# The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread



## MississippiMan

Post here with comments, suggestions, revelations, and tips regarding the Epson 8350 LCD PJ.


I'll personally be relating about the installation of at least 3 separate units over the next 10 days, but with all the pre-orders to Visual Apex about to be filled, I have no doubt that there will be several if not many members beating me to the Punch.


It's all looks to be "All Good" so far, so let's get'ter dun!


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## LucyFord

I'll have some unboxing pics tonight!


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## leov36

I currently own the epson hc720 and I absolutely love that pj. After hearing about the 8350 I am getting a serious case of upgrade-itis. Great price great specs( way better than my current pj) and can't wait to see how much better this will be. I have to sell my 720 first though, or the wifey will more than likely cut me in some fashion. Looking forward to reading some reviews on this guy but I think I'm gonna end up pulling the trigger anyways


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## cbaseuser

If this projector uses the same panels as the 8500ub (probably the 6500ub as well), is it safe to say that the NATIVE contrast will be the same? I don't see at all why not.


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbaseuser* /forum/post/19267872
> 
> 
> If this projector uses the same panels as the 8500ub (probably the 6500ub as well), is it safe to say that the NATIVE contrast will be the same? I don't see at all why not.



The 8350 has a different Panel from the "ub" models to a degree because it does not employ Epson's absolute best proprietary Black enhancement edging feature that helps restrict sideways light leakage from the Light Engine from invading the surface of the LCD panels. That feature, along with a different Multi-layered lens makes for the 200K:1 contrast to be possible. Even so, the improvement is a markedly better one from the 8100, whose brightness was both it's strongest suit, and it's biggest weakness as far as getting the best contrast possible, either native or Dynamic.


Someday though......


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leov36* /forum/post/19267555
> 
> 
> I currently own the epson hc720 and I absolutely love that pj. After hearing about the 8350 I am getting a serious case of upgrade-itis. Great price great specs( way better than my current pj) and can't wait to see how much better this will be. I have to sell my 720 first though, or the wifey will more than likely cut me in some fashion. Looking forward to reading some reviews on this guy but I think I'm gonna end up pulling the trigger anyways



Just hide all the sharp edged knives and get'cher self a Kelvar vest. As long as you survive long enough to let her see the difference, she'll lose the homicidal urges quickly enough.


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## LucyFord

Mine just arrived but im stuck at work until 9pm.


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19269169
> 
> 
> Mine just arrived but im stuck at work until 9pm.



You look awfully flushed to me. Is that a sniffle I hear...? A hacking cough...?


.....I think for your own good you need to go home early...take a pill....*




**.....and get the Puppy up and working!!!!!!*


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## LucyFord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19269552
> 
> 
> You look awfully flushed to me. Is that a sniffle I hear...? A hacking cough...?
> 
> 
> .....I think for your own good you need to go home early...take a pill....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **.....and get the Puppy up and working!!!!!!*




Now that you say something I do feel a little sick to my stomach! Itll be mounted and ready to to go by noon tomorrow my day off is tomorrow I get to sit in my mancave and play Madden its gonna be a terrible day!


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## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19269647
> 
> 
> Now that you say something I do feel a little sick to my stomach! Itll be mounted and ready to to go by noon tomorrow my day off is tomorrow I get to sit in my mancave and play Madden its gonna be a terrible day!



Noon tomorrow? I think you can push that up to around 9:00am with a little extra effort.


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## LucyFord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19269848
> 
> 
> Noon tomorrow? I think you can push that up to around 9:00am with a little extra effort.



Haha your right I think that it will probably be done about 9am.


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## mike734

I've ordered it from Projector people because I live in WA and didn't want to pay the 9.5% sales tax from VisualApex. They say they won't get them until Oct 11 although I see the web page has been changed to Oct 4. I can hardly wait. I just moved in to a house that came with a home theater. It will be my first home projector.


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## davyo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19269848
> 
> 
> Noon tomorrow? I think you can push that up to around 9:00am with a little extra effort.



Some screenshots would be fun to see,,,, after you get it set-up at 9:01am










Cheers

Davyo


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## eddieb187

Received my 8350 @ 5:30 this evening.

I had to make a new shelf. Would not fit on the shelf I had for my HC400.

The case on this thing is a couple of inches wider.

I have it setup and running. So far so good. Amazing picture right out of the box.

I have it on Cinema Mode. Have tried my Mac Pro, TiVo Premiere XL, and Oppo BDP 83.

What a difference from my HC400. The whites on the 8350 make the whites on the 400 look yellow.

Convergence is spot on. No banding or any problems with color.

The skin tones on this thing are beautiful.

I can't wait to calibrate it. Will burn it in some before I do that.

I hope Art posts the settings from his calibration. Will give those a try.

So far I am really happy with the way it looks right now.


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## talk2rider

From looking at the user guide for the 8350, its got me wondering about projector placement. Currently, my old projector sits on a TV mount (essentially a shelf) mounted to the back wall near the ceiling. I would say the lens is about 12 inches from the ceiling and the lens is about 2.5 ft above the center of the screen - so the projector has to project downward. I am wondering if the new lens shift capability is going to allow me to point the image downward enough - with the projector sitting right side up. My old projector had to sit on the shelf upside down to achieve this. (It even came with stick-on rubber feet for this purpose.) So I guess my questions are 1) Is the vertical shift pretty substantial, and 2) does it shift as much "down" as it does "up"? The A-shift vs. B-Shift described in the user guide confuses me. It doesn't really explain the A-shift.


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## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19271508
> 
> 
> From looking at the user guide for the 8350, its got me wondering about projector placement. Currently, my old projector sits on a TV mount (essentially a shelf) mounted to the back wall near the ceiling. I would say the lens is about 12 inches from the ceiling and the lens is about 2.5 ft above the center of the screen - so the projector has to project downward. I am wondering if the new lens shift capability is going to allow me to point the image downward enough - with the projector sitting right side up. My old projector had to sit on the shelf upside down to achieve this. (It even came with rubber feet for this purpose.) So I guess my questions are 1) Is the vertical shift pretty substantial, and 2) does it shift as much "down" as it does "up"? The A-shift vs. B-Shift described in the user guide confuses me. It doesn't really explain the A-shift.



I was thinking it would be able to do the same downward angle like a DLP does.... Can anybody care to help out with the projector placement. I have my mount ready to go at 10" from the ceiling and my


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## talk2rider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19271461
> 
> 
> Received my 8350 @ 5:30 this evening.
> 
> I had to make a new shelf. Would not fit on the shelf I had for my HC400.
> 
> The case on this thing is a couple of inches wider.
> 
> I have it setup and running. So far so good. Amazing picture right out of the box.
> 
> I have it on Cinema Mode. Have tried my Mac Pro, TiVo Premiere XL, and Oppo BDP 83.
> 
> What a difference from my HC400. The whites on the 8350 make the whites on the 400 look yellow.
> 
> Convergence is spot on. No banding or any problems with color.
> 
> The skin tones on this thing are beautiful.
> 
> I can't wait to calibrate it. Will burn it in some before I do that.
> 
> I hope Art posts the settings from his calibration. Will give those a try.
> 
> So far I am really happy with the way it looks right now.



Awesome! Let the lamp death watch begin!


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## talk2rider

Speaking of which, was there anything in the box about a lamp rebate?


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## eddieb187

8700UB is the one with the Lamp Rebate.


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## eddieb187

These are from my Oppo BDP 83.

I think the blacks are pretty good.


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## lin000

returned my 8100 today and will order from PP tomorrow. Need to change my white screen to a grey one and then i'm complete on the whole home theatre shopping for the holiday season.


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## Coolme




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19271927
> 
> 
> These are from my Oppo BDP 83.
> 
> I think the blacks are pretty good.



Looks good. My attention was focused on the blacks, it's hard to tell but they seem pretty good. I'm also in the market for a projector and this one and it's small brother in Europe are on my list. I'll be checking this thread regularly and will try to find some reviews.


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## Coolme




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19271461
> 
> 
> Received my 8350 @ 5:30 this evening.
> 
> I had to make a new shelf. Would not fit on the shelf I had for my HC400.
> 
> The case on this thing is a couple of inches wider.
> 
> I have it setup and running. So far so good. Amazing picture right out of the box.
> 
> I have it on Cinema Mode. Have tried my Mac Pro, TiVo Premiere XL, and Oppo BDP 83.
> 
> What a difference from my HC400. The whites on the 8350 make the whites on the 400 look yellow.
> 
> Convergence is spot on. No banding or any problems with color.
> 
> The skin tones on this thing are beautiful.
> 
> I can't wait to calibrate it. Will burn it in some before I do that.
> 
> I hope Art posts the settings from his calibration. Will give those a try.
> 
> So far I am really happy with the way it looks right now.



It's good to know the unit works well out of the box. What do you plan to use for calibration? I have one of those DVE discs but I'm thinking about buying a probe to get the best out of my future machine.


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## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19271927
> 
> 
> These are from my Oppo BDP 83.
> 
> I think the blacks are pretty good.



Those are nice pics! Could u comment on the dynamic iris noise? Is it a noisy projector overall?


If I buy this projector, its gonna be a couple feet above in my 8ft ceiling and would a like as little noise as

possible


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## eddieb187

Coolme,

I have the Blu Ray version of the Spears & Munsil and DVE.

To me the Blacks are really good. But don't forget, I upgraded from PLHC400. 720p.


eliwankenobi,

There are two settings for the Iris (Normal or High Speed).

I have it set to Normal and I sit right under and to the side of the projector on a shelf.

I did not notice any noise last night. I will check this when I have it on tonight.

I only noise I did hear was if you change the Color Mode from say Cinema to Dynamic.

You can hear the fan gear up.


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## Hagopian

Thanks!! Looks like you have to dial down the brightness....whites look a tad too bright?


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## eddieb187

Yes it's really bright. The first time I turned it on Color Mode was set to Normal.

I had my Mac Pro computer displaying and I adjusted the Zoom, Lens Shift, Focus...

When finished I brought up a webpage with a white background. Man this thing will blind you.

In Eco Mode and then Cinema Mode it was a lot better.

I just turned it on for the first time last night.

This is with Out of the Box settings.

I will leave it burn in a while before I calibrate.

I'm using a Da-Lite 106" Matte White screen. 1.0 Gain, I think.


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## eddieb187

Here's some more shots I took last night with some color.


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## eddieb187

You can really see some detail on this leopard.


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## Hagopian

Thanks...


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## jpolachak

All I can say is wow. Do you have any pictures of your room eddie187 with the lights on. I am curious if your picture looks this good w/ white walls and white ceiling. Either way that's a pretty sweet looking picture for the price.


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## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19267486
> 
> 
> I'll have some unboxing pics tonight!



ok, we are ready!














How is the setup coming along? We are anxious to hear about it!


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## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19272826
> 
> 
> All I can say is wow. Do you have any pictures of your room eddie187 with the lights on. I am curious if your picture looks this good w/ white walls and white ceiling. Either way that's a pretty sweet looking picture for the price.



Cathedral ceiling with 2 SGDs and lots of large windows.

Walls are white. Room is very bright.

Obviously I can only use the projector at night.

Which is why I chose 8350. Need the lumens.

It's a good thing I don't have a dedicated theater.

I would never come out.


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## brodskive

What is the audible noise like? I know it says 22-28dB in the manual, but can you hear it during quiet scenes? This projector seems great, but I hate noisy electronics


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## Sisyphus

Can the iris be adjusted manually and set to a fixed (not moving) position?


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## ramosma

Like the picture quality eddieb187! Nice


Will pull trigger on this projector soon - can't wait!


Suggestions on ceiling mount for the 8350? Similar to ones recommended for the 8100?


Also interested in decible volume


Thanks in advance


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## mat82284




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19273467
> 
> 
> Cathedral ceiling with 2 SGDs and lots of large windows.
> 
> Walls are white. Room is very bright.
> 
> Obviously I can only use the projector at night.
> 
> Which is why I chose 8350. Need the lumens.
> 
> It's a good thing I don't have a dedicated theater.
> 
> I would never come out.



Holy Crap!!! I wouldn't trust my projector to sit on a shelf that is held up by screws!!!


Buy this! I own it and its as strong as a TV Wall Mount!

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...5953015&sr=1-4


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## eddieb187

brodskive,

I sit right under and to the side of the projector.

I didn't notice any noise last night.

But I was pretty excited I just got it set up.

I will mute the sound tonight and see if I hear anything.


Sisyphus,

You turn the Iris off. Actually, it came from the factory with it off.

There are three settings in the on screen menu for the Iris.

Normal, High Speed, and Off.


ramosma,

I have mine on a shelf bolted to a large support beam.

Epson has a mount, but I'm sure there are after market ones just as good.

I hear Chief is pretty good.


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## dhahlen

What he has for a shelf is fine.


I have a similar shelf for my Klipsch Academy center channel, and it's a heavy beast. Has been on the shelf for over a year without problems. Not the most cosmetically pleasing, but with a huge ass speaker on it, you can barely see it.


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## eddieb187




mat82284 said:


> Holy Crap!!! I wouldn't trust my projector to sit on a shelf that is held up by screws!!!
> 
> 
> Looking at the pictures it does look a little shaky.
> 
> Those shelf brackets are bolted with pretty long screws into the beam.
> 
> I have a modular home. That's a double wall beam.
> 
> One of the main support beams for the second floor.
> 
> It's all solid wood with sheetrock over it.
> 
> The projector only weighs 16 lbs. More than adequate.
> 
> This is the third projector I've had on those brackets and shelf.
> 
> Can't mount it in the front, not enough throw then.
> 
> Wouldn't fill my screen.
> 
> Besides, how do you think the shelf you linked to is mounted? With screws.


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19271508
> 
> 
> From looking at the user guide for the 8350, its got me wondering about projector placement. Currently, my old projector sits on a TV mount (essentially a shelf) mounted to the back wall near the ceiling. I would say the lens is about 12 inches from the ceiling and the lens is about 2.5 ft above the center of the screen - so the projector has to project downward. I am wondering if the new lens shift capability is going to allow me to point the image downward enough - with the projector sitting right side up. The A-shift vs. B-Shift described in the user guide confuses me. It doesn't really explain the A-shift.



No problems await you. You still approx 35% into the Downward Shift range when the PJ is not inverted



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/19271519
> 
> 
> I was thinking it would be able to do the same downward angle like a DLP does.... Can anybody care to help out with the projector placement. I have my mount ready to go at 10" from the ceiling and my


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## thespacecowboy

I will officially be allowed to post on here when PP actually delivers mine next week! Oops. I posted already. Too late.


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ramosma* /forum/post/19273641
> 
> 
> Like the picture quality eddieb187! Nice
> 
> 
> Will pull trigger on this projector soon - can't wait!
> 
> 
> Suggestions on ceiling mount for the 8350? Similar to ones recommended for the 8100?
> 
> 
> Also interested in decible volume
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance




The best you can get ain't the most expensive...or the least. Just ideally suited for the 8350.


Chief #RPA 168 dedicated PJ ceiling Mount $139.00 @ PP or A/V Ignore the pricing on the Dell sheet.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6lid%3D1342490 


Mated to : Peerless ACC 570
http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr...ct.aspx/sp/487 $29.00


Connect the two with Schedule 40 PVC 1-1/2" pipe w/Threaded Couplings Super neat and professional looking with interior Wire drop possible within the 1-1/2" Tube.


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## dhahlen

Very excited, this is going to be a huge step up from my Optoma HD70.


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## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19274092
> 
> 
> I will officially be allowed to post on here when PP actually delivers mine next week! Oops. I posted already. Too late.



You trickster, you! We''ll be keeping a eye out for your shenanigans!


Behave yourself!


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## czubakow

Anyone have any input lag numbers for the 8350? I'm assuming that it uses the same Pixelworks PW392 processor in the 8100, which would give around 30-40ms of lag (from others' measurements). I'm planning on using this PJ mainly for video games, so every millisecond counts.


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## mat82284




eddieb187 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mat82284* /forum/post/19273857
> 
> 
> Holy Crap!!! I wouldn't trust my projector to sit on a shelf that is held up by screws!!!
> 
> 
> Looking at the pictures it does look a little shaky.
> 
> Those shelf brackets are bolted with pretty long screws into the beam.
> 
> I have a modual home. That's a double wall beam.
> 
> One of the main support beams for the second floor.
> 
> It's all solid wood with sheetrock over it.
> 
> The projector only weighs 16 lbs. More than adequate.
> 
> This is the third projector I've had on those brackets and shelf.
> 
> Can't mount it in the front, not enough throw then.
> 
> Wouldn't fill my screen.
> 
> Besides, how do you think the shelf you linked to is mounted? With screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, that one uses big 6in Bolts that bolt into your support beams in the walls. There not little tinny screws that are at most 1" long.
> 
> 
> Thats up to you if you want to use it like that. All I'm saying is that I wouldn't risk an item over 1k to some tiny screws even if it does hold it. even a little earthquake or someone running upstairs could shake those screws loose over time causing the shelf to fall. You wouldn't mount a tv on the wall with screws would you? Of Course not, even if screws could hold it up no one would trust it. Same concept here. Its not about the weight its about the value of the item that you have. It's just like a warranty, you want the projector to be covered under warranty, then why wouldn't you want to be 100% sure your shelf wont ever fall.
> 
> 
> That's just me. You can take your own risk anyway you want. I'd rather be 100% its not going to fall then 60% sure on a guess that the shelf can sustain that weight for a long time without any natural forces at work.
Click to expand...


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## spaceace414




mat82284 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19273973
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, that one uses big 6in Bolts that bolt into your support beams in the walls. There not little tinny screws that are at most 1" long.
> 
> 
> Thats up to you if you want to use it like that. All I'm saying is that I wouldn't risk an item over 1k to some tiny screws even if it does hold it. even a little earthquake or someone running upstairs could shake those screws loose over time causing the shelf to fall. You wouldn't mount a tv on the wall with screws would you? Of Course not, even if screws could hold it up no one would trust it. Same concept here. Its not about the weight its about the value of the item that you have. It's just like a warranty, you want the projector to be covered under warranty, then why wouldn't you want to be 100% sure your shelf wont ever fall.
> 
> 
> That's just me. You can take your own risk anyway you want. I'd rather be 100% its not going to fall then 60% sure on a guess that the shelf can sustain that weight for a long time without any natural forces at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude...an earthquake? I think there would be other things to worry about than the size of screws he used to mount his shelf! I think he is fine with what he has...plus he has been using it for older projectors. Remember, the projector is only 16 pounds. How can you compare hanging a TV on the wall to a small shelf holding a projector??
> 
> 
> Anyway, it is his projector and he can do what he wants. Your message comes across a little strong in my opinion.
Click to expand...


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## lin000

will be shipped out next monday. I'm not in a hurry so i picked ground shipping.


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## fargus24

Was just curious if anyone knows of a throw calculator for this yet?


Also, is anyone going to try a DIY screen with this or what are we guessing is going to be the right screen specs for it.










Looking forward to this, already saved about a grand towards the purchase







!!!!


Dedicated theater is framed up and electric is going in.


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## LucyFord

So far so good gentleman coming from a panny 900 this thing looks amazing I'll have some screenshots soon


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## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19275462
> 
> 
> So far so good gentleman coming from a panny 900 this thing looks amazing I'll have some screenshots soon



That's my projector (yes, still). Looking forward to hearing your impressions since I know what you're used to image wise.


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## Kilgore

I still haven't seen anyone say if the 8350 was 120hz or 60hz. Can someone say which?


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## bnichols

60hz


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## LucyFord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19275513
> 
> 
> That's my projector (yes, still). Looking forward to hearing your impressions since I know what you're used to image wise.



The colors, the depth, the blacks, the sharpness is a world of difference. I can't wait until somebody posts since calibration settings. Right out of the box the proj is pretty damn, nice!


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## Trogdor2010

Hello.


I have a question about the new Epson projectors (namely the one posted), does this projector offer a V stretch mode? I have a DIY lens and have been watching movies in my Infocus x10, which lacking that feature would be a deal breaker for me (until I get an oppo). I am also interested if they still offered the ultra bright "dynamic" modes, since I heard they can go up to 2000 "real" lumens while looking good, which I may plan on making a large screen (some say it can power 25 foot wide screens).


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## Davinleeds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bnichols* /forum/post/19275670
> 
> 
> 60hz



I thought I saw differently, but so far can't find. But if true... No sale.


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## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19275923
> 
> 
> The colors, the depth, the blacks, the sharpness is a world of difference. I can't wait until somebody posts since calibration settings. Right out of the box the proj is pretty damn, nice!



How about the brightness? And what mode did you start with? Just take your time and tell us everything.


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## n01un0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LucyFord* /forum/post/19275923
> 
> 
> The colors, the depth, the blacks, the sharpness is a world of difference. I can't wait until somebody posts since calibration settings. Right out of the box the proj is pretty damn, nice!



The real question is how does the Madden look you intended to play all day, LOL


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## AVRoberts

My 8350 showed up this afternoon and I've been enjoying it for the last few hours. My screen hasn't arrived yet, so I'm just displaying on my yellow painted drywall. It looked so good, my wife asked why I was buying a screen! This is our first projector, so I won't attempt to give any kind of review. But I will say that I'm quite impressed. I tried watching some HD Hockey, Baseball, and College Football. This will make one hell of a SuperBowl projector!! Even with some ambient light, the picture looked surprisingly bright to me. Looking forward to getting the projector mounted tomorrow as I can't stand having it sit on a piano bench. No buyer's remorse for me!!


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## LucyFord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19276110
> 
> 
> How about the brightness? And what mode did you start with? Just take your time and tell us everything.



Brightness is awesome! Can see a decent pic with the lights on. I've left it in cinema mode and it looks really good to me like I said though once we get somebody to calibrate it,i think its really gonna shine.


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## LucyFord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n01un0* /forum/post/19276279
> 
> 
> The real question is how does the Madden look you intended to play all day, LOL



Madden looks awesome the graphics are crap not the proj fault but madden on 126" is pretty sweet.


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## simon_templar_32

Does the "motion detection" feature (page 38 of manual) have any noticeable effect?


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## eddieb187

A few people asked about iris and fan noise.

I can tell you it is whisper quiet. No Iris noise.

I'm sitting right under the projector and cannot hear anything.

The Bulb mode is now called "Power Consumption". Normal and Eco choices.

I have the Bulb in Eco Mode and Cinema Color Mode chosen.

Just now I tried the other Color Modes such as Natural, Living Rm, and Dynamic and I still don't hear the fan.

To hear the fan I have to stand right in front of the projector where the heat comes out and take it out of Eco Mode and into Normal and then I hear the fan.

Even then it is still fairly quiet.

I have the audio muted now so that's pretty good.

With a movie playing even quiet sceens you won't hear it.

I could hear the fan with my Epson PLHC400 if I put it in any of the color modes above Theater Black. The 8350 is much quieter.


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## andrios

With 2k lumens is this thing really brighter than the LG181d?


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## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19276985
> 
> 
> With 2k lumens is this thing really brighter than the LG181d?



Calibrated correctly? I'd be surprised if it was, but I don't know.


Personally, and off topic, I'm still wondering why the 8700 is rated 400 lumens lower than the 8350 with the same bulb...unless it's targeted squarely at enthusiasts with completely light controlled rooms and these two projectors are more different than the 8100 and 8500 were.


----------



## Adidas4275

i am a 720HC owner and just bought a new bulb for mine....


but this price point is almost identical to what i paid for the 720HC almost 1 1/2 years ago.


This definitely has my interest.



I must have a white cabinet PJ as it is the only way it looks decent in a living room setup like mine.


----------



## Browninggold




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19276540
> 
> 
> A few people asked about iris and fan noise.
> 
> I can tell you it is whisper quiet. No Iris noise.
> 
> I'm sitting right under the projector and cannot hear anything.
> 
> The Bulb mode is now called "Power Consumption". Normal and Eco choices.
> 
> I have the Bulb in Eco Mode and Cinema Color Mode chosen.
> 
> Just now I tried the other Color Modes such as Natural, Living Rm, and Dynamic and I still don't hear the fan.
> 
> To hear the fan I have to stand right in front of the projector where the heat comes out and take it out of Eco Mode and into Normal and then I hear the fan.
> 
> Even then it is still fairly quiet.
> 
> I have the audio muted now so that's pretty good.
> 
> With a movie playing even quiet sceens you won't hear it.
> 
> I could hear the fan with my Epson PLHC400 if I put it in any of the color modes above Theater Black. The 8350 is much quieter.



eddie are you usimg a white or grey screen?


----------



## Davinleeds

Ok, for hdmi 1080p 24/30/50/60hz


and it's at amazon


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/19278374
> 
> 
> eddie are you usimg a white or grey screen?



Not Grey.

I'm using a Da-Lite Model B with CSR.

It's Matte White and I think the Gain is 1.0.

And it's 106" diagonal screen.

My throw is just under 12'.

Can't do a bigger screen at this distance.

I tried one of those Optoma GrayWolf screens awhile back.

I think I had the Panasonic AE900U at the time.

It did help with blacks and contrast.

But I thought it made the colors a little muddy.

Didn't like it. Still have it though.


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Davinleeds* /forum/post/19278491
> 
> 
> Ok, for hdmi 1080p 24/30/50/60hz
> 
> 
> and it's at amazon



It is still only through 3rd party Via amazon.com right now. I have already purchased a $1300 Gift Gard @ amazon and will get back $150 through rewards and the gift card promotion right now







.


I am just waiting for Amazon.com itself to get stock. Oh yeah, and I have prime so 1 day shipping


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19278519
> 
> 
> Not Grey.
> 
> I'm using a Da-Lite Model B with CSR.
> 
> It's Matte White and I think the Gain is 1.0.
> 
> And it's 106" diagonal screen.
> 
> My throw is just under 12'.
> 
> Can't do a bigger screen at this distance.
> 
> I tried one of those Optoma GrayWolf screens awhile back.
> 
> I think I had the Panasonic AE900U at the time.
> 
> It did help with blacks and contrast.
> 
> But I thought it made the colors a little muddy.
> 
> Didn't like it. Still have it though.



How would you compare this Epson to the 900 you had?


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19278651
> 
> 
> How would you compare this Epson to the 900 you had?



I have not used the AE900U in a really long time.

Picture went Red on me a couple of years back.

I bought an Epson HC400 after the AE900U and before the 8350.

Just moving from 720p to 1080p is quite a noticable difference.

And to my eyes this 8350 is a huge improvement.

Makes the whites on my previous Pj look yellow in comparison.

It's much brighter, blacks are way better, and colors pop more.

I notice a lot more fine detail in the image especially with Blu Ray.

I don't think you would notice the difference between 720p and 1080p as much on a small screen as you do with a projector and large screen.

Don't forget, a 720p frame has roughly about 1 million pixels.

Compared to it, a 1080p frame has 2 million pixels.

You are seeing twice the amount of pixels now.

I really notice the difference when I use my Mac Pro.

The text was a little small at first but you can adjust that.

But the image, especially when I play a 1080p movie trailer with Quicktime is just amazing.

Once seen you will never go back.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19278736
> 
> 
> I have not used the AE900U in a really long time.
> 
> Picture went Red on me a couple of years back.
> 
> I bought an Epson HC400 after the AE900U and before the 8350.
> 
> Just moving from 720p to 1080p is quite a noticable difference.
> 
> And to my eyes this 8350 is a huge improvement.
> 
> Makes the whites on my previous Pj look yellow in comparison.
> 
> It's much brighter, blacks are way better, and colors pop more.
> 
> I notice a lot more fine detail in the image especially with Blu Ray.
> 
> I don't think you would notice the difference between 720p and 1080p as much on a small screen as you do with a projector and large screen.
> 
> Don't forget, a 720p frame has roughly about 1 million pixels.
> 
> Compared to it, a 1080p frame has 2 million pixels.
> 
> You are seeing twice the amount of pixels now.
> 
> I really notice the difference when I use my Mac Pro.
> 
> The text was a little small at first but you can adjust that.
> 
> But the image, especially when I play a 1080p movie trailer with Quicktime is just amazing.
> 
> Once seen you will never go back.



Thanks for the input.


----------



## ahard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19276985
> 
> 
> With 2k lumens is this thing really brighter than the LG181d?



Highly, highly doubt it. Remember that the LG is rated at 2500 which it doesn't achieve pre or post calibration. The 8350 is similar to the 8100 in terms of lumens. Calibrated the 8100 produced something like 460 lumens in best mode (Theater 1/normal lamp) and 340ish in low lamp in best mode mid zoom and 560 in normal lamp mode at wide angle (zoom out). The 8350 won't produce substantially more.


The LG when calibrated produced lumens in the mid-800s.


----------



## Browninggold

Would this screen work for the 8350. Room is roughly 15x25x8 seating first row around 10 ft back projector would be 15 ft or so back ceiling mounted. There is a front stage area picture in my profile. Elite TE120HW2-A1080 CineTension2 Acoustic Series - 120" Diag. (58.8"x104.5") - Tensioned Electric Screen - 16:9 HDTV Format - 1.0 Gain - A1080 Material with Black Case - Includes IR & RF Remote Controls and 3-Way Wall Switch


----------



## Vao

according to projectorcentral the projector has Anamorphic Ready! Is that true?


----------



## BBQ7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19279398
> 
> 
> according to projectorcentral the projector has Anamorphic Ready! Is that true?



I can only find the anamorphic ready mode confirmed for the 8700.


The screen shots posted look amazing for a $1200 projector, I didn't expect that at all (hope it's not the camera making the images look blacker etc.).


Also would love to hear anything about gaming on this, lag/delay. I'm guessing they didn't include a game mode to disable video processing?


Last, is this a plastic or glass lens?


----------



## n01un0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/19279640
> 
> 
> 
> Last, is this a plastic or glass lens?



The OptiCinema lens system is a precision, high-quality,

optical grade system. Co-developed with Fujinon, a

top supplier of precision camera optics to the world’s

leading HD camera makers, this system offers excellent

picture uniformity and clarity across the screen. This lens

system also provides precision focus with a 2.1x zoom

ratio. And, it delivers maximum installation flexibility with

96% vertical and 47% horizontal lens shift (without image

distortion).

Taken from....
http://www.epson.com/cmc_upload/0/00..._ProdSpecs.pdf 


It doesnt say specifically but I am guessing optical grade would be glass.


I looked at the users manual too and it doesnt say anything about a gaming mode.
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## Trogdor2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trogdor2010* /forum/post/19276022
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> I have a question about the new Epson projectors (namely the one posted), does this projector offer a V stretch mode? I have a DIY lens and have been watching movies in my Infocus x10, which lacking that feature would be a deal breaker for me (until I get an oppo). I am also interested if they still offered the ultra bright "dynamic" modes, since I heard they can go up to 2000 "real" lumens while looking good, which I may plan on making a large screen (some say it can power 25 foot wide screens).



An answer to this question would be greatly appreaciated. The projector should just offer a picture mode that stretches the image to fill it up for scope (2.35:1) films. I am not interested in the zoom method.


Thank you.


----------



## Shag

For someone looking to watch a good amount of sports, and play video games on a PJ, how big a deal is it that this PJ is only 60hz?


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19272802
> 
> 
> EddieB...what kind of screen to you have? Thanks...



Sorry I didn't see your question in the title and the thread moved to page two.

I'm using a Da-Lite Model B with CSR.

It's Matte White and I think the Gain is 1.0.

And it's 106" diagonal screen.


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19281463
> 
> 
> For someone looking to watch a good amount of sports, and play video games on a PJ, how big a deal is it that this PJ is only 60hz?



Well I have played video games semi-professionally on a 60Hz tv's/monitors for years. I am still not sold on 120Hz. I would just ensure that the input lag is not horrible on the projector. The 8100 was fine on this. I have not seen any tests yet on the input lag of the 8350.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *czubakow* /forum/post/19274145
> 
> 
> Anyone have any input lag numbers for the 8350? I'm assuming that it uses the same Pixelworks PW392 processor in the 8100, which would give around 30-40ms of lag (from others' measurements). I'm planning on using this PJ mainly for video games, so every millisecond counts.



Anyone have an answer for this? I'm wondering the same thing. (it's understandable that the people who have this projector right now don't have equipment to do accurate tests though)


----------



## hayatiakbas

If there are any 8350 owners out there who also owned 8100. Can you please make a comparison? I just ordered 8350 and will be here on friday but I found clearance sale 8100 for less than $1000. is it worth extra $200? I paid $1199 for 8350. blacks and picture is better? I could save little more with 8100 but I think they have a bulb issue. 2 of them I owned bulb blow up within 700-800 hours even though I cleaned the filters always.


----------



## mat82284




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19283873
> 
> 
> If there are any 8350 owners out there who also owned 8100. Can you please make a comparison? I just ordered 8350 and will be here on friday but I found clearance sale 8100 for less than $1000. is it worth extra $200? I paid $1199 for 8350. blacks and picture is better? I could save little more with 8100 but I think they have a bulb issue. 2 of them I owned bulb blow up within 700-800 hours even though I cleaned the filters always.



Its worth the extra money in the panels alone. Your getting Inorganic D7 panels (same ones used in the better 6500/8500ub projectors, the 8100 has Organic panels that are not D7.


----------



## hayatiakbas

Thanks buddy. I can't wait to power it up


----------



## Vao

According to epson.com - _# Compatible with 4:3 and 16:9 video formats *(with anamorphic lens and scaler)* with Normal, Full or Zoom Modes_


so it has anamorphic lens! Please can someone record video how this lens working?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19283873
> 
> 
> If there are any 8350 owners out there who also owned 8100. Can you please make a comparison? I just ordered 8350 and will be here on friday but I found clearance sale 8100 for less than $1000. is it worth extra $200? I paid $1199 for 8350. blacks and picture is better? I could save little more with 8100 but I think they have a bulb issue. 2 of them I owned bulb blow up within 700-800 hours even though I cleaned the filters always.



Please relate where you got the 8350 for $1199.00????










Was that a Typo?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19284551
> 
> 
> According to epson.com - _# Compatible with 4:3 and 16:9 video formats *(with anamorphic lens and scaler)* with Normal, Full or Zoom Modes_
> 
> 
> so it has anamorphic lens! Please can someone record video how this lens working?



No Vao....


It has a feature that makes it work well *"With the addition of"* an anamorphic lens.


sorry......


----------



## coiner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19283873
> 
> 
> If there are any 8350 owners out there who also owned 8100. Can you please make a comparison? I just ordered 8350 and will be here on friday but I found clearance sale 8100 for less than $1000. is it worth extra $200? I paid $1199 for 8350. blacks and picture is better? I could save little more with 8100 but I think they have a bulb issue. 2 of them I owned bulb blow up within 700-800 hours even though I cleaned the filters always.



Slightly OT, but where can the 8100 be had for under 1K?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coiner* /forum/post/19284787
> 
> 
> Slightly OT, but where can the 8100 be had for under 1K?



Reconditioned...perhaps. I've been scouring the Engines and forums for 8100's and other lessor cost Entry Level 1080p's or 720p units" and haven't found anything under $999.00 worth a Hoot ( Optoma HD-20s' notwithstanding )


I did see a Optoma unit called "120"...a re-badged-re-labeled HD-20 for $899.00 for sale yesterday at a popular "Member's Buying Club" that whose name must/will remain unmentioned.










Off Topic...even for the "Thread Starter? Nope...because if you can spend just $400.00 more and get 50K:1 contrast and 2K lumens with the 8350, where's the decision? better to wait if the price is the issue and save for a few more weeks. It's that good....and that big a difference performance and feature wise.


....with all due respect due to any/all HD-20 owners. Of course.


----------



## sb1

Anyone see any issues pairing this projector with a 133" High Power screen?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19285330
> 
> 
> Anyone see any issues pairing this projector with a 133" High Power screen?



Keep it on "low lamp' and place the PJ optimally "height to viewing level" to maintain that brightness and avoid any potential lamp Hot Spotting.


Should look PDG!


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19285431
> 
> 
> Keep it on "low lamp' and place the PJ optimally "height to viewing level" to maintain that brightness and avoid any potential lamp Hot Spotting.
> 
> 
> Should look PDG!



Thanks. I'm using a smaller HP now, I just want to go bigger and get a new projector to go along with it.


----------



## thespacecowboy

its Monday, and PP SHOULD be getting my stock in today I hope. My new mount it ready to go. My HDMI inputs a positively buzzing (figuratively speaking) at the prospect. I've told them all to chill out but their excitement is clear.


----------



## Spasticteapot

I'm pondering buying one of these. Any thoughts on screen choices? Am I better off with a laminate or some sort of paint?


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19284591
> 
> 
> No Vao....
> 
> 
> It has a feature that makes it work well *"With the addition of"* an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> sorry......



neah... it was too good to be true


----------



## Dogllama

just received an email from my contact at PP. their entire shipment of 8350 units was stolen on Friday. they stole the whole truck!


he assured me things were ok though because epson is now drop shipping my unit. who knew the mafia was so into projectors?!


----------



## Trogdor2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19284591
> 
> 
> No Vao....
> 
> 
> It has a feature that makes it work well *"With the addition of"* an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> sorry......



I am getting confused here. I have been trying to ask about this, but does this projector feature a v stretch mode for anamorphic lens set ups (I DIY one) and would appreciate it if someone can give it to me straight. I am not interested in the zoom method or some other weird method.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19286011
> 
> 
> just received an email from my contact at PP. their entire shipment of 8350 units was stolen on Friday. they stole the whole truck!
> 
> 
> he assured me things were ok though because epson is now drop shipping my unit. who knew the mafia was so into projectors?!



I cant help to wonder if this related in any way to the lower price of the 8350's a previous poster mentioned! These will have to show up somewhere!


----------



## bengele




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trogdor2010* /forum/post/19286274
> 
> 
> I am getting confused here. I have been trying to ask about this, but does this projector feature a v stretch mode for anamorphic lens set ups (I DIY one) and would appreciate it if someone can give it to me straight. I am not interested in the zoom method or some other weird method.



I have been wondering the same thing. In the manual it looks like the aspect ratio setting that is needed is called "Anamorphic Wide" but it also looks like it is only available on the 8700UB. Can anyone with a 8350 confirm if this setting exists on the 8350 or not?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trogdor2010* /forum/post/19286274
> 
> 
> I am getting confused here. I have been trying to ask about this, but does this projector feature a v stretch mode for anamorphic lens set ups (I DIY one) and would appreciate it if someone can give it to me straight. I am not interested in the zoom method or some other weird method.



Let me clarify.


The V Stretch mode is ONLY a method that at first "Vertically distorts" the image, allowing for the correction of the opposite "Horizontal distortion" the A-Len's itself produces.


This essentially equalizes everything out to present a normal looking image.


There is no technical, software, or magical method employed by ANY PJ currently in the Consumer Domain that can actually transform 16:9 imagery into 2.35:1 without introducing a distorted image. Only expensive "out board" Image Processors can do that, and those items are not something to be construed as being affordable by any stretch.


To date, the only "Lens-less" options exist in those PJs that employ Lens Memory that simply adjusts Zoom and Lens Shift to allow the use of a 2.35:1 formatted Screen, so that 16:9 can be shown at the same "Height" as 2.35:1, and vice versa. ie: CHI = Constant Image Height.


This feature is more for the benefit of those wishing to see 2.35:1 / 2.39:1 content as WIDE as possible, and sacrificing potential extra screen width in 16:9 to do so. In 16:9, there will be Vertical "Bars" something FAR easier to deal with and Mask iut with Panels or Curtains. Horizontal Bars are way more difficult, and a primary reason those without a A-Lens or Lens Memory spend Beau-coup Bucks on Motorized Masking Systems, or make up imaginative DIY versions.


That is that...and it ain't ever gonna be otherwise until some PJ Mfg steps up and introduces the Hardware and Software required to do it "electronically".


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19286351
> 
> 
> I cant help to wonder if this related in any way to the lower price of the 8350's a previous poster mentioned! These will have to show up somewhere!



If it is...it will come out when they try to register the warranty.


Owwwwww..........










Chances are the PJs just happened to be aboard a Truck that got snatched...they were not the Target themselves. In any case the Goodfellas involved will probably keep them entrenched firmly in the "Trunk-market" venue.


Hey Vinny! Wassammatter wit'cha? How's am'mI-a-gonna unload 'dese frickin' 'tings!


----------



## thespacecowboy

Stolen!!!! Meh. PP is showing as in stock. So Epson must have flown them over or something. They'd better have anyway!



> Quote:
> Hey Vinny! Wassammatter wit'cha? How's am'mI-a-gonna unload 'dese frickin' 'tings!



More like...


"Hey Vinny - didn't cha mean to steal the 8700s? Don't you know they have better blacks and project pictures in ambient light more effectively"


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19286936
> 
> 
> Stolen!!!! Meh. PP is showing as in stock. So Epson must have flown them over or something. They'd better have anyway!



The guy I spoke with said they were still expecting some in today or tomorrow (not counting the supposed stolen shipment), but I have no idea whether or not they actually have them there now.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19286998
> 
> 
> The guy I spoke with said they were still expecting some in today or tomorrow (not counting the supposed stolen shipment), but I have no idea whether or not they actually have them there now.



I need to call my contact then. I want mine to arrive soon.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19287114
> 
> 
> I need to call my contact then. I want mine to arrive soon.



Just called and mine is shipping out today! nice~

Glad that I returned my 8100 and get the new one. Although I got great price on that unit as an open item.


Update: Shipped via three-day shippin'.


----------



## tamuag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19274115
> 
> 
> The best you can get ain't the most expensive...or the least. Just ideally suited for the 8350.
> 
> 
> Chief #RPA 168 dedicated PJ ceiling Mount $139.00 @ PP or A/V Ignore the pricing on the Dell sheet.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6lid%3D1342490
> 
> 
> Mated to : Peerless ACC 570
> http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr...ct.aspx/sp/487 $29.00
> 
> 
> Connect the two with Schedule 40 PVC 1-1/2" pipe w/Threaded Couplings Super neat and professional looking with interior Wire drop possible within the 1-1/2" Tube.



Just ordered the 8350, an RPA 168 mount, and Peerless ACC 570 ceiling plate from PP. MM, thanks for the mount/plate recommendation.


We are moving into our new home this week where I have a dedicated media room, so I'm hoping to have everything in hand, installed, and set up by Saturday for college football.


BTW, PP had 24 of the 8350 in stock when I ordered.


----------



## fitbrit

Get yer Epsons here. $800, folks. They're worth $8350 -says so right on the box. I gotta truckload of these to shift.


----------



## Trogdor2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19286638
> 
> 
> Let me clarify.
> 
> 
> The V Stretch mode is ONLY a method that at first "Vertically distorts" the image, allowing for the correction of the opposite "Horizontal distortion" the A-Len's itself produces.
> 
> 
> This essentially equalizes everything out to present a normal looking image.
> 
> 
> There is no technical, software, or magical method employed by ANY PJ currently in the Consumer Domain that can actually transform 16:9 imagery into 2.35:1 without introducing a distorted image. Only expensive "out board" Image Processors can do that, and those items are not something to be construed as being affordable by any stretch.
> 
> 
> To date, the only "Lens-less" options exist in those PJs that employ Lens Memory that simply adjusts Zoom and Lens Shift to allow the use of a 2.35:1 formatted Screen, so that 16:9 can be shown at the same "Height" as 2.35:1, and vice versa. ie: CHI = Constant Image Height.
> 
> 
> This feature is more for the benefit of those wishing to see 2.35:1 / 2.39:1 content as WIDE as possible, and sacrificing potential extra screen width in 16:9 to do so. In 16:9, there will be Vertical "Bars" something FAR easier to deal with and Mask iut with Panels or Curtains. Horizontal Bars are way more difficult, and a primary reason those without a A-Lens or Lens Memory spend Beau-coup Bucks on Motorized Masking Systems, or make up imaginative DIY versions.
> 
> 
> That is that...and it ain't ever gonna be otherwise until some PJ Mfg steps up and introduces the Hardware and Software required to do it "electronically".



Thank you for your response.


Yes I know that an anamorphic lens distorts the image the projector distorts to make it look correct. The reason I asked was that the older Epson projectors lacked a V stretch mode that was only available in their hgiher end models (but is present in most consumer projectors, even my dirt cheap Infocus x10). I was interested in the epson for their features they offer for a bargain (and inorganic panels are plus).


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19284583
> 
> 
> Please relate where you got the 8350 for $1199.00????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was that a Typo?



Electronics-expo.com

put it in the chart and write"DEALSOFAMERICA" and the price is even lower at $1165 right now.they have a storewide discount on everything so its not especially for Epson 8350


and for the Epson 8100 Bestbuy Stores are selling it on Clearance right now. even though it is not on sale on the website. go to a store and it is $970 some stores sell it for $1060 so you gotta tell them to match it with other Bestbuys. they can look at the price of the stores selling for $970 and you can go and buy from them or they will match it.

Good luck guys. I bought the 8350 for $1199 now it is for $1165. my luck


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coiner* /forum/post/19284787
> 
> 
> Slightly OT, but where can the 8100 be had for under 1K?



Check out my other post


----------



## Dogllama




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19287449
> 
> 
> Electronics-expo.com
> 
> put it in the chart and write"DEALSOFAMERICA" and the price is even lower at $1165 right now.they have a storewide discount on everything so its not especially for Epson 8350)



Dang, wish I had seen this a few days ago. Great deal!


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19287514
> 
> 
> Dang, wish I had seen this a few days ago. Great deal!



electronics-expo lists not-in-stock goods as in-stock a lot. I won't be surprised if they email you after two days indicating that it'll be another week. It happened to me before.


----------



## mellamojosh

Quote:

Originally Posted by hayatiakbas

Electronics-expo.com

put it in the chart and write"DEALSOFAMERICA" and the price is even lower at $1165 right now.they have a storewide discount on everything so its not especially for Epson 8350)


I just checked out the promo code. In fact, the 8350 rung up for $1165.72! Since I haven't done business with them before, though, I decided to do my due diligence. I looked up Electronics Expo on the Better Business Bureau's site. I almost wish I hadn't. BBB gives them a grade of "C". I also noticed that others had complained about Electronics Expo advertising goods they don't have in stock, only to email them later, asking for confirmation that the buyer wanted to go ahead with a different unit (maybe the 8100?). I also read about buyers receiving defective merchandise and being charged a 20% restocking fee. I'd love to pick up the 8350 for $1165...I'm just a little unsure about an electronics store based in "JOYzee" with a crappy BBB rating. Anybody had good luck buying a PJ from them?


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19288250
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by hayatiakbas
> 
> Electronics-expo.com
> 
> put it in the chart and write"DEALSOFAMERICA" and the price is even lower at $1165 right now.they have a storewide discount on everything so its not especially for Epson 8350)
> 
> 
> I just checked out the promo code. In fact, the 8350 rung up for $1165.72! Since I haven't done business with them before, though, I decided to do my due diligence. I looked up Electronics Expo on the Better Business Bureau's site. I almost wish I hadn't. BBB gives them a grade of "C". I also noticed that others had complained about Electronics Expo advertising goods they don't have in stock, only to email them later, asking for confirmation that the buyer wanted to go ahead with a different unit (maybe the 8100?). I also read about buyers receiving defective merchandise and being charged a 20% restocking fee. I'd love to pick up the 8350 for $1165...I'm just a little unsure about an electronics store based in "JOYzee" with a crappy BBB rating. Anybody had good luck buying a PJ from them?



i've not done business with them. But my strong preference is to go with vendors I either know and trust, or one that many many ppl know and trust.


i bought my 5D Mk ii and could have saved $100 buying it from some smaller unknown NY company. But I went with a name I trusted, even though it cost me a little more.


----------



## hayatiakbas

I will let you guys know my experience with them. They sell on amazon as well and they have a very good rating that's why I bought from them.


----------



## hayatiakbas

I bought on the phone with assurance that its on stock. they will ship tomorrow. let's see.


----------



## foofoobar

Apologies if someone already posted this, but here's a rave review of the PJ with an Editor's choice award to boot. Apparently, it's bound give the AE4000 a lot to think about:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm


----------



## Dogllama




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foofoobar* /forum/post/19288843
> 
> 
> Apologies if someone already posted this, but here's a rave review of the PJ with an Editor's choice award to boot. Apparently, it's bound give the AE4000 a lot to think about:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm



Great review, now I am more excited than ever to receive my 8350! Especially since this glowing review came from PC (which has been called biased towards Panasonic before).


Also interesting was that Evan measured the dynamic mode lumen output as less than the 8100 (1507 versus mid 1700s), even though the specs give it a 200 lumen edge. Anyone know why this might be?


----------



## Shag

I was hoping that this would show up on Amazon for Prime and Amazon's return policy, but no such luck yet. I'm getting impatient, so may just pull the trigger here soon. Having never purchased a PJ, is there a preference on Projector People vs Visual Apex?


For those buying the Chief mount, is the RPA-U the same as the RPA 168 mentioned by MM? I have nearly 9' ceilings, so I'm not sure I'd really care about a low profile mount - given that, is the Chief still the best option? Do people typically pair a white mount with a white PJ (interior design is not my strength, lol)?


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19288954
> 
> 
> I was hoping that this would show up on Amazon for Prime and Amazon's return policy, but no such luck yet. I'm getting impatient, so may just pull the trigger here soon. Having never purchased a PJ, is there a preference on Projector People vs Visual Apex?
> 
> 
> For those buying the Chief mount, is the RPA-U the same as the RPA 168 mentioned by MM? I have nearly 9' ceilings, so I'm not sure I'd really care about a low profile mount - given that, is the Chief still the best option? Do people typically pair a white mount with a white PJ (interior design is not my strength, lol)?




I am refreshing the Amazon.com page 10 times a day too







.


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foofoobar* /forum/post/19288843
> 
> 
> Apologies if someone already posted this, but here's a rave review of the PJ with an Editor's choice award to boot. Apparently, it's bound give the AE4000 a lot to think about:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm



That is one great review! I can't wait to get my hands on this projector!


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19284591
> 
> 
> No Vao....
> 
> 
> It has a feature that makes it work well *"With the addition of"* an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> sorry......



Does this mean there is no point of getting a 2.35:1 screen to be used on this FP unless you buy an anamorphic lens? Can't you stretch it manually?


Thanks.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neworder59* /forum/post/19289028
> 
> 
> Does this mean there is no point of getting a 2.35:1 screen to be used on this FP unless you buy an anamorphic lens? Can't you stretch it manually?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You don't "stretch"...you manually Zoom out/in and Shift down/up to fill the Screen in either mode. That is what the "Lens memory" feature on the panny 4000 does automatically. You will have excess unused "over-scan in 2.35:1 Top and bottom, but if the background is dark, the PJ itself projects a lack of light that is very hard to ascertain.


----------



## neworder59

Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foofoobar* /forum/post/19288843
> 
> 
> Apologies if someone already posted this, but here's a rave review of the PJ with an Editor's choice award to boot. Apparently, it's bound give the AE4000 a lot to think about:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm



I just happened to read it right after it was posted. This shouldn't be too surprising, though, since I've been scouring the internet daily in search of the first, somewhat meaty review (apologies to Art). I was beyond pleased with the review Bill did. However, I was somewhat bummed at the light output measurement he collected.


My Panny 900 has 2000+ hours on it. Since I've gotten married and moved to a new home my needs have changed. In the new place I throw the image across the living room with a decent bit of ambient light. My Panny's bulb is fading fast so instead of buying a new bulb I convinced the wife that it would be better to just get a new PJ. She's in










Anyway...Bill measured just over 1500 lumens during his review. Epson boasts that they measure the 8350's 2000 lumens with a tougher ISO standard instead of the ANSI.


What gives??? (I don't want to pull the trigger only to have my wife not trust my AV decisions...gotta set a good foundation dont'cha'know).


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19288954
> 
> 
> I was hoping that this would show up on Amazon for Prime and Amazon's return policy, but no such luck yet. I'm getting impatient, so may just pull the trigger here soon. Having never purchased a PJ, is there a preference on Projector People vs Visual Apex?
> 
> 
> For those buying the Chief mount, is the RPA-U the same as the RPA 168 mentioned by MM? I have nearly 9' ceilings, so I'm not sure I'd really care about a low profile mount - given that, is the Chief still the best option? Do people typically pair a white mount with a white PJ (interior design is not my strength, lol)?



Thumbs up for Proj People. I've done business with them since '06 and never ever had a bad experience. In fact, I've always had superior experiences with them...sales and customer service (had the same rep since my first purchase in '06). I haven't done business with Apex so can't speak to them one way or another.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19288445
> 
> 
> i've not done business with them. But my strong preference is to go with vendors I either know and trust, or one that many many ppl know and trust.
> 
> 
> i bought my 5D Mk ii and could have saved $100 buying it from some smaller unknown NY company. But I went with a name I trusted, even though it cost me a little more.



Agreed. Proj People has always done me right and been very helpful along the way...not to say that the $1165 isn't still a little tempting


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19289366
> 
> 
> Agreed. Proj People has always done me right and been very helpful along the way...not to say that the $1165 isn't still a little tempting



same here for me. I just dealed with pp the first time last week. Can't be better. My rep even upgraded my shipping to a 3day shipping for free.


----------



## vegashomes

Does the lens shift allow for positioning above the top of the screen?


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vegashomes* /forum/post/19289608
> 
> 
> Does the lens shift allow for positioning above the top of the screen?



sure


----------



## sajandrew

Okay, I want to get some advice before I pull the trigger on the 8350...


I currently have an AE900 throwing a 106" into a screen 16' away. The room is a dedicated theater room, 100% light controlled, with all of the walls near the screen painted flat black. My Panny has about 1500 hours on the bulb, and the picture seems dim to me. I was contemplating a new bulb, or a new projector.


Is it safe to assume, with the Epson having almost twice the lumens as my Panny, that it will look much brighter than my Panny with a new bulb? Is 16' too far of a throw? I know it will throw a 100" image like 20', but would I be better off moving the unit closer to the screen? I could do it, but it wouldn't be easy. It's ceilin mounted over the second row of seating. I did it that way so that you would never see it in your peripheral vision while watching a movie. If the Epson will be plenty bright from that distance, then I'd rather leave it there.


I have a feeling the picture difference will be pretty dramatic between the Epaon and the Panny, I just want to make sure I am thinking about this correctly before I actually pull the trigger.


I am also using a Dalite HCCV screen, it was paired with the Panny when I bought it all from Projector People...I assume it will still be a decent match for the Epson? From what I remember, it was sort of a neutral screen choice.


Thanks,

Andy


----------



## davyo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajandrew* /forum/post/19289938
> 
> 
> Okay, I want to get some advice before I pull the trigger on the 8350...
> 
> 
> I currently have an AE900 throwing a 106" into a screen 16' away. The room is a dedicated theater room, 100% light controlled, with all of the walls near the screen painted flat black. My Panny has about 1500 hours on the bulb, and the picture seems dim to me. I was contemplating a new bulb, or a new projector.
> 
> 
> Is it safe to assume, with the Epson having almost twice the lumens as my Panny, that it will look much brighter than my Panny with a new bulb? Is 16' too far of a throw? I know it will throw a 100" image like 20', but would I be better off moving the unit closer to the screen? I could do it, but it wouldn't be easy. It's ceilin mounted over the second row of seating. I did it that way so that you would never see it in your peripheral vision while watching a movie. If the Epson will be plenty bright from that distance, then I'd rather leave it there.
> 
> 
> I have a feeling the picture difference will be pretty dramatic between the Epaon and the Panny, I just want to make sure I am thinking about this correctly before I actually pull the trigger.
> 
> 
> I am also using a Dalite HCCV screen, it was paired with the Panny when I bought it all from Projector People...I assume it will still be a decent match for the Epson? From what I remember, it was sort of a neutral screen choice.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Andy



At 16' you will be fine with the 8350, I had my 8100 ceiling mounted at 13' from my 110" screen and it was plenty bright,, (I returned my 8100 last week to get the 8350), have not ordered the 8350 yet.


As far as your AE900,,, yes, the 8350 will be a big jump in PQ over the AE900.

I had an AE900 (and all the AE's before that) I also had the AX100 and AX200 and those were very big jumps in PQ over my AE900,,,,, going from an AE900 to an Epson 8350 will be a huge jump in PQ,,, and brightness as well.


Cheers

Davyo


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19289962
> 
> 
> At 16' you will be fine with the 8350, I had my 8100 ceiling mounted at 13' from my 110" screen and it was plenty bright,, (I returned my 8100 last week to get the 8350), have not ordered the 8350 yet.
> 
> 
> As far as your AE900,,, yes, the 8350 will be a big jump in PQ over the AE900.
> 
> I had an AE900 (and all the AE's before that) I also had the AX100 and AX200 and those were very big jumps in PQ over my AE900,,,,, going from an AE900 to an Epson 8350 will be a huge jump in PQ,,, and brightness as well.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



Thanks Davyo. I was actually considering the AX200, as a friend of mine bought one last year and the picture looked very good and bright, from about 15' away with ambient light. There is zero ambient light in my room, so I am hoping the 8350 will look good from 16'. I seem to remember my AE900 being brighter, so it may just be the bulb dimming. However, if I can sell my AE900 for a few hundred dollars, and then the $300 or so I save from not buying a bulb...I'd only be in the 8350 for about $600....seems like a no brainer.


Hopefully I'll be ordering the 8350 here in a couple days, need to see what my AE900 goes for.


Andy


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vegashomes* /forum/post/19289608
> 
> 
> Does the lens shift allow for positioning above the top of the screen?




Absolutely. The 8350's Lens Shift is capable of going 2x the screen's height from the neutral position. (.45 width Right & Left) You could watch the image on the Floor!


It's the widest adjust-ability of ANY PJ there is currently on the Market. It has the widest variable Focal Throw distance as well.


But all you really want to do is about .5 to .75 x height. More will start to rob you of increasing degrees of light output because the Light Path is less direct.


----------



## mellamojosh

Has anyone with an 8350 in hand checked their lumens??? I'm really curious about the PC review that only measured 1500 in dynamic mode.


Unfortunately I need each and every lumen in the new house.


----------



## Vauktu

Just ordered the 8350 from VA. Should arrive on Thursday. This unit will be replacing my Optoma HD20 (DLP, 4000:1, 1400 lumens). The Optoma served me well, but because of my HT arrangement, I had to place the projector on the ground. This is one reason as to why I am switching to the 8350.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19290289
> 
> 
> Has anyone with an 8350 in hand checked their lumens??? I'm really curious about the PC review that only measured 1500 in dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I need each and every lumen in the new house.



Those lumen measurements (with watchable colors) are pretty high. What type of screen are you planning on using? At this price I don't think you're going to find anything in the 1080p category that's much brighter while still maintaining "decent" color balance. Maybe a couple of DLP's, but they won't have anywhere near the placement flexibility of the 8350.


1500 lumens thrown from a projector mounted near eye level on to a High Power screen will have you screaming "save my retinas!" in a semi-dark room.


----------



## pkriengsiri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19290383
> 
> 
> Those lumen measurements (with watchable colors) are pretty high. What type of screen are you planning on using? At this price I don't think you're going to find anything in the 1080p category that's much brighter while still maintaining "decent" color balance. Maybe a couple of DLP's, but they won't have anywhere near the placement flexibility of the 8350.
> 
> 
> 1500 lumens thrown from a projector mounted near eye level on to a High Power screen will have you screaming "save my retinas!" in a semi-dark room.



May sound like a dumb question, but are all lumens created equally? I've got a Panny PT-AX100U that PC rated as having 1400ish lumens in dynamic mode. I've got about 200 hours on this current bulb. It's noticibely brighter than the 2200 hour bulb it replaced, but if it's during the day, the picutre leaves something to be desired. Shooting about a 110" image on a white painted wall.


My living room doesn't have great ambient light control, so I need the extra oomph. The 8350 seems like the perfect projector for me, but I'm a little worried by the drop in lumen output.


Can anyone post their expierence with ambient light?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19290289
> 
> 
> Has anyone with an 8350 in hand checked their lumens??? I'm really curious about the PC review that only measured 1500 in dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I need each and every lumen in the new house.



Listen to what sb1 said. and this as well. 1500 lumens is a absolute Light Canon. To be able to deliver that much light and still maintain anything even close to a warchable image "color-wise" is an exceptional feat.


If you need brightness, and the ability to watch in higher levels of ambient light, there are effective options in both the Mfg and DIY Screen genres.


The latter of course requires some extra effort, but up to thousands of $$$ less in expenditure.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pkriengsiri* /forum/post/19290509
> 
> 
> May sound like a dumb question, but are all lumens created equally? I've got a Panny PT-AX100U that PC rated as having 1400ish lumens in dynamic mode. I've got about 200 hours on this current bulb. It's noticeably brighter than the 2200 hour bulb it replaced, but if it's during the day, the picture leaves something to be desired. Shooting about a 110" image on a white painted wall.
> 
> 
> My living room doesn't have great ambient light control, so I need the extra oomph. The 8350 seems like the perfect projector for me, but I'm a little worried by the drop in lumen output.
> 
> 
> Can anyone post their experience with ambient light?



I've had a little bit of experience.










The 8350 has over 45,000 x higher Dynamic contrast. And it's rated as being brighter than the AX100u, a PJ I've dealt with many times in the past. While any ambient light will reduce the depth of blacks and the robustness of deep colors, if you start out way above your current contrast levels, obviously the reduction you'll get with ambient light will seem less than in your current situation using a PJ with such a significantly less ability to deliver appreciable Black levels.


If you continue to shoot onto a white wall in ambient light, even the 8350's performance will be less than it could / should be, but a far greater measure of "Mo Bedder" than the AX100u could ever have mustered.


You need at minimum a light Gray surface...preferably a slightly reflective one. If you cannot "go there" because you must continue using a White Wall, then work instead on trying to mitigate or reduce any ambient light that is specifically directed ONTO the screen. It does not take much reduction of such to amount to a significant improvement.


----------



## retroeric

Just wanted to let everyone know that I pulled the trigger on that $1,165 deal at Electronics Expo (gulp). They do charge for shipping so the total was $1,193.71.


I'll let you know if I encounter any problems.


----------



## pkriengsiri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19290552
> 
> 
> I've had a little bit of experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 has over 45,000 x higher Dynamic contrast. And it's rated as being brighter than the AX100u, a PJ I've dealt with many times in the past. While any ambient light will reduce the depth of blacks and the robustness of deep colors, if you start out way above your current contrast levels, obviously the reduction you'll get with ambient light will seem less than in your current situation using a PJ with such a significantly less ability to deliver appreciable Black levels.
> 
> 
> If you continue to shoot onto a white wall in ambient light, even the 8350's performance will be less than it could / should be, but a far greater measure of "Mo Bedder" than the AX100u could ever have mustered.
> 
> 
> You need at minimum a light Gray surface...preferably a slightly reflective one. If you cannot "go there" because you must continue using a White Wall, then work instead on trying to mitigate or reduce any ambient light that is specifically directed ONTO the screen. It does not take much reduction of such to amount to a significant improvement.



Thanks for the great info!


I've been using the white wall for a few years now and while I know it's not ideal, it's sufficed. The tentative plan for this turkey day is to build my own screen. I've been checking out your posts on the DIY screen forum for a while now


----------



## Prakaash

I am looking at setting up hometheater in my basement (24'X19') on the 19' feet wall. Planning to have EPSON 8350 put at the back wall, about 23-24' from the screen, with a screen size of 120" to 135". Hoping this would work given the high lumens and high contrast ratio. Any thoughts if this will/will not work? I have two windows in this area but plan to use blackout screens but still expect some ambient light.


----------



## sheepshady02

Any thoughts on whether running the projector in high altitude mode has any affect on prolonging the lamp life of the bulbs and whether there are any drawbacks of doing this?


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19290383
> 
> 
> Those lumen measurements (with watchable colors) are pretty high. What type of screen are you planning on using? At this price I don't think you're going to find anything in the 1080p category that's much brighter while still maintaining "decent" color balance. Maybe a couple of DLP's, but they won't have anywhere near the placement flexibility of the 8350.
> 
> 
> 1500 lumens thrown from a projector mounted near eye level on to a High Power screen will have you screaming "save my retinas!" in a semi-dark room.



Glad you asked










I have a black widow screen painted on drywall (16:9, about 140" wide, but I don't usually use the entire 140". The color of the rest of the wall is a blueish-grey. You have to look hard to notice the black widow screen. There is no black border between the two. I know that's not ideal, but it's the comprimise I made with the wife







. The PJ is placed 20' from the screen, at eye level. I cut a hole under a staircase and built a cabinet for the PJ and AV equipment. I then ran the audio cables under the house, then up the walls, and finished the holes off with plates which accept banana plugs (5.1 surround).


There are two windows to the left of the PJ. They are covered with translucent window coverings. There is a 8' opening to the right which opens to the kitchen and allows some ambient light, as well.


I've been using my Panny 900, with 2000 hours on it. The bulb has gotten pretty dim. Due to the setup none of the DLP PJ's will work (ceiling mount isn't possible).


I get that 1500 lumens is a big improvement to my old Panny. However, I'm assuming Panasonic will be coming out with their answer to the 8350 in just a few weeks. I was literally pulling the trigger on the 8350 when I read PC's review of the 8350.


If Panny has a comparable model with a sincere 2000 lumens that may make my decision a much more difficult one. SO...if someone out there has the 8350 and is actually getting closer to 2000 lumens I'd LOVE to know so I can just grab my 8350 and start enjoying it!


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19291292
> 
> 
> Glad you asked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a black widow screen painted on drywall (16:9, about 140" wide, but I don't usually use the entire 140". The color of the rest of the wall is a blueish-grey. You have to look hard to notice the black widow screen. There is no black border between the two. I know that's not ideal, but it's the comprimise I made with the wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The PJ is placed 20' from the screen, at eye level. I cut a hole under a staircase and built a cabinet for the PJ and AV equipment. I then ran the audio cables under the house, then up the walls, and finished the holes off with plates which accept banana plugs (5.1 surround).
> 
> 
> There are two windows to the left of the PJ. They are covered with translucent window coverings. There is a 8' opening to the right which opens to the kitchen and allows some ambient light, as well.
> 
> 
> I've been using my Panny 900, with 2000 hours on it. The bulb has gotten pretty dim. Due to the setup none of the DLP PJ's will work (ceiling mount isn't possible).
> 
> 
> I get that 1500 lumens is a big improvement to my old Panny. However, I'm assuming Panasonic will be coming out with their answer to the 8350 in just a few weeks. I was literally pulling the trigger on the 8350 when I read PC's review of the 8350.
> 
> 
> If Panny has a comparable model with a sincere 2000 lumens that may make my decision a much more difficult one. SO...if someone out there has the 8350 and is actually getting closer to 2000 lumens I'd LOVE to know so I can just grab my 8350 and start enjoying it!



What mode are you running the 900 in to light up a screen 20 feet away, with 2000 hours on the bulb? IIRC, Black Widow doesn't really have any gain to it (could be wrong there), so you'd have to be extemely dim (your image, not you) or have some outrageously crappy colors by pushing the bulb to being watchable with that setup.


I'd have a very hard time believing you wouldn't get a monumental change by going to the 8350. Granted, I haven't seen one, but I'm currently using the same projector you are (the 900), and mine only has 1250 hrs on it and is being used with a high gain screen. I'm not happy with dark scenes at all anymore. Of course, we are talking about a 5 year old projector with a rated contrast ratio of 5500:1...


EDIT: If....IF....Panasonic comes out with something new in the very near future, I'm not sure it will be a low cost and very bright projector. They've had a couple of offerings sprinkled here and there that have good output, but most of theirs are focused on color accuracy, features, and relatively low lumens when properly calibrated. Just my thoughts on it.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19291856
> 
> 
> I'm not happy with dark scenes at all anymore.




Seems like ALL the scenes on my AE900 are dark scenes anymore...that's why I am looking at the 8350. I am sure Panasonic will announce something new soon, but I think it will be hard to beat what the Epson is offering, at the same price. Plus, I don't think I can wait. I play a lot of video games on mine, and with the new games coming out, and Winter right around the corner...I'd like to move on something sooner rather than later.


I just hope the image is a world apart from what I have grown used to on the 900...I think it will be (even my buddy's AX200 looked a lot better than my 900), but I'll be apprehensive until I see it for myself.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajandrew* /forum/post/19291917
> 
> 
> Seems like ALL the scenes on my AE900 are dark scenes anymore...that's why I am looking at the 8350. I am sure Panasonic will announce something new soon, but I think it will be hard to beat what the Epson is offering, at the same price. Plus, I don't think I can wait. I play a lot of video games on mine, and with the new games coming out, and Winter right around the corner...I'd like to move on something sooner rather than later.
> 
> 
> I just hope the image is a world apart from what I have grown used to on the 900...I think it will be (even my buddy's AX200 looked a lot better than my 900), but I'll be apprehensive until I see it for myself.



I'm guessing that most of today's offering will beat down our poor 900's. When you factor in the price of the 8350 (not to mention the placement flexibility and warranty), it gets really hard to find something else to compete with it in this price category. I'm still just having trouble making up my mind on this one or the 8700.


I'm still curious about the lumen readings, though. I'm wondering how the 8350 was given a 200 lumen boost (on paper), yet was tested lower at Projector Central (I know, I know...grain of salt) and supposedly has better blacks than the 8100 (according to Art's blog at Projector Reviews). Makes me anxious about the 8700's brightness.


----------



## garymeter48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19287449
> 
> 
> Electronics-expo.com
> 
> put it in the chart and write"DEALSOFAMERICA" and the price is even lower at $1165 right now.they have a storewide discount on everything so its not especially for Epson 8350
> 
> 
> and for the Epson 8100 Bestbuy Stores are selling it on Clearance right now. even though it is not on sale on the website. go to a store and it is $970 some stores sell it for $1060 so you gotta tell them to match it with other Bestbuys. they can look at the price of the stores selling for $970 and you can go and buy from them or they will match it.
> 
> Good luck guys. I bought the 8350 for $1199 now it is for $1165. my luck



Just ordered the 8350 from Electronics Expo using the coupon code. With shipping it totaled under $1200. Shipping to NY so there was no sales tax. They are based out of NJ. Good deal. I called them after my credit card was hit to confirm it was in stock. The guy said they had plenty in stock. Should ship out tomorrow.


----------



## Indyjones007




> Quote:
> Just wanted to let everyone know that I pulled the trigger on that $1,165 deal at Electronics Expo (gulp). They do charge for shipping so the total was $1,193.71.



oh shoot...I payed $1199 when I ordered mine on Saturday. Wish I had known that discount code then







Hope it will be shipped today!


I wonder if this one will have the same bulb issues as the 8100? Is there an "altitude" setting to turn the fans on earlier with this model?


Can't wait to get it!!!! Upgrading from a Z5...


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Indyjones007* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> oh shoot...I payed $1199 when I ordered mine on Saturday. Wish I had known that discount code then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it will be shipped today!
> 
> 
> I wonder if this one will have the same bulb issues as the 8100? Is there an "altitude" setting to turn the fans on earlier with this model?
> 
> 
> Can't wait to get it!!!! Upgrading from a Z5...



Yes to the altitude setting I read it in the manual.


----------



## Browninggold

Is Electronic expo a authorized Epson dealer?


----------



## ttflyer95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/19292745
> 
> 
> Is Electronic expo a authorized Epson dealer?



According to this, they are:


(Their website address)/make-a-store/static/authorized_dealer/1.html


----------



## Indyjones007




> Quote:
> Yes to the altitude setting I read it in the manual.



So do you guys think this setting is adviseable? Or overkill. I just want to make sure I can get as much out of this bulb as possible. I'll also use it in Eco mode.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Indyjones007* /forum/post/19293166
> 
> 
> So do you guys think this setting is adviseable? Or overkill. I just want to make sure I can get as much out of this bulb as possible. I'll also use it in Eco mode.



It will make the fan run faster' louder.I see no point myself.The main reason bulbs go bad is turning them on and off.Allways use a UPS incase of power failure'that way your bulb can cool properly.And most say 6 hours or so is the longest you want to run a fp.And in many fp's ecomode can cause bulb flicker.I allway run my fp at the regular setting to keep from getting this.


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garymeter48* /forum/post/19291996
> 
> 
> Just ordered the 8350 from Electronics Expo using the coupon code. With shipping it totaled under $1200. Shipping to NY so there was no sales tax. They are based out of NJ. Good deal. I called them after my credit card was hit to confirm it was in stock. The guy said they had plenty in stock. Should ship out tomorrow.



I bought it over the phone to make sure they had it in stock. I spoke to a salesman named john extention 151. pretty cool guy. From projector people and visual apex I bought projectors in the past and I only by on the phone when it comes to projectors because they upgrade you to faster shipment or give you discount a shopping cart can't do. HahahaMake I bought a denon avr1911 for cheap,amazon selling for $599,bought for $400.instead of buying Epson 8500 at $1600 I thought its better to have a great future proof 3D receiver. I will upgrade whatever projector I am buying this year by next year anyways. Plus last years Epson had bulb issues. Two of mine 8100 broke with in 700-800 hours mark with cleaned filters. To their credit Epson always fixed it. And sent new bulbs.


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garymeter48* /forum/post/19291996
> 
> 
> Just ordered the 8350 from Electronics Expo using the coupon code. With shipping it totaled under $1200. Shipping to NY so there was no sales tax. They are based out of NJ. Good deal. I called them after my credit card was hit to confirm it was in stock. The guy said they had plenty in stock. Should ship out tomorrow.



I bought it over the phone to make sure they had it in stock. I spoke to a salesman named john extention 151. pretty cool guy. From projector people and visual apex I bought projectors in the past and I only by on the phone when it comes to projectors because they upgrade you to faster shipment or give you discount a shopping cart can't do. HahahaMake I bought a denon avr1911 for cheap,amazon selling for $599,bought for $400.instead of buying Epson 8500 at $1600 I thought its better to have a great future proof 3D receiver. I will upgrade whatever projector I am buying this year by next year anyways. Plus last years Epson had bulb issues. Two of mine 8100 broke with in 700-800 hours mark with cleaned filters. To their credit Epson always fixed it. And sent new bulbs.


----------



## ericpizzapie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19293688
> 
> 
> two of mine 8100 broke with in 700-800 hours mark with cleaned filters. To their credit Epson always fixed it. And sent new bulbs.



Did you sell the 8100? Did they refund you the second time?


----------



## lin000

I got a EluneVision screen and I'm replacing it with another one due to wrong color suggestion. I am currently having a white one and the black doesn't look good.


My room is light wall, white ceiling. I'm not intending to use it at daytime.


My sofa's distance from the screen is about 11'. Projector (Epson 8350) to screen is about 12.5'. The screen is 120", My sofa doesn't go exceed the length of the screen.


I was debating between:

1. 1.8 Grey, view angle 100 degree. http://www.elunevision.com/cinema-gray.html 

2. 1.1 Grey, view angle 160 degree. http://www.elunevision.com/pro-cinema-gray.html 


What's your suggestion? Thanks.


----------



## fish1479

with the projector only 12.5' away from the screen, my guess is that you arent going to need gain...


----------



## mafaka

I just pushed an order through at projectorpoint.com I'm in Canada and like the fact that the shipping is included in the price 1300$ I think is a good deal on this projector.


Read reviews about projectorpoint and they all seemed really good especially if the need to return the projector occurs.


None the less I cant wait to get this projector the specs look great and im especially interested in the lens shift, this will be my first projector with lens shift and its needed because of a ceiling mount that i will use in the new theater room that im currently building.


I think it will be AWESOME to have an image that doesn't require keystone adjustment and man 50000:1 contrast ratio MUST MEAN great colors and blacks










Cant wait to get this thing and test it out










I have one question though, I have never had a projector that uses a filter, how do I go about cleaning the filter? Can I clean it or do i need to put new filters in from time to time?


Thanks

Dan


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mafaka* /forum/post/19294101
> 
> 
> I just pushed an order through at projectorpoint.com I'm in Canada and like the fact that the shipping is included in the price 1300$ I think is a good deal on this projector.
> 
> 
> Read reviews about projectorpoint and they all seemed really good especially if the need to return the projector occurs.



That is indeed a good price for us Canadians. My local dealer quoted me $1499 plus tax for the 8350 and doesn't seem to want to budge. I may have to look into these guys as well.


----------



## bnichols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mafaka* /forum/post/19294101
> 
> 
> I have one question though, I have never had a projector that uses a filter, how do I go about cleaning the filter? Can I clean it or do i need to put new filters in from time to time?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dan



According to the manual (on pages 51 & 52), you can clean the filter by gently tapping it on a hard surface and remove any additional dust with a small vacuum or a soft clean painters brush.


I'm not sure about Epson (since this will be my first one), but when I would buy a new lamp for my NEC projector, it would come with a new filter.

The Epson manual does list the part number for the filter incase you need to replace it.


----------



## SmoothGS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19294148
> 
> 
> That is indeed a good price for us Canadians. My local dealer quoted me $1499 plus tax for the 8350 and doesn't seem to want to budge. I may have to look into these guys as well.



So you are both buying from a US dealer? Any concerns regarding warranty, my understanding is that is doesn't transfer over to Canada.


----------



## mafaka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19294148
> 
> 
> That is indeed a good price for us Canadians. My local dealer quoted me $1499 plus tax for the 8350 and doesn't seem to want to budge. I may have to look into these guys as well.



I just placed the order with them tonight so as soon as I find out more details I will let you know how my experience dealing with them goes


----------



## mafaka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19294214
> 
> 
> So you are both buying from a US dealer? Any concerns regarding warranty, my understanding is that is doesn't transfer over to Canada.



Hmmmm I didn't know that, I'm sure the warranty will be fine once Epson Canada starts to ship the product










This is whats written on the projectorpoint.com website.


Product Specifications

Resolution: 1080p (1920x1080)

Lumens: 2000

Contrast: 50,000:1

Warranty: 2 years


Here's hoping they honor the warranty !


bnichols, I did not know that







Thanks for the info!


Dan


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19294214
> 
> 
> So you are both buying from a US dealer? Any concerns regarding warranty, my understanding is that is doesn't transfer over to Canada.



Nope, that's from a local dealer here in the great white north. The PJ is $1499 + tax CDN.


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mafaka* /forum/post/19294240
> 
> 
> I just placed the order with them tonight so as soon as I find out more details I will let you know how my experience dealing with them goes



I look forward to hearing how it works out. Thanks


----------



## sajid44

I am in Mississauga, Ontario and tried to purchase from projectorpoint but it did not give me an option for shipping...only local pick up?? Do they have any local store? Also no tax??


----------



## mafaka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajid44* /forum/post/19294297
> 
> 
> I am in Mississauga, Ontario and tried to purchase from projectorpoint but it did not give me an option for shipping...only local pick up?? Do they have any local store? Also no tax??



I think local pick up means from a local UPS or FedEx or Canada Post office.


I read reviews and a few people from Canada have ordered from projectorpoint in the past and seemed to have a great experience dealing with them.


Projectorpoint deals with another company here in Canada to take care of the shipping.


Here is a review that was written by a customer in Alberta.

_"Projectorpoint uses a Canadian affiliate called Reeling Around in Winnipeg, MN. Paul at RA was prompt, helpful and provided us with the information that we needed to make our purchase. Ultimately, we had chosen what we wanted and the decision came down to price and service. RA offered free shipping, COD delivery through UPS and the best price on the unit and accessories to start with. Overall, at this point, we are satisfied with the transaction."_


----------



## davyo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19293298
> 
> 
> It will make the fan run faster' louder.I see no point myself.The main reason bulbs go bad is turning them on and off.Allways use a UPS incase of power failure'that way your bulb can cool properly.And most say 6 hours or so is the longest you want to run a fp.And in many fp's ecomode can cause bulb flicker.I allway run my fp at the regular setting to keep from getting this.



Agreed,,, I have ALWAYS ran my projectors in full bulb mode.

What burns out a bulb is turning it on and off.




On a side note:


Ordered my 8350 today from Visual Apex (overnight shipping) it will be here Thursday,,,, got my room all set up from the 8100 I just returned so when I get the 8350 it will just be a matter of plugging it in.


Got my cave all finished as well,,, whole room painted flat black with total light control, 110" electric screen rolls down in front of my 55" Vizio LED panel and new 5.1 system installed,,, very much looking forward to seeing how this puppy looks in the completed cave.


I will post pictures/screenshots this weekend just for fun.


Cheers

Davyo


----------



## clevercatt110

My Epson 8350 comes in the mail tomorrow via Fedex from Visual Apex. I plan on going all out (somewhat) to set this home theater up. Let me know your thoughts.


Room Size: 15x12x8


The projector will be on the ceiling, 14ft away from screen, viewing is 12 feet away from screen. I would like to do 120", does that sound it's doable?


Along with the 8350 I plan on doing all in wall/ceiling speakers (minus the sub):

(4) Yamaha NS-IW660 6.5" 3-way In Wall Speakers (Front & Back L/R)

(2) Yamaha NS-IW480CWH 8" 3-way In Ceiling Speakers (MID L/R)

(1) Yamaha NS-IW960 6.5" 3-way In Wall Speaker (Dual-in-one for Center)

(1) Yamaha YST-SW315 10" Digital Pro Series Subwoofer

(1) Sony 665W 7.1 A/V Home Theater Receiver (mid-sized room, don't need my windows to shatter with more than 90+W per channel haha)

(1) Sony Blu Ray Player with Netflix/Ethernet Plug-in


Screen:???? I don't know what brand, if 120" is doable, too big for room, etc? Any ideas, any thoughts, anything to help me? I would like to buy the sound system, screen, and blu ray this weekend online.


Thanks in advance!!!!


----------



## hayatiakbas




ericpizzapie said:


> Did you sell the 8100? Did they refund you the second time?[/QU
> 
> 
> they sent me a new one,another one I got it replaced at bestbuy. and I sold last month for upgrading.


----------



## hayatiakbas

Have good news: E-expo shipped my order today! I r eceived a tracking number. So far so good experience. Both items I bought. unless they put a dead cat in the boxes, those should be my items. Or else the cat will be out of the bag. Denon Avr1911 and Epson 8350 are on the way. But I have to wait till Monday.the Weekend will be long.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19291856
> 
> 
> What mode are you running the 900 in to light up a screen 20 feet away, with 2000 hours on the bulb? IIRC, Black Widow doesn't really have any gain to it (could be wrong there), so you'd have to be extemely dim (your image, not you) or have some outrageously crappy colors by pushing the bulb to being watchable with that setup.
> 
> 
> I'd have a very hard time believing you wouldn't get a monumental change by going to the 8350. Granted, I haven't seen one, but I'm currently using the same projector you are (the 900), and mine only has 1250 hrs on it and is being used with a high gain screen. I'm not happy with dark scenes at all anymore. Of course, we are talking about a 5 year old projector with a rated contrast ratio of 5500:1...
> 
> 
> EDIT: If....IF....Panasonic comes out with something new in the very near future, I'm not sure it will be a low cost and very bright projector. They've had a couple of offerings sprinkled here and there that have good output, but most of theirs are focused on color accuracy, features, and relatively low lumens when properly calibrated. Just my thoughts on it.



Tot agreed. No question there would be a monumental improvement by going to the 8350. It just doesn't sit well with me that Proj Central measured the 8350 at 200 LESS lumens than the 8100. Epson even brags about how that they measure the 8350's lumens with "a more rigid standard than the outdated ANSI lumens rating". I know they all play free and loose with the specs, but this still seems like an obvious yellow flag to me.


Panny's 200, which also lists at 2000 lumens, was measured at well over 1800 lumens. I don't want to get bogged down with specs that may or may not make much of a difference in real life, but another 3-500 lumens would potentially make a noticeable difference.


Since Panny's 200 is overdue for a refresh I assume a new model will be announced pretty shortly. While my preference is to pull the trigger on the 8350 now my gut tells me to wait a few weeks to see what Panny comes out with...UNLESS somebody out there measures their 8350 closer to 2000 lumens and I can just chalk PC's review up to the fact that they had a weak bulb or something.










OR


Anybody have a good explanation as to why the 8350 measured over 200 less lumens than the 8100???


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19294869
> 
> 
> Have good news: E-expo shipped my order today! I r eceived a tracking number. So far so good experience. Both items I bought. unless they put a dead cat in the boxes, those should be my items. Or else the cat will be out of the bag. Denon Avr1911 and Epson 8350 are on the way. But I have to wait till Monday.the Weekend will be long.



Thanks for the update! Look forward to hearing about it on Monday


----------



## mike734

Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.


They said they will refund the extra shipping cost. Thanks, but I would rather they had not screwed up.


----------



## davyo

Im hoping that the review on PJ Central lumens measurment was a typo or a mistake in the review process.


It would seem odd that the 8350 measured lower than the 8100.


I have owned (for a few days) the 8100 and also owned the AX200 and they were both very bright as we all know,,,, Im sure the 8350 (I get it Thursday) will be fine in real world use,, even if it does have lower lumens.


Perhaps we could email PJ Central to double check their measurments










Cheers

Davyo


----------



## davyo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19295065
> 
> 
> Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.
> 
> 
> They said they will refund the extra shipping cost. Thanks, but I would rather they had not screwed up.



Yea, that sucks Mike,, sorry to hear that, and yes, shipping refund vs getting the PJ in 2 days,,,,,,, getting the PJ on time beats the hell out of a refund !!!!!


I just ordered mine from Visual Apex and paid for overnight shipping,,,, I forget what standard shipping was but the wait was 4 to 7 days as I recall, no way was I waiting that long,,,, 3 day shipping was around $66.00,,,, for an extra $22.00 "overnight",,,, I'll spend the extra 22 bucks to satisfie my "got to have it now" lifestyle.


Cheers

Davyo


----------



## davyo

A Visual Apex delivery up-date.


When I ordered my 8350 it was Tues the 5th (yesterday), late afternoon, I did overnight delivery but because it was so late in the day when I placed the order they said it would not go out until Wen the 6th as all of their deliverys had already gone out before I called so late in the day,,,set to ship Wen and I would have it Thursday the 7th,,,,,well, I just checked my email and got the tracking info,,, VA was able to send it out right after I called I guess, meaning I get the 8350 a day sooner than expected !!!!!


Whoo Hooo,,,, I am a happy camper and just had to post to publicly thank Visual Apex for their GREAT service and to let everyone else here know that Visual Apex ROCKS !!!!!!


This is not the first projector I have ordered from them over the years, and with every projector I have ever ordered from VA, they have been fantastic !!!!!!


And this time they really exceeded their past great performance by sending the 8350 out to me a day early on the late afternoon order I placed for overnight delivery,,,,, tracking says the 8350 is already halfway here, already shipped from WA, now in Northern CA,,,, next stop, my cave in Vegas before 3pm










My Visual Apex rep is Charlotte Goodman.


Visual Apex = Highly Recomended !!!!!

Getting a projector the day before the overnight delivery date = priceless !!!!


Cheers

Davyo


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19295330
> 
> 
> A Visual Apex delivery up-date.
> 
> 
> When I ordered my 8350 it was Tues the 5th (yesterday), late afternoon, I did overnight delivery but because it was so late in the day when I placed the order they said it would not go out until Wen the 6th as all of their deliverys had already gone out before I called so late in the day,,,set to ship Wen and I would have it Thursday the 7th,,,,,well, I just checked my email and got the tracking info,,, VA was able to send it out right after I called I guess, meaning I get the 8350 a day sooner than expected !!!!!
> 
> 
> Whoo Hooo,,,, I am a happy camper and just had to post to publicly thank Visual Apex for their GREAT service and to let everyone else here know that Visual Apex ROCKS !!!!!!
> 
> 
> This is not the first projector I have ordered from them over the years, and with every projector I have ever ordered from VA, they have been fantastic !!!!!!
> 
> 
> And this time they really exceeded their past great performance by sending the 8350 out to me a day early on the late afternoon order I placed for overnight delivery,,,,, tracking says the 8350 is already halfway here, already shipped from WA, now in Northern CA,,,, next stop, my cave in Vegas before 3pm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Visual Apex rep is Charlotte Goodman.
> 
> 
> Visual Apex = Highly Recomended !!!!!
> 
> Getting a projector the day before the overnight delivery date = priceless !!!!
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



Cool.Hope you love it.Please let us know your impressions.I trust your judgement.You and I have had the same fp's over the years.Like the panny 900 ax 100 ax200 and the epson 8100.I am considering the 8350 but with the 8500ub at below $1700 now might just get that.Not sure their will be much of a differenece in the 8100 and 8350 to make it worth while.But I know the 8500 will have kiiler blacks.Thanks and hope you get it today.THANKS BOB


----------



## davyo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19295458
> 
> 
> Cool.Hope you love it.Please let us know your impressions.I trust your judgement.You and I have had the same fp's over the years.Like the panny 900 ax 100 ax200 and the epson 8100.I am considering the 8350 but with the 8500ub at below $1700 now might just get that.Not sure their will be much of a differenece in the 8100 and 8350 to make it worth while.But I know the 8500 will have kiiler blacks.Thanks and hope you get it today.THANKS BOB



Hey Bob,,,,, yes, we have had many of the same projectors










I will be interested to see if I notice a difference, big or small, from my recently returned 8100 (only had the 8100 for 14 days and returned it to BB when I found out the 8350 was coming out so soon/fast, and the price) so I really did not get a chance to log many hours onto the 8100 to really know it that well,, I think I used the 8100 less than 10 hours, I was too busy setting up the new theater room to spend more time with it.


I will make sure and give a full run thru tonight and just for fun post screen shots,,,,, Im very much looking forward to viewinig the 8350.


Cheers

Davyo


----------



## Mike2001




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19295160
> 
> 
> Im hoping that the review on PJ Central lumens measurment was a typo or a mistake in the review process.
> 
> 
> It would seem odd that the 8350 measured lower than the 8100.
> 
> 
> I have owned (for a few days) the 8100 and also owned the AX200 and they were both very bright as we all know,,,, Im sure the 8350 (I get it Thursday) will be fine in real world use,, even if it does have lower lumens.
> 
> 
> Perhaps we could email PJ Central to double check their measurments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



If I recall, the PJ Central reviewer engaged both the iris and Epson Superwhite which would reduce total lumens projected. We need to wait for Art's methodical review to see if the 8350 puts out close to 2000 lumens.


----------



## mattdavis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Prakaash* /forum/post/19290906
> 
> 
> I am looking at setting up hometheater in my basement (24'X19') on the 19' feet wall. Planning to have EPSON 8350 put at the back wall, about 23-24' from the screen, with a screen size of 120" to 135". Hoping this would work given the high lumens and high contrast ratio. Any thoughts if this will/will not work? I have two windows in this area but plan to use blackout screens but still expect some ambient light.



Can I ask why you are wanting a screen that size?? If you have any type of "row seating" your going to destroy the view of those sitting behind a row. I think you would be much better off with a 100" to 106" screen and on top of that..... have a better and brighter picture.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19295065
> 
> 
> Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.
> 
> 
> They said they will refund the extra shipping cost. Thanks, but I would rather they had not screwed up.



If you look back a couple of pages, somebody reported a truckload of projectors were stolen off the ProjectorPeople's dock. They went above and beyond the call of duty to get orders shipped as fast as possible by drop shipping. They could have waited for the replacement shipment and then sent that instead.


Understand your disappointment, but you may be blaming the wrong folks.


----------



## AVRoberts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *clevercatt110* /forum/post/19294710
> 
> 
> My Epson 8350 comes in the mail tomorrow via Fedex from Visual Apex. I plan on going all out (somewhat) to set this home theater up. Let me know your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Room Size: 15x12x8
> 
> 
> The projector will be on the ceiling, 14ft away from screen, viewing is 12 feet away from screen. I would like to do 120", does that sound it's doable?
> 
> 
> Along with the 8350 I plan on doing all in wall/ceiling speakers (minus the sub):
> 
> (4) Yamaha NS-IW660 6.5" 3-way In Wall Speakers (Front & Back L/R)
> 
> (2) Yamaha NS-IW480CWH 8" 3-way In Ceiling Speakers (MID L/R)
> 
> (1) Yamaha NS-IW960 6.5" 3-way In Wall Speaker (Dual-in-one for Center)
> 
> (1) Yamaha YST-SW315 10" Digital Pro Series Subwoofer
> 
> (1) Sony 665W 7.1 A/V Home Theater Receiver (mid-sized room, don't need my windows to shatter with more than 90+W per channel haha)
> 
> (1) Sony Blu Ray Player with Netflix/Ethernet Plug-in
> 
> 
> Screen:???? I don't know what brand, if 120" is doable, too big for room, etc? Any ideas, any thoughts, anything to help me? I would like to buy the sound system, screen, and blu ray this weekend online.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!!!!



I just purchased the 8350 and the VAPex 120" (16x9) screen from VisualApex. My family/theatre room is 20' L x 13' W. I have a loft above my theatre room, so it's a slanted ceiling and I have the projector mounted 10' above the floor. My first row seating is 13' from the screen, and I have a second row. For SuperBowl parties, I'm sure I'll have people standing back as far as 25' in our kitchen. I was going back and forth between a 120" and 133" screen. At 13', the 120" screen seems pretty big to me..at least for HDTV viewing (everyone is different). When I watch a 2.35:1 movie, the 120" screen seems just about right. If I was ONLY going to have one row of seating at 12' or 13', I probably wouldn't consider having anything bigger than 120" I selected. Of course you can always go bigger on your screen and scale it down with masking, but that's more work and expense. Hope this helps.


----------



## cornchip75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19294214
> 
> 
> So you are both buying from a US dealer? Any concerns regarding warranty, my understanding is that is doesn't transfer over to Canada.



In the operation manual on page 74 under warranty, it states "if purchased new and operated in the United States, Canada, or Puerto Rico", so it should be transferable!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19294148
> 
> 
> That is indeed a good price for us Canadians. My local dealer quoted me $1499 plus tax for the 8350 and doesn't seem to want to budge. I may have to look into these guys as well.



I am going to look into this as well. I made some phone calls yesterday and no one could give me pricing info!


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.
> 
> 
> They said they will refund the extra shipping cost. Thanks, but I would rather they had not screwed up.



Same happened to me. But their stock got stolen, so i gotta give them a break. They drop shipped ground and should have been air, the guy said he requested air but Epsom shipped them all ground. Hoe refunded the air shipping without me asking. So I have no issues with pp


She arrives tomorrow people!


----------



## retroeric

*Update on my order from Electronics-Expo, they told over the phone it is shipping out today.


----------



## Dogllama




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19295065
> 
> 
> Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.



+1


Also, FedEx has a garbled form of my address that I cannot change, Epson has to change. What a headache!


----------



## Shag

Just ordered my 8350! Should be here on Friday - can't wait! Granted, my room's not quite finished, and I don't yet have a screen, but who cares?


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19295523
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,,,,, yes, we have had many of the same projectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be interested to see if I notice a difference, big or small, from my recently returned 8100 (only had the 8100 for 14 days and returned it to BB when I found out the 8350 was coming out so soon/fast, and the price) so I really did not get a chance to log many hours onto the 8100 to really know it that well,, I think I used the 8100 less than 10 hours, I was too busy setting up the new theater room to spend more time with it.
> 
> 
> I will make sure and give a full run thru tonight and just for fun post screen shots,,,,, Im very much looking forward to viewinig the 8350.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



I have owned an 8100. sold it and 8350 is coming on monday. I would love your experience and comparison of the two buddy. like brightness, black levels. dynamic iris operation smoothness etc.

Enjoy your Projector


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19295458
> 
> 
> Cool.Hope you love it.Please let us know your impressions.I trust your judgement.You and I have had the same fp's over the years.Like the panny 900 ax 100 ax200 and the epson 8100.I am considering the 8350 but with the 8500ub at below $1700 now might just get that.Not sure their will be much of a differenece in the 8100 and 8350 to make it worth while.But I know the 8500 will have kiiler blacks.Thanks and hope you get it today.THANKS BOB



you are right about 8500. it will have much better blacks. but I am thinking hopefully Epson updated the issues and quirks with the newly released 8350 and 8700 so even though 8350 will have less black levels it will be superior in the quality sense until I buy a 3D projector next year when it is with in my budget.

Projector people selling 8500 for $1599. instead I went with 8350 for $1199 and bought a 3D capable a best sounding Receiver of the middle range Denon AVR-1911 for $400. bought me a PS3 slim 160gb from amazon just today. so come next year only thing will need to be updated to 3D will be Projector.

I was happy with 8100 to begin with. since I have never seen an 8500 in action I don't know what I am missing and its a good thing


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike2001* /forum/post/19295603
> 
> 
> If I recall, the PJ Central reviewer engaged both the iris and Epson Superwhite which would reduce total lumens projected. We need to wait for Art's methodical review to see if the 8350 puts out close to 2000 lumens.



Epson Super White might be able to take some light output away and the iris also. but in the review they mentioned they did those adjustments for cinema modes. for dynamic modes they didn't engage them. although I am waiting Arts take on the subject. I like his more personal and less generic: original writing style.


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mattdavis* /forum/post/19295651
> 
> 
> Can I ask why you are wanting a screen that size?? If you have any type of "row seating" your going to destroy the view of those sitting behind a row. I think you would be much better off with a 100" to 106" screen and on top of that..... have a better and brighter picture.



oh dude I first used 106". a year later the bug in me said 120" and a year after that I am settled on 135" with 8100







. now it will be 8350. so even though light output suffers little bit its a great feeling to look at that size.


----------



## ay129




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19297737
> 
> *
> 
> Projector people selling 8500 for $1599*



Really? Just been on there and its $1799. Or do you mean somewhere else?


Anyone expect the price of the 8500 to come down any further?


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19295523
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,,,,, yes, we have had many of the same projectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be interested to see if I notice a difference, big or small, from my recently returned 8100 (only had the 8100 for 14 days and returned it to BB when I found out the 8350 was coming out so soon/fast, and the price) so I really did not get a chance to log many hours onto the 8100 to really know it that well,, I think I used the 8100 less than 10 hours, I was too busy setting up the new theater room to spend more time with it.
> 
> 
> I will make sure and give a full run thru tonight and just for fun post screen shots,,,,, Im very much looking forward to viewinig the 8350.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



Any chance you'll be able to do an input lag test? Providing you have a computer with a CRT monitor. Or at least any computer/laptop with any monitor just to give a general idea.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1068844


----------



## cdelena

I dropped PP a note about my delivery because I ordered and paid over 10 days ago and have not heard anything.


They arranged drop shipping directly from Epson inventory but apparently that process does not automatically notify the customer. It appears my order was scheduled with Fedex on 10/1, left Epson on 10/4, and should be to me 10/8. It is a ground shipment requiring a signature.


I will be happy to have mine before this weekend and am OK with the PP service.


----------



## mattdavis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19297812
> 
> 
> oh dude I first used 106". a year later the bug in me said 120" and a year after that I am settled on 135" with 8100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . now it will be 8350. so even though light output suffers little bit its a great feeling to look at that size.



That would make me sick being that big.....I would get motion sickness! HA!!!!!


----------



## mattdavis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ay129* /forum/post/19297878
> 
> 
> Really? Just been on there and its $1799. Or do you mean somewhere else?
> 
> 
> Anyone expect the price of the 8500 to come down any further?



Think he made a mistake....i'm not seing a new boxed 8500UB out there for less then $1,799.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mattdavis* /forum/post/19298176
> 
> 
> Think he made a mistake....i'm not seing a new boxed 8500UB out there for less then $1,799.



You might have to call to get that discount.


----------



## SilverJS

Hey guys,


JS here from Moose Jaw, SK. I am also one of the Canadians anxiously awaiting this projector. I made a few calls today and gathered this info, thought you'd like to hear it :


1. Both Quebec Acoustique and EastPorters confirmed the CDN price will be 1499$;

2. Quebec Acoustique's Epson rep told him Epson Canada would receive their first shipment of the projectors on Friday 15 Oct; that means that the earliest the stores would have them would be the following Monday (the 18th), if Epson Canada is really switched on.


That's what I've got. EastPorters wasn't clear on whether or not a US-bought projector's warranty would be valid in Canada, and Quebec Acoustique was adamant that it would not.


Anybody have further info on this? ProjectorPoint.com will sell the PJ for 1299$ + 50$ shipping. Even with brokerage, that's still a bit less than I'd pay for it from a Canadian retailer, but most of all, I'd have it at least a week early.


Thoughts?


Cheers!


JS


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ay129* /forum/post/19297878
> 
> 
> Really? Just been on there and its $1799. Or do you mean somewhere else?
> 
> 
> Anyone expect the price of the 8500 to come down any further?



they had some demo units with less than 4 hours on the bulb with brand new condition so its no more i guess. I think you should call and talk to someone there. Dana Moretz is the rep i talked to and she sounds honest. last year I alled her and said I own a 8100. should i uprade to panasoni 4000. she said "keep it hun, it is a great projector.buy the new ones coming in october"


the price will sure come down on back friday at least.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19298380
> 
> 
> they had some demo units with less than 4 hours on the bulb with brand new condition so its no more i guess. I think you should call and talk to someone there. Dana Moretz is the rep i talked to and she sounds honest. last year I alled her and said I own a 8100. should i uprade to panasoni 4000. she said "keep it hun, it is a great projector.buy the new ones coming in october"
> 
> 
> the price will sure come down on back friday at least.



Donna is also my rep. I trust her.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

Finally, we got our in


----------



## cornchip75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SilverJS* /forum/post/19298283
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> JS here from Moose Jaw, SK. I am also one of the Canadians anxiously awaiting this projector. I made a few calls today and gathered this info, thought you'd like to hear it :
> 
> 
> 1. Both Quebec Acoustique and EastPorters confirmed the CDN price will be 1499$;
> 
> 2. Quebec Acoustique's Epson rep told him Epson Canada would receive their first shipment of the projectors on Friday 15 Oct; that means that the earliest the stores would have them would be the following Monday (the 18th), if Epson Canada is really switched on.
> 
> 
> That's what I've got. EastPorters wasn't clear on whether or not a US-bought projector's warranty would be valid in Canada, and Quebec Acoustique was adamant that it would not.
> 
> 
> Anybody have further info on this? ProjectorPoint.com will sell the PJ for 1299$ + 50$ shipping. Even with brokerage, that's still a bit less than I'd pay for it from a Canadian retailer, but most of all, I'd have it at least a week early.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> JS



Hey fellow canucks,


I placed an order at projectorpoint this morning and it cost basicly what you said. Converted its $1400 CAD. My understanding is that there is no duty on projectors coming from the US, but GST does apply. The other thing about ordering from them was that I had to pay via PayPal, they don't accept credit cards from Canadian banks. When I called, they told me that their none were in stock but should be in a week. That's about the same time as quoted above.


On the warranty, I go back to my previous post and what Epson has written in their manual!


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

I ordered my 8350 today, should be here in the morning. I viewed both the 8100 and 8350 side by side both ISF'd in a controlled lighted room yesterday and was very pleased with the outcome from the 8350.


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, that sucks Mike,, sorry to hear that, and yes, shipping refund vs getting the PJ in 2 days,,,,,,, getting the PJ on time beats the hell out of a refund !!!!!
> 
> Davyo



I didn't buy form apex because I would have to pay 9.5% sales tax.


As for the theft of the truck load, I guess I'll have to cut PP some slack. When we start hearing about people buying the 8350 for less than a grand, we will know what happened to that truck!


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19298903
> 
> 
> I ordered my 8350 today, should be here in the morning. I viewed both the 8100 and 8350 side by side both ISF'd in a controlled lighted room yesterday and was very pleased with the outcome from the 8350.



can you please elaborate?


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cornchip75* /forum/post/19296010
> 
> 
> In the operation manual on page 74 under warranty, it states "if purchased new and operated in the United States, Canada, or Puerto Rico", so it should be transferable!



You don't know how happy you've made me!!! I live in Puerto Rico!!! Now I can buy with confidence knowing I'll be covered!


Thnx


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19299161
> 
> 
> can you please elaborate?



Sure, in short the 8350's black levels have been improved probably 30% from the 8100. A little bit closer to the 8500. The 8350 makes no noise, let me repeat.......NO NOISE! On the color side of things I would say the 8350 wants to be the 8500 pop but falls a little short.


----------



## vik_tx

I need to get a ceiling mount for this.. any suggestions?


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19299828
> 
> 
> You don't know how happy you've made me!!! I live in Puerto Rico!!! Now I can buy with confidence knowing I'll be covered! Thnx



Always call the manufacturer first when buying if one is not located on the mainland. At least then there will be no surprises on what can and can not be done


----------



## talk2rider

I received my 8350 from Visual Apex yesterday. It arrived in good shape via Fedex. I fired it up and watched a little bit of standard def video via netflix streaming and DVD.


I must be the most unprepared 8350 owner on AVS Forum - I have a blu-ray player, but I don't own any blu-ray discs. My previous projector used DVI input - so guess who doesn't have any HDMI cables either?!

(I'm working on correcting both those little issues!)


I'll echo what others have said..."Hey, this is a big projector!" It just barely sits on the same shelf that my old Epson TW-100 sat on - the feet almost hang off the edges.


I switched on the Auto-Iris, switched to ECO + Cinema mode. I will try to find that Epson Super-white setting and make the other tweaks that were mentioned in the review, but even without doing that, I was impressed by the black levels. The 8350 is a huge step-up from the 600:1 contrast ratio I am used to from my vintage 2002 Epson projector. This projector is very quiet - almost silent in ECO mode.


Setup was very easy with the lens shift feature. I was able to square up the picture and center it on my 8 year old 133" Da-Lite Electrol Cosmopolitan Electric screen with the 1.5 gain Video Spectra surface. The room is a dedicated home theater with no windows.


I can't say much about video quality since I am running standard def material through a component cable, but when I can scrounge up a few blu-ray discs and a HDMI cable, I will let you know what I think. So far, I am very happy with the projector.


As far as the plan moving forward - I've ordered a new fan-less video card for my HT PC that updates me to HDMI output, and I ordered some 25ft HDMI cables. I usually just rent BR discs via Netflix, but I will have to buy a few to keep on hand for giving demos of my new toy.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19300264
> 
> 
> I received my 8350 from Visual Apex yesterday. It arrived in good shape via Fedex. I fired it up and watched a little bit of standard def video via netflix streaming and DVD.
> 
> 
> I must be the most unprepared 8350 owner on AVS Forum - I have a blu-ray player, but I don't own any blu-ray discs. My previous projector used DVI input - so guess who doesn't have any HDMI cables either?!
> 
> (I'm working on correcting both those little issues!)
> 
> 
> I'll echo what others have said..."Hey, this is a big projector!" It just barely sits on the same shelf that my old Epson TW-100 sat on - the feet almost hang off the edges.
> 
> 
> I switched on the Auto-Iris, switched to ECO + Cinema mode. I will try to find that Epson Super-white setting and make the other tweaks that were mentioned in the review, but even without doing that, I was impressed by the black levels. The 8350 is a huge step-up from the 600:1 contrast ratio I am used to from my vintage 2002 Epson projector. This projector is very quiet - almost silent in ECO mode.
> 
> 
> Setup was very easy with the lens shift feature. I was able to square up the picture and center it on my 8 year old 133" Da-Lite Electrol Cosmopolitan Electric screen with the 1.5 gain Video Spectra surface. The room is a dedicated home theater with no windows.
> 
> 
> I can't say much about video quality since I am running standard def material through a component cable, but when I can scrounge up a few blu-ray discs and a HDMI cable, I will let you know what I think. So far, I am very happy with the projector.
> 
> 
> As far as the plan moving forward - I've ordered a new fan-less video card for my HT PC that updates me to HDMI output, and I ordered some 25ft HDMI cables. I usually just rent BR discs via Netflix, but I will have to buy a few to keep on hand for giving demos of my new toy.



You haven't seen anything yet. Wait until you watch your first BR over HDMI, and give it a proper calibration.


----------



## Joco1114

Do you know about the "european-edition"? Release date, price? I found nothing.


----------



## talk2rider

I remember there was a noticeable difference when I went from component to DVI. I suspect the larger the screen, the more difference you will notice.


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19299865
> 
> 
> Sure, in short the 8350's black levels have been improved probably 30% from the 8100. A little bit closer to the 8500. The 8350 makes no noise, let me repeat.......NO NOISE! On the color side of things I would say the 8350 wants to be the 8500 pop but falls a little short.



I knew it!! it proves that cooling mechanism is changed all together to stop early bulb failures of 8100. Dude mine is coming on monday and you made me feel so good about my purchase. better blacks than my last 8100 and quite operation. better color. I am a happy camper.


----------



## retroeric

Is it just me or does the 8350 have better specs than the 9100 for half the price? (Unless I am missing something)

http://www.projectorcentral.com/part...=5154&add=5910


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *retroeric* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it just me or does the 8350 have better specs than the 9100 for half the price? (Unless I am missing something)
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/part...=5154&add=5910



The 9100 has the same guts as the 8100, so no.


----------



## retroeric




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19300878
> 
> 
> The 9100 has the same guts as the 8100, so no.



So in what areas would the 9100 be superior?


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Hey, my 8350 showed up yesterday, and I just fired it up last night. Upon pressing the Power button, a pronounced "burnt electronics" smell came out, and the Power button went back to stand-by. I pressed it again, and while it stayed on this time, the smell was there as well, slowly dissipating as I watched a Blu-ray and played with settings. I love the picture this projector throws, but is the initial smell normal?? I don't remember that with the two JVC projectors I have owned.


Kevin


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19300878
> 
> 
> The 9100 has the same guts as the 8100, so no.


*Fail*











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *retroeric* /forum/post/19300881
> 
> 
> So in what areas would the 9100 be superior?



The 9100 "only" has 36000:1 contrast and just a paltry 1800 lumens


BUT......that 36000:1 CR is helped along by the special multi-layered Lens that all "Epson Pro" models possess (...negative on the 8350...) and the lower lumen output further makes the appearance of the Black levels more effectively darker.


"Pro" Models also have an even more explicit ability to be calibrated...and a slightly longer warranty.


Oh yeah...and this is important to some...the 9100 comes in a Black casing.










Bluntly put, the 8350 goes a long way toward making the choice between the two models pretty much a no-brainer. Unless you feel you have to go "Black".


Now if it was the newest Epson w/1,000,000:1 On/Off ...........










Maybe next year....ya thin?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/19300960
> 
> 
> Hey, my 8350 showed up yesterday, and I just fired it up last night. Upon pressing the Power button, a pronounced "burnt electronics" smell came out, and the Power button went back to stand-by. I pressed it again, and while it stayed on this time, the smell was there as well, slowly dissipating as I watched a Blu-ray and played with settings. I love the picture this projector throws, but is the initial smell normal?? I don't remember that with the two JVC projectors I have owned.
> 
> 
> Kevin






























































Sounds like you had a Solder connection at the Power Supply where the flux/solder was bridging two points, and the initial Power-Up melted the bridge at the same time the current spike from the temporary short tripped the protection circuit.


I'd call up the source and relate that story to them immediately (...or ASAP...) and let them determine a course of action. I'm betting they want you to exchange that puppy outright, and at their expense, freight-wise.


last time I had to do that for a DOA unit, all it took was their getting conformation via FedEx the PJ was back in-route and BAM...they Over Night'ed a replacement.


----------



## buddahead

Just up http://*******.com/33fqrta REVIEW


----------



## buddahead

NEW REIEW

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...8350/index.php


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

MM: Thanks; for all I knew, that smell might have been typical, but I will now call Visual Apex and ask for a return.


Kevin


----------



## Samfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19301009
> 
> 
> NEW REIEW
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...8350/index.php



Art's not going to make many friends at Epson corporate with this opening line: "*Mitsubishi's* Home Cinema 8350 will shortly be replacing the "award winning" HC3800...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Samfield* /forum/post/19301125
> 
> 
> Art's not going to make many friends at Epson corporate with this opening line: "*Mitsubishi's* Home Cinema 8350 will shortly be replacing the "award winning" HC3800...



yeah....that was Currrrrazy!


----------



## Kirk Ritari




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19295065
> 
> 
> Damn. Projector people let me down. I ordered the 8350 last week and paid for 2 day shipping. I know they got them Monday so I expected a tracking number by Tuesday. When I called they informed me it was being shipped directly from the factory and they already shipped it Fedex ground.
> 
> 
> They said they will refund the extra shipping cost. Thanks, but I would rather they had not screwed up.




We understand your disappointment and frustration Mike. I'd like to clarify a couple of points. Our initial shipment from Epson was stolen in transit to us. When we were informed of this, we worked with Epson to have our pre-orders drop shipped directly to our customers from Epson, via 2 day air. However, in the rush to make this happen, they were shipped out ground. For those customers who had initially paid for expedited delivery, we're happy to take care of the shipping charges. It's certainly not the best of situations, but we're doing all we can to make the best of it. We appreciate the support from the Forum, and your understanding of this unique situation. We have over 300 of these units in stock at this time as well.


Kirk


----------



## MississippiMan

That's my main man *Kirk*, said all that!


You can't get any better service at Projector People than what *Kirk* is willing / able to provide. *Ext: 2002*


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/19301063
> 
> 
> MM: Thanks; for all I knew, that smell might have been typical, but I will now call Visual Apex and ask for a return.
> 
> 
> Kevin




Saw-rite.










Be sure to ask for your Sales Rep. Tell him / Her the whole thing "Stinks"!














"Expect" a Freight Return to be issued. Be sure to ask just how fast the turn around time will be and at what level of expedited service it will ship. Ask if you can receive a Down-loadable UPS / Fed Ex ticket so you do not have to wait for a PU at your Home. Take it into a depot, then email the Tracking number to them.


Quickest way there is......


----------



## Knd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/19301063
> 
> 
> MM: Thanks; for all I knew, that smell might have been typical, but I will now call Visual Apex and ask for a return.
> 
> 
> Kevin



Kevin,

When my 6500 developed a pink bar at the top and bottom, I called Epson (I bought mine from PP). I called in the morning, and I had the replacement unit the following afternoon. I then sent the damaged unit back via prepaid FedEx. This way Epson lets you evaluate the new unit against the damaged unit, and if there is a problem with the replacement, send that one back and get another. Fortunately, my replacement unit was fine.


You may want to contact Epson first.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Knd* /forum/post/19301599
> 
> 
> Kevin,
> 
> When my 6500 developed a pink bar at the top and bottom, I called Epson (I bought mine from PP). I called in the morning, and I had the replacement unit the following afternoon. I then sent the damaged unit back via prepaid FedEx. This way Epson lets you evaluate the new unit against the damaged unit, and if there is a problem with the replacement, send that one back and get another. Fortunately, my replacement unit was fine.
> 
> 
> You may want to contact Epson first.



By saying "developed" you infer you had the PJ at least for a while. The individual (Kevin) got a bogus unit right out of the carton. That's the Dealer's responsibility, and remains so until 8-10 hours of usage has gone by.


----------



## Knd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19301781
> 
> 
> By saying "developed" you infer you had the PJ at least for a while. The individual (Kevin) got a bogus unit right out of the carton. That's the Dealer's responsibility, and remains so until 8-10 hours of usage has gone by.



Yes, I had the unit for several weeks. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## dhahlen

man, 8 pages and only one person has posted pics? This is ridiculous! More image shots!


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> man, 8 pages and only one person has posted pics? This is ridiculous! More image shots!



If it helps, I can post a pic of the empty space and drill holes patiently waiting for my 8350 to arrive today


----------



## dhahlen

Haha, I'm about to order one just so I can see it, lol. At this point anything 1080p is an upgrade for me.


----------



## szitzma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Samfield* /forum/post/19301125
> 
> 
> Art's not going to make many friends at Epson corporate with this opening line: "*Mitsubishi's* Home Cinema 8350 will shortly be replacing the "award winning" HC3800...


 http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...8350/index.php 
http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4000/ 


Almost the entire first 3 paragraphs are identical, except for the projector models. Not criticizing Art, just pointing out the likely reason for the review mentioning "Mitsubishi" rather than "Epson".


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/19302373
> 
> 
> man, 8 pages and only one person has posted pics? This is ridiculous! More image shots!



I'm reading this thread a few times everyday and waiting for pics and videos but.... nothing...


----------



## mellamojosh

The disparity in stated lumens and actual lumens still remains problematic for me.


Don't get me wrongthe pros far outweigh the cons with the 8350. I just have a real problem with Epson stating 200 more lumens than the 8100, bragging that they use an ISO standard to measure instead of the outdated ANSI, and then shipping a PJ that actually measures a good bit LESS than the 8100.


I am replacing my Panny 900 ASAP. I was hoping to do it with the 8350. I'm fully aware that it's easy to needlessly get caught up in speeds and feeds that may not translate to much in real life applications. I just want every lumen possible for the new house and I'm finding it hard to pull the trigger on a supposed 2000 lumen PJ that only breaks 1300 in Art's review. I was hoping the 8350 would be brighter than the AE4000, 8500, 8700, etc. If I'm not going to get any more lumens from the 8350 I'm thinking I should just grab an 8500 while I still can and enjoy deeper blacks. For that matter I could grab an AE200 and probably do the same.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...erformance.php 

Lumen Output and Color Temp at 100 IRE (Lamp on Normal):

Dynamic= 1378 @ 6810

Living Room= 1010 @ 8717

Natural= 459 @ 6233

Cinema= 463 @ 6517

x.v.Color= 447 @ 6045


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19302682
> 
> 
> The disparity in stated lumens and actual lumens still remains problematic for me.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrongthe pros far outweigh the cons with the 8350. I just have a real problem with Epson stating 200 more lumens than the 8100, bragging that they use an ISO standard to measure instead of the outdated ANSI, and then shipping a PJ that actually measures a good bit LESS than the 8100.
> 
> 
> I am replacing my Panny 900 ASAP. I was hoping to do it with the 8350. I'm fully aware that it's easy to needlessly get caught up in speeds and feeds that may not translate to much in real life applications. I just want every lumen possible for the new house and I'm finding it hard to pull the trigger on a supposed 2000 lumen PJ that only breaks 1300 in Art's review. I was hoping the 8350 would be brighter than the AE4000, 8500, 8700, etc. If I'm not going to get any more lumens from the 8350 I'm thinking I should just grab an 8500 while I still can and enjoy deeper blacks. For that matter I could grab an AE200 and probably do the same.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...erformance.php
> 
> Lumen Output and Color Temp at 100 IRE (Lamp on Normal):
> 
> Dynamic= 1378 @ 6810
> 
> Living Room= 1010 @ 8717
> 
> Natural= 459 @ 6233
> 
> Cinema= 463 @ 6517
> 
> x.v.Color= 447 @ 6045



I agree. When you look at the specs of the projector, it doesn't match up. Longer lamp life _and_ brighter? Testing is proving the former may be true, but I have no idea where the "2000 lumen" upgrade comes from.


----------



## volfan23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19302550
> 
> 
> I'm reading this thread a few times everyday and waiting for pics and videos but.... nothing...



I was thinking the same thing. I did finally pull the trigger on the 8350 after reading Art's review. The past 2 reviews posted were very positive I thought!


The other thing I am interested in is that both reviews state that the presets are pretty well calibrated and not much calibration was needed. So, when I get the projector in, should I calibrate it or go with the default settings? Any of the now 8350 owners do any calibration and be willing to post their settings? I'd be curious if it would make a whole lot of difference in the picture from the presets.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *volfan23* /forum/post/19303098
> 
> 
> I was thinking the same thing. I did finally pull the trigger on the 8350 after reading Art's review. The past 2 reviews posted were very positive I thought!
> 
> 
> The other thing I am interested in is that both reviews state that the presets are pretty well calibrated and not much calibration was needed. So, when I get the projector in, should I calibrate it or go with the default settings? Any of the now 8350 owners do any calibration and be willing to post their settings? I'd be curious if it would make a whole lot of difference in the picture from the presets.



I'd be utterly amazed if any projector in this price range (and many above) didn't benefit from proper calibration. Proper being the key word. Projectors that have good color and settings out of the box, though, can be a God send for the average movie watcher.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *volfan23* /forum/post/19303098
> 
> 
> I was thinking the same thing. I did finally pull the trigger on the 8350 after reading Art's review. The past 2 reviews posted were very positive I thought!
> 
> 
> The other thing I am interested in is that both reviews state that the presets are pretty well calibrated and not much calibration was needed. So, when I get the projector in, should I calibrate it or go with the default settings? Any of the now 8350 owners do any calibration and be willing to post their settings? I'd be curious if it would make a whole lot of difference in the picture from the presets.



I calibrated my 6500UB based off of Art's calibration numbers, and it looks great...a lot better than out of the box. It all has to do with personal preference though, I tweeked a few settings after doing his calibration. It might not be as accurate, but I prefer it.


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19302682
> 
> 
> The disparity in stated lumens and actual lumens still remains problematic for me.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrongthe pros far outweigh the cons with the 8350. I just have a real problem with Epson stating 200 more lumens than the 8100, bragging that they use an ISO standard to measure instead of the outdated ANSI, and then shipping a PJ that actually measures a good bit LESS than the 8100.
> 
> 
> I am replacing my Panny 900 ASAP. I was hoping to do it with the 8350. I'm fully aware that it's easy to needlessly get caught up in speeds and feeds that may not translate to much in real life applications. I just want every lumen possible for the new house and I'm finding it hard to pull the trigger on a supposed 2000 lumen PJ that only breaks 1300 in Art's review. I was hoping the 8350 would be brighter than the AE4000, 8500, 8700, etc. If I'm not going to get any more lumens from the 8350 I'm thinking I should just grab an 8500 while I still can and enjoy deeper blacks. For that matter I could grab an AE200 and probably do the same.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...erformance.php
> 
> Lumen Output and Color Temp at 100 IRE (Lamp on Normal):
> 
> Dynamic= 1378 @ 6810
> 
> Living Room= 1010 @ 8717
> 
> Natural= 459 @ 6233
> 
> Cinema= 463 @ 6517
> 
> x.v.Color= 447 @ 6045



I may be totally wrong on this, but this might be the case of max possible output vs calibrated output. While it may be possible, in the laboratory, to measure 2000 lumens from this projector that's not what's being outputed by the projector in any of these modes.


I suspect Epson might have done additional tweaking to the default settings for these modes in order to improve color accuracy at the expense of some light output.


I come to this conclusion partly from this line in Art's review "*even unaltered dynamic mode had better color than last year's 8100*". IIRC the 8100 tended towards a blue-green tint as you went from natural->living room->dynamic modes. So, my guess is they reduced the blue/green levels in living room and dynamic modes to get better colors which might have also been somewhat offset by the supposed increase in total aboslute lumens.


Of course, it could also be total marketing spewage from Espon too


----------



## j-bo

Although I'm sorta (ok, really) bummed about the lumen output, I'll still be purchasing to replace the ax200u. I'd get another ax200u, but I like the D7 panels better and want to finally get with the blu ray movement.


Those numbers above are at mid-zoom, here is differences from the article, in Dynamic Mode:



> Quote:
> Zoom out: 1640
> 
> Mid-zoom: 1378
> 
> Zoom in: 987



I used the ax200u in "normal" mode, which by Art's numbers produced 1388, so I'm hoping I'm going to be bright enough with the Epson 8350. If not, I'll have to re-adjust my 140" screen and mounting of the Epson, although with a cathedral ceiling, that will be most difficult.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *szitzma* /forum/post/19302534
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...8350/index.php
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc4000/
> 
> 
> Almost the entire first 3 paragraphs are identical, except for the projector models. Not criticizing Art, just pointing out the likely reason for the review mentioning "Mitsubishi" rather than "Epson".



the new review is very good.


----------



## lin000

I'll post some pics, still waiting for mine to arrive. It's 2 now and it's supposed to be end of day.


----------



## phun007

Now that people are receiving their 8350s, is there any word on the "free bulb" promotion/rebate that was mentioned earlier with the 8350? Is this still true? Reseller specific?


----------



## lin000

there is only free bulb for 8700, not for 8350.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bk* /forum/post/19303249
> 
> 
> I may be totally wrong on this, but this might be the case of max possible output vs calibrated output. While it may be possible, in the laboratory, to measure 2000 lumens from this projector that's not what's being outputed by the projector in any of these modes.
> 
> 
> I suspect Epson might have done additional tweaking to the default settings for these modes in order to improve color accuracy at the expense of some light output.
> 
> 
> I come to this conclusion partly from this line in Art's review "*even unaltered dynamic mode had better color than last year's 8100*". IIRC the 8100 tended towards a blue-green tint as you went from natural->living room->dynamic modes. So, my guess is they reduced the blue/green levels in living room and dynamic modes to get better colors which might have also been somewhat offset by the supposed increase in total aboslute lumens.
> 
> 
> Of course, it could also be total marketing spewage from Espon too



You make a good point. After digesting this a little more I feel somewhat better about the 8350's practical output.


About the theory...I'm still a bit pissed about Epson bragging about the integrity of the 2000 lumen output only to find out they were WAY (20%) Off. If the PJ throws a 1600 lumen image, then just tell me it throws a 1600 lumen image. A high quality 1600 lumen image is not a bad thing... so stop making crap up! They could have just kept the spec the same from the 8100.


Either way, it's super nice to arrive at the point where we can have a high quality, flexibly placed, 1600 lumen image for $1,200. When I ditched my TV for my first PJ five years ago I think my friends thought I was being eccentric. Now, they're asking me which one they should get


----------



## andrios

Just purchased the 8350 from Mike @ projectorpeople.com


Good guy to work with, cant wait till it comes in tomorrow. Haha I payed extra for overnight shipping!!


I was about to purchase the LG cf181d, mainly for HDTV/blurays/gaming. I dont think I really needed all the bells and whistles the LG and even the 8500/8700 have.


When I heard this 8350 was a canon and I can save almost $1000 over the LG I decided to jump on this as my first projector. I have 4 hours to test it so Im not worried.


I got the sanus universal mount from them also, I will be mounting it to ceiling so I hope this is a good mount.


I


----------



## andrios

Will I notice a major difference with this 60hz pj from lets say the 8500/8700 that is 120hz?


----------



## eddieb187

Did anyone try Art's Calibrated Settings yet?

Did they improve the image much for you?

I will give them a try as soon as it gets dark here.

As Art mentioned it looks pretty good out of the box.

I'm surprised I'm the only one who put any photos up here.

I guess not many have their 8350 set up yet.


----------



## bnichols

I got my 8350 last night and found something in the menu that I did not see this in the manual, this thread, or the reviews, but I thought I'd let people know this projector can do rear projection.


----------



## SilverJS

EDIT : Disregard, 6500UB refurb is not available from Visual Apex anymore.


----------



## Vauktu

So, after ordering my Epson 8350 from VA 3 days ago, I was surprised to find a package sitting on my front door this morning...










The 8350 will be replacing my Optoma HD20 projector that I bought in April. The little HD20 served me well, but it had absolutely no lens shift capabilities (besides zoom and focus), which, because of my theater setup, forced me to place the projector on the ground.


Here's two side-by-side views of the Optoma HD20 (left) and Epson 8350 (right).

















I was curious about the lumen output of the 8350, so I decided to do a comparison between the two projectors.


Before I being my review, let me say I am no expert when it comes to projectors. If you are trying to decide what product to buy, do not let my review sway your decision. Take what I say with a grain of salt.


Okay, now with that out of the way, let me begin.


I have a 150" projector screen with a throw distance of 19 feet, so getting a bright image is no easy task, especially in a large living room with large windows that leads into other rooms with more windows. And to make things even harder for the two projectors, it was about 2 PM at the time.


With the 8350's default settings, it was capable of producing a slightly brighter image than the HD20 (which has 1700 lumens). However, when I put the 8350 into it's "Living Room" setting, I was surprised to see the image brightness increase to a point where there was no comparison between the HD20 and 8350. The blacks weren't pitch black, but they definitely weren't as gray anymore. I was able to see text clearly without having to squint.


I took some before-and-after pictures to show the results, but I do not feel the pictures do either of these projectors any justice. If you want them, PM me.


Anybody have any questions or requests? I plan on watching a few movies later tonight, so I'll be able to do a little bit more testing then.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vauktu* /forum/post/19304531
> 
> 
> So, after ordering my Epson 8350 from VA 3 days ago, I was surprised to find a package sitting on my front door this morning...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 will be replacing my Optoma HD20 projector that I bought in April. The little HD20 served me well, but it had absolutely no lens shift capabilities (besides zoom and focus), which, because of my theater setup, forced me to place the projector on the ground.
> 
> 
> Here's two side-by-side views of the Optoma HD20 (left) and Epson 8350 (right).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was curious about the lumen output of the 8350, so I decided to do a comparison between the two projectors.
> 
> 
> Before I being my review, let me say I am no expert when it comes to projectors. If you are trying to decide what product to buy, do not let my review sway your decision. Take what I say with a grain of salt.
> 
> 
> Okay, now with that out of the way, let me begin.
> 
> 
> I have a 150" projector screen with a throw distance of 19 feet, so getting a bright image is no easy task, especially in a large living room with large windows that leads into other rooms with more windows. And to make things even harder for the two projectors, it was about 2 PM at the time.
> 
> 
> With the 8350's default settings, it was capable of producing a slightly brighter image than the HD20 (which has 1400 lumens). However, when I put the 8350 into it's "Living Room" setting, I was surprised to see the image brightness increase to a point where there was no comparison between the HD20 and 8350. The blacks weren't pitch black, but they definitely weren't as gray anymore. I was able to see text clearly without having to squint.
> 
> 
> I took some before-and-after pictures to show the results, but I do not feel the pictures do either of these projectors any justice. If you want them, PM me.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any questions or requests? I plan on watching a few movies later tonight, so I'll be able to do a little bit more testing then.



Hmmm...they look the same size to me.










Everyone here knows that screenshot pics are pretty much just for fun, so I'd say go ahead and post them.







We love screenshots, even if they're totally worthless.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vauktu* /forum/post/19304531
> 
> 
> So, after ordering my Epson 8350 from VA 3 days ago, I was surprised to find a package sitting on my front door this morning...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 will be replacing my Optoma HD20 projector that I bought in April. The little HD20 served me well, but it had absolutely no lens shift capabilities (besides zoom and focus), which, because of my theater setup, forced me to place the projector on the ground.
> 
> 
> Here's two side-by-side views of the Optoma HD20 (left) and Epson 8350 (right).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was curious about the lumen output of the 8350, so I decided to do a comparison between the two projectors.
> 
> 
> Before I being my review, let me say I am no expert when it comes to projectors. If you are trying to decide what product to buy, do not let my review sway your decision. Take what I say with a grain of salt.
> 
> 
> Okay, now with that out of the way, let me begin.
> 
> 
> I have a 150" projector screen with a throw distance of 19 feet, so getting a bright image is no easy task, especially in a large living room with large windows that leads into other rooms with more windows. And to make things even harder for the two projectors, it was about 2 PM at the time.
> 
> 
> With the 8350's default settings, it was capable of producing a slightly brighter image than the HD20 (which has 1400 lumens). However, when I put the 8350 into it's "Living Room" setting, I was surprised to see the image brightness increase to a point where there was no comparison between the HD20 and 8350. The blacks weren't pitch black, but they definitely weren't as gray anymore. I was able to see text clearly without having to squint.
> 
> 
> I took some before-and-after pictures to show the results, but I do not feel the pictures do either of these projectors any justice. If you want them, PM me.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any questions or requests? I plan on watching a few movies later tonight, so I'll be able to do a little bit more testing then.



Thanks for posting your setup. It mirrors mine except I have less windows and my screen is 140" and made it 17' instead of the 19'. This def. eases my mind!


----------



## vik_tx

another noob question....can this be placed upside down for ceiling placement ( need to hand it from the ceiling)


----------



## eddieb187

I just finished plugging in Art's Calibrated Settings.

I'm using the Cinema mode settings.

I have to admit the colors look a little better.

Especially the flesh tones.

Everything looks more natural.

Thanks Art.


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19305029
> 
> 
> another noob question....can this be placed upside down for ceiling placement ( need to hand it from the ceiling)



Yes it can be placed upside down.


----------



## andrios

Wow you guys place your projector far from screen. My plan was to put it from 12-14 feet away and throw it on a 100". What would be ideal as far as zoom goes?


Maybe I should just check out the throw calc


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vauktu* /forum/post/19304531
> 
> 
> With the 8350's default settings, it was capable of producing a slightly brighter image than the HD20 (which has 1400 lumens).



Oops!


Where are all you Fact-checkers! The HD-20 sports 1700 Lumens. I've used it a few times and if one can mount it optimally (proper Height and shortest throw Distance) it can burn a hole through a painted wall!


It performs small miracles on a 86" diagonal screen if the Throw is held to 10% of it's shortest distance.


But it's lumens drop off really quick with any increase in distance.....a trait specific to DLPs. Even so, for it's time and place in the Sun, it offered some real "Bang for the Buck"


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19305138
> 
> 
> Oops!
> 
> 
> Where are all you Fact-checkers! The HD-20 sports 1700 Lumens. I've used it a few times and if one can mount it optimally (proper Height and shortest throw Distance) it can burn a hole through a painted wall!
> 
> 
> It performs small miracles on a 86" diagonal screen if the Throw is held to 10% of it's shortest distance.
> 
> 
> But it's lumens drop off really quick with any increase in distance.....a trait specific to DLPs. Even so, for it's time and place in the Sun, it offered some real "Bang for the Buck"



Should I mess with zoom if im throwing at 12-14' on a 100" with the 8350?


What should zoom be set at to get the most out of the Pj?


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

I have mine at 10'ft throwing to a 100"


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have mine at 10'ft throwing to a 100"



Nice, have you adjusted zoom at all?


Did you set it at 10' because you were space limited or is that an optimal distance?


Basically I just wanna get the most lumens I can if I need to use this with ambient light, and obviously turn it down if I wanna watch movie with lights off.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

With 8ft ceilings and a 100" screen the minimum is 9'8". This setup is in my living room with ambient light during the day and at night completely blacked out w/ fully controllable dimmers. I came from the 8100 w/ a 120" screen at 13ft away and that was a very bright scenario. I have learned my lesson though size really above 110" is hurting the picture with the 8100/8350. I install 9500/9700 up to 120" and the outcome is better but lumens loss, color loss and black levels suffer at 120" on the 8100/8350.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19305305
> 
> 
> With 8ft ceilings and a 100" screen the minimum is 9'8". This setup is in my living room with ambient light during the day and at night completely blacked out w/ fully controllable dimmers. I came from the 8100 w/ a 120" screen at 13ft away and that was a very bright scenario.



Nice!


My ceilings are about 8.5 feet high with a living room similar to yours. I also have fully controllable dimmers.


Thanks for the good news, you should take a pic of your screen with lights on =P


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

U can see my vimeo video here with ambient light and lights on when I had my 8100.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

A pic, stupid iPhone, pic on the left is not mine.


----------



## talk2rider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/19302373
> 
> 
> man, 8 pages and only one person has posted pics? This is ridiculous! More image shots!



My kingdom for a frickin' HDMI cable! I have two 25 ft cables on order now...hoping one shows up before the weekend. I drove all over town looking for a 25 ft HDMI cable that didn't cost more than the GDP of a small country...what is the deal! I think the cheapest cable I saw was $60 - absolutely ridiculous.


----------



## Shag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19305305
> 
> 
> With 8ft ceilings and a 100" screen the minimum is 9'8". This setup is in my living room with ambient light during the day and at night completely blacked out w/ fully controllable dimmers. I came from the 8100 w/ a 120" screen at 13ft away and that was a very bright scenario. *I have learned my lesson though size really above 110" is hurting the picture with the 8100/8350*. I install 9500/9700 up to 120" and the outcome is better but lumens loss, color loss and black levels suffer at 120" on the 8100/8350.



What makes you say this (the bolded)? I'd be curious to hear others' thoughts on this statement, and if it's accurate or not...


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19305346
> 
> 
> U can see my vimeo video here with ambient light and lights on when I had my 8100.



nice video, awesome setup!!


----------



## talk2rider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19305431
> 
> 
> What makes you say this (the bolded)? I'd be curious to hear others' thoughts on this statement, and if it's accurate or not...



I have a 133" electric screen in a 20ft room, and I pretty much agree with Mazda74Speed3's assertion. I myself had pretty much come to the conclusion that if I were to replace my current screen I would likely go with a 120" fixed screen. My current screen is 8 years old and getting a little billowy. The electric screen is nice for keeping it clean - except for when it rolls up and smashes the bugs that were sitting on it!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19305411
> 
> 
> My kingdom for a frickin' HDMI cable! I have two 25 ft cables on order now...hoping one shows up before the weekend. I drove all over town looking for a 25 ft HDMI cable that didn't cost more than the GDP of a small country...what is the deal! I think the cheapest cable I saw was $60 - absolutely ridiculous.



Oh Lordy.


I should be whipped, purged, and strung up!




There is a company in Walnut Creek, CA with a additional Warehouse in Georgia called *"Compatible Cable"* They sell uber quality HDMI 1.4 cords for..............

............$1.00 per foot.










Contact: Bill Hawkins 925-256-4646


That's right. get a spec'd 50' HDMI 1.4 cord for $50.00.


And delivery time is as fast as anywhere I have ever encountered, plus I've never ordered any size they did not have in stock.


I'm truly sorry I have not shared this gem with all ya all before this. This outlet has been a veritable Godsend to me, being the cheap arse B_ _stard I am when it comes to wanting the best quality at the lowest price.


Tell 'em MississippiMan sent'cha. ( See how far that get's ya!







)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19305431
> 
> 
> What makes you say this (the bolded)? I'd be curious to hear others' thoughts on this statement, and if it's accurate or not...



Simple. Wrong Screen. I've made up 212" diagonal examples and shot at them with a JVC RS-2 (700 Lumens) and came away with some very nice compliments..


It's all about "balance'.


----------



## talk2rider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19305559
> 
> 
> Oh Lordy.
> 
> 
> I should be whipped, purged, and strung up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a company in Walnut Creek, CA with a additional Warehouse in Georgia called *"Compatible Cable"* They sell uber quality HDMI 1.4 cords for..............
> 
> ............$1.00 per foot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Contact: Bill Hawkins 925-256-4646
> 
> 
> That's right. get a spec'd 50' HDMI 1.4 cord for $50.00.
> 
> 
> And delivery time is as fast as anywhere I have ever encountered, plus I've never ordered any size they did not have in stock.
> 
> 
> I'm truly sorry I have not shared this gem with all ya all before this. This outlet has been a veritable Godsend to me, being the cheap arse B_ _stard I am when it comes to wanting the best quality at the lowest price.
> 
> 
> Tell 'em MississippiMan sent'cha. ( See how far that get's ya!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



While we are on the topic of HDMI cables, can you give us a quick primer on what all those different standards mean? I don't live and breath this stuff, so when I see HDMI 1.3, 1.3a, 1.3b, and 1.4, sweat forms on my upper lip. Epson seems to go out of their way to mention HDMI 1.3a in their literature when they describe the connectors on the machine...I assume that as long as you attach 1.3a or higher cables you are good to go. (?)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19305201
> 
> 
> Should I mess with zoom if im throwing at 12-14' on a 100" with the 8350?
> 
> 
> What should zoom be set at to get the most out of the Pj?



???










You only use zoom if you need to, and that is primarily when your Throw is so close you must use Zoom to get the size you desire.


For most PJs, the best Zoom setting is 3/4 to 4/5 wide open and the PJ set ar it's closest thrown for that setting.


Unfortunately, for many, being able to look up just ahead of the seating area and notice a Pj hanging there ruins the "detached from reality" effect many adore. Used to was...the reason it was not cool was "light Leakage" out the rear of the PJ's casing. These days with the larger 1080p units (...all the good ones are sizable...) it's more a matter of Real Estate blight.


That is a primary reason why so many opt to place a PJ as far back as possible, and in doing so eliminate most chances to afford themselves of the PJ's best brightness factor.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19305601
> 
> 
> ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You only use zoom if you need to, and that is primarily when your Throw is so close you must use Zoom to get the size you desire.
> 
> 
> For most PJs, the best Zoom setting is 3/4 to 4/5 wide open and the PJ set ar it's closest thrown for that setting.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, for many, being able to look up just ahead of the seating area and notice a Pj hanging there ruins the "detached from reality" effect many adore. Used to was...the reason it was not cool was "light Leakage" out the rear of the PJ's casing. These days with the larger 1080p units (...all the good ones are sizable...) it's more a matter of Real Estate blight.
> 
> 
> That is a primary reason why so many opt to place a PJ as far back as possible, and in doing so eliminate most chances to afford themselves of the PJ's best brightness factor.



As you can tell im a noob lol.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19305588
> 
> 
> While we are on the topic of HDMI cables, can you give us a quick primer on what all those different standards mean? I don't live and breath this stuff, so when I see HDMI 1.3, 1.3a, 1.3b, and 1.4, sweat forms on my upper lip. Epson seems to go out of their way to mention HDMI 1.3a in their literature when they describe the connectors on the machine...I assume that as long as you attach 1.3a or higher cables you are good to go. (?)



It has everything to do with Bandwith transmission capabilities.


The lower the numbered version on a cable, the more restrictive in transmission the cable is. (...think a 18 gauge Extension on a 200 watt Space heater...)


For Standard deffinition and Basic HD (1080i), they are all good. For 1080p...1.3b is good to 15-20' (70'-80' amplified) 1.3a out to 35' However HDMI cables that have 22 gauge conductors are among the best...and 1.4's always have that specification. They also have the best sheilding, and are always about as thick as a hefty man's Pinky. As such, they can effectively transmit a LOT of information at a very high rate and with a very low incident of loss along a very long distance.


That is also why they are the del-facto standard for 3D content.


If they happen to cost a King's ransom, they might seem to be excessive. But at $1.00 per foot, it's foolish not to avail one's self of such. I'm just say'in.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Anyone own the 8100 and looking to upgrade to the 8350? I'm debating it, but not sure if it's worth the leap or even a big leap? Thanks! Also has anyone received theirs from Electronics Expo? Also any new coupon? DEALSOFAMERICA doesn't work, nor does BIGBEN.


----------



## pbmax542

Getting my 8350 tomorrow as a replacement for my 5th defective Epson projector in a row. I have the worst luck. First 4 were 6100s and the latest is an 8100. Hopefully I will get a good one. I am well past frustrated with Epson quality issues. Each unit has had a different issue or set of issues. At least Epson has awesome customer support. I wasn't even trying to get this latest unit replaced. I just sent them an email letting them know how I felt and that I had decided to just deal with the hot spot, red tinted corner and poor convergence on my 8100, and they called me and told me that an 8350 was on it's way to my house. Gotta love Epson PR.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19305774
> 
> 
> Getting my 8350 tomorrow as a replacement for my 5th defective Epson projector in a row. I have the worst luck. First 4 were 6100s and the latest is an 8100. Hopefully I will get a good one. I am well past frustrated with Epson quality issues. Each unit has had a different issue or set of issues. At least Epson has awesome customer support. I wasn't even trying to get this latest unit replaced. I just sent them an email letting them know how I felt and that I had decided to just deal with the hot spot, red tinted corner and poor convergence on my 8100, and they called me and told me that an 8350 was on it's way to my house. Gotta love Epson PR.



Sorry for the bad experience, but that's good to hear about them sending you an 8350.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19305774
> 
> 
> Getting my 8350 tomorrow as a replacement for my 5th defective Epson projector in a row. I have the worst luck. First 4 were 6100s and the latest is an 8100. Hopefully I will get a good one. I am well past frustrated with Epson quality issues. Each unit has had a different issue or set of issues. At least Epson has awesome customer support. I wasn't even trying to get this latest unit replaced. I just sent them an email letting them know how I felt and that I had decided to just deal with the hot spot, red tinted corner and poor convergence on my 8100, and they called me and told me that an 8350 was on it's way to my house. Gotta love Epson PR.



Good to know. That makes me feel good (well, the cust support part) about migrating from Panny to Epson.


----------



## asay82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vauktu* /forum/post/19304531



Man, thats big, could you please confirm the dimensions of the shipping box? could this be fitted in a traveling bag? i'm currently in the US and thinking of buying either this or the HC4000.


leaning towards the HC4000, cause its smaller and does not need filters. but if prices stays the same, epson could be my choice.


----------



## Vauktu

Little update... I didn't have much time to do anything tonight. Spent the last 4 hours getting a projector mount onto the wall. Ran into a few problems... but it's up there now. Let's hope it doesn't fall.










The only thing I had time for was a few quick tests. I threw in Avatar and right away I noticed how smooth the picture was compared to my Optoma HD20. I didn't notice much of a remarkable difference in terms of picture quality but it's easy to say the Epson performed better. I was able to stand 2 or 3 feet away from the image and could not notice any pixelation. I could spot it but only if I tried looking.


I made some adjustments to the 8350 and followed Art's instructions on his review. Didn't notice much of a difference between his settings and the default settings, but something is telling me Art's settings made the picture look more realistic. I'll stick with his settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19305138
> 
> 
> Oops!
> 
> 
> Where are all you Fact-checkers! The HD-20 sports 1700 Lumens. I've used it a few times and if one can mount it optimally (proper Height and shortest throw Distance) it can burn a hole through a painted wall!
> 
> 
> It performs small miracles on a 86" diagonal screen if the Throw is held to 10% of it's shortest distance.
> 
> 
> But it's lumens drop off really quick with any increase in distance.....a trait specific to DLPs. Even so, for it's time and place in the Sun, it offered some real "Bang for the Buck"



Thanks for bringing that up. You're right. I corrected my post.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asay82* /forum/post/19306153
> 
> 
> Man, thats big, could you please confirm the dimensions of the shipping box? could this be fitted in a traveling bag? i'm currently in the US and thinking of buying either this or the HC4000.
> 
> 
> leaning towards the HC4000, cause its smaller and does not need filters. but if prices stays the same, epson could be my choice.



The box has a length of 20 inches, width of 18 inches, and a height of 11 inches.


Also, if you're curious about the projector's dimensions, there is some information on Epson's 8350 product page under "Specifications": http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/19305715
> 
> 
> Anyone own the 8100 and looking to upgrade to the 8350? I'm debating it, but not sure if it's worth the leap or even a big leap? Thanks! Also has anyone received theirs from Electronics Expo? Also any new coupon? DEALSOFAMERICA doesn't work, nor does BIGBEN.



mine is on the ways. have tracking. coming on monday from them.

I think you should call them to match the price.

Call and contact John on extention 151. if you tell him I bought it for 1199$ shipped. he might match it. try and let me know. I got it for $1199 and on the reciept they emailed me, I saw DEALSOFAMERICA written so I shared it here. that made the price $1169.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/19305715
> 
> 
> Anyone own the 8100 and looking to upgrade to the 8350? I'm debating it, but not sure if it's worth the leap or even a big leap? Thanks! Also has anyone received theirs from Electronics Expo? Also any new coupon? DEALSOFAMERICA doesn't work, nor does BIGBEN.



I own the 8100 and I am getting the 8350 tomorrow. I will post my thoughts on the upgrade before the end of the weekend. Even though my 8100 has some problems, I should be able to tell the difference in black level and color accuracy. I will be using video essentials for my calibration. If I can get my wife to take some screenshots with her 5D MKII, I will post them. Her camera does a great job of capturing detail accurately.


One question. Does anyone know if the 8350 supports 12 bit color processing? On Epson's website the overview say, "C2Fine 12-bit technology" and "Smooth gradations 12-bit chip technology." However, when you click on specifications, it says, "Color Processing: Full 10-bit."

Check it out:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120


----------



## davyo

So I've had my 8350 since Wen (purchased from Visual Apex,, their the best).

Upgraded from the 8100 that I only had for a week but I can say I think the 8350 is a clear upgrade from the 8100 (in spite of the limited time I spent with the 8100)


As far as brightness/lumens,,,going from memory, I think this PJ is just as bright as my much loved Panny AX200 (and that thing was a flame thrower).


So much has alrady been said here about the 8350 I dont really think I have anything new to offer so I just figured I would post some random pictures of my "almost" completed room and some screen shots from the 8350.


Settings, no tweeking yet, just out of the box, in Vivid mode, I like Vivid better than any of the other modes so far so Im sure I will leave it there.

106" electric screen that comes down in front of my Vizio 55" LED (love my Vizio LED, it has a killer picture).


Walls recently painted flat black (have not painted the ceiling yet or the baseboards).


I decided not to use my projector mount and instead built a ceiling box to place the 8350 inside, makes it easier to do maintance on the Epson and to hide cords/cables inside the box (Im in a rental so I can put cable's inside the walls).


Ok,, thats all I can think of for now,,, enjoy the pictures.

Cheers

Davyo


----------



## jpolachak

Davyo what model/brand screen are you using?


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19306456
> 
> 
> As far as brightness/lumens,,,going from memory, I think this PJ is just as bright as my much loved Panny AX200 (and that thing was a flame thrower).



That's good to hear. I just sold my AE900, and was close to picking up the AX200 when they announced the 8350. My projector is about 16' from my 106" screen, and I want to get something bright. My AE900 had dimmed quite a bit as the bulb got older, so now I am paranoid about my new projector being bright enough. The room is totally light controlled, and mostly flat black in color...so the 8350 should get the job done you think? I need to order something soon, I want it set up by next weekend.


Andy


----------



## dhahlen

Ugh, amazon not in stock until Nov 15th!!!!


Edit: Nevermind, thats the 8500UB










In regard to the pictures posted on HD20 vs 8350... that's probably the size difference I'll be dealing with as well (HD70). I have one of those cheap ebay mounts and it works well, it looks like I'll need a beefier mount for the 8350.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ugh, amazon not in stock until Nov 15th!!!!
> 
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, thats the 8500UB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In regard to the pictures posted on HD20 vs 8350... that's probably the size difference I'll be dealing with as well (HD70). I have one of those cheap ebay mounts and it works well, it looks like I'll need a beefier mount for the 8350.



Amazon are not stocking the 8350 yet. I'm sure they will eventually


----------



## bnichols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19306367
> 
> 
> I
> 
> One question. Does anyone know if the 8350 supports 12 bit color processing? On Epson's website the overview say, "C2Fine 12-bit technology" and "Smooth gradations 12-bit chip technology." However, when you click on specifications, it says, "Color Processing: Full 10-bit."
> 
> Check it out:
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120



I just fired mine up to check for you on the info tab. If there is no source turned on it doesn't list anything. When I turn on my PS3 it says 12-bit.

HTH

-Bob


----------



## eddieb187

Here are a few shots I took last night.

This is after I applied the Cinema calibrated settings.

These are the settings from Art's review linked below.

Definite improvement in the color. More natural.

Especially the skin tone.

Thank you Art for another great review.
http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## pbmax542

Does anyone know if the 8350 supports 12 bit color processing? On Epson's website the overview say, "C2Fine™ 12-bit technology" and "Smooth gradations — 12-bit chip technology." However, when you click on specifications, it says, "Color Processing: Full 10-bit."

Check it out:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19307887
> 
> 
> Here are a few shots I took last night.
> 
> This is after I applied the Cinema calibrated settings.
> 
> These are the settings from Art's review linked below.
> 
> Definite improvement in the color. More natural.
> 
> Especially the skin tone.
> 
> Thank you Art for another great review.
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php



do you have a total light controlled room?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19307897
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the 8350 supports 12 bit color processing? On Epson's website the overview say, "C2Fine 12-bit technology" and "Smooth gradations 12-bit chip technology." However, when you click on specifications, it says, "Color Processing: Full 10-bit."
> 
> Check it out:
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120



It was answered a few posts ago. With a PS3 it shows 12 bit.


----------



## Dogllama

Has anyone tried Projector Central's color recommends? Can you see a big diff between Art's and PC's?


(still waiting for my projector, can't get it till monday because Epson shipped it FedEx Ground and even though it's on the stupid truck for delivery, I won't be home, and they're not open on weekends. Done with PP. Next pj will be from Visual Apex)


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19307926
> 
> 
> do you have a total light controlled room?



No, quite the opposite.

I put up a couple of pictures.

Look at Post #33 on Page 2.

Obviously I have to wait for darkness.

I wish I had a dedicated theater.

But at night it's works out just fine.

With a bright projector it nice.

Especially if you have company over.

Football games with some lights on is not a problem.


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19308150
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried Projector Central's color recommends? Can you see a big diff between Art's and PC's?
> 
> 
> (still waiting for my projector, can't get it till monday because Epson shipped it FedEx Ground and even though it's on the stupid truck for delivery, I won't be home, and they're not open on weekends. Done with PP. Next pj will be from Visual Apex)





I had the same issue with PP. Fortunately my house must have been one of the FedEx driver's first stops as he was here by 8:00AM and I was still home. Just in case, I had left a note on the front door stating it was OK to leave package and I signed the note. He said it wouldn't have mattered. Since the package required a "direct " signature, he couldn't have left it by the door.


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19308150
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried Projector Central's color recommends? Can you see a big diff between Art's and PC's?



I tried PCs settings on my 8350 and didn't see much improvement.

I agree Super White and Auto Iris should be on. But 7500k did not help.

But every projector is different.

I had more luck with Art's Cinema calibrated settings.

The Dynamic settings look pretty good as well.

You can see for yourself, I put up some photos I took last night.

See Post #300 on the bottom Page 10.


----------



## marshalls_acct

I have not owned a projector, but have been looking at them as an option for several years, I have just not pulled the trigger. I had been seriously looking at the 8100 and 8500 and have recently been even closer after reading some of the reviews of the 8350, but am looking to you guys for advice before I make a final decision. Here is my situation:


I am looking to buy a projector as a replacement for my primary TV in my living room. I do not have the ability to completely control ambient light in my living room, but I do have blackout blinds on the living room windows, though some light seeps in around the edges and some light comes in from the entryway and the dining room.


My question is if it would be realistic to expect to be able to watch daytime football with the 8350 projector under these conditions. I would want to project onto a 100" diagonal screen and mount the projector approximately 12-13ft from the screen.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marshalls_acct* /forum/post/19308460
> 
> 
> I have not owned a projector, but have been looking at them as an option for several years, I have just not pulled the trigger. I had been seriously looking at the 8100 and 8500 and have recently been even closer after reading some of the reviews of the 8350, but am looking to you guys for advice before I make a final decision. Here is my situation:
> 
> 
> I am looking to buy a projector as a replacement for my primary TV in my living room. I do not have the ability to completely control ambient light in my living room, but I do have blackout blinds on the living room windows, though some light seeps in around the edges and some light comes in from the entryway and the dining room.
> 
> 
> My question is if it would be realistic to expect to be able to watch daytime football with the 8350 projector under these conditions. I would want to project onto a 100" diagonal screen and mount the projector approximately 12-13ft from the screen.



Yes, you can watch daytime football, but it will require (depending on just how much ambient light we're talking) a high gain screen and for the projector to mounted appropriately. A Dalite High Power screen is pretty ideal for that situation. It's retro-reflective, which means it reflects light back to the source. In other words, it sends ambient light back to the windows, and the light from the projector back towards the lens.


----------



## Amber1

I see that a few of you purchased 8350's from electronic expo. Did any one of you receive the projector yet? how long did it take and how was the experience? Please post feedback.


----------



## Amber1

Can someone recommend a decent flush mount for the 8350? Not the expensive kind. Looking for a basic flush mount $50 -$100 range max...


----------



## Indyjones007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19308591
> 
> 
> I see that a few of you purchased 8350's from electronic expo. Did any one of you receive the projector yet? how long did it take and how was the experience? Please post feedback.



It's on its way. Should be here beginning/mid next week (according to UPS)


----------



## hayatiakbas

*DISCOUNT PRICED EPSON 8350*

Hey Guys,


I am the person who let people know about Electronics-expo discount. I read from some people that discount is no more available. well I bought the Epson 8350 for $1199. so I called and talked to the rep I bought it from and he said if you call and tell him, he will still honor the same price for you guys as well. I am all about savings, so $100 is something. call Electronics-Expo at 1888-707-3976 and extention 151. his name is john, so call and you say :me or some people got the Epson for $1199 and you said you would still honor it. He said he will do it. Let me know how it goes.

and for people who can not afford $1199 price of Epson 8350. Bestbuy has Epson 8100 on clearance. not on the website but in actual stores. in Los Angeles, some stores sell it for $970 dollars. some sell for $1060 to those stores you gotta tell them to look at other stores pricing and match it. or just drive to the other store and buy it cheaper. in east coast price might be even cheaper. you might be able to get more discounts if you negotiate







I always do. haha


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19308214
> 
> 
> No, quite the opposite.
> 
> I put up a couple of pictures.
> 
> Look at Post #33 on Page 2.
> 
> Obviously I have to wait for darkness.
> 
> I wish I had a dedicated theater.
> 
> But at night it's works out just fine.
> 
> With a bright projector it nice.
> 
> Especially if you have company over.
> 
> Football games with some lights on is not a problem.



your black looks really good. Are you using grey screen? I can't get the top and bottom bar as black as what you have.


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19308591
> 
> 
> I see that a few of you purchased 8350's from electronic expo. Did any one of you receive the projector yet? how long did it take and how was the experience? Please post feedback.



hey I bought from them epson and an denon reciever. they said it would ship on Tuesday and it did. but me being is west coast and them being in east coast. ground delivery will be on Monday. I have the tracking for both. they are on their way. by the way read my earlier post. They rep over there will match that discount code price.

I will let all know when I get it on monday. but obviously they have it in stock and shipping.


----------



## dhahlen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19308660
> 
> *DISCOUNT PRICED EPSON 8350*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> I am the person who let people know about Electronics-expo discount. I read from some people that discount is no more available. well I bought the Epson 8350 for $1199. so I called and talked to the rep I bought it from and he said if you call and tell him, he will still honor the same price for you guys as well. I am all about savings, so $100 is something. call Electronics-Expo at 1888-707-3976 and extention 151. his name is john, so call and you say :me or some people got the Epson for $1199 and you said you would still honor it. He said he will do it. Let me know how it goes.
> 
> and for people who can not afford $1199 price of Epson 8350. Bestbuy has Epson 8100 on clearance. not on the website but in actual stores. in Los Angeles, some stores sell it for $970 dollars. some sell for $1060 to those stores you gotta tell them to look at other stores pricing and match it. or just drive to the other store and buy it cheaper. in east coast price might be even cheaper. you might be able to get more discounts if you negotiate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always do. haha



Good deal if you can find an 8100 for under 1000 locally, thanks.


----------



## Amber1

i recall your earlier post! How were able to negotiate the price for the 1911 receiver? That is an excellent price! thanks for the update on the projector. I am just waiting to find a decent flush mount before placing the order...


----------



## coachagee

Hello everyone,


Been lurking at this site for a while and I recently got bit by the upgrade bug.

I have chosen to go with this projector due to the solid reviews and competive pricing.

Coming from a HD65 I look forward to the WOW factor again.


Also if any are interested in purchasing from electronics expo I just placed my order and used code LSDA1004 and it shaved 15% off the price not including shipping.


I hope all goes well with the purchase and I will try to give updates.


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coachagee* /forum/post/19309034
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> Been lurking at this site for a while and I recently got bit by the upgrade bug.
> 
> I have chosen to go with this projector due to the solid reviews and competive pricing.
> 
> Coming from a HD65 I look forward to the WOW factor again.
> 
> 
> Also if any are interested in purchasing from electronics expo I just placed my order and used code LSDA1004 and it shaved 15% off the price not including shipping.
> 
> 
> I hope all goes well with the purchase and I will try to give updates.



Thanks sir, it shows as $1220ish after coupon to me and shipping ($1188+30ship via ground)... not quite 15% but very nice. =D I'm probably going to sell off my 8100 and buy the 8350. It's only @ 180 hours on the lamp, so it shouldn't be too hard to sell for a good price.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

^^^ Those prices are pretty much standard now......


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19308923
> 
> 
> i recall your earlier post! How were able to negotiate the price for the 1911 receiver? That is an excellent price! thanks for the update on the projector. I am just waiting to find a decent flush mount before placing the order...



I read the cnet review of the Denon AVR 1911 and was amazed. but its not cheap anywhere. its selling for $599 at amazon. online powersellernyc selling for cheaper but they are not reliable and not a Authorized dealer. so when I called for Epson 8350, John also gave me Denon for $427. thats a great price on it. if you tell him that you want the Denon for the same price he will match I am sure. call and see if they have it. if not Visual apex or Amazon might have it. I don't buy from ebay. to cheap quality mounts. I set it on my on a shelf so I am good.


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19309165
> 
> 
> ^^^ Those prices are pretty much standard now......



Only from some shady ebay sellers that I see offhand, froogle (google shopping) doesn't pull up many shops with it in-stock yet? Please do correct me if I'm wrong, =).


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

▼ ▼ ▼


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19309268
> 
> ▼ ▼ ▼



Thank you!


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19308673
> 
> 
> your black looks really good. Are you using grey screen? I can't get the top and bottom bar as black as what you have.



Not Grey.

I'm using a Da-Lite Model B with CSR.

It's Matte White and I think the Gain is 1.0.

And it's 106" diagonal screen.

My throw is just under 12'.


----------



## G342

Anyone done any gaming on this yet? How's the input lag?


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G342* /forum/post/19309669
> 
> 
> Anyone done any gaming on this yet? How's the input lag?



I'm curious as well, I do most of my gaming on my PC (30" Dell 3007WFP-HC which has no scaler and is very nice, 2560x1600) but I'd love to hook it up to the projector sometimes for the large size & surround sound uberness.


----------



## G342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/19309690
> 
> 
> I'm curious as well, I do most of my gaming on my PC (30" Dell 3007WFP-HC which has no scaler and is very nice, 2560x1600) but I'd love to hook it up to the projector sometimes for the large size & surround sound uberness.



Same here. I was sold on the 8100 until I read about the 8350 coming out, and since I'll be doing the majority of my gaming on this, I'd definitely like to hear and see some numbers if anyone can.


----------



## dhahlen

That makes 3, I too game on my Apple Cinema 30 (same panel as Dell), would like to see how input lag is on this guy. I tried gaming on my HD70, it was ok, but I didn't like the way games looked, 1280x720 is garbage resolution for games.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19309268
> 
> ▼ ▼ ▼



Is the 1,199 pricing now standard from here on out or is Epson offering something to dealers allowing for a temp price decrease?


Thanks!


----------



## n01un0

Does anyone know how to adjust a setting on the PJ if your picture has a bit of a trapazoid picture to it?


The bottom of my picture is wider than my top portion by about a couple of inches. In the troubleshooting section it shows this but says make sure the unit is level. Well, it is level. I tried it both mounted and sitting on a table and both have the same issue. I looked through the manual but didnt see where there was an adjustment for this. Hopefully I am just overlooking it and its a simple fix.


If anyone could help, I would be eternally thankful.


----------



## leov36

Guys pics of peoples projectors on the Internet are always gonna appear to have realty good blacks. You really should not decide what projector to buy or determine how good a projector is by looking at Internet pics. Do yourself a favor and go to a local home theater shop and see the projector in real life.


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n01un0* /forum/post/19309947
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to adjust a setting on the PJ if your picture has a bit of a trapazoid picture to it?
> 
> 
> The bottom of my picture is wider than my top portion by about a couple of inches. In the troubleshooting section it shows this but says make sure the unit is level. Well, it is level. I tried it both mounted and sitting on a table and both have the same issue. I looked through the manual but didnt see where there was an adjustment for this. Hopefully I am just overlooking it and its a simple fix.
> 
> 
> If anyone could help, I would be eternally thankful.



Before you mess with the keystone feature of your pj make sure that your screen is level (both horizontally and vertically), and square with the lens of the pj. I know that you checked the pj but the screen is equally important.


----------



## mj75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davyo* /forum/post/19306456
> 
> 
> So I've had my 8350 since Wen (purchased from Visual Apex,, their the best).
> 
> Upgraded from the 8100 that I only had for a week but I can say I think the 8350 is a clear upgrade from the 8100 (in spite of the limited time I spent with the 8100)
> 
> 
> As far as brightness/lumens,,,going from memory, I think this PJ is just as bright as my much loved Panny AX200 (and that thing was a flame thrower).
> 
> 
> So much has alrady been said here about the 8350 I dont really think I have anything new to offer so I just figured I would post some random pictures of my "almost" completed room and some screen shots from the 8350.
> 
> 
> Settings, no tweeking yet, just out of the box, in Vivid mode, I like Vivid better than any of the other modes so far so Im sure I will leave it there.
> 
> 106" electric screen that comes down in front of my Vizio 55" LED (love my Vizio LED, it has a killer picture).
> 
> 
> Walls recently painted flat black (have not painted the ceiling yet or the baseboards).
> 
> 
> I decided not to use my projector mount and instead built a ceiling box to place the 8350 inside, makes it easier to do maintance on the Epson and to hide cords/cables inside the box (Im in a rental so I can put cable's inside the walls).
> 
> 
> Ok,, thats all I can think of for now,,, enjoy the pictures.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Davyo



How big is your screen? Brand?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Anyone find any thoughts on 8100 vs 8350? Looking forward to your thoughts...


----------



## n01un0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randy Mathis* /forum/post/19310030
> 
> 
> Before you mess with the keystone feature of your pj make sure that your screen is level (both horizontally and vertically), and square with the lens of the pj. I know that you checked the pj but the screen is equally important.



I figured it out. I had it tilted too far downward from the ceiling and using the adjustment to push it up on screen was throwing it outta whack. I pretty much leveled the pj front back side side and then did the lens adjustment.


Worked like a charm.


Thanks.


----------



## n01un0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19308605
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a decent flush mount for the 8350? Not the expensive kind. Looking for a basic flush mount $50 -$100 range max...



I just bought this one today
http://www.omnimount.com/Product/Pro...ounts/3N1-PJT/ 


Only paid 69 for it at HHGregg, it fit like a glove and was a very simple install.

Only hangs down about 3.5 inches.


The only other smaller one I seen while looking this week online was about 2.6 inches. I think it was on mountsandmore.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/19309774
> 
> 
> That makes 3, I too game on my Apple Cinema 30 (same panel as Dell), would like to see how input lag is on this guy. I tried gaming on my HD70, it was ok, but I didn't like the way games looked, 1280x720 is garbage resolution for games.



And here's 4. I've actually asked a couple of people if they do some tests...just hope I'm not being a nuisance or anything.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19309847
> 
> 
> Is the 1,199 pricing now standard from here on out or is Epson offering something to dealers allowing for a temp price decrease? Thanks!



Competition is fierce. Epson lowered the MSRP on these 8350 at $1299compared to the 8100 at $1499. Guess what, dealer cost is still the same. Enjoy as dealers quabble, lol.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/19310195
> 
> 
> Anyone find any thoughts on 8100 vs 8350? Looking forward to your thoughts...



So far the 8350 is looking a good deal better than any of my 6100s and my 8100. The dynamic range seems to be the greatest improvement. Blacks still aren't black, but shadow detail is improved.


I noticed that some people are saying to turn on Epson super white, but I found this to be a bad idea. When super white is left on, HDMI video range cannot be set to expanded. This results in serious clipping of black levels and reduces shadow detail. Instead of turning on Super White, set HDMI video range to Expanded. This improves both white and black levels considerably.


I also found that the 8350 does accept 12 bit deep color, whereas the 6100 and 8100 would not. I honestly don't see any improvement going from 10 bit to 12 bit, but it's nice to have anyway.


I do have one issue so far with my 8350, but it's not a deal breaker. When it's in 1080p24 on blu-ray menus, it occasionally zooms way in and a couple of green staticy bars start flashing on the screen. The only way I have found to get through this, is to turn my oppo to 1080i. So, I now will just leave the oppo in 1080i until my movie actually starts and then switch over to 1080p24. This is a pain, but I am willing to deal with it, because this is my first Epson pj that doesn't have any major picture quality issues.


When I went from a 6100 to an 8100 I saw absolutely no improvement. I am happy to say that going from an 8100 to an 8350 is a different story. IMO, the 8350's improved shadow detail and inorganic panels take it a large step past its predecessor.


Yeah, the quirky 1080p blu-ray menu issue is going to be a pain, but I can certainly deal with it since the pq is awesome. However, if this wasn't the 6th Epson projector I've owned this year, I would probably be calling for a replacement. At this point I am worried that if I tried to return my 8350 because of this minor issue, I would wind up getting a refurb unit shipped to me with an even worse issue.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19305360
> 
> 
> A pic, stupid iPhone, pic on the left is not mine.



Hey nice setup! Are those B&Ws CM9 ?


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19310658
> 
> 
> Hey nice setup! Are those B&Ws CM9 ?



Thanks, 683's


----------



## fitbrit

Okay, I'm going to eat humble pie and ask for advice. Same questions as many others before me, but with my parameters. I need to know what type of screen would be best for an 8350 projecting from 13-14 ft onto a 120" diagonal, in a pretty well light controlled room. Seating will be 11-15 ft away.

I'm looking for screen colour, gain etc. The screen will be motorised and will drop down in front of an LCD TV. In particular will any of the 4 types on this PDF (from Eastporters) be suitable? I'm thinking the low gain white (1.2) or grey (1.1). I can't really afford to spend more on a screen at the moment than the under $400 prices at Eastporters. Maybe in a couple of years I can get something better (more expensive) if I think I'm missing out.


P.S. If MississippiMan is reading this, regardless of whether you respond or not, I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously, both in this thread and many others.


----------



## pbmax542

Here is a video showing the 1080p menu issue that I am having on my new Epson 8350. I apologize in advance for my boring monotone voice. enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnDOQWDdRbI


----------



## lavine

Looks like Visual Apex has lowered the price of the Epson 8350 to $1199 w/ free shipping. Price is valid until Oct. 17th. Just ordered mine. Debated the Electronics Expo deal but the reports on Reseller Ratings were making them look very iffy.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lavine* /forum/post/19310826
> 
> 
> Looks like Visual Apex has lowered the price of the Epson 8350 to $1199 w/ free shipping. Price is valid until Oct. 17th. Just ordered mine. Debated the Electronics Expo deal but the reports on Reseller Rating were making them look very iffy.



Thanks for the heads up. I just sold my AE900 and I believe I'll order the 8350 today, at that price. This will be the first projector I've ordered from Visual Apex, should I ask for a particular sales person? Anybody have a recommendation?


Very stoked to see the improvement from my old AE900...


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

^^^ Like I said, becoming more of a standard price...... I am just glad the sun has desided to come back out in ohio, lol











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19310665
> 
> 
> Thanks, 683's



B & W makes a good speaker. Here are some swan 2.3B ( If any interest ) >>> Click Here


----------



## Joco1114

In Europe they sold it for $2000-$2100 and named it to "Epson EH-TW3600". ****.


----------



## clausdk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/19311022
> 
> 
> In Europe they sold it for $2000-$2100 and named it to "Epson EH-TW3600". ****.



EU price seems a bit high at the moment. Hopefully it will come down a bit. I found the Mits HC4000 to be a little cheaper where I live actually.


----------



## RedSox07

I am interested in the 8350 to project photography in addition to home cinema. I am drawn to the 8350 because of the black levels (critical to my photography) and general high rating. I do not have a dedicated set-up - man cave so to speak- and I would need to set it up and travel with it. But I fear that I may be misguided and I am wondering if the 8350 is too big and possibly delicate to use outside of a dedicated set-up. I would be connecting it to my laptop for DVD and audio. Would the Epson Moviemate 85 be a better choice - although I fear the black levels will be nowhere as good. I also looked into Epson 705 but received feedback that the black levels were lacking. Thanks for any feedback.


----------



## cholak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/19311022
> 
> 
> In Europe they sold it for $2000-$2100 and named it to "Epson EH-TW3600". ****.



Where do you live man?In Italy it could be found for 1339 euro,wich is not bad don't you think?


----------



## hp1223

Just order mine this week from Projector People but I paid $1,299.00.


----------



## Falcore1

A little helps please!

I have reviewed the dimensions of the 8350 on Epson’s web page; however I need the actual footprint, Length and width leg to leg.

Could someone with a unit post these numbers?


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19309585
> 
> 
> Not Grey.
> 
> I'm using a Da-Lite Model B with CSR.
> 
> It's Matte White and I think the Gain is 1.0.
> 
> And it's 106" diagonal screen.
> 
> My throw is just under 12'.



I have the same model sans CSR with the same Matte White screen but only 92" diagonal. I will be projecting from 17' 4". I have a 10' ceiling with the bottom of screen about 4' from the floor. The ceiling is white and the walls are white. The back wall at 19' is a half wall with dark shelves and another 15' before any light would reflect off kitchen cabinets. I will only watch movies at night when it is dark outside.


Considering that the throw is 3/4 of the zoom I wonder if I will still have a bright enough picture for movies in eco and cinema mode combination. Also, if I bought a Da-Lite High power to reduce reflection from walls and ceiling, would I probably fry my retinas on that small a screen even with lowest lumens settings?


Just throwin' this out there.


----------



## Newk2

If you are considering this projector, you might want to wander over to Cleveland Plasma. You may be pleasantly surprised. I bought a Panasonic Plasma from them about 2.5 years ago. Their business practices are exemplary! Also, look at them on reseller ratings. I wouldn't hesitate a second to buy from them again.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19311337
> 
> 
> A little helps please!
> 
> I have reviewed the dimensions of the 8350 on Epson's web page; however I need the actual footprint, Length and width leg to leg.
> 
> Could someone with a unit post theses numbers?



I second this request! Thank you all for your help.


----------



## bnichols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RedSox07* /forum/post/19311172
> 
> 
> I am drawn to the 8350 because of the black levels (critical to my photography) and general high rating. I do not have a dedicated set-up - man cave so to speak- and I would need to set it up and travel with it. But I fear that I may be misguided and I am wondering if the 8350 is too big and possibly delicate to use outside of a dedicated set-up.



If you will be traveling by plane, I would not recommend this projector as it is too big IMHO. Instead I'd look at a DLP technology projector that are much smaller and easier to travel with.

HTH

-Bob


----------



## bnichols




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19311510
> 
> 
> I second this request! Thank you all for your help.



Page 17 of the manual lists the specific dimensions you are looking for.
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19311415
> 
> 
> Considering that the throw is 3/4 of the zoom I wonder if I will still have a bright enough picture for movies in eco and cinema mode combination. Also, if I bought a Da-Lite High power to reduce reflection from walls and ceiling, would I probably fry my retinas on that small a screen even with lowest lumens settings?



The sweet stop is always mid-zoom, 3/4 is not a problem with a 92" screen at that throw.

There are pros and cons to using High Power screens though.

High gains differs from matte white in the sense that they redirect more light in front of the screen and less light to the side. A smaller cone of light.

With a matte white screen you can sit or stand anywhere in the room, the picture will keep the same brightness.

With a high gain screen the picture will be brighter if you are right in front of the screen and darker if you are on the side.

You may be able to leave more lights on but you can wind up with hot spots.

It's a trade off. I use matte white because I have a wide room with lots of seating off to the sides. This way everyone sees a bright image no matter where they sit. Hope this helps your decision. Good luck.


