# You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti



## Mark Goetz

I saw some others with the problem..set comes on for a sec. then goes into a protection mode...the light on mine blinks 3 times...


When it first happened I took the back off and (WOW, lol) very dirty, cleaned it out thinking that was the problem...And when I plugged it back in and turned it on it came right on? But, next day same problem. This time I just unplugged it for a few minutes and it came on (keep in mind though, the first time this happened I had tried that, unplugging it..with NO success then).


I guess I am asking if anyone else found out something, like what is the problem???


Thank You for any info.

PS: I have had this TV for about 5 years now and love it. I would hate for this to be a unfixable or cost more then its worth to fix.





I decided to have the name of the thread changed so people can post and read about these kinds of problems with these TVs









I just think we needed a thread for this, as I have read here and other forums of these problems, but they are spread all over the place....

Please feel free to post here with your problem, fix, or answer to another users problem







But please, DO NOT POST HERE your complaint, preference of brand or model, or anything other then what relates to the thread title!!! Thank You










As an added point I like to make.............

Please if anyone has any info on any problem fixes from the standby light blinks (2,3,4,5, etc.. blinks), feel free to add it in this tread.......................


Thank You, have a good day







and good luck with your Sony


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## Mark Goetz

Ok...reading some more and it seems to be a IC problem?


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## WhiteWhiskers

3 flashes indicates a failure or caused by "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) circuit." "IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)" is the probable cause. You can also bring up a self-diagnosis screen to display recent faults. Press display, channel 5, sound volume -, power on. 0 indicates no fault, 1 indicates fault. Press power off on the remote or tv to exit the screen and turn off the tv.


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## litzdog911

It's certainly a TV worth fixing (I still love my 40" XBR800!). But it's tough to say how much $$$$ you're looking at.


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## Mark Goetz

Thanks for the input

I will try that when I am not worried about watching TV...lol


litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?


whitewhiskers...As for parts. Is there somewhere I can get them or are they only available to service techs?? Just curious


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## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12026284
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input
> 
> I will try that when I am not worried about watching TV...lol
> 
> 
> litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?
> 
> 
> whitewhiskers...As for parts. Is there somewhere I can get them or are they only available to service techs?? Just curious



Sony.com They sell to the public.


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## Mark Goetz

Thank You

I will try...


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## Mark Goetz

ok. I tried to get the D-board from sony parts....and, Ofcourse not available. Now I am trying them for the specific ICs. I do wounder if they will have those??

Since I feel they won't.....Does anyone know where else I could maybe find them??

Thanks again for everyones help


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## WhiteWhiskers

Do you have the service manual for your model TV? I have the service manual for the 970 and can't be sure the part numbers for the D-Board and possible bad IC are the same for the 800. Also be aware that swapping out the D-Board is a complicated procedure. You'll have to mess with the CRT high voltage lead. And then there's the whole issue of restoring all the config data.


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWhiskers* /forum/post/12088003
> 
> 
> Do you have the service manual for your model TV? I have the service manual for the 970 and can't be sure the part numbers for the D-Board and possible bad IC are the same for the 800. Also be aware that swapping out the D-Board is a complicated procedure. You'll have to mess with the CRT high voltage lead. And then there's the whole issue of restoring all the config data.



OK! Very true and didn't really consider all that...thank you

But my problem still needs to be the "problem ICs" (the ones that have the high failure rate). So back to my question, the MCZ3001D ICs, where can I get them?


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## Mark Goetz

Side Note: I don't have a problem with doing this myself









Except for the config. stuff







lol


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## Mark Goetz

OK! sony parts said they have the MCZ3001D(B), they gave the number with the "B" on the end (hoping it is a replacement that doesn't fail as much or at all). As I get it and install, I will keep everyone up to date










Thanks again










PS: cost $22.31 ea. plus tax and shipping.......OFCOURSE LOL


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## WhiteWhiskers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12101801
> 
> 
> OK! sony parts said they have the MCZ3001D(B), they gave the number with the "B" on the end (hoping it is a replacement that doesn't fail as much or at all). As I get it and install, I will keep everyone up to date



How did you determine that the part you are ordering, IC6501, is the defective part on the D board? As I wrote earlier and it shows up on the 510 and 970 series service manuals, 3 flashes of the standby light indicates failure of IC6505, which is part# SE-140N. The part you are ordering is IC6501.


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## Mark Goetz

Sorry WhiteWhiskers

Yes I had said that and I seem to have been wrong. After watching several times it was flashing 7 times. In which case I read else where that the problem part is either IC6501 or IC8002, I don't know which one so I am going to replace both. I am sorry for my confusion there.

Actually I have been sitting here thinking..........

Does anyone know why these ICs keep failing and since they do, is there someway to bypass the faults (well, the ghost faults, since it doesn't seem to be anything actually wrong with the TV, just these ICs that go bad for no apparent reason)???????????


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## redwald

I did a google search for my problem and it found this thread.

Same thing happening with my KV-34XBR800 34". Its about 4 years old. Of course I didn't get the extended warranty because its a Sony, right? My old Trinitron lasted 20 years with no problems.

Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.

If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redwald* /forum/post/12121371
> 
> 
> Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.
> 
> If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.



As I found in this forums is: 6 or 7 flashes means that either IC8002 or IC6501 is faulty. You can buy them at sony.com/parts . Although it is true I don't know which 1 is bad, but everyone here says they are the problem. cost $23 ea. there is 2 of them (part# MCZ3001DB).

Again I would love to find out if there is a way to bypass the ghost fault, seems it actually isn't a fault, just that the ICs think there is.


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## litzdog911




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12026284
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?
> 
> 
> ....



The KV40XBR800 is a 4:3 format CRT. It's the biggest they ever made and weighs just over 300lbs. Also produces excellent HDTV (1080i) video in its HiDef 16:9 mode (black bars across top & bottom of CRT).


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## Mark Goetz

litzdog911- Thank You







that is what I thought.....LOL and I thought mine was heavy









I guess 34" is the biggest 16:9 format?


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## bicyclejoe

I'm (sort of) glad to find out my XBR CRT isn't the only one with this "fault mode blinking light". My 32 XBR 400, 32" HD CRT just experienced the failure.


I'm not up to swapping out parts so I want to give it away. It weighs 250lbs but would be worth picking up, for some handy person.


I'm in mid-Michigan, Lansing area. Post questions or PM me.


Joe


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## WhiteWhiskers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12123193
> 
> 
> I guess 34" is the biggest 16:9 format?



RCA made a 38" 16:9 tube HDTV, ProScan PS38000. They also made a model with a built-in DirecTV receiver The thing is a monster. Every so often I'll see somebody giving one away (broken).


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bicyclejoe* /forum/post/12153039
> 
> 
> I'm (sort of) glad to find out my XBR CRT isn't the only one with this "fault mode blinking light". My 32 XBR 400, 32" HD CRT just experienced the failure.
> 
> 
> I'm not up to swapping out parts so I want to give it away. It weighs 250lbs but would be worth picking up, for some handy person.
> 
> 
> I'm in mid-Michigan, Lansing area. Post questions or PM me.
> 
> 
> Joe



Thats a shame







But a free xbr would be nice to have....to far for me to drive, otherwise I would be more then happy to take it off your hands.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWhiskers* /forum/post/12153521
> 
> 
> RCA made a 38" 16:9 tube HDTV, ProScan PS38000. They also made a model with a built-in DirecTV receiver The thing is a monster. Every so often I'll see somebody giving one away (broken).



I bet it weighs a ton LOL (read on please, as I fixed mine







)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redwald* /forum/post/12121371
> 
> 
> I did a google search for my problem and it found this thread.
> 
> Same thing happening with my KV-34XBR800 34". Its about 4 years old. Of course I didn't get the extended warranty because its a Sony, right? My old Trinitron lasted 20 years with no problems.
> 
> Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.
> 
> If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.



I found another forums site that everyone there said it was either IC6501, IC8002 on the D-board, or the MCZ3001D on the A-board (sorry can't remember the IC# off hand). One person said they replaced the 6501 and it fixed it, so of course I tried that one 1st, but it wasn't my fix! So onto the next one, 8002. That was it







. I even took the IC from the 6501 slot and put it in the 8002 slot. I bought 2 MCZ3001DB replacements from TSM ($5.75ea.), and got them the next day







. Oh! and I installed sockets in case I have to do it again







, but it will be a 5 min job next time.

I did this yesterday and so far so good (knock on wood...LOL), it came right on after replacing it and works fine, like before







.



As for everyone having this or similar problem....

I wish it wasn't true, but Sony like any big company can't be perfect and since they don't actually make the ICs, they can't predict all problems with a particular component







. Take in consideration that most of them work fine for years before they crap out. Not to say everyone can fix them, but with a little research and the right tools (not expensive equipment or tools are needed) and some patients, can do this.

I DO NOT recommend that you just open the TV up and start unsolder things. All I ask that you have to have some experience with this and do your research. It only cost me $26 dollars total and I have a spare chip, thats better then $150+ cost to have a tech do it. BUT, if you are not comfortable do this, THEN DON'T!!!!!!!

I THANK EVERYONE HERE FOR ALL THEIR HELP AND INFO.....
Have a good day and Good luck with your XBRs


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWhiskers* /forum/post/12025951
> 
> 
> 3 flashes indicates a failure or caused by "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) circuit." "IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)" is the probable cause. You can also bring up a self-diagnosis screen to display recent faults. Press display, channel 5, sound volume -, power on. 0 indicates no fault, 1 indicates fault. Press power off on the remote or tv to exit the screen and turn off the tv.



I really want to THANK YOU for the INFO. and all your help









Most appreciated


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## Realmach

Mark,

I'm about to tackle the same issue of power up with my 34xbr800 that I purchased in 2002. I've ordered replacement MCZ3001 circuits and will attempt the repair when they arrive. I realize this may not be my issue but right now I have a 250 pound dust catcher. I found a similar link but with a different tv (KV-36XBR400) on agoraquest.com. I appreciate your posts and don't be suprised if I pm you if I run into any problems.


This tube by far exceeds, the picture on my 42 inch lcd. The last salesman stated that the 34xbr800 is the best tv that Sony has made. I agree.


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## tucker7993

We're having the same problem with a sony kv-34xbr800. I got my husband a plasma last year for Christmas (sold my beloved motorcycle). Anyway, we sold our Sony to our friends just a few months ago. Now it's not working. This one hasn't been used much, and suddenly, poof! No power and seven blinks.


They can't afford to pay a couple hundred to fix it - thanks to everyone who posted here. If we can fix it for under $50, it will be a blessing! You guys ROCK!


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## Slayer714

I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-

Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where

the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.

That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any

experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slayer714* /forum/post/12216407
> 
> 
> I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
> 
> Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
> 
> the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
> 
> That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
> 
> experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.



Hmmm!!! 5 flashes. Not sure it is the same problem? What I found out the mcz3001d ICs cause 6 or 7 flashes.... IT could still be those ICs, but I would search more for now. I only looked for 6 or 7 flashes, so I can't say it is the say problem, as I have found that 3 flashes are caused by different IC chip and not the mcz3001d (but could be your problem chip? as they seem to be a faulty chip and they now make replacements for them).

And Thank You for your post







I am glade to help anyway I can










Good luck and please keep updates as to your findings and/or fixes.


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tucker7993* /forum/post/12203669
> 
> 
> We're having the same problem with a sony kv-34xbr800. Now it's not working. This one hasn't been used much, and suddenly, poof! No power and seven blinks.
> 
> 
> They can't afford to pay a couple hundred to fix it - thanks to everyone who posted here. If we can fix it for under $50, it will be a blessing! You guys ROCK!



That would be either IC6501 or IC8002, can't say for sure cause I found it to be 8002 was my fix and someone else said it was the 6501? As I wrote earlier it is a MCZ3001D 18 pin chip (replaced with the MCZ3001DB). You can find on e-bay (if you don't mind the wait or trusting them) or at electronic supply parts businesses, like TSM ( http://bmb.goemerchant.com/cart/cart...mber=MCZ3001DB )

Also, I would suggest, since the chip has to be removed, would be to install a 18 pin chip socket (pick that up at radio shack for less then a buck)







in case it goes bad down the road.... OH! and I paid a total of 26 bucks for 2 ICs and 2 sockets







My time was about 2 hours total >>mostly because I wanted to be very careful not to screw anything else up.. There is a lot of touchy components in these TVs, SO be VERY CAREFUL!!!! I cannot stress this enough.........................................


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## RobertF

I would like to second the recommendation made above to install 18 pin sockets. That will reduce the risk of damaging the IC during soldering and it will simplify any future replacements.


I installed sockets when I replaced two of the ICs in my KV-36XBR400. IC6501 turned out to be the problem on my TV.


Also, I posted some soldering tips over at the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum under the ID "BobF". Here's a link to that thread:

http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?...page_number=10 


These tips are more directed more to those without a lot of soldering experience.


And, as a general observation, the diagnostic blink codes only point you to a potential problem area. Without any board level diagnostics, It's a gamble that replacing any of the ICs will be a fix. Of course, it's a gamble that was worthwhile for many, including myself.


Bob


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## redwald

Well Mark, I wish I had waited another 6 days before I decided to bring my TV to the repair shop because you were right. I asked the repairman to save the parts he replaced and it turned out to be 2 bad MCZ3001D DIPs. He also replaced a couple of capicitors. Cost me $349. Wish I had seen your post before I brought in in.

Next time this happens I'll certainly do it my self or maybe just give it away. I had to bribe the neighbor kid to help me lift it into the entertainment center, next time it breaks I don't know what I'll do.


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## Mark Goetz

Correct RobertF







True that it isn't always going to be those parts...Thank You for the post.


Sorry! redwald







If you are confident you can do it, then go for it







If you can turn the TV around while in the entertainment center? Then you can just do the repair on it. I have the matching stand for mine, and I didn't have to move the TV off it







Just slide the back off and get enough wires loose to slide the whole board(s) out (just be sure to reattach any connections and put it back the way it was before). Some say they got to the solder points from underneath, I just removed the 8 (?I believe it was 8?) screws holding the D-board. I then stood the card on its side to access the pins. Like I said though!!! *Be very careful*!!! As everything in these TVs (and any high end TV) components are very touchy!!! Just be very *cautious*!!!

I forgot to mention the 5 connection straps, these weren't to bad. They have sides clips to hold them firm (like connectors in a car, wiring harness connectors....push in or pry away some kind of plastic clips), these you use a small screwdriver (plastic would be best) to slightly pull away and pull up on the side on D-board. These will spring up when loose enough. This was the toughest part of doing it my way and wouldn't suggest it unless you very comfortable with electronics and their components........

Otherwise, try to access these from below...without removing the D-board.


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## RobertF

Mark,


I think it was very cool that you were able to replace the ICs without actually removing the D-Board from your TV. In my case, I slid the entire lower chassis out and worked on the D-Board while it was still mounted in place. One nice thing about that option is that the chassis can function as a holder to keep the D-Board in a vertical position for the desoldering and soldering. It also makes it easy to access both sides of the D-Board.


Bob


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## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/12278646
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> I think it was very cool that you were able to replace the ICs without actually removing the D-Board from your TV. In my case, I slid the entire lower chassis out and worked on the D-Board while it was still mounted in place. One nice thing about that option is that the chassis can function as a holder to keep the D-Board in a vertical position for the desoldering and soldering. It also makes it easy to access both sides of the D-Board.
> 
> 
> Bob



Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.

And I was able to leave most the wires connected.

Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).

Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.

I wish I took pictures of the process now







. I was more wanting to get it fixed







.


Thank You for the post


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## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12281890
> 
> 
> Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.
> 
> And I was able to leave most the wires connected.
> 
> Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).
> 
> Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.
> 
> I wish I took pictures of the process now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was more wanting to get it fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thank You for the post



Yes, I needed to disconnect every wire connecting the main lower chassis to the rest of the TV. I labeled every connector with folded over pieces of masking tape to simplify the reassembly process. That was actually a pretty easy process with the exception of the two red wires that run to the D-Board mounted flyback. I was just unable to disconnect those at the flyback. For the thicker red wire I just disconnected it at the anode cap connector at the top of the tube. And I ended up cutting the smaller red wire that ran up the the yoke mounted C-Board. I spliced that wire back together after I reinstalled the chassis.


Another Agoraquest forum member has since posted that the flyback wires can be removing by pulling..... with a good deal of force. I thought that might work but I was afraid I would damage something. (As an update, some have had the wire break off inside the flyback. So use caution or just cut and splice.)


The plastic chassis bracing did partially obstruct access to one of the D-Board MCZ3001D ICs. But I was able to work around that without removing it.



Bob


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## bubose












I was getting the dreaded 6 blinks, no powerup on my 36xbr800. After reading many posts and troubleshooting the circuits, I tried one last thing: replacing both mcz3001d's on the D board: IC6501 and 8002(?). Guess what? It works now! Thanks to everyone on this board for helping me save this TV from a landfill.


I used the mcz3001db's form Hitachi.


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## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubose* /forum/post/12340371
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting the dreaded 6 blinks, no powerup on my 36xbr800. After reading many posts and troubleshooting the circuits, I tried one last thing: replacing both mcz3001d's on the D board: IC6501 and 8002(?). Guess what? It works now! Thanks to everyone on this board for helping me save this TV from a landfill.
> 
> 
> I used the mcz3001db's form Hitachi.



Congratulations on the successful repair!


Did you install 18 pin sockets to simplify future replacements?


Did you remove the D-Board from the TV for the soldering work?


Bob


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## bubose

Well, there is a story behind this. The TV died about three weeks ago. After much hurried troubleshooting and research here on avsforum, I went ahead and ordered the IC's online with overnight shipping. I wanted to get the parts and try them before "black friday" because I had my eye on a sweet Sharp LCD TV if the repair was unsuccessful.


The part was overnighted to me, with the other IC backordered(!). I immediately replaced IC6501 and tried it. No luck, but the TV behaved differently. At this point, it was the day before thanksgiving and I decided to go ahead and buy a new TV. Fast forward to last night and the backordered IC arrives. I replaced IC8002 with this one and now the TV works.


One thing to note, in my hurry to repair the TV before thanksgiving, I did not solder one pin of IC6501. I noticed this last night after replacing the second IC (8002). Since the TV behaved differently after replacing the first IC 6501, I think I just got in a hurry and probably would've had it fixed that first day. Oh well. Now I have 2 sweet TVs. The picture quality on this XBR is still better than my new LCD...


I did not use sockets...I was going to but I accidently stepped on them (fell out of my pocket) breaking all the pins. I have done a lot of IC swapping in my day so it was no big deal (even though I missed soldering a pin like a total noob).


I also did not remove the D Board. I just propped it up into service position and took the lineman's pliers to that hard gray plastic covering IC6501. I figured if it works, great. If not, oh well.


Again, thank you for all the help!


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## RobertF

Thanks for the additional information.


And congratulations again on the successful repair. These TVs really do have spectacular images. I wonder how many of these sets are in landfills simply because a $6 IC failed.


Bob


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## joup4u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/12226914
> 
> 
> I would like to second the recommendation made above to install 18 pin sockets. That will reduce the risk of damaging the IC during soldering and it will simplify any future replacements.
> 
> 
> I installed sockets when I replaced two of the ICs in my KV-36XBR400. IC6501 turned out to be the problem on my TV.
> 
> 
> Also, I posted some soldering tips over at the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum under the ID "BobF". Here's a link if anyone is curious:
> 
> http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?...page_number=10
> 
> 
> These tips are more directed more to those without a lot of soldering experience.
> 
> 
> And, as a general observation, the diagnostic blink codes only point you to a potential problem area. Without any board level diagnostics, It's a gamble that replacing any of the ICs will be a fix.
> 
> 
> Bob



I successfully repaired my 36XBR400 using the great info from Bob and the same forum above...my user name over there is joup4. I pulled my board, bought all the parts online and the sockets at Radio Shack, and had my local TV repair guy do the soldering. My total bill was $80+ and still have a great functioning TV. Thanks again Bob!!


Joe


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## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slayer714* /forum/post/12216407
> 
> 
> I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
> 
> Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
> 
> the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
> 
> That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
> 
> experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.



You problem is in either 1- video out ic (cx,ch boards) ,2- crt drive ic (b board)


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## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12219332
> 
> 
> Hmmm!!! 5 flashes. Not sure it is the same problem? What I found out the mcz3001d ICs cause 6 or 7 flashes.... IT could still be those ICs, but I would post "5 flashes" problem here or on Agoraquest.com (or search more). I only looked for 6 or 7 flashes, so I can't say it is the say problem, as I have found that 3 flashes are caused by different IC chip and not the mcz3001d (but could be your problem chip? as they seem to be a faulty chip and they now make replacements for them).
> 
> And Thank You for your post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am glade to help anyway I can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck and please keep updates as to your findings and/or fixes.



Hi Guys: 5 blinks means video out ic9001-ic9003 maybe faulty (ch,cx boards)

also crt drive ic2801 (b board),also G2 is inproper adjusted.


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## holonalu

My 40XBR700 just gave me the lights out and the 7 blink 7 blink code.

Have had it since 2002, great picture, beats the heck out of my 50" Panasonic DLP. Will give it a look tomorrow, both Sears, here in Hawaii, and Sony, want nothing to do with it. I agree with all you guys, this is to good a piece of AV equipment to dump into a landfill.


Aloha from the land of 12 and 0, U of H that is


----------



## holonalu

Do the XBR 700 and 800 use the same D board?

And, I expect heat for this one, which board is the D board? I can only find one 18 pin chip on my set. Any help would be appreciated, next time you're on Maui, I'll buy you a beer. Would hate to toss this thing, landfills on Maui are packed as it is.


Mahalo


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12401758
> 
> 
> Do the XBR 700 and 800 use the same D board?
> 
> And, I expect heat for this one, which board is the D board? I can only find one 18 pin chip on my set. Any help would be appreciated, next time you're on Maui, I'll buy you a beer. Would hate to toss this thing, landfills on Maui are packed as it is.
> 
> 
> Mahalo



I doubt that they have the exact same part number but the early D boards look very similar. I have schematics for the XBR2 and XBR800 and both D boards have the IC8002 and IC6501, MCZ3001D chips. If it helps, the IC8002 chip is near the flyback transformer, the large module with a high voltage going to the top of the tube, on both. IC6501 is the same exact type of chip.


----------



## holonalu

I owe you a beer!!! Thanks for the info, was pretty much told by the local TV guy that the XBR was pau, as in landfill, will start major surgery on it tomorrow. After all, it's not rocket surgery, or brain science, is it? Now where's my sledgehammer and chainsaw?????? Seriously, this is a set worth saving, best picture resolution I've seen, even though it's pushing 6 years old. Any of you guys think there is a "planned obsolesence" going on here?


Aloha and mahalo


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slayer714* /forum/post/12216407
> 
> 
> I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
> 
> Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
> 
> the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
> 
> That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
> 
> experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.



Five blinks; this is a (white balance failure)Video out, IC9001,IC9003,is faulty,(CH,CX Board).CRT drive IC2801,is fault.(B Board)Or G2 is improperly adjusted.


----------



## holonalu

When my 36" JVC went out, very similar to what the 40XBR700 is doing, it was the FBT that had gone out. Replacement parts weren't available, (jeez, I wonder why that is?), had to scrap the JVC. Anyways, same symptoms with the Sony, but, I did find, on another site, a really simple way to test both your flyback transformer and your CRT. Turn the set on, hold your arm up to the screen, if your hair is pulled towards the screen, then all is well with the FBT and CRT!!!!!! So, it's gotta be those IC's!!!!!!!!


Aloha

For this test, hairy arms can come in very handy


----------



## holonalu

Placed the order for the chips, two of them, $11.98, no biggy. Shipping to Hawaii, UPS ground, (well, they can't really do that, until someone builds a 2400 mile bridge), $30.42!!!! The price you have to pay to live in paradise. Will let you know how the repair goes, already got the skinny red wire off the FBT, had to take the thick one off the top of the CRT. If I can fix this myself, I'll give the TV guy a call, ask him if he needs lessons........


Aloha


----------



## holonalu

Chips arrived yesterday, I'm kind of torn between jaucamole or salsa with em!!!! Had no problem getting those five inter-board connectors off, just used my fingers, and gave them the finger a few times!

Will do the desolder and install tomorrow, hope it works, as previously posted, would hate to see this 40XBR in the landfill.


Aloha and melekalikimaka


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12540893
> 
> 
> Chips arrived yesterday, I'm kind of torn between jaucamole or salsa with em!!!! Had no problem getting those five inter-board connectors off, just used my fingers, and gave them the finger a few times!
> 
> Will do the desolder and install tomorrow, hope it works, as previously posted, would hate to see this 40XBR in the landfill.
> 
> 
> Aloha and melekalikimaka



Best of luck with your repair!


If you haven't done a lot of soldering (and desoldering) see the link I provided above with some tips and lessons learned.


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Mahalo for the input. Last soldering I did was on a Lafayette build at home stereo amplifier! There isn't much space between the IC pins, but it's definitely worth a try. Just luggin this 300 lb beast to the elevator would be quite an accomplishment..


Aloha and melekalikimaka!!!!!!!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12561568
> 
> 
> Mahalo for the input. Last soldering I did was on a Lafayette build at home stereo amplifier! There isn't much space between the IC pins, but it's definitely worth a try. Just luggin this 300 lb beast to the elevator would be quite an accomplishment..
> 
> 
> Aloha and melekalikimaka!!!!!!!!!



I had done some soldering also before I attempted my XBR400 repair. What I found to be more of a challenge than I expected was _desoldering_. That was a bit of a pain. I did have an old and defective PC motherboard stored away and I practiced desoldering some ICs on that. that was a big help. I also found a head mounted magnifying visor to be a big help.


Also, as mentioned above, consider installing 18 pin sockets for the ICs.


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Have almost all the pins on the 8002 IC desoldered, a couple just aren't going for it, perhaps I should heat from the IC side and try to get the solder from under the board, with the board on its side. Any thoughts? Thought about getting the RS 45 watt desoldering gun, but that would more than likely be overkill....


Aloha and hauoli makahiki hou!!!!!!


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12619089
> 
> 
> Have almost all the pins on the 8002 IC desoldered, a couple just aren't going for it, perhaps I should heat from the IC side and try to get the solder from under the board, with the board on its side. Any thoughts? Thought about getting the RS 45 watt desoldering gun, but that would more than likely be overkill....
> 
> 
> Aloha and hauoli makahiki hou!!!!!!



use a good clip cutters or pliers, and cut from the top but be carefull not to damage the board pads, the cutter has to cut very well, do not twist.then as you hit up the pins pull them up with a clippers.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec* /forum/post/12622771
> 
> 
> use a good clip cutters or pliers, and cut from the top but be carefull not to damage the board pads, the cutter has to cut very well, do not twist.then as you hit up the pins pull them up with a clippers.



That's excellent advice and it's pretty much the exact technique that I used.


I removed the body of the IC by cutting each of the 18 legs individually. I then removed as much solder from the bottom of the board as I could with soldering wick.


Then I grabbed each leg from the top of the board while I heated the solder from the bottom of the board. I used a medical hemostat to grab the pins.


After I had all of the pins removed I test fit the 18 pin socket and removed additional solder with solder wick where needed.


To help avoid overheating the board, I used a temperature controlled soldering station with a 665 to 680 deg. F setting. (I had found that temperature range recommended online.)


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Once again, mahalo for the info. Can't seem to get some of the pins cleared of solder, and that RS desoldering tool definitely does suck, unfortunately it's not the solder. Will get the wick tomorrow, I can't seem to find any kind of cutters that will make it into that very confined space by 8002 and 6501 to cut the IC from the top. Anyways, at this point it's more of a battle of wills than anything else, if it works, great, if it doesn't, I gave it my best shot. And those guys at RS a bit of kala, Hawaiian for money. Sidenote, my Panasonic DMR-ES45V gave up the ghost 3 days past manufacter's warranty, go figure!!


Aloha and haoule makahiki hou, GO UH WARRIORS!!!!!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12636253
> 
> 
> Once again, mahalo for the info. Can't seem to get some of the pins cleared of solder, and that RS desoldering tool definitely does suck, unfortunately it's not the solder. Will get the wick tomorrow, I can't seem to find any kind of cutters that will make it into that very confined space by 8002 and 6501 to cut the IC from the top. Anyways, at this point it's more of a battle of wills than anything else, if it works, great, if it doesn't, I gave it my best shot. And those guys at RS a bit of kala, Hawaiian for money. Sidenote, my Panasonic DMR-ES45V gave up the ghost 3 days past manufacter's warranty, go figure!!
> 
> 
> Aloha and haoule makahiki hou, GO UH WARRIORS!!!!!!!



Here's a link to the type of "shear cutter" that I used to cut the pins off the IC in my 36XBR400:

http://www.remelectronics.com/Showca...nShowcaseID=15 


I also removed the rubber handles from my tool to improve its ability to reach into tight spaces. You should be able to get one of these at Radio Shack.


And I had absolutely no luck with two different types of Radio Shack desoldering tools. I tried a spring loaded suction tool and a rubber bulb suction tool. Soldering wick is the only thing I could get to work.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Bob,

Once again, mahalo nui loa for the input!! The 40XBR700 D board must be a little different layout than yours, I bought those very same cutters at RS, (they know me on a first name basis now, kind of scary), and there is no way on earth that those cutters can get at the IC pins, the IC's are buried to begin with, heat sinks and FBT in the way, so it's down to the desoldering braid, and, as has been mentioned, lots of ho'omanawanui, patience. Any idea as to how long it should take to desolder a pin using the wick?? As I mentioned, the RS solder sucker really did suck, think it's intended for the "big" connections.


Aloha and GO WARRIORS, and, of course, Haouli makahiki hou!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12643974
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Once again, mahalo nui loa for the input!! The 40XBR700 D board must be a little different layout than yours, I bought those very same cutters at RS, (they know me on a first name basis now, kind of scary), and there is no way on earth that those cutters can get at the IC pins, the IC's are buried to begin with, heat sinks and FBT in the way, so it's down to the desoldering braid, and, as has been mentioned, lots of ho'omanawanui, patience. Any idea as to how long it should take to desolder a pin using the wick?? As I mentioned, the RS solder sucker really did suck, think it's intended for the "big" connections.
> 
> 
> Aloha and GO WARRIORS, and, of course, Haouli makahiki hou!!!



You're very welcome.


Here's another tip that _might_ help you with cutting the pins. If you're able to clip the nine pins on one side of the IC, you can then rotate the IC body into a vertical position and clip the remaining nine pins from underneath the body.


Using the soldering wick can be a little time consuming since you need to be careful that you don't overheat the surrounding circuit board. You also need to cut off the end of the wick whenever it gets saturated with solder.


Here's an excerpt from the wonderful "pinball circuit board repair tips" link that I provided within my soldering tips link:

_*Using Desoldering Braid.*

Desoldering braid is flexible copper braid with impregnated flux. Always use "fresh" solder braid. The stuff has a shelf life; the flux can dry and fall out, causing the braid to oxidize and become useless.


To use it, just take a small length of braid, and put it right over the solder joint you want to desolder. Then put a hot and tinned soldering iron on the braid. The braid will heat up, and melt the solder joint below it. The molten solder will be "absorbed" by the braid, leaving the solder pad clean and clear. Do not reuse this section of solder braid; always use a new fresh section for the next solder joint to desolder. Cut the old section off about a 1/4 inch from the absorbed solder (the flux probably melted out of the braid any closer).


Desoldering braid works well, but it requires additional heat to make it work (your soldering iron needs to be hot!) Excessive heat is bad for a circuit board, as it can cause the solder pads and traces to lift from the board. Also adjacent electrical components can be damaged from the heat._


Happy New Year and Best of Luck!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Well Bob, after many attempts to get the 8002 chip cleared, I finally threw in the towel, ordered a new D Board through Sears, cost shipped is about $306.00, I was amazed that they actually still have them in stock. Sooo, I figure the D board which has now become a centerpiece on my diining room table is history, bust out the 15 watt iron, the desoldering braid, and the remnants of 8002 come right out, have already seated the new IC, I'll be laughing my po'o, head, off, if the other one comes out.Go figure............


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## bluejay

Have a 32hs510 - 6 blinks was the symptom, replaced IC8002 after reading the thread here and agoraquest - seems to have solved them problem. Will let you know if anything else was needed but for now - my thanx to all


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12784598
> 
> 
> Well Bob, after many attempts to get the 8002 chip cleared, I finally threw in the towel, ordered a new D Board through Sears, cost shipped is about $306.00, I was amazed that they actually still have them in stock. Sooo, I figure the D board which has now become a centerpiece on my diining room table is history, bust out the 15 watt iron, the desoldering braid, and the remnants of 8002 come right out, have already seated the new IC, I'll be laughing my po'o, head, off, if the other one comes out.Go figure............
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



Wow. I'm also surprised that Sears had D-Boards for sale. Be sure to post an update after you install the board!


Bob


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluejay* /forum/post/12811096
> 
> 
> Have a 32hs510 - 6 blinks was the symptom, replaced IC8002 after reading the thread here and agoraquest - seems to have solved them problem. Will let you know if anything else was needed but for now - my thanx to all




Congratulations on the successful repair!


Did you use 18 pin sockets?


Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering?


Did you use solder wick for desoldering?


Any other comments on your repair?


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Aloha Bob, the saga continues,

Sears called this morning, the D board is no longer available, they have credited my credit card, so it's back to the desoldering again, about 9 pins to go on the 1605, what a pain, AND A CHALLENGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Why do the big guys, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung not support their products with after market replacement parts????????????????? Kind of makes you wonder......... Hopefully I haven't fried the motherboard.


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## bluejay

Did you use 18 pin sockets? Yes


Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering? Partially - I have remounted the tv in an a/v wall unit. Built a new mounting frame to fit the cabinet.


Did you use solder wick for desoldering? No - I tried but from past work, I had a good solder sucker and a good temp controlled soldering iron. I just resoldered the joint before sucking.


Any other comments on your repair? I had schematics from when I bought the tv. As far as experience, I used to integrate oem monitors kits into our product line so I have built prototypes and a lot of experience with chip removal. I used TSM for getting ICs (prompt, no problems) - bought 2 ICs have used 1. I initially thought I had blown the DVI interface card as I felt a spark when redoing my rf cabling to my cable box. I disconnected the board and the 6 blinks went away for about 2 days. It came back and I went searching. So far everything is going fine.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12816076
> 
> 
> Aloha Bob, the saga continues,
> 
> Sears called this morning, the D board is no longer available, they have credited my credit card, so it's back to the desoldering again, about 9 pins to go on the 1605, what a pain, AND A CHALLENGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Why do the big guys, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung not support their products with after market replacement parts????????????????? Kind of makes you wonder......... Hopefully I haven't fried the motherboard.
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



I'm sorry to read that Sears no longer carries the D-Board.










Last year, when my XBR400 developed problems, Sony still offered D-Boards for $243 through a return/exchange program. You would ship them your current, non-working, D-Board and they would send you a repaired one.


If you want to check on that option _call_ the Sony Direct Accessories and Parts group (DPAC):

http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/eco.../web/index.jsp 


You want to call since the online system doesn't always lists all the available parts. (The toll-free phone number is listed on the above link.)


Another option is to send your board off to an outfit like Tristatemodule.com:

http://tristatemodule.com/ 


They quoted me $150 plus shipping both ways for a D-Board repair.


But I would press on with your repair attempt first.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluejay* /forum/post/12819772
> 
> 
> Did you use 18 pin sockets? Yes
> 
> 
> Did you remove the D-Board for your soldering? Partially - I have remounted the tv in an a/v wall unit. Built a new mounting frame to fit the cabinet.
> 
> 
> Did you use solder wick for desoldering? No - I tried but from past work, I had a good solder sucker and a good temp controlled soldering iron. I just resoldered the joint before sucking.
> 
> 
> Any other comments on your repair? I had schematics from when I bought the tv. As far as experience, I used to integrate oem monitors kits into our product line so I have built prototypes and a lot of experience with chip removal. I used TSM for getting ICs (prompt, no problems) - bought 2 ICs have used 1. I initially thought I had blown the DVI interface card as I felt a spark when redoing my rf cabling to my cable box. I disconnected the board and the 6 blinks went away for about 2 days. It came back and I went searching. So far everything is going fine.



Thanks for all of the detailed info!


I had absolutely no luck with two different types of solder sucker tools. But I didn't resolder the joints first. I'll keep that in mind in the future.


----------



## bluejay

Robert,

In using the solder sucker, I first resolder the ICs legs - so I see it liquify. Then I solder the tip of the iron with a small bead of solder, place the solder sucker in position, apply the tip of the iron to the leg and release the solder sucker. In the case of the kv32hs510 board, the holes are only partially soldered through the board and make it easier to extract than thru the board plated holes which sometimes whick the solder all the way up the leg of the chip. The key is releaseing the solder sucker while the solder is liquid and not having it jerk away while sucking.

Hope this helps.

Jay


----------



## holonalu

Mahalo guys, am putting down the Sledge Omatic for the time being, and back to the desoldering. Think I have about 10 pins or so to clear on the 1650, and Bob, you're clue as to the braid going "stale", is right on the mark..


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluejay* /forum/post/12826104
> 
> 
> Robert,
> 
> In using the solder sucker, I first resolder the ICs legs - so I see it liquify. Then I solder the tip of the iron with a small bead of solder, place the solder sucker in position, apply the tip of the iron to the leg and release the solder sucker. In the case of the kv32hs510 board, the holes are only partially soldered through the board and make it easier to extract than thru the board plated holes which sometimes whick the solder all the way up the leg of the chip. The key is releaseing the solder sucker while the solder is liquid and not having it jerk away while sucking.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Jay



Jay,


Thanks for the excellent description of your technique.


Bob


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12827477
> 
> 
> Mahalo guys, am putting down the Sledge Omatic for the time being, and back to the desoldering. Think I have about 10 pins or so to clear on the 1650, and Bob, you're clue as to the braid going "stale", is right on the mark..
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



Again, good luck! Post an update when you get a chance.


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Down to 5 pins on the 1650, found the easiest way to get them out is to oversolder, as mentioned, from underneath the D board, then give them a little shove with a safety pin while the solder is still molten, and clean up with the desoldering braid. Of course, I'll know later this evening if it all works out right.


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12840307
> 
> 
> Down to 5 pins on the 1650, found the easiest way to get them out is to oversolder, as mentioned, from underneath the D board, then give them a little shove with a safety pin while the solder is still molten, and clean up with the desoldering braid. Of course, I'll know later this evening if it all works out right.
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



You're getting close!










Be careful with the safety pin to avoid lifting any of the circuit traces on the board surface.


----------



## Danielus

I have a Sony KV-32HS500 (DA-4 chassis) with the 7 blink problem where the TV won't turn on. It appears my model is very similar to the XBR's and I have read about others who fixed the KV-32HS500 by replacing these chips. I am waiting for my six MCZ3001DB chips to arrive from eBay ($28 incl. shipping), and I plan to replace the 6501 and/or the 8002 on the D board. I plan to use 18-pin sockets. I have chosen to do the repair with the TV face down, which neatly exposes the D board (see picture). To get at 6501, I gently cut the gray plastic support with a knife. I'm ready to go for chip replacement, but I'm wondering if I should do one or the other chip first, or just do both. From what I've read here, sometimes a new 6501 made the TV work, and sometimes a new 8002 made it work. I'm thinking replacing both would be best, BUT I have only a little experience soldering, and I don't want to have my unskilled hands poking around with a hot iron any more than I have to. Thoughts?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danielus* /forum/post/12851245
> 
> 
> I have a Sony KV-32HS500 (DA-4 chassis) with the 7 blink problem where the TV won't turn on. It appears my model is very similar to the XBR's and I have read about others who fixed the KV-32HS500 by replacing these chips. I am waiting for my six MCZ3001DB chips to arrive from eBay ($28 incl. shipping), and I plan to replace the 6501 and/or the 8002 on the D board. I plan to use 18-pin sockets. I have chosen to do the repair with the TV face down, which neatly exposes the D board (see picture). To get at 6501, I gently cut the gray plastic support with a knife. I'm ready to go for chip replacement, but I'm wondering if I should do one or the other chip first, or just do both. From what I've read here, sometimes a new 6501 made the TV work, and sometimes a new 8002 made it work. I'm thinking replacing both would be best, BUT I have only a little experience soldering, and I don't want to have my unskilled hands poking around with a hot iron any more than I have to. Thoughts?



Last year I had read more online reports of IC8002 being the problem so I replaced that one first. But, as luck would have it, the problem turned out to be with IC6501. Without any board level diagnostics, a coin toss will probably work as well as anything for picking one over the other.










Be sure to read my soldering tips in the link provided above. It's directed towards people without a lot of soldering experience. Be prepared to find the _desoldering_ task the real challenge.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12852958
> 
> 
> Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



Sorry to hear the news.










Did you use 18 pin sockets? If so, make sure that the ICs are fully seated and installed in the proper orientation. And if you have extra MCZ3001D ICs you could swap those with the installed ICs in the event one of your new ICs is defective. (That's certainly a longshot but it's an easy check if you used sockets.)


You might also want to double-check all of the D-Board connectors to be certain everything is hooked up securely. You might even want to disconnect and reconnect every connector.


If none of that works you could still send your D-Board out for repair to a place like tristatemodule.com. Plan on about $150 + shipping costs in both directions. (Of course, you would be gambling that the problem is on the D-Board.)


Bob


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12852958
> 
> 
> Well, got the IC's soldered in, everything back together, and nothing, get 5 blinks now rather than 7, think this thing is history.
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



A few questions. Did you inspect the board, after removal of the old ICs, for damage to the traces, etc. ? Did you make sure the orientation of the new ICs matched the old ones? Did you inspect your soldering for shorts from pin to pin, etc. ?


Good Luck


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/12855836
> 
> 
> A few questions. Did you inspect the board, after removal of the old ICs, for damage to the traces, etc. ? Did you make sure the orientation of the new ICs matched the old ones? Did you inspect your soldering for shorts from pin to pin, etc. ?
> 
> 
> Good Luck



That's great advice.


And, along the same lines, it might be worthwhile to re-touch all the solder joints. Sometimes, even a solid looking joint can have a continuity problem.


----------



## holonalu

I removed the D board again, held it up to a bright light, and saw where I had missed soldering a few pins on the IC. Will give it another go, check for oversoldering, etc. Regardless, Aloha nui to all you guys for the support and advice, if I can't fix it I will send it out. Sony has yet to return my phone call???? What a great support system, they should log on here and learn a thing or two................And I can now remove that D board in about 3 minutes, piece of cake, (just need the proper sized sledge hammer, I personally prefer a 12#), actually 3 to 5 minutes is all it takes to remove it, I can't imagine trying to work on it with it still in the TV.


Aloha and okolemaluna


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/12861591
> 
> 
> I removed the D board again, held it up to a bright light, and saw where I had missed soldering a few pins on the IC. Will give it another go, check for oversoldering, etc. Regardless, Aloha nui to all you guys for the support and advice, if I can't fix it I will send it out. Sony has yet to return my phone call???? What a great support system, they should log on here and learn a thing or two................And I can now remove that D board in about 3 minutes, piece of cake, (just need the proper sized sledge hammer, I personally prefer a 12#), actually 3 to 5 minutes is all it takes to remove it, I can't imagine trying to work on it with it still in the TV.
> 
> 
> Aloha and okolemaluna



The bright light trick is a good one. I used that when I was desoldering to be sure that I had completely cleared the pin holes of solder.


----------



## Danielus

Well, I fixed my Sony KV-32HS500 seven-blink problem three days ago and it has been working perfectly ever since! I started by replacing the 8002 chip and fortunately that was the one that caused the problem. I spent $28 for 6 MCZ3001DB chips from eBay, and $23 at Radio Shack for a 25 watt soldering iron, solder (0.032", 60/40 rosin core as recommended), desoldering braid, two 18-pin sockets, a practice printed circuit board, two more sockets for practice, and an electronics air duster can. Desoldering was not as difficult as I had anticipated - that desoldering braid works great! I was glad I practiced first with the (inexpensive) circuit board and sockets. I soldered them in, desoldered them with the braid, then soldered them again to simulate what I'd need to do on the TV. It really helped me know how long to hold the iron at the joint, and how much solder to use. Thanks a million to RobertF for his soldering tips and to everyone for all the information about their experiences with these great Sony TV's.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danielus* /forum/post/12880856
> 
> 
> Well, I fixed my Sony KV-32HS500 seven-blink problem three days ago and it has been working perfectly ever since! I started by replacing the 8002 chip and fortunately that was the one that caused the problem. I spent $28 for 6 MCZ3001DB chips from eBay, and $23 at Radio Shack for a 25 watt soldering iron, solder (0.032", 60/40 rosin core as recommended), desoldering braid, two 18-pin sockets, a practice printed circuit board, two more sockets for practice, and an electronics air duster can. Desoldering was not as difficult as I had anticipated - that desoldering braid works great! I was glad I practiced first with the (inexpensive) circuit board and sockets. I soldered them in, desoldered them with the braid, then soldered them again to simulate what I'd need to do on the TV. It really helped me know how long to hold the iron at the joint, and how much solder to use. Thanks a million to RobertF for his soldering tips and to everyone for all the information about their experiences with these great Sony TV's.



Congratulations on the successful repair!


It's great that you were able to select the faulty IC first. From a purely statistical standpoint, some of us have to get that right.











And I'm glad the soldering tips were helpful.


Bob


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/12855488
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear the news.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use 18 pin sockets? If so, make sure that the ICs are fully seated and installed in the proper orientation. And if you have extra MCZ3001D ICs you could swap those with the installed ICs in the event one of your new ICs is defective. (That's certainly a longshot but it's an easy check if you used sockets.)
> 
> 
> You might also want to double-check all of the D-Board connectors to be certain everything is hooked up securely. You might even want to disconnect and reconnect every connector.
> 
> 
> If none of that works you could still send your D-Board out for repair to a place like tristatemodule.com. Plan on about $150 + shipping costs in both directions. (Of course, you would be gambling that the problem is on the D-Board.)
> 
> 
> Bob




KV36hs500= five blinks means, "White balance failure" (not balanced) and the probable cause locations listed are as follows:


1. Video OUT (IC9001-IC9003) is faulty (C board).11Q/N4==IC9001



2. CRT drive (IC2801) is faulty (A board)

3. G2 is improperly adjusted.











TDA6111Q/N4==IC9001

RED-VIDEO-OUT


TDA6111Q/N4=IC9002

GREEN-VIDEO-OUT


TDA6111Q/N4=IC9003

BLUE-VIDEO-OUT


----------



## disco277

Ok, what if I have a 32HS510 that just won't turn on... no noise, no lights... nothing.


It did make the "noise" when I went to turn it on, then nothing since.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *disco277* /forum/post/13203801
> 
> 
> Ok, what if I have a 32HS510 that just won't turn on... no noise, no lights... nothing.
> 
> 
> It did make the "noise" when I went to turn it on, then nothing since.



Did you try unplugging the tv from the wall's power outlet?


If you did not, unplug the tv from the wall's power outlet, wait around 5 min, then plug the tv back into the socket and try to turn it on again.


----------



## disco277

Tried both... no luck. Still no lights or noises.


----------



## disco277

For anyone who cares... It did end being the fuse.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *disco277* /forum/post/13247944
> 
> 
> For anyone who cares... It did end being the fuse.



Thanks for the update!


Whare was the fuse located?


Was finding a replacement difficult?


----------



## disco277

Fuse was located right next to where power cord comes into the chassis.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *disco277* /forum/post/13288440
> 
> 
> Fuse was located right next to where power cord comes into the chassis.



Thanks for the information!


----------



## doveman

Hi guys. I've just recently been having this problem and didn't know what was going on until I noticed the 7 flashing lights and looked it up here. Thank goodness for AVSforum!


I've ordered the replacement IC's (best deal I found was about £30 for 12 including shipping from the US) and I'm going to ask my Dad to fit them for me as I'm a) rather nervous around the insides of TV's and he used to be a TV engineer b) not very good at soldering. Unfortunately, he's just gone on holiday for 6 days and I'll probably have to wait a while for the IC's to arrive. The TV was particularly hard to get going this morning so I'm tempted to leave it on until I can fix it but that's hardly good for my electric bill!


What I wanted to ask about was the fact that it seems to have changed to 6 flashing lights now and I was wondering if going from 7 to 6 helps to narrow down the problem and give any pointers as to which chip might be the best one to start with. I expect not and I'm in the same boat as everyone else, so I'll just have to pick one and see if I get lucky but I thought it worth asking.


----------



## holonalu

It just gets wierder all the time!!! My Sony 40" XBR, a true monster weighing in at about 300 pounds, was given up for dead. I tried replacing the IC's, no go there, may have done more damage than good. So, I'm about to hire some of my buddies to give me a hand hauling it out of here, give Sony parts a call, get some rep in Manila, give them the part #, "Sure, we've got it", it being the complete D board assembly. I asked a few times, verifying the part #A-1346-948-A, even with the slight language problem they're sure they have it in stock, supposed to be here on Thursday, I'll keep you posted, will be amazed if it actually shows................probably shouldn't have typed that........

Also, any suggestions as to how one gets the larger red wire that runs to the CRT out of the Flyback, doesn't seem to want to budge????????


Aloha and okolemaluna from Maui


----------



## holonalu

New/rebuilt D board for my 40XBR700 just showed up, took longer to put the rear cover back on the TV than it did to install the new board. Had kind of forgotten what a great display these sets have.


Aloha from Maui


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/13534295
> 
> 
> New/rebuilt D board for my 40XBR700 just showed up, took longer to put the rear cover back on the TV than it did to install the new board. Had kind of forgotten what a great display these sets have.
> 
> 
> Aloha from Maui



Wow! Congratulations!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

Bob,

Wish I had been a little more patient with the de-soldering on the original D board, may have been able to salvage it. The great thing about the new D board is that the FBT connectors are already in place, I really don't think the CRT connector to the FBT will come out without the use of a sledgeomatic, it appears to have a spring connector that locks it into place, Anyways, for 276 bucks for the new D board, a few minutes getting it installed, and meeting some great folks who know their sh#t, I'm a lucky guy. Thanks to all of you for the advice and encouragemant, we now have an empty spot in the landfill here on Maui..


Aloha and mahalo

And yea, first trip to RS I'm getting a surge protector, the best they've got


----------



## mysonybroke

Hello everyone! I have a KV-36HS500. I love this set! Well a couple days ago, it decided not to turn on anymore. I was getting the 6 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself.


I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 on the D board. I also used 18-pin sockets and was very careful. I was feeling pretty good about it after I installed them and put the tv back together. A bit more detail, I had the set face down while I pulled the chassis out and did the work with the board vertical. I also clipped that piece of plastic away for easier access to the underside of one of the IC's. Everything went smooth.


Ok, so now it's still not working.







Now I get 3 flashing standbye lights. I turn the tv on, the standbye light flashes 3 times and then the tv shuts off. I took her apart again and looked over my work again and rechecked all the connections. Everything looked ok and I put it back together but still no luck, same problem.


I've read that 3 lights = OVP or over voltage protection, not sure how to fix that one yet. Any Ideas? I'm stuck. Help!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mysonybroke* /forum/post/13564223
> 
> 
> Hello everyone! I have a KV-36HS500. I love this set! Well a couple days ago, it decided not to turn on anymore. I was getting the 6 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself.
> 
> 
> I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 on the D board. I also used 18-pin sockets and was very careful. I was feeling pretty good about it after I installed them and put the tv back together. A bit more detail, I had the set face down while I pulled the chassis out and did the work with the board vertical. I also clipped that piece of plastic away for easier access to the underside of one of the IC's. Everything went smooth.
> 
> 
> Ok, so now it's still not working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I get 3 flashing standbye lights. I turn the tv on, the standbye light flashes 3 times and then the tv shuts off. I took her apart again and looked over my work again and rechecked all the connections. Everything looked ok and I put it back together but still no luck, same problem.
> 
> 
> I've read that 3 lights = OVP or over voltage protection, not sure how to fix that one yet. Any Ideas? I'm stuck. Help!



As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.


And here are some additional suggestions.


Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.


Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?


Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.


Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## holonalu

I'ld just get the new D board, and really don't see how you can do any decent soldering, or, as Bob pointed out, desoldering, with the D board still in place. I can get that D board out in around 2 minutes, (don't mean to brag!!) all the connectors, on the 40XBR700, are not interchangeable, as in they can only plug in one way into one spot. Perhaps your flyback transformer is dead........anyways, for 276 bucks, with shipping to Hawaii, I consider it to be a bargain, am watching it as I type...... And Bob's da bestest, as is this website!!!


Aloha and best of luck!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mysonybroke




RobertF said:


> As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.
> 
> 
> -I'm going to take it apart one more time and unplug everything I unhooked again and blow everything out with compressed air.
> 
> 
> Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?
> 
> 
> -I'm sure they were fully seated and the orientation was correct.
> 
> 
> Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.
> 
> 
> -I thought of this but I only ordered the 2 IC's, I knew after I ordered them that I should've got more.
> 
> 
> Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.
> 
> 
> -I don't think I did, the job went well. I was able to desolder with the braid very easily, I popped the old chips out with no issues within 10 minutes. I thought of removing the D board but it just wasn't an issue for me to access these chips. There was that piece of bracket plastic in the way but I cut that away and it was no problem working on either chip.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> -Thanks for the fast response! I'm going to take it apart again soon and give it a hard look. It just makes me wonder what is going on because I'm not getting the previous 6 blinking lights. I guess I could put the old chips back in and see what it does. That would tell me if I did anything wrong I suppose if it goes back to flashing 6 times instead of the 3 flash/shut off. I will post back when I find out more. I don't want to jump the gun and order a new D board if that isn't even the problem ya know. I'd hate to give this thing up but I'm not done trying yet. Thanks again for the suggestions.


----------



## RobertF




mysonybroke said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/13564316
> 
> 
> As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.
> 
> 
> -I'm going to take it apart one more time and unplug everything I unhooked again and blow everything out with compressed air.
> 
> 
> Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?
> 
> 
> -I'm sure they were fully seated and the orientation was correct.
> 
> 
> Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.
> 
> 
> -I thought of this but I only ordered the 2 IC's, I knew after I ordered them that I should've got more.
> 
> 
> Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.
> 
> 
> -I don't think I did, the job went well. I was able to desolder with the braid very easily, I popped the old chips out with no issues within 10 minutes. I thought of removing the D board but it just wasn't an issue for me to access these chips. There was that piece of bracket plastic in the way but I cut that away and it was no problem working on either chip.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> -Thanks for the fast response! I'm going to take it apart again soon and give it a hard look. It just makes me wonder what is going on because I'm not getting the previous 6 blinking lights. I guess I could put the old chips back in and see what it does. That would tell me if I did anything wrong I suppose if it goes back to flashing 6 times instead of the 3 flash/shut off. I will post back when I find out more. I don't want to jump the gun and order a new D board if that isn't even the problem ya know. I'd hate to give this thing up but I'm not done trying yet. Thanks again for the suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think installing the old ICs is a good diagnostic idea. As long as nothing went wrong during the repair, you should be able to get back to the 6 blink pattern.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to shine a bright light behind the D-Board to see if you can see any light through the newly soldered connections. This works best in a darkened room.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## doveman

I'm delighted to report that my TV's working again.


We decided to replace both IC8002 and IC6501 (after fitting sockets) before testing it, as whilst it would perhaps have been of some interest to see if we got lucky and picked the dodgy chip first time, we didn't really want to end up changing the other one with juice lingering in the set.


I found the hinging mechanism somewhat confusing, as I was expecting it to hinge whilst still attached to the chassis, so it was a bit disturbing when the board assembly just kept coming but it wasn't a major problem and we ended up just propping it up resting against the left speaker (we removed the right speaker as it severely obstructed the area we needed to work in).


We couldn't work out how on earth other people had managed to cut the IC legs before desoldering them as there simply doesn't seem to be enough room to get any tools in there but the desoldering, with a combination of desolder pump and desoldering braid, went fairly smoothly. To remove IC6501 and install the replacement socket, we decided to remove some of the screws holding down the D board, enabling us to slip something between the board and the plastic, which held them apart enough to give us room to work.


Gave the set a good vacuum whilst the back was off as well, as I'm sure all that dust can't be good for it










Thanks to everyone here who gave advice or suggestions, for helping me to save my set.


----------



## RobertF

doveman,


Congratulations on your successful repair! Good job!


Also, the legs can be cut if you use a small shear cutter.


I used an $4.99 Xcelite 170M from my local Fry's Electronics and that worked fine. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.remelectronics.com/Showca...nShowcaseID=15 


This tool needs to be small so that you can reach the legs without being blocked by the surrounding components on the board. I actually slid the rubber handles off the tool to allow for even easier access in some of the tighter spots.


Bob


----------



## pcp33

Hello I have a xbr910. The red light is blinking twice every couple of seconds for about 2 months now. the set still works. I have done a search not to much about 2 blinks. anyone know what IC's need to be replaced. should i wait for the set to stop working or risk really messing things up if the fix doesn't work. also the set doesn't seem to be as sharp as it once was since this started happening or is that just my imagination.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pcp33* /forum/post/13672468
> 
> 
> Hello I have a xbr910. The red light is blinking twice every couple of seconds for about 2 months now. the set still works. I have done a search not to much about 2 blinks. anyone know what IC's need to be replaced. should i wait for the set to stop working or risk really messing things up if the fix doesn't work. also the set doesn't seem to be as sharp as it once was since this started happening or is that just my imagination.



I wouldn't worry about it until it stops working.


But I think you might be able to access the internal diagnostic menu to see if there's a fault code recorded. Search the forum for how to do that.


Also, did you try unplugging the TV overnight? Sometimes that can reset the internal electronics.


Bob


----------



## Mark Goetz

Hi everyone









I thought I would check in on this forum thread I started to see how its going.

I am very happy to see this is helping most (sorry for those with problems not solved). Also, an update to mine... Still working great










Special thanks to Robert









Thanks to everyone for supporting AVS forums, as this is the best place for this kind of help!



PS: I also had my TV calibrated (ISF) and it looks great now (better then when I bought it). FYI... It didn't cost an arm and a leg with who I used and he took care of everything (geo., grayscale, and on all inputs). He will even travel a good distance from home to do it (he drove around 70 miles to me, 1 way).




Thanks again all


----------



## Aluvial

I have a KV36XBR400 and have the dreaded 7 blinking lights.... I also have had 4 blinking lights.


Well, I found this on the web after some searching.


Hope it helps someone.


http: // www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/1892/Sony_DX-1A.html 


Sean Riley


----------



## net_synapse

*Sony Model# KV-27HS420* with the dreaded 6 blink error code.


I replaced both ICs (MCZ3001DB) and the set is good as new.


I also have *Sony Model# KV-36XBR800* that recently developed the same issue.


Looks like round two with a soldering iron.


Thanks to the great info. in this thread I am saving a ton of cash doing the work myself.


Easy repair and I get to keep the sets for awhile longer until I decide to pull the trigger on both and get LCD replacements...


----------



## eclipsedave

First and foremost, a big "Thank you" to Mark Goetz for kindly responding to my email about my TV problem. I followed his instructions and read every post in this thread. Mark, I really appreciate your prompt response.


I am happy to report that I fixed my Sony KV-34XBR800. It was having difficulty powering up after 5 years of daily use. If I left it alone for a few days, it would still turn on fine, but the "leave alone" time period soon got longer and longer. I believe it had 6 or 7 blinks going on.

It turns out that only (1) IC was bad--the one at the IC8002 location.

I read in the posts that some folks regretted not photographing their repair, so I figured it was the least I could do to give back to this great forum. I went overboard with MS Paint on purpose, so you can poke fun at the photos all you want.







I hope the photos aren't too big.


Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60

(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23

Total cost: $21.83


"Step 1" shows how easy it was to shift the heavy TV sideways, while remaining on it's stand, to remove the screws and cover. Arrow points at general location for those troublesome "MCZ" IC's.


"Step 2" shows the dusty identified chips. The dust was not nearly as bad as I thought it might be.


"Step 3" shows close-up of chips.


"Step 4" shows a way to slide the TV over and access the underside without lifting the TV.


"Step 5" shows target zone.


"Step 6" shows view of target zone from underneath.


"Step 7" shows Dremel extension with cutting attachment. This made cutting through the plastic bracket a snap. The cutting wheel's diameter is not wide enough to go through the entire width of the bracket, but that won't matter.


"Step 8" shows Charlie Brown's shirt-colored cutting zones, with both IC's identified underneath.


"Step 9" shows pliers to easily snap off the bracket, as not much plastic remained to secure it.


"Step 10" shows exposed circuit board.


"Step 11" shows opposite side of cutaway plastic bracket to show that it's not solid.


"Step 12" shows mirror view to help check your desoldering job. Using a Radio Shack desoldering bulb made this part really easy.


"Steps 13 and 14" show a chip puller in use for removing and replacing it with the new 6501 chip first. When the TV didn't power up, I replaced the old 6501 and repeated the same thing with the 8002. Goooooooal!!!


Dave - 1

Landfill - zero


----------



## eclipsedave

photos 6-10


----------



## eclipsedave

photos 11-14


----------



## eclipsedave

I forgot to mention that I first soldered the IC sockets in place and that soldering upside down was challenging, but not impossible. I can see where turning the TV on it's face would really help.

I could have saved time by trying IC8002 first and then I wouldn't have had to cut away any plastic, but now there are 2 IC sockets in place and I've got an extra MCZ3001DB for any needed replacement in the future. With sockets installed, it should be a quick and easy job. I used a Weller WTCPT soldering iron and some no-clean solder for the job.

Note: Without the aid of that chip puller, I would have had real difficulty removing the original chips. Even with the TV set unplugged, it's like a real life game of Milton Bradley's Operation.


----------



## Mark Goetz

You are very welcome Dave









Congrats on the successful repair.. Yes, it is good to hear another one of these fine TVs saved from landfill










One thing I will say. You are a brave man for balancing that TV like that! I would be afraid it end up on me







Kidding aside. Thanks for the good pics too.


Thanks again to this site and everyone here


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aluvial* /forum/post/13745931
> 
> 
> I have a KV36XBR400 and have the dreaded 7 blinking lights.... I also have had 4 blinking lights.
> 
> 
> Well, I found this on the web after some searching.
> 
> 
> Hope it helps someone.
> 
> 
> http: // www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/1892/Sony_DX-1A.html
> 
> 
> Sean Riley



Thanks for the info Aluvial









and

Congrats net_synapse for another success


----------



## Mark Goetz

I also have recently got the complete service manual for the 500 and 800 series pdf form. Kinda late for my repair, but here is what the blinks stand for......

----------------------------------------------------------------------

When an error occurs, the STANDBY/TIMER LED will flash a set number of times to indicate the possible cause of the problem. If there is more than

one error, the LED will identify the first of the problem areas.


Power does not turn on Does not light _______

? Power cord is not plugged in.

? Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)

Power does not come on.

No power is supplied to the TV.

AC Power supply is faulty.

+B Overcurrent (OCP)* 2 times

? H.OUT (Q5030) is shorted. (D Board)

? +B PWM (Q5003) is shorted. (D Board)

Power does not come on.

Load on power line shorted.

Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) 3 times

? IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)

Has entered standby mode.

Vertical Deflection Stopped 4 times

? 15V is not supplied. (D Board)

IC5004 is faulty. (D Board)

Has entered standby mode after Horizontal raster.

Vertical deflection pulse is stopped.

Power line is shorted or power

supply is stopped.

White Balance Failure (not balanced) 5 times

? Video OUT (IC9001-IC9003) is faulty. (CH, CX Board)

? CRT drive (IC2801) is faulty. (B Board)

? G2 is improperly adjusted.**

No raster is generated.

CRT cathode current detection reference pulse output is small.

LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)*** 6 times

? +5 line is overloaded. (A, B, M Boards)

? +5 line is shorted. (A, B, M Boards)

IC504 is faulty. (A Board)

No picture

Horizontal Deflection Stopped 7 times

No picture

* If a +B overcurrent is detected, stoppage of the vertical deflection is detected simultaneously. The symptom that is diagnosed first by the

microcontroller is displayed on the screen.
** Refer to Screen (G2) in Section 2-5 of this manual.
*** If STANDBY/STEREO LED flashes six (6) times, unplug the unit and wait 10 seconds before performing the adjustment.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the way it is stated in the manual, of course we know 6 or 7 blinks is one of those trouble ICs. I just stated this for someones reference.


Also, here is some more info for the built in self-diagnostic....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Self-Diagnostic Screen Display

For errors with symptoms such as power sometimes shuts off or screen sometimes goes out that cannot be confirmed, it is possible to bring up past occurrences of failure on the screen for confirmation.


To Bring Up Screen Test

In standby mode, press buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:
DISPLAY Channel 5 Sound volume - Power ON.


SELF DIAGNOSIS

2: +B OCP 0

3: +B OVP 0

4: VSTOP 0

5: AKB 1

6: LOWB 0

7: H-STOP 0

101: WDT 24


Handling of Self-Diagnostic Screen Display

Since the diagnostic results displayed on the screen are not automatically cleared, always check the self-diagnostic screen during repairs. When you

have completed the repairs, clear the result display to 0.

Unless the result display is cleared to 0, the self-diagnostic function will not be able to detect subsequent faults after completion of the repairs.


Clearing the Result Display

To clear the result display to 0, press buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially when the diagnostic screen is displayed, as shown below:

Channel 8 ENTER


Quitting the Self-Diagnostic Screen

To quit the entire self-diagnostic screen, turn off the power switch on the Remote Commander or the main unit.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## Mark Goetz

Sorry... here is what the letters stand for in the self-diagnostic....


--------------------------------------------------------------


+B overcurrent (OCP)

Occurs when excessive current flows through R5013. The increase in voltage across R5013 causes the output of Q5004 to go high, and this high signal goes to the micro.


+B overvoltage (OVP)

IC6505 detects +B OVP condition and turns on Q6522. This sends a high signal to the micro and also shuts down the AC relay.


V-STOP

Occurs when an absence of the vertical deflection pulse is detected by pin 24 of IC2801 (B Board). Power supply will shut down when waveform interval exceeds 2 seconds.


White Balance Failure

If the RGB levels* do not balance within 2 seconds after the power is turned on, this error will be detected by IC2801. TV will stay on, but there will be no picture.

*(Refers to the RGB levels of the AKB detection Ref pulse that detects 1K).


Low B OCP/OVP

Occurs when set 5V is out.


Horizontal Deflection Stopped

Occurs when either:

1) a +B overcurrent is detected (IC5007), or

2) overheating is detected (Thermistor TH5002).


---------------------------------------------------------------








Hope this helps










Thanks

Mark


----------



## mxrider

Well, like many others, I have started researching why my kv40xbr800 won't turn on and I have the 6 blink standby light. I am trying to find the parts for the ic's on the sony website, but all I can find are manuals. Can someone give me a link to where I can order these? I also saw that someone replaced the full Dboard. How difficult ( am fairly handy with tools, etc but never worked on circuit boards before) is it to replace the ic's?


----------



## Shadowknight

I'm consistently getting 6 or 7 blinking lights on my 34xbr910 when I try to turn it on. Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't. I managed to get into the service menu tonight and the values are all set to zero, with the exception of "low b" which is "1". Does this narrow down what part I need to replace? I'd also have to get ahold of the service manual to attempt any repairs, as I opened my set up tonight and have no idea how to get the D board out so I can desolder the two IC's that everyone in this thread has been replacing.


----------



## eclipsedave

mxrider


Please try post #108 -111 for the step-by-step fix.


Parts







2) 18-pin IC Sockets from ALLELECTRONICSDOTCOM 1-800-826-5432 for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60

(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from TRISTATEMODULEDOTCOM 1-800-203-7484 for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23


Total cost: $21.83


It really wasn't that hard to replace the chips. If you need more info, perhaps I can help?


--------------------------------------------------------------------


Shadowknight


Your "Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't." symptom sounds like the same power issue I had. Perhaps the same chips need replaced? Do posts #114 -115 help?


----------



## Shadowknight

Actually, I found posts 114-115 kind of confusing. I know it's quoting from the manual verbatim, and the writers of the original document just weren't clear.


----------



## mxrider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/13863522
> 
> 
> mxrider
> 
> 
> Please try post #108 -111 for the step-by-step fix.
> 
> 
> Parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) 18-pin IC Sockets from ALLELECTRONICSDOTCOM 1-800-826-5432 for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
> 
> (2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from TRISTATEMODULEDOTCOM 1-800-203-7484 for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23
> 
> 
> Total cost: $21.83
> 
> 
> It really wasn't that hard to replace the chips. If you need more info, perhaps I can help?
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Shadowknight
> 
> 
> Your "Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't." symptom sounds like the same power issue I had. Perhaps the same chips need replaced? Do posts #114 -115 help?



TYVM!


All parts now ordered. Will update once I give this a go.


----------



## romadant

So what does it mean if when I hit the power button the TV makes a sound (hard to describe, kinda like bwop) and the red light flashes 3 times and then the picture appears about 3 seconds later? It's done it for over a year - always the exact same and it always works and never fails to power on or display a picture. Just thought the sound and the 3 blinks were strange


----------



## eclipsedave

romadant posted:


So what does it mean if when I hit the power button the TV makes a sound (hard to describe, kinda like bwop) and the red light flashes 3 times and then the picture appears about 3 seconds later? It's done it for over a year - always the exact same and it always works and never fails to power on or display a picture. Just thought the sound and the 3 blinks were strange.

-------------------------------------------------------

eclipsedave sez:


Not kinda. You sir are correct: It _was_ "BWOP!" LOL!







That's the exact same sound mine would make







, except mine would not fully power up and I had to fix it. Posts #108 -111.

-Dave


----------



## romadant

LOL! I'm glad I'm not the only one hearing the BWOP







And now that I double checked last night it's 6 blinks. So, I guess I need to fix this. Or, I could just get the parts and keep the on standby for if/when it finally stops powering up. It BWOPs, blinks, and the pic always apears about 3 seconds later so I kinda feel like just waiting for it to fully go before digging into it...


...then again, it will probably die right when I'm watching something really importain so maybe I should make the fix now and be done with it!


Thanks for the great posts & pics!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *romadant* /forum/post/13873620
> 
> 
> LOL! I'm glad I'm not the only one hearing the BWOP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now that I double checked last night it's 6 blinks. So, I guess I need to fix this. Or, I could just get the parts and keep the on standby for if/when it finally stops powering up. It BWOPs, blinks, and the pic always apears about 3 seconds later so I kinda feel like just waiting for it to fully go before digging into it...
> 
> 
> ...then again, it will probably die right when I'm watching something really importain so maybe I should make the fix now and be done with it!



I think the "BWOP" noise you are both describing is just the automatic degaussing system. If so, that's normal and it's nothing to be concerned about.


And for romadant, I wouldn't attempt to make _any_ repairs as long as your TV is always starting. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


----------



## Shadowknight

Is there anywhere on-line with instruction on how to dissassemble a 34xbr910 so I can remove the D-board so I can replace the two ICs that are known to go bad?


----------



## romadant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/13873921
> 
> 
> I think the "BWOP" noise you are both describing is just the automatic degaussing system. If so, that's normal and it's nothing to be concerned about.
> 
> 
> And for romadant, I wouldn't attempt to make _any_ repairs as long as your TV is always starting. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.



Good advice... and I'm going to take it. I won't mess with it until it becomes a real problem. The 3 second delay doesn't seem to matter much. Thanks!


----------



## Shadowknight

UGH!! There's a screw holding the d-board in, way at the back, and since I can't see where it is, I can't get the screw out!


Is there a schematic somewhere I can look at? Is there a way for me to pull the board out in the "service position" I've occasionally heard about? I've had to unplug a bunch of cables to get relatively decent access to the board, and I'm thinking there HAS to be an easier way. It's going to be a ***** to plug some of those cables back in, given that some are plugged into the very back of the board.


----------



## mxrider

Well, I'm happy to say that my wonderful tv has it's great picture again! I left the television on the stand that I got with the tv and was able to access one of the chips underneath. I installed a socket first then plugged the new chip in. I figured I'd give it a try since I was going to have to take the tv off of the stand to access the second chip and walah! Now I have an extra chip and an 18 pin socket for future use. Thank you all for your help!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mxrider* /forum/post/13894615
> 
> 
> Well, I'm happy to say that my wonderful tv has it's great picture again! I left the television on the stand that I got with the tv and was able to access one of the chips underneath. I installed a socket first then plugged the new chip in. I figured I'd give it a try since I was going to have to take the tv off of the stand to access the second chip and walah! Now I have an extra chip and an 18 pin socket for future use. Thank you all for your help!



Congratulations on your successful repair!


One great thing about installing the socket is that, if that IC should ever fail, installing a replacement will be very easy.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/13885556
> 
> 
> UGH!! There's a screw holding the d-board in, way at the back, and since I can't see where it is, I can't get the screw out!
> 
> 
> Is there a schematic somewhere I can look at? Is there a way for me to pull the board out in the "service position" I've occasionally heard about? I've had to unplug a bunch of cables to get relatively decent access to the board, and I'm thinking there HAS to be an easier way. It's going to be a ***** to plug some of those cables back in, given that some are plugged into the very back of the board.



Actually there is NO screws holding the board chassis in the frame, it is clips...

hmmmmmm I don't know if this will help?

I believe with these TVs that they are all the same...


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/13863559
> 
> 
> Actually, I found posts 114-115 kind of confusing. I know it's quoting from the manual verbatim, and the writers of the original document just weren't clear.



Sorry







about that shadowknight.... It is out of the manual. Just to basically show what Sony says what the blinks mean... Now as to what we have been covering here (for the most part), is that when your TV has certain blinks and won't come on. Is it is probably the MCZ3001D chip(s), but in no way is a sure thing







.........


I hope I didn't discourage you or anyone reading those post and am sorry for that.


Thanks to everyone here











PS: true. it may not be word for word, and that could have been from my cut and paste, too.







In next post I will attach a copy of those pages and maybe it will make more sense?


----------



## Mark Goetz

I hope this explains it better.... Before I just tried to paste it here and maybe that was a bad idea









Sorry! for any confusion.


----------



## Scuff

I have a 36xbr800. I was getting the 7 flashes, I replaced the 2 mcz3001d chips on the "D" board with mcz3001db chips. I noticed that some of the pins were not soldered to the board on the original chips. So I marked those non soldered pins and did NOT solder them with the new chips. After I put it back together, the TV now gives me three flahes from the LED. I read on here or somewhere that 3 flashes means just the one mcz3001db is malfunctioning. Does anyone know if im getting better or worse in the tv repair situation?

ALSO does anyone have a close up picture of the two chip soldered to the board so I can see what pins the solder bubbles make contact with other areas on the "D" board.


Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scuff* /forum/post/13935993
> 
> 
> I have a 36xbr800. I was getting the 7 flashes, I replaced the 2 mcz3001d chips on the "D" board with mcz3001db chips. I noticed that some of the pins were not soldered to the board on the original chips. So I marked those non soldered pins and did NOT solder them with the new chips. After I put it back together, the TV now gives me three flahes from the LED. I read on here or somewhere that 3 flashes means just the one mcz3001db is malfunctioning. Does anyone know if im getting better or worse in the tv repair situation?
> 
> ALSO does anyone have a close up picture of the two chip soldered to the board so I can see what pins the solder bubbles make contact with other areas on the "D" board.
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.



Scuff, you can just solder them all. cause they weren't on original is just because they do nothing. I had soldered all pins on mine and makes no difference. As for it giving you 3 flashes instead of 7, probably means soldering is bad or 1 or both chips are bad (would be my best guess).


Did you save old ICs? Did you buy any extra ICs?

If you say yes (either question), then replace those until you have same problem (original 7 flashes) or is fixed.

Putting old ICs back in, could just indicate bad soldering or bad IC.

Replacing one at a time (with new), indicates that one of your new replacements is bad (it happens, could get a bad IC from factory or part supplier).


Good luck











I almost forgot to mention there is another mcz3001d chip on the A-board. I have read somewhere before that it is another possible cause for errors


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/13950442
> 
> 
> Scuff, you can just solder them all. cause they weren't on original is just because they do nothing. I had soldered all pins on mine and makes no difference.
> 
> 
> I almost forgot to mention there is another mcz3001d chip on the A-board. I have read somewhere before that it is another possible cause for errors



I agree. Solder all of the pins.


And yes, there is a third MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board of some models. I know that there's one on the A-Board of my KV-36XBR400. A technician at a local authorized Sony service center once told me that 3rd IC is sometimes the cause of the power up problems. He also said that some unsuccessful repairs are the result of this IC being missed as a potential problem. (IC6501 on the D-Board was the culprit on my set.)


----------



## waduncan

Thank you for the information provided in this thread. My KV-36XBR400 had the seven flashes problem and a quick search on Google took me to this thread.


I ordered four chips from TSM (two replacements for future), four sockets from Radio Shack (four incase I messed up the soldering of the sockets), and some .036 60/40 solder. All total I think my bill + shipping was ~$33. That beats the pants off of the local repair guy that wanted $50 to come out to look at it. When I told him what the problem probably was, based on information on this site, I was told that IF (with his emphases heavily on IF) this is the problem, it would cost between $250-$400 depending on what else he finds.


A little history on me, which may provide hope to those that are nervous about doing this:

I have never soldered in my life. I have never desoldered in my life. While I have assembled my own computers before, all I did was plug things into sockets on the MB, never have I actually "built" the components. This whole thing was new to me. However after reading this entire thread (at least three times), I figured I would give it a shot. I took the photos that eclipsedave provided along with the information provided by RobertF, printed it out, ordered the parts, and went to it

...

...

...

ok that was a lie. I ACTUALLY went down to my local Radio Shack and purchased a breadboard and a few small components (two resistors, two 8 pin sockets, and one 8 pin chip). I then spent an hour or so each night for four nights soldering and desoldering the parts until I understood what needed to be done. The "test" parts costs me roughly $20 but it was well worth it. When I actually was in the TV and desoldering, I just kept thinking back to what I had done in practice. A funny thing: During practice I found that the solder pump worked much better than the wick....however during the actual desoldering on the TV I found the wick to work 1000% better. I had four total pins that would not cleanly desolder, but once again falling back to this thread (and the pinball machine article RobertF/Bob wrote), I remembered the suggestion to resolder those and try again...sure enough they came right out. I found the soldering part to be much much easier than the desoldering.


Some tips for folks like me:

1) Place the TV on its face. I tried to place it on its top but it would not balance, plus im not sure this is good for the TV.

2) If your TV is like mine, you will need to not only cut the bar of plastic that eclipsedave showed in his picture, but you will also need to cut away a little of the base "plate" (plastic). I could not get my board to move out enough to not cut this base plate, but a quick cut with the high speed grinder took care of that.

3) Practice on either some old components you have laying around (like an old modem), or purchase a breadboard and some cheap components from Radio Shack. The practice here will help, lord knows it helped me.

4) READ THIS ENTIRE THREAD and print out eclipsedave's pictures.

5) READ THIS ENTIRE THREAD and read RobertF's pinball repair PDF.

6) Read #4 and #5 again.

7) Remember to ground yourself before you handle the board or any of the chips.

8) Take your time, esp when desoldering. If one wont come clean, stop, let the part/board cool. Resolder the pin, stop, let the part/board cool. Then desolder again.

9) THIS IS A GOOD ONE I THINK : If you are going to use sockets like I did, make sure you "fit" the chips into the sockets BEFORE you solder the sockets into place. I am sure all of the pros on this forum are giggling as they read this, but I did not "fit" my first chip into the socket and spent probably 10 minutes trying to get it to fit into the socket. Finally I took it and fitted it into the other socket (that I had not soldered yet) and what do you know, it went right in after that.


Anyway, thanks again for the awesome information. Another 250lb TV is working instead of making its way to a dump somewhere.



**EDIT** I forgot to mention that I just used my dads old 15w solder iron, worked like a champ. I wanted to get a nice temp controlled one, but no more soldering than I plan to do I figured the borrowed 15w one would be fine







.


----------



## RobertF

waduncan,


Congratulations on your successful repair! And thank you for taking the time to detail your experience. I am sure that will help others with their repair attempts.


And I should note that I did not write that excellent pinball repair/soldering guide. I just provided a link to it.










Here's the link again:

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/ 


I think the author's name is Clay Harrell.


Bob


----------



## bldrnr

Guys,

I have read thru the post but am not sure what the solution is to the TV problem I have


I have a Sony kv36xbr400 tv that does the following


When left overnight not connected to outlet, the tv comes on for 15 minutes. I have video and sound and then it powers off automatically. Trying to power it up again brings the tv up with 5 blinks for few seconds and then goes off again. I kept trying to bring it up and same thing keeps happening.


If left overnight again, works for few minutes.


I had a tech come over and he said that there were no faults listed in the diagnostics. He believes it is on the d board but can't tell what it is. I dropped the tv over to his shop and he called stating that he could not tell what was wrong. The tech believes something is telling the computer to shutoff the TV to avoid damage to some part.


I am just looking for any advice in case someone has seen this before.


Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bldrnr* /forum/post/13978483
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I have read thru the post but am not sure what the solution is to the TV problem I have
> 
> 
> I have a Sony kv36xbr400 tv that does the following
> 
> 
> When left overnight not connected to outlet, the tv comes on for 15 minutes. I have video and sound and then it powers off automatically. Trying to power it up again brings the tv up with 5 blinks for few seconds and then goes off again. I kept trying to bring it up and same thing keeps happening.
> 
> 
> If left overnight again, works for few minutes.
> 
> 
> I had a tech come over and he said that there were no faults listed in the diagnostics. He believes it is on the d board but can't tell what it is. I dropped the tv over to his shop and he called stating that he could not tell what was wrong. The tech believes something is telling the computer to shutoff the TV to avoid damage to some part.
> 
> 
> I am just looking for any advice in case someone has seen this before.
> 
> 
> Thanks



So has the tech given up on a repair? Is it an authorized Sony repair shop? Is he familiar with the fairly common MCZ3001D failures.


What many repair shops attempt is to replace the D-Board but the cost for that would probably exceed the cost of a working replacement TV of the same model.


Is the TV still at the repair shop? If so, you might want to have the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D-Board replaced and see if that solves the problem. Of course, check on the total cost of that repair before proceeding. The ICs themselves can be found for $5 or $6 each online.


Or you could attempt to replace those yourself.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## bldrnr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/13979454
> 
> 
> So has the tech given up on a repair? Is it an authorized Sony repair shop? Is he familiar with the fairly common MCZ3001D failures.
> 
> 
> What many repair shops attempt is to replace the D-Board but the cost for that would probably exceed the cost of a working replacement TV of the same model.
> 
> 
> Is the TV still at the repair shop? If so, you might want to have the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D-Board replaced and see if that solves the problem. Of course, check on the total cost of that repair before proceeding. The ICs themselves can be found for $5 or $6 each online.
> 
> 
> Or you could attempt to replace those yourself.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> Bob



Bob,

Thanks for the quick reply. The tech already replaced the MCZ3001D and that did not solve the problem. He has basically given up on the set since he does not see the problem. I was just trying to save the set.


Like I said no diagnostic errors.



Pushkar


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bldrnr* /forum/post/13979824
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. The tech already replaced the MCZ3001D and that did not solve the problem. He has basically given up on the set since he does not see the problem. I was just trying to save the set.
> 
> 
> Like I said no diagnostic errors.
> 
> 
> 
> Pushkar



Did he replace both of the D-Board MCZ3001D ICs?


And there's also a third one on the A-Board that a repair tech at an authorized Sony repair center once told me could also cause power up problems. HE said that sometimes that one is missed as a possible cause.


If the tech is fairly convinced that the problem is on the D-Board, you could send it off to an outfit like tristatemodule.com: http://tristatemodule.com/ 


But that might not be worth the cost. About a year and a half ago they quoted me $150 to repair the D-Board for a KV-36XBR400. And you have to pay shipping both ways.


----------



## Mark Goetz

Thank You RobertF










Yes! The MCZ3001D on the A-board can very well be the cause. As we are all finding out it is a faulty IC (High failure rate), the replacement is MCZ3001DB...

I would ask him to try replacing that one first, before giving up on it











Good luck with it







Hope everything goes well, bldrnr.

Also, You weren't really clear (I think) with the blinks.... Does it blink 5 times after it turns off on you? And do be sure it repeats, it should repeat endlessly (or until you turn off via remote/power button or is unplugged). It will blink when you turn it on, it is just indicating it is on but is warming up and degaussing the tube.


----------



## quetzalandia

I forgot how the cables were connected in the inside


any one has pictures of where the connectors and cables goes?


thanks


----------



## Shadowknight

Well, that was fun. I just had a tv repairman come by to look at my set. Apparently, the D-board wasn't seated properly, so a hairline crack was causing the problems with the picture not showing up. Now, I did try to take the board out a few weeks ago, so it's possible I cracked it when trying (and failing) to remove the board. On the other hand, I couldn't even get the TV to turn on anymore even before that point, and once he tapped on the board while the TV was on, the picture would show up, so it's possible that the ICs didn't go bad, or maybe they went bad at the same time the stress fracture started causing problems with the board. Someone had definetly opened that set up before I bought it, as the cabinet was missing a bunch of screws. Anyway, it'll take 3-4 weeks for them to send the board out to get repaired and back in my set


----------



## Mark Goetz

Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me







Did you move it recently?


quetzalandia, Which cables? All of them or just the d-board cables/connectors?


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14049361
> 
> 
> Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you move it recently?



Nope. Really, it worked fine for 3-4 months after I bought it in December, but the repair guy said that if there was a stress crack from someone messing with the TV before I bought it, it may have just taken months for the damage to hit a critical point where it wouldn't power on anymore. I know someone had messed with it before due to all the missing screws that's supposed to hold the plastic cover to the frame around the tube.


I guess the moral of the story is to avoid pawn shops like the plague when it comes to buying a TV.


----------



## Scuff

In reply to my May 23 post on the Sony 36xbr800, I got sick of messing with the 3 blinker and took my chassis to a local repair shop. It cost me 150.00, got it back in less than a week, put it back in the tv in about 15 minutes, reconnected the two cut wires I cut on the Flyback, and it fired right up. So im out about 180 counting the parts I had ordered when I tried to fix it myself the first time. I guess the solder connections were bad and it needed two new resistors also. If this tv didnt have such a great picture for Halo 2 and 3, and Call of Duty 4 I would have junked it, or sold it to one of you guys, LOL.

Thanks for the help though.


If HD CRT's have a better picture than LCD's why did they become extinct? I was thinking the weight issues of CRT's and the desire to hang 'em on the wall. Any other ideas?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scuff* /forum/post/14050951
> 
> 
> In reply to my May 23 post on the Sony 36xbr800, I got sick of messing with the 3 blinker and took my chassis to a local repair shop. It cost me 150.00, got it back in less than a week, put it back in the tv in about 15 minutes, reconnected the two cut wires I cut on the Flyback, and it fired right up. So im out about 180 counting the parts I had ordered when I tried to fix it myself the first time. I guess the solder connections were bad and it needed two new resistors also. If this tv didnt have such a great picture for Halo 2 and 3, and Call of Duty 4 I would have junked it, or sold it to one of you guys, LOL.
> 
> Thanks for the help though.
> 
> 
> If HD CRT's have a better picture than LCD's why did they become extinct? I was thinking the weight issues of CRT's and the desire to hang 'em on the wall. Any other ideas?



$150 is pretty reasonable for a successful repair. Congratulations on that.


I think screen size is the big driver behind the success of the new displays. CRTs maxed out at about 40" while plasmas, LCDs, DLPs can be much larger.


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14049361
> 
> 
> Shadowknight, Sorry to hear that, thats a first for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you move it recently?
> 
> 
> quetzalandia, Which cables? All of them or just the d-board cables/connectors?



Yo Mark,

Quetzalandia emailed me for other pics of my repair and he last emailed stating that he was able to fix his set! I think it's so cool. You helped me, which helped him, etc...The beat goes on! Another TV ripped from the clutches of the landfill

-Dave


----------



## Dreamcazman

Hi guys, I have a KV-HR32M31 76cm CRT (I think it's the same as the XBR910) that decided to go on the blink the other day. My wife was playing an Xbox game and then turned it off as normal, when I went to turn it back on again in a couple of hours, the green LED would blink 10 times, I could hear the station (I wanted to watch TV) and then it turned itself off and then showed 10 red blinks. So it was first 10 green, then 10 red.


When I left it unplugged overnight, it turned on the next morning perfectly. If I turn it off with the remote it won't turn on again in a few hours. Now if I turn it off with the main switch, it does come on again even with the power plug left plugged into the mains.


I've got part of the service manual here which basically only covers the service menu codes, but it does show that 10 blinks could be either the FBT (hope to God it's not that), IC8002 (which is the MCZ3001DB) or two transistors Q8013, 8014 which are both the same K2842.


I've gone over the D board resoldering any possible dry solder joints on these components but it didn't seem to have helped.


I've ordered two replacement MCZ3001DB's and two K2842's from Sony Aust and they'll be here next week. I'm confident that the IC is the fault after reading many posts about these chips failing.


I used to fix TV's so this repair should be a no-brainer










Any other things that could possibly cause this problem?


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dreamcazman* /forum/post/14071432
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I have a KV-HR32M31 76cm CRT (I think it's the same as the XBR910) that decided to go on the blink the other day. My wife was playing an Xbox game and then turned it off as normal, when I went to turn it back on again in a couple of hours, the green LED would blink 10 times, I could hear the station (I wanted to watch TV) and then it turned itself off and then showed 10 red blinks. So it was first 10 green, then 10 red.
> 
> 
> When I left it unplugged overnight, it turned on the next morning perfectly. If I turn it off with the remote it won't turn on again in a few hours. Now if I turn it off with the main switch, it does come on again even with the power plug left plugged into the mains.
> 
> 
> I've got part of the service manual here which basically only covers the service menu codes, but it does show that 10 blinks could be either the FBT (hope to God it's not that), IC8002 (which is the MCZ3001DB) or two transistors Q8013, 8014 which are both the same K2842.
> 
> 
> I've gone over the D board resoldering any possible dry solder joints on these components but it didn't seem to have helped.
> 
> 
> I've ordered two replacement MCZ3001DB's and two K2842's from Sony Aust and they'll be here next week. I'm confident that the IC is the fault after reading many posts about these chips failing.
> 
> 
> I used to fix TV's so this repair should be a no-brainer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other things that could possibly cause this problem?



To be on the safe side, pick up some 18-pin sockets from Radio Shack. That way, you don't have to worry about damaging the new ICs while soldering, and it'll make it a lot easier to replace them in the future.


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/14074168
> 
> 
> To be on the safe side, pick up some 18-pin sockets from Radio Shack. That way, you don't have to worry about damaging the new ICs while soldering, and it'll make it a lot easier to replace them in the future.



That's exactly what I'm going to do










Just for the record. The TV won't turn on at all now, even when it was switched off.


I've already got the sockets (I bought spares) so while I'm waiting for the IC's to turn up, I might go ahead and remove the old ones and install the socket so I can simply plug the new IC in when it arrives and fingers crossed


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/14070212
> 
> 
> Yo Mark,
> 
> Quetzalandia emailed me for other pics of my repair and he last emailed stating that he was able to fix his set! I think it's so cool. You helped me, which helped him, etc...The beat goes on! Another TV ripped from the clutches of the landfill
> 
> -Dave



That is cool dave







. I and many others on here are glade to be of service







.


Your welcome and thanks to everyone here


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dreamcazman* /forum/post/14078757
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I'm going to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for the record. The TV won't turn on at all now, even when it was switched off.
> 
> 
> I've already got the sockets (I bought spares) so while I'm waiting for the IC's to turn up, I might go ahead and remove the old ones and install the socket so I can simply plug the new IC in when it arrives and fingers crossed



Good luck with the repair, hope it is the problem (most likely, but never know). Although, not sure about the 10 blinks, but could be, I don't know about 910 sets.


----------



## Dreamcazman

Just thought I'd let you guys know how the repair went. I got my stuff today and replaced both transistors and the IC8002 and now it's working like a charm! I'm stoked!










I've still got the back off it to make sure it's all good, but I've restarted it once or twice since the repair and everything seems fine.


I'd say it was the IC all along though I'm not 100% sure. Seeing as the transistors could cause this problem too I'd thought I might as well replace them as this TV is our main lounge room set and I had to get it up and running ASAP. If I didn't replace them, more than likely they would've been the cause.







You know how it is - Murphy's law.


Thanks for all the help!


----------



## spiff23542

I'm not sure what I ever did without the internet. Thanks to all for starting and keeping this wonderful thread alive. I have been struggling with my KD34XBR960 for the last year and a half with it refusing to turn on from time to time. Unplugging power for a few seconds and plugging it back in has been my reasonable course of action but it has been getting progressively worse. Now it won't come on at all... 6 blinks now taunt me. I have placed my order for four MCZ3001D chips and will be stopping by Radio Shack on the way home to pick up a few parts in preparation for repair. I will give you guys a heads up, hopefully next week, with the status of my repairs.


-kb


----------



## RobertF

Dreamcazman,


Congratulations on your successful repair!


And best of luck to spiff23542 on your repair!


If you haven't done a lot of soldering, also check out the soldering tips I posted here:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic...._page_number=7 


Bob


----------



## the juggernaut

My mother's XBR went out. First it was six blinks, now seven. I ordered the parts (chips and sockets) and supplies (15w soldering iron, soldapullt, solder, chip puller, etc.), but have never soldered. Started practicing with paper clips last night and don't feel that my skills are up to the task. Any suggestions?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the juggernaut* /forum/post/14135743
> 
> 
> My mother's XBR went out. First it was six blinks, now seven. I ordered the parts (chips and sockets) and supplies (15w soldering iron, soldapullt, solder, chip puller, etc.), but have never soldered. Started practicing with paper clips last night and don't feel that my skills are up to the task. Any suggestions?



See my post directly above yours for a link to some soldering tips that I posted over on Agoraquest under my "BobF" user ID. See also the pinball repair soldering tips link that I provided in that same post:

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/ 


One excellent way to improve your skills is to practice soldering and de-soldering ICs on an old circuit board. Pay particular attention de-soldering as many find that removing old components is more challenging than installing new ones. I know that I did.


And read the excellent tips in this thread also!


Bob


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/14074168
> 
> 
> To be on the safe side, pick up some 18-pin sockets from Radio Shack. That way, you don't have to worry about damaging the new ICs while soldering, and it'll make it a lot easier to replace them in the future.



Aack! Do not use sockets. They eventually lead to problems with poor connections unless they are extremely well made and identical in material to the pins on the ICs. You will not damage an IC by soldering it in. Long before you damage a chip you will damage the traces on the board. If you can get the old IC out without damage to the pc board, you will be able to solder it in with no problem.


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dreamcazman* /forum/post/14071432
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I have a KV-HR32M31 76cm CRT (I think it's the same as the XBR910) that decided to go on the blink the other day. My wife was playing an Xbox game and then turned it off as normal, when I went to turn it back on again in a couple of hours, the green LED would blink 10 times, I could hear the station (I wanted to watch TV) and then it turned itself off and then showed 10 red blinks. So it was first 10 green, then 10 red.
> 
> 
> When I left it unplugged overnight, it turned on the next morning perfectly. If I turn it off with the remote it won't turn on again in a few hours. Now if I turn it off with the main switch, it does come on again even with the power plug left plugged into the mains.
> 
> 
> I've got part of the service manual here which basically only covers the service menu codes, but it does show that 10 blinks could be either the FBT (hope to God it's not that), IC8002 (which is the MCZ3001DB) or two transistors Q8013, 8014 which are both the same K2842.
> 
> 
> I've gone over the D board resoldering any possible dry solder joints on these components but it didn't seem to have helped.
> 
> 
> I've ordered two replacement MCZ3001DB's and two K2842's from Sony Aust and they'll be here next week. I'm confident that the IC is the fault after reading many posts about these chips failing.
> 
> 
> I used to fix TV's so this repair should be a no-brainer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other things that could possibly cause this problem?



The MCZ3001DB is available under a Hitachi part number (CP08451U) for far less than the Sony supplied part. They are identical parts from the same OEM. In fact, for a while, you cold get the updated DB version from Hitachi while Sony was still supplying the D version. It is also available under other part numbers, but one should make sure that it is an OEM part not a cheap copy. I have not heard of counterfeits on this chip yet, but it is inevitable on such a popular part.


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14137033
> 
> 
> The MCZ3001DB is available under a Hitachi part number (CP08451U) for far less than the Sony supplied part. They are identical parts from the same OEM. In fact, for a while, you cold get the updated DB version from Hitachi while Sony was still supplying the D version. It is also available under other part numbers, but one should make sure that it is an OEM part not a cheap copy. I have not heard of counterfeits on this chip yet, but it is inevitable on such a popular part.



Thanks for the reply. I didn't know who else I could get the parts quickly from here in Australia. They weren't cheap but I needed it up an running ASAP. If it was a spare TV I would've gotten some off eBay, but that Hitachi number is a good one to remember. Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14137033
> 
> 
> The MCZ3001DB is available under a Hitachi part number (CP08451U) for far less than the Sony supplied part. They are identical parts from the same OEM. In fact, for a while, you cold get the updated DB version from Hitachi while Sony was still supplying the D version. It is also available under other part numbers, but one should make sure that it is an OEM part not a cheap copy. I have not heard of counterfeits on this chip yet, but it is inevitable on such a popular part.



Thanks for listing the Hitachi part number for the MCZ3001DB.


You also wrote that the "DB" version is an "updated" part. Do you know how exactly it has been updated? I've seen speculation that the update addresses the reliability issue with the original "D" variant but I've never been able to find any hard information on that.


And the ICs are very expensive if you buy them through Sony. But you can buy the both the "MCZ3001D" and "MCZ3001DB" ICs for $6 or less each through other online sources such as eBay. I bought five MCZ3001D ICs through eBay and the price was about $4.50 each with shipping. I still have three spares left over after my repair.


On the use of sockets, I've had no issues since I installed two of them in my KV-36XBR400 in 2006. My TV contiues to work perfectly. And I used inexpensive 18 pin sockets that I purchased at my local Fry's for less than $1.00 for a pair.


And I haven't seen any other "poor connection" problem reports from anyone that has successfully repaired their TVs with sockets. I'm not suggesting that such problems can't happen but I just haven't seen any reports of that.


But I have seen _many_ reports of the ICs themselves failing. I'd rather take a risk that the the IC itself would fail before a connection problem developed with the socket. In that event, replacing an IC that's installed in a socket is a snap.


So if I did it all over again today, I would still use sockets.


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14142386
> 
> 
> Thanks for listing the Hitachi part number for the MCZ3001DB.
> 
> 
> You also wrote that the "DB" version is an "updated" part. Do you know how exactly it has been updated? I've seen speculation that the update addresses the reliability issue with the original "D" variant but I've never been able to find any hard information on that.
> 
> 
> And the ICs are very expensive if you buy them through Sony. But you can buy the both the "MCZ3001D" and "MCZ3001DB" ICs for $6 or less each through other online sources such as eBay. I bought five MCZ3001D ICs through eBay and the price was about $4.50 each with shipping. I still have three spares left over after my repair.
> 
> 
> On the use of sockets, I've had no issues since I installed two of them in my KV-36XBR400 in 2006. My TV contiues to work perfectly. And I used inexpensive 18 pin sockets that I purchased at my local Fry's for less than $1.00 for a pair.
> 
> 
> And I haven't seen any other "poor connection" problem reports from anyone that has successfully repaired their TVs with sockets. I'm not suggesting that such problems can't happen but I just haven't seen any reports of that.
> 
> 
> But I have seen _many_ reports of the ICs themselves failing. I'd rather take a risk that the the IC itself would fail before a connection problem developed with the socket. In that event, replacing an IC that's installed in a socket is a snap.
> 
> 
> So if I did it all over again today, I would still use sockets.



I do not know what the change was in the "B" version, but I can tell you that we had several repeat failures on early sets fixed with the parts from Sony that were not the newer version. We have had no recalls since we started using the "B" version chips.


You may never have a problem with the sockets. They are generally a bad idea, based on years of experience with electronics repairs. My concern with the sockets is that you may end up with failure modes that induce not only IC failures but failures in the FETs that they drive. It just is not that big of a deal to install them properly.


Buying parts from Ebay is a bad idea. It is the first place that the cheap copies of popular parts begin to show up. Stick with the reputable vendors that are careful about the sources of their parts. Use B&D, ACME, Andrews, Tritronics (but not the TT- versions), Union, Excel, and other reputable vendors. The potential savings is simply not worth the risk, as repair techs have discovered many times.


----------



## RobertF

lcaillo,


Thank you very much for the helpful information.


Bob


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14137007
> 
> 
> Aack! Do not use sockets. They eventually lead to problems with poor connections unless they are extremely well made and identical in material to the pins on the ICs. You will not damage an IC by soldering it in. Long before you damage a chip you will damage the traces on the board. If you can get the old IC out without damage to the pc board, you will be able to solder it in with no problem.



I used them too, with no problems.

As Robert said " But I have seen _many_ reports of the ICs themselves failing. I'd rather take a risk that the the IC itself would fail before a connection problem developed with the socket. In that event, replacing an IC that's installed in a socket is a snap."

Still is a personal preference, I guess....








Good Luck!! with your repair 'lcaillo'. And keep practicing 'the juggernaut', as robert suggest to find an old pc board to practice on, or you can go to Radio Shack and buy a board and a cheap IC (I don't think paper clips would be very good to practice on







As they aren't the same as soldering on a pc board or the IC).








'spiff23542' and 'Dreamcazman' Congrats on another successful repair.



Everyone is welcome







That ,of course, was the purpose for this thread. I am very happy to see it is helping people (not everyone, but can't be ideal for all







).


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14145348
> 
> 
> lcaillo,
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the helpful information.
> 
> 
> Bob











SPECIAL THANKS to *ROBERTF*!!!!!!!!!!!









He has be on top of this thread more then me and it is much appreciated


----------



## Partyslammer

Although this is an older nearly 12 year old standard tv, it's been a good tv since day 'til..........tonight. My wife was watching it and accidently hit the remote turning it off. She turned it back on and there's no picture, just sound and the little red (standby?) light at the bottom right just blinks off and on, no rythme, never stops as long as the power's on. The sound is unaffected, I just get no picture no matter how I have it connected to the outside video source. I figure the tv's done, but before I recycle it, I figure it's worth asking around if there's a possible easy fix.


And in the case I need to shop for a new tv in the 34" range, I'd prefer getting a new Sony Wega CRT type monitor despite the size and weight. Anyone know if Sony (or anyone) still puts out CRTs in that size?


Thanks,


T.B.


----------



## lcaillo

Sony does not make CRTs at all any more. Your set likely has a CRT that is getting weak and the set is in IK blanking. It is sometimes possible to restore the CRT and get some additional life out of it, but this also does not work on some CRTs. Find a servicer who has a Sencore CR70 or CR7000 CRT restorer and knows how to use it if you want to try to get some more service out of the set.


----------



## secstate

I concur with lcaillo and have had a friend and a brother who both had Sony TVs that suffered the weak tube issue and it was just as you describe. For what you will pay a professional to look at the set you could probably replace it with a better used CRT from Craigslist.


----------



## lcaillo

I hear this assumption all the time. It may or may not be true, but you never know until you check it out. Call around to the servicers in your area. Compare what you can find used. It may be viable to have it checked out. At least you know what you've got. Buying used can be a gamble just like fixing something. Many of the shops you call may have used sets that they have repaired for sale. These are often much better choices than a complete unknown from a garage sale or Craigs list.


----------



## secstate




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14163114
> 
> 
> I hear this assumption all the time. It may or may not be true, but you never know until you check it out. Call around to the servicers in your area. Compare what you can find used. It may be viable to have it checked out. At least you know what you've got. Buying used can be a gamble just like fixing something. Many of the shops you call may have used sets that they have repaired for sale. These are often much better choices than a complete unknown from a garage sale or Craigs list.



It isn't an assumption in the DC area from my experience but of course YMMV. My brother called three different repairs shops a year ago and they all wanted $75-150 up front before they would even look at the set and this was if he brought it in. If he decided to repair the set that money would be credited to the reapir, if not he was out that money. It appeared at least in DC at least that too many people wouldn't get their sets repaired after getting a free estimate to make it worth the TV repair person's while to do that anymore. He ended up getting a much newer 27" set on CL for less than $100 and is very happy.


Honestly I feel you are taking more of a gamble on a 12 year old set than purchasing a newer used one from CL. If the set was newer I might agree but 12 years is a good life for a set. Maybe if you get a free estimate on repair it is worth checking out but otherwise unless the estimate fee is $50 or less I would just look for a used set from whatever source you are most comfortable with.


----------



## lcaillo

It depends. You can't really discuss making these kinds of decisions intelliently without the specifics of the situation and the sets to compare.


I charge $30 - 50 for an estimate, BTW. It will vary by market and servicer, so the only way to make a good decision, is once again, to get the specifics. Many 12 year old sets would be a better choice than many 3 year old sets and vice versa.


----------



## Partyslammer

The Sony tv that died on me is a KV-32S20 (crt) manufactured in 1996. I called a couple shops and pretty much I'd be looking at shelling out $75 minimum with no guarantee it'd be fixed. I did a quick perusal of my local Craiglist listings and could find at least half a dozen Sony WEGA XBR 32" - 36" models between $200 - $300 manufactured in the past 4 - 6 years all in "excellent" to "minty" condition (various seller's words). I even found 2 40" XBR800's under $400 (which is the same model I have in my living room - outstanding crt, btw). This is just the tv for the bedroom so I'm probably just going to buy one of the used WEGAs I can find locally. I had considered just going for a 40" - 42" Panasonic Plasma but I really can't see spending the money for a 2nd tv.


----------



## johnc_22

I have an KD34XS955 that's about 3.5 years old and just this morning started exhibiting the 6-blink issue. I had the 3 year ext warranty but . . . obviously I am now SOL. I'm kind of bummed I had a 14" Sony TV that outlasted my desire to keep it (19 years) and a Mitsu tube that's over 10 years old and still used daily in my bedroom, and now a really expensive Sony that's dead so quickly.


I know the repair seems simple for those familiar with soldering at the IC level but I'm a software guy, not a hardware guy . . .










Due to the size and weight of this set, and despite the great picture, I've kind of regretted purchasing it as prices on CRTs dropped precipitously after I bought it, and DLPs and LCDs got cheaper and better. I may try to have it repaired but if someone in the Atlanta area wants it and and wants to deal with the repair, PM me. Or, if you know and excellent repair service in Atlanta familiar with this issue, that would be great as well. I can probably pull the D board myself but I'm not sure I want to tackle the soldering myself.


Thanks for the great info in this thread.


----------



## johnc_22

Just checking.


Have I got the board in question correct (see picture)?










I can see the two chips people are replacing - too bad they're not already socketed as my decision of what to do would be easy.


Removing this board does not look like a simple task (to me). I see probably about 9 screws, some of which I'm not sure I have the right tools to get to. I also see a few clips connecting this board to a similar board on the right side of the bottom of the set and assume these must be removed somehow. Then there are a variety of cables that must be removed. Is it easier than it looks?


Sears claims to have this board in stock for a not unreasonable price:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...b%20Components 


It's item #30:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...%20Part%20List 


Thanks again for all the great knowledge around here.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14183705
> 
> 
> Just checking.
> 
> 
> Have I got the board in question correct (see picture)?



Yes, facing the back of the TV, the D-Board is the large board on the left. One good visual cue is the the D-Board has the FBT (Flyback Transformer) which is the large component with the two red wires running to it.


On removing the D-Board, some have actually been able to replace the ICs with the D-Board in place.


Another option is to remove the entire lower chassis assembly, which holds the D-Board and the large adjacent A-Board. That's the method that I used. The chassis is actually designed to slide out for easy servicing. Once the chassis is out, accessing the two MCZ3001D ICs is relatively easy. Like removing the D-Board alone, you will need to disconnect a number of connectors. Most of these are very easy to undo but the two wires that run to the Flyback can sometimes be difficult to remove.


If you do remove the D-Board or the chassis, take some time to label all of the connectors. That will save you a lot of time when you reinstall the board.


On the repair itself, if you're not comfortable with the soldering required, you can send the D-Board off for repair to an outfit like TriStateModule.com:

http://tristatemodule.com/ 


Perhaps you could find a local technician that would install the ICs for you for a fixed fee. (Get an agreement on the fee before the repair is started.)


Another option is to see if Sony has a replacement D-Board available. If they don't have new stock available, they sometimes offer replacements through an exchange program. See this link:

http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/eco.../web/index.jsp 


Here are the repair options that I considered before attempting a repair myself:


- Purchase of a D-Board repair kit from fixyourownTV.com

But I wasn't sure that my D-board was causing the problem. (The repair kit was about $100.)


- Send my D-Board to tristatemodule.com for repair

But, again, I wasn't sure the D-Board was the problem. A D-Board repair would have run about $150 plus shipping both ways. The customer service representative from Tristate suggested that I send in all of the boards to maximize the chances for finding the problem.


- Purchase a replacement D-Board through Sony's exchange program

Again, I wasn't sure the D-Board was the problem and the $243 board replacement cost was pretty steep.


- Pay for local repair by an authorized Sony service center

But the estimated $400 cost was more than the cost of a used replacement of the same exact model.


For more details, see my posts as "BobF" in this Agoraquest thread:

http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?..._page_number=6 


Note that I wasn't sure that my D-Board was even the problem. There are other possible causes for a power on problem that don't involve the D-Board. The diagnostic codes just provide a likely cause for the problem. Keep that in mind before you spend oo much on a D-Board repair.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## secstate




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14177951
> 
> 
> It depends. You can't really discuss making these kinds of decisions intelliently without the specifics of the situation and the sets to compare.
> 
> 
> I charge $30 - 50 for an estimate, BTW. It will vary by market and servicer, so the only way to make a good decision, is once again, to get the specifics. Many 12 year old sets would be a better choice than many 3 year old sets and vice versa.



That estimate fee is more reasonable for sure but what do you charge for a tube recondition? I still stand by my it is cheaper to find a good comparable used Sony set, especially one that has greater capabilities. It is relatively trivial to find a HDTV capable Sony in the $200-300 range these days on CL. Regular NTSC sets are much cheaper I sold my circa 1997 Sony 27" (a midline V-series) on CL for $45 for example. It worked perfectly and was lightly used (we watched one hour of TV a day max on it). There is risk to buying used but is overblown in my opinion. I and several folks I know have purchased many, many electronics items used from Ebay, government surplus organizations and CLs and they have nearly all worked out just fine. To each their own but my by experience is to buy used as it is almost always invariably cheaper than repair for electronics that depreciate a lot like CRT TV and computer monitors.


If we were talking a more high-end set then I would agree get an estimate but for a set that can be replaced for the price of an estimate or nearly so I just don't see it. Why even with your reasonable estimate fee why pay 30-50% the worth of the worth of a set if it was in prefect working condition to find out whether it can be fixed or not. It makes no economic sense. The used price of these sets just does not make them worth repairing I am sorry that is based on watching craigslist for 6 different metro areas and buying and selling two used CRTs in the last 4 months.


----------



## email4eric

Hello,


Firstly, great contributions from all--this is what makes the internet a powerful tool! It's nice to see so many like-minded individuals who avoid throwing things away.


My Sony KB-36XBR400 is now an adolescent "with issues." My questions involve making sure that I understand what the TV is telling me.


Scenario: The set is off and NOT on standby. When turning-on the set using the power button on the set, the light comes-on and blinks 6 and one half times before staying on--that is there are no repeating blink patterns. I assume the staying-on state of the light after the blinking sequence is the set going to standby mode. There is no sound and no picture.


Anyone know what this means? After reading this thread, it appears that these trouble lights appear for folks in a repeating pattern. Mine are not repeating.


Another question that I have involves the degaussing sound "bwump" that is heard when powering-up. Mine was doing that while experiencing the above scenario but now is no longer doing even that. I now only hear some clicks when attempting to power-on. Does this mean more bad things have developed beyond the original problem?


I should also mention that originally, the set would sometimes not power on so I started leaving it on and just interrupting the cable feed when not in use (effectively keeping the set on). This worked for months until the set conked-out completely. Then I could turn it on (no picture, no sound) and hear the bwump sound and get the 6.5 flashes and then steady light. Now I get no bwump and the 6.5 flashes before the steady light.


Just trying to understand what the set is "telling me" prior to delving into chip replacement or board swapping. I'm in graduate school and can't afford to replace the set or have someone else fix it. Plus, I hate throwing things away and pride myself on fixing that which most would throw away. In fact, I got this set for a couple of hundred bucks and like the idea of keeping it going. I haven't seen much that equals the PQ.


Advice? I do have some Sears gift certificates that would make replacement boards practical if the set is worth throwing money at it.


Thanks up front! Great thread of knowledge here.


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14184298
> 
> 
> - Purchase of a D-Board repair kit from fixyourownTV.com
> 
> But I wasn't sure that my D-board was causing the problem. (The repair kit was about $100.)
> 
> 
> - Send my D-Board to tristatemodule.com for repair
> 
> But, again, I wasn't sure the D-Board was the problem. A D-Board repair would have run about $150 plus shipping both ways. The customer service representative from Tristate suggested that I send in all of the boards to maximize the chances for finding the problem.
> 
> 
> - Purchase a replacement D-Board through Sony's exchange program
> 
> Again, I wasn't sure the D-Board was the problem and the $243 board replacement cost was pretty steep.



Yeah, like I said, Sears claims to have the entire D-Board in stock for less than $200 so if I can figure out how to remove it I may go that route. I'm tempted to try soldering it, but frankly I live in a condo and that behemoth of a set in a non-functioning state is going to be a constant PITA until it's repaired or replaced so my patience is limited. I will look at the other thread to see if I can figure out how to remove the D-Board and how the slide out assembly works. I build my own computers so replacing a board doesn't scare me as much as resoldering chips.


I read that unplugging the red flyback cable from the tube itself is possible but if I replace the entire D-Board I guess I'll need a new cable unless the kit comes with it.


Thanks for all your advice.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14185005
> 
> 
> Yeah, like I said, Sears claims to have the entire D-Board in stock for less than $200 so if I can figure out how to remove it I may go that route. I'm tempted to try soldering it, but frankly I live in a condo and that behemoth of a set in a non-functioning state is going to be a constant PITA until it's repaired or replaced so my patience is limited. I will look at the other thread to see if I can figure out how to remove the D-Board and how the slide out assembly works. I build my own computers so replacing a board doesn't scare me as much as resoldering chips.
> 
> 
> I read that unplugging the red flyback cable from the tube itself is possible but if I replace the entire D-Board I guess I'll need a new cable unless the kit comes with it.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your advice.



Replacing the D-Board is much like replacing a motherboard in a PC. In fact, it's a bit easier since you don't have to remove and replace things like memory and video and sound cards.


On the red flyback wires, some have been able to just pull them out of the flyback. I couldn't quite bring myself to apply the amount of force needed for that as I was concerned that I would break off something inside the flyback. But that might work for you.


In my case, I disconnected the thicker red wire at the other end where the anode cap is mounted on top of the CRT. And I ended up cutting the other, thinner, red wire that runs up to the yoke mounted C-Board. I then spliced that back together after replacing the ICs.


----------



## Dreamcazman

If anyone's interested, the easiest way I found to access the MDZ IC's was to slide the plastic chassis out a bit so I could access the screws holding the D-board down, unscrewed them and unplugged all the clips and connectors. I couldn't go wrong as all the connectors on my set had different pin counts and it was impossible for me to plug a connector into the wrong place.


I unscrewed the small triangular audio board on the side and moved it so it wasn't in the way then gently picked the D-board up, slid it out the side and stood it on it's end with the FBT leads still attached. You can then access the underside of the board easily.


If I could fix the TV without having to unplug the FBT connector on the back of the tube then all the better. I've heard you can damage things if it isn't done properly plus I haven't done it in years and didn't want to risk anything.


----------



## johnc_22

I just had a couple of guys from a local Atlanta repair shop come over for $50. Everyone else wanted $95 just to come over and "look". They showed me how to take the board out, verified that everything was discharged, and said "fix it yourself". So, I'm getting ready to get the replacement board from Sears. I'll be in trouble if their site is lying about the availability of the part because I'll probably have to pull the board and then see about getting it repaired which will cost a similar amount. The new D-Board is a safer bet to fix any underlying problem causing the ICs to fail (if that in fact is what has failed). This was $50 well spent because I now feel much better about DIYing a new board.


Thanks for all the help and advice. I will report back as this progresses. Of course if the new board gets the tv set working I will then feel better about going at the old one with a soldering iron to see if I can possibly repair it for about 2-3 years from now when it craps out again.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *email4eric* /forum/post/14184724
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Firstly, great contributions from all--this is what makes the internet a powerful tool! It's nice to see so many like-minded individuals who avoid throwing things away.
> 
> 
> My Sony KB-36XBR400 is now an adolescent "with issues." My questions involve making sure that I understand what the TV is telling me.
> 
> 
> Scenario: The set is off and NOT on standby. When turning-on the set using the power button on the set, the light comes-on and blinks 6 and one half times before staying on--that is there are no repeating blink patterns. I assume the staying-on state of the light after the blinking sequence is the set going to standby mode. There is no sound and no picture.
> 
> 
> Anyone know what this means? After reading this thread, it appears that these trouble lights appear for folks in a repeating pattern. Mine are not repeating.
> 
> 
> Another question that I have involves the degaussing sound "bwump" that is heard when powering-up. Mine was doing that while experiencing the above scenario but now is no longer doing even that. I now only hear some clicks when attempting to power-on. Does this mean more bad things have developed beyond the original problem?
> 
> 
> I should also mention that originally, the set would sometimes not power on so I started leaving it on and just interrupting the cable feed when not in use (effectively keeping the set on). This worked for months until the set conked-out completely. Then I could turn it on (no picture, no sound) and hear the bwump sound and get the 6.5 flashes and then steady light. Now I get no bwump and the 6.5 flashes before the steady light.
> 
> 
> Just trying to understand what the set is "telling me" prior to delving into chip replacement or board swapping. I'm in graduate school and can't afford to replace the set or have someone else fix it. Plus, I hate throwing things away and pride myself on fixing that which most would throw away. In fact, I got this set for a couple of hundred bucks and like the idea of keeping it going. I haven't seen much that equals the PQ.
> 
> 
> Advice? I do have some Sears gift certificates that would make replacement boards practical if the set is worth throwing money at it.
> 
> 
> Thanks up front! Great thread of knowledge here.




My first and most important question is....

When the TV is powering up, you say you hear the deguassing and the light blinks then, correct??

This happens on mine every time I turn it on (didn't notice before simply because I never paid attention. lol), but is normal. The trouble blinks should occur after that process. And should repeat from then on or until you turn off or unplug.

Second question...

Have you tried to unplug overnight and see what it does the next day? This has sometimes temporally fixed problem, but is by no means a permanent fix







.


I hope this helps









Good Luck



PS: As for secstate problem. I agree with buying a newer version from CL or Ebay (personal preference). As it is true you have to trust the seller, but would be a better bargain then fixing a 12 year old TV







. To each their own







.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14192570
> 
> 
> I just had a couple of guys from a local Atlanta repair shop come over for $50. Everyone else wanted $95 just to come over and "look". They showed me how to take the board out, verified that everything was discharged, and said "fix it yourself". So, I'm getting ready to get the replacement board from Sears. I'll be in trouble if their site is lying about the availability of the part because I'll probably have to pull the board and then see about getting it repaired which will cost a similar amount. The new D-Board is a safer bet to fix any underlying problem causing the ICs to fail (if that in fact is what has failed). This was $50 well spent because I now feel much better about DIYing a new board.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help and advice. I will report back as this progresses. Of course if the new board gets the tv set working I will then feel better about going at the old one with a soldering iron to see if I can possibly repair it for about 2-3 years from now when it craps out again.



Good luck with the replacement D-Board order through Sears! Hopefully their inventory system is up to date for your particular D-Board. Earlier in this thread another forum member ordered an XBR700 D-Board from Sears but they credited him when it turned out to be out of stock.


----------



## email4eric




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14193053
> 
> 
> My first and most important question is....
> 
> When the TV is powering up, you say you hear the deguassing and the light blinks then, correct??
> 
> This happens on mine every time I turn it on (didn't notice before simply because I never paid attention. lol), but is normal. The trouble blinks should occur after that process. And should repeat from then on or until you turn off or unplug.
> 
> Second question...
> 
> Have you tried to unplug overnight and see what it does the next day? This has sometimes temporally fixed problem, but is by no means a permanent fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck
> 
> 
> 
> PS: As for secstate problem. I agree with buying a newer version from CL or Ebay (personal preference). As it is true you have to trust the seller, but would be a better bargain then fixing a 12 year old TV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . To each their own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Well...no--I no longer have any degaussing sound. Also, my flashing light goes through one cycle and then either stays on solid or goes out. The fact that it isn't repeating is what I'm trying to figure-out. What does that mean? Does anyone know what the fact that it no longer degausses means?


I have indeed tried the leave-it-unplugged-overnight approach to no avail. When pressing the power on button, I simply get a coupld of clicks with 6.5 blinks of the light. The the light stays on if I'm powering up manually and turns off if I'm using the remote.


Just trying to figure-out if this is the usual D board problem or something worse. Thankfully, there are about 15 of these used on CL for a couple of hundred. Just a PITA to move and dispose of...


Thanks!


----------



## Ricanmeng

Hello,


I have already replaced both IC's to no avail. The tv show similar symptoms where I turn it on, the screen has a blue hue then blooms to full blue screen then shuts off. This is followed by the 7 blink code. Any ideas before I chuck this beauty?


----------



## Mark Goetz

hmmmmm










I was thinking a fuse, but don't think it would come on at all?????

I did read somewhere else, someone had a similar problem. Although I can't seem to remember where and what the fix was







(sorry! old age lol)....

As soon as it comes to me I will post.


The 6.5 flashes are not a code, it will flash fully 6 or 7 times (2-7 flashes are code. and will flash repeatedly with a 3sec. pause between the code flashes and will give 1 code at a time, until fixed that is, if more then 1 problem).


I believe the problem is on the d-board (could be wrong though). I believe it has to do with the high voltage/fly-back transformer. But don't take my word for it







... If you can get one off CL (same model or very similar). Then it may be worth hanging onto for spare parts (if you got room to keep it).



Good Luck with it or in your search for replacement. Sorry, couldn't be more help. And sometimes it just isn't worth it (for the fact that unless you can find a repair tech to look at and/or fix for a good price. I say it may not be worth the guess that any certain part or board could be the problem







And it certainly isn't worth the money and MAY NOT be the fix).










I really hated saying that. I really don't like to hear that any of these TVs went to landfill!!!!


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ricanmeng* /forum/post/14239254
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have already replaced both ICs to no avail. The tv show similar symptoms where I turn it on, the screen has a blue hue then blooms to full blue screen then shuts off. This is followed by the 7 blink code. Any ideas before I chuck this beauty?



I would first say....

Check and recheck everything. Soldering, connectors/jumpers (depending on how you got to ICs), everything.

Also, it is possible you got a bad IC







.

Did you install sockets and order extra IC or two?

And you say you replaced "both" ICs. Their is another one on the A-board (depending on model) that could be the cause, too.


Not saying this is the problem to start with, but is a good possibility it is one of them. As 7 blinks indicate Horizontal Deflection Stopped and the manual does not give a possible cause







.



Good Luck and hope this helps


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *email4eric* /forum/post/14211281
> 
> 
> Well...no--I no longer have any degaussing sound. Also, my flashing light goes through one cycle and then either stays on solid or goes out. The fact that it isn't repeating is what I'm trying to figure-out. What does that mean? Does anyone know what the fact that it no longer degausses means?
> 
> 
> I have indeed tried the leave-it-unplugged-overnight approach to no avail. When pressing the power on button, I simply get a coupld of clicks with 6.5 blinks of the light. The the light stays on if I'm powering up manually and turns off if I'm using the remote.
> 
> 
> Just trying to figure-out if this is the usual D board problem or something worse. Thankfully, there are about 15 of these used on CL for a couple of hundred. Just a PITA to move and dispose of...
> 
> 
> Thanks!






Also........................

You may want to post a new thread with the problem (if you haven't). As it doesn't seem to be giving you code flashes. Someone may know the problem that isn't checking here, because I really don't believe your getting any code flashes.


Again, Sorry!!! I couldn't be more help to you


----------



## Ricanmeng

I have checked my connections and tested for any shorts. I also have 5 IC's altogether to play with. I am afraid she will be laid to waste in the landfill. I love CRT's and she will be missed. Onward to dark greyish blacks and all so trend WAF.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ricanmeng* /forum/post/14239906
> 
> 
> I have checked my connections and tested for any shorts. I also have 5 IC's altogether to play with. I am afraid she will be laid to waste in the landfill. I love CRT's and she will be missed. Onward to dark greyish blacks and all so trend WAF.




Before giving up altogether, you might want to check out the Television Troubleshooting forum over on Agoraquest.com:

http://agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34 


Try several forum only searches with your model number and/or the symptoms and see what you can find:

http://agoraquest.com/searchbb.php 


And you might also want to post a request for help in that forum with a descriptive thread title. (Put the model number in the title along with a short description of the symptoms.)


For motivation, just remember that if you can fix it you won't have to move it.










Good luck!


Bob


----------



## johnc_22

I received my D-Board this afternoon from Sears. They did in fact have it in stock. I went about replacing it with very little drama. The new board did NOT come with flyback or focus cables so all three cables (on my set there is the large red flyback cable, small red cable and small black or blue cable) had to be forcibly removed from the FBT. Only the flyback cable was really hard to remove, the other two came right out with a decent amount of force. Installed the new board, plugged everything back in and . . . PICTURE!


I will say the set now has some display artifacts (horizontal wavy thin lines) that are only visible when really close to the set, and only in SD (4x3) mode where you have side black bars to notice such things. Additionally the upper left corner (from the from of the TV) seems to have drooped a tiny bit. I think I've also lost some focus. Frankly with what this set has been through, I'm just happy that it is usable. HD looks good but maybe not as sharp as it once was - I'll have to watch more to decide how it really looks as I'm exhausted right now. If anyone has suggestions on how to sort out these issues I'll be willing to try them. For the short term I will let it be as I'm done messing with it and don't feel like unscrewing 17 screws to get to the innards again any time soon.


Total repair cost: $200 for d-board delivered and $50 for some advice on how to dismantle everything. I also have the old d-board and if I want at some point I can try my hand at soldering that, but at this point, if the TV dies again, it's history.


----------



## johnc_22

As a followup to my previous email about my new d-board working, I thought I'd post a representation of the lines that I'm seeing on the screen when on a VIDEO input that is unused. On VIDEO5 where I have my Comcast DVR, it looks like the attached image. On the other inputs the lines are twice as dense (twice as many lines).











Is this interference from something? Perhaps the flyback cable is not correctly inserted into the tube (I did have to remove it and reinsert it, after the set had been powered off for a few days). I tried to take a picture but was too sleepy to take the time to get a good exposure.


Are there any procedures that I should follow after replacing the d-board to restore image quality, or do I need to dig into the service menus for this. Thanks for all the helpful info!


John


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14242722
> 
> 
> As a followup to my previous email about my new d-board working, I thought I'd post a representation of the lines that I'm seeing on the screen when on a VIDEO input that is unused. On VIDEO5 where I have my Comcast DVR, it looks like the attached image. On the other inputs the lines are twice as dense (twice as many lines)....Is this interference from something? Perhaps the flyback cable is not correctly inserted into the tube (I did have to remove it and reinsert it, after the set had been powered off for a few days). I tried to take a picture but was too sleepy to take the time to get a good exposure.
> 
> 
> Are there any procedures that I should follow after replacing the d-board to restore image quality, or do I need to dig into the service menus for this. Thanks for all the helpful info!
> 
> 
> John



This may be a Screen(G2) adjustment issue. Looking at the flyback transformer from the rear, there are 3 adjustment screws. The TOP one is center focus, and the bottom LEFT is G2. Make very small adjustments to G2 while viewing the black screen and adjust until the lines just disappear. If no change is observed, return the adjustment to its original position.


Be Careful of the High Voltages. Don't touch anything on the flyback transformer (except for the screw, with an insulated screwdriver) or the wires connected to it while the set is powered on. Good Luck


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/14242921
> 
> 
> This may be a Screen(G2) adjustment issue. Looking at the flyback transformer from the rear, there are 3 adjustment screws. The TOP one is center focus, and the bottom LEFT is G2. Make very small adjustments to G2 while viewing the black screen and adjust until the lines just disappear. If no change is observed, return the adjustment to its original position.
> 
> 
> Be Careful of the High Voltages. Don't touch anything on the flyback transformer (except for the screw, with an insulated screwdriver) or the wires connected to it while the set is powered on. Good Luck



Thanks - very helpful. I'll probably hold off until this weekend before I take it apart again. I want to collect any recommendations for things that must be done inside the set before I take it apart and put it back together (17 screws is a bit excessive).


Would the "center focus" that you mention above affect the overall sharpness of the picture, particularly in 16:9 aspect? I may just be paranoid but I seem to have lost some sharpness. I also noticed a bit of green shadow on the VIDEO 5 text. These were quick observations by someone in a hurry to get to bed. I'll make more careful observations when I'm at home tonight and watching a good bit of TV.


----------



## RobertF

I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board.


Here's one discussion of this over on Agoraquest that I found via Google:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....d2=electronics 


Specifically, here's what forum member jehill wrote:

_Here's what Sony has to say about it in the training manual:


"Even if old data is transferred, the component tolerances for the drive circuits are different for each board and you will have to re-converge the set anyway. Install the new board and perform the convergence adjustments. Static alignments will be minimally affected and only dynamic adjustments will need to be touched up."_


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14243392
> 
> 
> I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board.
> 
> 
> Here's one discussion of this over on Agoraquest that I found via Google:
> 
> http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....d2=electronics
> 
> 
> Specifically, here's what forum member jehill wrote:
> 
> _Here's what Sony has to say about it in the training manual:
> 
> 
> "Even if old data is transferred, the component tolerances for the drive circuits are different for each board and you will have to re-converge the set anyway. Install the new board and perform the convergence adjustments. Static alignments will be minimally affected and only dynamic adjustments will need to be touched up."_



Re-converge would mean realigning the 3 (RBG) guns? Is this something a novice such as I can/should attempt? Is this a service menu adjustment or a physical adjustment on the rear of the tube? Now I know why people get paid a lot of money to do this!


----------



## RobertF

I'm not sure what exactly "re-converge" means. Perhaps another forum member here can help.


And jehill is still an active member on Agoraquest if you want to post a question there. (You could even respond in the thread I linked above.)


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## upspila

i religiously read this thread over and over. i have a 34xbr800 with the 7 blinking lights. i oredered the revised ic chips, had a friend take out the old chips and replace with sockets. new chips came in and......................bam!!!!

brand new tv. works great. instead of trying to find the defective chip,i replaced both. you guys saved this tv from the trash. by the way, i left the d board in and just flipped the tv on its face and sides to desolder. i had to cut away a piece of plastic to access the underside of the circuit board.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *upspila* /forum/post/14249094
> 
> 
> i religiously read this thread over and over. i have a 34xbr800 with the 7 blinking lights. i oredered the revised ic chips, had a friend take out the old chips and replace with sockets. new chips came in and......................bam!!!!
> 
> brand new tv. works great. instead of trying to find the defective chip,i replaced both. you guys saved this tv from the trash. by the way, i left the d board in and just flipped the tv on its face and sides to desolder. i had to cut away a piece of plastic to access the underside of the circuit board.



Congratulations on your successful repair! Another high end CRT saved from a landfill.


Others have also been able to replace the ICs with the board in place. Nice work with that.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14243392
> 
> 
> I've read previously that there is set specific calibration data stored on an "EEPROM". So it might also be that your calibration data is off since you replaced the entire D-Board........



I believe the Non-Volatile Ram (NVRAM/EEPROM) that stores service menu data is on the B/BY board.


----------



## johnc_22

I went through and performed some service menu fixes last night for overscan. I've wanted to do that to this set for a long time, and I guess now that I have performed pretty major surgery on the set I'm not nearly as hesitant about messing around in the service menus (having read a LOT of stuff on this site beforehand).


I do think I'm going to have to open it up and mess with the FBT Green/Screen(?) (G2) and Focus screws. I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect any arcing from high voltage parts, and will be safe so long as all I touch are those two screws? Any other precautions I should take? Wear rubber gloves? Any screwdriver I use will have a plastic or rubber handle so I'm assuming that I just need to be careful what I touch but should be OK. (Please tell me if I'm wrong!)


Based on what I've seen on the picture, the G2 (it's labeled "Green" on the FBT, but I also see it called "Screen" in some places) is out of whack. The white text on VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc has a greenish tint, and the black levels are not what they were. Additionally I have the display artifacts represented by the image I posted previously in this thread, though from my normal seating position they are very difficult to see, and when in 16x9 mode, impossible to see except during very dark portions of a program or movie.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14252095
> 
> 
> I went through and performed some service menu fixes last night for overscan. I've wanted to do that to this set for a long time, and I guess now that I have performed pretty major surgery on the set I'm not nearly as hesitant about messing around in the service menus (having read a LOT of stuff on this site beforehand).
> 
> 
> I do think I'm going to have to open it up and mess with the FBT Green (G2) and Focus screws. I'm assuming that I shouldn't expect any arcing from high voltage parts, and will be safe so long as all I touch are those two screws? Any other precautions I should take? Wear rubber gloves? Any screwdriver I use will have a plastic or rubber handle so I'm assuming that I just need to be careful what I touch but should be OK. (Please tell me if I'm wrong!)
> 
> 
> Based on what I've seen on the picture, the G2 (it's labelled "Green" on the FBT) is out of whack. The white text on VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, etc has a greenish tint, and the black levels are not what they were. Additionally I have the display artifacts represented by the image I posted previously in this thread, though from my normal seating position they are very difficult to see, and when in 16x9 mode, impossible to see except during very dark portions of a program or movie.



Thanks for the update.


Did you see any improvements with the service menu adjustments?


And how difficult did you find that process?


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14252158
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update.
> 
> 
> Did you see any improvements with the service menu adjustments?
> 
> 
> And how difficult did you find that process?



Well, the only changes I affected were overscan, and yes, that made a huge difference on some HD content where I felt like things were being cut off. Of course everything (mainly comcast's channel guide and 4x3 content) looks "smaller" which of course it is because I shrunk it in both directions to make it all (almost all of it) visible. I used the DVE pattern to get it just under 5% overscan. It was obviously a much larger amount before I tweaked it. I do need to use a pattern which will help me detect whether the aspect ratio is correct or not since an adjustment here obviously throws that out of whack. The 4x3 content is now looking more 4x4 (or 1x1) than 4x3 so I think I've probably got some more tweaking to do there.


I also messed with the center focus and other related parameters but did not see any visible improvement so I did not save those settings.


Overall, I think if you read up on what you are doing, and how to do it (as far as how the remote works in conjunction with the service menus) it's a very easy process. But then I write software for a living so I'm ususally not too afraid of getting down into the nitty gritty details when necessary.


I will say I'm still a bit hesitant about messing with the G2 and FOCUS screws on the FBT, only for fear of electrocuting myself, but I guess I'll go for it this weekend some time since G2 is likely the cause of the (what I now believe to be) rescan lines that I'm seeing on black backgrounds. The black levels look way off as well, perhaps greenish, so again, I suspect that G2 adjustments here may help a lot in that area. We'll see, assuming I don't get zapped.


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14253610
> 
> 
> I will say I'm still a bit hesitant about messing with the G2 and FOCUS screws on the FBT, only for fear of electrocuting myself, but I guess I'll go for it this weekend some time since G2 is likely the cause of the (what I now believe to be) rescan lines that I'm seeing on black backgrounds. The black levels look way off as well, perhaps greenish, so again, I suspect that G2 adjustments here may help a lot in that area. We'll see, assuming I don't get zapped.



You will be pretty safe as long as you don't touch anything metal. The whole FBT including the adjustment knobs are plastic (well mine are anyways) so the chance of electrocution are slim. Just make sure you make slight adjustments - just be careful, if you turn them too far it may or may not damage the set.


I'd still get hold of a flat head long plastic screwdriver and use that though instead of your fingers, just in case










I've fiddled with FBT's before on other sets and I'm still alive.


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dreamcazman* /forum/post/14263546
> 
> 
> You will be pretty safe as long as you don't touch anything metal. The whole FBT including the adjustment knobs are plastic (well mine are anyways) so the chance of electrocution are slim. Just make sure you make slight adjustments - just be careful, if you turn them too far it may or may not damage the set.
> 
> 
> I'd still get hold of a flat head long plastic screwdriver and use that though instead of your fingers, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've fiddled with FBT's before on other sets and I'm still alive.



Thanks for the encouraging words. I think I'm going to swing by Lowe's or Home Depot before getting started to get an insulated screwdriver (the ones I've seen are good to 1000V). Looking at the D-Board I removed, it does appear that the adjustment screws are plastic so I think I'll be OK. An ounce of prevention . . . etc.


----------



## jet757f

I have a XBR100 that will not turn on. I get the flashing standby light but there is no code. The light just continues to flash with no pause. First time it happened just unplugged it for awhile and then it came back on. This time it will not come on again. I have some of the extra tuners and tried them but no help. Anyone have any ideas?


Im probably going to advertise this on CraigsList for free at this point. So if you live in So. California let me know.

I already had this TV fixed a couple of years ago so it is not worth doing again to me.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/14266333
> 
> 
> I have a XBR100 that will not turn on. I get the flashing standby light but there is no code. The light just continues to flash with no pause. First time it happened just unplugged it for awhile and then it came back on. This time it will not come on again. I have some of the extra tuners and tried them but no help. *Anyone have any ideas?*



What's the full model number of you TV?


Other than the failure prone MCZ3001D ICs, I would check the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum for posts about your particular model. (I'm not even sure if your XBR100 even has the MCZ3001D ICs.)


My understanding is that the standby indicator blink sequences need to repeat in order to be a diagnostic code. But someone else may have reported the same problem for your model along with a solution.


Good luck!


----------



## jet757f

It is the KV-32XBR100. It is the one that has the separate tuner box.


I did go over to that website but couldnt find anything.

My standby light has no pattern.............just keeps flashing.


----------



## johnc_22

OK, it took about 20 minutes to make some quick adjustments of G2 and FOCUS on the FBT, and I didn't get shocked. I love my TV again. The G2 seriously needs the slightest hair of adjustment to get it right. I used a handheld mirror so I could see the screen while making adjustments to get it just right. I was able to do the same thing with the FOCUS knob. The black levels are back to where they should be for a set of this quality (KD-34XS955). I still have some service menu stuff I want to mess with but other than that I'm a very happy camper.


Thanks so much for everyone's advice. Yet another reason the internet rocks.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/14267021
> 
> 
> It is the KV-32XBR100. It is the one that has the separate tuner box.
> 
> 
> I did go over to that website but couldnt find anything.
> 
> My standby light has no pattern.............just keeps flashing.



Yes, I had the same result. I tried a general Google search and one over at Agoraquest and I couln't find the same problem described.


As a last resort, you might want to post a new thead over on Agoraquest with a descriptive title like " KV-32XBR100 Won't Turn On - Standby Light Flashes Continuously"


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14276191
> 
> 
> OK, it took about 20 minutes to make some quick adjustments of G2 and FOCUS on the FBT, and I didn't get shocked. I love my TV again. The G2 seriously needs the slightest hair of adjustment to get it right. I used a handheld mirror so I could see the screen while making adjustments to get it just right. I was able to do the same thing with the FOCUS knob. The black levels are back to where they should be for a set of this quality (KD-34XS955). I still have some service menu stuff I want to mess with but other than that I'm a very happy camper.
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for everyone's advice. Yet another reason the internet rocks.



That's awesome news! Thanks much for posting an update.


I may tweak my KV-36XBR400 at some point.


Bob


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14276191
> 
> 
> OK, it took about 20 minutes to make some quick adjustments of G2 and FOCUS on the FBT, and I didn't get shocked. I love my TV again. The G2 seriously needs the slightest hair of adjustment to get it right. I used a handheld mirror so I could see the screen while making adjustments to get it just right. I was able to do the same thing with the FOCUS knob. The black levels are back to where they should be for a set of this quality (KD-34XS955). I still have some service menu stuff I want to mess with but other than that I'm a very happy camper.
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for everyone's advice. Yet another reason the internet rocks.



