. Cleaning is a lot easier, I'm not worried about breakage. I've posted some pic's a while back, but can do more if interested.



thank you for your reply.

i see your pictures in a further post.very cool window!! the wood shelves really look nice before that.

I still think for us, I will be using a few glass shelves, though, against the mirror.


----------



## muffyn

ok, can I get a couple more questions answered>

everyone says 42 is absolute best bar height. but is it the flat top of the bar where you set your drinks the 42"??? or do you go by the top of the chicago bar rail ( which is higher than the flat top of the bar)


also, how high is the counter portion UNDER the bar top? where you usually have your sink & glasses? I figure it should be at 10" diff? so at 32"?? but gee that seems sooooooo low, but otherwise if you make it any shorter, it doesn't seem like you could stash anything on the counter.


& the 10" overhang in front of bar,, that includes TO the total edge of the chicago bar rail?

also a suggestion







the bar itself will be 18" outside dimensions ( would love it deeper, but do nto have the room) so how far in to it would you indent the bar top back, to use the counter below? (kwim?)


I think I am more excited about this than hubby,,,







is there such a category as "woman caves"







(of course he has to do most of the work, but I get stuck staining the whole thing.)


I have been planning this for over 2 years & still am not sure on a few of those things. ( I have done a LOT of researching ) some stuff is just not self explainatory










anyway, we finally poured the foundation last week, so i will eventually start running pictures of build, but want to wait till there are some more interesting things going on. (shoot think I gotta put my pictures on website,, doesn't seem they can grab from your hard drive)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1970ram* /forum/post/21410487
> 
> 
> try this again
> 
> nice bar your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks



I'm measure it, but I don't live there anymore.







The wall was 2x6 construction, so with drywall on both sides, that's 6 inches. I believe it had about 3 inches of overlap, so we're at 9 inches - probably an additional 9 inches on the seating side for a total of 18 inches. It might be high, I used what I had upstairs in the kitchen, which is a standard width.


I'd find something you like in person and measure it. Or ask what the standard is at home depot.


Bud


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muffyn* /forum/post/21514935
> 
> 
> thank you for your reply.
> 
> i see your pictures in a further post.very cool window!! the wood shelves really look nice before that.
> 
> I still think for us, I will be using a few glass shelves, though, against the mirror.



Well if you only have a few shelves (or you have the budget), go for it! I love how my shelves turned out. The trim I added makes a nice lip to keep the the glasses from easily coming out. My pic is of two windows, I actually built the shelves in the 3rd window in the room as well. And as mentioned, I built a frame and put the shelves in the frame. Since they sit on the window sill I only added two screws on each side. And that was just to make sure it all squared up nicely. All that to say if I change my mind or sell the house, they would take about 5 minutes to remove.


But I could see going glass for the back bar area to hold the liqueur bottles.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muffyn* /forum/post/21514980
> 
> 
> ok, can I get a couple more questions answered>
> 
> everyone says 42 is absolute best bar height. but is it the flat top of the bar where you set your drinks the 42"??? or do you go by the top of the chicago bar rail ( which is higher than the flat top of the bar)
> 
> 
> also, how high is the counter portion UNDER the bar top? where you usually have your sink & glasses? I figure it should be at 10" diff? so at 32"?? but gee that seems sooooooo low, but otherwise if you make it any shorter, it doesn't seem like you could stash anything on the counter.
> 
> 
> & the 10" overhang in front of bar,, that includes TO the total edge of the chicago bar rail?
> 
> also a suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the bar itself will be 18" outside dimensions ( would love it deeper, but do nto have the room) so how far in to it would you indent the bar top back, to use the counter below? (kwim?)
> 
> 
> I think I am more excited about this than hubby,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there such a category as "woman caves"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (of course he has to do most of the work, but I get stuck staining the whole thing.)
> 
> 
> I have been planning this for over 2 years & still am not sure on a few of those things. ( I have done a LOT of researching ) some stuff is just not self explainatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway, we finally poured the foundation last week, so i will eventually start running pictures of build, but want to wait till there are some more interesting things going on. (shoot think I gotta put my pictures on website,, doesn't seem they can grab from your hard drive)



Don't over think it feel you have to go by "rules". The only thing I really wanted was true bar height and true bar stools. True bar stools are usually 29" or 30" height.


As for the bartenders area, that height in a home bar is usually the height of the cabinets (usually kitchen cabinets) plus the top. I wouldn't worry about trying to "hide" things back there. Remember this is a home bar, not a commercial bar.


But to give you some idea, my bar height ("customer" side) is 42.5". That is flat portion where you set your glass or plate. The bartenders work area is right at 37".