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cholak* /forum/post/19311188
> 
> 
> Where do you live man?In Italy it could be found for 1339 euro,wich is not bad don't you think?



Almost same... 1340 EUR = $1900

BTW I am from Hungary, but I have found same prices in UK.


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19310584
> 
> 
> I do have one issue so far with my 8350, but it's not a deal breaker. When it's in 1080p24 on blu-ray menus, it occasionally zooms way in and a couple of green staticy bars start flashing on the screen. The only way I have found to get through this, is to turn my oppo to 1080i. So, I now will just leave the oppo in 1080i until my movie actually starts and then switch over to 1080p24. This is a pain, but I am willing to deal with it, because this is my first Epson pj that doesn't have any major picture quality issues.



I have an Oppo BDP83 and an Epson 8350 and I have not seen this issue with Blu-Ray menus and 1080p/24. Which Oppo Blu-Ray player do you have?

Have you updated to the latest firmware?

Does this occur with all your Blu-Ray discs?

I have watched quite a few BDs since I got the Pj last Thursday and have not seen this happen. I leave it on 1080p/24.

I do not have that Harry Potter BD though.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

^ HDMI issue for sure!


----------



## ekscden

Speaking of HDMI issues, for those who have this projector, is anyone getting it to work with a 50' HDMI cable without any signal booster? I'd like to go from my Sony Blu Ray player right into the projector and I have a 50' lying around. Curious as to the maximum HDMI runs people are achieving before ordering the projector.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

^ 50ft.... That's scary stuff. There are great HDMI over cat6 baluns out there that work like a charm. That's what I would recommend.


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19312023
> 
> 
> ^ 50ft.... That's scary stuff. There are great HDMI over cat6 baluns out there that work like a charm. That's what I would recommend.



I have 40ft Monoprice HDMI cable that works like a charm







.


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19312007
> 
> 
> Speaking of HDMI issues, for those who have this projector, is anyone getting it to work with a 50' HDMI cable without any signal booster? I'd like to go from my Sony Blu Ray player right into the projector and I have a 50' lying around. Curious as to the maximum HDMI runs people are achieving before ordering the projector.



I'm using a 50' HDMI cable to my 8350.

It's a really thick cable, paid $200.00 for two back in 2005.

"HDMI Cable male to male (22AWG) - 50ft (Gold Plated)"

You can find better cables for much less now.

I have never had any problem with this particular cable.

Some cheap cables can cause Sparkles and signal drops.

I don't think you can ran longer than 50' without boosting the signal.

But a 22AWG or bigger gauge can do 50' just fine.

I got mine from Monoprice. Great place to buy cables.


----------



## Stivie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hp1223* /forum/post/19311289
> 
> 
> Just order mine this week from Projector People but I paid $1,299.00.



So did I, yesterday in fact. I just email my sales rep and hopefully get a price adjustment. I'm also excited to see this in person and hopefully will see an improvement over my panny ax100.


----------



## FrankM100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lavine* /forum/post/19310826
> 
> 
> Looks like Visual Apex has lowered the price of the Epson 8350 to $1199 w/ free shipping. Price is valid until Oct. 17th. Just ordered mine. Debated the Electronics Expo deal but the reports on Reseller Ratings were making them look very iffy.



I got my 8350 in 2 days from Electronics Expo(I'm in CT, think they're in Jersey) for slightly less than $1199 using code RETAILMENOTSAVE for $130 savings.


Also got a 73" Mitsu DLP RP TV from them a month ago with no issues so far.


I'm about to take the 8350 outta the box, but I would hope the box would have a "Fragile" sticker on it. It doesn't. We'll see how it goes...


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stivie* /forum/post/19312338
> 
> 
> So did I, yesterday in fact. I just email my sales rep and hopefully get a price adjustment. I'm also excited to see this in person and hopefully will see an improvement over my panny ax100.



You won't have to hope.


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FrankM100* /forum/post/19312384
> 
> 
> I got my 8350 in 2 days from Electronics Expo(I'm in CT, think they're in Jersey) for slightly less than $1199 using code RETAILMENOTSAVE for $130 savings.
> 
> 
> Also got a 73" Mitsu DLP RP TV from them a month ago with no issues so far.
> 
> 
> I'm about to take the 8350 outta the box, but I would hope the box would have a "Fragile" sticker on it. It doesn't. We'll see how it goes...



Fragile stickers mean nothing. Last time I checked all packages take a 2-3 foot drop at the facilities processing center.


----------



## Amber1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n01un0* /forum/post/19310238
> 
> 
> I just bought this one today
> http://www.omnimount.com/Product/Pro...ounts/3N1-PJT/
> 
> 
> Only paid 69 for it at HHGregg, it fit like a glove and was a very simple install.
> 
> Only hangs down about 3.5 inches.
> 
> 
> The only other smaller one I seen while looking this week online was about 2.6 inches. I think it was on mountsandmore.



Mount looks good. Did you use this with a 8350? Did you have to buy any other screws or did the ones which came with the mount work for 8350? Thanks for the info..


----------



## 96redformula

I must be the only one that gets a monoprice mount....I have had had excellent results with the $13 monoprice projector mount....

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


It is 100% adjustable any direction and you can quickly remove the projector if needed in a minute or two.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19311631
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo BDP83 and an Epson 8350 and I have not seen this issue with Blu-Ray menus and 1080p/24. Which Oppo Blu-Ray player do you have?
> 
> Have you updated to the latest firmware?
> 
> Does this occur with all your Blu-Ray discs?
> 
> I have watched quite a few BDs since I got the Pj last Thursday and have not seen this happen. I leave it on 1080p/24.
> 
> I do not have that Harry Potter BD though.



I have the BDP-83 and it is fully updated. I keep it connected to the internet 24/7. I have only tried 2 blu-ray discs so far, and it has happened with both of them.


----------



## pbmax542

I have had four 6100s and an 8100 that did not suffer from this issue.


----------



## cbtk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bnichols* /forum/post/19311537
> 
> 
> If you will be traveling by plane, I would not recommend this projector as it is too big IMHO. Instead I'd look at a DLP technology projector that are much smaller and easier to travel with.
> 
> HTH
> 
> -Bob



Yeah this 8350 is the same as the 8100 in size and it was HUGE. I have the 705HD also (for portability and putzing around) and it's true the blacks aren't really that good. The image is big and bright but it's a definitely a compromise with the richness of color and and blacks when compared to the 8100.


But on the plus side the 705 hd is about the size of 1 25lb ream (500 sheets) of paper.


the Epson 8x00 is about the size of a DVD/VCR combo player (little thicker actually and deeper actually).


Maybe the HC4000 is a better compromise.


----------



## hp1223

Posted by Stivie


> Quote:
> So did I, yesterday in fact. I just email my sales rep and hopefully get a price adjustment. I'm also excited to see this in person and hopefully will see an improvement over my panny ax100.



I ordered through Kirk


----------



## Lindros88

Is the Pro Cinema 9350 the same as the 8350? Thanks.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19312853
> 
> 
> Is the Pro Cinema 9350 the same as the 8350? Thanks.



In terms of specs they are the same...the difference is an extra year of warranty, extra bulb and ceiling mount. It also comes with ISF calibration options. These are sold through A/V dealers and usually go for $1k more than the home cinema one.


----------



## Falcore1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bnichols* /forum/post/19311550
> 
> 
> Page 17 of the manual lists the specific dimensions you are looking for.
> http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf



Unfortunately page 17 has every dimension except the footprint leg to leg.


----------



## Stivie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hp1223* /forum/post/19312751
> 
> 
> Posted by Stivie
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered through Kirk



I ordered through Todd, I hope that doesn't make a difference. I also went checking on there website and couldn't find anything about price matching competitors prices either, as I said earlier I *hope* it won't be a problem.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

"Unfortunately page 17 has every dimension except the footprint leg to leg."


I just bought an 8350 that I will install at a second home that we rent out to vacationers. I measured the locations of the feet for a shelf I'm building, for which I'm turning plastic cups that will capture the three feet. This will allow the maid to lift the projector off the shelf and put it in locked storage for periods between guests, but assure the correct registration with the screen when she replaces it. The feet are 1.31" in diameter, and are cylinders with a small (~0.1" high) spherical dome on the bottom. The front two feet are 13.59" apart. The front feet are 2.3" behind the front center edge of the projector. The rear foot is 9.79" behind the front foot, and on the projector center line. Hope this helps.


Kevin


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19312587
> 
> 
> I have the BDP-83 and it is fully updated. I keep it connected to the internet 24/7. I have only tried 2 blu-ray discs so far, and it has happened with both of them.



Have you tried another HDMI cable?


----------



## pbmax542

I will try out a different HDMI cable tomorrow, but the current one seemed to work fine on all 4 of my 6100s as well as my 8100.


----------



## active_sport

I ordered an 8350 from Cleveland Plasma on Thursday Night. They have already shipped it and provided me a tracking number. It is due for delivery on Monday. I have done business, in the past, with Visual Apex, but since I am very impatient I opted to go with Clevland Plasma becasue they are only a couple hundred miles away, so shipping via ground is quick. I am replacing an Optoma EP761 Business Projector (which has done an excellent job for me). Currently I have a 35' HDMI to DVI cable (the Optoma used DVI). Becasue the Epson will most likely be mounted in a different spot on the ceiling, I am waiting until I get it mounted before I order a new HDMI cable. I am hoping to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter as a temporary solution. This will allow me to use my currently HDMI/DVI cable. Once placement is solidified, I will order a new HDMI cable. I purchased my last cable from Blue Jean Cables, anyone have other suggestions for good, cost effective cables?


----------



## G342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/19314002
> 
> 
> I ordered an 8350 from Cleveland Plasma on Thursday Night. They have already shipped it and provided me a tracking number. It is due for delivery on Monday. I have done business, in the past, with Visual Apex, but since I am very impatient I opted to go with Clevland Plasma becasue they are only a couple hundred miles away, so shipping via ground is quick. I am replacing an Optoma EP761 Business Projector (which has done an excellent job for me). Currently I have a 35' HDMI to DVI cable (the Optoma used DVI). Becasue the Epson will most likely be mounted in a different spot on the ceiling, I am waiting until I get it mounted before I order a new HDMI cable. I am hoping to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter as a temporary solution. This will allow me to use my currently HDMI/DVI cable. Once placement is solidified, I will order a new HDMI cable. I purchased my last cable from Blue Jean Cables, anyone have other suggestions for good, cost effective cables?



Monoprice cables have always worked very well for me.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ordered an 8350 from Cleveland Plasma on Thursday Night. They have already shipped it and provided me a tracking number. It is due for delivery on Monday. I have done business, in the past, with Visual Apex, but since I am very impatient I opted to go with Clevland Plasma becasue they are only a couple hundred miles away, so shipping via ground is quick. I am replacing an Optoma EP761 Business Projector (which has done an excellent job for me). Currently I have a 35' HDMI to DVI cable (the Optoma used DVI). Becasue the Epson will most likely be mounted in a different spot on the ceiling, I am waiting until I get it mounted before I order a new HDMI cable. I am hoping to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter as a temporary solution. This will allow me to use my currently HDMI/DVI cable. Once placement is solidified, I will order a new HDMI cable. I purchased my last cable from Blue Jean Cables, anyone have other suggestions for good, cost effective cables?


 Www.monoprice.com


----------



## Damien701

Two questions.


Does this projector handle motion well? I watch sports and play games and motion blur matters alot to me. Also, whats the lag like for gaming. 30ms? 40?


I want to pull the trigger on the 8350 so any opinions would be appreciated.


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/19314002
> 
> 
> I ordered an 8350 from Cleveland Plasma on Thursday Night. They have already shipped it and provided me a tracking number. It is due for delivery on Monday. I have done business, in the past, with Visual Apex, but since I am very impatient I opted to go with Clevland Plasma becasue they are only a couple hundred miles away, so shipping via ground is quick. I am replacing an Optoma EP761 Business Projector (which has done an excellent job for me). Currently I have a 35' HDMI to DVI cable (the Optoma used DVI). Becasue the Epson will most likely be mounted in a different spot on the ceiling, I am waiting until I get it mounted before I order a new HDMI cable. I am hoping to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter as a temporary solution. This will allow me to use my currently HDMI/DVI cable. Once placement is solidified, I will order a new HDMI cable. I purchased my last cable from Blue Jean Cables, anyone have other suggestions for good, cost effective cables?



I'll third Monoprice.


----------



## MajesticRus

1200$ for 8350? Amazing! You, americans very, very lucky guys







I am from Russia, our prices too high, for example 8100 is about 1900-2000$ right now. Epson 8350 i think will be 2200-2300.


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajesticRus* /forum/post/19314231
> 
> 
> 1200$ for 8350? Amazing! You, americans very, very lucky guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am from Russia, our prices too high, for example 8100 is about 1900-2000$ right now. Epson 8350 i think will be 2200-2300.



As I told it yesterday:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19311022 


Same high prices in here Europe, Hungary. We have to find out the way to get one!


----------



## Vauktu

I just spent the last half hour comparing an Epson 8350 and Optoma HD20 on a 150" projection screen with an 18 foot throw distance. To show the differences between the two, I took some pictures.


The camera used is fairly cheap, so forgive me for the bad quality. The camera makes the picture appear more dark and blue than it actually is. It does not show a great amount of detail.


Click on a picture to enlarge.

*Epson 8350 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 
*Optoma HD20 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 

*Epson 8350 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 
*Optoma HD20 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 

*Epson 8350 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 
*Optoma HD20 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 

*Epson 8350 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 
*Optoma HD20 (projected onto a 150 inch 1.1 grain screen w/ default settings):*
 


More pictures: http://img192.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dscn1634g.jpg


----------



## MississippiMan

Well, give us "your" impressions.


----------



## Nshon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As I told it yesterday:
> 
> 
> Same high prices in here Europe, Hungary. We have to find out the way to get one!



Warranty be damned I'm ordering from eBay. $1,299 + $235 shipping is still way cheaper than the usd equivalent of 2,400 Epson is asking in Asia.


----------



## MajesticRus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/19314263
> 
> 
> 
> Same high prices in here Europe, Hungary. We have to find out the way to get one!



Well, i just want to make order 8350 from Ebay or online shop in USA, with delivery it was ~ 1500$, but one problem - warranty.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701* /forum/post/19314114
> 
> 
> Two questions.
> 
> 
> Does this projector handle motion well? I watch sports and play games and motion blur matters alot to me. Also, whats the lag like for gaming. 30ms? 40?
> 
> 
> I want to pull the trigger on the 8350 so any opinions would be appreciated.



Many posters in the "gaming lag thread" said that the 6100/8100 were very good for gaming (very little lag) since they had the same PixelWorks video processor. I doubt Epson changed it on this model. So this one should good for gaming too.


----------



## BBQ7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19314446
> 
> 
> Many posters in the "gaming lag thread" said that the 6100/8100 were very good for gaming (very little lag) since they had the same PixelWorks video processor. I doubt Epson changed it on this model. So this one should good for gaming too.



Would the Silicon Optix HQV Reon-VX video processor and PW390 scaler on the 8700 add or reduce more lag. Trying to see if the 8350 or the 8700 would be better for gaming.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajesticRus* /forum/post/19314426
> 
> 
> Well, i just want to make order 8350 from Ebay or online shop in USA, with delivery it was ~ 1500$, but one problem - warranty.



Yeah I have the same question!

whats happen with the warranty when the buyer is the outside the US.


----------



## detroit1

yeah I want to wait until Panasonic announces what they are coming out with

they are the Only brand that can come out with something that can equal or beat the 8350 at that price and now they know how cheap the 8350 is so they are probably adjusting their pricing

right now the 8350 is the best buy on the market ; you can't beat the performance and the low price; especially if you adjust the projector right; see projectorcentral review to see the adjustments

with this kind of performance and price the "high priced" projector market is about to sink; you can now buy very high performance at low prices and if you have a separate video processor like DVDO, lumagen,etc you an increase the performance even more

I am pretty sure the 8350 will undercut the more expensive epson projectors as well; there is a point of totally diminishing returns on this stuff


----------



## Joco1114

I think Epson has World Warranty. (for example 3 years in Europe and 2 years in the World or less)


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19314524
> 
> 
> Yeah I have the same question!
> 
> whats happen with the warranty when the buyer is the outside the US.



If I were you, i would call Epson and ask them. We can only speculate.


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19314605
> 
> 
> If I were you, i would call Epson and ask them. We can only speculate.



LOL, I asked Epson Hungary on Friday, they didnt hear about 8350 or TW3600. They know projectors announced before 1 or 2 yrs.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19313771
> 
> 
> Have you tried another HDMI cable?



Tried a different hdmi cable and received the same results. It's the projector for sure.


----------



## ramosma

Ordered one from Visual Apex with the sale price. Whoohoo can't wait!


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19314524
> 
> 
> Yeah I have the same question!
> 
> whats happen with the warranty when the buyer is the outside the US.



You will have to ship the projector back into the US for the warranty work. I am sure Epson will ask for shipping cost both ways since the US products are meant to stay in the US. ( I have never heard of a worldwide warranty on electronics. )


----------



## monakh

If you consider laptops electronics, both Dell and Lenovo have international warranties which work in most of the civilized world (and some places not so civilized). Tried and tested by yours truly. Asus laptops often, also, have a 2 year international warranty.


----------



## cdelena

I got mine on Friday and set it up shining on a 110" Carada from 19'3" using the Art Feierman settings in dynamic mode (need the brightness with the long throw).


This is my first projector but I think it is fabulous. We watched two movies and some demo material and cannot find anything we want to change.


I had intended to buy the LG but this one looked too good to pass on. Just as I suspected... a great bang for the buck.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/19314482
> 
> 
> Would the Silicon Optix HQV Reon-VX video processor and PW390 scaler on the 8700 add or reduce more lag. Trying to see if the 8350 or the 8700 would be better for gaming.



I remember when the Mitsubishi HC5500 was coming out...that also was a 3LCD PJ with the HQV Reon-VX processor. I asked a couple users about their gaming experiences and they said that it was good, nothing noticeable at all. So I guess the same could be said of the 8700 but this is only speculation. It seems to have the same video processor combo as the 8500 from last year, so yo may want to check the 8500 owners thread. I'm sure gaming lag had to be discussed there.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19315354
> 
> 
> I remember when the Mitsubishi HC5500 was coming out...that also was a 3LCD PJ with the HQV Reon-VX processor. I asked a couple users about their gaming experiences and they said that it was good, nothing noticeable at all. So I guess the same could be said of the 8700 but this is only speculation. It seems to have the same video processor combo as the 8500 from last year, so yo may want to check the 8500 owners thread. I'm sure gaming lag had to be discussed there.



I believe I read the 8500 had around 40-75ms (kind of big range) in the projector input lag thread. 40ms doesn't seem to bad and it seems likely that the 8350 should be better than the 8500/8700 in terms of input lag.


But I'd be more comfortable seeing the actual input lag test results, than just hearing their is "nothing noticeable". But I realize that this issue is becoming less of a factor in my decision to purchase this projector.


----------



## BBQ7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1* /forum/post/19314602
> 
> 
> you can now buy very high performance at low prices and if you have a separate video processor like DVDO, lumagen,etc you an increase the performance even more
> 
> I am pretty sure the 8350 will undercut the more expensive epson projectors as well; there is a point of totally diminishing returns on this stuff



Can you use an expensive outside video processor and then turn off the internal 8350 or would both processors work at the same time?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Both processors would be working at the same time. Howver u can try and shut down any features that work on the video image. Anything that's on can induce lag.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19314922
> 
> 
> You will have to ship the projector back into the US for the warranty work. I am sure Epson will ask for shipping cost both ways since the US products are meant to stay in the US. ( I have never heard of a worldwide warranty on electronics. )




Thanks! Thats not so bad! The most important thing is that they will cover the warranty if its necessary.


----------



## mj75

How for is throw distance for me to project onto a 106" screen? How much clearance from ceiling. The projector calculator doesn't have the 8350 on the list. Thank you.


----------



## cdelena

Do I need to do something to start the bulb timer? I know I have 4 or 5 hours so far but it still shows 0 hours.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cdelena* /forum/post/19316307
> 
> 
> Do I need to do something to start the bulb timer? I know I have 4 or 5 hours so far but it still shows 0 hours.



I believe it only starts showing after 10 hours.


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19315866
> 
> 
> Both processors would be working at the same time. Howver u can try and shut down any features that work on the video image. Anything that's on can induce lag.



Yep... scalers/processors inherently introduce input lag. Most gamers consider 15-20ms to be about the maximum for good gameplay, though it only becomes a real factor if you're more than a casual gamer, in which case I'd say up to 40ms may be acceptable to you.


----------



## AVRoberts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lavine* /forum/post/19310826
> 
> 
> Looks like Visual Apex has lowered the price of the Epson 8350 to $1199 w/ free shipping. Price is valid until Oct. 17th. Just ordered mine. Debated the Electronics Expo deal but the reports on Reseller Ratings were making them look very iffy.



Does anyone know if VisualApex offers price protection. I bought my 8350 before the sale price. I'll call tomorrow and ask for $100 back, but would like to know if anyone else has already tried it.


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19314725
> 
> 
> Tried a different hdmi cable and received the same results. It's the projector for sure.



Have you tried HDMI 1 & 2? Try both ports.

If you still get the same issue you should get a replacement.

Make sure you rule out everything else it could be first.

You never know.


----------



## eliwankenobi

Can any of the 8350 owners confirm that this porjector has good panel convergence??


This is the one issue that bothers me a little. First I was going more for the hc4000, but price and installation ease wise....I'm leaning more towards this one. I like that this unit is shparper than last year's model and that its very quiet. Also Its zoom range and lens shift would make it easier for me to install this in my small media room.


Thanks


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19317215
> 
> 
> Have you tried HDMI 1 & 2? Try both ports.
> 
> If you still get the same issue you should get a replacement.
> 
> Make sure you rule out everything else it could be first.
> 
> You never know.



I have tried both and it happens with both inputs. Not a big deal though. I am not about to trade in the first unit I have received from epson that didn't have a major picture flaw. I have returned 5 units so far, all of which had different problems. This 8350 is what they sent to replace my 8100 that had a red tinted corner, a hot spot, and terrible convergence. At least this 8350 does great during movies. It's only when I am using a blu-ray menu in 1080p that it has any problems.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19317622
> 
> 
> Can any of the 8350 owners confirm that this porjector has good panel convergence??
> 
> 
> This is the one issue that bothers me a little. First I was going more for the hc4000, but price and installation ease wise....I'm leaning more towards this one. I like that this unit is shparper than last year's model and that its very quiet. Also Its zoom range and lens shift would make it easier for me to install this in my small media room.
> 
> 
> Thanks



My 8350 is spot on. The 8100 that I had before had the worst LCD panel convergence I have ever seen.


----------



## mat82284




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVRoberts* /forum/post/19316885
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if VisualApex offers price protection. I bought my 8350 before the sale price. I'll call tomorrow and ask for $100 back, but would like to know if anyone else has already tried it.



NOPE, but you can return the unit and buy another unit if you have less than 4 hours on the bulb. If you have more, then you'd loose 15% which wouldn't be worth it.


Visual Apex Price Protection


"Sudden price drops are unforeseen and, in most cases, manufacturer driven. Due to this fact, we are unable to extend price protection to the products we sell. We hope that you feel secure in the knowledge that on the day you purchased your products from Visual Apex, you paid a competitive price from an authorized, five-star dealer who will stand by you and the products we sell."


----------



## Falcore1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/19313177
> 
> 
> "Unfortunately page 17 has every dimension except the footprint leg to leg."
> 
> 
> I just bought an 8350 that I will install at a second home that we rent out to vacationers. I measured the locations of the feet for a shelf I'm building, for which I'm turning plastic cups that will capture the three feet. This will allow the maid to lift the projector off the shelf and put it in locked storage for periods between guests, but assure the correct registration with the screen when she replaces it. The feet are 1.31" in diameter, and are cylinders with a small (~0.1" high) spherical dome on the bottom. The front two feet are 13.59" apart. The front feet are 2.3" behind the front center edge of the projector. The rear foot is 9.79" behind the front foot, and on the projector center line. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Kevin



Thank you Kevin-thats the info I needed.


----------



## jdonshula

Need some serious advice..... Need a fixed 110" screen for a bonus room with light to moderate ambient light for my new epson 8350.. Any great ideas? Im looking to spend less than $500.


Thanks


----------



## randytester

I'm in the same situation. I was thinking about purchasing some High Contrast Gray Screen material that advertises .8 gain with a 120 degree viewing angle from buildyourownprojectionscreens with the total cost of under $150.


----------



## j-bo

Yeah..there is a screen forum to post your question in. Should get lots of good info there.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...sprune=30&f=23 


Check out the DIY screen forum too.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

I have a Grandview 92" CineWhite and couldn't be happier! Just read the comparisons up against elite and Stewart.


http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ens_review.htm


----------



## lin000

my ceiling is white and wall is light yellow. The reflection from the wall are killing the black. Should I get a 1.1 grey or 1.8 grey if i want to get this fixed without painting the wall?


----------



## andrios

I'm in the same boat with so many screen choices.


Do you guys think the black diamond would be overkill for a $1300 projector? Haha it's double the price....but seems like it's all I really need to get a great picture with some ambient light.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19320057
> 
> 
> my ceiling is white and wall is light yellow. The reflection from the wall are killing the black. Should I get a 1.1 grey or 1.8 grey if i want to get this fixed without painting the wall?



No screen or the best fp will help unless the room is design for the best pic.Which means black ceiling'black screen wall'dark carpet'and dark wall colors.Plus dark carpet and furniture.I know this is not waht you want to hear.But their is a reason if you look at the HT construction thread that this rule is followed mostly.The gray screen will help some but the total of the room is just as important for the best pic.


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19320607
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat with so many screen choices.
> 
> 
> Do you guys think the black diamond would be overkill for a $1300 projector? Haha it's double the price....but seems like it's all I really need to get a great picture with some ambient light.




Check this out. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1282153 Its a great post on this subject.


mark


----------



## hayatiakbas

I recieved my projector 8350 and Denon avr 1911 receiver from Electronics-Expo today. They put the projector in a second box and nicely packed. I set them up and left for the work. I will watch some bluray tonight after I set the audio calibration etc to my denon. I will compare it to Epson 8100..let's see.


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19320907
> 
> 
> I recieved my projector 8350 and Denon avr 1911 receiver from Electronics-Expo today. They put the projector in a second box and nicely packed. I set them up and left for the work. I will watch some bluray tonight after I set the audio calibration etc to my denon. I will compare it to Epson 8100..let's see.



screen shots please


----------



## hayatiakbas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/19321155
> 
> 
> screen shots please



I will write my impressions and compare it to the 8100 I owned for 9 months. But screen shots of a screen is not something I even care to look at reviews. So I won't go through that trouble. I need to do the audio calibration and stuff. It will take my some time already.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hayatiakbas* /forum/post/19321315
> 
> 
> I will write my impressions and compare it to the 8100 I owned for 9 months. But screen shots of a screen is not something I even care to look at reviews. So I won't go through that trouble. I need to do the audio calibration and stuff. It will take my some time already.



Shame that....


Knowing how to take screenies that do in fact represent what your eyes see isn't all that hard, even with the most basic of Digi-cams. You simply have to know the tricks to make the camera do what needs to be done, judge the results and post only those you can vouch-safe for, and let'em fly home or hit a wall of criticism.


I do suppose all the rancor many offer up over screenies counts for something in your decision....but in actuality...and as someone who has been there, done that a few times in the past,







one cannot appreciate or understand how distressing it can be to take great paints to post only truly accurate depictions only to have them belittled...or called outright deceptive.. Once again...all that amount to being a shame, and shameful behavior by some.


The benefit to those seeking a visual reference, be they accurate or not to you, is something that is hard to overlook and/or not consider...if one even cares about providing such things to other members.


But a good descriptive review isn't to be slighted either so do whatever is best/most comfortable for you. Anytime one posts the values/settings he uses when Calibrating is a very helpful thing to contribute because it gives the opportunity for a comparative study between members seeking an accurate determination of what might/does work best for a given Screen surface.


----------



## asay82

all things being equal (same camera, same lighting and screen). i think screen shots would be a nice idea.


----------



## active_sport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randytester* /forum/post/19319463
> 
> 
> I'm in the same situation. I was thinking about purchasing some High Contrast Gray Screen material that advertises .8 gain with a 120 degree viewing angle from buildyourownprojectionscreens with the total cost of under $150.



I bought the same material last year and built my own 90" screen. It worked very well with my Optoma DLP projector. I just installed my new Epson 8350 and I am blown away by the picture quality. I would strongly suggest the High Contrast Material from buildyourownscreens. Also buy their border material!


----------



## active_sport

Here is a shot of my new 8350 installed. I just made the box so it will be painted to match in the next few days. Becasue I have such low ceilings and this projector is so BIG and WHITE, I felt it just looks better in a box then hanging from a mount. The Box is completly open at the top (past the ceiling joist) so it gets plenty of air flow. Since I have an open ceiling, air can be drawn in from the top. I also allowed an additional 3"-4" in the back of the box as well. Notice my Optoma EP761 in front. This Epson dwarfs the Optoma. Oh yeah, out of the box pic is Great. I can't wait until I actually tune it... I am waiting for a new HDMI cable. Right now using older HDMI to DVI with a DVI to HDMI Converter (my Optoma used DVI).


Sorry for the poor quality pic. I used my BB......


HT setup, black ceilings, walls are actually darker than they appear (in pic) done in a suede paint. Dark Grey Carpet and Black Leather furninture. Controlable Spot Lighting and projector mounted at 18' from screen projecting on a high contrast (.8 gain) 90" 16:9 Screen


----------



## derekvli

After waiting many years to upgrade my panny L300U from 2004, I just took the plunge and ordered from projector people. Hoping it will be here by the weekend (FL to MO)?


The 300u has almost 3000 hours on the original bulb and is mounted 16' back and now projects on a 10' wide wilsonart DIY screen. It actually will be missed....(between the time it takes to unhook the old and in with the new!).







, but the 8350 should fill its shoes nicely! RIP L300U.


----------



## vik_tx

I received mine today and hooked it up to a pioneer vsx 1120 receiver.. there was a lot of picture flickering on 1080p mode of the receiver.. i had to drop it down to 1080i to stop this flickering.. I thought this projector could easily do 1080p.. i am getting disappointed.. i will try playing with some settings on both the receiver and projector tomorrow..


----------



## AVRoberts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mat82284* /forum/post/19317777
> 
> 
> NOPE, but you can return the unit and buy another unit if you have less than 4 hours on the bulb. If you have more, then you'd loose 15% which wouldn't be worth it.
> 
> 
> Visual Apex Price Protection
> 
> 
> "Sudden price drops are unforeseen and, in most cases, manufacturer driven. Due to this fact, we are unable to extend price protection to the products we sell. We hope that you feel secure in the knowledge that on the day you purchased your products from Visual Apex, you paid a competitive price from an authorized, five-star dealer who will stand by you and the products we sell."



After reading this reply, I figured there wasn't much of a chance of getting my $100 back but I tried anyways. They stated pretty much the same thing. Apparently Epson dropped the price to them, and they are passing it along to the customers. On well, at $1299 it's still a great projector.


----------



## AVRoberts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19320057
> 
> 
> my ceiling is white and wall is light yellow. The reflection from the wall are killing the black. Should I get a 1.1 grey or 1.8 grey if i want to get this fixed without painting the wall?



I have light yellow walls as well. My wife won't let me paint them dark, so we came up with a compromise. We're hanging chocolate brown curtains on curtain tracks all around the room. When I want it dark for the projector, we'll close the curtains all the way around. The rest of the time, we'll have a bright family room.


As far as screen, I just went with the VApex 120". I'll experiment with grays at a later time. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to paint the VApex. If it would have come in a gray option, I would have gone with that up front.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19322341
> 
> 
> I received mine today and hooked it up to a pioneer vsx 1120 receiver.. there was a lot of picture flickering on 1080p mode of the receiver.. i had to drop it down to 1080i to stop this flickering.. I thought this projector could easily do 1080p.. i am getting disappointed.. i will try playing with some settings on both the receiver and projector tomorrow..



Do you get flickering during movies, or just in menus? Mine flickers all through 1080p blu-ray menus and even zooms way in sometimes. However, once the actual movie starts, the problem goes away. I posted this video about it on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnDOQWDdRbI 


I plan to keep this projector, unless the issue starts happening in movie.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVRoberts* /forum/post/19322593
> 
> 
> I have light yellow walls as well. My wife won't let me paint them dark, so we came up with a compromise. We're hanging chocolate brown curtains on curtain tracks all around the room. When I want it dark for the projector, we'll close the curtains all the way around. The rest of the time, we'll have a bright family room.
> 
> 
> As far as screen, I just went with the VApex 120". I'll experiment with grays at a later time. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to paint the VApex. If it would have come in a gray option, I would have gone with that up front.



Quite interestingly, I'm actually thinking about doing the same thing tonight.

The walls are very close to the screen (10 inch each). I'm thinking of adding two curtains on either side of the wall to do light control. How do you like the result?


How can I light control the ceiling if I don't want to paint it. The whole house (open floor plan) comes with the same flat white ceiling which i like. It'll be awkward if I just paint the living room section.


Any idea is appreciated.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/19321947
> 
> 
> I bought the same material last year and built my own 90" screen. It worked very well with my Optoma DLP projector. I just installed my new Epson 8350 and I am blown away by the picture quality. I would strongly suggest the High Contrast Material from buildyourownscreens. Also buy their border material!



what is this buildyourownscreens you are talking about>


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19322676
> 
> 
> what is this buildyourownscreens you are talking about>



I believe he was talking about buildyourownprojectionscreen.com


----------



## lin000

i already have an electric screen. Buying additional cloth won't fit in the housing.


----------



## seraphus

I've got a question on Epson's 2 year warranty. If I bought the projector second hand from Craigslist/eBay and was provided with the original proof of purchase/receipt, would that be all I needed to use the warranty?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19322029
> 
> 
> After waiting many years to upgrade my panny L300U from 2004, I just took the plunge and ordered from projector people. Hoping it will be here by the weekend (FL to MO)?



Probably not. If the price was the same, Visual apex should of got the call. They are just a couple states away from you while Fl is 7-8. Good luck though...



> Quote:
> The 300u has almost 3000 hours on the original bulb and is mounted 16' back and now projects on a 10' wide wilsonart DIY screen. It actually will be missed....(between the time it takes to unhook the old and in with the new!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but the 8350 should fill its shoes nicely! RIP L300U.



Bedroom bound! 70" on the Wall!


----------



## sajandrew

Sold my AE900, and my 8350 should be here tomorrow, from Projector People. Pretty excited to see the difference, after living with a dim AE900 for a while now.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19323081
> 
> 
> Probably not. If the price was the same, Visual apex should of got the call. They are just a couple states away from you while Fl is 7-8. Good luck though...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bedroom bound! 70" on the Wall!



My Mitsubishi HD1500 makes a nice looking 84" image on my bedroom wall.









However, it is too bad that my bedroom only has Dolby Prologic surround.


----------



## pbmax542

As far as my 1080p menu issue is concerned, I tried one more thing this morning. I hooked up my Epson 8100 (haven't returned it yet) and the flickering was gone. At this point I am pretty confident it's the 8350.


----------



## marshalls_acct

I am trying to decide between the 8350 for $1200 or a refurbished 8500UB for $1600. The latter is refurbished by Epson and carries the same warranty as new.


I am aware of the differences in the two models and would get some mileage out of the extra brightness and deeper blacks of the 8500. I hear that Epson generally has great customer service but am generally hesitant to buy "refurbished" and was wondering if anybody has had any experience with refurbished projectors or has any other advice on the subject.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marshalls_acct* /forum/post/19323546
> 
> 
> I am trying to decide between the 8350 for $1200 or a refurbished 8500UB for $1600. The latter is refurbished by Epson and carries the same warranty as new.
> 
> 
> I am aware of the differences in the two models and would get some mileage out of the extra brightness and deeper blacks of the 8500. I hear that Epson generally has great customer service but am generally hesitant to buy "refurbished" and was wondering if anybody has had any experience with refurbished projectors or has any other advice on the subject.



It has the same warranty as a new projector, so nothing to worry about.


----------



## AVRoberts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19322670
> 
> 
> Quite interestingly, I'm actually thinking about doing the same thing tonight.
> 
> The walls are very close to the screen (10 inch each). I'm thinking of adding two curtains on either side of the wall to do light control. How do you like the result?
> 
> 
> How can I light control the ceiling if I don't want to paint it. The whole house (open floor plan) comes with the same flat white ceiling which i like. It'll be awkward if I just paint the living room section.
> 
> 
> Any idea is appreciated.



I won't know about the results for at least a month....the curtains are on order and I still need to order the curtain tracks. JCPenney appears to be the best place to find good curtains at a decent price. I'll get the tracks from an online source.


I can't speak about the ceiling as I have a vaulted ceiling. It's about 10 ft high on the right side of the screen and at least 18 ft on the left side. I'm hopeful that once I get the side curtains installed, I won't notice the ceiling reflections at all. I guess you could stretch blackout cloth across the ceiling that is closest to the screen.


Even without the side curtains, I find the movie experience to be acceptable, just looking to make things as close to perfect as possible given the fact that my room is not technically a "dedicated theatre"......YET!!! I'm using a tactic against my wife that I've learned from the left.....incrementalism!


----------



## bucko72

well, just so everyone knows, I ordered from visual apex at the 1299 price and saw it went on sale. I called them up yesterday about it and today got an email saying I was getting the 100 back. This could be because I have not received my projector yet so there is some hope. All it takes is a couple minutes on the phone so you might as well give it a shot.


----------



## Joco1114

I ordered my 8350 (Epon EH-TW3600 here) changing my old Pana PT-AX100!!! It will arrive in a month.









The price was very "friendly", it costs only $1900.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bucko72* /forum/post/19323664
> 
> 
> well, just so everyone knows, I ordered from visual apex at the 1299 price and saw it went on sale. I called them up yesterday about it and today got an email saying I was getting the 100 back. This could be because I have not received my projector yet so there is some hope. All it takes is a couple minutes on the phone so you might as well give it a shot.



anybody ordered from pp called them to find out? They marked down the price as well.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19324167
> 
> 
> anybody ordered from pp called them to find out? They marked down the price as well.



I ordered from them yesterday and they gave me the 1199 price.


----------



## SFNSXguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19322655
> 
> 
> Do you get flickering during movies, or just in menus? Mine flickers all through 1080p blu-ray menus and even zooms way in sometimes. However, once the actual movie starts, the problem goes away. I posted this video about it on youtube.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnDOQWDdRbI
> 
> 
> I plan to keep this projector, unless the issue starts happening in movie.



Could the flickering be because the projector doesn't support 1080P/24?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SFNSXguy* /forum/post/19324632
> 
> 
> Could the flickering be because the projector doesn't support 1080P/24?



Why do you think the 8350 doesn't support 1080P/24 when the 8100 does.


----------



## marshalls_acct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dysfunction26* /forum/post/19323555
> 
> 
> It has the same warranty as a new projector, so nothing to worry about.



That's kindof what I was thinking and others have posted positive things about Epson's warranty and customer service, so I finally pulled the trigger and bought the Refurbished 8500UB.


----------



## marshalls_acct

If anybody else is interested, the refurbished (by Epson) 8500UB is being sold by Dell for $1599 w/ free 3-5 day shipping, but they do charge tax. Here is the link:
Epson Powerlite 8500 UB Home Cinema Projector - Refurbished by Epson


----------



## Joco1114

8350 is supported 2:2 Pull Down (1080p/24fps).


----------



## SFNSXguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/19325192
> 
> 
> 8350 is supported 2:2 Pull Down (1080p/24fps).



The Projector People & Projector Central specs only states 1080P/60. I can find no spec sheet that shows otherwise.


----------



## active_sport

Direct from page 68 of the Epson 8350 manual.

HDMI:

Signal 1080p 24/30/50/60 1920x1080


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SFNSXguy* /forum/post/19325425
> 
> 
> The Projector People & Projector Central specs only states 1080P/60. I can find no spec sheet that shows otherwise.



The 8350 supports 2:2 and 2:3 pulldown.

1080p/24 is displayed at 48 fps.


----------



## Dogllama

Got my 8350 in yesterday and I was blown away. MUCH better than my AE900 and MUCH brighter. I feel like I am looking at a plasma and even with a good deal of ambient light, the picture is very watchable.


Having trouble selecting Epson Super White from the menu though, it is grayed out for me. Is this because I am using HDMI? Or am I missing a step to turn it on?


----------



## SilverJS

Re : Refurbs...


FWIW, I have been using an Infocus SP4805 for the last 4 years. Paid 750$ for it back then on eBay as a refurb, never had a single problem with it. The lamp is just now starting to go (my friend, who also bought one - he's the one that convinced me to go with it back 4 years ago - is still stunned I managed to eke four years out of that lamp).


The warranty should alleviate all your worries. Heck - Visual Apex had a deal on a refurb 6500UB that I actually would have bought OVER the 8350 if VA shipped to Canada. It's older, but still technically a higher spec. Love refurb in general, go for it I say.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19325708
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 in yesterday and I was blown away. MUCH better than my AE900 and MUCH brighter. I feel like I am looking at a plasma and even with a good deal of ambient light, the picture is very watchable.
> 
> 
> Having trouble selecting Epson Super White from the menu though, it is grayed out for me. Is this because I am using HDMI? Or am I missing a step to turn it on?



You are correct.



> Quote:
> This setting can be used only when a *composite video, S-Video, or component video
> 
> signal is being input* and the Color Mode is set to THX (Home Cinema 8700 UB), Natural (Home
> 
> Cinema 8350), Theatre (Home Cinema 8700 UB), Cinema (Home Cinema 8350), Theatre
> 
> Black 1 (Home Cinema 8700 UB), or Theatre Black 2 (Home Cinema 8700 UB)


----------



## vik_tx

do you have the flashing/flickering problem on the blue ray disk menus?




> The 8350 supports 2:2 and 2:3 pulldown.
> 
> 1080p/24 is displayed at 48 fps.
> 
> [\\quote]


----------



## eddieb187




vik_tx said:


> do you have the flashing/flickering problem on the blue ray disk menus?
> 
> 
> No, I have not had any flashing with Blu-Ray menus.
> 
> I have the Oppo BDP83 set to force 1080p/24.(24 fps set to ON)
> 
> 8350 info screen shows 1080p/24 is displaying.
> 
> I bring up Blu-Ray menu and no issues.
> 
> I have watched many Blu-Rays since getting the 8350.
> 
> I pre-ordered it. I've been using it since Sept. 30th.
> 
> What do you have your Oppo 24 fps setting to? Auto or on?


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dogllama* /forum/post/19325708
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 in yesterday and I was blown away. MUCH better than my AE900 and MUCH brighter. I feel like I am looking at a plasma and even with a good deal of ambient light, the picture is very watchable.
> 
> 
> Having trouble selecting Epson Super White from the menu though, it is grayed out for me. Is this because I am using HDMI? Or am I missing a step to turn it on?



Do you have the Color Mode set to "x.v.Color".

When using x.v.Color, Super White will be grayed out.

A lot of options are grayed out with that mode.

I use Cinema and it is available to turn on and off.


----------



## pbmax542

I am using cinema mode too with an oppo BDP-83. I get the same flickering issue with 1080p24 and 1080p60. I have tried with HDMI set to expanded and normal and with super white on and off. I have also tried setting deep color to 10 bit, 12 bit, and turning it off all together. The only way I have found to get rid of the flickering issue, is to turn off 1080p.

I sent Epson an email about it and linked them to my video. Hope to hear back from them tomorrow.


----------



## eliwankenobi

oh oh...Seems like we are starting to see problems coming up with these Epsons...hopefully this will be only one!


----------



## mellamojosh

I ordered the 8350 from Proj People this afternoon. My rep said it should only take two days to arrive with free, ground shipping (FL to TN). I figured I should go ahead and take advantage of the $1199/free shipping price. Gotta jump in at some point.


My rep also said the Panny rep told her they wouldn't be coming out with any new models until next year.


----------



## retroeric

I just received this projector today and fired it up. When watching a Blu-ray, is there any reason to have the mode set to anything other than Natural? I tried Cinema, Dynamic, etc but Natural seemed far superior to any of them. Unless I am missing something.


By the way this was with all the lights off.


----------



## aztech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mellamojosh* /forum/post/19327197
> 
> 
> My rep also said the Panny rep told her they wouldn't be coming out with any new models until next year.



isn't that what people were saying last year before the 4000 came out? can we please get some more input on this rumor? i've been waiting for the new panasonic like a lot of people. so if this is true.... son of a b___ch....


----------



## eliwankenobi

Yeah...next year could be early 2011..maybe february or march. Maybe they release it in CES 2011. But this might take us off-topic


EDIT: Panasonic did the same thing with the ae4000


----------



## czubakow

Has anyone had the chance to run an input lag test? I'd like to have a good idea of gaming performance before I pull the trigger.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *czubakow* /forum/post/19327461
> 
> 
> Has anyone had the chance to run an input lag test? I'd like to have a good idea of gaming performance before I pull the trigger.




If you don't want any lag try these guys out they have a great product!


http://www.goarmy.com/#/?channel=car...quee=education


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19327581
> 
> 
> If you don't want any lag try these guys out they have a great product!
> 
> 
> http://www.goarmy.com/#/?channel=car...quee=education



I don't get it...


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19327603
> 
> 
> I don't get it...



http://lmgtfy.com/?q=There+is+no+lag+in+RL


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19327607
> 
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=There+is+no+lag+in+RL



Images on displayed on a screen (projector, HDTV, CRT) are not real life/real time. This applies to videogames even more than watching some live action drama or sports game. You cannot yell at the people in a TV show to warn them that someone is about to shoot them. You can't boo at athletes for doing a terrible job and have them hear you. You can't reach out and touch things in a TV. If you really think the things/images in your little(or big) box are real life(think of the definition), I suggest you seek help.


It's a proven fact that signals to digital displays from game systems(as well as other sources) from controllers do not get sent instantaneously. Oh, and sure you can shoot a gun in real life, but can you shoot flaming energy blasts from hands or flaming uppercuts in real life?


Input lag is a valid concern for quite a few consumers and it would be nice to get some concrete numbers. That being said, I'm sure the 8350 performs as well as the 8100 and better than the 8500 in input lag. And seeing as the term "lag"(albeit not a technical term) exists in real life and has a meaning that apply to certain things, I believe there is input lag in real life.


----------



## ttflyer95

Ok, let me start with background. I'm upgrading to the 8350 from an Epson HC400 that I've had for about three years and been very happy with. It's got about 2000 hrs on it, so I used that as an excuse to get the 8350.


The good:

My first impression was - WOW! It was a major upgrade in picture quality. I was not expecting to see such a noticeable improvement over the HC400. I was really happy with that projector, but this one is much better.


The bad:

After spending some time with the 8350, I began to notice a picture anomaly in white or bright scenes. There are areas of nearly vertical lines over about 1/3 of the screen. Of course, now I see it all the time and have become convinced there is something wrong with the projector. It is present on all inputs (hdmi1, 2, and component). It is present on all sources (blu-ray, dvd, direcTV, and HTPC). In short, it's there and I can't get rid of it. It does not roll (like a 60hz screen roll). I think it's in the panel alignment or something like that, but I thought somebody from the forum here may be able to give me some insight. I've included a screen shot so that somebody may recognize the problem...


If it wasn't for this, the projector would be literally perfect. I'm afraid I'm going to have put Epson support to the test and see If I can get a better unit (unless somebody has a better idea).


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19327676
> 
> 
> Images on displayed on a screen (projector, HDTV, CRT) are not real life/real time. This applies to videogames even more than watching some live action drama or sports game. You cannot yell at the people in a TV show to warn them that someone is about to shoot them. You can't boo at athletes for doing a terrible job and have them hear you. You can't reach out and touch things in a TV. If you really think the things/images in your little(or big) box are real life(think of the definition), I suggest you seek help.
> 
> 
> It's a proven fact that signals to digital displays from game systems(as well as other sources) from controllers do not get sent instantaneously. Oh, and sure you can shoot a gun in real life, but can you shoot flaming energy blasts from hands or flaming uppercuts in real life?



Wow! I never knew that! Thank you!


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aztech* /forum/post/19327365
> 
> 
> isn't that what people were saying last year before the 4000 came out? can we please get some more input on this rumor? i've been waiting for the new panasonic like a lot of people. so if this is true.... son of a b___ch....



You are correct, sir. Panny came out with new models mid-Oct last year.


They still could release new models next week, or first thing in Jan for that matter. They're somewhat unpredictable. I've been waiting to replace my Panny 900 since...this summer. I had just decided to wait for the new Panasonic models. Well, I'm tired of waiting. The AX200 is now discontinued on Proj People so I kind of assume they'll replace it with another entry level PJ pretty soon...but, then again...you never know. Get with the program Panasonic.


So...I figured I'd give Epson a try this go 'round. Epson bulbs are rated (grain of salt, I'm sure) for twice the life of Panasonic bulbs and, evidently, Epson has pretty strong customer service and, at least, twice the warranty period. Here's to hoping that the 8350 is everything I'm hoping it will be. I'll post a response once I get it up and running. It should be interesting because during the day I have a good bit of ambient light.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttflyer95* /forum/post/19327744
> 
> 
> Ok, let me start with background. I'm upgrading to the 8350 from an Epson HC400 that I've had for about three years and been very happy with. It's got about 2000 hrs on it, so I used that as an excuse to get the 8350.
> 
> 
> The good:
> 
> My first impression was - WOW! It was a major upgrade in picture quality. I was not expecting to see such a noticeable improvement over the HC400. I was really happy with that projector, but this one is much better.
> 
> 
> The bad:
> 
> After spending some time with the 8350, I began to notice a picture anomaly in white or bright scenes. There are areas of nearly vertical lines over about 1/3 of the screen. Of course, now I see it all the time and have become convinced there is something wrong with the projector. It is present on all inputs (hdmi1, 2, and component). It is present on all sources (blu-ray, dvd, direcTV, and HTPC). In short, it's there and I can't get rid of it. It does not roll (like a 60hz screen roll). I think it's in the panel alignment or something like that, but I thought somebody from the forum here may be able to give me some insight. I've included a screen shot so that somebody may recognize the problem...
> 
> 
> If it wasn't for this, the projector would be literally perfect. I'm afraid I'm going to have put Epson support to the test and see If I can get a better unit (unless somebody has a better idea).



I see what you're talking about. Thanks so much for posting a pic. I'd give Epson a call asap and see how they respond. I anticipate they'll likely swap you out.


Let us know how Epson cust service responds.


----------



## mellamojosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marshalls_acct* /forum/post/19324832
> 
> 
> If anybody else is interested, the refurbished (by Epson) 8500UB is being sold by Dell for $1599 w/ free 3-5 day shipping, but they do charge tax. Here is the link:
> Epson Powerlite 8500 UB Home Cinema Projector - Refurbished by Epson



FYI, Dell only collects sales tax if the product is being shipped to a state in which Dell has a physical presence (e.g. TX, TN, etc.). If you order from the business side, though, they may collect the tax for your "convenience". Since you're supposed to remit sales tax from online purchases to the appropriate tax authority in your state Dell does this for its business customers as a courtesy (businesses tend to follow tax law closer than individuals since they are more closely monitored).


EDIT: I see that it is only available through the Small Business division so Dell will most likely collect the tax for you, unless it is being shipped to a state like OR that doesn't have sales tax. Since that is the case, you only save about $50-$100 (depending on the tax structure in your area) since a brand new 8500 can be had for $1799 at VA or PP.


----------



## leov36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *retroeric* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received this projector today and fired it up. When watching a Blu-ray, is there any reason to have the mode set to anything other than Natural? I tried Cinema, Dynamic, etc but Natural seemed far superior to any of them. Unless I am missing something.
> 
> 
> By the way this was with all the lights off.



It all depends on your unique setup, screen size. Throw distance. Color of your walls. Light control. Etc . For me, cinema looks best


----------



## Adult Beverage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttflyer95* /forum/post/19327744
> 
> 
> Ok, let me start with background. I'm upgrading to the 8350 from an Epson HC400 that I've had for about three years and been very happy with. It's got about 2000 hrs on it, so I used that as an excuse to get the 8350.
> 
> 
> The good:
> 
> My first impression was - WOW! It was a major upgrade in picture quality. I was not expecting to see such a noticeable improvement over the HC400. I was really happy with that projector, but this one is much better.
> 
> 
> The bad:
> 
> After spending some time with the 8350, I began to notice a picture anomaly in white or bright scenes. There are areas of nearly vertical lines over about 1/3 of the screen. Of course, now I see it all the time and have become convinced there is something wrong with the projector. It is present on all inputs (hdmi1, 2, and component). It is present on all sources (blu-ray, dvd, direcTV, and HTPC). In short, it's there and I can't get rid of it. It does not roll (like a 60hz screen roll). I think it's in the panel alignment or something like that, but I thought somebody from the forum here may be able to give me some insight. I've included a screen shot so that somebody may recognize the problem...
> 
> 
> If it wasn't for this, the projector would be literally perfect. I'm afraid I'm going to have put Epson support to the test and see If I can get a better unit (unless somebody has a better idea).



You seem to have eliminated most of the potential causes. Have you tried different cables and inputs (HDMI, component, composite, etc.)? Are you sure it isn't the screen and never noticed it with the old PJ? Try moving the 8350 left or right to see if it moves with the image.


----------



## buddahead

I ordered the 8350 yesterday from PP.Sold the 6100 which was a great fp.Hopefully the 8350 will give me that it was worth it feeling.If not might try the new Sony or JVC.Will post my impressions after using it this weekin.


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttflyer95* /forum/post/19327744
> 
> 
> Ok, let me start with background. I'm upgrading to the 8350 from an Epson HC400 that I've had for about three years and been very happy with. It's got about 2000 hrs on it, so I used that as an excuse to get the 8350.
> 
> 
> The good:
> 
> My first impression was - WOW! It was a major upgrade in picture quality. I was not expecting to see such a noticeable improvement over the HC400. I was really happy with that projector, but this one is much better.
> 
> 
> The bad:
> 
> After spending some time with the 8350, I began to notice a picture anomaly in white or bright scenes. There are areas of nearly vertical lines over about 1/3 of the screen. Of course, now I see it all the time and have become convinced there is something wrong with the projector. It is present on all inputs (hdmi1, 2, and component). It is present on all sources (blu-ray, dvd, direcTV, and HTPC). In short, it's there and I can't get rid of it. It does not roll (like a 60hz screen roll). I think it's in the panel alignment or something like that, but I thought somebody from the forum here may be able to give me some insight. I've included a screen shot so that somebody may recognize the problem...
> 
> 
> If it wasn't for this, the projector would be literally perfect. I'm afraid I'm going to have put Epson support to the test and see If I can get a better unit (unless somebody has a better idea).



It looks like banding. I'm still using a Sanyo Z2, which is known for it, so I don't notice it anymore but it usually becomes visible on gray scenes such as in the fog of "Master and Commander" and other movies. I believe that it is a part of the LCD technology and it is more visible on some projectors than on others.


----------



## Andy238

Projector Central has the 8350 in their pj calculator now (8700 too):

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm


----------



## vik_tx

pls post back what you hear from them...I am considering returning my 8350 for an exchange/refund if the flicker problem does not go away



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19326842
> 
> 
> I am using cinema mode too with an oppo BDP-83. I get the same flickering issue with 1080p24 and 1080p60. I have tried with HDMI set to expanded and normal and with super white on and off. I have also tried setting deep color to 10 bit, 12 bit, and turning it off all together. The only way I have found to get rid of the flickering issue, is to turn off 1080p.
> 
> I sent Epson an email about it and linked them to my video. Hope to hear back from them tomorrow.


----------



## ttflyer95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttflyer95* /forum/post/19327744
> 
> 
> If it wasn't for this, the projector would be literally perfect. I'm afraid I'm going to have put Epson support to the test and see If I can get a better unit (unless somebody has a better idea).



Update: I talked to Epson this morning. Unbelievably good customer service!! They said the banding was not normal and that they would send me out a replacement - brand new - and that I would have it by tomorrow!! That is far and away the best customer service response I have ever had with any electronics. I'll keep everybody updated on how the replacement works out...


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttflyer95* /forum/post/19329097
> 
> 
> Update: I talked to Epson this morning. Unbelievably good customer service!! They said the banding was not normal and that they would send me out a replacement - brand new - and that I would have it by tomorrow!! That is far and away the best customer service response I have ever had with any electronics. I'll keep everybody updated on how the replacement works out...



They're sending a replacement while you still have the old one?


----------



## gameboy9

Been watching this thread VERY carefully. Really pleased with the results of the projector and it's customer service... therefore, even without a potential bombshell that Panasonic might issue, I bought the 8350 from PP at their $1199/free shipping sales price... I'll be getting it Monday.


It's going to replace the 720p Mitsubishi HD1000U... I'm hoping for a bigtime difference!


----------



## rajveen

I'm very close to purchasing the 8350. I have a question regarding the lens shifting capabilities before i purchase it. Does lens shifting reduce the brightness of the image? I'm more concerned about the vertical lens shifting. If i max out vertical lens shifting will the picture quality and brightness be affected?


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajveen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm very close to purchasing the 8350. I have a question regarding the lens shifting capabilities before i purchase it. Does lens shifting reduce the brightness of the image? I'm more concerned about the vertical lens shifting. If i max out vertical lens shifting will the picture quality and brightness be affected?



I've personally not noticed issues with lens shifting and brightness on this model. I've not tried it at max levels yet


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gameboy9* /forum/post/19329317
> 
> 
> Been watching this thread VERY carefully. Really pleased with the results of the projector and it's customer service... therefore, even without a potential bombshell that Panasonic might issue, I bought the 8350 from PP at their $1199/free shipping sales price... I'll be getting it Monday.
> 
> 
> It's going to replace the 720p Mitsubishi HD1000U... I'm hoping for a bigtime difference!



You won't regret it


I was showing some pictures of my kids swim meet to my family the other day, taken on my 5D mk ii. They looked beautiful, bright, and amazing on 100" screen


----------



## rajveen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19330717
> 
> 
> I've personally not noticed issues with lens shifting and brightness on this model. I've not tried it at max levels yet



how much horizontal and vertical shifting are you using?


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajveen* /forum/post/19330925
> 
> 
> how much horizontal and vertical shifting are you using?



How would I know, its a dial? Does it tell me in the settings menu?


----------



## rajveen

i don't know if it tells you but just wanted to know how much below the lens (or above the lens) is your picture as well as how off center is the projecter (horizontally) from the screen?


i believe the max vertical/horizontal shift is something like 1/2 off the total height/width of your screen.


----------



## SilverJS

Anybody know what the actual video upscaling chip is in the 8350? I'm looking at upgrading my receiver sometime soon and looking at some of the higher-end Onkyo and Integra models. Some have the HQV Reon VX chip, which from what I hear is quite good. Wondering if the PJ's built-in one is any good - which means I could save a bit of dough and just do video pass-through. =)


Thanks!


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajveen* /forum/post/19330961
> 
> 
> i don't know if it tells you but just wanted to know how much below the lens (or above the lens) is your picture as well as how off center is the projecter (horizontally) from the screen?
> 
> 
> i believe the max vertical/horizontal shift is something like 1/2 off the total height/width of your screen.



Ah OK. I think I moved about a foot top to bottom, and probably 6-8 inches left to right.


----------



## rajveen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19331025
> 
> 
> Ah OK. I think I moved about a foot top to bottom, and probably 6-8 inches left to right.



And you're still pretty happy with the image? Thats good. That's about how much lens shifting i would need.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/19312518
> 
> 
> I must be the only one that gets a monoprice mount....I have had had excellent results with the $13 monoprice projector mount....
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> It is 100% adjustable any direction and you can quickly remove the projector if needed in a minute or two.



I am looking at this mount as well.. there are no specs on the sit, but from the looks of it ; it appears as though this may be tad small for the projector. Can you confirm if this mount fits the 8350? Did you attach all the four arms/screws to the proj? many thanks!


----------



## JayMan007

Anyone getting the 1080p/24 flicker issue with a PS3?

Thanks.


----------



## cubbiesbob

been watching this thread ever since my Optoma HD70 chewed up its 3rd consecutive color wheel. I went ahead and bought the Epson 8350, despite some concerns a few people have mentioned here about flicker. Hopefully it doesnt do that.


My one other concern is- the 8350 is about 2X the size and about 3X the weight of my old Optoma- has the sheer massiveness of this projector been an issue for anyone? I plan to ceiling mount this- my old one was just mounted using some drywall screws- its not in a place where I can get to a stud. Am I gonna have $1200 come crashing down on me? we'll soon see...


----------



## krshlstn

I just pulled the trigger and bought this Projector. I won't get it until Monday, but can someone please help me out on settings for the 3 different modes/scenarios I will be watching it in. I need settings for the Projector and also the PS3 for Blurays. I have a 120" Screen with dark room with 2 windows that have curtains on them.


Type 1: will be gaming on xbox 360, would like it bright and as little lag as possible, should I be turning everything off like the iris and super whites? What mode would be the best (Dynamic/Natural)? Also I have a seperate HDMI cord straight from my xbox to the projector into input 2. For this I don't care about picture quality nearly as much.


Type 2: Watching sports (football sunday afternoon) or shows like The Office. Will have some ambiant light from the curtains (Way more than I hoped for when I bought them). Dynamic mode is what I am guessing here? Iris on/off?


Type 3: Blu-rays on PS3, this will always be at night and very much light controlled. I want best picture here. Guessing Cinema mode with iris on. How about super white options or doesn't that even apply here? And what settings do I need to have on my PS3? 24fps I know, but how do I get 12bit vs 10bit out of my ps3? I looked last night and saw some super white thing on my PS3, does that need to be on/off or doesn't it matter? Any other settings I need off or on for my PS3? Do I want to go into the menu on my projector and change settings from factory defaults? I don't plan on having it professionaly calibrated. Like some say put the gamma up 2 notches, or color temp up? Any info would be helpful.


Last question, can I save these 3 settings in the projector somewhere? Or can I at least save 2 settings since I am using 2 inputs? One for HDMI input 1 and another for HDMI input 2?


FYI: This is my first projector and I can hardly work at day or sleep at night thinking about how AWESOME it's going to be when it gets here. I AM JACKED!


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at this mount as well.. there are no specs on the sit, but from the looks of it ; it appears as though this may be tad small for the projector. Can you confirm if this mount fits the 8350? Did you attach all the four arms/screws to the proj? many thanks!



I have this on the 8350. It only holds on by three of the little arms, not all five. It appears stable still and balanced however. You might to look at a bigger and wider mount if you want it attached by all five holes.


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19331309
> 
> 
> I just pulled the trigger and bought this Projector. I won't get it until Monday, but can someone please help me out on settings for the 3 different modes/scenarios I will be watching it in. I need settings for the Projector and also the PS3 for Blurays. I have a 120" Screen with dark room with 2 windows that have curtains on them.
> 
> 
> Type 1: will be gaming on xbox 360, would like it bright and as little lag as possible, should I be turning everything off like the iris and super whites? What mode would be the best (Dynamic/Natural)? Also I have a seperate HDMI cord straight from my xbox to the projector into input 2. For this I don't care about picture quality nearly as much.
> 
> 
> Type 2: Watching sports (football sunday afternoon) or shows like The Office. Will have some ambiant light from the curtains (Way more than I hoped for when I bought them). Dynamic mode is what I am guessing here? Iris on/off?
> 
> 
> Type 3: Blu-rays on PS3, this will always be at night and very much light controlled. I want best picture here. Guessing Cinema mode with iris on. How about super white options or doesn't that even apply here? And what settings do I need to have on my PS3? 24fps I know, but how do I get 12bit vs 10bit out of my ps3? I looked last night and saw some super white thing on my PS3, does that need to be on/off or doesn't it matter? Any other settings I need off or on for my PS3? Do I want to go into the menu on my projector and change settings from factory defaults? I don't plan on having it professionaly calibrated. Like some say put the gamma up 2 notches, or color temp up? Any info would be helpful.
> 
> 
> Last question, can I save these 3 settings in the projector somewhere? Or can I at least save 2 settings since I am using 2 inputs? One for HDMI input 1 and another for HDMI input 2?
> 
> 
> FYI: This is my first projector and I can hardly work at day or sleep at night thinking about how AWESOME it's going to be when it gets here. I AM JACKED!



Congratulations on the purchase. Have you read the review at projectorreviews.com? It may help answer a couple of those questions.
http://projectorreviews.com/epson/ho...8350/index.php


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19328843
> 
> 
> pls post back what you hear from them...I am considering returning my 8350 for an exchange/refund if the flicker problem does not go away



They sent me an email today with a telephone number to their exchange department (I already had this number, but I am tired of calling it). Since I don't really want to exchange it, I replied to the email asking is they had any suggestions for how I could fix this issue without exchanging the projector. I also called Epson's corporate office and left a message with the customer service rep that sent me the 8350 as a replacement for my defective 8100. I will let you know what she has to say when she calls me back.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19331309
> 
> 
> I just pulled the trigger and bought this Projector. I won't get it until Monday, but can someone please help me out on settings for the 3 different modes/scenarios I will be watching it in. I need settings for the Projector and also the PS3 for Blurays. I have a 120" Screen with dark room with 2 windows that have curtains on them.
> 
> 
> Type 1: will be gaming on xbox 360, would like it bright and as little lag as possible, should I be turning everything off like the iris and super whites? What mode would be the best (Dynamic/Natural)? Also I have a seperate HDMI cord straight from my xbox to the projector into input 2. For this I don't care about picture quality nearly as much.
> 
> 
> Type 2: Watching sports (football sunday afternoon) or shows like The Office. Will have some ambiant light from the curtains (Way more than I hoped for when I bought them). Dynamic mode is what I am guessing here? Iris on/off?
> 
> 
> Type 3: Blu-rays on PS3, this will always be at night and very much light controlled. I want best picture here. Guessing Cinema mode with iris on. How about super white options or doesn't that even apply here? And what settings do I need to have on my PS3? 24fps I know, but how do I get 12bit vs 10bit out of my ps3? I looked last night and saw some super white thing on my PS3, does that need to be on/off or doesn't it matter? Any other settings I need off or on for my PS3? Do I want to go into the menu on my projector and change settings from factory defaults? I don't plan on having it professionaly calibrated. Like some say put the gamma up 2 notches, or color temp up? Any info would be helpful.
> 
> 
> Last question, can I save these 3 settings in the projector somewhere? Or can I at least save 2 settings since I am using 2 inputs? One for HDMI input 1 and another for HDMI input 2?
> 
> 
> FYI: This is my first projector and I can hardly work at day or sleep at night thinking about how AWESOME it's going to be when it gets here. I AM JACKED!



Not all Blu-ray players can do 1080p24 or 10 and 12 bit color. With my oppo BDP-83, these settings are found in the video section of the menu. As for super white on cinema mode, I have found that it is best to have super white off(I know some people disagree). I found through calibration that super white clips blacks, which has a negative affect on shadow detail. Having super white on also prevents you from being able to set HDMI range from normal to expanded. Being able to set HDMI range to expanded seems to be more valuable to me than super white.


----------



## ttflyer95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19329173
> 
> 
> They're sending a replacement while you still have the old one?



Yes. That is their normal policy (and one of the main reasons I chose Epson). They send you the replacement, overnight delivery, and when it gets there, you put the defective unit in the same packaging and send it back to Epson. All shipping fees are paid by Epson. They do put a hold on a credit card and if they don't receive the defective unit back within 7 days, they charge your credit card for the value of the replacement projector. It's far and away the best customer service policy you will find on a projector.


----------



## crelox

This is my first projector so i dont really have any experience or know exactly what to look for but I just wanted to hopefully put some peoples fears to rest about the projector or at least common users.


Like everyone has said - picture was great out of the box , just connected the receiver ps3 and xbox and had a fantastic image - in addition I dont even have a screen this was projected on a white wall, even with the lights on the image was good and very bright.


My main concern was any lagging issues because most of my use for this is going to be for gaming and I think I can safely say there should be no worry. I didnt do any formal testing but played games that I have previously played on my LCD and some new games and could not detect any noticeable lag even in cinematic or gameplay sequences with extremely fast motion. I even let my brother play so I could really try and detect any motion blur or lag but in a few FPS games like reach, monday night combat, and some action adventure like enslaved, gothica iv, castle crashers I could not see any problems. Colors were vibrant and looked as good or better than my LCD and 3 times the size.


Anyways like I said just a newbie that has been checking this thread ever since it was started but for the casual user/untrained eye such as myself - i could not find any problems and was happy with the purchase


Btw - i have not seen any banding with really bright white images coming off ps3 or 360 or any other problems


----------



## ravichander

For people who do not mount it to the ceiling - does a dust cover make any difference for storing it and pulling it out before using it.


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubbiesbob* /forum/post/19331287
> 
> 
> been watching this thread ever since my Optoma HD70 chewed up its 3rd consecutive color wheel. I went ahead and bought the Epson 8350, despite some concerns a few people have mentioned here about flicker. Hopefully it doesnt do that.
> 
> 
> My one other concern is- the 8350 is about 2X the size and about 3X the weight of my old Optoma- has the sheer massiveness of this projector been an issue for anyone? I plan to ceiling mount this- my old one was just mounted using some drywall screws- its not in a place where I can get to a stud. Am I gonna have $1200 come crashing down on me? we'll soon see...



You may want to consider getting a piece of wood to span the distance between two studs and screwing the wood into the studs. After that you can mount the pj to the wood. You can always put trim around the wood and paint it to match the ceiling.


----------



## sajandrew

Got my 8350 last night, didn't have much time to mess with it, aside from hanging it and making sure it worked, but here are some initial impressions...


First, the thing is HUGE. Compared to my AE900, the 8350 is a monster, probably 2-3x the size and weight. I am glad I spent the extra money on the solid Chief mount, and I am glad I had reinforced the ceiling in my theater room where I hung the mount. It's up though, and it's solid, so no big deal.


I didn't have time to tweak the image at all last night. I did get the image flipped around, and roughly got it centered on my screen. My room is totally light controlled, and mostly painted flat black. I am throwing a 106" image onto a Dalite HCCV screen, from about 16'. My initial impressions are that it is much brighter, and sharper than my AE900. I am eager to get home today to get it all set up correctly.


I did put in a Bluray (PS3) to make sure my menus were cool, and they were. No weird lines when my menu is displayed at 1080p. I am going through a Pioneer Elite receiver for everything.


I looked at Art's review, and tried to make some sense of the settings he was using, but it's not totally clear to me yet. I will look tonight to see if I can see what he was adjusting, and where. Or, I'll just leave it alone or adjust it to my eye.


Andy


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajandrew* /forum/post/19334419
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 last night, didn't have much time to mess with it, aside from hanging it and making sure it worked, but here are some initial impressions...
> 
> 
> I did put in a Bluray (PS3) to make sure my menus were cool, and they were. No weird lines when my menu is displayed at 1080p. I am going through a Pioneer Elite receiver for everything.
> 
> 
> Andy



Let us know if you have the flicker issue with PS3 on 1080p/24.

-Thanks,


----------



## FrankM100

crelox and sajandrew - Thanks for the quick reviews. I'm still trying to decide whether to keep mine(it's sitting on my table in the box still) or return for the JVC HD250 which is over twice as expensive. Every little bit of info helps.


----------



## dhahlen

There are 3 left on ebay for $1224 shipped, new in box, sealed. From california (have to pay sales tax in CA). Paypal or bank wire only.


Not a bad price


----------



## jparker36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FrankM100* /forum/post/19334802
> 
> 
> crelox and sajandrew - Thanks for the quick reviews. I'm still trying to decide whether to keep mine(it's sitting on my table in the box still) or return for the JVC HD250 which is over twice as expensive. Every little bit of info helps.



I'm in the same-ish boat, trying to decide between the two. My though is go w/ the 8350, save some money now. In two-three more years, we'll be able to get a nice proj w/ 3d that'll blow the jvc away. That will be the time to upgrade, whereas spending the money on the jvc now will feel like a waste if 3d takes off and we want to jump on board.


----------



## detroit1

I don't think it will be worth it at all to pay double for that JVC compared to the 8350

the JVC will also not have as many lumens for sports, games, etc and after you ajust the controls on the 8350 the way projector central did; there is no way to justify the cost of the JVC. I know JVC is the ultimate blacks but all their projectors are dimmer and not very good for sports either. Art at projector reviews swaps his JVC for one of his epsons when he wants to watch sports; this is a big weakness of the JVC's; they are dark room projectors only; the 8350 has a variety of conditions that you can use it in and get great picture


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1* /forum/post/19335015
> 
> 
> I don't think it will be worth it at all to pay double for that JVC compared to the 8350
> 
> the JVC will also not have as many lumens for sports, games, etc and after you ajust the controls on the 8350 the way projector central did; there is no way to justify the cost of the JVC. I know JVC is the ultimate blacks but all their projectors are dimmer and not very good for sports either. Art at projector reviews swaps his JVC for one of his epsons when he wants to watch sports; this is a big weakness of the JVC's; they are dark room projectors only; the 8350 has a variety of conditions that you can use it in and get great picture



All great points detroit.My logic on getting the 8350 is that is a great fp according to many who I trust.And with 3d fp just starting to come out I know I will want one when the 2nd or 3rd generation come out and most of the bugs or worked out and the price starts to settel.No way would I invest in a 3d fp right now.Hell their is nothing to wach anyway except a few things so why dive in now or spend huge amount on a 2d fp/Just my opion.


----------



## sajandrew

I don't know anything about the JVC, but I do know I don't care about 3D at all, and wouldn't pay more for it, especially at this point in time. For me, it was either buy a new bulb for the AE900, or get a new, budget projector. I was able to sell my AE900 for $380, and when you figure a good bulb would be about $300 more....seemed like a no brainer to spend a little more and get a brand new unit with specs that are far superior. I've not had much time with it yet, but from what I have seen thus far, it's worlds better than my AE900.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19334687
> 
> 
> Let us know if you have the flicker issue with PS3 on 1080p/24.
> 
> -Thanks,



I just popped a Bluray in and verified it was displayed at 1080p, but I did not try 1080p/24, I will try to do that this evening....if I can figure out how...


----------



## ajb5865

Thanks for initial 8350 thoughts sajandrew. I'm in same boat (currently with a panny 900 and looking to go to the 8350). very interested in your thoughts after palying aroudn and tweaking this eve. BTW, where did you sell the 900? Mine has 1100 hrs is working wonderfully.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajb5865* /forum/post/19335486
> 
> 
> Thanks for initial 8350 thoughts sajandrew. I'm in same boat (currently with a panny 900 and looking to go to the 8350). very interested in your thoughts after palying aroudn and tweaking this eve. BTW, where did you sell the 900? Mine has 1100 hrs is working wonderfully.



Yeah, I'll post some further impressions after I get everything sorted out tonight. I need to hook up the Xbox 360 to try some games, and also try some more blurays.


I sold my AE900 on ebay. I was glad to get what I got out of it.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhahlen* /forum/post/19334955
> 
> 
> There are 3 left on ebay for $1224 shipped, new in box, sealed. From california (have to pay sales tax in CA). Paypal or bank wire only.
> 
> 
> Not a bad price



Thats not a bad price, but still high.......


----------



## reye

Can someone please recommend a ceiling mount for the 8350?

Thanks.


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19337457
> 
> 
> Can someone please recommend a ceiling mount for the 8350?
> 
> Thanks.



I have the Chief RPA series mount, with a ceiling mount plate and 8" extension pipe. It's not the cheapest mount, but it's really heavy duty, and it worked with my AE900 and now the 8350, two very different projectors in terms of size.


I had a chance to get the projector set up this evening. I haven't tweaked any picture settings yet, but I've got the image aligned and sized now.


My Xbox looks awesome. Games that were dark before are really bright now, and I didn't notice any lag playing Modern Warfare, although I only played for a few minutes.


I played some more Blurays on my PS3, and I tried the 1080p/24 setting. My menus were fine on this setting, no fuzziness or lines like others have reported. I am thinking it has to do with the DVD player. Seems like the projector would do it on the movie as well as the menus, if that's where the problem was. Just my guess though.


I forgot to mention, I am running it in Eco mode, and Natural for games, Cinema for Blurays.


I do not regret the 8350 purchase at all, a world of difference from my AE900.


Andy


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19328843
> 
> 
> pls post back what you hear from them...I am considering returning my 8350 for an exchange/refund if the flicker problem does not go away



They are forwarding this issue to their QA Engineering group and wanted to know what model of blu-ray player I have.


If you let me know what model of player you have, I will forward it to them as well.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

Found out why some people are getting banding issues.


If you turn Noise Reduction on 1, 2, or 3 you get banding, if off(which thats where it should be) all banding goes away


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19337457
> 
> 
> Can someone please recommend a ceiling mount for the 8350?
> 
> Thanks.



Peerless precision gear FTW


----------



## ttflyer95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19338111
> 
> 
> Found out why some people are getting banding issues.
> 
> 
> If you turn Noise Reduction on 1, 2, or 3 you get banding, if off(which thats where it should be) all banding goes away



Sorry, but this is an incorrect statement (wishful thinking maybe?). I have the banding problem on my original projector and the Noise Reduction setting has no effect on it. It really shouldn't, since banding is a defect in the LCD panel... I'm still waiting on the replacement to see how it does....


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

Ok well I got nasty banding when I turned on noise reduction so 1 more issue to add to the pot.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19337810
> 
> 
> They are forwarding this issue to their QA Engineering group and wanted to know what model of blu-ray player I have.
> 
> 
> If you let me know what model of player you have, I will forward it to them as well.



Thanks for the reply. I am using a Pioneer VSX 1120 audio/video receiver with this. The blu ray player is LG BD370 connected to the receiver..


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19337457
> 
> 
> Can someone please recommend a ceiling mount for the 8350?
> 
> Thanks.


 http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-3N1-...7116146&sr=1-4


----------



## asay82

as there is no HC4000 to compare yet, would the 8350 beat Mits hc3800?


----------



## Joco1114

I have this one to mount on my wall (not ceiling). The spider-part can be to screw-up upside down, I dont need to mount my proj upside down.
http://www.digitalcinema.com.au/Voge...ll-support.htm


----------



## bk

Anyone know if the 8350 is going to be offered through any of the big box stores such as Best Buy or HHGregg? They both carried the 8100, but neither list the 8350 at this point.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the 8350 is going to be offered through any of the big box stores such as Best Buy or HHGregg? They both carried the 8100, but neither list the 8350 at this point.



Why do you want to buy from big box, do you get a discount? Most online deals can also be found tax free with free shipping. So you're talking about a difference of about a hundred bucks, and that assumes they match the online price


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joco1114* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this one to mount on my wall (not ceiling). The spider-part can be to screw-up upside down, I dont need to mount my proj upside down.
> http://www.digitalcinema.com.au/Voge...ll-support.htm



That says supports up to 10kg. The 8350 is 22lbs which is 10 kg. Isn't that a little close for the weight limit? I know it's not an exact science, but this baby is a big mutha!


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19340277
> 
> 
> Why do you want to buy from big box, do you get a discount? Most online deals can also be found tax free with free shipping. So you're talking about a difference of about a hundred bucks, and that assumes they match the online price



3 words - Same As Cash (assuming they're also reasonably price competitive).


----------



## j-bo

Ready to buy..who has the best policies? Bought from PP before, don't like to have to have a signature though...anyway..looks like all same price.


1. Cleveland Plasma

2. VisualApex. not sure of the 5/10/15 return policy

3. PP

4. Electronics expo

5. other?


----------



## Browninggold




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19340277
> 
> 
> Why do you want to buy from big box, do you get a discount? Most online deals can also be found tax free with free shipping. So you're talking about a difference of about a hundred bucks, and that assumes they match the online price



Most of the time places like BB have their 3 year no interest payment on their credit card purchases....sometimes thats' not a bad deal. Plus if your a reward zone program purchaser you will recieve money back via coupons toward purchases. Over the years I probably have received 1500.00 or more via the rewards zone program.


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/19340705
> 
> 
> Most of the time places like BB have their 3 year no interest payment on their credit card purchases....sometimes thats' not a bad deal. Plus if your a reward zone program purchaser you will recieve money back via coupons toward purchases. Over the years I probably have received 1500.00 or more via the rewards zone program.



Plus ease of exchange if there's out-of-the-box issues.


----------



## Browninggold

Alright everyone I am ready to pull the trigger on this setup, if anyone sees' a problem would like the advice/input/suggestions. My room is roughly 12'x22'x8' not a dedicated Ht room but a LR. Have blackout shades, plan on painting walls later a dark burgandy color and cream ceiling. I will include picture of front setup how it is now. Screen will drop down in front of existing equip. Proj. will be ceiling mounted.

1

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 Projector




ELITE TE120HW2-A1080

1

Elite TE120HW2-A1080 CineTension2 Acoustic Series - 120" Diag. (58.8"x104.5") - Tensioned Electric Screen - 16:9 HDTV Format - 1.0 Gain - A1080 Material with Black Case - Includes IR & RF Remote Controls and 3-Way Wall Switch


----------



## derekvli

Waiting on delivery today of HDMI cables from Monorpice and 8350 from PP. Its 1 PM, and every time I hear a low rumble im running to look out the front window. Get here already!


----------



## coachagee

Hello all,


I upgraded from the HD65 to this projector and ll I can say is WOW!


Huge difference in PQ,brightness etc. etc.


I have had no problems so far with banding or BD menus. I agree that this thing is a beast but no buyers remorse here. If you are coming from a 720p as I was I say go for it.


Everything has looked awesome out of the box from BDs to HDTV and gaming. I look forward to tweeking the image to have it look even better.


----------



## ZenithPete




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19340504
> 
> 
> Ready to buy..who has the best policies? Bought from PP before, don't like to have to have a signature though...anyway..looks like all same price.
> 
> 
> 1. Cleveland Plasma
> 
> 2. VisualApex. not sure of the 5/10/15 return policy
> 
> 3. PP
> 
> 4. Electronics expo
> 
> 5. other?



They may not have the best price, but Amazon has 1 in stock, it's provided by another seller, but fulfilled by amazon, unlike we have seen until now, can't beat amazon's return policy. If it's not fulfilled by amazon though, it's the 3rd party's policies.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bk* /forum/post/19339405
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the 8350 is going to be offered through any of the big box stores such as Best Buy or HHGregg? They both carried the 8100, but neither list the 8350 at this point.



I was in an hhgregg a few weeks back, looking to see if they had the 8100 on sale. -They did, but not as good a price they had a month or two back with their 20% off everything sale.-- Anyway, they had an 8350 "shell" on the shelf with some laminated spec sheets. They did not have a price on it at the time. Could have been because it was before the 8350 was released. I haven't been back, but plan to soon to get a price... they are planning another "20% Off" Sale soon.


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19340347
> 
> 
> That says supports up to 10kg. The 8350 is 22lbs which is 10 kg. Isn't that a little close for the weight limit? I know it's not an exact science, but this baby is a big mutha!



As I know, it is about 7.3 kg. See this page:
http://www.epson-europe.com/content/...-EN.ilocal.htm 


(EH-TW3600 = 8350 in Europe)


----------



## ramosma

Can't wait










This is replacing an older non HDMI projector (Sanyo PLV 60) that only had component video cables running from the receiver to the projector.


I have an older receiver (non-HDMI) and the only piece of equipment that currently supports HDMI is my Xbox 360 slim. I don't have blue-ray (dvd had been good enough up to this point) but will consider one if its worth it based on feedback.


I have been debating running HDMI to the projector (about a 40 foot run) and buying a matrix converter from monoprice (component to HDMI). Will I truly see much of a difference between the 2 (HDMI and component)?


Thanks in advance


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19341319
> 
> 
> I was in an hhgregg a few weeks back, looking to see if they had the 8100 on sale. -They did, but not as good a price they had a month or two back with their 20% off everything sale.-- Anyway, they had an 8350 "shell" on the shelf with some laminated spec sheets. They did not have a price on it at the time. Could have been because it was before the 8350 was released. I haven't been back, but plan to soon to get a price... they are planning another "20% Off" Sale soon.



It's this weekend here in Atlanta along with 24 months interest free financing. That's what motivated me to ask if anyone knew when/if they'd be offering it.


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/19340836
> 
> 
> Alright everyone I am ready to pull the trigger on this setup, if anyone sees' a problem would like the advice/input/suggestions. My room is roughly 12'x22'x8' not a dedicated Ht room but a LR. Have blackout shades, plan on painting walls later a dark burgandy color and cream ceiling. I will include picture of front setup how it is now. Screen will drop down in front of existing equip. Proj. will be ceiling mounted.
> 
> 1
> 
> Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 Projector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ELITE TE120HW2-A1080
> 
> 1
> 
> Elite TE120HW2-A1080 CineTension2 Acoustic Series - 120" Diag. (58.8"x104.5") - Tensioned Electric Screen - 16:9 HDTV Format - 1.0 Gain - A1080 Material with Black Case - Includes IR & RF Remote Controls and 3-Way Wall Switch



Acoustically transparent screen?


----------



## Browninggold

yes^


----------



## mafaka

I got my 8350 today and man o man its AWESOME! Ive never seen colors look this vibrant on a projector but then again I've never experienced anything like 50000:1 contrast ratio.


I have it mounted temporarily on the ceiling in the theater room that I'm building downstairs to test out the lens shift and its incredible. Yes it is a HUGE machine but with lens shift I will be able to mount it about 4 inches below the ceiling so it wont be too much of an obstacle.


I'm looking at about a 144" image and have not done anything to calibrate yet at it looks FANTASTIC










I couldn't be happier with the purchase. One thing I will mention though is because I live in Canada and ordered from the States, i had to pay 85$ for brokerage fees and another 160+ in taxes so the price came to about the same maybe 30$ more than I would have paid if I wanted to get one from Canada.


In Jan or so when my theater room is 100% complete I will definitely post pictures of the setup if anyone is still interested by then lol


----------



## jpolachak

I think all of us that plan on purchasing this PJ would appreciate more pictures. I personally like the to see how people tackle room layout for their PJ.


----------



## derekvli

My 8350 came in this afternoon and I was able to run new HDMI wires and swap the old L300u (540i max resolution) fairly quickly. I do not have a blu ray player yet but had an old HD-DVD player in closest (ya, lost that bet) to see some high def in action. To be honest, I wasn't wow'd but it looked pretty darn impressive. Played about 30 minutes of Happy Feet and really enjoyed the picture but it was missing something. Then switched to Cinema mode and noticed a sizeble improvement to me... the wow factor was almost there! Made a few more adjustments that were mentioned in Art's review and am now completely satisfied with the purchase!


I then noticed my HD DVD player only did 1080i, wasn't even seeing 1080p image yet. =) With a 139" diag, I'm assuming there will be a decent difference between the two!


Oh, and dynamic mode completely lit up the room. Still need to hook up the OTA box to the projector, but can't wait for some football on this screen. I might be able to get some pictures, but have to get kids to sleep. The pics will of course only be 1080i as well.


----------



## Browninggold

Thanks derekvli for sharing your first impression of the 8350....yeah if you can post some pics.


----------



## G342

No answer for the input lag questions...

So I just bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on it! I'm excited like a kid on Christmas







I'll post some numbers up when I receive it next week *hopefully*.


----------



## buddahead

My 8350 came yesterday from PP.Got time to set it up and used Arts settings on my Carada 110 screen with BD and HD-DVD players.I had the Epson 6100 and 8100 and panny ae3000 and ax200 100 900.Played a few of my favorite demos movies 5th element 'Avatar'ect.Have to say I was quite impressed.Colors were just great.Really the first fp I have had where the flesh tones were perfect.I do agree that sharpness has been increased some .My wife mention that right off the bat,She said it look sharper than any of our other fp's.Blacks were very good.And I have seen some very expensive fp's and I have to say at this price I really can't believe how they can do it.We watch POTC Black Pearl BD for are first movie.The best I have seen it.The dark scenes had plenty of depth to get that allmost 3d feel.And others have mention the colors are just excellent.This level of pic at this price was unheard of a few years back.Also convergence looks great and the iris and fan are dead silent.Also no flickering at all as someone posted'They must have a wiring or player problem or something.Will have time today to mess with the settings and see what happens.Highly recommened.BOB


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ramosma* /forum/post/19341521
> 
> 
> Can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is replacing an older non HDMI projector (Sanyo PLV 60) that only had component video cables running from the receiver to the projector.
> 
> 
> I have an older receiver (non-HDMI) and the only piece of equipment that currently supports HDMI is my Xbox 360 slim. I don't have blue-ray (dvd had been good enough up to this point) but will consider one if its worth it based on feedback.
> 
> 
> I have been debating running HDMI to the projector (about a 40 foot run) and buying a matrix converter from monoprice (component to HDMI). Will I truly see much of a difference between the 2 (HDMI and component)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



First off congrats on getting a great fp.And yes.Front Projection loves every ounce of extra resolution.When you blow a pic up to a 110in screen or bigger a BD player makes quite a difference.And to pass 1080p from your BD to your FP HDMI is a must.You can get a BD player for a $100 now and if you go to all the trouble to get a FP and screen don't go cheap on the player.BOB


----------



## usskaufman3

I just bought my 8350 from HH Gregg. I paid $1000.00 plus tax 7%. I showed them the package price on Visual Apex online and told them I would buy the projector from them if they made me a good deal.


----------



## Chris350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mafaka* /forum/post/19341979
> 
> 
> I got my 8350 today and man o man its AWESOME! Ive never seen colors look this vibrant on a projector but then again I've never experienced anything like 50000:1 contrast ratio.
> 
> 
> I have it mounted temporarily on the ceiling in the theater room that I'm building downstairs to test out the lens shift and its incredible. Yes it is a HUGE machine but with lens shift I will be able to mount it about 4 inches below the ceiling so it wont be too much of an obstacle.
> 
> 
> I'm looking at about a 144" image and have not done anything to calibrate yet at it looks FANTASTIC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't be happier with the purchase. One thing I will mention though is because I live in Canada and ordered from the States, i had to pay 85$ for brokerage fees and another 160+ in taxes so the price came to about the same maybe 30$ more than I would have paid if I wanted to get one from Canada.
> 
> 
> In Jan or so when my theater room is 100% complete I will definitely post pictures of the setup if anyone is still interested by then lol



I am also in Canada, where did you buy from? Price? I have been trying to find a decent price in Canada but it looks like I might go with the states. Where were you looking at getting it in Canada?


----------



## titch--




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris350* /forum/post/19344448
> 
> 
> I am also in Canada, where did you buy from? Price? I have been trying to find a decent price in Canada but it looks like I might go with the states. Where were you looking at getting it in Canada?



http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1281363


----------



## Chris350

thanks titch... should have looked myself


----------



## hp1223

I will buy from Projector People any time. They refund me $100 difference on my 8350. Thanks to Kirk


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

What are the pros and cons of mounting this PJ at the minimum throw distance which is 10ft throwing to a 92" screen?


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hp1223* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will buy from Projector People any time. They refund me $100 difference on my 8350. Thanks to Kirk



Wow u got refunded? My salesmen said sorry but he wasn't expecting a decrease in price. Is Kirk your salesmen?? My salesmen was Michael Norton


Thanks


----------



## Joey!

Hi


I tried searching the thread, but I couldn't find the answer. I'm wondering what settings/values you are all using? I have tried finding optimal settings listed, but to no avail, and wondered what you guys found best?


Thanks


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joey!* /forum/post/19345740
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I tried searching the thread, but I couldn't find the answer. I'm wondering what settings/values you are all using? I have tried finding optimal settings listed, but to no avail, and wondered what you guys found best?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think a lot of people are trying the settings Art used in his review here http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## Ahamay17

Any 8350 owners who are avid sports fans that can comment on the sharpness of this unit during high speed sports viewing? Motion blur on LCDs in the past was a deal breaker for me and I understand the issue has been addressed with a lot of success. I'd like to hear real world, real people opinions....


Ray


----------



## giacoman

Just received 8350 projector. Trying to setup universal remote and I am looking for discrete codes for power on/ power off. Did a google search and couldn't find anything. Does anybody know? Thanks.


----------



## active_sport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ahamay17* /forum/post/19345898
> 
> 
> Any 8350 owners who are avid sports fans that can comment on the sharpness of this unit during high speed sports viewing? Motion blur on LCDs in the past was a deal breaker for me and I understand the issue has been addressed with a lot of success. I'd like to hear real world, real people opinions....
> 
> 
> Ray



I have no complaints so far. I watched the Iowa v Uof M game today, outside of Michigan's Defense looking terrible..... THe picture was great. I am currently watch the Nascar race on my 8350 and again picture looks great. I don't notice and "motion blur". I have also played a few games on the Xbox and was very pleased with its capabilities during gaming.


----------



## heyyall




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19345083
> 
> 
> What are the pros and cons of mounting this PJ at the minimum throw distance which is 10ft throwing to a 92" screen?



I mounted my projector near the minimum for ~100" screen due to the sizing of the HDMI cable for my particular room. If I had it to do again, I would have pushed the projector back a foot or more for these reasons: 1) in its current location is sits nearly directly overhead and you can hear it work (iris and fan); 2) my screen really can't go any larger--even to get into the 104-106" range might not work; 3) what if I change projectors.


So if you are going through the exercise of mounting, I would give yourself a little more room "just in case".


----------



## 96redformula

I got mine in today and am incredibly happy with it so far. It seems to be on another level than the Optoma HD20 I had for a couple days or so. The adjustments for the lens are so nice too.


----------



## CMRA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ramosma* /forum/post/19341521
> 
> 
> Can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is replacing an older non HDMI projector (Sanyo PLV 60) that only had component video cables running from the receiver to the projector.
> 
> 
> I have an older receiver (non-HDMI) and the only piece of equipment that currently supports HDMI is my Xbox 360 slim. I don't have blue-ray (dvd had been good enough up to this point) but will consider one if its worth it based on feedback.
> 
> 
> I have been debating running HDMI to the projector (about a 40 foot run) and buying a matrix converter from monoprice (component to HDMI). Will I truly see much of a difference between the 2 (HDMI and component)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Yes, you should. Once I went HDMI, I never went back. Then again, that's been my experience with my equipment. Your results may vary.

It's always best to try both ways and SEE which works out best for you.

Note: 40 feet is quite a run.


----------



## eliwankenobi

Could somebody try who owns an 8350 try and tell me if u notice any difference in sharpness or uniformity with the pj at full zoom?


My viewing room is very small and I would need full zoom to get a decent size.


Thnx


----------



## mj75

Received my 8350 from Visualapex with the 106" screen package. This is my first PJ and I could not wait to get this thing up and running. The PJ box looked beat up from the outside but everything was perfect inside. Took me a while to get the fixed frame up, and tougher to get the mount and studs lined up.

Once I got the screen and projector up, I ran the 35 ' HDMI 1.4 included in the package from my avr Onkyo 507. (I have to use the visualapex cable because of the distance.To my dismay there was no picture (no signal message from the projector). I tried to run the same hdmi 1.4 to my plasma and no signal also.

Do I need to upgrade firmware of the pj or my blu ray/avr? Thank you guys.


----------



## cmunro

The Sanyo PLV-60 has HDMI output, what are you talking about?


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mj75* /forum/post/19347405
> 
> 
> Received my 8350 from Visualapex with the 106" screen package. This is my first PJ and I could not wait to get this thing up and running. The PJ box looked beat up from the outside but everything was perfect inside. Took me a while to get the fixed frame up, and tougher to get the mount and studs lined up.
> 
> Once I got the screen and projector up, I ran the 35 ' HDMI 1.4 included in the package from my avr Onkyo 507. (I have to use the visualapex cable because of the distance.To my dismay there was no picture (no signal message from the projector). I tried to run the same hdmi 1.4 to my plasma and no signal also.
> 
> Do I need to upgrade firmware of the pj or my blu ray/avr? Thank you guys.



If you didn't get a signal on your plasma or your projector, you might have a bad cable. Do you have a different cable you could test between the pj and receiver? You could move the pj closer to the receiver if you only have a short cable and then at least you would be able to verify that it was or wasn't the cable.


----------



## Browninggold




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/19346451
> 
> 
> I have no complaints so far. I watched the Iowa v Uof M game today, outside of Michigan's Defense looking terrible..... THe picture was great. I am currently watch the Nascar race on my 8350 and again picture looks great. I don't notice and "motion blur". I have also played a few games on the Xbox and was very pleased with its capabilities during gaming.



Thanks for the input I was wondering the same thing for sports/gaming....I was @ the U of M/MSU game last week, I should of sold the tickets. Probably would of payed for the 8350


----------



## Joey!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19345771
> 
> 
> I think a lot of people are trying the settings Art used in his review here http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php



Thanks







I didn't think of checking there, even though I had read the review!


----------



## SilverJS

Anybody know if the 8350 will accept 1080p over component? My receiver (Yamaha RX-V757) doesn't have HDMI, but does have component and I'd like to be able to use the video switching.


(Plan B is to bypass the receiver - I'll only really have two sources, PS3 and HTPC, and I would connect them both via HDMI direct to the PJ.)


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

1080p is not supported over component, It's almost 2011.....buy yourself an HDMI switching reciever.


Or should I say HDCP is not supported via Component, Xbox360 can pass 1080p over component only in gaming.


----------



## SilverJS

Hmmm...based on my research, the cable is physically able to carry the signal. It just depends on whether or not your display unit will accept a 1080p signal over the component cable.


In any case, I will eventually upgrade my receiver, yes. But one thing at a time. =) Thing is, a receiver upgrade for me is expensive because, since I have external amps for my subs, mains and center, I need a receiver that has pre-outs for all of those, and they're usually only the high-end ones.


EDIT : Misread your reply. You're right, it's HDCP that's not carried by component. But all I'm interested in is the video feed anyways, I'd go optical for audio for both sources anyways.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SilverJS* /forum/post/19349091
> 
> 
> Anybody know if the 8350 will accept 1080p over component? My receiver (Yamaha RX-V757) doesn't have HDMI, but does have component and I'd like to be able to use the video switching.
> 
> 
> (Plan B is to bypass the receiver - I'll only really have two sources, PS3 and HTPC, and I would connect them both via HDMI direct to the PJ.)



To my understanding, page 68 of the user's manual says 1080p is accepted through component. (a shame that it also states it isn't for RGB)


----------



## SilverJS

Ah, there we go, thank you.


Why didn't I think of going through the manual...? Thanks for the help.


----------



## thespacecowboy

I took a shot of Avatar on XBMC using each of the 5 settings to help comparisons with the color settings. In order, it should be:


Dynamic

Living Room

Natural

Cinema

xv color


----------



## Vao

give some more please... in the same way


----------



## mat82284

Could anyone on here be so kind as to remove there lamp and take photos of it? Also look for any information on where its manufactured, like japan or china. Alot of the Epson owners are trying to find out if epson has addressed the new lamp issues and started fixing them. It would suck if even the newer 8350's and 8700's still have lamp issues. Only time will tell, at least this way we can see if the replacement lamps being sent are improved.


----------



## gameboy9

I don't think I've heard anything about the lag on gaming issue... so I'm going to take a look at this when I get my 8350 today.


As a "control", I checked my Mitsubishi HD1000U for lag using Rock Band 2's calibration feature. I ran the trial four times and got numbers of 56, 57, 51, and 58 ms, for an average of 55.5 ms. This setup goes through a receiver through a 6 foot HDMI run first, then about a 15-20 foot HDMI run to the projector. I actually think there's hardly any lag when I play Rock Band... or Forza Motorsport... or Lumines Supernova... or anything really. Interestingly, I have about a 140ms lag with regards to my 42" 120hz LG 42LD520 TV with a 6 foot HDMI run and it goes through nothing!


----------



## Acid Snow

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting my first LCD pj, and the 8350 looks like a potential option; because I see all of the AVS forum in here...


But I have some questions: I'm going to be using this 100% with Xbox and PC usage, how effective has it been for both (I realize Xbox games are normally 720p). Is there a noticeable screen-door effect, or blur? I'm *rather picky* when it comes to good pq. I want the best I can get, for a PJ under $1400. *Should I seriously consider this 8350, or stick to an LCD TV for my PC/gaming use?* I don't know much about PJs, that's why I'm here.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acid Snow* /forum/post/19351633
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at getting my first LCD pj, and the 8350 looks like a potential option; because I see all of the AVS forum in here...
> 
> 
> But I have some questions: I'm going to be using this 100% with Xbox and PC usage, how effective has it been for both (I realize Xbox games are normally 720p). Is there a noticeable screen-door effect, or blur? I'm *rather picky* when it comes to good pq. I want the best I can get, for a PJ under $1400. *Should I seriously consider this 8350, or stick to an LCD TV for my PC/gaming use?* I don't know much about PJs, that's why I'm here.



I don't have an Xbox 360,, but I have hooked my gaming pc up. BF BC2 looks awesome with all video settings maxxed out, but it's really hard to play on a 120"screen from 13' back. I can't see any screen door, but I also can't see everything that I need to in order to be successful. The image is just too big. I do much better on my 25" LCD monitor.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19351719
> 
> 
> I don't have an Xbox 360,, but I have hooked my gaming pc up. BF BC2 looks awesome with all video settings maxxed out, but it's really hard to play on a 120"screen from 13' back. I can't see any screen door, but I also can't see everything that I need to in order to be successful. The image is just too big. I do much better on my 25" LCD monitor.



That seems completely weird because EVERY other Gamer I've ever talked to has related how having a big Screen with a excellent, clear, contrasty image only gives them decided advantage over the competition. Especially at 1080p resolution!


It must be the Screen itself that is at issue, your peripheral vision isn't up to snuff, or maybe your simply Far Sighted. Shame that...because immersion into a Video Game is something that is unique to the genre. Especially "Shoot-em Ups".


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19351749
> 
> 
> That seems completely weird because EVERY other Gamer I've ever talked to has related how having a big Screen with a excellent, clear, contrasty image only gives them decided advantage over the competition. Especially at 1080p resolution!
> 
> 
> It must be the Screen itself that is at issue, your peripheral vision isn't up to snuff, or maybe your simply Far Sighted. Shame that...because immersion into a Video Game is something that is unique to the genre. Especially "Shoot-em Ups".



Well if you hit that spot where you really need to move your eye's left and right to focus on that side of the screen it can start to be a bit of an issue...I'm at 120" from about 12' back and it's pushing it! Only for online FPS type games though where a fraction of a second is often the difference of who walks away from that encounter.


I don't care though, it's too much awesome all around when the screen is huge. Single player games like Fallout God of War etc don't suffer at all.


----------



## giacoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acid Snow* /forum/post/19351633
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at getting my first LCD pj, and the 8350 looks like a potential option; because I see all of the AVS forum in here...
> 
> 
> But I have some questions: I'm going to be using this 100% with Xbox and PC usage, how effective has it been for both (I realize Xbox games are normally 720p). Is there a noticeable screen-door effect, or blur? I'm *rather picky* when it comes to good pq. I want the best I can get, for a PJ under $1400. *Should I seriously consider this 8350, or stick to an LCD TV for my PC/gaming use?* I don't know much about PJs, that's why I'm here.



I just upgraded from 720p projector. Played Halo Reach on 8350 in 1080p and it looks great. Every bit as good compared to my LCD HDTV.


----------



## Latenter

Forgive my ignorance, but how does this projector do with 24p content? I think I've seen that it doubles it to 48 hz, but I was under the impression that LCDs run at a constant refresh rate (ie, 60hz, 120hz) but maybe I'm just stuck in flat panel world.


Is there any frame judder, or 3:2 pulldown? Or is it smooth on all content? And am I right that there is no frame creation on this projector? Trying to figure out between this and the 8700.


Also, I doubt it since I haven't seen it anywhere, but can the projector do inverse telecine to fix 60hz refresh from a HTPC? If not I'll have to figure out how to fix it on the PC side.


----------



## ramosma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/19347511
> 
> 
> The Sanyo PLV-60 has HDMI output, what are you talking about?



Dude, the projector is nine years old - HDMI wasn't even out then.


Nice try


Component or VGA was best.


----------



## ramosma

Got it on Friday from VA. Unboxed and mounted on Saturday morning


Went with Sanus visionmount - vmpr1s - not the prettiest mount but works fine and J&R had on sale for $80 (no shipping). Mount is a bit of pain to level but got it working after a few tries.


Projector is mounted 22 feet back and 3 feet offcenter and the manual lens shift worked fine (140 inch diagonal) to center the image.


Projecting on a painted light gray wall and its pretty damn impressive picture. I was not as wowed as I was when I first got a projector 9 years ago but out of the box its a damn nice picture (with no calibration at this point). Image is sharp, punchy and crystal clear (really noticed hooked up to HTPC).


Watched a few college football games and no issues with motion blur.


The only issue I had was getting it calibrated with my HTPC. The PC was set to 1920x1080 and the image was getting cut off in a square box around the image.


Was driving me crazy until I went into the projector settings and noticed it was set to overscan by 8%! Setting it to 0% fixed the issue. Not sure why they do that on factory settings but hopefully this helps anyone avoid this issue in the future.


Next up - hooking up HDMI and Kinect (when its released)!


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acid Snow* /forum/post/19351633
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at getting my first LCD pj, and the 8350 looks like a potential option; because I see all of the AVS forum in here...
> 
> 
> But I have some questions: I'm going to be using this 100% with Xbox and PC usage, how effective has it been for both (I realize Xbox games are normally 720p). Is there a noticeable screen-door effect, or blur? I'm *rather picky* when it comes to good pq. I want the best I can get, for a PJ under $1400. *Should I seriously consider this 8350, or stick to an LCD TV for my PC/gaming use?* I don't know much about PJs, that's why I'm here.



I use the same content as you, I currently own a different 1080P lcd projector... I can't imagine a scenario where you would not be happy with a projector. This 8350 projector should definitely be on your short list.


Do some reading though... Make sure you understand the throw distance etc. Measure your room and placement out before you buy. LCD projector's are far more flexible however than most DLP projectors you will be looking at, however DLP's can offer some of their own benefits. I'm using only LCD projector's now because I need their placement flexibility in my new room.


but yeah... do it! It's awesome, well worth the time and money invested.


----------



## mike734

Another vote for Projector People. I wrote over the weekend about an issue and received a reply first thing this morning. I'm very satisfied with the response and can recommend them without hesitation.


As for the 8350, It is hooked up via component to a standard DVD player and via composite to an older, (but high quality) Laser Disc player. I'm not blown away but the images are serviceable. I too like the cinema setting in my completely dark home theater on a 102 inch Stewart screen.


I'm going to pick up a Blue Ray player this week. The only reason I don't have one yet is that I can't pull the trigger on a PlayStation because of the fixed price. If only I could get a price break I could see getting one. I'll probably buy one today and watch for a price break over Thanksgiving and get a refund. The other thing slowing me down is that I just moved and can't find the box with the HDMI cables. (but I digress)


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19352665
> 
> 
> The only reason I don't have one yet is that I can't pull the trigger on a PlayStation because of the fixed price. If only I could get a price break I could see getting one.



You do realize that the original Fat 60GB version weighed in at $500-$600? You "newbees" are getting off easy.


----------



## expertmech

I JUST ORDERED THE 8350!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm Drooling as I type...


Newbie to the whole game... I was set on the HD20 for months, read a few reviews and I was quickly sold...



QUESTION: I think the 8350 gives me a lot more flexibility over the HD20 and I think the brightness will be better for me since I'll be mostly watching SPORTS and NFL.


That said, I have a smaller room - I'll be about 11 feet from the screen and the ceiling is only 82''...... I put up tape for a 92''' screen and it overwhelms me...


I was thinking... CAN I CHANGE THE SCREEN SIZE AT WILL?


Can I just make a HUGE screen and then make a bunch of "Covers" or "masking Screens to change from 92'' to 84'' and then to that longer theater size and back?


I don't want to by a screen yet - I'd like to get an image on the wall 1st and I'm leaning towards just using that white laminate at 1st....



Thanks!!!! Can't wait!!!!!


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVChallenged* /forum/post/19352733
> 
> 
> You do realize that the original Fat 60GB version weighed in at $500-$600? You "newbees" are getting off easy.



I know, I know. The price is not that high. It just annoys me that I could buy a BR player for $100 but would always regret not buying the PlayStation. I also already have a the PS bluetooth remote and most packages come with one these days.


I'll shut up now and go buy one.


----------



## reye

Did anyone order the 8350 from VisualApex and received with double tape on the box? I inspected the box and seem like the first layer of the tape has been cut. So I am thinking if the unit I received is an open box item. What do you all think about the double tape? Any feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19347218
> 
> 
> Could somebody try who owns an 8350 try and tell me if u notice any difference in sharpness or uniformity with the pj at full zoom?
> 
> 
> My viewing room is very small and I would need full zoom to get a decent size.
> 
> 
> Thnx



Just Bumping the question....hope someone answers..


thanks


----------



## active_sport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/19347770
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input I was wondering the same thing for sports/gaming....I was @ the U of M/MSU game last week, I should of sold the tickets. Probably would of payed for the 8350



You should have sold them! I was looking for tickets to that game and they were pricy! Definately could have paid a good chunk of the 8350..........


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19353064
> 
> 
> Did anyone order the 8350 from VisualApex and received with double tape on the box? I inspected the box and seem like the first layer of the tape has been cut. So I am thinking if the unit I received is an open box item. What do you all think about the double tape? Any feedback would be appreciated.



Interesting and am wondering what the replies will be.


I purchased from VA also and am *impatiently* waiting order confirmation, realizing they are in WA and I'm in LA, I'm hoping they hurry up to get it before this coming weekend!


If PP would of had a "no signature required" option, I would of bought from them again.


----------



## sviru

Can anybody please compare noise coming from 8100 and 8350?


My last 8100 was quite noisy. It was easily heard on eco mode form 4m when sound was off.


Is there really big difference? I saw opinions that 8350 is almost dead silent in eco mode - it is hard to believe. There is so much heat inside this unit.


Another thing is panel alignment. Is it much better than 8100?


Thnx! I just don't know if it's worth changing 8100.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19352665
> 
> 
> Another vote for Projector People. I wrote over the weekend about an issue and received a reply first thing this morning. I'm very satisfied with the response and can recommend them without hesitation.
> 
> 
> As for the 8350, It is hooked up via component to a standard DVD player and via composite to an older, (but high quality) Laser Disc player. I'm not blown away but the images are serviceable. I too like the cinema setting in my completely dark home theater on a 102 inch Stewart screen.
> 
> 
> I'm going to pick up a Blue Ray player this week. The only reason I don't have one yet is that I can't pull the trigger on a PlayStation because of the fixed price. If only I could get a price break I could see getting one. I'll probably buy one today and watch for a price break over Thanksgiving and get a refund. The other thing slowing me down is that I just moved and can't find the box with the HDMI cables. (but I digress)



Mike, I too was not blown away with the image at first, but could only throw 1080i at it. I went ahead on bought a cheaper blu ray player (SAMSUNG 5500c) and am now blown away by the image. It is amazing!! I didn't plan on using the player as a video streamer, but the Samsung also supports streaming files from a PC and the 1080p mkv files I had were just as amazing. Bonus! Go get a blu-ray player ASAP! =)


----------



## sb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19353345
> 
> 
> 
> If PP would of had a "no signature required" option, I would of bought from them again.



I just have deliveries sent to work on those items. Saves you the trouble of having to stay home on delivery day. Of course, that isn't feasible for everyone.


----------



## derekvli

Quick question about the Dynamic Iris. Factory defaults have this off, I turned it on normal mode right away, didn't really compare with it on and off. There was also a high setting for this. From what I understand you get better blacks from this, should I just kick this up to high, if not why? Thanks!


----------



## giacoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19353064
> 
> 
> Did anyone order the 8350 from VisualApex and received with double tape on the box? I inspected the box and seem like the first layer of the tape has been cut. So I am thinking if the unit I received is an open box item. What do you all think about the double tape? Any feedback would be appreciated.



I just received my order from VisualApex and it had definitely been opened. Not sure if they just opened to put in their free dust cover though. They also did not include an invoice. The projector works fine though and I wouldn't think they would already have open box items so soon since the projector was just released.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19345567
> 
> 
> Wow u got refunded? My salesmen said sorry but he wasn't expecting a decrease in price. Is Kirk your salesmen?? My salesmen was Michael Norton
> 
> 
> Thanks



i got refunded too, however, it'll take weeks to get to my account.


----------



## ramosma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/19353497
> 
> 
> I just received my order from VisualApex and it had definitely been opened. Not sure if they just opened to put in their free dust cover though. They also did not include an invoice. The projector works fine though and I wouldn't think they would already have open box items so soon since the projector was just released.



I too received my order from VisualApex and it had been opened but I think that was just for the dust cover as well. The reset of the box including the projector itself looked unopened.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bk* /forum/post/19341681
> 
> 
> It's this weekend here in Atlanta along with 24 months interest free financing. That's what motivated me to ask if anyone knew when/if they'd be offering it.



I was in yesterday, and they have it -- well, its in their warehouse, and they get shipments 3 times a week, so it would be a day or two out. they have the 20% off through 10/23.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19352665
> 
> 
> Another vote for Projector People. I wrote over the weekend about an issue and received a reply first thing this morning. I'm very satisfied with the response and can recommend them without hesitation.
> 
> 
> As for the 8350, It is hooked up via component to a standard DVD player and via composite to an older, (but high quality) Laser Disc player. I'm not blown away but the images are serviceable. I too like the cinema setting in my completely dark home theater on a 102 inch Stewart screen.
> 
> 
> I'm going to pick up a Blue Ray player this week. The only reason I don't have one yet is that I can't pull the trigger on a PlayStation because of the fixed price. If only I could get a price break I could see getting one. I'll probably buy one today and watch for a price break over Thanksgiving and get a refund. The other thing slowing me down is that I just moved and can't find the box with the HDMI cables. (but I digress)



Watching DVD and LD is a bummer. Blu-ray and HDTV will blow you away.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19353365
> 
> 
> Mike, I too was not blown away with the image at first, but could only throw 1080i at it. I went ahead on bought a cheaper blu ray player (SAMSUNG 5500c) and am now blown away by the image. It is amazing!! I didn't plan on using the player as a video streamer, but the Samsung also supports streaming files from a PC and the 1080p mkv files I had were just as amazing. Bonus! Go get a blu-ray player ASAP! =)



Yes. With a good projector, if you put crap in, you get crap out. It really needs a Blu-ray player, or HDTV. You will see every flaw on a regular DVD player, or SDTV viewing.


----------



## buddahead

Had time to take a few screenshots with the 8350.This is my first try so I am still trying the best settings with my Canon xti rebel.Great camera'just got to figure out how to use it.Will ad more as time go's.Here is the link to my album.Thanks Bob

http://*******.com/24jx5de


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19353888
> 
> 
> Had time to take a few screenshots with the 8350.This is my first try so I am still trying the best settings with my Canon xti rebel.Great camera'just got to figure out how to use it.Will ad more as time go's.Here is the link to my album.Thanks Bob
> 
> http://*******.com/24jx5de



looks like ur site link got edited... maybe list the site without the .com since we know the rest.


----------



## Hagopian

I am curious as to the lens shift and focus controls. How difficult is the process to toggle between aspect ratios?


Am I going to be going nuts trying to set up a 2.35 movie, and then nuts again trying to go back to HD TV viewing?


Please offer any experience with this. Projector coming Wednesday.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## buddahead

Well try again.Some screen shot http://louisville-astro.org/gallery/...164&g2_page=34


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19354109
> 
> 
> I am curious as to the lens shift and focus controls. How difficult is the process to toggle between aspect ratios?
> 
> 
> Am I going to be going nuts trying to set up a 2.35 movie, and then nuts again trying to go back to HD TV viewing?
> 
> 
> Please offer any experience with this. Projector coming Wednesday.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



I do it all the time.Takes a few seconds.Easy.I like maual better the digital.


----------



## Hagopian

Great...thanks...I'd rather go with a 2.35 screen for the movie experience, but I suspect the bulk of my viewing will be HD TV....do you just put the DVD on pause, and then make your adjustments? I take it you're zooming the 2.35 image to fill the screen, and then shifting after, to align, and then focusing? Is that the correct sequence/process?


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19354189
> 
> 
> Great...thanks...I'd rather go with a 2.35 screen for the movie experience, but I suspect the bulk of my viewing will be HD TV....do you just put the DVD on pause, and then make your adjustments? I take it you're zooming the 2.35 image to fill the screen, and then shifting after, to align, and then focusing? Is that the correct sequence/process?



Ya, that is how I do it as well. I found myself having to adjust more than I thought, but then again it was during the setup\\exploring phase and trying different sources. I find it to be kind of a pain because the projector is mounted up high and can not easily see the lens shift controls on the top of the projector. Have to feel around until I find it. In my case, we will always have to keep a step stool close by to do these adjustments.


----------



## Hagopian

Thanks Derek and Budda,


I have a basement viewing room...limited screen height...so my choices is to either go with a 100" 16:9 screen ( 49 inch height ), or a 125" 2.35 screen ( 49 inch height ). If you had those choices, would you easily pick the 2.35. Since going to a 16:9 has a height limitation on screen size.


----------



## derekvli

I had a hard time deciding on screen size so I just went with an oddball size. My screen is the WilsonArt Laminate, and I left it at the 5 ft x 10 ft size which doesn't match up with either 16:9 or 2.35. It give me more flexibility in getting the largest screen size I can with each scope, but of course there will always be blank space either on the sides or top\\bottom. I thought this would bug me, but so far it hasn't. Many who have seen the image didnt even realize the bars until I pointed it out, or they were just being nice. Most probably like the clean setup (no void screen space), so this probably isn't all that helpful. =)


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19354483
> 
> 
> I had a hard time deciding on screen size so I just went with an oddball size. My screen is the WilsonArt Laminate, and I left it at the 5 ft x 10 ft size which doesn't match up with either 16:9 or 2.35. It give me more flexibility in getting the largest screen size I can with each scope, but of course there will always be blank space either on the sides or top\\bottom. I thought this would bug me, but so far it hasn't. Many who have seen the image didnt even realize the bars until I pointed it out, or they were just being nice. Most probably like the clean setup (no void screen space), so this probably isn't all that helpful. =)



How much did the laminate run for that size?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sb1* /forum/post/19353367
> 
> 
> I just have deliveries sent to work on those items. Saves you the trouble of having to stay home on delivery day. Of course, that isn't feasible for everyone.



Yeup.. that's how I had my last one shipped, but workie said.. no non-work deliveries anymore.


Just got confirmation. Yeah!


And.. makes sense on the double taping, the dust cover. Anyone want mine? I don't see the need for a dust cover.


----------



## jeancocteau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19353064
> 
> 
> Did anyone order the 8350 from VisualApex and received with double tape on the box? I inspected the box and seem like the first layer of the tape has been cut. So I am thinking if the unit I received is an open box item. What do you all think about the double tape? Any feedback would be appreciated.



How was the state of your box when it arrived? Mine looked like it had been brutalized, really beat to hell, but I talked to VA, sent pictures, and they said the projector is packed well enough that it wouldn't be affected by rough treatment. I'm really worried about it, especially the lamp, so I still haven't opened it.


----------



## FriscoAcura

Was going to order a 8100, read this thread. Went to Projector People, ordered one. Yay! I have been running a Optoma 719 since 2006. Should be a dramatic difference. Can't wait.


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19354908
> 
> 
> How was the state of your box when it arrived? Mine looked like it had been brutalized, really beat to hell, but I talked to VA, sent pictures, and they said the projector is packed well enough that it wouldn't be affected by rough treatment. I'm really worried about it, especially the lamp, so I still haven't opened it.



Send it back and insist you get an exchange. You have no idea if something is misaligned or compromised because of rough handling. Granted stuff normally gets abused in ways you haven't seen, but if the box is really bad it's received exceptional mishandling. Don't get sweet talked into keeping it only to have a problem that you may regret down the road. Thesse projectors cost alot of $ and you shouldn't have to start the experience with worry.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19355245
> 
> 
> Send it back and insist you get an exchange. You have no idea if something is misaligned or compromised because of rough handling. Granted stuff normally gets abused in ways you haven't seen, but if the box is really bad it's received exceptional mishandling. Don't get sweet talked into keeping it only to have a problem that you may regret down the road. Thesse projectors cost alot of $ and you shouldn't have to start the experience with worry.



It's good to make sure, but really...it's just a cardboard box. If that's the only thing that protected a system then a lot of things that come in cardboard boxes would arrive not working. Hell, I(and shipping companies from experience) can make the box look like it went through Hell but still have whatever inside not affected. (of course, I don't actually make look like that)


And if it arrived not working you can tell them it arrived not working. I'm sure VA would exchange it for you the same way. They don't seem like an evil retailer to me...


----------



## reye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19354908
> 
> 
> How was the state of your box when it arrived? Mine looked like it had been brutalized, really beat to hell, but I talked to VA, sent pictures, and they said the projector is packed well enough that it wouldn't be affected by rough treatment. I'm really worried about it, especially the lamp, so I still haven't opened it.



The box is in fair shape. Yes, the projector is packed well. But if Fedex throw the box around and your seems to be beaten up bad. I would be worry myself. And you took pictures of the box. You shouldnt have a problem getting the lamp replaced if it were damage during shipping.


----------



## HD_Bum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gameboy9* /forum/post/19351572
> 
> 
> I don't think I've heard anything about the lag on gaming issue... so I'm going to take a look at this when I get my 8350 today.
> 
> 
> As a "control", I checked my Mitsubishi HD1000U for lag using Rock Band 2's calibration feature. I ran the trial four times and got numbers of 56, 57, 51, and 58 ms, for an average of 55.5 ms. This setup goes through a receiver through a 6 foot HDMI run first, then about a 15-20 foot HDMI run to the projector. I actually think there's hardly any lag when I play Rock Band... or Forza Motorsport... or Lumines Supernova... or anything really. Interestingly, I have about a 140ms lag with regards to my 42" 120hz LG 42LD520 TV with a 6 foot HDMI run and it goes through nothing!



I would love to hear your RB2 results! Confirmation that lag is minimal is the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on buying this machine.


I know some have said gaming seems great but lag is sometimes hard to notice until you are consistently losing one on one fire fights in fps games...


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dysfunction26* /forum/post/19354521
> 
> 
> How much did the laminate run for that size?



It was under $100. $25 or so for some wood and glue, all set. There is a thread dedicated to building this screen and testing the gain. Can try to look up if interested.. its in the DIY screen section...I am very happy with the screen.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19355659
> 
> 
> It was under $100. $25 or so for some wood and glue, all set. There is a thread dedicated to building this screen and testing the gain. Can try to look up if interested.. its in the DIY screen section...I am very happy with the screen.



Do you think it would be possible to just velcro the laminate to the wall, or is it too heavy for that?


----------



## derekvli

ya, some people did velcro it to a wooden frame or wall. The trick is to try not to get any waves in the screen. Its not too heavy, and thought about using velcro, but wanted a more permanent solution. I don't recall the total weight of just the laminate, sorry.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=708240 

Designer White D354-60 is what i used.


Edit - added screenshot thread that might be helpful for you as well.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=749273


----------



## beagle77

Just purchased mine, should be here by Friday from PP, I think I should have gone with the Mitsu 4000 as today it was 75 off but the lady on the phone really liked the epson. I will use it mostly for tv and games so I will post my thoughts after I have it set up. I am replacing an old optima 31 480p projector


----------



## cmunro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ramosma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, the projector is nine years old - HDMI wasn't even out then.
> 
> 
> Nice try
> 
> 
> Component or VGA was best.



I was not trying anything.It was a mistake. PLV-Z60/PLV-60. Sorry about the post.


----------



## pbmax542




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank* /forum/post/19351962
> 
> 
> Well if you hit that spot where you really need to move your eye's left and right to focus on that side of the screen it can start to be a bit of an issue...I'm at 120" from about 12' back and it's pushing it! Only for online FPS type games though where a fraction of a second is often the difference of who walks away from that encounter.
> 
> 
> I don't care though, it's too much awesome all around when the screen is huge. Single player games like Fallout God of War etc don't suffer at all.



Yep, that's the problem. If you get to a point where you have to move your eyes around, it slows your reaction time. Since I only play fps's online, it puts me at a disadvantage.


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbmax542* /forum/post/19356782
> 
> 
> Yep, that's the problem. If you get to a point where you have to move your eyes around, it slows your reaction time.



Not to mention headaches, nausea, blurry vision. 9ft from a 50" does me in after about 1 to 1.5 hours, less if the level involves running through "tunnels" or other enclosed spaces.


----------



## Joey!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Latenter* /forum/post/19352307
> 
> 
> Forgive my ignorance, but how does this projector do with 24p content? I think I've seen that it doubles it to 48 hz, but I was under the impression that LCDs run at a constant refresh rate (ie, 60hz, 120hz) but maybe I'm just stuck in flat panel world.
> 
> 
> Is there any frame judder, or 3:2 pulldown? Or is it smooth on all content? And am I right that there is no frame creation on this projector? Trying to figure out between this and the 8700.
> 
> 
> Also, I doubt it since I haven't seen it anywhere, but can the projector do inverse telecine to fix 60hz refresh from a HTPC? If not I'll have to figure out how to fix it on the PC side.



I'm also curious about the 24fps / 48hz. Did you find out any more information about the way the Epson handles it?


----------



## gameboy9

I just ran the lag test on my new projector... the test returned a lag average of 58.5ms, about 3ms higher than the Mitsubishi... which is negligible. I don't think there's going to be a lag issue with this projector. Personally, I'm liking the new projector... but haven't seen any 1080p awesomeness I'm sure. Pretty sure Rock Band 2 is only 720p... so I'll have to see what a Blu-ray returns...


----------



## the-pred

Guys because of my 12 foot ceiling I had to build a permanent drop pedestal from the ceiling to screw my mount to. It is exactly 10'6" back from screen wall. When I punch in 10'6" to projectorcentrals calculator it says native size will be 79" diag. I have a 106" screen. Is there anyway from 10'6" I can get a full 106" diag with no focusing problems?


----------



## jeancocteau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19355245
> 
> 
> Send it back and insist you get an exchange. You have no idea if something is misaligned or compromised because of rough handling....



That's exactly what I'm worried about... but the guy assured me that this wasn't possible with projectors, saying that projectors and lamps are extremely sturdy and not subject to damage when packed in the box, that lamps especially, if they fail, they fail immediately. I'm most worried about the longterm effects, of it coming back to bite me down the road.


Anyone have an opinion on projectors' susceptibility to this sort of mishandling?


Thanks.


----------



## Falcore1

I just picked up my new 8350 at hhgregg thay are 20% off.

I have the unit set up and starting to fine tune.

So, one quick question-- auto iris, on-off and why?


----------



## Latenter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joey!* /forum/post/19356950
> 
> 
> I'm also curious about the 24fps / 48hz. Did you find out any more information about the way the Epson handles it?



No, haven't seen anything more.


Anyone know about how this is handled? Anyone with a discerning eye have some experience with the projector and 24p sources?


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19357354
> 
> 
> I just picked up my new 8350 at hhgregg thay are 20% off.
> 
> I have the unit set up and starting to fine tune.
> 
> So, one quick question-- auto iris, on-off and why?



Looks like they are not honoring the 20% online...or at least it was not reflected in the shopping cart. I may have to give them a call to see!


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19357086
> 
> 
> Guys because of my 12 foot ceiling I had to build a permanent drop pedestal from the ceiling to screw my mount to. It is exactly 10'6" back from screen wall. When I punch in 10'6" to projectorcentrals calculator it says native size will be 79" diag. I have a 106" screen. Is there anyway from 10'6" I can get a full 106" diag with no focusing problems?



Play with the calculator some more. I'm still not absolutely certain how it works but you will find that for a 106" diagonal you can go down to 10' 4". You may not be happy with the 10' 6" though because that distance is not in the green zone. Somebody please help out that understands all this better.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19357354
> 
> 
> I just picked up my new 8350 at hhgregg thay are 20% off.
> 
> I have the unit set up and starting to fine tune.
> 
> So, one quick question-- auto iris, on-off and why?



Did they have them in stock, or did they have to order it?


-I see you're in VA, what part?


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19357354
> 
> 
> I just picked up my new 8350 at hhgregg thay are 20% off.
> 
> I have the unit set up and starting to fine tune.
> 
> So, one quick question-- auto iris, on-off and why?



Auto iris is a way of improving the shadow performance in dark scenes. It is mechanical, so some are bothered by the noise, especially in fast response mode. Try it both ways. You will probably find the difference is subtle. Reliabiliy is likely higher with it off. A good compromise is to use it in normal (slow response) mode.


----------



## azhri

We got the 8350 in a week and a half ago, picture was amazing. The lens shift wasn't as sensitive as I was hoping but worked fine.


Big issue was that after 17 hours the Auto-Iris failed.


If you power cycled the projector it would reset and allow about 20 minutes of viewing then die to an error of "Auto-Iris Failure Please Call Epson Support."


Visual Apex was really good in processing the RMA, only issue is that they ship via ground instead of the normal next business day shipping that Epson does directly. They also would not do an advanced exchange so we had to track down all of the foam and plastic from the box to ship first. The replacement projector should be here tomorrow.


The viewing we did get in showed an amazing image on a 92in screen with a 12.1ft throw. The blacks were really amazing, especially in a light controlled room.


I saw that Epson dropped the MSRP by 100$? Has anyone had any success with VisualApex in getting a refund for that amount?


----------



## mike734

Bought a PS3 yesterday and am very impressed with the look of standard DVDs. They look much better than when played on my old DVD player. I will be watching a BD later today.


ADVICE:


For those of you still waiting for your new projector, center the lens with the horizontal/vertical adjustment wheels before you remove the yellow shipping collar that is around the perimeter of the lens. I had a tough time removing the collar so I just forced the lens up/down and left/right. Fortunately, I didn't hurt the mechanism.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19357119
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I'm worried about... but the guy assured me that this wasn't possible with projectors, saying that projectors and lamps are extremely sturdy and not subject to damage when packed in the box, that lamps especially, if they fail, they fail immediately. I'm most worried about the longterm effects, of it coming back to bite me down the road.
> 
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on projectors' susceptibility to this sort of mishandling?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If there is something wrong with it then you have 2 years of warranty. I'm sure you haven't even opened the box yet so you don't even know how the innards were affected? If something did get damaged I'd assume the problem would show up sooner than problems that show up with normal use. Although this is a projector, I don't believe most electronics(or this) are so fragile that they can't even be shipped.


Boxes can sometimes even look like they went through hell, but have gone through less than the boxes that look perfect. If some part became misaligned so easily, then I believe that Epson wouldn't have even shipped the product without out some special handling service to anyone(retailer or not).


----------



## Fishtank

I can't imagine a situation where the projector sustained damage that will only be noticeable after months of use. IMO if it works fine now, it's not going to break from some hidden damage down the road...


At which point you still have a warranty, and you will have the same wait time anyhow...


I don't design projectors however...


----------



## monakh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19357948
> 
> 
> Did they have them in stock, or did they have to order it?
> 
> 
> -I see you're in VA, what part?



As a fellow Virginian, may I suggest this...


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *monakh* /forum/post/19358494
> 
> 
> As a fellow Virginian, may I suggest this...



And get on it fast. Word is that the online retailers are complaining to Epson about the deal. I just got one in my grubby little hands though! YES!


----------



## pkriengsiri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19353701
> 
> 
> I was in yesterday, and they have it -- well, its in their warehouse, and they get shipments 3 times a week, so it would be a day or two out. they have the 20% off through 10/23.



Sigh... I hate this forum. Wasn't planning on upgrading in the immediate future, but I saw this and it was too good a deal to pass up










I just got mine from hhgregg. $1299.99 * 0.8 = $1039.99 + tax (came to a hair over $1100 in my neck of Atlanta). Didn't look like any of the stores had them in stock, but their computer said the distribution warehouse (metro Atlanta area) has 37 in stock (well, 36 now). It'll be delivered to the store tomorrow. Pretty easy transaction. Went in, told the guy what I wanted and was done. The only annoyance was their pushing of the insurance plans. No means no!!


The guy in the store said the 20% off promo ends tomorrow (10/20), but I also got a flyer in the mail today saying it's running through 10/23.


----------



## Falcore1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19357948
> 
> 
> Did they have them in stock, or did they have to order it?
> 
> 
> -I see you're in VA, what part?



They were in stock yesterday at the Fairfax Va store.

Price was 20% off the $1299.00 price, and if you join their on line "club" another $50.00 off. Good luck!


----------



## bitTRL1000

I too picked up the 8350 from HHGregg here in ATL. I got them to throw in a 3-year warranty and a Onkyo TXSR-608 all for the same price I would have paid online with no extended warranty.


This is my first projector, so I didn't know what to expect. My screen is coming later this week, but for now I'm projecting onto a green/grey wall. All I can say is "Wow!" My wife and I had the biggest grins on our faces as soon as the blu-ray Planet Earth loaded up. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that I know very little about projectors and yet had a nice image set up within about 5 minutes. Can't wait to get the screen.


----------



## sajandrew

Just wanted to post a quick update...I've had the projector almost a week now.


Watched a bunch of movies this weekend, and they all looked awesome, no issues.


Played some Xbox last night, the first time really since hooking everything up. I will say, Modern Warfare looks awesome, as good or better than my LCD TV upstairs. It blows my AE900 out of the water. The brightness, and the sharpness are very noticeable. Everything looks great.


I am using the stock settings so far, playing games on the Natural setting, and movies on Cinema. I am going to have a buddy come calibrate it after I have a few hundred hours on the bulb.


The only thing I noticed last night, was that the image had dropped about an inch. Figured out it was the vertical lens shift, which was easily readjusted. So, I don't know if it got bumped over the weekend, or if it just slowly dropped on it's own. My Panny had a locking mechanism on the lens shift, to ensure no further movement after it was set. If it moved on it's own, that could become annoying, time will tell.


Other than that minor issue, I LOVE the projector. It has a lot of wow factor for me, coming from an AE900.


Andy


----------



## ratfnk5

Has anybody found a calculator? I am looking to upgrade from my Infoucus 4805 and I was hoping to go up to a 106" screen and need to know if my measurements will work for that.


----------



## the-pred




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19357677
> 
> 
> Play with the calculator some more. I'm still not absolutely certain how it works but you will find that for a 106" diagonal you can go down to 10' 4". You may not be happy with the 10' 6" though because that distance is not in the green zone. Somebody please help out that understands all this better.



That is what I am wondering. With only having 10'6" from mount is that enough room for 106" screen. Not sure what you mean by the "green zone" but I was thinking the distance should be the exact placment that the projector throws to a 106 without any zoom. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratfnk5* /forum/post/19359248
> 
> 
> Has anybody found a calculator? I am looking to upgrade from my Infoucus 4805 and I was hoping to go up to a 106" screen and need to know if my measurements will work for that.


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm


----------



## dsteren

Has the price for the 8350 gone back up to $1299.00 across the board? I was going to order today and it appears to have gone back up in the last day or two...


----------



## pkriengsiri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pkriengsiri* /forum/post/19358710
> 
> 
> Sigh... I hate this forum. Wasn't planning on upgrading in the immediate future, but I saw this and it was too good a deal to pass up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got mine from hhgregg. $1299.99 * 0.8 = $1039.99 + tax (came to a hair over $1100 in my neck of Atlanta). Didn't look like any of the stores had them in stock, but their computer said the distribution warehouse (metro Atlanta area) has 37 in stock (well, 36 now). It'll be delivered to the store tomorrow. Pretty easy transaction. Went in, told the guy what I wanted and was done. The only annoyance was their pushing of the insurance plans. No means no!!
> 
> 
> The guy in the store said the 20% off promo ends tomorrow (10/20), but I also got a flyer in the mail today saying it's running through 10/23.



Hm. When I checked out, the salesman asked me for my email address. I just gave my regular junk email. I just took a look to see what they send and it looks like I got signed up for this:

http://info.hhgregg.com/hhgold.aspx 


My "personalized" coupons include a $75 $700-$1299 off TV/Video coupon. There's no restrictions about combining with the 20% off in the mouse type. It does say that it excludes prior purchases, so when I go in tomorrow, I'm going to try returning the projector and repurchasing it with the coupon.


----------



## asay82

dsteren ^^^ same here, Bad luck!


you may want to consider buying a refurb Epson 8500 directly from epson website for ~ USD 1490, just check out the code posited somewhere in this thread.


"too bad i cant do that as they do not accept foreign credit cards".


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joey!* /forum/post/19356950
> 
> 
> I'm also curious about the 24fps / 48hz. Did you find out any more information about the way the Epson handles it?



That pesky owner's manual thingy says the 8350 uses 2:2 "pull"down for a 48Hz refresh rate ... the 8700 uses 4:4 for 96Hz refresh. The actual unique framerate is still 24fps in both cases. ... pesky, worthless user manuals ...


----------



## microphage1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsteren* /forum/post/19359409
> 
> 
> Has the price for the 8350 gone back up to $1299.00 across the board? I was going to order today and it appears to have gone back up in the last day or two...




I'm in the same boat, looking for a place to buy from. There are some that offer for about 1190 or so though. Electronics Expo(after you use a coupon) and projector point. I've never used either retailer so buyer beware.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

^^^ There are better prices out there with no coupon code needed.


----------



## dsully444

PM please MR CP


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsully444* /forum/post/19361520
> 
> 
> PM please MR CP



Try "username of person you're asking for a PM from".com


----------



## gameboy9

Day 2 of owning my projector:

Watched Office Space on Blu-Ray on a PS3. It's pretty neat to see all of the little details pop out that you couldn't do on a 720p or a DVD. The color definitely is different... maybe it's more vibrant or the colors are darker than the Mitsubishi HD1000U... but I definitely like the results so far.


What I'm not caring about right now is what happens when I play Rock Band 2... it seems like the game isn't as sharp as the HD1000U, even if I jack the sharpness up all the way. However, this may be a cause of getting used to a 42" 120hz 1080p LCD TV, which seems very sharp to me. I could just be missing something though... like the substantial possibility that Rock Band 2 is programmed in 720p and is being upscaled. Still, I'm getting gold stars all the time... even though I get "robbed" on occasion.


So yeah, I'd say it's so far an 8/10... and hopefully it will work it's way up to 9/10.


----------



## ramosma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/19356075
> 
> 
> I was not trying anything.It was a mistake. PLV-Z60/PLV-60. Sorry about the post.



No issue, understand now the Sanyo models numbers are similar. Easy mistake










Update for the group, I mapped the Epson remote to my MX-800 and it works fine. The way to turn the projector off is by hitting the "on" button twice so I am looking for anyone that knows the hex codes for a discrete "off" button (if it exists) for the 8350.


----------



## socooy

There are no discrete or hex codes bit there are discrete codes available via rs232.


----------



## giacoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *socooy* /forum/post/19362536
> 
> 
> There are no discrete or hex codes bit there are discrete codes available via rs232.



I don't understand why they don't have discrete codes for power on/off and why they force owners to search for them. As fars as the rs232 option, what good is that for if my projector mounted on the ceiling? Do I need some sort of rs232 to ir adapter? Thanks.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVChallenged* /forum/post/19360011
> 
> 
> That pesky owner's manual thingy says the 8350 uses 2:2 "pull"down for a 48Hz refresh rate ... the 8700 uses 3:3 for 72Hz refresh. The actual unique framerate is still 24fps in both cases. ... pesky, worthless user manuals ...



Can someone please explain what the difference is between 2:2 and 2:4 etc pulldown? I set mine to 2:4 because I think that is what Arts review said to do, although this is one of those settings I have not idea why it should be done. Does the pulldown directly affect the refresh rate? What page in the manual did you find this 2:2 uses 48Hz refresh rate? Thanks a bunch!!!


Edit: found it on page 39, still have no idea what pulldown means. =)


----------



## ratfnk5

Much appriciation for the Calculator info.


----------



## ryoohki




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gameboy9* /forum/post/19362498
> 
> 
> Day 2 of owning my projector:
> 
> Watched Office Space on Blu-Ray on a PS3. It's pretty neat to see all of the little details pop out that you couldn't do on a 720p or a DVD. The color definitely is different... maybe it's more vibrant or the colors are darker than the Mitsubishi HD1000U... but I definitely like the results so far.
> 
> 
> What I'm not caring about right now is what happens when I play Rock Band 2... it seems like the game isn't as sharp as the HD1000U, even if I jack the sharpness up all the way. However, this may be a cause of getting used to a 42" 120hz 1080p LCD TV, which seems very sharp to me. I could just be missing something though... like the substantial possibility that Rock Band 2 is programmed in 720p and is being upscaled. Still, I'm getting gold stars all the time... even though I get "robbed" on occasion.
> 
> 
> So yeah, I'd say it's so far an 8/10... and hopefully it will work it's way up to 9/10.



Btw most PS3 and Xbox 360 games aren't even in 720p, about only 20% them are (real games not arcade games) most of the time they use a weird resolution of 640p. When you have a 1080p you can't wait for the next gen. I have a gaming PC on my, everything at 1080p with 8xAA and it look awesome!


----------



## mike 01hawk

I'm going to be upgrading from a 2004 Sony VPL-HS20 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HS20.htm 


I'm expecting a religious experience, can anyone confirm I'm gonna be absolutely blown out of my shoes?


Old and busted VLP-HS20 on top

New Awesomness 8350 on bottom

*Resolution*

1386x788

1920x1080












































*ANSI Light output*

1400

2000









*Contrast*

1300:1

50000:1 I guess I'll get blacker blacks. I also hear contrast is very subjective.

*Audible Noise*

28.0 dB

28.0 dB







Oh well, I was expecting quieter, but this is still "ok"

*Image Brightness for my projector distance / screen size*

15 FL

24 FL


----------



## ryoohki




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19363209
> 
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading from a 2004 Sony VPL-HS20 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HS20.htm
> 
> 
> I'm expecting a religious experience, can anyone confirm I'm gonna be absolutely blown out of my shoes?
> 
> 
> Old and busted VLP-HS20 on top
> 
> New Awesomness 8350 on bottom
> 
> *Resolution*
> 
> 1386x788
> 
> 1920x1080
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ANSI Light output*
> 
> 1400
> 
> 2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Contrast*
> 
> 1300:1
> 
> 50000:1 I guess I'll get blacker blacks. I also hear contrast is very subjective.
> 
> *Audible Noise*
> 
> 28.0 dB
> 
> 28.0 dB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, I was expecting quieter, but this is still "ok"
> 
> *Image Brightness for my projector distance / screen size*
> 
> 15 FL
> 
> 24 FL



If you watch Blu-ray, HDTV or game with a gaming PC at 1080p than yes you'll see a difference for sure. I mean i saw i big difference between my Sanyo Z2000 and my AE3000 (panasonic)


----------



## mike 01hawk

OTA HD, 720p rips and my HD-DVD collection










I have a Blu-Ray drive in my HTPC, but nothing of a library... yet.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19363209
> 
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading from a 2004 Sony VPL-HS20 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HS20.htm
> 
> 
> I'm expecting a religious experience, can anyone confirm I'm gonna be absolutely blown out of my shoes?
> 
> 
> Old and busted VLP-HS20 on top
> 
> New Awesomness 8350 on bottom
> 
> *Resolution*
> 
> 1386x788
> 
> 1920x1080
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ANSI Light output*
> 
> 1400
> 
> 2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Contrast*
> 
> 1300:1
> 
> 50000:1 I guess I'll get blacker blacks. I also hear contrast is very subjective.
> 
> *Audible Noise*
> 
> 28.0 dB
> 
> 28.0 dB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, I was expecting quieter, but this is still "ok"
> 
> *Image Brightness for my projector distance / screen size*
> 
> 15 FL
> 
> 24 FL



--------------

It will be a big difference. My old projector did 540i MAX, 800 ANSI, 800:1 contrast with a bulb that had almost 3000 hours on it so it was probably nothing even close to the numbers above. I wasn't blown out of my shoes by the picture (guess because I had an idea what this 1080p proj would do). It did (and still does) make me giggle like a little school girl! .. In a manly way of course! =)


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19363317
> 
> 
> OTA HD, 720p rips and my HD-DVD collection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Blu-Ray drive in my HTPC, but nothing of a library... yet.



Start backing up your movies using 1080p instead of 720p. With this projector, I noticed a decent difference between the 2. All my 720's just went into the recycle bin.


----------



## gameboy9




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ryoohki* /forum/post/19363198
> 
> 
> Btw most PS3 and Xbox 360 games aren't even in 720p, about only 20% them are (real games not arcade games) most of the time they use a weird resolution of 640p. When you have a 1080p you can't wait for the next gen. I have a gaming PC on my, everything at 1080p with 8xAA and it look awesome!



Well, that surely explains things... I think Gran Turismo 5 is supposed to be pure 1080p, so I have a feeling that I'll see the pure resolution of this projector pop up... whenever that game gets released...


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratfnk5* /forum/post/19362864
> 
> 
> Much appriciation for the Calculator info.



Here is a list of calibrators:

> and >


----------



## socooy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand why they don't have discrete codes for power on/off and why they force owners to search for them. As fars as the rs232 option, what good is that for if my projector mounted on the ceiling? Do I need some sort of rs232 to ir adapter? Thanks.



For the mx800 you would need the msc400 and then cat5 plus dapters to the projector.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19363404
> 
> 
> Start backing up your movies using 1080p instead of 720p. With this projector, I noticed a decent difference between the 2. All my 720's just went into the recycle bin.



That's what I was afraid of... lol


----------



## mafaka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris350* /forum/post/19344448
> 
> 
> I am also in Canada, where did you buy from? Price? I have been trying to find a decent price in Canada but it looks like I might go with the states. Where were you looking at getting it in Canada?



Hey Chris,


I bought from Projectorpoint.com


But as I mentioned in my other post. In the end the price came to about the same as what I would have paid here in Canada.


It may even be cheaper now in Canada, when I bought my 8350 the best price I could find in Canada was 1500$ and that was without shipping or taxes AND it would not have been in stock until October 15th.


In the end from PP I ended up paying 54.50 for the shipping on top of the 1299$ price. With conversion to CAD funds it came to a total of 1415$ which I was happy about because I figured even with border fees it couldn't come to much more than 1515$.


If I had purchased in Canada it would have been 1500+shipping+taxes of around 150$ so a total of like 1700$.


Well int he end UPS not only charged me border fees of 85$ but also taxes of 170$ for a total of 1415$ + 85 + 170$ = 1670$.


Regardless of the price I am so happy with this projector othing else matters at this point mwahahaha.


On a side note: does anyone know where I can buy a ceiling mount with 5 legs on it that will allow me to mount this BEAST of a projector no more than 2 - 4 inches from my ceiling?


Thanks

Dan


----------



## stretchsje




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19357666
> 
> 
> Looks like they are not honoring the 20% online...or at least it was not reflected in the shopping cart. I may have to give them a call to see!



I had to go to the store to get it (and pay tax), but my HHGregg had one in stock for $1040. After tax it was $1112. No coupon was needed for the 20% off. This was in Columbus, GA; they had one in stock and I grabbed it.


----------



## watchingf1

What distance can I mount the projector for a 92" screen? House came with the 92" already mounted and previous projector was mounted at 13ft. Can the 8350 be mounted in the same location?


I should have figured this all out before I ordered, but I can't pick it up until friday so there is time.


Thanks

wf1


(in-store ordered from HHgregg to get the 20% off. I think they only have 14 day return so I hope I like it.)


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ryoohki* /forum/post/19363198
> 
> 
> Btw most PS3 and Xbox 360 games aren't even in 720p, about only 20% them are (real games not arcade games) most of the time they use a weird resolution of 640p. When you have a 1080p you can't wait for the next gen. I have a gaming PC on my, everything at 1080p with 8xAA and it look awesome!



From the lists I've seen, it's the other way around (and arcade games at 1080p although sometimes no benefit from it). In fact, it's more of around 10% that are 640-680p. I'd like to know where you got your info because it's possible I didn't look in the right place.


----------



## marktnguyen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/19362691
> 
> 
> I don't understand why they don't have discrete codes for power on/off and why they force owners to search for them. As fars as the rs232 option, what good is that for if my projector mounted on the ceiling? Do I need some sort of rs232 to ir adapter? Thanks.



The Epson 8350/8100 DOES have a discrete power on/off but it does not seem to be published. I have the Harmony 880 and add the Epson 8350/8100 as the Epson 6100UB to get/use the off button. I'm not aware of any missing buttons due to this 'hack'.


----------



## ekscden

Got this projector yesterday and played with it. Truly amazing. Scenes that were just a grey blob on Panny AE500 have detail and depth that I couldn't used to see. Increased resolution is great too, almost too much detail in faces! Sharp, quiet, bright at 133"...really nothing to criticize at all.










Now the problem. Seeing how good this is I'm wondering if I should have gotten the 8700UB for even better blacks. My cost on this is less than $960 so has anyone compared this to the UB and can say whether it's worth over double the price for better black? I'd like the piece of mind of knowing either way.


----------



## reye

Which of this would be best for 8350? Or someone could suggest one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER


----------



## giacoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marktnguyen* /forum/post/19365687
> 
> 
> The Epson 8350/8100 DOES have a discrete power on/off but it does not seem to be published. I have the Harmony 880 and add the Epson 8350/8100 as the Epson 6100UB to get/use the off button. I'm not aware of any missing buttons due to this 'hack'.



Thanks for the reply. I sent an email to epson support two days ago and they have not replied. Are you certain they are discrete and not just one code for both power on and power off?


----------



## giacoman

In case anyone is interested, I just got a reply from Epson about the discrete codes for power on/power off. This is what they said:


Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350.


The disscrete IR remote codes for power on/power off are:


NEC-Format (Custom Code = 8355h)


90h Power ON

91h Power OFF


----------



## asay82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19365825
> 
> 
> Got this projector yesterday and played with it. Truly amazing. Scenes that were just a grey blob on Panny AE500 have detail and depth that I couldn't used to see. Increased resolution is great too, almost too much detail in faces! Sharp, quiet, bright at 133"...really nothing to criticize at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the problem. Seeing how good this is I'm wondering if I should have gotten the 8700UB for even better blacks. My cost on this is less than $960 so has anyone compared this to the UB and can say whether it's worth over double the price for better black? I'd like the piece of mind of knowing either way.



less than $960? how!?


if you are happy with it, dont change it. i'm currently happy with my H31 (480P)! i dont know what to expect, but i'll be happier for sure. :0


----------



## marktnguyen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/19365841
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I sent an email to epson support two days ago and they have not replied. Are you certain they are discrete and not just one code for both power on and power off?



I'm positive of the discrete off button. The on button may also be the power toggle button.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19365833
> 
> 
> Which of this would be best for 8350? Or someone could suggest one.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER



Chief Mount + Steel Pipe gives you much more flexibility, you can run the wires thru the pipe if you want, and quite frankly would look a heck of a lot better than those universal spider mounts.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/19365629
> 
> 
> What distance can I mount the projector for a 92" screen?



9-19ft for a 92 inch

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm


----------



## kris b bills

I have a question and maybe some of you experts can help me? I have been thinking of getting this projector but looking at projector central's calculator is confusing me??? I would like to do a 2.37 DIY WA screen. But when I switch between the two of 16:9 and 2.35 I get different FL between the two at the same height and throw distance. The screen would be 96wx39h distance from screen would be around 16'. I would be watching movies between the two aspect ratios. What am I missing here for it to be switching between the 17 and 24FL?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Hello all,


You think that with this settings I will really get 45fL?!! I'm planning on going on eco mode which supposedly drops brightness about 23% leaving me with ~34fL.

I don't know much about fL nor what they mean, but if I have a Draper luma 1.0 gain..... would that burn my retinas?


----------



## Lindros88

Does anyone know how the blacks on this pj compare to the blacks on the 9500?


----------



## Mazda74Speed3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19366909
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how the blacks on this pj compare to the blacks on the 9500?



ummmm the 9500UB has better blacks bar none, I'd say 30-40% better.


I'm installing a 9700UB next week which should be interesting to see.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asay82* /forum/post/19365925
> 
> 
> less than $960? how!?



That's an excellent question. I wasn't seriously considering upgrading just yet...but at that price I would reconsider.


----------



## the-pred

Where do you guys see this projector for $960?


----------



## pkriengsiri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19367713
> 
> 
> Where do you guys see this projector for $960?



Right now HHGregg sells it for $1299 - 20%. If you sign up for their mailing list, there's also a $75 off coupon. I wasn't able to get my local store to honor the coupon (they said a projector isn't a TV... BS), but there are others that have had luck. So it's either $1039 or $965 before tax.


----------



## jpolachak

My local HHGregg store here honored both the coupon and the 20% off both.


----------



## watchingf1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19368250
> 
> 
> My local HHGregg store here honored both the coupon and the 20% off both.



going to try and add the coupon to my in-store order. went in yesterday and ordered it to the store to save the shipping cost. cant pick up until tomorrow so i'll take the coupon and see if they will add it on.


thanks for posting the info.


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19362858
> 
> 
> Can someone please explain what the difference is between 2:2 and 2:4 etc pulldown?



There is no 2:4 (in the 8350 context). I assume you mean 2:3.


In the context of the 8350:

2:2 means the projector is taking each frame (from a 24p source) and displaying it twice for an effective refresh rate of 48Hz.


2:3 means the projector is displaying even/odd numbered frames in an alternating cadence to achieve an effective refresh rate of 60Hz.


----------



## kdog750

So the general concensus is that the 8500UB is better for black levels than the 8350 but you would need a dedicated theater room to notice?


----------



## detroit1

the 8350 is a much better buy; keep in mind the 8350 uses the same inorganic panels that the 8500 does and it is brighter; better for sports and can be used in bigger variety of settings with great results and it's cheaper !!


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19366967
> 
> 
> ummmm the 9500UB has better blacks bar none, I'd say 30-40% better.
> 
> 
> I'm installing a 9700UB next week which should be interesting to see.



Thanks.


----------



## Lindros88

With the 8350 the blacks aren't a shade of gray right? I'm a little worried because I previously owned a Panasonic G10 and the black levels increased to the point where they turned to an obvious shade of gray. Also, does anybody know if the 8350 has better blacks than the Panasonic AE4000?


----------



## detroit1

projector central already went over this; the 8350 will not beat the Panny 4000 or Epson 8500 in blacks but the blacks are very nice after you adjust the projector properly to where it really isn't going to matter that much; also not every scene you watch is going to have all blacks in it; only 10-20 % does ; maybe even less

bottom line is there is no way to justify the cost of the other Epsons or the Panny 4000, which is a great projector when comparing to the 8350.

there is major point of diminishing returns in the projector market just like other products in the audio/video industry; if you adjust the 8350 properly, you are going to get a great picture; to spend an extra 400 on an 8500 or an extra 800 for a panny 4000 does not make sense at this point;

you should read the full projector central review of the 8350; they are a very trusted and knowledgeable source of reviews in the industry


----------



## ramosma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/19365885
> 
> 
> In case anyone is interested, I just got a reply from Epson about the discrete codes for power on/power off. This is what they said:
> 
> 
> Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350.
> 
> 
> The discrete IR remote codes for power on/power off are:
> 
> 
> NEC-Format (Custom Code = 8355h)
> 
> 
> 90h Power ON
> 
> 91h Power OFF



If that's the case than this thread should help people determine the discretes for those that can work with hex codes (Pronto, URC, etc.)
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...read.cgi?18117 


I will try them and let everyone know if it works.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/19368898
> 
> 
> So the general concensus is that the 8500UB is better for black levels than the 8350 but you would need a dedicated theater room to notice?



No, actually the 8500 possess a different Multi'Layered Lens that allows for a level of brightness to be present while maintaining it's dynamic Contrast specifications much closer to what they are/should be. (200K:1)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1* /forum/post/19368909
> 
> 
> the 8350 is a much better buy; keep in mind the 8350 uses the same inorganic panels that the 8500 does and it is brighter; better for sports and can be used in bigger variety of settings with great results and it's cheaper !!



In keeping with the above, the lack of the same lens the 8500 has makes the Dynamic CR of the 8350 only 50K:1. Given the same lens, the 8350 would most likely achieve 100K:1 (...purely speculative that....) but it's 400 extra Lumens would limit such gains beyond that, I'm certain.


The real advantage the 8350 has is it's brightness, and ability to perform well in a wider variety of settings. Using a High Contrast Gray surface can help deliver better Black Levels, but care must be taken to choose wisely. It doesn't take much additional "Gray" to make a significant difference in perceived Contrast, but also...it doesn't take very much above a certain level to affect the quality of the Colors and Whites as well.


It's all about balancing everything...Room...Lighting....PJ....Throw Distance....Screen surface. Nail them all and WoWser! Ya got it goin' on!










Make any real degree of compromise on any of the aforementioned and don't whine too loudly about the end result.


In short, the 8500 is the best choice if your Room's lighting and Wall/Ceiling colors are under control. All it needs then is a very light Gray surface to allow for a slight degree of low Ambient Light view-ability. Or if in a dedicated room with non-reflective surrounding surfaces, a good reference white Screen...Mfg or DIY, makes no difference.


Personally I love the 8350 and it's flexibility, and it's contrast is just fine for most normal Mortals.


But that's me....but excepting the "normal" business.


----------



## Joco1114

Can anyone tell about 24/48fps? What are the diffs?


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pkriengsiri* /forum/post/19368182
> 
> 
> Right now HHGregg sells it for $1299 - 20%. If you sign up for their mailing list, there's also a $75 off coupon. I wasn't able to get my local store to honor the coupon (they said a projector isn't a TV... BS), but there are others that have had luck. So it's either $1039 or $965 before tax.



Tell the store manager to look it up on HHGregg's website. It's listed under TV's.


----------



## Davinleeds

Did AVS Science just start selling the 8350? I called and they said no. Too bad.


----------



## Lindros88

If I have a matte white screen in a completely light controlled room with dark walls, do you think this projector will exhibit acceptable black level performance?


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19371499
> 
> 
> If I have a matte white screen in a completely light controlled room with dark walls, do you think this projector will exhibit acceptable black level performance?



I think the real question is does it make sense to spend almost 2x as much to get better black levels? If money isn't an object than go with the 8700 or an 8500 or something else. Pretty sure 8350 is the best performer out right now for the price....


----------



## lin000

can any of you guys see the lcd color drift when you are really close to the screen?


----------



## Stivie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19371898
> 
> 
> can any of you guys see the lcd color drift when you are really close to the screen?



Yes I can on mine, but you do have to be really close. I sit about 11 feet away and the picture looks very sharp, even text.


----------



## allredp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19368250
> 
> 
> My local HHGregg store here honored both the coupon and the 20% off both.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/19368295
> 
> 
> going to try and add the coupon to my in-store order. went in yesterday and ordered it to the store to save the shipping cost. cant pick up until tomorrow so i'll take the coupon and see if they will add it on.
> 
> 
> thanks for posting the info.



Is there a way for a non-local online purchase from HHGregg that can use the coupon?!


I'm in the West...


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allredp* /forum/post/19372387
> 
> 
> Is there a way for a non-local online purchase from HHGregg that can use the coupon?!
> 
> 
> I'm in the West...



Would love to know this too, but I'm not holding my breath on it being possible.


----------



## mj75

Has any tried Art's settings? I'm trying to make sense of his rgb and gamma settings to no avail. Thanks.


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19372520
> 
> 
> Would love to know this too, but I'm not holding my breath on it being possible.



I am out west as well...would LOVE to know if someone can buy this and get it shipped!


----------



## cholak

Witch screen gain is better for this projector 1.0 or 1.2?

Do i get better blacks whith 1.0 gain?

Thanks in advance,btw,great forum!


----------



## kdog750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19373330
> 
> 
> I am out west as well...would LOVE to know if someone can buy this and get it shipped!



Im in the south and the closest store is 10 hours away. I tried to have two different locations ship it but they couldn't. They said they can only honor the discount if you pick it up in the store.


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cholak* /forum/post/19373359
> 
> 
> Witch screen gain is better for this projector 1.0 or 1.2?
> 
> Do i get better blacks whith 1.0 gain?
> 
> Thanks in advance,btw,great forum!



In a totally dark room, I'm just shooting onto Blackout Cloth at 133" which I assume would be about 1.0 gain and the blacks are incredibly deep. I'm really surprised at how deep and dark the scenes are even to my critical eyes. Plus it's so bright that I personally don't think it needs any gain even at my size. Even with moderate ambient light, I can't see needing screen gain.


----------



## paul9000

Been a lurker for a while but this is my first post. sure didn't think it would be for this brand/model. Been a fan of my BenQ DX650 DLP that I have had for about 6 years now. Sadly it has died and needs to be replaced.


So, I have ordered the Epson 8350 from Amazon and overnighted it so it should be here tomorrow. I am looking forward to the picture, just hope it can out do my BenQ DX650







I am still concerned about the color depth going from a DLP to an LCD and really wanted to hold out for the BenQ W6000 but with the reviews and the price difference I just couldn't justify the bigger expense.


Hope to have it installed by Sunday though I better get a good ceiling mount for this as it is a bit heavier than my DX650. I know there were a few posts on mounts and I will try to go back through and see if I can find them again but if anyone wants to throw me a hint it would be most welcome. My last mount I used for the 650 I had to rig with extra wire and a couple of coasters off one side of the projector to keep it level.


----------



## jkrepner

Hi All,


Please help me -- I'm racking my brain trying to figure out if this feature is present on the 8350 and if it's not, is that feature worth the extra cost to move up to the 8700 or Panny 4000? For the money, it certainly looks hard to beat the 8350.


My understanding from reading the projector central and projector review sites, that in a nutshell creative frame interpolation will take a 24 fps source and make it 48 fps or 96 fps (same with 60 fps to 120fps). My new LG tv has "smooth motion" which I suspect does the same thing and I normally bypass it. Is that what creative frame interpolation means?


Sorry for the dumb question and my searches haven't yielded the info I'm looking for, though it could be a case of wrong search criteria.


Also, if shooting onto a 2.35:1 screen, how difficult is it to reach up and adjust the zoom/focus/shift controls to adjust for 16:9 content? The Panny 4000 does this electronically, but I'm starting to think I can save $700 and just adjust manually.


Thanks in advance.

Jeff


----------



## kdog750

Do projectors follow the same discount path as HD TV's towards Christmas? Can we expect some discount near black friday or is that probably not going to happen?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/19374055
> 
> 
> Do projectors follow the same discount path as HD TV's towards Christmas? Can we expect some discount near black friday or is that probably not going to happen?



Probably *not* going to happen.


----------



## microphage1

Pulled the trigger as well from Projector people...which were great to work with. now the wait begins...


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mj75* /forum/post/19373291
> 
> 
> Has any tried Art's settings? I'm trying to make sense of his rgb and gamma settings to no avail. Thanks.



Yes his settings work well on my Carada bw screen.He uses one to.His settings are pretty close to defalut on most.Be sure to rasie the gamma to 2.4.These settings are in the advanced menu on the main menu page.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cholak* /forum/post/19373359
> 
> 
> Witch screen gain is better for this projector 1.0 or 1.2?
> 
> Do i get better blacks whith 1.0 gain?
> 
> Thanks in advance,btw,great forum!



I doublt you would see the difference.I use a 1.4 and it works great.You can adjust your fp to what type of screen you have 'so it really makes no differnece.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkrepner* /forum/post/19373968
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Please help me -- I'm racking my brain trying to figure out if this feature is present on the 8350 and if it's not, is that feature worth the extra cost to move up to the 8700 or Panny 4000? For the money, it certainly looks hard to beat the 8350.
> 
> 
> My understanding from reading the projector central and projector review sites, that in a nutshell creative frame interpolation will take a 24 fps source and make it 48 fps or 96 fps (same with 60 fps to 120fps). My new LG tv has "smooth motion" which I suspect does the same thing and I normally bypass it. Is that what creative frame interpolation means?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the dumb question and my searches haven't yielded the info I'm looking for, though it could be a case of wrong search criteria.
> 
> 
> Also, if shooting onto a 2.35:1 screen, how difficult is it to reach up and adjust the zoom/focus/shift controls to adjust for 16:9 content? The Panny 4000 does this electronically, but I'm starting to think I can save $700 and just adjust manually.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Jeff



Adjusting the 8350 for 2.35 and 1.78 is quite easy and quick just using the manual lens shift controls'Takes just a few minutes.The ae4000 for mw would not be worth the money over the 8350.If I was going to spend $2k I would get the 8700 which has better blacks over the ae4000 and 8350.Or a littel more the JVC 250 if movies were my main viewing


----------



## cholak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19374557
> 
> 
> I doublt you would see the difference.I use a 1.4 and it works great.You can adjust your fp to what type of screen you have 'so it really makes no differnece.



Yes,but higher gain lower's black(it makes it dark gray).Or i am wrong on this one?


----------



## ratfnk5

I have a few questions.


Any one familiar with the screens that come with the package from the projector people (Elite)

I was looking at getting the Da-lite Model B before I found this package.

If i go with the Model B. should i get the High Contast Matte white or the regular Matte white?


thanks!


----------



## jkrepner

Thanks Buddahead. It seems like the ae4000 and 8350 are neck and neck in terms of picture quality so it comes down to spending more for the auto zoom features when you you boil it all down. Now, the JVC looks interesting. I'll pop over to that thread to learn more.


Also, care to comment on the frame interpolation?


Thanks again!

Jeff


----------



## mj75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes his settings work well on my Carada bw screen.He uses one to.His settings are pretty close to defalut on most.Be sure to rasie the gamma to 2.4.These settings are in the advanced menu on the main menu page.



Thank you. I ordered mine at VA with the 106" screen. Carada bw has a 1.4 gain vs. 1.1 with the visualapex screen. But I'll try the settings anyways to see.


----------



## squeeks

Thinking about getting an 8350. I just took my first step into projectors with an optoma HD700x but I am not really thrilled witht he picture quality / brightness.


Will I notice a big difference between the hd700x and the 8350 as far as those two catagories go?


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkrepner* /forum/post/19375215
> 
> 
> Thanks Buddahead. It seems like the ae4000 and 8350 are neck and neck in terms of picture quality so it comes down to spending more for the auto zoom features when you you boil it all down. Now, the JVC looks interesting. I'll pop over to that thread to learn more.
> 
> 
> Also, care to comment on the frame interpolation?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Jeff



I only use my FP for movies'so FI is not important,But sports would benefit from it.BOB


----------



## conslaw

I just took delivery of my Epson 8350 yesterday. It replaces a 6 year old Sanyo PLV-Z2 that crunched its blue filter just after I replaced the lamp for the first time. (Oh well.) I ordered it from Visual Apex just like the Sanyo. Perfect service both times.


Anyway, compared to the 720P Sanyo, the extra resolution of the 8350 isn't that noticable, but the added brightness is. The new Epson is about 30% bigger than the Sanyo, and it barely fits on my projector stand. BBC/Discovery Channel "Life" documentary on Blu-ray looked excellent. It works great with the PS3.


I didn't see any keystone adjustment, but out of the box, it needs virtually no correction, whereas the old Sanyo in the same spot obviously needed a keystone adjustment.


I saw some blooming of reds in a Lilo and Stitch DVD. The DVD player feeds into my Onkyo receiver via component cables, and the receiver sends it to the projector over HDMI.


I project onto a TAN wall. With both projectors, your eyes adjust to any color distortion so you don't even notice it when you are watching a movie or playing a game.


Another pro over the Sanyo - The Epson 8350 has a lighted remote.


----------



## jkrepner

Same here, movies mostly and sports probably on the occasional super bowl Sunday, etc.


Thanks

Jeff


edit: called local HH Gregg $1040 right now.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

FYI-

Best Buy doesn't list the 8350 on their website but some stores have them in stock.

I found one on the top shelf by the projector display.

It didn't even show up in the computer until they scanned the barcode on the box.


----------



## jkresh

hopefully picking mine up from hhgregg tomorrow, ordered it online through them (at full price) they are supposed to match the in store price when I pick it up, if they give me any trouble I will just walk away. May also pick up htib looking at the onkyo hts-6300 but if they don't have it I can always get it from amazon next week, would like to have everything at least basically setup tomorrow for a screening (but wont have the ceiling mount or proper audio cables to replace whatever the onkyo comes with before next week).


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19353378
> 
> 
> Quick question about the Dynamic Iris. Factory defaults have this off, I turned it on normal mode right away, didn't really compare with it on and off. There was also a high setting for this. From what I understand you get better blacks from this, should I just kick this up to high, if not why? Thanks!



Anyone have any feedback on this question in regards to using or not using the dynamic iris?


----------



## Waterski

Long time lurker. First time poster.


I did a quick scan of the thread and did not see this.


In real life usage, how would the 8350 compare for picture quality to the BenQ 8700+ that just died on me. The specs look great and the reviews are really good, I would rather keep the extra $1000 that this unit would save me vs some of the other higher end units, But I do not want a downgrade in HDTV picture quality.


----------



## derekvli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19377207
> 
> 
> Anyone have any feedback on this question in regards to using or not using the dynamic iris?



Quick update of sorts. At first I really didn't hear it, but after having it on about a week, now I do. Not sure if its actually getting louder or if it is just becoming more noticable. I turned it back off and didn't really notice a difference in black levels, at least not with the content I've played so far. Curious to see what others have done and are noticing too.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19377788
> 
> 
> Quick update of sorts. At first I really didn't hear it, but after having it on about a week, now I do. Not sure if its actually getting louder or if it is just becoming more noticable. I turned it back off and didn't really notice a difference in black levels, at least not with the content I've played so far. Curious to see what others have done and are noticing too.



My 8530 iris makes no sound that I can detect.


----------



## bitTRL1000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derekvli* /forum/post/19377788
> 
> 
> Quick update of sorts. At first I really didn't hear it, but after having it on about a week, now I do. Not sure if its actually getting louder or if it is just becoming more noticable. I turned it back off and didn't really notice a difference in black levels, at least not with the content I've played so far. Curious to see what others have done and are noticing too.



My 8350 is about 5-6 feet behind my head, and I can't hear it while content is playing and my receiver is set to a normal volume. I can hear it distinctly when I pause the TV or hit mute.


----------



## domingos1965

how about some screen shots ?



thanks


----------



## bk

I bought an 8350 earlier this week to age my rapidly dimming Epson HC720. Kudos to Epson for maintaining the mount pattern between their many generations of Home Cinema projectors. Basically, the mount holes in the bottom of the HC8350 are in the same position as the HC720, and as a result I was able to re-use my homemade mount without modification.


I'm projecting onto a 110" diagonal (96x54) Da-Lite Model C Hi-Power screen that I purchased probably 6 years ago when I bought my first projector - an InFocus 4805. That screen has performed very well and continues to function without problems.


The projector is mounted just above, and slightly to the left, of the primary seating position at about 17 feet from the screen. Very nice to be able to upgrade from the HC720 to the HC8350 without having to make any changes to the mount or mounting position. From the mount position I needed a little vertical lens adjustment and no horizontal adjustment to center the picture on the screen. Basically, I was able to swap projectors and get the 8350 centered on the screen in about 15 minutes. The projector is very quiet and not noticeable when watching TV or movies. If you mute the audio and listen for it you can hear a slight noise from the exhaust, but it's a low pitch sound and not the least bit distracting. Haven't tried operation yet with the iris on so I can't comment on that.


Out-of-the box the projector looks very nice in natural mode and is noticeably better in all aspects from my HC720 as you might expect. The projector is setup in my our family room with a bank of windows on the right and kitchen to the rear which is why I really need the 8350's lumens to watch sports during the day. With the combination of the Da-Lite High Power screen and 8350's brightness we can watch sports during the day with pretty good success. Obviously, it's not nearly as good a picture as night time movie viewing, but then again it doesn't need to be.


Overall I'm very happy with the 8350. D2Fine inorganic panel, very bright, good colors, 1080p. What's not to like? I'll give it a more thorough calibration once I get a ~100 hours on the lamp, but as is the colors, brightness, and contrast don't look bad at all.


----------



## Amber1

Hello experts. We returned a HD20 and purchased a 8350 based on feedback from MississippiMan and others on this thread. Purchased Pioneer 1020k and ready to install tomorrow. We are set to mount the projector and ran into another major issue.


Basement contractor prewired the projector mounting position based on our feedback. unforutunately, this mount point had to be on a droped ceiling area (due to a load bearing beam 7.6 feet from floor). Now that we received the projector and the peerless flush mount, the huge size of the projector is going to take over the basement especially as it is in the middle of hte room and will almost drop to 6 and half feet high when installed.


Se we are going to ask contractor to move the ceiling outlet and hdmi cables etc to a different location. Our choice si to move towards one end of the beam (so that it is not in the middle of the room) and use the lens shift feature to center the image (will need to shift image by 4 feet). Is a lens shift of 4 feet possible? OR


Move the mount point towards to the wall where we will project by 3 feet. Moving 3 feel will allow us to escape the dropped ceiling and mount to the regular ceiling (8 feet 8 inches). This will completely take the projector out of view and is good. This option will make the image size really small (66" wide). Playing with the pj central tool ( if i know how to use it) is getting the image to 89" wide with max zoom of 2.11. 89" is still too small. We were hoping to get a larger image and not sure if we used the tool correctly.


Either way we have to spend the money to get the drywall cut and cables and plug points moved. Which would be better for the picture quality? lens shift of 4 feet and getting the image size we would like (104" wide). projector will still be mounted at a lower ht but pushed to a side or mounted closer to the front wall, higher mount thus our of sight, but with a zoomed in image.


Sorry for the long post and hope you understand our desperation at this late stage. Contractor will be done with our basement in the next 2 days or so. Please give us a few minutes of your time to advice.


----------



## jayn_j

Lens shift from how far away? 4 ft shift from 20', no problem. 4' shift from 8', big problem.


I simply wouldn't use a projector to do a 65" image. A plasma is simply a better choice for those conditions.


Take it as far back as you can? Use a drop mount if you need to in order to clear the beam? It is hard to advise as we don't know your room dimensions, location of the beam, how big a screen you are aiming for, ambient light in the room, etc.


----------



## allredp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19378169
> 
> 
> Se we are going to ask contractor to move the ceiling outlet and hdmi cables etc to a different location. Our choice si to move towards one end of the beam (so that it is not in the middle of the room) and use the lens shift feature to center the image (will need to shift image by 4 feet). Is a lens shift of 4 feet possible? OR
> 
> 
> Move the mount point towards to the wall where we will project by 3 feet. Moving 3 feel will allow us to escape the dropped ceiling and mount to the regular ceiling (8 feet 8 inches). This will completely take the projector out of view and is good. This option will make the image size really small (66" wide). Playing with the pj central tool ( if i know how to use it) is getting the image to 89" wide with max zoom of 2.11. 89" is still too small. We were hoping to get a larger image and not sure if we used the tool correctly.



