# Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1



## Otto Pylot

This is a quick and dirty list of the more common, certified (mostly) HDMI cables for the HDMI 2.1 options sets. It is by no means complete so any corrections or additions are more than welcome. Hopefully it will help to narrow down the confusing mess of HDMI cables. Amazon and Monoprice cables were not included because they are resellers, not cable mfrs. A few cables have been tested with some of the current HDMI 2.1 tv's, game boxes, and GPU's so read the specifications carefully. Certification is NOT a guarantee of compatibility, so thoroughly test your cables prior to final installation. With active cables (active or hybrid fiber) the most reliable connection will be a single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, extenders, etc. in-between.

HDMI 2.1 Option Sets (Ultra High Speed HDMI):

ALLM (Audio Low Latency Mode), sets the ideal latency setting
eARC (enhanced Audio Return Channel), HD Audio up to 37Mbps
QFT (Quick Frame Transport), lower latency smoother for no-lag gaming
QMS (Quick Media Switching), for movies and videos, requires VRR
VRR (Variable Refresh Rate), for gaming
Supports VESA DSC 1.2a link compression
Supports the latest color spaces including BT.2020 at 10, 12, and 16 bits
FRL (Fixed Rate Link) Signaling Technology, replaces TMDS and is used for higher, uncompressed resolutions and ultrahigh bandwidths up to 48Gbps.
Supports Dynamic HDR

HDMI 2.1a - same as HDMI 2.1 but adds:

Source-Based Tone Mapping (SBTM)

Offloads some of the HDR tone mapping to the source as well as the device (tv). It is not mandatory so mfrs are free to implement it or not, and it will not require new cables. The idea is to allow the source to optimize the content before passing it along to the display so that the user doesn't have to calibrate for HDR because the source will optimize the signal for the display.

HDMI Power Port

Allows HDMI cables to be powered directly from the HDMI port without additional power sources (power inserter for example). Installation is the same as with any active cable, i.e. one direction, source to sink only. Installing backwards will not damage anything.

A new cable will be required that supports HDMI Power, and if the HDMI Power Cable is attached to a source that does not support HDMI Power, an included separate adapter (USB Micro-B or USB Type-C) needs to be used. Other adapters may be included.
The maximum power output of the HDMI Power port will be 300mA, which should be more than sufficient for long runs as long as the cable is designed to handle the increased output. Some cables certified for HDMI 2.1a will have operating ranges from about 56mA to 120mA (optimized for 50mA). With some cables actually optimized for a current of a bit less than 50mA (48mA for example), but that will be dependent on the voltage of the HDMI port.

Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
Ruipro 3/C - 10m, 15m
Cable Matters - 5m, 10m, 15m
Phoossno Gen 1- 5m, 7.5m, 10m, 15m, 20m
Phoossno Gen 2 Armored (crush proof) - 5m, 7.5m 10m, 12m, 15m, 20m
Zeskit Optical Fiber - 10m, 15m, 20m
WireWorld Stellar Fiber Optic 8k - up to 30m
WireWorld Starlight - 5m, 10m, 15m, 20m, 30m *(supposedly all CL2 rated)*
Fibbr Prime-C8K - 5m, 10m, 15m, 20m, 25m, 30m *(supposedly all CL3 rated)*

Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ISF Certified*:
Bullet Train - 5m to 100m (eARC 5m - 20m only)

Passive, Copper Only Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
Zeskit Maya - 0.4m, 1m, 1.5m, 1.9m, 2m, 3m, 3.9m *(CL3)*, 4.8m *(CL3)*, 7m *(CL3)*
Zeskit Lite - 1m, 1.5m
Zeskit X-Tech (Ultra Flexible) - 0.4m, 1m, 1.5m, 1.9m, 2.4m
Ruipro - 5m
Maxonar - 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m, 7m *(CL3)*
Austere - 1.5m, 2m
Kenable (UK) - 0.5m, 1m, 2m, 3m, 4m, 5m
WireWorld Radius 48 - 0.6m, 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m

Passive, Copper Only Cables *DPL Certified*:
Ethereal (MetraAV) - 1m, 2m, 3m, 4m, 5m, 6m, 8m

*Non-Certified:*
HDFury Hybrid Fiber - 20m *(CL3)*
HDFury Passive - 2m

*Distance Chart:*
0.4m = 1.5', 1m = 3.2', 2m = 6.5', 3m = 9.8', 3.9m = 12.8', 5m = 16.4'
7m = 22.9', 10m = 32.8', 12m = 39.4', 15m = 49.2', 20m = 65.6', 30m = 98.4'


updated 01/05/23


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## Archaea

Has anyone seen any latency testing on these cables? Since I'm buying a JVC NZ7 with < 20MS of latency, and I'm looking forward to the 120Hz framerate and low latency for gaming, I'd hate to buy one of these 40-50' active fiber HDMI 2.1 cables and learn it adds a tremendous amount of video latency. Has anyone seen any testing on this?


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## Otto Pylot

Archaea said:


> Has anyone seen any latency testing on these cables? Since I'm buying a JVC NZ7 with < 20MS of latency, and I'm looking forward to the 120Hz framerate and low latency for gaming, I'd hate to buy one of these 40-50' active fiber HDMI 2.1 cables and learn it adds a tremendous amount of video latency. Has anyone seen any testing on this?


As I mentioned, some of the cables are tested against tv's like the LG C9 and the 3080/3090 GPUs but you'd have to check with the mfr on what they tested and how. I do know that there are users here who don't seem to have any issues with the 3080/3090 GPUs and latency so hopefully they can shed some light on your question. That doesn't guarantee that if they don't have issues you won't. So that's why we strongly suggest you thoroughly test prior to final installation.


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## Archaea

As to warranties:

*Ruipro - 5 year warranty*








Amazon.com: RUIPRO 8K Ultra Certified Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 50 Feet 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 for Nvidia RTX 3080/3090 Xbox Series X PS5 Denon AV Receiver LG Samsung Sony TV : Electronics


Buy RUIPRO 8K Ultra Certified Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 50 Feet 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 for Nvidia RTX 3080/3090 Xbox Series X PS5 Denon AV Receiver LG Samsung Sony TV: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com














*Cable Matters - 1 year warranty*








Amazon.com: Cable Matters Certified 8K @60Hz Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 49.2 ft / 15m, Active Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - Supporting [email protected] [email protected] HDR - Designed for Xbox, Compatible with PS5, Apple TV, PC : Electronics


Amazon.com: Cable Matters Certified 8K @60Hz Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 49.2 ft / 15m, Active Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - Supporting [email protected] [email protected] HDR - Designed for Xbox, Compatible with PS5, Apple TV, PC : Electronics



www.amazon.com













*Phoossno - 5 year warranty*








Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments


Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments



www.amazon.com




*











Zeskit Optical Fiber - 2 year warranty*








Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics


Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics



www.amazon.com




*







*


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## Archaea

EDIT - 10-28-
A few posts down it was pointed out by @rcohen that Phoossno has a gen2 cable that fixes the below issues with Nvidia 30X0 and LG OLED.

---------------
Another thing to note. I was about to pull the trigger on the Phoossno because I wanted a five year warranty and the price was better than the Ruipro, but look at the highlighted text here:
Says it does not support C9, B9 CXZ when connected via 3080 and 3090.









Where as RuiPro specifically mentions it DOES support C9, B9, CX and 3080/3090.









So I bought the Ruipro certified cable. I don't want HDMI issues and dropouts. That's a pain in the rear. I also noted where the Ruipro says it's capable of 60Gbps transmission. Well I only need 40Gbps for my equipment - so that's 20Gbps headroom which should give me leeway and less chance for issues.


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## Otto Pylot

Archaea said:


> Another thing to note. I was about to pull the trigger on the Phoossno because I wanted a five year warranty and the price was better than the Ruipro, but look at the highlighted text here:
> Says it does not support C9, B9 CXZ when connected via 3080 and 3090.
> View attachment 3209128
> 
> 
> Where as RuiPro specifically mentions it DOES support C9, B9, CX and 3080/3090.
> View attachment 3209129
> 
> 
> So I bought the Ruipro certified cable. I don't want HDMI issues and dropouts. That's a pain in the rear. I also noted where the Ruipro says it's capable of 60Gbps transmission. Well I only need 40Gbps for my equipment - so that's 20Gbps headroom which should give me leeway and less chance for issues.


50' is certainly a challenge for any cable mfr. Ruipro has been very good at working with customer issues and replacing cables when needed. Phoossno and Cable Matters also have very good customer support from the posts and discussions I've seen. Not supported just means that they haven't tested the cable specifically with that device. Unfortunately, cable selection is still somewhat of a gamble and any cable mfr can have issues, and they all have from time to time. Testing thoroughly prior to final installation, which is a point we continue to drive home, is essential, especially if you are going to be pushing the HDMI 2.1 options sets. And, at 50', you need to ensure that you will have easy access to your cabling should you ever need to replace/upgrade your cabling in the future, and chances are you will as video standards become more demanding (think HDMI 3.0 😱).


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## Blitzkrieg_CJH

Sorry to ask a dumb question, but it sounds like Amazon + Monoprice are just selling rebranded versions. So this should be a rebranded version of a certified cable then? 






Monoprice 8K Certified Braided Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - HDMI 2.1, [email protected], 48Gbps, CL2 In-Wall Rated, 30AWG, 6ft, Black - Monoprice.com


The Monoprice™ 8K Certified Braided Ultra High Speed HDMI® Cable is the next generation of HDMI cable. Certified by an HDMI authorized testing center, these cables support up to [email protected]/[email protected]



www.monoprice.com


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## Otto Pylot

Blitzkrieg_CJH said:


> Sorry to ask a dumb question, but it sounds like Amazon + Monoprice are just selling rebranded versions. So this should be a rebranded version of a certified cable then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 8K Certified Braided Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - HDMI 2.1, [email protected], 48Gbps, CL2 In-Wall Rated, 30AWG, 6ft, Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> The Monoprice™ 8K Certified Braided Ultra High Speed HDMI® Cable is the next generation of HDMI cable. Certified by an HDMI authorized testing center, these cables support up to [email protected]/[email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com


Monoprice and Amazon are resellers, so yeah, they could be selling the same cable. That's the idea of the QR label. I recommend that anyone who purchases a QR-labled cable actually scan the label to make sure it's real. When the labeling program first began, it was almost impossible to get a counterfeit cable. Since then, I have seen a few cables where the label was legit but it didn't match the cable ordered. Could've been a a labeling mistake but I've scanned a lot of labels and virtually all of them matched the product. But it's always best just to check anyway.


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## rcohen

Archaea said:


> Another thing to note. I was about to pull the trigger on the Phoossno because I wanted a five year warranty and the price was better than the Ruipro, but look at the highlighted text here:
> Says it does not support C9, B9 CXZ when connected via 3080 and 3090.
> View attachment 3209128
> 
> 
> Where as RuiPro specifically mentions it DOES support C9, B9, CX and 3080/3090.
> View attachment 3209129
> 
> 
> So I bought the Ruipro certified cable. I don't want HDMI issues and dropouts. That's a pain in the rear. I also noted where the Ruipro says it's capable of 60Gbps transmission. Well I only need 40Gbps for my equipment - so that's 20Gbps headroom which should give me leeway and less chance for issues.


It looks like Phoossno has now updated their cables to "gen 2" now listing the remaining 3080/3090 compatibility.


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## Archaea

rcohen said:


> It looks like Phoossno has now updated their cables to "gen 2" now listing the remaining 3080/3090 compatibility.


I'm not seeing that. Do you have a link?

EDIT:
Ooof - see it. Price jumped $80 to $200 for G2.
Amazon.com: HDMI ATC Certified Armored 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Electronics

vs the gen 1
Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Electronics

Ruipro g3 is cheaper than Phoossno g2 at this point. Both should work with everything.


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## rcohen

Archaea said:


> I'm not seeing that. Do you have a link?


I haven't made a purchase, yet. I found this thread just in time. 

Amazon - Phoossno Gen 2


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## rcohen

Archaea said:


> I'm not seeing that. Do you have a link?
> 
> EDIT:
> Ooof - see it. Price jumped $80 to $200 for G2.
> Amazon.com: HDMI ATC Certified Armored 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Electronics
> 
> vs the gen 1
> Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Electronics
> 
> Ruipro g3 is cheaper than Phoossno g2 at this point. Both should work with everything.


My link is cheaper. Not sure if there's a difference or not.


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## Archaea

For what it's worth, my Ruipro gen 3 certified 50' cable has been perfect in synching from my Denon x6700h in 8K enhanced to my new JVC NZ7 with Xbox Series X at 4K, 120Hz HDR, and all other sources I've tried. (I have not tried from PC, I need another 20’ long HDMI cable for that). I paid $145 shipped for the Ruipro. Pricey - but nice to have something that just works reliably.

Prices seem to jump all over the place on these HDMI cables. I paid $145 for the Ruipro, now it's $25 higher two weeks later.


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## rcohen

Archaea said:


> For what it's worth, my Ruipro certified 50' cable has been perfect in synching from my Denon x6700h in 8K enhanced to my new JVC NZ7 with Xbox Series X at 4K, 120Hz HDR, and all other sources I've tried. (I have not tried from PC). I paid $145 shipped for it. Pricey - but nice to have something that just works reliably.


Good to know. Playing with the "business account" coupon at the minute. I'll have to look closer.

I wouldn't be surprised if they have the same guts, anyway.

Reading the reviews, it looks like Ruipro just went through the same update.


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## rcohen

When ordering the Gen2 Phoossmo 33' cable with a new "business" account, Amazon gave a $50 discount for the first order (ABGET50). So, $129-$50=$79.


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## Otto Pylot

Archaea said:


> For what it's worth, my Ruipro gen 3 certified 50' cable has been perfect in synching from my Denon x6700h in 8K enhanced to my new JVC NZ7 with Xbox Series X at 4K, 120Hz HDR, and all other sources I've tried. (I have not tried from PC, I need another 20’ long HDMI cable for that). I paid $145 shipped for the Ruipro. Pricey - but nice to have something that just works reliably.
> 
> Prices seem to jump all over the place on these HDMI cables. I paid $145 for the Ruipro, now it's $25 higher two weeks later.


Thanks for posting back about the new, Ruipro Gen3/C cable. Glad to hear it works for you.


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## Otto Pylot

rcohen said:


> I wouldn't be surprised if they have the same guts, anyway.
> 
> Reading the reviews, it looks like Ruipro just went through the same update.


FYI, Ruipro, Phoossno, and Cable Matters, just to name a few, all use the same main chipset mfr but then use their own board and component designs for proprietary reasons. Ruipro just took longer in acquiring their ATC certification than they had planned on.


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## rcohen

Is there a difference between a gen 2 and gen 3 cable? What is gen 3/c? Or are these generations just within the brand?


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## Otto Pylot

rcohen said:


> Is there a difference between a gen 2 and gen 3 cable? What is gen 3/c? Or are these generations just within the brand?


Ruipro were one of the first to start releasing hybrid fiber cables for long runs. The first iterations, 8k, while tested in-house for compliance with the HDMI 2.1 options sets, were not ATC certified so there were some compatibility issues. Mostly with the newer HDMI 2.1 devices as they had not been released yet so Ruipro had no way of testing their cables against the new devices. As the chipsets became more refined in correcting issues, and overcoming some of the GPU issues (heating) they kept the product codes the same but released updated versions, 8k Gen-2 and then 8k Gen-3. The 8k Gen-3 cables had little green tags on the cable body and box. The 8k Gen 3/C cables are the ATC certified cables and will come with the QR label on the outside packaging.


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## rcohen

Do you think the Phoossno one is the same, or should I cancel and switch?


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## Otto Pylot

rcohen said:


> Do you think the Phoossno one is the same, or should I cancel and switch?


The same as what? The cables use proprietary technology so even if the base chipset is the same, the other components are not. 

I'd stick with the Phoossno being as you've already ordered it and see how it works. Just pay attention to the return policy. That being said, no matter what cable you go with, you need to lay it out on the floor and thoroughly test it to make sure it meets your needs and expectations before final installation. And as far as the installation goes, you really need to plan for easy access to your cabling. If in-wall, that means the use of an appropriate conduit. Easy access makes it safe and easier to install and replace/upgrade your cabling when the time comes. Single cable, source to sink with nothing in-between is the most reliable connection.


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## rcohen

Otto Pylot said:


> The same as what? The cables use proprietary technology so even if the base chipset is the same, the other components are not.
> 
> I'd stick with the Phoossno being as you've already ordered it and see how it works. Just pay attention to the return policy. That being said, no matter what cable you go with, you need to lay it out on the floor and thoroughly test it to make sure it meets your needs and expectations before final installation. And as far as the installation goes, you really need to plan for easy access to your cabling. If in-wall, that means the use of an appropriate conduit. Easy access makes it safe and easier to install and replace/upgrade your cabling when the time comes. Single cable, source to sink with nothing in-between is the most reliable connection.


Thanks! You sure know a lot about cables!


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## Otto Pylot

rcohen said:


> Thanks! You sure know a lot about cables!


I have no life ☹.


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## Otto Pylot

NOTE: I have added the 20m Phoossno ATC certified cable to the list and a brief mention of HDMI 2.1a.


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## sddp

Archaea said:


> As to warranties:
> 
> *Ruipro - 5 year warranty*
> http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-Certified-Dynamic-Suitable-Samsung/dp/B09GFXF6QZ/[/URL]
> View attachment 3209120
> 
> 
> BNM7K/[/URL]
> *
> View attachment 3209125
> *


This was an issue for me as well, but I inquired with Ruipro about the 5 year warranty and they replied it's Lifetime. Since they are active can go bad, maybe in a year, 5 years or 9 years down the line.


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## Otto Pylot

sddp said:


> This was an issue for me as well, but I inquired with Ruipro about the 5 year warranty and they replied it's Lifetime. Since they are active can go bad, maybe in a year, 5 years or 9 years down the line.


That's why when you purchase a cable you really need to look at the warranties and if in doubt, contact the mfr. Ruipro has been very good at replacing cables, as has Zeskit, Phoossno, and Cable Matters.


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## Tanquen

Archaea said:


> As to warranties:
> 
> *Ruipro - 5 year warranty*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: RUIPRO 8K Ultra Certified Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 50 Feet 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 for Nvidia RTX 3080/3090 Xbox Series X PS5 Denon AV Receiver LG Samsung Sony TV : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy RUIPRO 8K Ultra Certified Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 50 Feet 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 for Nvidia RTX 3080/3090 Xbox Series X PS5 Denon AV Receiver LG Samsung Sony TV: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3209120
> 
> 
> 
> *Cable Matters - 1 year warranty*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Cable Matters Certified 8K @60Hz Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 49.2 ft / 15m, Active Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - Supporting [email protected] [email protected] HDR - Designed for Xbox, Compatible with PS5, Apple TV, PC : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Cable Matters Certified 8K @60Hz Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 49.2 ft / 15m, Active Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable - Supporting [email protected] [email protected] HDR - Designed for Xbox, Compatible with PS5, Apple TV, PC : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3209119
> 
> 
> *Phoossno - 5 year warranty*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> View attachment 3209122
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zeskit Optical Fiber - 2 year warranty*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> View attachment 3209125
> *


I'd like more warranty, 5 years should be the minimum on anything with chips and such. Cable Matters has lifetime on some stuff but only a year on the HDMI 2.1 active fiber, maybe they think they will fail after the first few years. _FYI - There is a card in the box to get an extra year of warranty with registration._ Their HDMI 2.1 active fiber is the first one I had that actually worked at 48Gbps.


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## Ratman

Any active cable could fail for various reasons. That's why you should be aware of the warranty(s).

EDIT:
Personally, I'd worry more about the warranties and compatibilities for the HDMI source, destination and intermediate devices for 5 years.


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## Tanquen

Archaea said:


> Has anyone seen any latency testing on these cables? Since I'm buying a JVC NZ7 with < 20MS of latency, and I'm looking forward to the 120Hz framerate and low latency for gaming, I'd hate to buy one of these 40-50' active fiber HDMI 2.1 cables and learn it adds a tremendous amount of video latency. Has anyone seen any testing on this?


I have been PC gaming for decades and I have a much higher threshold for latency than the intermittent skipping and horizontal tearing and so on. I have a LG 77 C9 and a PC with the RTX3080 GPU. My setup is using the Cable Matters HDMI 2.1 cable and I can see no lag.
Cable Matters Certified HDMI 2.1

I notice 120Hz more on the on the desktop moving windows around more than in games. I swear the mouse polling is slower or messed up when running a 60Hz desktop. Most fiber transceivers are designed to be really fast and add as little lag as possible. The length will not matter only the transceiver conversion speed. Putting the TV in Game mode should make much more of a difference.

There is a blurb here for what it is worth.
Fiber Optic HDMI Cable Lag Tested


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## Tanquen

Ratman said:


> Any active cable could fail for various reasons. That's why you should be aware of the warranty(s).


No one said people should not be aware of the warranty.


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## Otto Pylot

Tanquen said:


> No one said people should not be aware of the warranty.


Keep it civil. I think what he meant was that all cable mfrs have warranties on their products, but it pays to be aware (carefully read) of what that warranty actually covers and the duration. A lot of people don't, and are dismayed when they discover that the failed cable isn't covered like they "assumed" it would be.


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## Tanquen

Otto Pylot said:


> Keep it civil. I think what he meant was that all cable mfrs have warranties on their products, but it pays to be aware (carefully read) of what that warranty actually covers and the duration. A lot of people don't, and are dismayed when they discover that the failed cable isn't covered like they "assumed" it would be.


No one is being uncivil.
I posted more info about a warranty.
He then posts "Any active cable could fail for various reasons. That's why you should be aware of the warranty(s). "
No one said people should not be aware of the warranty. Yes, that post and the pervious post were on the differences of them and people looking into them, nothing about not looking into the warranty or that it's good to be unaware.


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## Ratman

Thanks... All has been clarified.
The point is:
Read and understand the warranty whether active, passive or hybrid cable.


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## Otto Pylot

Ratman said:


> Thanks... All has been clarified.
> The point is:
> Read and understand the warranty whether active, passive or hybrid cable.


'nuff said.


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## Tanquen

Ratman said:


> Thanks... All has been clarified.
> The point is:
> Read and understand the warranty whether active, passive or hybrid cable.


Yes, on anything you buy that is a good idea. That is what we were doing.


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## Tanquen

Otto Pylot said:


> 'nuff said.


Apparently not...


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## Ratman

☕ 
- 🥃


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## Otto Pylot

Ratman said:


> ☕
> - 🥃


😁


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## Tanquen

rcohen said:


> Is there a difference between a gen 2 and gen 3 cable? What is gen 3/c? Or are these generations just within the brand?


They are generations just within the brand. Ruipro, like a handful of manufacturers, released 8K, 10K whatever they wanted to call them (the HDMI group calls them “Ultra High Speed HDMI” so no one can follow what is going on, until they change the connector or pin out just label them by the max bandwidth and if they have the Ethernet/ARC wires) active HDMI 2.1 labeled cables early on and like a number of others, had some that did not work or some that worked or worked sporadically or some worked for a bit and then died. If they're tested for 48Gbps and could bring that signal in and back out at the other end cleanly and consistently on each channel in each HDMI cable they make, that should be the only test you need. Not aware of any testing or certification(?) for low voltage data cables like HDMI\USB\Firewire\SATA\PCI\IDE\Cat\Serial\Etc and a certain device. The XBox/PS5/GPUs did not overheat the cables and the XBox/PS5/GPUs did not have out of spec features or faults that needed to be corrected in the cable, some of the cables with older HDMI 2.0 designs didn’t pass full bandwidth 48Gbps. Many new HDMI 2.1 cables, active and not, had no issue and worked as spec'd with the XBox/PS5/GPUs or any other HDMI 2.1 device. With the PC RTX 30XX cards and the new XBox and PS5 people then had HDMI 2.1 devices that could push and test HDMI at 40-48Gbps and many HDMI 2.1 labeled cables could not do it. Not sure what was changed in Ruipro Gen-2 and 3 but wasn’t to fix out of spec HDMI devices. The Gen 3/C cable with ATC certification is rumored to be the Ruipro HDMI 2.1 cable with the new lower power, faster and working transceiver chip. It was rumored that Ruipro would need new hardware for a consistently working HDMI 2.1 cable but some said otherwise at the time, was often said there was no issue. It’s rumored to be the same chip that Cable Matters had been using for some time and I have two of those and they work as labeled thus far, don't overheat and don't need external power. Unfortunately it seems the other problematic Ruipro versions that may need external power and may not work at full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth are still out there for purchase. I would not recommend a Ruipro cable but if you have your heart set on one, get the one with the new hardware and make sure the vendor has easy returns.


----------



## Ratman

Easy reading. 
Tough job dissing Ruipro at every turn. 

Hopefully a a cable that works with an individual's hardware configuration is what's important when it comes to CableMatters. 

(and.... read the warranty(s) )


----------



## Otto Pylot

@Tanquen 
Just when we thought you wanted to play nice and post useful information you start dredging up the same old "let's trash Ruipro" mantra. Can you point to a valid source for your comment on Ruipro needing new hardware (transceivers or whatever)? And your comment about Ruipro needing an external power source to work correctly is just plain false. Ruipro, and other mfrs, included power inverters IN CASE they were needed with some projectors because of current outputs that would fluctuate too much. And it's not a rumor that Cable Matters, Phoossno and Ruipro use the same basic chip mfr in Europe.

You really need to give up on trashing Ruipro every time someone comments about them. They are just one of many hybrid fiber cable mfrs who have good releases and bad release of cables. Even CableMatters had some problematic cables. All mfrs do. You could have just stopped at _"They are generations just within the brand"_ which would have answered the question without trashing the mfr. But you can't help yourself with your continuing negative and obsessive posts about Ruipro.


----------



## Ratman

One person with a negative experience, with his/her hardware configuration/requirements does not mean everyone will have the same problem/experience.

Cable Matters worked better for Tanquen in his/her setup and that's great. Ruipro and other cables worked for others with their setups. So... just for those that may be reading and looking for suggestions with finding a HDMI cable solution, Ruipro is not 💩 and may be a viable consideration as well as other vendors.


----------



## Blitzkrieg_CJH

Otto Pylot said:


> Monoprice and Amazon are resellers, so yeah, they could be selling the same cable. That's the idea of the QR label. I recommend that anyone who purchases a QR-labled cable actually scan the label to make sure it's real. When the labeling program first began, it was almost impossible to get a counterfeit cable. Since then, I have seen a few cables where the label was legit but it didn't match the cable ordered. Could've been a a labeling mistake but I've scanned a lot of labels and virtually all of them matched the product. But it's always best just to check anyway.


Just wanted to follow up. I received the Monoprice cable and as far as I can tell it works fine. The QR code seemed to match/correlate to the cable I ordered. Thanks again!


----------



## Otto Pylot

Excellent. Thanks for reporting back.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Added Kenable cables to the list.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Otto Pylot said:


> Added Kenable cables to the list.


Added 2 WireWorld cables to list.