I'm afraid I don't understand what your saying in the relations of the bar top and bartenders area. Again if you look back at my build pic's (page 2-3 I think) I used bathroom vanity cabinets rather than kitchen cabinets. The reason is vanity cabinets are only 18" deep and kitchen cabinets are 24" and I wanted to save the room. Then I basically built a wall on the back side of the cabinets and put the bar top on that wall. My overhang on the bar side is only about 6" (I wanted 8-10, but again afraid of the it would take up to much room). I hadn't completely thought it thru tho. I hadn't taken into account the bar stools. They stick out so I could have gong at least 2 more inches with really taking up any more room in the bar. The overhang on the bartender work area is only maybe 2".


And funny about your excitement. Building the bar was my wife's idea. And she was excited. Of course the actual execution was me and my buddy...(and a bottle of Crown...lol)


----------



## Sdallnct

I added rope lighting up under my bar. Hard to explain, but I had added a piece of trim to cover some of the structure and that trim provided about 1/2" to hide some rope lighting.


Unfortunantly after adding the brackets to hold the rope lighting, you can visibly see the light (if you look). I don't like that. The rope lighting I had on hand was 1/2". I did a Google and looks like that do make smaller. Also, I saw that Home Depot sells a "track" to put the lights in. I might go look at that. The hangers that came in the box were ok, but not great.


But I liked the effect. Though with all my windows and skylights, really only useful at night. But that is ok....just another added element.


Edit: The 3/8" Track lighting from HD along with the track worked fantastic! And they have it in 2', 6' and 12' lengths (longer lengths are available if you go up to the 1/2" lighting). A 12' fun was perfect! The track is 6' sections and has double sided tape. I'm not sure about the tape on unfinished wood. But giving it a shot. Can get better tape or even put in a few screws if needed. But the track is great, much better than the hangers. Love the look.


I'm going to do same thing on bartenders side. Another 12' run should be perfect. And I'll figure out a way to switch them on and off rather than have to plug/unplug them. This is all cheap and looks good. The 12' rope lighting was $10.50 and two 6' track was like $3.50 ea....


Edit: This is what it looks like. It looks the best with all the other lights off. On the bartenders side, I don't like quite as much. The granite tiles act like a mirror. But wife thinks it looks like an optical illusion...so...will live with it for a bit. Just need to hide all the wires and good to go.


----------



## brian12566




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21526202
> 
> 
> On the bartenders side, I don't like quite as much. The granite tiles act like a mirror. But wife thinks it looks like an optical illusion...so...will live with it for a bit. Just need to hide all the wires and good to go.



I say go with it. No one will notice / care after a few beers. One thing I have noticed in building a bar is that we know where all the mistakes are, or things that came out not quite as planned...but nobody else does. I do not think anyone will ever notice those lights behind the bar. To tell you the truth, I kinda like that look.


Live with it for a while. If it still bothers you after a few parties then change it.


----------



## Sdallnct

Yea...I'm keeping for a while. Its not so much a mistake as I just don't know if I like the look. Wife says it makes it look like a glass top with light under it...which she likes.


In some spots the tap on the track is not holding. I'm guessing because of the rough unfinished wood it is attached to. I bough some more tape. Tho I think I might just take the lights out and pop in a couple of flat head wood screws. Wouldn't take but a few.


It seems to be holding on the bartenders side. Not sure why other than a little smoother.


Since I needed to hide the wires for the rope lights and figure a way to turn them on and off without just plugging/unplugging, I took the time and moved all wires and hookups. I ended up just putting two power strips in one of the cabinets (closest to the frig). I plugged one into the other. The 2nd one I put the "on/off" switch towards the front, the other one reversed so it was near the back. Obviously things like the frig, popcorn maker, etc go in the first and stay on all the time. The rope lighting and Guinness sign go on the 2nd one and can easily be switched on and off...works well.


----------



## HeyNow^

yep, don't over think it. Go with what YOU like. Pick some ideas from this great thread and run with it.




Good luck.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/21538620
> 
> 
> yep, don't over think it. Go with what YOU like. Pick some ideas from this great thread and run with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.



Oh...learned long ago that anything is reversible and repairable.


I'm thinking next up is that pub table with beer bottle tops and poured top. An idea popped into my head.


I currently use a round "bistro" table in a corner (you can see in a pic above). And I've been saving bottle tops to do one of those pub table, but couldn't quite put it all together in my head. Well I realized one thing I don't like about the pub table is that it is round and trying to go in corner. So I'm going to come up with a shape that fits the corner and mimic's the turn on my bar. I'll even use the same trim and stain. I might even make it without legs. Though the only issue I have with mounting it to the wall, is if I want to move it out of the way for a big party or something.


Design time!!