Simple way to test to get you started before any real experts chime in: if you have the projector (you do, right?), get a another person and an extension cord and literally turn it on and try it in your various optional places. Either with a ladder or some kind of stand, set the pj up at the spot and work the zoom and shift to see exactly how big or how dim it gets and then you know for sure.


From my experience 4' is easy to handle horizontally, but you take some hit in lumens/brightness (and perhaps other ways?). OTOH, if you are really close to the screen, that is good for lumens/brightness, but may hurt your blacks a little.


Either way, the 8100 is going to be the most flexible projector you could have in this situation...


Good luck and let us know what you end up with.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19378199
> 
> 
> Lens shift from how far away? 4 ft shift from 20', no problem. 4' shift from 8', big problem.
> 
> 
> I simply wouldn't use a projector to do a 65" image. A plasma is simply a better choice for those conditions.
> 
> 
> Take it as far back as you can? Use a drop mount if you need to in order to clear the beam? It is hard to advise as we don't know your room dimensions, location of the beam, how big a screen you are aiming for, ambient light in the room, etc.



Agree with jayn here.65IN IMAGE IS ABSURD.Do what ever it takes to get the biggest image possible.I would post a pic of the room for more help.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19377862
> 
> 
> My 8530 iris makes no sound that I can detect.



Do you use Normal or Fast?


----------



## Amber1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19378199
> 
> 
> Lens shift from how far away? 4 ft shift from 20', no problem. 4' shift from 8', big problem.
> 
> 
> I simply wouldn't use a projector to do a 65" image. A plasma is simply a better choice for those conditions.
> 
> 
> Take it as far back as you can? Use a drop mount if you need to in order to clear the beam? It is hard to advise as we don't know your room dimensions, location of the beam, how big a screen you are aiming for, ambient light in the room, etc.



distance of mount to wall if i was going to rely on lens shift is 13' 8" from wall.

will post some pictures.


----------



## Amber1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allredp* /forum/post/19378219
> 
> 
> Simple way to test to get you started before any real experts chime in: if you have the projector (you do, right?), get a another person and an extension cord and literally turn it on and try it in your various optional places. Either with a ladder or some kind of stand, set the pj up at the spot and work the zoom and shift to see exactly how big or how dim it gets and then you know for sure.
> 
> 
> From my experience 4' is easy to handle horizontally, but you take some hit in lumens/brightness (and perhaps other ways?). OTOH, if you are really close to the screen, that is good for lumens/brightness, but may hurt your blacks a little.
> 
> 
> Either way, the 8100 is going to be the most flexible projector you could have in this situation...
> 
> 
> Good luck and let us know what you end up with.



yes. we took deivery from proj people 3 days ago. Thanks for the advice. will take your advice and connect the pj and play with it without mounting. Will post some pictures for better understanding.


----------



## Smidgerine

So, I just got an 8700 from Jason, but the deal at HHGregg was so good, I decided to replace the HC400 in my exercise room with the 8350 rather than buying a new bulb. 965 for this projector is just absurd. The sharpness was night and day different on the two. I haven't watched too much as I'm just typing right now...but Auburn LSU is on the agenda for later today.


Some people have asked...just sitting here, I can tell the 8700 UB has better blacks. $1000 better, I think it totally depends on your situation. What's crazy is this is still SOOOOO good. I have tweaked nothing and am satisfied. I'll get to tweaking later. Now, I'll promise myself no more upgrades until the Epson 41350 with 3D in two years!


It really amazes me that some people would spend 1000 bucks on a 46" tv when this is so much bigger and better.


----------



## jandawil

Hey guys....this projector has me intrigued. I'm a long time Panny ae900u owner and it has been a great PJ, but with almost 3,000 hours on the bulb it has grown quite dim. Other than that it has been perfect and its definitely had a good run. Part of me says just spend $300 on a bulb and it will look as good as new, but for another $700....1080P and newer D7 LCD panels is tempting.


One question I have is this: I have heard no mention of any SDE on 1080p LCD PJs. Is that pretty much a thing of the past now with 1080P? I know 720P LCD had pretty noticeable SDE which is why I went with Panny for their smooth screen technology. You get no SDE with Panny...although with bit of a sacrifice in sharpness.


I am curious if anyone upgraded from the 900u to hear your thoughts and impressions.


----------



## cdelena




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19378579
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> One question I have is this: I have heard no mention of any SDE on 1080p LCD PJs.
> 
> ...



My son who is a 720p user came over and spent a good while trying to find SDE... he saw none and I never noticed any.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cdelena* /forum/post/19378678
> 
> 
> My son who is a 720p user came over and spent a good while trying to find SDE... he saw none and I never noticed any.



Very cool. That's what I had hoped. Sort of takes the need away for Panny's SmoothScreen. Wonder why they still do that on their newer 1080P units? The 900u has a great picture, but I still find myself messing with the focus at times trying unsuccessfully to get it just a little better.


----------



## Joco1114

No one answered: what are the differences between 24 and 48 fps?


----------



## eddieb187

HD sports look amazing.

I'm in heaven.

Ready for the World Series and Super Bowl.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19378579
> 
> 
> Hey guys....this projector has me intrigued. I'm a long time Panny ae900u owner and it has been a great PJ, but with almost 3,000 hours on the bulb it has grown quite dim. Other than that it has been perfect and its definitely had a good run. Part of me says just spend $300 on a bulb and it will look as good as new, but for another $700....1080P and newer D7 LCD panels is tempting.
> 
> 
> One question I have is this: I have heard no mention of any SDE on 1080p LCD PJs. Is that pretty much a thing of the past now with 1080P? I know 720P LCD had pretty noticeable SDE which is why I went with Panny for their smooth screen technology. You get no SDE with Panny...although with bit of a sacrifice in sharpness.
> 
> *I am curious if anyone upgraded from the 900u to hear your thoughts and impressions*.



In the same vein, anyone upgrade from an AX200? At the 1k price point I'm also seriously considering upgrading as opposed to dropping 3 bills on a new lamp.


----------



## Amber1

Will Lens shift help to resolve my situation of PJ placement. Please see my basement pictures for a better idea of our situation. Please advice.

http://picasaweb.google.com/11202492...eat=directlink


----------



## Browninggold




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieb187* /forum/post/19378918
> 
> 
> HD sports look amazing.
> 
> I'm in heaven.
> 
> Ready for the World Series and Super Bowl.



nice pictures eddie thanks for posting


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broadwayblue* /forum/post/19378927
> 
> 
> In the same vein, anyone upgrade from an AX200? At the 1k price point I'm also seriously considering upgrading as opposed to dropping 3 bills on a new lamp.



I did and I am very happy with the 8350.


Picture is a step sharper to my eyes and I like that.


It actually seems brighter too and I'm watching the LSU/Auburn game on "natural" mode. If I go to living room or dynamic, it's way too bright for me and this is mid-day with ambient light.


I'm using Art's settings, but will be tweaking them slightly to my tastes. The deviation so far from his is changing skin tone to 4.


Watched standard dvd "Robin Hood" on cinema, again mid-day and it was bright enough, but maybe could of bumped it to "natural".


Colors are pretty good, but will try a little tweaking to see if I can improve upon them.


This is at 17' and 140" screen (DIY-black widow).


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amber1* /forum/post/19378947
> 
> 
> Will Lens shift help to resolve my situation of PJ placement. Please see my basement pictures for a better idea of our situation. Please advice.
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/11202492...eat=directlink



At 14'6" mounting position, I'd be putting up a 120" screen.


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *conslaw* /forum/post/19375873
> 
> 
> I just took delivery of my Epson 8350 yesterday. It replaces a 6 year old Sanyo PLV-Z2 that crunched its blue filter just after I replaced the lamp for the first time. (Oh well.) I ordered it from Visual Apex just like the Sanyo. Perfect service both times.
> 
> 
> Anyway, compared to the 720P Sanyo, the extra resolution of the 8350 isn't that noticable, but the added brightness is. The new Epson is about 30% bigger than the Sanyo, and it barely fits on my projector stand. BBC/Discovery Channel "Life" documentary on Blu-ray looked excellent. It works great with the PS3.
> 
> 
> I didn't see any keystone adjustment, but out of the box, it needs virtually no correction, whereas the old Sanyo in the same spot obviously needed a keystone adjustment.
> 
> 
> I saw some blooming of reds in a Lilo and Stitch DVD. The DVD player feeds into my Onkyo receiver via component cables, and the receiver sends it to the projector over HDMI.
> 
> 
> I project onto a TAN wall. With both projectors, your eyes adjust to any color distortion so you don't even notice it when you are watching a movie or playing a game.
> 
> 
> Another pro over the Sanyo - The Epson 8350 has a lighted remote.



Why would you use keystone adjustments with a projector that has MASSIVE lense shift capabilities????


----------



## pkriengsiri

I just got done hanging mine (replaced a PT-AX100u) and all I can say is WOW!!!


The Panny was a light cannon in and of itself, but not only can this Epson keep step, the contrast is so much better it's a night and day difference. I've got Tenn-AL on right now. In living room mode, I've got the ceiling fan lights on in the room and in a room behind this (that opens into the living room), I've got another ceiling fan on and 4x 120watt indoor floods on. Perfectly watchable. Old Panny couldn't do that. Keep in mind that there's a dynamic mode that's even brighter that I'm not using becuase I found it to be **too bright** in my living room with some lights on.


Another thing I notice right off the bat is that it's whisper quiet. The Panny was noticable because it was right over the couch. It wasn't bad or anything, just noticable. I can't hear this Epson at all.


So, for anyone that might still have any reservations about the brightness, I say cast them aside. I upgraded from one of the brigtest units out there and I'm blown away.


I've got some pics that I'll post tomorrow about the performance w/ ambient light but... there's TV to watch for now!


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *conslaw* /forum/post/19375873
> 
> 
> I just took delivery of my Epson 8350 yesterday. It replaces a 6 year old Sanyo PLV-Z2 that crunched its blue filter just after I replaced the lamp for the first time. (Oh well.) I ordered it from Visual Apex just like the Sanyo. Perfect service both times.
> 
> 
> Anyway, compared to the 720P Sanyo, the extra resolution of the 8350 isn't that noticable,*(I noticed the difference from my Z2 and Z4s immediately)* but the added brightness is*(hell yeah)*. The new Epson is about 30% bigger than the Sanyo, and it barely fits on my projector stand*(better airflow inside...less likely to overheat like the Sanyo)*. BBC/Discovery Channel "Life" documentary on Blu-ray looked excellent. It works great with the PS3.
> 
> 
> I didn't see any keystone adjustment, but out of the box, it needs virtually no correction, whereas the old Sanyo in the same spot obviously needed a keystone adjustment*(why keystone on the Sanyo?? as long as the PJ is square with the screen, use lens shift)*.
> 
> 
> I saw some blooming of reds in a Lilo and Stitch DVD*(have you calibrated the Epson?)*. The DVD player feeds into my Onkyo receiver via component cables, and the receiver sends it to the projector over HDMI.
> 
> 
> I project onto a TAN wall. With both projectors, your eyes adjust to any color distortion so you don't even notice it when you are watching a movie or playing a game.
> 
> 
> Another pro over the Sanyo - The Epson 8350 has a lighted remote*(so does the Sanyo remote...just press the light button at the top)*.



I added my comments into the quote above. The difference between the Epson 8350 and the Sanyo Z2 should be IMMENSE. I noticed a huge difference when I replaced my Sanyo Z4 with an Epson 6100. You should see a huge difference as well.


----------



## greighn

Another happy HHGregg customer. I just got my Epson 8350 at HHGreggs in Delaware (home of tax free shopping!) for $964.00. The sale price of 20% off is now shown on the display cards next to the projector so I didn't even have to ask. When I pulled out my $75 coupon, the salemsan said "no problem", but when he rang it up, it only came to $50 off (probably due to the fact the sale price is now in the computer. No problem, though. He took another $25 off the price to make up the difference. What service! What a deal! And in Delaware, no sales tax or shipping!


Look forward to putting it up in the theater and retiring my Sony VPL-HS20 which has served me very well for six years and two bulbs at close to 3000 each.


-Gary.


----------



## Chad T




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bk* /forum/post/19378101
> 
> 
> I bought an 8350 earlier this week to age my rapidly dimming Epson HC720. Kudos to Epson for maintaining the mount pattern between their many generations of Home Cinema projectors. Basically, the mount holes in the bottom of the HC8350 are in the same position as the HC720, and as a result I was able to re-use my homemade mount without modification.
> 
> 
> I'm projecting onto a 110" diagonal (96x54) Da-Lite Model C Hi-Power screen that I purchased probably 6 years ago when I bought my first projector - an InFocus 4805. That screen has performed very well and continues to function without problems.
> 
> 
> The projector is mounted just above, and slightly to the left, of the primary seating position at about 17 feet from the screen. Very nice to be able to upgrade from the HC720 to the HC8350 without having to make any changes to the mount or mounting position. From the mount position I needed a little vertical lens adjustment and no horizontal adjustment to center the picture on the screen. Basically, I was able to swap projectors and get the 8350 centered on the screen in about 15 minutes. The projector is very quiet and not noticeable when watching TV or movies. If you mute the audio and listen for it you can hear a slight noise from the exhaust, but it's a low pitch sound and not the least bit distracting. Haven't tried operation yet with the iris on so I can't comment on that.
> 
> 
> Out-of-the box the projector looks very nice in natural mode and is noticeably better in all aspects from my HC720 as you might expect. The projector is setup in my our family room with a bank of windows on the right and kitchen to the rear which is why I really need the 8350's lumens to watch sports during the day. With the combination of the Da-Lite High Power screen and 8350's brightness we can watch sports during the day with pretty good success. Obviously, it's not nearly as good a picture as night time movie viewing, but then again it doesn't need to be.
> 
> 
> Overall I'm very happy with the 8350. D2Fine inorganic panel, very bright, good colors, 1080p. What's not to like? I'll give it a more thorough calibration once I get a ~100 hours on the lamp, but as is the colors, brightness, and contrast don't look bad at all.



Hi there. Thanks for the input. We have almost the exact same setup. HC720, High Power, 17' throw distance (actually mine is 16.5'), in the family room, etc.


How many hours are on your HC720? I'm approaching 2,050 hours with the original bulb on mine. I get about 2.0 gain with the High Power in my setup. I started out using Theater Black mode, but switched to Natural at about 1,500 hours or so. I'm still pleased with level of brightness.


Also, how do the black levels of the 8350 compare to the HC720?


----------



## jpolachak

Well I finally pulled the trigger on this projector. After about a million hours of research and waiting. The sale at HHGregg was too good to pass up. I have never owned a projector before. So i got this thing home unpacked it. I set it up on our coffee table in about 10 minutes. All I can say is WOW. This thing is amazing. Even with the lights on from our bar which is about 12 feet behind the projector. The picture is still amazing. For any of you out there on the fence thing is amazing. Now I only need a screen, new receiver, and speakers


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/19379966
> 
> 
> Look forward to putting it up in the theater and retiring my Sony VPL-HS20 which has served me very well for six years and two bulbs at close to 3000 each.
> 
> 
> -Gary.




Gary,


Please please please tell my your impressions as I *TOO* am replacing a VPL-HS20 w/ a 8350
























My HS20 has served me well (118 inch @ like 15 feet) during the night at least. During the day it's a washout of gray








I'm assuming/hoping/toes crossed that 8350 @ 12 feet will blow me out of the water during the day


----------



## Sledgehammer111

Long-time reader, first-time poster.


I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to all of this projector stuff, but I had been (don't laugh) enjoying my little Optoma DV-10 for a year or so before reading and learning a lot from this forum.


I decided I needed an upgrade for my "woman cave," and bought the Epson 8350. Yes, just like everyone else, I'm stunned by the color and the brightness! What a big difference - and I was plenty pleased with my little cheapie projector previously.


As one who doesn't see the DLP "rainbows," I DID unfortunately see a lot of screen-door effect on my little Optoma. Nothing at all with the new Epson - just pure, colorful, bright projector glory. I was also a little worried that the LCD image wouldn't be as sharp as the previous DLP I was used to, but again, this has been a big improvement (at least to me and my non-expert eyes). I'm projecting onto a 150-inch screen from about 25-30 feet away, in eco mode and also at high altitude. PLENTY of brightness, no matter the setting I have the Epson on. I'm one happy camper!


----------



## mike 01hawk

150 @ 25.. gee-zush!!!!!!!


----------



## Frollo

What mounts are people using? Are those inexpensive ones from ebay ok ? I'm leaning towards the epson mount even though it seems a bit pricey.


----------



## jkrepner

Ok, projector on order from HH Gregg's warehouse.


I'm leaning towards an economical acoustically transparent screen. The room is 100% light controlled, with the exception of a white ceiling that will reflect light back on the screen (basement w/ pretty low ceilings).


I think Elite screens looks pretty good. My question is they have two finishes on the AT screens: cinewhite 1.1 and cine gray 1.0.

http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-...1W-A1080&AR=HT 


I'm guessing the gray would help with the black level in that it will reflect back less room light (from white ceiling). Is that sound reasoning? I'm not 100% sure on the screen yet. I'd like a 2.35:1 AT drop down screen if possible, but I'd rather not go broke doing it.


Thanks in advance!

Jeff


----------



## R1Jester

I heard the 4 arm monoprice one worked just well on the 8350. Just ordered my mount today.


----------



## ekscden

Is anyone noticing film judder on this projector more than before? I think because the picture is so good, I'm noticing the blur and judder much more than I used too. Thinking of either getting the 8700UB or the 21000 later.


----------



## scl23enn4m3

I can officially join this club! Well, the 8350 is sitting in my living while I'm halfway around the world for the next two weeks. I can't wait to play with it!


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad T* /forum/post/19380000
> 
> 
> Hi there. Thanks for the input. We have almost the exact same setup. HC720, High Power, 17' throw distance (actually mine is 16.5'), in the family room, etc.
> 
> 
> How many hours are on your HC720? I'm approaching 2,050 hours with the original bulb on mine. I get about 2.0 gain with the High Power in my setup. I started out using Theater Black mode, but switched to Natural at about 1,500 hours or so. I'm still pleased with level of brightness.
> 
> 
> Also, how do the black levels of the 8350 compare to the HC720?



My HC720 has 784 hours. I've found that I prefer a bright picture. Typically, I'd watch sports in either natural or living room modes and movies (at night) in theater.


I haven't watched a movie yet to be able to give an opinion on black levels compared to the HC720, but there's no reason to believe they won't be substantially better.


I have noticed SDE is much less noticeable on the 8350 vs the 720. Originally didn't notice SDE on the 720 until I finally got glasses for my aging eyes







With the 720 I would still watch without glasses and I didn't really notice the SDE (analogous to the old trick of slightly defocussing the projector to reduce apparent SDE). Even with my glasses SDE is not very noticeable on the 8350 from my 16FT seating distance.


----------



## e.mann30

Which low budget screen do people recommend for this projector ? The will be a little light in the room , not completely dark. Im looking for a 100 to 106 inch fixed screen or a painted one. Any recommendations thank you.


----------



## eddieb187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *e.mann30* /forum/post/19382645
> 
> 
> Which low budget screen do people recommend for this projector ? The will be a little light in the room , not completely dark. Im looking for a 100 to 106 inch fixed screen or a painted one. Any recommendations thank you.



Da-Lite has decent affordable screens.

I have a 106" CSR Matte White.

Very happy with it.

http://www.dalite.com/


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19382255
> 
> 
> Is anyone noticing film judder on this projector more than before? I think because the picture is so good, I'm noticing the blur and judder much more than I used too. Thinking of either getting the 8700UB or the 21000 later.



Is this on blu-ray at 24fps or other programming at 60fps.


----------



## Mithrandir28

Hey, guys! Just recieved the projector a few days ago. It is a great machine! However, I do have a question. (This is my third projector so far, but the previous two were DLP. My allegence to DLP has waned after all these years -almost a decade!- because of shoddy color wheels breaking or slowing.)


So... because of the different tech, there is (for me) a slight learning curve. Namely, keystoning. DLP projectors have it and it seems LCD does not.


The projector will be mounted this Tuesday. It is roughly eight to ten feet away from the screen, and it will be mounted at a height a couple inches higher than the center of the screen. (100" diagnal).


How difficult is it to manually keystone an image? As someone who got used to DLP keystoning (and the damaging effects on the image), how is LCD keystoning done?


Sorry if this issue has been brought up already!


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sledgehammer111* /forum/post/19380847
> 
> 
> Long-time reader, first-time poster.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to all of this projector stuff, but I had been (don't laugh) enjoying my little Optoma DV-10 for a year or so before reading and learning a lot from this forum.
> 
> 
> I decided I needed an upgrade for my "woman cave," and bought the Epson 8350. Yes, just like everyone else, I'm stunned by the color and the brightness! What a big difference - and I was plenty pleased with my little cheapie projector previously.
> 
> 
> As one who doesn't see the DLP "rainbows," I DID unfortunately see a lot of screen-door effect on my little Optoma. Nothing at all with the new Epson - just pure, colorful, bright projector glory. I was also a little worried that the LCD image wouldn't be as sharp as the previous DLP I was used to, but again, this has been a big improvement (at least to me and my non-expert eyes). I'm projecting onto a 150-inch screen from about 25-30 feet away, in eco mode and also at high altitude. PLENTY of brightness, no matter the setting I have the Epson on. I'm one happy camper!



Wow. I guess size DOES matter!


----------



## kdog750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19382255
> 
> 
> Is anyone noticing film judder on this projector more than before? I think because the picture is so good, I'm noticing the blur and judder much more than I used too. Thinking of either getting the 8700UB or the 21000 later.



Anyone else that can comment on this? I was ready to order this monday but if there is a lot of motion blur, then no deal. Does the 8700 handle motion interpolation better?


----------



## dhanson

My Optoma HD7100 died today - as soon as it warms up, the lamp goes out. I tried another lamp, same thing. Both lamps were over 2,000 hours, and I wasn't about to buy another lamp for it anyway (at $500), it's time to replace it.


After seeing all the glowing comments on here, I decided to order an 8350, and just placed the order with Epson in Canada.


This will be my first LCD projector. Would anyone know how the black levels on this projector should compare to the Optoma? It had Darkchip 3, with a reported on/off contrast of 5,000:1. The Epson's numbers are much higher, but I understand comparing DLP and LCD specs is a little different.


Am I giving up some contrast with the new projector? Or has the four years since the HD7100 came out improved LCD contrast at least to the point where it could complete with the old Darkchip 3 DLP units?


----------



## jkresh

Mithrandir28 you dont have to keystone (and in fact should not keystone), this has lens shift (one of the major benefits of inexpensive lcd vs dlp, only high end dlps have any kind of lens shift but all (nearly all) lcds do).


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19383416
> 
> 
> Is this on blu-ray at 24fps or other programming at 60fps.



I've only been watching Blu-Rays on it at 24 fps. Seems like the picture is so sharp and crisp that when the camera or objects move you are more aware of the judder and bluriness inherent in film. I've tried all combinations between the BluRay player and the projector, but it's always there.


At first I loved this projector, but now that I've had time to study it, I'm thinking that I'd prefer some frame interpolation to smooth it out.


----------



## asay82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19384019
> 
> 
> I've only been watching Blu-Rays on it at 24 fps. Seems like the picture is so sharp and crisp that when the camera or objects move you are more aware of the judder and bluriness inherent in film. I've tried all combination between the BluRay player and the projector, but it's always there.
> 
> 
> At first I loved this projector, but now that I've had time to study it, I'm thinking that I'd prefer some frame interpolation to smooth it out.




are you using default settings? if yes, could you please try some other settings, like Art's settings and give us feedback. i dont know much in projectors, but could extra brightness/sharpness lead to this? did other people experienced this, with epson 8350 or 8100? experts? answer please.


(just bought this projector by the way, and its certainly important for me to know the answer).


----------



## Ilya




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir28* /forum/post/19383599
> 
> 
> How difficult is it to manually keystone an image?



Since this projector has lens shift (both vertical and horizontal), it really does not require keystone adjustment. If you are installing it off center, do not tilt or angle it toward the center of the screen. Instead, make sure it is always squared, so it faces straight ahead toward the plane of the screen and then use the lens shift to move the image toward the center of the screen. If you notice any keystone issues it simply means the projector is not squared correctly.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir28* /forum/post/19383599
> 
> 
> It is roughly eight to ten feet away from the screen, and it will be mounted at a height a couple inches higher than the center of the screen.



No problem at all! Just mount it parallel to the ceiling. Do not tilt it down.


P.S. I just bought the 8350 on Friday! Thanks to the posters in this thread for the tip about HHGregg!


----------



## Lindros88

What's the motion blur like on this projector? I've never owned or known anybody who has owned a projector. Is the motion blur on the 8350 the same as the motion blur I see on my Panasonic G10 plasma? Or is it more like the motion blur you'd see on a low-end lcd screen?


----------



## songlove

Does Anybody know a good wall mount for 8350?


I only found this one on Amazon.com

Vantage Point CGUPM12-S Universal Front Projector Mount - Silver


but looks like it has only 3 mounting points, and I checked my 8350, it is 4 mounting holes! did anyone use it for 8350 wall mount?


----------



## kdog750

After doing a little more research, this model doesn't have CFI(motion smoothing). The 8500UB and 8700UB do. I'm not sure if its worth the extra money or not going to the 8500 though. I know motion smoothing on LCD TV's are pretty significant.


----------



## spaceace414

Just ordered the 8350 from Projector People. They did a little price matching and knocked a little bit off the Chief RPAU mount as well! I hope to have it by Friday!!!


Screen is all built and looks awesome...now I have to be patient for four/five days until my box gets here!


This projector will replace a Sanyo Z2000 from about three years ago. I know it will be a huge improvement.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekscden* /forum/post/19384019
> 
> 
> I've only been watching Blu-Rays on it at 24 fps. Seems like the picture is so sharp and crisp that when the camera or objects move you are more aware of the judder and bluriness inherent in film. I've tried all combinations between the BluRay player and the projector, but it's always there.
> 
> 
> At first I loved this projector, but now that I've had time to study it, I'm thinking that I'd prefer some frame interpolation to smooth it out.



Try turning off 24fps output on your blu-ray player and see if the judder is smoothed out.


----------



## cubbiesbob

Have been using my 8350 for a week now, it was a replacement for my Optoma HD70. I have to say, right out of the box, the colors are better, the screen is brighter, the blacks are MUCH blacker, and it is easily viewable in my living room with muted daylight coming in the windows. The contrast ratio is crazy good, the colors seem to be perfect and the resolution mind-blowingly crisp. Watched Blue Ray Avatar on it first night. Stunning.


Only a few minor issues:

1- the thing is a beast. I've had smaller luggage. Did miniaturization technology take a giant leap backwards? I went ahead and mounted it on the same mounting from the HD70, and it hasnt come crashing down just yet. Waiting for a catastrophe.


2- Switching between channels that are HD vs non-HD channels, it takes just a tiny bit longer to re-adjust the image (internally), and I don't seem to find a setting to store different aspect ratios for different resolution inputs; so they all run essentially at native, which means your non-HD channels will show up much smaller.


3- the S-video input seems to be kinda buggy with our Wii. Some screens give it what appears to be white lines on the vertical edges of the screen, sometimes worse, some times better. Not a really big issue, but just curios what that might be caused by.


Overall, if you are reading this thread wondering whether or not to get one of these (I got mine from Vis Apex for 1199)- go for it! Just be sure to have something beefy to mount this monster to, or a coffee table or shelf strong enough to hold an anvil.


----------



## dhanson

The 8350 weighs 16.1 pounds. With a steel ceiling mount, the whole thing might weigh 20-25 pounds.


There are drywall anchors rated up to 40 lbs (toggle bolts), but I wouldn't recommend hanging the projector that way. If your mounting position isn't on a stud, put a wooden plate on the ceiling, painted the ceiling color, and screw that into studs. Then mount the projector to the plate.

*cubbiesbob*: Thanks for the comparison to the HD70. I had an HD70 for a short time before getting the 7100. The blacks on the 7100 were a tiny bit better than on the HD70 (Darkchip3 instead of Darkchip 2), but based on what you saw I should be seeing an improvement in black level with the 8350 over the HD7100. That would be very nice.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhanson* /forum/post/19385950
> 
> 
> The 8350 weighs 16.1 pounds. With a steel ceiling mount, the whole thing might weigh 20-25 pounds.
> 
> 
> There are drywall anchors rated up to 40 lbs (toggle bolts), but I wouldn't recommend hanging the projector that way. If your mounting position isn't on a stud, put a wooden plate on the ceiling, painted the ceiling color, and screw that into studs. Then mount the projector to the plate.
> 
> *cubbiesbob*: Thanks for the comparison to the HD70. I had an HD70 for a short time before getting the 7100. The blacks on the 7100 were a tiny bit better than on the HD70 (Darkchip3 instead of Darkchip 2), but based on what you saw I should be seeing an improvement in black level with the 8350 over the HD7100. That would be very nice.



Or you sure about the 16.1 weight .My manual says 22lb.You do need a good mount and it should be mounted to studs'I did the 3/4in plywood plate in between my Basement studs then mounted the mount to it with bolts.I also use a safety wire that is a backup just incase their is a earthquake


----------



## jspursfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19385208
> 
> 
> Just ordered the 8350 from Projector People. They did a little price matching and knocked a little bit off the Chief RPAU mount as well! I hope to have it by Friday!!!
> 
> 
> Screen is all built and looks awesome...now I have to be patient for four/five days until my box gets here!
> 
> 
> This projector will replace a Sanyo Z2000 from about three years ago. I know it will be a huge improvement.



What did they price match to? My sales guy won't go below $1,199.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19385208
> 
> 
> This projector will replace a Sanyo Z2000 from about three years ago. I know it will be a huge improvement.



I just made the same transistion.

It's not a huge jump from the Z2000 but the darker scenes are definitely more clear/brighter and the blacks look great.

Well worth the upgrade though considering the price.


The 8350 is also bigger in size compared to the Z2000.


*"117 screen from ~14.5 ft.


----------



## RobbyTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Smidgerine* /forum/post/19378550
> 
> 
> It really amazes me that some people would spend 1000 bucks on a 46" tv when this is so much bigger and better.



you can get a 50" Plasma for $800 that is 1080P.


talk about exaggeration!


no light control or screen needed, etc....


----------



## reye

I just installed the 8350. And notice the picture on the screen taper at top and bottom. Does anyone know what cause that problem? Please help.


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19386769
> 
> 
> I just installed the 8350. And notice the picture on the screen taper at top and bottom. Does anyone know what cause that problem? Please help.



Is your screen perfectly flat? If you had a bow in the middle of your screen you would see that.


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19386769
> 
> 
> I just installed the 8350. And notice the picture on the screen taper at top and bottom. Does anyone know what cause that problem? Please help.



Not knowing what kind of screen it is doesn't help, but if it's at the top and the bottom maybe there is a bow toward the middle of the screen either on the screen or the wall? I haven't met a wall yet that doesn't have some kind of horrendous bow somewhere.


----------



## jspursfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19385208
> 
> 
> Just ordered the 8350 from Projector People. They did a little price matching and knocked a little bit off the Chief RPAU mount as well! I hope to have it by Friday!!!
> 
> 
> Screen is all built and looks awesome...now I have to be patient for four/five days until my box gets here!
> 
> 
> This projector will replace a Sanyo Z2000 from about three years ago. I know it will be a huge improvement.



Just ordered the 8350 from Projector People as well. They wouldn't price match the HH Gregg deal, but he matched a vendor from the big internet auction site for $1,150







I'll take it!


Projector will be here Wednesday, shortly followed by the Onkyo HT-S5300 HTIB discounted to $399. Hoping this is a good combination for my bonus room. Any comments on the projector/speaker system will be appreciated!


----------



## jpolachak

Would it be acceptable to use this ceiling mount and put 2 of the 4 screws in a stud and the other 2 in drywall anchors? Is that acceptable or should i go for the piece of wood anchored to the stud. OR.... (just thought of this im so slow) mount the wood square to a single stud using 2 screws then mount the mount to the piece of wood?


I plan on getting one of these two mounts.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Sorry for the newbie questions.


----------



## thespacecowboy

Nothing technical to add. Just that some friends were amazed at the quality of this unit. We watched how to train your dragon.


----------



## reye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19386876
> 
> 
> Is your screen perfectly flat? If you had a bow in the middle of your screen you would see that.



Yes, it is perfectly flat.


----------



## kdog750

Ok, I just ordered mine from projectorpeople at 1199. I'm really hesitant though after learning it has no motion interpretation though. I'll test it out and upgrade to the 8700 if the blur and jutter is too much to handle. After you become accustomed to motion smoothing on LCD TV's, it's hard to even watch movies at the theater anymore. I consider the best movie theater image to be far inferior to even low end HD LCD TV's these days.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19387068
> 
> 
> Would it be acceptable to use this ceiling mount and put 2 of the 4 screws in a stud and the other 2 in drywall anchors? Is that acceptable or should i go for the piece of wood anchored to the stud. OR.... (just thought of this im so slow) mount the wood square to a single stud using 2 screws then mount the mount to the piece of wood?
> 
> 
> I plan on getting one of these two mounts.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Sorry for the newbie questions.



yes.. that's how i have it as well.. 2 screws into the stud and the other two on the drywall.. personally, i would be ok if only one screw made it into a stud..

goodluck


p.s. the mounts appear to be a bit small.. i got the omnimount from amazon for about 40 bucks inc. shipping.. very sturdy and fits very well


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19387068
> 
> 
> Would it be acceptable to use this ceiling mount and put 2 of the 4 screws in a stud and the other 2 in drywall anchors? Is that acceptable or should i go for the piece of wood anchored to the stud. OR.... (just thought of this im so slow) mount the wood square to a single stud using 2 screws then mount the mount to the piece of wood?
> 
> 
> I plan on getting one of these two mounts.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Sorry for the newbie questions.



You would need toe 4 hole one for sure as the projector has 4 mounting holes. Also, some have reported that the Monoprice mount doesn't spread wide enough and that they needed to add extension pieces. You might want to shop for another mount that is specifically aimed at the Epson series (try Amazon)


As far as mounting on the ceiling goes, it is OK to use 2 into the stud as long as you use the 2 diagonal holes (mount it in diamond configuration, instead of square.) Then use the drywall anchors for the 2 side ones. The ones in the stud will supply the strength, but the side ones will add stability to keep it from shaking.


----------



## leov36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I consider the best movie theater image to be far inferior to even low end HD LCD TV's these days.



I don't think you've seen the best movie theater image then. You do realize they have more than twice the resolution than a home tv


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leov36* /forum/post/19387735
> 
> 
> I don't think you've seen the best movie theater image then. You do realize they have more than twice the resolution than a home tv



They have to since the resolution is spread out approx 8-10 x the screen size..


There is simply no contest between the image quality of a 110" Screen getting hit with 1080p and 50K:1+ Contrast and that of a 300"+ screen getting hit with 2x / 3x HD Of course it looks good if it's a digital Production....that's why the best Theaters use such. But give up ever trying to show up a Uber Home Unit set up correctly and hitting on a decent Screen. T'aint a'gonna happen no more...no how.


----------



## jbrentd

Couple of questions from a prospective buyer...


I'm looking at going with the 8350 and an Elite CineTension2 retractable 100" or 106" cinegrey 1.0 gain screen (going with a retractable because my kids still watch a lot of Nick and Disney and I don't want to consume that many hours of cartoons on the projector). We will have pretty good control on ambient lighting and the walls and ceiling are going to get a new coat of home theater room friendly paint. Room dimensions are 20.5' x 15' with the screen on one of the 15' walls and the projector mounted on a shelf on the opposite wall. So, it looks like it will be about 18' to 19' throw.


Q 1) Any thoughts on that combination of screen/projector? I'd like to go to a 120" screen, but projectorcentral's calculator says it's out of the optimal range for the image brightness once I bump it past ~107".


Q 2) Anyone know how big my projector shelf needs to be to account for the cables? I'll probably have the power supply, HDMI, computer monitor and the 12v trigger for the projector screen.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobbyTV* /forum/post/19386649
> 
> 
> you can get a 50" Plasma for $800 that is 1080P.
> 
> 
> talk about exaggeration!
> 
> 
> no light control or screen needed, etc....



No OT comparison needed either! But understand this...no 50" Plasma for $800.00 will be a 1 mil:1+ CR unit w/1080p AND 600hz Bus 720p....yeah.


And somehow...someway, even having to settle for some puny arse 100" diagonal image from a 3850 seems just a tid bit more exciting than the "TV" option....at any size or price point.


Fergitabowdit! Your Barkin' up the wrong Leg on this thread! ;P


----------



## the-pred

My present projector is mounted 10'6" from screen. It will be a major issue to move wires and mount. Will the 8350 project a good 106" picture at that distance?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19387994
> 
> 
> My present projector is mounted 10'6" from screen. It will be a major issue to move wires and mount. Will the 8350 project a good 106" picture at that distance?



Yes...you just barely make the cut. It will be a very Bright. dynamic image even on Low Lamp and calibrated for maximum Black levels.


But as I said...just barely. The Lens can be no closer than 10' 6" Period.


----------



## the-pred

So in your opinion I should spend the $150 to get dry wall guys in to fix holes when I move projector back to 15'. What is the perfect distance for this projector in a totally light controlled room?


----------



## allredp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19388181
> 
> 
> So in your opinion I should spend the $150 to get dry wall guys in to fix holes when I move projector back to 15'. What is the perfect distance for this projector in a totally light controlled room?



+1 on what everyone thinks is the ideal distance to screen for a 106" in a bat-cave as per above?


----------



## bhurlbert

I think that I am finally ready to order the 8350. I was looking at the 8700, but could not justify the additional expense (especially to the wife). Have people been happy with Projector People's prices and service?


So, if the top of the screen is ~ 36" from the ceiling (looking at a Seymour H100), where should I mount my projector and which mount? Has anyone used Projector Gear mounts? I think that i will need to figure out some sort of drop to accommodate the higher ceilings.


BTW, I am replacing an Optoma DV10 projector. It came with the projector, which is on an end-table, and a screen and mini-sub-woofer for $500 so, I got my money's worth out of it.


Thanks,

Bill


----------



## watchingf1

Picked up my 8350 from HH Gregg last night. $1299-20%off-$10 email sign up coupon-$75 off $999.00 or more coupon = $955.


Ordered rj-45 ends, crimper, and HDMI extender from monoprice today to try and work with existing cat5e wires that were run by previous home owner,


Now just need to decide on a ceiling mount.


Can't wait to have this up and running.


----------



## Lindros88

Will I get a good image on a 110 inch screen with the projector almost 13 feet away? My room is completely light controlled.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19388181
> 
> 
> So in your opinion I should spend the $150 to get dry wall guys in to fix holes when I move projector back to 15'. What is the perfect distance for this projector in a totally light controlled room?



No....You can move it back 1' so as to avoid opening up the Zoom all the way, but any further increase will only serve to lessen lumen/Fl performance.


Proper calibration along with Low Lamp0 mode should be all that is required.


----------



## active_sport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubbiesbob* /forum/post/19385694
> 
> 
> Have been using my 8350 for a week now, it was a replacement for my Optoma HD70. I have to say, right out of the box, the colors are better, the screen is brighter, the blacks are MUCH blacker, and it is easily viewable in my living room with muted daylight coming in the windows. The contrast ratio is crazy good, the colors seem to be perfect and the resolution mind-blowingly crisp. Watched Blue Ray Avatar on it first night. Stunning.
> 
> 
> Only a few minor issues:
> 
> 1- the thing is a beast. I've had smaller luggage. Did miniaturization technology take a giant leap backwards? I went ahead and mounted it on the same mounting from the HD70, and it hasnt come crashing down just yet. Waiting for a catastrophe.
> 
> 
> 2- Switching between channels that are HD vs non-HD channels, it takes just a tiny bit longer to re-adjust the image (internally), and I don't seem to find a setting to store different aspect ratios for different resolution inputs; so they all run essentially at native, which means your non-HD channels will show up much smaller.
> 
> 3- the S-video input seems to be kinda buggy with our Wii. Some screens give it what appears to be white lines on the vertical edges of the screen, sometimes worse, some times better. Not a really big issue, but just curios what that might be caused by.
> 
> Overall, if you are reading this thread wondering whether or not to get one of these (I got mine from Vis Apex for 1199)- go for it! Just be sure to have something beefy to mount this monster to, or a coffee table or shelf strong enough to hold an anvil.



You should get the Monster Cables Component Cable for your Wii. I bought mine from Toys 'R' Us for around $40.00.


----------



## the-pred

My option is 10'6" or 14'10" which one would be best for 106" screen.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19388480
> 
> 
> Will I get a good image on a 110 inch screen with the projector almost 13 feet away? My room is completely light controlled.



Yeup.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19388577
> 
> 
> My option is 10'6" or 14'10" which one would be best for 106" screen.



I'd go the 14'10".


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *active_sport* /forum/post/19388565
> 
> 
> You should get the Monster Cables Component Cable for your Wii. I bought mine from Toys 'R' Us for around $40.00.



monoprice cables..why pay for the monster name?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19388431
> 
> 
> I think that I am finally ready to order the 8350. I was looking at the 8700, but could not justify the additional expense (especially to the wife). Have people been happy with Projector People's prices and service?
> 
> 
> So, if the top of the screen is ~ 36" from the ceiling (looking at a Seymour H100), where should I mount my projector and which mount? Has anyone used Projector Gear mounts? I think that i will need to figure out some sort of drop to accommodate the higher ceilings.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill



To Bill and all ya all.....


The Chief RPA 168 Dedicated Mount, combined with the Peerless ACC570 round Ceiling Plate is the absolute Bomb. The Chief features a 1-1/2" Threaded Hole in the Center...as does also the Peerless Plate. Between thyem you need only cut the length specific Sched. 40 PCV 1-1/2" pipe, glue two Male Threaded Couplings on the ends, and screw the Pipe extension into both. The 1-1/2" Tube facilitates the passing through of both the HDMI and Power Cords hidden away down the Tube for a clean look that is doubly important if you have a drop over 12"-18" to deal with.


That Mount & Plate is among the finest anywhere to use. It's no EBay Cheapo...no, but it's exactly what it needs to be when you need to get'ter dun, and get'ter dun rightly.


Order them both through Visual Apex (Gloria) and tell her Maurice referred ya. $138 for the dedicated PJ Plate/Mount....$26.00 for the Ceiling Plate


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19388577
> 
> 
> My option is 10'6" or 14'10" which one would be best for 106" screen.




I'll repeat...if you feel you must move it back, only do so 1' 02 ' at most. Retain the advantage a optimally close Throw provides!!!!


If ya move the mounting location at all, refinishing is mandatory, but how about the pain of a considerable relocation of the Cables? Don't aggravate yourself needlessly.


----------



## flexed2death

As others have said, the 4 arm monoprice mount (6528) wasn't long enough. Someone mentioned they used an extension arm, any pictures? Probably not worth the hassle of returning it considering how much it cost. Anyone have any pics of this projector mounted using a Chief RPAU mount?


----------



## watchingf1

Any idea if this mount will work? http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm 


I found links to it searching a thread about mounts for the 8100 (i think)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flexed2death* /forum/post/19388737
> 
> 
> As others have said, the 4 arm monoprice mount (6528) wasn't long enough. Someone mentioned they used an extension arm, any pictures? Probably not worth the hassle of returning it considering how much it cost. Anyone have any pics of this projector mounted using a Chief RPAU mount?



You People are making me Crazy!










The RPA-U costs EXACTLY the same as the dedicated RPA 168, a Mount that comes with a specifically designed Plate that fits onto every Mounting Hole, is Low profile to the extreme, and is just plain "Mo bedder" !!!!!


The 168 is the same RPA that services all 8000 / 9000 series Epsons.


do I really have to repeat this over....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over....................................


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/19388782
> 
> 
> Any idea if this mount will work? http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm
> 
> 
> I found links to it searching a thread about mounts for the 8100 (i think)



If it worked with a 8100, it will work with the 8350.


----------



## Mithrandir28

Thanks for the info, guys! Mounting it tomorrow afternoon, using the same box design another poster has built. Cannot wait to get it off my couch! Haha.


----------



## flexed2death

My concern with getting the RPA 168 is that when I decide to upgrade to another projector that I'll have to invest in another mount. I haven't researched it enough to know if the RPA 168 can be used with other projectors but it seems like a no brainer that the RPAU handles most projectors.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19388832
> 
> 
> You People are making me Crazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RPA-U costs EXACTLY the same as the dedicated RPA 168, a Mount that comes with a specifically designed Plate that fits onto every Mounting Hole, is Low profile to the extreme, and is just plain "Mo bedder" !!!!!
> 
> 
> The 168 is the same RPA that services all 8000 / 9000 series Epsons.
> 
> 
> do I really have to repeat this over....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over....................................


----------



## Shatnerology

Can anyone comment on the perceivable iris action of the Epson 8350? Specifically; I notice that when the projector goes to a pure black frame it takes maybe three seconds or so to completly close the iris. Can anyone confirm the same on their unit?


----------



## pevco

How far back does the 8350 from the screen have to be for a 15 foot wide screen? I have a large room 21 feet by 33 feet.


Thanks,


PV


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pevco* /forum/post/19389119
> 
> 
> How far back does the 8350 from the screen have to be for a 15 foot wide screen? I have a large room 21 feet by 33 feet.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> PV



17'9-37'7"

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm


----------



## ekscden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shatnerology* /forum/post/19389099
> 
> 
> Can anyone comment on the perceivable iris action of the Epson 8350? Specifically; I notice that when the projector goes to a pure black frame it takes maybe three seconds or so to completly close the iris. Can anyone confirm the same on their unit?



Mine does it too. I wish the blacks were as dark as it achieves when it does close down to that level.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shatnerology* /forum/post/19389099
> 
> 
> Can anyone comment on the perceivable iris action of the Epson 8350? Specifically; I notice that when the projector goes to a pure black frame it takes maybe three seconds or so to completly close the iris. Can anyone confirm the same on their unit?



Are you using normal or fast iris?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flexed2death* /forum/post/19389011
> 
> 
> My concern with getting the RPA 168 is that when I decide to upgrade to another projector that I'll have to invest in another mount. I haven't researched it enough to know if the RPA 168 can be used with other projectors but it seems like a no brainer that the RPAU handles most projectors.



So getting another specific Plate for a different PJ....for a whole 'nother $35.00 is gonna ruin the experience?


There are some things worth the small extra expense, and having a specifically designed Plate for a PJ, such a one that allows access for Bulb Replacement without disassembling the Spider Arms...one that allows for a almost instantaneous removal of the PJ off the Box Mount....one that allows for almost instantaneous replacement back onto the Box Mount....one that assures an exact centered position of the Box Mount...and one that allows you to maintain the exact positioning of the Box Mount/PJ during & after removal/replacement.


That's a WHOLE lot of positive items.


I'm not making light of today's economy or peoples right to stretch a Dollar as far as it can go, but fretting about another $35.00 or so to be spent 2 years down the road....?


Another consideration. If you upgrade from a 8350 and you sell it with a dedicated Plate already installed, won't that make it a more attractive proposition....where all one who buys it has to do is purchase the Generic RPA "Box" Mount assembly?


Trying to show such obvious justification for a excellent mounting solution.....Well....it's almost embarrassing to have to write about it.


----------



## Shatnerology




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19389575
> 
> 
> Are you using normal or fast iris?



Using fast iris. Is this delay to full black fairly standard in modern LCD projectors? My old Panasonic PT-AE2000 didn't have such noticable action of the iris, but then the 8350 definitely achieves a significantly deeper black when it does get there.


----------



## intergral

hi everyone.


i installed my projector over the weekend. all i can say is WOW!

even with all the windows and doors open the picture is bright and the colours vibrant. (natural)

This is my first projector and i must say i am never going back to a small screen again! 50" is small by the way!










my 100" HD gray screen will arrive on thursday. it has a gain of 1.0


my projector is 11.5 ft away. my room is partially light controlled. there is a little ambient light in other words.


i use it mainly for playing xbox.


i applied Arts calibration settings


my question is: what settings are best for playing xbox games? Cinema Dynamic Living Room Natural ?


do i need the Auto Iris?


any other advice on setting it up for my xbox would greatly be appreciated


----------



## redline65




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *intergral* /forum/post/19390092
> 
> 
> hi everyone.
> 
> 
> i installed my projector over the weekend. all i can say is WOW!
> 
> even with all the windows and doors open the picture is bright and the colours vibrant. (natural)
> 
> This is my first projector and i must say i am never going back to a small screen again! 50" is small by the way!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 100" HD gray screen will arrive on thursday. it has a gain of 1.0
> 
> 
> my projector is 11.5 ft away. my room is partially light controlled. there is a little ambient light in other words.
> 
> 
> i use it mainly for playing xbox.
> 
> 
> i applied Arts calibration settings
> 
> 
> my question is: what settings are best for playing xbox games? Cinema Dynamic Living Room Natural ?
> 
> 
> do i need the Auto Iris?
> 
> 
> any other advice on setting it up for my xbox would greatly be appreciated



That's cool to hear. I'm in need of a new TV for my game room and I'm tossing around the idea of a projector instead of a 65" plasma. Already got the wife approval for either one, so I'm weighing the pros and cons. Mine would go in my upstairs game room where there are 3 windows and two openings to other rooms, but no direct sunlight on the windows or from other rooms so I'm hoping a projector would be ok during the day. Having a 106" screen vs. a 65" is a big pro for the projector.


----------



## djalap

just purchased 3 of these with friends from hhgregg with the 20% off and $75 coupon!! if anyone in the NJ area still wants one at that price, they are still giving it for that much. Just PM me and ill send you a copy of my receipt and you can take it there.


anywho, need a real basic mount. will the Ceiling Bracket for Projector (Max 22Lbs) - BLACK (item 3874) from monoprice be sufficient? does it fit this projector? i don't want to spend too much on this, as $15 is alot less than $135.


----------



## intergral




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redline65* /forum/post/19390398
> 
> 
> That's cool to hear. I'm in need of a new TV for my game room and I'm tossing around the idea of a projector instead of a 65" plasma. Already got the wife approval for either one, so I'm weighing the pros and cons. Mine would go in my upstairs game room where there are 3 windows and two openings to other rooms, but no direct sunlight on the windows or from other rooms so I'm hoping a projector would be ok during the day. Having a 106" screen vs. a 65" is a big pro for the projector.



too be honest, i wasnt expecting much from a projector. always heard about ambient light being and issue and also contrast levels not being so good


but this projector has blown my mind! the colours are as good as my LCD if not better. it is so amazing.


for me its not even a question about going for anything else!


----------



## usarcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19389781
> 
> 
> So getting another specific Plate for a different PJ....for a whole 'nother $35.00 is gonna ruin the experience?
> 
> 
> There are some things worth the small extra expense, and having a specifically designed Plate for a PJ, such a one that allows access for Bulb Replacement without disassembling the Spider Arms...one that allows for a almost instantaneous removal of the PJ off the Box Mount....one that allows for almost instantaneous replacement back onto the Box Mount....one that assures an exact centered position of the Box Mount...and one that allows you to maintain the exact positioning of the Box Mount/PJ during & after removal/replacement.
> 
> 
> That's a WHOLE lot of positive items.
> 
> 
> I'm not making light of today's economy or peoples right to stretch a Dollar as far as it can go, but fretting about another $35.00 or so to be spent 2 years down the road....?
> 
> 
> Another consideration. If you upgrade from a 8350 and you sell it with a dedicated Plate already installed, won't that make it a more attractive proposition....where all one who buys it has to do is purchase the Generic RPA "Box" Mount assembly?
> 
> 
> Trying to show such obvious justification for a excellent mounting solution.....Well....it's almost embarrassing to have to write about it.



Where can you get the projector specific plate for $35? As far as I can find the SLM168 retails around $100.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usarcher* /forum/post/19390505
> 
> 
> Where can you get the projector specific plate for $35? As far as I can find the SLM168 retails around $100.



What he said.. cheapest I can find the SLB168 plate is like $88.


Also, isn't the RPA168 JUST the 'box' and not the box + plate.


----------



## Shag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19390573
> 
> 
> What he said.. cheapest I can find the SLB168 plate is like $88.
> 
> 
> Also, isn't the RPA168 JUST the 'box' and not the box + plate.



The RPA168 is the "box" and the model-specific plate.


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/19388466
> 
> 
> Picked up my 8350 from HH Gregg last night. $1299-20%off-$10 email sign up coupon-$75 off $999.00 or more coupon = $955.
> 
> 
> Ordered rj-45 ends, crimper, and HDMI extender from monoprice today to try and work with existing cat5e wires that were run by previous home owner,
> 
> 
> Now just need to decide on a ceiling mount.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to have this up and running.



There are no hhgreggs in CT so I asked my sister in Clearwater FL to get one for me. They wouldn't honor the 20% off deal!

What is your location? So how long is this 20% sale supposed to go?


Thanks!

Andy


----------



## sajandrew

I bought the RPAU when I bought my Panny AE900 about 5 years ago. I just upgraded to the 8350, and my mount works perfectly for it as well. I agree with a previous poster...get a mount that will most likely work with your next projector as well as your current projector.


The RPAU has four thumbscrews for taking the projector down, takes about 30 seconds. I haven't looked close enough to determine whether or not I can change the bulb without removing the mounting plate...but if the bulb is rated for 4000 hours, how often do you figure you'll be changing bulbs?


The initial cost of the RPAU with the ceiling plate and down tube were hard to swallow, but as it looks like I'll never have to buy another one, I am very happy with it.


----------



## djalap




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andy238* /forum/post/19390620
> 
> 
> There are no hhgreggs in CT so I asked my sister in Clearwater FL to get one for me. They wouldn't honor the 20% off deal!
> 
> What is your location? So how long is this 20% sale supposed to go?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Andy



lawrenceville, nj. i think it ended on saturday, but my cousin went and bought one yday when he went to pick up mine, and they gave it to him at that price.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19390573
> 
> 
> What he said.. cheapest I can find the SLB168 plate is like $88.
> 
> 
> Also, isn't the RPA168 JUST the 'box' and not the box + plate.



Last time I ordered a replacement Plate that was the cost. I sure as crao don't pay "retail" Retail on a RPA 168 is way over $200.00 I have paid $69-70.00 for one in a pinch though. Now yes, I do deal with the sources I get such items from repeatedly, and the latter is not something I have to suggest to many AVS'ers or even worry about myself that often (...2 years or more between replacements hasn't presented many issues...until now...)


This ain't the DIY Screen Forum, so I guess I'm taken a bit aback at people worrying about the effective value of a excellent Mount option as pertains to an additional expense a couple years down the road. I do suppose though that when a PJ's price drops so far, that the difference gets more "sensitive".


That's what DIY Screens was/is all about. When PJs were $3-5k and Screens came in at an average of $1.5k, those who spent a lot for the PJ balked at spending 1/2 as much for a Screen.


The RPA 168 is just over 1/10th as much as a 8350 ($1300.00) but the real reason I go on about it is it's qualities and conveniences, not it's cost. If you deal with varied installation and the different PJs and all the other install related things your faced with, such a versital option becomes quite obvious.


I don't need to go on too much how many people who are buying these larger 1080p PJs often find they cannot either make a Universal Mount's Spider Legs reach the holes, or at best can only do a "3 legged Dog" install. Sometimes the Mount must even be off center! That might have been Ok for a 12-14 lb machine, but a 25 lb'er presents a more problematical concern.


Buck up...ante up...get one...and you'll take all this pressure off me and become a staunch advocate as well.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sajandrew* /forum/post/19390622
> 
> 
> I bought the RPAU when I bought my Panny AE900 about 5 years ago. I just upgraded to the 8350, and my mount works perfectly for it as well. I agree with a previous poster...get a mount that will most likely work with your next projector as well as your current projector.
> 
> 
> The initial cost of the RPAU with the ceiling plate and down tube were hard to swallow, but as it looks like I'll never have to buy another one, I am very happy with it.



This post presents a good argument for the RPU, no doubt....but if I'm not mistaken the Panny only required a 3 point install, so unless the Poster saved a "Spider Arm" for the last 5 years, he only used 3 of the 4 mounting holes.


Which admittedly is OK if the Mount is tightened down securely, as the RPU and it's hardware are quite beefy anyway.


But as far as the whole assembly being absolutely optimal and the easiest, most effective one to install...and good looking to boot....no contest with the RPA series.


----------



## redline65




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19389261
> 
> 
> 17'9-37'7"
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm



Question about this calculator... when it shows a 14' 4" throw range for a 106" screen (16:9 aspect ratio), is that the optimal throw distance for the projector to give the best picture quality? The range is pretty wide at 10' 4" to 22' 1", so I'm wondering what 14' 4" does for you rather than, say, 10' 6"?


----------



## jpolachak

I agree with Integral. on this. I too had been skeptical of how well the projector will work with ambient light. I must admit too I am completely blown away by what it can do. My room is 28' long by 16'wide. I have the projector just sitting now on my bar counter at 22'. Its throwing a 130" picture quite awesome against my light grey wall. This is just normal paint no DIY special sauce that MM does. I cannot image what kind of benefits I will get with a real DIY screen or even a cheap screen. I have a Mitsubishi LCD and this thing is just amazing in the picture quality.


I think you hit the nail on the head as far as mounts go MM. This is exactly the issue I have right now. I spent 1k on the PJ. I will not spend 20% of that cost on a mount. I know it has a lot of great added features. But that 20% cost is a hard pill to swallow. One that could be made if I wasn't married with kids.


----------



## usarcher

MississippiMan, the only reason why I went the universal route was I got the RPMAU mount at a great price and got it fast. My 8700ub should be here tomorrow and I wanted to be able to put it right up, the 168 specific mount would have taken another week or two. After reading your posts I decide I might as well order the plate if it was only $35. I'll still probably buy at the $100 price point later on but wouldn't mind saving the rest for some blu rays.


----------



## mike 01hawk

Mississippi...


Guess some background info was in order.


I already have an RPA from my previous projector (Sonly VPL-HS20). I'm trying to go the cheapest route to hook my old RPA up to my 8350.


So it looks like I have 3 options:


1) Suck it up and spend the $88 clams on a friggen piece of $1 powder coated metal plate (UGH! RIPOFF!!!







)


2) Go DIY with a Pine Wood Board or something to hook up the 8350 to the "box"


3) Now that I've found out the RPA168 comes w/ the box and plate I'll split the cost of the RPA168 w/ the person that bought my VPL-HS20. This way we both get Chief Mounts at a "discounted" price.


----------



## jpolachak

Here are my pics of my wall/environment. These were just taken with my crappy iphone. So take them with a grain of salt. The screen shot is by no means even close to accurate. Its a million percent better in person.











and











screen is roughly 130" and with a 22' throw.


----------



## jkrepner

SB1, did you figure out your HP screen issue yet? I have the 8350 on order and I'm currently thinking about going HP (though I change my mind almost by the minute thinking about these darn screens). I'd likely get the Da-lite HP 106" diag screen since my basement installation won't allow me to go taller. I'm also considering a scope screen since I have the width, but that creates another set of challenges.


With the HP screen I'd dial the brightness back on the projector and the room is dark. The width is about 15' and length about 25'. Did you experience severe drop in brightness once out of the viewing cone? I'd guess that the edges of the sofa would be about 45 degrees off center with most of the viewing area within the 20-30 degree range. Did you ever get the black level restored or do you miss your temp blackout cloth?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## greg1292




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19391094
> 
> 
> Here are my pics of my wall/environment. These were just taken with my crappy iphone. So take them with a grain of salt. The screen shot is by no means even close to accurate. Its a million percent better in person.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> screen is roughly 130" and with a 22' throw.



Nice IPIC! This projector seems like the best deal going! Was that shot

in HI LAMP mode? and is on the painted wall?


----------



## sajandrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19390780
> 
> 
> 
> This post presents a good argument for the RPU, no doubt....but if I'm not mistaken the Panny only required a 3 point install, so unless the Poster saved a "Spider Arm" for the last 5 years, he only used 3 of the 4 mounting holes.
> 
> 
> Which admittedly is OK if the Mount is tightened down securely, as the RPU and it's hardware are quite beefy anyway.
> 
> 
> But as far as the whole assembly being absolutely optimal and the easiest, most effective one to install...and good looking to boot....no contest with the RPA series.



The Panny AE900 was a 4 point install...they were really close together...was a bit of a puzzle getting the arms to all contact a mount point, but it worked. Much easier on the 8350.


----------



## SkaterVideoGuy

Hi folks,


Haven't been on this site for the better part of 2 yrs, since I used it to figure out my first Projector purchase. Been rescaning this section for Upgrading.


I've got the HV30 (got it from Best Buy), and have been very pleased with it. I'm using a Panoview Gray Wolf II - 106" pull down screen against a Flat Black wall, and in a fully lite controled room. My seating is 12 to 13' from the screen. I use a custom setup Video Tri-Pod to mount the HV30 - just behind and above the seating, so I can put the PJ at what ever optimal distance and height that is required.


I've pretty much decided that the 8350 is the most cost effective upgrade for my situation. Now my problem is figuring out WHO to get it from.


The Vendors I'm considering are: A/V Science, Projector People, Visual Apex, Projector Central, and Cleveland Plasma. All seem to be well rated and used by folks on here. I just don't know how to choose between them ???? I do want to use the best available at the best cost. Also, I'm in the middle of the USA - but I don't know if that makes any difference ??


The other issue would be gettin an "Extended Warranty" - a good idea ???


Thanks in advance for any advice.


Harold


----------



## jpolachak

Greg1292 this picture was taken of the projector in dynamic mode. No adjustments were made. The wall is painted. I think its a light grey even though my wife says its a type of beige. I can probably dig up a leftover paint can if you interested in actual color(I kinda am). The room was painted long before any thought of a home theater setup with a projector. Worked out well though.


----------



## pauleyc

I just walked in to HHGreg (10/26) and noticed the sale price of $1199. I asked if it was recently on sale and he mentioned the 20% deal. He said he could ask if he could still do it, so I said sure. They had one in stock (Sterling VA) and he rang it up as $1199 - 20% = $960. I don't even know if I want to keep it, but wasn't going to leave without taking it home (can always return it). I heard the manager giving him an earful as I walked away about it being off MSRP not the sale price .. but that wasn't my problem. Nice guy though.


Anyway - Replacing a 6 yr old Sony HS20 that has been mentioned here a couple of times. I guessing its a sizable upgrade from that projector. I originally paid $3200 and its hard to believe a $960 projector will beat it, but I know its long in the tooth. I have 3 kids now (since the HS20) and there's no way I will get the green light for another $3k PJ. What's really sad is that my HS20 only has 300 hrs on it ... did I mention I had 3 kids?


Anyway - Hope to be blown away. What's the used market for a HS20?


Chad


----------



## neo991lb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/19391675
> 
> 
> I just walked in to HHGreg (10/26) and noticed the sale price of $1199. I asked if it was recently on sale and he mentioned the 20% deal. He said he could ask if he could still do it, so I said sure. They had one in stock (Sterling VA) and he rang it up as $1199 - 20% = $960. I don't even know if I want to keep it, but wasn't going to leave without taking it home (can always return it). I heard the manager giving him an earful as I walked away about it being off MSRP not the sale price .. but that wasn't my problem. Nice guy though.
> 
> 
> Anyway - Replacing a 6 yr old Sony HS20 that has been mentioned here a couple of times. I guessing its a sizable upgrade from that projector. I originally paid $3200 and its hard to believe a $960 projector will beat it, but I know its long in the tooth. I have 3 kids now (since the HS20) and there's no way I will get the green light for another $3k PJ. What's really sad is that my HS20 only has 300 hrs on it ... did I mention I had 3 kids?
> 
> 
> Anyway - Hope to be blown away. What's the used market for a HS20?
> 
> 
> Chad



Lucky! I wish I could find a place to purchase the 8350 for 1199, much less 960!


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SkaterVideoGuy* /forum/post/19391502
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> Haven't been on this site for the better part of 2 yrs, since I used it to figure out my first Projector purchase. Been rescaning this section for Upgrading.
> 
> 
> I've got the HV30 (got it from Best Buy), and have been very pleased with it. I'm using a Panoview Gray Wolf II - 106" pull down screen against a Flat Black wall, and in a fully lite controled room. My seating is 12 to 13' from the screen. I use a custom setup Video Tri-Pod to mount the HV30 - just behind and above the seating, so I can put the PJ at what ever optimal distance and height that is required.
> 
> 
> I've pretty much decided that the 8350 is the most cost effective upgrade for my situation. Now my problem is figuring out WHO to get it from.
> 
> 
> The Vendors I'm considering are: A/V Science, Projector People, Visual Apex, Projector Central, and Cleveland Plasma. All seem to be well rated and used by folks on here. I just don't know how to choose between them ???? I do want to use the best available at the best cost. Also, I'm in the middle of the USA - but I don't know if that makes any difference ??
> 
> 
> The other issue would be gettin an "Extended Warranty" - a good idea ???
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
> 
> 
> Harold



I have bought two projectors from Projector People and I have nothing but good things to say about them. They are located in Tampa, Florida...so shipping should not take too long. It is taking four days for me to get my 8350 and I am in Denver.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19391094
> 
> 
> Here are my pics of my wall/environment. These were just taken with my crappy iphone. So take them with a grain of salt. The screen shot is by no means even close to accurate. Its a million percent better in person.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> screen is roughly 130" and with a 22' throw.




i dont see any annoying black bars. Is this is in anamorphic lens option?


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neo991lb* /forum/post/19391696
> 
> 
> Lucky! I wish I could find a place to purchase the 8350 for 1199, much less 960!



You can find it online...Projector People, Visualapex, or Cleveland Plasma...and all are forum sponsors.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/19391675
> 
> 
> What's the used market for a HS20?



How's the market? Not good. LoL.


I sold mine w/ 800 hours to a friend for $330. I had started out @ $400, but got chipped away till $330.


You can get brand new projectors w/ same/better specs for sub $700. So to look enticing to a potential buyer, you're gonna have to take a severe cut


----------



## mickolu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19391702
> 
> 
> I have bought two projectors from Projector People and I have nothing but good things to say about them. They are located in Tampa, Florida...so shipping should not take too long. It is taking four days for me to get my 8350 and I am in Denver.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19391718
> 
> 
> You can find it online...Projector People, Visualapex, or Cleveland Plasma...and all are forum sponsors.



Got mine from Visual Apex, $1199, shipped fast, I had it in 3 days. I've bought other stuff from them too, good service.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redline65* /forum/post/19390835
> 
> 
> Question about this calculator... when it shows a *14' 4" throw range for a 106" screen (16:9 aspect ratio), is that the optimal throw distance for the projector to give the best picture quality?* The range is pretty wide at 10' 4" to 22' 1", so I'm wondering what 14' 4" does for you rather than, say, 10' 6"?



Depends on who you ask.










I am of the mindset that the middle of the zoom range is optimal and I *think* that's what the projector calculator defaults to when you are inputting a screen size.


But there are so many variables involved, such as seating distance, ambient light, screen size, screen gain, etc. etc.


I'll let others more knowledgeable than me answer though.


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19391782
> 
> 
> 
> I sold mine w/ 800 hours to a friend for $330. I had started out @ $400, but got chipped away till $330.



I was guessing ~$400, so I'm not surprised.


Do you have an 8350? How different than the Sony HS20? All +'s no -'s ...


----------



## greg1292




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19391520
> 
> 
> Greg1292 this picture was taken of the projector in dynamic mode. No adjustments were made. The wall is painted. I think its a light grey even though my wife says its a type of beige. I can probably dig up a leftover paint can if you interested in actual color(I kinda am). The room was painted long before any thought of a home theater setup with a projector. Worked out well though.



Not so much the color of paint I use a Da_lite HP screen. Was amazed

at the amount of pop off of wall paint. Mississippi must be drooling on

this budget king with his screen technology


----------



## sushyad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neo991lb* /forum/post/19391696
> 
> 
> Lucky! I wish I could find a place to purchase the 8350 for 1199, much less 960!



neo991lb, try J&R, I got one earlier today and with GEICO10 coupon, it took additional 10 bucks off.


----------



## flyingsquirrel

Upgrading from an AE2000. I do not see a significant improvement in picture quality for most content. My AE2000 has about 4000 hours and my second lamp is just over 2000 hrs. I'm still considering just buying a new lamp for the AE2000 and returning the 8350 to HHGregg. I'm curious what others are experiencing that had a Panasonic AE2000/3000/4000 and have purchased/evaluated the 8350. For which type content do you see obvious improvement in PQ. I would add that the AE2000 was my first projector and has been trouble-free with the exception of a dust blob that I needed to clear. My room is a dedicated theater with total light control.


----------



## jtdman

I sent an email to HHgreg customer service and got this....For all you SOB"s that got this price... I hate you.







I don't have one of these stores around on the west coast.


Dear Valued Customer,


Thank you for your inquiry. We appreciate your interest.


We are often able to offer lower prices in the store than online, due to our contract with manufacturers. Manufacturers will often impose a lower limit on our pricing online. We cannot go beneath this floor.


The Epson HC8350 is in the television section of our website, but is not considered to be a television. These are projectors. At this time, the unit is selling in our stores for $1199.97.


At the time you saw the ad, the price of the unit may well have been 20% off the SRP, but at this time, the ad has expired and we are unable to verify.


If you are still interested in this unit, please visit your local store in the next week, and bring a copy of this email. If the unit was on sale for 20% off SRP, the store managers will be happy to honor the sale price for you, as a one time offer.


This offer will remain open through Sunday, October 31st, 2010.


Anyone want to print out my email and ship me a unit? haaha


----------



## flexed2death

You've sold me. As I stated I hadn't really done any research on custom mounts versus universal mounts but if you're saying that a plate to fit a different projector is only $35 than that's a no brainer for me.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19389781
> 
> 
> So getting another specific Plate for a different PJ....for a whole 'nother $35.00 is gonna ruin the experience?
> 
> 
> There are some things worth the small extra expense, and having a specifically designed Plate for a PJ, such a one that allows access for Bulb Replacement without disassembling the Spider Arms...one that allows for a almost instantaneous removal of the PJ off the Box Mount....one that allows for almost instantaneous replacement back onto the Box Mount....one that assures an exact centered position of the Box Mount...and one that allows you to maintain the exact positioning of the Box Mount/PJ during & after removal/replacement.
> 
> 
> That's a WHOLE lot of positive items.
> 
> 
> I'm not making light of today's economy or peoples right to stretch a Dollar as far as it can go, but fretting about another $35.00 or so to be spent 2 years down the road....?
> 
> 
> Another consideration. If you upgrade from a 8350 and you sell it with a dedicated Plate already installed, won't that make it a more attractive proposition....where all one who buys it has to do is purchase the Generic RPA "Box" Mount assembly?
> 
> 
> Trying to show such obvious justification for a excellent mounting solution.....Well....it's almost embarrassing to have to write about it.


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/19391675
> 
> 
> I just walked in to HHGreg (10/26) and noticed the sale price of $1199. I asked if it was recently on sale and he mentioned the 20% deal. He said he could ask if he could still do it, so I said sure. They had one in stock (Sterling VA) and he rang it up as $1199 - 20% = $960. I don't even know if I want to keep it, but wasn't going to leave without taking it home (can always return it). I heard the manager giving him an earful as I walked away about it being off MSRP not the sale price .. but that wasn't my problem. Nice guy though.
> 
> 
> Anyway - Replacing a 6 yr old Sony HS20 that has been mentioned here a couple of times. I guessing its a sizable upgrade from that projector. I originally paid $3200 and its hard to believe a $960 projector will beat it, but I know its long in the tooth. I have 3 kids now (since the HS20) and there's no way I will get the green light for another $3k PJ. What's really sad is that my HS20 only has 300 hrs on it ... did I mention I had 3 kids?
> 
> 
> Anyway - Hope to be blown away. What's the used market for a HS20?
> 
> 
> Chad




Ya lucky bum...


----------



## Shatnerology




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingsquirrel* /forum/post/19392537
> 
> 
> Upgrading from an AE2000. I do not see a significant improvement in picture quality for most content. My AE2000 has about 4000 hours and my second lamp is just over 2000 hrs. I'm still considering just buying a new lamp for the AE2000 and returning the 8350 to HHGregg. I'm curious what others are experiencing that had a Panasonic AE2000/3000/4000 and have purchased/evaluated the 8350. For which type content do you see obvious improvement in PQ. I would add that the AE2000 was my first projector and has been trouble-free with the exception of a dust blob that I needed to clear. My room is a dedicated theater with total light control.



I've had both the AE2000 and the Epson 8350. I would say that the Epson does pull away a bit in terms of black levels and image sharpness. You should notice a difference in darker scenes (such as night-time/space scenes and the like).


I do agree that there isn't a huge difference between the two overall though.


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg1292* /forum/post/19392340
> 
> 
> Not so much the color of paint I use a Da_lite HP screen. Was amazed
> 
> at the amount of pop off of wall paint. Mississippi must be drooling on
> 
> this budget king with his screen technology



What is the diagonal size or your screen and what is the distance of your projector from it?


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shatnerology* /forum/post/19394849
> 
> 
> I've had both the AE2000 and the Epson 8350. I would say that the Epson does pull away a bit in terms of black levels and image sharpness. You should notice a difference in darker scenes (such as night-time/space scenes and the like).
> 
> 
> I do agree that there isn't a huge difference between the two overall though.



So the 8350 has slightly better black level performance than the AE2000?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19395119
> 
> 
> So the 8350 has slightly better black level performance than the AE2000?



Yes....and:
Sharper Image (vs Panny's SmoothScreen)
Better Color "out of the Box" and in the brightest Modes.
More brightness by a leap.
Longer Focal length
Longer bulb Life
It's in Production, and less expensive by almost $900.00 than it's current Panny counterpart.


Not "Huge" but more than enough to justify choosing it over the newer Panny


----------



## r1dude57

So I am assuming that this would be a huge upgrade over my HC720 in terms of brightness and black levels?


----------



## greg1292




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19394886
> 
> 
> What is the diagonal size or your screen and what is the distance of your projector from it?



11FT DIAGONAL 12 FOOT BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JVC RS1. I sell these projectors

and the 8350 is a steal. Pixel structure wise the Epson looks best at 10ft diagonal

from my distance.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg1292* /forum/post/19395222
> 
> 
> 11FT DIAGONAL 12 FOOT BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JVC RS1. I sell these projectors
> 
> and the 8350 is a steal. Pixel structure wise the Epson looks best at 10ft diagonal
> 
> from my distance.



I love a good 1.1 to 1 Distance-to-Width ratio. IMAX territory.









Immerse me, baby!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19395229
> 
> 
> I love a good 1.1 to 1 Distance-to-Width ratio. IMAX territory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Immerse me, baby!



I have been debating whether or not to get a 120" screen (alternative is 106") for my near future 8350 purchase. Seating will be 12-15 ft back. I was afraid it might be too big, but I like immersion too. Thanks for your opinion. It makes me lean towards the 120" more, but another problem is that the projector has to be mounted fairly low and at 13 ft.

I'm concerned that standing up in the seating area will block the picture significantly at 120". A pity because I also intended to have an HD Wii equivalent there one day.


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg1292* /forum/post/19395222
> 
> 
> 11FT DIAGONAL 12 FOOT BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JVC RS1. I sell these projectors
> 
> and the 8350 is a steal. Pixel structure wise the Epson looks best at 10ft diagonal
> 
> from my distance.



I just ordered one. I have a 92" Da-Lite Matte white on which I will be projecting from 17'. I will be watching at night but I have white walls and ceiling (ceiling is at 10' and top of screen is at about 6'6"). My back wall is a half wall so probably won't get much reflection from kitchen cabinets etc from about 38' away. I am concerned about the reflection from ceiling, light carpet, and sidewalls.


Two questions: Should eco mode in cinema be bright enough for movies at night? If I were to buy a 92" Da-lite high power @ 2.8 gain to reject light from walls/floor/ceiling would I fry my retinas? The reason I use the Da-lite B 92" is because it fits my setup exactly.


----------



## Mithrandir28

Hey, guys! Just an update. The projector is mounted. Looks great, however, all is not perfect. There are a few issues that are of concern to me.


As this is my third projector, I've had a 16:9 screen for awhile. It's a great screen I've made myself and the first two (DLP) projectors fit it perfectly, down to the last bit of fabric. Now, the Epson cannot seem to fit the screen, and the image is slightly pillarboxed on the left and right by a few inches. Vertically, it is fine, however.


Has anyone else had this issue? Should I send it back?-- because it seems to fall a bit short of 16:9.


----------



## Shatnerology




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19395186
> 
> 
> Yes....and:
> Sharper Image (vs Panny's SmoothScreen)
> Better Color "out of the Box" and in the brightest Modes.
> More brightness by a leap.
> Longer Focal length
> Longer bulb Life
> It's in Production, and less expensive by almost $900.00 than it's current Panny counterpart.
> 
> 
> Not "Huge" but more than enough to justify choosing it over the newer Panny



Yes all good points. It's great in its dynamic mode, far brighter and more accurate than what the AE2000 could do.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir28* /forum/post/19395418
> 
> 
> Hey, guys! Just an update. The projector is mounted. Looks great, however, all is not perfect. There are a few issues that are of concern to me.
> 
> 
> As this is my third projector, I've had a 16:9 screen for awhile. It's a great screen I've made myself and the first two (DLP) projectors fit it perfectly, down to the last bit of fabric. Now, the Epson cannot seem to fit the screen, and the image is slightly pillarboxed on the left and right by a few inches. Vertically, it is fine, however.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? Should I send it back?-- because it seems to fall a bit short of 16:9.



The epson should fit any size screen with it specs and len shift ect.You just have something wrong.You made your screen the wrong size'or your placement is wrong or something.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/19395850
> 
> 
> The epson should fit any size screen with it specs and len shift ect.You just have something wrong.You made your screen the wrong size'or your placement is wrong or something.



No, he is saying that his projector is displaying a 15:9 image instead of a 16:9 image.


All I can say is that my projector is a perfect fit on a commercial 16:9 screen.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir28* /forum/post/19395418
> 
> 
> Hey, guys! Just an update. The projector is mounted. Looks great, however, all is not perfect. There are a few issues that are of concern to me.
> 
> 
> As this is my third projector, I've had a 16:9 screen for awhile. It's a great screen I've made myself and the first two (DLP) projectors fit it perfectly, down to the last bit of fabric. Now, the Epson cannot seem to fit the screen, and the image is slightly pillarboxed on the left and right by a few inches. Vertically, it is fine, however.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? Should I send it back?-- because it seems to fall a bit short of 16:9.



How much R & L space is there. 1 inch/ more...less?


Keep in mind that setting the Pj for formatting within a Screen's border using the start up screen can leave you short during actual content. Things vary...especially between PJs with different lenses.


I've encountered that issue before switching from DLP to LCD...and even between different DLPs and different LCDs as well. Do enough of 'em and you'll see all sorts of small irregularities.


But nothing I've encountered could not be accommodated by use of a tiny bit of Over Scan...Zoom... and/or the masking provided by a Good Velvet border.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19395268
> 
> 
> I have been debating whether or not to get a 120" screen (alternative is 106") for my near future 8350 purchase. Seating will be 12-15 ft back. I was afraid it might be too big, but I like immersion too. Thanks for your opinion. It makes me lean towards the 120" more, but another problem is that the projector has to be mounted fairly low and at 13 ft.
> 
> I'm concerned that standing up in the seating area will block the picture significantly at 120". A pity because I also intended to have an HD Wii equivalent there one day.



Has someone confirmed that you can get 120" from 13ft away?



If possible, get the projector first and project a 120" screen on the wall in which the screen will be placed and watch some scenes from a movie.


I went from 100" to 117" and sit about 12ft away and it's about perfect for my personal taste.

A 120" was just a little to big for my personal taste so I had a custom 117" screen made.


Also keep in mind the most movies will not be 16:9 and fill the entire screen so the entire screen will not be filled and have about 10 inches of black bars above and below the picture.


----------



## RobbyTV

1080 UB is a better projector for less money.


a refurb... but with a 2 year warranty.


so why would anybody want a projector with significantly less black levels is beyond me... unless you get a major discount on the 8350, the 1080UB is a better bang for the buck.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19396293
> 
> 
> Has someone confirmed that you can get 120" from 13ft away?
> 
> 
> 
> If possible, get the projector first and project a 120" screen on the wall in which the screen will be placed and watch some scenes from a movie.
> 
> 
> I went from 100" to 117" and sit about 12ft away and it's about perfect for my personal taste.
> 
> A 120" was just a little to big for my personal taste so I had a custom 117" screen made.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind the most movies will not be 16:9 and fill the entire screen so the entire screen will not be filled and have about 10 inches of black bars above and below the picture.



Really? 3" was just too big eh?










Confirmed 120" at 13'? You can go as low as 11'9" according to the calculator. 13' shouldn't be a problem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newk2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just ordered one. I have a 92" Da-Lite Matte white on which I will be projecting from 17'.



Why so small? Is your seating area real close?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobbyTV* /forum/post/19396302
> 
> 
> 1080 UB is a better projector for less money.
> 
> 
> a refurb... but with a 2 year warranty.
> 
> 
> so why would anybody want a projector with significantly less black levels is beyond me... unless you get a major discount on the 8350, the 1080UB is a better bang for the buck.




Yeah? Sez who?










Not even. Far less bright...the panels will deteriorate (...and they might not/most likely were not replaced...) ...and it does not equal the 8350 in color correctness. The 1080ub also had /has the same 50K:1 dynamic contrast, but only with significantly less lumens. and the Iris is much noisier and slower too.


Tit for tat-ing over used @ under 1k vs New at $1100.00 is pretty redundant when the advantages and upgrades on the newer PJ are so many, and there is a Warranty-length bulb replacement...something which BTW is not offered with the Refurb and Bulb issues were a major pain with the 1080ub.


----------



## DS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jtdman* /forum/post/19393042
> 
> 
> I sent an email to HHgreg customer service and got this....For all you SOB"s that got this price... I hate you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have one of these stores around on the west coast.
> 
> 
> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> 
> Thank you for your inquiry. We appreciate your interest.
> 
> 
> We are often able to offer lower prices in the store than online, due to our contract with manufacturers. Manufacturers will often impose a lower limit on our pricing online. We cannot go beneath this floor.
> 
> 
> The Epson HC8350 is in the television section of our website, but is not considered to be a television. These are projectors. At this time, the unit is selling in our stores for $1199.97.
> 
> 
> At the time you saw the ad, the price of the unit may well have been 20% off the SRP, but at this time, the ad has expired and we are unable to verify.
> 
> 
> If you are still interested in this unit, please visit your local store in the next week, and bring a copy of this email. If the unit was on sale for 20% off SRP, the store managers will be happy to honor the sale price for you, as a one time offer.
> 
> 
> This offer will remain open through Sunday, October 31st, 2010.
> 
> 
> Anyone want to print out my email and ship me a unit? haaha



------------------


I'd like to go buy one at the NJ store, which is like 50 miles from NYC. Anyone else in the area want to see if we can still get the 20% off deal and pick it up on Saturday?


----------



## RobbyTV

thanks for posting this because I almost bought a 1080UB.


overall color accuracy is more important than black levels.


I was also looking at the HC 720 because of the refurb price.


sorry for jumping to conclusions










I wonder how the 8350 would compare to the HC720's black levels... about the same?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19396643
> 
> 
> Yeah? Sez who?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even. Far less bright...the panels will deteriorate (...and they might not/most likely were not replaced...) ...and it does not equal the 8350 in color correctness. The 1080ub also had /has the same 50K:1 dynamic contrast, but only with significantly less lumens. and the Iris is much noisier and slower too.
> 
> 
> Tit for tat-ing over used @ under 1k vs New at $1100.00 is pretty redundant when the advantages and upgrades on the newer PJ are so many, and there is a Warranty-length bulb replacement...something which BTW is not offered with the Refurb and Bulb issues were a major pain with the 1080ub.


----------



## vaguy28

I've been a lurker for quite sometime since I've been wanting to jump into the HD realm but have been on the fence. So, I finally made the leap into HD this past weekend and took advantage of the HHGregg offer.


I've been reading this forum and doing some online research and have a list of questions which I'd appreciate answers for before I start *accessorizing* the projector







Please forgive me if some of these seem rudimentary:



-Since I have a rather sizeable collection of standard definition DVDs - and many are imported foreign films which won't see a Blu-ray release anytime soon - Upscaling is a critical component for me. I know most Blu-ray players have an upscaling capability but was wondering if something like an Oppo Blu-ray player will offer a dramatic improvement in upscaling vs a sub-$200 player from Samsung or Sony?


-I was at the Da-lite website researching screen types and materials. I noticed that their Matte White has a 1.0 gain and their High-Contrast Matte White has a 1.1 gain. Does 0.1 really make that much of a difference in the quality of the image projected? Will a 1.5 gain be excessive in a dark room/night viewing and cause my eyeballs to melt or make for an uncomfortable viewing?


-Is 110" diagonal screen the optimal size to use with this projector? Would I lose sharpness/contrast, black, etc by going to 120"? Does a high gain screen help when projecting a larger image?


-Haven't heard anyone mention pull-down or motorized screens. Are they not recommended because they're not affixed to a flat surface? Anybody have any experience with them and can provide input?


-Will using HDMI 1.4 vs. 1.3 provide a significant improvement in the image projected?


And just to pre-empt the usual questions, I will be using the projector for movie viewing mostly and occasionally sports during the day. I have a partially-controlled ambient light during the day. the depth of my Family Room is 17 feet.


My apologies for the long-winded post.....and thanks for all the useful information provided thus far.


Cheers!


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19396600
> 
> 
> Really? 3" was just too big eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed 120" at 13'? You can go as low as 11'9" according to the calculator. 13' shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why so small? Is your seating area real close?



9', but as I said before, The reason I use the Da-lite B 92" is because it fits my setup exactly.


----------



## jandawil

Another consideration before I seriously look into getting this PJ. I have a Yamaha RX-V2600 which is great....but will only pass 1080i via HDMI. My PS3 of course can send BR 1080P. Will there be a noticeable picture difference if I feed 1080i to the PJ and have it do the progressive scan to 1080P. Screen is 118".


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vaguy28* /forum/post/19397055
> 
> 
> I've been a lurker for quite sometime since I've been wanting to jump into the HD realm but have been on the fence. So, I finally made the leap into HD this past weekend and took advantage of the HHGregg offer.
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum and doing some online research and have a list of questions which I'd appreciate answers for before I start *accessorizing* the projector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please forgive me if some of these seem rudimentary:
> 
> 
> 
> -Since I have a rather sizeable collection of standard definition DVDs - and many are imported foreign films which won't see a Blu-ray release anytime soon - Upscaling is a critical component for me. I know most Blu-ray players have an upscaling capability but was wondering if something like an Oppo Blu-ray player will offer a dramatic improvement in upscaling vs a sub-$200 player from Samsung or Sony?
> 
> 
> -I was at the Da-lite website researching screen types and materials. I noticed that their Matte White has a 1.0 gain and their High-Contrast Matte White has a 1.1 gain. Does 0.1 really make that much of a difference in the quality of the image projected? Will a 1.5 gain be excessive in a dark room/night viewing and cause my eyeballs to melt or make for an uncomfortable viewing?
> 
> 
> -Is 110" diagonal screen the optimal size to use with this projector? Would I lose sharpness/contrast, black, etc by going to 120"? Does a high gain screen help when projecting a larger image?
> 
> 
> -Haven't heard anyone mention pull-down or motorized screens. Are they not recommended because they're not affixed to a flat surface? Anybody have any experience with them and can provide input?
> 
> 
> -Will using HDMI 1.4 vs. 1.3 provide a significant improvement in the image projected?
> 
> 
> And just to pre-empt the usual questions, I will be using the projector for movie viewing mostly and occasionally sports during the day. I have a partially-controlled ambient light during the day. the depth of my Family Room is 17 feet.
> 
> 
> My apologies for the long-winded post.....and thanks for all the useful information provided thus far.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



If DVD playback on a big projected screen is important to you, a player such as the OPPO will make a difference (although they've discontinued their current model).


----------



## Hagopian

I've got my 8350...just waiting to finish my drop ceiling before I put her in position. I am limited on screen height to just about 50", so I am planning on a DIY 125" 2.35 screen, with vertical masking to bring it down to a 100" 16:9 screen.


Curious if anybody else out there has a similar 2.35 setup. Of most interest to me is the screen material. I purchased some Elite screen CineWhite material for fairly cheap and will be building my own fixed frame and masks.


How is your set up?

How is it to change from 16:9 to 2.35?

Picture quality on CineWhite? Anybody?


Thanks in advance,


Jeff


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19397574
> 
> 
> Curious if anybody else out there has a similar 2.35 setup. Of most interest to me is the screen material. I purchased some Elite screen CineWhite material for fairly cheap and will be building my own fixed frame and masks.
> 
> 
> Picture quality on CineWhite? Anybody?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Jeff


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...585554&page=37


----------



## Mithrandir28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19396225
> 
> 
> How much R & L space is there. 1 inch/ more...less?
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that setting the Pj for formatting within a Screen's border using the start up screen can leave you short during actual content. Things vary...especially between PJs with different lenses.
> 
> 
> I've encountered that issue before switching from DLP to LCD...and even between different DLPs and different LCDs as well. Do enough of 'em and you'll see all sorts of small irregularities.
> 
> 
> But nothing I've encountered could not be accommodated by use of a tiny bit of Over Scan...Zoom... and/or the masking provided by a Good Velvet border.



There is roughly about an inch on either side. It's certainly not a dealbreaker

as I have black masking curtains on either side, but it can be distracting.


I used "Avatar" on Blu-ray to fit it to the screen. I had to use something with the 1.78 ratio, and that was the best one to do it with.


----------



## giacoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19397155
> 
> 
> Another consideration before I seriously look into getting this PJ. I have a Yamaha RX-V2600 which is great....but will only pass 1080i via HDMI. My PS3 of course can send BR 1080P. Will there be a noticeable picture difference if I feed 1080i to the PJ and have it do the progressive scan to 1080P. Screen is 118".



Why don't you just bypass the receiver for the video? That is what I did.


----------



## kjr39




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19397574
> 
> 
> I've got my 8350...just waiting to finish my drop ceiling before I put her in position. I am limited on screen height to just about 50", so I am planning on a DIY 125" 2.35 screen, with vertical masking to bring it down to a 100" 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> Curious if anybody else out there has a similar 2.35 setup. Of most interest to me is the screen material. I purchased some Elite screen CineWhite material for fairly cheap and will be building my own fixed frame and masks.
> 
> 
> How is your set up?
> 
> How is it to change from 16:9 to 2.35?
> 
> Picture quality on CineWhite? Anybody?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Really interested to hear your thoughts on the CineWhite setup when you've got it done. This is the screen that I'm planning on using...


----------



## greg1292




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19395268
> 
> 
> I have been debating whether or not to get a 120" screen (alternative is 106") for my near future 8350 purchase. Seating will be 12-15 ft back. I was afraid it might be too big, but I like immersion too. Thanks for your opinion. It makes me lean towards the 120" more, but another problem is that the projector has to be mounted fairly low and at 13 ft.
> 
> I'm concerned that standing up in the seating area will block the picture significantly at 120". A pity because I also intended to have an HD Wii equivalent there one day.



From that distance 120" would be fine.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giacoman* /forum/post/19398113
> 
> 
> Why don't you just bypass the receiver for the video? That is what I did.



I could certainly do that, but then I would have no way of using that HDMI out of the PS3 for PCM 5.1 lossless audio. That's the only way I can get HD audio in my theater. If I used HDMI directly to the projector, I would have to use fiber TOSLINK to my receiver and lose the HD audio. So I think the only way to do this is to send the projector 1080i so my questions was if that would cause any noticeable picture degradation?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19398441
> 
> 
> I could certainly do that, but then I would have no way of using that HDMI out of the PS3 for PCM 5.1 lossless audio. That's the only way I can get HD audio in my theater. If I used HDMI directly to the projector, I would have to use fiber TOSLINK to my receiver and lose the HD audio. So I think the only way to do this is to send the projector 1080i so my questions was if that would cause any noticeable picture degradation?



Buy a sub-$60 HDMI splitter from Monoprice?


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19398525
> 
> 
> Buy a sub-$60 HDMI splitter from Monoprice?



Will that work? I have heard that it wouldn't since HDMI carries both audio and video and can't split the two. I would love to hear from anyone who has used that successfully....I think I need to do some searching on the forums.


----------



## Bagel187

I don't have any calibration software of my own. Can I plug in Art's calibration numbers and get pretty close or is every projector so different that I might make it worse?


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19398691
> 
> 
> Will that work? I have heard that it wouldn't since HDMI carries both audio and video and can't split the two. I would love to hear from anyone who has used that successfully....I think I need to do some searching on the forums.



you don't split the video and audio stream, you still send both to both device's.


Your receiver won't do anything with the video, and your projector won't do anything with the audio so I don't see a conflict.


Your only annoyance is that you will have to change the input on the projector and the receiver when you want to use that component.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bagel187* /forum/post/19398795
> 
> 
> I don't have any calibration software of my own. Can I plug in Art's calibration numbers and get pretty close or is every projector so different that I might make it worse?



Nobody knows but you... you might put in his settings and it happens to look identical. Some people don't like neutral or natural settings and prefer some extra pop/over saturation etc. Your HT environment has an impact. Your source's can have an impact. It's ultimately going to be up to you to find settings but often you will be happy using someone else's.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bagel187* /forum/post/19398795
> 
> 
> I don't have any calibration software of my own. Can I plug in Art's calibration numbers and get pretty close or is every projector so different that I might make it worse?



It will be better, but how much better depends on your specific projector and setup. We all have different screens, room sizes, wall color, etc.. I used Art's numbers for my 6500Ub, and was very pleased with the results.


----------



## bk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1dude57* /forum/post/19395201
> 
> 
> So I am assuming that this would be a huge upgrade over my HC720 in terms of brightness and black levels?



I just upgraded from an HC720 with 784 hours to the 8350. Given the hours on the HC720 the a new 8350 is probably twice as bright, but with better colors and black levels - not even close. In addition, SDE is much less noticeable.


----------



## krshlstn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vaguy28* /forum/post/19397055
> 
> 
> I've been a lurker for quite sometime since I've been wanting to jump into the HD realm but have been on the fence. So, I finally made the leap into HD this past weekend and took advantage of the HHGregg offer.
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum and doing some online research and have a list of questions which I'd appreciate answers for before I start *accessorizing* the projector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please forgive me if some of these seem rudimentary:
> 
> 
> 
> -Since I have a rather sizeable collection of standard definition DVDs - and many are imported foreign films which won't see a Blu-ray release anytime soon - Upscaling is a critical component for me. I know most Blu-ray players have an upscaling capability but was wondering if something like an Oppo Blu-ray player will offer a dramatic improvement in upscaling vs a sub-$200 player from Samsung or Sony?
> 
> 
> -I was at the Da-lite website researching screen types and materials. I noticed that their Matte White has a 1.0 gain and their High-Contrast Matte White has a 1.1 gain. Does 0.1 really make that much of a difference in the quality of the image projected? Will a 1.5 gain be excessive in a dark room/night viewing and cause my eyeballs to melt or make for an uncomfortable viewing?
> 
> 
> -Is 110" diagonal screen the optimal size to use with this projector? Would I lose sharpness/contrast, black, etc by going to 120"? Does a high gain screen help when projecting a larger image?
> 
> 
> -Haven't heard anyone mention pull-down or motorized screens. Are they not recommended because they're not affixed to a flat surface? Anybody have any experience with them and can provide input?
> 
> 
> -Will using HDMI 1.4 vs. 1.3 provide a significant improvement in the image projected?
> 
> 
> And just to pre-empt the usual questions, I will be using the projector for movie viewing mostly and occasionally sports during the day. I have a partially-controlled ambient light during the day. the depth of my Family Room is 17 feet.
> 
> 
> My apologies for the long-winded post.....and thanks for all the useful information provided thus far.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



Hi, I don't know all these for sure, but I have a decent knowledge on electronics.


1. I personally don't think the Oppo is going to be "that" much different than a Samsung, Sony or Panasonic. I wouldn't spend the money for that, but that's just me. (I can't say I have watched anything less than Bluray or HD programming on mine yet either)


2. The screen material does make a difference, but I can't tell you how much without knowing your room size, viewing distance, room color, etc. I can tell you I went with just a 1.0 gain because my room is kind of wide, so I didn't want it dimmer for the people on the side as it is right in front. If you have a narrow room and want it bright, then the extra gain will help. But I love the way mine looks and 1.0 is plenty for me with a light controlled room with black ceiling and grey walls.


3. You won't lose anything by going with 120" other than some brightness. It's pretty much like looking closer at a screen, you might see some more imperfections with DVD's and stuff. But a 120" screen sitting 13' away will be the perfect distance to see all 1080 lines of HD glory according to THX. So anything less, like 720p or lower at 480 will not look quite as good. But I think you would see that on a 110" also. At first I thought my 120" might be too large, but now I want larger.










4. Most people on here will have a fixed screen because you will always want your projector on. My friend got a motorized one and now has no idea why he got it since he never puts it up. But that's cosmetics for you, personal prefference.


5. HDMI 1.3 vs 1.4? Doesn't matter at all. 1.3 will be plenty of bandwidth. I personally just did 1.4 just because it would be future proofed for 3D or something like that just in case I need it in a few years. But for this projector, 1.3 will be more than enough.


6. I would Strongly suggest doing a ceiling mount and get that projector as close as possible. Every inch back makes the image dimmer. Look at the image calculator here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 

If you did it all the way back, the front of the projector would be about 16' from the screen. So say you have a 1.1 gain 120" Screen, that only gives you 15fL, if you go up to 12' to the front of the projector, you get 26fL. That's dang near twice as much for just 4' difference. I have it at 12' and 120" screen, I see absolutely nothing wrong with the zoom being that far in.


Like I said, I am in no way a specialist, but that is what I would tell my friends if they had these questions.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank* /forum/post/19398817
> 
> 
> you don't split the video and audio stream, you still send both to both device's.
> 
> 
> Your receiver won't do anything with the video, and your projector won't do anything with the audio so I don't see a conflict.
> 
> 
> Your only annoyance is that you will have to change the input on the projector and the receiver when you want to use that component.



You make a lot of sense and I would think the same thing. I have heard of people doing this successfully with this splitter:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage 


Some have reported HDCP issues...but maybe they were just doing it wrong. I wouldn't mind so much switching the source on my projector. It's 90% movies in there anyhow. Guess when the time comes I need to buy the splitter and test this before purchasing the projector. I'm on borrowed time on my lamp on my 900u now.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19399308
> 
> 
> You make a lot of sense and I would think the same thing. I have heard of people doing this successfully with this splitter:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
> 
> 
> Some have reported HDCP issues...but maybe they were just doing it wrong. I wouldn't mind so much switching the source on my projector. It's 90% movies in there anyhow. Guess when the time comes I need to buy the splitter and test this before purchasing the projector. I'm on borrowed time on my lamp on my 900u now.




Do yourself a favour and get the Pro splitter ($50-$60) from monoprice right off the bat. Almost no issues with that one from the reviews. I have two of these myself, but they're not installed yet so I can't give you first-hand experience.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19396293
> 
> 
> Has someone confirmed that you can get 120" from 13ft away?
> 
> 
> 
> If possible, get the projector first and project a 120" screen on the wall in which the screen will be placed and watch some scenes from a movie.
> 
> 
> I went from 100" to 117" and sit about 12ft away and it's about perfect for my personal taste.
> 
> A 120" was just a little to big for my personal taste so I had a custom 117" screen made.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind the most movies will not be 16:9 and fill the entire screen so the entire screen will not be filled and have about 10 inches of black bars above and below the picture.




Thanks for the input. Yes, I calculated that 13ft would be fine using Art's review figures and the throw calculator. I guess it's going to be 120" screen goodness for me!


----------



## talk2rider

I've got about 35 hours on my 8350. I don't have any complaints. It did give me an error message once at start-up saying there was something wrong with the Auto-Iris, but I've only seen that error once. I will keep an eye on it. Has anyone else seen that error?


----------



## Lindros88

How far should my screen be from the floor, ceiling, and sidewalls? Is it okay if my screen is 1 1/2 feet away from one of the sidewalls?


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19401102
> 
> 
> How far should my screen be from the floor, ceiling, and sidewalls? Is it okay if my screen is 1 1/2 feet away from one of the sidewalls?



You will have the same sort of reflection issues off the side wall that you have off the ceiling. It may be difficult to place speakers. I'm assuming the wall doesn't have windows, as that could be a real problem. Other than that, no biggie


----------



## Uber12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19400784
> 
> 
> Do yourself a favour and get the Pro splitter ($50-$60) from monoprice right off the bat. Almost no issues with that one from the reviews. I have two of these myself, but they're not installed yet so I can't give you first-hand experience.



I purchased the Monoprice pro splitter and it does not work for me splitting the output from my Denon receiver, but does work if I split the output from my PS3 as the source. Monoprice told me that there are compatibility issues with some combinations of equipment so there is no guarantee that it will work for you. That being said, I think for $60 or so it's worth a try adn they will let you return it if you have any problems.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Uber12* /forum/post/19402545
> 
> 
> I purchased the Monoprice pro splitter and it does not work for me splitting the output from my Denon receiver, but does work if I split the output from my PS3 as the source. Monoprice told me that there are compatibility issues with some combinations of equipment so there is no guarantee that it will work for you. That being said, I think for $60 or so it's worth a try adn they will let you return it if you have any problems.



Which Denon do you have?

Also, did any other devices have issues going through the splitter?


I have FiOS Motorola DVR, & PS3 going to Denon 3808, then to Pioneer 5070 Display.

I've been thinking about getting this projector for Movies & Sports, but wondered if the splitter would work.


----------



## vaguy28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19399145
> 
> 
> Hi, I don't know all these for sure, but I have a decent knowledge on electronics.
> 
> 
> 1. I personally don't think the Oppo is going to be "that" much different than a Samsung, Sony or Panasonic. I wouldn't spend the money for that, but that's just me. (I can't say I have watched anything less than Bluray or HD programming on mine yet either)
> 
> 
> 2. The screen material does make a difference, but I can't tell you how much without knowing your room size, viewing distance, room color, etc. I can tell you I went with just a 1.0 gain because my room is kind of wide, so I didn't want it dimmer for the people on the side as it is right in front. If you have a narrow room and want it bright, then the extra gain will help. But I love the way mine looks and 1.0 is plenty for me with a light controlled room with black ceiling and grey walls.
> 
> 
> 3. You won't lose anything by going with 120" other than some brightness. It's pretty much like looking closer at a screen, you might see some more imperfections with DVD's and stuff. But a 120" screen sitting 13' away will be the perfect distance to see all 1080 lines of HD glory according to THX. So anything less, like 720p or lower at 480 will not look quite as good. But I think you would see that on a 110" also. At first I thought my 120" might be too large, but now I want larger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. Most people on here will have a fixed screen because you will always want your projector on. My friend got a motorized one and now has no idea why he got it since he never puts it up. But that's cosmetics for you, personal prefference.
> 
> 
> 5. HDMI 1.3 vs 1.4? Doesn't matter at all. 1.3 will be plenty of bandwidth. I personally just did 1.4 just because it would be future proofed for 3D or something like that just in case I need it in a few years. But for this projector, 1.3 will be more than enough.
> 
> 
> 6. I would Strongly suggest doing a ceiling mount and get that projector as close as possible. Every inch back makes the image dimmer. Look at the image calculator here:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm
> 
> If you did it all the way back, the front of the projector would be about 16' from the screen. So say you have a 1.1 gain 120" Screen, that only gives you 15fL, if you go up to 12' to the front of the projector, you get 26fL. That's dang near twice as much for just 4' difference. I have it at 12' and 120" screen, I see absolutely nothing wrong with the zoom being that far in.
> 
> 
> Like I said, I am in no way a specialist, but that is what I would tell my friends if they had these questions.




Krshlstn.....thank you for the taking the time to respond to my inquiries. I did experiment yesterday with the throw distance you recommended and it seems that anywhere between 11' & 13' works best....and that's being projected on a plain wall with an entire room painted in an off-white color - all lights being off obviously. I think I'll be quite happy with night movie viewings. However, I question how well this will look in day viewing with a bit of ambient light leaking in here and there....in a light-colored painted room.


----------



## Uber12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19402648
> 
> 
> Which Denon do you have?
> 
> Also, did any other devices have issues going through the splitter?
> 
> 
> I have FiOS Motorola DVR, & PS3 going to Denon 3808, then to Pioneer 5070 Display.
> 
> I've been thinking about getting this projector for Movies & Sports, but wondered if the splitter would work.



I have a PS3, Motorola DVR, and Sony DVD player hooked up to a Deonon AVR-1909 with a single HDMI output to a Panasonic 42PX77U. My Epson 8350 won't ship until tomorrow so I couldn't try it with that yet, but if it doesn't work with just the TV then I need to try something else. Richard at Quebec Acoustic where I ordered my projector is selling me a Vanco splitter which is unfortunately 3 times the price of the Monoprice one, but he says it will definitely work. Still, I think it was worth trying the Monoprice one first since it is significantly less expensive and apparently works for most people.


----------



## jbpaul

OK, I've had my 8350 installed for a couple of weeks. Been through several BR movies and several hours of HD cable content among other things. I won't write an in depth review but here are my general comments.


Projecting from 14 feet on to a 92" DIY screen (God bless you, MississippiMan) in a somewhat light controlled room via a 40 foot Monoprice HDMI cable. I had to use approx 75% of the lens shift in both directions.


Most content viewed using ECO mode and Living Room color mode.


Blu-rays: freakin' WOW!

HD Cable: Really good upscaled from 1080i to 1080p with the AVR

HD home movies: excellent

Nintendo Wii w/component cable: as good as can be expected from 480p


Blacks: excellent with iris on and a grey screen

Whites and colors: excellent, especially with some light control

Ambient light performance: really good with DIY grey screen with some gain

Noise: virtually silent in ECO, not so much in normal but not loud by any means


Had one scare...at power on got a message re: iris error, call support....a power cycle fixed it and has been fine since.


Couldn't be happier with my purchase.


JB


----------



## Bagel187

Couple more questions... Thanks everyone for the help so far.


1) How do I turn Super White on? Is it an HDMI only option? Am I missing anything with it off on my component connection?


2) Should I have the IRIS on Normal or High Speed? What's the difference?


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbpaul* /forum/post/19403128
> 
> 
> Couldn't be happier with my purchase.
> 
> JB



This unit is a great machine for sure....


----------



## vaguy28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bagel187* /forum/post/19403198
> 
> 
> Couple more questions... Thanks everyone for the help so far.
> 
> 
> 1) How do I turn Super White on? Is it an HDMI only option? Am I missing anything with it off on my component connection?
> 
> 
> 2) Should I have the IRIS on Normal or High Speed? What's the difference?



From the Epson Manual:

_EPSON Super White

Note: This setting can be used only when a composite video, S-Video, or component video signal is being input and the Color Mode is set to THX (Home Cinema 8700 UB), Natural (Home Cinema 8350), Theatre (Home Cinema 8700 UB), Cinema (Home Cinema 8350), Theatre Black 1 (Home Cinema 8700 UB), or Theatre Black 2 (Home Cinema 8700 UB) (see page 28)._


----------



## Bagel187

Gotcha thanks. It's weird I'm using component and cinema and it's grayed out.


----------



## vaguy28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bagel187* /forum/post/19404595
> 
> 
> Gotcha thanks. It's weird I'm using component and cinema and it's grayed out.



Interesting. Maybe you can give their Customer Service a call and tell them about this issue. Please share their response with us if you do so


----------



## Lindros88

Can I get good black level performance using a matte white screen in a fully light controlled theater room?


----------



## microphage1

my elite 100 inch and epson8350... now I gotta figure out how to install this stuff...


----------



## krshlstn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19406710
> 
> 
> Can I get good black level performance using a matte white screen in a fully light controlled theater room?



I wouldn't go with this screen you are looking at. It's a square, used for offices. You need widescreen 16:9.


I built my own screen and just bought some screen material from ebay for like $90. It looks identical to the high priced stuff. If there actually is a difference in quality, there is no way I can see it. Here is an attachment of my 120" screen if you want to see how I did it. It takes some time, but looks great and is cheap. You just have to make the main frame, staple on the material and then do the front frame with some Flat Black Velvet glued or stapled on and screw them together. I'm trying to get pictures posted but not sure what the best way of going about that is since they are slightly too large for what they allow on here.



EDIT: I thought you attached the link on the screen, but I think that was done automatically by AVS Forums. It's not the actual screen you're looking at. MY BAD!


----------



## Ryan Steagall

Its been a while since I've shopped for a projector. This one is looking pretty nice to me. Currently I have an Optoma HD72. Think this would be a good upgrade for me? I also have a couple other questions.


I looked at the projection calculator: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm I don't see any information as to the shift height of picture as compared to where the light comes out of the lens like I do on my hd72 here http://www.projectorcentral.com/Opto...ulator-pro.htm Anyone have this info? I don't know the proper terminology. Is this lens shift? The calculator makes it look like the projector needs to be centered of the screen. In that case, it would need to sit a few feet off the floor or a few feet hanging from the ceiling.


I'm also assuming that this can be mounted from the ceiling upside down, but have not see information on this either.


----------



## daveinmaryland

I have been looking for a new pj for some time, not really intensly, but occasional searches, will order my 8350 today, and be setting it up next week, (if work does not exhaust me all week), upgrading from an older Mitsubishi XD400U, so this is a big step. Already have the 110" screen, (home made, AVNET material, just not sure right now which material it is), found many of the replys interesting, I'd like to mount it on the wall in the back of the room, 20' throw, but, sounds like I should entertain keeping it on the coffee table, but move it to the screen end of the table for best picture. Upgrading to HDMI, have new Pioneer VSX1019 reciever, Polk 5.1 speaker system. Currently have standard (non-HD) cable from Comcast (may upgrade in the spring to HD, not sure yet, need to consider the $ for what I get from it), room is 12 x 20, painted in a semi flat earth tone light brown, good blinds with dark curtains. I just have an older DVD player now. So, I'm open to advice, I have read a lot on here, and will probably read a lot more once the pj arrives and I start to play it. I generally watch a few movies a month, depends on who I'm dating at the time, I do enjoy watching sports, use the projector to display laptop images, and at the time no gaming. If you made it this far in the reply, thanks for reading, and like I said, I'm open to any and all advice, have a great day.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ryan Steagall* /forum/post/19407536
> 
> 
> Its been a while since I've shopped for a projector. This one is looking pretty nice to me. Currently I have an Optoma HD72. Think this would be a good upgrade for me? I also have a couple other questions.
> 
> 
> I looked at the projection calculator: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm I don't see any information as to the shift height of picture as compared to where the light comes out of the lens like I do on my hd72 here http://www.projectorcentral.com/Opto...ulator-pro.htm Anyone have this info? I don't know the proper terminology. Is this lens shift? The calculator makes it look like the projector needs to be centered of the screen. In that case, it would need to sit a few feet off the floor or a few feet hanging from the ceiling.



Hee hee...., The PC Calculator always places PJs w/Lens Shift at Screen center**** because vertical lens shift is measured from the center of the Screen outward. Er...., upward / downward Each increment is based on the height of the screen area Ex. 48" screen height / 2x shift =96" from Top edge "Centered" to Top egde of a shifted position. Horizontal Shift is based...you guessed it...on Screen width x? from Center


The 8350s specs are:


Vertical **** is 2.5 x Screen height.


Horizontal Shift is 48% screen width



> Quote:
> I'm also assuming that this can be mounted from the ceiling upside down, but have not see information on this either.



Only if you watch Movies standing on your Head.p



Seriously though...it's a Home Theater PJ. I haven't seen any such Model Design come "Table Top Only"......ever. Well, maybe once kinda, but that was a 1280x800 Presentation PJ (Optoma) and it just didn't have mounting holes. It required a "Clamp Bracket" mount but still it had "Ceiling Mode"


So assume away...you nailed it without trying hard.


****

PJs with Lens Offset are shown above/below the Screen's edge with the offset figure included. Those with no offset and no Lens Shift are shown with Lens aligned with the Screens edge.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daveinmaryland* /forum/post/19407612
> 
> 
> I'd like to mount it on the wall in the back of the room, 20' throw, but, sounds like I should entertain keeping it on the coffee table, but move it to the screen end of the table for best picture.



Nonsensical.....







110" @ 20' delivers 11 fl....good enough until you decide to move up into a screen with 1.3 gain that will garner you 15 ft lambert. Certainly a much closer Throw will drastically brighten your Image with this PJ, but experience with such high lumen PJs has shown me that "intensity" equates to Ft Lambert ratings that are understated in reference to actual "off the Screen" dynamics. A lower lumen PJ showing 11 fls at a given Throw more oft than not seems weaker than a higher Lumen PJ showing 11 fls due to a different, longer throw..


It has a little to do with the image's focal point...much like a Mag Lite's beam stays intense due to the Lens restriction. This works only to a point and better/worse depending upon the PJ in use, and the 8350's lumens and Lens is ideal for this situation.


Coffee Table....Gaaaa...you don't want to go there! Cabling issues...spillage concerns...where ya gonna put your feet????

Man...that just soooooo 90's







*(...are there issues that rule out an appropriately positioned Ceiling Mount ? )*



> Quote:
> Upgrading to HDMI, ,( not sure yet, need to consider the $ for what I get from it),



Here's the "Deal to Die for"


v1.4 *Flat* HDMI Cords at $1.00 ft from Compatible Cable (.com) (510)928-1974 (on Pacific Time) Refer to "Bill" Tell him to do you right or I'll go "Mississippi" on 'em. He'll know...











> Quote:
> I just have an older DVD player now. So, I'm open to advice, I have read a lot on here, and will probably read a lot more once the pj arrives and I start to play it. I generally watch a few movies a month, depends on who I'm dating at the time, I do enjoy watching sports,



Blu-Ray ... Latest generation SONY (loads much faster) w/Networking / Cable for Various Movie Downloading Services


Sports Fan, Going HD...???...gotta getcherself a HD-DVR and catch it all, Bro! Lessin' yer always plunked down in front of the thing when Weekends roll in.











> Quote:
> I use the projector to display laptop images, and at the time no gaming. If you made it this far in the reply, thanks for reading, and like I said, I'm open to any and all advice, have a great day.



Well, does the Lap'per have HDMI out? A seperate Hand Remote or Wireless Mouse? If not you might still have to "console wire" from your Coffee Table to the Wall/PJ a VGA Cord. Hopefully not. If the Laptop can be placed at the Receiver and that unit has HDMI w/ Component / Composite - Up Conversion/Switching...then you should be fine.


Should be....that is.







Technology, it's our Boon and our Bane rolled into one package.


OK then advice asked for, advice given...more to come I'm sure.


Get'ter dun!


----------



## krshlstn

So since this forum has been SO helpful to me with picking out a projector, I thought I would post a few pictures.


I have added pics on how this monoprice mount works with the 8350.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 

As you can see from my pictures (in the link below) it is not large enough to hit the 4 main mounting holes. I could only get it in the front 3 of the 5 total holes. It worked pretty good actually, the only problem I had is the kitchen is right above the theater room, so if some one walks hard or hits the floor hard it would shake the projector and it would bounce for a few seconds. Not bad or anything, but enough to notice it when the picture was still. So I had a custom mount made of 1/4" steel and welded it to the monoprice mount. I painted it black and it works great.


Attached is the 3D drawing I made of my room when I built my house. I needed the room to go the wide way to fit furniture and because my front two speakers are custom made of marble, so they weigh about 100 lbs each. I had them on stands at the old house but my wife made me build them into the wall so they wouldn't tip over and crush my kids, and the only one wall would work for that. (side note: I got the speakers from this millionaires house I worked on when I did home automation and he had 26 of these speakers in his barn, so they said I could have 2 since they weren't using them all. We were guessing they were a couple grand a piece since they were custom made for him. Side Side note: the programer I worked with on his house was the same ones that programmed Bill Gates home automation, crazy nuts!)


Anyway, here is the link to some pictures. Sorry they totally suck for quality. I took them on an Android Hero.

Pictures:
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/...ome%20Theater/


----------



## Uber12

Thanks for all the pictures. I haven't seen a lot of pictures with lights on like that and it looks like it's still quite watchable even with a significant amount of light in the room. My room should be fairly well light controlled, but it's nice to know I can have some light and still get a decent picture.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19408027
> 
> 
> 
> I have added pics on how this monoprice mount works with the 8350.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> As you can see from my pictures (in the link below) it is not large enough to hit the 4 main mounting holes.



I have that mount too. It seems stable enough for me. I might add a safety cable also, but apart from that its fine. Especially for the price


----------



## cscmtp

I am buying my first projector and am strongly considering this model. Right now after searching online the best price I could find is $1169 shipped. Does anyone think we'll see better prices on Black Friday? Any recommendations on places to buy? Also, Amazon has the Onkyo TX-SR608 7.2-Channel Home Theater Receiver on sale right now for $379 shipped. Would that be a ncie receiver to pair with the 8350 or should I be looking for something nicer? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!


----------



## azereus

Hey guys,


Just got this projector today and have a couple of quick questions. The first two things I noticed after an hour or so of use is:


1) The PJ is very warm. I wouldn't say hot, but definitely warm to touch. There's also quite a bit of warm air coming out of the front vent.

2)I'm getting a slight burning plastic kind of smell.


Now this is my very first projector so I'm not sure if these things are normal or not for this projector, or any projector for that matter? Opinions or advice would be welcome. Thanks


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19410378
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Just got this projector today and have a couple of quick questions. The first two things I noticed after an hour or so of use is:
> 
> 
> 1) The PJ is very warm. I wouldn't say hot, but definitely warm to touch. There's also quite a bit of warm air coming out of the front vent.
> 
> 2)I'm getting a slight burning plastic kind of smell.
> 
> 
> Now this is my very first projector so I'm not sure if these things are normal or not for this projector, or any projector for that matter? Opinions or advice would be welcome. Thanks



1) There's a big honking light bulb in there. Expect heat.

2) The plastic smell is the manufacturing coating burning off. It will go away after a few hours.


----------



## leov36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Just got this projector today and have a couple of quick questions. The first two things I noticed after an hour or so of use is:
> 
> 
> 1) The PJ is very warm. I wouldn't say hot, but definitely warm to touch. There's also quite a bit of warm air coming out of the front vent.
> 
> 2)I'm getting a slight burning plastic kind of smell.
> 
> 
> Now this is my very first projector so I'm not sure if these things are normal or not for this projector, or any projector for that matter? Opinions or advice would be welcome. Thanks



I've owned two epson projectors. And they both had that smell to them at first. After 40 or so hours the smell goes away. I'm assuming this is normal, and I've never had any problems with either. Oh yeah, they get warm alright, my projectors increase the temperature of my theater room (it's not very big)


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gameboy9* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that surely explains things... I think Gran Turismo 5 is supposed to be pure 1080p, so I have a feeling that I'll see the pure resolution of this projector pop up... whenever that game gets released...



I am reading the thread from post 1 so realize this post is a but old. Set your PS3 to 720p in the resolution settings and turn off 1080p. Then set the ps3 to 24fps and games will play in 720p but bluerays will be 1080p. Some games will otherwise be upscaled by the ps3 which often isn't good for the pq.


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19410466
> 
> 
> 1) There's a big honking light bulb in there. Expect heat.
> 
> 2) The plastic smell is the manufacturing coating burning off. It will go away after a few hours.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leov36* /forum/post/19410795
> 
> 
> I've owned two epson projectors. And they both had that smell to them at first. After 40 or so hours the smell goes away. I'm assuming this is normal, and I've never had any problems with either. Oh yeah, they get warm alright, my projectors increase the temperature of my theater room (it's not very big)



Thank you both, that makes me feel better.










On a side note; even though this is my first projector and have nothing to compare it to, I'm blown away by the quality and picture image!


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI-
> 
> Best Buy doesn't list the 8350 on their website but some stores have them in stock.
> 
> I found one on the top shelf by the projector display.
> 
> It didn't even show up in the computer until they scanned the barcode on the box.



Thank you. First confirmation post that BB will carry the 8350. I assumed so as they had the 8100 and are selling them at lowered prices. Before anyone asks this is important up here in AK as shipping gets expensive.....


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

Just got my 112" screen in! Know one ever buys GrandView Screens... A rare gem in the wild. Look at that packaging, know more tiny little elite box that the frame comes in 6 pieces crap.


----------



## Lindros88

Where can I find Art's calibration settings?


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19411362
> 
> 
> Where can I find Art's calibration settings?



Google Projector Reviews site and search for 8350 review, there you'll see Art's Calibration.


----------



## Dallas_Jose




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhdiab* /forum/post/19411172
> 
> 
> Thank you. First confirmation post that BB will carry the 8350. I assumed so as they had the 8100 and are selling them at lowered prices. Before anyone asks this is important up here in AK as shipping gets expensive.....



I also just got the 8350 at bb. It was not on display and did not come up on their register pc. I saw a tag on the shelf with the right specs


Epson (no other info)

1080p

50,000:1 contrast

price


I asked the salesman to show me the projector and sure enough it was the Epson 8350. I'll try to post a pic of what my reciept says the sku was, the guy at the tv section had no idea it came out and swore they didnt have it. They only had one in stock. It was on sale for "very slightly" below 1299 (not sure if we can post sale price)


I like it so far, coming off an panasonic ae900 and see a big difference in my opinion.


----------



## BlackoutsBox

Hey guys! I have been away from this forum for about 6 years.... last time around I had spent nearly $3000 on a InFocus lp340. I'm an actor / writer director into indie film production so I was just kind of annoyed at the lack of technology that truly gave a "film like" image both in acquisition and projector technology at the time. So I went more into theater and voice over radio work, flash to about 6 months ago, I got the Panasonic Lumix GH1 HD-SLR and then installed a hack from a German guy called Tester13 that raised the bitrate of this 1920 x 1080 24p camera from 17mbits to about 50.


I was watching footage on my 24 inch 1080p monitor and my jaw actually dropped... enough so to immediately get me back into film production because I would go as far as to say that this camera could shoot a movie (the hacked one) that could be nationally released or actually printed to film. The next step up would be the 4K Red which is $30,000.


Anyway, this is a projector forum, not a camera forum... but my next big question was... will this little GH1 camera really stand up on a large screen projection? I did some tests connecting it to an actual christie projector at a theater in 42nd street after everything was closed down... and no one knew it wasn't a 'real movie' but shot on a tiny HD-SLR camera!


I then immediately knew I needed to get a digital projector again... I had been away from the seen for a long time. I have a 12 foot diag da-lite portable screen with tripod that I use for film festivals. It's a little odd to transport (very long) but very easy to go from full 4:3 to 16:9 to 2.31 with a few ratchet clicks.


I was ALL set to buy the 8100 when it suddenly said discontinued on both B&H and Best Buy's site and I heard about the 8350. I went to the 24 hour Best Buy in Union Square and they were toying with one and I was so absolutely shocked at how good it looked that I tried to buy it immediately. "No.. this is a display model," they said, and I started to cry, "but we might have one more... they are not really in our system yet."


I saw a new one in box on the counter and started laying out $100 bills but some crazy woman snagged it 5 seconds before me... They then said don't worry there is 1 display unit and 1 available at all the Best Buy stores in NYC, and I proceeded to waste about 2 hours as they verbally called each and every every single Best Buy Store in NYC to see if they actually had the one that the computer said they had, and not one of them did, they had all been snagged by projector ninjas in on the secret of this projector's awesomeness.


Oh the agony of defeat.


I wanted it now... I wanted it locally.. that's how I am with my gadgets when I want them, especially projectors that can blow up.


Two hours of google searches led me only to this thread, and all the major electronic stores in NYC did not have it. No B&H, no J&R, no Best Buy, nada nada nada... high end projector places cursed me saying they didn't carry that "low end projector" bastard fiends! Your $5000 Marantz looks like kaka in comparison!


Finally.... on e-bay, I found a seller in Brooklyn that had two listed for $1185.00 buy it now. I called up and asked if I could buy it with paypal and come pick it up immediately and they said no... and further that, that the warehouse was cash only. This worried me a bit and seemed shady but I ran over there and took the chance and they were legit and I got the last one. $1185.00... $1286.00 total with tax.


I then, in my overjoyed state, had baked clams oreganata and a nice Cabernet to celebrate as I thumbed through the manual.


NOTE to others: Don't wander through Flatbush Brooklyn with a huge box that says "ultimate home theater digital projector"


Luckily I am trained in stealth and wore my Willy Wonka / Stratego spy hat and made it all the way home safely.


I got this puppy home, went into my basement bat cave studio / theater dragon's lair, and realized I didn't have a HDMI to HDMI cable because up till now I had been watching blu-rays on my quad core i7 on a second 30 inch lcd monitor with dvi (ati 4850 x2 graphics card.. a beast.. 4 monitor outs).


I DID however have a mini hdmi to reg hdmi cable though, so I could hook my Panasonic Lumix GH1 directly into the projector and I was ASTOUNDED at the image, and that was just out of the box at the natural setting... which looked awesome... but I wanted bigger... so I moved the screen back and then put the projector into dynamic mode, with the brightness at -8 and the color temp at around 7000 to 7500k at holy holy of holies Bat Man I couldn't believe my eyes. The picture POPPED with rich blacks, yet still detail in them, whites that were bright but not burnt out or blooming, total accurate colors and detail.... perfect skin tones... no screen door.. no convergence issues... I had always been a DLP man but I have seen the three panel light....! Praise be Epson! Best printers, best projectors... and luckily their bulb strategy is not like their ripoff ink cartridge strategy!


I am now satisfied.. I can make a real film... it looked no different than pro released blu-rays I have seen projected and perhaps better. It looked better than some movies I have seen in actual theaters.


Just wanted to say hi and tell you how absolutely in love I am with this thing from just a few hours viewing... I didn't even have any sound yet. Today I will go out and get a 25 foot hdmi cable to run from my computer since I would assume that would be better than buying another blu ray player? The ati 4850 x2 clearly has better upscaling of SD material and I can also play insane bitrate films that you don't get on blu-ray. AVCHD at 50mbit is amazing.. I couldn't see any issues or artifacts.


Now on to my other questions: I need to move this monster around a lot.... yes, this projector is a beast... but I kind of like it because it makes it look very professional and intimidating so I will probably make it's money back in two to three rental sessions. Does anyone have an idea of a case with padding for this puppy, or a shoulder padded bag thats at least a little thick to protect it that doesn't cost crazy beans?


I go to various venues and run film festivals for some clients and fellow film makers and this projector slaughters what we have been using before. It almost looked better than the projected image at the actual movie theater on the insane $85,000 Christie projector. Then again, smaller screen of course, but I was sitting closer.. so field of view was the same.


I am just blow blown away that projector technology has gotten this much better and this cheap. I was expecting to have to spend 5K at least for this sort of image quality. Truly mind blowing. I am a happy artist.


Did I mention I really like this projector?


- Blackout


----------



## par4

Yawn...... another boring review. Ho hum. And too short!

BlackoutsBox that is a fun read. Great to see you like the 8350. This hobby can bring lots of enjoyment and, on occasion, put a big grin on even some of the most jaded critics faces. Makes all the work and effort worthwhile.


----------



## greighn

For those owners of Sony's venerable VPL-HS20 projector who want to know if the Epson 8350 is a worthwhile upgrade, the answer is YES!


I can't believe what I was living with once I fired up the Epson. It is head and shoulders above the Sony in every category, black levels, color, brightness (especially!), contrast, sharpness, noise, etc. And all for about 1/3 of what I paid for the Sony back in 2004. Absolutely amazing.


If you're on the fence about upgrading, get off it and pick one up. You won't be disappointed except in what you've been watching for all these years.


-Gary.


----------



## bhurlbert

I too just ordered my Epson 8350 from Projector People. Got my Pioneer VSX-1120-K from Amazon via UPS on Friday. Also, ordered my NHT Classic 3-series speakers.


Excited about the upgrade from my Optoma MovieTime DV10.


Still trying to decide what to do about a screen, will be using the free Panoview screen that came with the DV10 for now. The bottom of the mantle where I will be mounting the center channel speaker is ~ 48" from the floor. So, wondering whether I should go with an acoustically transparent screen to move the screen lower for better viewing. It will have to be a motorized/manual screen that drops in front of the mantle/TV.


Any suggestions on the screen? Is 4' off the floor too high for comfortable viewing?


Thanks,

Bill


----------



## shftup

Hey BlackOut - post some pics from your movies (hacked G) - interested to see what it looks like for quality....






























Perhaps I should pick one up for videos......

Can you send me the linky on the hack?


Thanks

S


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19411362
> 
> 
> Where can I find Art's calibration settings?


 http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


*I used his Cinema settings for my light controlled room & it worked great.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dallas_Jose* /forum/post/19411610
> 
> 
> I also just got the 8350 at bb. It was not on display and did not come up on their register pc. I saw a tag on the shelf with the right specs
> 
> 
> Epson (no other info)
> 
> 1080p
> 
> 50,000:1 contrast
> 
> price
> 
> 
> I asked the salesman to show me the projector and sure enough it was the Epson 8350. I'll try to post a pic of what my reciept says the sku was, the guy at the tv section had no idea it came out and swore they didnt have it. They only had one in stock. It was on sale for "very slightly" below 1299 (not sure if we can post sale price)
> 
> 
> I like it so far, coming off an panasonic ae900 and see a big difference in my opinion.



Their sku is 1372995, Model V11H373120

It still does not show up on their website but if you go in store, they should be able to look it up in their computer to see if it's in stock.


*btw: The 8100 numbers for BB are Model: V11H336120 | SKU: 9500186


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlackoutsBox* /forum/post/19411659
> 
> 
> Now on to my other questions: I need to move this monster around a lot.... yes, this projector is a beast... but I kind of like it because it makes it look very professional and intimidating so I will probably make it's money back in two to three rental sessions. Does anyone have an idea of a case with padding for this puppy, or a shoulder padded bag thats at least a little thick to protect it that doesn't cost crazy beans?
> 
> 
> Did I mention I really like this projector?
> 
> 
> - Blackout



Check out SKB cases at Guitar Center or other large music stores in your area. You should be able to find something between $100-200.

A mixer style case may work best but take a look at any of them that will accommodate the size and pick the one that suites your needs.


*Make sure you know the exact dimensions of the projector so you get a case a little oversized for padding.


----------



## lakersin2025

I want this projector so bad. Once I find a new place and pay off our medical bills it's on! Going to have to work in the wife a little because this is lowest on our list of priorities. We just had our second son 2 days ago. I'm actually typing this on my phone from the hospital. Lots of time to read. Can't wait!


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhdiab* /forum/post/19411172
> 
> 
> Thank you. First confirmation post that BB will carry the 8350. I assumed so as they had the 8100 and are selling them at lowered prices. Before anyone asks this is important up here in AK as shipping gets expensive.....



I am too waiting for it to popup in my local Best Buy in Puerto Rico! Shipping to PR can be expensive too!


----------



## asay82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19412421
> 
> 
> I want this projector so bad. Once I find a new place and pay off our medical bills it's on! Going to have to work in the wife a little because this is lowest on our list of priorities. We just had our second son 2 days ago. I'm actually typing this on my phone from the hospital. Lots of time to read. Can't wait!




congratulation, i suggest surprising your wife with a new projector, you know....to see new baby pictures on the big screen!?!










she wont be mad, after all, you bought it for her & the baby.


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My option is 10'6" or 14'10" which one would be best for 106" screen.



Seen posts like this a lot just a note about it. 10'6" from where??? Front of the lense? Center of the mount / projector? Makes a big difference on a 16" pj....


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Their sku is 1372995, Model V11H373120
> 
> It still does not show up on their website but if you go in store, they should be able to look it up in their computer to see if it's in stock.
> 
> 
> *btw: The 8100 numbers for BB are Model: V11H336120 | SKU: 9500186



Thanks!!!


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/19411725
> 
> 
> For those owners of Sony's venerable VPL-HS20 projector who want to know if the Epson 8350 is a worthwhile upgrade, the answer is YES!
> 
> -Gary.



Gary - I hear ya! I just upgraded in the past couple days from an HS20 and am blown away. The brightness and pop of the 8350 are the most notable. Obviously better blacks and sharpness, but the pop is WOW. I'm on eco mode (thanks to brightness) and its much quieter also. Only con is that its noticeable larger and I wish it were flat black .. but no regrets.


I guess there is an upside to not upgrading often .. LEAPS in technology improvements!!


----------



## Frollo

Just got mine delivered. But no mount yet. Its coming. Guess I'll have to survive a few more days with my old Panasonic ax100 and the ugly yellow blotches everywhere.


----------



## Mazda74Speed3

112" Grandview screen is up, it's built like a tank!


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frollo* /forum/post/19412872
> 
> 
> Just got mine delivered. But no mount yet. Its coming. Guess I'll have to survive a few more days with my old Panasonic ax100 and the ugly yellow blotches everywhere.



I just set mine on the box it was delivered in and poof .. instant happiness. I wouldn't live with yellow blotches .... Still trying to figure out a mount, but that's not stopping me from enjoying it.


----------



## joey.r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19412933
> 
> 
> 112" Grandview screen is up, it's built like a tank!





yeah nice screens..and good pricing...and the people there.. are great ..



great guys at the Canadian out let .. know them well


----------



## G342

Well mine finally arrived today! Still not finished moving so, in a box it shall sit.

Only for the simple fact that if I ever take it out, I'll never finish moving.


----------



## colt54qg

Hey guys im in the market for a new TV for my living room and I have the perfect set up for a projector system Im just worried about ambient lighting during the day. Could somebody post some pics of the quality in different levels of ambient lighting (mid to high levels) with the epson 8350? I would really appreciate it.


----------



## BlackoutsBox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shftup* /forum/post/19412071
> 
> 
> Hey BlackOut - post some pics from your movies (hacked G) - interested to see what it looks like for quality....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should pick one up for videos......
> 
> Can you send me the linky on the hack?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> S



For whatever reason it won't let me post links. I guess I need three posts? So this is number 2? Ummm.. I'll post the link in the next post.


----------



## BlackoutsBox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19412332
> 
> 
> Check out SKB cases at Guitar Center or other large music stores in your area. You should be able to find something between $100-200.
> 
> A mixer style case may work best but take a look at any of them that will accommodate the size and pick the one that suites your needs.
> 
> 
> *Make sure you know the exact dimensions of the projector so you get a case a little oversized for padding.



Thanks. I have a guitar center on 14th street in Manhattan I'll hit up.


----------



## BlackoutsBox

Oh, and for the other person who wanted the link to hacked GH1 footage, here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO_h_Irqn_4&fmt=37 


Make sure to full screen it!


Thats 1080p youtube so there is some quality loss from youtube but I promise you it's the best youtube encode you ever saw! You can't imagine how great the 25 mbit master looks on the projector.


- Blackout


----------



## crosswire

ive been on this forum on and off for years

im thinking of getting into projector for the theatre room. right now its an led lg 40"

i was checking on panasonic ae4000u and wondering if anyone had that to compare with the epson.

i read reviews saying that they are pretty close but panasonic is still ahead mostly due to the auto adjusting of the aspect ratio etc

and finally, where in canada can you get the epson one from retail...im in toronto


----------



## Lindros88

I finally got my 9350. I had a few questions though. Is it normal for my input signal to show up as component if I'm using HDMI? Also, how come the black letterbox bars look very gray?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19411273
> 
> 
> Just got my 112" screen in! Know one ever buys GrandView Screens... A rare gem in the wild. Look at that packaging, know more tiny little elite box that the frame comes in 6 pieces crap.



Congrats on the new screen. That size would be ideal for me, but motorised screens (a must for me) are so difficult to get in anything other than 106" and 120" affordably, it seems.

Also, congrats on misspelling a two letter word twice - it's "no".







I wish I had my 8350 and 120" screen already so I could be THAT excited too.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlackoutsBox* /forum/post/19414389
> 
> 
> Oh, and for the other person who wanted the link to hacked GH1 footage, here it is:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO_h_Irqn_4&fmt=37
> 
> 
> Make sure to full screen it!
> 
> 
> Thats 1080p youtube so there is some quality loss from youtube but I promise you it's the best youtube encode you ever saw! You can't imagine how great the 25 mbit master looks on the projector.
> 
> 
> - Blackout



Okay, i'm a sceptic, but you were NOT exaggerating. The textures on the dog's tongue were extremely detailed, just as one of many examples. Great job.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crosswire* /forum/post/19414396
> 
> 
> ive been on this forum on and off for years
> 
> im thinking of getting into projector for the theatre room. right now its an led lg 40"
> 
> i was checking on panasonic ae4000u and wondering if anyone had that to compare with the epson.
> 
> i read reviews saying that they are pretty close but panasonic is still ahead mostly due to the auto adjusting of the aspect ratio etc
> 
> and finally, where in canada can you get the epson one from retail...im in toronto



There is a thread in this very forum about buying an 8350 in Canada. You may have more luck there. Eastporters.com and Quebecacoustic(s) are two popular online retailers so far.

Personally, I think I'm going to get one from Cleveland Plasma and have it shipped to the US-Canada border using my bordermail.us account. I can then drive the 45 mins or so each way, pick it up, pay my taxes on it and save at least $200. Epson has stated that the warranty is valid in Canada on US bought projectors, so why not?


----------



## jorsan

I own the JVC RS1 projector for about 3 years now. I would like to know if buying the 8350 can be considered an upgrade and why. I assume that some of you have first hand experience with the JVCs, so your comments will be greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## eliwankenobi

You could consider it an upgrade in color reproduction, sharpness and brightness as well. But it will be a downgrade in Black Levels. Even though the contrast rating on this unit is 50K:1, it's black levels are still not equal to the original Epson 1080UB (which had the same contrast rating), let alone the RS1.


----------



## jorsan

thanks for your oppinion eliwankenobi


----------



## Falcore1

My wife and I built our movie room, HT in 1986. Yes, it was a projectora very BIG and expensive projector. The room has been in a constant state of evolution ever since. We now enjoy our 8350; it replaced a Panasonic AU900 and made a huge improvement in overall picture quality. Now a question, the Panasonic when turned off ran the fan on high to cool off for about two minutes. The Epson cool off time (with light blinking) is VERY short. Has this been everyone's experience with this unit?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19415460
> 
> 
> My wife and I built our movie room, HT in 1986. Yes, it was a projectora very BIG and expensive projector. The room has been in a constant state of evolution ever since. We now enjoy our 8350; it replaced a Panasonic AU900 and made a huge improvement in overall picture quality. Now a question, the Panasonic when turned off ran the fan on high to cool off for about two minutes. The Epson cool off time (with light blinking) is VERY short. Has this been everyone's experience with this unit?




Don't worry...that's normal. More effective cooling during operational mode means less time needed for cooling down at shut-off.


----------



## Falcore1

Thank you MississippiMan.


----------



## Lindros88

I've heard that after the first 50 hours of use, the picture quality improves. Is this true? If it is true, how much of a difference is there with the picture quality after those first 50 hours?


----------



## CTShooter

Looking forward to getting my 8350. I bought an 8100 several months ago and had some problems. After going back and forth with Epson they agreed to send me a new one...but they kept shipping my refurbs which I didnt want. I got a voice mail the other day saying they are out of new 8100 for replacements so they are sending me an new 8350.


What started out as a problem to which I had to make 4 trips to Fed Ex to return projectors they made it right. Im hoping it comes in the next couple of days.


----------



## jbrentd

How well does the 12v trigger work on the 8350? Plan on sending it to a motorized screen. Any problems with a triger line that will be 40+ feet?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/19416347
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting my 8350. I bought an 8100 several months ago and had some problems. After going back and forth with Epson they agreed to send me a new one...but they kept shipping my refurbs which I didnt want. I got a voice mail the other day saying they are out of new 8100 for replacements so they are sending me an new 8350.
> 
> 
> What started out as a problem to which I had to make 4 trips to Fed Ex to return projectors they made it right. Im hoping it comes in the next couple of days.



You Sir...just received a Boon. The 8350 is a 8100 made to be appreciably "Mo Bedder".










I'm sure we'll be seeing another post from you on this thread PDQ! Just try to not be too embarrassingly profuse in your adoration.


Oh....go ahead....I suppose we can all take it.













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbrentd* /forum/post/19416441
> 
> 
> How well does the 12v trigger work on the 8350? Plan on sending it to a motorized screen. Any problems with a triger line that will be 40+ feet?



Seems to work just fine using a 50'er in one particular recent installation. Just use a good grade of shielded Line and good Mini-Plugs.

*I feel the Earth move....over my head...???*


I just got an email from a recent convert to the 8350 who has a large Home Theater (12 Seats ) with a 6 SVS Sub system that literally can move you about. He stated he thought the H&V lens shift was allowing the PJ's Lens to shift downward 4" to 6" whenever he played a Movie with exceptionally heavy Bass ( Iron Man 2 - LOTRROTK - Prince of Persia ...ergaaaah!... )


Now although I suggested his Ceiling-Mounted 8350's Chief RPA 168 Mount simply needing tightening, I'd thought I broach this subject here amongst other 8350 owners.


Anybody experiencing anything similar during passages that contain extremely high LFE Bass SPLs?


Thanks for any responses in advance.


----------



## mhdiab

Jvc owners have had similar issue and it was solved by putting the packing foam back around the lens. Was more of a vibrating problem. Not sure if something similar would work - something to simply hold it in place. Alternatively are the subs shaking the ceiling? Put them on "platforms" if that is the case to minimize direct vibrations from them.


Just two thoughts on the subject


----------



## eliwankenobi

And the problem is only with lens shift? The pj did not go out of focus?


I remember that the 8100 had a defocusing issue too.


----------



## crosswire

Im debating and need advice on the above 8350 projector for my room size


height is 8' and width is 10'

the length of room to where seating is 16feet.


from calculators online, i was recommended 120inches screen


just wondering what your thoughts are.

this is my first time with a projector

thanks


----------



## pauleyc

I saw a couple of notes about the Chief RPU .. anyone using this mount with the 8350? I have an RPA mount from my old setup and only need the custom plate (SLB168); however its a week or two to get the plate vs. the RPU plate (SLB RPU)delivered in one day for $90 (thank you amazon prime).


Ol' Miss .. I know 168 mo' betta .. but don't want to wait two weeks and can't source anything locally.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/19417728
> 
> 
> 
> Ol' Miss .. I know 168 mo' betta .. but don't want to wait two weeks and can't source anything locally.



Well 'dats just Ok and allrighty then....










Hey! Who ya callin' Ol' ?


----------



## Stocktonaj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking it would be able to do the same downward angle like a DLP does.... Can anybody care to help out with the projector placement. I have my mount ready to go at 10" from the ceiling and my


----------



## Stocktonaj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crosswire* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im debating and need advice on the above 8350 projector for my room size
> 
> 
> height is 8' and width is 10'
> 
> the length of room to where seating is 16feet.
> 
> 
> from calculators online, i was recommended 120inches screen
> 
> 
> just wondering what your thoughts are.
> 
> this is my first time with a projector
> 
> thanks



I would strongly recommend using a screen closer to 100inches with any projector in this price point! Brightness is a top priority before anything else.


----------



## daveinmaryland

THANKS MississippiMan, great feedback.


I currently have the old pj on the coffee table, and haven't had any issues to date, and would consider it in the future if the benefit of being closer to the screen (aka 13' vs. 20') was considerable, being single, the room doesn't get a lot of visitors but I do get concerned when the g-children visit, so, it will go on a shelf in the back of the room. BTW, the ceiling is out of the question because of the ceiling fan in the room.


I'll jump on WorstBuy and see what Sony Blu Ray players they have in stock, and get that purchased also. Thanks again.


By the way everyone, I have used the web for lots of information, cars, electronics, camper repairs, etc, and this is by far the best source for this subject I have ever experienced, keep it up!


----------



## Heavywait

Every thing good I have heard about this pj has been spot on.I have it hitting a light grey wall 130 inches,replacing an Epson cinema 400. This thing is soooo coooll. For the money its such a steal.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stocktonaj* /forum/post/19418693
> 
> 
> I would strongly recommend using a screen closer to 100inches with any projector in this price point! Brightness is a top priority before anything else.



Look through the threads. The 8350 is bright at 120" under most reasonable lighting conditions. This ain't your fathers projector.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crosswire* /forum/post/19417535
> 
> 
> Im debating and need advice on the above 8350 projector for my room size
> 
> 
> height is 8' and width is 10'
> 
> the length of room to where seating is 16feet.
> 
> 
> from calculators online, i was recommended 120inches screen
> 
> 
> just wondering what your thoughts are.
> 
> this is my first time with a projector
> 
> thanks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stocktonaj* /forum/post/19418693
> 
> 
> I would strongly recommend using a screen closer to 100inches with any projector in this price point! Brightness is a top priority before anything else.



Poor advice.


120" would be terrific.


----------



## spaceace414

I received my 8350 on Friday afternoon. I spent part of Saturday finishing my speaker wiring and going to Home Depot to buy some threaded pipe for hanging the projector.


Sunday saw my projector officially turned on! At first I was a bit concerned because the picture just looked "okay"...even in Dynamic mode. I noticed that everything was in 480P...what the heck?!! Then I realized that the DTV receiver had not been correctly configured...a few minutes later and we are watching football in 1080i! It looked great! I was in heaven for sure.


I continued watching for a couple of hours and again started getting concerned. This picture just did not look as bright as my old Sanyo Z2000. I thought this baby was supposed to be bright! The picture was nice...but just a tad darker than I expected. I grabbed the 8350 remote and took a peak...then found that when the HD picture was sent from the DTV receiver, the color mode on the 8350 switched from Dynamic to Natural. That was the AHA moment! I quickly switched the mode over to Dynamic and almost burned my retinas!! Holy freaking WOW! After about 30 seconds of intense pleasure, I had to switch over to Living Room mode...just to save my eyes! Actually, Dynamic as a bit too bright right now...the whites from the sidelines on the field were blinding...I am sure I need to do a bit of adjustments. I will take a look at Arts settings when I get home tonight.


But WOW...what a projector! I am projecting onto a 110" Silver Fire screen (if you don't know what that is, check out the DIY Screen Forum) from about 12' away. The picture is so crisp and clear, I can see the digital noise from the DTV feed! I can't wait to throw a Blu-Ray in when it arrives from Netflix!


Thanks for all the reviews and conversation in this thread...I am a VERY happy camper right now.


----------



## greg1292




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mazda74Speed3* /forum/post/19412933
> 
> 
> 112" Grandview screen is up, it's built like a tank!



Nice looking screen!


----------



## Stocktonaj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Poor advice.
> 
> 
> 120" would be terrific.



Interesting, how many foot lamberts of light did you end up with? Also, what number did you plug in as standard lumen output?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stocktonaj* /forum/post/19419632
> 
> 
> Interesting, how many foot lamberts of light did you end up with? Also, what number did you plug in as standard lumen output?



I'm not relying on a calculator, but that is 13FL at 120" (using 2000ANSI, yes I know it doesn't output that), 100" would give 15FL, not enough difference to matter. Although the 100" would put you closer to the 16FL that the engineers consider optimal for a dark room. So, lets go with 1500ANSI in dynamic mode, that will give you approx. 10.5-11FL. Just under the low recommendation of 12FL's.


The reason (IMO) it was poor advice is mainly your generality of it, that "any" PJ's at this "price point" should all be held to around 100".


What is the distance from PJ to screen would of been a question to ask (we can assume 16', which is what I based my FL output at above). Screen choice? Gain? Ambient light? Dark room? Etc.


However, with all that said..this is what I'm basing my "terrific" statement on.


I am relying on my real life performance and my 140" DIY screen at 16' (producing the same FL as 120" according to the calculator).


But..I can't even watch in dynamic mode as it's far too bright and living room is also a bit too bright and I'm getting to view on natural mode and all this with a bit of ambient light, obviously better when dark.


Anyway..I should of maybe just stated that 120" would be terrific as my opinion and left out the poor advice comment.


----------



## shftup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlackoutsBox* /forum/post/19414389
> 
> 
> Oh, and for the other person who wanted the link to hacked GH1 footage, here it is:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO_h_Irqn_4&fmt=37
> 
> 
> Make sure to full screen it!
> 
> 
> Thats 1080p youtube so there is some quality loss from youtube but I promise you it's the best youtube encode you ever saw! You can't imagine how great the 25 mbit master looks on the projector.
> 
> 
> - Blackout



Thanks....its very gooooood!


----------



## Stocktonaj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not relying on a calculator, but that is 13FL at 120" (using 2000ANSI, yes I know it doesn't output that), 100" would give 15FL, not enough difference to matter. Although the 100" would put you closer to the 16FL that the engineers consider optimal for a dark room. So, lets go with 1500ANSI in dynamic mode, that will give you approx. 10.5-11FL. Just under the low recommendation of 12FL's.
> 
> 
> The reason (IMO) it was poor advice is mainly your generality of it, that "any" PJ's at this "price point" should all be held to around 100".
> 
> 
> What is the distance from PJ to screen would of been a question to ask (we can assume 16', which is what I based my FL output at above). Screen choice? Gain? Ambient light? Dark room? Etc.
> 
> 
> However, with all that said..this is what I'm basing my "terrific" statement on.
> 
> 
> I am relying on my real life performance and my 140" DIY screen at 16' (producing the same FL as 120" according to the calculator).
> 
> 
> But..I can't even watch in dynamic mode as it's far too bright and living room is also a bit too bright and I'm getting to view on natural mode and all this with a bit of ambient light, obviously better when dark.
> 
> 
> Anyway..I should of maybe just stated that 120" would be terrific as my opinion and left out the poor advice comment.



No problem! 14 fl is the minimum acceptable amount. Running this unit outside of dynamic torch mode, the lumen measurement is closer to 550-600. That computes even less fl.


----------



## SeattleSlew

A few questions about the HC8350 from a home theater noobie:


- Just moved into a house that had a ceiling mount at about 9'4" from the wall. Were I to use this mount site, am I limited to a 70" diagonal screen (as calculated on the 8350 calculator)?


- If I my projector for watching sports, am I making a mistake with the 8350 because it doesn't have CFI?


- As for screens, is it overkill to get a Carada screen for the 8350?


Thanks for any and all input


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SeattleSlew* /forum/post/19420556
> 
> 
> A few questions about the HC8350 from a home theater noobie:
> 
> 
> - Just moved into a house that had a ceiling mount at about 9'4" from the wall. Were I to use this mount site, am I limited to a 70" diagonal screen (as calculated on the 8350 calculator)?
> 
> 
> - If I my projector for watching sports, am I making a mistake with the 8350 because it doesn't have CFI?
> 
> 
> - As for screens, is it overkill to get a Carada screen for the 8350?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all input



I am a noob also but I think you can get a bigger screen than 70" from that mount.


Try this calculator....

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


Should be able to get 90" at that range. What about moving the mount?


----------



## SeattleSlew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/19420627
> 
> 
> What about moving the mount?



I am trying not to move the mount because the previous owners' mounting holes and electrical outlet are at the 9'4" distance.


That being said, it seems like a waste to project on a smaller screen when the room would allow for a bigger screen.


----------



## lin000

Got a greenish circle on the bottom of the picture when projecting black. Called for a Whole Unit Replacement from Epson.


----------



## jbpaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19419177
> 
> 
> I can't wait to throw a Blu-Ray in when it arrives from Netflix!



You will be impressed. Make sure you are getting 1080p to your screen from those blu-rays and you will never leave the couch.


I have the same setup and my wife can't understand why I need to watch the World Series in the home theater. Silly girl!


JB


----------



## rossandwendy

Can any owners comment on the IQ when running a Blu-ray player in 24p direct mode to the their 8350?


This has been one of my criteria when considering an upgrade to a 65" plasma because not all TV's perform well in this mode, but am now leaning toward the Epson projector rather than another plasma and hope it does well with 24p film content from my Oppo BDP-83 in 24p direct mode...


Thanks,

Ross


----------



## Lindros88

Can anybody confirm that there is PQ improvement after the first 50 hours of using this projector? I've heard it from a couple of people, but is there really a change?


----------



## dswdallas

SeattleSlew - Looks like you can go to 92" diagonal. Minumum throw for 92" is 9' using the calculator you referenced. Measure carefully and good luck.


----------



## SeattleSlew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dswdallas* /forum/post/19421507
> 
> 
> SeattleSlew - Looks like you can go to 92" diagonal. Minumum throw for 92" is 9' using the calculator you referenced. Measure carefully and good luck.



Thanks - I had not fully appreciated the "Throw Range" on the calculator.


Any thoughts on watching sports on projector without CFI?


----------



## Geek Castle

Quick question for the assembled pundits of projectordom:


Any recommendations on a good ceiling mount for this projector? We realized once we received the Epson that our old ceiling mount is WAY too small.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geek Castle* /forum/post/19421584
> 
> 
> Quick question for the assembled pundits of projectordom:
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a good ceiling mount for this projector? We realized once we received the Epson that our old ceiling mount is WAY too small.



Chief RPA168. Mentioned several times here. It's pricey (over $100), but it's the Cadillac of mounts. Comes with an adjustment 'box' + quick disconnect 'plate' that you mount to the projector.


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stocktonaj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No problem! 14 fl is the minimum acceptable amount. Running this unit outside of dynamic torch mode, the lumen measurement is closer to 550-600. That computes even less fl.



14 fl is minimum according to whom? Haven't measured but sure my RS2 is below this and it looks great but I watch mostly movies on it. What you watch ties into this.....


Then you factor in the room and amount of light there and then personally I use a 1.3 gain many others here are using HP or 1.3+ screens (which I know is taken into account when measuring fl)


----------



## Geek Castle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19421709
> 
> 
> Chief RPA168. Mentioned several times here. It's pricey (over $100), but it's the Cadillac of mounts. Comes with an adjustment 'box' + quick disconnect 'plate' that you mount to the projector.



$100+? Any suggestions on the Toyota Yaris of mounts? IE: not as deluxe but still reasonably functional?


----------



## crosswire

I can get the 8350 for 1356$ but not sure if i want to pull the plug yet.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19420024
> 
> 
> I'm not relying on a calculator, but that is 13FL at 120" (using 2000ANSI, yes I know it doesn't output that), 100" would give 15FL, not enough difference to matter. Although the 100" would put you closer to the 16FL that the engineers consider optimal for a dark room. So, lets go with 1500ANSI in dynamic mode, that will give you approx. 10.5-11FL. Just under the low recommendation of 12FL's.



Math looks a little off - if its a 120" width (not diagonal) 16:9 screen, then the vertical dimension would be 67.5" - 120" x 67.5" = 1,800 square inches - 1800 / 144 = 56.25 square feet - to get 12 ft/lamberts, 56.25 * 12 = 675 lumens; to get to 16 ft/lamberts, 56.25 * 16 = 900 lumens.


In any case, I cant argue with your empirical evidence (your experience), and would agree with the conclusion (although I don't have this projector).


----------



## Shag

I finally got my screen painted, but I'm having problems getting my image squared. Using a level on the PJ, I find it to be level front/back and side/side. I don't know of a good way to ensure it's shooting exactly perpendicular to the screen - any suggestions there?


Anyway, the image is trapezoidal - both sides angle in a bit going from bottom to top (top width is shorter than bottom width). I also find that the picture isn't horizontally level, either - it slopes up slightly from left to right.


Any idea what might be causing this, and how to fix it?


----------



## andrios

Anyone got calibration settings after 100hours in all modes?


Also can someone PM me a good site/store to get replacement bulbs for the 8350. I dont wanna be caught one day without an extra bulb if the original goes out....


p.s I love this thing....no screen yet, on a brown wall this thing is awesome. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, all though it is my first PJ.


----------



## Shag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19422378
> 
> 
> I finally got my screen painted, but I'm having problems getting my image squared. Using a level on the PJ, I find it to be level front/back and side/side. I don't know of a good way to ensure it's shooting exactly perpendicular to the screen - any suggestions there?
> 
> 
> Anyway, the image is trapezoidal - both sides angle in a bit going from bottom to top (top width is shorter than bottom width). I also find that the picture isn't horizontally level, either - it slopes up slightly from left to right.
> 
> 
> Any idea what might be causing this, and how to fix it?



I just had a thought, and went and put a level on my wall - looks like the wall itself isn't perfectly vertical.







FML.


Is there a way I can adjust the picture to accommodate?


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19422378
> 
> 
> I finally got my screen painted, but I'm having problems getting my image squared. Using a level on the PJ, I find it to be level front/back and side/side. I don't know of a good way to ensure it's shooting exactly perpendicular to the screen - any suggestions there?
> 
> 
> Anyway, the image is trapezoidal - both sides angle in a bit going from bottom to top (top width is shorter than bottom width). I also find that the picture isn't horizontally level, either - it slopes up slightly from left to right.
> 
> 
> Any idea what might be causing this, and how to fix it?



haha nvm you got it


----------



## HDeRaNgE

Just a quick word of caution, the screen captures featured in Art's review under the performance section are NOT from the 8350. They are labeled as such but looking at the file names, they come from the Mitsubishi HC4000. I'm guessing these are just being used as placeholders until he can get some actual pics up but never the less, it is slightly misleading.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19422398
> 
> 
> I just had a thought, and went and put a level on my wall - looks like the wall itself isn't perfectly vertical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FML.
> 
> 
> Is there a way I can adjust the picture to accommodate?



You need to get the projector square to the wall, whether it is vertical or not.


Easiest way to to raise the front of the projector and use lens shift until the picture is square. Easy if you are using a ceiling mount. probably something like a stack of index cards if you are table mounted.


Same with the horizontal angle. Just lift the offending side slightly.


----------



## MississippiMan

He has a Chief RPA Mount with Pitch & Yaw adjustments that can be extremely fine tuned.


Shag, as long as you can get the image to within 1/2" squared H-or-V,(1/4" out on each side) let the Velvet masking gobble up any slight over spill. 'Tis what it's there for...besides a reference Black and it's good looks.


----------



## Falcore1

The detail and overall image that the 8350 produces is so good that I am thinking about a bigger screen.

I currently have a 92 diag white 1.0 screen and 16' throw, no light issues seating about 14' from screen.

If I use a 120 would there be noticeable image loss or detail from my 8350?


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SeattleSlew* /forum/post/19420556
> 
> 
> A few questions about the HC8350 from a home theater noobie:
> 
> 
> - Just moved into a house that had a ceiling mount at about 9'4" from the wall. Were I to use this mount site, am I limited to a 70" diagonal screen (as calculated on the 8350 calculator)?
> 
> 
> - If I my projector for watching sports, am I making a mistake with the 8350 because it doesn't have CFI?
> 
> 
> - As for screens, is it overkill to get a Carada screen for the 8350?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all input



I use the Carada BW 110in.Excellent screen and their service and support is famous for being the best.I would ad that the screen is more important than the projector.I have had 6 fp in my HT room.But only one screen the Carada.It does make a difference,


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19423075
> 
> 
> He has a Chief RPA Mount with Pitch & Yaw adjustments that can be extremely fine tuned.
> 
> 
> Shag, as long as you can get the image to within 1/2" squared H-or-V,(1/4" out on each side) let the Velvet masking gobble up any slight over spill. 'Tis what it's there for...besides a reference Black and it's good looks.



Also be aware that there is an "alignment box" that can be thrown onto the screen by pushing the appropriate button on the remote. The button on the remote is called "Pattern".


Too bad that I did not notice this button until I nearly had my projector all setup...but it still helped a lot!


----------



## Shag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19423075
> 
> 
> He has a Chief RPA Mount with Pitch & Yaw adjustments that can be extremely fine tuned.
> 
> 
> Shag, as long as you can get the image to within 1/2" squared H-or-V,(1/4" out on each side) let the Velvet masking gobble up any slight over spill. 'Tis what it's there for...besides a reference Black and it's good looks.



Yeah, that's the plan. I messed with it a bit last night, but I have to re-mount the projector later this week, anyway, so I left it be for the time being. I think I'll probably end up with the PJ tilted upwards just a little to try and counteract the keystoning. It's not going to be a perfectly square image regardless, but I highly doubt it will be noticeable with real content. I wish my builder knew how to build a perpendicular wall, though, lol...


----------



## Shag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/19424048
> 
> 
> Also be aware that there is an "alignment box" that can be thrown onto the screen by pushing the appropriate button on the remote. The button on the remote is called "Pattern".
> 
> 
> Too bad that I did not notice this button until I nearly had my projector all setup...but it still helped a lot!



That's actually what I've been using for alignment. For me, it's a depressing image, lol...


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcore1* /forum/post/19423632
> 
> 
> The detail and overall image that the 8350 produces is so good that I am thinking about a bigger screen.
> 
> I currently have a 92 diag white 1.0 screen and 16' throw, no light issues seating about 14' from screen.
> 
> If I use a 120 would there be noticeable image loss or detail from my 8350?



My 8350 is mounted on the ceiling at about 15" away from a 117" screen and I have no issues. I have a light controlled room and run in Cinema mode because Dynamic burns my eyes. My screen has a rated gain about 1.3.

I suspect another 3 inches shouldn't be dramatically different.


----------



## colt54qg

If im using this projector in a room with some ambient light during the day what screen should I buy, both size and gain?


My throw is 15ft and I was wanting to do a 110' diagonal screen size.


Thanks


----------



## daveinmaryland

Placed my order yesterday with Shawn at ProjectorPoint.com, $1199.00. I checked with AV Outlet about my current 110" screen, (home made), and the fabric on my screen is the one of the materials recommended for the 8350, (High Contrast Cinema Vision), the other was DaMat. Checked with UPS, Thursday UPS-Claus should be arriving with my Xmas package.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stocktonaj* /forum/post/19420416
> 
> 
> No problem! 14 fl is the minimum acceptable amount. Running this unit outside of dynamic torch mode, the lumen measurement is closer to 550-600. That computes even less fl.



No argument there. If I had a light meter, it would be interesting to see what output is at the screen.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhdiab* /forum/post/19421722
> 
> 
> 14 fl is minimum according to whom? Haven't measured but sure my RS2 is below this and it looks great but I watch mostly movies on it. What you watch ties into this.....
> 
> 
> Then you factor in the room and amount of light there and then personally I use a 1.3 gain many others here are using HP or 1.3+ screens (which I know is taken into account when measuring fl)



12FL is the minimum according to SMTPE from what I have read, could be old info?


You're correct. You need to factor in screen gain into the equation. The minimum standard is with the room being "dark".



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19422001
> 
> 
> Math looks a little off - if its a 120" width (not diagonal) 16:9 screen, then the vertical dimension would be 67.5" - 120" x 67.5" = 1,800 square inches - 1800 / 144 = 56.25 square feet - to get 12 ft/lamberts, 56.25 * 12 = 675 lumens; to get to 16 ft/lamberts, 56.25 * 16 = 900 lumens.
> 
> 
> In any case, I cant argue with your empirical evidence (your experience), and would agree with the conclusion (although I don't have this projector).



120" diagonal=13FL just according to the projector central calculator, width at 105", height at 59".


I was worried about purchasing this because of the calculated FL (especially since the calculator is at 2000ANSI and it tested much lower). I am very surprised that I can't even watch it in dynamic without retina burn... well, I suppose I can if I turn on a lot of lights.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19425179
> 
> 
> 
> I was worried about purchasing this because of the calculated FL (especially since the calculator is at 2000ANSI and it tested much lower). I am very surprised that I can't even watch it in dynamic without retina burn... well, I suppose I can if I turn on a lot of lights.



That's because by comparison to other similar PJs, the disparity in published Lumens and actual Lumens is not nearly as great.


I have found that the PC Screen calculator is very accurate and dependable, although as far as when I construct a larger Screen, I always do my own math as far as determining my chosen Format's size.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19424800
> 
> 
> If im using this projector in a room with some ambient light during the day what screen should I buy, both size and gain?
> 
> 
> My throw is 15ft and I was wanting to do a 110' diagonal screen size.
> 
> 
> Thanks



110" is fine. Go with a HCCV Screen (High Contrast Gray)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shag* /forum/post/19424088
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's the plan. I messed with it a bit last night, but I have to re-mount the projector later this week, anyway, so I left it be for the time being. I think I'll probably end up with the PJ tilted upwards just a little to try and counteract the keystoning. It's not going to be a perfectly square image regardless, but I highly doubt it will be noticeable with real content. I wish my builder knew how to build a perpendicular wall, though, lol...



Actually, you should be able to get the image almost dead on. You just have to match the angle of the Lens with the angle of the wall as closely as possible. Adjust the Screws so they are tight, but still not so much as that you cannot move the PJ up into a position where you can see the vertical line of the image come into "true". Then take some of the Wife's finger nail polish and paint a little line along the intersection of the Mount's Top/Bottom Clam shell. Let this Dry and then remove the PJ...make sure the painted line is exactly positioned, then tighten every thing down.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19425179
> 
> 
> 120" diagonal=13FL just according to the projector central calculator, width at 105", height at 59".



Sounds about right, I was assuming 120" wide, not diagonal.


One other factor to consider would be the throw distance, since mounting further back will lose you some output, vs. up close (for a given screen size) - I wonder if any of the calculators include this factor (which differs between projectors) in their calculations.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19425594
> 
> 
> Sounds about right, I was assuming 120" wide, not diagonal.
> 
> 
> One other factor to consider would be the throw distance, since mounting further back will lose you some output, vs. up close (for a given screen size) - I wonder if any of the calculators include this factor (which differs between projectors) in their calculations.




Certainly they do...leastwise the one here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ulator-pro.cfm


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19425667
> 
> 
> Certainly they do...leastwise the one here:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ulator-pro.cfm



Ah right you are, haven't looked at that one for a while.


----------



## mike734

I'm loving my 8350 but I have one question. On the rear panel there is a 12 volt trigger out port. I understand I can use that port to control some other device via a switched outlet. What I'm asking is: Are there other alternatives to the Niles AC-3 outlet? http://www.amazon.com/Niles-Black-FG.../dp/B00086IDDC


----------



## vanz

I picked on of these up at my local best buy for 10% off MSRP using a mover's coupon I picked up from my post office. No sales tax










The reason I also chose to go through best buy was because as of Nov. 1st for the holiday season, they are extending the return period until 30 days after christmas rather than the usual 30 days.


Okay first impressions........I don't like it. It didn't give me the wow factor I was expecting from all of these positive reviews...however, I only have tried it with a regular DVD player and on just a composite? video cable. It was an absolute mess with s-video. Can anyone tell me why connecting through s-video is worthless on this $1000+ machine? Is my unit defective if it does not cooperate using s-video? Tried it on the Nintendo Wii and the entire image just starts shifting everywhere. The whites were wayyy over saturated. S-video was the first thing I tried and was ready to rule the projector off as a POS, until I remember something mentioning S-video not cooperating. S-video worked fine on my 5 year old sharp notevision.


lens shifting was another issue I ran across. On a coffee table, I can't even cover the screen all the way to the top of a 100" diagonal screen sitting 14' away. The bottom of the screen is probably 8" above the lens. One thing I noticed was lens shifting down was more giving. I could project all the way down to the floor. Not sure why shifting up is giving me a hard time.


If this is the case, how will it work being upside down on the ceiling?


I really want to sort through these problems before hanging it up. I will also pick up a blu ray player tonight to see if it really makes a big difference.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19426656
> 
> 
> I picked on of these up at my local best buy for 10% off MSRP using a mover's coupon I picked up from my post office. No sales tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay first impressions........I don't like it. It didn't give me the wow factor I was expecting from all of these positive reviews...however, I only have tried it with a regular DVD player and on just a composite? video cable. It was an absolute mess with s-video. Can anyone tell me why connecting through s-video is worthless on this $1000+ machine? Is my unit defective if it does not cooperate using s-video? Tried it on the Nintendo Wii and the entire image just starts shifting everywhere. The whites were wayyy over saturated. S-video was the first thing I tried and was ready to rule the projector off as a POS, until I remember something mentioning S-video not cooperating. S-video worked fine on my 5 year old sharp notevision.
> 
> 
> lens shifting was another issue I ran across. On a coffee table, I can't even cover the screen all the way to the top of a 100" diagonal screen sitting 14' away. The bottom of the screen is probably 8" above the lens. One thing I noticed was lens shifting down was more giving. I could project all the way down to the floor. Not sure why shifting up is giving me a hard time.
> 
> 
> If this is the case, how will it work being upside down on the ceiling?




Seems to. It's hard to keep from making some type of adverse comment about someone complaining about image quality and other issues when outputting a 4801 / 480p signal into a PJ that sports 1080p resolution. Kinda like presenting a Bouquet of Thorns to your Date, the Prom Queen. You are NOT gonna get lucky. And I just gotta ask this....did you remove the Foam Packing Ring around the Lens? Something is amiss because the 8350 has 2x the Screen height each direction from dead center of vertical Lens Shift.




> Quote:
> I really want to sort through these problems before hanging it up. I will also pick up a blu ray player tonight to see if it really makes a big difference.



That should do it...but it might be of some small degree of help if you pick up a Blu-Ray title as well. And a HDMI cord. And set up the PJ and the Blu-Ray correctly.


If you do all that your tune will come out sounding a bit sweeter.


----------



## chuckg1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19426656
> 
> 
> I picked on of these up at my local best buy for 10% off MSRP using a mover's coupon I picked up from my post office. No sales tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I also chose to go through best buy was because as of Nov. 1st for the holiday season, they are extending the return period until 30 days after christmas rather than the usual 30 days.
> 
> 
> Okay first impressions........I don't like it. It didn't give me the wow factor I was expecting from all of these positive reviews...however, I only have tried it with a regular DVD player and on just a composite? video cable. It was an absolute mess with s-video. Can anyone tell me why connecting through s-video is worthless on this $1000+ machine? Is my unit defective if it does not cooperate using s-video? Tried it on the Nintendo Wii and the entire image just starts shifting everywhere. The whites were wayyy over saturated. S-video was the first thing I tried and was ready to rule the projector off as a POS, until I remember something mentioning S-video not cooperating. S-video worked fine on my 5 year old sharp notevision.
> 
> 
> lens shifting was another issue I ran across. On a coffee table, I can't even cover the screen all the way to the top of a 100" diagonal screen sitting 14' away. The bottom of the screen is probably 8" above the lens. One thing I noticed was lens shifting down was more giving. I could project all the way down to the floor. Not sure why shifting up is giving me a hard time.
> 
> 
> If this is the case, how will it work being upside down on the ceiling?
> 
> 
> I really want to sort through these problems before hanging it up. I will also pick up a blu ray player tonight to see if it really makes a big difference.




Did you ever hear of the saying "garbage in, garbage out"? Any hdtv display truly shines with a high resolution source and the best connection, eg; hdmi or component inputs.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19426926
> 
> 
> Seems to. It's hard to keep from making some type of adverse comment about someone complaining about image quality and other issues when outputting a 4801 / 480p signal into a PJ that sports 1080p resolution. Kinda like presenting a Bouquet of Thorns to your Date, the Prom Queen. You are NOT gonna get lucky. And I just gotta ask this....did you remove the Foam Packing Ring around the Lens? Something is amiss because the 8350 has 2x the Screen height each direction from dead center of vertical Lens Shift.



Lol good analogy. I was planning a blu ray all along, but didn't get a chance to pick one up last night...or couldn't decide on what to get. So as just a test, I hooked it up to the dvd player. Remember I hooked it up to the s-video first...if I didn't know any better, I would have boxed it up and returned it, it was that bad (top of image had distortions, lines running everywhere, image shifting, bright whites...etc.) I really need some sort of connection other than HDMI for the Wii since my receiver does not have HDMI. So I guess I'll have to buy a 25 ft. composite cord. But the real question is.....why is S-video crap on this projector?


Yes, I did remove the foam ring. I'll be tweaking it some more tonight, hopefully it's just a fluke.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19426926
> 
> 
> That should do it...but it might be of some small degree of help if you pick up a Blu-Ray title as well. And a HDMI cord. And set up the PJ and the Blu-Ray correctly.
> 
> 
> If you do all that your tune will come out sounding a bit sweeter.



lol, yes a blu ray title would help. I'm thinking of picking up iron man 2 for the first viewing. This will be my first 1080p anything so hopefully it will blow me away. I have a 25' HDMI cord ready as well.


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19408931
> 
> 
> I have that mount too. It seems stable enough for me. I might add a safety cable also, but apart from that its fine. Especially for the price



Don't you find that the three holes are not enough? It seems like there is too much stress being placed on the three screws. Did you attach it like the previous poster?


----------



## Bsims2719

Wow, someone on this forum using composite video cables.


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bsims2719* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, someone on this forum using composite video cables.



I assume he means component cables


----------



## indybrian

I have been trying to make sure I have the placement issues correct but it is turning out to be confusing.


Here is what I want to do: 100" diagonal screen, ceiling mounted projector, at 10' throw, dedicated room, no ambient light.


The 8350 user manual says: throw distance of 9.8 to 20.9 feet will enable a 100" screen, and that the max shift from center of screen to bottom of screen is 71.7"


The throw distance calculator form the Epson website http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 

says that at a 10' throw distance 100" screen with projector 24" from ceiling I will get a max shift of 72" from center of screen


The calculator at projector central
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 

says I can get a max 77" screen at 10' throw, but does not address shift. Big difference from the 100" that I want.


I would like to have the projector hang no more that 24" from the ceiling. This puts the lens roughly at 96". With a max shift of 72" (from Epson calculator) that ables me to shift to 24" from the floor. I want to set the screen at 28" from the floor. Is this correct?


Thanks!


Brian


----------



## mstokes

Hi,


I am thinking about the 8350 and a 134" or 150" 16x9 1.4 gain ElunVision screen.

the room is 100% light controlled (basement).

Seating can be adjusted anywhere from 10 to 30 feet from screen.

Projector can be mounted at any throw distance (unfinished celing at the moment)


I am hoping the 8350 is bright enough for 134"


thanks for the tips


----------



## phussey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bsims2719* /forum/post/19427257
> 
> 
> Wow, someone on this forum using composite video cables.



Check how many posts he's made.


----------



## pauleyc

To recap, I already had an RPA mount for my Sony HS20 that the 8350replaced, so I just ordered the SLB-U which is the universal plate. While I wished I could get the SLb-168 locally (the exact plate for this Unit), I must say that I *really* like the universal. Not only is it super secure, it gives me the piece of mind that the next projector won't require an additional investment in a new mount. I highly recommend the RPA/SLB-U.