Good stuff! Glad you got it working again properly. I guess that's one problem of replacing whole boards, you can bring new problems into the situation.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14253610
> 
> 
> Well, the only changes I affected were overscan, and yes, that made a huge difference on some HD content where I felt like things were being cut off. Of course everything (mainly comcast's channel guide and 4x3 content) looks "smaller" which of course it is because I shrunk it in both directions to make it all (almost all of it) visible. I used the DVE pattern to get it just under 5% overscan. It was obviously a much larger amount before I tweaked it. I do need to use a pattern which will help me detect whether the aspect ratio is correct or not since an adjustment here obviously throws that out of whack. The 4x3 content is now looking more 4x4 (or 1x1) than 4x3 so I think I've probably got some more tweaking to do there.
> 
> 
> I also messed with the center focus and other related parameters but did not see any visible improvement so I did not save those settings.
> 
> 
> Overall, I think if you read up on what you are doing, and how to do it (as far as how the remote works in conjunction with the service menus) it's a very easy process. But then I write software for a living so I'm ususally not too afraid of getting down into the nitty gritty details when necessary.
> 
> 
> I will say I'm still a bit hesitant about messing with the G2 and FOCUS screws on the FBT, only for fear of electrocuting myself, but I guess I'll go for it this weekend some time since G2 is likely the cause of the (what I now believe to be) rescan lines that I'm seeing on black backgrounds. The black levels look way off as well, perhaps greenish, so again, I suspect that G2 adjustments here may help a lot in that area. We'll see, assuming I don't get zapped.




Sorry to chime in so late. But had to mention that the service menu adjustments can be screwed up and mess the whole TV up. So I would be very careful in doing so. I had a ISF calibration tech come and tweak mine. It was the best $350 bucks I spent on it







.

He calibrated all inputs (color, geometry, etc....).

I would suggest you have it done to yours, you won't regret it







.

If you like more info on who I used, please e-mail or message me on here.


Great job upspila










Have a good day everyone and thank you


----------



## johnc_22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14287920
> 
> 
> Sorry to chime in so late. But had to mention that the service menu adjustments can be screwed up and mess the whole TV up. So I would be very careful in doing so. I had a ISF calibration tech come and tweak mine. It was the best $350 bucks I spent on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> He calibrated all inputs (color, geometry, etc....).
> 
> I would suggest you have it done to yours, you won't regret it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you like more info on who I used, please e-mail or message me on here.
> 
> 
> Great job upspila
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good day everyone and thank you



I'd love to have the set calibrated but given that it could die again after a few years, and I just spent $250 fixing it myself, it's just not worth $350 to me. I probably should have had it done right when I got the set.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnc_22* /forum/post/14304701
> 
> 
> I'd love to have the set calibrated but given that it could die again after a few years, and I just spent $250 fixing it myself, it's just not worth $350 to me. I probably should have had it done right when I got the set.



This is true, but is for all electronics







, people with these TVs had them for years and some (unfortunate souls) had them for less then a year before they crapped out. I do hope mine last another 5 years. But if it don't and last 2 more years, it was still worth it to me. But I only paid around 25 bucks to fix mine....

Another thing to toss around.... The ISF tech who did mine, said that he does all kinds of TVs (plasma, lcd, etc..). He said they all need some kind of tweaking (mostly gray levels). I guess what I'm saying is that, if you go and buy another TV (whatever kind), you will still need it tweaked (unless your lucky enough to get a perfect set right off the shelf







. I never will be that lucky).



But also back to what I had said before.... YOU CAN make the set worse by tweaking service menu, and maybe to the point of not usable!!!!!!! With a board change out it will need adjustments within the service menu. And since you are doing it yourself, then do be sure to write values down and not to save unless your sure it is what you want and is an adjustment you know what it does







.....

Other then that.....

GOOD LUCK with it and hope it last forever


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14337492
> 
> 
> Another thing to toss around.... The ISF tech who did mine, said that he does all kinds of TVs (plasma, lcd, etc..). He said they all need some kind of tweaking (mostly gray levels).



That may very well be the case but somehow it's not surprising that an ISF would say that.


----------



## holonalu

With the replaced D board, and, once again, Mahaolo, as in thanks to all you folks for the advice, how does one go about re-centering the picture? Seems to be off to the right by about an inch.....Once again, thanks.....


Holonalu........Maui


----------



## theweinger

Great thread, thanks for all the tips and help.

6-7 blinks, got my parts already, will attempt to fix it this weekend with a friend that has soldering experience.


I know I'm not completely objective but is there any flat screen out there that provides same quality as my 5 years old set?


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theweinger* /forum/post/14448939
> 
> 
> I know I'm not completely objective but is there any flat screen out there that provides same quality as my 5 years old set?



Maybe the Pioneer Kuro's, but other than that, not much.


----------



## EvilJeff

You're all gonna think I'm nuts, but a while back I had my XBR960 chassis out for dusting and when I reinstalled it, I immediately got the 6/7 blink problem. The cause in my case turned out to be a loose white connector at at the top rear of the BY board. There are 2 cables coming from this board, one goes to the DY dynamic landing board, the other to the CX crt board. It seems that these darn connectors don't go together so easily and you've got to be super dilligent, and press them in on one side, then the other, repeat several times, to get the darn thing to go in fully. Once I got my cables inserted right, the tv ran fine.


There is one other thing I've heard of with other Sony's, I think LCD's and such: a progamming defect causes the set to do the "I ain't gonna turn on" thing after a certain number of hours or days of operation. There are arcticles talking about a firmware update to correct these sets, but nothing about our lovely CRT sets. Anyhow, the quick fix is to unplug the damn thing, wait awhile, plug it back in and resume normal operation,


If any of yous knows how to update firmware on the XBR CRT's , I'd love to hear about it.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EvilJeff* /forum/post/14455201
> 
> 
> There is one other thing I've heard of with other Sony's, I think LCD's and such: a progamming defect causes the set to do the "I ain't gonna turn on" thing after a certain number of hours or days of operation. There are arcticles talking about a firmware update to correct these sets, but nothing about our lovely CRT sets. Anyhow, the quick fix is to unplug the damn thing, wait awhile, plug it back in and resume normal operation,
> 
> 
> If any of yous knows how to update firmware on the XBR CRT's , I'd love to hear about it.



I could be wrong, but I never heard of updates for software on the CRTs (could goto sony support to see if any do).


----------



## theweinger

Well, Great news. My *34XBR800* is working again. Just replaced IC8002 and it's on!

Thank you everyone for the ideas tips and walkthroughs. You saved me time, hassle and lots of money.


Special Thanks to *eclipsedave* for the great pictures!


Football season in 2 weeks so just in time


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theweinger* /forum/post/14481915
> 
> 
> Well, Great news. My *34XBR800* is working again. Just replaced IC8002 and it’s on!
> 
> Thank you everyone for the ideas tips and walkthroughs. You saved me time, hassle and lots of money.
> 
> 
> Special Thanks to *eclipsedave* for the great pictures!
> 
> 
> Football season in 2 weeks so just in time…



Excellent! Congratulations on your successful repair!


And you guessed correctly on the IC!










I replaced IC8002 first on my KV-36XBR400 but, as luck would have it, I picked the wrong one. In my case replacing IC6501 fixed the set. (On the plus side I have sockets in both locations now in case one of the ICs fail down the road.)


Did you install a socket?


----------



## theweinger

Thank you Robert,

Since I had zero-experience soldering, I asked a friend to help me. he definitely recommended to use a socket, which we did.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theweinger* /forum/post/14483320
> 
> 
> Thank you Robert,
> 
> Since I had zero-experience soldering, I asked a friend to help me. he definitely recommended to use a socket, which we did.



That's great. That will make any future IC replacement a snap.


----------



## AmishFury

anyone familiar with this repair in the Evansville IN area? i'm no good with soldering and i wouldn't know where to start i'll cover the cost of parts and toss in a little extra for the work..


my KV40XBR800 was off for 2 months then suddenly came on when i randomly hit the power button the other day... then an absent minded half asleep person hit the wrong button on the remote and it's back to not working


i don't have the $350+ accurate electronics said it would probably cost to fix it


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AmishFury* /forum/post/14502917
> 
> 
> anyone familiar with this repair in the Evansville IN area? i'm no good with soldering and i wouldn't know where to start i'll cover the cost of parts and toss in a little extra for the work..
> 
> 
> my KV40XBR800 was off for 2 months then suddenly came on when i randomly hit the power button the other day... then an absent minded half asleep person hit the wrong button on the remote and it's back to not working
> 
> 
> i don't have the $350+ accurate electronics said it would probably cost to fix it



Maybe you could find another shop (or technician) that would just install the two ICs and sockets without any diagnostics fro a reduced cost.


Another option is to remove the D-Board and ship it off to an outfit like tristatemodule.com:

http://tristatemodule.com/ 


About two years ago they quoted $150 to repair the D-Board from my KV-36XBR400. But there's always the chance that your D-Board is not the problem.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## dkr8611

Add me to the list of successful repairs! Sony KV-32HS500.


I ordered my IC's from tristatemodule.com. Ordered them Monday 8/18. Received them Friday 8/22.


My local Radioshacks were out of the 18 pin IC sockets. I ordered 2 in store via "Direct 2 U" and received them in two days. I didn't have to pay shipping, just tax.


I desoldered the IC8002 circuit first and soldered an IC socket in place. The only trouble I had was with the two pins that hadn't been soldered before. I forgot which ones they were. But after looking at the pictures on this thread, I confirmed they were the ones I had trouble with. Just don't solder pins 13 or 17. All other pins were pretty easy.


Then I put the circuit into the soldered socket. I used another tip on this thread about seating the ciruit into the socket before it is soldered. That helped a lot.


The tv turned right on, BUT the colors were wierd. The channel number was red instead of green. The whole picture looked odd. I thought either the circuit wasn't seated well or I had a bad solder connection. So I pulled the circuit out again to check the pins. I bent a couple a little more straight and reseated the circuit. BINGO! Everything was back to normal. Now I've got an extra socket and 3 extra circuits.


Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkr8611* /forum/post/14517049
> 
> 
> Add me to the list of successful repairs! Sony KV-32HS500.
> 
> 
> I ordered my IC's from tristatemodule.com. Ordered them Monday 8/18. Received them Friday 8/22.
> 
> 
> My local Radioshacks were out of the 18 pin IC sockets. I ordered 2 in store via "Direct 2 U" and received them in two days. I didn't have to pay shipping, just tax.
> 
> 
> I desoldered the IC8002 circuit first and soldered an IC socket in place. The only trouble I had was with the two pins that hadn't been soldered before. I forgot which ones they were. But after looking at the pictures on this thread, I confirmed they were the ones I had trouble with. Just don't solder pins 13 or 17. All other pins were pretty easy.
> 
> 
> Then I put the circuit into the soldered socket. I used another tip on this thread about seating the ciruit into the socket before it is soldered. That helped a lot.
> 
> 
> The tv turned right on, BUT the colors were wierd. The channel number was red instead of green. The whole picture looked odd. I thought either the circuit wasn't seated well or I had a bad solder connection. So I pulled the circuit out again to check the pins. I bent a couple a little more straight and reseated the circuit. BINGO! Everything was back to normal. Now I've got an extra socket and 3 extra circuits.
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread!



Congratulations on your successful repair!










It's a great feeling when you can save great TV with a couple of inexpensive ICs.


The real shame is that the same repair through many professional shops runs $300 or more. Many people don't want to spend that much and the TV ends up in a landfill.


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14517257
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your successful repair!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a great feeling when you can save great TV with a couple of inexpensive ICs.
> 
> 
> The real shame is that the same repair through many professional shops runs $300 or more. Many people don't want to spend that much and the TV ends up in a landfill.



Those shops have a lot of overhead and may have techs who have experience. Experience that gets shared to make DIY repairs possible. Experience figuring out these problems to start with. Overhead like the 4 days of training that I am going to next month and the many hours that I put in training online every month.


While I do not charge $300 for this repair, it is easy to see how it could be reasonable for some shops to do so, depending on the location. There is a place for DIY and a place for professional repair. Be careful how much you lament the cost of repairs, however, because before too many more years most of us will be out of business and many more sets will be seeing the landfill when they break. Between the pressure from manufacturers to replace rather than repair and the unwillingness to incur repair costs on the part of consumers, the TV Technician is a quickly fading profession.


----------



## NOHDjunkie

Add Me to the list of IC swap repairs. My KV 34HS420 has been up and running for 30 minutes.


I swapped out both IC's while I was in there.


I got the set for free from a customer who didn't want to spend any money on the set.


I took it home and plugged it in. Great picture, but shut down after 7-10 minutes with six blinks (sometimes 7) I did some research on Sony blink codes and found this thread. Thanks everyone.... AVS comes through as usual.


Total cost $16.78 for two IC's (shipping included)


----------



## Dreamcazman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOHDjunkie* /forum/post/14605643
> 
> 
> I got the set for free from a customer who didn't want to spend any money on the set.



That must be the deal of the century!










Well done on scoring the TV and the repair.


----------



## coltsfan101

I changed both of the ic's, however, I unscrewed all of the imputs like an idiot. I went to put everything back together and now my picture is severly dark and somewhat green. I moved one of the boards and the picture immediately went back to its beautiful color, however, I went to put the back on and the picture went really dark and green again. The standby light blinks intermittanly 5 times now Any suggestions?


Aaron


----------



## holonalu

I'm definitely not an expert, but sounds like you have a loose connection from one board to another, that would explain why the set kind of works after you move the board. I'ld suggest reconnecting all the cables, make sure everything is properly seated,and give it another go. The connections on the Sony XBR 40" that I have can only be seated in one orientation, and every connector will only hook up to one receptacle. Literally impossible to get things backwards, unless, of course, you use the trusty 12# sledge-omatic, in which case everything will ultimately come together.


Aloha from Maui


----------



## coltsfan101

I think it's a problem with the set and not the connections. I would have the picture perfect and the moment I would turn the tv off with the remote and power back on with the remote, the picture would get all dark and greenish again. I am going to attempt to remove the entire chassis and take it in to a repair shop, unless anyone has an idea on what could be causing this?


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coltsfan101* /forum/post/14707539
> 
> 
> I think it's a problem with the set and not the connections. I would have the picture perfect and the moment I would turn the tv off with the remote and power back on with the remote, the picture would get all dark and greenish again. I am going to attempt to remove the entire chassis and take it in to a repair shop, unless anyone has an idea on what could be causing this?



Well, I agree with Holonalu! I would try to reseat all the connectors and the chips. It could be that 1 of the chips isn't seated all the way, and I believe could cause a problem like that. Why? Well, I assume you unplug the tv to get it to work again? If you are, then the minor connection could reset once it's powered off via. the remote/power button. Electronics will do funny things. And, since you have just repaired it, that would be where I would start (I am no expert, just saying that is where I would double check everything I did, First).


----------



## AmishFury

i just bit the bullet and had the professionals do the repair... cost alot of money but it's working... and of course i get the tv fixed and my AV switch stops working


----------



## falathis

Just wanted to say thank you for all the great information in this thread!! Also posting my success in repairing my KV-32HS500 with the mainly 7 blinks but sometimes 6







A little detail on my problem might help others to identify the same problem in their TV’s to give them more confidence that replacing the IC's should get the TV working again.


My Sony is about 5 years old now I think and had been working perfectly. The last few months I was having problems where I would go to turn it on and it would not turn on however if I tried to turn it on again it would come on no problems. At the time I didn’t even know about the standby light diagnostic blink since it normally blinks a few times when you turn the set on and off. The problem started getting more and more frequent but not until the last week or two would it not turn on at all. Just the power up noise but then you would hear it click back off. So to the internet I went and after a little Goggling I found that this sort of thing has happened before. I did not initially stumble across this forum and the ones I did find would tell you about the problem and that’s where I first heard about the standby blinks. Once I knew that I went goggling for 7 blink error codes for Sony and even more info on the problem. Most said well get ready for a costly repair however it was still worth it due to how good a TV series they were and others talked about repair as far as changing IC’s but that there are quite a few IC’s that it may be.


This forum after reading through it was very much into the DIYer for the fix and I am glad I found it. Also after reading through the whole thing I found out how similar most of the Sony WEGA TV’s were since I saw multiple people posting about different TV’s however they were talking about the same thing (for the most part). Just about everyone’s post on here helped me out a bit as far as tracking down what could be the problem and giving me the confidence to bite the bullet and try it. Danielus in particular helped me out with a problem on my TV (KV-32HS500). The support for the D Board has a brace right underneath one of the IC’s that I was planning on replacing (6501) He has a picture on how he removed the brace and it has not affected the stability of the board and made it to where I did not need to remove the D Board.


Whew! This is turning into a long post… Well here are the raw facts.


- I replaced both IC’s 8002 and 6501 (MCZ3001D) Figured if I am in there might as well do both as they both seem to go bad.


- I used the 18 pin IC sockets for easy replacement if they should ever go bad again (hopefully not







). ($0.59 at Radio Shack)


- I used the Braid for disordering. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!! THANX!! (also Radio Shack)


- I bought the MCZ3001D ICs on eBay for $4.99 a piece and $3.99 shipping. (just searched for the IC name on eBay, quite a few on there)


But the TV is working great and turns on first time no problems now!!!


Thank you again everyone on here!!!!


----------



## Enercon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *falathis* /forum/post/14758500
> 
> 
> Whew! This is turning into a long post Well here are the raw facts.
> 
> - I replaced both IC's 8002 and 6501 (MCZ3001D) Figured if I am in there might as well do both as they both seem to go bad.
> 
> - I used the 18 pin IC sockets for easy replacement if they should ever go bad again (hopefully not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). ($0.59 at Radio Shack)
> 
> - I used the Braid for disordering. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!! THANX!! (also Radio Shack)
> 
> - I bought the MCZ3001D ICs on eBay for $4.99 a piece and $3.99 shipping. (just searched for the IC name on eBay, quite a few on there)
> 
> But the TV is working great and turns on first time no problems now!!!
> 
> Thank you again everyone on here!!!!



Hi Falathis, Im having the exact same problem with my KV32HS500 set. Want to be sure I buy the same IC's as you did. Can you provide link? Thanks.


----------



## levy07

Just got this tv for free from my neighbor who said it just needs a new power supply. Any suggestions on where to buy and fixing myself? Thanks.


----------



## coltsfan101




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14715955
> 
> 
> Well, I agree with Holonalu! I would try to reseat all the connectors and the chips. It could be that 1 of the chips isn't seated all the way, and I believe could cause a problem like that. Why? Well, I assume you unplug the tv to get it to work again? If you are, then the minor connection could reset once it's powered off via. the remote/power button. Electronics will do funny things. And, since you have just repaired it, that would be where I would start (I am no expert, just saying that is where I would double check everything I did, First).




I decided to tackle the tv again, it isn't my main one and when I went to remove the D board, I noticed that one of the wires connecting the the flyback transformer had broken. I stripped the wire and reinstalled and everything is working great again. If anyone has a goofy picture after installation, check the flyback transformer wires... I allowed about half an inch of wire to shove into the flyback







thanks everyone!!


----------



## waduncan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Enercon* /forum/post/14764526
> 
> 
> Hi Falathis, Im having the exact same problem with my KV32HS500 set. Want to be sure I buy the same IC's as you did. Can you provide link? Thanks.



Go to page one of this thread and look at post #27. It has a link that will take you to the chips I used. I do not have the same TV as you, but I believe they use the same ones for this repair (i might be wrong). I would post the link for you, but it wont let me


----------



## cjs7175

Well I'm glad you got your set working! I have a KV40XBR800. It has been acting up lately. When I push the power button it wouldn't come on then today (football sunday) it didn't come on. I'm in Hawaii and the games start at 7am, so that was a bit of a disappointment!


Well I left it off all day unplugged and just took a look at the inside of the tv, plugged it in, got six flashing LEDs and then the tv came on.


Does anyone have ideas/ pictures to share? Would you recommend replacing any specific parts? I'm fairly knowledgeable with electronics, I just don't have the technician schematics.


Regards,

Chris


----------



## cjs7175




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12281890
> 
> 
> Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.
> 
> And I was able to leave most the wires connected.
> 
> Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).
> 
> Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.
> 
> I wish I took pictures of the process now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was more wanting to get it fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thank You for the post




I have the 40'' XBR and my LEDs are blinking 6 times. I will look to replace the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D board.


My question is where are other two ICs you guys are referring to: 6501 and 8002? What are the complete PNs/ boards/ and if possibly locations of these?


Thanks,

Chris


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjs7175* /forum/post/14853483
> 
> 
> I have the 40'' XBR and my LEDs are blinking 6 times. I will look to replace the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D board.
> 
> 
> My question is where are other two ICs you guys are referring to: 6501 and 8002? What are the complete PNs/ boards/ and if possibly locations of these?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris



The *reference numbers* for the two integrated circuits (ICs), being replaced on the D board, are IC6501 and IC8002 and the *type/part #* is MCZ3001D.


----------



## Phil Wheeler

For those of you with the "turn on" problem, see msg #108 and the next one or two in this thread. It has full instructions on the parts to replace, where to get them -- and 14 images on how to get it done.


My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.


I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.


Phil


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Phil Wheeler* /forum/post/14858513
> 
> 
> For those of you with the "turn on" problem, see msg #108 and the next one or two in this thread. It has full instructions on the parts to replace, where to get them -- and 14 images on how to get it done.
> 
> 
> My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.
> 
> 
> Phil



Phil,


Best of luck withyour repair!


Take some time to label the connectors before you take everything apart. That makes reassembly a lot easier.


And, if you haven't already, seriously consider using 18-pin sockets.


Finally, put the remote out of reach until the baseball and football games are over. You don't want to turn it off by accident.


----------



## Phil Wheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Phil Wheeler* /forum/post/14858513
> 
> 
> My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.
> 
> 
> Phil



Well, tonight I turned the set off and -- to verify it was really in need of repair -- turned it on after one minute: And, to my amazement, it came on!


So the repair is on hold since "if it works don't fix it". Parts and tools are all at the ready in case they are needed.


Now I'm wondering if I somehow made it fail last Thursday. I was on a group telecon and wanted to get a picture so I could watch baseball during the call. Thinking the set was off, I cycled the power several times in succession (possibly many times, I was distracted and impatient) and got no picture, then realized the cable box was powered off. Powered up the cable box and then could not get the set to work -- the usual six LED flashes (which I'd never seen before). I wonder if cycling TV power in rapid sequence can cause problems?


No matter: If it works, great. If not I have the parts on hand to fix it.


Phil


----------



## Phil Wheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14860194
> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> 
> Best of luck with your repair!
> 
> 
> Take some time to label the connectors before you take everything apart. That makes reassembly a lot easier.
> 
> 
> And, if you haven't already, seriously consider using 18-pin sockets.
> 
> 
> Finally, put the remote out of reach until the baseball and football games are over. You don't want to turn it off by accident.



Hi, Robert -


Yes, I'll definitely use sockets if I still need the repair. My plan is to use the _in situ_ approach and not disconnect any boards, only the external cables to DVD, cable box, etc. -- and power! The Msg #108 approach. Messing with old, perhaps-fragile connectors always worries me.


My hobby is ham radio (W7OX) and I've had to remove ICs before; it is doable but no fun -- especially with 18 pins. Since these will work with sockets, that's the only way to go. Fortunately that hobby means I have all the needed tools on hand since I build my own transceivers from kits, really my favorite part of the hobby. Fixing the KV-34XBR800 will be satisfying once done, but definitely not something I'd call a "hobby"










Phil


----------



## Phil Wheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Phil Wheeler* /forum/post/14860204
> 
> 
> 
> No matter: If it works, great. If not I have the parts on hand to fix it.
> 
> 
> Phil



Well, this morning it does not turn on. Repair is back on for today. Here we go










Phil


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Phil Wheeler* /forum/post/14862218
> 
> 
> Well, this morning it does not turn on. Repair is back on for today. Here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phil



Phil,


My KV-36XBR400 exhibited similar behavior. As a temporary remedy, you _might_ be able to get the TV to turn on by pressing the power button on the remote over and over again. This worked for a week or two on my set before it became totally non-responsive.


----------



## Phil Wheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14864196
> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> 
> My KV-36XBR400 exhibited similar behavior. As a temporary remedy, you _might_ be able to get the TV to turn on by pressing the power button on the remote over and over again. This worked for a week or two on my set before it became totally non-responsive.



No need, Robert. I have a small 19" Sharp LCD HDTV as a fall back. Anyway, I apparently have successfully repaired the beast using the msg #108+ in situ approach. Of course the first IC didn't do the trick (Murphy's Law). Started at 8 am and finished at 12 noon; not bad considering I had a two-hour hiatus due to a doctor appt this morning.


Anyway, I'll be 72 in Jan; if I can do this job I figure most anyone can.


In truth, I was hoping to be able to buy a newer somewhat larger (40" is as big as I can go in this location) LCD set. But after looking at some I really prefer the picture in this KV-34XBR800, so I'm glad I was able to repair it.


My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. No way I could have fixed this set without their very helpful messages










Phil (w7ox)


----------



## RobertF

Phil,


Congratulations on your successful repair!


Murphy's Law also came into play on my repair.







I replaced IC8002 first after it _appeared_ that one was more often the problem IC. Of course that IC was fine and replacing IC6501 did the trick.


----------



## Phil Wheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14864600
> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your successful repair!
> 
> 
> Murphy's Law also came into play on my repair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced IC8002 first after it _appeared_ that one was more often the problem IC. Of course that IC was fine and replacing IC6501 did the trick.



It figures, Robert; I did IC6501 first and it was OK! IC8002 was the bad one.


In a way I'm glad, since I'd have been tempted not to replace the second chip. Now I have them both socketed and have two spares (I ordered three replacements for redundancy). If it happens again (Murphy's Law says it will not!) the repair will be much easier -- though socketing the new chips was non-trivial given the visibility with all the surrounding parts.


Now off for lunch and a celebratory glass of wine


----------



## siniestro02

hi to all, thank goodness I found this Im having the same issue with my KV-34XBR800 and saw the intruction how to fix it. I'm going to attemp to fix it myself but I have a question


Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60

(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23

Total cost: $21.83


Im confuse about the 2 diferent parts I need to order. the 2 MCZ3001DB will be replacing IC6501 and IC8002 right and what do I do with 18-pin IC Sockets (from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60)


thanks so much for the help


JG


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *siniestro02* /forum/post/14880128
> 
> 
> hi to all, thank goodness I found this Im having the same issue with my KV-34XBR800 and saw the intruction how to fix it. I'm going to attemp to fix it myself but I have a question
> 
> 
> Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
> 
> (2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23
> 
> Total cost: $21.83
> 
> 
> Im confuse about the 2 diferent parts I need to order. the 2 MCZ3001DB will be replacing IC6501 and IC8002 right and what do I do with 18-pin IC Sockets (from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60)
> 
> 
> thanks so much for the help
> 
> 
> JG



JG,


After removing the existing MCZ3001D ICs from your D-Board, you would solder the 18-pin sockets where the ICs were mounted. Then you would simply install the new ICs into the sockets. They just push into place.


As a quick tip, take some time to test fit the ICs into the sockets _before_ you install them. Sometimes you have to slightly bend the IC legs outward to align them with the holes in the sockets. That's a lot easier to do before the sockets are soldered in place.


----------



## siniestro02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14880277
> 
> 
> JG,
> 
> 
> After removing the existing MCZ3001D ICs from your D-Board, you would solder the 18-pin sockets where the ICs were mounted. Then you would simply install the new ICs into the sockets. They just push into place.
> 
> 
> As a quick tip, take some time to test fit the ICs into the sockets _before_ you install them. Sometimes you have to slightly bend the IC legs outward to align them with the holes in the sockets. That's a lot easier to do before the sockets are soldered in place.



I got it! so they become on piece, the 18-pin sockets with the MCZ3001D. thank you so much! you have idea how much this helps. I will order the parts and will let you all know how it went....


JG


----------



## lcaillo

I know others will have differing views on the matter, but my experience, after three decades of servicing electronics, tells me that sockets are a bad idea. They may be fine for a while, but many of them may be problematic over time.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14881738
> 
> 
> I know others will have differing views on the matter, but my experience, after three decades of servicing electronics, tells me that sockets are a bad idea. They may be fine for a while, but many of them may be problematic over time.



Thank you for sharing your experience.


I'm inclined to use sockets for this particular repair since the MCZ3001D ICs are known to have reliability problems. One question is whether or not it's more likely for the socketed connection to fail or one of the MCZ3001D ICs.


For those with more limited soldering skills like myself, the possibility that a future fix might just require a simple repalcement of a socketed IC is very appealing.


Perhaps this is less of a concern for experienced technicians such as yourself since the soldering is less of a chore?


----------



## lcaillo

The soldering should not be that big of an issue. A little fresh solder on each joint and a $15 desoldering iron from Radio Shack and you can do essentially perfect work with no damage to the board.


----------



## By-Tor

OK, my 36XBR400 has started turning itself off at random intervals. I did the diagnostics menu access and I get 1 "Low B" count...


I also have noticed the loud startup noise and over the past few months the picture has started to "bow" inward on the edges.


Are these symptoms indicative of the MCZ3001D IC failure I keep reading about? If so, I'll order the parts immediately!


thanks.


Clarke


----------



## siniestro02

Well Great news guys my KV-34XBR800 is working again. After ordering all the parts ( 2 x 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics and 2 x MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module) and a few hours of work (I'm not a pro at this lol) I can say that I have successfully fix it.


I went and bought a Desoldering Bulb from radio shack ($4.99) then followed the instructions from eclipsedave Post #108 by the way thanks eclipsedave I couldn't have done it with out those instructions. I had to place the tv face/screen down because it was easy for me to do everything but...... I didn't realize how heavy the tv was it almost brook my arms lol! so be careful. I must add that desoldering is a bit painful but with patience it can be done but overall is a really easy process. Thanks to all those who helped me get this done.... so I saved a bunch of $$$$


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *siniestro02* /forum/post/14916378
> 
> 
> Well Great news guys my KV-34XBR800 is working again. After ordering all the parts ( 2 x 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics and 2 x MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module) and a few hours of work (I'm not a pro at this lol) I can say that I have successfully fix it.
> 
> 
> I went and bought a Desoldering Bulb from radio shack ($4.99) then followed the instructions from eclipsedave Post #108 by the way thanks eclipsedave I couldn't have done it with out those instructions. I had to place the tv face/screen down because it was easy for me to do everything but...... I didn't realize how heavy the tv was it almost brook my arms lol! so be careful. I must add that desoldering is a bit painful but with patience it can be done but overall is a really easy process. Thanks to all those who helped me get this done.... so I saved a bunch of $$$$



Congratulations on your successful repair! I know how great it feels when the TV powers up.


And yes, these TVs are incredibly heavy. One of my incentives for fixing my KV-36XBR400 was to avoid the effort required to discard it.


----------



## siniestro02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14916818
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your successful repair! I know how great it feels when the TV powers up.
> 
> 
> And yes, these TVs are incredibly heavy. One of my incentives for fixing my KV-36XBR400 was to avoid the effort required to discard it.



yes its a great feeling, I didn't think i could pull it off. thanks for your help







. I forgot to mention that the IC8002 was the defective one, the socket had a burned pin. i didn't to have mess with the other one (IC6501).


just so you get an idea I contacted Sony to see if they could refer a TV shop, next day the TV shop contact me they pretty much charge $100 just to go look at it which will go towards the total once the tv is fixed. the $100 has to be paid in advanced so a tech can come to your house. if you decide you dont want to fix it! bye bye $100 dollars. this is in Virginia.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *siniestro02* /forum/post/14919051
> 
> 
> yes its a great feeling, I didn't think i could pull it off. thanks for your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I forgot to mention that the IC8002 was the defective one, the socket had a burned pin. i didn't to have mess with the other one (IC6501).
> 
> 
> just so you get an idea I contacted Sony to see if they could refer a TV shop, next day the TV shop contact me they pretty much charge $100 just to go look at it which will go towards the total once the tv is fixed. the $100 has to be paid in advanced so a tech can come to your house. if you decide you dont want to fix it! bye bye $100 dollars. this is in Virginia.



Wow a burned pin! That's the first mention that I've seen of an obvious physical clue for a failed MCZ3001D. There were no such clues on IC8002 and IC6501 on my set. I guessed that the problem was with IC8002 but that one turned out to be fine.


On the repair costs, I was quoted a ballpark estimate of $400 by a local authorized Sony repair technician. That was not an option for me as it was more than the TV was worth. I think that many of these sets end up in landfills or dumps simply because of this scenario. The shame is that many of them could be repaired very easily and inexpensively.


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/14919710
> 
> 
> Wow a burned pin! That's the first mention that I've seen of an obvious physical clue for a failed MCZ3001D. There were no such clues on IC8002 and IC6501 on my set. I guessed that the problem was with IC8002 but that one turned out to be fine.
> 
> 
> On the repair costs, I was quoted a ballpark estimate of $400 by a local authorized Sony repair technician. That was not an option for me as it was more than the TV was worth. I think that many of these sets end up in landfills or dumps simply because of this scenario. The shame is that many of them could be repaired very easily and inexpensively.



While it is true that many can be repaired easily with just these two ICs, it is also true that some require a lot more skill and time to sort out. These sets can be a bear to repair if it turns out to be something beyond the ICs. As a servicer, you have to make extra profit on the easy ones to justify the time on the ones that are far more time consuming. Not to mention all of the time spent in training and doing warranty work that does not even cover the costs of doing business.


----------



## By-Tor

So is the blinking everyone is talking about the 1 blink per second that happens 11 times before the picture comes on, or does it happen after the TV turns itself off? Also, before the TV turns itself off, is anyone having issues with the image "bowing" on the edges?


Also, here is what my diag screen shows:


SELF DIAGNOSIS

2: +B OCP 0

3: +B OVP 0

4: VSTOP 0

5: AKB 0

6: LOWB 1

7: H-STOP 0

101: WDT 0


From what I've read so far, LOWB is an issue with the 5V. Should I assume this is NOT the same issue that everyone else has fixed by replacing the IC's? Thanks in advance.


Clarke


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor* /forum/post/14922940
> 
> 
> So is the blinking everyone is talking about the 1 blink per second that happens 11 times before the picture comes on, or does it happen after the TV turns itself off? Also, before the TV turns itself off, is anyone having issues with the image "bowing" on the edges?
> 
> 
> Also, here is what my diag screen shows:
> 
> 
> SELF DIAGNOSIS
> 
> 2: +B OCP 0
> 
> 3: +B OVP 0
> 
> 4: VSTOP 0
> 
> 5: AKB 0
> 
> 6: LOWB 1
> 
> 7: H-STOP 0
> 
> 101: WDT 0
> 
> 
> From what I've read so far, LOWB is an issue with the 5V. Should I assume this is NOT the same issue that everyone else has fixed by replacing the IC's? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Clarke



Clarke

I don't believe that one of those ICs is the fault....









Your problem sounds like the picture tube or high voltage.

The ICs usually don't let the picture come on at all. And yes! the blinks are after the TV comes up (as in: after the initial blinks and hear the degauss. this is the "warm up" procedure). Then it will blink the number of times of the fault, pause for 2 secs, then repeat. Should repeat until you either turn the TV off or unplug it (can't say how long it will repeat for, but know it will repeat for a good 1/2hr, at least. As it did with mine).


Now, back to your problem... I say your best bet is to take it to a TV repair shop







. I think you have a bigger problem then just a IC. I could be wrong, so I suggest if you do take it somewhere for repairs. I would ask them for the old parts, just to basically see what the problem(s) was. But, ofcourse I would ask them to contact you before any repairs are started and if they could let you know what it needs.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor* /forum/post/14915319
> 
> 
> OK, my 36XBR400 has started turning itself off at random intervals. I did the diagnostics menu access and I get 1 "Low B" count...
> 
> 
> I also have noticed the loud startup noise and over the past few months the picture has started to "bow" inward on the edges.
> 
> 
> Are these symptoms indicative of the MCZ3001D IC failure I keep reading about? If so, I'll order the parts immediately!
> 
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> Clarke



Also, I like to point out.

If it was one of the so called problem ICs you wouldn't get any picture at all. If I understand you correctly? You say you get "bowing" in the corners after the set goes into "shutdown". This does not make sense as the set will almost completely shut itself down when this happens, as a "self protect mode".


----------



## By-Tor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14951777
> 
> 
> Also, I like to point out.
> 
> If it was one of the so called problem ICs you wouldn't get any picture at all. If I understand you correctly? You say you get "bowing" in the corners after the set goes into "shutdown". This does not make sense as the set will almost completely shut itself down when this happens, as a "self protect mode".



Actually, the picture starts to bow and THEN it shuts down. I'm starting to understand that it's not my IC's, but something bigger... Looks like my beloved $2500 XBR has bit the dust.... Not worth a major repair bill as I'm moving to a 50" Plasma or 52" LCD.... I was just hoping to squeeze a little more life out of it to get me through Christmas...


----------



## sully98103

I got the 6 blinking lights, found this forum and changed out the 8002. It works. I've never solder before. Thanks a ton to all the folks who contributed usefull info. One big hurraa for the internet....this time.


----------



## Mark Goetz

I noticed a lot of people asking for pictures of the boards and ICs....

Here are pics from the actual service manual and some others.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor* /forum/post/14951967
> 
> 
> Actually, the picture starts to bow and THEN it shuts down. I'm starting to understand that it's not my IC's, but something bigger... Looks like my beloved $2500 XBR has bit the dust.... Not worth a major repair bill as I'm moving to a 50" Plasma or 52" LCD.... I was just hoping to squeeze a little more life out of it to get me through Christmas...



Oh! OK, that makes sense. Not a good thing tho. Which I would think there is something else going on and one of the ICs takes over and shuts it down, like it should do.

Sorry! They just don't make them like they used to









I do hope that you were pleased with your Sony, while it lasted? Not that I am a Sony rep. I just love their TVs


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sully98103* /forum/post/14952435
> 
> 
> I got the 6 blinking lights, found this forum and changed out the 8002. It works. I've never solder before. Thanks a ton to all the folks who contributed usefull info. One big hurraa for the internet....this time.



Congrats!!!

That is always a good thing


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/14919798
> 
> 
> While it is true that many can be repaired easily with just these two ICs, it is also true that some require a lot more skill and time to sort out. These sets can be a bear to repair if it turns out to be something beyond the ICs. As a servicer, you have to make extra profit on the easy ones to justify the time on the ones that are far more time consuming. Not to mention all of the time spent in training and doing warranty work that does not even cover the costs of doing business.





I thought I chime in on this!!!









First I like to say.... I don't in any way mean to say anyone is right or wrong here!!!


As for the repair shops go...

Yes, they have to make a living or their wouldn't be any! Only "back alley" repairs (taking it to your friends or a friend of a friend, and that never works in reality







). Not saying people don't know somebody who can, just saying it is more likely that most people don't know anyone or can't DIY.


Now, as far as the consumer goes...

When your talking about repairs that involve... ummmmmm... something like these ICs for instance. Why should it cost a lot to repair at a professional shop??? To me (the average person in America) it shouldn't!! Even if they have to "make up for the warranty work" and such. Because this kind of work (replacing one or both of these ICs) would be a walk in the park for those guys. I expect to be paying for the work on my TV!!! Not helping them make up for warranty work. I know that sounds cruel, but as a cosumer, I pay for what it takes to fix MY PROBLEM... NOT everyone elses.


This is IMO and in no way reflects the way any one or another repair shop cunducts buisness!!!!


Now please gentlemen







no more on this.

I like to see both of you on here and helping others, and yes everyone has an opion on different things or ways to be done.

Put it this way! you're both right.

Yes, the sockets could cause more problems in the long run.

And Yes, for future repairs with these ICs would be a lot easier.

One thing noone is sure of.... Will the replacement ICs become faulty crap too????????


THANKS to everyone on here and good luck to those who are in dire need of a fix (TV repair







). If your TV is at a lost? I am sorry it will become landfill, or maybe you can donate it to goodwill or give it to the repair shop. Maybe they can use other working parts? Anything is better then landfill


----------



## rswaggs

I replaced both chips in my tv and it turned right on. Now when you look at the picture there is a slight curve upward right at the top middle of the screen. Also there is some green looking magnetic spots right on the sides of the screen, they are not real noticable it just depends on what colors are showing on the screen. When I went to replace the chips the D board was already unscrewed from when the technician came out to troubleshoot it so I had the whole board out to do my repair. I am sure I hooked everything back up when I was done and the only big wire I took off was the big red one that plugs into the screen itself. Does anybody know of anything I can do to fix this?


----------



## jdre

Congratulations on your repair! The curve may have been there before, mine does this, *not* worsened by replacing the chips. Adjust Vcen Vpin later on to minimize it..The magnetic spots may go away after a few cold startups, (A momentary loud hum should be heard at startup to demagnetize the screen.) Make sure large stereo speakers or magnetic tools are away from the tube.


----------



## Denz1

Hello,



Fellow XBR Owners!










I Now a Proud 50" Panay Plasma Owner, But still love my KV32XBR400 bought back in 2001 New and have never had any issue with it however it has been barely used maybe 200hrs and is still Minty as the day bought it

.. I even purchased the Service manual right away and put it with the Owner's manual Incas anything should possibly ge wrong.


Glad that if I do ever have the problem with the ICs failing I can fix it thanks you many people on here have done it already..thanks to you guys here to help out..










OK My big Technical Question on the Cause of these failure of the ICs in the first place is are they thermally overheated or just failing from within from a design flaw?

And if it's heat can bond a small heat sink them to run cooler...

Just wondering if anyone has tried or asked this already?


Just thinking prevention for all of these cool TVs that may help.

i would love to know if the run hot and maybe try to do a measurement one day..



Thanks,


Dennis


----------



## lcaillo

The chips do not run hot.


----------



## Denz1

Thanks lcaillo for clarifying that.


The only thing I could find really is from an Internet article below.

I guess there's really no way to predict or prevent the D board chips from failing.



"integrated circuit

diffusion and in-die variations can cause chip failure.

The most common failures are:

.. Mostly thermal in nature: to the transistor junctions (HBM)

.. Oxide breakdown of the transistor gates (CDM)

.. Thermal in nature to the transistor junctions (MM)"


Dennis


----------



## lcaillo

I have not seen any particular patterns. I think the part has simply not been as reliable as they had hoped. Not sure if the -db version is any better, but we have not had repeats on the repairs. Could have been a bad batch of chips.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Denz1* /forum/post/14984097
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> Fellow XBR Owners!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Now a Proud 50" Panay Plasma Owner, But still love my KV32XBR400 bought back in 2001 New and have never had any issue with it however it has been barely used maybe 200hrs and is still Minty as the day bought it
> 
> .. I even purchased the Service manual right away and put it with the Owner's manual Incas anything should possibly ge wrong.



You have 200 hours of use on a set purchased 7 years ago (29 hours a year - roughly 30 minutes a week) and you say you love this TV?


I find something terribly wrong with that statement.


----------



## Denz1

"You have 200 hours of use on a set purchased 7 years ago (29 hours a year - roughly 30 minutes a week) and you say you love this TV?


I find something terribly wrong with that statement."



True that is has such low usage it was one of 2 that was purchased and this is in a bedroom that often doesn't get used often 6 months at a time once wasn't turned on for 3 years watch a few movies on it but mainly watch the main TV which is the plasma.


This was purchased with a Toshiba SD5109 Progressive DVD and matching stand with dust cover on it and it's minty still..


I Quit smoking a few years ago also lowering my television watching to a low few hrs. a week biking 50+ miles on weekends etc. feeling great!


The other one was used daily and was long sold without any issues and still going last i have heard with lots of hrs on it!


Though I may be slightly Over the 200hrs but not by much say 500 if that.


I would like to know if these have internal timer counters like the newer ones? I have the service manual and know how to enter it way back to turn off the red push etc


Would love to share the actual time!



Now just getting re interested in the TVs and theater Bug again and Sweet HD TV prices









this Really Nice TV has an Amazing PQ But on the Small side now..

Tiny Box!


Would like to update it with a PIO FD111 Elite within the year..










Den


----------



## ceramicat

I have the KV-32HS420 model with 7 flashes and I have read all of the posts describing the fix by replacing the two IC's. I have the TV tipped forward on its front with the bottom panel removed and access to the circuit board for soldering. I am taking precautions to follow all of the recommended steps by taking things slow.


I have a few questions first before attempting to desolder the nonfunctioning chips. I noticed on IC8002 and on IC6501 that pin numbers 13 and 17 are not soldered. Is that the way they should be? Or should the replacement include all pins being soldered to the board? I tryed to find this question in the many pages of posts and never came up with a diffinitive answer.

Thanks for the help, Cathy


----------



## lcaillo

You can't solder all of the pins because there are no lands for the ones that are not connected. Put the chips in the way they came out.


----------



## rj2979

$48.16. Cost to repair my 40XBR800. Replaced the two chips-didn't care which failed-did the socket routine. Had to buy new iron, wick , etc since I threw my old stuff out never expecting to use it again. Didn't get a cheaper choice on shipping from Tri-State but whatever. Great that unit slides out and wifey helping.


Thanks for the help, everyone!


----------



## ClodRA

JUst want to thank all the contributors to this forum for the great information that allowed me to salvage my beloved 5 year old KV-34XBR800 TV set. Replacement of 2 ICs was very straight forward using the information on this forum, and it fixed the dreaded 6 blinking light start up problem and this set will live on. Thanks y'all.

Dick


----------



## bluong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/14952458
> 
> 
> I noticed a lot of people asking for pictures of the boards and ICs....
> 
> Here are pics from the actual service manual and some others.



Hi Mark,


I just acccidentally found this website with information to fix Sony Vegas XBR. I then tried on my Sony TV 34XBR800 same symptom 6 flashes on standby led. Part IC's have been on ordered should be delivered any day this week.

Today, I tried replace the 2 sockets first then when IC comes I just insert them on the socket. After replacing 2 sockets, I use the Ohm meter to find out any short or opened traced everything looks fine . Except the little tiny surface mounted part next to pin9 of IC8002 marked as C8028 and pin 9 of IC 6501 marked as C6516. Since I do not have schematic, I am not sure these 2 parts are capacitor or resistors. Because if these 2 parts are the capacitors, they look shorted to me . when I ohm it out it read about 25 Om on C8028 and 45 Ohm on C8516. If they are resistors then I am less worried.I am not sure if you have service manual or schematic would you check it out for me.

Thank you very much. please see attchment picture that I copy from one of the member on this forum for location of the parts.


----------



## bluong

Hi All Sony Vegas TV


This site gave me the info to start to repair my TV , very useful information. In return to this web site, I would like to add the schematic of these 2 ICs so that you guy can use it to trouble shoot or Ohm out the components around it.


See attached files

 

IC6501_IC8002.zip 420.970703125k . file


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rswaggs* /forum/post/14962143
> 
> 
> I replaced both chips in my tv and it turned right on. Now when you look at the picture there is a slight curve upward right at the top middle of the screen. Also there is some green looking magnetic spots right on the sides of the screen, they are not real noticable it just depends on what colors are showing on the screen. When I went to replace the chips the D board was already unscrewed from when the technician came out to troubleshoot it so I had the whole board out to do my repair. I am sure I hooked everything back up when I was done and the only big wire I took off was the big red one that plugs into the screen itself. Does anybody know of anything I can do to fix this?



You said a tech had already worked on it? If so, what did he do?

Also, I like to point out....

You and everyone on here has to be very careful not to disturb anything on the tub itself. If any of those items were disturbed, could cause the problems you describe.


Congrats on your repair and maybe you just didn't notice the bow or color spots before hand







Just a thought!


----------



## Mark Goetz

Thank you bluong

When I fixed mine, I meant to take pictures, but was more interested in it working again. Great picture












And congrats to more success in saving these TVs from landfill!!!!


----------



## mykinds

Just wanted to say 'Thanks' to all... I've just successfully completed the repair on my KV32HS510. I replaced both ICs, with the set tipped on its face, and am back to enjoying the fine picture.


----------



## jdre

Congratulations, I'm about to put the back on mine, after doing the same repair!


----------



## bluong

Hi all Sony XBR TV user


Yesterday, IC parts had come. I bought them on ebay 10 ICs cost $25 included shipping not bad.

I then installed 2 IC on the 2 sockets that I did last week as instructed by this forum. You guess what, my Sony TV 34XBR800 starts working now, all day yesterday and this morning I tried turned on again to check that it is OK to turn on. No problem at all.

I did not have to remove the Anode high voltage CRT cable. What I did wasremove the back cover, disconnected some cables on the right side (facing from the back ) that interfere when the D and the A board lifted out from the bottom. You just used 2 hands lift the main board up and slide it out , then you flip them vertically so that you easily access to the solder side of the 2 IC. make sure you cut the plastic bezel bracket too.

Very easy, again thanks a lot to this forum .


----------



## azureskys

Hi. I've been searching through the forum for a few days tracking down what to do, hope this is an ok place to start.


I was given a Sony kv-36hs500 from a friend that was dropped while being moved. Other than bezel damage the screen was fine and the picture looked ok. He said prior to the drop it had some picture issues where it would 'bounce' until it warmed up.


I got it home, hooked it up and started browsing settings and channels. After about 30 minutes the screen flickered and then went distorted. Basically the middle bows down real low making the bottom image off screen and a big droop in the top. There are some color distortions and spots that look like its too close to a magnet on the corners. If I leave the set off for awhile the picture will change between normal and distorted when first turned on, then settle on the distorted look.


A little hope has come from reading some of the fixes here, and I am hoping that since it does display normal at first it is not majorly broken. I'll attach a few pictures that won't do full justice, but hopefully give an idea of the distortion. I'm not sure which of the 'White Blanace Failure' items I should tackle. Also, it doesn't always blink 5 times, I swear I've seen it blink 9, but maybe I was going crazy and all codes are 0 when I do the DISPLAY=>CHANNEL=>VOLUME DOWN=>POWER menu.


I have decent tech/repair ability to try and adjust it, but may have to consult a professional. I don't want to spend too much, I'd rather save up for a newer, lighter set than invest a whole lot into this.


Thanks in advance!


-note: the Cars picture is blurry due to the camera, the picture isn't actually like that, but it shows the droop quite well.


----------



## jdre

Maybe inspect the chassis for loose plug in connectors. D board on left side (looking from rear of set) and W board (on the CRT) affects pincushion. Your convergence looks like it goes out, too (edge of white bar in picture). You could try wiggle test for loose connections carefully! Could be solder joint or maybe small crack in board (but sounds like problem was pre-drop.)


----------



## play1962

Just want to report another success story, my TV stopped working after 6 yrs with the standby light blinking six times. I search online and found this thread, replaced the 8002 IC only and it works perfectly. Thanks eclipsedave the pictures helped a lot and everyone that contributed to this thread.


----------



## legend88ls

I repaired my KVXBR910 back in August by replacing the two IC's (with sockets) on the D board and was successful up until today. I noticed during the last couple of weeks the pic itself was fine but there was a noticeable twitching, or random momentarily shrinking evenly from the left and right side of the image. Today while watching the image completely gave out and the 7-blink code began. I attempted to re-fire the mammoth up and heard the pop from the rear of the unit followed again by the 7-blink code. I purchased extra chips and then within a few minutes took the back panel off and replaced both. Unfortunately it did not change the outcome.







Any ideas what to do now? I am ready to ditch it. I am aware there is another IC on the A board but do not know if its worth removing that to replace or if that one can cause the 7-blinker as well. TKs in advance.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legend88ls* /forum/post/15110371
> 
> 
> I repaired my KVXBR910 back in August by replacing the two IC's (with sockets) on the D board and was successful up until today. I noticed during the last couple of weeks the pic itself was fine but there was a noticeable twitching, or random momentarily shrinking evenly from the left and right side of the image. Today while watching the image completely gave out and the 7-blink code began. I attempted to re-fire the mammoth up and heard the pop from the rear of the unit followed again by the 7-blink code. I purchased extra chips and then within a few minutes took the back panel off and replaced both. Unfortunately it did not change the outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what to do now? I am ready to ditch it. I am aware there is another IC on the A board but do not know if its worth removing that to replace or if that one can cause the 7-blinker as well. TKs in advance.



In the event you had any marginal connections on your newly installed sockets, you might want to resolder everything. It could be that, over time, a marginal connection might have failed.


And you might just want to go ahead and replace the third IC on the A-Board.


Good luck!


----------



## ceramicat

Thanks for all the tips and advice on this board! I did the repair today on my KV32HS420with two MCZ3001DB chips. Followed all the solder tips and practiced with cheap sockets and a small board from the electronics shop. It was surpisingly easy once I got some practice. I orginally paid $45 to a guy to come to my home and diagnose it and he wanted $350 for the repair. All he said was it was the power supply! Total I spent on practice stuff, 15 amp solder gun from Radio shack, solder, and replacement OEM chips(from Prelco at $5.99 each) was around $50! I talked with Mike at Prelco and he advised not to use the sockets as it might deter from the repair. This is a great source for these chips if you haven't ordered from them before. They were very nice and quick from NJ to the west coast. I ordered two extra chips for "just in case" I fryed one of these so I have back-up chips if the set goes out again. I can now add electronics repair to my many hats!


----------



## ceramicat

Here is Prelco's site.

Prelcoparts.com

FYI


----------



## jdre

Another place is bdent.com. That was a good idea, to practice first. Enjoy!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ceramicat* /forum/post/15122645
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the tips and advice on this board! I did the repair today on my KV32HS420with two MCZ3001DB chips. Followed all the solder tips and practiced with cheap sockets and a small board from the electronics shop. It was surpisingly easy once I got some practice. I orginally paid $45 to a guy to come to my home and diagnose it and he wanted $350 for the repair. All he said was it was the power supply! Total I spent on practice stuff, 15 amp solder gun from Radio shack, solder, and replacement OEM chips(from Prelco at $5.99 each) was around $50! I talked with Mike at Prelco and he advised not to use the sockets as it might deter from the repair. This is a great source for these chips if you haven't ordered from them before. They were very nice and quick from NJ to the west coast. I ordered two extra chips for "just in case" I fryed one of these so I have back-up chips if the set goes out again. I can now add electronics repair to my many hats!



Congratulations on your successful repair!


And thanks for sharing your source for the "DB" variant of the MCZ3001D.


On the use of sockets, I decided to use them for my repair because it would make a future IC replacement a snap. It also eliminated the risk that I might overheat one of the ICs during the installation. That was a good choice for me because I found the de-soldering process to be a pain.


But I know that some repair technicians feel that they should be avoided.


----------



## redusomo




----------



## Ox///M

Well, I have become the latest victim of the 6.. and now 7...flash death it seems.


I have a Sony 34" XBR910 that is no longer powering up. I've let the set rest and plugged her back in, same result. a few quick flashes, then the 6 flash sequence repeated forever.


What I've discerned is that there are potentially 3 ICs (Integrated Circuits) in there that should be replaced.


I've soldered and done a few minor electronic repairs; however, I'm really in-between selling this for $200 with a directive to repair it, or fixing it myself.


In 1 month I'm moving, and this 200 lbs rock might just meet it's end.


I'm going to re-read the thread, try to pull out the exact parts needed, and then solicit the group here for any other thoughts.


I really appreciate your time. For now the only thing to do is to grab one more drink and blow off the steam from having to perform a second repair to this set (first was a BAD blue/geometry issue on the left side of the screen).


----------



## zx2frk03

hey i have a KV-36XBR400 it has a buzing sound as if the tv where going to turn on but then the led flashes ether 4 or 5 times it has no picture or sound any suggestions?? i read thet some of you have replaced IC5008 and 6501.. and i know that 4 blinks means Vstop and 5 blinks means whit balance failure, but i wand to hear it from some ppl that have experienced this before i start desoldering stuff


----------



## jdre

I replaced IC8002 and IC6501. I had Vstop once and LowB (6 blinks) mostly. Set may work a while without repair if you unplug it and give it a day off or two. Then you can get codes from the Self-Diagnosis screen. You should read this page , most experience on Web with these Sonys is in this forum! (That page shows cutting a plastic frame, not needed, D board unscrews and stands up, good access to parts then.)


----------



## lcaillo

There is no need to cut anything to stand up the D board. You just remove the screws and a few connectors and stand it up.


----------



## joesoni

I have a KV-34HS510 that fell victim to the 6 (or 7) blinks. Luckily, I found this forum. Thinking I would need two, I bought four of the MCZ3001DB chips from TSM, tristatemodule.com. I also bought a can of aerosol electronics cleaner, some desoldering brade, and 18-pin sockets. I practiced soldering and desoldering for a couple hours with some old chips and board I already had.


I opened the back of the TV, found the chips, and then like many others, flipped the TV onto it's face onto a towel while still on the TV stand. I did not remove anything, disconnected no cables, removed no heat sinks. I had read on the forums that some had success only replacing the 8002 chip on the D board. This was also the easiest chip of the two to get to so I was very tempted to just try that one. I also noticed that one of the existing solder joints on that chip looked really funky. Like a big round ball of solder on the pin rather than the typical "good" connection. Thinking that could be the root cause of my problem, I had a great deal of confidence to only replace that chip. I desoldered the old one pretty easily (had to bump the iron to 30W). I then "test fit" a new chip into the socket and it fit very snuggly. Rather than ruining it trying to pull it back out, I just left it in and soldered in the socket with the chip still attached. I checked over all my solder joints really well, making sure they all looked solid and redoing a couple. After soldering in a new 8002 only, I flipped the TV back up-right, plugged it in, hit the power button and it worked the first time.


Thanks to all the contributors to this forum. Saved me at least a thousand bucks on a new TV.


----------



## jdre

Awesome, and ready for holiday season!


----------



## Musicnutt

Holy Cow Batman! I knew I should have come here first since I researched the HDTV in question right here at AVS when I was shopping for it. Got another 34XBR800 biting the dust with 7 blinks. I've already found the detailed repairs by Eclipsedave in this thread (awesome job by the way!)


Too bad this awesome TV had to start dying right in the middle of repainting our living room/dining room/hallway OIY! Started looking at LCD's and yuck! It was an awesome surprise to find what looks like such an easy fix and our XBR will now likely live to see another day. Once the painting is done and I find the time to actually fix it of course. *lol* Oh well, its better than wasting close to a grand on a new tv that wouldn't compare with this one.


Even my wife didn't want to give up on the XBR Direct View. They truly are outstanding HDTV's. To my eye anyway they rival all but the very best plasma's and blow lcd's out the door by a mile.


Nutt


----------



## Musicnutt

Sony KV-34XBR800, was 7 blinks seems like 6 recently.


Maybe I'm in over my head here but I'm not afraid to try with a few more answers. I've done quite a bit of minor soldering but not alot of circuit board soldering so I have a guy who's much better at it since he's owned a used stereo store/repair shop for over 20 years. He's been my 'mr. fixit' guy for the last 15+ years for all my stereo gear so I really trust him to not oops like I might. I know most of what's posted here is DIY without literally 'removing' the boards. But that's exactly what I'd like to do and bring the boards to this guy and let him do it for me. Sorry, he doesn't make house calls. *lol*


Basic with any electronics: Don't bend anything, be gentle and don't discharge any static onto circuit boards, got that part. I've built my own PC's from parts so I'm not afraid of circuit boards. Getting blasted across the room however . . . . does.


1. Big red wires look like high voltage lines coming off the D Board with the rubber caps on two of them. Hmmm? If I unplug the TV for a day is it safe yet? *lol* I've been zapped by 220v and didn't like it. I'm not looking for any cheap thrills.


2. Someone somewhere in this thread mentioned restoring CONFIG? This worries me. Anyone got any answers to that if 'unplugging' the board completely requires restoring CONFIG? Is this where I get in over my head?


Trying to compose a 'recap' here if I've got it right. First 2 parts on the "D" Board, last part on the "A" Board.


IC6501

IC8002

MCZ3001DB


Anyone have photos posted here for where the MCZ3001DB is?


My attitude is if there's a known defect? Might as well do them all while I've got it open and out of service.


Nutt


----------



## Musicnutt

OIY! Trying to fathom all this in the middle of a home improvement project (painting) I'm seeing my own mistakes now. The MCZ3001DB's go in the D board circuit positions IC6501 or IC8002. I just ordered the MCZ3001DB's so that's done. I'm sure I've got some old computer parts like an old 14.4k modem or something that obsolete and useless now to practice soldering/desoldering on. Now if I can only find where those all got packed away to when I've emptied 2 entire rooms to paint. Finding those may take longer than the actual repair. *lol* Radio shack looks like they have the 18 pin sockets (part # 272-1992) so unless someone recommends against them as poor quality I'll get those there.


Is the A Board part the same part, a MCZ3001DB? Skimming through all the postings I can't seem to isolate the answer to that question. Just in case fixing IC6501 or IC8002 doesn't bring up other blink codes in the process.


Would it be worthwhile trying to get my set fired up and getting into the diagnostic screen to verify this problem? Or is the 6 or 7 blinks sufficient proof?


Being a holiday weekend I'm guessing most people are offline.


Nutt


----------



## jdre

I have the Service Manual 20MB ( immediate download here ), happens to be the same one for your set







. The A board does *not* have any MCZ3001D on it. Just have to deal with D board. You do not have to remove the whole D board to service the set. If you remove and replace a similar IC from an old modem, that would be good practice. Radio Shack sockets are OK, I used them. Can't hurt to fire up TV, maybe you can get the screen up and watch TV a bit more, the sets tend to "heal" temporarily.


The Red wires are High Voltage, best avoid handling, but not impossible. Config settings don't need to be reset!


If you read this topic back on page 4 , much information there. Here is a picture of my D board in repair position.


----------



## Musicnutt

jdre,


Thanks for the link to the manual. Its looking like I may tackle this myself after a bit of practice with an old circuit board. I've still got a few questions like which side of the 'bridge connectors' that span the two bottom boards open up from? So I'm not trying to pop them open from the wrong side. I got a closer look at them yesterday under better lighting and its looking like they open from the left side when looking from the rear of the set?


The wiring harness plugs are easy enough since I've worked with those types of connectors before. But those bridge connectors I'm a bit unsure of and obviously don't want to break anything if I'm coming at it from the wrong direction. The clips holding the board in look easy enough to undo.


Thanks for the input!


Nutt


----------



## jdre

Bridge Connectors do open on the left







They take a firm tug, I seem to remember that you pop one side loose then the other. The main chassis has 2 clips in the front corners that you carefully lift and tug chassis back a few inches, then you can get at the Philips screws that hold the D board in, and there are 2 catches on the left side of the D board. It's in there good!


----------



## Mark Goetz

Thanks for the pictures JDRE







As I wish I had taken pics when I did mine, but was happy to get it fixed







.. Also for the manual, I have it but wasn't sure it be ok to just share with everyone as for copyright issues







. But was giving the more important info in it, since a lot of it is part numbers (hmmm, makes me wunder if the links I posted are working?).

Other then that, I am very happy to see this thread is helping a lot of people out







.

Thanks to all and AVS forums for having such a good place to go to for these DIY kind of help!!!!!


----------



## Mark Goetz

I hope you don't mind JDRE? I added a couple arrows to your pic to point out the locations of the ICs.


----------



## jdre

OK with me, do you use Paint to do that? The manual is at a website that has many free manuals.


----------



## vorteched_1

I can't believe how great this post has proven to be!


I googled the blinking standy button on my KV-34S510 and found this thread. I was dreading having to discard the best TV I have ever had or pay up to $400 to get it repaired.


Last night, I pulled the D-board and today I am taking it to a repair shop to have the ICs removed and the sockets installed because my soldering skills suck.


The hardest part in removing the board for me was removing to the 4 bridge connectors that attach the D-board to the board on the opposite side of the TV.


The thin wires on the big transformer looking thing were tough but I just had to get over the fear of breaking something and really pull hard.


Thanks to everyone for their input.


----------



## Subbie171

Add another one to the success pile, my KV34XBR800. Took D-board out, soldered IC8002 in place, and there it is, easy as pie. Thanks for the guides guys


----------



## vorteched_1

Picked up my D-board from the repair shop with the sockets and IC's installed. It took less than 10 minutes to reinstall the board. Everything works great.


I may have overpaid to have a tech do my soldering but I just didn't trust my rusty skills. All I know is that my TV is alive again!


----------



## jdre

Congratulations, Vorteched and Subbie







I bet the repair shop took note of which chips those were for "reference"


----------



## vorteched_1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15202871
> 
> 
> Congratulations, Vorteched and Subbie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet the repair shop took note of which chips those were for "reference"



The tech told me he didn't think it was the IC's as he was handing my board back to me. I'll have to call him and let him know that the internet was right


----------



## AnalogDesigner

Hi,


New user here. Just wanted to say how great it is to have a resource like this. My Sony KV-32HS500 won't power on, so I've followed other users' path of removing the D board and soldering down 18 pin DIP sockets for the two MCZ3001D chips. Now I'm just waiting for my order from TSM to come in. I ordered online and selected UPS 2 day air. I haven't seen any correspondence from them regarding shipment. Should I be worried? For those of you who ordered from there, did you get your parts quickly?


----------



## jdre

I used bdent.com, good service there. Did your parts arrive yet?


----------



## Musicnutt

AnalogDesigner,


I ordered my parts from the same place, TSM. I ordered online late on Saturday and they were here on Wednesday. I went with UPS Ground shipping. So no problems here with their service.


Nutt


----------



## Musicnutt

I know many people here haven't 'completely' removed their boards to do these repairs but some have. The largest red wire coming off the FBT and running to the top of the tube. Does it simply take a firm tug to pull that wire free at the FBT? I'd really prefer to disconnect mine entirely to work on it.


Nutt


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/15221249
> 
> 
> I know many people here haven't 'completely' removed their boards to do these repairs but some have. The largest red wire coming off the FBT and running to the top of the tube. Does it simply take a firm tug to pull that wire free at the FBT? I'd really prefer to disconnect mine entirely to work on it.
> 
> 
> Nutt



I believe you should push down and turn to remove the anode wire from the FBT. There are tabs on the cable that engage in the FBT socket.


----------



## AnalogDesigner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/15221249
> 
> 
> I know many people here haven't 'completely' removed their boards to do these repairs but some have. The largest red wire coming off the FBT and running to the top of the tube. Does it simply take a firm tug to pull that wire free at the FBT? I'd really prefer to disconnect mine entirely to work on it.
> 
> 
> Nutt



I disconnected my wire from the CRT. If you pull it real hard out of the flyback you will probably break it. It's one of those "one-time only" connections. The FBT end of the wire has just a little piece of conductor sticking out and it gets engaged by some barbs in the FBT. I've broken one in the past by pulling on them. As for the other red and white wire, I cut them and carefully re-spliced after the repair. The white one is not high voltage. The smaller red one is, so I insulated the heck out of it (2 layers of shrink wrap plus a healthy wrapping of electrical tape).


To disconnect the "stethoscope" end from the CRT, just pull back the rubber boot and gently compress the metal tabs to remove it from the glass. A WORD OF CAUTION: make sure the TV has been unplugged for several hours before doing this. A CRT is like a giant capacitor - in this case it's charged up to ~10,000 volts. A big CRT contains enough charge to kill you. I've seen pros insert a well insulated screwdriver with a ground wire attached under the rubber boot thing to discharge the CRT. My old electronics teacher in high school showed us this trick once with an old computer monitor. He turned it on for a few seconds, then pulled the plug. Right away he stuck the screwdriver under that wire and touched it to metal chassis. BANG! Lighting bolts came out of that thing. And that was a 14" monochrome IBM PC monitor. Your Sony will claim your life if you try the same thing. Be warned.


Good luck!


----------



## AnalogDesigner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15123141
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your successful repair!
> 
> 
> And thanks for sharing your source for the "DB" variant of the MCZ3001D.
> 
> 
> On the use of sockets, I decided to use them for my repair because it would make a future IC replacement a snap. It also eliminated the risk that I might overheat one of the ICs during the installation. That was a good choice for me because I found the de-soldering process to be a pain.
> 
> 
> But I know that some repair technicians feel that they should be avoided.



I can also report success with the MCZ3001DB. I used the sockets. I did have an issue with seating the chips. The first attempt didn't work because I didn't push down hard enough. After re-inserting, it worked.


----------



## AnalogDesigner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/15221186
> 
> 
> AnalogDesigner,
> 
> 
> I ordered my parts from the same place, TSM. I ordered online late on Saturday and they were here on Wednesday. I went with UPS Ground shipping. So no problems here with their service.
> 
> 
> Nutt



They showed up yesterday. No problems. I just kind of expected an email with a tracking number, but I guess TSM is probably a small outfit. No complaints, though!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnalogDesigner* /forum/post/15222882
> 
> 
> I can also report success with the MCZ3001DB. I used the sockets. I did have an issue with seating the chips. The first attempt didn't work because I didn't push down hard enough. After re-inserting, it worked.



Congratulations on your successful repair!


On seating the ICs, It's a good idea to test fit them in the sockets before installing the sockets. I did this and I found that the legs on the ICs needed to be bent outward slightly to align with the pin holes in the sockets. This was easy to do when the sockets were loose.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15222560
> 
> 
> I believe you should push down and turn to remove the anode wire from the FBT. There are tabs on the cable that engage in the FBT socket.



I once read about the "push down and turn" method for releasing the flyback wires but that didn't work on FBT installed in my KV-36XBR400. It may be that this will work for some flyback models but some of them are definitely a "pull to release" design without any tabs inside.


Here's a good thread on removing the flyback wires from Agoraquest.com:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic...._page_number=1 


The problem with the "pull to release" design, as noted by AnalogDesigner, is the risk that you will break off the wire inside the FBT if you apply too much force. And I have seen reports of this happening.


I tried to pull the wire out of my FBT but I didn't feel comfortable with the amount of force I was applying. In the end, I cut the smaller red wire that ran to the yoke mounted C-Board and I spliced it back together after completing the repair. Like AnalogDesigner, I heavily insulated that spliced connection. That spliced connection has been working fine for two years now.


----------



## lcaillo

There is a very simple solution to the difficulty of dealing with removing the wire from the flyback...don't do it. There is no need to. The board will stand up on its side with the wire attached and the chips are easily changed without removing the high voltage lead. It is just a foolish risk to mess with these troublesome connections. If you damage the flyback or break off the wire and can't get it out, the cost of the transformer is ridiculous and you have a big PITA.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/15224987
> 
> 
> There is a very simple solution to the difficulty of dealing with removing the wire from the flyback...don't do it. There is no need to. The board will stand up on its side with the wire attached and the chips are easily changed without removing the high voltage lead. It is just a foolish risk to mess with these troublesome connections. If you damage the flyback or break off the wire and can't get it out, the cost of the transformer is ridiculous and you have a big PITA.



I think that's great advice. When I repaired my D-Board, I didn't realize how easily it could be rotated up into a service position.


----------



## Musicnutt

Hey everyone,


Thanks for all the input to date. This truly is an amazing place for great info. Finally got the D Board loose and up on its side last night. Those bridge connectors were the trickiest part but not too bad once I got the back panel off and out of the way for better access.


Ok, so thumbs down on removing the FBT connections which at this point are all that's left connected on mine.


Silly question, since at least one of those wires on the FBT is high voltage is there any concern about touching the underside of the D Board near the FBT while doing the repairs? Or is the underside of the FBT essentially safe? If possible I'd rather not get zapped by not taking the proper precautions is all. I'd suppose I could simply cover the underside of the FBT with electrical tape if necessary?


Nutt


----------



## jdre

Electrical tape will be fine, if you need extra assurance. Also, *avoid the pins of the large black capacitors* in the upper left area of D board. You are taking the best approach, not having to mess with the High Voltage. Even with experience, I avoid it whenever possible. (*The CRT MUST be discharged first if you remove the rubber anode cap from it.*)


----------



## vorteched_1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/15227472
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the input to date. This truly is an amazing place for great info. Finally got the D Board loose and up on its side last night. Those bridge connectors were the trickiest part but not too bad once I got the back panel off and out of the way for better access.
> 
> 
> Ok, so thumbs down on removing the FBT connections which at this point are all that's left connected on mine.
> 
> 
> Silly question, since at least one of those wires on the FBT is high voltage is there any concern about touching the underside of the D Board near the FBT while doing the repairs? Or is the underside of the FBT essentially safe? If possible I'd rather not get zapped by not taking the proper precautions is all. I'd suppose I could simply cover the underside of the FBT with electrical tape if necessary?
> 
> 
> Nutt



I totally removed my d-board from the TV. I figured it would be a good idea to see if I could remove the FBT wires before loosening any screws. I had to pull up on the two smaller ones really hard. So hard that I was certain the wires would break but they wont as they are solid core. I disconnected the biggest wire from the opposite side (tube side). It was a pretty simple alternative. I had to be sure to ground the bare metal prongs to metal on the chassis or to the carbon on the tube to discharge any residual electricity that might be left over. No chance of getting zapped that way.


----------



## lcaillo

OK, there seem to be som misconceptions about where you can get hurt in these sets.


First, the Flyback transformer does NOT need to be disconnected and it is a bad idea to do so. If you damage the connections or do not get them seated properly, you run the risk of arcing which will likely permanently damage the transformer and presents a serious hazard.


Second, one is unlikely to find a charge on the pins of the flyback itself. The capacitors may hold a charge that can give a large shock, as can the CRT. The proper way to discharge any of these is NOT to short them directly to the chassis. The proper way is to discharge them through a large resistor to bleed off the charge more slowly. This avoids damage to caps from too rapidly discharging them, and avoids damage to other components connected to ground due to a large surge.


The best practice is to let the set remain off for a while, check the voltage on the larger capacitors and discharge as needed, and DON'T pull the flyback unless it or the D board need to be replaced.


I am sure there will be many replies that say that they used other practices and had no problem, just like my recommendation to not use sockets. All I can say is that you are playing craps. You might get lucky or you might not. People drive without seat belts and with their kids in safety seats all the time and are fine, also. As a professional, one learns not to test fate. Since many who are doing these repairs are not highly skilled, it is more important to use good practice. Some are likely to damage those connections on the flyback and end up burning up the transformer.


----------



## Musicnutt

Hey everyone,


Well, I wasn't one of the lucky ones so far. Got both MCZ3001DB's on the D Board replaced using sockets. Reconnected everything and still have 6 or 7 blinks. I tried powering up the Tv several times and I also got a 5 blink after one attempted power on sequence.


I'll pull the board out one more time and triple check all solder connections but I thought I did that twice already so I'm not entirely optomistic about it not being something else also.


Geez, there are some extremely tiny traces off some of those pins. Maybe I broke one of those when desoldering. They're so tiny they're even hard to see with a magnifer.


Also, from my own notes before I removed the chips I showed pin 17 and 13 not being soldered on IC6501 but only pin 17 not being soldered on IC8002. After removing both chips I noticed that there was no circular trace under pin 13 on IC8002 also. I had NOT noted that this pin was not soldered before removing it. And this socket pin also wouldn't hold solder when trying to resolder it probably because there was no trace on the circuit board to bind to.


Looking at the service manual I may also try clearing the errors through the diagnostic screen if I get that to come up for me.


Oh well, one last look and if I can't find anything I missed then its 200lb doorstop time for this KV34XBR800.


Thanks everyone for all the input. It was certainly worth trying.


Nutt


----------



## jdre

I hope these help you out. Here is what the traces should look like without solder, 13, 17 no traces.










And after soldering. Pin 13 and 17 no solder. No solder across adjacent pins.










The notch on each IC aligns with the black dot on the PC board. Be sure they are pressed down evenly in the sockets and no pins are missing/bent out of the sockets.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15240861
> 
> 
> ...The notch on each IC aligns with the black dot on the PC board. Be sure they are pressed down evenly in the sockets and no pins are missing/bent out of the sockets....



I agree. Recheck the chip's registration. IC notch/dot to pc board dot. And make sure the IC is pushed firmly into the socket with no bent pins. jdre - nice photos


----------



## Musicnutt

jdre,


I'm envious of your camera that can take 'that close' of closeups. I tried with mine but it wouldn't focus anywhere nearly as close.


May have found a problem. Apparently the socket for IC8002 wasn't seated totally flush with the board on one side so the pins weren't all the way thru. When I removed it I couldn't find any solder on one pin so it may not have been seated deeply enough and the solder only held to the circuit board and not the pin.


Extra thanks for those great closeups! They helped alot too with the really tiny traces from nearby components. I wasn't sure if pin 1 of IC6501 was connected to what looks like R6517 but your photo's clearly show its not suppose to be which it wasn't.


I still need to reassemble everything and try it again but its looking like there was a potential for my oops if that one pin wasn't making contact.


And yes, the chips were fully seated in the sockets and no bent pins so the socket not being fully seated on one side may have been the cause of missing that one pin connection. Sockets are now fully seated


Oh well, back to work if I'm going to get this running today.


----------



## Musicnutt

Well, either I'm totally missing something or its something else. Verified all connections, socket is fully seated, chips are fully seated and correctly oriented. Still get 7 blinks. Tried entering diagnostic mode with 'display, channel 5, volume -, power on, heard the usual clicks but nothing showed on-screen. Got 4 blinks after doing that. Hit channel 8, enter, to leave diagnostic mode. Tried powering up again, 7 blinks. Unplugged the set for 10 minutes and tried again, still 7 blinks.


Something tells me something else is wrong because the solder connections are good. I was attached to a static (ground) strap while handling new chips and no pins got bent inserting them.


Guess its a big doorstop now unless someone has another idea to try.


----------



## holonalu

Great pics!!!! Do you do weddings???????

JOKE!!!! Must be an annual thing with my KV40XBR700H, it's on strike again, I'm going to order the chips again from TRI State, or maybe just a rebuilt, thoroughly tested D board, with 18 pin sockets. Anyways, I don't even know how I'ld get this 300 lb monster out of here, I think with the stand It weighs even more. Will keep you posted.


Aloha from Maui, oh yea, it's about 78 out right now,,,BBBBRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!


----------



## holonalu

This Sony is possesed!!!!! Emailed TSM, left a note with Brandon regarding rebuilt D board or new IC's, figured I'ld get ahead of the game and yank the D-Board, Pulled the behemouth away from the wall, had the back off in just a few minutes, checked all the D board connections, just for kicks, I plugged it back in, turned it on, AND IT BLEW UP!!!!!!!TOOK OUT HALF OF KIHEI AND PART OF WAILEA!!!!!! Not really, but started right up, I've turned it on and off a few times, but it's definitlely going. I don't see how a connector can work it's way loose over time, but I must have had one not quite properly connected. May have been one of those inter board connectors, but those actually "snap" into place as it were. Anyways, was going to call Maui Movers to get rid of this thing, I'm sorry,,,,,,,,I didn't mean thing, I meant great piece of AV equipment, (for all I know the Sony could be reading my monitor, don't want to pee it off again), cause there's no way I could get it out of here myself,,,,,,,,,, maybe Sony had something else in mind when they sold a 300 lb Television, the TV, I'm sorry, Professional Audio/Visual equipment,(it could still be listening, or reading, kind of like that Stephen King book about the possesed car), that you can't really just, "throw into the trash" . Anyways, all is good,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,for the time being............


Aloha from Maui, it's dropped to 77, that's in the shade though, wait, it's dark out, so never mind............


----------



## lcaillo

The ICs often behave intermttently. A common test that many techs use is to use freeze spray on them to get them to work to verify that they are the actual problem in intermittent sets.


Connectors do not usually work their way loose (though some certainly can). What usually happens is that they don't have a large contact area to start with and corrosion over time causes enough resistance in the connection that it only works intermittently. Changes in temperature and humidity can affect the operation.


----------



## mysticbond007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *levy07* /forum/post/14765902
> 
> 
> Just got this tv for free from my neighbor who said it just needs a new power supply. Any suggestions on where to buy and fixing myself? Thanks.


*Hello levy07*,

I have the same Model and same issue. Were you able to fix it? Can you please let me know?


Most of the posts here are suggesting to replace IC MCZ3001DB but for other models. Will this fix work on my model KD-34XBR2? If any knows can you please share with me?


Thanks in dvance.


----------



## jdre

Musicnutt: My set shows picture after 11 quick blinks, maybe wait a little. Thanks for the compliments on pics! I use a basic Kodak C743 Easy Share. With your camera, it may work to zoom in from farther away. A tip from a paid site I get, not tried myself:


Dead, No picture or sound, standby lit blinks 7 times.

Found IC8002, Q8013, Q8014, and R8051 defective on the D Board.

Also fuse F501 on the A Board open.


Honalu: 15 here in the sun! Good your set is working again with no cost!


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15190836
> 
> 
> OK with me, do you use Paint to do that? The manual is at a website that has many free manuals.



I use a program called Faststone Image Viewer, basically cause I believe it is easier to use then MS paint.



This thread has made me so happy to see it is helping so many people with this problem, and saving them from landfills







.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vorteched_1* /forum/post/15203066
> 
> 
> The tech told me he didn't think it was the IC's as he was handing my board back to me. I'll have to call him and let him know that the internet was right



Just curious.. How much did he charge for what he did? I ask cause it is a good alt for those who can't do it themselves







.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/15242247
> 
> 
> Well, either I'm totally missing something or its something else. Verified all connections, socket is fully seated, chips are fully seated and correctly oriented. Still get 7 blinks. Tried entering diagnostic mode with 'display, channel 5, volume -, power on, heard the usual clicks but nothing showed on-screen. Got 4 blinks after doing that. Hit channel 8, enter, to leave diagnostic mode. Tried powering up again, 7 blinks. Unplugged the set for 10 minutes and tried again, still 7 blinks.
> 
> 
> Something tells me something else is wrong because the solder connections are good. I was attached to a static (ground) strap while handling new chips and no pins got bent inserting them.
> 
> 
> Guess its a big doorstop now unless someone has another idea to try.
> 
> 
> Nutt


----------



## Mark Goetz

I would like to also point out.....

If you notice in the pics the solder is in the shape of a "cone" (comes off the board up to a point on the pin). That is a great solder job (factory, lol). You would not get that good a solder job, but it should look pretty close to. If you get a "ball" look around the pin, means it is a really bad solder.


Good luck with all repairs and don't be frustrated if you don't get it right the 1st time. As Robert and others have pointed out, do some or lots of trial on crap boards or buy them at electronics store to practice on (cheap at say radio shack. can get small printed circuit board and small 8 pin integrated chip for couple bucks).


----------



## Musicnutt

jdre,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15247012
> 
> 
> Musicnutt: My set shows picture after 11 quick blinks, maybe wait a little.



You're getting 11 standby blinks? I thought 7 was the highest?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15247012
> 
> 
> A tip from a paid site I get, not tried myself:
> 
> 
> Dead, No picture or sound, standby lit blinks 7 times.
> 
> Found IC8002, Q8013, Q8014, and R8051 defective on the D Board.
> 
> Also fuse F501 on the A Board open.



Something tells me its time to quit now. As much as I'm tempted to try replacing those parts too? I'm simply out of time and my wife is running out of patience watching an old 13" set which is our only spare tv. Going from HD back to SD on a small screen is really wearing on my wife. She's even admitting she's been spoiled by our Sony HD *lol*. I had just started repainting the living room/dining room and hallway when my set started acting up. The hallway got finished but I wanted the tv fixed before moving it to our bedroom to work on the living room/dining room. Needless to say the paint job came grinding to a halt while trying to get the tv going again. I can't blow another week or more trying more parts that still may not fix the problem. I may go out this week and pick up a Panasonic Plasma PZ85U OR PZ80U to replace ours with so I can get this paint job back on track again.


Mark Goetz,


You'd asked someone else what it cost to have it serviced?


Back when this started I had called Sony and they had a tech call me for a home service call. The guy told me that it would be $413 to come out, pull out the D board, send it out to be rebuilt for about 3 weeks, and return to reinstall it for that flat rate with a 90 day warranty. But he advised against fixing it probably because of what new HDTV prices are.


Sinking $400+ into a 6 year old set when I can find a Panasonic Plasma for under a grand? It didn't make sense to have it fixed if I couldn't fix it myself for less and maybe get it to limp along for another year or so.


All in all, I'm very thankful for a site like this one. It was worth the attempt and I'm out less than $50 for trying 'the easy fix'. So I'm just one of the unlucky ones that more than those two chips would fix. It was definitely worth the try so thanks everyone for all your help. This site is a real gem.


----------



## holonalu

I'll second that!!! Great site, lots of information, Very intelligent folks giving advice, and, A TOTAL LACK OF PORN!!!!!! Well, so maybe it's not that great,,,,,,(joke),anyways, just turned the semi-trusty truly possessed XBR back on, sound came on, then, off, four blink code, hit the power on the remote again, and it started up just fine, is still going. Maybe my place is built on an ancient Hawaiian religious site, they did find one right up the road a few years back. And, then again, it just might be that temperature change thing, it did get down to almost 72 last night, and it's about 82 out right now,,,,,,,,maybe that ten degree swing created the problem????????????


Aloha from Maui


----------



## jdre

Musicnutt:



> Quote:
> You're getting 11 standby blinks? I thought 7 was the highest?



These are different blinks, as it gets itself going, as opposed to not going and shutting down. Those Panasonic 1080p 42/46 inch plasmas are a good deal. Maybe someone wants the set to fix if you put on Craigslist. (I'm too far away) or fix it later after the house projects are done and new plasma is on the job, calibrated (see Plasma forum).


Holanu: I think a *rare* "confused behavior" from the Sony is normal. It shouldn't be too temperature sensitive. Could be the same chips again. Mine worked in 30 degrees and 80 degrees range while in my garage.


Mark Goetz: Thanks for the solder compliment!







I soldered for a previous job, in mass quantities, fixing alarm keypads. Thankfully, I only do it at home now!


----------



## Musicnutt

jdre,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15250008
> 
> 
> Musicnutt:
> 
> These are different blinks, as it gets itself going, as opposed to not going and shutting down. Those Panasonic 1080p 42/46 inch plasmas are a good deal. Maybe someone wants the set to fix if you put on Craigslist. (I'm too far away) or fix it later after the house projects are done and new plasma is on the job, calibrated (see Plasma forum).



"If only" I could 'put it aside' till the painting is done and get back to it later. I'm in a 2nd floor condo and there's simply no room for it and another TV. I had to empty my entire living room/dining room into our garage for the paint job. I'm taking down a 'popcorn' ceiling in the process so those rooms will become a swamp while that's going on. As much as I don't want to get rid of it its just one of those 'perfect storms' where it couldn't have happened at a worse time. At 57, needless to say I'm not moving it out of here myself. So I'll pay to have it removed when they deliver the new one. Bottom line, circurmstances and timing have conspired to not make it feasible to fix it as much as my wife and I both regret that.


Sincerely, thanks to everyone here for trying to help. It just wasn't meant to be is our guess.


Anyone in the Chicagoland area is welcome to gut it for parts but they better act fast if they want it. I've already taken the speakers out of it since the sound of it was so phenominal for a TV. I'm not expecting the same sound quality out of any of the newer (thinner) models.


----------



## jdre




> Quote:
> I'm not expecting the same sound quality out of any of the newer (thinner) models.



That's for sure, you will probably end up connecting the new TV to surround, or at least to your stereo system. Good luck with the remodeling, now including a bigger TV.


----------



## mysticbond007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/15247493
> 
> 
> Just curious.. How much did he charge for what he did? I ask cause it is a good alt for those who can't do it themselves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Mark Goetz, After searching this thread I figure replacing *MCZ3001D* with the new updated *MCZ3001DB* on the D-board on my *KD-34XBR2* will probably fix the power up problem. (Seven blinks). Although I have not seen this specific Model being discussed here. Do you think it is safe to do this? Appreciate you comment/help.

Thanks

Jim


----------



## jdre

Go ahead, worth a try. D=DB for my set, same parts. If you feel uncertain, just get D's.


----------



## lcaillo

The DB is the later version. If you get the parts from Sony they will likely be the DB even if your set has the D version.


----------



## amarciszewski

I have an issue with my TV; it blinks 6 times after power up. I see a lot of successful repairs.

There is a lot of talk about IC's 8002 and 6501 (MCZ3001D) replacement, will this fit scenario.

All help would be nice.

Thank you


----------



## vorteched_1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/15247493
> 
> 
> Just curious.. How much did he charge for what he did? I ask cause it is a good alt for those who can't do it themselves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I paid $50. I probably overpaid but I didn't feel like shopping around.


----------



## holonalu

As was mentioned before, I got the rebuilt D board from Sony, everything is fine, except for the 4 blink code, which evidently clears itself after you power it back up. Any advice on how to recenter the picture???? It's off ot the right by maybe an inch, only really noticible when watching CNN with the spilt screen...Mahalo,,, oh, you guys on the mainland, we're sending you a slightly used storm, hope you enjoy,,,,,,,,, nothing like the Pineapple Express!!!


Aloha and melekalikimaka


----------



## musictrivianut

I, too, now have a KV34XBR800 that it has the problem described here (6 or 7 blinking lights). I've read through some, but not all, of the posts here and am going to give it a shot to see if I can repair it myself. I'm off to order a couple of replacement chips (MCZ3001DB) and will try to hit Radio Shack tomorrow for soldering equipment and a couple of sockets for the chips. I'll post again once I'm done (or if I run into problems). Thanks a zillion for all the useful information in this thread.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mysticbond007* /forum/post/15263366
> 
> 
> Mark Goetz, After searching this thread I figure replacing *MCZ3001D* with the new updated *MCZ3001DB* on the D-board on my *KD-34XBR2* will probably fix the power up problem. (Seven blinks). Although I have not seen this specific Model being discussed here. Do you think it is safe to do this? Appreciate you comment/help.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim



Heck ya!! Get the DB versions, as far as that goes it will work just fine and probably better







.

As we are all finding out (including Sony using them as replacements) it appears that the original D version is bad (they fail). Could simply be because something else is causing them to fail, and the replacements can handle whatever is thrown at them







Not sure, either way it would be best to use the DB version. At least, it is the same with these TVs that have the MCZ3001D in them. No matter the model #.



Sorry Holonalu







You are still having problems with yours. I guess it would be best to throw in the towel with your "possessed" XBR. LOL!!!

And on the temperature change?? I didn't mean that exactly







Sorry! I meant more for when you move the TV from outside to inside and there is a temp difference (example: like 40f outside and 70f inside). Condensation builds in the TV and you have to wait for the TV to "dry out" so to speak. I mentioned that for after a fix, you could have gotten things warm or hot around the chips and they may need to cool down (not because of condensation, but just cause heat is all electronics enemy) before you try to see if it worked.

Sorry about the confusion everyone...


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vorteched_1* /forum/post/15267538
> 
> 
> I paid $50. I probably overpaid but I didn't feel like shopping around.



No, just curious









It is an alt for someone that can't perform the repair them self.

Just happy to see another one fixed and hope it last another 5+ years for you







.


----------



## holonalu

Mark, the temp change thing was just kidding. Maui doesn't get very severe temp changes, unless of course you live waaayyyy upcountry. The possessed XBR works just fine, turn it on, sound comes up, it shuts itself off, four blinks, kind of like it's giving you the "finger", power back on, no problem, watching it right now. But the picture is defintely off center, and there's stuff in the back of this set that I don't want to mess with.............As far as a repair goes, I'ld stay away from the RS desoldering braid, get it from TSM, I believe it's what the pros use, the braid from RS didn't pick up anything....With these sets being so expensive when they first came out, and HEAVY!!!!!!, it may be better just to get a rebuilt D Board from TSM, they seem like very nice folks to me...

And, I still think this is a better picture than my 50" Panasonic DLP..


Aloha and melekalikimaka


----------



## musictrivianut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musictrivianut* /forum/post/15305572
> 
> 
> I, too, now have a KV34XBR800 that it has the problem described here (6 or 7 blinking lights). I've read through some, but not all, of the posts here and am going to give it a shot to see if I can repair it myself. I'm off to order a couple of replacement chips (MCZ3001DB) and will try to hit Radio Shack tomorrow for soldering equipment and a couple of sockets for the chips. I'll post again once I'm done (or if I run into problems). Thanks a zillion for all the useful information in this thread.



IC chips came in the mail today (that was quick for ground shipping), but I haven't been able to get out to get the soldering equipment (thank you so much, stomach virus). I'll probably do it on Saturday. Wish me luck.


----------



## musictrivianut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musictrivianut* /forum/post/15332197
> 
> 
> IC chips came in the mail today (that was quick for ground shipping), but I haven't been able to get out to get the soldering equipment (thank you so much, stomach virus). I'll probably do it on Saturday. Wish me luck.



Woohoo!!! Another TV saved from the landfill! It was a long process, but I did it.


I'll start with the fact that, until today, I had never held a soldering iron in my 40 years on this planet. I have all of the incredibly helpful information in this thread (Mark G and BobF, for sure) to thank for getting me through it.


Yesterday, my wife and I were in a craft store and she spied a craft-y soldering iron, so we grabbed it, figuring that I would only ever use it this once and then she could use it for whatever after that. This morning, I went to Radio Shack and got some desoldering braid, 60/40 0.050 wire (their recommendation) and the sockets. Well, the iron turned out to be too much (60 watts) and the tip was way too large (at least a 1/4 inch across at the base). Desoldering the first chip went fine, but soldering the new socket was just way too hard, so I ended up hitting Radio Shack again this afternoon and picked up a small 15-watt job with a pointed tip, as well as some smaller wire (0.022). The rest of the task went extremely well after that; soldered the first socket (having already placed the chip in it prior to that), desoldered the second and then put in the other new one. I have no idea which one was the problem; I just decided that, since I was already in there, I would just do them both. Slid the tray back in, reconnected all the wires, hit the power button and viola! It worked!


So, I saved at least $200 on the repair by doing it myself (or alternatively, the price of a new TV, since, more than likely, I would have just said "screw it" and "upgraded" to an LCD). Many, many thanks to all, again!


Wayne


----------



## jdre









Congratulations! I just got a 34HS510, similar to yours. I hope I can succeed as well. Enjoy!


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musictrivianut* /forum/post/15347683
> 
> 
> Woohoo!!! Another TV saved from the landfill! It was a long process, but I did it.
> 
> 
> I'll start with the fact that, until today, I had never held a soldering iron in my 40 years on this planet. I have all of the incredibly helpful information in this thread (Mark G and BobF, for sure) to thank for getting me through it.
> 
> 
> Yesterday, my wife and I were in a craft store and she spied a craft-y soldering iron, so we grabbed it, figuring that I would only ever use it this once and then she could use it for whatever after that. This morning, I went to Radio Shack and got some desoldering braid, 60/40 0.050 wire (their recommendation) and the sockets. Well, the iron turned out to be too much (60 watts) and the tip was way too large (at least a 1/4 inch across at the base). Desoldering the first chip went fine, but soldering the new socket was just way too hard, so I ended up hitting Radio Shack again this afternoon and picked up a small 15-watt job with a pointed tip, as well as some smaller wire (0.022). The rest of the task went extremely well after that; soldered the first socket (having already placed the chip in it prior to that), desoldered the second and then put in the other new one. I have no idea which one was the problem; I just decided that, since I was already in there, I would just do them both. Slid the tray back in, reconnected all the wires, hit the power button and viola! It worked!
> 
> 
> So, I saved at least $200 on the repair by doing it myself (or alternatively, the price of a new TV, since, more than likely, I would have just said "screw it" and "upgraded" to an LCD). Many, many thanks to all, again!
> 
> 
> Wayne



You rock! On a similar note, I installed my own dishwasher and soldered my first copper pipe successfully.


Yeah, I know...your story was cooler.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musictrivianut* /forum/post/15347683
> 
> 
> Woohoo!!! Another TV saved from the landfill! It was a long process, but I did it.
> 
> 
> I'll start with the fact that, until today, I had never held a soldering iron in my 40 years on this planet. I have all of the incredibly helpful information in this thread (Mark G and BobF, for sure) to thank for getting me through it.
> 
> 
> So, I saved at least $200 on the repair by doing it myself (or alternatively, the price of a new TV, since, more than likely, I would have just said "screw it" and "upgraded" to an LCD). Many, many thanks to all, again!
> 
> 
> Wayne




Congratulations!!!! Nice work for a "first timer"











Good luck jdre







Hope everything goes well.


As to Holonalu







... Ya, I was hoping you were kidding. Most might disagree with me, but I still think CRT TVs have a more real look to them (could be I am just so used to them, but the colors and depths seem more real). It is a shame that for CRTs to weigh hundreds of pounds for a bigger screen. But is why they are fast becoming dinosaurs







. In time LCDs and such will become better and I will get the feeling that a CRT is like a black and white TV of the 60s. Just not yet







, imo.....


Thanks to all that make these forums a success!!!!!!!


----------



## rizzo70

YES!!! Great forum, this is one of the best Ive been on so far for A/V repairs!

I would like to give a special thanks to the guys that posted the MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC info,,you guys are great!!







My neighbors Sony KVS 36hs 500

started doing the blinking thing 6 or 7 times I guess I actually never counted I just went by the symptoms that were described. Any way they asked me to help haul it to the dumpster because they were quoted $500 from a repair shop. Well being the geek that I am of course I said lets take it to my apartment. I then did the search and found the info on here,, I ordered the chips from Tri-state module and got them yesterday. And this morning I installed the new chips, I didn't check to see if it was one or the other that was bad I just installed them both and it now works just fine. I didn't go with the socket install just did the chips themselves. I'll burn it in overnight and then its back to the neighbors and I'll be $150 richer.









Great Idea cutting away the plastic for easy access,,everything went in with no problems...Thanks again guys.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rizzo70* /forum/post/15367481
> 
> 
> YES!!! Great forum, this is one of the best Ive been on so far for A/V repairs!
> 
> I would like to give a special thanks to the guys that posted the MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC info,,you guys are great!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My neighbors Sony KVS 36hs 500
> 
> started doing the blinking thing 6 or 7 times I guess I actually never counted I just went by the symptoms that were described. Any way they asked me to help haul it to the dumpster because they were quoted $500 from a repair shop. Well being the geek that I am of course I said lets take it to my apartment. I then did the search and found the info on here,, I ordered the chips from Tri-state module and got them yesterday. And this morning I installed the new chips, I didn't check to see if it was one or the other that was bad I just installed them both and it now works just fine. I didn't go with the socket install just did the chips themselves. I'll burn it in overnight and then its back to the neighbors and I'll be $150 richer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great Idea cutting away the plastic for easy access,,everything went in with no problems...Thanks again guys.



Congratulations on the successful repair!










What technique did you use for desoldering the existing ICs?


Bob


----------



## rizzo70

One more thing I thought I would mention.

The chips that were in the TV were the MCZ3001*D* Shindengen but I replaced them with the MCZ3001*DB* Shindengen and so far so good


----------



## rizzo70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15367611
> 
> 
> Congratulations on the successful repair!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What technique did you use for desoldering the existing ICs?
> 
> 
> Bob



I actually used my shop vac to suck up the solder. I had an attachment off of a pump for air mattresses that went from 1 1/5 inch to about a 1/4 inch. I then electrical taped the part of a pen that the tip comes out of to the small end of the attachment stuck it on the hose turned on the vac and had it all desoldered in under 5 minutes and with the large paper clip that I made into a small pry bar the chips came off with the first try.

If you haven't done allot of soldering just be careful that you don't damage the pads on the circuit board by over heating them or pulling them loose when you pry on the chip.

Also when you solder the new chips or sockets in place don't overheat and don't over solder,, or use so much that it flows on the circuit side of the board. An electric iron is the best way to do it the butane irons are hard to regulate temp on.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rizzo70* /forum/post/15367823
> 
> 
> I actually used my shop vac to suck up the solder. I had an attachment off of a pump for air mattresses that went from 1 1/5 inch to about a 1/4 inch. I then electrical taped the part of a pen that the tip comes out of to the small end of the attachment stuck it on the hose turned on the vac and had it all desoldered in under 5 minutes and with the large paper clip that I made into a small pry bar the chips came off with the first try.
> 
> If you haven't done allot of soldering just be careful that you don't damage the pads on the circuit board by over heating them or pulling them loose when you pry on the chip.
> 
> Also when you solder the new chips or sockets in place don't overheat and don't over solder,, or use so much that it flows on the circuit side of the board. An electric iron is the best way to do it the butane irons are hard to regulate temp on.



Wow! That was a very ingenious desoldering setup. That must have generated a substantial amount of suction.


I used desoldering braid when I replaced the two ICs in my KV-36XBR400 and that worked great. But I'm always curious to see what techniques others have used. I didn't have much luck with the squeeze bulb and spring loaded suction tools that I tried.


----------



## rizzo70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15367903
> 
> 
> Wow! That was a very ingenious desoldering setup. That must have generated a substantial amount of suction.
> 
> 
> I used desoldering braid when I replaced the two ICs in my KV-36XBR400 and that worked great. But I'm always curious to see what techniques others have used. I didn't have much luck with the squeeze bulb and spring loaded suction tools that I tried.



I actually had to hurry so the vac motor didn't over heat, but as soon as the solder was flowing just one quick touch of the vac and the solder was gone.

Like I said under 5 minutes


----------



## jdre

I'll have to remember that vacuum idea! I have a vacuum desolderer but it is only 1 pump at a time, and clogs up a lot. I've had good luck with the desolder braid. Best to be sure each pin wiggles before prying the old chip out.


----------



## Txstick

I just used the info in this thread to fix my 40" XBR800. Thanks to all. I cut the support that is in the way with a hack saw blade (cuts like butter) and removed the chips with wick. Just took my time and cut the wick after every leg desoldered. Worked like a champ. Put in the sockets and plugged in the chips. The 300 pound beast has been working great since the 24th when I did the fix.







It is a little tricky to solder upside down, but it can be done. Just don't rush. It is not to hard to get to in the maintenance position. By the way I originally had the 7 blink problem with no turn on.


chuck


----------



## amarciszewski

Got IC's MCZ3001DB Shindenge and my TV 32HS500 is working perfecly. WOW it cost me $30 for IC's and $3 for 18 pin sockets. Plus abot 1 hour of work. this is much better then $300 quated.


Thank you all.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Txstick* /forum/post/15379353
> 
> 
> I just used the info in this thread to fix my 40" XBR800. Thanks to all. I cut the support that is in the way with a hack saw blade (cuts like butter) and removed the chips with wick. Just took my time and cut the wick after every leg desoldered. Worked like a champ. Put in the sockets and plugged in the chips. The 300 pound beast has been working great since the 24th when I did the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a little tricky to solder upside down, but it can be done. Just don't rush. It is not to hard to get to in the maintenance position. By the way I originally had the 7 blink problem with no turn on.
> 
> 
> chuck



This is a great thread and enjoyed reading about all the DIY fixes. I've owned my beloved KV-40XBR800 since Dec. 2002 and fortunately this problem has not shown up...yet! Good to know I do have recourse if those chips fail on me as I would like to keep my Baby Huey 40XBR even after I decide when to upgrade to the Pioneer Elite 60"er. The PQ on this set rocks, and I've got a spot all picked out in the kitchen corner for its retirement resting place.


----------



## jdre

Sweet kitchen TV!


----------



## joesoni

I've got a KV-34HS510. I replaced the MCZ3001DB in the 8002 position a couple weekends prior to Thanksgiving. It worked like a charm....for a while. Christmas week it started failing again with six blinks. We just left the TV on for about a week till my wife turned it off one day and of course, it wouldn't come back on. I opened it up, replaced chip 8002 again (I had soldered in a socket) and it's now working again.


Anyone else had a similar experience? Particularly those that only replaced 8002 instead of both chips? Was I unlucky enough to get another bum chip? I bought my replacement chips from TSM.


Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joesoni* /forum/post/15397946
> 
> 
> I've got a KV-34HS510. I replaced the MCZ3001DB in the 8002 position a couple weekends prior to Thanksgiving. It worked like a charm....for a while. Christmas week it started failing again with six blinks. We just left the TV on for about a week till my wife turned it off one day and of course, it wouldn't come back on. I opened it up, replaced chip 8002 again (I had soldered in a socket) and it's now working again.
> 
> 
> Anyone else had a similar experience? Particularly those that only replaced 8002 instead of both chips? Was I unlucky enough to get another bum chip? I bought my replacement chips from TSM.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Your report is the first I recall reading of a replacement MCZ3001D or the "DB" variant failing. And that includes about two years of reading this forum and Agoraquest's Television Troubleshooting forum.


It might be that you simply got a bad IC or perhaps there's something else going on within your set that's causing good ICs to fail.


In any case, at least the replacement was easy with the socket you installed.


Be sure to post an update if your replacement fails.


----------



## lcaillo

It is more likely that there was nothing wrong with the chip and the other one is failing intermittently or the socket connections are presenting an impedance that creates a problem.


I will say again, as I have many times, it is not advised to use sockets nor to replace one of the chips and not the other.


----------



## joesoni

I'll definitely re-post if I have more problems.


The symptoms this time were identical to the first. Initially the TV would kick-off after power-up (6 blinks), but if you immediately pressed the power button again it would come on. After a couple days the TV would turn off after power up and would not power on unless you unplugged the TV briefly. A few days later, you had to leave the TV unplugged for several hours. A few days after that, if turned off, the TV will never come back on even if unplugged for days. This makes me think it's not the other chip, since the problem was not intermittent - it was progressively worse until complete failure, and replacing 8002 fixed it both times.


I am going to keep the chip I just took out (the first replacement). If I have trouble again, I'll try re-installing that one just to be sure it had actually failed.


----------



## lcaillo

You could also have a problem with a related component, but again, just change both ICs, not just the 8002, and solder them in properly. If your socket is causing problems you could blow the FETs.


----------



## jdre

I think I might have bad FETS near IC8002 in my 34HS510. I get power up, degauss, hear the yoke scan sounds and a slight pop in speakers, then 6 repeating blinks. Also, the set tries to turn on when first plugged into the wall. Have to check into it closer, when garage is above 25 degrees


----------



## lcaillo

If the FETs are bad they will be shorted. Easy to test. If they are shorted, change the chip anyway, as it was likely the cause.


----------



## dilla

The advice in this forum is on point and helped me make a successful repair 1/2/2008


Given: Sony KV-32HV600; best picture all time. Bought TV in 2002. $1600. This Tv has twin tuner, sub-woofer, clock display, etc.


Problem: 2004 would not power up; same symptoms as above. Unplug comes on; but got progressively worse until complete failure. Six blinks power on power off then seven blinks. Paid $600 to have the complete D board replaced by Sears.


December 2008 same problem occurred. I did not want to cut my losses.


Solution: Try the self diagnostic function from your remote first.


In standby mode which is (OFF)---press buttons on the remote commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as below:


DISPLAY, then Channel (5) then volume (-) then Power ON the self diagnosis screen should come on, however it did not come on on my TV. It did work after I made the repair. I think this applies to all Sony TVs.


If you have the number 0 this means no fault. If you see number 1 that means a fault was detected only one time. N/A is another. After you make the repair, reset the display by pressing Channel (8) and then enter while in the self diagnostic screen. This resets the memory on all fault modes to zero.


SELF DIAGNOSIS

2: +B OCP (over current)

3: +B OVP (over voltage)

4: VSTOP (Vertical Deflection)

5: AKB (White Balance?)

6: LOWB = (OCP/OVP; Over current; Over voltage); both

7: H-STOP


My repair Experience:


1. I turned TV around in my cabinet; saw the repairman do this in 2004.

2. Removed all required screws indicated by arrow (approx. 16 each)

3. Removed additional screws attached to AV inputs and outputs on back of TV.

4. Removed back cover.

5. I decided to replace both the IC6501 and IC8002 (18 pin approx 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long; black) with the new MCZ3001DB $5.99 each at(TSM Tri State Module INC 1-800-203-7484). I did not use sockets because I was to impatient to find them. The IC6501 was obstructed; so the D-board had to be removed (eight screws; two plastic hold downs; disconnected six wiring connectors; and lifted four connections that connected the D-board to the A-board; these were the hardest. You need a very small screw driver or pick to pry two plastic fingers outward while lifting up; do one side at a time.


IMPORTANT: The capacitor in these TVs can still hold voltage even after being unplugged. My buddy asked me to video my repair; I asked why he said many people have been shocked and have been thrown across rooms holding TVs. He wanted a good laugh. I got lucky.


6. Draw a diagram for approximate location and orientation of each connector (colors), screws, plastic clamps, etc. (very helpful). Note pulling on the chassis will allow it to side out a few inches giving you more access.


7. Next disconnect the large red wire that is connected to the CRT tube glass. Be careful-- lift the rubber flap and using thumb an another finger rotate the flap and connector away/off. I was told that I could discharge the voltage by touching the metal clips under the flap to the metal surrounding the fly back on the D-board; this is to ground.


8. There are two more wires one red and one white that have to be disconnected leading from the Fly back up to a board connected to the back of the CRT tube. I recommend cutting both of these. I tried removing the white one and the clip holding it broke off. The wire in both of these are solid and not strand or braided, so I assumed the metal clip was splitting the signal or circuit. To make the repair I desoldered the clip and soldered a plain wire to make the bridge and resoldered the white wire to it later.


8. Note: Pin 17 and 13 on both ICs were never soldered so do not solder them when replacing the ICs.


9. I spent $26 at radio shack (soldering iron 15watt, .032 solder, solder braid, rubber suction desoldering bulb, and a can of compressed air).


10. Draw diagram of orientation of both ICs noting pin location 18 and 1. Note there is a little circular imprint on one side on ICs between 18 and 1.


11. From bottom of D-board/IC touch tip of soldering iron to solder to be removed. When it melts suck it away. The braid did not work well for me; the soldering iron tip was to small. Shine a flash light from the IC side; if you see daylight it is possible enough solder has been removed from each pin to allow the IC to be removed.


12. Put the new ICs in place and resolder.


13. Replace board, screws and make all connections do not forget the ones that connect the D-board (left side looking at rear) to the A-board right side looking at rear).


14. Connect the large red connector back to the CRT, and spice and tape the small red and white wires.


15. PLug and play!!! Total cost $64 (ICs $19 (shipping), $19 service manual on line(helpful but not required), $26 solder etc.) Total time 3 - 4 hours over a couple of days (I'm a rookie with no electronic experience)


Be safe and take your time you can do it.


----------



## pells61

I have a KV-40xbr700 that has no picture but does get sound from all inputs. It has a nasty habbit of blinking eleven times after the first power on, the start up that the screen degauses during, during the second power on the screen doesnt degause and the stand by light blinks only five times never repeates. I think my problem lies on the C board on the ic's IC9001-9003, one of them at least.


I have voltage issues

Here is my voltage readings at each pin using a Fluke multimeter

Also note that i pick up static in the speakers when i take a reading on pin 7










These are the voltages from sony's service manual










Board layout from Sony's service manual










Schematics from Sony's service manual


----------



## jdre




> Quote:
> I have a KV-40xbr700 that has no picture but does get sound from all inputs. It has a nasty habbit of blinking eleven times after the first power on, the start up that the screen degauses during, during the second power on the screen doesnt degause and the stand by light blinks only five times never repeates.



See if the CRT has the filaments glowing near the socket. Do you hear the High Voltage static crackle at all when you power it up?


----------



## pells61

I hear the high voltage crackle only once during the first power up any power ups after i hear no degauss. As far as the CRT filaments i see nothing not a glow not a twinkle a nothin!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pells61* /forum/post/15454590
> 
> 
> I hear the high voltage crackle only once during the first power up any power ups after i hear no degauss. As far as the CRT filaments i see nothing not a glow not a twinkle a nothin!



FYI. The initial bwzZZT you hear at startup is the degaussing circuit. After initially energizing, it will not energize again for 10-15 minutes regardless of the number of power cycles. Degaussing creates a lot of heat in the degauss coil which is the reason for the timeout requirements.


----------



## pells61

is the voltage discrepancy anything to worry about on the C board if not should i investigate further? also does my tv not giving picture but sound line up with my faulty IC on the C board hypothesis?


----------



## jdre

I *think* your problem lies in the D board, possibly no 135V. IC 6501 drives the power supply for the speakers, if they work, IC 6501 is OK and the DC output 135V could be missing. Take a look at the D board schematic, lower right section, "crt heater" parts are powered by a circuit that runs the yoke and gets 15V to other circuits.


----------



## pells61

Sorry for the late response but i have found some strange things on some of the IC's on D-board. First off i find that after some time of being on the cathode filaments on the back side of the tube begin to glow a very faint orange. I put the Tv into its service position with the A and D board parallel with the C board and i proceeded to test voltages on IC 5005 (H-cent) and 5006 (heater-out). For my testing on IC5005 i found that i had relatively the same voltages on each pin maybe plus or minus 1.5 volts except on pin 3 which i get a positive 93.7 instead of the list manufacture voltage of *NEGATIVE* 95.3 volts. I have readings from ic 5006 but i am not sure if i tested the correct legs on the conductor side of the board so i will post a picture with the readings i took on each leg later on in the day when i have time to upload images. Thanks for everyone's help with my problem and i hope by this Thursday i will have my good ol' TV back


----------



## jdre

I looked at my schematics, similar sets, and pin3 IC 5005 is Positive 95V.


----------



## pells61

Here is the voltages from what I believe to be IC5006 including 2 extra as I am unsure the exact contacts from IC5006 since I cannot see it from the top side.


----------



## pells61




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15456817
> 
> 
> I *think* your problem lies in the D board, possibly no 135V. IC 6501 drives the power supply for the speakers, if they work, IC 6501 is OK and the DC output 135V could be missing. Take a look at the D board schematic, lower right section, "crt heater" parts are powered by a circuit that runs the yoke and gets 15V to other circuits.



I see "heater out" and "heater rect" I seem to be unable to find any 15v power sources around there or am I looking at the wrong thing?


----------



## jdre

I looked again, I was wrong. No 15V supply there. You do have filament voltages, the orange glow is dim from the tube neck. Can you see 3 filaments lit in the tube? I looked at previous post, you have low voltage on pin 5 of all the CRT ICs. Pin 5 is Ik, which would correlate with the 5 blinks you get.


----------



## jdre

Any luck?


----------



## marksaabparts

Have a kv-32hs500 and I read on here after having the standby light blinking 7 times repeatedly and installed a socket and a icmcd3001db and $40. later have a set that starts up like new.

I was in a panic after paying real estate taxes, going all out for Christmas, and taking the family away for new years the last thing I needed was to replace an expensive TV.

Thank you so much all who contributed and helped with the details and encouragement.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marksaabparts* /forum/post/15513259
> 
> 
> Have a kv-32hs500 and I read on here after having the standby light blinking 7 times repeatedly and installed a socket and a icmcd3001db and $40. later have a set that starts up like new.
> 
> I was in a panic after paying real estate taxes, going all out for Christmas, and taking the family away for new years the last thing I needed was to replace an expensive TV.
> 
> Thank you so much all who contributed and helped with the details and encouragement.



Congratulations!










Bob


----------



## FMTRVT

Another attempt at raising a 34XBR800 from the 7 blinks of death thanks to this thread.


Going to make lcaillo cringe, but I took the easy route and cut the support bar on the bottom panel for access to the one chip's legs. It was just easier then unplugging and unscrewing everything to pull the D board. If I was a paid tech on this job, I'd go by the book.


I have the OE Sony stand for this unit, so moved the TV sideways, then after placing a heavy towel on the stand, faced it nose down. Unscrewed and lifted off the rear cover. Removed the speaker assembly from the left side. Moved it back upright and while I had the Dremel kit out used a narrow diameter carbide grid bit to remove a set of legs on one side of each chip. Then bent the chip back and forth to fatigue break the other side legs. Vacuumed off the dust remains of the the chip itself from the board. TV back on it's nose to unsolder the legs then solder in new chips (no sockets - I listened lcaillo). Placed upright, re-power and got the "HD" display in the upper right corner. Cool. Reassemble the case, move it into position and plug everything from the D* receiver and DVD back in.


Sit back, hit the remote to turn everything on, the HD indcator comes back on and ........... nothing







. Not exactly nothing, we get the heading with the channel info. Turn back off and restart, same thing. Display shows HD, then headers, but no video or sound. Recheck all connections and everything is OK.


So here I'm thinking did I get a cold solder on one of the pins







? Did I crack a board







? Hooked up D* by component. Nothing. Put in a DVD into the player and ................ everything works fine. Great, did I screw up the HD processing circuit?


So I'm spending an hour looking at the manual to see where I may have taken a wrong path. Go back and look at the service diagnostics on the screen. All 0s, nothing is wrong. Didn't even have to clear the history from the 7 blinks of death.


So after two hours of screwing around trying to figure out why header but no sound or video I remember that our HR20 has handled re-powering poorly a few times. So to my wife's trepidation I pull the plug on the HR20 and then re-power it after a few minutes of drain time so we can go though the long path of initialization.


Finishes it's thing and now have video and sound. Yea!







It even restarted after shutting it off and trying again














.


So now with 5 hours of continuous running time I can say in my best Cheech & Chong imitation "Lookin Good".


(Of course we all know it's the powering up that's the problem, not 5 hours of running.)


Thanks to all who came before me.


----------



## kstoker30

when i trie to power on the relay on the d board pops then turns off and standby blinks 6 and 7 times any suggestions would be appreciated


----------



## jdre

Welcome, and go to page 4 of this topic as a good start. Best bet is to replace the 2 MCZ3001D ICs.


----------



## dirtha

Great forum and informative thread! I appear to have the 6/7 blink problem on my KV-34HS510. While ordering parts from Tri-state Module, I found that they recommend replacing some capacitors (C6503 & C6590 on D-board) and resistors (EY092 & EY095 on D-board) when replacing the MCZ3001DB IC's.


This was the first mention I'd seen of these parts in regard to this repair and I wondered if anybody had any thoughts or advice.


Thanking you in advance!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dirtha* /forum/post/15596280
> 
> 
> Great forum and informative thread! I appear to have the 6/7 blink problem on my KV-34HS510. While ordering parts from Tri-state Module, I found that they recommend replacing some capacitors (C6503 & C6590 on D-board) and resistors (EY092 & EY095 on D-board) when replacing the MCZ3001DB IC's.
> 
> 
> This was the first mention I'd seen of these parts in regard to this repair and I wondered if anybody had any thoughts or advice.
> 
> 
> Thanking you in advance!



Personally, I've read of so many successful repairs that involved just the replacement of one or more of the MCZ3001D ICs that I would be hesitant to replace the capacitors and resistors. So I would first replace the ICs and see if that corrected the problem.


FWIW, I replaced the two D-Board MCZ3001D ICs on my KV-36XBR400 over two years ago and the TV has worked perfectly ever since.


Good luck with your repair attempt!










Bob


----------



## lcaillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15596994
> 
> 
> Personally, I've read of so many successful repairs that involved just the replacement of one or more of the MCZ3001D ICs that I would be hesitant to replace the capacitors and resistors. So I would first replace the ICs and see if that corrected the problem.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I replaced the two D-Board MCZ3001D ICs on my KV-36XBR400 over two years ago and the TV has worked perfectly ever since.
> 
> 
> Good luck with your repair attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



Good advice. As a repair tech, I don't even waste time doing much troubleshooting in these sets until I replace the ICs. This fixes over 90% of them. The rest can have one of many problems and the failures do not have enough of a pattern to justify other parts up front. Check that the FETs are not shorted and change the ICs, then if you have more problems deal with it.


----------



## investcash

I installed sockets and replaced both IC's on my Sony KV-32HS500 and still get 7 blinks. Diagnostics show following screen:

VERSION 0 0 SERVICE

VER FULL TV


F/A 11111111 10111111

CBA 00000000 00000001


From other posts, 7 blinks indicates Horizontal Deflection Stopped.

+B over current detected (IC 5007)

or

Overheating is detected, thermistor (TH 5002)


My screen stays on for only few seconds. Last thing I see a momentary bright vertical line in the center of the screen as the unit shuts down.

Any ideas/suggestions what to tackle next?

Wife says scap it but I would love to fix it and use it in the basement.

Go Steelers!!!!!! TIA


----------



## FedericoB

I had never done any soldering/electronic in my life! I downloaded Dave's pics and instructions, ordered the parts ($23), went to RS and got tools (Soldering iron, vacuum bulb. chip extractor, silver solder $40). Took apart TV and layed it on its face...board part slides up and out.... Only problem I met was trying to slip socket into board...skipped and put chip (larger legs) directly in and soldered in place. Picture perfect! Local repairman had asked for $75 "check" and probably $400 solution...parts were easily ordered and arrived within 3-4 business days - thanks to Dave's links!!!!


----------



## FedericoB

Forgot to mention Dave's posts 108-111. Really helpful!


----------



## dirtha

Just to follow up on my previous post (#413), yesterday I replaced both MCZ3001D ICs.


I removed the speaker enclosures above D-board, and unplugged all wires and "flip-up" connectors except those going to the flyback transformer. I was then able to stand the board on edge, stabilized by a Quick-Grip® clamp fixed to a well placed heat-sink. I could then access both sides of the board easily. De-soldering braid is amazing! I also installed 18 pin sockets.


After re-connecting things, I hit the remote power button , heard the degauss thunk, and................nothing! Despair started to set in. But then, PICTURE!

I forgot how long it takes this set to warm up.


Anyway thank you to all on this thread, your posted experiences and advice made my repair possible. My wife is flabbergasted!


----------



## Mark Goetz

Congrats!

another success!!!


----------



## Juancho1

Hello all,


A few months ago I found an abandoned Sony KV34HS510 outside a home who's owners were moving. I took the t.v. hoping it was still working but, of course, when I plugged it in, it didn't turn on. It gave me the characteristic 6 and 7 red blinks of death. Thankfully, after doing some research on the internet, I found a repair manual and forums such as this one that have pointed me in the right direction. I just ordered my two IC chips and am waiting patiently for them. I should receive them sometime this week and will update this post once I begin my repair.


----------



## jdre

Be very careful removing the old chips, make sure they are loose, don't want to tear the board traces. Hope to hear how good it's now working!


----------



## Juancho1

I received my two IC chips about an hour ago and rushed home to finish my repair. Two days ago, I decided to begin taking apart my t.v. to get a head start on my repair. I removed the rear cover and contemplated removing the entire D-board to simplify my repair. I decided it wasn't feasible to do this because I didn't want to start yanking large red wires out







I didn't want to put my t.v. face down and cut plastic pieces off the bottom, so, I decided to remove the eight screws that hold the D-board in place and prop it up to give me easier access to the solder points underneath. I searched the TSM website for the notorious chips of death and read a note that recommended I also replace two large capacitors (C6503 and C6590) and two resistors (EY092 and EY095) to prevent the problem from returning. So, I bought the capacitors, resistors, and IC sockets. My wife bought the IC chips off ebay. I received the parts from TSM yesterday and began the laborious task of replacing the capacitors and resistors. I also took out the IC's and soldered the sockets in their place. That took me about 3 hours to do and, after I was done, put the D-board back the way it was before. Fast-forward to today and the first thing I did when I got home was to put my anti-static wrist strap on and put those IC's in their sockets. Some cursing and 10 minutes later and I can proudly say my t.v. works again!!







It was probably the best $29 I've ever spent considering I got the t.v. for free...







Some lessons learned about this experience:


1) Be patient. I found myself trying to rush, which isn't a good thing when trying to fix something.


2) Make sure you have quality tools on hand. I labored through this process with a semi-functioning solder extractor.


3) Solder wick is a must! Especially if replacing large components.


All in all, it was a fun experience and an even better feeling when you see the fruits of your labor in the form of an fully-functioning HDTV! I knew that military training I received in electronics would come in handy some day!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Juancho1* /forum/post/15695193
> 
> 
> I received my two IC chips about an hour ago and rushed home to finish my repair. Two days ago, I decided to begin taking apart my t.v. to get a head start on my repair. I removed the rear cover and contemplated removing the entire D-board to simplify my repair. I decided it wasn't feasible to do this because I didn't want to start yanking large red wires out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't want to put my t.v. face down and cut plastic pieces off the bottom, so, I decided to remove the eight screws that hold the D-board in place and prop it up to give me easier access to the solder points underneath. I searched the TSM website for the notorious chips of death and read a note that recommended I also replace two large capacitors (C6503 and C6590) and two resistors (EY092 and EY095) to prevent the problem from returning. So, I bought the capacitors, resistors, and IC sockets. My wife bought the IC chips off ebay. I received the parts from TSM yesterday and began the laborious task of replacing the capacitors and resistors. I also took out the IC's and soldered the sockets in their place. That took me about 3 hours to do and, after I was done, put the D-board back the way it was before. Fast-forward to today and the first thing I did when I got home was to put my anti-static wrist strap on and put those IC's in their sockets. Some cursing and 10 minutes later and I can proudly say my t.v. works again!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was probably the best $29 I've ever spent considering I got the t.v. for free...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some lessons learned about this experience:
> 
> 
> 1) Be patient. I found myself trying to rush, which isn't a good thing when trying to fix something.
> 
> 
> 2) Make sure you have quality tools on hand. I labored through this process with a semi-functioning solder extractor.
> 
> 
> 3) Solder wick is a must! Especially if replacing large components.
> 
> 
> All in all, it was a fun experience and an even better feeling when you see the fruits of your labor in the form of an fully-functioning HDTV! I knew that military training I received in electronics would come in handy some day!




Congratulations on your successful repair!










I know the wonderful feeling when the TV fires up properly.



I have a couple of questions.


What is the model number of your Sony?


Did you need to "pre-bend" the IC legs in order to align them to the socket holes?


----------



## cletis234

My Inlaws 34xbr800 died 3 weeks ago. So I took them to buy a new Tv cause they didn't want to pay to fix it and if I fixed it they still wouldn't be able to trust it.


So I picked it up and brought it home. I found avs forums and this post and did the repair.


The issue was, 6 blinks, which is low B+. Which means 1 or both mcz3001d's are bad.


I bought 2 18 pin dip mounts at $.10 each and 2 chips for $10.00 a piece.


Did the repair last night and all is well this night. I also cleared the code after repair was done.


No codes so far and Tv powers right up.


This has been a great post with some great info and pics. Thanks to everyone here.


Now I have a great 34" widescreen HD Tv for the bedroom.


Thank You!!!


----------



## jdre

Congratulations on your successful repairs! (Now, I need to find out why mine is unsuccessful!)


Robert F: prebending the legs vertically is a good idea, to avoid forcing the chip or bending it wrong.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15699803
> 
> 
> 
> Robert F: prebending the legs vertically is a good idea, to avoid forcing the chip or bending it wrong.




Agreed!


I needed to slightly bend the legs outward on both of the ICs I installed. That was easier to do before I installed the sockets.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dilla* /forum/post/15443647
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Next disconnect the large red wire that is connected to the CRT tube glass. Be careful-- lift the rubber flap and using thumb an another finger rotate the flap and connector away/off. I was told that I could discharge the voltage by touching the metal clips under the flap to the metal surrounding the fly back on the D-board; this is to ground.
> 
> 
> 8. There are two more wires one red and one white that have to be disconnected leading from the Fly back up to a board connected to the back of the CRT tube. I recommend cutting both of these. I tried removing the white one and the clip holding it broke off. The wire in both of these are solid and not strand or braided, so I assumed the metal clip was splitting the signal or circuit. To make the repair I desoldered the clip and soldered a plain wire to make the bridge and resoldered the white wire to it later.



I have the Sony KV-40XBR800 purchased new in Dec. 2002 from CC. I am right in the middle of this 6-7 Blink repair, new IC's are installed, and am now ready to re-connect everything but I have a problem and need help.


Upon beginning the repair, I had slid out the component tray examining the situation. Later, I noticed that the "white" wire coming from the Flyback to the C-Board (?) behind the Yoke had disconnected itself from the C-Board or perhaps got pulled a bit. There are three(3) wires coming out of the Flyback. One large red wire that goes to the CRT, one smaller gauge red wire going to the C-Board behind the Yoke, and then one smaller gauge "white" wire w/a red connection tip that I think goes to the C-Board as well. I can not seem to find exactly where this white is to be re-connected. I welcome & appreciate all help in this matter. Thanks.


PS: I quoted "dilla" as he mentioned the white wire on the Flyback. This is Post #395 on Page 14.


----------



## jdre

White wire with red tip connects to CN9009 along the bottom edge of the CX or C board. Did it pull off the red part, if so, make sure you can get the wire connected, or no picture, hope you already fixed it.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15706244
> 
> 
> White wire with red tip connects to CN9009 along the bottom edge of the CX or C board. Did it pull off the red part, if so, make sure you can get the wire connected, or no picture, hope you already fixed it.



Thanks for your response. The red tip was still attached to the white wire. After a lot of research on the net and some help, I did find out that this is the G2 Wire, and goes in the C-Board at CN9009. Figuring out how to re-attatch it, I removed the red tip, exposing the one wire. I had a choice of two holes to re-solder to. One hole that is on the left as you're facing the C-Board from the back had no solder. The hole on the right had solder, so I chose this one. I de-soldered it clearing the hole, threaded the stripped white wire in and soldered it in place. The length of that wire does not allow it to any further over.


I then buttoned everything back up, turned on the TV, no go. I heard a click, got 3 red blinking lights, and nothing. No picture, not anything. Very disappointing. Right now, I'm at a standstill. Did I connect that white G2 wire properly? Could that be what's wrong?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/15707885
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response. The red tip was still attached to the white wire. After a lot of research on the net and some help, I did find out that this is the G2 Wire, and goes in the C-Board at CN9009. Figuring out how to re-attatch it, I removed the red tip, exposing the one wire. I had a choice of two holes to re-solder to. One hole that is on the left as you're facing the C-Board from the back had no solder. The hole on the right had solder, so I chose this one. I de-soldered it clearing the hole, threaded the stripped white wire in and soldered it in place. The length of that wire does not allow it to any further over.
> 
> 
> I then buttoned everything back up, turned on the TV, no go. I heard a click, got 3 red blinking lights, and nothing. No picture, not anything. Very disappointing. Right now, I'm at a standstill. Did I connect that white G2 wire properly? Could that be what's wrong?



Well that's frustrating.










I have no idea if the G2 wire is causing the 3 blink problem, but here are some general suggestions.


If you haven't already, you might want to disconnect and firmly reconnect _any_ connectors that you pulled apart during the repair. You might even want to pull and reseat the ICs in the sockets. Maybe there's a bad connection somewhere.


Did you buy any spare MCZ3001D ICs? If so, you might want to swap one of those out with the installed ICs in the event you got a bad IC. (That's probably unlikely but it's easy to check with the sockets.)


How well did your desoldering go? Is there any chance that you pulled up any of the PCB trace material during that?


Finally, does the three blink pattern repeat? In other words, does the standby light blink three times, pause and blink three times again? If not, it's not a diagnostic code. If it does repeat you might want to search for possible three blink causes.


Good Luck!


----------



## cajieboy

Hi Robert, thanks for your help. The 3 red blinks is a one time deal. It only happens when you push the power button on the remote. There is a click, but not the whump you normally hear when the TV's degaussing at start, then the 3 red blinking sequence, and then nothing. No pic, not anything.


I have unplugged all connections I touched during my IC repair, and re-plugged them carefully, etc. One thing I'm unsure of is that G2 white wire connection. This is my concern and it may not even matter. On the end was a little red connector tip that apparently had 2 little prongs. When I took it off, there was only one wire there, so I chose to solder it to the right hole that had solder on it, leaving the other hole blank. When I saw a pic on the internet, both of those little prongs were in their holes there on the C-Board. I can't help wondering if I did this G2 wire connection properly. Do you have schematics, etc. on this part?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/15709320
> 
> 
> Hi Robert, thanks for your help. The 3 red blinks is a one time deal. It only happens when you push the power button on the remote. There is a click, but not the whump you normally hear when the TV's degaussing at start, then the 3 red blinking sequence, and then nothing. No pic, not anything.
> 
> 
> I have unplugged all connections I touched during my IC repair, and re-plugged them carefully, etc. One thing I'm unsure of is that G2 white wire connection. This is my concern and it may not even matter. On the end was a little red connector tip that apparently had 2 little prongs. When I took it off, there was only one wire there, so I chose to solder it to the right hole that had solder on it, leaving the other hole blank. When I saw a pic on the internet, both of those little prongs were in their holes there on the C-Board. I can't help wondering if I did this G2 wire connection properly. Do you have schematics, etc. on this part?



Unfortunately, I don't have any additional information on that part. Perhaps one the service technicians that are also forum members could help out.


I'd suggest swapping the wire to the other possible location but I'd worry that might short something out.


Unless something was damaged during the repair, you would think that you could at least get back to your original 6/7 blink pattern.


Did you search for possible causes of the non-repeating three blink sequence?


Try a search on Agoraquest's "Television Troubleshooting" forum also.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15709469
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have any additional information on that part. Perhaps one the service technicians that are also forum members could help out.
> 
> 
> I'd suggest swapping the wire to the other possible location but I'd worry that might short something out.
> 
> 
> Unless something was damaged during the repair, you would think that you could at least get back to your original 6/7 blink pattern.
> 
> 
> Did you search for possible causes of the non-repeating three blink sequence?
> 
> 
> Try a search on Agoraquest's "Television Troubleshooting" forum also.



Ok, will do. I am definitely afraid of unintentionally shorting out something too. Leaving that left hole blank has me wondering too, and maybe this was "ground" or something that needs to be connected for the G2 circuit to work properly. The TV "acts" like it wants to come on.


----------



## jdre

Cajieboy:
*3 non-repeating blinks* is what my set did with a few pins not properly connected from the PC board to the IC socket. Traces were torn. Also check chips are in the socket fully and no pins missed the holes. After fixing that, I'm back to the 6 blinks, repeating.


Your CN9009 white wire you have it in right. If it's soldered in the white area within that oval mark CN9009 2 pins it's fine.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15712336
> 
> 
> Cajieboy:
> *3 non-repeating blinks* is what my set did with a few pins not properly connected from the PC board to the IC socket. Traces were torn. Also check chips are in the socket fully and no pins missed the holes. After fixing that, I'm back to the 6 blinks, repeating.
> 
> 
> Your CN9009 white wire you have it in right. If it's soldered in the white area within that oval mark CN9009 2 pins it's fine.



Thanks, that is very good news in a way, because now I know what area to concentrate on instead of being stopped dead in my tracks on this repair. How did you fix those traces that were torn?


PS: When I de-soldered the old IC's, they both came very easily with holes clear.


----------



## jdre

I fixed the traces with small wire, clipped off spare resistors. Also, did you make sure the ICs were positioned with the notch to the left toward the dots (when looking from rear of TV). Like in this image: Also, bending one pin over would shot it down. Easiest to trace circuits with ohmmeter, make sure all is connected.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15713943
> 
> 
> I fixed the traces with small wire, clipped off spare resistors. Also, did you make sure the ICs were positioned with the notch to the left toward the dots (when looking from rear of TV). Like in this image: Also, bending one pin over would shot it down. Easiest to trace circuits with ohmmeter, make sure all is connected.



Yes, the IC's are oriented in the correct position. That's the very first thing I checked out because I forgotten to double check one of the IC's. I had marked the corner w/whiteout to make it easy to see. Sure enough, they were OK in that department. I may just de-solder the whole mess and start again. I think something went wrong w/my first attempt, that's for sure. Not quite ready yet to call in a real Sony Tech!


I've been taking a short break from the DIY repair to think it all over, and also I've busy getting business affairs & errands completed before I take off to New Orleans on Thursday. I'll be away for 3-4 weeks conducting biz, visiting family and enjoying a bit of Mardi Gras. Tonight, I had movie night w/the wife viewing "Remembering Sarah Marshall" on my reference quality 18-yr. old Sony 27" XBR (never once had a problem) at 6' viewing distance. Good movie! Cocktails began at midnight w/Bob Dylan's album "Desire".







Cheers and thanks for your help.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/15731255
> 
> 
> ...... I think something went wrong w/my first attempt, that's for sure. Not quite ready yet to call in a real Sony Tech!...



Another possibility is that you've done everything perfectly but the problem is not related to the MCZ3001D ICs.


Also, does your 40XBR800 have a third MCZ3001D IC located on the A-Board? My KV-36XBR400's A-Board has this IC and a Sony repair tech once told me that it can also cause power up problems. He also said that third IC was often overlooked in repair attempts.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15732386
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that you've done everything perfectly but the problem is not related to the MCZ3001D ICs.
> 
> 
> Also, does your 40XBR800 have a third MCZ3001D IC located on the A-Board? My KV-36XBR400's A-Board has this IC and a Sony repair tech once told me that it can also cause power up problems. He also said that third IC was often overlooked in repair attempts.



I had forgotten about that 3rd IC on the A-Board. What bothers me is that now I the 3-blinking-light-then-off problem, rather than a 6-7 continous blinking light problem. That has me scratching my head and concluding it must be something I did regarding the two IC's I replaced. What do you think?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/15735053
> 
> 
> I had forgotten about that 3rd IC on the A-Board. What bothers me is that now I the 3-blinking-light-then-off problem, rather than a 6-7 continous blinking light problem. That has me scratching my head and concluding it must be something I did regarding the two IC's I replaced. What do you think?



Yes, your logic makes sense to me. You would think that you should at least be able to get back to where you were before.


----------



## jdre

40XBR800 hasn't got the A board MCZ3001D chip, it shares the same manual as my set. Have a nice vacation!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15738350
> 
> 
> 40XBR800 hasn't got the A board MCZ3001D chip, it shares the same manual as my set. Have a nice vacation!



Thanks for the input. I wondered if the 40XBR800 had the third IC.


Well that resolves that concern!










Bob


----------



## feghalic

I have had my set a little over 5 years, the TV started the 6-blinks in January just after the 5 year warranty expired in December. Did some searching and found this thread. Ordered the parts and went to RS for the Desoldering Iron. Practiced on a junk board with the desolder iron and started down eclipsedave's excelent instructions [Post #108], all except for doing the repair upside down (which I find remarkable). I tilted the TV on to it's face for the repair which worked out nicely. Attached is the surface I used for tilting the TV onto it's face without having to lift it. The underlying carpet allowed me to move/slide the TV around. Other tips I found useful.


1) Insert the IC into the socket before soldering the socket to the board.

2) The RS 45w Desoldering Iron runs really hot, I plugged it into my Weller wlc100 and was able to adjust the wattage.


I am happy to report this repair was successful all due to this wonderful forum and great instructions and tips. Thanks!!


----------



## jdre

Congratulations, gotta love the 32HS510







! I just got my "new" *34*HS510 started up today.


I discovered something that could happen to others here who cut the plastic frame on the bottom of the D board, you can easily cut the ground trace which keeps the new ICs from working and you will get the same old 6 blinks. Will post pictures of the board damage later, within a day.


----------



## FMTRVT

Not if your careful


----------



## lcaillo

I just don't get why anyone would butcher the chassis frame when the board can be removed so easily and turned.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/15793116
> 
> 
> I just don't get why anyone would butcher the chassis frame when the board can be removed so easily and turned.



I can say with experience that this is in fact very true, and this coming from a total noob DIY'er. When first looking at the board w/all those components, etc. it looks a little scary, but once I got into it, there were no problems removing the 8 screws, un-clipping the 6 connectors, etc. The D-Board comes out fairly easily and you are able to turn it on its side w/o snipping any flyback wires, etc.


So far, my fix has not worked and the TV is sitting in the living room w/the back off. I'm now getting the 3-blinks-then off. When I return home from Louisiana in a few weeks, I plan to give it another try, as I think it was my soldering that is not right. If that doesn't work, then I'm done and will search for a good CRT repair guy. I refuse to throw away this TV!


----------



## jdre

I didn't butcher my 34HS510, but the previous owner made a sincere, unsuccessful, repair effort based on the pictorial how-to on page 4 here in this forum. I agree cutting the frame can be done without damaging the board, but it's not too bad to slide the chassis back, release hinges, unscrew chassis. Sony really secured it!


Scratch is below C8080, easier to see than in reality!










Cleaned copper trace










Patched trace, works much better now!


----------



## lcaillo

IME, someone who cannot manage to get the board out correctly should not be using cutting tools anywhere near it. I know some techs that cut out parts like this, and I dissagree with the practice, but at least they know how not to damage the board.


----------



## cajieboy

Thanks Jdr, those are darn good pics. If you're able, could you please take some pics of the CN9009 connections from the Flyback to the C-Board? I'm definitely getting out my magnifying glass to check all traces next time I go for Round 2 on my 40XBR fix. Exactly how did you clean the copper trace?


----------



## jdre

I cleaned the trace with the tip of my multimeter, an X-acto knife would work, just scrape gently to remove the green insulated coating. Here's some shots of CN9009 with the thin white wire:


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/15739060
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. I wondered if the 40XBR800 had the third IC.
> 
> 
> Well that resolves that concern!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15738350
> 
> 
> 40XBR800 hasn't got the A board MCZ3001D chip, it shares the same manual as my set. Have a nice vacation!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/15735053
> 
> 
> I had forgotten about that 3rd IC on the A-Board. What bothers me is that now I the 3-blinking-light-then-off problem, rather than a 6-7 continous blinking light problem. That has me scratching my head and concluding it must be something I did regarding the two IC's I replaced. What do you think?



I checked the schematic and it does not show mcz3001d on the a-board.

I apologize, for I had read that somewhere that these TVs have a 3rd one on the a-board.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/15803007
> 
> 
> IME, someone who cannot manage to get the board out correctly should not be using cutting tools anywhere near it. I know some techs that cut out parts like this, and I disagree with the practice, but at least they know how not to damage the board.



Agree!!

Thanks a bunch to lcaillo and jdre for your input on here







!!!!


And to everyone, Thanks!!!

congratulations to all those successful repairs and good luck to those in the process of repairs. And to all for making this thread a success!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/15836716
> 
> 
> ....._I checked the schematic and it does not show mcz3001d on the a-board_.......
> 
> I apologize, for I had read that somewhere that these TVs have a 3rd one on the a-board.



Mark,


There's no need to apologize as some Sony models do, in fact, have the third MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board.


My KV-36XBR400 has one and I planned on replacing it if replacing the two D-Board ICs didn't fix the power up problem. Fortunately I didn't need to do that.