----------



## caseybrown89

Thanks for the helpful thread. I'm taking a bit of a chance on a Longon cable (LONGON 8K Active Optical Fiber Cable HDMI DispalyPort USB Type-C Cable), who isn't listed on this thread as of writing. They're the only cable I've found that has a certified ultra CL3 rated cable that is reasonably priced (32.12US $ 37% OFF|LONGON 8K HDMI 2.1 Certified Optical Fiber Cable eARC HDR 4K 120Hz Cable for PS5 SONY Samsung TV Amplifier RTX3080 10M 20M 30M|HDMI Cables| - AliExpress - $75.39 before tax). I'll report back on how well the cable works for me.


----------



## gbynum

@caseybrown89 , do report your results. Include your system components and connections if you are willing; that helps in the future.


----------



## Otto Pylot

caseybrown89 said:


> Thanks for the helpful thread. I'm taking a bit of a chance on a Longon cable (LONGON 8K Active Optical Fiber Cable HDMI DispalyPort USB Type-C Cable), who isn't listed on this thread as of writing. They're the only cable I've found that has a certified ultra CL3 rated cable that is reasonably priced (32.12US $ 37% OFF|LONGON 8K HDMI 2.1 Certified Optical Fiber Cable eARC HDR 4K 120Hz Cable for PS5 SONY Samsung TV Amplifier RTX3080 10M 20M 30M|HDMI Cables| - AliExpress - $75.39 before tax). I'll report back on how well the cable works for me.


I want to keep my list as current as possible but it's getting to the point that there are lots of "certified" UHS HDMI cables now so it's hard to pick and choose. I like to keep it to major brands that most folks have heard about or have experience with. Besides, cable certification is becoming a bit murky now. With HDMI.org/HDMI LA closing the door on HDMI 2.0, and basically allowing cables that have been tested for the HDMI 2.0 option sets, that have been show to work with the HDMI 2.1 options sets, to be certified as UHS HDMI if they pass the stricter EMI performance specs only.

CL3 is just a fire rating, it has nothing to do with cable performance. Keep in mind that CL2/CL3 rated cables may be a bit stiffer due to the cable jacket requirements. That "stiffness" may affect bend radius so you need to keep that in mind if you have a long run with bends. A conduit, if in-wall, will alleviate that considerably.

The Longon cables look fine, and their product description certainly hits all of the buzz words so just pay close attention to their return policy and make sure you lay the cable out of the floor and thoroughly test it prior to final installation.

Make sure you scan the QR label as there are counterfeited QR labeled cables starting to appear.


----------



## Andrewm1

Got the ruiprok 8k fibre optic 10m (30 foot) and can only test with 4k60 4:4:4 12 bit but it works great for that. Monoprice 1m 8k certified cable also worked fine. 

Htpc gtx 1060 to onkyo 1100 to rs400 JVC


----------



## Otto Pylot

Andrewm1 said:


> Got the ruiprok 8k fibre optic 10m (30 foot) and can only test with 4k60 4:4:4 12 bit but it works great for that. Monoprice 1m 8k certified cable also worked fine.
> 
> Htpc gtx 1060 to onkyo 1100 to rs400 JVC


Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Rebound

Archaea said:


> Has anyone seen any latency testing on these cables? Since I'm buying a JVC NZ7 with < 20MS of latency, and I'm looking forward to the 120Hz framerate and low latency for gaming, I'd hate to buy one of these 40-50' active fiber HDMI 2.1 cables and learn it adds a tremendous amount of video latency. Has anyone seen any testing on this?


These cables add zero latency. 
In worst-case conditions, latency is three horizontal lines, which is in the microsecond range. At 120Hz, a single frame is 8 milliseconds. Now divide 8ms by 2,160 horizontal lines, and we’re way, way down to about 4 one-millionths of a second. Buffer three lines and your latency is 12 one-millionths of a second, worst case. Maybe not zero, but it’s way below the ability of human perception to tell, even if the operation is reversed and latency doubled at the other end.


----------



## Ratman

Dec 11, 2021


----------



## SummerTurnip

Can someone provide me with a definitive answer which cable works 100 % with an RTX 3000 card and an LG OLED TV (2021 gen) at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit, HDR, G-Sync? I struggle with spontaneous audio or video drop-outs. At first I thought it was the graphics card's fault because I had no problems with my previous card. But the replacement card, also by a different manufacturer, has the same problem. I bought my first cable specifically for HDMI 2.1 and had severe problems. While sometimes I had hours without problems there were periods where drop-outs would happen in less than minute intervals or even permanently. Then I found this thread and looked through the listed cables. Zeskit doesn't seem to be available (here) and RUIPRO is much too expensive. I'm only looking for a one meter cable and even that costs around 90 €. So I tried a cable from Maxonar and the situation improved but drop-outs still happen. Only single drop-outs occasionally and no permanent ones so far, but it still bothers me as this should not happen at all. So, does anyone know an (affordable) cable that is supposed to work 100 % with my components?


----------



## Tanquen

SummerTurnip said:


> Can someone provide me with a definitive answer which cable works 100 % with an RTX 3000 card and an LG OLED TV (2021 gen) at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit, HDR, G-Sync? I struggle with spontaneous audio or video drop-outs. At first I thought it was the graphics card's fault because I had no problems with my previous card. But the replacement card, also by a different manufacturer, has the same problem. I bought my first cable specifically for HDMI 2.1 and had severe problems. While sometimes I had hours without problems there were periods where drop-outs would happen in less than minute intervals or even permanently. Then I found this thread and looked through the listed cables. Zeskit doesn't seem to be available (here) and RUIPRO is much too expensive. I'm only looking for a one meter cable and even that costs around 90 €. So I tried a cable from Maxonar and the situation improved but drop-outs still happen. Only single drop-outs occasionally and no permanent ones so far, but it still bothers me as this should not happen at all. So, does anyone know an (affordable) cable that is supposed to work 100 % with my components?


You really should not be having any issues with a one meter HDMI 2.1 cable. Even most older HDMI 2.0 cables will work at that length with 48Gbps speeds. What cables do you have now that you still have dropouts with? Just one 1 meter cable? Were you running the other card maxed out at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit and 4:4:4 chroma and the like?

I have these and the work fine with my RTX3080 at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit and 4:4:4 chroma. The HDR and G-Sync is not really an issue for a cable its the total bandwidth when you max out the res, refresh and color depth.

Tried other ports on the TV? What card and TV do you have? I have the RTX3080 and the LG C9. Have you set the HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color setting on the TV. I had dropouts with that set or not set on the TV and AVR. Are you using a PC res in the Nvidia driver? Is the HDMI port on the TV set to PC mode? Have you checked for firmware updates on the TV. My setup started having the red flashing issue after an update and I tried other cards until the next update came out and fixed the issue.

I've used these two regular not active HDMI cables but again at one meter it should be no problem.









Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics


Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics



www.amazon.com












Amazon.com: Monster Ultra High-Speed 8K Cobalt HDMI 2.1 Cable at 48 Gbps 6 ft : Electronics


Buy Monster Ultra High-Speed 8K Cobalt HDMI 2.1 Cable at 48 Gbps 6 ft: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## Tanquen

Wow, like none of this is ture.








Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1


@Tanquen Just when we thought you wanted to play nice and post useful information you start dredging up the same old "let's trash Ruipro" mantra. Can you point to a valid source for your comment on Ruipro needing new hardware (transceivers or whatever)? And your comment about Ruipro needing an...




www.avsforum.com












Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1


@Tanquen Just when we thought you wanted to play nice and post useful information you start dredging up the same old "let's trash Ruipro" mantra. Can you point to a valid source for your comment on Ruipro needing new hardware (transceivers or whatever)? And your comment about Ruipro needing an...




www.avsforum.com












Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1


Do you think the Phoossno one is the same, or should I cancel and switch? The same as what? The cables use proprietary technology so even if the base chipset is the same, the other components are not. I'd stick with the Phoossno being as you've already ordered it and see how it works. Just...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Otto Pylot

SummerTurnip said:


> Can someone provide me with a definitive answer which cable works 100 % with an RTX 3000 card and an LG OLED TV (2021 gen) at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit, HDR, G-Sync? I struggle with spontaneous audio or video drop-outs. At first I thought it was the graphics card's fault because I had no problems with my previous card. But the replacement card, also by a different manufacturer, has the same problem. I bought my first cable specifically for HDMI 2.1 and had severe problems. While sometimes I had hours without problems there were periods where drop-outs would happen in less than minute intervals or even permanently. Then I found this thread and looked through the listed cables. Zeskit doesn't seem to be available (here) and RUIPRO is much too expensive. I'm only looking for a one meter cable and even that costs around 90 €. So I tried a cable from Maxonar and the situation improved but drop-outs still happen. Only single drop-outs occasionally and no permanent ones so far, but it still bothers me as this should not happen at all. So, does anyone know an (affordable) cable that is supposed to work 100 % with my components?


No. There are no guarantees. The best you can do is take recommendations from users here and see what works for your setup. At 1m (3') you shouldn't have any issues with just about any cable. Try a passive, certified cable (if that's important to you) but at 1m, the cable may be a bit still so be mindful of bend radius because you don't want to kink the cable or put any undue pressure on the HDMI port. With a passive cable, it's just copper only, so there are no additional electronics to deal with lie there are there are with active cables. Besides, at 1m, an active cable, be it copper only or hybrid fiber is an expensive overkill.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Tanquen said:


> What cables do you have now that you still have dropouts with? Just one 1 meter cable?


I have an older cable not officially capable of [email protected] or [email protected] I had (but returned) a "Flex Evolution" cable from Oehlbach and currently I'm using a Maxonar cable, certified for [email protected]/[email protected], because that brand is listed here. It works better than the Oehlbach cable bit still has occasional drop-outs. The old cable also has drop-outs.

Drop-outs happen independent of load, idle with only the desktop, while browsing, in games or when watching videos, completely random. I actually had four RTX 3060 cards and with all of them the drop-outs occurred. I kept the last card because they can't possibly be all defective.



Tanquen said:


> What card and TV do you have?


RTX 3060 and LG OLED B1 65".



Tanquen said:


> Tried other ports on the TV?


Yes, HDMI 3 compared to HDMI 4. These are the only HDMI 2.1 ports. Problems didn't happen when using one of the HDMI 2.0 ports but I can only use 60 Hz with them, so them working is pointless.



Tanquen said:


> Have you set the HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color setting on the TV.


Yes, it's on like suggested everywhere.



Tanquen said:


> Are you using a PC res in the Nvidia driver?


Yes, because 120 Hz is not available at 4K otherwise. 



Tanquen said:


> Is the HDMI port on the TV set to PC mode?


Yes.



Tanquen said:


> Have you checked for firmware updates on the TV.


Yes, it's always up-to-date.

I literally tried everything in regard to BIOS, Windows or driver settings, including updates of course.


----------



## Tanquen

SummerTurnip said:


> I have an older cable not officially capable of [email protected] or [email protected] I had (but returned) a "Flex Evolution" cable from Oehlbach and currently I'm using a Maxonar cable, certified for [email protected]/[email protected], because that brand is listed here. It works better than the Oehlbach cable bit still has occasional drop-outs. The old cable also has drop-outs.
> 
> Drop-outs happen independent of load, idle with only the desktop, while browsing, in games or when watching videos, completely random. I actually had four RTX 3060 cards and with all of them the drop-outs occurred. I kept the last card because they can't possibly be all defective.
> 
> 
> RTX 3060 and LG OLED B1 65".
> 
> 
> Yes, HDMI 3 compared to HDMI 4. These are the only HDMI 2.1 ports. Problems didn't happen when using one of the HDMI 2.0 ports but I can only use 60 Hz with them, so them working is pointless.
> 
> 
> Yes, it's on like suggested everywhere.
> 
> 
> Yes, because 120 Hz is not available at 4K otherwise.
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> Yes, it's always up-to-date.
> 
> I literally tried everything in regard to BIOS, Windows or driver settings, including updates of course.


Man that is a tuff one and just checking the the stuff I know about with you.

That is what is hard about the HDMI 2.1 full 40-48GBps bandwidth issues. You can drop from 120hz to 60hz and everything is fine but then dropouts can also be really random. So is it the setting you just changed or is it the dropout just going to happen latter? Fun stuff. I had a cable that would dropout once every few weeks or more until I replaced it.

Was a new firmware version on the TV installed recently? May not be your issue but sounds a little like mine where the TV had updated when I was out of town for a month and when I got back I went through clean Windows installs, drivers, cables and cards thinking something had died.

Sounds like the cable but you have tried a few and it's direct from the RTX 3060 to the TV. The Maxonar cable is one meter? Were you running the other card maxed out at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit and 4:4:4 chroma also? Just want to make sure the old card didn't have the issue only because you weren't pussing 40GBps+. Maybe it's the TV. If you were running the same settings on the old card can you swap it back in? I know that is a drag, if it's an AMD card with different drivers or something.

The only things I can think of to try are, one or two other short HDMI 2.1 cables, toggling the Ultra HD Deep Color and PC mode settings on the TV. Another HDMI 2.1 display could be a good test if you have access through friends or family. 

I also did have connectivity issues once or twice early on that seemed to be fixed by powering everything down and disconnecting all power. It's hard to tell if just rebooting one more time would have fixed it but cutting power to the PC and TV and even moving the card to another slot may help but it sounds like you've swapped lots of cards and powered stuff completely off.

I also had issues when more than one display was connected. Fixed with reboots and the Monitor Profile Switcher app. 

Sorry, I feel your pain.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Tanquen said:


> The Maxonar cable is one meter?


Yes, like the one from Oehlbach.



Tanquen said:


> Were you running the other card maxed out at 4K, 120 Hz, 10-bit and 4:4:4 chroma also?


That wasn't possible because it only supported HDMI 2.0 (RTX 2060), so I could either use 4K at 60 Hz or 1080p at 120 Hz. Both caused no issues.



Tanquen said:


> The only things I can think of to try are, one or two other short HDMI 2.1 cables, toggling the Ultra HD Deep Color and PC mode settings on the TV.


I've ordered another cable from Kenable (because it is also listed here). Should arrive in a few days.



Tanquen said:


> Another HDMI 2.1 display could be a good test if you have access through friends or family.


Unfortunately not.



Tanquen said:


> It's hard to tell if just rebooting one more time would have fixed it but cutting power to the PC and TV and even moving the card to another slot may help but it sounds like you've swapped lots of cards and powered stuff completely off.


I don't have a second x16 slot. I could try a different PC but I honestly don't see what stuff like mainboard or PSU could have to do with the issue if it even happens when the PC is idle (minimal power draw).

I've already contacted LG customer support but they only ask questions like "could you make a video" or "could you try other sources". I was hoping it was a known issue and they would just recommend me a specific cable known to work.

It's a strange issue because everyone should have these issues if it were a compatibility issue between RTX 3000 and LG OLED since this is a popular combination these days. The graphics card can't be the culprit as I tried several. But can this really be a defect of the TV? It would be a rather strange one. Plus, the newer cable works better, though not perfect.

I'm grasping at straws here, but could it be caused by "unwanted" current flows? I had issues with a ground loop when connecting the headphone jack of the TV with the stereo. My solution was to use the optical out with a D/A converter. Maybe it wasn't a problem at a lower HDMI bandwidth because it might be less prone to interference.


----------



## Tanquen

SummerTurnip said:


> That wasn't possible because it only supported HDMI 2.0 (RTX 2060), so I could either use 4K at 60 Hz or 1080p at 120 Hz. Both caused no issues.


So it could be the TV. You are going from around 18GBps to 40GBps or more and you are asking more of the cable and the TV. As you have tried other cables and cards it could be the TV can't quite handle the 40GBps 4k 120Hz like it should.



SummerTurnip said:


> Unfortunately not.


Yes, I love it when suport hopes you have another $1000 video card or $4000 TV to help them test.



SummerTurnip said:


> I don't have a second x16 slot. I could try a different PC but I honestly don't see what stuff like mainboard or PSU could have to do with the issue if it even happens when the PC is idle (minimal power draw).


I know, all these years and it has never been the power supply or cleaning the drivers out but they are favorite troubleshooting questions. So.. is you power supply good for a RTX 3060? I'm sure it is but grasping at straws here too. If it was a PS or shielding issue the PC swap could help but I'm also guessing not.



SummerTurnip said:


> It's a strange issue because everyone should have these issues if it were a compatibility issue between RTX 3000 and LG OLED since this is a popular combination these days. The graphics card can't be the culprit as I tried several. But can this really be a defect of the TV? It would be a rather strange one. Plus, the newer cable works better, though not perfect.


Yeah, these kind of issues stink. All 4 RTX 3060 may have been bad, unlikely. But either the cable or card or TV could be just barely working and cause the random drops at 4k-120Hz. You've swapped all the easy stuff. It sounds like the cable as that is what happens a lot. All the pins and wires and connections are there just a little to weak or noisy and you get the random dropouts at higher bandwidth settings. But at one metter it should be no problem for any $15-$20 HDMI 2.1 cable.



SummerTurnip said:


> I'm grasping at straws here, but could it be caused by "unwanted" current flows? I had issues with a ground loop when connecting the headphone jack of the TV with the stereo. My solution was to use the optical out with a D/A converter. Maybe it wasn't a problem at a lower HDMI bandwidth because it might be less prone to interference.


Could try a UPS or power conditioner, different outlets in the house, get them on a different circuit. More straw grasping.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Tanquen said:


> So.. is you power supply good for a RTX 3060?


It's a 500 W Enermax. Also, it happens when the PC is idle and the card uses around 20 W. It's also roughly the same power category as the RTX 2060 (< 200 W TDP).

I guess I have to try the next cable. If that doesn't help maybe I will order an expensive optical cable from RUIPRO just for testing purposes. If that cable actually works I would consider keeping it. Maybe it would simply work because it's optical, just like the optical audio cable fixes the ground loop. If that also doesn't work I would contact LG again.


----------



## Otto Pylot

The intent of this post was to just keep a current list of HDMI cables as a quick reference. It was not meant as a troubleshooting thread. It will be beneficial to all if there are specific setup questions (tv's, gpu's, receivers, etc) to start a new thread or post to a thread with similar questions.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Otto Pylot said:


> The intent of this post was to just keep a current list of HDMI cables as a quick reference. It was not meant as a troubleshooting thread. It will be beneficial to all if there are specific setup questions (tv's, gpu's, receivers, etc) to start a new thread or post to a thread with similar questions.


Okay, noted. My initial hope was that someone would simply point me to the right cable. Like "oh yes, known issue, cables from this or that manufacturer are known to work".


----------



## Ratman

SummerTurnip said:


> Okay, noted. My initial hope was that someone would simply point me to the right cable. Like "oh yes, known issue, cables from this or that manufacturer are known to work".


The cable is not the only "part" that may be the issue.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Ratman said:


> The cable is not the only "part" that may be the issue.


I know, but that was my hope. If the TV were defective it would be a pain in the ass to let LG fix it, let alone convincing them it needs fixing. You can't just send it in due to its size. And then you start to ponder. Is the issue severe enough to go through all the hassle or should I just accept it? So, please let me believe it's a cable issue for a little while longer.


----------



## Tanquen

SummerTurnip said:


> It's a 500 W Enermax. Also, it happens when the PC is idle and the card uses around 20 W. It's also roughly the same power category as the RTX 2060 (< 200 W TDP).
> 
> I guess I have to try the next cable. If that doesn't help maybe I will order an expensive optical cable from RUIPRO just for testing purposes. If that cable actually works I would consider keeping it. Maybe it would simply work because it's optical, just like the optical audio cable fixes the ground loop. If that also doesn't work I would contact LG again.


This another log shot. You could try it or a Cable Matters or Monoprice active fiber cable just make sure you can return it as a one meter non active inexpensive cable should work. Let me know if you start another thread. Good luck.


----------



## Tanquen

SummerTurnip said:


> I know, but that was my hope. If the TV were defective it would be a pain in the ass to let LG fix it, let alone convincing them it needs fixing. You can't just send it in due to its size. And then you start to ponder. Is the issue severe enough to go through all the hassle or should I just accept it? So, please let me believe it's a cable issue for a little while longer.


Under warranty? My C9 77" died after like a month. Luckily, sort of, it would no longer show a picture so no try this and that setting but it was still a pain to have serviced. They basically sent a new TV. It was just the panel but had circuit boards. I think the only thing from the old one was the power supply and the bottom plastic housing.


----------



## Otto Pylot

SummerTurnip said:


> Okay, noted. My initial hope was that someone would simply point me to the right cable. Like "oh yes, known issue, cables from this or that manufacturer are known to work".


That's ok. I just didn't want the initial point of this thread to get lost. You can use the list that I made as a guide to what is available for certified cables for the HDMI 2.1 option sets if your goal is to use UHS cables. It is not meant to be a list for "only these cables will work". There are lots of reasons for connectivity/pq issues. Sometimes it's the cable, sometimes it's the connected devices, sometimes it's the installation. Basically trial and error. I wish it were as simple as having a single cable that works for everyone with every setup but it's not. HDMI 2.1, and HDMI in general, can basically a pain depending on what you want to do.


----------



## Mach725

I currently have a denon 6700h going to a Sony x900h connected by a 50ft Monster 8k UHD premium fiber cable. I am experiencing audio and video dropouts every so often and some green screen problems. I tested the cable with the below hdmi tester and only 14-16, 19 light up. I tested another of the exact same cable brand new but 15ft with the same results. Is this a crappy cable? What should I go with?


----------



## Tanquen

Do you get the audio and video dropout/issues with the shorter cable? The tester is a nice idea, but you need to see if you can find a cable that works short or otherwise and then worry about getting a 50-footer. I have a 15 ft monster cable, I don't think it's that exact one but I got it for HDMI 2.1 at full 48 GBPS and it works fine. I'd just would want to test with shorter cables that you know can work and make sure that the AV device and it's cable feeding the Denon is good and then make sure, the cable to the TV is good or are you just using ARC? After you rule out the devices having issues and then you can try a longer cable. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08GMC7C91?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


----------



## Mach725

Tanquen said:


> Do you get the audio and video dropout/issues with the shorter cable? The tester is a nice idea, but you need to see if you can find a cable that works short or otherwise and then worry about getting a 50-footer. I have a 15 ft monster cable, I don't think it's that exact one but I got it for HDMI 2.1 at full 48 GBPS and it works fine. I'd just would want to test with shorter cables that you know can work and make sure that the AV device and it's cable feeding the Denon is good and then make sure, the cable to the TV is good or are you just using ARC? After you rule out the devices having issues and then you can try a longer cable. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08GMC7C91?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


I mainly see audio and video dropouts when watching a firestick through the denon. I just played madden on a Ps5 through the denon and no v/a dropouts. Is there a reason for this? Also, is it weird that the installed 50ft cable and a brand new 15ft cable only show the 15-16 and 19 pins working? Is it because it’s a fiber cable and the hdmi tester does not work on fiber?


----------



## Tanquen

Mach725 said:


> I mainly see audio and video dropouts when watching a firestick through the denon. I just played madden on a Ps5 through the denon and no v/a dropouts. Is there a reason for this? Also, is it weird that the installed 50ft cable and a brand new 15ft cable only show the 15-16 and 19 pins working? Is it because it’s a fiber cable and the hdmi tester does not work on fiber?


If it's just the one device going into the denon I would focus on that. It can be a bandwidth issue. So if each device is using different resolution or refresh rate that could cause the dropouts. The fire stick should have a few resolutions and color depth options you could try messing. I kept having audio dropouts with fire Stick, the most recent version I got over Christmas. I ended up going with an Apple TV, It has its own issues but it got rid of the audio dropouts from the same streaming services I was using on the fire stick. The cables I was using had nothing to do with it. I'm not familiar with the HDMI tester but I would think it's a continuity tester and an active fiber cable with a transceiver, probably is not going to work with that. One end of the active cable is taking in the signal data and converting that to go over the fiber and then back again on the other end. I'm pretty sure the tester is not going to work with that. My Denon has a built-in HDMI cable tester, but it's testing the bandwidth and lets you know if it fails all together or if it can work at a lower bandwidth but then fails at a higher bandwidth, not just the continuity between each pin.


----------



## korkster911

Just wanted to mention that I got the 33 foot Cable Matters Fiber Optic HDMI cable. I can confirm that from my PS5 -> Pioneer VSX-LX505 Elite -> Sony X90J TV, it is pumping out 4k 120hz no problem. There hasn't been a single drop or HDMI issue in around 50 hours of viewing. I've been plagued by handshake issues, HDMICEC, sparklies and other artifacts for the past 10 years. This is the first time it's just "worked" as expected.


----------



## Otto Pylot

korkster911 said:


> Just wanted to mention that I got the 33 foot Cable Matters Fiber Optic HDMI cable. I can confirm that from my PS5 -> Pioneer VSX-LX505 Elite -> Sony X90J TV, it is pumping out 4k 120hz no problem. There hasn't been a single drop or HDMI issue in around 50 hours of viewing. I've been plagued by handshake issues, HDMICEC, sparklies and other artifacts for the past 10 years. This is the first time it's just "worked" as expected.


Excellent. Positive reports on cables is always appreciated.


----------



## Tanquen

Otto Pylot said:


> Excellent. Positive reports on cables is always appreciated.


Careful, you might want to avoid them as they haven't been around as long.


----------



## Tanquen

korkster911 said:


> Just wanted to mention that I got the 33 foot Cable Matters Fiber Optic HDMI cable. I can confirm that from my PS5 -> Pioneer VSX-LX505 Elite -> Sony X90J TV, it is pumping out 4k 120hz no problem. There hasn't been a single drop or HDMI issue in around 50 hours of viewing. I've been plagued by handshake issues, HDMICEC, sparklies and other artifacts for the past 10 years. This is the first time it's just "worked" as expected.


I'm glad it's working out for you. I also went through a number of cables that were labeled as being HDMI 2.1 but we're not. I always have a little bit of anxiety when somebody's used or using a cable I recommended. Not sure if you even got it on my recommendation but I still worry because any product or cable can have an, It don't work problem but that is not the only issue cables can have.


----------



## korkster911

Tanquen said:


> I'm glad it's working out for you. I always have a little bit of anxiety when somebody's used or using a cable I recommended. Not sure if you even got it on my recommendation but I still worry because any product or cable can have an, It don't work problem but that is not the only issue cables can have.


I also spoke to their tech support about the warranty and they have a registration for 2 years. Register the product, get two years of warranty. Tech support was helpful. I went through 4 copper cables before and they were supposed to handle 8k or 4k120 but they all dropped every now and then (2 seconds of black screen, usually while navigating menus or something.

This one has been perfect (knock on wood).


----------



## Tanquen

korkster911 said:


> I also spoke to their tech support about the warranty and they have a registration for 2 years. Register the product, get two years of warranty. Tech support was helpful. I went through 4 copper cables before and they were supposed to handle 8k or 4k120 but they all dropped every now and then (2 seconds of black screen, usually while navigating menus or something.
> 
> This one has been perfect (knock on wood).


Yeah, mine have been working for sometime now but I keep waiting for the other shoe to drop as it's my first active cable this long. I have some red mirror meyer something other cables and those are like little tanks. Never had any problems with them.