----------



## CTShooter

I originally had an 8100 - had many problems and Epson finally agreed to send me a new 8100, not a refurb. They then notified me that they had no more new 8100 so they sent me a brand new 8350 (Yipee!) - I set it up today and it seems I have another problem.


The left side of my picture is shorter then the right. It is likethe right side of the picture stretches out...


Example - If I line up the picture in both the left and right hand corners, the right corners will be higher on top, and lower on the bottom.


I did not have this problem with the 8100. The mount, screen, and projector are all level. Since I know of no way to fix this type of size problem I figure I would ask here.


Any suggestions?


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I originally had an 8100 - had many problems and Epson finally agreed to send me a new 8100, not a refurb. They then notified me that they had no more new 8100 so they sent me a brand new 8350 (Yipee!) - I set it up today and it seems I have another problem.
> 
> 
> The left side of my picture is shorter then the right. It is likethe right side of the picture stretches out...
> 
> 
> Example - If I line up the picture in both the left and right hand corners, the right corners will be higher on top, and lower on the bottom.
> 
> 
> I did not have this problem with the 8100. The mount, screen, and projector are all level. Since I know of no way to fix this type of size problem I figure I would ask here.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Figured out my problem - when pitting up the new projector I turned the mount a little so the projector was not facing the screen straight.


----------



## eliwankenobi

Yes, you were causing a trapezoid...you could have used keystoning to correct that but that is never recomended.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19427169
> 
> 
> Lol good analogy. I was planning a blu ray all along, but didn't get a chance to pick one up last night...or couldn't decide on what to get. So as just a test, I hooked it up to the dvd player. Remember I hooked it up to the s-video first...if I didn't know any better, I would have boxed it up and returned it, it was that bad (top of image had distortions, lines running everywhere, image shifting, bright whites...etc.) I really need some sort of connection other than HDMI for the Wii since my receiver does not have HDMI. So I guess I'll have to buy a 25 ft. composite cord. But the real question is.....why is S-video crap on this projector?




Your DVD, it must be few years old for it not to have an hdmi output. Anyways, it should be able to output 480p through component and that would give you better image quality. The same with your Wii, when used with component you can set it to 480p and it will give a better image.


About the s-video lines, It sounds to me like you are seeing the effects of a bad (not very efficient) de-interlacer.


The S-video cable was good back when vhs and CRT TVs ruled (analog technology) as it could carry more video signal than composite but it was still interlaced, which is the way CRTs display an image. This is a digital display and it can only display progressive images. If you feed it with a 480i signal its gonna have to de- interlace it....and this is an entry level projector. The video processor on this projector is very simple, although it upscales the image for its 1080p resolution, it will not do much in terms of deinterlacing and upgrading image quality. For that you would need to go to the high $2k to $3k range where projectors there have Reon HQV processors and the like that would do a much better work at deinterlacing and cleaning up the image of interlaced sources.


Get your blu-ray player and hook it up with hdmi and feed that baby with a 1080p signal.....the difference is picture quality will be dramatic! Even your older DVDs should look better through your blu-ray player.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frollo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you find that the three holes are not enough? It seems like there is too much stress being placed on the three screws. Did you attach it like the previous poster?



Yes the same. Seems ok to me


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> Can anyone tell me why connecting through s-video is worthless on this $1000+ machine? Is my unit defective if it does not cooperate using s-video? Tried it on the Nintendo Wii and the entire image just starts shifting everywhere. The whites were wayyy over saturated. S-video was the first thing I tried and was ready to rule the projector off as a POS, until I remember something mentioning S-video not cooperating.



For the Wii I would suggest buying the component cable which I'm sure will largely improve the picture quality.


In regards to your S-Video/composite problem, you may want to make sure that both system are set to the same standard, NTSC for US or PAL for EU. This can cause the image to go crazy. Despite that I would expect the picture to be mediocre but not to the point of not being usable as you described.


----------



## Frollo

Joy oh Joy. I got the monoprice mount today - after reading that it didn't work all that well. I decided to play around a bit and find a mod that would work. I came up with a simple mod using 4 2" brackets which I used to extend each arm by about 3/4". I attached them to the arms using a nut/bolt and washer.


It works great - very solid all around.


Oh, and the picture out of this machine is *outstanding*. It blows my old Panny AX100U out of the water. No comparison. We watched part of Iron Man 1 - looked unbelievable. So happy.


Here are some pictures of the modified monoprice mount in case anyone is interested.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625301526364/


----------



## flexed2death

Got my chief RPA-U mount and am trying to decide if I want to flush mount it or get a extension arm. My room has 8' ceilings and I was wondering if anyone is using the RPA-U flush mounted with the 8350? Is vertical lense shift an issue? I don't plan on using much if any horizontal lense shift and will be projecting from approx. 17' onto a 106" screen. Any potential cooling issues?


----------



## SeattleSlew

For the 8350 owners, can I get your opinion of image quality for fast moving sports?


----------



## SmoothGS

Is there anyway to reduce and cut the height of any of the Monoprice mounts? I'd like to get it as flsuh mount as possible, since I have less than an 8' ceiling and will be adding a riser near the projector mount location.

Thanks!!


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19427169
> 
> 
> Lol good analogy. I was planning a blu ray all along, but didn't get a chance to pick one up last night...or couldn't decide on what to get. So as just a test, I hooked it up to the dvd player. Remember I hooked it up to the s-video first...if I didn't know any better, I would have boxed it up and returned it, it was that bad (top of image had distortions, lines running everywhere, image shifting, bright whites...etc.) I really need some sort of connection other than HDMI for the Wii since my receiver does not have HDMI. So I guess I'll have to buy a 25 ft. composite cord. But the real question is.....why is S-video crap on this projector?
> 
> 
> Yes, I did remove the foam ring. I'll be tweaking it some more tonight, hopefully it's just a fluke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, yes a blu ray title would help. I'm thinking of picking up iron man 2 for the first viewing. This will be my first 1080p anything so hopefully it will blow me away. I have a 25' HDMI cord ready as well.



You're definitely a candidate to hire the BB geek squad to hook up all of your equipment.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You're definitely a candidate to hire the BB geek squad to hook up all of your equipment.



Ouch. Below the belt. The poster found avs right....that's a good start.


----------



## SeattleSlew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19429589
> 
> 
> You're definitely a candidate to hire the BB geek squad to hook up all of your equipment.



Nothing like picking on a noobie. The guy is just entering the world of 1080p. Back off.


Here I thought I had found an intelligent, useful forum. Comments like this remind me of a grade school pissing contest.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19428137
> 
> 
> Your DVD, it must be few years old for it not to have an hdmi output. Anyways, it should be able to output 480p through component and that would give you better image quality. The same with your Wii, when used with component you can set it to 480p and it will give a better image.
> 
> 
> About the s-video lines, It sounds to me like you are seeing the effects of a bad (not very efficient) de-interlacer.
> 
> 
> The S-video cable was good back when vhs and CRT TVs ruled (analog technology) as it could carry more video signal than composite but it was still interlaced, which is the way CRTs display an image. This is a digital display and it can only display progressive images. If you feed it with a 480i signal its gonna have to de- interlace it....and this is an entry level projector. The video processor on this projector is very simple, although it upscales the image for its 1080p resolution, it will not do much in terms of deinterlacing and upgrading image quality. For that you would need to go to the high $2k to $3k range where projectors there have Reon HQV processors and the like that would do a much better work at deinterlacing and cleaning up the image of interlaced sources.
> 
> 
> Get your blu-ray player and hook it up with hdmi and feed that baby with a 1080p signal.....the difference is picture quality will be dramatic! Even your older DVDs should look better through your blu-ray player.



Thanks for the input, rather than just belittle like some people on this board







. Yeah, this DVD player is really old, probably 2002 or so. I don't really follow the latest and greatest in home entertainment, and have just settled with DVD until my old projector crapped out. Then started reading up on new projectors and finally settled on this rather than the Optoma HD20. Not really a techy person, but do like to watch things on big screen.


I got everything to work last night. Seems like the connection from the receiver to the projector was what caused the crazy image. So I just went directly from the dvd player to the projector and all was fine.


Lens shift worked great this time around. While it was off, I just turned it all the way to max both ways to loosen the knob a couple of times and then set it midway. When I turned the projector on, it was almost dead center to my screen.


Got the blu ray player hooked up and it just blew me away! Night and day difference between the two. Images are sooo crisp on this projector. I'm a big fan of this now.


Thanks for setting me straight on s-video...I will be picking up some component cables to connect the Wii.


Since everything appears to work great, I will be now mounting it to the ceiling using an NPL Series Projector Ceiling Mount from mountdirect.com










Hmm, maybe geek squad can mount it for me


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Congratulations on getting it sorted out vanz, have fun with it!


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SeattleSlew* /forum/post/19429899
> 
> 
> Nothing like picking on a noobie. The guy is just entering the world of 1080p. Back off.
> 
> 
> Here I thought I had found an intelligent, useful forum. Comments like this remind me of a grade school pissing contest.



Geez.. just offering the guy some advice before he trashes a great PJ for what appeared to be a lack of knowledge by his post.


This *is* a great place and nothing was meant by my comment for him to get his system set up by professionals.


At least SeattleSlew was a great race horse.










Anyway.. glad it's worked out.


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bsims2719* /forum/post/19427257
> 
> 
> Wow, someone on this forum using composite video cables.



I'm still using composite for my laser disc player. HDMI for the PS3 and Cable DVR.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19430416
> 
> 
> I'm still using composite for my laser disc player. HDMI for the PS3 and Cable DVR.



we loved our original laser disc player. I'm sure yours is better, our original one was the large double sided discs that you had to turn over half way through the movie. We had some classics - Stripes, Return of the Pink Panther, On Golden Pond, Charlie Brown.


----------



## rajveen

i've got a pretty rudimentary question on the RPA mount. Is there a back or front to the mount? Does it matter which way i mount it? It will just affect the way i slide the 168 plate into the RPA. Does it matter if it slides in from front to back vs the other way.


----------



## copter17

I went to H.H. Gregg this morning and bought an Epson 8350. I asked if they had the 20% off sale a few weeks ago. The salesman said yes they had and would be doing the same starting tomorrow and that he could give it to me today. I asked about $75 off for signing up on their mailing list and he said he didn't know anything about that but gave an addition $50 off for siging up for their credit card. So the final price was $999.00 plus Tennessee sales tax. I was happy and signed up.


I now need a blu-ray player and hdmi cable. I would appreciate advice on what player to get and where to get cables. I need about a 30 foot run. I'm low on cash so I'm looking at the lower end of the Blu-rays. Thanks


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19429456
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to reduce and cut the height of any of the Monoprice mounts? I'd like to get it as flsuh mount as possible, since I have less than an 8' ceiling and will be adding a riser near the projector mount location.
> 
> Thanks!!



Not that I can see. The one I got, has the "tube" tightly screwed into the base on one end, and welded on the other. The metal is pretty heavy gauge so I think it would be hard to cut without proper equipment. If you did, you would need to rethread the end or weld it back on the plate which attaches to your ceiling.


If you need a low profile mount, did you consider this one (mount 4" from ceiling):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220682262953 


I have this one on order as I thought the monoprice one would not work (it does since I modified it). So I'll have an extra mount.


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19430855
> 
> 
> I went to H.H. Gregg this morning and bought an Epson 8350. I asked if they had the 20% off sale a few weeks ago. The salesman said yes they had and would be doing the same starting tomorrow and that he could give it to me today. I asked about $75 off for signing up on their mailing list and he said he didn't know anything about that but gave an addition $50 off for siging up for their credit card. So the final price was $999.00 plus Tennessee sales tax. I was happy and signed up.
> 
> 
> I now need a blu-ray player and hdmi cable. I would appreciate advice on what player to get and where to get cables. I need about a 30 foot run. I'm low on cash so I'm looking at the lower end of the Blu-rays. Thanks



Good deal, glad to see its coming back. Bluray players are personal preference IMO. Some are faster than others, some of offer apps and different streaming capabilities, but I think picture quality wise they are very similar. Use to be a big debate about which player was the best when everything was analog, but not so much anymore. I have an entry level Sony and Panasonic and have no complaints (other than speed).


MONOPRICE .. do people really shop anywhere else for cables????


----------



## SmoothGS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frollo* /forum/post/19430973
> 
> 
> Not that I can see. The one I got, has the "tube" tightly screwed into the base on one end, and welded on the other. The metal is pretty heavy gauge so I think it would be hard to cut without proper equipment. If you did, you would need to rethread the end or weld it back on the plate which attaches to your ceiling.
> 
> 
> If you need a low profile mount, did you consider this one (mount 4" from ceiling):
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220682262953
> 
> 
> I have this one on order as I thought the monoprice one would not work (it does since I modified it). So I'll have an extra mount.



Yes I saw that one on ebay, I may pick that one up, every inch counts!


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19430094
> 
> 
> Congratulations on getting it sorted out vanz, have fun with it!



Oh I will







The first blu ray movie I tried (rental) was scratched or something so it kept pausing.



Question for people who bought their projector using their Amex card to extend the manufacturers warranty for another year...will this cover the bulb as well? I think I read somewhere Epson will cover the bulb within their 2 year warranty now, is that correct? I'm also new to credit cards extending manufacturer's warranty as well.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19430855
> 
> 
> I went to H.H. Gregg this morning and bought an Epson 8350. I asked if they had the 20% off sale a few weeks ago. The salesman said yes they had and would be doing the same starting tomorrow and that he could give it to me today. I asked about $75 off for signing up on their mailing list and he said he didn't know anything about that but gave an addition $50 off for siging up for their credit card. So the final price was $999.00 plus Tennessee sales tax. I was happy and signed up.
> 
> 
> I now need a blu-ray player and hdmi cable. I would appreciate advice on what player to get and where to get cables. I need about a 30 foot run. I'm low on cash so I'm looking at the lower end of the Blu-rays. Thanks



Too bad we don't have a HH Gregg over on the west side. Those deals were insane!


Cables go to monoprice,

cheap blu ray player...sams club or the Big C, gotta love their warranty.


----------



## Lindros88

Framed movie posters in my theater room are going to cause huge reflection issues aren't they?


----------



## flexed2death




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19431509
> 
> 
> Framed movie posters in my theater room are going to cause huge reflection issues aren't they?



I had issues with this and had to move the spots where I put them to avoid the reflection.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad we don't have a HH Gregg over on the west side. Those deals were insane!
> 
> 
> Cables go to monoprice,
> 
> cheap blu ray player...sams club or the Big C, gotta love their warranty.



+1. SAMs or Costco and take it back if you don't like it. Blu ray is getting to a decent price point these days. Or get a ps3...but let's not start that discussion over which is best in here


----------



## copter17

I just ordered my cable from Monoprice. Thanks for the tip now all I have to do is get a blu-ray.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19432150
> 
> 
> I just ordered my cable from Monoprice. Thanks for the tip now all I have to do is get a blu-ray.



Monitor the thread below for blu-ray deals.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...40629&page=409 


.


----------



## jfried

Well, finally time to replace the faithful Optima H30. Bulb is fading fast, and rather than buy a new bulb, it is time to replace the PJ. Ordered the Epson 8350 today. Coincidentally, my universal player (Denon 2900, I'm a fan of SACD and Audio DVD) has started to not work after heating up, so ordered a refurbed Oppo 83SE.


Here are the basics: Cathedral ceiling, pull down screen is a DaLite something or another, don't remember exactly, but is the reflective one with a bit of gain. Of course, the old Optima is the brightest pj on earth, so I needed the gain with light not totally controlled in the room.


Layout is: PJ is ceiling mounted 13' from screen, couch (seating) is 17' from screen. PJ is 8' 6" up from floor, top of screen is 7' up from floor. Screen is 96" wide (not diagonal).


-------


The little research I did made me believe the 8350 will be OK with this layout - any reason to think otherwise?


I'm hoping the high gain screen will be OK if not optimal, no?


I'll eventually run HDMI from the new Oppo to the PJ, but in the meantime will use existing component, OK?


I have a large library of DVD movies, any comments on PJ setup for largely legacy DVD play?


Wow, can't wait, just checked and realized I bought the H30 in 2004, guess I was due for an upgrade, eh? Can't wait. Appreciate any suggestions...


John F

LV, NV


----------



## eliwankenobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *vanz* 
Thanks for the input, rather than just belittle like some people on this board







. Yeah, this DVD player is really old, probably 2002 or so. I don't really follow the latest and greatest in home entertainment, and have just settled with DVD until my old projector crapped out. Then started reading up on new projectors and finally settled on this rather than the Optoma HD20. Not really a techy person, but do like to watch things on big screen.


I got everything to work last night. Seems like the connection from the receiver to the projector was what caused the crazy image. So I just went directly from the dvd player to the projector and all was fine.


Lens shift worked great this time around. While it was off, I just turned it all the way to max both ways to loosen the knob a couple of times and then set it midway. When I turned the projector on, it was almost dead center to my screen.


Got the blu ray player hooked up and it just blew me away! Night and day difference between the two. Images are sooo crisp on this projector. I'm a big fan of this now.


Thanks for setting me straight on s-video...I will be picking up some component cables to connect the Wii.



Hmm, maybe geek squad can mount it for me








I'm glad that I was able to help and that you got it working!!


Good find on the s-video issue. I thought it was the de-interlacer from the video processor on this unit, but yes...a bad cable or component in the signal path can make an image look bad, even with hdmi too.


Have you considered upgrading to a new A/V receiver with HDMI switching?


They are very common and at very affordable prices these days. Some may let you connect your Wii through component and out through HDMI to your projector. That way your Wii and Blu-Ray player go to the A/V receiver and only one HDMI cable goes from the receiver to the Projector. Also, depending on what speakers you have...you could really benefit from high def audio!! but that's for another thread










Enjoy your projector!


----------



## WithAlligators

Here's an interesting little story. I was in HHgreg yesterday. They had one 8350 left, and I managed to get the manager to give it to me for $965. They also accidentally printed in their flyers that the PS3 160gb (normally 299) were selling for 199. Because of Sony price fixing, they couldn't honor that cash price, but instead were giving out $100 gift cards. So I bought two. Pretty nice deal right? Ah, but the story gets better. So, I'm on the way home, not speeding or anything, and I get pulled over for the first time in 6 years. Turns out my tags had expired. As I am out of the country a lot, I tend to forget these domestic issues. So, the cop has me towed ($200+, and hits me for a 150+ ticket). Bam, there goes any savings I had. Karma I guess. Now I have to decide If I want to sell the PJ and the PS3s to try and recoup at all, or if I ought to just keep the PJ and enjoy it and sell the PSs. Oh well.


----------



## mike734

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* 
we loved our original laser disc player. I'm sure yours is better, our original one was the large double sided discs that you had to turn over half way through the movie. We had some classics - Stripes, Return of the Pink Panther, On Golden Pond, Charlie Brown.
LOL The later ones didn't require you to turn the disc over. The movie pauses while the lens mechanism loops around to the other side. It takes about 10 seconds. I have a really nice Pioneer Elite model with an AC-3 modification. New it was something like $2000. I got it for about $200. Wow, times have changed.


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/19433682
> 
> 
> Here's an interesting little story. I was in HHgreg yesterday. They had one 8350 left, and I managed to get the manager to give it to me for $965. They also accidentally printed in their flyers that the PS3 160gb (normally 299) were selling for 199. Because of Sony price fixing, they couldn't honor that cash price, but instead were giving out $100 gift cards. So I bought two. Pretty nice deal right? Ah, but the story gets better. So, I'm on the way home, not speeding or anything, and I get pulled over for the first time in 6 years. Turns out my tags had expired. As I am out of the country a lot, I tend to forget these domestic issues. So, the cop has me towed ($200+, and hits me for a 150+ ticket). Bam, there goes any savings I had. Karma I guess. Now I have to decide If I want to sell the PJ and the PS3s to try and recoup at all, or if I ought to just keep the PJ and enjoy it and sell the PSs. Oh well.



You need to go on Opra and cry.


----------



## mflanagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19431509
> 
> 
> Framed movie posters in my theater room are going to cause huge reflection issues aren't they?




Take a look in my signature for the link to my HT. I have movie posters with the clear plastic over them. From a seated position they have never been an Issue.


----------



## mflanagan

I just noticed that BestBuy's website now has the Epson 8350. I wonder if there will be any coupons for a percentage off in the coming weeks?


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19433684
> 
> 
> LOL The later ones didn't require you to turn the disc over. The movie pauses while the lens mechanism loops around to the other side. It takes about 10 seconds. I have a really nice Pioneer Elite model with an AC-3 modification. New it was something like $2000. I got it for about $200. Wow, times have changed.



Yep. I have about 600 discs and 2 players. One is a spare, just in case.


Problem is that the technology has come so far that it is painful to watch with the projector. I've always worked under the theory that one generation was not enough to justify updating, so I didn't replace LDs with DVDs. However, I am slowly retiring the laserdiscs as BluRay versions come out now. If it follows vinyl/CD or LD/DVD trends, about 10-15% will never be updated. I suspect the LD player will be hooked up for a long time.


----------



## tsaksa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/19430416
> 
> 
> I'm still using composite for my laser disc player. HDMI for the PS3 and Cable DVR.



Good for you. Glad to see other folks do not immediately trash any slightly obsolete hardware in favor of the latest trends. I am now mostly using HDMI, but my first projector did not have it, and for a long time I did not have a blu ray player, so I used a DVD player with component output, or a PC with VGA output. Before that I used a presentation projector that I had to connect with s-video. And I still use composite to connect an old tube TV to my receiver that I sometimes use to scan what is on without firing up the projector. Not all of my TV's have been upgraded yet, and even composite can give a decent picture at that resolution with some caveats.


It is always best to go with the highest quality and resolution connection you can, so definitely go component over s-video or composite where possible. . But when distance, compatibility, cost, or convenience causes you to make other choices you can still do OK. For analog connections take even more steps to minimize cable length than you might with digital, use quality cables with larger wire sizes, and pay attention to where and how any up-scaling is done so you do not end up processing the signal to death. Any current generation projector deserves a high quality input, so be aware of the limitations, and have a plan to upgrade when you can. But enjoy the laser disk player for as long as possible. You were obviously more of a pioneer in this technology than I was.


----------



## biomed_eng_2000

Find the manager at BestBuy and bargain with him. The floor associates are not on commission but the managers do get rated based on their store sales, so they are motivated to sell.


For all products over $100, I merely ask for a lower price. They have given me a discount more than half the time I ask, if they don't I just buy it online. Bringing in an online quote with shipping and tax included also helps with bargaining. They will do their best to match it.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just noticed that BestBuy's website now has the Epson 8350. I wonder if there will be any coupons for a percentage off in the coming weeks?


----------



## expertmech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19434391
> 
> 
> Yep. I have about 600 discs and 2 players. One is a spare, just in case.
> 
> 
> Problem is that the technology has come so far that it is painful to watch with the projector. I've always worked under the theory that one generation was not enough to justify updating, so I didn't replace LDs with DVDs. However, I am slowly retiring the laserdiscs as BluRay versions come out now. If it follows vinyl/CD or LD/DVD trends, about 10-15% will never be updated. I suspect the LD player will be hooked up for a long time.





My Grandfather (RIP) Spent years collecting the entire Disney Collection of movies for me and his other Grandkids.... IN VHS!!!!!


For his time, he was always on the cusp of technology read Popular Science

and worked for NASA....


How could we not see this coming.


I only own a few movies for my kid...



But, i'm about to hook up this 8350 and step up a bit, so I might want some good stuff on hand for demo purposes at least.


----------



## MississippiMan

Hey Guys.....


It would be well worth your using the Component Connection / HDMI coming out of a Receiver that has Composite/S-VHS to Component / HDMI up-conversion as a feature. In fact, many very inexpensive VHS/DVD Combo Players will do such up-conversion. Then...with the non-HDCP Analog output coming from either device, you can Rip the Videos and re-record them on Dual Layer DVDs and not only condense your Libraries, but manage to improve the quality to a degree commensurate to whatever the original quality will allow. (BTW...good "Ripping" Software can decode HDCP so that's also a consideration. Laser Discs never provided any output that was digital because of such concerns about "copying".)


Best of all....eventually, all you'll need is a DVD player to watch everything.


Looking about, you'll even find VHS/DVD Recorder combos, which would be even more convenient. I recently saw some at Costco...but'cha have to go look fer yerself 'cause posting Brands / Prices from that source is strictly Verbotten on this Forum.


----------



## cksh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/19434366
> 
> 
> I just noticed that BestBuy's website now has the Epson 8350. I wonder if there will be any coupons for a percentage off in the coming weeks?



hmmm, just paid off my BB card too. The wife did say I could use it to buy a tv.







But I am still tempted to drive a few hours and pick one up at HH gregg.


Hopefully the price will come down some for the holidays. Looks like I can get 36 months interest free at BB. If I can get them to price match I might be picking it up sooner than I had planned.


----------



## colt54qg

Hey thanks mississippi man for the response earlier.


I was wondering what cable I should buy. I need at least 12m or 40ft. Do yall have any idea on what I need or should I just go as cheap as possible?


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19431320
> 
> 
> Yes I saw that one on ebay, I may pick that one up, every inch counts!



I just got the mount from Projector-Gear. It looks great - too bad I already modded and installed the one from Monoprice. It is very low profile - 4". I added pictures here to see the mount.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4414116...7625301526364/ 


I am wondering if I should switch... nah I went to all that trouble to mod the monoprice one, I think I'll leave it.


----------



## charpman

Hello everyone,


I have been reading this thread and am pretty excited about getting an 8350. I have a 6 year old Sharp XV-Z12000 it will be replacing. I have two questions:


1.) I have an HHGreg down the street, but they aren't showing anything about any 20% off sale. Anyone know if the sale is for all their stores or only some? It be killer to pick one of these up for sub $1000.


2.) I'd love to actually see the projector running somewhere before buying. Does anyone know a place in the Columbus OH area that has them set up by any chance?


Thanks in advance!


----------



## watchingf1

Would it be better to mount the projector with the 8" extension or without? I'm thinking with so it will be more in direct line with the screen.


Thanks


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would it be better to mount the projector with the 8" extension or without? I'm thinking with so it will be more in direct line with the screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You don't need to unless you have a high cathedral ceiling. The lens shift will pull the picture down a lot.


----------



## lewke

New * Epson 1080p Hi-Def, PowerLite 8350 Multi-Media PROJECTOR * - $650 (hercules, pinole, san pablo, el sob)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Anyone in the Bay Area see this....or try to meet up with this guy...


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *charpman* /forum/post/19435738
> 
> 
> It be killer to pick one of these up for sub $1000.



Its 20% off of MSRP, so unless you want to apply for their credit card (which is HORRIBLE for your credit), you will be just above $1000 ... not under.


----------



## flyingsquirrel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19395186
> 
> 
> Yes....and:
> Sharper Image (vs Panny's SmoothScreen)
> Better Color "out of the Box" and in the brightest Modes.
> More brightness by a leap.
> Longer Focal length
> Longer bulb Life
> It's in Production, and less expensive by almost $900.00 than it's current Panny counterpart.
> 
> 
> Not "Huge" but more than enough to justify choosing it over the newer Panny




I returned the 8350 to HHGregg today (on my 14th and final day for a cash return). I guess I just could not see enough of a difference between the 8350 and the AE2000 (with a lamp that is 2000 hours old) to justify spending the money. I think it says more about the Panasonic (or perhaps my inability to discriminate) than about the Epson, but I was just hoping for a more dramatic improvement. I viewed a lot of HD TV and Blueray movies (from a PS3 at 24p), and some Netflix HD streaming from the PS3. I switched back and forth between the units several times. I think that perhaps I have become accustomed to the look of the Panasonic smooth-screen, and the Epson has a different look, that to my eyes is not necessarily more pleasing. I'm looking forward to trying the next generation of projectors like the Epson 21000 or whenever Panasonic releases its next generation.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lewke* /forum/post/19436502
> 
> 
> New * Epson 1080p Hi-Def, PowerLite 8350 Multi-Media PROJECTOR * - $650 (hercules, pinole, san pablo, el sob)
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone in the Bay Area see this....or try to meet up with this guy...




Hmmmm.. I remember a post about a whole truck load being stolen from projector people.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lewke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New * Epson 1080p Hi-Def, PowerLite 8350 Multi-Media PROJECTOR * - $650 (hercules, pinole, san pablo, el sob)
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyone in the Bay Area see this....or try to meet up with this guy...



New projector half price? Danger Will Robinson.


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm.. I remember a post about a whole truck load being stolen from projector people.



Yeah and wait until you try a warranty claim and realize it's stolen...


----------



## jfried

I ordered the 8350 to replace my old Optima purchased in 2005 or so. The screen is a pulldown Daylite 96" wide, HighPower screen material has a gain of 2.8.


Anyone have any guesses about how this might work with the 8350? Thanks,


John F


----------



## masterren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *charpman* /forum/post/19435738
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> I have been reading this thread and am pretty excited about getting an 8350. I have a 6 year old Sharp XV-Z12000 it will be replacing. I have two questions:
> 
> 
> 1.) I have an HHGreg down the street, but they aren't showing anything about any 20% off sale. Anyone know if the sale is for all their stores or only some? It be killer to pick one of these up for sub $1000.
> 
> 
> 2.) I'd love to actually see the projector running somewhere before buying. Does anyone know a place in the Columbus OH area that has them set up by any chance?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!



If it's just down the street, I'd take a chance anyway. It seems to be pretty easy to get them to take off the 20%. Be sure to bring the $75 off coupon (if it's still on the hhgregg gold site) as well. When I went there, they seemed desperate to sell anything to me. I probably should have asked for even more discount.


----------



## jephdood

This PJ is so much bigger than my old AE900U. Where can I pick up longer brackets like these:











The ones I have now are about 4in. long, and don't come anywhere near reaching the mounting holes on my 8350. I need some that are about 6in.


Please help! I like this mount and want to use it.


Thanks.


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jephdood* /forum/post/19437643
> 
> 
> This PJ is so much bigger than my old AE900U. Where can I pick up longer brackets like these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I have now are about 4in. long, and don't come anywhere near reaching the mounting holes on my 8350. I need some that are about 6in.
> 
> 
> Please help! I like this mount and want to use it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



My monoprice mount was just the right size when I used 3 of the pegs instead of 4. I had to use a single mount for the front, then the back 2 were just right.


----------



## kdog750

Has anyone been running DISH or DIRECT TV through it? I'm currently with a cable company(Suddenlink) to view HD content and wanted to switch to DISH Network. But someone on the LCD thread for the 65" Samsung said the Direct TV content looked almost low def because of the screen size.


Any input is appreciated.


----------



## jephdood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/19438060
> 
> 
> My monoprice mount was just the right size when I used 3 of the pegs instead of 4. I had to use a single mount for the front, then the back 2 were just right.



Even so... mine still don't fit.










Seriously would like to get this thing mounted and going. Any ideas anyone? Please! (and thank you)


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone been running DISH or DIRECT TV through it? I'm currently with a cable company(Suddenlink) to view HD content and wanted to switch to DISH Network. But someone on the LCD thread for the 65" Samsung said the Direct TV content looked almost low def because of the screen size.
> 
> 
> Any input is appreciated.



That is BS - I rundown direct-tv on 3 TVs two are 50-inch, one 42-inch and then in the HT 110 inch. Sure It was better back in the days and OTA can be a tad better but "low def" no way. Maybe the guy needs to press the resolution button on his remote and change the setting from 480p to something higher ,..... We have two locals (abc and NBC) that isn't picked up in HD by direct tv - trust me you can tell.......


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19435333
> 
> 
> Hey thanks mississippi man for the response earlier.
> 
> 
> I was wondering what cable I should buy. I need at least 12m or 40ft. Do yall have any idea on what I need or should I just go as cheap as possible?



Go here:
http://www.compatiblecable.com/info.html 


...leave a msg for "Bill". Tell him Mississippiman sent'cha. Ya won't get any special deal though....simply because they already sell v1.4 HDMI Cable @ $1.00 ft. That's really advantageous when ya gotta get longer lengths, and so cool with shorter ones because they just seem to cost nuthin' !


Here's another neat item they carry. "Flat" v.1.4 HDMI cords. Same price too! I gotta tell ya those are the Bomb when going into a PJ from a Ceiling Mount, as well as conserving space within a Cabinet / Rack.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jephdood* /forum/post/19438606
> 
> 
> Even so... mine still don't fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously would like to get this thing mounted and going. Any ideas anyone? Please! (and thank you)



Well Bub, as inexpensive as that mount is, I'd just order another and compile what you need from both. I don't know of any source where you can acquire just additional Leg assemblies.


Here's a idea though. Cut a Piece of 1/2" Plywood in a "X" pattern ( A square with "V"s cut into it on 4 sides will do nicely) that is large enough to cover all 4 of the 8350's monting holes. Take a large enough sheet of Construction Paper or Thin Cardboard and lay it on top the PJ's Mounting Holes. Poke holes with a Pencil-Pen through the Paper/Cardboard to mark the PJ Mounting Holes.


Lay that template over the "X" assembly and drill out holes that are at least .2 sizes larger than the Screws needed to mount the PJ with.


Paint the "X" a Flat or Semi Gloss Black. Screw the Round Plate to the "X" and there you are.


Or.....Cut yourself a larger diameter Round Plate out of 1/4" Ply and mount the original Plate to it. Then take the Legs and attacj them to the Wooden Plate, using the larger size to bridge the gap.


You could use 3/8" Plexi- Or if your a Glutton for punishment....1/4" Steel. But if that PJ is gonna be mounted high...and your loath to purchase a Mount for the needed parts, that DIY Wooden Wonder will get you up in the air and watchin content in no time.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *watchingf1* /forum/post/19436190
> 
> 
> Would it be better to mount the projector with the 8" extension or without? I'm thinking with so it will be more in direct line with the screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks




As the Spacey One said, ya don't hafta....but it is always best to place the PJ so you don't "have" to use inordinate amounts of Lens Shifting if at all possible.


----------



## jephdood

Yeah, I thought about making my own "plate", but I can't believe there aren't longer bracket 'arms' available anywhere. Thanks for taking the time to toss out that suggestion, MM. I'll probably go that route if that's the only solution for my existing mount.


----------



## R1Jester

If you look back a few pages you'll see how one modified the mount with 2" extensions to catch 4 mounting holes. I plan on drawing up a longer version in CAD and having brackets made up to accommodate the mount. Not sure what cost would be (still cheaper than a new mount), but I could have extras made up if there is an interest.


----------



## garretwp

I went to hhgreggs yesterday and was able to get the projector with the 20% off. They will be running the 20% sale starting Sunday. Only issue for me is they did not have any in stock. They are on order and should be in any day now. I am in no rush as I am in the process of finishing my basement. I am looking forward to the projector andy first real home theatre room!


- Garrett


----------



## joshs232

I just got my Epson 8350, and it has this blue blob on the left edge of the screen. It is about 4" tall and 2" wide. I enhanced brightness a little so it'd be more visible in the picture, but it is very easy to see on any dark scenes. On bright scenes it's hard to see, but still there.


I assume I should call for a warranty replacement?












If anyone's interested in seeing it, I made a ceiling mount for under $10 using plumbing parts, a couple screw connectors, a small piece of angle iron. Not the prettiest, but it does the job.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19439951
> 
> 
> I just got my Epson 8350, and it has this blue blob on the left edge of the screen. It is about 4" tall and 2" wide. I enhanced brightness a little so it'd be more visible in the picture, but it is very easy to see on any dark scenes. On bright scenes it's hard to see, but still there.
> 
> 
> I assume I should call for a warranty replacement?



Just got it? Under 10 hours? You betcha...but the Seller should do it. If over 10 hours....call Epson.



> Quote:
> If anyone's interested in seeing it, I made a ceiling mount for under $10 using plumbing parts, a couple screw connectors, a small piece of angle iron. Not the prettiest, but it does the job.



It's Alive.....*ALIVE !!!*



Muwaahaaahhaaahhhaaaaaaaaa !!!!


----------



## joshs232

Yep, the blue was there right when I turned it on the first time. Didn't even have any cables hooked up to it yet besides the power. It shows up on the test pattern.


I called visualapex and they are going to have there tech call me back to determine if there's something that can be done easily to fix it, or if I need a replacement.


I just don't want to be out a bunch of shipping charges.


As you can tell by my ceiling mount, I'm pretty cheap.


----------



## jephdood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R1Jester* /forum/post/19439359
> 
> 
> If you look back a few pages you'll see how one modified the mount with 2" extensions to catch 4 mounting holes. I plan on drawing up a longer version in CAD and having brackets made up to accommodate the mount. Not sure what cost would be (still cheaper than a new mount), but I could have extras made up if there is an interest.



Depending on the length and if they'd work with mine, I'd be interested. Anybody got a post link to this other solution above? I'm not finding it.


----------



## SkunkWorkz

*Good news! this is a copy and paste and I have called to confirm it.. I can post a direct link to the forum but not sure if thats ok, Good news for AVS!*


" Epson Home Theater Gray Market Facts

Shopping for an Epson HT projector in Canada?


STOP EVERYTHING!


Canadian Epson home theater projector resellers, ie 8350 and 8700UB, will advise you that US imports aren't covered by a Canadian warranty.


I can tell you definitively that this is not the case.


Epson corporate had advised that they will cover gray market imports into Canada.


That means that Epson home theater projectors imported by some re-sellers, are completely, 100% legit, covered and backed by Epson regarding warranties, etc. They're also less expensive.


Here's the email from Epson -


Hi XXXXXXXXXXX,


Thank you for your interest in Epson projectors. Our warranty would cover you if you ordered in the US, however, we have built a dealer channel in Canada to service Canadians and would prefer the business stay in Canada, however, that is your decision to make.


I would ask that you call Brian Evans at WhalePods and see if there is something he can help you with on the pricing side.


He can be reached at 604 925 4666.


Judy Burns

Account Manager, Projection Products

Epson Canada Ltd.

************ (direct)
j*********[email protected] 

Mobile: **********


For the record, WhalePods is a Canadian distributor, not a reseller of Epson projectors, which means that they really shouldn't be selling to the end user. BUT, and this is important -


Because they are a distributor and not a re-seller, they pay less for the projector than your local store or web site does. Which means that they can afford to sell it to the public, us, for less than their regular sales channels. If they pay less, then so should you.


It's interesting that Judy is recommending that you buy from a distributor in Canada, or buy from the US. More or less leaves their Canadian stores completely out of the loop.


So, the lesson here is -


i) buy from the US. You'll save money and have a valid warranty.


ii) if you don't import from the US, buy direct from the Canadian distributor, WhalePods. They can sell the projector cheaper than the stores because they pay less, bottom line.


Hat tip to Epson. They're opening up the Canadian market HUGE with this move.


The question becomes why? Why cut out the mom and pop stores and go direct to the distributors? I know Epson wasn't selling well with the 8100 and 8500UB. It's possible that they felt they weren't getting the support of the HT stores, which is no surprise given the disappointing performance of the older models. It's possible that the newer models are expected to be awful and they're getting aggressive even before they hit the street. If so, do not shoot the messenger!!!


HD_GUY"


----------



## Bacchus

After reading all the reviews and posts on this, I am thinking it is time to buy one!


We moved into our house about 4 months ago. It has a dedicated theater that is 13' X 16'. Not huge, but adequate. We have 2 rows of 3 theater seats in it. It's tight, but again, adequate. It came with an Infocus 4805 and is projecting on a 100" Da-lite motorized pull down screen. The projector has about 2400 hours on it. I took it apart and fixed the dreaded light tunnel issue, but now it is making a huge noise that sounds like teh color wheel is going. I have to dissassemble and see if I did something wrong!


Regardless, it's time to move up. I'm guessing I'll see a huge improvement in the 8350 over the 4805. Agreed?


Also, I am going to change to a fixed screen, probably a Visual Apex house screen. I was thinking of moving up to 106", but I think that might be too big. The front row seating is at about 8' and the second row is at 13'. I plan to move the second row back slightly and put it on a riser. I'm wondering if I would actually be happier even moving down slightly to 96" screen or so. The kids sit in the front row and love the big picture. Any thougts?


Also, how is the noise? Since I have a relatively low drop-ceiling, and the projector will be right over the second row seating which is going to be raised, I'm worried about projector noise. Is a hush box needed?


----------



## buddahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19440130
> 
> 
> Yep, the blue was there right when I turned it on the first time. Didn't even have any cables hooked up to it yet besides the power. It shows up on the test pattern.
> 
> 
> I called visualapex and they are going to have there tech call me back to determine if there's something that can be done easily to fix it, or if I need a replacement.
> 
> 
> I just don't want to be out a bunch of shipping charges.
> 
> 
> As you can tell by my ceiling mount, I'm pretty cheap.



Make sure you turn the water off before turning the epson on


----------



## joshs232

Bacchus - I actually just replaced my 4805, and the 8350 is pretty large improvent as I would guess any 1080p projector would be over a 480p one (other than it seems I got one with a manufacturing defect (see post above)).


Even 480p shows on directtv look better on the 8350 than the 4805.


The biggest thing my wife noticed is how much quieter it is. My project is also mounted right above the chairs in a room similar in size to yours and you can barely hear it with the room totally silent vs the 4805 that you could hear in adjacent rooms.


The pixels are much much smaller, so you could really sit pretty close I'd say. We sit about 11' from the screen at 8' wide (not diagonal).


Be aware that the size is much larger.










Here is mine mounted right above the chairs.


----------



## hddvd_nut

I have 120" screen setup in the basement with basic light controls. The projectors I have had include Sony HW-10, Panasonic AE4000, various lcd's and as of late the Epson 8500UB and Epson 8350. I finished setting up my 8350 about a week ago and to my eyes I'm hard pressed to see a difference in picture quality between the 8500UB and the 8350. I watch mainly Blu-Ray's and HD sports. Same source and material literally look the same to me. Needless to say... I'm selling my 8500UB. I wasn't sure if I would go this route but the PQ honestly looks the same. Maybe it's my eyes but I sure could see a difference between the sony and the epson. Even between the panny and epson.


So to sum it up, for me the 8350 has the same pq as the 8500ub. Never seen the pq of the 8700ub so I can not comment on that.


----------



## shutupandholdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SkunkWorkz* /forum/post/19440723
> 
> *Good news! this is a copy and paste and I have called to confirm it.. I can post a direct link to the forum but not sure if thats ok, Good news for AVS!*
> 
> 
> " Epson Home Theater Gray Market Facts
> 
> Shopping for an Epson HT projector in Canada?
> 
> 
> STOP EVERYTHING!
> 
> 
> Canadian Epson home theater projector resellers, ie 8350 and 8700UB, will advise you that US imports aren't covered by a Canadian warranty.
> 
> 
> I can tell you definitively that this is not the case.
> 
> 
> Epson corporate had advised that they will cover gray market imports into Canada.
> 
> 
> That means that Epson home theater projectors imported by some re-sellers, are completely, 100% legit, covered and backed by Epson regarding warranties, etc. They're also less expensive.
> 
> 
> Here's the email from Epson -
> 
> 
> Hi XXXXXXXXXXX,
> 
> 
> Thank you for your interest in Epson projectors. Our warranty would cover you if you ordered in the US, however, we have built a dealer channel in Canada to service Canadians and would prefer the business stay in Canada, however, that is your decision to make.
> 
> 
> I would ask that you call Brian Evans at WhalePods and see if there is something he can help you with on the pricing side.
> 
> 
> He can be reached at 604 925 4666.
> 
> 
> Judy Burns
> 
> Account Manager, Projection Products
> 
> Epson Canada Ltd.
> 
> 905 209 9126 (direct)
> [email protected]
> 
> Mobile: 416 414 2120
> 
> 
> For the record, WhalePods is a Canadian distributor, not a reseller of Epson projectors, which means that they really shouldn't be selling to the end user. BUT, and this is important -
> 
> 
> Because they are a distributor and not a re-seller, they pay less for the projector than your local store or web site does. Which means that they can afford to sell it to the public, us, for less than their regular sales channels. If they pay less, then so should you.
> 
> 
> It's interesting that Judy is recommending that you buy from a distributor in Canada, or buy from the US. More or less leaves their Canadian stores completely out of the loop.
> 
> 
> So, the lesson here is -
> 
> 
> i) buy from the US. You'll save money and have a valid warranty.
> 
> 
> ii) if you don't import from the US, buy direct from the Canadian distributor, WhalePods. They can sell the projector cheaper than the stores because they pay less, bottom line.
> 
> 
> Hat tip to Epson. They're opening up the Canadian market HUGE with this move.
> 
> 
> The question becomes why? Why cut out the mom and pop stores and go direct to the distributors? I know Epson wasn't selling well with the 8100 and 8500UB. It's possible that they felt they weren't getting the support of the HT stores, which is no surprise given the disappointing performance of the older models. It's possible that the newer models are expected to be awful and they're getting aggressive even before they hit the street. If so, do not shoot the messenger!!!
> 
> 
> HD_GUY"



Well not so fast with your not so fast. I just bought a 8350 from Visions (in Canada) and they matched the US MSRP and gave me amn extra $50 off because of a coupon. It looks like the Buy US advantage is gone.


----------



## mhdiab

There was someone in Canada that got stuck with import fees, taxes etc. There are several posts on thus forum that confirms that a PJ is DIFFERENT from a TV when it comes to tax rules. Still some tax but a lot less than may be requested. I read about it last year so will let you. Guys go and search for it.


Going to see if local BB has the 8350. Buying it for the father-in-law (he pays). Should b a hug upgrade for him as he ha been using s-video to a old 480p projector


----------



## jspursfan

I pulled the trigger on the 8350 last week, as well as the Onkyo 7.1 HTIB that newegg had a great deal on.


Dynamic Mode is awesome. My media/play room has lots of ambient light, but it projects onto my white wall and you can still see it great. Can't wait until I get a screen and some blackout curtains going on!


Got a few questions for MississippiMan and all the other experts here:


(1)

I'm looking at a 120" screen size. With my room size (approx. 14' W x 22'6" L) and the ceiling fan in the middle, I can ceiling mount this puppy pretty much anywhere from 12'6" to 20'6". The ceiling goes up to 10 feet high, so I have plenty of clearance to drop the projector down to miss the ceiling fan. Seating will be in the 10-16 ft range (couch & love seat on either side, 2 media room recliners in the middle under the projector). If I mounted it at 20'6", it would be in an enclave at 8ft high.


Is it pretty much recommended to get it as close to the screen as possible, then zoom the PJ out to 120"? If I'm reading this thread correctly, that would give me the brightest lumens and best image on the screen, since there's less of a throw. Is this correct?


(2)

My last projector was the Mitsubishi HC1500. From about a 16ft throw, I built a 114" DIY screen out of neutral gray WilsonArt counter top laminate; framed it with wood-wrapped velvet and hung it on my wall like a big picture frame. I left my old screen at the old house, so I'm in the market for another screen.


MississippiMan recommended a high-gain neutral gray screen. I liked the countertop laminate because it was easy to clean and you don't worry about kids/pets getting it dirty. But I doubt my DIY countertop had high-gain to it.


Is there a link or suggestions on either DIY fixed-screens that would satisfy a higher-gain? Or, any recommendations on a high-gain, neutral gray screen that won't run me more than a couple-hundred bucks for a 120" screen? I don't mind making another screen, but I've heard there's plenty out there that won't cost much more than going DIY would.



Just trying to take it all in before I pull the trigger. Thanks for all your suggestions and help!


_Edit: I just spent a bit of time reviewing other threads on various painting options for a screen. My wall is typical off-white with standard texture if that helps anyone's advice should you suggest a paint option._


----------



## R1Jester

My weekend just got a whole lot more interesting, many more photos to follow, once its up I'll get the good camera out!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jspursfan* /forum/post/19442341
> 
> 
> I pulled the trigger on the 8350 last week, as well as the Onkyo 7.1 HTIB that newegg had a great deal on.
> 
> 
> Dynamic Mode is awesome. My media/play room has lots of ambient light, but it projects onto my white wall and you can still see it great. Can't wait until I get a screen and some blackout curtains going on!
> 
> 
> Got a few questions for MississippiMan and all the other experts here:
> 
> 
> (1)
> 
> I'm looking at a 120" screen size. With my room size (approx. 14' W x 22'6" L) and the ceiling fan in the middle, I can ceiling mount this puppy pretty much anywhere from 12'6" to 20'6". The ceiling goes up to 10 feet high, so I have plenty of clearance to drop the projector down to miss the ceiling fan. Seating will be in the 10-16 ft range (couch & love seat on either side, 2 media room recliners in the middle under the projector). If I mounted it at 20'6", it would be in an enclave at 8ft high.




Welllll....."this expert sez", don't even consider the 20' Throw option. @ 13' you'll get 23 fls w/ Silver Fire 2.0 (1.2 gain) but only 12 Fls @ 20'


That silly difference makes it almost a crazed thing to even consider choosing the Longer throw over the Shorter one.

....with all due respect, of course.












> Quote:
> Is it pretty much recommended to get it as close to the screen as possible, then zoom the PJ out to 120"? If I'm reading this thread correctly, that would give me the brightest lumens and best image on the screen, since there's less of a throw. Is this correct?



Yeah. I'm glad that's all settled and done with.











> Quote:
> (2)
> 
> My last projector was the Mitsubishi HC1500. From about a 16ft throw, I built a 114" DIY screen out of neutral gray WilsonArt counter top laminate; framed it with wood-wrapped velvet and hung it on my wall like a big picture frame. I left my old screen at the old house, so I'm in the market for another screen.
> 
> 
> MississippiMan recommended a high-gain neutral gray screen. I liked the countertop laminate because it was easy to clean and you don't worry about kids/pets getting it dirty. But I doubt my DIY countertop had high-gain to it.
> 
> 
> Is there a link or suggestions on either DIY fixed-screens that would satisfy a higher-gain? Or, any recommendations on a high-gain, neutral gray screen that won't run me more than a couple-hundred bucks for a 120" screen? I don't mind making another screen, but I've heard there's plenty out there that won't cost much more than going DIY would.




Hmmmmmm, could be a few. But we just have to drag you over to DIY Screens to be able to disclose anything of import in any degree of detail. Suffice it to say....if you wanted a 200" diagonal Screen using the 8350....we could / can / would oblige. For at/under $200.00




> Quote:
> Just trying to take it all in before I pull the trigger. Thanks for all your suggestions and help!
> 
> 
> _Edit: I just spent a bit of time reviewing other threads on various painting options for a screen. My wall is typical off-white with standard texture if that helps anyone's advice should you suggest a paint option._



Walls help make the cost of using advanced Paint solutions a lot more tractable. But the initial finish on the Drywall is often the restrictive aspect for NOOBs and/or those without Dry Wall Finishing skills.


If the Painted Wall's texture is just slightly "tactile" and does not have any gross errors, a light Sanding and 2x Roller Priming (3/8" Nap Rollers) ....followed by amount light sanding wan provide a ultra smooth, almost Glass-like surface that when a Advanced formula is sprayed, represents a "State of the Art" Screen application.


----------



## Bacchus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19441935
> 
> 
> Bacchus - I actually just replaced my 4805, and the 8350 is pretty large improvent as I would guess any 1080p projector would be over a 480p one (other than it seems I got one with a manufacturing defect (see post above)).
> 
> 
> Even 480p shows on directtv look better on the 8350 than the 4805.
> 
> 
> The biggest thing my wife noticed is how much quieter it is. My project is also mounted right above the chairs in a room similar in size to yours and you can barely hear it with the room totally silent vs the 4805 that you could hear in adjacent rooms.
> 
> 
> The pixels are much much smaller, so you could really sit pretty close I'd say. We sit about 11' from the screen at 8' wide (not diagonal).
> 
> 
> Be aware that the size is much larger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is mine mounted right above the chairs.



Wow. It's MUCH larger. I didn't realize how much bigger it is. I need to make sure the ceiling is reinforced.


Does anyone know if the mount in the package deal that Visual Apex offers is sufficient?


----------



## mat82284




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19441935
> 
> 
> Bacchus - I actually just replaced my 4805, and the 8350 is pretty large improvent as I would guess any 1080p projector would be over a 480p one (other than it seems I got one with a manufacturing defect (see post above)).
> 
> 
> Even 480p shows on directtv look better on the 8350 than the 4805.
> 
> 
> The biggest thing my wife noticed is how much quieter it is. My project is also mounted right above the chairs in a room similar in size to yours and you can barely hear it with the room totally silent vs the 4805 that you could hear in adjacent rooms.
> 
> 
> The pixels are much much smaller, so you could really sit pretty close I'd say. We sit about 11' from the screen at 8' wide (not diagonal).
> 
> 
> Be aware that the size is much larger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is mine mounted right above the chairs.



Wow looks good. Since your wall is so close to the projector I would have just used this. This is what I have and Its near the top of the ceiling as well. Works great! Either way it looks good and was cheap. Good work.


If i had a welder like you I would have built one, but without one this works great.
http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...9011397&sr=8-3


----------



## vanz

I think I made a boo boo


Can you guys check this to see if my setup is okay? It's not working out right now.


Here's what I have:


1. Screen: 100" diagonal, 49" H x 87" W.

2. Projector lens is 16' away from screen and 1 foot to the right of the screen, I guess that makes it 55" to the right of center.

3. Center of lens is 9" down from a 9' ceiling

4. Screen is mounted 21" down from top of ceiling


What am I doing wrong? I'm using the pattern mode and lens shift can only get the center of the projection on the right edge...which is only 1 foot left of the lens.


Everything is already mounted


----------



## joshs232

Well, my 8350 is packed back up ready to ship back to visualapex. So far they have been easy to get a hold of and it doesn't seem like exchanging it for a non-defective unit will be a problem (other than no tv for a couple weeks). Here's a better picture of the problem on the one I received. Anyone else have a similar problem? The visualapex tech thinks it is probably dust, but it seems more like a light leak to me since it's easier to see on a dark screen.


----------



## joshs232




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19443744
> 
> 
> I think I made a boo boo
> 
> 
> Can you guys check this to see if my setup is okay? It's not working out right now.
> 
> 
> Here's what I have:
> 
> 
> 1. Screen: 100" diagonal, 49" H x 87" W.
> 
> 2. Projector lens is 16' away from screen and 1 foot to the right of the screen, I guess that makes it 55" to the right of center.
> 
> 3. Center of lens is 9" down from a 9' ceiling
> 
> 4. Screen is mounted 21" down from top of ceiling
> 
> 
> What am I doing wrong? I'm using the pattern mode and lens shift can only get the center of the projection on the right edge...which is only 1 foot left of the lens.
> 
> 
> Everything is already mounted



I think you're trying to shift beyond the capacity. You can't use maximum shift in both directions. If you shift all the way down, there is very little left/right. Since your projector is mounted higher than the screen, it sounds like you're using full down, which will only give a little bit of left/right.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19443769
> 
> 
> I think you're trying to shift beyond the capacity. You can't use maximum shift in both directions. If you shift all the way down, there is very little left/right. Since your projector is mounted higher than the screen, it sounds like you're using full down, which will only give a little bit of left/right.



I adjusted so that image is straight forward with no vertical shift and can only move it another foot. Is that the max I can move it? 2 ft?


----------



## joshs232

If it's centered left to right, you should be able to be able to shift nearly the entire screen height up or down. But at full up or down, you can only go left or right 9% of screen width.


With up and down centered, you should be able to shift 47% of the screen width left and right, or 40 inches or so.


"2. Projector lens is 16' away from screen and 1 foot to the right of the screen, I guess that makes it 55" to the right of center."

The 55 inches off of center you are at is beyond the shift capability.


"3. Center of lens is 9" down from a 9' ceiling

4. Screen is mounted 21" down from top of ceiling"


So, your project is 13" above the top of your screen if I'm reading that correctly, so to get it on the screen, you need nearly 80% of the down shift capability, which leaves almost nothing for left/right. With how much you have to shift down, I think you need the projector mounted nearly centered with your screen.


Are you sure that you have it centered? When it's centered, the lens should be centered with the screen. When you turn the dials, you will hear a click. that means it's near the center.


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19443744
> 
> 
> I think I made a boo boo
> 
> 
> Can you guys check this to see if my setup is okay? It's not working out right now.
> 
> 
> Here's what I have:
> 
> 
> 1. Screen: 100" diagonal, 49" H x 87" W.
> 
> 2. Projector lens is 16' away from screen and 1 foot to the right of the screen, I guess that makes it 55" to the right of center.
> 
> 3. Center of lens is 9" down from a 9' ceiling
> 
> 4. Screen is mounted 21" down from top of ceiling
> 
> 
> What am I doing wrong? I'm using the pattern mode and lens shift can only get the center of the projection on the right edge...which is only 1 foot left of the lens.
> 
> 
> Everything is already mounted



Vanz,


I posted a thread asking some of the same questions and received a reply to some of my questions, but not all of them. I am trying to address some of the same issues you are having, but I have not yet mounted the projector.


From the installation manual for a 100" diagonal screen that is at a throw distance of 9.8 to 20.9 feet it looks like the max horizontal offset is 38.5 inches. Which would not be enough.


When I use the ThrowDistanceCaculator from here http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 

It looks like it should work. Which is the same problem I am trying to figure out.


I'm not an expert, I'm just a noob also trying to figure things out. Off to Lowes for me tomorrow for materials to build my stage.


----------



## jspursfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19443168
> 
> 
> Welllll....."this expert sez", don't even consider the 20' Throw option. @ 13' you'll get 23 fls w/ Silver Fire 2.0 (1.2 gain) but only 12 Fls @ 20'
> 
> 
> That silly difference makes it almost a crazed thing to even consider choosing the Longer throw over the Shorter one.
> 
> ....with all due respect, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. I'm glad that's all settled and done with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmm, could be a few. But we just have to drag you over to DIY Screens to be able to disclose anything of import in any degree of detail. Suffice it to say....if you wanted a 200" diagonal Screen using the 8350....we could / can / would oblige. For at/under $200.00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls help make the cost of using advanced Paint solutions a lot more tractable. But the initial finish on the Drywall is often the restrictive aspect for NOOBs and/or those without Dry Wall Finishing skills.
> 
> 
> If the Painted Wall's texture is just slightly "tactile" and does not have any gross errors, a light Sanding and 2x Roller Priming (3/8" Nap Rollers) ....followed by amount light sanding wan provide a ultra smooth, almost Glass-like surface that when a Advanced formula is sprayed, represents a "State of the Art" Screen application.



You da man, MM. I'll work to get the closer throw and ceiling mount this bad boy, and order longer power and HDMI cables from your boy at Compatible.


For the screen, I'll venture over to the DIY forum for some more in-depth reading. I think I may try the paint route this time around, unless there's a pre-made fixed screen that's better quality and no work on my part.







My walls are just your typical light texture, and one minor tack hole that can be filled in. Shouldn't be a problem at all.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19443839
> 
> 
> If it's centered left to right, you should be able to be able to shift nearly the entire screen height up or down. But at full up or down, you can only go left or right 9% of screen width.
> 
> 
> With up and down centered, you should be able to shift 47% of the screen width left and right, or 40 inches or so.
> 
> 
> "2. Projector lens is 16' away from screen and 1 foot to the right of the screen, I guess that makes it 55" to the right of center."
> 
> The 55 inches off of center you are at is beyond the shift capability.
> 
> 
> "3. Center of lens is 9" down from a 9' ceiling
> 
> 4. Screen is mounted 21" down from top of ceiling"
> 
> 
> So, your project is 13" above the top of your screen if I'm reading that correctly, so to get it on the screen, you need nearly 80% of the down shift capability, which leaves almost nothing for left/right. With how much you have to shift down, I think you need the projector mounted nearly centered with your screen.
> 
> 
> Are you sure that you have it centered? When it's centered, the lens should be centered with the screen. When you turn the dials, you will hear a click. that means it's near the center.



I measured again, it looks like it's 18" from the right of the screen when it clicks. So it's 40" max left just like you stated.


Thanks for your help. I guess I will have to relocate the projector...Lol, this is what happens when you get all excited about a new toy and thought lcd lens shift will let you place it nearly anywhere...I guess anywhere near close proximity to the front of the screen. I really wanted to avoid hanging something in the center of the living room, but I guess I have no choice.


It looked so stealthy where I had it too











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19443842
> 
> 
> Vanz,
> 
> 
> I posted a thread asking some of the same questions and received a reply to some of my questions, but not all of them. I am trying to address some of the same issues you are having, but I have not yet mounted the projector.
> 
> 
> From the installation manual for a 100" diagonal screen that is at a throw distance of 9.8 to 20.9 feet it looks like the max horizontal offset is 38.5 inches. Which would not be enough.
> 
> 
> When I use the ThrowDistanceCaculator from here http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/
> 
> It looks like it should work. Which is the same problem I am trying to figure out.
> 
> 
> I'm not an expert, I'm just a noob also trying to figure things out. Off to Lowes for me tomorrow for materials to build my stage.



Good luck to you







At least you are prepared and did more research than I. I think I figured where I have to mount it....won't be discreet...but it will have to do.


----------



## Zanna

Hi,


Can I please ask a favour to an 8350 owner?


What is the measure from the front feet to the back of the PJ?


The reason I'm asking is that I have a 15" shelve I use to hold my old PJ and I'm not sure if it'll be big enough to hold this puppy. The manual talks about 15.5" deep but what I'm really interested is the dept from the holding feet.


My old projector just went belly up







and I'd love to pick up one of these.


Thanks a lot for the help, very much appreciated.


----------



## vanz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19444192
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Can I please ask a favour to an 8350 owner?
> 
> 
> What is the measure from the front feet to the back of the PJ?
> 
> 
> The reason I'm asking is that I have a 15" shelve I use to hold my old PJ and I'm not sure if it'll be big enough to hold this puppy. The manual talks about 15.5" deep but what I'm really interested is the dept from the holding feet.
> 
> 
> My old projector just went belly up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'd love to pick up one of these.
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for the help, very much appreciated.



I'd say 12 - 12.5". The back curves. Remember to leave room for wires


----------



## WithAlligators

Well, surprise surprise, I decided to open mine up and play with it. This being my first projector, I have mixed feelings. My PS3 is on loan though, so the bst I can do is 480 through a PS2 (looks terrible through composite) and 1600 x 900 through the PC from my laptop (looks pretty good). I am totally inpressed by the colors and black levels, and I imagine I will be more so when I put the PS3 through it with some Blu rays. As far as sharpness, is it common for it to lose a slight amount of focus towards the corners? Mine does, ever so slightly but I've only tested it with the PC, so there might be some weird upscaling going on. Also, convergence, I've got about 1-2 pixels showing green across the top border, and 3-4 down the left border. It's visible on some icons on the far left as well. Is this within normal spec, or an issue? I'll fire it up tomorrow and get pics, if I can get them to turn out. There wouldn't happen to be a service menu adjustment for this would there? It would be easy (well, the left border anyway) on my 34xs955 and 40xbr800 to fix this by adjusting the green gun. But I have heard that convergence can be a problem with the 3 LCD types. Other than that, I'm fairly giddy playing with the machine.

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19439951
> 
> 
> I just got my Epson 8350, and it has this blue blob on the left edge of the screen. It is about 4" tall and 2" wide. I enhanced brightness a little so it'd be more visible in the picture, but it is very easy to see on any dark scenes. On bright scenes it's hard to see, but still there.
> 
> 
> I assume I should call for a warranty replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone's interested in seeing it, I made a ceiling mount for under $10 using plumbing parts, a couple screw connectors, a small piece of angle iron. Not the prettiest, but it does the job.



I got a green one, just replaced my unit.


----------



## caperguy33

Why not just duct tape it to the ceiling? That mount is butt ugly. sorry


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *caperguy33* /forum/post/19444586
> 
> 
> Why not just duct tape it to the ceiling? That mount is butt ugly. sorry



Hey!


That DIY mount is a prime example of DIY'ism. Circa 1800 Transylvania.










Why all you gotta realize is that it embodies so very many aspects of effort and creativity. To wit;
Inspiration (...some type of thinking went into that.....)
Imagination (...I'm not going to even attempt to go there.....)
Perspiration (...it makes me sweat bullets just lookin' at it...)
Desperation (...the OP just had'ta get the durn thing hung somehow....)
Exasperation (....'nuff said there too....)
Recuperation (...take two aspirin and close your eyes....it looks a lot better then....)



josh232,

Just havin' some fun at your expense, but only in good nature.










I will be saving that image for my archives though......


----------



## joshs232




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19444705
> 
> 
> Hey!
> 
> 
> josh232,
> 
> Just havin' some fun at your expense, but only in good nature.



No worries. I certainly expected a lot of heckling with how ugly it turned out. Although nicer looking, I bet most of the


----------



## Browninggold

joshs232

Looks like the left nipple is much shorter than the right....I would fix that right away


----------



## thespacecowboy

That mount is awesome. Does it have a beer line in it? If looks like it could hold some decent beer on tap as well. Bonus.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19444192
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Can I please ask a favour to an 8350 owner?
> 
> 
> What is the measure from the front feet to the back of the PJ?
> 
> 
> The reason I'm asking is that I have a 15" shelve I use to hold my old PJ and I'm not sure if it'll be big enough to hold this puppy. The manual talks about 15.5" deep but what I'm really interested is the dept from the holding feet.
> 
> 
> My old projector just went belly up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'd love to pick up one of these.
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for the help, very much appreciated.



Check out page 17.

It should provide enough info to give you a good approximation of the distance/dimensions.

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf 


.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *caperguy33* /forum/post/19444586
> 
> 
> Why not just duct tape it to the ceiling? That mount is butt ugly. sorry



If he painted it black, I bet people would of thought it was a store bought Avant-garde mount and asked where he got it.

I think it's creative and personalized and probably makes a good conversation piece when people notice it.


----------



## theworm

Has anyone tried a mount from this guy on Ebay?

http://myworld.ebay.com/kramerica_incorporated/


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> I'd say 12 - 12.5". The back curves. Remember to leave room for wires



Thanks this is much better then I thought actually. it should leave 2"+ at the back for cables.



> Quote:
> Check out page 17.
> 
> It should provide enough info to give you a good approximation of the distance/dimensions.
> 
> http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf



This is interesting and gives a general idea but I cannot extract with precision the info I need. Distance between front feet and back of the PJ.


Well at this point I'm thinking to order it. I have a back up plan. If it's too big I can buy one Ceiling mount and instead of using it for the ceiling I would install the PJ head down underneath the shelve. Since the shelve is 8' high there is still some room from people's head sitting on the sofa below it.

Something like this should allow me to gain an extra few inches.
http://the-hometheater.co.cc/?p=697


----------



## scottpe

Just got my 8350 yesterday from Visual Apex. Everything arrived in perfect condition. Nice smooth transaction.


My previous projector is a Sony HS-20, which I've owned since 2003. All I can say, in short, is WOW! I am extremely pleased with the improvement with the 8350. The difference in brightness is startling, especially in "dynamic" mode. Granted my HS-20 probably could have used a new bulb, but still, this thing is impressively bright, even in the lower settings. I have an East/West exposure in my house, and my HS20 would get pretty washed out in the late afternoon (with curtains closed). That will not be an issue with the 8350 -- I won't have any problem watching sporting events during the day with this baby, in my partially light controlled room.


Let's see...brighter, better contrast, deeper blacks, higher resolution/detail, lens shift, longer lamp life, and LESS THAN HALF of what I paid for my HS20 when it first came out? All I can say is SCORE!! Money well spent...


The only thing I will add is that you CANNOT effectively judge this projector unless you can feed it a 1080P digital signal!! People that are feeding this with a low res signal, over a low quality connection (some over composite even...seriously??), and getting let down by the image quality, definitely need to give it a more thorough tryout.


Btw, I'm projecting onto a 120" (diagonal) light gray, home built screen from about 17 feet away. Feeding it with a PS3 (DVI), XBOX 360 (component), and an LG OTA HDTV receiver (DVI/HDMI). Not surprisingly, Blu-Ray discs really looked great on it. What pleased me even more was that even DVDs looked better than ever, which I'm sure is attributed to the improved blacks and contrast.


Anyway, all I can say is this projector is a terrific value. I don't think you can fully appreciate how much so unless you've owned projectors in the past. Sure, there are models that give you slightly better blacks and contrast than this one, and if another $1K is not a big deal to you, then by all means get one of those. But if you want a terrific bang for your buck, and an extra grand to spend on other aspects of your home theater, then the 8350 is very hard to beat!


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *caperguy33* /forum/post/19444586
> 
> 
> Why not just duct tape it to the ceiling? That mount is butt ugly. sorry



Yeah, because we all look at the f***ing ceiling while we're watching our movies on the big screen.


----------



## scottpe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19446315
> 
> 
> Yeah, because we all look at the f***ing ceiling while we're watching our movies on the big screen.



Wow, funny. That's like saying "who cares if your Corvette is missing its fenders, has a coat hanger for an antenna, has duct tape holding the side mirrors on, and is bashed in on the side...you can't see it while you're driving it after all..."


Using that logic, why even bother building a home theater? Just paint a white wall in your unfinished basement, throw down a rug, and enjoy the show!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottpe* /forum/post/19446403
> 
> 
> Wow, funny. That's like saying "who cares if your Corvette is missing its fenders, has a coat hanger for an antenna, has duct tape holding the side mirrors on, and is bashed in on the side...you can't see it while you're driving it after all..."
> 
> 
> Using that logic, why even bother building a home theater? Just paint a white wall in your unfinished basement, throw down a rug, and enjoy the show!



I think a more adeqaute analogy would be if he used plumbing for motor mounts than ones made for holding the engine.

The mount is to hold the projector securely and does not effect any performance aspects of the projection.


And your 2nd paragraph... many here do exactly that. Something wrong with having a budget HT?


----------



## WithAlligators

Hey,

Any thoughts on convergence? Top row of pixels is green, far left 3-4 pixels is green.

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## vanz

Anyone know if the heat output is greater than 125 degrees? Reason I ask is because my projector will be mounted 20" directly behind it. The heat from the projector shoots towards the lens side correct?


Is it safe to do this?


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *vanz* 
Anyone know if the heat output is greater than 125 degrees? Reason I ask is because my projector will be mounted 20" directly behind it. The heat from the projector shoots towards the lens side correct?


Is it safe to do this?
The front vents point toward the left(when looking at the projector right side up with lens on right). So away from the lens.

Not sure how much heat it puts out.


*If you look at page7 of the manual I posted a few posts back, you can see the vent fins are directing the heat away from the lens.


----------



## vanz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
The front vents point toward the left(when looking at the projector right side up with lens on right). So away from the lens.

Not sure how much heat it puts out.


*If you look at page7 of the manual I posted a few posts back, you can see the vent fins are directing the heat away from the lens.
I forgot to add that it's 20" behind a water sprinkler. I think i'll start a new topic on this since this will probably be buried soon and it pertains more of a safety issue regarding any projector behind a water sprinkler.


----------



## pauleyc

So I've only got to watch a couple of movies with my 8350, however I just noticed my lamp hours in the menu is 0 H. Anyone else "stuck in time"?


----------



## WithAlligators

The projector will say 0H for a few hours, some say 4, but maybe more. Cheers,

Alex


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vanz* /forum/post/19446775
> 
> 
> I forgot to add that it's 20" behind a water sprinkler. I think i'll start a new topic on this since this will probably be buried soon and it pertains more of a safety issue regarding any projector behind a water sprinkler.



6-8" from the front of the projector, the air does even feel warm to me. I wouldn't think it would be an issue. If the sprinkler goes off then that would be bad for the projector, but since the sprinkler when off .. you probably have bigger issues. Since it has lens shift .. why not just move it a foot or two?


----------



## R1Jester

A few shots from tonight, not sure I am setting the camera right, but I didn't want to play around with pictures all night! Straight out of the box setup on flat white wall. Roughly 104" from about 11' Probably a little too high on the zoom, and will scale back just a little....possibly.....


HDTV and PS3 game, no Blu-ray viewings yet. Plan to put it through the paces during football tomorrow, possible tweak the settings per Art's recommendations.


----------



## rraulston

Greetings........first post.......I have been wanting a projector for a long time and finnally took the plunge. Got the 8350. I got mine at Best Buy. They said they had just gotten it in. I also bought a ceiling mounted 92" screen. I about fainted when they said a 16' HDMI cable was $169. Picked up my first Blu Ray player too. Now...I have had a Toshiba rear projection for about 12 years. Great tv, WAY pre HD. I bought toy story 3 (bluray) hooked it up out of the box and just about wet myself.....I have never seen anything as crystal clear and bright and simply FLAWLESS....I know, an experienced TV buff might be thinking these are o.k. or whatever, but me comming from the NON-HD world, I am literaly stunned......unbelievable.......now I need to learn how to set it up right......see ya!!


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/19447899
> 
> 
> Greetings........first post.......I have been wanting a projector for a long time and finnally took the plunge. Got the 8350. I got mine at Best Buy. They said they had just gotten it in. I also bought a ceiling mounted 92" screen. I about fainted when they said a 16' HDMI cable was $169. Picked up my first Blu Ray player too. Now...I have had a Toshiba rear projection for about 12 years. Great tv, WAY pre HD. I bought toy story 3 (bluray) hooked it up out of the box and just about wet myself.....I have never seen anything as crystal clear and bright and simply FLAWLESS....I know, an experienced TV buff might be thinking these are o.k. or whatever, but me comming from the NON-HD world, I am literaly stunned......unbelievable.......now I need to learn how to set it up right......see ya!!



Its ok to cry if you want to. Let it all out. Its going to ok ... but expensive! Welcome!


Now first things first .. take that cable back and log onto monoprice and get you a premium 20ft cable for $15. Yes, that right .. $15. And it will probably be nicer than the one you got. Remember, this isn't analog .. 1's and 0's and most any HDMI will do. Secondly, make them match the HHGregg 20% off deal so you get some money back on the deal.


Again - welcome and good luck...


----------



## leov36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottpe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, funny. That's like saying "who cares if your Corvette is missing its fenders, has a coat hanger for an antenna, has duct tape holding the side mirrors on, and is bashed in on the side...you can't see it while you're driving it after all..."
> 
> show!



Wow! I've read some ******, far fetched analogies on this forum, but his one takes the cake.....


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jspursfan* /forum/post/19443941
> 
> 
> You da man, MM. I'll work to get the closer throw and ceiling mount this bad boy, and order longer power and HDMI cables from your boy at Compatible.
> 
> 
> For the screen, I'll venture over to the DIY forum for some more in-depth reading. I think I may try the paint route this time around, unless there's a pre-made fixed screen that's better quality and no work on my part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walls are just your typical light texture, and one minor tack hole that can be filled in. Shouldn't be a problem at all.



HI! Glad you made the trek!


We got what ya need here! No need to purchase a Pre-made Mfg Screen.

Depending on the size you desire and your location, there might be material available you can shoot directly onto...and/or paint later. For advanced results and to offset adverse room conditions, painting is always needed.


PAINTING a wall is always cool...and it's like this: If you try that first, and the Wall is not cooperative, one can always get a same sized Sheet of material, paint that...and hang it directly over the ill-served initial attempt.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leov36* /forum/post/19448068
> 
> 
> Wow! I've read some ******, far fetched analogies on this forum, but his one takes the cake.....



Hey! As long as you can smoke your competitor and take his Title....eventually you get enough scared up to make the needed repairs. It's the







you'll get while waiting for that point that might be hard to bear up under. Well that...and your not getting "lucky" nearly as easy.



ZZZzzzzzzooooooommmmmmm!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc* /forum/post/19447827
> 
> 
> If the sprinkler goes off then that would be bad for the projector, but since/if the sprinkler went off .. you probably have bigger issues.



I'd tend to agree with that statement.


----------



## Joco1114

Finally I am the owner of a new Epson 8350! (In here it called EH-TW3600.)

I made some photos and upload onto my website. If you want to see them, here is the URL. I made a comparison to my old 720p projector also.


Sorry, the language is Hungarian, but the pictures are international!









http://info.bitwizard.hu


----------



## scottpe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leov36* /forum/post/19448068
> 
> 
> Wow! I've read some ******, far fetched analogies on this forum, but his one takes the cake.....



LOL, yes it was a slightly exaggerated analogy. My point was, to justify an aesthetically a** ugly element in a theater room, simply because you can't see it "while you're watching a movie," is a bit dumb. You can't see 80% of what's in a home theater room while you're watching a movie, so why do any of us bother to make them look nice?? By that logic, I guess we all might as well just finish out the front stage and forget the rest...










Anyway, I don't want to derail this thread any further, so I digress...


----------



## Bill Marsh

Thanks for the screenshot comparison Joco-----I can see the better resolution and better blacks-----please tell me what movie the first few pictures are from---is it Final Fantasy or something similar?


I'm waiting delivery of my Epson 8350 at the moment ----my Marantz vp4001 DLP lamp died so I decided it was time to upgrade---the Marantz was a very nice projector and gave about 2000 hrs of enjoyment.


I'll be shootiing from 14 feet onto a Wilsonart laminate with 1.25 gain at 110 inches.


Not really a new member---I used to post alot in the Marantz thread--I guess i re-registered for this IP address


----------



## AVS66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/19447899
> 
> 
> Greetings........first post.......I have been wanting a projector for a long time and finnally took the plunge. Got the 8350. I got mine at Best Buy. They said they had just gotten it in. I also bought a ceiling mounted 92" screen. I about fainted when they said a 16' HDMI cable was $169. Picked up my first Blu Ray player too. Now...I have had a Toshiba rear projection for about 12 years. Great tv, WAY pre HD. I bought toy story 3 (bluray) hooked it up out of the box and just about wet myself.....I have never seen anything as crystal clear and bright and simply FLAWLESS....I know, an experienced TV buff might be thinking these are o.k. or whatever, but me comming from the NON-HD world, I am literaly stunned......unbelievable.......now I need to learn how to set it up right......see ya!!



Monoprice is only place to buy cables. I have been shopping all my cables from them. Last week, just got a 30ft 22AWG hdmi for $27. For 20ft, it's about $15.


----------



## orange.

Just got our 8350 from Projector People. It's an upgrade from a 4 year old InFocus X1. The input is 1080p from an LG BD 570 via HDMI. Hope I got all the lingo right.










Anyway, the before and after difference is stunning!


Here's my question: after powering down the projector, I don't hear the cooling fan running. Our old InFocus ran its fan for 30 secs or a minute or so--doesn't the 8350 need to do that too?


Thanks in advance for any information.


Updated: After listening closely, I think it does run for about maybe 10 - 15 secs and it's so quiet I almost can't hear it. Does that seem correct?


----------



## Joco1114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Marsh* /forum/post/19449749
> 
> 
> Thanks for the screenshot comparison Joco-----I can see the better resolution and better blacks-----please tell me what movie the first few pictures are from---is it Final Fantasy or something similar?



Thanks and sorry about the picture quality, I have a low end photomachine.










First pictures are wallpapers only. Sources: Word of Warcraft and Benita Winckler.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *orange.* /forum/post/19449767
> 
> 
> Just got our 8350 from Projector People. It's an upgrade from a 4 year old InFocus X1. The input is 1080p from an LG BD 570 via HDMI. Hope I got all the lingo right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, the before and after difference is stunning!
> 
> 
> Here's my question: after powering down the projector, I don't hear the cooling fan running. Our old InFocus ran its fan for 30 secs or a minute or so--doesn't the 8350 need to do that too?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any information.
> 
> 
> Updated: After listening closely, I think it does run for about maybe 10 - 15 secs and it's so quiet I almost can't hear it. Does that seem correct?



Yes.


LCD projectors tend to be quieter than DLP pjs like your X1. This Epson model in Eco mode is one of the quietest! It also has an improved ventilation system which allows to cool the lamp better/faster.


Enjoy!


----------



## colt54qg

Ok I am looking for a 110 high contrast grey fixed frame screen and I cant find them for sale anywhere. Has anybody gotten one for their projector? If so where did you buy it from?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19450272
> 
> 
> Ok I am looking for a 110 high contrast grey fixed frame screen and I cant find them for sale anywhere. Has anybody gotten one for their projector? If so where did you buy it from?




There is easy and extremely inexpensive access to exactly what you want....with exceptional performance to boot....but the Keys to the Door lie via a PM sent to me if you want to consider DIY. Or a visit to The DIY Screen Forum.


----------



## wlecount

I was wondering if you guys thought a Da lite, 110" CINEMA CONTOUR CV HC W/PRO TRIM screen would be acceptable for this projector in a completely light controlled basement with no windows. (I don't have screen or projector yet, but both are in the near future) It's a used item for sale on Craigslist and I can get it for $500 so I don't want to screw it up and end up with something that wont work. I'm looking to check it out tomorrow and just want a quick ok as its not some huge mistake.The room is 12x21 and I'll get everything else sorted out after I get the screen and projector chosen.


Thanks


----------



## ericpizzapie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19450272
> 
> 
> Ok I am looking for a 110 high contrast grey fixed frame screen and I cant find them for sale anywhere. Has anybody gotten one for their projector? If so where did you buy it from?



I have an Epson 8100 and use the Focupix HC Grey and it has served me well. Good bang for the buck. Check this site out

http://www.htdepot.com/


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wlecount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering if you guys thought a Da lite, 110" CINEMA CONTOUR CV HC W/PRO TRIM screen would be acceptable for this projector in a completely light controlled basement with no windows. (I don't have screen or projector yet, but both are in the near future) It's a used item for sale on Craigslist and I can get it for $500 so I don't want to screw it up and end up with something that wont work. I'm looking to check it out tomorrow and just want a quick ok as its not some huge mistake.The room is 12x21 and I'll get everything else sorted out after I get the screen and projector chosen.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Is a 110 inch exactly what you want? Don't compromise size just because you found it locally. I am very happy with my dalite contour 1.3 gain but question is what size can you fit? 21ft is a long room


----------



## wlecount




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhdiab* /forum/post/19451713
> 
> 
> Is a 110 inch exactly what you want? Don't compromise size just because you found it locally. I am very happy with my dalite contour 1.3 gain but question is what size can you fit? 21ft is a long room



I'll be sitting around the 12-14' mark for know with just 1 row so in all reality you could look at it like its just a 15' room right now. It's not really the side of the room I want to use, but it will be the easiest for now. I taped a rough 120" screen on the wall and it just seem like to much and it put my floor speakers right against the outside walls. My problem is I only can spend about $500 on the screen which is what I offered the guy. I was thinking of going all the way down to a 106", but 110" was my original number and if the screen is as good as it may be I will go with it. I'll admit I've always read about projectors and searched around here, but a screen was always an after thought.


----------



## rraulston

I was wondering if you guys thought it would be o.k. to leave my projector mounted out on my enclosed porch. The manual says you can store it at 14-140degrees. In the winter it gets down to about 35/40 and 100/110 (arizona) in the summer. I just worry about condinsation ect. I would make a cover for it to keep off dust. My porch just isnt climate controlled, but fully enclosed. If not, I have to bring it in the house every day, and into my second day of ownership, ime tired of doing that allready....Thoughts?? By the way just watched the new Star Trek on Bluray and WOW!......Just amazing!!


----------



## Buddd99

I am putting the 8350 in a room that is 12.5feet by20 feet I'm going with a 100 or 106" screen where do I position it on the wall???


----------



## ajb5865

Question for others that have had their 8350 for awhile--> Have you noticed a lot of fan noise (whine) when in normal lamp mode? I have about 30 hrs on mine and have noticed a good deal of fan noise when in normal (high) lamp mode. It is very quiet for the first fifteen minutes the projector is on, but then gets annoyingly loud after that. Sounds like a mini fridge compressor, or like a laptop computer fan that is going bad.Switching back to eco cuts the noise down to a whisper. Time for me to call for a replacement??


----------



## WithAlligators

Wow, finally put the PS3 to this thing and some BRs and running in its native resolution, it's just fantastic. Still seem to have some slight convergence issues and now theres a slight red blob in the bottom right that shows up in blacks. I'm going to call ol' Epson this week about it. Other than that, why would someone spend 3k plus on a 60 inch flat panel? This is bonkers. And I'm just projecting onto a spare unfinished piece of sheetrock. I'm thinking of building a (150"+) silverfire screen for my father to convince him to buy a PJ as well and to have something to project onto when I go to his house. As I'll only be around for a year in this apt, this unfinished sheetrock is great. And free.

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## DieBrotmafia

Does anyone have the 8350 and had a 1080p decent dlp projector? I'm asking cuz i'm wondering wheter in this case with the 8350 the sharpness and black levels are as good as with a dlp in the same price range. Can't find anything about this in the reviews, just that the picture quality is good (compared to other lcd's?)...


I try to decide between the w1000+ thats pretty affordable in my country while with the 8350 I would need to import it which is ~ 100$ just for shipping and if somethings broken i got a problem... So I'm interested in wheter the 8350 is better.


----------



## rajveen

did any of you install the projector in the basement below a usable floor? how do you avoid the vibration issue when you have people walking directly above the projector?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/19452521
> 
> 
> Wow, finally put the PS3 to this thing and some BRs and running in its native resolution, it's just fantastic. Still seem to have some slight convergence issues and now theres a slight red blob in the bottom right that shows up in blacks. I'm going to call ol' Epson this week about it. Other than that, why would someone spend 3k plus on a 60 inch flat panel? This is bonkers. And I'm just projecting onto a spare unfinished piece of sheetrock. I'm thinking of building a (150"+) silverfire screen for my father to convince him to buy a PJ as well and to have something to project onto when I go to his house. As I'll only be around for a year in this apt, this unfinished sheetrock is great. And free.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alex



Wow, talk about timing of an issue.


I noticed the red blob or very faint red haze when the right lower corner is totally black lastnight. I can sort of also see in the upper left corner when it's totally black.


I then decide to look closer at the screen and when I have the Pattern screen up, which is blue, the left side edge has a green horizontal strip about 1/8 of an inch at the very edge and the right side has a dark blue/purplish strip.

If you have your screen over scanned on to the velvet(off screen) you may not see this.


*I also noticed this on my Panasonic blu-ray player start up screen, which is also blue.


I'm taking mine back for an exchange and hope that this is not a common issue that requires Epson to investigate.


----------



## bhurlbert

If anyone's interested in seeing it, I made a ceiling mount for under $10 using plumbing parts, a couple screw connectors, a small piece of angle iron. Not the prettiest, but it does the job.








[/quote]

*You Know You're a ******* If ...*

... you have a $1,300 projector hooked into a $5,000-$10,000 home theater (probably, just guessing on price) and you use some left over parts from your brother-in-law, the plumber, to build a $10 homemade mounting bracket. The bracket really looks like the debris from when your neighbor's still blew up and the shrapnel fell into your yard.


Not too bad for a *******, though.


----------



## mflanagan

Looks like I'll be selling my Panasonic AX100U in favor of this bad boy!


----------



## Fishtank

Well I set it all up and got about 20 hrs on the projector this weekend. I figured I would write up a quick comparison as they help me when I come across them and have had similar projectors.


My new Epson seems to be in great shape. Bought from Visual Apex, shipped across the country and arrived fine. There is one very small dust blob that gives off a very mild 6" green ghost blob which is invisible unless I happen to catch it in the "no source" black screen. Non-issue for me.


I'm going from an Optoma HD65 -> Viewsonic Pro8100 -> Epson 8350. Viewsonic was better than the HD65 in every way so I will only compare the 2 1080P LCD projectors. Basically in the end I'm splitting hairs...their picture quality is very similar. I was quite happy with the Viewsonic other than the Horizontal Banding defect.


-120" Matte white 1.0 screen

-Completely light controlled room

- ~15' throw

-Shelf mounted fairly high so I'm currently using quite a bit of verticle lens shift and no horizontal shift.

-PS3/360/HTPC 1080P sources

-Neither were calibrated with a meter, just a plain old Spears and Munsil disk. I've considered a meter however I'm always able to find settings I enjoy without one.


-Picture quality out of the box is far better on the Epson, however once calibrated I find the picture quality quite similar. The viewsonic seems to give you far more control in the settings your able to adjust. The Epson seems to limit the range in which contrast/brightness/saturation etc is actually configurable, which isn't a bad thing for most people...kinda keeps you on rails to get a decent picture. I would have to say the epson looks better across different source's as well. I found I constantly was adjusting settings as I went from movies to games on the Viewsonic. Epson seems quite happy to show everything well with very little "fuss". Ultimately myself and a friend agreed that the image was slightly superior on the Epson. It's hard to put into words, but it was possibly more "uniform"... it handled every scene very well. Again it's hard to dial the viewsonic in... it was possibly my configurations.


-It can be really hard to objectively remember things like "better blacks" however I believe the Viewsonic wins in this department. I would have to give shadow detail to the Epson however. They are VERY close in both area's.


-Brightness is tough because both have more than enough for my light controlled room. I would say if needed the Epson will push out a bit more light, however I run both on ECO and fairly neutral settings and both were bright enough I never felt I needed more power. Honestly going from Eco to Normal on the Epson doesn't give as dramatic an increase in brightness as I expected. While the uncalibrated "dynamic" mode seems very bright, it's obliterating any detail in whites, and I just don't notice it being much brighter once contrast and brightness are dialed in.


-Sharpness is going to have to go to the Viewsonic. While the Epson is 100% acceptable, text and webpages etc. from my HTPC were noticeably cleaner on the Viewsonic. This could very well be caused by the fact that I had my Viewsonic ceiling mounted with no real vertical lens shift and my Epson has significant lens shift. I'm not sure from first hand experience but I've heard a lot of lens shift can add "chromatic aberration" which you would expect might make the image softer, or at least give it small "halo's". I'll probably buy another ceiling mount soon.


-Feature-wise I do miss the power lens shift/zoom/focus of the Viewsonic...however the 8350 gives me 10 picture presets to save compared to Viewsonic's 2. Also the 8350 tends to drop the image about 1" over night. Last night I set it 1" above the screen, so I'm thinking it will settle in properly. The dials to adjust the lens shift seem to click and "lock" but in steps. However it makes me appreciate the power features of the Viewsonic a bit more. Otherwise I can't think of too many other difference's off the top of my head.


-Fan noise, both are VERY quiet on eco. Viewsonic being slightly quieter. On normal bulb settings or High altitude they start to creep up into "DLP" noise range but are still quiet enough to not be too distracting.


-Epson starts up and shuts down much quicker. It also reach's full output much quicker on startup.


-Size... They are both large projectors however the viewsonic is still a fair amount bigger. I believe it would be about 1 1/2" higher and probably 1 1/2" deeper. Not an issue for me, they could be twice the size and I wouldn't really care. I'm sure you can look up actual dimensions if your worried.


It's an odd comparison now that I've written it out. Viewsonic seems to have some points over the Epson, however ultimately I prefer the Epson. Again the difference's listed are surprisingly small...they both perform very well and IMO very similar especially for the average guy just looking for a good projector.


I'm VERY happy with the price/performance of both these machines. I'm also happy I went through the effort to switch over to the Epson. I guess I appreciate the performance and the warranty, and given how problematic the HB is on the viewsonic, and how little viewsonic seems to care... getting the Epson makes more sense. However I would not suggest it as a reasonable upgrade at all if you did not have any defects with your Viewsonic Pro8100. They are ultimately just too similar.


Sorry it's so long, I type fast and it just kinda poured out.


----------



## joshs232




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19453365
> 
> 
> ... you have a $1,300 projector hooked into a $5,000-$10,000 home theater (probably, just guessing on price) and you use some left over parts from your brother-in-law, the plumber, to build a $10 homemade mounting bracket. The bracket really looks like the debris from when your neighbor's still blew up and the shrapnel fell into your yard.
> 
> 
> Not too bad for a *******, though.



My home theater is pretty limited. The projector is by far the most expensive piece. I think my receiver (sony) and speakers (JBL) were about $1200 about 10 years ago when I bought them. I only replace something when it fails. I was happy with my Infocus 4805 and would have just got a new bulb for it if it didn't also have the light tunnel issue common with them. Mostly we only use it to watch directv after the kids go to bed (so very low volume) anyway.


It may not look the best, but it'll hold 200+ pounds to the ceiling, and has adjustable pan/tilt/swivel without tools. I could spend another dollar on something to cover it and make it look nice, but I'll be happier with the dollar. I'm not even going to bother painting it since it doesn't matter to me.


Visual apex is sending me a replacement 8350 today. I had to front the money for them to ship it before they get the first one back though.


----------



## krshlstn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajveen* /forum/post/19453062
> 
> 
> did any of you install the projector in the basement below a usable floor? how do you avoid the vibration issue when you have people walking directly above the projector?



I am really surprised more people haven't talked about this. Maybe because I live in the midwest and not everyone has basements. But I have a VERY Solid Ceiling mount and the kitchen is above my theater room. If I would do this all over, I would go with a wall mount if possible. My wall is only 2' back from my projector now, but I don't know if I want to give up the lumens I lose for going back 2 more feet. Anyway, 99% of the time it is totally fine, especially since I usually watch it after the kids go to bed. But yesterday I had people over to watch the Vikings game (which was ugly but an awesome game) and my kids were running around up stairs and my projector was shaking pretty decent, or I should say the ceiling was shaking. I don't think my dad even noticed but it bugged the CRAP out of me. I have a brand new house and didn't think much about it before. But if you have some heavy trafic above the theater room, I would at least concider doing something other than a ceiling mount.


----------



## thespacecowboy

As a true testament to this great projector


My wife said last night "it's just like watching a big tv. And I can happily have the room light on and still watch it, which is good"


This is coming from my wife who disapproves about pretty much every gadget I own


----------



## rajveen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19453813
> 
> 
> I am really surprised more people haven't talked about this. Maybe because I live in the midwest and not everyone has basements. But I have a VERY Solid Ceiling mount and the kitchen is above my theater room. If I would do this all over, I would go with a wall mount if possible. My wall is only 2' back from my projector now, but I don't know if I want to give up the lumens I lose for going back 2 more feet. Anyway, 99% of the time it is totally fine, especially since I usually watch it after the kids go to bed. But yesterday I had people over to watch the Vikings game (which was ugly but an awesome game) and my kids were running around up stairs and my projector was shaking pretty decent, or I should say the ceiling was shaking. I don't think my dad even noticed but it bugged the CRAP out of me. I have a brand new house and didn't think much about it before. But if you have some heavy trafic above the theater room, I would at least concider doing something other than a ceiling mount.




I was prepared for this as i braced the joists around the projector to prevent flexing and its helped but i may have to add some rubber washers to provide a little more dampening affect.


----------



## Robbo1

Quote:

Originally Posted by *shutupandholdon* 
Well not so fast with your not so fast. I just bought a 8350 from Visions (in Canada) and they matched the US MSRP and gave me amn extra $50 off because of a coupon. It looks like the Buy US advantage is gone.
How did you get Visions to price match a US store? The Visions site says they will only price match authorized Canadian dealers with full Canadian manufacturer's warranty. What did you end up paying?


----------



## ekscden

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVS66* 
Monoprice is only place to buy cables. I have been shopping all my cables from them. Last week, just got a 30ft 22AWG hdmi for $27. For 20ft, it's about $15.
I used to think that, but Amazon has much better deals. I got TWO 35' cables for that price with no tax and free shipping and they work flawlessly. Amazon all the way for me!


----------



## ekscden

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVS66* 
Monoprice is only place to buy cables. I have been shopping all my cables from them. Last week, just got a 30ft 22AWG hdmi for $27. For 20ft, it's about $15.
Use that cable until you get one from Amazon, then bring that sucker back!!!!!


----------



## dysfunction26

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ekscden* 
I used to think that, but Amazon has much better deals. I got TWO 35' cables for that price with no tax and free shipping and they work flawlessly. Amazon all the way for me!
What gauge cable? Also, how is the return policy? Monoprice takes things back for a full refund, no matter why you are returning.


----------



## j-bo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Zanna* 
Thanks this is much better then I thought actually. it should leave 2"+ at the back for cables.




This is interesting and gives a general idea but I cannot extract with precision the info I need. Distance between front feet and back of the PJ.


Well at this point I'm thinking to order it. I have a back up plan. If it's too big I can buy one Ceiling mount and instead of using it for the ceiling I would install the PJ head down underneath the shelve. Since the shelve is 8' high there is still some room from people's head sitting on the sofa below it.

Something like this should allow me to gain an extra few inches.
http://the-hometheater.co.cc/?p=697
Click on "search this thread" as it's been asked/answer prior.


But.. you have room as I had the same question and saw the answer already posted.


----------



## vitod

I currently have a Panny AE900. Nice pic and all. Is the 8350 worth the switch?


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Marsh* /forum/post/19449749
> 
> 
> Thanks for the screenshot comparison Joco-----I can see the better resolution and better blacks-----please tell me what movie the first few pictures are from---is it Final Fantasy or something similar?
> 
> 
> I'm waiting delivery of my Epson 8350 at the moment ----my Marantz vp4001 DLP lamp died so I decided it was time to upgrade---the Marantz was a very nice projector and gave about 2000 hrs of enjoyment.
> 
> 
> I'll be shootiing from 14 feet onto a Wilsonart laminate with 1.25 gain at 110 inches.
> 
> 
> Not really a new member---I used to post alot in the Marantz thread--I guess i re-registered for this IP address



Hi , boy just beat me to the punch was wondering if the 8350 is better than my marantz

4001 . Let me know via a pm or Im sure others might like the comparison too ! .

Not sure whether Im going to change since the Marantz only has 483 hrs on it but that 1080p thing keeps tempting me ( :


----------



## beyondabraxas

Hey Guys, first post here (of hopefully many).


Initially, my budget for a projector was ideally much lower than $1299, but long story short, I've realized this is the bad boy to get.


Had a couple questions though,


Now being that Black Friday is a couple weeks away, do you folks think this

projector will be marked down at all? Should I wait? or give in? (I'll have a 2 week break from work before Thanksgiving, so I'm debating if its worth waiting for a price break, or taking the time to enjoy this beast)



Also, I'm getting the projector not only as a film enthusiast, but as motion graphics artist hoping to flex his VJ muscles using Modul8 a couple nights a month. I'm thinking this is a great projector for the latter, since its a decent amount of Lumens for a dim night venue, and the full HD resolution won't compromise the content I create.

Any thoughts or experiences?



Thanks a ton!


----------



## bhurlbert

I received my projector last week. When I initially fired it up, it was projecting a very dim bluish, pinkish, purplish blob. I called Epson Tech Support and they walked me though several troubleshooting tips and eventually re-booting the projector cleared things up.


We watched a few TV shows and the kids played a few games, but Sunday night, the same issue cropped up again. I turned the projector off and on again with the remote and still the same blob. I turned it off at the main switch overnight and turned it on again today and the same problem.


So, I called Epson Tech Support again and they agreed to replace it. However, after keeping me on hold for over 30 minutes, they came back saying that they did not have any 8350s in stock and suggested that I contact Projector People, where I bought it. By the time I called them and got though to Customer Service, the warehouse had closed. So, as it stands, Projector People is supposed to email a UPS return label and when they see it in transit, they will release another projector back to me.


Kinda frustrating start to Epson ownership and I hope it gets better.


I'm not sure if it is related, but when delivered by the 'oops'/UPS driver, there was a puncture in the cardboard box, but not the inner packing material. Can rough handling cause this type of failure?


Hoping to get things installed by the end of the week. Waiting on a Monoprice order for cables and now another projector.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19454314
> 
> 
> As a true testament to this great projector
> 
> 
> My wife said last night "it's just like watching a big tv. And I can happily have the room light on and still watch it, which is good"
> 
> 
> This is coming from my wife who disapproves about pretty much every gadget I own




And how can this Be....? How'd that happen? Did you get a visit from the Quizzit Haddarach?

Enjoy the Rocky Mountain High of having WAF.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beyondabraxas* /forum/post/19456333
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, first post here (of hopefully many).
> 
> 
> Initially, my budget for a projector was ideally much lower than $1299, but long story short, I've realized this is the bad boy to get.
> 
> 
> Had a couple questions though,
> 
> 
> Now being that Black Friday is a couple weeks away, do you folks think this
> 
> projector will be marked down at all? Should I wait? or give in? (I'll have a 2 week break from work before Thanksgiving, so I'm debating if its worth waiting for a price break, or taking the time to enjoy this beast)



It's a Gamble. Deny yourself instant Bliss for the hope...maybe vain....that you'll save a few dollars, or Tax. Or Buy now and reap the price difference in shear, unadulterated Joy.


Seems a No Brainer to me....being the devout No Brainer I is.
































Well, if you wait, and it doesn't happen, no need to worry about they'er running out. There are scads of 'em in the Consumer Pipeline, and in truth....that just MIGHT make the dufference. You could be wise beyond your years to wait.


Think about this. All the Foolish, self gratifying Projector Heads rush to buy now...you wait, and save $300.00 !!!!!


Now where did I put that Brain......?




> Quote:
> Also, I'm getting the projector not only as a film enthusiast, but as motion graphics artist hoping to flex his VJ muscles using Modul8 a couple nights a month. I'm thinking this is a great projector for the latter, since its a decent amount of Lumens for a dim night venue, and the full HD resolution won't compromise the content I create.
> 
> Any thoughts or experiences?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a ton!



You'll be happy you got it when you get it and actually start to use it for what you'd like to use it for, so get it and get'ter dun.


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by shutupandholdon
> 
> Well not so fast with your not so fast. I just bought a 8350 from Visions (in Canada) and they matched the US MSRP and gave me amn extra $50 off because of a coupon. It looks like the Buy US advantage is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get Visions to price match a US store? The Visions site says they will only price match authorized Canadian dealers with full Canadian manufacturer's warranty. What did you end up paying?
Click to expand...


Same problem here, today I called Visions and they said that they will not match the US price.










Also majority of US dealers including projectorpeople and projectorpoint said that now Epson is forbidding them to ship to Canada. The sale guy said that they used to ship to Canada and that got them into trouble with Epson so they don't do it anymore.


----------



## wlecount

Just purchased my 8350 tonight from Bestbuy for 20%. I didn't have coupon or anything, but I told him I had been to hhgregg and they had offered it at $969 (might have been a bit of fib). He looked at the system and said he couldn't do that, but said he would knock it down to $1039! Deal! I also picked up, well on order, a pioneer vsx-1120 for $499 and a PS3 320 GB for $399. I pretty much consider the first two a steal at those prices. I also was able to use a coupon they sent in the mail that resulted in a $130 gift card for spending over a grand. Simply an amazing night. With the discounts and gift card I decided to go with the 4 year warranty on the projector. They replace one bulb during that period if it dies and at $239 that easily pays for the bulb and I still got it for cheaper than the normal price. Finally he told me I couldn't do the 36 months no interest and would only give me 18 months. I already had a quote in hand and I knew he was leaving in an hour so i left. I came back when he was gone and I got the quote prices and the 36 months no interest. He probably would not have let me do the gift card thing either.


Ok enough of that paragraph. I intend to order a 5'X10' piece of Wilsonart DW and make the screen myself. I had wanted to get the 110" dalite screen locally but I think I'm going to go as big as possible with the sheet. BTW the picture is amazing, I just don't have any sound so I could only watch so long.


And FYI always try to work the price down at bestbuy on things like TV's, Audio Equipment, and Appliances because those are the big money makers and they have a good margin and will typically work with you. I saved almost 30% on my appliances last year and I'm not the type of person who will incessantly haggle with them. Talk nice to them about what you need or come in with an idea of what you need and can spend and they will try to meet your needs. That's why I love me some BestBuy action.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vitod* /forum/post/19455527
> 
> 
> I currently have a Panny AE900. Nice pic and all. Is the 8350 worth the switch?



As a Panny 900u owner myself I wanted to know the same thing. If you search through this thread you fill find many 900u owners who made the switch and used words like "blown away" and "wow wow wow wow"....so yeah...I have yet to see one person who regretted the upgrade. The one question I ask though....is how much of that wow factor was due to just having a new lamp? Going from a projector lamp with 2500+ hours on it to a new lamp would make a significant difference in of itself. You will get a huge wow by spending $300 on a new lamp, but I'm sure the new D7 panels, 1080P, and higher lumen output would make a significant difference. Also....I'm looking forward to getting rid of the Panny SmoothScreen technology. While it did a great job getting rid of the SDE that plagued many 720P projectors, I found myself messing with the focus a little more than I would like trying to get it a bit sharper. I am planning on making the upgrade.....but probably not until bonus time or my lamp finally dies.....whichever comes first.


----------



## colt54qg

Here's what my living room looks like so far. I'm waiting for my hdmi cable to come in so I just have a component cable running across the floor now. But I made that mount just out of some spare walnut and redwood lumber I had in the garage. I'm also going to build my own screen over the next few days. This projector is working out great even in medium ambient lighting settings. Lots of thanks to MM for all the advice so far.


----------



## Dallas_Jose

quick update


I returned my projector.


I finally put some hours on the unit and got to seeing what I could adjust and noticed a small area of blurriness at the lower right corner in the focus pattern. It was not a major problem and just noticeable so I asked the spouse to see if she noticed it also. She did not notice it untill I pointed it out to her, then she agreed. I know you can't really get perfect focus across the whole screen but something seemed off in the lower corner. I also noticed the red was not lining up in the cross hatch patten, it was off just enough to be noticeable, just a hair. I had a panasonic 900 so I knew this was expected but decided 12xx was too much not to return it and see what another projector could do.


I did a return and the new one not only had great focus across the whole screen but the colors were alinged across the screen too on the pattern. It also seemed to exhibit better "punchier" colors, or maybe it was just me but the new one seemed much better.


Just my experience if something doesnt look right before you give up on the brand/projector return it and see if another displays the same issues. They may have had a bad batch or something. JMHO


----------



## ZX3Junglist

Been lurking here for some time, and I'm excited to say that I've pulled the trigger on an 8350 thanks to all the input I've been seeing here. I was about to grab a 65" plasma at BB, but I wanted BIGGER baby!


Can't wait. I'm sure I'll be back to get ideas for mounts, screens etc. Thanks everyone for indirectly helping my decision.


----------



## shutupandholdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robbo1* /forum/post/19455020
> 
> 
> How did you get Visions to price match a US store? The Visions site says they will only price match authorized Canadian dealers with full Canadian manufacturer's warranty. What did you end up paying?



I got it for $1249 with the coupon for $50 off. I just told him what I was going to pay and they said okay.


----------



## jklas65

I could use some input from everyone. Yesterday I was able to purchase an 8100 open box item from BB for $900. Now I am almost thinking I should have plunked down the extra $400 and got the 8350. Please give me some feed back if this is worth the extra money or if I should stick with my original deal. The 8100 had 130 hours on the bulb. I am using the projector for watching nfl, bluerays and PS3 games. Thanks so much everyone.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jklas65* /forum/post/19458112
> 
> 
> I could use some input from everyone. Yesterday I was able to purchase an 8100 open box item from BB for $900. Now I am almost thinking I should have plunked down the extra $400 and got the 8350. Please give me some feed back if this is worth the extra money or if I should stick with my original deal. The 8100 had 130 hours on the bulb. I am using the projector for watching nfl, bluerays and PS3 games. Thanks so much everyone.



For starters, 8350 has an inorganic LCD panel, which will last longer and not degrade in PQ like the organic LCD panel in the 8100.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1287588


----------



## thespacecowboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jklas65* /forum/post/19458112
> 
> 
> I could use some input from everyone. Yesterday I was able to purchase an 8100 open box item from BB for $900. Now I am almost thinking I should have plunked down the extra $400 and got the 8350. Please give me some feed back if this is worth the extra money or if I should stick with my original deal. The 8100 had 130 hours on the bulb. I am using the projector for watching nfl, bluerays and PS3 games. Thanks so much everyone.



130 hours sounds like second hand rather than open box! Open box to me is consumer took it home, opened it all up and didn't want it. This sounds like someone had it installed, ran it for a few weeks, and then decided against it.


I assume it still comes with a full warranty right (the 8100)?


I can't compare as I've not seen the 8100, although I was considering it before the 8350 came out.


----------



## wlecount




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jklas65* /forum/post/19458112
> 
> 
> I could use some input from everyone. Yesterday I was able to purchase an 8100 open box item from BB for $900. Now I am almost thinking I should have plunked down the extra $400 and got the 8350. Please give me some feed back if this is worth the extra money or if I should stick with my original deal. The 8100 had 130 hours on the bulb. I am using the projector for watching nfl, bluerays and PS3 games. Thanks so much everyone.



It just doesent seem like a good enough deal to me. I paid $1039 for an 8350 from BB last night. Like my post from up above, go in and tell them what you would like to pay or ask what they could do for you. No commission and to most of them a sale is a sale.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thespacecowboy* /forum/post/19459305
> 
> 
> 130 hours sounds like second hand rather than open box! Open box to me is consumer took it home, opened it all up and didn't want it. This sounds like someone had it installed, ran it for a few weeks, and then decided against it.
> 
> 
> I assume it still comes with a full warranty right (the 8100)?
> 
> 
> I can't compare as I've not seen the 8100, although I was considering it before the 8350 came out.



Open box is a gamble especially if there is no disclosure why it's open box.

I took back my 8350 because of the red haze in the lower right hand corner in dark scenes and green strip on the left edge.

Most people won't notice these issues unless they start wondering their eyes off the screen and notice the issues by examing the picture/screen closely.

Best Buy took my return and placed an Open box sticker on it with reduced price with out even checking the unit. It's only got about 25 hours on the bulb but someone will get an open box unit with the issues I found.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wlecount* /forum/post/19459367
> 
> 
> It just doesent seem like a good enough deal to me. I paid $1039 for an 8350 from BB last night. Like my post from up above, go in and tell them what you would like to pay or ask what they could do for you. No commission and to most of them a sale is a sale.



You were fortunate that your BB took your "word" for a sale price and gave you a discount.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wlecount* /forum/post/19457416
> 
> 
> Just purchased my 8350 tonight from Bestbuy for 20%. I didn't have coupon or anything, but I told him I had been to hhgregg and they had offered it at $969 (might have been a bit of fib). He looked at the system and said he couldn't do that, but said he would knock it down to $1039! Deal!



It never hurts to ask but my local BB's will call the store if I give them a verbal or provide a cellphone picture of an unadvertised sale price. Then the item must be in stock for them to PM.


At the 4 BB's near me, they will not reduce the price or price match without an ad or proof of a local price. Believe me, I persue price match all the time to the point that my wife no longer goes to the CS counter at BB with me because she thinks I'm cheap.


----------



## frankd

Did you give them a reason when you asked to exchange it? (just curious)


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankd* /forum/post/19460112
> 
> 
> Did you give them a reason when you asked to exchange it? (just curious)



Yes. I told them the exact issues I had with the unit. They didn't enter them in the computer or write anything down. I was actually surprise they didn't even open the box to check if a projector was in there and not a box of rocks.

I got an exchange. I did not do a return. So they asked why I wanted an exchange and I told them about the issues.


*I'm a BB Silver Premiere member so I get 45 days to return or exchange any item with no restocking fee so there's no need for me to tell any lies.


----------



## vitod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19457447
> 
> 
> As a Panny 900u owner myself I wanted to know the same thing. If you search through this thread you fill find many 900u owners who made the switch and used words like "blown away" and "wow wow wow wow"....so yeah...I have yet to see one person who regretted the upgrade. The one question I ask though....is how much of that wow factor was due to just having a new lamp? Going from a projector lamp with 2500+ hours on it to a new lamp would make a significant difference in of itself. You will get a huge wow by spending $300 on a new lamp, but I'm sure the new D7 panels, 1080P, and higher lumen output would make a significant difference. Also....I'm looking forward to getting rid of the Panny SmoothScreen technology. While it did a great job getting rid of the SDE that plagued many 720P projectors, I found myself messing with the focus a little more than I would like trying to get it a bit sharper. I am planning on making the upgrade.....but probably not until bonus time or my lamp finally dies.....whichever comes first.



LOL! Way too many pages so to 'search'....











And you're right about the Smoothscreen. It's annoying at times. I may take the plunge.


----------



## vitod

Another question before I take the plunge.


The AE900 is 25' away from the screen on a rear shelf. The screen is 2:35:1, 112" Carada. Does the 8350 have a long throw lens and project CLEARLY, 25' away?


This can be the deal breaker.


----------



## jklas65

Thanks everyone for the input. I am going to go back to BB today and exchange the 8100 for the 8350. I am not very confident about getting it for a discount.


I was concerned about the bulb issue I read about. I just wanted to make sure it was worth the extra $400 but it sounds like it is with everything I have read.


I am excited to try it out. I will let everyone know what I find. Last night I view Cars and Planet Earth bluerays on the 8100 and it looked good. So i can't wait to see what the 8350 will look like.


Thanks again everyone


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vitod* /forum/post/19460251
> 
> 
> Another question before I take the plunge.
> 
> 
> The AE900 is 25' away from the screen on a rear shelf. The screen is 2:35:1, 112" Carada. Does the 8350 have a long throw lens and project CLEARLY, 25' away?
> 
> 
> This can be the deal breaker.



See for yourself. It doesn't appear to be unless your screen is high gain.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


.


----------



## Bacchus

Will my PQ suck if I shelf-mount on a wall at 16.5' feet throwing a 100" diag picture?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bacchus* /forum/post/19461502
> 
> 
> Will my PQ suck if I shelf-mount on a wall at 16.5' feet throwing a 100" diag picture?



No.


----------



## bhurlbert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19456355
> 
> I received my projector last week. When I initially fired it up, it was projecting a very dim bluish, pinkish, purplish blob. I called Epson Tech Support and they walked me though several troubleshooting tips and eventually re-booting the projector cleared things up.
> 
> 
> We watched a few TV shows and the kids played a few games, but Sunday night, the same issue cropped up again. I turned the projector off and on again with the remote and still the same blob. I turned it off at the main switch overnight and turned it on again today and the same problem.
> 
> 
> So, I called Epson Tech Support again and they agreed to replace it. However, after keeping me on hold for over 30 minutes, they came back saying that they did not have any 8350s in stock and suggested that I contact Projector People, where I bought it. By the time I called them and got though to Customer Service, the warehouse had closed. So, as it stands, Projector People is supposed to email a UPS return label and when they see it in transit, they will release another projector back to me.
> 
> 
> Kinda frustrating start to Epson ownership and I hope it gets better.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it is related, but when delivered by the 'oops'/UPS driver, there was a puncture in the cardboard box, but not the inner packing material. Can rough handling cause this type of failure?
> 
> 
> Hoping to get things installed by the end of the week. Waiting on a Monoprice order for cables and now another projector.



I heard a rumor on this forum that Epson had good customer service and promptly took care of their problems. However, I have not experienced that with they yet. It has not been a pleasant experience so far (see above).


I received a return label from Projector People and followed a link to a UPS Store and dropped the projector off there before 8:30 am this morning. Now I find out that UPS will not acknowledge it in-transit until a truck picks it up at 8:00 pm this evening and Projector People will not release my replacement projector until they see my projector in transit. So, that will be some time tomorrow. Feel like I'm getting a run around from everyone. Any other suggestions on similar projectors or other companies to buy it from?


Sorry for the rant, but was hoping to have things set up for a gathering Saturday evening.


Thanks,

Bill


----------



## joshs232




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19462038
> 
> 
> I heard a rumor on this forum that Epson had good customer service and promptly took care of their problems. However, I have not experienced that with they yet. It has not been a pleasant experience so far (see above).
> 
> 
> I received a return label from Projector People and followed a link to a UPS Store and dropped the projector off there before 8:30 am this morning. Now I find out that UPS will not acknowledge it in-transit until a truck picks it up at 8:00 pm this evening and Projector People will not release my replacement projector until they see my projector in transit. So, that will be some time tomorrow. Feel like I'm getting a run around from everyone. Any other suggestions on similar projectors or other companies to buy it from?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but was hoping to have things set up for a gathering Saturday evening.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill



Most places would make you pay to ship the new projector before they get the old one back and confirm a problem.

That's what I had to do with visualapex. So I have 2400 on my card for both projectors now, and they say they'll fully refund the 2nd 1200 when they confirm the returned one has a problem. I tried to drop off mine at a fedex staffed drop point yesterday but they wouldn't give me a receipt showing I dropped it off, so I didn't leave it there and will just hand it to fedex when they deliver the new one.


----------



## lin000

Many stores don't even accept a return of more than 100 hrs on it. I agree that 130 hrs should be 2nd hand instead of open box. I believe that you have 30 days to return it. Do it. Don't hesitate. To be honest, i got it as an open box at 930 even before 8350 was out. Right now you can probably get 8350 at around 1100 easily, so why bother.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jklas65* /forum/post/19458112
> 
> 
> I could use some input from everyone. Yesterday I was able to purchase an 8100 open box item from BB for $900. Now I am almost thinking I should have plunked down the extra $400 and got the 8350. Please give me some feed back if this is worth the extra money or if I should stick with my original deal. The 8100 had 130 hours on the bulb. I am using the projector for watching nfl, bluerays and PS3 games. Thanks so much everyone.


----------



## inkhead

Can someone please take a picture of the projector on during the daylight, even against a wall would be fine. I know to capture a decent image of what you are seeing in person, you'll probably need to put your DSLR in manual mode, flash off, and have the shutter speed extremely fast (faster than the camera would default to for a daylight room) for us to see what it looks like.


I won't always be sitting in the dark and I would like to see what it looks like to see how much of an improvement it is over a 1280x720 viewsonic I've had for 5+ years


----------



## bomrat

hay guys, just picked up the 8350, i built a 103" 16:9 smx screen for it.

any tips for getting the best color vs blacks?

thanks

arlan


----------



## rfplanner

I Just bought one of these, it was delivered today, the focus wheel just will not move, is it fixed somewhere? Is there a screw to remove?

Has anyone had the same problem?

BR

Phil


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bomrat* /forum/post/19463317
> 
> 
> hay guys, just picked up the 8350, i built a 103" 16:9 smx screen for it.
> 
> any tips for getting the best color vs blacks?
> 
> thanks
> 
> arlan




Keep it on either "Natural" or Living Room" mode and on High Lamp.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inkhead* /forum/post/19462673
> 
> 
> Can someone please take a picture of the projector on during the daylight, even against a wall would be fine. I know to capture a decent image of what you are seeing in person, you'll probably need to put your DSLR in manual mode, flash off, and have the shutter speed extremely fast (faster than the camera would default to for a daylight room) for us to see what it looks like.
> 
> 
> I won't always be sitting in the dark and I would like to see what it looks like to see how much of an improvement it is over a 1280x720 viewsonic I've had for 5+ years…



To give you anything reasonable to compare, the environment would almost have to be exactly the same, and the Screen's identical.

Do you have a Gray screen? matte White?


I've got scads of such Pictures, being a "Ambient Light Performance" enthusiast, but seldom is anything like "Sunlight" interjected. Muted daylight, reduced by a degree of curtain treatment, and/or by being decidedly indirect, got some of those. Plenty with little/lots of lights on, but just the same, very few with Incandescent/Florescent lights "directed" toward the Screen. Virtually all are on Gray Screens w/metallic assistance.


The 8350 will do a great job under pretty stiff ambient light (artificial) and pretty much the same thing under suppressed ambient Sunlight.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfplanner* /forum/post/19463328
> 
> 
> I Just bought one of these, it was delivered today, the focus wheel just will not move, is it fixed somewhere? Is there a screw to remove?
> 
> Has anyone had the same problem?
> 
> BR
> 
> Phil



Did you remove the yellow "packing" spacer?


----------



## MississippiMan

Here are some Low ambient light shots of the 8350 shooting onto a 110" diagonal "White light Fusion". This Theater is circa 2006. Had a Z4. Now upgraded.

*Left of Screen Lighting*









*Screen Centered*









*Right of Screen Lighting*











Did you catch the "Stars" on the ceiling?



























*The 8350 on a Shelf Mount*












All images except the last "Flash" shot were taken at 800 ISO (...thus the "noisey images) to duplicate the exact appearance of the room lighting and actual appearance of the projected image. What you see is what was there.


----------



## tigerfan33

Great shots Mississippi!!!


What are the dimensions of your theater??


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joshs232* /forum/post/19462164
> 
> 
> Most places would make you pay to ship the new projector before they get the old one back and confirm a problem.
> 
> That's what I had to do with visualapex. So I have 2400 on my card for both projectors now, and they say they'll fully refund the 2nd 1200 when they confirm the returned one has a problem. I tried to drop off mine at a fedex staffed drop point yesterday but they wouldn't give me a receipt showing I dropped it off, so I didn't leave it there and will just hand it to fedex when they deliver the new one.



Even Epson made me put an additional projector on my card while shipping the replacement. They also cleared the charge as soon as they received tracking info. Seems that projectorpeople are being fairly nice in that they aren't requiring the deposit.


Problem is people are no damned good, and if they didn't do this, some people would just keep the old one and the new one.


----------



## vitod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19460815
> 
> 
> See for yourself. It doesn't appear to be unless your screen is high gain.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm
> 
> 
> .



I guess I have to stick with the Panny for now.


----------



## inkhead

Thanks for the photos, that's about the lighting I keep my normal working environment in, so this projector will work perfect for status and monitoring of our network environment!


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19462038
> 
> 
> I heard a rumor on this forum that Epson had good customer service and promptly took care of their problems. However, I have not experienced that with they yet. It has not been a pleasant experience so far (see above).
> 
> 
> I received a return label from Projector People and followed a link to a UPS Store and dropped the projector off there before 8:30 am this morning. Now I find out that UPS will not acknowledge it in-transit until a truck picks it up at 8:00 pm this evening and Projector People will not release my replacement projector until they see my projector in transit. So, that will be some time tomorrow. Feel like I'm getting a run around from everyone. Any other suggestions on similar projectors or other companies to buy it from?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but was hoping to have things set up for a gathering Saturday evening.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill



What did you expect Epson to do when they said, we ain't got any to send you?


You're mad at Epson/PP because of a UPS policy?


Get PP to ship it overnight with Saturday delivery option to meet your party deadline. It only takes a short while to set it up.


----------



## TooLowTooGo

Hello everyone, this is my first projector and figured I would share some pictures. As you'll see below the media room I am working with is still a work in progress, but I think I am off to a great start!

I have a 8350 throwing from 11feet(ceiling mounted) onto a 100" gray painted screen. DVD is up-converting to 1080p using a Samsung 6500 Blu-Ray player hooked up HDMI.


The pictures below are in order, lights on, lights dimmed 50% and lights off


----------



## crc8381

Very interested in this projector and was just wondering how video games look??? Particularly with C.O.D


----------



## krshlstn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crc8381* /forum/post/19466617
> 
> 
> Very interested in this projector and was just wondering how video games look??? Particularly with C.O.D



I just played COD Last night for about 8 hours on my 8350 and have to say I was a little worried about the lag in video games before I bought this also. But let me tell you first hand that there is no need to worry about lag. I usually can easily tell if there is lag like in older TV's and stuff, but there is nothing I notice for lag on this. I am very pleased with that. I made a mode that shuts off all the extra processing stuff like no iris, no super whites, etc. Pretty much so the least amount of processing power goes on for gaming. But once in a while I forget to go to that mode and I play it in my movie watching mode, I haven't ever noticed any lag that way either. So I wouldn't worry about lag on this projector.


----------



## crc8381




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19467119
> 
> 
> I just played COD Last night for about 8 hours on my 8350 and have to say I was a little worried about the lag in video games before I bought this also. But let me tell you first hand that there is no need to worry about lag. I usually can easily tell if there is lag like in older TV's and stuff, but there is nothing I notice for lag on this. I am very pleased with that. I made a mode that shuts off all the extra processing stuff like no iris, no super whites, etc. Pretty much so the least amount of processing power goes on for gaming. But once in a while I forget to go to that mode and I play it in my movie watching mode, I haven't ever noticed any lag that way either. So I wouldn't worry about lag on this projector.




Thanks krshlstn that is exactly what I wanted to hear.


----------



## bhurlbert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/19466463
> 
> 
> What did you expect Epson to do when they said, we ain't got any to send you?
> 
> 
> You're mad at Epson/PP because of a UPS policy?
> 
> 
> Get PP to ship it overnight with Saturday delivery option to meet your party deadline. It only takes a short while to set it up.



** No, I'm not mad at PP for a UPS policy, I just wish the UPS website was more clear on the limitations on a UPS store and that it is basically just a drop box. The reason that I was wanting faster UPS confirmation was that PP would not release my replacement projector until they saw the the defective unit was 'In Transit' and I was hoping to not have to wait another day for that release. **


OK, I'll quit complaining and wait for another new projector to get here. Hopefully, this one will work better.


----------



## BlueRibbon

Hi there, a newbie here. I plan to get the 8350 soon and will DIY a screen by painting directly on the wall. It will be in my basement with controlled lights. Other walls and ceiling are in light color so a light grey is probably the best bet. I have been studying the DIY guide but am still a little confused. So, are these the right and current materials I get from HomeDepot?


Quart Custom Tint (I assume I just give these #'s to the guy at HomeDepot and they know what to do, right?)

Behr UPW 1850

031 Lamp Black

007 Brown Oxide

003 Yellow Oxide


add 25% MinWax Polycrylic Satin Clear (water based), and these from Michael's:


2 - 8 oz. bottles gleams ceramcoat pearl

1 - 8 oz. bottle gleams ceramcoat silver


I'm thinking about a 100-120 inch screen, with the projector mounted on the wall (on a shelf) 18' away. Will this work? Thanks in advance!


----------



## colt54qg

Here's a screenshot of my epson 8350 going midday with the lights and windows behind the projector wide open. The projector is in it's dynamic mode and the screen a cheapie till I get the paint in to make a good one. I was really surprised how well this thing handles ambient light.


----------



## expertmech

Quote:

Originally Posted by *colt54qg* 
Here's a screenshot of my epson 8350 going midday with the lights and windows behind the projector wide open. The projector is in it's dynamic mode and the screen a cheapie till I get the paint in to make a good one. I was really surprised how well this thing handles ambient light.




: DROOL:



And that looks like my J E T S...


Man I can't wait.... Sheet rock and insulation coming tomorrow.


----------



## fraisa




MississippiMan said:


> Here are some Low ambient light shots of the 8350 shooting onto a 110" diagonal "White light Fusion". This Theater is circa 2006. Had a Z4. Now upgraded.
> 
> 
> 
> Miss Man....
> 
> Awesome Room..
> 
> Great Job.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fraisa


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19467448
> 
> 
> ** No, I'm not mad at PP for a UPS policy, I just wish the UPS website was more clear on the limitations on a UPS store and that it is basically just a drop box.



Even if you drop it off at a UPS distribution hub, the policy is the same. It doesn't get into the tracking system until the package is scanned for departure, which around here is usually around 7-8pm.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

Sometimes, it will move and never get scanned in. Last year we had a super sale on a Panasonic Blu Ray player, we sold 300 in one weekend, 25% where like this. First update on tracking, besides billing info received was, "Delivered"







I was getting phone calls out the ying yang and all units where shipped, all units made it, but "0" tracking updates.


We finally got some more 8350 in


----------



## MississippiMan

Bluntly put, if one uses a independently owned "UPS Store" or must depend upon the Driver to Scan you take a chance of it not even happening. Only Retailers / Wholesalers with a actual "Shipping Dept." and who have the ability to process Shipping tickets, and who then "WATCH" the Driver scan each package as accepted can ever really be sure. When that happens, the Shipper receives a Receipt w/Tracking info "on the spot". But even then, with UPS, to receive any notification of a Tracking number the Shipper must send the info. UPS does not.


Even then....crap happens. I made arrangements on a Friday for a UPS Overnight "Saturday" delivery and at considerable expense to accommodate a critical installation. I asked for an emailed Tracking number. I was told I would receive one. The following Monday.







Why? The UPS Driver comes so late to the Shipping Dept.on Fridays the "Sales Office" is closed.

UPS does not send out Email notifications like FedEx will if a Email address is provided.


I avoid UPS unless there is no alternative. FedEx is very dependable. I always look for a FedEx / Kinkos location in an area I'm in/coming to for work that can receive Packages for hold, and have things shipped there in my name. (Express only "NO" Ground.) Cool thing is, if you do that, the packages are always available after 9 am

(No "1st Overnight" required...or even Priority Overnight)


I know people who don't do this sort of thing regularly are not aware of such "slings and arrows". Nor the "Shields" available to prevent one from being whopped or skewered.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19469280
> 
> 
> Here's a screenshot of my epson 8350 going midday with the lights and windows behind the projector wide open. The projector is in it's dynamic mode and the screen a cheapie till I get the paint in to make a good one. I was really surprised how well this thing handles ambient light.



What size screen is that?


----------



## Mikey_Dawg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krshlstn* /forum/post/19467119
> 
> 
> I just played COD Last night for about 8 hours on my 8350 and have to say I was a little worried about the lag in video games before I bought this also. But let me tell you first hand that there is no need to worry about lag. I usually can easily tell if there is lag like in older TV's and stuff, but there is nothing I notice for lag on this. I am very pleased with that. I made a mode that shuts off all the extra processing stuff like no iris, no super whites, etc. Pretty much so the least amount of processing power goes on for gaming. But once in a while I forget to go to that mode and I play it in my movie watching mode, I haven't ever noticed any lag that way either. So I wouldn't worry about lag on this projector.



I can confirm that there is not any lag with gaming... I just got my 8350 setup last night (on a wall, screen comes in next week) and play COD for a few hours and was amazed.


First off, the color looked great on my yellow painted wall but the game looked very good and I didnt experience any lag at all. I am used to play on 1080p 46" Sony Bravia and I can honestly say the gaming experience was just a good (well better considering the 120" picture).


Cant wait to get the screen in and check out NCAA 2011, Forza 3, etc... Right out of the box, the 8350 is VERY impressive.


----------



## bhurlbert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19470276
> 
> 
> Bluntly put, if one uses a independently owned "UPS Store" or must depend upon the Driver to Scan you take a chance of it not even happening. Only Retailers / Wholesalers with a actual "Shipping Dept." and who have the ability to process Shipping tickets, and who then "WATCH" the Driver scan each package as accepted can ever really be sure. When that happens, the Shipper receives a Receipt w/Tracking info "on the spot". But even then, with UPS, to receive any notification of a Tracking number the Shipper must send the info. UPS does not.
> 
> 
> Even then....crap happens. I made arrangements on a Friday for a UPS Overnight "Saturday" delivery and at considerable expense to accommodate a critical installation. I asked for an emailed Tracking number. I was told I would receive one. The following Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why? The UPS Driver comes so late to the Shipping Dept.on Fridays the "Sales Office" is closed.
> 
> UPS does not send out Email notifications like FedEx will if a Email address is provided.
> 
> 
> I avoid UPS unless there is no alternative. FedEx is very dependable. I always look for a FedEx / Kinkos location in an area I'm in/coming to for work that can receive Packages for hold, and have things shipped there in my name. (Express only "NO" Ground.) Cool thing is, if you do that, the packages are always available after 9 am
> 
> (No "1st Overnight" required...or even Priority Overnight)
> 
> 
> I know people who don't do this sort of thing regularly are not aware of such "slings and arrows". Nor the "Shields" available to prevent one from being whopped or skewered.



Guess I was thinking that things at UPS move like FedEx since I tend to get fairly accurate updates with FedEx. I've been ordering a new home theater setup and the only items to arrive without a scratch were shipped FedEx.


Need help installing/setting up/calibrating my home theater speakers and projector. Does anyone have any suggestions of someone to work with in the DFW, TX area?


Looking forward to an upgrade from my 'budget intro' to big screen via my Optoma DV10.


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlueRibbon* /forum/post/19469008
> 
> 
> Hi there, a newbie here. I plan to get the 8350 soon and will DIY a screen by painting directly on the wall. It will be in my basement with controlled lights. Other walls and ceiling are in light color so a light grey is probably the best bet. I have been studying the DIY guide but am still a little confused. So, are these the right and current materials I get from HomeDepot?
> 
> 
> Quart Custom Tint (I assume I just give these #'s to the guy at HomeDepot and they know what to do, right?)
> 
> Behr UPW 1850
> 
> 031 Lamp Black
> 
> 007 Brown Oxide
> 
> 003 Yellow Oxide
> 
> 
> add 25% MinWax Polycrylic Satin Clear (water based), and these from Michael's:
> 
> 
> 2 - 8 oz. bottles gleams ceramcoat pearl
> 
> 1 - 8 oz. bottle gleams ceramcoat silver
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about a 100-120 inch screen, with the projector mounted on the wall (on a shelf) 18' away. Will this work? Thanks in advance!



I urge you to post this over in the DIY section. You will get a LOT more response over there...plus there is a lot of good guys there who can really help you.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhurlbert* /forum/post/19470902
> 
> 
> Guess I was thinking that things at UPS move like FedEx since I tend to get fairly accurate updates with FedEx. I've been ordering a new home theater setup and the only items to arrive without a scratch were shipped FedEx.



Fed Ex is not perfect either. In fact Fed Ex, in there HIDDEN area of exclusions on insurance, say that bulbs, like projector bulbs are not covered. This is why we usually ship UPS, they do not have this exclusion.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

Just got my 8350 in and trying to sorta through some of the basics of calibration... I obviously realize that I do not need to do anything, I could just use the viewing modes that came with the PJ.


However, I read in one of the reviews/articles that you could attain some nice improvements with some minor setting changes.


In general, does anyone have an advice on where to start with figuring out all of the calbration options. This is my first PJ so just learning a lot of this stuff... TIA.


----------



## ComputerAddict

I have been debating over which Epson projector to get. Is there any good reason to get the 8700 over the 8350? I know that there is a $1100 price difference.


I have a light controlled room and will be projecting onto a 110" 16x9 screen.


This will be replacing a dying Sony VPL-HS10 LCD.


Thanks for any advice.


--Paul


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerAddict* /forum/post/19473017
> 
> 
> I have been debating over which Epson projector to get. Is there any good reason to get the 8700 over the 8350? I know that there is a $1100 price difference.
> 
> 
> I have a light controlled room and will be projecting onto a 110" 16x9 screen.
> 
> 
> This will be replacing a dying Sony VPL-HS10 LCD.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice.
> 
> 
> --Paul



THe 8700 series comes with a lamp voucher and better processing ,

Higher contrast ratio...

The 8700 is very similar to my 9700 and i have posted a alot of screen shots on my thread below

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1282483 


here is a pic from my 9700


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikey_Dawg* /forum/post/19472818
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 in and trying to sorta through some of the basics of calibration... I obviously realize that I do not need to do anything, I could just use the viewing modes that came with the PJ.
> 
> 
> However, I read in one of the reviews/articles that you could attain some nice improvements with some minor setting changes.
> 
> 
> In general, does anyone have an advice on where to start with figuring out all of the calbration options. This is my first PJ so just learning a lot of this stuff... TIA.



I use a high definition Reference Blu Ray disc for calibrating

I have a 9700ub but you could use some of the basic settings from what i have posted to help with your set up...

here is the link

have also posted calibrated screen shots
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1282483&page=2


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikey_Dawg* /forum/post/19472818
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 in and trying to sorta through some of the basics of calibration... I obviously realize that I do not need to do anything, I could just use the viewing modes that came with the PJ.
> 
> 
> However, I read in one of the reviews/articles that you could attain some nice improvements with some minor setting changes.
> 
> 
> In general, does anyone have an advice on where to start with figuring out all of the calbration options. This is my first PJ so just learning a lot of this stuff... TIA.



Use the Cinema calibration settings. This should give you a good starting point.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


.


----------



## ComputerAddict




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19473194
> 
> 
> THe 8700 series comes with a lamp voucher and better processing ,
> 
> Higher contrast ratio...
> 
> The 8700 is very similar to my 9700 and i have posted a alot of screen shots on my thread below
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1282483
> 
> 
> here is a pic from my 9700



Thank you fraisa for responding! I did look at your pics a few days ago and they look great!


Have you had a chance to see both of these projectors? Is there a huge difference?


I am wondering if you have a light controlled room would the contrast differences be minimal?


----------



## LDog2

Thanks to all on this thread, I'm now poorer but extremely happy that I replaced my Panasonic ae900! Picture is amazing out of the box. That being said, I can't leave well enough alone.


What basic settings are people using prior to calibration? By this I mean settings for Dynamic Iris, Super White, Noise Reduction, Skin Color, etc? I've used Art's settings for one preset and my own calibration for another but obviously the above mentioned options add some degree of complexity. I'm splitting hairs at this point because the Cinema mode looked very good with factory settings but, as with anyone on these forums, half the fun is seeing how much I can improve them. My room is fully light controlled, black ceiling/ dark walls and I am using HDMI exclusively. 156" Elite 1.0 gain screen at 17 ft.


I'm also noticing a noise (sounds somewhat like a hard drive clicking) when the iris is on...Anyone else hear this? Not loud but distracting once you know it is there. It brings back bad memories of my dynamic iris "rattling" on the panny which I finally disconnected to kill the noise. Would like to know if this is "normal" as I'm still in my 14 day return period.


Any thoughts would be appreciated.


----------



## reye

Hi all,


I notice I can't use the full screen function in hte menu setup. Can't remember exactly where in the menu. But I know some of you know what I am talking about, I hope. Somewhere in the setup menu. There is an option to choose fall screen. But is not high lighted and can't be select full. Anyone know why that is? I am currently using HDMI for connection. Thanks to all that could give feedback on this.


----------



## scottpe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerAddict* /forum/post/19473422
> 
> 
> Thank you fraisa for responding! I did look at your pics a few days ago and they look great!
> 
> 
> Have you had a chance to see both of these projectors? Is there a huge difference?
> 
> 
> I am wondering if you have a light controlled room would the contrast differences be minimal?



Paul, projectors are just like most other technology products, in that there are definitely diminishing returns as cost increases. Is an 8700 better than the 8350? Absolutely...but I'd wager that it's a minor improvement. Is nearly twice the cost worth an incremental improvement in performance? That's for you to decide.


In my opinion, if you're upgrading from an ailing HS10, you're going to be THRILLED with the picture of the 8350. I upgraded from an HS20, and I couldn't be more pleased. The 8350 bests my HS20 in just about every way possible, yet it costs less than half of what I paid for my HS20. It would be an even bigger improvement over an HS10.


Personally, I'd rather take that extra grand and put it toward upgrading other parts of my theater. Everyone has their own priorities though...


Good luck.


----------



## Heavywait

I just got rid of an HS20 to some one who was very happy to have it.In its day a nice PJ, but no comparison on any level to 8350.


You will be beyond thrilled .for the money the 8350 is a super buy and flat out bests a HS 20 in every way.


----------



## copter17

I hooked up my new 8350 to a LG BD550 with HDMI. I do not believe I'm getting 1080 out of it. When I go to THE 8350 menu and scroll down the source says HDMI but the signal says component. Do you think this is the projector or the LG player. Any ideas on what to check. Also when I go to turn off the projector I have to hit the power button twice to get the signial to shut it down. Is that normal?


----------



## colt54qg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19470593
> 
> 
> What size screen is that?




Thats a 110" screen. It probably has a 1.0 gain since its so old.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ComputerAddict* /forum/post/19473422
> 
> 
> Thank you fraisa for responding! I did look at your pics a few days ago and they look great!
> 
> 
> Have you had a chance to see both of these projectors? Is there a huge difference?
> 
> 
> I am wondering if you have a light controlled room would the contrast differences be minimal?



Yes there is a huge difference..

If you go with a projector with higher contrast then you can get away with a lower gain screen....

There is extra Settings on the 8700

The 8700 is THX so you get the calibrated setting..

When i started looking at projectors i started with last years 8100..

but once i discovered the specs i then upgraded to the 8500...

Then when i found out I could get an extra bulb, Mount , Cable COver and extra year warrenty I went for the 9500 but

then i heard about the 9700 series so i waited for it to land ....


But the 8700 is a very very good projector and worth the extra cost...


here is the spec links for each projector
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H419020 


8350
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...seBVCookie=yes


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Waterski* /forum/post/19377552
> 
> 
> Long time lurker. First time poster.
> 
> 
> I did a quick scan of the thread and did not see this.
> 
> 
> In real life usage, how would the 8350 compare for picture quality to the BenQ 8700+ that just died on me. The specs look great and the reviews are really good, I would rather keep the extra $1000 that this unit would save me vs some of the other higher end units, But I do not want a downgrade in HDTV picture quality.



Hey WaterSki,


I'm in a similar position, except that I have the slightly older BenQ PE8700 - did you get to do any comparisons with the 8350?


I'd love to hear any other viewpoints - the PE8700 is quoted as having a 2000:1 CR, 1000 lumens, and native resolution is 1280 x 720. I only watch movies (no tv or sports) and a do a small amount of gaming (PS/3). I have a 100% light controlled room and use a 110" screen with a 13'6" throw distance.


Am I going to be wowed? Given that my BenQ just died, I'd even settle for a straight 1:1 swap in quality!


----------



## tremor13

Ok, I'm stumped. I'm replacing a 4 year old InFocus IN72. My configuration is a 120" 16:9 screen with a throw distance of 18'. This is apparently an oddball setup.


I have an InFocus Pro8200 on order, but don't know when they're actually shipping those. I'm looking at the 8350, but I've got a question --


When I put in my numbers for both the 8350 and the IN72 in the calculators at projectorcentral.com, it shows that the IN72 is actually giving a BRIGHTER picture!?!? I do not see how this is possible. I have gone through the whole calculator -- the different video modes, different efficiencies, etc., but whatever I do with the calculator, the IN72 shows brighter.


I don't see how that is remotely possible, but I don't want to take a $1300 gamble, either. The reason that I'm replacing the IN72 is that it's too dim. It's fine to watch movies and such, but it's pretty much got to be pitch black for a reasonable picture.


Can anyone sort this out?


----------



## rraulston

for those of you who play first person shooters.......this thing rocks!


----------



## sjovanov

Hello all,

Im brand new to projectors but i do have my fair share of plasma tv's. Well today i recieved my 8350 and never believed how sharp of a picture this projector projects. Right now im just displaying the picture on a brown wall in my basement and projected a 154in diagnal picture and the thing looks stunning. Cant wait to see what it looks like once i make a screen for it.


----------



## scottpe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tremor13* /forum/post/19474663
> 
> 
> Ok, I'm stumped. I'm replacing a 4 year old InFocus IN72. My configuration is a 120" 16:9 screen with a throw distance of 18'. This is apparently an oddball setup.
> 
> 
> I have an InFocus Pro8200 on order, but don't know when they're actually shipping those. I'm looking at the 8350, but I've got a question --
> 
> 
> When I put in my numbers for both the 8350 and the IN72 in the calculators at projectorcentral.com, it shows that the IN72 is actually giving a BRIGHTER picture!?!? I do not see how this is possible. I have gone through the whole calculator -- the different video modes, different efficiencies, etc., but whatever I do with the calculator, the IN72 shows brighter.
> 
> 
> I don't see how that is remotely possible, but I don't want to take a $1300 gamble, either. The reason that I'm replacing the IN72 is that it's too dim. It's fine to watch movies and such, but it's pretty much got to be pitch black for a reasonable picture.
> 
> 
> Can anyone sort this out?



I can't help you with the calculator, but what I can do is provide feedback from my first hand experience with this PJ. I have pretty much the exact same throw and screen size as you (~18' throw on a 120" light gray screen with no gain), and the 8350 is plenty bright to me. And if you kick it up to "Dynamic" mode it is VERY bright. I've found that watching movies with some ambient light in the room is no problem in that mode. I love the flexibility this thing has in that respect -- you don't have to have a perfectly light controlled room to enjoy it.


----------



## copter17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19474235
> 
> 
> I hooked up my new 8350 to a LG BD550 with HDMI. I do not believe I'm getting 1080 out of it. When I go to THE 8350 menu and scroll down the source says HDMI but the signal says component. Do you think this is the projector or the LG player. Any ideas on what to check. Also when I go to turn off the projector I have to hit the power button twice to get the signial to shut it down. Is that normal?



Does anyone know what needs to be reset. Thanks


----------



## ComputerAddict




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottpe* /forum/post/19473639
> 
> 
> Paul, projectors are just like most other technology products, in that there are definitely diminishing returns as cost increases. Is an 8700 better than the 8350? Absolutely...but I'd wager that it's a minor improvement. Is nearly twice the cost worth an incremental improvement in performance? That's for you to decide.
> 
> 
> In my opinion, if you're upgrading from an ailing HS10, you're going to be THRILLED with the picture of the 8350. I upgraded from an HS20, and I couldn't be more pleased. The 8350 bests my HS20 in just about every way possible, yet it costs less than half of what I paid for my HS20. It would be an even bigger improvement over an HS10.
> 
> 
> Personally, I'd rather take that extra grand and put it toward upgrading other parts of my theater. Everyone has their own priorities though...
> 
> 
> Good luck.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heavywait* /forum/post/19473685
> 
> 
> I just got rid of an HS20 to some one who was very happy to have it.In its day a nice PJ, but no comparison on any level to 8350.
> 
> 
> You will be beyond thrilled .for the money the 8350 is a super buy and flat out bests a HS 20 in every way.



Thanks Scott and Heavywait for your opinions they did reinforce what I was thinking. I made the decision to go with the 8350.


I haven't paid any attention to the prices of projectors over the past 8 years so I was expecting to have to fork out what I paid for the HS10 (and that was a great price at the time).


I am definitely happy to save myself some money as well.


----------



## ComputerAddict




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19474287
> 
> 
> Yes there is a huge difference..
> 
> If you go with a projector with higher contrast then you can get away with a lower gain screen....
> 
> There is extra Settings on the 8700
> 
> The 8700 is THX so you get the calibrated setting..
> 
> When i started looking at projectors i started with last years 8100..
> 
> but once i discovered the specs i then upgraded to the 8500...
> 
> Then when i found out I could get an extra bulb, Mount , Cable COver and extra year warrenty I went for the 9500 but
> 
> then i heard about the 9700 series so i waited for it to land ....
> 
> 
> But the 8700 is a very very good projector and worth the extra cost...
> 
> 
> here is the spec links for each projector
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H419020
> 
> 
> 8350
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...seBVCookie=yes



Thanks for all your efforts fraisa.


I was struggling with the fact that I paid more for my first projector than the cost of the 8700. I decided to get the 8350 because at less than half the price I am still getting a huge performance increase.


I will just have to refrain from looking at anymore screen shots of the 8700/9700.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

^^^ Electronics do not usually fall this much in price. The economy Tanked, so did electronics prices. From people in the industry who specialize in speakers, projectors, or flat panels there is pretty much a 35% decrease in business over the last 9 months. Even the big guys are hurting


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19475644
> 
> 
> ^^^ Electronics do not usually fall this much in price. The economy Tanked, so did electronics prices. From people in the industry who specialize in speakers, projectors, or flat panels there is pretty much a 35% decrease in business over the last 9 months. Even the big guys are hurting



The only thing that is holding its own right now is price wise is 3d flat panel..

and i think that manufactors are using that as there profit saving grace ...

But it wont last long before we see those prices drop aswell


----------



## audioadrenaline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19475217
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what needs to be reset. Thanks



Copter, I have the BD570 and strangely, I had to go into the menu and tell it to output 1080p. It wasn't the default for whatever reason. Hopefully this will apply to your BD550 too.


----------



## Gordon Parr

Will be pulling the trigger on an 8350 VERY soon!!!


Anyone know of someone looking for an Epson TW100 for a good price?


----------



## cdelena




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tremor13* /forum/post/19474663
> 
> 
> Ok, I'm stumped. I'm replacing a 4 year old InFocus IN72. My configuration is a 120" 16:9 screen with a throw distance of 18'. This is apparently an oddball setup.
> 
> ...



We have a relatively long throw of 19'3" to a 110" screen with 1.0 gain. We like a pretty bright picture but the 8350 in dynamic mode does a great job.


----------



## colt54qg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/19474857
> 
> 
> for those of you who play first person shooters.......this thing rocks!



Call of Duty is amazing on this thing!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19473194
> 
> 
> THe 8700 series comes with a lamp voucher and
> 
> here is a pic from my 9700
> 
> ...



Looks very good! Might want to place a piece of velvet or even a towel on top of the center channel though.


----------



## pa55ion

After seeing so many positive reviews and feedbacks about the Epson 8350, I have decided to pull the trigger real soon, and it will be my very first front projector.










I have a 16'W x 20'L x 8'H, fully light controlled media room. Seating is flexible. Projector will be ceiling mounted between 12' to 16'. Screen will be placed on the 16' wall. I wanted a 110" fixed frame screen originally, but the wife wanted at least 120". She wins, of course.







Currently I would like to spend $500 or less on the screen. I checked around and I found the following screens meet the requirement:


AccuScreens Gray

AccuScreens Matte White

Dragonfly High Contrast Gray

Dragonfly Matte White

Elite ezFrame CineGrey

Elite ezFrame CineWhite


What your thoughts are of these screens? Which one works better in my case?


Thanks.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pa55ion* /forum/post/19478350
> 
> 
> After seeing so many positive reviews and feedbacks about the Epson 8350, I have decided to pull the trigger real soon, and it will be my very first front projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 16'W x 20'L x 8'H, fully light controlled media room. Seating is flexible. Projector will be ceiling mounted between 12' to 16'. Screen will be placed on the 16' wall. I wanted a 110" fixed frame screen originally, but the wife wanted at least 120". She wins, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I would like to spend $500 or less on the screen. I checked around and I found the following screens meet the requirement:
> 
> 
> AccuScreens Gray
> 
> AccuScreens Matte White
> 
> Dragonfly High Contrast Gray
> 
> Dragonfly Matte White
> 
> Elite ezFrame CineGrey
> 
> Elite ezFrame CineWhite
> 
> 
> What your thoughts are of these screens? Which one works better in my case?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Dangerous question with the Man from Mississippi hanging out here!!


----------



## wlecount




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pa55ion* /forum/post/19478350
> 
> 
> After seeing so many positive reviews and feedbacks about the Epson 8350, I have decided to pull the trigger real soon, and it will be my very first front projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 16'W x 20'L x 8'H, fully light controlled media room. Seating is flexible. Projector will be ceiling mounted between 12' to 16'. Screen will be placed on the 16' wall. I wanted a 110" fixed frame screen originally, but the wife wanted at least 120". She wins, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I would like to spend $500 or less on the screen. I checked around and I found the following screens meet the requirement:
> 
> 
> AccuScreens Gray
> 
> AccuScreens Matte White
> 
> Dragonfly High Contrast Gray
> 
> Dragonfly Matte White
> 
> Elite ezFrame CineGrey
> 
> Elite ezFrame CineWhite
> 
> 
> What your thoughts are of these screens? Which one works better in my case?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I really don't know what is the best, but I bought a 120" Elite ezFrame CineWhite on Monday night from amazon and with Prime it was on my wall by Wednesday. Basically the exact same setup as yours only mine is 12' wide. The white just seemed to be the better option with the 1.1 gain. I didn't think I needed the gain but it wont hurt my setup either.


----------



## pa55ion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wlecount* /forum/post/19478925
> 
> 
> I really don't know what is the best, but I bought a 120" Elite ezFrame CineWhite on Monday night from amazon and with Prime it was on my wall by Wednesday. Basically the exact same setup as yours only mine is 12' wide. The white just seemed to be the better option with the 1.1 gain. I didn't think I needed the gain but it wont hurt my setup either.



Good to know that.







Thanks.


BTW, I sent you a pm.


----------



## tyee

Has anyone seen a 9350 compared to an 8350? I talked to my local distributor last week and he said the 9350 has a better picture than the 8350. Whether that's due to it having calibration controls that the 8350 doesn't, I don't know?? Everyone here says they are the same picture wise, but....


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyee* /forum/post/19479584
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen a 9350 compared to an 8350? I talked to my local distributor last week and he said the 9350 has a better picture than the 8350. Whether that's due to it having calibration controls that the 8350 doesn't, I don't know?? Everyone here says they are the same picture wise, but....



I believe they have the same specs except the 9350 comes in black, supports an anamorphic lens and you a get longer warranty and extra bulb.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> call of duty is amazing on this thing!



+1


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19479892
> 
> 
> I believe they have the same specs except the 9350 comes in black, supports an anamorphic lens and you a get longer warranty and extra bulb.



Also comes with Ceiling Mount and Cable Cover


----------



## Greg Matty

Would anyone hazard a guess as to how much an improvement this PJ would be over a Sanyo Z4? I am particulary interested in better black levels. Also, is the lens shift worth leaving on? With my Z4 I have it turned off and in Cinema mode I believe for the best contrats. Picture is okay if a little dark and less than stellar blacks.


It is time to upgrade and this Epson looks like a nice unit.


Greg


----------



## BBQ7

Quote:

Originally Posted by *colt54qg* 
Call of Duty is amazing on this thing!
So no noticeable lag or delay?


----------



## BlackoutsBox

Loving the Epson 8350... up to 75 hours on the lamp now so guess I'll do a calibration but the picture looks perfect.


Sometimes, I notice though on my dvitohdmi out into hdmi2 on the projector. I get what seems to be less than full 1080p resolution.. if I set it to be my native windows screen, dont see the task bar and ect things look a little cropped and it is set and recognizes the projector in win 7 64bit and I'm set at 1920 and cant change the aspect buttons.





















- Blackout

http://blackout.com


----------



## copter17

Can I please get someone who's using an HDMI cable to go into their menu and scroll down to INFO and read what it says showing for INPUT SIGNAL. Mine says COMPONENT and I believe it should say HDMI. Thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greg Matty* /forum/post/19480860
> 
> 
> Would anyone hazard a guess as to how much an improvement this PJ would be over a Sanyo Z4? I am particulary interested in better black levels. Also, is the lens shift worth leaving on? With my Z4 I have it turned off and in Cinema mode I believe for the best contrats. Picture is okay if a little dark and less than stellar blacks.
> 
> 
> It is time to upgrade and this Epson looks like a nice unit.
> 
> 
> Greg



I'm not sure if lens shift has any significant impact on black levels, if any at all.

The auto iris does. I noticed very little difference in black levels in Cinema mode so I leave it off.

Also, the lens shift mechanism is sensitive and has no lock and tends to drift when auto iris is enabled due to the movement of the iris.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19481882
> 
> 
> Can I please get someone who's using an HDMI cable to go into their menu and scroll down to INFO and read what it says showing for INPUT SIGNAL. Mine says COMPONENT and I believe it should say HDMI. Thanks



Try unplugging your hdmi cable from the projector and see if you get the no signal text on the screen as well as the hdmi text in the upper right corner.

This would at least validate the projector is expecting a signal to be present on the hdmi input, which was the last valid signal it detected.


----------



## colt54qg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/19481139
> 
> 
> So no noticeable lag or delay?



None that I can see it looks really good. Im also having to use a 40ft hdmi cord off ebay and theres still no problems.


----------



## HDeRaNgE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlackoutsBox* /forum/post/19481166
> 
> 
> Loving the Epson 8350... up to 75 hours on the lamp now so guess I'll do a calibration but the picture looks perfect.
> 
> 
> Sometimes, I notice though on my dvitohdmi out into hdmi2 on the projector. I get what seems to be less than full 1080p resolution.. if I set it to be my native windows screen, dont see the task bar and ect things look a little cropped and it is set and recognizes the projector in win 7 64bit and I'm set at 1920 and cant change the aspect buttons.



Check your overscan settings. Had a similar issue with my MacBook Pro.


----------



## mhdiab

So say that someone hated the white but didn't want to spend another grand to get a black unit. Suggestions???? Painting doesn't seem like a good option. I can get some black thin "cloth" that I am using to blackout my ceiling. If I didn't put that over the vents do you guys think it would make the unit to hot?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19478086
> 
> 
> Looks very good! Might want to place a piece of velvet or even a towel on top of the center channel though.



Ya been thinking the same thing...


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19481882
> 
> 
> Can I please get someone who's using an HDMI cable to go into their menu and scroll down to INFO and read what it says showing for INPUT SIGNAL. Mine says COMPONENT and I believe it should say HDMI. Thanks



Mine says the same thing too. I tried everything, even tried different settings on my blu-ray player and still nothing.


Did a search and this is what I found out.


This is straight from Epson site:


Component Appears as Input Signal when HMDI is Connected


If my projector is displaying a digital signal over HDMI, why do I see "Component" in the Input Signal field on the projector Info screen?


Component refers to a video signal that splits luminance and color into separate components or channels. The signal can be analog or digital. The projector does not distinguish between analog or digital so when it detects either type of signal it identifies it as "Component" in the Input Signal field.

http://epson.custhelp.com/app/answer...i-is-connected


----------



## copter17

Thanks Neworder59 and 42 Plasmaman for the reply. I just wanted to make sure that thei was nothing wrong with the projector before spending the time and effort to ceiling mount it.


----------



## joshs232

I got my replacement 8350 from visual apex and the new one is much better than the original one.


One question, I hooked my HTPC up to it and tried to set it to 1920x1080 and the projector switches to a black screen that says "not supported".


What am I missing for setting the pc to 1920x1080? It should support that correct? Does it need to be something other than 60hz?


----------



## nobuyersremorse

I have a pioneer plasma in my living room right now, and plan to replace it with this unit... I have fairly high ambient light will the picture still look ok during the day?


I will be throwing from a shelf about one foot below the center of the screen from 10.5 to 11'. How big of a screen can I go? Bigger is better right?!!!


Any advice would be appriciated!


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nobuyersremorse* 
I have a pioneer plasma in my living room right now, and plan to replace it with this unit... I have fairly high ambient light will the picture still look ok during the day?


I will be throwing from a shelf about one foot below the center of the screen from 10.5 to 11'. How big of a screen can I go? Bigger is better right?!!!


Any advice would be appriciated!
For High Ambient light Black Diamond Screen is the way to Go By SI

they Have a .8 Gain or 1.4 Screen...

hear is a pic with lights on...

I have Black Diamond .8 Gain

Even with the Lights fully on the pic is not washed out like it would be on a matte white screen...
http://www.screeninnovations.com/testimonials/ 


































Same play on the wall with out black Diamond


----------



## CougarCruiser

I'm looking to dive into projector land... I'm definitely going to get the 8350 and the Elite screen fixed frame. The value for both of those items are tough to pass up.


I will be wiring 2 35 foot hdmi cables from where my components are to where the projector is mounted.


Question for folks --- I know the 8350 has an IR sensor for the remote, but how do most folks trigger the power for the 8350? I have a harmony remote for my system, but IR won't go backwards (that I am aware of).


I would love it that when I power up the receiver, blue ray player - the projector comes on without having to point at the IR sensor.


How are most folks doing this? I know the 8350 has an output trigger - but I don't think that supports 'inbound' - does it?


----------



## joshs232

I've never had a problem with pointing the remote at the screen and having the IR on the projector pick it up.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Nobuyersremorse: Given that your projector is lined up with the center of your screen, another option would be the Da-Lite High Power fabric. We have two screens with this material; it is awesome, with 2.8 gain in the central cone, and yet no hotspotting, screen grain, or sparklies. It also rejects ambient light very effectively, as long as there is no ambient light coming from the projector wall. Any lights or windows back there would be a no-no. With all that gain, and the brightness of the 8350, it delivers an amazing plasma-like punch, even on a pretty big (110" - 120" diagonal) screen. It would probably be worth using a brighter but less accurate color mode during the daytime, and then drop back to accurate colors for night-time cinema.


Kevin McCarthy


----------



## nobuyersremorse

thank you for all of your replies... With the projector throwing from 10.5 or 11', how big of a screen could I get? With the high ambient light is it a bad idea to increase the screen size? I would like to do at least 100" but would be much happier with 120" plus!! Again, about 11' throw from 10' seating? What do you think?


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

At maximum zoom you can go as large as a 112" diagonal 16:9 screen at 11' throw. By the way, Da_lite will make the screen any size you want for a small fee, so 112" is actually do-able.


Screen calculators:

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


Kevin


----------



## nobuyersremorse

Kevin, they have a pull down with the high power (Da-Lite Deluxe Model B Projection Screens) for just over $300. Or the fixed (Da-Lite Perm-Wall Projection Screens) for just over $700. I am not to worried about how the fixture will look on the wall. Will there be a big difference in the picture? And they have tons of models... I would prefer a fixed but at les then half the price... Where do I start?


----------



## microphage1

I got the epson 8350, a 100 inch Elite Screens with a 6 inch drop. Room is ~13x13 and 8 feet for the height. I'm sitting about 11 feet away and feel like I need more drop. Any recommendations on how much I would need as a general rule?


----------



## indybrian

I've read on here that a general rule is 1/3 or the screen below the eye height when watching. There is also a calculator I found on here but can't find my bookmark. I'll keep looking for you.


Ordered mine from Projector People, should be here Wednesday. Too bad it will be a few weeks before everything else is ready.


----------



## nobuyersremorse

Ok, I have done a ton of reading and I have myself narrowed down to two questions... 1) at my 10' viewing, 100" or 106", yes I have looked at every calculator and read for hours. 2) with the HP screen will I be happy with the pull down or should I fork up the extra cash for a fixed? If fixed, which da lite? Thank you for your help?


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

The choice comes down to personal tastes, but for me, a fixed frame screen works best in a dedicated theater room. If the projector is going in a living/family room, a large fixed frame screen looks odd to me when the projector is off. My favorite approach is a motorized screen; in our living room, a Da-Lite Designer Contour Electrol is unobtrusively ceiling mounted, but with the press of a button, the screen descends just in front of our 65" daytime TV. The electric descent has a cool James Bond feel to it. In another house of ours, I had to go with a pull-down (Da-Lite Designer Contour Manual with CSR), because there were some tricky placement issues, and the extra length needed for a motorized screen was blocked by a wall sconce.


PS: Da-Lite now offers two versions of the High Power fabric: the original 2.8 gain, and the newer 2.4 gain. If you don't specify you get the 2.4. There is a debate in the Screens forum about which is best; if your viewing space is wide, you may want to go with the newer. Both of my projectors (JVC RS15 and Epson 8350) are at long throw, with a narrow seating area, and I preferred the higher gain, which is also a thicker fabric. The High Power screen actually does pretty well off axis; it's just much brighter in the central cone.


Kevin


----------



## rraulston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copter17* /forum/post/19481882
> 
> 
> Can I please get someone who's using an HDMI cable to go into their menu and scroll down to INFO and read what it says showing for INPUT SIGNAL. Mine says COMPONENT and I believe it should say HDMI. Thanks



Component....


----------



## mike 01hawk

My turn!

*Room Dimensions:* 20x22
*Screen:* ~118inch canvas painted light gray (Behr Silver Screen) w/ a roller
*Throw distance:* 14ft 10inch


It was 4pm w/ an overcast sky so it wasn't full in your face bright in the room, but still pretty bright. There are 2 windows per wall:































Stock projector settings, nothing has been changed. Dynamic = Torch bright for ambient viewing. Cinema = Darkest setting, better color/flesh tones

Camera on tri-pod, Auto ISO, using 2 second timer to reduce blur

*1920x1080 Desktop Background*


Blinds open, Cinema mode










Blinds open, Dynamic mode










Blinds closed, Dynamic mode!!!







:sunny:

















*Avatar 720p rip*


Blinds open, Cinema mode










Blinds open, Dynamic mode










Blinds closed, Cinema mode










Blinds closed, Dynamic mode









*Full darkness outside, with 4 60w light bulbs on full blast in center of the room*

Easily watchable, but I'd rather not have the lights on full blast.


Dynamic










Dynamic









*Install notes*

I will be mounting the screen lower to reduce eye strain.


I will be adding a black frame.


I will also be mounting the projector as close as I can to the screen for 118 inches. This means the projector will be even brighter. Currently it is 15fl @ 14'10" vs 24fl @ 11'7", 3 feet closer to the screen once it's permanent.










I could probably use a screen with a bit of gain on it (throws light back at you so as to help ambient light viewing). I'll see how things go after I've got everything in their permanent positions. Right now I'm just wearing shades and keeping it in Dynamic all the time.


----------



## Bacchus

It's always hard to tell from photos, but most of that looks pretty washed out, and with the lights off, it looks way too "hot"


----------



## BBQ7

Love the pictures, keep them coming!


----------



## colt54qg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Component....



Mine says RGB-Video ... Weird why does it say that?


----------



## colt54qg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Mine says RGB-Video ... Weird why does it say that?



Does anyone elses say RGB video next to input signal?


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bacchus* /forum/post/19488026
> 
> 
> It's always hard to tell from photos, but most of that looks pretty washed out, and with the lights off, it looks way too "hot"



Yeah, I definitely need to mess w/ the settings.


My pics were mainly to show light output @ almost 15ft throwing a 120 inch image onto a basic gray screen.


I can already tell for my application though:

Ambient light = Dynamic or Living room mode at the very least

Once light can be controlled = Cinema is fine.


This thing is sooooo much nicer than my 2004 Sony VPL-HS20. I can already tell that after only an couple hours of messing w/ the 8350.


----------



## lsiberian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19487124
> 
> 
> I've read on here that a general rule is 1/3 or the screen below the eye height when watching. There is also a calculator I found on here but can't find my bookmark. I'll keep looking for you.
> 
> 
> Ordered mine from Projector People, should be here Wednesday. Too bad it will be a few weeks before everything else is ready.



My picture is above the speakers Just don't get it too high or you will feel pain and sickness in your stomach. Eye strain sucks really bad. Pencil pushups do help though.


----------



## lsiberian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/19487641
> 
> 
> The choice comes down to personal tastes, but for me, a fixed frame screen works best in a dedicated theater room. If the projector is going in a living/family room, a large fixed frame screen looks odd to me when the projector is off. My favorite approach is a motorized screen; in our living room, a Da-Lite Designer Contour Electrol is unobtrusively ceiling mounted, but with the press of a button, the screen descends just in front of our 65" daytime TV. The electric descent has a cool James Bond feel to it. In another house of ours, I had to go with a pull-down (Da-Lite Designer Contour Manual with CSR), because there were some tricky placement issues, and the extra length needed for a motorized screen was blocked by a wall sconce.
> 
> 
> PS: Da-Lite now offers two versions of the High Power fabric: the original 2.8 gain, and the newer 2.4 gain. If you don't specify you get the 2.4. There is a debate in the Screens forum about which is best; if your viewing space is wide, you may want to go with the newer. Both of my projectors (JVC RS15 and Epson 8350) are at long throw, with a narrow seating area, and I preferred the higher gain, which is also a thicker fabric. The High Power screen actually does pretty well off axis; it's just much brighter in the central cone.
> 
> 
> Kevin



Problem is motorized screens cost almost as much as the Black Diamond ones. If you go motorized make sure you get tab tensioned.


----------



## colt54qg

Alright the room is finally all done. This was a major DIY project. Thanks for all the help you guys especially MM. Here are some pics of the finished product.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colt54qg* /forum/post/19488464
> 
> 
> Alright the room is finally all done. This was a major DIY project. Thanks for all the help you guys especially MM. Here are some pics of the finished product.



The brightness of the image is over driving your Camera's Imaging chip. Zoom in about 50% from that distance and take shots at 200 & 6-800 ISO.


----------



## WithAlligators

So my (new and wonderful) PS3 has given me a fifth color option, sony's x.v.color. Anybody have any good cal settings for it?

Also, I picked up a fairly cheap STR-DG910 receiver. I've since learned that the HDMI only goes up to 1.2 on it. What would I be giving up video wise by running a PS3 (Bluray, netflix, gaming) and an Xbox360(gaming) through this? I am aware of the lack of Audio codecs, and what I lose there, but I am more of a videophile than an audiophile. However, I grabbed it cheaply enough that I could resell it (at a small profit even, maybe) so no biggie.

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## fitbrit

I just joined this club... at least I've ordered the 8350 from Cleveland Plasma. It's being shipped to NY near the Quebec border, and I'm going to drive the 40 mins down there to pick it up on Friday or Saturday.


The room for it isn't still under construction, but we decided that the best way to decide where it will be installed is to buy in and then project the image onto the wall from all the possible locations, most of which require varying degrees of horizontal lens shift. I'll add to the pictures when we're done.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wlecount* /forum/post/19478925
> 
> 
> I really don't know what is the best, but I bought a 120" Elite ezFrame CineWhite on Monday night from amazon and with Prime it was on my wall by Wednesday. Basically the exact same setup as yours only mine is 12' wide. The white just seemed to be the better option with the 1.1 gain. I didn't think I needed the gain but it wont hurt my setup either.



For those considering the Elite in Cinewhite, you should take a look at the SableFrame line as well. The SableFrame uses the same Cinewhite material and the same tansioning system. The only difference is in the shape profile of the extruded aluminum frame. The EZ-Frame is square, and the SableFrame is rounded. The point is that the SableFrame is considerably cheaper. I saved around $100 on a 120" by going SableFrame.


Seems to be a well kept secret, although there is information over in the screen forum.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19489067
> 
> 
> I just joined this club... at least I've ordered the 8350 from Cleveland Plasma. It's being shipped to NY near the Quebec border, and I'm going to drive the 40 mins down there to pick it up on Friday or Saturday.
> 
> 
> The room for it isn't still under construction, but we decided that the best way to decide where it will be installed is to buy in and then project the image onto the wall from all the possible locations, most of which require varying degrees of horizontal lens shift. I'll add to the pictures when we're done.



I suggest you interact with us on here BEFORE you make any final decision on mounting/screen size. There is a lot of prior experience to avail yourself of and it should be "availed of" if at all possible to assure you of the best possible results and the least possible issues.


Keep these things in mind.
Place the PJ as close to the screen as possible.
The further you place the PJ away, the more your Lens shift will provide horizontal movement.
The larger your image, the more "shift" movement will be available if the distance is also factored in.


----------



## conqst99

Has anyone noticed a downward "image drop" or shift with the lens from one day to the next? I have mine mounted very securely to the floor joists in the basement in my theater room. With my old Sanyo Z5 and the HC8100 that I had for about a month before returning for the HC8350, I had no problems whatsoever with the image dropping off the screen from one viewing to another. With the HC8350, from one night to the next, I have to readjust the vertical lens shift knob to bring the image back up ( it drops about half the vertical height of my 120" screen). I was thinking that maybe the kids running around upstairs may jog the lens and cause it to drift downward. My old 720p Z5 had a lock switch on it to lock the lens position in place. The Epsons don't have this to my knowledge. The HC8100 had no shift in the lens and the kids had the same crazy behavior back then too with running around. Any ideas? Do I have a lemon that needs to be sent back / in for repair? Its less than a month old but a pain to take down from my ceiling mount. And the picture is breathtaking, just a bit of a pain to have to mess with the vertical shift knob every time I want to watch a movie in the theater room. Thanks for any comments.

Dave


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *conqst99* /forum/post/19489743
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed a downward "image drop" or shift with the lens from one day to the next? I have mine mounted very securely to the floor joists in the basement in my theater room. With my old Sanyo Z5 and the HC8100 that I had for about a month before returning for the HC8350, I had no problems whatsoever with the image dropping off the screen from one viewing to another. With the HC8350, from one night to the next, I have to readjust the vertical lens shift knob to bring the image back up ( it drops about half the vertical height of my 120" screen). I was thinking that maybe the kids running around upstairs may jog the lens and cause it to drift downward. Any ideas? Do I have a lemon that needs to be sent back / in for repair? Its less than a month old but a pain to take down from my ceiling mount. And the picture is breathtaking, just a bit of a pain to have to mess with the vertical shift knob every time I want to watch a movie in the theater room. Thanks for any comments.
> 
> Dave



I had to trim theLen's Yellow Packing ring and reinsert it under the Lens to prevent the same issue from occurring repeatedly with a Theater's ceiling mounted installation where the Owner had "5" Subs and incredible Bass. One big BOOM/Crash/ Shudder...and the Len's would drop.


He had hoped he's solved the issue by buying vibration-absorbing Mats for the Subs, but no. The percussive Bass Waves moving air pressure against the expanse of Ceiling was enough to shake the lens and cause it to Drop.


I gradually trimmed down a piece of the curved Foam, inserted it and tried to shift down the lens into proper position. 2-3 times it was still too big, but eventually I got it so that it was correct, and the shifting of the Lens made the lens bottom out and rest on the Foam.


No issues anymore...and let me tell ya, I TOASTED those subs a'goodin' !!!!










Do it as such and it will be Kid-proof.


----------



## conqst99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19489814
> 
> 
> I had to trim theLen's Yellow Packing ring and reinsert it under the Lens to prevent the same issue from occurring repeatedly with a Theater's ceiling mounted installation where the Owner had "5" Subs and incredible Bass. One big BOOM/Crash/ Shudder...and the Len's would drop.
> 
> 
> He had hoped he's solved the issue by buying vibration-absorbing Mats for the Subs, but no. The percussive Bass Waves moving air pressure against the expanse of Ceiling was enough to shake the lens and cause it to Drop.
> 
> 
> I gradually trimmed down a piece of the curved Foam, inserted it and tried to shift down the lens into proper position. 2-3 times it was still too big, but eventually I got it so that it was correct, and the shifting of the Lens made the lens bottom out and rest on the Foam.
> 
> 
> No issues anymore...and let me tell ya, I TOASTED those subs a'goodin' !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do it as such and it will be Kid-proof.



Very good idea! I still have the ring and will try that. I wonder why Epson doesn't have the locking mechanism for the shifting capabilities.


----------



## Datsm1015

I will be joining the Epson 8350 family soon. I was going to wait for Black Friday weekend to see if there are any deals. Has anyone heard of anything yet? So far I can get it for $1199 from projectorpeople.


----------



## conqst99

I got a totally awesome deal from HH Gregg. They didn't even have it stocked at the store yet. Bought it from them about 3 weeks after it came out. They had it on their website for $1299 then had a 20% off sale on any one item for about a week, then I signed up for their email list and got a coupon online for an additional $75 off. Ordered it and picked up 2 days later from store (had to be shipped in from warehouse) for about $965 before tax. Like it, great picture, just a little dissatisfied with the lens shift drop from day to day. Another user suggested utilizing the yellow foam shipping piece and cut down so the lens can rest on it and won't move.


----------



## GreyTheater

I have jumped in the projector pool! Just ordered the 8350 last night and can't wait for it to come in. I have to get the basement painted and ready. Hopefully I can get it installed in the next couple of weeks. I can't wait!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *conqst99* /forum/post/19490178
> 
> 
> Like it, great picture, just a little dissatisfied with the lens shift drop from day to day. Another user suggested utilizing the yellow foam shipping piece and cut down so the lens can rest on it and won't move.



An alternative would be to tape down the lens shift dials.

I've noticed in my situation, the lens shifts only if my auto iris is enabled.

I assume the mechanical movement of the iris is enough to vibrate the projector and cause the lens to shift.

Otherwise, the lens doesn't shift on it's own.


----------



## jspursfan

MississippiMan -


I ordered my HDMI v1.4 cables from your preferred source. They were great on the phone and hooked me up for $1/foot. Not sure if I'll need v1.4 cables, but the price was good enough to buy these over regular cables from monoprice.