----------



## jdre

I enjoy posting here, glad to help!


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15838537
> 
> 
> I enjoy posting here, glad to help!



Me too, and this is a great thread. Thanks for posting those excellent pics on the N9009 connection. Great camera & lens. What kind is it? I noticed there was solder on that hole on the left. Right now, I only re-soldered the white wire in the right hole. I think I'll try to do something about that when I go for Round 2 on my fix.


----------



## jdre

It's a Kodak C743, not a high end camera, but it focuses very close! If it's connected to the right hole within the oval outline, it's all the same board trace, should be OK, wouldn't hurt to get it back as built, though.


----------



## jdre

Any luck yet?


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15898106
> 
> 
> Any luck yet?



Jdre, I assume you're referring to me. I just returned home tonight about 8:00pm after we drove for 2 days from Louisiana. Wahoooo Mardi Gras!!!...and I didn't stick around for the final weekend celebrations & Fat Tuesday. That's OK because I've been to that rodeo many times before. Getting a bit settled at home, and right now enjoying #4 Florida Sunshine Screwdriver. I plan to tackle Round #2 DIY fix in a day or two. I've learnd not to rush these things, and will post results afterwards...the good...the bad...and the ugly!


----------



## ceramicat

I had bought a few ICs(MCZ3001DB) to fix a SONY kv-32hs420

model a few months back. I had great sucess and the set is still working!


I have a friend who has a different model(SONY kv-32s66) but is doing a similar problem-

set has no picture with standby blinking but sound still works.


I am searching the bulletin boards for advice. I am also going to go look at the set to try and get some information from the board and the chips inside.


Is it the same power control chipset problem on this set? Is there anything else I should check?


I am in the homework stages right now. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Cathy


----------



## cajieboy

jdre & anyone else that can help. The white wire going from the Flyback to the C-Board is really too short. What is the absolute best way to splice another wire to this white wire that will be secure and not cause a short? Thanks.


----------



## adreman11

I would like to say, "thank-you" to all whom have contributed to this post. My 36XBR800 started giving me problems about three months ago. When I would turn the set off it would require several attempts to turn it back on. When this would happen I would get 6 blinking lights. This went on for a while then it would not turn on at all. Made the famous "whumpf" sound followed by a few clicks then 6 blinking lights. A few days later I pushed the on button and the picture came alive. I kept the TV on for a couple of months- then we had a power outage to our home. Could not get the TV back on. Found this post. Ordered the MCZ3001D chips, soldering iron, braid for desoldering. Took first chip out and installed new one. No luck. Still 6 blinks. Cut plastic bracket over 2nd chip. Replaced it. Still no luck. Went back to first chip and found two piss poor solders. Re-did those two and voila a beautiful picture. Thanks to all again. Amateur TV repairman....


----------



## jdre

*cajieboy:* To avoid splicing, can you get any slack at all, if you untangle the white wire from the other wires? I'd use solder and put shrink tubing over the splice, keep it away from other wires.

*adreman11:* Congratulations, and welcome to AVS forum! Those solder joints take practice.

*ceramicat:* That 32S66 is completely different inside, a good starting point will be the service manual, try www.servicemanuals.net , google for that set's problem, refer to chassis number as well.


----------



## pcp33

Well i have had no such luck. I have a 910. I was getting 2 blinks for over a year the set was still working fine. Last week 6 blinks and i was having trouble turning the set on. ordered the chips had a friend who is a tech solder the 2 ic's in and now I get absolutly nothing. Its seem the tv is getting no power. We did the repair with the D board in place. The only thing i disconnected was the video board. I doubled and triple checked everything and for the life of me cant figure it out. Looks like I am on my way to best buy. I dread going into there.


----------



## jdre

Look for a cut trace, if you had to cut the plastic frame. Also, *verify* each pin of each chip is *really connected* (use ohm meter) and the *notches are to the left*. Recheck soldering. Check fuse on AZ board near power cord. Refer to prior pages in this forum, pictures of my similar set boards. Schematic is here (960 is similar to 910 enough to check those IC circuits) : Sony XBR960 free schematic, save a copy after it opens up. Best Buy has some nice sets, but maybe you can save yours. Hope you succeed!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15976284
> 
> 
> Look for a cut trace, if you had to cut the plastic frame. Also, *verify* each pin of each chip is *really connected* (use ohm meter) and the *notches are to the left*. Recheck soldering. Check fuse on AZ board near power cord. Refer to prior pages in this forum, pictures of my similar set boards. Schematic is here (960 is similar to 910 enough to check those IC circuits) : Sony XBR960 free schematic, save a copy after it opens up. Best Buy has some nice sets, but maybe you can save yours. Hope you succeed!



That's all great advice.


Also, if you disconnected any connectors during the repair, disconnect and reconnect all of those. Check for connectors that you might have missed. (That was the problem on a recent report over on Agoraquest.)


If you used sockets and you have spare ICs, try swapping out ICs.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## lilnaz

I would like to extend a big thank you to all who posted in this thread. I just finished fixing my Sony kv34hs510. I bought the MCZ3001DB and replaces both ICs.

I used a 30 watt iron instead of my 15 for the desoldering. I used desoldering wick and just placed the wick on top of the contact and held the iron on that moving it around a tiny bit. If it looks like there is still a little solder on the IC leg dont worry about being perfect. With your fingernail move the IC leg a little and it should come off. After soldering in the new IC I took a razorblade and went in between the contacts to make sure none were shorted. I do have a little background soldering small ic's but anyone can do this with patience. I used needle nose pliers to get the old IC out and used my hand to put the new ones in. Started right up and now am sitting in front of my TV with a big smile on my face, its been over a month with no (hd)TV. THANKS, my TV has never looked better


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lilnaz* /forum/post/15990102
> 
> 
> I would like to extend a big thank you to all who posted in this thread. I just finished fixing my Sony kv34hs510. I bought the MCZ3001DB and replaces both ICs.
> 
> I used a 30 watt iron instead of my 15 for the desoldering. I used desoldering wick and just placed the wick on top of the contact and held the iron on that moving it around a tiny bit. If it looks like there is still a little solder on the IC leg dont worry about being perfect. With your fingernail move the IC leg a little and it should come off. After soldering in the new IC I took a razorblade and went in between the contacts to make sure none were shorted. I do have a little background soldering small ic's but anyone can do this with patience. I used needle nose pliers to get the old IC out and used my hand to put the new ones in. Started right up and now am sitting in front of my TV with a big smile on my face, its been over a month with no (hd)TV. THANKS, my TV has never looked better



Congratulations on your successful repair!


And thanks for sharing the details of your repair.


How did you access the ICs? Did you rotate the D-Board up into the service position?


----------



## mo.bogomips

My KV40XBR800 has the dreaded 6 blinks and, after being motivated by all the great posts I have read, I am going to take my D board to a shop to have the ICs replaced. While removing the D board I was gearing up to pull the white G2 wire from the FBT when it suddenly popped off the CX board at the other end!


I found the connector and it looks like I have broken off a thin U shaped connector that is soldered on to the CX board. From other posts it looks like you can remove the red tip on the G2 wire and solder the wire right onto the board (after desoldering the old connector). As you face the back of the CX board there are two holes inside an area marked with the same shape as the red connector. Which one do you solder to, left or right?


----------



## jdre

Either one, it's 1 wire 2 pins, on the same trace, check with your ohm meter. Good luck with your repair!


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15993572
> 
> 
> Either one, it's 1 wire 2 pins, on the same trace, check with your ohm meter. Good luck with your repair!



Geez, on My KV-40XBR800, this looks like exactly what happened to me. theres been no hurry on my end, and tonight I'm having a few screwdrivers to my favorite music w/Grado phones. I went down to to the local Home Depot and bought some 22AWG for a splicing job, but the wire "looks" smaller. I'm told it's the insulation that is the difference. As I've got the white flyback wire securely soldered to its original contact then this makes me skeptical that this is the root of of my 3 red blinking problem. I may have bought all this wire spicing stuff for nill. I've been mulling it over, and am not fully decided.


----------



## lilnaz

Hello Robert, Thanks again for the helpful posts bud. I did just swing the board up so I could see the underbelly. I disconnected all the plugs on d board, the black piano wire looking connections(4) were a pain, also unscrewed/disconnected the input panel for easier access(maybe not necessary). There was enough room to solder by just propping it up over itself.


----------



## mo.bogomips

Thanks jdre! My parts are on the way. I hope I will be reporting another success story.


----------



## discorob3

My mom has a KV-30HS420 and this morning it got the 7 blinks of death!

We called Sony and they said it was "the power supply" so did the local authorized Sony guy here in Baton Rouge, LA.


The Sony repairmen said it would be $250 to $300 to fix it and my mom

decided to give up and get a new one...


Personally, I think it is kind of crazy since the picture quality is excellent on the TV. A new LCD of the same size is gonna be at least $450 to $500(from what I saw at Best Buy here, my mom is not the type to get a better deal off of internet).


That said, I am gonna keep the old dead box and attempt to fix it myself by ordering 2 MCZ3001DB ic's for $11.98 from Tri-State Module and attempting to desolder the old ones and solder them on the "D-Board"....


Keep in mind, I am 100 percent neophyte on this....

I will let yall know what happens (assuming I dont get killed by the stored energy in the capacitors)!


Any advice please post it...

Thank You sirs....



p.s. The TV is right around 4 years old tops, what is the estimated lifespan of the crt? Up until this morning it looked excellent!


----------



## jdre

Discorob3, I'd read Page 4 of this long topic, also page 13,14,15,16, to get familiar, if you haven't already. I would avoid cutting the support if possible. You can get the service manual here KV30HS420 . If the TV sits a few days, the capacitors will drain (mine did). Make sure you have a VOM (voltmeter) and solder braid, 15-30 watt solder iron with smaller tip, .050" or .031" 60/40 electronic solder. RadioShack has that equipment. Use 18 pin DIP sockets available at RadioShack. If you are careful, it should power right on. Often, a minor mistake keeps it from working. Good luck, hope to hear how well it's working soon!


PS: Make sure Mom gets a good set to pass down (Plasma?)


mogobomips: Hope so, just work carefully, you should succeed.


----------



## jdre

cajieboy: You will have to look at those ICs again, soldering underneath. Hope it works! Grados are nice headphones..


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, guys







. I have read many posts from the topic and decided to ask someone for help. So, I have Sony KV - 30HS510 with DA-4 chassis, it worked great before but one day just stopped turning on every time when I switched it on... this was strange... I plugged the cable off, waited a minute and after that it started just normal. This problem started to appear more and more often. So I decided to do something, after an inspection I found the problem - +5 volt stabilizer. OK I fixed that but after a month the poor thing started with a new strange behavior. Now, when I turn on the television the picture starts from white-yellow with white declined stripes and fast becomes white to super-white and after a second turns off - I suppose this is a protection. So if anyone can guide me .. or suggest something... Is it possible the problem to be IC8002 or IC6501 (MCZ3001D).......I will appreciate that


----------



## jdre

Not MCZ3001D this time. I'd begin troubleshooting at the CRT board. It's acting like you have no voltage bias on the CRT cathodes, which leaves them full on, till the TV shuts off in protection. You will need KV32HS500 schematic . Could be loss of power to video output ICs, short in an IC, G2 voltage too high (comes from flyback transformer).


----------



## raduilpig

Thank you, jdre!







Well, this suggestion will help, I guess. I'm not a professional in this field and I will be happy with more suggestions and more details if someone can provide.. thank you one more time for the great forum and for your help..


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16023954
> 
> 
> cajieboy: You will have to look at those ICs again, soldering underneath. Hope it works! Grados are nice headphones..



Thanks, I'll do just that and see if it works. I'm thinking my wire splice idea was all wet. I guess I was looking for an excuse not to fool around w/that D-Board again.


My Grados are the SR325's, and I've got 2 matching pair thinking my wife might like to join me in music appreciation. She has never used the other pair. I recently replaced the ear pads from Grado and now they're good as new.


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, everyone! jdre, when I read your post and tried to orient myself in the scheme and I noticed the following thing ( I've attached photos to orient the others who are not so familiar with the TV as I am). Once again the problem is: when I turn on the television the picture starts from white-yellow with white declined stripes and fast becomes white to super-white and after a second turns off. So, I've noticed when I disconnect the cable with the three small cables which connects the CX board with D board (200V, GND, H1) the TV starts to work normally but without a picture, of course, the display is black. I suppose that it will guide most of you. Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope, I have only an ohmmeter. It will be pity to lose this nice and otherwise great working TV with great sound. Thank you all!


----------



## jdre

You have no removed the power to the CX board and the CRT. What happens if you reconnect the plug and the grounds To CX board but leave the board *off* the CRT? Make sure the CX board is on an insulated surface (wood or cardboard). If the TV stays on, you can check for voltage problems at the CRT socket (back side of board.) (An ohm meter and schematic is all you need most of the time anyhow, as long as it can read 750 vdc.)


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, jdre, thank you very much for the directions! I began working on your suggestion right away and here is the first result: the TV continues to work when I remove the CX board from the CRT...Now, I am going to check the voltages....Thank you! Soon I will post the results.


----------



## raduilpig

So, jdre hi again







. I checked the voltages and found that the 12v are there but the 200v are missing







, now I'm not sure that the measures are correct( I checked several times and the results are still the same: 12v - yes, but 200v - missing.) What should be the next step ? Thanks again man











I'm here for your reply.


----------



## raduilpig

Hello, I found that, one resistor R6595(board D) - used as a fuse( 0.47 ohm) near to T6502 was open(burnt)... and after replacement I got the missing voltage (200v). But when I connected the cables back( I mean restore the power(200v) to CX board) I smelled strange smell







, unfortunately when I measured the resistance between two pins on connector CN5003 on CX board I found that the resistance is 9-10 Omh!... I think that is almost short circuit... and the smell comes from CX board too. So now I'm going to try to find the reason for the short circuit and the smell..








. If you can help, please


----------



## raduilpig

Hi folks, it's me again







. Can anyone tell me what is the normal resistance between pins "200v" and "E" on CX board ? and am I right that these 200v are DC not AC







, sorry for lame questions but I'm not a professional in this.. Thank you all!


----------



## jdre

DC, and I can check my board resistance 200V to E after I get off my Evening shift Monday.


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, all! jdre - I'll wait for the results from your measures. By the way, I found the reason







and the reason is all ICs( IC9001,IC9002,IC9003 - TDA6120Q S1) are burnt. So, now I'm going to buy new ICs . But I wonder what can be the reason for the damages... jdre - thank you in advance, man!


----------



## jdre

You're welcome! I measured in both polarities from 1 to E: (+) on 1 (-) to E is 1.7-2*Meg*ohms, (-) on 1 (+) on E is 300-370*K*ohms. If all 3 are burned, there's your short, also check the other parts on the board, like the Buffer transistors and D9010,C9033,D9009. *12 Volts* also feeds into the ICs. I found some tips on Repairworld that discuss changing all 3 Video ICs. I don't know why either, although I repaired a TV that had 2 out of 3 bad once.


----------



## raduilpig

Hello, jdre, now I'm trying to find a local place to buy the ICs , if not I'll go to internet. So, thank you very much for your replies and it seems that the other components are ok.... bye


----------



## raduilpig

Oh, by the way, if someone know from were I can order 3 pieces TDA6120Q/S1, please let me know, thanks!


----------



## jdre

Right here, min order 15 dollars, need to set up account (easy) BDent TDA6120Q/N2/S1 Figures, Philips parts..


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, jdre, what about this source : http://www.electronix.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/15111 . I wonder because may be it will be impossible to find a local store and this site has good prices ? or go to yours ?


----------



## dmaxben

hi everyone- I just got an XBR960 off of craigs list for 50 dollars. 6 blink problem etc..


replaced the two IC's and now have a 3 blink problem and then it shuts off arrghh.


What else could it be? I checked and re-checked the soldering, although on one of the pins, the solder doesnt really "wick" into the hole and "fan" out into the circuit board. It just blobs/bubbles on the pin of the IC socket. Could I have burned the PCB too much and messed up the trace?


Solution..new DZ-board???










thanks

ben


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmaxben* /forum/post/16070989
> 
> 
> hi everyone- I just got an XBR960 off of craigs list for 50 dollars. 6 blink problem etc..
> 
> 
> replaced the two IC's and now have a 3 blink problem and then it shuts off arrghh.
> 
> 
> What else could it be? I checked and re-checked the soldering, although on one of the pins, the solder doesnt really "wick" into the hole and "fan" out into the circuit board. It just blobs/bubbles on the pin of the IC socket. Could I have burned the PCB too much and messed up the trace?
> 
> 
> Solution..new DZ-board???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> ben



Ben,


I know that I've read that, on at least some Sony models, not every MCZ3001D pin is used. So what you're seeing might just be related to that.


----------



## dmaxben

Robert when I first replaced the IC's, I still got the same 6/7 blink problem, so I tried resoldering them, no luck. Then for whatever reason I tried turning it on with the IC's unplugged, and it turned on for a second then shut off.


I plugged the IC's back in and now it just does 3 blinks. However they are "long" blinks. They arent the short "diagnostic code" blinks. ie, when all the sony wega's turn on normally, you press the power button, hear the degausing coils, then the standby light blinks 3 times (1/2 second for each blink or so), then the picture appears. When the IC's go bad, it does the 3 normal blinks, then the 6/7 fast diagnostic blinks.


After I tried turning it on with the IC's out, and then put the IC's back in, now it only does the 3 "normal" blinks, then nothing.


Probably overloaded something when I turned it on with the IC's disconnected. Perfect! Theres another working XBR960 on CL around here for 225. I could probably fix the [broken] one with a replacment DZ board, but the DZ boards are around 300 dollars or so.....and it would be a bummer if I bought that new DZ board and there was still something else wrong with it.


So I think for now Ill just buy that other working XBR960, and fiddle around with the broken XBR960 when I have more time...so at the very worst, ill be into it 275 dollars, have a working XBR960, and another XBR960 for parts!










Ben


----------



## RobertF

Ben,


Did you undo _any_ connectors during the repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect all of them. And check for any connectors that you might have left loose. I read one repair report similar to yours and the three blink problem was due to single connector that wasn't hooked up during the repair.


Good luck!


----------



## jdre

Dmaxben: I don't think you overloaded anything. See Page 15 My Sony 34HS510 had 3 blinks (power on, degauss hum, click 3 longer blinks one time, then off.) It was: solder on the 2 chip sockets *And* a cut trace. I'd go through the circuit with ohm meter referring to the schematic. You can see in my picture on Page 15 how I had to fix the connections, and there are a couple pins not used. Also, make sure the ICs are oriented with the notch on the left as indicated on the board, and pressed into the sockets fully. Those black bridge connectors and any other connectors are worth checking as well.


----------



## jdre

Raduilpig: I like BDent, quick delivery.


----------



## dmaxben

I took the D board completely out, although I think I might have ripped that blue wire going into the flyback transformer. Is there high voltage on the blue wire? Or can I stick it back in with some epoxy or something and call it good?


Pulled the anode cap off and was able to get the red wire going to the neck of the CRT out of the FBT without breaking it. I think I discharged teh CRT properly?? (like they said in the service manual) There wasnt any spark or noise or anything, im not sure if there was supposed to be some dramatic lightning shower or anything.


now that I have the D-board out I can put it on the bench and go over it with a multimeter. Do these have multiple layer circuit boards? I think I might have overheated one of the traces and broken it...if its only a single layer PCB I assume ill be able to easilly "bridge" the part where I burned the traces... If its anything like a computer motherboard forget it.


thanks

Ben


----------



## mike4066

Hi, new member first post..


I have a Sony KD36FS130 that won't power on.


I bought it pretty cheap from a guy who was moving yesterday, now he's gone.


It worked at his house and when I brought it home. I had it hooked up and was really happy with it. Sometime today it appears to have stopped working. Needless to say it appears that I got what I paid for.


Symptoms:

Turn it on and hear the click, but no display, green power light is on, no other lights or blinking, and i don't here the BWOMP degauss sound.


Troubleshooting steps:

unplugged every component from the unit: no change

Unplugged power for 15-30 minutes and plugged back in: no change.

turned it on/off via the front panel a few times: no change.

I plan to leave it unplugged overnight this evening.


Power:

I can turn the power on via remote or front display.

I can only turn it off via the front panel, remote doesn't turn it off.


Lights:

Green power light comes on, nothing else, no blinking lights.


Sounds:

I hear it click when it powers on, but not the BWOMP degauss sound.


The thing was working fine last night / this morning.

Did I have a 250lbs paperweight?


----------



## jdre

dmaxben, it is a 1 layer board, may have some extra material in the holes. If you cut the plastic earlier, check there, too. Was the blue wire the thin one to the CRT?


----------



## dmaxben




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16073909
> 
> 
> dmaxben, it is a 1 layer board, may have some extra material in the holes. If you cut the plastic earlier, check there, too. Was the blue wire the thin one to the CRT?



yes, theres the three wires coming out of the flyback transformer. Two red, one going to the anode cap, and the other going to the base/neck of the CRT. Then theres a third wire, mine is blue but in looking at some other pictures of other TV's its white?? My XBR960 was made in last 2004; maybe different revisions of the tv's had different color wires...some white...some blue?


----------



## jdre

Mike: You will need a schematic, it's different set inside (simpler). I found a blurry schematic of the power supply, it has one of the *MCZ3001D* ic chips in it. The degauss is powered from power created by MCZ3001D...


----------



## jdre

dmaxben, that is the G2 wire, not hard to fix later. Goes to a red connector on the CRT board CN9002.


----------



## mike4066




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16074062
> 
> 
> Mike: You will need a schematic, it's different set inside (simpler). I found a blurry schematic of the power supply, it has one of the *MCZ3001D* ic chips in it. The degauss is powered from power created by MCZ3001D...



And because every post in this thread relates to one of these chips going bad..... I should consider replacing the MCZ3001D inside the power supply?


Where can I find the schematic for this tv? I got the tv pretty cheap so i don't mind fixing it.


----------



## Musicnutt

I haven't been paying attention to this 'thread' recently. But if there's one thing I've learned at AVSFORUM and I'm talking nearly a decade watching here? There's alot of very intelligent people here who, IF it can be 'fixed on the cheap' without calling in a Pro to fix it for you? This is the first place you want to be. My Sony 34XBR800 didn't get 'fixed' in the end. But that wasn't any fault of the people here. It was simply beyond the 'scope' of my abilities and the 'time' constraints I had to deal with as my own 'limitations'.


I wish I still had my 34XBR800 and had had the time to 'go further' with it. But time constraints limited that as an option 'for me'. My replacement Panasonic Plasma TH-42PZ85U still falls 'far' short of my old Sony. But I'm the only one at fault for that rash decision due to my own circumstances and budget constraints.


Bottom line from my viewpoint? If you've got a 'Sony Direct View' (picture TUBE) versus Plasma or LCD? Fix it if you can cause the older Direct Views blow anything else outta the solar system by a light year. My neighbor with a 'just over' 2 year old Sony LCD had it die on him 'just after' its warranty ran out at 2 years and less than 1 month. Sony is no better than any other Brand now, today. (see below, PS's seem to the 'weak link' in ALL sets now.)


Don't ask me where here, but 'someone' else here at AVS stated that 'all' manufacturers 'powers supplies' are 'suspect' for premature failures and 'may not' be worth fixing (LCD'S and Plasmas, unless they're 'big buck' older Pioneers, $4k plus. Someone more knowledgeable than me would have to tell you if 'your model' is worth the effort or not. All I know is this is the place to be to find the answer to 'that' question. Every 'other' site pales in comparison to this one.


If you've got the 'time' and can find a 'cheap fix' here? GO FOR IT! Even if it doesn't fix it? This is the place that won't waste your time OR big bucks trying to have 'at least' a 50/50 chance (or more) at success. I simply 'ran outta time' to go any further. My only regrets were my own time constraints and budget that didn't allow me to buy a $4-5k Panny Plasma that 'might' have matched my old Sony 34" (or pay a Pro to fix my Sony) for drop dead take your breath away 1080i that would still blow away 1080P today on my newer Panny.


Maybe I just still need my newer 42" Panny 'calibrated,' but I'm still 'sadly,' and by a wide margin, disappointed by it compared to my direct view Sony which no one makes direct views anymore. At nearly 200lbs for my old Sony? I can see those trade offs as an obstacle causing their demise. But my PQ has certainly suffered dramatically as the result.


Nutt


----------



## HJSimpson

Well I got the 6/7 blink problem 36hs510, would not turn on but still heard the degauss sound at startup. So I did what any one might do and went out and got a new LCD set.


Well here is the rub, I plugged the old set in 2 days later on a whim and it started right up, and has done so for days now...lol


Could this be a strange flaw or odd occurrence? I'll tell you why, When it wouldn't start I had the set on for over 24 hours, turned it off anf then someone else tried to turn it on an hour later. So could this be the set protecting itself from overheating?? I know I have heard about Sony sets not wanting to turn on after long hours of use.. plus it was loaded with dust contributing maybe to overheating.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HJSimpson* /forum/post/16075501
> 
> 
> Well I got the 6/7 blink problem 36hs510, would not turn on but still heard the degauss sound at startup. So I did what any one might do and went out and got a new LCD set.
> 
> 
> Well here is the rub, I plugged the old set in 2 days later on a whim and it started right up, and has done so for days now...lol
> 
> 
> Could this be a strange flaw or odd occurrence? I'll tell you why, When it wouldn't start I had the set on for over 24 hours, turned it off anf then someone else tried to turn it on an hour later. So could this be the set protecting itself from overheating?? I know I have heard about Sony sets not wanting to turn on after long hours of use.. plus it was loaded with dust contributing maybe to overheating.



This sounds like the classic problem discussed in this thread. Your set's condition/symptoms will likely degrade to never turning on. The suspect chips discussed here will very likely resolve the problem. The issue may become, having the expertise/confidence to swap the chips on the cheap versus having a $shop repair it for you. My opinion is the set is well worth repairing, especially if it doesn't cost much to achieve.


----------



## umnavarch

Just wanted to say thanks a bunch to the long time guys from this thread for giving me the confidence to tackle this repair. I have a KV32HS500 that was intermittently getting the evil 7 red blinks. I have never soldered before, but because of this thread, I decided to give it a try. Thanks to Mark Goetz, RobertF and a special thanks to Eclipsedave (post 108-110) for posting the detailed procedure and pictures. After reading the whole thread I chose to move the D board into the service position rather than cut the plastic chassis. Replaced both 8002 and 6501 (no idea which was bad). In and out in 2 hours. Success! My wife couldn't believe I didn't kill myself and that it didn't take 3 weeks. My key - learning how to solder on line and then practicing 3 nights. I put in sockets because, even though it was a grand adventure and I did well at it, I don't wish to solder again. Great forum you have here - keep up the good work!


----------



## jdre




> Quote:
> And because every post in this thread relates to one of these chips going bad..... I should consider replacing the MCZ3001D inside the power supply?
> 
> 
> Where can I find the schematic for this tv? I got the tv pretty cheap so i don't mind fixing it.


*mike4066*: Yes, that's a good start, you should check other components as well. If it comes back on after "resting" could be it. For your Sony KD36FS130:Try servicemanuals.net, $16 download , alternative is ManualsParadise, more$ 


Best source of MCZ3001DB is Bdent.com, I found.


----------



## jdre

*umnavarch*: Congratulations!









*Musicnutt*: What don't you like about your Panasonic TH-42PZ85U?







That set should be great, once adjusted right of course. Did you inquire at the Plasma forum?


> Quote:
> Don't ask me where here, but 'someone' else here at AVS stated that 'all' manufacturers 'powers supplies' are 'suspect' for premature failures and 'may not' be worth fixing



I have a couple of nearly new LCD PC monitors that have power issues I'm going to try to fix. Guess I will watch for an LCD TV project to come along, after I finish the Sony 34HS510 (like your old XBR).


----------



## jdre

*hjsimpson*: Your set is acting like my 32HS510, I purchased it for almost nothing because it wasn't supposed to work. It did work when I picked it up, and took 2 months to act up with the 6 blinks the previous owner encountered. I then installed the MCZ3001DBs and sockets, once the TV got in more of a "habit" of not working.


----------



## doggie750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16088515
> 
> *hjsimpson*: Your set is acting like my 32HS510, I purchased it for almost nothing because it wasn't supposed to work. It did work when I picked it up, and took 2 months to act up with the 6 blinks the previous owner encountered. I then installed the MCZ3001DBs and sockets, once the TV got in more of a "habit" of not working.



join the agoraquest.com


it helped me big time


----------



## mo.bogomips

A big thank you to all on this thread. My repair was a success! I had sockets installed so if it happens again I'm ready. Thanks again!


----------



## jdre

*mo.bogomips*









*doggie750* Yes, great tip. Agoraquest is helpful for "different" Sony problems.


----------



## mike4066




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16088366
> 
> *mike4066*: Yes, that's a good start, you should check other components as well. If it comes back on after "resting" could be it. For your Sony KD36FS130:Try
> 
> 
> est source of MCZ3001DB is removed.., I found.




Thanks for the address..


Well i didn't come on after sitting unplugged overnight and I started tearing it apart but can't find the mcz3001db chip anywhere in the power supply. There was only one on the board which I replaced but it didn't make any difference. It still doest the same thing where it doesn't turn on.


----------



## mike4066

well I ordered the service manual, I may have just spent $16 on something I can't read


----------



## jdre

So, you replaced the MCZ3001db, no results? Schematic reading takes practice, it's like a map.


----------



## mike4066




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16096563
> 
> 
> So, you replaced the MCZ3001db, no results? Schematic reading takes practice, it's like a map.



Yes, I replaced the MCZ3001DB on the board with no change in results.


But i did enjoy swapping out the piece







I'm just trying to figure out whats next to check, readign it back the next piece from power to the degauss is the relay switch so I guess I'll pull that and test it, just work my way back.


----------



## jdre

If you are sure the new IC is installed correctly and connected OK, see if the relay gets power to its coil, if not, it's not the relay. Check the Standby power supply. Have fun!


----------



## mike4066

I just called the TV repair shop near my house and it will cost $40 to have them come to my house and take a look at it. If i can get it there they will take a look at it for $10. For that price I think its worth just having a professional take a look.


Crap that means I have to carry it into the van again.


----------



## jdre

Yes, it's good you can find a TV shop. It's not an old set, might be worth some expenditure to get it going again. Once you find out what they fixed, you could find the part(s) on the schematic.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Musicnutt* /forum/post/16075388
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I just still need my newer 42" Panny 'calibrated,' but I'm still 'sadly,' and by a wide margin, disappointed by it compared to my direct view Sony which no one makes direct views anymore. At nearly 200lbs for my old Sony? I can see those trade offs as an obstacle causing their demise. But my PQ has certainly suffered dramatically as the result.
> 
> 
> Nutt



Note on that: When I had my Sony calibrated, I had asked him "Being that CRTs are a thing of the past! Won't that in a sense put you out of business?" He reply (not exact quote) "No! Because, Plasmas and LCDs still need calibrating. Not the same as a CRT, but greyscale (something else, but don't remember now) needs it still." He even mentioned that he had to buy new equipment and take some kind of class for certification on the newer TVs.

So, basically I am saying.... YES! you may still need to get it calibrated.





BUT.....

I wanted to get back on here to let everyone know that my TV started the "dreaded blinks" again







.....

But, keep in mind that back when it first happened to me, I only replaced the 1 IC. Just to see if the other would go bad in time or not, well it did!!

I had installed the socket then, just incase it did. So it was an easy replacement and of course fixed it.


Thanks again to AVS and everyone on here for their share in helping me and everyone else needing some kind of info. on this subject. This has been more of a success then I origanally thought it would be.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doggie750* /forum/post/16089535
> 
> 
> join the agoraquest.com
> 
> 
> it helped me big time





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16090961
> 
> *mo.bogomips*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *doggie750* Yes, great tip. Agoraquest is helpful for "different" Sony problems.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike4066* /forum/post/16094737
> 
> 
> Thanks for the address..




Not to keep anyone from checking out Agoraquest.....

I am just curious of what is said there and not here???

Could you guys please explain how their info was more helpful?

As I would like to have as much info here on this problem. And since we have covered the MCZ3001D chips pretty good and noticed that it may not always be the solution. I would like to hear how others have fixed it by other means. I think it would be very helpful to anyone that happens to read this thread and not have to go to that and maybe come back here (basically trying have as much info in one spot to ease the time of researching and searching).

By no means do I think no one should visit agoraquest for help and please feel free to do so if you don't get the answer here










Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/16105968
> 
> 
> Not to keep anyone from checking out Agoraquest.....
> 
> I am just curious of what is said there and not here???
> 
> Could you guys please explain how their info was more helpful?
> 
> As I would like to have as much info here on this problem. And since we have covered the MCZ3001D chips pretty good and noticed that it may not always be the solution. I would like to hear how others have fixed it by other means. I think it would be very helpful to anyone that happens to read this thread and not have to go to that and maybe come back here (basically trying have as much info in one spot to ease the time of researching and searching).
> 
> By no means do I think no one should visit agoraquest for help and please feel free to do so if you don't get the answer here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Mark,


As far as the MCZ3001D IC replacements go, I think that topic is covered _very_ well here. In fact this thread is really a "on stop shop" for that.










But the Agoraquest TV Troubleshooting Forum covers that topic as well as many other possible failure modes. So I think it's worth checking out both forums before attempting a repair.


That's where I first learned of the MCZ3001D failures even though I had been a member of AVS for a much longer period.


One thing that has changed on Agoraquest is that you can't contact other members directly until you have at least 100 posts or you sign up as a $12 a year Premium Member. That wasn't the case when I joined the Agoraquest years ago and I think that policy actually discourages first time users from participating in the forums.


----------



## number25

Hello.


I am very glad I found this site and I hoping someone on this forum can help me. I am trying to repair my parents TV, a Sony KV32HS500.


The original problem was the common 7 Blinks Error Code with the set not always turning on/going into standby mode. When the set did power up properly, the set had good video & audio.


I tried the frequently successful remedy of replacing IC6501 & IC8002 on the D-board. I wish this is where I stopped. Instead, on the suggestion of Tri-State Module, my friend & I swapped out C6503 & C6590. My friend put C6503 in backwards. We powered up the set with the D-board re-connected with the cap backwards. The set would initially power up & then power down, with the smell of failure. Blew the fuse on the A-board. Realized something was wrong immediately and removed D-board, put cap in correctly, & replaced fuse. Re-connected everything & powered up the set again. Now the set had good audio but limited picture width (full vertical but horizontal is squeezed in on the sides - looks like an hour glass). It had already been a long day so we decided to take a break & regroup.


I figured there was a good possibly that we had blown something in the horizontal and decided to just replace the whole D-board from Sony. While waiting for the board to arrive, found online & downloaded the service manual. Once the new board arrived it was installed in the set. Went to power up the set and we are still seeing the exact same horizontal width problem in the video (audio still good).


So, I am feeling guilty that I might have killed my parent's TV set (with my friend's help). But I look at the schematic of the D-board, specifically the area of C6503 and wonder what I could have damaged that would have to do with the horizontal width problem? Or, the backward cap has nothing to do with the set's current woes. There may have been another component on another board (A, M, or B most likely) that was about to fail due to the stress of operating under the original problem?


I did some checking of voltages on both the A & D boards. The 3.3, 5, and 9 volt buses are present on the A board. The 135v bus is present on the D board. I have not checked the 12v bus on the D board yet. I doubled checked all board connections & connector cables & they look good. The flyback is part of the D board so it got replaced with the new D board.


My friend thinks the set may have a bad yoke. I think I have a leaky or bad component(s) on a board other than the D board. I plan on going over the board schematics now that I have the service manual, but I could really use some advice. I have already invested over $200 and a lot of hours into repairing this set. My parents love this TV and I would hate to disappoint them by not fixing the set. I would greatly appreciate any help that can be given.


Best regards,


Cheryl


----------



## jdre

I hate burning capacitor smell! I came into work today and that had just happened to someone..Is the picture ) ( bowed in on the sides, or just too narrow right now?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *number25* /forum/post/16116114
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> I am very glad I found this site and I hoping someone on this forum can help me. I am trying to repair my parents TV, a Sony KV32HS500.
> 
> 
> ......................................
> 
> 
> My parents love this TV and I would hate to disappoint them by not fixing the set. I would greatly appreciate any help that can be given.
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> 
> Cheryl



Cheryl,


I'm sorry to read of the problems with your repair. I've seen other reports where Tri-State has recommended the replacement of other parts in addition to the MCZ3001D ICs. That has always struck me as a bit odd since I've read of so many successful repairs that _just_ involved replacing the ICs. The old phrase "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind.


It might be that they simply want to maximize their customer's odds of replacing the right part. But there's the added risk of something else going wrong when additional parts are swapped out.


I did almost send my D-Board off to Tri-State but I recall that they wanted me to send in several other boards in order to be sure they could find the problem.


In your case that's all water under the bridge but maybe your report will help others avoid that frequently unnecessary step.


I'm not sure what might be causing the bowed picture but perhaps one of the other forum members might have a suggestion.


You might also want to post your experience over in Agoraquest's Television Troubleshooting forum. And be sure to run search of that forum with your TV's model number. Someone else may have posted a fix.


Finally, I know that you _really_ want to fix the TV but, at some point, it's just better to move on. Keep in mind that you can probably buy a used but perfectly functioning model of the same TV for well under $300. The resale market for the Sony CRTs has really collapsed over the last few years. (I recently bought a used but perfect Sony KV-36XBR800 with the matching Sony stand for $180.)


Best of luck!


Bob


----------



## jdre

Sometimes, solving the problem is inherently satisfying, even if it cost a bit, as long as you get more use from it.


----------



## cajieboy

Cheryl, how much did Sony charge you for the new "D-Board"? Thanks.


----------



## holonalu

D Board from Sony, part #A-1346-948-A, was $275.97, with shipping, to Hawaii. There is, however, a guy on Ebay, with the same board, new, I guess, for around 600 bucks!!! I'm gonna jump all over that one,,,,,,,,,,,, Anyways, my KV40XBR700 is back to it's old kukae again, I'm doing the repair myself this time, just need suggestions as to what would be a good stationary magnification device. I'll take my time this go around,,,


Aloha from Maui


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16117072
> 
> 
> Sometimes, solving the problem is inherently satisfying, even if it cost a bit, as long as you get more use from it.



I totally agree with that. It was a real thrill when I was able to repair my 36XBR400.


And it's nice to keep these spectacular displays out of landfills when a $6 IC might be all that's needed.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/16118145
> 
> 
> D Board from Sony, part #A-1346-948-A, was $275.97, with shipping, to Hawaii. There is, however, a guy on Ebay, with the same board, new, I guess, for around 600 bucks!!! I'm gonna jump all over that one,,,,,,,,,,,, Anyways, my KV40XBR700 is back to it's old kukae again, I'm doing the repair myself this time, just need suggestions as to what would be a good stationary magnification device. I'll take my time this go around,,,
> 
> 
> Aloha from Maui



Something is not right about that Sony part #. When googled, it came up for several TV's including the KV-36XBR450, but not the KV-40XBR800. The 40XBR part # I found is "A-1300-319-A" ($225.95). Can't say what the difference is but I think you should check it out before ordering a D Board.


----------



## jdre

*Cajieboy:* Sounds like your set is still unwell?

*Raduilpig:* Did your ICs arrive?


----------



## holonalu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/16122757
> 
> 
> Something is not right about that Sony part #. When googled, it came up for several TV's including the KV-36XBR450, but not the KV-40XBR800. The 40XBR part # I found is "A-1300-319-A" ($225.95). Can't say what the difference is but I think you should check it out before ordering a D Board.



Once again, it makes me wonder, did Sony even send the right board?? Number on the old board, which I still have, is A-1346-948-A, number on the new board is the same. However, the E-mail that I just got from Tri State says the D board that I require is #A-1348-122-A, so, maybe they have it wrong? Anyways, a rebuilt D is 149.95, and the A board, which also has the dreaded MCZ on it, is 109.95, repaired and board tested. With shipping to and from Maui, you'ld probably have to add at least another $100.00, so, I'm just going to get a good stationary magnifying system, take my time, practice my de-soldering for a while, and purchase some de-soldering braid from Tri State as well, seeing as that crap from RS wasn't worth a s##t. And I agree, would be hard to give this set away, let alone haul it's monster carcass out of here, the battle, if I win, (hopefully I will!), is more than worth it, not financially perhaps, kind of like telling the likes of Sony, Panasonic, JVC etc, to f##k off, I'll fix it myself...........Ordering stuff tomorrow


Aloha from Maui


Oh yeh, any suggestions for a good magnification source?? Think the magnifier on my Swiss Army knife wasn't quite up to the task last go around!!! Mahalo,,,,,,And just double checked the A board number, Tri State was wrong on that one as well, they listed the A board as A-1299-560-A, it's actually 256, had to dig through a touch of dust to make sure, perhaps the board #'s are interchangeable?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *holonalu* /forum/post/16118145
> 
> 
> D Board from Sony, part #A-1346-948-A, was $275.97, with shipping, to Hawaii. There is, however, a guy on Ebay, with the same board, new, I guess, for around 600 bucks!!! I'm gonna jump all over that one,,,,,,,,,,,, Anyways, my KV40XBR700 is back to it's old kukae again, I'm doing the repair myself this time, just need suggestions as to what would be a good stationary magnification device. I'll take my time this go around,,,
> 
> 
> Aloha from Maui



holonalu,


I'm sorry to read that your TV is having trouble again.


Regarding a magnifier, I used a head mounted magnifier and that worked out great. Here's what it looked like, although the one I bought also had built-in lights on the sides:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...IFIER/-/1.html 


Bob


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16123226
> 
> *Cajieboy:* Sounds like your set is still unwell?
> 
> *Raduilpig:* Did your ICs arrive?



Yeah, I've made a hobby of it!







...the back is off and ready whenever I am. A lot going on right now. Tomorrow, leaving for Mobile, AL for a week. Hope to give it another go when I get back. What is the proper part # for the D-Board on the KV-40XBR800? Thanks.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16125683
> 
> 
> holonalu,
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to read that your TV is having trouble again.
> 
> 
> Regarding a magnifier, I used a head mounted magnifier and that worked out great. Here's what it looked like, although the one I bought also had built-in lights on the sides:
> 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...IFIER/-/1.html
> 
> 
> Bob



Robert, that's a cool magnifier and priced right too!


----------



## jdre

*Cajieboy*: D board part number according to the Service Manual: *A-1300-319-A* Price varies $150-$549...You will want the magnifier to look at your D board so you can see the solder troubles.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16132455
> 
> *Cajieboy*: D board part number according to the Service Manual: *A-1300-319-A* Price varies $150-$549...You will want the magnifier to look at your D board so you can see the solder troubles.



Hi JDRE









Just curious???

Does any of these TVs (XBR) have a production date? You know sometimes there are changes in board designs and/or components, not saying that is the case with that one or any other XBR. Considering they came out with new models every year







(well, just about every year....lol).


Thanks


Oh hey! to robert







I didn't mean for it to be a hateful post towards Agoraquest..... I just noticed some people saying they had same problem with their TV (6,7... blinks, no sound, no picture) and found the answer there. So I was just curious at what the fix was or what was mentioned that was so helpful







. Is all









Sorry for the misunderstanding, if there was.....




As to holonalu....







I am also sorry for the problems you are having









On the bright side







if you can say there is one. You have learned a lot from this experience, haven't you? That electronics can be sooooo damn unperdictable sometimes!!!!!


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16125683
> 
> 
> holonalu,
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to read that your TV is having trouble again.
> 
> 
> Regarding a magnifier, I used a head mounted magnifier and that worked out great. Here's what it looked like, although the one I bought also had built-in lights on the sides:
> 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...IFIER/-/1.html
> 
> 
> Bob



That is a very nice one and a really good price!!!

You said you have one with a light on it. Do you have the link to that one or a similar model? Because I think the light on it is a MUST







!!!! Oh I tried different searches there and came up with no match










Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/16134021
> 
> 
> 
> Oh hey! to robert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't mean for it to be a hateful post towards Agoraquest..... I just noticed some people saying they had same problem with their TV (6,7... blinks, no sound, no picture) and found the answer there. So I was just curious at what the fix was or what was mentioned that was so helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the misunderstanding, if there was.....



No problems! I didn't see your post as hateful. I just thought you were curious.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/16134045
> 
> 
> That is a very nice one and a really good price!!!
> 
> You said you have one with a light on it. Do you have the link to that one or a similar model? Because I think the light on it is a MUST
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!! Oh I tried different searches there and came up with no match
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Here's a link to the exact head mounted magnifier model that I bought:

http://nesselectronics.com/index.php?loc=items_detail&data[major]=1&data[keys]=magnifier&data[catalog]=1&data[itemcode]=VELVTMG6 


Bob


----------



## raduilpig

Hello guys, I wanna thank you all and especially to you JRDE for the help! Today I received the ICs and parts and 2 hours later I had the job done







. My KV-30HS510 is working again, so I'm happy and now I'm going to watch my favorite movies







Thank you once again!


Here some pictures...


----------



## raduilpig

Hi, one thing left, I've noticed that there is a small area on the upper left corner that has light blue color. So, is there a way to remove the spot and get the whole display to be clear from spots and... you know?














Thank you!


----------



## number25

Thank you *jrde* and *RobertF* for your responses. Everyone on this site is so helpful. After reading every single post in this thread, I feel like I know everyone.


The picture width has the hourglass look )(. I did cross post my question at Agoraquest. Thanks to this forum I found out about that helpful site. I have thought about the cost of repair vs. replacement factor. I have seen the exact same set on Craig's List for $200. A very nice, new, larger screened LCD HDTV can be bought for under $1000. I do like this set and I would like to fix it. It may be easier now that I was able to print out the schematics on ARCH E sized paper (36x48 inch) with good resolution. I'm afraid I'm too old school to read schematics successfully on a computer screen.


Please be very cautious if you do decide to replace the caps on the D board with the caps TSM sells. The Sony caps are "keyed" - they will only fit in the holes on the PC board one way, the correct way. The caps from TSM are not keyed. Therefore, pay careful attention to all the markings on the PC board to make sure you place your caps in correctly.

*cajieboy* - I paid $194.99 for the D board from Sony. (This price includes a refundable core charge of $290.00. If you return the faulty part within 45 days you will receive a $290.00 credit.) It turns out Sony doesn't want my D board back so I now will have an extra D board.

*holonalu* I'm sorry to hear that your set is having problems again. I wish you luck with your repairs.


I plan on working on the set this weekend. If I have any luck fixing it I will let you know.


Thanks again. Cheryl


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umnavarch* /forum/post/16081527
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks a bunch to the long time guys from this thread for giving me the confidence to tackle this repair. I have a KV32HS500 that was intermittently getting the evil 7 red blinks. I have never soldered before, but because of this thread, I decided to give it a try. Thanks to Mark Goetz, RobertF and a special thanks to Eclipsedave (post 108-110) for posting the detailed procedure and pictures. After reading the whole thread I chose to move the D board into the service position rather than cut the plastic chassis. Replaced both 8002 and 6501 (no idea which was bad). In and out in 2 hours. Success! My wife couldn't believe I didn't kill myself and that it didn't take 3 weeks. My key - learning how to solder on line and then practicing 3 nights. I put in sockets because, even though it was a grand adventure and I did well at it, I don't wish to solder again. Great forum you have here - keep up the good work!



I'm happy to be of help and glad to see my efforts (_like soldering upside down while lying on my back_) helped others as well. *Mark Goetz gets credit for my successful repair* which resulted in my pictorial posts #108 thru #111. Additionally, long ago, I posted a quick blip to as many of those "tech Q&A" sites as I could possibly find, briefly describing my 6-7 blink TV status along with my email contact info. Since then, I have helped fix more than half a dozen TVs by simply clicking a mouse. Confession: I have been using the same email draft response when someone has initially reached out to me "off forum". So Mark made me a remote TV repairman and didn't even know it. HAH!

(Thanks to Mark and everyone else)

-Dave

P.S. I always encourage the emailer to post their experience here. Some do and others don't.


----------



## jdre

*Raduilpig:* Congratulations! Good fix for a Different Sony problem. Nice solder job! The blue area might clear up after you use the set and the degauss works at startup. Does it affect solid colors (red/green/blue)?

*number25:* You may just need use the Service Menu to reset Pin, Hsiz, etc if you are lucky. The B board generates the signals the D board drives the yoke DY.

*Mark Goetz:* They do have a production date on the back cover. There doesn't seem to be any references about circuit Revisions on the boards in the service manuals I have seen, but there could be elsewhere.


----------



## raduilpig

Hello, all







JDRE, everything now is OK with the spot, so thank you once again. I made some configurations on the TV, CXA2170D-1 and CXA2170D-2 .... I wish you all, success with the repairs.


----------



## GBG1956

Many thanks to this forum. I fixed my Sony KV-36HS500 that had the 7 blink problem. Special thanks to RobertF, Mark Goetz for the tip on the connection straps between the two boards, and eclipsedave for all the pictures in post #108. I spent about $30 on 4 MCZ3001DB chips from tristate, and $25 on sockets, solder soldering iron and desolder wick. It took about 2 hours to take the TV apart, remove the D board, solder the sockets in place and put the new IC in the sockets. Everything worked the first time around. Now instead of a 300+ pound door stop, or a $550 repair bill, I have a working TV. The only problem I have now is 'CABLE BOX' appearing in the top left of the screen, and I don't remember how to get rid of this message.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GBG1956* /forum/post/16152560
> 
> 
> Many thanks to this forum. I fixed my Sony KV-36HS500 that had the 7 blink problem. Special thanks to RobertF, Mark Goetz for the tip on the connection straps between the two boards, and eclipsedave for all the pictures in post #108. I spent about $30 on 4 MCZ3001DB chips from tristate, and $25 on sockets, solder soldering iron and desolder wick. It took about 2 hours to take the TV apart, remove the D board, solder the sockets in place and put the new IC in the sockets. Everything worked the first time around. Now instead of a 300+ pound door stop, or a $550 repair bill, I have a working TV. The only problem I have now is 'CABLE BOX' appearing in the top left of the screen, and I don't remember how to get rid of this message.



Congratulations on your successful repair!










I'm not sure how to remove the "Cable Box" label but perhaps another forum member can help out on that.


----------



## jdre

Here's how to change that Video Label:


Menu/Setup/Video Label/Select Video 1-7 with up/down joystick, click joystick/select label with side/side joystick,click joystick to select new label.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GBG1956* /forum/post/16152560
> 
> 
> The only problem I have now is 'CABLE BOX' appearing in the top left of the screen, and I don't remember how to get rid of this message.



press display on remote to clear that, if there is a signal on that input (if no input it will stay up until it sees an input). Well, that is how mine works, xbr800


----------



## HJSimpson

Well TV is back to not coming on:-(


Before I dive into this, I don't want to have to lay this bad boy on it's face, it's the 36HS510 and it's a ton! Can the back be remove while it's sitting on the stand? then I can remove the board? Or does the bottom come off with the back?


I have it sitting on a glass stand rated at 300lbs and I would rather not move it much or at all if possible...lol


----------



## holonalu

If it's anything like the KV40XBR it's just a hell of a lot of screws holding the rear cover on, battery driver comes in handy for getting it off, pretty simple to get the board out, just use the 20# sledge,,,,,,,,, not really, all the connectors come out easily, some have a release tab on them, so watch yourself. I'm preparing for round #2 of Holo VS the D board tomorrow, chips and sockets arrived, just waiting for the magnifying visor, wouldn't even consider doing this with just the naked eye. Not that there's anything wrong with naked eyes,,,,,,,,,,,I mean, if you want to let your eyes go running around naked it's up to you. Oh, one other thing, I thought it was a good idea to put the board on it's backside, (HEY!!!!!!!!!! I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE THINKING!!!!!!!!!!! NOTHING LIKE THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!), and desolder from there,,,,,,,, well, the solder, once liquified, has a tendency to follow the laws of gravity, and trickles down to the surface of the board before you can remove it with the solder sucker. You know, there are some laws you can mess with, Gravity isn't one of them!!! Keep the board in a vertical position, and I won't even touch that one with all the sexual overtones,,, only joking,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


Aloha from Maui


----------



## jdre

HJSimpson: You should remove the back whith TV on the stand and then carefully release the 2 catches that hold the chassis. Have to release wiggle, release other, wiggle until loose from the front. Pull it back about 3 inches and then remove the screws holding down the D board. Release the 3 or 4 bridge connectors, (finger busters, pull up one end at a time). Release the catches on the left edge and corners while carefully lifting up the board. Then unplug the connectors along the front edge and you can lift the board up and get it past vertical it will rest there so you can use the solder braid. You will not need to cut any framework, nor disconnect High Voltage leads. I have some pictures in past postings.


----------



## isleep

1. Do you clean the dust off all the boards/interior when the back is off (if so, how?) or is it better to let sleeping dogs lie and not disturb the dust?

2. For those who lay the tv on its screen to do the repair, do you take the back off first or after its tipped on its face?

3. Assuming the tv has been unplugged for a couple days, are there any dangerous/shock hazard parts to avoid around the two ic's?

4. Are there any screws on the chassis that do not need to be unscrewed to remove the chassis ?

Thanks and great thread. Just waiting on my sockets (local radioshack didn't have)


----------



## jdre

1. Yes, I use soft brush and vacuum if bad, or just some dust-off spray. Have to be careful not to bump the CRT neck adjustments or boards.


2. Doesn't matter. The back goes on easier if the set is face down, but can be done either way. Use a soft surface if putting TV face down.


3. The large filter capacitors hold charge but not for days. Verify with voltmeter. My sets discharge in less than 1/2 hour.


4. All back screws gold color must come off, along with cables. The chassis is built on a plastic frame and the D board is on the left, only have to remove D board screws to lift it up (avoid cutting frame method).


----------



## blurrr

Hi everyone


I have a KV 32HS500 that's been acting up lately. It doesn't want to power on. after i press the on button, i hear the TV power up, then hear a click, then the TV powers down. The "click" sounds like a relay.


The TV diagnostics gave 6 blinks last week, but today it gave 7 blinks. And the unusual thing is the TV works at night. during the day, I've tried turning it on several times but to no avail. but at night, it usually turns on with one press of the on button. there have been times when i had to press on multiple time, but more often than not, 1 press is all it takes.


i suspect the problem has something to do with the highs and lows (fluctuations) of the voltage. maybe at night, since there are less appliances working, the power is much more stable (?)


will an Automated Voltage Regulator (AVR) help in my case? hope to hear from you guys.


thanks in advance.


----------



## jdre

Welcome to the AVS forum! Your problem can be solved!







Try pages 1-4 of this topic Especially: Page 4 

Gets to the detail of which ICs (MCZ3001DB) are needed. Also read through the last few pages, 15 has a few closeups of the ICs on the board from my Sony.


----------



## HJSimpson

OK, now my TV comes on every 4 days, so I'm going to dive into this and fix it for good everyone likes it better than the new LCD.


I can get IC MCZ3001D on Ebay, but I see you said MCZ3001DB what does the B mean and do the chips without the B work? I have the 36HS510.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HJSimpson* /forum/post/16242508
> 
> 
> OK, now my TV comes on every 4 days, so I'm going to dive into this and fix it for good everyone likes it better than the new LCD.
> 
> 
> I can get IC MCZ3001D on Ebay, but I see you said MCZ3001DB what does the B mean and do the chips without the B work? I have the 36HS510.



The "B" signifies a new variant and it can be used interchangeably with the basic "D " variant.


There has been speculation that the "DB" variant has improved reliability but I've never sen any confirmation of that. I installed the MCZ3001D ICs in my KV-36XBR400 and they've operated without a problem for several years now.


But, given a choice, I would opt for the "DB" variant in the event they are more reliable.


----------



## HJSimpson

Great, just wanted to be sure either chip variation would work, thanks










Can't wait to get this old behemoth working full time again, it's by far better than my new LCD, it does SD better, viewing angles are perfect, it's like looking out a window, colors, sharpness, and ZERO motion blur, so it would be a sin to see this on the dump. About the only thing the LCD wins is size and 1080p 24fps bluray movies, which look great.


Man I would love to have a 46" 1080p wide screen crt, of course it would weigh 500lbs lol...my hope is SED or FED nano scale CRT tech gets going.


----------



## tonythetiger925

Hi all, I've been reading the posts all morning, and I have a few questions before I start to try and repair my TV.

First off, I have a KV34HS510. I'm not sure exatly whic IC parts to order, I would hate to ordere the wrong ones, so, any help as to where to look would be great. Also I have seen different places listed as to where to buy these parts from, any suggestions as to whomb to buy them from would be great.

Thank you


----------



## hplar317

I have a sony KV-36hs510 that has the dreaded 4 to 6 blinking standby light problem. Could any one send me details on resolving this problem?


----------



## jdre

Welcome! Try page 4 and 15 of this topic for starters. You will need 2 MCZ3001DB and 2 sockets for them (Radio Shack 276-1992), solder, solder wick, Philips screwdriver, patience and skill.


----------



## kendal_emery

Hey all, love the advice, but have a slight problem. I have a 36" and in the process of unsoldering the 80XX (sorry don't have the exact number in front of me, but you know which one) and there is a component in the middle down around pins 5 and 6. Well, the soldering iron slipped, and that component is now part of the carpet. Can someone with a schematic tell me the specs on that component. Not really sure if it is a capacitor, resistor or diode, but something tells me it needs to be there


----------



## jdre

I'd look in that carpet with a very bright light. Sounds like R8057 near IC8002 see picture. 13,000 ohms resistor 1/16 watt, .5% tolerance, Sony part number 1-218-719-11. It's got 133 printed on it, barely readable in my photo.


----------



## BobC3

Hi everyone. I have run across this forum since my XBR960 stopped working. It is very informative forum. I too have the 6 to 7 flashing led light. I dont see hardly any 960 concerns. I am wondering if I have the same concern with the bad IC 6501 and 8002 chips like everyone else has stated with a 6 to 7 flashing led light? I am not sure if my XBR960 has the same problem with the other tvs that are stated in this forum. I wanted to find out if this is true, before I order my new chips.


Any information is greatly appreciated.


Thank you

BobC3


----------



## jdre

I *believe* so. The XBR960 DZ board is almost the same as the D boards in all the other DA4 chassis Sonys. Has IC8002 and IC6501 MCZ3001D. Must be because they 960s are newer they haven't been failing that way yet. Try here for your service manual. You can download one schematic per week from that site. Good luck fixing that great set.


----------



## donkeychowder

I've replaced the ICs with the same kinds from Tristate modules (i forgot exactly what they're called). Anyway, I've soldered them into place and everything, but my tv is still not working. It's still blinking on standby 7 times. I'm not sure what to do from here, so does anyone have any ideas of what to do? Thanks.


----------



## jdre

My 34HS510 was blinking 6 times *after* the ICs (MCZ3001DB) were replaced. The repair was featured on Page 15 I then got a partial power up because of a cut board trace, now it is working. Carefully recheck all work on the chip pins, chip position (notch to left as marked on top of D board), and for a cut board trace if you removed plastic from the frame. You might need to trace the circuit with your ohm meter (and schematic ) or just be sure the chips are seated in the sockets if you used them.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donkeychowder* /forum/post/16342187
> 
> 
> I've replaced the ICs with the same kinds from Tristate modules (i forgot exactly what they're called). Anyway, I've soldered them into place and everything, but my tv is still not working. It's still blinking on standby 7 times. I'm not sure what to do from here, so does anyone have any ideas of what to do? Thanks.



Here are some generic suggestions:


If you haven't already, you might want to disconnect and firmly reconnect _any_ connectors that you pulled apart during the repair.


If you used sockets, you might even want to pull and reseat the ICs.


If you used sockets and if you have spare MCZ3001D ICs, you might want to swap one of those out with the installed ICs in the event you got a bad IC. (That's probably unlikely but it's easy to check with the sockets.)


How well did your desoldering go? Is there any chance that you pulled up any of the PCB trace material during that?


----------



## holonalu

Well, replacement D board #2 arrived today, I'm so accustomed to disconnecting that board that its become like second nature, reinstalling it and hooking everything back up takes 3 minutes, tops!! Sooooo,,,,,,, anyways, I get the new one back in, reconnect the red to the CRT, the red to the C board, the cross connects to the C board, the couple coming down from the C board and the B&W two pin connector. All set to go, turn it on, about 11 blinks,,,and,,,,FRIGGIN NADA!!!!!!!!! I was PO'd big time. So, I'm thinking it must be the C board, it's got an MZC3001DB chip on it, maybe I'll just slide it out and replace that one, seeing as now I finally kind of have desoldering dialed in, and obviously know what I'm doing, I mean, I actually KNOW people at Radio Shack now!!!! Soooooooo, I slide the chasis back out into the service position, break out the flashlight, take a look, Yep, there's another one of those dreaded Shindengin IC's in there, seeing as I DO know what I'm doing, and have backup sockets and IC's, figure I can have that bad boy out in an hour or two, new socket in and MCZ. Sooooo, I'm looking around a little more, and see this socket on the D Board with no cable plugged into it, and then see another one, plus one more!!!!! WTF, how could this be??? Needless to say, sometimes guys that think they know what they're doing really don't have a clue,,,,,,,,,, plugged the other stuff back in, PRESTO!!!!!!! THERE IS LIFE ONCE AGAIN ON PLANET XBR700!!!!!!! Anyways, as an extra bonus, THE BIRDS had just started!!!! My advice to anyone would be, don't take my advice,,,,,,,,,,, if you want to take anything with the desoldering, take your time, don't stay in contact with any pad for more than maybe 3 seconds, use nothing more than a 25 watt soldering iron, have good lighting and magnification, always keep in mind, that once you lose a pad, or lift a trace, the job for repairing the board is now probably out of your range.

Just for laughs, I'm going to try the D board that I installed the sockets in tomorrow, the only reason I never tried it before was because I was uncertain as to the orientation of the IC.

On a sidenote, my Panawrongic DVD player called it quits just the other day, pulled the lid, a little POS Chinese electrolytic capacitor, truly a 38 cent part, has a blowout on the lid, and has shut the whole 200 something dollar DVD off. Pity is, this is one I know I can fix, already have the Cap out, same thing happened to an earlier one, same model, but I never looked under the hood, just trashed it, probably would have been an easy fix. Evidently China has flooded the world market with extremely low quality electrolytic CAPs, and they're blowing all over the place...... Just a few thoughts, FROM A FRIGGIN PRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well, not really............................


Aloha from Maui,,,, temp about 78, tradewinds light and variable, chances of rainfall where it normally rains, and little or no rainfall where it normally doesn't


----------



## jdre

Glad to hear the XBR700 is alive, they always work best when the wires are connected







The ICS have a little notch in them, just match to the good D board or dots marked on the board. If you soldered it well, should work. I hate those cheap capacitors, common problem on LCD computer monitors. I put Panasonic caps in my Viewsonic in place of popped Capxons to fix it (hope they last, supposed to be long lived). Maybe Panasonic didn't use their own parts in the DVD.


PS: Was 85 in Rochester, NY last weekend, today 45 rain


----------



## slugster

Hi all. My first post is one of success. Everything I needed to know was right here. Imagine my suprise when my KV36HS500 powered up this evening. I tried soldering upside down but it didn't work out too well--that and I think I have a pretty cheap soldering iron. Once I laid it one it's face it was quick work.


My background is a network engineer but my soldering skills were non-existent. I pulled apart an old PC and started desoldering/soldering parts from the motherboard, modem, and network card (very old PC). I did have to cut the little piece of plastic off but my dremel made short work of that. I used the pinball soldering guide, and the step-by-step pics on page 4. Kudos to the guys who posted those--they were a big help.


Total cost was under $50 for the chips, inserts, soldering braid, and the corect solder. I have two spare chips and two spare inserts if I need them in the future.


Thanks again from my whole family--especially my ten-year old who lost the bedroom TV when this happened.


----------



## jdre

Nice to have it work the first time! Did your old PC survive the training?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slugster* /forum/post/16386819
> 
> 
> Hi all. My first post is one of success. Everything I needed to know was right here. Imagine my suprise when my KV36HS500 powered up this evening.




Congratulations on your successful repair!


And thank you for saving another Sony from a landfill.


Bob


----------



## holonalu

After having read all these posts, and resurrecting my 40xbr700 twice, I kind of regret having trashed some equipment in the past that was more than likely fixable. My Panawrongic DVD player, not a cheap one, bit the big one the other night. Spotted what I thought was the problem, ordered raplacement part from TRI, 32 cents, about ten minutes of my time, DVD player is good as new again. Think my days of buying Panasonic products are pau, as in finished. Thanks to all for the information and advice posted here


Aloha from Maui

78 degrees, tradewinds light and variable, I KNOW!!!!!!! I'm trying to cope, if it gets down to 77 I'm putting on a shirt,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


----------



## isleep

Well, I was getting the 6 blink code, not turning on issue. Ordered sockets and IC's and every thing seemed to go just fine. Solder removal fine, soldering sockets fine, right orientation to ICs, but on power up would get long hiss followed by a very startling pop and then a 4 blink code. Triple checked all connections, replaced ICs with spares and even tried resoldering sockets, but always the same. Pretty sure didnt damage anything as extremely careful. I did let the 6 blink problem go on for several months. Left tv on for about 4 weeks, so maybe this damaged something.


Bowing head in the shame of failure. 46" panasonic G10 arrives tomorrow.


Anyways, thanks for all the info on this thread. Had a great time relearning soldering. Built a remote control airplane controller/radio and servos from parts kit when twelve or thirteen--worked fine for 15 years and fun project for a kid. Good luck to all.


p.s. When I was soldering as a kid, I had a couple solder iron burns on my fingers and now whenever I smell burning flesh (as a vet doing laser surgery, not as a serial killer burning bodies) I get a strong sense of nostalgia.


----------



## ay221

I have the same problem, I think it might be the chips. The workaround for me is to heat up the area where the chips are located at. I stick a blow dryer in hot mode for a couple of minutes on the right side of the tv at the bottom. My TV is the KV-21hs420. The reason I figured this out is that when it's warm in the room it starts up without much problem.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *isleep* /forum/post/16399302
> 
> 
> Well, I was getting the 6 blink code, not turning on issue. Ordered sockets and IC's and every thing seemed to go just fine. Solder removal fine, soldering sockets fine, right orientation to ICs, but on power up would get long hiss followed by a very startling pop and then a 4 blink code. Triple checked all connections, replaced ICs with spares and even tried resoldering sockets, but always the same. Pretty sure didnt damage anything as extremely careful. I did let the 6 blink problem go on for several months. Left tv on for about 4 weeks, so maybe this damaged something.
> 
> 
> Bowing head in the shame of failure. 46" panasonic G10 arrives tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Anyways, thanks for all the info on this thread. Had a great time relearning soldering. Built a remote control airplane controller/radio and servos from parts kit when twelve or thirteen--worked fine for 15 years and fun project for a kid. Good luck to all.
> 
> 
> p.s. When I was soldering as a kid, I had a couple solder iron burns on my fingers and now whenever I smell burning flesh (as a vet doing laser surgery, not as a serial killer burning bodies) I get a strong sense of nostalgia.



Well at least you gave it a good shot. It could just be that your power up problems were simply due to something else. Without any board level diagnostics, these IC replacements are a roll of the dice.


Bob


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ay221* /forum/post/16399779
> 
> 
> I have the same problem, I think it might be the chips. The workaround for me is to heat up the area where the chips are located at. I stick a blow dryer in hot mode for a couple of minutes on the right side of the tv at the bottom. My TV is the KV-21hs420. The reason I figured this out is that when it's warm in the room it starts up without much problem.



Yes, the blow dryer trick has worked for others also. I tried it with my KV-36XBR400 when it had power up problems but it didn't help. (IC6501 was the problem on my set.)


----------



## ay221

So replacing the two IC chips on my set may or may not fix the problem. Will eventually the blowdryer trick not work anymore either?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ay221* /forum/post/16402362
> 
> 
> So replacing the two IC chips on my set may or may not fix the problem. Will eventually the blowdryer trick not work anymore either?



Yes, replacing the ICs doesn't work in all cases. But it does seem to work for a substantial number of those that have tried it.


And the blow dryer trick may stop working at some point.


----------



## blurrr

i just want to update everyone that my KV-32HS500 is working again







thanks JDRE and those who gave their feedback


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blurrr* /forum/post/16437754
> 
> 
> i just want to update everyone that my KV-32HS500 is working again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks JDRE and those who gave their feedback



Thanks for the update and congratulations on your successful repair.


Did you replace both MCZ3001D ICs?


Did you use sockets?


----------



## jdre

blurrr: Good to hear you succeeded!


----------



## lobodougie

Thanks to all who have provided the info here. Yet another KV-34XBR800 salvation!!!


----------



## ay221

I ordered my IC chips from here

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DPJRT6 


Will put them on hopefully this weekend and see what happens.


----------



## blurrr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16437792
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update and congratulations on your successful repair.
> 
> 
> Did you replace both MCZ3001D ICs?
> 
> 
> Did you use sockets?



yes, both IC's were replaced. sockets weren't used


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blurrr* /forum/post/16443825
> 
> 
> yes, both IC's were replaced. sockets weren't used



Thanks for the details.


Bob


----------



## jdre

Lobodougie: Congratulations, always nice to hear about success!


----------



## str8pathsony

Thank you for this forum. I should have posted a little bit of my contribution to this thread as a sign of my gratitude in helping me save $$$

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1146629 


Sorry but thank you.


----------



## jdre

str8pathsony: Your topic is worth a look by anyone going into the TV the first time. I think it's great this forum is adding to the Sony TV repair knowledge every day.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16464214
> 
> 
> str8pathsony: Your topic is worth a look by anyone going into the TV the first time. I think it's great this forum is adding to the Sony TV repair knowledge every day.



I agree. The YouTube videos are pretty cool.


----------



## str8pathsony

Thank you. I did encounter a question which I could not find a detailed photo on discharging the anode. I did mine but I was not sure if I discharged it right or just that the anode cap was already totally discharged.


----------



## krs_max

Just ordered IC's and sockets, can't wait to have my beautiful set working again! What a thread! It's like WebMD for sony tv's here! Nice!!


Two questions for you great people: 1. Is there a way to detach the plastic front glare filter from the tube itself? and 2. If so, is there anyone here who has been unsuccessful in resurrecting their KV34XBR800 that would be willing to sell me their glare filter? I have a nasty 4-inch gash on mine from moving a couple of years ago that I'm sooooo tired of (I intelligently signed the release before unwrapping my TV - bad day).


Thanks again for all the tips and repair write-ups! You guys all deserve cash awards!


-Kel


----------



## krs_max

Never mind on the glare filter - it's a coating applied directly to the glass... bummer.







Will post repair results soon!


----------



## rickumali

This is an intense thread!

My own Sony KV-36XBR800 began the seven blink dance a few days ago. With the TV off for a few days, and a spare TV sitting next to it, we somehow hit the remote for the Sony, and it came on! What a surprise, right? It's like it decided to work again!


This happened in the late afternoon today. I'm not sure if this is a fluke, but I wanted to contribute it to this thread. My Sony is less than eight years old. I'll report back tomorrow evening to let you all know if the TV continues to "still work."


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rickumali* /forum/post/16493337
> 
> 
> This is an intense thread!
> 
> My own Sony KV-36XBR800 began the seven blink dance a few days ago. With the TV off for a few days, and a spare TV sitting next to it, we somehow hit the remote for the Sony, and it came on! What a surprise, right? It's like it decided to work again!
> 
> 
> This happened in the late afternoon today. I'm not sure if this is a fluke, but I wanted to contribute it to this thread. My Sony is less than eight years old. I'll report back tomorrow evening to let you all know if the TV continues to "still work."



My KV-36XBR400 behaved in a similar manner. Soon it took multiple on/off cycles of the remote's power button to get the TV to power up. Then even this method started to take more and more cycles and, at some point, it would never come on.


But hopefully your set will be fine.


----------



## jrfrancisco712

This is a great thread and I just want to contribute my little story!


I purchased a broken KV-34XBR910 for $60 from someone on craigslist with the blinking lights issue with thoughts of fixing it. Took the TV home and plugged it in and to my surprise it turned on and I tested each input to make sure that they worked. Then I opened it up and found a bunch of cat hair inside, so I vacuumed it all out, then reassembled and installed the TV in my bedroom. So I thought I got away clean...


After about a month of watching everyday, I started to get blinking lights every now and then, that would go away by pressing the power button again on the remote. Then after about a week of that, it just stopped turning on. Thanks to you guys on the forum, I have already ordered the parts and did the repair yesterday by replacing the two ICs. Only took about an hour of work.


After replacing the chips, the TV turns on every time, the first time.


Thanks again to all the help for a great community.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrfrancisco712* /forum/post/16499906
> 
> 
> This is a great thread and I just want to contribute my little story!
> 
> 
> I purchased a broken KV-34XBR910 for $60 from someone on craigslist with the blinking lights issue with thoughts of fixing it. Took the TV home and plugged it in and to my surprise it turned on and I tested each input to make sure that they worked. Then I opened it up and found a bunch of cat hair inside, so I vacuumed it all out, then reassembled and installed the TV in my bedroom. So I thought I got away clean...
> 
> 
> After about a month of watching everyday, I started to get blinking lights every now and then, that would go away by pressing the power button again on the remote. Then after about a week of that, it just stopped turning on. Thanks to you guys on the forum, I have already ordered the parts and did the repair yesterday by replacing the two ICs. Only took about an hour of work.
> 
> 
> After replacing the chips, the TV turns on every time, the first time.
> 
> 
> Thanks again to all the help for a great community.



That's awesome!


Congratulations on your successful repair!


Not only did you buy a top notch display for a rock bottom price but you now have the satisfaction of repairing it yourself. As an added bonus you have saved another Sony from a landfill.


Bob


----------



## rickumali

Well, I'm here to report that my TV continues to work (see post #601 ).


I think I should be happy except that in the few days that it was off, I went ahead and purchased another TV (an LCD, the Panasonic TC-L37S1). So I'm reporting with a strong sense of buyer's remorse. I think I'll put the Sony on Craigslist, so I can read about someone fixing it! Peace!


----------



## [email protected]

Hi all,


I bought a KV-32HS510. at a garage sale from a lady who was selling it as is "not working" for $10. I figured what the heck! Found this site and was ecstatic that there was a possibility to fix this beast affordably. I was getting the 6-7 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself. I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 with a socket and the appropriate MCZ3001DB chip. There was no need to cut the plastic or flip the TV on its face. The D board can be rotated into its "service" position easily enough (no cable removal either).


Desoldering went very well - no lifted material off of board. Soldered in the sockets (with chips inserted), Ohm checked the solders all looked OK, too good to be true. Plugged it in same symptoms. ARGH. Rechecked solder points still a no go. Replaced chips with two spare new chips. No good. Double argh. Desoldered everything, checked the board everything looks ok. Directly soldered the two new chips into place, plugged it in. It made a slightly different sound and there was brief audio then back to the same.


I'm going to recheck the solder joints again but I'm about at wits end. Just to let you know I have made sure that the pins are in the proper order (skipping 13 and 17), and all the cables are securely plugged in. Any suggestions?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/16511042
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I bought a KV-32HS510. at a garage sale from a lady who was selling it as is "not working" for $10. I figured what the heck! Found this site and was ecstatic that there was a possibility to fix this beast affordably. I was getting the 6-7 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself. I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 with a socket and the appropriate MCZ3001DB chip. There was no need to cut the plastic or flip the TV on its face. The D board can be rotated into its "service" position easily enough (no cable removal either).
> 
> 
> Desoldering went very well - no lifted material off of board. Soldered in the sockets (with chips inserted), Ohm checked the solders all looked OK, too good to be true. Plugged it in same symptoms. ARGH. Rechecked solder points still a no go. Replaced chips with two spare new chips. No good. Double argh. Desoldered everything, checked the board everything looks ok. Directly soldered the two new chips into place, plugged it in. It made a slightly different sound and there was brief audio then back to the same.
> 
> 
> I'm going to recheck the solder joints again but I'm about at wits end. Just to let you know I have made sure that the pins are in the proper order (skipping 13 and 17), and all the cables are securely plugged in. Any suggestions?



Well that's frustrating.


Did you disconnect anything during the repair? If so, disconnect and reconnect all of those items.


Since the TV was not working when you got it, is it possible that a previous, unsuccessful repair attempt was made on it?


Also, does the KV-32HS510 have an MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board? (My 36XBR400 does.) If so, try replacing that also.


Another very real possibility is that the MCZ3001D ICs were fine all along and there's something else wrong.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## jdre

The MCZ3001s are only on the D board on the 32HS510. I would take your Ohm meter and schematic (see schematic site for 32HS500) in hand and trace that each pin goes to the rest of the circuit. Fix any problems with traces, check all little parts are in place on the bottom of the board. My set went from 6 blinks repeating to 3 non-repeating. Then I found a cut board trace (see Page 15 of this topic.) You may have seen that page. The "hinge connectors" to D board could very easily not be seated, or some small plug is loose. What is the blink pattern? Chip notches face the outside edge of the board.


----------



## ay221

I got the chips replaced and now everything works good. Do I need to do this?


"IMPORTANT: After you repair the unit, you MUST clear the values on this diagnostic screen. These codes do not reset themselves after the fault is corrected, so if you don't clear them, you'll be seeing "old" fault codes the next time you enter this screen. Clearing is done by going into the service mode (display, channel, 5, volume plus, then power ). Press 8 and Enter, which returns everything to the factory preset condition."


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ay221* /forum/post/16516932
> 
> 
> I got the chips replaced and now everything works good. Do I need to do this?
> 
> 
> "IMPORTANT: After you repair the unit, you MUST clear the values on this diagnostic screen. These codes do not reset themselves after the fault is corrected, so if you don't clear them, you'll be seeing "old" fault codes the next time you enter this screen. Clearing is done by going into the service mode (display, channel, 5, volume plus, then power ). Press 8 and Enter, which returns everything to the factory preset condition."



No, you don't need to do that. But it's probably a good idea in the event you use the diagnostic menu down the road. And the steps to clear the values are pretty simple.


And congratulations on your repair!


----------



## ay221




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16517396
> 
> 
> No, you don't need to do that. But it's probably a good idea in the event you use the diagnostic menu down the road. And the steps to clear the values are pretty simple.
> 
> 
> And congratulations on your repair!



Thanks. I was considering an LCD before the chip replacement, now I will continue to view this for sometime. It's hard to beat the quality of a crt with black levels, shadow details, viewing angles, and low lag when playing video games.


----------



## krs_max

Well, the gleeful feeling of a DIY repair was very short lived for me. I replaced both IC's in my 34XBR800. It worked for a total of 3 days. The 7 lights came back. I swapped both chips out with the old chips in all possible positions and nothing. I put the two new ones back in and it worked again. After a day of working, the set now powers down after 3 blinks and no repeat. I've tried reseating all of the connectors in case there was some corrosion as caillo pointed out, but still a no go. The IC on the A-board is not the MC chip. Any ideas guys?


Thanks to all the contributors to this thread. Even if all this doesn't work out, it was interesting and fun to try!


----------



## krs_max

Quick update: Just tried swapping the positions of the two new IC's. The problem is now back to the 7 lights. I'm starting to think one of my new chips was bad from the get go.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krs_max* /forum/post/16525229
> 
> 
> Quick update: Just tried swapping the positions of the two new IC's. The problem is now back to the 7 lights. I'm starting to think one of my new chips was bad from the get go.



If you haven't already, you might want to retouch all of the new solder connections.


----------



## ike022




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/13803967
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention that I first soldered the IC sockets in place and that soldering upside down was challenging, but not impossible. I can see where turning the TV on it's face would really help.
> 
> I could have saved time by trying IC8002 first and then I wouldn't have had to cut away any plastic, but now there are 2 IC sockets in place and I've got an extra MCZ3001DB for any needed replacement in the future. With sockets installed, it should be a quick and easy job. I used a Weller WTCPT soldering iron and some no-clean solder for the job.
> 
> Note: Without the aid of that chip puller, I would have had real difficulty removing the original chips. Even with the TV set unplugged, it's like a real life game of Milton Bradley's Operation.



When you ended the statement with "it's like a real life game of Milton Bradley's Operation"


Does this mean you have to be careful of a capacitor near by discharging???


Besides unplugging the set, should any capacitor be discharged before working on set ?


----------



## jdre

I think he was referring to the awkwardness of getting the chips installed. The large filter capacitors of concern bleed off in about 5 minutes (you can check with a volt meter).


----------



## krs_max

Alright! My 34XBR800 is alive again after repair number 2! Turns out one of the chips from repair number one was bad. My first set of chips was from an eBay vendor. Following some earlier advice from caillo in the thread, I decided to be safe the second time around and spent some extra coin on chips from a reputable vendor (I went with B&D). I would suggest this to everyone else performing the repair. Don't blow it off and go with a cheaply built chip from ebay over a few bucks. Seriously! It TOTALLY sucks to do the repair, enjoy it for three days, watch the standby light flash at you again, and be even madder than the first time your TV stopped working. A lesson learned the hard way for me...


Good luck everyone! Thanks to RobertF for the personal reply when the first repair went bad.


----------



## krs_max




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ike022* /forum/post/16533152
> 
> 
> When you ended the statement with "it's like a real life game of Milton Bradley's Operation"
> 
> 
> Does this mean you have to be careful of a capacitor near by discharging???
> 
> 
> Besides unplugging the set, should any capacitor be discharged before working on set ?



If you're just doing the chip replacement, no you don't have to, just be careful. If you decide to use sockets, when you're installing the chips into them (use a chip puller! it makes things easy), don't accidentally touch any part of the FBT (the funny looking box with the red wire coming out of the top, very close to the chips) with your hand. You'll see what I mean. I'm right handed and the outside of my palm would naturally be very close to it when installing my replacement chips. I did this on my first repair and got zapped pretty good. Nothing painful, but I could definitely "feel the flow."


----------



## jdre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krs_max* /forum/post/16543931
> 
> 
> ..I decided to be safe the second time around and spent some extra coin on chips from a reputable vendor (I went with B&D). I would suggest this to everyone else performing the repair. Don't blow it off and go with a cheaply built chip from ebay over a few bucks.



That is where I got my MCZ3001DB chips from. I trust them to sell "genuine" parts. Sometimes there can be counterfeits. Or, a new IC can simply be bad. (I work in an electronics factory and it's rare, but does happen.)


----------



## sonyws510

After I replaced the two stk392-560 ICs on my sony ws510 tv, the red light blinks 6 times. Should I resolder both?


----------



## jdre

What is the full model, I suspect you have a projection TV? It's always a good idea to recheck the installation (solder short, splash, board trace damaged.)


----------



## sonyws510

My Sony model is kp 51ws510. I am going to desolder again.


----------



## ike022

Thanks eclipsedave, I first changed the ic chip. The one you could change without cutting the plastic shell.

That was the one, tv is up and running.

Great pictures on your post and thanks for the help

ike022


repair time was just over one hour.


----------



## jdre

Congratulations!


----------



## SomeDouche

Ok guys, have a lot of questions and a story to go with it, so just be patient with me. I am pretty good with soldering, ive soldered many things like car stereo wiring and the like, but ive never de-soldered or used solder sucker, etc. Ive been working on pc's since i was a child and taking apart the TV has no effect on me. I went ahead and ordered the chips, and im going to go to frys today and get the 18-pin sockets, decent soldering iron (going to keep it and re-wire a arcade stick while im at it), solder, solder wick and a solder sucker. I just finished reading this entire thread from beginning to end as well.


Now, the TV in question is a 34XBR910. I got it for free with the original stand and remote. They said it turns on randomly, and when i lugged it to my brothers garage (im in the middle of a move atm), i quickly plugged it in and it would just do the red blinking, so i turned it off and left it there. As i said, ive read the entire thread and feel very confident that i will be able to get this up and running easily. That said, i have some questions...


1: I want to unplug as LITTLE as possible. From what ive read, i can just remove the cover, unplug about 4-5 wires, and then push the plastic up and pull it out to put it into service mode. Then i would need to cut the plastic piece to get to the bottom of the 2nd IC. Is this correct? I would rather do this then get my hands near anything that could kill me. That is my #1 concern, to accidentally touch something and then i go to be with the lord.


2: uhm, see question #1.


If i can do the fix using how i described it, i am super confident i can do it with ease and cleanly. I plan on practicing removing solder off of old pc boards first to make sure im competent enough to do it one time and do it right.


If anyone perhaps has a diagram (or better yet, a picture with everything marked) of what i would need to pull off connector wise to get the board into service mode, that would be wonderful. Thanks.


p.s. - I was going to buy a 34XBR960 but then this 910 just magically became avail to me, and for free. I have a 34HS510 now and absolutely LOVE it, but i wanted a XBR with SFP and im sure im going to love this 910 once its up and running.


----------



## [email protected]

I rechecked the solder points and metered all the connections for the two chips and all look ok. It doesn't look like any one else has worked on this previously and there are no visible signs of damage. I am getting some other blinking codes now though. On plugging it in i get 7 long blinks followed by 7 fast (repeated). pressing the power button I will get a 5,4 or 5,7 or the oddest of all 11 long followed by a long pause then 6 fast (repeated). Any clues? Remember this is after putting in two sets of new chips.


----------



## jdre

somedouche: try this topic str8pathsony to get a better look at the insides. Your set is slightly different, but not by much. Avoid cutting plastic, can easily cut the board trace, I had to fix one in a post a few pages back. I've fixed a couple Sonys a 32HS510 and 34HS510. You are lucky, getting a 34XBR910 free! I got my 34HS510 free, but bought the stand. I'm watching for a 960!


----------



## jdre

tsmillie: if you are sure both chips are connected and oriented properly, next thing I'd check is all the various plugs on the D board, especially the hinge connectors. Then see if the Mosfets are shorted. Also, someone posted about issues with chips bought on ebay being bad, if you did, try some from bdent.com.


----------



## [email protected]

JDRE, the chips are oriented correctly. I've rechecked the hinge connectors several times as they are the only ones I needed to disconnect to get the D-board in the service position. Mosfets? I'm a bit of a noob so please point me in the right direction. The chips were not from Ebay but instead were from a company called suburban electronics. Is there anyway to test these? They looked brand spanking new.


----------



## jdre

Do you have the schematic? If not, try here: schematics , scroll to 32HS500. That will tell you which parts are which. The MOSFETS are Q8013,Q8014,Q6507,Q6506. Check if they are shorted. If you did not have the schematic before, recheck the circuits with the aid of the schematic. Check for cut traces if you cut plastic..If you plug in and turn on the TV, does it click, hum, click and then just flash standby. How many flashes?

My experience is with 6 blinks that repeat. Look first at IC 6501 circuit.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16608393
> 
> 
> somedouche: try this topic str8pathsony to get a better look at the insides. Your set is slightly different, but not by much. Avoid cutting plastic, can easily cut the board trace, I had to fix one in a post a few pages back. I've fixed a couple Sonys a 32HS510 and 34HS510. You are lucky, getting a 34XBR910 free! I got my 34HS510 free, but bought the stand. I'm watching for a 960!



I am very careful and should be able to get the piece cut without issue. Also, when i set the chip back into the socket, isnt there a chance i could easily put the chip in backwards? If so, how do i know for sure which way goes which?


----------



## jdre

I serviced my sets by propping up the D board, like a hood on an antique car. You do have to unhook the hinge connectors and release some clips at the edge of the board and remove screws. It is possible to succeed with the cut plastic method. The chips can very easily be put in backwards. Take digital camera photos or notes as you work, so you can see how it was before taking it apart. The chips have notches that face left (when you look at D board from rear of TV. There are dots on the board that indicate the notches too.


----------



## SomeDouche

Thank you for the info. I feel very confident for this project. Has anyone here done a actual 910 before? Ive been told to get the board into Service Position, its much different then the older tv's. Please let me know.


----------



## jdre

I took a look in my 960 manual see schematics . The plastic frame is different on the 960. The part in the way of the chips looks like it interlocks with the cabinet, might be best to not cut it if your 910 is the same. The release procedure is the same.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16617918
> 
> 
> I took a look in my 960 manual see schematics . The plastic frame is different on the 960. The part in the way of the chips looks like it interlocks with the cabinet, might be best to not cut it if your 910 is the same. The release procedure is the same.



That will complicate things. Ill keep it in mind before i go hacking away.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SomeDouche* /forum/post/16621563
> 
> 
> That will complicate things. Ill keep it in mind before i go hacking away.



There's no need to hack anything away to do this D-Board fix. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to unscew the board, disconnect the wires connected, and place the board in "service" position. The hard part is the proper soldering job needed w/o messing up any traces, etc., and then keeping your fingers crossed that this was/is in fact the problem.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/16621686
> 
> 
> There's no need to hack anything away to do this D-Board fix. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to unscew the board, disconnect the wires connected, and place the board in "service" position. The hard part is the proper soldering job needed w/o messing up any traces, etc., and then keeping your fingers crossed that this was/is in fact the problem.



My main concern is accidentally touching something and i end up getting electrocuted. Thats all. Id like to touch the least amount of wires and boards as possible.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SomeDouche* /forum/post/16623437
> 
> 
> My main concern is accidentally touching something and i end up getting electrocuted. Thats all. Id like to touch the least amount of wires and boards as possible.



Yes, I know exactly what you mean, and being a total newb at TV repair getting electrocuted was first & foremost on my mind. I totally unplugged the TV from any power source for about a day, and it was fine. I got really comfortable w/handling the board and wires, etc. As I said, that really turned out to be the easy part. Just take your time. A friend came over to checkout what I was doing, and I had to laugh at him for being such a scarety cat when I asked him to hold a part of the Board. I think most people are afraid of being electrocuted. The time I gave the TV to drain the power from any capacitors, etc was more than enough.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/16624251
> 
> 
> Yes, I know exactly what you mean, and being a total newb at TV repair getting electrocuted was first & foremost on my mind. I totally unplugged the TV from any power source for about a day, and it was fine. I got really comfortable w/handling the board and wires, etc. As I said, that really turned out to be the easy part. Just take your time. A friend came over to checkout what I was doing, and I had to laugh at him for being such a scarety cat when I asked him to hold a part of the Board. I think most people are afraid of being electrocuted. The time I gave the TV to drain the power from any capacitors, etc was more than enough.



Mine has been unplugged since saturday. I hope its plenty of time.


----------



## jdre

Yes, it is. You shouldn't have to mess with the Red high voltage lead, it has enough slack.


----------



## mech_1971

I got the 7 blinks on my xbr910,read this(mcz3001dbx2) and went at it..took 1hr and 1 helper,Powered up and the static picture was beautiful.I was very meticulous during the soldering process(soldering virgin).I used the vacuum pump..it worked awesome when the board is sideways.Thank you every1


----------



## jdre

Enjoy and Congratulations







The newer Sonys are doing the blinks now. I'm watching Craigslist


----------



## florida288

Here is the saga of my beloved KD-34XBR960: Had it since late 2004, everything perfect till recently. A few months ago I picked up its remote among a pile of envelopes while tidying up, squeezing it in my hand for about a minute before I realized I was pressing on some of its buttons. The result was that the sound worked but no picture. I tried pushing different buttons to see if I could undo whatever I had done--no luck. I did all the unplugging (even over night) and resetting to no avail. A tech savvy friend suggested unplugging both the tv and the cable box to which it is connected and disconnecting the coax cable as well as removing the batteries from both the respective remotes and leaving it like that for 24 hrs. Bingo! Everything back to normal.


That was episode #1.


Now I'm in episode #2, as follows:


About 2 weeks ago (I live in east-coastal Central Florida) during the week+ of nonstop rain storms (and floods), I awoke to see clocks blinking, indicating that there had been a power outage during the night, no doubt from an electric storm. The TV was blinking 6/7 times and wouldn't come on. The first time I hit the power button I got the bwonk, the normal blinking, then the 6/7 repeating blinks. If I tried turning it off and on again, no bwonk, unless I waited a while. Then it would bwonk, blink.


So I tried all the usual stuff--unplug, replug-no good; reset-no good; unplug over night, replug-no good; unplug everything and remove remote batteries, wait 24 hrs, replug-no good. So I started searching online for help and found this great forum. Only problem is I've never soldered, etc. Semi-helpless female here. Maybe my tech savvy friend can--he's restoring a '61 or '62 Corvette, including electrical stuff. But being a lazy procrastinator, about a week ago I just disconnected everything again and removed batteries, and left it all in disgust.


About 8 months ago I had moved (well, had 2 strong yard guys move) it from my family room to my bedroom, having decided I wanted larger screen tvs in both places. I got a 50" Panasonic plasma for the family room, and the 19" LCD in the bedroom was too small--I had to crawl to the foot of the bed to read anything on it--now it's on my desk next to the computer monitor. When I moved the XBR960 to the bedroom I completely forgot about needing another surge suppressor. Yesterday I got myself 2 kickass Tripp-Lite ones (after consulting this forum, of course), including multiple coax cable and phone connections for the plasma since I also have DirectTV there for NFL Sunday Ticket so I can watch my Bronco games and MLB Extra Innings for the Rockies (lived in Denver for 30 yrs. till 2001), and just the added coax connection for the bedroom, just cable there.


Soooo.......when I connected everything with the lovely new surge suppressor in the bedroom..........lo and behold, the 960 came on. I was afraid to turn it off. Left it on all day. When I was ready to go to sleep I debated whether I should risk turning it off. Figured I can't leave it on forever, so I might as well find out now. So I turned it off, waited a minute, prayed, and turned it back on. It came on, so I turned it off and went to sleep full of joy that I had my 960 working again.


Damn! When I got up this morning it wouldn't come on, back to 6/7 blinks.































Well, so everything is disconnected etc. again. I guess I should wait a few days to try it again. Argh! This time if it works, I don't care if it's stupid, but I'm definitely NEVER turning it off again!!! Uh-oh, I just thought, what if there's a power outage. Hmm, gunna hafta get battery backup. Yup.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *florida288* /forum/post/16640254
> 
> 
> Here is the saga of my beloved KD-34XBR960: Had it since late 2004, everything perfect till recently. A few months ago I picked up its remote among a pile of envelopes while tidying up, squeezing it in my hand for about a minute before I realized I was pressing on some of its buttons. The result was that the sound worked but no picture. I tried pushing different buttons to see if I could undo whatever I had done--no luck. I did all the unplugging (even over night) and resetting to no avail. A tech savvy friend suggested unplugging both the tv and the cable box to which it is connected and disconnecting the coax cable as well as removing the batteries from both the respective remotes and leaving it like that for 24 hrs. Bingo! Everything back to normal.
> 
> 
> That was episode #1.
> 
> 
> Now I'm in episode #2, as follows:
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks ago (I live in east-coastal Central Florida) during the week+ of nonstop rain storms (and floods), I awoke to see clocks blinking, indicating that there had been a power outage during the night, no doubt from an electric storm. The TV was blinking 6/7 times and wouldn't come on. The first time I hit the power button I got the bwonk, the normal blinking, then the 6/7 repeating blinks. If I tried turning it off and on again, no bwonk, unless I waited a while. Then it would bwonk, blink.
> 
> 
> So I tried all the usual stuff--unplug, replug-no good; reset-no good; unplug over night, replug-no good; unplug everything and remove remote batteries, wait 24 hrs, replug-no good. So I started searching online for help and found this great forum. Only problem is I've never soldered, etc. Semi-helpless female here. Maybe my tech savvy friend can--he's restoring a '61 or '62 Corvette, including electrical stuff. But being a lazy procrastinator, about a week ago I just disconnected everything again and removed batteries, and left it all in disgust.
> 
> 
> About 8 months ago I had moved (well, had 2 strong yard guys move) it from my family room to my bedroom, having decided I wanted larger screen tvs in both places. I got a 50" Panasonic plasma for the family room, and the 19" LCD in the bedroom was too small--I had to crawl to the foot of the bed to read anything on it--now it's on my desk next to the computer monitor. When I moved the XBR960 to the bedroom I completely forgot about needing another surge suppressor. Yesterday I got myself 2 kickass Tripp-Lite ones (after consulting this forum, of course), including multiple coax cable and phone connections for the plasma since I also have DirectTV there for NFL Sunday Ticket so I can watch my Bronco games and MLB Extra Innings for the Rockies (lived in Denver for 30 yrs. till 2001), and just the added coax connection for the bedroom, just cable there.
> 
> 
> Soooo.......when I connected everything with the lovely new surge suppressor in the bedroom..........lo and behold, the 960 came on. I was afraid to turn it off. Left it on all day. When I was ready to go to sleep I debated whether I should risk turning it off. Figured I can't leave it on forever, so I might as well find out now. So I turned it off, waited a minute, prayed, and turned it back on. It came on, so I turned it off and went to sleep full of joy that I had my 960 working again.
> 
> 
> Damn! When I got up this morning it wouldn't come on, back to 6/7 blinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, so everything is disconnected etc. again. I guess I should wait a few days to try it again. Argh! This time if it works, I don't care if it's stupid, but I'm definitely NEVER turning it off again!!! Uh-oh, I just thought, what if there's a power outage. Hmm, gunna hafta get battery backup. Yup.



I know this thread is long, but if you read through it you'll see that you've just described the classic Sony 6-7 Blink problem. Many people have experienced exactly the same thing or a slight variation. If you're lucky, this problem can be fixed relatively easy by replacing the 2 IC Chips mentioned throughout the thread, and your tech savy boyfriend or yourself should have no problem doing the repair. If not, then time to call the Sony Service Tech. Most likely, the problem is in the D-Board, but maybe more knowledgeable members here can put forth an opinion.


----------



## SomeDouche

Long story guys, but end result, my 34XBR910 works!!!!


I got the TV for free from a couple moving back to central california and wanted the tv gone. They said it had trouble starting up and was quoted a few hundred to fix it via a repair man, saying it was the power wire. I knew from this thread that id be needing to replace the 2 chips on the D-Board. So i went and picked up the tv from the third floor of a apartment building in downtown la. When i brought it to my brothers garage, i quickly plugged it in and the set just kept blinking, so i unplugged it and let it sit there till i got the replacement chips.


Ive been posting on this thread, reading this thread and various threads on other forums and really been collecting as much info as possible. My main concerns were getting myself killed while in the process of this. So with my plans set, i ordered the chips (bought from ebay, 4 shipped for 30 bucks), ad then waited till they showed up to buy the rest of the stuff. The chips showed up friday, and saturday morning i went to frys and got a really nice soldering iron thats temp adjustable (20 bucks), solder, solder sucker (this thing needed WAY better instructions, i still do not know how it finally started working, but man this tool is EVERYTHING!!) and some solder wick.


They didnt have the chip puller or 18-pin sockets there, and i forgot to buy a magnifying glass there as well. So off to radio shack, or should i say radio shack(s), where i went store to store looking for the 18-pin sockets. Finally found them 15 miles away, got the magnifying glass, but still no chip puller in any store. I had some nice needle nose pliers, so i decided to try my best with those.


I get to my brothers place, and my little cousin (15 years old) was there and he wanted to help me on the project, so i welcomed the support. We took the tv off of the stand, put it on the ground, laid a towel down and put the tv face down on the ground. From there, we unscrewed the rear cover, then the cover for the a/v cover, some wires, and i was at the point where i needed to put the board into service position. This was really frustrating. Nothing we tried worked. Eventually we just pulled with a good force and it finally came free. Also, the insides were FILTHY, had to use canned air to get it nice and clean. At this point, i still wanted to pull the d-board out and solder it that way, till i saw what was involved. You guys are kidding me. I just broke the bracket under the chip in 2 milliseconds and had full access to the soldering points.


At this point, the toughest thing was just figuring out how to use the solder sucker. Literally, this thing kicked our butt for 20+ min strait. Once we got it figured out, i put some solder on each point till it melted the old solder and then sucked out everything. Once that was done, i made sure to triple and quadruple check which way the chips go on (the indentation goes towards the blue motherboard on the side), and then attached the chips to the sockets, then popped the sockets in. Once i saw it was a good fit, we pushed the sockets in all the way and then soldered away. This is where the magnifying glass came in super handy, as we went through each point one by one and made sure nothing was touching each other and that there was a good soldering point per pin. After it was all done, we put it all back together, and plugged it in. WE HAD PICTURE!! But...


The volume was stuck to max, you could reduce it, but it would just go back up. The TV power button also wouldnt work. Also, the tv would turn on as soon as you plugged it in. I pulled the plug and searched AVS and not a single person has this issue, so i just looked over all the connections and realized that perhaps the board didnt sit in properly after being in service position. We laid the tv flat on its face again, pulled the board and put it back in more carefully. After that, perfection! TV didnt turn on automatically and volume button functioned fine. It is at this point i plug in a xbox 360 and we get 1080i from the component! Picture is gorgeous.. But....


NO SOUND! No matter what setting on the 360 or tv, no sound. Tried both component ports, and still no sound. Now, the cables i used for the 360 were from ebay and had never been tested before. I know the 360 works as i use it on my 42" LCD using VGA, so perhaps it is just the cable. I am going back there tomorrow with another 360 + lots more cables and will figure it out then. Im hoping its just a dud cable since the video is seriously PERFECT. Looked so freakin glorious. So utterly happy with it. So, thats my adventure. Will update once i find out whats up with the sound.


----------



## amy28262

THANK YOU FOR THIS THREAD AND WEBSITE!!! Our KV-32HS510 started the 6 or 7 blink thing 2 weeks ago and wouldn't power on. We were quoted $300+ to fix it. I read this thread (and re-read and re-read and re-read parts of it!) and ordered 4 chips and 4 sockets from TSM (wanted to have extras if needed). Neither DH nor I have ever soldered in our lives! So we bought the 15-watt solder iron at Radio Shack along with desoldering braid and solder material. We took apart an old toy and practiced a little. Soldering is cool!







When we were confident, we took the back off the tv and tipped it on its face. We decided to do the IC 6501 first and see what happened before taking a chance on removing the board or trying to access the other IC. We used the desoldering braid and tweezers to get the old chip out. We decided to not use the socket because we thought that might be one more variable should the fix not work. It was kind of hard to place the new chip in. The legs wouldn't line up correctly. DH tried it from the soldering side though (the side where the legs come out eventually) and realized we needed to push the legs in slightly. Did that and then the chip slid in without issue. Soldered. Checked our work. Tipped the set back upright. Said a prayer! Plugged it in and listened to it degause. Then it came on!!!!!! Serious HAPPY DANCING over here!


THANK YOU THANK YOU to the knowledgeable posters here and to everyone who shared their experiences!


And now we're praying we don't have to eventually replace the other chip, but at least we'll have the extras and we'll know what we're doing next time if needed! Any storage tips on how to keep the extra chips and sockets safe from dust, etc should we need them? Is a ziploc baggie ok?


Edit to add: We initially had color issues at all 4 corners. But we turned the set on/off a few times as per a post somewhere on here, and the degausing took care of it.


----------



## jdre

somedouche: Glad to hear it's running! Did you try the Speaker on/off in the Audio menu? Also, check the speaker wiring. When the volume was up was it blasting away?


amy28262: Enjoy! I have the same set, fixed last October and still going. Keep the chips in their container they were shipped in, the little tubes or bags they came in are fine, and are probably antistatic material.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16652323
> 
> 
> somedouche: Glad to hear it's running! Did you try the Speaker on/off in the Audio menu? Also, check the speaker wiring. When the volume was up was it blasting away?



Well, turns out the wire for the 2 speakers + sub was disconnected! Took apart the rear cover, looked at where the speakers went wiring wise and saw it immediately. Plugged it in and bam, perfection. And man, what amazing sound quality. Dead Space sounded absolutely devastating.


So we pushed the tv back against the wall, and the tv wouldnt turn on anymore. 2 blinks and then would turn itself off. It boggled my mind! So we took the rear cover off AGAIN, checked all the plugs and they were 100%. I took out the power wire for the power cord, and plugged it back in. After that it was perfect. I turned it on/off maybe 10 times, i came back to it an hour later and it was still turning on/off perfectly, and i even came back 2 hours after that and it still turned on perfectly. Weird. Anyhow, im now in the super fun club that is the Super Fine Pitch CRT Tube HDTV owners club and im lovin it. Thanks to everyone in this thread for their help!!


----------



## florida288




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/16641523
> 
> 
> I know this thread is long, but if you read through it you'll see that you've just described the classic Sony 6-7 Blink problem. Many people have experienced exactly the same thing or a slight variation. If you're lucky, this problem can be fixed relatively easy by replacing the 2 IC Chips mentioned throughout the thread, and your tech savy boyfriend or yourself should have no problem doing the repair. If not, then time to call the Sony Service Tech. Most likely, the problem is in the D-Board, but maybe more knowledgeable members here can put forth an opinion.



Actually, when I first discovered this forum/this thread, I spent about 2 days reading from the beginning, especially reading and re-reading the post with the great pictures, till I got the gist of it then skimmed and skipped to the end, conflicted between eager to try it and fear that since I'd never soldered I might make it even worse.


Yesterday I decided to at least take the back off and have a look, maybe even try taking some of the steps up to the unsoldering/soldering point. And I'm encouraged by Amy's success with soldering without experience. And I have some old computer boards to practice on.


Also someone here (on the getting a used 960 thread) mentioned there being tons of cat hair inside his. My female cat used to sit/lie on top till I moved it to the bedroom, now not (I think because my male cat wants me all to himself in the bedroom and has chased her out at times. Although, oddly enough, I got a female long-haired chihuahua puppy last year, and he snuggles on the bed with her and me.) So I'm figuring there's got to be a good bit of cat hair in there, and I can at least vacuum that out.


Just getting to the back wasn't easy. I have the very heavy tv on a very heavy long dresser. So I figured I'd just swivel one end out from the wall. To do that I sat on the floor at one end with my feet on the wall and grabbed the back and pushed with my feet till I could get behind and push with my back against it. Ok, but then I couldn't even get the screws to budge, but I'm gunna try again today with greater determination. Once I was back there though I noticed that part of the back was cracked, across the vent vanes on top toward the front where it goes from horizontal-ish to vertical, probably from a large (fat) cat jumping up there repeatedly for 4 yrs.


I don't know if this is significant or not. As to the 6 or 7 blinks, if I remember correctly, it blinks 6 times when I first attempt to turn it on, but then changes to 7 blinks if I then turn it off and on again. I would verify that now, but I don't want to plug it in now and then have to wait till tomorrow to try to remove the back


I'll report any progress if any.


----------



## ay221

Well, I had replace both chips and it worked for a while, then yesterday when I tried to turn it on, it did the same thing it was doing before. Except this was not gradual, where turning it on a second time would work. Also the heat trick didn't seem to work either. Wonder if I had bought defective chips or if something else went bad.


----------



## brentnall11

I purchased a KV-34xbr800 from a goodwill and someone has already attempted to repair it. Almost all of the connectors were unplugged and the IC8002 has already been removed. I already have 2 MCZ3001DB's on the way and I am getting 2 18 pin sockets from Radio Shack. I have read the forum several times and looked at all the pics, but I need lots of pics of the boards. I can't figure out where everything plugs in. The manuals just don't help me. I need to see it in pictures.

Thanks in advanced.


----------



## SomeDouche

Just a quick update. Went to my brothers place, plugged in the 910 and fired up flawlessly.


----------



## jdre

*brentnall11*: I will look, I may have some photos in my (misbehaving) PC at home (check here Friday evening!)

*somedouche*: Congratulations on your completed XBR910 repair! I want SFP..


----------



## brentnall11

Thanks jdre for looking. And while I'm posting...

I've soldered in a socket from Radio Shack in the missing IC8002 space. It went a lot better than I thought it would. I haven't soldered since I tried to modify my PS2 about 5-6 years ago. It didn't go well.







Now I'm just waiting on the MCZ3001DB's to get in and for some pics (or video could be better so I can follow all the wires) so I can put all the connectors back in place.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brentnall11* /forum/post/16676582
> 
> 
> I purchased a KV-34xbr800 from a goodwill and someone has already attempted to repair it. Almost all of the connectors were unplugged and the IC8002 has already been removed. I already have 2 MCZ3001DB's on the way and I am getting 2 18 pin sockets from Radio Shack. I have read the forum several times and looked at all the pics, but I need lots of pics of the boards. I can't figure out where everything plugs in. The manuals just don't help me. I need to see it in pictures.
> 
> Thanks in advanced.



He must have slipped one by them, because I'm pretty sure Goodwil only takes _working_ electronics. Kind of irritates me when people dump their trash on charities.


----------



## brentnall11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/16681877
> 
> 
> He must have slipped one by them, because I'm pretty sure Goodwil only takes _working_ electronics. Kind of irritates me when people dump their trash on charities.



I thought they had to be working too!! I also thought I was getting a good deal but instead was sold a lemon. They won't take it back so I decided even if it takes all summer, I'll work on it when I can.


----------



## munsell6

I had the 6/7 blinking light with my 34hs420 two years ago, had the d board repaired by a repair shop. TV has worked good since but this week I again got the blinking light. This time however I will turn the tv on a second time with the power switch and it does come on. I've ordered 3 of the mcz3001db chips just in case it dies but won,t do anything if it does not get any worse than having to turn tv on twice to get it to fire up.


ps: this happens with the remote control also



Thx, Michael


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *munsell6* /forum/post/16682572
> 
> 
> I had the 6/7 blinking light with my 34hs420 two years ago, had the d board repaired by a repair shop. TV has worked good since but this week I again got the blinking light. This time however I will turn the tv on a second time with the power switch and it does come on. I've ordered 3 of the mcz3001db chips just in case it dies but won,t do anything if it does not get any worse than having to turn tv on twice to get it to fire up.
> 
> 
> ps: this happens with the remote control also
> 
> 
> 
> Thx, Michael



Michael,


It's not uncommon for the multiple power cycle trick to stop working over time. So be prepared for that development. If you have some upcoming program that you really want to watch you might even consider leaving the TV on continuously for a bit. I actually left my KV-36XBR400 on continously for days as the multiple power cycle technique required more and more power cycles.


----------



## munsell6

Would the fix for this most likely be in replacing the three MCZ chips


Thanks again, Michael


----------



## brentnall11

 Attachment 145784 

I can't find this wire at all. Where does the other end of this wire connect?
Attachment 145785 

And where is this white and yellow wire going? If you look closely in the picture there is a plug right at the tip of the arrow below the wire. Does the white and yellow wire not plug in here? The connectors fit.


P.S. Thanks jdre for the pic. It's from an earlier post.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *munsell6* /forum/post/16682868
> 
> 
> Would the fix for this most likely be in replacing the three MCZ chips
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Michael



Michael,


Failed or failing MCZ3001D ICs are often the cause of Sony power up problems. I would replace the two D-Board ICs before worrying about the A-Board IC. More often than not the problem is on the D-Board. (In fact, I'm not sure that I've read a single report where the problem was determined to be with the A-Board MCZ3001D.)


Also, it might be that your particular model Sony doesn't even have an A-Board MCZ3001D. Not every Sony model does.


Bob


----------



## munsell6

Bob, Thanks for advice looks like I'll get a soldering iron and practice a bit so I will be ready when the set won't turn on any more


Thanks, Michael


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brentnall11* /forum/post/16676582
> 
> 
> I purchased a KV-34xbr800 from a goodwill and someone has already attempted to repair it. Almost all of the connectors were unplugged and the IC8002 has already been removed. I already have 2 MCZ3001DB's on the way and I am getting 2 18 pin sockets from Radio Shack. I have read the forum several times and looked at all the pics, but I need lots of pics of the boards. I can't figure out where everything plugs in. The manuals just don't help me. I need to see it in pictures.
> 
> Thanks in advanced.



Sorry for the repost:

Brentnall11: I will send you all of my 34xbr800 images.

-Dave


----------



## brentnall11

Update: I got the new MCZ3001DB in the IC8002 spot but I can't test the TV because the 9-pin wire from here:
Attachment 145878 

to here:
Attachment 145879 

Does anyone know where I can get one? Or can I solder 9 individual wires to the pins?

Thanks,

Brent


P.S. Thanks again jdre for the pic.


----------



## jdre

Brentnall 11: I will look at my TV for the plug and at my parts lists tomorrow (Sun). I never got the other photos up, reformatting XP was a job..Do you still need them?


----------



## brentnall11

I don't think I will need the photos, because this Attachment 145883 was the one connector I couldn't find a wire for and I just found this connector. Attachment 145884 They are both 9-pins so I guess I am just missing the wire.

Thanks for looking jdre.


----------



## florida288

My tech savvy friend Jim (btw it's an 84 not 62 or 63 corvette he's restoring, now working on the Bose amplifier) will help me try to fix it. He suggested first checking the fuse. I got the back off, but it's really hard to see the fuse. I think I was looking at the right thing. He said it's like the old car fuses. I could kind of see it just beyond and below the power cord-in spot. But the end is what you see, can't see it from above or from behind. I got a dental mirror, but still couldn't see it well enough to tell if it was blown. I didn't think anything at all would turn on if blown, but Jim said it's possible, not likely, but possible to be not completely blown.


In reading the service manual posted by Mark G. concerning 6 or 7 blinks, I get the impression that it blinks 6 times when first turned on because it blinks the number of times related to the first fault. The 6 blink fault trips the 7 blink fault, so that when you turn it off then on again there's just the 7 blink fault. I don't remember exactly what each is, read it last week. Something like 6 is power fault, 7 is picture, but it made sense when I read it.


----------



## jdre

brentnall11: I will look and see if there is a wire part number (Sony), those 2 locations do NOT connect.


----------



## Mark Goetz

Just to kinda jump in to say....

Sometimes there could be connectors with nothing connected to them. Why? Because it could be for different features that model doesn't have or for test points. But, wait and see what jdre comes up with before connecting them. Could do more damage if connected to wrong spot. Or get the schematic and look (with the understanding that schematics can be very difficult to follow), but DON'T connect anything your are NOT sure of.











PS: congratulations to all the successful repairs and good luck to fixes in the process.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brentnall11* /forum/post/16692016
> 
> 
> I don't think I will need the photos, because this Attachment 145883 was the one connector I couldn't find a wire for and I just found this connector. Attachment 145884 They are both 9-pins so I guess I am just missing the wire.
> 
> Thanks for looking jdre.



OK, I went and checked the schematic on those connectors. the one on the D-board (should be labeled CN5509) goes to W-board (labeled CN9100).

I hope this helps. I searched everywhere in the manuel for a part number for the wire jumper you say you don't have







Can't find it


----------



## brentnall11

Thanks Mark and jdre for looking. According to Mark those points do connect. So I guess I really need to find out the part #. I have everything ready to go. I'm getting excited/nervous to see if it will work.

Thanks again,

Brent


P.S. If anyone knows the part #, please let me know.


----------



## timlevin

I am new to this, but, my 5 year old baby (34XBR960) won't wake up, and I would appreciate any suggestions.


I get two blinks of the Standby LED, but they do not repeat (in fact, the two blinks will not occur again unless I unplug the set and plug it in again). There is no evidence of life on the screen, and no response to volume control, no sound at all other than the power on/off clunk and click. Interestingly, the Memory Stick LED lights up when I insert a memory stick.


This appears to be "off the chart," of the standard, repeating self-diagnostic codes. I guess I am looking for how to get a diagnosis started.


Thanks,


-Tim


----------



## brentnall11

I think I found the part for the 9-pin connectors from the W-board to the D-board over at partstore.com, http://www.partstore.com/Part/Sony/S...33211/New.aspx . But, the wire is sold out. I found the wire in-stock at nexttronics.com. I've never heard of them. Are they ok to order from?


----------



## timlevin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timlevin* /forum/post/16703687
> 
> 
> I am new to this, but, my 5 year old baby (34XBR960) won't wake up, and I would appreciate any suggestions.
> 
> 
> I get two blinks of the Standby LED, but they do not repeat (in fact, the two blinks will not occur again unless I unplug the set and plug it in again). There is no evidence of life on the screen, and no response to volume control, no sound at all other than the power on/off clunk and click. Interestingly, the Memory Stick LED lights up when I insert a memory stick.
> 
> 
> This appears to be "off the chart," of the standard, repeating self-diagnostic codes. I guess I am looking for how to get a diagnosis started.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Tim



Perhaps I am in the wrong forum or thread?


In any case, two more pieces of information about this problem are that:

1.) the F501 fuse on the AZ board is still good, and

2.) I discovered that just before the screen stopped working, someone splashed some cola on the side of the chassis, right above the Qbox. Not much got in there, but there are a few "water marks" on the tiop of the Qbox and thereabouts.


Does that help?


Any ideas would be appreciated.


-Tim


----------



## jdre

*timlevin*: I would say check your IC6501 voltages and IC8002 voltages as a start, my set (34HS510) had Hum, click, 3 blinks non-repeating when IC6501 was not properly installed and a board trace to IC 8002 was cut as well by previous repairer. You will *need* service manual, see Sony schematics, free . Hope that Qbox is not harmed, inspect for cola.


----------



## SomeDouche

I had a 360 plugged into the front panel via s-video (dont ask, just needed to make sure it worked), and i played on it for about an hour or so, and then the TV turned itself off automatically! Not only that, it started blinking 7 lights. Talk about getting pissed off!!!


I unplugged the tv then plugged it back in, nothing. This entire time ive been using the power button on the front panel. I used the remote and then it turned on immediately and worked fine the entire time. I even turned it off again after an hour, and turned it back on with the front panel power button and it worked fine. Is there something i need to check?


----------



## jdre

Did you socket the chips? If so, maybe they need to be seated better. Bad new IC can happen. My sets will get confused sometimes with power on off cycling, but leave no lights blinking..yet.


----------



## jdre

*brentnall11*: I think that part is the socket you have already in the boards, can't hurt to order and see what you get. I tried looking in my service manual, they left those wire harnesses out of the manual, so convenient. Maybe a PC IDE cable or just some thin wires attached one by one will work (remove sockets from boards, put wire in holes) if you can verify each wire is going where it needs to.


----------



## SomeDouche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16723095
> 
> 
> Did you socket the chips? If so, maybe they need to be seated better. Bad new IC can happen. My sets will get confused sometimes with power on off cycling, but leave no lights blinking..yet.



I did socket them. Time to find a chip puller and re-seat them. Where is a B&M store i can purchase a chip puller from? Frys and Microcenter both don't have them, and neither did any radio shack i went to.


----------



## brentnall11

Well I ordered the part anyways. If it's not the wire then I will get some good wire and solder them in myself. I can tell which wire goes where by looking on the bottom of both of the boards. Thanks again jdre.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SomeDouche* /forum/post/16723222
> 
> 
> I did socket them. Time to find a chip puller and re-seat them. Where is a B&M store i can purchase a chip puller from? Frys and Microcenter both don't have them, and neither did any radio shack i went to.



You might be able to find a chip puller as part of an inexpensive electronics tool set at Fry's. It might not be available as a standalone item.


----------



## jdre

*somedouche*: Just push down on them firmly, if they are level and don't budge, they are in there. Push on each end of the chip.

*brentnall11*: I hope it is the part you need. If you need to hard wire the connections, it won't be too hard to verify circuits against the schematic, then enjoy some HDTV!


----------



## timlevin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16723037
> 
> *timlevin*: I would say check your IC6501 voltages and IC8002 voltages as a start, my set (34HS510) had Hum, click, 3 blinks non-repeating when IC6501 was not properly installed and a board trace to IC 8002 was cut as well by previous repairer. You will *need* service manual, see [...]Sony schematics, free. Hope that Qbox is not harmed, inspect for cola.


*JDRE*: Thanks! I will check this out and let you know what happens. -Tim


----------



## brentnall11

I have two new MCZ3001DB's in both the IC8002 and IC6501 spots. I have soldered in wires in the missing cable spots and now I am getting 5 blinks, pause, 5 blinks, pause, 5 blinks, etc. They are consistent, never changing the # of blinks (I read somewhere that's important). So what could be wrong if I'm getting 5 blinks?


Edit: I didn't have one of the harnesses plugged in. So now I plug it in and it comes on for about 2-3 seconds and then goes off and now it blinks 7 times!!!

What could be the problem now?


----------



## brentnall11

Since the T.V. still isn't working. I made sure all the wires were plugged in all the way and if there was any more missing wires. I think all the wires on the D-board are good but then I found this:
Attachment 146531 It's on the A-board and it has 5-pins.

Does any one know if something plugs into it and if it does, where is the other end?


Edit: I also found this on the A-board:
Attachment 146537 

Are these 2 points (they are just standard metal tabs) supposed to be connected? One point is on the A-board and the other is on the DVI port. You can see right beside the 2 points that there is 2 black wires with a grey thing on it going to the two other points right beside the points I'm asking about. If they do connect, do you think it would be ok to connect any kind of wire to them? (sorry if that's confusing)


I have also found another point:
Attachment 146538 

It looks just like the other points. Does it need to be connected and if so, where is the other end and can I use any wire to connect them?


----------



## jdre

*brentnall11*: I took a look at my set. All of those points are *normal*, no wires needed! Do the 7 blinks repeat? With schematic and ohm meter, I'd check your new wiring is accurate, and that each pin on the MCZ chips are connected to the traces. If you used sockets, make sure the chips are seated and the 4 black D board hinge connectors are all seated on the D board side (they are stiff and snap down). The good news is you are moving forward, by getting the set to do something different!


----------



## brentnall11

*jdre:* I'm not sure what hinges you are talking about. But, I tilted it on it's face and checked everything and it all looks good. I stood it back up and now it won't even do anything, like it's not even plugged in!!!! I checked the fuse next to power cord. Is there another fuse or anything else I could check??!!


----------



## jdre

There must be something loose, also check the front edge of the board is fit into the cabinet, the control buttons and remote sensor can be too far back and won't work. These are the hinge connectors, the black things that join the D board to the A board. one is right above the heatsink in the photo. They are open in the picture:


----------



## Mark Goetz

OK these r the connections (please be sure you see the CN # on the board... for I am kinda guessing looking at the pics u r using).

This is pretty much the way it is shown on the schematic.


----------



## Mark Goetz

BUT.....................


I am going to open mine tonight and take pics for you. I have the exact same model as you


----------



## Mark Goetz

OK! I can't load pics to this computer yet









But did see that the 5 pin connector on the A-board you point out in the 1 pic and the ground connections are NOT connected to anything.


Sorry for any miss information I gave earlier, I will be editing that...


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16724996
> 
> 
> You might be able to find a chip puller as part of an inexpensive electronics tool set at Fry's. It might not be available as a standalone item.



Here the kit I got at Radio Shack

p/n 276-1581


can't remember what i paid, but it is called IC Inserter & Extractor Set.


----------



## florida288

Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.


It seems that when things go wrong, they come in multiples. The rest isn't about the TV, but I'm looking for pity, and any advice anyone may have. My aforementioned son came over to see how I was faring due to the fact that my air conditioning went out on Friday. I live in Florida just south of Daytona Beach, so the heat/humidity this time of year is brutal. The repair people told me I have leaks in both the air handler in the garage coils and in the outdoor heat pump coils, $3000 to replace, they say they can't be repaired. Btw, does anyone here know if that is so? It's a Trane 5-ton 11 SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) split system heat pump new when I had this house built in 2002. I think when you're a woman alone, you get skewered by some tradespeople. My husband passed away in 02 while the house was being built.


I don't have the $3K now to replace the coils. They said the leaks appear to be slow ones, so I had them recharge with Freon, 14lbs (but they only charged me for 9lbs) @$42 plus about $165 to come out and defrost, total $524. The next day I got up and it had all leaked out again. Luckily I had 3 window AC units in the garage, 5K, 6K, and 12K BTU's. I couldn't handle the 12 myself, so my son set it up for me, so now at least it's comfortable while I sort out what to do next.


It's a VA mortgage, so the builder had to give us a 10-yr warranty. I checked it, but it says it covers leaks in refrigerant "lines" not coils. I found out the lines are the lines between the outdoor and indoor units.


Since the R22 refrigerant, freon, is being phased out, I'm thinking it would be wise to replace the system with an R410A refrigerant, puron, system. If you get it this or next year, you get a $1500 tax credit on complying systems, minimum 15 SEER for split system heat pumps. Only snag, the repair people said that to keep my house as cool as I like it, 71-72, I need a 5-ton system...they said... (they quoted $9800), and the tax credit only applies on up to 4 tons, or at least not to 5 tons, or no one makes a complying system over 4 tons...they said. I talked to my brother-in-law who lives down the street in a same size house, ~2700 sf, and he's having his guy call me, who quoted him $6000 after $765 in rebates, incl. 10yr parts and labor, for a Carrier 55K BTU (I calculate that to be about 4.6 tons, 12K BTU=1 ton) 16 SEER system that qualifies for the tax credit. And that includes replacing the water damaged base for the air handler. And I believe there is some special financing available to do the system upgrade.


It's always something of course--more pity please.


My garage door opener isn't working, and a friend said not to fool with it cause the spring thingy can kill you or go through the roof. And a few days ago a diamond earring went down the bathtub drain. There's a trap that catches stuff like that, isn't there. Gotta call the plumber.


Oh yeah, one other thing, the concrete slab foundation settling has caused a crack across the front porch, front hall tile, back patio and a little way up the back outside wall zigzagging between the concrete blocks. I checked that home warranty last year for foundation damage, but the cracks have to be 1/8in, and they're not. But in looking for the AC coverage I discovered coverage for concrete slab cracks that rupture the finish flooring material. So that's good.


----------



## jdre

The XBR960 may work for a while, my similar set did for a 2 months until it started failing again. Then, it will need the chips.


The garage door's big coil springs fail with a bang, and the door won't open, that is common, not more than a couple hundred to fix that on my house (2 car garage door). Take a look above the door, the spring around the shaft will be obviously broken if that is the problem. Some doors are different.


Did they check the air filter/air cleaner? My sister's was clogged from the prior owner, that could freeze up the coils. The salt air may corrode the outdoor condenser coils, it doesn't seem old enough for the indoor coils to fail, although in Florida A/C is used *much* more than here (NY state) and your use of it might be like 20+ years use for us up here. One of my neighbors has a 35 year old system. If your old 55,000 btu system was just cool enough, less may not work for you, unless maybe the air circulation is greater. System design assumes 78 degrees, too hot for me, and if it's truly hot (85-90) here, my 18,000 btu system is inadequate, although "correct", house at 78.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *florida288* /forum/post/16750840
> 
> 
> Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.
> 
> 
> It seems that when things go wrong, they come in multiples. The rest isn't about the TV, but I'm looking for pity, and any advice anyone may have.......



Florida288,


Here's a link to an excellent "Heating and Air Conditioning" forum where you may get some additional help:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/hvac/ 


Here's a general Home Repair forum:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/repair/ 


Regarding your 34XBR960, you might just want to check your local Craigslist.org ads as you might be able to find a comparable model for $300 or less. The resale market has really collapsed for large CRTs and you can sometimes find some excellent deals. (I bought a KV-36XBR800 and the custom Sony stand for $180.) Sometimes people even just give them away to get rid of them.


I tried the "never turn it off" method with my KV-36XBR400 and that worked for about two weeks until the remote control power button was pressed by mistake. That's when I installed the MCZ3001D ICs to repair it.


Good luck with everything!


Bob


----------



## g1bradsher

i have a kv*36hs510 is it the same chips


----------



## florida288

jdre,


It was my yard guy, who does some other stuff like pressure washing and gutter cleaning, whom I asked to look at the garage door and who warned my about the big coil spring. That was a couple of months ago, and because I'm a lazy procrastinator I hadn't called anyone yet to fix it and have been leaving my car out on the driveway. When the AC repair guys came, they pulled up the door, and I could see that it in no way involves that spring, so now at least I'm putting my car in the garage out of the hot sun.


It's been so long I forgot exactly what was wrong with the opener, so I just went out and took a look. The bolts that attach the opener arm to the door had ripped out, which I assume is an easy fix. The reason he cautioned me about the spring is that the approx. foot-long 2 by 4 to which the spring/shaft plate is bolted with 2 bolts, one above the other, is no longer perfectly horizontal, left side up a bit. The 2 by 4 is bolted to the concrete block outer wall with one large bolt in the middle, with the spring /shaft attachment about 2 inches to the right, which to me seems an obvious error. Seems to me the 2 by 4 should have been attached with 2 bolts, one on each side of the spring attachment. The upper of the 2 bolts on the spring/shaft plate is a bit dislodged, and there appears to be a slight crack in the 2 by 4 from its bolt to the lower of the 2 spring/shaft bolts. At any rate, I've got my regular handyman coming tomorrow to look at it and also to open the bathtub drain for my earring.


The first thing I checked was the AC filter. There's an indicator on the thermostat to change the filter. It didn't say to change it, but I did anyway, and it made no difference. I usually change it about every 2 months, before it says to. I'm sure this humid somewhat-salty air is what killed the coils prematurely. The "indoor" unit/coils are actually in the garage, which is just as hot and humid as outside. I'm about a mile from the beach, but that's probably close enough. I use AC about 6 months of the year and heat about 2 month.


My experience with AC when I lived in Denver, Virginia, New Jersey was that I could never get it quite as cool as I like it, so when I had this house custom built I let the builder know that I want to be way cool. I went for upgraded insulation, double-glazed windows, attic fan, ceiling fans in every room, and a big brute of an AC system. On the hottest days I could make it as cool as about 68, which I only did on a few occasions when I was doing sweaty work. I think I could have gone even lower but never tried. That's the present 5-ton system with the leaky coils. The 55K BTU (4.6-ton) system is the one that my brother-in-law Joe told me about, and the salesman is coming tomorrow. I'll verify with him that I can at least get down to 71 on the hottest days. I'm getting an estimate from 1 for sure and maybe 2 other Carrier authorized dealers. I'm leaning toward Carrier because they invented puron and the first puron systems years before anyone else had them, 1996. And in reading the info on their website, I see that they also use what they call ArmorCoat, which is a tin plating on the copper coils to prevent corrosion, especially for high humidity and coastal areas.


Another great thing--when Joe got his estimate it must have been at least a few months ago. At that time Carrier had a $125 rebate on that system. They now have an up-to $1325 rebate on their top of the line system. They have 4 levels from low to high--Base, Comfort, Performance and Infinity. Comfort heat pump with a Performance air handler was what Joe was quoted on. I'm thinking about the Infinity; it's 19 SEER and it's a 2-stage compressor; all the others are 1-stage. It'll cost more up front, but will reduce energy consumption and lower the cost for the long run. Almost all are Scroll compressors, which means it works in a circular rather than an up and down piston action. I'm learning so much. The other $640 of the rebate I mentioned previously is from Fl. Power & Light, which may also be higher on the higher priced system, probably a percentage.



Bob,


Thanks for the links to gardenweb.


I may have a good chance of not pressing the remote control power button since I have cable, so I use the cable remote. I would have to first press TV then Power, which, God knows, could happen, but at least it's one extra step of protection. I'm keeping the actual TV remote where I hopefully won't accidentally press anything. I just have to be sure that when the 4 & 5 yr old grandsons are here I keep the remotes out of harm's way. Last year they moved nearby from Colo. and stayed with me for a couple of weeks till they got their own place. The 4 yr old is a very busy boy. Lots of things broken. Who would think he'd go in the garage and throw a ball and break the flourescent light bulb? Of course, who would have thought that when my son, his father, was in Montessori school he'd get a girl's lips "caught" in the pliers?


I hope that when they install the new HVAC system they don't have to shut off all the power. Probably just those circuits. I'm also tempted to get the Carrier generator I saw on their website (having experienced 4-5 days of no power--no AC, spoiled food--during a few hurricanes). If I get that, I bet they have to shut it all off. Hmmm.


Oh well, thank you both for the helpful info.


Kathy R.


----------



## brentnall11

Well thanks for looking Mark Goetz and jdre. I have the missing wire harness soldered in correctly, but the TV still will not turn on, not even blink. There has to be a fuse or something that is blown. Everything is plugged in. I felt like I was so close. The TV was coming on for a few seconds. Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong??


----------



## florida288

Well no danger of having to shut off the power to the TV to install a generator. For one powerful enough to run ac, fridg, microwave and 1 TV it's about $10,000.


Update on garage door and earring. Handyman got the earring out of drain and fixed door, adjusting and adding 2 extra bolts on the 2 by 4 and charged me only $32.50.


----------



## SomeDouche

My nightmare for my 34xbr910 is over. I took the D-Board out completely (a lot easier once you get used to the tv setup). I then re-soldered everything 100% (i had a bunch of holes in the solder, guess i didnt do as good of a job as i thought i did).


I then turned on the TV and everything was insanely blurry. I adjusted the focus and man it looks spectacular. Tv turns on/off perfectly, picture looks great, and 0 issues. Thanks again for the help everyone. Best free tv ever.


----------



## jdre

somedouche: Congratulations on ending the nightmare the right way! Enjoy!


florida288: I think a 2 stage system is a good idea, if you have humidity with less heat at night, can be less chilly and stay running and dehumidify. That's the type I want to get next, trouble is it's too cool here in NY to run it at all! 65 and damp, love the jet stream..I figure the high capacity will run in daytime on the 90 degree days we aren't getting!


----------



## florida288

jdre: turns out the 2 stage doesn't qualify for the tax credit, one of it's specs is off. According to energystar.gov, has to be 16 SEER, 13EER for regular AC, 15 SEER, 12.5 EER, and 8.5 HSPF (heating seasonal performance factor) for heat pumps. When Joe's guy, who was going to come yesterday, called me from the er, cause he broke his foot, to reschedule for today, I asked him about the Infinity (the 2 stage). I think it was the HSPF he said was off, but I'll find out today for sure. I don't understand cause the Carrier website says it's 9.5 HSPF, and 14.1 EER, 19 SEER.


I had another guy come yesterday also. Gave me a price on same system that's $200 higher, but with $110 larger rebate.


I'll need to finance it and found out that I can add it to the streamline VA mortgage rate reduction (from 6% to 4.5% 30 yr) refinance I'm about to do anyway. Normally a non-vet surviving spouse can't get cash out when doing that, but can for energy efficient improvements.


----------



## jdre

Hopefully, the HSPF will be appropriate. I think you are getting back in charge of your property! Back on topic, is the Sony still on? Happy 4th to all at AVS forum!


----------



## florida288

Sony's still going strong, thanks


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brentnall11* /forum/post/16758763
> 
> 
> Well thanks for looking Mark Goetz and jdre. I have the missing wire harness soldered in correctly, but the TV still will not turn on, not even blink. There has to be a fuse or something that is blown. Everything is plugged in. I felt like I was so close. The TV was coming on for a few seconds. Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong??



OK! Just so we get this straight......

What exactly does it do? Sounds, blinks from standby light, etc...


It sounds like possibly something else was disconnected or tweaked out of range and maybe damaged beyond repair










Thanks

And congrats to the successful repair SomeDouche


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *florida288* /forum/post/16750840
> 
> 
> Well, here's the latest on my 34XBR960: Yesterday the older of my 2 sons came over. I was demonstrating for him, after it being unplugged etc for a few days, the 6 blinks when I first turn it on, then 7 blinks if I turn it off then on again. Would you believe, when I turned it off after the 6 blinks then on again it worked. Mine not to reason why.....so I'm leaving it on ......forever.......or until some power outage......or it dies......or I accidentally hit the power button.......or trip on the power cord. I'm taking all precautions not to let the latter 2 things happen.



First I say replace the chips and if that doesn't work try something else, just leave a post on what it is doing after repair.

And I know how you feel







If it wasn't for bad luck I have no luck at all. lol


----------



## florida288

Mark, eventually I probably will have to replace the chips, but, since it'll be quite a challenge for me, I'm going to take the course of least resistance and put it off till I *have to*


----------



## pafc64

Hi Everyone

I am in Australia & after searching the internet I found this site & post about sony TVs Standby light blinking & hope you can help me as Sony help is non existent.

My TV is about 18 months old & is a Bravia KDL46XBR & about 3 weeks ago it wouldnt turn on & the red light was flashing 13 times between breaks.


----------



## BobC3

I want to say thank you to everyone that has helped me fix my sony xbr960 tv. Replacing the 2 chips fixed my tv.


I have a friend of mine that has a kv-36fs120. his tv will sometimes work and

other times, it will not turn on at all. Told him of the flash codes. He is getting a flash code of 9. What is a 9 flash code and what would it take to fix it. He is not ready to get rid of that tv yet, the tv is only 4 years old.


Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## lowjones

I am looking for part number 1-785-879-11. It is a connector for the wire that goes to the flyback. It is not available at Sony or Partstore.com. I read somewhere where a person soldered it directly to the pcb. I would like to be able to disconnect it quickly and not have to unsolder the wire. Have any of you found any kind of substitution for that disconnect?


Thanks..........


----------



## jdre

If that is the white wire to CN9009, I'd go ahead and solder it in. The CX or CH board (CRT board) unplugs from the tube and the ground wires have release tabs (squeeze) and other connectors unplug, and you can remove the D board with the CX/CH board together.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pafc64* /forum/post/16800173
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone
> 
> I am in Australia & after searching the internet I found this site & post about sony TVs Standby light blinking & hope you can help me as Sony help is non existent.
> 
> My TV is about 18 months old & is a Bravia KDL46XBR & about 3 weeks ago it wouldnt turn on & the red light was flashing 13 times between breaks.



You may want to post in the LCD section, just because this is for CRT's. Sorry don't mean to sound rude







. But you probably get a better response there.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BobC3* /forum/post/16841487
> 
> 
> I want to say thank you to everyone that has helped me fix my sony xbr960 tv. Replacing the 2 chips fixed my tv.
> 
> 
> I have a friend of mine that has a kv-36fs120. his tv will sometimes work and
> 
> other times, it will not turn on at all. Told him of the flash codes. He is getting a flash code of 9. What is a 9 flash code and what would it take to fix it. He is not ready to get rid of that tv yet, the tv is only 4 years old.
> 
> 
> Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.



Hmmmmm....

My manual does not show "9" (only shows to 7 blinks). Hopefully JDRE or someone else has your manual to look it up







. Good luck!!


BobC3... Congratulations another success







!!!!!!


----------



## jdre

Blink codes only up to 5 in the 32FS120 service manual. They will repeat if it's really a blink code. 1,2,3,4,5, pause, 1,2,3,4,5, pause.


----------



## BobC3

Oh. ok. I will have him double check again on how many flashes he has. thank you.


----------



## incognito_moe

Well I have one that went 6 flashes. I put in the 2 new chips and still get the same codes.










I checked all of the solder connections from the chip to their repective landings based on the IC information posted in this thread and I do not feel it is a soldering issue.


I broke down and ordered a new D board from partstore.com but word to the wise... THEY ARE RIPOFF ARTISTS! During checkout the nailed me for a 40 dollar oversized box charge. I also selected next day air shipping only to find out that it will ship next day air "whenever they bother" to ship it- even though their site claimed it was in stock......BUYER BEWARE!!!


One question I have is this....How long should the stinger be out of the largest wire from the FBT? I am afraid that this may have broken short on me when I gave it the healthy pull to remove the D board for soldering.


Thanks in advance and I will post the results of the new board install as soon as they grace me with its presence.....


moe


----------



## jdre

Do you mean the Red wire that goes to CRT?


----------



## jjb220




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *incognito_moe* /forum/post/16865742
> 
> 
> Well I have one that went 6 flashes. I put in the 2 new chips and still get the same codes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked all of the solder connections from the chip to their repective landings based on the IC information posted in this thread and I do not feel it is a soldering issue.
> 
> 
> I broke down and ordered a new D board from partstore.com but word to the wise... THEY ARE RIPOFF ARTISTS! During checkout the nailed me for a 40 dollar oversized box charge. I also selected next day air shipping only to find out that it will ship next day air "whenever they bother" to ship it- even though their site claimed it was in stock......BUYER BEWARE!!!
> 
> 
> One question I have is this....How long should the stinger be out of the largest wire from the FBT? I am afraid that this may have broken short on me when I gave it the healthy pull to remove the D board for soldering.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and I will post the results of the new board install as soon as they grace me with its presence.....
> 
> 
> moe



It should only be 1/4 inch long of bare wire. If you are talking about the anode lead to the picture tube.


----------



## jjb220

Im looking for some info on what to look for on a 34XBR960. The tv turns on, no blinking light and no picture, sound only. I dont see the 6 volts to light the tube on the CRT board and im not sure how far to go with it or if its a simple fix. Any suggestions? Thanks, John


----------



## jdre

If you don't already have it the schematic is here: Sony schematics . CN5003 H1 is the heater supply from the DZ board. IC5006, D5014,R5095,R5096,T5001 are parts that supply heater. Does the TV have high voltage (hear the static?). If not, could be bad IC8002 MCZ3001DB, or check for bad (open) R8051 to R8056 which are all in series to Pin 1 IC8002.


----------



## lowjones

I own a KD34XBR960. I really love the TV. After reading numerous posts on this and another site I decided to make the attempt of replacing the dreaded MCZ chips. My system had the six and seven blinks when you powered on the set. I never did get a picture. It seemed that if the set was left of for days then it would turn on just once. I took out the DZ board and brought to a TV repair shop in Crystal Lake, IL. He charged me $40 to remove and solder 2 sockets I provided, that I got from Radio Shack for $0.48. He did a great job. I ordered the chips from Tristatemodule.com for $5.99. I installed the both chips. (a real pain) The TV is working great. I appreciate the help from the posts I read. I was ready to buy a new TV, but for 60 or 70 dollars I have my set back. Thanks. I would have never tackled the problem, but the posts on this thread were definitely a great help. All I can say if you decide to do this is take your TIME, and if you are not sure about something ask before you do it.