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/20008654
> 
> 
> Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
> 
> Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
> 
> Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
> 
> Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
> 
> Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487



OK, getting close to doing this. I have the table rough built and adding trim all the way around which will double as the dam.


So 1/4" inch thick. Because of the trim, I'm thinking closer to 1/2". Would this be two pours or just buy a big enough kit for that much?


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21544881
> 
> 
> OK, getting close to doing this. I have the table rough built and adding trim all the way around which will double as the dam.
> 
> 
> So 1/4" inch thick. Because of the trim, I'm thinking closer to 1/2". Would this be two pours or just buy a big enough kit for that much?



It can be done in 1 pour but its easier to control and keep the bubbles out if you do 2 separate pours. Just my opinion. I poured my entire bar top (roughly that thickness)in 1 pour and it was too much at once. If I could do it all over again I would do it in 2-3 separate small pours. I did this with my smaller half wall bar which was over 1/2" thick and the final surface turned out much nicer.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21545173
> 
> 
> It can be done in 1 pour but its easier to control and keep the bubbles out if you do 2 separate pours. Just my opinion. I poured my entire bar top (roughly that thickness)in 1 pour and it was too much at once. If I could do it all over again I would do it in 2-3 separate small pours. I did this with my smaller half wall bar which was over 1/2" thick and the final surface turned out much nicer.



Ok thanks. I don't know if I'll have time for multiple pours (how long do you wait between pours?). After wife telling me we were not having a SB party this year, last night she informed me she has invited 3 couples over and asked if I would cook. So, yea..having a party. Which means I need to have this done by then.


I've already cut the table and painted the surface last night. Trim going on today which will also act as the dam. I plan on using wood filler as a sort of caulk between the trim and inside of the table.


The table is actually fairly small. If it were square it would be 29" X 29". But I lopped off two of the corners. A little on the rear corner so cords and such could go through and larger on the front to match the turn in my bar. All that to say this should be well under 6 SF surface area.


I have a handful of the tiles I used on the bar and toyed with the idea of breaking them up and using them. However, I think, alas I'll go with beer bottle tops. I've been saving them for a project as this and so might as well stick with the plan. This should be a quick, inexpensive (I have all the stuff on hand as leftovers except the stuff for the pour).


After reading through the thread on this specific topic, I think I will go buy an inexpensive touch. Seems easier than blowing as many have reported a significant amount of bubbles when using bottle caps due to the pockets of air.


Do you have a recommendation for the glue to hold the bottle caps in place during the pour and spread? I'll have to read through again to find that. Here is what I'm doing....


Proposed layout,











Top cut out (with the old round pub table on top for comparison),











Recycled the old pub table's legs, and "dry fit" it in place. Also made reusing the same chairs so not making this bar height. I'll cut the vertical 1x2's on the wall so the table fits flush,











Top painted (hopefully to act as a seal and since the caps won't be solid) and trim going on. Yea, I'll have to touch up the trim, but that should be easy,


----------



## Iusteve

Probably something like gorilla glue to hold the caps in place but be very careful when doing caps as the envirotex will get up under them and cause countless amounts of bubbles to penetrate out from under. It could become a real headache if not careful. If doing the caps I would definitely go with a very shallow pour for your first pour.


As for how long to wait in between pours, I believe that the instructions will tell you but if I recall its something like 24 hours depending on temp/humidity but I dont recall for sure.


The hand held propane torch is a MUST but be DAMN sure that you dont get the flame to close to the surface as it will ruin the etex. It will make it all gooey and it wont settle correctly. Light the torch and turn it down to "low". Use a "sweeping" motion back and forth across the surface but stay atleast 6 inches above it to avoid trouble. The torch will cause the bubbles to rise to the surface. It shouldn't take long to do a top that size and it's a good size for your first project unlike me who decided to tackle 10 foot long "L" shaped bar for mine.......stupid idea!!


Good luck


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21547432
> 
> 
> Probably something like gorilla glue to hold the caps in place but be very careful when doing caps as the envirotex will get up under them and cause countless amounts of bubbles to penetrate out from under. It could become a real headache if not careful. If doing the caps I would definitely go with a very shallow pour for your first pour.
> 
> 
> As for how long to wait in between pours, I believe that the instructions will tell you but if I recall its something like 24 hours depending on temp/humidity but I dont recall for sure.
> 
> 
> The hand held propane torch is a MUST but be DAMN sure that you dont get the flame to close to the surface as it will ruin the etex. It will make it all gooey and it wont settle correctly. Light the torch and turn it down to "low". Use a "sweeping" motion back and forth across the surface but stay atleast 6 inches above it to avoid trouble. The torch will cause the bubbles to rise to the surface. It shouldn't take long to do a top that size and it's a good size for your first project unlike me who decided to tackle 10 foot long "L" shaped bar for mine.......stupid idea!!
> 
> 
> Good luck



What does "be careful" using caps mean? I was just going to use a dab of glue. Just enough to hold the caps in place. Or do you mean be careful with the pour so that it goes around the caps and not under them?