Anyway, looking forward to building/sanding/painting a custom screen in the 110-120" range. I sent you a PM last week with some solicitations for advice.


Thanks to the board for all the great contributions. Hopefully I'll get some before & after pics once this gets put together!


----------



## CougarCruiser

8350 is on order as of this morning....


the man-cava-makeover begins!


Paint, new electronics, and a 106 w/ the 8350 frm 14 feet out should be quite spectacular.


Anyone know if there's an advantage to mounting the projector closer than 14? I can do 13, or back it up to 15 if needed. 14 is kind of the location sweetspot for my room.


The lense will be within 3 inches to center of the screen, and will be a straight shot from the top of the screen. So, a little lense shift down, and lense shift over, and I'll be good to go!


----------



## mike 01hawk

MilfHunter, er I mean CougarCruiser...


My pics of shooting ~120 @ 14'10" are above your post. Post 1351: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1351 


Closer is always better. I'd get that projector as close to the screen as you can go.


----------



## CougarCruiser

From using the calculator here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...o.htm&add=5910 


It seems that 14'2 is the recommended sweet spot. I could go as close in as 10'4''.


I mean, I could go closer. I have 8 foot ceilings. However, I'd like to go no closer than 13 if possible.


Are there clear advantages to going much closer? Will I really notice anything going closer?



My room will have some ambient light issues unless I put in some blackout shades... and even still, I don't like pitch black. I want some low-light. We have can lightint - so lamps/sconce light issues won't be an issue. I can control the cans via dimmer.


----------



## HDeRaNgE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19491384
> 
> 
> MilfHunter, er I mean CougarCruiser...
> 
> 
> My pics of shooting ~120 @ 14'10" are above your post. Post 1351:
> 
> 
> Closer is always better. I'd get that projector as close to the screen as you can go.



Don't forget that using the zoom to its threshold significantly reduces lumen output as well as affecting the sharpness of the image. I'd stick with the sweet spot.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19473637
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I notice I can't use the full screen function in hte menu setup. Can't remember exactly where in the menu. But I know some of you know what I am talking about, I hope. Somewhere in the setup menu. There is an option to choose fall screen. But is not high lighted and can't be select full. Anyone know why that is? I am currently using HDMI for connection. Thanks to all that could give feedback on this.



I have the same issue.. cannot do full screen.. need help here.. thanks.


the projector is connected to a pioneer vsx 1120 receiver..


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDeRaNgE* /forum/post/19491622
> 
> 
> Don't forget that using the zoom to its threshold *significantly* reduces lumen output as well as affecting the sharpness of the image. I'd stick with the sweet spot.



You'll have to qualify that statement with some hard data. Just like Seating-to-screen width ratios related to lower resolutions and poor uniformity, that stuff about light attenuation at max Zoom/short throw was something tied to older PJs with inferior Lenses. I often use the shortest throw possible while maintaining the last 10% of distance in the Focal length and never do I detect any attenuation.


Of course if anyone would mount a PJ where they had nada zooming left for even minute adjustments, that would show either desperation or a severe lack of knowledge. To paint one's self into such a corner almost always results in back-tracking over what you've done.


----------



## mike 01hawk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDeRaNgE* /forum/post/19491622
> 
> 
> Don't forget that using the zoom to its threshold significantly reduces lumen output as well as affecting the sharpness of the image. I'd stick with the sweet spot.




So you're saying for a 120 inch example:


14'0" throw, brightness 16fl, zoom 1.77x

Is better than

11'9" throw, brightness 23fl, zoom 2.11x


???


If so, that makes no sense to me.


-edit. MM, of course I would mount in probably the 12 foot range so I could have some 'wiggle' room


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CougarCruiser* /forum/post/19491541
> 
> 
> From using the calculator here:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...o.htm&add=5910
> 
> 
> It seems that 14'2 is the recommended sweet spot. I could go as close in as 10'4''.
> 
> .



Lots of people make the mistake of considering the "centered" location on the Throw Chart as being "Sweet". It's not....they just start you in the middle of the available throw range.


In EVERY instance, if you shorten the throw....lumens (Foot Lamberts off the screen) rise.


In defense of HDeRaNgE's former statement about loss of light, while that is not true, at the absolute shortest throw, sometimes one can see a distorted image at the edges (Barreling) with some of the less expensive Lenses on low budget PJs.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* /forum/post/19491780
> 
> 
> 
> -edit. MM, of course I would mount in probably the 12 foot range so I could have some 'wiggle' room



Well then...."wiggle 'dat thing", Brother!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reye* /forum/post/19473637
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I notice I can't use the full screen function in hte menu setup. Can't remember exactly where in the menu. But I know some of you know what I am talking about, I hope. Somewhere in the setup menu. There is an option to choose fall screen. But is not high lighted and can't be select full. Anyone know why that is? I am currently using HDMI for connection. Thanks to all that could give feedback on this.



Take a look at the Note on page 27.

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf 


.


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by WithAlligators
> 
> Wow, finally put the PS3 to this thing and some BRs and running in its native resolution, it's just fantastic. Still seem to have some slight convergence issues and now theres a slight red blob in the bottom right that shows up in blacks. I'm going to call ol' Epson this week about it. Other than that, why would someone spend 3k plus on a 60 inch flat panel? This is bonkers. And I'm just projecting onto a spare unfinished piece of sheetrock. I'm thinking of building a (150"+) silverfire screen for my father to convince him to buy a PJ as well and to have something to project onto when I go to his house. As I'll only be around for a year in this apt, this unfinished sheetrock is great. And free.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, talk about timing of an issue.
> 
> 
> I noticed the red blob or very faint red haze when the right lower corner is totally black lastnight. I can sort of also see in the upper left corner when it's totally black.
> 
> 
> I then decide to look closer at the screen and when I have the Pattern screen up, which is blue, the left side edge has a green horizontal strip about 1/8 of an inch at the very edge and the right side has a dark blue/purplish strip.
> 
> If you have your screen over scanned on to the velvet(off screen) you may not see this.
> 
> 
> *I also noticed this on my Panasonic blu-ray player start up screen, which is also blue.
> 
> 
> I'm taking mine back for an exchange and hope that this is not a common issue that requires Epson to investigate.
Click to expand...


I'm having a similar issue on a completely black screen I noticed a red haze bottom right and top left. It's fairly light but you can tell it's a different color. The issue is not visible during regular full color image. Seems like this is becoming a relatively common issue on this PJ


I'm wondering if I should take the PJ back or not.


----------



## Greg Matty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greg Matty* /forum/post/19480860
> 
> 
> Would anyone hazard a guess as to how much an improvement this PJ would be over a Sanyo Z4? I am particulary interested in better black levels. Also, is the lens shift worth leaving on? With my Z4 I have it turned off and in Cinema mode I believe for the best contrats. Picture is okay if a little dark and less than stellar blacks.
> 
> 
> It is time to upgrade and this Epson looks like a nice unit.
> 
> 
> Greg



Lame post. I meant to say is the auto iris worth leaving on . . .


Greg


----------



## Bill Marsh

Thanks 42 plasmaman for posting the manual----my 8350 will be here in 2 days and it's nice to read up on it first.


----------



## SkaterVideoGuy

Hi All,


Well, after much study, I finally went out and blew my $$ today, and got the Epson 8350 for my early Birthday Gift. Got it set up, and it fits nicely on my customized TriPod mount where I had my HD30, and WOW !!!! WHAT A PIC it throws. !!!


I'm using a Gray Wolf II, 106" screen, at about 13' seating distance.


I'm currently using the Normal Econ Mode, and have the Brightness turned down some.


I thought my Optoma HD30 was nice, but this unit is REALLY NICE. I must agree with all the other positive comments on this thread. An excellent upgrade. I also picked up a Panasonic BD player - so that should be fun too.


I'll try some tweaking later, after I rearange my Home Theater Room a bit. I really like the much greater placement flexability this unit has.


In any event, I highly recommend this unit for those who are interested in such a projector.


Harold


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19492624
> 
> 
> I'm having a similar issue on a completely black screen I noticed a red haze bottom right and top left. It's fairly light but you can tell it's a different color. The issue is not visible during regular full color image. Seems like this is becoming a relatively common issue on this PJ
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if I should take the PJ back or not.



I'm starting to wonder if this is a defect on the 8350 model/line.

I've gone through 3 now and they all have this red haze in the lower right and upper left corner. This is from 3 projectors from 3 different stores.

To see it, those sections need to be black.

I've found that if you watch a movie with black bars on top/bottom, you will see it during dark scenes in the lower right/upper left in the black bar sections.


The red haze isn't bad but once you notice it, it's easier to tell it's there.


----------



## masterren

Just wanted to post my results on the official 8350 thread:


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greg Matty* /forum/post/19492752
> 
> 
> Lame post. I meant to say is the auto iris worth leaving on . . .
> 
> 
> Greg



I've gone back and forth with the auto iris off/on and the black level is better with it on. You'll also notice that black bars on the top/bottom are actually black with the iris on whereas with it off, they are sort of washed out black.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masterren* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my results on the official 8350 thread:



Nice setup, what software is that on the screen that is showing the movie selections?


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masterren* /forum/post/19493489
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my results on the official 8350 thread:



Very nice! You may want to do something about those white walls. You'll notice a nice improvement in the picture (specifically perceived contrast) if you go dark on the walls and especially the ceiling.


----------



## Rudmeister

Ok Guys here goes. I have had a home theater since 1999 using a elite pro-710hd tv that I bought to watch the 1st HD superbowl. It has served me well but it's time for an upgrade. From everything I have read(including this entire thread) I have decided to go with the 8350. I just have a few questions.


1. Since I cannot find any dealers in my area displaying any front projectors I will take your word that the PQ is as good as a 60in plasma. Is it?


2. What is the best screen size and option? I was thinking 110 or 120 inches and grey. It must be either a pull-down or motorized. Do I need gain and if so how much?


3. Speaker placement. I have Def Tech pro-1000 system and not sure about center channel. I know some screens allow for sound to pass-thru. Does PQ suffer for this feature and how much more will it add to the price of the screen?


4. Best placement for projector?


Now about the room. 11.5 ft wide x 18.5 ft deep and 8.5 ft high. Seating is at 2 levels with the first level against the back wall and the 2nd 7 feet closer and 8 inches lower. The room is not closed off and has a open doorway on the right side leading into a small hall and then a kitchen,on the left are 2 double sets of windows which are treated with both blinds and heavy velvet curtains which completely block out lite.(except when the wife complains about how dark it is). There is also a window at the front of the room that has been blocked by the existing tv which is on a raised platform and completely framed in red velvet curtain. The walls are a light maroon an the bottom half and a soft yellow on top. The ceiling is a sort of dirty white. The room will be painted soon with colors to be determined. The floor is currently carpeted a Maroon color but that will change soon also to most likely a dark blue. I will ceiling mount this and I can pretty much put it anywhere. All lighting in the entire house is on dimmers. This would be used primarily for HD TV programs, Blu-Ray and DVD movies all going thru a HTPC.


Budget for screen and projector is $2500 max.


Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> I'm starting to wonder if this is a defect on the 8350 model/line.
> 
> I've gone through 3 now and they all have this red haze in the lower right and upper left corner. This is from 3 projectors from 3 different stores.
> 
> To see it, those sections need to be black.
> 
> I've found that if you watch a movie with black bars on top/bottom, you will see it during dark scenes in the lower right/upper left in the black bar sections.
> 
> 
> The red haze isn't bad but once you notice it, it's easier to tell it's there.



Wow that's interesting, 3 PJ with the same issue. At this point I'm less prone to take it back as it's likely to be a general issue of this projectors. To be honest during movies I never notice it. Yesterday I was watching Avatar at 1080p (which looked amazing by the way) and even in the space scene at the beginning it was not noticeable. But on a completely black screen you can totally tell the difference in color.


I'll do some more testing tonight on more dark movies and playing with the auto iris.


I was wondering if the screen could be enhancing the issue? What kind of screen are you using?

I'm on a DIY RS-MaxxMudd LL.


Did anyone else notice this issue on their projector?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19493957
> 
> 
> Wow that's interesting, 3 PJ with the same issue. At this point I'm less prone to take it back as it's likely to be a general issue of this projectors. To be honest during movies I never notice it. Yesterday I was watching Avatar at 1080p (which looked amazing by the way) and even in the space scene at the beginning it was not noticeable. But on a completely black screen you can totally tell the difference in color.
> 
> 
> I'll do some more testing tonight on more dark movies and playing with the auto iris.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if the screen could be enhancing the issue? What kind of screen are you using?
> 
> I'm on a DIY RS-MaxxMudd LL.
> 
> 
> Did anyone else notice this issue on their projector?



DIY screen with a ~1.3 gain.

As for the red haze, it's not very pronounced but once you notice it, it's not hard to see.


----------



## masterren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dolphinc* /forum/post/19493728
> 
> 
> Nice setup, what software is that on the screen that is showing the movie selections?



Thanks. It's a WDTV Live with WDLXTV firmware. I used Dribblers_NeatSheet_RedCurtain_WALL as the template in ThumbGen.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19493775
> 
> 
> Very nice! You may want to do something about those white walls. You'll notice a nice improvement in the picture (specifically perceived contrast) if you go dark on the walls and especially the ceiling.



Yeah, I've been thinking about that but don't want to jump into it just yet since there is too much left to do in the rest of the house. Future project!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19489695
> 
> 
> I suggest you interact with us on here BEFORE you make any final decision on mounting/screen size. There is a lot of prior experience to avail yourself of and it should be "availed of" if at all possible to assure you of the best possible results and the least possible issues.
> 
> 
> Keep these things in mind.
> Place the PJ as close to the screen as possible.
> The further you place the PJ away, the more your Lens shift will provide horizontal movement.
> The larger your image, the more "shift" movement will be available if the distance is also factored in.



Thanks a lot for the offer of help. I've been reading these forums like crazy for about 2 months and I think I know what's what. In any case, I will "avail of" away when the time comes. The choice of screen is what's the big issue now. I've decided on buying one from Eastporters.com. It's going to be 120", retractable and probably a 1.1 gain grey screen.

They also have matte white 1.2 gain screens ($360) and now a tab-tensioned one as well ($700). Would you strongly recommend the tab tensioned type? It's my first screen/projector. I'm not looking to spend a lot, and don't mind replacing in 5 years. I'm wondering whether to get the regular one now and replace later, possibly a retractable silver 3D one in a few years.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19494056
> 
> 
> They also have matte white 1.2 gain screens ($360) and now a tab-tensioned one as well ($700). Would you strongly recommend the tab tensioned type? It's my first screen/projector. I'm not looking to spend a lot, and don't mind replacing in 5 years. I'm wondering whether to get the regular one now and replace later, possibly a retractable silver 3D one in a few years.



The benefit of going with a tensioned screen is no waves/wrinkles.

Some people can deal with waves and some non-tensioned screen have no waves but those are rare.

Waves usually become noticeable in bright screens or if they're in the area of focus of the scene in the movie.


----------



## WithAlligators

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Zanna* 
Wow that's interesting, 3 PJ with the same issue. At this point I'm less prone to take it back as it's likely to be a general issue of this projectors. To be honest during movies I never notice it. Yesterday I was watching Avatar at 1080p (which looked amazing by the way) and even in the space scene at the beginning it was not noticeable. But on a completely black screen you can totally tell the difference in color.


I'll do some more testing tonight on more dark movies and playing with the auto iris.


I was wondering if the screen could be enhancing the issue? What kind of screen are you using?

I'm on a DIY RS-MaxxMudd LL.


Did anyone else notice this issue on their projector?
I'm on an unfinished piece of sheetrock(!). I imagine it would be worse with something a little more reflective. I guess I can deal with the red haze, although I won't like it, but I AM going to keep returning them until I get one with good convergence. As it is now, anything black on white has ghost colors around it, most noticeably a few pixels of blue above it.


Also, Is it worth buying an HDMI splitter to send seperate signals from a PS3to a sony str-dg910 (HDMI 1.2) for audio and one directly to the projector to preserve video quality? Is x.v.color anything I should care about? Anyone?

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## eliwankenobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* 
Also, Is it worth buying an HDMI splitter to send seperate signals from a PS3to a sony str-dg910 (HDMI 1.2) for audio and one directly to the projector to preserve video quality? Is x.v.color anything I should care about? Anyone?

Cheers,

Alex
Not really for movies, the x.v. color is for extended color gamut and there are no movies mastered with that yet (that I know off). Maybe a ps3 game here and there, but I haven't seen one yet that says in the manual that it uses the extended color gamut. I would tell you to save your cash!


----------



## theirishgonzo

do you think this pj the 8350 will be a good upgrade to my benq8700 my major problem is eather i crush my black detail ir my blacks are greayed out. the 1 place around me has a real bad return polocy for returning anything tv.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *theirishgonzo* 
do you think this pj the 8350 will be a good upgrade to my benq8700 my major problem is eather i crush my black detail ir my blacks are greayed out. the 1 place around me has a real bad return polocy for returning anything tv.
It would be a significant upgrade over the 8700. Very significant.


----------



## GreyTheater

Anybody else having the "red haze" issue. I have one on order and this worries me a bit. this will be my first projector and want everything to be right.


----------



## redline65

I know it's not apples to apples, but how does the picture quality of this projector compare to a 65" Panasonic plasma, for example? Will it depend a lot on the amount of light in the room and the type of screen? I need something for my game room which has 3 windows and 2 openings to the rest of the house. Can't really do much for light control, but it doesn't get any direct sun on the windows except in the morning. Seating distance would be ~11 ft. and I'd most likely have to mount the projector on the back wall, ~14 ft. throw.


----------



## kkongoo

I just finished building my theater. I have seymour wall to wall 2:35:1 screen. I am ready to pull a trigger on projector but having decision issue.


My screen dimensions

Diagonal is 139"

Height is 54"

Length is 128"


Projector will setup about 16ft away from the screen.


I called projector people and was told that Epson will not project fillup my whole screen. The salesperson is recommending Panasonic because 2:35:1 feature and zoom capability to cover the whole screen.

I don't really want to pay $1900's for Panasonic. Please someone confirm this and provide any recommendations.


----------



## MississippiMan

Well....as far as the 2.35:1 issues, they are correct. But only to this extent. The Panny has a feature that automatically shifts the image and adjusts the Zoom so that when you change content formats from 16:9 to 2.35:1 or vice-versa, the "Height" part of the image does not change, only the "Width".


This means no getting onto a chair or step to manually adjust the image parameters.


However the Epson can provide exactly the same images....you just have to provide the labor necessary to obtain a properly formatted and framed image.


If more than 75% of your viewed content is to be Wide Screen presentations off DVDs, then you probably can get along quite nicely. Any more than that being viewed in 16:9 and you'll be up and down the step so often you'll think your in an Aerobics class.


BTW, BOTH PJs, and specifically speaking the Panny 4000, do not eliminate the "Bars", either Top/Bottom or Sides when you adjust them out to fill the maximum screen size you have. In 16:9 mode most employ side curtains that only have to pull in as far as the side edges of the image...for Masking purposes. In 2.35:1 there will be "Overspill" but both do a great job of projecting that "overspill light" as a very dark Gray...almost Black as far as the Epson goes when the Auto Iris is engaged.


So in truth, Both PJs can do the same thing...only one...the Panny can do it automatically. But also, only "IF" it is positioned properly (ie: The Lens must be level with the top of the screen area.) The Epson is a MUCH brighter PJ...and quite frankly very well suited for use with a AT screen, a type of screen that is known to attenuate incoming light due to light lost through the weave/perforations.


Get the Epson.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redline65* /forum/post/19496110
> 
> 
> I know it's not apples to apples, but how does the picture quality of this projector compare to a 65" Panasonic plasma, for example? Will it depend a lot on the amount of light in the room and the type of screen? I need something for my game room which has 3 windows and 2 openings to the rest of the house. Can't really do much for light control, but it doesn't get any direct sun on the windows except in the morning. Seating distance would be ~11 ft. and I'd most likely have to mount the projector on the back wall, ~14 ft. throw.



Well if you can settle for moving up to a teeny weeny 98" diagonal screen (85 x 48) @ 14' you'll get 18 ft Ls. w/a 1.0 gain surface. That's very acceptable under most conditions....save high ambient light.


If you pare the 3850 with a Screen that has just an increase to 1.3, BAM! 24 Ft Ls. That's really what you need to compare to a Direct view Display.


But the real choice should also contain specific ambient light "watch-ability" that will still maintain a image quality you'll be happy with. In a Mfg Screen that would mean a Black Diamond v1.4 or Stewart FireHawk. Both those screens cost more than the Projector...unfortunately.


There are DIY Screen applications that can get the job done. You'll find 'em over on the DIY Screen Forum. You can also get a inexpensive Fixed or Retractable Screen and coat it with a high gain/high contrast paint solution.


Basically, if you want "Plasma/LCD" like performance in a room where much of the time there will be light present to some degree, you have to go that extra mile to make sure you have balanced existing light to Projector output to Screen reflectivity and color shade....and lastly....the room's own reflectivity quotient.


It's not at all as hard as it sounds...nor does it have to be expensive at all. But there are things that MUST be considered necessary to accept & do.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreyTheater* /forum/post/19495582
> 
> 
> Anybody else having the "red haze" issue. I have one on order and this worries me a bit. this will be my first projector and want everything to be right.




I've personally installed 9 so far (...from PP and VA stocks...) and none have shown that trait. But I'll revisit at least 3-4 soon and report back if any manifest such. No news will be considered Good news...leastwise as far as those specific owners are concerned...







For me too!


----------



## msbklipsch

just got the 8350 last weekend

on a table for now with a 92" Draper Luma matt white screen

looks GREAT, better than i expected

will have to try the Auto Iris, right now it is off

would have included some pics but could not figure out how (yet)


----------



## darylkariniemi

Just an FYI -


Projector People dropped price yesterday to $1,199 with free S/H. Plenty in stock when I ordered today... Everybody else seems to be at 1299 for the moment


----------



## tyee

Dropped into my local high end shop and tried to take a look at the 8350. They don't sell the low end they said, so I took a look at the one they had mounted, a 9500 model. Well, I was really surprised at the picture. It was ok but I was not impressed at all. I have an NEC LT150 DLP from many years ago and the color quality is way better than this Epson. He switched from THX (faces had a green tinge to them) to another higher brightness mode and that was even worse for color quality (washed out color). This was with a fairly small screen too, about 6-7ft diagonal I'd say.


Please tell me the newer models are much better than the 9500 model. I'm so disappointed that I will visit another dealer soon and hopefully their setup is a lot better.


----------



## AVS66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darylkariniemi* /forum/post/19497581
> 
> 
> Just an FYI -
> 
> 
> Projector People dropped price yesterday to $1,199 with free S/H. Plenty in stock when I ordered today... Everybody else seems to be at 1299 for the moment



They have been that price since forever.


----------



## WithAlligators

MissMan: It took about 5 or 6 hours of use on the PJ before I noticed the red haze. I am at a good amount of downwards lens shift though. I first noticed it watching my friend play Metal Gear Solid 4 on PS3. The game seems to run slightly postage stamped and in the letterboxed corner, it became pretty noticable. I also see it in 2.35:1 movies in the letterboxing now. The first time I saw it is when it was at it's most pronounced, and after a power cycling it was much less so. Of course that was a few days later, and it simply could have been me focusing on it at the time. Although slightly distracting, it is much less so then say, the geometry and convergence problems on my HD crt, which I find hard to ignore.

PS, can't wait to paint a screen. Thanks in advance for all your contributions to the DIY section. When the time comes, I'll be sure to ask a TON of questions.


----------



## GreyTheater

MississippiMan, thanks for the reply. Need some advice on projector placement. I have a 7'2" ceiling and the room is 20' long. I'm getting a 106" screen. How far back is the optimal placement for the projector? My seating area is roughly 14' from the screen wall.


I'm worried if I put the projector too close it will be a distraction while watching movies.


Any advice is appreciated.


----------



## WithAlligators




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19495090
> 
> 
> Not really for movies, the x.v. color is for extended color gamut and there are no movies mastered with that yet (that I know off). Maybe a ps3 game here and there, but I haven't seen one yet that says in the manual that it uses the extended color gamut. I would tell you to save your cash!



= like 75 bucks saved. Thanks! What then, is the point of 1.3a and 1.3b? DTS audio and such?

I have to say, I think HDMI is pretty stupid. This yearly updating of the "be all end all" of digital cables is really dumb. While its kind of nice that you can get connectivity between old and new devices because the ports are the same, everything else is lame. Firewire could have been so much better. But Hollywood says no. Imagine you had spent 1 million dollars putting together a setup with WireWorld cables, only to find you didn't have a 3d channel 2 years later? OK, done now.

Not having an LCD or Plasma, how does the x.v.color option manifest on said TVs? On the PJ it appears below Cinema as a Lamp/Color option.


----------



## Torqdog

I have a quick question........ it seems I remember reading somewhere that this projector utilizes inorganic filters or panels and that they are supposed to last longer and be less subject to premature breakdown. Now, I can't seem to find any reference to such. Could I have possibly been looking at a different projector? I've been looking at so many lately that it's all becomming a blur.


----------



## georgeorwell

It's mentioned several places, including this thread, but here's another:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...0&entry_id=349


----------



## fingersmac

Quick question. Just received my 8350 today from Eastporters. I'm kind of concerned because it was sent via Canada Post (not even double boxed). The box has a couple of dings but everything inside seems undamaged. Are these things fairly sturdy?


----------



## fjcruiser

Looks like this is going to be my projector if I can get the answer I'm looking for. I have a 92" screen and my projector will be about 12-13 ft. away. Will I be able to have that small of an image from that distance with this projector or would it be too far from the screen? /crosses fingers


----------



## jeancocteau

I've had the projector for almost a month now, and the picture is great, but I'm having an issue where, when streaming movies to my PS3, it flashes bars of white noise every once in a while... and sometimes it goes offline completely.


On a related note, when I try to go through an HDMI splitter, the picture gets red splotches and when I try to run an HDMI cable longer than 10 feet, it won't see the signal at all.


When I received the projector, the box was all beaten up, but Visual Apex told me not to worry about it. Now, I'm worried about it.


----------



## Ilya




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreyTheater* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody else having the "red haze" issue.



I am seeing it on mine.









It is especially noticeable when watching movies and programs that are not 16:9.

First I thought the problem was caused by my off-center position of the projector. But I did some experiments and I can't get rid of the red tint in the bottom-right and upper-left corners no matter how I shift the lens or by adjusting the zoom.


----------



## tyee

Quote:

I have to say, I think HDMI is pretty stupid. This yearly updating of the "be all end all" of digital cables is really dumb. While its kind of nice that you can get connectivity between old and new devices because the ports are the same, everything else is lame. Firewire could have been so much better. But Hollywood says no. Imagine you had spent 1 million dollars putting together a setup with WireWorld cables, only to find you didn't have a 3d channel 2 years later? OK, done now.
Yeah, why don't they use single mode glass fiber optic cables like I use in the telecom industry. I bet they couldn't fill that bandwidth in 20 years, and they're so cheap. A few bucks for tons of bandwidth. Oh, I guess someone would touch the ends and get dirt on it and ask why it doesn't work.


----------



## masterren

Quote:

Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* 
= like 75 bucks saved. Thanks! What then, is the point of 1.3a and 1.3b? DTS audio and such?

I have to say, I think HDMI is pretty stupid. This yearly updating of the "be all end all" of digital cables is really dumb. While its kind of nice that you can get connectivity between old and new devices because the ports are the same, everything else is lame. Firewire could have been so much better. But Hollywood says no. Imagine you had spent 1 million dollars putting together a setup with WireWorld cables, only to find you didn't have a 3d channel 2 years later? OK, done now.

Not having an LCD or Plasma, how does the x.v.color option manifest on said TVs? On the PJ it appears below Cinema as a Lamp/Color option.
All the different letterings of HDMI 1.3 are essentially the same. You can see more about it on Wikipedia .


----------



## Ilya

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*
I'm starting to wonder if this is a defect on the 8350 model/line.

I've gone through 3 now and they all have this red haze in the lower right and upper left corner. This is from 3 projectors from 3 different stores.

To see it, those sections need to be black.

I've found that if you watch a movie with black bars on top/bottom, you will see it during dark scenes in the lower right/upper left in the black bar sections.


The red haze isn't bad but once you notice it, it's easier to tell it's there.
So I guess I shouldn't waste time exchanging mine. Sounds like this is a common issue. Will have to live with it.

This and some minor convergence problems - are the main issues I noticed so far.


By the way, was anyone able to see pluge (blacker than black pattern) with this projector? I am not seeing it on mine.


----------



## jfried

I know closer is better, but my choices throwing to a 96" wide screen were:


1) Ceiling mount 13' from screen

2) High shelf mount 15' 10" from screen


Both options had the PJ lens within a few inches height-wise. I tried them both, and it was difficult to tell any difference between the 3' throw difference. In a blind test I'm pretty sure I could not have told the difference.


Since option 2 had a much higher Wife Acceptance Factor, I'm doing 2.


Now, the disaster. After the test, I dropped the projector a bit over 7 feet from the temporary shelf to the carpeted floor. It did not survive. Amazingly, it lights up, but the LCD assembly is totally out of whack.


Epson is sending out a replacement, and they'll let me know how much my huge, sickening mistake will damage the credit card I gave them. Of course, I had no moral choice other than telling the truth. I'm sure I could have dented the shipping box, broken the foam, and claimed shipping damage, and the PJ damage would have been consistent with that. Every time I watched a movie, though, I would have become sick to my stomach for the lie. I'll just take my lumps, and be able to watch in peace. The replacement is a refurb, but I've got no problem with that.


John F


----------



## WithAlligators

oooooo, that's a stinger. I commend your moral fortitude, but man does it make the pj go out of budget range.


----------



## expertmech

HELP.... OK, I had a bright idea.. We're sheetrocking this week and my basement ceiling is low at 82''... So to save height I framed a box to mount my projector mount inside and basically have the projector mounted near flush.....


Question is.. What will that do to my image? How far from the ceiling will my ingae top have to be? Will it work at all or just reflect off the ceiling.


I am planning on going with dark colors on walls / ceiling and light is controlled....


I can still add some wood and bring mhy mount down a few inches.


----------



## WithAlligators

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tyee* 
Yeah, why don't they use single mode glass fiber optic cables like I use in the telecom industry. I bet they couldn't fill that bandwidth in 20 years, and they're so cheap. A few bucks for tons of bandwidth. Oh, I guess someone would touch the ends and get dirt on it and ask why it doesn't work.
Or Firewire? Or make HDMI daisy chainable? Or make the ports such that the plugs don't simply fall out? Thank goodness for Monoprice, at least they make updating cables easy. They have a great deal right now on single mode glass fiber optic cables right now, which I'm going to replace my HDMI setup with.


----------



## mhdiab

In regards to the dropped PJ call your insurance company and ask what your policy would cover and if it would be bad for your "rating". Often special allowance for issues like you describe and if you dint like what they tell you don't make the claim


For flush mounting pj to ceiling - one concern is heat did you allow ventilation on the side of the pj that has vents?


----------



## jfried

Quote:

Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* 
oooooo, that's a stinger. I commend your moral fortitude, but man does it make the pj go out of budget range.
Yes, true, but a person has to fess up to their mistakes, take responsibility, and move on. All of you honest folks wind up paying a little bit more for your toys to make up for the dishonesty of others.


I hate reading the occasional post where someone returns a camera, tv, etc. after using it for a special occasion, with no intention of actually buying it. Or, others who claim shipping damage for damage that was their fault. Or, or, or. I know you've all seen posts like that, and they make me sick. As a shareholder of some of these tech companies, I just can't take consumer fraud.


Ok, climbing down off the soap box now... I'll not mention it again.


John F


----------



## Fox422

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GreyTheater* 
Anybody else having the "red haze" issue.
Anyone can take a picture ? I'd like to see if it's real bad... In my theater when watching a 2.35:1 ratio, I'm masking the black bars on my 16/9 screen. So I might be able to forget in but if when watching Star Wars on a space sequence, it's like a saber forgotten and turned on... It might bother me...


----------



## expertmech

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mhdiab* 
For flush mounting pj to ceiling - one concern is heat did you allow ventilation on the side of the pj that has vents?


The projector itself is not blocked on the sides, front or back... Only the mount is set into the ceiling. The projector at this point will be at about 1/2'' below the ceiling.


The front of the lens is about 12' from the wall... Will the height effect the size of my screen?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19499506
> 
> 
> Anyone can take a picture ? I'd like to see if it's real bad... In my theater when watching a 2.35:1 ratio, I'm masking the black bars on my 16/9 screen. So I might be able to forget in but if when watching Star Wars on a space sequence, it's like a saber forgotten and turned on... It might bother me...



I'll try to take a picture later this week or weekend. It might be hard to capture but I'll try.

The best I can describe the red haze is like some one has a faint infrared light on about a 1ft sq area in the lower right and upper left corners on my 117" screen.

It's not bright or prominent but noticable once you've seen it.


----------



## stretchsje

To those who have asked about noise-


The auto-iris of mine is rather loud. Anybody else's audible? The fan noise is higher than the Panasonic ax-200u I replaced, so I'm not thrilled with that either. It's ignorable but audible. The iris, however, is heard over the fan noise and is quite distracting.


Picture quality is fantastic, though.


----------



## Greg Matty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19493515
> 
> 
> I've gone back and forth with the auto iris off/on and the black level is better with it on. You'll also notice that black bars on the top/bottom are actually black with the iris on whereas with it off, they are sort of washed out black.



Thanks.


If I leave the dynamic iris active on my Z4 it is really annoying to watch. The opening credits in a Star Wars go from the standard yellow-orange to yellow to green and the star field goes from gray to black and back. I can also hear the iris opening and closing.


Any idea how much better the modern iris on the Epson is compared to an older PJ like my Z4?


Greg


----------



## Amino

Hi Guys,


I have been waiting for a projector like this for a long time (this will be my first). I was hoping to find a sale or some kind of deal on this, but I guess its pretty good value already. I Think I will order from projector people or visual apex for $1200 with the free dust cover... I'm not sure if I can wait for the free ground shipping though.


I am going to europe (mostly in england) for a couple of months and will be bringing this with me (I know its a big machine...). Does anyone know if there are any problems running this pj in other countries? I am hoping it has a universal powersupply... and HDMI is HDMI...right?


Also, I was thinking of buying a flight case to transport this -- has anyone used one in the past with this or another similar sized projector? Any tips for taking this on a plane? it looks a bit too big to take as carry on.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amino* /forum/post/19500164
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for a projector like this for a long time (this will be my first). I was hoping to find a sale or some kind of deal on this, but I guess its pretty good value already. I Think I will order from projector people or visual apex for $1200 with the free dust cover... I'm not sure if I can wait for the free ground shipping though.
> 
> 
> I am going to europe (mostly in england) for a couple of months and will be bringing this with me (I know its a big machine...). Does anyone know if there are any problems running this pj in other countries? I am hoping it has a universal powersupply... and HDMI is HDMI...right?
> 
> 
> Also, I was thinking of buying a flight case to transport this -- has anyone used one in the past with this or another similar sized projector? Any tips for taking this on a plane? it looks a bit too big to take as carry on.



I was surprised, but the 8350 does cater for 110 & 240v supplies (manual http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf - page 66) - you just need either a (cheap and readily available) US-UK plug adapter, or use a UK power lead (the projector end of the lead is universal).


The projector handles NTSC, PAL & SECAM, so that won't be an issue either.


Not sure about some of your other questions!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19499490
> 
> 
> Yes, true, but a person has to fess up to their mistakes, take responsibility, and move on. All of you honest folks wind up paying a little bit more for your toys to make up for the dishonesty of others.
> 
> 
> I hate reading the occasional post where someone returns a camera, tv, etc. after using it for a special occasion, with no intention of actually buying it. Or, others who claim shipping damage for damage that was their fault. Or, or, or. I know you've all seen posts like that, and they make me sick. As a shareholder of some of these tech companies, I just can't take consumer fraud.
> 
> 
> Ok, climbing down off the soap box now... I'll not mention it again.
> 
> 
> John F



Good for you. Your morals may cost you more now, but you've probably been paid back twice over in the quality of people that choose to associate with you.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amino* /forum/post/19500164
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for a projector like this for a long time (this will be my first). I was hoping to find a sale or some kind of deal on this, but I guess its pretty good value already. I Think I will order from projector people or visual apex for $1200 with the free dust cover... I'm not sure if I can wait for the free ground shipping though.
> 
> 
> I am going to europe (mostly in england) for a couple of months and will be bringing this with me (I know its a big machine...). Does anyone know if there are any problems running this pj in other countries? I am hoping it has a universal powersupply... and HDMI is HDMI...right?
> 
> 
> Also, I was thinking of buying a flight case to transport this -- has anyone used one in the past with this or another similar sized projector? Any tips for taking this on a plane? it looks a bit too big to take as carry on.



Some comments:

If there's no universal power supply, you'll need a transformer, of course. (Moot point as it seems it does do both voltages)

Make sure the projector accepts a 1080p 50Hz signal if you'll be in the UK.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19500328
> 
> 
> Some comments:
> 
> If there's no universal power supply, you'll need a transformer, of course. (Moot point as it seems it does do both voltages)
> 
> Make sure the projector accepts a 1080p 50Hz signal if you'll be in the UK.



No external transformer needed - the internal power supply automatically handles both voltages (and frequencies) - you just need the appropriate physical connection.


----------



## AirAl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fjcruiser* /forum/post/19498477
> 
> 
> Looks like this is going to be my projector if I can get the answer I'm looking for. I have a 92" screen and my projector will be about 12-13 ft. away. Will I be able to have that small of an image from that distance with this projector or would it be too far from the screen? /crosses fingers



My screen is 91" wide (width, not diagonal) and my room is 13' deep and my new 8350 fills the screen perfectly. The front of the projector is probably about 11.5' from the screen. Go to projectorcentral.com, find the 8350 projector calculator, and confirm it for yourself though.


----------



## WithAlligators




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19499490
> 
> 
> Yes, true, but a person has to fess up to their mistakes, take responsibility, and move on. All of you honest folks wind up paying a little bit more for your toys to make up for the dishonesty of others.
> 
> 
> I hate reading the occasional post where someone returns a camera, tv, etc. after using it for a special occasion, with no intention of actually buying it. Or, others who claim shipping damage for damage that was their fault. Or, or, or. I know you've all seen posts like that, and they make me sick. As a shareholder of some of these tech companies, I just can't take consumer fraud.
> 
> 
> Ok, climbing down off the soap box now... I'll not mention it again.
> 
> 
> John F



Agreed. What I meant by my rather ambiguous sentence was how much it sucks to budget for something auxiliary (such as a projector) and then have some unforseen and unplanned event drive that cost through the roof. I got a great deal on this pj (965) but on the way home, got a tremendous ticket for driving without current registration (totally my fault, but I simply just didn't know / wasn't cogniscent of the fact). So much so, that had I known I was to be paying that much, I simply could have stayed home and shelled out for a 8700ub online. It's just lamentable, is all. But to dwell on it would be the real mistake, rather than to laugh about it, and move on.


----------



## Lindros88

I accidentally moved the lens down when I was removing the lens cover. Is the lens even supposed to move like that? I'm afraid I've damaged my projector.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/19500444
> 
> 
> Agreed. What I meant by my rather ambiguous sentence was how much it sucks to budget for something auxiliary (such as a projector) and then have some unforseen and unplanned event drive that cost through the roof. I got a great deal on this pj (965) but on the way home, got a tremendous ticket for driving without current registration (totally my fault, but I simply just didn't know / wasn't cogniscent of the fact). So much so, that had I known I was to be paying that much, I simply could have stayed home and shelled out for a 8700ub online. It's just lamentable, is all. But to dwell on it would be the real mistake, rather than to laugh about it, and move on.



Your ticket was like $1000??


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> Anyone can take a picture ? I'd like to see if it's real bad... In my theater when watching a 2.35:1 ratio, I'm masking the black bars on my 16/9 screen. So I might be able to forget in but if when watching Star Wars on a space sequence, it's like a saber forgotten and turned on... It might bother me...



No it's not very noticeable. Yesterday I watched Aliens and I didn't notice it in the movie even in the space scenes. Only in one scene was visible but just because I was really looking for it.


Here is a screen shot. I gave it a couple nudge up in brightness in photoshop just to make it move visible.


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fingersmac* /forum/post/19498385
> 
> 
> Quick question. Just received my 8350 today from Eastporters. I'm kind of concerned because it was sent via Canada Post (not even double boxed). The box has a couple of dings but everything inside seems undamaged. Are these things fairly sturdy?



Mine received the same way from Eastporters a month ago. No problems....


----------



## WithAlligators




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19500534
> 
> 
> Your ticket was like $1000??



including the tow and insurance hike, yup.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19498626
> 
> 
> I've had the projector for almost a month now, and the picture is great, but I'm having an issue where, when streaming movies to my PS3, it flashes bars of white noise every once in a while... and sometimes it goes offline completely.
> 
> 
> On a related note, when I try to go through an HDMI splitter, the picture gets red splotches and when I try to run an HDMI cable longer than 10 feet, it won't see the signal at all.
> 
> 
> When I received the projector, the box was all beaten up, but Visual Apex told me not to worry about it. Now, I'm worried about it.



Are those old hdmi cables? Try setting your PS3 to 1080i or 720p and see if the your splitter and netflix issue goes away. If it does then your cables are not rated HDMI 1.3. This is because your cable can't handle the bandwidth of a 1080p signal. You can good quality cables from monoprice.com for very good prices.


----------



## Bacchus

Anybody expecting these to get any cheaper in the next month?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bacchus* /forum/post/19500998
> 
> 
> Anybody expecting these to get any cheaper in the next month?




Next week's Black Friday Sale at PP is you best bet until next year. It's a popular PJ so there is no real reason for much more of a price drop that has recently come about.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19500923
> 
> 
> Are those old hdmi cables? Try setting your PS3 to 1080i or 720p and see if the your splitter and netflix issue goes away. If it does then your cables are not rated HDMI 1.3. This is because your cable can't handle the bandwidth of a 1080p signal. You can good quality cables from monoprice.com for very good prices.



Better Cables at better prices at :

http://www.compatiblecable.com/shop-...mi-cables.html 


Call and ask for Bill. Tell him MMan sent you. He'll hook ya up at 1$ ft for v1.4 Round or "FLAT" HDMI cables. Best price anywhere!


Imagine getting a v1.4 HDMI that's 35' for $35.00? Nowhere else, Bud!


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19500695
> 
> 
> No it's not very noticeable. Yesterday I watched Aliens and I didn't notice it in the movie even in the space scenes. Only in one scene was visible but just because I was really looking for it.
> 
> 
> Here is a screen shot. I gave it a couple nudge up in brightness in photoshop just to make it move visible.



OK I see. In almost every Theater I go (not home theater...), there is an emergency exit light near the screen reflecting on a lower corner. I hate that ! Most og the time those light are two sided. Can't they not just put some duct tape on the side facing the screen ???


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19500500
> 
> 
> I accidentally moved the lens down when I was removing the lens cover. Is the lens even supposed to move like that? I'm afraid I've damaged my projector.



I have done the same. Won't hurt the projector as it is a mechanical linkage. I wouldn't do it on a regular basis, but you should be OK.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stretchsje* /forum/post/19500002
> 
> 
> To those who have asked about noise-
> 
> 
> The auto-iris of mine is rather loud. Anybody else's audible? The fan noise is higher than the Panasonic ax-200u I replaced, so I'm not thrilled with that either. It's ignorable but audible. The iris, however, is heard over the fan noise and is quite distracting.
> 
> 
> Picture quality is fantastic, though.



I'd get an exchange.

On 3 8350's I have gone through in the last 3 weeks, the iris has been dead silent(fast mode).


The fan does seem to be a little noisy during very quiet passages in a movie but the cadence/hum of the 8350 is more soothing/tolerable than my previous projector that sounded like a jet getting ready to take off.

I can't hear the fan at all during normal dialog or action in a movie.


*I do use Normal mode as well, not ECO. ECO does bring down the fan noise but the picture contrast and brightness goes down as well.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19500695
> 
> 
> No it's not very noticeable. Yesterday I watched Aliens and I didn't notice it in the movie even in the space scenes. Only in one scene was visible but just because I was really looking for it.
> 
> 
> Here is a screen shot. I gave it a couple nudge up in brightness in photoshop just to make it move visible.



Thanks for getting that picture.

That's exactly what I see on my current 8350.

The first 8350 I had was actually worse than what you captured.

The 2nd and 3rd(I currently have) 8350 are like the picture.


As you can tell by looking at the picture, you really won't notice it unless you hone in on the lower right corner at the right time as well as the upper left corner.


----------



## kjr39

Planning on pulling the trigger on one of these soon and pairing it with a 100" Elite Cinetension 2. I'll be sitting about 10 6" from the screen and that looks to be about the correct size for this. Anyone have any comments about that size/distance?


I'll be using it for 75/25 gaming/movies.


----------



## jeancocteau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19500923
> 
> 
> Are those old hdmi cables? Try setting your PS3 to 1080i or 720p and see if the your splitter and netflix issue goes away. If it does then your cables are not rated HDMI 1.3. This is because your cable can't handle the bandwidth of a 1080p signal. You can good quality cables from monoprice.com for very good prices.



I am using cables from monoprice. I've never had problems with the cables before this... running into my LCDTV with a 25ft cable has gone smoothly up until now... and I've also tried shorter runs... A lot of what I'm doing is playing DIVX movies, so could it be strange framerates causing the white bands? That shouldn't effect it, but I don't get the issues when I play a game on the XBOX.


The splitter is kind of a cheaper one, so that may be why the red glitches show up, even though it's never given me a problem on my TV.


Thanks for your help. I'm kind of at a loss.


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19501330
> 
> 
> I have done the same. Won't hurt the projector as it is a mechanical linkage. I wouldn't do it on a regular basis, but you should be OK.



Thanks.


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19501627
> 
> 
> I'd get an exchange.
> 
> On 3 8350's I have gone through in the last 3 weeks, the iris has been dead silent(fast mode).
> 
> 
> The fan does seem to be a little noisy during very quiet passages in a movie but the cadence/hum of the 8350 is more soothing/tolerable than my previous projector that sounded like a jet getting ready to take off.
> 
> I can't hear the fan at all during normal dialog or action in a movie.
> 
> 
> *I do use Normal mode as well, not ECO. ECO does bring down the fan noise but the picture contrast and brightness goes down as well.



You're not supposed to be able to hear the iris? Mine is set to high speed and I hear it a lot when there are changes in brightness in the picture. This isn't normal?


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19500308
> 
> 
> Good for you. Your morals may cost you more now, but you've probably been paid back twice over in the quality of people that choose to associate with you.



Well, not only that, I just heard from Epson. They have shipped out a replacement PJ overnight at no cost, I just return the broken one. I am stunned, I can't believe it and won't believe it until the deal is done.


Maybe a karma thing, I'd like to think so. Or, just a fantastic company.


Epson has my business for life. I can't believe it.


John F


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19502680
> 
> 
> You're not supposed to be able to hear the iris? Mine is set to high speed and I hear it a lot when there are changes in brightness in the picture. This isn't normal?



My projector sits about 8 feet away above my head and I hear no mechanical sounds coming from the projector. Just the fan noise during silent passages.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19501302
> 
> 
> OK I see. In almost every Theater I go (not home theater...), there is an emergency exit light near the screen reflecting on a lower corner. I hate that ! Most og the time those light are two sided. Can't they not just put some duct tape on the side facing the screen ???



Maybe the "red corner blob" people are seeing is a feature - Epson's attempt to give their users the "real theatre experience".


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19502850
> 
> 
> Well, not only that, I just heard from Epson. They have shipped out a replacement PJ overnight at no cost, I just return the broken one. I am stunned, I can't believe it and won't believe it until the deal is done.
> 
> 
> Maybe a karma thing, I'd like to think so. Or, just a fantastic company.
> 
> 
> Epson has my business for life. I can't believe it.
> 
> 
> John F



Congrats to you and Epson, both. I just picked up my 8350. Now let's hope I don't drop it. I'm about to do a project onto the wall to see if anything was damaged during shipping experiment.


----------



## vegashomes

With all the returns I expect a bunch of refurbished units to be sold soon.


----------



## DrewK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19501627
> 
> 
> I'd get an exchange.
> 
> On 3 8350's I have gone through in the last 3 weeks, the iris has been dead silent(fast mode).
> 
> 
> The fan does seem to be a little noisy during very quiet passages in a movie but the cadence/hum of the 8350 is more soothing/tolerable than my previous projector that sounded like a jet getting ready to take off.
> 
> I can't hear the fan at all during normal dialog or action in a movie.
> 
> 
> *I do use Normal mode as well, not ECO. ECO does bring down the fan noise but the picture contrast and brightness goes down as well.



I have my auto iris set to normal and I can hear it quite a bit. My 8350 is mounted directly above the sitting area though, so I'm sure that doesn't help. I may just turn it off. I see a difference but not really much of an improvement with it on.


----------



## lin000

It stopped after 5 hrs and the red temp bulb flashes. I don't know if it's normal. Just shut it down for a few minutes and it's working fine.


----------



## lin000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVS66* /forum/post/19497748
> 
> 
> They have been that price since forever.



and i got my 100 back from them the first day the price dropped.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrewK* /forum/post/19504910
> 
> 
> I have my auto iris set to normal and I can hear it quite a bit. My 8350 is mounted directly above the sitting area though, so I'm sure that doesn't help. I may just turn it off. I see a difference but not really much of an improvement with it on.



The black levels seem to better with the iris on.

You can really tell when the iris is off and the black bars on top/bottom will look washed out instead of black.


----------



## BlueRibbon

Got my 8350 today. Everything seems good except the fan noise started annoying me. The PJ is mounted 7' high on the back wall on an Omnimount shelf. When I sit 5' in front of it, it really gets on my nerve. Different people might have different tolerance of noises, so let me ask this, how far away can you hear the fan noise in a quiet room? I can clearly hear it from the farthest spot of the room, 30' away.


It is better in ECO mode, but only in ECO/Natural. Anything other than Natural the fan cranks up.


----------



## fitbrit

As instructed by Cleveland Plasma, I opened my 8350 immediately and projected onto a wall to make sure all was well. Superficially it looked amazing on my media room's grey wall. The desktop background of my HTPC was stunningly reproduced. However, as soon as I played some video there were a lot of "sparkly" artifacts displayed. I'm not sure why as these don't appear on my 1080p 61" LED DLP, even up close. I hope this doesn't happen when I actually mount the projector in the basement theatre. That might be a month from now.


Even more puzzling:


The projector wasn't double boxed and arrived from Ohio, as is to be expected from a company called Cleveland Plasma. However, a previous shipping label was on the box from Epson to... HH Gregg in Indianapolis! I'm a bit perplexed and wondering whether I got a new unit, or one that had been returned... perhaps because of the artifacts I saw.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19505883
> 
> 
> As instructed by Cleveland Plasma, I opened my 8350 immediately and projected onto a wall to make sure all was well. Superficially it looked amazing on my media room's grey wall. The desktop background of my HTPC was stunningly reproduced. However, as soon as I played some video there were a lot of "sparkly" artifacts displayed. I'm not sure why as these don't appear on my 1080p 61" LED DLP, even up close. I hope this doesn't happen when I actually mount the projector in the basement theatre. That might be a month from now.
> 
> 
> Even more puzzling:
> 
> 
> The projector wasn't double boxed and arrived from Ohio, as is to be expected from a company called Cleveland Plasma. However, a previous shipping label was on the box from Epson to... HH Gregg in Indianapolis! I'm a bit perplexed and wondering whether I got a new unit, or one that had been returned... perhaps because of the artifacts I saw.



I would check another source (known good DVD / BlueRay play) before placing blame anywhere. Sounds to me like it could the interface from your HTPC not playing well with the pj. I've had issues with my HTPC like this to the point where I've simply gone to Apple TV 2, which works well with both my pj's.


----------



## Bacchus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19505883
> 
> 
> As instructed by Cleveland Plasma, I opened my 8350 immediately and projected onto a wall to make sure all was well. Superficially it looked amazing on my media room's grey wall. The desktop background of my HTPC was stunningly reproduced. However, as soon as I played some video there were a lot of "sparkly" artifacts displayed. I'm not sure why as these don't appear on my 1080p 61" LED DLP, even up close. I hope this doesn't happen when I actually mount the projector in the basement theatre. That might be a month from now.
> 
> 
> Even more puzzling:
> 
> 
> The projector wasn't double boxed and arrived from Ohio, as is to be expected from a company called Cleveland Plasma. However, a previous shipping label was on the box from Epson to... HH Gregg in Indianapolis! I'm a bit perplexed and wondering whether I got a new unit, or one that had been returned... perhaps because of the artifacts I saw.



That's just not right. You got a projector that had been sent to HHGRegg? Not right at all. I would send back. Cleveland Plasma posts here a lot. Maybe they can explain. That's pretty shady.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19505903
> 
> 
> I would check another source (known good DVD / BlueRay play) before placing blame anywhere. Sounds to me like it could the interface from your HTPC not playing well with the pj. I've had issues with my HTPC like this to the point where I've simply gone to Apple TV 2, which works well with both my pj's.



No blame being apportioned currently. It was a quick and dirty test, using an HDMI coupler, with the projector in the couch. That's why I'm going to wait until I set it up with the final components before judging. However, tomorrow I may hook up to a standalone BluRay player to be sure.


----------



## nobuyersremorse

I just realized I am able to switch my living room set-up to where I will end up with a 11' viewing distance and a 16' throw In a high ambient light living room. I will be using a hp screen. I would like to ensure a fair pic during the day for football but would like to go as large as possible. How big can I go? Please help I have read like crazy.....


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bacchus* /forum/post/19505979
> 
> 
> That's just not right. You got a projector that had been sent to HHGRegg? Not right at all. I would send back. Cleveland Plasma posts here a lot. Maybe they can explain. That's pretty shady.



There may be a good explanation, so I don't want to point the finger... but it did get me wondering. $1175 shipped is a great price (now risen to $1200), and as long as the item works 100% and has the right, valid warranty, I think I'm cool with its history. There was no red blob that I could see, at least.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19500534
> 
> 
> Your ticket was like $1000??





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/19500827
> 
> 
> including the tow and insurance hike, yup.



man I love my PJ, so I don't know about you, but if it were me I'd probably still feel it was worth it!


----------



## RacerX135

I have it set up with a 16' throw and 8.5ft viewing distance


I use a 110" screen. Forget what kind but it is White. Da-Lite I think. I set up my home theater 8yrs ago with an xv-z9000 so the Epson 8350 is an upgrade to replace the 9000.


I never thought I would be replacing my 10K projector with an 1200.00 one so I was a little nervous about it but it is leaps and bounds better and not just because of 1080p.


From setup to the awesome Bright picture. Even in eco mode and cinema color the screen is still very bright and handles ambient light like a champ.


----------



## luebster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19501116
> 
> 
> Next week's Black Friday Sale at PP



Please elaborate


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zanna* /forum/post/19500695
> 
> 
> No it's not very noticeable. Yesterday I watched Aliens and I didn't notice it in the movie even in the space scenes. Only in one scene was visible but just because I was really looking for it.
> 
> 
> Here is a screen shot. I gave it a couple nudge up in brightness in photoshop just to make it move visible.



I've found that the red haze seems to get more prominent the longer the projector is on.

The best way to check for it is most likely at the end of a movie when the credits are rolling since most are all black with text/credits.

The easiest way to look for it is look on the bottom right then scan your eyes across the bottom to the left than back to the right from about 10-12 feet away.

You'll notice the black is not consistent across the bottom and has the reddish haze on the lower right. You can use the same method from top left and scan to the right.


Another method is if you have a digital camera, focus on the black screen without flash as if you are going to take a picture. The view screen seems to pick up the red haze pretty good but I couldn't get it to capture it very well or even as good as the one Zanna captured below.


*You'll most likely will not notice this in normal viewing because your eyes are focused near the middle of the screen. Only when your eyes wonder to the upper left or lower right during dark scenes will you notice this red haze.

Still not sure if I'm going to keep it since this is the 3rd unit with the same exact issue from 3 different stores.


----------



## ChiefJC

Just ordered mine, I passed up a great deal on an HD20( less than 200 hours, $400), I hope it will be worth it.


My Setup is 120" white 1.1 [email protected] 15' throw.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

^^^^ Man, that was a hell of a deal there, I would by the HD20 for $400







Where at ?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19506258
> 
> 
> There may be a good explanation, so I don't want to point the finger... but it did get me wondering. $1175 shipped is a great price (now risen to $1200), and as long as the item works 100% and has the right, valid warranty, I think I'm cool with its history. There was no red blob that I could see, at least.



Yes we honored that last price, even though our price went up a tad. Everything we buy is new, unused, not refurbished unless otherwise noted, and full warranty applies on everything we sell or we would not sell it. All Epson products come from one place, Epson










Projecting an image on the wall is a quick check to make sure the unit was not damaged in transit, nothing more. Projecting an image on a normal wall with normal paint is going to give no sence of what the projector is capable of, including but not limited to manufacturers defects.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19509168
> 
> 
> ^^^^ Man, that was a hell of a deal there, I would by the HD20 for $400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where at ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we honored that last price, even though our price went up a tad. Everything we buy is new, unused, not refurbished unless otherwise noted, and full warranty applies on everything we sell or we would not sell it. All Epson products come from one place, Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projecting an image on the wall is a quick check to make sure the unit was not damaged in transit, nothing more. Projecting an image on a normal wall with normal paint is going to give no sence of what the projector is capable of, including but not limited to manufacturers defects.




Thanks, Chris

Your emailed explaniation cleared everything up and am very happy so far. My only concern about the "wall experiment" was that there were dancing sparkles all over the picture (so not due to wall features), but the pattern wasn't random - it'd follow the outline of a character's hair, for example.

Anyway, this is all moot. I've determined that the projector wasn't damaged in shipping, and that's all I wanted to do. Today, I will try experiments with various other sources and we'll see.

My projector room won't be ready for another month anyway, so a return cycle won't lose me any time if it comes to that.


----------



## Torqdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19509339
> 
> 
> Thanks, Chris
> 
> Your emailed cleared everything up and am very happy so far. My only concern about the "wall experiment" was that there were dancing sparkles all over the picture (so not due to wall features), but the pattern wasn't random - *it'd follow the outline of a character's hair, for example.*Anyway, this is all moot. I've determined that the projector wasn't damaged in shipping, and that's all I wanted to do. Today, I will try experiments with various other sources and we'll see.
> 
> My projector room won't be ready for another month anyway, so a return cycle won't lose me any time if it comes to that.



I had a similar experience with the Queen, "Live in Montreal" bluray. It's the only _disc_ I've seen what you described.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Torqdog* /forum/post/19509371
> 
> 
> I had a similar experience with the Queen, "Live in Montreal" bluray. It's the only _disc_ I've seen what you described.



I saw it with all the videos I tried. Then again, I _live in Montreal_ too, so maybe that's a universal problem!


----------



## ChiefJC

Chris, it was definitely hard to pass up, and if the 8350 didn't exist I would have definitely got it. The hd20 I was going to buy is a friends of mine, he's only had it 6 months. I've seen it in action, and it's quit impressive. Ultimately though I had the cash to spend, and the adjustment capability is real handy. Not to mention the almost 2x contrast ratio.


----------



## Bill Marsh

I could use some help----this is my third projector and my last was a Marantz vp4001


My problem----I'm projecting at 110" in 2.35 at about 14 ft---it is table-mounted so it's not upside down---so far the table-mount has risen to about 48"and it's still not enough to take the bow out of the top of the picture-----convex bow-----still needing a bit of vertical lenshift to fit my screen.


What height do others of you have it sitting without picture distortion?


I'm using a Wilsonart laminate with 1.25 gain approx. and I'm not over-impressed by the blacks yet---about the same as I had before but I haven't finished tweaking yet so that may improve.


The light producing power this has is impressive so don't think I'm complaining---I just want to fix the few issues I have and then I'll be more satisfied with my purchase.


Thanks


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Marsh* /forum/post/19509572
> 
> 
> I could use some help----this is my third projector and my last was a Marantz vp4001
> 
> 
> My problem----I'm projecting at 110" in 2.35 at about 14 ft---it is table-mounted so it's not upside down---so far the table-mount has risen to about 48"and it's still not enough to take the bow out of the top of the picture-----convex bow-----still needing a bit of vertical lenshift to fit my screen.
> 
> 
> What height do others of you have it sitting without picture distortion?
> 
> 
> I'm using a Wilsonart laminate with 1.25 gain approx. and I'm not over-impressed by the blacks yet---about the same as I had before but I haven't finished tweaking yet so that may improve.
> 
> 
> The light producing power this has is impressive so don't think I'm complaining---I just want to fix the few issues I have and then I'll be more satisfied with my purchase.
> 
> 
> Thanks



[Caveat Emptor: I don't actually own this projector, but...]


From what I understand, any image bowing is caused by not having the unit perfectly perpendicular (horizontally and vertically) to the screen. The H & V shift capabilities negate the need for any tombstone-like corrections if the projector is at exactly 90 degrees to the screen plane.


----------



## Bacchus

Pulled the trigger today. Just couldn't resist. Got the bundle package for Visual Apex. I hope it will be here by Monday so I can set it up over the Thanksgiving holiday.


Yeah!


----------



## Bill Marsh

Thanks DGF but I know that it needs tobe aligned----I'm asking for the height of the platform necessary to do this. I have increased the height by about 3 inches and I will check to see if that corrects the bow. Table-top mounting at over 4 feet seems kind of excessive not to mention a little unstable. The closer to the screen the higher the mount I guess.


----------



## jfried

I'm not looking for a red blob, because I might find it. With no source, I see nothing but black - and I'm not going to go searching!


The 8350 is a pure joy to watch, but I'm surprised how capable the tiny featherweight Optoma H-30 that it replaced is considering it is SD, older gen DLP. I've figured out what to do with it:


There are 2 convalescent homes (one long term, one short term rehab) for old(er) folks near my house. I talked to both, and am going in each one every other week to set up the Optoma, a DVD player, a boom box, and have 'movie night'. Both places have a commons area with plenty of couches and chairs, and a suitable white wall to project on. If everyone gets to like it, maybe I'll show a movie every week. I get to supply the movie, so should be fun!


John F


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Marsh* /forum/post/19509774
> 
> 
> Thanks DGF but I know that it needs tobe aligned----I'm asking for the height of the platform necessary to do this. I have increased the height by about 3 inches and I will check to see if that corrects the bow. Table-top mounting at over 4 feet seems kind of excessive not to mention a little unstable. The closer to the screen the higher the mount I guess.



Sorry - I misunderstood what you were asking!


I just assumed that you could/would only get a bowed top if the projector was actually tilted up at the front - otherwise you'd get a straight-edged rectangular image, but it would be too low. This is actually something I now need to consider for my own installation.


If the table is 4' high, I'd love to see the chairs!


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Marsh* /forum/post/19509774
> 
> 
> Thanks DGF but I know that it needs tobe aligned----I'm asking for the height of the platform necessary to do this. I have increased the height by about 3 inches and I will check to see if that corrects the bow. Table-top mounting at over 4 feet seems kind of excessive not to mention a little unstable. The closer to the screen the higher the mount I guess.



Check this LINK out, it will explain what i think is happening to your screen.


Bottom line is though, every inch your below center of projected screen causes a little bit more "bowing effect". Most zoom a little to hide an inch or 2 in the border, if there experiencing this.


Also as the previous poster said make sure your PJ is not tilted to the left or right, or un-level front to back as this would cause a manuel keystone effect.


And make sure your not using any digital keystone either as that will cause the bowing effect as well.


----------



## Bill Marsh

Thanks you guys---basically I have to keep going up----about 54" I'm guessing to get rid of the bowing----I may just shelf mount it to the back wall which is only about a foot farther back. It would be more stable and safe there.


----------



## AnnoyedBuyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19509802
> 
> 
> I'm not looking for a red blob, because I might find it. With no source, I see nothing but black - and I'm not going to go searching!
> 
> 
> The 8350 is a pure joy to watch, but I'm surprised how capable the tiny featherweight Optoma H-30 that it replaced is considering it is SD, older gen DLP. I've figured out what to do with it:
> 
> 
> There are 2 convalescent homes (one long term, one short term rehab) for old(er) folks near my house. I talked to both, and am going in each one every other week to set up the Optoma, a DVD player, a boom box, and have 'movie night'. Both places have a commons area with plenty of couches and chairs, and a suitable white wall to project on. If everyone gets to like it, maybe I'll show a movie every week. I get to supply the movie, so should be fun!
> 
> 
> John F



Wow, what a great idea! That's actually really cool, though I can't help but wonder what you would be screening. I mean, Sex and the City?? Spiderman?? Or Casablanca??? No, seriously, I can't imagine what I would screen old folks. Why not let them vote on it? The facility should get Netflix streaming....


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So you can buy this from this site at 1200? How much is it shipped? I will definitely be buying this if this is true... really on the fence right now between this and the HD20.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* 
So you can buy this from this site at 1200? How much is it shipped?
Best thing to do is contact them to find out.

http://avscience.com/contact-form/ 


.


----------



## jays_on

So I have mine 20 feet from the screen. Am I robbing my eyes of what they could be seeing? The picture is already stunning.


----------



## bmwm5

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jays_on* 
So I have mine 20 feet from the screen. Am I robbing my eyes of what they could be seeing? The picture is already stunning.








Jays_on, my room setup is also going to put the projector about 20' away, and I have a 133" da-lite to project onto. From that distance, are you still getting a really bright picture? Do you find you need more light control because of it?


----------



## fitbrit

Happy to report that I took the 8350 to the basement and tried setting up in many locations. I connected directly to the bluray player (a $48 Vizio) and got blown away. This was projecting onto the wall the retractable screen will cover. We had to cover the recessed TV bay with some brown corrugated cardboard, and the picture on the board was better than that on the very white plastered drywall. I think a grey screen is in order.


I love the picture quality!

*Results*

We used cardboard boxes to "mount" the projector at different locations and heights to see where the limits of lens shift would take us. I'm glad we did this because there's a lot less shift than I imagined from reading projector reviews. I guess it's measured in a fairly counter-intuitive way. In the end we found a spot that would be perfect and designed a custom-made aluminium enclosure/shelf that will be mounted on and between a vertical steel I-beam and a horizontal one in the ceiling. The 8350 will be offset a little (8"-10") from the centreline horizontally and just a few (4-6) inches above the top of the visible screen.

The projector will be about 13' from the 120" screen and seating will be 10 to 15 feet. I can't wait until the room is ready with it's 14 speakers and one or two subs as well, yielding an 11.1 or 11.2 system, with two possible 9.1/9.2 combos active at any given time.

*The bad*

Other than the lens shift being less than I thought it was going to be, especially horizontally where I needed it most, there was little that disappointed. The image was perfect and showed no evidence of the sparkles I'd seen yesterday connected to my HTPC via my Onkyo NR-5007 receiver, the same model the projector is planned to couple with.

The other bad thing is that now I can't wait to finish the room and use this thing! It's going to be incredibly tempting to put the 8350 on a box and watch something before the room's carpeted!


Overall, very impressed, and even more so that I saved $200 over the nearest price that I had access to in Canada. So far, I can heartily recommend Cleveland Plasma for their service, from the presale phonecall to the polite offer of returning the projector when I was unsure of its history. This was also a risky sale for them, with me being in Canada, and they gave me some good advice on how to protect myself and them in case of transit damage.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

This epson is an excellent unit for the price










A word to the wise, when buying gear before one is ready to install:


This is not a bad idea at all because electronics can run out of stock and one can be left without there product of choice. However, nothing worse than getting gear in, leaving it sit a month or so in a perfect box, then using this gear for the first time to find out it was damaged or defective. Always do a quick test, then rebox it no matter where a person buys. Damages can only be reported for so long. Exchanges can only be done for so long. Odds are of course none of these things will happen, less than 3%, but they do happen. We sell some very expensive electronics and we are careful. In 2008 we moved about 2 -- 72" LG plasma per month for about $15K each, now thats some expensive gear to be moving around.


Good luck on the home theater build. Don't forget to start a home theater build thread here >>>> Click Here


----------



## MississippiMan

Guys, my own Thread is now so long I cannot fathom searching it all, so I must ask for this opinion;


While I myself have not done any gaming on the 8350, I have watched quite a few moving images and have seen no noticeable motion artifacts. But as far as the issue concerning "Time Lag" for Game usage, I have no clue.


Can I get a definitive answer as to the performance of the 8350 for serious Game use? Once I know the answer, I can not only resolve my own Customer's question, I can then be ready to help answer other similar requests for the same info on this rapidly growing Thread.


Thanks!


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19511250
> 
> 
> So you can buy this from this site at 1200? How much is it shipped? I will definitely be buying this if this is true... really on the fence right now between this and the HD20.



I was just in the same boat as you, HD20 was on a short list of PJ's i was getting ready to buy. I did a lot of research on here and on various other websites that do full PJ reviews with screen shots and calibration settings etc. After all that I decided on the 8350. (keep in mind i could of got the HD20 for $400) so it made the decision all that much harder.


Not to sway you, but these are the reasons i decided on the 8350 specifically over the HD20. (listed in order of preference for me)


-V/H Lens shift

-Higher contrast reported(visibly noticeable by me in comparable screen shots) And i have seen the HD20 in action.

-It's a little brighter(as long as you stay between 1/4-3/4 zoom.)

-Decent color in its dynamic mode and very bright (~1300 lumen s tested)

-A lot Quieter (with both in brightest mode-epson is 28db Optoma is 35db)


Hope that helps some.


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
Guys, my own Thread is now so long I cannot fathom searching it all, so I must ask for this opinion;


While I myself have not done any gaming on the 8350, I have watched quite a few moving images and have seen no noticeable motion artifacts. But as far as the issue concerning "Time Lag" for Game usage, I have no clue.


Can I get a definitive answer as to the performance of the 8350 for serious Game use? Once I know the answer, I can not only resolve my own Customer's question, I can then be ready to help answer other similar requests for the same info on this rapidly growing Thread.


Thanks!
Several posts, maybe in this thread, have stated that the gaming experience was very good, with no perceptible lag.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fitbrit* 
Several posts, maybe in this thread, have stated that the gaming experience was very good, with no perceptible lag.
Cool Beans. I could not remember anything negatory having been said, but one is always wise to check.


Thank you!


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
Guys, my own Thread is now so long I cannot fathom searching it all, so I must ask for this opinion;


While I myself have not done any gaming on the 8350, I have watched quite a few moving images and have seen no noticeable motion artifacts. But as far as the issue concerning "Time Lag" for Game usage, I have no clue.


Can I get a definitive answer as to the performance of the 8350 for serious Game use? Once I know the answer, I can not only resolve my own Customer's question, I can then be ready to help answer other similar requests for the same info on this rapidly growing Thread.


Thanks!
Here ya go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *krshlstn* 
I just played COD Last night for about 8 hours on my 8350 and have to say I was a little worried about the lag in video games before I bought this also. But let me tell you first hand that there is no need to worry about lag. I usually can easily tell if there is lag like in older TV's and stuff, but there is nothing I notice for lag on this. I am very pleased with that. I made a mode that shuts off all the extra processing stuff like no iris, no super whites, etc. Pretty much so the least amount of processing power goes on for gaming. But once in a while I forget to go to that mode and I play it in my movie watching mode, I haven't ever noticed any lag that way either. So I wouldn't worry about lag on this projector.


Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mikey_Dawg* 
I can confirm that there is not any lag with gaming... I just got my 8350 setup last night (on a wall, screen comes in next week) and play COD for a few hours and was amazed.


First off, the color looked great on my yellow painted wall but the game looked very good and I didnt experience any lag at all. I am used to play on 1080p 46" Sony Bravia and I can honestly say the gaming experience was just a good (well better considering the 120" picture).


Cant wait to get the screen in and check out NCAA 2011, Forza 3, etc... Right out of the box, the 8350 is VERY impressive.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* 
I was just in the same boat as you, HD20 was on a short list of PJ's i was getting ready to buy. I did a lot of research on here and on various other websites that do full PJ reviews with screen shots and calibration settings etc. After all that I decided on the 8350. (keep in mind i could of got the HD20 for $400) so it made the decision all that much harder.


Not to sway you, but these are the reasons i decided on the 8350 specifically over the HD20. (listed in order of preference for me)


-V/H Lens shift

-Higher contrast reported(visibly noticeable by me in comparable screen shots) And i have seen the HD20 in action.

-It's a little brighter(as long as you stay between 1/4-3/4 zoom.)

-Decent color in its dynamic mode and very bright (~1300 lumen s tested)

-A lot Quieter (with both in brightest mode-epson is 28db Optoma is 35db)


Hope that helps some.
It seems like this is just about what everyone is saying, so I'm probably going to go with the 8350. Where did you buy your 8350 and how much did it cost?

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
Here ya go.


One thing about gaming lag is that it definitely can affect FPS, but that's not usually the concern, because you can play through that. Lag usually has a severe impact on music games such as rock band, dj hero, etc. It'll knock the notes off sync, which is why they have the calibration features.


----------



## Buddd99

I'm just got my 8350 this is my first projector and I'm so excited I have questions. I have a dalite cinema contour with protrim 100inch high contrast cinema vision screen that will be delivered next week. My wall is 108 inches high the screen is 54.6 inches high where do I position the screen on the wall. When I mount the projector to the celing how far does it need to hang. Whatever suggestions or advice would be appreciated


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19513253
> 
> 
> It seems like this is just about what everyone is saying, so I'm probably going to go with the 8350. Where did you buy your 8350 and how much did it cost?



The best price i found online was $1199 including shipping(which i didn't buy), I always check out a few brick and mortar places local to me before I buy online, as they usualy are very competive with items like this, that dont move as fast as other more mainstream items, and sometimes either beat or atleast match what i can find online, especially if im buying more than one thing. With that being said Im not sure if i can list specific places on here, or the prices they offered me. shoot me a PM if your interested and I'll send that info to you.


----------



## Greg Matty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19514918
> 
> 
> The best price i found online was $1199 including shipping(which i didn't buy), I always check out a few brick and mortar places local to me before I buy online, as they usualy are very competive with items like this, that dont move as fast as other more mainstream items, and sometimes either beat or atleast match what i can find online, especially if im buying more than one thing. With that being said Im not sure if i can list specific places on here, or the prices they offered me. shoot me a PM if your interested and I'll send that info to you.



According to the retailer I tried to buy from yesterday, Espson has a $100 off special starting at 5:00 p.m. Eastern next Wednesday through the weekend.


I really wanted the PJ for the four day weekend but $100 buys 4 or 5 Blu-Ray titles.


Greg


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Buddd99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just got my 8350 this is my first projector and I'm so excited I have questions. I have a dalite cinema contour with protrim 100inch high contrast cinema vision screen that will be delivered next week. My wall is 108 inches high the screen is 54.6 inches high where do I position the screen on the wall. When I mount the projector to the celing how far does it need to hang. Whatever suggestions or advice would be appreciated



1/3 of the screen should be below eye level


----------



## kdog750

I have cable for HD viewing. However, they do not offer PPV's like the UFC in HD and standard def on a large screen looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions on DirectTV vs. DISH for viewing HD on a 120" screen? Or is the HD quality between cable and satellite all about the same?


----------



## jspursfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have cable for HD viewing. However, they do not offer PPV's like the UFC in HD and standard def on a large screen looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions on DirectTV vs. DISH for viewing HD on a 120" screen? Or is the HD quality between cable and satellite all about the same?



I imagine they're the same, but I've had Dish Network on a 114" screen for 3+ years and it looks great. I'm sure you'll be fine with either.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greg Matty* /forum/post/19515720
> 
> 
> According to the retailer I tried to buy from yesterday, Espson has a $100 off special starting at 5:00 p.m. Eastern next Wednesday through the weekend.
> 
> 
> I really wanted the PJ for the four day weekend but $100 buys 4 or 5 Blu-Ray titles.
> 
> 
> Greg



Which retailer would that be? I'll take 1200 in store, if I can't figure lower deals.


----------



## ChiefJC

If you have an hhgreg near by try there. They usually price match big online vendors, and sometimes are even cheaper. Don't let there sticker price fool you, they will reduce it if you show them a price from an online vendor.


----------



## allen1994

Ordered the 8350 last week and arrived last night. At the moment, I'm using the PC DVI/VGA adapter from the video card to the VGA on the 8350. Picture is razor sharp for 1080p but I'm getting these bluish purple blooming...looks like flashes. The video card resolution is set to 1920x1080. The 8350 is set to Cinema mode with 2.4 Gamma as suggested online with auto iris on normal These bluish flashes are happening on every movies and I'm not sure if it's the projector itself, PJ settings or what. I tried several different settings on the projector but same results. Any suggestions?


----------



## nobuyersremorse

I have high ambient light and will have a throw of 16'. Can I do a 119' HP dalight screen and still have a good pic during the day or will I need a smaller screen to keep the fl level up? I will be seated 11' away. Multiple opinions will be appriciated!!!!!!!


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19512819
> 
> 
> Several posts, maybe in this thread, have stated that the gaming experience was very good, with no perceptible lag.



I'll say this: People have different perceptions of lag. One can say it's perfectly fine for them, but another can say it's unplayable. Although I believe this projector should be acceptable in terms of input lag (probably better than a lot of LCD's), I hope to do actual quantitative tests. However, I won't be able to do these tests until a month or two. (when I know I have the proper funds to purchase this projector)


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kdog750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have cable for HD viewing. However, they do not offer PPV's like the UFC in HD and standard def on a large screen looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions on DirectTV vs. DISH for viewing HD on a 120" screen? Or is the HD quality between cable and satellite all about the same?



If you have an htpc connected to the projector - or any reasonable PC - you can buy a decent pseudo-HD stream from UFC direct. It looked pretty good on a 61" screen from 8 ft.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmwm5* /forum/post/19511474
> 
> 
> Jays_on, my room setup is also going to put the projector about 20' away, and I have a 133" da-lite to project onto. From that distance, are you still getting a really bright picture? Do you find you need more light control because of it?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nobuyersremorse* /forum/post/19517230
> 
> 
> I have high ambient light and will have a throw of 16'. Can I do a 119' HP dalight screen and still have a good pic during the day or will I need a smaller screen to keep the fl level up? I will be seated 11' away. Multiple opinions will be appriciated!!!!!!!



When I first got the pj I set it up right behind my couch which was a 13' throw. Now that I have it on the back wall of my basement (about 20') I really can't say for sure if I see a difference. I Do think I may have lost a little lumens, but not enough to sacrifice aesthetics. The image is still very bright.










We use 'cinema', but my environment is light controlled pretty well. But the 'living room' mode does plenty even with a lot of ambient light. My screen is 106" Projectica from bestbuy. I believe the gain is 1:1. I had a bunch of gift cards







. So *bmwm5*, your 133" may not be as bright at that size? Still, if you have decent light control I think you will be happy with it. *nobuyersremorse*, on living room or dynamic, I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Those modes are extremely bright!


We have been watching Lost on bd, and we find after an episode or 2 we move to 'eco' because its a little TO bright, even on 'cinema'. My only thought is, I wonder how bright the pic will be after a couple thousand hours of use!?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen1994* /forum/post/19517161
> 
> 
> Ordered the 8350 last week and arrived last night. At the moment, I'm using the PC DVI/VGA adapter from the video card to the VGA on the 8350. Picture is razor sharp for 1080p but I'm getting these bluish purple blooming...looks like flashes. The video card resolution is set to 1920x1080. The 8350 is set to Cinema mode with 2.4 Gamma as suggested online with auto iris on normal These bluish flashes are happening on every movies and I'm not sure if it's the projector itself, PJ settings or what. I tried several different settings on the projector but same results. Any suggestions?



Not sure if this will help the blooming (may be from iris) but why not use dvi to hdmi adapter







. Much sharper than vga.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen1994* /forum/post/19517161
> 
> 
> Ordered the 8350 last week and arrived last night. At the moment, I'm using the PC DVI/VGA adapter from the video card to the VGA on the 8350. Picture is razor sharp for 1080p but I'm getting these bluish purple blooming...looks like flashes. The video card resolution is set to 1920x1080. The 8350 is set to Cinema mode with 2.4 Gamma as suggested online with auto iris on normal These bluish flashes are happening on every movies and I'm not sure if it's the projector itself, PJ settings or what. I tried several different settings on the projector but same results. Any suggestions?



Try using a different input on the 8350 and/or source and see if the issue persists.

Also, are you watching copy protected movies(HDCP)?


----------



## allen1994




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19518746
> 
> 
> Try using a different input on the 8350 and/or source and see if the issue persists.
> 
> Also, are you watching copy protected movies(HDCP)?



These are ripped bluray movies. I don't have a dedicated bluray player yet but will get one soon.


----------



## allen1994




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19518719
> 
> 
> Not sure if this will help the blooming (may be from iris) but why not use dvi to hdmi adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Much sharper than vga.



I'll check it out. Thanks.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So has anybody played Rock Band on one of these? Was wondering the latency.


----------



## RTO69

OK, have been reading this for the last 2 weeks and really enjoyed everyone's thoughts. Just sold my old HD70 last night (have to sell the old before I can buy the new, house rules), so pulled the trigger 10 minutes ago..










Went with VA as I have purshased my last 2 projectors from them with great success and no hassle. No HHGreg in my area or that would have been my first choice reading about all the great deals they have been running..


Throw distance will be 15 feet, 120" diagnal screen coming as well. Should be a great set up and can't wait to hook it up and see how large of improvement it provides over my old 720P, HD70..


Will post some shots once I get it hooked up and running...


Thanks to everyone for the advise... My wife thank all of you for getting me into the "new projector" kick... I know some of you know what I mean...


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTO69* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, have been reading this for the last 2 weeks and really enjoyed everyone's thoughts. Just sold my old HD70 last night (have to sell the old before I can buy the new, house rules), so pulled the trigger 10 minutes ago..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went with VA as I have purshased my last 2 projectors from them with great success and no hassle. No HHGreg in my area or that would have been my first choice reading about all the great deals they have been running..
> 
> 
> Throw distance will be 15 feet, 120" diagnal screen coming as well. Should be a great set up and can't wait to hook it up and see how large of improvement it provides over my old 720P, HD70..
> 
> 
> Will post some shots once I get it hooked up and running...
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the advise... My wife thank all of you for getting me into the "new projector" kick... I know some of you know what I mean...



Haha, my wife is the same. But I know once she sees this in action she'll love it.


My setup is similar to yours. 8350, 120" 1.1 gain, ~14 Ft throw. I'm betting well be pleasantly surprised.


----------



## bandler6

Just fired up my new 8350 for the first time (just to make sure it would work, natch) and i have only one word...WOW!! Tested it running HDMI (no sound) on an antique white wall, and I was simply blown away. I only had my FiOS HD DVR connected, but it was still amazing.


Brite-View wireless HDMI showed up today. Still waiting for Onkyo SR608 receiver (from tiger Direct....called to confirm in-stock and asked for a break on 2 day shipping...got it), and in-wall speakers and HDMI cable from MonoPrice.


Still need to install 103" motorized screen from HTDepot, and then I will upload some photos. My room is far from a perfect space, but it definitely suit my needs.


If you have been contemplating getting an Epson 8350, think no more. This thing (from my initial impression) is the joint


----------



## nobuyersremorse

From what I have been able to figure out I will need 50 to 70 fl for a bright pic during the day with high ambient light (football). I am leaning towards the dalite hp which has a gain of 2.8. I will be throwing from 16' to a 120" screen seated 11' away. So to figure out the fl's with the screen I will multiply the fl's I get on a 120" from 16' by 2.8 to get the final number. Is this correct? How close am I?


Edit: To add, the projector central calculator is saying I will be at 39fl. How close to correct is this? Will this give a good daytime/ambient light pic?


----------



## streaker76

Good day,


Looking for some advise on purchasing the Epson 8350 or the Panny 4000. After reading reviews on the Epson I'm leaning more towards this projector but would like to know if anyone has tried this projector on a 2.35:1 screen. Is this going to be a pain in the butt manually changing the zoom on the projector from 16 x 9 to 2.35. With the Panny it's auto. Just wanting to know the benefits between the two. The Epson sounds like it is comparable to the the Panny with nearly a $700 price difference. Please help with some suggestions.


Thanks


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey guys im new to the AVS forum. Ive read almost all 51 pages of this thread but would like a little more help. I currently have a Epson hc720 projector that i bought about 2yrs ago and only have 1000hrs on original bulb cuz i don use it all the time just movie nite and Madden. Its connected to my ps3 projected on white luminescent wall about 135in diagonaly. I read a review about the hc8350 on projector central and projector reviews. I read really good things. Coincidentally I was in B.B the next day and they had one so i became real curious and started reading this thread 2 days ago. So my question is " Is there a big difference between the 2". Ive owned a couple pjs and the hc720 is a killer. Idk if its mine or all but this projector is great and i love it and i feel like it cant be beat. Im fairly new to the projector game. I would really appreciate any and all help before i buy it especially people w same issue. THANKS


----------



## wickedg8gt

As i mentioned im projecting on a white luminescent wall w no border. The projector is 14ft from wall and ceiling mounted. Its about 135in diagonaly and 66in long and 126 wide w zoom all the way out. Im wanting to repaint the screen area for better picture and from what i read Behr Silverscreen seems to be a famous wall paint and bordering it with that black border tape Screen Flok from Screengoo. The room has 1 window but black curtains so no light even in daytime. I take any and all suggestions on whether this is a good or bad idea or any helpful hints and tips.


----------



## MississippiMan

Bad idea. Silverscreen is a "Basic" paint, an Off The Shelf (OTS) gray. While it's ideal for those with no intention of trying for anything exceptional, and will work pretty well with a Beamer like the 8350, it's still falls far short of other more advanced DIY mixes that are not at all hard to create / apply.


If you do want to use it, be certain to mix it using Behr Premium Plus Ultra Interior Flat Enamel, and spray that paint on for best results.


Other considerations can be forthcoming should you be more determined to excel.


For instance, RS-MaxxMudd. It has 1.3 gain compared to SS's 0.9, and contains Poly, Silver & Pearlescent components that improve perceived contrast, enhance Colors without over saturation, and allows for the use of Low lamp (...especially in your instance...) and that helps create/maintain the deepest Black Levels possible without crushing any whites or colors.


No matter what the choice, all you'll need is a light Gray shaded surface. The only variance to that would involve the size screen you have as relates to how close to the Ceiling the top of the screen comes...how close to the side walls the sides come, and what colors/sheen those surfaces are.


If they are really close in, and/or of a light color, then you would need to consider either painting them a different color, or painting the Screen itself in a Formula specifically intended to combat ambient light. Light that is coming off the Screen surface that contacts and rebounds off nearby surfaces is also to be considered "ambient" and often can be the worst culprit as far as washing out Black levels in a room that is otherwise effectively darkened.


Just so as to not wander too far OT on this thread, PM me or visit the DIY Screen Forum *** for exacting details and testimonials.
*** http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=110


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19521920
> 
> 
> Hey guys im new to the AVS forum. Ive read almost all 51 pages of this thread but would like a little more help. I currently have a Epson hc720 projector that i bought about 2yrs ago and only have 1000hrs on original bulb cuz i don use it all the time just movie nite and Madden. Its connected to my ps3 projected on white luminescent wall about 135in diagonaly. I read a review about the hc8350 on projector central and projector reviews. I read really good things. Coincidentally I was in B.B the next day and they had one so i became real curious and started reading this thread 2 days ago. So my question is " Is there a big difference between the 2". Ive owned a couple pjs and the hc720 is a killer. Idk if its mine or all but this projector is great and i love it and i feel like it cant be beat. Im fairly new to the projector game. I would really appreciate any and all help before i buy it especially people w same issue. THANKS



I would suggest setting it up in your house, and you will probably find yourself craigslisting the hc720







. If you are (or know anyone who is) a rewardzone premier silver member at bb, you get an extended return policy of 45 days with no restocking fee and free shipping. You just need to give them the ph # associated with the account. There's also currently a 10-12% off coupon that will work on the pj, making it very competitive with online retailers!


Use this link on your phone;
bestbuy 10-12% off


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19521794
> 
> 
> Good day,
> 
> 
> Looking for some advise on purchasing the Epson 8350 or the Panny 4000. After reading reviews on the Epson I'm leaning more towards this projector but would like to know if anyone has tried this projector on a 2.35:1 screen. Is this going to be a pain in the butt manually changing the zoom on the projector from 16 x 9 to 2.35. With the Panny it's auto. Just wanting to know the benefits between the two. The Epson sounds like it is comparable to the the Panny with nearly a $700 price difference. Please help with some suggestions.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Is that so? I thought that its only a support option if you have anamorphic lense. I didn't know that you can watch on a 2:35 screen with 8350 which is very good news for me... I asked a few times in this thread if someone can post a video how this option works but...


----------



## sgtdejavu

I been lurking for some time on this forum while trying to decide what display I want to go with in my basement theater room. So first off, I would like to thank AVS and the enthusiast who post on this forum.


After looking at Plasmas and LCD/LEDs, trying to convince myself that I would be happy going that route in my theater room, I decided to go with my initial plan of a projector. The TVs I looked at in the stores looked great if playing canned video (BB) but not so great with real TV (HHG). BTW, I have an old Pioneer PRO-910HD Elite in the living room, so I am not biased against plasmas.










Based on the great reviews I read here, I decided to go with the Epson 8350. Being new to the projector hobby, I do have a couple questions that may be better covered in another group but I thought I would start here.


1. Screen type: What type and brand screen to use with this projector?


I have not decided exactly what size I will go with yet, but in general around 83" diagonal. Screen will be fixed-size 16:9 and mounted on the wall. I would like to stay under $1k if possible. Opinions on white vs. gray screens would be appreciated.


Seating distance is 11' and 15'. I have good light control, it is in a basement after all. I will mostly watch movies with minimal light, so I do not want the screen to be too bright. I may occasionally watch TV broadcast and play games so I do not want to be too restricted.


Also, the front row of seats will be eye-level with the bottom of the screen.


2. Projector placement/throw distance?


Not sure of the throw distance I will end up with, but using the calculator on Epson's website, my range is roughly 8'-17''4". I have a lot of flexibility but 9' looks like a good spot which is near the minimum distance. I decided to go toward the minimum for a couple reasons and would like to get opinions.


Pros:

- Minimize someone blocking the projector while playing games on the wii.

- Better picture; seems being closer would be better, is this true?

Cons:

- More lens shift required? Is this effect noticeable ?

- Projector visible by viewer. The ceiling is 8'-4" so it should not be in the way but I would like opinions on doing this. Is it distracting?


THANKS!


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19521794
> 
> 
> Good day,
> 
> 
> Looking for some advise on purchasing the Epson 8350 or the Panny 4000. After reading reviews on the Epson I'm leaning more towards this projector but would like to know if anyone has tried this projector on a 2.35:1 screen. Is this going to be a pain in the butt manually changing the zoom on the projector from 16 x 9 to 2.35. With the Panny it's auto. Just wanting to know the benefits between the two. The Epson sounds like it is comparable to the the Panny with nearly a $700 price difference. Please help with some suggestions.
> 
> 
> Thanks



That's where a lot of that $700 goes. How much of a pain is dependent on where it is mounted and what percentage of material is in 2.35:1.


Generally, I have been saying to stay away from 2.35 screens with the 8350, especially if the projector is ceiling mounted, or if you can afford more screen height to get near equal width.


Face it, the Epson zoom is manual. Messing with it usually messes up the focus and lens shiift a bit, so it takes a minute or so to adjust. If it is ceiling mounted, there you are on a stool while your friends are getting a great shot of your butt. It is going to get old quickly.


However, if you are a great fan of some particular cinemascope movie and watch it all the time, it may be worth the hassle. Personally, I would spend the extra on the Panasonic, or even go to a full anamorphic setup from a projector that supported an anamorphic lens.


A better solution with the 8350 is to go with a 16:9 screen and then go with a masking solution that will put velvet masking borders to get you 2.35. There are several threads her on making manual and electric masking panels. Some are very slick.


----------



## nobuyersremorse

From what I have been able to figure out I will need 50 to 70 fl for a bright pic during the day with high ambient light (football). I am leaning towards the dalite hp which has a gain of 2.8. I will be throwing from 16' to a 120" screen seated 11' away. So to figure out the fl's with the screen I will multiply the fl's I get on a 120" from 16' by 2.8 to get the final number. Is this correct? How close am I?


Edit: To add, the projector central calculator is saying I will be at 39fl. How close to correct is this? Will this give a good daytime/ambient light pic?


----------



## Kilgore

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nobuyersremorse* 
From what I have been able to figure out I will need 50 to 70 fl for a bright pic during the day with high ambient light (football). I am leaning towards the dalite hp which has a gain of 2.8. I will be throwing from 16' to a 120" screen seated 11' away. So to figure out the fl's with the screen I will multiply the fl's I get on a 120" from 16' by 2.8 to get the final number. Is this correct? How close am I?


Edit: To add, the projector central calculator is saying I will be at 39fl. How close to correct is this? Will this give a good daytime/ambient light pic?
I have a Da-lite High Power screen and the earlier Epson 6100. Use the Living Room mode and it's plenty bright for daytime.


----------



## sgtdejavu

HHG has 20% off on this projector this week. I just picked mine up Yippie!


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* /forum/post/19524442
> 
> 
> HHG has 20% off on this projector this week. I just picked mine up Yippie!



Where are you located? I don't have a store near me so I ask my sister to check into it for me. But it seems every time I see this 20% off mentioned and ask her to check it out, the store knows nothing about it.


I want my 20% off, dang it!


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andy238* /forum/post/19525386
> 
> 
> Where are you located? I don't have a store near me so I ask my sister to check into it for me. But it seems every time I see this 20% off mentioned and ask her to check it out, the store knows nothing about it.
> 
> 
> I want my 20% off, dang it!



Cary, NC


----------



## Andy238

Ok, this is too funny. I see the ad on HHG website. BUT... did ya notice the srp? They list it at 1499.99!? Yesterday they had the srp at 1399.00. Isn't the actual msrp 1299.00?


So you're getting 20% off of an inflated HHG msrp that in the end is the actual Epson msrp minus the $100 Epson discount. Basically no discount at all.


Boy, what a scam...


----------



## wickedg8gt

I called my hhgreg in Louisville and they havnt got any in yet but are expecting some withn a week or 2.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Can someone give me some more help to the color i should paint my wall/screen for this projector when i get one which hopefully is soon. And the best border if one at all. Fairly new to all this. But want best picture overall and dont really understand all the different paints people talk about or how to get them.


----------



## knappetak

Currently have an AE700u which has been a complete and total gem of a projector. Have the HD bug for blu-ray after upgrading the homes other TV's and now want to bring that to my dedicated theater room. My fear after looking at the throw ranges and screen size reccomendations I fear the 8350 may overpower my room and would like some feedback from owners of the projector, or just others who are in the know...My current throw distance is about 11' with a seating position of roughly 8'. There is really no other way to configure this room, so those are the dimensions I'm working with. Currently my screen is roughly vert. 53" and 93" wide. Like I said with the AE700U's flexibility I've been in good shape, but worried the 8350 may be too bright? There is no ambient light in this room, it is dedicated home theater room in my basement...Thoughts? Thanks everyone


----------



## garretwp

Even with out the HHGregg 20% sale, you can get it for around 1k. I picked up mine last week for around 1k and my dad bought his on Saturday for the same (actually a few dollars cheaper as he bought a lot off other things). HHGregg will work with the price. Do not let the higher srp fool you. I picked up a few things (Blu-ray and Receiver) on Saturday as well and got them to get it close to their cost. They will match almost any ones price. I.e. even online retailers.


- Garrett


----------



## HDTVChallenged




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andy238* /forum/post/19525417
> 
> 
> Ok, this is too funny. I see the ad on HHG website. BUT... did ya notice the srp? They list it at 1499.99!? Yesterday they had the srp at 1399.00. Isn't the actual msrp 1299.00?
> 
> 
> So you're getting 20% off of an inflated HHG msrp that in the end is the actual Epson msrp minus the $100 Epson discount. Basically no discount at all.
> 
> 
> Boy, what a scam...



$ear$ was pulling the same trick (on other TV/Electronics) last week ... The week before they offered a certain item for $899, the next week it was "10% off from $999!!!" ... LOL ... ya gotta love these creative types.


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVChallenged* /forum/post/19526844
> 
> 
> $ear$ was pulling the same trick (on other TV/Electronics) last week ... The week before they offered a certain item for $899, the next week it was "10% off from $999!!!" ... LOL ... ya gotta love these creative types.



I got it for 20% off of $1299, you do the math...The discounted price was plainly marked on the display unit in the store. It looks like HHG's pricing is local/regional, not national.


----------



## mflanagan

Does anyone know if that $100.00 discount is in the form of a Rebate or are they just knocking 100 dollars of MSRP?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knappetak* /forum/post/19525752
> 
> 
> Currently have an AE700u which has been a complete and total gem of a projector. Have the HD bug for blu-ray after upgrading the homes other TV's and now want to bring that to my dedicated theater room. My fear after looking at the throw ranges and screen size reccomendations I fear the 8350 may overpower my room and would like some feedback from owners of the projector, or just others who are in the know.
> 
> 
> Like I said with the AE700U's flexibility I've been in good shape, but worried the 8350 may be too bright? There is no ambient light in this room, it is dedicated home theater room in my basement...Thoughts? Thanks everyone



Stop worrying! I've installed a bunch of 'em on screens ranging from 82" diagonal up to 135" diagonal in Dedicated Theaters, and there are no issues. That is primarily because when the image is smaller, you can simply go to Low lamp mode. The Bulb will last 4K hours, and your Blacks will go "Interstellar".


I completely vouch for this PJ, via personal experience over a myriad of varying installations. It's my current favorite, and it will take some effort to dispose it from that place.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19525656
> 
> 
> Can someone give me some more help to the color i should paint my wall/screen for this projector when i get one which hopefully is soon. And the best border if one at all. Fairly new to all this. But want best picture overall and dont really understand all the different paints people talk about or how to get them.



Complicated topic. You should ask in the DIY screen forum, where they have this sticky thread dedicated to the topic: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=929997


----------



## Bacchus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19527210
> 
> 
> Stop worrying! I've installed a bunch of 'em on screens ranging from 82" diagonal up to 135" diagonal in Dedicated Theaters, and there are no issues. That is primarily because when the image is smaller, you can simply go to Low lamp mode. The Bulb will last 4K hours, and your Blacks will go "Interstellar".
> 
> 
> I completely vouch for this PJ, via personal experience over a myriad of varying installations. It's my current favorite, and it will take some effort to dispose it from that place.



That's a ringing endorsement from a credible source....I ordered mine last week. Unfortunately, they couldn't process my CC, so now I have to wait until VA opens so I can get them my info so they can get it in the mail! That's okay, I needed a few days to take down all the existing stuff and paint, finish wiring the surround, etc.


----------



## Hagopian

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Vao* 
Is that so? I thought that its only a support option if you have anamorphic lense. I didn't know that you can watch on a 2:35 screen with 8350 which is very good news for me... I asked a few times in this thread if someone can post a video how this option works but...








I can tell you, this was my exact concern as well. I went with the 8350 and I can tell you, if you have good easy access to the projector, to switch between HD content and 2.35 content is very easy.


I simply zoom up, then lens shift up, then over....total of about 10 seconds to do it..then I adjust the focus a tad if need be.


It's really nothing. I can tell you I am thrilled that I didn't pay all that extra money for the panny 4000 with the auto switching feature.


I have been nothing but thrilled about the 8350, it's performance, it-s ease of setup, and its 2.35 functionality.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## Andy238

Quote:

Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* 
I got it for 20% off of $1299, you do the math...The discounted price was plainly marked on the display unit in the store. It looks like HHG's pricing is local/regional, not national.


I hope this is the case in FL. Maybe FL it's the same region as NC. I'll give my sister a call and post what I find out. Thanks for th info and enjoy your pj!


----------



## Vao

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hagopian* 
I can tell you, this was my exact concern as well. I went with the 8350 and I can tell you, if you have good easy access to the projector, to switch between HD content and 2.35 content is very easy.


I simply zoom up, then lens shift up, then over....total of about 10 seconds to do it..then I adjust the focus a tad if need be.


It's really nothing. I can tell you I am thrilled that I didn't pay all that extra money for the panny 4000 with the auto switching feature.


I have been nothing but thrilled about the 8350, it's performance, it-s ease of setup, and its 2.35 functionality.


Thanks,


Jeff
ohh man that was one of most important thing for me! I can't wait to get mine.

The other good thing is that my set up doesn't include ceiling mount so woohoo


thank you for the understandable message!

Alex


----------



## srich083

I just recieved my 8350 and noticed when displaying the "test" pattern that the convergence appears to be slightly off. When looking closley at the white part of the patern you can see a green and blue "shadow" a pixel or so to the left of the white. Is this really a convergence issue or it something else? Should I be concerned about how it affect the over all performance of the projector?


----------



## BlueRibbon

Eventually I couldn't take it any more and called Epson. They shipped a new one to me overnight (great service!). The noise is way better on the new PJ! I turned both of them on with the same settings and there are definitely differences. The new one has a more uniform humming instead of fan noise on the old one. When in ECO mode, the new one is so quiet and becomes almost inaudible. In fact, my blu-ray player (LG-BD570) is louder than the PJ!


However, the new PJ seems not as sharp as the old one, especially in the pattern mode. White dots have some kind of haze around it. I'm not sure how noticeable it will be in real movie viewing experience from 12 feet away.


----------



## BlueRibbon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srich083* /forum/post/19528798
> 
> 
> I just recieved my 8350 and noticed when displaying the "test" pattern that the convergence appears to be slightly off. When looking closley at the white part of the patern you can see a green and blue "shadow" a pixel or so to the left of the white. Is this really a convergence issue or it something else? Should I be concerned about how it affect the over all performance of the projector?



I have the same question. There are definitely differences between individual units based on the experience with 2 8350s I have at the moment. However I'm not sure if it affects "over all performance".


Try different zoom levels (generally it is always better in the middle) to see if it is related to the lenses at all.


----------



## Rudmeister

What would be the optimal distance to mount the projector from the screen for a 120" screen? I don't mean min\\max. I want the sweet spot.


Also do you think 120" is too big? I have 2 rows of seating, 17' and 11'.


If 120" is too big what size would you recommend and what would be the corresponding sweet spot for that size?


It would be for movies and tv only. No gaming. Also must use a motorized or pull-down screen.


Would a matte white 1.3 gain screen be OK?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rudmeister* /forum/post/19530042
> 
> 
> What would be the optimal distance to mount the projector from the screen for a 120" screen? I don't mean min\\max. I want the sweet spot.
> 
> 
> Also do you think 120" is too big? I have 2 rows of seating, 17' and 11'.
> 
> 
> If 120" is too big what size would you recommend and what would be the corresponding sweet spot for that size?
> 
> 
> It would be for movies and tv only. No gaming. Also must use a motorized or pull-down screen.
> 
> 
> Would a matte white 1.3 gain screen be OK?



I bought the 8350 before I got my screen. We marked out a 120" 16:9 screen on the wall and I projected an image to fill this space, from approx 12.5' away. Standing anywhere from 10ft back and further, the image was fantastic. It may be so even closer. I had no trouble taking in the whole screen and it didn't seem too big. I'm getting a retractable 120" screen. Either 1.2 gain tab tensioned, or a 1.1 gain grey.


----------



## Rudmeister

Thanks for the quick reply. The reason I need a retractible screen is there is a window behind the screen so I cannot test it on a wall first.


And the windows are treated so I can control the lite


----------



## Ix

Can anyone tell me the "cold start" time of this projector? How long does it take from hitting power on until it's ready?


----------



## jond76

I just got mine all set up and love the picture upgrade. Replaced an HC720. I like the epson brand.


Question: It shows on the "Info" screen that the output is only 720p... is that normal? It says: Source: hdmi, signal: component.


bluray--->onkyo606--->8350


I have an Onkyo606 rec and have it set to "through" for hdmi. Thoughts?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jond76* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got mine all set up and love the picture upgrade. Replaced an HC720. I like the epson brand.
> 
> 
> Question: It shows on the "Info" screen that the output is only 720p... is that normal? Source: hdmi, signal: component
> 
> 
> I have an Onkyo606 rec and have it set to "through" for hdmi. Thoughts?



What are you watching? HDTV or ps3,or bluray? If HDTV make sure your box is set to the 1080 resolution option, I know on my DirectTV box I have to turn off auto, and just manually set to 1080 or it gets stuck on 720 sometimes.


----------



## ChiefJC

Disreguard, I see you added from bluRay...


----------



## Amino

ok, I finally bought one at BB using the 10% off coupon. It was still overpriced @ $1299 - 10% + tax... but I walked out the door with it. Its sitting in my room now, unopened (not sure how much longer I can wait). I am hoping that bestbuy will include it in a BF sale and that I will be able to get a bit more of a discount (if I don't open the box). I wish I had ordered it from PP or VA but i need it by friday. Anyway, I've read every page of this thread and i wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the information and advice.


----------



## Autobahn1988




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masterren* /forum/post/19493489
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post my results on the official 8350 thread:



masterren, What type of PJ mount is that for your projector?


----------



## masterren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Autobahn1988* /forum/post/19531433
> 
> 
> masterren, What type of PJ mount is that for your projector?



That'd be the following: Peerless ACC 570W, Chief CMS009W, and Chief RPAUW


----------



## wickedg8gt

I just bought HC8350 today from hhgreg for $936. Its on sale for $1036 and i had a $100 off coupon and i tried to hassle them some more but couldn't get anymore off.


----------



## GreyTheater

Got my projector in last night. set it up for a test to make sure everything was ok. I still have to finish the room before I can mount it and the screen.


Has anybody had experience with this pj and a HTPC? I hooked mine up and while the picture was great the audio sync was off. Is there a lag that I need to compensate for? The same HTPC works fine hooked up to my 65" mits TV.


Any Help is appreciated. Oh the picture on a dark blue wall was amazing! I can't wait to get the screen up to see what it will really do.


----------



## JayMan007

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* 
I just bought HC8350 today from hhgreg for $936. Its on sale for $1036 and i had a $100 off coupon and i tried to hassle them some more but couldn't get anymore off.
Where did you get the $100 Off coupon?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreyTheater* /forum/post/19533286
> 
> 
> Has anybody had experience with this pj and a HTPC? I hooked mine up and while the picture was great the audio sync was off. Is there a lag that I need to compensate for? The same HTPC works fine hooked up to my 65" mits TV.



Mine is hooked to an HTPC on which I game, watch tv, blu-ray/HD-DVD and have never had a problem with audio sync. I run audio and video via ati(amd) cards to a sony hdmi avr. Used ati 4670,4850,4870,5770 and they've all been perfect. I've also used with HC8100 and can't say I've had that problem. What is your setup? What were you testing?


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19533290
> 
> 
> Where did you get the $100 Off coupon?



You have to sign up for their HHGold Rewards on the main website.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andy238* /forum/post/19534154
> 
> 
> You have to sign up for their HHGold Rewards on the main website.



ok, I did that...


Is that the coupon that has different amounts depending on how much you spend?


I have one for these

$75 off TV/Video ($700 - $1299)

$100 off TV/Video ($1300 - $1999)

etc.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jond76* /forum/post/19530707
> 
> 
> I just got mine all set up and love the picture upgrade. Replaced an HC720. I like the epson brand.
> 
> 
> Question: It shows on the "Info" screen that the output is only 720p... is that normal? It says: Source: hdmi, signal: component.
> 
> 
> bluray--->onkyo606--->8350
> 
> 
> I have an Onkyo606 rec and have it set to "through" for hdmi. Thoughts?



What are you using for bluray player? Do you have a ps3 or pc to see if they are detecting the pj as 1080p?


----------



## jond76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19534440
> 
> 
> What are you using for bluray player? Do you have a ps3 or pc to see if they are detecting the pj as 1080p?



It's a Sony player. Whats weird is that the projector won't let me select 1080p output on the xbox either. Like I said, it looks great, but its strange that it is saying only 720p


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jond76* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Sony player. Whats weird is that the projector won't let me select 1080p output on the xbox either. Like I said, it looks great, but its strange that it is saying only 720p



It's a long shot, but I've witnessed something similar before. How old is your HDMI cable? And are you sure it's at-least a 1.3 cat2? If it's not...those older cables were only rated at 74.5mhz, (up to 720p/1080i) which would not handle 1080p. Which needs at-least 340 MHz.


Also if a faulty cable, or too long attenuation could be decreasing maximum bandwidth, causing the handshake to only accept the 720p.


Probobly a long shot, but worth a look I guess.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jond76* /forum/post/19534708
> 
> 
> It's a Sony player. Whats weird is that the projector won't let me select 1080p output on the xbox either. Like I said, it looks great, but its strange that it is saying only 720p



are you using hdmi? or component? If hdmi have you tried the other hdmi input? Mine shows 1920x1080 in the info.


----------



## jond76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19534783
> 
> 
> It's a long shot, but I've witnessed something similar before. How old is your HDMI cable? And are you sure it's at-least a 1.3 cat2? If it's not...those older cables were only rated at 74.5mhz, (up to 720p/1080i) which would not handle 1080p. Which needs at-least 340 MHz.
> 
> 
> Also if a faulty cable, or too long attenuation could be decreasing maximum bandwidth, causing the handshake to only accept the 720p.
> 
> 
> Probobly a long shot, but worth a look I guess.



not old, but cheap (hell, maybe old too). This strikes me as a possible culprit. Off to Monoprice I go! Thanks.


----------



## ChiefJC

Anytime







, let me know if that fixes it. If so that will be 2 times I know off that a cheaper cable has messed up 1080p connection.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19532310
> 
> 
> I just bought HC8350 today from hhgreg for $936. Its on sale for $1036 and i had a $100 off coupon and i tried to hassle them some more but couldn't get anymore off.



WOW!!! Now that's a deal! I think they lost money on you!










Looking for something similar myself but no luck thus far. It may be worth the 90 min drive to go to HHGreg.


----------



## Juncti




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19532310
> 
> 
> I just bought HC8350 today from hhgreg for $936. Its on sale for $1036 and i had a $100 off coupon and i tried to hassle them some more but couldn't get anymore off.



Did that sale end? I'm only seeing it at 1300 there.


The front page says 20-30% off most items, but doesn't seem to work on that item.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Juncti* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Did that sale end? I'm only seeing it at 1300 there.
> 
> 
> The front page says 20-30% off most items, but doesn't seem to work on that item.



If your looking online, that could be why your not seeing the deal. You've got to actually go to an hhgreg and get a better price. There online site usually just shows MSRP's or any national promotion going on.


----------



## chuckvb

What is the consensus of the lack of 1080P/24fps for Blu-rays. Does it lead to noticeable judder in the display? I assume it's doing a pull down to get to the 60fps input.


----------



## smitjere

On sale right now at Amazon for $1089.99...it says it won't ship for a bit though.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smitjere* /forum/post/19536909
> 
> 
> On sale right now at Amazon for $1089.99...it says it won't ship for a bit though.



Yes, a bit...


> Quote:
> Usually ships within 1 to 2 months.


----------



## Davinleeds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chuckvb* /forum/post/19536873
> 
> 
> What is the consensus of the lack of 1080P/24fps for Blu-rays. Does it lead to noticeable judder in the display? I assume it's doing a pull down to get to the 60fps input.



HDMI @1080p refresh rate 24/30/50/60 in manual. Has there been a post it won't do these?


----------



## allen1994

Just bought Sony BluRay player from Costco tonight and rented Splice.

Picture looks great but the purple flash still there.

I tried with the Iris Off, Normal and High but still there.

Don't know what else to adjust and I shouldn't have this issue out of the box.

Could it be defective? bought the PJ from Visual Apex. Do I need to call Epson directly to help troubleshoot or Visual Apex?


----------



## Buddd99

I'm now putting up the 8350 my screen is a 100inch the projection calculator throw distance at 10 to 20 feet. I had a custom installer tell me for my screen size that the optimal throw distance for the best picture should be 10 to 11 feet is this true. my plug in is 14 feet away from screen is it going to make a difference between 10 feet or 14 feet?


----------



## RTO69

You know when you have spent a ton of time reading, researching, dreaming of a new gadget in your house, you order it, you watch the tracking and are ready for the package to show up the next day and then.................


It snow's in Seatle for the first time in a lifetime....... UG!!!! So much for paying for 2 day service from VA so you can have your new projector here for Thanksgiving weekend..


I guess mother nature likes to play jokes on us...










So, I get to watch the football games on a 46 inch flat screen instead of a 120 inch ....


Now we wait... maybe this is a blessing, the mount I ordered wouldn't make it here until Friday...


----------



## eliwankenobi

Well well, today I finally bought my 8350!!.
























It wasn't my intention to buy it today....I just stopped at my local Best Buy to check about price and ordering it. I live in Puerto Rico and the rep told me on a previous visit that if it appears on the BB website, they could order it if they don't have it in stock or are not carrying in PR. But to my surprise, when I went there to tell them that it was available online, the rep told me they had them in stock!! And he showed it to me...the price was about $1500!! I told the guy, that's way overpriced! MSRP is $1299 and asked where the hell they came up with that price! After talking to the manager, he checked the price from Epson's website and BB online and told me that he could honor the price if I wanted and immediately said YES! Well, I actually tried to knock off another $100 but he told me that was not possible and told me how the cost of operation in BB PR was a little higher than in US since shipping costs does not apply and costs associated with customs, etc. Taking another $100 was limiting too much their margin blah blah...Anyways I feel satisfied that I was able to buy it locally and if something happens I can happily take to the store and bring home another one! They also don't mind the lamp hrs for returns exchange....that's good to know too. I considered buying online from amazon (and get triple points from my amazon card!), but they don't ship TVs projectors and the like to PR. In the end, even at msrp I feel I made a good deal considering they wanted to charge me $200 more (plus tax)! I feel sorry for the other people who bought it at that price.


After returning home I quickly set it up on top of my previous projector (home made). As you can imagine, the upgrade was dramatic!!! WOW!!!










Now... I'm very proud of my home made DIY 720p pj, it gave an enjoyable experience for a couple years and everyone was very impressed by it. For a long time I certainly was happy. But this is like having a huge plasma or lcd tv (and at a lower price)!!


I'm projecting an 83-85" image on a 106" Draper lumma 1.0 gain from about 8.5ft away on a shelf on top of the other pj. So as you can imagine, its very bright! But not so that it burns my eyes (well maybe on dynamic!) I was blown away when watching some scenes from Bolt, Dark Knight and Wall-E on Blu-ray! With the auto iris off the blacks were better than on my diy pj, but not a lot, maybe because the other one was quite dim in comparison, and therefore the picture was also flat. Dynamic range was nothing like this, color, sharpness, brightness are much much better now! And after enabling the auto-iris the blacks got better still! But like others say, not by much. Im also happy to report that i don't see the auto-iris in action when watching movies.










The picture is evenly lit across the screen. Since the picture is small compared to what usually other users have, I really don't notice any issues with convergence and sharpness, this is a great relief for me as convergence was what had me worried about getting a 3LCD. Oh, and did I say it was bright?!! I actually thought it could be too bright, especially using it at almost max zoom/wide angle where its supposed to be even brighter! But thankfully on eco mode is bright, but not overly so that it hurts. Even my wife, who could not care less about projectors said: "wow, I can really see the difference, compared to the other one"!! Yes, you know if your wife is happy all is good!


So, yes!..I can finally say I am another happy camper.


After I get about 100 hrs, I'll try to calibrate with my DVE disk or try Art's settings, though right now, I don't see any reason to.


Oh, and games are awesome!!! This is an area where my other diy was lacking in performance due mostly to brightness, not lag. Also, although its been said before, lag is no issue for gaming on this Epson!!. I tried with Arkham Assylum and Uncharted 2....You press the button, and the character jumps or shoots, no more to say on the matter.










So in conclusion...a very punchy image at a great price! The best bang for the buck I've had!










Eventually I'll post some pics for your enjoyment.


Thanks!


EDIT: Added some smiles!


----------



## wickedg8gt

The internet price is higher than the actual store price. Inside the store says $1036. I then went online on their website and signed up. And saw that coupon. But to be honest i didnt have the coupon w me. I just told them i signed up and had a $100 off coupon and they took my word for it. So thats how i got it to $936.


----------



## chuckvb

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Davinleeds* 
HDMI @1080p refresh rate 24/30/50/60 in manual. Has there been a post it won't do these?
All I could find on web and specs was 1080P/60. As for 24fps it only matter if the projector can refresh at 120fps. Then the blu-ray player will do a 5 frame repeat of the frame with no 2-3 pull down creating interlaced frames on two out of three frames (Depending on pull down method used). Can you even tell is another question.


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *chuckvb*
All I could find on web and specs was 1080P/60. As for 24fps it only matter if the projector can refresh at 120fps. Then the blu-ray player will do a 5 frame repeat of the frame with no 2-3 pull down creating interlaced frames on two out of three frames (Depending on pull down method used). Can you even tell is another question.


The 8350 supports 2:2 and 2:3 pulldown.

1080p/24 is displayed at 48 fps, also as stated before in the Manuel it lists all the compatible fps. Which is all of them.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So where do we get the 100$ off coupon for this tomorrow? I gotta try and buy this asap.


----------



## wickedg8gt

The $100 dollar coupon is what u get when u sign up for hhgreggs gold membership on their website. I just printed it off. Technically its a coupon with different rebates depending on how much u spend. The $100 dollar off says the srp has to be $1300 or more or $75 off if you spend $1299 or less. Here in Louisville, ky my hhgregg has the sticker $1299 but there sale has it at $1036. So i told them i had a coupon for $100 off that i got for signing up for their membership. They didnt ask any questions and believed me and accepted it. Thats how i got it for $936. The only problem is they didnt have any in so i had to buy one now and when it comes in this week i already have one. The reason i didnt wait for them to get one in is bcuz the sale ends on the 27th and i didnt want to miss out on what i thot was a good deal/price for me.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I really appreciate the help i have received on trying to help me paint my own screen but with my extreme lack of knowledge of paint or painting i have decided to just go with Behr Silverscreen mixed with premium plus ultra interior flat enamel or just the white premuim plus ultra interior flat enamel. Something off the shelf and easy but havnt decided on which is better for all around performance. But i did read on here that mixing the silverscreen with matte polyurethane or a minwax polycrylic satin finish actually gave an all around better picture bcuz it made whites briter. Does anyone know if this is true or should i just stick with the original Silverscren. I want the best al around picture but hasle fre bcuz i do live in an apt also. THANKS for any ADVICE.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* 
I really appreciate the help i have received on trying to help me paint my own screen but with my extreme lack of knowledge of paint or painting i have decided to just go with Behr Silverscreen mixed with premium plus ultra interior flat enamel or just the white premuim plus ultra interior flat enamel. Something off the shelf and easy but havnt decided on which is better for all around performance. But i did read on here that mixing the silverscreen with matte polyurethane or a minwax polycrylic satin finish actually gave an all around better picture bcuz it made whites briter. Does anyone know if this is true or should i just stick with the original Silverscren. I want the best al around picture but hasle fre bcuz i do live in an apt also. THANKS for any ADVICE.
I don't want to delve deeply into DIY Screen painting on this Thread, but as far as the addition of the Poly to SS, you add the Minwax "water based" variety at a 4:1 ratio (ss to poly) since your using the Interior Enamel.


Buy the Premium Plus Ultra. It will go a long ways toward making the rolling easier and less prone toward errors (roller marks)


----------



## GreyTheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19533471
> 
> 
> Mine is hooked to an HTPC on which I game, watch tv, blu-ray/HD-DVD and have never had a problem with audio sync. I run audio and video via ati(amd) cards to a sony hdmi avr. Used ati 4670,4850,4870,5770 and they've all been perfect. I've also used with HC8100 and can't say I've had that problem. What is your setup? What were you testing?



Jays - thanks for the reply. I'm using a 2010 Mac Mini with Plex. I have figured out through the plex forum that the sync issue is with Plex. I ran through some of the fixes last night and everything seems to be working now.


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19534204
> 
> 
> ok, I did that...
> 
> 
> Is that the coupon that has different amounts depending on how much you spend?
> 
> 
> I have one for these
> 
> $75 off TV/Video ($700 - $1299)
> 
> $100 off TV/Video ($1300 - $1999)
> 
> etc.




Yep, that's the one.


----------



## aaaaj3

So I just ordered the 8350 (coming today) to replace my old Sony HS-10. I am very anxious to see how much brighter this projector will be, but now I have a concern. The projector calculator is actually showing a brighter picture on the hs10 than the 8350 even though it has almost twice the lumens. The projector is 18 ft back on a 120" white screen. This for the epson leaves 11 fl's which I am disapointed in I thought it would be a bit higher. Thoughts?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chuckvb* /forum/post/19536873
> 
> 
> What is the consensus of the lack of 1080P/24fps for Blu-rays. Does it lead to noticeable judder in the display? I assume it's doing a pull down to get to the 60fps input.



I play 1080p MKV's and Blu-ray's through my HTCP at 24hz and it looks beautiful and smooth as silk. You can see a CLEAR difference. In 'info' on the pj it shows 23.90hz as well.


When setting the refresh rate on my PC to 24hz I had judder at first. But found that with ati cards you have to force 24/1080p in CCC, which then makes 23hz show up. After selecting 23hz it plays perfectly.


If you aren't utilizing 24hz I strongly recommend experimenting with it. It is a fantastic feature that provides a clear improvement.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I play 1080p MKV's and Blu-ray's through my HTCP at 24hz and it looks beautiful and smooth as silk. You can see a CLEAR difference. In 'info' on the pj it shows 23.90hz as well.
> 
> 
> When setting the refresh rate on my PC to 24hz I had judder at first. But found that with ati cards you have to force 24/1080p in CCC, which then makes 23hz show up. After selecting 23hz it plays perfectly.
> 
> 
> If you aren't utilizing 24hz I strongly recommend experimenting with it. It is a fantastic feature that provides a clear improvement.



Here you go source is bluray player-->Hdmi-->epson 8350. hdmi 1 input. It's definitely using the 24 hz refresh, also to note in the signal screen shot it's utilizing 2-2 pulldown. I can turn that off, but I can definitely see an improvement when when it's activated.


Info menu










Signal menu


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aaaaj3* /forum/post/19539229
> 
> 
> So I just ordered the 8350 (coming today) to replace my old Sony HS-10. I am very anxious to see how much brighter this projector will be, but now I have a concern. The projector calculator is actually showing a brighter picture on the hs10 than the 8350 even though it has almost twice the lumens. The projector is 18 ft back on a 120" white screen. This for the epson leaves 11 fl's which I am disapointed in I thought it would be a bit higher. Thoughts?



Here's a lumen summary from the reviews of these projectors on ProjectorCentral:


HS10:


Dynamic mode with color temperature set on high, Cinema Black off, and the Cinema Filter off = 984 ANSI lumens.

Color temperature control from High to Low = 832.

Cinema Black on, color temperature still set on Low = 700.

Color temperature at Middle = 851.

Cinema Filter, Cinema Black on, color temperature at Middle = 454

Cinema Filter, Cinema Black on, color temperature at Low = 359



8350:


All in high lamp mode. Eco mode drops output 22%


Dynamic preset = 1507 lumens

Living Room preset= 951

Natural and Cinema presets both = 560



Distance is a factor but I don't know what the HS10 reduction % is off hand. The 8350 goes down by 39%.



Hope this helps a little.


Andy


----------



## Rudmeister

I need some screen advice. I am going to get a motorized screen and my options are 103" or 120" for size and matte white 1.3 gain or grey .9 gain for the screen material.


The room is 11.5 ft wide x 18.5 ft deep and 8.5 ft high. Seating is at 2 levels with the first level against the back wall and the 2nd 7 feet closer and 8 inches lower. The room is not closed off and has a open doorway on the right side leading into a small hall and then a kitchen, on the left are 2 double sets of windows which are treated with both blinds and heavy velvet curtains which completely block out lite.(except when the wife complains about how dark it is). There is also a window at the front of the room that has been blocked by the existing tv which is on a raised platform and completely framed in red velvet curtain. The walls are a light beige on the bottom half and a soft yellow on top. The ceiling is a sort of dirty white. The room will be painted soon with colors to be determined. The floor is currently carpeted a Maroon color but that will change soon also to most likely a dark blue. I will ceiling mount this and I can pretty much put it anywhere. All lighting in the entire house is on dimmers. This would be used primarily for HD TV programs, Blu-Ray and DVD movies all going thru a HTPC.


Also what would be the ideal throw distance for your suggested screen size?


----------



## 3Aims

I just picked up the 8350 for $1,099 at PP during their sale today. Crazy price when you consider free shipping and no taxes.


Anyway, I am replacing my trusty 4 year old Z5 which is table mounted. I am going to mount the Epson to the ceiling, but I need some basic guidance:


1. What is the ideal FL and Zoom combination? I'm in a bat cave and use a Carada BW screen. They represent a 1.4 gain but I think it is closer to 1.2.


2. What kind of drop from the ceiling should I install the projector for best results? My ceiling is 12 feet tall.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Aims* /forum/post/19541363
> 
> 
> I just picked up the 8350 for $1,099 at PP during their sale today. Crazy price when you consider free shipping and no taxes.



I pulled the trigger with Projector People as well after weeks of waiting. 1099 with shipping is great.



PP has gotten rave reviews and I am happy to go with an AVS sponsor. I already can tell they will be there to help every step of the way. And this is my first projector and I really need it.



I am so excited!!! I have so much to do before it arrives.


----------



## Rudmeister

I just bought it at BB for $1039, got home and set it up on a tv tray, hooked up the bd player, hung an old sheet and was blown away by the 116" picture. This thing has plenty of lite for just about any situation. In dynamic mode I can turn all the lights up to full and still have a good picture.

Will have to wait a few weeks for the official opening but can't wait.


I still have a 2 questions:


1. Screen material, i have 2 choices white matte and 1.3 gain or grey and .9 gain


2. what is the optimal distance I should mount it from the 120" screen?


----------



## indybrian

Well mine came in about a week ago and has been sitting in the box in the bedroom. Carpet was installed in my theater room today so I thought I would hook it up to see if it works. No sound yet as my speakers are not here, and my Seymour screen material is on the way. I just put the 8350 on an end table hooked up the Ps3 and aimed at a tan wall from about 12'.


All I have to say is WOW!!!


----------



## fjcruiser




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AirAl* /forum/post/19500436
> 
> 
> My screen is 91" wide (width, not diagonal) and my room is 13' deep and my new 8350 fills the screen perfectly. The front of the projector is probably about 11.5' from the screen. Go to projectorcentral.com, find the 8350 projector calculator, and confirm it for yourself though.



Thanks alot, Air. I hadn't heard about that calculator. Heading there now.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rudmeister* /forum/post/19542168
> 
> 
> I just bought it at BB for $1039, got home and set it up on a tv tray, hooked up the bd player, hung an old sheet and was blown away by the 116" picture. This thing has plenty of lite for just about any situation. In dynamic mode I can turn all the lights up to full and still have a good picture.
> 
> Will have to wait a few weeks for the official opening but can't wait.
> 
> 
> I still have a 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Screen material, i have 2 choices white matte and 1.3 gain or grey and .9 gain
> 
> 
> 2. what is the optimal distance I should mount it from the 120" screen?



1. go Gray it will help make your blacks not washed out...

I for one am not a matte white screen fan at all....

2. at least 17- 18 ft is preferred if you cant get that go with a smaller screen..

I have my 113inch at 14 ft...


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey guys i have a question. I have OCD bad and im trying to get the picture to fit perfectly rectangle on my screen but i cant seem too. It seems like a little of the screen is on one edge or the other either top or bottom and the funny thing is i originally bordered it off with a blue projection on the wall and bordered it. So my question is "How do any of you guys get your projector image a perfect rectangle to fit the screen perfectly"? (with no extra slack on one side or another). I also used a small level to make sure its level with lens up and down and the sides are level up and down.


----------



## the-pred

Guys I see people posting prices of $1099 and $1039 from BB and PP, but when I go on there site its still $1299. How are people getting these prices?


----------



## Tigerpaw_87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19542551
> 
> 
> Guys I see people posting prices of $1099 and $1039 from BB and PP, but when I go on there site its still $1299. How are people getting these prices?



On PP's site enter "PARADE" as the coupon code.


----------



## the-pred

Do PP ship to Canada? HAs anyone hd them ship to Canada?


----------



## 3Aims




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19542551
> 
> 
> Guys I see people posting prices of $1099 and $1039 from BB and PP, but when I go on there site its still $1299. How are people getting these prices?



It came up $1,099 on PP's site this afternoon. The BB prices are negotiated in store or with coupons not available to others or whatever. Dumb to post that stuff. I think the PP price is good through today at midnight with PARADE coupon.


EDIT. Just checked PARADE coupon and it works for $1,099. BB buys are dumb to post as it's a one on one negotiation and e-wheener post.


----------



## the-pred

Great just tried to place the order with PP but realized that online is for US customers only. I sent them an email so I hope the honor the price on Monday. Cheapest I found in Canada was $1369


----------



## 3Aims




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19542700
> 
> 
> Great just tried to place the order with PP but realized that online is for US customers only. I sent them an email so I hope the honor the price on Monday. Cheapest I found in Canada was $1369



Yea, they are closed on Friday. I hope so.


----------



## rraulston

I have nothing of value to say.........except I have a bottle of Don Julio and a 4 day weekend to watch the most KICK A$$ TV I HAVE EVER OWNED!!!!! Now.....if I could just keep the neighbors away.........


----------



## Rudmeister

I googled the 8350, clicked the shopping tab, and hhgregg showed up at $1039. I printed it and brought it to BB and they met the price. Why do some of you think we should not post this? It can only help some people save some money.


----------



## Davinleeds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/19542726
> 
> 
> I have nothing of value to say.........except I have a bottle of Don Julio and a 4 day weekend to watch the most KICK A$$ TV I HAVE EVER OWNED!!!!! Now.....if I could just keep the neighbors away.........



Only one?


----------



## poblack

Pardon my ignorance. I'm new to projectors.


I have a few questions:


1. I read somewhere on this thread that this projector has a 2.35:1 feature. Does this mean I don't need to get an anamorphic lens to watch movies in this aspect ratio? If I have a 16:9 screen, will there be black bars on the top and bottom when viewing in 2.35:1 mode?


2. I want to get a 120" screen. I have no problem with the throw distance but the first row of seating in my home theater is at 12-13' from the screen. Is that an ok viewing distance in a light controlled environment?


3. Does this projector have a customizable "home screen" where it will show an image every time I turn it on?


thanks


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

Got this today for 1089.99 From ultimate-electronics from price matching on amazon. The store had to order, should have it within the next 2 weeks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19542176
> 
> 
> Well mine came in about a week ago and has been sitting in the box in the bedroom. Carpet was installed in my theater room today so I thought I would hook it up to see if it works. No sound yet as my speakers are not here, and my Seymour screen material is on the way. I just put the 8350 on an end table hooked up the Ps3 and aimed at a tan wall from about 12'.
> 
> 
> All I have to say is WOW!!!




So there are no built in speakers at all? I read a few reviews that said it had built-in speakers... hmm, that's a little dissapointing, but I guess I can find a cheap alternative. Any suggestions? Was eventually going to upgrade to a nice sound system, but was hoping to save up for a bit.


edit- http://www.home-entertainment-news.c...projector.html 


That review there says it has speakers.... Little dissapointing







.


----------



## jpagger1

Has anyone used this projector with a Black Diamond 0.8 screen or does that not make sense given the cost of the screen relative to the projector? I'm looking for a good screen that will allow for some ambient lighting for sports viewing but also be good for movies in a dark setting.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpagger1* /forum/post/19542945
> 
> 
> Has anyone used this projector with a Black Diamond 0.8 screen or does that not make sense given the cost of the screen relative to the projector? I'm looking for a good screen that will allow for some ambient lighting for sports viewing but also be good for movies in a dark setting.



It is better to go with a cheaper projector rather than a cheaper screen and more expensive projector...


The screen is a very key component to any home theater set up..


Now as for the 8350 on a .8 gain black diamond

It would do very well and i would totally recommend it.


I do have a .8 gain black diamond screen

and for sports nothing can touch it.

Its like you are live at the sporting event...

As for movies with the lights off , a 2:35 black bars dissapear into the screen and there is very little light scatter on the walls and ceiling...


No need for masking, and you have a dark room with lights off..

I love mine and would recommend anyone looking for a screen to go with

a black diamond.....


The nice thing is down the road you can always up grade your Projector to a higher end unit if desired..


----------



## wickedg8gt

Does anyone else have a little overspill of light on there border. I still cant get it a perfect rectangle for nothin or get it perfect to what i already bordered


----------



## Chad T




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rudmeister* /forum/post/19542168
> 
> 
> I just bought it at BB for $1039, got home and set it up on a tv tray, hooked up the bd player, hung an old sheet and was blown away by the 116" picture. This thing has plenty of lite for just about any situation. In dynamic mode I can turn all the lights up to full and still have a good picture.
> 
> Will have to wait a few weeks for the official opening but can't wait.
> 
> 
> I still have a 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Screen material, i have 2 choices white matte and 1.3 gain or grey and .9 gain
> 
> 
> 2. what is the optimal distance I should mount it from the 120" screen?



Hello.


You might want to check out the link in my signature. I tested 5 different screen materials. I personally don't care for gray. Yes, blacks can be better, but at the expense of everything else....at least in my experience with the material I used.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So anyone? Does the 8350 have internal speakers at all? I was hoping to have some for temporary speakers.


----------



## jeffreydc

I just bought this projector from Best Buy and hooked it up. I must say I am VERY disappointed so far. It is MARGINALLY better than my 5 YEAR OLD PANASONIC pt ae900u. It is brighter but thats about it. I cant really tell the difference between the 720p and 1080p. Maybe its the pannys lack of screen door effect...I dont know. Xbox 360 looks the same on both. Neither are as sharp or clear as my samsung 58" plasma. I was hoping to buy this instead of another 60" plasma but I think I may have made a mistake. Am I missing something here? And if this thing is only 60Hz wouldn't I be better off just going with a plasma?


----------



## bartine

I believe it is running 1080P at 60 Hz. Because that is a progressive scan, that is equivalent to 120 Hz.


What signal are you feeding it? Light conditions?


----------



## jeffreydc

I am running 1080p bluray and 1080p through my xbox. Dont get me wrong it looks fantastic but so does my old panny. It is much brighter than my panny. I was just hoping it would be a HUGE jump in quality especially for how much ridiculously bigger this beast is...lol! Maybe its just the games I am playing on it. Im starting to think that maybe xbox games just dont look as good on a pj as they do on a tv. I am going to try a few others and then compare them. I just dont understand why this damn thing has to be SO MUCH BIGGER than the Optoma HD20. I hope I made the right choice by choosing this one over the Optoma.


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19543290
> 
> 
> I just bought this projector from Best Buy and hooked it up. I must say I am VERY disappointed so far. It is MARGINALLY better than my 5 YEAR OLD PANASONIC pt ae900u. It is brighter but thats about it. I cant really tell the difference between the 720p and 1080p. Maybe its the pannys lack of screen door effect...I dont know. Xbox 360 looks the same on both. Neither are as sharp or clear as my samsung 58" plasma. I was hoping to buy this instead of another 60" plasma but I think I may have made a mistake. Am I missing something here? And if this thing is only 60Hz wouldn't I be better off just going with a plasma?



Xbox 360 SHOULD look the same on both.....its freakin' 720p, IF that. Most of its games ate 540p or LOWER.


Feed the thing NATIVE 1080p content and you'll see the difference.


----------



## jeffreydc

Im not sure why you think xbox 360 is in 720p. Im confused now. Mine is set to 1080p and the games I play or in 1080p. Is Microsoft lying about this?


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> Does anyone else have a little overspill of light on there border. I still cant get it a perfect rectangle for nothin or get it perfect to what i already bordered



Same here the picture is not perfectly square. I'm using quite a bit of vertical lest shift tho. I don't think this projector has a keystone correction option either.


Personally, I don't really mind tho.


----------



## Zanna




> Quote:
> I am running 1080p bluray and 1080p through my xbox. Dont get me wrong it looks fantastic but so does my old panny. It is much brighter than my panny. I was just hoping it would be a HUGE jump in quality especially for how much ridiculously bigger this beast is...lol! Maybe its just the games I am playing on it. Im starting to think that maybe xbox games just dont look as good on a pj as they do on a tv. I am going to try a few others and then compare them. I just dont understand why this damn thing has to be SO MUCH BIGGER than the Optoma HD20. I hope I made the right choice by choosing this one over the Optoma.



I did the same exact jump from panny to epson. Personally I noticed a solid improvement on bluray in particular in regards to color and black levels. The higher resolution also makes a huge difference if you run a computer on it. I use my laptop as HTPC and the resolution difference makes it way more usable.


I agree that on Xbox the main difference was on the brightness for me was more than welcome since I'm running the PJ in the living room and I'm now able to watch it in day time or with some lights on without problems.


----------



## jeffreydc

Im about 99% confident I will be returning this projector tomorrow. The only bonus to my old projector I have noticed is its brightness. Motion blur is HORRIBLE and makes fast paced action movies or xbox 360 unplayable. Unless I have the settings wrong other than out of the box I think this projector pretty much sucks. I cant see what all the rave reviews are about. This pj in no way can even remotely compete with even the cheapest plasma or lcd for anything other than slow paced movies. Is this the best we can expect in pj technology over a five year period since I bought my Panny 900. Pretty sad I think.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about 99% confident I will be returning this projector tomorrow. The only bonus to my old projector I have noticed is its brightness. Motion blur is HORRIBLE and makes fast paced action movies or xbox 360 unplayable. Unless I have the settings wrong other than out of the box I think this projector pretty much sucks. I cant see what all the rave reviews are about. This pj in no way can even remotely compete with even the cheapest plasma or lcd for anything other than slow paced movies. Is this the best we can expect in pj technology over a five year period since I bought my Panny 900. Pretty sad I think.



Thanks for being honest lol. I did notice some blur when playing gears of war 2 on my xbox, but when I play on my ps3(call of duty,NBA 2k11, madden) it's perfect. Better than my Sony z5100 lol.


----------



## jeffreydc

NEWS FLASH!!!!! I zoomed out just a bit and now it seems like the blur is gone and the image is sharper!!! Anti-aliasing seems better as well. On a 120" screen xbox 360 looks pretty crappy but when I reduce it to about 100" or less it looks great. I didn't reallize how SMALL a 60" screen actually is until I zoomed out and measured it. I thought it was surely smaller than my 58" plasma until I measured it at 93"...lol. So I guess it is still better than buying another flatscreen even if I have to play xbox at less than 120".


----------



## eliwankenobi

hmm...do you have your xbox360 connected through hdmi or component?


look at the manual...there are some settings for properly setting up the image on component video connected sources....


weird how changing the zoom fixed your motion blur issue.....


Now you have another reason to be thankful ( I know I am with mine!)


Happy Thanksgiving to all here!


----------



## bartine

I'm thinking about buying a 4350.


I have a 135" diagonal screen in my dedicated theater room.


The projector would be ceiling mounted in a built in box with the lenses about 13.5 - 14 feet from the screen. Looking at the screen calculator, the 8350 will have to be with its lens at its widest to fill the screen.


How will this affect performance? Does anyone else have a similar setup?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19544065
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a 4035.
> 
> 
> I have a 135" diagonal screen in my dedicated theater room.
> 
> 
> The projector would be ceiling mounted in a built in box with the lenses about 13.5 - 14 feet from the screen. Looking at the screen calculator, the 8350 will have to be with its lens at its widest to fill the screen.
> 
> 
> How will this affect performance? Does anyone else have a similar setup?



At that throw distance i wouldnt recommend going over 113 inch size screen...


----------



## Ix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19543448
> 
> 
> Im not sure why you think xbox 360 is in 720p. Im confused now. Mine is set to 1080p and the games I play or in 1080p. Is Microsoft lying about this?



Your 360 may be set to output at 1080p but the point he was making is very few, if any, games use that as a native resolution. The Halo series, in particular, don't even natively run at 720p and are instead scaled. They usually look great scaled up but they are not true 1080p which may explain why you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference between this and a 720p PJ with games.


Are you using this with a screen, btw? Your zooming comments lead me to believe that maybe you are using your wall instead.


----------



## fraisa

Okay going to be totally honest to everyone.......

If you are trying to achieve an amazing Plasma type picture with

a $1100 Projector and a $600-$700 screen your wasting your Time........


If you buy an entry level projector and an entry level screen

your going to get entry level results


But there is a Reason why Epson has a 8350 model and a 9700ub model

and its just not because epson makes more money on a 9700ub unit


If you want a great picture with an entry level projector you need to get a top grade type screen...


THere are alot of top end screen companies out there Pic One

Heck even goo screen Paint is better than a matte white pull down best buy special...



This Epson 8350 for its price has a Tone of features where even 2 yrs ago would have cost over 3000$

I understand there are alot of people that this projector is your first unit...

but if you think your going to get LCD or Plasma Results with little investment

Please invite me to your party......lol


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19544097
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Epson 8350 for its price has a Tone of features where even 2 yrs ago would have cost over 3000$
> 
> I understand there are alot of people that this projector is your first unit...
> 
> but if you think your going to get LCD or Plasma Results with little investment
> 
> Please invite me to your party......lol



You can pick any party I throw, have thrown over the last 8 years. I'm not advocating my DIY applications much on this thread due to it's location, but with yourself being a BD owner, I see in your comments a bit of bias based on what you yourself felt was required to spend for the image you wanted.


Shame that....because I've accomplished the same level of performance of the BD / Stewart products using painted solutions for sometime now, as have many who have decided to follow suit. Even Passive 3D applications. Affordably. Like 10x *+*less. :rolleyes'


I know your happy...I've read your posts on that Infomercial BD Thread.









But save the Blanket endorsement of the need to overspend. It's simply not true, and has not been for many years now on AVS.


We both should just let it go at that...leastwise on this thread dedicated to this particular PJ and not the Screen to be used.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19544209
> 
> 
> You can pick any party I throw, have thrown over the last 8 years. I'm not advocating my DIY applications much on this thread due to it's location, but with yourself being a BD owner, I see in your comments a bit of bias based on what you yourself felt was required to spend for the image you wanted.
> 
> 
> Shame that....because I've accomplished the same level of performance of the BD / Stewart products using painted solutions for sometime now, as has many who have decided to follow suit. Even Passive 3D.
> 
> 
> I know your happy...I've read your posts on that Infomercial BD Thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But save the Blanket endorsement of the need to overspend. It's simply not true, and has not been for many years now on AVS.



Dude you have totally missed what i have said...


If you dont want to shell out the money for a high end screen then there are other alternatives that are far superior than a BB Matte White pull down special...

Quote from above...

"Heck even goo screen Paint is better than a matte white pull down best buy special..."


Clearly you have done your home work and study in Paint material that is producing a good picture ... Thats Awesome


But to one that doesnt do that and get the entry level projector with an entry level matte white screen pull down special , there is no way to can get a plasma type pic...


Thats my point either go with a good screen or paint solution.....

To achieve the best from the Epson 8350.....


----------



## fraisa

Hey Miss can you post a couple of screen shots extra screen shots

to show off the quality of the Epson 8350

thanks


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19543136
> 
> 
> So anyone? Does the 8350 have internal speakers at all? I was hoping to have some for temporary speakers.



No speakers.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19544457
> 
> 
> No speakers.



Alright that's fine. With the money I saved price matching I'm going to buy a cheap Home theater in a box, however I'm torn and was hoping you guys could help me before the end of the day, when the sales end.44

http://www.av-express.com/AV-Catalog...ineHomeTheater 


This for 350$ or...

http://www.shoponkyo.com/detail.cfm?...il=1&ext_war=0 


This for 270ish.


----------



## Opus33

I would definitely go with the Onkyo. I have ordered several refurbs from ClubOnkyo over the years and they have all been great.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Opus33* /forum/post/19544919
> 
> 
> I would definitely go with the Onkyo. I have ordered several refurbs from ClubOnkyo over the years and they have all been great.



That's what i've chosen, but I can't get the 20% to apply. At 320 it's still a damn good deal, but why not take the 60 off... I just can't get it to work.


----------



## expertmech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19544097
> 
> 
> Okay going to be totally honest to everyone.......
> 
> If you are trying to achieve an amazing Plasma type picture with
> 
> a $1100 Projector and a $600-$700 screen your wasting your Time........
> 
> 
> If you buy an entry level projector and an entry level screen
> 
> your going to get entry level results
> 
> 
> But there is a Reason why Epson has a 8350 model and a 9700ub model
> 
> and its just not because epson makes more money on a 9700ub unit
> 
> 
> If you want a great picture with an entry level projector you need to get a top grade type screen...
> 
> 
> THere are alot of top end screen companies out there Pic One
> 
> Heck even goo screen Paint is better than a matte white pull down best buy special...
> 
> 
> 
> This Epson 8350 for its price has a Tone of features where even 2 yrs ago would have cost over 3000$
> 
> I understand there are alot of people that this projector is your first unit...
> 
> but if you think your going to get LCD or Plasma Results with little investment
> 
> Please invite me to your party......lol




I haven't hooked mine up yet - still spackling and prepping to paint the wall...


BUT YOU ARE INVITED TO THE PARTY!!!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *expertmech* /forum/post/19545066
> 
> 
> I haven't hooked mine up yet - still spackling and prepping to paint the wall...
> 
> 
> BUT YOU ARE INVITED TO THE PARTY!!!



Hey i will bring the wings and the Dr...PEpper....lol

Please post pics when your done..


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19544241
> 
> 
> Hey Miss can you post a couple of screen shots extra screen shots
> 
> to show off the quality of the Epson 8350
> 
> thanks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19545194
> 
> 
> Hey i will bring the wings and the Dr...PEpper....lol
> 
> Please post pics when your done..




hey! Sorry for the misdirected reply. Your right as rain that people should not be expecting the best out of 1.0 matte White Screens. PJs like the 8350 can still benefit from the perceived boost on "steady contrast" shooting onto reflective Gray surfaces.


But...it's a testimonial to the improvement of the performance and resolution aspects of the current crop of new PJs that many do in fact make such comparisons to direct view Displays, even when they set it up out of the Box, as is, and shoot onto an existing white wall.


Used to was...., when we'd see that statement being made, we KNEW we had someone posting who did not have a lick of prior experience in the FP department. Those types impress very easily. Nowadays though, it's getting harder and harder to rebut such exclamations. But even so many things remain the same. Effective room planning (lighting & colors), matching Lumen output and available "native contrast" to the surface being considered,

all to the expectations and budget of the end user...., those things make up a truly successful project. No singular aspect can provide the answer, only help mitigate one or all the others if they fall short.


I'll post up some recent pics...including some impressive ambient light shots, so Steel Your Wool!


----------



## fraisa

For anyone who has purchased the 8350 Projector and is looking for a good Calibration disc that will help you get the most out of this unit

I recommend AVIA II Cali Disc...

This is a DVD Tutorial that walks you thru adjustments to Video and Audio for your System

It will help you adjust for Brightness, Contrast,

Lets you aware of Red Push and how to adjust it back..

ALso has a tone of Extra Video Calibration tools that can turn this 8350 into a Gold Standard Projector...

I have it and it takes the adjusting to another level .....

http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For anyone who has purchased the 8350 Projector and is looking for a good Calibration disc that will help you get the most out of this unit
> 
> I recommend AVIA II Cali Disc...
> 
> I have it and it takes the adjusting to another level .....
> 
> http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/




Good stuff, thanks.


----------



## allen1994




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19518746
> 
> 
> Try using a different input on the 8350 and/or source and see if the issue persists.
> 
> Also, are you watching copy protected movies(HDCP)?



Bought Bluray player and the same purple flash still showing up. I called Epson and they will ship another unit out. Keeping my finger crossed and hope the same symptom does not appear again.


----------



## spfcbrasil

I really need some advice here....


just received my epson 8350... I just turned it on...but the image is blurry...and when I try to adjust it, the focus ring appears to be stuck. The zoom ring I can adjust easily, but the focus ring not. It is normal or not ? I dont want to break it trying to rotate the ring.


Your help is very appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spfcbrasil* /forum/post/19546594
> 
> 
> I really need some advice here....
> 
> 
> just received my epson 8350... I just turned it on...but the image is blurry...and when I try to adjust it, the focus ring appears to be stuck. The zoom ring I can adjust easily, but the focus ring not. It is normal or not ? I dont want to break it trying to rotate the ring.
> 
> 
> Your help is very appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You removed the foam packing ring, right? Can you freely turn both rings - the inner zoom and the outer focus?


----------



## spfcbrasil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19546674
> 
> 
> You removed the foam packing ring, right? Can you freely turn both rings - the inner zoom and the outer focus?



Yes, I removed the yellow foam packing ring. I just can freely turn the zoom ring. The focus ring cant be moved.


----------



## Amino

I love this projector -- it's just annoying that I can't plug my xbox in directly via HDMI and have audio out from the projector (unless I missed something...). Has anyone seen a small (preferably portable) HDMI switch that has analog audio out?


----------



## WithAlligators

Hey guys,

Any chance of us doing a census here on who's got the red haze and who doesn't? As I put hours on, it's becoming more and more distracting as it worsens ever so slightly. We just watched the Guy Ritchie Sherlock Holmes on BR and I could easily see it during dark scenes or when there was a character with a dark coat framed in the lower right (which is often). Mine didn't show up until 4 or 5 hours in and I have about 40 now. So, to anyone with over 20 hours, do you have it, and how badly? If this is a universal thing, I may press for a return, as as much as I love everything else about it, the red haze is a dealbreaker.


----------



## spfcbrasil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spfcbrasil* /forum/post/19546594
> 
> 
> I really need some advice here....
> 
> 
> just received my epson 8350... I just turned it on...but the image is blurry...and when I try to adjust it, the focus ring appears to be stuck. The zoom ring I can adjust easily, but the focus ring not. It is normal or not ? I dont want to break it trying to rotate the ring.
> 
> 
> Your help is very appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



No one can help me ?


----------



## sgtdejavu

Sounds like you have a defective unit. Both the focus and the zoom should turn easily.


This projector is made in China, that is how Epson got to this price point. Buying TVs and high-tech stuff is a crap shoot. My 8350 is working like a champ so far, keep my fingers crossed.


Does anyone have an opinion on HHG's extended warranty? I have 15 days from purchase date to buy it, $300/3-yrs or $400//5-yrs. Includes bulb replacement.


----------



## sgtdejavu

This is my first projector and trying to figure out the best way to go for screen. Right now I am leaning towards the Elite EzFrame 100". PP has the best price but I did talk with a very nice gentleman at HTDepot who told me that gray screen is not necessary for this projector because of its high contrast output. He suggested the Elite for best bang for the buck. Any opinions?


BTW, right now I have 8' of blackout fabric stapled to the wall as a temporary solution and the picture looks great, believe it or not. You have to get the projector perfectly square to the wall for good focus. Use the built in test pattern and measure top to bottom on each side of the image, be sure the distance between the top and bottom lines are the same on both sides. Repeat side to side.


----------



## TMah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amino* /forum/post/19547358
> 
> 
> I love this projector -- it's just annoying that I can't plug my xbox in directly via HDMI and have audio out from the projector (unless I missed something...). Has anyone seen a small (preferably portable) HDMI switch that has analog audio out?



There is a cable out called the digital audio cable for xbox 360 which plugs into the other video out port on the xbox, it will give you the audio outs you need, and give you the space to plug your hdmi cable in. Here is a link:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21210


----------



## Amino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMah* /forum/post/19547877
> 
> 
> There is a cable out called the digital audio cable for xbox 360 which plugs into the other video out port on the xbox, it will give you the audio outs you need, and give you the space to plug your hdmi cable in. Here is a link:
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21210



Thanks TMah -- I'm going to order one now. Every time I buy stuff from deal extreme i end up with a bunch of random stuff (lasers, magnets, random gadgets etc..). awesome!


----------



## sgtdejavu

I would like to share what I have learned so far regarding placement and throw distance. From a review I read at projectorcental.com, ideally the distance to the screen should be so the projector lens is near mid-point in its zoom range. Using either extreme of the zoom range leads to either lower light output (39% at telephoto, smallest image) or focus quality (at wide angle). I think you can use the majority of the 2.1:1 zoom range and be fine, just stay away from the boundaries. See Limitations in the review.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm 


Here a couple of useful links for calculating throw distances. The Epson link also calculates the shift offsets, pretty neat. Spend some time using these calculators. Be sure to select the projector model before using them.


http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 

http://www.htdepot.com/Projector_scr...s/49.htm#three


----------



## 42Plasmaman

fyi-

Best Buy has the 8350 for $1195 starting Sunday.

So if you can't wait, buy today then price match their own ad on Sunday.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Anyone using a blu-ray player should try using the 24hz output on the player and leave the projector 2:2 pull down On under the signal menu.

PQ looks a little smoother during fast action scenes & also looks a little sharper.


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19545831
> 
> 
> For anyone who has purchased the 8350 Projector and is looking for a good Calibration disc that will help you get the most out of this unit
> 
> I recommend AVIA II Cali Disc...
> 
> This is a DVD Tutorial that walks you thru adjustments to Video and Audio for your System
> 
> It will help you adjust for Brightness, Contrast,
> 
> Lets you aware of Red Push and how to adjust it back..
> 
> ALso has a tone of Extra Video Calibration tools that can turn this 8350 into a Gold Standard Projector...
> 
> I have it and it takes the adjusting to another level .....
> 
> http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/



Waiting for the Blu-Ray version...


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19548004
> 
> 
> fyi-
> 
> Best Buy has the 8350 for $1195 starting Sunday.
> 
> So if you can't wait, buy today then price match their own ad on Sunday.



Wow...I have to check if they do so in Best Buy Puerto Rico!! I already bought mine this week and maybe I can get them to price match too!


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* /forum/post/19547801
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion on HHG's extended warranty? I have 15 days from purchase date to buy it, $300/3-yrs or $400//5-yrs. Includes bulb replacement.



I personally purchased the warranty due to its bulb performance replacement. I was told that when the bulb gets to half life and starts to dim I can call and get it replaced. I do not have to wait for the bulb to blow up to get another.


So far i have over 90 hours on this projector in about a month of owning it. I love this thing. My son loves Call of Duty on this thing. I must admit this is by far the best AV purchase I have ever made.


----------



## bk

I was offered the extended warranty when I purchasedy 8350 from HHGregg and was told the same thing about replacing the bulb when it gets dim. I asked to see the actual warranty and it just says it covers lamp replacement in the case of lmp failure. I wouldn't count on a lamp replacement just for normal dimming


----------



## Uber12

I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now and is it my imagination, or could the image actually be getting better with time? I'm used to viewing on a 42" plasma and when I first got the projector, I loved the size of the image but it came across as a very "matte" look as opposed to the "glossy" look of the plasma. I watched a bit of The Dark Knight again last night and the image really impressed me. It seemed to really pop, especially the IMAX scenes. Is there a break-in period for it where it gets better after a dozen hours, or do you think I'm just getting used to the type of image that it produces?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19548123
> 
> 
> Waiting for the Blu-Ray version...



Disney has a Blue Ray Calibration Disc Called Wow Calibration

I just ordered it from BB.Com...

34.99


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Amino* /forum/post/19547358
> 
> 
> I love this projector -- it's just annoying that I can't plug my xbox in directly via HDMI and have audio out from the projector (unless I missed something...). Has anyone seen a small (preferably portable) HDMI switch that has analog audio out?



I do have a Pysclone HDMI Switch that has 4 in and 1 out

it also does have an digital audio out..

I still have the original box

It has Digital Front display that is Editable..

PM ME if intrested....


----------



## Frollo

I'm just loving this projector. I have about 100 hrs on it so far, and last night I noticed something troubling. I was watching Thunderball on blu ray and in dark scenes (like the underwater ones), I could see the lines on the right and left where the 4x3 picture would end. The colour was just slightly different on either side of these lines. Not noticeable in normal scenes. I had just watched a 4x3 show before the movie.


Then after the movie, I watched some 16x9 from a PVR and I could see the horizontal lines where the movie (which was superwide screen) ended.


This happened on my plasma after a few years of watching a mix of 4x3 and 16x9 (slightly brighter picture on the sides), but was very surprised to see a similar effect on this pj after just 100 hours. Also, the image on the sides looked dimmer, not brighter??


Anyone else notice this?


----------



## Uber12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19548753
> 
> 
> Disney has a Blue Ray Calibration Disc Called Wow Calibration
> 
> I just ordered it from BB.Com...
> 
> 34.99



It's also available for Disney Movie Rewards members for 1225 points.


----------



## bartine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/19548193
> 
> 
> I personally purchased the warranty due to its bulb performance replacement. I was told that when the bulb gets to half life and starts to dim I can call and get it replaced. I do not have to wait for the bulb to blow up to get another.
> 
> 
> So far i have over 90 hours on this projector in about a month of owning it. I love this thing. My son loves Call of Duty on this thing. I must admit this is by far the best AV purchase I have ever made.



I bought one today from HHGreg, and initially got the 5 year warranty. After reading some of the feedback on Warrantech, I'm not sure it is really a good buy.


Also - these come with a 2 year warranty. Buying the projector with my Amex automatically extends that to 3 years. The big kicker is that if they "replace" the projector once, the warranty is then closed. So - if your bulb went out at 1 year, and they replaced it, your warranty is then over.


Read the fine print to see if it works for you.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19549245
> 
> 
> I bought one today from HHGreg, and initially got the 5 year warranty. After reading some of the feedback on Warrantech, I'm not sure it is really a good buy.
> 
> 
> Also - these come with a 2 year warranty. Buying the projector with my Amex automatically extends that to 3 years. The big kicker is that if they "replace" the projector once, the warranty is then closed. So - if your bulb went out at 1 year, and they replaced it, your warranty is then over.
> 
> 
> Read the fine print to see if it works for you.



THat is one benifit to getting a 8700 or 9700 series unit..

The 8700 has a full 2 year replacement that lasts the full two years

the 9700 has 3 year replacement last the full 3 years and comes with a Flush Mount , Extra Lamp, and a back Cable Cover

Also both units have had a price reduction vs last yrs models


----------



## stim

How much room should I leave behind the projector for ventilation? I checked the manual and it only said to leave "plenty" of room.


----------



## msujohn

Need some advice. I currently have a infocus screen play 5700 (720P) projector but need to replace the bulb. It looks like the bulb/housing will cost me about $500 to replace. I'm debating if I should just replace the bulb or upgrade to the 8350 -roughly $1200.


I have a 92 inch Draper Onyx screen. My room is 17 x 17 (10 foot ceiling). This is a dedciated media room (no light at all). Main purpose is for sports and movies. The projector would have to be mounted in the ceiling at about 14.5 feet from the screen. (currently this is how my infocus is mounted).


I do not want to replace my screen. Here are my questions.


- Will the 8350 be a significant upgrade?

- Any issues with the throw ratio mounting it at 14.5 ft on 92 inch screen?

- I'm assuming I will need another mount as well - what would you recommend?

- Are there any issues going from a DLP to a LCD projector?

- Any other advice/help would be appreciated.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frollo* /forum/post/19548800
> 
> 
> I'm just loving this projector. I have about 100 hrs on it so far, and last night I noticed something troubling. I was watching Thunderball on blu ray and in dark scenes (like the underwater ones), I could see the lines on the right and left where the 4x3 picture would end. The colour was just slightly different on either side of these lines. Not noticeable in normal scenes. I had just watched a 4x3 show before the movie.
> 
> 
> Then after the movie, I watched some 16x9 from a PVR and I could see the horizontal lines where the movie (which was superwide screen) ended.
> 
> 
> This happened on my plasma after a few years of watching a mix of 4x3 and 16x9 (slightly brighter picture on the sides), but was very surprised to see a similar effect on this pj after just 100 hours. Also, the image on the sides looked dimmer, not brighter??
> 
> 
> Anyone else notice this?



1. What is your screen size?

2. Projector distance from the screen?

3. Where is the projector located in respect to your screen?

Top, bottom, middle, left side, right side, etc...


4. How does the blue PATTERN screen look on the screen?

Any discoloration or non-uniformed blue color?


5. "I could see the lines on the right and left where the 4x3 picture would end. The colour was just slightly different on either side of these lines. "


Can this be seen from your normal viewing distance/seat?

If you are looking at the screen 4-10 inches from the screen, what you might be seeing is a slight color convergence, which is o be expected from a 3LCD type projector.


6. What is your source/player used for video/movies?


7. Are you using HDMI or Component to the projector?

.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msujohn* /forum/post/19549837
> 
> 
> Need some advice. I currently have a infocus screen play 5700 (720P) projector but need to replace the bulb. It looks like the bulb/housing will cost me about $500 to replace. I'm debating if I should just replace the bulb or upgrade to the 8350 -roughly $1200.
> 
> 
> I have a 92 inch Draper Onyx screen. My room is 17 x 17 (10 foot ceiling). This is a dedciated media room (no light at all). Main purpose is for sports and movies. The projector would have to be mounted in the ceiling at about 14.5 feet from the screen. (currently this is how my infocus is mounted).
> 
> 
> I do not want to replace my screen. Here are my questions.
> 
> 
> - Will the 8350 be a significant upgrade?
> 
> - Any issues with the throw ratio mounting it at 14.5 ft on 92 inch screen?
> 
> - I'm assuming I will need another mount as well - what would you recommend?
> 
> - Are there any issues going from a DLP to a LCD projector?
> 
> - Any other advice/help would be appreciated.



My 8350 is mounted about 15 feet from a 117" screen and I have no issues with brightness and I use the Cinema mode. Dynamic mode will burn your eyes out in a light controlled room.


With a smaller screen, you'll yeild more brightness as well according to the calculator below.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


1. What is your seating distance from the screen?

If less than 5-6 feet, the screen door effect may be an issue.

*This is the only concern with going from DLP to LCD IMO.


----------



## fraisa

can someone please post a pic of the 8350 remote

thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stim* /forum/post/19549472
> 
> 
> How much room should I leave behind the projector for ventilation? I checked the manual and it only said to leave "plenty" of room.



Enough to suck air into the projector. As long as it's not obstructed and gets good flow into the projector, you should be OK.

The front of the projector is where the heat is exhausted and that definitely should have ample room.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19549990
> 
> 
> can someone please post a pic of the 8350 remote
> 
> thanks


----------



## msujohn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19549969
> 
> 
> My 8350 is mounted about 15 feet from a 117" screen and I have no issues with brightness and I use the Cinema mode. Dynamic mode will burn your eyes out in a light controlled room.
> 
> 
> With a smaller screen, you'll yeild more brightness as well according to the calculator below.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm
> 
> 
> 1. What is your seating distance from the screen?
> 
> If less than 5-6 feet, the screen door effect may be an issue.
> 
> *This is the only concern with going from DLP to LCD IMO.



My seating is 11 - 16 feet from the screen.


----------



## allen1994

China made is craps when it comes to electronics. I would pay a little more to have it made in Japan where it was originally designed and built.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen1994* /forum/post/19550324
> 
> 
> China made is craps when it comes to electronics. I would pay a little more to have it made in Japan where it was originally designed and built.



And this informative post is a reply to what?


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1. What is your screen size?
> 
> 2. Projector distance from the screen?
> 
> 3. Where is the projector located in respect to your screen?
> 
> Top, bottom, middle, left side, right side, etc...
> 
> 
> 4. How does the blue PATTERN screen look on the screen?
> 
> Any discoloration or non-uniformed blue color?
> 
> 
> 5. "I could see the lines on the right and left where the 4x3 picture would end. The colour was just slightly different on either side of these lines. "
> 
> 
> Can this be seen from your normal viewing distance/seat?
> 
> If you are looking at the screen 4-10 inches from the screen, what you might be seeing is a slight color convergence, which is o be expected from a 3LCD type projector.
> 
> 
> 6. What is your source/player used for video/movies?
> 
> 
> 7. Are you using HDMI or Component to the projector?
> 
> .



1. 122"

2. 13'

3. Top middle

4. Nope it looks perfect - completely uniform

5. Yea normal seating. Can definitely see where the 4x3 edges are in dark scenes

6. PS3 and HD pvr

7. HDMI from a yamaha, set to output at 1080p


It is very subtle and is more noticeable with darker brown images, or blue.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frollo* /forum/post/19550472
> 
> 
> 1. 122"
> 
> 2. 13'
> 
> 3. Top middle
> 
> 4. Nope it looks perfect - completely uniform
> 
> 5. Yea normal seating. Can definitely see where the 4x3 edges are in dark scenes
> 
> 6. PS3 and HD pvr
> 
> 7. HDMI from a yamaha, set to output at 1080p
> 
> 
> It is very subtle and is more noticeable with darker brown images, or blue.



Just for a test, have you tried a different HDMI cable and connect it directly from the PS3 to the projector to see if the results are different?


----------



## Frollo

The run from the receiver to the pj is over 25 ft, and i only have one hdmi cable that length. I tried component cables and no difference. It is actually less pronouned today than it was just after watching some 4x3 content. I wonder if the filters get hot and alter the colur temperature slightly.


----------



## Favelle

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Ix* 
Your 360 may be set to output at 1080p but the point he was making is very few, if any, games use that as a native resolution. The Halo series, in particular, don't even natively run at 720p and are instead scaled. They usually look great scaled up but they are not true 1080p which may explain why you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference between this and a 720p PJ with games.


Are you using this with a screen, btw? Your zooming comments lead me to believe that maybe you are using your wall instead.
Yup, EXACTLY. SCALED OUTPUT and NATIVE RESOLUTION are NOT the same thing.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *allen1994* 
China made is craps when it comes to electronics. I would pay a little more to have it made in Japan where it was originally designed and built.
Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
And this informative post is a reply to what?








It's been shown repeatedly that the vast majority of premature Bulb Failures come from the use of the China-made Bulbs that are OEM'd with the units. Undoubtedly that is what lies behind Epson's decision to replace ALL bulb failures during the life of the "PJs" warranty with Bulbs made in Japan.


Watch out for those Toys too! (...needs no further explanation....)


----------



## Xylon

I installed this PJ for a family member. I would say its outstanding PQ for the price. His previous PJ was the classic Infocus 4805 with 3500 hours on *original lamp*.


We quickly tested it out with some HD movies like Avatar and Sound of Music. He has a 92" matte white screen 1.0. Its incredible what you can get now for big screen HT users.


----------



## luebster

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
fyi-

Best Buy has the 8350 for $1195 starting Sunday.

So if you can't wait, buy today then price match their own ad on Sunday.
ProjectorPeople (an AVS sponsor, BTW) has it right now for $1,099 & free shipping using "PARADE" coupon code. If you want it in your hands today, maybe you can see if BestBuy or HHGregg will match their price.


----------



## sgtdejavu

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
It's been shown repeatedly that the vast majority of premature Bulb Failures come from the use of the China-made Bulbs that are OEM'd with the units. Undoubtedly that is what lies behind Epson's decision to replace ALL bulb failures during the life of the "PJs" warranty with Bulbs made in Japan.


Watch out for those Toys too! (...needs no further explanation....)








What Epson's are made in Japan?


----------



## hgroff

Pulled the trigger on Epson 8350 with Projectorpeople for $1099 shipping free. Wondering how long it will take to arrive?


Does anyone want to share calibration settings?


is avia for blu ray available? Saw a posting for wow calibration, does it work well?


----------



## bartine

Quote:

Originally Posted by *luebster* 
ProjectorPeople (an AVS sponsor, BTW) has it right now for $1,099 & free shipping using "PARADE" coupon code. If you want it in your hands today, maybe you can see if BestBuy or HHGregg will match their price.


Bought one yesterday at the HHGreg in Melbourne, FL. The 8350 was $1036, and I used a $75 and $10 off coupons for $951.


You can get the coupons by going to HHGreg.com and joining their Gold HHGold program. Make sure to say you want info on all their products, and then you will get the $10 off $100 coupon mailed to you, and their $75 off $1000 coupon will pop up on the HHGreg site.


You'll have to pay sales tax - wound up about $1017.50.


Now I have made the mistake of watching the ProjectorPeople comparison of the 85D, 8350 and 8700 UB. The 8700 UB just blows the 8350 away! Now I am having semi-buyers remorse. Trying to convince my wife "It is $1,000 more, but it comes with a free bulb!









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr1lv...eature=related 


I also read their online review - there were definitely artifacts showing up in the 8350 compared to other sets...


----------



## bartine

The side by side pictures of the train in this review of the 8700 vs 8350 are startling. The trees in the 8350 picture look like they are water colored compared to the 8700.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...00ub/image.php


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19552434
> 
> 
> Now I have made the mistake of watching the ProjectorPeople comparison of the 85D, 8350 and 8700 UB. The 8700 UB just blows the 8350 away!



Not sure how you came to that conclusion. From the youtube video, they look pretty much the same to me. Are you happy with the 8350 image? I sure am. Think of what else you could buy with $1000 to enhance your movie watching experience? Better speakers? A better screen? Money better spent.


----------



## snoopy555

u are 100% right,look the same to me 8350 and 8700.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19552434
> 
> 
> Now I have made the mistake of watching the ProjectorPeople comparison of the 85D, 8350 and 8700 UB. The 8700 UB just blows the 8350 away! Now I am having semi-buyers remorse. Trying to convince my wife "It is $1,000 more, but it comes with a free bulb!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr1lv...eature=related
> 
> 
> I also read their online review - there were definitely artifacts showing up in the 8350 compared to other sets...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snoopy555* /forum/post/19552892
> 
> 
> u are 100% right,look the same to me 8350 and 8700.





first time when i watched i didn't see huge difference... so thats what i notice later...

http://store.picbg.net/pubpic/06/37/...fdfcbc0637.jpg 
http://store.picbg.net/pubpic/7A/48/...9807bd7a48.jpg 
http://store.picbg.net/pubpic/DE/7F/...7887ddde7f.jpg - compare the monitors front of her


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19552478
> 
> 
> The side by side pictures of the train in this review of the 8700 vs 8350 are startling. The trees in the 8350 picture look like they are water colored compared to the 8700.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...00ub/image.php



I love the red hot spotting in the lower right and upper left in the Space Cowboys satellite comparison.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hgroff* /forum/post/19552283
> 
> 
> Pulled the trigger on Epson 8350 with Projectorpeople for $1099 shipping free. Wondering how long it will take to arrive?
> 
> 
> Does anyone want to share calibration settings?
> 
> 
> is avia for blu ray available? Saw a posting for wow calibration, does it work well?



Use the Cinema settings. I left the Gamma at default but your taste my be different.

This should get you a good starting point.


Also, if you are using a blu-ray player, set the output for 24hz.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## bartine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19553066
> 
> 
> I love the red hot spotting in the lower right and upper left in the Space Cowboys satellite comparison.



That shot was also very telling. The red haze, the difference in the number of stars in the two pictures, the gray star background of the 8350. The 8350 is by far the worst projector in the comparisons.


Then look at the trees in the train scene -


And - In the video, you see a huge difference when you pause the video - the difference in clarity between the two projectors is startling.


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* /forum/post/19548001
> 
> 
> I would like to share what I have learned so far regarding placement and throw distance. From a review I read at projectorcental.com, ideally the distance to the screen should be so the projector lens is near mid-point in its zoom range. Using either extreme of the zoom range leads to either lower light output (39% at telephoto, smallest image) or focus quality (at wide angle). I think you can use the majority of the 2.1:1 zoom range and be fine, just stay away from the boundaries. See Limitations in the review.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm
> 
> 
> Here a couple of useful links for calculating throw distances. The Epson link also calculates the shift offsets, pretty neat. Spend some time using these calculators. Be sure to select the projector model before using them.
> 
> 
> http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/
> 
> http://www.htdepot.com/Projector_scr...s/49.htm#three



How much quality do I lose when I have the zoom opened up all the way to produce the biggest image? I am at 12' away from my screen and my screen is 117" so I had to open the ring up all the way to get it to fill the screen.


I would go farther back and zoom in a little to get to the midpoint "sweet spot" but I am at the wall :\\


When projecting a word document the text looks pretty sharp and not really out of focus at all?


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19553328
> 
> 
> That shot was also very telling. The red haze, the difference in the number of stars in the two pictures, the gray star background of the 8350. The 8350 is by far the worst projector in the comparisons.
> 
> 
> Then look at the trees in the train scene -
> 
> 
> And - In the video, you see a huge difference when you pause the video - the difference in clarity between the two projectors is startling.



How is it the worst? In the first screen comparison, the 8700 has more of the red haze and the 8350 doesn't look nearly as gray as a couple of the other projectors. However, you can definitely tell the difference in the starship screenshot and the 8350 does look the worst in that. Or maybe I'm just looking at these wrong...


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bartine* /forum/post/19553328
> 
> 
> That shot was also very telling. The red haze, the difference in the number of stars in the two pictures, the gray star background of the 8350. The 8350 is by far the worst projector in the comparisons.
> 
> 
> Then look at the trees in the train scene -
> 
> 
> And - In the video, you see a huge difference when you pause the video - the difference in clarity between the two projectors is startling.



Take a look at those screen caps again.

The red haze is Not the 8350. It's the first one.


----------



## msbklipsch

what settings are others using out there. using component (RGB) for input

tried the recommended setting found at another site that reviewed the 8350

thought the red still looked strong

so please post your RGB settings that you have come up with

also other settings that are important

thanks


----------



## fraisa

Hey Mississip,,,

Still waiting to see your pic


----------



## bartine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19554466
> 
> 
> Take a look at those screen caps again.
> 
> The red haze is Not the 8350. It's the first one.




Please don't take my posts wrong - I am not trying to bash the 8350. I am sitting right now looking at my un-opened 8350 box trying to decide if I should open it or take it back, and was getting very concerned reading about "red hazing" and then seeing poor screen shots in comparisons.


=============================


Now I am confused. It does seem that the first screenshot is the 8700 and the second screen shot is the 8350. If so - the 8350 appears way better than the 8700, which goes directly against every bit of text in the review.


Hmmm...


I'm going to go through this blog page by page and look at some of the screenshots and setups. I really don't want to put out another $1k for the 8700 vs the 8350.


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19554466
> 
> 
> Take a look at those screen caps again.
> 
> The red haze is Not the 8350. It's the first one.



See, that's why I was saying there wasn't anything that wrong...that's the 8700. The second one is the same picture used in the 8350 review so it can't possibly be the 8700.


Maybe I'm mixing things up...