I have really gotten a lot help and tips from various forums on this site.


THANKS AGAIN, (too many to name)

Lowjones


----------



## btwrigh

I like many, created an account here just to say thanks to everyone for the great information. My 32HS500 stopped working, had 6 and 7 lights and I really dreaded hauling the 200 lb tv to the trash and didn't want to give up on it. I first found the Agoraquest board where I saw some of the same discussion from some of the same members and then found this one and was amazed how many people had fixed their tv using this method and how many good tips there were about the precedure. Well with the knowledge aquired from both I bought two chips and two sockets off ebay(2x $5 + $4 ship for $14 total) got out the soldering station and replaced IC8002 first and that fixed it. I did not remove the Dboard. I turned the TV on its face. I used solder wick to remove the old component. I used a socket, I made sure the chip fit the socket before I soldered the socket in(all tips I got from this thread). Then the TV turned back on and it worked. I couldn't have done it without the information I found on these boards. Thanks so much. Its sad to think how many of these tvs are in the landfills with such an easy solution but there are FAR LESS because of these threads. Thanks to everyone who posted information and special thanks to Robert/Bob F and Mark Goetz. If you have the 6 or 7 light problem, go for it. You don't have much to loose.










Bryan from Oklahoma


----------



## florida288

Today the inevitable happened--thunder storm--brief power outage--back to square one. I've got everything unplugged and batteries out and will wait a few days and see if I get lucky again. I'm thinking perhaps a backup battery to prevent it turning off during a brief outage.


If/when I end up having to replace the chips, help is on the way. My younger son John, who had been in school in Colo, is moving back here in a couple of weeks. Can't find a job and has been costing me about $2000/mo for a few years. He just finished at the Colo School of Trades, got assoc. degree in applied science in gunsmithing. He's done soldering and unsoldering, so he'll do it. Hooray!


----------



## florida288

jjb220-


Had the same thing happen a few months ago. On the advice of a friend, I unplugged both my tv and cable box and removed the batteries from both of the remotes and waited 24 hrs. Then it worked.


----------



## incognito_moe

Well, after getting no response from Parts Store on the board.....(Next Day air order STILL did not show up for a week when they said it was in stock) O picked up an used 40XBR800 instead.


I got it all hooked up and now there are 3 places (2 on the right and 1 on the left)on the side of the screen with a green ghost effect. It this in the shape of a half moon and about 5" from top to bottom and kicks out into the screen about 1 inch. The issue on the left overlaps each other making the problem about 8" overall.


I have played with the configuration and this does not change the effect at all.


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


moe


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *incognito_moe* /forum/post/16931759
> 
> 
> Well, after getting no response from Parts Store on the board.....(Next Day air order STILL did not show up for a week when they said it was in stock) O picked up an used 40XBR800 instead.
> 
> 
> I got it all hooked up and now there are 3 places (2 on the right and 1 on the left)on the side of the screen with a green ghost effect. It this in the shape of a half moon and about 5" from top to bottom and kicks out into the screen about 1 inch. The issue on the left overlaps each other making the problem about 8" overall.
> 
> 
> I have played with the configuration and this does not change the effect at all.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> moe



The KV-40XBR800 sets can be plagued by green areas or blobs. That may be what's going on with your TV.


Run a google search for "KV-40XBR800" and "Blob" or "Glob".


Here's one example:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....11351&forum=34 


There is apparently a repair kit available to Sony technicians that includes additional magnets to place behind the tube. But even this doesn't always work.


Good luck.


----------



## jdre

*incognito moe:* Try just using the set a few days, it may improve (degauss). I had to add small magnets to the existing magnets in my Sony 34" to eliminate some discoloration. Try http://www.ptscorp.com/television.html or http://www.tristatemodule.com/ for D board. You may have to call PTS in person, or sign up for their site.


----------



## howyahangin

Thanks for this forum. It has given me the courage to become part of the elite group who have recovered from the Sony 6/7 flash problem.

Just a couple of quick questions. What do I avoid or method do I take to avoid getting fried while attempting this repair besides unplugging the unit.

I have a Sony KV-34xbr910. Is the MCZ3001DB the correct replacement chip? Is there any other item that may be particular to a 34xbr910. Thanks


----------



## bubba607

i have sony tv that has the six and seven lights blinking on it and i have ordered the ics to fix it. but when it does come on after it has been on for about eight hours it will turn off byitself.when i replace the ics will this fix that problem.ty for any help


----------



## incognito_moe

JDRE


Do you mind talking me thru the process of adding magnets to mine?


moe


----------



## jdre

*incognito_moe* I did it by trial and error. I could show you what magnets affected my TV's color purity. You will need the small disc magnets sold at Radio Shack or some magnets from used Sonicare type toothbrushes.


----------



## Th0r

Greetings AVS forum!!

Long time, no see..


I have a KV-34HS510 and this morning it decided to go into the 7 blink deal. No 6 blinks then 7; no intermittent coming on-- just 7-pause-7- etc. BTW, the TV was on this morning... and at some point it just lost picture, and started the standby blink when we were out of the room.



I've been reading this thread all day, and it sounds like I know what I need to do... and with the info here, I feel pretty comfortable with doing it myself (especially considering the success stories).


Interestingly, when I clicked on an image in this thread this morning, this site said I needed an account to view the image. I was surprised to see that my browser prefilled a username and password for me. I had totally forgotten that I had signed up as a member back in 2003 when I was deciding on which HDTV to get, and I believe the info I got back then convinced me to get the Sony. So thanx-- it's been a fantastic television for the past 6 years.


Hopefully when I replace the IC's it'll be back to it's old self.


I notice on the TSM page, my model is *NOT* in the list of models for which the DB chip is a replacement. I find that very curious, but it seems that the DB is the way to go regardless of TV model.


Most of the soldering I've done has been on pipes/copper tubing







, but I plan on getting some extra parts and practicing the (de)soldering a bit before doing the final chip replacements.


Thanx to this thread I **won't** be:

1) buying ICs from ebay

2) cutting any plastic to get at the board

3) lying the TV on its face

4) soldering upside down











I'll post back when I get my parts and let the thread know how it goes.

*Edit:* Was getting ready to purchase from Tri-State Module.


SUBTOTAL $14.18


SHIPPING $39.88


SALES TAX $0.00


TOTAL $54.06


Can this be correct? 40 dollars to ship a $14 order?!?


----------



## jdre

If it's next day air. Check for regular priority mail option. I used the IC sockets when I did my 34HS510. Solder braid and a 30 watt iron should do it. Can't press too hard on the board traces, they can get torn away. Hope it works well!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Th0r* /forum/post/16971651
> 
> 
> Greetings AVS forum!!
> 
> Long time, no see..
> 
> 
> I have a KV-34HS510 and this morning it decided to go into the 7 blink deal. No 6 blinks then 7; no intermittent coming on-- just 7-pause-7- etc. BTW, the TV was on this morning... and at some point it just lost picture, and started the standby blink when we were out of the room.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading this thread all day, and it sounds like I know what I need to do... and with the info here, I feel pretty comfortable with doing it myself (especially considering the success stories).
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I clicked on an image in this thread this morning, this site said I needed an account to view the image. I was surprised to see that my browser prefilled a username and password for me. I had totally forgotten that I had signed up as a member back in 2003 when I was deciding on which HDTV to get, and I believe the info I got back then convinced me to get the Sony. So thanx-- it's been a fantastic television for the past 6 years.
> 
> 
> Hopefully when I replace the IC's it'll be back to it's old self.
> 
> 
> I notice on the TSM page, my model is *NOT* in the list of models for which the DB chip is a replacement. I find that very curious, but it seems that the DB is the way to go regardless of TV model.
> 
> 
> Most of the soldering I've done has been on pipes/copper tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I plan on getting some extra parts and practicing the (de)soldering a bit before doing the final chip replacements.
> 
> 
> Thanx to this thread I **won't** be:
> 
> 1) buying ICs from ebay
> 
> 2) cutting any plastic to get at the board
> 
> 3) lying the TV on its face
> 
> 4) soldering upside down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post back when I get my parts and let the thread know how it goes.
> 
> *Edit:* Was getting ready to purchase from Tri-State Module.
> 
> 
> SUBTOTAL $14.18
> 
> 
> SHIPPING $39.88
> 
> 
> SALES TAX $0.00
> 
> 
> TOTAL $54.06
> 
> 
> Can this be correct? 40 dollars to ship a $14 order?!?



Best of luck with your repair.


And you can buy quality MCZ3001D ICs on eBay. Just be sure to check the seller's feedback. The two MCZ3001D ICs that I used were purchased on ebay and they've been working perfectly for about three years now.


And the $40 shipping charge from TSM must be a mistake.


----------



## howyahangin

I did not see my model KV-34XBR910 on the TSM web site either.


I finally replaced my 7 light blinking 200lb set with a Panasonic 42" XBR. Looks nice!


I am still thinking of ATTEMPTING a repair but I wanted a confirmation if MCZ3001DB the correct replacement chip?


Any help appreciated!


----------



## Th0r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16972898
> 
> 
> If it's next day air. Check for regular priority mail option. I used the IC sockets when I did my 34HS510. Solder braid and a 30 watt iron should do it. Can't press too hard on the board traces, they can get torn away. Hope it works well!



Thanks for the reply... there was no place to choose a shipping method during checkout. I've e-mailed them and I will call them today.

*Edit:* I found the shipping choice... Jeez, I hope I'm more observant during the actual repair! 



> Quote:
> And you can buy quality MCZ3001D ICs on eBay. Just be sure to check the seller's feedback. The two MCZ3001D ICs that I used were purchased on ebay and they've been working perfectly for about three years now.



Thanks Bob... Yes, I'm sure there are good chips on ebay, but it just seems that there have been some repairs that have been unsuccessful, and I figure I'd rather do what I can to eliminate questionable parts from the equation.


BTW, Bob, your experience/information has been a HUGE help in my research into this problem. Thanx again!


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *howyahangin* /forum/post/16933936
> 
> 
> Thanks for this forum. It has given me the courage to become part of the elite group who have recovered from the Sony 6/7 flash problem.
> 
> Just a couple of quick questions. What do I avoid or method do I take to avoid getting fried while attempting this repair besides unplugging the unit.
> 
> I have a Sony KV-34xbr910. Is the MCZ3001DB the correct replacement chip? Is there any other item that may be particular to a 34xbr910. Thanks



No, I would say not really since you don't have to mess with the high voltage CRT wire (the heavy red wire going to the back of the picture tube, "towards the top/middle of the tube"). The insulation on the wire itself should be enough that you don't get shocked if you happen to touch it. But, if you want to be a little more cautious then I suggest leaving it unplugged for a day before opening it up to do the repair.

It is always possible that something else is the problem and not the MCZ3001D chip(s). This is by no means a "sure thing" fix. But, most have reported it is. So it is, a could be or not be fixed with the chip replacements. All I and anyone here can say is.... Good Luck, and hope it fixes it







. If it doesn't! then you are out just a few dollars instead of hundreds







.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba607* /forum/post/16944318
> 
> 
> i have sony tv that has the six and seven lights blinking on it and i have ordered the ics to fix it. but when it does come on after it has been on for about eight hours it will turn off byitself.when i replace the ics will this fix that problem.ty for any help



Haven't heard that before!?! hmmmmm Do you have the sleep/alarm timer on? Unless something else is bad and is overheating causing the TV to shut off!?!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *howyahangin* /forum/post/16973954
> 
> 
> I did not see my model KV-34XBR910 on the TSM web site either.
> 
> 
> I finally replaced my 7 light blinking 200lb set with a Panasonic 42" XBR. Looks nice!
> 
> 
> I am still thinking of ATTEMPTING a repair but I wanted a confirmation if MCZ3001DB the correct replacement chip?
> 
> 
> Any help appreciated!



First off, LOL. Panasonic makes an XBR model??? just kiddin', I say it's a type-O....?


Are you searching for chips by TV model? I am not sure they list it that way? I just looked for the MCZ3001D and came up with the DB variant.


Yes! Those are the correct replacements for the MCZ3001D (DB is replacement for the ever failing D chips). Although others have said you can buy good MCZ3001D chips, so I guess it may just have to have been manufactured after a certain date...I would just go with the MCZ3001DB.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/16973312
> 
> 
> 
> And the $40 shipping charge from TSM must be a mistake.




YEAH! I didn't pay that much for the 2 I bought from TSM. around 22 bucks. 2nd day shipment. If I remember correctly. I know I was in a rush for them cause its my only TV and can't just go out and buy another TV, considering I am very picky when it comes to A/V equipment, I want the BEST and nothin else will do(period).


----------



## mathmanfox

i just completed the repair of my KV-34xbr800. it had the dreaded 7 bliinks of the stand by light. BIG THANKS to everyone that shared their story, especially eclipsedave for the pics.


i bought all of the usual tools from radio shack as well as a small board to practice on. 2 sockets and 2 IC's from TSM. after an hour of practice i was able to take on the task. i replaced IC8002 first to check if it was the faulty one like eclipsedave. sure enough it was... no need to cut plastic! i now have an extra IC for future use. total cost: $40.


one more great TV saved from the landfill. one more success story. if you're experiencing the same problem, go for it!


----------



## bubba607

i have replaced both ics 8002 and 6501 and wanted to let everyone know thanks to this forum my tv is working great. ty very much.


----------



## Th0r

Thanks to str8pathsony's great pics and video:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1146629 


...I have my D board pulled and vertical waiting on parts.


Wow those ICs are a lot smaller than they look in pictures []

Glad I got some parts coming to practice on... still haven't decided on whether I'll put sockets in or not. We shall see...


----------



## jdre

*howyahangin* The MCZ3001DB is correct for the 34HS510. I have those in mine right now. Sony sells the DB parts as replacements. Which Panasonic plasma did you get?

*Bubba607* Congratulations!


----------



## Th0r

I was all set to report another successful repair.. but it was short-lived. =(


Replaced both ICs (used sockets).

I took the D board out to do the repair- leaving only the FBT connected, and stood the board up to do the (de)soldering.

After putting everything back together, the TV came on fine.


Was in the process of reconfiguring my preferences (renaming channels, etc), when the picture zoomed to a blur (?) and TV went back into standby. 7 blinks again. This was after maybe ten minutes of normal operation.


Now it will come on briefly, but after a minute or less, the picture wavers, then zooms to a blur and goes back into standby.


Almost seems like it's not degaussing properly?


I'm re-reading this thread again for the third time, but I don't remember anyone else reporting this particular problem.



------------------------

Edit: Let it sit for a while... turned it back on.. it's fine for almost ten minutes, then same as above.

Seems like a heat issue somewhere, perhaps?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Th0r* /forum/post/17005703
> 
> 
> I was all set to report another successful repair.. but it was short-lived. =(
> 
> 
> Replaced both ICs (used sockets).
> 
> I took the D board out to do the repair- leaving only the FBT connected, and stood the board up to do the (de)soldering.
> 
> After putting everything back together, the TV came on fine.
> 
> 
> Was in the process of reconfiguring my preferences (renaming channels, etc), when the picture zoomed to a blur (?) and TV went back into standby. 7 blinks again. This was after maybe ten minutes of normal operation.
> 
> 
> Now it will come on briefly, but after a minute or less, the picture wavers, then zooms to a blur and goes back into standby.
> 
> 
> Almost seems like it's not degaussing properly?
> 
> 
> I'm re-reading this thread again for the third time, but I don't remember anyone else reporting this particular problem.
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> Edit: Let it sit for a while... turned it back on.. it's fine for almost ten minutes, then same as above.
> 
> Seems like a heat issue somewhere, perhaps?



Perhaps you have a bad connection somewhere. you might want to disconnect and reconnect everything that you undid for the repair. If that doesn't work you migt want to retouch all of your new solder connections.


Make sure your ICs are firmly seated in the sockets.


Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those out with the ones you just installed.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## jdre

Do you hear the "bwoomp" sound when this happens? If not , it's not the degauss. Do you get any diagonal lines in the picture, and is it white or one color before it quits?


----------



## jrossp49er




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17011671
> 
> 
> Do you hear the "bwoomp" sound when this happens? If not , it's not the degauss. Do you get any diagonal lines in the picture, and is it white or one color before it quits?



I need help, I have a 34XBR970, I get the bwoomp sound when the screen cuts on with horizontal white lines that are somewhat hour glass shaped, on a light gray screen. Then the screen goes white and the TV cuts off. The standby light flashes 6 times, until I try to hit the power button. After I hit the power button it flashes 3 times.


Any help is appreciated. I am not technically inclined and am contimplating calling in for service, or ditching the TV entirely.


----------



## jdre

*jrossp49er:* Your problem sounds a lot like one I helped someone solve in March. Read Page 17 and 19 of this topic, *raduilipig* is the poster. That may be your problem, if so, it's got a fix.


----------



## timlevin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16723037
> 
> *timlevin*: I would say check your IC6501 voltages and IC8002 voltages as a start, my set (34HS510) had Hum, click, 3 blinks non-repeating when IC6501 was not properly installed and a board trace to IC 8002 was cut as well by previous repairer. You will *need* service manual, see Sony schematics, free . Hope that Qbox is not harmed, inspect for cola.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timlevin* /forum/post/16703687
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I get two blinks of the Standby LED, but they do not repeat (in fact, the two blinks will not occur again unless I unplug the set and plug it in again). There is no evidence of life on the screen, and no response to volume control, no sound at all other than the power on/off clunk and click. Interestingly, the Memory Stick LED lights up when I insert a memory stick.
> 
> ...



I recognized the limits of my abilities and had the local shop fix this. It turned out to be "a bad capacitor on the main board," which I assume is AZ.

JDRE, thank you for your advice and the link to the service manual.


-Tim


----------



## jdre

*timlevin:* You're welcome! Hope it keeps working well.


----------



## rcll

Amazing thread, tons of great information.


I also have a Sony with 6 blinks, but the D board layout is a bit different than all the XBR800 pics I've seen in the thread.


Its an XBR400, the two ICs are not parallel to each other like on the XBR800, but a bit skewed and further apart. Here is what it looks like:












Also IC6501 is almost impossible to pull without removing the D board, there are tall U-shaped metal parts on the component side blocking access to that IC from any angle other than directly above it.


The TV is laid down on its face. I'd like to do the repair with the D board in place and keep all the connectors hooked up. I've left the set unplugged for a day or two. There is no problem with leaving all the connectors hooked up while desoldering/soldering ICs right?


If I can get away with just replacing IC8002 it would be great, I've already cut the plastic away for access to IC6501 in case that one is the bad IC.



My main question is about desoldering, I'm a novice at this. Is it safe to use the Radio Shack desoldering tool for this repair? Its 45W and I've read it could overheat and damage the board.









I bought a small board and a few IC sockets to practice with, soldered/desoldered/soldered them a bunch of times now. I've found the 45W desoldering tool does an amazingly clean job at desoldering, I try to keep the tip on the pad for less than a second and it still manages to reflow the solder and suck it out very cleanly. Is this tool safe to use on the Sony D board if used quickly?


I've tried the desoldering braid but it seems not to work nearly as well.


Any tips would be great, thanks!


----------



## jrossp49er




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17016804
> 
> *jrossp49er:* Your problem sounds a lot like one I helped someone solve in March. Read Page 17 and 19 of this topic, *raduilipig* is the poster. That may be your problem, if so, it's got a fix.



Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I am not technically inclined at all, any idea how much this is going to cost me for someone to fix? I am looking at repair vs. replace right now.


JP


----------



## jdre

I would *guess* about 100-150. How long was the labor warranty? Parts were about 40 bucks for raduilpigs's repair. A new plasma TV is about 800 up for Panasonic. New stuff is nice, but I have found the CRT picture stands up to them.


----------



## jdre

*rcll*: I'd say yes, if the tip fits the pins on the board, without knocking off the tiny resistors and capacitors nearby. Use a smaller wattage solder iron to install the new parts. You will need braid as well, if you have some pins that won't suck out. The key is don't damage the board, and put the ICs in the same position (take note of which way the notch goes before removing them). Good luck with your repair, I'm hoping to hear it's successful.


----------



## jrossp49er




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17024514
> 
> 
> I would *guess* about 100-150. How long was the labor warranty? Parts were about 40 bucks for raduilpigs's repair. A new plasma TV is about 800 up for Panasonic. New stuff is nice, but I have found the CRT picture stands up to them.



I agree, jdre. I love my Sony's picture and dont want to give it up, but I didnt know if I would be looking at $500 + in repairs when I could replace it for $800. My warranty was 2 years, and I have owned it for 2 and a half years, go figure. I am going to try the repair route.


Can you describe raduilpig's issue in layman's terms, so when I am talking to the repair guy I can explain it properly? I have read this entire thread, and am a little confused when it comes to his issue.


Thanks again,


JP


----------



## jdre

Best way would be show the techs a picture of it failing, if you have a digital camera. "After a few seconds,the picture turns white with angled lines and the TV shuts off and Standby light blinks 6 times" "Standby Blinks 3 times if I try turning it on. If I wait it will do this again later."


----------



## jrossp49er

jdre, thanks, just didnt know if there was anything technical that I could tell them. I am taking it this morning, hope all goes well.


Thanks again.


JP


----------



## vadude54

I have a 5 year old KV34HS510 which started acting up with the 7 blink problem about 10 days ago. At first it was intermittent but now I haven't been able to get it to turn on the past 3 days. After reading this entire forum I am going to attempt the 2 IC replacement. I have ordered from TSM 2 IC's and 2 sockets for total of $18.03. I have had some experience replacing IC's from my old job from which I am now retired. I will let you guys know how I make out when the parts come in. Thanks to all who have given tips on here.


----------



## jeff.a

I just completed the repair on my Sony KV34XBR800.


After 7 years in use, the standby light began to blink 6 or 7 times when attempting to turn the TV on. Same problem as most others on this forum. I should mention that in my case, I think this was caused by my 1 year old son, quite often, standing in front of the TV and powering the TV on, then off, then on, then off again, numerous times every day or so.... My guess is the power surge of turning the TV on then off caused the issue.??.


I ordered 2 Shindengen MCZ3001DB circuits from here:

richtechparts dot com/search.html?sfield=&search=MCZ3001DB

(I'm in Canada, so are they, and they had next day shipping)


I picked up 2 18 pin machined sockets from a local electronics supplier here:

www dot sayal dot com/ActionIndexP.asp?ID=171458


I first tried replacing the IC8002 chip, as it was more accessible, and no need to cut the plastic piece out. Luckily that was the problem with my TV, now I have a socket in place in case it happens again, and then the IC replacement will be plug and play!


Initially had big problems getting the solder off the pins, but after we got the hang of leaving the soldering iron on the solder, and at the same time suction off the liquid solder, it worked like a charm. With the help of a circuit puller tool, the defective circuit was pulled off the board without any issues.


Special thanks goes out to eclipsedave from post # 108 ( www dot avsforum dot com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13803925#post13803925 ) for his step by step and his photos. The photos were a huge help, and I am not sure I would have had the guts to do this repair without them.

Thanks also to Mark Goetz, for starting this thread, bringing the issue to light, and doing the initial research for all of us.


I didn't even want to think about lugging the beast of a TV out to a repair shop, or even paying the money I can imagine it would cost to have such a simple repair done!


Another extremely happy owner of a fixed Sony XBR TV! (My wife is happy too!)


----------



## jrossp49er

Just an update, took it to a local shop yesterday and they replaced the CRT card. Not sure what that means exactly and also hooked up an electron gun to rejuvinate the tube, again no clue as to what that means. $200 later (which I am fine with, $300 was my reservation price) it's alive, ITS ALIVE!!!


Got her hooked back up last night and she is working like a champ.


One other question, occassionally there is a small yellow spot on the far right of the screen, particularily on an all white screen, what causes this, and is there something I can do to fix it? It has been doing it about the whole time I have owned it.


JP


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/15598126
> 
> 
> Good advice. As a repair tech, I don't even waste time doing much troubleshooting in these sets until I replace the ICs. This fixes over 90% of them.



Hi there


Based on this success rate and the low cost of parts, I attempted the replacement of IC8002 and IC6501 in a friend's KV-32HS510 that had this 6/7 blinking issue. Pulled the D board out, unsolder using a solder sucker, install the two ICs (w/o sockets), and _voila_, a working TV.


The two replacement Shindengen MCZ3001DB ICs were obtained from TSM for $16.93. Interesting that the S&H was $4.95, and the USPS Priority Mail charge was also $4.95; TSM added $0.00 for handling. Not too many mail-order outfits have no charge for handling.


Some interesting notes:


The two ICs that were removed were the updated/revised Shindengen MCZ3001DB. The date code was B04348. The original owner reports that the TV has never been repaired.

I've only read about the first 20 or so pages of this thread, and recall some posts along the lines of "there's no record of a revised MCZ3001DB failing" like the older MCZ3001D chip. Looks like the knowledge base has to be updated: here's an instance where the failing chips were MCZ3001DB.


The back of the TV indicates it's a Sony KV-32*HS510*, manufactured in Nov 2004. But the Self-Diagnosis screen reports that it's a KV-32*HV600*, and S/N 4004957 (same serial number as on the back of the set). Weird.


Regards


----------



## willjob

Just want to say thanks to everyone in this thread. I am typically a handy guy but have never worked with a circuit board or soldered anything before. Based on the help in this thread and pictures back on page 4 I successfully replaced the ic8002 chip. I had 6 blinking lights and never 7. Replaced the ic8002 first with socket and chip and tried it before replacing the other chip and it worked. No since in replacing something that isn't broken.


Thanks and God bless!


----------



## jdre

*jrossp49er:*That was very quick turnaround. They must have had the CRT board in stock. Enjoy! The yellow spot is likely just purity or landing adjustment. If you position the TV differently, it might go away. My older Sony HS510 needed a couple small magnets to correct that.

*Vadude54:*Good luck, you will probably have no trouble with the parts installation. My HS510 had damaged board from a previous attempt at repair by someone who learned to solder on it.

*jeff.a and wiilljob:* Congratulations!

*blue_z:* The 32HV600 is the same exact set, they must have just mislabeled it. The 3001DB failure shows they will last a while but could fail again.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeff.a* /forum/post/17036667
> 
> 
> Special thanks goes out to eclipsedave from post # 108 ( www dot avsforum dot com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13803925#post13803925 ) for his step by step and his photos. The photos were a huge help, and I am not sure I would have had the guts to do this repair without them.
> 
> Thanks also to Mark Goetz, for starting this thread, bringing the issue to light, and doing the initial research for all of us.



Thank You









Big "thank you" goes to *jdre* and *RobertF*, for they have been very helpful in making this thread a huge success!!!



PS: Congratulations to all the successful repairs and good luck to those still working on them.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeff.a* /forum/post/17036667
> 
> 
> I've only read about the first 20 or so pages of this thread, and recall some posts along the lines of "there's no record of a revised MCZ3001DB failing" like the older MCZ3001D chip. Looks like the knowledge base has to be updated: here's an instance where the failing chips were MCZ3001DB.



Have to say, that is the first time I heard about that?!? But, like I said before, "It can happening to the best equipment. Failures don't make it a bad product because they all get some or most their parts from outside sources". It is always possible for the replacements to fail too







. Sad, but true.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/17055310
> 
> 
> Have to say, that is the first time I heard about that?!?



Hi there


For another recent instance of MCZ3001DB chips failing, see airdave76's post in :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post17042500 


Also note that these MCZ3001DB chips were apparently installed when the set was manufactured.


I have not found/read the datasheet for either IC. But one possible reason for the revised MCZ3001DB chip is that it could be for RoHS: it might be lead free.


Regards


----------



## jdre

*Mark Goetz*: Thank you for the thank you!


----------



## vadude54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vadude54* /forum/post/17035095
> 
> 
> I have a 5 year old KV34HS510 which started acting up with the 7 blink problem about 10 days ago. At first it was intermittent but now I haven't been able to get it to turn on the past 3 days. After reading this entire forum I am going to attempt the 2 IC replacement. I have ordered from TSM 2 IC's and 2 sockets for total of $18.03. I have had some experience replacing IC's from my old job from which I am now retired. I will let you guys know how I make out when the parts come in. Thanks to all who have given tips on here.



I received my parts from TSM and was able to get the D board into the vertical position without unplugging anything. I bought the Radio Shack desoldering iron to remove the old IC's and installed the sockets using my old 30 watt iron. I plugged in the new MCZ3001DB's and I am happy to say my set came on and I am watching it right now. Thanks again everyone. The pictures and videos were very helpful.


----------



## hunter371

Well, my 34XS955 seems to have come up with some blinking light issue. I go to power it on this afternoon and while I hear the power go on, nothing shows up on the screen. No display information or nothing. I try to unplug it from the wall and power it on again, and still nothing. Every time it I get 20 blinks of the red light and nothing.


Most of the problems I've read about throughout this thread (haven't read through all 26 pages yet) seem to talk about the 6 or 7 blinking lights. Any help on this?


EDIT: It's been fixed. Nothing to see here folks.


----------



## rtmach

I just changed both chips out even with very shaky hands, my kv-36hs510 is working again. I did have one pin in which the solder didn't take too well on the top of the pin but it does have a solid feel from the solder in the hole, it looks like too much flux. In the pic it's the top chip bottom left end, that was the best pic I could get. will this last or is there a way that I can get it too take the solder on top better? I've tried a few time but no luck and I was afraid to keep heating up the chip. I have 6 sony crt's, "3" kd-34xbr970's, a kv-36hs500 and a kv27hs420. my 500 had this happen in the last month of the extended warranty so sears put in a new board ,that was 3 years ago so I will end up doing this on that one at some point. Does anyone know if my 970's and 420 have the same chips? I saw in the 970 thread someone had the 6 blink issue. I decided to use the cut method after I found the perfect tool that came with a 25 W weller solder iron I got at LOWES , it was an EXACTO knife attachment that heats up. It took just a few minutes and was like a hot knife thru butter. thanks to all who made this a fairly easy job even with shaky hands, the pic was taken before i retouched all the points that didn't look too good I also have bad eyesight.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/17074279
> 
> 
> I just changed both chips out even with very shaky hands, my kv-36hs510 is working again.....



Congratulations on your successful repair!


----------



## mph101

I have really enjoyed and learned a lot by reading this entire thread.

Having owned only Sony TV's since back around 1980 I can only say that I will not own another.

The 4 yr old Wega KV-32HS510 I have now has failed with the 6 blinks standby a few weeks ago. I have never had a Sony totally fail, and I live in lightning capital USA near Tampa. I've had some damage by weather but not because of poor workmanship. This is poor workmanship. It took me less than 30 seconds of searching the web after the failure of the TV to find the exact same problem, over and over I could find it. There was no doubt how common this problem was with 3 to 4 yr old Sony TV's. Not similar problems but exact.

On occasion the TV still fires up after being unplugged for a day or 3 and the picture & sound quality are excellent. But it makes no sense to repair this land whale as mentioned if one is dumb enough to buy a used one off Craigs List they can be had for under $200.00 locally. But I care not to move any more 180 lb TV's. There day is gone.

I was this Wega would be my main set for a few more years until technology discovers which was TV's will go. But Sony help make the choice for me.

As with my crt pc monitor this Wega will be harder to get out of my house but its going. I can't move it.

What I have discovered that was costing me a lot since the Sony failure. How much this sucker uses in electric power. That 280 watts for this hungry energy star appliance running 12 or so hours a day sucks up the kilo watt hours when placed with a cable converter box. I waste a lot of electric power, is what I discover by having this thing on so much. I discover how much heat it adds to the room to make the AC run more as well.

I have discovered that everything can be had on the web over the cable $$$$ bill. What a waste this brighthouse cable is for infomorials, and the same reruns that can be viewed online without or far fewer commercials and no DVR needed.

So I would have liked the Sony to last, I'm not wasting time fixing a model T where is the cash for clunkers on energy hog TV's???


You want a 32" Wega KV-32HS510 that blinks 6 times live in TAmpa Florida let me know, but you haul it from where it sits.


----------



## Flachster

After reading through this thread, I'm going to embark on an attempted repair of my KV32HS420.


I've ordered the Parts suggested MCZ3001DB (3)

I've acquired the 18pin IC sockets


Next step will be to actually get in there and make the repairs.

On another board, I read about a Sony Eservice bulletin which would be exceptionally helpful in making this repair--E28041743


Does anyone have access to this bulletin?


--F


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mph101* /forum/post/17081147
> 
> 
> I have really enjoyed and learned a lot by reading this entire thread.
> 
> Having owned only Sony TV's since back around 1980 I can only say that I will not own another.
> 
> The 4 yr old Wega KV-32HS510 I have now has failed with the 6 blinks standby a few weeks ago. I have never had a Sony totally fail, and I live in lightning capital USA near Tampa. I've had some damage by weather but not because of poor workmanship. This is poor workmanship. It took me less than 30 seconds of searching the web after the failure of the TV to find the exact same problem, over and over I could find it. There was no doubt how common this problem was with 3 to 4 yr old Sony TV's. Not similar problems but exact.
> 
> On occasion the TV still fires up after being unplugged for a day or 3 and the picture & sound quality are excellent. But it makes no sense to repair this land whale as mentioned if one is dumb enough to buy a used one off Craigs List they can be had for under $200.00 locally. But I care not to move any more 180 lb TV's. There day is gone.
> 
> I was this Wega would be my main set for a few more years until technology discovers which was TV's will go. But Sony help make the choice for me.
> 
> As with my crt pc monitor this Wega will be harder to get out of my house but its going. I can't move it.
> 
> What I have discovered that was costing me a lot since the Sony failure. How much this sucker uses in electric power. That 280 watts for this hungry energy star appliance running 12 or so hours a day sucks up the kilo watt hours when placed with a cable converter box. I waste a lot of electric power, is what I discover by having this thing on so much. I discover how much heat it adds to the room to make the AC run more as well.
> 
> I have discovered that everything can be had on the web over the cable $$$$ bill. What a waste this brighthouse cable is for infomorials, and the same reruns that can be viewed online without or far fewer commercials and no DVR needed.
> 
> So I would have liked the Sony to last, I'm not wasting time fixing a model T where is the cash for clunkers on energy hog TV's???
> 
> 
> You want a 32" Wega KV-32HS510 that blinks 6 times live in TAmpa Florida let me know, but you haul it from where it sits.




Well just to say that LCDs get hot too.. And the bigger screen models consume a lot of power, TOO!!! I have a 21.5" LCD monitor for my computer and even at that it gets very warm (not hot), but still for a 21.5" (draws 92 watts). Remember with the 280 watts that your TV draws, is max draw. Draws the most when 1st powered on, that is not continuous power consumption. LCDs on the other hand draw about the same from the second turned on till on for hours.

Yes! A CRT does consume more and gets hotter then a LCD (of same size). But, when you consider that most people replace their CRT with a bigger screen LCD. Are they really saving energy??

Good test for someone to dive futher into... Have an amp meter on both a CRT and LCD (same size and a larger LCD - for the porpuse I mentioned). Also, to have an temp gauge close to the top of each. And to run the test for about 8 hours or so.


Other then that...

Sorry to hear one is going to the landfill







lol


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mph101* /forum/post/17081147
> 
> 
> Having owned only Sony TV's since back around 1980 I can only say that I will not own another.
> 
> The 4 yr old Wega KV-32HS510 I have now has failed with the 6 blinks standby a few weeks ago. I have never had a Sony totally fail, and I live in lightning capital USA near Tampa. I've had some damage by weather but not because of poor workmanship. This is poor workmanship.



To this comment:

It's not poor workmanship...


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/17074279
> 
> 
> I just changed both chips out even with very shaky hands, my kv-36hs510 is working again......
> 
> thanks to all who made this a fairly easy job even with shaky hands, the pic was taken before i retouched all the points that didn't look too good I also have bad eyesight.



Congratulations!!







I know what you mean about the shaky hands, makes it harder. Even though, it is still a fairly easy repair.


----------



## Agnt86

Hey everyone,


I've got a Sony KDP-57WS655 which is blinking the standby light 9 times. Unplugging it and letting it sit brought it back from the dead a few times, but it looks like she's flatlined for good now.

This site seems to indicate it is D6116, D6301 and the switching regulator on the "G" board.


Of course, there are no diagrams/pictures, places to get the parts, or any "next step" information. Is there a guide for this repair online? Maybe some pictures? Or just someone that has done it before?


----------



## jdre

This site Schematics for free has Sony schematics, scroll down half the page and yours is there. It's a .rar file, need a download to open it. Parts sources are Partstore.com, bdent.com, mouser.com, digikey.com, and others. It might be worth searching AVS under LCD projection TVs. Good luck with your repair.


----------



## Flachster

Okay.....










My progress isn't nearly where I would want it to be.


Little background info.

1) I'm working on a KV-32HS420.


2) I've successfully removed the DZ board from the chassis (wire connections removed and pictures taken). Now placed in service position.


I've identified the suspect 6501 & 8002 chips, although they are in fact DB chips...a fact which somewhat concerned me, but after reading the previous post about the DB ones going bad on other versions...I'm concerned...but not shocked.


I'm starting to desolder the chips and I'm not having any luck at all. I've soldered and desoldered before....(mostly with other people's equipment ) but no matter what I do I can't get the iron I purchased nor the braid I purchased to work very well.

To do the desoldering I've purchased

a) 15 Watt Grounded Soldering Iron from Radio Shack (pn 64-2051)

b) Desoldering Braid also from Radio Shack (pn 64-2090)


I've successfully soldered with the iron on the board I got from Radio shack to practice with, but desoldering doesn't seem to be working. Plus, the damn braid seems too big to get close enough to the connectors to actually give me a good contact with the old solder so it doesn't sop up anything. Also, there seems to be some sort of film on the old solder...


I've read the soldering primer that has been mentioned in the past but I haven't gotten a whole lot ideas from that as of yet.


Is the iron too weak? Am I not using the braid correctly? Any other suggestions?


--F


Edited to say:

I believe the iron isn't keeping a good temperature. I'm probably going back to Radio Shack tomorrow to replace/upgrade it.

However, should I be going for the next step up iron (25-30W) or should I expect some of the same problems with it (intermittent temperature) and go for something better. The pinball solder primer stated temperature is important, not wattage, I am just wondering if people have had better results with the Radio Shack soldering irons. Plus I thought someone said that they used the 15 watt one and the braid and had no problem...


----------



## HuKk

Realizing these posts are 2 years old, hope some of you Jedi's are still on here. I have a KV36XBR400 with the curse of the 7 blinks, after poking around & finding & joining this forum, I have purchased 2 MCZ3001D's & 2 18 pin sockets to replace those on the D Board. I have my board disassembled & have located both IC's. before I start in with the R&R, just had to ask ( I was lucky enough) to stumble upon a schematic & technical training manual for these sets, & according to it, it does not reference these 2 IC's as the problem for 7 blinks??

Going with my gut, I will trust the guys that have hands on experience before I trust (my interpretation of this somewhat Greek scripture), I guess I am just wanting to double check (insecure sole that I am) that the 2 MCD300D1 IC's are the culprits or @ least the likely suspects before I bring the heat?

I might add, that from time to time of trying to turn the set on, I would occasionally get 4 blinks instead of the 7, however, 7 blinks is the usual MO. Thanks to all, for all the useful info I have already used to get this far, @ the final step & don't want to go it alone.


Thanks all!


----------



## vadude54

Flachster: I bought the 45 watt Radio Shack desoldering iron to do mine and it worked okay. I doubt if 15 watt is hot enough.


HuKk: Someone on this forum who is a TV tech said that 90% of the time that changing those 2 IC's will cure the problem with 7 blinks.


----------



## HuKk

Thanks for the quick response, going to give it a go, have the IC's already so no sense in turning back now!

Just for some info, this is an excerpt from the tech manual I was looking @;



Shutdown - Standby light blinks seven times

There are two +135V OCP monitoring circuits. The first circuit will cause

the Standby light to blink two times and the second will cause the light to

blink seven times. Both sensing and output circuits are on the D board,

but the indicating circuit is on the A board.

Circuit - The second OCP circuit monitors the current through the PWM

Output (Q5001-3) that supplies B+ voltage to the H. Output transistor

Q5030. When there is excessive current drawn by the Horizontal Output

stage, Q5018 turns OFF, permitting IC201/pin 34 to rise to a threshold of

1.2Vdc. IC201 blanks the picture to prevent a CRT line burn and sends

data to IC701/pin 30 to shut down the TV.

Normal Operating Voltages

Location At power ON Operating

IC5007/pin 8 0.07V 0V

IC5007/pin 9 3V 3V

IC5007/pin 1 2.6V 2.6V

Q214/base 5V for 5 seconds 0V

Q214 is turned on for five seconds at power ON to permit comparator

IC5007 time to stabilize.

Testing - If the Standby light blinks two or seven times, the problem is

most likely on the D board where the sensing and Horizontal Output stages

are. On the D board, if the Horizontal Output (Q5030), PWM (Q5003)

transistors, and video output ICs (C board) are good, suspect the components

in the sensing circuit (same board). The sensing parts are Q5004,

IC5007 and Q5018.

Verify that this circuit is causing the shutdown by disconnecting the H.

Output Transistor Q5030 and monitor the voltage at CN5505/pin 8 as you

power ON. If this voltage rises above 1 volt, this +135V OCP circuit is

responsible. Suspect Q214 on the A board and the following main parts

on the D board:

R5013, Q5004, IC5007, delay cap C5006, Q5018.


----------



## Flachster

Thanks vadude. I am going to go exchange it soon. Only problem concern I have is the comments about the potential of the 45 watt unit damaging the board--something mentioned in the primer and on this thread.


----------



## HuKk

well, got my new sockets & IC's in, GOOD NEWS no more 7 blinks, BAD NEWS now it blinks 5 times, anyone have any idea? I think the repair went well, de-soldering/soldering went without a hitch, double checked I have everything plugged back in.

Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## HuKk

All,

Had to post a follow up & special thanks to Mark G. & Robert F. who I think posted the thread that led me to fixing my XBR, followed your footsteps & if anyone is keeping score, HuKk 1 - landfill 0, after double checking my soldering work & finding a burnt trace, brought the heat one more time, & I am happy to say, watching it right now!

Thanks all of you, this thread was a life saver!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuKk* /forum/post/17132400
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> Had to post a follow up & special thanks to Mark G. & Robert F. who I think posted the thread that led me to fixing my XBR, followed your footsteps & if anyone is keeping score, HuKk 1 - landfill 0, after double checking my soldering work & finding a burnt trace, brought the heat one more time, & I am happy to say, watching it right now!
> 
> Thanks all of you, this thread was a life saver!!!



Congratulations on your successful repair!


Glad to help out.


Bob


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuKk* /forum/post/17126606
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, going to give it a go, have the IC's already so no sense in turning back now!
> 
> Just for some info, this is an excerpt from the tech manual I was looking @;
> 
> Q5018.



That is pretty much why we say its a faulty IC. The reason (maybe) the service manual does not mention it, is because the service manual is made to identify what part does what .ie: "blink codes" identify a particular problem area, be it a certain voltage, resistance, etc... Not to identify every possible cause for the fault. When a certain part fails, it can cause the protection circuits to believe it is something else.

But, beyond that too. Those chips porpuse is to protect the TV (other components) from overvoltages, to much current, and likewise. So, what that means that what is failing with these ICs is on an input (internal part that monitors an input. could possibly be a connection becomes burnt or somehow disconnected) and makes it seem like it is something else. Since they can not really monitor themselves (not that intelligent) it gives a false reading.

It does not hurt to replace them (for the price, and to have spares incase it happens again). It just seems that is more then likely it will be one or both of them are bad (but NOT a sure thing). Congrats!!!


PS: Mine is still working and like new. Even tho, the original replacement was 1 IC and later the other failed too. And it is still possible that the replacements could fail? But it will be a 5 min job







the next time.


Thanks


----------



## Flachster

Dare I say it? -- "Woot".


After a couple of missteps and getting my hands steady enough to solder again, I'd like to announce that it LOOKS like I've saved my KV-32HS420 from the landfill. It took me purchasing

1) the dual power 15 watt/30 watt soldering iron from Radio shack (the 15 watt one alone sucked and didn't have ANY staying power in terms of heat),

2) 40/60 rosin core from Radio shack

3) NEW tinning/cleaning compound

4) the Radio shack 18-pin sockets,

5) MC3001DB chips from MCM electronics

6) Desoldering vacuum tube (scared the crap out of me initially with the pen "snap" but worked well)

and the least useful--7) Desoldering braid (also Radio Shack). I think THIS was more useful once the chips were already de-soldered....b/c it didn't help me at all until the surface was completely flat...perhaps it was the fact the iron wasn't hot enough or didn't stay hot enough...but I always felt I was doing more damage than good with it. It worked SOMEWHAT well once the chips were out and I felt that the iron stayed hot ....otherwise...


As I mentioned earlier....I replaced existing DB chips in the TV. The TV was manufactured 5 years ago. I bought it new from Best Buy, and the bad chips inside were Shindengen MCZ3001DB BO1643 (I thought the chips were SUPPOSED to be direct from Sony). I replaced them with the new ones I ordered from MCM. Seeing Shindengen chips sorta shocked me and made me pause.


I replaced both of the bad DB chips with new ones in sockets and followed the tutorials from BobF, Eclipse Dave, and Mark Goetz, and all seems well (30 minutes and going strong).


I'm noting some "funny" things that didn't happen before including some sound issues and a weird refresh when transitioning from Normal to HD programming (these MIGHT be a factor of the new HD cable box I recently got), but the PICTURE is back, the HD picture looks great and the blinking lights are gone!


Thank you to EVERYONE who contributed to this thread and helped me save this TV from the heap. Keep your fingers crossed for the next few days!!!


--F


----------



## vadude54

Flachster and HuKk: Congrats on your successful repair.


----------



## blue_z

Hi there


> the dual power 15 watt/30 watt soldering iron from Radio shack (the 15

> watt one alone sucked and didn't have ANY staying power in terms of

> heat),


Actually a decent 15-watt iron should suffice for electronic work like IC legs. The skill factor is proper tip maintenance: the tip of the soldering iron has to be tinned and clean (not oxidized) to transfer heat to the work. A bad tip will slowly heat the work, and will get it hot but not quite hot enough to melt the solder. A good tip will only need a second or two to heat the work.


> NEW tinning/cleaning compound


Yes, good stuff to clean the tip. Also a wet sponge.


Even the best temp-controlled soldering station will work like the cheapest iron if the tip is not properly prepared.


Regards


----------



## Flachster

Blue_z,


Thanks for your response.


As I mentioned in an earlier post, I tried the 15 watt only iron for desoldering, and using the desoldering braid while doing so (even with a well tinned tip).

Unfortunately, it didn't maintain sufficient heat over time allowing me to remove the original soldering work. It did work somewhat better on soldering alone, but again, it seemed like I was waiting there forever for the tip to sufficiently provide enough heat to solder like I remember and like the primer suggested (at the base of the leg, with the rosin core solder on the other side of the leg)


During the de-soldering, perhaps it was due to the braid or some other ME-induced factors, but I felt as it I was just sitting there potentially burning the board while waiting for the iron to heat sufficiently (which it eventually did, but over a LONG period of time).


The reason I said "new" tinning was I was using a tinning solution from someone else (who had used this solution previously) and I am not sure that this was working very well, so I went out and bought the tinning solution from Radio shack.


Regardless, the 15 watt iron I bough didn't use either the old or new solution very well. Perhaps I wasn't tinning *THICK* enough?


As for the sponge--yes, I didn't mention that but I did in fact use a wet sponge to remove the excess particulate and re-tin when the iron became discolored. Not sure that I felt the need to mention that.


--F


----------



## SomeDouche

My 34XBR910 is still working perfectly. I use it quite a bit and it still looks absolutely astonishing, especially after a good calibration.


Couple issues tho.


1) there are tiny lil chips on the screen, i thought it was dirt on the screen for a long time, but if i put my finger on it, its a indentation. Im pretty sure this is not fixable correct?


2) the stupid wavey line that pulses from right to left is happening on my display, it happened on my 34KV510 previously and i did the adjustment to remove it, but at the cost of picture quality. I tried it on the 910 and the difference is staggering and im not willing to lose the picture detail for the line that randomly shows up.


Any tips?


----------



## doglegleft

I am somewhat disappointed but at the same time I have found new entertainment. I had nothing to lose going into this project and in the end, after multiple attempts, I learned to solder and desolder.


I took the longer route and parted the D board sufficient to place it into a vertical service position. I desoldered both chips and very gently cleaned the residue from the debraid and inspected all of the pads to make sure they were ready for the new sockets and chips. I soldered in the sockets and installed the chips. Installed the board, checked every connection three times, reassembled the TV, and then hit the power button. Faint sound of a short... 3 blinks... fail.



I got back to it this weekend and inspected my work. Reread everything... I now realize that I had made a significant mistake. I made sure to align the notches on the chips with the sockets but I realized that I did not install the sockets correctly. I installed the notches 180* from the dot printed on the circuit board. The dot and notches should have been aligned.


I uninstalled the chips and sockets and then reinstalled the chips and sockets correctly, reassembled the TV, and then powered it on again only to be disappointed. 3 blinks and continued failure.


Pros:


-I think I understand how to solder and unsolder cleanly. I practiced a good bit before tackling the D board but nothing simulates the real thing.

-I am having fun learning something new.


Cons:


-My xbr800 is still a heavy paper weight.

-I blew two perfectly good chips.


So now what? I checked the fuse near the power cord. I reinstalled new chips. 3 evil blinks remain.


I would like to keep debugging my xbr800. I bought a Craftsman multimeter off of CL recently for a car project and I have downloaded the service manual. I would like to believe that with patience I can figure out where my repair went south. I was hoping that some of our resident gurus could provide guidance on where to start looking next.


If I can't fix mine, I will be on the hunt to rescue another 34" 800 or 960 from CL to replace my paperweight.


Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread.


----------



## Montezuma58

I finally got around to fixing my KV-36XBR800 today. It had been having intermittent power problems since this spring then finally quit powering up at all about a month ago.


I replaced both of the MCZ3001DB chips on the D-board. I was pleasantly surprised that the job was easier than expected. The board was pretty accessible. One of the screws holding down the circuit board was a little difficult to get to but it wasn't that big of a deal. The hardest part of the job was moving the TV to work on it. The second hardest was putting the replacement chips in the sockets. Other components just made it hard to get the chips worked in.


I would just like to thank everybody for the great info in this thread.


----------



## jdre

*Doglegleft* Please see Page 15 of this topic . I had *3 non-repeating blinks* after a hum just like you, it was from some flaws in the solder connections, had to fix a couple of traces leading to the IC sockets. Test continuity with ohm meter and verify to schematic, board should look like my pictures. A few pins are not used, that's normal. Also, you may need *new chips*, but check the connections first. Check Mosfets for short also. Good luck, hope it works!


----------



## Zimmer

FWIW, my XBR960 went on the blink two days ago. After I read up on the issues here, a Sony-referred tech came out, replaced the IC's as I watched, and everything works great. The $190 tab was reasonable, for me--peace of mind (I've never done desoldering), and there's a 90-day labor warranty if the D-board also needs to be replaced.


I love this set, here's hoping it lasts for many years to come!


----------



## rtmach

After a successful repair of my 510 I started looking around for a Kv40xbr 800 to fix, I always wanted the big one but it was just too much $$$ when I bought my others. I found one on craigslist that the guy had listed as a 42 inch but it sounded like the 800 and it was. when I first called he said it worked and wanted $600. I called a week later and he said it didn't come on now and had 7 blinks







He said I could have it for $100 with the matching stand so I went and picked it up. I got it home and when I plugged it in it had one pop thru the speakers and then 7 blinks, my 510 didn't make that sound. does anybody know if this is a more serious problem? It only does it the first time then each time I try the switch it just has 7 blinks. I'll order the chips tonight and hope for the best , if nothing else I've got a new hobby.


----------



## jdre

You have a good chance of fixing that set with the ICs. I have fixed a couple of them, a 32HS510 and a 34HS510, it does make a nice hobby!


----------



## dudemaaan

I have a kv-32hs500 that I picked up from someone for free. It had the 7 blink problem but the screen would pull my arm hair from the static, so I ordered 3 of the 16 pin sockets and chips per this forums guidelines.


Everything went smoothly and easily. Replaced the 2 that everyone recommends. Turned it on and it showed video 4 in the corner. (yay) Hooked up a dvd player and started playing a movie, after a little while it just shut off.







then a little bit later after screwing with trying to get it on, it came on again, was playing fine and then went back off. Now it won't come on and the thing that made static and pulled my arm hair towards the screen isnt working. So what is the deal?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dudemaaan* /forum/post/17228215
> 
> 
> I have a kv-32hs500 that I picked up from someone for free. It had the 7 blink problem but the screen would pull my arm hair from the static, so I ordered 3 of the 16 pin sockets and chips per this forums guidelines.
> 
> 
> Everything went smoothly and easily. Replaced the 2 that everyone recommends. Turned it on and it showed video 4 in the corner. (yay) Hooked up a dvd player and started playing a movie, after a little while it just shut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then a little bit later after screwing with trying to get it on, it came on again, was playing fine and then went back off. Now it won't come on and the thing that made static and pulled my arm hair towards the screen isnt working. So what is the deal?



Perhaps you have a bad or marginal connection somewhere.


I would disconnect and reconnect _every_ connection that you undid for the repair.


Make sure that your ICs are fully seated in the sockets.


If that doesn't help I would re-flow the solder on all of your new conections.


Finally, I think you meant to write _18_ pin sockets. If you did, in fact, use 16 pin sockets well there's your problem right there.










Good luck!


Bob


----------



## dudemaaan

Heres some more information. It blinks 3 times now. It's strange, sometimes it will come on for a short time and then go off, and other times it just won't come on or make any static. I read about a 3rd 18 pin chip that sometimes needs to be replaced. Where is this one located and does my model have it?


Yeah I meant 18 pin, I didn't disconnect anything. I just took the back off, put the tv face down, desoldered the old chips (had to remove the plastic crosspiece) and put the new sockets in place, soldered them then put the chips in making sure they were facing the correct way. I have already re-flowed the connections. Tryed tapping on them lightly while trying to turn it on. Whatever the problem is it seems unaffected by moving or tapping the tv or boards.


EDIT: Just read the 3 blinks is "B+ over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672"

Where can I find that? I didn't touch any other part of the board...


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dudemaaan* /forum/post/17228842
> 
> 
> ....*I read about a 3rd 18 pin chip that sometimes needs to be replaced. Where is this one located and does my model have it?*...



Some Sony models have a third MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board. My KV-36XBR400, for example, has one. But I'm not sure about the KV-32HS500.


Also, if you are able to get it to turn on again, see if you can access the built-in diagnostic mode. That mode stores fault codes which might help you isolate the problem.


As another diagnostic step, you could use an ohmmeter to check all of your new connections for continuity.


----------



## dudemaaan

i edited my previous post, the 3 blinks is some kind of voltages protection. any ideas?


----------



## dudemaaan

I don't know whats going on with this thing! I checked continuity between all the pins on both IC's and they all check out. I used my spare IC to swap with both the other IC's, and whats more is the 3 blinks is gone and it's gone back to 7. I must have done something right initially to get it to even come on but now it won't come on or have static.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dudemaaan* /forum/post/17235741
> 
> 
> I don't know whats going on with this thing! I checked continuity between all the pins on both IC's and they all check out. I used my spare IC to swap with both the other IC's, and whats more is the 3 blinks is gone and it's gone back to 7. I must have done something right initially to get it to even come on but now it won't come on or have static.



Have you double checked the orientation of the socket/ic?


----------



## rtmach




Flachster said:


> Dare I say it? -- "Woot".
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned earlier....I replaced existing DB chips in the TV. The TV was manufactured 5 years ago. I bought it new from Best Buy, and the bad chips inside were Shindengen MCZ3001DB BO1643 (I thought the chips were SUPPOSED to be direct from Sony). I replaced them with the new ones I ordered from MCM. Seeing Shindengen chips sorta shocked me and made me pause.
> 
> Flachster: "sorry I screwed up the quote option"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shindengen's are the original sony chips. On my kv-36hs510 which I bought new, they were Shindengen mcz3001d's but on the kv40xbr800 that I just got they were Shindengen mcz3001db's. they were both manufactured in nov 2003. I thought that the 800 may have had the board replaced," there was no sign of the chips being replaced" but after reading your post and looking it over I 'm pretty sure it's the original. It could be that the same boards were made in different plants using either chips.


----------



## mrlarryrp

I can't thank this forum enough.

I read though and fixed my TV for less than $40. (cheap 15 watt soldering iron, ic chips (New DB) on ebay with sockets,desoldering braid, flux and cheap 170m cutters.

All I did was pull off the back and the IC 8002 was right there. I only replaced this one to see if it was the problem and it was. I used the braid to pull most of the solder off. Be sure to brush the braid with flux. I then cut the pin of the IC as close to the IC as possible. Pulled out the IC and the pins. Those that were stuck I gripped with the cutters and heated up with the iron. Sucked out the rest of solder with the braid. Fitted the New IC to the socket. It needed a little bending here and there. Dropped the socket and brush with flux. Soldered socket and fit IC into socket. Powered up a few times to check and put back cover on.

Done!


If I did it again I would just cut out the IC and heat up the pins and pull them out. Then I would suck out the solder with a desoldering gun. I would then brush all the pins on the socket with flux. I think this would direct the solder better.


All in all for my first IC replacement, I think it went well.


Thanks again, Larry


These guys on ebay rock. I won it on 9/20 and received it on 9/23 two IC the new DB type and two sockets $16.98 delivered. myworld.ebay.com/exxpressparts


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/17216051
> 
> 
> After a successful repair of my 510 I started looking around for a Kv40xbr 800 to fix, I always wanted the big one but it was just too much $$$ when I bought my others. I found one on craigslist that the guy had listed as a 42 inch but it sounded like the 800 and it was. when I first called he said it worked and wanted $600. I called a week later and he said it didn't come on now and had 7 blinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He said I could have it for $100 with the matching stand so I went and picked it up. I got it home and when I plugged it in it had one pop thru the speakers and then 7 blinks, my 510 didn't make that sound. does anybody know if this is a more serious problem? It only does it the first time then each time I try the switch it just has 7 blinks. I'll order the chips tonight and hope for the best , if nothing else I've got a new hobby.



I have installed the chips and got it to come on but it will only stay on for a few minutes before the picture zooms out and goes off with the sound continuing for about a half second. It then goes to 6 blinks. If I turn it back on it will stay on a shorter time and then go off again. My father has a kv32hs420 that behaves the same way, but if he puts a fan on the board it will stay on. I'm going to try that as soon as it cools off. What I need to know is when I get into the service menu " I might only have a few minutes to look", where do I find the fault code that may isolate the problem if possible? Also does anybody know if these D-boards are inter-changeable or specific to each model? If I'm unable to fix this is there still a place to send the board off for a diagnostic repair? right now I only have $117 invested in it so it would be worth a little more to fix this one. thanks for any advice.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/17251029
> 
> 
> I have installed the chips and got it to come on but it will only stay on for a few minutes before the picture zooms out and goes off with the sound continuing for about a half second. It then goes to 6 blinks. If I turn it back on it will stay on a shorter time and then go off again. My father has a kv32hs420 that behaves the same way, but if he puts a fan on the board it will stay on. I'm going to try that as soon as it cools off. What I need to know is when I get into the service menu " I might only have a few minutes to look", where do I find the fault code that may isolate the problem if possible? Also does anybody know if these D-boards are inter-changeable or specific to each model? If I'm unable to fix this is there still a place to send the board off for a diagnostic repair? right now I only have $117 invested in it so it would be worth a little more to fix this one. thanks for any advice.



Some of the D-Boards are interchangeable but, generally they are not. If I recall correctly, the D-Board in my KV-36XBR400 was the same one used in the KV-32XBR400.


As far as board repair goes, TriStateModule.com will repair these boards:

http://tristatemodule.com/ 


About three years ago, they estimated $150 to repair my D-Board. But you have to add the shipping cost both ways. And there's always the risk that you'll be stuck with a non-functioning TV if the problem is _not_ on the D-Board. The CSR suggested that I also send in the A-Board and the yoke-mounted C-Board so they could be sure to find the problem.


Also, you might want to check to see if your set has a third MCZ3001D mounted on the A-Board. (If so, you might want to replace that. Not every Sony has one on the A-Board. My 36XBR400 does.)


Even though you only have $117 invested in the set, at some point you may want to cut your losses. You might be able find a perfectly functioning KV-40XBR800 for under $200. Sometimes people are just happy to get rid of them.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## rtmach

Thanks for the info, mine does have the third chip and it can be changed from underneath by cutting away a little plastic, I don't have a new one right now but will get some more soon. I now have a total of 7 of these sony's with the DA-4 chassis so I thought they might have the same board, I'll open one later and compare the bar code numbers that are on the stickers, I might be willing to change boards to get this one to work


----------



## rtmach

I've been emailing back and forth with the guy I bought my chips from, he is a repair tech and this is what he said about my problem"*The zoom out problem on those is HV horizontal deflection problem related. After several on/off procedures error codes should be stored in the memory. The main board that has power supply and HV should fix the problem. Or if you can troubleshoot to the component level it could be flyback xformer or HV caps in horizontal output section*." He also gave me a place to send the board off for repair " http://www.moduslink.com/Aftermarket_Solutions/Repairs_Remanufacture.cfm " I may do that, but least I got the stand in case I find another cheap one that works.


----------



## jdre

Does it get very bright with angled lines before shutdown? Also, I do believe you could swap D boards, except from the 34" 16:9 models. KV40XBR800 is in my service manual, go to Schematics for free Sony page, scroll to KV36XBR800, same manual.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17252420
> 
> 
> Does it get very bright with angled lines before shutdown? Also, I do believe you could swap D boards, except from the 34" 16:9 models. KV40XBR800 is in my service manual, go to Schematics for free Sony page, scroll to KV36XBR800, same manual.



I don't think it gets any brighter. I have been messing with it all day and have been able to get it to stay on by not using the vivid setting. if I turn up the brightness most of the time it goes off. this set has been kept in a hot and humid garage for the last 4 or 5 months and I have it in my hot and humid garage, I'm hoping it just needs to stay on for awhile. I'll be on the look out for a another tv with the same board and hopefully get a seven blinker that just needs the ic's. I've been able to adjust a lot settings in the service menu to get it looking pretty good. Maybe someone has an idea why the brightness is causing the shutdown. the d board # is "d 1-684-618-31"


----------



## FrE3

so im a college kid who found a sony rear projection tv (model KP46V15) on the side of the road and thought "hey free tv!" so i brought it back to the apartment to see if i could fix it by looking online for similar problems. i know just about nothing about tvs but i have messed around with wiring and soldering here and there...mostly on guitar hero guitars and stuff.


anyways the problem is that the tv turns on...doesnt display an input or channel label (when i change the channel or the input it doesnt show any numbers in the corner) its just fuzz so im assuming theres something wrong with the picture. also it stays on for about 10 seconds give or take then goes into standby. the manual was very easy to find, i just searched the model number on google (that's actually how i found this forum). if you have any advice, it would be awesome if you commented back and if i am unfamiliar with any terms you use ill let you know


Thanks a lot! it would be sweet if i could get this thing working in a week because the packer - viking game is on next weekend and im a minnesotan going to school in milwaukee


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FrE3* /forum/post/17253658
> 
> 
> so im a college kid who found a sony rear projection tv (model KP46V15) on the side of the road and thought "hey free tv!" so i brought it back to the apartment to see if i could fix it by looking online for similar problems. i know just about nothing about tvs but i have messed around with wiring and soldering here and there...mostly on guitar hero guitars and stuff.
> 
> 
> anyways the problem is that the tv turns on...doesnt display an input or channel label (when i change the channel or the input it doesnt show any numbers in the corner) its just fuzz so im assuming theres something wrong with the picture. also it stays on for about 10 seconds give or take then goes into standby. the manual was very easy to find, i just searched the model number on google (that's actually how i found this forum). if you have any advice, it would be awesome if you commented back and if i am unfamiliar with any terms you use ill let you know
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot! it would be sweet if i could get this thing working in a week because the packer - viking game is on next weekend and im a minnesotan going to school in milwaukee



Unfortunately, this forum is for direct view (single tube) CRT displays. So it's probably not the best place to find repair advice for your rear projection Sony.


Another place to check out is the "Television Troubleshooting" forum over on Agoraquest.com:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34 


Best of luck with your repair attempt!


Bob


----------



## nevermiss

picked up kv36hs510

have a powerup problem 5 flashes when cold once on seems to turn back on fine.put a litle heat from heat gun around fbt and seems to power up. is this the ic problem any ideas?


----------



## rtmach

I just got around to opening my hs36510 and my hs36500 to look at the boards and it turns out that the 500 has the same exact board number while the 510 ends in 21 instead of 31. I've been practicing removing the wires and clips on another old screwed up sony tv so I will be changing boards soon and just keep the 500 in standard mode till I find a suitable board for it.


----------



## jdre

rtmach: make sure Vivid doesn't have both Picture and Brightnesss up. Could just be too high current, and it's protecting itself. My vivid is: Picture max, Brightness middle, which I can't use (too strong). You may have to readjust picture size with different board. Did you have to?


nevermiss: I would replace the MCZ3001D IC8002 first, it's near Flyback. Check for bad solder connections under the board.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17277285
> 
> 
> rtmach: make sure Vivid doesn't have both Picture and Brightnesss up. Could just be too high current, and it's protecting itself. My vivid is: Picture max, Brightness middle, which I can't use (too strong). You may have to readjust picture size with different board. Did you have to?



I set it to those settings and it will still go out, but I can bump up the picture and brightness in standard and it looks great and very rarely goes out. as far as changing the picture size if needed, Is that done with the knob that is near the focus wire that goes into the crt socket? I thought I read somewhere that there's a voltage regulator somewhere, anybody know which part#? I also located a new board from sony for $195 and I might just get that. I will not buy another 40 inch, It took 4 people to get this in my living room. this one would be worth about $325 for me and I don't have to move it or any others again. I have a lot of sonys and this one has almost perfect geometry and color convergence which can be rare in sony crt's, so I'm going to keep this one going as long as I can. thanks for any help. I think before I do anything I'll buy 2 more chips and replace again, maybe got too hot or a defective chip.


----------



## jdre

*rtmach* Size is in the service menus. The black knob on CRT board is the HStat convergence control. Knobs on flyback are the screen (if too high can cause shutdown) and focus. Were you able to download the schematic?


----------



## goldberg420

Is it possible to change just MCZ3001DB not the socket? will it work?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goldberg420* /forum/post/17283644
> 
> 
> Is it possible to change just MCZ3001DB not the socket? will it work?



Are you asking if it's possible to install the MCZ3001D IC without using an 18-pin socket? If so, the answer is yes. The socket makes future IC replacements easier but it's certainly not required.


----------



## jdre

276-1992 70 cents at Radio Shack. Theoretically, it's more reliable to solder it in, but convenient later on, and avoids heating the new parts.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17283350
> 
> *rtmach* Size is in the service menus. The black knob on CRT board is the HStat convergence control. Knobs on flyback are the screen (if too high can cause shutdown) and focus. Were you able to download the schematic?



Does that focus wire come off at the flyback or If I were to replace the board does that module that has the black knob come off with the focus wire, it looks to be attached without solder but with a couple tabs on the back off the crt board. As far as the knobs on the flyback I see 2, the bottom one has a white sealent and the top does not. I would be afraid to mess with the sealed one, so what does the top knob adjust? I downloaded the 700xrb but realize it's a little different .I will download the 36xbr800 and look that over next. I did go thru the service menu and compared to my other tv's and xbr 700 settings and and there were some big differences on some settings. I set them to more in line to the factory settings and the picture improved as far as color, white and black levels. So it seems someone has been in there changing things and by how far some were out they didn't know what they were doing. I also stuck a couple magnets around the corners of the tube and took out the typical color distortion on these sony's, so it looks great now. this tv will still stay on until there is a burst of white, but not color in a show or a commercial, but since I have a dvr I will try the same scene in different modes and brightness to see what the limit is. I did try the same mode in hdmi and it stays on, probably because of the smaller screen size. I can watch shows in a brighter mode if I use the hdmi. Since the problem seems to be stable and not getting any worse and I can use this set all day and night I want to stay careful about any further adjustments. as soon as I get my fathers 32 inch sony in my garage I will experiment on that before touching this one for now, other than to replace the chips again. I shot some pics of the flyback and the tv in my very bright living room, I have two 8 foot sliding glass doors so it's a good test, I have it in standard mode with both the pic and brightness set to the middle It will stay on almost all day in this setting and this is too bright for me at night. thanks again for any advice


----------



## jdre

The upper knob is focus, looks like it's about where mine is. Tube sure looks good! I'll take a look at my set for the board connections.


----------



## Rixblab

Ladies & Gentlemen,

Thank you for the posts so far. They have led me to attempt the repair of my newly aquired 36XBR800, where it does not power on and signals with 6 blinks on the standby LED.

Following the instructions of various posts, I have successfully removed the 2 chips (MCZ3001D) and replaced them with 18 pin sockets. I await the shipment of the replacement chips (MCZ3001DB) obtained on e-bay, seller "coreweave" for awhopping 4.99 each, and 2.99 shipping. Whooaaa!

Anyway, as I completed the installation of the sockets, I notice, under IC6501, there are 2 pad sets intended for a resistor (R6541) capacitor (C6509). From my pics of the IC removal I think these pads were unpopulated. Is this true, or is a resistor and capacitor needed, and if so, what values.

Thanks,

Rixblab


----------



## Rixblab

 Attachment 154553 

Attachment 154554 

Attachment 154555 

Attachment 154556 

Attachment 154557 From the previous post, A pictorial record of the repair so far - 1-5 of 11


Thanks,

Rixblab.


----------



## Rixblab

the pictorial record of the replacement cont.

pics 6-9


Rixblab.


----------



## Rixblab

The socket replacement soldered to the board.

Attachment 154562 

Attachment 154563 


Rixblab.


----------



## jdre

R6541 and C6509 are unpopulated, that's normal. Looks like nice work! I check for solder splash and reflow parts nearby if needed (check near C8032). Did the TV work?


----------



## Rixblab

jdre,

Thanks fpr the reply. Yes you are correct. I posed the same question to the chip seller on e-bay and he sent back the below Pic.

Reaeding the solder splash, Yea, pretty sloppy work if I may say so myself. In my haste to remove the chips I used an air gun to blow away the moulton solder, creating the problem as at that time I could not find my solder wick. Since then I have gone back and cleaned up the area and surrounding areas, then installed the sockets.

I am waiting for the new chips to arrive, then we'ii see if it fires up.

Thanks,

Rixblab


----------



## goldberg420

I thought that you can solder all the connection on socket. Also, i was wondering is it a good idea to lay the tv set face down?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goldberg420* /forum/post/17314226
> 
> 
> I thought that you can solder all the connection on socket. Also, i was wondering is it a good idea to lay the tv set face down?



It's not required if the pins are not used.


I did solder all the pins on the two sockets I installed in my KV-36XBR400 but that was before I realized that not all of the pins are used. In any case, soldering the unused pins doesn't prevent a successful repair.


On laying the TV face down, many have used this method without a problem.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> I did solder all the pins on the two sockets I installed in my KV-36XBR400 but that was before I realized that not all of the pins are used.



Hi there


The proper way to solder these joints is to place the hot tip on the component/socket *pin* _and_ the copper *pad* surrounding the hole. Both the pin and the pad need to be heated for a good solder joint. Heating just the pin is one way to get bad/cold solder joints.


Since the unused pins do not have pads on the circuit board, how do you guys even make these "joints"? Are you putting a blob of solder on the pin? Don't you notice that these pad-less "joints" are different from the other solder joints? If you do not see a pad on the board, then skip to the next pin+pad.


Regards


----------



## jdre

*rixblab:*Make sure the chips are in the right way (notch to the Black dot left/outside if looking from the back of the set. I had to bend the chip legs a bit so they are vertical (against flat surface carefully) to line up with the sockets, then push them in until they stop going farther. I think you will be watching TV soon.


----------



## MrORANGE30

My tv's crashed blinks 2 times something wrong with the power,

try starting the tv with the remote then it starts to flash 3 times,

Can't find anything on the net, on that tv...

would be soo happy if somebody could help me!

Or email me, the service manual
[email protected]


----------



## freak of freaks

thanks to all who have kept this thread alive and contributed. so many great pics and trestimonials.


after being without my tv for months, i finally ordered my chips, practiced soldering and gave it a shot. i think the soldering went ok but in the process, i've disconnected another wire that i believe will require replacing. it's the small white wire and it goes to the smaller PCB on the back of the tube. it has a unique connection which is soldered into the board. one leg can be resoldered but the other is broken off. when i try turning my tv on i can now see white around the edges, trying to come on but no picture. i now get 4 blinks. can anyone tell me if the 4 blinks is because of the cable i broke? how can i get another one? is it possible i've done anything else to the D board because i did disconnect it. all but the large red wire and the smaller red and white wires, so while turning it over repeatedly, i could have bent a diode or capacitor?


i got better at the soldering as i progressed and i could go back and redo it. don't know if it is necessary or if the current problem is that wire. i could take pics or edit someone elses to highlight the cable i'm referring to. thanks in advance for any help


-tony


btw - KV36XBR800

also i only replaced the 2 IC's on the D board. used sockets and wick. tried a cold soldering gun but ended up having better luck with a basic 15 watt iron, just took more patience.


no matter what happens, i'm glad i tried and i'd do it again. hopefully, it's not dead yet and i can still slavage this fix.


*** HOLD EVERYTHING ***


I'm editing this post because noone else has been here today. I hate it when I do the hard part right and mess up on something easy. I checked all my connections ... well all but one HUGE SET OF WIRES. looks like a power supply for a computer motherboard. plug that in and I have SUCCESS!!! My 240lb. paperweight is working again.


now i still have an issue with that broken cable. I seated it where it should be and resoldered one leg, the other is up against the surface it should be OK but I don't think i can trust it. Does anyone know what this cable does? maybe i'll find out tonight as i hook up all my peripherals and go through all my settings, high def, filter through inputs, who knows?


Once again, I want to thank everyone here, I'm a do-it-yourselfer, but i've never soldered anything in my life. my practice sessions were a failure but i tried anyway and it went better than anticipated. desoldering was harder than soldering. I had to crunch the old IC with a pair of pliers and rip it out after partial desoldering. Don't know what i can add to anyone else that's contemplating the fix but just do it. give yourself good light and get comfortable. take your time. read this whole thread. took me days.


I'm elated. Thank you all again.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freak of freaks* /forum/post/17320898
> 
> 
> thanks to all who have kept this thread alive and contributed. so many great pics and trestimonials.
> 
> 
> ........ I checked all my connections ... well all but one HUGE SET OF WIRES. looks like a power supply for a computer motherboard. plug that in and I have SUCCESS!!! My 240lb. paperweight is working again......
> 
> 
> Once again, I want to thank everyone here, I'm a do-it-yourselfer, but i've never soldered anything in my life. my practice sessions were a failure but i tried anyway and it went better than anticipated. desoldering was harder than soldering. I had to crunch the old IC with a pair of pliers and rip it out after partial desoldering. Don't know what i can add to anyone else that's contemplating the fix but just do it. give yourself good light and get comfortable. take your time. read this whole thread. took me days.
> 
> 
> I'm elated. Thank you all again.



Congratulations on your successful repair!


I was just about to suggest that you disconnect and reconnect _everything_. The "unconnected connector" problem has been reported a few times.


Also, it doesn't surprise me that you had no luck with the cold solder tool. I bought one of those once and I quickly decided that it was basically useless.


----------



## Rixblab

Too All, Especially Robert F & jdre,

I have tonight insytalled the 2 ICs & No dice.... Bummer.

The same 6 blinks appear on the standby LED and no power up.

Any suggestions?

Rixblab


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rixblab* /forum/post/17323673
> 
> 
> Too All, Especially Robert F & jdre,
> 
> I have tonight installed the 2 ICs & No dice.... Bummer.
> 
> The same 6 blinks appear on the standby LED and no power up.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Rixblab



Pending inputs from other forum members, here are some suggestions:


1) Disconnect and reconnect everything.


2) If you used sockets, make sure both ICs are firmly seated in the sockets. And if you have a spare MCZ3001D IC, try swapping that with the ones you installed. Check the IC orientation.


3) Double check your soldering to see if you might have pulled up some PCB trace material. Look for any additional solder splash that you might have missed.


4) Check your newly soldered connections for continuity with a multi-meter.


Of course, one possibility is that the power on problems are not connected to a faulty MCZ3001D IC.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## ooqo

Will try it thanks a lot


----------



## Rixblab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/17323729
> 
> 
> Pending inputs from other forum members, here are some suggestions:
> 
> 
> 1) Disconnect and reconnect everything.
> 
> 
> 2) If you used sockets, make sure both ICs are firmly seated in the sockets. And if you have a spare MCZ3001D IC, try swapping that with the ones you installed. Check the IC orientation.
> 
> 
> 3) Double check your soldering to see if you might have pulled up some PCB trace material. Look for any additional solder splash that you might have missed.
> 
> 
> 4) Check your newly soldered connections for continuity with a multi-meter.
> 
> 
> Of course, one possibility is that the power on problems are not connected to a faulty MCZ3001D IC.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> Bob



Almost there.

Thanks everyone, I executed the suggestions of Robert F and Whoaa! Power on. I think it was the reflow of the solder joints with the heat gun that did the trick, but of course I cannot really know.

It now powers on but the picture alignment is horrible. From a blank VCR setup screen, the text is crowned (like a frown) about 2 inches overall deviation, and very much out of focus. Also, the main area of the screen is blue (correct) but the corners are purple / magenta.

I can probably attribute the mis-alignment to the fact that when we were lifting the set to my bench, it slipped and softly landed on it's back. Nothing inside was damaged or appeared mis-aligned.

Any suggestions?


----------



## jdre

Congrats on getting your Sonys going:

*freak of freaks* If that CN9002 white wire is secure to the CRT board, it should be fine. If it was loose, the picture would be dark.

*rixblab* Does the TV hum loudly at first power up? If so, the degauss is working and the corners should clear up after a few power ups, unless the TV took a hard drop somewhere. If not, check wires are all correctly plugged in. The frown text could be caused by the W board hanging off CRT (careful not to move it) is not plugged in, or the VPIN needs adjustment. My father's 32HS510 did that, but not as badly, I used magnets+adjustment. My 34HS510 just needed adjustment. For focus, set the picture/brightness to halfway up. Try Standard or Movie picture mode, then let TV warm up 15 minutes and tweak focus knob for shapest image(the upper knob on flyback.)


----------



## rtmach

I was able to pick up a couple more chips on ebay for $5.11 after my ebay bucks. I put them in today, no change. I now have $122.09 invested but the picture is great, I just can't use the vivid setting.I'm not going to mess around with this board anymore until I have a working replacement. Next step will be to find a 6 or 7 blinker with the same board for free or very very cheap.


----------



## jdre

Vivid=shorter TV life anyhow. The "weak" board may work on a smaller tube, and you probably have some spare chips.


----------



## rtmach

The vivid setting is too bright anyway for the stuff I watch,I have tweaked the standard a little brighter and it will stay on and rarely cut off from a burst of white. I do have a 36hs500 that has the same board and may switch boards after I get some practice on my fathers old sony 32hs420. the 500 is in a darker room and doesn't need the vivid and as you say jdre, the tube is smaller and it might work normally.


----------



## Rixblab

Thanks everyone for the help, but disappointing news.

JDRE, the W board looks good, as well as the rest of the boards. I wiggled everything and re-seated all of the connectors, but the same affect. A frowned out of focus picture. Bummer... I then called one of the TV repair shops in town, and he said once the chips were replaced, it would cost more than a new TV to repair it, thus he would not even touch it. Double Bummer.

As now I have done all that I can, I decided to go for the re-heat with the heat gun again. This time when I did, one of the capacitors on the A board split apart and the internals squirted out like a snake out of a box. GAME OVER.

If anyone wants the TV, it's yours. I am in the south bay of Los Angeles. Please e-mail me if you are interested, [email protected] .

Thanks all, Rixblab


----------



## jdre

Must have made it too hot! (Or, maybe that's the bad part.) The TV had issues before the usual MCZ chips failed.


----------



## eclipsedave

What's up gang?


I have not accessed this site for a few months, but WOW...How about all those successful repairs?! Almost unbelievable!


34XBR800--After replacing one chip about 2 years ago(the chip I replaced was the one NOT obscured by the bracket), my set died again...Same issue.


I had one spare DB chip and replaced the same one as before to rule it out. No go. So UNDO. Then I replaced the one that IS obscured by the bracket.(I had previously installed sockets on both) And VOILA! It workED again.


That was yesterday. But this morning, it does not work. Would you guys happen to know if:

A. There is another DB on an "A-Board"?

B. There is another thing wrong, ie. a capacitor?

C. Perhaps one or both newer DB's went bad?


I suppose I should obtain a few more DB's to do the trial and error thing first?. Does anyone have any spare BRAND NEW DB's that they wish to sell? I can do Paypal and my Ebay rating is impeccable.


Thanks for considering and to all you DIYers....GO RUFF 'EM UP!

-eclipseDave


*After finding what appears to be another MCZ chip on the A board, I have ordered (2) more chips from Tri-State Module moments ago...

**Correction--->The chip mentioned above is NOT another MCZ DB chip.


----------



## Tony A.

Hello all.


I have a Sony KV32HS500. I had the red blinking lights, and I've read all about replacing the ICs but I think my problem is different.


Upon opening my case, I looked at the D board and saw this:










As you can see, on the RV8002, the grey putty has melted and splattered on neighboring components.


I cannot read the number off the actual resistor. I called Sony and they gave me the part no. (122562791) and they do not have them in stock. They told me that it is an obsolete part.


Upon further searching, I found a substitution part number (122562711.) This part is a non-stock item also.


So now I'm stuck and I need someone who has an open TV to look over theirs and see if they can read the stamp or numbers on that part because I can't read it off of mine.


Or if anyone knows where to get this part, please leave a response.


I would greatly appreciate it.


--Tony


----------



## rtmach

I have the same board and the back off my tv, I looked at all 4 sides of the exploded part and could not see any numbers.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tony A.* /forum/post/17383462
> 
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> 
> I have a Sony KV32HS500. I had the red blinking lights, and I've read all about replacing the ICs but I think my problem is different.
> 
> 
> Upon opening my case, I looked at the D board and saw this:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, on the RV8002, the grey putty has melted and splattered on neighboring components.
> 
> 
> I cannot read the number off the actual resistor. I called Sony and they gave me the part no. (122562791) and they do not have them in stock. They told me that it is an obsolete part.
> 
> 
> Upon further searching, I found a substitution part number (122562711.) This part is a non-stock item also.
> 
> 
> So now I'm stuck and I need someone who has an open TV to look over theirs and see if they can read the stamp or numbers on that part because I can't read it off of mine.
> 
> 
> Or if anyone knows where to get this part, please leave a response.
> 
> 
> I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> 
> --Tony



Tony,


You might want to try calling a local Sony repair center and see if they can provide any advice on finding that part.


You might also want to post a request for help over on Agoraquest.com's "Television Troubleshooting" forum:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34 


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## jdre

*Tony A* RV8002 is a 2Kohm potentiometer that is secured with epoxy and I believe the assembly tech just "splattered" glue. Check and see it measures less than 2K ohms. It's a factory adjustment. I'd go for the MCZ chips.

*Eclipsedave* According to my Service Manual, there is no MCZ3001D on the A board on the 34XBR800 (older XBR400, and I think XBR2 have that). What I'd do is try the *New* set of chips together, be sure all soldering/sockets are proper.


----------



## Tony A.

Thank you. I checked it out and it measured less than 2kohms. (1.184kohm)


I'll keep investigating and see if I can find the real issue...


----------



## Ben Diss

I've got a KV-36XBR400 that doesn't turn on and is blinking 7 times. It's going, going, gone. Plasma is ordered.


This TV and matching Sony stand is free (as-is of course) to the first person that PM's me and is willing to pick it up from my home at 10977.


----------



## jdre

*Tony A* That part is OK. Most likely you will need to change the MCZs. Maybe there is a way to show which is bad (scope, voltage missing).

*Ben Diss* Probably just needs the MCZ3001 chips, might have to put in Craigslist saying so to encourage someone to pick it up. I would if I wasn't 400 miles away.


----------



## 2ndshot

I had the no picture at power on and the TV would not make that loud click when the tube turns on. There were 6 blinks on the standby led at power on. Replacing the two MCZ3001DB chips on the D-board fixed the problem. Here were some of the tricky parts from my repair for others to keep in mind.


1) I found it real important to take picures with my digital camera of the orignal wire connectors along with the orientation for re-assembly. I took pictures of the wires just after pulling them out so they were more visible. After that I had to remove the eight or so D-board screws.


2) I chose to leave the red and white wires in place, one of them is the FBT, and they do not come off easily. Leaving them in place, I was able to rotate the board to get access to the solder side. It was just a back breaking job as I was hunched over the TV during the desolder phase. Page 12 of this thread had a good discussion on this as well as some great photos by jdre.


w w w . a v s f o r u m . c o m /avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945&page=12


(Apparently, I can not post forum links until I post more often.)


3) Those four big black connectors were tricky. They do pop right off. But until you get the first one off, it is really hard to figure out how to do it gently. I tended to lift at one side or the other. The side that pops off is the one connected to the D-board and the hinge is on the 'other' board.


4) It is very important to add new solder to the old solder prior to using the desoldering pump. Counter-inutitive perhaps but the existing solder is old and doesn't conduct the heat from the solder gun very well. I skipped this step at first and it was almost impossible to desolder the chip pins.


5) I didn't have access to a fancy solder/desolder station. I use to and wish I still did but it was not required. No, I had a radio shack 30W solder pen and desoldering vaccum pump. If you remember to add new solder and steady your hands it is fairly straight forward.


6) Keep in mind the location of the nearby surface mount components. I would bring my solder pen in from the opposide side of to avoid desolding them by accident. Also, make sure the solder gun is hot enough before starting. Get good tip contact to transfer the heat. This is where soldering become a bit of an art form.


7) There are basically four rows of pins and I would re-tin my solder pen after each row. After one or two passes with the manual vaccum pump. I took my needle nose pliers and gently pulled the chip while heating the chip pins with my solder pen.


8) I installed the 18-pin socket and inserted the MCZ3001DB chips. Be sure not to bend the chip pins while pushing it in. I've done similar work in the past and curled the pin up under the chip. It no worky after that. It is a good idea to eyeball the alignment of the chip and socket prior to installing socket on the board. I used a a cheap magnifying glass from my daughter's spy kit to check the pins before pushing.


Put it back together and my TV worked! I after a few hours, I bought four more of the MCZ3001DB chips and stuck them right next my exipred two year Sony warrenty.


You guys are awesome!


----------



## 2ndshot

Attached are some annotated photos from my MCZ3002DB replacement for the Sony KV-34HS510. Good luck all.


----------



## Neomatrix

I have read through most of the postings, and I have not seen anyone else who have 4 blinks. My Sony KP-61HS30 powers up with no picture, has sound, then goes off and lamp blinks 4 times. Is the MCZ3001DB the problem also? The service manual says for 4 blinks +- 15v not supplied, Vertical deflection stopped, IC8003 is faulty (A Board). Weird thing is their is no IC8003 on A Board. There is one however on D board. And I think it is the MCZ3001DB chip everybody here is replacing.


Anybody else have 4 blinks? If so was it the MCZ3001DB chip? Thanks for your help in advance.











Ok so I figured out I posted in the wrong forum. Sorry to interrupt. I have opened another discussion topic for this unit in the rear projection area. Link here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1194421 if anyone is interested in assisting. Thanks.


----------



## toyboy09

hello everone.

this is my first post here.my 5 year old sony kv30hs510(i think that's right) blew with the 6 blink code.i went searching on the web and found this place.

i ordered 2 3001db ic's off ebay with the sockets and installed them today.

voila!!!! my t.v. works again (for now).thanks everyone on this forum for all the help.

p.s. i went out and bought a pana. 46s1 plasma as i didn't know if and when i could fix my sony.


----------



## Mark Goetz

Neomatrix-I do not believe the MCZ chips have anything to do with your problem (could be wrong though). Sorry I can't be much help, but I am sure someone here will help or send you in the right direction soon.


toyboy09 and 2ndshot-Congrats on your repair.


----------



## Neomatrix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/17465297
> 
> 
> Neomatrix-I do not believe the MCZ chips have anything to do with your problem (could be wrong though). Sorry I can't be much help, but I am sure someone here will help or send you in the right direction soon.
> 
> 
> toyboy09 and 2ndshot-Congrats on your repair.



Thanks Mark. I'm still searching. It seems as if info for these RP's is far and few, maybe that means no breakdowns?


----------



## Cossa

I've been a member here for quite some time, but this is the first time I've ever tried soldering anything. I followed the steps here and was able to fix my 34xbr910 in a couple hours.


I desoldered with additional solder and a radio shack solder pump in 15 minutes. IC8002 was the location of the bad IC and I replaced the MCZ3001DB with another from TSM. After putting it all back together and hoping that I hadn't messed anything else it, it fired up!


There are a lot of connections that have to be made. I took lots of digital photos before disconnecting to remind me what went where.


Thanks for this thread!


----------



## jdre

It's always nice to hear about successes! 2ndShot, nice photos!


----------



## Blessedon

Hi all,

My KV36HS500 was exhibiting the 6-7 blink power-up fault, but still functioning when I had perused this thread up to page 16 - which is when it stopped functioning.

I have never soldered or desoldered in my life but had no intention of letting this baby go without a fight, so, being financially challenged, I learned all I could here, bought the tools, and desoldered the first chip. Since I have no idea what I am looking at, may I ask your opinion of the work in the attached photo? Have I messed up anything? Is the area still viable to accept the new MCZ3001DB I have?


I have some old circuit boards in my workshop to practice soldering on, and will do so before I try here if you think it's a go.

Thanks for your time!


----------



## Fred23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/17475130
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> My KV36HS500 was exhibiting the 6-7 blink power-up fault, but still functioning when I had perused this thread up to page 16 - which is when it stopped functioning.
> 
> I have never soldered or desoldered in my life but had no intention of letting this baby go without a fight, so, being financially challenged, I learned all I could here, bought the tools, and desoldered the first chip. Since I have no idea what I am looking at, may I ask your opinion of the work in the attached photo? Have I messed up anything? Is the area still viable to accept the new MCZ3001DB I have?
> 
> 
> I have some old circuit boards in my workshop to practice soldering on, and will do so before I try here if you think it's a go.
> 
> Thanks for your time!



Those look a bit sloppy still. You might want to try just heating up that left over solder in the holes and clean them out a bit more.


I just did the same project with my KV-36hs510. If you have about 11 bucks(10 and change) and have a radioshack near, get a desoldering iron/pump. Ive never soldered or desoldered before in my life, and this tool is a genius of a tool. Simple as simple gets to use it and really gets the job done. My holes looked super clean. Its worth every penny, especially if you are new to soldering.


Otherwise, get some desoldering wick/braid and clean those up. I may not be the best one for the advice. Someone who knows better may tell you those look good. I have a feeling you are going to hear what I just said again though. Its worth having them as clean as possible for this job. Doing the job right the first time will be well worth it.


Im a novice to say the least and just fixed my sony thanks to the forum and some soldering videos I looked at around the web.


Good luck.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/17475130
> 
> 
> Since I have no idea what I am looking at, may I ask your opinion of the work in the attached photo? Have I messed up anything? Is the area still viable to accept the new MCZ3001DB I have?



Hi there


What you have now is good enough to continue with, although holes #3 and #16 could use a touch of the iron tip to clean up the holes. The blob of solder near hole #9 (for C802 ?) looks strange; was that already there before you started?


You could use a lighter touch with the soldering iron. The gouging of the silkscreen (the white paint) indicates some rough treatment. A properly tinned tip will easily transfer its heat to the pad and pin without having to press hard on the board or parts.


The solder job will go better with lead solder. Lead-free solder is just a pain in the butt.


Regards


----------



## jdre

Your C8028 has extra solder, may be OK if it was like that, otherwise looks good to me. Take a look at my set on Page 15. Soldering is pretty ugly from previous owner repair attempt and my fixes, but it's working well. Yours will look good!







By lead solder means 60/40, the regular electronic type sold at Radio Shack.


----------



## sonynomore

Another success story. I have a 34XBR910. Six light blinks and no picture. I replaced my faulty IC 8002 with a new on and an 18 pin IC socket and now it works! After I got off the back it was hard to figure out how to slide up the bottom tray. There were some small black tabs I had to press to do it. Then I could remove another piece that was in the way. The Service Manual did help me with their dismantling instructions. I was never any good at soldering but it worked. I got two IC and a pin broke on one when I tried to insert it. On the second one I inserted it into another socket first to bend all the pins in a little bit. Anyway, thanks for all the help. I think this will be my last Sony product. I have had bad luck with this brand for some reason.


----------



## Blessedon

*Fred23, blue_z, jdre,*

Thanks for your time in looking over the work. I appreciate your suggestions and will do my best to follow them.

That blob by C8028 had me concerned as well. But it was that way before so I let it be.


I hope to post back this weekend with good news!


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17479062
> 
> 
> By lead solder means 60/40, the regular electronic type sold at Radio Shack.



Hi there


FWIW I use Kester 63/37 with the 44 Flux, 0.025 diameter; this is an oft recommended solder for electronics. It may be difficult to find in quantities smaller than a one pound spool. To replace the two ICs in the Sony TV, I probably used about 12 inches of solder wire.



TO Blessedon:

Like jdre already wrote, if that blob was already there, then it is probably best to just leave it alone.


Regards


----------



## jdre

*sonynomore:*Congratulations!







Sometimes one IC fixes it. Keep a couple in stock. Sony is sure not perfect, although when working, their CRT TVs were the best available.


----------



## Blessedon

Yes indeed, of all the work I have seen here mine is the worst. *BUT IT WORKS!*

You may not believe it to look at the soldering but the TV works just fine with the new chips.

I practiced on a junk board then tried my hand at the first (8002) chip. Had to fix a couple of obviously unworkable solders.










Rested and pondered what I had read over a cup of coffee.

Then went after the 6501 chip with considerably better results.










Plugged it in...success!

Can't thank you all enough!!!!!


----------



## jdre









A little too much on a couple, but a good connection is made







Enjoy!


----------



## Scott03Z06

Time to call the experts for me. Mine's a 34HS510, had the 6 blinks of the standby lights and decided to replace 6501 & 8002 (I also added sockets).


I did have one of the chips installed backwards but luckily I had installed sockets and had a purchased 3 chips so I replaced the one I had installed backwards. Think I would have hurt anything else being installed backwards?


Symptoms now are: Turn on TV, hear the degauss, hear a relay with 3 blinks of the standby light (no repeat) and hear a relay again. I do not hear the CRT charge up so there is still something wrong.


Anyone know of a good repair outfit in Orlando, FL?


----------



## jdre

I had the same experience see Page 15 of this topic. I had a cut trace (from cutting plastic) right below C8080 in the picture. Also recheck your soldering of the sockets, chip installation (no bent pins, both notches outward towards left when looking at TV from rear). Hopefully, it will then work for you


----------



## meademac

Did the fix with 2 sockets and replaced both IC chips, removed board and tipped

vertical. Plugged in and success. Spent $28.91 shipped for 4 chips at Tristate module. I am ready with 2 extra IC chips to plug/play if it goes out again. Thanks to all contributors , this is a great solution to keep these great TV's going and out of the landfills. I have done limited soldering, don't be afraid to

attempt this fix. Just take your time read the posts/view pics here and be patient. Thanks again Meade


----------



## Crstfr

Hopefully i can keep this going... after 9 great yrs.. my KD-34xs955 is on the "blink"







.... but my blinks i cant tell if there's a break... .. i started counting, and i didn't see a pause... but i counted like 7 blinks, like 3 times in a row.... so Ive pulled the service manual, found both the IC 6501/8002 chips on Board DZ... and have ordered them off ebay for 11$ shipped.. i'm hoping this is my issue.. i've been reading this thread, and i haven't seen anyone with an xs955 with the same issue.. i'm hoping its accross the board with these two IC's..


any help would be appreciated.... so many smart individuals in this group... i'm proud to be a member!


Chris


----------



## jdre

Be careful with your desoldering/soldering and you have a good chance of success. The XS955 has the same circuitry on DZ board as the older sets on the D board.


----------



## Crstfr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17554956
> 
> 
> Be careful with your desoldering/soldering and you have a good chance of success. The XS955 has the same circuitry on DZ board as the older sets on the D board.





Thanks JDRE for your reply!... . i have a buddy thats has done alot more soldering than me..... i'm assuming those are the same chips and issues accross the board... i'm right to start there?....


----------



## rancher33

I just wanted to thank everyone on this forum for their input on "the fix".

My KD-34XBR960 is back to life thanks to this thread. Replaced the 2 chips and everything worked immediately. $20.00 for the chips and shipping from TSM.

Thanks again everyone....


----------



## SonyNoGo

Hello Everyone,

Fantastic thread you have here. Been reading for to 6 hours and think I'm ready to bite the bullet. Before I past the point of no return I wonder if some on could confirm that my trouble is the same issue covered here. I've read 70-80 percent of the posts, but I'm still not totally clear that my issue is the same as discussed here.


I share the symptom of the set requiring ever increasing periods of being unplugged until a small power blip put and end to the 'easy fix'. After nearly 6 weeks of not being plugged in, I still only get sound. And there in lies my question: This thread references "no power on with blinking lights". My KV-36XBR400 does "power on" and produces sound, but no video. I don't know how many "blinks" it delivered, although it didn't seem like a lot. I can't count the blinks now, because I already removed the "Tray" on which the "D" board is mounted. (Seemed to me to be a lot easier to remove then laying that big monster over or trying to work upside down).


Anyway, there in lies my question:

Does the presence of audio change the diagnoses?


Also, this my first posting to any forum, so I apologies in advance for breaking any rules of ettiquette.


----------



## jkellow354

Thanks to all. It takes alot of time - your time to have a successful board like this.

Based on the information I got from this thread I just, and mean just, replaced both of the ICs on the "D" board. It did not require anything more than a soldering iron, a de-soldering bulb, 2 sockets(optional), the two IC's, an inch of solder and the confidence provided by those of you who took the time to explain how to do it.


Thanks again !


----------



## unome

Hello everyone. Another Sony CRT saved from going to the landfill. Mine is a KV-36HS510 bought in '04

I replaced both chips without removing the board and didn't use sockets. Soldering is no big deal to me. I had all the tools from working on my Ford Explorer radio display so the hardest part was dealing with the weight of this puppy.

The chips removed were rev B.

It is only my first night so I am hopeful it will last a few years but we'll see.

Oh yeah, thanks to everyone who outlined this repair.


----------



## Blessedon

 http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20091118/...rnia_tv_energy 


My wife and I have been smiling over the above news that our rescued CRT uses less juice than a "modern" TV.

Benchmark quality video while saving the planet!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyNoGo* /forum/post/17577405
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Fantastic thread you have here. Been reading for to 6 hours and think I'm ready to bite the bullet. Before I past the point of no return I wonder if some on could confirm that my trouble is the same issue covered here. I've read 70-80 percent of the posts, but I'm still not totally clear that my issue is the same as discussed here.
> 
> 
> I share the symptom of the set requiring ever increasing periods of being unplugged until a small power blip put and end to the 'easy fix'. After nearly 6 weeks of not being plugged in, I still only get sound. And there in lies my question: This thread references "no power on with blinking lights". My KV-36XBR400 does "power on" and produces sound, but no video. I don't know how many "blinks" it delivered, although it didn't seem like a lot. I can't count the blinks now, because I already removed the "Tray" on which the "D" board is mounted. (Seemed to me to be a lot easier to remove then laying that big monster over or trying to work upside down).
> 
> *Anyway, there in lies my question:
> 
> Does the presence of audio change the diagnoses?*
> 
> Also, this my first posting to any forum, so I apologies in advance for breaking any rules of ettiquette.



One person over on the Agoraquest "Television Troubleshooting" forum replaced the "Q5015 and Q5016" components on the D board in addition to one of the MCZ3001D ICs to fix this same problem.


Check out the following thread for additional details:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....30362&forum=34 


BTW, I'm "BobF" in that thread.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## jdre

*crstfr* Go ahead and replace the MCZ3001D ICs.
*Everyone else* Congratulations on your repair successes!


----------



## SonyNoGo

Thanks Bob! I'll check it out.


----------



## Crstfr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17583419
> 
> *crstfr* Go ahead and replace the MCZ3001D ICs.
> *Everyone else* Congratulations on your repair successes!




Thanks JDRE,,,, i received my socket's and IC's.... so hopefully this weekend!


thanks agian!


----------



## Wilson0279737

kv-32hs510, both mcz ic's have been replaced, and now there are three blinks non-repeating when i push the power button and i can hear a relay click. any ideas?


----------



## [email protected]

Dear All,


I'm giving up on a KV-32HS510. I've replaced the chips twice rechecked the solder and traced the connections. If anyone wants it and lives around the North MS area. you can contact me by email to pick it up, otherwise it will be dumpster city. It's been a fun project and I appreciate all your help. Just wished it would have worked.


----------



## [email protected]

Oh I forgot to mention that free dead KV-32HS510 still has the 7 blinks syndrome.


----------



## AVsensual

Depending on how much you love the TV, you could probably find a complete or partial board on ebay or something. Or try to find a cheap local guy who does electronics diagnostics and maybe do a cash deal say $50-60 or something to get it working. Hope this helps.


----------



## theweinger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theweinger* /forum/post/14448939
> 
> 
> Great thread, thanks for all the tips and help.
> 
> 6-7 blinks, got my parts already, will attempt to fix it this weekend with a friend that has soldering experience.
> 
> 
> I know I'm not completely objective but is there any flat screen out there that provides same quality as my 5 years old set?



....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theweinger* /forum/post/14481915
> 
> 
> Well, Great news. My *34XBR800* is working again. Just replaced IC8002 and it's on!
> 
> Thank you everyone for the ideas tips and walkthroughs. You saved me time, hassle and lots of money.
> 
> 
> Special Thanks to *eclipsedave* for the great pictures!
> 
> 
> Football season in 2 weeks so just in time




Well... 15 months later and my *34XBR800* died again, this time it look serious!?

right on Thanksgiving 30min', before the first game. No video or audio. When turned on the STBY light blink *randomly* (3-10 blinks) and dies as well.


I was just starting to look for causes and repairs, but the wife said "enough is enough". And for the 1st time in my life I was shopping on Black Friday (Bought a Panasonic G15 50" Plasma)


I'm long way from finishing breaking and calibrating it, but I'm skeptic about it ever matching the quality of the XBR


See you at the Plasma forum...


----------



## dbeaup

I worked on my sony KV34HS510 (6&7 blink code ) over the weekend. After replacing the two chips on the D board the set worked great and boy was I proud ! Ten hours later the picture faded out and the set powered down. Prior to the repair the set never shut down when in operation , just had a lot of trouble tuning the set on .

Anyway I ordered more chips and wonder if I get get advise on any thing else to check this time around. I don't have much experience with pcb's but am willing to try if someone can point me in the right direction .


Thanks Dave


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbeaup* /forum/post/17629877
> 
> 
> I worked on my sony KV34HS510 (6&7 blink code ) over the weekend. After replacing the two chips on the D board the set worked great and boy was I proud ! Ten hours later the picture faded out and the set powered down. Prior to the repair the set never shut down when in operation , just had a lot of trouble tuning the set on .
> 
> Anyway I ordered more chips and wonder if I get get advise on any thing else to check this time around. I don't have much experience with pcb's but am willing to try if someone can point me in the right direction .
> 
> 
> Thanks Dave



You might want to double check _anything_ that you disconnected for the repair.


If you used sockets, make sure that the ICs are firmly seated.


You might want to reflow all of your new solder connections.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## Blessedon

Sorry to hear of your troubles. A few others seem to have had similar experiences and this has me wondering if my joy in my restored set will be brief for not replacing the other four items listed on the TSM site 


As I do not exactly understand which supporting parts they are referring to on the D board, I wish someone would post a photo pointing to what they are; I would go in again and replace them if I knew.


Best of luck there *dbeaup*


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/17630242
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear of your troubles. A few others seem to have had similar experiences and this has me wondering if my joy in my restored set will be brief for not replacing the other four items listed on the TSM site
> 
> 
> As I do not exactly understand which supporting parts they are referring to on the D board, I wish someone would post a photo pointing to what they are; I would go in again and replace them if I knew.
> 
> 
> Best of luck there *dbeaup*



I've been reading online repair reports for three years now and I have seen very few reports of repaired sets failing. My KV-36XBR400 has been working perfectly for three years now and I only replaced the MCZ3001D ICs.


If your set is working fine I would just leave it alone. "It it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind.


----------



## Blessedon

*RobertF*, You know; you're absolutely right! Thanks!


----------



## jdre

*Wilson0279737* Read my posts on * Page 15 * of the forum, I had this problem. Check your work, chip orientation, and look for a cut in the board trace if you used the "cut plastic" technique to get at the chips. Should be working after that, hopefully!


----------



## Crstfr

ok...so i have the tv apart..... i see the DZ board since i'm working on the KD -34sx955...... but there are two wires i cannot figure out. ... they both come from the DZ board to the small circuit board on the back of the tube... from the looks of it, where they connect to the DZ baord, .. that controller is soldered down... also one runs to an opening in the back of the tube itself... from this same box on the DZ.. ... i can try to explain better... but help!!! i want my tv back!...


----------



## Wilson0279737

jdre,

I looked at your post on pg15 and checked all connections to the chips. Every thing seems to be fine but the set still has three non-repeating blinks.


----------



## DB1342

Looking for advise... I have a Sony KV-32HS510 with the 6 blink issue. I've read thru many posts about the chip replacement, so I ordered some to give that a try. When they arrive, I'd like to get going on it. I've had my TV unplugged for week, and I'm wondering if I can do the chip replacement without having to disconnect any wires from the D board. I've cut the plastic support to expose both the chips on the bottom side of the D board. I have quite a bit of desoldering experience, but just not on a TV repair, so I have some concern about any high voltage remaining in the circuit that I should be aware of. I though I read in one post that if the TV is unplugged for approx 4 hours all the caps should be dischaged, but most posts talk about removing the D board before replacing the chips. Anyone have some good advise for a TV repair rookie....Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DB1342* /forum/post/17657261
> 
> 
> Looking for advise... I have a Sony KV-32HS510 with the 6 blink issue. I've read thru many posts about the chip replacement, so I ordered some to give that a try. When they arrive, I'd like to get going on it. I've had my TV unplugged for week, and I'm wondering if I can do the chip replacement without having to disconnect any wires from the D board. I've cut the plastic support to expose both the chips on the bottom side of the D board. I have quite a bit of desoldering experience, but just not on a TV repair, so I have some concern about any high voltage remaining in the circuit that I should be aware of. I though I read in one post that if the TV is unplugged for approx 4 hours all the caps should be dischaged, but most posts talk about removing the D board before replacing the chips. Anyone have some good advise for a TV repair rookie....Thanks



You absolutely do not have to remove the two wires from the D-Board Flyback to replace the ICs. One method is to rotate the D-Board up into the "Service Position". That is described in detail earlier in this thread. (I'm sorry but I don't have the page number for that discussion. Perhaps another forum member can point to it.)


On the risk of an electrical shock, just be careful what you touch and you should have no problems.


Since you have a lot of desoldering experience the repair should go very smoothly. For my repair, desoldering was the most difficult step.


Bob


----------



## DB1342

Thank you for the advise Bob, and I appreciate the quick response. I was very happy when I went to the mail box today to find the chips I ordered from ebay. So, with your wisdom and all the other very helpful, knowledgable posts in this forum, I hope to have our TV working again here shortly. Hopefully I can report back with another success story.

Thank you!!!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DB1342* /forum/post/17658593
> 
> 
> Thank you for the advise Bob, and I appreciate the quick response. I was very happy when I went to the mail box today to find the chips I ordered from ebay. So, with your wisdom and all the other very helpful, knowledgable posts in this forum, I hope to have our TV working again here shortly. Hopefully I can report back with another success story.
> 
> Thank you!!!



You're welcome.


If you do disconnect anything, take photos and/or label the connectors. That will simplify reassembly. If you're using sockets, test fit the ICs before installing the sockets. Sometimes the IC legs need to be bent slightly and that's a lot easier to do before the sockets are installed.


Also, I posted some details regarding my repair over on the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting Forum here:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic...._page_number=7 


(My User ID over there is "BobF")


There are also many excellent tips posted by other forum members in that thread.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## rtmach

It sounds like your using the fix it from the bottom method, so you don't have to disconnect any wires. I've done it a few times and found the best way is to pull the tray and clamp it in place,it's easier to get to the front chip, then tilt the tv forward onto a table or the stand with it resting on pillows. Pull up a chair, bright light and magnifying glass. A good tip I read here was as you are de-soldering and soldering turn off your front work light and put a bright light behind the board to check and see if you removed all solder and too make sure there's no pin holes after soldering. also the magnifying glass really helped me a lot, but I don't see too well, good luck


----------



## mission76

I have the Sony KV34XBR910...had it for 6 years now. A few weeks ago my parents did some home renovations and my windows were left open which caused a lot of renovation debris and dust to fall into my room and of course into the TV which was located right underneath that window...I saw that and knew this was going to happen. Anyway I have the six blinks and will attempt repair on my own thanks to this site. Just had a few questions though


1-It seems there is some debate as to putting the tv on its face or removing the D board. Honestly I think it would be easier to remove the board but how much other stuff do you have to disconnect to do this? If it's just a matter of taking out the screws then fine..but there are a lot of little cables and connectors that strech across the circuit board that I would rather not touch! If anyone has a link to pictures of the D board and the A board I would like to see them cause right now I'm looking at the back of the tv and there seem to be two giant circuit boards..but from pictures provided in earlier posts the "D board fit in the palm of a hand.

2-These IC chips 8002 and 6501..are they the same chip? The numbers match up on each one (MCZ3001D) so am I just ordering two of the same chips or are they different.

3-I do not use Ebay and haven't seen any links to reputable online stores that would sell these chips..from what I read some people bought defective chips, would rather jsut spend a few extra dollars on decent quality chips, anyone have any suggestions.

4-Small chance of this but since I opened up the tv there is a lot of dust and sut in it..what are the chances that this is what is making the tv fail? If I blow the dust out is there any chance that that will slove the problem? If I do blow the dust out, do I have to just buy cans and cans of compressed air or can I use a shop vac set to blow without damaging the components?


----------



## toyboy09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17666036
> 
> 
> I have the Sony KV34XBR910...had it for 6 years now. A few weeks ago my parents did some home renovations and my windows were left open which caused a lot of renovation debris and dust to fall into my room and of course into the TV which was located right underneath that window...I saw that and knew this was going to happen. Anyway I have the six blinks and will attempt repair on my own thanks to this site. Just had a few questions though
> 
> 
> 1-It seems there is some debate as to putting the tv on its face or removing the D board. Honestly I think it would be easier to remove the board but how much other stuff do you have to disconnect to do this? If it's just a matter of taking out the screws then fine..but there are a lot of little cables and connectors that strech across the circuit board that I would rather not touch! If anyone has a link to pictures of the D board and the A board I would like to see them cause right now I'm looking at the back of the tv and there seem to be two giant circuit boards..but from pictures provided in earlier posts the "D board fit in the palm of a hand.
> 
> 2-These IC chips 8002 and 6501..are they the same chip? The numbers match up on each one (MCZ3001D) so am I just ordering two of the same chips or are they different.
> 
> 3-I do not use Ebay and haven't seen any links to reputable online stores that would sell these chips..from what I read some people bought defective chips, would rather jsut spend a few extra dollars on decent quality chips, anyone have any suggestions.
> 
> 4-Small chance of this but since I opened up the tv there is a lot of dust and sut in it..what are the chances that this is what is making the tv fail? If I blow the dust out is there any chance that that will slove the problem? If I do blow the dust out, do I have to just buy cans and cans of compressed air or can I use a shop vac set to blow without damaging the components?



i placed the tv on it's face(with a blanket under the screen) and removed the screws and a few wires,which i took pictures of and taped an i.d. of location to each.i screwed up a bit 'cause 2 connectors on the right bottom(looking from rear)are exactly the same(one has a blue magic marker line and one has a green line)i did manage to connect them properly (i think) as the tv works properly.on ebay just check the feedback and you'll see in the feedback that people bought the chips for this very same reason and had success.i blew the dust out with my compressor.the entire board lifts out from 2 clips on the bottom.be carefull when you lift out the board(for better access) as the plastic tray holding the board is slightly fragile.the 2 chips are the same but could be newer/improved models.take a "multitool" with a small saw on it and CAREFULLY cut the plastic support under 1 of the chips.i also removed the wire with that rubber grommet and grounded it to remove any left over electricity(the rubber grommet connected to the tube.)

there is a service manual for this t.v. FREE on some sites...


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17666036
> 
> 
> I have the Sony KV34XBR910...had it for 6 years now. A few weeks ago my parents did some home renovations and my windows were left open which caused a lot of renovation debris and dust to fall into my room and of course into the TV which was located right underneath that window...I saw that and knew this was going to happen. Anyway I have the six blinks and will attempt repair on my own thanks to this site. Just had a few questions though
> 
> 
> 1-It seems there is some debate as to putting the tv on its face or removing the D board. Honestly I think it would be easier to remove the board but how much other stuff do you have to disconnect to do this? If it's just a matter of taking out the screws then fine..but there are a lot of little cables and connectors that strech across the circuit board that I would rather not touch! If anyone has a link to pictures of the D board and the A board I would like to see them cause right now I'm looking at the back of the tv and there seem to be two giant circuit boards..but from pictures provided in earlier posts the "D board fit in the palm of a hand.
> 
> 
> 2-These IC chips 8002 and 6501..are they the same chip? The numbers match up on each one (MCZ3001D) so am I just ordering two of the same chips or are they different.
> 
> 
> 3-I do not use Ebay and haven't seen any links to reputable online stores that would sell these chips..from what I read some people bought defective chips, would rather jsut spend a few extra dollars on decent quality chips, anyone have any suggestions.
> 
> 4-Small chance of this but since I opened up the tv there is a lot of dust and sut in it..what are the chances that this is what is making the tv fail? If I blow the dust out is there any chance that that will slove the problem? If I do blow the dust out, do I have to just buy cans and cans of compressed air or can I use a shop vac set to blow without damaging the components?



1. I would pick a method that you feel comfortable with. When I repaired my KV-36XBR400, I removed the slide-out chassis which holds the D-Board. But this required the disconnection of a red wire from the D-Board mounted flyback transformer (FBT) and the yoke-mounted C-Board. Disconnecting the wires from the flyback can be a challenge and I ended up cutting that wire and splicing it back together later. If I needed to repeat the repair today, I would leave the TV upright and just rotate the D-Board up into the "Service Position". There's good discussion of that method earlier in this thread.


Regarding your D-Board size question, I'm not familiar with your KV-34XBR910 but the D-Board is typically large. The D-Board in my set is about the size of a PC motherboard.


2. The 8002 and 6501 ICs are both MCZ3001D ICs.


3. You can buy high quality replacement ICs on eBay. As toyboy09 wrote, just check the seller's feeback. The ICs in my set were purchased on eBay and they're still working perfectly after three years. Also consider the MCZ3001D_B_ variant, which some feel might be an improved version.


4. I suppose your problem might be correctable by cleaning out the dust but I don't recall reading any reports where that has worked. But your case might be different because of the construction environment circumstances. I used an upright vacuum with a small attachment wand to clean the dust out of my TV. So that can be done safely.


Also, was the TV plugged in during the construction work? If so, maybe the failure was actually due to a voltage fluctuation due to the use of power tools or electrical re-wiring.


Finally, did you try just unplugging the TV for a while to see if that fixed things? Sometimes that simple step can reset things.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## superguppy

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I just picked up a supposedly working KV-34HS510 today only to find out that there's no video and I get the 6 blink problem. I've read some of this thread and know that replacing the two MCZ3001D ICs (IC8002 or IC6501) on the D board has worked for a lot of people. However, I just found the service manual for my model and it says that 6 blinks refers to:


LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)


and the probable causes are:


+5 line overloaded (A, B, M boards)

+5 line is shorted (A, B, M boards)

IC504 is faulty (A board)


Given that there's no mention of the D board, can someone please explain the discrepancy between what the service manual says and the solution that has worked for many on this forum? Also, does someone familiar with the service manual know if there are more explicit instructions in it regarding how to fix this issue?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *superguppy* /forum/post/17670432
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm new to this forum. I just picked up a supposedly working KV-34HS510 today only to find out that there's no video and I get the 6 blink problem. I've read some of this thread and know that replacing the two MCZ3001D ICs (IC8002 or IC6501) on the D board has worked for a lot of people. However, I just found the service manual for my model and it says that 6 blinks refers to:
> 
> 
> LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)
> 
> 
> and the probable causes are:
> 
> 
> +5 line overloaded (A, B, M boards)
> 
> +5 line is shorted (A, B, M boards)
> 
> IC504 is faulty (A board)
> 
> 
> Given that there's no mention of the D board, can someone please explain the discrepancy between what the service manual says and the solution that has worked for many on this forum? Also, does someone familiar with the service manual know if there are more explicit instructions in it regarding how to fix this issue?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Does your blink sequence repeat? In other words, does the standby light blink six times, pause, and blink six times again? If it doesn't repeat it's not a diagnostic code.


If it does repeat, the code is just intended to point an experienced service technician towards a probable cause. But that doesn't mean that the actual problem isn't something that's not listed, such a failed MCZ3001D IC.


MCZ3001D IC problems are so common many people will just try that first.


----------



## superguppy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/17670655
> 
> 
> Does your blink sequence repeat? In other words, does the standby light blink six times, pause, and blink six times again? If it doesn't repeat it's not a diagnostic code.



Yes, my blink sequence does repeat. 6 blinks, 3 second pause, 6 blinks etc.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *superguppy* /forum/post/17670432
> 
> 
> Given that there's no mention of the D board, can someone please explain the discrepancy between what the service manual says and the solution that has worked for many on this forum? Also, does someone familiar with the service manual know if there are more explicit instructions in it regarding how to fix this issue?



Hi there


The cause of diagnostic codes is rarely comprehensively documented. The D board is the TV's power supply. It is not mentioned in the failure description because the D board itself is the source of the diagnostic failure. The possible failures listed for 6 blinks are external to the power supply that should be checked if the power supply was fully operational.


Be careful in reading TV service manuals. The intended audience is an experienced TV repair technician. There are minimal troubleshooting guides and replacement sequences, unlike auto repair guides.


The most "explicit instructions in ... how to fix this issue" are in this thread. In this thread a professional TV repair tech reports that his shop always replaces these two chips for the 6 or 7 blinks, and get a 90% repair success.


Regards


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17666036
> 
> 
> I have the Sony KV34XBR910...had it for 6 years now. A few weeks ago my parents did some home renovations and my windows were left open which caused a lot of renovation debris and dust to fall into my room and of course into the TV which was located right underneath that window...I saw that and knew this was going to happen. Anyway I have the six blinks and will attempt repair on my own thanks to this site. Just had a few questions though
> 
> 
> 1-It seems there is some debate as to putting the tv on its face or removing the D board. Honestly I think it would be easier to remove the board but how much other stuff do you have to disconnect to do this? If it's just a matter of taking out the screws then fine..but there are a lot of little cables and connectors that strech across the circuit board that I would rather not touch! If anyone has a link to pictures of the D board and the A board I would like to see them cause right now I'm looking at the back of the tv and there seem to be two giant circuit boards..but from pictures provided in earlier posts the "D board fit in the palm of a hand.
> 
> 2-These IC chips 8002 and 6501..are they the same chip? The numbers match up on each one (MCZ3001D) so am I just ordering two of the same chips or are they different.
> 
> 3-I do not use Ebay and haven't seen any links to reputable online stores that would sell these chips..from what I read some people bought defective chips, would rather jsut spend a few extra dollars on decent quality chips, anyone have any suggestions.
> 
> 4-Small chance of this but since I opened up the tv there is a lot of dust and sut in it..what are the chances that this is what is making the tv fail? If I blow the dust out is there any chance that that will slove the problem? If I do blow the dust out, do I have to just buy cans and cans of compressed air or can I use a shop vac set to blow without damaging the components?



As to where to buy from? I would try TSM (Tristatemodule.com). If the web site don't show instock just call them, they do have them even if it does not show. I am replacing them in a friends TV here this week and had gone to them before and the website didn't show in stock, but when I called they said they just didn't have it updated recently (but had like hundreds in stock).

Also, since I am replacing them in his, I will make sure to take pics and if you can wait a little longer I will post them. I remove the D-board and set it in an upright position (for his though it wouldn't be on the matching stand. but you can do this on the stand, if that is what you have?). I will take pics of all the necessary wires/connectors to disconnect and show positions. But, keep in mind that yours might be slightly different (minor differences I am sure. Most these TVs are very similar inside).


Be around Thursday or Friday when I get the pics on here.


I hope these pics will help others, too.


----------



## rtmach

Here is some pics of my method for the bottom repair in case you don't want to pull the board out. this is the kv40xbr800 that I fixed last,ouch my back still hurts. I was able to set it on it's front by myself but I don't recommend it for one this big,I also did my 36 inch this way.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *superguppy* /forum/post/17670432
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm new to this forum. I just picked up a supposedly working KV-34HS510 today only to find out that there's no video and I get the 6 blink problem. I've read some of this thread and know that replacing the two MCZ3001D ICs (IC8002 or IC6501) on the D board has worked for a lot of people. However, I just found the service manual for my model and it says that 6 blinks refers to:
> 
> 
> LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)
> 
> 
> and the probable causes are:
> 
> 
> +5 line overloaded (A, B, M boards)
> 
> +5 line is shorted (A, B, M boards)
> 
> IC504 is faulty (A board)
> 
> 
> Given that there's no mention of the D board, can someone please explain the discrepancy between what the service manual says and the solution that has worked for many on this forum? Also, does someone familiar with the service manual know if there are more explicit instructions in it regarding how to fix this issue?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



To give it in say "laymen" terms.

Basically what RobertF and blue_z are saying is that....

If the MCZ3001D chips were working to their specs then the problem would be what the manual says. BUT, since these chips have a high failure rate (_Sony nor any manufacture of electronics would have that in their manual, unless it is an updated version where they may mention it and suggest another solution. but being that it is electronics and is out of date within a year they more then likely won't update them that way_). Now I am sure when Sony was making the TV and the manual for, they were sitting there thinking....well what if this chip bad? should it give a separate code?....NO! they will assume that what they use will always work the way it was intended to. OK, with that said. These chips are like middle men in the chain of events to come up with the troubleshooting circuitry's displayed problem to why the TV will not come on for you. In other words, if the chips fail (burn up, short, whatever will cause them not to be working properly) they will give a false reading to the monitoring circuit and in turn the monitoring circuit will think it is the problem of what that input is telling it. And to the monitoring circuit it is a LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage) problem.

Those (MCZ3001D) chips are the link between the LOW +B OCP/OVP and the monitoring circuit that gives the codes to let a repairman locate where to look for a solution. Any repairman will tell you that is just a starting point to troubleshoot and is not the actual problem. Sometimes it is just the fault of the monitoring "chip" (yes it is most likely another chip that looks at all these different inputs and says "check here for solution").

It took me a lot of searching to find someone with some knowledge of (and experience with) these MCZ chips going bad. I was much like you when first searching, got the manual and it said this or that was problem. But after reading and getting guys like RobertF and JDRE with background on this issue. I just went and replaced and to my surprise "wala" WORKS!

Now! true! yours could be the LOW+B problem? We can't say for 100% fact it is the MCZ chips. But, with most it is the chips and not to many around said the power circuitry failed like the manual says it should be the fault. Which would you believe it to be?? That's the question you have to ask?


Sorry for the long post..Hope it helps though?

Thanks for everyone's support and input here.


----------



## nota

my sony wega 32hd just failed and is giving the 6 blinks

at first it was slow to power on but a few trys would come on

yesterday it took 2 hours of pressing on/off to finally come on

today nothing


as my skills at soldering are poor

and I have no tools to desolder

is there anyone in the miami area

who wants to make a few bucks

to replace the chips


or can recommend some who can do this repair


I am in south dade [cutler ridge/bay]

and can be reached at 305 252 3710 ask for ray


----------



## nota

next days update


sunday the set took about 2 hours of intermittent turning on and off

before finally coming on stayed on fine and returned on after being turned off


monday never did turn on all day long tryed unplugging no luck


tuesday turned on after a few trys turned off for 2 hours came back on


always 6 blinks when not turning on , I could hear the relays clicking


so is this a standard bad 18 pin chips story ??????

the set has never turned it's self off just fails to turn on

and will restart fine if it has been on [ still hot quick check on/off/on]


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nota* /forum/post/17684610
> 
> 
> next days update
> 
> 
> sunday the set took about 2 hours of intermittent turning on and off
> 
> before finally coming on stayed on fine and returned on after being turned off
> 
> 
> monday never did turn on all day long tryed unplugging no luck
> 
> 
> tuesday turned on after a few trys turned off for 2 hours came back on
> 
> 
> always 6 blinks when not turning on , I could hear the relays clicking
> 
> 
> so is this a standard bad 18 pin chips story ??????
> 
> the set has never turned it's self off just fails to turn on
> 
> and will restart fine if it has been on [ still hot quick check on/off/on]



My 36 inch did that for awhile ,then I found this thread and went ahead and replaced the chips before it went off for good. that was the problem and has worked fine since then.


----------



## nota

I wonder if leaving the set on but on a blank channel would hurt it

as a temp measure intil I can get the chips and find someone to replace them


----------



## rtmach

someone earlier in the thread did that and he said it worked till the power was turned off, from what I remember it was OK. look back thru the thread and see what he said about it.


----------



## mission76

Well I just got the actual chips and are now just waiting for the sockets to come..but I think tommorrow I'm going to start and attempt to remove the hopefully defective chips out of the tv. I'm thinking about running out to best buy for a digital camera to take pictures of how it looks before I actually take it out. Anyway just a few questions before I go ahead and do this.


Those brigde connectors that are in the middle of the right and left boards, are those just clips to hold the boards together, or do they serve a purpose like relaying infomation between the boards. I just wanted to know how much care I needed to use in removing them. Plus i hear that the chips are sometimes a pain to get into the sockets and need to be rolled or something..can I do this before I solder in the sockets just dry fit them, then remove and solder in the socket then put the chip back?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17685486
> 
> 
> .... *Plus i hear that the chips are sometimes a pain to get into the sockets and need to be rolled or something..can I do this before I solder in the sockets just dry fit them, then remove and solder in the socket then put the chip back?*



Yes, you can test fit and adjust the ICs legs before you install the sockets. In fact that's highly recommended.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17685486
> 
> 
> Those brigde connectors that are in the middle of the right and left boards, are those just clips to hold the boards together, or do they serve a purpose like relaying infomation between the boards. I just wanted to know how much care I needed to use in removing them. Plus i hear that the chips are sometimes a pain to get into the sockets and need to be rolled or something..can I do this before I solder in the sockets just dry fit them, then remove and solder in the socket then put the chip back?



Those are wire connectors (mostly power. ie: +15v,-15v,etc). They can be disconnected to allow the removal of either board. It is tricky but with a tiny screw driver and small fingers







. Multiple screws and a couple clips (on the outside of board near the flyback trans and usually bad ICs) hold the board in place.


I haven't gotten into friends TV just yet to take pics, but plan on taken a bunch to show how I do it (I remove the D-board, to an extent).


----------



## mission76

Ok just started trying to take out the board..I bought a small ratcheting screwdriver from sears for like 10 dollars which really helped with getting the screws out. Just can't seem to get these bridge clips out, any tips..maybe I'm overlooking a previous posting on how to open them. I managed to get the two on the top right of the board but that was after alot of stuggling. Is there an easy way to unclip them..not going to be able to fnaggle the other two like I did those, they're too close together. One more thing, the large grey "tower" looking object on the bottom left of the d board that has the wires running out with one of them going into the iron tub at top of screen..does that come out or I leave that be?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17690759
> 
> 
> Ok just started trying to take out the board..I bought a small ratcheting screwdriver from sears for like 10 dollars which really helped with getting the screws out. Just can't seem to get these bridge clips out, any tips..maybe I'm overlooking a previous posting on how to open them. I managed to get the two on the top right of the board but that was after alot of stuggling. Is there an easy way to unclip them..not going to be able to fnaggle the other two like I did those, they're too close together. *One more thing, the large grey "tower" looking object on the bottom left of the d board that has the wires running out with one of them going into the iron tub at top of screen..does that come out or I leave that be?*



The grey tower is the Flyback Transformer or FBT. The difficulty in removing the red wires has been the subject of much discussion. You can actually replace the ICs without disconnecting the wires. One method involves rotating the D-Board up into the service position. See Post #336 and those below it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post15223748 


Bob


----------



## mission76

Oh man thanks for that..it helped a lot, black bridges have been disconnected and I am estactic to say that the d-board is now at 90 degrees and i can see where all the soldering needs to take place. Now just a few more questions...can I solder this at 90 degrees or will the sodler just run down the board and I see a few people were against the sockets so did the people who did use sockets have a higher fail rate than the non socket users or was it just a preference?


EDIT: I went ahead and attempted to desolder one of the chips..didn't come out as easy as I thought. Maybe the desoldering braid isn't getting hot enough with the 15 watt iron I bought? I think tommorrow I'm going to grab a cheap vachum pump from RS and try that. I ended up having to pull the chip out with a needle nose plier even after using the braid, just hope nothing else is getting damaged during all of this.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17691183
> 
> 
> Oh man thanks for that..it helped a lot, black bridges have been disconnected and I am estactic to say that the d-board is now at 90 degrees and i can see where all the soldering needs to take place. Now just a few more questions...can I solder this at 90 degrees or will the sodler just run down the board and I see a few people were against the sockets so did the people who did use sockets have a higher fail rate than the non socket users or was it just a preference?
> 
> 
> EDIT: I went ahead and attempted to desolder one of the chips..didn't come out as easy as I thought. Maybe the desoldering braid isn't getting hot enough with the 15 watt iron I bought? I think tommorrow I'm going to grab a cheap vachum pump from RS and try that. *I ended up having to pull the chip out with a needle nose plier even after using the braid, just hope nothing else is getting damaged during all of this.*



You really don't want to apply force to pull the IC out. The very real risk is that you can pull up some of the PCB trace material and potentially ruin your chances of a repair. Be sure to keep cutting off the end of the braid that has solder in it and take your time.


Regarding the socket failure rate, I just haven't seen many reports of that. I've had zero problems with the sockets I installed three years ago. I think the sockets are more of a benefit to those less experienced with soldering and desoldering. I personally would use them again but I understand that some service technicians don't recommend them.


----------



## DB1342

My KV-32HS510 is alive again. This 5 year old TV had the 6 blink issue.

I replace both IC's 6501 & 8002 using sockets that I purchased from Ebay. I replaced both of them at the same time so I don't know which one, if not both were bad. Tried to take some pictures during the process to share, but my camera wouldn't focus in nearly as well as some of the pictures posted on this forum.

I repaired this by laying the TV face down and removing the back cover, it had been unplugged for a week, but I don't believe that amount of time is neccessary for the caps to discharge. Removing the rear cover exposes the bottom of the D board where I located the two IC's. I did not want to mess around with removing the D board at all, and with Bob's advise, I left it in place during the repair and didn't have to worry about any residual power remaining in the circuit. The only thing I needed to do before unsoldering was to remove the plastic support that covered part of one of the chips solder joints. I unsoldered the joints with a 40w iron and used a "solder sucker" (see attached). This worked great. A couple joints needed to be reheated to completely free the joints. I did this by using a pencil tip and the iron. While heating the lead, I gently wiggled the lead a bit while removing the heat. Then that lead was completely free. The chips came right out.

I then installed the sockets (with the new chips already installed) and resoldered them. Cleaned up the solder joints with a Q-tip and rubbing alchol to remove the the flux. Put the cover back on, plugged it in and success, the TV was working again. I did take the advise from rtmach to shine a light from the chip side to look for pin holes, and discovered a couple joints that needed touch up. So, for $10 I was able to repair this TV with the aid and experience of all the wonderful advise within this post. Maybe now with the money I saved on the repair, I can go get a better camera. Thank you all!!!!!!!! Doug


----------



## jdre

*Mission76* Use 1/8 wide braid with *30* watt iron. Works fast. You want to see empty space around the pins, pins loose in the holes, then remove chip. The new chip may need to have the legs bent inward so they are vertical, not splayed outward. Good luck, hope to hear about success!

*DB1342* Congratulations! Good tips. My 32HS510 has worked a year of regular use since its repair so far.


----------



## mission76

I don't believe it....IT WORKED!!!!!!


Thanks so much to all those who posted on this topic and especially those like Rob, Mark, and JDRE who answered my stupid questions with the quickness! I can't believe it's actually working, and for basically 40 dollars! This site saved me at least 1500 on a new tv. Thanks again for all the help, this is now on my favorite list for web sites!!!!!!!!


But one more question...when I turn it on the standby button blinks like 10 times...between 5 and 7 the tv actually starts showing a picture, was that normal and I'm just being paranoid, or is that another code that I didn't fix all the problems?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mission76* /forum/post/17703912
> 
> 
> I don't believe it....IT WORKED!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Thanks so much to all those who posted on this topic and especially those like Rob, Mark, and JDRE who answered my stupid questions with the quickness! I can't believe it's actually working, and for basically 40 dollars! This site saved me at least 1500 on a new tv. Thanks again for all the help, this is now on my favorite list for web sites!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> But one more question...when I turn it on the standby button blinks like 10 times...between 5 and 7 the tv actually starts showing a picture, was that normal and I'm just being paranoid, or is that another code that I didn't fix all the problems?



Congratulations on your successful repair! Awesome.


I think there is a normal blink sequence when the TV is working properly. I'll try to check my set later. Maybe another forum member can comment on that.


----------



## Blessedon

Congratulations! I know how good that feels.


The red light is simply pulsing as it always has, you've just never noticed. It is it's way of saying _"yes, I know you just told me to turn on, I'm pulsing like this to show you I got the message and am warming up. Oh, and thanks for the new chips, I needed that!"_


...or something like that


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/17705519
> 
> 
> Congratulations! I know how good that feels.
> 
> 
> The red light is simply pulsing as it always has, you've just never noticed. It is it's way of saying _"yes, I know you just told me to turn on, I'm pulsing like this to show you I got the message and am warming up. *Oh, and thanks for the new chips, I needed that!* "_
> 
> 
> ...or something like that



Funny!


And all of these successful repair reports make me wonder how many of these wonderful TVs are sitting in landfills when a $6 IC could have fixed them.


----------



## advans13

what a christmas present. our 30" kv-30hs420 just went out. was watching the other night, came back out to watch some more tv, and it would power on and immediately power off.


after reading to check the lights, looks like 7 lights. can someone direct me to the correct parts to fix this







....kids are going crazy










thank you!


----------



## advans13

is this the right part x2? MCZ3001DB


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advans13* /forum/post/17741337
> 
> 
> is this the right part x2? MCZ3001DB



Yes and here's a link to the ones I bought on ebay , $16.98 delivered with sockets and they worked perfect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2PCS-NEW-ORIGINA...item20ae2be6f0 

there are other places also.


----------



## advans13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/17741407
> 
> 
> Yes and here's a link to the ones I bought on ebay , $16.98 delivered with sockets and they worked perfect.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/2PCS-NEW-ORIGINA...item20ae2be6f0
> 
> there are other places also.



do i need the sockets?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advans13* /forum/post/17742123
> 
> 
> do i need the sockets?



I was told by the guy who sells them and fixes tv's every day that because of the high voltage it's not recommended . but some people here have used them and some haven't . I didn't and had no problems. read all the posts and you can get a feel for the pro's and con's of each method and also if you want pull the board or cut the brace and do it without pulling the board. My personal opinion is cut the brace and no sockets . I think it would depend on your soldering skills, if your comfortable working with those small chips and can do them without tearing up the board or putting too much heat on the pins it's one less thing to do. I use a magnifying glass which makes it a lot easier to see your work as you take them out and then install, see my pics on the set-up I use.

good luck


----------



## jdre

Page 11 and 12, 4 of this topic (You have a sony that won't power on..) give you some pictures of what you are dealing with.


----------



## hansamurai

I've got a KD-30XS955, been great to me for 3.5 years now, but yesterday, my cat threw up on the top of the television and now I get three blinks and it won't turn on. He threw up in the back middle portion of, and according to my wife, "most of it landed on the wall" so it's a bit baffling what could have happened.


Anyone have any advice on where to start?


----------



## rtmach

Take the back off and look for any sign of the the spit up on the boards. I once had a sony that went off when my wife raised her arm next to it and yelled at me, turned out to be a cold solder joint not her. so it may just be a coincidence. any liquid on the board could cause a short but if the tv was on you would have known it.


----------



## hansamurai

Unfortunately I wasn't around when it happened, but my wife said the TV was on and in all of the confusion realized after she tried to clean it up that the TV was now off. Are you implying that there would have been smoke if something had shorted?


Once I get some time I'll open it up and clean it out. Sounds like a fun New Years Eve project (haha).


----------



## rtmach

maybe smoke maybe just electrical smell but the tv would have gone off, most likely with a snap sound.


----------



## hansamurai

Is the back of the TV complicated to remove? I took a quick scan of it yesterday and it just seemed like a lot of screws, anything I should be prepared for?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hansamurai* /forum/post/17770001
> 
> 
> Is the back of the TV complicated to remove? I took a quick scan of it yesterday and it just seemed like a lot of screws, anything I should be prepared for?



There are quite a few screws. Put them in a container or a ziploc bag so you don't lose any.


You might need to tip the TV forward _slightly_ to get the rear cover to release. Be careful since these TVs are very front heavy due to the tubes. I had to do this with my KV-36XBR400.


Bob


----------



## hansamurai

All right, bit of an update now that I'm home again. I left the TV unplugged for the last 24 hours and tried it again, the symptoms have changed...


The TV works! Unfortunately, all SD channels and inputs are almost completely whitewashed. It's a bit hard to explain but it's like the contrast is really really high or something.


All HD channels and inputs work though, which thankfully is 95% of what we use the television for.


So one big question: I still plan to open it up and try to clean it out, what is the best cleaning solution to use on the electronics? And has anyone seen symptoms like this before? I can take a picture if my description is lacking.


----------



## rtmach

Did you check your inputs, maybe the cat fell off and knocked something loose. which side did the cat throw up on? the tuners are on the left looking from the front, maybe just drying out will fix it. the good news is that the power supply "D board" is working and the problem could be on the A board where the tuners are. the bad news is that I don't think the A board has a thread like this. If you do see spit-up Q-tips. rubbing alcohol, compressed air and patience, unplug and wait till the caps discharge before cleaning. I just looked down the back of one of mine and those tuners are really exposed to spit-up. If you haven't opened it up yet, you can shine a flashlight from the top and see pretty good, you might see something interesting from the cat.the tuners are silver and have a bunch of holes in the tops of them.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hansamurai* /forum/post/17771710
> 
> 
> All right, bit of an update now that I'm home again. I left the TV unplugged for the last 24 hours and tried it again, the symptoms have changed...
> 
> 
> The TV works! Unfortunately, all SD channels and inputs are almost completely whitewashed. It's a bit hard to explain but it's like the contrast is really really high or something.



Hi there


Having the TV on while introducing a liquid is not optimal. Maybe now that it's dry, any shorts caused by the puke that shut it down are now gone. But apparently there's still residual damage. If just a small component burned up (e.g. one resistor), the amount of smoke and/or smell might not have been noticeable.



> Quote:
> So one big question: I still plan to open it up and try to clean it out, what is the best cleaning solution to use on the electronics?



All the cleaning stuff I've used in the past were rather toxic, and you probably could not obtain them anyway. They were all of the "use in well ventilated conditions" and rapidly evaporate. And re-liquifying the puke with a solvent does not sound like a good idea.


First attempt should probably be to dry the stuff up as best you can, and then brush and vacuum it up.


A _long_ #2 phillips screwdriver is useful in getting all the backcover screws out. I used a 10" one.


Regards


----------



## hansamurai

Thanks for all your tips. I'm going to be out of town until next Monday so this will give it a great opportunity to dry out.


I did check the inputs, even when nothing is plugged in the SD inputs show a milky white as opposed to black. It's very obvious that HD (component and HDMI) work great while composite is having some issues. Maybe some throw up landed on their controller or something?


Well, we'll know for sure in a week or so, sorry there won't be any more updates until then. I know you're all waiting with bated breath to see what cat puke can do to a television.