I do wish they all had at least a 5-year plus warranty. I did register mine as well to try to get the two year. We have way too much e-waste.

My Nest Yale lock, 1 of 5 is making a grinding noise and I contacted their support and it only has a 2-year warranty, 3 years if you get it installed by a professional but I'm not sure how me mounting it is caused the gears to fail. I thought the hardware was lifetime for the owner but they have a section in the electronics warranty that's only two years and includes the motor. On top of this, they have no service or parts available and no suggestions for preventative maintenance. They simply want you to purchase a new one with deadbolt hardware electronics and the remote receiver. I will definitely vote for any right to repair laws.


----------



## korkster911

What I am pleased about is that there doesn't seem to be much heat. After 3-4 hours between my AVR and the tv it's barely warm. Same thing on the back of the tv. So I'm pleased that it doesn't seem to be running hot.


----------



## Ratman

korkster911 said:


> What I am pleased about is that there doesn't seem to be much heat. After 3-4 hours between my AVR and the tv it's barely warm. Same thing on the back of the tv. So I'm pleased that it doesn't seem to be running hot.


Just a note:
Most have reported "heat" problems with PC connections. So... just some input for others that search this thread.


----------



## Ratman

Tanquen said:


> Careful, you might want to avoid them as they haven't been around as long.


Why avoid positive reviews? 
What hasn't been around as long? Positive reviews or something else?


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## Otto Pylot

Tanquen said:


> Careful, you might want to avoid them as they haven't been around as long.


Not quite sure what you mean but I’ll that as a friendly wink.


----------



## Tanquen

Ratman said:


> Just a note:
> Most have reported "heat" problems with PC connections. So... just some input for others that search this thread.


The heat problems were worth the Rupio cables. The PC or The warm GPU exhaust did not make the cable hot and fail.


----------



## Tanquen

Otto Pylot said:


> Not quite sure what you mean but I’ll that as a friendly wink.


No, that's what somebody had said about Cable Matters. You may not want to use them because they haven't been around very long. And something about another brand being just another should work cable. And then something about another certified brand being nothing to see here.


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## Tanquen

Ratman said:


> Why avoid positive reviews?
> What hasn't been around as long? Positive reviews or something else?


Nothing wrong with positive reviews. If you actually bought something and it actually worked for you, feel free to share.


----------



## Tanquen

korkster911 said:


> What I am pleased about is that there doesn't seem to be much heat. After 3-4 hours between my AVR and the tv it's barely warm. Same thing on the back of the tv. So I'm pleased that it doesn't seem to be running hot.


Yeah, it's a newer chip or transceiver or hardware, whatever you want to call it that runs more efficient and doesn't need an extra power adapter or anything and doesn't run as hot when trying to do 48 GBPS.

I wonder what the trace size is on the chip. If it's something that they can could even smaller in the next year or two and get the cable ends even smaller, kind of like those red Meijer mirror, whatever cables. The ends on those are really small but they are for shorter runs and they're just cleaning up or boosting the signal or something? It's not converting it to fiber and back.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Tanquen said:


> No, that's what somebody had said about Cable Matters. You may not want to use them because they haven't been around very long. And something about another brand being just another should work cable. And then something about another certified brand being nothing to see here.


Huh? What are you rambling about? I just said that a positive review on a cable is a good thing.


----------



## Tanquen

Otto Pylot said:


> Huh? What are you rambling about? I just said that a positive review on a cable is a good thing.


Huh? What? What could this all possibly be about?
Whoever said you shouldn't share your point of view or your reviews positive or otherwise?
That's supposed to be a big thing about the site. It's people sharing their actual purchases and experiences. These are remarks that you made about other cables. So it just seems weird for you to keep posting how great it is that someone posted a positive review. Nobody said you can't post a positive review and people often do.


----------



## Rebound

Mach725 said:


> I currently have a denon 6700h going to a Sony x900h connected by a 50ft Monster 8k UHD premium fiber cable. I am experiencing audio and video dropouts every so often and some green screen problems. I tested the cable with the below hdmi tester and only 14-16, 19 light up. I tested another of the exact same cable brand new but 15ft with the same results. Is this a crappy cable? What should I go with?
> View attachment 3248584
> 
> View attachment 3248583


Only pins 14, 16 and 19 are connected when the TV is in Standby or the HDMI input port is inactive. I don’t know if that tester is supposed to be attached to a cable which is attached to a TV. Maybe the tester is supposed to be attached at both ends, or you attach one end to the Source and the other end to the tester? Check the manual, perhaps.


----------



## Mach725

Rebound said:


> Only pins 14, 16 and 19 are connected when the TV is in Standby or the HDMI input port is inactive. I don’t know if that tester is supposed to be attached to a cable which is attached to a TV. Maybe the tester is supposed to be attached at both ends, or you attach one end to the Source and the other end to the tester? Check the manual, perhaps.


I connected one side of the tester to each end of the hdmi and in the correct end of each side of the hdmi since it has a display and source side.


----------



## SummerTurnip

Tanquen said:


> Let me know if you start another thread.











RTX 3000 / LG OLED audio/video drop-outs


Hello, I decided to start a new thread because I still haven't solved the issues I'm having and the other thread was not meant for trouble-shooting. This is copied from the other thread: * START * Can someone provide me with a definitive answer which cable works 100 % with an RTX 3000 card and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Otto Pylot

Added an update to the HDMI 2.1a spec courtesy of Rebound.


----------



## Mach725

Hey guys, I am going to replace my monster fiber cable which I believe is the problem. So I have a major question. Should I get a 18gbps or 48gbps cable?
I want to be somewhat futureproof(ish) due to the difficulty in running the cable. 

Setup- 
35ft hdmi cable run
Denon avrx6700h
85”Sony x900h
PS5


----------



## Otto Pylot

Mach725 said:


> Hey guys, I am going to replace my monster fiber cable which I believe is the problem. So I have a major question. Should I get a 18gbps or 48gbps cable?
> I want to be somewhat futureproof(ish) due to the difficulty in running the cable.
> 
> Setup-
> 35ft hdmi cable run
> Denon avrx6700h
> 85”Sony x900h
> PS5


Technically, the only way to "future proof" is to have easy access to your cabling. If in-wall, that usually means a 1.5"-2.0" flexible conduit (SmurfTube), with pull strings. Cables, especially active cables, be they copper only or hybrid fiber, can fail over time, or future video standards may dictate the need to upgrade your cables. Easy access basically makes your cabling future proof.

If you're a gamer then you might want to consider an UHS (Ultra High Speed) HDM cable (HDMI 2.1 option sets) so that when, and if, your source needs the full 48Gbps bandwidth, your cabling is already in place. Most source material now tops out at around 40Gbps so a UHS HDMI cable should have no difficulty with that. The cable doesn't need to be certified but that is at least some level of consumer confidence that the cable has been tested by a standardized set of protocols regardless of who the cable mfr is.

Whatever cable you choose to go with, HDMI 2.0 options sets (18Gbps) or the HDMI 2.1 options sets (48Gbps) lay the cable out on the floor and thoroughly test it prior to final installation to make sure that it meets your needs and expectations. The list that I posted at the beginning of this post is just a guide to give one an idea of what is available for certified UHS HDMI cables because that seems to be what folks are looking for. However, the mfrs listed also offer PHS (Premium High Speed) HDMI cables (18Gbps) and some non-certified cables as well. It's a place to start. Just keep in mind that no cable mfr can offer a 100% guarantee that the cable will work for all devices and setups so pay attention to the return policy.


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## Tanquen

If you want to spend the time and money on conduit and aren't renting and know, you'll never want to move anything around and know there's no guarantee that the conduit will make an easy run the next time around or when you want to add more cables or wires and so on and so forth. It might make it easier to run a cable the next time you need to.

If you want a cable likely to work. I'd go with Cable Matters or maybe even Monoprice.

Only you can decide if paying a little bit more is worth it to try to future-proof but I definitely would. There's no reason you can't look at what's available and the prices and make a decision if it makes sense to you that there are futures that you know about now that you may want to use. Future proofing has nothing to do with the difficulty of installation.

A few years from now when you're getting a new AVR or TV or whatever, why not have another HDMI 2.1 cable laying around versus another HDMI 2.0. There's not a huge price difference in most of them. The way inflation's going it could be three or four times the cost. Buying it now versus a few years from now.

Certification doesn't matter, you just want one that works as specified. Make sure you get it from some place that has easy returns and test it for as long as you can before doing a difficult run. Don't yank on it or bend it 180° and so on and so forth and you should be fine.

It's also important to test the cable with the highest bandwidth setup that you have, highest resolution and refresh rate and color depth and chroma settings. If you don't have anything that requires HDMI 2.1 40 or 48 GBPS you'll not be able to test that and just have to hope that it works when you need it later on and I'd go for the Cable Matters fiber active HDMI 2.1 cable.

You have a PS5 so you have the ability to use 4k, 120Hz refresh rate and 10bit color depth and 4:4:4 Chroma up to 40 GBPS.


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## Otto Pylot

@Mach725 To be clear, conduit is not necessary to future proofing in-wall cable runs. Cables can be installed in-wall without conduit if you are careful but conduit just makes it so much easier, and safer, albeit it is an expensive option. The take away is easy access how ever you choose to do that. There is more to future proofing than just purchasing a cable.

I already touched on certification pros and cons. Not necessary but not a bad idea either. As I said, the list I posted is just a guide and not a promotion for any specific brand of cable.


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## Rebound

Tanquen said:


> Certification doesn't matter.
> 
> You have a PS5 so you have the ability to use 4k, 120Hz refresh rate and 10bit color depth.


Certification matters. The certification tests are very rigorous, especially for Ultra High Speed.

An uncertified cable might work perfectly if you test it at 1080p or even 4K, and then fail at the full speed. 4K120 is not the full speed of HDMI 2.1 Ultra High Speed Cables, and there are many different ways to implement 4K120, which use different amounts of bandwidth. What can also happen is that the system will perform link training and send lower quality video over the uncertified cable. You may never get a notification of this slowdown.


----------



## Tanquen

Rebound said:


> Certification matters. The certification tests are very rigorous, especially for Ultra High Speed.
> 
> An uncertified cable might work perfectly if you test it at 1080p or even 4K, and then fail at the full speed. 4K120 is not the full speed of HDMI 2.1 Ultra High Speed Cables, and there are many different ways to implement 4K120, which use different amounts of bandwidth. What can also happen is that the system will perform link training and send lower quality video over the uncertified cable. You may never get a notification of this slowdown.


Certification doesn't matter. The cable just needs to be manufactured to spec. In my home and computers and cars I have all kinds of data cables and none of them are certified. They are tested and designed to work at spec and the manufacturers and developers work together to try and make sure that all the cables they need work the way they should.

Any data cable certified or not can work at lower bandwidths and then fail at higher ones. Are the wires too thin? Are they not twisted when they need to be? Is there shielding? Is the cable too long etc. Putting a logo on the box and saying it's certified doesn't mean anything. Anyone can design a data cable and make sure that it can pass the bandwidth that needs to label it that way and sell it.

Just 4K 120 by itself may not the max out the 40-48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth but 4K, 120 Hz, 10-12-bit color and 4:4:4 Chroma will.

Not sure about link training stuff or when it would come into play but when I set my source at higher bandwidth and if the cable can't do it I don't get a picture.


----------



## Tanquen

@Mach725 Just keep in mind only you can decide if you want to do future proofing or not. There's no harm in seeing on what's out there and what's coming and if it makes sense for you to wait a few months and purchase a new AVR or cable or whatever that has some features that you may want to use later on. For most of us it has nothing to do with how difficult it is to install a cable or put an AVR up on a shelf that's really high or in a rack that you really don't want to disassemble the next time around etc. That can be a pain in the butt but it has nothing to do with wanting to try to do a little bit of future proofing. There's no harm in it and it can be advantageous, especially with the HDMI 2.1 cables and not wanting to have more outdated cables laying around over the coming years. Or even if you just end up wanting to give it to a friend or relative or something. It's nice to have a more up to date version of the cable that can pass more bandwidth. Conduit can't fix a bad cable and is not "the ONLY way to future proof".


----------



## Mach725

Thank you all for the responses. I first pre ran some corrugated tubing, (black in the second picture) and quickly realized it was impossible to run anything in. So then I ran grey 2” conduit. That’s what I have now. Even with that it was difficult to run the current fiber hdmi(I didn’t use any lube) which probably made it difficult. This next one I plane on using a gallon of lube if needed.


----------



## Rebound

Tanquen said:


> Certification doesn't matter. The cable just needs to be manufactured to spec. In my home and computers and cars I have all kinds of data cables and none of them are certified. They are tested and designed to work at spec and the manufacturers and developers work together to try and make sure that all the cables they need work the way they should.
> 
> Any data cable certified or not can work at lower bandwidths and then fail at higher ones. Are the wires too thin? Are they not twisted when they need to be? Is there shielding? Is the cable too long etc. Putting a logo on the box and saying it's certified doesn't mean anything. Anyone can design a data cable and make sure that it can pass the bandwidth that needs to label it that way and sell it.
> 
> Just 4K 120 by itself may not the max out the 40-48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth but 4K, 120 Hz, 10-12-bit color and 4:4:4 Chroma will.
> 
> Not sure about link training stuff or when it would come into play but when I set my source at higher bandwidth and if the cable can't do it I don't get a picture.


I’ll take the time to explain these things if you’re interested in learning about them.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Rebound said:


> Certification matters. The certification tests are very rigorous, especially for Ultra High Speed.
> 
> An uncertified cable might work perfectly if you test it at 1080p or even 4K, and then fail at the full speed. 4K120 is not the full speed of HDMI 2.1 Ultra High Speed Cables, and there are many different ways to implement 4K120, which use different amounts of bandwidth. What can also happen is that the system will perform link training and send lower quality video over the uncertified cable. You may never get a notification of this slowdown.





Mach725 said:


> Thank you all for the responses. I first pre ran some corrugated tubing, (black in the second picture) and quickly realized it was impossible to run anything in. So then I ran grey 2” conduit. That’s what I have now. Even with that it was difficult to run the current fiber hdmi(I didn’t use any lube) which probably made it difficult. This next one I plane on using a gallon of lube if needed.
> View attachment 3258979
> 
> View attachment 3258978


Corrugated tubing for conduit can be difficult. A smooth interior walled conduit works very well because there is nothing for the cable to get "stuck" on.


----------



## Mach725

Otto Pylot said:


> Corrugated tubing for conduit can be difficult. A smooth interior walled conduit works very well because there is nothing for the cable to get "stuck" on.


I think the 4-90 degree angles make mine somewhat difficulty


----------



## Otto Pylot

Mach725 said:


> I think the 4-90 degree angles make mine somewhat difficulty


You just need to make sure that the 90º bends are not too sharp. They really need to be as gentle of a bend as is possible. If you use elbow connectors for the bend you should be able to do that.


----------



## Mach725

Otto Pylot said:


> You just need to make sure that the 90º bends are not too sharp. They really need to be as gentle of a bend as is possible. If you use elbow connectors for the bend you should be able to do that.


Yea, they are the supplied standard elbow connectors


----------



## Otto Pylot

Mach725 said:


> Yea, they are the supplied standard elbow connectors


Well, as long as you don't pull too tight on the cable and it has some room to move (doesn't follow the contour too tightly) you should be ok. When you test the cable out of the floor you could always test it with a few elbow connectors just to make sure. That's probably an overkill but it's an easy thing to do.


----------



## Tanquen

Rebound said:


> I’ll take the time to explain these things if you’re interested in learning about them.


Go ahead, I wonder about when the link training works. I have an HDMI 2.1 source and TV but never seen it, the picture just cuts out if the cable can't support the bandwidth, the source never changes on it's own. Maybe newer DVD players will do it? If there is a misunderstanding about how stuff works you don't need anyone's permission to post about it. Just don't be too condescending, it upsets some folks here when you express your views/facts and they have to backtrack.


----------



## Ratman

Tanquen said:


> Just don't be too condescending, it upsets some folks here when you express your views/facts and they have to backtrack.


Good advice.


----------



## Tanquen

Ratman said:


> Good advice.


Not funyn. Like whin fokls post poo emojis and belittle folks about spleling and such. Not funny, but to some I guess they think it is. Then say they never did and or victim shame and say they are too sensitive.


----------



## Ratman

Good advice?


----------



## Otto Pylot

What was wrong with the “good advice” comment? I don’t see anything in the comment about spelling, shaming someone or anything like that.


----------



## Rebound

Tanquen said:


> Go ahead, I wonder about when the link training works. I have an HDMI 2.1 source and TV but never seen it, the picture just cuts out if the cable can't support the bandwidth, the source never changes on it's own. Maybe newer DVD players will do it? If there is a misunderstanding about how stuff works you don't need anyone's permission to post about it. Just don't be too condescending, it upsets some folks here when you express your views/facts and they have to backtrack.


I will try to briefly explain link training in HDMI. 
First, let's backtrack:

HDMI 1.4b: This covers rates of up to about 9 Gbps (basically up to 4K30)
HDMI 2.0: This added rates up to 17.82 Gbps (basically 4K60, 8-bit 4:4:4)
HDMI 2.1: This added rates up to 48 Gbps plus optional use of DSC up to 3X (basically 8K and beyond)
In HDMI 2.0, everything up to 9 Gbps was already defined in HDMI 1.4b and did not change. 
In HDMI 2.1, everything up to 17.82 Gbps was already defined in HDMI 2.0 and did not change

To give you some history: The creators of HDMI 1.0 weren't sure at the time that HDMI would be able to support 1080p60, just as the creators of HDMI 2.1 weren't sure that Ultra High Speed cables longer than 6 feet would be possible. 

HDMI 2.0 was not very difficult: It mostly added only 4K50 and 4K60 modes (4K30 10-bit and 12-bit 4:4:4 were also made possible). It was basically HDMI 1.4b, running twice as fast. They added scrambling to reduce EMI, but it's basically the same thing: Three pairs of 8b10b TMDS plus a separate clock pair.

HDMI 2.1 was a vastly larger undertaking. The team took a long time to agree on an approach, but one thing that was clear is that simply doubling or tripling the clock speed wouldn't work. More data pairs were needed and different signaling was needed. The TMDS method was replaced. Instead of three differential pairs plus clock, it became four differential pairs with embedded clock. Instead of 8b10b, it became 16b18b. Instead of a 6 GHz rate on three channels, it became a 12 GHz rate on four channels. And because of the embedded clock, the video data was packetized and distributed across the four differential pairs. HDMI was no longer R, G and B plus Clock; it was packets. This mode of operation is called Fixed Rate Link, or FRL.

The FRL scheme needed backward compatibility, and so HDMI 2.1 has a discovery phase in which the HDMI 2.1 Transmitter device determines what the downstream Display is capable of. If the downstream display could only support HDMI 2.0 (or 1.4b, etc.), then the old school TMDS signaling would be used. That did not change.

Let's get to the Link Training part. The HDMI Forum members were very upset that whenever a cable was bad, no video would be sent. For instance, the cable could work fine with 1080p, but fail when 4K60 mode was used. There was no way for the HDMI 2.0-based system to know that the cable was failing, and the creators of HDMI 2.1 hated that. This was unfixable in HDMI 2.0-based systems or in the HDMI 2.0 modes, but in the HDMI 2.1 modes, Link Training would test the cable every time, to ensure that the maximum HDMI speed could be supported by the cable. 

When the HDMI 2.1 Source device discovers an HDMI 2.1 Display, it initiates the use of Link Training to send a pattern of characters at the highest rate which the Display will support. If the Display reports success, that link speed is used. Otherwise, the Source will try a lower and lower link speed until it succeeds. This can result in either reducing the maximum transmitted resolution, frame rate, or chroma sampling mode, or it may result in the use of DSC. The plus is that you get video even if the cable quality is marginal.

If you just experience a solid black screen, then either the cable is very bad, or the FRL mode isn't being used at all. FRL is required over 4K60 8-bit 4:4:4, and it's optional at lower rates.


----------



## Tanquen

Rebound said:


> I will try to briefly explain link training in HDMI.
> First, let's backtrack:
> 
> HDMI 1.4b: This covers rates of up to about 9 Gbps (basically up to 4K30)
> HDMI 2.0: This added rates up to 17.82 Gbps (basically 4K60, 8-bit 4:4:4)
> HDMI 2.1: This added rates up to 48 Gbps plus optional use of DSC up to 3X (basically 8K and beyond)
> In HDMI 2.0, everything up to 9 Gbps was already defined in HDMI 1.4b and did not change.
> In HDMI 2.1, everything up to 17.82 Gbps was already defined in HDMI 2.0 and did not change
> 
> To give you some history: The creators of HDMI 1.0 weren't sure at the time that HDMI would be able to support 1080p60, just as the creators of HDMI 2.1 weren't sure that Ultra High Speed cables longer than 6 feet would be possible.
> 
> HDMI 2.0 was not very difficult: It mostly added only 4K50 and 4K60 modes (4K30 10-bit and 12-bit 4:4:4 were also made possible). It was basically HDMI 1.4b, running twice as fast. They added scrambling to reduce EMI, but it's basically the same thing: Three pairs of 8b10b TMDS plus a separate clock pair.
> 
> HDMI 2.1 was a vastly larger undertaking. The team took a long time to agree on an approach, but one thing that was clear is that simply doubling or tripling the clock speed wouldn't work. More data pairs were needed and different signaling was needed. The TMDS method was replaced. Instead of three differential pairs plus clock, it became four differential pairs with embedded clock. Instead of 8b10b, it became 16b18b. Instead of a 6 GHz rate on three channels, it became a 12 GHz rate on four channels. And because of the embedded clock, the video data was packetized and distributed across the four differential pairs. HDMI was no longer R, G and B plus Clock; it was packets. This mode of operation is called Fixed Rate Link, or FRL.
> 
> The FRL scheme needed backward compatibility, and so HDMI 2.1 has a discovery phase in which the HDMI 2.1 Transmitter device determines what the downstream Display is capable of. If the downstream display could only support HDMI 2.0 (or 1.4b, etc.), then the old school TMDS signaling would be used. That did not change.
> 
> Let's get to the Link Training part. The HDMI Forum members were very upset that whenever a cable was bad, no video would be sent. For instance, the cable could work fine with 1080p, but fail when 4K60 mode was used. There was no way for the HDMI 2.0-based system to know that the cable was failing, and the creators of HDMI 2.1 hated that. This was unfixable in HDMI 2.0-based systems or in the HDMI 2.0 modes, but in the HDMI 2.1 modes, Link Training would test the cable every time, to ensure that the maximum HDMI speed could be supported by the cable.
> 
> When the HDMI 2.1 Source device discovers an HDMI 2.1 Display, it initiates the use of Link Training to send a pattern of characters at the highest rate which the Display will support. If the Display reports success, that link speed is used. Otherwise, the Source will try a lower and lower link speed until it succeeds. This can result in either reducing the maximum transmitted resolution, frame rate, or chroma sampling mode, or it may result in the use of DSC. The plus is that you get video even if the cable quality is marginal.
> 
> If you just experience a solid black screen, then either the cable is very bad, or the FRL mode isn't being used at all. FRL is required over 4K60 8-bit 4:4:4, and it's optional at lower rates.


So like I said, I don't think anything's using it yet. DVD or Blu-ray or media players won't go over the FRL requirement and I guess PCs with graphics cards don't support it? At any rate, never seen it. If you have a bad cable and you push the bandwidth you just get no picture and or audio dropouts and video dropouts and or sometimes rarely sparkles type stuff.

I also read some stuff where they were debating if or how to show the end user that the mode was engaged. I'd rather have the cable just not work. They need to have some kind of indication on the source or the TV to let you know that it's using that mode and not showing you the resolution and frame rate that you selected.


----------



## Rebound

Tanquen said:


> So like I said, I don't think anything's using it yet. DVD or Blu-ray or media players won't go over the FRL requirement and I guess PCs with graphics cards don't support it? At any rate, never seen it. If you have a bad cable and you push the bandwidth you just get no picture and or audio dropouts and video dropouts and or sometimes rarely sparkles type stuff.
> 
> I also read some stuff where they were debating if or how to show the end user that the mode was engaged. I'd rather have the cable just not work. They need to have some kind of indication on the source or the TV to let you know that it's using that mode and not showing you the resolution and frame rate that you selected.


Game consoles which run at 4K120 use the HDMI 2.1 Fixed Rate Link mode. Blu-rays do not use FRL. 
The HDMI Spec cannot require indicators like you mention, although I agree they’re a good idea. The indicator can be displayed by either the Source device or the display, so if that’s something you want, only purchase products which offer such displays. For instance, a TV can one HDMI input or ten; the Spec cannot determine which. But as a consumer, you can vote with your wallet. Now, most TV’s have four HDMI’s but the Black Friday Special sets might have just two.


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## Grisbal

Deleted - Off-Topic


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## Ratman

@Grisbal
Welcome to AVSForum.

Please don't be offended, but (in my opinion) it would be better if you start a new/separate thread with your questions and ask the moderators to delete this post or perhaps have them move it and create a new thread for you .

That would probably get a more personal focus with your issues.

This thread topic (Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1) is not related to your specific requests/questions.


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## Grisbal

Hey @Ratman,

yes, I think I will start a new thread for this topic. Thank you for your advice.


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## Rock Danger

We should be testing a bunch of different brands as we've demo rooms to build with multi input sources and displays. I've some new Ruipro stuff on the way so can at least comment on those in my personal system and then in the demo rooms.


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## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> We should be testing a bunch of different brands as we've demo rooms to build with multi input sources and displays. I've some new Ruipro stuff on the way so can at least comment on those in my personal system and then in the demo rooms.


I've tested a lot of cables with either one of my HTS's and then given the cables to a friend who has a very nice game setup as I am not a gamer so I can only push the HDMI 2.0 option sets on my systems. However, our runs are not 50' like some are using. All of the cables that I've tested have worked on my systems and my friend's but that doesn't always translate to every possible combination of devices and setups, and is far from a guarantee that works for some will work for everyone. That was the whole idea of the testing post that ARROW-AV started but it quickly became too difficult to maintain. The list that I created was just to give folks an idea on what is available that has worked for most here on AVS. However, the more independent testing is always a good thing. Cables, in theory, should work as advertised but that's not always the case. Recommendations, not absolutes.


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## Rock Danger

Otto Pylot said:


> I've tested a lot of cables with either one of my HTS's and then given the cables to a friend who has a very nice game setup as I am not a gamer so I can only push the HDMI 2.0 option sets on my systems. However, our runs are not 50' like some are using. All of the cables that I've tested have worked on my systems and my friend's but that doesn't always translate to every possible combination of devices and setups, and is far from a guarantee that works for some will work for everyone. That was the whole idea of the testing post that ARROW-AV started but it quickly became too difficult to maintain. The list that I created was just to give folks an idea on what is available that has worked for most here on AVS. However, the more independent testing is always a good thing. Cables, in theory, should work as advertised but that's not always the case. Recommendations, not absolutes.


Right, and this will be a continuation of what Arrow did as it's his new demo rooms. So multi room, multi sources, multi brands and multi length. I'm using some of your list suggestions in this I would imagine.