The red hot spotting in the lower right and upper left in the Space Cowboys satellite is on the 8700 screen shot, below that screen is the 8350 which has the hot spotting in opposite corners. Is the red haze bartine is talking about the same as the red hot spotting? And this is only because of the overexposure right?


EDIT: Just read your newest post bartine. I'm pretty sure the "faults" in the comparisons are just due to the purposeful overexposure. I believe those shots are supposed to show some details in shadows and blacks or whatnot. I'm sure the 8700 is better in terms of PQ but it's also more expensive than the 8350.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19554659
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just read your newest post bartine. I'm pretty sure the "faults" in the comparisons are just due to the purposeful overexposure. I believe those shots are supposed to show some details in shadows and blacks or whatnot. I'm sure the 8700 is better in terms of PQ but it's also more expensive than the 8350.



The red haze "phenomenon" appears to be an Epson product issue.

*Other manufacturers may have this issue as well.


Read some of the posts in the thread below.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19513302 


.


----------



## fraisa

One way to help with red haze is by reducing red Push...

That AVAI II DVD goes into detail on how to reduce Red Push..

.........

Epson 9700 Ub

Screen SI Black Diamond .8 Gain

Popcorn Hour C-200

Last Airbender BluRay Disc


----------



## MississippiMan

Guys....,


The Red Haze is something that will lessen/dissipate in time as the PJ "Burns in" (about 50-100 hrs run time)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19554575
> 
> 
> Hey Mississip,,,
> 
> Still waiting to see your pic



Just back in town from a T-Day trip to Boulder, CO.


Keep watching.


----------



## nomad139

Boulder is a beautiful town!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nomad139* /forum/post/19555785
> 
> 
> Boulder is a beautiful town!



Yes indeed.


Below are some images of a recently completed Theater Room w/ 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 on Sintra @ approx 1.3 gain being graced by the services of a 8350


First are two images of the Screen/Room/degree of ambient / directed lighting present during most of the following shots. The Room has Floods almost directly above the screen, and a White Drop ceiling extremely close to the Screen as well. Hardly ideal, yet the 8350 / screen combo handles it all.


FYI...all shots are "moving" images...no paused set-ups










*Under Flash*










*Very High Ambient Light w/Flood*

















*

Dark room shots*

















*

Side Shots at 80 degrees off axis*


----------



## tokyo23ku

Hi,


Unit is great, but no driver for Mac's. I have watched on my old AX100 for years, but cannot get anything to work here. Any suggestions? Anyone using the 8100 drivers on an iMac?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey guys im having buyers remorse. I only paid $936 for the hc8350 but i really want a 1080p or a really good 720p 3D projector and i feel like if i wait a little while they will have some at a reasonable price and i can save the money from this one to put on a 3D one. Plus my hc720 is a great projector and i love it. Not trying to start a poll or anything but does anyone else think this way too. There have been several post on this thread recently about how the hc8350 stacks up against other Epson 1080p and other 1080p projectors but what about waiting for a 3d projector that stacks up to the hc8350.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So I'm waiting patiently now for this to come in. Few noob questions.


How do you set the size of the screen? Does it tell you the exact size of the screen, or do you pull it back/zoom in to change the size?


Also I'm just about to start building my screen. What are the dimensions of a 120" screen?


----------



## fraisa




MississippiMan said:


> Yes indeed.
> 
> 
> Below are some images of a recently completed Theater Room w/ 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 on Sintra @ approx 1.3 gain being graced by the services of a 8350
> 
> 
> First are two images of the Screen/Room/degree of ambient / directed lighting present during most of the following shots. The Room has Floods almost directly above the screen, and a White Drop ceiling extremely close to the Screen as well. Hardly ideal, yet the 8350 / screen combo handles it all.
> 
> 
> FYI...all shots are "moving" images...no paused set-ups
> 
> 
> Miss those shots are very good...
> 
> 
> Is this the screen Paint?


----------



## sgtdejavu

I bought my 8350 a week ago and originally set it on a table top. I finally got it mounted on the ceiling yesterday. The ceiling is white and the PR is about 6" below the ceiling, 15 ft from the screen, 100" diag. image. I watched the Wolfman BD (has a lot of dark scenes) before and after moving the PR to the ceiling and I 'think' the black levels are not as quiet as good on the ceiling as they were the night before. I suspect this might be due to the extra light bouncing from the ceiling. Anyone else noticed this effect?


BTW, the screen is a piece of blackout fabric (smooth side out) stapled to the wall where my actual screen will go once I figure out what screen I will go with.


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19555736
> 
> 
> Guys....,
> 
> 
> The Red Haze is something that will lessen/dissipate in time as the PJ "Burns in" (about 50-100 hrs run time)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just back in town from a T-Day trip to Boulder, CO.
> 
> 
> Keep watching.



That must be the burning smell when I run this PJ.


----------



## scotty562

I bought mine yesterday from hhgregg for just under $900 including tax. I set it up and man... this is the most beautiful picture I've ever seen. This is my first projector. I want to thank everyone in this thread!


----------



## msbklipsch

how does one enable the Super White

see it on the menu but it is shaded and cannot be accessed

using component RGB for input


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought my 8350 a week ago and originally set it on a table top. I finally got it mounted on the ceiling yesterday. The ceiling is white and the PR is about 6" below the ceiling, 15 ft from the screen, 100" diag. image. I watched the Wolfman BD (has a lot of dark scenes) before and after moving the PR to the ceiling and I 'think' the black levels are not as quiet as good on the ceiling as they were the night before. I suspect this might be due to the extra light bouncing from the ceiling. Anyone else noticed this effect?
> 
> 
> BTW, the screen is a piece of blackout fabric (smooth side out) stapled to the wall where my actual screen will go once I figure out what screen I will go with.



I painted my ceiling flat black and the wall where my screen is hung to combat any light that may bounce off of it. Works and looks great.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19556205
> 
> 
> Yes indeed.
> 
> 
> Below are some images of a recently completed Theater Room w/ 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 on Sintra @ approx 1.3 gain being graced by the services of a 8350
> 
> 
> First are two images of the Screen/Room/degree of ambient / directed lighting present during most of the following shots. The Room has Floods almost directly above the screen, and a White Drop ceiling extremely close to the Screen as well. Hardly ideal, yet the 8350 / screen combo handles it all.
> 
> 
> FYI...all shots are "moving" images...no paused set-ups
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Under Flash*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Very High Ambient Light w/Flood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Dark room shots*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Side Shots at 80 degrees off axis*



Those pics look really nice. Makes me consider this silver fire mix even more. Looks like a good complement to this very bright PJ!!


Thanx for sharing M-Man!


----------



## expertmech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19556205
> 
> 
> Yes indeed.
> 
> 
> Below are some images of a recently completed Theater Room w/ 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 on Sintra @ approx 1.3 gain being graced by the services of a 8350




Wow.. Great shots. That's certainly not the 16'' from the ceiling you told me.


I should be pretty good then with flat black ceiling.



Can I get all the measurements of that room?


Thanks!!!!!



* ALSO.... The High Ambient light shots look pretty good and I may be in that mode a lot watching Football...


Isn't the Maxmudd better for ambient?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19556556
> 
> 
> 
> Miss those shots are very good...
> 
> 
> Is this the screen Paint?



Yes Sir.


Silver Fire 3.0 sprayed on by another Denver-based AVS'ers. I was graciously invited into their home to see the end results, so naturally I had my trusty little Canon Power Shot SD770 in hand.


There wasn't enough time on the clock to do a decent pictorial because I was also being treated to this Monster;


The "Mile High" Burger.











All in all, a good time, good company, and the chance to see another member's effort come to successful fruition.

Had a bit of a scare though. Having taken my Camera out to shoot that Critter above, due to 2 large Micros, I got up and left it at the Table when I departed. The Table was Bussed immediately...and only 10 minutes later when I called, they said, "We never saw nuthin'." I was PO'd! That ain't a'gonna happen! Spoke to the Manager...railed about the improbability of it all since no one was sitting near us, and waddya know...he calls back and said "someone" brought the Camera up to the Receptionist Desk.


Hmmmmm....? Well I forgave 'em. Not so much myself though. ;(





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *expertmech* /forum/post/19557137
> 
> 
> Wow.. Great shots. That's certainly not the 16'' from the ceiling you told me.
> 
> 
> I should be pretty good then with flat black ceiling.



Absolutely. The Silver Fire did considerable toward mitigating the effect the reflections off that close-in a white Drop Ceiling delivered. It would have been all the "mo Bedder" had the ceiling been a darker shade of "Flat Something".




> Quote:
> * ALSO.... The High Ambient light shots look pretty good and I may be in that mode a lot watching Football...
> 
> 
> Isn't the Maxmudd better for ambient?



No...Silver Fire is better, and can be adjusted to be about as dark a Gray shade as needed.


BTW, I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure the 8350 being used in those shots was NOT in Torch mode.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msbklipsch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how does one enable the Super White
> 
> see it on the menu but it is shaded and cannot be accessed
> 
> using component RGB for input



Its not available in dynamic or living room mode.


----------



## jakejj

I have an 8350 that is a week old with approximately 19 hours on the lamp. I went to fire it up last night and there was an error message being displayed on the screen indicating that there is a problem with the Auto Iris and to turn off the projector and call your Epson Dealer/ Service Center. Has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jakejj* /forum/post/19557555
> 
> 
> I have an 8350 that is a week old with approximately 19 hours on the lamp. I went to fire it up last night and there was an error message being displayed on the screen indicating that there is a problem with the Auto Iris and to turn off the projector and call your Epson Dealer/ Service Center. Has anyone else had this issue?



Get a replacement ASAP.


----------



## vik_tx

I have an issue with this projector.. I am unable to correctly focus the image on the screen.. it appears that I can focus two sides (left and top) but the right seems to be always cut off. The lower right side of the image is about 2 inches shorter as from the top. I can't figure out if this is a projector problem, or a placement issue -- but, I am have tried all weekend and cannot focus this correctly. Pls help!!


----------



## emf

*Move projector slightly towards left*


You mentioned right side seemed shorter. Very likely the projector has been installed a few inches more towards the right. Move it a few inches towards the left and the left side will shorten and even out.


----------



## Rudmeister

Also no matter where you mount it, it must always be perpindicular to the screen. If you mount it to the side do not turn the projector toward the screen, point it straight ahead and use lens shift to move it where you need it.


----------



## daytonoh

Just got my 8350 and am loving it! I paid the full 1299 price at BB because I have no patience and HHG at 20% off was out of stock. BB dropped it to 1199 so I should at least get that back if I can't get a PM. Problem is that they want an 'advertised price' and I can't find it except in the store. If anyone knows where I might find it at, it would be greatly appreciated.


I was wondering if there are any 'must change' settings. Auto iris, eco mode, super white etc.. ? Sorry if this has already been brought up but 58 pages is a lot of reading. I've only got about 10hrs on it so from what I understand I should wait to calibrate. I am currently running cinema mode, eco off, auto iris normal in a very well light controlled room. Thanks for any tips you might have.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daytonoh* /forum/post/19559037
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 and am loving it! I paid the full 1299 price at BB because I have no patience and HHG at 20% off was out of stock. BB dropped it to 1199 so I should at least get that back if I can't get a PM. Problem is that they want an 'advertised price' and I can't find it except in the store. If anyone knows where I might find it at, it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there are any 'must change' settings. Auto iris, eco mode, super white etc.. ? Sorry if this has already been brought up but 58 pages is a lot of reading. I've only got about 10hrs on it so from what I understand I should wait to calibrate. I am currently running cinema mode, eco off, auto iris normal in a very well light controlled room. Thanks for any tips you might have.



1. The iris settings is more of a personal preference so if you like it on, leave it on.


2. Turn on the Super White if you are using the HDMI connection.

3. I use normal lamp mode because eco is a little dim for me even in a light controlled room.


Use the Cinema settings. I left the Gamma at default but your taste my be different.

This should get you a good starting point.


Also, if you are using a blu-ray player, set the output for 1080p @ 24hz.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emf* /forum/post/19558814
> 
> *Move projector slightly towards left*
> 
> 
> You mentioned right side seemed shorter. Very likely the projector has been installed a few inches more towards the right. Move it a few inches towards the left and the left side will shorten and even out.



"Move" in this case relates to "Twist the PJ until it is as stated below "perpendicular" or the Lens is "Flat" and on the same horizontal plane as the wall.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rudmeister* /forum/post/19558991
> 
> 
> Also no matter where you mount it, it must always be perpendicular to the screen. If you mount it to the side do not turn the projector toward the screen, point it straight ahead and use lens shift to move it where you need it.




That should do it.


----------



## RTO69

Got mine up and running Saturday afternoon. Was going from a Optoma HD70 so was expecting a large change to this new projector. First thoughts were, wow, the picture was great. Then spent some time with it and a couple comments:

1) DISH HD is good, not great.







Will get better as the projector breaks in.

2) Standard Def stuff is almost unwatchable.





















Was watch this MN WILD get their butts kicked by Denver and did not have the HD feed at first. Horrible picture. Was using default settings and played with a bunch of changes, had no luck getting better. Midway through the game, the HD feed came in and the picture was again good.

3) Blue Ray, WOW...







good improvement from what I had and what I expected when I purchased.


I have noticed this projector has a lot of "red" intensity in it. I have adjusted and adjusted but have not been able to reduce. Hope it will reduce once it hits the 50-100 hour mark.


No red haze, yet.... Convergence off slightly.. 1-2 clicks...


I am shooting from 15 feet, 120" screen, painted wall right now, screen showing up on Monday. Completely light controlled room. Ceiling mounted. 20 foot HDMI cable. Running everything through Denon 3808CI receiver. Pass through on the processor of the receiver..


So, will update as I get more hours. Any ideas on the "red" would be great and if anyone wants to share calibration setting on their projector, I would be interested.


I ordered a mount from ebay. I loved it and it was very, very easy to set up and adjust. Price was around $50 to the house. Search "Ceiling Mount for EPSON PowerLite Home Cinema 8350", kramerica_incorporated is the seller...


Time for Sunday night football!!!


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jakejj* /forum/post/19557555
> 
> 
> I have an 8350 that is a week old with approximately 19 hours on the lamp. I went to fire it up last night and there was an error message being displayed on the screen indicating that there is a problem with the Auto Iris and to turn off the projector and call your Epson Dealer/ Service Center. Has anyone else had this issue?



Happened to me once with about 30 hours on the clock. I unplugged / plugged in, and hasn't occurred again.


edit-

If it happens again, I'll call. Otherwise, this makes me feel good about the 2 year warranty. I'm not going to jump the gun for one snafu.


John F


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

Sorry to ask this again, but (noob question), do you pick the size of the screen? Like will it tell you how big the screen is, or do you have to measure? Also how do you go about adjusting the actual size of the screen... how far would it have to be to be 120"? I have about 25 feet to work with.


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19560122
> 
> 
> Sorry to ask this again, but (noob question), do you pick the size of the screen? Like will it tell you how big the screen is, or do you have to measure? Also how do you go about adjusting the actual size of the screen... how far would it have to be to be 120"? I have about 25 feet to work with.



Page 56 of this thread, Post #1665 has the calculators that will help answer your questions. I could not figure out how to link or do the dual quote, sorry.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19560172
> 
> 
> Page 56 of this thread, Post #1665 has the calculators that will help answer your questions. I could not figure out how to link or do the dual quote, sorry.



Thanks man! Trying to figure out how to use them haha, but this will be very useful.


----------



## Rudmeister

Does using lens shift degrade the picture in any way? I am getting a 120" screen and min throw distance is 11'9". If I mount it dead center it will be around 12' but if I move it left or right about 2' I can get around 14' throw. I know the sweet spot is around 18' but that's not possible for me.


----------



## nobuyersremorse

I am having so much trouble with this... I have high ambient light during the day, (football). I will be doing a 120" screen from a 16' throw. My initial plan was to get a da lite hp screen but have decided I want a fixed screen with trim. That hp screen is 3 times what I was planning on spending. Will I be ok getting an elite cinewhite screen in my situation or should I wait and save up for the da lite hp screen?


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nobuyersremorse* /forum/post/19560373
> 
> 
> I am having so much trouble with this... I have high ambient light during the day, (football). I will be doing a 120" screen from a 16' throw. My initial plan was to get a da lite hp screen but have decided I want a fixed screen with trim. That hp screen is 3 times what I was planning on spending. Will I be ok getting an elite cinewhite screen in my situation or should I wait and save up for the da lite hp screen?



I'm new to all of this too... but did you consider a DIY? It saves a ton of money.


edit- Also yet another noob question


I bought a reciever that doesn't have HDMI upconversion. I'm ok with that, because in time I will upgrade that, a few questions though.


1. Now for my component, do I plug that first into the reciever, and then I plug the other components into the out and plug that into the projector?


and


2. I've heard about HDMI upconverters... could anybody link me to those, and tell me how they work?


----------



## expertmech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19557228
> 
> 
> Yes Sir.
> 
> 
> Absolutely. The Silver Fire did considerable toward mitigating the effect the reflections off that close-in a white Drop Ceiling delivered. It would have been all the "mo Bedder" had the ceiling been a darker shade of "Flat Something".
> 
> 
> No...Silver Fire is better, and can be adjusted to be about as dark a Gray shade as needed.
> 
> 
> BTW, I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure the 8350 being used in those shots was NOT in Torch mode.




Hmmmm, Should I be considering Silver over Max?


Again 82'' ceiling... 11ft screen wall 12 ft back w/ 12 ft mount


Mostly sports with some light. Dark colors all around. Light controlled.


Probably 96'' screen or so. Might go to 92'' if it looks too big or I feel like I need more top clearance.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emf* /forum/post/19558814
> 
> *Move projector slightly towards left*
> 
> 
> You mentioned right side seemed shorter. Very likely the projector has been installed a few inches more towards the right. Move it a few inches towards the left and the left side will shorten and even out.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rudmeister* /forum/post/19558991
> 
> 
> Also no matter where you mount it, it must always be perpindicular to the screen. If you mount it to the side do not turn the projector toward the screen, point it straight ahead and use lens shift to move it where you need it.



Thanks for your responses. The projector is positioned perpendicularly to the wall.. It was mounted on the ceiling and worked fine few days ago.. Right now, I have removed from the mount and placed it on the floor aimed at the screen.. still the same problem. It appears that the image is being cut off as well at an angle; could there be an issue with the lens system?


----------



## Favelle

Is there a simple/quick method to guarantee that you've mounted the projector EXACTLY perpendicular to the wall?


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19556205



OMG, this dude has NO chin!


----------



## tiggermanh

I'm in the middle of my basement remodel and building out a theater room. I am not ready for the projector, but decided to take advantage of the PP sale.


I spent countless hours reading reviews and almost all 58 pages here and pulled the trigger. Knowing it is on its way has given me more motivation to complete the theater.


I am looking at going with a 100-110" screen with the projector approximately 13' away. Ambient light in the room is completely controlled, so I believe this projector will be a perfect fit.


It will mainly be used for watching blu-ray movies, streaming netflix and HD sports feeds.


Estimated theater completion, Dec 23rd, when extended family comes for a visit.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19560685
> 
> 
> Thanks for your responses. The projector is positioned perpendicularly to the wall.. It was mounted on the ceiling and worked fine few days ago.. Right now, I have removed from the mount and placed it on the floor aimed at the screen.. still the same problem. It appears that the image is being cut off as well at an angle; could there be an issue with the lens system?



Could you have activated a keystone control?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiggermanh* /forum/post/19560822
> 
> 
> 
> Estimated theater completion, Dec 23rd, when extended family comes for a visit.




Good luck! I'm glad you didn't specify the year - wise move!


----------



## fraisa

Hey Miss wanted to show you some pics from the grey cup


Pics from the Far Side viewing Angle with Ambient Light...

Full motion not stilled paused shots


















Straight center pic


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19560709
> 
> 
> Is there a simple/quick method to guarantee that you've mounted the projector EXACTLY perpendicular to the wall?



Not sure.. but I have tried multiple positions in the past 2 days.. it was on the ceiling.. then I took it down on the floor.. tried multiple times to position it.. however, the image is always skewed on the right..i am able to angle the top and the left sides to match the screen borders; but the right is always the issue. I am attaching a few picts to better explain this issue.


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19560829
> 
> 
> Could you have activated a keystone control?



what is keystone control.. i do not see it on the menu options


----------



## pinkfreud55

Is your screen wall flat?


----------



## vik_tx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinkfreud55* /forum/post/19560907
> 
> 
> Is your screen wall flat?



yes.. even checked with a water level


----------



## wickedg8gt

I see people on here talk about 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 and setting it for blu-ray. But i dont see that setting on my ps3. What exactly is that.


----------



## sanychsamara

So what calibration settings would you recommend for gaming in daylight conditions?


----------



## Chad T




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19561050
> 
> 
> I see people on here talk about 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 and setting it for blu-ray. But i dont see that setting on my ps3. What exactly is that.



I'm not the most well versed on this, but I'll take a stab at it. Most film is recorded at 24 frames per second. When viewing 1080p/60, there are 60 frames per second. To get 24 frames into 60 frames, "3:2 pulldown" happens where there are a cadence of 3 of one frame, 2 of the next frame, 3 of the next frame, and on and on. With 1080p/24, the projector is able to display the 24 frames per second (or a multiple of that) and deliver a more natural picture because it doesn't have to implement 3:2 pulldown.


With that said, how does the 8350 do with 1080p/24?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad T* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not the most well versed on this, but I'll take a stab at it. Most film is recorded at 24 frames per second. When viewing 1080p/60, there are 60 frames per second. To get 24 frames into 60 frames, "3:2 pulldown" happens where there are a cadence of 3 of one frame, 2 of the next frame, 3 of the next frame, and on and on. With 1080p/24, the projector is able to display the 24 frames per second (or a multiple of that) and deliver a more natural picture because it doesn't have to implement 3:2 pulldown.
> 
> 
> With that said, how does the 8350 do with 1080p/24?



Exactly. The 8350 supports 2-2 pulldown which accepts the 24hz, doubles it to 48. This is visible in the menu. Also I posted some screens a few pages back.


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19560709
> 
> 
> Is there a simple/quick method to guarantee that you've mounted the projector EXACTLY perpendicular to the wall?



This is how I did it. The built-in pattern generator displays a box with cross-hair and circle in the middle. When the PJ is perpendicular to the wall/screen in both the vertical and horizontal plane, the box should be displayed as a perfect rectangle.


Vertical alignment: Measure to see if your screen is vertical using an accurate bubble level, use the same level to check the PJ's front-back levelness by placing the level on top of the PJ orienting the level front-to-back on the PJ. Double-check using the built-in test pattern: use a tape measure to measure (horizontally) the width of the box at the top of the pattern and then at the bottom of the pattern. If the projector is perpendicular to the screen the measurements across the top and bottom should be the same.


Horizontal: Use the built-in test pattern: use a tape measure to measure vertically the size of the box at the right side of the pattern and then at the left side of the pattern. If the projector is perpendicular to the screen in the horizontal plane, the vertical measurements on the left and right side should be the same. Rotate the PJ left or right as needed to correct.


Of course, this assumes the lense-shift is accurate. I have both vertical and horizontal lense shift and the image looks sharp to me.


I should mention, I do not have a screen, I am using black-out fabric for now. If you have a screen with borders then that should make it easy to see if the box is rectangular.


----------



## ChiefJC

That's what I did as well. I know the thing I missed at fist was if the projector was twisted off center a little left or right. That's what was causing my center box to Be a little off. Make sure you measure from top left and right of screen to your lens.


Mine was perfect except bottom right corner, which was about 2 inches lower. After measured, I found out that the distance from the lens was a little different in my instance I needed to rotate the pj about a quarter inch, to even up those numbers.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vik_tx* /forum/post/19560880
> 
> 
> what is keystone control.. i do not see it on the menu options



Never mind - I have found no evidence that this is adjustable in the 8350.


----------



## bartine

After reading through around 50 pages of this thread, I opened my box and installed my new Epson 8350.


I have a dedicated theater room with no windows. I run my signal through an Onkyo SR805 receiver. I have a 135" diagonal screen, with the projector in a built in box in the back wall. The front of the box is 13 feet from the screen, back is 15.5 feet.


I am replacing a JVC G15. The 8350 is small and light compared to that beast.


The Colts / Chargers game and the original Star Wars series was on in HD. I watched some of "A New Hope" and "The Empire Strikes Back" as I set things up. I had everything hooked up to component for the G15, so had to get all DirecTV receiver and Sony Blue Ray hooked up via HDMI.


The difference between the two was really something.


The 8350 had no problem with the 135" screen. There was actually plenty of zoom left, and focus was great all the way into the corners. I used Art's suggested settings while watching Darth Vader and dark space scenes. You can see the subtle changes to black levels as each setting is made.


I had the JVC G15 ceiling mounted in the projector box, but used "shelf mounting" for the 8350, and the shift feature.


After setup, I switched to Blue Ray and watched Iron Man II in 24P.


I could see no screen stuttering in even the biggest action scenes. Plenty of night shots that looked great.


So - in summary - I couldn't be happier. The 8350 will be a mainstay for a long time.


1. Perfect fit for my 135" screen

2. Shelf mounting in my projector box saved $100 for a ceiling mount

3. Pictures are fantastic with no problems with screen stuttering or artifacts even in the most active scenes


I had bought this through HHGreg with a 5 year warranty. I'm going to get my money back on the warranty ($400) - bought it with my Amex so I get a 3rd year of warranty free anyway.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19560839
> 
> 
> Hey Miss wanted to show you some pics from the grey cup
> 
> 
> Pics from the Far Side viewing Angle with Ambient Light...
> 
> Full motion not stilled paused shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight center pic



*fraisa
*

what are you doing? why do you posting same images to the both threads ( Epson 8700 )? For which Pj are these screens? you are not saying... you post them here and then in 8700UB thread.... what are you trying to do?


you are posting -

Screens for Epson 8350:
DSCI0927.jpg size file: 171.59 KB
DSCI0954.jpg size file: 168.59 KB
DSCI0965.jpg size file: 140.38 KB


and then
Screens for Epson 8700UB :
DSCI0927.jpg size file: 171.59 KB
DSCI0954.jpg size file: 168.59 KB
DSCI0965.jpg size file: 140.38 KB


----------



## fraisa

Mississipi showed me his screen shots from the other day

i was just doing the Same....


Shots are from the 9700 unit which is virtually a 8700

I have mentioned in the past pages which screen i have

so didnt think to do it again


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> some dont look at the other threads...
> 
> 
> Mississipi showed me his screen shots from the other day
> 
> i was just doing the Same....



So are those 8350 screens or 8700?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19561835
> 
> 
> So are those 8350 screens or 8700?



9700 UB

Twin to the 8700ub

9700 and 8700 are virtually the same units


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19561816
> 
> 
> some dont look at the other threads...
> 
> 
> Mississipi showed me his screen shots from the other day
> 
> i was just doing the Same....



Please writing for which pj are the screens when you post them because the people in 8700UB thread may think the screens are for 8700...



anyway i suppose its a 8350 and it looks gorgeous! THanks










edit: oh its 9700


ok then...


----------



## ChiefJC

Gotcha, looks good.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19561050
> 
> 
> I see people on here talk about 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 and setting it for blu-ray. But i dont see that setting on my ps3. What exactly is that.




Check the PS3 player forum and post a ? on how to enabled 24hz output.

The projector will auto sync with the PS3 once the change has been made.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. The 8350 supports 2-2 pulldown which accepts the 24hz, doubles it to 48. This is visible in the menu. Also I posted some screens a few pages back.



Hey I also noticed on your screen shot it said 12bit. Mine doesn't have anything there. What are you running and how did you get that enabled? Thanks!


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19561995
> 
> 
> Check the PS3 player forum and post a ? on how to enabled 24hz output.
> 
> The projector will auto sync with the PS3 once the change has been made.



Click on the link. I think its half way down the page where it says Video Settings: BD 1080p 24 Hz Output (HDMI). I haven't checked myself yet.


http://manuals.playstation.net/docum...dsettings.html


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19560810
> 
> 
> OMG, this dude has NO chin!













Actually....I count no less than 3


----------



## mekkerl

I'm interested in this projector...would be my first one.

Is this a good package from PP?

http://www.projectorpeople.com/proje...p?itemid=23867 


Or should I go projector alone from HGG, BB, or PP...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19562305
> 
> 
> I'm interested in this projector...would be my first one.
> 
> Is this a good package from PP?
> 
> http://www.projectorpeople.com/proje...p?itemid=23867
> 
> 
> Or should I go projector alone from HGG, BB, or PP...



I would go alone...


----------



## the-pred

How else can Canadians get screwed. Projector People cannot ship Epson projectors to Canada. What other reason would there be other then force Canadians to pay inflated Canadian prices.


----------



## d_m1010

I bought my Epson 8500 from Electronics for less (or SonicBoom which sell SVS- same company) out of Toronto. They carry Epson but cannot advertise it due to some agreement Epson has with HD.ca, who also carries them.


----------



## the-pred

Trouble is Canadian distributers want $1399 for the projector and ProjectorPeople want $1099. Same projector. Am I missing something?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19545831
> 
> 
> For anyone who has purchased the 8350 Projector and is looking for a good Calibration disc that will help you get the most out of this unit
> 
> I recommend AVIA II Cali Disc...
> 
> This is a DVD Tutorial that walks you thru adjustments to Video and Audio for your System
> 
> It will help you adjust for Brightness, Contrast,
> 
> Lets you aware of Red Push and how to adjust it back..
> 
> ALso has a tone of Extra Video Calibration tools that can turn this 8350 into a Gold Standard Projector...
> 
> I have it and it takes the adjusting to another level .....
> 
> http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/




Would you mind posting your settings? Thanks!


----------



## fraisa

That projector 8350 is more expensive in Canada ...

Bottom Line

That is epson

Even if you buy it for 1099 in usa

and get it shipped to a PO Box or address in a border city

you are going to have to pay Tax and Duty

Duty cause its not manufactored in north america..

thats around a extra 250$ for tax and duty


and alot of extra work ...


When I am quoting a home theater room and some one is price , price , price

i wont take the job ,

he can go some where else and buy a unit ,,,

Go to BB or Future shop where people dont a any knowledge and get it there


When i sell a 8350 i also set up the unit per there room

Calibrate in the contrast , brightness , and reduce red push

and i do it at no extra cost to the customer


I am a Dealer located just outside of Sarnia Ont...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19562744
> 
> 
> Would you mind posting your settings? Thanks!



Sure i can

but keep in mind Everyroom is totally different

whats good for my room may not be good for yours


what are you looking for Movies or Sports?


----------



## the-pred

fraisa, it is my understanding that the is no duty on projectors since they don't contain a TV tuner. I would have to pay tax either way so that is a wash. As an installer you would think it would frusterate you that people see US prices and you can't explain why yours is so much more expensive.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19562827
> 
> 
> fraisa, it is my understanding that the is no duty on projectors since they don't contain a TV tuner. I would have to pay tax either way so that is a wash. As an installer you would think it would frusterate you that people see US prices and you can't explain why yours is so much more expensive.



Yes it does and doesnt

My customers come to me for a reason and its not based on price

its based on service and Relationship

I dont sell just a product i sell Ideas to my customers that they cant really get from a Order house..

I dont get angry at anyone who buys across the border

If someone is price driven then i totally understand....


As for Duty,,,

It all depends on the agent

I cross the border 3 times a week and the agents dictate what people pay

fyi

on friday they where pulling alot of people in making them pay coming back into canada....


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19562798
> 
> 
> Sure i can
> 
> but keep in mind Everyroom is totally different
> 
> whats good for my room may not be good for yours
> 
> 
> what are you looking for Movies or Sports?



Totally understand. I'm 95% Blu-ray in a pretty well light controlled environment. I only have about 60 hours on the lamp so I'm sure I'll be tweaking in for a while, no doubt until I upgrade again!










Also want to note an observation. I've had quite a few lcd tv's, and one of my favorite things about this pj is, once you get it looking good, pretty much every movie looks good. From my experience with flat panels every movie has to be tweaked quite a bit to look good.


Another side note/question, I have had the experience of setting up 4 of these, luckily the one I have is the sharpest I've seen (convergence wise)... over all that is. But there is one spot (about %25 of the screen) that is clearly out of focus. It's not a smudge because I can focus that corner perfectly, but then %75 of the rest of the screen is out of focus. Anyone seen this?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I also noticed on your screen shot it said 12bit. Mine doesn't have anything there. What are you running and how did you get that enabled? Thanks!



My setup is bluray player-->HDMI-->Onkyo 808 receiver-->HDMI-->Epson 8350 in HDMI 1 input.


I have my bluray set to passthrough, so my receiver does all the encoding/decoding. I don't think you can set anything in the signal menu on the PJ.


When I get home from work I'll try changing my output settings on my BR player and see if that's what dictates that 12bit mode.


If you figure it out let me know. Either here or a PM would be fine.


Cheers!


----------



## wickedg8gt

THANKS guys I see it now on my ps3 in the settings. It says i can use automatic or on but from what i read ill just turn it on and hope i get the best picture. Being new to the 1080p projector game im still trying to learn all i can hence forth being on the forum with professionals. My HC720 said refresh rate is 60 and i didnt see a pull down but the picture looked great so i hope the 24 is better. Appreciate all the help.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19563635
> 
> 
> THANKS guys I see it now on my ps3 in the settings. It says i can use automatic or on but from what i read ill just turn it on and hope i get the best picture. Being new to the 1080p projector game im still trying to learn all i can hence forth being on the forum with professionals. My HC720 said refresh rate is 60 and i didnt see a pull down but the picture looked great so i hope the 24 is better. Appreciate all the help.



Make sure to check the Info menu on the projector and the Signal detected is 24hz(23.xx) and not 60.


----------



## Ix

Just pulled the trigger on this PJ today, my first new one in 5 years. It's replacing an Optoma HD78DC3 which was at one time one of the better under 4k DLP projectors around. However I'm starting to do a lot of PC gaming on my big screen so 1080p was starting to look very appealing, plus I could really use a "light cannon" type setup - while I have a light controlled room, and watch movies that way, for gaming or sports I dislike sitting in a dark man-cave. With the Optoma I really didn't have an option but from what I've read of the 8350 I might actually be able to play games with some ambient light.


In the end I decided to stop dithering over what would be better and go for it. I was on the fence for a while looking at the AE4000U (not particularly bright, and I don't have a constant height screen) and the 8700ub (nice, but nearly a thousand dollars more).


For the price I got this at (at ProjectorPeople) during Cyber Monday I can upgrade in a couple years anyway without feeling guilty. I paid nearly $3400 for the Optoma in 2005 and that kept me from buying a new PJ for a long time.


I'll be projecting this on to my same screen, a 110' Carada Brilliant White, 1.4 gain, the throw is about 14 feet, which should be good enough I think (hope).


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19564484
> 
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on this PJ today, my first new one in 5 years. It's replacing an Optoma HD78DC3 which was at one time one of the better under 4k DLP projectors around. However I'm starting to do a lot of PC gaming on my big screen so 1080p was starting to look very appealing, plus I could really use a "light cannon" type setup - while I have a light controlled room, and watch movies that way, for gaming or sports I dislike sitting in a dark man-cave. With the Optoma I really didn't have an option but from what I've read of the 8350 I might actually be able to play games with some ambient light.
> 
> 
> In the end I decided to stop dithering over what would be better and go for it. I was on the fence for a while looking at the AE4000U (not particularly bright, and I don't have a constant height screen) and the 8700ub (nice, but nearly a thousand dollars more).
> 
> 
> For the price I got this at (at ProjectorPeople) during Cyber Monday I can upgrade in a couple years anyway without feeling guilty. I paid nearly $3400 for the Optoma in 2005 and that kept me from buying a new PJ for a long time.
> 
> 
> I'll be projecting this on to my same screen, a 110' Carada Brilliant White, 1.4 gain, the throw is about 14 feet, which should be good enough I think (hope).



Its amazing what you get in this 8350 vs a projector from 2005...

cant wait to see what happens in the next 5 yrs


----------



## buster6070

Bought this projector yesterday from BB. First projector i've purchased and must say I'm very satisfied so far. Still waiting on my screen to come in so expecting it to only get better. Just hung a sheet up infront of my entertainment center for now. I do have a question about the warranty. I know epson expanded it's warranty to cover bulbs for the full 2 years on it's 8100 model. Does anyone know if this includes the 8350 as well? Hope to get pictures up by the end of the month once everything is set up.


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buster6070* 
Bought this projector yesterday from BB. First projector i've purchased and must say I'm very satisfied so far. Still waiting on my screen to come in so expecting it to only get better. Just hung a sheet up infront of my entertainment center for now. I do have a question about the warranty. I know epson expanded it's warranty to cover bulbs for the full 2 years on it's 8100 model. Does anyone know if this includes the 8350 as well? Hope to get pictures up by the end of the month once everything is set up.
Lamp warrenty is 90 days.....

Projector is Limited 2 years....


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buster6070* 
I do have a question about the warranty. I know epson expanded it's warranty to cover bulbs for the full 2 years on it's 8100 model. Does anyone know if this includes the 8350 as well? Hope to get pictures up by the end of the month once everything is set up.
According to the posts below, the 8350 is covered under the 2 year bulb replacement. The new bulb warranty encompasses all 1080p projectors.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19366595 

http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354 


.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19565488
> 
> 
> According to the posts below, the 8350 is covered under the 2 year bulb replacement. The new bulb warranty encompasses all 1080p projectors.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19366595
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354
> 
> 
> .



Then Epson needs to update there website

because under there warrenty section on a 8350

it says other wise...


----------



## jeffreydc

Is the 8350 a much better buy than the 8700ub or is the price difference worth it? Anyone try both?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19565815
> 
> 
> Is the 8350 a much better buy than the 8700ub or is the price difference worth it? Anyone try both?



Yes Many have tested both.

AVS has sold many 8700ub

I am a dealer have tested both side by side

8700ub has better contrast, deeper blacks and also comes with a bulb voucher

also has a better warrenty...

if you got the extra cash get the 8700..

its money well spent...


that being said...

and you were going to get the 8350 ....

i would get a 9350 instead...

You get a free bulb , extra warrenty 3 years replacement,

Free Mount and a cable cover....

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...73420#warranty


----------



## Ix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19565815
> 
> 
> Is the 8350 a much better buy than the 8700ub or is the price difference worth it? Anyone try both?



Loaded question, and hard to answer at that. Depends as much on what you are looking to get out of a projector as it does the projectors themselves. Your best bet is to read the reviews here and on review sites like Projector Central then come to your own conclusion.


They are both excellent projectors. Neither one of them would be a purchase you later regretted, in all likelihood.


The 8700UB is described as having a better picture than the 8350, but that unless you saw them side by side you wouldn't notice. The major feature it adds over the 8350 is FI (Frame Interpolation). Some people love this feature for the "3D" effect it can add to images. Some people absolutely hate it and turn it off. There are other differences, but frankly they are minor in the grand scheme of things.


The 8700UB is almost $1000 more on the street but comes with a free replacement bulb ($300 value). If you have the money and plan to use it all the time, you might as well cough it up and buy that one. If you are on a budget, you'll hardly regret the 8350 as a purchase either. Up to you.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19566423
> 
> 
> Yes Many have tested both.
> 
> AVS has sold many 8700ub
> 
> I am a dealer have tested both side by side
> 
> 8700ub has better contrast, deeper blacks and also comes with a bulb voucher
> 
> also has a better warrenty...
> 
> if you got the extra cash get the 8700..
> 
> its money well spent...
> 
> 
> that being said...
> 
> and you were going to get the 8350 ....
> 
> i would get a 9350 instead...
> 
> You get a free bulb , extra warrenty 3 years replacement,
> 
> Free Mount and a cable cover....



Why? The 9350 is nearly as much as the 8700UB on the street. Just get the 8700UB if you are going to spend that much.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I turned on the 1080p/24 but now what is the 2:2 and 2:3 and 3:2 pulldown i keep reading about and is mine on or should it be on or off. I just want the BEST picture possible from the projector and my ps3. Im not a big gamer but i love movies and blu-ray. The better picture is the reason for my hc720 upgrade which is also a great projector.


----------



## hzgone

Looks like they pulled the plug right on time.


----------



## Rudmeister




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hzgone* /forum/post/19566641
> 
> 
> Looks like they pulled the plug right on time.



What the heck does that mean?


----------



## jeffreydc

I think he means the $200 sale going on ended just now. I have been agonizing on whether or not to return this 8350 and get the 8700ub and finally decided to pull the trigger but missed the sale at Projector People. Luckily Apex still had it so I made it in time. I hope it is a step up from the 8350 to make it worth the extra 600.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19566811
> 
> 
> I think he means the $200 sale going on ended just now. I have been agonizing on whether or not to return this 8350 and get the 8700ub and finally decided to pull the trigger but missed the sale at Projector People. Luckily Apex still had it so I made it in time. I hope it is a step up from the 8350 to make it worth the extra 600.



Problematical at best. You shouldn't expect your choice to be disappointing....the 8700 is too good a PJ for that to happen, but if the advantages the 8350 offers were important (Brightness, low cost) it might in the least reveal the differences.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I turned on the 1080p/24 but now what is the 2:2 and 2:3 and 3:2 pulldown i keep reading about and is mine on or should it be on or off. I just want the BEST picture possible from the projector and my ps3. Im not a big gamer but i love movies and blu-ray. The better picture is the reason for my hc720 upgrade which is also a great projector.



For 1080p/24 the 8350 supports 2-2. Which is turned on by default in your menu. As far as what they do, that's a bit off topic so I won't load up this post. In short it's the method used to display the video sources recorded FPS as naturally as possible.


If you wanna do some homework check out wiki on that. There's a ton of data talking about it on AVS as well.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think he means the $200 sale going on ended just now. I have been agonizing on whether or not to return this 8350 and get the 8700ub and finally decided to pull the trigger but missed the sale at Projector People. Luckily Apex still had it so I made it in time. I hope it is a step up from the 8350 to make it worth the extra 600.



I think you'll be more than satisfied with the 8700ub. If I would of had the additional 1000 in my budget there's no doubt I would of been choosing between the 4k and the 8700ub. And the UB is just a better overall PJ( except auto lens memory). The Blacks and shadow detail in the uncalibrated THX mode are very nice.


Enjoy your PJ!


----------



## detroit1

the 8350 is also brighter and should be better for sports; this matters since many people like watching sports on these projectors

take a look at projector review pics and you will see that when they show football in the thx or cinema, i.e best move mode, the football looks like **** and is un watchable because it is so dim, JVC is the supposed king of blacks; they look terrible on football games. even Art at Projector reviews unplugs it and hooks up his epson for watching football because the jvc is too dim.

I doubt that the 8700 is worth an extra 1K in price especially after you adjust the 8350 properly like projector central did. you will get great all around quality with the 8350 for all types of viewing; movies and football and gaming

Keep in mind also that 99% of stores that sell these are going to push people towards the 8700, 9700 because of the profit margin; there is no margin for them on the 8350

the 8350 can be bought for 1K, that is unbeatable in terms of quality of picture versus price and the dealers make almost no money on the 8350


----------



## sgtdejavu

Quote:

Originally Posted by *detroit1* 
the 8350 is also brighter and should be better for sports; this matters since many people like watching sports on these projectors

take a look at projector review pics and you will see that when they show football in the thx or cinema, i.e best move mode, the football looks like **** and is un watchable because it is so dim, JVC is the supposed king of blacks; they look terrible on football games. even Art at Projector reviews unplugs it and hooks up his epson for watching football because the jvc is too dim.

I doubt that the 8700 is worth an extra 1K in price especially after you adjust the 8350 properly like projector central did. you will get great all around quality with the 8350 for all types of viewing; movies and football and gaming

Keep in mind also that 99% of stores that sell these are going to push people towards the 8700, 9700 because of the profit margin; there is no margin for them on the 8350

the 8350 can be bought for 1K, that is unbeatable in terms of quality of picture versus price and the dealers make almost no money on the 8350
That is the same reasoning I used...I almost pulled the trigger on returning my 8350 and ordering the 8700Ub but instead I took advantage of the sale at PP and bought a killer screen instead (SI Black diamond .8). I figure the PJ is a lot easier to replace and sell later on if and when I upgrade to the next generation (or later) PJ. I love my 8350. I am sure the 8700 would look better side-by-side but I never watch TV that way


----------



## Ix

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* 
I think he means the $200 sale going on ended just now. I have been agonizing on whether or not to return this 8350 and get the 8700ub and finally decided to pull the trigger but missed the sale at Projector People. Luckily Apex still had it so I made it in time. I hope it is a step up from the 8350 to make it worth the extra 600.
Extra $900 you mean (the 8350 was on sale too). Unless they had a much bigger sales on the 8700UB than I saw.


----------



## nineset

Impatiently waiting for 1-2 months for Amazon to ship my 8350. Price was right I traded in a lot of video games and accesories ended up only paying 388 out of pocket. I wish I could have bought from Projector People because that is where I got my panasonic 200U that the 8350 is replacing and they were great to deal with as a first time buyer.


I hear Amazon has a good return policy, anyone know the details? Just in case.


----------



## jeffreydc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19568061
> 
> 
> Extra $900 you mean (the 8350 was on sale too). Unless they had a much bigger sales on the 8700UB than I saw.



No, I meant $600 when you factor in the free bulb you are only really adding that much to the price. I know I will use that extra bulb as I will be using this as my main TV as well


----------



## fjcruiser

Best Buy has them for $1199 now including delivery.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Epson+-+...=1218254499896


----------



## minertwofour

I'm tempted at Best Buy, since I have $50 in reward certs, and Premier Silver members can get another $100 home theater coupon by scheduling a free home theater consult with Geek Squad (that would definitely be a treat). If I could combine those with the standard 10-12% that seems to creep up monthly, it could be a steal for a local purchase. $100 or so in tax would be a big negative, though.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *minertwofour* /forum/post/19569684
> 
> 
> I'm tempted at Best Buy, since I have $50 in reward certs, and Premier Silver members can get another $100 home theater coupon by scheduling a free home theater consult with Geek Squad (that would definitely be a treat). If I could combine those with the standard 10-12% that seems to creep up monthly, it could be a steal for a local purchase. $100 or so in tax would be a big negative, though.



And silver members get 25 percent bonus points on every purchase...

was in BB today and also saw the 8350 on sale...

Sale ends Sat night...


----------



## fraisa

Got a New Calibration BluRay...

Disney WOW World of Wonder...

Comes with 2 Discs

Very Easy to use

Ideal for this or any Projector

Bought it on BB website

Very Very Good...

So Glad i Got it


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Disney+W...7497&st=Disney WOW&lp=1&cp=1


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19562388
> 
> 
> How else can Canadians get screwed. Projector People cannot ship Epson projectors to Canada. What other reason would there be other then force Canadians to pay inflated Canadian prices.



Others can ship there


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19566491
> 
> 
> I turned on the 1080p/24 but now what is the 2:2 and 2:3 and 3:2 pulldown i keep reading about and is mine on or should it be on or off. I just want the BEST picture possible from the projector and my ps3. Im not a big gamer but i love movies and blu-ray. The better picture is the reason for my hc720 upgrade which is also a great projector.



2:2 = every frame is repeated twice....that is you are seeing 48 frames per second (hz) instead of 24 fps. This helps with judder a little.


2:3 or 3:2 pull down means that 1 frame is repeated two times while the next one is repeated three times, this way the video processor makes a 60hz signal out of a 24hz signal.


Projector Central has an article here going more deep into the issue of 2:3 pulldown versus a 24p, and they conclude that 2:3 pulldown gives less judder than displaying a 24hz. Try both and see which you like better....I like 3:2 pulldown better in my 8350 with my PS3


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19563241
> 
> 
> My setup is bluray player-->HDMI-->Onkyo 808 receiver-->HDMI-->Epson 8350 in HDMI 1 input.
> 
> 
> I have my bluray set to passthrough, so my receiver does all the encoding/decoding. I don't think you can set anything in the signal menu on the PJ.
> 
> 
> When I get home from work I'll try changing my output settings on my BR player and see if that's what dictates that 12bit mode.
> 
> 
> If you figure it out let me know. Either here or a PM would be fine.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



12 bit mode means that the LCD panel driver is 12 bits. So you have 2^12 steps for controlling the panel. Since this uses inorganic panel technology that was used in previous Epson *UB* projectors, I believe this is part of the reason why you get better native contrast performance versus the 8100 organic panels. I have tried changing the signal coming out of my PS3 to the projector but it always says 12 bit mode.


The color processing of the projector is 10 bits though.


----------



## eliwankenobi

One thing I noticed about Epson Super White.


I thought it could not be used with a HDMI source, but I was able to do it with my PS3 through hdmi at 1080p.


I've noticed that when activation ESW makes blacks blacker and whites whiter but it crushed shadow detail a lot. I tried it with Wall*E which has lots of dark scenes. So I played more with the PS3 settings and changed the output from RGB to YPb/CbPr/Cr and enabled super white on the PS3...and yes, there was a difference!! Shadow detail was not crushed anymore!!.


I still have to play with it a little bit more though, I still have not calibrated the projector and I've been lazy to take some pictures







, but playing Bioshock 2 on this thing is so good! It really makes for an involving experience










As soon as I'm able to take some pics I'll post them here.



So users with a PS3, could you try these settings and comment if you see any difference too?


Thanks!!


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey guys I NEED HELP. Im finally really sitting down and going over all the details w my 8350 and ps3 to try and get the BEST picture possible. The first problem is on a cartoon blu-ray like Cars its perfect but when i watch a regular blu-ray with humans theres ALOT of fuzz or snow like in the background and its very noticeable. Also i have the 24hrz on with 2:2 pulldown when i watch a movie but when just the ps3 is on it goes back to 60hrz. Does anybody know what the hdmi video range and motion detection and the overscan is. If anybody has any other ps3 and hc8350 things they found for a better picture it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED or any help period. THANKS


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19571987
> 
> 
> 2:2 = every frame is repeated twice....that is you are seeing 48 frames per second (hz) instead of 24 fps. This helps with judder a little.
> 
> 
> 2:3 or 3:2 pull down means that 1 frame is repeated two times while the next one is repeated three times, this way the video processor makes a 60hz signal out of a 24hz signal.
> 
> 
> Projector Central has an article here going more deep into the issue of 2:3 pulldown versus a 24p, and they conclude that 2:3 pulldown gives less judder than displaying a 24hz. Try both and see which you like better....I like 3:2 pulldown better in my 8350 with my PS3



A good test to check judder is watch end credits that scroll up/down the screen.

With 24hz, the judder is smoother/less with my Panasonic blu-ray player.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19572279
> 
> 
> Hey guys I NEED HELP. Im finally really sitting down and going over all the details w my 8350 and ps3 to try and get the BEST picture possible. The first problem is on a cartoon blu-ray like Cars its perfect but when i watch a regular blu-ray with humans theres ALOT of fuzz or snow like in the background and its very noticeable. Also i have the 24hrz on with 2:2 pulldown when i watch a movie but when just the ps3 is on it goes back to 60hrz. Does anybody know what the hdmi r video range and motion detection and the overscan is. If anybody has any other ps3 and hc8350 things they found for a better picture it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED or any help period. THANKS



What are your projector picture settings?

Is the ps3 connected directly to the projector?

How long is your hdmi cable?

What are you ps3 picture settings?


----------



## jeffreydc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19571987
> 
> 
> 2:2 = every frame is repeated twice....that is you are seeing 48 frames per second (hz) instead of 24 fps. This helps with judder a little.
> 
> 
> 2:3 or 3:2 pull down means that 1 frame is repeated two times while the next one is repeated three times, this way the video processor makes a 60hz signal out of a 24hz signal.
> 
> 
> Projector Central has an article here going more deep into the issue of 2:3 pulldown versus a 24p, and they conclude that 2:3 pulldown gives less judder than displaying a 24hz. Try both and see which you like better....I like 3:2 pulldown better in my 8350 with my PS3



Why are the options grayed out on my projector and not allowing me to change this? Is it because I have it hooked up with HDMI or does it have to do with the source?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Now im real confused because when i turn the 24hz off on ps3 then i cant change the pulldown but if i have the 24hz on auto or on then i can turn 2:2 pulldown off or on. I just want the best pic possible and that noticeable fuzz/snow to go away because it looks real bad on white and black scenes.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I rehooked up my hc720 and the same fuzz/snow was in the same scenes but i guess i never noticed it before. So i dont know what the deal is. I take all picture perfect suggestions


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19572606
> 
> 
> Now im real confused because when i turn the 24hz off on ps3 then i cant change the pulldown but if i have the 24hz on auto or on then i can turn 2:2 pulldown off or on. I just want the best pic possible and that noticeable fuzz/snow to go away because it looks real bad on white and black scenes.



If you turn 24hz off, the PS3 will do 2:3 pulldown.


If you leave the ps3 in auto, you turn on 2:2 pulldown so you can make the projector work with the 24hz signal. If you turn it off the projector itself will do the 2:3 pulldown and will show that its a 60hz signal.


About the fuzz/snow you see.....

1) Do u also see like color sparkles?


2) Is your ps3 resolution set to 1080p?


It could be that you have a bad hdmi cable, or one not rated 1.3a or higher. I remember a similar situation with another member. Try setting the resolution to 1080i or 720p and see if it goes away. Then you'll know u need a new cable. Forum spnsosrs here have good prices.


Hope this helps


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19572530
> 
> 
> Why are the options grayed out on my projector and not allowing me to change this? Is it because I have it hooked up with HDMI or does it have to do with the source?



Hmm..


Don't know really. I read in the manual that ESW is for component connections. Still I went into the menu a turned it on. I have a ps3--> onkyo TX-SR705-->Epson 8350 all through hdmi. I also use hdmi1 and I even changed output settings on the ps3 and was always able to use it.



Is your source a PS3? Try setting it to output RGB and then set RGB Range to FULL. I remember I had it like that the first time I was able to turn it on.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19572279
> 
> 
> Hey guys I NEED HELP. Im finally really sitting down and going over all the details w my 8350 and ps3 to try and get the BEST picture possible. The first problem is on a cartoon blu-ray like Cars its perfect but when i watch a regular blu-ray with humans theres ALOT of fuzz or snow like in the background and its very noticeable. Also i have the 24hrz on with 2:2 pulldown when i watch a movie but when just the ps3 is on it goes back to 60hrz.



This explainded a couple posts up.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19572279
> 
> 
> Does anybody know what the hdmi video range and motion detection and the overscan is. If anybody has any other ps3 and hc8350 things they found for a better picture it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED or any help period. THANKS



1) HDMI Video Range = The manual does not say much about it--> If your video equipment has an HDMI port and you’ve connected it to the projector

using an HDMI cable, set the level of the projector to match that of the video equipment.


2) Motion Detection = As per the manual: This setting specifies how signals are converted to progressive signals. Select a lower setting for slow-moving or still images (S) or select a higher number for video images (M).......My guess is you want it set to fast


3) Overscan = As per the manual: For component video formats, this setting lets you see the edges of the image that are not normally visible in the picture (see page 67). If you see interference when you set Overscan to 100%, try adjusting the Position as described below.



For the best settings from your PS3, in my experience is to turn off 24hz (less motion judder). Set the output of the PS3 to YPb/CbPr/Cr and turn on Super White. Also you can help us by verifying if you can access and turn on "Epson Super White" in Signal > Advanced > EPSON Super White.


Find a calibration disc.


There is one free here on AVS here 


You can also buy HD DVE or Avia or the new Disney World of Wonder (Im gonna get that one soon!)


You can also try calibration settings from the review done by Art in www.projectorreviews.com 



Good luck


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19572025
> 
> 
> 12 bit mode means that the LCD panel driver is 12 bits. So you have 2^12 steps for controlling the panel. Since this uses inorganic panel technology that was used in previous Epson *UB* projectors, I believe this is part of the reason why you get better native contrast performance versus the 8100 organic panels. I have tried changing the signal coming out of my PS3 to the projector but it always says 12 bit mode.
> 
> 
> The color processing of the projector is 10 bits though.



I've tried a lot of different settings through my htpc and my ps3, but the pj never shows 12-bit, or anything for that matter. 'deep color' always shows '----'. Any suggestions? I have a str-dg810 avr with everything going through new hdmi cables.


----------



## dvrmstrng

Hey guys, thought this would be the place to ask this type of question. I was originally going to sell my HC5500 and upgrade to a bigger (65") plasma flat panel. I could not get enough for my projector to buy the TV without taking a ton out of pocket so i thought about selling the 5500 and picking up a 8350. I have had numerous offers of right around $1000 for the HC5500 + some extras so the 8350 would cost very little out of pocket. How do the two compare?


On projectorcentral comparison sheet the only real different i see is the lumens going to the Epson, but the 5500 having a wider variety of HDTV formats. What do you Epson owners suggest?


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19573988
> 
> 
> I've tried a lot of different settings through my htpc and my ps3, but the pj never shows 12-bit, or anything for that matter. 'deep color' always shows '----'. Any suggestions? I have a str-dg810 avr with everything going through new hdmi cables.



Have you tried hooking up the ps3 directly into the projector?


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19574117
> 
> 
> Hey guys, thought this would be the place to ask this type of question. I was originally going to sell my HC5500 and upgrade to a bigger (65") plasma flat panel. I could not get enough for my projector to buy the TV without taking a ton out of pocket so i thought about selling the 5500 and picking up a 8350. I have had numerous offers of right around $1000 for the HC5500 + some extras so the 8350 would cost very little out of pocket. How do the two compare?
> 
> 
> On projectorcentral comparison sheet the only real different i see is the lumens going to the Epson, but the 5500 having a wider variety of HDTV formats. What do you Epson owners suggest?



First, I don't know how you call going from maybe an 95"+ screen size to a 65" plasma an upgrade!!!


Kidding 


Yes, Epson is brighter in brightest mode for sure, but in best movie mode it should give better blacks and shadow detail, and still be plenty bright!. This model is also sharper than previous Epsons, so it should be comparable if not as sharp as the hc5500 which I've read was very sharp.


As an Epson 8350 owner, I would recommend it. I think it will be a noticeable upgrade in PQ, although maybe not by much, but its something! Also, you may not have to put out of pocket money at all with all the deals going on with this model.


Hope this helps!


----------



## dvrmstrng

Yes of course it helps. Thank you for the quick reply. Even if it is the slightest upgrade I think that it may be justified only because a small amount out of pocket would also mean a warranty, which I no longer have. Maybe Ill get lucky and find someone who has had experience with both PJs.


As far as the brightest mode, Im not sure id be using it too much, what is the bulb life like on the Epson in the brightest mode vs something like an economy mode?


----------



## bjdupuis

At last I can post to this thread, having become an official member of the 8350 club. I have no experience with recent projectors, but heard enough good things about it that I ordered one sight unseen when I decided my bonus room needed a projector. Here's the results:

 

 

 


I'm projecting onto a DIY screen (following these directions ) made from RoseBrand 110" wide black-out cloth. Couldn't be happier. Might still end up trying a paint on top of the cloth to increase performance in ambient light, but right now I'm really happy.


----------



## GreyTheater

Mississippi Man - While reading another thread I was noticing your recommendations on the projector distance from the ceiling. I have a low ceiling 86" and my mount is roughly 6" along with the projector another roughly 5". at that height I am getting dangerously close to hitting my head when I stand up or walk under the pj.


I was thinking of doing something like this to get the projector closer to the ceiling (see attachment).


Please let me know your thoughts.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19574586
> 
> 
> Yes of course it helps. Thank you for the quick reply. Even if it is the slightest upgrade I think that it may be justified only because a small amount out of pocket would also mean a warranty, which I no longer have. Maybe Ill get lucky and find someone who has had experience with both PJs.
> 
> 
> As far as the brightest mode, Im not sure id be using it too much, what is the bulb life like on the Epson in the brightest mode vs something like an economy mode?



Bulb life is supposed to be 4000hrs in either mode. You can start using eco and after a couple thousand hrs kick it up to normal to compensate and have a pretty stable lumen output.


----------



## allen1994

I ordered my 8350 2 weeks ago from Amazon but they place the order through Visual Apex.

Paid 1299 but should have search some more for better price. Had issue with bluish blooming color since. I called Epson directly and they are supposed to send me a replacement. I called them yesterday and was told their warehouse is out of stock and it may be another week or two to get more in.


----------



## pmacafee


I bought an AE700 about 5 years ago and then upgraded to an AX100 and really liked the brighter picture. Now I am thinking of upgrading to the 8350. Many of the post indicate a nominal difference in the bump from 720 to 1080 and that most of the percievable picture quality is in brightness, contrast etc. Can anyone tell me what I might experience in moving to this new projector?

Philip Macafee


----------



## msbklipsch

say bjdupuis

are those Klipsch Heresy speakers in the front?


----------



## bjdupuis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msbklipsch* /forum/post/19575437
> 
> 
> say bjdupuis
> 
> are those Klipsch Heresy speakers in the front?



Sorry, no, they're ACI Sapphire III DIY speakers.


----------



## wickedg8gt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19573319
> 
> 
> If you turn 24hz off, the PS3 will do 2:3 pulldown.
> 
> 
> If you leave the ps3 in auto, you turn on 2:2 pulldown so you can make the projector work with the 24hz signal. If you turn it off the projector itself will do the 2:3 pulldown and will show that its a 60hz signal.
> 
> 
> About the fuzz/snow you see.....
> 
> 1) Do u also see like color sparkles?
> 
> 
> 2) Is your ps3 resolution set to 1080p?
> 
> 
> It could be that you have a bad hdmi cable, or one not rated 1.3a or higher. I remember a similar situation with another member. Try setting the resolution to 1080i or 720p and see if it goes away. Then you'll know u need a new cable. Forum spnsosrs here have good prices.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps



I must have a bad projector. The fuzz i see is like when a picture is fuzzy cuz of bad reception or some people call it snowy. Its when theres a real light or real dark scene or on faces its a fuzzy picture and not sharp or crystal clear and its real noticeable. I even turned 720p and 1080i on and its still there. My hdmi cord i bought a few years back to use w my hc720 i got from bestbuy and it was suppose to be a pretty good one. Also when i switch components or before the movie starts when i put it in the ps3 i get another complete fuzzy scene and goes rite away then movie starts. As examples i have Transformers and Spiderman3 blu-ray ive been watching and its on both.


----------



## ChiefJC

Is the snow you describe over the image, or look more like noise, graininess?


Is the content source a bluray player or htpc?


As stated before A bad hdmi cable, lack of bandwidth support(1.3a+)bad hdmi input/output, and too long of a run can cause those symptoms.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjdupuis* /forum/post/19574745
> 
> 
> At last I can post to this thread, having become an official member of the 8350 club. I have no experience with recent projectors, but heard enough good things about it that I ordered one sight unseen when I decided my bonus room needed a projector. Here's the results:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm projecting onto a DIY screen (following these directions ) made from RoseBrand 110" wide black-out cloth. Couldn't be happier. Might still end up trying a paint on top of the cloth to increase performance in ambient light, but right now I'm really happy.



Question regarding your spot light ,

Does it cause any great amounts of heat that could damage your projector?


----------



## Ix

I haven't had a chance to mount and truly set my 8350 up yet but I did do a brief testing hooking it up to my laptop and projecting it on a wall just to make sure it worked. I got it working no problem off the VGA output however I could not get it to display a picture via HDMI 1 or 2 and the laptop's HDMI output - the laptop (ATI Radeon 4200HD) detected "Epson PJ" and even appeared to pull the correct EDID information off it as far as max resolution supported, etc, but the PJ itself just displayed a black screen with the input number and "Signal not found". I tried updating the drivers, rebooting, switching HDMI inputs, nothing.


I was using a Monoprice HDMI cable I've had for a while that I keep in my laptop bag; it works with monitors but I'm wondering - is this PJ known for being super-sensitive to the types of HDMI cables/cards it works with? Is this something others have experienced? I'd hate to mount it all up, connect it up (with my in-wall HDMI cable, which is working with my current Optoma 720p PJ) and find out that doesn't work.


Any suggestions?


----------



## bonjovi

How's this for irony. I just got my projector delivered but I lost power due to the storm. Its just sitting there now! We rarely lose power here. What are the odds?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19576844
> 
> 
> I must have a bad projector. The fuzz i see is like when a picture is fuzzy cuz of bad reception or some people call it snowy. Its when theres a real light or real dark scene or on faces its a fuzzy picture and not sharp or crystal clear and its real noticeable. I even turned 720p and 1080i on and its still there. My hdmi cord i bought a few years back to use w my hc720 i got from bestbuy and it was suppose to be a pretty good one. Also when i switch components or before the movie starts when i put it in the ps3 i get another complete fuzzy scene and goes rite away then movie starts. As examples i have Transformers and Spiderman3 blu-ray ive been watching and its on both.



You don't have Brightness or Contrast above 0 do you or using Dynamic Mode?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreyTheater* /forum/post/19575097
> 
> 
> Mississippi Man - While reading another thread I was noticing your recommendations on the projector distance from the ceiling. I have a low ceiling 86" and my mount is roughly 6" along with the projector another roughly 5". at that height I am getting dangerously close to hitting my head when I stand up or walk under the pj.
> 
> 
> I was thinking of doing something like this to get the projector closer to the ceiling (see attachment).
> 
> 
> Please let me know your thoughts.




That'll work. Do you have attic access above? If so there is a better way.


What mount do you have?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bonjovi* /forum/post/19577264
> 
> 
> How's this for irony. I just got my projector delivered but I lost power due to the storm. Its just sitting there now! We rarely lose power here. What are the odds?



At least the PJ wasn't on at the time. Such is the reason some spend for a UPS to allow time during such events fort one to power down the PJ.


----------



## GreyTheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That'll work. Do you have attic access above? If so there is a better way.
> 
> 
> What mount do you have?



Thanks for the reply. No attic, forgot to put that I am setting up in a basement. I got the package from V/A which included their mount. It's adjustable in all directions.


This is my first projector so I'm trying to make sure everything is ok. Any other tips are appreciated.


----------



## Ix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19577591
> 
> 
> At least the PJ wasn't on at the time. Such is the reason some spend for a UPS to allow time during such events fort one to power down the PJ.



A projector losing power and shutting down hard won't hurt your bulb. Turning it back on again right away, or even within a few minutes, is what will kill it. We had one here in the office do that - the bulb actually exploded inside the case. There was a brief power outage during a presentation, power came back on in something like 30 seconds, sales guy turned the PJ right back on - boom.


However if he had just left it off and let it cool for 10-20 minutes it would have been fine. I think most new PJ's these days have overheat sensor that won't let you turn them back on anyway.


----------



## jeffreydc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19577745
> 
> 
> A projector losing power and shutting down hard won't hurt your bulb. Turning it back on again right away, or even within a few minutes, is what will kill it. We had one here in the office do that - the bulb actually exploded inside the case. There was a brief power outage during a presentation, power came back on in something like 30 seconds, sales guy turned the PJ right back on - boom.
> 
> 
> However if he had just left it off and let it cool for 10-20 minutes it would have been fine. I think most new PJ's these days have overheat sensor that won't let you turn them back on anyway.



I dont see how I could hook a UPS to mine since I will be plugging it in to an outlet in the ceiling. My power often flickers off and on within a few seconds in my area during bad storms. Is there some kind of small surge protector that plugs into an outlet and needs to be reset after a power outage?


----------



## Ix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19577844
> 
> 
> I dont see how I could hook a UPS to mine since I will be plugging it in to an outlet in the ceiling. Is there some kind of small surge protector that plugs into an outlet and needs to be reset after a power outage?



I use a single outlet surge protector (the travel kind work too) with my ceiling plug:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-P1T-Portab...1249081&sr=8-6 


As far as outages, most PJs - the 8350 included - won't automatically turn themselves back on after a loss of power. The 8350 also has the heat sensor I mentioned earlier so you can't turn it on if it thinks it's too hot anyway. Wish Dell would do this with their business line of PJ's.


----------



## jeffreydc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19577863
> 
> 
> I use a single outlet surge protector (the travel kind work too) with my ceiling plug:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/APC-P1T-Portab...1249081&sr=8-6
> 
> 
> As far as outages, most PJs - the 8350 included - won't automatically turn themselves back on after a loss of power. The 8350 also has the heat sensor I mentioned earlier so you can't turn it on if it thinks it's too hot anyway. Wish Dell would do this with their business line of PJ's.



Thanks Ix thats good to know


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19576844
> 
> 
> I must have a bad projector. The fuzz i see is like when a picture is fuzzy cuz of bad reception or some people call it snowy. Its when theres a real light or real dark scene or on faces its a fuzzy picture and not sharp or crystal clear and its real noticeable. I even turned 720p and 1080i on and its still there. My hdmi cord i bought a few years back to use w my hc720 i got from bestbuy and it was suppose to be a pretty good one. Also when i switch components or before the movie starts when i put it in the ps3 i get another complete fuzzy scene and goes rite away then movie starts. As examples i have Transformers and Spiderman3 blu-ray ive been watching and its on both.



Well, if I remember correctly, the problem was not with CG films like "Cars", but with live action movies, so that could rule out the hdmi cable, but u say its from a few years back...so maybe its from before 1.3 standard came in, or maybe before 1.2. If the rating of the cable is not 1.3, you could have some trouble with the cable handling then bandwidth of the signal....But yes, it could be the pj as well.....


Have you tried using hdmi2 instead of hdmi1? Have you tried connecting your ps3 or htpc directly into the projector and not through the AVR?


I also recommend a new hdmi cable even if the projector is faulty to ensure a better signal to the pj with the new PJ. Whad you described as a "complete fuzzy scene" could very well be the handshake of the Hdmi signal coming from the PS3 while its changing resolution or signal change to 24hz.


HDMI cables at Best Buy are expensive....You can get better quality at a much much better price from Monoprice.com, a forum sponsor. I've never had a problem with their cable and I can give testimony of their excellent build quality.


Let us know if it was the pj so its noted here in the forum in case it happens to any of us.


Thanks


----------



## Hoosier1131

Hey guys,


First projector purchase about to happen. Glad I waited till this came out instead of pulling the trigger on the 8100. I'm not real sure about mounting the projector, and the screen size. My screen wall is 11 feet wide, so I'm not too sure what size the screen should be. Question is, how far away should I mount the projector, and how do I know what size screen to buy? With an 11 foot screen wall, I figure 8 or 9 feet would look best? I can mount the projector absolutely anywhere, and I want the best picture. And suggestions of how far away to mount, what size screen to buy, and what the best ratio is? I couln't tell you the difference between 3"9 or 16:9 or any of that. Still have a lot of research to do.


Appreciate it


----------



## hanly2

I just ordered mine, should be here soon. Upgrading from my 4805. Now I was using a cheap ebay mount with the 4805 and never had any problems, just wondering what mounts you guy's are using for the 8350?


----------



## Ix

I am using a Chief universal RPAU - this one http://www.projectorpeople.com/acces...hief-rpa_u.asp 


Fits it fine. Make sure you have M4-9mm screws for the Epson mount points, the Chief came with M6. That fit my old Optoma fine but I found out the hard way tonight the Epson's are smaller, which is why it's not yet mounted in my house


----------



## dswdallas

I had a similar "noisy" picture using my Sony Blu-Ray going to a JVC250 thru a switch and then the receiver. I needed the switch since I had more than 2 HDMI sources and only 2 inputs into the receiver. Turned out that I was at the max for the HDMI cable (around 35') to the projector. Cut out the switch and went just thru the receiver to the projector and problem solved. Bottom line it may be time for a new HDMI cable. Would recommend testing with a short cable to the projector.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I spent the whole day trying to figure out the problem and i cant. The fuzz or snow or grainines/noise is on all live action movies. Cartoon/animated movies (Cars, Toy Story 3, A Christmas Carol ) and internet from ps3 all look bad ass except cursor on internet lags but from eye perspective better and brighter than my hc720 but havnt done a true side by side comparison. I even went to hhgregg and bought a new hdmi cord accidentally 6ft but need 12ft since mine was 2yrs old and switched back and forth from hdmi1 and hdmi2 but didnt help. My ps3 is running straight into the projector using hdmi. When went back I did notice my hc720 did the same thing just not as noticeable. I dont know if its just me or what. But im calling Epson and telling them i have a bad unit and to me they have always had great support so hopefully they send me a new one and not a refurbished one and ill send this one back so i can get this resolved and i can enjoy a GREAT picture like everyone else. Or take it back to hhgregg cuz im sure they have another in stock. If anyone else is experiencing this let me know so we can put our heads together. I have done EVERYTHING everyone has mentioned and more. But i also relize its a brand new product and theres going to be bugs/glitches (i.e. stuck gas peddle) so im not mad cuz we have warrantys and ill just get a new one. Any help send my way is ALWAYS APPRECIATED. THANKS


----------



## andrios

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fraisa* 
Got a New Calibration BluRay...

Disney WOW World of Wonder...

Comes with 2 Discs

Very Easy to use

Ideal for this or any Projector

Bought it on BB website

Very Very Good...

So Glad i Got it


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Disney+W...7497&st=Disney WOW&lp=1&cp=1
Is this the best/easiest bluray to calibrate with? How does it compare to others?


Thanks


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *andrios* 
Is this the best/easiest bluray to calibrate with? How does it compare to others?


Thanks
Its very easy to use,

YOu have to understand with Projectors you will always be adjusting your settings as your bulb gets life on it.

For my customers that like to play with settings and make adjustments

i will be selling them this disc....

its an awesome tool and very user friendly...


----------



## Casper_G

Hey


I now have a BenQ W1000 (the first model, not the + model) which I am not so happy with, because of noise from the color wheel, black level and some motion judder.

Will i notice any difference if I switch to the 8350?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* 
I spent the whole day trying to figure out the problem and i cant. The fuzz or snow or grainines/noise is on all live action movies. Cartoon/animated movies (Cars, Toy Story 3, A Christmas Carol ) and internet from ps3 all look bad ass except cursor on internet lags but from eye perspective better and brighter than my hc720 but havnt done a true side by side comparison. I even went to hhgregg and bought a new hdmi cord accidentally 6ft but need 12ft since mine was 2yrs old and switched back and forth from hdmi1 and hdmi2 but didnt help. My ps3 is running straight into the projector using hdmi. When went back I did notice my hc720 did the same thing just not as noticeable. I dont know if its just me or what. But im calling Epson and telling them i have a bad unit and to me they have always had great support so hopefully they send me a new one and not a refurbished one and ill send this one back so i can get this resolved and i can enjoy a GREAT picture like everyone else. Or take it back to hhgregg cuz im sure they have another in stock. If anyone else is experiencing this let me know so we can put our heads together. I have done EVERYTHING everyone has mentioned and more. But i also relize its a brand new product and theres going to be bugs/glitches (i.e. stuck gas peddle) so im not mad cuz we have warrantys and ill just get a new one. Any help send my way is ALWAYS APPRECIATED. THANKS
I wish you the best of lucks!! Epson's warranty is one of the reasons I bought from them since their warranty covers Puerto Rico and thankfully their customer service is rated very high!


I hope the problem fixes with the new projector, but while you get the replacement.....


Could you tell us what are your Display settings on the PS3 from the settings menu?


Also...what are you video settings from the BD/DVD menu?


I ask because if you see it on both projectors....maybe it could be a setting on the PS3.


----------



## soutthpaw

I am about to pull the trigger on one of these 8350 projectors at BestBuy. my one concern is if the projector is good/fast enough for playing video games via my PS3????


----------



## Ix

It's fine for video games. I believe others in the thread have also stated they don't have issues with ghosting, judder, etc.


----------



## dvrmstrng

Just sold my HC5500 and am already itching to pull the trigger on this guy, but for some reason I keep thinking of a plasma but how could anything compare to a 100"+ screen.


My throw distance is right around 15', and around 5' off the ground. Screen will be a da-lite model C 133" I believe 1.2 gain seating distance around 12'. Everything sound good?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* 
I am about to pull the trigger on one of these 8350 projectors at BestBuy. my one concern is if the projector is good/fast enough for playing video games via my PS3????
Gaming is not an issue with this projector!!


I completely recommend it.


----------



## jays_on

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Uber12* 
It's also available for Disney Movie Rewards members for 1225 points.
Nice find! Thanks for the heads up, I had enough points to order it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* 
I dont know if its just me or what. But im calling Epson and telling them i have a bad unit and to me they have always had great support so hopefully they send me a new one and not a refurbished one and ill send this one back so i can get this resolved and i can enjoy a GREAT picture like everyone else. *Or take it back to hhgregg cuz im sure they have another in stock.*
If it was me I would do an exchange through hhgregg and be done with it. Saves you the wait, and usually when fedex drops your new one off from epson its beat to crap.


----------



## soutthpaw

Thanks for the timely responses on the gaming issue, I will head over to the one BB this morning after dropping my daughter off at pre school. I know I can get it cheaper elsewhere but they are doing 3yrs no interest financing and I don't have the cash to buy outright at the moment. I will see if I can get them to cut me a deal on the extended warranty to match the no tax or shipping via amazon... Sales guy told me their warranty includes 1 free replacement bulb too so the 4 yr plan would be cool (i am gonna ask to see the fine print on the bulb deal too)... I actually had good luck with BB extended warranties in the past soo that would be a plus


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19579788
> 
> 
> The fuzz or snow or grainines/noise is on all live action movies.
> 
> I even went to hhgregg and bought a new hdmi cord accidentally 6ft but need 12ft since mine was 2yrs old and switched back and forth from hdmi1 and hdmi2 but didnt help. My ps3 is running straight into the projector using hdmi.
> 
> *When went back I did notice my hc720 did the same thing just not as noticeable.*



With this new info you provided, the issue most likely resides with the PS3 settings or the PS3 itself.


Post your PS3 picture settings so those who own one can see if anything appears out of whack before you send that unit back and possibly have the same issue with another unit.


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmacafee* /forum/post/19575355
> 
> 
> I bought an AE700 about 5 years ago and then upgraded to an AX100 and really liked the brighter picture. Now I am thinking of upgrading to the 8350. Many of the post indicate a nominal difference in the bump from 720 to 1080 and that most of the percievable picture quality is in brightness, contrast etc. Can anyone tell me what I might experience in moving to this new projector?



I replaced a pana AX-200 with the 8350. The brightness is the same to my eyes. Contrast is a little better but not that much. I like the iris better. I don't feel it anymore as much as I did with the 200. And for resolution, it depends how far are you from the screen and his size. Me, from first row (13ft) I see a little difference but second (19f) nothing at all. Screen size is 120". Colors are better. Just my POV... My wife told me, if she sees a big difference, she'll pay half the price. I did not tried to convince her... I'm still trying to convince me...


If it last 3 years without problem, I'll be happy with it.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just ordered mine, should be here soon. Upgrading from my 4805. Now I was using a cheap ebay mount with the 4805 and never had any problems, just wondering what mounts you guy's are using for the 8350?



I'm using the universal Albus mount from visual apex. Works great, very sturdy, and comes with additional arms to fit most projectors.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced a pana AX-200 with the 8350. The brightness is the same to my eyes. Contrast is a little better but not that much. I like the iris better. I don't feel it anymore as much as I did with the 200. And for resolution, it depends how far are you from the screen and his size. Me, from first row (13ft) I see a little difference but second (19f) nothing at all. Screen size is 120". Colors are better. Just my POV... My wife told me, if she sees a big difference, she'll pay half the price. I did not tried to convince her... I'm still trying to convince me...
> 
> 
> If it last 3 years without problem, I'll be happy with it.



What is your source material, And throw distance?


The ax200 was a great pj. Brightness was great, and up-converting was probably best you could find. The area you should be seeing the biggest upgrade are contrast. And if your throw is not past 16.9 feet, colors, and brightness in cinema mode should be better than the 200's.


And of course bluray content should be noticeably sharper at viewing distances >16ft.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With this new info you provided, the issue most likely resides with the PS3 settings or the PS3 itself.
> 
> 
> Post your PS3 picture settings so those who own one can see if anything appears out of whack before you send that unit back and possibly have the same issue with another unit.



I was thinking the same thing. Most of the time with picture noise it's source components. Do you have a regular bluray player you can use to test? If you do make sure you use that new cable as well.


----------



## bonjovi

I'm new to projectors, but I finally fired up my projector last night. I think it looks amazing. Right now its not mounted and I hear quite a bit of fan noise and a lot of other noise almost like a hard drive searching through files. My guess is that it is the Iris as I had it on. Is it suppossed to be that loud?Again the thing is about a foot away from at this point so I think it will lessen quite substantially when I move it to its mount. I will mess with it more when I get home.

I love my first projector so far... granted its been 10 mins. I'm so glad I was talked out of PJ's that were $1-$3K more than this one.


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19577844
> 
> 
> I dont see how I could hook a UPS to mine since I will be plugging it in to an outlet in the ceiling. My power often flickers off and on within a few seconds in my area during bad storms. Is there some kind of small surge protector that plugs into an outlet and needs to be reset after a power outage?





I'm using one of these http://www.stopsurges.com/LEVITON-53...E-5380-XXX.htm 



mark


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

bonjovi, that is a sweet build !! WOW. When will it be complete? Looks like there is only a little more work to do from looking at your blue prints.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleveland Plasma* /forum/post/19581725
> 
> 
> bonjovi, that is a sweet build !! WOW. When will it be complete? Looks like there is only a little more work to do from looking at your blue prints.



Thanks. Starting to slow down as I get to the electronics. I want to build my own rack and screen. Also taking my sweet time with the star ceiling. I hope to have the majority of things done by new years! Let's hope.


----------



## minertwofour




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sparky7* /forum/post/19581676
> 
> 
> I'm using one of these http://www.stopsurges.com/LEVITON-53...E-5380-XXX.htm
> 
> 
> 
> mark



Wow. Granted, it could be a different model (it is, the 5280, 15A), but the Leviton surge outlet I bought at Home Depot was $20ish. Used it for a wall mount LG LED.


----------



## fraisa

For those intrested in what a epson 9700ub can do

have posted new screen shots

In the 9700 ub epson thread......


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19581323
> 
> 
> What is your source material, And throw distance?
> 
> 
> The ax200 was a great pj. Brightness was great, and up-converting was probably best you could find. The area you should be seeing the biggest upgrade are contrast. And if your throw is not past 16.9 feet, colors, and brightness in cinema mode should be better than the 200's.
> 
> 
> And of course bluray content should be noticeably sharper at viewing distances >16ft.



My projector is at 21'. I kwow it's far but it's in my projection booth... My room is 21'x15'x9. And there is a hole in the back for my pj. I just switched the two projectors, adjusted with my eyes and DVE (Bly-Ray) and my principal source is my BDP-S350 Sony Blu-Ray player. My vision is 20/20.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19560839
> 
> 
> Hey Miss wanted to show you some pics from the grey cup
> 
> 
> Pics from the Far Side viewing Angle with Ambient Light...
> 
> Full motion not stilled paused shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight center pic



Hi,


Not at all bad. I see a lot of image noise in those first two shots, so I suppose you must have taken them at 800 ISO? Looks as if you did that, and then zoomed in some as well to reduce the blooming off the Screen such a sensitive setting can introduce.


But was that necessary with a Black Diamond Screen? I suppose it might be if it is the .8 gain unit. Show me some taken from 15' to 20' away @ 200 & 800 ISO, with the latter ISO utilizing just 20-30% zoom. The 800 ISO should adequately show the Rooms illumination level as well as the Screen's actual Fl output, and by keeping the Zoom at a lower level, there should be far less noise in the image.


I did enjoy the Eye Candy though....







No matter what else, you cannot turn a Sows Ear into a Silk Purse with magic, so in the least things are working together quite well indeed.


BTW,,,my " side angle shots" were a lot more severe than yours. Up the ante.....if ya dare!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19582034
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Not at all bad. I see a lot of image noise in those first two shots, so I suppose you must have taken them at 800 ISO? Looks as if you did that, and then zoomed in some as well to reduce the blooming off the Screen such a sensitive setting can introduce.
> 
> 
> But was that necessary with a Black Diamond Screen? I suppose it might be if it is the .8 gain unit. Show me some taken from 15' to 20' away @ 200 & 800 ISO, with the latter ISO utilizing just 20-30% zoom. The 800 ISO should adequately show the Rooms illumination level as well as the Screen's actual Fl output, and by keeping the Zoom at a lower level, there should be far less noise in the image.
> 
> 
> I did enjoy the Eye Candy though....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No matter what else, you cannot turn a Sows Ear into a Silk Purse with magic, so in the least things are working together quite well indeed.



Hey Miss

I do have a .8 gain screen

Do you suggest i put the camera iso at 400?

edit...

just posted a couple of pics from wwe at iso 400

posted at Epson 9700ub thread....

I think there is less noise at that setting and is more natural to the pic on the screen...


----------



## soutthpaw

I'm in the club now. Just picked up an 8350 from Best Buy and also got their 4 year warranty as it covers 1 free bulb replacement as part of the plan. hopefully i will get to play with it a bit this weekend


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19582307
> 
> 
> I'm in the club now. Just picked up an 8350 from Best Buy and also got their 4 year warranty as it covers 1 free bulb replacement as part of the plan. hopefully i will get to play with it a bit this weekend



awesome hope you have Reward Zone....

take advantage of some of those points


----------



## dvrmstrng

Officially an owner (somewhat). Very upset however to learn that VisualApex ships from WA when i'm over here in NJ. Can't wait, going to get some pictures up for everyone.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19582008
> 
> 
> My projector is at 21'. I kwow it's far but it's in my projection booth... My room is 21'x15'x9. And there is a hole in the back for my pj. I just switched the two projectors, adjusted with my eyes and DVE (Bly-Ray) and my principal source is my BDP-S350 Sony Blu-Ray player. My vision is 20/20.



Ok, That explains alot. The light output for the panny was actually better at longer throws than the Epson. The epson isn't as bright as the 200u at that 21' throw, but is brighter from throws of >16.9'. Im sure you already know this so the below is for the good of the forum, and anyone currently planing there PJ install and throw distances, screen size etc.


The 8350 is a pretty bright PJ, but that brightness is only usable if placed within +%10 of its median zoom or closer. Also to be considered is that throws over 16.9 Ft really start to diminish the FL's reguardless of zoom used.


A few examples are below, keep in mind these fl outputs are based on Maximum Light output modes(for 8350 its Dynamic in Normal power consumption) also to consider is that the 8350 boasts 2000 ANSI, but was actaully tested to be quit less thus the fl numbers below a little higher than they actaully really are. I know my slightly calibrated Dynamic mode in Normal only scored in the mid 1200's which is signifigantly less than 2000....


106" 1.2 gain screen, 13' throw = 23fl

120" 1.2 gain screen, 13.5' throw = 21fl

120" 1.2 gain screen, 16' throw = 17fl

120" 1.2 gain screen, 17.5' throw = 14

120" 1.2 gain screen, 21' throw = 12fl


So you can see, the curve from ~16' and further is pretty sharp. In a review it was tested as decreasing over %40 from mid zoom to almost max. And the results they came up with were based on the "Dynamic" brightest mode again


Zoom out: 1640

Mid-zoom: 1378

Zoom in: 987


If you convert those numbers over to the cinema mode it gets real ugly fast.


Zoom out 546

Mid-zoom 463

Zoom in: 330


----------



## RTO69




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19579096
> 
> 
> I just ordered mine, should be here soon. Upgrading from my 4805. Now I was using a cheap ebay mount with the 4805 and never had any problems, just wondering what mounts you guy's are using for the 8350?



I used this one from ebay.. works great... even from ebay...









http://cgi.ebay.com/Ceiling-Mount-EP...item3361b019a9


----------



## wickedg8gt

To everyone thats helped me I APPRECIATE IT.

Here are my ps3 settings and maybe this will help:


VIDEO SETTINGS-


BD/DVD Cinema Conversion- Auto

DVD Wide Display- Pan and Scan

BD/DVD Upscaler- Normal

BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)- Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr

BD 1080 24Hz Output (HDMI)- On


DISPLAY SETTINGS-


Video Output Settings- 1080p

Cross Color Reduction Filter- Off

RGB Full Range (HDMI)- Limited

Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI)- On

Deep Color Output (HDMI)- Auto


----------



## wickedg8gt

I also went ahead and decided to take it back to hhgregg and theyll have another one ready Saturday. I really think something was wrong with this one. As much as I appreciate Epsons support line i thought taking back to hhgregg would be easier for rite now since i just bought it from there a few days ago. I will say though for anyone who hasnt used there techline/support they are really good. I had a problem with my hc720 when i first bought it cuz it had already been used from hhgregg and they said i had to call Epson and there customer service is really good because they sent me out a brand new one and i returned the not so good one in their box all for free and no hassle except getting it to a Fedex or UPS. It took a couple days to get it but i recieved it and no problems and had no problems since. But this time i did take it back to hhgregg and they accepted it. So hopefully the issue gets resolved and if anyone has anymore advice on what i should/could do its Always welcome and Appreciated. THANKS


----------



## prggr

Alright, long term lurker, first time poster here. I finally decided to take the plunge and upgrade from my 60" Sony SXRD rear projection TV to a projector. My initial research was on an HD20, but after browsing the forum, quickly changed over to the 8350 and snagged one from Projector People when they had their black Friday sale.


So, projector arrived today and after firing it up, it looks like I have some color convergence issues. On the left of the screen, there is a little bit of separation, but on the right, I get a full 2.5 pixels of red shifting up and left and about 2 pixels of green shifting right. It's not the source - it shows up on the projector's menu pretty obviously (the single pixel white outline looks like three separate outlines.) I'm having a hard time photographing the issue (any tips?)


Anyway, is this typical? Thanks!


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19584904
> 
> 
> To everyone thats helped me I APPRECIATE IT.
> 
> Here are my ps3 settings and maybe this will help:
> 
> 
> VIDEO SETTINGS-
> 
> 
> BD/DVD Cinema Conversion- Auto
> 
> DVD Wide Display- Pan and Scan
> 
> BD/DVD Upscaler- Normal
> 
> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)- Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
> 
> BD 1080 24Hz Output (HDMI)- On
> 
> 
> DISPLAY SETTINGS-
> 
> 
> Video Output Settings- 1080p
> 
> Cross Color Reduction Filter- Off
> 
> RGB Full Range (HDMI)- Limited
> 
> Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI)- On
> 
> Deep Color Output (HDMI)- Auto




These are the same settings I have on my PS3 and I don't see any fuzzy Image....maybe your unit was bad after all.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19584960
> 
> 
> I also went ahead and decided to take it back to hhgregg and theyll have another one ready Saturday. I really think something was wrong with this one. As much as I appreciate Epsons support line i thought taking back to hhgregg would be easier for rite now since i just bought it from there a few days ago. I will say though for anyone who hasnt used there techline/support they are really good. I had a problem with my hc720 when i first bought it cuz it had already been used from hhgregg and they said i had to call Epson and there customer service is really good because they sent me out a brand new one and i returned the not so good one in their box all for free and no hassle except getting it to a Fedex or UPS. It took a couple days to get it but i recieved it and no problems and had no problems since. But this time i did take it back to hhgregg and they accepted it. So hopefully the issue gets resolved and if anyone has anymore advice on what i should/could do its Always welcome and Appreciated. THANKS



Really the best thing to do right now...Let's hope the other one does not have any issues!!


Good luck


----------



## eliwankenobi

Have any of you who have calibrated the projector noticed that it doesn't display the below black bars from the pluge?


I tried a bunch of different settings from the PS3, with super white on and off and it does not appear.


One thing I noticed is that if you set your PS3 to output RGB instead of Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and turn on Epson super white...it clips the black bars from my DVE disc. Which explains why it crushes shadow detail from the image....


----------



## dlpblues

thinking of replacing my optoma hd72 epson is not a dlp can anyone advise me which is better dlp or 3lcd


----------



## Hoosier1131

I'm going to be mounting this projector soon. First time. I'm a little confused on what to do. Do I pick a screen size, then mount the projector accordingly, or is there an "ideal" position to away from screen wall to mount it.


----------



## wickedg8gt

On a Playstation3 i read somewhere that if u hit triangle during a movie one of the options you can adjust video settings and i didnt know it was there. So i started messing with it and u can change rgb or ypb/cbpr/cr rite there during the movie. Well i watched several bluray and i noticed with rgb and on limited colors to me looked a lil brighter and especially blacks looked alot blacker. I mite have seen some crushed blacks but i dont really know what that is just what ive read.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19586409
> 
> 
> On a Playstation3 i read somewhere that if u hit triangle during a movie one of the options you can adjust video settings and i didnt know it was there. So i started messing with it and u can change rgb or ypb/cbpr/cr rite there during the movie. Well i watched several bluray and i noticed with rgb and on limited colors to me looked a lil brighter and especially blacks looked alot blacker. I mite have seen some crushed blacks but i dont really know what that is just what ive read.



Yes, setting the output to RGB, you should set the range to "Full", if you set it to "limited", it will crush a little the blacks and whites as well... since the ps3 will be clipping the color range of the video signal... Just don't enable Epson Super White. It will definately crush shadow detail!!


The settings you provided that u got from the internet are best as I replied to that post that those are the settings I have on mine.


----------



## luebster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19577844
> 
> 
> Is there some kind of small surge protector that plugs into an outlet and needs to be reset after a power outage?



I just bought an in-wall surge suppressor outlet/keystone mount from Panamax: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B001DJY0LW 


Lets you snap an HDMI keystone in there for a very pro look.


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hoosier1131* /forum/post/19586332
> 
> 
> I'm going to be mounting this projector soon. First time. I'm a little confused on what to do. Do I pick a screen size, then mount the projector accordingly, or is there an "ideal" position to away from screen wall to mount it.



This PJ has a lot of flexibility as far as mounting, 2.1:1 zoom and lens shift. Figure out what screen size you want to start with. The size will be determined by a lot of factors including the wall size, seating distance and personal preference. If you have the PJ already, find a sturdy table and set it up where you think it should go. Shine it on the wall and set the zoom for the size of the screen you hope to use. Watch a few movies. Once you know what size the screen will be, consider the location of the PJ next. From what I have gathered so far, ideally try to stay near the center of the zoom range. If you need a brighter image, move the projector closer. Take into account the gain of the screen material you will use. The levels drop off dramatically when use the projector at the farthest reach of the zoom range as CheifJC clearly showed in post 1887.


Here is a very nifty calculator that should help.

http://www.screeninnovations.com/too...jector-wizard/


----------



## sgtdejavu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19583355
> 
> 
> Ok, That explains alot. The light output for the panny was actually better at longer throws than the Epson. The epson isn't as bright as the 200u at that 21' throw, but is brighter from throws of >16.9'. Im sure you already know this so the below is for the good of the forum, and anyone currently planing there PJ install and throw distances, screen size etc.
> 
> 
> The 8350 is a pretty bright PJ, but that brightness is only usable if placed within +%10 of its median zoom or closer. Also to be considered is that throws over 16.9 Ft really start to diminish the FL's reguardless of zoom used.
> 
> 
> A few examples are below, keep in mind these fl outputs are based on Maximum Light output modes(for 8350 its Dynamic in Normal power consumption) also to consider is that the 8350 boasts 2000 ANSI, but was actaully tested to be quit less thus the fl numbers below a little higher than they actaully really are. I know my slightly calibrated Dynamic mode in Normal only scored in the mid 1200's which is signifigantly less than 2000....
> 
> 
> 106" 1.2 gain screen, 13' throw = 23fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 13.5' throw = 21fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 16' throw = 17fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 17.5' throw = 14
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 21' throw = 12fl
> 
> 
> So you can see, the curve from ~16' and further is pretty sharp. In a review it was tested as decreasing over %40 from mid zoom to almost max. And the results they came up with were based on the "Dynamic" brightest mode again
> 
> 
> Zoom out: 1640
> 
> Mid-zoom: 1378
> 
> Zoom in: 987
> 
> 
> If you convert those numbers over to the cinema mode it gets real ugly fast.
> 
> 
> Zoom out 546
> 
> Mid-zoom 463
> 
> Zoom in: 330



Hey Jeremy, great numbers. What meter did you use to measure with? I am looking to buy something to use to calibrate with. I am leaning toward the Eye-One Display LT. Also, how did you do your measurement?

Thanks


----------



## vaguy28

Gents,


This a simple one and would appreciate an honest opinion....would a White Matte screen with 1.0 Gain be a decent choice for this projector? My throw distance is about 12-13 ft and I do most of my viewing at night with some - minimal - ambient lighting. Also, is there a big difference between a gain on 1.0 and 1.1 when it comes to image quality?


Thanks!


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vaguy28* /forum/post/19588157
> 
> 
> Gents,
> 
> 
> This a simple one and would appreciate an honest opinion....would a White Matte screen with 1.0 Gain be a decent choice for this projector? My throw distance is about 12-13 ft and I do most of my viewing at night with some - minimal - ambient lighting. Also, is there a big difference between a gain on 1.0 and 1.1 when it comes to image quality?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You should have no problem at all!


As said many times by many users...This PJ is bright! 1.0 gain will be fine.


----------



## Randy Mathis

My pj and my mount arrived at noon. I mounted the pj but I haven't turned it on yet because it arrived very cold. I don't want the drastic temp change that would result from turning it on.


I'm upgrading from a Sanyo Z2 and I really hope that this justifies the switch. Better colors, a contrast improvement, and a much brighter picture would be great.


----------



## Ix

It cannot be overstressed how bright this thing is, even when using optimal cinema modes and settings. In Dynamic mode I found it to be perfectly possible to watch football with the lights on, as long as I didn't have any light sources directly pointing at the screen or directly overhead in the path of the beam (I have one ceiling light that will do this).


I found after some tweaking with my VE BD disk and playing with the PS3 settings shown above I could get black levels about as good as my Optoma HD78DC3, which is a DLP that uses the old but still great TI DarkChip 3 and was one of the better 720p projectors around under 5k back in the day.


Color wise I think I have to adjust a little (me, or the PJ). It's so much brighter - and this is factoring in that the bulb I had in my Optoma only had 110 hours on it, so it wasn't that - that it's hard to do a direct comparison. I think the DLP had a slightly "warmer" look to it (yes I adjusted the color temperature settings on the Epson to 7500k as recommended). And at the moment I can't seem to get the Epson to focus quite as sharply as my Optoma could, although the difference is slight and may just be a matter of getting a few more hours on the bulb.


For me, I do a lot of PC gaming on my PJ, so it would have been worth it just to get 1080p, but so far I'm surprisingly pleased with the image quality compared to my old but good DLP. And it certainly is easier to live with - quieter, for one, and the lens shift both ways makes it a heck of a lot easier to place. Although it seems I need to re-register my Chief universal mount since I've got a little key-stoning going on - ugh. There goes 30 minutes on a ladder


----------



## wickedg8gt

I figured i would post my HDMI cable specs just in case it might help resolve the problem or might not.


High definition video/audio cable with audio return and 3d and ethernet ready

1440p

240hz

48bit

10.2gbps


If this is not right or i need better or different let me know. I guess i dont need audio part since projectors dont have speakers and i use ps3s cable to surround system


----------



## AKg907

I started noticing the sound of the dynamic iris during the quiet scenes of movies. I talked to a person at Epson about it(who I could tell was not a tech) and they said that is was the normal mechanical operation sound of the dynamic iris. Granted the sound is not that loud, but I do notice it. It is louder than the fans. So...is this the normal operation sound of the iris? Am I being too picky?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AKg907* /forum/post/19590121
> 
> 
> I started noticing the sound of the dynamic iris during the quiet scenes of movies. I talked to a person at Epson about it(who I could tell was not a tech) and they said that is was the normal mechanical operation sound of the dynamic iris. Granted the sound is not that loud, but I do notice it. It is louder than the fans. So...is this the normal operation sound of the iris? Am I being too picky?



I don't hear the iris at all. My projector sits about 8 feet above my head.


How far is the projector from your head?


----------



## loewenmark

I just purchased the 8350 and am expecting it next week. My question is in regards to what are my limitations to mounting this at a fairly close proximity to the wall i'm projecting on? It is a small room so...


I will be mounting it exactly 7'9" away. From what i can see according to the Throw Calculator this can give me a 16:9 60"-82" Image. I am considering going with an 80" Image except that i will have to use the zoom function almost to its Maximum?

So my question is what if any are the shortcomings or are there any negatives in terms of picture quality when using the Zoom at or near its maximum?


Thank you for any knowledge or expertise you can provide.


----------



## pmacafee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmacafee* /forum/post/19575355
> 
> 
> I bought an AE700 about 5 years ago and then upgraded to an AX100 and really liked the brighter picture. Now I am thinking of upgrading to the 8350. Many of the post indicate a nominal difference in the bump from 720 to 1080 and that most of the percievable picture quality is in brightness, contrast etc. Can anyone tell me what I might experience in moving to this new projector?



Not sure if anyone responded to my post above but I pulled the trigger anyway last night.


Love the machine, think I need to wear sunglasses in my living room at night.


I love the dynamic mode. The colors do not wash out. Set the auto iris to fast, color temperature to 7500 and turned The Epson Super White on. We can have a little light on in the living room now or have a light on in the adjoining kitchen without the picture being compromised.


As someone else said here. It is just like having a monster LCD flat panel display.


The unit smells plasticy, hot, like some parts are burning in. Hope I didn't miss some part of the unboxing and leave something inside I shouldn't have.

Philip Macafee


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmacafee* /forum/post/19590590
> 
> 
> The unit smells plasticy, hot, like some parts are burning in. Hope I didn't miss some part of the unboxing and leave something inside I shouldn't have.



The plasticy smell is not unusual. It will go away as the initial hours of use pass.


----------



## David_W

I bought an 8350 about two months ago, and have 67 hours on it so far. I've always been impressed by the extremely quiet fan (quieter than my Sanyo 4Z). A few minutes ago I noticed that I could hear it quite easily from about 9 feet away, without a movie playing. Has anyone else noticed this happening on their unit? Any ideas about why the change has happened or a good guess as to the cause? The sound is hard to describe, it's not distressful, as if something had come loose, it's just the steady sound you might expect from a fan that isn't designed to run quiet.


----------



## AKg907

It is sitting on a shelf about 4 feet above my head


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

More waiting for me







. I ordered it at ultimate electronics and it still has yet to arrive. Sucks, because I got my whole sound system in, which is great, but I'd just love to get it and put it all together.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sgtdejavu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Jeremy, great numbers. What meter did you use to measure with? I am looking to buy something to use to calibrate with. I am leaning toward the Eye-One Display LT. Also, how did you do your measurement?
> 
> Thanks



The meter used was a chroma 5 w/ calman enthusiast software. The measurements with the C5 are in Ft/l so You'd have to convert those to lumens. It's the same way with most colorimeters.


----------



## Ix

Does the 8350 have some kind of test image with borders that you can use to register it's mount? I have a buddy with the 8700ub who swears it has something like that hidden in the menus, but I can't find a reference to it. He said it made it real easy to dial the mount in. Me, I'm up on a ladder with measuring tape, a level, a screwdriver, and a lot of patience trying to get the pitch and yaw just right using the default screen on my PS3.


----------



## joshs232




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19590848
> 
> 
> Does the 8350 have some kind of test image with borders that you can use to register it's mount? I have a buddy with the 8700ub who swears it has something like that hidden in the menus, but I can't find a reference to it. He said it made it real easy to dial the mount in. Me, I'm up on a ladder with measuring tape, a level, a screwdriver, and a lot of patience trying to get the pitch and yaw just right using the default screen on my PS3.



Push the pattern button on the remote (lower left)


----------



## Randy Mathis

I haven't seen any bad pixels and the convergence looks good. Very nice projector. I have an eyeone meter but I won't use it until I get a few more hours on the machine.


----------



## 3Aims

Oh boy. I'm in hour two of the new projector and I am almost speechless. I am upgrading from a perfectly fine four year old Sanyo Z5. To put things in perspective, I test drove an Epson 6100 about two years ago and hated the noise, the poor convergence, and loud iris. Plus, it seemed like a marginal upgrade when I did side by side tests with my Z5.


Two years later...man. This new 8350 is a really nice upgrade. I used the settings on projector central for both cinema and dynamic mode. My thoughts versus my Z5 which is on it's second bulb with 600 hours (2,000 hours total):


1. Blacks are really nice. I mean, 50% better? Concerts (Pink and Killers) look really good. Movies are crazy better. This is by far the biggest thing that jumps out to me.


2. Noise. My 6100 I test drove had a loud fan in normal lamp mode and the iris was like a key on a blackboard. Really bad. The new 8350 is as quiet as my Z5 in A1 mode when it is set in normal mode and with the iris on normal speed. Huge improvement over the 6100. Push on Z5.


3. Colors. I used the settings on projector central for both cinema and dynamic mode. Both look much better and I thought my Z5 had good colors.


4. Sports Mode/Dynamic mode: When using the projector central settings, sports take on a new life. Basketball and football look almost real without the typical blowout of a dynamic mode. Very nice option. I have a bat cave too.


5. Screendoor. None from 10 feet and closer. I could see it at this range with my Z5.


6. Sharpness. I will give my Z5 the edge on small letters and type over the 8350. Not sure why but the menu does not look as sharp. I think the full picture looks about the same but smoother with the 8350 due to its ability to do 1080i and 1080p. I also see no motion problems with sports or on my PS3 games. Convergence looks good and I do not see an redness in the corners on white screen. Fingers crossed.


7. Value. For $1,099 to my door and a fairly liberal replacement policy with Epson, it seems like a really good buy.


Overall, I give this projector a 9/10. Very pleased with my upgrade. Anyone want a nice Z5?


----------



## 3Aims




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19590182
> 
> 
> I don't hear the iris at all. My projector sits about 8 feet above my head.
> 
> 
> How far is the projector from your head?



Agreed. Mine is totally silent.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AKg907* /forum/post/19590652
> 
> 
> It is sitting on a shelf about 4 feet above my head



On very quiet passages, when the picture changes from dark to light or vise versa, I can hear the iris. It doesn't sound that loud since the drone of the fan masks most of the iris sound but I can hear it if I get 4 feet from the projector. At 8 feet, I hear nothing on the same passages.


----------



## Bacchus

Got mine during the week. Was going to work on mounting it up today. Alas, the Omnimount that was up there for my Infocus 4805 is not big enough. And, unfortunately, the mount that came with it as part of the package from Visual Apex is a flush mount, and i have a drop ceiling. Ugh.


Now I have to rig something up. Dang.


----------



## loewenmark

Is there any major drawbacks from using the zoom at or near the max 2.1x? I have a very short room.. 8ft. And in order to get a 80" screen i would need to zoom it to appx 2.0x. I will also be using the horizontal lens shift to max as well.


I am willing to go smaller if need be... but i was hoping to get a 80" screen if it doesnt affect the quality too much?


any info would be great.


----------



## soutthpaw

I finished installing my 8350 today and just finished the screen, I went with the Do-Able Board from the local home depot. its now $20 a sheet with tax. also got some Molding to go around the edge which I stained black just did the ol drywall plugs and screws to install screen and finish nailer with a coat of wood glue for the trim. I'm just under 100" for screen size. I made my own ceiling mount out of 1/4" solid Aluminum plate and some steel brackets of an old electric wheelchair I had sitting around... It has twin sliding channels with 2 bolts on each side for adjustment so very strong and secure while not costing me anything to build it. I can do pics if anyone is interested. Just wondering if there is anyone in the Colorado Springs, CO area that might be willing to help me calibrate it. I have red green colorblindness so trying to set it myself to where it looks good for people with normal vision is hopeless... I'm gonna order the Avia disk next week for calibration stuff...

Movies via directv look great so far but this is my first projector so nothing to compare it to. Have not hooked up PS3 to it yet.. will try that this weekend... Thanks again for the replies and the DIY screen suggestions...


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19591817
> 
> 
> I finished installing my 8350 today and just finished the screen, I went with the Do-Able Board from the local home depot. its now $20 a sheet with tax. also got some Molding to go around the edge which I stained black just did the ol drywall plugs and screws to install screen and finish nailer with a coat of wood glue for the trim. I'm just under 100" for screen size. I made my own ceiling mount out of 1/4" solid Aluminum plate and some steel brackets of an old electric wheelchair I had sitting around... It has twin sliding channels with 2 bolts on each side for adjustment so very strong and secure while not costing me anything to build it. I can do pics if anyone is interested. Just wondering if there is anyone in the Colorado Springs, CO area that might be willing to help me calibrate it. I have red green colorblindness so trying to set it myself to where it looks good for people with normal vision is hopeless... I'm gonna order the Avia disk next week for calibration stuff...
> 
> Movies via directv look great so far but this is my first projector so nothing to compare it to. Have not hooked up PS3 to it yet.. will try that this weekend... Thanks again for the replies and the DIY screen suggestions...



It seems these projectors come fairly well calibrated out of the box. Just purchased mine a week ago and the only changes I made were the ones from projectorcentral.com's review.


"To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."


Haven't touched the color settings. Also for calibrating, if you still choose to do so. The Disney World of Wonder Blueray seems to be getting a lot of positive feedback. May consider that an option as well. Good Luck.


----------



## Vracer111

Just upgraded to the 8350 from an Epson HC 720 mid week from the Projector People sale...very nice improvement! Need to get a high quality HDMI cable though as I'm seeing the same small issues as I've had with the HC 720 - color banding on some animation titles (where there shouldn't be any I believe) and faint image ghosting/noise artifacts most noticeable when going from action sceens to a black screen. Avatar Blu-Ray re-release that I just got in was the first viewing after testing, and the image is *Beautiful*, the HC 720 just cannot compare. Took a while to get X-Box 360 setup to project in 1080p (dumb auto display detection needs to be switched off otherwise can't select 1080p)...but finally I have Halo Reach in 1080p!


I find the auto iris very audible and distracting in Cinema/low power so I leave it turned off (projector is about 2 feet above and 2 feet behind). Plan on going from current 92" fixed frame Elite screen to a DIY S-I-L-V-E-R painted screen at 105", throw will be the same 15'. Pretty soon I'll calibrate it with the THX calibration menu found on PIXAR or Starwars DVD, but out the box setting is nice indeed.


Just demoed some of Quantum of Solace for film based media and it did a great job. In addition to the improved contrast and black levels (very noticeable in the opening song) the 1080p/24hz double frame is a big improvement over 720P/60hz single frame for motion. Very much loving this bang for the buck Epson 8350 projector!


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *loewenmark* /forum/post/19591631
> 
> 
> Is there any major drawbacks from using the zoom at or near the max 2.1x? I have a very short room.. 8ft. And in order to get a 80" screen i would need to zoom it to appx 2.0x. I will also be using the horizontal lens shift to max as well.
> 
> 
> I am willing to go smaller if need be... but i was hoping to get a 80" screen if it doesnt affect the quality too much?
> 
> 
> any info would be great.



Your situation is exactly like mine!!!


My 8350 has an 8ft throw on a 9.5ft room. I also use 2.0 zoom to get about 83".


Don't worry, it will look very good! Mine does. I have an 8ft ceiling as well and have the projector on a shelf on the wall. Not ceiling mounted as I have a ceiling fan. So I'm not using as much vertical shift as you will....just a little. Still it projects a nice sharp image....I still notive a tiny little soft area that could be a little harder to focus at such a max zoom but its nothing to write home about...really.


Enjoy!!


----------



## pinball_guy17

My 8350 is great...

It flips out on white web pages: horizontal lines and goes on and off....Anyone else have this issue?

I'm using the HDMI connection on my video card...Going to try the DVI once I get the cable I need.


----------



## loewenmark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19592345
> 
> 
> Your situation is exactly like mine!!!
> 
> 
> My 8350 has an 8ft throw on a 9.5ft room. I also use 2.0 zoom to get about 83".
> 
> 
> Don't worry, it will look very good! Mine does. I have an 8ft ceiling as well and have the projector on a shelf on the wall. Not ceiling mounted as I have a ceiling fan. So I'm not using as much vertical shift as you will....just a little. Still it projects a nice sharp image....I still notive a tiny little soft area that could be a little harder to focus at such a max zoom but its nothing to write home about...really.
> 
> 
> Enjoy!!



Thanks so much very answering my questions.. I was a bit worried id be watching it on a 60" screen.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AKg907* /forum/post/19590121
> 
> 
> I started noticing the sound of the dynamic iris during the quiet scenes of movies. I talked to a person at Epson about it(who I could tell was not a tech) and they said that is was the normal mechanical operation sound of the dynamic iris. Granted the sound is not that loud, but I do notice it. It is louder than the fans. So...is this the normal operation sound of the iris? Am I being too picky?



I've experience with 3 of these units - mine and 2 friends. I can hear the iris on all of them in certain conditions. From 4 feet I think you will hear the iris at times. My pj is about 5 ft. over my head, and I seem to hear it during opening titles with a mostly black screen and no or little audio.


It doesn't bother me, but I keep the iris off usually for other reasons than a slight noise.


John F


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *loewenmark* /forum/post/19593357
> 
> 
> Thanks so much very answering my questions.. I was a bit worried id be watching it on a 60" screen.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Be sure to leave room for ventilation behind the projector because that is where the fresh air intake is located.


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19557124
> 
> 
> Those pics look really nice. Makes me consider this silver fire mix even more. Looks like a good complement to this very bright PJ!!
> 
> 
> Thanx for sharing M-Man!



Thanks for posting the pics MM! I have not been here in awhile...so I did not know these were up until the other day.


I LOVE my screen and my room.


For those who asked, the room is around 12 feet wide with the projector hung about 12 feet back from the screen.


MM...it was great having dinner with you!


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19556205
> 
> 
> Yes indeed.
> 
> 
> Below are some images of a recently completed Theater Room w/ 110" diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 on Sintra @ approx 1.3 gain being graced by the services of a 8350
> 
> 
> First are two images of the Screen/Room/degree of ambient / directed lighting present during most of the following shots. The Room has Floods almost directly above the screen, and a White Drop ceiling extremely close to the Screen as well. Hardly ideal, yet the 8350 / screen combo handles it all.
> 
> 
> FYI...all shots are "moving" images...no paused set-ups
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Under Flash*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Very High Ambient Light w/Flood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Dark room shots*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Side Shots at 80 degrees off axis*



And just to let people know, the screen looks even better than the pics!


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19557228
> 
> 
> Yes Sir.
> 
> 
> Silver Fire 3.0 sprayed on by another Denver-based AVS'ers. I was graciously invited into their home to see the end results, so naturally I had my trusty little Canon Power Shot SD770 in hand.
> 
> 
> There wasn't enough time on the clock to do a decent pictorial because I was also being treated to this Monster;
> 
> 
> The "Mile High" Burger.



What you didn't mention is the 12 hot wings you had before the 1 pound burger was brought to the table!!!


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19593624
> 
> 
> I've experience with 3 of these units - mine and 2 friends. I can hear the iris on all of them in certain conditions. From 4 feet I think you will hear the iris at times. My pj is about 5 ft. over my head, and I seem to hear it during opening titles with a mostly black screen and no or little audio.
> 
> 
> It doesn't bother me, but I keep the iris off usually for other reasons than a slight noise.
> 
> 
> John F



Can the iris be manually set at a certain point. I dont mind loss of brightness as my image is going to be only 80" as I dont have much throw distance. In fact reduction of brightness is the main reason I am thinking of using the iris. The PJ will be table mounted and will be some 4 ft in front of me. So I certainly dont like to leave the dynamic iris on due to the noise. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.


----------



## vullcan

Losing focus?


It seems my focus gets thrown off daily, by a tiny little bit, and if I let it go for a few days without refocusing, a text document is slightly blurry.


Is the auto iris throwing it off? What could be the culprit?


Thanks.


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jfried*
I've experience with 3 of these units - mine and 2 friends. I can hear the iris on all of them in certain conditions. From 4 feet I think you will hear the iris at times. My pj is about 5 ft. over my head, and I seem to hear it during opening titles with a mostly black screen and no or little audio.


It doesn't bother me, but I keep the iris off usually for other reasons than a slight noise.


John F
Same here.


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *vullcan*
Losing focus?


It seems my focus gets thrown off daily, by a tiny little bit, and if I let it go for a few days without refocusing, a text document is slightly blurry.


Is the auto iris throwing it off? What could be the culprit?


Thanks.
Try focusing it after it's warmed up. I don't have that problem, but a buddy has a pj that would do that if focused cold.


----------



## AKg907

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
On very quiet passages, when the picture changes from dark to light or vise versa, I can hear the iris. It doesn't sound that loud since the drone of the fan masks most of the iris sound but I can hear it if I get 4 feet from the projector. At 8 feet, I hear nothing on the same passages.
I think that is the same sound I'm hearing. I'm running my projector on ecomode so the fans are very quiet and I can't hear them. However, I hear the iris. It is the Same thing -from dark to light scenes -I kind hear the iris working when my speakers are quiet. At first I did'nt notice it, but now my ears are tuned to it. I was just trying to verify on this forum that the mechanical noise is normal.


----------



## Ix

For what it's worth I noticed mine was hard to focus at first until it had been running about 20 minutes or so, then I was able to dial it in and leave it.


----------



## Opus33

After reading pages of this thread I went to HHGreg on BlackFriday with my coupon and picked one up but now I've had a chance to take it out and play with it, the size of this thing makes my old 3-point mount holding my IN76 look seriously inadequate.


Is there a consensus as to the best mount for this projector?


Thx


----------



## expertmech

_*

OH


MY


GOD



IT'S ALIVE*_















Man, this is really the 1st time I've seen a projector in a home. Close up. and I didn't want to leave it... I didn't want to leave even for a beer. Or bathroom.


After just standing there in awe with my mouth wide open for about a half hour, I called up to my wife..."ummmm, hun... come here a sec"


She's comes down and say's............................. "Talk about excess."


uhhhhhh, yeah.


But, then she say's "so we can watch a movie.... with popcorn and everything".....



So at 12 ft throw I had the screen +100 and I can't see dialing it down that much at this point... W O W!!!!!! I started off thinking 84''.


The wall is very dark right now and I can actually see maybe roller marks...

When I'm done the walls and ceiling will be a dark taupe and the Screen will be a sprayed RSMaxxMud..


I need to get better pics somehow. I'll try again for the games tomorrow..


Thinking I may hold off screen painting till the MNF game at this point maybe next weekend.










.. and hook up some temporary sound. I'll gladly listen to the radio for MNF.


J E T S!!!!


----------



## Bacchus

I'm going through the same shock and awe as others. I just got it fired up. And OH MY GOD was the same thing I thought.


I was going from an Infocus 4805 with 2500 hours on the bulb and an Elite motorized screen, to the 8350 with a 100" Visual Apex fixed screen. I had to make a plate to adapt the projector to the existing Omnimount that was in place, finish wiring some of the speakers, put the screen together, hang it, center it, level it, etc. etc.


I put in Avatar Blu-Ray. Oh my. My wife is not home. She's not going to believe it. I told her that the picture was going to be light years better. I told her she would love it. She didn't believe me. She will absolutely love it. I'm watching scenes from the movie and I don't even have the sound on at this point. It's just fabulous.


----------



## Bacchus

I'm dumb. I can't find the recommended baseline settings at Projector Central. Anyone have a direct link?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Well i just got my 2nd 8350 today and its doin the same thing as the first one. On live action movies on peoples faces and some backgrounds theres a static/noise/graininess and its noticeable. My screen is about 134in diagonal and projector is 14ft away and running from my ps3 and i watch movies in livingroom mode bcuz i like the brightness and colors. So now im real confused and thinking about taking it back and keeping the hc720. If anybody else has or does see this problem also please let me know what to do or not to do.


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19577580
> 
> 
> That'll work. Do you have attic access above? If so there is a better way.
> 
> 
> What mount do you have?



Hey MM, what's the better way? My projector is going to have to be flush mounted, so I was just going to make a box out of MDF and sheetrock over it. I liked that route because I can hide the power and video cables too.


EDIT: I haven't bought the mount yet either.


----------



## justinbwhite

Well I made it, I read every post of this thread. I am buying my first projector and after reading 1945 posts I am convinced that the 8350 is the right one. Managed to get it on order from Amazon a week or so ago for $1089. Now that I know I made the right choice, I can't wait for it to get here.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

Got mine tonight! Built the screen in about 45 minutes and right now have everything setup temporarily. Have the sound and such running through the ht-s5300. This looks/sounds even better than I imagined! Will be posting pictures tomorrow. Few questions.


1. anyways to change the screen through the menus? I use the focus/zoom/lens shift obviously, but anything in the menu? Also it looks like the image is a little slanted almost or sort of curved at the bottom? Is this normal? Or is this just the angle it's on? I'm a little nervous right now my screen seems slightly angled, so I'll have to do some tweaking see if I can work out the problems. Either way it looks incredible!


----------



## snoopy555




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19595887
> 
> 
> Well i just got my 2nd 8350 today and its doin the same thing as the first one. On live action movies on peoples faces and some backgrounds theres a static/noise/graininess and its noticeable. My screen is about 134in diagonal and projector is 14ft away and running from my ps3 and i watch movies in livingroom mode bcuz i like the brightness and colors. So now im real confused and thinking about taking it back and keeping the hc720. If anybody else has or does see this problem also please let me know what to do or not to do.



Did your get a different blu-ray player to test 8350?

and test your pic at 100 and 120 size.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Whiteshirtkyd: There are no keystoning adjustments in the menus, for good reason - they are not compatible with excellent picture quality. The projector axis needs to be accurately perpendicular to the plane of the screen, NOT aimed at its center - offsets are handled by lens shift. You also need to adjust the feet, rotating the projector around its axis to have the top of the image parallel to the top of the screen. If you get these two things right, the image won't look slanted, or angled. I use a carpenter's square against the back wall and the projector's case both vertically and horizontally; this wouldn't be so easy on a rounded projector like the Samsung. Also, confirm with a tape measure if your back wall is actually parallel with the screen. Hope this helps.


Kevin


----------



## soutthpaw

here is a pic of the mount I made for my PJ that I explained in an earlier post and a pic of the DIY screen









My celing is not level but Screen is...




















Kevin, thanks for the info on Keystone adjustment, I wondered why I did not see that in the menus


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19593713
> 
> 
> Can the iris be manually set at a certain point. I dont mind loss of brightness as my image is going to be only 80" as I dont have much throw distance. In fact reduction of brightness is the main reason I am thinking of using the iris. The PJ will be table mounted and will be some 4 ft in front of me. So I certainly dont like to leave the dynamic iris on due to the noise. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.



Here's the truth,


The use of a High Contrast Gray Screen will both deliver you the excellent Blacks you seek as well as negate the need for employing the Auto Iris.


In over 5 years and many similarly equipped PJs of various Mfg, I have never used such a feature, preferring to let the Native Contrast receive a perceived boost from the Screen itself. This always results in better shadow detail and Color "PoP" & "Sizzle", but without undue brightness.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19596820
> 
> 
> here is a pic of the mount I made for my PJ that I explained in an earlier post and a pic of the DIY screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My celing is not level but Screen is...
> 
> 
> Kevin, thanks for the info on Keystone adjustment, I wondered why I did not see that in the menus



will this red haze will disappear?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Looks like we are gonna have another Silver Fire user!!!


I am excited about doing it in my 82" screen! Can't wait to make mine!


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So is it ok to run this thing for 5+ hours? I wanna watch football today, and the family has asked me to get everything going on the projector. I setup the Direct TV and it looks amazing, but don't wanna overdo it with the bulb. Basically on average, not worried about bulb life, how often should I run it, and how long?


edit- also what's the difference between auto and manual iris? Appreciate the help


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bacchus* /forum/post/19595877
> 
> 
> I'm dumb. I can't find the recommended baseline settings at Projector Central. Anyone have a direct link?



Use the one for Cinema for a light controlled room to watch movies.


http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


.


----------



## 3Aims

Any suggestions for the sharpness setting or other small tweaks?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So is it ok to run this thing for 5+ hours? I wanna watch football today, and the family has asked me to get everything going on the projector. I setup the Direct TV and it looks amazing, but don't wanna overdo it with the bulb. Basically on average, not worried about bulb life, how often should I run it, and how long?
> 
> 
> edit- also what's the difference between auto and manual iris? Appreciate the help



For sure. 5 hours is fine. I think it recommend to do some >3hr sessions first. I've done some 7+ hr viewings on mine already, no problems.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19597429
> 
> 
> So is it ok to run this thing for 5+ hours? I wanna watch football today, and the family has asked me to get everything going on the projector. I setup the Direct TV and it looks amazing, but don't wanna overdo it with the bulb. Basically on average, not worried about bulb life, how often should I run it, and how long?
> 
> 
> edit- also what's the difference between auto and manual iris? Appreciate the help



It should be OK provided you have enough cooling.


Auto-Iris is when the PJ automatically opens or closes the iris to control light emitted to the screen and maximize its dynamic range of contrast.


A manual Iris is when you adjust a dial to do the same. But when you set it, it just stays there. So u have to find the better balance.


The 8350 has different settings for auto-iris, but no manual iris setting.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19597206
> 
> 
> will this red haze will disappear?



Its recommended to wait about 100hrs until the bulb settles and do a proper calibration. After the bulb settles the red haze should go by itself. You could try the calibrations settings from projectorreviews.com


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19597429
> 
> 
> So is it ok to run this thing for 5+ hours? I wanna watch football today, and the family has asked me to get everything going on the projector. I setup the Direct TV and it looks amazing, but don't wanna overdo it with the bulb. Basically on average, not worried about bulb life, how often should I run it, and how long?
> 
> 
> edit- also what's the difference between auto and manual iris? Appreciate the help



Don't worry about how long you run it. Just don't leave it on for days, and make sure it's well ventilated. I have an Epson 6100 (and a Sanyo Z4 and a Z2 before that) and I run mine anywhere from 6-8 hours a day, and anywhere from 12-15 hours on weekends. The main thing is once you turn it on, leave it on til you're done for the day. Don't be turning it on and off.


----------



## ChiefJC

I agree you shouldn't turn it off and on like a tv. However if your not gonna use it again for 2+ hours IMO you should turn it off. I've alway heard powering it up uses ~20 min of bulb life every time you start it up. So keep that in mind. Also the main concern for powering it back up is to ensure the bulb has returned to room temp. In most cases that's around 30 minutes.


I use the 2 hour rule, seems easier to decide if I need to turn it off or not.


----------



## Bacchus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19597678
> 
> 
> Use the one for Cinema for a light controlled room to watch movies.
> 
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php
> 
> 
> .



Oh, okay. I thought everyone said the settings were at project central.


----------



## rraulston

when I calibrated my dynamic mode then go calibrate another mode, how do I save them??? It seems like when I change 1 all the others change as well......I must be missing somthing simple........Thanks


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rraulston* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> when I calibrated my dynamic mode then go calibrate another mode, how do I save them??? It seems like when I change 1 all the others change as well......I must be missing somthing simple........Thanks



You change modes with the color button, then adjust that mode, then save it to memory. Repeat for all modes desired.


Remember to view these modes you have to load from memory, not the default color modes.


----------



## jpbledsoe

Any ideas about how to increase the range of the 8350's remote to 50' or so?


Will 90' long null modem cables work?


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19593713
> 
> 
> Can the iris be manually set at a certain point. I dont mind loss of brightness as my image is going to be only 80" as I dont have much throw distance. In fact reduction of brightness is the main reason I am thinking of using the iris. The PJ will be table mounted and will be some 4 ft in front of me. So I certainly dont like to leave the dynamic iris on due to the noise. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.



anybody?


----------



## typeSter

Problems fixed!

Denon AVR 3806 hdmi switching from ps3 blu-ray movies or directv hddvr to Epson 8350 projector. I could not get the video signal to display properly, either there would be no signal or the picture would be all pink/magenta.

The fix was to update the firmware on the Denon 3806.


Here is my post in the Denon owners forum where I found out how to do the firmware upgrade.


Thanks to this forum I just updated my firmware on my denon AVR 3806. I used a usb to serial cable from Best Buy on my mac pro with windows xp running in parallels. Once I found the right com port it was quick and easy. It was com port 5 for some reason.

Anyways I think the sound is fuller or more rich right off the bat but most importantly for me is now all my hdmi switching problems are gone.

I couldn't get any blu-ray or my directv hddvr to work properly with my Epson 8350 projector. I would either get no signal or the picture would be all pink! The weird thing was it worked fine with 2 different Samsung TV's just not the projector so I was convinced it was my projector. The firmware update was more of a hail Mary for me after 2 weeks of research and not finding a single post on my exact same problem. Not that there aren't any out there...I just got tired of looking.

Thank you all for your work here.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any ideas about how to increase the range of the 8350's remote to 50' or so?
> 
> 
> Will 90' long null modem cables work?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



I use an ir repeater, junction box connected to all my devices. Main IR eye is below my center channel speaker. I just used cat5 cable from my av cabinet to main eye, and cat5 again to my pj to connect the leg ir receiver to the pj.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19598136
> 
> 
> I agree you shouldn't turn it off and on like a tv. However if your not gonna use it again for 2+ hours IMO you should turn it off. I've alway heard powering it up uses ~20 min of bulb life every time you start it up. So keep that in mind. Also the main concern for powering it back up is to ensure the bulb has returned to room temp. In most cases that's around 30 minutes.
> 
> 
> I use the 2 hour rule, seems easier to decide if I need to turn it off or not.



If I freeze whatever I'm watching and know I'm going to be gone for 30 mins or so, I usually push the 'Blank' button. Don't know if its good or bad, and it probably doesn't matter, but it just feels right. Any thoughts?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If I freeze whatever I'm watching and know I'm going to be gone for 30 mins or so, I usually push the 'Blank' button. Don't know if its good or bad, and it probably doesn't matter, but it just feels right. Any thoughts?



Lol, I've done that a time or too as well. Must be habit from having plasmas in the upstairs.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/19598607
> 
> 
> Any ideas about how to increase the range of the 8350's remote to 50' or so?
> 
> 
> Will 90' long null modem cables work?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Okay, I'll bite.... why would you need to get to 50+ feet? I'm 100% sure that there's a blantantly obvious reason that I've missed, but I can't for the life of me think of one!










Also, what pieces of equipment are you contemplating running the null modem cable between?


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19598665
> 
> 
> anybody?



The 8350 does not have a manual iris


MississippiMan gave you the best answer at the top of this page.


If don't like the idea of a painted DIY screen, you can get an ND2 filter too.


----------



## cmacclel

I picked up 8350 at BB 2 days ago and got to play with it tonight. I was pretty impressed until I saw horrid verticle banding. I have it connected to a ps3 via component cable. I'll have to play with it more tomorrow, but as of now if the banding is not a cable problem it will be getting returned.


Mac


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/19598001
> 
> 
> Don't worry about how long you run it. Just don't leave it on for days, and make sure it's well ventilated. I have an Epson 6100 (and a Sanyo Z4 and a Z2 before that) and I run mine anywhere from 6-8 hours a day, and anywhere from 12-15 hours on weekends. The main thing is once you turn it on, leave it on til you're done for the day. Don't be turning it on and off.



Great thanks man, felt a little OCD/nervous about it for a while. So what's well ventiLated? The thing is basically propped up on a table right now as a temporary setup, there's nothing around it at all, so I'm assuming it should be fine.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19600220
> 
> 
> I picked up 8350 at BB 2 days ago and got to play with it tonight. I was pretty impressed until I saw horrid verticle banding. I have it connected to a ps3 via component cable. I'll have to play with it more tomorrow, but as of now if the banding is not a cable problem it will be getting returned.
> 
> 
> Mac



Have are tried hdmi from the ps3 to the projector?


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19600263
> 
> 
> Have are tried hdmi from the ps3 to the projector?



and doesn't the ps3 have to be set to a 24htz video output?


----------



## cmacclel

Projector seems like it's defective as I get the same exact banding through component and PC ports with two different sources. I hook up my old crap 480p Viewsonic with the same sources and it looks fine.











Banding


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19600317
> 
> 
> Projector seems like it's defective as I get the same exact banding through component and PC ports with two different sources. I hook up my old crap 480p Viewsonic with the same sources and it looks fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Banding




Time for this one to go back........soon.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19600370
> 
> 
> Time for this one to go back........soon.



I really hope something like this doesn't happen with mine (not that anyone would) but it is a week+ in travel time to get my projector here. I couldnt imagine having to send it back, wait a week, and then wait another week to get a replacement.


----------



## cmacclel

The thing that gets me is the fact I picked this up from the Best Buy store 45 minutes away from me and had to wait 45 minutes in a line of *3* people to pick it up. Everyone was yelling and screaming for the manager as 45 minutes to pick up on online purchase was rediculous!


Maybe I will just call Epson and see of they will overnight me a replacment........as they should.


Mac


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19597206
> 
> 
> will this red haze will disappear?










Ah the joys of colorblindness







, what red haze are you referring to, as I can get this same image up any time and compare. can you explain where in the image it is.

Here is a great website to see how I and other colorblind folks see the world. you can upload an image and it will show you the side by side of the colorblind version and the original image which when I look at them they both look the same. whenever we are choosing colors for painting the house or picking drapes, flooring etc. I always upload pics of the color samples and run Vischeck on the image and then show my wife and it blows her away....
http://www.vischeck.com/vischeck/ 


they also have a free plugin for you Photoshop folks...


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19600317
> 
> 
> Projector seems like it's defective as I get the same exact banding through component and PC ports with two different sources. I hook up my old crap 480p Viewsonic with the same sources and it looks fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Banding



What's you pc monitor refresh rate?

Have you tried changing it to see if the banding changes or goes away?


Also, what resolution are you sending from the pc?


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19596971
> 
> 
> Here's the truth,
> 
> 
> The use of a High Contrast Gray Screen will both deliver you the excellent Blacks you seek as well as negate the need for employing the Auto Iris.
> 
> 
> In over 5 years and many similarly equipped PJs of various Mfg, I have never used such a feature, preferring to let the Native Contrast receive a perceived boost from the Screen itself. This always results in better shadow detail and Color "PoP" & "Sizzle", but without undue brightness.



Thanks for the reply. I didn't notice your reply with all the screen shots  So bumped my post. So are you saying that it is possible to just shut the auto iris off. I dont mind if there is no manual iris if I can just shut the auto iris off. Does the 8700 have manual iris so that I can fix it to cut the brightness. Just curious.


I am using Infocus IN72 now on off white wall surrounded by black DIY panels for contrast. It has over 4000 hrs (touch wood) and in spite of the ND2 filter the image is way too bright for me.


----------



## hokieirish

Hey guys, I've read approximately 75% of this thread and had decided I wanted to get this projector next June when I'll be moving into a house. Currently, I'm in an apartment.


A couple weeks ago, my TV started having a green tint to it and it has progressively gotten worse. Some colors look fine, others just have a tint to them. Most tv shows look like they were shot in the desert. The picture clairty is still excellent; it's a 55" Sony LCD, about 4 years old. But, the color issue is kind of driving me nuts.


I've started thinking about replacing the Sony with the 8350, but I don't really have the ability or the funds to get a nice screen for it liked I'd planned to do next year. So here's the question. Do you think I could table mount the projector and shoot it on my white wall? It's just regular white paint and the special screen paint isn't an option. Would it be worth it to do this or would the picture quality be poor without a nice screen? I don't want to buy the projector because my tv looks bad only for the projector to look bad too.


If it matters, my throw distance would be about 10-11 feet. The room is fairly well light controlled. Only one window but it has blinds.


----------



## nobuyersremorse

The projector central throw calculator says I can go as short as 11'8' throw for a 119" screen... My set-up allows just a couple inches over a 12' throw from lens to screen. Will this max zoom hurt the pq of my set-up or will I still get a great pq?


----------



## soutthpaw

See the DIY screen Forum FAQ thread, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646534 

Thats what I did and went with the Do-Able board idea for $20 plus $30 for the molding around the edge. there are several other suggestions too and I also noticed today that Lowes carries a similar board though it seems more glossy... my setup is posted on a page or two back


----------



## stim

How far off should the convergence be? My projector looks to be about one vertical pixel off on red and two on blue.


I have one day left to exchange the unit at best buy. Any chance I would get one right on or do they all have slight convergence issues?


----------



## BBQ7

Anyone using a high end external video processor with this projector and if so how much of a difference does it make?


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stim* /forum/post/19601061
> 
> 
> How far off should the convergence be? My projector looks to be about one vertical pixel off on red and two on blue.
> 
> 
> I have one day left to exchange the unit at best buy. Any chance I would get one right on or do they all have slight convergence issues?



Its almost impossible to have a unit with no convergence or panel misalignment and even then it might be like half a pixel off.


I think the spec is no more than one pixel off on each side, but other may help more here. Mine is one pixel off on red too. But don't notice it from viewing distance since my screen size is 82".


----------



## prggr

So with my 2.5 pixel red and 2 pixel green shift, I should bug Epson for a replacement? I finally mounted it on my wall last night and was able to see how it looked with a 115" picture- I can definitely see the red and green edging on the right side when seated.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prggr* /forum/post/19601711
> 
> 
> So with my 2.5 pixel red and 2 pixel green shift, I should bug Epson for a replacement? I finally mounted it on my wall last night and was able to see how it looked with a 115" picture- I can definitely see the red and green edging on the right side when seated.



I definitely would!!


----------



## cmacclel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prggr* /forum/post/19601711
> 
> 
> So with my 2.5 pixel red and 2 pixel green shift, I should bug Epson for a replacement? I finally mounted it on my wall last night and was able to see how it looked with a 115" picture- I can definitely see the red and green edging on the right side when seated.



How do you check this?


----------



## cmacclel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19600486
> 
> 
> What's you pc monitor refresh rate?
> 
> Have you tried changing it to see if the banding changes or goes away?
> 
> 
> Also, what resolution are you sending from the pc?




The refresh rate is the standard 60hz the resolution sent is 1920 x 1080.


Mac


----------



## prggr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19601826
> 
> 
> How do you check this?



Take a walk up to the screen and take a look.










I have my PC hooked up to it, and one really simple test was just to use a black background and move my white mouse cursor around. It's pretty obvious seeing the red and green shift in my case. Up close you can see the individual pixels, so I'm estimating.


This is my first projector, so wasn't quite sure how tight the tolerances were.. I'd have no issue with a half pixel shift, but mine is far enough where any large white on the right half of the screen in bordered by red/green.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19601826
> 
> 
> How do you check this?



You can check convergence on your PJ with a cross-hash pattern against a white surface.


or also connect your computer, open up a notepad and fill the sceen with text...look closely to the letters and you'll see.


----------



## stim

If I change to an input with no video, the bottom of the no input message has one row of pixels that are green after all of the white pixels there is a row of red then a row of blue on top.


Are you guys seeing the same thing? I want the best possible picture, but don't want to waste time exchanging it if the issue will be the same or worse.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stim* /forum/post/19602909
> 
> 
> If I change to an input with no video, the bottom of the no input message has one row of pixels that are green after all of the white pixels there is a row of red then a row of blue on top.
> 
> 
> Are you guys seeing the same thing? I want the best possible picture, but don't want to waste time exchanging it if the issue will be the same or worse.



what you are seeing is panel misalignment or panel misconvergence. If you see only one line of pixels, my guess is that is within manufacturing tolerances. You don't see it when watching normal content do you?


----------



## stim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19602920
> 
> 
> what you are seeing is panel misalignment or panel misconvergence. If you see only one line of pixels, my guess is that is within manufacturing tolerances. You don't see it when watching normal content do you?



Well I think it's really 3 rows off -- green is a row low and blue is 2 rows high.


With normal video I don't notice the colors, but the picture does seem slightly soft.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hokieirish* /forum/post/19600629
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I've read approximately 75% of this thread and had decided I wanted to get this projector next June when I'll be moving into a house. Currently, I'm in an apartment.
> 
> 
> A couple weeks ago, my TV started having a green tint to it and it has progressively gotten worse. Some colors look fine, others just have a tint to them. Most tv shows look like they were shot in the desert. The picture clairty is still excellent; it's a 55" Sony LCD, about 4 years old. But, the color issue is kind of driving me nuts.
> 
> 
> I've started thinking about replacing the Sony with the 8350, but I don't really have the ability or the funds to get a nice screen for it liked I'd planned to do next year. So here's the question. Do you think I could table mount the projector and shoot it on my white wall? It's just regular white paint and the special screen paint isn't an option. Would it be worth it to do this or would the picture quality be poor without a nice screen? I don't want to buy the projector because my tv looks bad only for the projector to look bad too.
> 
> 
> If it matters, my throw distance would be about 10-11 feet. The room is fairly well light controlled. Only one window but it has blinds.



Do it. Even in your current situation you'll be so happy you did!


----------



## James Thorne

Just a 'me too' post but just had to say how pleased I am with this new projector.


Just hung it yesterday where our PLV-70 has racked up over 20,000 hours since 2002.


WOW, what an upgrade. The color and contrast is a major improvement. The better resolution is nice too but mostly only noticable closer to the screen. But again, WOW, its like having a 120" plasma in the living room.


Watched our first film on it last night "Christmas Carol" with Jim Carry. The detail in the dark scenes was amazing, never knew what we were missing.


Oh and a quick thank you for fast shipping and a perfect, uneventful transaction from VisualApex. (via amazon market for free 12mo financing).



I do have a quick question though. I was trying to use the basic setup recomendations from projector central and got them all set except for Epson Superwhite Mode. On my menu its not selectable ie grayed out. I am using component input, at 1080i from a Tivo and Natural mode if it matters. Is this mode not available unless something else is set?


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *James Thorne* /forum/post/19603341
> 
> 
> Oh and a quick thank you for fast shipping and a perfect, uneventful transaction from VisualApex. (via amazon market for free 12mo financing).



Could you please elaborate on how to purchase through AMZN Market in order to get the 12 month financing? - I searched but came up empty handed.


[Given that Visual Apex is a site sponsor, I presume that this type of question is acceptable - it's truly not my intent to offend or infringe regs]


_Edit: Just found the VA Marketplace page at Amazon - thanks for the heads up on going this route!_


----------



## jpbledsoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/19599250
> 
> 
> Okay, I'll bite.... why would you need to get to 50+ feet? I'm 100% sure that there's a blantantly obvious reason that I've missed, but I can't for the life of me think of one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what pieces of equipment are you contemplating running the null modem cable between?



Thanks for asking.


It's an auditorium; the av booth is 40-50 feet behind the projector. The cable run through the ceiling could be up to 90'. We'd control the serial interface from a PC.


We're on s-video (horrible source I know!) now but will be upgrading in the next week or so to HDMI from the PC's DVI output, via the Kramer 640T/R coax extenders (supplier was late providing the extenders). Using the IR extension function (for this application) in the 640T/R is another method I need to ask Kramer about.


Funny how the prior Epson projector's remote worked from the sound booth (we tried an EX-31 and took it back for a refund). I need to "level" the 8350 to adjust position and fix keystoning. That "might" solve the remote range problem by allowing better line-of-sight access to the 8350's IR sensor.


Jeff


----------



## ramosma

I got Kinect when it came out, paired it with the Epson 8350. Works pretty well but you need the right setup.


Ideally, you have one of the following setups:


1. Rear-projecting the projector

2. Front-projecting about 12-14 feet back from screen


Otherwise your shadow will project on screen as you interact with Kinect. Kinect needs about 10-12 feet of space in front (ideally) for you to use it.


My setup is not ideal but works pretty well. My projector is mounted back about 22 feet and offset about 4-5 feet to the right, mounted about 9 feet from the floor. This was the best I could do as I can't rear project and my preference was to move it back to reduce any projector noise (minimal but I can still hear it as well as the iris changes). I get a bit of shadowing from the right player's head if its an adult when playing Kinect but its not bad (not distracting).


In terms of Kinect its pretty fun, there is no discernible lag when playing the games on the Epson. Blasting it on a 140 inch image makes it feel even more real. My kids find it a blast. You do get a workout particularly with the maze game on Kinect adventures (like the TV show Wipeout) so its passed the spousal test.


If you have visions of operating your xbox like Tom Cruise in Minority Report (flipping between screens, etc.), forget about it. Its more of a hold and recognize process takes about 5 seconds.


----------



## cmacclel

Just go off the phone with Epson and a new one will be here tomorrow. 10 minute call.....impressive customer service.


Mac


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *James Thorne* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a 'me too' post but just had to say how pleased I am with this new projector.
> 
> 
> Just hung it yesterday where our PLV-70 has racked up over 20,000 hours since 2002.
> 
> 
> WOW, what an upgrade. The color and contrast is a major improvement. The better resolution is nice too but mostly only noticable closer to the screen. But again, WOW, its like having a 120" plasma in the living room.
> 
> 
> Watched our first film on it last night "Christmas Carol" with Jim Carry. The detail in the dark scenes was amazing, never knew what we were missing.
> 
> 
> Oh and a quick thank you for fast shipping and a perfect, uneventful transaction from VisualApex. (via amazon market for free 12mo financing).
> 
> 
> I do have a quick question though. I was trying to use the basic setup recomendations from projector central and got them all set except for Epson Superwhite Mode. On my menu its not selectable ie grayed out. I am using component input, at 1080i from a Tivo and Natural mode if it matters. Is this mode not available unless something else is set?



component input is fine, but i think you need to be hdmi, the issue also might be caused by natural mode. I know it's available to me with hdmi for cinema mode., and I thought natural mode as well.


I think you need hdmi, and mode has to be below living room. Could be wrong, can't check it, as I don't have component cables.


----------



## seraphus

Got my 8350 last Friday from Amazon (cheapest online price during Thanksgiving week). Said it wasn't supposed to ship till some time after December 22. Man, I love Amazon.


This thing looks great, and has amazed me and many others. I imagine I'd be blown away again if I had an actual screen (using the wall as of now). Wondering if a blackout cloth would still look better (since it would also be portable). So far everything seems to be fine with the projector. A little warm/hot air from ventilation slots, but I suppose that's supposed to be normal. (projector is on a shelf with the back of the projector being 3-4 inches away from the wall, but open space above and to the sides.


Must not spend to much time on it right now as I have final exams this week. But at the end of this week or later I'll have definitive input lag tests (first relative to my laptop LCD, and then to a CRT if I can find one).


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stim* /forum/post/19603006
> 
> 
> Well I think it's really 3 rows off -- green is a row low and blue is 2 rows high.
> 
> 
> With normal video I don't notice the colors, but the picture does seem slightly soft.



WOW, you are the first one to report such an issue.


In that case you should contact Epson customer service. 3 rows is unacceptable.


Good luck


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19605216
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 last Friday from Amazon (cheapest online price during Thanksgiving week). Said it wasn't supposed to ship till some time after December 22. Man, I love Amazon.
> 
> 
> This thing looks great, and has amazed me and many others. I imagine I'd be blown away again if I had an actual screen (using the wall as of now). Wondering if a blackout cloth would still look better (since it would also be portable). So far everything seems to be fine with the projector. A little warm/hot air from ventilation slots, but I suppose that's supposed to be normal. (projector is on a shelf with the back of the projector being 3-4 inches away from the wall, but open space above and to the sides.
> 
> 
> Must not spend to much time on it right now as I have final exams this week. But at the end of this week or later I'll have definitive input lag tests (first relative to my laptop LCD, and then to a CRT if I can find one).




That would be great!!!


Lag tests to further confirm that this is a great projector for gaming!!


Love it on my Arkham Asylum


----------



## soutthpaw

I am wondering what color mode and setting folks have found work best for gaming in dark, and with ambient lighting. I will be using it with my PS3 and wondering if I should make a custom mode and save it for gaming... suggestions for what parameters to change would be great...


----------



## hokieirish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19603187
> 
> 
> Do it. Even in your current situation you'll be so happy you did!



You were right! I picked it up today and it's INCREDIBLE! I love it! I can't imagine how good it will look after it breaks in and has a few hours on it.


I tried doing the calibration from Art's settings and I couldn't quite get the screens he had to make the adjustments. Can anyone help me out here?


----------



## hoppss

just bought the 8350 and finished setting it up, so far so good since this is my first lcd projector (had dlp) I was wondering how tolerant the lcd are to vibration from the floor above (projector is ceiling mounted in basment with a solid mount I never had any problems with the dlp in the same location, since I'm new to the forum thanks in advance for any info and the great knowledge bass I have observed on this site


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19606153
> 
> 
> I am wondering what color mode and setting folks have found work best for gaming in dark, and with ambient lighting. I will be using it with my PS3 and wondering if I should make a custom mode and save it for gaming... suggestions for what parameters to change would be great...



I like to use natural for games


----------



## jpbledsoe

So, we have an 8350 and we're projecting on a home-made screen: wood frame topped with about 4 layers of cloth, hanging from eye-bolts mounted in the ceiling. The cloth isn't very smooth and a lot of light passes through the cloth and it's obvious that the penetration is not consistent across the cloth.


I have a feeling that even the simplest Da-Lite screen would be a big improvement over our present screen. But we want a screen that will do full justice to the 8350's HD capabilities.


We need a viewing angle of about 50 degrees and (I think) a gain of about 1.1. The area will have low ambient lighting; several windows with blinds that let in some light. My initial choice is the Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision fabric.


Any comments comparing the performance and cost of the Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision and similar screens from Stewart and Vutec are appreciated. I'm open to any suggestions and anxious to hear your experiences in comparing and choosing screens.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## swirl54

Jeff check out htdepotDOTcom great deals I have a screen from them it is awesome I think I paid 350 for a 100" grey screen with a black velvet frame. Focupix is the namebrand


----------



## fledwinter

Can anyone comment on matching the 8350 with an Elite CineTension2 CineGrey 135" diagonal screen at the 14 ft throw? Are there any better options for my situation?


SITUATION


I have a dedicated room 15' wide x 24' long with a 10' ceiling. Light beige carpeting, dark blue walls, dark brown ceiling, 10' wide bank of windows on NE wall and a 10' wide bank of windows on the NW wall. The 15' wide NE wall is where the screen will be located. I will have good light control when needed.


I would like to use a motorized 16x9 screen as wide as the windows (about 10 feet); so about 135" diagonal. The throw from lens to screen would be 14 feet based on the pre-wired location for a ceiling mounted projector.


The use will be balanced between movies (DVD), gaming (Xbox and Wii) and sports (NFL Sunday Ticket), so I want enough lumens to handle ambient light.


Thanks,


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *soutthpaw*
I am wondering what color mode and setting folks have found work best for gaming in dark, and with ambient lighting. I will be using it with my PS3 and wondering if I should make a custom mode and save it for gaming... suggestions for what parameters to change would be great...
For me playing COD, I primarily use dynamic Eco for ambient light, and either natural normal or living room Eco depending on how dark it is. I never play with cinema darkness, I like to play with quit a bit of my lights on.


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe*
So, we have an 8350 and we're projecting on a home-made screen: wood frame topped with about 4 layers of cloth, hanging from eye-bolts mounted in the ceiling. The cloth isn't very smooth and a lot of light passes through the cloth and it's obvious that the penetration is not consistent across the cloth.


I have a feeling that even the simplest Da-Lite screen would be a big improvement over our present screen. But we want a screen that will do full justice to the 8350's HD capabilities.


We need a viewing angle of about 50 degrees and (I think) a gain of about 1.1. The area will have low ambient lighting; several windows with blinds that let in some light. My initial choice is the Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision fabric.


Any comments comparing the performance and cost of the Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision and similar screens from Stewart and Vutec are appreciated. I'm open to any suggestions and anxious to hear your experiences in comparing and choosing screens.


Thanks,


Jeff
I can personally vouch for the dalite and the Stewart. I've seen both in action and you wouldn't be disappointed.


One other recommendation I would make is a Vapex screen, from visual apex. It is not quit up to the same quality as the Stewart, but still a very good screen. I did a review of my recent purchase in the screens thread. Search vapex and it should come up.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fledwinter* /forum/post/19606922
> 
> 
> Can anyone comment on matching the 8350 with an Elite CineTension2 CineGrey 135" diagonal screen at the 14 ft throw? Are there any better options for my situation?
> 
> 
> SITUATION
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated room 15' wide x 24' long with a 10' ceiling. Light beige carpeting, dark blue walls, dark brown ceiling, 10' wide bank of windows on NE wall and a 10' wide bank of windows on the NW wall. The 15' wide NE wall is where the screen will be located. I will have good light control when needed.
> 
> 
> I would like to use a motorized 16x9 screen as wide as the windows (about 10 feet); so about 135" diagonal. The throw from lens to screen would be 14 feet based on the pre-wired location for a ceiling mounted projector.
> 
> 
> The use will be balanced between movies (DVD), gaming (Xbox and Wii) and sports (NFL Sunday Ticket), so I want enough lumens to handle ambient light.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I would reccomend anyone considering White, grey, or Silver screens read THIS 


Now that youve read that i'll give my opinion, which is just that my opinion, not religion by anymeans. Typically you would want a minimum of 16ftl to consider a grey screen. With the 8350, on a 135" 1.0 gain screen @ 14' throw your would get at a max of 16 ftl, but it more likely that the gain of the cinegrey screen is closer to .9 and your viewing mode will be less than the brightest, resulting in 14/15 Ftl.


Also to consider you are using about 90% of the zoom capabilities. Which can cause other concerns.


----------



## nineset




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19605216
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 last Friday from Amazon (cheapest online price during Thanksgiving week). Said it wasn't supposed to ship till some time after December 22. Man, I love Amazon.
> 
> 
> This thing looks great, and has amazed me and many others. I imagine I'd be blown away again if I had an actual screen (using the wall as of now). Wondering if a blackout cloth would still look better (since it would also be portable). So far everything seems to be fine with the projector. A little warm/hot air from ventilation slots, but I suppose that's supposed to be normal. (projector is on a shelf with the back of the projector being 3-4 inches away from the wall, but open space above and to the sides.
> 
> 
> Must not spend to much time on it right now as I have final exams this week. But at the end of this week or later I'll have definitive input lag tests (first relative to my laptop LCD, and then to a CRT if I can find one).



What day did you order? Still impatiently waiting for mine haha


----------



## pa55ion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fledwinter* /forum/post/19606922
> 
> 
> Can anyone comment on matching the 8350 with an Elite CineTension2 CineGrey 135" diagonal screen at the 14 ft throw? Are there any better options for my situation?
> 
> 
> SITUATION
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated room 15' wide x 24' long with a 10' ceiling. Light beige carpeting, dark blue walls, dark brown ceiling, 10' wide bank of windows on NE wall and a 10' wide bank of windows on the NW wall. The 15' wide NE wall is where the screen will be located. I will have good light control when needed.
> 
> 
> I would like to use a motorized 16x9 screen as wide as the windows (about 10 feet); so about 135" diagonal. The throw from lens to screen would be 14 feet based on the pre-wired location for a ceiling mounted projector.
> 
> 
> The use will be balanced between movies (DVD), gaming (Xbox and Wii) and sports (NFL Sunday Ticket), so I want enough lumens to handle ambient light.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I have a similar setup. My dedicated room is 16' x 20' with an 8' ceiling, has dark brown walls, beige carpet and ceiling. My 8350 is ceiling mounted at 13' projecting on to a 120" Elite CineGrey fixed frame screen. Colors (including white and black), sharpness and brightness all look fantastic to me. And to my taste, the dynamic mode is way too bright, so I use cinema mode with auto iris turns off normally. That's my personal preference and experience. Hope this helps.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoppss* /forum/post/19606248
> 
> 
> just bought the 8350 and finished setting it up, so far so good since this is my first lcd projector (had dlp) I was wondering how tolerant the lcd are to vibration from the floor above (projector is ceiling mounted in basment with a solid mount I never had any problems with the dlp in the same location, since I'm new to the forum thanks in advance for any info and the great knowledge bass I have observed on this site



It should be far superior as there is no constantly moving parts in the LCD unlike a DLP which has a spinning color wheel. If the Iris is turned on then I guess you have a moving part but nothing near what a DLP has


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stim* /forum/post/19603006
> 
> 
> Well I think it's really 3 rows off -- green is a row low and blue is 2 rows high.
> 
> 
> With normal video I don't notice the colors, but the picture does seem slightly soft.



Mine is 2-3 rows off depending on location using your definition (red bleeds one pixel high, green one low, that would be 2 pixels off.) Keep in mind that the 'no input' will dim slightly after a minute or so, and it seems like the convergence error is very hard to see then. So, I think at normal viewing brightness, any convergence problem is going to be difficult to see unless it is very bad.


I'm sure not returning mine, I can't imagine a consumer PJ getting better than a couple pixels off. If it gets worse over the next 2 years, I'll put in a call.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is 2-3 rows off depending on location using your definition (red bleeds one pixel high, green one low, that would be 2 pixels off.) Keep in mind that the 'no input' will dim slightly after a minute or so, and it seems like the convergence error is very hard to see then. So, I think at normal viewing brightness, any convergence problem is going to be difficult to see unless it is very bad.
> 
> 
> I'm sure not returning mine, I can't imagine a consumer PJ getting better than a couple pixels off. If it gets worse over the next 2 years, I'll put in a call.



Definitely, I don't see any. But even if I did 2 or 3 pixels wouldn't bother me, for the price. I could also not be looking in the correct place.....but I don't see any red or green pixels around my screen...


----------



## 42Plasmaman

If anyone wants to check convergence and pixel shift, use the PATTERN button on the remote then take a real close look at the white lines on the screen pattern.


----------



## the-pred

Does anyone know if Clevland Plasma is able to ship 8350 to Canada? I asked PP and they will not.


----------



## bjdupuis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19605216
> 
> 
> Wondering if a blackout cloth would still look better (since it would also be portable).



Not sure what color your wall is but when I went from projecting onto my DIY BOC screen after projecting onto a satin light green wall the picture was definitely better.


----------



## Gary Stevens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19603753
> 
> 
> Just go off the phone with Epson and a new one will be here tomorrow. 10 minute call.....impressive customer service.
> 
> 
> Mac



I had what looks like the same problem when I got my 8350. Do the vertical lines go away if you slightly de-focus the image? If you take a piece of white paper and overlay that onto the screen, are the lines missing on the paper?


I was using a DaLite 92" Video Spectra screen and it is an interference pattern between the 1080P LCD panel of the 8350 and the grain structure of the screen. The lines will go away or at least change spacing if you zoom in or out and re-focus the new image. The only solution is to change screen material.


I did a search in the Screens forum here and the issue pops up about once a year, always (it seems) when someone gets a new 1080P projector (multiple makes) and very often with a 92" Video Spectra screen.


-Gary


----------



## fledwinter

Thanks for the replies, based on them I will do the following.


Use the Cinewhite (1.1) gain instead of grey.

Purchase an 8350 locally to test the 14ft throw. If it is an issue I will move a ceiling fan or find an alternative like the LG or BenQ.


How much convergence should be considered acceptable when I test the 8350? One pixel width seems to be the consensus.


Is anyone having good luck with an HDMI switching receiver from Pioneer or Onkyo connecting the 8350 with Wii, Xbox, PS3 and DirectTV?


----------



## azereus

Hi all,


I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now and just lately I've noticed a small circular spot towards the bottom right corner of the screen. I had hoped it was just dust on the lens so I gave that a good wiping but that didn't help at all. I can only see it on dark screens and would describe it as a light color circular spot. Based on my vague description does anyone have any idea what that could be and more importantly, how to get rid of it?


If it helps at all, my pj is mounted about 12-13 feet away and I'm projecting onto a 92" white screen.


Thanks


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fledwinter* /forum/post/19611142
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies, based on them I will do the following.
> 
> 
> Use the Cinewhite (1.1) gain instead of grey.
> 
> Purchase an 8350 locally to test the 14ft throw. If it is an issue I will move a ceiling fan or find an alternative like the LG or BenQ.
> 
> 
> How much convergence should be considered acceptable when I test the 8350? One pixel width seems to be the consensus.
> 
> 
> Is anyone having good luck with an HDMI switching receiver from Pioneer or Onkyo connecting the 8350 with Wii, Xbox, PS3 and DirectTV?



I think the spec for convergence is one pixel off but I think its best to confirm with Epson on that.


I use my 8350 with my Onkyo TX-SR705 and PS3. A very good combination.


I feel tempted to upgrade the receiver for a newer version of the Onkyo. I want "THX select +" and a front panel HDMI port and network connectivity. But I need better speakers first!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19611303
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now and just lately I've noticed a small circular spot towards the bottom right corner of the screen. I had hoped it was just dust on the lens so I gave that a good wiping but that didn't help at all. I can only see it on dark screens and would describe it as a light color circular spot. Based on my vague description does anyone have any idea what that could be and more importantly, how to get rid of it?
> 
> 
> If it helps at all, my pj is mounted about 12-13 feet away and I'm projecting onto a 92" white screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Do you see the same phenomenon in the upper left corner?


Where is the placement of the projector?

On shelf, ceiling mount, above screen , lower than screen, middle of screen...


Is there a slight red haze?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey guys i have a question for all those who have their projectors ceiling mounted. "What do you all do about turning the projector completely off"? My ceiling is 8ft from floor and my projector is ceiling mounted and hangs down about a foot or so and after i hit the power button on the remote both times and it turns off i always hit the main power button on the back but when i do it sometimes moves the projector then i have to redo the image. But the manual said your suppose to turn off the main switch. I dont have the best universal ceiling mount anyway so every little movement seems to move the image or lens.


----------



## Vracer111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19612498
> 
> 
> Hey guys i have a question for all those who have their projectors ceiling mounted. "What do you all do about turning the projector completely off"? My ceiling is 8ft from floor and my projector is ceiling mounted and hangs down about a foot or so and after i hit the power button on the remote both times and it turns off i always hit the main power button on the back but when i do it sometimes moves the projector then i have to redo the image. But the manual said your suppose to turn off the main switch. I dont have the best universal ceiling mount anyway so every little movement seems to move the image or lens.



You don't need to turn off the main power switch unless you will be cleaning the filter, messing with your connections, or changing out the bulb. Do you unplug your receiver from the power source every time you turn it off...


----------



## kbfern

That small circular spot is probably a dust blob,if you turn your focus ring fully one way or the other if it is dust the blob will disappear and you will see a tiny spec of dust.


This is a fairly common issue with LCD projectors as their light path is not sealed and dust gets inside between the optics and panel.Over time you may get a number of these dust blobs so you need to either send it back to the manufacturer for cleaning or find out how to do it yourself.


All pj's are different inside but you need to get a can of compressed air (cfc free) and spray carefully around inside which usually dislodges any dust particles and with trial and error you can usually get rid of them till the next one appears.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19612498
> 
> 
> Hey guys i have a question for all those who have their projectors ceiling mounted. "What do you all do about turning the projector completely off"? My ceiling is 8ft from floor and my projector is ceiling mounted and hangs down about a foot or so and after i hit the power button on the remote both times and it turns off i always hit the main power button on the back but when i do it sometimes moves the projector then i have to redo the image. But the manual said your suppose to turn off the main switch. I dont have the best universal ceiling mount anyway so every little movement seems to move the image or lens.



You could also get a power stripper/ surge protector with a switch. That's what I do. I have my projector, AV receiver and ps3 connected to the stripper and when Im not gonna use it, I just switch it off. No more stand by power consumption as well


----------



## cmacclel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gary Stevens* /forum/post/19610379
> 
> 
> I had what looks like the same problem when I got my 8350. Do the vertical lines go away if you slightly de-focus the image? If you take a piece of white paper and overlay that onto the screen, are the lines missing on the paper?
> 
> 
> I was using a DaLite 92" Video Spectra screen and it is an interference pattern between the 1080P LCD panel of the 8350 and the grain structure of the screen. The lines will go away or at least change spacing if you zoom in or out and re-focus the new image. The only solution is to change screen material.
> 
> 
> I did a search in the Screens forum here and the issue pops up about once a year, always (it seems) when someone gets a new 1080P projector (multiple makes) and very often with a 92" Video Spectra screen.
> 
> 
> -Gary




Yes they do go away if I slightly defocus the screen and I am using a Dalite pull down screen though I'm not sure of the screen material. The new projector is out for delivery. I'll try the white paper test.


Mac


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19611602
> 
> 
> Do you see the same phenomenon in the upper left corner?
> 
> 
> Where is the placement of the projector?
> 
> On shelf, ceiling mount, above screen , lower than screen, middle of screen...
> 
> 
> Is there a slight red haze?



Nope, just in the lower right corner.

It's shelf mounted, middle of screen (left to right) and just a bit below the top of the screen.

No I've never noticed any red hazing of any kind. (Thank goodness for that)


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kbfern* /forum/post/19612564
> 
> 
> That small circular spot is probably a dust blob,if you turn your focus ring fully one way or the other if it is dust the blob will disappear and you will see a tiny spec of dust.
> 
> 
> This is a fairly common issue with LCD projectors as their light path is not sealed and dust gets inside between the optics and panel.Over time you may get a number of these dust blobs so you need to either send it back to the manufacturer for cleaning or find out how to do it yourself.
> 
> 
> All pj's are different inside but you need to get a can of compressed air (cfc free) and spray carefully around inside which usually dislodges any dust particles and with trial and error you can usually get rid of them till the next one appears.



Oh, this doesn't sound like it's going to be fun to deal with at all.










But thanks for the information.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I for some reason thought that when the blue light is still on after its turned off by remote or standby mode is on just like the ps3 has that its not good for the projector or ps3 bcuz it does still consume power and not good for bulb. THANKS for the advice and help


----------



## scl23enn4m3

Anyone know what I'd be able to do with RS232 that I couldn't do with IR on this projector?


----------



## jays_on

A while ago I posted an issue, where about 25% of my viewing area was out of focus. If I focused that section everything else became blurry.


I had a 20ft throw (due to aesthetics) but thanks to ChiefJC's post on fl's I decided to try 13ft. I assumed it wouldn't make much of a difference considering the manual shows a throw over 41ft! I knew I'd want a before and after, and didn't feel like getting the rebel so I used my phone. It doesn't do justice.
Attachment 193521 

Attachment 193522 


Needless to say, it significantly improved every aspect of the image. Sharpness, contrast, color, everything. But best of all it cured my blurry section! I didn't know I could be happier than I already was. But I guess that's the problem with PJ's, there is no real stopping point! But that's half the fun!










For anyone using a long throw, do what you can to shorten it, you don't know what you're missing!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19583355
> 
> 
> 106" 1.2 gain screen, 13' throw = 23fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 13.5' throw = 21fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 16' throw = 17fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 17.5' throw = 14
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 21' throw = 12fl
> 
> 
> So you can see, the curve from ~16' and further is pretty sharp. In a review it was tested as decreasing over %40 from mid zoom to almost max. And the results they came up with were based on the "Dynamic" brightest mode again
> 
> 
> Zoom out: 1640
> 
> Mid-zoom: 1378
> 
> Zoom in: 987
> 
> 
> If you convert those numbers over to the cinema mode it gets real ugly fast.
> 
> 
> Zoom out 546
> 
> Mid-zoom 463
> 
> Zoom in: 330


----------



## newB24

Long time troller first time poster because I actually have something to post about!










Dumb luck has found me staring at an 8350 new in box, a recently drywalled basement and an offer for free professional painting (with sprayers and all) help!!!


Here are the specifics:


Room Size: 16' wide x 19' deep (open on one end) (minimal ambient light (no direct and none in the room, 4' egress window about 40' away from screen that could easily be blacked out))

8' ceilings

seating distance 13'

Projector lens to screen 15' (that is the furthest I can do)

Trying for 110" diagonal 16:9 screen

Ceiling mounted 8350

primary for watching prime time tv, sports on directv and bluray movies


I'm 99.9% sold on doing a paint on drywall screen (especially with the painter's help and tools).


Here is my issue: I was sold on the Silver Fire mix but my painter has told me he has access to free Goo Systems screen paint.


I did a search of the archives and any relevant Goo System searches all come up from many years ago and all related to the cost of the Goo System and its difficulty in applying (both of which I have solved or so I think).


Maybe Mississippi Man or another member can give me their 2 cents worth on Goo Systems VS Silver Fire in this circumstance?


As for my personal preference, I just want a nice bright popping image that will make people say WOW. I don't have a real good eye!


----------



## Coolme

I have an opportunity to get an Epson 1080UB for a little bit less than a new 8350. Can anyone tell me what are the differences between those two models and whether this is a good deal? Thanks.


----------



## MikeRich

Hello,


I had 2 quick questions for owners of the Epson:


1. Is anyone using a Stewart Firewhawk and can comment on brightness?


I have the older Firehawk (Not sure if it's G3, but it's grey) and I want to know if my screen is ok with this.


2. I see that people are using PS3 with this pj, can anyone post a game screen shot..COD or some other recent game would be great!


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## cmacclel

Replacement projector just arrived and the focus and zoom knob's are locked up solid!


Mac


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19614684
> 
> 
> A while ago I posted an issue, where about 25% of my viewing area was out of focus. If I focused that section everything else became blurry.
> 
> 
> I had a 20ft throw (due to aesthetics) but thanks to ChiefJC's post on fl's I decided to try 13ft. I assumed it wouldn't make much of a difference considering the manual shows a throw over 41ft! I knew I'd want a before and after, and didn't feel like getting the rebel so I used my phone. It doesn't do justice.
> Attachment 193521
> 
> Attachment 193522
> 
> 
> Needless to say, it significantly improved every aspect of the image. Sharpness, contrast, color, everything. But best of all it cured my blurry section! I didn't know I could be happier than I already was. But I guess that's the problem with PJ's, there is no real stopping point! But that's half the fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone using a long throw, do what you can to shorten it, you don't know what you're missing!



Glad I could help, Im an Iphone picture taker as well..lol. I can definitly see the difference in those pics, the change is very dramatic almost like 2 different PJ's.


----------



## cmacclel

Looks like Epsons packaging is really lacking. The lens comes in contact with their spring board packaging.




Good Projector (Notice gap in between focus and zoom ring)











Bad Projector











Replacement Packaging


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coolme* /forum/post/19615045
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to get an Epson 1080UB for a little bit less than a new 8350. Can anyone tell me what are the differences between those two models and whether this is a good deal? Thanks.



Is this the Home Cinema or Pro Cinema version?


If this is a new pro cinema 1080UB, with new bulb, IMO it is a slightly better pj than the 8350. (primarily becuase of blacks)


Pro's

blacker Blacks,(especially in the theater modes) reported as having slightly more lumens in all calibrated modes, color accuracy(needs alot of calibration in a couple modes) and sharpness are about the same as the 8350.

Anamorphic lens support(pro only)


Con's

170W bulb (8350 is 200w)

Less bulb life than the 8350.

Louder

8350 needs little(if any) calibration right out of the box for cineme mode, where as the 1080's need quit a bit.


If its a new Home Cinema version of the 1080UB its pretty much the same as above except take away the anamorphic lens support.


This is quoted from a simular discussions as well from saxman717


-"1080UB has better black levels, inorganic panel vs organic, and was THE premiere mid-range projector since 2008. It went for 3K then and still for about 1.8-2K (for a new one at closeout pricing) now for a reason.


The above + 2-year warrenty from Epson means I have to give the edge to the 1080UB.


If you need a new unit, though, without the Epson warrenty, and want to pony up 400+ more (at least the price of 1 bulb replacement), then the 8350 is also a great projector with a newer LCD chip design. Choice is yours --- but read reviews on each to see how you feel. There are only a few that compare the 8350 and 1080UB explicitly --- I've found 2 that side w/ th e 1080UB and 1 that sides w/ the 8350."


IMO If your not getting it brand new, I would get the 8350. If it is new, thats a tough one. I would read the reviews, and compare screens from the 8350.


Good luck.


----------



## Coolme

Thanks for your answer. I don't really know which model it is as I'm looking at the european version, the TW2000. I read a few reviews and understand it has better blacks (very important). For that reason alone I think I will go for the used TW2000 with 200 hours on the bulb.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19615380
> 
> 
> Glad I could help, Im an Iphone picture taker as well..lol. I can definitly see the difference in those pics, the change is very dramatic almost like 2 different PJ's.



How in the world did you know I used an iphone!!?? lol


----------



## hanly2

I have a dumb question should I mount the pj centered with the screen or the lens centered with the screen?


----------



## DGF

Ideally, centering on the actual lens is always preferrable.... but the hor/vert adjustments allow you to compensate for being off center anyway.


----------



## Haloplaya

I'm hoping to have an 8350 around Christmas (Amazon says it won't be shipped for 2 months??) and pair it with my 80" Sony Chromavue HCS-W80 screen. Has anyone tried this combo?


If not, I may have to just sell the screen and try for a different one?


Thanks!


----------



## Mupi

Is it possible to turn the Auto iris off? Anybody?


----------



## auburn2

Well I bought an Epson 8350 from HHGREG 3 weeks ago. Here is my personal review (like you all care







). In general I would consider myself a DLP fan. Four weeks ago I was shopping exclusively for DLPs to replace my 5 year old broken DWIN unit. So buying an LCD was a step out for me to begin with but it presented value that as too good to pass up and overall I am happy with my purchase, but not overwhelmed. After 3 weeks I would give the projector an 8 out of 10.


My setup is a cieling mount with a 92 inch white electric drop down screen. My uses are 1. sports (dish network HD), 2. video games, 3. movies, in that order.


Goods (in rough order):


1. Brightness/modes: Wow this projector is bright when you want/need it to be. I also dig the available modes, something not on my old PJ. I don't use Dynamic, that is just too much. But I use Living room for daytime sports, natural for nightime sports and cinema with high speed auto iris for movies. I have yet to figure out what xvColor is good for.


2. Set up convenience: With lens shift and a large zoom range setup is a breeze. I already had a theater built and a different PJ would have meant moving my cieling PJ hangar (and it is a vaulted ceiling). This was a major factor on my decision.


3. Noise: This is the quietest PJ I have ever heard. I can't hear the fan from 3 feet away even if the room is quiet.


4. Warranty: 2 year warranty better than most PJs in this price range


5. Price/value: $1039 for 1080p is a good value.


Others:


1. 1080i scaler: This replaced a 720p PJ, and I figured I would change the resolution on my DISH to 1080i to more closely match the PJ native resolution. The picture looked horrible on 1080i. I ended up putting the dish back to 720p. This essentially means for most of what I do the extra 360 lines of resolution is getting me nothing. 1080p with the PS3 is nice but not what I primarily bought the PJ for.


2. Contrast/dynamic range: Ok I know this PJ has some great numbers on paper but to my eyes it is noticably inferior to the DWIN it replaced in terms of contrast on the screen.


3. Size/appearance/lens shift controls: The PJ is physically big and looks kind of "cheap". While the lens shift makes setup easy the dials for moving the lens have a lot of play in them and it is kind of jerky. Doesn't feel all that polished.


Anyway those are my thoughts.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it possible to turn the Auto iris off? Anybody?