So if I do multiple pours the first one should be just enough to cover the caps? This would make it easier for the bubbles to come up?


I'm done with the table. Used wood filler at all corners (the between the table and molding + at a all the inner miter cuts of the molding). Then repainted the entire inside. Touched up the stain on the molding and hopefully, set to go.











And yea, I got plenty of bottle caps for this little project. Do I sort by color or brand? Or by general type? And will I make a pattern or just go random? Decisions, decisions. Guess I'll have another beer to decide.


----------



## Iusteve

I just mean be careful when you pour as the etex WILL find its way under the caps and WILL in fact cause bubbles to rise out from under them. I can see a bunch of bubbles from each cap causing you lots of problems as you only have a certain amount of time to work with the etex. My opinion is pour your initial pour up over the fringe of the caps and no more.


As for design, I suggest random placement. Patterns are predictable then again my OCD would force me to go with a pattern.....there did that help? LOL


----------



## Sdallnct

OK, thanks. This guy filled each cap with hot glue so that there would be no space. Damn. That would take forever!

http://windfarmisrecords.blogspot.co...cap-table.html


----------



## Iusteve

^ Might be a good idea.....there is a ton of empty space under each cap for a TON of air bubbles to get trapped only to slide out from under the caps once you turn away......its recipe for disaster so be very careful and take your time!


----------



## Sdallnct

Well I assume as some point the bubbles show, or they don't. So I can sit there and wait. Thankfully, not that big of a table.


Well I don't know if smart or not, but I did a dry fit of the caps. Dear lord, I didn't realize how many it would take. I almost didn't have enough. After throwing out a handful of bad caps, I only have a handful left!


I also not sure if I like the paint on the inner table and inner molding. I used the dark tan that is the same color as the walls. I'm thinking black would be better. I didn't realize how much you would see the table itself.


I did a couple of outer rows in a pattern. But then didn't have enough of the same so then went random. Finally in the center I put all the tops that have the state of Texas on it (St. Arnold).


----------



## Iusteve

I agree black would look better but the caps are going to make a cool looking table top. I have a small bucket of beer caps that I have been saving for several years for this exact reason. Someday I may pour a table.


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> I did a couple of outer rows in a pattern. But then didn't have enough of the same so then went random. Finally in the center I put all the tops that have the state of Texas on it (St. Arnold).



Drink more beer (St, Arnold) and make the center in the shape of Texas.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/21550812
> 
> 
> Drink more beer (St, Arnold) and make the center in the shape of Texas.



Ha! Not a bad idea...but alas...on a timetable...I do think I'll take one more day and repaint the table black. Than I should be able to start gluing the caps down tonight or in the morning and hopefully do the pour this weekend.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21550416
> 
> 
> I agree black would look better but the caps are going to make a cool looking table top. I have a small bucket of beer caps that I have been saving for several years for this exact reason. Someday I may pour a table.



Just be aware, it take a lot more caps than you think I thought I had plenty. But I pretty much had to us them all.


----------



## Sdallnct

First coat of glossy black on. I like the black much better.


I also bought two types of glue for a test. I want to make sure whatever I use drys clear.


The Gorilla Glue sort of foams up after a bit and seems to be a light tan in color.


The Loctite "Stik'N Seal" seems to dry pretty clear (it says "transparent").


I also bought a tube of Loctite "Clear Power Grab". It says instant grab, but it doesn't seem so on this. And the none clear version is my regular glue for moldings and such. And normally it is instant grab. Will see how it dry's.


----------



## Sdallnct

Started gluing the caps tonight. Little tedious, but going fairly quickly.


To my surprise is looks like I'm going to need close to 2 gallons?? That doesn't seem right. My table top is less than 6 SF. But I'm going to need to go nearly 1/2 an inch.

http://eti-usa.com/Calculator.html 


I understand this will take multiple coats. But I'm confused has to how to figure how much product to use on each coat.

http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/


----------



## Sdallnct

All caps glued down and drying....it take a while for that glue to dry to clear. Looks like it will be a full 24 hours on some of the areas where I used a thicker amount. And yea, I took tlogan's idea and used the Texas beer tops I had and made an outline of the state. I like the added feature, but with the odd outline there were a few more gaps than I would have liked. But the black paint helps "hide" this. I also caulked the underside of the table at the molding. Though with the wood filler and four (4) heavy coats of paint, that is probably over kill.