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## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> Right, and this will be a continuation of what Arrow did as it's his new demo rooms. So multi room, multi sources, multi brands and multi length. I'm using some of your list suggestions in this I would imagine.


Excellent! I'll look forward to hearing about your progress. I know ARROW-AV had to give it up after awhile due to time constraints and shifting priorities. Feel free to message me if there is anything I can do.


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## Mach725

I just swapped out my monster “48gbps” hdmi with the certified 8k monoprice 48gbps 65ft cable. First off, electrical lube is an absolute life saver. Secondly, all hooked up and no more video and audio dropouts!


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## Otto Pylot

Mach725 said:


> I just swapped out my monster “48gbps” hdmi with the certified 8k monoprice 48gbps 65ft cable. First off, electrical lube is an absolute life saver. Secondly, all hooked up and no more video and audio dropouts!


That's good to hear. I didn't add Monoprice to my list because I wanted to keep it to cable mfrs, and not resellers, but if you got a cable that works, that's all that matters.


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## mikemazz

Hello Everyone. I have been on this and other HDMI threads, however have not seen these cables listed specifically. I recently "upgraded" to this Audioquest cable from a monoprice one. 7.5' run directly from 4k DirectTV genie into Samsung Q90 (no wall plates). From my research from the manufacturer it looks like this particular "sky" model is a BB exclusive. 
As I am a novice I believe I did enough research to determine that this was 2.1 capable. I did see the certification barcode on the packaging as well. I would feel much better if anyone here can assure me that this was a good purchase. Thank you!


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## Otto Pylot

mikemazz said:


> Hello Everyone. I have been on this and other HDMI threads, however have not seen these cables listed specifically. I recently "upgraded" to this Audioquest cable from a monoprice one. 7.5' run directly from 4k DirectTV genie into Samsung Q90 (no wall plates). From my research from the manufacturer it looks like this particular "sky" model is a BB exclusive.
> As I am a novice I believe I did enough research to determine that this was 2.1 capable. I did see the certification barcode on the packaging as well. I would feel much better if anyone here can assure me that this was a good purchase. Thank you!
> 
> View attachment 3270104


AudioQuest does not get a lot of love around here. They do make good cables but they are overpriced and overhyped for what you get. If the cable is certified for the HDMI 2.1 options sets (Ultra High Speed HDMI) or the HDMI 2.0 option sets (Premium High Speed HDMI) they will come with a QR label for authenticity on the packaging. Period.

Keep in mind that certification is not a guarantee that the cable will work as expected for all system devices and installations. $120 for an 8' cable is outrageous! If 8' is your maximum length (given enough slack so that there are no sharp bends or strain on the HDMI input) you could use a passive, certified UHS HDMI cable for a LOT less money. An active cable at that length is an expensive overkill.

There are other choices on my Short List of HDMI cables to consider other than AudioQuest. Do you need a fire rated (CL2) cable? I'm assuming the the AQ cable is fire rated because it mentions in-wall installation.

Why don't you explain your cable setup in a bit more detail.


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## mikemazz

My cable setup is very simple, in fact, and thank you for the response! I have the DirecTV genie on a shelf above the tv. The HDMI cable goes through a brush plate and into the wall, comes down behind and through another brush plate directly into the back of the TV. What happened was I was experiencing intermintent cut outs with the old cable and was at the time using hdmi wall plates. I recently upgraded my tv to the samsung q90a "neo qled" tv (2021 model) and got all excited, so I spent the extra money on this cable and replaced the wall plates with brush plates as to get a direct connection.The picture quality looks to be amazing to me and I have not had cutout issues, however I am unsure if I am in fact receiving true 4k @ 60hz connection. The "info" button on the direct tv just say "4k" or 2160.


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## Rebound

mikemazz said:


> My cable setup is very simple, in fact, and thank you for the response! I have the DirecTV genie on a shelf above the tv. The HDMI cable goes through a brush plate and into the wall, comes down behind and through another brush plate directly into the back of the TV. What happened was I was experiencing intermintent cut outs with the old cable and was at the time using hdmi wall plates. I recently upgraded my tv to the samsung q90a "neo qled" tv (2021 model) and got all excited, so I spent the extra money on this cable and replaced the wall plates with brush plates as to get a direct connection.The picture quality looks to be amazing to me and I have not had cutout issues, however I am unsure if I am in fact receiving true 4k @ 60hz connection. The "info" button on the direct tv just say "4k" or 2160.


The TV by default will not present a 4K60 EDID. You need to tell the TV to do this through its setup menu.


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## Otto Pylot

mikemazz said:


> My cable setup is very simple, in fact, and thank you for the response! I have the DirecTV genie on a shelf above the tv. The HDMI cable goes through a brush plate and into the wall, comes down behind and through another brush plate directly into the back of the TV. What happened was I was experiencing intermintent cut outs with the old cable and was at the time using hdmi wall plates. I recently upgraded my tv to the samsung q90a "neo qled" tv (2021 model) and got all excited, so I spent the extra money on this cable and replaced the wall plates with brush plates as to get a direct connection.The picture quality looks to be amazing to me and I have not had cutout issues, however I am unsure if I am in fact receiving true 4k @ 60hz connection. The "info" button on the direct tv just say "4k" or 2160.


I have the same tv in my family room. I use the Zeskit Lite, passive, UHS HDMI cables. I haven't bothered to check if it's receiving 4k 60Hz because the pq is just fine, whether it's a direct connection from my cable box or the ATV4k. Brush or passthrough wall plates is the way to go. Keep in mind that the cable is just a data pipe. What determines what you get is the source and sink devices, not the cable. I'd return the AQ cable and get a different passive, UHS HDMI cable for a lot less money with the same performance. The HDMI wall plates was probably your problem.

The most reliable connection is a single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, or extenders in-between. And be mindful of bend radius.


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## mikemazz

Thank you for the advice. It looks like these Zeskit cables are a fraction of the cost!
It is interesting the way that you word it, it is simply a data pipe. Gold plated connecters, fancy names, the jacket , seems to have very little affect on the video/audio quality. 
However, perhaps they help with the durability of the cable and how long it lasts?
I have a pretty decent bend going into the back of the devices, as the shelf holding the genie is not as deep as it should be, and the tv is wall mounted , titled downward.


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## Ratman

mikemazz said:


> Gold plated connecters, fancy names, the jacket , seems to have very little affect on the video/audio quality.
> However, perhaps they help with the durability of the cable and how long it lasts?


None.
Perhaps, but unlikely.
(Of course.... just MY opinion.  )


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## Otto Pylot

mikemazz said:


> Thank you for the advice. It looks like these Zeskit cables are a fraction of the cost!
> It is interesting the way that you word it, it is simply a data pipe. Gold plated connecters, fancy names, the jacket , seems to have very little affect on the video/audio quality.
> However, perhaps they help with the durability of the cable and how long it lasts?
> I have a pretty decent bend going into the back of the devices, as the shelf holding the genie is not as deep as it should be, and the tv is wall mounted , titled downward.


That's really all an HDMI cable is. Gold plating, pure silver, oxygen-free copper all sounds good and possibly does help with connections but the advantages are probably beyond what the human eyes and ears can perceive. The ultimate test is if you can get a signal without sparkles, dropouts, etc. If you can, then you are getting the best signal possible. The real determining factor is the HDMI chipsets in the source and sink device. The cable just takes the signal from point A to point B. Of course that gets more complicated the longer the cable run is and what you try to push. Now, if the cable is cheaply made using cheap components then yeah, you can have issues. That's why my list is comprised of cables that have worked well for AVS users because those cables are well made. There is nothing wrong with Monoprice cables, they do offer a nice selection of cables that work, but they are a cable reseller, not a cable mfr, so the consumer really doesn't know who the mfr is. That's why I kept the list to just cable mfrs.

Make sure the bend radius is not a sharp, 90º bend because that can affect reliability down the road. Gentle bends or loops are ok. Passive, certified cables are stiffer than the hybrid fiber kind so it's a good idea to have a little extra length in the cable to avoid the sharp bends or strain on the HDMI input. My cables have a gentle loop in them to keep them tucked up and out of the way,


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## mikemazz

Interesting, thank you for all of the good advice.


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## johndoejohndoes

I’m looking for the best in wall rated cable for 10-12 feet that is the most future proof so I don’t have to run behind the wall again.


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## Otto Pylot

johndoejohndoes said:


> I’m looking for the best in wall rated cable for 10-12 feet that is the most future proof so I don’t have to run behind the wall again.


CL2/3 fire rated cables, due to the thicker jacket requirements, do not have as good as a bend radius than non-CL2/3 rated cables. That being said, you may need a little bit longer length because you do not want any sharp bends in the cable or any undue strain on the HDMI ports.

Ideally, the best way, and probably the only way to "future proof" your in-wall cabling is to use a 1.5"-2.0" flexible conduit with a pull string. That way you can easily install whatever cable you need and still have room to run other cabling should you choose to do so in the future. And, if the cable ever needs to be upgraded and/or replaced for any reason, it's very easy to do.

Most folks are choosing to install ATC certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cables (HDMI 2.1 options sets) to handle everything now and in the future if 48Gbps bandwidth in ever needed. To get an idea of what is available, and which cables have been successfully used by AVS members see my Short List found here: Short List of HDMI cables 

It is not a recommendation for any specific brand of cable as they are all good but it does give you an idea of UHS HDMI cables. The mfrs' listed offer other cables as well (some CL2/3 rated and some for the HDMI 2.0 option sets) so it's a place to start. Just keep in mind that no cable mfr can offer a 100% guarantee that their cable will work as expected in your environment and device configurations. And what ever cable you choose to get, lay it out on the floor and thoroughly test it prior to final installation to make sure it's going to meet your current needs now and in the future.

Certification is not required as there are well made, non-certified cables that will work as well but it's highly recommended that you go the certification route, be it an ATC or DPL Labs.


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## zoiks66

Has anyone had any luck with a CL2 or CL3 rated (in wall use) 40-50 feet long 48gbps HDMI 2.1 cable I can use to connect a new receiver with PS5 and Xbox Series X consoles to a new tv? I’d like to use 4K120Hz and VRR for gaming.

I’ve contacted several of the manufacturers listed in the 1st post, and RuiPro is the only one I can find with CL2 rated cables in stock right now in the length I need, but while their “black“ fiber HDMI cable is CL2 rated, they told me it’s not certified. I’ll be paying an installer to run the cable, and I’d rather not find I bought a defective cable when the installer is at my house. The installer said they could sell me an AudioQuest cable, but it would cost over $600, so they suggested I provide my own cable for the installation. I’m leaning towards buying the RuiPro cable, but I’m hesitant since it’s not certified.


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## Otto Pylot

zoiks66 said:


> Has anyone had any luck with a CL2 or CL3 rated (in wall use) 40-50 feet long 48gbps HDMI 2.1 cable I can use to connect a new receiver with PS5 and Xbox Series X consoles to a new tv? I’d like to use 4K120Hz and VRR for gaming.
> 
> I’ve contacted several of the manufacturers listed in the 1st post, and RuiPro is the only one I can find with CL2 rated cables in stock right now in the length I need, but while their “black“ fiber HDMI cable is CL2 rated, they told me it’s not certified. I’ll be paying an installer to run the cable, and I’d rather not find I bought a defective cable when the installer is at my house. The installer said they could sell me an AudioQuest cable, but it would cost over $600, so they suggested I provide my own cable for the installation. I’m leaning towards buying the RuiPro cable, but I’m hesitant since it’s not certified.


AudioQuest, while they do make good cables, are overpriced and overhyped. Certification is not a guarantee that the cable will work as expected but it's still a good idea to get a certified cable because at least you know it's been tested and certified following standardized procedures designed by HDMI.org. No cable mfr can guarantee 100% of the time that their cable is going to work with all devices in all setups.

At a 40'-50' cable run, adding a bit of length at both ends for a service loop, you'd be best to make sure the installer uses a 1.5"-2.0" flexible, smooth-walled conduit, with pull strings. Given what you want to do, it's certainly doable at that length but you want to make sure you have easy, and safe access to your cabling in case you need to make replace/upgrade your cabling. Using a conduit for in-wall installations, or at the very, least having easy access to your cabling is the only way to "future proof". For reliability, a single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, extenders in-between is the most reliable connection, especially for an active cable (which hybrid fiber cables are).

Are you sure you want to install a fire rated (CL2/CL3) cable? That certainly limits your selection of cables, and the cables are a bit more stiffer than non-CL rated cables because of the jacket requirements. Stiffness translates to a somewhat reduced bend radius and potential strain on the HDMI ports. You do not want sharp, 90º bends in the cable.


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## zoiks66

Otto Pylot said:


> AudioQuest, while they do make good cables, are overpriced and overhyped. Certification is not a guarantee that the cable will work as expected but it's still a good idea to get a certified cable because at least you know it's been tested and certified following standardized procedures designed by HDMI.org. No cable mfr can guarantee 100% of the time that their cable is going to work with all devices in all setups.
> 
> At a 40'-50' cable run, adding a bit of length at both ends for a service loop, you'd be best to make sure the installer uses a 1.5"-2.0" flexible, smooth-walled conduit, with pull strings. Given what you want to do, it's certainly doable at that length but you want to make sure you have easy, and safe access to your cabling in case you need to make replace/upgrade your cabling. Using a conduit for in-wall installations, or at the very, least having easy access to your cabling is the only way to "future proof". For reliability, a single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, extenders in-between is the most reliable connection, especially for an active cable (which hybrid fiber cables are).
> 
> Are you sure you want to install a fire rated (CL2/CL3) cable? That certainly limits your selection of cables, and the cables are a bit more stiffer than non-CL rated cables because of the jacket requirements. Stiffness translates to a somewhat reduced bend radius and potential strain on the HDMI ports. You do not want sharp, 90º bends in the cable.


Thanks for the info. The installer told me CL2 or CL3 cabling is required by code where I live and insinuated they won't install a regular HDMI cable.


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## Otto Pylot

zoiks66 said:


> Thanks for the info. The installer told me CL2 or CL3 cabling is required by code where I live and insinuated they won't install a regular HDMI cable.


That is a problem because even for LV cabling, CL-rating is code for a lot of areas. You could have them install conduit, with pull strings, and pull your own cable. It might be a good idea to check into the building codes yourself for LV wiring just to confirm. I always am a bit suspicious of installers who will only install a cable like AudioQuest for an overinflated price. If you have them install a cable, and don't use conduit, you should make sure that they don't tack the cable down to studs or whatever because if they do, you will never be able to replace the cable without going back into the attic space or where ever and removing it.

The 50' CL-rated cable would probably work but you need to lay the cable out on the floor first and test it thoroughly prior to installation to make sure it's going to meet your needs now and your expectations for the future. However, a 50' non-certified hybrid fiber, CL-rated cable, with a stiff bend radius, may prove to be challenging down the road.

Are you planning on using pass-through wall plates to maintain cable continuity?


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## Ratman

zoiks66 said:


> Thanks for the info. The installer told me CL2 or CL3 cabling is required by code where I live and insinuated they won't install a regular HDMI cable.





Otto Pylot said:


> It might be a good idea to check into the building codes yourself for LV wiring just to confirm. I always am a bit suspicious of installers who will only install a cable like AudioQuest for an overinflated price.


You could look into a different installer.

Also... whatever cable you chose, test _before_ permanently installing in-wall (with the installer present). That way you'll be sure that the cable is not the cause of any unexpected problems.


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## gbynum

zoiks66 said:


> The installer told me CL2 or CL3 cabling is required by code where I live and insinuated they won't install a regular HDMI cable.


If LISTED conduit is used, do the cables still have to be CL2 or CL3? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I think it wasn't required.


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## Otto Pylot

Good idea on "interviewing" a different installer and testing while the installer is there beforehand. That way, with a couple of days of testing before installation, and one final test with the installer, the OP should be good to go. And then test AFTER installation, with the installer, to make sure nothing happened during the install (too sharp of a bend radius, etc). Also, make sure the installer does not pull the cable by the connector ends. If he knows what he's doing, he won't.

@gbynum Hmmm, I've never heard of LISTED conduit so that's a distinct possibility. I would think that LISTED conduit would not be flexible. Google is my friend 😁.


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## zoiks66

Thanks for all of the info. I went ahead and bought a 50 ft Ultra High Speed Certified cable from Cable Matters that isn’t CL rated and I’ll have the installer use conduit to run it. I’ve had good experience with Cable Matters’ cables in the past, and I’ll be able to connect everything and test the cables and setup before I have an installer run the cables and conduit through the wall.

I think I’m going to find another installer to interview, as the original one has been overly insistent about using AudioQuest cables they sell me, which has made me feel uncomfortable with their business. Their quoted cable costs are around 6x what I paid buying them myself.


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## Otto Pylot

zoiks66 said:


> Thanks for all of the info. I went ahead and bought a 50 ft Ultra High Speed Certified cable from Cable Matters that isn’t CL rated and I’ll have the installer use conduit to run it. I’ve had good experience with Cable Matters’ cables in the past, and I’ll be able to connect everything and test the cables and setup before I have an installer run the cables and conduit through the wall.
> 
> I think I’m going to find another installer to interview, as the original one has been overly insistent about using AudioQuest cables they sell me, which has made me feel uncomfortable with their business. Their quoted cable costs are around 6x what I paid buying them myself.


CablesMatter make good cables so you should be ok. Ruipro and Phoossno also make good cables so you do have choices if the CablesMatters doesn't work well or reliably. As to the AudioQuest cables, on another forum a lot of contributors call them "FraudioQuest" because of their marketing, product descriptions, and cost. I'm sure the installer who is pushing AQ cable gets some sort of "credit" or whatever for pushing their cables.

Just make sure you test the cable PRIOR to final installation to make sure it's going to meet your needs and expectations. I'd test it for a week with whatever you are going to use it with. And, as I've mentioned before, single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, extenders, or adapters.


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## zoiks66

Otto Pylot said:


> CablesMatter make good cables so you should be ok. Ruipro and Phoossno also make good cables so you do have choices if the CablesMatters doesn't work well or reliably. As to the AudioQuest cables, on another forum a lot of contributors call them "FraudioQuest" because of their marketing, product descriptions, and cost. I'm sure the installer who is pushing AQ cable gets some sort of "credit" or whatever for pushing their cables.
> 
> Just make sure you test the cable PRIOR to final installation to make sure it's going to meet your needs and expectations. I'd test it for a week with whatever you are going to use it with. And, as I've mentioned before, single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, extenders, or adapters.


My plan is to hook everything up to my new tv, with the new tv not yet hung on the wall, and test everything for several days to make sure everything is working. For my current setup, a 10 year old 35 ft long HDMI cable is run directly to the tv hanging on the wall from the area where my receiver is. There are no wall jacks, extenders, etc. I’m just not sure if the installer back then used conduit. I’m guessing not, so I’ll have conduit used this time, along with a pull line attached to the new HDMI cable, so I can hopefully run the cable myself next time.


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## Otto Pylot

zoiks66 said:


> My plan is to hook everything up to my new tv, with the new tv not yet hung on the wall, and test everything for several days to make sure everything is working. For my current setup, a 10 year old 35 ft long HDMI cable is run directly to the tv hanging on the wall from the area where my receiver is. There are no wall jacks, extenders, etc. I’m just not sure if the installer back then used conduit. I’m guessing not, so I’ll have conduit used this time, along with a pull line attached to the new HDMI cable, so I can hopefully run the cable myself next time.


Chances are the installer didn't run conduit. With a wall open, it's easy-breezy. With the walls closed, it's much more difficult. If you go up, over, and down, that's not too bad because you don't need conduit in the crawl space, only in the walls going up and then down as long as you keep the attic space cable away from HV wiring and ducting. As far as the walls go, you may even be lucky enough to fish cable up and down between studs. For the pull string, I'd run two. One for the initial cable pull and and extra one for future cable pulls. And if you do a second cable pull (solid core CAT-6 to extend an ethernet connect for example), then you can always attach a third string to the cable and then detach it once the cable is pulled and you still have another pull string available. 

Flexible, smooth interior walled conduit would be ideal. If it's ribbed on the inside that's a potential area for the connector ends to snag a bit during the pull. Don't attach the pull string to the connector end. Attach to the body of the cable and secure the connector end from bending back on itself when being pulled around a corner. Cables, especially hybrid fiber or active copper are pretty durable, but if you take a little extra caution it may save you from installation issues now and in the future..


----------



## Archaea

Anyone had any luck with a longer (around a 20 foot) passive cable for HDMI 2.1 120Hz/4K specifically or a gaming PC with a nvidia 3080.

Looking at this one for instance?








Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 23ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics


Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 23ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics



www.amazon.com





Seems like it might cost me twice this much to go with Fiber from the likes of Ruipro or similar.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Archaea said:


> Anyone had any luck with a longer (around a 20 foot) passive cable for HDMI 2.1 120Hz/4K specifically or a gaming PC with a nvidia 3080.
> 
> Looking at this one for instance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 23ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 23ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5 : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like it might cost me twice this much to go with Fiber from the likes of Ruipro or similar.
> View attachment 3281622


You might want to look into the Zeskit Lite cables. They are exactly the same as the Maya series but they have a bit more flexibility so they are a little easier to work with as far as installation goes. I have both kinds on one of my HTSs and they work just fine. I'm not a gamer but I did loan them to a friend who has a very nice gaming system and they worked just fine. Hybrid fiber, generally speaking, are more expensive due to the chipsets and extensive testing required. If you can use certified, passive cables that is what I would recommend. Just keep in mind, that even with the Lite cables, they are still stiffer than hybrid fiber so you need to be mindful of bend radius and strain on the HDMI ports.

As we always say, just test the cables thoroughly prior to final installation to make sure they work, especially if this will be an in-wall installation with bends.


----------



## Vaporous

Thanks for this list😁😁. Just ordered a few Kenable’s 2.1 from the UK to be used in The Netherlands. Price was really affordable, just under 20 euro’s for 2🙌🏻.


----------



## Archaea

Otto Pylot said:


> You might want to look into the Zeskit Lite cables. They are exactly the same as the Maya series but they have a bit more flexibility so they are a little easier to work with as far as installation goes. I have both kinds on one of my HTSs and they work just fine. I'm not a gamer but I did loan them to a friend who has a very nice gaming system and they worked just fine. Hybrid fiber, generally speaking, are more expensive due to the chipsets and extensive testing required. If you can use certified, passive cables that is what I would recommend. Just keep in mind, that even with the Lite cables, they are still stiffer than hybrid fiber so you need to be mindful of bend radius and strain on the HDMI ports.
> 
> As we always say, just test the cables thoroughly prior to final installation to make sure they work, especially if this will be an in-wall installation with bends.


Doesn't look like those cables have options at around 20 feet, not that I see anyway?


----------



## Otto Pylot

Vaporous said:


> Thanks for this list😁😁. Just ordered a few Kenable’s 2.1 from the UK to be used in The Netherlands. Price was really affordable, just under 20 euro’s for 2🙌🏻.


Excellent. Let us know how they work.


----------



## Otto Pylot

@Archaea Hmmm. I was hoping that they would start offering passive, certified UHS HDMI cables at lengths longer than 16' for the Lite line. You might want to contact them or the other passive mfrs to see if they are offering them now. That list is getting a bit old and I haven't had time to check with the mfrs for any updates. There is nothing wrong with the Maya series, they're just a bit stiff. If not, then hybrid fiber is what you'll need but at least you have some choices. I hate to say it but you might want to check with AudioQuest as well to see if they offer passive, UHS HDMI cables at the length you need. Being AQ, they will be expensive with all kinds of marketing/product description claims. But remember, passive cables at 20' from any mfr will be stiff and that WILL affect proper installation.

Speaking of installation, is this an in-wall installation?


----------



## Archaea

Otto Pylot said:


> @Archaea Hmmm. I was hoping that they would start offering passive, certified UHS HDMI cables at lengths longer than 16' for the Lite line. You might want to contact them or the other passive mfrs to see if they are offering them now. That list is getting a bit old and I haven't had time to check with the mfrs for any updates. There is nothing wrong with the Maya series, they're just a bit stiff. If not, then hybrid fiber is what you'll need but at least you have some choices. I hate to say it but you might want to check with AudioQuest as well to see if they offer passive, UHS HDMI cables at the length you need. Being AQ, they will be expensive with all kinds of marketing/product description claims. But remember, passive cables at 20' from any mfr will be stiff and that WILL affect proper installation.
> 
> Speaking of installation, is this an in-wall installation?


Not really in wall, but it’s running through a utility room, under the staircase, along the floor with other signal cables (USB and network and speaker cables)


----------



## Otto Pylot

Archaea said:


> Not really in wall, but it’s running through a utility room, under the staircase, along the floor with other signal cables (USB and network and speaker cables)


As long as you have easy and safe access to your cabling then you can always upgrade/replace cabling as the need arises. Just be mindful of bend radius (no sharp, 90º bends). Future proofing really means easy access to your cabling.


----------



## thalsharif

@Otto Pylot
I can see RUIPRO 10m is certified in the list of first page. I want to buy from amazon.com but I can't find it there. Please can you provide the link. 

Thanks


----------



## Otto Pylot

thalsharif said:


> @Otto Pylot
> I can see RUIPRO 10m is certified in the list of first page. I want to buy from amazon.com but I can't find it there. Please can you provide the link.
> 
> Thanks


The 10m Ruipro cable won't be released until the end of June. I jumped the gun on that one. Sorry about that. Certain areas of China are still shutdown due to Covid so things are still slow over there.


----------



## Rock Danger

Haven't got round to adding to this as we are building out 2 experience centres but initial findings are that the new Ruipro certified cables @ 15m work with the new JVC RS series which are HDMI 2.1

My previous uncertified cables would not work direct or via my Trinnov. We have tested then on LG OLED, XBOX Series X, Christie and Sony projectors, so far so good. 

They even do a nice braided 2m copper cable, which I had to use because the supplied cable for the XBOX Series X would blank out randomly @ 120hz on the LG. So maybe a dodgy xbox cable but it was new out of the box. 

Zeskit has been fine with their short run passive cables too tested on Steinway Lyngdorf, Nvidia Shield etc. 

So thumbs up for Ruipro with us so far. 

Anyone forcing Audioquest on you is because they are making upwards of 60% on an overpriced (but pretty) cable. We don't and won't sell them on principle alone.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> Haven't got round to adding to this as we are building out 2 experience centres but initial findings are that the new Ruipro certified cables @ 15m work with the new JVC RS series which are HDMI 2.1
> 
> My previous uncertified cables would not work direct or via my Trinnov. We have tested then on LG OLED, XBOX Series X, Christie and Sony projectors, so far so good.
> 
> They even do a nice braided 2m copper cable, which I had to use because the supplied cable for the XBOX Series X would blank out randomly @ 120hz on the LG. So maybe a dodgy xbox cable but it was new out of the box.
> 
> Zeskit has been fine with their short run passive cables too tested on Steinway Lyngdorf, Nvidia Shield etc.
> 
> So thumbs up for Ruipro with us so far.
> 
> Anyone forcing Audioquest on you is because they are making upwards of 60% on an overpriced (but pretty) cable. We don't and won't sell them on principle alone.