Yea, there's 3 settings including off, normal, and fast I believe. Not sure what sub-menu it's under, but it's there.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *auburn2* /forum/post/19617478
> 
> 
> 
> 1. 1080i scaler: This replaced a 720p PJ, and I figured I would change the resolution on my DISH to 1080i to more closely match the PJ native resolution. The picture looked horrible on 1080i. I ended up putting the dish back to 720p. This essentially means for most of what I do the extra 360 lines of resolution is getting me nothing. 1080p with the PS3 is nice but not what I primarily bought the PJ for.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway those are my thoughts.



anytime you try and upscale anything its like making something from nothing. you are spreading out the original image and filling in the blanks with a guess by the hardware of what will look good. I have never been impressed by 1080i on either TV's I had, I always set the PS3 to 720P (now I have a TV and Projector that support native 1080P and the difference is so obvious...


----------



## andrios

Does anyone use xv color mode? All components are hdmi through denon 2311. I think it looks good, not much feedback from other users though...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ix* /forum/post/19577745
> 
> *A projector losing power and shutting down hard won't hurt your bulb.* Turning it back on again right away, or even within a few minutes, is what will kill it. We had one here in the office do that - the bulb actually exploded inside the case. There was a brief power outage during a presentation, power came back on in something like 30 seconds, sales guy turned the PJ right back on - boom.
> 
> 
> However if he had just left it off and let it cool for 10-20 minutes it would have been fine. I think most new PJ's these days have overheat sensor that won't let you turn them back on anyway.


*

That's mostly a "FAIL" answer*







Sorry.


The reason why Bulbs explode is because when they PJ loses Power and the Bulb's casing cannot cool quickly enough, it becomes weakened severely by the increasing temperature. And the temp WILL increase immediately after such an event.....considerably so. Just like a Radiator Hose will split if the Fan on the Radiator doesn't keep running for a bit. A new Hose will last a while, but it will also fail sooner if mistreated. A PJ Bulb can reach 1200 degrees in operation.....without a fan-cooled cycle, it can soar almost to the melting point of the Glass.


If that happens once or twice...and the power stays down until the lamp is cool, it most likely will not Pop, but the high temps have already weakened the skin of the Bulb, making any future failure more likely.


----------



## newB24

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newB24* 
Long time troller first time poster because I actually have something to post about!










Dumb luck has found me staring at an 8350 new in box, a recently drywalled basement and an offer for free professional painting (with sprayers and all) help!!!


Here are the specifics:


Room Size: 16' wide x 19' deep (open on one end) (minimal ambient light (no direct and none in the room, 4' egress window about 40' away from screen that could easily be blacked out))

8' ceilings

seating distance 13'

Projector lens to screen 15' (that is the furthest I can do)

Trying for 110" diagonal 16:9 screen

Ceiling mounted 8350

primary for watching prime time tv, sports on directv and bluray movies


I'm 99.9% sold on doing a paint on drywall screen (especially with the painter's help and tools).


Here is my issue: I was sold on the Silver Fire mix but my painter has told me he has access to free Goo Systems screen paint.


I did a search of the archives and any relevant Goo System searches all come up from many years ago and all related to the cost of the Goo System and its difficulty in applying (both of which I have solved or so I think).


Maybe Mississippi Man or another member can give me their 2 cents worth on Goo Systems VS Silver Fire in this circumstance?


As for my personal preference, I just want a nice bright popping image that will make people say WOW. I don't have a real good eye!
After reading this again, maybe I posted in the wrong section? should i re-post in the screen section?


----------



## azereus

Quote:

Originally Posted by *auburn2* 
3. Size/appearance/lens shift controls: The PJ is physically big and looks kind of "cheap". While the lens shift makes setup easy *the dials for moving the lens have a lot of play in them and it is kind of jerky*. Doesn't feel all that polished.


Anyway those are my thoughts.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this. This is my first projector and I wasn't sure what to expect but that's one thing that definitely disappointed me. I find moving it up/down sometimes sends it off to the left or right a little bit and vice versa. They should have done better here IMO.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19618635
> 
> *
> 
> That's mostly a "FAIL" answer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> The reason why Bulbs explode is because when they PJ loses Power and the Bulb's casing cannot cool quickly enough, it becomes weakened severely by the increasing temperature. And the temp WILL increase immediately after such an event.....considerably so. Just like a Radiator Hose will split if the Fan on the Radiator doesn't keep running for a bit. A new Hose will last a while, but it will also fail sooner if mistreated. A PJ Bulb can reach 1200 degrees in operation.....without a fan-cooled cycle, it can soar almost to the melting point of the Glass.
> 
> 
> If that happens once or twice...and the power stays down until the lamp is cool, it most likely will not Pop, but the high temps have already weakened the skin of the Bulb, making any future failure more likely.




So if your using any projector, and experience any type of power failure for any reason, your best bet is to disconnect it from any power source until it cools if there is no other option?


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *auburn2* 
3. Size/appearance/lens shift controls: The PJ is physically big and looks kind of "cheap". While the lens shift makes setup easy the dials for moving the lens have a lot of play in them and it is kind of jerky. Doesn't feel all that polished.
 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mupi* 
Is it possible to turn the Auto iris off? Anybody?
IIRC, this is off by default. Unless you turned it on (Fast or Normal), it should be off.

The setting is located under the picture adjustment menu near the bottom.


----------



## cmacclel

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
*

That's mostly a "FAIL" answer*







Sorry.


The reason why Bulbs explode is because when they PJ loses Power and the Bulb's casing cannot cool quickly enough, it becomes weakened severely by the increasing temperature. And the temp WILL increase immediately after such an event.....considerably so. Just like a Radiator Hose will split if the Fan on the Radiator doesn't keep running for a bit. A new Hose will last a while, but it will also fail sooner if mistreated. A PJ Bulb can reach 1200 degrees in operation.....without a fan-cooled cycle, it can soar almost to the melting point of the Glass.


If that happens once or twice...and the power stays down until the lamp is cool, it most likely will not Pop, but the high temps have already weakened the skin of the Bulb, making any future failure more likely.


So your saying if a projecter looses power while on the bulb temperature will rise? I would think that once the power was cut the only direction the lamp temperature would go would be down, there is no way the low volume fan can keep the lamp temperature lower while on, than no fan while off in my opinion.


Mac


----------



## ChiefJC

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng*
So if your using any projector, and experience any type of power failure for any reason, your best bet is to disconnect it from any power source until it cools if there is no other option?
Your best bet is to have your PJ on an UPS, so you'll have time to turn it off correctly. That way the fan can cool the bulb.


----------



## jtheman

hi guys,I've bought this great pj for my father in law for its sports bar,he will not use it always just for specil presentation,what is the maximum running time before I need to shut if off and for how long sould it be off before going back on


thnaks


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19619400
> 
> 
> So your saying if a projecter looses power while on the bulb temperature will rise? I would think that once the power was cut the only direction the lamp temperature would go would be down, there is no way the low volume fan can keep the lamp temperature lower while on, than no fan while off in my opinion.
> 
> 
> Mac



I think we are getting some old wives tales here. Maybe someone needs to call epson and clarify. Once off it will not generate more heat. you cannot compare it to a engine and radiator as engine coolant temps do rise after shutting the engine off because the coolant stops circulating and absorbs the heat from the engine block and other metal parts until the metal is the same temp as the coolant then both will cool down from that point on.... in a projector you dont have a ton of surface area where the projector can absorb residual heat... you will probably have a small temp rise over the firstifew minutes but then it will cool so i think leaving it for 20 mins will be sufficient


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19615268
> 
> 
> Replacement projector just arrived and the focus and zoom knob's are locked up solid!
> 
> 
> Mac



Mac,

I think I see the yellow foam packing ring in your second picture. I'm not sure if you realize you need to remove that. There should have been a sticker on the projector saying to remove it. That's there to protect the assembly from moving during shipping. I'm not sure if you saw that but just in case you didn't, thats why the rings don't move.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *auburn2* /forum/post/19617478
> 
> 
> Others:
> 
> 
> 1. 1080i scaler: This replaced a 720p PJ, and I figured I would change the resolution on my DISH to 1080i to more closely match the PJ native resolution. The picture looked horrible on 1080i. I ended up putting the dish back to 720p. This essentially means for most of what I do the extra 360 lines of resolution is getting me nothing. 1080p with the PS3 is nice but not what I primarily bought the PJ for.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this:

If the native resolution of the 8350 is 1080p and you're feeding it a 720p signal to make it look good, that means that the _scaler_ is actually a good one; it's scaling a 720p signal to a 1080p output.

If you feed it a 1080i signal and it looks bad it means that either the deinterlacer isn't a good one, or the component generating the 1080i is poor. I'm not sure whether the signal is broadcast as 720p or 1080i in the first place?

In any case, your experience doesn't suggest that there's a problem with scaling in the 8350, at elast not from 720p to 1080p.


----------



## NikkiPink

Has anyone here had a problem with fan noise?


I'm noticing that the fan is louder right now than it has ever been. The projector has been on for about 4 hours or so, could the noise just be from the length of time being on? I'm concerned. I'm going to turn it off for a few hours and check it again.


----------



## 3Aims




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19620452
> 
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this:
> 
> If the native resolution of the 8350 is 1080p and you're feeding it a 720p signal to make it look good, that means that the _scaler_ is actually a good one; it's scaling a 720p signal to a 1080p output.
> 
> If you feed it a 1080i signal and it looks bad it means that either the deinterlacer isn't a good one, or the component generating the 1080i is poor. I'm not sure whether the signal is broadcast as 720p or 1080i in the first place?
> 
> In any case, your experience doesn't suggest that there's a problem with scaling in the 8350, at elast not from 720p to 1080p.



I've been wondering what to do with my FIOS box.


Most of the HD stuff is broadcast in 720p. So, if I set the FIOS box to 1080i, then the box is turning the native 720p material into 1080i, which then goes to the projector that turns the signal into 1080p. Right?


If I choose 720p on the FIOS box, then the native 720p material goes to the projector as 720p and the projector turns it into 1080p.


Which one is better?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* /forum/post/19622851
> 
> 
> Has anyone here had a problem with fan noise?
> 
> 
> I'm noticing that the fan is louder right now than it has ever been. The projector has been on for about 4 hours or so, could the noise just be from the length of time being on? I'm concerned. I'm going to turn it off for a few hours and check it again.



Where is the projector mounted?


How much room is on the rear to allow free flowing air?


Are any heat ducts/vents directing hot air toward the projector?



*I run my projector around 3 hours most days and the fan hum is constant with no fluctuations.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19618607
> 
> 
> Does anyone use xv color mode? All components are hdmi through denon 2311. I think it looks good, not much feedback from other users though...



I've got 3 output devices being switched to the PJ, HDMI.


1) The Apple TV streaming from Netflix loves the xv color mode. I think it is the most natural looking of all color modes by far.

2) The Oppo 83SE Blu-ray player, for most discs, seems too look best using Cinema color mode.

3) My LG tuner for HD OTA has always looked dark, and the Living Room setting works best for most programs.


John F


----------



## NikkiPink

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
Where is the projector mounted?


How much room is on the rear to allow free flowing air?


Are any heat ducts/vents directing hot air toward the projector?



*I run my projector around 3 hours most days and the fan hum is constant with no fluctuations.
We have it on a shelf against the back wall. There are no heat vents near it. But there is little space behind it to the wall, just enough for the HDMI and power cord to come out the back. Is that a no no? Should we have more air flow back there? Maybe move it out some?


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* 
Has anyone here had a problem with fan noise?


I'm noticing that the fan is louder right now than it has ever been. The projector has been on for about 4 hours or so, could the noise just be from the length of time being on? I'm concerned. I'm going to turn it off for a few hours and check it again.
Here is a suggestion, if you read the specs http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120 the fan is supposed to be 22db. so get a sound level meter and see what the reading is. if it is higher then you should contact epson for warranty repair/replace... Radio shack sells them and harbor freight also has a 5 in 1 multi meter that does sound and lumen measurements...


----------



## Randy Mathis

Quote:

Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* 
We have it on a shelf against the back wall. There are no heat vents near it. But there is little space behind it to the wall, just enough for the HDMI and power cord to come out the back. Is that a no no? Should we have more air flow back there? Maybe move it out some?
The rear of the projector is where the cool air enters the machine. If you don't give the pj enough fresh air the fan speed will increase in order to get the air that the machine needs.


If you can do it you should try to give it some more air.


----------



## audioadrenaline

This is a good suggestion for starters, but you'd have to prove that the volume level is clearly beyond 22 dB. The RadioShack meter could work, but it isn't calibrated to ISO standards. Plus, Epson isn't specific enough on their 22dB claim... What's the test distance? What's the weighting? I suppose at the end of the day, Epson might honor a warranty for the sake of customer satisfaction.


I was lucky enough to buy a still calibrated, ISO spec SPL meter from a Northrop Grumman auction a few months ago, so I'll do some testing when I get my hands on the 8350.


----------



## eliwankenobi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* 
We have it on a shelf against the back wall. There are no heat vents near it. But there is little space behind it to the wall, just enough for the HDMI and power cord to come out the back. Is that a no no? Should we have more air flow back there? Maybe move it out some?
Yes, if possible give it at least 6 inches of space so the fan can suck in enough cool air. Other things to check...


Is it very dusty on the outside? If there is a lot of dust around, maybe the filter needs to be cleaned. I think its recommended to be done every 100 hrs or so.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19614684
> 
> 
> A while ago I posted an issue, where about 25% of my viewing area was out of focus. If I focused that section everything else became blurry.
> 
> 
> I had a 20ft throw (due to aesthetics) but thanks to ChiefJC's post on fl's I decided to try 13ft. I assumed it wouldn't make much of a difference considering the manual shows a throw over 41ft! I knew I'd want a before and after, and didn't feel like getting the rebel so I used my phone. It doesn't do justice.
> Attachment 193521
> 
> Attachment 193522
> 
> 
> Needless to say, it significantly improved every aspect of the image. Sharpness, contrast, color, everything. But best of all it cured my blurry section! I didn't know I could be happier than I already was. But I guess that's the problem with PJ's, there is no real stopping point! But that's half the fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone using a long throw, do what you can to shorten it, you don't know what you're missing!



Congratulations on your cured problem!!


I've read somewhere around here that the Epson lenses are sharper at max zoom/wide angle with a shorter throw.....also brigher and the closer the better.


Mine has a very short throw, like 8ft and I use max zoom and its very sharp all around!


----------



## Robbo1

I was wondering what people are using as a scaler to upscale signals to

1080p?


More specifically, what would do a better job, a midrange receiver like the Denon 791 or the Epson 8350 itself?


----------



## greg631

Hi -


I've read through all the posts, and have gathered a significant amount of info. So much info, that I am now worried I am not going to be able to use the 8350 in my situation, or if I do the pic will be too small.










I'm looking to replace my LED TV with the 8350 in the Living Room. Based on what I've read here, it is probably a VERY POOR choice of room. I have some control over the lighting, but no blackout shades. That is why I started looking at the 8350....I hear it's 'bright'.


Some of the photos others have posted, have given me hope.










So, here goes....


Absolute max throw - 11' 4" (wall to wall)

(but I need to take pj width, vent/cable space behind and screen hang [for mounting to the wall])

So, I'm guessing it goes down to about 9' 4" to 10'.


Seating is 9'4" from the proposed wall for the screen.


This is the best room I have for the pj.


Here are the q's ...


1. What can I expect in terms of screen size


2. Do I go with a gray screen, as MM has suggested to others to help compensate for the light in the room? With the windows in line with the pj, I'm not sure. Will be used mostly for day and night TV/movie.


3. Based on the wall, I'm looking at a motorized tab tensioned screen. I'd like to be able to 'hide' the screen with some pics etc.. on the same wall, and then have the screen drop over the pics for movie time.

Any suggestions?


I've included some photos below to help show the room.

PJ would be mounded on the wall above the bay window, behind the couch.

screen would be on the wall where the current TV is.


No other walls seem to work based on the room design.


THANKS for any/all help !!!












Greg


----------



## jays_on

The manual is showing an image size of 120in. at 11.8 ft.


----------



## tbshooter

1. Probably around 92" with the projector depth taking into account. Hanging it inside the bay window might give you little more.

Maybe get the projector first and play around with it before getting screen.


2. I am using 110" stewart grayhawk and it seem too dim for me. But it could be my throw distance.


Maybe wall mount the LED for daytime/TV viewing if you are getting motorize screen.


----------



## soutthpaw

you can download a throw distance calculator for 8350 directly from epson website http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/s...egory=Products 


I would get a screen with a high gain for sure


----------



## jpbledsoe

I recently installed an 8350 in our church. The throw is about 15 ft. and it's ceiling-mounted. The keystone was slightly off and we couldn't find anything about it in the manual.


I searched the web and landed on avsforum, where I learned that you have to level the projector and then use the up/down lens shift wheel to position the image on the screen and eliminate keystoning.


After reading your post, I wonder if it's best to point the projector so it's lined up "normal" to the plane of the screen and then use the left/right shift wheel to position it on the screen. My theory is that this method results in the most uniform focus (versus keystone correction in the up/down case)


Why the effect would be exacerbated at longer throws....that I don't know.


Anybody else like to enlighten a new 8350 user in this area?


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## nobuyersremorse

Greg, I have been in a similar situtation as you for a while now... I am replacing my plasma with a pj in a living room with windows that do not have blackout shades. After my reasearch I have decided for my situtation a Da Lite High Power screen will work best. It helps reject ambient light from the sides and dramatically increases the brightness. However, the pj will need to be mounted as close to eye level as possible and a window directly facing the screen will be its worst enemy. You will get the advice to buy a black diamond screen as well. Although this is a great screen, they are very pricy (3k+). As for the screen size, the last poster has it right. I want to know what size to buy now but after getting the same advice over and over, I will be purchasing the pj and seeing what size I can get out of it at the throw I have, also what size looks right at my seating distance. You can contact da lite and get a sample of their High Power material so you can see what it looks like before you buy. Best of luck!


----------



## jpbledsoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/19603488
> 
> 
> Thanks for asking.
> 
> 
> It's an auditorium; the av booth is 40-50 feet behind the projector. The cable run through the ceiling could be up to 90'. We'd control the serial interface from a PC.
> 
> 
> We're on s-video (horrible source I know!) now but will be upgrading in the next week or so to HDMI from the PC's DVI output, via the Kramer 640T/R coax extenders (supplier was late providing the extenders). Using the IR extension function (for this application) in the 640T/R is another method I need to ask Kramer about.
> 
> 
> Funny how the prior Epson projector's remote worked from the sound booth (we tried an EX-31 and took it back for a refund). I need to "level" the 8350 to adjust position and fix keystoning. That "might" solve the remote range problem by allowing better line-of-sight access to the 8350's IR sensor.
> 
> 
> Jeff



Update on the remote extension:


I've decided to use the 5th coax on the Kramer 640T/R devices to send the IR signal to the projector. The Kramer IR receiver (in the soundbooth) and IR transmitter (near the projector) will cost a total of ~ $60.


Jeff


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a good suggestion for starters, but you'd have to prove that the volume level is clearly beyond 22 dB. The RadioShack meter could work, but it isn't calibrated to ISO standards. Plus, Epson isn't specific enough on their 22dB claim... What's the test distance? What's the weighting? I suppose at the end of the day, Epson might honor a warranty for the sake of customer satisfaction.
> 
> 
> I was lucky enough to buy a still calibrated, ISO spec SPL meter from a Northrop Grumman auction a few months ago, so I'll do some testing when I get my hands on the 8350.



We tested it as soon as it arrived. From 24" I got the 21/22 db reading in Eco mode. From 4ft it's was 16/17db.


Equipment used wasn't highend though, just an audussy mic, connected to my computer running an audio calibration software.


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbshooter* /forum/post/19625544
> 
> 
> 1. Probably around 92" with the projector depth taking into account. Hanging it inside the bay window might give you little more.
> 
> Maybe get the projector first and play around with it before getting screen.
> 
> 
> 2. I am using 110" stewart grayhawk and it seem too dim for me. But it could be my throw distance.
> 
> 
> Maybe wall mount the LED for daytime/TV viewing if you are getting motorize screen.



Once I heard back that it is not impossible, I was going to get the projector and then play around with screen size, but I wanted to be sure I set my expectations correctly as far as screen size, before ordering.


In the bay window.... interesting idea.










This all started because, as you can tell from the boxes in the dining room, I recently moved. I was looking for a tv for the bedroom, and then came up with the projector in the LR, move existing tv to bedroom.










THANKS!


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19625603
> 
> 
> you can download a throw distance calculator for 8350 directly from epson website http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/s...egory=Products
> 
> 
> I would get a screen with a high gain for sure



I've used them, and they seem to offer hope, but I wanted some confirmation from 'real people'.










how 'high gain' ... ?


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/19627014
> 
> 
> I've used them, and they seem to offer hope, but I wanted some confirmation from 'real people'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how 'high gain' ... ?




I'm a real person, and use a 7 year old Da-Lite High Power model B pull down. Of course, it is the original 2.8 gain HP material, not the new 2.4 material.


My 8350 is mounted 16' from the 92" wide screen, mounted on a shelf 5' above eye level. So, it is certainly not optimally mounted as far as being close to eye level. It looks great, maybe the fact that it is mounted well above eye level keeps the screen from being TOO bright.


I think the new HP material should be as good or better for the 8350.


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19627427
> 
> 
> I'm a real person, and use a 7 year old Da-Lite High Power model B pull down. Of course, it is the original 2.8 gain HP material, not the new 2.4 material.
> 
> 
> My 8350 is mounted 16' from the 92" wide screen, mounted on a shelf 5' above eye level. So, it is certainly not optimally mounted as far as being close to eye level. It looks great, maybe the fact that it is mounted well above eye level keeps the screen from being TOO bright.
> 
> 
> I think the new HP material should be as good or better for the 8350.



Thanks.


Do you happen to have windows on the same wall as the projector?

In just about all the pics I looked at in this thread, I didn't see anyone else trying this.

I must be crazy, or naive lol


----------



## tbshooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/19626199
> 
> 
> Once I heard back that it is not impossible, I was going to get the projector and then play around with screen size, but I wanted to be sure I set my expectations correctly as far as screen size, before ordering.
> 
> 
> In the bay window.... interesting idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This all started because, as you can tell from the boxes in the dining room, I recently moved. I was looking for a tv for the bedroom, and then came up with the projector in the LR, move existing tv to bedroom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THANKS!



Have you consider projecting to the other wall with the small window?


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/19627590
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Do you happen to have windows on the same wall as the projector?
> 
> In just about all the pics I looked at in this thread, I didn't see anyone else trying this.
> 
> I must be crazy, or naive lol



Pics of windows behind PJ, and then the screen down and up. Sorry about the horrible white balance.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/19625094
> 
> 
> Hi -
> 
> 
> I've read through all the posts, and have gathered a significant amount of info. So much info, that I am now worried I am not going to be able to use the 8350 in my situation, or if I do the pic will be too small.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to replace my LED TV with the 8350 in the Living Room. Based on what I've read here, it is probably a VERY POOR choice of room. I have some control over the lighting, but no blackout shades. That is why I started looking at the 8350....I hear it's 'bright'.
> 
> 
> Some of the photos others have posted, have given me hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here goes....
> 
> 
> Absolute max throw - 11' 4" (wall to wall)
> 
> (but I need to take pj width, vent/cable space behind and screen hang [for mounting to the wall])
> 
> So, I'm guessing it goes down to about 9' 4" to 10'.
> 
> 
> Seating is 9'4" from the proposed wall for the screen.
> 
> 
> This is the best room I have for the pj.
> 
> 
> Here are the q's ...
> 
> 
> 1. What can I expect in terms of screen size



What kind of size where you hoping for?


My throw is like 8.5 ft and the projector is over my seating position on a shelf. Using max zoom I get about 82 inches diag. And its plenty big from my seating position. So with your throw, if you can position your pj over the seating area with a mount, you should have no problem getting over 100 inch.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greg631* /forum/post/19625094
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Do I go with a gray screen, as MM has suggested to others to help compensate for the light in the room? With the windows in line with the pj, I'm not sure. Will be used mostly for day and night TV/movie.



With the blinds closed and a high gain screen, I don't think you will have any problem using this pj with some ambient light. If you get a high contrast WITH gain, even better in your situation.


----------



## Vao

look at the demos between 8350 and 8700! I don't believe it!

http://www.hometheaterpeople.com/pro...ideo-demos.asp


----------



## Chad T

^Looks to me like there are some calibration issues that would make that comparison not worth a whole lot. Is there a technical explanation of the process they go through in creating those "demos"?


----------



## mekkerl

I've finally decided on the 8350...but have a question on mounting.


Unfortunately, the largest screen i can do is a 92" Focupix Flexio.


Questions in where to mount the projector. I can ceiling mount it about 10' from the screen, just above the sitting area (so we would be sitting directly under the projector). Or, I can ceiling mount it about 14' from the screen...and have the project behind us.


Can this projector handle either location (PQ)?


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad T* /forum/post/19628523
> 
> 
> ^Looks to me like there are some calibration issues that would make that comparison not worth a whole lot. Is there a technical explanation of the process they go through in creating those "demos"?



Yeah there is a explanation.


http://www.hometheaterpeople.com/pro...ault.asp#about


----------



## prggr

Yay, got my projector swapped out. Much better. Now at most have a 1 pixel red shift at an extreme corner, but not noticeable at all. Now on to the next project.. building a screen..


----------



## TallguyNB

Hey Guys, first time projector buyer here. We are interested in the 8350, but know nothing about the 'throw distance' and such. The wall we want to project on is 12.2 feet in width 8 feet high, in our basement (can be made dark easily) And the projector can be mounted in the ceiling about 13.5 feet back, (to give airflow) the room is 15 feet deep. So just a few general noob questions because i dont understand the throw distance calculator thing. One, is this projector going to be ok in a room this size? Two the wall is currently a yellow called 'lemon ice' so we know we'll have to paint it, what brand, and color should we paint it to? Thank you so much and happy holidays!


TallguyNB


----------



## cmacclel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bonjovi* /forum/post/19620140
> 
> 
> Mac,
> 
> I think I see the yellow foam packing ring in your second picture. I'm not sure if you realize you need to remove that. There should have been a sticker on the projector saying to remove it. That's there to protect the assembly from moving during shipping. I'm not sure if you saw that but just in case you didn't, thats why the rings don't move.




The foam ring is only to protect the lens shift feature in shipping. The vertical banding was from the **Dalite Video Spectra Screen**



I cannot explain this. I have 2 other projectors that look perfectly fine on the same screen.



Mac


----------



## Browninggold




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TallguyNB* /forum/post/19630207
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, first time projector buyer here. We are interested in the 8350, but know nothing about the 'throw distance' and such. The wall we want to project on is 12.2 feet in width 8 feet high, in our basement (can be made dark easily) And the projector can be mounted in the ceiling about 13.5 feet back, (to give airflow) the room is 15 feet deep. So just a few general noob questions because i dont understand the throw distance calculator thing. One, is this projector going to be ok in a room this size? Two the wall is currently a yellow called 'lemon ice' so we know we'll have to paint it, what brand, and color should we paint it to? Thank you so much and happy holidays!
> 
> 
> TallguyNB



I belive this is what you want http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ulator-pro.cfm


----------



## dvrmstrng

My 8350 came yesterday. I was just about on my way to Connecticut to visit my girlfriend so I showed some self control and put it downstairs, sealed, in the box until Sunday/Monday.


----------



## NikkiPink

Why can't I change the Aspect Ratio? I have The Santa Claus DVD playing right now and it's a square box in the middle of the screen. I click Aspect and it's on locked on Normal, I can't click the others. Is there a way to change it?


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* /forum/post/19630544
> 
> 
> Why can't I change the Aspect Ratio? I have The Santa Claus DVD playing right now and it's a square box in the middle of the screen. I click Aspect and it's on locked on Normal, I can't click the others. Is there a way to change it?



What type of DVD player and what type of connection?


----------



## NikkiPink




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19630600
> 
> 
> What type of DVD player and what type of connection?



The DVD is playing in a Playstation 3. HDMI cable from that into the receiver and HDMI from the receiver to the Epson.


----------



## TallguyNB

Thanks Browninggold, now i'm even more confused LOL

But i'm learning as I go, thanks again, it helped a little


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* /forum/post/19630544
> 
> 
> Why can't I change the Aspect Ratio? I have The Santa Claus DVD playing right now and it's a square box in the middle of the screen. I click Aspect and it's on locked on Normal, I can't click the others. Is there a way to change it?



If you are using the hdmi input on the projector, you can not adjust the aspect ratio.

This is mentioned in the manual.


*I assume the DVD is a full screen version.


----------



## dswdallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TallguyNB* /forum/post/19630207
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, first time projector buyer here. We are interested in the 8350, but know nothing about the 'throw distance' and such. The wall we want to project on is 12.2 feet in width 8 feet high, in our basement (can be made dark easily) And the projector can be mounted in the ceiling about 13.5 feet back, (to give airflow) the room is 15 feet deep. So just a few general noob questions because i dont understand the throw distance calculator thing. One, is this projector going to be ok in a room this size? Two the wall is currently a yellow called 'lemon ice' so we know we'll have to paint it, what brand, and color should we paint it to? Thank you so much and happy holidays!
> 
> 
> TallguyNB



Tall guy At around 13', projecting on a 1.0 gain 106" diagonal screen you are going to get a nice bright picture (at around 19 lumens). No issues for a ceiling mount that I can see. Good luck.

Don


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* /forum/post/19630627
> 
> 
> The DVD is playing in a Playstation 3. HDMI cable from that into the receiver and HDMI from the receiver to the Epson.



you should be able to adjust it on the PS3 under video settings for DVD and Bluray Playback


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you should be able to adjust it on the PS3 under video settings for DVD and Bluray Playback



Yeah if using hdmi connection the pj aspect can't be changed, that would have to be changed at the source. If available.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TallguyNB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, first time projector buyer here. We are interested in the 8350, but know nothing about the 'throw distance' and such. The wall we want to project on is 12.2 feet in width 8 feet high, in our basement (can be made dark easily) And the projector can be mounted in the ceiling about 13.5 feet back, (to give airflow) the room is 15 feet deep. So just a few general noob questions because i dont understand the throw distance calculator thing. One, is this projector going to be ok in a room this size? Two the wall is currently a yellow called 'lemon ice' so we know we'll have to paint it, what brand, and color should we paint it to? Thank you so much and happy holidays!
> 
> 
> TallguyNB



That throw is fine, the real question is what size screen do you want?


Use that pj calculator to see what screen size at 13.5 throw would put you in the middle of the zoom, or even a little toward the front zoom to pump up the brightness a tad.


Screen paint would be a good question in the DIY screen forum. But MM might chime in to help you out. Either way you need either paint it, or get screen material to maximize your experience.


----------



## TallguyNB

Thank you both so much, we're going to order the projector today and go paint shopping tonight, love the DIY section it gave me all the info I needed.


TG


----------



## below90hz

*Would anyone be interested in a video on "how-to" mod the $12.48 Monoprice ceiling bracket (max 44lb) to fit our 8350's*? There's no cutting, drilling or anything more involved than using a screwdriver and ratchet. Materials are cheap, small and easy to find parts at Home Depot.


If so, I'll post one.


-Ethan


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NikkiPink* /forum/post/19630544
> 
> 
> Why can't I change the Aspect Ratio? I have The Santa Claus DVD playing right now and it's a square box in the middle of the screen. I click Aspect and it's on locked on Normal, I can't click the others. Is there a way to change it?



If it's the original DVD version I think it may be non-anamorphic. So it's widescreen aspect ratio but displays as 4:3, meaning you get black bars on all four sides unless you zoom it equally in both directions. Not sure if the PS3 has the right zoom settings. If it's the widescreen special edition it should be anamorphic and display properly. Non-anamorphic DVDs usually look pretty bad when zoomed to a large size with a front projector.


----------



## Tolkien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *below90hz* /forum/post/19631732
> 
> *Would anyone be interested in a video on "how-to" mod the $12.48 Monoprice ceiling bracket (max 44lb) to fit our 8350's*? There's no cutting, drilling or anything more involved than using a screwdriver and ratchet. Materials are cheap, small and easy to find parts at Home Depot.
> 
> 
> If so, I'll post one.
> 
> 
> -Ethan



Please do. I bought the mount and don't know how to set it up!


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Please do. I bought the mount and don't know how to set it up!



If you look back a month or so, you'll see my mod which works great.


----------



## below90hz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19632483
> 
> 
> Please do. I bought the mount and don't know how to set it up!



Okey doke.


For the following ceiling mount (max 44lb limit):

Product ID 3010 
Product ID 5466 


If you bought or want to buy the Monoprice projector ceiling mount linked above (max 44lb weight limit) for your Epson 8350 or 8700UB, here's a video "how-To" to mod the connection. It is totally STEALTH. No one will know its even there.


Tools needed:

Phillips screwdriver

Ratchet and sockets (metric)


Materials (from Home Depot):

2" Everbilt 4-piece mending plate

3" Everbilt 2-piece galvanized steel mending plate with screws (screws not needed tho)

#10-32 x 3/8" 8-piece Crown Bolt Machine Screws and Nuts combo

#10 Crown Bolt Flat Washers


Total cost for ceiling mount ($12.48), shipping ($7.70) and materials ($10ish): $30

Total time for the mod: 10-15 minutes


And the video:


----------



## chrwel14

I got my epson 8350 mounted the other day at "optimal height". The problem is that "optimal height" means I cannot stand infront of it without casting a shadow on the screen. Which means I cannot play move or kinect.


Question is: How much does vertical shift on the 8350 impact PQ? If I bring it up 6 inches would I be able to see a difference?


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrwel14* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my epson 8350 mounted the other day at "optimal height". The problem is that "optimal height" means I cannot stand infront of it without casting a shadow on the screen. Which means I cannot play move or kinect.
> 
> 
> Question is: How much does vertical shift on the 8350 impact PQ? If I bring it up 6 inches would I be able to see a difference?



None, if any very very little PQ impact.


----------



## below90hz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *chrwel14* 
I got my epson 8350 mounted the other day at "optimal height". The problem is that "optimal height" means I cannot stand infront of it without casting a shadow on the screen. Which means I cannot play move or kinect.


Question is: How much does vertical shift on the 8350 impact PQ? If I bring it up 6 inches would I be able to see a difference?
my 8350 sits 6" down from my 8ft ceiling and I have the bottom edge of the picture projected at 24" up from the floor. there is zero impact on PQ. so take it up as high as you want.


----------



## RacerX135

Quote:

Originally Posted by *chrwel14*
I got my epson 8350 mounted the other day at "optimal height". The problem is that "optimal height" means I cannot stand infront of it without casting a shadow on the screen. Which means I cannot play move or kinect.


Question is: How much does vertical shift on the 8350 impact PQ? If I bring it up 6 inches would I be able to see a difference?
Good news: Kinekt works better in darker room (not totally dark)


Bad News: Kinekt may not line that projector light shining at it's camera.


Let me know how you make out with it.


Sorry I did not actually answer question.


----------



## jpbledsoe

I see from another post that the aspect ratio is locked at 16:9 for the HDMI inputs.


We had planned to phase out our s-video signals and go all HDMI for everything: powerpoint slides, camera, DVD, blu-ray.


To present powerpoint slides at 16:9 aspect ratio via a PJ HDMI port without aspect distortion, should I simply size the slides at 16:9 ratio and set the computer resolution at 16:9 as well?


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## mekkerl

Any quick thoughts?


Quote:

Originally Posted by *mekkerl* 
I've finally decided on the 8350...but have a question on mounting.


Unfortunately, the largest screen i can do is a 92" Focupix Flexio.


Questions in where to mount the projector. I can ceiling mount it about 10' from the screen, just above the sitting area (so we would be sitting directly under the projector). Or, I can ceiling mount it about 14' from the screen...and have the project behind us.


Can this projector handle either location (PQ)?


----------



## jtheman

Hi fellows


I've been to my father in law sports bar yesterday where I installed the epson 8350 for UFC 124,we started the projector on a 95 inch screen and with a result of having a black vertical line on the right side of the screen just 2 inch from the border.Having a lot of customers,I didn't reset,unplug or test anything but does somebody had the same problem or now what the problem could be,2 days ago everything was fine,I will do some test today hoping its no something with the lamp...any ideas????


thanks

JF


----------



## dvrmstrng

Today I will be opening up, and testing my 8350 for the first time. This is my first new projector and was wondering what I should be on the lookout for right off the bat.


1. That both the zoom and focus knobs turn freely

2. Convergence (what is acceptable, 1 pixel)

3. Any type of vertical or horizontal banding

4. Others?


----------



## mcmountainman

I just bought a open box 8350 from BB ( less than 900 bucks yoo hoo )so far everything seems OK, little red haze in the right hand lower corner but Ive read that that will fade as panels break in. My problem is that I can only get one test pattern to show up . According to the manual(pg 40 ) I should be able to get more than that. For instance when I tried to calibrate color with the bench mark high def blu ray and I displayed the color bar pattern I should be able to isolate colors (RGB) but all I get is the geometry pattern. So is this normal ?

Im still testing this projector out thoroughly as I already own a Marantz 4001 and I want to make sure nothing is wrong with my new Epson ! I have till Jan 31 to decide. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Vao

How did you get it so cheap?


----------



## Tolkien

It looks like I bought the wrong mount....

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage 


It was recommended earlier in this thread and I bought it... but for some reason I can't seem to install it! Anyone have any suggestions on how to go about this? Or should I buy a mount specifically set for the 8350?


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19635585
> 
> 
> It looks like I bought the wrong mount....
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
> 
> 
> It was recommended earlier in this thread and I bought it... but for some reason I can't seem to install it! Anyone have any suggestions on how to go about this? Or should I buy a mount specifically set for the 8350?



this is what u need

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 



then watch the video a few post before yours


----------



## Soules75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19635513
> 
> 
> How did you get it so cheap?



Yes, please do tell. I would love to only pay $900!!!


----------



## Chad T

He said it was "open box".


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad T* /forum/post/19636513
> 
> 
> He said it was "open box".



...but the $900 is a great deal, even for an open box unit. I saw an open box 8350 at my local BB going for $1150 - which is definitely _not_ a deal!!


----------



## mcmountainman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DGF* 
...but the $900 is a great deal, even for an open box unit. I saw an open box 8350 at my local BB going for $1150 - which is definitely _not_ a deal!!
Hi , It was an open box 899.00 to be precise . Has 35 hrs on the lamp checked that . Figure I had nothing too lose I get to try it out for nearly two months ( which I wont do I'll either keep it or return it this week ) . Manager says no restocking fee plus I got 36 months interest free ! . So far pretty nice this is my first LCD had a 4850 & my Marantz which are both DLP . Colors on the Epson seem more accurate & its definitely much much quieter ! Few things bugging me though blacks arent quite as good as the Marantz but good enough for me , Also the dynamic iris is kinda noisey plus its BIG !

Still trying decide to keep it or not . Still no info on those test patterns might call Epson support tomorrow.


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mcmountainman* 
Hi , It was an open box 899.00 to be precise . Has 35 hrs on the lamp checked that . Figure I had nothing too lose I get to try it out for nearly two months ( which I wont do I'll either keep it or return it this week ) . Manager says no restocking fee plus I got 36 months interest free ! . So far pretty nice this is my first LCD had a 4850 & my Marantz which are both DLP . Colors on the Epson seem more accurate & its definitely much much quieter ! Few things bugging me though blacks arent quite as good as the Marantz but good enough for me , Also the dynamic iris is kinda noisey plus its BIG !

Still trying decide to keep it or not . Still no info on those test patterns might call Epson support tomorrow.
I was surprised too at the size when I opened the box at the size... Maybe i should return mine and go back in a few days and buy it open box heh... i got it at the 1199 reg sale price with 36 month deal though too...


----------



## below90hz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19635585
> 
> 
> It looks like I bought the wrong mount....
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
> 
> 
> It was recommended earlier in this thread and I bought it... but for some reason I can't seem to install it! Anyone have any suggestions on how to go about this? Or should I buy a mount specifically set for the 8350?



like domingos said, the video posted on the previous page is for a different mount, but it seems to me the steps would pretty much be the same for the mount you have, but instead of using two 2" mending plates and two 3" plates, get four 3" mending plates (the holes on the Epson 8350 are 11.7" apart, so measure your mount, you might be able to get away with four 2" mending plates to extend its reach).


its super easy to do, rock solid and cheap.


----------



## below90hz

TRUE STORY


For those of you shopping around and doing your research, consider the following:


Got my 8350 last weekend. Installed it this Wednesday. I have it mounted on the ceiling exactly 13ft back from my viewing wall. I do not have a screen, it just so happens that my wall is painted the PERFECT shade of gray for this projector. Blacks are as black as they can get, in fact its very difficult to see the black bars when watching a letterbox movie, but at the same time the image is bright and vivid, colors are amazing and the picture is razor sharp.


So I had my parents over this evening to watch Shrek 3. I have (6) 50watt track-style ceiling lights aimed to keep light away from the front wall while still lighting the seating area. Watching with the lights on at 50% is completely watchable, not much different from watching the 65" Mitsu it replaced (and that bad boy had a gorgeous picture).


After my parent's initial "ooo's" and "aaah's", we turn off the lights and watch the movie. The movie ends and I turn the lights back on. My dad is awestruck. He starts asking how I get the picture from the ceiling to the wall. I thought it was a dumb question but I explained how I prewired my basement before I finished it. But that wasn't what he was looking for. He was still perplexed. Then he referred to the projected image as my new TV. I said "dad, that's not a TV, that's just an image from the projector like at the movies." He still didn't believe me - mind you my dad has one of Panasonic's higher end 50" plasmas, so its not like he's used to an inferior picture quality. It wasn't until I turned on the lights at full blast that he finally realized what he was looking at.


"The picture just has so much depth, I can't believe its not a TV." That's all he could say. I've been thinking the same thing all week. I can't believe how good it looks. And I can't believe it looks that good on a regular old painted wall. But now I know its not just me, it really looks _amazing_.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *below90hz* /forum/post/19637947
> 
> 
> like domingos said, the video posted on the previous page is for a different mount, but it seems to me the steps would pretty much be the same for the mount you have, but instead of using two 2" mending plates and two 3" plates, get four 3" mending plates (the holes on the Epson 8350 are 11.7" apart, so measure your mount, you might be able to get away with four 2" mending plates to extend its reach).
> 
> 
> its super easy to do, rock solid and cheap.



My contractor just modified the 50 lb mount for the projector's inauguration last night. I think by enlarging one of the holes of the projector-attaching sliding arms, he was able to connect three of the four arms from the mount. I was okay with this since it's just a temporary solution for about $20 shipped, until the aluminium shelf mount can be made.


----------



## fitbrit

I have pretty much the same experience after one night of viewing. I had 13 people over for last night's UFC event.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *off topic stuff that you can skip over* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought the PPV from UFClive.com -i.e. a pseudo HD stream. It sucked - it was so pixelated that I'd be surprised if it were more than 240 lines of resolution. The last time I bought an event from them the same way, it was much better. I have a 7 mbps connection so it should have been better than that. I've seen pirated streams better than that.



After the fights, I had to throw on Avatar to show them "what the projector was capable of". Unfortunately, it was my first time using a laptop that was new to me, and I didn't realise how much underscan the ATi card was throwing onto the screen. I was unable to eliminate it from the laptop's side.

However, even with that handicap, my guests were blown away. The fact that they loved the whole home theatre set-up (80% complete) was also a source of pride.


Today, my wife and I watched two episodes of lost in the basement with the 8350, eschewing the media room's comfy couch for a mat on the floor and a 120" screen. This was the ultimate victory. The picture quality is as good as my 61" LED DLP, but I must say that even 720p material suffers a little up so close to a huge screen compared to 1080p sourced viewing.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *below90hz* /forum/post/19638041
> 
> 
> TRUE STORY
> 
> 
> For those of you shopping around and doing your research, consider the following:
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 last weekend. Installed it this Wednesday. I have it mounted on the ceiling exactly 13ft back from my viewing wall. I do not have a screen, it just so happens that my wall is painted the PERFECT shade of gray for this projector. Blacks are as black as they can get, in fact its very difficult to see the black bars when watching a letterbox movie, but at the same time the image is bright and vivid, colors are amazing and the picture is razor sharp.
> 
> 
> So I had my parents over this evening to watch Shrek 3. I have (6) 50watt track-style ceiling lights aimed to keep light away from the front wall while still lighting the seating area. Watching with the lights on at 50% is completely watchable, not much different from watching the 65" Mitsu it replaced (and that bad boy had a gorgeous picture).
> 
> 
> After my parent's initial "ooo's" and "aaah's", we turn off the lights and watch the movie. The movie ends and I turn the lights back on. My dad is awestruck. He starts asking how I get the picture from the ceiling to the wall. I thought it was a dumb question but I explained how I prewired my basement before I finished it. But that wasn't what he was looking for. He was still perplexed. Then he referred to the projected image as my new TV. I said "dad, that's not a TV, that's just an image from the projector like at the movies." He still didn't believe me - mind you my dad has one of Panasonic's higher end 50" plasmas, so its not like he's used to an inferior picture quality. It wasn't until I turned on the lights at full blast that he finally realized what he was looking at.
> 
> 
> "The picture just has so much depth, I can't believe its not a TV." That's all he could say. I've been thinking the same thing all week. I can't believe how good it looks. And I can't believe it looks that good on a regular old painted wall. But now I know its not just me, it really looks _amazing_.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19635585
> 
> 
> It looks like I bought the wrong mount....
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
> 
> 
> It was recommended earlier in this thread and I bought it... but for some reason I can't seem to install it! Anyone have any suggestions on how to go about this? Or should I buy a mount specifically set for the 8350?



Hey Tolkien,

I bought the same mount. I got it to work but a few things:

Do not use the supplied anchors!!! I could not get them to work so I went and bought something decent from home depot.


I also bought a universal adapter plate: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 



I had to drill holes into this thing and I got everything to work. After seeing the mount, I realized that I probably didn't need the plate and could have gotten some metal brackets from home depot to extend the holes to the ones you need for the 8350. When I get a chance I'll take a pic for you if you need.


So far so good. Just mounted yesterday.


----------



## Tolkien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bonjovi* /forum/post/19638343
> 
> 
> Hey Tolkien,
> 
> I bought the same mount. I got it to work but a few things:
> 
> Do not use the supplied anchors!!! I could not get them to work so I went and bought something decent from home depot.
> 
> 
> I also bought a universal adapter plate: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> 
> I had to drill holes into this thing and I got everything to work. After seeing the mount, I realized that I probably didn't need the plate and could have gotten some metal brackets from home depot to extend the holes to the ones you need for the 8350. When I get a chance I'll take a pic for you if you need.
> 
> 
> So far so good. Just mounted yesterday.



Thanks for the response. So even after buying the universal plate you still had to do some drilling? Is this in order to fit the universal plate onto the projector or the mount onto the plate?


Thanks.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *below90hz* /forum/post/19638041
> 
> 
> TRUE STORY
> 
> 
> For those of you shopping around and doing your research, consider the following:
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 last weekend. Installed it this Wednesday. I have it mounted on the ceiling exactly 13ft back from my viewing wall. I do not have a screen, it just so happens that my wall is painted the PERFECT shade of gray for this projector. Blacks are as black as they can get, in fact its very difficult to see the black bars when watching a letterbox movie, but at the same time the image is bright and vivid, colors are amazing and the picture is razor sharp.
> 
> 
> So I had my parents over this evening to watch Shrek 3. I have (6) 50watt track-style ceiling lights aimed to keep light away from the front wall while still lighting the seating area. Watching with the lights on at 50% is completely watchable, not much different from watching the 65" Mitsu it replaced (and that bad boy had a gorgeous picture).
> 
> 
> After my parent's initial "ooo's" and "aaah's", we turn off the lights and watch the movie. The movie ends and I turn the lights back on. My dad is awestruck. He starts asking how I get the picture from the ceiling to the wall. I thought it was a dumb question but I explained how I prewired my basement before I finished it. But that wasn't what he was looking for. He was still perplexed. Then he referred to the projected image as my new TV. I said "dad, that's not a TV, that's just an image from the projector like at the movies." He still didn't believe me - mind you my dad has one of Panasonic's higher end 50" plasmas, so its not like he's used to an inferior picture quality. It wasn't until I turned on the lights at full blast that he finally realized what he was looking at.
> 
> 
> "The picture just has so much depth, I can't believe its not a TV." That's all he could say. I've been thinking the same thing all week. I can't believe how good it looks. And I can't believe it looks that good on a regular old painted wall. But now I know its not just me, it really looks _amazing_.



Could you post some pictures? !


----------



## garretwp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19638426
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. So even after buying the universal plate you still had to do some drilling? Is this in order to fit the universal plate onto the projector or the mount onto the plate?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Tolkien,


Look at the pictures posted by one of the forum members here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4414116...7625301526364/ 


This is what my father and I did and works perfect. We just bought 3/4" wide 1/8" think flat stock from lowes/home depot and cut two inch pieces and drilled a few holes. You can also get the mount to mount with three of the four arms.


- Garrett


----------



## soutthpaw

With all the posted issues on the mount fitting problems, maybe I need to start selling the 1/4" solid aluminum plate that I made to mount my projector. Benefits are it is super sturdy, aluminum dissipates heat extremely fast and its easy to drill and add your own brackets to fit the mounting retirements  .


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/19635717
> 
> 
> this is what u need
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> 
> then watch the video a few post before yours



Bought this same mount from Ebay (Mount Direct?) 5 yrs ago. Used it for Benq PE7700 then on Mit. HC4900. Now using it on 8350 no need to modify anything all the parts are there. The only thing to watch out for is don't over tighten scews they will strip.


mark


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19627823
> 
> 
> What kind of size where you hoping for?
> 
> 
> My throw is like 8.5 ft and the projector is over my seating position on a shelf. Using max zoom I get about 82 inches diag. And its plenty big from my seating position. So with your throw, if you can position your pj over the seating area with a mount, you should have no problem getting over 100 inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the blinds closed and a high gain screen, I don't think you will have any problem using this pj with some ambient light. If you get a high contrast WITH gain, even better in your situation.




Ah, ok. I was looking for 92 or bigger









120.... but I think I may be too close to the screen for that.


As others have said here, I think it is time to get the projector and see what it can do in 'real life'.










Thanks!


----------



## greg631




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbshooter* /forum/post/19627671
> 
> 
> Have you consider projecting to the other wall with the small window?



I had, but based on the layout, I'd have trouble moving the furniture around to make it a living room, and also tv viewing.


it would be functional, but would look weird when not watching tv.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19615268
> 
> 
> Replacement projector just arrived and the focus and zoom knob's are locked up solid!
> 
> 
> Mac





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19630278
> 
> 
> The foam ring is only to protect the lens shift feature in shipping. The vertical banding was from the **Dalite Video Spectra Screen**
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot explain this. I have 2 other projectors that look perfectly fine on the same screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Mac



Yeah. I was referring to your post where you say that the focus/zoom rings were locked up solid. I thought perhaps you didn't see the foam ring wedged in there and was causing the issue. I know when I got my projector I didn't even see the foam ring until I read the warning label.

I know nothing about screens so I have no idea why that Dalite is giving you problems.


----------



## bonjovi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19638426
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. So even after buying the universal plate you still had to do some drilling? Is this in order to fit the universal plate onto the projector or the mount onto the plate?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yeah, unfortunately I had to make holes for both:

projector onto universal plate (two holes)

and

universal plate onto bracket mounting plate (one hole).

I didn't use the brackets that came with the projector because I had the universal plate, but looking back on it, I think it would have been much easier to go to home depot and just extend out those arms on the bracket using mending plates.


My wife left the camera at her sisters so I'm going to have to take phone pics later when I get home. The universal plate worked for me as it was simple for me to drill the holes and I had already ordered the plate in advance but I think a mending plate from home depot would be easier.


----------



## below90hz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/19638426
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. So even after buying the universal plate you still had to do some drilling? Is this in order to fit the universal plate onto the projector or the mount onto the plate?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



tolkien just watch the video, there is no drilling or cutting involved with my method with the mending plates, and it will only take 10-15 minutes to complete. It will take more time to attach it to the ceiling and adjust for viewing than it will to do the mod.


----------



## Tolkien

Alright, will do - Thanks a bunch guys!


----------



## captainobvious99

Seems like a good place to post this question since there are so many 8350 users here...


Im torn between picking up the 8350, or spending the extra money on a refurbed 8500ub / new 8700ub. One of the only reasons would be the frame interpolation. Now, I use it a bit for games and of course for animated movies like pixar stuff, and occasionally for live action stuff like fights and sports. But for movie watching in general, its a no-no as it distorts what my brain has come to accept as normal with the movies 24p flicker.










I guess my question is, do you have any regrets about going with the 8350? Do you miss not having the FI? Any other reasons which should steer me toward/away from the 8350 and into the 8500/8700?


Thank you for your responses. Im looking forward to picking up a new Epson in the next week or two here. (For reference, my friends have a 6500 and an 8500ub respectively. Picture on both is fantastic, and the customer service is what has really helped to steer me toward an Epson. The friend with the 8500 actually HAD a 6500 and had several replacements that kept failing...they finally just upgraded him to an 8500UB to satisfy him.


----------



## [email protected]

Hello all,


I'm interested in buying the 8350, and have a novice question about brightness. My current projector (an aged Sanyo PLV60HT - remember those?) sits on a shelf 20 feet from the screen, and projects a 135-inch image onto a screen with a gain of 1. The picture is very bright when the bulb is new - I usually have to turn it down from its default contrast when calibrating.


I looked on Projector Central's calculator to ensure that the Epson would also be able to shoot a 135" image at 20 feet, but, to my surprise, the calculator showed the the Epson would be much dimmer than the outgoing Sanyo: whereas the Sanyo is calculated at 19fL (foot lumens? foot lamberts?), the Epson is rated at only 9fL, or significantly less than half!


Given that the Epson is rated at 2000 ANSI Lumens and the Sanyo at only 1200, and the shooting distance and diagonal size are equal, does that even make sense? I understand that projectors lose brightness when they zoom, and the Epson would be zoomed at 1.41x compared to being basically zoomed all the way out on my Sanyo, but I can't imagine a projector with only 60% the rated brightness being 211% of the brightness because of a difference in zoom!


Is that just a failure on the part of the calculator, or is there something glaring I don't know?


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *captainobvious99* /forum/post/19641051
> 
> 
> Seems like a good place to post this question since there are so many 8350 users here...
> 
> 
> Im torn between picking up the 8350, or spending the extra money on a refurbed 8500ub / new 8700ub. One of the only reasons would be the frame interpolation. Now, I use it a bit for games and of course for animated movies like pixar stuff, and occasionally for live action stuff like fights and sports. But for movie watching in general, its a no-no as it distorts what my brain has come to accept as normal with the movies 24p flicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my question is, do you have any regrets about going with the 8350? Do you miss not having the FI? Any other reasons which should steer me toward/away from the 8350 and into the 8500/8700?
> 
> 
> Thank you for your responses. Im looking forward to picking up a new Epson in the next week or two here. (For reference, my friends have a 6500 and an 8500ub respectively. Picture on both is fantastic, and the customer service is what has really helped to steer me toward an Epson. The friend with the 8500 actually HAD a 6500 and had several replacements that kept failing...they finally just upgraded him to an 8500UB to satisfy him.



I'm very happy with my 8350. But I've never owned a display with FI. I've seen sets at my local Besy Buy and Frys with it on and personally don't care for it. But havn't seen how it affects games or animatated movies. If your friends didn't have the 8500ub to compare to I'd say go with the 8350. It's hard to miss something you've never really seen before. But since your friends do own projectors with FI, and you enjoy that feature for certain materials, I'd lean toward the 8500/8700. Or just purchase an 8350 from a retailer that will accept a return. I'm guessing any respectable dealer would happily except a return to sell you a more expensive model. Oh and don't forget, I believe the 8700 comes with spare bulb. But, I must say I'm very satisfied with my 8350.


----------



## captainobvious99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19641333
> 
> 
> I'm very happy with my 8350. But I've never owned a display with FI. I've seen sets at my local Besy Buy and Frys with it on and personally don't care for it. But havn't seen how it affects games or animatated movies. If your friends didn't have the 8500ub to compare to I'd say go with the 8350. It's hard to miss something you've never really seen before. But since your friends do own projectors with FI, and you enjoy that feature for certain materials, I'd lean toward the 8500/8700. Or just purchase an 8350 from a retailer that will accept a return. I'm guessing any respectable dealer would happily except a return to sell you a more expensive model. Oh and don't forget, I believe the 8700 comes with spare bulb. But, I must say I'm very satisfied with my 8350.



Buster-

Thanks for your response. The problem with FI is that if its not done very well, the artifacts are very noticeable and distracting. I think it works well for games because of how many frames there are and how high the resolution is. That, and its gotta be easier for the software to 'guess' what the picture should look like between frames on a game then actual live video or movies. It does work well on the games on my XBR lcd tv, but not so great outside of that. For me it would be a decent feature to have for occasional use, but for the additional 800 bux of cost to go with the 8700, its a tough call. There are certainly other benefits to the 8500/8700 as well of course.

I did find 8500 refurbs for sale for somewhere in between the 8350 and 8700 prices (dont want to post it per the forum rules), but Im not sure if Im sold on buying a refurb unit...

If I knew there were some sort of significant upgrades between the 8500 and 8700 Id probably just bite the bullet, but it seems like the same unit with a new model name


----------



## hanly2

Ok I finally got my monoprice mount in the mail today, a little dissapointed to see that it only comes with 3 long extensions instead of 4, but I have some extensions anyway. Also I decided to open the pj for the 1st time and earlier I had asked whether to center the pj or the lens with the screen well not sure if this is right or not but my lens on my pj does not point straight ahead instead it is tilted toward the center of the pj for some reason so when I center the pj it is centered on the screen. Is the lens supposed to be like this? I will take a pic if it will help?


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19641846
> 
> 
> ......earlier I had asked whether to center the pj or the lens with the screen well not sure if this is right or not but my lens on my pj does not point straight ahead instead it is tilted toward the center of the pj for some reason so when I center the pj it is centered on the screen. Is the lens supposed to be like this? I will take a pic if it will help?



I got kinda lost with your description _["....my lens on my pj does not point straight ahead instead it is tilted toward the center of the pj_" - do you really mean this??].


But anyway, what you need to imagine is a thin beam of light (like a laser) coming straight out of the center of the lens - this has to hit the _plane_ of the screen at 90 degrees (both horizontally and vertically). At this point, it almost certainly won't be anywhere near to the actual center of the screen.


Once you have successfully achieved this, you use the two image shifting wheels (H & V) to move the image to where you need it.

_Do not_ angle the projector towards the center of the screen (which is what I think you're doing).


Hope I understood correctly what you were actually asking!


----------



## dvrmstrng

Just wanted to post an update: My 8350 came in, I put it where it will be mounted it and although the screen is not finished I turned it on for about 10 minutes to get a look. With EVERY light on in my basement on dynamic mode this projector is as bright as any TV I have seen, and looks even better because of the lack of reflections (coming from a plasma) coming off the (for now) bare wall.


I am beyond impressed and have not even gotten the screen up yet.


----------



## hanly2

DGF, What I mean is that when I look down on the projector the lens does not look to be pointing directly forward it looks like it is pointing to the right? Here is some pics. Does this look right?


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19642289
> 
> 
> DGF, What I mean is that when I look down on the projector the lens does not look to be pointing directly forward it looks like it is pointing to the right? Here is some pics. Does this look right?



Sorry....you really did mean it looked tilted inwards!


I just ran downstairs to check my own 8350 and do see a similar geometry to yours - maybe not quite as exaggerated, but that may be due to the angles in your shots.


Also check out these shots (post# 2047) - it again shows what looks to be a slightly angled lens (?).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19615574
> 
> 
> Looks like Epsons packaging is really lacking. The lens comes in contact with their spring board packaging.
> 
> 
> 
> Good Projector (Notice gap in between focus and zoom ring)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad Projector




For me, as long as I can get the projected image to be perfectly rectangular, that is the acid test.


So, not sure I've added anything, but a slight lens angling does look to be pretty normal. Any other takers??


Dave


----------



## hanly2

Well thats a relief on to the mounting stage then!!


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19638130
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, it was my first time using a laptop that was new to me, and I didn't realise how much underscan the ATi card was throwing onto the screen. I was unable to eliminate it from the laptop's side.



This shows you exactly how to use scaling with ati cards.

http://www.aoclarkejr.com/ati-cataly...n-options.html


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19627914
> 
> 
> look at the demos between 8350 and 8700! I don't believe it!
> 
> http://www.hometheaterpeople.com/pro...ideo-demos.asp



Nice find! However I'm with you, I don't see how this could be a true representation. If so the 6500ub has the best picture!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19643836
> 
> 
> This shows you exactly how to use scaling with ati cards.
> 
> http://www.aoclarkejr.com/ati-cataly...n-options.html



Thanks very much! I wasn't planning to use the laptop as the video source for much longer as I have a dedicated HTPC for that room. That will come out once the dust literally settles after construction is finished. However, I can't believe I missed that configure option, so perhaps I'll have more enjoyment for the couple of weeks I do utilise it.


----------



## redfox102

Well after reading 30 pages or so i decided to order the 8350 from projector people for $1199. I really shouldn't have though because i need to see things for myself before i order them







And it's also my very first projector, so despite the screen shots and all i still don't know how it looks from my point of view (not that the screen shots weren't helpful, they at least give me some idea of how it works). One question, how is gaming on this projector? Does anyone know the actual response time? Gaming and movies are the reasons why i got this thing. I'm just hoping i can play gran turismo 5 without much lag. My plan when it gets here is to find a good deal on a logitec driving force gt and then add better pedals a racing seat. Having all that will make for an incredibly realistic experience







I have a ton of work to do though, the room im going to use is literally full of junk at the moment (old tv's, furniture, tables, etc...), but i will have a 12ft throw so that should get me 100" without a problem. I can't wait to break my back this week carrying useless heavy junk down the stairs







And after that i'll have to paint the room, then i'll have to wire my speakers, then I'll have to get a screen, then i'll have find a way to use the directv box in the room seeing as the room wasn't wired for it (oh boy, i get to do some rewiring...!). and im sure im forgetting something... This is gonna be a fun week, hopefully it pays off. Well, wish me luck.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19644038
> 
> 
> Thanks very much! I wasn't planning to use the laptop as the video source for much longer as I have a dedicated HTPC for that room. That will come out once the dust literally settles after construction is finished. However, I can't believe I missed that configure option, so perhaps I'll have more enjoyment for the couple of weeks I do utilise it.



No problem. It will look a lot better, the image should look way more crisp to!


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19644261
> 
> 
> One question, how is gaming on this projector? Does anyone know the actual response time? Gaming and movies are the reasons why i got this thing. I'm just hoping i can play gran turismo 5 without much lag.



I game with this pj using PC, XBOX and PS3. I'm a big racing game fan myself, so I know precision is essential, and there is *NO* lag what so ever. I recently beat Need for Speed Shift on PC with this pj. Racing at 1080p on a 100"+ screen is an amazing experience, especially combined with a nice surround sound set up.


When it comes to gaming and movies etc. my only gripe about this pj is... its all you want to do!


----------



## fitbrit

I think you did the right and the wrong thing. The 8350 is my first projector too, and I'm really blown away. My 61" 1080p Samsung LED DLP has until now given me an amazing picture quality. The 8350 literally expands on that, keeping that quality and making it 4x bigger, in my case. So let me be another data point to say that you won't be disappointed for a first projector.

You did the right thing.

Also, several people have said that there's no discernible lag for gaming at all.


You seem to have a lot of work to do in your room. Here's where I think you may have been a bit hasty. If you can clear the room, paint it, get the speakers set up and install a screen in less than two weeks, my hat's off to you. However, you might have been able to wait until more of the room is ready, and perhaps snagged a post-Christmas deal, saving a couple of hundred dollars (perhaps) and a few weeks of extra warranty.


If the place you got it from has a no-questions asked return policy, I might be tempted to open the projector, throw an image onto the wall and edcide on projector placement screen size etc. Then pack it up, return it, and get your room as close to ready as you can bear without setting up the projector. Buy a brand new one at _that_ time.


BTW, with a real 12ft throw (from screen to lens) you could get 120" if the projection wall is big enough.







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19644261
> 
> 
> Well after reading 30 pages or so i decided to order the 8350 from projector people for $1199. I really shouldn't have though because i need to see things for myself before i order them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's also my very first projector, so despite the screen shots and all i still don't know how it looks from my point of view (not that the screen shots weren't helpful, they at least give me some idea of how it works). One question, how is gaming on this projector? Does anyone know the actual response time? Gaming and movies are the reasons why i got this thing. I'm just hoping i can play gran turismo 5 without much lag. My plan when it gets here is to find a good deal on a logitec driving force gt and then add better pedals a racing seat. Having all that will make for an incredibly realistic experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a ton of work to do though, the room im going to use is literally full of junk at the moment (old tv's, furniture, tables, etc...), but i will have a 12ft throw so that should get me 100" without a problem. I can't wait to break my back this week carrying useless heavy junk down the stairs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after that i'll have to paint the room, then i'll have to wire my speakers, then I'll have to get a screen, then i'll have find a way to use the directv box in the room seeing as the room wasn't wired for it (oh boy, i get to do some rewiring...!). and im sure im forgetting something... This is gonna be a fun week, hopefully it pays off. Well, wish me luck.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19644368
> 
> 
> When it comes to gaming and movies etc. my only gripe about this pj is... its all you want to do!



Amen to that! I'm dying to get into the basement theatre room even right now at midnight. I can foresee installing a foam flip chair/bed or two down there.


----------



## edmove

Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Can someone confirm that if I build a ceiling shelf that I do not need to flip the projector over. It can sit on its feet the shelf.


A photo would be great if you are using a ceiling shelf or box.


Thanks


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19644295
> 
> 
> No problem. It will look a lot better, the image should look way more crisp to!



Yes, I can't wait to see a native resolution image on this!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19644407
> 
> 
> Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Can someone confirm that if I build a ceiling shelf that I do not need to flip the projector over. It can sit on its feet the shelf.
> 
> 
> A photo would be great if you are using a ceiling shelf or box.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I can confirm this. My test throw was done upright, on top of several boxes, close to the ceiling. I then packed the projector away while the room was being further constructed. Now it's mounted in the same position upside down and either works perfectly.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19644399
> 
> 
> I think you did the right and the wrong thing. The 8350 is my first projector too, and I'm really blown away. My 61" 1080p Samsung LED DLP has until now given me an amazing picture quality. The 8350 literally expands on that, keeping that quality and making it 4x bigger, in my case. So let me be another data point to say that you won't be disappointed for a first projector.
> 
> You did the right thing.
> 
> Also, several people have said that there's no discernible lag for gaming at all.
> 
> 
> You seem to have a lot of work to do in your room. Here's where I think you may have been a bit hasty. If you can clear the room, paint it, get the speakers set up and install a screen in less than two weeks, my hat's off to you. However, you might have been able to wait until more of the room is ready, and perhaps snagged a post-Christmas deal, saving a couple of hundred dollars (perhaps) and a few weeks of extra warranty.
> 
> 
> If the place you got it from has a no-questions asked return policy, I might be tempted to open the projector, throw an image onto the wall and edcide on projector placement screen size etc. Then pack it up, return it, and get your room as close to ready as you can bear without setting up the projector. Buy a brand new one at _that_ time.
> 
> 
> BTW, with a real 12ft throw (from screen to lens) you could get 120" if the projection wall is big enough.



I'm not worried, i have a temporary place to put it so it's not like it's going to be sitting there for weeks. And a couple hundred less isn't a huge deal to me, im an impatient guy







I'm actually considering an electric screen in front of my 42" tv in my living room now... I just like the idea of flipping a switch and having a 100" screen come down over my 42" screen, sounds so cool.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19644368
> 
> 
> I game with this pj using PC, XBOX and PS3. I'm a big racing game fan myself, so I know precision is essential, and there is *NO* lag what so ever. I recently beat Need for Speed Shift on PC with this pj. Racing at 1080p on a 100"+ screen is an amazing experience, especially combined with a nice surround sound set up.
> 
> 
> When it comes to gaming and movies etc. my only gripe about this pj is... its all you want to do!



Dude thanks a lot! It's great to hear that from another racing fan! Now i don't have to worry, i guess I'm off to find a racing wheel now


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19644455
> 
> 
> I'm not worried, i have a temporary place to put it so it's not like it's going to be sitting there for weeks. And a couple hundred less isn't a huge deal to me, im an impatient guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually considering an electric screen in front of my 42" tv in my living room now... I just like the idea of flipping a switch and having a 100" screen come down over my 42" screen, sounds so cool.



That's what i was planning too. We built a recess in the wall for a TV, up to 60", and then i was planning a 120" motorised screen. That's still the ultimate plan, but MississippiMan was always going on about how for a fraction of that cost, one could make their own screen. That's what I ended up doing. It's allowed me to have a temporary screen to enjoy my projector for several weeks (I'm also impatient) while the rest of the room is finished. The screen's so good, though, that I may invest even more in it - painting it "Silverfire" for example, and building a 3' velvet trim for it. The temorary solution may become the permanent one.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19644407
> 
> 
> Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Can someone confirm that if I build a ceiling shelf that I do not need to flip the projector over. It can sit on its feet the shelf.
> 
> 
> A photo would be great if you are using a ceiling shelf or box.
> 
> 
> Thanks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19644455
> 
> 
> I'm not worried, i have a temporary place to put it so it's not like it's going to be sitting there for weeks. And a couple hundred less isn't a huge deal to me, im an impatient guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually considering an electric screen in front of my 42" tv in my living room now... I just like the idea of flipping a switch and having a 100" screen come down over my 42" screen, sounds so cool.



Here's a pic of my setup. This may help you both out. I'm down south so no basements and the spare bedrooms in my house aren't big enough for a dedicated theater room. So here's my solution in my living room. Hope you like.






































Projector is mounted on an omni-mount shelf about 90" from the floor with a 15' throw. I mounted a 106" cintetension above my entertainment center which I think blends really nice. When my dad first came over he didn't even notice it. The actual picture is about 15" from the floor. Using a HDMI splitter to supply a feed to my TV and the 8350. Just a warning, test your setup before building a shelf. I'm very close to the vertical lens shift limit with this setup.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19644579
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of my setup. This may help you both out. I'm down south so no basements and the spare bedrooms in my house aren't big enough for a dedicated theater room. So here's my solution in my living room. Hope you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector is mounted on an omni-mount shelf about 90" from the floor with a 15' throw. I mounted a 106" cintetension above my entertainment center which I think blends really nice. When my dad first came over he didn't even notice it. The actual picture is about 15" from the floor. Using a HDMI splitter to supply a feed to my TV and the 8350. Just a warning, test your setup before building a shelf. I'm very close to the vertical lens shift limit with this setup.



That's an interesting setup


----------



## BBQ7

Is there any problem with the screen being that low to the ground? Great ideal by the way, it's the best of both worlds.


What size tv is that in the picture?


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/19644906
> 
> 
> Is there any problem with the screen being that low to the ground? Great ideal by the way, it's the best of both worlds.
> 
> 
> What size tv is that in the picture?



There will be a problem if he starts watching a show about cats, that dog will probably tear up the screen HeeHee


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/19644906
> 
> 
> Is there any problem with the screen being that low to the ground? Great ideal by the way, it's the best of both worlds.
> 
> 
> What size tv is that in the picture?



Only problem I see is there is no Maker's Mark on the wet bar that I can see.


----------



## jbrentd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19644579
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of my setup. This may help you both out. I'm down south so no basements and the spare bedrooms in my house aren't big enough for a dedicated theater room. So here's my solution in my living room. Hope you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector is mounted on an omni-mount shelf about 90" from the floor with a 15' throw. I mounted a 106" cintetension above my entertainment center which I think blends really nice. When my dad first came over he didn't even notice it. The actual picture is about 15" from the floor. Using a HDMI splitter to supply a feed to my TV and the 8350. Just a warning, test your setup before building a shelf. I'm very close to the vertical lens shift limit with this setup.



This is incredibly similar to the set up I am in the process of building. Same PJ and almost the same screen (I'm going with the 100" cinetension2). Do you have any details on how you mounted the screen to the top of the entertainment center? I was thinking of using some L brackets that would attach to the top of the shelf and to the screen bracket.


----------



## justinbwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19645383
> 
> 
> Only problem I see is there is no Maker's Mark on the wet bar that I can see.




No Jack either! If we get invited over we will bring him an ample supply!


----------



## BBQ7

I've never owned an entertainment center, would 106 be around the max for screen size for something like this?


----------



## edmove

jbrentd, where did you get that shelf?


----------



## edmove

Another question I have is on the placement of an 8350. I have a situation were I am putting my projector on a shelf. I am wondering how far, if any, the projector lens can be off direct center to the screen. Can I have it say, a foot left or right off actual center of the screen? Can you adjust for such things on the 8350?


See the attachment for what I mean if this doesn't make sense. Assume the green line is center to the screen and ideal projector mounting location. Could the projector be mounted at the red square and still give the correct display perspective? If you can how much is the max.


I have a situation that I might not be able to mount directly center to the screen. I am guessing my 12 inches to the left if facing the back of the room.


Thanks.


----------



## hanly2

Yes that set up will be fine because the lens shift allows you to move the picture 50% of the screen size to the left or right and 100% up and down.


----------



## jbrentd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19647498
> 
> 
> jbrentd, where did you get that shelf?



The shelf above isn't mine, but here's where I found the shelf I am using. It's very strudy and has a simple look to it.

http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=202286992


----------



## edmove

hanly2, thanks. No where close to 50% shift in my setup.


jbrentd, thanks for the link. Pretty clean looking shelf!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbrentd* /forum/post/19648071
> 
> 
> The shelf above isn't mine, but here's where I found the shelf I am using. It's very strudy and has a simple look to it.
> 
> http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=202286992



Same shelf, different outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...2368005&sr=8-3 


.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any problem with the screen being that low to the ground? Great ideal by the way, it's the best of both worlds.
> 
> 
> What size tv is that in the picture?



I haven't had any problems. As long as your sitting it's very comfy. I've watched back to back movies and havn't had any neck strain. The TV behind the screen is a 51" samsung DLP set.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbrentd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This is incredibly similar to the set up I am in the process of building. Same PJ and almost the same screen (I'm going with the 100" cinetension2). Do you have any details on how you mounted the screen to the top of the entertainment center? I was thinking of using some L brackets that would attach to the top of the shelf and to the screen bracket.



I actually didn't have enough surface area on the entertainment center to attach any brackets, plus I wanted to mount the screen a little higher than my entertainment center actually is. I ended up buying some wood, cutting it, staining it, and screwing that into the entertainment center. Then attached the brackets to that. Wasn't that hard and took two days. Staining was the most time consuming because had to let 6 hours between coats. I'm on the road right now but can post detailed pics if you like when I get home Thursday.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another question I have is on the placement of an 8350. I have a situation were I am putting my projector on a shelf. I am wondering how far, if any, the projector lens can be off direct center to the screen. Can I have it say, a foot left or right off actual center of the screen? Can you adjust for such things on the 8350?
> 
> 
> See the attachment for what I mean if this doesn't make sense. Assume the green line is center to the screen and ideal projector mounting location. Could the projector be mounted at the red square and still give the correct display perspective? If you can how much is the max.
> 
> 
> I have a situation that I might not be able to mount directly center to the screen. I am guessing my 12 inches to the left if facing the back of the room.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Don't forget that lens shift varies for each setup. What I mean is if your using max vertical lens shift then you"ll barely be able to move the picture horizantely if at all and vice versa.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BBQ7* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've never owned an entertainment center, would 106 be around the max for screen size for something like this?



Depends all on the Entertainment Center you have. Mine is about 100" across, so the 106" screen just about covers the whole thing. But I've seen monster entertainment centers that dwarf mine. Just gotta get the measuring tape out and see what works best ya know.


----------



## Coderabit

I should get my 8350 in a couple days (UPS lost the first one







). Luckily PP have been great to work with on it.


I have one question, how long a 1 1/2" sched 40 pipe should I get if my ceilings are 7'8" and I'm using a Chief Mount and Peerless Round Ceiling Plate? The screen will be around 92-100" and around 24" off the ground.


Thanks,

Cody


----------



## hanly2

Watching some Flyers hockey right now and noticing a few things. I can actually see the puck compared to my 4805. But the fast motion seems to be more blurry then the 4805. Also noticing a blue/green tint in the bottom right hand corner of the screen, especially noticeable on the ice. Anyone else have that? Also seeing that my screen is dirty as heck I can see everything on it now because the new pj is so bright!


----------



## seraphus

Alright...still trying to find a crt monitor else I'll be using my friend's TV and laptop through S-video. But here are my input lag results relative to my laptop screen through VGA(so take this with a grain of salt):
 

Saw around a 20ms difference max which is less than a frame of lag (.6 to be specific)


Also, I may have discovered problems with my projector. I don't know if I just had it on for too long or did something wrong, but two things popped up that I don't know if they were issues earlier.


First, on black scenes there's a small green circle that appears when switching from a bright scenes (don't think its even noticeable when actually watching something.


Second, when the brightness changes on the projector it now makes some kind of creaking noise.


These things may not be noticeable while actually watching a movie or playing a game, but are these caused by something going wrong?


----------



## redfox102

By my calculations my 8350 should arrive in 38 hours (based on my past experience with fedex they usually deliver between 12pm and 4pm)... the suspense is killing me lol







I'm always so afraid the stuff i order will get here and not work







How many of you ordered from projector people? Was your unit ok?


----------



## hanly2

Ok here is a picture I took of the blue haze, Also noticed it is there on black screens too, it is sort of like the red haze everyone is talking about only blue. When I take a piece of paper and hold it in front of the lens you can really see it, you can also see that the rest of the black looks redish.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Aims* /forum/post/19591295
> 
> 
> Very pleased with my upgrade. Anyone want a nice Z5?



Is that offer still good? Because free is good


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19649138
> 
> 
> Ok here is a picture I took of the blue haze, Also noticed it is there on black screens too, it is sort of like the red haze everyone is talking about only blue. When I take a piece of paper and hold it in front of the lens you can really see it, you can also see that the rest of the black looks redish.



Well maybe it's just me but i can't really tell, maybe take another shot with the lights off? I'm curious to see what you mean.


----------



## hanly2

You can't see that? If you click on the picture you can go to my webshots and zoom in on it, almost the whole right side of the screen is tinted blue ice. Also there are some other pics u might be able to see it better.


----------



## hanly2

Ok I took 2 more pics one is me pointing to where the blue haze is and one is of a piece of blank paper held in front of the lens after I pressed the blank button, you can see that most of the "screen the 16-9 area" is red black, but the far right side is blue. Its very hard to see you have to look full screen.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19649521
> 
> 
> Ok I took 2 more pics one is me pointing to where the blue haze is and one is of a piece of blank paper held in front of the lens after I pressed the blank button, you can see that most of the "screen the 16-9 area" is red black, but the far right side is blue. Its very hard to see you have to look full screen.



Where and how is the projector mounted?


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19649380
> 
> 
> You can't see that? If you click on the picture you can go to my webshots and zoom in on it, almost the whole right side of the screen is tinted blue ice. Also there are some other pics u might be able to see it better.



I guess I'm just not picky, when i looked a second time i could see it. I can't say anything about it because mine hasn't arrived yet but i hope mine doesn't have this issue


----------



## hanly2

upside down on the ceiling 12ft from screen


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19649521
> 
> 
> Ok I took 2 more pics one is me pointing to where the blue haze is and one is of a piece of blank paper held in front of the lens after I pressed the blank button, you can see that most of the "screen the 16-9 area" is red black, but the far right side is blue. Its very hard to see you have to look full screen.



That is not normal, contact support!


----------



## Frollo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok I took 2 more pics one is me pointing to where the blue haze is and one is of a piece of blank paper held in front of the lens after I pressed the blank button, you can see that most of the "screen the 16-9 area" is red black, but the far right side is blue. Its very hard to see you have to look full screen.



This may be a long shot, but the haze seems to have a similar outline of the xmas tree. Are you sure it isn't reflection off the tree?


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19648982
> 
> 
> Second, when the brightness changes on the projector it now makes some kind of creaking noise.



This one sounds like your projector's iris is on. If you don't like it you can turn it off.


----------



## hanly2

I thought it was the tree at first also until I used the 8x10 paper in front of the lens and saw the same thing. Damn I was hoping this was going to just go away, I guess I will wait till after x-mas then contact epson.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19642289
> 
> 
> .......when I look down on the projector the lens does not look to be pointing directly forward it looks like it is pointing to the right? Here is some pics. Does this look right?



Hanly - I just realized what is going on....... I was doing some adjustments on my ceiling mounted 8350 and moved the horizontal shift wheel - the whole lens swivels like the periscope on a submarine! I had thought that the image shifting mechanism was something sophisticated, maybe using an internal prism or mirrors - but it actually involves (in part, at least) physically moving the whole lens assembly that protrudes through the case.


I laughed when I saw it! It was the reason that your angle of offset looked slightly more exaggerated than mine. Check it out!


Dave


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19647498
> 
> 
> where did you get that shelf?



I also saw this shelf that would work for both the weight and size of the pj. Also has a second shelf that I'm sure would come in handy for something. Not a bad price either.

http://www.igonemobile.com/product.aspx?p=22757


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/19650037
> 
> 
> Hanly - I just realized what is going on....... I was doing some adjustments on my ceiling mounted 8350 and moved the horizontal shift wheel - the whole lens swivels like the periscope on a submarine! I had thought that the image shifting mechanism was something sophisticated, maybe using an internal prism or mirrors - but it actually involves (in part, at least) physically moving the whole lens assembly that protrudes through the case.
> 
> 
> I laughed when I saw it! It was the reason that your angle of offset looked slightly more exaggerated than mine. Check it out!
> 
> 
> Dave



Well that's a relief... I thought "oh no i just ordered this projector and now people are having problems with the lens... " And then i saw the guy who has the blue haze and though "oh **** i really bought the wrong projector". At least that's one problem i don't have to worry about now... What I'm worried about most is the "haze" people are getting and the red/blue tint in the corners of the screen. I really hope i get a good one, i want to race as soon as possible... lol


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randy Mathis* /forum/post/19649860
> 
> 
> This one sounds like your projector's iris is on. If you don't like it you can turn it off.



Well, auto Iris has been turned off before then. The noise was actually happening when the projector was receiving no signal then some source. The noise seems to be quieter now so maybe it's just when I leave the projector on for longer.


Got to wonder what that green circle is though....it's very feint and unnoticeable so guess I shouldn't worry about it. Seems like it has to do with the lens or mirrors or something...


----------



## tbreyman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Coderabit*
I should get my 8350 in a couple days (UPS lost the first one







). Luckily PP have been great to work with on it.


I have one question, how long a 1 1/2" sched 40 pipe should I get if my ceilings are 7'8" and I'm using a Chief Mount and Peerless Round Ceiling Plate? The screen will be around 92-100" and around 24" off the ground.


Thanks,

Cody
I hung mine about even with the top of the screen. You can use PVC pipe cut to length as some have suggested. I went with a Peerless extension tube for a bit less than $40. Comes in a variety of size, is solid steel, and is adjustable. I bought the 12-18" version


Todd


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *seraphus* 
Got to wonder what that green circle is though....it's very feint and unnoticeable so guess I shouldn't worry about it. Seems like it has to do with the lens or mirrors or something...
I'm starting to wonder myself if the red/blue/green haze phenomenon has something to do with placement of the projector and the amount of lens shift.


IIRC:

Those who are seeing the red haze have their projector on a shelf and projector is upright. Projector is sitting near top of screen so vertical lens shift must be used to move the picture downward quite a bit


Those who are seeing the blue/green have have their projector on a mount and projector is upside down. Projector is sitting near top of screen so vertical lens shift must be used to move the picture downward quite a bit. Which is actually upward if the projector was sitting upright.


So perhaps when a certain amount of vertical lens shift is used, a haze of some sort appears due to the way the lens most reflect the picture more upward or downward from center.



btw:

I'm almost hitting 100 hours and the red haze looks about the same as it did when it was new. This is the 3 projector with the same exact issue from 3 different stores.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19644455
> 
> 
> I just like the idea of flipping a switch and having a 100" screen come down over my 42" screen, sounds so cool.



Me too.

My concern is how to send the image from Denon AVR-3808 (single HDMI out) to display and/or projector.

I've read mixed results with using a splitter.


I have PS3 and FiOS DVR (Motorola 7232P2); Display is Pioneer 5070.


----------



## ChiefJC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok I took 2 more pics one is me pointing to where the blue haze is and one is of a piece of blank paper held in front of the lens after I pressed the blank button, you can see that most of the "screen the 16-9 area" is red black, but the far right side is blue. Its very hard to see you have to look full screen.



One possibility is that is light reflecting off your tree back onto your screen. The tree looks to be right next to your screen, the shadow even looks to be the shape of it.


Might not be, but a possibility.


Edit, I see someone else already mentioned this. What do you mean you checked it with paper? Have you actually tried removing the tree?


----------



## wcmlutz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Me too.
> 
> My concern is how to send the image from Denon AVR-3808 (single HDMI out) to display and/or projector.
> 
> I've read mixed results with using a splitter.
> 
> 
> I have PS3 and FiOS DVR (Motorola 7232P2); Display is Pioneer 5070.



Only ways are to upgrade your receiver to one that has 2 outputs, such as a Denon AVR-3311, use a HDMI splitter, or feed one of your displays with your receiver's component out.


----------



## jayn_j

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wcmlutz* 
Only ways are to upgrade your receiver to one that has 2 outputs, such as a Denon AVR-3311, use a HDMI splitter, or feed one of your displays with your receiver's component out.
If the screen is going over the other display, they won't be on at the same time. I would think an HDMI switch would be more appropriate for this application. More reliable to boot.


----------



## buster6070

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayn_j*
If the screen is going over the other display, they won't be on at the same time. I would think an HDMI switch would be more appropriate for this application. More reliable to boot.
Switches are more expensive for some reason. I'm using a mid price splitter from monoprice in that exact setup. 35ft flat hdmi cable to projector and no problms.


----------



## jbrentd

Quote:

Originally Posted by *JayMan007* 
Me too.

My concern is how to send the image from Denon AVR-3808 (single HDMI out) to display and/or projector.

I've read mixed results with using a splitter.


I have PS3 and FiOS DVR (Motorola 7232P2); Display is Pioneer 5070.
I have the Denon 2310...it also has only one HDMI out. I bought this splitter from monoprice. It performed well in a simple test. I plan on using my Harmony to tell which device to turn on based on the activity.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19584904
> 
> 
> To everyone thats helped me I APPRECIATE IT.
> 
> Here are my ps3 settings and maybe this will help:
> 
> 
> VIDEO SETTINGS-
> 
> 
> BD/DVD Cinema Conversion- Auto
> 
> DVD Wide Display- Pan and Scan
> 
> BD/DVD Upscaler- Normal
> 
> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)- Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
> 
> BD 1080 24Hz Output (HDMI)- On
> 
> 
> DISPLAY SETTINGS-
> 
> 
> Video Output Settings- 1080p
> 
> Cross Color Reduction Filter- Off
> 
> RGB Full Range (HDMI)- Limited
> 
> Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI)- On
> 
> Deep Color Output (HDMI)- Auto



was it determined that these are the best settings for the PS3 to view blu rays.


----------



## hanly2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19652430
> 
> 
> 
> Edit, I see someone else already mentioned this. What do you mean you checked it with paper? Have you actually tried removing the tree?



I took a sheet of paper and held it in front of the projector the image was then projected on the paper 11 feet from the tree and the problem still existed? Believe me I was really hoping it was the tree! Are other people having this same problem with the blue or just the red?


DGF I understand how the lens shift works but it still looks like it's pointing inward, those pics I took where with the lens centered ie, no shift. But picture is square on screen now to just get rid of that haze!


----------



## Randy Mathis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seraphus* /forum/post/19650636
> 
> 
> 
> Got to wonder what that green circle is though....it's very feint and unnoticeable so guess I shouldn't worry about it. Seems like it has to do with the lens or mirrors or something...



A dust blob on the green panel may show up like that.


When I would get them on my Sanyo Z2 I would take it apart and blow compressed air (from CO2 cartridges) on the panels and then reassemble it.


I don't think that it would be a good idea with the Epson because you would void the warranty.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbrentd* /forum/post/19653474
> 
> 
> I have the Denon 2310...it also has only one HDMI out. I bought this splitter from monoprice. It performed well in a simple test. I plan on using my Harmony to tell which device to turn on based on the activity.



I'm using the 3 in 1 out HDMI switch from Monoprice with great success (what, around $30?)


----------



## athelaw915

Hi everyone, this is my first post and first projector that I am planning to buy. I am looking at getting the Epson 8350 around x-mas or after x-mas time. I have several questions that I want to ask. I look through all 75 pages on this thread and got some of my questions answered but just want to clarify something. I am currently debating on getting a focupix 120 fixed frame 1.3 gain white screen or a .9 gain high contrast grey screen. This projector will be in the living room with several windows, do not really plan on using it during the day time. Mainly night time use for game and movies. I can mount the projector anywhere from 1-20feets. I have a high ceiling so I will be using a wall mount . Which screen will you guys suggest? White or grey? I am thinking about mounting it somewhere between 13 to 16 feet range. I used the projector central calculator to see how bright it will be. With the .9 grey screen, I will have to mount it closer with more zoom to get it as bright as the 1.3 gain white screen. Do zoom affect picture quality? I read 1.55 zoom is the sweet spot for the lens? Dose that mean at that zoom range, it will provide the best picture quality? Thank you


----------



## eliwankenobi

I read somewhere that this lenses are sharpest at maximum zoom....not really sure.


Mine is at max zoom and its very sharp. I'm certainly satisfied.


Since the projector is very bright even on eco mode, I would recommend getting the High Contrast screen and mounting the projector as close as possible. This is way you could use the pj in eco mode where its completely silent, plenty bright and the high contrast screen will help you with the blacks!


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the 3 in 1 out HDMI switch from Monoprice with great success (what, around $30?)



Yea, but for his setup he needs two outs and those start at 50 bucks. For mine I wanted HDMI 1.3 and that was 60. But price difference wasn't as much as I thought. My splitter was 50 with 1.3 HDMI, so only ten bucks.


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19655459
> 
> 
> I read somewhere that this lenses are sharpest at maximum zoom....not really sure.
> 
> 
> Mine is at max zoom and its very sharp. I'm certainly satisfied.
> 
> 
> Since the projector is very bright even on eco mode, I would recommend getting the High Contrast screen and mounting the projector as close as possible. This is way you could use the pj in eco mode where its completely silent, plenty bright and the high contrast screen will help you with the blacks!



I've read other folks say this as well about the zoom and sharpness...but I'm confused. You say yours is at max. zoom, but then recommend mounting the projector as close as possible...thus having to zoom the lens all the way OUT, right?


I've just finished most of my setup with the 8350. My first home projector/screen combination ever....I'm pretty experienced with projectors in commercial settings though. I built a shelf for the projector that blends in well with the room, and mounted it above a window at about 8' off the ground. It's throw is about 10' and is zoomed out all the way. I purchased a 106" Dalite Model B screen, and my maximum image size is about 104"! So close!


Pretty happy with the projector though, no color issues so far, and it is very quiet. Curious what color settings combinations other folks have been using?


I have a Vikuti DVD meant for setting up LCD television pictures...would that work well for setting the color on this LCD projector?


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19655459
> 
> 
> I read somewhere that this lenses are sharpest at maximum zoom....not really sure.
> 
> 
> Mine is at max zoom and its very sharp. I'm certainly satisfied.
> 
> 
> Since the projector is very bright even on eco mode, I would recommend getting the High Contrast screen and mounting the projector as close as possible. This is way you could use the pj in eco mode where its completely silent, plenty bright and the high contrast screen will help you with the blacks!



A ND2 filter will also help. I have my Infocus IN72 at 4000+ hrs and using ND2 and is still plenty bright as my image is only 65". With the 8350 which I just ordered I should get some 90" image and I would still have to use ND2. I am even contemplating using ND4 filter. I wish it had manual iris. Will see if this does not work out I will get the SONY VPL-HW15. Soon the sony PJ may be out of stock at AVS.


----------



## redfox102

Well i just checked the tracking number i was given and found this http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/4730/54923448.png







I shouldn't even be here yet because technically I'm not an "owner"







But hopefully i will be in a few hours...


edit: oh and by the way, projector people has been AWESOME!!! I couldn't have made a better choice! I was going to choose visual apex at first but WOW i am so glad i didn't, things couldn't have gone better.


----------



## dvrmstrng

I am a little confused with a few of the above posts: Would one be better off putting the projector in economy mode and then often using dynamic picture mode, or would it be better to put the projector in normal mode and use a picture mode such as cinema most often?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19656918
> 
> 
> I am a little confused with a few of the above posts: Would one be better off putting the projector in economy mode and then often using dynamic picture mode, or would it be better to put the projector in normal mode and use a picture mode such as cinema most often?



You are talking about two different settings.


1. Bulb output: Economy or Normal.

In ECO mode, the light output is less so your picture will be a litter dimmer but can be compensated with some tweaking of the picture settings(Contrast/Brightness).


2. Picture settings: Dynamic, Cinema, etc

These are presets that have specific picture settings. These can be tweaked than saved.


It's all a matter of preference on which bulb mode and picture mode you wish to use. ECO bulb mode is made to allow longer bulb life.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19654902
> 
> 
> I took a sheet of paper and held it in front of the projector the image was then projected on the paper 11 feet from the tree and the problem still existed? Believe me I was really hoping it was the tree! Are other people having this same problem with the blue or just the red?
> 
> 
> DGF I understand how the lens shift works but it still looks like it's pointing inward, those pics I took where with the lens centered ie, no shift. But picture is square on screen now to just get rid of that haze!



The paper method is a good way to check for any haze issues in the lower right or upper left corners.


1. Project a picture that has black bars on top and bottom.

2. Hold a piece of 11x8 paper in front of the projector about 1-2 feet and move it around to the lower right/upper left corners and look for any haze issues. Using this method allows you to see the issue easily since it's more concentrated before it's degraded/spread out on the screen.


I have 65 hours on my bulb and the red haze is the same as it was when the projector was new.


----------



## nineset

What would cause softer focus in the bottom corners of the pattern display from the projector? The midline is very sharp but the bottom corners are kind of a soft focus...


Second question:

Anybody have some prefered settings for games. I turned off noise reduction and use the living room mode because I kind of like the super white of the 9300 color temp, but at the same time I feel like it burns the retinas a little bit. haha.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbrentd* /forum/post/19653474
> 
> 
> I have the Denon 2310...it also has only one HDMI out. I bought this splitter from monoprice. It performed well in a simple test. I plan on using my Harmony to tell which device to turn on based on the activity.



Which DVR/STB do you have for regular TV?


I've heard that the FiOS Motorola Devices can only have 2 devices in the HDMI chain. -They are supposed to have a firmware update that will expand it to more, but who knows when that will roll out.


----------



## jbrentd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19657886
> 
> 
> Which DVR/STB do you have for regular TV?
> 
> 
> I've heard that the FiOS Motorola Devices can only have 2 devices in the HDMI chain. -They are supposed to have a firmware update that will expand it to more, but who knows when that will roll out.



I have the DirecTV H24.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19657302
> 
> 
> You are talking about two different settings.
> 
> 
> 1. Bulb output: Economy or Normal.
> 
> In ECO mode, the light output is less so your picture will be a litter dimmer but can be compensated with some tweaking of the picture settings(Contrast/Brightness).
> 
> 
> 2. Picture settings: Dynamic, Cinema, etc
> 
> These are presets that have specific picture settings. These can be tweaked than saved.
> 
> 
> It's all a matter of preference on which bulb mode and picture mode you wish to use. ECO bulb mode is made to allow longer bulb life.





I understand. So that means you would have longer bulb life using economy mode in dynamic (the brightest) than using the regular mode and cinema or living room (not the brightest).


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19655819
> 
> 
> I've read other folks say this as well about the zoom and sharpness...but I'm confused. You say yours is at max. zoom, but then recommend mounting the projector as close as possible...thus having to zoom the lens all the way OUT, right?
> 
> 
> I've just finished most of my setup with the 8350. My first home projector/screen combination ever....I'm pretty experienced with projectors in commercial settings though. I built a shelf for the projector that blends in well with the room, and mounted it above a window at about 8' off the ground. It's throw is about 10' and is zoomed out all the way. I purchased a 106" Dalite Model B screen, and my maximum image size is about 104"! So close!
> 
> 
> Pretty happy with the projector though, no color issues so far, and it is very quiet. Curious what color settings combinations other folks have been using?
> 
> 
> I have a Vikuti DVD meant for setting up LCD television pictures...would that work well for setting the color on this LCD projector?



When I say max zoom I meant zooming IN for max size.


U got 104 out of 106. I have about 82 from about an 8ft throw. The pj is above me so from my viewing distance is plenty big.


Can you also confirm to others about sharpness with max zoom? How do u like the brightness?


----------



## cmacclel

If anyone is wondering like I did what the panels look like that are not lined up pixel for pixel can see this in the picture I took of the 2nd Epson replacement projector they sent. The Original projector I purchased from BB had perfectly aligned panels.....this one does not.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19658741
> 
> 
> If anyone is wondering like I did what the panels look like that are not lined up pixel for pixel can see this in the picture I took of the 2nd Epson replacement projector they sent. The Original projector I purchased from BB had perfectly aligned panels.....this one does not.



So if we see red and green in the testing image from the projector its advised to get a replacement?


----------



## DavefromMaine

Just curious as to what color settings you guys are using when watching Blu Rays Dynamic,Living Room or other. I just got my 8350 and I am trying to get the best picture possible.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DavefromMaine* /forum/post/19659888
> 
> 
> Just curious as to what color settings you guys are using when watching Blu Rays Dynamic,Living Room or other. I just got my 8350 and I am trying to get the best picture possible.



Is that a shoppingdeals screen?


I use Cinema in a light controlled room using the calibration settings below except I left Gamma at default.

I also enabled Super White.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


.


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19658448
> 
> 
> When I say max zoom I meant zooming IN for max size.
> 
> 
> U got 104 out of 106. I have about 82 from about an 8ft throw. The pj is above me so from my viewing distance is plenty big.
> 
> 
> Can you also confirm to others about sharpness with max zoom? How do u like the brightness?




Setting the lens zoom for max. size would mean it is zoomed all the way OUT.

Think about zooming in if you are shooting a long distance and the image is too large...then you zoom the lens in to fit whatever size you are trying to fill.


Anyway, I think the brightness of the projector is plenty, although like I said before I am only throwing about 10'. No complaints about the sharpness either, very happy with everything.

Still waiting to pick up a Blu-ray player that will stream Netflix HD, but playing video from my Macbook Pro looks awesome.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng*  /forum/post/19659514
> 
> 
> So if we see red and green in the testing image from the projector its advised to get a replacement?



Uh, you can replace your $1k projector forever till there is a new model out, and eventually you might get one that is nearly perfect with a magnifying glass next to the screen. Good luck. I'm going to go watch a movie.


John F


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19662149
> 
> 
> Uh, you can replace your $1k projector forever till there is a new model out, and eventually you might get one that is nearly perfect with a magnifying glass next to the screen. Good luck. I'm going to go watch a movie.
> 
> 
> John F



Amen!!


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DavefromMaine* /forum/post/19659888
> 
> 
> Just curious as to what color settings you guys are using when watching Blu Rays Dynamic,Living Room or other. I just got my 8350 and I am trying to get the best picture possible.



There are a lot of variables involved like screen, ambient light, source, etc. A good place to start with a BlueRay player is 'Cinema' color mode, eco bulb setting, in a fairly dark room. My Apple TV provides a bit more saturated look, so I prefer the x.v. color with it. You have many enjoyable hours of playing to get it to look best to your eyes. I wouldn't get serious about any calibration until you have a 100 hours or so on the bulb.


John F


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19658741
> 
> 
> If anyone is wondering like I did what the panels look like that are not lined up pixel for pixel can see this in the picture I took of the 2nd Epson replacement projector they sent. The Original projector I purchased from BB had perfectly aligned panels.....this one does not.



I know, or at least hope, you posted this pic to show what the average projector will look like with a macro photo an inch from the screen. Mine is exactly like this, only I didn't know until just now when I put on my strongest reading glasses and got right next to the screen.


You may have gotten extremely lucky with your first one but I'd be willing to bet that the photo you posted is in the average, acceptable category.


Ok, let the stampede begin to return all these entry-level PJ's for being one pixel off in convergence which requires a test pattern to discern.


Now I really AM off to watch Hurt Locker in BlueRay which just came today, on my 8350 that is 2 pixels off in convergence like yours. The picture is fantastic. Don't make much noise boxing up your PJ, I don't want to be disturbed.


John F


----------



## cmacclel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19662247
> 
> 
> I know, or at least hope, you posted this pic to show what the average projector will look like with a macro photo an inch from the screen. Mine is exactly like this, only I didn't know until just now when I put on my strongest reading glasses and got right next to the screen.
> 
> 
> You may have gotten extremely lucky with your first one but I'd be willing to bet that the photo you posted is in the average, acceptable category.
> 
> 
> Ok, let the stampede begin to return all these entry-level PJ's for being one pixel off in convergence which requires a test pattern to discern.
> 
> 
> Now I really AM off to watch Hurt Locker in BlueRay which just came today, on my 8350 that is 2 pixels off in convergence like yours. The picture is fantastic. Don't make much noise boxing up your PJ, I don't want to be disturbed.
> 
> 
> John F



If you actually read the thead from only a page or so back you would see why I posted what I did. Someone commented how there convergence was 3 pixels off and I asked how did they tested their projector to find this out. I guess from what I read within one pixel shift is perfectly acceptable, so the image I posted was an in *spec* projector.


Mac


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19662149
> 
> 
> Uh, you can replace your $1k projector forever till there is a new model out, and eventually you might get one that is nearly perfect with a magnifying glass next to the screen. Good luck. I'm going to go watch a movie.
> 
> 
> John F



No need for sarcasm







, this is my first new projector and it was more of a question than a suggestion. Just want to get it right.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19661839
> 
> 
> Setting the lens zoom for max. size would mean it is zoomed all the way OUT.
> 
> Think about zooming in if you are shooting a long distance and the image is too large...then you zoom the lens in to fit whatever size you are trying to fill.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I think the brightness of the projector is plenty, although like I said before I am only throwing about 10'. No complaints about the sharpness either, very happy with everything.
> 
> Still waiting to pick up a Blu-ray player that will stream Netflix HD, but playing video from my Macbook Pro looks awesome.



The best Blu-ray player is the PS3. For its price nothing can match it. You would have to spend some more to have better quality player and it does 3D movies, Netflix, VUDU and Sony has its own video rental service. There is a lot of stuff you can do with the PS3 besides gaming......You can get it rather cheap now compared to other comparable blu-ray players. You can also spend less too for another player, just my suggestion


----------



## jpkl

I'm torn between AE4000 and 8350.

Both set end up almost same price...As 8350 not available in Asia..I have to import, and AE4000 I can get it at singapore for about USD2.4k(yea a bit high).

and 8350 1.1k at projectorpeople , ship to forwarder, forwarder ship to me

may have to pay some tax... estimate will end up around USD1.6k


----------



## redfox102

Well i got the projector set up, surprisingly i was able to clean out the room and wire everything in one day, but i think I've decided to just paint my own screen, but i honestly have no idea how to go about choosing a paint mix, this is my first projector after all... I want a good blend of contrast and brightness (leaning more towards brightness), can anyone suggest a good mix of paint? And can anyone suggest the best way to even the screen out? What would be the best thing to use to paint the screen? Maybe someone can point me to the right thread for a beginner... thanks.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19663202
> 
> 
> Well i got the projector set up, surprisingly i was able to clean out the room and wire everything in one day, but i think I've decided to just paint my own screen, but i honestly have no idea how to go about choosing a paint mix, this is my first projector after all... I want a good blend of contrast and brightness (leaning more towards brightness), can anyone suggest a good mix of paint? And can anyone suggest the best way to even the screen out? What would be the best thing to use to paint the screen? Maybe someone can point me to the right thread for a beginner... thanks.




If you don't have much ambient light, go for more contrast with your screen. This projector is plenty bright if you can control lighting at all. I have a pretty high level of ambient light and this thing is still brighter than bright.


----------



## expertmech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19663202
> 
> 
> Well i got the projector set up, surprisingly i was able to clean out the room and wire everything in one day, but i think I've decided to just paint my own screen, but i honestly have no idea how to go about choosing a paint mix, this is my first projector after all... I want a good blend of contrast and brightness (leaning more towards brightness), can anyone suggest a good mix of paint? And can anyone suggest the best way to even the screen out? What would be the best thing to use to paint the screen? Maybe someone can point me to the right thread for a beginner... thanks.





Here's MY THREAD http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291131 



I'm spraying the RS-Maxmudd this weekend.....



A few of us are at the same stage. Read up in the DIY section!!


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmacclel* /forum/post/19662732
> 
> 
> If you actually read the thead from only a page or so back you would see why I posted what I did. Someone commented how there convergence was 3 pixels off and I asked how did they tested their projector to find this out. I guess from what I read within one pixel shift is perfectly acceptable, so the image I posted was an in *spec* projector.
> 
> 
> Mac



Yep, I see that now. Sorry.


Maybe I was expecting too much, but I'd only give 'Hurt Locker' 7 of 10. Sure looked good though.


John F


----------



## GeckoFiend

Is SUPER STOKED!!! As far as I'm concerned, my CC has been charged and it's in the mail, so I own it










Now, I need to find a good AVR or HTIB with both component in(from an ATONHDR44) and component output(house was pre-wired with component from below the screen to the projector). Suggestions welcome-$500 or so is the budget for the sound setup.


----------



## mike 01hawk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GeckoFiend* 
Now, I need to find a good AVR or HTIB with both component in and component output
HTIB suggestion, ONKYO HT-S5300:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882120168 


Only has 2 component in though. However 4 HDMI. Get with the times man


----------



## GeckoFiend

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mike 01hawk* 
HTIB suggestion, ONKYO HT-S5300:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882120168 


Only has 2 component in though. However 4 HDMI. Get with the times man








Component in will be via cat5 from the 4x4 matrix switcher. All cable boxes and media PC will be in the basement. Besides a blu-ray player(which would probably use hdmi), I don't see myself needing more than two component inputs.


The component cables are already run through the attic to the projector location, and I don't feel like buying a 25' HDMI or going back in the attic.


*******************edit********** i guess i will do an hdmi to the projector, but at a later date. looking at other threads, it seems that hdmi is the way to go for 1080p



Any 5.1 suggestions?


----------



## mike 01hawk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GeckoFiend* 
Any 5.1 suggestions?
Yeah, a 7.1 w/ 2 speakers unplugged.










5.1 is going the way of the dodo, which is a real shame.


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GeckoFiend* /forum/post/19664508
> 
> 
> Is SUPER STOKED!!! As far as I'm concerned, my CC has been charged and it's in the mail, so I own it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I need to find a good AVR or HTIB with both component in(from an ATONHDR44) and component output(house was pre-wired with component from below the screen to the projector). Suggestions welcome-$500 or so is the budget for the sound setup.



Get this one: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S9300...2625401&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S9300...2625401&sr=8-1 


Review of it here


----------



## fraisa

Okay did some testing on a 8350 unit tonight on a Da Lite Pull Down 92 inch screen..


If you use this unit on that type of screen you are not getting the best out of this unit

and you are sacrificing the units Performance


Will post some pics tomorrow of my testing...

ANd no i did not take any screen shots of the 8350 on a high end screen....

And have no intentions on it either...


If you are on a budget and a high end screen is not an option at this time

Mississipi Mans Paint solution is a much better alternative than a Da Lite Pull Down Screen or a Accu Fixed Screen ....


Will post the screen shots later.....


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buster6070* 
Yea, but for his setup he needs two outs and those start at 50 bucks. For mine I wanted HDMI 1.3 and that was 60. But price difference wasn't as much as I thought. My splitter was 50 with 1.3 HDMI, so only ten bucks.
Not really. I use the 4x2 Monoprice HDMI splitter in one system and I use this cheap splitter in my other system. http://www.amazon.com/2-Port-2-out-C...641576&sr=8-14 Even with the cheap HDMI splitter I can run either or both displays (TV and projector). I can switch back and forth with out any problems.


----------



## Jamosb78

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fraisa* 
Okay did some testing on a 8350 unit tonight on a Da Lite Pull Down 92 inch screen..


If you use this unit on that type of screen you are not getting the best out of this unit

and you are sacrificing the units Performance


Will post some pics tomorrow of my testing...

ANd no i did not take any screen shots of the 8350 on a high end screen....

And have no intentions on it either...


If you are on a budget and a high end screen is not an option at this time

Mississipi Mans Paint solution is a much better alternative than a Da Lite Pull Down Screen or a Accu Fixed Screen ....


Will post the screen shots later.....


What kind of tests did you do?

Which Dalite screen did you use for the testing? They have a wide variety of surfaces...


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* 
What kind of tests did you do?

Which Dalite screen did you use for the testing? They have a wide variety of surfaces...
Took some screen shots in a Low Light Condition and Higher light condition

Wanted to see for black Levels , screen colour distortion from outside area non direct light...


It was just a Pull Down Matte White Screen 92inch...

Nothing Fancy

Budget Screen


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19667217
> 
> 
> Okay did some testing on a 8350 unit tonight on a Da Lite Pull Down 92 inch screen..
> 
> 
> If you use this unit on that type of screen you are not getting the best out of this unit
> 
> and you are sacrificing the units Performance
> 
> 
> Will post some pics tomorrow of my testing...
> 
> ANd no i did not take any screen shots of the 8350 on a high end screen....
> 
> And have no intentions on it either...
> 
> 
> If you are on a budget and a high end screen is not an option at this time
> 
> Mississipi Mans Paint solution is a much better alternative than a Da Lite Pull Down Screen or a Accu Fixed Screen ....
> 
> 
> Will post the screen shots later.....



If all you have seen is the very cheapest of Da Lite's manual pull down screen materials, you are doing an injustice by not qualifying your original post. They also have a high contrast matte white and the 2.4 gain high power; there is another material but the sample caused vertical banding on this PJ. The High Power has been given some very high praise. MM's paint solutions have been given and deserve, from what I can tell, high praise but not everyone has a situation where a fixed screen or large case (lengthwise) pull down will work.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19668687
> 
> 
> If all you have seen is the very cheapest of Da Lite's manual pull down screen materials, you are doing an injustice by not qualifying your original post. They also have a high contrast matte white and the 2.4 gain high power; there is another material but the sample caused vertical banding on this PJ. The High Power has been given some very high praise. MM's paint solutions have been given and deserve, from what I can tell, high praise but not everyone has a situation where a fixed screen or large case (lengthwise) pull down will work.



As for Da Lites Screens if it was me Why spend 1400 on a Da Lite Screen when i can go with a Paint Based MM style and then save that money and get a better Screen...

I have seen and tested the Higher end dalites and there okay but my Black Diamond or Stewart will blow it out of the water.....


What i wanted to accomplish was show the senerio of a budget set up...

Someone who has a 1600-2000 budget and they go into there ABC Warehouse and get a screen and projector...


There are alot of people that I meet every day that get the idea of 2 piece projection and then will go to there local A/V Store and will get a 8350 and budget screen.

Alot of these BB or ABC stores give no training what so ever to there staff regarding screens and projectors..

and if you ever ask in depth questions like Ansi Lumens or Screen gain they give a response that makes them look like a total tool..


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19668859
> 
> 
> As for Da Lites Screens if it was me Why spend 1400 on a Da Lite Screen when i can go with a Paint Based MM style and then save that money and get a better Screen...
> 
> I have seen and tested the Higher end dalites and there okay but my Black Diamond or Stewart will blow it out of the water.....
> 
> 
> What i wanted to accomplish was show the senerio of a budget set up...
> 
> Someone who has a 1600-2000 budget and they go into there ABC Warehouse and get a screen and projector...
> 
> 
> There are alot of people that I meet every day that get the idea of 2 piece projection and then will go to there local A/V Store and will get a 8350 and budget screen.
> 
> Alot of these BB or ABC stores give no training what so ever to there staff regarding screens and projectors..
> 
> and if you ever ask in depth questions like Ansi Lumens or Screen gain they give a response that makes them look like a total tool..



I don't know where you got that figure from. A pull down (which you specifically stated in your post) da lite screen model b 92" high power with 18" of black drop at the top will only set you back about $270 with shipping (depends on where you live); you can actually find it a bit cheaper but I chose to support AVS and an impeccable record of customer service. Yes, painting would be cheaper but only in a configuration that allows a fixed screen.


My point still stands. Generalized negative posts don't contribute to the greater good.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19669094
> 
> 
> I don't know where you got that figure from. A pull down (which you specifically stated in your post) da lite screen model b 92" high power with 18" of black drop at the top will only set you back about $270 with shipping (depends on where you live); you can actually find it a bit cheaper but I chose to support AVS and an impeccable record of customer service. Yes, painting would be cheaper but only in a configuration that allows a fixed screen.
> 
> 
> My point still stands. Generalized negative posts don't contribute to the greater good.



Ya I was refering to the higher end Da Lites as a waste...


Why buy a High end Da Lite screen when you could get a Real Screen like a Stewart or a SI Black Diamond....lol


Again i wanted to show what the above scenerio will produce...

the Epson 8350 on a Da Lite 270 $ screen....

Thats my point ....


----------



## detroit1

you can buy screens from grand view that are 1/3 the price of dalite,draper and much cheaper than stewart that are very comparable; many people in canada use those with nice projectors;

no screen is worth big money; if you look closely, the material that the screen is made out of is NOT expensive; that's why grand view still profits from selling screens for $400


----------



## fraisa

Okay here is the pics i have promised..

Epson 8350 Out to the box Untouched..

Da-Lite Matte White budget Screen....

SOny BLuRay I Am Legand


Okay as you look at these pics and some may have experianced this that you get narrow Edges where the top goes in and the bottom goes out..

Thats because the Projector is not level...

YOur projector needs to be totally Level.. actually when i set up a unit i use two small levels to help level in a unit...(All you Mega brains already now that, just putting it in there for the newbies that dont have your smarts and my Great looks...lol)


Second the discolourization on the bottom is from ambient light reflecting into the area not directly above but its around...thats what causes the distortion across the bottom from left to Right....


Again the purpose of these pics is to show a Newbie set up by some one who just got there equipment and is just setting it up for the first time...

























Time of Movie is 18:52


Now What i would like people to do is come up with suggestions on how to get it better....

The Time of Movie is 18:52 ,

Would even like some people if they have this film to post some screen shots of the above scene to show how Awesome they have dialed there units in...


My Goal in this is to help some people out who may have a similar situation,

And

If now one does , damn it at least i tried


----------



## MississippiMan

Indeed. And admirably so.


Personally, I have taken several basic Dalite Matte White Elect Screens in sizes ranging from 106" to 135" diagonal and sprayed on Silver Fire to excellent results. The SF application has never been soley delegated to the "Fixed Screen Genre", it's just so very much more common for people to not need to consider "retractability" if the application is a dedicated Theater, or a placement over a Fireplace in a Family room setting.


Due to the effective ambient light performance of SF, a good many people opt out of direct view monitors @ 55-60" sizes for $2-3K and instead go for 72"-84" SF Fixed Screens. The advent of PJ's of the 8350's ilk, in combination with a darker SF application allows for some excellent results that max out at under $1400.00 for a 84" HD Screen, including the Projector. .


Also to be considered is how much...or how little certain performance restrictions and/or limitations come into play. PJ placement can serious affect a HP screen for the better or worse. Viewing cone requirements can be modest and easily met, or be seriously compromised.


It has always been my thinking that a screen should cover as many needs as possible, and while the old adage, "No Screen can service every application" still holds a great deal of weight, there are a very few that can come damnable close. Especially with today's latest crop of excellent high contrast / high lumen 1080p projectors.


I love the Epson 8350.....and prior to it's arrival, the LG CF181D was the PJ of choice to consider for excessive ambient light situations. Both utilize the attributes of any ambient light screen application to it's fullest extent.


Fixed Screen DIY apps require a work ethic and involvement, and desire for extreme savings. Next comes Mfg or Retractable Budget Screens that receive DIY coatings (incl BOC versions). Beyond that, and quite frankly, Mfg Screens such as the Black Diamond I-II, the older Sony Chroma Vu and it's offspring, the Clear View, all can excel if correctly matched to room conditions and PJ performance.


At that conjecture, it becomes a personal choice based on needs as relates to available budget.


For those with no desire or intention to consider DIY, those options will provide the choices needed to fit most circumstances.


But what does the future hold? All ya all just wait to see what's just around the corner as far as DIY Passive 3D. Just consider a 100" to 140" to 200" "Passive Silver 3D Screen" w/3-4.0 gain but no, hot spotting and excellent 2D ability, and a 140 degree viewing angle (70 degrees off-axis). It's already in existence, and about to be unveiled, but that's all I'm gonna tease ya with at present.


.....so don't beg. You'll have to catch it over in the DIY Screen Forum anyway.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *expertmech* /forum/post/19663443
> 
> 
> Here's MY THREAD http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291131
> 
> 
> 
> I'm spraying the RS-Maxmudd this weekend.....
> 
> 
> 
> A few of us are at the same stage. Read up in the DIY section!!




I am done!!! Mississippi Man, I cannot thank you enough. If you were local I'd have to take you out for a drink for putting up with my shinanigans. I sprayed my screen yesterday. I did the RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light). The screen is 120" diagonal and the picture is literally stunning. It took me a while to spray, I was indoors and really worried about runs. I did about 6 coats, all pretty light and ended up using just about all of the paint. The wagner double duty for $54.99 worked flawless with half the water, just as MM suggested.


I finally got to firing up the PJ on the new screen and WOW, it is jaw dropping. As everyone says, dynamic mode in the pitch black is way too bright, cinema works better. Right now I am using normal mode for the lamp and the iris set on fast. What are other peoples thoughts on the lamp setting or the iris?


I haven't messed with any of the color settings per the projectorcentral calibration because right now out of the box it looks too good. Anything else I should mess with right now as im just setting her up?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19670692
> 
> 
> I am done!!! Mississippi Man, I cannot thank you enough. If you were local I'd have to take you out for a drink for putting up with my shinanigans. I sprayed my screen yesterday. I did the RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light). The screen is 120" diagonal and the picture is literally stunning. It took me a while to spray, I was indoors and really worried about runs. I did about 6 coats, all pretty light and ended up using just about all of the paint. The wagner double duty for $54.99 worked flawless with half the water, just as MM suggested.
> 
> 
> I finally got to firing up the PJ on the new screen and WOW, it is jaw dropping. As everyone says, dynamic mode in the pitch black is way too bright, cinema works better. Right now I am using normal mode for the lamp and the iris set on fast. What are other peoples thoughts on the lamp setting or the iris?
> 
> 
> I haven't messed with any of the color settings per the projectorcentral calibration because right now out of the box it looks too good. Anything else I should mess with right now as im just setting her up?



That sounds Awesome ,

Curious how you spray your screen?

WOuld love to see some Screen shots....


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19670846
> 
> 
> That sounds Awesome ,
> 
> Curious how you spray your screen?
> 
> WOuld love to see some Screen shots....



got a 107"x60" piece of Sintra (cut from a 5'x10' sheet)

two super light coats of the RS mudd

about 4/5 more coats on top

all from a Wagner double duty sprayer I got from home depot


I will take some pictures tomorrow with a decent camera and upload them.


----------



## Vinho8

Hi guys, just installed my epson 8350 from pp yesterday. Was using my panny ax200 previously for 1 n half yr. Surprisingly e upgrade from 720 to 1080p wasn't that much of a difference. I do see more details n better blacks.I'm currently projecting on a 80 inch fixed screen.


Played iron man n a few matches of winning 11 on my ps3 today. Image seems to be a bit blur when there is fast movement. I didn't have this problem when I played games on my panny 200 in game mode.


Any advice or tips on this ? Am I missing something here ? I tried turning off the auto iris n it seems better. Help needed pls. Thanks in advice.


----------



## chicagovet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tremor13* /forum/post/19474663
> 
> 
> I'm replacing a 4 year old InFocus IN72.--Tremor13



Same here, and I ordered the 8350 yesterday. What did you end up doing? What's become of your old IN72? Do you know if there's much of a market for pre-owned projectors and, if so, what folks might be willing to pay (especially if the bulb is nearing the end of its life, like mine is). Thanks.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chicagovet* /forum/post/19672781
> 
> 
> Same here, and I ordered the 8350 yesterday. What did you end up doing? What's become of your old IN72? Do you know if there's much of a market for pre-owned projectors and, if so, what folks might be willing to pay (especially if the bulb is nearing the end of its life, like mine is). Thanks.



I remember selling my IN72 back in college (my sophmore year, around 4 years ago) and I sold it to a friend for about $300. He now has it in his basement for a very budget setup for hockey games/ video games. You can always just check ebay/craigslist to see what other people may be getting rid of them for.


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19672972
> 
> 
> I remember selling my IN72 back in college (my sophmore year, around 4 years ago) and I sold it to a friend for about $300. He now has it in his basement for a very budget setup for hockey games/ video games. You can always just check ebay/craigslist to see what other people may be getting rid of them for.



I remember college back in '72 also....... 1972! Went to school with Bob Zemeckis, and the projector we used back then was an actual film projector that we uh, borrowed, from the cinematography club to show on the cafeteria wall which we uh, also borrowed at 2:00 A.M. for the kids on our floor to watch movies on whose reels we literally took out of the can to use. All very entertaining. Now for a little over a thousand bucks we can watch the 8350 project images in our homes that were unimaginable back in those days........... amazing!


----------



## meepha12

Just got my Epson 8350 today! Im coming from a Optoma Hd20 and am super stoked to set this thing up, compared to my old projector its huge. I did want to let everyone in on something though, for those that bought their Optoma Projector from Best Buy if its under a year old you can return it for a full refund =].Thats what I did because mine was seeming to get louder, so i took it in to be serviced and their computer told them to exchange it. Just an FYI for those wanting this.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *par4* /forum/post/19674000
> 
> 
> I remember college back in '72 also....... 1972! Went to school with Bob Zemeckis, and the projector we used back then was an actual film projector that we uh, borrowed, from the cinematography club to show on the cafeteria wall which we uh, also borrowed at 2:00 A.M. for the kids on our floor to watch movies on whose reels we literally took out of the can to use. All very entertaining. Now for a little over a thousand bucks we can watch the 8350 project images in our homes that were unimaginable back in those days........... amazing!



Rocking the projector setup 14 years before I was born, I like it!


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19674798
> 
> 
> Rocking the projector setup 14 years before I was born, I like it!



Yep. When I was old school, it WAS old school, you young whippersnapper. By golly!


----------



## streaker76

good day,


Has anyone tried the manual zoom on the projector yet. I'm hearing you can manually adjust the lens to fit a 2.35:1 screen. I'm looking at either the 8350 or the panny. For price differneces of 700 or so, i'm willing to go with the 8350 if it can do the 2.35. I do 99% film watching and no sporting or TV. I would zoom the lens to fit the 2.35 screen and leave it. If there is content that's 16x9 i would get the bars on the sides. Please correct me if I'm wrong? Any input is appreciated. Thanks


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19675569
> 
> 
> good day,
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried the manual zoom on the projector yet. I'm hearing you can manually adjust the lens to fit a 2.35:1 screen. I'm looking at either the 8350 or the panny. For price differneces of 700 or so, i'm willing to go with the 8350 if it can do the 2.35. I do 99% film watching and no sporting or TV. I would zoom the lens to fit the 2.35 screen and leave it. If there is content that's 16x9 i would get the bars on the sides. Please correct me if I'm wrong? Any input is appreciated. Thanks



Its not going to work with this projector...

You need a projector with either an add on Amaphoric lens or a projector with a 2:35 Screen Zoom Mode which this one doenst have its just 16x9 ....


Mits and JVC can Zoom to 2:35 without an add on lens


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19675886
> 
> 
> Its not going to work with this projector...
> 
> You need a projector with either an add on Amaphoric lens or a projector with a 2:35 Screen Zoom Mode which this one doenst have its just 16x9 ....
> 
> 
> Mits and JVC can Zoom to 2:35 without an add on lens



What??? You can do this with any projector that can zoom out large enough. Poor mans CIH is done this way. Buy a 2.35 screen in the size that you want. You use the center of the screen (full height) for 16:9 (1.85) content. When watching 2.35 content, you zoom out the image so that the gray bars no longer hit the screen and you are then projecting an image on the full screen.


Added

The advantage of the Panasonic PT-AE4000 is the power zoom, power lens shift with memory.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19676142
> 
> 
> What??? You can do this with any projector that can zoom out large enough. Poor mans CIH is done this way. Buy a 2.35 screen in the size that you want. You use the center of the screen (full height) for 16:9 (1.85) content. When watching 2.35 content, you zoom out the image so that the gray bars no longer hit the screen and you are then projecting an image on the full screen.
> 
> 
> Added
> 
> The advantage of the Panasonic PT-AE4000 is the power zoom, power lens shift with memory.



It wont be right on the Epson 8350 you need an Add on lens ...

IE the Mits 6800 has a 2:35 Screen mode so you can zoom to that type of screen

epson 8350 thru to the 9700 doesnt ,

you can only do it thru an add on lens


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19676178
> 
> 
> It wont be right on the Epson 8350 you need an Add on lens ...
> 
> IE the Mits 6800 has a 2:35 Screen mode so you can zoom to that type of screen
> 
> epson 8350 thru to the 9700 doesnt ,
> 
> you can only do it thru an add on lens



When you project a 2.35 movie onto your 16:9 screen you get a gray bars top and bottom of the screen. Now if you manually adjust the zoom to enlarge the image, you can make the gray bars drop off the top and bottom of the screen as long as the projector has enough zoom. That is what you do, only using a 2.35 screen. When projecting a 16:9 image onto the 2.35 screen you will not project any image on each end of the 2.35 screen. When you run a 2.35 movie onto this screen you enlarge the screen until the image hits the edges on each side. When you do this the gray bars will no longer be hitting on the screen. This works with any 16:9 projector that has enough zoom.


Added

The Mits 2.35 screen mode means that you do not have to have a sled to move the Anamorphic lens in front of the projector for 2.35 content. You can leave the Anamorphic lens in place all the time.


----------



## mjg100

Been thinking about this projector, but have some concerns. Biggest is probably the lamp issues. Also will I be satisfied going from a well built 720P DC3 (Planar PD7130) projector to a low end LCD 1080P projector like the 8350. I mainly watch movies in a light controlled (black bat cave) dedicated room, but I have reworked the room so that Kintect can be used in it. I also still watch a lot of DVD's. How does the 8350 do with 480P content? Anybody compared these two? Also considering the Mits HC4000.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19676244
> 
> 
> When you project a 2.35 movie onto your 16:9 screen you get a gray bars top and bottom of the screen. Now if you manually adjust the zoom to enlarge the image, you can make the gray bars drop off the top and bottom of the screen as long as the projector has enough zoom. That is what you do, only using a 2.35 screen. When projecting a 16:9 image onto the 2.35 screen you will not project any image on each end of the 2.35 screen. When you run a 2.35 movie onto this screen you enlarge the screen until the image hits the edges on each side. When you do this the gray bars will no longer be hitting on the screen. This works with any 16:9 projector that has enough zoom.
> 
> 
> Added
> 
> The Mits 2.35 screen mode means that you do not have to have a sled to move the Anamorphic lens in front of the projector for 2.35 content. You can leave the Anamorphic lens in place all the time.



With regards to the mits in the 2.35 mode,

you dont get any black bars when in that mode it just fills the screen...


and as per the black bars and zooming a 16.9 projector out for a 2.35 image,

what do you do with the black bars would you not have those black bars going outside of the screen and onto the wall.....


I for one am a big fan of the Anamorphic Add on Lens...

It gives the proper Image by far ,

My Opinion...


----------



## PeterF

I watch DVDs and they remind me of the look of 16mm. They still look good to me.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19676333
> 
> 
> With regards to the mits in the 2.35 mode,
> 
> you dont get any black bars when in that mode it just fills the screen...
> 
> 
> and as per the black bars and zooming a 16.9 projector out for a 2.35 image,
> 
> what do you do with the black bars would you not have those black bars going outside of the screen and onto the wall.....
> 
> 
> I for one am a big fan of the Anamorphic Add on Lens...
> 
> It gives the proper Image by far ,
> 
> My Opinion...



Here are some quotes from Projector Central's review of the 6800:

*"Powered zoom, focus, and lens shift. This is an important feature if you want to use the zoom capability to accommodate a 2.40 format widescreen installation. Simply zoom to a wider angle setting to fill the 2.40 screen when you are viewing a movie in that format, and zoom forward to view standard 16:9 material in the center of that screen. The advantage is that you avoid the cost and bother of an anamorphic lens, and you retain the native resolution one-to-one pixel match between the 1080p display and 1080p source material when viewing 2.40 material. Several of the competing 1080p projectors in this price range lack a powered lens, so this may be a key factor in your decision.*


The lens shift range is a total of 2.6 picture heights vertical, and a mere 5% of the picture width in either direction side to side. So there is not much leeway to place the projector off of dead center horizontally.

*Two anamorphic modes. If you wish to set up a 2.40 rig using an A-lens (I am weary of typing out the phrase "anamorphic lens" so henceforth it shall be A-lens, or simply lens if the context is clear), the HC6800 has the capability of switching back and forth between 2.40 format movies or 16:9 material without moving the A-lens. Thus it can be installed permanently without the extra cost and hassle of the motorized track.*"


The first part that I placed in bold is talking about using the power zoom and lens shift for poor mans CIH. The second part in bold is about the 2.35 mode and not having to have a sled for moving the Anamorphic lens back and forth when needed.


As to the gray bars when doing poor mans CIH, yes they are still there. They just are not on the screen. As long as your walls are dark the bars will not be seen. Also part of the bars will be absorbed by the velvet on the screen frame.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterF* /forum/post/19676394
> 
> 
> I watch DVDs and they remind me of the look of 16mm. They still look good to me.



What other projectors have you owned for comparison?


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19676333
> 
> 
> With regards to the mits in the 2.35 mode,
> 
> you dont get any black bars when in that mode it just fills the screen...
> 
> 
> and as per the black bars and zooming a 16.9 projector out for a 2.35 image,
> 
> what do you do with the black bars would you not have those black bars going outside of the screen and onto the wall.....
> 
> 
> I for one am a big fan of the Anamorphic Add on Lens...
> 
> It gives the proper Image by far ,
> 
> My Opinion...





This is what is quoted about the Epson 8350:


Manual zoom/focus. No 1080p projector in this price range has powered zoom/focus, and the 8350 is no exception. Its 2.1x zoom range will let you use it for Cinemascope 2.35:1 screens if that is what you want to do. However, the lack of powered zoom and lens shift means that you need to adjust the lens manually when switching back and forth between 2.35:1 and 16:9 material. For this type of use, you will want to make sure to place the projector in a very easy to reach position, perhaps on a table between the seats, or on a shelf directly behind the seats, so zoom/shift adjustments can be made with relatively little bother.


So this "could" be used on a 2.35 screen without an anamorphic lens. Would I be safe in using a 2.35 screen against a very dark wall. I'm looking at purchasing a fixed screen.


----------



## indybrian

After getting my 8350 up and running I was surprised to see black bars on the top, bottom and both sides when viewing a 2.35 movie. This is my first projector, I guess I did not understand enough about how they work. I need to add curtains to my setup to hide the spill over when I zoom to fill the screen with the 2.35 image. I have a door on one side of the screen that is painted offwhite that the black bar image spills on to.


I am more than pleased with the picture quality.


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *indybrian* /forum/post/19676582
> 
> 
> After getting my 8350 up and running I was surprised to see black bars on the top, bottom and both sides when viewing a 2.35 movie. This is my first projector, I guess I did not understand enough about how they work. I need to add curtains to my setup to hide the spill over when I zoom to fill the screen with the 2.35 image. I have a door on one side of the screen that is painted offwhite that the black bar image spills on to.
> 
> 
> I am more than pleased with the picture quality.



Is the screen fixed at 2.35? I'm looking at doing the same type thing but would like to know how the epson is with this zoom.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19676562
> 
> 
> This is what is quoted about the Epson 8350:
> 
> 
> Manual zoom/focus. No 1080p projector in this price range has powered zoom/focus, and the 8350 is no exception. Its 2.1x zoom range will let you use it for Cinemascope 2.35:1 screens if that is what you want to do. However, the lack of powered zoom and lens shift means that you need to adjust the lens manually when switching back and forth between 2.35:1 and 16:9 material. For this type of use, you will want to make sure to place the projector in a very easy to reach position, perhaps on a table between the seats, or on a shelf directly behind the seats, so zoom/shift adjustments can be made with relatively little bother.
> 
> 
> So this "could" be used on a 2.35 screen without an anamorphic lens. Would I be safe in using a 2.35 screen against a very dark wall. I'm looking at purchasing a fixed screen.



Should be fine. As stated, you will have to adjust the zoom each time you change from 2.35 to 1.85. Will need to make sure that the projector is placed so that it has enough zoom capability, but with the zoom capability of the 8350 that should be easy.


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19676627
> 
> 
> Should be fine. As stated, you will have to adjust the zoom each time you change from 2.35 to 1.85. Will need to make sure that the projector is placed so that it has enough zoom capability, but with the zoom capability of the 8350 that should be easy.




The projector will be approx 12 feet from screen to projector.


----------



## fraisa

As to the gray bars when doing poor mans CIH, yes they are still there. They just are not on the screen. As long as your walls are dark the bars will not be seen. Also part of the bars will be absorbed by the velvet on the screen frame.[/quote]


And thats the difference between the Poor Man and the Rich Man.....lol

No black bars....

Again if i was to do a 2:35 Screen using any of the epson Products...

8350,8700,9700 i would invest in the AM Lens add on

but hey I am a rich man so Of course i would...lol


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19676672
> 
> 
> As to the gray bars when doing poor mans CIH, yes they are still there. They just are not on the screen. As long as your walls are dark the bars will not be seen. Also part of the bars will be absorbed by the velvet on the screen frame.



And thats the difference between the Poor Man and the Rich Man.....lol

No black bars....

Again if i was to do a 2:35 Screen using any of the epson Products...

8350,8700,9700 i would invest in the AM Lens add on

but hey I am a rich man so Of course i would...lol[/quote]


LOL... share some of the wealth with me.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19676694
> 
> 
> And thats the difference between the Poor Man and the Rich Man.....lol
> 
> No black bars....
> 
> Again if i was to do a 2:35 Screen using any of the epson Products...
> 
> 8350,8700,9700 i would invest in the AM Lens add on
> 
> but hey I am a rich man so Of course i would...lol



LOL... share some of the wealth with me.[/quote]


hey hey ,,,

Cheddar Coming ....

At least my Patriots are eating some good cheese...

especially with that last Sac.....

Think the cheese heads need to give there QB some Practice plays....lol


BTW

I got all my Wealth from My Rap Music....ha ha


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19676672
> 
> 
> As to the gray bars when doing poor mans CIH, yes they are still there. They just are not on the screen. As long as your walls are dark the bars will not be seen. Also part of the bars will be absorbed by the velvet on the screen frame.



And thats the difference between the Poor Man and the Rich Man.....lol

No black bars....

Again if i was to do a 2:35 Screen using any of the epson Products...

8350,8700,9700 i would invest in the AM Lens add on
*but hey I am a rich man so Of course i would*...lol[/quote]


Your in the wrong thread and even in the wrong section. Should be in this section: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=24


----------



## nsm

Here is my experience with having a 2:35 size screen with this projector. I have had the 8350 for a couple of weeks now (it is a very nice upgrade from the Panny L300U -- it throws a great image) and I am currently using a 10 foot wide DYI 2.35:1 screen. The projector is on a high shelf mounted from the ceiling, so I have to use a ladder to manually zoom to fully fill the screen. I like the position because it is out of the way from people walking in front, etc. After doing this adjusting a few times I have decided that I would be better off with a larger 16:9 screen, displaying the same size 2:35 image within the 16:9 screen, and building some horizontal masking. This would allow me to initially adjust the image to fit the 16:9 size and not touch the zoom/lens shift after that. If you have easy access to the projector (i.e. a lower shelf or table mount), it is not that bad to adjust (although a bit "clunky" since it is not perfectly smooth to as you make the adjustments). I will probably use some AT material so I can move the speakers behind. I know this isn't ideal (if you are a CIH fan) but based on the zoomed out image, I think that the newer (larger 16:9) image will be o.k., and the current image at the 2:35 size looks good to me. As to the talk about using an A-lens . . . I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the A-lens would not work well with the 8350 because of the lack of the proper V-stretch mode. I think that the zoom method is the only option unless you have some sort of image processor/scaler that can do the V-stretch prior to the horizontal expansion by the A-lens.


----------



## EJ

I would LOVE one of those masking systems to go with my 88" Carada screen.

http://www.carada.com/Masquerade-Masking-System.aspx


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nsm* /forum/post/19676801
> 
> 
> Here is my experience with having a 2:35 size screen with this projector. I have had the 8350 for a couple of weeks now (it is a very nice upgrade from the Panny L300U -- it throws a great image) and I am currently using a 10 foot wide DYI 2.35:1 screen. The projector is on a high shelf mounted from the ceiling, so I have to use a ladder to manually zoom to fully fill the screen. I like the position because it is out of the way from people walking in front, etc. After doing this adjusting a few times I have decided that I would be better off with a larger 16:9 screen, displaying the same size 2:35 image within the 16:9 screen, and building some horizontal masking. This would allow me to initially adjust the image to fit the 16:9 size and not touch the zoom/lens shift after that. If you have easy access to the projector (i.e. a lower shelf or table mount), it is not that bad to adjust (although a bit "clunky" since it is not perfectly smooth to as you make the adjustments). I will probably use some AT material so I can move the speakers behind. I know this isn't ideal (if you are a CIH fan) but based on the zoomed out image, I think that the newer (larger 16:9) image will be o.k., and the current image at the 2:35 size looks good to me. As to the talk about using an A-lens . . . I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the A-lens would not work well with the 8350 because of the lack of the proper V-stretch mode. I think that the zoom method is the only option unless you have some sort of image processor/scaler that can do the V-stretch prior to the horizontal expansion by the A-lens.



I think you are correct with regards to the stretch mode. I currently use an AT screen with a horizontal mechanical masking system. Masking panels move on tracks and are connected together by cables and pulleys so that as you move one panel, the other panel moves the same amount in the opposite direction. System works great, but the panels are solid, not AT. But when in place, they do not cover up any of m speakers. Only time I have gray bars is when watching 4:3 content (mostly SD TV) which I could care less about.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19677240
> 
> 
> I would LOVE one of those masking systems to go with my 88" Carada screen.
> 
> http://www.carada.com/Masquerade-Masking-System.aspx



Or for the cost of the masking system and Carada Screen...

Why not go with a SI Black Diamond Screen and call it a Day.

No Masking Required with BD Screen....

....


----------



## Coolme

I read the reviews about this projector and it seems fine, I'm just curious how the black level compares to other projectors in the same class. Art from projectorreviews seems a bit disappointed by the result on this aspect. Can anyone tell what other projectors, new or older have about the same black level so I can imagine a bit. What about the Mitsu 3800/4000 ... ? Thanks!


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coolme* /forum/post/19677701
> 
> 
> I read the reviews about this projector and it seems fine, I'm just curious how the black level compares to other projectors in the same class. Art from projectorreviews seems a bit disappointed by the result on this aspect. Can anyone tell what other projectors, new or older have about the same black level so I can imagine a bit. What about the Mitsu 3800/4000 ... ? Thanks!



It's not lagging in black levels. The ansi contrast falls a little short of, let's say the Mits hc4000.


----------



## Newk2

MississippiMan,


You have a PM from me.


----------



## hanly2

Does the fan in the 8350 run whenever the main power switch is on like my 4805 did or can I leave that switch on and just use the remote? Without worrying to much about power consumption.


----------



## neworder59

You can manually adjust this projector to fit on a 2.35:1 screen. That is the setup I have. 120" 2.35:1 screen and a 8350 projector.


That will save you $700.....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19675569
> 
> 
> good day,
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried the manual zoom on the projector yet. I'm hearing you can manually adjust the lens to fit a 2.35:1 screen. I'm looking at either the 8350 or the panny. For price differneces of 700 or so, i'm willing to go with the 8350 if it can do the 2.35. I do 99% film watching and no sporting or TV. I would zoom the lens to fit the 2.35 screen and leave it. If there is content that's 16x9 i would get the bars on the sides. Please correct me if I'm wrong? Any input is appreciated. Thanks


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19678660
> 
> 
> Does the fan in the 8350 run whenever the main power switch is on like my 4805 did or can I leave that switch on and just use the remote? Without worrying to much about power consumption.



+1. That was a major annoyance with my 4805.


Also, can someone who has upgaded from a 4805 and has lived with a 8350 for some time give a review or opinion of sorts on if they regret it or not? Blacks better? colors?


I was considering this PJ, but I have only ever had DLP. Not sure what to expect with a LCD


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newk2* /forum/post/19678536
> 
> 
> MississippiMan,
> 
> 
> You have a PM from me.



Isn't in there as of this writing.



I know...I checked all 793 others to make sure.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19678660
> 
> 
> Does the fan in the 8350 run whenever the main power switch is on like my 4805 did or can I leave that switch on and just use the remote? Without worrying to much about power consumption.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19679618
> 
> 
> +1. That was a major annoyance with my 4805.
> 
> 
> Also, can someone who has upgaded from a 4805 and has lived with a 8350 for some time give a review or opinion of sorts on if they regret it or not? Blacks better? colors?
> 
> 
> I was considering this PJ, but I have only ever had DLP. Not sure what to expect with a LCD



When the PJ powers down and the bulb has been cooled down enough, the fan stops.


I've "experienced" 13 Epson 8350s as of today and at no time did it fail to out gun and "out-contrast' any InFocus unit up to the IF 7205-7210 series


Beyond those models I cannot say because I gave up on InFocus while the 7210 was still in production. I liked it/them...it just fell to the side compared to newer PJ @ better price points, that's all. Today, at the cost of a 8350....it's too silly to consider, and that's using a 7210 to weigh in on the matter, not the 4805. (...which was a good PJ as well...one I worked with a bunch after the X1-X2s...) 


The World Turns.........be thankful it doesn't stop.


That would make for a good movie though....


----------



## redfox102

I chose a screen paint, i didn't use any special formula or anything but I'm pretty happy with the boost of contrast I'm getting from flat "seagull gray" which is a fairly light shade of gray like this but a shade lighter. I got the paint from lowes and it's valspar brand. I haven't actually painted the wall yet, i just painted a piece of paper (didn't want to paint the wall and find out there was no difference) and held it up beside my white wall I'm currently projecting on and the difference was VERY noticeable, blacks were actually black and colors were even better than before, i use living room mode on eco with nothing changed so i guess when it gets dark and i put it on theater mode the blacks will be even better.

Tomorrow I'll get some pictures up.


----------



## joshs232

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
+1. That was a major annoyance with my 4805.


Also, can someone who has upgaded from a 4805 and has lived with a 8350 for some time give a review or opinion of sorts on if they regret it or not? Blacks better? colors?


I was considering this PJ, but I have only ever had DLP. Not sure what to expect with a LCD
I went from a 4805 to the 8350. I'd say everything about the 8350 is better than the 4805.


----------



## jacampbell

I know it's not nice to ask price questions but the lowest I can find this pj for in Canada is $1399. Any suggestions where I can find it for cheaper?


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jacampbell*
I know it's not nice to ask price questions but the lowest I can find this pj for in Canada is $1399. Any suggestions where I can find it for cheaper?
Not really. Seems pretty fixed right now everywhere. I just ordered one from hd.ca. The guy Cameron is excellent to deal with. There is no stock right now though. Best you can hope for I think is a free mount and free shipping. My biggest thing was a reliable shop to deal with and hd.ca seems to have a good rep....we shall see.


----------



## Marty D.

Can't help with a Canadian price but I was able to negotiate a price of $1099 from HHGregg. I leveraged their price of $1034 back in November. I was't able to get that price but they came close. Basically, the same price as Visual Apex online factoring in tax.


----------



## Newk2

MississippiMan,


I tried PMing you again. Let me know if it worked.


----------



## redfox102

Upon turning on the lights in my "cave" and inspecting the wall, i found many nail holes from years of use, so i had to buy sheet rock putty, and of course i'll have to wait for it to dry, then sand it, then apply more, then sand it again, then sand the whole viewing area until I'm satisfied... then probably repeat the process a few times... So with all that, plus painting the other walls in the room, and moving all the furniture back in the room, I'm looking at 2-4 days minimum (depending on how lazy i am... lol) until completion. I have a newbie question here, how would i go about calibrating my 8350 to the shade of gray i chose? Do i really need to buy a special dvd or blu-ray? I will if i have to but it just seems like i could find a youtube video or something... Any suggestions?


----------



## Jamosb78

I would recommend using a calibration disk...

A couple years back I got a Vikuiti LCD display calibration disk for free from 3M. Used it on my 32" Samsung with good results, so I figured I'd give it a try with the 8350.

I was surprised that after doing all the tests, I ended up with the brightness turned way down (-15), and the contrast turned way up (12). Pretty amazed with the results though!


Anyone else use a disc like that with the 8350?

Any reason not to use it?


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Newk2* 
MississippiMan,


I tried PMing you again. Let me know if it worked.
Received and replied to.


----------



## SmoothGS

What settings are people using with this pj? Art's settings?

I have mine setup in my light controlled basement onto an Elite 1.1 gain white screen.


Are there some basic settings I should change? Or just dive right in and put in Art's settings?


----------



## djalap

I recently bought this projector, and a 106" screen. I am going to mount the projector on the ceiling (9'), about 13ft away from the screen. I am going to have 2 rows of seating. Is there any calculation to how high i should mount the screen, or is that my preference? Since the first row of seating will be about 12-14 ft away from the screen, is it ok to go a bit higher, so the riser for the second row doesn't need to be nearly as tall.


----------



## russhater

I am sure this has been asked a hundred times already, but I didn't have the patience to looks through 78 pages. I need a cheap ceiling mount for this projector. I know that monoprice doesn't have any that fit, and usually they are my go-to store for things like this. What are you guys using to slap this thing on the ceiling? Thanks!


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Watched Casino Royale on blu-ray last night.

Having the player output at 24hz and the projectors 2:2 pulldown enabled gave the picture that pop that DLP projectors have. Seeing PQ like this makes me glad I upgraded to the 8350 and I still can't get over the price for the PQ you get from this projector.


*117" screen with the projector 15 feet back on the ceiling.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19684056
> 
> 
> What settings are people using with this pj? Art's settings?



I believe most of us use Art's settings for a baseline than tweak as needed.

I enabled the Super White and left Gamma at default.

I use his Cinema settings in a light controlled room.


----------



## detroit1

properly adjusted the 8350 picture quality is untouchable ; there is practically no reason to buy the 8700; not as bright; most scenes will look identical and the frame interpolation feature is gimmicky so it is not even necessary

the super white, gamma and cinema modes will give excellent blacks


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1* /forum/post/19685087
> 
> 
> properly adjusted the 8350 picture quality is untouchable ; there is practically no reason to buy the 8700; not as bright; most scenes will look identical and the frame interpolation feature is gimmicky so it is not even necessary
> 
> the super white, gamma and cinema modes will give excellent blacks



This statment is Misleading..

there is a reason why epson has a 8350...8700 and 9700

I can blow away any screen shot of any 8350 ...with its older brother...Really come on

Where you see it is in whites and blacks..

Glad your happy with your 8350 but totally disagree with your comments.


----------



## justinbwhite

Received my 8350 from Amazon last night. Set it on a table and watched 4 hours of movies and HDTV last night. This is my first PJ and all I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## warpdrive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1* /forum/post/19685087
> 
> 
> properly adjusted the 8350 picture quality is untouchable ; there is practically no reason to buy the 8700; not as bright; most scenes will look identical and the frame interpolation feature is gimmicky so it is not even necessary
> 
> the super white, gamma and cinema modes will give excellent blacks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19685724
> 
> 
> This statment is Misleading..
> 
> there is a reason why epson has a 8350...8700 and 9700
> 
> I can blow away any screen shot of any 8350 ...with its older brother...Really come on
> 
> Where you see it is in whites and blacks..
> 
> Glad your happy with your 8350 but totally disagree with your comments.



I had a 8350 on order, but when I saw a 8700 in person, I cancelled my order. The 8700 blacks are noticeably better, and FI is actually pretty useful for watching sports, it makes everything easier to follow. If you also watch SD material, the 8700's scaling quality is a thing of beauty

Saying the 8350 is untouchable is a pretty laughable comment.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19682637
> 
> 
> Do i really need to buy a special dvd or blu-ray? I will if i have to but it just seems like i could find a youtube video or something... Any suggestions?



I got the Tried the Avia I... totally antiquated disk ... Avia II is okay (both available from netflix), but I now bought the Disney World of Wonder bluray and it is great. well laid out, lots of sample tracks, 3 levels of calibration, beginner, intermediate and advanced. nice instruction manual which can be downloaded at the link in my sig. Also the Producer of WOW Bluray is an avid member of these forums and is very helpful advice wise... Huge + in my book. there is a good thread on the calibration forum Here. 


I got the Disk via amazon for under $29. You also get the special blue filter for viewing the color test patterns.

One thing I have discovered is that we get used to watching uncalibrated video. So you so you have to be willing to give yourself some adjustment time. remember all the people making the movies are using the same basic methods and industry accepted standards provided on these disks. So to best see video the way the producers intended is to use a calibration disk to setup your system.

My Dad was visiting from from CA where he has a handyman business in south Orange County. he has worked on and seen many home theater installs and said mine exceeded any that he had seen for quality even over some $50K systems. though I am sure he is quite biased heh! still made me feel good about my setup.


----------



## hanly2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russhater* /forum/post/19684326
> 
> 
> I am sure this has been asked a hundred times already, but I didn't have the patience to looks through 78 pages. I need a cheap ceiling mount for this projector. I know that monoprice doesn't have any that fit, and usually they are my go-to store for things like this. What are you guys using to slap this thing on the ceiling? Thanks!



Buy the monoprice 4 leg one and spend like $4 to modify it with some pieces of metal. Real easy and works well.


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19685071
> 
> 
> I believe most of us use Art's settings for a baseline than tweak as needed.
> 
> I enabled the Super White and left Gamma at default.
> 
> I use his Cinema settings in a light controlled room.



Care to repost "Art's settings"?

Never come across this, sorry if it's in an earlier post in this thread and I missed it.


BTW, this is the Vikuiti calibration disk I got a few years back:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=801422


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19687822
> 
> 
> Care to repost "Art's settings"?
> 
> Never come across this, sorry if it's in an earlier post in this thread and I missed it.


 http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19685724
> 
> 
> This statment is Misleading..
> 
> there is a reason why epson has a 8350...8700 and 9700
> 
> I can blow away any screen shot of any 8350 ...with its older brother...Really come on
> 
> Where you see it is in whites and blacks..
> 
> Glad your happy with your 8350 but totally disagree with your comments.



Blow away?

Let's see them.


I do believe the higher price models have slightly better PQ but not dramatically better.

It's not like when you buy a baseline Ford Mustang, then drive a GT or Cobra, in which there are dramatic differences felt and seen on the 3 different models.


On the Epson line, the difference between models is slight incremental improvements, not eye popping dramatic differences.


Also, the screen play a big role on PQ as well.


----------



## newfmp3

Guys, I am trying to pick out a mount. How far apart are the mounting holes?


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19687838
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php



Ah, I had seen that page...

didn't realize it was what you guys were referring to.


Interesting how using my calibration disk, I ended up really tweaking the brightness and contrast...anyone else find this same thing or have an explanation?


----------



## Andy238

I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now (finally scored the hhg deal). I absolutely love it! I upgraded from a Panny AE900. Huge improvement. Running in cinema mode with lamp in eco. For HDTV I swith to XV-Color.


For anyone wondering about light output - don't worry. My screen is a 118" wide 2.37AR fixed SMX screen. I think the gain is about 1.1. Pj is mounted 18ft back in a dedicated HT. This pj is bright! I was using an A-lens and scaler but at the moment I'm zooming and using the VP50 to scale the image accordingly. If I switch to Living Room mode, the image is almost plasma like. LR mode is a bit too bright but that will come in handy when the bulb dims over time. Speaking of bulbs...


Now that I've praised the pj I have to share a recent event. With about 16 hours on the bulb it went POP!










Yep, the dang thing imploded. I couldn't believe it. This is my 3rd pj and the first time this ever happened. I called Epson and explained what happened and they were very helpful. I called yesterday morning and a new bulb arrived today. Now THAT is service!


I was kinda scared to take the bulb out to see the aftermath but Epson did a great job designing this pj. The lamp as well as the lamp compartment is self-contained and enclosed. Terrible description, sorry. But basically it means nothing can happen to the other pj components when the bulb blows. Nice job Epson!


BTW, the original bulb as well as the replacement were made in China.


Now I can have a happy holiday again... Yea!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19687863
> 
> 
> Blow away?
> 
> Let's see them.



Plasmaman Ask and you shall receive

..

Epson 9700ub


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19688052
> 
> 
> Guys, I am trying to pick out a mount. How far apart are the mounting holes?



Dude do your self a favor and buy the mount from epson..

All units 8350, 8700, 9700 take the same mount from epson

and there mount is made for there projectors


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19688532
> 
> 
> Dude do your self a favor and buy the mount from epson..
> 
> All units 8350, 8700, 9700 take the same mount from epson
> 
> and there mount is made for there projectors




The best Mounting solution is the *RPA 168* "PJ Specific Dedicated" Mount by *Chief*.


In comparison the Epson mount looks like just so much junk.


Harsh words, but true. Check it out and see.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19688520
> 
> 
> Plasmaman Ask and you shall receive
> 
> ..
> 
> Epson 9700ub



Not sure about blowing away an 8350










Here is mine in action, along with terrible camera skills, and I dont think it looks half bad.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19688748
> 
> 
> Not sure about blowing away an 8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is mine in action, along with terrible camera skills, and I dont think it looks half bad.



Your Shot is zoomed mine are not ...

Take your shot like i have taken mine distance wise

and then lets talk


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19688784
> 
> 
> Your Shot is zoomed mine are not ...
> 
> Take your shot like i have taken mine distance wise
> 
> and then lets talk



Ill give it a shot tomorrow.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19688794
> 
> 
> Ill give it a shot tomorrow.



Ya try it so you see screen and room....

Miss gave me pointers on taking screen shots that way ,..


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19688735
> 
> 
> The best Mounting solution is the *RPA 168* "PJ Specific Dedicated" Mount by *Chief*.
> 
> 
> In comparison the Epson mount looks like just so much junk.
> 
> 
> Harsh words, but true. Check it out and see.



That mount looks very similiar to the one used by Mits on the 6800 & 7000

projectors

Its definetly alot better than those cheap 4 arm type mounts ....


Nice


----------



## soutthpaw

I would like to know the tips on taking accurate pics of screen images if someone wants to post them up. I assume flash off, what about W/B, ISO etc I don't think I can manually set F stop or aperture on my camera..

also can we pick a bluray movie everyone probably owns .. Avatar for example


----------



## fraisa

Not an Expert but this is what i have been doing lately

Flash always off.

ISO Higher the better ie 800

Something will be doing after christmas is taking pics on Tripod..( that was on my list and see something that resembles a tri pod box under the tree....lol)

ITs very easy to make a zoomed pic look great but one at my distance is a more accurate pic...

My suggestion is when posting screen shots is do a unzoomed and zoomed...

therefore you get a better feel for what the quality of the shot is...


----------



## dvrmstrng

Go back to the rear of the room. With the camera set to auto, Zoom in until you frame the Screen, with some wall area also showing. Fire away. Of the image is too dark as seen in your Preview Screen, the set the ISO to 800 and retake the shot.


Use a Brace or Tripod, and use the Timer to avoid Camera Shake. Shots taken from any distance are better done if Zoom is used a bit to attenuate the Screen's light output so it does not overdrive the camera' metering

-Mississippi Man


----------



## Marty D.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19688794
> 
> 
> Ill give it a shot tomorrow.




Why don't you two start a new thread "Battle of the Bulbs" or something. This is the "The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread". Let's talk about that.


As for the Epson 8350, I am very pleased. Even more after applying the setting recommendations from Projectorreview. I did have to invert the PJ and rest it upon rubber feet in my rear AV cabinet to center the lens. The len's shift is good but was not as forgiving as my Panasonic AE700 was.


----------



## russhater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19687795
> 
> 
> Buy the monoprice 4 leg one and spend like $4 to modify it with some pieces of metal. Real easy and works well.



Can you provide details on what to do to modify it? Or do you know where I can find that information?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marty D.* /forum/post/19690289
> 
> 
> Why don't you two start a new thread "Battle of the Bulbs" or something. This is the "The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread". Let's talk about that.
> 
> 
> As for the Epson 8350, I am very pleased. Even more after applying the setting recommendations from Projectorreview. I did have to invert the PJ and rest it upon rubber feet in my rear AV cabinet to center the lens. The len's shift is good but was not as forgiving as my Panasonic AE700 was.



Your Getting ahead of the horse...

Go back to the origin of what was said last page back.

Someone mentioned that there is no need to get an 8700 or 9700

and that the 8350 is just as good...

THats not a correct statment.

I am not intrested in doing a screen shot battle.

someone asked for me to post a pic and i did.

but not going to be going back and forth with it...


Will say this would like to see more screen shots posted in this thread by other people showing off the 8350....


----------



## Marty D.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19690347
> 
> 
> Your Getting ahead of the horse...
> 
> Go back to the origin of what was said last page back.
> 
> 
> Will say this would like to see more screen shots posted in this thread by other people showing off the 8350....



I did read the origin of the thread so I was getting ahead of the horse before we had pics of other PJs posted.


I agree about seeing more 8350 pics. I will post some this weekend.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marty D.* /forum/post/19690368
> 
> 
> I did read the origin of the thread so I was getting ahead of the horse before we had pics of other PJs posted.
> 
> 
> I agree about seeing more 8350 pics. I will post some this weekend.



Awesome......


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19688520
> 
> 
> Plasmaman Ask and you shall receive
> 
> ..
> 
> Epson 9700ub



Thats a good looking image with a lot of ambient light.

Which screen and size is that?


----------



## kriktsemaj99

That space is a lot like my basement with limited height. A 2.35:1 screen would fit nicely. Unfortunately screenshots tell you very little about picture quailty because the camera can make a good picture look washed out or vice versa.


----------



## fraisa

Screen is SI Black Diamond .8 Gain 113 inch 16x9

Room is a mulit purpose Media Room

Not good for 2:35

Watch to much sports


----------



## indybrian

Kids watching Horton Hears a Who, DVD, going through Pioneer VSX-1120 from a PS3. Light controlled room, sconces on rear wall on, theater doors open in letting in some ambient light, little bit of zoom, no flash, ISO 800.


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marty D.* /forum/post/19690289
> 
> 
> Why don't you two start a new thread "Battle of the Bulbs" or something. This is the "The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread". Let's talk about that.
> 
> 
> As for the Epson 8350, I am very pleased. Even more after applying the setting recommendations from Projectorreview. I did have to invert the PJ and rest it upon rubber feet in my rear AV cabinet to center the lens. The len's shift is good but was not as forgiving as my Panasonic AE700 was.



I suppose I should post screen shots of the 8350 in the 8700ub thread then?


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19690772
> 
> 
> Screen is SI Black Diamond .8 Gain 113 inch 16x9
> 
> Room is a mulit purpose Media Room
> 
> Not good for 2:35
> 
> Watch to much sports



Thanks.


Those are out of my price range, and they don't have a retractable screen.


I thought the Black Diamond would be good for 2.35 since it doesn't need masking on that screen. -at least that's what one of their videos shows.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

He meant that my suggestion of a 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen was not good for his main use, which is 16:9 material.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dude do your self a favor and buy the mount from epson..
> 
> All units 8350, 8700, 9700 take the same mount from epson
> 
> and there mount is made for there projectors



I may already have a mount for it. My department has tons of mounts sitting around ready to go in the garbage. I just need to know if they will fit the Epson, I realize it's a little on the big side.



So I really need to know the space between the holes. My projector will not ship for another week or so.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/19691623
> 
> 
> He meant that my suggestion of a 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen was not good for his main use, which is 16:9 material.



Thats what i ment.....

I watch alot of 16x9 content , watch more than movies...


As for SI BD with a retractable screen

they are coming out with a moterized screen releasing in 2011


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19691630
> 
> 
> I may already have a mount for it. My department has tons of mounts sitting around ready to go in the garbage. I just need to know if they will fit the Epson, I realize it's a little on the big side.
> 
> 
> 
> So I really need to know the space between the holes. My projector will not ship for another week or so.



You should have bought it from me and it would have been there for christmas day.....lol


Good luck with your mount....


If anyone is intrested in seeing a 9700 ub flush mounted i have pics posted on the 9700 thread..( the 8350, 8700,9700 all have the same type of case just different colors and stickers..)


----------



## fraisa




JayMan007 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Those are out of my price range, (Quote)
> 
> 
> Hey
> 
> all ya got to do is get into daytrading or Rap music and then you could get 2of those screens.......
> 
> Hell if all those thugs can put diamonds in there teeth there's got to be a lot of money to throw around.....lol
> 
> Unti they end up bankrupt like MC Hammer
> 
> but then you just do a reality show and its all good.....lol


----------



## fraisa




indybrian said:


> Kids watching Horton Hears a Who, DVD, going through Pioneer VSX-1120 from a PS3. Light controlled room, sconces on rear wall on, theater doors open in letting in some ambient light, little bit of zoom, no flash, ISO 800.
> 
> 
> Awesome....
> 
> Keep them coming......


----------



## motorcitymancave

I have reviewed this forum to help decide on purchasing the Epson 8350. I will say that the 1080 HD broadcasts look great(Cable box, Motorola DCX3400. Excellent detail, color, brightness and black levels.


I do have two issues of great concern:


1) When watching any Standard definition(480 i or p) the image is horrible, it appears out of focus and grainy/jagged edges. I am not sure if this projectors scaling is the problem....on my old Infocus IN72 the same broadcasts were much better, clearer, and in focus. Does anyone have any input or advice on watching standard definition content. I also plugged in an Svideo output from my dvd player and same thing, picture just looked poor, a bit better than from the cable box, but still seemed out of focus. Likewise the image on the from the dvd on my Infocus IN72 actually looked pretty darn good.


Will a better upscaling method help, ie. from a receiver with upscaling to 1080p..better scaling software?? Are there any settings to consider to help correct.


2) When watching sports in 1080i from the cable box, the picture is very good quality, but with very fast motion, the image/player seems to blurr with a digital aspect, hard to explain...never saw this with my dlp projectors. Is this something with this projector or could it be my cable box Motorola DCX3400 output at 1080i.


Any suggestions, comments would help.


Thanks again,

Motorcitymancave


----------



## par4




fraisa said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19691475
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Those are out of my price range, (Quote)
> 
> 
> Hey
> 
> all ya got to do is get into daytrading or Rap music and then you could get 2of those screens.......
> 
> Hell if all those thugs can put diamonds in there teeth there's got to be a lot of money to throw around.....lol
> 
> Unti they end up bankrupt like MC Hammer
> 
> but then you just do a reality show and its all good.....lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's all good, til it's all bad!
Click to expand...


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *motorcitymancave* /forum/post/19692365
> 
> 
> 
> 1) When watching any Standard definition(480 i or p) the image is horrible, it appears out of focus and grainy/jagged edges. I am not sure if this projectors scaling is the problem....on my old Infocus IN72 the same broadcasts were much better, clearer, and in focus. Does anyone have any input or advice on watching standard definition content. I also plugged in an Svideo output from my dvd player and same thing, picture just looked poor, a bit better than from the cable box, but still seemed out of focus. Likewise the image on the from the dvd on my Infocus IN72 actually looked pretty darn good.




My kids watched a Charlie Brown DVD from the library that was 4:3 (that is how old it is) and the picture still looked very good. I am playing it from a PS3 and sending it through my Pioneer VSX-1120. I have yet to see any bad pictures presented by my 8350.


----------



## Schreinereiner

Just finished setting up my 8350 yesterday coming from an Optoma H31 (it was waaay past time to ditch 480p...). I got the bundle from visualapex.com including the 106 inch version of their fixed frame screen, ceiling mount, hdmi cable etc.


The generic mount they sell is surprisingly well built and thought through. Made for relatively easy installation. And for the money their fixed frame screen is really good. Gain of 1.1 will do just fine in my room (lack of full light control). The projector also is playing nice so far with my Onkyo TX-SR707.


Veeery happy so far. Zero convergence or color haze issues and after some post-calibration following the guidance by Art in the review at projectorreviews.com all I can say is WOW! I'm running the projector in dynamic mode most of the time and am still very satisfied with the black levels.


I knew I was trading up but this projector so far has easily exceeded my expectations!


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19690695
> 
> 
> Thats a good looking image with a lot of ambient light.
> 
> Which screen and size is that?



well any animated movie or sports will look good even on a low end PJ. Go back to the image of Chris Rock. That isn't very impressive. Anyway...the images aren't impressive enough to spend twice the amount. If the PJ is free of other issues then it may be worth. But looking at the 8700 thread it doesn't appear that way.


He are some images from my uncalibrated Infocus IN72 480p with ND2 filter, thrown on an off white wall with DIY black frame in a living room with light colored carpet. Still going at 4144 hrs! (touch wood). No filters to clean, no issues. That is the kind of reliability I like. I paid $599 for it 4 yrs ago.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19691630
> 
> 
> I may already have a mount for it. My department has tons of mounts sitting around ready to go in the garbage. I just need to know if they will fit the Epson, I realize it's a little on the big side.
> 
> 
> 
> So I really need to know the space between the holes. My projector will not ship for another week or so.



RTxM







- http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf [Page 17]



Also, if you're looking for low cost and/or flexible solutions, there is a good thread started by Monkey_Man relating to DIY mounts:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=232749 [It has grown a little lengthy, but should give you some great ideas and encouragement]


----------



## hanly2

No matter how many screen shots you guys post they are still only going to look as good as the monitor you are viewing it on.


----------



## mndrummer74




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19692777
> 
> 
> well any animated movie or sports will look good even on a low end PJ. Go back to the image of Chris Rock. That isn't very impressive. Anyway...the images aren't impressive enough to spend twice the amount. If the PJ is free of other issues then it may be worth. But looking at the 8700 thread it doesn't appear that way.
> 
> 
> He are some images from my uncalibrated Infocus IN72 480p with ND2 filter, thrown on an off white wall with DIY black frame in a living room with light colored carpet. Still going at 4144 hrs! (touch wood). No filters to clean, no issues. That is the kind of reliability I like. I paid $599 for it 4 yrs ago.



Mupi....Screen shots are great, but why the three stooges? Actually, I bet the REAL three stooges would be offended by what I just said. Oops!!!


I just installed my 8350 2 weeks ago, and it too has exceeded all of my expectations! What an incredible image, and I'm just using the off-white sheetrock wall until I get the rest of the room done. I can't wait to get a real screen!!!!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19692777
> 
> 
> well any animated movie or sports will look good even on a low end PJ. Go back to the image of Chris Rock. That isn't very impressive. Anyway...the images aren't impressive enough to spend twice the amount. If the PJ is free of other issues then it may be worth. But looking at the 8700 thread it doesn't appear that way.
> 
> 
> He are some images from my uncalibrated Infocus IN72 480p with ND2 filter, thrown on an off white wall with DIY black frame in a living room with light colored carpet. Still going at 4144 hrs! (touch wood). No filters to clean, no issues. That is the kind of reliability I like. I paid $599 for it 4 yrs ago.



that chris rock pic is a side view at worst conditions to show a worst light enviroment and they are not zoomed


Your images are all zoomed with no ambient light

Big Difference.......


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neworder59* /forum/post/19679326
> 
> 
> You can manually adjust this projector to fit on a 2.35:1 screen. That is the setup I have. 120" 2.35:1 screen and a 8350 projector.
> 
> 
> That will save you $700.....



I'm too looking at getting the 8350 with a 2.35:1. Just wondering is it a pain to adjust the zoom to fit the screen? does the black bars bleed past the screen onto the wall (which will be painted very dark)? How's the picture look with the 2.35:1 and last question, if I leave the zoom on to 2.35 then watch a 16x9, can I leave the zoom as is but have the black bars on each side of the screen, or does the picture bleed on top and below the screen.... any help is much appreciated. Thanks again.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19693161
> 
> 
> I'm too looking at getting the 8350 with a 2.35:1. Just wondering is it a pain to adjust the zoom to fit the screen? does the black bars bleed past the screen onto the wall (which will be painted very dark)? How's the picture look with the 2.35:1 and last question, if I leave the zoom on to 2.35 then watch a 16x9, can I leave the zoom as is but have the black bars on each side of the screen, or does the picture bleed on top and below the screen.... any help is much appreciated. Thanks again.



Very eazy to zoom to 2.35...

Black Bars will bleed past the screen onto the wall...

No you cant leave the zoom where it is to go to 16x9 image.

Your image would go past the screen, you would have to manually rezoom to fit the 16x9 image on the 2.35 screen then you wouldnt have bleed past effect

but you would have a much smaller image...

If you want to go 2.35 with this unit plan to only watch 2.35 content or its a real pain...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19693245
> 
> 
> Very eazy to zoom to 2.35...



...


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19693245
> 
> 
> If you want to go 2.35 with this unit plan to only watch 2.35 content or its a real pain...



Not trying to be cute but...not sure I understand how those aren't sort of contradictory? I.e. if its easy to do, how can it be a pain?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19693452
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to be cute but...not sure I understand how those aren't sort of contradictory? I.e. if its easy to do, how can it be a pain?



Its eazy to zoom it to that size its a pain in the *zz if you move it to a different aspect ratio...

ALso it would drive me absolutly nuts to have those black bars overspilling on my wall

but for some its a non issue

Hopfully that clears up what i was trying to say.....


Again if it was me I would do the 2:35 Right and get an Anamphoric Lens Add on that can go from 2:35 to 16x9 with ease...

But thats me ( Remember i am a Epson Dealer so I love to sell the add on lens....lol)


----------



## rossandwendy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will say this would like to see more screen shots posted in this thread by other people showing off the 8350....



Here are a few of my 8350, my first projector and compared to my 3-year-old Panasonic 58" plasma the Epson looks great, for the price I am very satisfied.


These pics are taken to approximate the view I see from our seats: we sit 10 feet from a fixed Elite Cinewhite 1.1 gain 106" diagonal 16:9 screen. These are not zoomed and not cropped - the lens was set to 50mm on a fullframe (35mm sized chip) tripod-mounted DSLR which approximates the non-peripheral view of human vision - it's not telephoto and it's not wideangle, which is why 50mm has been considered the classic 'normal' lens for decades. We watch with the lights off and curtains drawn, but a small amount of ambient light leaks in during the day. The 8350 was set on Cinema mode, Superwhite on, auto iris on fast, Epson default sharpening on, Epson noise reduction off.


My Nikon DSLR was set to record RAW files (Nikon calls theirs NEF) to avoid any in-camera processing, opened with Adobe Camera Raw at default settings and then resized down to meet the max 800 pixel picture height requirement set by AVS (no Photoshop adjustments were made). I am viewing on a fully calibrated Mac and the exposure, color, and contrast I see is close to the on-screen view in my room (but I do notice the black bars in person being slightly visible compared to the pics). YMMV due to the fact that most people are using monitors not calibrated for color balance, contrast, or brightness.


Having said all that, I hope the screenshots are helpful to those of you contemplating an 8350 purchase. My wife & I are very pleased with the purchase and this model will serve us nicely for the next few years. As a critical professional photographer I find the 8350 image from an Oppo BDP-83 to be very natural and film-like, especially when I bump the factory default sharpening down a couple notches. We realize there are better projectors on the market but for the price the 8350 represents high value.


Cheers,

Ross


----------



## rossandwendy

A few more 8350 screenshots:


----------



## snoopy555

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rossandwendy* 
A few more 8350 screenshots:
nice screenshorts look better than 8700.


----------



## newfmp3

looks like I'm going to have to place an order with Monoprice for some hdmi cables again


I love and hate monoprice. I only need to order one cable......by the time I'm done adding other things I would like to have it'll be 300.00 !


Anyways, I only have component ran to my old pj. Now with the 8350 I'm assuming I'll have to jump to hdmi? I'll be using 360/ps3


do I get the high speed monoprice ones or the standard?


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rossandwendy* 
A few more 8350 screenshots:
Nice Pics

Keep them coming....


----------



## hanly2

After some more experience watching mine, I am starting to see some noise I guess it's called it looks like when you get too close to a ****** lcd tv and you can see the pixels and it looks like it is sparkling at you. Could this just be my screen? I have a elite 100" manual?


----------



## tbreyman

I have stumbled upon an issue with the Auto Iris on the 8350.


When my Panasonic BD35 Blu-ray player loads, it displays a number of status messages in small blue colored boxes. When the "Network connection is starting" message is displayed, the screen behind the message box changes from light blue to black.


When the Iris is engaged, the blue status dialog turns lime green and is unreadable. The problem is always present when the Iris is in normal mode, sometimes present in high speed mode, and never present when the Iris is off.


I should say that I have been running with Iris in normal since setting the projector up a few weeks ago and have never noticed a problem while actually watching a movie?


This is nor my first projector (I just retired a HS-10), but my first one with an Iris. Is this common?


Todd


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tbreyman* 
I have stumbled upon an issue with the Auto Iris on the 8350.


When my Panasonic BD35 Blu-ray player loads, it displays a number of status messages in small blue colored boxes. When the "Network connection is starting" message is displayed, the screen behind the message box changes from light blue to black.


When the Iris is engaged, the blue status dialog turns lime green and is unreadable. The problem is always present when the Iris is in normal mode, sometimes present in high speed mode, and never present when the Iris is off.


I should say that I have been running with Iris in normal since setting the projector up a few weeks ago and have never noticed a problem while actually watching a movie?


This is nor my first projector (I just retired a HS-10), but my first one with an Iris. Is this common?


Todd
Something is wrong with your Auto Iris ,

I would contact your warrenty and get that taken care of ....


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fraisa* 
Again if it was me I would do the 2:35 Right and get an Anamphoric Lens Add on that can go from 2:35 to 16x9 with ease...

But thats me ( Remember i am a Epson Dealer so I love to sell the add on lens....lol)
What is 2:35 anyway? (original theater movie format or something?) I know 16x9 is wide screen. can you explain in Newbie terms and maybe some thumbnail examples of the projector image with and without the add-on lens etc....