----------



## jdre

You may have a damaged board. I bought a Harman Kardon AVR235 receiver on ebay that same thing happened to. Board traces were corroded away in the preamp. Got it working however. Sometimes boards are on ebay, or you may find an obvious problem.


----------



## nota

I fixed my wega 32hd hs


it was doing the 6 blinks


got the chips and sockets off E-bay 10.00 with free shipping

radio shack de-solder wick 4.00

cheap dollar store iron 20 w for 2.00


to cut the plastic bar out

I drilled a 3/8'' hole in the bar [it is only a 1/8'' thick]

and used dikes to snip the sides in the hole


de-soldering took more time but gave nice clear holes

after about 3 passes

tv was on it's face on a big leather couch

only back cover and bar removed


re soldering in the sockets was eazy

prebent the legs on the chips as they were wide of the socket


a little struggle getting in the chip to seat


turned it on backless just to see and it lit up first time









so I guess I pass tv 101 first repair


THANKS TO EVERY ONE WHO POSTED HELP


----------



## advans13

awesome work...so i am not having the best of luck.


first of all, despite doing cap kits on arcade monitors, i found the vertical alignment of this board difficult (didnt take it out), and worked on it with the screen face down.


so i resolder, and plan to reflow one more time...i tried turning it on with the tv face down, and instead of making the degaussing sound, it just does the power "click" and no lights now besides the normal few blinks upon pressing the power button, no degauss, and it turns off immediately still. although, not sure if it needs the below to operate.


questions i have. does the tv need to be upright to work (silly i know). is there an interlock anywhere on my tv, that prevents operation with the cover off and the tv face down? again this is the kv-30hs420. perhaps i need to reset the code with the remote?


what are the symptoms of a blown fuse? might try replacing that as well.


thank you again! want to get this bugger fixed!


----------



## advans13

ahh! think i know what happened. after searching "click" within this thread, page 15ish, i believe i cut one of the traces somewhere when removing the plastic frame piece. actually i did quite a hack job on that wups.


from jdre - Wilson0279737 Read my posts on Page 15 of the forum, I had this problem. Check your work, chip orientation, and look for a cut in the board trace if you used the "cut plastic" technique to get at the chips. Should be working after that, hopefully!


guess i need a trace repair pen now...same exact symptoms "relay click" and just 3 non repeating blinks.


----------



## advans13

still no luck, same darn relay click....although it is degaussing now on power click. any ideas







????


----------



## stimshaw

I have done the IC replacements and now have the dreaded 3 flash then standby symptom. Resistance measurments show I have good connections (except for pin 18 of IC8002).

1200uf 250v electrolytic caps (C6503 & C6590) are rounded at the tops (bulging), indicating NG status, and I get quick overvoltage status on my Fluke before 3 flash then standby as measured on .1 ohm fusible link resistors.

R6536 is NG as it measures 2.3M ohm, should be 1k ohm (this resistor is in series with pin 18 of IC6501).

My question is:

PDF Service manual, DA-4 chassis (I have a KV34XBR800).

On page #230, IC8002 - Pin 18 doesn't show a connection, yet it must somehow connect to IC6501?

The voltage table on page 229 of this PDF manual show 306.1V to pin 18 on both ICs.

So they must connect? But how? I get 2+Mohm between both #18 pins so I am concerned.

Does anyone know exactly how Pin 18 of IC8002 connects?????

Thank you, Ed


----------



## bobk999

Thanks to everyone who has posted on the 6 blink problem, I would not have know where to begin to look. I have a just over 5 year old KD34XBR960 that recently started having the problem. I bought the TV along with a dvd player and a receiver. The dvd died over a year ago and the receiver makes a buzzing sound once it gets warmed up(not sure what is causing this?). With a little nudging or un-plugging I was able to get the set to turn on up until Friday when the death became permanent.

I don't have the new mcz3001db chips yet but did get the sockets from RadioShack. I worked on the DZ board by removing the plug-in connections except the FBT and flipping it up, the mcz3001db IC's are easy to get to since they are near the top. I did find that the 4 black plug connectors on the right side of the board are more easily released from the sides. My first observation upon seeing the underside of the board was the soldering points did not look all that great. I thought that IC6501 looked the worse out of the two. I completely removed the chips with the help of some desoldering braid and installed the sockets. I plugged in the old chips but I swapped their position and put everything else back together. I wanted to make I didn't make things worse and would still get the 6 blinks. I plugged in the set and now everything is working fine. Sounds like to me there might have been a cold soldering joint? If the problem returns I can just plug in 2 new IC's.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stimshaw* /forum/post/17799514
> 
> 
> I have done the IC replacements and now have the dreaded 3 flash then standby symptom. Resistance measurments show I have good connections (except for pin 18 of IC8002).
> 
> 1200uf 250v electrolytic caps (C6503 & C6590) are rounded at the tops (bulging), indicating NG status, and I get quick overvoltage status on my Fluke before 3 flash then standby as measured on .1 ohm fusible link resistors.
> 
> R6536 is NG as it measures 2.3M ohm, should be 1k ohm (this resistor is in series with pin 18 of IC6501).
> 
> My question is:
> 
> PDF Service manual, DA-4 chassis (I have a KV34XBR800).
> 
> On page #230, IC8002 - Pin 18 doesn't show a connection, yet it must somehow connect to IC6501?
> 
> The voltage table on page 229 of this PDF manual show 306.1V to pin 18 on both ICs.
> 
> So they must connect? But how? I get 2+Mohm between both #18 pins so I am concerned.
> 
> Does anyone know exactly how Pin 18 of IC8002 connects?????
> 
> Thank you, Ed



Some people have reported that a three blink problem after replacing the ICs was corrected by disconnecting and reconnecting everything they might have undone during the repair. So, if you haven't done that yet, you might want to give it a shot.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## hansamurai

Bit of an update after not using the television for a week... everything seems to work! Not sure if I still want to take the time to open it now... we'll see how I'm feeling this coming weekend.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hansamurai* /forum/post/17803009
> 
> 
> Bit of an update after not using the television for a week... everything seems to work! Not sure if I still want to take the time to open it now...



That's good news. No repair to worry about. Now all you should do is clean it up to prevent future problems, like corrosion.


Regards


----------



## jdre

*stimshaw:* On IC6501 Pin 18 goes to R6536 1K. On IC8002 Pin 18 and 17 are Not connected, I cross checked my picture on Page 15 and the schematics for 2 different Sonys with DA-4 chassis. Maybe you need to resolder R6536. If really open, replace. My set had a bit of a bulge in one of those caps. Replacement parts are easy to get at Digikey.com or Mouser.com. I used Digikey P11737-ND "CAP 1200UF 250V ELECT TS-HC" $6.05 each. They are a bit challenging to remove (glued down in my TV). Check all other plug connections and the black "bridges" to the A board are snapped down.

*hansamurai:* You have good luck







, it dried out.

*advans13:* I'd check the cut trace repair carefully with ohm meter. You might need to solder a wire across the cut(s). Board pen probably not good enough. I verified all IC pins were connected where the should, no solder bridges. Good luck, hope you succeed







Also check the bridges to A board, other plugs.

*Bobk999*You lucked out there! At least the new chips will go in easy. I get them from bdent.com. I have wondered if it's soldering, too. Sometimes, you can't see the tiny cracks.


----------



## stimshaw

JDRE: Thanks for the technical info about pin 18, I really appreciate it.

Yes, my 1K ohm R is really 2.5M as measured across it (shot).

I really would recomment that everyone replaces the 1200uf 250V caps as

poor regulations from these caps would most likely be the underlying issue

for chip failures. BTW digikey seem to be the most reasonable for these caps.

If you look into Sony parts places, they seem to want $38. a piece! Ouch!!!

I ordered the 1 1/8" dia. 3000hr @ 85deg. C. caps. Cheap! So cheap that you can spend the extra monies on fast shipping.

Thanks again, Ed


----------



## advans13

*advans13:* I'd check the cut trace repair carefully with ohm meter. You might need to solder a wire across the cut(s). Board pen probably not good enough. I verified all IC pins were connected where the should, no solder bridges. Good luck, hope you succeed







Also check the bridges to A board, other plugs.


i am just nervous about doing this, as some of them are the tiny traces really really close together. is there a way to use my multimeter to check if i really cut them that deep? what setting?


also what setting would i use to check my solder connections on the ic chips? 120lb paper weight's rock btw


----------



## moagir80

I got a model KV36HS510 tv. after replaced 2IC with MCZ3001db i end up with 3 blinks and then power off itself. Any suggestion.


----------



## advans13

same here moagir80


----------



## jdre

*advans13:*Use the Rx1 scale should read low ohms. Trace back to a solder location on each side of where you think you cut through, should get less than 1 ohm if OK. Check what the meter reads when you touch the probes together, and a good circuit reads close to that.

*moagir80:*Check the circuit as above. You may have cut a trace (especially if you cut the plastic frame). IC soldering needs a close inspection, check form pins to other parts in circuit, compare to service manual circuits (See schematicsforfree KV32HS500 .)


----------



## matterfact

Ok - read through this thread and need some advice. I have a Sony KP-51HW40 purchased back in 2002. Pretty good TV for the last 7 years. Thought it would last a bit longer than that tho. A few months ago started noticing the blue lines - I now understand from reading through this thread - were "retrace" lines. Then a few nights ago it started turning all blue then would power off with 8-blinks. Unplug, turn back on after a while - all blue and power off with 8 blinks. Stopped trying after a few times.


So, is this a Blue Tube problem or a D-Board problem? I'd hate to send away for a 8-blink repair kit only to find out it was a tube all the time. Should I try adjusting the "voltage / ray gun projection adjustment" as I have found here and elsewhere (somelifeblog)? Are tubes replaceable or is it time to go TVless for a while until the wife says it's ok to get that slim LCD with HDMI and such?


I found an online "dead kit" kit available online but haven't been able to get straight answers if this is really my problem or not.


Thanks in advance for your advice.


----------



## bobk999

Maybe someone can please help because I not sure what is going on.


After removing original MCZ3001db chips because of 6 blinks I soldered in sockets and put the chips back in(swapped their position) since I did not have the new ones yet. The kd34xbr960 now worked but after being on for a few hours started getting an occasional pop sound with a quick lose of picture, like a white static looking. This occured only while watching tv not dvd. Received new chips put them in and all was fine for a couple of days. Now it takes twice on the power button to get the tv on. First time it sounds right at first but does not turn on, get 3 blinks once and some relay sounds. Hit power button again and it works. Today I swapped the new chips positions and get 6 blinks. Put them back as installed the first time and requires twice power on. Tried original chips in original position and get 6 blinks, put in swapped position and it works. Have not run very long tonight so I have not seen as described above.


----------



## Tron717

I wanted to add my thanks to everyone on this board for showing me the way to repair my KV36HS510. It feels good to have it working again and I'm amazed how easy you can do things you've never done before with a little knowledge and confidence.


I replaced the 2 IC chips with sockets and new chips and it didn't work. The TV still would not turn on and blinked 6-7 times. As fate would have it, the guy I ordered the MCZ chips from off ebay made an error and sent another set, which I did not order, and they arrived a week after the first. I was ready to trash the TV before the second set arrived. I pulled the 1st set, put in the new set taking extra care to make sure I didn't bend the pins during placement, and made sure they were seated properly. I hit the power button and bingo, it now works. I'm going to be sure and pay the guy for the second set of chips as well.


I'll offer one tip when it comes to desoldering the pins. As I held the iron on the braid over the pins, I gently pushed the pin back and forth with a combination of the iron tip and the braid as leverage and as soon as the solder liquified, the braid drew up all of the solder. Do be careful not to push to hard and scratch the board. It was helpful for me to figure this out because it was my first working on a circuit board.


Take care and thanks again.


----------



## jdre

*Tron717:* Do you think it was just some imperfections in your first installation? I've heard of defective new chips before..Good to hear it's working!


----------



## Fizoore

Ok all, newbie here. I've got the 6 and 7 blinking led problem here. I've never solder or even removed before so I'm a little scared to jump into this project but I have no other choice, wife won't let me get another tv, dang her. I just ordered 2 sockets and 2 mcz3001db, I'm a little concerned about getting to the d board,I've read that some people completely removed and some just pit it in the service posistion, what's the best process please. Thanks to anyone that can help.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizoore* /forum/post/17880444
> 
> 
> I've read that some people completely removed and some just pit it in the service posistion, what's the best process please



Hi there


"Best" is subjective, but not butchering the chassis (and traces) is something to consider. I was able to keep the TV upright on the TV stand, pull out the "tray", and disconnect just enough cables & connectors to put the D board in a vertical position. The high-voltage cable does not have to be disconnected.


Regards


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/17881391
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> 
> "Best" is subjective, but not butchering the chassis (and traces) is something to consider. *I was able to keep the TV upright on the TV stand, pull out the "tray", and disconnect just enough cables & connectors to put the D board in a vertical position.* The high-voltage cable does not have to be disconnected.
> 
> 
> Regards



This is the method I would use. You really don't want to cut or try to pull out the high voltage wires that run to the flyback transformer (FBT).


Bob


----------



## Fizoore

Ok, that sounds like a good idea, I was kinda worried about the fly wire, to disconnect the d board , what all do I need to take off. Thank you all so much for the help. My parts should be here in a few days, I'm really looking forword to starting this project


----------



## avfreek

I wanted to take the time to say thank you to everyone who has taken the time to post information on this VERY informative thread. I have a Sony KV36HS20 which I bought back in 2001 for $2000. It started acting up with the 7 blink issue about 1 1/2 years ago. Same symtoms as described throughout this thead. TV would only turn on after it had been left off for a long period of time. It got progressively worse until the TV would no longer turn on at all. After it completely died 18 months ago, I was quoted prices of $300 plus parts for the repair. When I weighed the options, I decided it wasn't worth the money based on the TV prices at the time. I went and bought a Panny TH58PZ700U and put the Sony in a spare room as I couldn't bring myself to throw it away. Fast forward to last week where I was looking at the Sony and decided I either need to fix this thing or get rid of it. I had done some research on the web about this issue when it originally died and I never stumbled across this site. Fortunately for me, I did this time!


Just to level-set, I had NO prior soldering/desoldering experience. My repair did not go as smoothly as some of the other posts I've read. I performed my repair by sliding the tray out and placing in the service position. I was able to resolder and remove the IC8002 pretty easily. However, the IC6501 was a very different story. The layout of my board was different from a lot of the images that have been posted. On my board, the IC6501 is surrounded by a tall u-shaped metal bracket. It makes it very difficult to see and access. When I removed IC6501, I ended up slightly tearing on of the traces. This caused my quite a bit of grief as you could imagine.


Long story short, I had some VERY fine detail work to do by gently scraping the green coating on the board and exposing the copper trace. Once I did that, I soldered the respective IC leg from the copper trace. Sounds easy enough, but let me tell you how very difficult this was due to the placement of this chip.


Ultimately, with a little trial and error, I was able to successfully repair my tv -- it is was such a great feeling







to turn it on and hear that crt fire up!!!

I'm watching it right now and I forgot how nice a picture this set has. It was one of Sony's earlier HD ready sets.


So, the main lesson learned here for me is to be VERY patient and careful when removing the ICs.


Hope this helps someone. Good luck to anyone looking to perform this repair!


----------



## jdre

*fizoore:*Take a look at Page 15 of this topic, you will want to avoid causing the damage my 34HS510 had. You have to pull the chassis back (it releases in 2 spots from the front corners). Then remove the 7 or so Phillips screws from the D board, release the black bridge connectors (stiff), unplug any other wires from D on the front edge and center, release the 4? clips at the edges so you can raise the D board up 90 degrees. There may be a picture of that somewhere on this long topic. The board may need support, but you can work that way and avoid cutting the frame and accidentally the board.

*Avfreek:*36HS20 is different, but very similar (has another MCZ3001D on the A board as well). Glad to hear you saved it!


----------



## loopback

what a great thread with information of great value. thanks to those who have contributed to this thread and making it possible for folks like me to try and fix their Sonys.


got 7 blinks on my kd-34xbr960 and have spent almost my entire sunday tackling this. found this thread and started reading (till page 13). ordered the ICs from tristate which should arrive via 2 day service - i have rest of the tools. i opened up the tv by removing the back cover and discovered my challenge. i cant seem to 'slide' out the chassis assembly for the DZ board.


by observing the wires and position of the DZ board, my approach is not to remove the board completely, hence avoid disconnecting fbt and the other cable to the back of crt. i need access to the bottom of the DZ board and i cant seem to find the 'levers' that apparently needs to be pulled/lifted in order to move the chassis assembly. i am attaching some pics for clarity and hoping someone will walk me through on how to reach the bottom of the DZ board without removing all jumpers/connections.


i apologize for the fact that i didn't read through the entire thread but its kinda long (33 pages ). my frustration level is getting a bit high as i thought desoldering would be the big hurdle but i am stuck at not being able to slide out the chassis assembly. i am looking for specifics to guide me and again, my tv is 34xbr960. thanks.


----------



## loopback

forgot to add pics


haha. dont know how to do attachments here. apparently, i can install and work on a cisco crs but not this. atleast i could find some humor in it and laff


----------



## Fizoore

Ok got my ic's today and about to start my project, just wondering what kind of solder do you use, the guy at radio shack had no idea.???


----------



## loopback




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizoore* /forum/post/17902207
> 
> 
> Ok got my ic's today and about to start my project, just wondering what kind of solder do you use, the guy at radio shack had no idea.???



well i cant place URLs in threads yet. but search for '60/40 solder' at radio shack. should do the job.


btw, did you order the ICs from tristate and if yes, when did you place the order?


so far, they haven't even 'pulled' my order yet.i'd be lucky if they ship it out tomorrow. i feel like an idiot for paying expedited shipment.


----------



## loopback

I now have the TV face-down. i am pretty sure i can do the repair, once i get that gray panel out of the way. it seems to be held in place by those 3 black latches and two additional black notches at the sides (one of which is shown in the 2nd pic). i had a friend drop by earlier to give it a try and though we seem to 'get' how the panels are attached, we weren't able to remove them.


i promptly blamed my friend.


with these pics, i am hoping another owner of 34xbr960 might remember how to remove the silver panel or slide out the black panel out of the chassis. thanks.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizoore* /forum/post/17902207
> 
> 
> ... what kind of solder do you use?



Hi there,


From other (expert) recommendations, I use Kester "44" rosin core, .025 diameter. It is a fine wire, lead solder. The one pound spool is probably the smallest size.


Regards


----------



## micoinde

This SITE provided the needed information to successfully DIY repair my 34XBR910. Replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 on the D Board. MANY THANKS.


----------



## Fizoore

Ok, so I got the tv ready to go and gave the desolding a try...... Cheese and rice what a pain in the ars. I didn't even get 1 off. I used the braid and held the Ito on it for awhile and nothing, and suggestions. And I got my ic's from eBay


----------



## twilightmyst25

Wow this forum is awesome! anyway...I bought a used Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV-34XBR800 and it worked fine in the store. It was still turned on when the sales person unplugged it. We brought it home and it doesn't work. 6 to 7 flashes. I looked at the fuse by where the AC line comes in but it is fine. Would it be the MCZ3001D chips located on the D board? Or should the whole D board be replaced? I'm going to replace the MCZ3001D first, hopefully it will work. So many others had such luck with this so I'm feeling pretty good about it! I also read that it could be the chip located on the A-board....but I'm not sure where that on is.


----------



## loopback

my only update for today - received the parts from tristate. spent some more time on the chassis removal but no luck.


----------



## Tron717




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17876872
> 
> *Tron717:* Do you think it was just some imperfections in your first installation? I've heard of defective new chips before..Good to hear it's working!



Thanks! Feels good to have the tv back. It's still working like a charm btw. Good question. My guess is either the chips were defective, or more likely, a rookie like myself trying to solder chips on a circuit board didn't do something right. I could put the first set of chips back on the board and see if it was indeed the chips, but I don't want to mess with success. When I pulled one of the first set of chips from the socket, I noticed one of the pins was bent from being pushed into the socked. It was seated, but maybe it wasn't making contact.


My advice is to be patient, make sure you don't bend the chips when you are trying to seat them, and have a few sets on hand in case you do get a bad chip. I was going to throw this tv out after the first failure. I wonder how many people have thrown it out after their first failure when in reality, this solution works.


----------



## Tron717




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizoore* /forum/post/17904832
> 
> 
> Ok, so I got the tv ready to go and gave the desolding a try...... Cheese and rice what a pain in the ars. I didn't even get 1 off. I used the braid and held the Ito on it for awhile and nothing, and suggestions. And I got my ic's from eBay



I used the braid as well and my first thought was there's no way I'm going to do this right. The braid seems like such a pain, but it actually was easy once I figured it out. It took me 5 mins to desolder one chip. What worked for me was placing the braid over the pin so the pin actually sticks through the center of the braid. Then I put the iron either on or up against the pin and solder where I could wiggled the pin back and forth slightly as the solder heated up. Once the solder liquified, the braid pulled it right up. Move to a fresh piece of braid and move down the line.


I hope you can visualize what I'm saying and hope it helps.


----------



## Fizoore

Thanks for the help, you said you wiggled the pin when desoldering, did u cut the top of the ic off?


----------



## hokiac

I have the kd-xbr960 too. I was attempting this repair the same day you were as I remember consulting this forum for the same chassey problem. I guess the xbr960's are a little different from normal. I ended up crying uncle and just taking the board out and disconnecting everything (except for the fly-back). I did the soldering and de-soldering with the board laying on the back of the TV (screen facing the floor), and everything came out ok, thank God! I couldn't see a way to get that bottom piece out without breaking one of the tabs - good luck on your repair


----------



## hokiac

The last post was in reply to loopback, btw.


Also, I managed this repair with a $50 Hexacon select-a-temp solder station (off of criagslist), about $25 worth of solder, tip tinner, de-soldering braid, and flux from Radio Shack, a small pair of lead clips I'd had previously, and the $9.99 chips/sockets set off of ebay.

So, thanks to all the previous posts on this forum that helped me turn this potential $300+ job into a 4hr, $85 successful project.

Well, somewhat successful anyway. I think my 6yr old daughter may have moved one of the magnets on the tube while I had the cover off and now even though my tv works I have a picture severely skewed to the left - I've tried all the service adjustments but can't move the picture any further right than I have it and it's about an inch from the edge of the screen.

Anyone have any suggestions about repositioning the magnets on the back of the tube? Or is this even what my issue is? Thanks in advance for any replies.


----------



## compumanus

in my 40incher Ive replaced my IC's 250v caps, and now have three blinks and power off. Im guessing I have a botched solder job on the IC's now? I was very careful. Im also using sockets.


I removed the board from the chasis leaving the fbt intact. Didn't cut traces...





Picked up a 36" model free The solder pads for ic6505 are messed up.


How hard will it be to use jumper wire to re-connect to the rest of the circuit?


----------



## eclipsedave

Hi folks...

I'm sorry to say my set quit again and I think it's something entirely different this time. Any help would be appreciated.


I own a KV-34XBR800...replaced the DB's about a year or two ago.

So I just replaced both D-Board DB's again.

Solders checked.

Sockets firm.

IC's seated in correct direction.


Now I don't even get power, no "BWOP!" sound, no noise at all, no blinks, nada.

I am helpless even with the service manual...Any ideas?

Thank you, as always...


Cheers mates!

-Dave


----------



## jdre

*compumanus* I have used wire to repair damaged board many times. A piece of solid wire from the excess length of a resistor lead works. You should check traces compared to the circuit diagram see schematicsforfree , or maybe look at page 15 post 449 where I repaired mine.

*eclipsedave* Check fuse on A board, and go from there. If open, replace with same amperage. Maybe "it's just the fuse", or the power cord. It happens sometimes.

*hockiac* Check all plugs are installed on the D board and CRT boards W board (careful).

*loopback* I've not done an XBR960 yet but this site has service manuals that may help with disassembly Schematicsforfree. You will have to release hinge connectors and plugs, but it is possible. The DZ board looks like my D board. I had to remove 7 screws and clips holding the board edges and was able to release it to work on the bottom.

*twilightmyst25* There is no MCZ3001 on the A board "just" 2 on the D board to replace.


----------



## eclipsedave

*jdre* thanks for the prompt response and for your dedication on this thread...My challenge is gonna be finding the fuse







...

-Dave


----------



## loopback

Thanks jdre. I was able to 'slide' the assembly yesterday and replaced the ICs today.


however, a blue cable got disconnected from (i believe) CX board. this was adjacent to the thick red cable running from DZ to CX. can you tell where its supposed to be plugged in on the CX baord? i performed a visual inspection of CX couple of times but am unable to figure out the spot for the blue cable. soon as that is replugged, i can close and test it out.


pic is attached.


----------



## loopback

talk about screwing things up!


after my last post, i went back and took one more look. and i think i found the landing spot for the blue cable. now the blue cable just had metal sticking out its plastic sleeve, bout 5mm. so there's no connector at the end.


check out the pic of the red receptable where i landed the blue cable. i barely inserted just to see if it seems to fit and it did. i tried to pull it out but its not coming out. i gave it few tugs but it got secured pretty tight. if this isn't the right spot for it, i suppose it i can cut the cable and still have plenty slack to land at its approprite place.


i tried to decipher the schematic. if i look at DZ board, this cable appears to be for 'Screen' and/or G2. the CX board reads G2 for the red connector (2nd pic - 0943).


relavent pages of the service manual for CX board:

page 129 E1

CN9009 G2


page 130 E5


DZ board pages 121 through 124


----------



## eclipsedave

*jdre* I found the fuse with no problem and I checked it and it's good. I think it may be IC 504 or IC 501. Any ideas







? I must fix this set. Thanks.


-Dave


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *loopback* /forum/post/17947400
> 
> 
> talk about screwing things up!
> 
> 
> after my last post, i went back and took one more look. and i think i found the landing spot for the blue cable. now the blue cable just had metal sticking out its plastic sleeve, bout 5mm. so there's no connector at the end.
> 
> 
> check out the pic of the red receptable where i landed the blue cable. i barely inserted just to see if it seems to fit and it did. i tried to pull it out but its not coming out. i gave it few tugs but it got secured pretty tight. if this isn't the right spot for it, i suppose it i can cut the cable and still have plenty slack to land at its approprite place.
> 
> 
> i tried to decipher the schematic. if i look at DZ board, this cable appears to be for 'Screen' and/or G2. the CX board reads G2 for the red connector (2nd pic - 0943).
> 
> 
> relavent pages of the service manual for CX board:
> 
> page 129 E1
> 
> CN9009 G2
> 
> 
> page 130 E5
> 
> 
> DZ board pages 121 through 124



I believe it is in the right spot









But, what I like to know is. Did you disconnect that or while you were working on it it became disconnected? If you didn't then makes me wonder if that was part of your problem from the get go??



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/17950128
> 
> *jdre* I found the fuse with no problem and I checked it and it's good. I think it may be IC 504 or IC 501. Any ideas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? I must fix this set. Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Dave



Not likely (could be wrong) But, if it were one of those you would be getting some kind of power to standby circuit in a sense (I have a tv now that will not power on but tries to).

I say if you are getting Nothing at all it would have to suggest it is in the power supply. ie. fuse, power cord, something in that area. Can you check the voltages around the fuse. Also check the black and white wires going from the A board to the DZ board (on the DZ board plugs in the corner closet to the mcz... chips) should get a voltage around 130volts maybe more (can not find the exact voltage in the schematic, but if I remember correctly it was higher then normal AC (115), sorry I can't tell you exact voltage).


Hope that helps


----------



## eclipsedave

*Mark* Thanks for the response...Somehow I got power back, but I still have the dreaded 6 blinks and clicks each time I plug it in. I have tried several combinations of original, 2nd set and brand new set of MCZ chips, but to no avail...I'm lost







...Any clue?

-Dave


----------



## loopback

*Mark Goetz* that cable got disconnected while working on the DZ board. i labeled most and took notes of the jumpers/connectors that i disconnected and knew had to be done in order to prop the DZ on its side. i thought i had plenty slack and felt the blue cable is secure but i must of forced it somehow and dislodge it.


think its a good thing i dont do this for a living?










i'll try to 'stitch' up this sonysaurus tomorrow and see if it works but if my lazy friend doesn't show up tomorrow, than its the weekend


----------



## Fizoore

Ok all, I really appreciate all the help but I'm not gonna be able to desolder an resolder the new ic's, so I talked to a buddy who said if I can bring the board to his work he can do it for me. So my problem is getting the large red wire and 2 small wires from the flyback. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated, thank you


----------



## compumanus

I fixed the Botched IC6505 job on my 36" It powers on and has been able to turn on and off since yesterday.


However, it gives 5 blinks, or sometimes 11. Whats 11? 5 blinks isnt related to the D board correct?


I was planning on switching this D board into my 40" since it gives three blinks and shuts off.


Is that a good game plan? Ive tested the solder job on my ics and it all checks out. I reseated the ICs in the sockets. Still three blinks.


----------



## jdre

*loopback:* The red connector is a gripper, if it grabbed the bare wire, it's in. Your picture showed the three wires from the Flyback, the blue is G2 Screen. If it's not connected the picture will be black, so you will know pretty quickly. Try set with back off (no kids, pets nearby!), or set cover in place without the screws.

*Compmanus:*I answered PM, also, can you post a clear closeup picture of the 40" D board area (Capacitors, ICs) , I can look at it.

*Fizoore:*I removed my D board and the CX crt board. I to pull off CX board from CRT(wiggle carefully), unplug 2-3 ground wires, a couple larger white plugs, then the D and CX could be removed from the set together. *The CRT HV rubber cap is a pain to remove. The tube hold a HV charge for a long time, days. Must Discharge HV by: Connect a, insulated thin blade screwdriver's shaft to a grounded wire clipped to crt mount bolt. Slip the screwdriver under the cap until you hear a crackle of electricty, do it again and let it sit a few minutes. Have to clean off dust on it and the crt surface near it.* Then lift up an edge of the rubber and fold it back a bit while looking with a bright light. See a spring wire, slide it, lift a bit release the hook, slide black, release other hook and lift off. Google crt anode cap remove or similar. Read CRT article . I might have an anode cap if you want to see a picture.


----------



## loopback

*jdre*

thanks for the words of caution. i also read your comments for Fizoore regarding CRT discharge. for my repair, my friend unplugged the anode cap .. we didn't perform any discharge as the TV was unplugged for about a week (8 days i think). i dont have the proper discharge tool but can rig up screwdriver and and dc cables. should i still discharge CRT before reconnecting the rubber (anode) cap? also, do i need to discharge or rather ground the anode cap before attaching to CRT? i am guessing the answer would be a yes, better to be safe then sorry. but TV has been unplugged for so many days, so am curious.


many thanks for your advise.


----------



## Tron717




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizoore* /forum/post/17935488
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help, you said you wiggled the pin when desoldering, did u cut the top of the ic off?



Sorry I'm getting back to you so late. I stop by every few days or so. No, I didn't need to cut the top of the ic. As I pulled the solder off of each pin, when I desoldered the final pin, it pulled right out. I did this with the board vertical and the pins facing me, the chip was on the other side. I see you have someone else doing it for you so good luck. I hope you get your tv working again soon.


----------



## jdre

*fizoore:* It can't hurt to discharge the crt well before reinstalling the cap, that way you wont be "surprised" at all.


----------



## eclipsedave

I still have the dreaded 6 blinks and clicks each time I plug it in. I have tried several combinations of original, 2nd set and brand new set of MCZ chips, but to no avail...I'm lost...Any clue?

-Dave


----------



## mysugardream




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mxrider* /forum/post/13863652
> 
> 
> TYVM!
> 
> 
> All parts now ordered. Will update once I give this a go.



Hello eclipsedave, Bob, and all you guys,


It is great to see so much input here!

My problem is with KV-36xbr800 same 6 blinks and not powering...

I want to give it a try to repair it on my own but do have a few questions:

1. How dangers is it to get to the back of the TV (any parts I should not even touch)?

2. Dangers in term of my life and a life of TV...?

3. If I can get to the IC's do I really have to unplug all wires to the D-board? Will I fry something if I would start de-soldering and soldering the IC's back-in?

4. What IC on the A-Board could have a problem in my case (the 3rd IC)?

On top of all my biggest concern is I need to fix the darn thing in one day (ones started) due to 3 small kids could fix it before me










Thank you all!!!


----------



## pete186

hey all

Anyone know a good repairman in new york city that can fix a kd34xbr2

with this problem and makes house calls?

thanks!


----------



## hokiac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17946555
> 
> *hockiac* Check all plugs are installed on the D board and CRT boards W board (careful).



jdre,


thanks for the response - I've been pretty busy and just now found time to open up the XBR960 again. I checked all the connectors to the D board and the W board - wearing rubber gloves to be careful..

All the connectors are in place. I also made sure there were no loose wires on the connectors, and I checked connections on the other boards as well.


My picture is skewed to the left about 2 to 2 1/2 inches. I mentioned earlier I thought a magnet was moved, but they're stuck on with adhesive. I tried moving the one I thought was loosened anyway and it is an extremely small adjustment on the picture - certainly no where near 2 inches worth. I replaced it in it's original position


I even moved some of the circular adjustments (magnets?) around the neck of the tube. There were two of them that controlled the picture and not the color, and they made about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of adjustment between them, though they skewed the borders of the picture greatly. I reset these adjustments to their original position (they were marked) as I don't think these are the problem.


Lastly, two things - first, when I did the soldering repair I removed the D board with a screwdriver that had a magnetic tip. It's no stronger than an average refridgerator magnet and I only had it around the D board. This wouldn't cause a problem would it?

Second - when I had the D board out there was some tension at times on the red (the fly back, I think) and blue wires that I didn't disconnect. Would a picture skewed in this manner result from this?


Any help would be appreciated. The tv is still watchable - the picture is still good and I can live with the offset if I can't fix it, but it's killing me trying to figure out what I did, if anything, to cause this. I tried to be very careful when I opened it up for the repair. Thanks!


----------



## jdre

*hokiac:*Flyback wires will not affect centering. Look for a stray splash of solder on the D board, could have happened when you installed the new chips.

*Eclipsedave:*You will have to go at it from measuring voltages. Ground is "hot ground" I'd have to look it up. I had to probe around IC8002 and found the voltages really off, a cut trace did it(wasn't grounded right). In your case, the set worked, so it could be the Mosfets have shorted. Many possibilities, even your chips are bad. I've heard of new faulty chips.


----------



## hokiac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/17985331
> 
> *hokiac:*Flyback wires will not affect centering. Look for a stray splash of solder on the D board, could have happened when you installed the new chips.



thanks again for the reply jdre - in searching for anything on the d-board I noticed that I hadn't properly seated the board itself under one of the tabs provided to hold it (adjacent to the AZ board). It was causing a portion of the board to bow just slightly and the connector to the AZ board to not fully seat.


I replaced the portion of the board under the tab and the offset was fixed - now all I need is a good calibration! Time to read up on the service code posts...


----------



## hestiansun

I just wanted to post up first and foremost to thank all of the folks who have taken the time to put this information out there. I feel like I know some of you by now, having read through this entire thread twice, and certain parts three and four times.


With much trepidation I'm going to be attempting this repair on our KV36HS500. I haven't soldered anything since high school shop class, but am somewhat used to working inside of electrical devices (I work with computers--granted, all of those things are plug and chug).


I've decided to go with the socket approach, because it seems that it actually makes the soldering job easier, or at least, less risky. Thanks all to the advice on that.


Ordering the chips online now, and hoping to be able to watch the Superbowl on my beautiful CRT.


I'll pop back in here with updates as I go along, and will try to take some photos as well. I'm leaning towards the "service position" route, as it seems that that is the best marriage of "not unplugging extra things" and being "easily accessible for soldering".


Radio Shack, here I come.


----------



## jdre

*hokiac:* Good to hear it's fixed and needs tweaking. That's how mine have gone. Happy it's fixed, then it needs to be perfect!


----------



## iceze

Just tried the replacement mcz3001db repair on my kv-32fq86u but the problem seems to have changed from one to another. I switched out the chip on th D2 board and now I'm getting 2 blinks and 3 clicks from the inside of tv. Originally didnt have an issue with clicking and had 16 flashes.


I tries cleaning and putting back the old chip and it goes back to the old problem. I've also checked my work and it looks ok on the soldering. Obviously changing this chip made some kind of difference but something else is still wrong.


I tried looking for other mcz3001d chips and replaced another one on the G board, but this made no difference.


I could find any other places with this chip and didnt really see any obvious signs of a blown cap (visual check only).


Any ideas on what I could do next?


----------



## loopback

thanks to the folks and all the information here, my sonysaurus is working again. i was yet again blown away by the superb picture; worth spending the time on fix


----------



## eclipsedave

*jdre* I really appreciate your help...I don't know how to go about measuring voltages, but if given a clue, I could start using my multimeter. I don't know what mosfets are or how to check them.

I would very much like to test voltages while the TV back is removed and before ordering yet another set of new MCZ chips...


I'm probably gonna have to move out of my house soon and need to put this TV problem to rest, either one way or the dreaded "other" way...


Can jdre or anyone guide me? Your help and patience is genuinely appreciated...so thank you and thanks to all who join in on this thread...


-Dave


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18006639
> 
> 
> I would very much like to test voltages



You will need the service manual for your TV model. They are available online for sale, or if you have the time, a thorough web search might turn up a free download.


The service manual would have test points to measure and the expected voltages or waveforms. The voltage tables are usually on the schematic pages, rather than the board layout pages.


But if you're not familiar working on live high-voltage equipment, then you're better off not trying to measure the voltages. For example, you need to know what both hands are doing; the old rule is to put one hand in your pants/jacket pocket so that it is not grounded. The idea is to avoid a shock that goes from one hand and across your chest (heart) to the other hand.


Regards


----------



## eclipsedave

*blue_z* Thanks for the heads up.


I have the service manual on my desktop along with my original Thread page #4 repair photos.


I can find my way around a circuit board as long as I have the "map". I think I can figure out D board schematics when it comes to point-to-point voltage checks, as long as everything is pretty clear in the manual regarding what voltages to expect at which locations...I'll give it a try soon...


Cheers,

-Dave


----------



## jdre

You will need to find the hot ground (it's on a diode, can't remember which right now)to measure the voltages around the MCZ ICs. Also, you might want to wrap some electrical tape around the meter probes to make the tips smaller and less likely to short out (unless you have good probes).


----------



## eclipsedave

*jdre* Thanks much...I'll do my best...


-Dave


----------



## compumanus

im swapping the d boards in my sets to get my 40 going.


Ive worked on small pc crts and discharging them.. this is basically the same?


any tips specific to this set?


----------



## compumanus

Im having difficulty removing the red and white wires from the CX board, they connect to the fbt.


Any suggestions?


----------



## compumanus

Thanks all who have provided information in this thread! My 40" set is now in working order!


Although.. Is it suppose to flash 5 times and then power on or what? The 5th flash is like 1/2 the length of the rest.


Now to figure out the 36.


----------



## ace91024




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Goetz* /forum/post/12024822
> 
> 
> I saw some others with the problem..set comes on for a sec. then goes into a protection mode...the light on mine blinks 3 times...
> 
> 
> When it first happened I took the back off and (WOW, lol) very dirty, cleaned it out thinking that was the problem...And when I plugged it back in and turned it on it came right on? But, next day same problem. This time I just unplugged it for a few minutes and it came on (keep in mind though, the first time this happened I had tried that, unplugging it..with NO success then).
> 
> 
> I guess I am asking if anyone else found out something, like what is the problem???
> 
> 
> Thank You for any info.
> 
> PS: I have had this TV for about 5 years now and love it. I would hate for this to be a unfixable or cost more then its worth to fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to have the name of the thread changed so people can post and read about these kinds of problems with these TVs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just think we needed a thread for this, as I have read here and other forums of these problems, but they are spread all over the place....
> 
> Please feel free to post here with your problem, fix, or answer to another users problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But please, DO NOT POST HERE your complaint, preference of brand or model, or anything other then what relates to the thread title!!! Thank You
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an added point I like to make.............
> 
> Please if anyone has any info on any problem fixes from the standby light blinks (2,3,4,5, etc.. blinks), feel free to add it in this tread.......................
> 
> 
> Thank You, have a good day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and good luck with your Sony



I occasionally have the same problem with my 34" Sony CRT TV. Unplugging it for about 20 seconds and plugging it back in always fixes it.


----------



## Auto Pilot

I have a sony tv that stopped working after shutting it off one night. My wife tried the next day to turn it on and only got the blinking from the standby LED.


I am getting 6 and 7 blinks. Mostly 6 lately.


I have replaced the two chips IC6501 and IC8002. Those two did nothing to help my issue. I started looking around and thought I found a bad capacitor but when I unsoldered it, it showed the correct value.


I ended up checking the fusible resistors R6526 and R8051

The first checked fine, but the second R8051 showed high resistance. I am obviously thinking that is the problem, but what could make that blow? I want to check the mosfets Q8013 and Q8104 down the line from there. Can someone give me steps on how to check them effectively?


I don't think that a current draw issue before the resistor could be the problem because the other resistor is fine and they are attached to the same power source.


JDRE - I know you say to check the fets for shorts, do you mean to check between each pin of each fet or reference each to ground?


Any direction on checking the fets would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks.


----------



## jdre

*compmanus:* The standby light will blink until the picture comes up, that's normal. I went and tried my 32HS510, 11 blinks. Press power, degauss hum, click, 11 blinks, sound, picture. I'm curious, did the picture need readjusting after swapping boards? I'm thinking it didn't. Now you can look close at the other D board.

*ace91024:* You're heading towards replacing IC 8002, 6051 eventually. Might be a while.

*auto pilot:*R8051 acted like a fuse, recheck in case you had poor connections to meter tips (I get that a lot). You will get 6 blinks if IC8002 circuit is dead. Check your soldering work around IC8002, and check across all 3 pins of mosfets Q8013/14 and then each 2 adjacent pins for shorts. Q6506 and Q6507 are the same type, compare.


----------



## Auto Pilot

Ok, I have been looking at the circuit some more.

I swapped the bad fusible resistor with good and put in a temporary metal film resistor (fusible also) in place of the known good one.

When I started up, let some smoke out and now the TV is just degausing, first relay clicks, three red blinks and then shuts off. No diagnostic light from standby light.


I started at the AC input on the board and then first relay. It is working fine. The second one is not doing anything anymore so when I hit the on button, I only get the first 3 blinks and the TV shuts down without any diagnostic codes. I am looking at the AC rectifier outer two pins (which should be DC) I am getting nothing. I even checked ground to each pin and no voltage. I am curious if the large capacitors charge up when the tv is just plugged in or do they sit waiting for the initial push of the on button? If anyone can check to see if they get a DC voltage on the outer two pins, I would appreciate it.


My test leads are in good shape and they are designed so only a small portion for testing the circuit shows through. If needed, I can post some pics of the areas I am looking to get confirmation on.


I will give results of the fets. Two are definately different then the other two. I will recheck what I got and write it down to put up here.


EDIT:

In V formation if looking at the fet from solder side. First number is left leg, second is right and across the top is third.


6506 - 2.28 M ohm , 2.27 M ohm , 8.34 K ohm

6507 - 2.28 M ohm , 2.27 M ohm , 8.07 K ohm


8013 - 13.85 ohm , 1.15 ohm , 13.47 ohm

8014 - 1.96 ohm , 1.59 ohm , .7 ohm


If they are the same then I would say 8013 and 8014 are bad.


If all is the in my reasoning, the fets died (or MCZ chip first) killing the fusible resistor and when I repaced the resistor, it killed the AC rectifier (D6530)


I know the circuits on the two sets of fets are not the same so I am wondering if that has anything to do with the different readings.


JDRE - I do not have any experience with troubleshooting in ciruit so in your experience, if you get readings like that would you say the two are bad?


Thanks for the help so far.


----------



## blue_z

Hi there


Successfully repaired a second Sony TV, this time a KV-34XBR910. Everything went smoothly, but the total repair time still dragged out to almost 2 hours.


Repair hint: don't recall if anybody ever mentioned this, but I almost always use a vacuum cleaner and a brush (acid brush) to clean up the little specks of solder off the PCB. A solder sucker (for desoldering) always leaves such specks or flakes.


TriStateModule stills sells the chips for $5.99, but no longer ships by USPS. So shipping cost has tripled and is slower when using UPS Ground.


Regards


----------



## mazr

Before going through this thread I have a question:


KV-32HS420 is the model I have. Have only had it a couple of days and it has not been used much at all the last 1-2 years. Is it pretty much guaranteed that this blinking light problem will happen, or is it just random?


This is a great site. Thanks to everyone who provides answers and info.


----------



## jdre

*auto pilot:* I studied the schematic, as I haven't fixed the problem the same as you will need to







I'd desolder the fet 8013 and 8014 legs and remeasure, sure looks bad, see if the short is in the board or just the Fets. You might need a new IC8002. Your TV is now acting like when I had both ICs not connected properly, which makes sense, because they are inoperative from a different cause than in my set. Did the new R8051 resistor smoke, or something else? There are other fusible resistors near IC8002 to check. Check if R6526 blew out as well. Across each capacitor will be about 150 DC voltage if it's working, which is applied to both sets of Fets (total *316Volts*), so you *could* have blown the rectifier. 2 shorted Fets will lead to ground. F501 on A board is your main fuse, check.

*blue z:*The 34XBR910 is worth the 2 hours spent. I'm slower than you. Then comes tweaking..Enjoy.

*mazr:*You could buy the IC parts, put in a drawer for later. Then you won't need them, or at least for a long time







Seriously, a good idea because parts go up in price.


----------



## Auto Pilot

Yeah I was unsoldering as you wrote your response. The fets are definately bad. Almost same exact readings as when they were in the circuit.


Fuse is still good on "A" board. I have full power at the connector leading into "D" board from "A" board.



The fusible resistor (R6526) was still good. I ended up swapping that into the bad location and putting my temporary into the 6526 spot. That way I would be safe on the thought to be bad circuit. The resistor never blew. I think I ended up frying my rectifier when I put in my temporary. I couldn't find out where the smoke came from, but that is the best theory.



So all in all, I need the:

fusible resistor (will order multiple and replace both just because I have been messing with them)

AC rectifier (D6530)

2x mosfets (Q8013, Q8014)

relay (RY6501) - my fault - broke a lead when checking voltages - have it wired up with a spare piece of wire to work right now.

I am having a hard time finding the relay for a decent price - the ones on digikey have a wrong foot print

Happen to know a good source for that? If it comes down to it, I can leave it how I have it right now, but not the best permanent solution or order one and bend the leads to fit the foot print. They are smaller than what is on this board.


Looks like this is going to take up my dining room space for a little longer than I had hoped when it went down. It will come back up.








One bad note about all this .... My 2yr old daughter ended up grabbing my soldering iron and we made our first run to the urgent care yesterday for bandages and burn cream. At least she grabbed and let go. Second degree burns on her whole hand, fingers and palm. Ring finger and pinky are the worst, but she is doing heck of a lot better than I thought she would with it. Hasn't even slowed her down one bit despite the fact her hand is wrapped like a mummy.


----------



## jdre

*auto pilot*Try googling the manufacturer and numbers that are printed on the relay RY6501 if you can read them, mouser.com is another good supplier. Maybe you can figure out a functional equivalent based on data sheets. What do you think about new MCZ chip for 8002? (Hope your daughter heals quickly. Can you close off the dining room?)


----------



## Auto Pilot

Well, I ordered the parts I think I need. Fets, resistors, rectifier ..... I am not going to worry about the IC8002 just yet. I believe I should have a good set once I get everything else in order. If not, it is cheaper just buying later than ordering them from the place I ordered the rest of the parts.


I can not find the relay anywhere for less than $15 so I will not get that until I know everything else is working. The one in there now works ... just with a wire added to replace the lead I broke off.










Going to install the rectifier first and fire up the tv to make sure I am getting DC voltage out of it without burning up. I will leave the two fusible resistors to make sure nothing down the line is pulling it down and burning it up. Once I know that is good, I will put in one resistor at a time. Hopefully will have the parts by Saturday but will not hold my breath on that one. I will update once I get the parts in and the TV tested further.


----------



## blue_z

Hi there



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Auto Pilot* /forum/post/18064924
> 
> 
> Going to install the rectifier first and fire up the tv to make sure I am getting DC voltage out of it without burning up.



Replacing one component at a time in a failing circuit does not make sense. If there is still an open, then the circuit still won't work. If there's still a short, then the just-replaced component might fail again.


Regards


----------



## Auto Pilot

If you look at the circuit schematic then what I said will work. Leaving the two fusible resistors out will take away the load from the MCZ chips (and fets). The ac rectifier does not need a load to work correctly. I just want to make sure I did not miss anything that is still shorting. If I did, then putting everything back in at once almost guarantees that I will be buying all the same parts again. Doing only one thing at a time makes it so I will only need to check that one part of the circuit.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Auto Pilot* /forum/post/18065960
> 
> 
> The ac rectifier does not need a load to work correctly.



Good luck.

In my experience, the few times I did that a filter cap would blow from over-voltage. So I learned to always install a load on the PS or use a variac to limit the input. The last (and worst) time I had no load on the power supply resulted in a B+ filter cap shorting to ground, but the power xfmr was saved by a 7-watt resistor that opened when it burned up.


Regards


----------



## jdre

*auto pilot:* I'm not sure if it will blow up if you do as you say, having never tried that fixing many devices. Computer power supplies won't output with no load, maybe there is a reason. Make sure there are no shorts before powering the complete circuits. Hope the repair works out!


----------



## Auto Pilot

I now have power from the rectifier chip to the resistors and past to the mosfets. The first relay is working correctly but the second is not powering. I do not have any of the unregulated powers like 11V etc that are from the internal transformer. After replacing the parts, I am still only getting the degauss, relay click, three blinks and then off. No blinking codes or anything. I checked the soldering on all parts including ohming out connections at the two MCZ chips. Any thoughts on where I should look? I am not sure how the power should go through the mosfets and if they are what turn on the transformer.


I ended up buying a 34xbr970 for cheap so my girl can watch her elmo










I am still wanting to get this up and running. It had a really good picture still.


----------



## jdre

*autopilot:* Did the Mosfets stay un-shorted? Did your fusible resistors stay fused? The Mosfets drive the transformers. 11V comes from the *IC6501* driven circuit. Check for stray solder splash or a plug that you forgot, such as the tricky hinged connectors. Could be a dead IC6501 MCZ.


----------



## superguppy

Hi everybody, I have a KV-34HS510 with the 6 blink problem. I was going to try and replace the 2 chips, but upon opening the TV, I see that it already has the supposedly improved DB versions of both chips. With that information, would that change the probability that a defect in either or both of these chips is causing the problem? Thanks.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *superguppy* /forum/post/18118701
> 
> 
> Hi everybody, I have a KV-34HS510 with the 6 blink problem. I was going to try and replace the 2 chips, but upon opening the TV, I see that it already has the supposedly improved DB versions of both chips. With that information, would that change the probability that a defect in either or both of these chips is causing the problem? Thanks.



The DB variants of the ICs have also been reported to fail. So don't let that stop you.


And you are correct to note that the DB variant is "supposedly" improved. I've only seen speculation to that fact and no hard evidence.


Given a choice, I would still select the DB variant for replacements but the two non-DB ICs that I installed in my KV-36XBR400 are still working perfectly after three years.


----------



## dpat

Thanks everyone for the great thread! I just finished repairing my KV-34XBR910 that was suffering from the 6/7 blinking led. I ordered the parts for less than $10 on ebay, and it worked perfectly. Another behemoth saved from the landfill!


----------



## loopback




RobertF said:


> The DB variants of the ICs have also been reported to fail. So don't let that stop you.
> 
> 
> true. my TV had the DB variants and replacing with the same worked.
> 
> *dpat*
> 
> good job


----------



## Viduser

Hi all,


I just started having a problem with my set last week. The set turns off and has 5 blinks of the standby LED. I turn it back on and it will do it again (turn off and 5 LED blinks) anywhere from 5 minutes to a few hours later. I had ABT service (this is where I originally bought it), they called Sony and said they should replace my D board. They are ordering a part #A1346948A. From the service manual, 5 blinks dont say it is a potential D board problem. Has anyone had the same issue, is the D board the problem here???


Thanks.


Tony


----------



## Viduser

Hi all,


I just started having a problem with my set last week. The set turns off and has 5 blinks of the standby LED. I turn it back on and it will do it again (turn off and 5 LED blinks) anywhere from 5 minutes to a few hours later. I had ABT service (this is where I originally bought it), they called Sony and said they should replace my D board. They are ordering a part #A1346948A. From the service manual, 5 blinks dont say it is a potential D board problem. Has anyone had the same issue, is the D board the problem here???


Thanks.


Tony


----------



## kyleschaffer

Another sony owner with the flashing red light problem.


Found this thread and spent the day reviewing it.


Don't have much to add yet - looks like a pretty well-worn path. Ordered the ICs, studied the pics, going to get soldering stuff tonight (no experience whatsoever)


I guess at this point just a thanks for all the generous time posters have contributed over the years.


----------



## rtmach

I just finished my 3rd sony repair. this one was 27hs420 ,same chips. this one I had to get the board in the service position so it took about a hour . It was a little tricky . I unhooked the 3 harness connectors towards the front , unhinged the board connectors and jump line between the 2 boards and got it upright. I also used the sockets this time so it will be a short repair next time. I already had the chips but I went ahead and ordered another set for standby since I have another 4 sony's with these chips. This really is a simple repair as long as it's only the chips, good luck to all


----------



## dirty_mcnasty

Model: KV-32HS420


The flash codes I got were 7 and 6. I was getting 7 flashes when the TV was unplugged, then plugged back in and turned on for first time. Leaving it plugged in and simply turning the TV back on would only show 6 flashes. When I turned the TV on, I would hear a second or two of audio, then the unit was shutting down. The picture tube would not light up at all.


Replaced IC6501 and IC8002 on the D-board. The two original chips I removed were both MCZ3001DB. I read where many who replaced these chips did not have the DB type originally installed. Used sockets for both. Removed the D-board just enough to stand it on its end.


For de-soldering, I used a de-soldering iron with the attached squeeze bulb. It woked fine; however, it looked as though I did pull the pad on pin 18 of IC8002. I checked the schematics, and pins 13,17, and 18 showed no connection. I did solder pin 17 just to help hold the socket in place, but no solder on pins 13 and 18. The TV is working again. Hoping to get another 4-5 years of use.


Thanks so much for your advice, tips, and suggestions. Couldn't have done it without you.


Repairs made on July 23, 2009 and still working fine.


----------



## blackdeath231

I have a KV-32HS420 which started out with having the 7 blinks from the stanby light on the front. I replaced the 2 IC's on the D board and now I get 6 blinks.


I have done a lot of reading on this and I am thinking of changing out both the FETS q8014,q8013. I also am looking at replacement of the IC504 as the service manuals suggest could be one of the problems.


I have also located another SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D on the AY board which I will change first.


Any help or other suggestions would be much welcomed.


Thanks


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blackdeath231* /forum/post/18223313
> 
> 
> I have a KV-32HS420 which started out with having the 7 blinks from the stanby light on the front. I replaced the 2 IC's on the D board and now I get 6 blinks.
> 
> 
> I have done a lot of reading on this and I am thinking of changing out both the FETS q8014,q8013. I also am looking at replacement of the IC504 as the service manuals suggest could be one of the problems.
> 
> 
> I have also located another SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D on the AY board which I will change first.
> 
> 
> Any help or other suggestions would be much welcomed.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Before replacing those other components, I would double check all of your new soldering. You might want to re-flow every new solder joint and check carefully for damaged PCB trace material. If you're not sure, check for continuity with a multi-meter. Also, if you disconnected anything for the repair, disconnect and reconnect everything.


If that all checks out, I would recomend swapping the A-Board MCZ300D IC next. A Sony service technician once told me that the A-Board IC is often missed in failed repair attempts.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## blackdeath231

Sorry I was wrong about the other SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D on the AY board. It was not a 18 pin IC.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blackdeath231* /forum/post/18224479
> 
> 
> Sorry I was wrong about the other SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D on the AY board. It was not a 18 pin IC.



Thanks for the update. Not all of the Sony CRTs have an MCZ3001D on the A-Board. My KV-36XBR400 had one but I never needed to change that.


----------



## blackdeath231

I pulled up the wiring schemtic and checked continuity at each pin to it's corresponding componet and found nothing. All check out. The chip on the AY board turned out to be IC903 (CXA8070AP) could this be causing the problem? I am measured the resistance of the FETs and they seem very high in the Mega Ohms?


I am going to order the IC504 (5V Regulator) and another set of SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D just in case I got a bad set.


----------



## TooManyToys

We had a good repair for awhile on our 34XBR800 with the replacement of the two ICs. Then the picture turned a little fuzzy and off color. I ended up pulling the two ICs and replacing them with sockets and the extra two spare ICs I had, but still in the same condition.


I printed out images of the ICs before any work and looked at the traces with a magnifying glass, but they look OK. Also checked the traces I could see with a ohm meter and those look OK.


Anyone run into this?


----------



## jdre

*blackdeath231:*A bad fet is usually shorted (low ohms like 2 or less.) Your FETS might be good , unless one is open.

*viduser:*The 36XBR450 is different (earlier model). There may be an MCZ3001D IC on the A board as well. Hopefully, ABT will be correct in their diagnosis.


----------



## eclipsedave

KV-34xbr800...I replaced the MCZ's about 2 years ago using sockets and had a great repair until about 3 months ago. Prior to it dying the 2nd time, I too saw a little discoloration on the lower left corner of the screen. I tried ordering and replacing the MCZ's with new ones--Didn't fix it. Only thing I know to do is to try ordering a few more MCZ's to rule out a bad set. It is still the same old 6-blink deal and I suspect it can't be too difficult to fix. I just don't know how to do it. I refuse to throw this set away. I will either fix it myself or pay someone to come out and fix it. It cost me $2500 when it was brand new and even a $400 repair bill would be worth it to me. Especially since the repair would give me back the very best TV I've ever owned with the very best picture I've ever seen. Make that TWO pictures, cuz I can watch stuff on the left and the right! Wikkid. Any ideas from anyone on what we should do?! Thanks--You guys are great!


----------



## kyleschaffer

I posted last week that I was trying to repair my Sony.


Success- what a thrill to keep this beast out of the landfill for now.


I don't have much to add except for encouragement for future people reading this thread. I had no soldering experience prior to this. I read through the thread multiple times before starting. My technique:


1. Placed TV on face, took off face

2. I was going to try and disconnect the board, but the # of connections and complications in doing so scared me.

3. Similarly, I was predisposed to not want to cut away the bottom bracket to get to the ICs, but when I saw how easy that would be, I changed my mind. In fact, the longest part of the project was the last minute running to the hardware store to buy a dremel.

4. Cutting was very easy - no risk of damage IMO - but I did need to cut a T-shaped section instead of the bar shown in the pictures in this thread.

5. Prior to cutting I removed the hard plastic base of the TV. Maybe that was obvious to everyone else but I did not see any mention of it. It made it so that I didn't need to slide or otherwise touch the D-board throughout the whole operation.

6. My shopping list at radio shack: 15/30 w soldering iron, 60/40 .032 solder, desoldering braid, desoldering vacuum, IC chip puller, practice printed circuit board, 3 practice chips.

7. I replaced both ICs as I didn't want to risk having the other fail too.

8. I confess I did have a friend come over to help - he had little soldering experience but more computer / tech experience. He ended up doing the desoldering. I had practiced with the braid but noticed I had burnt the printed circuit board in a few places (that braid gets hot). He prefered the vacuum technique and after a bit of practice had it down so well I let him do it all!

9. Reassembed and started up first try.


Oh, what a feeling!


----------



## florida288

The last time I posted was last July that my son was returning from school and would probably be able to help me replace the IC's on the D board.


Haven't done it yet. Got sidetracked. My husband who died in 02 was in the oil business. I'd been notified of some new wells in Wyo that were still in his name about 3 yrs ago that needed to be transferred to mine before they start paying me. Because, as I mentioned before, I'm a lazy procrastinator, I let it slide till the big drop in crude prices impacted me hard by last summer (maxed credit cards, late payments, credit score way down and couldn't get refi for money to replace broken ac). The company that drilled the wells wanted me to do an ancillary probate in Wyo, but I'd done many other transfers in some other states without that. I'd been told by someone at that company that the amount in a suspense acct for me was low 5 figures. Talked to someone else at that company and asked why such a fuss over that nice but low amt. He said, no, it's low 6 figures. So obviously I got to work on that right away. Did it myself btw. Searched Wyo statutes for requirements for ancillary probate and did it. Got my money, paid off credit cards and bills and taxes and got the new ac.

















So now, back to tv repair 101. I have assembled everything I need: sockets, ic's, soldering station, solder, desoldering wick. I've read and re-read, for about the tenth time, all the pertinent info here and in pin ball repair from RobertF. I have the tv face down with the back off, the bottom thingy off, and the in-the-way piece of plastic cut out. I started this evening to practice on an old computer modem circuit board. This is where I'm having trouble. I'm trying to desolder, but nothing is working as it should. The soldering station is from Radio Shack. I'm following all the directions, have set the temp at the recommended 680 deg., waited till it reached the target temp, wiped the tip on the dampened sponge, tinned it, put the wick over the spot to be desoldered, applied the iron on top of the wick, and the only solder that seems to be going onto the wick is the solder I put on the tip of the iron to tin it. I even tried, just to see what would happen, applying the tip of the iron directly to the spot to be desoldered and kept it there way longer than I'm sure one should, when doing it where it matters, before the solder seemed to even start to liquify a little.
























Now I'm all frustrated and cranky. I really want to do this. I'm chomping at the bit. Why isn't it working???????????? Bad words, bad words, bad words.


----------



## florida288

And now after an hour and a half of reading more here and over at agoraquest, and seeing that the people, like RobertF, who know their way around a d board don't seem to come around here or there very often any more (and I want answers NOW, I tell you, NOW) I kind of feel like chucking the whole thing, or at least hitting that stupid modem board a lot with my hammer as I laugh hysterically.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *florida288* /forum/post/18276050
> 
> 
> And now after an hour and a half of reading more here and over at agoraquest, and seeing that the people, like RobertF, who know their way around a d board don't seem to come around here or there very often any more (and I want answers NOW, I tell you, NOW) I kind of feel like chucking the whole thing, or at least hitting that stupid modem board a lot with my hammer as I laugh hysterically.



The desoldering step can be tricky initially. Did you use an aerosol spray electronics cleaner? If not, you may want to give that a shot. Solder flows better on clean surfaces. You could also try one of the specialized desoldering tools like the spring loaded solder sucker that Radio Shack sells.


Do you have a junk circuit board that you can practice on?


Hang in there!


Bob


----------



## florida288

I'm writing this for the second time. The first time, although I had logged in just about 10 min. ago, when I hit post, it said I had to refresh the page and log in again.


Yes, it's an old modem board. But everything on it seems awfully tiny. Gunna go back to radio shack and get a practice board, chips and sockets and some of that spray cleaner.


I had decided to go with the braid since that seems to be that with which most have had success. Didn't want to end that sentence with a preposition. something which Churchill said is a thing "up with which he will not put."


I'll try it some more, if no sucess, will explore the other options including the sucker. Also, in re-re-reading in the last few hours, I noticed your mention that desoldering with braid can require a higher temp., so I'll try that too.


Thanks,


Kathy R


----------



## meademac

Hi Kathy,

I used the desoldering iron from RS about $9

Has a bulb syringe attached, just hold the iron to the solder while depressing the bulb when you see the solder melt let go of the bulb and suck it up with the syringe. Just make sure you empty the syringe so the removed solder doesn't drip back on the board. I found this quite easy with the tight space you have to work in. I had limited experience soldering and I desoldered the IC chip quickly without overheating the board. The desoldering iron is well worth the money spent with the time saved and damage prevented. I used sockets and have 2 spare IC in a bag taped to the back of the TV so next time if needed it wil take about 5-10.minutes to fix. Good luck and stay at it!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *florida288* /forum/post/18276578
> 
> 
> I'm writing this for the second time. The first time, although I had logged in just about 10 min. ago, when I hit post, it said I had to refresh the page and log in again.
> 
> 
> Yes, it's an old modem board. But everything on it seems awfully tiny. Gunna go back to radio shack and get a practice board, chips and sockets and some of that spray cleaner.
> 
> 
> I had decided to go with the braid since that seems to be that with which most have had success. Didn't want to end that sentence with a preposition. something which Churchill said is a thing "up with which he will not put."
> 
> 
> I'll try it some more, if no sucess, will explore the other options including the sucker. Also, in re-re-reading in the last few hours, I noticed your mention that desoldering with braid can require a higher temp., so I'll try that too.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Kathy R


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *meademac* /forum/post/18276690
> 
> 
> .... *I used sockets and have 2 spare IC in a bag taped to the back of the TV so next time if needed it wil take about 5-10.minutes to fix.*



I love the idea of taping the spare ICs to the TV itself!


----------



## kyleschaffer

we ended up using the spring loaded sucker from radio shack and it worked very well. This was after practicing with the braid which seemed better during trials.


The secret was to really get the plastic point of the vacuum sucker in there while heating the solder. The solder cools quickly and if you remove the gun, then put on the vacuum, then hit spring - it just doesn't work. Has to be simultaneous. I was worried to do that because you end up melting the tip of the vacuum gun a bit - but the do provide an extra in the package, so clearly that's to be expected.


----------



## pw2009

Thanks for the tips on mcz3001 problems...Repaired TV and it works well...


However a few things I have noticed in this thread, I would like to comment on (for the new ones to circuit board/CRT repair)


1. Someone mentioned grounding prongs the "Red Wire" to avoid shock....

CAUTION: It is a MUST to use a clip wire to chassis ground (metal band around picture tube), attached to an insulated screwdriver and slide it under the 2nd Anode connection to the picture tube to discharge it. Keep screwdriver in contact with metal clip until you have removed wire..... Remember, must do the same to picture tube before re-installing wire when finished with repair.... Charge can rebuild on picture tube while disconnected for repair...


2. For those with desoldering problems, it is good practice to take thin wire rosin core solder and apply a small amount to each solder point on circuit board before desoldering, it will help.


3. It is good general practice to use a magnifier to examine solder joints when finished to make sure solder has not bridged between any other connections, but on these Sony tv's there are very tiny connecting traces than can be damaged by removing solder bridges.. Examine the traces before you begin work and know where these traces are.


4. Solder wick willl work well if used correctly... Place wick next to pin to be desoldered and press iron against wick.... After desoldering, take a small (jewelers) screwdriver and press sideways against each chip pin to be sure they are not stuck to side of solder hole... Usually they will fall out after you finish...


BTW: It is late and I am tired...Hope I have not stepped on any toes, or posted redundant info here...


Thanks again for the forum and info posted here....


pw2009


----------



## TWIY-1986

Hi all, noob here, im sorry if ive posted in the wrong section but im in need of some help, my sony gdm-fw900 crt monitor stopped working on me, the picture just went off, no bang no smoke just no picture, when i turn it on there is NO hv start up, the static thing that has to happen, and when i have the pc connected the orange lights blinks repeatedly and thats about it, if i remove one of the wires from i think its the d board that has the flyback on it i get a normal start up with degausse with the normal sounding relay click but no picture, i have some knowledge of looking inside the unit and i have a basic DMM i really dont want to throw this in the bin because its a rare monitor to come by thankyou.


ps, the flyback is making the normal sound as if its working, all 3 cathode heaters are on fine.


----------



## hestiansun

So, yesterday I finally got around to attempting the repair, after being thoroughly intimidated by the soldering aspect of things. After practicing and steeling myself to doing it, I got the back off, followed the instructions, and then despite being able to manuever the chassis off, scared myself away from trying to pry apart the d-board from the a-board.


My wife, either sensing or perhaps smelling my fear from across the room, decided to look online, and found a repair guy. I explained to him on the phone the situation, and that I had done research and felt it was the chips, and he agreed to come out and do the service in our home for $100, using our parts, if that indeed fixed it. So I chickened out, and 24 hours later, have a fully functional KV-36HS!


When the guy was here I told him "the Internet guys said it was these chips", and he said, "If so, you'll have saved yourself a few hundred, because I'd have likely just replaced the board. Although I don't know if this will do it if something else is wrong."


So, you Internet guys saved me enough money that it kept this tube from the landfill, for sure.


Thanks!


D.


----------



## jdre

*florida288:* The modem board has higher temperature solder called "lead free." The TV does as well, but not as resistant to melting. You may have to experiment with the temperature.

*hestiansun:*That's a different path to success! Maybe the tech will use the experience in other repairs, less costly approach.


----------



## MONSTER MAN

Is it really too hard to take out the D-board from the DA4 CHASSIS? I have the KV32HV600 with service manual and MCZ3001DB's in hand. Seems like it would be much easier to remove the D-board to desolder and resolder.

BTW: What wires should I stay away from? Don't want to fry myself when unplugging wires and the TV would be way to heavy where it is to be able to place on it's face. I have the board vertically faced for service now. Service manual is really no help.


Thanks


----------



## darwin1859

Thanks for a great resource all - I just brought my KV-36HS510 back to life. I replaced to 2 ICs on the D board using sockets. I cut the plastic part with metal snips no problems. I disconnected the speaker wires, the 2 connectors from the chassis to the very back of the tube, and a couple of black and white wires on the RHS. After that, I pulled back the tray (after finding the catches) and then rotated the chassis until the bottom of the D board was facing me and the back panel of the TV was on the table. Desoldering was tricky with the braid initially - it wouldn't wick all of the solder, which appeared to have a crinkly skin over the molten metal (oxidation?). I did the trick of adding a little solder to each post and then using the braid and it worked like a charm. There is zero need to shear the pins of the old ICs - when soldering is done correctly, the old IC fairly falls out.

I love having this TV back - I replaced it with a new one in my living room and now I have this beautiful TV in my game room for the 360.


Thanks again to all who lead the way, especially Mark Goetz and RoberF. The hardest part was getting up the courage to try the fix myself (and moving this heavy beast to a worktable).


----------



## MONSTER MAN

Another success story here!!! Thanks all, and DILLA for having the same TV as mine (KV32HV600) with a nice little writeup.


Hopefully, these newer IC's (MCZ3001DB) corrected the problem with the original (MCS3001D).


I found it easiest when soldering to disconnect the D-board (just screws) and then lay it on it's side for soldering, didn't have to cut or splice anything. The desolderer with pump also worked best upside down as well.


TV powered up just like new.


Here are pics of installed IC's (2) and sockets (2):


----------



## louiselulu

Thanks very much for the people posted to this thread. I think I have fixed my tv, but with an issue I need someone's help or comments. I have no previou experience on soldering at all.


My 40XBR800 TV started blinking 6/7 times during the Winter Olympics. After I found the information posted here, I ordered two ICs with sockets on Ebay. I turned tv face down with 4 plastic stools supporting it at each corner (300 lbs monster). After removing the back cover, IC 8002 was just located on the upper left corner of the Dboard, but IC 6501 was behind a plastic bar of the supporting tray. After left tv unplugged for a few days, I managed to turn on the tv with the self diagnosis screen on. It showed that the tv had VSTOP (4), LOWB (6), and H-STOP (7) faults.


I started fixing IC 8002 first with the Dboard in place, desoldering it with desoldering braid bought from Source (Radio Shock), and replacing the IC with a new one sitting on the socket, which was soldered to place quite easily. I removed most, but not all the solder, as my friend told me it should work even with some old solder left there. I can now turn on the tv without any problem. However, I noticed that the Standby light is blinking randomly each time I turn on the tv. It blinks from 4 times to 11 times without repeating; then tv is on. It seems when the first time the tv is turned on, it usually blinks 11 times; then blinks between 4 to 7 times each time if I turn off and on the tv again.


I then replaced IC6501 as I thought it might be faulty. But I have the same issue, i.e., standby light blinks randomly each time tv is turned on (I thought it was about 3 times before the tv was broken). Anyone has any idea about this. Should I worries about it?


Thanks again for the great information, and nice people. I enjoy reading the thread.


----------



## Blessedon

@*louiselulu*

Congratulations on saving one of the best TVs ever made!


What you are seeing is probably the warm-up blinks. they are slower than the diagnostic blinks were. The slow blinking is just the TVs way of saying "_standby, I'm warming up_". Sounds like you did just fine.


Should you ever have to replace the IC behind the plastic support bar, that bar can be cut away with a Dremel (slide a piece of plastic notebook divider between it and the D-board for safety to the board) without harming the structure in any way. Pictures are somewhere around here....page 4 probably.


----------



## hlferg

Thanks to this awesome forum, and especially to Mark and Bob! My 27HS420, which was experiencing the 6 and 7 "blinks of death" has been resurrected! The job was relatively painless -- thanks in large part to all the wonderful contributors here. The photos really made a difference. So did the links to the YouTube videos that were posted.


You guys are the BEST!


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/18390096
> 
> 
> @*louiselulu*
> 
> Congratulations on saving one of the best TVs ever made!
> 
> 
> What you are seeing is probably the warm-up blinks. they are slower than the diagnostic blinks were. The slow blinking is just the TVs way of saying "_standby, I'm warming up_". Sounds like you did just fine.
> 
> 
> Should you ever have to replace the IC behind the plastic support bar, that bar can be cut away with a Dremel (slide a piece of plastic notebook divider between it and the D-board for safety to the board) without harming the structure in any way. Pictures are somewhere around here....page 4 probably.



Blessedon: Thanks very much for your quick reply. So i can relaxand enjoy my tv again.


I was worried because the Sony DA-4 Service Manual, as well as the TSM site, mentioned that some other parts should be replaced with IC 8002 and IC 6501.


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18391399
> 
> 
> I was worried because the Sony DA-4 Service Manual, as well as the TSM site, mentioned that some other parts should be replaced with IC 8002 and IC 6501.



I also did not replace the 2 resistors and capacitors mentioned on the tristatemodule site (the trepidation of my first ever successful soldering was enough*!*), and apparently 95% of the posters here also did not replace them - and were likewise rewarded with a working set.


My _deluxe TV unobtanium_ works, and if the 6/7 blinks should ever return then I shall order and replace those easily obtainable parts, along with the spare [and possibly in the future _unobtainium_] MCZ3001DB ICs which I have on hand.










I expect this TV to be the last I will ever buy.


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/18391557
> 
> 
> I expect this TV to be the last I will ever buy.



I though this tv should last longer. After five years, i had this blinking problem. Without the information from this site, it should be somewhere for recycling as the Sony Parts quoted $700.00 for the Dboard. I have to say thanks once again to the poeple here. I hope my tv last little bit longer after this fixing(I bought it about 6 years ago with extended warranty, which ended last June).


----------



## sonykv40xbr800

I hope you can help me, I have a Sony kv40xbr800, just yesterday for the first time the tv does not power on, even though it worked just 1 hour previously, the standby red light flashes 7 times. I unplugged it for 10 minutes and plugged it back but still the same, after reading much of the thread on this site especially the detailed instructions Eclipsedave did in post #108 I was about to order and replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips and sockets, but I first unplugged the TV and left it unplugged for 24 hours, I just plugged it back in the outlet and the TV works fine and the blinking also stopped.

I would appreciate if anyone can suggest what happened and the reason why the TV is now working. Also should I proceed and still replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18394360
> 
> 
> I hope you can help me, I have a Sony kv40xbr800, just yesterday for the first time the tv does not power on, even though it worked just 1 hour previously, the standby red light flashes 7 times. I unplugged it for 10 minutes and plugged it back but still the same, after reading much of the thread on this site especially the detailed instructions Eclipsedave did in post #108 I was about to order and replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips and sockets, but I first unplugged the TV and left it unplugged for 24 hours, I just plugged it back in the outlet and the TV works fine and the blinking also stopped.
> 
> I would appreciate if anyone can suggest what happened and the reason why the TV is now working. Also should I proceed and still replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips


*sonykv40xbr800*: Yeah, I'd continue on with your repair, because the intervals of required shutoff time will increase in order to get your set to power up again. I guess that's the chips slowly dying...

It's virtually the same thing everywhere.


I fixed my Sony kv34xbr800 around 2 years ago and my set died again. I tried new chips in a qwik socket-enabled change, but no-go this time. Still no answer from this group, so I'll likely buy yet one more set of chips and try those. Past that, I'll have to pay to get it repaired at a pro shop...HAAALP!


----------



## Blessedon

Gee Dave, maybe the caps and resistors need upgrading too. Hopefully that would do it.


----------



## Mark Goetz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18394566
> 
> *sonykv40xbr800*: Yeah, I'd continue on with your repair, because the intervals of required shutoff time will increase in order to get your set to power up again. I guess that's the chips slowly dying...
> 
> It's virtually the same thing everywhere.
> 
> 
> I fixed my Sony kv34xbr800 around 2 years ago and my set died again. I tried new chips in a qwik socket-enabled change, but no-go this time. Still no answer from this group, so I'll likely buy yet one more set of chips and try those. Past that, I'll have to pay to get it repaired at a pro shop...HAAALP!



Well I wish I could give you some advice







. Is it giving you the 6/7 blinks this time?

I have repaired my TV with success. But, when I tried to fix a friends Sony I didn't have as much luck. In fact when I replaced the MCZ's His stopped working all together, more or less, I hear the power up relay clicking but that's it, nothing else happens, Don't even get the blinks. I tried a few other things (like: checking the stand-bye power and some other things I found), but no further then when I started the repair







Sadly I finally had to tell him it's either take it to a repair shop or buy a new TV.

As for my TV's repair? It is still working just fine.


----------



## MONSTER MAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18269306
> 
> 
> KV-34xbr800...I replaced the MCZ's about 2 years ago using sockets and had a great repair until about 3 months ago. Prior to it dying the 2nd time, I too saw a little discoloration on the lower left corner of the screen. I tried ordering and replacing the MCZ's with new ones--Didn't fix it. Only thing I know to do is to try ordering a few more MCZ's to rule out a bad set. It is still the same old 6-blink deal and I suspect it can't be too difficult to fix. I just don't know how to do it. I refuse to throw this set away. I will either fix it myself or pay someone to come out and fix it. It cost me $2500 when it was brand new and even a $400 repair bill would be worth it to me. Especially since the repair would give me back the very best TV I've ever owned with the very best picture I've ever seen. Make that TWO pictures, cuz I can watch stuff on the left and the right! Wikkid. Any ideas from anyone on what we should do?! Thanks--You guys are great!



Just throwing out some ideas (which you probably already know). Are your solder joints clean? Not having too much solder especially if touching adjoining joints or too little solder not making a solid connection? Also, skipping the joints that weren't initially soldered? Did you install the IC's in the proper orientation? Were the new IC's shipped in an anti-static bag? Were you properly grounded while handling the IC's and/or the circuit board?


Do you have that third MCZ3001D on the A-Board, might try replacing that if you do. My KV32HV600 doesn't have that third MCZ3001D IC, but instead has the discontinued (CXA8070AP) IC. Last resort might be to remove the D-Board and check all the solder joints underneath. Sorry, if these suggestions aren't helpful. Luckily for me, just replacing the 8002 and 6501 IC's worked for me.


----------



## eclipsedave

Thanks all...Yes, same old 6/7 blink deal. Solder is good. And there's no MCZ chip on the A-board that I know of. I think it was that same old IC903 or something like that.


I wasn't initially aware of this, but I finally found TSM's info regarding the other parts:


-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.

-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.


I'll place an order and get to it. I hope that fixes it then...You'll certainly get an update...


It would make perfect sense to me that it would be a capacitor, cuz it makes the click-click sound when I try to turn it on and I would assume that's the capacitor draining right back out, like you hear under the hood when a car cools down and maybe that cap is meant to pack some energy until it reaches a certain level and then releases with a WONK! and the tube fires up. Hey I'm only guessing here...

I'd like to read all of your opinions on that theory...Thanks all...This is still the best thread ever.


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18396186
> 
> 
> I wasn't initially aware of this, but I finally found TSM's info regarding the other parts:
> 
> 
> -Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended
> 
> -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.
> 
> -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.
> 
> 
> I'll place an order and get to it. I hope that fixes it then...You'll certainly get an update...
> 
> 
> It would make perfect sense to me that it would be a capacitor, cuz it makes the click-click sound when I try to turn it on and I would assume that's the capacitor draining right back out, like you hear under the hood when a car cools down and maybe that cap is meant to pack some energy until it reaches a certain level and then releases with a WONK! and the tube fires up. Hey I'm only guessing here...
> 
> I'd like to read all of your opinions on that theory...Thanks all...This is still the best thread ever.



I was wondering; if one of those capacitors or resistors failed, would it take an IC with it??


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18394360
> 
> 
> I hope you can help me, I have a Sony kv40xbr800, just yesterday for the first time the tv does not power on, even though it worked just 1 hour previously, the standby red light flashes 7 times. I unplugged it for 10 minutes and plugged it back but still the same, after reading much of the thread on this site especially the detailed instructions Eclipsedave did in post #108 I was about to order and replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips and sockets, but I first unplugged the TV and left it unplugged for 24 hours, I just plugged it back in the outlet and the TV works fine and the blinking also stopped.
> 
> I would appreciate if anyone can suggest what happened and the reason why the TV is now working. Also should I proceed and still replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips



I have the same tv, which had a similar standby light brinking problem for more than one month. At the end, I replaced IC8002 on Dboard. It is working now.


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/18396452
> 
> 
> I was wondering; if one of those capacitors or resistors failed, would it take an IC with it??



That sounds like a real possibility to me...


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18394566
> 
> *sonykv40xbr800*: Yeah, I'd continue on with your repair, because the intervals of required shutoff time will increase in order to get your set to power up again. I guess that's the chips slowly dying...
> 
> It's virtually the same thing everywhere.
> 
> 
> I fixed my Sony kv34xbr800 around 2 years ago and my set died again. I tried new chips in a qwik socket-enabled change, but no-go this time. Still no answer from this group, so I'll likely buy yet one more set of chips and try those. Past that, I'll have to pay to get it repaired at a pro shop...HAAALP!



Hi ECLIPSEDAVE, it was great hearing from you and thanks very much for your comments. I was actually encouraged by your very impressive and detailed post #108 that lead me to become a member of this forum. So far my TV is still working, I will purchase the 2 chips and the soldering tools so that I will be prepared to install them.

For those of you who maybe interested to know what causes this power failure , I was told by a Sony repair technician that the MCZ 3001DB chips are part of the power supply and replacing them should fix the power supply. Apparently this is a common problem, that the power supply goes bad after several years of use and the common cure is just replacing these 2 chips.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18398723
> 
> 
> I have the same tv, which had a similar standby light brinking problem for more than one month. At the end, I replaced IC8002 on Dboard. It is working now.



Hi *louiselulu*

Did you also change IC6501 or just IC8002, what I would like to confirm is when I purchase 2-MCZ3001DB chips, do I receive 1-ic8002 and 1-ic6501

I found this listing on Ebay

"LOT OF (2) MCZ3001DB IC + SOCKET - MCZ3001D 670581001"

are these the 2 chips and sockets that I will need

thanks


----------



## louiselulu

I bought a lot of two ICs with two matching sockets on Ebay, and eventually I changed both ICs. However, IC8002 was faulty. After first replacing IC8002, my tv can be turned on and off without problem. However, the standby light blinks several times each time I turn on the tv (you can hear the sound from the speakers, but have to wait for the standby light blinks betweeb 3 to 11 times before the tv is on. It seems some part(s) need to be warmed up before the picture comes out). The change of IC6501 later did not make any improvement (i would replace both if I should do it again, as it was not too hard to repalce them, but the tv was too heavy to move around. I had no previous soldering experience at all). I realised later that you actually don't have to move the tv. Just remove the screws from back cover, and tilt the tv forward little bit, then you can slide the back cover out.


In short, I changed both IC8002 and IC6501 even though only IC8002 was faulty for my tv. It works fine right now for several days, but I am paranoid about blinking light since.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18402364
> 
> 
> I bought a lot of two ICs with two matching sockets on Ebay, and eventually I changed both ICs. However, IC8002 was faulty. After first replacing IC8002, my tv can be turned on and off without problem. However, the standby light blinks several times each time I turn on the tv (you can hear the sound from the speakers, but have to wait for the standby light blinks betweeb 3 to 11 times before the tv is on. It seems some part(s) need to be warmed up before the picture comes out). The change of IC6501 later did not make any improvement (i would replace both if I should do it again, as it was not too hard to repalce them, but the tv was too heavy to move around. I had no previous soldering experience at all). I realised later that you actually don't have to move the tv. Just remove the screws from back cover, and tilt the tv forward little bit, then you can slide the back cover out.
> 
> 
> In short, I changed both IC8002 and IC6501 even though only IC8002 was faulty for my tv. It works fine right now for several days, but I am paranoid about blinking light since.



I have a general questions about these ic, can anyone explain the difference between the MCZ3001DB IC and IC8002 and IC6501, what I am confused is when you replace the MCZ3001DB IC, is that the same as changing IC8002 , IC6501 or IC6502?


----------



## eclipsedave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18406238
> 
> 
> I have a general questions about these ic, can anyone explain the difference between the MCZ3001DB IC and IC8002 and IC6501, what I am confused is when you replace the MCZ3001DB IC, is that the same as changing IC8002 , IC6501 or IC6502?



The same MCZ3001DB chip will work in both IC6501 and IC8002 "locations".


The MCZ3001DB chip is the latest version of the chip, which replaced the faulty MCZ3001D chips.


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18406757
> 
> 
> The same MCZ3001DB chip will work in both IC6501 and IC8002 "locations".
> 
> 
> The MCZ3001DB chip is the latest version of the chip, which replaced the faulty MCZ3001D chips.



Right. Or, put another way;

The chip originally supplied to Sony by Shendigen was the MCZ3001D. Which was replaced by the improved MCZ3001D*B* (probably because Sony pitched a fit about the premature failures)

The designation IC6501 & 8002 simply refer to Sony's name on the schematic for where on the circuit board that the MCZ3001D (*B*) chips are located.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/18409087
> 
> 
> Right. Or, put another way;
> 
> The chip originally supplied to Sony by Shendigen was the MCZ3001D. Which was replaced by the *improved* MCZ3001D*B* (probably because Sony pitched a fit about the *premature* failures)



Hi there


The MCZ3001DB is not an "improved" part; it is just a "revised" part. Nobody has provided evidence that the part has "improved" or what changed. Parts get revised for many reasons, and a change for cost reduction is far more common than a performance or reliability "improvement".


The MCZ3001DB part can fail (after several years) just like its predecessor; if you look back in this thread you'll find several reports of people (including me) finding the MCZ3001DB as original parts.


Linear (as opposed to digital) ICs do not have an infinite lifespan, especially those used in power circuits, such as these chips. It can be long, but certainly not guaranteed as forever. So your label of "premature failure" is not accurate. Note that there are many components (e.g. electrolytic caps) in the TV that are rated for only a few thousand-hours of service life.


My guess is that the circuit stresses these ICs, so that these ICs are most likely to be the first component to fail on the board (after several years of use). If a component is operated near its operational limits and then has a tendency to fail after a couple thousand hours, that is a design issue rather than the fault of the component.


Regards


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/18409087
> 
> 
> Right. Or, put another way;
> 
> The chip originally supplied to Sony by Shendigen was the MCZ3001D. Which was replaced by the improved MCZ3001D*B* (probably because Sony pitched a fit about the premature failures)
> 
> The designation IC6501 & 8002 simply refer to Sony's name on the schematic for where on the circuit board that the MCZ3001D (*B*) chips are located.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/18406757
> 
> 
> The same MCZ3001DB chip will work in both IC6501 and IC8002 "locations".
> 
> 
> The MCZ3001DB chip is the latest version of the chip, which replaced the faulty MCZ3001D chips.



Thanks very much for for the detailed explanation and both of your answers cleared up my confusion, I did not realize that ic6501 and ic8002 was the actual location on the D board where the MCZ3001Db chips are located, now it all makes sense, You guys are the best.


----------



## lcaillo

We originally assumed that the db version of the chips was an improved part, but over the years we have not seen much difference in the reliability of the two. Lots of sets have the db version in them and they fail as well.


----------



## jonz

My KV-32HS510 just died with the 6LED blink.


Im not comfortable opening this thing up and soldering, but I copied and pasted all the 510 info here as well as the service manual for the repair guy.


Thanks for the info here.


----------



## anjilinexile

I'm trying to find a solution for my out of state friend. She was saying they just lost picture. The repairman said it needed an "A board" replacement? does that make sense or is this repairman on crack?


----------



## jdre

*louiselulu:*The blinking standby after you power on is normal, both of my Sonys do it, until it's ready to show picture. I often get 11 blinks.


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/18461264
> 
> *louiselulu:*The blinking standby after you power on is normal, both of my Sonys do it, until it's ready to show picture. I often get 11 blinks.



Thanks very much. The TV has been working fine since I replaced the two ICs. However, each time I turn on the TV since, I nervously and obsessively count the number of blinking. It is kind of crazy.


----------



## eclipsedave

kv-34xbr800 2nd go around repair status:


I just ordered these from TSM and they said the order was small enough that they could probably do US Postal instead of UPS:

(2) .1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.

(2) 1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea


I located all 4 parts on the D-board and will replace them as soon as the parts arrive. They are easy to access, as they reside right around the edge, right where the MCZ culprits hang out...

More later...

-Dave


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18389286
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for the people posted to this thread. I think I have fixed my tv, but with an issue I need someone's help or comments. I have no previou experience on soldering at all.
> 
> 
> My 40XBR800 TV started blinking 6/7 times during the Winter Olympics. After I found the information posted here, I ordered two ICs with sockets on Ebay. I turned tv face down with 4 plastic stools supporting it at each corner (300 lbs monster). After removing the back cover, IC 8002 was just located on the upper left corner of the Dboard, but IC 6501 was behind a plastic bar of the supporting tray. After left tv unplugged for a few days, I managed to turn on the tv with the self diagnosis screen on. It showed that the tv had VSTOP (4), LOWB (6), and H-STOP (7) faults.
> 
> 
> I started fixing IC 8002 first with the Dboard in place, desoldering it with desoldering braid bought from Source (Radio Shock), and replacing the IC with a new one sitting on the socket, which was soldered to place quite easily. I removed most, but not all the solder, as my friend told me it should work even with some old solder left there. I can now turn on the tv without any problem. However, I noticed that the Standby light is blinking randomly each time I turn on the tv. It blinks from 4 times to 11 times without repeating; then tv is on. It seems when the first time the tv is turned on, it usually blinks 11 times; then blinks between 4 to 7 times each time if I turn off and on the tv again.
> 
> 
> I then replaced IC6501 as I thought it might be faulty. But I have the same issue, i.e., standby light blinks randomly each time tv is turned on (I thought it was about 3 times before the tv was broken). Anyone has any idea about this. Should I worries about it?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the great information, and nice people. I enjoy reading the thread.



Hi *louiselulu* or anyone else I am about to remove the back of my Sony 40XBR800, can you please verify what screws I need to remove, so far I have remove 15 screws from both sides, just wondering if there were any others, also I need to pull the TV from against the wall and I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs. Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground. The TV is quite heavy so I was wondering what was the best way to get to the D board where the chip is located, some has suggested turning the TV over on its face but this TV is over 200lbs, thanks


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18478350
> 
> 
> I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs.



If you mean the legs of the stand, then probably not, especially if the stand is on carpet.



> Quote:
> Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground.



You are confused. If you are grounded and then touch something charged then you receive an electrical shock. You do not want to be the perfect path to ground while working on equipment. The second rule is to not use two hands. If one hand is grounded and then the other hand touches a high-voltage source, the electrical path is across your chest, where your heart is.


If you (your body) have built up an electrical charge, then you need to discharge (get rid of) that static electricity by touching something grounded. Electronic components are susceptible to damage from static discharges. So you have to ground yourself before you touch/handle electronics, and then un-ground yourself while working on the chassis.


Learn these basic rules of electricity before any repair attempts. Screw up, and you can seriously hurt yourself.


Regards


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18478350
> 
> 
> Hi *louiselulu* or anyone else I am about to remove the back of my Sony 40XBR800, can you please verify what screws I need to remove, so far I have remove 15 screws from both sides, just wondering if there were any others, also I need to pull the TV from against the wall and I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs. Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground. The TV is quite heavy so I was wondering what was the best way to get to the D board where the chip is located, some has suggested turning the TV over on its face but this TV is over 200lbs, thanks



The service manual indicates 4 screws each along the top and two sides and 6 screws on the I/O panel. BTW, don't use an electric screwdriver for this. The rear cover should slide off. The bottom chassis can be placed in a service position that allows access to the bottom of the D board without laying the tube down.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18478464
> 
> 
> If you mean the legs of the stand, then probably not, especially if the stand is on carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are confused. If you are grounded and then touch something charged then you receive an electrical shock. You do not want to be the perfect path to ground while working on equipment. The second rule is to not use two hands. If one hand is grounded and then the other hand touches a high-voltage source, the electrical path is across your chest, where your heart is.
> 
> 
> If you (your body) has built up an electrical charge, then you need to discharge (get rid of) that static electricity by touching something grounded. Electronic components are susceptible to damage from static discharges. So you have to ground yourself before you touch/handle electronics, and then un-ground yourself while working on the chassis.
> 
> 
> Learn these basic rules of electricity before any repair attempts. Screw up, and you can seriously hurt yourself.
> 
> 
> Regards



Hi *Blue Z*

Thanks very much for your reply and yes the TV is sitting on the carpet and I meant the 2 legs of the TV right side and left side, other than those 2 legs its quite difficult to move the TV as the TV stands on a flat base board supported by the 2 legs. So how else can this TV be moved as I need more space away from the wall to remove the back cover.


Your answer to the ground issue was not too clear, but it appears from you you are saying is that I should not ground myself to any other metal other than the TV, I have never done any soldering on a TV before and was just seeking general guidelines


----------



## lcaillo

Ground the work, not yourself. Good quality soldering equipment has a grounded tip to discharge static. There are two issues with grounding for this kind of work. One is dischaging static electricity that might damage a component, the other is safety. With respect to static, one may use a ground strap and thus ground one's body, but this is NOT advised when there is a potiential source of current that can be a safety issue. Working on a set in the field that may have charged components or may have live circuits connected is why one would not want they body to be a ground path.


Be safe, make sure that the set is disconnected from power and the charged components are discharged before servicing. Use properly grounded equipement to prevent static discharge.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcaillo* /forum/post/18480929
> 
> 
> Ground the work, not yourself. Good quality soldering equipment has a grounded tip to discharge static. There are two issues with grounding for this kind of work. One is dischaging static electricity that might damage a component, the other is safety. With respect to static, one may use a ground strap and thus ground one's body, but this is NOT advised when there is a potiential source of current that can be a safety issue. Working on a set in the field that may have charged components or may have live circuits connected is why one would not want they body to be a ground path.
> 
> 
> Be safe, make sure that the set is disconnected from power and the charged components are discharged before servicing. Use properly grounded equipement to prevent static discharge.



I unplugged the TV about 3 days now, is it still possible that it still contains live current that I should be concerned about, how do you ground the TV


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18478350
> 
> 
> Hi *louiselulu* or anyone else I am about to remove the back of my Sony 40XBR800, can you please verify what screws I need to remove, so far I have remove 15 screws from both sides, just wondering if there were any others, also I need to pull the TV from against the wall and I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs. Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground. The TV is quite heavy so I was wondering what was the best way to get to the D board where the chip is located, some has suggested turning the TV over on its face but this TV is over 200lbs, thanks



I didn't count the number of the srews I removed, but I remembered that I removed all the srews with an arrow sign beside the srews all along the four sides of the tv. There are at least two that tighten the rear cover to the outlet panel at back. All the srews I removed are the same type. You can check page 11 of the Service Manual as a reference (The picture is for a different tv model).


It seems to me that the tv is easy to be moved with rear cover on (300 lb according to the user manual). My tv sits on an original matching stand. I turned it face down with the help of my two friends, and put it onto four plastic stepstools on each corner of the tv. This way, you can check if the tv is on without turn it back up after you replace the ICs. However, the best way I think is to just move you tv forward so that you have enough room to work at the back. The chasis assembly can be pulled out and turned up to the service position (see the instruction on page 11 of the Service Manual). Be sure all the wires are loosened (not unplugged) so you don't break or disconnect any of them accidently when you pull the chasis out.


The two ICs are located at the left up corner. Take a lot of pictures from different angles around the chasis before you work on it so that you can compare them if there is anything wrong. Good luck for your repair.


BTY, I didn't have any previous experience on soldering. So I practiced a little bit on a old telephone board before I worked on the D board. It really helped.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18485556
> 
> 
> I didn't count the number of the srews I removed, but I remembered that I removed all the srews with an arrow sign beside the srews all along the four sides of the tv. There are at least two that tighten the rear cover to the outlet panel at back. All the srews I removed are the same type. You can check page 11 of the Service Manual as a reference (The picture is for a different tv model).
> 
> 
> It seems to me that the tv is easy to be moved with rear cover on (300 lb according to the user manual). My tv sits on an original matching stand. I turned it face down with the help of my two friends, and put it onto four plastic stepstools on each corner of the tv. This way, you can check if the tv is on without turn it back up after you replace the ICs. However, the best way I think is to just move you tv forward so that you have enough room to work at the back. The chasis assembly can be pulled out and turned up to the service position (see the instruction on page 11 of the Service Manual). Be sure all the wires are loosened (not unplugged) so you don't break or disconnect any of them accidently when you pull the chasis out.
> 
> 
> The two ICs are located at the left up corner. Take a lot of pictures from different angles around the chasis before you work on it so that you can compare them if there is anything wrong. Good luck for your repair.
> 
> 
> BTY, I didn't have any previous experience on soldering. So I practiced a little bit on a old telephone board before I worked on the D board. It really helped.



Hi *Louiselulu* Thanks very much for your advise and help, finally I was able to completely remove the cover there was a total of 23 screws in case anyone else was curious. As you advised I looked at page 11 of the service manual and was able to locate the 2 latches that hold the D board, I released them both and was able to pull the board out but not completely as the wire harness that connects the board to the tube is quite extensive. I am actually attempting to complete this soldering and extracting process of the chips from behind the TV since I am not able to lift the TV off the stand and tilt it forward as the weight of the TV is a bit intimidating.

So I am exploring the possibilities of disconnecting the various wires so as to make it easier to pull out the D board and eventually turn it upright into the service position, however there is 1 large Red wire that connects the picture tube to the D board that appears to be a problem, the others are just connected to pins that can easily be taken out, so I am planning to remove the wires that are accessible and hopefully I will have more space to rotate the D board into the service position .


I do have one additional question about the IC removal, how do you actually remove the chip using the Soldering Iron.

So far I purchased the following at Radio Shack

1.30Watt Soldering Gun

2.Desoldering Braid

3.Vacuum Desoldering Bulb

3.60/40 Rosin Core Solder

On Ebay I purchased

(2) MCZ3001DB IC + SOCKET - MCZ3001D


If you could give me a step by step procedure for the removal and replacing of the IC, I would highly appreciate it as I have no experience using Desoldering Braid

Thanks


----------



## Klutzy

Ok, well, my KV-34XBR910 bit the dust last weekend and had an error code of 6 blinks. I started digging through the avsforums for some answers and came across this thread.


I went ahead and called a technician to come over ($80 just for the visit) just to confirm. I also ordered the IC's ahead of time planning on putting them in myself if the repairs were going to cost too much.


I told the tech guy what I had found online and he said he wasn't familiar with it, and that they usually just replace the D-board. He told me he'd go ahead and solder the IC's in for an extra $20. I said SURE and sure enough it started right up!! What a great feeling! And I was only out $100. well, I got the IC's for like $15. After inspecting the IC's more closely sure enough they were the DB version. I've had this set for 6 years now, so I'd consider that pretty decent.


Just wanted to give a HUGE shout out to all the "experts" on here sharing advice and experience. Honestly, I didn't have to even ask one question on the forum, because all my questions were answered!! RobertF, Eclipsedave, Mark Goetz...just to name a few; thanks for taking the time to share. Another set saved!!!


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Klutzy* /forum/post/18494986
> 
> 
> Ok, well, my KV-34XBR910 bit the dust last weekend and had an error code of 6 blinks. I started digging through the avsforums for some answers and came across this thread.
> 
> 
> I went ahead and called a technician to come over ($80 just for the visit) just to confirm. I also ordered the IC's ahead of time planning on putting them in myself if the repairs were going to cost too much.
> 
> 
> I told the tech guy what I had found online and he said he wasn't familiar with it, and that they usually just replace the D-board. He told me he'd go ahead and solder the IC's in for an extra $20. I said SURE and sure enough it started right up!! What a great feeling! And I was only out $100. well, I got the IC's for like $15. After inspecting the IC's more closely sure enough they were the DB version. I've had this set for 6 years now, so I'd consider that pretty decent.
> 
> 
> Just wanted to give a HUGE shout out to all the "experts" on here sharing advice and experience. Honestly, I didn't have to even ask one question on the forum, because all my questions were answered!! RobertF, Eclipsedave, Mark Goetz...just to name a few; thanks for taking the time to share. Another set saved!!!



hi *Klutzy* Congratulations, I am happy to hear of your success, just one question did the Tech replace both of the IC or just one, the D board has 2 DB IC, if you are viewing the D board from the back of the TV, one IC is located in the upper top position and the 2nd IC is located in the bottom lower position, Please verify if one or both were replaced and did he just pull out the board or tilt the TV over to do the soldering


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18496072
> 
> 
> hi *Klutzy* Congratulations, I am happy to hear of your success, just one question did the Tech replace both of the IC or just one, the D board has 2 DB IC, if you are viewing the D board from the back of the TV, one IC is located in the upper top position and the 2nd IC is located in the bottom lower position, Please verify if one or both were replaced and did he just pull out the board or tilt the TV over to do the soldering



I went ahead and just had him replace both IC's on the D-board (there is also one on the A-board). He left the tv upright, unplugged all the connections and then unscrewed and removed the board. He did leave the anode (big red wire that goes to the tube) plugged in. He turned it over and then went to work. Took about 10 minutes, because he put one in backwards so he had to take it out and do it over. I watched him the whole time, and honestly afterwards realized that I could have EASILY done this. Let me know if you have anymore specific questions.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Klutzy* /forum/post/18496154
> 
> 
> I went ahead and just had him replace both IC's on the D-board (there is also one on the A-board). He left the tv upright, unplugged all the connections and then unscrewed and removed the board. He did leave the anode (big red wire that goes to the tube) plugged in. He turned it over and then went to work. Took about 10 minutes, because he put one in backwards so he had to take it out and do it over. I watched him the whole time, and honestly afterwards realized that I could have EASILY done this. Let me know if you have anymore specific questions.



hi *KLUTZY*Great hearing from you and thanks a million for the detailed response,your information will be a tremendous asset to me, I was questioning in my earlier post about what to do about the RED Anode wire, now I will not attempt to remove it and I am also quite happy that you shared with me that he also removed the screws that connects the D board to the frame, as I was also thinking of removing them. I did notice that the D board was connected to the A board with 4 large IC pins, do you know if he unplugged these 4 pins, do they come out easily . Yes I did notice that there was 1 IC on the A board. Anyhow I will make another attempt at removing the IC tomorrow and once again, thanks very much for sharing this information with the Forum and I will post my progress soon.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18496342
> 
> 
> hi *KLUTZY*Great hearing from you and thanks a million for the detailed response,your information will be a tremendous asset to me, I was questioning in my earlier post about what to do about the RED Anode wire, now I will not attempt to remove it and I am also quite happy that you shared with me that he also removed the screws that connects the D board to the frame, as I was also thinking of removing them. I did notice that the D board was connected to the A board with 4 large IC pins, do you know if he unplugged these 4 pins, do they come out easily . Yes I did notice that there was 1 IC on the A board. Anyhow I will make another attempt at removing the IC tomorrow and once again, thanks very much for sharing this information with the Forum and I will post my progress soon.



Hey man, no problem. Yes, he did disconnect the 4 large IC pins. He just unplugged them and folded them over. Definitely post your progress!


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18491668
> 
> 
> Hi *Louiselulu*
> 
> 
> I do have one additional question about the IC removal, how do you actually remove the chip using the Soldering Iron.
> 
> So far I purchased the following at Radio Shack
> 
> 1.30Watt Soldering Gun
> 
> 2.Desoldering Braid
> 
> 3.Vacuum Desoldering Bulb
> 
> 3.60/40 Rosin Core Solder
> 
> On Ebay I purchased
> 
> (2) MCZ3001DB IC + SOCKET - MCZ3001D
> 
> 
> If you could give me a step by step procedure for the removal and replacing of the IC, I would highly appreciate it as I have no experience using Desoldering Braid
> 
> Thanks



I borrowed a soldering iron from my friend, which comes with a piece of hard sponge. You need to clear the iron tip by touching the wet sponge often. I felt the soldering iron worked better each time after touching the wet sponge. I strongly suggest you practise a little bit with any electric board before working on the ICs (I used an old telephone board) if you have no previous soldering experience.


I used desoldering braid to remove the old solder. I melted the solder around the leg of the IC first; then poked the melted solder with the braid. It drew the melted solder into it. My friend, who had previous tv repair experience, told me that you don't have to remove the old solder completely. It seems O.K. to me as long as the leg is loosened. I found it is easier to melt old solder by adding some new solder around the leg first (someone mentioned it in this thread). You can verify that if the leg is loosened by poking the leg gently with your finger. You may try to clear the old solder around the holes after you remove the IC, but don't overdo it. I was told the metal ring around the holes is easy to be peeled off by heating too long.


After removed the IC, I inserted a socket to the place and immobilized it with tape (make sure it is in right orientation). Soldering the IC is much easier than desoldering. Touch both the leg and metal ring with hot iron tip at the same time; then apply just enough new solder to it. Slowly take away the soldering iron. If you applied too much solder, you may remove some with the braid.


I replaced IC8002 first which fixed problem. However, I also replaced the second IC (IC6501) as I thought it was faulty too (It is apparent the second IC is fine). My tv has been working fine since.


I didn't use desoldering bulb, so I couldn't comment on its use. Take some pictures before desoldering so you can compare it after you replace the IC. Good luck.


I didn't disconnect any wire, and left the D board in place. I cut the plastic bar that blocks the access to the second IC.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Klutzy* /forum/post/18496694
> 
> 
> Hey man, no problem. Yes, he did disconnect the 4 large IC pins. He just unplugged them and folded them over. Definitely post your progress!



hi *KLUTZY* Question on those 4 large black IC pins, do you know exactly how the technician removed them, did he use a special tool, you mention that he unplugged them and folded them over, they are tightly connected and I am not sure to which direction they fold whether its to the right or left but more important is how did he unplug them, I tried pulling them up with my fingers but no luck there must be some tool that was used to pull them out, I removed all the screws with no problem.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18507034
> 
> 
> hi *KLUTZY* Question on those 4 large black IC pins, do you know exactly how the technician removed them, did he use a special tool, you mention that he unplugged them and folded them over, they are tightly connected and I am not sure to which direction they fold whether its to the right or left but more important is how did he unplug them, I tried pulling them up with my fingers but no luck there must be some tool that was used to pull them out, I removed all the screws with no problem.



My first thought was wondering if maybe the 40xbr800 differs from the 34xbr910. I'm thinking they are quite similar though.


You know, he was unplugging everything so quickly I might have missed if he used some sort of tool on those 4 IC's. He did use a tool to remove the IC's that were being replaced after he desoldered them. Looked kinda like scissors with "grabbers" on the end instead of being sharp.


He definitely disconnected them from the D-board though and left them connected on the other side. Just to be sure, you're referring to the IC that you can barely see in the upper right-hand corner of this picture and then 3 others like it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1210071103 


Here's a picture of another tool that would work perhaps. Or something like it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1210071478 


He unplugged everything very quickly, so I don't think it seemed to be very complicated.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Question on those 4 large black IC pins



What you guys keep on referring to as "IC"s between the D and A boards are not ICs. "IC" is the acronym for Integrated Circuit, aka "chip" or "silicon". Those four items are just *connectors*, made of plastic and wire. Maybe they resemble ICs because there are two rows of pins, but that pin configuration is called _DIP_, for Dual Inline Package. DIP is not synonymous with IC.


These DIP connectors pop off on the D board side. The A board side is the pivot point. You'll want to pop the connector _up_ on the D board, if you can get your fingernail under the bar, rather than pull on the whole connector.


Regards


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18507844
> 
> 
> What you guys keep on referring to as "IC"s between the D and A boards are not ICs. "IC" is the acronym for Integrated Circuit, aka "chip" or "silicon". Those four items are just *connectors*, made of plastic and wire. Maybe they resemble ICs because there are two rows of pins, but that pin configuration is called _DIP_, for Dual Inline Package. DIP is not synonymous with IC.
> 
> 
> These DIP connectors pop off on the D board side. The A board side is the pivot point. You'll want to pop the connector _up_ on the D board, if you can get your fingernail under the bar, rather than pull on the whole connector.
> 
> 
> Regards



Learn something new everyday. Since they looked similar I just called it that. Thanks blue, for the info!


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Klutzy* /forum/post/18507166
> 
> 
> My first thought was wondering if maybe the 40xbr800 differs from the 34xbr910. I'm thinking they are quite similar though.
> 
> 
> You know, he was unplugging everything so quickly I might have missed if he used some sort of tool on those 4 IC's. He did use a tool to remove the IC's that were being replaced after he desoldered them. Looked kinda like scissors with "grabbers" on the end instead of being sharp.
> 
> 
> He definitely disconnected them from the D-board though and left them connected on the other side. Just to be sure, you're referring to the IC that you can barely see in the upper right-hand corner of this picture and then 3 others like it.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1210071103
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of another tool that would work perhaps. Or something like it.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1210071478
> 
> 
> He unplugged everything very quickly, so I don't think it seemed to be very complicated.



Thanks very much and yes those are the DIP connectors in your photo to the far right as explained by *BLUE* they connect the D board to the A board, I will try to unplug them with a small Tweezer or Pliers as he suggested. The D board from your 34xbr910 is very similar to my 40xbr800,


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18507844
> 
> 
> What you guys keep on referring to as "IC"s between the D and A boards are not ICs. "IC" is the acronym for Integrated Circuit, aka "chip" or "silicon". Those four items are just *connectors*, made of plastic and wire. Maybe they resemble ICs because there are two rows of pins, but that pin configuration is called _DIP_, for Dual Inline Package. DIP is not synonymous with IC.
> 
> 
> These DIP connectors pop off on the D board side. The A board side is the pivot point. You'll want to pop the connector _up_ on the D board, if you can get your fingernail under the bar, rather than pull on the whole connector.
> 
> 
> Regards



Hi *BLUE_Z*

Thanks for supplying correct name to what I was referring to as a IC chip so I will refer to it by its correct name *DIP* and I appreciate you clarifying the correct procedure to disconnect them from the D board, at least now I realize that they pull up from the D board towards the A board, I hope others reading this thread will benefit from our discussion as I have. I really do appreciate the contribution and sharing of ideas and once I am done with this project I do plan to contribute more from my own personal experience.


----------



## blue_z

You're welcome.

I don't know the proper name for those connectors, but just wanted you guys to stop calling them ICs.


Be sure to try disconnecting each of the four connectors with the same technique before you escalate with more force. Sometimes one will take less force than the others, and some might be more stubborn than the others. Once you pop one connector, you'll have a much better idea of undoing the others.


Regards



PS.

On the A board, the Sony part number is 1-779-890-11.

On the D board, the Sony part number is 1-779-892-11.

Both are described as "connector, board to board, 10P" (10 position).

One connector on the A board would be about $11 to replace.

And the D board side is about $14.


----------



## rtmach

I just did my kv40xbr800 for the second time and made the mistake of going too quick. I've done 4 of these repairs and thought I could fly thru it. Well it did not come on and no 6 blinks so I took them back out and took my time . I saw that I had some specks of solder from using the solder sucker and now would not recommend that and to use the wick.Anyway I got it right the second time. Also the first time I tried using sockets which I've only done 1 time before on a 27" and thought that might be an issue so I went back to no sockets. I also did the repair by putting the board in the service position and it was a lot easier than laying it on it's front. I only paid $100 for this and the matching stand and now about $25 in chips so I'm very happy to see it up and running again







I went ahead and bought a ten pack of the chips off ebay for $35 with free shipping but I do have 7 sony's that have these chips so they should last for awhile.


----------



## rtmach

After I did the first repair this set would go off when in the vivid setting. After today's repair and cleaning all traces and excess flux it now will stay on all the time , even with brightness and picture maxed out. That shows how just a little speck of solder can cause problems. Good Luck to all and take your time.


----------



## louiselulu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/18533839
> 
> 
> After I did the first repair this set would go off when in the vivid setting. After today's repair and cleaning all traces and excess flux it now will stay on all the time , even with brightness and picture maxed out. That shows how just a little speck of solder can cause problems. Good Luck to all and take your time.



Hi, rtmach: congratulaions. I am just curious to know, after your fix, how many times your tv blinks each time you turn it on. My blinks 11 times before the video is on, even though the audio is on almost right way. However, it blinks randomly after I turn it off then on again. Thanks very much.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/18533480
> 
> 
> I saw that I had some specks of solder from using the solder sucker and now would not recommend that and to use the wick.



While it's nice that you share your mistake so that others might not repeat them, there is no reason to go overboard and start giving poor advice. Use of a solder sucker is a good technique when the proper procedures are employed.


From soldering water pipes to electronics (single-sided and plated-through-hole PCBs as well as point-to-point), I've been taught/learned that proper solder technique includes preparation, clean-up and inspection as well as flowing solder onto a joint. Skimp on any of those steps, and you might have problems later, as you found out.


I dislike using solder wick because:

1. you can't see the joint while working.

2. the joint is only indirectly heated through the wick; you might get the surrounding area really hot, but not quite hot enough to melt the solder joint.

3. the wick leaves flux residue.

4. repeated application of the heated wick in order to get all the solder increases the risk of damaging the board by lifting the copper pad/trace.


Using a solder sucker is faster than using solder wick. Never have the sucker over or pointed at the board when squeezing the bulb or cocking the spring plunger. Be on the lookout for any big piece of solder falling out of the tip after suction. Clean up the solder specks when done with a vacuum and a brush (I posted this advice a while back) or adhesive tape.


Regards


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *louiselulu* /forum/post/18538860
> 
> 
> Hi, rtmach: congratulaions. I am just curious to know, after your fix, how many times your tv blinks each time you turn it on. My blinks 11 times before the video is on, even though the audio is on almost right way. However, it blinks randomly after I turn it off then on again. Thanks very much.



I just checked and it was 11 times when cold and 5 when it's been on for hours.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18538874
> 
> 
> While it's nice that you share your mistake so that others might not repeat them, there is no reason to go overboard and start giving poor advice. Use of a solder sucker is a good technique when the proper procedures are employed.
> 
> 
> From soldering water pipes to electronics (single-sided and plated-through-hole PCBs as well as point-to-point), I've been taught/learned that proper solder technique includes preparation, clean-up and inspection as well as flowing solder onto a joint. Skimp on any of those steps, and you might have problems later, as you found out.
> 
> 
> I dislike using solder wick because:
> 
> 1. you can't see the joint while working.
> 
> 2. the joint is only indirectly heated through the wick; you might get the surrounding area really hot, but not quite hot enough to melt the solder joint.
> 
> 3. the wick leaves flux residue.
> 
> 4. repeated application of the heated wick in order to get all the solder increases the risk of damaging the board by lifting the copper pad/trace.
> 
> 
> Using a solder sucker is faster than using solder wick. Never have the sucker over or pointed at the board when squeezing the bulb or cocking the spring plunger. Be on the lookout for any big piece of solder falling out of the tip after suction. Clean up the solder specks when done with a vacuum and a brush (I posted this advice a while back) or adhesive tape.
> 
> 
> Regards



I've had 3 successful repairs with the sucker so I'm not totally against it ,but using it in this repair with either the board in the service position or the tv laying on it's front puts the board in a horizontal position. that makes it more difficult to avoid splatter than if you were to remove the board completely and have it on a flat service. I also might have a crappy sucker , it was only $3 dollars on ebay







Almost all the members doing this repair are not tech's, including myself, so my point was to just take your time and look over carefully, I use a magnifying glass.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/18541365
> 
> 
> I've had 3 successful repairs with the sucker so I'm not totally against it ,but using it in this repair with either the board in the service position or the tv laying on it's front puts the board in a horizontal position. that makes it more difficult to avoid splatter than if you were to remove the board completely and have it on a flat service. I also might have a crappy sucker , it was only $3 dollars on ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost all the members doing this repair are not tech's, including myself, so my point was to just take your time and look over carefully, I use a magnifying glass.



"horizontal position" I meant vertical, oops


----------



## sonykv40xbr800

I was finally able to remove the 2 IC from my Sony 40xbr800, the desoldering wicks were excellent but I would highly recommend that you purchase a chip puller as the extraction was quite difficult. I did notice that on both the original IC I removed that pin number 13 and 17 were not soldered, so my question, is there a reason why they were not soldered and should I not solder those 2 pins when I replace them with the new IC


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18550788
> 
> 
> I was finally able to remove the 2 IC from my Sony 40xbr800, the desoldering wicks were excellent but I would highly recommend that you purchase a chip puller as the extraction was quite difficult. I did notice that on both the original IC I removed that pin number 13 and 17 were not soldered, so my question, is there a reason why they were not soldered and should I not solder those 2 pins when I replace them with the new IC



No need to solder, if you look close at the soldering area you won't see any area exposed to solder them to. Also you should not have to apply any force to remove the chips , you might damage the board. just keep removing solder until you can wiggle each pin freely then they will fall out with a little push from the bottom.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/18550968
> 
> 
> No need to solder, if you look close at the soldering area you won't see any area exposed to solder them to. Also you should not have to apply any force to remove the chips , you might damage the board. just keep removing solder until you can wiggle each pin freely then they will fall out with a little push from the bottom.



Hi rtmach, Great hearing from you and thanks very much for the information as I was not sure what to do. Yes you are right I looked at the area around these 2 pins and did not see any soldering, so I would imagine that there is a reason they were left un soldered. Unfortunately I did apply a bit of force when pulling IC6501 and a very small trace material at PIN#5 came up, I applied a small amount of solder to the area when I soldered the pin from the new IC


----------



## sonykv40xbr800

Just wanted to post my progress report on fixing my Sony 40xbr800, I posted earlier that the Tv stopped working and I was getting 7 blinks. Well after devoting much time to apply the knowledge I gained from this forum along with the help of many of you, unfortunately and sadly to say but I replaced both IC and after connecting the TV back together, I am now noticing that both the Standby and the Timer light blinks 7 times and the TV still does not work. I am lost as to why this has occurred.


I first soldered the sockets, then I inserted the IC into the sockets, I basically followed all the instructions from others on this forum. If anyone can make any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong or what I can do, then I would be most appreciative of your help.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18561494
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my progress report on fixing my Sony 40xbr800, I posted earlier that the Tv stopped working and I was getting 7 blinks. Well after devoting much time to apply the knowledge I gained from this forum along with the help of many of you, unfortunately and sadly to say but I replaced both IC and after connecting the TV back together, I am now noticing that both the Standby and the Timer light blinks 7 times and the TV still does not work. I am lost as to why this has occurred.
> 
> 
> I first soldered the sockets, then I inserted the IC into the sockets, I basically followed all the instructions from others on this forum. If anyone can make any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong or what I can do, then I would be most appreciative of your help.



Well there's always a possibility that the ICs were not the cause of the problem.


But here are some suggestions.


The first thing I would do is double check _every_ connector. It would be best to disconnect and reconnect everything. Look for connectors that you might have forgotten to reconnect. Those steps have worked for others.


Next I would take a close look at your soldering work. If you see anything questionable you can check for electrical continuity with a multi-meter. You can also re-flow all of your new solder connections.


Check for any pulled up PCB trace material from the original IC desoldering.


Double check the orientation of your ICs in the sockets. Make sure that the ICs are completely inserted into the sockets.


If you have spare MCZ3001D ICs, try swapping those with the installed one. It's a longshot but perhaps you have a bad IC.


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## iMoe

Problem: I have a Sony KV-36HS420 that would power on working but eventually power off showing either 6 or 7 flashes in stand-by mode.


Solution: I replaced both the 6501 and 8002 with new chips (MCZ3001DB) and sockets. I don't know if one or the other or both were bad (no way to test) so I just replaced them both. Both of these old chips were the MCZ3001DB series. I visually inspected the boards for bad caps or other problems but none were found. As of this writing the TV has been operating for five days with a combined time of over twenty hours of usage with not a single problem. My sincerest thanks to this forum. Without the information contained here I wouldn't have been able to fix my TV which was close to being recycled.


Thanks again.

iMoe


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iMoe* /forum/post/18566338
> 
> 
> Problem: I have a Sony KV-36HS420 that would power on working but eventually power off showing either 6 or 7 flashes in stand-by mode.
> 
> 
> Solution: I replaced both the 6501 and 8002 with new chips (MCZ3001DB) and sockets. I don't know if one or the other or both were bad (no way to test) so I just replaced them both. Both of these old chips were the MCZ3001DB series. I visually inspected the boards for bad caps or other problems but none were found. As of this writing the TV has been operating for five days with a combined time of over twenty hours of usage with not a single problem. My sincerest thanks to this forum. Without the information contained here I wouldn't have been able to fix my TV which was close to being recycled.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> iMoe



Congratulations on your successful repair! And thanks for sharing your story. What desoldering technique did you use?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18561494
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my progress report on fixing my Sony 40xbr800, I posted earlier that the Tv stopped working and I was getting 7 blinks. Well after devoting much time to apply the knowledge I gained from this forum along with the help of many of you, unfortunately and sadly to say but I replaced both IC and after connecting the TV back together, I am now noticing that both the Standby and the Timer light blinks 7 times and the TV still does not work. I am lost as to why this has occurred.
> 
> 
> I first soldered the sockets, then I inserted the IC into the sockets, I basically followed all the instructions from others on this forum. If anyone can make any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong or what I can do, then I would be most appreciative of your help.



Did you make sure the notches were at the right end, towards the right if looking from the front, there is a a mark on the board to match them to. I've had 4 successful repairs but 3 times I had to do it twice, _Bad Eye Sight and Shaky Hands_, so don't give up yet. I found that using a magnifying glass and a floodlight really helps. you said you had to pull hard to get the chips out , I would start there. the good news is you still have 7 blinks which means it's should be somewhere on that board. On my repair using sockets on my 27" I made sure the chips were firmly seated in the sockets with the notches lined up and then soldered the sockets in, worked first time. On my 40 I have changed the chips and sockets 3 times now and it works perfect at last without sockets. On my 36 the first time I had to just re flow the solder to get a better connection and that was it. If you still can't get it to work you can order a new one.

"*A1300319A

D COMPLETE*" at sony https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ec...zrjBbYG7xWsIAv 

you will also need this,

"*125171522

CAP ASSY, HIGH VOLTAGE*" https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ec...zrjBbYG7xWsIAv 

The board looks like it's not in stock but you can call and ask, it was in stock last week and has been there at times in the past 6 months, they say they will get more. I almost bought it last week after my sloppy job on my 40, turned out to be too much solder on a couple pins touching each other, but that caused a click 3 blinks then another click, no other flashing after that. I now use thinner solder. the links don't seem to work as a link but you can just type in the #'s in the search for a part number. If you call read them the #'s located in the center of the D board to make sure you get the right board, the new # is different than the original These are the #'s they gave me when I called for my 40xbr800. Both parts are less than $220 with shipping, not bad if you feel comfortable with a board change. That board is used on about 6-8 other models so they sell a few, so some days it's there, some days it's not. I have 3 sony's that use that board , so one of these days I will buy one for a backup.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18561494
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my progress report on fixing my Sony 40xbr800, I posted earlier that the Tv stopped working and I was getting 7 blinks. Well after devoting much time to apply the knowledge I gained from this forum along with the help of many of you, unfortunately and sadly to say but I replaced both IC and after connecting the TV back together, I am now noticing that both the Standby and the Timer light blinks 7 times and the TV still does not work. I am lost as to why this has occurred.
> 
> 
> I first soldered the sockets, then I inserted the IC into the sockets, I basically followed all the instructions from others on this forum. If anyone can make any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong or what I can do, then I would be most appreciative of your help.



Don't lose heart man! You got some good advice to check the connections and also to make sure the IC's were put in correctly. They only go in ONE way. There's a small dot that must line up with the slot that has a "1" by it. You might already have known that, but just to cover all the bases.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Klutzy* /forum/post/18567558
> 
> 
> Don't lose heart man! You got some good advice to check the connections and also to make sure the IC's were put in correctly. They only go in ONE way. There's a small dot that must line up with the slot that has a "1" by it. You might already have known that, but just to cover all the bases.




Thanks very much *KLutzy*, *rtmach* and *RobertF* for your kind support and recommendations, I was honestly heart broken when the TV did not work after all the time I devoted to fixing it and I was very careful and extremely patient so as not to make any mistakes, but after reading your suggestions, it has given me the encouragement and the motivation to re inspect everything that I did, because I honestly was about to give up and call a technician, so I will take all your ideas and get back to you soon.

And with all sincerity I want to take this opportunity to thank you all for your time and kind support in helping me.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/18561893
> 
> 
> Well there's always a possibility that the ICs were not the cause of the problem.
> 
> 
> But here are some suggestions.
> 
> 
> The first thing I would do is double check _every_ connector. It would be best to disconnect and reconnect everything. Look for connectors that you might have forgotten to reconnect. Those steps have worked for others.
> 
> 
> Next I would take a close look at your soldering work. If you see anything questionable you can check for electrical continuity with a multi-meter. You can also re-flow all of your new solder connections.
> 
> 
> Check for any pulled up PCB trace material from the original IC de-soldering.
> 
> 
> Double check the orientation of your ICs in the sockets. Make sure that the ICs are completely inserted into the sockets.
> 
> 
> If you have spare MCZ3001D ICs, try swapping those with the installed one. It's a longshot but perhaps you have a bad IC.
> 
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> 
> Bob



Hi Bob

Well finally I can report good and exciting news with my Sony40xBR800, I had literally given up and had actually made an appointment for a technician to repair the TV, but after reading your suggestions above and the suggestions from *rtmach*, I decided to pull out the D board again and inspect the work I had done previously. After careful review of the soldering I had done and with the emphasis you made about checking my soldering , I realized that my soldering work was done very poorly, so I used my soldering Braid and de-soldered both IC again and completely removed the solder that I had done.

I then went on Youtube and did a search on IC soldering after reviewing a few of the live videos, I realized that my soldering techniques were not done correctly and the reason the TV did not work. What I learned about proper soldering is that the best method is to place the hot iron next to the pin and the surface of the board and simultaneously place the solder to the opposite side of the hit iron, this process should be done quickly so as not to apply too much heat to the board. So the solder will attach to the board as you solder around the pin from the base up and the result is a cone shape appearance with the solder making contact with the board and the pin.


The links below will take you to Youtube where you will gain valuable lesson in soldering and de soldering

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2...eature=related 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tt23hPsjLds&NR=1 


After connecting everything back, I connected the power supply and my Sony 40xBR800 works like a brand new TV. I could not have accomplished this level of success without the help and support I received from *KLutzy, rtmach,Mark Goetz,louiselulu,blue_z, RobertF and eclipsedave* and everyone else who contributed their experience to this forum.


And for those newbies reading this thread for the first time who are experiencing 7 blinks with your TV and are now attempting to repair your TV, I would like to share with you my experience as a way of giving back to this forum for the benefit I gained in repairing my TV.


So far I purchased the following at Radio Shack

1.30Watt Soldering Gun

2.Desoldering Braid (highly recommended)

3.60/40 Rosin Core Solder

On Ebay I purchased

(2) MCZ3001DB IC + SOCKET - MCZ3001D

1 chip puller (highly recommended)


To begin the reason that the TV stops working and the reason for the 7 blinks is because the power supply has gone bad. For those of you who maybe interested to know what causes this power failure , I was told by a Sony repair technician that the MCZ 3001DB chips are part of the power supply and replacing them should fix the power supply. Apparently this is a common problem, that the power supply goes bad after several years of use and the common cure is just replacing these 2 chips.


IC6501 and IC8002 is the actual location on the D board where the MCZ3001Db chips are located


The first step is to remove the cover from the back of the TV, there are a total of 23 black screws and the cover slides out easily. If you read this entire thread from the beginning as I did, you will have noticed that many within this forum, recommends turning the TV over face down, then cutting away part of the plastic so as to get to the D board.

Well I have good news for you; you don't need to do either of the above, since turning a 300lb TV over face down can be quite dangerous. I was able to completely remove the D board and position it in the correct service position without turning the TV on its face. And without cutting away any of the plastic frame.


After you remove the back cover , you will see 2 separate boards, the D board is located to the left side assuming you are standing in the back of the TV, You will look for 2 clips that needs to be pulled up just slightly with your fingers, they are located to the extreme left and right side of the entire board, once these clips are loosened, the board will pull out easily, only pull partially so as to give you easy access to the D board as you will encounter a lot of wires that are connected to the board. Once the board is out your main focus will be on the D board and the wires that are connected to it. There are approximately 9 gold screws that connect the D board to the plastic frame which has to be removed, there are also 2 plastic clips towards the left side of the board that you only have to slightly release, there is also 2 additional smaller plastic clips, one located towards the back and another at the top of the board that you just have to release, so again 1 clip at the 12 o clock position, 1 at the 6pm position and 2 larger clips at the 9 o clock position. You will also have to unplug 3 sets of wires from the top of the board or at the 12 o clock position, 2 additional sets of wires from the D board and finally there is a wire that is connected to the A board that connects from the D board which should also be removed. DO NOT remove the large Red ANODE wire as it may contain live voltage, so be careful not to place any pressure on this wire.


The last step in the removal of the D board is 4 large black DIP connectors, they connect the D board to the A board, at first they may appear to be difficult to remove but actually they are quite easy, just use a small screw driver or your fingers and apply a small amount of pressure under the connectors on the side of the D board and the connectors will left up from the D board and hang loosely on the A board, see attached photos, you will clearly see the DIP connectors attached to the A board.


The D board will now easily separate from the plastic frame. I would now recommend that you move from the extreme back of the TV where you have completed the above steps so far and to the left side, 9 o clock or NW, this will place you directly in front of the D board, you will be able to actually lift it up and rotate it on its side exposing the service position with the under side exposed towards you. Identify the location of the 2 IC that you will be removing, they are located at position IC6501 and position IC8002.


You are now ready to begin the process of removing these 2 chips. Once your heat gun is heated to the appropriate temperature, just leave it plugged in for a few minutes until you can smell the heat. Each IC has 18 pins . Note the position of the pins and the orientation on the board, they number #1 beginning on the side where the small circle is located and finally #18 is located just to the other side of the circle. On the D board itself the numbers are listed as a guide. You are now ready to begin de- soldering. Place the tip of your Desoldering Braid directly on each pin on top of the solder and place your heat gun on top of the Braid, in just a few seconds the old solder will melt and the Braid will absorb it, continue this process with each of the other pins until you have successfully de soldered 16 pins on each IC. The reason you will only de solder 16 pins on each is because Pins #13 and #17 on the original IC are not soldered, so they have no contact with the board and they should not be soldered when you replace the new IC Be careful not to apply excessive heat to the D board as you don't want to damage the trace material especially at pin #5 where that pin is connected to the board, you will clearly see the copper trace material.


Once you are confident that you have removed all the old solder, just turn the board back over in the upright position and use your Chip Puller and gentle remove both chips. Before fitting the sockets, just carefully insert the IC into the socket, you may have to slightly bend on each side to make them insert easily, then you can remove them, the reason for doing this is that it will be easier to fit the IC to the sockets after you have soldered the sockets to the board.


Insert both sockets, again remember to orientate them in the correct position by placing the half moon end at pin #1, and use a small piece of tape to secure them on the other side so that they will not move when the solder is applied. Now we begin the final stage of the IC repair by soldering the sockets. Place your heat gun close to the board, next to each pin at the circle or base where the pin extends through the board then apply the solder to the opposite side of the heat gun, rotate this process around the base of the pin in a upward motion, you will be left with a cone shape finish that pivots toward the end of the pin. You will continue this process for the additional 16 pins with the exception of Pins #13 and #17 which you WILL NOT SOLDER as I alluded to earlier. Duplicate this process with the 2nd IC and that will complete the Soldering procedure.


Turn the board back to its upright position and you are now ready to insert the IC, remember to orientate them in the correct position, which is the half moon end of the IC should match the half moon end of the socket. Carefully insert the IC into the socket, it may take some time to fully insert them, start by inserting 1 end first then carefully pushing down. Once they are aligned properly they should easily slide into the socket, apply some pressure with your finger tip to secure tightly.

Congratulations!! You have successfully installed and repaired your TV.


Connect back all the wires, dont forget to remove the tape you used to secure the IC, secure the back cover and connect the power supply and your TV should power on successfully. You can now be proud of yourself for a job well done and for an investment of under $30.


If anyone has any additional questions or need any help with their repair, I will be more than happy to assist you. I am tremendously grateful to the above mentioned members and others for their contribution and help, I could not have repaired by Sony 40XBR800 for under $30 without their help and support.


----------



## rtmach

Congratulations on not given up and bringing the big 40 back to life! You point out a problem for people using this thread for a repair like this, you must have a proper soldering technique. The best way I found to check your work is with a magnifying glass and a very bright light. Another tip would be to take a close up pic before you start to see if you have added any solder to places that shouldn't have it, I found that out the hard way. Another tip is to use very thin solder, I was using solder I had for over 30 years and it was too thick for this job, which lead to some of my problems. And one last tip is when you use the braid cut the end at an angle , that will allow you to get it into the socket hole to get all the solder out the first time. I'll say it again , this is a pretty simple repair as long as you use the right stuff and technique, and take your time.


----------



## DoctorO

See title line--and point me in the right direction! Thanks!


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DoctorO* /forum/post/18592158
> 
> 
> See title line--and point me in the right direction! Thanks!




Hi *DoctorO*

Well you came to the right place to find a solution for you TV repair. I just checked your symptoms in the User Manual and below is what they are suggesting. More than likely the problem is that your power supply is bad and the solution to fixing that will be to replace the 2 IC chips on the D board, they are located at IC8002 and IC6501, these 2 chips are connected with your power supply and since I am assuming that your TV is now over 5 years old then they have just gone bad. If you want to be sure then I would suggest the following 2 options,

1. Have a qualified technician diagnose and confirm what the problem is, once you have that information, then

2. Just follow my instructions in post #1140 and repair it yourself


Let me know if I can be of any further help to you or if you have any additional questions.

*Diagnostic Item*

Power does not turn on

*No. of times

STANDBY /

TIMER lamp

flashes*

Does not light

*Probable Cause Location*

Power cord is not plugged in.

Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)

*Detected Symptoms*

Power does not come on.

No power is supplied to the TV.

AC Power supply is faulty.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18584579
> 
> 
> Hi Bob
> 
> Well finally I can report good and exciting news....



Man, that is fantastic!!! Kudos for doing it all on your own as well! Wasn't that a wonderful feeling when that tv started back up? Way to "Pay it Forward" as well. This thread is over 2 1/2 years old and people are still finding it VERY helpful. Nice work!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sonykv40xbr800* /forum/post/18584579
> 
> 
> Hi Bob
> 
> Well finally I can report good and exciting news with my Sony40xBR800, I had literally given up and had actually made an appointment for a technician to repair the TV, but after reading your suggestions above and the suggestions from *rtmach*, I decided to pull out the D board again and inspect the work I had done previously. After careful review of the soldering I had done and with the emphasis you made about checking my soldering , I realized that my soldering work was done very poorly, so I used my soldering Braid and de-soldered both IC again and completely removed the solder that I had done.
> 
> I then went on Youtube and did a search on IC soldering after reviewing a few of the live videos, I realized that my soldering techniques were not done correctly and the reason the TV did not work......
> 
> 
> .....*After connecting everything back, I connected the power supply and my Sony 40xBR800 works like a brand new TV.* I could not have accomplished this level of success without the help and support I received from *KLutzy, rtmach,Mark Goetz,louiselulu,blue_z, RobertF and eclipsedave* and everyone else who contributed their experience to this forum......



Congratulations on your successful repair!


And thank you for taking the time to post your repair tips and instructions. Good work.


Bob


----------



## 77 k20

MANY MANY THANKS TO ALL!!!


My Sony KV-32HS500 died about a month ago (I had sometimes 6 blinks, 7 blinks, 4 blinks). TV would not turn on. Having just replaced the water heater and a bunch of work to the cars I did not have the $$$ to fork out on a new TV. With the kids (3 and 5) I liked how "strong" the CRT TVs are for flying toys and whatnot. I didn't trust the local repair shops around here (and also still didn't have the $$$).


I read thru the first 22 pages or so and I ordered (3) Hitachi MCZ3001DB from Encompass Parts for $42.52. I replaced both on the D board at the same time. I wanted to distrub as little as possible so I put the TV down on its face and used a wire cutter to remove the plastic crossmember in just a few seconds. I used a small black sharpie to mark which legs of the ICs that were not to be soldered. I hate solder wick- so just used a solder sucker. Only 2 legs were not free- so resoldered them and then on the second try they were free.


Popped the new ICs in and reassembled. TV turned right on.


Once again- thanks everyone.


----------



## jdre

*77k20:* Congratulations! I haven't been here in a while, good to see the repair successes!


----------



## wiegel14

I've red much of what's been written on the forum about the SONY televisions and the so-called solutions for the high voltage tube power supply by replacing the PWM chip. However I never found any explanation for the so called dying' of the chip. Also striking is, it's always the high voltage power supply and NEVER the main power supply which is faulty.


I strongly believe eventually the problem will return after some time after replacing the chip.


My experience is as mentioned above. I exchanged the chip at location IC6001 with the one at location IC6802. After doing so, the TV worked fine for about 1 year. Now it needs roughly 20 kick' starts to function properly.

So my conclusion is:


No chips have died in view of the fact that I've reused the so-called dying chip at a different location. Consequently in my opinion it's useless to replace these relative expensive chips when the TV will start failing to go on within a year of doing so.


I'm convinced it has something to do with aging of some component(s)


Although this first reply sound negative, I am confident there will be a final solution at some time.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wiegel14* /forum/post/18658213
> 
> 
> I've red much of what's been written on the forum about the SONY televisions and the so-called solutions for the high voltage tube power supply by replacing the PWM chip. However I never found any explanation for the so called ‘dying’ of the chip. Also striking is, it’s always the high voltage power supply and NEVER the main power supply which is faulty.
> 
> 
> I strongly believe eventually the problem will return after some time after replacing the chip.
> 
> 
> My experience is as mentioned above. I exchanged the chip at location IC6001 with the one at location IC6802. After doing so, the TV worked fine for about 1 year. Now it needs roughly 20 ‘kick’ starts to function properly.
> 
> So my conclusion is:
> 
> 
> No chips have died in view of the fact that I’ve reused the so-called dying chip at a different location. Consequently in my opinion it’s useless to replace these relative expensive chips when the TV will start failing to go on within a year of doing so.



I'm not familiar with the PWM chip failures, but as far as replacing the other IC's you mentioned, those chips cost me like $6/each. I find that VERY cost efficient, when considering either having it serviced by a technician (who would most likely want to replace the whole D-board) or buying a new television. Of course I'm sure age and wear&tear have something to do with failures as well.


Is it me or do tv's just not last as long as they used to? I mean, when I was younger, we had a tv that was well over 15 years old and functioned just fine for several more years. I understand there are many more complex parts in these newer tv's, but still.


----------



## jdre

*wiegel14:*You may just have put the "tired" chip 8001 into easy duty, and the 6501 chip got hard duty and both are "tired". It's cost effective to fix it, still a pain to install (easier when ICs are socketed). I've been using a set repaired with the 2 chips 1.5 years so far.


----------



## joej85

I have a KV-36HS500 that of course has the startup problems. (6 blinks).


I replaced both IC's and the problem did not change. I still get 6 blinks.


I noticed that if I lower the voltage going into the set to around 100VAC (with a variac), it starts up every time and runs fine. I have verified that both IC's are working properly with an oscilloscope. (With the set powered through an isolation transformer.) As I vary the AC input voltage to the set, the IC's both vary the PWM to regulate the voltages as they should. All FETs associated with the IC's are good as well.


I am in the process of trying to track the exact signal that is shutting down the set using the schematics. It shuts down within a second after the HV comes up. I am thinking that the HV is not right causing shutdown. I measured it when the set was working properly and it measured 30.6KV which shouldn't cause a shutdown, but maybe it is exceeding 31.3kV when it first comes up....I just don't know. It is really tough tracing these signals on the board.


I verified that the +5V is good, so that isn't shutting it down. I also verified that the B+ comes up rock steady at 135V (no OVP) and also that I don't have OCP. All these signals are good when the set shuts down. This is why I am leaning toward high HV shutdown.


Both the 1200uF 250V caps are bulging at the top, so I just ordered 2 new ones to try. I checked the voltage across the caps with the scope and it appears to be well filtered, but the bulges in the cans tell me the caps aren't quite right. Hopefully, they will fix the problem.