I use the certified, UHS HDMI passive cables from Ruipro on one of my systems and they work just fine. The other system uses the Zeskit certified, passive UHS HDMI cables. I agree about the AQ cables. They do make good cables but are grossly overpriced and their marketing of the cables does raise some eyebrows.


----------



## Rebound

Rock Danger said:


> Haven't got round to adding to this as we are building out 2 experience centres but initial findings are that the new Ruipro certified cables @ 15m work with the new JVC RS series which are HDMI 2.1
> 
> My previous uncertified cables would not work direct or via my Trinnov. We have tested then on LG OLED, XBOX Series X, Christie and Sony projectors, so far so good.
> 
> They even do a nice braided 2m copper cable, which I had to use because the supplied cable for the XBOX Series X would blank out randomly @ 120hz on the LG. So maybe a dodgy xbox cable but it was new out of the box.
> 
> Zeskit has been fine with their short run passive cables too tested on Steinway Lyngdorf, Nvidia Shield etc.
> 
> So thumbs up for Ruipro with us so far.
> 
> Anyone forcing Audioquest on you is because they are making upwards of 60% on an overpriced (but pretty) cable. We don't and won't sell them on principle alone.


If you tell Microsoft that the cable isn’t working, they’ll likely send you another. The reason they include the cable in the box is because they want you to have a system that works.


----------



## Rock Danger

Rebound said:


> If you tell Microsoft that the cable isn’t working, they’ll likely send you another. The reason they include the cable in the box is because they want you to have a system that works.


I'm very sure they would, but I've literally boxes of HDMI cables to hand, so it's a non event. Whether they're stock cables are not very good or not isn't typically going to ever be a problem for us. I just made an observation that the new Ruipro cables are doing their job so far, if/when they're not I'll be sure to mention it.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> I'm very sure they would, but I've literally boxes of HDMI cables to hand, so it's a non event. Whether they're stock cables are not very good or not isn't typically going to ever be a problem for us. I just made an observation that the new Ruipro cables are doing their job so far, if/when they're not I'll be sure to mention it.


I can certainly identify with boxes of HDMI cables. I just cleaned out my "electronics file cabinet" last weekend and got rid of lots of cables. I've kept the ones from Ruipro, Zeskit, Phoossno, CablesMatters, and a couple of others that were given to me for testing in case I get yet another tv or someone in the family or friends needs an HDMI cable 😉. And yes, do post back if you have issues with your cable.


----------



## Rebound

Rock Danger said:


> I'm very sure they would, but I've literally boxes of HDMI cables to hand, so it's a non event. Whether they're stock cables are not very good or not isn't typically going to ever be a problem for us. I just made an observation that the new Ruipro cables are doing their job so far, if/when they're not I'll be sure to mention it.


The cable included in the newest Xbox is an Ultra High Speed cable. You probably don’t have boxes and boxes of them.


----------



## Rock Danger

Rebound said:


> The cable included in the newest Xbox is an Ultra High Speed cable. You probably don’t have boxes and boxes of them.


The Xbox cable did not work. It could have been hand spun by vestal virgins, it wouldn't matter, broken is broken.

Yes, I do have boxes of all kinds of HDMI cables as I work in the CI trade. And I'm still using cables as part of the last HDMI 2.0 cable shootout of which 2 are still running happily in my system.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> The Xbox cable did not work. It could have been hand spun by vestal virgins, it wouldn't matter, broken is broken.
> 
> Yes, I do have boxes of all kinds of HDMI cables as I work in the CI trade. And I'm still using cables as part of the last HDMI 2.0 cable shootout of which 2 are still running happily in my system.


"vestal virgins"? That sounds like an AudioQuest product description 🤣.


----------



## Rock Danger

Otto Pylot said:


> "vestal virgins"? That sounds like an AudioQuest product description 🤣.


Shsssh! Don't ruin my Xbox HDMI cable smear campaign.

I bumped it to 4k 120hz and I got periodic black screens so I replaced the cable. Yes, I should have wasted my time berating Microsoft for a replacement, because it's gotta be worth $2 and my time as you know is totally free and I'm sure the help line at MS is lighting quick 😜

So I shoved it in Nigel's Nvidia shield where it lives to this day and then I went to my 'imaginary box of cables' that Ruipro absolutely didn't send me for testing at all and was back up and running in less than 5 mins.

I think that's about the right amount of sarcasm ?🙂


----------



## Otto Pylot

Rock Danger said:


> Shsssh! Don't ruin my Xbox HDMI cable smear campaign.
> 
> I bumped it to 4k 120hz and I got periodic black screens so I replaced the cable. Yes, I should have wasted my time berating Microsoft for a replacement, because it's gotta be worth $2 and my time as you know is totally free and I'm sure the help line at MS is lighting quick 😜
> 
> So I shoved it in Nigel's Nvidia shield where it lives to this day and then I went to my 'imaginary box of cables' that Ruipro absolutely didn't send me for testing at all and was back up and running in less than 5 mins.
> 
> I think that's about the right amount of sarcasm ?🙂


Perfect 😉.


----------



## Rebound

Rock Danger said:


> The Xbox cable did not work. It could have been hand spun by vestal virgins, it wouldn't matter, broken is broken.
> 
> Yes, I do have boxes of all kinds of HDMI cables as I work in the CI trade. And I'm still using cables as part of the last HDMI 2.0 cable shootout of which 2 are still running happily in my system.


They will replace it because it did not work.


----------



## anevard

I hope this is not too OT. 

We are noticing a tiny bit of "flutter" in our image, HTPC to JVC NX7. We are using a Ruipro 15m hybrid fibre 4K cable, for 4K not 8K. 

It has been suggested that we try and add a 5v power injector to see if that will help. I have heard mention of adding the power injector to the source side, sink side, or both. Any thoughts?


----------



## Otto Pylot

anevard said:


> I hope this is not too OT.
> 
> We are noticing a tiny bit of "flutter" in our image, HTPC to JVC NX7. We are using a Ruipro 15m hybrid fibre 4K cable, for 4K not 8K.
> 
> It has been suggested that we try and add a 5v power injector to see if that will help. I have heard mention of adding the power injector to the source side, sink side, or both. Any thoughts?


The USB power inserter is intended for the Source side but you can use it on either end. Ruipro and some other cable mfrs included them as an option in case they were needed, which in most cases they are not. The idea is to offer a continuous and reliable 5V/500mA to the cable at the connector ends. The idea is that the current output, which is 50mA by specification, may be variable enough at the HDMI port that the cable chipsets are affected, which in turn will affect the data stream. When I tested the cables I used them with and without the power inserter and didn't see any difference as the cables just worked, but I didn't test 15m, which is fairly long but not impossible.

How is the cable installed because that can affect how well it works.


----------



## redswir1

For a few weeks now I've been having trouble with the HDMI connection between my PC and my TV. When looking up everything I needed, I never saw anything about active vs passive cables, and now I wonder if this is the source of my problem.

Specifically, I'm running this cable between an RTX 3070 and a TCL 6-series R646 (the 2021 Google TV model that added support for simultaneous 4K/120Hz). I'm running the cable through a wall so I got 10ft cables, and now I'm learning that's right at the limit for 48Gbps bandwidth. Ever since I set things up I've been getting intermittent HDMI signal flickers when using the PC. The signal will simply drop for a brief second and then return. Resetting the connection makes this somewhat less common for a while. I've tried three different HDMI cables--all of them 48Gbps with the certification QR code and everything--but I didn't see anything about them being "active" cables.

The same cables have no problems when I stream 4K 60Hz content on a Roku Ultra on the same TV. That same PC with the same GPU had no such problems on my previous 1080p TV. But now I'm trying to play PC games at 4K and 120Hz and that's the only situation where problems occur. 

Any advice before I run out and drop more money on a set of active cables? 10ft is already a really tight fit for my situation, so 12ft (4m) would probably be the sweet spot.


----------



## Otto Pylot

redswir1 said:


> For a few weeks now I've been having trouble with the HDMI connection between my PC and my TV. When looking up everything I needed, I never saw anything about active vs passive cables, and now I wonder if this is the source of my problem.
> 
> Specifically, I'm running this cable between an RTX 3070 and a TCL 6-series R646 (the 2021 Google TV model that added support for simultaneous 4K/120Hz). I'm running the cable through a wall so I got 10ft cables, and now I'm learning that's right at the limit for 48Gbps bandwidth. Ever since I set things up I've been getting intermittent HDMI signal flickers when using the PC. The signal will simply drop for a brief second and then return. Resetting the connection makes this somewhat less common for a while. I've tried three different HDMI cables--all of them 48Gbps with the certification QR code and everything--but I didn't see anything about them being "active" cables.
> 
> The same cables have no problems when I stream 4K 60Hz content on a Roku Ultra on the same TV. That same PC with the same GPU had no such problems on my previous 1080p TV. But now I'm trying to play PC games at 4K and 120Hz and that's the only situation where problems occur.
> 
> Any advice before I run out and drop more money on a set of active cables? 10ft is already a really tight fit for my situation, so 12ft (4m) would probably be the sweet spot.


That just looks like a garden variety passive cable, with slick marketing. No mention of certification or how their claims were validated. 

Cable installation can play a big part in a successful cable run. If your cable is in-wall, it's always best to use a flexible conduit if at all possible. You do not want any sharp bends (90º) in the cable run and you do not want to place any undue strain on the HDMI ports. At 12', a passive cable should work. There are some passive, certified UHS HDMI cables on my Short Cable List. Just keep in mind that a passive cable will be a little stiff due to copper wiring so pay careful attention to the installation process. Do not use wall plates, adapters, extenders, etc. This is especially important for active cables, which is what the hybrid fiber cables listed are. There are active, copper only cables but at 12', if you think you need an active cable, I'd recommend a hybrid fiber cable. Active cables, in general, are thinner than passive cables because they don't need the thicker wire gauge to handle the signal. They have special chipsets in the connectors ends that draw some power from the HDMI ports. 

I wouldn't worry too much about 48Gbps because there really isn't any source material that requires the full 48Gbps bandwidth. 40Gbps seems to be the maximum, so far.

You also may be pushing your system components past what they can reliably do. Most likely the tv.


----------



## redswir1

Otto Pylot said:


> That just looks like a garden variety passive cable, with slick marketing. No mention of certification or how their claims were validated.
> 
> Cable installation can play a big part in a successful cable run. If your cable is in-wall, it's always best to use a flexible conduit if at all possible. You do not want any sharp bends (90º) in the cable run and you do not want to place any undue strain on the HDMI ports. At 12', a passive cable should work. There are some passive, certified UHS HDMI cables on my Short Cable List. Just keep in mind that a passive cable will be a little stiff due to copper wiring so pay careful attention to the installation process. Do not use wall plates, adapters, extenders, etc. This is especially important for active cables, which is what the hybrid fiber cables listed are. There are active, copper only cables but at 12', if you think you need an active cable, I'd recommend a hybrid fiber cable. Active cables, in general, are thinner than passive cables because they don't need the thicker wire gauge to handle the signal. They have special chipsets in the connectors ends that draw some power from the HDMI ports.
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about 48Gbps because there really isn't any source material that requires the full 48Gbps bandwidth. 40Gbps seems to be the maximum, so far.
> 
> You also may be pushing your system components past what they can reliably do. Most likely the tv.


I've tried these cables both inside and outside the wall, and the experience was the same, so I don't think installation was the problem.

What's odd is that the drop-outs happen most often when I'm just on the desktop or browsing the web. They happen less often when I'm playing a game or watching a movie in 4K.


----------



## Otto Pylot

redswir1 said:


> I've tried these cables both inside and outside the wall, and the experience was the same, so I don't think installation was the problem.
> 
> What's odd is that the drop-outs happen most often when I'm just on the desktop or browsing the web. They happen less often when I'm playing a game or watching a movie in 4K.


The installation comment is just something you should be aware of because the issues with a too sharply bent cable can take time before it manifests itself. The same for the strain on the HDMI ports. Just file the info away for future use.

It could be the PC then or the card. Does the 3070 get hot during use? It's hard to tell. If you use an ATC certified cable (with the QR label) either a passive cable or an active cable, then that's about the best you can do for a cable. Certification is not a 100% guarantee that the cable will work with your particular equipment and setup but at least you know that the cable was tested and certified by HDMI.org using standardized procedures and testing equipment.


----------



## redswir1

Otto Pylot said:


> The installation comment is just something you should be aware of because the issues with a too sharply bent cable can take time before it manifests itself. The same for the strain on the HDMI ports. Just file the info away for future use.
> 
> It could be the PC then or the card. Does the 3070 get hot during use? It's hard to tell. If you use an ATC certified cable (with the QR label) either a passive cable or an active cable, then that's about the best you can do for a cable. Certification is not a 100% guarantee that the cable will work with your particular equipment and setup but at least you know that the cable was tested and certified by HDMI.org using standardized procedures and testing equipment.


I started experiencing these issues before I ran the cable through the wall. They cropped up as soon as I got that TV, but they only occur in the connection to that PC. I've tried it with different certified HDMI cables in different HDMI inputs and the problem is always the same. I also can't easily try the connection on another TV. Using an active cable is the only other thing I haven't tried yet.

I use MSI Afterburner to check the 3070's temperature, and they aren't out of the ordinary. Like I said earlier, the HDMI dropouts seem to occur most often during the tasks that would heat up the 3070 the least, like regular desktop use or web browsing. They occur markedly less often when playing games, which rings the 3070 to much higher (but still within norms) temperatures. My theory here is that those less-intensive tasks are when the PC is outputting the most frames per second, as movies are obviously 24Hz and modern games at 4K are less likely to maintain a constant 120fps.


----------



## humbland

Hi AVSers,
We are remodeling our HT for the first time in 10 years. We are moving from a 1080p world to the 4K universe. We have a long (50 ft) run from the equipment room to our upcoming 4K projector. We are trying to _future proof and install the best possible HDMI cable(s)_. In our older home, we are working with various building constraints (ie concrete). There is no way to install a conduit or plenum for future cable access. Sadly, we have to tear up walls and ceilings to install the cables...So, it's important to install the best possible "goof proof" cables. This thread is approaching 10 pages. Perhaps it's been addressed previously. If so, I apologize. I could use some direction and guidance.
Has anyone used this HDMI cable in a long run? If so, is it 100% reliable?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LZ2J9KS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2R7FDWADE9YT0&psc=1

In this case, due to the huge cost of the installation, the relative cost of the HDMI cables are of minimal concern. Having said that, is there anything better out there?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Ratman

All I can suggest is:
No such thing as "future proof" with HDMI interconnections. 
Test cable before permanent installation.
Plan to make cable changes in the future as best possible. Things (technology) change. Active cables will eventually fail and will need to be replaced.


----------



## Otto Pylot

humbland said:


> Hi AVSers,
> We are remodeling our HT for the first time in 10 years. We are moving from a 1080p world to the 4K universe. We have a long (50 ft) run from the equipment room to our upcoming 4K projector. We are trying to _future proof and install the best possible HDMI cable(s)_. In our older home, we are working with various building constraints (ie concrete). There is no way to install a conduit or plenum for future cable access. Sadly, we have to tear up walls and ceilings to install the cables...So, it's important to install the best possible "goof proof" cables. This thread is approaching 10 pages. Perhaps it's been addressed previously. If so, I apologize. I could use some direction and guidance.
> Has anyone used this HDMI cable in a long run? If so, is it 100% reliable?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LZ2J9KS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2R7FDWADE9YT0&psc=1
> 
> In this case, due to the huge cost of the installation, the relative cost of the HDMI cables are of minimal concern. Having said that, is there anything better out there?
> 
> Thanks in advance


The ONLY way to truly "future proof" your cabling is to use flexible, 1.5"-2.0" conduit, with pull strings. That way it is one, easier and safer to install and two, if you ever need to replace/upgrade your cabling it's relatively easy. You may also want to consider running solid copper core, CAT-6 cable (non-CCA/CCS) in case you ever want to extend an ethernet connection.

No cable mfr can offer a 100% reliability, regardless of their slick marketing or product descriptions. There are lots of factors involved in a successful cable run besides the cable. Length, cable type, devices connected, etc.

50' is certainly doable but does have challenges depending on what you want to push.

The most reliable connection is a single connection, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, extenders, etc in-between. For cable ingress and egress you can use brush wall plates or pass through wall plates. And, you want to make sure that there are no sharp, 90º bends in the cable or any undue strain on the HDMI ports.

A hybrid fiber cable would probably be what you'd want to use as they are thinner and a lot more flexible than copper-only cables. There are hybrid fiber cables listed on my cable list at the beginning of this post that have been used successfully by some of the AVS members here. Once you decide on a cable, you really need to lay it out on the floor and test it thoroughly prior to final installation to make sure it's going to meet your needs and expectations.

When you pull the cable, do not pull from the connector ends. Instead, pull from the body of the cable and just tape down the connector end so it doesn't bend back on itself during the pull or around a bend. It never hurts to be a bit overcautious when pulling a cable thru a conduit over a long distance.


----------



## DRC72

So I found this 8ft Vizio 2.1 HDMI cable for $14.88. Is this too good to be true? Do you think this cable will stand up to the more expensive cables with the same specs? And on the box it does say it certified. Your thoughts.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Do you think this cable will stand up to the more expensive cables with the same specs?


Yup.


----------



## humbland

Otto Pylot said:


> The ONLY way to truly "future proof" your cabling is to use flexible, 1.5"-2.0" conduit, with pull strings. That way it is one, easier and safer to install and two, if you ever need to replace/upgrade your cabling it's relatively easy. You may also want to consider running solid copper core, CAT-6 cable (non-CCA/CCS) in case you ever want to extend an ethernet connection.
> 
> No cable mfr can offer a 100% reliability, regardless of their slick marketing or product descriptions. There are lots of factors involved in a successful cable run besides the cable. Length, cable type, devices connected, etc.
> 
> 50' is certainly doable but does have challenges depending on what you want to push.
> 
> The most reliable connection is a single connection, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, extenders, etc in-between. For cable ingress and egress you can use brush wall plates or pass through wall plates. And, you want to make sure that there are no sharp, 90º bends in the cable or any undue strain on the HDMI ports.
> 
> A hybrid fiber cable would probably be what you'd want to use as they are thinner and a lot more flexible than copper-only cables. There are hybrid fiber cables listed on my cable list at the beginning of this post that have been used successfully by some of the AVS members here. Once you decide on a cable, you really need to lay it out on the floor and test it thoroughly prior to final installation to make sure it's going to meet your needs and expectations.
> 
> When you pull the cable, do not pull from the connector ends. Instead, pull from the body of the cable and just tape down the connector end so it doesn't bend back on itself during the pull or around a bend. It never hurts to be a bit overcautious when pulling a cable thru a conduit over a long distance.


Thanks Otto,
Sadly, conduit is not a viable option. We are working with what we have in place (built in the 60's) and there are accessibility and materials issues (ie concrete slab) that make putting in pipe very difficult and expensive (which is why we did not do it 10 years ago). My plan is to install two cables so that if one fails, we can have a back up). 
Back to the original question: I saw a Youtube review (Vincent) of the below referenced cable and wonder if anyone has used it?
*Certified 8K HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optical Cable, 10K Ultra High Speed HDMI phoossno Gen2 15m 50ft 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] *


----------



## RichB

Do any of these cable technologies affect the speed of HDMI negotiation delays?

- Rich


----------



## Otto Pylot

humbland said:


> Thanks Otto,
> Sadly, conduit is not a viable option. We are working with what we have in place (built in the 60's) and there are accessibility and materials issues (ie concrete slab) that make putting in pipe very difficult and expensive (which is why we did not do it 10 years ago). My plan is to install two cables so that if one fails, we can have a back up).
> Back to the original question: I saw a Youtube review (Vincent) of the below referenced cable and wonder if anyone has used it?
> *Certified 8K HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optical Cable, 10K Ultra High Speed HDMI phoossno Gen2 15m 50ft 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] *


If you read my Short Cable List at the beginning of this thread you'll see that Phoossno is one of the cables listed. I've tested them in my systems and they worked. But, at shorter lengths. I need to stress that no cable is 100% guaranteed to work reliably (over time) and even at all, with the connected devices and installation. Hence conduit if at all possible, which, in your case is not possible. The next best thing is to thoroughly test the cable prior to installation. And by testing I mean connect it and run your devices at what ever resolutions you want/need and see if that works to your satisfaction. Easy access, however that is achieved, is the key to fool proofing your cabling. Period.

Keep in mind that there isn't any current source material that uses the full 48Gbps bandwidth (40Gbps seems to be the limit now) so don't get too hung up that HDMI 2.1 option. The cable is just a data pipe so a lot of what you can successfully receive depends on the what the source HDMI chipsets can send and what the sink HDMI chipsets can receive.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> View attachment 3291371
> 
> So I found this 8ft Vizio 2.1 HDMI cable for $14.88. Is this too good to be true? Do you think this cable will stand up to the more expensive cables with the same specs? And on the box it does say it certified. Your thoughts.


If it is certified, and I'd scan the QR label to make sure (I don't trust anything Vizio 😉) then there's no reason to think that it won't work, especially at 8'. Certification is not a guarantee but it is a good place to start.


----------



## Otto Pylot

RichB said:


> Do any of these cable technologies affect the speed of HDMI negotiation delays?
> 
> - Rich


I'm not sure what you mean by negotiation delays. That is usually determined by the source/sink chipsets and distance. I've been using various mfrs of UHS HDMI cables for quite some time now on both of my HTS's and even at the short lengths (2m) there is a brief handshaking delay (maybe 3 seconds) when switching sources but that's all. Once the handshake is complete, the connection is solid and trouble-free.

As far as technologies, there's only two. Passive and active (copper only or hybrid fiber).


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> If it is certified, and I'd scan the QR label to make sure (I don't trust anything Vizio ) then there's no reason to think that it won't work, especially at 8'. Certification is not a guarantee but it is a good place to start.


Why do you not trust Vizio?


----------



## lawdogx

Otto Pylot said:


> As far as technologies, there's only two. Passive and active (copper only or hybrid fiber).


I'm not sure if it's been discussed elsewhere but I just read an announcement of "HDMI Cable Power":

HDMI Cable Powers active HDMI Cables 

I'm not sure if this is different from current active hybrid fiber cables, but the spec appears to be new (all the articles on it are from the last 24 hours). Some of the press seems to in indicate it will require new enabled devices to accommodate the new spec. Interesting times for connectivity ... and another example of why we should use conduit!


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Why do you not trust Vizio?








Official Retailers | VIZIO


Here’s the full list of online and in-store retailers to purchase VIZIO TVs and sound bars, including Walmart, Best Buy, Target, Costco, Sam’s Club, Amazon, and many more.




www.vizio.com





All known for "quality".


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> Official Retailers | VIZIO
> 
> 
> Here’s the full list of online and in-store retailers to purchase VIZIO TVs and sound bars, including Walmart, Best Buy, Target, Costco, Sam’s Club, Amazon, and many more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.vizio.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All known for "quality".


Oh I see. Well I plugged it in and it does work. Maybe I’m just lucky.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Oh I see. Well I plugged it in and it does work. Maybe I’m just lucky.


If it works and you're satisfied, enjoy.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> Why do you not trust Vizio?


Vizio has, or had, a long history of sub-quality tv's (having experienced two myself in years past). They used to be considered "throw away" tv's because once they developed issues, Vizio was more apt to replace the tv than attempt to fix it. Hopefully that has changed by now but I for one will never purchase another Vizio product. Others may disagree and that's fine.


----------



## Otto Pylot

lawdogx said:


> I'm not sure if it's been discussed elsewhere but I just read an announcement of "HDMI Cable Power":
> 
> HDMI Cable Powers active HDMI Cables
> 
> I'm not sure if this is different from current active hybrid fiber cables, but the spec appears to be new (all the articles on it are from the last 24 hours). Some of the press seems to in indicate it will require new enabled devices to accommodate the new spec. Interesting times for connectivity ... and another example of why we should use conduit!


That's for HDMI 2.1a, which is mentioned in my Cable Short List in the first post of this thread. I wouldn't worry about the 2.1a spec because it has to be adopted and implemented by the device mfrs and that probably won't happen for a long time, if ever. And it's not really clear if new cables will even be required. The 2.1a spec is an option, like HDMI with ethernet was years ago.

Carefully read the article. Current HDMI chipsets are spec'd to 5V/50mA. The new chipsets will have to be spec'd to 5V/300mA, which means new chipsets and it's a little vague as to whether an adapter will be needed or not.


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> Vizio has, or had, a long history of sub-quality tv's (having experienced two myself in years past). They used to be considered "throw away" tv's because once they developed issues, Vizio was more apt to replace the tv than attempt to fix it. Hopefully that has changed by now but I for one will never purchase another Vizio product. Others may disagree and that's fine.


I don’t have a Vizio TV I have an LG OLED. The only thing Vizio is the HDMI cable which goes between my Panasonic UB 9000 4K BD player and my LG TV.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> So I found this 8ft Vizio 2.1 HDMI cable for $14.88. Is this too good to be true? Do you think this cable will stand up to the more expensive cables with the same specs? And on the box it does say it certified. Your thoughts.





DRC72 said:


> I don’t have a Vizio TV I have an LG OLED. The only thing Vizio is the HDMI cable which goes between my Panasonic UB 9000 4K BD player and my LG TV.


You asked for opinions. Sorry they are not what you anticipated. 
Hopefully your cable will provide years of service.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> I don’t have a Vizio TV I have an LG OLED. The only thing Vizio is the HDMI cable which goes between my Panasonic UB 9000 4K BD player and my LG TV.


I have an LG OLED as well as a Samsung QLED. I use UHS certified cables from Ruipro and Zeskit on my two systems. If the cable you have works, that's fine. Stay with it. As long as you scan the QR label just to make sure it should work trouble free. I've been burned, as have many folks by Vizio. The cable that you have from Vizio is not made by Vizio. They just purchase it from a third party that sells UHS cables to various mfrs. Vizio is not in the cable mfr'ing business but for me, anything with their name on it is person non grata as far as I'm concerned. I prefer to purchase my cables from known cable mfrs.


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> You asked for opinions. Sorry they are not what you anticipated.
> Hopefully your cable will provide years of service.


Don’t take it the wrong way. I don’t have any problems with your opinions. I’m just letting you know what my set up was and that the cable was working out fine. That’s it.


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> I have an LG OLED as well as a Samsung QLED. I use UHS certified cables from Ruipro and Zeskit on my two systems. If the cable you have works, that's fine. Stay with it. As long as you scan the QR label just to make sure it should work trouble free. I've been burned, as have many folks by Vizio. The cable that you have from Vizio is not made by Vizio. They just purchase it from a third party that sells UHS cables to various mfrs. Vizio is not in the cable mfr'ing business but for me, anything with their name on it is person non grata as far as I'm concerned. I prefer to purchase my cables from known cable mfrs.