----------



## Sdallnct

Well. Next problem. I can't find anyone that has a bigger box than the 32oz. So far tried Michaels and Hobby Lobby.


----------



## Iusteve

Menards


----------



## Sdallnct

None in my area...I'm still looking.


Looks like Lowes sells a similar product. And seems to be cheaper. About $68 at Lowes for a gallon where as the Envirotex is about $90. Yes, if I could find it at Hobby Lobby in that size, I could use a coupon and get it cheaper. I might see if they can look up if any of their stores carry that size in the area.

http://www.glazecoat.com/GlazeCoat.htm


----------



## Iusteve

Why not just buy a couple of the 32oz kits @ HL? Do you have a Michaels near you? They also sell it. Or maybe a Home Depot?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21559904
> 
> 
> Why not just buy a couple of the 32oz kits @ HL? Do you have a Michaels near you? They also sell it. Or maybe a Home Depot?



Well, if my calculation are right I'd need 8 of the 32oz kits. Which seems a pain. But yea I could do that. But that is pretty pricey for what I thought would be a cheap product ($240). Now HL does have a 40% coupon, but only on one item. So I either got to go buy a bunch more newspapers or see if they can look up their other stores to see if they gallon size.


Though the one benefit of buying 8 kits is if I only mix two at time and I don't use them all I could return the unopened one's.


Yes, I checked Michael's. They only have the 32oz as well and at $5.00 more per box than HL.


I'll look at HD. They don't show it on their web site. But I'll go to a store tomorrow and check


I just read the instructions and watched the video for Glaze Coat at Lowes. It seems identical to the Envirotex Lite. Two parts. Carefully measure. Carefully mix. Pour (self leveling). Use your breathe or torch to eliminate bubbles. If doing a thick coating, do it in multiple batches. And only $65 per gallon.


But I got to find it and decide tomorrow if I have to wait a day or two between pours, I need to get the first one down no later than Sunday.


Found a general article on these Resin coatings and mentions several brands,


Brands Commonly Available (similar resin, but may differ in package size sold, or in price)


Castin Craft - widely available in small packages of hardener and resin for under $10, range of coloring agents and fillers available. Buy Direct

Envirotex Lite - widely available via craft stores, hobby shops, boat suppliers, plastics shops. Available in small packages of hardener and resin for under $10.

Ultra Glo – similar to Envirotex Lite, different range of distributors.

Glaze Coat - similar to Envirotex Lite, usually available from woodworking suppliers.

Crystal Sheen – similar to Envirotex Lite, usually available from plastic and casting suppliers.

Aristocrat Liquid Glass (note, the term Liquid Glass is also used for car polish brands, the epoxy resin is Aristocrat Liquid Glass) - similar to Envirotex Lite, often available from craft sections of big box stores, or art suppliers.


Edit: nearly 36 hours later, still some of the glue has not "cured" to transparent. I pretty sure it will all get there. It is just a few areas near the center where I used bigger globs of glue. All the glue is set and none of the caps move and it all seems to work well. Just taking longer than I anticipated for it all to go to transparent. If you look close, near the center you can see some of the white of the glue (it goes from white to cloudy to transparent as it cures). In my experience in doing this, the thicker the application of glue, the longer it takes to get to transparent. I really don't want to do a resin pour till all the glue is transparent.


----------



## Sdallnct

Confirmed that Lowes has the Glaze Coat product in stack. And HL doesn't stock the 1 gallon Envirotex Lite. They "may" be able to special order. They also only have 3-4 of the 32oz product on hand.


I'll likely go with the Glaze Coat. All these poured resin's seem the same. They just seem to vary by size and where sold. I'll buy a gallon and see where that gets me over 2 maybe 3 coats. Than can buy another gallon or they have smaller sizes as well.


Found an instruction sheet....looks like no sanding between coats is needed if adding the next coats within 24 hours. Which is good. Especially after the first coat.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/_pro..._pour_tips.pdf


----------



## Sdallnct

Did "first" pour this morning. Well I say first I actually did two 24oz pours. My original plan was one very thin pour to just seal up the caps. However the stuff is so thick I couldn't be that precious and it was obvious it was not going to hit all the areas as I couldn't spread the product between the caps. So I mixed another batch and poured right away (per instructions, this is ok and how you do a really large pour anyway). The total of 48oz pour got just to the top of the caps. Most caps are not covered or if they are just barely.


No leaks at all. Which is good. Only real issue is I had a couple of floaters. Which is annoying after after all the gluing I did. And now that I poured it, it looks like that there are still 2-3 blobs of glue that were not totally transparent yet. Annoying.