Does anyone know if there are there any other common items that may fail on these sets that cause this type of shutdown other than the IC's?


Any other suggestions?


(The fusable resistors are good or the set wouldn't work at all...)


----------



## amibrewer

My set started with the standby light blinking 6/7 times. I did a search with my model number (40xbr800) and blink pattern and found this forum. After reading and re-reading several post on the correct procedure to replace the IC's I attempted the repair myself. I ordered the replacement parts (ebay) and installed them. I had a problem with the white wire that comes out of flyback. First it popped out of the board and then I cut it too short trying to fix it. Anyway, I got everything done and hooked everything back up like it was before I started. I plugged it up and turned it on and then it happened. I heard a loud pop and that was it. I unplugged it and took the back off to see how bad it was. Everything looked fine and the only damage was IC6501, which completely blew. I forgot to mention, I know the parts are the same but I had one of each MCZ3001D/DB. The one that blew was the MCZ3001D.

I took both chips out and decided to try again. This time the DB chip is in 6501 and I tried twice using both old chips in 8001. Now I'm getting 3 blinks and it will shut off.

What did I do wrong the first time and can I still fix it?
 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kaabee

Hello all

I have a Sony KD 36XS 955. I bought it in 2006. The TV worked perfectly fine till last night. After I came back from work, I turned on the tv and it does not turn on. No power. No blinks too.

I changed the power socket to a different one. No luck. I plugged in directly into the wall. Still no luck.


I have read other threads and everyone seems to have a blinking light. Mine does not even blink.


Can any one please help me to debug this problem? I love this tv and want to bring it back to life. Thanks in advance.


----------



## sonykv40xbr800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaabee* /forum/post/18699180
> 
> 
> Hello all
> 
> I have a Sony KD 36XS 955. I bought it in 2006. The TV worked perfectly fine till last night. After I came back from work, I turned on the tv and it does not turn on. No power. No blinks too.
> 
> I changed the power socket to a different one. No luck. I plugged in directly into the wall. Still no luck.
> 
> 
> I have read other threads and everyone seems to have a blinking light. Mine does not even blink.
> 
> 
> Can any one please help me to debug this problem? I love this tv and want to bring it back to life. Thanks in advance.



hi *Kaabee*

I just checked the Sony user manual for your specific problem.

*Diagnostic Item

No. of times

STANDBY /

TIMER lamp

flashes

Display*


Result Probable Cause Location Detected Symptoms
*Power does not turn on Does not light*

Power cord is not plugged in.

Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)

Power does not come on.

No power is supplied to the TV.

AC Power supply is faulty


----------



## jdre

*amibrewer:*Recheck your soldering and board traces for splash or shorts, one could have blown up your 6501. Check for short across Mosfets, check board trace near where you may have cut the plastic frame. Put fresh, unused MCZ3001DB in for 8001.

*kaabee:*Check that outlet is *really* working, plug in a lamp. Check cord didn't get cut, check F501 on A board.

*joej85:*Let us know how it works with the new capacitors. I had a slight bulge in one of mine, changed out as precaution. Also, can't hurt to recheck soldering.


----------



## revtw

hello all im newbe at this but willing to try to fix myself! I have the 6 blinks and unit will not power on. It clicks like it wants to but refuses to power on. For about a week I could turn it on and off about 4 or 5 times and it would power on. But last night we forgot to leave the unit on and now she refuses to power up again. I've read much about this problem and see that many have fixed their units themselves. Will someone pls verify that the parts found on this link are what I need.


Sockets on Ebay 


Also any link for service manual would be great! Thanks for any help provided.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *revtw* /forum/post/18773756
> 
> 
> hello all im newbe at this but willing to try to fix myself! I have the 6 blinks and unit will not power on. It clicks like it wants to but refuses to power on. For about a week I could turn it on and off about 4 or 5 times and it would power on. But last night we forgot to leave the unit on and now she refuses to power up again. I've read much about this problem and see that many have fixed their units themselves. Will someone pls verify that the parts found on this link are what I need.
> 
> 
> Sockets on Ebay
> 
> 
> Also any link for service manual would be great! Thanks for any help provided.



Those are the correct parts.


----------



## DawgBone

Very long, but awesome thread.... Unfortunately, I scanned every page, and haven't seen my issue...


Depending if you count the "paused" blink or not... I get 11 short blinks and one paused blink...12 blinks?


Any ways, it a Sony KDS-R60XBR1... I power the unit up and the green light flashes several times, the sound is throwing output to my RX...then about a minute or two in, the sound cuts off and I get 11-12 red blinks.... then after two rounds of 12 blinks, it gives up and shuts down with the green light flashing.... The only way to get it to stop, is to unplug it for a couple of seconds...


Any help is greatly appreciated...


----------



## DawgBone

Dang... no takers???

I guess this guy is going to the dump then...


----------



## MyTMouse

Well my Sony 36HS420 died and gave me the 7 blinking error code that I read lots of other people having. In the vast majority of caes replacing the 2 MCZ3001DB chips on the D-board fixed the problem so I went ahead and ordered 4 of them from the web along with a couple of 18-pin sockets just incase I needed to replace them again.


Well I got them replaced and lo and behold the TV still will not turn on...now I get 6 blinks instead of 7 but the result is still the same...dead TV. I have no clue what to do now. I've checked my solder connections and even tried replacing both new chips with the other new ones...along with making sure all wires/connections on the boards are good but NOTHING.


So, now I'm left with a 230lb TV that won't work, is a pain to do anything with regarding moving/throwing out, might cost $400+ or so to have a technician "fix" only to have some other problem in the near future (these TV's seem to be junk with all the problems they have).


I really hoped I'd be like a bunch of others and have a working TV but my luck is terrible I guess


----------



## darrend004

I want to attempt to fix my "6 blinking" problem but am nervous about voltage remaining in a tv after it's unplugged.


Are there suggestions to avoid this problem? Leave it unplugged for __ days?


Thanks in advance.


Darren


----------



## cjdjw

Does anyone know what the actual fix was for the 3 blinks after replacing the IC6501 & IC8002?


Thanks for any help!


----------



## ezrider53

Dave,


I just fond the same tv on the side of the road but i don't under stand how to replace the cips can you explain in more detail??


Thank you

jordan


----------



## Blessedon

How much more detail do you require?

If you start from the beginning of this thread (I know, it's a lot....), you can't miss.


----------



## nkbeachboy

I have a sony Trinitron wega and i had the 7 blinks so i replaced the both the ICs. and after a long careful time of desoldering and sodlering i plugged everything back in and tried to turn it back on and it turned on for a second and then it cut right back off but this time no blinking lights i have pretty much given up but wanted to know if you guys had any solution. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Sony_Loyal

First of all I would like to say this forum and post has been invaluable for advise and direction, very resourceful.


I have a Sony KV-34SH510 (manufactured in Nov 2003) which died a typcial death (6 or 7 blinks) about 4 weeks ago. With a very optimistic spirit I have carefully replaced the two IC's on the D board.


Unfortunately, my set did not come back on. Upon on power-up the LED flashes 3 times (while electricity is getting into the system)........then NOTHING! I can't even hear the CRT taking static charge now, like I could previous to the repair. Where should I focus now?


Absolutely any assistance offered would be termendously appreciated. I am committed to accomplishing the repair.


Thank you in advance for your assistance.


Still Hopefull,


----------



## Sony_Loyal

After a review of all the work I had completed as well as the connections taken apart, I re-dressed a few solder points and re-connected everything again and then ------ EUREKA!


Thanks to ALL that have contributed to this thread with the invaluable information. With all your help I have managed to save this Sony for some time yet.


Most appreciated.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sony_Loyal* /forum/post/18854156
> 
> 
> After a review of all the work I had completed as well as the connections taken apart, I re-dressed a few solder points and re-connected everything again and then ------ EUREKA!
> 
> 
> Thanks to ALL that have contributed to this thread with the invaluable information. With all your help I have managed to save this Sony for some time yet.
> 
> 
> Most appreciated.



Congratulations! Nice job sticking with it.


----------



## bnardinpgh

Just completed a D board repair on my KV-40XBR800. I split the job between me and a local shop. I removed the board completely after discharging the fbt. The hinge connectors were a bit of a pain but with an old cpu puller and a small screwdriver covered with a disposable eyedropper, I was able to lift them. I opened the plug that the red wire goes into on the C board and removed it. I desoldered the white wire from the C board. Once I had the D board free I took it to a local shop who had the IC's in stock and charged me $89 to install and turned it around in a day. The board was returned beautifully soldered and I installed it the next day. Crossed fingers and powered it up. Big Sony is back.


----------



## jdre

That's a good strategy, if a shop is willing. A *lot* of failed attempts at repair are because of small flaws in soldering, also watch for cut trace (if plastic frame was cut). Anybody who had the 6 blinks persist or get 3 blinks should look at the board traces.

*dawgbone:*KDS60XBR1 is a projection TV, lack of replies might be because it's not the TV set for this topic, (despite its general title.) Does it show the picture at all?


----------



## SkateZilla

I had my own thread, but seein as this one is active, I'd Post here too.


I have a Sony KV-30HS420, It was fine the other nite, I turned it off, a few hours later I goto turn it on and it clicks, sound comes on for a few seconds, picture never comes up then it shuts off in the middle of the 10-second warm up.


Prior to this I've had several occasions where the TV would shutoff on its own, but when turning back on it would flash a blink code (5 blinks one occasion, and 5 blinks a year later) and the screen would be over contrast certain colors would cause horizontal tearing across the screen etc etc. i think I posted here about it, after a day or so of being unplugged it would go away.


Blink code is 7 Blinks Pause 7 Blinks.

(or "Seven blinks - High voltage shutdown. The high voltage has exceeded 33k and the unit goes immediately into safety shutdown. Check power supply regulation and horizontal circuits. ")


Anyone knowhow to fix this?, The TV is Plugged into an APC Power Conditioning Battery Backup, I tried pluggin into a regular surge protector, and directly into the wall, same result.


I've left it unplugged for now.


Should I just order and replace the MCZ3001D chips and hope for the best?, could past problems be a sign that the MCZ3001D chips were going (when I bought this tv in 2004ish it was a display unit from sears, so it had ALOT of uptime on it already.


Links to Past Problems:

Blinks 5x - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=802260 

Blinks 5x = http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1001326


----------



## DawgBone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/18876274
> 
> *dawgbone:*KDS60XBR1 is a projection TV, lack of replies might be because it's not the TV set for this topic, (despite its general title.) Does it show the picture at all?



Doooohhh!!!

Thanks... I never looked up to see this threads path, and completely didn't realize what sub-forum I was in....


But to answer your question, no picture at all.... I don't think the bulbs ever attempt to fire up, as the screen is as black as if the power was off...


----------



## ezrider53

Hey guys,



i cant get the chips out of the board any ideas??? Please i have the tv apart and have all thr right parts!!


----------



## tomwil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ezrider53* /forum/post/18884758
> 
> 
> I cant get the chips out of the board any ideas???



Try this .


----------



## ezrider53

Hey,


Well guy i got the chips out and sodered up the back side of the board. Now the standby light blinks 3 time insted of 7! what gives?? if i cant fix it now i guess i am going to take a bat to it. I want it to work its such a nice looking tv! any thoughts?? please let me know i am losing my mind!!!


----------



## rtmach

3 blinks tends to show up after a repair that might have some bad soldering or a chip in wrong. I would recommend a magnifying glass and a bright light from behind the board to check for problems. The only time I got 3 blinks was from a short caused by too much solder.


----------



## SkateZilla

Can Anyone supply Video or Pictures for Each Step of the Repair for a KV30HS420 or Similar Set?


Im gonna Order the parts and do it later this week or next weekend.


I ordered the Parts from Radio Shack.

-30W Iron/Pencil Kit (comes with a bunch of crap, but i just wanted the Iron since mine crapped out)

-Desolder Bulb

-60/40 Solder


From Ebay the 2x IC/Socket Kit.


I just need to know how to remove the Dboard into a service-able position, Might move the TV this week and start removing the cover to take Reference Pix and Notes on Pins, I cant start pulling boards because I have kids in my apartment right now and they get into everything, lol.


----------



## undgrdjoe

Okay, about two months ago my bravia KDL40W4100 died on me. Picture was gone but the sound remained for about five seconds. After that when I turn the TV on i get no picture or sound and 14 standby flashes.


I tried searching through this thread but I never came across the 14 standby flashes. If anyone could explain what 14 flashes mean, and if there is a possible fix, I'd really appreciate the help.


----------



## tomwil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *undgrdjoe* /forum/post/18927820
> 
> 
> Okay, about two months ago my bravia KDL40W4100 died on me ... If anyone could explain what 14 flashes mean, and if there is a possible fix, I'd really appreciate the help.


 Sony KDL40W4100 Service Manual should contain the info you need.


----------



## undgrdjoe

Maybe point me in the right direction? I see mention of 1-13, but not of 14 standby flashes.


----------



## tomwil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *undgrdjoe* /forum/post/18928860
> 
> 
> Maybe point me in the right direction? I see mention of 1-13, but not of 14 standby flashes.



I haven't downloaded the manual, but apparently according to this thread it should be in the manual. "14 HFR_ERROR LCD 01"

This document says the HFR_ERROR is related to the LCD panel.


Oops - just noticed that you had posted in the wrong forum; this is the CRT forum.


You would probably have better results going to the LCD Flat Panel Displays forum , and this thread in particular .


----------



## SkateZilla

Hrmm, My Radio Shack order will be here today,


I have no Idea where my 2x Socket and Chip order is from Ebay, I ordered from Ebay and Radio shack the same day, I was never given a tracking number from either Ebay, the Seller or Paypal... So Im wondering when and how it will show up,


anyone else order the 2x Chip/socket kit from Ebay (the link provided in this thread?)


did they arrive in bubbled envolope or small box? and how long did it take to ship?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla* /forum/post/18942574
> 
> 
> Hrmm, My Radio Shack order will be here today,
> 
> 
> I have no Idea where my 2x Socket and Chip order is from Ebay, I ordered from Ebay and Radio shack the same day, I was never given a tracking number from either Ebay, the Seller or Paypal... So Im wondering when and how it will show up,
> 
> 
> anyone else order the 2x Chip/socket kit from Ebay (the link provided in this thread?)
> 
> 
> did they arrive in bubbled envolope or small box? and how long did it take to ship?



I bought from them back in oct 09, it took about 4-5 days for the shipping and they came in a small packing envelope" yellow" I had no problems, no damage and they worked and are still working.


----------



## SkateZilla

ok, I figure it would come in an envolope,


now im just trying to figure it out where it is.....


----------



## SkateZilla

got my soldering stuff and I have my plan all laid out, still waiting for my chips, going on a week,


----------



## scorpion11236

sony kv36hs510

this what i got from radio shack today :


item number

6402051 15 watt soldering iron


6402090 desoldering braid


6400005 .032 dia 2.5 oz light duty rosin-core solder


i got the ic and sockets from TSM



should i get a higher watts soldering iron?

ok the tv is in the living room and the living have carpet ?

what should i do or get so that i dont get shock


i never solder before


----------



## SkateZilla

15W should be ok.


I'd find a metal clip, solder a wire to it and use it as a "ground" clip to ground yourself so you dont kill anything on the board with E.S.D.


Im still waiting on my Chips from Ebay

( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT )


just checked and it said UP to 15 working days for USA, so Im guessing its coming from Oversea's


----------



## scorpion11236

the desoldein braid from radioshock suck

it's taking me forever to take the first chip out

i will have to go and get a vacum

i'm in brooklyn ny anyone in nyc

i bought the dual soldring iron the 15/30 radioshok brand


----------



## scorpion11236

how do you remove flux residue due to desoldering braid?

it left some of the coper wire behind

thanks in advance


----------



## SkateZilla

The First time i took out a IC from a board, I tried a braid, and it sucked, missed pins, left behind crap, overheated and burnt stuff.


since then i just spend the extra time and effort and go 1 pin at a time, heat, suck and clean off with PCB Cleaning Solution (windex works too).


wierd out of everyone thats takeno n this repair, i dont see anyone mention that they cleaned off the PCB with any solutions to get skin oils, and solder residue from the board and contacts.


----------



## scorpion11236

did the windex remove the copper wire ?

how did u used it ? did u spray on the board or piece of paper?

how about alcohol prep pad?


----------



## scorpion11236

did the windex remove the copper wire ?

how did u used it ? did u spray on the board or piece of paper?

how about alcohol prep pad?


----------



## Blessedon

I think the best way to remove the residual copper wire is to buy the desoldering tool from Radio Shack.


Resolder the area lightly

Then, desolder using the above tool. As soon as you see the solder liquefy, release the bulb.


It worked well for me and took 5 minutes to remove each chip.


----------



## scorpion11236

few pici took

the vacum desolder i bought

didnt do the job well plan to go and try to exchange it tomorrow

for the one bledson talking about


----------



## scorpion11236

pics


----------



## SkateZilla

for cleaning I use what looks like a Q-Tip but instead of cotton it has cloth/foam type material for cleaning up the printed circuits. it wont work if theres alot of excessive debris (wire splinters, cold solder deposits, etc).


hope fully the pictures are misleading, but it looks like you've started to burn the PCB already, which may cause problems.


----------



## blue_z

That looks like a nasty, damaged board.

For instance, it looks like the solder pads are gone from pins 5, 7, 8, 14 & 15 of IC8501.

Is the "copper wire" you're complaining about the copper trace of the PCB???


----------



## SkateZilla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18970511
> 
> 
> That looks like a nasty, damaged board.
> 
> For instance, it looks like the solder pads are gone from pins 5, 7, 8, 14 & 15 of IC8501.
> 
> Is the "copper wire" you're complaining about the copper trace of the PCB???



14, 15, and 16 looks like its covered a mix of old solder, copper wire spinters, and other crap.


----------



## scorpion11236




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18970511
> 
> 
> That looks like a nasty, damaged board.
> 
> For instance, it looks like the solder pads are gone from pins 5, 7, 8, 14 & 15 of IC8501.
> 
> Is the "copper wire" you're complaining about the copper trace of the PCB???



it's from the desoldering braid i was using which was a pain


what tv out there that have a better picture than this tv and

pic in pic? does other tv have the feauture that let you zoom in and out like the

36hs510 on pic in pic


thanks for the help


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scorpion11236* /forum/post/18973800
> 
> 
> it's from the desoldering braid i was using which was a pain
> 
> 
> what tv out there that have a better picture than this tv and
> 
> pic in pic? does other tv have the feauture that let you zoom in and out like the
> 
> 36hs510 on pic in pic
> 
> 
> thanks for the help



I hope you didn't damage that "D" Board, as it really looks like you over-heated the pad terminal area.


Yeah, I totally agree. Sony had developed the very best implementation of P&P, and it's been my favorite feature on my 40XBR.


----------



## scorpion11236




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/18973929
> 
> 
> I hope you didn't damage that "D" Board, as it really looks like you over-heated the pad terminal area.
> 
> 
> Yeah, I totally agree. Sony had developed the very best implementation of P&P, and it's been my favorite feature on my 40XBR.



I bought a new desolder that have a pump from radioshack

i plan to used it on friday maybe it will remove the remaining solder

that wick mess me up

maybe if i put the new chip in it. it might still work i hope

if it doesnt time for a new tv

sony to expensive for me to get a new tv but i love that p&p on sony


----------



## scorpion11236

i replace the chip now i'm getting the 3 blink code

when i turn on the tv

there's a couple of pics

any help would be appreciate


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scorpion11236* /forum/post/18983967
> 
> 
> i replace the chip now i'm getting the 3 blink code
> 
> when i turn on the tv
> 
> there's a couple of pics
> 
> any help would be appreciate



3 blinks can mean a short , sometimes from soldering incorrectly. I had 3 blinks one time and took it all apart, cleaned it up and re-soldered and it worked. It only takes a small speck in the wrong place to get 3 blinks. Read this *entire thread* from the start and you will see other pics of the repair that you can compare to yours, it might show where you have a short or other issues. also try buying a practice board at radio shack to get your soldering skills a little better, use your old chips and solder and remove them till you get the hang of it. Some here have done it on the first try while others like me have made some mistakes. I've done 4 of these sets and only 2 worked the first time. I saw your pics and even blurry I can see the soldering could be the issue, you may have damaged the board, if so even that might be fixable. As a last resort you can order a new board from sony for about $200 or you can look on craigslist for another set. I found another 40xbr800 for $200 with the stand and remote that was in mint condition, it still had the original sony batteries







On my first 40xbr800 I bought for a $100, it had 6 blinks to start , after the first repair it would cut off in the vivid setting or a white scene, I found out it was a trace or speck from when I removed the chips using a solder sucker. That repair caused one of the chips to fail so I did another repair and then I got 3 blinks and was ready to give up. I did a third repair but I used the wick and a small screwdriver to remove all specks and traces of solder. The third repair worked and it works perfect. When you use the wick, put a little solder on the end then put it next to a pin and slide your soldering iron up the wick , doing that will remove all the solder and not spread it around. You can find a bunch of tips on YouTube that will really help. If you like these sets as much as me keep looking for others, there about 7-8 years old now so people will sell them cheap , I look all the time to find ones for parts.


----------



## Blessedon

Definitely a TV worth keeping!

Wise words from *rtmach*; to try a re-solder or try to pick up a refurb board.

We might be able to help more with better photos. Any way you can improve with the camera you have, or borrow one to take good macros?


----------



## rtmach

some more tips, when your wick has about 1/4 inch or so of solder on it, cut it off and repeat. It's also easier on these chips to cut the wick at an angle to get down into the holes. A bright light makes it easier to get a good pic, and a magnifying glass will show any small traces and specks. I think somewhere in this thread is some pics of the bottom of the board before a repair, you can compare to make sure you have all the solder in the right places.


----------



## thich

i want to thank each one of you for giving me the info and confidence needed to turn my 34XBR910 into a working TV again. i have very little, to no experience soldering on boards, so i hope this will encourage more to take on the task themselves.


like so many of the previous posters i had the 6-7 blinking code. after reading this thread i ordered a few mcz3001db IC chips, and got ready. it was pretty much as it was described; remove the back panel, unclip the board, unscrew the board, disconnect all the wires EXCEPT THE BIG RED ONE, desolder the ships, solder the new chips, put it all back together.


here are the before and after pics. i had started to desolder before i remembered to take pics.








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## scorpion11236

there my pic i'm getting 3 blink


----------



## scorpion11236




----------



## SkateZilla

Well, I just got my Chips today in the mail (Finally, has some Asian/Chinese Writing all over it)


anyway, Scorpion, by looking at the pics, you have SEVERAL pin joints that look like they are touching each other, causing shorts.


----------



## scorpion11236

can you specify which one

thanks


----------



## SkateZilla

Looks like IC8002 maybe your problem.


On IC8002, Pins 1-3 All Look too close, Pins 4 and 5 look close, and Pins 6,7,8 and 9 are close, 10-12 look close, 14-16 look ok,


ALso it looks like the leads to the component between the sets of leads is severed, look at the Pics in the Post above yours.


----------



## scorpion11236

thanks for the help will wprk on it now


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scorpion11236* /forum/post/18986331
> 
> 
> can you specify which one



Actually, all of the pins look like there is too much solder on them.

The joint should look like a little volcano, with concave sides, e.g. Mt. Fuji.

The solder joint should not look like an upside-down bowl or hemisphere; that is a bad solder joint and would not pass a QA inspection.


Regards


----------



## scorpion11236

how do i fix the lead


----------



## scorpion11236

i did fix all of it all look like volcano

nowow


----------



## SkateZilla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/18986497
> 
> 
> Actually, all of the pins look like there is too much solder on them.
> 
> The joint should look like a little volcano, with concave sides, e.g. Mt. Fuji.
> 
> The solder joint should not look like an upside-down bowl or hemisphere; that is a bad solder joint and would not pass a QA inspection.
> 
> 
> Regards



yeah, forgot to mention some of them look like cold solder joints.


I got my chips finally from China, so now i just gotta set aside time to do everything.


----------



## scorpion11236

i did all over and now they look like volcano still getting

3 blink like will post pic of the new solder i did in a few


----------



## scorpion11236




----------



## scorpion11236

what would happen if you connect all 18 pin


----------



## rtmach

This might work, click on it to open. the area in red looks like some traces.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scorpion11236* /forum/post/18987059
> 
> 
> what would happen if you connect all 18 pin



You can't, there's no place to solder those extra pins too.


----------



## scorpion11236

can you take a look at this also rtmach

i didnt work on the one you rectangle the problem yet probably tomorrow


----------



## scorpion11236

i did this soldering clean up earlier today


----------



## Blessedon

Posters,

First of all could we please size our pics so they don't run off the page. 800x600


Pin 2 and 3, and 4 and 5 look like they are touching....


----------



## scorpion11236

hwo do you remove the trace ?

on which chip


----------



## Blessedon

Sorry. On 8002


----------



## rtmach

I use a small dull flat screwdriver and *lightly* scrape at the traces and specks. you can't use a soldering iron or you will do even more damage. it looks like you have some damage around the pin holes on the board but I don't know if that will effect it, maybe another member would know for sure. compare your board to the pics from *thich's* before and after, and try to remove as much solder and traces as you can before trying again. when I had a bad repair that's what I did but I didn't have all the scrapes and scratches like yours so it might not matter at this point.


----------



## JabbaTheNut

I have the same problem like some of you, 7 blinks and no picture.

I have one question for you: what is a differance between D-BOARD, MCZ3001DB chip and IC6501 or IC8002. Iwould like to know what is going on with my old TV before I will talk to a technician. If someone know a propable cost of this repair I will greatly appreciated. I live in Port Saint Lucie, FL. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

P.S. Sorry if I put it incorrectly.


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JabbaTheNut* /forum/post/18989345
> 
> 
> I have the same problem like some of you, 7 blinks and no picture.
> 
> I have one question for you: what is a differance between D-BOARD, MCZ3001DB chip and IC6501 or IC8002. Iwould like to know what is going on with my old TV before I will talk to a technician. If someone know a propable cost of this repair I will greatly appreciated. I live in Port Saint Lucie, FL. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
> 
> P.S. Sorry if I put it incorrectly.



The 2 chips are the same. If you would please read from the beginning of this thread to, oh....about page 14, all of your questions, including the ones you will be asking, will be answered. Should take about an hour.


----------



## SkateZilla

Ok I did the Repair, Took about 1.5 hours. To a Sony KV-30HS 420,


Removed the 20 something screws to the back of the TV, slid the Back cover off,


identified the D-Board, Removed the 8 Screws mounting it to the frame, popped the Black bridges going from the D-Board to the other (Top Of Pic 1), and disconnected all the power Leads.


rotated he board over, took solder iron and heated up each lead and used solder sucker to suck off heated solder made sure pin was loose before moving to the next. Then removed the IC chip and moved to the 2nd one and repeated, inserted IC 18 pin Socket and soldered all the pins that required solder and skipped the ones that werent, being careful not to use too much solder, lil bits at a time, making sure each was a nice shiney joint. Inserted Chips into sockets, put the board back into the Frame, clipped into place, re-clamped the bridges, reconnected power cables, and put the back cover on. PLugged in and powered up, cycled power a few times to make sure it was working, image is actually clearer than it was before, didnt really have free hand to take Pix.


----------



## Blessedon

Outstanding work SkateZilla. Another top-quality CRT save from the landfill!


----------



## scorpion11236

congrats skatezilla

i did whhat i was yld to do still getting the 3 blink

i even replace one of the new chip with one of the old chip still didnt work

now i'm trying to see if i can get a dboard and repalce it

how hard is it to replace the entire Dboard? specially the fbt wire are the solder in

to other board


----------



## rtmach

After all your troubles so far I would highly recommend that you have the board installed by a pro. You need a special tool for removing the fly back lead to the tube. I had considered doing that job but decided against it, mainly because the board is $200 or so and very easy to screw it up. If you keep looking on Craigslist you might find another 510 or 500 very cheap, or even better an xbr36 or xbr40. You can get one for less than you would pay for a board and installation, plus there is still the possibility you did more damage to your set and a new board might not fix it. Until you find one, keep trying to fix the 510, maybe get a couple new chips and if that doesn't fix it you'll have them for another sony in the future, I have have 5 different models of sony's and they all have the same chips. I'm pretty sure 3 blinks is either a short or an open circuit *" cold solder joint or a scratch/trace across a circuit path"*, maybe another member know's for sure.


----------



## scorpion11236




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/18995780
> 
> 
> After all your troubles so far I would highly recommend that you have the board installed by a pro. You need a special tool for removing the fly back lead to the tube. I had considered doing that job but decided against it, mainly because the board is $200 or so and very easy to screw it up. If you keep looking on Craigslist you might find another 510 or 500 very cheap, or even better an xbr36 or xbr40. You can get one for less than you would pay for a board and installation, plus there is still the possibility you did more damage to your set and a new board might not fix it. Until you find one, keep trying to fix the 510, maybe get a couple new chips and if that doesn't fix it you'll have them for another sony in the future, I have have 5 different models of sony's and they all have the same chips. I'm pretty sure 3 blinks is either a short or an open circuit *" cold solder joint or a scratch/trace across a circuit path"*, maybe another member know's for sure.



i call sony talking about sending the board t in for service repair for

$125 and if they cant fix it they wont charge me. also, to check if the board is crack or corrosion. I thought the 510 was way better than the xbr36 and xr40.

question what new tv out there is great for gaming ? i was going to wait for the price of the Panasonic G25 to go down


going to buy two new chip on ebay hope it's the chip


----------



## rtmach

That would be a good deal for the board, but I wouldn't disconnect the red wire from the FB. Somewhere in this forum is a link to download the service manual, get that to help for the board removal. I have both the 36" 510 and a couple xbr40's and there is some difference's , the xbr 's have more option's to fine tune the picture, and a little better color, other than that pretty close .


----------



## scorpion11236

i order a new chip

i install it sill getting the 3 blink then turn off


----------



## SkateZilla

3 blinks, pause, 3 blinks, etc. means "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP)" and the probable cause location listed is "IC6505 is faulty (D board)".


I think you damaged the D-board, might want to look into finding a replacement board.


----------



## kiwi32

My old sony crt is sadly still going to the landfill.It works,but hd is too tempting


----------



## scorpion11236

kiwi what version sony you have

if you're going to throw it away i might as well give me the D board


yeah sake i'm looking fora replacement

if i cant find one i will have to buy a lg lcd hdtv on a budget cant spent 2k or more on a tv

it's a recession out here


----------



## sajvk

I bought a 2nd hand sony KV32HS510 few months before. It was working perfectly for few days. Suddenly i noticed that when starting up its going to stand by with the 6 blinks/7 blinks. After few more days it stopped coming back from stand by. Un plugging for few hrs worked, then that also started failing. I really liked the clarity and i didnt want to move it to trash.


I googled and found this forum. i went thru each and every page in this. I placed most of the order in ebay


Gloves - 1 - One dollar shop

cutter - 1 - One dollar shop

tourch - 1 - One dollar shop

nose plier - $5 - Frys


solder and iron - $7 - Ebay

desoldering pump - $4 - Ebay

desoldering wick - $3 - Ebay

IC MCZ3001DB + socket - $10 - Ebay


My repair Experience:


1. I turned TV around on the cabinet and removed all screws indicated by arrow. Also removed additional screws attached to AV inputs and outputs on back of TV.Removed back cover. Unplugged all wires attached to the D board. I didnt remove the wires from flyback transformer


2. Decided to removed the D board, so removed eight screws; two plastic hold downs and lifted four connections that connected the D-board to the A-board.


3. I decided to replace both the IC6501 and IC8002. I used sockets because I was scared i will damage the IC while soldering back.


4. From bottom of D-board/IC touch tip of soldering iron to solder to be removed. I used a desoldering wick to remove the solder


5. Soldered back with the socket, Put the new ICs in place and pressed it in


6. Replaced back the board and connected all the wires back


7. Turned on and same 6 blinks/ 7blinks


8. Didnt give up, again took the D board out and found that while pressing the iC back in, the connection went loose on the D board, One socket leg was not touching the board which might have caused the issue. I know not a perfect soldering, my soldering iron/ solder was not good, cheap item from ebay. I would suggest buy a better one from frys or radio shack


9. Resoldered everything one more time and connected everything back and turned on again


10. Success , it started working.


I am very happy that i was able to successfully repair my TV. Thank you everyone for all the valuable suggestion which helped me repair it.


----------



## tomwil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajvk* /forum/post/19021252
> 
> 
> 8. Didn't give up ... 10. Success , it started working.



I love happy endings like this. I admire your resolve not to give up until you got it solved!


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajvk* /forum/post/19021252
> 
> 
> I bought a 2nd hand sony KV32HS510 few months before. It was working perfectly for few days. Suddenly i noticed that when starting up its going to stand by with the 6 blinks/7 blinks. After few more days it stopped coming back from stand by. Un plugging for few hrs worked, then that also started failing. I really liked the clarity and i didnt want to move it to trash.......
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Turned on and same 6 blinks/ 7blinks
> 
> 
> 8. Didnt give up, again took the D board out and found that while pressing the iC back in, the connection went loose on the D board, One socket leg was not touching the board which might have caused the issue. I know not a perfect soldering, my soldering iron/ solder was not good, cheap item from ebay. I would suggest buy a better one from frys or radio shack
> 
> 
> 9. Resoldered everything one more time and connected everything back and turned on again
> 
> *10. Success , it started working.*
> 
> 
> I am very happy that i was able to successfully repair my TV. Thank you everyone for all the valuable suggestion which helped me repair it.



Congratulations on your successful repair! Nice job sticking with it!


Bob


----------



## rtmach

_I googled and found this forum. i went thru each and every page in this.
_

I think this was the most important thing *sajvk* did first. Anybody trying this repair should read it also and have some basic understanding of soldering. Great job and Great post *sajvk*


----------



## jriofrio

Hello to everyone...

I have been following this tread for a couple days and reading the complete success, failures and temporarily successes...


I went to the http://tristatemodule.com/ website and in search i pasted the part# MCZ3001DB and the site came with the IC and 2 more components as the result... the other 2 components are 1200UF250V Electrolytic Capacitor, 105 degree, the temperature in Celsius, and 120293361 .1OHM1/2W Sony Fusible Resistor...


MY question is, do the people in Tristate Module are aware of the problem and are recommending replacing the other 2 components too?


IF So, does anybody has done so, or anybody does recommended (specially because of the temporally success replacing just the IC alone)... if someone has done so, could share the experience and the location of those extra components to be replace!!! Please... some pic will be great to located them..


I thank you all for any advice and/or recommendation to my question


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jriofrio* /forum/post/19078156
> 
> 
> Hello to everyone...
> 
> I have been following this tread for a couple days and reading the complete success, failures and temporarily successes...
> 
> 
> I went to the http://tristatemodule.com/ website and in search i pasted the part# MCZ3001DB and the site came with the IC and 2 more components as the result... the other 2 components are 1200UF250V Electrolytic Capacitor, 105 degree, the temperature in Celsius, and 120293361 .1OHM1/2W Sony Fusible Resistor...
> 
> 
> MY question is, do the people in Tristate Module are aware of the problem and are recommending replacing the other 2 components too?
> 
> 
> IF So, does anybody has done so, or anybody does recommended (specially because of the temporally success replacing just the IC alone)... if someone has done so, could share the experience and the location of those extra components to be replace!!! Please... some pic will be great to located them..
> 
> 
> I thank you all for any advice and/or recommendation to my question




I actually haven't seen a single report where a power up problem was corrected with those two additional components. I'm not suggesting that they can't be the problem, only that the probability appears to be very low. On the other hand, I've seen many successful and long lasting repairs that have only involve the replacement of one or more of the MCZ3001D ICs.


And my personal experience with Tri-State is that they tend to be cautious. Before I fixed my KV-35XBR400 I exchanged a number of emails with them and they suggested that I send in multiple boards to be sure that they could find the problem.


So personally, I would just replace the ICs and only consider the other components if that doesn't work.


Bob


----------



## jriofrio

Hope it is just the IC....


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jriofrio* /forum/post/19081118
> 
> 
> Hope it is just the IC....



Replace both ICs if you are having only the 6/7 blink problem, and it will very likely restore your unit.


----------



## jriofrio

Hello everyone..

I did the replacement of the IC8002 with a socket...

I wanted to wait for a couple days before posting, just in case it did not work.

Well, so far so good, it has been working well.

Just a little something i notice before i change the IC , at the left side edge bottom part of the TV, was a kind of colors bleeding, most of the time isn't noticeable (because of the continue change of scenery and colors).

Even after the replacement, still i can catch the bleeding sometimes...


IS it anything i should be worry or check or do something about?


Thank you all for your comments.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jriofrio* /forum/post/19093610
> 
> 
> ....Just a little something i notice before i change the IC , at the left side edge bottom part of the TV, was a kind of colors bleeding, most of the time isn't noticeable (because of the continue change of scenery and colors).
> 
> Even after the replacement, still i can catch the bleeding sometimes...
> 
> 
> IS it anything i should be worry or check or do something about?
> 
> 
> Thank you all for your comments.



This could be a color purity issue, usually associated with the close proximity of an external magnetic field from an electronic component or speaker. Or it could be a misconvergence of the red, blue, green guns in that area.


Though you may not have access to these patterns, you might find something on a dvd that might work. Some dvds have thx patterns built in. If you view fixed images of the primary colors, a color purity problem would exhibit a color anomaly in that area. If you view a crosshatch white on black test pattern, a misconvergence would be detectable as the white lines separating into the primary colors.


Neither issue will harm your tv but it may be enough of a visual problem to warrant an attempt at fixing it.


----------



## rtmach

Almost all Sony's have color issues at the edges, most of the time close to the demagnetization coil. I use magnets to correct this problem and they work well. the tube has a metal frame around it but sometimes I need to tape them to the tube. The best way to get it right is to make sure the set is in the spot you will use it and then try putting them in place and adjusting. Sometimes it only will take one. if you don't have a way to freeze a picture you can disconnect the rf input and get the snowy picture, you will see all the color distortion there. I use Neodymium's of different sizes to fix my sets. I also will go into the service menu and make some adjustment there, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you really know what your doing. Once you get the picture right you can use some aluminum duct tape to secure them because when that coil demagnetizes the tube it will sometimes move the magnets. The other option is that once you move the set back to where it was and a couple times off turning it on and off it may clear up, replacing those chips didn't cause the color blotch but moving the set could have.


----------



## jriofrio

I appreciate very much for your info/comments...

The color bleeding is not bad at all, watching TV, i can see cause i know it is there, but most of the time (i will said 98%) i cannot see it.. because of the fast moving motion.


If there is no problem, i will leave it alone. I just hope the area will not grow larger, right now it is unnoticeable. I only did catch it when I was playing Halo and left it the screen froze for a moment to get a drink...


Thanks again very much for the input.

Keep up this great site alive, it saves us a lot of time, trouble, money and waste.


Cheers mates ....


----------



## rsteckler

Hi All


A month or two ago I did the 2 chip replacement with sockets on my sony KV-32HS500 following the 7 blinking lights of death. I also did the 2 caps and fused resistors that the parts supplier recommended. It was my first attempt to work on a circuit board, and I was quite pleased when it worked the first time. A few days ago I started getting the 3 blinks and standby problem. I was able to go on/off a few times to get it on, but it got progressively more difficult, until today it won't turn on. I went through the first 20 pages of this thread and could not find anyone else had this exact problem. A few people had the 3 blinks immediately after the replacement, but not with a delay. Anyone have any ideas?


Rich


----------



## rtmach

My experience with 3 blinks makes me think it's a short , of course I don't know for sure. If you saved the parts from the board that you replaced other than the chips, you can try putting those back in. I think only 1 or 2 others have done what you did by replacing those extra's. It could be that those other parts are not compatible and not as good as the originals.


----------



## rsteckler

thanks for the reply. that makes sense to me if the problem occurs right away, but i don't understand how it could slowly develop a short after so long.


----------



## rtmach

I looked at the service manual for 3 blinks and it says faulty D board, so it still could be the new parts just gave out. It also says in the service manual ,

"*Look for unauthorized replacement parts, particularly transistors,

that were installed during a previous repair. Point them out to the

customer and recommend their replacement*"

I think I would start there if you have them , if not replace them again and see what happens. You might be able to get the originals from sony' parts website or 1-800-488-SONY (7669)


----------



## dacronic

6 and 7 blinking lights, unplugged it then it turns on but less and less often, same as everyone.


Just ordered 2 MCZ3001DB with sockets from a Wisconsin seller's eBay link.


I really appreciate the incredible amount and mostly the quality of the replies on this thread. Until I ran into this post, I was considering a 50" plasma. It will have to wait.


----------



## bikenski

After reading through this entire thread, and all the reports of success, I was quite confident that replacing a couple of ICs would resolve the "6/7 blink" issue that suddenly began to plague my trusty KV40-XBR800.


Not confident in my soldering skills, I hired a pro to come out and tackle the repair. After he soldered in sockets and replaced the ICs, the symptoms remained exactly the same - power on the set, hear the degaussing mechanism, then either 6 or 7 blinks with no picture. Keep hitting the power button over and over again, and eventually the set comes on with a perfectly brilliant HD picture with no evidence of a problem whatsoever. Then, several seconds to several minutes later, the set shuts itself down and displays the same annoying 6 or 7 blinks.


The tech called into Sony, and they suggested replacing a bunch of capacitors (C6510, 8027, 6532, and 6837.) The tech ordered the parts and came out today and replaced all of them. Still no change - exact same symptoms. He tried swapping out the ICs with all combinations of old and new, but still no joy. Another call to Sony and some voltage readings at different places in the set led to the conclusion that perhaps it's actually the "B" board that's bad, but no guarantees.


Unfortunately I can't pour any more time or money into this fine relic, so I'll have to bit adieu to the excellent black levels and reference quality video of a CRT, and take the leap into the 21st century. Any suggestions on a modern day sub-$2,000 set that can even come close to replicating the picture quality of the big old Sony? Probably looking for something in the 50" - 55" range. Thickness is not a concern (obviously,) and I don't care about Internet connectivity or any other gimmicks. Just want a high quality display with excellent black levels, wide viewing angle, and tolerant of high ambient light (large south-facing windows in the room.)


----------



## rtmach

The service manual does say 6 blinks could be in the b board also. The only set that I've seen in someones house that looked close to the xbr800's as far as black level and screen angle viewing was one my father in law had bought last year, it was an led edge lit model, that was the only time I thought about replacing any of mine. here's a link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f=ord_cart_shr the led's seem to be getting better and cheaper.


----------



## rtmach

Here's a link for service manuals, for the 40xbr800 you can download the 36xbr800, it has all the similar models. They have info that may help you decide if it's worth keeping. please donate if you can. http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video


----------



## jassiji

Recently purchased a 2004 manufactured 34xs955.


I have TV hooked to an OTA Antenna. I turn the TV on & no picture.


I turn the TV off & on again & the picture appears & everything works normal.


So, I have to turn the TV on twice in order for the broadcast TV come in.


Can anyone explain why si this happening?


----------



## SI_Mark

Gotta give a shout out to all the people on this thread who helped me to make a successful repair of my 40XBR800. I replaced both MCZ3001D's (with DBs) after disconnecting the D board from everything but the anode. While trying to fit one of the ICs into a socket, I accidentally broke off pin 9 and got very annoyed with myself since I had to wait nearly a week for the chips to arrive. I decided to try to solder the ICs directly onto the board anyway, with extra solder in that particular gap. After reconnecting everything and turning the TV on, I was pleased to be jolted by the sound of static at maximum volume. I'm watching The Beast as I type this.


I would add the following tips for newbies like me:


1) Removing the back cover takes a bit of force. Putting it back on is much easier from the bottom first.


2) Solder opposite diagonal pins first so that you don't have to worry about the chip moving.


3) Don't break the IC pins if you are going to put them into sockets!


4) I used a manual desoldering pump, cleaning it thoroughly after each use. This worked so well for me that the second chip fell out by itself.


5) The connectors to the A board are removed by popping the entire D board side of the connector out. I initially thought I had to remove them one by one, but I soon realized that I'd be destroying the connector by doing that.


6) There is a hard-to-see screw on the tube side of the D board.


7) Don't have a heart attack when you first turn on the TV. The default setting seems to be maximum volume.


8) This repair is really not that bad! I had some previous soldering experience, so I mainly practiced desoldering along with a little soldering on some old boards.


Thanks again to all those who posted helpful tips!


----------



## BensonInABox

I don't know what I would have done without this thread. All the information here has been so helpful. My brother was given a KV32HS600, wouldn't you know it, 6-7 blinks within a week of use. It's really a nice TV. So nice, in fact, I convinced my bro to let me put my technical skills to the test to repair it. I'm a Biomedical Equipment Technologist by trade, so I figured with the right advice I could enact repairs.


Insofar I have removed both of the likely culprits. I'm awaiting the replacement IC's with sockets in the mail. Procedurally, it was actually a lot easier then I had been expecting. I'll post an update when I get the new parts installed. For now, here's how I did it.


Tools used:

15W Radioshack soldering iron

de-soldering wick also from the Shack

#2 Philips head screwdriver



1. Remove the chassis screws (I counted 10 in all)


2. Carefully separate the chassis from the front bezel


3. Lift carefully. Be sure to watch for wires strapped within the case, as well as the power cord


4a. If, like me, you elected to service the TV on it's face, you may be confronted with whether or not to clip part of the plastic board mount to access IC6501. I did so. Just be very careful no to damage any underlying components and traces.


4b. If, however, you have any aversion to cutting things up inside the TV, label and remove the connectors to the D board. May not be necessary to label, as the connectors are practically all match fit to one another on this model. *THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE WIRING FROM THE FBT.* Remove all the screws holding the board in place, lift carefully (careful with the tabs on the board mount) and turn it into the service position, which allows easy access to the components on both sides.


5. My iron is a simple 15 watt Radioshack job. It performed admirably in this case. I recommend using the de-soldering wick to de-solder these troublesome circuits. With the wick, I had both ICs out in about 10 minutes. The trick is to be as brief as you can with the iron to avoid damaging the traces.


6. Also, and this goes without saying, be careful with that iron! There are a metric f--- ton of things you could screw up with an errant poke of a hot piece of metal.



So, insofar I have the TV ready for when those ICs arrive. I'll update to let you know how it turns out.


----------



## cenatix

Great stuff guys!


I replaced both IC8002 and IC6501 and it revived my 32" Sony that I got for free.


Also, beware of the cheap knock-offs of the MCZ3001db/MCZ3001d because the first set I bought from a seller on eBay, immediately shorted and caused more damage than I was originally faced with. It appears they were coming from China because there were Chinese sellers selling the same ones.


For anyone that needs a good source for mcz3001db, I got them on ebay from seller Coreweave (search for item number 220499156868)


----------



## By-Tor

Well crud, it looks like I toasted my 36XBR400's D-Board while desoldering IC8002. I desoldered from the bottom, but when I GENTLY lifted the chip, the trace on Pins 5 and 7 lifted on the chip side of the board. I tried to replace the trace with a direct wire between the pins and their corrosponding capacitor, but It appears that I was not sucessful. Now that the traces are shot, I'm guessing I should just call it a day and send my $2K TV to XBR heaven...


It really stinks that a cheap little IC could destroy such a nice TV. It's equally bad that I made the situation even worse.


Nobody has a refurb D-board for sale, do they?


----------



## BensonInABox

Success!!!


Here is the promised update. I soldered the new IC's in, including sockets. Plugged it in and it fired right up! The look on my brothers face was priceless.


Thanks, guys. I never would have done it without the advice I found here. I (or should I say my bro) owe you all a steak dinner with the money saved on this repair.


----------



## BensonInABox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor* /forum/post/19197505
> 
> 
> It really stinks that a cheap little IC could destroy such a nice TV. It's equally bad that I made the situation even worse.



Don't feel bad about that. It happens to the best of us. I once messed up piece of medical equipment worth 8 times one of these late model large flat things people are calling TV's these days. What can I say, I was young and stupid.


(BTW it was a ceiling mounted surgical spotlight I messed up. Just before anyone asks.)


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor* /forum/post/19197505
> 
> 
> Well crud, it looks like I toasted my 36XBR400's D-Board while desoldering IC8002. I desoldered from the bottom, but when I GENTLY lifted the chip, the trace on Pins 5 and 7 lifted on the chip side of the board. I tried to replace the trace with a direct wire between the pins and their corrosponding capacitor, but It appears that I was not sucessful. Now that the traces are shot, I'm guessing I should just call it a day and send my $2K TV to XBR heaven...
> 
> 
> It really stinks that a cheap little IC could destroy such a nice TV. It's equally bad that I made the situation even worse.
> 
> 
> Nobody has a refurb D-board for sale, do they?



Try to find a sony that uses the same board on craigs list, I was looking for a donor TV for my 40xbr800 and found another 40xbr800 in mint condition with stand for $200, less than the cost of a board. It was in better shape and it worked great. Now I have 2 working 40's.









people will sell them cheap working or even cheaper if not. here is some of the models with the same board for yours,


KV-32XBR400


KV-36XBR400


KV-38DRC1


kv-38DRC1C


KV-36XBR400H


----------



## 34xbr800kv

Ok, I have a KV-34XBR800 and it does not turn on. It makes a popping sound and does nothing, no blinks. * Correction* I did notice it blinking very faintly for 7 times. I took off the cover and it is DUSTY!!! It looks like I have to remove a couple circuits from what I have read? Could someone please post a link to the parts needed and a picture of the components to remove? Thanks, I got this for free and am looking forward to proving my wife wrong that I can fix it, lol.


----------



## Blessedon

You can fix it, if it's fixable. But to do so, you will need to spend an hour reading here from the beginning of this thread to...about page 14, or so.

It's good reading, really!


----------



## 34xbr800kv

Thanks, I will spend some time reading and learning.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *34xbr800kv* /forum/post/19241913
> 
> 
> Ok, I have a KV-34XBR800 and it does not turn on. It makes a popping sound and does nothing, no blinks. * Correction* I did notice it blinking very faintly for 7 times. I took off the cover and it is DUSTY!!! It looks like I have to remove a couple circuits from what I have read? Could someone please post a link to the parts needed and a picture of the components to remove? Thanks, I got this for free and am looking forward to proving my wife wrong that I can fix it, lol.



Popping sounds most often indicate high voltage arcing. Examine areas around the high voltage leads and look for indications of soot or a black line between the leads and ground, especially around the anode cap. If you find any, clean it well and try to power up.


----------



## 34xbr800kv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/19242938
> 
> 
> Popping sounds most often indicate high voltage arcing. Examine areas around the high voltage leads and look for indications of soot or a black line between the leads and ground, especially around the anode cap. If you find any, clean it well and try to power up.



Thanks, I will check it out. Can someone direct me to a link that i can order the necessary chips from?


----------



## 34xbr800kv

THere is no arcing that I can see. I have the TV on its face (kv-34xbr800) and removed the plastic support beam that covers one of the chips. I found it very simple with a pair of hand snips to very carefully cut it out. I am ready to desolder the chips and pop in new ones. Just need to know where to order the new ones from...


Thanks all


----------



## Blessedon

 Here. And don't worry that your exact Sony model isn't listed in Tristate's list of applicable TVs; it is the right chip.

They're cheap, ' might want to keep a couple of spares on hand.


----------



## 34xbr800kv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/19243781
> 
> Here. And don't worry that your exact Sony model isn't listed in Tristate's list of applicable TVs; it is the right chip.
> 
> They're cheap, ' might want to keep a couple of spares on hand.



Should I also get sockets for the chip? is that worth it? Thanks for directing me to a good source. Are the ones on E-bay any good? Thanks again.


----------



## 34xbr800kv

I think I am going to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-GENUINE-SON...#ht_3093wt_909 


any objection as to not buy these?


----------



## Blessedon

I would stay away from the ebay chips. It's not that they are bad, it's that they *can* be of lesser quality, and some users have reported failures, albeit less than one per cent.


As for sockets; if you are a experienced solderer; you don't need them. If you are not then you do.


----------



## 34xbr800kv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/19244681
> 
> 
> I would stay away from the ebay chips. It's not that they are bad, it's that they *can* be of lesser quality, and some users have reported failures, albeit less than one per cent.
> 
> 
> As for sockets; if you are a experienced solderer; you don't need them. If you are not then you do.



Thanks for the input, I would say it is worth it to pay 5 dollars more for parts that work vs. parts that may work. I am going to order two of the chips and sockets from tri and go forward with hopefully a successful repair. I am going to pick up a Desolder pump at Radio Shack as well.


----------



## sincity808

Fixed my blinking lights, TV worked for a while but now, the memory stick LED is on and will not shut off. I turn on the TV, picture tube light is on, but no picture or sound, when I use the remote control and press the memory stick button, the TV sound comes on then shuts off, and the memory stick LED light illuminates. I think it has something to do with switching circuit that is somehow not switching to the TV mode? Can anyone help me??

Believe or not, my TV repairman, says it's a first for him and he has to look it up or ask another sony repair person.....(WTF!) I need help.......


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *34xbr800kv* /forum/post/19244611
> 
> 
> I think I am going to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-GENUINE-SON...#ht_3093wt_909
> 
> 
> any objection as to not buy these?



I have bought most of my chips from this guy, He is a authorized Sony repair shop and his chips are good. He will also give advice and tips if you buy from him.


----------



## 34xbr800kv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/19248320
> 
> 
> I have bought most of my chips from this guy, He is a authorized Sony repair shop and his chips are good. He will also give advice and tips if you buy from him.



I will keep that in mind for the future, I went ahead and ordered them from Tri State. I got the sockets so, if there is a next time it wont be so bad.


----------



## 34xbr800kv

Got my parts in today. The easiest part was desoldering the ic chips. I had the hardest time pushing the new ic chips into the sockets. Got stuck in the finger with one and bleed all over the place. The next hardest part was getting the chips to set inside the 18 holes in the board. Well, I got excited, left the cover off, plugged it in, heard the power on sound, pushed the power button,...... NOW 3 blinks..... Now what?



Thanks for your help so far....


----------



## Blessedon

Is one of the ICs installed backwards? If so, it might be damaged.

Check to make sure your soldering is good. Post good pics if you can.


----------



## 34xbr800kv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/19272099
> 
> 
> Is one of the ICs installed backwards? If so, it might be damaged.
> 
> Check to make sure your soldering is good. Post good pics if you can.



Backwards meaning the words on the chip are the other way of how it was removed? I am fairly confident that I oriented them the way I took them off. I used sockets, and I have read that if the chip is not seated in the socket perfectly, it won't work. I have the chip pushed in as far as it will go. As far as my soldering, I did it with the TV on its face, so, I double checked after I was done and realized that the top of the pin was covered, but not the bottom (since the board was not flat, it is on straight up and down). So I am going to attempt to remove the new solder and re-solder all the pins. Hopefully this works, or my wife says its outa here!


----------



## tzurek1

Another set saved from the landfill. I just successfully revived this set that I have had since 2002. Disconnected and put the D board in the service position without removing the FBT connections. Unsoldered the 2 chips with desoldering braid. Installed 2 IC sockets and plugged in the chips. The set powered right up. Thanks to all those who contributed help in this forum.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tzurek1* /forum/post/19273232
> 
> 
> Another set saved from the landfill. I just successfully revived this set that I have had since 2002. Disconnected and put the D board in the service position without removing the FBT connections. Unsoldered the 2 chips with desoldering braid. Installed 2 IC sockets and plugged in the chips. The set powered right up. Thanks to all those who contributed help in this forum.



Congratulations. It's nice that your "monster" tube TV isn't in the dump.










TLK


----------



## 34xbr800kv

I removed the solder, and resoldered the sockets in place. I still have 3 blinks of red.


----------



## 34xbr800kv

bump, for answers, I would like to have it working by this coming Thursday, or my wife says it is gone.


----------



## rtmach

The chips are in the right direction but It looks like a lot of scraping and damage on the under side of the board. You may have damaged the circuit lines on the board. Almost all 3 blink problems , including mine , are due to either an open circuit or a short. mine was from too much solder which caused a short. You might try again and make sure you have clean and solid solder points. When I had 3 blinks from a short the chips were still fine, so it might be worth a try.


----------



## hawkeyor

My Sony KV-32HS420 standby light flashes four times, pauses, then flashes four times in a repeated fashion. Any help in decoding this error. I do see some flashes on the screen of light during power up but then the screen remains black. The TV was just moved from one house to another. It worked for a couple of hours then stopped working. I have left it unplugged over night and then when I turn it on the same thing. Any idea where to start?


----------



## rtmach

This is what the service manual says.


Vertical Deflection Stopped

4 times "BLINKS" 4:0 or 4:1 15Vi s not supplied. (D Board)

IC5004 is faulty. (D Board)

Has entered standby mode after

Horizontal raster.

Vertical deflection pulse is stopped.

Power line is shorted or power

supply is stopped.


----------



## WithLittleBrain

Hello all -


I own a SONY KV-30HS510 made in October 2003. It stopped working about a month ago and flashed the 6/7 series of lights. I came to this forum to learn what I could do to save my TV. I barely passed electronics in high school, and I was nervous about the repair I was planning to attempt. Last night with the two chips ordered from eBay, I made the repair and it was a SUCCESS!


I had no special tools and opted to go with the 'socket option' to make any future replacements easier.


You have no idea how empowered this has made me feel.


Thanks to everyone who posted anything on this forum.


Richard


----------



## Blessedon

Good work Richard!

It does feel empowering, doesn't it?

When I finished mine, I was walking on clouds for days


----------



## jassiji

I have a 34xs955 & the standby red light is not on when I have the TV off.


Once I turn the TV power button the red light blinks & the display turns on but no picture.


Is that a reason I have to turn the TV on & off a few times in order to get the OTA tuner to show picture & sound?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jassiji* /forum/post/19288928
> 
> 
> I have a 34xs955 & the standby red light is not on when I have the TV off.
> 
> 
> Once I turn the TV power button the red light blinks & the display turns on but no picture.
> 
> 
> Is that a reason I have to turn the TV on & off a few times in order to get the OTA tuner to show picture & sound?



Yes , you will have to do the repair this thread is about at some point. Read as much as you can and see the problems and the success stories before you start. Take your time and be careful and you should have your set back to normal. There is a lot of good tips and pics to look at to see what a good repair should look like and some that it shouldn't look like, good luck.


----------



## luckyram

I hope people who can help are still reading/contributing to this thread.......


I had the same problem the majority here have had with the KV40-XBR800. Would not power on, six blink code yada yada.


The D board was pulled & the two IC chips (IC6501 & 8002) were replaced w/sockets by a friend who did a perfect soldering job. The chips were from Tri State module with the newer "B" designation.


After repair, the TV fired up with no problems.....However, after about 4 days it again would not power up after being turned off and the 6 blinks were showing again. If enough time goes by (2-3 days unplugged) then it will power on again......this was the same scenario as BEFORE the IC Chip repair, that is....if I left it unplugged it would again power up.


So....I'm thinking it must be something other than the chips or along with them in the chain. I saw mention made of replacing the two larger capacitors (1200 uf, 250 volt) on the D board and/or the fusible resistor.


Am I headed in the right direction.....thoughts, advice????


----------



## Blessedon

Just to be safe; replace the two chips with new ones - you don't know if they got static damaged or something else.


And go ahead and replace the capacitors and resistors mentioned on tristatemodule's site.

All of the above is cheap, and you have an expert to solder for you. Should work out fine.


----------



## sequoia7

My Sony 32HS420 would not turn on as of this morning. It has 7 blinks from the stand by light. Would the procedure replacing 2 components work for my model?


Thanks

Chris


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sequoia7* /forum/post/19395247
> 
> 
> My Sony 32HS420 would not turn on as of this morning. It has 7 blinks from the stand by light. Would the procedure replacing 2 components work for my model?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris



A search of this thread turns up at least one post (#1049) of a successful repair of a KV-32HS420 that had the 7 blinks diagnostic code. There is at least post of no joy after IC replacement.


Assuming that the 2 ICs can be replaced without causing any new damage, there's a better than 90% overall success rate reported by a pro (#415).


Regards


----------



## The Lizard King

Last night, I got TWENTY (20) red blinks before the picture never came on for my KD-36XS955. I thought, "Oh oh... Here we go..." I unplugged it for 1 minute, replugged it in, and now it works again.










Is my set ready to go on the fritz for an IC replacement soon?










TLK


----------



## Blessedon

Might as well order the chips and bone up on your soldering technique.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/19398877
> 
> 
> Might as well order the chips and bone up on your soldering technique.



My soldering technique is fine. Which IC chips should I buy for the 36XS955?


TLK


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/19404155
> 
> 
> My soldering technique is fine. Which IC chips should I buy for the 36XS955?
> 
> 
> TLK



I think this is a good place to get them, he has your model listed. http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-GENUINE-SON...item20b3b877d7


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/19404861
> 
> 
> I think this is a good place to get them, he has your model listed. http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-GENUINE-SON...item20b3b877d7



Thank you. How many days/weeks/months do you think I have before it won't turn on at all despite all the unplugging/replugging I do?


TLK


----------



## Blessedon

I'll stick my neck out here;

I'd give it two months max if activated twice daily.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blessedon* /forum/post/19407038
> 
> 
> I'll stick my neck out here;
> 
> I'd give it two months max if activated twice daily.



It's activated once daily, so that makes it 4 months. Woot! I still have some time left!










Seriously, thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. Because of it, I feel VERY confident that I can get my KD-36XS955 back up to par again when the time calls for it. When I do, I'll take pictures.


TLK









*EDIT*: I ordered two MCZ3001DB ICs (without sockets) today from the recommended eBay seller (zulfikar2000). I hope to never have to use them!


----------



## 187Stoned

i had the same problem as well......thanks to the incredible knowledge on here i was able to fix it. Thank you all.


Model #:KV-30HS510

6 flash problem

replaced both IC's


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *187Stoned* /forum/post/19412749
> 
> 
> i had the same problem as well......thanks to the incredible knowledge on here i was able to fix it. Thank you all.



A little more details would be helpful... Model number? Number of flashes/blinks? Which one (or both) ICs replaced?


TLK


----------



## hemogoblin

I have an XBR960 that has the 6/7 blinking lights problem. So if I get the socket replacement, this is what I basically need to do.


Unsolder 2 IC's

Solder 2 IC sockets

Install IC's to sockets


Am I missing something? ive never soldered anything this small, but I hate to see my lovely 960 die like this.


----------



## Blessedon

Your plan should work fine.

However, I would suggest you install the ICs into the sockets prior to soldering the sockets onto the board. Myself and a couple of others here could not get the IC into the socket easily due to the necessity of precise pin alignment.


----------



## luckyram

Ok......so it turns out the two 250 V capacitors on the D Board of my 40XBR800 were bad. I had them tested by a tech and both were in need of replacement.


So the capacitors were replaced as well as the 2 fusible resistors (all purchased from Tri State Module).


Once again, the TV fired right up and did so for several days before not working again. If I try to turn it on via remote or manually many times (8 or more) it will eventually turn on.


I know I should have checked the caps BEFORE replacing the IC chips first and now think the caps being bad may have caused problems with the IC chips.


I have ordered 2 new chips and will be installing them when they come. If that doesn't work, I'll probably trash the TV. Can't keep throwing good money after bad.


----------



## Blessedon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luckyram* /forum/post/19418904
> 
> 
> Ok......so it turns out the two 250 V capacitors on the D Board of my 40XBR800 were bad. I had them tested by a tech and both were in need of replacement.
> 
> 
> So the capacitors were replaced as well as the 2 fusible resistors (all purchased from Tri State Module).
> 
> 
> Once again, the TV fired right up and did so for several days before not working again. If I try to turn it on via remote or manually many times (8 or more) it will eventually turn on.
> 
> 
> I know I should have checked the caps BEFORE replacing the IC chips first and now think the caps being bad may have caused problems with the IC chips.
> 
> 
> I have ordered 2 new chips and will be installing them when they come. If that doesn't work, I'll probably trash the TV. Can't keep throwing good money after bad.



I would hazard to guess that the new chips will definitely fix the problem with your TV.


----------



## The Lizard King

Well, someone local is GIVING me (for free!) a KD-30XS955 with the blinking standby light of doom. I already have my ICs, which I bought for my KD-36XS955, but it hasn't gone dead on me (yet). I'm going to go ahead and try to repair the free 30XS955 with my set of ICs as "practice." I'll take plenty of pics and let you all know how it went.










TLK









*EDIT:* Well, crap... That deal fell through... The "seller" ended up giving it away to someone else, despite me being the first person to contact her about it. I'm sure someone reading this knows that they got one in over me.


----------



## czhongwang

Thanks to the info in this thread, I've successfully repaired a Sony KV36HS510 that has been having this 6-blink problem for a month.


I bought the MCZ3001DB chips from the following shop in Metro Vancouver,Canada (I picked them up $5.99/each, they also do mail delivery):


Rich-Tech Electronics Components Ltd.

140-3757 Jacombs Road,

Richmond, B.C. Canada, V6V 2R3

Tel: 604-805-8392 or 604-233-1868 Fax: 604-272-4568

Email: [email protected] 


Replaced IC8002 first and luckily that is the one! Didn't replace 6502. I slide the board out after pulling some cables from it (much like a PC motherboard), placed it sideways to do the desoldering/soldering work.


Another TV saved from landfill!


----------



## Blessedon

Outstanding *czhongwang*, your TV is almost identical to my HS500 and worth saving.


This gives me an opportunity to remark upon my recent, fruitless quest to replace an old (non-HD) CRT with a new flat-panel. I walked out of two stores TV-less realizing I am too spoiled on this Sony; unable to compromise. I am a demon on blur, and even the highest-priced, latest LED/LCDs, across the board, still cannot match the seamless picture I have now.

I may need therapy!


----------



## HDTimeShifter

(I didn't have time to read through all 22 pages - just the first page.)


My 7.5 year old 34XBR800 woouldn't turn on for the F1 race Sunday morning. No standby lights, blinking, or any kind of sound when I press the power button on the TV or remote. I've tried unplugging and plugging into other power strips and outlets. Is the power supply dead or what?


I went to Ultimate Electronics and Best Buy and could see blurriness on football players during a game on all of their plasmas, LCDs, or LEDs. So I could get a much larger and lighter TV for less than half of what I paid for my tube, but they still aren't even as good as my old 1080i tube.


----------



## rtmach

Here is what the service manual says,


Result Probable Cause Location Detected Symptoms
*Power does not turn on Does not light _______

Power cord is not plugged in.

Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)

Power does not come on.

No power is supplied to the TV.

AC Power supply is faulty.*

If your lucky it's just the fuse located close to the power line in.


----------



## jdre

Sometimes, it *is* the fuse, had this in a couple of flatscreen PC monitors, and one TV I can remember.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I guess I have to open the box to access the fuse? I'll try taking a look inside.


----------



## HDTimeShifter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/19463439
> 
> 
> Here is what the service manual says,
> 
> 
> Result Probable Cause Location Detected Symptoms
> *Power does not turn on Does not light _______
> 
> Power cord is not plugged in.
> 
> Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)
> 
> Power does not come on.
> 
> No power is supplied to the TV.
> 
> AC Power supply is faulty.*
> 
> If your lucky it's just the fuse located close to the power line in.



I popped open the case and looked at the fuse. It is a really short fuse with rainbow colors on the outside. I put it up to a light and the wire inside is not broken. If a fuse blows, does the wire break like a light bulb filament?


Otherwise it must be the power supply.


----------



## rtmach

Yes it would break, but sometimes in the cap . The best way to check is with a meter.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Found out you can't tell a blown fuse just by looking at it. What voltage or amperage should it have if I test with a multimeter?


----------



## rtmach

just a ohm test to see if the circuit is good.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Anyone know what type of fuse it is? I'll look when I get home and hopefully there is a readable model number if I need to find a replacement at Radio Shack.


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/19479867
> 
> 
> Anyone know what type of fuse it is?



250V, 6.3A fuse, Sony P/N 1-532-506-51


Part# 153250651 has been discontinued. This is the replacement part: 153232500


US$4.62 from servicesales.sel.sony.com


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I couldn't get any ohm reading on my fuse and it was kind of dark/dirty towards one end, so I assume it is blown.


Radio Shack doesn't carry it so I just ordered a new fuse from Sony. Yeah - no shipping fee (would have been more than the fuse itself).










Thanks blue_z.


----------



## rtmach

Quote:

Originally Posted by *prsa01* 
Hi guys,


I pulled the D board and replaced the ICs with sockets. I had pulled the red and blue wires from the FBT to remove the board. The blue wire just pushes back into the FBT fine but the red wire just bends every time I try pushing it in. The red wire goes into a tube so I can't really see well enough to know what type of connection I am pushing into. The stripped portion of the wire goes down into the tube but when I try to put enough force to seat it (like I did with the blue wire) it bends in the tube. I am trying to come up with ways to support the wire in the tube (straws, etc) so it doesn't bend.


Any tips, tricks, tools, whatever would be MUCH appreciated.


Thanks
There is a special tool for that, https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.co...T99860735.aspx you can call and make sure that is the one, they also have the replacement lead for less than $10 last time I checked.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prsa01* /forum/post/19485282
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by prsa01
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I pulled the D board and replaced the ICs with sockets. I had pulled the red and blue wires from the FBT to remove the board. The blue wire just pushes back into the FBT fine but the red wire just bends every time I try pushing it in. The red wire goes into a tube so I can't really see well enough to know what type of connection I am pushing into. The stripped portion of the wire goes down into the tube but when I try to put enough force to seat it (like I did with the blue wire) it bends in the tube. I am trying to come up with ways to support the wire in the tube (straws, etc) so it doesn't bend.
> 
> 
> Any tips, tricks, tools, whatever would be MUCH appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> There is a special tool for that, https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.co...T99860735.aspx you can call and make sure that is the one, they also have the replacement lead for less than $10 last time I checked.
> 
> 
> ====================
> 
> 
> Thanks rtmach
> 
> 
> To clarify, this isn't the anode wire. It is 1 of the 2 wires that go to the C board.
> 
> 
> Thanks again in advance for any help, tips, etc!!



Ooops, my mistake. If the wire is stranded you could try a bit of solder to make it more rigid. If you can't get it any other way you might consider a stiff piece of wire that will insert into the hole and connect, then solder the wire to that and cover with shrink wrap.


----------



## tveli

which correlates with longer XBR/power-supply/CRT-TV life, not in terms of operating hours, but in terms of earliest failure in terms of calendar date?


- leaving the TV on all the time ,

or

- powering it on & off a twice times daily, with just an hour or three of time-off at most.


?


----------



## SEADAVE

I cautiously report that I have one more success story to add. I hate to declare victory for fear that karma will bite me in the rear... but, for the moment, my Sony is back in action. A HUGE THANK YOU to all of you who posted here with tips, tricks, and encouragement. I would not have done this if not for you.


I have close to zero experience soldering and was totally in fear of electrocuting myself while working inside the TV. I did practice soldering/desoldering some 18-pin sockets on a Radio Shack circuit board before starting this job. Working on the actual D-board was much harder due to having to work on the board at an awkward angle/poor position with the board still attached to the TV and due to the proximity of so many other components on the circuit board.


I am shocked, stunned, amazed, dumbfounded... and darn happy that the fix actually worked for me. I almost gave up several times before achieving success. I even went out and looked at new TV's which really just inspired me to work harder on fixing this TV.


TV: Sony KV-36XBR400

Manufactured: October 2000

Symptoms: Turn TV on, hear degaussing "whump" sound, hear some normal "click" sounds, see the front panel LED blink a few times like usual, screen remains blank, hear another "click" as the TV turns itself back off, front panel LED blinks 7 times and repeats. Attempt to turn TV on again and same thing happens only this time 4 blinks. Attempt to turn TV on again, same thing, 7 blinks. It pretty consistently alternated between a 4-blink and 7-blink LED error code.


I purchased my MCZ3001DB chips (4 in total, good to have spares) from "corewave" on eBay.


$37.90 for 4 chips and 4 18-pin sockets delivered to my door.


I first replaced the IC8002 chip because I could access that one with the chassis in the "service position". That did not solve the problem.


I then removed the D-board (leaving the flyback transformer wires connected) and replaced the IC6501 chip. That fixed it.


Notes:


Soldering iron used: Weller WM120 12 watt mini duty "soldering pencil". It has a very fine .4mm conical tip on it. The wattage is probably too low to be ideal but the fine point tip was good.


Solder used: Kester "Electronic Silver Solder", 62% Tin, 36% lead, 2% silver, 44 Flux, Dia. .020/.5mm. It worked great.


Desoldering: I used a Radio Shack 64-2098 "Vacuum Desoldering Tool". In combination with the low-wattage iron, I had zero luck desoldering the chips whole. I finally snipped the old chip's pins at the "shoulders" and pulled the pins one at a time. I then used this tool to suck the remaining solder from the holes.


I highly recommend using some small flush cutters (wire cutters - I bought my Crescent S2SK5 [combo pack of flush cutters and small needle nose pliers] from Home Depot for $7.99) to snip the old chip out and pull the pins one at a time.


My D-Board was a double-sided circuit board and my IC's were positioned differently than many of the pictures of D-boards I've seen on this thread. IC6501 was hard to access due to some heat sinks and IC8002 was hard to access due to some capacitors being in the way and the flyback transformer shield being in the way.


My A-Board also has one of these chips on it which I have not replaced.


I did use sockets.


For some crazy reason I've had the Joe Cocker song, "You Are So Beautiful To Me", in my head all day but the lyrics I'm singing are, "You Are So Beautiful... TV".










Thanks again to whomever first discovered that these chips are the problem and to everyone who has shared their story on this thread.


- Dave


----------



## prsa01

Original symptom no power on -7/6 blinks. Sometimes (increasingly rarely) would come on after being on for a long period.


Other than 1 boneheaded mistake on my part I seem to have a working set thanks to the info from all of you. Thanks SO much for all the info!!


I also purchased the chips and sockets from eBay. 2 sockets and chips (DB version with the original shindengen name, My board happened to already have the DB version chips) for ~ $16. I pulled the board completely and had it soldered by another guy advertising on Craigslist for $30. I just didn't trust my desoldering skills. This guy had allot of experience fixing electronic boards so he went thru and resoldered all the marginal looking joints.


The bonehead mistake I made was not taking a picture before disassembly and thinking I had correctly remembered where the 2 C board wires plugged into the fbt. I had marked the blue wire "bottom". On my version fbt there is another tube next to the anode tube that looks a little like another connection. I put the blue wire where the red wire should go and was trying to put the red wire in this tube that isn't really a connection. Long story short in the process of trying all that I apparently took out one of my new chips. Luckily only one of the old ones was bad so in trying all the combos of old and new chips I came across one that worked.


TV back up and running for the time being. Thanks again for the info and bringing this great TV back to life.


----------



## Fletch6

I just found this forum and because I have the dread 7 light blinks think I have the same problem. Having no experience soldering and little working on TV, but loving my Sony I would like to try to fix myself. My 2002 KV32XBR450 started not coming every time on a few weeks ago and finally stopped working all together. Not having a lot of money like most during the bad times and being Scotch would like to fix. I started reading the results and the amount of information is a little over whelming and wonder if someone could walk me thru a few questions. I have the back off the set and did some vacuuming and started to take pictures and unplug the board. I found that on my set that there were two black tabs that allowed me to slide the boards to the rear with a few wire unties. After removing three gold screws that hold the board down and pulling the black tabs that hold the board down on the left I can go no further. this board and the one on the right seem to be held together by 6 black funny looking things. Do I have to remove the rear section of the set where every thing plugs in and how do I do this? I will be waiting for an answer and reading to see if this has been addressed befor


----------



## SEADAVE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fletch6* /forum/post/19505485
> 
> 
> After removing three gold screws that hold the board down and pulling the black tabs that hold the board down on the left I can go no further. this board and the one on the right seem to be held together by 6 black funny looking things. Do I have to remove the rear section of the set where every thing plugs in and how do I do this? I will be waiting for an answer and reading to see if this has been addressed befor



The bridge connectors between the D and A boards do need to be detached from the D-board before you can remove the D-board. I used some needle nose pliers to _gently_ squeeze the connectors and rock them while _gently_ pulling up. They disconnected from the D-board pretty easily this way. I tried doing it by gripping the connectors between my thumb and forefinger and had much less success.


My D-Board had more than 3 "gold" screws holding it into the chassis. I think there were 6 including one near the middle of the D-Board. Make sure you have all of the screws removed.


Once the screws are removed from the D-board and the plastic squeeze clips holding the right side (as you face the front of the TV) of the board to the chassis tray are released, I was then able to lift the front and right sides of the D-board ever so slightly and slide the board toward the front and right side to remove it. In my case there were tabs between the D and A boards and a tab at the back of the set that the D-board slides under. I didn't have to remove the back panel with the connector jacks on it to remove the D-board.


----------



## Fletch6

OK thanks SeaDave I did find the name of the black things is bridge connectors and I am now waiting for the arrival of the new IC's. I will be going over to radio shack to get the recomended repair kit(soldering iron, etc.) tomorrow. I can lift the D board up off the chassis and there were only three on my set.


----------



## Fletch6

OK the board is almost loose. All I am having trouble with now is the two red wires from the fly, but what concernes me most is that one of the IC's on the B Board looks like it has been fried. I think the number is IC 3413. It is a smaller IC next to a large square IC 3402. I think I am going to have to have this tested to make sure this is not the problem.


----------



## Blessedon

As a proud member of AVSforum, and having been the beneficiary of so much help here, I have tried to reciprocate whenever possible to newer members with problems that were within my limited ability.

However my good wife wanted a newer 1080p capable TV, even though our KV36-HS500 looks and functions perfectly, so I will list it on Ebay as we have nowhere to keep it. I hope no one here thinks me a weakling for succumbing to her wishes










I will remain subscribed to this thread forever in hopes that I may assist in the years to come.

Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## ykilde

Does anyone have any info on how to test the MCZ3001D IC's? I cannot find any datasheets anywhere.


----------



## HDTimeShifter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blue_z* /forum/post/19480038
> 
> 
> 250V, 6.3A fuse, Sony P/N 1-532-506-51
> 
> 
> Part# 153250651 has been discontinued. This is the replacement part: 153232500
> 
> 
> US$4.62 from servicesales.sel.sony.com



Fuse arrived yesterday (don't know why it took that long [Friday to Thurs. for FedEx from Texas to Colorado] when just I ordered an HID light kit from my car which arrived from the East Coast in only 3 days via snail mail). Yes, my 34XBR800 powers up, but now it's sitting on the floor too far from my A/V system that I wasn't able to hook up the DVI cable to my DVR to verify that it shows video. Wish I'd found out about this and tried it before spending 2 weeks frantically researching flat-screens. But at least I found out our 34XBRs still trump plasmas or LCDs and happy to save a grand or more!


----------



## Fletch6

Now I am in trouble. I just found a KV36 on a local for sale web page for $105 take it away. Supposed to work great and they just delivered the new chips today. And my wife just commented that she does not like the set because it is so big anyway. For this money I think I will buy the set and try to fix the old one myself and sell for what I have in the parts. (if it works)


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Lucky no takers as I had offered mine up for free when it died. Just a $5 part and all is great again!


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/19515892
> 
> 
> Lucky no takers as I had offered mine up for free when it died. Just a $5 part and all is great again!



You might want to plug it in to a good power strip with surge protection and suppression, since it was the main fuse it could have been a major power spike. I think these sets and the chips are sensitive to the normal spikes you will get all day from your power co.


----------



## Mason_Dixon

My Sony KD-30XS955 died this past week and I have been searching the web for a possible solution. I think that the solution is in these threads and I'm just trying to confirm it since I have noticed that several Sony sets are mentioned on this thread and hope the remedy is applicable to my set.


PROBLEM: The set was working fine, no hints of any problems. The set was turned on with the cable remote, the regular sound from a relay?? was heard, and then there was no sound or picture.

I tried to shut off the set with the cable remote to no avail. Not being familiar with the LED's I checked the operating manual for help. I then went on the net to study up on the LED's.

Since I couldn't shut the set off with the remote, I unplugged the set from the wall socket. (No power strip used). After waiting for about an hour, I plugged the set in and it immediately began a startup routine. Again, no picture or sound. I noticed that the LED was blinking 6 times (LOW +B OCP/OVP). I then used the Sony remote to try and shut off the set. I heard another faint click (relay??) and the LED flashed 7 times, paused, then another 7 times (Horizontal Deflection Stopped). I pulled the plug and continued my search for a remedy.


I admit that I didn't read through all 40+ threads, however, I sense that the culprit is on the D board in the form of some IC's. If I'm reading the previous comments properly, then the offending IC's are IC6501 or IC8002 or both for my model set. Am I on the right track?


----------



## Blessedon

You are definitely on the right track Mason. If you are comfortable with soldering then read page 14 (I think), that's where the gist of the repair directions are located, and spend the $30 or so on chips and sockets to get it working again.


----------



## the bassman

My KV30hs420 had the 7 blinking standy by LED. I found this thread, opened the TV up and located the mcz3001db chips. Found some at a local electronics shop.


replacing the chip in the ic6501 position did the trick.


Thanks everyone for their detailed fixes - they were right on.


BTW- I did put the TV on its face and slid the D board to the left(standing ehind TV), cut the plastic obstructing the bottom of the D board, also used sockets to confirm chip was bad by swaping back and forth.


----------



## Mraknroll

I must say this forum is great, very helpful with my issue, so thanks for all the input.

I had the same problem with my KV-34xbr800, intermittently shutting down w/ 7 blinks. If I powered down for a while it would work again, but the problem was becoming more frequent. It finally became permanent last week so I read through this string and sourced the mcz3001db chips in preparation for the recommended repair. But I couldn't help thinking how many of the successful chip replacement repairs might have been simply bad solder joints on the suspect chips. So, before I bought the chips, I decided to test the theory.

First I tried eliminating other possibilities, so after removing the back I flexed the boards slightly & reseated all the connectors, then powered up again, no change. So I then re-soldered the joints on IC8002 and powered up again. Bingo! It powered right up & has been running solid for 48 hours (knock on wood).

So, obviously this doesn't mean that others who replaced the chips didn't need to do the repair, but I think its worth doing a quick re-solder on the D-board first before replacing any components.

I'll post an update if mine fails again, here's hoping you never hear from me again!










-Mark


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mraknroll* /forum/post/19585301
> 
> 
> I must say this forum is great, very helpful with my issue, so thanks for all the input.
> 
> I had the same problem with my KV-34xbr800, intermittently shutting down w/ 7 blinks. If I powered down for a while it would work again, but the problem was becoming more frequent. It finally became permanent last week so I read through this string and sourced the mcz3001db chips in preparation for the recommended repair. But I couldn't help thinking how many of the successful chip replacement repairs might have been simply bad solder joints on the suspect chips. So, before I bought the chips, I decided to test the theory.
> 
> First I tried eliminating other possibilities, so after removing the back I flexed the boards slightly & reseated all the connectors, then powered up again, no change. So I then re-soldered the joints on IC8002 and powered up again. Bingo! It powered right up & has been running solid for 48 hours (knock on wood).
> 
> So, obviously this doesn't mean that others who replaced the chips didn't need to do the repair, but I think its worth doing a quick re-solder on the D-board first before replacing any components.
> 
> I'll post an update if mine fails again, here's hoping you never hear from me again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Mark



Thanks for the report Mark. It will be _very_ interesting to see if your resoldering method results in a permanent repair! And post an update sometime down the road even if everything continues to work.


----------



## Jeffrey Cohan

Hi

I have a Sony KV XBR34 800.

I changed the 2 ic chips, but after putting everything back together again, I can't seem to locate the proper areas for three connectors to plug into, and where a spring that I found in the Sony's shell, connects to.


Standing behind the TV, on the right side of the D board the are two possible places to connect two unconnected plugs into. I'm not sure which of the two (actually four connectors are still open) possible places that are open to connect to, I should plug the two unattached connectors in this area into.


So to try to re-explain the problem: I have two unconnected plugs, and there are four possible places to connect the two plugs into. I need someone to call me or email me a picture which shows where these two connectors plug into.


I also by accident pulled out the white wire with the red connector out of the CSX board. I am not sure where that red connector plugs into. I need the same feed back that I need in my first problem.


Last, I found a spring in the Sony KV XBR 34 800 that was not connected to anything. It must have popped off of someplace that it was connected to, when I took the D board out of the Sony TV. Again I need feed back on where I should attach it to.


If someone can't email me their telephone number so that I can call them for the information that I need, if they can take a picture or these areas, and email the pictures to me, it would really help me, and allow me to complete the repair on the Sony.


My email is [email protected] .


Waiting and hoping,


Jeffrey Cohan


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jeffrey Cohan* /forum/post/19616251
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have a Sony KV XBR34 800.
> 
> I changed the 2 ic chips, but after putting everything back together again, I can't seem to locate the proper areas for three connectors to plug into, and where a spring that I found in the Sony's shell, connects to.
> 
> 
> Standing behind the TV, on the right side of the D board the are two possible places to connect two unconnected plugs into. I'm not sure which of the two (actually four connectors are still open) possible places that are open to connect to, I should plug the two unattached connectors in this area into.
> 
> 
> So to try to re-explain the problem: I have two unconnected plugs, and there are four possible places to connect the two plugs into. I need someone to call me or email me a picture which shows where these two connectors plug into.
> 
> 
> I also by accident pulled out the white wire with the red connector out of the CSX board. I am not sure where that red connector plugs into. I need the same feed back that I need in my first problem.
> 
> 
> Last, I found a spring in the Sony KV XBR 34 800 that was not connected to anything. It must have popped off of someplace that it was connected to, when I took the D board out of the Sony TV. Again I need feed back on where I should attach it to.
> 
> 
> If someone can't email me their telephone number so that I can call them for the information that I need, if they can take a picture or these areas, and email the pictures to me, it would really help me, and allow me to complete the repair on the Sony.
> 
> 
> My email is [email protected] .
> 
> 
> Waiting and hoping,
> 
> 
> Jeffrey Cohan



I'm guessing the spring is from your on/off switch. Since all of these boards are a little different from model to model , the best thing to do is to post pic's of your board showing where the plugs and connectors are, that way we can all see and make sure you have it right. this would be just a guess but your white wire with red connector goes to a connection about an inch to 2 inches in from the bottom right of the cx board as your are looking from the front of the TV.


----------



## Jeffrey Cohan

Thanks Rtmach


I will do that tomorrow. You are right about the white wire with the red tip. I remember taking it off of the cx board from the area that you described. But after looking at that area, I can't find any solder or holes where that board would fit into. IF I had a picture of that connector being attached to a certain spot on the cx board, I could probably figure out where to solder it to. But thanks again.

Respectfully

Jeffrey Cohan
[email protected]


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jeffrey Cohan* /forum/post/19624473
> 
> 
> Thanks Rtmach
> 
> 
> I will do that tomorrow. You are right about the white wire with the red tip. I remember taking it off of the cx board from the area that you described. But after looking at that area, I can't find any solder or holes where that board would fit into. IF I had a picture of that connector being attached to a certain spot on the cx board, I could probably figure out where to solder it to. But thanks again.
> 
> Respectfully
> 
> Jeffrey Cohan
> [email protected]



You might want to look inside the red part and see if the tab is there , you might have broke it off. On my set's it looks like a tab connection not solder connection.


----------



## Jetra Vard

I'm gearing up to try this job on a 34HS420. Still have a lot to read first....


This cheap soldering practice kit comes with what one reviewer says is a good 25w soldering pen. Would this be sufficient for the job or should I get a stand-alone soldering pen?

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-AmeriKi...ef=pd_sim_hi_1 


In earlier posts Icaillo insisted it was a bad idea to use 18 pin sockets. Has anyone found them to cause problems down the road?


Thanks.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jetra Vard* /forum/post/19631028
> 
> 
> I'm gearing up to try this job on a 34HS420. Still have a lot to read first....
> 
> 
> This cheap soldering practice kit comes with what one reviewer says is a good 25w soldering pen. Would this be sufficient for the job or should I get a stand-alone soldering pen?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-AmeriKi...ef=pd_sim_hi_1
> 
> 
> In earlier posts Icaillo insisted it was a bad idea to use 18 pin sockets. Has anyone found them to cause problems down the road?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



looks good for the price and stuff you get to practice, a 25w is what I use and it works great. as far as the sockets I've done 1 with and 3 without and have seen no difference. I was told by a repair tech not to use sockets because of the high voltage but the main problem I've seen posted is getting the pins in without bending them. So if you have a problem you need to check both the soldering of the sockets and the chip pins in the socket, good luck and read this thread good before starting to avoid some common mistakes. This is a very easy job if you take your time and not make the mistakes some have had, including myself.


----------



## Jetra Vard

Thanks. I'm going to finish this thread, the pinball repair article and the numerous solder tutorials and videos around the web before I start on the real thing.


Here's my possible shopping list so far...


40/60 Rosin Core Solder .75MM---1MM Probably Kester brand

Desoldering Braid/Wick-----Not sure about width yet

Solder Sucker

Xcelite General Purpose Shear

Chip Grabber

Compressed air

Chips & Sockets

Multi Meter


Does this seem about right? Hope this works out, judging by the PQ this set had last time it was working my set should have years of life left in it.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jetra Vard* /forum/post/19635524
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm going to finish this thread, the pinball repair article and the numerous solder tutorials and videos around the web before I start on the real thing.
> 
> 
> Here's my possible shopping list so far...
> 
> 
> 40/60 Rosin Core Solder .75MM---1MM Probably Kester brand
> 
> Desoldering Braid/Wick-----Not sure about width yet
> 
> Solder Sucker
> 
> Xcelite General Purpose Shear
> 
> Chip Grabber
> 
> Compressed air
> 
> Chips & Sockets
> 
> Multi Meter
> 
> 
> Does this seem about right? Hope this works out, judging by the PQ this set had last time it was working my set should have years of life left in it.



I did my first repairs with the solder sucker and it got specks on other circuit lines and caused problems so I now use a narrow wick that I cut at an angle to have more of a point. I also suggest a stationary clamp on magnifying glass and a bright light since these solder points are so small. The solder sucker is fine if you have the board in a flat position but if you read in the thread you will find the info to get it in the service position which is sideways. you will only need to unplug some plug connections and the bridge connectors, don't disconnect anything from the flyback. there are some good step by step posts so I don't need to list them again, but the best way is to get the board in the service position. Another good tip is that when your removing the old chip use the tip of the soldering iron to push the pins to the middle of the hole, that way there's no trace bridges that can be hard to see, if you do that the chip will just fall out without having to damage any of the board by pulling or prying on them.


----------



## Jetra Vard

Thanks for the useful tips. The service position definitely seems the best way.


Looks like the problems with these ICs go back years so one good thing about this happening recently is I can avoid all the trial & error everyone else went through & hopefully get everything perfect.


----------



## WaveBoy

My Sony Wega 32" CRT is now starting to act mildy funny. Everthing still works perfectly, but sometimes when I turn my TV the color on the screen is like a greenish tint, then seconds later it goes back to normal. There was even a time when I noticed a wierd greenish blurry splotch in the bottom right hand corner of the screen. It was only there for a day though....


What's the deal? I've also had this TV for around 5 years now hehe.

But I have another CRT which I've had for 9 years and it's still working perfectly.


----------



## LiquidSnake

How are you gentlemen? I just received a KV-40XBR800. $100. The seller stated that she had stopped using it regularly because it would not turn on intermittently. When we plugged it up, it just powered on. I have already ordered sockets and chips in order to be proactive, but out of curiosity how long have folks usually had their sets working before needing to do the swap? How long is the longest that anyone has needed to replace their replaced chips? I think this thread is awesome by the way, love this screen and looking forward to many years of use with it.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake* /forum/post/19642376
> 
> 
> How are you gentlemen? I just received a KV-40XBR800. $100. The seller stated that she had stopped using it regularly because it would not turn on intermittently. When we plugged it up, it just powered on. I have already ordered sockets and chips in order to be proactive, but out of curiosity how long have folks usually had their sets working before needing to do the swap? How long is the longest that anyone has needed to replace their replaced chips? I think this thread is awesome by the way, love this screen and looking forward to many years of use with it.



I had to re do mine on a 40xbr800 that I also got for a $100 after about 6 months, but that was because I used a solder sucker and got specks on some of the other circuit lines. it would cut off in the vivid setting and went completely out so I cleaned off the specks and it works perfect now. But these new DB chips should last at least as long or maybe longer than the originals. Your 40xbr was made in 2003-2004 and it started going bad in the last year or so, same as mine, so that's about 5-6 years. I also was able to pick up another 40xbr800 that was still working for $200 and it still has the original chips and still works. So I spent about $375 and now have 2 40xbr800's with the originals stands, plus a dozen chips and the soldering tools, not bad for 2 of the best crt's ever made. And thanks to finding this thread the know how to repair them.







My advice is to take your time ,read this thread carefully to not make some common mistakes others have and not worry about fixing this problem again for awhile, assuming you do a good job.


----------



## LiquidSnake

Damn, I wish I were that lucky. The owner did not have a stand so now I have to find something that will support the weight of this colossus.


----------



## mrevil1

Well gentlemen, I just gotta' say.... this forum is one of the best. I know for sure that if it was unavailable to me, this great set would be in the trash pile.

You know the story the dreaded 6 to 7 blinks. I just followed the directions on this forum and ordered the IC's and sockets. I used a solder sucker, it was much easier than wick, soldered in the sockets plugged in the new IC's and wall-ahh....... she's back up and running. I only have one problem, I don't know how i am going to tell the previous owner, who gave me the set, that I fixed it for under $40.00 bucks.







Maybe I will just keep my mouth shut.










Thanks to all you guys for the great info on what I think is one of the best pictures out there. Sincerely Dave AKA Mr Evil1


----------



## TeeJay1952

Cost of repair average from TV Repair places was $350.

I moved on as I don't solder but was fascinated by everyones efforts to repair 960's.

Good Luck to all you Mr Fix-its.

Tee Jay


----------



## Red S/C

My loving Sony just took a s**t !!


I bought this behemoth over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !


My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.


I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch(edit: my girlfriend said that this was racist and displays bigotry- until she remembered that I am Scotch/English-and have been told by her that I am cheap!!)) enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!


I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the IC part#s (2-3 MCX3001D)or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!! I also plan on using the sockets, seems like cheap insurance for soldering mistakes and future replacements.


I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !


PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!


Thanks, Ron


p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red S/C* /forum/post/19695578
> 
> 
> My loving Sony just took a s**t !!
> 
> 
> I bought behemoth this over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !
> 
> 
> My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.
> 
> 
> I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!
> 
> 
> I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the ICs or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!!
> 
> 
> I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !
> 
> 
> PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ron
> 
> 
> p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).



Think of the IC's as internal fuses or circuit breakers/conductors, they will stop the flyback from sending a charge to the screen. With that said if you read this thread there are a bunch of step by step guides that will make it a very easy job if you read and take your time , maybe even practice some before you start if you haven't soldered before. lots of the posts are from first time members who have read this thread and fixed their sets on the first try. you can get the chips for about $15 and a soldering kit from amazon for $15-$20 . so less than $40 to have your set back. I'm always looking on craigslist for non working XBR's for free or cheap either to fix or for the parts for future fixes.


----------



## HDTimeShifter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red S/C* /forum/post/19695578
> 
> 
> My loving Sony just took a s**t !!
> 
> 
> I bought this behemoth over a year and a half ago on Criagslist and I am emotionally involved with this TV... I LOVE the picture and sound quality of this set !!! It is rarely turned off for one reason or another, now I remember why !
> 
> 
> My girlfriend has bought 3 LG flat screens this year, and this set is better than any TV I have seen.
> 
> 
> I am so glad that I found this forum... to find out that I'm not the only one that is not afraid to attempt repair of this TV - or is just Scotch(edit: my girlfriend said that this was racist and displays bigotry- until she remembered that I am Scotch/English-and have been told by her that I am cheap!!)) enough to give up on it !! I am not afraid to repair this set- it's already broken !!!
> 
> 
> I have yet to get this elephantine receiver on it's face and rip the back off of it- but does anyone know for sure the IC part#s (2-3 MCX3001D)or fuses that I need to repair it ??? For the cost I might as well replace them all, Plus there are lots of Sonys around here for free that won't turn on !!! I also plan on using the sockets, seems like cheap insurance for soldering mistakes and future replacements.
> 
> 
> I told my girlfriend that when we sell our house they will get a free Sony with it. It rode around in the back of my van for quite a while before I could round up the manpower to get this box of anvils into the bedroom !
> 
> 
> PLEASE help me so I won't have to renege on my word !!! PLUS it will cost me $13.00 just to throw this boat anchor away !!!
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ron
> 
> 
> p.s. There have possibly been some phantom electrical spikes in my power supply, our LG that is plugged into the same circuit has been turning on several times at night (fuse in the Sony?????).



If the power LED does not light up at all and you hear no powering up sound when you press the remote on button or the power button on the TV, it is most likely the main fuse. It was a $5 part that takes a few days ordered online from Sony (see post a couple of pages ago where someone told me the link and replacement part number).


Unfortunately, I had already tossed the foam pieces from the box when I thought mine was dead so it won't move with me if I ever move out of my house.


Ha ha, I never knew Scotch were cheap like Jews (my bro-in-law) or Asians (me) until I took a tour of the Highlands a couple of years ago and the tour driver/guide told us some Scotch jokes.


The $5 fuse saved me from spending $1000 on a new 58" plasma, and shopping for a new TV revealed even the best new plasmas and LEDs have fuzziness artifacts with football players in motion.


Just make sure you hold the top handle securely so the face doesn't end up tilting and landing on the floor when you lower it from your stand to the ground. Mine ended up with a chip on the top edge where it made contact with a bar bell - I had not expected it to tilt over to the heavy face when we lowered it - luckily the screen didn't contact anything hard and shatter into a zillion pieces. Only damage was the chip on the cabinet and a temporarily tweaked ring finger from the torquing force when we semi-slow-dropped it over...


----------



## biffmalibu

Help!! My XBR960 died.... the usual 6 flashes code.


Anybody in the Seattle area that can either repair or give me a hand repairing?


I'm a lousy shot at soldering!


----------



## Red S/C

Aloha to all on Christmas eve !!


I just wanted to know if the IC chips in my set were the MCZ3001d's? I ordered 3 chips and sockets from a domestic supplier. I purchased the Shindengen MCZ3001DB- 2 possible on the D board 1 possible on the other board, or to replace on other free Sonys around here. Is it the same #s on the chips that are in there? The numbers I see posted here are just the numbering position on the board?


The set makes the degaussing noise and I am getting the 6 blinks on the switch- just not powering up w/ no sound or picture.


Soldering isn't a problem, might be a little rusty on boards... and need to pick up some accessories that I have seen on this forum.


Is there any way to test this fuse/resister while I am in there? And what about the capacitors???


Thanks, Ron


p.s. Got this colossus out of the bedroom last night, and sat it face down in the spare bed room on a blanketed box. Boy- was my girlfriend's 22 year old son wheezing !!!


----------



## rtmach

I've got 10 sony's, 5 different models, and all have the same chassis #DA4, I repaired 3 different model's with the same chips so I think as long as it has a DA4 chassis they will work. I haven't seen anybody need to replace the third chip on the "A" board, I don't think that board has very high voltage like the D board. If you use sockets you will have a backup since some have reported just replacing one chip to fix it. I would think that unless your set got hit by lighting that replacing the chips should work.


----------



## Red S/C

Thanks !!! That's what I wanted to hear !!! Yes it does have a DA4 chassis... Now just waiting for the parts to come in....


Merry Christmas !!!!


----------



## Red S/C

Aloha to all I hope you had a merry Christmas !!!


I got out my girlfriends new Skil battery driver drill and blew the back off of my Sony. The chassis didn't really seem really locked in. Just slid it up and kinda propped it up on the base of the cabinet bottom, after loosening some of the reusable wire ties. Couldn't find my dremel tool from Harbor Freight, so went to the coffee can in my kitchen and found a set of old bypass loppers that belonged to my girlfriends father. I stuck the anvil side between the circuit board and the offending plastic frame work- and voila !! I just applied what I would call moderate, steady pressure and it cut it like butta ! Success! The plastic wasn't the super hard plastic that shatters, a lot softer than I thought. Total working time 15minutes max (not counting fighting off cats, my girlfriend worried about killing myself, and looking for tools) Now I am just waiting to receive my chips on Monday....


Pictures

#1 The set up

#2 the reusable ties

#3 the first cut

#4 another view

#5 Success!!


----------



## Red S/C

A few more pix....


Pictures


#1 The aftermath

#2 The tools and the remainder

#3 Clearance between tool and board right side

#4 Clearance between anvil and board left side

#5 The big picture of the sight of the surgery....


----------



## Jeffrey Cohan

Hi

I fixed the seven blinking lights on the Sony 34XBR 800, butnow I am getting three blinking lights. It's probably a bad solder or solder is attaching SOMETHING TO WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG.


I WILL DE-SOLDER in THE AREA OF WHERE THE 6505 CHIP IS ?, CLEAN UP ALL THE SOLDERS IN THAT AREA AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.


Just in case, can you explain to me where that five dollars fuse you spoke about resides on the Board. ( "D") ? or other board?

Thank you

Respectfully,


Jeff


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jeffrey Cohan* /forum/post/19713145
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> I fixed the seven blinking lights on the Sony 34XBR 800, butnow I am getting three blinking lights. It's probably a bad solder or solder is attaching SOMETHING TO WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG.
> 
> 
> I WILL DE-SOLDER in THE AREA OF WHERE THE 6505 CHIP IS ?, CLEAN UP ALL THE SOLDERS IN THAT AREA AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
> 
> 
> Just in case, can you explain to me where that five dollars fuse you spoke about resides on the Board. ( "D") ? or other board?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> 
> Jeff



3 blinks tend to be bad solder joints or a trace short or maybe chips in backwards. the main fuse is good or you wouldn't get any blinks, it's on the A board where the power cord come's in and multi colored. I have always said it's a good idea to use a magnifying glass to see the solder points and also to put a bright light behind the board to see any solder defects. I have had the 3 blink issue a couple times and it turned out to be bad solder points.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/19714580
> 
> 
> 3 blinks tend to be bad solder joints or a trace short or maybe chips in backwards. the main fuse is good or you wouldn't get any blinks, it's on the A board where the power cord come's in and multi colored. I have always said it's a good idea to use a magnifying glass to see the solder points and also to put a bright light behind the board to see any solder defects. I have had the 3 blink issue a couple times and it turned out to be bad solder points.



This happened to me too. How do you safely remove the bad solder joints and trace problems?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cajieboy* /forum/post/19716209
> 
> 
> This happened to me too. How do you safely remove the bad solder joints and trace problems?



I use a flat point screw driver very carefully and at a low angle to prevent damaging the circuit lines, it sounds dangerous but if the solder is on the circuit lines it comes off pretty easy. if you have a trace bridge to another lead or pin the best way is to touch it with the solder gun tip and pull up, the solder tip will act as a wick. I have used the screwdriver way and have had good success, it saved my d board on my 40xbr. I had traces and specs all over the area from using a solder sucker while the board was sideways. the circuit boards have a coating on the solder area's and the solder doesn't really fuse to anything but can cause a short. also in the split second it takes to reach another area the solder has already cooled enough to not make a good connection, that's the same thing that happens on a cold solder joint which is why it's important to make sure the joint is hot enough before removing the solder iron tip. I'm not an expert at this but I was in a band on the road and had to do a lot cord repair's mainly by flashlight under pressure, nothing like a crowd yelling at you when the PA doesn't work to get you motivated.


----------



## piemk

Hi to all and a big thanks to Dave R post 108 for location and pictures. My KV34 XBR800 is up and running again after replacing both Ic's and adding new machine pin sockets. I left the D board in place and rotated the TV over to de-solder the IC's using both solder wick and a soldapullt.I also cut the plastic bar out for additional clearance. I did not need a chip puller since I was able to slide a thin screw driver between the board and IC and pry it up ever so gently. I pre-fit the IC to the socket so I would not have any trouble once the socket was soldered in place. I also had my son hold the socket in place since it was now up side down while I soldered a few pins.


----------



## 39xbr800

did the IC fix last week on my set and was successfull! Thanks to this forum and all the documentation it went very smooth. The only thing i can add is that I removed the main board completely by also disconnecting the small board at the back of the tube. It was much easier to the rework at a bench...


----------



## hemogoblin

Hey guys, I finally ordered my IC's from ebay and hope to get them soon. I have had the 960 unplugged for almost 6 weeks, so im assuming I dont need to worry about ANY electricity being stored.


I dont think I saw specific 960 pics of the two IC's but do I need to set the 960 on its face (front glass facing floor) or can I do everything from the back?


And how much harder is it to remove the entire board, than it is to just work on it while in the case still?


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/19780172
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I finally ordered my IC's from ebay and hope to get them soon. I have had the 960 unplugged for almost 6 weeks, so im assuming I dont need to worry about ANY electricity being stored.
> 
> 
> I dont think I saw specific 960 pics of the two IC's but do I need to set the 960 on its face (front glass facing floor) or can I do everything from the back?
> 
> 
> And how much harder is it to remove the entire board, than it is to just work on it while in the case still?



I wouldn't worry about any voltage after 6 weeks, Ive done the repair on the same day. Every model could be a little different but the main thing is to do the repair within your comfort level. You might not be able to get to the chips underneath without risking some damage, my hs 420 had a solid mesh underneath the boards so I had to put it in the service position.

I've done it both ways and found getting the board in the service position is safer and easier. review this thread and you will find the steps to get it in the service position without disconnecting the flyback lead or any other leads off the flyback. you will only need to slide the chassis out , disconnect the harness plugs, unhook the connector bridges between the boards and unscrew the screws to get it there. The 2 previous posters did the repair on the first try "good work", but they both did it different, so like I said it depends on your comfort level.


----------



## MiniFoo

So I have a KV-34HS510 that stopped working about a month and a half ago. Typical symptoms: it would power on, but seemingly at random give either 4, 6, or 7-blinking lights. I'd frequently try plugging it in after leaving it unplugged for a few days to no avail, but every once in a blue moon the picture would actually come back... for about a minute or two. I really wish I could get it to occur again so I could get it on video since it's hard to describe, but the picture gradually (over the course of about five seconds) goes out of focus while slightly zooming in and dimming, then when it hits black the tube turns off. Afterwards, the same old error codes.


I opened the back of the TV to take a look inside and see if anything was amiss, but nothing seemed strange or out of place. So I ordered a couple of those replacement ICs and went to town taking the old ones out. Here's the strange thing: the new model ICs were in there already! Yes, the MCZ3001DB. I swapped them out for the ones I ordered anyway and made sure there weren't any shorts or cold solder joints.


No dice. Error codes still reign supreme. Some possible caveats may include me moving the TV very frequently (college student) and/or tweaking service menu settings for optimal picture quality (although I hadn't done any adjustments for a while before the TV died). To be honest, unless anybody has any really brilliant ideas for me to try, I want to just get a new Panny Viera and give this TV to somebody who can properly diagnose and fix the problem. I really don't want to just trash the TV because I know it is still a viable repair for someone experienced and dedicated enough--not to mention, I absolutely adored it and it would break my heart to simply throw it away to a junkyard.


tl;dr I changed the ICs but it didn't help and I don't know any other ways to fix my TV. If somebody wants this TV for free and they live in South Carolina or Georgia to take it away, they can.


----------



## EEngineer

Thanks to Mark and all who contributed to this post! I was able to save my KV-40XBR800!


I thought I may have screwed up the repair when I was just about finished. Because of all the posts saying they had bad solder joints I went back and heated each pin again, but on one of them I went a little too long, I melted the pad. I was using a 25 watt soldering iron and I would guess that I only needed 1-2 seconds of heat to melt the solder, I probably went 4-5 seconds on that joint. To fix it, I then had to solder in a small piece of wire to a nearby capacitor. After reassembling the TV it fired up and is working!


So my only advice, don't keep the soldering iron on the joint too long.


Is anyone keeping track of how many have been fixed? When the problem occurred I really thought I would have to get rid of it and spend $1000 for a new TV, but a $30 fix is all that was needed.


Thanks again!


----------



## rtmach

I've saved 4 so far out of the 8 that I have now.


----------



## hemogoblin

Ok so im having a bit of a problem on my Xbr960. From reading posts of about 3 people who have done it in this thread, getting the board is not the same as it is for others. I currently have the 960 with the back off and sitting glass facing down, and the bottom piece of plastic seems clipped on and cant be removed easily. If I can remove







getting to the bottom of the IC's should be easier. But I cant figure out how to remove the black clips.


Also, It seems like I cant just get the 960 into the service position. At least, I cant figure out how. The people who have actually done it no longer post here. Im getting close to just removing all the wires and unscrewing all parts, but how do I remove the black/metal clips on the end of the board that seem to connect the d-board to the other board?


Please help, im getting close to just throwing this thing out and getting a new tv! Which I dont want to do.


----------



## jasonwebmaui

Aloha










I've been reading this post for several hours & am ready to prepare for the eminent surgery on my 51" Sony. It hasn't died yet, but I want to get everything here before it does.


I'm hoping someone can steer me to the correct pg. # in the forum or let me know what parts I need. I have *6 blinks* too, but my TV is the *Sony KP 51WS 510*. I realize I'm in the wrong forum, but I was not able to find the information in the Rear Projection TV section.


I inquired with a vendor about ordering the 2 MCZ Chips that have been so thoroughly and brilliantly documented in this forum. Unfortunately, he replied that my TV takes different parts.


What are the chips associated with this model called & are they still located on the D-Board.


Mahalo from Maui!


----------



## rtmach

Quote:

Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* 
Ok so im having a bit of a problem on my Xbr960. From reading posts of about 3 people who have done it in this thread, getting the board is not the same as it is for others. I currently have the 960 with the back off and sitting glass facing down, and the bottom piece of plastic seems clipped on and cant be removed easily. If I can remove







getting to the bottom of the IC's should be easier. But I cant figure out how to remove the black clips.


Also, It seems like I cant just get the 960 into the service position. At least, I cant figure out how. The people who have actually done it no longer post here. Im getting close to just removing all the wires and unscrewing all parts, but how do I remove the black/metal clips on the end of the board that seem to connect the d-board to the other board?


Please help, im getting close to just throwing this thing out and getting a new tv! Which I dont want to do.
Those clips are easy to unhook , you need to lift up on the black lips that's on the D board size. they could be a little tight but then you might need to wiggle each side. some have used a screwdriver but I don't . the clips are hinged on the A board so they only disconnect from the D board kind of like a harness plug does. once you pop those clips and remove the harness plugs and screws the board will just lift up with and turn sideways with the wires still attached to the flyback. I just saw your pic and you can't get to the bottom of the board on that model, my hs420 has that bottom , that 's why I learned to get it in the service position.


----------



## cajieboy

hemoglobin, some folks have been flipping their TV's with the glass side facedown, and then sawing through the plastic bottom that you have in your pic. I don't recommend that method, rather you unscrew all the tiny screws holding the back portion of the TV as it sits in normal upright postion. Once the cover is off, you can see the back of the tube, and all the electronic boards beneath. The one you want is on the left w/the flyback on it. The entire tray will slide outward to give you access to the D-Board. This is what is known as "service position". You will then need to unscrew the D-Board, take off some clips, etc. to free it up. Leave the red flyback wire attached. This will give you access to top and bottom of the D-Board for the soldering work.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/19799340
> 
> 
> Ok so im having a bit of a problem on my Xbr960. From reading posts of about 3 people who have done it in this thread, getting the board is not the same as it is for others. I currently have the 960 with the back off and sitting glass facing down, and the bottom piece of plastic seems clipped on and cant be removed easily. If I can remove
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> getting to the bottom of the IC's should be easier. But I cant figure out how to remove the black clips.
> 
> 
> Also, It seems like I cant just get the 960 into the service position. At least, I cant figure out how. The people who have actually done it no longer post here. Im getting close to just removing all the wires and unscrewing all parts, but how do I remove the black/metal clips on the end of the board that seem to connect the d-board to the other board?
> 
> 
> Please help, im getting close to just throwing this thing out and getting a new tv! Which I dont want to do.



Her's some pics I found http://www.piercedgeek.net/tv/fix.html It's for a different issue but it does show those clips and how to unhook them.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonwebmaui* /forum/post/19799822
> 
> 
> Aloha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading this post for several hours & am ready to prepare for the eminent surgery on my 51" Sony. It hasn't died yet, but I want to get everything here before it does.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping someone can steer me to the correct pg. # in the forum or let me know what parts I need. I have *6 blinks* too, but my TV is the *Sony KP 51WS 510*. I realize I'm in the wrong forum, but I was not able to find the information in the Rear Projection TV section.
> 
> 
> I inquired with a vendor about ordering the 2 MCZ Chips that have been so thoroughly and brilliantly documented in this forum. Unfortunately, he replied that my TV takes different parts.
> 
> 
> What are the chips associated with this model called & are they still located on the D-Board.
> 
> 
> Mahalo from Maui!



This link is about a similar tv that you have also, those may be the parts you need. http://www.piercedgeek.net/tv/fix.html


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonwebmaui* /forum/post/19799822
> 
> 
> Aloha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading this post for several hours & am ready to prepare for the eminent surgery on my 51" Sony. It hasn't died yet, but I want to get everything here before it does.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping someone can steer me to the correct pg. # in the forum or let me know what parts I need. I have *6 blinks* too, but my TV is the *Sony KP 51WS 510*. I realize I'm in the wrong forum, but I was not able to find the information in the Rear Projection TV section.
> 
> 
> I inquired with a vendor about ordering the 2 MCZ Chips that have been so thoroughly and brilliantly documented in this forum. Unfortunately, he replied that my TV takes different parts.
> 
> 
> What are the chips associated with this model called & are they still located on the D-Board.
> 
> 
> Mahalo from Maui!



here's a link for service manuals for a lot of sony's, sometimes the manuals will have multiple models listed. they will have the blink codes to get you on the board with the problem. 6 or 7 blinks points to the D board on these CRT's, it may be the same for yours. http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video "Please donate if you can" for this great site.


----------



## jasonwebmaui

Appreciate the help RTmach. That looks like a thorough enough repair illustration/explanation to the get ER done.


This site is way more active, probably because more people own these XRT's. Anyway, I may be back to ask another question or two.


But for now I'm just gonna go get lost on those sites you showed me.


My TV takes about 10-20 clicks to get it to turn on so I'm expecting it to die pretty soon. When I do the repair I'll be sure to update you on the progress.


Again, I really appreciate your help!

Jason


----------



## MiniFoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MiniFoo* /forum/post/19785734
> 
> 
> tl;dr I changed the ICs but it didn't help and I don't know any other ways to fix my TV. If somebody wants this TV for free and they live in South Carolina or Georgia to take it away, they can.



Anybody interested? If I don't get any replies by Friday, the TV's going to a recycling center, unfortunately.


----------



## hemogoblin

Hey guys, I have unscrewed most screws and disconnected the 3 black latches, but there is one screw that I cant get to for the life of me.


Its almost right under the tube, and in between some 'battery' looking things. My stubby phillips cant fit, and I bought an 'L' shaped right angle screw driver that dosent seem to fit either.


If all of these boards are the same, I am assuming you guys know which screw im talking about. If not, I can post a pic.


One step closer to trying to fix my 960.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/19812647
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I have unscrewed most screws and disconnected the 3 black latches, but there is one screw that I cant get to for the life of me.
> 
> 
> Its almost right under the tube, and in between some 'battery' looking things. My stubby phillips cant fit, and I bought an 'L' shaped right angle screw driver that dosent seem to fit either.
> 
> 
> If all of these boards are the same, I am assuming you guys know which screw im talking about. If not, I can post a pic.
> 
> 
> One step closer to trying to fix my 960.



Have you slid the entire chassis out yet? there is a tab on each side, kind of under the corners of the tube that you need to undo, then the whole bottom with all the boards will slide back away from the tube about 2 or 3 inches and give you better access.


----------



## hemogoblin

Thank you to rtmach and everyone who has posted great info. My 960 has been saved and is working great!


Rtmach you were spot on with your links and your advice on pulling those final tabs.


The soldering was actually pretty easy once i got the hang of things. I have only previously soldered two wires together, but after doing this i see that soldering is pretty simple.


Thanks again to all!


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/19820906
> 
> 
> Thank you to rtmach and everyone who has posted great info. My 960 has been saved and is working great!
> 
> 
> Rtmach you were spot on with your links and your advice on pulling those final tabs.
> 
> 
> The soldering was actually pretty easy once i got the hang of things. I have only previously soldered two wires together, but after doing this i see that soldering is pretty simple.
> 
> 
> Thanks again to all!



Congrats!










TLK


----------



## jdre

*minifoo:*Recheck your soldering work and MCZ IC positioning. Make sure the notches are to the left when looking at D board from the top rear. One torn trace will stop the circuit, also check for solder bridges and if a pin missed the socket (if you used the socket). Try putting the TV on Craigslist if no luck giving it away here. I can't make the 1000 mile trip...


----------



## MiniFoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/19828642
> 
> *minifoo:*Recheck your soldering work and MCZ IC positioning. Make sure the notches are to the left when looking at D board from the top rear. One torn trace will stop the circuit, also check for solder bridges and if a pin missed the socket (if you used the socket). Try putting the TV on Craigslist if no luck giving it away here. I can't make the 1000 mile trip...



The ICs were in the correct position and soldered completely correctly without any solder bridges or lifted pads. I completely scrutinized every single trace on the D and A boards with a magnifying glass to check for broken connections, and unfortunately didn't find any. Believe me, I'd been staring at the inside of that TV for over a month and the only conclusion I could come to was getting a new D-board, A-board, or possibly both. For that money, I might as well get a nice new Panny Viera that weighs a quarter of the Wega--which is exactly what I'm doing.


I dropped it off at a recycling facility today. One of the workers there was reckless getting it out of my hatchback (with my "help" because he thought he could pick it up himself even though I told him it was over 200 pounds) and he scratched through the anti-glare coating on the glass. Even if I knew how to get the TV working again, at this point I wouldn't want it back anymore. I'm incredibly sad because I loved that TV a lot, and it had a good run considering the physical stress it went under from moving so often, but it just isn't practical for my living situation. Hell, it never was in the first place, technically. I would have loved to see it go to someone that could have fixed it, but I think that was just a far-fetched pipe dream given my living location in the US.


For a bittersweet ending, however, I pulled out the speakers before I reassembled the case and hauled it to my car. Properly amped, they'll provide a nice sound to my new Viera and serve as a memento to my fallen behemoth. 2003-2010, rest in peace.


----------



## florida288

I haven't reported anything since last March when I was trying to get the hang of soldering. I had previously mentioned that I thought my son might be able to help, but he didn't seem too confident, so I got an also previously mentioned friend to help me. We finally tackled it about sometime last summer. I think I made a mistake having him help me. He was a but rough, I thought, in pulling out the chips before they appeared to me to be fully desoldered. And I thought he was also a little bit sloppy in soldering in the sockets.


Bottom line, the attempt to resurrect my beloved XBR was unsuccessful. Boo hoo. I was so full of hope and so sure that it was going to work. Then all my hopes were dashed. I was so disappointed that I just left it sitting there with its back off for months. And, this sounds crazy, since I can't sleep without the tv on, I've been sleeping on the family room couch for......well, a long time. I really want to sleep in my bed again, so I'm bundling it off for professional repair. Even if it costs about $300, as eslipsedave says, it's worth it to have the tv you want.


I've checked out getting a replacement, a 42" Panasonic plasma for about $600, and that's what I'll do if it can't be fixed.


----------



## chadnliz

I have been reading about this issue of 6 blinking lights and have same issue.

I have a Sony WEGA Trinitron 30in XBR widescreen 1080I unit I bought in 2004. It started to not fire on first try a couple weeks ago now it wont fire at all and I get 6 blinks on standby light.

After reading a bunch of info I wonder now if this can be fixed, parts still for the taking and how much should I expect a repair shop to charge. I know many here can DIY it but I am disabled so simply cant do it and nobody I know is really an electronics guy. There is a place by me called Prism Electronics in Boardman Ohio that seems sort of cryptic about what it may cost even after I suggested I may know what it is, just cant afford to get ripped off on limited income.

If anyone can advise that would be great, I bought a new Panasonic Plasma to replace this and still want to use this in my larger master bedroom.

Please help if you can and thanks! Chad


----------



## OTAJIM

It took most of a day, but I replaced the two ICs. When practicing on a small circuit board, the desoldering braid wasn't great, so I got a desoldering pump from Radio Shack. The pump worked well, especially with the trick of adding more solder if it didn't remove it well the first or second try. Found the black tabs behind the little white wire holders on the left and right side to pull the circuit tray out a few inches for servicing, then unscrewed the D board to stand it up for the desoldering and soldering with sockets and chips. Put everything back together, plugged it in, and it fired up on its own before I even hit the power button. SUCCESS! (I just turned it off and on again to make sure, and yes, all is good). Many thanks to all for the repair instructions, photos, words of encouragement, and the special hints and tricks that made it possible.


----------



## mrevil1

First I want to say..... this is one of the best forums I have ever used. Earlier I posted that I had a successful KV 36HS500 repair, the old 6 and/or 7 blink issue. I got new IC's and sockets and everything seemed fine, unit did the ol on-off-on-off just fine, until the other day. Now I have 3 blinks 1 time only, not a code I believe. Does not power on at all.

I did try switching the IC in the 8002 position. I only bought 3 new ones. Still same 3 blinks. I read in the earlier posts that I should check the solder joints and trace's on the board. I re-flowed the pins, still 3 blinks, re-checked everything still three blinks. When i plug it in after being unplugged for a while i get a good degauss and several relays clicking then three blinks and then nothing.

My question is is it possible to check these IC's before they are installed or only after they are part of the circuit. Also would a random arc to or from or close to the IC in the 6501 position most likely fry it or a component near by? When I was replacing the 6501 with the original D chip I guess that i didn't allow for sufficient de-juicing time and when I was pulling the IC from the socket I noticed a small arc occur close to the right side of the chip opposite side from the alignment notch. This happened after the 3 blink issue started. I have downloaded the schematic for this set and have looked it over extensively but I am unsure about what to check next, I have a good volt / ohm meter just not sure where to start checking where to ground to or if checking resistance what to check between. I am a heavy equipment/auto/truck mechanic and this is my first TV repair attempt. My next step will be to de-solder the sockets and try it with just the chips and if that doesn't work a new D-board. I did check out Sony's site and found the A1300319A D-Board for $125. When I went to add it to cart it said to call, I have a feeling that they will want my board first to repair and send it back to me. Is there a better place to get the D-Board?

Its very frustrating to have it work then so soon go down again, I dont understand how the new chips could fail so quickly they are the DB ones from TSM, I also wonder why I cant seem to get it back to the 6 or 7 blink condition if they are bad. I also checked and this set I believe does not have the third IC on the A board I however could be wrong on this Im sure someone here will know for sure. I will try and take a couple pics of the solder work up close maybe someone will see something I dont.

Anyway thanks in advance for your advice it is much appreciated.


I do really like this set I think it has one of the best pictures of any Ive seen, I would hate to have to scrap it. That and I am tired of the wife and kid looking at me like Im a idiot while Im mumbling incoherently staring in the back of the TV.


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chadnliz* /forum/post/19892747
> 
> 
> I have been reading about this issue of 6 blinking lights and have same issue.
> 
> I have a Sony WEGA Trinitron 30in XBR widescreen 1080I unit I bought in 2004. It started to not fire on first try a couple weeks ago now it wont fire at all and I get 6 blinks on standby light.
> 
> After reading a bunch of info I wonder now if this can be fixed, parts still for the taking and how much should I expect a repair shop to charge. I know many here can DIY it but I am disabled so simply cant do it and nobody I know is really an electronics guy. There is a place by me called Prism Electronics in Boardman Ohio that seems sort of cryptic about what it may cost even after I suggested I may know what it is, just cant afford to get ripped off on limited income.
> 
> If anyone can advise that would be great, I bought a new Panasonic Plasma to replace this and still want to use this in my larger master bedroom.
> 
> Please help if you can and thanks! Chad



Your best bet maybe to see if that shop or another shop will just replace those chips only. You can get the chips on ebay for about $15. Just tell them you only want the chips replaced, no diagnosis just the labor charge to replace. A reasonable charge would be about $150 or less, based on them coming to your house. If that 's too much try finding anybody that you or maybe a family member or friend might know that has any experience soldering, they should have no problem if you show them this forum. Make sure you unplug the set now so it will have time to discharge if you end up using a friend, about 2 days is long enough. It's not that hard to do this as you can see by all the success story's, as long as they follow the correct steps and tips, good luck


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrevil1* /forum/post/19896140
> 
> 
> First I want to say..... this is one of the best forums I have ever used. Earlier I posted that I had a successful KV 36HS500 repair, the old 6 and/or 7 blink issue. I got new IC's and sockets and everything seemed fine, unit did the ol on-off-on-off just fine, until the other day. Now I have 3 blinks 1 time only, not a code I believe. Does not power on at all.
> 
> I did try switching the IC in the 8002 position. I only bought 3 new ones. Still same 3 blinks. I read in the earlier posts that I should check the solder joints and trace's on the board. I re-flowed the pins, still 3 blinks, re-checked everything still three blinks. When i plug it in after being unplugged for a while i get a good degauss and several relays clicking then three blinks and then nothing.
> 
> My question is is it possible to check these IC's before they are installed or only after they are part of the circuit. Also would a random arc to or from or close to the IC in the 6501 position most likely fry it or a component near by? When I was replacing the 6501 with the original D chip I guess that i didn't allow for sufficient de-juicing time and when I was pulling the IC from the socket I noticed a small arc occur close to the right side of the chip opposite side from the alignment notch. This happened after the 3 blink issue started. I have downloaded the schematic for this set and have looked it over extensively but I am unsure about what to check next, I have a good volt / ohm meter just not sure where to start checking where to ground to or if checking resistance what to check between. I am a heavy equipment/auto/truck mechanic and this is my first TV repair attempt. My next step will be to de-solder the sockets and try it with just the chips and if that doesn't work a new D-board. I did check out Sony's site and found the A1300319A D-Board for $125. When I went to add it to cart it said to call, I have a feeling that they will want my board first to repair and send it back to me. Is there a better place to get the D-Board?
> 
> Its very frustrating to have it work then so soon go down again, I dont understand how the new chips could fail so quickly they are the DB ones from TSM, I also wonder why I cant seem to get it back to the 6 or 7 blink condition if they are bad. I also checked and this set I believe does not have the third IC on the A board I however could be wrong on this Im sure someone here will know for sure. I will try and take a couple pics of the solder work up close maybe someone will see something I dont.
> 
> Anyway thanks in advance for your advice it is much appreciated.
> 
> 
> I do really like this set I think it has one of the best pictures of any Ive seen, I would hate to have to scrap it. That and I am tired of the wife and kid looking at me like Im a idiot while Im mumbling incoherently staring in the back of the TV.



Here's a link that still shows this board availible from sony at $195, I was able to get to check out without it asking me to call. you will also need the red flyback wire to the tube , it's about $10 or less. You need a special tool to remove that wire but not to insert it.
https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ec...NFebz05RbLS0Yh 

another option is to watch craigs list for non working sets that have the same board, take the board out and replace the chips and put in your TV, "not an easy job" mainly because of the wires on the flyback. I have a 500 and some of the models that use that board are


KV-32HS500

KV-32HV600

KV-34DRC500

KV-34DRC500

KV-34XBR800

KV-34XBR800

KV-36HS500

KV-36HS500

KV-36HS500

KV-36XBR800

KV-36XBR800

KV-36XBR800

KV-38DRC500

KV-38DRC500

KV-40XBR800

KV-40XBR800

KV-40XBR800

KV-42DRC800


Unless you have board repair exp. you might never figure it out if you caused a short, you have 3 choices the cheapest would be to order some more chips and try again, I get mine from here, he's an authorized sony repair shop. http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-GENUINE-SON...item1e600a35ed 

or you can look on craigs list for a non working model that has the same board or you try to see if sony really has that board in stock. there is a component located in the back left corner of the D board near the flyback, that is very easy to short out, since you had an arc that could do it but it also could be the chips , I would try that first. I did a repair on one of my kv40xbr800's that was about half ass and it would cut off when there was a bright scene, so I couldn't use it in the vivid mode. the set worked for about 6 months then it went back to the 6 blink.Before I replaced the chips I found some specks of solder that came from using the solder pump on some of the circuit lines. I cleaned up the specks and replaced the chips and it works perfect now. So in short a sloppy job can work but not last.


----------



## chadnliz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/19898098
> 
> 
> Your best bet maybe to see if that shop or another shop will just replace those chips only. You can get the chips on ebay for about $15. Just tell them you only want the chips replaced, no diagnosis just the labor charge to replace. A reasonable charge would be about $150 or less, based on them coming to your house. If that 's too much try finding anybody that you or maybe a family member or friend might know that has any experience soldering, they should have no problem if you show them this forum. Make sure you unplug the set now so it will have time to discharge if you end up using a friend, about 2 days is long enough. It's not that hard to do this as you can see by all the success story's, as long as they follow the correct steps and tips, good luck



Thanks so much for the encouraging words, now I just have to dig through 40 odd pages here and hope I find the right parts lol. Thanks again, I may have a friend who can help!


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chadnliz* /forum/post/19898679
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the encouraging words, now I just have to dig through 40 odd pages here and hope I find the right parts lol. Thanks again, I may have a friend who can help!



Here's where I get my chips , never a problem with them and cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...RK:MESINDXX:IT


----------



## mrevil1

Thanks for the reply rtmach, I went ahead and ordered some more IC's. I will give them a try and let you know what happens. I am thinking positively, if nothing else the mumbling has subsided..... for now.


----------



## Ant85

Can anyone tell me where I can buy these IC8002 & IC6501, im having a hard time finding them


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ant85* /forum/post/19910091
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me where I can buy these IC8002 & IC6501, im having a hard time finding them


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...RK:MESINDXX:IT


----------



## robmcd

Hi All,


Although I haven't posted, I am a student of this site, this thread in particular.

Couple of years ago I picked up an 40XBR800 for $200. It worked great for awhile, then the 3 blinks came. I poured over AVS and Agoraquest, learned the fix and did the repair. All worked well.

About a month ago the sporadic power on and 3 blinks hit again. I ordered replacement chips, popped'em in and voila!... 6 blinks. Rechecked everything, took them out, swapped them, fixed what I believe was a bad joint, stood on one leg while facing east and juggled salamanders. Nothin'. Well, except the 6 evil blinks.


Today I removed the board and thought I would post pics of the work, maybe you can determine a problem. I'm certainly no solder guru. But, they were working after the initial fix.


Thanks for your time, and for all the good info on this board.


Best,


RobMc
Attachment 199803 

Attachment 199804


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robmcd* /forum/post/19913136
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Although I haven't posted, I am a student of this site, this thread in particular.
> 
> Couple of years ago I picked up an 40XBR800 for $200. It worked great for awhile, then the 3 blinks came. I poured over AVS and Agoraquest, learned the fix and did the repair. All worked well.
> 
> About a month ago the sporadic power on and 3 blinks hit again. I ordered replacement chips, popped'em in and voila!... 6 blinks. Rechecked everything, took them out, swapped them, fixed what I believe was a bad joint, stood on one leg while facing east and juggled salamanders. Nothin'. Well, except the 6 evil blinks.
> 
> 
> Today I removed the board and thought I would post pics of the work, maybe you can determine a problem. I'm certainly no solder guru. But, they were working after the initial fix.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time, and for all the good info on this board.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> RobMc
> Attachment 199803
> 
> Attachment 199804



It looks like some of the pins aren't soldered solid, "cold solder joint". I also see some scratches across the printed circuit lines, but nothing to bad.I think in that area the connection is only pin to pin. if your lucky you can re flow the joints without adding anymore solder and that might do it. A good test is to hold up the board against a bright light and if you see light coming thru around the pins you know it's not a good connection. Those chips conduct very high voltage and if the solder point is weak, 6 blinks or 3 blinks can happen. you need to use at least a 25 watt solder iron that works good, not much higher, and has a clean tip and clean the tip with a wet sponge after each pin for the best results. good luck


----------



## EEngineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ant85* /forum/post/19910091
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me where I can buy these IC8002 & IC6501, im having a hard time finding them



I got mine here: http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-2-MCZ3001DB-...ht_1727wt_1020 


(2) Chips and sockets. Came in a couple of days.


----------



## robmcd

rtmach: Thanks for the help. I re-soldered all my pins, everything looked good. But, still have the 6. Has anyone here replaced these with good results:

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.

-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.


Any other advice is greatly appreciated.


Best,


Rob


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robmcd* /forum/post/19918397
> 
> 
> rtmach: Thanks for the help. I re-soldered all my pins, everything looked good. But, still have the 6. Has anyone here replaced these with good results:
> 
> -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.
> 
> -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.
> 
> 
> Any other advice is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> Rob



You might have damaged the chips, one or both, are the chips in the correct position? I was in your position before and almost gave up on my first 40. I decided to take out the chips look over the board and clean any specs of solder and then compare the under side of the board to some pics in this thread of a board before repair. I took my time and tried one last time and it worked, no problems since. It will only cost another $15 to try , after that you will be chasing rabbits without being board certified and may end up breaking something else. the good thing is that 6 blinks mean that the problem is on the D board and you might be able to find another on the models I listed earlier from a non working set on craigs list. any xbr800 size will have the same board along with a bunch of others. I paid $100 for my first xbr40 and had to install 2 sets of chips to get it right, with supplies I have about $140 in it and would still put more into it if needed for that picture, I'm always looking on craigs list for sets with the same boards , just in case. I think there was someone in a early post in this thread who may have replaced some of those parts you have listed, not sure of the results.


----------



## robmcd

rtmach: Man, I'm right with you. A year ago, on my first round, I tracked down several 36 inchers for their D boards. I didn't buy anything because my fix worked on the first pass.


That's what has me hammered, all I did this time was pop in new chips. It went straight to 6 blinks.


I did swap chips around, every combination gave the same results. Course, I'm aware that I might have popped loose some solder.


I'm not giving up. The picture on this thing is gorgeous. Gonna pull the board out this week and give it another run. Plus, I have a line on a working 36" with good remote for $50.


Thanks much,


Rob


----------



## joebarrett23

Hello everyone.

My in-laws have a KV27HS420 & have been having problems lately with the set turning off randomly. When I asked they said it would work fine then picture would go black (still has audio) and they would get the red blinking light before the set completely shut down. It powers back up just fine but constantly has this problem.

After reading through this thread I asked how many blinks they were getting & was told 6. I decided to give a look myself by going into the error display. It's showing 1 error for AKB, 1 error for H Stop, & 1 error for Low B.


I've read through most of this thread again & I'm starting to get confused. I know there's no definitive answer but what IC's are the most common problems with the above errors?

Also, I have no soldering experience on circuit boards & not too confident on loosing my virginity on someone else's set







So I may suggest that they purchase the parts & have a shop replace them as someone already mentioned in this thread.


Any help or advice would is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## rtmach

I fixed one just like that and the board has to be put into the service position. There are 2 18 pin chips on the D board that you can easily find when the back is taken off, the chips are only $15, but unless they have a friend that works at a shop they will pay at least $150 maybe less, maybe more. A regular repair shop will ask for a diagnostic charge and a repair charge if you bring it to them. They might be better off getting a new similar size flat screen. I talked with some shops around here before I tried my first repair and they wanted to replace the board rather then take my word on what was wrong for $300+. I would also say that an equal size replacement would need to be at least in the 32-34 inch size for a wide screen to get the same height as they are use to. a 27 inch wide screen will only give them about a 19-20 inch pic in SD. I said this in another post , the parts are cheap so the best idea is to try yourself or find somebody that can solder and have them read this thread and then try. the worst outcome is you only spent $15, if you take it to a shop it might be $300+. at that point a new TV might be a better option. Before attempting a repair leave the tv unplugged for a few days to avoid getting shocked.


----------



## robmcd

Well, I pulled the chip and desoldered and cleaned the sockets. Soldered everything back in and still have the 6 blinks. I think I'll order the other parts from Tri-State and give them a try.


In a hurry, I popped the edge of a chip up with a screwdriver and shorted across these parts (R8047 and JW8035). Not quite sure what they are. Should I replace them? Nothing burned through, just a tiny arc.


Thanks again,


RobMc


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robmcd* /forum/post/19929256
> 
> 
> Well, I pulled the chip and desoldered and cleaned the sockets. Soldered everything back in and still have the 6 blinks. I think I'll order the other parts from Tri-State and give them a try.
> 
> 
> In a hurry, I popped the edge of a chip up with a screwdriver and shorted across these parts (R8047 and JW8035). Not quite sure what they are. Should I replace them? Nothing burned through, just a tiny arc.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> RobMc



Arc's are never good. you could have damage something else besides those parts . after the next chips if it doesn't work I would think about another board. finding those parts could be difficult unless sonyparts keeps them in stock. https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ec...oductSearch.do


----------



## mrevil1

Well I finally got my camera back, took a couple pics. hope they come out. I am not sure about the possibility of a trace on the IC6501 # 3 pin I looked over the board pic on page 15 of this thread and it appears to be bridged with C6518. Is this correct or is it simply that the board on page 15 is damaged and repaired with a small wire? I did also notice that the 7 pin was repaired with a wire, I have been having trouble with this set and the 3 blink then nothing syndrome. I just want to make absolutely sure that i haven't overlooked something before buying a complete D board. If someone could check over my work and let me know what they think, if everything looks Ok then I am assuming it has a another problem. Thanks Dave AKA Mr Evil1


PS I went ahead and removed the sockets and these are new DB series chips from TSM.


The first picture is the one from pg. 15 the other two i just took. I guess they could have been better. If need be I will take some more. Thanks again for your time.


----------



## rtmach




mrevil1 said:


> Well I finally got my camera back, took a couple pics. hope they come out. I am not sure about the possibility of a trace on the IC6501 # 3 pin I looked over the board pic on page 15 of this thread and it appears to be bridged with C6518. Is this correct or is it simply that the board on page 15 is damaged and repaired with a small wire? I did also notice that the 7 pin was repaired with a wire, I have been having trouble with this set and the 3 blink then nothing syndrome. I just want to make absolutely sure that i haven't overlooked something before buying a complete D board. If someone could check over my work and let me know what they think, if everything looks Ok then I am assuming it has a another problem. Thanks Dave AKA Mr Evil1
> 
> 
> PS I went ahead and removed the sockets and these are new DB series chips from TSM.
> 
> The 1st pic of the left chip just does not look right. Are you the only owner? did someone work on that board before you ? The pins that are on that chips right side 3 down and 7 down, should look like the other chip. they should be solidly soldered to the pads around them with no jump wire, unless there is a circuit line that has been damaged. look at post 344 for a pic and you will see that the 3 pin does not have a circuit line coming off it but the 7 appears to have one. The pins still need to be soldered in like the rest and not have an open area around them. if it were mine I would remove the solder from those 2 pins and the bridges and compare to pic in post 344 to see if a jump wire is needed on 7 , then solder them in solid.


----------



## mrevil1

I should have been more clear, the first picture is the one off page 15 of this thread, not my set. The other darker photos are of my set, i was just confused as to the "jumper wires" on that first picture and if I needed to make a bridge on the 3 pin as my board does not have one in that location. I used a solder sucker and wasn't sure if I didn't remove a trace on accident. I am still getting 3 blinks then nothing.


----------



## rtmach

Your pics are hard to see. in the pic in the 344 post you can see the circuit lines around the chip and you can compare. the second pic in that post shows the job done , so you can see if yours looks the same after you finish. I have said this before but it never hurts to use a very bright light with a magnifying glass to make sure you can see any imperfections and traces that will cause problems. I did my first repair without them and ended up with 3 blinks. here's a link to a similar one I use. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TABLE-TOP-CL...item43a4f133d3


----------



## Tony The Chin

My XBR 400 set has the dreaded 7 blinks.


Does anyone know if replacing these chips will ruin my ISF calibration. My set was professionally calibrated a few years back.


----------



## rtmach

I can say that I have 2 kv40xbr800's made the same month and year, I have replaced the chips in one of them, the other is still original. the other difference is the one with original chips was not used much so the tube has had less use. I have them in the same room and have spent a lot of hours trying to get them to look the same and have not been able to. I think the chips may cause a change , but until I do the other set I can't be sure yet. You might want to ask that question in another thread that has post's on the calibration , maybe some other member has the answer, I'd like to know also.


----------



## buckeyeodes

First I want to thank everyone who has provided input to this forum into how to repair this issue. I have read every page, taking notes and looking at all the pictures along the way.


Two months ago, our 7 year old Sony KV-32HS500 which was purchased new, would not always come on. When it would not power up, the standby light would blink either 6 or 7 times. I went to Sony's website and chatted on-line with a support person who had me try the same routines that you find in the operating manual to try to get it running. I had already tried these and they failed. The last of these options was to unplug the set for a minute. When plugging it in, it popped like it was starting but again failed to power up. She then said I needed a repair and recommended and provided contact info for a local repair shop.