Didn’t realize Vizio had a lot of issues with their products. Will definitely be more careful when I purchase products from various manufacturers in the future. Can you recommend a QR app? The current QR app that I’m using has a hard time scanning the code.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> Didn’t realize Vizio had a lot of issues with their products. Will definitely be more careful when I purchase products from various manufacturers in the future. Can you recommend a QR app? The current QR app that I’m using has a hard time scanning the code.


I have an iPhone and iPad so I use the HDMI Certification app. There are lots of happy Vizio users but myself, and a lot of others are not in that crowd. As I said before, I prefer to purchase my cables (when they aren't given to me for testing 😉) from the mfr. That way, if I have issues, I can go directly to them.


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> I have an iPhone and iPad so I use the HDMI Certification app. There are lots of happy Vizio users but myself, and a lot of others are not in that crowd. As I said before, I prefer to purchase my cables (when they aren't given to me for testing ) from the mfr. That way, if I have issues, I can go directly to them.


Thanks for letting me know about the app. So I went ahead and scanned and it came up certified. So I think there’s a few issues here. But the thing that concerns me now is in the picture it says ultra high-speed HDMI cable. It doesn’t say ultra high speed 2.1 HDMI cable. Do you think that would be an issue? The part number on the box is XHC21-81G. Only says XHC21 on the congratulations screen. Not sure if all the information has got to be completely 100%? Plus the hologram in the picture does not match with the hologram information on the box the HDMI cable came in. Unless that was just there for show? The cable brand and cable length are both correct


----------



## zoiks66

I bought a few certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cables via Amazon and I’d like to share my experiences with them. First I should say that I’ve been using each of the cables for over a week, and they all work great. I tested each cable with my Xbox Series X console, and every cable passed for 4K120Hz gaming. I’ve included Amazon links for each cable.

1. 15m/49.2 ft Cable Matters 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cable


Amazon.com


This cable has a braided jacket and comes with the QR code for certification on the box as well as printed on a sticker attached to the cable. It is moderately thick but still has good flexibility. I used this cable for a long run from my receiver to TV, and it has worked great. I have an Xbox Series X video game console connected to my receiver, and this cable has no issues providing 4k120Hz gaming to my tv. I highly recommend this cable for long runs, due to its price, build quality, and flexibility.

2. 1m/3.3 ft, 2m/6.6 ft, and 3m/9.9 ft Cable Matters 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cables (3 pack of cables)








Amazon.com: [Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 9.8 ft / 3m with [email protected], [email protected] and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More : Electronics


Amazon.com: [Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 9.8 ft / 3m with [email protected], [email protected] and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More : Electronics



www.amazon.com




These cables are thinner than the 15m HDMI cable and have a normal smooth rubber jacket. I’m using these cables in each of the offered 3 lengths to connect devices to my receiver, including Xbox Series X and PlayStation 5 video game consoles. The cables have worked great with no issues with every device and provide 4k120Hz gaming. I also highly recommend these cables since they are well made while being low cost.

3. 7m/23 ft Zeskit Maya 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cable


Amazon.com


I‘m using this cable for a 20 ft run from my receiver to a 4k HDMI switch in a cabinet with older video game consoles, but I wanted to use a cable certified for 48 gbps in case I decide to move a current gen video game console into that cabinet. I purchased this cable since Cable Matters does not seem to offer a 48 gbps certified HDMI cable in this length. This Zeskit cable has a smooth rubber jacket and is CL3 rated. It is very thick and has very little flexibility. It has so little flexibility that I actually had trouble getting the cable to stay plugged into my receiver. It took some creative cable routing to get the cable to stay plugged in. I tested the cable with my Xbox Series X, and it does provide 4k120Hz gaming, but due to its lack of flexibility, I would recommend buying another cable if you don’t require the CL3 rating. If I can find another ultra high speed certified HDMI cable in this length, I’ll likely return this cable since I think it coming unplugged from my receiver will be an ongoing issue.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> Thanks for letting me know about the app. So I went ahead and scanned and it came up certified. So I think there’s a few issues here. But the thing that concerns me now is in the picture it says ultra high-speed HDMI cable. It doesn’t say ultra high speed 2.1 HDMI cable. Do you think that would be an issue? The part number on the box is XHC21-81G. Only says XHC21 on the congratulations screen. Not sure if all the information is got to be completely 100%? Plus the hologram in the picture does not match with the hologram information on the box the HDMI cable came in. Unless that was just there for show? The cable brand and cable length are both correct
> 
> View attachment 3291720


Ultra High Speed (UHS) HDMI cable is the official terminology used by HDMI.org to designate ATC cables that have been certified for the HDMI 2.1 option sets. Premium High Speed (PHS) HDMI cable is the official term for cables certified by an ATC for the HDMI 2.0 option sets. HDMI.org requested years ago that cable mfrs not use the HDMI version number only in describing their cables.

Product numbers mean nothing here as long as the product number on the package matches the scan. The first part of the product number is the product, the second part is the batch, so as long as the product matches, you're ok. Not every single cable is individually tested so the certification is done by product or batch testing. The cable is probably fine.

Most certified cables will work but every now and then a batch tested cable will fail. It happens to all mfrs. You need to look at what you want to push, how long your cable run is, and how it will be installed. If in-wall, and you feel you really need a fire rated cable (CL2/3) then keep in mind that those cables will be stiffer than an active cable (copper of hybrid fiber) due to the jacket requirements, so bend radius will be affected which may also translate to increase strain on the HDMI ports depending how much "service loop" you give your cables at each end.


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> Ultra High Speed (UHS) HDMI cable is the official terminology used by HDMI.org to designate ATC cables that have been certified for the HDMI 2.1 option sets. Premium High Speed (PHS) HDMI cable is the official term for cables certified by an ATC for the HDMI 2.0 option sets. HDMI.org requested years ago that cable mfrs not use the HDMI version number only in describing their cables.
> 
> Product numbers mean nothing here as long as the product number on the package matches the scan. The first part of the product number is the product, the second part is the batch, so as long as the product matches, you're ok. Not every single cable is individually tested so the certification is done by product or batch testing. The cable is probably fine.
> 
> Most certified cables will work but every now and then a batch tested cable will fail. It happens to all mfrs. You need to look at what you want to push, how long your cable run is, and how it will be installed. If in-wall, and you feel you really need a fire rated cable (CL2/3) then keep in mind that those cables will be stiffer than an active cable (copper of hybrid fiber) due to the jacket requirements, so bend radius will be affected which may also translate to increase strain on the HDMI ports depending how much "service loop" you give your cables at each end.


OK cool! So it looks like this cable is pretty much legit. I’m not installing it in the wall or anything like that it’s just going from my Blu-ray player to my LG TV. I did test it with a regular Blu-ray and everything seemed fine, I’ll test it with a 4K Blu-ray with Dolby Vision . I’m sure that will be fine as well. Quite possible some of the cables that you have in your set up we’re probably made by the same manufacturer that made this cable? Who knows?


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> OK cool! So it looks like this cable is pretty much legit. I’m not installing it in the wall or anything like that it’s just going from my Blu-ray player to my LG TV. I did test it with a regular Blu-ray and everything seemed fine, I’ll test it with a 4K Blu-ray with Dolby Vision . I’m sure that will be fine as well. Quite possible some of the cables that you have in your set up we’re probably made by the same manufacturer that made this cable? Who knows?


I don't know if the cables I'm using and the others that I tested have "off-brand" products or not. There are lots of Chinese cable resellers who will purchase certified cables and then sell them to other companies. As long as the cable has a verifiable QR label, you should be good to go.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> I’ll test it with a 4K Blu-ray with Dolby Vision . I’m sure that will be fine as well.


That's the "true" test to verify it meets the intended purpose. 
Let us know the results.


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> That's the "true" test to verify it meets the intended purpose.
> Let us know the results.


No issues with Dolby Vision! Came up as 4K/24p 12 Bit. Picture looks great. Thanks again everyone for all the help.


----------



## Ratman

Super.
As long as the cable meets/fulfills your expectations. That's all that matters. 
Thanks for the update.


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> Super.
> As long as the cable meets/fulfills your expectations. That's all that matters.
> Thanks for the update.


Yeah the cable seems to be pretty good. And it’s future proof being 48 Gbps. Although I doubt I’ll buy an 8K TV in the near future for a long time.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> Yeah the cable seems to be pretty good. And it’s future proof being 48 Gbps. Although I doubt I’ll buy an 8K TV in the near future for a long time.


As I've mentioned, I wouldn't be too concerned about 48Gbps bandwidth. It's going to be a long time before streaming/movies, etc are natively encoded for 8k or that the source requires the full 48Gbps bandwidth. By that time, you'll probably be replacing your components anyway (HDMI 3.0) for the new video requirements. In theory, UHS HDMI cables should be no problem but given how HDMI.org does things, that's no guarantee. That's why we drive the point home about having easy access (future proofing) to your cabling because you will be changing cable sometime in the future. Either because you need to keep up with the new standards or the chipsets in the active cables (copper-only or hybrid fiber) fail over time. "Future Proofing" is easy cable access.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Yeah the cable seems to be pretty good. And it’s future proof being 48 Gbps. Although I doubt I’ll buy an 8K TV in the near future for a long time.


Well... look at the brighter side of "future proof". When your current TV fails, 16k TV's will be on the market and it will require a Super-Dooper Ludicrous Speed 96Gb HDMI cable or maybe you may have to use a pair of 48Gb cables and have to run new a new cable anyway. Possibilities could be endless in the future. 

Just joking. Enjoy.


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> Well... look at the brighter side of "future proof". When your current TV fails, 16k TV's will be on the market and it will require a Super-Dooper Ludicrous Speed 96Gb HDMI cable or maybe you may have to use a pair of 48Gb cables and have to run new a new cable anyway. Possibilities could be endless in the future.
> 
> Just joking. Enjoy.


Either that or I might be dead by then who knows.


----------



## Qjedlic

zoiks66 said:


> I bought a few certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cables via Amazon and I’d like to share my experiences with them. First I should say that I’ve been using each of the cables for over a week, and they all work great. I tested each cable with my Xbox Series X console, and every cable passed for 4K120Hz gaming. I’ve included Amazon links for each cable.
> 
> 1. 15m/49.2 ft Cable Matters 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cable
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> This cable has a braided jacket and comes with the QR code for certification on the box as well as printed on a sticker attached to the cable. It is moderately thick but still has good flexibility. I used this cable for a long run from my receiver to TV, and it has worked great. I have an Xbox Series X video game console connected to my receiver, and this cable has no issues providing 4k120Hz gaming to my tv. I highly recommend this cable for long runs, due to its price, build quality, and flexibility.
> 
> 2. 1m/3.3 ft, 2m/6.6 ft, and 3m/9.9 ft Cable Matters 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cables (3 pack of cables)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: [Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 9.8 ft / 3m with [email protected], [email protected] and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: [Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 9.8 ft / 3m with [email protected], [email protected] and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These cables are thinner than the 15m HDMI cable and have a normal smooth rubber jacket. I’m using these cables in each of the offered 3 lengths to connect devices to my receiver, including Xbox Series X and PlayStation 5 video game consoles. The cables have worked great with no issues with every device and provide 4k120Hz gaming. I also highly recommend these cables since they are well made while being low cost.
> 
> 3. 7m/23 ft Zeskit Maya 48 Gbps Ultra High Speed Certified HDMI Cable
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> I‘m using this cable for a 20 ft run from my receiver to a 4k HDMI switch in a cabinet with older video game consoles, but I wanted to use a cable certified for 48 gbps in case I decide to move a current gen video game console into that cabinet. I purchased this cable since Cable Matters does not seem to offer a 48 gbps certified HDMI cable in this length. This Zeskit cable has a smooth rubber jacket and is CL3 rated. It is very thick and has very little flexibility. It has so little flexibility that I actually had trouble getting the cable to stay plugged into my receiver. It took some creative cable routing to get the cable to stay plugged in. I tested the cable with my Xbox Series X, and it does provide 4k120Hz gaming, but due to its lack of flexibility, I would recommend buying another cable if you don’t require the CL3 rating. If I can find another ultra high speed certified HDMI cable in this length, I’ll likely return this cable since I think it coming unplugged from my receiver will be an ongoing issue.


 Is eARC working for you on that 15m cable?


----------



## zoiks66

Qjedlic said:


> Is eARC working for you on that 15m cable?


It worked, but my LG tv and Integra receiver didn’t get along well. I had to keep manually changing the tv setting for audio output from the TV’s speakers to eARC every few times I powered on the tv and receiver, so I ended up connecting the tv to the receiver with a toslink cable. I don’t use the TV’s OS and apps anyway, as the tv’s OS is very sluggish compared to the NVidia ShieldTV I use.


----------



## Qjedlic

zoiks66 said:


> It worked, but my LG tv and Integra receiver didn’t get along well. I had to keep manually changing the tv setting for audio output from the TV’s speakers to eARC every few times I powered on the tv and receiver, so I ended up connecting the tv to the receiver with a toslink cable. I don’t use the TV’s OS and apps anyway, as the tv’s OS is very sluggish compared to the NVidia ShieldTV I use.


Ok. Thanks for that.


----------



## DRC72

What are your thoughts on GE cables?


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> View attachment 3295167
> 
> What are thoughts on GE cables?


If the cable's QR label checks out then you should be good to go. Keep in mind that passive cables will be a bit thicker and stuffer due to the copper wire requirements to meet spec so plan your installation so that you don't have any sharp, 90º bends which may result in undue strain on the HDMI ports. GE doesn't make their own cables.


----------



## Tanquen

DRC72 said:


> Yeah the cable seems to be pretty good. And it’s future proof being 48 Gbps. Although I doubt I’ll buy an 8K TV in the near future for a long time.


Yeah, there is no reason not to future proof when it make sense to you to do so. Folks just need to share good info and you do your own research. I had a 25' (I think) Monoprice for almost ten years and it worked with 4k 24hz for movies and all I really needed. I only replaced them for HDMI 2.1 48Gbps cables so I can do 4k, 120Hz, 10-bit, 4:4:4 chroma gaming with the RTX3080 in the PC. The PC will let me set it to 12-bit color that would push it to closer to 48Gbps but I don't think any game engine can use it, even at 10-bit I still color banding in games. Then you need a display that can use 12-bit and not seen one yet and I do think I'd be able to see the color difference between 10 and 12-bit. When you go from 8-bit blu-rays to 4k blu-rays with 10-bit you can find some seen with color banding in the older blu-rays. If you are doing a difficult run and the latest cable is not that much more and you could see getting a new display or game console I'd recommend getting an HDMI 2.1 cable. 

Glad you've got a working cable. 


DRC72 said:


> What are your thoughts on GE cables?


The certification don't matter and at that length most cables will work. I'm sure many come out of the same factories. All you can do is look for reviews by folks that have them or try them out from a place with good returns and then test with the max bandwidth you'll ever use and see how that goes. I have a number of old short (3-5') HDMI cable that work well with HDMI 2.1 40-48Gbps stuff. The longest I have that is not fiber and works well is 16'.


----------



## Ratman

Tanquen said:


> Yeah, there is no reason not to future proof when it make sense to you to do so. Folks just need to share good info and you do your own research


Unless it doesn't work when you need it "in the future" when it seemed in the past that it made sense. 
Share and hope for the best.


----------



## DRC72

Tanquen said:


> Yeah, there is no reason not to future proof when it make sense to you to do so. Folks just need to share good info and you do your own research. I had a 25' (I think) Monoprice for almost ten years and it worked with 4k 24hz for movies and all I really needed. I only replaced them for HDMI 2.1 48Gbps cables so I can do 4k, 120Hz, 10-bit, 4:4:4 chroma gaming with the RTX3080 in the PC. The PC will let me set it to 12-bit color that would push it to closer to 48Gbps but I don't think any game engine can use it, even at 10-bit I still color banding in games. Then you need a display that can use 12-bit and not seen one yet and I do think I'd be able to see the color difference between 10 and 12-bit. When you go from 8-bit blu-rays to 4k blu-rays with 10-bit you can find some seen with color banding in the older blu-rays. If you are doing a difficult run and the latest cable is not that much more and you could see getting a new display or game console I'd recommend getting an HDMI 2.1 cable.
> 
> Glad you've got a working cable.
> 
> 
> The certification don't matter and at that length most cables will work. I'm sure many come out of the same factories. All you can do is look for reviews by folks that have them or try them out from a place with good returns and then test with the max bandwidth you'll ever use and see how that goes. I have a number of old short (3-5') HDMI cable that work well with HDMI 2.1 40-48Gbps stuff. The longest I have that is not fiber and works well is 16'.


Good info! Sounds like I really don’t need 2.1 cable necessarily. But if I’m going to get new cables it might as well be a 2.1.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Good info! Sounds like I really don’t need 2.1 cable necessarily. But if I’m going to get new cables it might as well be a 2.1.


Hey, when you have a "lifetime warranty", you can't go wrong. Right?


----------



## Tanquen

DRC72 said:


> Good info! Sounds like I really don’t need 2.1 cable necessarily. But if I’m going to get new cables it might as well be a 2.1.


That would be my vote. If they're more expensive, only you can decide if you'd rather have a higher spec device later on that has some features that you may want. It's best to know what's out there and decide for yourself. If you're never going to use that higher end feature, then stay with the least expensive device that gives you what you. Even if you end up using them somewhere else later on you've got an HDMI 2.1 cable laying around and not another older cable. And if you got one from known working manufacturer, you should be good to go. Without fully testing any cable. There's still a chance that when you go to use full bandwidth it might not work. But there are definitely active cables that are having issues with that and some that are not.

If you have any questions just let me know. Let me know how it goes for you.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> Good info! Sounds like I really don’t need 2.1 cable necessarily. But if I’m going to get new cables it might as well be a 2.1.


If you have any questions just let _us_ know. Let _us_ know how it goes for you.


----------



## DRC72

Tanquen said:


> That would be my vote. If they're more expensive, only you can decide if you'd rather have a higher spec device later on that has some features that you may want. It's best to know what's out there and decide for yourself. If you're never going to use that higher end feature, then stay with the least expensive device that gives you what you. Even if you end up using them somewhere else later on you've got an HDMI 2.1 cable laying around and not another older cable. And if you got one from known working manufacturer, you should be good to go. Without fully testing any cable. There's still a chance that when you go to use full bandwidth it might not work. But there are definitely active cables that are having issues with that and some that are not.
> 
> If you have any questions just let me know. Let me know how it goes for you.


So as far as the internals? What’s the difference between a 2.0 cable and 2.1 cable? Does a 2.1 cable have thicker gauge copper, and more of a twist? And do standard HDMI cables have no twist at all?


----------



## Tanquen

DRC72 said:


> So as far as the internals? What’s the difference between a 2.0 cable and 2.1 cable? Does a 2.1 cable have thicker gauge copper, and more of a twist? And do standard HDMI cables have no twist at all?


Not sure about the twist but it's the same number of connections. And they will use a lower gauge or thicker cable for longer runs. My old 25 ft monoprice cable was huge, difficult bend or place, that was just for HDMI 2.0. If it could carry the signal that same cable would work, but there's just too much signal loss at that distance, even with that thicker cable to do the higher bandwidth needed for HDMI 2.1 Almost everything is the same for HDMI 2.1 versus 2.0 cables, but most of them are going to be shorter. That's why there were a lot of really short HDMI 2.1 cables at first cuz they didn't really need to change anything. But if it's only like 3-5ft and you have a decent quality cable, you're good. I do have a 16 ft HDMI 2.1 non-active cable. But if you want longer than that you really need to look at an active fiber cable. I have the cable matters HDMI 2.1 cable and they were the first ones that actually worked like they said they would when I went through a bunch of them over a year ago now, I guess. They've been rock solid so far and I'm using them at max or very close to max bandwidth with the gaming PC.

Keep in touch and let me know how it goes.


----------



## DRC72

Tanquen said:


> Not sure about the twist but it's the same number of connections. And they will use a lower gauge or thicker cable for longer runs. My old 25 ft monoprice cable was huge, difficult bend or place, that was just for HDMI 2.0. If it could carry the signal that same cable would work, but there's just too much signal loss at that distance, even with that thicker cable to do the higher bandwidth needed for HDMI 2.1 Almost everything is the same for HDMI 2.1 versus 2.0 cables, but most of them are going to be shorter. That's why there were a lot of really short HDMI 2.1 cables at first cuz they didn't really need to change anything. But if it's only like 3-5ft and you have a decent quality cable, you're good. I do have a 16 ft HDMI 2.1 non-active cable. But if you want longer than that you really need to look at an active fiber cable. I have the cable matters HDMI 2.1 cable and they were the first ones that actually worked like they said they would when I went through a bunch of them over a year ago now, I guess. They've been rock solid so far and I'm using them at max or very close to max bandwidth with the gaming PC.
> 
> Keep in touch and let me know how it goes.


Will do, thanks for your help.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> So as far as the internals? What’s the difference between a 2.0 cable and 2.1 cable? Does a 2.1 cable have thicker gauge copper, and more of a twist? And do standard HDMI cables have no twist at all?


The cables for HDMI 2.0 and HDMI 2.1 are very similar in structure.

There are some cables for HDMI 2.0 that can pass through some HDMI 2.1 options, but this does not mean that the two cables are the same, nor does it mean the cables for HDMI 2.0 can be operated stably all of the time. The difference
between the two cables is very big in terms of performance requirements. 

The design accuracy for the basic impedance of cables for the HDMI 2.0 options are about 50% lower than the cables for the HDMI 2.1 options. For differential insertion loss, the standard for HDMI 2.1 is 18 times higher than HDMI 2.0.

In order to meet these requirements, cables for the HDMI 2.1 options need better materials, more advanced processing technology (for active cables) and better cable design, which is difficult to determine from just cable appearance alone.


----------



## Ratman

DRC72 said:


> So as far as the internals? What’s the difference between a 2.0 cable and 2.1 cable? Does a 2.1 cable have thicker gauge copper, and more of a twist? And do standard HDMI cables have no twist at all?


This is the cable "types". There are no HDMI cables that are "version" specific nor are the marketers supposed to advertise that point.






HDMI Cables - Different Cable Types


HDMI cable overview with the different HDMI cable types, their port capabilities, and how to tell the HDMI connector types apart. HDMI 2.1a




www.hdmi.org





Keep in touch and let _us_ know how it goes.


----------



## DRC72

Otto Pylot said:


> The cables for HDMI 2.0 and HDMI 2.1 are very similar in structure.
> 
> There are some cables for HDMI 2.0 that can pass through some HDMI 2.1 options, but this does not mean that the two cables are the same, nor does it mean the cables for HDMI 2.0 can be operated stably all of the time. The difference
> between the two cables is very big in terms of performance requirements.
> 
> The design accuracy for the basic impedance of cables for the HDMI 2.0 options are about 50% lower than the cables for the HDMI 2.1 options. For differential insertion loss, the standard for HDMI 2.1 is 18 times higher than HDMI 2.0.
> 
> In order to meet these requirements, cables for the HDMI 2.1 options need better materials, more advanced processing technology (for active cables) and better cable design, which is difficult to determine from just cable appearance alone.


True and you really can’t tell a difference externally between 2.0 and a 2.1 cables. Is it possible for a standard 2.0 cable to carry 48Gbps of data? Or would that just be a fluke? Or just hit or miss?


----------



## DRC72

Ratman said:


> This is the cable "types". There are no HDMI cables that are "version" specific nor are the marketers supposed to advertise that point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Cables - Different Cable Types
> 
> 
> HDMI cable overview with the different HDMI cable types, their port capabilities, and how to tell the HDMI connector types apart. HDMI 2.1a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdmi.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in touch and let _us_ know how it goes.


Good info thank you.


----------



## Otto Pylot

DRC72 said:


> True and you really can’t tell a difference externally between 2.0 and a 2.1 cables. Is it possible for a standard 2.0 cable to carry 48Gbps of data? Or would that just be a fluke? Or just hit or miss?


I have not heard of a certified Premium High Speed HDMI cable (HDMI 2.0 option sets) being able to successfully transmit data in the 40Gbps to 48Gbps bandwidth but there is no real way to test that without source material that requires the full 48Gbps bandwidth. All you could really do is test your current devices at whatever maximum they are capable of and see what happens. Anything is possible in the convoluted world of HDMI.

Given that HDMI.org has basically said that the HDMI 2.0 specs are "dead", and that if a cable can meet the EMI specs for HDMI 2.1, it can be called an UHS HDMI cable (which has 48Gbps as part of its spec), even if the cable was originally sold as HDMI 2.0 certified or capable. However, there is no way on the consumer side to know if their new, UHS HDMI cables started out as PHS HDMI cable. Bottom line, if it works then that's all that matters. Distance in Enemy No. 1 for successful HDMI runs.


----------



## Tanquen

DRC72 said:


> True and you really can’t tell a difference externally between 2.0 and a 2.1 cables. Is it possible for a standard 2.0 cable to carry 48Gbps of data? Or would that just be a fluke? Or just hit or miss?


Yes, if you have an older short HDMI 2.0 cable, it's very possible it could carry the higher bandwidth that HDMI 2.1 uses. I have some old short cables that work fine. That's why a lot of the original HDMI 2.1 cables were only available in shorter lengths because they didn't have to do anything to get a working HDMI 2.1 cable at 3 to 5 ft. But at longer lengths it's unlikely. It's hard to tell exactly how long a cable could be. You would just have to try it if you had one and if it worked you could use it. If it didn't work, you'd have to look at purchasing a cable and then look for ones that are specifically meant to support the HDMI 2.1 bandwidth. If it was an active HDMI 2.0 cable, it's pretty unlikely that it'll support 2.1. The transceivers are pretty specific about frequencies there looking to receive.


----------



## Otto Pylot

As has already been stated, if you have cables designed for the HDMI 2.0 option sets (there are no "HDMI 2.0" cables) it is _possible_ at shorter lengths (<10'?) but there are no definitive lengths where a cable designed for HDMI 2.0 options will work reliably for the HDMI 2.1 options sets. All you can do is try.


----------



## flyers10

I see Monoprice has a couple 8k HDMI models in like 3, 6, & 10 ft that they say are certified but aren't listed in the first post. Are the really certified cables?


----------



## Otto Pylot

flyers10 said:


> I see Monoprice has a couple 8k HDMI models in like 3, 6, & 10 ft that they say are certified but aren't listed in the first post. Are the really certified cables?


If you read my post, I specifically left out resellers of cables, of which Monoprice is one, and just focused on the mfr.'s of cables. In theory, if the cable comes in a package with the QR label on the outside, and you verify the QR label by scanning it, they are ATC certified cables. All Monoprice does is purchase the cables in bulk and slaps their logo on it. However, Monoprice is dependent upon the accuracy of whomever they purchase in bulk from so it pays to scan the QR label.


----------



## flyers10

Otto Pylot said:


> If you read my post, I specifically left out resellers of cables, of which Monoprice is one, and just focused on the mfr.'s of cables. In theory, if the cable comes in a package with the QR label on the outside, and you verify the QR label by scanning it, they are ATC certified cables. All Monoprice does is purchase the cables in bulk and slaps their logo on it. However, Monoprice is dependent upon the accuracy of whomever they purchase in bulk from so it pays to scan the QR label.


Thanks! Wasn't there something about in some scenarios a 6ft performed better than a 3ft length?