I pushed down the floater caps (only 3-4) and the resin should hold them. But I'm not overly worried about them. They can't float much because of how little glaze there is and it might actually give a 3D look to it. I've only got one at the edge that I'm worried about and am clamping for a bit till the resin sets up enough to hold it in place.


Bubbles are not really an issue. Yes, I have some. But I'm actually finding it easier to blow on them than use a touch. I plan on babysitting it at least two hours. Been about an hour so far. But I go over and check it every few minutes and usually find 2-3 new bubbles.


Only "real" mistake so far was that I wore an crappy old shirt in case I got anything on it. It is about 3 sizes to big on me and once when I bent over to blow on it area, it dipped in the glaze. No shouldn't effect the glaze, but I'm worried about lint or duct in the glaze. I don't see any, but will see.


I am impressed with how easy it is to work with (tho this will be a while for final results, so I might change that). But I got some on the molding and it wiped right up. The mixing was annoying, but following the directions exactly, you could see the product change. So to me that indicated was working. The pour was thicker and heavier than I anticipated, but again, all should be good.


Also, I guess I mismeasured. I thought this would take nearly 2 gallons. 1 just might do it. Which would be fantastic. Not sure how to measure out the 2nd coat. Looks like I still got a good 1/4" to go from the top of the caps to the top of the molding. I'd like the top and the molding to be the same. But will see.











Edit: Aprox 6 hours since pour and appears all is working. About 3 hours ago I checked on it and saw a bubble. Not sure if I missed it or what. But I used a toothpick to pop it. It made me nervous as it wrinkle and sort of cratered. However, about 15 minutes later, it seemed to have self leveled itself and was fine. It seems to be curing properly. Far as I can tell.


Everything I found says to pour the next coat between 10-24 hours. You can wait longer, but then it is recommended to sand. Think I'll do the pour about 10:30 tonight which would be about 12 hours. Not sure how big of a pour I'll or if smart to try to just finish it. Might do another 48oz pour and see where that gets me.


Edit: Nearly 8 hours since pour. The resin is now firm/hard. I don't want to press to hard as I'm afraid I'll leave finger prints. But it has a definite "knock" to it. Looks good.


----------



## Sdallnct

Just poured true 2nd coat. I mixed and poured 48oz.


I did this more "typical" I supposed. I first spent a little more time making sure table was level and even used those wood shims under each leg so I could make it as level as possible. I then poured all 48oz near the center scraping as much out of the bucket as I could. I then used a plastic spreader to help it and make sure it go to all edges.


This time there were a lot more small bubbles. Not sure why. I know no big one's because the caps were totally enclosed by the first pour. But these seemed to be just from the mix, pour and spread. And while I waved my torch a bit, I seemed to have more control just blowing. And these tinny bubble popped easily. I plan on babysitting again for an hour, but since initially blowing a lot of little one's, few new one's have come up.


I also brushed on (with a foam brush) some of the left over resin in the bottom of the bucket on the wood trim. Figured after my touch up of the stain, I'd need to do another layer of clear coat, so why not just use the resin.


Looks like I got aprox 1/8" maybe a little less to go. I've got some of this left, but I'm sure it won't be enough. I'll go get a small box tomorrow and hope that takes care of all.











And just did a 3rd 48oz pour. Still not to the top. Probably 1/8" or a little less to go. Wife actually said to leave a bit, that way if someone spills something it stays on the table. But I think I'll do one more pour.


I like the "depth" of how thick it is. But I would have been done by now if I had cut another 1/4" piece of plywood and laid it inside my table and glued the caps to it. I could have lowered the trim as well, but I didn't want a lip on the underside. Tho I guess now, thinking about, no one would have known.


Again, lots of little bubbles from the mix, pour and spread. And I must of gotten the worlds worse torch. I can't keep it running when I tilt it down. Wish I hadn't thrown out the box/receipt, I'd take back. But it was a really cheap one. But again, blowing is fine. And few new bubble come up. It is just that initial checking for it at the beginning.


----------



## Iusteve

Looks cool. The reason for all the little small bubbles on your 2nd and 3rd pour is because you used the plastic spreader and foam brush to spread it which disturbs it more than just pouring it straight out of the bucket. No need to worry as they will all work themselves out with a little help.


----------



## Sdallnct

Thanks. Very pleased overall. Looks like I have a little less than an 1/8th of an inch left. I bought one more small kit. Between that kit and a little I have left in the gallon kit, should do it. If it goes over a little that is ok. Or if it isn't exact, it is ok...I'm happy.


However, I forgot to buy me a diamond crusted drill bit. I'm trying to find a good bear bottle (actually I just had a thought. I've got 4 growlers sitting around. I'll use one of them!) to make a lamp out of to look good on the table. Ha!!