Over the next week, the TV would start every other day or so. On one of these occasions, I left it powered on all the time and turned off the cable box to stop the video feed. That worked for a few days until a power blip shut the TV off and I couldn't restart it again.


During this time period, I contacted the repair shop and others and they wanted $50 to $75 just to haul it away to diagnose. They offerred to apply this charge to the repair, but gave me no idea what that total cost would be but most likely over $200. I decided I was going to throw the Sony away and went ahead and ordered a new TV.


I then discovered a forum (the agoraquest site) and found reference to BobF's many links to replacing the two IC MCZ3001DB to fix this issue. I also found a note to use a hair dryer for 2 minutes into the lower right side of the set (facing the tube) to get it restarted. The hair dryer trick worked and I then kept the TV powered on until the new TV arrived.


Then I found this site. I read every page of this forum, taking notes and looking at all the pictures provided. What a wealth of information! I have never soldered anything before, but decided to give it a shot.


I took the TV apart first to get a look at everything. I moved the D board into the service position. To do so, I slid the chassis out about 2" or 3". I removed 8 screws holding down the D board. I unlatched the 4 connections to the A board and had to unplug 4 sets of wires. I took notes and made sketches along the way as I was taking everything apart. I was surprised at how small the ICs are!


I went to Radio Shack and bought a 15W soldering iron, three 18 pin IC sockets, desoldering braid, .032" 60/40 rosin core solder, a practice circuit board and a magnifying glass from Walmart. I ordered the two chips from the ebay site. Total expense for everything was just over $40.


I spent a week practicing soldering and desoldering the extra 18 pin socket into and out of the practice circuit board. This afternoon, I did one more desoldering practice and then did the repair to the TV.


What a thrill to hit the power button and see a picture on that TV again! Thanks again to everyone here for all the info. To those thinking about it, read everything here, take good notes and take your time doing the repair.


We now have a new Samsung 46" LN46C650 (a PC Magazine editor's choice which I highly recommend) in the family room and our rec room in the basement gets upgraded with the refurbished Sony. Thanks again to everyone!


----------



## techshare31

I just picked this Sony out of a neighbor's trash. It's a KV-34HS420. When I plugged it in, I could hear the "charge" sound you normally hear on a CRT firing up. Then, it just goes into the 7 blink loop. I've read many parts of this thread, and other google finds. However, it seems there is an "easy" way and a hard way to try a fix. I have average soldering skills, and was thinking about replacing these two chips for the challenge to see if I could get it working again. However, I don't want to shock myself with the CRT, and I'd like to do this with minimal disassembly/pain if I'm going to pay about $20 for the chips on Ebay just for a gamble. Here is a picture with the cover off. Thanks much for any direct pointers on how I can easily identify and remove/reinstall those two chips!


----------



## coolname74

It is ALIVEEEEE! Looked bad a couple Mondays ago, but now my 960 is back after a chipectomy. I got the 6/7 light Blues one afternoon when I came home from work. Crap!! Well TVs have dropped alot in price, and I heard of sales because of the Superbowl. But, the picture WAS great, and being on a second storie apt, I wasn't looking foward to lugging this +200 Lbs., grey boat anchor downstairs. Then I found this thread. I would like to thank all who wrote on this thread and gave advice, and the pics helped alot!


Just wanted to give back and share what I did:


Removed back cover. Wasn't as bad as I thought. Then...I saw all the TV guts! YOU GOT TO BE F'IN ME! How am I supposed to fix this thing?!? OK, ok, went to read more of the thread. Might as well try it.


Found the D-board location. More reading. There are the chips...I think. Reading. Yes.


Observations: Work slow so you dont bend, unplug, break stuff. Have lots of light and beer...no, thats for after! I decided to remove the D-board for ease of soldering. Before you slide out the chassis, find any wires or connections that need to be unplugged. Take notes and/or mark connections. Note which way the chips are. I removed a small board on the left to get more room to work. I also removed the speaker above the tube for space and light. I left the 3 large wires on the large transformer alone. As you slide out the chassis, look for wires gettin pulled. I had to unplug two connections on the A-board and small twists holding wires. I used large hemostats to unplug small connections and the 4 large gate-like connections between D and A. The four gates need some rocking back and forth to get them loose.



Found and watched this soldering viedo that was a great help: store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101/ 


For de-soldering, I used a station set at 625 degrees. It has a screwdriver like tip that worked great. Keep the tip tinned. I found flux is your friend and I swabed some on before de-soldering. The de-solder vac I was using wasn't doing the job. Well...it was ME not doing the job. I was holding the vac nozzle to the side. You need to melt the solder then put the vac tip right over the pin..suck...gone. Cool. I used a large magnifier lamp on an arm to check sure I got the chips loose, and I didn't melt anything I should't have. The hemostats got the MCZ3001DBs out with a little pull. A bright flashlight behind the board is good to check the holes where the pins were.


I soldered in two sockets. Rember the flux. The pins on the chips needed to be adjusted. I layed them down sideways and rolled them over just enough so the pins were not so wide. Make sure the pins line up to the socket and push firm to seat.


Plugged in the connections I removed. Checked. Re-checked. Power...BAM! TV! As I worked on this set, I rember going to the drugstore with my dad and testing TV tubes at one of those Zenith stands with all the sockets on top. Thanks again!

Juan


----------



## robmcd

Just want to add a wrap-up to my thread.


My saga starts back on page 47. After replacing sockets and chips a year ago, I recently had the 3 blinks return. Installed new chips and it changed to 6 blinks.


I was wary of my original solder job, so I uninstalled and resoldered the sockets. Installed the new chips, again. 6 blinks. I found I could swap in one of the old chips and return to 3 blinks, so it wasn't the chips or soldering.


I started reading about the resistors and capacitors that TSM suggests you replace. A tech told me they are as much of the problem as the chips. So, I replaced them. The old 40" roared back to life.


Thanks for the help.


Best,


RobMc


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robmcd* /forum/post/19981560
> 
> 
> Just want to add a wrap-up to my thread.
> 
> 
> My saga starts back on page 47. After replacing sockets and chips a year ago, I recently had the 3 blinks return. Installed new chips and it changed to 6 blinks.
> 
> 
> I was wary of my original solder job, so I uninstalled and resoldered the sockets. Installed the new chips, again. 6 blinks. I found I could swap in one of the old chips and return to 3 blinks, so it wasn't the chips or soldering.
> 
> 
> I started reading about the resistors and capacitors that TSM suggests you replace. A tech told me they are as much of the problem as the chips. So, I replaced them. The old 40" roared back to life.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> RobMc



Thanks for the link and info about those other parts. That might help some of the guys that have replaced the chips and did not have success . Only $21 for those parts are worth it to get a 40 back, I have 2 40's so I might get some just in case, thanks.


----------



## dustnbone

This thread is an amazing testament to these TVs, so many people willing to take the time to keep these beautiful sets running. I've read through basically the entire thing, and I see alot of combined knowledge here.


I have a KV34HS420, which I picked up off craigslist for a good price. When I power it on, it seems a little slow to focus and then the picture comes up looking very good, maybe a little blurry but still very good. What's strange is that it seems to grow/shrink the picture depending on the brightness of the scene being displayed, brighter bigger, darker smaller. Both vertically and horizontally, quite alot maybe 10% either way. The TV will do this for between 15 and 120 minutes and then quite suddenly the picture goes way out of focus for a couple of seconds, and shuts off with 6 or 7 blinks. It will turn on again after a while and do the same thing, usually much quicker than if it starts cold. I've set the picture to "Pro" and reduced the brightness and contrast settings to about where I have them on my 36XBR800, in the middle. I'm thinking it needs the two ICs changed out, which I'm reasonably comfortable doing, but I'm wondering if the symptoms I describe before it powers down indicate another possible problem that will just cook the new ICs. I don't know a whole lot about CRTs but this seems like a power regulation problem. and maybe the autofocus (?) is trying to compensate for it and that's what I'm seeing. I know there's people here who know alot more than I do, and before I take it apart and start farking with it I should maybe ask around. These TVs are nearly priceless these days, seems silly to throw them away because of anything short of tube failure, and I'm glad there's people with the knowledge and dedication to keep people enjoying them.


Dustin


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dustnbone* /forum/post/19994215
> 
> 
> This thread is an amazing testament to these TVs, so many people willing to take the time to keep these beautiful sets running. I've read through basically the entire thing, and I see alot of combined knowledge here.
> 
> 
> I have a KV34HS420, which I picked up off craigslist for a good price. When I power it on, it seems a little slow to focus and then the picture comes up looking very good, maybe a little blurry but still very good. What's strange is that it seems to grow/shrink the picture depending on the brightness of the scene being displayed, brighter bigger, darker smaller. Both vertically and horizontally, quite alot maybe 10% either way. The TV will do this for between 15 and 120 minutes and then quite suddenly the picture goes way out of focus for a couple of seconds, and shuts off with 6 or 7 blinks. It will turn on again after a while and do the same thing, usually much quicker than if it starts cold. I've set the picture to "Pro" and reduced the brightness and contrast settings to about where I have them on my 36XBR800, in the middle. I'm thinking it needs the two ICs changed out, which I'm reasonably comfortable doing, but I'm wondering if the symptoms I describe before it powers down indicate another possible problem that will just cook the new ICs. I don't know a whole lot about CRTs but this seems like a power regulation problem. and maybe the autofocus (?) is trying to compensate for it and that's what I'm seeing. I know there's people here who know alot more than I do, and before I take it apart and start farking with it I should maybe ask around. These TVs are nearly priceless these days, seems silly to throw them away because of anything short of tube failure, and I'm glad there's people with the knowledge and dedication to keep people enjoying them.
> 
> 
> Dustin



I had a something like that on one of mine but it was from a sloppy repair and specks of solder in the wrong place. It would get blurry and go out of focus then cut off when there was sudden bright scene in the vivid or standard setting. replacing the chips is cheap and may work, but robmcd gave a link to some other parts you might want to replace also. I had talked with a Sony TV tech when I had that problem and he suggested it was those parts also. You can get all the parts for about $40, so it might be worth a try.


----------



## jorgevalles

What a long history with this topic. 48 pages, 1430 responses.

Sorry, I did not read everything, just some selected topics.

Similar stories like mine; Purchased a newer LED LCD 42 inches TV and then tried to fix the KV32HS510. I downloaded the service manual, that included the schematics, troubleshootings, PCB diagram showing component locations, etc. (18megs) and the datasheet for the MCZ3001D which actually did not have anything interesting just some internal logic diagram and the actual purpose of the IC that is a "Pulse Width Modulated Control Circuit"

I am Electronic System Engineer, and my first job 11 years ago were 7 months with Zenith/LG Electronics on the design department, specifically the PCB layout area.


However, I was lazy to actually think of the possible causes of the problem or analyze the circuit, so I just replaced the 2 IC's mentioned here, and then it started working. I tried also to replace the 2 big 1200uF capacitors as those looked not so flat from the top, but because nobody sells that capacitor locally in town and they cost like online around $18USD from the original brand ($9USD the panasonic version), I decided to solder again the originals because they were not inflated excessively and I can save almost $40usd if buying the original brand.


As I said the TV worked fine when I tested, and probably just have it turned on probably 2 or 3 hours. Then I relocate the set, because I had already hanging from the wall my new razorled VIZIO 42", and plugged it on my kids games room. Just 10 minutes later the TV suddently turned off (before it did not have that behavior) and then just showed the 6 or 7 blink codes


----------



## jorgevalles

continuing with the story, as the limit of characters for the post prevented me to continue.


Tonight I'll give it another try. I purchased online for my first attempt the non B version of the IC and replaced IC8002, did not worked, so then I found the IC with the B version locally and the socket, so I replaced the IC6501 and then it worked (until it died again 3 hours later). So what I am going to do is to check first the voltages based on the service manual typical voltages;

IC6501 (MCZ3001DB)

Pin Volt

1 2.8

2 1.8

3 2.2

4 2.8

5 ground

IC8002 (MCZ3001D)

1 2.6

2 1.8

3 2.2

4 2.5

5 ground


I will also replace the IC8002 with a "B" version and a socket. Hopefully it is just the non "B" version that is very sensitive with current TV condition or was slightly damaged when soldered directly to the board. If this is not working I'll give up as my wife is telling me to don't invest more time or money on the TV. I just saw on craiglist a similar TV just by 40 bucks and it is working, and my current investment is 45usd including the new MCZ3001DB I am going to purchase tonight. I'll keep you posted with the results.

(Also I will try to find the e-mail of one of the design engineersof this TV, I visited Sony Tijuana 10 years ago and got some contacts, If my contacts are still working there probably they can tell me what was wrong with this issue







)

Ic8002 reading 5volts on pin 2, ic6501 ok. Swaped the ics same problem. Now i get 4 or 6 or 7 blinks. Reviewed for any solder splashes and everything was ok. Probably i will give it to my father in law if he wants to invest on the repair. I will not invest more resources. Ah, and i couldn't find my old sony designers contacts.


----------



## thich

just to update. its been 7 months since my rechipping, and my kv-34xbr910 is working perfectly. keep up the good service every one. thanks again.


here is my original post


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thich* /forum/post/18985623
> 
> 
> i want to thank each one of you for giving me the info and confidence needed to turn my 34XBR910 into a working TV again. i have very little, to no experience soldering on boards, so i hope this will encourage more to take on the task themselves.
> 
> 
> like so many of the previous posters i had the 6-7 blinking code. after reading this thread i ordered a few mcz3001db IC chips, and got ready. it was pretty much as it was described; remove the back panel, unclip the board, unscrew the board, disconnect all the wires EXCEPT THE BIG RED ONE, desolder the ships, solder the new chips, put it all back together.
> 
> 
> here are the before and after pics. i had started to desolder before i remembered to take pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


----------



## rtmach

Nice pics, they will make a good reference for what it should look like after a good solder job.


----------



## thich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/20032575
> 
> 
> Nice pics, they will make a good reference for what it should look like after a good solder job.



Thanks! i hope some one can use them.


----------



## DrJimW

Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences with the sony 6 or 7 blink problem. Your advice has been instrumental in my own repair on my 34" Sony (KV-34XBR900).


Briefly: my set would not start. When we clicked on the ON button, the standby light would blink slowly, and then begin blinking quickly. The fast blinks were repeating in a 6 or 7 blink sequence.


The hairdryer trick worked for us, i.e. blowing a hairdryer into the back lower right side (as viewed from the front) for about 2 or 3 minutes. That was required every time we wanted to start the set. We did that for two weeks while I read through this thread, and ordered the parts. I ordered my parts from Tri State Module (wwwdotTriStateModuledotcom). Parts arrived in 2 days. I ordered 2 NCZ3001DB chips, 2 18-pin DIP sockets, and the other parts that were suggested by Tri State and Sony: two 1200uf capacitors, and two 0.1 ohm / 2W fusible resistors. My plan was to just install the ICs and see if that fixed the problems, and have the other parts on hand in case it didn't.


The most time-consuming part of the repair was getting the screws out that held the board in place. One screw in particular was underneath the picture tube with no room above it to use a screw driver. So, I used an offset Phillips screwdriver, and the blade of a miniature screw driver set to work it out. Took about 1 hour.


I disconnected 4 cables that ran from the D-board to other parts of the TV, and was able to rotate the board up 90 degrees. I worked on it in this position. I used a 25 watt soldering pencil and desoldering braid. This worked. Soldering in the two sockets, plugged the chips in. I did not install the capacitors or fusible resistors. I put everything back, and turned it on. Worked just fine.


Thanks again for your advice.

Jim


----------



## Tom C

My KD-36XS955 stopped working this past Sunday. It won't come on and the standby light flashes 6 times. I've had it for 6 years and it's been an awesome set.


The wife and I discussed it and we're not going to get it fixed. I can't see tossing it out and reading about the do-it-your-selfers who are fixing the sets I'd like to give it to anyone who wants it. I don't want any money for it. I'm in southern California. You gotta pick it up.


----------



## captiandanny

I'm about ready to give up on this. I got a KV34HS510 from my aunt, 6 blinks problem. I replaced the ICs, still the 6 blinks, I double check my soldering, even desolder and move the chips around, still 6 blinks. I replace the capacitors and resistors that were mentioned earlier, still 6 blinks. I'm sure I've got the chips oriented correctly too, and I've checked my soldering countless times.


No matter what I do, I seem to still get the 6 blinks, what could be wrong here? I don't even get the occasional 3 blink code.


Is there anything else worth replacing on this board that might cause the error? What about the IC on the A-board? I'm frustrated, but this thing is too heavy and bulky to totally give up on.


There's a third IC on the A-board. Is this worth replacing? Has anyone else successfully repaired their set by replacing this?


----------



## sam_val8417

Thank you all for this post/thread. I fixed my Sony 32HS500 and it took me about 30 minutes! I would like to point out that I had NO PRIOR experience soldering or desoldering...


I used the following materials:

1 x RadioShack #64-2060 desoldering iron $11.00

1 x RadioShack #64-022 soldering paste flux $7.00

2 x RadioShack #276-1992 18 pin socket $1.00 (for both)

1 x RadioShack #64-009 solder $10.00

1 x RadioShack #64-2071 soldering iron 40watt $9.00

2 x ebay MCZ3001DB chips w/ free shipping $24.00


TOTAL: $61.00


Keep in mind I had to buy EVERYTHING as it was my first time doing anything like this. Thanks to the pictures and guidance on this thread, I had a successful fix that got rid of the 6 and sometimes 7 blinks on my tv set. Just had to be careful on seeing the correct chip orientation and LOOK OUT FOR THOSE PINS THAT ARE NOT SOLDERED!!


I was ready to dump my tv but decided to try this cheap fix before buying a new one, and honestly, I prefer this tv over any LED's out there... so I am EXTREMELY HAPPY to get my tv back up and running. Thank you everyone!!


----------



## rtmach

Another good repair, it really is not that hard if the chips are the only problem. I think more than 90% of the 6-7 blink sets have been fixed in this thread by replacing just the chips with carefully following the steps listed in a lot of the post's here.


----------



## jeneral

Well, I tried replacing the 2 IC for my parent's TV with little success (they were getting 6 blinks). After the IC replacement it appeared to be working correctly, but after half an hour the TV shut itself off and I was getting 7 blinks. Unplugging and plugging the unit back in can sometimes bring it back but only for a few seconds before it shuts off again. I imagine when it cools off it may work for a short time again.


The only step I didn't follow was using sockets for the ICs. I had a couple of 20-pin sockets lying around but I was leery of using cheap sockets with a high-voltage device. I'm quite comfortable soldering and I have quite a bit of experience. I used a 15-watt iron for soldering and a 30-watt for desoldering (with braid and flux).


Any ideas what could have gone wrong?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeneral* /forum/post/20172891
> 
> 
> Well, I tried replacing the 2 IC for my parent's TV with little success (they were getting 6 blinks). After the IC replacement it appeared to be working correctly, but after half an hour the TV shut itself off and I was getting 7 blinks. Unplugging and plugging the unit back in can sometimes bring it back but only for a few seconds before it shuts off again. I imagine when it cools off it may work for a short time again.
> 
> 
> The only step I didn't follow was using sockets for the ICs. I had a couple of 20-pin sockets lying around but I was leery of using cheap sockets with a high-voltage device. I'm quite comfortable soldering and I have quite a bit of experience. I used a 15-watt iron for soldering and a 30-watt for desoldering (with braid and flux).
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could have gone wrong?



Perhaps you have a less than perfect solder joint? Have you tried re-flowing the solder on all your new joints?


Did you disconnect any connectors as part of the repair? You might want to disconnect and reconnect all of those.


Good luck!


----------



## Finitedream

Another kv-34hs510 saved from the dump







took 40 minutes start to finish.


----------



## shumwadu

Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here. It took me 5 hours, but I was able to fix my 30XBR910 by replacing the two chips. I haven't used a soldering iron much since 9th grade electronics class and the de-soldering was very tedious. I used sockets and the soldering went much faster. The results are definitely worth it, especially considering it cost me almost nothing. And to think I was about to drop $950 on a new LED TV!


----------



## HWBob

Hello,


I have a Sony KV-32HS500 with 6 blinks that won't turn on. I am preparing for the IC replacement. Did any of you use a heat-sink while performing the surgery? Is it necessary?


Thanks,


Bob


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HWBob* /forum/post/20368311
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have a Sony KV-32HS500 with 6 blinks that won't turn on. I am preparing for the IC replacement. Did any of you use a heat-sink while performing the surgery? Is it necessary?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Bob



If by " heat sink" you mean the white paste used for insulation for cpu's etc , than no it's not needed.


----------



## Th0r

Greetings AVS forum,


I successfully socketed and replaced the chips in my KV-34HS510 in August of 2009... thanx to this thread. My posts are back around page 25.


However, I'm now back to 6 blinking lights, no picture (has been stubborn coming on for the past week or so).


Seems like the chips I put in (MCZ3001DB, IC, Shindengen) lasted for just shy of 2 years.


I've just ordered replacements (with spares) and will try putting in new chips.


I just figured I'd post this update because I haven't seen too many posts in this thread about chip life after the repair.


----------



## stigw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eclipsedave* /forum/post/13803933
> 
> 
> photos 11-14



Thanks to all the people who contributed to this thread.














I have the same problem and will be taking my set apart very soon to attempt this fix.


That one picture threw me for a loop for a second. It looks like you are holding a piece of the board in your hand....


----------



## resevil83

so my friend has a Sony KV-32HS510 with the 6 or 7 red blinking lights. I ordered the chips discussed on page 4 of this thread. While waiting for the chips to arrive my friend pressed the power button repeatedly for a long period of time. He then heard a loud "boom" from the tv. He said there was no smoke, and I have not opened up the tv yet. Can anyone tell me what he did? I'm assuming I will have to order more parts now because something popped/exploded, I have no idea.


----------



## vadude54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Th0r* /forum/post/20375294
> 
> 
> Greetings AVS forum,
> 
> 
> I successfully socketed and replaced the chips in my KV-34HS510 in August of 2009... thanx to this thread. My posts are back around page 25.
> 
> 
> However, I'm now back to 6 blinking lights, no picture (has been stubborn coming on for the past week or so).
> 
> 
> Seems like the chips I put in (MCZ3001DB, IC, Shindengen) lasted for just shy of 2 years.
> 
> 
> I've just ordered replacements (with spares) and will try putting in new chips.
> 
> 
> I just figured I'd post this update because I haven't seen too many posts in this thread about chip life after the repair.



I was also on here back in 2009 and have the same set as you. I replaced the IC's and used sockets and everything worked fine until a couple months ago when I started getting the 6 blink problem. I ordered 2 new IC's and put them in but it didn't change anything so I put the 2 IC's I installed in 2009 back in. I have found that if the temperature in the room is in the 70's it comes on okay but if lower I can heat the D board with my hair dryer and it comes on okay. I guess some part on the D board is heat sensitive but I don't know which yet. I have already reheated the solder joints and that didn't help either. Try heating your D board and see if it helps. I got the idea from someone else a few pages back on this forum.


----------



## Th0r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vadude54* /forum/post/20391690
> 
> 
> I was also on here back in 2009 and have the same set as you. I replaced the IC's and used sockets and everything worked fine until a couple months ago when I started getting the 6 blink problem. I ordered 2 new IC's and put them in but it didn't change anything so I put the 2 IC's I installed in 2009 back in. I have found that if the temperature in the room is in the 70's it comes on okay but if lower I can heat the D board with my hair dryer and it comes on okay. I guess some part on the D board is heat sensitive but I don't know which yet. I have already reheated the solder joints and that didn't help either. Try heating your D board and see if it helps. I got the idea from someone else a few pages back on this forum.



Very interesting.


I'll see what happens when I replace the chips.


I'll tell you what though.. this is making it VERY hard for me not to pull the trigger on a new panasonic plasma.


----------



## rtmach

I'm happy to say I was able to repair another 40xbr today after the 6 blink problem on friday. This was my 2nd 40 that I picked up at a thrift store that was in mint cond for $200 , which included the stand. It still had the original chips. I have it in the same room as my other 40xbr and was always trying to get the colors and tint the same , and can say now that the difference in tints is closer than before now that they both have the same DB chips. the original chips gave the set a more reddish tint, I spent at least 20 hours in the service menu 's trying to get them to match up and finally gave up. I was waiting for the day I would have to replace them and now see the difference. I saw in an earlier post a question about the settings after replacing the chips and this would seem to confirm that there is a little difference in the DB's as far as tint. The way I confirmed this was to take the color control setting in the menu and turn the color all the way off, now both sets are close to the same tint, before the set with the old chips had a reddish tint. I will still need to go into the service menu again and see how close I can get them, but just by replacing the chips they are a lot closer than before it went out.


Good Luck to all who are keeping these great sets alive!


----------



## ShinobiFist

What parts do I need to fix the six blinking lights on my KD-XS30955? I really don't want to get rid of this bad boy. Had it since 2004..


----------



## rtmach

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT 


If the model # is KD-30XS955 these are the ones.


----------



## sam_val8417




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ShinobiFist* /forum/post/20416964
> 
> 
> What parts do I need to fix the six blinking lights on my KD-XS30955? I really don't want to get rid of this bad boy. Had it since 2004..



I fixed my Sony 32HS500 and it took me about 30 minutes! I would like to point out that I had NO PRIOR experience soldering or desoldering...


I used the following materials:

1 x RadioShack #64-2060 desoldering iron $11.00

1 x RadioShack #64-022 soldering paste flux $7.00

2 x RadioShack #276-1992 18 pin socket $1.00 (for both)

1 x RadioShack #64-009 solder $10.00

1 x RadioShack #64-2071 soldering iron 40watt $9.00

2 x ebay MCZ3001DB chips w/ free shipping $24.00


TOTAL: $61.00


Keep in mind I had to buy EVERYTHING as it was my first time doing anything like this. Thanks to the pictures and guidance on this thread, I had a successful fix that got rid of the 6 and sometimes 7 blinks on my tv set. Just had to be careful on seeing the correct chip orientation and LOOK OUT FOR THOSE PINS THAT ARE NOT SOLDERED!!


I was ready to dump my tv but decided to try this cheap fix before buying a new one, and honestly, I prefer this tv over any LED's out there... so I am EXTREMELY HAPPY to get my tv back up and running. Thank you everyone!!


----------



## ShinobiFist

Rtmach and Sam, thank you on the links for the chips. I have all the tools except the 18pin socket you mention, Sam. Going to order this parts ASAP! Thanks to everyone once again. I'll post once I have my badboy running again. I forgot to mention this. I haven't open my set yet, but I assume when I get the pair of chips I replace both of them, correct?


----------



## rtmach

may as well replace both, it 's a 50/50 chance replacing just one. I never use sockets because of the high voltage , but others do. I got that advice from a sony repair tech. I find it easier just to put the board in the service position and replace rather than use a chip puller and try to push another one back in, of course I have fat fingers and shaky hands, good luck


----------



## chuckecheez

Just fixed a 32HS420 with the 6-7 blink problem by replacing the 2 MCZ3001 chips. But now getting sort of a light green tint over entire screen when it should be black. Mostly noticable when no input signal; can hardly tell when a picture is present. Anyone ever heard of this? Don't remember it doing this before; was solid black on no input.


----------



## SDchargers

I have a 40XBR-800 and I'm just waiting to receive my replacement ICs in the mail. In the meantime I decided to take apart my TV already and do some vacuuming and cleaning before I do any actual work on the boards. The set has been unplugged for about a week and a half.


After reading posts here on putting the D board in the service position for desoldering and soldering I am still uncertain about which wires are absolutely necessary to remove. Is it really necessary to remove the anode (red), focus (red) and the G2 (white) wires if my TV has been unplugged for this long?


I've read the G2 wire carries about 5000v, the focus 300-600v and the anode carries up to 32000v. What's the safest way to unplug these wires without zapping myself? Obviously I'll need rubber gloves but I just want to cover my bases.


----------



## rtmach

On the 40 I did last , I left it unplugged for 2 days to discharge and only unplugged 3 wire harness plugs and the bridge connectors to get in the service position. You do need to lift the clips on each side to slide the chassis back to get room to work. But, do not disconnect the anode wire or any other wires that are connected to fly back! I done 6 of these repairs and have never had any shocks, but if your still concerned wear rubber gloves or use a voltage detector stick like I do.


----------



## SDchargers

^


Thank you for saving me a world of headache.


----------



## doveman

I successfully repaired my XBR800 back in 2008, thanks to the help of people on this thread, by replacing both IC8002 and IC6501 (and fitting sockets for them whilst I was at it).


Over the last few days, it's gone back to 7 blinks but then turning on if I press the power button again. Until this morning, when it decided it wasn't going to come on at all.


So I took the back off and replaced IC8002. After that, the set came on first time, so I was quite chuffed. However, after putting the set back together and in position, it stopped working again, this time with 6 blinks!


So off came the back again and I replaced IC6501 as well, but this hasn't helped and it's still giving 6 blinks and I'm at a bit of a loss now, so if anyone's got any other suggestions I'd be grateful as I'm really not in the position to buy a new set.


----------



## fltundra

I was successful repairing my 6/7 blink 34xbr960 that i have had since 04. I ended up getting the MCZ3001db's from bdent.com and i also picked up Machined Pin Sockets, big difference from cheap regular ones. I could not be happier today as i am watching the evening news, all for less then 20 bucks. Thanks to all the great people on this site!


----------



## doveman

Well done fltundra. It's a great feeling isn't it, knowing that with a little effort, you've not only saved yourself having to spend a lot of money on a new TV, but also kept a TV with a better picture than most new TVs anyway


----------



## fltundra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doveman* /forum/post/20479338
> 
> 
> Well done fltundra. It's a great feeling isn't it, knowing that with a little effort, you've not only saved yourself having to spend a lot of money on a new TV, but also kept a TV with a better picture than most new TVs anyway



Yes it is! Thanks


----------



## doveman

Having looked a bit more closely, I can now see that one of the 1200uf 250v capacitors has blown, so I've ordered two of those and will replace them.


I'm hoping that's all that needs doing, but I'm wondering if a) it might have damaged something else and b) if it might indicate some other component could be faulty?


----------



## SDchargers

woohoo, all done replacing IC8002 and IC6501 for my 6 blink standby problem! The most solder experience is soldering my RC car batteries. It was awesome to see my TV come back to life again.


I'm trying to get to the service menu to adjust my vertical, horizontal and geometrical alignment. Can someone point me in the right direction on accessing this menu? I googled and searched this forum for a few hours now and still can't find the procedures.


----------



## Klutzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SDchargers* /forum/post/20496191
> 
> 
> woohoo, all done replacing IC8002 and IC6501 for my 6 blink standby problem! The most solder experience is soldering my RC car batteries. It was awesome to see my TV come back to life again.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to get to the service menu to adjust my vertical, horizontal and geometrical alignment. Can someone point me in the right direction on accessing this menu? I googled and searched this forum for a few hours now and still can't find the procedures.



This thread helped me alot in the past:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=827058 


And this site has a whole list of manuals:

http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video


----------



## doveman

Well having looked even MORE closely, I decided the capacitor wasn't blown, so I'll return those.


I don't really know what the problem was, but I've got it working again










I took the chips out again (these were the replacements that I fitted the other day) and checked the underside of the sockets, which looked fine and didn't appear to have any dry joints, but I re-flowed them anyway. After replacing the chips, it still didn't work. I then spent some time trying to work out how to test the voltages to try and track down the problem but this was made pretty much impossible by the fact that as soon as the diagnostic mode kicks in and the light starts blinking the power gets cut to the D-board!


Anyway, I decided to replace one of the chips again, which caused a few more relays to click than before, so then I replaced the other one as well and it all started working again. I don't know if the first pair I tried were bad before I fitted them (unlikely, as the TV worked briefly after replacing IC8002), or if they'd somehow got damaged after fitting them but whilst it would have been nice to know what the problem was, it's more important that my set's working again. I took the opportunity to re-focus it as well (which I should have done ages ago) and it looks a lot better and I might even be able to read the text in games at 720p now










My friend will be quite relieved as he was wondering what we were going to do without a TV to play Xbox on when he comes over tomorrow


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doveman* /forum/post/20496538
> 
> 
> Well having looked even MORE closely, I decided the capacitor wasn't blown, so I'll return those.
> 
> 
> I don't really know what the problem was, but I've got it working again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the chips out again (these were the replacements that I fitted the other day) and checked the underside of the sockets, which looked fine and didn't appear to have any dry joints, but I re-flowed them anyway. After replacing the chips, it still didn't work. I then spent some time trying to work out how to test the voltages to try and track down the problem but this was made pretty much impossible by the fact that as soon as the diagnostic mode kicks in and the light starts blinking the power gets cut to the D-board!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I decided to replace one of the chips again, which caused a few more relays to click than before, so then I replaced the other one as well and it all started working again. I don't know if the first pair I tried were bad before I fitted them (unlikely, as the TV worked briefly after replacing IC8002), or if they'd somehow got damaged after fitting them but whilst it would have been nice to know what the problem was, it's more important that my set's working again. I took the opportunity to re-focus it as well (which I should have done ages ago) and it looks a lot better and I might even be able to read the text in games at 720p now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend will be quite relieved as he was wondering what we were going to do without a TV to play Xbox on when he comes over tomorrow



Sometimes you just have to keep trying , good work. Did you adjust the focus by turning the screw on the fly back? One of my 40's is a little out of focus , because it's been dropped hard enough to cause a crack in the cabinet. Can you explain how you did that job, thanks


----------



## doveman

Thanks.


Yes, I did adjust the focus knob with a screwdriver but also adjusted the Dynamic Quadrapole Focus settings in the Service menu as well.


I basically just followed the very good two part instructions here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...12#post5774412 


I don't have a Memory card that fit's the TV, so I just used my PC connected via DVI to show the patterns (attached to the linked thread), although I guess I could have used my Xbox or Xbox360 via component. I only used the 1080 images, which I think was right but I might check how the 480 images look.


The DQF settings seem to be shared amongst all the inputs and 720p/1080i mode, so I only had to copy them once to SD/480p mode (which I don't ever use anyway).


----------



## rtmach




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doveman* /forum/post/20497355
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Yes, I did adjust the focus knob with a screwdriver but also adjusted the Dynamic Quadrapole Focus settings in the Service menu as well.
> 
> 
> I basically just followed the very good two part instructions here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...12#post5774412
> 
> 
> I don't have a Memory card that fit's the TV, so I just used my PC connected via DVI to show the patterns (attached to the linked thread), although I guess I could have used my Xbox or Xbox360 via component. I only used the 1080 images, which I think was right but I might check how the 480 images look.
> 
> 
> The DQF settings seem to be shared amongst all the inputs and 720p/1080i mode, so I only had to copy them once to SD/480p mode (which I don't ever use anyway).



thanks for the info and link. I only have some blurring in the very bottom middle and only notice it when there is text, so I might not want to mess with it unless it get's worse. I did a quick adjustment in the service menu and that got it back in focus, thanks


----------



## dougchouston

I replaced IC 8002 and IC 6501 per the suggestions.TV still will not turn on. Get blinking standby light. Any other Ideas?? I would like to save this HD CRT TV. Thanks.


----------



## dbsimms63

Well looks like I'm in the same boat with alot of folks. I just got my KV-34XBR800 working again through its DVI input, moved and the DVI wouldn't give a picture. That was 2 months ago, replaced the board the DVI is on, fired up and had a pictured. Now this morning, tried to turn it on, and the stand by light was giving me 4 blinks, which after some reading here points toward the IC5004 on the D board. Is this integrated circuit the same as the IC6501 and IC8002? Where can I find a place to order these, figured I would put in sockets and replace all 3 while I'm there. If they are all the same IC, why don't they have the same number? that's the only confusing part for me. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## dbsimms63

Well, went home last night, unplugged the TV, waited a few minutes, plugged it back in and it came on, had TV all night. Get up this morning, turn it on, nothing, but now I am getting 6 blinks of the stand by light instead of 4. What should I do replace all the ICs?


----------



## rtmach

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT 

these are the ones and you should replace both chips at the same time.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbsimms63* /forum/post/20509573
> 
> 
> Well looks like I'm in the same boat with alot of folks. I just got my KV-34XBR800 working again through its DVI input, moved and the DVI wouldn't give a picture. That was 2 months ago, replaced the board the DVI is on, fired up and had a pictured. Now this morning, tried to turn it on, and the stand by light was giving me 4 blinks, which after some reading here points toward the IC5004 on the D board. Is this integrated circuit the same as the IC6501 and IC8002? Where can I find a place to order these, figured I would put in sockets and replace all 3 while I'm there. If they are all the same IC, why don't they have the same number? that's the only confusing part for me. Any help will be greatly appreciated.



The IC6501 and IC8002 labels denote the _location_ on the circuit board. But the same MCZ3001D ICs are used in both locations. I'm not familiar with the IC5004. (My KV-36XBR400 only had two of those ICs on the D-Board.) You can find the ICs at many different places online. I bought mine on ebay. Just run a google search for "MCZ3001D". They should cost around $6 each. There is a tremendous amount of helpful advice in this thread. Good luck!


Bob


----------



## tmclain55

Another Sony saved from the landfill. I want to thank Mark Goetz for starting this thread and especially thank eclipsedave for the excellent pictures and description of changing these two IC chips. My set was new in 2003 and after many hours of use over the years exhibited the typical 6 or 7 blinks of the standby LED. Unplugging for a day or two would let it be turned on OK, until it was turned off.


The information from eclilpsedave on 05-05-08 was still perfect to do the job. Sliding the set on carpet with moving disks made the job easier than I expected. Even overhead soldering while lying on by back was a breeze. I used a 30W pencil tip iron and solder sucker with a flux pin. Changing the first IC8002 fixed the problem but I changed the other so that both are socketed with new chilps. Thanks again for all the advise from everyone for making this job a success!!


----------



## PHILLYGOAT

I am really excited to have found this forum. I hope to try the IC replacement on a SONY 34" KV-34HS510 in the next couple of days. I have played with a lot of stuff, but never a tv. Always wanted a SONY and I was offered this one for free, if this works it would be SWEEEET!!







I'll let you know how this goes. I already ordered the parts and popped the back off. The whole board assy pulls out pretty far without disconnecting anything. Wish me success.


Thanks!


----------



## PHILLYGOAT

Man, that was easy!!!







I bought a desolder gun at Radio Shack for $15 and it sucked the solder right off. TV powered up and I just got done watching American Graffiti. GREAT NIGHT! Thanks to this board & all the great posts.

I will have to read some more to see if I can dial it in even better.


----------



## Wayne613

Just another general thanks for this thread´s info.


Got my KV-34XBR800(service manual link attached) fixed right up. I do have a moderate amount of experience, and electronics knowledge however. And in my case just replacing the IC´s wouldn't have been enough.


Symptoms where:

Try to come on and fail.

Then gives 6 blink diagnostic.

When it failed completely, the picture would shrink and then expand in split second on high white scenes from darker ones(Originally it didn't have this issue when it first cut out upon trying to turn it on and gave the diagnostic flashes).


As in a previous post 1 of the 2 big caps was toast in addition to at least 1 of the IC´s having issues. So pulled the board, replaced both IC´s, and both caps. I tested the fusible resistors with my multimeter, which were fine.


The caps might have been my own fault however, as I used the diagnostic mode to get the TV to power up, and left it on until it finally failed completely a couple weeks later. Having of course bookmarked this, the service manual for my unit, and the place to purchase the replacement parts beforehand. =)


3 days now without any issues.


General steps done:

1. Unplug, waiting many hours to hopefully discharge everything.

2. Pull/unscrew back cover on tv stand.

3. Slid boards back, pulled all connectors aside from FBT and connecting motherboard leads going to the D board(and any in the way of moving the entire bottom panel out far enough to remove the D board).

4. Discharging anode against grounding strap using an insulated screwdriver with a wire lead wrapped around it at the mid-point, then wrapping the other end to the grounding strap on the TV. The service manual warns against this (screwdriver under the boot), but so long as you're careful, using no real force, and just barely making contact with the anode, slipping the screwdriver just barely under to make contact I don't see any harm being done. I'd personally rather risk damaging the specialized coat on the rubber boot and the anode itself, than getting hit with 35kilovolts no matter how low the amperage behind it. To give a gauge of what this would be like, think 3 stun guns at the same time for a split second. It can, and has, killed by stopping the heart.

5. Following service manual guide to pull anode(Large red 35.5kV lead).

6. Clipped the smaller red and white FBT leads. Then pulled the motherboard connectors up.

7. Unscrewed, then pulled the D board completely.

8. Using the screwdriver/wire again, this time with a pipe I knew had an earth ground, touched the anode, and cap hot points just to be sure anything that could FUBAR me was discharged before putting this on the bench.

9. Then of course de-soldered using a spring loaded solder sucker for the pins and the bladed caps(capacitors) and a heat controlled soldering station at around 630 or so.

10. Slapped in the 18pin IC sockets, soldered with silver bearing solder(.015 diameter).

11. Soldered in the 2 replacement caps using standard rosin core solder.

12. Put the IC´s in noting the dimple, which indicates pin 1.

13. Did my best to verify what I did, noting polarities for caps and orientation for the IC's, as well as their pin alignment.

14. Striped small bit from each end of the FBT smaller red, and white leads, primed both ends with standard solder again.

15. Put heat-shrink tubing over one end of each wire.

16. Replaced D board back into unit and re-hooked everything, including the anode.

17. Soldered the 2 cut leads back together using portable soldering iron, covered soldered section with the tubing, shrank with lighter and re-affixed all cords to where they were before, roughly.

18. Gave both sections a once-over, and slid the bottom section back into place.

19. Put cover back on with just a few screws, just in case.

20. Plugged it back in, and bingo...came right on right away.


I like fixing things just once, so I went though the extra trouble. The one cap stood out, as they´re intentionally scored at their top to expand out if they get enough strain. I instantly noted 1 of mine having a significant bulge on it (they should be flat, in most cases even slightly concave). Also note the replacement caps are usually not the bladed end ones, so note the polarity of where you are placing them and of course de-solder the standard pin-through points for them. I say this as they will not have the exact same orientation using the standard pin holes from the bladed ones.


Of course this was in addition to cleaning everything out once I had the unit properly discharged, as I haven´t cleaned it in 9 years. It was quite disgusting. Vacuum, then compressed air for everything smaller.


This cost me $40 total to fix, and about 3 hours worth of my time used total I think. Only that high because I wanted to make sure to do it right and get everything back to as near as when I bought it as possible.


No color, tint, or focus issues. Looks better now than it did years previous, as I´m sure at least 1 of those IC´s has been failing for some time.


Thanks!


Images:

1. Board pulled, components out (IC´s and caps). Note the 2 factory capacitors out on my desk, they don´t look abnormal from this photo or even at a distance, but if you put/run your finger along the top the one is significantly raised:
 


2. Back of board, new caps in, IC's blank(still waiting on chips at the time).
 


3. IC's in. Sorry, not very easy to see, but all are properly soldered. Bad Iphone shot.








 


4. And the completed photo's, and a parting shot of it back in the unit, sorry it was too dark in the room for a decent iphone picture.


----------



## leiff

My 32HS500 manufactured in '03 I bought used 5 years ago for $500 is giving 6 blink stanby and won't turn on. I hear the rhump sound as it turns on and then clicks but no picture. I called a local repair shop and described the 6 blink which he recognized as high voltage error. He said he was %90 sure he could fix it for under $200 with in house repair. I assume he will first try replacing the two ics's from D-board? Is there a chance of these same ICe's failing again anytime soon? If so, I should like to observe my repairmans work so that I feel I could do it myself later if need be. What should I be aware of incase I fall under his %10 chance it's not an easy fix?


----------



## 74f100

Probably will replace the chips. That's not a bad price for in-home work.


----------



## leiff

For $2oo, he resolderd a single chip and got tv working. Was it lazy for him to not swap out the second chip that people here are talking about? It could fail too before to long right? He also put some patterns on the screen and tried to adjust geometry settings from the service menu that i had mesed up before. Unfortunantly now geometry is much worse and l am very unhappy!


----------



## CRTGAMER

*KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips*


Great forum, I joined a few days ago.I have the same issues of 6 to 7 blinks. Unplug for a few hours, hair dryer trick then plug back in for a maybe turn back on. I finally just left it on for about three weeks. Since my cable box puts out a black signal when off, the TV input logo stays off. Had a brain fart last week and turned off the TV, the hair dryer trick no longer works. I get the DeGauss sound then the seven lights, sometimes six with a few relay clicks.

*Sony Memory Slot*

My HD CRT has the memory card slot for reading JPGs from a Sony Memory Stick. It reads the older non pro 128 mb Magic Gate cards. The strange thing is during the initial seven light flash, the memory card slot LED lights up for a second.

*Perhaps the memory card is accessed for a firmware update?*










I really love my Wega, an uncommon HD CRT that is also a 4:3 screen, perfect for all my Retro Game Consoles. The HD has been unplugged since Tuesday evening, I'll give one last try tonight before I resort to the repair. I am going with the 18 pin IC Sockets since there is a chance the chips might fail again at a later date.

*I am ready with my Wega Landfill Prevention Kit*

I have a 30 watt pencil iron and the good lead solder, bought before OSHA ruined all the current game consoles with lead free solder.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips*

*Note: Anyone who does this repair please include your model number as I did above. Also the identifying text showing which chips are on each board BEFORE THE REPAIR, either MCZ3001D or MCZ3001DB chips.


This makes it easy to see which models are worked on and which hold up the longest before a repeat repair.*


No luck on the powering up the TV after sitting for a couple of days unplugged, so the Repair is a go. I had my neighbor give me a hand moving the HD Tube, 200 freeken pounds! I staged a dresser in front of the wall unit, lucky a very close matched height. Slid the TV out and disconnected the eight inputs and audio out to the receiver. Wrapped tape around each cable bundle and labeled to avoid guesstimating later which cable goes where. A wide mix of DVI converted to HDMI, Composite, SVideo and Component hooked up to various Game Consoles, Laser, DVD, CED and VHS. Even a couple RF inputs for Analog portion of the Digital HDMI cable box and Atari 5200.

*New HDs no longer have SVideo. Component also seems to be going away, most only have one input. HDMI taking over, seen a lot of newer HDs with four HDMI inputs.*


My fireplace has a nice 13 inch step, so we spun the HD around and set it there. Even though the TV is bigger in depth, most of the weight is at the tube. I plan on pulling the PCB after letting it sit over the weekend for discharge. No way will I try to discharge with a screwdriver and risk damaging any capacitor from the surge.


I pulled the back cover off and confirmed both chips are the older *MCZ3001D* chips and soldered in. Took the cover outside and brushed off all the dust, will do the PCB after the discharge wait session. I checked that I can moved the PCB back slightly by releasing the latch then pushed forward again. The A Board has no Chip, so there is only the two on the D Board to worry about.

*Looks tight but does the black plastic for various inputs need to be removed?*



















Now the trick is to be patient and let her sit for a couple of days. Cover temporarily back in place so my pet cat won't get curious and get fried.


There was talk about the IC sockets might be unreliable due to high voltage. The voltage and amp draw can't be that high for the chips, seems the contacts and legs could handle it. Because of some owners having to do the repair a second time, I am definitely going with sockets.


I'll post my results. If successful I'll write an entire Guide, maybe also make a one page word document attachment. An easy printout to pass on to the local Thrift Stores keeping the WEGA CRT around as long as possible.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips*



Dusted out everything inside with a soft brush today. The plugs and PCB were actually a breeze to remove. I left the Flyback Transformer and power lead from the PCB to the back of the tube attached. Got the old chips desoldered and soldered in the new ICU sockets, then plugged in the replacement revision B chips. Plugged in and heard the TV fire up. The tube is still facing the fire place door so I'll have to wait till I can spin it around to confirm. Tomorrow, my neighbor will help me lift the 200 pound monster back in place. Optimistic this baby will work, I'll write a complete guide once everything is done.










For now enjoy a few pics, where's Waldo and find the crappy chips.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips*

SONY WEGA HD CRT IS FIXED!


A lot of gaming catchup last night, had to get my fix after no console gaming for a week!


When I plugged the HDTV back in, it worked beautiful! I really want to keep this rare TV running as long as possible. Not only because it is a beautiful CRT but a *HD CRT 4:3*. The best TV for Retro consoles!










A shame so many WEGA Trinitron TVs get tossed because of the chips failing. Expensive to get repaired at a Service Center, but inexpensive for the DIY repair. The two chips are under twenty bucks shipped, though it is a meticulous repair.









*Thankyou to all the contributers to this Forum for all the insight, really helped to make my repair go smooth! I will writeup and post a full guide of my repair, maybe even a one page word document attachment for an easy printout to keep with the owners manual.*










Meanwhile enjoy some more pics.


----------



## The Lizard King

Bravo, CRTGAMER! Your contributions to this thread are most valuable!


TLK


----------



## RobertF

Congratulations CRTGAMER! Nice job! It really is a shame that these TVs get tossed over a failed $6 IC.


----------



## TeeJay1952

Quote:

Originally Posted by *RobertF* 
Congratulations CRTGAMER! Nice job! It really is a shame that these TVs get tossed over a failed $6 IC.
What is a shame is that the TV repair joints want 250 to 400 to do this repair and then they don't want to guarantee it.


----------



## mcbassin

Got my 40" back in business thanks to this thread. It took a lot more time than I planned. I had to fight with the solder removal for way longer than I expected. I used solder braid for at least an hour and still couldn't get all the solder off of one of the ICs. I gave in and tried my solder sucker, it worked good once I figured out how to make it work. Got the 18 pin sockets installed and put the new ICs in. I bought the new parts on Ebay for under $20 delivered. It fired right up and has worked the last three tries. Thanks again everyone that contributed to this thread.


----------



## daschrier

Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.


Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?


----------



## neccrttv

If the sound is similar to an electric arc gap... it could be the flyback transformer that broke. If it's that, it means a new flyback, horizontal output, diodes in some cases and lots of time...

Of course, 6 flashes is 5V supply short or IC504 short, a 5V regulator. It should be the MCZ3001 but it could be something else... For the low cost of parts and the time needed to replace the MCZ3001, I'd replace em. These TV's are sure worth it.


----------



## PureHazard

After 7+ years of service, the KV-40XBR800 in the house had issues powering on a couple of weeks ago and last week it plain would turn on. Googling about he flashing standby light led me here and Argoquest.


I'm happy to say that a couple of MCZ3001 chips and sockets have brought it back to life! Had a little bit of trouble figuring out how to get the D board out but eventually, I just slid the tray out, unplugged and unscrewed everything I could on the board and flipped it up and soldered it vertically.


I was lucky my office had a good soldering iron and a solder sucker, otherwise, I would have had to either fork over money for something I will rarely use or suffer with an old iron and no sucker.


Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daschrier* /forum/post/20737652
> 
> 
> Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.
> 
> 
> Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?



The buzz sound could be the Degauss followed by the flashes and a few relay clicks. The chips are under twenty bucks shipped, definitely worth trying.


----------



## bruman

I wish I gave a try at fixing my 6 year old 36XBR800.


It was in perfect condition. I wish I offered it here instead of paying to have it hauled away.


If anyone is interested, I have a Sony 32" HDTV that works perfectly. I have upgraded all my tv's and although I miss the picture of a CRT, I do like the bigger size I get with LCD.


If anyone wants this tv, let me know. Location is Lowell, MA.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips*

*Note: Anyone who does this repair please include your model number as I did above. Also the identifying text showing which chips are on each board BEFORE THE REPAIR, either MCZ3001D or MCZ3001DB chips.*


*DO NOT ROTATE THE CRT TO THE BOTTOM!*


I am in the process of writing a Guide and went back over the older posts in this Thread. I noticed a couple of members have rotated the tube to the bottom for repairs. Then cutting the plastic rib on the frame with a dremel and repair without removing the PCB. A risk of damaging the PCB from the cutting and harder to install the chip. Removing the PCB is really easy, its just a few screws and connectors. The main Flyback Transformer and Power Connectors do not have to be removed.

*The heavy CRT is sitting on a cradle in the normal position and could crack the front bezel if rotated. (See pics above)*


----------



## trc5561

Thanks to all the great info on this thread got by 34xbr800 back in service last night. Ordered the new chips and went to Radio Shack for the rest of the repair gear...probably 30 bucks for the solder gear and sockets...and 20 for the ICs (bought 4 in case I have to do this again). I did the repair with the board in place and the TV on its face on its stand...resting on several folded blankets. The de-soldering iron from radio shack was very simple to use and sucked the old solder out like a champ...no need for a wick. surprisingly soldering in the vertical was no problem. (if people are new to soldering like I was...there are several videos on youtube that are great teaching aides).


I did encounter one problem...when I initially installed everything and tried the tv I got the dreaded 3 blinks from the standby light







. I re-soldered all the connections thinking I had some bad solders and tested again with the same result. After reading this thread further I noticed many folks advocating pre-installing the chips in the sockets. I had a chip installer but was still apparently missing the correct connection in the sockets. I removed the speaker assembly on that side (only one screw) and got a better angle on it and after a couple tries finally got the ICs properly seated. Amazingly the set turned right on







!


Thanks again for all the great advice from everyone and saving my investment!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trc5561* /forum/post/20762175
> 
> 
> Thanks to all the great info on this thread got by 34xbr800 back in service last night. Ordered the new chips and went to Radio Shack for the rest of the repair gear...probably 30 bucks for the solder gear and sockets...and 20 for the ICs (bought 4 in case I have to do this again). I did the repair with the board in place and the TV on its face on its stand...resting on several folded blankets. The de-soldering iron from radio shack was very simple to use and sucked the old solder out like a champ...no need for a wick. surprisingly soldering in the vertical was no problem. (if people are new to soldering like I was...there are several videos on youtube that are great teaching aides).
> 
> 
> I did encounter one problem...when I initially installed everything and tried the tv I got the dreaded 3 blinks from the standby light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I re-soldered all the connections thinking I had some bad solders and tested again with the same result. After reading this thread further I noticed many folks advocating pre-installing the chips in the sockets. I had a chip installer but was still apparently missing the correct connection in the sockets. I removed the speaker assembly on that side (only one screw) and got a better angle on it and after a couple tries finally got the ICs properly seated. Amazingly the set turned right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the great advice from everyone and saving my investment!



Good job on the persistence, congrats!


I do worry when I read about rotating the TV tube face down for repair. The heavy tube sits in a cradle in the normal position and puts stress on the front bezel when rotated down. But good it worked out for you.


I had no problem installing the Chips after soldering the sockets on the PCB. The trick is to pretest fit the chip, bending legs to match the socket. Only insert halfway, then remove the chip and solder the socket. This avoids the risk of heat damage during soldering.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Repair Guide is done!














*

*Original Post*
*http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437#p458437* 

*Posted on this Forum*
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567 

*I'll get it converted to the AVS Forum layout and post it here later on.*


----------



## neccrttv2

lol, this post ^ is taking my job money away







(TV Tech).


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20770196
> 
> 
> Something that should be mentioned in your guide is that different Sony TVs have different blink codes. The Eastern Hemisphere market KV-HR and KV-HX models give 10 blinks for a D board error. Those TVs often contained MCZ3001DBs. 6 blinks from those models instead indicates an A board error.
> 
> 
> I found this on another website:
> 
> 
> What is a switching FET? If one of the two D board chips is more failure prone it would make sense to try replacing that one first.
> 
> 
> It probably would not be beneficial to remove a working MCZ3001DB except for the purpose of installing a socket for the sake of making it more user-serviceable should the chip fail at a later date. Even replacing a working plain D may be undesirable to those unused to soldering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To be honest I have doubts I could be able to pull off the soldering thing even after following this guide



Anyone should try the repair, a small twenty dollar investment. One can practice first on an old PCB. With all the work involved to get to the repair stage, its better to just go ahead and change both chips, adding sockets in case of a future fail.


A good point about the Eastern TVs, I quoted you back at the Guide.

*Anyone else have suggestions on my Guide, please let me know.*


----------



## homerging

Lost a quotation... something went wrong there.

What I found on another website:


> Quote:
> There are three in the average Sony TV, one on the so-called A-Board and 2 on the D-Board. Usually the problem is caused by a faulty one on the D-Board near the two large switching FET's. In this case, replacing this will fix the problem.



I notice lcaillo cautions against using sockets or replacing one of the two chips at a time on page 13. I suppose different risks have to be balanced depending on the circumstance.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20770499
> 
> 
> Lost a quotation... something went wrong there.
> 
> What I found on another website:
> 
> 
> I notice lcaillo cautions against using sockets or replacing one of the two chips at a time on page 13. I suppose different risks have to be balanced depending on the circumstance.



Strange how your last Reply disappeared, its quoted in my previous Reply.


Even if the blink code may point to something else, replacing the chips is only a twenty dollar investment, might fix the TV. With all the work to get to the chips, might as well change both while the PCB is exposed. Sockets are the way to go, a possible second repair years later of desoldering and soldering may damage the PCB.


----------



## bzpilot

Well, thanks for all the good advice here.


I had a KD-34XBR960 flashing seven times. Bought a couple sockets and chips and replaced them both without too much problem. Powered the TV back on worked like a champ. Then put the cover back on, put the TV on its stand, sat back to relax and watch my work and it wouldn't turn on again.


Could one of the new chips be burnt out already from another issue, or do you think something came loose when I put it back together. I'm getting the seven flashes again.


Anyone run into this?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bzpilot* /forum/post/20773251
> 
> 
> Well, thanks for all the good advice here.
> 
> 
> I had a KD-34XBR960 flashing seven times. Bought a couple sockets and chips and replaced them both without too much problem. Powered the TV back on worked like a champ. Then put the cover back on, put the TV on its stand, sat back to relax and watch my work and it wouldn't turn on again.
> 
> 
> Could one of the new chips be burnt out already from another issue, or do you think something came loose when I put it back together. I'm getting the seven flashes again.
> 
> 
> Anyone run into this?



Something must have came loose. Perhaps one of the chips was not seated all the way or the chip socket has a marginal solder connection on one of the legs.


Before you push down on the chip, look at it closely with a magnifying glass. See if the legs line up, also check all the solder connections underneath. If everything checks out, maybe pull the chips and exchange with each other. Maybe one chip went bad and you might get lucky by switching them, be sure of the notch orientation.


I'm not sure if there is more strain on the chips when powering up a warm TV that has residual current in the CRT. I make it a habit not to turn on my WEGA again until it is off for a couple of hours.


----------



## TiminIndy

I wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here with this info. I have the same 6-7 blink won't power on problem with my *34HS420* and I believe I will attempt to replace the IC's on the D-board. Local authorized dealer wanted $90 for in home diagnostic that is applied to any repairs. I wantd a ballpark to replace the IC's since I am pretty certain this is the issue after everything I read here and elsewhere on the net. He said *IF* that was the problem, it would be $180 labor and the chips are $30 a piece, "but don't believe everything you read on the internet". I told him I can order the circuits for $7 a piece and he said those would be junk and I should only use certified Sony replacement parts. I told him that the IC's Sony built these with are junk, as evidenced by the hundreds of people on the internet who had to replace them to get their TV working. (I learned later on this thread that the ones Sony uses are Shindengen also.) I called a few other places and they all wanted ~ $200 or so 'IF that's what the problem is', and most I would have to take it to them.


I have never soldered anything so I was reluctant to DIY this, so I called TSM about refurbishing my D-board and they no longer do that. Then I thought about buying another D-board. TSM gave me part # A-1302-939-A, and I found those online for around $100, but I don't think the part # is right and I can't find the part# for my D-board. I also thought about taking my D-board off and taking it to someone to do the soldering, but after reading issues here, I am just as reluctant to mess with the wires to the FBT as I am to do the soldering. (The guy that got it done for $50 was a bargain - with 32 unsolders and solders, that's $1.56 each!). I DIY a lot of stuff, but I have a lot of respect for electricity, so I avoid getting into too much on that. I also have a lot of respect for the law (Murphy's Law), as I know things can go wrong or be a lot more difficult than they first appear. I also don't have the steadiest hand and find tiny things hard to work on, but the more I read this thread and saw soldering virgins having success, I started thinking I could do this. I hate to sound chauvinist, but when I read that a female soldering virgin did it, I decided that's it - I'm doing it! I am asking around for friends who may have experience at this first - if not I'll do it alone.


----------



## TiminIndy

I was thinking that folks on here who have done this and are comfortable with it could do a search for 'Sony TV' in the 'Free Stuff' section of their local Craigslist from time to time. You could get another TV for yourself or to sell and keep them out of the landfill.


----------



## TiminIndy

Questions:


*Does anyone know where I can get the service manual or schematics for the *34HS420*?


**I plan to pull the D-board out while leaving FBT wires connected - what is the best way to secure the board to make it easier to work on.


***TSM site for the MCZ3001DB says:



> Quote:
> -Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended
> 
> 
> -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361
> 
> -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V



I only saw one guy mention this and the advice was don't mess with it. Has anyone replaced these as well?



*.1OHM1/2W Sony Fusible Resistor*









*Electrolytic Capacitor, 105º, 45mm x 30mm*


----------



## TiminIndy

That capacitor looks like it is just a plug in deal. If anyone can confirm that, I will definitely replace it - they are only $6.88.


----------



## homerging




> Quote:
> The Eastern Hemisphere market KV-HR and KV-HX models give 10 blinks for a D board error. Those TVs often contained MCZ3001DBs. 6 blinks from those models instead indicates an A board error.



I should update this with what I've found stated on other forums.


There are two MCZ3001D* chips on the D board in the HR and HX, at IC8002 and IC6400. The IC8002 MCZ3001D* will give 10 blinks when faulty, but a faulty MCZ3001D* at IC6400 may yield 6 blinks when faulty, falsely implying the A board is the problem. It looks like that for the HR/HX it is usually a single-chip fix.


Allegedly, IC8002 and IC6400 utilise different portions of the MCZ3001D* chip meaning an MCZ3001D* chip in IC8002 gone bad may still work in IC6400 (equivalent to IC6501 as it seems to be on the XBRs). That is, it is sometimes possible to 'fix' the problem by merely swapping the chips. I'm sure this would be a bad idea unless you intended to socket both ICs anyway, and even then....


One technician stated with respect to the IC8002:

"I always setup screen pot to cathode voltages after replacement of IC. If this is set wrong it can give the same error and shut down."

Could anybody expand on this? Anything I try to search about this only turns up marijana.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiminIndy* /forum/post/20780421
> 
> 
> That capacitor looks like it is just a plug in deal. If anyone can confirm that, I will definitely replace it - they are only $6.88.
> 
> 
> I plan to pull the D-board out while leaving FBT wires connected - what is the best way to secure the board to make it easier to work on.



The capacitors all solder in, not plug in like ancient tubes. The chips are all you really need, a very high sucess rate is soldered and desolderewd correctly.


Leave the video input black plastic panel installed, the D Board can be leaned against that.

*I made a GUIDE, linked at the top of this page.







*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20780590
> 
> 
> I should update this with what I've found stated on other forums.
> 
> 
> There are two MCZ3001D* chips on the D board in the HR/X - the IC8002 MCZ will give 10 blinks when faulty but a faulty IC6400 MCZ may yield 6 blinks when faulty, falsely implying the A board is the problem.
> 
> 
> Allegedly, IC8002 and IC6400 utilise different portions of the MCZ3001D* chip meaning an MCZ3001D* chip in IC8002 gone bad may still work in IC6400. That is, it is sometimes possible to 'fix' the problem by merely swapping the chips. I'm sure this would be a bad idea unless you intended to socket both ICs anyway, and even then....
> 
> 
> One technician stated with respect to the IC8002:
> *"I always setup screen pot to cathode voltages after replacement of IC. If this is set wrong it can give the same error and shut down."*
> 
> Could anybody expand on this? Anything I try to search about this only turns up marijuana.



I think the technician is pointing out a precaution of setting the voltages back to whatever is the idea voltage matched to a new tube at the factory. Potentiometers might be a little off as they age, but a two year old CRT might have different voltage requirements vs new. Even if there is a POT you can adjust, DON"T TOUCH IT. A little low or high can be a disaster, maybe frying other components. Just change the old chips with new sockets and new B chips.


In *bzpilot's* one time running with replacement socketed chips then then fail TV, swapping the chips might do the trick. Worth a try while waiting for two more to arrive in the mail.


----------



## homerging

CRTGAMER: would it be worth spending an extra couple of $ on getting professional IC sockets with machined pins?


There is an interesting post by Scott_S on dtvforum.info about how he was told by a Sony tech that a slowly failing FBT triggers the IC8002 fault. I don't know if this forum allows direct forum-links.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20780848
> 
> 
> CRTGAMER: would it be worth spending an extra couple of $ on getting professional IC sockets with machined pins?
> 
> 
> There is an interesting post by Scott_S on dtvforum.info about how he was told by a Sony tech that a slowly failing FBT triggers the IC8002 fault. I don't know if this forum allows direct forum-links.



I don't see a need, its not like the chips are going to be swapped on a continual basis. At least we all hope not.










As far as the questions of if sockets having resistance of the amp draw, look at the legs on the chips, small just like the sockets. The 59 cent 18 pin IC Sockets from Radio Shack are just fine and can be bought the same day.


Curious of the link, please post. I don't think the mods would mind posting it. Any information shared is a good thing.


----------



## TiminIndy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20780818
> 
> 
> Leave the video input black plastic panel installed, the D Board can be leaned against that.
> 
> *I made a GUIDE, linked at the top of this page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



I saw the guide - thanks, excellent resource! I was just looking for a way to have it more secure to work on than just leaning against something. Ideally, it looks like it would be nice to have it secured upside down when working on the solder points, but I don't know if the FBT wires will allow that when still attached.


----------



## TiminIndy

I found a free, online service manual for 8 of the models in the DX-1A chassis family:


KV-32HS20 US

KV-36HS20 US

KV-36HS20H Hawaii

KV-32XBR450 US

KV-32XBR450 CND

KV-36XBR450 US

KV-36XBR450 CND

KV-36XBR450H Hawaii

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3997084/So...0-Chassis-DX1A 


I still haven't found a free one for mine, the KV-34HS420


Enjoy!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiminIndy* /forum/post/20780921
> 
> 
> I saw the guide - thanks, excellent resource! I was just looking for a way to have it more secure to work on than just leaning against something. Ideally, it looks like it would be nice to have it secured upside down when working on the solder points, but I don't know if the FBT wires will allow that when still attached.



I suppose you could make some sort of jig to hold the PCB upright, but really not necessary. Best to have the entire TV prestaged on a sturdy table off the floor. I got lucky having the fireplace step which raised the TV off the floor, allowing me to sit while doing the solder work. Leaning the PCB against the input panel actually works pretty well and is stable when the bottom is placed using the gray plastic frame as a stop at the base. The leaning PCB is at a great angle for desoldering and the board can easily be spun around to pull the chip.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20780956
> 
> 
> CRTGAMER, It may be a good idea to update your guide with the extra 10 / 6 HR/HX blink information so people don't go up a blind A board alley.
> 
> 
> The thread is at:
> www.dtvforum . info/index.php?showtopic=76322&st=0
> 
> 
> TiminIndy: antistatic bags may come in useful. Perhaps pegs too if there's enough open space on the PCB.


*The link just goes to the root menu of the forum, couldn't find the exact post with a search either. Can you post the exact thread link?*


I updated my guide concerning the 10 blink / 6 blink codes of Euro TVs. I also posted in the guide to replace the chips, even if the blinks might allude to something else. At under twenty bucks with a good success rate, best to try the chip replacement first.


----------



## homerging

The link works but try this one http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...post&p=1330152 


The HR and HX were for the Asian, Australasian and African market. The European market was given the HQ series without support for HD. I don't think the HQs sold very well.


----------



## CRTGAMER

*Still Ticking*

Happy to report that it has been over three weeks and my HD CRT WEGA is still working beautiful! I was concerned about another component on the PCB causing the chips to fail. Looks like it is just the chips that went bad, maybe a power surge when turning on? Perhaps the revised B chips are more durable?

*Under Twenty Bucks*

I went ahead and ordered a backup pair, just in case the chips ever fail again. Good that I installed the 18 pin sockets, it will be an easy fix the next go around. Best to get the chips while they are inexpensive and available. A phone order gave my a better shipping rate.


----------



## tvaddicted

any ideas?


My sony just started this a few days ago................... shut off while I fell asleep in front of it. Thought I might have sat on the remote, turned it back on. shut off again, this time I noticed the led blinking. Counted seven [ pretty sure, It was about 3am, lol] happened again last night while someone else was watching it.[ this time 6 blinks] So I spent almost the entire day on the puter to figure this out. Read all the posts here, but my problem is reverse, It will turn on, it just decides to shut off after being on for so long. I think yesterday it was on for less time than the day before. Self diagnosis-#2,3,4,5-"0" #6&7 had a "one" each, and 101 had "0". 6 is "low B" 7 is "H Stop".


So, could these two chips be causing this? { I'm guessing here as this is a 6-7 blink problem}


Wow, you people are brave taking these monsters apart! can't say I'd do the same. Love the picture, but I won't be able to get anyone to move this around again, LM*O..............


----------



## tvaddicted

I can't think of a better place to post this, as we all know what a great picture these crt's have, but if I have no choice except to move on, what would you consider buying next?


all input greatly appreciated.


ps, my tv is on a good 8 hours a day, that was one of the reasons I bought this crt, I thought it would last....


I have a 12 yr old jvc still chugging along, go figure! Problem is the Sony is so superior...

[sigh]


thanks!


----------



## TiminIndy

I got all my soldering supplies at RS and ordered my IC's from TSM, and I happened to get the ideal practice board! I have a pseudo-homeless guy who comes around who collects scrap for recycle. He breaks down a lot of electronics and sells the parts to recyclers and he had a box full of circuit boards in his truck. He gave me the one on top which had several IC's for me to practice on. I knew it was similar to what I would be working on because I recognized the flyback transformer, but after cleaning it up I discovered it is a Sony 'D Board'!! It has 5 IC's on it: a 56 pin, 42 pin, 22 pin, 16 pin, & a 14 pin. Not sure what model it is from, but it says 1-665-887-14, F601T4AH, & 250VT4AH. If I get my outdoor chores done in time today I will start practicing tonight since IC's will be here in a few days.


If anybody wants it after I'm done with it, you can PayPal me the cost of a USPS Priority flat rate box and I'll send it to you.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvaddicted* /forum/post/20819230
> 
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> 
> My sony just started this a few days ago................... shut off while I fell asleep in front of it. Thought I might have sat on the remote, turned it back on. shut off again, this time I noticed the led blinking. Counted seven [ pretty sure, It was about 3am, lol] happened again last night while someone else was watching it.[ this time 6 blinks] So I spent almost the entire day on the puter to figure this out. Read all the posts here, but my problem is reverse, It will turn on, it just decides to shut off after being on for so long. I think yesterday it was on for less time than the day before. Self diagnosis-#2,3,4,5-"0" #6&7 had a "one" each, and 101 had "0". 6 is "low B" 7 is "H Stop".
> 
> 
> So, could these two chips be causing this? { I'm guessing here as this is a 6-7 blink problem}
> 
> 
> Wow, you people are brave taking these monsters apart! can't say I'd do the same. Love the picture, but I won't be able to get anyone to move this around again, LM*O..............


*UNDER TWENTY DOLLAR INVESTMENT*

Almost certain its the chips. I see you have a follow up Reply asking about a comparable replacement newer non CRT. Don't give up, there is a chance the repair would work. Click my Guide at the top for a complete walkthru. It may seem overwhelming but really just a straight forward repair and a steady hand at soldering.


----------



## tvaddicted

Thanks crt, I read all your posts on this, and it's not the $ for parts, really, it is the weight issue. [ don't think I could get anyone to move this around for me]


As for working on it, your gui is great, but I would not attempt this myself.


If I can find a plasma I like, I would give this to anyone who would want to repair it as it is in great working shape aside from the blink problem. What a shame two cheap connectors brought this crt to it's knees. Sony quality took a nose dive imo.


----------



## ggratecc

Hi all,

I've been reading this thread from the beginning for hours... but here is

my story..

Original problem of only starting after multiple attempts, 6 or 7 blinks.

Finally, won't startup at all, but still getting the 7 red blinks.

I removed the D board, ordered the 2 chips and sockets from ebay.

unsoldered the chips with a good de-soldering iron.

Carefully soldered in the sockets, inserted new chips, installed board

and reconnected everything.

Symptom: humm, click, 3 red blinks and clicks off.


If I put the two original DB chips back in the sockets, I get 6 blinks and off.

I put the 2 new chips back in, and it's back to the 3 red blinks.

I reseated all connecters and chips, but still 3 blinks.

thanks in advance, Greg


----------



## rtmach

I haven't posted in awhile so I'll chime in. I've done this repair on 5 sets with some having to be done a couple of times before they worked, and when I have gotten 3 blinks it ended up being a short. In your case it may be a short in the one of the new chips, You could try putting one old and one new chip together and see what you get. In most cases only one chip is bad, that means if you alternate twice you may come up with a working set of chips. otherwise it 's still worth another $16.95 to try again. I have 8 of these sony's, 2 -40xbr's , 2- 510hs36's , a 27hs 420 and 3- 970xbr34's and I bought a ten pack from this ebayer and all have worked so far.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT 


I would try again with some new chips from a different source.


----------



## tvaddicted




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvaddicted* /forum/post/20821493
> 
> 
> Thanks crt, I read all your posts on this, and it's not the $ for parts, really, it is the weight issue. [ don't think I could get anyone to move this around for me]
> 
> 
> As for working on it, your gui is great, but I would not attempt this myself.
> 
> 
> If I can find a plasma I like, I would give this to anyone who would want to repair it as it is in great working shape aside from the blink problem. What a shame two cheap connectors brought this crt to it's knees. Sony quality took a nose dive imo.



quoting myself LOL...........


by the way, I have been running a fan flush with the grill on the right hand side while the tv is on and so far it has not shut down.

Also, after reading this forum all night, I see alot of issues with plasmas. This is getting very discouraging...............................


----------



## CRTGAMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ggratecc* 
Hi all,

I've been reading this thread from the beginning for hours... but here is

my story..

Original problem of only starting after multiple attempts, 6 or 7 blinks.

Finally, won't startup at all, but still getting the 7 red blinks.

I removed the D board, ordered the 2 chips and sockets from ebay.

unsoldered the chips with a good de-soldering iron.

Carefully soldered in the sockets, inserted new chips, installed board

and reconnected everything.

Symptom: humm, click, 3 red blinks and clicks off.


If I put the two original DB chips back in the sockets, I get 6 blinks and off.

I put the 2 new chips back in, and it's back to the 3 red blinks.

I reseated all connecters and chips, but still 3 blinks.

thanks in advance, Greg
*

Maybe a bad solder connection*

Pull the chips, then remelt all the solder points. Go easy, you don't want to burn off a trace or connect two pads together. Be sure to heat up both the pad on the PCB and the pin of the socket to avoid a "cold solder" joint.


Be sure the chips are facing the correct direction, check the bevel on the edge matches the black dot on the board. If the sockets are backwards they will cover the dot, but still work.


----------



## ggratecc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtmach* /forum/post/20822637
> 
> 
> I haven't posted in awhile so I'll chime in. I've done this repair on 5 sets with some having to be done a couple of times before they worked, and when I have gotten 3 blinks it ended up being a short. In your case it may be a short in the one of the new chips, You could try putting one old and one new chip together and see what you get. In most cases only one chip is bad, that means if you alternate twice you may come up with a working set of chips. otherwise it 's still worth another $16.95 to try again. I have 8 of these sony's, 2 -40xbr's , 2- 510hs36's , a 27hs 420 and 3- 970xbr34's and I bought a ten pack from this ebayer and all have worked so far.
> 
> 
> ...url
> 
> 
> I would try again with some new chips from a different source.



rtmach, thanks for the reply. I previously tried matching an old and new chip and that did not work. I may try new pair of chips from manufacturer you mentioned.

If that does not work, I may try crtgamer's idea of remelting all the solder joints on my sockets, as it seems possible i have a cold solder joint.


----------



## TiminIndy

I picked up a cheap digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, but I've never used on and have no idea how. Once I have made all my solder connections and plug in the IC, is there a way I can test my connections by making contact with pins 1 & 18 (for continuity?)?


I also got this cool LED lighted magnifyer with helping hands for $5.99 and this Pry Fork and Wire Bending Tool for $1.99.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiminIndy* /forum/post/20826375
> 
> 
> I picked up a cheap digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, but I've never used on and have no idea how. Once I have made all my solder connections and plug in the IC, is there a way I can test my connections by making contact with pins 1 & 18 (for continuity?)?
> 
> 
> I also got this cool LED lighted magnifyer with helping hands for $5.99 and this Pry Fork and Wire Bending Tool for $1.99.



Nice tools. I don't recommend using the meter, *a risk of zapping the chip if the dial is set wrong*. But to use, set the meter to OHMS and test with the two probes, one on each side of the PCB. I would not do it though, current from the meter internal battery might cause damage to the chip or something else on the PCB.


The meter is really not necessary, your magnifying glass will give a good visual of each solder connection.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20826122
> 
> 
> rtmach, thanks for the reply. I previously tried matching an old and new chip and that did not work. I may try new pair of chips from manufacturer you mentioned.
> 
> If that does not work, I may try crtgamer's idea of remelting all the solder joints on my sockets, as it seems possible i have a cold solder joint.



Did you fix the WEGA?


----------



## ggratecc

Still not fixed, however the good news is I just received the new pair of chips and I will try them tonight.

I will post back with the results, but assuming I still get the 3 blinks and off, I will re-float the solder again on both sockets. Keep the advice coming...

Thanks again for those of you who are helping me, I really appreciate it.


P.S. - this kv-40xbr800 has two big caps on the D-board which looks fine to me, however they have some black foamy material that seem to be encircling the cap where it meets the PCB...hope this is not a problem.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20843495
> 
> 
> Still not fixed, however the good news is I just received the new pair of chips and I will try them tonight.
> 
> I will post back with the results, but assuming I still get the 3 blinks and off, I will re-float the solder again on both sockets. Keep the advice coming...
> 
> Thanks again for those of you who are helping me, I really appreciate it.
> 
> 
> P.S. - this kv-40xbr800 has two big caps on the D-board which looks fine to me, however they have some black foamy material that seem to be encircling the cap where it meets the PCB...hope this is not a problem.



Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.


Does it look like this?


----------



## ggratecc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20843983
> 
> 
> Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.
> 
> 
> Does it look like this?



CRT.. Yes it does look exactly like your photo , so I'm sure you are correct about it's purpose.


Now, I just put in the new chips from a different vendor and still have the same 3 blinks and then off. I just took the D board out again and took a photo of my soldering work on the two sockets. What do you think I should do? I suspect my job with the socket on the left is the problem area.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20844800
> 
> 
> CRT.. Yes it does look exactly like your photo , so I'm sure you are correct about it's purpose.
> 
> 
> Now, I just put in the new chips from a different vendor and still have the same 3 blinks and then off. I just took the D board out again and took a photo of my soldering work on the two sockets. What do you think I should do? I suspect my job with the socket on the left is the problem area.



The solder job looks clean, just a touchup in a couple of spots? On the left chip 1st row down pads 3, 4 and 5 next to the "15". The two pads might be connected? Maybe scrape a slotted jewelers screwdriver to cut a clean path between the two. Left chip 2nd row top and 3rd pad might need remelt. Also in the 2nd row left chip, pads seven and eight might be connected, scrape here too.


If this doesn't work, then try a careful light on the solder remelt of all the pads.


----------



## ggratecc

CRTgamer: I cleaned up everything like you said, then used an ohm meter to check across the sockets. On both sockets I first checked continuity from underside of pin to topside of socket - all continuity checks were good. Then I went back though all underside pins and checked for shorts to adjacent pins. I found one potentional short and removed it by cleaning as you described. I then put the newest set of chips in and tested tv, unfortunately have same symptom as before...3 red blinks and clicks off. I'm willing to fix this D board but don't know what to do next.

Perhaps there is something different about the 40XBR800 that is difficult to fix?

I really appreciate anyone chiming in.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20847000
> 
> 
> CRTgamer: I cleaned up everything like you said, then used an ohm meter to check across the sockets. On both sockets I first checked continuity from underside of pin to topside of socket - all continuity checks were good. Then I went back though all underside pins and checked for shorts to adjacent pins. I found one potential short and removed it by cleaning as you described. I then put the newest set of chips in and tested tv, unfortunately have same symptom as before...3 red blinks and clicks off. I'm willing to fix this D board but don't know what to do next.
> 
> Perhaps there is something different about the 40XBR800 that is difficult to fix?
> 
> I really appreciate anyone chiming in.



Maybe some of the narrow traces coming off the pads going to other components on the bottom? The narrow traces may not be connected to the pads anymore. Left Chip 2nd row pads 5 and 7 near the R0553 logo. Check the other rows too, the narrow traces look marginaly connected on a couple other pads.


I just noticed also maybe a short. Left chip 2nd row 3rd pad. Chunks of solder going to another pad to the right in the green area away from the socket pads. Scrutinize any other splattered solder on the white paint.


Maybe one of the connectors not seated right on the PCB? Unplug and reseat each one, including the four black blocks that attach the A and D board together.


Right chip last row bottom pad also looks like maybe a short to surrounding components?


----------



## ggratecc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20843983
> 
> 
> Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.
> 
> 
> Does it look like this?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20847083
> 
> 
> Maybe some of the narrow traces coming off the pads going to other components on the bottom? The narrow traces may not be connected to the pads anymore. Left Chip 2nd row pads 5 and 7 near the R0553 logo. Check the other rows too, the narrow traces look marginaly connected on a couple other pads.
> 
> 
> I just noticed also maybe a short. Left chip 2nd row 3rd pad. Chunks of solder going to another pad to the right in the green area away from the socket pads. Scrutinize any other splattered solder on the white paint.
> 
> 
> Maybe one of the connectors not seated right on the PCB? Unplug and reseat each one, including the four black blocks that attach the A and D board together.
> 
> 
> Right chip last row bottom pad also looks like maybe a short to surrounding components?



thanks for looking at this...I checked all the traces you mentioned and all the traces are good...about 0.2 ohms. I should take another photo , but going out now.

Also I reseated all connectors (many times), no joy.


----------



## ggratecc

Here is a recent photo of the same area again. I never did resolder any points as I never found any opens in the traces. I even measured across all those small resistors connected to the left chip, continuity and resistance seems normal.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20848269
> 
> 
> Here is a recent photo of the same area again. I never did resolder any points as I never found any opens in the traces. I even measured across all those small resistors connected to the left chip, continuity and resistance seems normal.



One thing has been bugging me. The exposed PCB, white paint removed between some contacts. I know some of this was maybe caused by scrapping with a screwdriver, but were the old chips hard to remove? Maybe a pad got damaged? The OHM meter may pick up continuity but more sensitive then amp draw needed for each pin?, Remelt the solder anyways just in case.


----------



## ggratecc

Hi, the chips were easy to remove as I had an excellent quality electric solder sucker, the exposed part was because of a knife I used to clean up between pads. I will now take your advice and remelt the solder.

thanks again,


----------



## reds75

I just bought a 2002 34xbr800 for 175$,am I destined to get the 6 or 7 blinking lights that may signal board or capacitor problems ?Are there any of these xbr800 sets that have not had these issues? Love the picture quality,hope I didnt over pay.I may need some money for future repairs.


----------



## ggratecc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20850848
> 
> 
> Hi, the chips were easy to remove as I had an excellent quality electric solder sucker, the exposed part was because of a knife I used to clean up between pads. I will now take your advice and remelt the solder.
> 
> thanks again,



I have remelted the solder for all pcb pads for the two sockets, made sure all connections to the D board are tight, still get the 3 blinks and OFF.

I tried all combinations of the new chips and old and still get the same symptom.


Thanks CRTgamer and others who helped, but I feel I'm at a dead end.

I plan to put the 40" out on the curb, so if anyone wants it let me know.

regards,


----------



## jwhodges

I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips in my KV-40XBR800...it starts up and plays for about 15 to 30 minutes and will shut down with no blinking lights...you can hit the remote on button and it may shut off, no blinking light and play for a while and shut off again...any suggestions as how to fix this...


----------



## homerging

reds75: you're not "destined" to have those problems during the service life of the TV, it is just a possibility that seems more real because many who have these problems who doesn't throw their TV away come to this thread.


jwhodges: although the MCZ3001D failure is the most common with these TVs, it is not the only one. If it is losing power while running it is probably that something else with the electrics is wrong.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ggratecc* /forum/post/20864109
> 
> 
> I have remelted the solder for all pcb pads for the two sockets, made sure all connections to the D board are tight, still get the 3 blinks and OFF.
> 
> I tried all combinations of the new chips and old and still get the same symptom.
> 
> 
> Thanks CRTgamer and others who helped, but I feel I'm at a dead end.
> 
> I plan to put the 40" out on the curb, so if anyone wants it let me know.
> 
> regards,


*Additional investment*

Not sure if you want to keep trying. Where did you buy the chips? Some sources are unreliable, I have good results with TSM. They also recommended the following components if you want keep trying.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TSM* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979...dengen-ic.aspx
> 
> 
> -Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended
> 
> 
> -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361
> 
> 
> -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V


----------



## jwhodges




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwhodges* /forum/post/20864830
> 
> 
> I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips in my KV-40XBR800...it starts up and plays for about 15 to 30 minutes and will shut down with no blinking lights...you can hit the remote on button and it may shut off, no blinking light and play for a while and shut off again...any suggestions as how to fix this...



I had the 6 blinks and no start up like others on the forum...got sockets and chips from B&D enterprises out of Russell, PA...desoldered with wick breaded cooper wire no problem...soldered in sockets and misaligned one chip which caused it not to power up...replaced chips and had TV, but after about 15 minutes it shut down...could that be caused by cold solder joints?


----------



## tvaddicted

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jwhodges* 
I had the 6 blinks and no start up like others on the forum...got sockets and chips from B&D enterprises out of Russell, PA...desoldered with wick breaded cooper wire no problem...soldered in sockets and misaligned one chip which caused it not to power up...replaced chips and had TV, but after about 15 minutes it shut down...could that be caused by cold solder joints?
My post is #1521

I've been running a small table fan directed at the case cover grill on the right hand side of the tv,[ it is acually flush with the cover] and it only stumbled once in the last 10 days. As I am not really able to repair it, I am planning to replace it. My point here is, just for the heck of it, I'd be interested in knowing if this works at all for you or anyone else. My tv does power up, but if it runs without the fan [ about a half hour or so] the screen goes black [ with some green artifacts] and shuts down. obviously something is getting too warm and the safety shut off kicks in. The fan however is keeping it cool enough to work. Yeah, I know, doesn't fix the problem, just giving me extra time to find another tv.


----------



## dkstout

I had the 7 blink error. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the two chips in my KV-36HS500. The picture is back, but the lower part of the screen has a slight bow to it. Kind of drops off in the lower left. I downloaded the service manual and accidently cleared out the memory trying to fix the problem. Before I hit the reset, everything was fine except for the sloping screen. After the reset and me trying to reinstall all of the initial data, I lost the picture, but not sound on Video 5 for my DVD and Video 7 for my HiDef. Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkstout* /forum/post/20875409
> 
> 
> I had the 7 blink error. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the two chips in my KV-36HS500. The picture is back, but the lower part of the screen has a slight bow to it. Kind of drops off in the lower left. I downloaded the service manual and accidently cleared out the memory trying to fix the problem. Before I hit the reset, everything was fine except for the sloping screen. After the reset and me trying to reinstall all of the initial data, I lost the picture, but not sound on Video 5 for my DVD and Video 7 for my HiDef. Does anyone have any ideas?


*You lost 480p and above resolutions*

Video 5 and Video 6 are component, 7 is HDMI/DVI. Does Video 6 still work? I will not go into the hidden service menu because of the risk such as this. If you can get back to the service menu thru a 480i selection, maybe check if there is a setting to enable the higher resolutions?


----------



## SFX27

I have a KV-36HS500 with the 7 blinks. I read at another forum about using a hair dryer in the rightside vents for a few minutes to get it to come on, (which worked). Would this indicate a problem which the chips mentioned several times?


----------



## dkstout

When I tried to reinstall the default settings for KV-36HS500, I selected where appropriate the 480i, which was just a guess at the time. Please note there are many four digit item acronyms on 33 pages of the service manual, from page 123 through page 155 for this model of the Sony. I wish I could obtain a key for the four digit item acronyms that would help me isolate which ones should be revisited.


Some of the possible selections are confusing without a key. An example is on page 133, for Category 2170P_4, Item 17 GAMM, where the column selections for "Standard" are: RF, CF/YC, Comp 480i, Comp 480p, Comp 1080i, Comp 720p, DVI 480i, DVI 480p, DVI VGA, DVI 1080i, DVI 720p, MS Menu, MS Single, and Twin.


----------



## daschrier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daschrier* /forum/post/20737652
> 
> 
> Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.
> 
> 
> Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?




Based on reading this thread, any potential repair is beyond my skill/knowledge level. Anyone in the Boston area that could diagnose and fix this TV?


----------



## CRTGAMER

@ _*SFX27*_ - Hairdryer is a temporary solution that eventually will no longer work. The chips are usually the culprit.


@ _*SFX27*_ and _*daschrier*_ - Click the link to my Guide at the top of page 51 in this Thread. Its very in depth, should help to answer any questions. The only real tricky part is the solder work. If you have a steady hand its really not that hard to do.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkstout* /forum/post/20879951
> 
> 
> When I tried to reinstall the default settings for KV-36HS500, I selected where appropriate the 480i, which was just a guess at the time. Please note there are many four digit item acronyms on 33 pages of the service manual, from page 123 through page 155 for this model of the Sony. I wish I could obtain a key for the four digit item acronyms that would help me isolate which ones should be revisited.
> 
> 
> Some of the possible selections are confusing without a key. An example is on page 133, for Category 2170P_4, Item 17 GAMM, where the column selections for "Standard" are: RF, CF/YC, Comp 480i, Comp 480p, Comp 1080i, Comp 720p, DVI 480i, DVI 480p, DVI VGA, DVI 1080i, DVI 720p, MS Menu, MS Single, and Twin.


*I asked this earlier, Do you have video on input #6?*

If you do, use that Component input for the HD signal. Or you can dive in and risk losing the 480i signals. I would first attack the DVI input and set it to 480p. If it works, then try the higher resolution settings. Be sure DVI VGA is off, might interfere with regular DVI/HDMI signals.


There is another thread on this site that covers Service settings.

Maybe PM the _KenTech_: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494 


Do you have a link to download the Service Manual?


----------



## daschrier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20881701
> 
> 
> @ _*SFX27*_ - Hairdryer is a temporary solution that eventually will no longer work. The chips are usually the culprit.
> 
> 
> @ _*SFX27*_ and _*daschrier*_ - Click the link to my Guide at the top of page 51 in this Thread. Its very in depth, should help to answer any questions. The only real tricky part is the solder work. If you have a steady hand its really not that hard to do.
> 
> 
> 
> *I asked this earlier, Do you have video on input #6?*
> 
> If you do, use that Component input for the HD signal. Or you can dive in and risk losing the 480i signals. I would first attack the DVI input and set it to 480p. If it works, then try the higher resolution settings. Be sure DVI VGA is off, might interfere with regular DVI/HDMI signals.
> 
> 
> There is another thread on this site that covers Service settings.
> 
> Maybe PM the _KenTech_: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494
> 
> 
> Do you have a link to download the Service Manual?




I did briefly skim through your guide, but is it applicable to the xbr970 set?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daschrier* /forum/post/20885130
> 
> 
> I did briefly skim through your guide, but is it applicable to the xbr970 set?



Your WEGA should have basically the same layout. You could try the hairdryer trick as a temporary fix, might work. Replacing the under twenty dollar chips is the more permanent solution.


----------



## dbsimms63




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertF* /forum/post/12562756
> 
> 
> I had done some soldering also before I attempted my XBR400 repair. What I found to be more of a challenge than I expected was _desoldering_. That was a bit of a pain. I did have an old and defective PC motherboard stored away and I practiced desoldering some ICs on that. that was a big help. I also found a head mounted magnifying visor to be a big help.
> 
> 
> Also, as mentioned above, consider installing 18 pin sockets for the ICs.
> 
> 
> Bob



When soldering in the 18 pin sockets, do you leave the same pins unsoldered like the original chips? I would believe they would so as not to make a connection for the pins, but would like to check. Also, where are the soldering tips? I have never done soldering like this.


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbsimms63* /forum/post/20895884
> 
> 
> When soldering in the 18 pin sockets, do you leave the same pins unsoldered like the original chips? I would believe they would so as not to make a connection for the pins, but would like to check. Also, where are the soldering tips? I have never done soldering like this.



Yes, there's no need to solder the unsoldered pins.


And there are soldering tips scattered throughout this thread. But here are some that I posted over on agoraquest.com under "BobF":

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....page_number=10 


Good Luck!


Bob


----------



## dbsimms63

Thank you sir. I have my chips and sockets on their way. So far I've only spent $18. Are there any directions on how to remove the D board completely? I see where people refer to having it in the service position, what is that, and how do you do it? Thanks again for the help.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20896228
> 
> 
> I've removed the 14 large screws from the back of the Sony. But the cover won't budge. The backplate has a further 6 smaller screws and 1 screw with a washer. Is it ok to remove the backplate's screws? There's nothing about them in the service manuals but I don't want to damage something either way.



@ _homerging_ - Not positive without pics, my panel stayed on to support the removed D Board. My back light grey cover has 18 screws, some in the middle back. Try lifting the video input panel up a little while sliding the back cover off. If no luck, go ahead and remove the screws.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbsimms63* /forum/post/20897071
> 
> 
> Thank you sir. I have my chips and sockets on their way. So far I've only spent $18. Are there any directions on how to remove the D board completely? I see where people refer to having it in the service position, what is that, and how do you do it? Thanks again for the help.



@ _dbsimms63_ - The Service Position is sliding the entire A and D board assembly out and flipped up. You don't want to do that since the Flyback Transformer cable does not get unplugged. See my Repair Guide linked at the top of page 51.


----------



## homerging

I got thrown because this example is different from the service manual's and other Sonys. I've removed the backplate screws without issue.


The reason I was having difficulty removing the back cover is because it is apparently _load-bearing_ and carries the weight of the TV behind the frontplate. Is this normal? It will be hellishly difficult to remove and I doubt the stability once it's gone.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20907577
> 
> 
> I got thrown because this example is different from the service manual's and other Sonys. I've removed the backplate screws without issue.
> 
> 
> The reason I was having difficulty removing the back cover is because it is apparently _load-bearing_ and carries the weight of the TV behind the frontplate. Is this normal? It will be hellishly difficult to remove and I doubt the stability once it's gone.



Most of the weight is at the front. The bottom of the TV PCB Shelf Tray might be catching your cover. Or maybe your TV has a different design where it removing the cover in the normal position will not work. I wouldn't want to rotate the heavy tube down due to the risk of cracking the front. All this is a guesstimate without pics.


Please post a couple of pics.


----------



## artyusmce

i ve read 75 percent of this thread. I though you didnt have to disconect anything to get the A and D board into the service postion?


----------



## RobertF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/20907577
> 
> 
> I got thrown because this example is different from the service manual's and other Sonys. I've removed the backplate screws without issue.
> 
> 
> The reason I was having difficulty removing the back cover is because it is apparently _load-bearing_ and carries the weight of the TV behind the frontplate. Is this normal? It will be hellishly difficult to remove and I doubt the stability once it's gone.



My KV-36XBR400 was like this. I needed to tip the TV forward slightly to get the weight off of the rear cover. It didn't take much rotation at all but it's really a two person job. One person to tip it from the front and a second to pull back on the cover. You have to be very careful since these TVs are "tube heavy" and they can fall forward.


In contrast, the back cover on my KV-36XBR800 could be pulled free without tipping the TV.


Good luck!


Bob


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *artyusmce* /forum/post/20909297
> 
> 
> i ve read 75 percent of this thread. I though you didnt have to disconect anything to get the A and D board into the service postion?



The cables under the CRT are short, you will have to unplug them. There is no reason to pull the A and D board all the way back to the service position, the bracket underneath covers one of the chips solder points. Some have used a dremel to cut away the bracket, but a chance of damaging the PCB trace. The A board is not hard to remove, follow the Guide linked at the top of page 51 of this Thread.


----------



## artyusmce

copy that


----------



## CRTGAMER

I posted this at my *Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide* 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You may find this Japanese website about the MCZ3001D problem useful
> http://www31.atwiki.jp/mcz3001d/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! One of the links there shows a schematic of the chip, how it communicates. The chips act as a safety switch, controlling power to the WEGA when voltage detection is off. Perhaps the chips are failing because of heat sensitivity throwing off detection of the correct voltage. This might explain why blowing a fan over the chips sometimes works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a Remote and Owners Manual from _tvaddicted_, a member at the AVS Forum . The remote is from a KV-HS32420 works beautiful as a spare for my KV-32HS500. This confirms the KVHS series all utilize the same basic PCB Board. Since my HDTV has no chips on the A Board, I suspect all of the KVHS TVs are similar with just the two chips on the D Board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Owners Manual offered some interesting information.
> 
> *Differences between of the two HDTVs*
> *KV-32HS500* ..................... *KV-32HS420*
> 
> Remote has Joystick ........... Remote has Pad
> 
> DVI Input ......................... HDMI Input
> 
> No Zoom ......................... Zoom Capable
> 
> Memory Reader ............... No Memory Reader
> 
> 
> Note the *No Zoom* feature and older *DVI Input* on my 4:3 KV-32HS500 CRT. When my HDTV was purchased, HD was in its infancy, so settings such as zoom, widescreen and full adjustments were not yet incorporated. Interesting that the KV-HS32420 which is also a 4:3 HD CRT has the additional screen control features. The video settings might be hidden in the Firmware Service menu on my TV, no way will I risk bricking though. I used my Cablebox and DVD player screen settings to get around this.
Click to expand...


----------



## OTAJIM

Back in January I replaced the two MCZ chips with sockets and new chips, and this got my 34XBR960 going again. Sometime around June or July there started to be problems with red flashes on the screen, very brief at first, then lasting longer but always going away. Then they started lasting several seconds, but a light tap on the left side of the set would bring the set back to normal. Eventually the red flashes grew to turn the whole screen red at which point the protective circuits shut the TV down. 6 or 7 flashes from the diagnostics. No problem, I just replaced the two ICs which was easy because of the sockets. The TV was up and running, but the brief red flashes at the top of the screen reappeared after a few weeks. A few more weeks and the set was back to a full red screen. Always 6 or 7 flashes from the diagnostics. Replacing the chips again gave the brief red flashes at the top followed by the full red screen about two days later. Multiple Google searches turned up one other similar incident of the red screen,but with no outcome/solution. I've just done the full caps, resistors, resolder the sockets and put in new chips. Red screen on start-up. Anybody have any ideas? A Panasonic plasma might be nice...


----------



## nota

12-23-09, 02:25 AM

I fixed my wega 32hd hs

by replacing the mcz3001db chips


it worked fine until resently about the last week

began blinking again but would come on after a few trys

but today would not come on for 4 hours of intermittent trys

but finally did and has been on for 7 hours today


I think I will pull the back and swap the two chips in the sockets

first

and order the chips off ebay again


are any brand chips better or worse or longer lived ??

and other then checking the R's and looking at the caps if bulged

any thing else to check in there ?


I had plain ''D'' chips in the tv from sony

but replaced with ""DB" chips as that was thought to be the better chip at the time [09]

are D , DA , DB , DC , chips really the same both in electric function and lifespan ??

or are they the same chip ???????????



btw a e-bay chip search brought up a guy in marion, IN, United States

who claims to fix the D-boards

if chip replacement fails to restore the set to working

for 38.99 plus shipping your bad board and return fixed

has anyone used him ?????????


----------



## rokanije

Has anyone successfully diagnosed the 4 blink slow to give a half sized image jumping vertically and horizontally slowly growing to a full stable image. I have a KV-34XBR910 that does this. It once and a great while gave 7 blinks so I replaced the kit(Chips,capacitors,fusible resistors) to no avail but at least I dont get the 7 blinks anymore. I have read this whole thread and I remember one person talking about this and many referrals to the hair dryer trick which does indeed work. It appears I can speed up the growing size by heating the area of the front 1200Mfd 250V capacitor. I have soldered all the joints in that quadrant of the D board. Seems like I have read where IC5004 was no help also and if I put the blow dryer near that area it takes longer to increase to full size than if in the area of the front capacitor. I'm like everyone else it would be a shame to get rid of this thing for a cheap part because it has a great picture and of course paying over $2K in 2003 and its failing already makes it worse. Thanks in advance.


----------



## nota

flipped the chips [swapped sockets]

and up and running again


still will buy replacement chips


but which ones plain D DA DB DC

OR WHICH BRAND/VENDER


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rokanije* /forum/post/20982384
> 
> 
> Has anyone successfully diagnosed the 4 blink slow to give a half sized image jumping vertically and horizontally slowly growing to a full stable image. I have a KV-34XBR910 that does this. It once and a great while gave 7 blinks so I replaced the kit(Chips,capacitors,fusible resistors) to no avail but at least I dont get the 7 blinks anymore. I have read this whole thread and I remember one person talking about this and many referrals to the hair dryer trick which does indeed work. It appears I can speed up the growing size by heating the area of the front 1200Mfd 250V capacitor. I have soldered all the joints in that quadrant of the D board. Seems like I have read where IC5004 was no help also and if I put the blow dryer near that area it takes longer to increase to full size than if in the area of the front capacitor. I'm like everyone else it would be a shame to get rid of this thing for a cheap part because it has a great picture and of course paying over $2K in 2003 and its failing already makes it worse. Thanks in advance.



Does the screen go completely normal with the hair dryer trick? The chips are mainly to allow a power on. I'm not sure if they would giv a marginal pic, its either power or no power. Did you use sockets with the chips? If so, try switching positions, maybe a chip might be marginal?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nota* /forum/post/20991598
> 
> 
> flipped the chips [swapped sockets]
> 
> and up and running again, still will buy replacement chips.
> 
> 
> But which ones plain D DA DB DC, OR WHICH BRAND/VENDER












*Check my Guide linked at the top of page 51 on this Thread*


----------



## rokanije

CRTGAMER, I installed the sockets about a year ago when I was getting 4 blinks and 7 blinks. The hair dryer trick will give a full stable picture. Also I can heat the area near the front 1200mf 250v capacitor(new ones now) and bridge rectifier for about 30 seconds and then turn it on and it comes on perfectly with no error otherwise if I do nothing it takes about 7 minutes to come up to a full stable picture. I sure this will get progressively worse to where heat wont help. I had bought 4 chips last year and just bought 2 more with the complete 7 blink kit so I have tried 6 different chips. I don't know if freeze mist is available anymore as I was thinking about buying some to spray on individual components to see if I could get it to go back to the small unstable picture once it is full and stable. I was also thinking about monitoring the 15vDC line to see if it starts off low and works it's way up to 15 voltsl when the picture is complete. I don't have an ocilliscope so I can't monitor the voltages for ac ripple but I doubt ac ripple is the problem. I used to work on TVs 35yrs ago when tubes were just going out. Guess that tells you how old I am














. Anyway I'm not sure if freeze mist is available nowadays with all the worries about the ozone layers and flourocarbons. I'll google freeze mist to see if it is available. I could always get a can of 134A refirgerant and use that. Ha, I didn't say that. I was just hoping someone has pinpointed the issue. Heating the area of the chips doesn't seem to be effective. If I happen to find the problem I will post it but if anyone has fixed this problem I appreciate their comments. Thanks everyone.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rokanije* /forum/post/20991935
> 
> 
> CRTGAMER, I installed the sockets about a year ago when I was getting 4 blinks and 7 blinks. The hair dryer trick will give a full stable picture. Also I can heat the area near the front 1200mf 250v capacitor(new ones now) and bridge rectifier for about 30 seconds and then turn it on and it comes on perfectly with no error otherwise if I do nothing it takes about 7 minutes to come up to a full stable picture. I sure this will get progressively worse to where heat wont help. I had bought 4 chips last year and just bought 2 more with the complete 7 blink kit so I have tried 6 different chips. I don't know if freeze mist is available anymore as I was thinking about buying some to spray on individual components to see if I could get it to go back to the small unstable picture once it is full and stable. I was also thinking about monitoring the 15vDC line to see if it starts off low and works it's way up to 15 voltsl when the picture is complete. I don't have an ocilliscope so I can't monitor the voltages for ac ripple but I doubt ac ripple is the problem. I used to work on TVs 35yrs ago when tubes were just going out. Guess that tells you how old I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyway I'm not sure if freeze mist is available nowadays with all the worries about the ozone layers and flourocarbons. I'll google freeze mist to see if it is available. I could always get a can of 134A refirgerant and use that. Ha, I didn't say that. I was just hoping someone has pinpointed the issue. Heating the area of the chips doesn't seem to be effective. If I happen to find the problem I will post it but if anyone has fixed this problem I appreciate their comments. Thanks everyone.



First I heard of cooling components like that in trouble shooting, a novel approach! A seven minute startup is strange, does the TV go thru reset cycles of lights and clicking until it finally turns on? You went thru a lot of chips already so doesn't seem to be the problem unless all defective from one source. Maybe one of the solder traces are marginal, but unlikely since the TV does eventually work. Remelting every solder joint doesn't cost anything but time, maybe give that a shot. I suspect maybe the larger replacement capacitors are at fault, maybe defective or not a perfect match to the originals.


Be sure the TV is plugged directly to the wall socket or a heavy duty extension cord. Some power strips may not allow enough amps to start the TV. The tube needs that extra surge of amps to power up.


----------



## TiminIndy

I'm finally ready to attempt this repair - been busy with yard renovation, etc... I got an old Sony D board off another TV to use for practice, and just did my first desolder on a 42 pin IC. I used desoldering braid and a 15W solder iron from Radio Shack, since that's what most of the rookies on here had the most luck with. I don't think I really damaged any of the pads too bad, but I got some black smudgy stuff on the board. I dusted it with a brand new paint brush and canned air, but I forgot to use the RS electronics cleaner I bought - maybe the burnt stuff is from residual grime? The only way I could get the solder to wick off was by putting the pin against the sides of the legs which had it up against the pads. I think I'll clean and try another. This board has 4 more IC's on it - a 14, 16, 22, and a 56 pin. Now I have a headache from the smell - this is how I picture a meth lab smells like! Here's the one I did:


----------



## rokanije




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/20995398
> 
> 
> First I heard of cooling components like that in trouble shooting, a novel approach! A seven minute startup is strange, does the TV go thru reset cycles of lights and clicking until it finally turns on? You went thru a lot of chips already so doesn't seem to be the problem unless all defective from one source. Maybe one of the solder traces are marginal, but unlikely since the TV does eventually work. Remelting every solder joint doesn't cost anything but time, maybe give that a shot. I suspect maybe the larger replacement capacitors are at fault, maybe defective or not a perfect match to the originals.
> 
> 
> Be sure the TV is plugged directly to the wall socket or a heavy duty extension cord. Some power strips may not allow enough amps to start the TV. The tube needs that extra surge of amps to power up.



By seven minutes I mean it takes that long for it to have a full sized stable picture. It sounds like a normal sequence(until the 4 blinks), relay click, high voltage to crt(normal 1 second crackling sound) then audio but starts out with black screen(no vertical or horizontal deflection) and 4 led blinks and maybe 30 seconds later the reduced, centered, unstable image(probably 6 inches of black bars all the way around) pops up and gradually grows to a normal full screen stable image. It's plugged in to the wall where it has always been and in a different circuit outlet. I found non- chloroflorcarbon freeze mist on the internet so I will try to find some locally and try to isolate it like that first. The chips were from 2 different vendors over a year apart so I don't suspect them.


----------



## TiminIndy

Desoldered 3 more - coming out a little cleaner but it looks like I'm leaving a lot of the old solder on the pads. Suppose I should go back and desolder that some more now that I've pulled the chips out?


Not sure what TV this Sony board was from, but it had IC's from NEC, Motorola, Texas Instruments, and two processors from STMicroelectronics (56 pin not in pic). No Shindengen circuits here!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rokanije* /forum/post/20996096
> 
> 
> By seven minutes I mean it takes that long for it to have a full sized stable picture. It sounds like a normal sequence(until the 4 blinks), relay click, high voltage to crt(normal 1 second crackling sound) then audio but starts out with black screen(no vertical or horizontal deflection) and 4 led blinks and maybe 30 seconds later the reduced, centered, unstable image(probably 6 inches of black bars all the way around) pops up and gradually grows to a normal full screen stable image. It's plugged in to the wall where it has always been and in a different circuit outlet. I found non- chloroflorcarbon freeze mist on the internet so I will try to find some locally and try to isolate it like that first. The chips were from 2 different vendors over a year apart so I don't suspect them.



I'm curious if the freeze spray has any affect. Your description seems to confirm the chips are not at fault since the CRT is getting power. The crackle is the degauss, followed by power to the tube. The chips act as a voltage detect and then allowing the power on. Since the tube is getting power, I'm leaning towards the large replacement capacitors as maybe the problem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiminIndy* /forum/post/20996252
> 
> 
> Desoldered 3 more - coming out a little cleaner but it looks like I'm leaving a lot of the old solder on the pads. Suppose I should go back and desolder that some more now that I've pulled the chips out?


*Heat only if needed*

Once the chip is removed, see if a replacement chip or socket will drop in. Any unnecessary remelt of the remaining solder might damage the traces.


----------



## nota

as long as you can see a hole to get the new chip pin in the hole

leave the extra solder be as you need it to redue the new chip or socket


heat the wick and the pin on the old chip not the board

the iron should never touch the board/trace


----------



## ivtec

Hi guys: this Sony KVHS500 started with intermittent shut down with no blinks,now after a few days it shows 3 blinks sometime it starts right up sometimes it takes 1 or 2,3 pushes on the remote,which leads me to some confusion,pulled up the diagnosis test shows 0's no faults, i know,3 blinks is Low +B Over voltage (OVP) IC6505 maybe faulty. (D Board, anybody here knows about this intermittent faults?thanks


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec* /forum/post/21023101
> 
> 
> Hi guys: this Sony KVHS500 started with intermittent shut down with no blinks,now after a few days it shows 3 blinks sometime it starts right up sometimes it takes 1 or 2,3 pushes on the remote,which leads me to some confusion,pulled up the diagnosis test shows 0's no faults, i know,3 blinks is Low +B Over voltage (OVP) IC6505 maybe faulty. (D Board, anybody here knows about this intermittent faults?thanks



The chips are under twenty bucks, usually the problem for a six or seven blink code. Even might be the fix for your three blink TV. Check the top of page 51 for my Repair Link.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21026432
> 
> 
> The chips are under twenty bucks, usually the problem for a six or seven blink code. Even might be the fix for your three blink TV. Check the top of page 51 for my Repair Link.



Thanks Bro; but that's a shot in the dark,i have the two chips but the tv just wont die for good nor shows on the diagnosis test any fault,some time tv goes a couple days without doing anything starts right up,this intermittent faults are hard to spot,i'll wait for it to go bad and then try to test the circuit,thanks anyway.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21026432
> 
> 
> The chips are under twenty bucks, usually the problem for a six or seven blink code. Even might be the fix for your three blink TV. Check the top of page 51 for my Repair Link.



CRTGAMER I came across on page 52 or so that you had the 3 blinks also did you fix your 3 blinks by replacing IC6051 and IC8002?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec* /forum/post/21030363
> 
> 
> Thanks Bro; but that's a shot in the dark,i have the two chips but the tv just wont die for good nor shows on the diagnosis test any fault,some time tv goes a couple days without doing anything starts right up,this intermittent faults are hard to spot,i'll wait for it to go bad and then try to test the circuit,thanks anyway.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec* /forum/post/21030417
> 
> 
> CRTGAMER I came across on page 52 or so that you had the 3 blinks also did you fix your 3 blinks by replacing IC6051 and IC8002?


*The Guide is linked at the top of Page 51*

Mine had six and sometime seven blinks. The repair may not fix yours, but for less then twenty bucks its the first thing I would do. The desolder and solder requires a steady hand, a risk of ruining the PCB if not careful. Maybe order the chips to have on hand, then do the repair once the TV fails.


----------



## PureHazard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiminIndy* /forum/post/20996252
> 
> 
> Desoldered 3 more - coming out a little cleaner but it looks like I'm leaving a lot of the old solder on the pads. Suppose I should go back and desolder that some more now that I've pulled the chips out?



I used a solder sucker like this to do a clean desolder job.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLDER-SUCKE...item2eb18ee5ab


----------



## rachelle100

I am trying to send off my board for repair... no soddering skills. I have completely removed all the connections excpet the main one connecting the tube. (RED fat wire) Can somone tell me how this is disconnected?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rachelle100* /forum/post/21082151
> 
> 
> I am trying to send off my board for repair... no soddering skills. I have completely removed all the connections excpet the main one connecting the tube. (RED fat wire) Can someone tell me how this is disconnected?


HIGH VOLTAGE EVEN WHEN UNPLUGGED

You have to discharge the stray voltage under the rubber boot at the CRT. Read up and research this first, it can kill you! The red cable at the board end takes a very hard pull, almost to the point of breaking the PCB. Be sure the lock tab at the connector is free. DISCHARGE THE VOLTAGE AT THE TUBE END FIRST!


The solder work can be done and it is as little tricky but not that hard. Practice on some old PCBs first. I recently posted my Guide right here on the AVS Forums.

*http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567*


----------



## interx999

Thank you all so, so much for all your help. Big props to RobertF and CRTGAMER for his super helpful guide. After reading through this thread and CRTGAMER's guide a few times, I went ahead and ordered the chips and sockets from eBay for my 32HS510 which was getting the 6/7 blink code. I have no soldering/desoldering experience, but thanks to your help and some videos on youtube, I proceeded to completely desolder the old chips from the opposite side of the board with the solder sucker tool. The chips just fell out from the other side. I removed them and soldered on the sockets and then dropped in the chips, reassembled everything back together and the tv started right up and has been working perfectly ever since!


I really recommend going over the solder points with a magnifying glass once you've finished to make sure that the solder didn't bleed into another contact point. If so, just desolder it or run a knife/screwdriver along the contact point to brush the connecting solder away. Don't know how professional that is, but it worked for me and didn't scratch/damage the board if done carefully; the solder kind of flicked off.


I cut my finger lifting one of the transition blocks from the D and A board, so be careful with that. Other than that, everything went pretty smoothly and I was done within about an hour and a half.


So to all those who are about to do this, plan your repair using the info in this thread and CRTGAMER's excellent guide, work slowly and carefully, and reap the rewards with your newly working SONY television.


Thanks again for all your help!!


----------



## Scott91370

Thanks to everybody who has posted their findings and fixes! I've had this TV about 8 years (2nd owner) and while I would love to have a new 37" LED I'm not ready to part with the cash just yet. I got the 7 flashes so it looks like it time to replace the ICs that everyone else is having issues with. I have ordered my sockets and chips and they will be installed this weekend when a cousin of mine come up. He used to work for Motorola working on phones and is pretty darn good at soldering.


I have already removed the back of the TV and the plastic bar from underneath. Just have to flip it back on its face and do the work.


I'll let you know the out come.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott91370* /forum/post/21130591
> 
> 
> I have already removed the back of the TV and the plastic bar from underneath. Just have to *flip it back on its face* and do the work.
> 
> 
> I'll let you know the out come.


*Don't rotate the TV!*

A chance the tube may crack the front bezel. I posted a guide with pics showing how the CRT sits on a cradle in the regular position.


The Guide: *http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567*


----------



## Scott91370

Too late. Already finished the project.


We have powered it on/off after running it for a while and letting it warm up.


So far working perfect!


Thanks to everyone that posted their fixes!!!


Total cost for parts: $16.25

Tools $6.00

Beer/Dinner for payment of repair: $15.00


Total: $37.25!!!!


----------



## RalphArch

Great tv for around 6 years - but got the 6 blinks a couple weeks ago. Replaced the two ICs (same model in set as the current ones from TSM) - no joy still 6 blinks followed by . I thought about trying the additional parts recommended by TSM but TV doesn't fit in current room anyway so will forgo trying the capacitors and fuse recommended. tristatemodule.com 


If someone wants a free tv contact me so it can be picked up in Rockville MD before I take it to the landfill this weekend.


----------



## OTAJIM

To follow-up on the red screen of death for my 34xbr960, I brought the 200 lb beast to a local pro, and after several diagnostic tests, the TV actually came back to life!! We turned it off again, put the rear cover back on, turned it back on... red screen. Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.


----------



## artyusmce

Its alive again thank you to everyone


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *artyusmce* /forum/post/21160454
> 
> 
> Its alive again thank you to everyone



Congrats! Model number of TV and which version chip did you use?


----------



## CrowT

Wanted to share my thanks and appreciation to all here for helping me bring my Sony back to life! Here's what happened: My KD-34XBR960 had the dreaded 'six-blinks no-power'. I unplugged it for a week and it worked for a day before doing the six blink thing. I'm no electronics tech, and have only done a little soldering, but thought I'd at least look into how to fix the TV. I concluded from reading threads here and other places that the most likely problem were one or both chips on the D board, IC6501 and IC8002. BobF in particular had some great suggestions on fixing them and I followed most of them (should have followed them all, see below). The easy part: Getting to the board and chips. The back cover came off easily, and the whole bottom electronics section slides out. Took a few connections loose and got to the D board. Now the hard part: Getting the chips out and new ones in. I easily located the two ICs (I'd looked up some diagnostics diagrams but really wasn't necessary as these chips are plainly labeled and easy to spot). I used unsoldering braid to remove solder, but couldn't get the chips to come loose. There couldn't have been much holding them, and I finally just wrenched them out with pliers. At this point the TV was a brick anyway and I was getting a little frustrated as I'd been so careful up to this point and it wasn't going to plan. Should have listened to BobF and shelled out cash to get the slim cutters so that each pin could be cut and unsoldered individually. Also should have listened to the advice that if you find yourself rushing and forcing things to stop and come back later. In my case, fortunately, it didn't cost me though I thought it had at the time and didn't find out it didn't until the end. I ordered Shindengen MCZ3001DB replacement chips from B&D Enterprises ($12.10/ea) and this time followed BobF's advice and got 18-pin sockets (3M4818-3000-CP, $.79/ea). Soldering in the sockets was tedious, especially given my novice soldering status, and I worried I was going to solder two legs together but this time took my time and got the sockets installed. It was a bit difficult getting the chips in the sockets but again, using patience, got them in there. Then it was just a matter of connecting everything together again. At this point I wasn't holding out any great hope, but when I hit the power button but knew I'd at least tried. And when the beast actually came back to life, and has come back to life since then, I have gotten a great sense of satisfaction that my efforts paid off. Again, thanks to all on this forum and others that provided me the knowledge, and courage, to get this fix done.


----------



## sboychuck

Well, my 36XBR800 will not turn on and I am getting the 6 and 7 blinking lights. I am the original owner and have taken good care, but I guess one of the IC's went bad. So, I have a new 60GT30 Plasma coming and need to move the beast out of the house. I also have the Sony stand for it as well. This forum has given me some great advise for this tv and my new plamsa.


So, if anyone is interested in the 36XBR800 and wants to do the soldering fix, it is yours for free. That includes the stand. Just send me a message. I live in Thousand Oaks, CA (Southern California). I really do not want to trash it, as the picture was perfect on it. Maybe to just have it for parts? It just will not turn back on and I am not interested with tinkering with it.


Let me know.


Thanks.


----------



## artyusmce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21162089
> 
> 
> Congrats! Model number of TV and which version chip did you use?



36XBR800 and 2- MCZ3001DB chips, I also used the sockets.


Now slight green tint bottom left side of screen and purple/red tint top left side of screen any ideas???


----------



## artyusmce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott91370* /forum/post/21142220
> 
> 
> Too late. Already finished the project.
> 
> 
> We have powered it on/off after running it for a while and letting it warm up.
> 
> 
> So far working perfect!
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone that posted their fixes!!!
> 
> 
> Total cost for parts: $16.25
> 
> Tools $6.00
> 
> Beer/Dinner for payment of repair: $15.00
> 
> 
> Total: $37.25!!!!



any noticeable tinting or discolor issues top and bottom leftside


----------



## snevig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OTAJIM* /forum/post/21156046
> 
> 
> To follow-up on the red screen of death for my 34xbr960, I brought the 200 lb beast to a local pro, and after several diagnostic tests, the TV actually came back to life!! We turned it off again, put the rear cover back on, turned it back on... red screen. Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.



OTAJIM - I had a very similar issue on my KV-34XBR800. Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1359208 . In that thread it was suggested by member neccrttv that the issue is either due to a CRT short (heater to cathode, or H-K short) or a faulty red video driver IC.


Among other things, I tried tapping the CRT neck several times to "fix" the H-K short, and each time the issue returned within a week. Two Saturdays ago I replaced the red video driver IC and so far, a little more than a week later, I haven't had any indications of the red burst a.k.a. red screen-of-death.


I was planning to wait until I tested the solution for at least 2 weeks before I updated my post in the referenced thread, but thought you may want to try what I tried before you give up on your set. Good luck on your repair!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *artyusmce* /forum/post/21169563
> 
> 
> 36XBR800 and 2- MCZ3001DB chips, I also used the sockets.
> 
> 
> Now slight green tint bottom left side of screen and purple/red tint top left side of screen any ideas???



Either the Degauss Cable shifted, magnets or some of wedges around the CRT neck fell. Not sure if the wedges would have any magnetic influence on the tube, they look like plain foam, but try to get them back in their original spots.


----------



## Scott91370




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *artyusmce* /forum/post/21169580
> 
> 
> any noticeable tinting or discolor issues top and bottom leftside



None at all. Set looked exactly as it did before. (see next post for bad news)


----------



## Scott91370




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OTAJIM* /forum/post/21156046
> 
> 
> To follow-up on the red screen of death ... Diagnosis: death by short in picture tube.



Left the house at 6:45pm, came home at 9:15pm and mine now has the red screen and 7 blinks. I can see the picture through the screen for about 2 seconds then it shuts off. I cannot believe this.


How many guys would say, "No, I do not want to buy a new TV."

I really don't. I may cancel my dish sat. service and go without one.


----------



## Scott91370




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snevig* /forum/post/21170254
> 
> 
> OTAJIM - I had a very similar issue on my KV-34XBR800. Check out this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1359208 .
> 
> Good luck on your repair!



I am looking for the part you replaced but am having no luck with TDA6120Q/N2/S1. If I just put in TDA6120Q I find them by RCA, Mitsu and some without other names. Where did you find yours?


You didn't by chance take any pics of this, did you? I have the service manual, but first hand pics are always a good thing.

I was able to bang on the back of the set and it came on.


Thanks for linking to this- I guess I'll be trying another solder job.


----------



## snevig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott91370* /forum/post/21187487
> 
> 
> I am looking for the part you replaced but am having no luck with TDA6120Q/N2/S1. If I just put in TDA6120Q I find them by RCA, Mitsu and some without other names. Where did you find yours?



The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises ( www.bdent.com ) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.



> Quote:
> You didn't by chance take any pics of this, did you? I have the service manual, but first hand pics are always a good thing.
> 
> I was able to bang on the back of the set and it came on.
> 
> 
> Thanks for linking to this- I guess I'll be trying another solder job.



Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.


You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.


Good luck on your repair!


----------



## Scott91370




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snevig* /forum/post/21187944
> 
> 
> The part is a Philips IC. I ordered it from B & D Enterprises ( www.bdent.com ) for $10.59 (US), with a few other items. You may also want to order thermal compound (item no. NTE303), but I just reused the stuff that was on the old IC and heat sink. Delivery was less than a week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, no pictures. On my KV-34XBR800 it is IC9001 on the CX board, which is the board that connects to the neck of the tube. Check the schematic and parts list in your service manual to make sure it is the correct part.
> 
> 
> You may also want to try tapping the tube neck (gently!) with a screwdriver handle. Apparently there are multiple potential causes for the red screen, and what worked for my set may not work for yours.
> 
> 
> Good luck on your repair!




Tapping the back of the TV with the case still on brought it back to life for a few days. This afternoon it happened again so I tapped (read: beat) on the back of the TV but it only stayed on for a few seconds.

I did look at the schematic for my set and it is the same part number so I guess while I am waiting for it to arrive ($15 minimum order for anybody else that is loking) I will be looking for a decent replacement set, just in case.


Thanks for the reply!


----------



## artyusmce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21171576
> 
> 
> Either the Degauss Cable shifted, magnets or some of wedges around the CRT neck fell. Not sure if the wedges would have any magnetic influence on the tube, they look like plain foam, but try to get them back in their original spots.



discoloration went away after a few days as good as new


----------



## dkstout

In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. Thank you.


----------



## TwistedD85

I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.

I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.

But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.

I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory







I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TwistedD85* /forum/post/21232510
> 
> 
> I feel bad for possibly bringing up what's already been delt with, but I'm having a hard time searching for what I need.
> 
> I have a Sony KV-34HS510 that I had die before and give me six or seven blinks of the standby light, which I seemed to fix by replacing the two IC chips on the D-board. My soldering looked top notch, it flowed well and I even had it confirmed by someone that works with electronics on a regular basis, I did indeed do well.
> 
> But on the second time powering up I noticed these jagged black lines jutting into the picture from either side of the screen, randomly, around three or four at a time, jumping in and out of the picture. This problem cleared up for a while, but no more than fifteen minutes later they reappeared and about five minutes later they reappeared in force and began taking over the screen until the picture suddenly lost all of it's horizontal width and became a slender white line down the middle of the TV, then suddenly that too vanished and the TV started flashing the standby light four times again and again.
> 
> I didn't notice it but I was told there was a flash in the proximity of the D-board and a crack when this happened. I haven't opened it back up yet, I'm letting everything discharge for a good while before I even think of working on it, but that's all I have to work on. Could anyone help me figure out just what's wrong and what happened there? Fixing the TV was the pinnacle of my day and this turn of events has turned the whole day into one of the worst in recent memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be grateful for any and all help, I tried searching but all I kept getting were random "four"s and "4"s that had nothing to do with the blinking.


*Might not be the D Board Chips*

The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.


----------



## TwistedD85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21232671
> 
> *Might not be the D Board Chips*
> 
> The chips control the power on after clearing voltage sensing. In your case you had power with the jagged lines before the TV stopped working. Maybe something else got bumped during the repair? The flash does not sound good, some clarity on this? Once you pop the cover, check all the connections and see if any capacitor is swelled up.



I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TwistedD85* /forum/post/21232767
> 
> 
> I'll take a look in a couple days when I can, this was the last moment I had to do it today, that and I'm really fearful of getting the life shocked out of me by this thing. The one who saw it said it looked like arcing, everything looked settled when I put it back in, the only thing that might've been knocked around would've been the lines going to and from the coil/transformer thing on the D-board since I had to twist around the board to get to the bottom of it. But I tried to be careful and I'm sure I plugged everything back in, I really hope nothing else went bad, especially a capacitor. If it is am I going to just replace it or do I have to go for the entire board? Or is the TV toast then? I'm trying so hard to think back and make sure I got everything.



Capacitors are inexpensive and very easy to replace, only two solder points. But wait and see, maybe post a pic of the board and a closeup of the solder job when you take it apart.


----------



## TwistedD85

I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TwistedD85* /forum/post/21236745
> 
> 
> I haven't been able to move the TV to check on it yet, I need a second pair of hands, but I did want to revise my statement. I just misheard what they said, they said they didn't see any flash at any time, although they said they heard what sounded like arcing when the TV did it's thing and died.



That could just be normal, the Degauss does pop when you first turn on the CRT. Please post the pics once you pull the cover off.


----------



## -venom-

I have the kv-40xbr800 and got the 7 blink last week after 8 years of daily use. Replaced IC8002 and installed an ic socket just in case it fails in the future. I purchased 2 extra ICs and sockets for future use.


I used the blue solder sucker and an adjustable soldering iron. I think most are having issues because they are using a pen that is not getting hot enough which requires you to keep it there longer. I set mine to 550d to remove IC and 500d to solder new IC socket. I would only keep it there for only 1 sec which was enough to melt solder. If I needed to reheat I would wait or move to next one and come back to that point after it cooled as not wanting to take a chance. Also if using the solder sucker you do not need to have it right above what you are trying to remove. I found it more effective and quick to have sucker at a *45d angle* right on the board plus on top to the joint and with your other hand apply heat, press to suck. You need to do this quick. It only took me 2 mins to remove all the solder and IC chip without the need of desoldering braid and another 2 min to put new IC.


I big thanks to everyone as I love this TV and very happy I could save it.


----------



## dkstout

Just a Bump. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Currently not working due to the factory reset are Video 4 and Video 7, so I can not view my DVD or use the HighDef Mode. Looking for someone who can provide me with a list of their settings as a guide. On Video 7, which is HighDef, we have sound, but a black sreen. Thank you.


----------



## eye_candy

I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eye_candy* /forum/post/21277685
> 
> 
> I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?



Mine is still holding out, repaired in July. I recommend getting sockets just in case you ever have to do the repair a second time.

*Sony Trinitron WEGA RLOD Twenty Dollar Repair Guide*
*http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1366567*


----------



## eye_candy

I just ordered (2) MCZ3001DB chips and (4) 18-pin IC sockets (2 extra just in case, they were so cheap) total cost $27.18


Any other advise or tools i need other than a soldering iron? Do i NEED a chip puller?

Do i have to Flip the Tv on its face to do this job? Or just let the back end hang off the stand and do the work from underneath?


Thanks!


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eye_candy* /forum/post/21280821
> 
> 
> I just ordered (2) MCZ3001DB chips and (4) 18-pin IC sockets (2 extra just in case, they were so cheap) total cost $27.18
> 
> 
> Any other advise or tools i need other than a soldering iron? Do i NEED a chip puller?
> 
> Do i have to Flip the Tv on its face to do this job? Or just let the back end hang off the stand and do the work from underneath?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


*READ THE OLDER POSTS*

I posted a link to my Guide in my previous Reply. Its right before yours, at the bottom of the previous page.


----------



## GregJG

Wow! I didn't know this was such a big issue with this Lovely CRT. I own a KV34HS420 and I wish I saw this thread earlier. I'm also getting the blinking red lights. As many have posted you hear the sound, no picture and then it clicks off. Got this baby in 04 and I figured she had served me well so 3 days ago I went to BestBuy and bought a Samsung[UN46D6420U] LCD/LED 3D set. I didn't know I could go in and replace the board like that. Being in the IT field I know my way around components.

Well I guess that's it and the BestBuy delivery guys are going to take it away today later this morning free of charge. Hope everyone else hangs in there and get your sets fixed. One of the best sets ever made and will surely be missed.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GregJG* /forum/post/21293459
> 
> 
> Wow! I didn't know this was such a big issue with this Lovely CRT. I own a KV34HS420 and I wish I saw this thread earlier. I'm also getting the blinking red lights. As many have posted you hear the sound, no picture and then it clicks off. Got this baby in 04 and I figured she had served me well so 3 days ago I went to BestBuy and bought a Samsung[UN46D6420U] LCD/LED 3D set. I didn't know I could go in and replace the board like that. Being in the IT field I know my way around components.
> 
> Well I guess that's it and the BestBuy delivery guys are going to take it away today later this morning free of charge. Hope everyone else hangs in there and get your sets fixed. One of the best sets ever made and will surely be missed.


*A good CRT is the brightest pic with no lag*

My condolences, you really should have attempted the repair, especially with your background knowledge. There are first timers here at soldering that have successfully repaired theirs. A shame you let a good TV go to the dump like that.

*THE PARTS ARE LESS THEN TWENTY DOLLARS!*

.


----------



## dkstout

Any help would be greatly appreciated. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Examples are provided below:


As examples, you have the following choices to pick from:


Category Name: 2170P_1 Column Selection Headings:


CV/YC 480i 480p 720p 1080i VGA 1080i 1080i MS


Category Name: 2170P_3 Column Selection Headings:


Comp Comp Comp Comp DVI DVI DVI DVI DVI MS MS

RF CV/YC 480i 480p 1080i 720p 480i 480p VGA 1080i 720p Menu Single Twin


Which should I be using for this TV?


On the two above category names listed above, the initial values are almost all the same, but for other categories, it appears to make a big difference. Does anyone have a cheat sheet for what each Category Name is for?


Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## vadude54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eye_candy* /forum/post/21277685
> 
> 
> I have a 34XBR800 and i will be trying the MCZ3001DB chip repair soon. Question for those who've done this, how has your TV lasted after doing the repair? Still going? or did you have to do this repair a second time?



Mine lasted a year and a half and started up with the 6 blinks again. I have been using the hair dryer for the last 6 months and it always stayed on until last week it went off and couldn't get it back on. I am going to replace the 2 electrolytics and 2 resistors along with the 2 IC's as recommended by Tri State Module this time. Does anyone know which 2 resistors they are as I see more than 2 of the .1 ohm resistors in my set in that area.


----------



## BrokenSonyXBR

I am trying to repair my Sony 40XBR800. I started out with the 6 and 7 blink issue. I installed sockets and inserted new MCZ3001DB chips into both IC6501 and IC8002.


I now get 3 blinks. I have checked and double checked the connections. The old chips also give the 3 blinks now instead of the six or seven as before. I have also tried mixing the chips thinking that perhaps one was defective, but without success.


I removed the chips from the sockets and checked all the conncetions with an ohm meter. The pins with bridges show 0 ohms between the connection and the bridge end point. I also measured the resistance between each adjacent pin and did have two that measured 10kOhm? Even after carefully resoldering the joint, it still measured the same.


Not sure what to make of it and was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Help is much appreciated!


----------



## vadude54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trc5561* /forum/post/20762175
> 
> 
> Thanks to all the great info on this thread got by 34xbr800 back in service last night. Ordered the new chips and went to Radio Shack for the rest of the repair gear...probably 30 bucks for the solder gear and sockets...and 20 for the ICs (bought 4 in case I have to do this again). I did the repair with the board in place and the TV on its face on its stand...resting on several folded blankets. The de-soldering iron from radio shack was very simple to use and sucked the old solder out like a champ...no need for a wick. surprisingly soldering in the vertical was no problem. (if people are new to soldering like I was...there are several videos on youtube that are great teaching aides).
> 
> 
> I did encounter one problem...when I initially installed everything and tried the tv I got the dreaded 3 blinks from the standby light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I re-soldered all the connections thinking I had some bad solders and tested again with the same result. After reading this thread further I noticed many folks advocating pre-installing the chips in the sockets. I had a chip installer but was still apparently missing the correct connection in the sockets. I removed the speaker assembly on that side (only one screw) and got a better angle on it and after a couple tries finally got the ICs properly seated. Amazingly the set turned right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the great advice from everyone and saving my investment!



Here is someone else with 3 blinks after replacing the IC's.


----------



## nota

yes my wega had 6 blinks replaced chips

and it worked for about 2 years

the began blinking again


as I used sockets

I swaped the chips spots

and it worked a few more weeks

THEN WENT TO 3 BLINK MODE

HEATING THE AREA OF THE CHIPS ALLOWED THE TV TO WORK

so I just leave it on now


anyway try the hair dryer trick

and also retry your solder connections


----------



## BrokenSonyXBR

I had previously checked (several times using a volt meter) all of the connections with the sockets I had installed.


After your comments, I removed the sockets (I am getting desperate) and soldered the chips directly trying to illuminate a possible connection problem, still 3 blinks. I then tried the blow dryer trick but with no luck either.


I have ordered an IC6505 (SE140N) which is to arrive in a few days. This is the chip that the diagnostics (3 blinks) says is bad. Perhaps it is defective because I have tried just about everything to validate the repair.


Interestingly, after removing the sockets, I gently cleaned the area and measured resistance across adjacent pins. Without anything installed, some of the pins have 10kOhms although I did not document them. After noting this, since I had noticed the same earlier with the sockets installed which is why I thought the sockets might be the culprits, I knew then that removing the sockets was probably not going to resolve the issue.


----------



## eye_candy

So i tried fixing my 34XBR800 Sat night (for the 6-7 blink problem). I had my 2 sockets and 2 MCZ3001DB chips.

It took awhile to de-solder and solder the chips. Then put everything back together. It took me about 3 1/2 hours total. Hit the power button and............... OMG it worked! good as new! It was a Christmas miracle! Thank you so much to everyone that posted info on the 6-7 blink problem. I have my TV back and i didn't have to buy a crappy looking LCD or Plasma. I will buy some extra MCZ3001DB chips. Now that i installed sockets all the hard work is already done. So if this happens again all i have to do is pop out the old chip and pop in the new. Total repair time will take 15 min.


So this is what i did to fix my Sony KV-34XBR800.


1.Printed CRTGAMER's instructions from this thread.


2.Took off CRT back. (I put the screws in plastic sandwich bag to keep them together)


3.Unplug the connectors from the D-Board.(except for a few, follow CRTGAMER's instructions) Don't for get about the Black connectors that join to the other board. Caution: these don't come off, just lift up enough to it's not connected to the D-Board. (Note: I did NOT flip my TV on it's face. I never moved the TV during this fix.)


4. Unscrew 8 screws from the D-Board. You'll need a small philips to get at some of the screws. (the one closet to the tube was a pain and i did not put that screw back in.)


5.Pull out the D-Board (it's still has a few connections so it won't come totally out.) I pulled it towards me and flipped it so the underneath was exposed.


6.Now here's where your time is taken. Desolder the old chips.


7.Pull them out.


8.Install new sockets. Solder them. Note: 2 pins on each chip can not be soldered. Look to CRTGAMER's pictures to show you which ones. Don't waste your time like i did. They are the same pins for both chips.


9.Install the new MCZ3001DB chips. Be very careful and make sure the pins will fit in the new socket. Advise: I prefit the MCZ3001DB chips with the new socket before i installed the sockets to the D-Board. This makes installation of the new chips much easier.


10.Put everything back together.


11.Hit the power button and hold your breathe.


Cost: $27.18


It worked for me. This is the best picture i've ever seen from any TV.


----------



## JeffD2.

I just ordered the MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from an eBay vendor for $14.99 w/ free shipping. I'll be working on a KV36HS500. I've never done any repairs like this before so it should be quite interesting.


----------



## nota




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrokenSonyXBR* /forum/post/21361269
> 
> 
> I had previously checked (several times using a volt meter) all of the connections with the sockets I had installed.
> 
> 
> After your comments, I removed the sockets (I am getting desperate) and soldered the chips directly trying to illuminate a possible connection problem, still 3 blinks. I then tried the blow dryer trick but with no luck either.
> 
> 
> I have ordered an IC6505 (SE140N) which is to arrive in a few days. This is the chip that the diagnostics (3 blinks) says is bad. Perhaps it is defective because I have tried just about everything to validate the repair.
> 
> 
> Interestingly, after removing the sockets, I gently cleaned the area and measured resistance across adjacent pins. Without anything installed, some of the pins have 10kOhms although I did not document them. After noting this, since I had noticed the same earlier with the sockets installed which is why I thought the sockets might be the culprits, I knew then that removing the sockets was probably not going to resolve the issue.



sorry to hear the blow dryer trick failed

has the IC6505 (SE140N) replacement worked ?


I am also at 3 blinks but the blow dryer worked


does any one know what we are heating /

are we heating the MCZ3001DB's

or why a hot [something] works when cold it doesNOT

and why my wega needs to be heated when it goes off at a power hickcup

after running for days one would think it was hot from being on that long

and should restart without the blow dryer but it will not


I have the new MCZ3001DB chips and am just waiting the next power glich

to replace them now

but as these thing work power has been unreally stable after the chips arrived


----------



## vadude54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vadude54* /forum/post/21355827
> 
> 
> Mine lasted a year and a half and started up with the 6 blinks again. I have been using the hair dryer for the last 6 months and it always stayed on until last week it went off and couldn't get it back on. I am going to replace the 2 electrolytics and 2 resistors along with the 2 IC's as recommended by Tri State Module this time. Does anyone know which 2 resistors they are as I see more than 2 of the .1 ohm resistors in my set in that area.



OK, on further checking this forum I found the 2 resistors to replace were R6526 and R8051. I replaced them and the 2 electrolytic capacitors and put in 2 new IC's but still get 6 blinks. Does anyone know what else could cause the 6 blink problem?


----------



## LiquidSnake

Pretty sure the 6 blink problem is the ICs, so, you should check your work again and again. Use a magnifying glass and a flashlight, I suspect there is a short or a broken connection. Did you install your ICs with a socket?


----------



## vadude54

Yes, I installed the socket and new IC's in 2009 the first time I had a problem. I was getting 7 blinks then and it fixed the problem for a year and a half and then I started getting 6 blinks about 9 months or so ago and I could get the TV to turn on by using a hair dryer and then about a month ago it quit altogether but still get 6 blinks.


----------



## LiquidSnake

It might be prudent to uninstall, and then reinstall your work, and the reason I say this is because with the gradual failure you had, it is possible that you could have made what is called a "cold solder joint" when you installed your last set of sockets/chips. This is what happens when the metal is not heated enough prior to melting the solder to it, the bond is not strong enough and over time, as the circuit is used, it heats and expands, and then contracts when you turn it off, and eventually the connection breaks naturally. Cold solder joints are common problems for first-time work or non-professionals, so don't feel bad about trying this to correct the issue. In the least, it is probably better to give that a go before spending another $20 on more chips.