----------



## Otto Pylot

flyers10 said:


> Thanks! Wasn't there something about in some scenarios a 6ft performed better than a 3ft length?


For passive cables, no. At least not in my experience. I've even tested active cables at those lengths, which is a huge overkill, and expensive, and didn't see any difference in performance. Generally speaking, if your cable run is under 16', and you can easily connect your devices with no bends in the cable or strain on the HDMI ports, then a certified, passive UHS HDMI cable is your best bet.


----------



## Tanquen

flyers10 said:


> I see Monoprice has a couple 8k HDMI models in like 3, 6, & 10 ft that they say are certified but aren't listed in the first post. Are the really certified cables?


Cable's under 10 ft of decent quality should work. Certification and a little logo deal are nice but it only matters if the cables were constructed correctly, consistently. Monoprice does a fairly good job. I had a 25 ft cable for almost 10 years that did HDMI 2.0 just fine. Basically no cable manufacturer has their own facility. They're just buying cables made by somebody else, hopefully, reliably to their specifications.

Just look for reviews of people that actually bought and used the cable and try to purchase from some place that has easy returns if it doesn't work.

Some companies will even try to sell you at 3 ft active fiber cable but you just don't need it. At 3 to 5 ft, just about any well made cable for HDMI 2.0 will work at 2.1 so bandwidth. At 5 to 10 ft you need to be more careful with the cable and 10 and 20 and beyond is where you really start to need to look at active cables.


----------



## Tanquen

flyers10 said:


> Thanks! Wasn't there something about in some scenarios a 6ft performed better than a 3ft length?


Active or not, there's really no reason a longer cable would perform better. For a non-active cable, the shorter the better , within reason. At the current max bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 there's not going to be a lot of difference between a 5-ft cable and a 1 ft cable. The one foot should have less signal loss but the 5 ft should still be able to do it fine.


----------



## Otto Pylot

@flyers10 A little clarification. There are quite a few cable mfrs who in fact do build their own cables from components sourced elsewhere, and if a cable is built wrong or with sub-standard components, it won't pass ATC or DPL certification, which are very rigorous for the HDMI 2.0/2.1 option sets. Certification is not necessary, and is not a guarantee of compatibility, but it does give the consumer some confidence that the cable was tested under standardized testing protocols and testing equipment, regardless of the mfr. Resellers do in fact purchase their cables in bulk from someone else and just put their own logos on it, but, as I said, if you scan the QR label and it matches, you should ok.


----------



## sofakng

I've just purchased an RUIPRO cable from Amazon (8K, 10M) and it's labeled as GEN 3/C but it doesn't have the HDMI certification sticker.

Are you sure it's been certified?


----------



## Otto Pylot

sofakng said:


> I've just purchased an RUIPRO cable from Amazon (8K, 10M) and it's labeled as GEN 3/C but it doesn't have the HDMI certification sticker.
> 
> Are you sure it's been certified?


The product code for the UHS certified Ruipro cable is: SNAOC21V101A_15UHS (where _15UHS refers to 15m length). If there is no QR label on the packaging then it is not ATC certified. Amazon controls the inventory once products hit their shelves. So either someone grabbed the wrong cable, Amazon's product description is wrong, or they are trying to get rid of older inventory. Product code SNAOC21V101A_xx (where _xx denotes the length) is the Gen 3/C cable that has been tested in-house for the HDMI 2.1 option sets but is not ATC certified. Those cables will come in either teal or black (black being the CL2 rated cables).


----------



## i_max2k2

Hello,

I’m trying to find a 10m Certified CL2/3 cable, the one i have found on Amazon from Rupiro is not certified, the black cabel is that the one you’re mentioning above? this is the part number for that cable SN21V8KHDMI-AOC_UHS_UL

i’m wondering if a non cl2 rated cable is okay to be run though dry wall, I do plan on using a conduit.


----------



## Otto Pylot

i_max2k2 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I’m trying to find a 10m Certified CL2/3 cable, the one i have found on Amazon from Rupiro is not certified, the black cabel is that the one you’re mentioning above? this is the part number for that cable SN21V8KHDMI-AOC_UHS_UL
> 
> i’m wondering if a non cl2 rated cable is okay to be run though dry wall, I do plan on using a conduit.


Finding long, ATC certified cables with the CL2 or 3 fire rating is difficult. One reason is that it's costly for the mfr. They not only have to pay for CL certification as well as the ATC certification, the cable jacket has to meet the CL requirements as well so they are built differently. I've never bothered with CL-rated cables, because they are just LV, and just ran them in a conduit. They don't offer any better performance. CL-rated cables for audio/visual LV wiring just passes the "vertical tray flame test" which means they don't normally spread flames more than 8'. For HV wiring, CL2 is rated for 150v and CL3 is rated for 300v.


----------



## i_max2k2

Otto Pylot said:


> Finding long, ATC certified cables with the CL2 or 3 fire rating is difficult. One reason is that it's costly for the mfr. They not only have to pay for CL certification as well as the ATC certification, the cable jacket has to meet the CL requirements as well so they are built differently. I've never bothered with CL-rated cables, because they are just LV, and just ran them in a conduit. They don't offer any better performance. CL-rated cables for audio/visual LV wiring just passes the "vertical tray flame test" which means they don't normally spread flames more than 8'. For HV wiring, CL2 is rated for 150v and CL3 is rated for 300v.


Thank you, I got couple of the 12m cables on prime day, decent pricing i think. Will test when new tv arrives (83 C1), excited about that.


----------



## Otto Pylot

i_max2k2 said:


> Thank you, I got couple of the 12m cables on prime day, decent pricing i think. Will test when new tv arrives (83 C1), excited about that.


Let us know how it goes. Just be mindful of the bend radius (no sharp, 90º bends) and don't pull the cables from the connector ends. Pull from the cable body and just attach the connector end to keep it from bending backward if you have corners to go around. And TEST TEST TEST the cables prior to final installation.


----------



## i_max2k2

Otto Pylot said:


> Let us know how it goes. Just be mindful of the bend radius (no sharp, 90º bends) and don't pull the cables from the connector ends. Pull from the cable body and just attach the connector end to keep it from bending backward if you have corners to go around. And TEST TEST TEST the cables prior to final installation.


Agreed, I baby that stuff, I’ll confirm the results, have a PS5 + a PC with a high end card, will post updates in some!


----------



## Otto Pylot

i_max2k2 said:


> Agreed, I baby that stuff, I’ll confirm the results, have a PS5 + a PC with a high end card, will post updates in some!


The only way to test the cables is to just push what ever you want and see what you get. Some cards can have issues with hybrid fiber cables so just push to the max and see what happens.


----------



## Tanquen

i_max2k2 said:


> Agreed, I baby that stuff, I’ll confirm the results, have a PS5 + a PC with a high end card, will post updates in some!


Just max it out to the highest bandwith you can. Something like 4K, 120 Hertz, 10 bit color and 444 chroma if you have the display that supports it. None of the cards have issues with certain cables cables. There's just some cables that are faulty and had various issues. If a cable works, it works. The cable doesn't know anything about the standards, the device is on either end, or the data that's being passed through it, it's just a data cable. A lot of manufacturers labeled cables as HDMI 2.1 or 8K or whatever and they were not. Some just used the same old hardware and tried to push it, fingers crossed it would work and they sometimes or all the time depending on the cable, didn't. Things changed when transceivers/new hardware that actually worked consistently at max bandwidth came out. After trying a bunch of different cables, the Cable Matters HDMI 2.1 cables were the first ones that I tried that actually worked at full bandwidth for HDMI 2.1. Just try to get a good quality cable as they can last many years, not just one or two. I had a 25 ft mono price cable that lasted almost 10 years until I wanted to games at 4k 120 Hertz. If you've got one that works well. It'll work well for a long time. Cables don't fix bad devices and they don't need to tweak them to work with certain hardware. Some manufacturers make bad cables that have random issues, and leave them out there for sale and tell tales of bad unknown HDMI hardware and sometimes even own up and say their cables aren't stable. But this new version should be more stable.


----------



## Ngerstman1

Can I assume that for short hdmi cable runs of less than 20 feet, any respected budget cable, like Monoprice will do, assuming it meets the current specifications? It seems to me that as long as the cable integrity and termination are done properly, the digital data could care less about all the hype and marketing nonsense. Not quite the same as transmitting analog data where cable construction can make a meaningful sonic difference. Do people here share the value brands that have been mostly reliable, or is this forum mostly hijacked by companies marketing their overpriced products? Thanks. Regards. Ned.


----------



## Ratman

Ngerstman1 said:


> Can I assume that for short hdmi cable runs of less than 20 feet, any respected budget cable, like Monoprice will do, assuming it meets the current specifications?


It can. 



Ngerstman1 said:


> Do people here share the value brands that have been mostly reliable, or is this forum mostly hijacked by companies marketing their overpriced products?


The former.


----------



## Ngerstman1

Ratman said:


> It can.
> 
> 
> The former.


Thanks. Is there a thread here somewhere that has a list of sanely priced hdmi cables that are reliably constructed? Or is it just Monoprice and Amazon? Are there brands to avoid that are shared here?


----------



## Ratman

Take advice as listed in the 1st post.
What is your non-insane price target?
I can't recall any HDMI threads that specifically list products/manufacturers to avoid.

What are the lengths you seek (3', 6', 10' 12' 16')?
What are the speed/bandwidth/resolutions that you need?


----------



## Ngerstman1

I bought a pack of Monoprice cables, 6 footers for new Sony a80k OLED. They are 2.1 and seem to spec fit the bill. I’ve used them before with success. The hdmi cable itself no doubt come in giant spools, all the same. After that it comes down to the shielding and termination, all an automated process no doubt. Anyone who feels the need to spend more is probably foolish. But who am I to say, an old audiophile who has MIT speaker cables, talk about gullible! Thanks again.


----------



## sofakng

I'd recommend that RUIPRO be removed from the recommended cables list.

I've just tested their GEN3 8K (10m) cable and it doesn't follow +5V specification by using too much power: How can I measure HDMI fiber cable power consumption...

The 10 meter cable is also not HDMI certified (confirmed by RUIPRO via e-mail).

However, the phoossno cable I've tested is perfect. It only pulls 45mA and passed my 40 Gbps test ([email protected], RGB, 10 bit, HDR) with no SCDC/PHY errors for over an hour.

Besides that, the company (phoossno) provided fantastic customer service. They responded extremely fast to my questions and went above-and-beyond trying to help me!


----------



## Ratman

Here we go...


----------



## Ratman

Ngerstman1 said:


> But who am I to say, an old audiophile who has MIT speaker cables, talk about gullible!


LOL! I returned them after the 2 week break-in recommendation for a full refund from the retailer. 
No better than 14AWG plain old speaker wire.


----------



## Ngerstman1

Ratman said:


> LOL! I returned them after the 2 week break-in recommendation for a full refund from the retailer.
> No better than 14AWG plain old speaker wire.


You mean your life didn't change, all that music coming through the cable hose enabling you to hear all the way into David Bowie's lungs? The birds weren't singing and chirping?


----------



## Ratman

Nah....
The $350+ didn't justify the sonic improvement. No veils were lifted (except those attempted to cover my eyes along with the tin-foil hat I wore during the "sales pitch".) 🤣


----------



## Ngerstman1

The birds didn’t sing because you only tried the $350+ cables not $3,500+ cables. Then there would have been a Flock of Seagulls.


----------



## Otto Pylot

@sofakng Did you purchase the Ruipro cable from Amazon by any chance? The cable could be one of the earlier versions of their cable that did in fact have issues. Amazon controls the inventory and they will pull the oldest cables they have in inventory when you order from them. That doesn't get Ruipro off of the hook for having a bad cable (any cable can and does have a bad cable from time to time) but once their cables, or any cable mfr's products go into Amazon inventory, Amazon controls what is sent to the customer. I will remove the certification notice from the list. That was an oversight on my part.

That's the whole point of my HDMI List. It's not a recommendation for any one specific cable but just a list for consumers to see what is available and at what lengths for cables that have worked for AVS members. I've used Phoossno and Ruipro in the past and they both performed as expected. I have currently using Zeskit on one system and the Ruipro on another system.


----------



## Ratman

IMHO... there is an on-going thread from @sofakng . Folks can read and make a determination before purchase.
Hopefully this helpful thread won't turn into a "don't use this HDMI cable because I have/had/found a problem".


----------



## gbynum

Ngerstman1 said:


> Or is it just Monoprice and Amazon?


Recognize that neither Monoprice nor Amazon make cables.


----------



## Ngerstman1

gbynum said:


> Recognize that neither Monoprice nor Amazon make cables.


I assure you there are a very small handful of metallurgical companies in the entire world that pump out miles of hdmi cable every day, none that you’ve ever heard of. So none of the companies that sell hdmi cables actually makes the cable. Marketing companies then go out, buy some cable and hire contract manufacturers to produce a final product, almost all with the same basic hdmi cable which is then wrapped in various insulation, much of it for aesthetics purposes and terminate it with the hdmi connectors. There are no doubt bad actors out there making inferior product with equipment that is old and not well maintained that could result in poor terminations, otherwise Most of it is marketing. A good volume seller with good quality control will make as good a product as the stuff sold, marketed and perhaps even assembled by much higher priced companies/sellers.


----------



## Ratman

Wire is manufactured.
Cables are produced with the wire.
Cables are obtained by a company and _perhaps_ add a connector themselves.
Prices are based on marketing techniques.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Ngerstman1 said:


> I assure you there are a very small handful of metallurgical companies in the entire world that pump out miles of hdmi cable every day, none that you’ve ever heard of. So none of the companies that sell hdmi cables actually makes the cable. Marketing companies then go out, buy some cable and hire contract manufacturers to produce a final product, almost all with the same basic hdmi cable which is then wrapped in various insulation, much of it for aesthetics purposes and terminate it with the hdmi connectors. There are no doubt bad actors out there making inferior product with equipment that is old and not well maintained that could result in poor terminations, otherwise Most of it is marketing. A good volume seller with good quality control will make as good a product as the stuff sold, marketed and perhaps even assembled by much higher priced companies/sellers.


CCA/CCS wiring is inferior for today's HDMI cables (passive or hybrid fiber) but a lot of companies still use them for cost containment. Pure copper wiring is the best you can do but it is costly. It is true that very few, if any, HDMI cable mfrs actually mfr and pull their own copper wiring or even their fiber (be it pure glass or "plastic"). Those basic components are outsourced. The same for the HDMI chipsets in the active cables. The basic chipsets are usually outsourced from one, maybe two, mfrs. with the mfrs then adding their own proprietary chipsets and design to the final product. Design, assembly and QC/QA (whether at the finished stage only or during the build process) add cost as well. Amazon and Monoprice do offer some very good cables (I used Monoprice for years without any issues) and can keep the costs down by purchasing in bulk (no secret there). However, they can be a bit lax in vetting the marketing and product description claims so one has to know how to read between the lines, especially on cables that they place their own labels on. That's one of the reasons that ATC certifications play an important part because the consumer knows that the cable, or a representation of that particular product/batch number, was tested and verified by a standardized procedure designed by HDMI.org and implemented by HDMI LA. It's not a guarantee by any means but at least it's some sort of consumer confidence.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Otto Pylot said:


> This is a quick and dirty list of the more common, certified HDMI cables for the HDMI 2.1 options sets. It is by no means complete so any corrections or additions are more than welcome. Hopefully it will help to narrow down the confusing mess of HDMI cables. Amazon and Monoprice cables were not included because they are resellers, not cable mfrs. A few cables have been tested with some of the current HDMI 2.1 tv's, game boxes, and GPU's so read the specifications carefully. Certification is NOT a guarantee of compatibility, so thoroughly test your cables prior to final installation.
> 
> HDMI 2.1 Option Sets (Ultra High Speed HDMI):
> 
> ALLM (Audio Low Latency Mode), sets the ideal latency setting
> eARC (enhanced Audio Return Channel), HD Audio up to 37Mbps
> QFT (Quick Frame Transport), lower latency smoother for no-lag gaming
> QMS (Quick Media Switching), for movies and videos, requires VRR
> VRR (Variable Refresh Rate), for gaming
> Supports VESA DSC 1.2a link compression
> Supports the latest color spaces including BT.2020 at 10, 12, and 16 bits
> FRL (Fixed Rate Link) Signaling Technology, replaces TMDS and is used for higher, uncompressed resolutions and ultra high bandwidths up to 48Gbps.
> Supports Dynamic HDR
> 
> HDMI 2.1a
> 
> To be announced at CES 2022. Same options as above but adds Source-Based Tone Mapping (SBTM) - offloads some of the HDR tone mapping to the source as well as the device (tv). Is not mandatory so mfrs are free to implement it or not.
> 
> There is also a new HDMI Power Cable added to the HDMI 2.1a spec, courtesy of Rebound:
> HDMI Cable Powers active HDMI Cables
> 
> Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
> Ruipro - 15m
> Cable Matters - 5m, 10m, 15m
> Phoossno - 7.5m, 10m, 15m, 20m
> Zeskit Optical Fiber - 10m, 15m, 20m
> WireWorld Stellar Fiber Optic 8k - up to 30m
> 
> Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ISF Certified*:
> Bullet Train - 5m to 100m (eARC 5m - 20m only)
> 
> Passive, Copper Only Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
> Zeskit Maya - 0.5m, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Zeskit Lite - 1m, 1.5m
> Zeskit X-Tech - 0.5m, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 2.5m
> Ruipro - 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Maxonar - 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Austere - 1.5m, 2m
> Kenable (UK) - 0.5m, 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> WireWorld Radius 48 - 1m
> 
> Passive, Copper Only Cables *DPL Certified*:
> Ethereal - .5m, 1m


Corrected the certification comment about the Ruipro 10m cable. They do not offer an ATC certified 10m cable, yet.
Author error. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Ngerstman1

Of course once you introduce active components in an hdmi cable, that’s another story, not sure if there are any so called standards there other than hopefully knowing what you’re doing. Certainly an excuse for obfuscation and profit gouging for a buck or two in additional parts. How sure are we in the ATC certification process? But as most people buy standard passive hdmi cables, it is silly bordering on criminal to recommend $40-200 six foot cables. The “cheap” one at BB is $80 for a ten footer, not as good as some Emerald Audioquest I’m sure, some of those zeros and ones just lose their way!


----------



## Otto Pylot

Ngerstman1 said:


> Of course once you introduce active components in an hdmi cable, that’s another story, not sure if there are any so called standards there other than hopefully knowing what you’re doing. Certainly an excuse for obfuscation and profit gouging for a buck or two in additional parts. How sure are we in the ATC certification process? But as most people buy standard passive hdmi cables, it is silly bordering on criminal to recommend $40-200 six foot cables. The “cheap” one at BB is $80 for a ten footer, not as good as some Emerald Audioquest I’m sure, some of those zeros and ones just lose their way!


Anything made by AudioQuest is way overhyped and overpriced.


----------



## Ngerstman1

Otto Pylot said:


> Anything made by AudioQuest is way overhyped and overpriced.


But there’s Emerald and Diamond.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Ngerstman1 said:


> But there’s Emerald and Diamond.


They're still AQ products 🙄.


----------



## Ratman

And chocolate and vodka and a plethora of other marketing term enticements.


----------



## turkletont1

Ratman said:


> Wire is manufactured.
> Cables are produced with the wire.
> Cables are obtained by a company and _perhaps_ add a connector themselves.
> Prices are based on marketing techniques.


Isn't this completely irrelevant to most people though? Who the hell cares who makes the cable. I don't even care who makes the cable OR the connector. All I care about is QA, something that appears to be sorely lacking with HDMI cables these days. I've gone through multiple of the same brand that seem to vary from as advertised to janky as hell or simply can't even display full bandwidth - on a relatively small sample size, and this appears to be pretty common.

It shouldn't be more complicated to buy a $20 cable than it is the actual $2,000 TV it's plugging in to lol.


----------



## Otto Pylot

turkletont1 said:


> Isn't this completely irrelevant to most people though? Who the hell cares who makes the cable. I don't even care who makes the cable OR the connector. All I care about is QA, something that appears to be sorely lacking with HDMI cables these days. I've gone through multiple of the same brand that seem to vary from as advertised to janky as hell or simply can't even display full bandwidth - on a relatively small sample size, and this appears to be pretty common.
> 
> It shouldn't be more complicated to buy a $20 cable than it is the actual $2,000 TV it's plugging in to lol.


That's the idea behind HDMI.org's ATC certification program. Any cable mfr can submit their cables to an ATC for standardized testing of the HDMI 2.0/2.1 option sets. If the cable passes, then the QR label of certification/authenticity is awarded by HDMI LA. That being said, certification does not guarantee compatibility.

HDMI, in theory, is a great idea but falls short of universal usage for the consumer. Materials used, the QA/QC process, the percentage of finished product submitted for testing, the devices connected to and their component's QA/QC, cable installation, etc all play a part in whether a particular cable will work or not as expected. They should just work but that's just not the case. And then you have the marketing/product description of the cables that is purposely meant to either confuse the consumer or is just a very carefully re-wording of the basic HDMI option sets to make it sound like a particular cable is the only one you will ever need. Then there's the general misunderstanding of HDMI in general of the majority of the buying public, who will just buy into whatever the marketeers say and pay whatever. Those of us who haunt these halls are a very small minority who understand this but are not the ones who the cable marketeers are aiming towards. Confusing? Yes.


----------



## Ratman

turkletont1 said:


> It shouldn't be more complicated to buy a $20 cable


You are correct. Unfortunately, that is not the reality of the ever changing tech's, spec's and consumer requirements.


----------



## mogrub

In case it helps anybody connecting equipment like mine, I had to replace the 40' HDMI from my AVR to the projector this week. The older cable worked with some 4K sources but not reliably with others. The Ruipro Fiber Optic CL2 rated cable I just installed works perfectly with everything. It's nuts how individualized HDMI solutions are sometimes for different equipment sets. Maybe this post will help somebody running similar gear to me. Otto, props and thanks for the work you do here and elsewhere to help folks navigate the HDMI minefield. Big help. 🙏


----------



## Otto Pylot

mogrub said:


> In case it helps anybody connecting equipment like mine, I had to replace the 40' HDMI from my AVR to the projector this week. The older cable worked with some 4K sources but not reliably with others. The Ruipro Fiber Optic CL2 rated cable I just installed works perfectly with everything. It's nuts how individualized HDMI solutions are sometimes for different equipment sets. Maybe this post will help somebody running similar gear to me. Otto, props and thanks for the work you do here and elsewhere to help folks navigate the HDMI minefield. Big help. 🙏


You're welcome, but HDMI really takes a village at times to solve issues. I'm not the only one. Just keep my Short List on hand in case you ever need to swap out your cable or upgrade.


----------



## Tanquen

mogrub said:


> In case it helps anybody connecting equipment like mine, I had to replace the 40' HDMI from my AVR to the projector this week. The older cable worked with some 4K sources but not reliably with others. The Ruipro Fiber Optic CL2 rated cable I just installed works perfectly with everything. It's nuts how individualized HDMI solutions are sometimes for different equipment sets. Maybe this post will help somebody running similar gear to me. Otto, props and thanks for the work you do here and elsewhere to help folks navigate the HDMI minefield. Big help. 🙏


The cables will work with any piece of equipment has just depends on the bandwidth and settings that you're using on the devices at both ends. If you got a cable that's on the verge of being too noisy for certain settings that need a certain amount of bandwidth for a higher resolution or frame rate or color depth, then you can run into problems. My old HDMI 2.0 monoprice cable was 25 ft and it would randomly work with higher frame rates at 4K but it was super inconsistent and mostly just didn't work unless you were doing 4K at 24 Hertz or whatever. The two active fiber cables I have now have worked with everything since day one without any dropouts or anything. The Apple TV on the other hand had issues with Dolby Atmos on Netflix in certain shows that caused audio dropouts but had nothing to do with the cables. That didn't stop support from asking everyone to switch cables, but it was something internal to the Apple TV.


----------



## Ratman

Sorry... but Bumpity-bump for Newbies. 








Short List of Certified HDMI Cables for HDMI 2.1


This is a quick and dirty list of the more common, certified HDMI cables for the HDMI 2.1 options sets. It is by no means complete so any corrections or additions are more than welcome. Hopefully it will help to narrow down the confusing mess of HDMI cables. Amazon and Monoprice cables were not...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Otto Pylot

Otto Pylot said:


> This is a quick and dirty list of the more common, certified HDMI cables for the HDMI 2.1 options sets. It is by no means complete so any corrections or additions are more than welcome. Hopefully it will help to narrow down the confusing mess of HDMI cables. Amazon and Monoprice cables were not included because they are resellers, not cable mfrs. A few cables have been tested with some of the current HDMI 2.1 tv's, game boxes, and GPU's so read the specifications carefully. Certification is NOT a guarantee of compatibility, so thoroughly test your cables prior to final installation.
> 
> HDMI 2.1 Option Sets (Ultra High Speed HDMI):
> 
> ALLM (Audio Low Latency Mode), sets the ideal latency setting
> eARC (enhanced Audio Return Channel), HD Audio up to 37Mbps
> QFT (Quick Frame Transport), lower latency smoother for no-lag gaming
> QMS (Quick Media Switching), for movies and videos, requires VRR
> VRR (Variable Refresh Rate), for gaming
> Supports VESA DSC 1.2a link compression
> Supports the latest color spaces including BT.2020 at 10, 12, and 16 bits
> FRL (Fixed Rate Link) Signaling Technology, replaces TMDS and is used for higher, uncompressed resolutions and ultra high bandwidths up to 48Gbps.
> Supports Dynamic HDR
> 
> HDMI 2.1a
> 
> To be announced at CES 2022. Same options as above but adds Source-Based Tone Mapping (SBTM) - offloads some of the HDR tone mapping to the source as well as the device (tv). Is not mandatory so mfrs are free to implement it or not.
> 
> There is also a new HDMI Power Cable added to the HDMI 2.1a spec, courtesy of Rebound:
> HDMI Cable Powers active HDMI Cables
> 
> Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
> Ruipro - 10m, 15m
> Cable Matters - 5m, 10m, 15m
> Phoossno - 7.5m, 10m, 15m, 20m
> Zeskit Optical Fiber - 10m, 15m, 20m
> WireWorld Stellar Fiber Optic 8k - up to 30m
> 
> Active, Hybrid Fiber Cables *ISF Certified*:
> Bullet Train - 5m to 100m (eARC 5m - 20m only)
> 
> Passive, Copper Only Cables *ATC Certified (QR Label)*:
> Zeskit Maya - 0.5m, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Zeskit Lite - 1m, 1.5m
> Zeskit X-Tech - 0.5m, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 2.5m
> Ruipro - 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Maxonar - 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> Austere - 1.5m, 2m
> Kenable (UK) - 0.5m, 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m
> WireWorld Radius 48 - 1m
> 
> Passive, Copper Only Cables *DPL Certified*:
> Ethereal - .5m, 1m


Ruipro has released a 10m, ATC certified UHS hybrid fiber cable. Product code is: SNAOC21V102A_10UHS.