----------



## Sdallnct

Final results. It feels hard and slick. But heavier things still seem to stick to it. Course hasn't been 24 hours yet.



























Overall pleased with the results. Didn't need to make it so thick. The final coat really didn't add anything visually. And being the one that did it, I'm pretty critical and notice everything. Like a tinny trapped piece of dust here and there and that one corner is every so slightly closer to the top than another. But these are things only I'd notice. It really is crystal clear and very cool.


----------



## Iusteve

Looks really good. I would not leave that lamp on there right now. I would give it a few days or more to cure 100% before leaving ANY objects on top.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21583814
> 
> 
> Looks really good. I would not leave that lamp on there right now. I would give it a few days or more to cure 100% before leaving ANY objects on top.



Oh yea. I sat it on there to check for fit (I might get a bigger shade) and for photos. When I moved it, that is when I noticed it a touch tacky. But it did nothing to the surface.


I'm very happy. Other than I might make or get taller legs and make it a true pub table. My wife wanted a "regular" table in the bar as she doesn't always like sitting on bar stools. But is my bar, and I might like it at bar height. Will see. Leaving it alone for now and thru the weekend (SB party).


I do need to read back thru the other thread and see what to use to polish it. Windex scares me...so I'll look.


----------



## tank3467

I use windex on my bar/envirotex and it cleans great with no problems. Hope that saves u some time looking.


----------



## Iusteve

Envirotex lists furniture polish as a cleaner if I'm not mistaken


----------



## Sdallnct

Used a little furniture polish. Wow...slick now!


I did notice my growler/lamp was putting these tinny dents in the top. You couldn't really seem them, but could feel them. The grower has a ring of ridges along the bottom that are fairly sharp. I removed the lamp and after about two day the dents were gone. So I used double sided tape and attached a coaster to the bottom of the growler. That seems to work fine.


Tho I'm not totally happy with the growler. It is fat and low. I'm thinking of going wine bottle. Or even a beer bomber.


----------



## Sdallnct

And now I need a new project for bar....what to do...what to do????


----------



## Sdallnct

Small project. I put new material on the bar stools. I actually have two slightly different types of bar stools and the fabric was slightly different and was showing age. So found some inexpensive stuff at Hobby Lobby and threw it on. Not thrilled about the floral, but like the color and it was cheap. Plus all chairs now match,


Old,










Old










New










New


----------



## Javatime




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21584624
> 
> 
> I do need to read back thru the other thread and see what to use to polish it. Windex scares me...so I'll look.



Superb job on the table! It really turned out awesome. I've been using Windex for years on my Etex bar top without any problems.


----------



## malbols

Good to see this thread still going .

Anyone ever had success removing scratches from the ETEX'd surface ?


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malbols* /forum/post/21714158
> 
> 
> Good to see this thread still going .
> 
> Anyone ever had success removing scratches from the ETEX'd surface ?



You can check their web site and Google, but I believe I read where very fine sandpaper will do it. And if needed, you can pour another thin coat.


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Javatime* /forum/post/21709901
> 
> 
> Superb job on the table! It really turned out awesome. I've been using Windex for years on my Etex bar top without any problems.



Thanks, I'm very pleased. I could have done a better job. But I'm really happy. Especially since it is pretty close to 3/4" thick!










I've made a new lamp for the table. Since I used so many Fat Tire tops, I made a lamp out of a bomber bottle.











Then up on my bar one of my favorite wines,


----------



## muffyn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21739880
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm very pleased. I could have done a better job. But I'm really happy. Especially since it is pretty close to 3/4" thick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made a new lamp for the table. Since I used so many Fat Tire tops, I made a lamp out of a bomber bottle.



there was a recent episode on mancaves where they did a beer top table. it looked like the just pushed down the tops while pouring the finish over it. really weird. I can't imagine doing that .


anyways, Sdallnct you did a very nice job! I had thought about doing something similar many many years ago. (probably before i thought it was possible).. anyone here remember when you could save pepsi caps & turn them in by weight for gifts?? If I didn't run in my box of them, I probably would still have them to do a table (btw, I got a tv for them)


----------



## Sdallnct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muffyn* /forum/post/21740070
> 
> 
> there was a recent episode on mancaves where they did a beer top table. it looked like the just pushed down the tops while pouring the finish over it. really weird. I can't imagine doing that .
> 
> 
> anyways, Sdallnct you did a very nice job! I had thought about doing something similar many many years ago. (probably before i thought it was possible).. anyone here remember when you could save pepsi caps & turn them in by weight for gifts?? If I didn't run in my box of them, I probably would still have them to do a table (btw, I got a tv for them)



Thanks, and the gluing of the caps is an issue. If you look close the top is so clear you can see some of the glue. And on a few caps the glue broke lose and they floated. I was able to push them down.