I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know a couple, and any time I have done work like this, homebrew circuits, custom cables, etc. and had results I did not expect or understand, they all told me, "check your work, check your work, check your work, and then, check your work again." And at least when I had those issues, and I checked and rechecked my work, I did find a fault eventually. Tiny breaks can cause a circuit to just plain stop. If you can spot a break with a magnifying glass and a flashlight then you will know this is the issue. But then the break could be hidden from the angles you are able to view from, too.


Edit: just looked up in the service manual, here is the cause for 6 blinks.


• +5 line is overloaded. (A, B, M Boards)

• +5 line is shorted. (A, B, M Boards)

• IC504 is faulty. (A Board)


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vadude54* /forum/post/21417206
> 
> 
> Yes, I installed the socket and new IC's in 2009 the first time I had a problem. I was getting 7 blinks then and it fixed the problem for a year and a half and then I started getting 6 blinks about 9 months or so ago and I could get the TV to turn on by using a hair dryer and then about a month ago it quit altogether but still get 6 blinks.



There have been repeat repairs on WEGAs, a good reason to use Sockets. Did you install the revised *B* chips or the older ones?


----------



## vadude54

Yes I did use sockets and the B chips. I am going to check the solder joints etc when I get time to work on it again. Thanks guys.


----------



## hemogoblin

Uh oh. I fixed my 7 led blinking / IC problem about a year ago, and now the 960 is not powering up. The standby led flashes 20 times like its trying to start, but nothing ever comes up on the screen.


What could the problem be? No blinking lights, the screen just stays blank.


----------



## carpboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eye_candy* /forum/post/21368799
> 
> 
> I have my TV back and i didn't have to buy a crappy looking LCD or Plasma.



I bought this TV when they first came out, only problem I had was a fuse inside blew, nothing else.


It is being retired to basement old TV-home, as a 60ST30 is coming very soon. Shame there is no market for these, I still have not seen a better picture. It's just too small, especially as I get older. I have to sit on a beanbag on the floor to watch hockey.


Sigh, very very sad.


----------



## JeffD2.

I'm working on the KV36HS500. I barely manipulated the board and the white wire came out of the flyback transformer. Is there a way to reconnect it?

_Edit: Please disregard- I found out the wire must be firmly pushed back into socket._











A couple of notes: There were only 14 screws holding the back cover. Also there were NO PCB screws holding down the D board.


----------



## JeffD2.

*SUCCESS!*


Special thanks to CRTGAMER for the clear and concise tutorial as well as other contributors to this thread.


Everything went extremely well with no major issues. I have *never* soldered anything in my life so the link to the youtube soldering lesson was invaluable. The only thing I would add when using a solder sucker is to nip off any protruding legs from the solder joints before doing the desoldering operation. Once I had done that, desoldering was a breeze and the chips practically fell out.


I must have read CRTGAMER's post at least 10 times to minimize any back and forth. I had all the tools and materials ready and most importantly I took my sweet time doing this.


All I needed Soldering kit delivered $25. Chips & sockets $15 delivered. Can compressed air $4.

Total cost of project: $44.


If I could do this *anyone* can! Thanks again AVS!


----------



## nota




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nota* /forum/post/21405841
> 
> 
> sorry to hear the blow dryer trick failed
> 
> has the IC6505 (SE140N) replacement worked ?
> 
> 
> I am also at 3 blinks but the blow dryer worked
> 
> 
> does any one know what we are heating /
> 
> are we heating the MCZ3001DB's
> 
> or why a hot [something] works when cold it doesNOT
> 
> and why my wega needs to be heated when it goes off at a power hickcup
> 
> after running for days one would think it was hot from being on that long
> 
> and should restart without the blow dryer but it will not
> 
> 
> I have the new MCZ3001DB chips and am just waiting the next power glich
> 
> to replace them now
> 
> but as these thing work power has been unreally stable after the chips arrived



finally reCHIPPED the wega for the second / third time [if you count swapping chip sockets positions ]

and it is now working with a third set of chips


still wondering exactly what the heat does [hairdryer trick]

as that maybe an important clue to the failure mode


a buddy who did air force electronic repairs

said they used freeze spray to cool chip/boards to test for hot failures

but never tryed heat to make stuff work


note I had to re insert the chips in the sockets several times before

the set would stay on [but my on/off power button was depressed/stuck too]

so retry the chip insert if the set still blinks and check other dumb stuff


----------



## TiminIndy

I finally got around to doing the repair on my KV34HS420. Replaced both IC's w/ sockets and it works (for now). Many thanks to all who contributed to this thread. CRTGamer's guide is a very helpful compilation of all this info who don't want to read 55 pages of this forum.


After I triple checked all connections and got it all back together, I plugged it in, LED blinked a few times, and it came on. Picture was as perfect as I remember it. I watched it for a while and turned it off. Worked all day yesterday and when I got home I hit the power button, LED blinked quite a few times and it came on. I didn't get to count, but it was at least 6-7 blinks, so I think this is not a good sign. For years before it quit working, I think there were always some blinks and a delay before it powered up, but never paid that much attention.


Two questions:



Do others get 6-7 blinks after a successful repair? Before the original failure, did you have blinks and a delay?



I decided to check Craigslist for other failed Wega's - my sister is broke but could use a better TV. I found a KF-60WE610 60 inch Sony Grand Wega LCD Projection TV that blinks 6 times and won't power on. Does anyone know if these have the MCZ3001D ?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craigslist* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 60 inch Sony Grand Wega LCD Projection TV. Model number KF-60WE610. The red stand by light blinks six times when you try to turn it on. The lamp is about a year old replaced it myself and still have the box lamp came in.


----------



## JeffD2.

I get 6-7 blinks during power up and degauss with no delay. Audio kicks in almost immediately. But my KV36HS510 has always been this way, even before the repair.


----------



## sclark46

I have xbr450 with the 7 blink problem - I also have 2 service manual and schematics for this set. Anybody interested in any parts for free?


----------



## dkstout

I spent some quality time on Sunday and corrected the program default settings, which I accidently reset to the factory defaults after replacing the chips. My bad.


For my Sony KV36HS500, I assumed 1080i, if not available then 720p, if not available then 480i, if not available then RF, if not available then Other or Single when going through the settings. Then I went to the Video 7 to confirm that I could see the picture and the HiDef was setup correctly. Then I fine-tuned the horizontal and vertical settings under 2170D_1 and 2170D_2. Then I went to Video 5 (My DVD Player) and did the same. Then I went to my cable in (default) and did the same. When doing this, it is wise to have a hard copy of the appropriate pages of the service manual in front of you so that you can mark with a pencil what you have selected. If the section does not work correctly, then you have a point of reference. When you are done, you have a hard copy of your settings.


The resolution never look so good. Thanks to this website and the Sony Service Manual, I will get many more years out of my Sony KV32HS500.


----------



## TwistedD85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRTGAMER* /forum/post/21237000
> 
> 
> That could just be normal, the Degauss does pop when you first turn on the CRT. Please post the pics once you pull the cover off.



Just poking my head in the thread to say I'm still here and I want to fix it, it's just been real busy the past few months and I'm the only one strong enough to lift this thing off it's stand. But unfortunately that's about all I can do, I can't get it to the floor, I can't carry it through a door, and there's not enough room in front of the stand to work on it there. I'm about to get some room sometime soon so I should be back on the job and asking questions soon enough.


----------



## JeffD2.

I left mine on the stand and was able to turn the 235 lb. beast 180° by myself for access. Worked out fine







.


----------



## tveli

34XBR2 was 7-blinking this week, wouldn't power up. temps were cold. it had done it a couple times years previously. i got it turned on yesterday however - the room was significantly warmer.

i'll be ordering the replacement ICs & stuff, but in the meantime maybe I'll just leave it turned on 24x7 ... :|


----------



## moose75

My Sony KV32FS120 seems to be having a problem it will turn on for a split sec then no picture. Sometimes if i cycle thru the inputs it will come back and stay going sometimes not.i get the 5 blink red light something to do with the video.


From what i have read it could be t the ic's on the red,green and blue going bad. where on the board are these and doing the more reading doing the 20 dollar fix has fixed the problem for some people as well. so where to begin? ? The tv isn't HD but is still a nice tv non the less and if it can be fixed fairly cheap i would rather do that then pay to have it hauled away.


----------



## TwistedD85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffD2.* /forum/post/21599903
> 
> 
> I left mine on the stand and was able to turn the 235 lb. beast 180° by myself for access. Worked out fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Stand is actually about half an inch smaller than the TV on the horizontal plane and in no way capable of handling me turning it. It's actually what I think is an older Ikea stand with thin metal legs, I've had to reinforce it to handle the TV. It doesn't really have the room or strength for me to turn it on top of it.


----------



## Scott33308

What a great forum. Thanks to everyone who posted information on how to fix the issues with the MC3001DB chips. My Sony Wega failed to where it would no longer turn on and i was first receiving 6 blinks that later changed to 7 blinks. Then I found this forum!


I have never soldered a circuit board before but I'm not afraid to take on a challenge. The posts were very helpful - i don't remember all the names but thanks BobF, Robert, CRTGAMER and others. I read the "repair manual", the Pinball soldering post, and everyones experiences. Armed with that knowledge I acquired everything I needed - including buying one of the Tenma soldering stations from the Pinball guide - I consider it an investment. I practiced my soldering skills on practice sockets a few times before moving on the to actual TV.


Following all of the information here it was easy to step through the proccess to replace the chips. I do have one bit of advice for others attempting this. I have read where many used the desoldering braid to remove the old solder. Using this took me a day and a half of painstaking work to get out the first chip. While the braid was OK in my practice jobs it didnt work well at all on the actual TV board. The old solder needed more heat and the braid seemed to transfer the heat 4-5 inches up the braid to the point that I couldnt hold the braid and it was melting the round plastic holder it is in, and still the existing solder wouldnt melt. Well I struggled through the first chip but then I needed more braid. So while I was in Radio Shack buying more braid I also saw their desoldering iron. 45watts, has a suction bulb, and only $11. Best investment I ever made. I was able to remove the 2nd chip in 10 MINUTES! I did use the braid for some minor clean up around 3 or 4 of the the holes but the desoldering iron was awesome. Radio Shack part# 64-2060.


I saw where another user said they tested the continuity after soldering and I thought that sounded like a good idea, especially to the connected leads. Good thing! I broke out my seldom used digital multimeter and found that on one of the solder joints that had a connection to another lead - I did not have continuity to the other end of that lead. So I resoldered and verified continuity. My repair could have failed I would never have known why.


I did purchase a small set of shears that I saw recommended to cut the legs on the old chips for removal but even with these small shears I couldnt do it. But after checking each leg carefully that it had free movement I had no problem removing it. In fact the 2nd chip basically fell out (again that desoldering iron!)


My Sony is again running great. In fact I think the color even looks richer. I dont know if failing chips can affect the color or not but i swear I have better color saturation.


Again thanks to everyone here. I hope my experience can help those that follow. If you can find this form you can repair the TV.


-Scott in Ft Lauderdale


----------



## NomoreRGS

My KD34XBR960 has the two blink problem and does not stay powered on. The repair schematic suggests transistors Q5003 and Q5030 may be shorted. I replaced both but the problem persists. When I plug it in I hear it degauss, then see the two blinks, a relay click and it turns off then back on. This repeats until the power cable is unplugged.


I tried the hair dryer trick but it did not help. I didn't think it would since It's not the six or seven blink problem. The three blink problem shuts down the AC relay which seems to be happening. Is there a chance that I'm not seeing the three blinks? Could the power be shut off before the third blink is displayed? If I leave the TV plugged in after the first few cycles the second blink becomes shorter to the point it almost looks like one blink.


I also went to Sony's website for service and found two company's that do service for Sony in my area. One was in home and the other was 40 miles away. The in home service company said they no longer service this model. I didn't even call the other place since moving it and transporting it 40 miles, twice, is not very likely for me with a bad back. I called Sony and the representative said the I could call PC Richards since The place I bought it is no longer in business (Circuit City). I called PC Richards and found it was $90 for a home visit and diagnosis plus whatever it costs to fix it, or if I brought it to them it would be $30 for a diagnosis and that would be put towards the repair if I had it done. He then said that parts may not be available. I can imagine since one of the transistors was hard to find.


I love the TV and the cable card feature. But now CRT's and cable cards are a thing of the past. I also hate the cable company's must have tuner box. I'm not exactly sure where to go from here and would prefer not to send it to the landfill, buy a flat panel and have to use the cable box with it.


Any ideas?


----------



## james denoil

thanx


----------



## thich

update on my KV34XBR910. it now flashes a 2 code, and the image is acting funny. i hate to get rid of it, but i dont think i have it in me to fix it again. if any one wants it they can have it, or help me figure out whats wrong with it.

my original post.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1206


----------



## NomoreRGS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NomoreRGS* /forum/post/21795712
> 
> 
> My KD34XBR960 has the two blink problem and does not stay powered on. The repair schematic suggests transistors Q5003 and Q5030 may be shorted. I replaced both but the problem persists. When I plug it in I hear it degauss, then see the two blinks, a relay click and it turns off then back on. This repeats until the power cable is unplugged.
> 
> 
> I tried the hair dryer trick but it did not help. I didn't think it would since It's not the six or seven blink problem. The three blink problem shuts down the AC relay which seems to be happening. Is there a chance that I'm not seeing the three blinks? Could the power be shut off before the third blink is displayed? If I leave the TV plugged in after the first few cycles the second blink becomes shorter to the point it almost looks like one blink.
> 
> 
> I also went to Sony's website for service and found two company's that do service for Sony in my area. One was in home and the other was 40 miles away. The in home service company said they no longer service this model. I didn't even call the other place since moving it and transporting it 40 miles, twice, is not very likely for me with a bad back. I called Sony and the representative said the I could call PC Richards since The place I bought it is no longer in business (Circuit City). I called PC Richards and found it was $90 for a home visit and diagnosis plus whatever it costs to fix it, or if I brought it to them it would be $30 for a diagnosis and that would be put towards the repair if I had it done. He then said that parts may not be available. I can imagine since one of the transistors was hard to find.
> 
> 
> I love the TV and the cable card feature. But now CRT's and cable cards are a thing of the past. I also hate the cable company's must have tuner box. I'm not exactly sure where to go from here and would prefer not to send it to the landfill, buy a flat panel and have to use the cable box with it.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Well it's gone. A few weeks ago I put it out to the curb with a note describing the problem. The next day someone picked it up. Hope they can fix it. Replaced it with a Samsung UN46ES8000.


----------



## Mudzy

Wooooo Hoooo!!!!

Add one more success to the 6-7 blink issue.


My KV-40XBR800 started having issues earlier this week with not turning in. Eventually stopped turning on at all.


I lucked out in finding this, and other similar forums discussing this problem just yesterday.


Picked up the 2 MCZ3001DB's from a local guy, who is actually within walking distance from my home, earlier thus afternoon. After about 1/2 hour of work I had my XBR once again working like a charm.


Thank you to Mark and Bob and everyone else that posted about this problem.


----------



## PACIFICMAN

I just wanted to post up and say Thanks to this forum and EclipseDave in particular. I have a KV34-XBR800 that had the 6 blink syndrome. I got the upgraded chips and sockets off Ebay($17 delivered). I got the simple de-solder bulb from Radio Shack($6). I took my Dremel tool with cut off wheel and I opened up post #108 of this thread. By studying the text and photos and working carefully I was able to remove and replace the soldered in ICs with Sockets and pressed in ICs. The TV(which I Love) now functions Beautifully! Total cost, about $23, all in. It only took about 1 hour. 20 minutes to open up the set and cut out the plastic support bar and 40 minutes to R and R the ICs and re assemble the TV. I had some quotes of $300 for this job from "experts". I am somewhat handy, do my own car. bike and boat service/maint., some construction experience. I have done some electrical work, stereo installs in cars. I had soldered some speaker wires and minor Model Railroading wiring. But with the guidance I found on her I was able to do this job! So far, So good. Thanks Again!


----------



## DouglasC

Hello, it sure seems like a lot of Sony problems are being solved here! I have done several searches trying to find what a 9 flash code means on a Sony KV-32FS120 with no luck.

It was manufactured March 2006. I loved that heavy old TV! I have a lot of experience soldering but none on a TV.


Any help will be appreciated---DouglasC


----------



## VideoRookie

SUCCESS!!


Add one more to the list of successful rookies at TV repair. We have a KV36HS500 and had the 6 to 7 blink standby light code. Found your troubleshooting thread and away I went. I didn't really have much trouble with the repair....probably due the several hours reading up on the subject in this thread. THANKS a million to all who posted here and gave us rookies the confidence to tackle the repair. Fairly funny story about several co-workers suggesting to throw away the TV, but only because they've never experienced a TV with good sound and HD all rolled into one. We have two LED TV's in the house...they do not compare to the "beast". Once again. thanks to all for their help.


----------



## jelloslug

I could use some guidance. I'm working on a 34xbr960. It started out giving an increasingly more frequent 7 blink problem. I purchased the replacement chips and sockets and had an electronics tech at work install the sockets for me. Now I have the "3 blinks and no power on problem". I have gone over the board for shorts, retouched the solder joints on the sockets, checked continuity from the pins of the installed chips to the solder joints on the back side of the board and even swapped in the old chips. I found no issues and have had no change in the problem. Any assistance would be grateful. Here are some pics of the solder joints as it sits now:


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jelloslug*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1650#post_22880473
> 
> 
> I could use some guidance. I'm working on a 34xbr960. It started out giving an increasingly more frequent 7 blink problem. I purchased the replacement chips and sockets and had an electronics tech at work install the sockets for me. Now I have the "3 blinks and no power on problem". I have gone over the board for shorts, retouched the solder joints on the sockets, checked continuity from the pins of the installed chips to the solder joints on the back side of the board and even swapped in the old chips. I found no issues and have had no change in the problem.



The solder points all look clean. Did you purchase the revised B model chips?


Double check every connector you removed going to the PCB by unplugging and replugging back in.


Not a good idea putting in the old chips into the sockets which may have widened the connectors due to the old chip legs coated with solder. Make sure any stray solder did not get scraped off inside the sockets.


Try switching the two new chips into the opposite socket, scrutinize the direction of the beveled end.


----------



## iforsevilla

One trick to make sure you have a solid solder on each pin is to shine a light behind the chip then look at your soldering job. It will reveal if there are gaps in them. Good luck.


----------



## bejo

my sony projection tv is not working.the power light blinking red colour.whe i am switcing on around hundred times tv will start realy what is the problem please help me


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bejo*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1650#post_23027598
> 
> 
> my sony projection tv is not working.the power light blinking red colour.whe i am switcing on around hundred times tv will start realy what is the problem please help me



Your post is confusing, maybe preview it before posting?


You mentioned a Rear Projection TV, Model number? Did you try replacing the lamp yet?


----------



## wfdTamar

Hi. I'm in Australia and got the KV-HR36M31 (which is our version of the XBR960 (I think it is) - 36" super fine pitch). Got it new in 2005. Got the 10 blink thing a few days after the 5 year warranty ranout (typical!). Managed to fix it as per the 2 IC process here. The picture was a bit wonky but only showed when viewing soming straight like an EPG, so I wasn't fussed.


Now, although it's still going ok (and I watch a lot of TV), it has a reddish flaring/ghosting to the right of any white part of the picture. Anyone know what that is?


----------



## LiquidSnake

It sounds like the convergence is off. This can be adjusted via the service menu, but before you try that, please write down all service menu settings, or at least take photos of every one. Your television's service menu settings are unique, and if you happen to take one too far and screw it up, you will never be able to get it back to the starting point. Because your tv's settings are unique, nobody will be able to tell you what they are, don't be one of "those guys" who screws up their TV then searches everywhere for default settings that don't exist, document your current settings before trying anything.


Additionally, I should mention that sometimes, bad capacitors or other parts can cause bad convergence, but it is likely easier to try service menu options to focus the red beam before swapping parts inside your TV.


----------



## DouglasC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DouglasC*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1650#post_22763895
> 
> 
> Hello, it sure seems like a lot of Sony problems are being solved here! I have done several searches trying to find what a 9 flash code means on a Sony KV-32FS120 with no luck.
> 
> It was manufactured March 2006. I loved that heavy old TV! I have a lot of experience soldering but none on a TV.
> 
> 
> Any help will be appreciated---DouglasC



Hello again, I have been re-reading this thread and I still have had no luck finding what the 9 flash code means or even if this set is repairable. Taking up space in the shop so I suppose going to the dump is in it's near future.


----------



## wfdTamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1650#post_23062160
> 
> 
> It sounds like the convergence is off. ........
> 
> 
> Additionally, I should mention that sometimes, bad capacitors or other parts can cause bad convergence, but it is likely easier to try service menu options to focus the red beam before swapping parts inside your TV.



Thanks. It's not just a red edge to things but a smear a few inches across. I think I'll take it to a repair shop and if fixable for a reasonable amount get it properly calibrated too.


----------



## CRTGAMER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DouglasC*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1650#post_23064048
> 
> 
> Hello again, I have been re-reading this thread and I still have had no luck finding what the 9 flash code means or even if this set is repairable. Taking up space in the shop so I suppose going to the dump is in it's near future.



Why not attempt the power detection chip replacement? Its only around a twenty dollar investment.


----------



## Willkiser

SUCCESS! KV-36XBR800 ....six or seven blinks, bwump, click, click and would not turn on. Two MCZ3001DB chips replaced and sockets installed (from B&D on Ebay), and I'm back 100%. I am familiar working with ICs, but I still bent 1 pin when installing one, so be attentive to detail- it's a small place to work in. Thank you very much gentlemen for the powerful information contained herein this topic thread. William Kiser


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I have a 34XBR800 that is 2 months shy of 10 years old since I bought it. A few years ago, it died with the standby light problem and I fixed it by replacing a fuse. Last night, it suddenly shut off. I was able to turn it back on, but the picture was very soft, then turned red and shut off again with the Standby light blinking. I turned it back on again, and the same thing happened, but the red screen had horizontal lines and it turned off again. After an hour or so, I tried again and it stayed on for 10-15 minutes before turning off again. I turned it on again, and it stayed on for over an hour with perfect picture again. This morning I was able to turn it on and it worked fine for the 5 minutes before I had to turn it off and run off to work. Is this a sign that the fuse is about to go or the tube about to die, or what?


Edit: This morning it turned off again after being on for only a few minutes. When I turned it back on, there was a red screen again before it turned right off. A 2nd time it turned on ok. Anybody know what these symptoms are?


----------



## HDTimeShifter

This morning my 34XBR800 shut off almost as soon as I turned it on. It did it a few more times, usually with a red screen before going off with the Standby light blinking. I was able to get it to stay on after a few tries. Has anyone else experienced the red screen? I'll try re-reading through all 1675 posts for this symptom, but it's going to take a while.


----------



## Red5Five

*34XBR960n For Sale. Chicagoland area.
*

I've got a KD34XBR960n that I'm ready to pass on. It has served us well these years, but after losing a brave fight to the 7 Blinks-of-Death I've come to the sad realization that it is time to pull the plug.


Before it heads off to the e-recycler I thought I'd offer it here first. If you need a project, this is it. I'm pretty sure the IC chips have gone bad and need replacing.


If I could get $100 or so in exchange it would soothe the pain of loss.


PM me please.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Well my 34XBR800 worked fine for another week without symptoms, then one day it shut off, and I had to turn on, and it shut off on me. It did that a few times, then I got it working. It worked for a few more days, then one day the same shut off problems. It works for about a week, then will either have the multiple shut off problem or shut off once or twice and stay on for hours. I noticed some times the white menu screen for my cable box DVR is tinged light blue in areas. Tonight I noticed that and also noticed peoples faces are kind of bluish purple - is one of my RGB guns dying? But wait, after turning it off for a few hours, when I turned it back on later, it was all fine.


I'm giving up on the set and just ordered a plasma replacement. When it arrives sometime in the next 10 days, the Sony CRT will be free for the taking in Denver. PM me if you would like to take it and I'll let you know as soon as its replacement has arrived. Any cash donation would be appreciated, but not required.


----------



## dazz87

My Dad's 36xbr800 starting having the 6-7 blinking light issue. I read this thread and follow the steps and was able to fix the TV!!!! Like some people here I just ended up just installing one of the IC on the D board (IC 8002). My order came with sockets too and just wondering do i need to install this on the board? I just soldering the IC's on the board. Seems like the TV is fine now just confused about the socket. Just want to thank everyone here for their help.....


----------



## anthony42992

Apologies in advance for not reading through all 56 pages but my KD-34XBR960 is not turning on and the standby light does not blink at all. What gives? Thanks!


----------



## LiquidSnake

Shot power supply?


----------



## Floydage

And any lights at all? Hear anything like a hum from the chassis? Gun of the CRT glowing?

Many if not all sets and other electronics have a fuse inside, usually near where the AC power comes in. They can get blown by an AC line power surge, lightning, etc.


----------



## anthony42992

No lights at all, no hum from the chassis. Not sure what is meant by the gun of the CRT glowing but the TV shows no signs of life whatsoever. How does one go about diagnosing a shot power supply or a fuse? I will say it did stop turning on after a thunderstorm. Hope this helps!


----------



## LiquidSnake

If you are not up to taking the back of your TV off and poking around, then fixing this is not for you. You will have to take it apart and get to the power supply, unplug it, take the bolts out and remove it to try and go over it. Look for any burns, any bulging capacitors, and a fuse. A fuse is a very obvious piece. It's a little glass tube with two metal caps, one on each end. There's a tiny thin wire in the middle. If it's burned, melted or just not together then the fuse is blown. This will stop the power supply from functioning at all. The other stuff will be about as simple to spot. Lightning strikes can zap parts in any electronic equipment, and will usually be seen as burn marked on the circuit board. It is also possible that other parts inside the CRT could have been damaged, but as you said this issue happened after a storm, and that the unit has no sign of life at all, it is most likely the power supply in some way at fault.


If you cannot find anything wrong with the power supply, it might be worth your time to try and source another, but as the best place to do this is from another TV, this might actually mean buying another TV. In this day and age that is a gamble. The "new" CRT you find may not be as well kept as your own, the owner may not have his head screwed on right as to its value (or maybe they like CRTs almost as much as you do) so they want too much for it, etc. etc. For this reason it may also not be a bad idea to call around and find a TV repair shop. If you can find one that has been in business for at least five years, then you are sure to find someone who has worked on CRTs before and can identify the problem.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Every month or so, someone in my city gives away a working large screen CRT TV. Just today, someone offered up a 40" Mitsubishi. I see 36" and 40" (often Sonys) offered up all the time. In fact, I will be giving away my 34XBR800 in a few days - it powers off with the blinking standby light problem every so often, and I think one of the ray guns is going bad, but the power supply seems to be fine as once I get it turned back on, it will stay on for hours. So I'd look for one of these free TVs. I don't know if the 34XBR960 uses the same power supply as a 34XBR800, though.


----------



## Floydage

Sometimes the neck of the picture tube can be seen through vent slots in the case and if the tube is getting any power you'll see a filament glow in the neck (like a toaster wire heating).

Another half-ass way to see if it's drawing current is to plug a lamp into the same AC outlet and observe if the lamp flickers when plugging in and attempting to power up the TV (although TV circuit has to be working enough to draw a minimal amount of current to make the lamp flicker). The fuse is probably good if you observe any of this as the only current that would bypass a fuse would be very low (standby, remote control sensor, etc. circuitry).


If you're not electrically savvy the fuse is about as far as I would suggest you go (see LiquidSnake's reply). Also, some fuses are ceramic (solid white, no glass) so you can't see if they're blown inside unless they completely blew up; in this case they have to be measured for continuity or just replaced. If it's a blown fuse and you replace it and it blows again or the TV still doesn't work then the problem went deeper than hoped.


The fuse should be connected to the same wiring as the incoming power cord. Of course unplug power. Also, avoid the thick wire (usually red or black) that attaches to the side of the picture tube and its connections as high voltage is stored in the picture even when the TV is unplugged (a real shocker but not a killer, similar to getting shocked by a car's spark plug wire).


----------



## jiangster

Success! Thank you all for everyone's super helpful comments! I completely forgot my camera, so I'm sorry, no pictures. I don't have any prior soldering experience, but I have been practicing on a couple of old electronics I found lying around.


GUIDE: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1366567/sony-trinitron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide 


- TV Model: Sony KV-40XBR800

- I replaced BOTH MCZ3001D chips with the newer MCZ3001DB

- The locations on the D Board are IC8002 and IC6501

- Soldering Kit: http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electronics-ST-12-Soldering-Tool/dp/B0002LLWZY 

- Sockets: Yes

- I was going to cut the plastic under the TV, but the model I have is over 300 lbs and didn't want to risk throwing out my back putting the TV on its side.

- Following the guide that someone else had previously posted, I was able to easily remove the D-board and put it in its service position.


(DE)SOLDERING:

I used the pump included with the kit that I bought from Amazon and was able to quickly remove both IC's. I most frustrating part was soldering the sockets back on. The upright position of the board definitely made it more difficult. Not to mention I was only using a solder from a $12 kit. When practicing I was able to quickly solder the parts on and DE-soldering was the hard part. When it came time to do it on the TV it was the reverse... but with a bit a patience I was able to do it.


ISSUES:

Aside from soldering the new parts in, the only other issue I had was lifting one of the transition blocks. The one located closest to the BACK of the TV. (Shown in the top right in the picture below)

 

* Image was taken from the guide.


USEFUL SOLDERING VIDEOS:

Before my soldering kit came in, I youtube'd some videos. Here are the most helpful and useful ones I found for any soldering beginners out there that need a good place to start:

- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY 

- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZkc8GgmVuc 


Thank you all, and if anyone has any questions, please let me know!


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I have a 34XBR800 which has developed the red screen/shut off with 7 times blinking standby light problem (see related thread here). You have to power cycle once to a few times when this happens, but will stay on for hours and won't repeat the problem for days afterwards. It's in Denver, free for whoever wants it. PM me.


----------



## veggav

I really hope someone can help me out.


I have soldering experience but not so much experience with TVs.


My KV-40XBR800 came with two MCZ3001D and the ones I found here were MCZ3001DB not sure if this maybe the cause of the problem.

I was having the 6 blinks issues and the tv would power on with a cold boot power on.


So I used sockets and replaced the ICs. Now I have the famous 3 blinks.


But it's not like descripted on the service manual 3 blinks stop 3blinks. It's 3 blinks and stop. You need to press the power button to try to start the tv again.

I've tested with a multimeter using the buzz function to see if I could find a path on the board for all the pins I've soldered.

All pins are connected, except pin 18 in ones of the ICs.

I've looked into the service manual and it seems this pin really goes nowhere.


So I think it's fine.


I've tried changing the ICs from one socket to another with no success.


I'm not the best solder in the world but this is the end result:
 

 


Here's a video of the problem.

I pressed the power button twice on the remote:



You can hear the TV making a click when I press the power button.


Any ideas?


EDIT: It seems pins 9 and 10 on the IC8002 are soldered together, they are not, it's just the camera angle.


----------



## jdre

I came across this post kind of late...It looks you have solder bridged across 10 and 11 on the upper picture, check with ohm meter. Also check pin 4 on the other one is only soldered on the same trace. Make sure no bent pins on IC and they are both in the right orientation. Then, try again


----------



## hvc700mbuyer

I too have the 6 blink failure. It started with the TV taking 2 "on" button pushes to turn on...that lasted for about a week. Then it would not turn on at all....6 blinking lights.


I tried the hairdryer trick on the lower vent...and it turned on! So for about 2.5 weeks we have not turned the TV off.....then twice the TV turned off and came on by itself when I was out of town...so I could not diagnose what happened (my wife didn't think to look at the blinking light.)



Well this morning...TV was off from being on left on all night, of course. 6 blinking lights......hairdryer trick is not working.


I'm not sure why it was turning itself off.....overheating from being on for 24/7 perhaps?

The first time we had a blackout the same would have occurred I guess :-(



I have the two IC chips but need to buy a soldering gun, I am familiar with a couple of websites with the tutorials how to solder the chips....

....I'm not looking forward to this due to a lack of skill and patience...I have never soldered anything except a stray toy here and there and then I had an ugly blob of solder to connect the wires.


Any comments to help would be appreciated!


D


----------



## Robocop2

Hello all. First of all let me say thanks for this whole thread. Alot of great information here!


I was hoping that someone could help me or offer some suggestions. My XBR800 started to experience random shutdowns about 6 months ago with symptoms similar to the ones described here. Occasionally the screen would flash red and shut down but I could usually re-start it immediately. Fast forward to today and it won't turn on. For a while it would briefly flash red with a squiggly line and shut down but now, nothing. I tried the fix first but was getting 3 flashes and nothing. Checked my work and found a few pins which got bad joints; fixed that and accidentally had the front chip outside of its sockets by one set of pins after the first attempt to power it on. Fixed that and it would start up but the red screen was back. Tried moving the chips around and now it will click a few times try to degauss and shut back down with no other response other than the 6-7 blink codes. I bought a new amp circuit for the red gun and installed it tonight but it still won't fire off not even a flash on the screen. Do you think its possible that I either fried one of the IC's or got a bad one?


----------



## kareverycd

I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info. thank you


----------



## kareverycd

I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info. thank you


----------



## kareverycd

I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info. thank you


----------



## kareverycd

I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info. thank you


----------



## Floydage

Deja vu all over again.


----------



## wes3

I didn't see whether anyone replied to this, but our D-board looks quite similar ... in other words, the two chips are not parallel to each other and are found in opposite sides of the board. In addition, there seems to be one huge difference between all the photos I've seen on this and other forums ... in all those photos, two pins were left unsoldered on both sets. On our D-board (as in this photo), it appears all the connections are soldered. There are no open pins.


Because of the working conditions where are TV is located, we plan to disconnect the D-board completely and take it to a work bench to try to do the soldering. We've had the TV for at least 14 years ... picture went out, accompanied by the seven blinks, just this past weekend. We have the set apart and the D-board separated from the other one and all the connections removed but one set of difficult-to-remove pins toward the front of the board and then the two wires from the FBT. Anyone else have sets in which all the pins are soldered? (We plan to use sockets if we're successful in removing the chips. As the original poster, to whom I replied, wrote ... the one chip is EXTREMELY difficult to get at because of the closeness of other components to it.


----------



## wes3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcll*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...ht-blinks-help-and-suggesti/720#post_17017945
> 
> 
> Amazing thread, tons of great information.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a Sony with 6 blinks, but the D board layout is a bit different than all the XBR800 pics I've seen in the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Its an XBR400, the two ICs are not parallel to each other like on the XBR800, but a bit skewed and further apart. Here is what it looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also IC6501 is almost impossible to pull without removing the D board, there are tall U-shaped metal parts on the component side blocking access to that IC from any angle other than directly above it.
> 
> 
> 
> The TV is laid down on its face. I'd like to do the repair with the D board in place and keep all the connectors hooked up. I've left the set unplugged for a day or two. There is no problem with leaving all the connectors hooked up while desoldering/soldering ICs right?
> 
> 
> 
> If I can get away with just replacing IC8002 it would be great, I've already cut the plastic away for access to IC6501 in case that one is the bad IC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My main question is about desoldering, I'm a novice at this. Is it safe to use the Radio Shack desoldering tool for this repair? Its 45W and I've read it could overheat and damage the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a small board and a few IC sockets to practice with, soldered/desoldered/soldered them a bunch of times now. I've found the 45W desoldering tool does an amazingly clean job at desoldering, I try to keep the tip on the pad for less than a second and it still manages to reflow the solder and suck it out very cleanly. Is this tool safe to use on the Sony D board if used quickly?
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried the desoldering braid but it seems not to work nearly as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips would be great, thanks!




WES3: I meant to include this message in the one I just posted ... about not having open pins on the chips ... but forgot to quote the message. Here was the message I was referencing.


----------



## loopback

3 years and 7 months after the 1st repair, the TV didn't turn on today. totally bummed out ! but i knew i took the time to install the sockets so it was somewhat easier to replace both ICs on the DZ board. luckily i had bought four but now i am out. i m debating if i should order more or perhaps finally say goodbye to the TV and buy a new flatscreen Panasonic..


it didn't took long to reach a decision. ofcourse i am keeping the TV







i think its a great TV! just hope that it doesn't break down anytime soon.


----------



## loopback

TSM is out of stock for MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC.

doh.


----------



## Floydage

Hmmm, it appears this fix is a band-aid if the problem occurs again after repair. Does anyone know what the actual design flaw is? (I'm assuming it's not a manufacturing flaw or the fix would cure it for good).


----------



## wes3

Well ... we were unable to get all the solder out of the sockets (though we thought we had) and when we tried to remove the chip (even a chip-puller [from Radio Shack] was too big to get in at the chip on our board), we pulled up some of the solder pad ... DONE!


So Wednesday of this week, a new Samsung LED 8000 arrives and the old Sony will be out the door ... we tried! (The Samsung deal even came with a 29-inch LED set), so though we're out a lot more than the $25 I spent for two chips (and sockets) and a solder-puller, we're looking forward to the new flat-panel.


Anyone interested in the chips? Never even taken from the bag.


----------



## LiquidSnake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23591576
> 
> 
> Hmmm, it appears this fix is a band-aid if the problem occurs again after repair. Does anyone know what the actual design flaw is? (I'm assuming it's not a manufacturing flaw or the fix would cure it for good).



If you will look back a month or two you will find a thread I started after finding a YouTube video on fixing an XBR800. At the comments section someone replied that the two chips which commonly fail, will continue to fail unless a third chip is replaced. The trouble is, that person never replied to my request for which chip it happens to be, and never posted again.


----------



## loopback




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wes3*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23593037
> 
> 
> Anyone interested in the chips? Never even taken from the bag.



well i might be. send me PM to figure out how. thx.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23595530
> 
> 
> If you will look back a month or two you will find a thread I started after finding a YouTube video on fixing an XBR800. At the comments section someone replied that the two chips which commonly fail, will continue to fail unless a third chip is replaced. The trouble is, that person never replied to my request for which chip it happens to be, and never posted again.



I thought something smelled rotten in Denmark. Based on that the culprit appears to be either a vendor's faulty chip or Sony improperly designed their circuit around that chip (hopefully it's the former). Trying to remember what I've seen thus far - is this power supply control circuitry?


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23598730
> 
> 
> is this power supply control circuitry?


I think nobody really knows, although there's probably some wild guesses.

I have been unable to find the datasheet for this IC online, and I think nobody else has either.

So this IC could be for power control or power monitoring or some combination function.


There's misinformation on the two versions of the IC.

Some have written that one is the "improved version" of the other, but all we really know is that the second version is a revision. The revision could have been for cost reduction or change in manufacturing process or ???

Sony installed both versions of the IC in production TVs, and both versions can fail.


This is the first mention I've read of a "root cause" chip, so I'm a bit skeptical.

I tend to regard these failures as most likely a case of operating the IC at or near its design parameters, and therefore susceptible to failure after several years of operation. I have a Sony HDTV still with its original ICs (knock on wood!), so they are not guaranteed to fail


Regards


----------



## Floydage

Thanks for the info blue_z.

I was more referring to the functional block of the Sony schematic.

I would think Sony MTBF-analyzed the crud out of their designs; and the major schematic capture tools are easily capable of this (for a 'small' extra fee







).


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23598932
> 
> 
> I would think Sony MTBF-analyzed the crud out of their designs.


I have seen some examples that don't support that idea, i.e. common failure modes after several years of operation based on type of product.

This IC issue on CRT HDTVs is one example of a common failure.

A friend had a convergence problem on his Sony rear projector TV. Web searching indicated that this was a common symptom/problem caused by failed video amplifiers. Risked $50 for replacement amp modules, and the repair was successful.

I have a Sony ES surround sound pre/pro unit that has had power supply issues. A web site dedicated to this unit mentioned this common failure, and prescribes replacement of a few opto-isolators for repair. The first repair was good for a few years, but a second repair lasted only a few weeks before the unit failed (w/the same symptoms) for the third time. There's something that's overloading this power circuit.


Professionally I've only worked with MIL-SPEC or at least industrial-grade electronics. Those units use components that are de-rated; components are operated well below their stated limits of temperature, dissipated power, voltage, etc.

These Sony units are consumer-grade electronics. I assume that manufactured cost control is job #1, and components do not get de-rated.


How many years out should a MTBF analysis go for consumer-grade electronics? Five years seems generous when there's only a one-year warranty.

But such an analysis is only as good as your assumptions.

Do you account for dust buildup on the PCBs that will increase heat retention?

Do you account for installation in a media cabinet that will increase operating temperature?

Maybe you design & build for the worst case so that MTBF is more than the warranty period.

But shortened lifespans of a few years or 10000 hours for overstressed components operating in harsh conditions would probably be acceptable to a manufacturer of consumer-grade stuff. It's pretty rare to find products that are "overbuilt" or "built like a tank" (unless you go to a high-end audio/AV shoppe).


The common failures indicate that some products have weak points that IMO are likely caused by operating at or near component specs. There's nothing in the pattern of failures that seems to disprove this generalization/hypothesis.


Regards


----------



## Floydage

Well keep in mind that they don't have control over the validity of MTBF data supplied by component vendors although typically they run them through quality analyses. I just don't buy that a 'quality' industry leader like Sony would be sloppy about MTBF, Accelerated Life Testing (ALT), stress testing (temperature issues), etc. as it would ruin their reputation and financial goodwill ($). It just seems like too many failures on this particular problem to me but that could be perceptual because it's a message board focusing on the problem. I designed both industrial and consumer grade electronics at Motorola and the requirements were similarly rigorous in both cases but that's Motorola for ya (six sigma, etc.).


----------



## LiquidSnake

For anybody interested, here is the youtube video I was referring to . "Dantheman" in comments, seems very adamant that a third chip is required in order to prevent the other two from failing, yet as you can see, he never returned to give details on the matter. I even sent him a private message after asking on the video page.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1680#post_23602229
> 
> 
> For anybody interested, here is the youtube video I was referring to . "Dantheman" in comments, seems very adamant that a third chip is required in order to prevent the other two from failing, yet as you can see, he never returned to give details on the matter. I even sent him a private message after asking on the video page.



That could explain recurring failures after repair. If I found the right comments he said part so #3 could be something as simple as a resistor.

After seeing the video I'd be tempted to just cut the leads of the DIPs up high and solder the new parts to the old leads, then I might not even have to take the board out. Or at least cutting them this way would make it easier to get the bad ICs out of the way and pull the old leads out, solder-suck, etc.


----------



## Clockkent

I have a KD-36XBR960 that on power-on blinks 20 times then nothing. Exactly the same as described in post #767. I think de-gauss is working and there's static noise on the back of the set that occurs near the end of the 20 blink sequence so I think HV is working. I've replaced the chips per the 6-7 blink issue which in retrospect has nothing to do with the 20 blinking symptom. Nothing stranger than a ton of dust in the unit. No swollen caps, no brown spots, no loose wires. Still reading the forum but if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.


This set appears to be in great condition. It just won't show a picture or sound from the cable input.


----------



## Novice76

Hey, guys.


I envy those of you who know how to solder; if I had these skills, I could fix my "6 blink problem" at little cost.


My Sony KDL32S5100 is only 3 years old and I'm not excited about either throwing it away nor paying $200 to a technician.


In case there is someone in Philly that can change these IC's on the D-board for a hundred bucks, please PM me. I'll order the parts and will bring the TV to you for repair.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## hvc700mbuyer

EPIC FAIL :-(


Most likely from not knowing how to solder. Anyway, I have resoldered twice to no avail. I still get the 7 blinks.


For anyone trying this, I tried the spring loaded solder sucker....big learning curve with the recoil on that thing.


I also tried the bulb desoldering tool from radio shack....AWESOME. I had the chips out in 5 minutes!


The holes looked clean, I put the sockets in, resoldered best I knew how...and nothing :-(


All the solder videos say to get the hole/component hot enough and let the solder melt to it....I had trouble with that happening.


I would let the iron sit for a few seconds on the socket leg and hole, and then apply solder...but the solder had to touch the iron a bit to actually melt and flow around. All the solders were nice and shiny and looked ok....but this was new to me so I assume I messed something up.


I do recommend putting the board back, reattaching all the plugs, but dont screw anything in place until you know it works...since I have taken the board out twice now to examine my soldering. I may try a third time (I would have done it 10 times by now if I didnt have to wait for the set to discharge...pesky electric shocks and all that.


So MY REAL QUESTION IS: What do I replace this with? It looks like I will need a 46" to replace the 36" wega due to the different aspect ratios....is there anything out there that may look "okay" with a SD cable box??


Thanks!


----------



## blue_z




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hvc700mbuyer*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23647573
> 
> 
> All the solder videos say to get the hole/component hot enough and let the solder melt to it....I had trouble with that happening.
> 
> 
> I would let the iron sit for a few seconds on the socket leg and hole, and then apply solder...but the solder had to touch the iron a bit to actually melt and flow around. All the solders were nice and shiny and looked ok....but this was new to me so I assume I messed something up.


Sounds like you didn't have the tip properly "wetted".

A clean tip does not transfer heat to the work as well as a wet tip.

The tip should be hot and clean. Then dab a touch of fresh solder to the tip before heating the joint.


Early on in this thread, a professional TV repairman stated that this IC replacement has a 90% success rate for this 6/7 blink problem.

That means that there is a 1 in 10 chance that the chip replacement will not fix the problem, and the cause is something more complicated.


Regards


----------



## hvc700mbuyer

It probably isn't clear enough to see but this is what I have....


----------



## duckland23

well guys and gals . I just scored a Sony KV-40XBR800 Television crt model .It seams to work fine but the ex owner told me it will shut off after watching it for sometime and not shut off sometimes . I played for 5 hours last night in my garage to see how she preforms .I have to tell you the picture is very good on it . I was told by the last owner it would flash 7 blinks on the stand by light . I see that the mcz3001d chips can cause that problem . The sony service manual also said something about the thermal resistor opening up too or one other chip of the 5000 series I cant remember which one to be . He also told me that it can get a bur picture too . But I see in the sony service manual it tells me horizontal circuit . Im betting the mcz4001d chips have something to do with it . Let me know your insight on this .


----------



## Bragi

I am having the exact problem as described in post #1690.





I am planning on having someone come out to repair the TV.

Should I order the two ICs first before I have someone look at it?

Where do I order these from?


Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bragi

As a follow-up I had a technician out yesterday. He obviously knew what he was doing. He had the two ICs soldered and everything re-assembled in under an hour. It looks like my 960 will be around for a bit longer.


----------



## MediaFan63

Hi, I have a Sony Wega Trinitron model KV-27FV17 and I can't get a picture on it. The red light just blinks non-stop. Like alot of them it started with a five? Blink code. Eventually it took about 30 seconds to get a picture, then one day nothing. The sound is fine. I have read that I may be able to adjust the screen screw, has anyone done this and how did it work? I don't want to get shocked messing around in the back of the tv. I really loved the picture and sound on it so I'm hoping I can get it to work without it costing too much. Sorry to hijack the thread but the only other thread I could find so far with this tv wouldn't let me post on it.

Any help is appreciated.


Thank you,


Anthony


----------



## duckland23

My Sony KV-40XBR800 Will power on and work for days in days and weeks at a time . Then it will all of the sudden it will out of the blue shut off and flash 7 times , But I can power her back on then about 10 to 30 minutes she will shut off again . If I unplug her over night or for a full 24 hours or so . she will work fine . Im told the two chips are bad in it from the guy that gave it to me . I bought them from ebay for 16.99 with the sockets .But before I do it and waste my time . Im wondering if the 6 nad seven blinks like in this post is my problem . In the sony service manual it said Horizontal Deflection stopped . Im wondering if the chips IC6505 AND IC8002 THE MCZ3001D Chips are at fault and causing the tv to shut down and not turn back on only after I unplug her and she will work for maybe a 10 to 30 minutes or so .I know My fault is on the D board .


.So give me some answers if you can . I seen many people on here talk about it . Oh One more thing To find the chassis ground Im told the tuner is it right . I need to discharge the CRT . I don't want to die doing this . Imgoing to leave it unplugged for like 5 days . I hear that if the tube has not charge in it you can place your arm hairs up to the front of the tube and if they stand up , than its holding a charge . What it the proper way and safe way to discharge the tube , llike the pro's would do. What kind of tool would they use . I heard that and seen many guys use a old screwdriver and wire wrapped and grounded to the chassis ground .


----------



## hvc700mbuyer

That is the correct fix for 6-7 blinks, the two IC chips. Mine manifested much quicker, in a week it shut off after an hour or two, then soon it did not come onat all. I suggest do not turn the tv off until you are prepared to the fix. I had mine on for 24/7 and then a power outage forced me to try the fix.


I tried the IC chip fix, but it did not work. Leave the TV unplugged for at least 2 days. The solder sucker combo unitwith the orangebulb from radio shack worked great for me to desolder. Slide the board out using the tabs on either side and it makes it easy to get the board out. I used a basic 30w solder iron.


----------



## MediaFan63

See post #1720


Thanks,


Anthony


----------



## duckland23

[email protected]


I have a desolder gun from RadioShack that Im going to unsolder the d board with and I also have temp controlled solder iron from them . I should be ok soldering it . But My television is doing something different that not power on at all and blinking 6 times . Mine is blinking 7 times after the television shuts off too . Like I said you can play the set for two weeks and nothing then all of the sudden it starts to act up and shuts off and blinks seven times . I got some oem sony MCZ3001 D chips off eBay for 13.99 . Im going with OEM chips and not aftermarket chips that can start on fire and blow out the main d board too. Im not going to remove the d boad all the way just so I can get room to solder the new chips in I also have some chip sockets too that Im going to use as well .I really hope it fixes it . If Not im going to have to buya hole rebuilt d board from e compass parts . I think I can still get it .


----------



## Ceus


Sony Bravia 46" KDL-46W3000, 2 Blinks.

 

Google gave me this:

*Two blinks*- B+ over current protection (OCP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 2 blink fault. Could be a short in the power supply of any of the circuits.

 

My current plan:

1) Open it up.

2) Use volt meter.

3) Isolate bad part.

4) Buy board for cheap on ebay.

5) Replace.

6) ???

7) Profit?

 

Attempting to repair TV for the first time, was wondering if anyone had suggestions/tips.

So I have never used a volt meter to determine a bad part, was hoping it was just a bad power supply. What you guys think?


----------



## fkie

Hi, I have the Sony KV-27HS420 Hi-Scan, and it has problems because the picture flickers/rolls a lot in all the inputs except HDMI. I observed that the menu box isn't affected by the flickering. Plus, in the HDMI input, the colors are just shades of green and red, on the other inputs, the colors are ok, and again the colors of the menu are ok on HDMI. Please I need advice on what's going on with the tv. Do you know if the D-board has to do with this issue?. Thanks in advance.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23602886
> 
> 
> That could explain recurring failures after repair. If I found the right comments he said part so #3 could be something as simple as a resistor.
> 
> After seeing the video I'd be tempted to just cut the leads of the DIPs up high and solder the new parts to the old leads, then I might not even have to take the board out. Or at least cutting them this way would make it easier to get the bad ICs out of the way and pull the old leads out, solder-suck, etc.




Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,

i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23954493
> 
> 
> Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,
> 
> i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23954493
> 
> 
> Floydage, i also have a Sony kv36hs500 and already fixed the 2 Mcz3001D chips one time and after while is doing the intermittent start up again with not fault in the service menu,
> 
> i red in a thread that this tech adviced to replace the 2 mcz chips and remove from the board Q6530, but he did not explain why.



So the mysterious third part could be a transistor (Q6530). Did you mean to type 'replace' rather than "remove?" Would seem odd to flat out remove a transistor, or at least not replace it with a jumper or other component.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23956477
> 
> 
> So the mysterious third part could be a transistor (Q6530). Did you mean to type 'replace' rather than "remove?" Would seem odd to flat out remove a transistor, or at least not replace it with a jumper or other component.




Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY



for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.


also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,

but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23956928
> 
> 
> Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY
> 
> 
> 
> for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.
> 
> 
> also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,
> 
> but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.





Also learned that by removing and replacing C6510,C8027,C8030,C6532 would solve most of the intermittent starting problems.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23956928
> 
> 
> Ok i checked out on my KV36HS500 Schematic and Q6530 is in the self Diagnostic circuit ,coming of (ic2300 Main Micro) pin69 Ac RLAY
> 
> 
> 
> for what i understand if you remove it, it won't activate the Self diagnostic circuit ,O the Protction circuit.
> 
> 
> also for what i understand my tv when i press power some times it won't come out of stand by,if unplug it and plug it back it fires right away the usual intermittent start,
> 
> but i bring on the diagnoses screen test, by doing on the remote control, Display, Chan5,Sound Volume-,Power On, i have no fault at all in the screen.



So then it appears Q6530 isn't the mysterious third part that could possibly be making the two chips go bad. This procedure is a band-aid for another [what appears to be similar] malady (I take it intermittent rather than permanent like the IC problem). Do at your own risk as a diagnostic/protection circuit is detecting something wrong elsewhere unless something is wrong with the D/P circuit itself.


----------



## ivtec

It makes more sence the C6510,C8027,C8030,C6532 to be the causes of the chips to fale faster!


----------



## Floydage

If those caps are part of the diagnostic/protection circuit, then as with Q6530 probably not the cause of the two-chip failure. I suspect at least two of those are in that circuit by nature of their schematic symbol (65 series).


You wrote before about "removing and replacing" those caps so maybe one or more of those caps goes bad and causes the D/P circuit to produce the intermittent start problem.


----------



## ivtec

hi bro; i also learned that when Changing the 2 chips MCZ3001 also recommends to replace a 1200uf 250 electrolitic cap 105 degreesm

and .1 ohm 1/2 wfr resistor part#12029361


----------



## MediaFan63

Hi guys, I posted about a sony tv, Post 1720 a while ago. I decided to buy a new Samsung plasma. If anyone has ever done a screen screw adjustment please feel free to post about it. I'll just keep the sony in the garage for a while or just haul it to the junk yard.


Thanks again,


Anthony


----------



## LiquidSnake

I love this dialogue.


Bro.


----------



## MediaFan63

Interesting isn't it. I've had two sony products break in a year. Sony and I are done for a while. Luckily on the last broken product I bought a warranty and got my money back. Sony really has to earn my trust again before I buy another one of their products. My advice is, always buy the extended warranty.


----------



## Floydage

Hey ivtec, can you post the reference of where you learned all of this? I think some others here would be interested.


I wonder if that 1200 uF 'lytic cap is connected to the two chips?

Would take some bro-dacious power to blow that resistor and would probably be obvious.


[Looks like they changed the page to widescreen - ugh! Yeah I'm sure everyone has a widescreen monitor AND everyone loves reading and typing on a page in a fashion that resembles watching a tennis match]


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23973259
> 
> 
> Hey ivtec, can you post the reference of where you learned all of this? I think some others here would be interested.
> 
> 
> I wonder if that 1200 uF 'lytic cap is connected to the two chips?
> 
> Would take some bro-dacious power to blow that resistor and would probably be obvious.
> 
> 
> [Looks like they changed the page to widescreen - ugh! Yeah I'm sure everyone has a widescreen monitor AND everyone loves reading and typing on a page in a fashion that resembles watching a tennis match]





Product Info


-Shindengen IC, pulse width modulation, 18 DIP


-Same as Sony 670581001, 670335501, and Hitachi CP08451U


-Recommended replacement for MCZ3001D, MCZ3001DA, 875967030


-Used on Sony D board power supplies. Locations IC6001, IC6501, or IC8002.


-Also used on Sony LCD rear projection modules


-Used in models:

KD30XS955, KDF-55XS955, KP46WT520, KV27FV310, KD32FS130, KDF-60WF655, KP51WS520, KV27HS420, KD34XBR960, KDF-60XS955, KP57WS520, KV-29DRC420, KD-34XBR970, KDFE42A10, KV20FS120, KV-29FA310, KD34XS955, KDF-E50A10, KV-21FA310, KV-29FS120, KD-36FS130, KDFE55A20, KV-21FM120, KV-30HS420, KD36XS955, KDFE60A20, KV21FS120, KV-32DX850, KDE55XBR950, KDP51WS655, KV24FS120, KV32FS120, KDF42E2000, KDP57WS655, KV-25FS120, KV-32FS320, KDF42WE655, KE42M1, KV-27FA310, KV32HS20, KDF50WE655, KF-42WE620, KV27FS120, KV-32HS420, KDF55WF655, KF-50WE620, KV-27FS320, KV32HV600, KV32XBR450, KV36FS120, KV36HS420, KV-38FS120, KV-34FS120, KV-36FS320, KV36XBR400, VPLHS20, KV34HS420, KV36HS20, KV-36HS500


-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended


-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361


-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V


- See more at: http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx#sthash.SSYABEe9.dpuf


----------



## Floydage

Thanks ivtec! I take it that's copy&pasted from the aforementioned technician/thread.


----------



## dbarone


I have a 2004 Sony KF60we610 that had the "5 blinking light" issue.  I replaced the thermal fuse, not an easy task as I had to remove the entire Optical Unit to get to the end.  They commented you didn't need to remove the fuse but there was no way to get the fuse end in the correct spot.  That did not solve the problem.  It took 50 times to get the TV to say on.

 

After more reading it looked like the G1 board was bad, however you can't get those for little $ or you must send in for repair. After many hours of reading, it looked as though the ic1601 was the problem, 17 Volts not supplied.  I ordered the 18 pin mcz3001db ($8.00).  After using ChipQuick, 30 W soldering iron and paste flux, I was able to loosen the part.  The location on the board makes it hard to cut leads so I just crushed it with pliers.  With patience, I was able to remove all the old solder and leads. I replaced the chip,plugged it back in and now it works great.  Note, there are 4 connections of the G1 board to the Main board.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_23977797
> 
> 
> Thanks ivtec! I take it that's copy&pasted from the aforementioned technician/thread.




No i got from the http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx#sthash.SSYABEe9.dpuf


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_23984452
> 
> 
> No i got from the http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx#sthash.SSYABEe9.dpuf



Gotcha. Man they're really 'marketing' for this problem.


----------



## fkie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fkie*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1710#post_23923691
> 
> 
> Hi, I have the Sony KV-27HS420 Hi-Scan, and it has problems because the picture flickers/rolls a lot in all the inputs except HDMI. I observed that the menu box isn't affected by the flickering. Plus, in the HDMI input, the colors are just shades of green and red, on the other inputs, the colors are ok, and again the colors of the menu are ok on HDMI. Please I need advice on what's going on with the tv. Do you know if the D-board has to do with this issue?. Thanks in advance.



Please, help me, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Even the front input has the issue. Do you think it has to do with the input board or the processing image board?


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_23987150
> 
> 
> Gotcha. Man they're really 'marketing' for this problem.



Hi Floydage: today i opened a hole on the side about 12 inches square by cutting the plastic to gain access to the Mcz30001 chips,and i thought i had extra chips but i don't ,so i have to order them but Tristate is out of stock! do you know somewhere else with good reputation? also i noticed also the C6501 is a little bulging so that one has to be changed for sure

so it seems that the advice given when changing the chips so change the caps and the resistors and that's what I'm gonna do.


----------



## Floydage

Wow ivtec, that's some serious serviceability access you've created!







That reminds of the ol' Quasar 'works in a drawer' TVs that were designed to be repaired because TVs broke all the time in that era (and hence the sell-out to Japan). Now I have drilled holes in the back of TV cabinets that didn't give me access to the HV transformer pots (why no access?!







).


Anyhow, no I've never bought any of those chips but have seen posts with vendor links. Try 'Search This Thread' using that part number as the keyword. Might also do the same after backing up one step into the main CRT thread.


Sounds like good advice changing those other parts, especially since it was shown by a vendor. Maybe some of the other vendors have more info too.


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24005161
> 
> 
> Wow ivtec, that's some serious serviceability access you've created!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That reminds of the ol' Quasar 'works in a drawer' TVs that were designed to be repaired because TVs broke all the time in that era (and hence the sell-out to Japan). Now I have drilled holes in the back of TV cabinets that didn't give me access to the HV transformer pots (why no access?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Anyhow, no I've never bought any of those chips but have seen posts with vendor links. Try 'Search This Thread' using that part number as the keyword. Might also do the same after backing up one step into the main CRT thread.
> 
> 
> Sounds like good advice changing those other parts, especially since it was shown by a vendor. Maybe some of the other vendors have more info too.





Well i ordered 4 mcz3001 from amazon.com 44bucks,and i have a Sony kv36hs500 Chassis that i found on the scrap that some time ago someone damped a Sony tv on the side of the road since i could not carry the whole thing i just took out the chassis with all the boards,i guess it probably suffered the same symptoms,so tomorrow I'm gonna take out the 1200 uf cap and resistor .1 ohm 1/2 and test them if they are ok just swapped them.


here a few instructions

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=MCZ3001D&tbm=isch


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivtec*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24005377
> 
> 
> i have a Sony kv36hs500 Chassis that i found on the scrap that some time ago someone damped a Sony tv on the side of the road since i could not carry the whole thing i just took out the chassis with all the boards,i guess it probably suffered the same symptoms



What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there?









I saved the chassis from my '93 RCA 31" Home Theater TV as a degauss 'module' for my '93 GE 27" TV (similar Thomson chassis). The GE degauss circuit fried and so whenever I reorient its position I have to manually degauss it with the RCA chassis.


So did you find the resistor blown in combination with a bad cap? (i.e. do they blow in tandem?).


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fkie*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_23996100
> 
> 
> Please, help me, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Even the front input has the issue. Do you think it has to do with the input board or the processing image board?



Since you're not having much luck here I'll say that if it were me I'd find another one on Craigslist. I see these and other similar 27" CRTs all the time for free or really cheap. 27" is the limit of my lifting ability and I purchased a small furniture dolly for about $10. Did this for an RCA 27" (HD AND built-in HD tuner) I got for free plus a Sony KV-20FS120, and the guy even carried them out to my van while I was getting the dolly out (big guy was in a hurry and dinner was about ready







); I was actually going for the little Sony and told them I would go ahead and take the RCA, only to find out when I got home that the RCA was HD. Nice surprise!


Anyhow good luck and I didn't want to step on your new thread over yonder.


Happy Thanksgiving to all!


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24007702
> 
> 
> Since you're not having much luck here I'll say that if it were me I'd find another one on Craigslist. I see these and other similar 27" CRTs all the time for free or really cheap. 27" is the limit of my lifting ability and I purchased a small furniture dolly for about $10. Did this for an RCA 27" (HD AND built-in HD tuner) I got for free plus a Sony KV-20FS120, and the guy even carried them out to my van while I was getting the dolly out (big guy was in a hurry and dinner was about ready
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ); I was actually going for the little Sony and told them I would go ahead and take the RCA, only to find out when I got home that the RCA was HD. Nice surprise!
> 
> 
> Anyhow good luck and I didn't want to step on your new thread over yonder.
> 
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving to all!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24007434
> 
> 
> What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saved the chassis from my '93 RCA 31" Home Theater TV as a degauss 'module' for my '93 GE 27" TV (similar Thomson chassis). The GE degauss circuit fried and so whenever I reorient its position I have to manually degauss it with the RCA chassis.
> 
> 
> {So did you find the resistor blown in combination with a bad cap? (i.e. do they blow in tandem?).[/}
> 
> 
> Nothing blew yet i don't want that , that's why i already ordered 4 MCZ3001 from Amazon.com , and 2 1200uf 250v caps and 2 .1ohm 1/2 resistors, i'm gonna replace the 2 MCZ23001 chips in conjunction with resistors and Capacitors, hoping this time it will last more then 13 months,
> 
> 
> 
> (What's that guy doing on the side of the road over there?}
> 
> well here in the Usa when some people don't know how to repair their tvs, and don't want to pay the city hall to pick them up for recycle have to pay ( 12bucks}, then they damp their tvs somewhere in the hidden corner, it's against the law,


----------



## Floydage

ivtec - indeed, better safe than sorry. Was just trying to see if you observed any causal relationship between R and C (C causing R to blow).


Yeah I despise illegal dumping, we all pay for it via taxation not to mention ground water and visual pollution. Stupid that they can tote it somewhere to dump when all they had to do was take it to Best Buy (well free only up to 32"); may be other retailers too and I've heard about free electronic recycle businesses. I would be surprised if that city wouldn't have a free drop-off system like here (I wish we had the $12 pick-up service here for the bigger TVs). Hey at least you prevented one of the 'dirtier' sections of the TV from contaminating your ground water.


----------



## MediaFan63

I've seen that before. People leave a tv by the road and the vultures swoop in for parts. Usually they just create a big mess. I should leave my sony on the grass and watch it on our cctv system then make a video to post on the net. Lol


----------



## ivtec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MediaFan63*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24011867
> 
> 
> I've seen that before. People leave a tv by the road and the vultures swoop in for parts. Usually they just create a big mess. I should leave my sony on the grass and watch it on our cctv system then make a video to post on the net. Lol





Usually they just create a big mess


Not me i always take all the parts i need and close the back.


----------



## srbz


I have a KV32HS500.

 

Picture was fine before it disappeared.

 

Had the 6 blink, won't turn on problem.

I replaced the 2 IC and sockets.

 

TV turned on fine, but there was no red color.

 

I tried regular antenna, auxiliary, Video in from DVD. None had red color.

 

But, if I click on "Split Screen" the right screen has full color, the left one missing red.

If I go back to full screen from the right screen that has full color, the red is not there.

 

When I click on "Menu" The "Color" and "Hue" menus have red, but the underlying picture is still missing red.

 

I tried "Reset", holding down reset button on remote, and power on set. It reset but didn't fix the missing red.

 

Any ideas??

 

Thanks


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srbz*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24218227
> 
> 
> I have a KV32HS500.
> 
> 
> Picture was fine before it disappeared.
> 
> 
> Had the 6 blink, won't turn on problem.
> 
> I replaced the 2 IC and sockets.
> 
> 
> TV turned on fine, but there was no red color.
> 
> 
> I tried regular antenna, auxiliary, Video in from DVD. None had red color.
> 
> 
> But, if I click on "Split Screen" the right screen has full color, the left one missing red.
> 
> If I go back to full screen from the right screen that has full color, the red is not there.
> 
> 
> When I click on "Menu" The "Color" and "Hue" menus have red, but the underlying picture is still missing red.
> 
> 
> I tried "Reset", holding down reset button on remote, and power on set. It reset but didn't fix the missing red.
> 
> 
> Any ideas??
> 
> 
> Thanks



Before what disappeared?


Are you saying it lost red after you replaced the two IC's? If so, Murphy's Law says something didn't get hooked back up right. I recall those IC's are for power supply/start-up/protection so I'm guessing it's somewhere else (i.e. a circuit board or cable you had to move/remove to gain access).


The PictureANDPicture stuff tells me it's the main input circuit; a secondary input circuit is used for the second P&P. Menu stuff is independent of the input circuit. The good news is that the TV is still generating red.


Check the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis, its control&power supply wires, and output connections.


----------



## srbz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24219641
> 
> 
> Before what disappeared?
> 
> 
> Are you saying it lost red after you replaced the two IC's? If so, Murphy's Law says something didn't get hooked back up right. I recall those IC's are for power supply/start-up/protection so I'm guessing it's somewhere else (i.e. a circuit board or cable you had to move/remove to gain access).
> 
> 
> The PictureANDPicture stuff tells me it's the main input circuit; a secondary input circuit is used for the second P&P. Menu stuff is independent of the input circuit. The good news is that the TV is still generating red.
> 
> 
> Check the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis, its control&power supply wires, and output connections.



Yes, the red disappeared after replacing two ICs.


I just took it all apart again, lifted up the D board and carefully reassembled making sure all connections were tight.


Same problem.


I took a wood paint stick and prodded various connections and wires to see if something else was loose, but no.


I'm not sure what you mean by "the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis".


Any ideas


Thanks for your help


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srbz*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24222334
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by "the module where the input connectors' cables end - specifically how the module connects to the chassis".



There should be a circuit board, and most likely in a shielded box, where those cables go.


Other than that resolder and check the two IC work, especially making sure multiple pins didn't get solder blobbed together. Since you used sockets, check conductivity between each IC pin at top of the IC and the circuit board connection.


Hopefully nothing got static zapped.


----------



## doveman

Sadly I've had to dispose of my 34" Sony XBR800 CRT as I've got builders coming in to replace all my windows soon and I would have had to be shifting the TV around a lot, which is impossible for me on my own.


However, I removed all the boards from it first, so if anyone is interested in buying them, please have a look at my classfied listing for further details.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1513409/sony-xbr800-boards-seeking-provisional-offers-to-be-considered


----------



## cbeasley5


I too am having the same problems with the tv not coming on and the standby light is blinking. anyone know how to fix it. the first time I unplugged it and waited about four or five hours and plugged it up and it worked. but the next day it did it again and now it will not turn on.


----------



## Floydage

That's what this thread is all about. Take a step back in time.


----------



## cact34r


My KV-32HS510 starting showing the 7 blink diagnostic code and would usually work with the hair dryer method.  After reading all the posts I replaced both mcz3001db chips on the D board using sockets.

 

Now when i power on the set I hear a relay click and immediately get 3 blinks of the standby light onetime, then another click of the same relay.  Based on what I've read this is not a diagnostic code, but I can't find any information on what this means.  I pulled the d board back up and resoldered the connections, and pulled the mcz3001db ic's out to make sure there were no bent legs.  The only thing I haven't done is reinstalled the back on the set, but I can't see anywhere there is a safety that would keep it from powering on.  I have service manual but nothing is mentioned about this condition that I can see.

 

Can anyone offer advice on where to start?


----------



## wz286t


I am happy to report that after following the extremely helpful instructions, especially posts # 108-111, I was able to revive my 12-year old Sony KV-34XBR800 after it had developed the dreaded 6-blink problem.

As instructed, I purchased the chips and sockets, and all the tools that were required and then, by a stroke of genius, I asked a good friend for help. Turns out, in one of his first jobs, he used to repair circuit boards for a living and was really good at it,and so between the two of us - we were able to get the job done in about 60 minutes.

If I had to do it myself I must admit I would have had trouble with putting the socket-mounted chips securely

in the right spots. Even with good lighting and with the TV on its face - I first tried to put them in myself and

wasnt having much luck. My friend, on the other hand, sailed through it after having made sure the socket pins

were dead-straight,and that they went right in.

Phew! Another CRT behemoth saved from landfill,and Im hoping to have a few more years of its use, especially the powerful subwoofer-based XBR sound.

Thank you again for this great thread and all the helpful advice.


----------



## JKLedbetter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont...t-blinks-help-and-suggesti/1740#post_24625592
> 
> 
> That's what this thread is all about. Take a step back in time.


OK, here's a step back.

 

I have Trinitron KV-27EXR25 that recently died.  While it was on, the screen suddenly blinked off.  I think the red power light would blink when I tried to turn it on, but by the time it occurred to me to count the blinks, the light no longer came on.  It still clicks, but that is all.

 

I opened it up and slid the main board assembly back for a look.  No obvious bulging or burned capacitors, and the fuses test good.

 

What is the next step to troubleshoot it?

 

-Kennon


----------



## Floydage

No I meant the desired info is within the content of this thread over and over and over again. I think folks have tired of rewriting the 'wheel' and CRT is a dying subject. But GL!


----------



## gary777

I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day the TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the winking out is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.

It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this TV and it's been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.

Need some ideas as to what could be happening.

I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Video and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.

I did a self diagnosis, there were no error codes. I would like to know how many times should a working 960's red led's should blink, from the time you power on until there is picture and sound...

Thanks


----------



## Mark Goetz

gary777 said:


> I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day the TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the winking out is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.
> 
> It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this TV and it's been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.
> 
> Need some ideas as to what could be happening.
> 
> I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Video and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.
> 
> I did a self diagnosis, there were no error codes. I would like to know how many times should a working 960's red led's should blink, from the time you power on until there is picture and sound...
> 
> Thanks


It's been a while since I had my xbr, had to break down and get new flat panel TV (yes I cried when I trashed it :crying: ). But if I remember correctly it should only flash once or twice while the degausser kicked in and that is a long flash (or maybe was a real quick flash) so not to confuse with a problem flash. Someone can correct me if they still have a good working or remember better. Now if it is taking longer then usual for the screen to come on or the degausser is taking longer to do it job it could be the degausser that is in fault and could also causing the "flash" on the corners of the screen. Could also be the tube getting ready to crap out.

Hope this helps and anyone else still following this thread can correct me if I am wrong or incorrect in any info...

Again THANKS to all the support in keeping this thread going. Actually thought this thread would have died a few years back now. Glade to see someone has one of those tube TVs they are still using.


----------



## gary777

Mark Goetz said:


> It's been a while since I had my xbr, had to break down and get new flat panel TV (yes I cried when I trashed it :crying: ). But if I remember correctly it should only flash once or twice while the degausser kicked in and that is a long flash (or maybe was a real quick flash) so not to confuse with a problem flash. Someone can correct me if they still have a good working or remember better. Now if it is taking longer then usual for the screen to come on or the degausser is taking longer to do it job it could be the degausser that is in fault and could also causing the "flash" on the corners of the screen. Could also be the tube getting ready to crap out.
> 
> Hope this helps and anyone else still following this thread can correct me if I am wrong or incorrect in any info...
> 
> Again THANKS to all the support in keeping this thread going. Actually thought this thread would have died a few years back now. Glade to see someone has one of those tube TVs they are still using.


 Did your 960 die or did you just want a bigger set? Thanks for the info. I PMd another member who still has his 960 that is working fine, he said his blinks 11 times, from power on button being pushed until there is sound and picture. That's what I am also getting.

Thank you for replying. If you want another 960 and live in California he has his up for sale in the classified section. 
*
* 
gary777 is online now Report Post 
Edit Quote Multi-Quote Quick Reply


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## artyusmce

Did this repair November 2011 and still alive!!!! (36XBR800)


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## gary777

artyusmce said:


> Did this repair November 2011 and still alive!!!! (36XBR800)


Exactly what repair?


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## artyusmce

_ i replaced the 2- MCZ3001DB chips,_


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## gary777

artyusmce said:


> _ i replaced the 2- MCZ3001DB chips,_


Thanks Art, was not sure which XBR you were talking about. Good for you...


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## louiboy2014

came across this site that would greatly uplift my repair skills...good job everyone..

i need help on my sony trinitron 21 in TV KV-21DA1 model which does not power on and stays on standby mode with 4 blinking lights pattern..does anybody here already encounter such problem?if then, need your help where to start troubleshooting...

thanks,
louiboy


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## TeeJay1952

This problem (and easy repair) put me off Sony products after a lifetime of support. 
I was (and am) flummoxed that Sony would let a problem like this into the wild and not do anything about it. Bad caps or poor design, it doesn't really matter which it is. 
Sony should work on good products and quit worrying about "copy protection" so much.


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## jtown017

I have a sony kv-34xbr800 tv that just wont turn on.
it has 6 blinking standby lights.

i tried unplugging it and resetting it. no luck

can someone summarize what is wrong? by a quick scan it looks like its the MIC chips but can someone explain please.

i have no soldering experience so most likely wont be able to do it by myself.

do local tv repair shops know how to repair this issue? also if it is the chips it sounds like its $20 worth of parts. should i just buy them and then have the repair guys repair it.

or should i just purchase a new tv...

thanks and looking forward to your help


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## cajieboy

jtown017 said:


> I have a sony kv-34xbr800 tv that just wont turn on.
> it has 6 blinking standby lights.
> 
> i tried unplugging it and resetting it. no luck
> 
> can someone summarize what is wrong? by a quick scan it looks like its the MIC chips but can someone explain please.
> 
> i have no soldering experience so most likely wont be able to do it by myself.
> 
> do local tv repair shops know how to repair this issue? also if it is the chips it sounds like its $20 worth of parts. should i just buy them and then have the repair guys repair it.
> 
> or should i just purchase a new tv...
> 
> thanks and looking forward to your help


Depends on how you view it. Do you want to preserve one of Sony's last & best CRT TV's? Or are you pretty much done, and want to move on? Only you can answer that. Is this a spare TV, or your main viewer? 

Personally, a 34" TV screen is small by today's standards, and if it were a main viewer, and in pristine condition, I'd do both. I'd buy myself a 55"-65" flatscreen Samsung Plasma before they are all bought out, and keep the Sony 34"er to tinker on in your spare time. Parts are cheap, and you may discover a new hobby. There are some great DIY posts in this thread to walk you through it.


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> Depends on how you view it. Do you want to preserve one of Sony's last & best CRT TV's? Or are you pretty much done, and want to move on? Only you can answer that. Is this a spare TV, or your main viewer?
> 
> Personally, a 34" TV screen is small by today's standards, and if it were a main viewer, and in pristine condition, I'd do both. I'd buy myself a 55"-65" flatscreen Samsung Plasma before they are all bought out, and keep the Sony 34"er to tinker on in your spare time. Parts are cheap, and you may discover a new hobby. There are some great DIY posts in this thread to walk you through it.


it is a main for my mother. it has been perfectly good for her the last 10 years. 
problem is she doesnt have much money to spend and i dont have much time to figure it out. 

id love to do it cheap but it sounds like some people replace the chips and it still doesnt work. please correct me if i am wrong. 

is it the MIC chips for 6 blinking standby lights?


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> Depends on how you view it. Do you want to preserve one of Sony's last & best CRT TV's? Or are you pretty much done, and want to move on? Only you can answer that. Is this a spare TV, or your main viewer?
> 
> Personally, a 34" TV screen is small by today's standards, and if it were a main viewer, and in pristine condition, I'd do both. I'd buy myself a 55"-65" flatscreen Samsung Plasma before they are all bought out, and keep the Sony 34"er to tinker on in your spare time. Parts are cheap, and you may discover a new hobby. There are some great DIY posts in this thread to walk you through it.


and arent plasmas really expensive?


----------



## cajieboy

jtown017 said:


> it is a main for my mother. it has been perfectly good for her the last 10 years.
> problem is she doesnt have much money to spend and i dont have much time to figure it out.
> 
> id love to do it cheap but it sounds like some people replace the chips and it still doesnt work. please correct me if i am wrong.
> 
> is it the MIC chips for 6 blinking standby lights?


That's right. No guarantees that the chip replacements will fix your problem. For some it's worked like a charm, for others not the case. Unless you know of an old-school TV repair guy in your area that will do it for a reasonable cost, then I can't recommend doing this fix. Reason is you said you don't have much time to figure it out, and you don't sound like the person that tinkers with old gear. 

That TV was a top-tier Sony at the time it was new. You'll find that Tv's have got a whole lot cheaper and screen sizes have grown larger since 2004. Lots of deals out there, and then there's the buy "used" option. Why not buy her a new TV as an early Christmas present? The larger screens are easier on the eyes for older folks.


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> That's right. No guarantees that the chip replacements will fix your problem. For some it's worked like a charm, for others not the case. Unless you know of an old-school TV repair guy in your area that will do it for a reasonable cost, then I can't recommend doing this fix. Reason is you said you don't have much time to figure it out, and you don't sound like the person that tinkers with old gear.
> 
> That TV was a top-tier Sony at the time it was new. You'll find that Tv's have got a whole lot cheaper and screen sizes have grown larger since 2004. Lots of deals out there, and then there's the buy "used" option. Why not buy her a new TV as an early Christmas present? The larger screens are easier on the eyes for older folks.


i dont mind trying to fix it but i know absolutely nothing about soldering...

any recommendations on tvs? i hated searching for my sony 47hx850 tv 2012. 
just want one good for sports as she watches alot as well as movies and shows and occasion gaming


----------



## cajieboy

jtown017 said:


> i dont mind trying to fix it but i know absolutely nothing about soldering...
> 
> any recommendations on tvs? i hated searching for my sony 47hx850 tv 2012.
> just want one good for sports as she watches alot as well as movies and shows and occasion gaming


I'd recommend the TV I bought in late Dec. 2013 but I doubt there's any leftover. That's the Panasonic ST60 Series. Biggest bang for your buck, and it doesn't seem like you want to spring for a VT or ZT Series, which is/was Panasonic's Top Tier Plasma HDTV. The Plasma TV's will give you more film-like viewing experience, has no viewing angle problems, and is superior for motion (translates into great for sports). Not to mention the excellent black levels and color. It's more CRT-like than the other video tech. 

If you can't find a Panasonic Plasma, then my next pick would be Samsung but I'm not well-versed on their model line. I'd visit the Samsung forums on AVS, as there are guys on there with a lot of experience with Samsungs. After that, maybe an LG. As for LED/LCD, you've asked the wrong person. I'm just waiting in the wings for an OLED 4K TV to develop its tech to perfection, as well as a resonable price for a 70-80"er...I give it about 4-5yrs.


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> I'd recommend the TV I bought in late Dec. 2013 but I doubt there's any leftover. That's the Panasonic ST60 Series. Biggest bang for your buck, and it doesn't seem like you want to spring for a VT or ZT Series, which is/was Panasonic's Top Tier Plasma HDTV. The Plasma TV's will give you more film-like viewing experience, has no viewing angle problems, and is superior for motion (translates into great for sports). Not to mention the excellent black levels and color. It's more CRT-like than the other video tech.
> 
> If you can't find a Panasonic Plasma, then my next pick would be Samsung but I'm not well-versed on their model line. I'd visit the Samsung forums on AVS, as there are guys on there with a lot of experience with Samsungs. After that, maybe an LG. As for LED/LCD, you've asked the wrong person. I'm just waiting in the wings for an OLED 4K TV to develop its tech to perfection, as well as a resonable price for a 70-80"er...I give it about 4-5yrs.


thanks for your help.

is the st60 really $2000 and above?!

most i would go is probably $1000. are there any good plasmas for that price range?
are plasmas good for gaming as well?

what about the burn in, the overheating, the expensive power bill on plasmas?


----------



## cajieboy

jtown017 said:


> thanks for your help.
> 
> is the st60 really $2000 and above?!
> 
> most i would go is probably $1000. are there any good plasmas for that price range?
> are plasmas good for gaming as well?
> 
> what about the burn in, the overheating, the expensive power bill on plasmas?


I paid $1500 for my 60ST60 on Amazon. But that was in December 2013. I guess these TV's are in high demand since they have been discontinued. Call around and search your area for open box sales, demo floor models, etc. You might get lucky. Otherwise, checkout the Samsung models, which I think will become scarce too in not already. I've taken myself out of the buying market since December as I now have a TV that I'm thoroughly satisfied with thus far, and have not had a reason to shop around, etc. You can get a pretty damn good TV if $1000 is your budget. Lots of 50"ers around. Don't forget Costco, Sams Club, and other wholesale warehouses. Good luck, and let me know what you end up with.


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> I paid $1500 for my 60ST60 on Amazon. But that was in December 2013. I guess these TV's are in high demand since they have been discontinued. Call around and search your area for open box sales, demo floor models, etc. You might get lucky. Otherwise, checkout the Samsung models, which I think will become scarce too in not already. I've taken myself out of the buying market since December as I now have a TV that I'm thoroughly satisfied with thus far, and have not had a reason to shop around, etc. You can get a pretty damn good TV if $1000 is your budget. Lots of 50"ers around. Don't forget Costco, Sams Club, and other wholesale warehouses. Good luck, and let me know what you end up with.


okay will do.

what about the burn in issues, overheating and increase of electricity for plasmas?


----------



## cajieboy

jtown017 said:


> okay will do.
> 
> what about the burn in issues, overheating and increase of electricity for plasmas?


Red herrings, and urban myths dating from the very early days of plasma production, and continually perpetuated by folks for a variety of hidden agendas. Ask the A/V professionals why they chose Plasma TV's as the BEST AT CNET every year. Or ask why Plasma Tv's have won every shootout year in and year out. Not any more though because plasma tech has been discontinued, and you will soon have no choice in the matter. 

If you're concerned about those things, go get an LCD/LED, but you asked me for my best choice and I told you. It's your money, so get what makes you comfortable in purchasing. I will close by saying that I'm not worried, concerned or bothered by the urban myths, and glad I got my Panasonic plasma just before production ended.


----------



## Floydage

jtown017 said:


> it is a main for my mother. it has been perfectly good for her the last 10 years.
> problem is she doesnt have much money to spend and i dont have much time to figure it out.
> 
> id love to do it cheap but it sounds like some people replace the chips and it still doesnt work. please correct me if i am wrong.
> 
> is it the MIC chips for 6 blinking standby lights?


In the meantime on a larger more costly TV decision, you can buy her a new one around this size (actually a touch bigger) on sale for about $200. Paying a tech to fix this one will probably cost at least half that. There's also great deals on used and even later versions of your broken TV on Craigslist if you have the means to move the beast as folks practically [and sometimes] give them away so someone else will move it out for them.

And don't forget Black Friday is right around the corner. GL!


----------



## jtown017

cajieboy said:


> Red herrings, and urban myths dating from the very early days of plasma production, and continually perpetuated by folks for a variety of hidden agendas. Ask the A/V professionals why they chose Plasma TV's as the BEST AT CNET every year. Or ask why Plasma Tv's have won every shootout year in and year out. Not any more though because plasma tech has been discontinued, and you will soon have no choice in the matter.
> 
> If you're concerned about those things, go get an LCD/LED, but you asked me for my best choice and I told you. It's your money, so get what makes you comfortable in purchasing. I will close by saying that I'm not worried, concerned or bothered by the urban myths, and glad I got my Panasonic plasma just before production ended.


i was just asking because at a friends house, i saw burn in from logos and such if the tv was left on pause for a bit. maybe its because it was a low end plasma? or because it was human error by leaving it paused and on.

why is the plasma tech being discontinued?!


----------



## jtown017

Floydage said:


> In the meantime on a larger more costly TV decision, you can buy her a new one around this size (actually a touch bigger) on sale for about $200. Paying a tech to fix this one will probably cost at least half that. There's also great deals on used and even later versions of your broken TV on Craigslist if you have the means to move the beast as folks practically [and sometimes] give them away so someone else will move it out for them.
> 
> And don't forget Black Friday is right around the corner. GL!


okay i will look.

so i contacted 1 repair shop and said it would be $200.

i asked around and my coworker said he can solder but it wont be pretty. does this matter? i want the best chance this will work.

what all parts should i order? it looks like it could be a range of things including the mc3001 chips and some capacitors and resistors.


----------



## jtown017

sorry about the repeat posts, but i bought 2 sockets and 2 mcz3001db ics. 

1. do i need any capacitors or resistors?


2. does this 25watt solder kit work? http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electronics-ST-12-Soldering-Tool/dp/B0002LLWZY
some say it doesnt get hot enough.

3. will my kv-34xbr800 have a third ic on the A board?

4. there seems to be some discussion on whether the sockets are the cause of a shorten chip life. should i go with them or not?

5. does this repair reset the tvs settings or will it power up to its regular self? i really do not want to touch the service menu

6. do i solder or insert the ic to the socket first before soldering the socket to the board?

7. do i need flux?

8. do i need to wet the solder pen/iron w/ solder? some youtube videos say not to do that but some posts say proper wetting needs to be done

thanks again for the help


----------



## homerging

1) Possible but a low chance.
2) 25watts may not be hot enough but the quality of the soldering iron is influential as a poor quality tip won't transmit heat very well even at 40watts. It's better to have an iron that's a bit too hot than too cold. I'd get a 35watts or 40watts. The iron will be cold when first turned on so that gives a bit of temperature control. Just don't press down on the PCB too long as that will cause the copper pads to lift and detach like another person had happen from the 80watt iron.
3) I don't know but it's far more likely for the MCZ3001 chip on the D board to fail than the one on the A board.
4) Just don't put it in upside down or something like that  . One person had his chip pop out but that hasn't been much of a problem as the sockets are usually tight.
5) It doesn't alter the stored settings.
6) You desolder the existing chip, insert the socket and solder it in. Then insert the chip into the socket. Take note of which way up the original chip was with a camera.
7) The desoldering braid should have flux in it. Also, get solder with flux core. Look for 0.7mm or 0.66mm solder if possible. I wouldn't recommend leaded solder as it's really toxic.

Where did you order the MCZ3001 chips from? There are some fake ones floating around. 



> so i contacted 1 repair shop and said it would be $200.


That's actually not too bad if that includes call out.



> i asked around and my coworker said he can solder but it wont be pretty. does this matter? i want the best chance this will work.


It depends on what he means by not pretty. If he's used to soldering electronic components he'd probably know what to do. If he's used to soldering pipes it may not something he'd be able to manage.

Read through CRTGAMER's thread at this link
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...ron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide.html
also follow the link to the Racketboy thread.

If you're doing this yourself and aren't used to soldering, my suggestion is to just replace one the chip at IC8002 first and see if that works. Replacing two chips increases the chances of a mistake and it's probable only one chip has died. There are tutorials on Youtube.


----------



## jtown017

homerging said:


> 1) Possible but a low chance.
> 2) 25watts may not be hot enough but the quality of the soldering iron is influential as a poor quality tip won't transmit heat very well even at 40watts. It's better to have an iron that's a bit too hot than too cold. I'd get a 35watts or 40watts. The iron will be cold when first turned on so that gives a bit of temperature control. Just don't press down on the PCB too long as that will cause the copper pads to lift and detach like another person had happen from the 80watt iron.
> 3) I don't know but it's far more likely for the MCZ3001 chip on the D board to fail than the one on the A board.
> 4) Just don't put it in upside down or something like that  . One person had his chip pop out but that hasn't been much of a problem as the sockets are usually tight.
> 5) It doesn't alter the stored settings.
> 6) You desolder the existing chip, insert the socket and solder it in. Then insert the chip into the socket. Take note of which way up the original chip was with a camera.
> 7) The desoldering braid should have flux in it. Also, get solder with flux core. Look for 0.7mm or 0.66mm solder if possible. I wouldn't recommend leaded solder as it's really toxic.
> 
> Where did you order the MCZ3001 chips from? There are some fake ones floating around.
> 
> That's actually not too bad if that includes call out.
> 
> It depends on what he means by not pretty. If he's used to soldering electronic components he'd probably know what to do. If he's used to soldering pipes it may not something he'd be able to manage.
> 
> Read through CRTGAMER's thread at this link
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...ron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide.html
> also follow the link to the Racketboy thread.
> 
> If you're doing this yourself and aren't used to soldering, my suggestion is to just replace one the chip at IC8002 first and see if that works. Replacing two chips increases the chances of a mistake and it's probable only one chip has died. There are tutorials on Youtube.


thank you thank you for the response!

after more research. i think the best idea is to have it repaired the by local tv repair for $200. they knew it was the ICs off the bat so i think i will go with that instead of the potential of me screwing something up especially since its my first time.

here are the ICs i bought (are these fake?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MCZ3001D-MCZ3001DB-MCZ3001DA-MCZ3001-2-PCS-2-18-pin-IC-Socket-US-/141315525087?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

the shop said they have the ICs in stock so might just go with theirs and return mine.

couple questions, 

1.) should i make sure they use sockets? 
2.) should i also make sure they dont solder the pins holes that werent soldered in the first place? i believe its pin #13 & 17
3.) will a error code need to be cleared after the repair?

im assuming they know this but ill make sure to ask the questions if i should.

do you know how i should clean the CRT tv's screen? i know it has a anti-reflective coating and was wondering what should i use. would the iphone iklear cleaner work?


----------



## homerging

> here are the ICs i bought (are these fake?)


Read this post and compare date codes
http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/#comment-497932

Counterfeit MCZ3001DB chips are being made in China and one person on another forum said his TV caught fire after installing a fake. It's probable some of the fakes are good but others may be decoys and others may be dangerous. Many of the capacitors and other electronic components sold on eBay are fakes. 

Sony doesn't make them, the originals were made in Japan by Shindengen. I think Sony did supply them to authorised repair places at a higher price. It should still be possible to order genuine MCZ3001DB chips through Amazon (from "B&D") and a few other reputable parts websites such as the ones listed on this page. 
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/4396-repair-parts-distributors.html
The Pacific Semiconductors mentioned on that page lists plenty of stock. Audio Labs of Georgia lists their MCZ3001DB chips as "Tested.".



> the shop said they have the ICs in stock so might just go with theirs and return mine.


_If_ they were supplied by Sony they should be fine but I'd doubt random eBay ICs. You should inform them there are fake MCZ3001DB chips about though and that some of the real ones might be dead on arrival.



> should i make sure they use sockets?


Yes. Usually for this kind of IC repair a socket wouldn't be used. But these chips can fail again and having a socket makes it much easier to deal with a bad chip.



> should i also make sure they dont solder the pins holes that werent soldered in the first place? i believe its pin #13 & 17


Yes but if they know what they're doing they're unlikely to do that.



> will a error code need to be cleared after the repair?


No, it should turn on normally although it's possible the TV's picture might have changed slightly because of voltage improvements. 



> do you know how i should clean the CRT tv's screen?


I don't but I know many cleaners can damage or cause streaks on a TV screen. A clean microfibre cloth is a good start. The screen scratches and retains fingerprints really easily so that's something to be careful of.

The two MCZ3001 ICs on the D board don't fail in the same way as each other so it's usually possible to revive the TV just by swapping the two chips. But it's preferable and probably safer to have the professional install two new chips.

Your model, the 34xbr800, should have DVI with HDCP which is effectively HDMI without digital audio. It should be possible to plug an HDMI device into it with an HDMI to DVI adapter and a couple of RCA cables for the audio.


----------



## jtown017

homerging said:


> Read this post and compare date codes
> http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/#comment-497932
> 
> Counterfeit MCZ3001DB chips are being made in China and one person on another forum said his TV caught fire after installing a fake. It's probable some of the fakes are good but others may be decoys and others may be dangerous. Many of the capacitors and other electronic components sold on eBay are fakes.
> 
> Sony doesn't make them, the originals were made in Japan by Shindengen. I think Sony did supply them to authorised repair places at a higher price. It should still be possible to order genuine MCZ3001DB chips through Amazon (from "B&D") and a few other reputable parts websites such as the ones listed on this page.
> http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/4396-repair-parts-distributors.html
> The Pacific Semiconductors mentioned on that page lists plenty of stock. Audio Labs of Georgia lists their MCZ3001DB chips as "Tested.".
> 
> _If_ they were supplied by Sony they should be fine but I'd doubt random eBay ICs. You should inform them there are fake MCZ3001DB chips about though and that some of the real ones might be dead on arrival.
> 
> Yes. Usually for this kind of IC repair a socket wouldn't be used. But these chips can fail again and having a socket makes it much easier to deal with a bad chip.
> 
> Yes but if they know what they're doing they're unlikely to do that.
> 
> No, it should turn on normally although it's possible the TV's picture might have changed slightly because of voltage improvements.
> 
> I don't but I know many cleaners can damage or cause streaks on a TV screen. A clean microfibre cloth is a good start. The screen scratches and retains fingerprints really easily so that's something to be careful of.
> 
> The two MCZ3001 ICs on the D board don't fail in the same way as each other so it's usually possible to revive the TV just by swapping the two chips. But it's preferable and probably safer to have the professional install two new chips.
> 
> Your model, the 34xbr800, should have DVI with HDCP which is effectively HDMI without digital audio. It should be possible to plug an HDMI device into it with an HDMI to DVI adapter and a couple of RCA cables for the audio.


thank you sooo much!

ill return the chips from ebay. it has the bad numbers.

ill make sure to ask for them to install sockets. 

what are the steps to do if the picture changes due to the voltage improvements unless the change is to a better picture!

btw, tried the tv after 4 days of being unplugged and it started first time. but im assuming itll get less likely to work and constantly have 6 blinks, please correct me if i am wrong.

currently, i have component cables for HD. would that a DVI adapter w/ hdmi still be a better option?


----------



## homerging

jtown017 said:


> thank you sooo much!
> 
> ill return the chips from ebay. it has the bad numbers.
> 
> ill make sure to ask for them to install sockets.
> 
> what are the steps to do if the picture changes due to the voltage improvements unless the change is to a better picture!


There probably won't be a noticeable difference. The way of changing hidden settings like those to reduce overscan is in the service menu. It's possible to wreck the TV by making a mistake in there so you shouldn't go into it without knowing what you're doing. 
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...vice-codes-articles-comments-discoveries.html
The Sony HD CRTs were usually shipped with lots of overscan and red push and sometimes crushed blacks so many people have gone into the service menu and fixed those problems. Or in some cases ended up posting a variation of "Help I changed something by mistake and the picture went blue. So I reset everything and now my TV won't work!".


> btw, tried the tv after 4 days of being unplugged and it started first time. but im assuming itll get less likely to work and constantly have 6 blinks, please correct me if i am wrong.


That is correct. It may work for a few weeks but it will stop working.


> currently, i have component cables for HD. would that a DVI adapter w/ hdmi still be a better option?


If the devices really do HD over component it's probably ok as it is but it may be worth a try. Possibly all the Sony CRTs with HDMI or DVI inputs do an internal conversion from digital to analogue and back to digital again instead of doing a direct digital connection.

Most devices, especially pay TV receivers, won't do HD without HDMI/DVI HDCP, and DVDs aren't allowed to be upscaled over component If the DRC button on the remote works it's outputting SD.


----------



## jtown017

homerging said:


> There probably won't be a noticeable difference. The way of changing hidden settings like those to reduce overscan is in the service menu. It's possible to wreck the TV by making a mistake in there so you shouldn't go into it without knowing what you're doing.
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...vice-codes-articles-comments-discoveries.html
> The Sony HD CRTs were usually shipped with lots of overscan and red push and sometimes crushed blacks so many people have gone into the service menu and fixed those problems. Or in some cases ended up posting a variation of "Help I changed something by mistake and the picture went blue. So I reset everything and now my TV won't work!".
> That is correct. It may work for a few weeks but it will stop working.
> If the devices really do HD over component it's probably ok as it is but it may be worth a try. Possibly all the Sony CRTs with HDMI or DVI inputs do an internal conversion from digital to analogue and back to digital again instead of doing a direct digital connection.
> 
> Most devices, especially pay TV receivers, won't do HD without HDMI/DVI HDCP, and DVDs aren't allowed to be upscaled over component If the DRC button on the remote works it's outputting SD.


Ya i do not want to touch the service menus. 

Right now (when the tv was working), there are some areas of the image being cut off. It happened when i transitioned over to Directv and their DVR. Some of the top menu bar info is cut off. As well as espn, the news ticker on the left is cut off half way.

here is a link to another thread i made a year ago. sounds like other users said it was overscan.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-direct-view-single-tube-crt-displays/1461996-sony-kv-34xbr800-directv-hr34-problem.html

Not sure if that is related to the tv or to directv but we have been living w it.

The tech comes this afternoon. The only thing i am worried about is lifting the tv off the stand and back onto the stand or turning the stand/tv sideways so he can get at it. i just dont want the surround system copper wires (old school) to be damaged or unplugged. and i am worried about only have two people lifting it.

ughhhh


----------



## jtown017

homerging -

the tech came out today and installed the two new chips with sockets (as i asked him to). 
he knew exactly what he was doing and whipped it out fast.

it worked.

the picture is same besides at the top it has a convex/concave thing going on. the top banner on say the tv guide slopes downwards.

or the station logo such as ABC at the top is slanted at an angle. its not noticeable when the picture is going but if there is any logo or banner it is noticeable.

any ideas or will this have to be service menu?


----------



## LiquidSnake

Can you post a picture of this?


----------



## jtown017

LiquidSnake said:


> Can you post a picture of this?


I have attached a photo. I took this the other night real quick. Don't mind the artifacts caused by the camera.

I will try to get better pictures tonight.

The more I watch tv, the less i see problems with the tilt. It definitely has overscan. I only notice it on tickers (see bottom of pic) and im assuming its because i wouldnt notice picture being lost unless it was text. hope that makes sense.

you can kinda see the curve illusion. its almost like due to glass but maybe its due to the overscan.


----------



## LiquidSnake

As a tilt goes, that doesn't look terrible. It does look like convergence is going out in the top right corner though, see the blue-purple tint above the white box? It should be within it. And even that isn't very bad. I would think if you tackled convergence then the problem would go away entirely or be even less noticeable. Do you have a way to display a test pattern? It will help you get things shaped well.


----------



## jtown017

LiquidSnake said:


> As a tilt goes, that doesn't look terrible. It does look like convergence is going out in the top right corner though, see the blue-purple tint above the white box? It should be within it. And even that isn't very bad. I would think if you tackled convergence then the problem would go away entirely or be even less noticeable. Do you have a way to display a test pattern? It will help you get things shaped well.


oh gosh. yes i do notice but barely notice it while watching tv. so im not sure ill mess with that stuff. i dont know much regarding test patterns. 

i really dont want to mess with the service menu but the overscan is the biggest problem.

that is really the only thing noticeable while watching tv. and it is distracting. i heard there are only 4 things to change for that in the service menu. problem is keeping the aspect ratio correct.

ya?


----------



## cact34r

I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board. 

I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.

Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.


----------



## GreggT

cact34r said:


> I've read several many posts on this problem and performed the repair on my KV-32HS10 using sockets for the 2 MCZ3001's on the D board . Now when I press the power button I hear a relay click and then click off again after about 3 seconds. The power LED blinks once or twice during the first click, but then does not blink an error code after the second. I put the original IC's back in (in the sockets) and it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not getting through the startup process far enough to give the error. It even does the same if neither of the IC's are installed in the sockets on the D board.
> 
> I've used an ohm meter to verify the pins of the socket are connected to the pads on the board, and looked everywhere for a solder bridge or drop with a magnifying glass and can't see anything wrong. I have a background in electronics and digital circuits.
> 
> Any idea on where I can start now? I don't want to give up on it.


What do the tops of the two large black capacitors look like? Are they bowed out at all? I had this problem when just replacing the sockets/chips, but one of my caps was bowed out pretty good (bad) and the underneath part of the solder/board looked brown/burnt. Ordered the caps and will begin repair next weekend. Crossing my fingers...


----------



## cact34r

I will take a look at them tonight. I just did the repair on my main set (same problem developed 2 weeks ago) and it was successful, but I didn't remove the board. I did the work with the TV resting on it's screen and it was much easier.


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## tunein8

*I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red l*

I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.


----------



## aflorida

tunein8 said:


> I have a tv Sony Trinitron XBR (KV-34XBR800). The tv does not turn on; the LED red light flashes 7 times most of the time; it flashed 6 times repeatedly in one occasion. Is my tv problem exactly the same as yours? Should I follow all the steps you have showed? I am not very good with electronics, and this is my first time to fix an electronic. What is the difference between the IC's and MCZ3001D you have mentioned? Should I still use the Dremmel and soldering iron in my case? Can't I just simply pull out the defective IC's or MCZ, and put in the new ones? Please help. Thank you.


Had the same problem with my previous Sony 40 inch XBR. Had to have a Sony authorized tech come by and take it out for repairs and brought it back. I am not knowledgeable to do any technical repairs myself. The Sony authorized tech said it is a common Sony problem ...and the "board" he called it needed to be repaired or replaced. The final cost to me: (if I remember correctly) was $160.00. But worth it to me since I can't do any of this myself. Anyway after another 1 year with the set (and nothing else ever went wrong with my display ever again) I decided to move the set to my Bedroom and upgrade to the Sony 4K 65 inch 850A for my Living Room and that set I have since it was released 1+ year ago.
I only buy Sony's...had my first XBR when they first came out...many,many years ago.....


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## steinjw

*Kd-34xs955*

Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?


----------



## steinjw

steinjw said:


> Has anyone tried this repair kit - Sony KD34XS955 Blinking Light Repair Kit - from TvRepairKits.com?


Or, any one of their other kits to address this problem? Just looking to get a sense of their product's efficacy and their support. Thanks.


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## Gurn

New member and resurrecting this topic for others trying to fix their tv.

A few months back, I purchased a 2002 Sony KV-32HV600 [DA4] chassis , that after about a week developed 7 blinking lights and TV would not turn on intermittently. I could generally hit ON repeatedly and it would eventually turn on , but that was getting to be a bit of an annoyance.

After doing some reading online including here, I decided to tackle the issue by replacing the IC6501 & IC8002 chips which are said to be the most common problem.
I ordered new MCZ3001DB chips with IC sockets from an ebay user back in Nov/'14 and finally got around to installing them yesterday. After a careful partial removal of D board and wire braid and solder sucking the joints I was able to remove the 2 IC's, [ not an easy task, and some fiddling around even after de-soldering] I then carefully installed the new sockets and soldered them in place as per the original IC's, then installed the new IC's.

I now get 3 blinking lights and the TV will not turn on period. Installed the old chips in the new sockets, same issue.
Did some further reading in this thread and see that this issue may be caused by faulty IC6505, part # SE-140N . 
My question is do I even bother at this point ?

The TV is just shy of 170 Lbs., on the 2nd floor , master bedroom , on a dresser 4.5 ft. high so if remove it , it's gone !

My venture into the world of Sony began last October when my purchased new, 1995 Panasonic CT-27SF22T1 went belly up for third time in 3 years [ring fractures on the A board and vertical hold chip] so my repairman finally said enough was enough. Personally I think the Panansonic had better black picture tube , but the Sony has such great sound that it is hard to simply write it off. 

Then again I could simply put my spare Panasonic CT-32SF12 on the dresser and be done...


** On a side note, I liked this Sony so much that I found another KV-32HV600 with matching stand for our cottage. Works great for now , Knock on wood !
That tv though the same model does not have the exact same sound system , no WOW feature as the one that's down. Never looked at the chassis number on earlier or later production ?
The bass is not as boomy on the cottage TV. I'll have to check the year and chassis number next time I am there.


----------



## Gurn

On the 3 blinks issue, After doing some further reading I see that T603 and R672 could be the culprit as well ?
Part numbers for those ?

Location of IC6505 ?

thanks guys !


----------



## Floydage

Gurn said:


> That tv though the same model does not have the exact same sound system , no WOW feature as the one that's down. Never looked at the chassis number on earlier or later production ?
> The bass is not as boomy on the cottage TV. I'll have to check the year and chassis number next time I am there.


Maybe retrofit the sound board? Maybe the speakers too. Hopefully not the cabinet (#/size of speakers and acoustics). Of course there could be an issue with audio software if it's not fully contained in the sound board.


----------



## Gurn

Floydage said:


> Maybe retrofit the sound board? Maybe the speakers too. Hopefully not the cabinet (#/size of speakers and acoustics). Of course there could be an issue with audio software if it's not fully contained in the sound board.



I have the SE-104N transistor for IC6505 coming in the mail today, gonna pop it in and cross my fingers. I've checked my work 4 times on the 6501 & 8002 , If this new one doesn't fix it, I am considering a new "D" board or just wait and find another HV600 .

If I can't resolve the HV600's issues this afternoon , I am probably gonna take it apart and save the audio portion or simply rob parts off of it for the other for when the inevitable happens to it. 

I think the WOW was a later feature (?), but I am no Sony expert. I don't know the exact model numbers but I also have a 24 & 27 " in this same serious, they have the same silver/charcoal arched front housing and both have WOW, sure those are both 2004's . One is a bedroom tv the other for gaming at the cottage. Both were free.


I had someone willing to give me an XBR900 something before the holidays, but after going through the hell I did finding 2 stands for the HV600's , I believe I will stay the course on the 32's for now.

I will post my results this afternoon, fingers crossed !!


----------



## Floydage

I had an RCA Home Theater that had this fancy Hughes SRS audio board/module. Later I came across a plain jane version of this RCA and it looked like the Hughes would plug into it; the software part I don't know.


----------



## Gurn

*No go*

SE-104N installed and still have 3 blinks. Went over my socket install a 4th time and cant find anything . Unless the guy on ebay sold me bad MCZ3001DB's , I give up..

Time to pull it apart and the rest to the dump... Love the tv, but done messing with it. Just cant see spending $150 for a new "D" board when the tv cost me $25.


----------



## Floydage

RIP. GL with the parts you keep and the audio mod if you take that on.


----------



## Gurn

Odd how things work..

I just found and picked up a beat up KV-32HS500 which utilizes the same D board as my HV600. I am gonna swap the D boards out.

Big question, two of the 3 leads from the flyback can be removed , one red one appears as though it can only be cut to disconnect. Are these leads press fit or is there a release pin on the flyback ?
Can I simply solder it back together after cutting and double heat shrink the splice ?


----------



## Floydage

Gurn said:


> Odd how things work..
> 
> I just found and picked up a beat up KV-32HS500 which utilizes the same D board as my HV600. I am gonna swap the D boards out.
> 
> Big question, two of the 3 leads from the flyback can be removed , one red one appears as though it can only be cut to disconnect. Are these leads press fit or is there a release pin on the flyback ?
> Can I simply solder it back together after cutting and double heat shrink the splice ?


If you're referring to the big thick wire that goes to the side of the picture tube (anode) with the funky rubber boot, then no they're molded to the best of my knowledge. The extreme high voltage arcs too easily for sloppier connections and requires heavy duty insulation. 'Maybe' there's HV specialty repair items that can be bought specifically for splicing these.
What you need to do is take it off at the funky rubber boot at the picture tube. First use a grounded screwdriver to reach under the boot and discharge it. Then you grab the butt part of that boot and it pulls out. It clamps into a hole tight and can be a little tough, wiggle it a little too while pulling. May have to assist 'a little' with the screwdriver from under the boot.


----------



## Gurn

there are 3 wires that come off the flyback.
The one up to the tube which I have removed in the past without a grounded driver [eesh] dont have one.
There is a thinner white wire with connector up to the back of the tube board , and then there is a red wire same diameter that goes to a ceramic block same board which does not have a clip, this is the one I need to cut.
It's that or re-use the flyback on the new board ?


----------



## Floydage

Gurn said:


> The one up to the tube which I have removed in the past without a grounded driver [eesh] dont have one.


I don't understand this. I'm thinking you're referring to a different transformer than I'm thinking about. I guess if it's a skinny wire than it won't matter as long as a solid and well-soldered connection insulated heavily. Sounds like you can't unsolder from the board or ceramic block, like it is all an assembly.

Yeah I've discharged the anode without grounding with a well-insulated screwdriver. Better safe than sorry when telling others though. 

Gotta go...


----------



## Gurn

My flyback has 3 wires coming from it. The thick one goes up to the crt tube, and a then 2 about half as thick, a white and also red which go to the same board on the back of the crt tube. The white has a plug but the red does not.


----------



## Gurn

SUCCESS ! Well sort of anyway .

The people I got the donor from complained that the set would not turn on all the time , but were quick to say that they had it in the coldest room in the house, which made me think about the hairdryer trick many have spoken about.
I tested the KV-32HS500 last night and got a bunch of codes. 4, then 6, then it would blink continually once every second until I unplugged the unit.
This led me to believe I could be in for more headaches simply swapping the D boards out.

Impatient, I got a wild hair this morning after doing some reading about removing the thin red and white wires from the flyback. They do NOT need to be cut, they do pull out of the unit with a little effort.
I then decided before changing out the common problem IC's or installing sockets [ Unit still has the original MCZ3001D chips] in the donor HS500 "D" board, that I'd put it in my HV600 to see what codes would come up .

To my surprise the set came on, but I still get a 4 blink code followed by 1 rapid blink.

So I think for now,I am going to leave well enough alone and run the set until I absolutely have to do something. Though these sets are obviously issue loaded & potential money pits, I love this damn thing and am going to purchase a "D" board from Sears for the inevitable.

Bonus is that I was able to snag the speakers , sub, most of the harnessing,and the tactile button boards . Not sure what else I'd take as it appears as though the other code is related to the A board. Further, I believe that due to the HS500 having a different DRC pallette configuration [ 500 is auto ? , 600 is manual,? ] that the only other board I'd want is the audio and I have no idea where that is , or if it is worth pulling.

It will be a shame to trash the tube on the HS500...

Just ran the self diagnosis screen/test and all values 2-10 [101]come up at Zero. I would imagine after the repair the set will have to be used a while to wait or check for now errors ?


----------



## Gurn

Apparently good things don't last with Sony....

2 days in, and this is what Ive got..

This morning TV wont turn on without using the hairdryer trick.. 

The other issue that irks me is during a tv commercial that has a white background the screen will shift towards a green background slowly, then correct its self to a degree. This was happening before the board change.

Put it into service mode and have this:

2: +B OCP =0
3: +B OVP =0
4: V Stop =1
5: AKB1 =0
6: LOW B = 1
7: H-STOP =1
101: WDT24 =0

Got the manual online this morning, glad it was free as the [print is so damn small I cant make jack out. Gonna replace IC5004 to hopefully correct the 4 blink.

then the 2, MCZ3001DB's without sockets .

If that doesn't work, I believe I am done messing with anything made by Sony.
What a joke.


----------



## Gurn

Istalled sockets and New MCZ3001DB [7 blink] IC5004 [4blinks]

What are the chances that all of the above are bad ? went through 4] of the MCZ3001db's


When done got 3 blinks.... Installed IC6505 for the 3 blink code.... went through 3 of those checking... I still have 3 blinks and it won't turn again ....Can't enter Service mode either..

The work on the donor board is flawless, borderline factory looking. 
I quit...


This, the donor set, and the 3 at the cottage are all going to the dump before I have a damn coronary.


----------



## Floydage

Do you know what the 3 blink code represents per Sony or someone knowledgeable of the codes?


----------



## LiquidSnake

> *Three blinks - B+ over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672.*




http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/2013/05/sony-trinitron-color-tvs-standby-light.html


----------



## T-Max

See *post #108* of 1824 05-06-2008, 05:54 AM for a good fix (with pictures) of the problem I had today, which is that my Sony KV-27HS420 had the dreaded "red standby blinking light" problem and thus wouldn't stay turned on. 

This happened this morning and is the first time it's happened altho' I have had problems before when it would shut off pretty quickly after I hit the 'on' button, but then I'd just do it again and it would then stay on. I figured it was because I had hit the 'on' button twice by mistake, but now I'm thinking it was just a sign of things to come. Because this morning it just would not stay on at all and the standby light kept blinking (6 times, then later 7 times)

So I unplugged it for maybe 5-15 minutes thinking that might "reset" it, and same thing. Still no good.

If you go to that post you'll see that eclipsedave said:

_If I left it alone for a few days, it would still turn on fine, but the "leave alone" time period soon got longer and longer. I believe it had 6 or 7 blinks going on._

But he didn't explain what he meant by the "leave alone" time; that is, whether he left the TV plugged in or unplugged.

So I unplugged my TV and left it for 7 hours. 

And when I plugged it back in there was a clicking sound (like maybe it was turning on) and I looked at the red standby light -- which was blinking. I think it blinked 6 or 7 times, then definitely blinked 7 times again, and then stopped. I think it stopped after 2 "cycles" of blinking.

I then noticed that the TV was on because the "normal" and "video1" green words were displayed. So I clicked on my tuner box and I had normal operation.

That was 3+ hours ago and it's been working normally ever since.

Suffice to say I will be unplugging it again when I finish watching TV for the night, and then I'll plug it back in tomorrow.

So those of you who are having this problem might try this little trick. Again, I had to leave it unplugged for several hours because a shorter time (like 5-15 minutes) didn't do anything.


----------



## Floydage

Yeah I've experience that with modern day electronics with their 'memory.' I've also found some get a sort of a reboot by pulling the plug while on (my ChannelMaster DTV converter boxes infrequently go interline twitter whacko and this is the only thing I've found to cure it; and I noticed they momentarily bring up a CM screen on power-up that I've only seen during a factory reset/NIB first power-up (yet everything else is not reset)).


----------



## T-Max

Floydage said:


> Yeah I've experience that with modern day electronics with their 'memory.' ....


So I watched it last night for 7 hours with no issues. It seems that with this problem, once it does turn on, it will stay on.

I then shut it off (acted normal) and unplugged it for the night.

Then this morning I plugged it back in after it sat unplugged for about 10 hours. On plugging it back in there was no audible sound at all and when I looked at the standby light, it wasn't lit and it wasn't blinking. 

So just plugging it back in this morning did nothing (which is to be expected if it's working normally). This is different from when I plugged it back in last evening after 7 hours of being unplugged because at that time, the set apparently came on by itself and the standby light blinked for a couple of cycles (I think)

So then (today) I hit the 'on' button on the remote and it came on normally. The standby light DID come on as soon as I hit the 'on' button and then blinked 11 times until the set finished starting up.

I never really noticed this before but it probably always did this. I do know that the red standby light does come on at times, so it apparently comes on when ya turn the set on. I never really paid attention before, but I sure will now.

Cuz it didn't come on at all when I turned it off last night (like it probably shouldn't)

I watched TV for an hour today and then shut it off and unplugged it.

That was @ 1 PM and I will fire it up later (assuming it fires up) but not sure when. It's after 5:00 now so it's been off for 4+ hours already and I expect that would be long enough.

So the bottom line on all this is this: When it wouldn't turn on yesterday morning and I got the blinking standby light, I ultimately ended up unplugging it for 7 hours. On plugging it back in, it made a sound (like it does when it comes on) and the standby lite blinked for 2 cycles of 6 or 7 blinks (I think). It definitely was lit and blinking. But the set stayed on and the lite went out and I was in business for the evening.

Maybe the standby light was just blinking 11 times, like it did today. Cuz that's what it did today (and maybe that's what it always does)

When I plugged it back in _this_ morning, after having normal operation all evening and no blinking lite problem, it made no sound at all and the standby lite apparently never came on and certainly wasn't blinking. Thus it seemed to be operating normally today.

So I gather that once you have this problem, leaving it unplugged for (?) long "resets" things so that on plugging it back in, it will fire up on its own and stay on.

Which means that maybe the ICs aren't even "bad"? Things just need to be "reset"?

Or maybe mine are just "going bad."

AKA, "breaking bad"



I'll monitor it and make notes for myself and update things after I get a reasonable history of how it behaves, yada yada.

P.S.: I'm a little reluctant to "do the fix" out of fear of ruining the board and thus likely having to scrap the TV. The fix sounds easy enough but if I can work around it this way, or even just leave it plugged in and unplug it whenever this problem crops up, I'll go that way.

If the ICs do go completely bad, and I have to do the fix, that's another story. But for now I think I'll try "nursing" it along like this.


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## Floydage

Yeah it seems like folks here had diminishing success getting their Sonys to turn on as the chips gradually went bad. They appear to control some sort of power-up/control/sequencing circuitry combined with problem sensing feedback.

BTW my Panny has a mechanical power button that puts it into a more efficient deep sleep; the remote won't work when this switch is used to turn it off. If your Sony has this too you might see what it does via alternate power on/off scenarios.


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## T-Max

T-Max said:


> ....I'll monitor it and make notes for myself and update things after I get a reasonable history of how it behaves, yada yada.


Well, I thought I was on to something, but it wasn't to be. I plugged it in 45 min ago and it went back to the same problem. I tried to turn it on with the remote 3 more times and no go. So then I unplugged it for 10 min and (once again) when I plugged it back in it turned itself back on. But it didn't stay on cuz I still had the same problem (again).

So then I hit the 'on' button on the set itself, and it came on.

So I have at least one more night of TV

BTW, I dunno if I said, but this is a KV-27HS420


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## T-Max

T-Max said:


> Well, I thought I was on to something, but it wasn't to be...


Just to update my prior post (and also to maybe be more informative than that) I did not unplug the TV last night. When I turned it on this morning, I did so with the 'on' button on the set itself. It came on normally. I then shut it off after about an hour, leaving it plugged in, and just now turned it on with the button on the set itself and it turned on normally.

I probably am not on to anything (again) but I wonder if turning it on this way, as opposed to using the remote, makes a difference. I suppose I doubt that's the case, but this is the 3rd time that it's come on using the button on the set itself as opposed to using the remote (see last post). Plus, yesterday was after I tried a few times with the remote (see last post)

Also note that when my set is turned on, the standby light blinks 11 times. I think I already mentioned that but I counted it again just now.

Okay, now for those of you who have a KV34HS420 (which should be similar to my KV-27HS420) and want to do the repair, see this guy's repair (with details and pictures):

http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/

I haven't read thru his description yet but it looks pretty detailed to me.


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## Floydage

Aha! Does it have a mechanical power button like I described of my Panny above? It could very well be that they come out of a different power conditioning state (i.e. my mechanical comes out of a completely off state for the most part, not from standby).


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## T-Max

Floydage said:


> Aha! Does it have a mechanical power button like I described of my Panny above? It could very well be that they come out of a different power conditioning state (i.e. my mechanical comes out of a completely off state for the most part, not from standby).


Not sure if the button on the set is a "mechanical power button" or not, nor do I know if turning the set on with that button causes it to "come out of a different power conditioning state" or otherwise starts it differently than using the remote does ....

But it did start right up and turn on today when I used that button again. That's the fourth time turning it on with that button has worked, and not yet failed, whereas using the remote had failed a few times and hasn't yet worked (since this problem started).

Having said that, I doubt that using the button on the set "starts it up" any differently than using the remote. I say that because I recall that in the past the set had shut itself down occasionally when I tried to turn it on, and at least a couple of times I was using the on-button on the set rather than the remote. It also occasionally shut itself down when I was turning it on using the remote, but I always assumed that these incidents were because I had accidentally hit each "on" button (on the remote and on the set) twice, thus turning it on and then turning it off again in quick succession.

That may have been what was happening; or it may have been that the ICs were beginning to fail, tho' I never had the blinking standby light before the other day.

So if the ICs were responsible for the prior incidents (where the TV started to come on and then shut off quickly before the screen lit), they did not result in a blinking standby light and the subsequent inability to get the set to turn on properly.

I suppose I'll eventually find out if using the button on the set "works" reliably, but I doubt that it's any sort of a workaround to the basic problem.

Which is to say, I just think I've been lucky for the past couple of days. From what I've read here about other people's experience, once the problem crops up the set can be coaxed to turn on for awhile before it eventually just won't come on anymore. I assume that's because the faulty IC finally goes full-failure as opposed to a more sporadic failure state after the problem first becomes apparent via the blinking standby light.


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## Floydage

On my Panny the mechanical button takes it out of any kind of standby - there's no standby light on and the remote won't turn the TV on.

"From what I've read here about other people's experience, once the problem crops up the set can be coaxed to turn on for awhile before it eventually just won't come on anymore."

Indeed, that seems to be the case of what little I've read it about it here.


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## T-Max

Floydage said:


> On my Panny the mechanical button takes it out of any kind of standby - there's no standby light on and the remote won't turn the TV on....


Ya, your Panny undoubtedly has a completely different situation with the mechanical button than these sets have. With these sets, you can turn it on either with the button or the remote.

It turned on again today using the button but I have one more time to go if I'm gonna have TV tonight. I hope my luck holds out for awhile longer because I'm quite sure this "button trick" is no real trick at all.
----
8:22 PM: On again w/ the button! My luck still good.


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## Floydage

So I take it that unlike my Panny, it will work power up with the remote regardless of the button position...

Anyhow GL, may the button trick stay with you!


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## T-Max

Floydage said:


> So I take it that unlike my Panny, it will work power up with the remote regardless of the button position...


Yes. And it just now again turned on with the button. So it has consistently (knock wood) turned on with the button each and every time since this problem first showed up. 

But I still think it's just dumb luck. If it continues for days and weeks and months, I guess I'll have to change my view on that.

In the meantime I'm getting the parts and practicing IC desoldering on the many other junk monitors,TVs, old computers and other similar electronic equipment I have lying around here.


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## T-Max

T-Max said:


> Yes. And it just now again turned on with the button. So it has consistently (knock wood) turned on with the button each and every time since this problem first showed up....


Just reporting in to say that since that last post it has continued to turn on each and every time with the button on the set, including this morning. That amounts to 4 times since last post because I've only turned it on once each day (tho' I'll be turning it off later and turning it back on tonight -- or, at least, trying to).

Also note that it has turned on each time I've hit the button. There have been no failures to turn on (in which case I assume I'd have the problem again)

I have NOT tried turning it on with the remote at all other than back when the problem first cropped up, as I reported in an earlier post.

Maybe turning it on with the remote involves the problematic ICs and turning it on with the button doesn't?

Edit: ~9:05 PM: It turned turned right on again a few minutes ago using the button, and I noticed something that I don't think happened when I used the remote to try to turn it on back when this problem cropped up on the 15th. That is, when I hit the button, I see that within a second or two the screen flashes at the edges. I notice the flash at the lower right corner near the button because that's where I stand when I hit the button.

Maybe this happens with the remote as well. I dunno. But I'm certainly not going to try turning it on with the remote while the button trick is still working.


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## T-Max

T-Max said:


> ...Also note that it has turned on each time I've hit the button. There have been no failures to turn on (in which case I assume I'd have the problem again)
> * * *
> Maybe turning it on with the remote involves the problematic ICs and turning it on with the button doesn't? ...


Well, I hate to risk jinxing myself, but I just turned on the TV for the night (using the button again) and it turned on right away with no problem.

That makes the 15th time I've turned this TV on via the button on the set since the 17th of this month -- with no failures at all.

The "blinking standby light problem" started on the 15th of the month and I "cured" it once by unplugging the set overnight and then plugging it back in next morning (see my post #1825 which is my 1st post on this problem).

Then if you read my subsequent posts you will see that I got it to turn on once more with the remote, and then I was unable to turn it on with the remote even tho' I tried 3 times (with the remote). See my post #1829 . Then (also in post #1829 ) I got it to turn on by using the button on the TV. That was on the 16th of this month.

Then in my next post (post #1830 ) I noted that I turned it on twice by using the button on the TV.

That then took me to the 17th of this month and, as I noted above, I've successfully turned it on 15 times since the 17th. Which means that since the problem cropped up, I've been able to turn the TV on successfully -- by using the button on the set itself -- a total of 18 times, with no failures and no sign of the blinking standby light problem.

So I would suggest that the next person to post with the "blinking standby light problem" try using the button on the set to turn it on and give the rest of us feedback on how that works out.

In the meantime, I'll continue to keep track of my situation and hope my luck holds out and/or that I'm on to something here, and that I never have to actually do the repair unless I want to turn the set on using the remote.

BTW, I _have_ been using the remote to turn the set off each and every time, but I no longer use it to turn the set on.

If you don't hear from me again for awhile, it means that the button is still working for me.


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## Floydage

Yep, you may be onto something. Glad I could help. 
The only thing I can think of for others is if there was some unusual transition from remote to button (ex: unplugged set in between).

GL!


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## T-Max

Floydage said:


> ...The only thing I can think of for others is if there was some unusual transition from remote to button (ex: unplugged set in between).GL!


Not sure what you mean, but I have not been unplugging the set at all other than as I said in my 1st post and the next few posts. Since I've been using the button to turn it on, I've never unplugged it again.

Also, I just turned the TV on again using the button, and also did once yesterday. So that adds 2 more successful turn-ons since my last post on the 26th.


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## Floydage

Gotcha and so I take it unplugging the set never came into play 'right before' using the button.
Was easier for me to inquire than to read back through all those posts.


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## SwiftSweeper

Hi guys and gals.

I has been a sad day for me. After performing like a champion for almost a decade, my xbr 960 seems to finally kick the bucket. Even though, I moved on to Panasonic ZT60 plasma as my primary display 2 years ago, I am still fond of my xbr 960 and have many great memories watching movies and tv shows and playing video games on the xbr 960. 

Here is the description of the problem. The tv tries to power itself on immediately after I plug it into power without me needing to press power button on the remote or the tv itself. Sometimes, I hear the normal degaussing sound and the normal click sound on the power up. Other times, it is just the same click sound without the degaussing sound.

After the tv tries to power up, the front red light blinks 6 times, pauses, blinks 7 times, pauses again, blinks 7 times again, and continues the cylcle of pausing and blinking 7 times indefinitely. Except for the flashing light, the tv looks dead otherwise. After the tv is plugged in into power, if I press the power button on the remote, I hear the click sound again, but nothing else is happening.

To fix the tv, I tried unplugging it from power for as long as several hours and then pluging it back into power. It tried this process multiple times. I also tried plugging the tv into power strip and directly into a wall power outlet. I even tried different power outlets. Nothing has worked. 

From my Google search, I found that 6 blinking red lights seem to indicate Power Supply issue, and 7 blinking red lights seem to indicate Horizontal Deflection issue. Both issues seem to require part(s) replacement and service by a qualified technician. From my online research, it is around $200 - $300 for part(s) + labor to fix each issue. 

As much as I like this tv, I am not willing to pay that much or go through trouble of ordering parts myself, opening up the tv, and messing with dangerous voltages to fix it.

I am also confused why I am getting both 6 blinking red lights (initially) and 7 blinking red lights (thereafter). Perhaps, the issue is not Power Supply or/and Horizontal Deflection, but something else is broken. 

Is there anything else that I can try to fix the tv, or do I just have to replace it at this point?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## T-Max

SwiftSweeper said:


> Hi guys and gals.
> 
> I has been a sad day for me....


Have you read any of the posts on this board? You don't say you have and you don't seem to have any knowledge that we all have had this "blinking standby light" problem. Which is what this board is about.

You can start with my post #1838 above, which refers to my problem and also refers to some of my subsequent posts. If you can ever get it to come on again -- which should be do-able as others here have succeeded in doing so, particularly for some considerable time after the problem first presents -- then you can try what I've been doing, which is to avoid the remote for turning the set *on*, and to just use the power button on the set itself to turn it on.

You can use the remote for turning it off, as I have been doing each and every time, but do not use the remote to turn the set on.

At this point, I have successfully turned the set on via the power button on the set itself 27 times without any failures. If you read each of my prior posts from the time the problem presented, you will see that I had no success turning it on with the remote (even trying several times) but then after I got it to finally turn back on, I then avoided the remote entirely for purposes of turning the set on. Thus I've used only the power button on the set ever since.

My set is not the same model as yours, but I'm curious as to whether your use of the button on the set would work as well as mine has so far. So if you can get it to turn on, avoid the remote (except for turning it off) and report back.

If you want to do the repair, refer to post #108 and read forward from there.


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## blueceo

*6 & 7 flashing lights*

OK this might sound crazy I have had this problem on my 61" KP ES61MN1 for 2 years now the engineers have been out and I have had 2 different reports both involving board which are now obsolete 
I live in the Philippines so it tends to be hot the TV was stood by the large bedroom windows one day I tried to turn the set on after many many months it worked when I went to move it I noticed the back of the unit was very warm from the sun moved it back to the lounge turned it on with the power switch still worked. Next day came to turn it on nothing back to flashing lights this is the crazy bit I put a hair dryer in the rear of the TV left it there for 20 minutes or so turned it on again using the power switch it works fine. The hair dryer has lived in the back of the TV for the past 2 years 20 minutes preheat and all is OK.

Moving on I have done further research and found a guy who calls himself Always Very Busy he has cured the problem of the 6-7 flashing lights by replacing the thermal fuse which as I understand is the preheater when you turn the set on from cold. 

HOPE THIS HELPS


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## Floydage

This thread is within the CRT forum so you might have better luck within the forum for that type of TV (plus the CRT forum has become somewhat of a ghost land).


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## T-Max

Floydage said:


> This thread is within the CRT forum so you might have better luck within the forum for that type of TV (plus the CRT forum has become somewhat of a ghost land).


Ya, this thread has indeed become something of a ghost land.

Just to update my situation, my set presented with the problem on June 15th. Since then, I've had 3 more failures and 118 successful "turn-ons". Generally, I only turn it on once a day and don't unplug it unless it fails to turn on, whereupon I unplug it for at least 7 hours or overnight. I'm not saying there's anything magical about 7 hours, it's just that I usually leave it unplugged for that long or at least that long.

Here's the actual breakdown from my notes:

Problem cropped up (6/15) then 34 turn ons. Then a failure (7/7), then 13 turn ons; then a failure (7/15), then 21 turn ons; then the last failure (7/30), then 50 turn ons. That totals 118 ons + 3 failures.

I also note that my last post was 7/3 and I apparently didn't post about the links I found which also referred to a hairdryer (or hair dryer) as a potential "fix" for the problem. Just do a word search for hairdryer or hair dryer at these links and find those references:

http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437

http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/

I have also used a heat source under the set a couple of times when I was concerned that it might fail to turn on. That's only been during times of high humidity conditions in the house and the heat seems to have helped.


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## Floydage

Poor sigma but at least the odds are well in your favor. 
Hopefully winter won't make it worse. Interesting that it started mid-June though.

I switch my stuff off completely when not in use via power strips to eliminate 'vampire' current (oh GW you cracked me up ). Wonder if that would change up things?


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## T-Max

T-Max said:


> ...Just to update my situation, my set presented with the problem on June 15th. Since then, I've had 3 more failures and 118 successful "turn-ons". Generally, I only turn it on once a day and don't unplug it unless it fails to turn on, whereupon I unplug it for at least 7 hours or overnight. I'm not saying there's anything magical about 7 hours, it's just that I usually leave it unplugged for that long or at least that long.
> 
> Here's the actual breakdown from my notes:
> 
> Problem cropped up (6/15) then 34 turn ons. Then a failure (7/7), then 13 turn ons; then a failure (7/15), then 21 turn ons; then the last failure (7/30), then 50 turn ons. That totals 118 ons + 3 failures....


Just to further update my situation, I now have 104 successful turn ons since the last failure on July 30th. I think it's safe to say that I'm on to something.


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## HomerSimpson2015

*Help…..6/7 blink error…chip replaced…now another problem!*

Great details on the repair for the IC chips on the D-board.
We encountered the 6/7 blink error on our KD-34XBR960. 
Purchased the 2 chips and replaced them.
Now I am getting a 3 blink error.

Hate to landfill the TV. Any input on what to try next?

Thanks in advance!


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## Ricardo Andrade

Hello, i have sony trinitron KV-32FX66 and starts blink 5 ou 6 times orange, and no picture/sound
anybody can help me ? 
Thanks


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## T-Max

Well, my TV set finally won't turn on. It started on 6-15-2015 and started acting up again on 8-30-2018 when it didn't turn on and had the dreaded blinking lights. But then when I hit the button again it did turn on. This lasted until today when it just wouldn't turn on at all. I've unplugged it and hoping it will reset itself, but I'm not terribly hopeful about that. I've been using the button on the set itself to turn it on ever since shortly after it started.

The first failure was on 7-7-2015 followed by 13 successful turn ons. Then another failure on 7-15-2015, followed by 21 successful turn ons. Then the last failure on 7-30-2015.

Ever since then (for more than 3 years now) it has worked successfully by using the button on the set itself.

Another note: I noticed for the past several days that when it doesn't turn on, it doesn't "flash" at the edges of the picture tube.

So if I see it flash, I'll know it's working.

To see my first post on this problem, go to post #1825 which is on page 61. Then you can follow my post updates after that one.


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## T-Max

Okay, I had it unplugged for ~2 hrs 8 min & then plugged it in. But I had trouble plugging it in so I did it twice. Then it had the blinking lights (6x) and I pushed the button maybe 3 or more times & it finally came on w/ a flash at the edge. I will unplug it tonight (more like early this morning) & let it sit to maybe "reset" itself. I might also turn it off w/ the button. I've been turning it off with the remote previously.


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## Mhael66

Hello everyone, this thread has been a great resource in trying to keep the trinitron alive and it looks like it is over due to be resurrected from the dead! I have only managed to get through the first 48 pages so far lol. Anyways I am a little burned out on reading, so I thought I would post my problem since I think I have a possible culprit. So here is my story: I have a 40xbr800 and a few months ago I was playing some xbox 360 on it and the screen went solid red and then the set powered off. I unplugged it for a few days and the problem seemed to have resolved itself, I assumed my powerstrip was getting old and having both the 360 and tv running on it had caused the issue. I only used the television for a few hours after that over the course of the next 2-3 months and it didn't have any issues. A couple weeks ago I was down in the basement doing some cleaning and rearranging (yes we carried a 40in crt into the basement) anyways, I wanted to put something on while I was down there and the tv ran flawlessly for around 5 hours. The next evening I went back down to the basement to finish up my cleaning, turned on the tv, and about 10 seconds later the screen went solid red and powered off accompanied by 7 blink code. Long story short, I found this thread and performed the IC replacement. Unfortunately it did not solve my problem. Upon closer inspection the Rubycon 250v1200uf capacitor in my picture seems to have a slight bulge at the top, so I am thinking replacing it is probably the next logical step. I don't have much experience in this field, so I thought it might behoove me to consult those wiser than myself. Is this just a normal electrolytic capacitor and will any equivalent capacitor be an adequate replacement? Is the black sealant used to support it something special or can I just use some gasket maker?










Edit: Heh...if I would have read a couple more pages earlier I would have found some posts talking about the bulged capacitors.
Edit2: The sony part number is 1-131-940-11 but I can't find any information. How important is the ESR and ripple current ratings? I am planning on ordering a couple lgx2e122melb50 from digikey. Wondering if I should replace both, the other looks fine and I am leaning towards if its not broke don't fix it...but I don't know.


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## Mhael66

I know this place is pretty dead, but I figure it can't hurt to post in case someone happens to see it later on. I replaced the bulged capacitor and its twin, powered on the set and everything seemed to be working normally. I didn't have anything hooked up to the inputs, but I cycled through inputs and the menus and everything looked good to go. I powered off the tv and replaced the back cover. I then hooked up a ps3 and powered it on and then powered on the set. The screen came on with a red hue before going solid red and then shutting down, accompanied by 7 blinking lights. I disconnected all the inputs and tried powering on the set again, solid red with some green lines converging towards the center and powering off, exact same problem I had before. I am going to pull the D-board back out and recheck everything I soldered and recheck all the connections, but I have a feeling the problem is something else. Maybe someone with more knowledge than myself will see this and be able to offer some help. Anyways, thanks for reading.


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## WegamaniacHD

I just wanted to post my solution for anyone who comes across this thread. I read through all 1800+ posts but didn’t find this information here.

If you are having trouble with the flashing standby light on a later-model Sony CRT (using power board A-1300-319-A “D-Board”), the short answer is try the MCZ3000D / MCZ3000DB IC replacements for IC6501 and IC8002. If that didn't fix it (or if you did that years ago), another likely problem is capacitor C6556. The revised MCZ3000DB chips seem to be more resilient than the original MCZ3000D version. To get a better idea of these parts, locations, and the circuit, the Service Manual for the TV should be available online. Try searching by model number.

I had already replaced the IC6501 and IC8002 successfully in 2012 including adding sockets. After 9 more years of beautiful HD images the flashing standby light reappeared and the TV would not turn on. I typically had 6 or 7 blinks, but also saw 4 sometimes (possibly because I hadn't reassembled properly).

I investigated this problem for months, found and fixed the problem, then found the following website that confirmed my suspicions (post #22). I missed this post in early searches because it only refers to an XBR, but my HS510 has the same power board.








Won't Power on & Standby LED blinks


This is probably the right location, but if you are wrong and connect it you could do serious damage. G2 voltages are typically 400-600Vdc. PM me so we can sort it out...




www.hometheatershack.com





Capacitor C6556 reduces voltage spikes (overshoot?) on the 135V power rail. These spikes will especially be present at turn-on. As the capacitor ages, it will offer less stability, which trips the overvoltage/overcurrent sensors (and may even cause of the premature death of your MCZ3000D ICs). It appears that C6556 was under-specified from the factory, at only 160V rating for the 135V rail. Over time, the spikes, temperatures, and age are slowly wearing out the cap. I suggest replacing C6556 with a 33uF capacitor rated at 250V minimum. I ordered EEU-EE2G330S, UCS2V330MHD, and UPM2E330MHD1TN and ultimately ended up using the UCS2V330MHD for low resistance and high ripple current (any of those should be acceptable). The hometheatershack XBR post suggests increasing above 33uF, but I did not do this because it could change the ramp-up time of the voltage rail.


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## WegamaniacHD

A follow-up on bad capacitors:
To check for the capacitor problem, the easiest step is to blow warm air (such as a hair dryer) into the vents on the right side (as viewed from the front) of the TV, angled downward as much as possible (the D-board is located bottom-right). After warming slightly, unplug and re-plug the TV and attempt power-on. If it turns on after heating then it’s likely a capacitor issue.

Here's a link to a video to show what's happening with the aged capacitors:




This is why the set will stay on once you have turned it on. Mine would only fail to start after it had been off for 8+ hours. It also started failing in the fall as the house became cooler.

To verify, I opened the back of the TV and heated a large screwdriver with a hair dryer. Then I touched the suspected cap with the hot screwdriver to conduct heat into only that component and observed that the TV would turn on after heating capacitor C6556. If this doesn’t work, you can try to heat other capacitors until you identify the problem (assuming that it worked when you heated the area of the board). There can be high voltage present, so be very careful working in this area.

Good luck! Hopefully this helps preserve these peak-CRT vintage sets. These techniques will work with modern TVs as well, or anything with electrolytic capacitors.


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## WegamaniacHD

Search friendly, buzzword-filled summary:
This post, thread, and the 2 prior posts are relevant to a Sony CRT with the flashing standby light issue with a power "D-board" (part number A-1300-319-A) (models KV-32HS510 / KV-34HS510 / KV-36HS510 / KV-34XBR800 / KV-40XBR800, maybe more?). Especially if you have already replaced IC6501 and IC8002 with MCZ3000DB, another option is to replace capacitor C6556. I suggest maintaining the 33uF rating, but increasing the voltage rating to at least 250V.


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