----------



## MinMidMax

Are there any certified HDMI 2.1 cables that are plenum/CL2/CL3 rated and longer than 50ft?


----------



## Otto Pylot

MinMidMax said:


> Are there any certified HDMI 2.1 cables that are plenum/CL2/CL3 rated and longer than 50ft?


Probably not, but to be honest, I haven't looked in awhile. A certified, fire rated cable (CL2=150v, CL3=300v), especially at that length for a hybrid fiber cable are a rarity, if they even exist. Material cost, extra certification (for the fire rating, etc) are the main reasons. Do you really need a fire rated cable because CL ratings are mostly for shock prevention in case of a fire. The Vertical Flame Tray test is the same for both (the spread of flames).


----------



## MinMidMax

Otto Pylot said:


> Probably not, but to be honest, I haven't looked in awhile. A certified, fire rated cable (CL2=150v, CL3=300v), especially at that length for a hybrid fiber cable are a rarity, if they even exist. Material cost, extra certification (for the fire rating, etc) are the main reasons. Do you really need a fire rated cable because CL ratings are mostly for shock prevention in case of a fire. The Vertical Flame Tray test is the same for both (the spread of flames).


I’m routing the cable behind a wall and need it to be in-wall rated.

I was able to find a certified plenum rated HDMI 2.1 cable that is 50ft:






AOC 2.1 - Active Optical Cable - HDMI Certified [email protected] - 48Gbps - UHD - HDR Cable - CMP Plenum Rated - Infinite Cables


Overview This active optical High-Speed HDMI® cable is plenum rated and consists of a HDMI male connector on both ends The cable has a built in signal booster chipset which allows it to maintain a HDMI 2 1 signal over a thin cable at longer lengths with no signal loss It is typically used to...




www.infinitecables.com





and I can find non-certified plenum rated HDMI 2.1 cables that are longer than 50ft:






AOC 2.1 - Active Optical Cable - HDMI High Speed [email protected] - 48Gbps - UHD - HDR Cable - CMP Plenum Rated - Infinite Cables


Overview This active optical High-Speed HDMI® cable is plenum rated and consists of a HDMI male connector on both ends The cable has a built in signal booster chipset which allows it to maintain a HDMI 2 1 signal over a thin cable at longer lengths with no signal loss It is typically used to...




www.infinitecables.com






I’ve yet to find anything that is HDMI 2.1 certified, in-wall rated, and longer than 50ft


----------



## Otto Pylot

MinMidMax said:


> I’m routing the cable behind a wall and need it to be in-wall rated.
> 
> I was able to find a certified plenum rated HDMI 2.1 cable that is 50ft:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AOC 2.1 - Active Optical Cable - HDMI Certified [email protected] - 48Gbps - UHD - HDR Cable - CMP Plenum Rated - Infinite Cables
> 
> 
> Overview This active optical High-Speed HDMI® cable is plenum rated and consists of a HDMI male connector on both ends The cable has a built in signal booster chipset which allows it to maintain a HDMI 2 1 signal over a thin cable at longer lengths with no signal loss It is typically used to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.infinitecables.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I can find non-certified plenum rated HDMI 2.1 cables that are longer than 50ft:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AOC 2.1 - Active Optical Cable - HDMI High Speed [email protected] - 48Gbps - UHD - HDR Cable - CMP Plenum Rated - Infinite Cables
> 
> 
> Overview This active optical High-Speed HDMI® cable is plenum rated and consists of a HDMI male connector on both ends The cable has a built in signal booster chipset which allows it to maintain a HDMI 2 1 signal over a thin cable at longer lengths with no signal loss It is typically used to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.infinitecables.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve yet to find anything that is HDMI 2.1 certified, in-wall rated, and longer than 50ft


And that's the problem with CL-rated cables. A lot of folks use flexible conduit (which is highly recommended for in-wall installations) and call it a day. If you want to "future proof" your cabling then you really need to have easy access for upgrading/replacing your cabling if need be (and chances are you will). Especially if your cabling will be in-wall. It just makes it easier and safer to pull your cabling and control bend radius. CL-rated cables are usually a bit stiffer than non-rated cables because of the jacket requirements so bend radius becomes a bit more important.

You might want to contact the various mfrs listed on my Short List of HDMI Cables and see if they offer a hybrid fiber, Ultra High Speed HDMI cable, CL-rated at >50'. They may be able to special order it for you. Using a flexible conduit won't replace the fire rating but is highly recommended for in-wall cabling, unless fishing the cable thru blank spaces in the wall (between studs for example) is easy.

BTW, neither one of the cables you linked to are ATC certified (QR label of authenticity). There is no mention as to how they were "certified", at least not that I could find on the product description.


----------



## wrathloki

What’s the difference between the ATC and ISF certification? Also has anyone here tried the Phoossno 7.5m cable? That’s the only one in the length I need. I could go longer but it creates a slack issue I’d have to figure out. Looking to do 4k120 RGB 10 bit VRR ALLM HDR with the cable.


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> What’s the difference between the ATC and ISF certification? Also has anyone here tried the Phoossno 7.5m cable? That’s the only one in the length I need. I could go longer but it creates a slack issue I’d have to figure out. Looking to do 4k120 RGB 10 bit VRR ALLM HDR with the cable.


I've tested the Phoossno cables on my systems and my nephews gaming system and they work as expected. ATC (Authorized Testing Center) is a certification program designed by HDMI.org and licensed by HDMI LA. Cables that have been certified and passed are labeled with a QR label so that the customer can scan the label for cable authenticity. ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) is similar in that its main purpose is to train folks for certification of A/V equipment to meet current standards. They both probably do the same but the ATCs were developed and implemented by the same folks who brought us HDMI in the first place.


----------



## wrathloki

Is there any consensus here as to which of the listed active cables are best? They all have negative reviews saying that 4k120 isn’t working so I’m not sure which one to go with. The wireworld and bullet train are not options for me at that price FYI.


----------



## Ratman

wrathloki said:


> Is there any consensus here as to which of the listed active cables are best?


It's 50/50. 
Everyone's setup differs in one way or another. 🤷‍♀️


----------



## wrathloki

Well I pulled the trigger on the Ruipro 10m certified. After testing this and given this works I may try running it and leaving my current HDMI cable in the wall just to have a backup in case of failure down the line.


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> Well I pulled the trigger on the Ruipro 10m certified. After testing this and given this works I may try running it and leaving my current HDMI cable in the wall just to have a backup in case of failure down the line.


That sounds like a good plan. The 10m is their latest certified cable.


----------



## AVR Enthu

Here is another certified brand to add to the OP list. I bought it from Fibbr.


----------



## Otto Pylot

AVR Enthu said:


> Here is another certified brand to add to the OP list. I bought it from Fibbr.
> View attachment 3365231


Thanks. I'll look into it and add it to the list. I initially left them off of the list because there were some questions about their certified cables.


----------



## AVR Enthu

Otto Pylot said:


> Thanks. I'll look into it and add it to the list. I initially left them off of the list because there were some questions about their certified cables.


It works ok.


----------



## wrathloki

This 10m certified Ruipro seems wonky. At first when I connected it I got nothing at all. Then I wiggled around the connection on the tv and the image would go on and off. Reconnected old monoprice with no issues at all. Connected Ruipro again and got an image, no wiggle issues at all. Then I changed from 4k60 RGB HDR 8 bit to 10 bit and got no image. Reconnected and now I have image. I then set to 4k120 RGB 10 bit HDR and everything seems to be working fine.

I don’t know if there’s some kind of issue with this cable that I should be returning it or if I should roll with it now that it’s working and pull the wire through the wall.


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> This 10m certified Ruipro seems wonky. At first when I connected it I got nothing at all. Then I wiggled around the connection on the tv and the image would go on and off. Reconnected old monoprice with no issues at all. Connected Ruipro again and got an image, no wiggle issues at all. Then I changed from 4k60 RGB HDR 8 bit to 10 bit and got no image. Reconnected and now I have image. I then set to 4k120 RGB 10 bit HDR and everything seems to be working fine.
> 
> I don’t know if there’s some kind of issue with this cable that I should be returning it or if I should roll with it now that it’s working and pull the wire through the wall.


I would contact Ruipro before pulling is thru the wall. You really want to be satisfied with the performance prior to final installation, even if you have an in-wall conduit. If you wiggle the cable and the image flickers that is not surprising, but, if wiggling the Mono cable doesn't produce the same effect then that indicates an issue with the cable connector end. I'm assuming the Mono cable is an active cable as well (hybrid fiber)? You do have other cable mfrs to choose from on my list if the Ruipro doesn't work out or if a replacement has the same issue. Do contact Ruipro about this because they need to know. They have been making some internal production changes (component vendors, QA/QC protocols) so this is the kind of info then need to hear about.


----------



## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> I would contact Ruipro before pulling is thru the wall. You really want to be satisfied with the performance prior to final installation, even if you have an in-wall conduit. If you wiggle the cable and the image flickers that is not surprising, but, if wiggling the Mono cable doesn't produce the same effect then that indicates an issue with the cable connector end. I'm assuming the Mono cable is an active cable as well (hybrid fiber)? You do have other cable mfrs to choose from on my list if the Ruipro doesn't work out or if a replacement has the same issue. Do contact Ruipro about this because they need to know. They have been making some internal production changes (component vendors, QA/QC protocols) so this is the kind of info then need to hear about.


Well there’s no wiggle issue with the Ruipro anymore after reconnecting, so I’m not sure what the deal is. The old Monoprice cable is straight copper, 25ft, performs quite well for such a long copper run. 4k60 8 bit RGB HDR no problem, every once in a while it will do 120 for some reason.


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> Well there’s no wiggle issue with the Ruipro anymore after reconnecting, so I’m not sure what the deal is. The old Monoprice cable is straight copper, 25ft, performs quite well for such a long copper run. 4k60 8 bit RGB HDR no problem, every once in a while it will do 120 for some reason.


So, to be clear, after re-connecting the Ruipro cable there are no issues?


----------



## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> So, to be clear, after re-connecting the Ruipro cable there are no issues?


Yep, it’s strange.


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> Yep, it’s strange.


Strange is the very definition of HDMI 😉. Keep testing before final installation. Might even be a good idea to disconnect and then reconnect the cable just to make sure. I'd power down your system before disconnecting/reconnecting your HDMI cables. It's not supposed to matter but with active cables always drawing a bit of power it's just a good practice.


----------



## wrathloki

So after a few days of testing, several hours of gaming time and dozens of plugs and unplugs I pulled the cable through the walls. Got it connected on both ends, turn the PC on, no image. So I shut it down, turned the pc on and then connected and I got an image. Tried leaving it connected and restarted the PC again no image. So I connected the little USB power adapter and now it seems to work when connected before startup. I don’t know what’s changed between now and yesterday in that regard. In any case the little adapter doesn’t seem to be degrading the signal, I haven’t had any problems yet. _fingers crossed_


----------



## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> So after a few days of testing, several hours of gaming time and dozens of plugs and unplugs I pulled the cable through the walls. Got it connected on both ends, turn the PC on, no image. So I shut it down, turned the pc on and then connected and I got an image. Tried leaving it connected and restarted the PC again no image. So I connected the little USB power adapter and now it seems to work when connected before startup. I don’t know what’s changed between now and yesterday in that regard. In any case the little adapter doesn’t seem to be degrading the signal, I haven’t had any problems yet. _fingers crossed_


The "little adapter" is the power inserter. HDMI required all hybrid fiber mfrs to include power inserters with their cables because of the strict voltage requirements for hybrid fiber cables. Unfortunately, a lot of cable mfrs choose to ignore this and being as HDMI.org is not a regulatory agency, they can't force the issue. Why it worked prior to installation is anybody's guess. It could be the cable (loose connection on the chipset) or either HDMI port on the connected devices.

_"The 5V output of an HDMI transmitter is not designed for powering cables. Some devices provide more than the minimum power required and some do not. So a powered cable may work with one transmitting device and not with another.

This is why, in HDMI 2.1, the specification requires that any active cable MUST include a connection for external power. The external connection does not have to be used by the consumer, but it has to be provided for this exact reason."_

I would certainly contact the mfr, mention it to them and see what they have to say.


----------



## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> The "little adapter" is the power inserter. HDMI required all hybrid fiber mfrs to include power inserters with their cables because of the strict voltage requirements for hybrid fiber cables. Unfortunately, a lot of cable mfrs choose to ignore this and being as HDMI.org is not a regulatory agency, they can't force the issue. Why it worked prior to installation is anybody's guess. It could be the cable (loose connection on the chipset) or either HDMI port on the connected devices.
> 
> _"The 5V output of an HDMI transmitter is not designed for powering cables. Some devices provide more than the minimum power required and some do not. So a powered cable may work with one transmitting device and not with another.
> 
> This is why, in HDMI 2.1, the specification requires that any active cable MUST include a connection for external power. The external connection does not have to be used by the consumer, but it has to be provided for this exact reason."_
> 
> I would certainly contact the mfr, mention it to them and see what they have to say.


Well as long as it’s working I don’t think I need to contact them. This seems to be one of those exact use cases that they provide that power connection for. If I run into problems I certainly will though.

Edit: All I can think is that the HDMI power on my EVGA 3080 is delayed in the boot up sequence and isn’t powering up fast enough to power this cable and that’s why the power connector solves it (USB must power up faster) and why connecting the HDMI without the adapter after the PC is already in windows works fine. It could be something as small as a driver issue, who knows?


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> Well as long as it’s working I don’t think I need to contact them. This seems to be one of those exact use cases that they provide that power connection for. If I run into problems I certainly will though.
> 
> Edit: All I can think is that the HDMI power on my EVGA 3080 is delayed in the boot up sequence and isn’t powering up fast enough to power this cable and that’s why the power connector solves it (USB must power up faster) and why connecting the HDMI without the adapter after the PC is already in windows works fine. It could be something as small as a driver issue, who knows?


Sounds reasonable. Do post back if you run into issues.


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## wrathloki

So I am finding that I need to turn the TV on before the PC or I get no image. This cable is definitely more complicated than copper. When I do things in the right order it works flawlessly at 4k120 HDR 10 bit RGB VRR though.


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> So I am finding that I need to turn the TV on before the PC or I get no image. This cable is definitely more complicated than copper. When I do things in the right order it works flawlessly at 4k120 HDR 10 bit RGB VRR though.


Hmmm, that is a bit strange. I do remember when I was testing the hybrid fiber cables on my OLED and the QLED, using a Harmony remote, the receiver for either system would come on first but the panels would turn on almost simultaneously (a couple ms later). The same for my nephew's gaming system, who I have test the cables after me because he's got a really sweet setup. Depending on the length of your cable run, it could be that there is some sort of mechanism in the cable so that if it doesn't detect a connection at the sink side quickly, handshake fails and the cable won't establish a connected signal path. Yes, hybrid fiber cables are much more complicated than copper only. The chipsets have a lot to keep track of, the fiber wiring core for high speed data transmission and the copper wires surrounding that for low speed data requirement (HDCP, ARC, EDID).


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## Zaku77

I know that the Stellar model from Wire World is considered to be a safe, good option, based on the first page. Does anyone have any experience with the Starlight? I need a 30m in wall rated cable to for a run from my office to the living room, and this one looks perfect, but I'm curious if anyone has had any experiences with it and why the Stellar is on the list but this one isn't?

Thanks!

The cable:








Fiber Optic HDMI Cable | Certified HDMI 2.1 Cable - 48Gbps


Enjoy your media in the highest quality with the Starlight 48 fiber optic HDMI cable. This certified HDMI 2.1 cable from Wireworld offers a speed of 48Gbps.



wireworldcable.com


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## Otto Pylot

The WireWorld Stellar, certified UHS HDMI, up to 30m is on my list because at the time the list was compiled, the Starlight wasn't available yet. The only difference between the two is the CL fire rated jacket. Otherwise, they are essentially the same. Keep in mind that 100' is pushing the limits for any hybrid fiber cable, certified or not. And, certification does not guarantee compatibility. Are you sure you need a fire rated cable? CL rating is mostly to prevent shock for HV (high voltage) wiring. HDMI is LV (low voltage wiring). Will you be using flexible conduit as well?


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## Zaku77

Otto Pylot said:


> The WireWorld Stellar, certified UHS HDMI, up to 30m is on my list because at the time the list was compiled, the Starlight wasn't available yet. The only difference between the two is the CL fire rated jacket. Otherwise, they are essentially the same. Keep in mind that 100' is pushing the limits for any hybrid fiber cable, certified or not. And, certification does not guarantee compatibility. Are you sure you need a fire rated cable? CL rating is mostly to prevent shock for HV (high voltage) wiring. HDMI is LV (low voltage wiring). Will you be using flexible conduit as well?


That makes sense. Do you have any experience with the RUIPRO that has been mentioned earlier in this thread? It has a cheaper 85 ft option that seems to have very good review. I only need 75 ft, so the 100 ft WireWorld options are actually longer than I need. The run from my office to my living room is beyond my ability, so I am working with an installer for it, and he is requiring that I get an in wall, fire rated cable. I'm unsure on if he's going to use some kind of flexible conduit, but I would assume so.


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## Otto Pylot

Zaku77 said:


> That makes sense. Do you have any experience with the RUIPRO that has been mentioned earlier in this thread? It has a cheaper 85 ft option that seems to have very good review. I only need 75 ft, so the 100 ft WireWorld options are actually longer than I need. The run from my office to my living room is beyond my ability, so I am working with an installer for it, and he is requiring that I get an in wall, fire rated cable. I'm unsure on if he's going to use some kind of flexible conduit, but I would assume so.


I have tested all kinds of cables (Ruipro, Zeskit, Cables Matter, Phoossno) and they all have worked as expected, but the lengths have not been any where close to what you want to do. Distance is the achilles heel of HDMI cables.

Don't assume that the installer is going to use flexible conduit (Smurf tube for example). CL-rated cable, even for LV wiring, may be a building code requirement so that's why the installer is insistent on it. My guess is that he also has a brand of cable that he recommends installing. A 1.5" - 2.0" conduit, with appropriate pull strings, for a run that long is almost a requirement. The reason is that it is easier and safer to run the cabling, control bend radius, and reinstall cabling if you need to down the road (which, at 75', is highly likely). HDMI cable technology will always lag behind video technology so you need to plan for the future (replacement) of which using a conduit at that length is highly advised. And make sure the cable run, especially at that length, is a single cable, source to sink, with no wall plates, adapters, or extenders in-between. That is the most reliable connection strategy.


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## wrathloki

Today I went to hook up the Ruipro and I had to redo all my windows display settings for some reason. Overall this cable is not working well and I think the certification is an outright lie. The HDMI consortium is certifying cables they shouldn’t be, what a racket. It was such an ordeal to pull this cable too, I even had vermiculite falling out of the hole into the basement that must have fallen into the wall from the attic, so I’m probably getting mesothelioma over this.

Edit: Now I’m getting colored screen flashes. So mad about this. It worked perfectly before.


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## Ratman

Everyone loves HDMI. One simple cable solution for all your audio/video requirements. 🤣


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## Otto Pylot

Ratman said:


> Everyone loves HDMI. One simple cable solution for all your audio/video requirements. 🤣


True. The more expensive, the better. And let's not forget that those expensive HDMI cables improve pq as well 😉.


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## Otto Pylot

I've updated my Short List of HDMI cables with additions, corrections, some CL-rated cables, and a distance table:
Short List of HDMI Cables

Any corrections or additions are always welcomed.


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## bgavin

I see some use stranded wire, others use solid.
In the CAT5 world, solid is "home run" type for in-wall, etc.

Question: Is there any benefit to 46 gbs cables using solid wire for short runs, other than being more flexible?


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## Otto Pylot

bgavin said:


> I see some use stranded wire, others use solid.
> In the CAT5 world, solid is "home run" type for in-wall, etc.
> 
> Question: Is there any benefit to 46 gbs cables using solid wire for short runs, other than being more flexible?


Not sure if I understand your question. Are you referring to using CAT-5 for HDBT or ethernet? For short HDMI runs (<15'), a passive HDMI cable, ideally certified, should work.


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## wrathloki

I tried connecting the usb power connector of this Ruipro cable to an always on USB plug and I’m still having the handshaking issues. Both devices on first and then plug into source or bust I guess with this cable.


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> I tried connecting the usb power connector of this Ruipro cable to an always on USB plug and I’m still having the handshaking issues. Both devices on first and then plug into source or bust I guess with this cable.


Did you test the cable thoroughly prior to installation? I forget what you said. 

Just connecting a cable to your pc should not change any settings at all. The cable is just a data pipe. Something is not working quite right in your setup. Either the cable is faulty, the HDMI port or ports are faulty, or something is amiss in your pc. The fact that you had to jiggle the cable at one time to get it to work is suspicious. Either call Ruipro and get a replacement directly from them or try another cable like Phoossno, WireWorld, Cable Matters, etc.


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## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> Did you test the cable thoroughly prior to installation? I forget what you said.
> 
> Just connecting a cable to your pc should not change any settings at all. The cable is just a data pipe. Something is not working quite right in your setup. Either the cable is faulty, the HDMI port or ports are faulty, or something is amiss in your pc. The fact that you had to jiggle the cable at one time to get it to work is suspicious. Either call Ruipro and get a replacement directly from them or try another cable like Phoossno, WireWorld, Cable Matters, etc.


I did test it thoroughly, had none of these problems. Unfortunately I’m stuck with this one because pulling the wire revealed that vermiculite had been falling from the attic into the wall and out through the hole the wire is run.


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> I did test it thoroughly, had none of these problems. Unfortunately I’m stuck with this one because pulling the wire revealed that vermiculite had been falling from the attic into the wall and out through the hole the wire is run.


That is unfortunate, about the cable and the vermiculite ☹. Either the cable has issues with its chipsets (usually once they go, they go) but your issues coming and going is odd, or the cable was damaged during the pull, or it's a source issue. Wish I had a better solution for you.


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## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> That is unfortunate, about the cable and the vermiculite ☹. Either the cable has issues with its chipsets (usually once they go, they go) but your issues coming and going is odd, or the cable was damaged during the pull, or it's a source issue. Wish I had a better solution for you.


It’s still workable at least, I just have to make sure to do things in the right order and the cable seems to do what it’s supposed to do.


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> It’s still workable at least, I just have to make sure to do things in the right order and the cable seems to do what it’s supposed to do.


Sounds to me that there is something amiss with your setup. Do you use CEC by any chance?


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## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> Sounds to me that there is something amiss with your setup. Do you use CEC by any chance?


Nah it’s the cable, the older cable doesn’t have any handshaking issues, though it lacks the throughput.


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## Otto Pylot

The cable shouldn't have any effect on the order that your devices are powered on. That's controlled by the HDMI ports but with anything HDMI, all bets are off. If the older cable does not have the bandwidth capacity, it could be too much data too fast for the handshaking to complete without issues. Did you try it with CEC disabled? Probably won't make a difference but it's something to rule out. If you can't try another cable then it sounds like you'll just have to do what you're doing now. When you tested the cable prior to installation, did you have to power on your system in any specific order? The soundbar is ARC-capable so it probably requires you to use CEC. It could very well be the cable but with ARC/CEC in the mix, and an active cable attached to a pc, anything is possible. I would certainly recommend trying a different mfr of cable but that sounds like it's not a realistic possibility.


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## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> The cable shouldn't have any effect on the order that your devices are powered on. That's controlled by the HDMI ports but with anything HDMI, all bets are off. If the older cable does not have the bandwidth capacity, it could be too much data too fast for the handshaking to complete without issues. Did you try it with CEC disabled? Probably won't make a difference but it's something to rule out. If you can't try another cable then it sounds like you'll just have to do what you're doing now. When you tested the cable prior to installation, did you have to power on your system in any specific order? The soundbar is ARC-capable so it probably requires you to use CEC. It could very well be the cable but with ARC/CEC in the mix, and an active cable attached to a pc, anything is possible. I would certainly recommend trying a different mfr of cable but that sounds like it's not a realistic possibility.


Yeah I pretty much need CEC enabled. But the old cable doesn’t have handshaking issues is what I’m saying. I left it in the wall and it’s still working as it used to, I just can’t use it for more than 4k60 8 bit.


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## Otto Pylot

Was the old cable active or passive? I forget. And the cable connection is to the tv first and then the soundbar or vice versa?


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## wrathloki

Otto Pylot said:


> Was the old cable active or passive? I forget. And the cable connection is to the tv first and then the soundbar or vice versa?


Passive. Connection to TV first, sound via eARC.


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## Otto Pylot

wrathloki said:


> Passive. Connection to TV first, sound via eARC.


What about connecting to the JBL first?


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## Markn1150

Wanted to see if anyone might have any insight.. I have been struggling mightily thus far getting any Fiber cable to successfully pass 4k120hz from PS5 to my LG G2. Have tried:

-Monoprice 32ft
-THREE different Ruipro 25ft gen 3 w/ the USB adapter -> with one of these cable was able to get 4k120hz to pass ~20% of the time.
-Fibbr 25ft

All had no problem passing 4k60hz at 422 chroma, but will NOT pass 4k120.

Tremendously frustrating experience  
-Would the Phoossno or Zeskit be a better bet? Just bite the bullet and go Bullet train?
-Jumping back to copper, has anyone had success getting 4k120hz with active 15-20ft cables (Zeskit?)


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## Otto Pylot

Markn1150 said:


> Wanted to see if anyone might have any insight.. I have been struggling mightily thus far getting any Fiber cable to successfully pass 4k120hz from PS5 to my LG G2. Have tried:
> 
> -Monoprice 32ft
> -THREE different Ruipro 25ft gen 3 w/ the USB adapter -> with one of these cable was able to get 4k120hz to pass ~20% of the time.
> -Fibbr 25ft
> 
> All had no problem passing 4k60hz at 422 chroma, but will NOT pass 4k120.
> 
> Tremendously frustrating experience
> -Would the Phoossno or Zeskit be a better bet? Just bite the bullet and go Bullet train?
> -Jumping back to copper, has anyone had success getting 4k120hz with active 15-20ft cables (Zeskit?)


If you want to try a passive, certified UHS HDMI cable up to 5m, you might want to consider Zeskit but make sure you have enough length that you don't bend the cable very much or put undue strain on the HDMI ports. Passive cables of that length tend to be a bit stiffer due to the AWG needed to pass certification. If you want to try another hybrid fiber cable, then Phoossno or Cable Matters might be who you want to look at. Bullet Train may also work as well, but as with ANY HDMI cable, there are no 100% guarantees as compatibility across the board with any and all devices is still a problem.

As to the voltage inserter, HDMI requires that all hybrid fiber cable mfrs include voltage inserters in case they are needed, but HDM.org does not really have any regulatory powers so the mfrs are free to do that or not. The voltage inserters are used because some source devices have too much of a variation in current output that some active cable chipsets have difficult with. The connector chipsets (most all of which are supplied by a mfr in Germany to all cable mfrs) are getting better with newer designs in handling that variation but there are just lots of cables out there in inventory that still have issues with some devices.


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## Otto Pylot

UPDATE NOTE:

HDFury cables have been added to the list as well as an expanded explanation of HDMI 2.1a.


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