Assuming your using black paint, I'm thinking something like black grout or black tile set. Put on thick and set the caps in firmly and let set good. This should also help minimize bubbles.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct* /forum/post/21739880
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm very pleased. I could have done a better job. But I'm really happy. Especially since it is pretty close to 3/4" thick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made a new lamp for the table. Since I used so many Fat Tire tops, I made a lamp out of a bomber bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then up on my bar one of my favorite wines,



Where the hell is the Like button on this site? Nice job!


----------



## ragedogg69

Figured I would cross post my new build. I would have loved to have a pub style bar like many of you have, but it just wouldn't work for the rest of my gameroom and home.
 
 

I recycled the granite from a neighbors home that was throwing it away on bulk trash pick up day. I grabbed the mini fridge from lowes during a dorm room sale for $89. Threw up some RTA cabinets and laid the tile myself.


----------



## 69glamboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct*  /t/574277/bar-plans/840#post_21622615
> 
> 
> Used a little furniture polish. Wow...slick now!
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice my growler/lamp was putting these tinny dents in the top. You couldn't really seem them, but could feel them. The grower has a ring of ridges along the bottom that are fairly sharp. I removed the lamp and after about two day the dents were gone. So I used double sided tape and attached a coaster to the bottom of the growler. That seems to work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Tho I'm not totally happy with the growler. It is fat and low. I'm thinking of going wine bottle. Or even a beer bomber.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sdallnct*  /t/574277/bar-plans/840#post_21739880
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm very pleased. I could have done a better job. But I'm really happy. Especially since it is pretty close to 3/4" thick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made a new lamp for the table. Since I used so many Fat Tire tops, I made a lamp out of a bomber bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then up on my bar one of my favorite wines,


Hello Sdallnct.... Love this thread. I searched all over and i can't seem to find the brand of the cherry red stain you used on your bar. It is absolutely stunning. I really like the cap table as well.


----------



## Swampfox63


What design plan did you use or is this something you did on your own...really looks great...doing something for my theater room in the garage and like your photos.


----------



## Javatime

I agree. It's great to see this thread still kickin'


----------



## hltr

*Plans*

When I was planning my bar I never was able to find one approach that I liked. My build is a mashup of different techniques and approaches I stumbled upon. I think there are enough pics to document the process if you follow my build link, but if anyone has questions I'm happy to assist.


----------



## cyberphox

ragedogg69 said:


> Figured I would cross post my new build. I would have loved to have a pub style bar like many of you have, but it just wouldn't work for the rest of my gameroom and home.
> 
> 
> I recycled the granite from a neighbors home that was throwing it away on bulk trash pick up day. I grabbed the mini fridge from lowes during a dorm room sale for $89. Threw up some RTA cabinets and laid the tile myself.


This size and setup is perfect for the build I have planned for the new house. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## dmbandtimmy

Any recommendations on glass mini fridges? I'm also wondering if it is a good idea to add a mini wine fridge next to it? I'm wanting to build a walk up bar. 

Here is the mini fridge I'm currently looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/NewAir-AB-120...1413083278&sr=8-11&keywords=glass+mini+fridge


----------



## dmbandtimmy

update. I bought a Newair 126 and a wine enthusiast 32 bottle mini fridge. Both get good reviews. I'll update with a photo. I just dropped 5k on midline cabinets for my walk up bar last night. I went with Cherry wood and they have soft close doors. Very excited to get them in. I also purchased quartz for the counter top and went with an undermount sink. Trying to decide on the tile for the backsplash now. Tiling with big squares right below the walk up bar also. 

I will post reviews of these fridges after I have had them for awhile so others can have a place to start.


----------



## primetimeguy

It's been a long time since I visited this thread but thought I'd upload a few pics since we just put the finishing touches on our bar.


----------



## Vartz04

I want to dig this one up. So many good ideas. Helped me figure out what I wanted to do for my bar. It’s still in progress though. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Test_Engineer

Vartz04 said:


> I want to dig this one up. So many good ideas. Helped me figure out what I wanted to do for my bar. It’s still in progress though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I assume the barnboard is from a big box store? What product is it? I like the look, and I am planning the same thing, but vertical installation.


----------



## Vartz04

Test_Engineer said:


> I assume the barnboard is from a big box store? What product is it? I like the look, and I am planning the same thing, but vertical installation.




Yeah from Menards.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Test_Engineer

Vartz04 said:


> Yeah from Menards.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, I'll have to take a look at it there. I assume it is this one:
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...283-c-8178.htm?tid=7812020330126706572&ipos=5


----------



## taxman48

Amazon has a nice bar complete with foot rail..


----------