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* 
What is 2:35 anyway? (original theater movie format or something?) I know 16x9 is wide screen. can you explain in Newbie terms and maybe some thumbnail examples of the projector image with and without the add-on lens etc....
K

This is a 16x9 Image.....on 16x9 screen










This is a 2.35 image on 16x9 screen....

You have black bars top and bottom on screen

Therefore you are not experianceing full 1080p on the image

because resolution is wasted on the black bars vs on the film image...(Scream is coming can hear it all ready but its true..)

This is the major difference between a poormans 2.35 vs a proper 2.35 screen with an added lens or zoomed out 2.35 mode










This is a 2.35 screen...










This is a 2.35 image on 2.35 screen and all resolution is going to the image and not black bars

The image should fill the screen and have no black bars top or bottom...










This is the add on anamorphoric lens from epson...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snoopy555* /forum/post/19693832
> 
> 
> nice screenshorts look better than 8700.



Not a fair comparison - the pics with Jessica Alba's butt will always look superior.


----------



## rossandwendy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19694755
> 
> 
> Not a fair comparison - the pics with Jessica Alba's butt will always look superior.



That's true


----------



## Cleveland Plasma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jacampbell* /forum/post/19681356
> 
> 
> I know it's not nice to ask price questions but the lowest I can find this pj for in Canada is $1399. Any suggestions where I can find it for cheaper?



Buy from a US dealer


----------



## rossandwendy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice Pics
> 
> Keep them coming....



Thanks, I've enjoyed seeing others post them too.


I tightened up the crop on these so there's not so much wasted space:


----------



## streaker76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19693509
> 
> 
> Its eazy to zoom it to that size its a pain in the *zz if you move it to a different aspect ratio...
> 
> ALso it would drive me absolutly nuts to have those black bars overspilling on my wall
> 
> but for some its a non issue
> 
> Hopfully that clears up what i was trying to say.....
> 
> 
> Again if it was me I would do the 2:35 Right and get an Anamphoric Lens Add on that can go from 2:35 to 16x9 with ease...
> 
> But thats me ( Remember i am a Epson Dealer so I love to sell the add on lens....lol)



So what is an Epson A-lens worth? Also I'm trying to figure out a screen, do i go gray or white and what type of gain with this projector. Would be in a basement with very little or no light at all. Help on that would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> K
> 
> This is a 16x9 Image.....on 16x9 screen
> 
> 
> This is a 2.35 image on 16x9 screen....
> 
> You have black bars top and bottom on screen
> 
> Therefore you are not experianceing full 1080p on the image
> 
> because resolution is wasted on the black bars vs on the film image...(Scream is coming can hear it all ready but its true..)
> 
> This is the major difference between a poormans 2.35 vs a proper 2.35 screen with an added lens or zoomed out 2.35 mode
> 
> 
> This is a 2.35 screen...
> 
> 
> This is a 2.35 image on 2.35 screen and all resolution is going to the image and not black bars
> 
> The image should fill the screen and have no black bars top or bottom...
> 
> 
> This is the add on anamorphoric lens from epson...



Epsons website doesn't say that lens is compatible with the 8350. Are you actually using an anamorphic lens on an 8350? Do you have pics, just wondering how much mass it adds to the projector. It also says you must use a video processor in conjuction with the lens. What is that? Sorry, very ignorant when it comes to the anamorphic lens stuff.


----------



## BBQ7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snoopy555* /forum/post/19693832
> 
> 
> nice screenshorts look better than 8700.



Wouldn't the 8350 with a superior screen look better than the 8700 with a generic screen?


Don't know if it's true but I see it posted alot, that a cheap projector with an expensive screen will always look better than a expensive projector on a cheap screen.


Anyways great pictures, would love to see more non-animated shots. Please post more


----------



## Gelinas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rossandwendy* /forum/post/19694998
> 
> 
> That's true



great shot you captured there.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *streaker76* /forum/post/19695430
> 
> 
> So what is an Epson A-lens worth? Also I'm trying to figure out a screen, do i go gray or white and what type of gain with this projector. Would be in a basement with very little or no light at all. Help on that would be appreciated. Thanks



You would have to get a quote from a dealer ,

do know there not cheap....

Go Gray....

I use a .8 gain screen...

SI BLack diamond


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snoopy555* /forum/post/19693832
> 
> 
> nice screenshorts look better than 8700.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19695487
> 
> 
> Epsons website doesn't say that lens is compatible with the 8350. Are you actually using an anamorphic lens on an 8350? Do you have pics, just wondering how much mass it adds to the projector. It also says you must use a video processor in conjuction with the lens. What is that? Sorry, very ignorant when it comes to the anamorphic lens stuff.



thats my point to do true 2:35 and do it right you cant do it with a 8350..

YOu need to get a projector that supports the addon lens...

9700 ub....


Guys a true 2:35 set is not for the person on a budget...

its damn expensive to do it right...


----------



## fraisa

Keep the screen shots coming

its nice to actually see shots instead of just words....


Hint hint

try to match my shots from the 9700 thread....laying down the challenge...lol

ha ha


Seriously great shots guys keep it up....


----------



## dvrmstrng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19696066
> 
> 
> Keep the screen shots coming
> 
> its nice to actually see shots instead of just words....
> 
> 
> Hint hint
> 
> try to match my shots from the 9700 thread....laying down the challenge...lol
> 
> ha ha
> 
> 
> Seriously great shots guys keep it up



i knew you would spot that post.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvrmstrng* /forum/post/19696076
> 
> 
> i knew you would spot that post.



Hey really like seeing these screen shots come in

thats awesome....


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> thats my point to do true 2:35 and do it right you cant do it with a 8350..
> 
> YOu need to get a projector that supports the addon lens...
> 
> 9700 ub....
> 
> 
> Guys a true 2:35 set is not for the person on a budget...
> 
> its damn expensive to do it right...



Ahhhh, I gotcha. You know before I started this project I read an article that debated 16:9 or 2:35. Saying to figure this out before starting, and that most material is 16:9. I even went through my bluray collection and found most were 16:9. But I'll be damn that it seems every bluray I've gotten since is 2:35, lol. Oh well. I'm very happy with the 8350 and setup I accomplished.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19691905
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19691475
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Those are out of my price range,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey
> 
> all ya got to do is get into daytrading or Rap music and then you could get 2of those screens.......
> 
> Hell if all those thugs can put diamonds in there teeth there's got to be a lot of money to throw around.....lol
> 
> Unti they end up bankrupt like MC Hammer
> 
> but then you just do a reality show and its all good.....lol
Click to expand...


to go along with that, I saw this, this morning...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiHRqdlN3ME


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19697183
> 
> 
> to go along with that, I saw this, this morning...
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiHRqdlN3ME



Ha ha ha ha...

thats awesome.....


----------



## buster6070

Anybody self calibrated their 8350? I'm close to 100 hours on the bulb and was looking at the Disney WOW. This is my first projector though so I have a few questions.


1. Do you have to go through every color mode (dynamic, cinema, etc.) and calibrate one at a time? I'm guessing yes, but just checking.


2. How long did it take you?


3. If you calibrate each color mode, won't that kind of defeat the purpose of having different color modes? Won't they all just turn out looking the same with the same brightness?


4. Would a lower end model like our 8350 be worth the money hiring somebody to calibrate?


Just curious about this stuff, especially the time part. I'm only home a few days a week and spending a few days calibrating would be killer to me. Might be better to have someone come in and do it.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19696061
> 
> 
> thats my point to do true 2:35 and do it right you cant do it with a 8350..
> 
> YOu need to get a projector that supports the addon lens...
> 
> 9700 ub....
> 
> 
> Guys a true 2:35 set is not for the person on a budget...
> 
> its damn expensive to do it right...



Wouldn't you also need a 1080p source in 2.35 format?


I don't think there are anamorphic Blu-Ray, are there?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayMan007* /forum/post/19697336
> 
> 
> Wouldn't you also need a 1080p source in 2.35 format?
> 
> 
> I don't think there are anamorphic Blu-Ray, are there?



No the add on lens does that work for you...

thats why its so expensive...

Like Really expensive...

Think take the cost of the 8350 and multiply it by 6...

Its up there


----------



## vullcan

I use my projector on dynamic mode with a HTPC and now I can see the desktop icons and desktop background image burned into the "screen" O_O


I shut the projector off for a few hours but they are still there...


I didnt even know this was possible with a projector, what should I do?


Everything shuts off after 20 minutes of inactivity, but I guess even those 20 minutes added up over time burned the image in? I havent used a screen saver since like 1995 but I guess now I'll have to start using one that kicks in after 5 minutes?


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use my projector on dynamic mode with a HTPC and now I can see the desktop icons and desktop background image burned into the "screen" O_O
> 
> 
> I shut the projector off for a few hours but they are still there...
> 
> 
> I didnt even know this was possible with a projector, what should I do?
> 
> 
> Everything shuts off after 20 minutes of inactivity, but I guess even those 20 minutes added up over time burned the image in? I havent used a screen saver since like 1995 but I guess now I'll have to start using one that kicks in after 5 minutes?



What type of screen are you using?


----------



## vttait23

Complete newb to projectors and I'm sure the answer is somewhere in the 90 page thread but....


..how do you change aspect ration when in HDMI? It's locked. I'm at about 15 feet throw distance right now and only getting about a 70" screen.


I'm perplexed. Also, as far as sounds goes, whats the easiest way to get sound to this thing?


I apologize in advance for the stupidity of these questions...thanks.


----------



## rossandwendy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vttait23* /forum/post/19697880
> 
> 
> Complete newb to projectors and I'm sure the answer is somewhere in the 90 page thread but....
> 
> 
> ..how do you change aspect ration when in HDMI? It's locked. I'm at about 15 feet throw distance right now and only getting about a 70" screen.
> 
> 
> I'm perplexed. Also, as far as sounds goes, whats the easiest way to get sound to this thing?
> 
> 
> I apologize in advance for the stupidity of these questions...thanks.



Did you turn the zoom ring on the lens to fill your screen image?


Sound will not come from the projector, it will come from your source and you will need speakers and a receiver...


----------



## vttait23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rossandwendy* /forum/post/19697911
> 
> 
> Did you turn the zoom ring on the lens to fill your screen image?
> 
> 
> Sound will not come from the projector, it will come from your source and you will need speakers and a receiver...



Duh, didn't realize there was another knob to turn on the lens(just thought there was focus).


Thanks.


----------



## kjr39

Anyone game on the 8350? I received the go ahead to get a 8350 from Mrs. Santa and primarily game in the room that I want to put this in. I plan on doing an Elite motorized screen with it.


My questions are:


1. What do you think of gaming on the 8350?


2. How big is too big? I will be sitting 10.5' away from the projector in a light controlled room. I was thinking either of the 100" or 106" screen.


The room is going to continue to be a multiple use room and I plan on putting my current 50" plasma on the wall and have the projector screen come down in front of it when needed.


Anything else I should consider?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19698008
> 
> 
> Anyone game on the 8350? I received the go ahead to get a 8350 from Mrs. Santa and primarily game in the room that I want to put this in. I plan on doing an Elite motorized screen with it.
> 
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1. What do you think of gaming on the 8350?
> 
> 
> 2. How big is too big? I will be sitting 10.5' away from the projector in a light controlled room. I was thinking either of the 100" or 106" screen.
> 
> 
> The room is going to continue to be a multiple use room and I plan on putting my current 50" plasma on the wall and have the projector screen come down in front of it when needed.
> 
> 
> Anything else I should consider?



Sitting 10 feet away go 90 inch and no bigger...

Will let others answer you other question


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19698008
> 
> 
> Anyone game on the 8350? I received the go ahead to get a 8350 from Mrs. Santa and primarily game in the room that I want to put this in. I plan on doing an Elite motorized screen with it.
> 
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1. What do you think of gaming on the 8350?
> 
> 
> 2. How big is too big? I will be sitting 10.5' away from the projector in a light controlled room. I was thinking either of the 100" or 106" screen.
> 
> 
> The room is going to continue to be a multiple use room and I plan on putting my current 50" plasma on the wall and have the projector screen come down in front of it when needed.
> 
> 
> Anything else I should consider?




If I had a 1080p source for gaming, I'd go to 120". I can sit 8 ft away from my DIY 120" screen with the 8350, and it's just beautiful. Beyond 13 ft I find 120" to be too small.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19698085
> 
> 
> If I had a 1080p source for gaming, I'd go to 120". I can sit 8 ft away from my DIY 120" screen with the 8350, and it's just beautiful. Beyond 13 ft I find 120" to be too small.



8ft away from a 120 inch is nuts but to each there own...


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19698008
> 
> 
> Anyone game on the 8350? I received the go ahead to get a 8350 from Mrs. Santa and primarily game in the room that I want to put this in. I plan on doing an Elite motorized screen with it.
> 
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1. What do you think of gaming on the 8350?
> 
> 
> 2. How big is too big? I will be sitting 10.5' away from the projector in a light controlled room. I was thinking either of the 100" or 106" screen.
> 
> 
> The room is going to continue to be a multiple use room and I plan on putting my current 50" plasma on the wall and have the projector screen come down in front of it when needed.
> 
> 
> Anything else I should consider?



I sit about the same distance and have a 100" screen and playing on PS3. Picture looks great and hurts my head, lol! I love it!!


----------



## fraisa

am amazed that it has been so silent regardng that zoomed shot of Kane......lol


----------



## kjr39

So somewhere between 90" and 120". :d


Fraisa, what makes you say 90" and no bigger?


I will admit that I'm somewhat worried about going too big because I want to ensure that I keep good pq. I also game for long periods of time and wonder if a really big screen would make my head hurt.


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19697776
> 
> 
> What type of screen are you using?



I put screen in quotes because its not really on the screen (plus im using my wall), no epson is bright enough to burn an image onto a wall at 15 feet away.


I assume it burned the static image somewhere in the projector. They use 3 LCD screens inside right?


Anyway anyone know how to fix it or do I have to RMA it with epson?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19698292
> 
> 
> So somewhere between 90" and 120". :d
> 
> 
> Fraisa, what makes you say 90" and no bigger?
> 
> 
> I will admit that I'm somewhat worried about going too big because I want to ensure that I keep good pq. I also game for long periods of time and wonder if a really big screen would make my head hurt.



When you are that close you notice things like screen material and pixels noise from the source....

Wouldnt think of watching Sat that close the pixelization would drive me nuts

If It was straight 1080p bluray source you could get away with it,

but when i am that close i get dizzy from the screen. could have something to do with my eye prescription glasses..


Here is the official Guide...


SMPTE Guideline is

Viewing DIstance= Diagonal Size x 1.63 inches


THX Guidelines is

Viewing Distance= Width x 1.54 inches


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19698462
> 
> 
> THX Guidelines is
> 
> Viewing Distance= Width x 1.54 min













That 1.54 is actually the THX farthest recommended - and its based on a 2.39:1 aspect ratio (not sure what the person who asked was planning - 16:9 perhaps if gaming is the priority). The height ratio would work for any aspect ratio though.


Anyway, it all comes down to preference - some like sitting close, some further back - buy the projector and shoot onto a sheet, and decide what size screen you like the best.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19697440
> 
> 
> I use my projector on dynamic mode with a HTPC and now I can see the desktop icons and desktop background image burned into the "screen" O_O
> 
> 
> I shut the projector off for a few hours but they are still there...
> 
> 
> I didnt even know this was possible with a projector, what should I do?
> 
> 
> Everything shuts off after 20 minutes of inactivity, but I guess even those 20 minutes added up over time burned the image in? I havent used a screen saver since like 1995 but I guess now I'll have to start using one that kicks in after 5 minutes?



To determine if it's the projector or screen with the issue, take a peice of white paper and move it in front of the projector to the suspected burn in areas and see if the burn in shows up on the paper.


----------



## fitbrit

2 screen heights from a 120" 16:9 screen is 118" - just shy of 10 feet. Agreed that personal preference rules, but even under 10ft from 120" doesn't overfill my field of vision. I think I could take in the whole screen and still react to peripheral cues in an FPS from 10ft easily. Plus, I don't watch broadcast TV - just bluray and bluray rips of TV shows and movies generally speaking.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *meant as a joke, so don't take offence!* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fraisa, do you have a spare 90" screen you're trying to sell this guy, or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He might buy a 9700 from you too if you work on him enough.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19698715
> 
> 
> 2 screen heights from a 120" 16:9 screen is 118" - just shy of 10 feet. Agreed that personal preference rules, but even under 10ft from 120" doesn't overfill my field of vision. I think I could take in the whole screen and still react to peripheral cues in an FPS from 10ft easily. Plus, I don't watch broadcast TV - just bluray and bluray rips of TV shows and movies generally speaking.



nice .....lol


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19698704
> 
> 
> To determine if it's the projector or screen with the issue, take a peice of white paper and move it in front of the projector to the suspected burn in areas and see if the burn in shows up on the paper.



Yes it shows up on the paper.


Epson suggested leaving a solid white background projecting for 2 hours. My problem isnt blacks burned in however, its white pixels.


Think I should try a solid black image? The guy at epson was reading from a book and wasnt very knowledgeable


----------



## jlj93byu

Had this installed this morning at my dad's house. The specialists who installed it said picture quality via component wouldn't be any less than using HDMI and so they only hooked it up via component. My father's screen is 123" diagonal. On a screen this size, wouldn't there be a noticeable difference by using a HDMI instead of component cable? I'm thinking of hopping over to Monoprice and grabbing a 30 ft. HDMI. Indeed, component can only transmit 1080i instead of 1080p, hence I'm thinking there will be a difference on such a large screen.


----------



## Chad T

Goodness, this thread is newb city. Don't recall this level and extent of ongoing newbness in any other thread in my AVS tenure. Just glad to see folks getting into front projection, though! The 8350 has clearly been a hit.


As far as choosing a screen size, check out this link:

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html 


That provides some guidelines, but it's still very subjective. I'd recommend getting some blackout cloth or something similar so you can experiment with various screen sizes to see what your eyes like before committing $ to a screen purchase.


I have a 107" 16:9 screen and my viewing distance is 10.5'. Projector is an Epson HC720 (720p). I can see pixels with some onscreen text, but outside of that I don't notice it much. Works great with TV & movies . As far as games....I'm not really a gamer, but have played a little bit and can say that I got motion sickness when playing a FPS game on my screen. I zoomed the image down in size when gaming.




As far as the anamorphic lens fraisa is talking about, I Googled last night and it appears that it lists for $2,995.


----------



## Chad T




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlj93byu* /forum/post/19699016
> 
> 
> Had this installed this morning at my dad's house. The specialists who installed it said picture quality via component wouldn't be any less than using HDMI and so they only hooked it up via component. My father's screen is 123" diagonal. On a screen this size, wouldn't there be a noticeable difference by using a HDMI instead of component cable? I'm thinking of hopping over to Monoprice and grabbing a 30 ft. HDMI. Indeed, component can only transmit 1080i instead of 1080p, hence I'm thinking there will be a difference on such a large screen.



I've ran both component and HDMI with my cable DVR and can't tell any differences. But I would go with HDMI for the simplicity. Also, most players won't upscale DVD with component. I believe component cables actually can carry a 1080p signal (if the equipment will let it), but it's the RCA connectors that are the weak link.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad T* /forum/post/19699386
> 
> 
> Goodness, this thread is newb city. Don't recall this level and extent of ongoing newbness in any other thread in my AVS tenure. Just glad to see folks getting into front projection, though! The 8350 has clearly been a hit.
> 
> 
> As far as choosing a screen size, check out this link:
> 
> http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html
> 
> 
> That provides some guidelines, but it's still very subjective. I'd recommend getting some blackout cloth or something similar so you can experiment with various screen sizes to see what your eyes like before committing $ to a screen purchase.
> 
> 
> I have a 107" 16:9 screen and my viewing distance is 10.5'. Projector is an Epson HC720 (720p). I can see pixels with some onscreen text, but outside of that I don't notice it much. Works great with TV & movies . As far as games....I'm not really a gamer, but have played a little bit and can say that I got motion sickness when playing a FPS game on my screen. I zoomed the image down in size when gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the anamorphic lens fraisa is talking about, I Googled last night and it appears that it lists for $2,995.



double check pretty sure thats for a fixed one...

which stays infront and no movement....


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19693509
> 
> 
> Its eazy to zoom it to that size its a pain in the *zz if you move it to a different aspect ratio...
> *ALso it would drive me absolutly nuts to have those black bars overspilling on my wall*
> 
> but for some its a non issue
> 
> Hopfully that clears up what i was trying to say.....
> 
> 
> Again if it was me I would do the 2:35 Right and get an Anamphoric Lens Add on that can go from 2:35 to 16x9 with ease...
> 
> But thats me ( Remember i am a Epson Dealer so I love to sell the add on lens....lol)



If your walls are white, you will see the gray bars, but if your walls are dark, you will not see them. That is the whole point. Most people doing the poor man's CIH set up their rooms to get rid of the gray bars. In other words they paint their walls dark. Other wise why bother since the whole purpose of CIH is to get rid of the bars along with the large screen.


----------



## kjr39

Oh yeah. Total noob when it comes to projectors... Absolutely appreciate the opinions that y'all are sharing.


Had a 'why didn't I think of that' moment when someone mentioned buying the projector first and displaying it on a sheet. I think I'll go that route...


/high five


----------



## the-pred

Got my new 8350. I read about the red haze problem on them but I rolled the dice. NO LUCK! Mine has a red haze running all the way down the right side, its a berfect line staright down, about 1 inch. Has anyone called Epson on this issue? What are they saying? Would hate to pay shipping to exchange the unit.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19698936
> 
> 
> Yes it shows up on the paper.
> 
> 
> Epson suggested leaving a solid white background projecting for 2 hours. My problem isnt blacks burned in however, its white pixels.
> 
> 
> Think I should try a solid black image? The guy at epson was reading from a book and wasnt very knowledgeable



get the Disney WOW Bluray and run the pixel flipper. that should fix it. if not I would do the warranty route

if you contrast is not set correctly you could have white clipping... also explained on the disk


----------



## soutthpaw

My projector is mounted upside down from the ceiling and I am noticing after a few days the image has dropped a couple of inches down the screen. both the horizontal and vertical shift dials have some significant amount of play in them (prob about an inch of movement before the affect the movement of the displayed image...


Is this normal or do I need to go exchange the unit???


----------



## rcliff

Anyone seen any ~$1000 deals on this like there were around Thanksgiving?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19700197
> 
> 
> Got my new 8350. I read about the red haze problem on them but I rolled the dice. NO LUCK! Mine has a red haze running all the way down the right side, its a berfect line staright down, about 1 inch. Has anyone called Epson on this issue? What are they saying? Would hate to pay shipping to exchange the unit.



Doesn't sound like a red haze issue but may be a bad convergence issue.


Call Epson.

They should ship you a replacement and then you send back you bad one free of charge.


----------



## audioadrenaline

fraisa, I appreciate your senior member status and all, but your grammar makes your posts borderline cryptic. Also, if you're an owner of the 9700ub, why are you posting on the 8350 thread? Congratulations on your 9700ub, anamorphic lens and your black diamond. This is not the place to boast to us 8350 people how superior your equipment is. If you have something to contribute to this thread, by all means, your input is welcome, but this is no place for self-justification of your purchases.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My projector is mounted upside down from the ceiling and I am noticing after a few days the image has dropped a couple of inches down the screen. both the horizontal and vertical shift dials have some significant amount of play in them (prob about an inch of movement before the affect the movement of the displayed image...
> 
> 
> Is this normal or do I need to go exchange the unit???



Someone else had this problem earlier. Believe they trimmed the yellow safety foam that came shipped around the lense until it was snug and held the lens in the correct position. Mine personally has a lot of play too. Once I got the settings right I taped the rollers in place so it won't move. Has done the job so far. Guess you can't have it all in this price range. I would try and rig something up to keep the lens from moving as it seems it's just the way these units are built.


----------



## dswdallas

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buster6070* 
Anybody self calibrated their 8350? I'm close to 100 hours on the bulb and was looking at the Disney WOW. This is my first projector though so I have a few questions.


1. Do you have to go through every color mode (dynamic, cinema, etc.) and calibrate one at a time? I'm guessing yes, but just checking.


2. How long did it take you?


3. If you calibrate each color mode, won't that kind of defeat the purpose of having different color modes? Won't they all just turn out looking the same with the same brightness?


4. Would a lower end model like our 8350 be worth the money hiring somebody to calibrate?


Just curious about this stuff, especially the time part. I'm only home a few days a week and spending a few days calibrating would be killer to me. Might be better to have someone come in and do it.
Just finished posting my experience on using the WOW disk on a JVC HD250. Would expect similar results with the 8350. Bottom line, get the disk and let it walk you thru the process. Very easy, anyone can do it (I got through the beginner and advanced calibrations in about 1.5 hrs, taking my time and having fun.) And then watch some more movies/sports/games.


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dswdallas* 
Just finished posting my experience on using the WOW disk on a JVC HD250. Would expect similar results with the 8350. Bottom line, get the disk and let it walk you thru the process. Very easy, anyone can do it (I got through the beginner and advanced calibrations in about 1.5 hrs, taking my time and having fun.) And then watch some more movies/sports/games.
Did you use the blue colour filter that came with the disc...?


----------



## dswdallas

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dswdallas* 
Just finished posting my experience on using the WOW disk on a JVC HD250. Would expect similar results with the 8350. Bottom line, get the disk and let it walk you thru the process. Very easy, anyone can do it (I got through the beginner and advanced calibrations in about 1.5 hrs, taking my time and having fun.) And then watch some more movies/sports/games.
I did all my adjustments and saved them to "User 1", one of 3 user defined buttons.

I left all the others alone. I will use User 1 for movies and probably Dynamic (one of the other modes) for sports, etc (its a little brighter for some ambient lights that you might want to have on for games/company).


----------



## buster6070

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dswdallas*
Just finished posting my experience on using the WOW disk on a JVC HD250. Would expect similar results with the 8350. Bottom line, get the disk and let it walk you thru the process. Very easy, anyone can do it (I got through the beginner and advanced calibrations in about 1.5 hrs, taking my time and having fun.) And then watch some more movies/sports/games.
Man, that completely slipped my mind. Forgot there were empy slots to save a custom configuration. Thanks for reminding. Guess I will order the disc. Then like you said back to movies and games. No sports worth watching right now down here in Houston. Thanks


----------



## Marty D.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rcliff* 
Anyone seen any ~$1000 deals on this like there were around Thanksgiving?
If you are near an HHGregg, they should negotiate close to the thanksgiving price. I got them down to $1099. In fact, I would try to negotiate this anywhere. These days, everything seems to be negotiable with regard to price.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I have the same issue and its VERY FRUSTRATING. My 8350 is also ceiling mounted upside down and my lens also keeps shifting down. At first i thought it was bcause i always hit the main switch on the back of the projector to fully turn it off after i hit the power button on remote twice. When i hit the switch theres a little movement by the projector so a couple days ago i bought a surge protector so i can turn it off with that instead of on the back. But a few days later it still moves so now i know its the lens and it makes me mad that it moves. When i turn it on i have to adjust the image and pisses me off. So since im not the only one; if anybody has the best proventative answer for this let us know. THANKS GUYS


----------



## CgMand

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt*
i have the same issue and its very frustrating. My 8350 is also ceiling mounted upside down and my lens also keeps shifting down. At first i thought it was bcause i always hit the main switch on the back of the projector to fully turn it off after i hit the power button on remote twice. When i hit the switch theres a little movement by the projector so a couple days ago i bought a surge protector so i can turn it off with that instead of on the back. But a few days later it still moves so now i know its the lens and it makes me mad that it moves. When i turn it on i have to adjust the image and pisses me off. So since im not the only one; if anybody has the best proventative answer for this let us know. Thanks guys
o


----------



## fraisa

Just wanted to wish everyone in this thread a Merry Christmas.

Fraisa


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19696061
> 
> 
> thats my point to do true 2:35 and do it right you cant do it with a 8350..
> 
> YOu need to get a projector that supports the addon lens...
> 
> 9700 ub....



Not picking on ya Fraisa (I don't have issues with your posts), but to say you can't use the 8350 I think is a stretch.


I think "right" depends on what one wants to do. You can use a video processor and any pj you want. I was doing 2.35 CH with a Panny AE900 until I got the 8350. My "right" was leaving the a-lens in place all the time and letting the video processor handle the required scaling. Someone else might want to use a sled to move the lens for 16x9 content. All depends...


Check out the _2.35:1 Constant Image Height Chat_ forum for more info, even if you're on a budget


----------



## Andy238




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19701010
> 
> 
> I have the same issue and its VERY FRUSTRATING. My 8350 is also ceiling mounted upside down and my lens also keeps shifting down. At first i thought it was bcause i always hit the main switch on the back of the projector to fully turn it off after i hit the power button on remote twice. When i hit the switch theres a little movement by the projector so a couple days ago i bought a surge protector so i can turn it off with that instead of on the back. But a few days later it still moves so now i know its the lens and it makes me mad that it moves. When i turn it on i have to adjust the image and pisses me off. So since im not the only one; if anybody has the best proventative answer for this let us know. THANKS GUYS



My 8350 is right-side up and does it too. A piece of tape over the dial works fine. I used painters tape so not to leave a sticky mess later.


----------



## dswdallas

Yes, it's supposed to be very accurate.


----------



## dswdallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19700745
> 
> 
> Did you use the blue colour filter that came with the disc...?



Sorry, Yes I did use the filter.


----------



## motorcitymancave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *motorcitymancave* /forum/post/19692365
> 
> 
> I have reviewed this forum to help decide on purchasing the Epson 8350. I will say that the 1080 HD broadcasts look great(Cable box, Motorola DCX3400. Excellent detail, color, brightness and black levels.
> 
> 
> I do have two issues of great concern:
> 
> 
> 1) When watching any Standard definition(480 i or p) the image is horrible, it appears out of focus and grainy/jagged edges. I am not sure if this projectors scaling is the problem....on my old Infocus IN72 the same broadcasts were much better, clearer, and in focus. Does anyone have any input or advice on watching standard definition content. I also plugged in an Svideo output from my dvd player and same thing, picture just looked poor, a bit better than from the cable box, but still seemed out of focus. Likewise the image on the from the dvd on my Infocus IN72 actually looked pretty darn good.
> 
> 
> Will a better upscaling method help, ie. from a receiver with upscaling to 1080p..better scaling software?? Are there any settings to consider to help correct.
> 
> 
> 2) When watching sports in 1080i from the cable box, the picture is very good quality, but with very fast motion, the image/player seems to blurr with a digital aspect, hard to explain...never saw this with my dlp projectors. Is this something with this projector or could it be my cable box Motorola DCX3400 output at 1080i.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions, comments would help.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Motorcitymancave





Well I programmed the cable box to only output 1080i and that has helped significantly, the image appears better and no longer have to deal with the delays from the projector while switching between 480 and 1080i output.


I did email Epson support and they did suggest the following:

_Try turning off the Progressive setting In the Signal Menu for viewing fast movement., and for viewing SD content, the Progressive setting should be on...._


Will give it a try and let you all know if it helps.


Any other suggestions are welcome.


Thanks again,

Motorcitymancave


----------



## Evolvo

Does anyone know whats the max screen size you should go with this projector. I know that it says you can go up to 200 but this is probably not optimal. I'm thinking of going with a 135" Elite screen and wondering would it degrade the quality of the image alot.


Also over at projector central which has by far the best projector distance calculator out there, cause it uses manufacturer provided info to calculate everything, they only let me take the epson projector to 128" and I'm wondering if that's because they believe the projector to only be able to do up to 128" in decent quality and then maybe it gets hazy there.


Please let me know, thanks.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *motorcitymancave* /forum/post/19702417
> 
> 
> Well I programmed the cable box to only output 1080i and that has helped significantly, the image appears better and no longer have to deal with the delays from the projector while switching between 480 and 1080i output.
> 
> 
> I did email Epson support and they did suggest the following:
> 
> _Try turning off the Progressive setting In the Signal Menu for viewing fast movement., and for viewing SD content, the Progressive setting should be on...._
> 
> 
> Will give it a try and let you all know if it helps.
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions are welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Motorcitymancave



I found that rescaling delay each time i changed channel really annoying too. I found if aspect ratio is set to "original" you get the delay as it rescales each time you flip from an SD to an HD broadcast. if you set to wide the delay doesn't happen. also there is a motion setting that may help with fast motion blur. From playing games with it I have not noticed and lag or blur.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19700264
> 
> 
> My projector is mounted upside down from the ceiling and I am noticing after a few days the image has dropped a couple of inches down the screen. both the horizontal and vertical shift dials have some significant amount of play in them (prob about an inch of movement before the affect the movement of the displayed image...
> 
> 
> Is this normal or do I need to go exchange the unit???



Normal due to "as designed"









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049 


.


----------



## Ix

Trim the yellow foam guard that it ships with, use it to hold the lens once you have it dialed in, problem solved. I half-suspect that foam guard is part of the problem; I was worried I was going to break the damn lens getting it off mine. I was real careful though, and even though mine is mounted upside down from the ceiling I haven't seen this problem, yet.


Should it be like this? No. Weighed against all the other positives this $1,000+/- PJ brings to the table is it a deal breaker? Not in my opinion. If this is the worst thing about this PJ I'll take it. I haven't been this smugly pleased with a technology purchase in years.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlj93byu* /forum/post/19699016
> 
> 
> Had this installed this morning at my dad's house. The specialists who installed it said picture quality via component wouldn't be any less than using HDMI and so they only hooked it up via component. My father's screen is 123" diagonal. On a screen this size, wouldn't there be a noticeable difference by using a HDMI instead of component cable? I'm thinking of hopping over to Monoprice and grabbing a 30 ft. HDMI. Indeed, component can only transmit 1080i instead of 1080p, hence I'm thinking there will be a difference on such a large screen.



Whoever installed that for you is no professional if that's the feedback they gave you. Let me guess, they didn't have an HDMI cable on hand (surprising, since they usually mark those up) and so by default it "didn't matter".


Is there a difference between 1080p and 1080i? Absolutely. A huge one. Very few cable/satellite providers offer true 1080p content at the moment, so it's true that for those sources and regular DVD you probably won't notice a difference. For Blu Ray players and HD content off an HTPC you absolutely will. And if you ever upgrade your sound system to handle HD sound like DD+, etc you will need HDMI just for that. Then there's the whole HDCP copy protection mess and the expected short lifespan of the "analog hole" that allows non protected HD content over analog connections.


Yeah, if I were you I'd install an HDMI cable. You can use the component cable they installed to fish it through. Then try to get your money back from that installer.


----------



## fraisa

Is anyone using this along with a Yamaha A-1000 or A-2000 Receiver?


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19703407
> 
> 
> Is anyone using this along with a Yamaha A-1000 or A-2000 Receiver?



I'm using it with an A2000.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

For the component vs HDMI question, the installers should have used HDMI for various reasons, but it's not true that 1080i vs 1080p usually makes a difference to the picture quality. When the source is HD TV it's only 1080i anyway, hence no difference. And when the source is a Blu-ray movie at 1080p it can be transmitted as 1080i with no loss of information (the display or receiver should reconstruct each original frame from two fields, although not all devices may do it correctly).


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azereus* /forum/post/19703437
> 
> 
> I'm using it with an A2000.



If you are using HDMI,

could you go to the info screen on your projector

under source does it say HDMI or Component?


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/19703501
> 
> 
> For the component vs HDMI question, the installers should have used HDMI for various reasons, but it's not true that 1080i vs 1080p usually makes a difference to the picture quality. When the source is HD TV it's only 1080i anyway, hence no difference. And when the source is a Blu-ray movie at 1080p it can be transmitted as 1080i with no loss of information (the display or receiver should reconstruct each original frame from two fields, although not all devices may do it correctly).



I do see a difference with 1080i vs 1080p when playing games of my PS3.. distant targets seem to stand out much better when progressive


----------



## kriktsemaj99

If a source can generate 1080p60 then you'll definitely lose something transmitting it as 1080i, but that doesn't apply to HD TV and Blu-ray movies. The earlier post seemed to be implying that anyone using a component connection would see a huge improvement by moving to HDMI, which is not true. But to cover all bases, the installers should certainly have used HDMI.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/19703744
> 
> 
> If a source can generate 1080p60 then you'll definitely lose something transmitting it as 1080i, but that doesn't apply to HD TV and Blu-ray movies.



IIRC, you also can not take advantage of 1080p/24fps blu-ray using Component. Using 1080p @ 24fps output via HDMI output on a blu-ray player appears to make the PQ have some 'pop' on the 8350.

You also might not be able to upconvert DVD to 1080p using Component depending on the player.


Also,

Component = analog

HDMI = digital


----------



## wickedg8gt

I posted something about noise/graininess with live action films with the 8350 several pages back but i bought the movie Step Up 3 on blu ray yesterday and watched it last nite and not a single bit of graininess anywhere and picture looks crystal clear and super duper bad @$$


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19703861
> 
> 
> I posted something about noise/graininess with live action films with the 8350 several pages back but i bought the movie Step Up 3 on blu ray yesterday and watched it last nite and not a single bit of graininess anywhere and picture looks crystal clear and super duper bad @$$



Some movies, old and new are meant to have grain. It depends on the medium used to film the movie.

I just watched Fred Claus on blu-ray and that movie has a lot of grain and is not clear at times but it's the movie, not the projector.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider* /forum/post/19400892
> 
> 
> I've got about 35 hours on my 8350. I don't have any complaints. It did give me an error message once at start-up saying there was something wrong with the Auto-Iris, but I've only seen that error once. I will keep an eye on it. Has anyone else seen that error?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jakejj* /forum/post/19557555
> 
> 
> I have an 8350 that is a week old with approximately 19 hours on the lamp. I went to fire it up last night and there was an error message being displayed on the screen indicating that there is a problem with the Auto Iris and to turn off the projector and call your Epson Dealer/ Service Center. Has anyone else had this issue?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/19559960
> 
> 
> Happened to me once with about 30 hours on the clock. I unplugged / plugged in, and hasn't occurred again.
> 
> 
> edit-
> 
> If it happens again, I'll call. Otherwise, this makes me feel good about the 2 year warranty. I'm not going to jump the gun for one snafu.
> 
> 
> John F



*I hope we aren't exposing a defect or bug.



I've got 80 hrs on the 8350 and got this error twice so far.

Once around 60 hours and again at 77.



*My Auto Iris is Off


When you get this error, the blue screen is bright with the error box displayed. Appears the iris is stuck fully open.

You are forced to turn off the projector. When you turn it off, the lamp goes off and then the fan kicks in to high mode for about 1 minute then turns off.

Resolution: Unplug power from it for about a minute & wait 10 minutes to turn it back on appears to make the error go away.


----------



## azereus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19703510
> 
> 
> If you are using HDMI,
> 
> could you go to the info screen on your projector
> 
> under source does it say HDMI or Component?



I am using HDMI.


Source says "HDMI1"

Input Signal says "Component"


Seems a little odd to me...


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19703510
> 
> 
> If you are using HDMI,
> 
> could you go to the info screen on your projector
> 
> under source does it say HDMI or Component?



Guys, please do a search on this very thread. This is normal for this projector according to Epson.


----------



## warpdrive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19704236
> 
> 
> *I hope we aren't exposing a defect or bug.
> 
> 
> When you get this error, the blue screen is bright with the error box displayed. Appears the iris is stuck fully open.
> 
> You are forced to turn off the projector. When you turn it off, the lamp goes off and then the fan kicks in to high mode for about 1 minute then turns off.
> 
> Resolution: Unplug power from it for about a minute & wait 10 minutes to turn it back on appears to make the error go away.



My 8700 has this error, it doesn't go away even if I unplug it. I am getting a replacement.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19704650
> 
> 
> Guys, please do a search on this very thread. This is normal for this projector according to Epson.



Ya just wanted to get verification of this,

All units 8350, 8700,9700 all report in the info using HDMI

that the source is Component...

Weird


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpdrive* /forum/post/19704688
> 
> 
> My 8700 has this error, it doesn't go away even if I unplug it. I am getting a replacement.



That's the same message I've seen twice.

Powering off the player, unplugging for about a minute, wait 10 minutes and powering on has solved the issue so far.

If it happens again in the near future, I will probably request a replacement.


It seems this issue is not isolated to the 8350.


----------



## jpbledsoe

We installed our Da-Lite Da-Snap with the HCCV screen (110" diagonal) in our auditorium 2 days ago. I was surprised at how "white" the screen appears. All descriptions refer to it as a light gray screen; our screen is closer to eggshell in color.


I'm dissapointed with the contrast in low ambient light conditions, which lends further evidence to having the wrong screen. With all the problems we've had ordering AV parts recently, it wouldn't surprise me if they sent the wrong screen along with the frame. I double checked the overall part number...I ordered and paid for a screen with HCCV fabric.


I should have looked for a part number on the screen fabric. I'll look tomorrow and contact Da-Lite to determine what we have.


I'll post images of our screen (and other facets of our 8350 AV installation) in the next day or two.


Meanwhile, if anyone can direct me to images of HCCV fabric, I'd appreciate it very much. I can't find any on the Da-Lite website.


If there's a better AVS forum for this discussion, let me know. I couldn't find a screen forum but might have overlooked it.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## jpbledsoe

Here's one image of HCCV fabric; it's a lot darker than our screen:

http://www.av-outlet.com/media/HCCV-L.jpg 


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/19705971
> 
> 
> We installed our Da-Lite Da-Snap with the HCCV screen (110" diagonal) in our auditorium 2 days ago. I was surprised at how "white" the screen appears. All descriptions refer to it as a light gray screen; our screen is closer to eggshell in color.
> 
> 
> I'm dissapointed with the contrast in low ambient light conditions, which lends further evidence to having the wrong screen. With all the problems we've had ordering AV parts recently, it wouldn't surprise me if they sent the wrong screen along with the frame. I double checked the overall part number...I ordered and paid for a screen with HCCV fabric.
> 
> 
> I should have looked for a part number on the screen fabric. I'll look tomorrow and contact Da-Lite to determine what we have.
> 
> 
> I'll post images of our screen (and other facets of our 8350 AV installation) in the next day or two.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, if anyone can direct me to images of HCCV fabric, I'd appreciate it very much. I can't find any on the Da-Lite website.
> 
> 
> If there's a better AVS forum for this discussion, let me know. I couldn't find a screen forum but might have overlooked it.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=23


----------



## jpbledsoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19706191
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=23





Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/19705979
> 
> 
> Here's one image of HCCV fabric; it's a lot darker than our screen:
> 
> http://www.av-outlet.com/media/HCCV-L.jpg
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Dark? Hmmmmmm....







Must be under Flash.










I seriously doubt that your going to be in the mood to spend what will be needed to acquire the type Mfg screen that would make a significant difference. In such a venue, where a wide viewing cone, brightness and contrast are all desired, any Mfg Screen that does one thing well, seldom does others nearly so. Those that do...well, you have to really ante up for that type of performance in a Mfg Screen. Like 6x your current budget!


Your looking for something you can find on the DIY Screen Forum. You could use the existing Screen as a Canvas...or get help making something a long the order of 122" diagonal Fixed, w 1.4 Gain and a shade of Gray about 3x as dark as your example. All that for under $250.00 absolute top end limit. Maybe $100.00 less.


122" ultra-high contrast w/gain + the 8350 = multi-purpose High Performance Screen w/Sizzle factor viewable from all locations.


But one thing not alluded to is your Throw Distance. Is it fixed in Stone? If your 8350 PJ can be placed at 12.4", with 27 fls hitting a 1.3 gain High Contrast Gray that has both Angular and Retro-Reflective properties, it is going to exhibit exceptional performance under really adverse lighting. Under moderate or lower ambient, it will excel.


But you cannot handicap the PJ or Screen by not optimizing the throw distance when significant ambient light is to be dealt with. No matter what Screen is employed, if the Foot Candle intensity of incoming adverse light exceeds the reflected Foot Lamberts intensity of the Projected light by more than 30% of the PJ's output, the Screen will wash out. That's a given.


So you need a surface that retains gain while boosting perceived Black Levels through selective attenuation.


Do you want to know more?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110


----------



## andymnfun

Does anyone have any insight to how an Epson 8350 would look in comparison to a Panasonic G15 Plasma? Whenever I go to movie theaters and watch TV soon after, I notice that the movie theater seems much more real in comparison to the TV. Do these projectors add some realisim that I find missing on the Panasonic G15 plasma?


----------



## newfmp3

I never got my pj yet thanks to it not being in stock, Add in the fact that it's Xmas and the thing won't even ship until Jan 3rd.


So, I've got lots of time to plan and maybe rethink my setup.


I want the optimal position for the pj. My existing screen is 110" and pj is.a 4805 with 16' throw. Seating is at 11.5 and 17'. Screen is da lite hp.


Wondering if I should move it a little closer, lessen zooming as much as possible or zoom a little, Etc. Any Opinions? What's the sweet spot for this lens\\zoom and throw distance?


Thanks.


----------



## warpdrive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19705221
> 
> 
> That's the same message I've seen twice.
> 
> Powering off the player, unplugging for about a minute, wait 10 minutes and powering on has solved the issue so far.
> 
> If it happens again in the near future, I will probably request a replacement.
> 
> 
> It seems this issue is not isolated to the 8350.



Yeah, mine never recovered. I unplugged it overnight and same error.


Mine made a weird clunking noise, compared to the motor whir that you normally hear.


I think somehow the iris gets stuck.


----------



## warpdrive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andymnfun* /forum/post/19707883
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any insight to how an Epson 8350 would look in comparison to a Panasonic G15 Plasma? Whenever I go to movie theaters and watch TV soon after, I notice that the movie theater seems much more real in comparison to the TV. Do these projectors add some realisim that I find missing on the Panasonic G15 plasma?



I have a V10 Plasma and I think my 8700 projector kills it in wow factor as long as you have a room that can be light controlled, and you have the proper screen material for your needs, the 8350 should provide similar feeling (with very slightly less good blacks, but still very enjoyable)


The main reason is the size, if you position your seating distance such that it mostly fills your field of view, you will get much of that same feeling you get at the theater.


For seating distance, use this calculator such as http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html , enter your screen width or screen size, and hit calculate, and choose the seating distance recommended by THX or SMTPE


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpdrive* /forum/post/19708143
> 
> 
> I have a V10 Plasma and I think my 8700 projector kills it in wow factor as long as you have a room that can be light controlled, and you have the proper screen material for your needs, the 8350 should provide similar feeling (with very slightly less good blacks, but still very enjoyable)
> 
> 
> The main reason is the size, if you position your seating distance such that it mostly fills your field of view, you will get much of that same feeling you get at the theater.
> 
> 
> For seating distance, use this calculator such as http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html , enter your screen width or screen size, and hit calculate, and choose the seating distance recommended by THX or SMTPE



what kinda screen do u use?


----------



## warpdrive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/19708379
> 
> 
> what kinda screen do u use?



I have a Draper with M1300 material but I would use a high contrast grey if I had an 8350


----------



## Tolkien

Set up the projector last night guys... amazing! Just a few questions...


1) I played some movies off of my harddrive and man do they LOOK TERRIBLE. Is this normal? They are extremely pixelated. The only way I got good quality is off playing some of my Blu-Ray Discs.... anyone else suffering from this problem?


2) I have the monoprice mount and after mounting to the ceiling... the projector still moves around (side to side) and is unstable... for example if i was to just tap the hdmi cable, the projector shakes... is this normal? I though the mount could support the projector and not allow it to move it at all... should I be looking for a different projector?


Thanks guys!


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Tolkien* 
Set up the projector last night guys... amazing! Just a few questions...


1) I played some movies off of my harddrive and man do they LOOK TERRIBLE. Is this normal? They are extremely pixelated. The only way I got good quality is off playing some of my Blu-Ray Discs.... anyone else suffering from this problem?


2) I have the monoprice mount and after mounting to the ceiling... the projector still moves around (side to side) and is unstable... for example if i was to just tap the hdmi cable, the projector shakes... is this normal? I though the mount could support the projector and not allow it to move it at all... should I be looking for a different projector?


Thanks guys!
For playing movies off your harddrive,,

I use a Popcorn Hour 200 unit and i can play dvd rips with no pixelization...


Regarding the mount double check if all bolts are tight,

if they are ,,, you need to get a new mount...


Again I use the Pro 800 Series Epson Ceiling Mount

And have No Issues with regards to Movement or Shaking...

Center of the mount is into a stud...

...


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Tolkien* 
Set up the projector last night guys... amazing! Just a few questions...


1) I played some movies off of my harddrive and man do they LOOK TERRIBLE. Is this normal? They are extremely pixelated. The only way I got good quality is off playing some of my Blu-Ray Discs.... anyone else suffering from this problem?


2) I have the monoprice mount and after mounting to the ceiling... the projector still moves around (side to side) and is unstable... for example if i was to just tap the hdmi cable, the projector shakes... is this normal? I though the mount could support the projector and not allow it to move it at all... should I be looking for a different projector? a turnbuckle would work too though not sure if the threads are metric or standard...


Thanks guys!
The movement of the mount is going to always be a problem with mount that has a single connection point to the ceiling or projector. thus why I built my own.. and the fact I am poor, had all the materials already...  notice 2 points of attachment on both ceiling and projector. far apart as possible from each other. also I have 2x6 lumber between the joists that its bolted to. it your mount is not attached to a joist in the ceiling it will never be motionless


Oh I just had an idea, if you can unscrew the two front "feet" and replace with threaded rod and put rubber caps over the end you could then screw them out to stabilize it against the ceiling and thus you would have 3 points of stabilization on projector and on the ceiling.... PM me if you are not following the description


----------



## the-pred

Here is a picture of the read line I have running down the right side of screen. Was wondering if this was teh red blur people are talking about, or is this a problem only my 8350 has?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolkien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Set up the projector last night guys... amazing! Just a few questions...
> 
> 
> 1) I played some movies off of my harddrive and man do they LOOK TERRIBLE. Is this normal? They are extremely pixelated. The only way I got good quality is off playing some of my Blu-Ray Discs.... anyone else suffering from this problem?
> 
> 
> 2) I have the monoprice mount and after mounting to the ceiling... the projector still moves around (side to side) and is unstable... for example if i was to just tap the hdmi cable, the projector shakes... is this normal? I though the mount could support the projector and not allow it to move it at all... should I be looking for a different projector?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!



Is this your first 1080p tv\\ or projector? Are you viewing ripped 480p or less content?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19709162
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the read line I have running down the right side of screen. Was wondering if this was teh red blur people are talking about, or is this a problem only my 8350 has?



That is not the red haze some are talking about.

I would take your projector back to the store for an exchange or call Epson for an exchange.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19709161
> 
> 
> The movement of the mount is going to always be a problem with mount that has a single connection point to the ceiling or projector. thus why I built my own.. and the fact I am poor, had all the materials already...  notice 2 points of attachment on both ceiling and projector. far apart as possible from each other. also I have 2x6 lumber between the joists that its bolted to. it your mount is not attached to a joist in the ceiling it will never be motionless
> 
> 
> Oh I just had an idea, if you can unscrew the two front "feet" and replace with threaded rod and put rubber caps over the end you could then screw them out to stabilize it against the ceiling and thus you would have 3 points of stabilization on projector and on the ceiling.... PM me if you are not following the description




SouthPaw thumbs up for the DIY Mount..

But thats plain Ugly...To Each There own...

Also your mount looks really dirty and dusty

I really would be concerned with Elements getting inside the unit,

You can only push a filter so far...

Thats my 2 cents...


Here is how i do my outlets,,

Doing it this way you dont risk getting elements in your filter...


----------



## below90hz

Question:


I've had my 8350 for several weeks now, and tonight when i muted the sound the fan sounded really loud. I thought the wife accidentally changed the lamp to "normal" but it was still at "ECO". And it is definitely louder than it was when i first put it up. I've got 89hours on it. Is this normal?


----------



## athelaw915

Hi all, I was finally got my epson 8350 today from winning the auction on ebay. total came out to be $1165 shipped. still a little cheaper than all the online stores. It is a brand new one sealed in the box. I have a question though, since I purchased it on ebay, is the warranty still the same as if I bought it in the store or online store? thank you


----------



## EJ

I've noticed Amazon and Projector People are currently out of stock. Does anyone know when they might be readily available?


----------



## seraphus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19712824
> 
> 
> Hi all, I was finally got my epson 8350 today from winning the auction on ebay. total came out to be $1165 shipped. still a little cheaper than all the online stores. It is a brand new one sealed in the box. I have a question though, since I purchased it on ebay, is the warranty still the same as if I bought it in the store or online store? thank you



I believe it is not as Epson requires original proof of purchase from a retail/authorized dealer (some eBay sellers are). This is one reason why many people would avoid by expensive electronics new or used on eBay. However, I don't have any first hand experience on how lenient Epson is with their warranties.


----------



## andrios

Has anyone changed filter or bulb yet?


----------



## Quick Hands

Wow and thank you is all I can say. Thanks to everyone on this forum and specifically in this thread I am the proud new owner of an 8350!!









I was shopping Christmas Eve BB guy says can I help you I say if you can get me an 8350 and panny bd85 under 11000 then yes and laugh to myself.

Then after talking to his manager he comes back and to me and my wallets surprise he says Yes!!!!1































































.

Now the question becomes how do I owner of a 51 in. CRTRPTV a 50 and 42 plasm 36 in crt and 32 in lcd with three sound systems and four dvd players explain why I need this to my lovely wife who I told I was shopping for others.









Thankfully she was in the Christmas spirit





















and allowed it without issue!!!

Fast forward to yesterday I start setting it up with high expectations from all the great things I hear about projectors on this board and project on to my white cinderblock wall




























. I just smiled it was better than I could of ever believed the picture clarity and resolution surpassed that of the 51 in. in the basement. Nirvana I sit in a amazement as I watch the Packers Giants game..


Next I call down my 19 yr. old son and watch the laughter and giddiness come over his face as he gazes upon 120 in of pure hi def goodness and hour or so passes and we hear the wife arrive back home he runs up to get her and the moment of truth is about to come.


Drumroll please as she walks down stairs and looks Holy S T!!!!! that pictures huge that looks amazing is that blue ray and I thought you told me you didn't buy a screen (man Smiles)!!!!




















































Sorry for the long post but I just had to tell my story and give BIG ups to everyone on this board!!!!!


----------



## Quick Hands

Before I get crushed I meant 1100. Now to go get the blue ray set up with Inception and Salt rated on this board as reference level brs and see what this puppy can really do!!!


Oh and any suggestion on a 120 in. fixed frame or manual pulldown screen for this in a light controlled basement 11 and 17 foot viewing distances 70% sports 15%movies and 15% tv and under 400 would be greatly appreciated from everything I read this is the most difficult decision. Again a 1000 thankyous!!!!!


----------



## Ilya




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/19709162
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the read line I have running down the right side of screen. Was wondering if this was teh red blur people are talking about, or is this a problem only my 8350 has?



No, the Red Haze issue is not visible on bright images at all. Only on very dark images and only if the auto-iris is not engaged.

What you have there is a defective unit, I am sorry to say. You better exchange it right away!


Speaking of the Red Haze. No, it doesn't go away with time, in case someone is wondering. I am getting close to 500 hours on my lamp and the issue is still there. If anything, I am just getting used to it, trying to not pay attention to it. It doesn't bother me that much. Most probably don't even notice it. But it's still there if I look for it.


----------



## Ilya




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ilya* /forum/post/19713634
> 
> 
> What you have there is a defective unit, I am sorry to say. You better exchange it right away!



Actually, before you exchange it, make sure to confirm that the problem is not caused by your video source.

Do you see the same problem when watching Blu-ray or DVD?


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19713577
> 
> 
> Before I get crushed I meant 1100. Now to go get the blue ray set up with Inception and Salt rated on this board as reference level brs and see what this puppy can really do!!!
> 
> 
> Oh and any suggestion on a 120 in. fixed frame or manual pulldown screen for this in a light controlled basement 11 and 17 foot viewing distances 70% sports 15%movies and 15% tv and under 400 would be greatly appreciated from everything I read this is the most difficult decision. Again a 1000 thankyous!!!!!



if you have a good controlled light basement then you can do very well with one of the DIY screen options. see the DIY section in the screen forum. I did the DoAble board from HD but that limits you to about a 100 inch screen as you will have a seam if you use more that 1 piece. but there are 1/2 a dozen other options too. as you are already impressed with the picture I think a DIY screen will do you fine unless the boss is willing to let you spend on a fancy screen


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19712824
> 
> 
> Hi all, I was finally got my epson 8350 today from winning the auction on ebay. total came out to be $1165 shipped. still a little cheaper than all the online stores. It is a brand new one sealed in the box. I have a question though, since I purchased it on ebay, is the warranty still the same as if I bought it in the store or online store? thank you



Big mistake if the seller is not an authorized Epson dealer. some even say they are when they are not. check with Epson first. you may save $100 or so but you will be screwed if you need to take advantage of the warranty... I agree with the other poster about this... its better to spend a little extra and buy from a reliable source.. I got mine for $1199 from best buy on sale and yes I paid tax too but also got the $239 warranty for 4 years which includes 1 free bulb replacement. also 3 yrs 0% financing which as I didn't have the cash available to buy outright it was the clincher for me. figure the reward point dollars and its not such a bad deal

Just read the warranty and it does say "original retail purchaser" which you would obviously have to prove with a receipt from a retailer.


you could probably find one of the site sponsors to match that price any if you mention the forum was how you found them


----------



## Dan Hitchman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19709978
> 
> 
> Here is how i do my outlets,,
> 
> Doing it this way you dont risk getting elements in your filter...



Slick outlet! Mind telling us what the make and model is?


Thanks!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dan Hitchman* /forum/post/19716422
> 
> 
> Slick outlet! Mind telling us what the make and model is?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The Make is OnQ

and is sold at Lowes USA .....


----------



## N1GHTRA1N

What screen gain and size would you recommend for this projector with a room with some ambient light? I'm thinking 106" or 120" Seating area is about 14-16' from screen and projector will be ceiling mounted at 2' behind seating area (16-18'). I know nothing about screen gain. I dunno when to use 1.0, 0.8, 1.4, etc. Please help.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19717095
> 
> 
> What screen gain and size would you recommend for this projector with a room with some ambient light? I'm thinking 106" or 120" Seating area is about 14-16' from screen and projector will be ceiling mounted at 2' behind seating area (16-18'). I know nothing about screen gain. I dunno when to use 1.0, 0.8, 1.4, etc. Please help.



If you can afford it this projector looks amazing on a SI Black Diamond .8 - 1.4 gain...

ALso A Stewart Lexus Deluxe 1.3 gain Firehawk...


----------



## athelaw915




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19714737
> 
> 
> Big mistake if the seller is not an authorized Epson dealer. some even say they are when they are not. check with Epson first. you may save $100 or so but you will be screwed if you need to take advantage of the warranty... I agree with the other poster about this... its better to spend a little extra and buy from a reliable source.. I got mine for $1199 from best buy on sale and yes I paid tax too but also got the $239 warranty for 4 years which includes 1 free bulb replacement. also 3 yrs 0% financing which as I didn't have the cash available to buy outright it was the clincher for me. figure the reward point dollars and its not such a bad deal
> 
> Just read the warranty and it does say "original retail purchaser" which you would obviously have to prove with a receipt from a retailer.
> 
> 
> you could probably find one of the site sponsors to match that price any if you mention the forum was how you found them





Since I got it already, think its too late to regret it. just hope i wont have to use the warranty and if I do, then hopefully epson will work something out with me.







how reliable are these units? I read several users had problems with it and had to use the warranty. thank you


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19717095
> 
> 
> What screen gain and size would you recommend for this projector with a room with some ambient light? I'm thinking 106" or 120" Seating area is about 14-16' from screen and projector will be ceiling mounted at 2' behind seating area (16-18'). I know nothing about screen gain. I dunno when to use 1.0, 0.8, 1.4, etc. Please help.



A 120" diagonal 16:9 formatted Sintra Board spray painted with Silver Fire 3.0 will deliver everything you need in an ambient light screen for under a total of $250.00


Any Mfg version of the same ilk will (...if you can get one at 120"s) run in excess of $2600.00.


That's 10x as much.










For that matter, the 8350 is so adaptable, if you can instead move the PJ further forward int a more optimally suited Throw distance, you can accomplish wonders at any size between 120" (12' throw) , 110" (11' throw) or 106" diagonal (10' 8')...with the latter offering 28 foot lamberts of off-the-screen brightness.


Take my word for it...that's a lot! The accepted average is 15 fls.


If DIY isn't an option for you, then the much more expensive Mfg options can get it accomplished. But even so, do NOT design your Theater around criteria that works against performance.


Move the PJ up to within 10% of it's minimum throw distance for the given/chosen screen size.


Mount it as low toward the Screen as possible, which also means mount the Screen as high as possible.


Avoid placing lights that cast illumination directly onto the Screen at any dim-able setting. Use "Spot" lamps instead of Floods in all Can Lights.


Paint the Ceiling directly above the Projector a darker shade of a Flat Color (Gray/Blue/Green/Brown) If the Side walls are within 3-4 feet of the edge of the Screen...paint them as well.


Essentially, using either option, if you accommodate the strong points and avoid allowing the weak points any advantage, your gonna get your money's worth.


----------



## genmei888

You look awfully flushed to me. Is that a sniffle I hear...? A hacking cough...? gerat


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19717364
> 
> 
> Since I got it already, think its too late to regret it.



Nonsense. It's never too late for that!







Just fill out and send in the Warranty info. They'll probably give you special recognition for having done so!










In any case, it's akin to "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" Just Register and let them tell you if your SOL if and when something happens. You can't be worse off....only get luckier than you seem to be at present.


Happy New Year!


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19717375
> 
> 
> A 120" diagonal 16:9 formatted Sintra Board spray painted with Silver Fire 3.0 will deliver everything you need in an ambient light screen for under a total of $250.00
> 
> 
> Any Mfg version of the same ilk will (...if you can get one at 120"s) run in excess of $2600.00.
> 
> 
> That's 10x as much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For that matter, the 8350 is so adaptable, if you can instead move the PJ further forward int a more optimally suited Throw distance, you can accomplish wonders at any size between 120" (12' throw) , 110" (11' throw) or 106" diagonal (10' 8')...with the latter offering 28 foot lamberts of off-the-screen brightness.
> 
> 
> Take my word for it...that's a lot! The accepted average is 15 fls.
> 
> 
> If DIY isn't an option for you, then the much more expensive Mfg options can get it accomplished. But even so, do NOT design your Theater around criteria that works against performance.
> 
> 
> Move the PJ up to within 10% of it's minimum throw distance for the given/chosen screen size.
> 
> 
> Mount it as low toward the Screen as possible, which also means mount the Screen as high as possible.
> 
> 
> Avoid placing lights that cast illumination directly onto the Screen at any dim-able setting. Use "Spot" lamps instead of Floods in all Can Lights.
> 
> 
> Paint the Ceiling directly above the Projector a darker shade of a Flat Color (Gray/Blue/Green/Brown) If the Side walls are within 3-4 feet of the edge of the Screen...paint them as well.
> 
> 
> Essentially, using either option, if you accommodate the strong points and avoid allowing the weak points any advantage, your gonna get your money's worth.



So I should put the projector closer to the screen. I just assumed it would be better suited just behind the seating area. I'm painting all the walls in the rooms a medium grey (benjamin moore sweatshirt gray). The ceiling will be a matte white finish. Is that suitable? The room will be lighted by three rows of pot lights. Once behind the projector, one about 5-6 feet in front of the projector and one in front of the screen. Each row on its own dimmer switch, typical viewing will probably result in front and middle rows being off and back row on low output.


I'm considering a 120" or 106" EluneVision Elara II Perlux-Silver Fixed Frame Screen - 16:9 - 1.4 gain


Or


120" or 106" EluneVision High Definition Cinema Grey Fixed Frame Screen - 16:9 - 1.1 gain


Or


AccuScreen 106" Fixed-frame Projection Screen High-contrast Grey Material - 16:9 - 0.8 gain.


I may also consider a motorized or manual pull down screen from EluneVision too. I've read good things about them and they are priced right and shipping to Canada is good. I forgot to mention I'm in Canada.

Any opinions?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19717571
> 
> 
> So I should put the projector closer to the screen. I just assumed it would be better suited just behind the seating area. I'm painting all the walls in the rooms a medium grey (benjamin moore sweatshirt gray). The ceiling will be a matte white finish. Is that suitable? The room will be lighted by three rows of pot lights. Once behind the projector, one about 5-6 feet in front of the projector and one in front of the screen. Each row on its own dimmer switch, typical viewing will probably result in front and middle rows being off and back row on low output.
> 
> 
> I'm considering a 120" or 106" EluneVision Elara II Perlux-Silver Fixed Frame Screen - 16:9 - 1.4 gain
> 
> 
> Or
> 
> 
> 120" or 106" EluneVision High Definition Cinema Grey Fixed Frame Screen - 16:9 - 1.1 gain
> 
> 
> Or
> 
> 
> AccuScreen 106" Fixed-frame Projection Screen High-contrast Grey Material - 16:9 - 0.8 gain.
> 
> 
> I may also consider a motorized or manual pull down screen from EluneVision too. I've read good things about them and they are priced right and shipping to Canada is good. I forgot to mention I'm in Canada.
> 
> Any opinions?



YOu may want to continue to be open for more considerations for screen selections,

cause those 2 are far from Awesome......

With the colour of paint for your room with regards to walls and ceilings your

room is going to be full of light scatter...

The DIY Paint Options that Miss Man is an Expert of would be better than

An Elune Vision or AccuScreen...


----------



## athelaw915




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19717407
> 
> 
> Nonsense. It's never too late for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just fill out and send in the Warranty info. They'll probably give you special recognition for having done so!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, it's akin to "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" Just Register and let them tell you if your SOL if and when something happens. You can't be worse off....only get luckier than you seem to be at present.
> 
> 
> Happy New Year!



haha..thanks. I emailed epson asking them that question, so we will see what they say. I am now looking at getting a warranty from squaretrade.com. It will cost $135 for a 3 year coverage. Anyone dealt with squaretrade or know how they work? Thank you


----------



## akrasna

Hi all,


Although not a newbie in this general techie area - total newbie in terms of setting up a (semi) permanent placement for a Projector. And a "really sharp HD picture from a projector.


Here is what I plan to do (projector coming in about a week) I know this is quite strange.


1. I will be using 8350 as our primary living room /family room TV

(not AV room not dark theater room etc)


2. I expect for a lot of the time there will be normal room light (including natural light coming in form outside)


3. Although I have not decided on exact size I expect to have my screen size (projected size) be somewhere between 40 and 50 inches when used in this configuration.


4. I do NOT want to do a ceiling mount or any other mount that I can't get to and remove the projector in a matter of a few seconds


5. My screen will be a 1.3 gain screen fabric mounted on a wood frame


6.overall I am using this configuration instead of an LCD which is probably the classic solution for this issue.


Again - for now lets try this as a "given" and not - what an idiot, why would you do it like this.

*My question is*- for this kind of use - am I better projecting from some sort of stand/table AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to the screen as I can. Or from somewhere between 18 and 22 feet away at the other extreme


I can't use the area between lets say 6 and 18 feet ..

*Given the light conditions for this kind of room am I better from very close or very far?*



If the answer (and I am guessing it will be) is closer is better - HOW CLOSE can I be i.e. what is the closest.


Using the Projector central calculator and a guess of 47" (and 1.3 gain) it looks like an average of 6'3" - and if I bring the zoom to 2.11 then I can lower it to 4' 6" - how much do I hurt my picture going with that high zoom.


Am I correct reading from the calculator that the furthest I can get for a 47" picture is 10 feet?


Thanks for your help and pointers ...


Allen


----------



## soutthpaw

Natural light is the killer, make sure you will not have any direct light shining onto the screen.. Blackout shades of some kind are a must. for family room type lighting you are definitely going to be using dynamic mode a lot but that said it works well. try and block direct artificial light too. for example I put aluminum foil in my scone lights on the side facing the screen and found a huge improvement and no noticeable difference in room brightness from the lights. Go for a high gain screen. I am sure others can make screen recommendations.... but screen choice should make a huge difference in your setting


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *athelaw915* 
Since I got it already, think its too late to regret it. just hope i wont have to use the warranty and if I do, then hopefully epson will work something out with me.







how reliable are these units? I read several users had problems with it and had to use the warranty. thank you
Just a thought, Can you buy a squaretrade warranty for it via ebay or squaretrades website??


----------



## akrasna

Quote:

Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* 
Natural light is the killer, make sure you will not have any direct light shining onto the screen.. Blackout shades of some kind are a must. for family room type lighting you are definitely going to be using dynamic mode a lot but that said it works well. try and block direct artificial light too. for example I put aluminum foil in my scone lights on the side facing the screen and found a huge improvement and no noticeable difference in room brightness from the lights. Go for a high gain screen. I am sure others can make screen recommendations.... but screen choice should make a huge difference in your setting
Thanks Mr. Paw -


I guess I should have added - that all this with a wife who is against anything I am doing and can't make changes to the lighting etc. (I would expect blackout shades would leave to divorce ) good news is we have super shutters so when needed I CAN make the room almost completely dark - for movies etc it should be fine. it is more when the kids USE this as the "regular" TV in daytime -


I guess good news is that we don't have direct light onto the screen.


is a 1.3 screen considered strong enough?


Also is this situation is it better for the projector to be close or far?


Thanks


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *akrasna* 
Thanks Mr. Paw -


I guess I should have added - that all this with a wife who is against anything I am doing and can't make changes to the lighting etc. (I would expect blackout shades would leave to divorce ) good news is we have super shutters so when needed I CAN make the room almost completely dark - for movies etc it should be fine. it is more when the kids USE this as the "regular" TV in daytime -


I guess good news is that we don't have direct light onto the screen.


is a 1.3 screen considered strong enough?


Also is this situation is it better for the projector to be close or far?


Thanks
A SI Black Diamond 1.4 Gain Screen is alot cheaper than a divorce and you dont have to do anything to your room...


You will spend money but keep peace...

I have screen shots of Full AMbient light over at the Black Diamond Thread,

We watch Media Full Lights on all the time ,

If you have this projector which has a higher ansi Lumens than mine you could get away with a .8 gain screen....

Go check out the screen shots ...

Peace


----------



## fraisa

Southpaw,

Shocked with the Dead air regarding my Ceiling Recessed Outlet...


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> haha..thanks. I emailed epson asking them that question, so we will see what they say. I am now looking at getting a warranty from squaretrade.com. It will cost $135 for a 3 year coverage. Anyone dealt with squaretrade or know how they work? Thank you



Is this 3 years on top of the 2 years warranty from Epson?


If it's not, use your credit card and you'll get an extra year warranty for free, a total of 3 years.


----------



## athelaw915

neworder59,

no, it is only a 3 year warranty starting from the day or purchased. I am looking at squaretarde warranty due to buying a new projector from ebay and the 2 year warranty might not be honored due to the fact that ebay is considered as a gray market.


----------



## jeffreydc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19713577
> 
> 
> Before I get crushed I meant 1100. Now to go get the blue ray set up with Inception and Salt rated on this board as reference level brs and see what this puppy can really do!!!
> 
> 
> Oh and any suggestion on a 120 in. fixed frame or manual pulldown screen for this in a light controlled basement 11 and 17 foot viewing distances 70% sports 15%movies and 15% tv and under 400 would be greatly appreciated from everything I read this is the most difficult decision. Again a 1000 thankyous!!!!!



Im sure all the screen snobs on here are gonna laugh but I think it is absurd to spend more than a couple hundred bucks on a screen. I bought a 120" FAVI pulldown off of Amazon for about $100 and that included shipping! I figured if it was that bad I could just send it back since Amazon is great with returns. The screen and picture are FANTASTIC! I wanted to see what the difference would be between this and the DaLite hi-power so I had them send me a sample of every screen they had. This FAVI looks better than EVERY sample they sent. Im sure there are better screens out there from other mfg but I honestly cant see a reason why I would even want them. The picture looks much better than my new 60" samsung plasma even with a LOT of ambient light in the room so what would be the point besides the brag factor?


----------



## athelaw915




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19719318
> 
> 
> Just a thought, Can you buy a squaretrade warranty for it via ebay or squaretrades website??



yes i can southpaw, it will cost 135 for 3 year warranty. Not sure how good squaretrades is. any ideas?


----------



## athelaw915

Well, I just called epson techincal support and customer service and both confirmed that the warranty will still be honored by them as long as I can show date of purchase. The lady I spoke to techincal support said as long as I can show proof of purchase such as paypal receipt or something, they will honor it. Since this projector just came on the market several months ago, she stated that it should not be a problem getting warranty work done if it is needed. thank you all.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19721516
> 
> 
> Im sure all the screen snobs on here are gonna laugh but I think it is absurd to spend more than a couple hundred bucks on a screen. I bought a 120" FAVI pulldown off of Amazon for about $100 and that included shipping! I figured if it was that bad I could just send it back since Amazon is great with returns. The screen and picture are FANTASTIC! I wanted to see what the difference would be between this and the DaLite hi-power so I had them send me a sample of every screen they had. This FAVI looks better than EVERY sample they sent. Im sure there are better screens out there from other mfg but I honestly cant see a reason why I would even want them. The picture looks much better than my new 60" samsung plasma even with a LOT of ambient light in the room so what would be the point besides the brag factor?



My guess is the fabric is blackout cloth. Blackout cloth (.8 to 1.0 gain) can provide a decent image as long as the projector has enough lumens. Also if you can't see a huge difference between a DaLite High Power and that screen, then you have not set the projector up for correct viewing of a High Power screen.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19722160
> 
> 
> Well, I just called epson techincal support and customer service and both confirmed that the warranty will still be honored by them as long as I can show date of purchase. The lady I spoke to techincal support said as long as I can show proof of purchase such as paypal receipt or something, they will honor it. Since this projector just came on the market several months ago, she stated that it should not be a problem getting warranty work done if it is needed. thank you all.



Honesty is the best policy.







Congratulations on your projector. Epson is a stand up company.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19713166
> 
> 
> Has anyone changed filter or bulb yet?



Damn I got over 600 hours on my 8350 lol.


Im just paranoid but anyone know a reputable dealer or cheap spot I can get a new bulb?


Also does a filter come with the bulb? I cant remember what they said about it in the manual....


----------



## 96redformula

Quote:

Originally Posted by *andrios* 
Damn I got over 600 hours on my 8350 lol.


Im just paranoid but anyone know a reputable dealer or cheap spot I can get a new bulb?


Also does a filter come with the bulb? I cant remember what they said about it in the manual....
I am at 622 currently on my bulb, it is setup in the main seating area with the HTPC. I am hoping these bulbs get near their projected lifespan at 4000hrs.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/19724332
> 
> 
> I am at 622 currently on my bulb, it is setup in the main seating area with the HTPC. I am hoping these bulbs get near their projected lifespan at 4000hrs.



Ya same here but just in case it goes out before the superbowl for some odd reason I wanna have a backup haha.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19722726
> 
> 
> My guess is the fabric is blackout cloth. Blackout cloth (.8 to 1.0 gain) can provide a decent image as long as the projector has enough lumens. Also if you can't see a huge difference between a DaLite High Power and that screen, then you have not set the projector up for correct viewing of a High Power screen.



I understand where jeffreydc is coming from. Nope the Favi screen material isn't blackout cloth. Looks to be some form of plastic with black coated backing. Whatever it is, it is *highly* reflective. I have no way to measure but this screen gain is well above 1.0..probably higher than 3.0. Much better than Accuscreen or Focupix. Personally I would like to go up from 120 inch fixed but afraid I won't find a screen with this material's reflective properties that I will like or willing to pay extra for...go figure.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Damn I got over 600 hours on my 8350 lol.
> 
> 
> Im just paranoid but anyone know a reputable dealer or cheap spot I can get a new bulb?
> 
> 
> Also does a filter come with the bulb? I cant remember what they said about it in the manual....



You don't have to replace filter. Believe it is washable. Just take out and clean it in the sink.


----------



## fraisa

When i have a customer get any projector i Always get them to also pick up a spare bulb.

ANyone who has a projector set up should always have a extra bulb on the shelf for a Just in cause situation.

Anything can Happen.

As for the filter,

Do not wash it , that can compromise the structure of the filter and allow harmful elements in Buy a New One Always...

It can save your investment in the long run.....


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19722160
> 
> 
> Well, I just called epson techincal support and customer service and both confirmed that the warranty will still be honored by them as long as I can show date of purchase. The lady I spoke to techincal support said as long as I can show proof of purchase such as paypal receipt or something, they will honor it. Since this projector just came on the market several months ago, she stated that it should not be a problem getting warranty work done if it is needed. thank you all.




Very Cool. I have to say I am Impressed by Epson and their warranty and projector thus far.... as for square trade, they also do all the extended warranties for Amazon so they have to be somewhat decent to get the Amazon contract.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19725411
> 
> 
> You don't have to replace filter. Believe it is washable. Just take out and clean it in the sink.



if you have a shop air compressor just blow it out with compressed air. I do that will all my shop vacs. hand vacs etc. works very well


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19719591
> 
> 
> Southpaw,
> 
> Shocked with the Dead air regarding my Ceiling Recessed Outlet...



I still need to get the cover plate for mine. I really only see the need for the recessed if you are mounting very close to the ceiling... I need to take mine down again and paint it and make a couple more templates for the mount plate anyway. have a couple folks interested in the plates for their own mounts. I think I have enough aluminum for 2 or 3 more plates


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19725520
> 
> 
> if you have a shop air compressor just blow it out with compressed air. I do that will all my shop vacs. hand vacs etc. works very well



Dont do that with a projector air Filter,









your air compressor will compromise the filter allowing the chance for elements to pass thru,

dont cheap out on this ,

If you do things the right way it can save you a big head ache in the long run......


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19725532
> 
> 
> I still need to get the cover plate for mine. I really only see the need for the recessed if you are mounting very close to the ceiling... I need to take mine down again and paint it and make a couple more templates for the mount plate anyway. have a couple folks interested in the plates for their own mounts. I think I have enough aluminum for 2 or 3 more plates



Kwl.....


----------



## Quick Hands

Jefferey DC Thanks

I've been looking at all the cheap screens on amazon such as the Favi and Elites sub 400 and they seem to have good reviews. Since this is my first projector setup I just want something cheap and decent for now till I learn more about screens it seems this is the most difficult decision most of us make. Wife and I picked out paint and carpet so budgets getting tight and even on a blank wall I'm impressed so can only imagine what a screen will do. The last two night both my son and wife wanted to watch movies down there.(Salt and The Other Guys)

Life is Good!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19725454
> 
> 
> When i have a customer get any projector i Always get them to also pick up a spare bulb.
> 
> ANyone who has a projector set up should always have a extra bulb on the shelf for a Just in cause situation.
> 
> Anything can Happen.
> 
> As for the filter,
> 
> Do not wash it , that can compromise the structure of the filter and allow harmful elements in Buy a New One Always...
> 
> It can save your investment in the long run.....



Don't forget sell them frequency grease to keep dust off the lens for optimal projection.


----------



## MississippiMan

The Air Filters can be rinsed backwards with just a gentle stream of water. Unless your water contains a great deal of Rust and other particulate matter, washing it will create no issues.


Neither will cleaning it with a moderate blast from Can-supplied Compressed Air.


As in anything, a little common sense is called for. Don't use the High Pressure setting on the Garden Hose to rinse the Filter, nor 200 psi from a big compressor.


Oh yeah...no Sponge baths for the PJ if it gets dusty.


And as for a spare Bulb, with the Epson, and the Mfg decision to replace all bulbs that fail during the life of the Warranty period, that would be a very unnecessary expense. That is unless your suffering from a bad case of "No SuperBowl-itus" and because of such paranoia you are terrified at the prospect of the Bulb failing during the 1st quarter of the Big Game. Otherwise, the 48 hr time frame that it takes Epson to send you a replacement Bulb isn't too awfully inconvenient.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Air Filters can be rinsed backwards with just a gentle stream of water. Unless your water contains a great deal of Rust and other particulate matter, washing it will create no issues.
> 
> 
> Neither will cleaning it with a moderate blast from Can-supplied Compressed Air.
> 
> 
> As in anything, a little common sense is called for. Don't use the High Pressure setting on the Garden Hose to rinse the Filter, nor 200 psi from a big compressor.
> 
> 
> Oh yeah...no Sponge baths for the PJ if it gets dusty.
> 
> 
> And as for a spare Bulb, with the Epson, and the Mfg decision to replace all bulbs that fail during the life of the Warranty period, that would be a very unnecessary expense. That is unless your suffering from a bad case of "No SuperBowl-itus" and because of such paranoia you are terrified at the prospect of the Bulb failing during the 1st quarter of the Big Game. Otherwise, the 48 hr time frame that it takes Epson to send you a replacement Bulb isn't too awfully inconvenient.



Thanks for the much-needed anti-FUD. There seems to be a pattern in this thread.


----------



## trolly

Hello all- I just got my 8350 hung and connected but I have not been able to enable Epson Super White with my PS3 connected via component - HDMI is not an option for me but I was able to get SuperWhite as a selectable option when I connected my PS3 directly to the 8350 via HDMI which is the opposite of what the owner's manual reads. With component, it is greyed out as an option. I'm curious if anyone else with a similar setup is seeing the same thing. Thanks in advance-


John


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19725539
> 
> 
> Dont do that with a projector air Filter,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> your air compressor will compromise the filter allowing the chance for elements to pass thru,
> 
> dont cheap out on this ,
> 
> If you do things the right way it can save you a big head ache in the long run......



coming from a guy who sells projectors for a living. we all know accessories and parts have a huge profit margin so why not get every customer to buy and extra bulb and filter... tell them it needs changing every 100 hrs too, just like a car filter that should make ya some money


Hey Fraisa. RTFM page 52 says you can clean it, vacuum it, brush it, only replace if dirt particles are hard to remove... the reason blowing is not mentioned is because most people do not own an air compressor....


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19724905
> 
> 
> I understand where jeffreydc is coming from. Nope the Favi screen material isn't blackout cloth. Looks to be some form of plastic with black coated backing. Whatever it is, it is *highly* reflective. I have no way to measure but this screen gain is well above 1.0..probably higher than 3.0. Much better than Accuscreen or Focupix. Personally I would like to go up from 120 inch fixed but afraid I won't find a screen with this material's reflective properties that I will like or willing to pay extra for...go figure.



I would be cautious making unsubstantiated claims. as a gain of 3.0 seems like a fishing story. do you mean 1.3. from threads over at the screen forum blackout cloth seem to 1-1.3. my DoAble board has been tested at 1.3 on the forum too. that said if you have a cheap 3.0 gain screen I wanna know what it is


----------



## ferbal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19727647
> 
> 
> ...Hey Fraisa. RTFM page 52 says you can clean it, vacuum it, brush it, only replace if dirt particles are hard to remove... the reason blowing is not mentioned is because most people do not own an air compressor....



You don't need an air compressor, you can use a canned air. Just be sure that you're blowing from the inside part of the filter. If you're vacuuming it, do it gentle from the outside.


----------



## CTShooter

I have the 8350 and a 105" screen.


currently when I watch a movie that is 2:35 it goes all the way from left to right but there are is still now plenty of open white space above and below the picture.


Is there a way, with this projector, to fill the entire screen?


I know this is probably a silly question but I have been just putting the movie in and watching it...if it is in the right ratio to fill the screen cool, if not we watch it with the space above and below the picture.


----------



## lewke

2.35:1 movies aren't suppose to fill your 16:9 screen......


----------



## engelba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/19728005
> 
> 
> I have the 8350 and a 105" screen.
> 
> 
> currently when I watch a movie that is 2:35 it goes all the way from left to right but there are is still now plenty of open white space above and below the picture.
> 
> 
> Is there a way, with this projector, to fill the entire screen?
> 
> 
> I know this is probably a silly question but I have been just putting the movie in and watching it...if it is in the right ratio to fill the screen cool, if not we watch it with the space above and below the picture.



I presume you have a 105" 16:9 screen....


Not really, it is an aspect ratio thing. You could zoom in and chop off the left/right sides of the image but that is probably not what you want. There is no strech feature that will strech it vertically... and if it did you probably wouldn't want to use it 


Pretty much 2 options... get a 2.35 screen or get a masking system to hide the white parts of your screen.


Unfortunately you will have to deal with bars unless you hide them with a masking system no matter if you have a 16:9 or 2.35 screen.


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *engelba* /forum/post/19728260
> 
> 
> I presume you have a 105" 16:9 screen....
> 
> 
> Not really, it is an aspect ratio thing. You could zoom in and chop off the left/right sides of the image but that is probably not what you want. There is no strech feature that will strech it vertically... and if it did you probably wouldn't want to use it
> 
> 
> Pretty much 2 options... get a 2.35 screen or get a masking system to hide the white parts of your screen.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately you will have to deal with bars unless you hide them with a masking system no matter if you have a 16:9 or 2.35 screen.




thats what I thought but I figured I would ask - I have looked for a viable masking system but since I have a pull down screen I have not been able to find something that would work...any suggestions?


----------



## engelba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/19728332
> 
> 
> thats what I thought but I figured I would ask - I have looked for a viable masking system but since I have a pull down screen I have not been able to find something that would work...any suggestions?




Not sure how that would work on a pull down (if at all). Carada sells a masking system (sure there are others) but be prepared to shell out some bucks for it.


Personally, I don't mind the bars... I've lived with them on my 16:9 displays for years so I am kind of used to them.


If the room is dark (e.g. ceiling, carpet, walls are a darkish color), I don't notice them. The become more noticable when you have a lot of light spraying around the room.


So my suggestion is try to make your room darker... If that has already been done, you might have to go fixed screen with a masking system (read: big money).... or try to live with it


----------



## trolly

UPDATE: I've been up the ladder of Epson Technical Support and cannot get any kind of explanation of why Super White is not available when connected with component. I asked if maybe my projector is defective and I should try another one and I was told that might not fix the problem. I'm not very impressed with Epson Tech Support in their knowledge of this feature - I'm now being told to use HDMI if I want Super White and this is not an option for me as my basement ceiling is finished with only component run to the projector. I cant decide if I should take it back and try another one or not. Any ideas or suggestions?


----------



## Dan Hitchman

Use HDMI and buy a load of cable covers and extra paint. If you didn't run conduit to the projector, then that's all you can do. Besides, you'll get the best picture quality and 1080p/24 support.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19727647
> 
> 
> coming from a guy who sells projectors for a living. we all know accessories and parts have a huge profit margin so why not get every customer to buy and extra bulb and filter... tell them it needs changing every 100 hrs too, just like a car filter that should make ya some money
> 
> 
> Hey Fraisa. RTFM page 52 says you can clean it, vacuum it, brush it, only replace if dirt particles are hard to remove... the reason blowing is not mentioned is because most people do not own an air compressor....



THought i let you mention that i am a dealer , so i dont get someone reporting on me again...










And ya with the amount I make off of selling someone an extra bulb i could take you and me out for lunch at Denny's ...And we are ordering from the Value Combo's.......

And for a filter you could get dessert.....lol


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19727755
> 
> 
> I would be cautious making unsubstantiated claims. as a gain of 3.0 seems like a fishing story. do you mean 1.3. from threads over at the screen forum blackout cloth seem to 1-1.3. my DoAble board has been tested at 1.3 on the forum too. that said if you have a cheap 3.0 gain screen I wanna know what it is



Yeah the manufacture actually claims 6.0 gain. I cut that number in half.







This isn't BOC.

I've had 1.1 to 1.3 gain screens here prior. It is much, much higher than that. So much more I had to make brightness and color adjustments because it does have such a high gain...it is what it is. I didn't expect it either, but there's no denying the reflective properties of this material when I turn my pj on even at its lowest settings with 900 plus hours on the lamp. The image is still brighter than my Sharp flat panel in the same room. It's a cheap material but it works for whatever reason.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19724905
> 
> 
> I understand where jeffreydc is coming from. Nope the Favi screen material isn't blackout cloth. Looks to be some form of plastic with black coated backing. Whatever it is, it is *highly* reflective. I have no way to measure but this screen gain is well above 1.0..probably higher than 3.0. Much better than Accuscreen or Focupix. Personally I would like to go up from 120 inch fixed but afraid I won't find a screen with this material's reflective properties that I will like or willing to pay extra for...go figure.



Favi seems to only make one 120" pull down screen and FAVI lists it as 1.3 gain. As I said if the guy could not tell any difference between his screen and a High Power screen (2.8 gain), then it means he did not have a correct set up for a High Power screen. My guess would be his projector is ceiling mounted or high shelf mounted and that is not a correct set up for a High Power screen. It makes a huge difference.


Added

Blackout cloth is just as you described and it is often listed from 1.0 to 1.3 gain.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19729963
> 
> 
> Favi seems to only make one 120" pull down screen and FAVI lists it as 1.3 gain. As I said if the guy could not tell any difference between his screen and a High Power screen (2.8 gain), then it means he did not have a correct set up for a High Power screen. My guess would be his projector is ceiling mounted or high shelf mounted and that is not a correct set up for a High Power screen. It makes a huge difference.



Yeah not sure what material is used with the pull down screen. Or if it is the same or similar to the fixed? I can only quote on the fixed Favi.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19727647
> 
> 
> coming from a guy who sells projectors for a living. we all know accessories and parts have a huge profit margin so why not get every customer to buy and extra bulb and filter... tell them it needs changing every 100 hrs too, just like a car filter that should make ya some money
> 
> 
> Hey Fraisa. RTFM page 52 says you can clean it, vacuum it, brush it, only replace if dirt particles are hard to remove... the reason blowing is not mentioned is because most people do not own an air compressor....



Most air compressors blow out a small amount of oil with the air. Not as good a choice as washing the filter.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/19728332
> 
> 
> thats what I thought but I figured I would ask - I have looked for a viable masking system but since I have a pull down screen I have not been able to find something that would work...any suggestions?



For 2.35 aspect ratio, raise the bottom of the screen so that you do not need a masking panel at the bottom. Hang black velvet from a rod at the top. You will need to manually roll out the top mask and you will need to hem the bottom of the velvet so that you can slide a rod into it to weight it down. Lots of different guys on here have built masking systems.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *engelba* /forum/post/19728466
> 
> 
> Not sure how that would work on a pull down (if at all). Carada sells a masking system (sure there are others) but be prepared to shell out some bucks for it.
> 
> 
> Personally, I don't mind the bars... I've lived with them on my 16:9 displays for years so I am kind of used to them.
> 
> 
> If the room is dark (e.g. ceiling, carpet, walls are a darkish color), I don't notice them. The become more noticable when you have a lot of light spraying around the room.
> 
> 
> So my suggestion is try to make your room darker... If that has already been done, you might have to go fixed screen with a masking system (read: big money).... or try to live with it



Lots of DIY fixed screen masking systems. I made a mechanical masking system for my fixed frame screen. It works very well. The way I did my masking system, I do not have any masking panel shadow on my screen.


----------



## fraisa

Okay few pages back i posted some screen shots of a 8350 on a Da Lite Matte white screen...

Thought some might be intrested in seeing what that same scene looks like on a 9700 just for a FYI...

I could have put the shot on a SI Black Diamond .8 Gain

But that wouldnt be Fair.

So I took the shots of the same scene on a .... Wait for it.......

DIY Taupe Painted Wall...( Its my Office Wall ,,,)

Okay Just so no one has a cow or jumps to conclusions

Purpose of this is a FYI not me saying the 9700 is Superior...

I will let you guys judge ,

The 9700 is in THX Film Mode... Not Vivid or Cinema Day.....


First 8350 on Da Lite Matte White Screen


















Now Same Scene Painted Taupe Wall

9700ub


































Note...

Really think we should start considering The Colour Taupe for screen colour..

Little better than Gray.....


Edit Note,,,

FYI...

Will be posting more screen shots on the Taupe Painted Wall

over in the 9700 ub thread...


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffreydc* /forum/post/19721516
> 
> 
> Im sure all the screen snobs on here are gonna laugh but I think it is absurd to spend more than a couple hundred bucks on a screen. I bought a 120" FAVI pulldown off of Amazon for about $100 and that included shipping! I figured if it was that bad I could just send it back since Amazon is great with returns. The screen and picture are FANTASTIC! I wanted to see what the difference would be between this and the DaLite hi-power so I had them send me a sample of every screen they had. This FAVI looks better than EVERY sample they sent. Im sure there are better screens out there from other mfg but I honestly cant see a reason why I would even want them. The picture looks much better than my new 60" samsung plasma even with a LOT of ambient light in the room so what would be the point besides the brag factor?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19730005
> 
> 
> Yeah not sure what material is used with the pull down screen. Or if it is the same or similar to the fixed? I can only quote on the fixed Favi.



Sorry, I thought that you were talking about the 120" pull down screen that was first brought up. I did seem the claimed (had to laugh) 6.0 gain of the fixed frame screen.


----------



## eat meat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19727755
> 
> 
> I would be cautious making unsubstantiated claims. as a gain of 3.0 seems like a fishing story. do you mean 1.3. from threads over at the screen forum blackout cloth seem to 1-1.3. my DoAble board has been tested at 1.3 on the forum too. that said if you have a cheap 3.0 gain screen I wanna know what it is



FAVI 16:9/120-Inch Fixed Frame Projector Screen (FF-HD-120)

# Gain: 6 (best in class); wide viewing angle (175 degrees)

# Lightweight aluminum frame with black velvet

# Adjustable tensioners allows for a tight, smooth projection surface

# Screen Dimensions: see diagram


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/19730306
> 
> 
> FAVI 16:9/120-Inch Fixed Frame Projector Screen (FF-HD-120)
> 
> # Gain: 6 (best in class); wide viewing angle (175 degrees)
> 
> # Lightweight aluminum frame with black velvet
> 
> # Adjustable tensioners allows for a tight, smooth projection surface
> 
> # Screen Dimensions: see diagram



would like to see some screen shots of this screen


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/19730306
> 
> 
> FAVI 16:9/120-Inch Fixed Frame Projector Screen (FF-HD-120)
> 
> # Gain: 6 (best in class); wide viewing angle (175 degrees)
> 
> # Lightweight aluminum frame with black velvet
> 
> # Adjustable tensioners allows for a tight, smooth projection surface
> 
> # Screen Dimensions: see diagram



If that screen actually had 6.0 gain, 175 degree viewing angle and did not hot spot, all for under $500 for a 120" screen. Then FAVI has discovered the next best thing since sliced bread.


----------



## Joesyah

Here's a few screen pics of the Favi with the blue monkeys and Star Trek. There are better made screens for sure. It's just tough to find one with high gain at this price point.


----------



## fraisa

Okay lesson in takeing screen shots..

Anyone can take a zoomed shot, and make eye candy..

Lets see you zoom out showing a little more of the room and

Less zoom....

that will give a more real life to the shot.

also since this is high gain

Throw on some ambient light....

do that and post some more


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19730760
> 
> 
> Okay lesson in takeing screen shots..
> 
> Anyone can take a zoomed shot, and make eye candy..
> 
> Lets see you zoom out showing a little more of the room and
> 
> Less zoom....
> 
> that will give a more real life to the shot.
> 
> also since this is high gain
> 
> Throw on some ambient light....
> 
> do that and post some more



I'll shoot some more when I get my new projector: JVC hd250 , Infocus SP8602, Sony vwPro1 or JVC RS40 in a few weeks. Still trying to decide which way to go.


----------



## eat meat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19730760
> 
> 
> okay lesson in takeing screen shots..
> 
> Anyone can take a zoomed shot, and make eye candy..
> 
> Lets see you zoom out showing a little more of the room and
> 
> less zoom....
> 
> That will give a more real life to the shot.
> 
> Also since this is high gain
> 
> throw on some ambient light....
> 
> Do that and post some more



are you for real?


----------



## neworder59




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19730105
> 
> 
> Okay few pages back i posted some screen shots of a 8350 on a Da Lite Matte white screen...
> 
> Thought some might be intrested in seeing what that same scene looks like on a 9700 just for a FYI...
> 
> I could have put the shot on a SI Black Diamond .8 Gain
> 
> But that wouldnt be Fair.
> 
> So I took the shots of the same scene on a .... Wait for it.......
> 
> DIY Taupe Painted Wall...( Its my Office Wall ,,,)
> 
> Okay Just so no one has a cow or jumps to conclusions
> 
> Purpose of this is a FYI not me saying the 9700 is Superior...
> 
> I will let you guys judge ,
> 
> The 9700 is in THX Film Mode... Not Vivid or Cinema Day.....
> 
> 
> First 8350 on Da Lite Matte White Screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now Same Scene Painted Taupe Wall
> 
> 9700ub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note...
> 
> Really think we should start considering The Colour Taupe for screen colour..
> 
> Little better than Gray.....
> 
> 
> Edit Note,,,
> 
> FYI...
> 
> Will be posting more screen shots on the Taupe Painted Wall
> 
> over in the 9700 ub thread...




Turn off the ambient light on the 8350 then you can compare which projector is better. It's hard to to compare if the surrounding is different.


----------



## soutthpaw

If possible I would like to ask that folks post the name of the movie and the time frame position of the image with each picture. I have Avatar for example and would love to compare the posted images to my own so I can see if there is a difference.. such that I might want to try a mentioned screen.


Also is there any down sides to using a high gain screen?


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the 8350 and a 105" screen.
> 
> 
> currently when I watch a movie that is 2:35 it goes all the way from left to right but there are is still now plenty of open white space above and below the picture.
> 
> 
> Is there a way, with this projector, to fill the entire screen?
> 
> 
> I know this is probably a silly question but I have been just putting the movie in and watching it...if it is in the right ratio to fill the screen cool, if not we watch it with the space above and below the picture.



What do you mean - white space? Bars should be black what am I missing?


Super white question 99% sure that is only possible over HDMI for ALL displays. Google it to check.


----------



## mhdiab

 http://manuals.playstation.net/docum...uperwhite.html 


Super-white over HDMI only don't blame Epson except they should have known


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neworder59* /forum/post/19731498
> 
> 
> Turn off the ambient light on the 8350 then you can compare which projector is better. It's hard to to compare if the surrounding is different.



I agree. Since he sells projectors, I would think that he should have known that he was setting up a biased comparison.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19731796
> 
> 
> If possible I would like to ask that folks post the name of the movie and the time frame position of the image with each picture. I have Avatar for example and would love to compare the posted images to my own so I can see if there is a difference.. such that I might want to try a mentioned screen.
> 
> 
> Also is there any down sides to using a high gain screen?



Usually reduced viewing cone and possible hot spotting.


----------



## engelba

Not to sound like an as$ but I do not understand why people try to compare PJ/screen combo's with screen shots. I don't know what you could possibly discern from them.


Given various exposure, f/ratio etc.... settings on cameras, even a mediocre looking screen/PJ can look good.


I get they are kind of fun to take and post (like showing off your children) but I would take them with a grain of salt when making a purchase decision.


Sorry, just had to get my 2 cents in on this... I now return you to the arts.....


----------



## mhdiab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Usually reduced viewing cone and possible hot spotting.



To see if these are issues go read about HP scenes and setup limitations. Definitely not for everyone but those that solve the setup issues usually seem very happy with their decision.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19731967
> 
> 
> I agree. Since he sells projectors, I would think that he should have known that he was setting up a biased comparison.



You guys have totally missed my point....

This wasnt about saying the 9700 was better than the 8350

the point is the 9700 is on a DIY Taupe Painted wall...

And the 8350 is on a cheap Crap Da Lite screen....


You guys are spending money on Crap screens when you dont have to...


2nd point was that the wall colour is taupe and not grey or white...

(totally missed on that one too)


We think of screen colours as Grey or White i am clearly showing you there is another colour to choose from....


If you where to put an 8350 on a Taupe Paint Wall your results would be better than your low budget Screens...

Thats the point...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/19731398
> 
> 
> are you for real?



Okay someone posts screen shots of a 6.gain screen and there in the dark.....

Was just saying unzoom and throw on the lights

and lets see this screen shine...

I actually am very intrested in seeing how this screen handles the light...


...


----------



## soutthpaw

found this webpage on a search on screen material. this seems like a much better way to compare screens. again camera ability is limited but he does have some nice images which can show the various differences between material on the same image. it definitely shows the differences in low vs high gain screens...

http://crimdom.net/home-theatre/screens.html


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *engelba* /forum/post/19732266
> 
> 
> Not to sound like an as$ but I do not understand why people try to compare PJ/screen combo's with screen shots. I don't know what you could possibly discern from them.
> 
> 
> Given various exposure, f/ratio etc.... settings on cameras, even a mediocre looking screen/PJ can look good.
> 
> 
> I get they are kind of fun to take and post (like showing off your children) but I would take them with a grain of salt when making a purchase decision.
> 
> 
> Sorry, just had to get my 2 cents in on this... I now return you to the arts.....



That has always been a point of contention between those who swear by Screenies, and those who dismiss them.


The Basic truth is double edged.


1. Of course any Screen can be made to look better than it is (PJ as well) with Pixel Interpolation and excessive Zooming.


2. "Correct" use of any Camera can garner images that when compared to the actual subject, can be ascertained as being a precise depiction of what the eye is seeing.


Just about everyone knows a Good Screen Shot image from a Bad one, and those of us with much experience can spot a manipulated or excessively (camera) processed image immediately.


Even though there will always be those who choose to dismiss "all" Screen Shots (...mostly because of what they have read...but not experienced....) it boils down to the validity of the "taker" and as to if one can be assured that when that person says "WYSIWIS" (...what you see is what I see"...) you can take that to the Bank.


Otherwise, much of it becomes a case of one person calling out "BS" on another, something that is all to common & easy for some to do no matter what the provocation.


What has always amused me is how those with CRT PJs NEVER have their Screenies questioned. Well...the truth is that is because the CRTs do not have the lumen output of Digital PJs that usually washes out the Metering ability of the Camera. Therein lies the secret to taking a good image of ANYTHING. Achieving a balance of light within the borders of any image.


Of course none of the above will convince a steadfast Naysayer, but just the same, no one should doubt that a screen image can be had to be precisely illustrative of real life if taken correctly.


Sadly....few are.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19732547
> 
> 
> found this webpage on a search on screen material. this seems like a much better way to compare screens. again camera ability is limited but he does have some nice images which can show the various differences between material on the same image. it definitely shows the differences in low vs high gain screens...
> 
> http://crimdom.net/home-theatre/screens.html



Read this link here is one thing that stood out...

UPDATE (December 2000): There's a couple of new gray screens from Da-Lite and Stewart which are becoming available and being discussed on home theater forums like the AVScience Forums. These gray screens look very promising for projectors with less than ideal black levels. Check it out!


Notice that the update was from Dec 2000

This is 10 yrs old...

All screens and projectors have changed in the last 10 yrs


Just pointing it out.

Thanks southpaw for the Link...

Cheers


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19732547
> 
> 
> found this webpage on a search on screen material. this seems like a much better way to compare screens. again camera ability is limited but he does have some nice images which can show the various differences between material on the same image. it definitely shows the differences in low vs high gain screens...
> 
> http://crimdom.net/home-theatre/screens.html



Yuk.


Those pictures represent the worst example of a evaluation I have ever come across! And I've seen many awful ones!


I'm not seeing any differences I would care to crow about, and the Color...even in the Dark Room images is deplorable.


That is kinda sad too, because it's obvious the Fellow meant to provide some insight into the differences. That also must be a very old review because the PJ he used was a (now Hoary old) Sony VLP-VW10HT (circa 2000) and since has moved from that into a Sony 20HT and then in '07 to a JVC RS-1.


Summary: Not much of any value to someone these days, and could be quite (unintentionally) misleading to some. And as referenced in my previous Post...someone needs to teach Dude how to take decent Screen Shots!


Quick Update:


Upon posting I saw this:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19732622
> 
> 
> Read this link here is one thing that stood out...
> 
> UPDATE (December 2000):
> 
> 
> Notice that the update was from Dec 2000
> 
> This is 10 yrs old...
> 
> All screens and projectors have changed in the last 10 yrs
> 
> 
> Just pointing it out.
> 
> Thanks southpaw for the Link...
> 
> Cheers



Your Johnny -on-the-Spot these days fraisa!


----------



## bensashi

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just got the 8350 last night...looks really great, but I'm having some odd issues hooking up my PS3 and running a 1080p signal over HDMI


I initially thought that there was a problem with my Psyclone HDMI switch. I've been using that successfully for years to switch 720p signals from the Xbox 360 and PS3, so there was no indication that it might be bad. When I tried to switch my PS3 to 1080p, however, the projector did not like it. Occasionally it would just report "mode not supported" or something like that but sometimes it would show the PS3 output but with heavy flicker every few seconds.


I attempted to determine the faulty component. Hooking up through the switch with 2 much smaller cables (originally I was running 2 25-ft cables to and from the switch) yielded the same results. Bypassing the switch and using the original long cable, I was able to hook up and display 1080p just fine.


At that point I just assumed I needed a new switch and that was that, but I ran into some more problems as I played around a bit. When I used the Netflix application with the PS3 hooked up directly, there would be some flickering in some of the menus. I also would get the occasional flicker during Netflix movie playback though it was much less frequent. Here is a video of what I was experiencing....does anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on?


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *bensashi* 
I'm hoping someone can help me out. I just got the 8350 last night...looks really great, but I'm having some odd issues hooking up my PS3 and running a 1080p signal over HDMI


I initially thought that there was a problem with my Psyclone HDMI switch. I've been using that successfully for years to switch 720p signals from the Xbox 360 and PS3, so there was no indication that it might be bad. When I tried to switch my PS3 to 1080p, however, the projector did not like it. Occasionally it would just report "mode not supported" or something like that but sometimes it would show the PS3 output but with heavy flicker every few seconds.


I attempted to determine the faulty component. Hooking up through the switch with 2 much smaller cables (originally I was running 2 25-ft cables to and from the switch) yielded the same results. Bypassing the switch and using the original long cable, I was able to hook up and display 1080p just fine.


At that point I just assumed I needed a new switch and that was that, but I ran into some more problems as I played around a bit. When I used the Netflix application with the PS3 hooked up directly, there would be some flickering in some of the menus. I also would get the occasional flicker during Netflix movie playback though it was much less frequent. Here is a video of what I was experiencing....does anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on?






As an Owner of a Psyclone HDMI switch ,

thats the switch...

I have seen it,

You need to get a new switch...


EDit,...

Sorry my bad mis read post...

I have however seen that flicker on my HDMI Switch before ,(when i had my plasma Set up)

i just powered down the switch and it went away...


----------



## FilmMixer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fraisa* 
As an Owner of a Psyclone HDMI switch ,

thats the switch...

I have seen it,

You need to get a new switch...
There is no switch in that video....


Re-read his post...


25 feet (50 both ways) of cable is a long run.... I still suspect it is a cabling issue...


Good luck... that stuff is hard to track down...


----------



## MississippiMan

That sir, is an obvious "Hand Shake" issue, most likely caused by HDMI voltage fluctuations through the Switch. Also, since a direct hook up to the PS3 eliminated such...but you still have some of the same issue via Internet/Cable, the same thing is happening there as well.


Unfortunately, that would indicate the issue is rooted within the Signal Processing of the 8350. It's acting as if it's not receiving a strong enough signal...or a slightly intermittent "out of sync" signal and that might just be the case...though through no fault of you or your connections. If the issue is because your not getting a decent connection due to variables in how the HDMI cords are inserting into the various ports, that too could show similar issues. This seems to be cropping up with more and more frequency because of the abundance of different Mfg of HDMI Cords available, and variables in the milling tolerances of their connections, and that of the actual Signal producing / switching devices.


There is a small, inexpensive ($25.00) in-line device that is helpful in absolving voltage/handshake issues.


It isolates and replaces the output voltage of whatever Device is supplying HDMI and feed a precise power supply from it's dedicated Source

http://www.partsexpress.com 

Part Number:

#183-817


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mhdiab* 
To see if these are issues go read about HP scenes and setup limitations. Definitely not for everyone but those that solve the setup issues usually seem very happy with their decision.
I run an AT screen in my dedicated room, but I have a High Power set up in my family room, so I am very familiar with the High Power screen. For the family room, I made an adjustable height pedestal to be able to get the projector to optimum viewing height. Projector and screen can be easily raised for Wii and Kinect. Since my projector is so heavy (nearly 30lbs) I installed gas springs in the pedestal so that I can raise and lower the projector with two fingers. The HP does have limitations, but set up correctly it is a great screen.


----------



## FilmMixer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
That sir, is an obvious "Hand Shake" issue, most likely caused by HDMI voltage fluctuations through the Switch. Also, since a direct hook up to the PS3 eliminated such...but you still have some of the same issue via Internet/Cable, the same thing is happening there as well.


Unfortunately, that would indicate the issue is rooted within the Signal Processing of the 8350. It's acting as if it's not receiving a strong enough signal...or a slightly intermittent "out of sync" signal and that might just be the case...though through no fault of you or your connections. If the issue is because your not getting a decent connection due to variables in how the HDMI cords are inserting into the various ports, that too could show similar issues. This seems to be cropping up with more and more frequency because of the abundance of different Mfg of HDMI Cords available, and variables in the milling tolerances of their connections, and that of the actual Signal producing / switching devices.


There is a small, inexpensive ($25.00) in-line device that is helpful in absolving voltage/handshake issues.


It isolates and replaces the output voltage of whatever Device is supplying HDMI and feed a precise power supply from it's dedicated Source

http://www.partsexpress.com 

Part Number:

#183-817
Once again, his switch is out of the loop.. the video he posted was from a direct connect.


But I suspect you are correct... 25/50 foot runs are long for HDMI...


That device you linked to looks great..


I might also suggest using a DVI cable from the switch/source using HDMI>DVI on both ends.. I have found that they are much more stable (in my theater) than longer HDMI's at the same length (25-30 feet.)


----------



## engelba

I would agree looks like a handshake issue to me as well. Can you clarify, in the youtube video how many feet of hdmi cable is the signal going through? 25ft?


Also, at the risk of starting a cable flame war, can you tell me what brand/type of hdmi cable you are using? At shorter distances brand/type of cable is usually irrealvant but when you start going above 25+ feet it can be a factor.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* 
There is no switch in that video....


Re-read his post...


25 feet (50 both ways) of cable is a long run.... I still suspect it is a cabling issue...


Good luck... that stuff is hard to track down...
I agree. Since he can run 720P with no problem and he gets drop outs with 1080P. Poster can try boosting the signal using one of these between the cables: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## mjg100

About the only way I like to use screen shots, is when the screen shots (between two projectors) were taken in the same room, same screen, same scene and the same camera by the same person. Like what Art does with his Projector Reviews.


----------



## bensashi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *engelba* 
I would agree looks like a handshake issue to me as well. Can you clarify, in the youtube video how many feet of hdmi cable is the signal going through? 25ft?


Also, at the risk of starting a cable flame war, can you tell me what brand/type of hdmi cable you are using? At shorter distances brand/type of cable is usually irrealvant but when you start going above 25+ feet it can be a factor.
Thanks for all of the responses, guys. I will be doing some more testing today and trying out my Xbox as well. Just to clarify a few things:
Bypassing the switch and hooking up directly to the PS3 (with the 25ft cable) removed the issues I was having with "signal not supported", but I was still having issues (I was not going through the switch in the video)
my cables tend to be on the cheaper side, so I don't really know that they are brand name cables - I might have a few decent ones but the long ones were probably cheap buys from Amazon


I wil try hooking up directly with some of the shorter cables I have and see if that eliminates issues. When I tested the shorter cables yesterday it was just through the switch and that was still causing the unsupported signal problem, so I'm sure there are issues with the switch, but I think maybe there are some cabling issues too with the longer cables as you guys have suspected. I'll also try playing around with the Xbox 360 in 1080p and see what I can find there. I guess the only stuff I can test is the dashboard and movie trailers...don't think there are any games supporting that resolution on the 360 (outside of Arcade at least).


I'll keep everyone updated - really appreciate the feedback. For the most part I am just trying to make sure there's not an issue with the projector. I can handle having to upgrade some cables and other components, but if there's an issue with the 8350 I'd like to find out within the 14-day return window rather than having to go through Epson with the warranty.


----------



## FilmMixer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *bensashi* 
Thanks for all of the responses, guys. I will be doing some more testing today and trying out my Xbox as well. Just to clarify a few things:
Bypassing the switch and hooking up directly to the PS3 (with the 25ft cable) removed the issues I was having with "signal not supported", but I was still having issues (I was not going through the switch in the video)
my cables tend to be on the cheaper side, so I don't really know that they are brand name cables - I might have a few decent ones but the long ones were probably cheap buys from Amazon


I wil try hooking up directly with some of the shorter cables I have and see if that eliminates issues. When I tested the shorter cables yesterday it was just through the switch and that was still causing the unsupported signal problem, so I'm sure there are issues with the switch, but I think maybe there are some cabling issues too with the longer cables as you guys have suspected. For the most part I am just trying to make sure there's not an issue with the projector. I can handle having to upgrade some cables and other components, but if there's an issue with the 8350 I'd like to find out within the 14-day return window rather than having to go through Epson with the warranty.
I doubt it is the projector.. I'd just focus on a direct connection with some good cables.. and set up everything for as short of a run as possilbe..


Try bluejeans cables or monoprice for reasonably priced, quality cables (I am a BJC guy myself.)


Both forum sponsors.. just scroll to the top of this or any page... you'll see a link to their sites..


Good luck...


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
About the only way I like to use screen shots, is when the screen shots (between two projectors) were taken in the same room, same screen, same scene and the same camera by the same person. Like what Art does with his Projector Reviews.
That is the accepted norm, but Art will himself tell ya that process still gets blasted by some.










For those of us without the resources and clout to get multiple Screens sent/set up, all that remains is effective camera work and honesty in presenting the images that result from such.


Yeah...that involves all the variables that come from everyone being/looking at things differently. And of course it does no good for anybody to say *"Hey! "I" know exactly what I'm doing...and what I'm seeing...and it's accurate!"* ...because that alone will draw critics like fresh Dog Droppings on a remote Forest Floor draws Flies from out of nowhere.


But the way to really judge is just how evenly light is presented across the entire image. A well balanced light output from the Screen is of utmost importance, and next comes correctly matching exposure with EVERY aspect of the composition, and composing the image to include as much variable lighting in the room as possible. That all lends such measures a degree of dependability as to let those who know such things ARE possible that they are doing things as best as can be accomplished.


Now that will never be enough for some to accept....but honestly, I see that coming mostly from those who couldn't take a decent Screen shot if their life depended on it.































Bensashi:


V1.4 Rated HDMI Cables for $1.00 ft @ http://www.compatiblecable.com Flat HDMI too! Flat Cables put far less stress on the input connection of any device, especially as the thicknesses go up with the more better Cables.


----------



## engelba

Quote:

Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* 
Try bluejeans cables or monoprice for reasonably priced, quality cables (I am a BJC guy myself.)


Ditto here; I have bluejeans hdmi cables myself with no problems... Good heavy gauge cables.... I would feel comfortable repeling off a wall with them 


But 1st verify the cable issue... As you stated, use a short cable directly connected to the PJ (i.e. even if you have to "hold" the PS3 close to the PJ to test) to see if the problem goes away... if it does, get a new cable.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19733402
> 
> 
> Bensashi:
> 
> 
> V1.4 Rated HDMI Cables for $1.00 ft @ http://www.compatiblecable.com Flat HDMI too! Flat Cables put far less stress on the input connection of any device, especially as the thicknesses go up with the more better Cables.



Which is why I suggest also using HDMI Port savers.. at $2 a pop, they take most of the strain off of heavy cable.









MonoPrice HDMI Port Savers 


I put them on almost every connection...


----------



## NickTF

I'm getting ever and ever closer to pulling the trigger on an 8350. I have talked to Miss. and also read his posted lense fix for those of us with ginormous bass output. Have any others experienced this issue and if so what have your fixes been if different than what was suggested with the foam packing? Thanks.


Right now it's between the 8350 for $1200 and the BenQ W6000 for $1500. the thing I don't like is the BenQ requires relocation of my mount to farther back and it's bulb life (and warranty) is not as good. Further, the BenQ does not appear to test as well on brightness and needed much calibration. Things I like include DLP and the fact it's a $3500 projector for $1500. The 8350 tested brighter and given i'm hardly ever viewing in a pitch black scenario not sure i'd notice the better blacks contrast of the 6000. The sharpness may be better however.


Any input is appreciated.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/19732897
> 
> 
> 
> But I suspect you are correct... 25/50 foot runs are long for HDMI...
> 
> 
> That device you linked to looks great..



I know usually 50ft is the limit but I'm running a 35ft CL2 HDMI cable in my wall, 6 ft CL2 HDMI cable from my receiver to the wall a standard 10 ft HDMI then from the wall to the 8350. No flicker issues at all.

I had the same setup with my Sanyo Z2000 with no issues.

99% of the content I watch is 1080p blu-ray.


*All cables are from Monoprice.


----------



## engelba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19733402
> 
> 
> For those of us without the resources and clout to get multiple Screens sent/set up, all that remains is effective camera work and honesty in presenting the images that result from such.




I would concede that it can show relative differences between 2 setups, I am skeptical it can show an absolute differences... i.e. showing how it will look in your enviroment. I doubt the color/grayscale accuracy of both the camera taking the image and the display you are looking at it on.


For example stereodanman's shots showing the undersaturation issue with the Epson's (including the 8700UB and almost certainly the 8350)...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...41&postcount=2


----------



## soutthpaw

Are you running the HDMI through any type of audio receiver? not sure if it would affect the output but I have a similar setup.

I am running a 1.4 sleeze bay HDMI cable from my ps3 to an Onkyo 580? receiver then out via 35 ft HDMI to the 8350 and do not have any of the flicker issues. not sure if the Receiver does anything to the actual video signal when it sends it out though. Think I have a 5 or 10 foot cable from PS3 to Receiver.


I didn't know about monoprice or this forum when I got my projector else I would have bought all my connectors etc from them. I could of had a better looking and less money setup than what I got from Lowes... Oh well, live and learn


----------



## buster6070

I have my projector running off a 35ft. Flat HDMI Cable hooked up to a splitter connected to my reciever with a 3 or 4 ft HDMI cable. All my stuff is monoprice. But other forum members swear by BJC, and others have called Mississippi Man's suggested retailer and posted great feedback. Personally I plan on trying MM guy next time. I don't think you can go wrong between the 3.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NickTF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting ever and ever closer to pulling the trigger on an 8350. I have talked to Miss. and also read his posted lense fix for those of us with ginormous bass output. Have any others experienced this issue and if so what have your fixes been if different than what was suggested with the foam packing? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Right now it's between the 8350 for $1200 and the BenQ W6000 for $1500. the thing I don't like is the BenQ requires relocation of my mount to farther back and it's bulb life (and warranty) is not as good. Further, the BenQ does not appear to test as well on brightness and needed much calibration. Things I like include DLP and the fact it's a $3500 projector for $1500. The 8350 tested brighter and given i'm hardly ever viewing in a pitch black scenario not sure i'd notice the better blacks contrast of the 6000. The sharpness may be better however.
> 
> 
> Any input is appreciated.



Can't comment on the projector comparison as this is my first projector. I will say I am extremely impressed with the picture and brightness. Mine is setup in my living room with plenty of ambient light to deal with. But your screen choice can help with that as well. For the lens shift issue I just taped the adjustment controls with painters tape once they were setup correctly. Been a month now and no problems.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/19733856
> 
> 
> Which is why I suggest also using HDMI Port savers.. at $2 a pop, they take most of the strain off of heavy cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MonoPrice HDMI Port Savers
> 
> 
> I put them on almost every connection...



I wire my cables to a support so that the HDMI port is not supporting the cable.


----------



## bensashi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bensashi* /forum/post/19733257
> 
> 
> Thanks for all of the responses, guys. I will be doing some more testing today and trying out my Xbox as well. Just to clarify a few things:
> Bypassing the switch and hooking up directly to the PS3 (with the 25ft cable) removed the issues I was having with "signal not supported", but I was still having issues (I was not going through the switch in the video)
> my cables tend to be on the cheaper side, so I don't really know that they are brand name cables - I might have a few decent ones but the long ones were probably cheap buys from Amazon
> 
> 
> I wil try hooking up directly with some of the shorter cables I have and see if that eliminates issues. When I tested the shorter cables yesterday it was just through the switch and that was still causing the unsupported signal problem, so I'm sure there are issues with the switch, but I think maybe there are some cabling issues too with the longer cables as you guys have suspected. I'll also try playing around with the Xbox 360 in 1080p and see what I can find there. I guess the only stuff I can test is the dashboard and movie trailers...don't think there are any games supporting that resolution on the 360 (outside of Arcade at least).
> 
> 
> I'll keep everyone updated - really appreciate the feedback. For the most part I am just trying to make sure there's not an issue with the projector. I can handle having to upgrade some cables and other components, but if there's an issue with the 8350 I'd like to find out within the 14-day return window rather than having to go through Epson with the warranty.



Thanks again, guys. I tried hooking up to the projector directly with a small cable and noticed none of the previous issues, so it seems to be a combination of crappy switch and long/crappy cables. At least it's not the projector. I'll have to get some new cables at the least.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *engelba* /forum/post/19733915
> 
> 
> For example stereodanman's shots showing the undersaturation issue with the Epson's (including the 8700UB and almost certainly the 8350)...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...41&postcount=2



That would be a seriously wrong assumption, as the 8350 is not only brighter but universally is stated to have much better Color balance out of the Box than even the higher end Epsons of today, let alone the older models stereomandan used.


No matter....beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but it's also within the potential of whomever is doing the shooting.


I found it a little bit hilarious though that Stereomandan said the images were not tinkered with at all, yet then said he sharpened them.


Zat's OK though because using a 2mp Camera makes that necessary for some to get a decent shot...and BTW, the lower resolution requires less light, and that too also can skew the results considerably.


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19734026
> 
> 
> Can't comment on the projector comparison as this is my first projector. I will say I am extremely impressed with the picture and brightness. Mine is setup in my living room with plenty of ambient light to deal with. But your screen choice can help with that as well. For the lens shift issue I just taped the adjustment controls with painters tape once they were setup correctly. Been a month now and no problems.



Thank you. I'm going to make the purchase on the 8350 tomorrow it looks like. Got the local Best Buy to price match.


----------



## engelba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19734222
> 
> 
> That would be a seriously wrong assumption, as the 8350 is not only brighter but universally is stated to have much better Color balance out of the Box than even the higher end Epsons of today, let alone the older models stereomandan used



I have confirmed the undersaturation issue with my 8700 so it is not an unreasonable assumption to suspect the 8350 has the same issue. If anyone has calibrated a 8350, I would be really curious to see your CIE diagram showing 100%,75%,50%,25% saturation points.


I am highly skeptical that the grayscale/color accuracy is any better than the 8700 out of the box.


----------



## bensashi

I realize this is a bit OT but....


Since I've determined that in addition to some bad cabling, I have to replace my HDMI switch, does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably priced HDMI switch with optical inputs/outputs? Unfortunately my receiver doesn't have HDMI support so I need to run optical as well.


This may just be the incentive I need to finally upgrade my receiver...


----------



## petiteface

Hello all,

I just purchased an 8350 and I am projecting onto a large surface (10'*6') from a 20' distance.


I am using Natural with 7500K temp. The image is being projected on a DIY painted on an "orange-peel" wall using the tiddler's N9 (light gray) with 4:1 polycrylic option, & w/ two coats. I find that the image is quite dull (almost like the bulb is dulling out) and with a greenish tinge. In fact a large number of Netflix movies are actually quite unwatchable even in a light controlled room.


The only ones that appear to be somewhat decent are the animated ones in blu-ray.


I tried "Living" - colors are too messed up even with 9300K temp.

I tried gamma adjustments.


My source is a Samsung blu-ray player with netflic streaming option and I am using a 3' HDMI cable.


My projector before this one was an Infocus X1 and I distinctly recall the images having a lot more richness than the 8350.


Given the rave reviews, I am clearly doing something wrong. I am open to setting suggestions


----------



## fraisa

Edit.

Spoke with Epson USA

THey are totally out of stock of the 8350 and other models.

the 8350 is starting to become hard to find....


----------



## MississippiMan

If that isn't a 8350 being shown, it's not "OT Approved".


9350s are a different Model, same Lumens, but their higher price puts them elsewhere as well.


9700s even more so. And that is a Epson 9700....yes?


Can you edit in and replace it with anything that involves the 8350?


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bensashi* /forum/post/19734583
> 
> 
> I realize this is a bit OT but....
> 
> 
> Since I've determined that in addition to some bad cabling, I have to replace my HDMI switch, does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably priced HDMI switch with optical inputs/outputs? Unfortunately my receiver doesn't have HDMI support so I need to run optical as well.
> 
> 
> This may just be the incentive I need to finally upgrade my receiver...



More on topic than the screen shot wars going on the last couple pages... I initially used a MadCatz adaptor http://www.madcatz.com/productinfo.a...S3_Accessories 

It was the only switch I could find at the time about a year ago that had the optical in and out. sat on the shelf till a few weeks ago when I got my PJ.


it worked fine and has optical in and out for every port. when I got my Home Theater Receiver I no longer needed it as the Receiver does all the switching.

anyway if you want to try it I would sell it PM me.... still has box, inst. etc


----------



## WithAlligators

Hey folks,

So I brought my 8350 to the 'rents house for xmas and my father was impressed. So impressed that he might buy it off me. If he does, we'd like to go big. 150" screen would be nice, but unfortunately, it's got to be a pulldown or electric, as a fixed or diy swingup screen is inappropriate or impossible. And If that's the route, I'd like it to be tab tensioned. What do people think of this pj and the elite cinetension 2 cine grey screens? 1000 is about the upper limit. Think this PJ is up to filling that screen? What I would be very open to is buying a cheaper tab tensioned unit and spraying some maxxmud or silver fire on it. But I can't find any cheaper that are that big and tab tensioned. Also fine would be a manual (crank or whatever) tab tensioned screen. And that would also eliminate on fallible part (motor). Advice?

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## mekkerl

I thought I was sold on the 8350, until I did a little more reading. Has anyone considered a DLP projector in their research? (like the BenQ W1000+)


I've been reading some mixed reviews comparing the DLP to LCD; primarily the brightness and sharpness of the LCD is not up to the DLP.


Right now the BenQ is about $400-500 less than the 8350.


Thoughts?


----------



## fraisa

Still waiting to see those 6.gain ambient light screen shots

Better bust da move

nothing like the present......


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19736936
> 
> 
> I thought I was sold on the 8350, until I did a little more reading. Has anyone considered a DLP projector in their research? (like the BenQ W1000+)
> 
> 
> I've been reading some mixed reviews comparing the DLP to LCD; primarily the brightness and sharpness of the LCD is not up to the DLP.
> 
> 
> Right now the BenQ is about $400-500 less than the 8350.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



I doubt many in this forum jumped onto the 8350 bandwagon _without_ doing their research. I certainly would have gone with a Benq W6000 if I could have afforded it, and it had enough placement flexibility, but that was before the 8350 came out.

For me the placement flexibility, brightness, reviews by people who'd bought it and the reputation Epson's service had acquired in these forums was enough to convince me. Not to mention the price.


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/19736588
> 
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> So I brought my 8350 to the 'rents house for xmas and my father was impressed. So impressed that he might buy it off me. If he does, we'd like to go big. 150" screen would be nice, but unfortunately, it's got to be a pulldown or electric, as a fixed or diy swingup screen is inappropriate or impossible. And If that's the route, I'd like it to be tab tensioned. What do people think of this pj and the elite cinetension 2 cine grey screens? 1000 is about the upper limit. Think this PJ is up to filling that screen? What I would be very open to is buying a cheaper tab tensioned unit and spraying some maxxmud or silver fire on it. But I can't find any cheaper that are that big and tab tensioned. Also fine would be a manual (crank or whatever) tab tensioned screen. And that would also eliminate on fallible part (motor). Advice?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alex



I'm using a 106" cinetension2 cinegray screen and I'm happy with it. Not sure how the 8350 will handle a picture that big though. As far as the screens construction itself, I'm very happy with it. I had to run to Home Depot to get some srews to install it. It only came with bolts for drywall. I plan on spraying a silver fire mix on it in the next couple months, but got a few other projects gotta wrap up first. Plus gotta get some feedback on what mix is best for my situation and how to go about it. Only get once change on a Mfg. Screen and don't wanna screw it up. Let me know how it goes for you if you choose this option and apply silver fire. If you have any other questions about the cinetension2 I'd be happy to help best I can.


----------



## jbrentd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> So I brought my 8350 to the 'rents house for xmas and my father was impressed. So impressed that he might buy it off me. If he does, we'd like to go big. 150" screen would be nice, but unfortunately, it's got to be a pulldown or electric, as a fixed or diy swingup screen is inappropriate or impossible. And If that's the route, I'd like it to be tab tensioned. What do people think of this pj and the elite cinetension 2 cine grey screens? 1000 is about the upper limit. Think this PJ is up to filling that screen? What I would be very open to is buying a cheaper tab tensioned unit and spraying some maxxmud or silver fire on it. But I can't find any cheaper that are that big and tab tensioned. Also fine would be a manual (crank or whatever) tab tensioned screen. And that would also eliminate on fallible part (motor). Advice?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alex



I've got the 8350 on a 100" Cinetension2 and love it so far.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> i doubt many in this forum jumped onto the 8350 bandwagon without doing their research. I certainly would have gone with a benq w6000 if i could have afforded it, and it had enough placement flexibility, but that was before the 8350 came out.
> 
> For me the placement flexibility, brightness, reviews by people who'd bought it and the reputation epson's service had acquired in these forums was enough to convince me. Not to mention the price.



+1


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19736936
> 
> 
> I thought I was sold on the 8350, until I did a little more reading. Has anyone considered a DLP projector in their research? (like the BenQ W1000+)
> 
> 
> I've been reading some mixed reviews comparing the DLP to LCD; primarily the brightness and sharpness of the LCD is not up to the DLP.
> 
> 
> Right now the BenQ is about $400-500 less than the 8350.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



I was going to get the W1000 but then the 8350 came out by the time I was ready to buy. I convinced myself that the spinning color wheel and constantly running motor was just one more thing to fail on DLP's. Epson's extension of the bulb warranty to 2 yrs and their overall customer service seems very impressive. have no idea about BenQ's warranty dept. now if it was a tossup between the W6000 and te 8350 that would be a tough choice. If its your first projector you will be happy with either one. there are a lot of folks that get hooked on either LCD or DLP. Go compare in person before buying. just go with your gut feeling about which picture you like better as that is really what it comes down to.


----------



## newfmp3

I am going from dlp to LCD, a 4805 in focus. I have my concerns. I got 2 weeks before I see my 8350


----------



## NickTF

Bought an 8350 tonight and came home to find my current mount used previously for the Panny AX200 this is replacing did not have enough travel on the range of adjustment to get to the mounting holes. Went out in the garage and welded on some pieces, drilled new holes in the welded pieces, and painted it. Just went up in the attic to replace the power cord. Should be up and running tomorrow late morning hoping I made a good choice and feel confident I have!


P.S. I picked mine up from Best Buy. I got them to price match Projector People's $1199 deal. They dropped it down accordingly so with tax I paid $1197.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19737259
> 
> 
> I am going from dlp to LCD, a 4805 in focus. I have my concerns. I got 2 weeks before I see my 8350



Hmmmmm...............don't be concerned. This is waiting for you.





























122" Diagonal Silver Fire -- Epson 8350 -- Oppo BDP 83 BluRay DVD- 13' Throw @ Factory Default Settings


Many of these shots are taken in high Ambient light, some with Can Lights, or Sconces on Full



















































































The Screen under Flash


----------



## mhdiab

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100*
I run an AT screen in my dedicated room, but I have a High Power set up in my family room, so I am very familiar with the High Power screen. For the family room, I made an adjustable height pedestal to be able to get the projector to optimum viewing height. Projector and screen can be easily raised for Wii and Kinect. Since my projector is so heavy (nearly 30lbs) I installed gas springs in the pedestal so that I can raise and lower the projector with two fingers. The HP does have limitations, but set up correctly it is a great screen.
Exactly my point. Some issues to solve but yet to read a post from an unhappy HP owner


----------



## mjg100

A few things that you would be giving up, going with the Benq W1000. First of all, I would never consider the W1000 over the W1000+. The W1000+ has better contrast, faster color wheel and is a little cheaper street price. That said, the 8350 has better black level, though it is getting it by use of an iris. The placement flexability of lens shift is a small plus, but the much greater zoom is a big plus for the 8350. If you have low (7') ceilings, you can forget about using the Benq for a large (120") screen unless you have an AT screen. Even with an AT screen you would need keystone to fit a 120" picture in a room with 7' ceilings.


----------



## NickTF

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mhdiab* 
Exactly my point. Some issues to solve but yet to read a post from an unhappy HP owner
Yep. The added brightness within the viewing cone is simply extremely hard to beat imho. It does limit options given the required narrowing the angle between you and the projector but if achieved it's unreal. Had a Da-Lite HCMW screan and this Da-Lite HP on my DIY frame is light years ahead of it in my situation. Ofcourse I solved a few issues going from the HCMW Model C Drop Down to a fixed screen such as sag.


----------



## mekkerl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mekkerl* 
I thought I was sold on the 8350, until I did a little more reading. Has anyone considered a DLP projector in their research? (like the BenQ W1000+)


I've been reading some mixed reviews comparing the DLP to LCD; primarily the brightness and sharpness of the LCD is not up to the DLP.


Right now the BenQ is about $400-500 less than the 8350.


Thoughts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
A few things that you would be giving up, going with the Benq W1000. First of all, I would never consider the W1000 over the W1000+. The W1000+ has better contrast, faster color wheel and is a little cheaper street price. That said, the 8350 has better black level, though it is getting it by use of an iris. The placement flexability of lens shift is a small plus, but the much greater zoom is a big plus for the 8350. If you have low (7') ceilings, you can forget about using the Benq for a large (120") screen unless you have an AT screen. Even with an AT screen you would need keystone to fit a 120" picture in a room with 7' ceilings.
Yeah, the W1000+ is what I was looking at.

This is good to know -- my ceilings are 7'-4"

Now just need to justify the $500 difference with the wife!


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19738602
> 
> 
> Yeah, the W1000+ is what I was looking at.
> 
> This is good to know -- my ceilings are 7'-4"
> 
> Now just need to justify the $500 difference with the wife!



I don't know how you could get a sharper or brighter pic from the W1000+ compared to the 8350. I have really sharp images using the WOW disk to set it, and my sharpness setting is below midrange. from what I read the DLP's have more of a cinema look.


MississippiMan, those are a nice set of images. they do give a potential owner an idea of what sort of images they can expect from this PJ... (please no wisecrack comments from the peanut gallery! you know who you are. F____a)


----------



## soutthpaw

Hopefully I just missed it in the instructions, but is there a way to rename the saved favorites from the default cinema, living room etc to something more useful?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm...............don't be concerned. This is waiting for you.
> 
> 
> 122" Diagonal Silver Fire -- Epson 8350 -- Oppo BDP 83 BluRay DVD- 13' Throw @ Factory Default Settings
> 
> 
> Many of these shots are taken in high Ambient light, some with Can Lights, or Sconces on Full
> 
> 
> The Screen under Flash



You tease!


Yeah I figure just about anything I buy right now is probably an upgrade from the old 4805...she was a good pj in her day.


I would love to see a hp 2.8 sample against your silver fire screen.


Your also throwing from 13'. I do not know the 8350's sweetspot, but right now my pj is at 16'. I am considering moving it to 12.5 for a 110" screen


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19738723
> 
> 
> I don't know how you could get a sharper or brighter pic from the W1000+ compared to the 8350. I have really sharp images using the WOW disk to set it, and my sharpness setting is below midrange. from what I read the DLP's have more of a cinema look.
> 
> 
> MississippiMan, those are a nice set of images. they do give a potential owner an idea of what sort of images they can expect from this PJ... (please no wisecrack comments from the peanut gallery! you know who you are. F____a)



You would need to view them side by side, but I would not be surprised if the W1000+ was indeed sharper. That is one advantage of single chip DLP over three panel LCD. As with anything HT related, you have to pick your poison and deal with compromise no matter what direction that you go. Both DLP and LCD have advantages and disadvantages.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19739958
> 
> 
> You tease!
> 
> 
> Yeah I figure just about anything I buy right now is probably an upgrade from the old 4805...she was a good pj in her day.
> 
> 
> I would love to see a hp 2.8 sample against your silver fire screen.
> 
> 
> Your also throwing from 13'. I do not know the 8350's sweetspot, but right now my pj is at 16'. I am considering moving it to 12.5 for a 110" screen



The big advantage in what MM is showing is the off angle viewing and not having as much restriction on projector placement VS the HP. If room is narrow it will be less of a concern. If room/seating is wide then it becomes very important.


----------



## AJT2010

I recently purchased a Epson 8350 and had it stationed on a shelf. I know plan on having it ceiling mounted. Does anyone have any suggestion on a mount that will be almost flush or no more than 3" in height?


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19737259
> 
> 
> I am going from dlp to LCD, a 4805 in focus. I have my concerns. I got 2 weeks before I see my 8350



Well I had a Marantz VP4001 720DLP & Im keeping my 8350 ! Pros are better color Brighter and MUCH MUCH Quieter than your 4805 ( I know because that was my first projector. )The only cons so far are blacks are quite as good and I do have that little bit of red haze in the corner- both are really nit picky points at this price range ( I got an open box for 900.00 ). Im sure you'll be ecstatic over your purchase. For me 1080P is a definite improvement even over 720P .


----------



## fraisa

Again still no screen shots of that 6. gain screen....

hope to see something before the end of the year...

Bust da move


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19741110
> 
> 
> Again still no screen shots of that 6. gain screen....
> 
> hope to see something before the end of the year...
> 
> Bust da move



Did you miss the post where he said he would post screen shots once he bought his new projector that he is currently shopping for?


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AJT2010* /forum/post/19740966
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a Epson 8350 and had it stationed on a shelf. I know plan on having it ceiling mounted. Does anyone have any suggestion on a mount that will be almost flush or no more than 3" in height?



I was faced with a similar install challenge and spent time looking for a flush-mount product - I couldn't find exactly what I needed, so ended up fabricating my own mount.


FWIW, I discovered this thread - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=232749 - after I finished... If you are reasonably handy, many of the examples shown could easily be adapted to provide the reduced clearance and most are pretty easy to copy.


Dave


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AJT2010* /forum/post/19740966
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a Epson 8350 and had it stationed on a shelf. I know plan on having it ceiling mounted. Does anyone have any suggestion on a mount that will be almost flush or no more than 3" in height?



I would look at flat panel HDTV mounts and adapt one to work for your needs. there are quite a few out there that have part A that slides into Part B and usually only sit a couple of inches off the wall


something like This


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AJT2010* /forum/post/19740966
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a Epson 8350 and had it stationed on a shelf. I know plan on having it ceiling mounted. Does anyone have any suggestion on a mount that will be almost flush or no more than 3" in height?




The Chief RPA 168 "PJ Dedicated Mount is what you want. Solid, low profile, you can expect 4" when all is said and done.


Looking for something "Flush" could be found in in acquiring a plate of Clear 1/2" Plexi and drilling holes through it at the mounting hole locations. If you made the Sheet be wide enough to be able to then mount the plate to the Ceiling with Screws/Anchors at each side...you'd have something Flush.


.....and potential over heating issues as well. A PJ inverted so close to the Ceiling leaves hout ait produced by the PJ nowhere to go but around the PJ it came out of. And....when the room is being heated (winter) there will be a blanket of the warmest air in the room at ceiling height to begin with.


Many would like to just stick a PJ up with Velcro or Duct Tape and be done....while some want their PJ, but they don't want it hangin' about.


The ones with real issues....7' ceilings and "low down" screens have to accept there must be a minimum amount of clearance between the PJ and the Ceiling...or consider instead a Shelf Mount solution. The thinnest Mounts around are all 4" to 5" and most are junk...or not designed to suppot a 24lb PJ. The Chief is everything you want...and very little you don't...except it will set you back $135.00


So tell me why the PJ MUST be almost Flush? Tell me if you have any Attic space directly above? Tell me how nice and discreet you want it to look....or rough & tumble.


Just give me as much detailed info as you can about your situation...screen AND PJ, plus the room and I'll see what best solution I can come up with. I come up with 'em all the time, and making things look the best they can affordably is what I'm pretty much all about.


----------



## Mupi

So what do you guys think? I can see some haze in that 8350 screen shot.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19737570


----------



## Jamosb78

I have about 80 hours on my 8350. I have what I think is a dust blob. It's a green, circular area about a couple inches in size on a 100" display.


I'm thinking it's a dust blob based on search results here from people with similar issues.


Anyone encounter this on an 8350?

Should I blow air into the unit in hopes of dislodging the dust?

Or is this something I should contact Epson about?


Thanks for any advice.


----------



## fraisa

Hello Fans ,

Happy New Year To All


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19745584
> 
> 
> I have about 80 hours on my 8350. I have what I think is a dust blob. It's a green, circular area about a couple inches in size on a 100" display.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking it's a dust blob based on search results here from people with similar issues.
> 
> 
> Anyone encounter this on an 8350?
> 
> Should I blow air into the unit in hopes of dislodging the dust?
> 
> Or is this something I should contact Epson about?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



u can try gently blowing compressed air


----------



## dcapache




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19745584
> 
> 
> I have about 80 hours on my 8350. I have what I think is a dust blob. It's a green, circular area about a couple inches in size on a 100" display.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking it's a dust blob based on search results here from people with similar issues.
> 
> 
> Anyone encounter this on an 8350?
> 
> Should I blow air into the unit in hopes of dislodging the dust?
> 
> Or is this something I should contact Epson about?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



I have around 40 hours on my 8350 and yes I can see a white circular area (probably green as it is very dim, about 3 inches in diameter) near center right of my 120" display. It's only noticeable in very dark scenes though. I wonder what can be done to get rid of it. Thanks.


Henry


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *domingos1965* 
u can try gently blowing compressed air
Actually get a Camera cleaning kit.

it will come with a air blow device that will gentle blow air for you...

a good Kit will come with a cleaning cloth, lens cleaner bottle, duster brush, and blow device.....

find them at a camera store...


..........

fraisa

Got new screenies up over at the 9700 ub thread check them out....


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
The Chief RPA 168 "PJ Dedicated Mount is what you want. Solid, low profile, you can expect 4" when all is said and done.


Looking for something "Flush" could be found in in acquiring a plate of Clear 1/2" Plexi and drilling holes through it at the mounting hole locations. If you made the Sheet be wide enough to be able to then mount the plate to the Ceiling with Screws/Anchors at each side...you'd have something Flush.


.....and potential over heating issues as well. A PJ inverted so close to the Ceiling leaves hout ait produced by the PJ nowhere to go but around the PJ it came out of. And....when the room is being heated (winter) there will be a blanket of the warmest air in the room at ceiling height to begin with.


Many would like to just stick a PJ up with Velcro or Duct Tape and be done....while some want their PJ, but they don't want it hangin' about.


The ones with real issues....7' ceilings and "low down" screens have to accept there must be a minimum amount of clearance between the PJ and the Ceiling...or consider instead a Shelf Mount solution. The thinnest Mounts around are all 4" to 5" and most are junk...or not designed to suppot a 24lb PJ. The Chief is everything you want...and very little you don't...except it will set you back $135.00


So tell me why the PJ MUST be almost Flush? Tell me if you have any Attic space directly above? Tell me how nice and discreet you want it to look....or rough & tumble.


Just give me as much detailed info as you can about your situation...screen AND PJ, plus the room and I'll see what best solution I can come up with. I come up with 'em all the time, and making things look the best they can affordably is what I'm pretty much all about.


Also the Epson Pro 800 Premier Mount is another good Mount,

and its designed for Epson Projectors,

Flush or extended you have the choice...

No 4 mount arms but it comes with a mount Plate that screws into the 4 holes on the bottom ,

then you put the mount into the base and as you swivel the mount around it locks into place.

Tighten down the back safety lock.

and your done.

you have 2 Finger paded adjustment knobs for dialing the projector in to center.

Awesome Awesome mount

Premier Made these mounts for Epson Units .....


----------



## Skywalking

I recently upgraded from the Infocus Screenplay 4805 to the Epson 8350 and thought I'd share my experience. After reading the PJ review on projector central and coming across this thread, I decided to pull the trigger. Got a great deal from Projector People, $1,099 cyber Monday special (was impossible to pass up)! After making adjustments on the 8350, overall I am very pleased with this projector. In the process of setting everything up, I ended up replacing most of my gear (PJ mount, cables, DVD player, HDMI switch). The old 4805 mount was a Chief RPA series LCD/DLP ceiling mount. The bracket for the 4805 did not fit the 8350. I ended up ordering the Chief RPA Custom Inverted LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount from buy.com.

http://www.buy.com/prod/chief-rpa-cu...203087402.html 


What I learned later was that the mount was identical to my old mount. The only thing that was different was the bracket that attaches to the PJ. Upon ceiling mounting the 8350 I noticed a keystoning issue several in this thread experienced. The Chief mount has pitch, roll, yaw adjustments. Once I adjusted them, the PJ was square with the screen... keystoning issue solved.


I replaced my 25ft DVI cable with a 25ft 22AWG CL2 Silver Plated High Speed HDMI Cable - Black from monoprice.com

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


My old push button DVI/HDMI switch was not working well with this PJ. The PJ would intermitantly lose sync with the DVD player or satellite box. Sometimes I couldn't get an image at all. I ordered a new HDMI switch from monoprice as well...


4x2 True Matrix High Speed HDMI Powered Switch w/ Remote Controller (HDMI x.v. Color)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Went with the 4x2 switch because I plan on wall mounting a LED TV and having a motorized screen drop in front of it eventually. The new HDMI switch resolved any sync / handshake issues between the PJ and DVD player, satellite box.


Upgraded old OPPO DVD player with a Samsung Blu-ray player (was $139 at Best Buy just before Christmas).


Samsung - Internet Connectable/Wi-Fi Built-In Blu-ray Disc Player

Model: BDC6500XAA

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+...&skuId=9776791 


After hooking everything up and adjusting PJ settings, overall I was please with the investment. The picture quality and brightness were both improved considerably. In a bright room setting, it's way better than the 4805 for obvious reasons. However, I (like many) was not impressed with the black levels, coming from a 4805 that excelled in this category. I used Art's settings and still was not satisfied. I ended up playing with the settings some more, using a custom gamma setting, chosing a dark image and adjusting the black level to my liking. After this adjustment I am now happy to say that I am completely satisfied with the 8350. I watched 2 movies after this adjustment, The Matrix and Avatar, both on Blu-ray. I was blown away by the image quality. I was also pleased with the black levels I was able to achieve. Thank you to those who have provided great info / advice in this thread. It has certainly helped me along the way. Hopefully someone will benefit from some of the info I've provided as well.


----------



## mhdiab

Skywalk - great writeup - Thanks! Do you mind sharing your settings? I know it is different for everyone but a few to test out is always helpful


----------



## fraisa

Skywalking Great right up,

hope your post some screen shots...


----------



## mekkerl

Can someone tell me what the lens shift capabilities of the 8350 is?


Exactly, how far off center can I put the projector (left/right)?


I will be ceiling mounting the projector.


I can't seem to find this information on any review or spec sites.


Thanks!


----------



## newfmp3

Skywalk, thanks for the excellent write up


Care to share what settings you used to get good blacks? How do you find the LCD vs dlp for motion? I am also coming from a 4805


What screen r u using?


----------



## Skywalking

Sure thing. Keep in mind ambient light is fully controlled (lights out), projecting on a 1.0 gain Da-Lite matte white screen, and the source material (blu-ray, 1080p) is a dark film to begin with. Projector settings below:


Color mode: Cinema

Brightness: 0

Contrast: 5

Color saturation: 1

Tint: 0

Sharpness: Standard

Abs color temp: 6500k

Skin tone: 3

Advanced, gamma, customized. Color tone -15 (first value)

Power consumption: Eco

Auto iris: High speed


Signal

Aspect: Normal

Noise reduction: 1

Epson super white: Off

Overscan: Off

Hdmi video range: Auto


Basically, I just played with the settings until I found an image I was happy with. I use these settings with the lights off, watching blu-ray movies. I use the other settings the pj offers when I have the lights on. I'm sure some would look at these numbers and say thanks but no thanks. They're not professionally calibrated, just settings I came up with while trying to achieve better black levels.


----------



## Skywalking




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19748770
> 
> 
> Skywalking Great right up,
> 
> hope your post some screen shots...



Screen shots as requested.


----------



## Skywalking




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19750288
> 
> 
> How do you find the LCD vs dlp for motion? I am also coming from a 4805
> 
> 
> What screen r u using?



I never noticed any motion issues with the 4805 DLP. On the 8350, I thought scenes with a lot of motion tended to be a bit choppy at times. I set my blu-ray player to 1080p, 24fps which seemed to improve things. For my screen, I'm using a Da-Lite Cinema Contour, matte white screen (1.0 gain).


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19750209
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me what the lens shift capabilities of the 8350 is?
> 
> 
> Exactly, how far off center can I put the projector (left/right)?
> 
> 
> I will be ceiling mounting the projector.
> 
> 
> I can't seem to find this information on any review or spec sites.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



here taken from owners manual


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Skywalking* /forum/post/19751014
> 
> 
> Sure thing. Keep in mind ambient light is fully controlled (lights out), projecting on a 1.0 gain Da-Lite matte white screen, and the source material (blu-ray, 1080p) is a dark film to begin with. Projector settings below:
> 
> 
> Color mode: Cinema
> 
> Brightness: 0
> 
> Contrast: 5
> 
> Color saturation: 1
> 
> Tint: 0
> 
> Sharpness: Standard
> 
> Abs color temp: 6500k
> 
> Skin tone: 3
> 
> Advanced, gamma, customized. Color tone -15 (first value)
> 
> Power consumption: Eco
> 
> Auto iris: High speed
> 
> 
> Signal
> 
> Aspect: Normal
> 
> Noise reduction: 1
> 
> Epson super white: Off
> 
> Overscan: Off
> 
> Hdmi video range: Auto
> 
> 
> Basically, I just played with the settings until I found an image I was happy with. I use these settings with the lights off, watching blu-ray movies. I use the other settings the pj offers when I have the lights on. I'm sure some would look at these numbers and say thanks but no thanks. They're not professionally calibrated, just settings I came up with while trying to achieve better black levels.



I would be putting your auto iris to normal../.

I hate the High setting myself...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Skywalking* /forum/post/19751042
> 
> 
> Screen shots as requested.



Nice...

Would work on getting your blacks a bit blacker to get the blend better from the black bars..


----------



## jbal5

Bare with me as I am new to AVS Forums however have searched and searched the net for info and just can't get what I am looking for. I just purchased the 8350 (first projector) and will be connecting a BR player and HD Cable box both via HDMI cables to an AVR then HDMI to the 8350. I need an AVR so the question is should I be looking at one with upscaling or not? Denon has one that I believe does HDMI to HDMI upscaling and the sales rep said it would help with non HD cable channels making them look better. The unit costs a few hundred $ more than the one I am considering that doesn't do upscaling. Should I be looking at an AVR that does upscaling or not?


----------



## MississippiMan

jbl5


If you do in fact watch a lot of Standard Definition content, or even 1080i HD and use a "GOOD" 1080p up scaling DVD, it can make a difference. However poor SD broadcasts cannot be magically made to look good so the improvements will be subjective and wholly dependent upon how good they start out being initially.


Check out the OPPO BD 83 on Amazon. You can get a Used one for under $600 and that's killer for a $1400-1500.00 BD-DVD that's rated No#1 at Up Scaling


----------



## scl23enn4m3

Can anyone suggest a ceiling mount in the $50 range that will allow me to route the wires through it? There is one on eBay with that feature for $30, but I don't trust it at that price. It's going to be installed above drywall, so once it's up, there is no turning back.


Edit: Don't get offended MississippiMan, your suggestion was too pricey for me







, but I'm trying to run with your concept!


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3* /forum/post/19752969
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a ceiling mount in the $50 range that will allow me to route the wires through it? There is one on eBay with that feature for $30, but I don't trust it at that price. It's going to be installed above drywall, so once it's up, there is no turning back.
> 
> 
> Edit: Don't get offended MississippiMan, your suggestion was too pricey for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'm trying to run with your concept!



I would not install above the drywall. I would install blocking right behind the drywall so that any mount (think future) can be used. I would also install conduit (think future) for cabling needs. If you are wanting to recess the mount into the ceiling so that the projector is closer to the ceiling, then I would box out the ceiling so that the mount is still on the face of the drywall. Things change too fast in this industry to lock everything in permanent.


Added

If you do not want the block out to show, just cover the block out with a wood panel. Cut a hole in the panel for the tube of the mount. You can install trim around the panel to dress it up. You could also use a metal access panel, with a hole cut in it.


----------



## NickTF

Watched my first 1080p source last night, a Monsters vs. Alien Blu Ray and all I can say is HOLY CHITE!!!!!!!! I didn't know what I was missing. The panny ax200 I had was very nice but this projector is a definite extremely noticeable upgrade for me. 1080p on a 106" screen is very noticeable to this viewer.


Edit: Also wanted to add about the loss of lense position issue. My projector only has a few hours on it but during watching the above movie I had the IB sub including four 18" Fi Audio IB woofers with 30mm xmax turned up pretty good, enough to knock down the normal things which fall down during low frequencies. I noticed no loss of lense position and have not taped, shimmed, or gone to any other measure to keep the lense from moving.


p.p.s I find the lense shift controls in this projector much better than the joy stick which the Panny Ax200 had. Much much easier to adjust.


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19751814
> 
> 
> Nice...
> 
> Would work on getting your blacks a bit blacker to get the blend better from the black bars..
> 
> This is one benifit of a black diamond screen,
> 
> blacks are black with lil adjustments.
> 
> but those are very good screenies
> 
> Well Done.



Why do you suggest a screen that is twice the cost of the projector? If someone wanted to get a $2000 screen he or she would not be getting a $1200 projector!


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Skywalking* /forum/post/19751042
> 
> 
> Screen shots as requested.



The black levels on those shots look fine to me. No need to spend $2000. For the black bars I use felt cloth. The factory cut edge is perfectly straight. I will post a pic of my set up later. I just pull it down manually for the top and for the bottom I have made a simple mechanism where I can slide it up. BTW I dont have a 8350 yet. Still using Infocus IN72


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19753593
> 
> 
> Why do you suggest a screen that is twice the cost of the projector? If someone wanted to get a $2000 screen he or she would not be getting a $1200 projector!



.


----------



## Kiddikop

Hi Folks, am new to this thread as far as posting goes. I bought my 8350 after about page 17 of this thread. Couldn't really get it set up until Christmas because it's going into a new basement/theater room in a log cabin that I will eventually be retiring at....3 hours away in the mountains from where I live now. So, had no chance or time to do the install for about 6 weeks after I purchased it. Had been chomping at the bit to see how it looked, also a little anxious that I could not even preview it (no space in my current house), and was getting worried that with the time lapse, if there were any problems HH Gregg might have a problem with a return. So, late on Christmas Eve I made it out to the cabin, had to set up all my speakers, equipment, etc. About midnight I was able to turn it on.....I should have never worried. Between the 5 of us, over 9 days, we watched at least 20 movies, numerous football games, played PS3 games, and generally just relished the beauty of this projector. It's my first projecter, and thanks to all of you, I have picked a winner. Thus far, I have done no tweeking...just straight out of the box. Perhaps I will tweek it some later, using Art's or others' suggestions, but right now I am in love! I was running out of money after buying new speakers, so I skimped on the mounting bracket....ended up getting one of the cheap ones from monoprice, and used a hard plastic cutting board to adapt as a mounting plate. It works, but it's not pretty...plan to go with the Chief as soon as I can collect a few more dollars. My room is smallish, about 16 by 17. I bought new Mirage OMD-5's all around and the OMD-5 center. Shamed to say but ran out of money for the sub so am using an old KLH sub....it was okay. Actually, the speakers are my biggest disappointement. Don't get me wrong, the sound was great, but they are bipolar, so I didn't notice the distinct seperation of bullets whizzing across the screen that I am used to. I think I'll have to go back over to the speaker forum to get some more advice there. Anyway, just wanted to thank all of you for this thread, and especially Mississippi Man for starting it. It is a great thing to see so many people, especially kids, how their faces light up when they see these movies! I will be retiring in a relatively impoverished area in West Virginia, and some of these kids rarely get a chance to go to the movies. I am now the most popular person in our canyon!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiddikop* /forum/post/19753869
> 
> 
> Hi Folks, am new to this thread as far as posting goes. I bought my 8350 after about page 17 of this thread. Couldn't really get it set up until Christmas because it's going into a new basement/theater room in a log cabin that I will eventually be retiring at....3 hours away in the mountains from where I live now. So, had no chance or time to do the install for about 6 weeks after I purchased it. Had been chomping at the bit to see how it looked, also a little anxious that I could not even preview it (no space in my current house), and was getting worried that with the time lapse, if there were any problems HH Gregg might have a problem with a return. So, late on Christmas Eve I made it out to the cabin, had to set up all my speakers, equipment, etc. About midnight I was able to turn it on.....I should have never worried. Between the 5 of us, over 9 days, we watched at least 20 movies, numerous football games, played PS3 games, and generally just relished the beauty of this projector. It's my first projecter, and thanks to all of you, I have picked a winner. Thus far, I have done no tweeking...just straight out of the box. Perhaps I will tweek it some later, using Art's or others' suggestions, but right now I am in love! I was running out of money after buying new speakers, so I skimped on the mounting bracket....ended up getting one of the cheap ones from monoprice, and used a hard plastic cutting board to adapt as a mounting plate. It works, but it's not pretty...plan to go with the Chief as soon as I can collect a few more dollars. My room is smallish, about 16 by 17. I bought new Mirage OMD-5's all around and the OMD-5 center. Shamed to say but ran out of money for the sub so am using an old KLH sub....it was okay. Actually, the speakers are my biggest disappointement. Don't get me wrong, the sound was great, but they are bipolar, so I didn't notice the distinct seperation of bullets whizzing across the screen that I am used to. I think I'll have to go back over to the speaker forum to get some more advice there. Anyway, just wanted to thank all of you for this thread, and especially Mississippi Man for starting it. It is a great thing to see so many people, especially kids, how their faces light up when they see these movies! I will be retiring in a relatively impoverished area in West Virginia, and some of these kids rarely get a chance to go to the movies. I am now the most popular person in our canyon!



That is totally awesome....


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I would not install above the drywall. I would install blocking right behind the drywall so that any mount (think future) can be used. I would also install conduit (think future) for cabling needs. If you are wanting to recess the mount into the ceiling so that the projector is closer to the ceiling, then I would box out the ceiling so that the mount is still on the face of the drywall. Things change too fast in this industry to lock everything in permanent.
> 
> 
> Added
> 
> If you do not want the block out to show, just cover the block out with a wood panel. Cut a hole in the panel for the tube of the mount. You can install trim around the panel to dress it up. You could also use a metal access panel, with a hole cut in it.



The projector isn't going to be changed for at least the next ten years. I don't want a panel either due to the lines that would show up. I understand the risks involved with this setup, but in my situation the benefits far outweigh them. Thanks for the reply though.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petiteface* /forum/post/19734868
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I just purchased an 8350 and I am projecting onto a large surface (10'*6') from a 20' distance.
> 
> 
> I am using Natural with 7500K temp. The image is being projected on a DIY painted on an "orange-peel" wall using the tiddler's N9 (light gray) with 4:1 polycrylic option, & w/ two coats. I find that the image is quite dull



As an experiment I would try a closer throw. I had a 20' throw and was never SUPER happy with the image. I moved to 13' and its a totally different pj.


----------



## JHawk

I decided on the 8350 this past weekend after much research and an endorsement from an installer at a local A/V company that my employer does business with. I am hugely impressed with the picture quality directly out of the box. I'm a big college basketball fan(check my name for who I think is going to the final four). ESPN-HD looks awesome hooked up through my Tivo-HD. My ever skeptical wife was totally blown away.......all I need now is a fridge, some beer, ribs and I may never leave my man cave.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.


----------



## tbreyman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fraisa*
I would be putting your auto iris to normal../.

I hate the High setting myself...








Curious. Why?


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tbreyman* 
Curious. Why?
I find that it puts too much light into the image.

When watching films i always turn my auto iris off.

i just like the natural image that is produced with out it..


Now when it comes to other media like HDTV or Video Games i always put it to normal.

Again I dont put it on high at all,

but thats me...


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19755577
> 
> 
> I find that it puts too much light into the image.
> 
> When watching films i always turn my auto iris off.
> 
> i just like the natural image that is produced with out it..
> 
> 
> Now when it comes to other media like HDTV or Video Games i always put it to normal.
> 
> Again I dont put it on high at all,
> 
> but thats me...



I have been wondering about the auto iris settings. when you switch it to off what position does the iris default to? 0-50-100% open etc. In high speed how many times a second does it readjust compared to normal mode??


----------



## TUPPERNHIGH

Hey guys, I've been following this Epson 8350 forum since it first started a few months ago. I appreciate all the contributions that have been made. I have a question regarding this projector. I am curious.. so this projector is 60hz not 120hz... now does this make a significant difference for projectors as it does with TVs? I feel as though it makes the picture quite smoother with HDTV displays is the impact equally as significant with projectors? looking at the Epson 8350 in particular.


----------



## PoppaPig

Another happy 8350 user. Been running a Panasonic AE900U (LCD w/lens shift ect) for the past 5.5 years. 3 bulbs later and a degraded image I decided a replacement was in order. The first decision was to move to the Epson line from Panasonic. Although I was happy with the Panasonic I was unimpressed with bulb life. I never made it to 2000 hrs on any of the three bulbs. One burn-out and two faded after 1500 hrs.


The next decision was to save the 800 bux and take a step down from my previous price range of 2K. I liked the idea of additional lumens, 4K hr life, any output mode. The panny's bulbs fading tendencies did this to me... Turned me into a lumen nut..


My home theatre is dedicated with full lighting control. I primary stream netflix, play Xbox 360 FPS games and Kinect and of course tons of football. This 8350 is IT. At 11'6" onto a 106" 1.0 gain dalite pull down screen this thing is more than exceptional. I read every review and every comment within what is now a 90 page thread and people can stop with the "for the money" caveat to this machine being a solid choice. This isnt a fantastic projector "for the money". It is simply a fantastic projector.


I am an avid Halo MP gamer. Where this unit amped up my Halo enjoyment is in the shadow detail.. OMGoodness you have no idea what this does for multiplayer competition. Shadow detail and in game blk levels are excellent. Kinect is a beautiful thing at 106". I removed my front row to accomodate the Kinect playfield requirements and never looked back (Still have two rows of seating for 9 people).


One thing having the higher fidelity does is frustrate me with Direct TV's video compression. Netflix too. "HD" broadcasts and streams are clearly around 480P 720i in appearance due to their compression. I'm installing an off-air as soon as the roof thaws out. Blu-ray playing in 1080P further solidified the fact DTV is shameless in their reduction of resolution levels.. Sorry DTV, you're too expensive to send me poop.


That said my first TV moment with the 8350 was an HD broacast of Wall-E and I pee'd a little.. Initial fire-up of this projector is a very exciting moment. Bright, defined, contrast. Everything an all around user would want out of Video equipment.


Football looks really great. High glare/Light filled stadiums tend to wash the green out of the grass a bit. Flesh tones are spot on and dedicated backdrops for prime time commentary is awesome.


Live "HD" broadcast of the Seattle spaceneedle fireworks celebration really showcased the blk levels of the unit (I did use Art's settings). Several beautiful "Oh WOOOW" moments as the colors and camera gleam of the light show reflected off the camera lens..


----------



## 96redformula

Damn I cursed myself posting last week about my bulb still going at 670 hrs. It is now officially dead and Epson has another on the way to me







.


----------



## akrasna

I'm sure I will find the answer if I go through all 89 pages in this thread (maybe someday we can get a forum section and not just an eternal thread) but- should I understand - that during the 2 year warantee period Epson will also cover bulb replacement?


That is great (especially if I did not even realize that)


Thanks

Allen


----------



## EJ

PoppaPig,

I have also been a Panasonic user since about '04, first with the ae500, then ax200. The lamp has 3500 hours in eco mode and still, looks pretty good, but I won't be spending $400 on a new lamp, and I may try to get a small amount on craig's list and make the move to the 1080p world!


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19759404
> 
> 
> I'm sure I will find the answer if I go through all 89 pages in this thread (maybe someday we can get a forum section and not just an eternal thread) but- should I understand - that during the 2 year warantee period Epson will also cover bulb replacement?
> 
> 
> That is great (especially if I did not even realize that)
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allen



I originally thought the same but the warranty says the bulb is only covered for 90 days. Would someone like to add to this?


----------



## eat meat




> Quote:
> If you encounter an early lamp failure on any Epson 1080p model, Epson asks that you contact them directly at 800-637-7661 (use your PIN on PrivateLine Support Card).


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354


----------



## soutthpaw

Anyone know if Epson is working on a fix or redesign of this bulb to rectify the problem over the long term. Would be nice to know that sometime over the next 2 years before the warranty expires that they have got the bulbs lasting the rated 4000hrs.


----------



## jandawil

This question has sort of been asked and answered in some other forums, but not specific to my scenario. I have a Yamaha RX-V2600 which is a fantastic receiver, but will only output 1080i via its HDMI port. My question is will there be any difference if I have my PS3 output 1080i as opposed to 1080P and have that go through my receiver and have the 8350 deinterlace it to 1080P? The other option is get an HDMI splitter and send 1080P straight to my projector. I just want to ensure I get the best possible image.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19760959
> 
> 
> This question has sort of been asked and answered in some other forums, but not specific to my scenario. I have a Yamaha RX-V2600 which is a fantastic receiver, but will only output 1080i via its HDMI port. My question is will there be any difference if I have my PS3 output 1080i as opposed to 1080P and have that go through my receiver and have the 8350 deinterlace it to 1080P? The other option is get an HDMI splitter and send 1080P straight to my projector. I just want to ensure I get the best possible image.



If the receiver can only output 1080i, I doubt that it can decode HD audio; I just checked - it can't. So there's no reason for you to use HDMI for audio in that case. If the PS-3 has optical or coax digital audio out, the cheapest would be to run the HDMI direct to the Epson PJ, and a SPDIF for audio to the receiver. That would be more cost effective than getting another HDMI cable and a splitter. Of course, this assumes that the PS3 has a SPDIF and that it can send audio and video out from different outputs.


----------



## nineset

My guess having played around with getting the lowest video delay I can on my 8350 for gaming would be that if you use the 1080i setting on the ps3 and passthrough your receiver that you will see some (20-40ms (off hand estimate)) of video lag created when your projector is upscaling to native resolution at 1080p. This may intoduce some bluring or motion artifacts, but you may not notice them. The resolution will essentially be the same 1080p or 1080i.


Monoprice has some nice switches and splitters if you decide to go that way. Good luck.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19761141
> 
> 
> If the receiver can only output 1080i, I doubt that it can decode HD audio; I just checked - it can't. So there's no reason for you to use HDMI for audio in that case. If the PS-3 has optical or coax digital audio out, the cheapest would be to run the HDMI direct to the Epson PJ, and a SPDIF for audio to the receiver. That would be more cost effective than getting another HDMI cable and a splitter. Of course, this assumes that the PS3 has a SPDIF and that it can send audio and video out from different outputs.



You are correct in that my receiver does not decode HD audio, however it can accept LPCM 5.1 over HDMI only so I am having the PS3 decode the HD audio for me and send it to the receiver via LPCM 5.1. So I must use the HDMI cable for my audio as this will not work via SPDIF.


I think the Monoprice splitter would be my best option, but I'll probably test the 1080i signal to see if I notice any difference first.


----------



## Meinbeast

First projector, newbie question regarding a mount.


My room is 12x16x9 and I am planning for a ~100" screen. The mount I am looking at is the PCMD all metal mount.

http://www.amazon.com/PCMD-All-Metal...4161826&sr=8-2 


I wish to have the bottom of my projected image 3 ft from the floor. Since the ceiling is 9ft high and the mount only drops it down 5", am I out of the vertical lens shift range to get my picture that low? Do I need to look to another mount that can offer an extender to drop the projector lower?


Thanks for any input!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19761235
> 
> 
> You are correct in that my receiver does not decode HD audio, however it can accept LPCM 5.1 over HDMI only so I am having the PS3 decode the HD audio for me and send it to the receiver via LPCM 5.1. So I must use the HDMI cable for my audio as this will not work via SPDIF.
> 
> 
> I think the Monoprice splitter would be my best option, but I'll probably test the 1080i signal to see if I notice any difference first.



Ah, fair enough. Does the receiver accept a 1080p video signal, even if it's just for audio processing?


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19761955
> 
> 
> Ah, fair enough. Does the receiver accept a 1080p video signal, even if it's just for audio processing?



All literature on the receiver says no, but there have been reports from some receiver owners of successfully getting 1080P to "pass through" if they set the source player to "source direct" or whatever the specific manufacturer of the BR player calls it. It seems to be a YMMV scenario though. I'll eventually just have to bite the bullet and play around with it and see what I can get to work.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Meinbeast* /forum/post/19761647
> 
> 
> First projector, newbie question regarding a mount.
> 
> 
> My room is 12x16x9 and I am planning for a ~100" screen. The mount I am looking at is the PCMD all metal mount.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/PCMD-All-Metal...4161826&sr=8-2
> 
> 
> I wish to have the bottom of my projected image 3 ft from the floor. Since the ceiling is 9ft high and the mount only drops it down 5", am I out of the vertical lens shift range to get my picture that low? Do I need to look to another mount that can offer an extender to drop the projector lower?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input!



You should have enough shift. However, note that this particular mount uses 1" square aluminum tubing for the shaft. This tubing is available from any Lowes or Home Depot and would allow you to drop it any distance.


I actually own one of these mounts. The mounting plate is good, as is the ceiling plate. Note that the "adjustments" are a couple of #6 bolts with wingnuts that will not really hold the projector tube at any angle except vertical. This is mostly OK, since the projector itself should be perfectly horizontal and the system will allow mounting on a sloped ceiling.


Lengthening the shaft will lower the frequency of the pendulum and may induce vibrations from a pendulum effect, given the sloppyness of the wingnuts. Don't know as I have a lower ceiling and have it mounted tight


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/19759928
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354



Wow, I honestly don't know how you can beat that one more reason I'm glad I chose the 8350!


----------



## soutthpaw

does anyone have recommendations of a universal remote that works all the functions of the 8350 and that will also work well with an Onkyo receiver and DirecTV DVR. along with my PS3 I am juggling 4 remotes. Due to Bluetooth, I am stuck for the PS3 controls but would like 1 remote for the other 3 devices


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19762666
> 
> 
> does anyone have recommendations of a universal remote that works all the functions of the 8350 and that will also work well with an Onkyo receiver and DirecTV DVR. along with my PS3 I am juggling 4 remotes. Due to Bluetooth, I am stuck for the PS3 controls but would like 1 remote for the other 3 devices




Which Onkyo??? the newer x008 models are great for that and even have macros build in.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/19762836
> 
> 
> Which Onkyo??? the newer x008 models are great for that and even have macros build in.



HT-R 680. I emailed customer support and they said there is no code for that projector so I'm gonna have to go with an aftermarket control


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19762666
> 
> 
> does anyone have recommendations of a universal remote that works all the functions of the 8350 and that will also work well with an Onkyo receiver and DirecTV DVR. along with my PS3 I am juggling 4 remotes. Due to Bluetooth, I am stuck for the PS3 controls but would like 1 remote for the other 3 devices



Believe that Logitech has a remote that is bluetooth able for the ps3 and can control your other units as well...

you can pick it up at your local bb

in the PS3 Dept area.....


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19763190
> 
> 
> Believe that Logitech has a remote that is bluetooth able for the ps3 and can control your other units as well...
> 
> you can pick it up at your local bb
> 
> in the PS3 Dept area.....



There are quite a few options available, here's a comparison I found from a Google search: http://reviews.cnet.com/4321-7847_7-...?tag=mncol;txt


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19763293
> 
> 
> There are quite a few options available, here's a comparison I found from a Google search: http://reviews.cnet.com/4321-7847_7-...?tag=mncol;txt



I have the nyko one and its a total waste of money.

Sits in the old remote bin...

and collects dust.


----------



## 96redformula




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *96redformula* /forum/post/19759316
> 
> 
> Damn I cursed myself posting last week about my bulb still going at 670 hrs. It is now officially dead and Epson has another on the way to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



New bulb is in and it is BEAUTIFUL, in fact I can tell now that the bulb was never working correctly from the beginning and short on brightness output out of the box. It seems like the original bulb was defective as the light bulb tip inside the lamp is facing 30 degrees of center







.


Great to have it fixed now, I do not even need to have it on dynamic.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19763566
> 
> 
> I have the nyko one and its a total waste of money.
> 
> Sits in the old remote bin...
> 
> and collects dust.



Looks like I might have to shell out the $$ for something like the Harmony 650 or 700 for now and when I can afford it, $50 PS3 adapter. seems like there is 51 total commands for the PS3 via the logitech adapter but only 31 via some of the cheaper PS3 remote options.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I might have to shell out the $$ for something like the Harmony 650 or 700 for now and when I can afford it, $50 PS3 adapter. seems like there is 51 total commands for the PS3 via the logitech adapter but only 31 via some of the cheaper PS3 remote options.



I have a logitech ps3 adapter, I use it with my 890. 890 is ir and rf, but the adapter is ir.It works quite well. Be aware if grabbing the adapter used that the first ones do not work with the slim ps3


----------



## kjr39

Quick question. I picked up my 8350 tonight and set it up to throw an image on wall.


In playing 360, it appears that there is noticeable motion blur when panning. Anyone else notice this? Would the fact that it is on a wall contribute to what I am seeing?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19765447
> 
> 
> Quick question. I picked up my 8350 tonight and set it up to throw an image on wall.
> 
> 
> In playing 360, it appears that there is noticeable motion blur when panning. Anyone else notice this? Would the fact that it is on a wall contribute to what I am seeing?



Wall does not have anything to do with motion blur.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19765447
> 
> 
> Quick question. I picked up my 8350 tonight and set it up to throw an image on wall.
> 
> 
> In playing 360, it appears that there is noticeable motion blur when panning. Anyone else notice this? Would the fact that it is on a wall contribute to what I am seeing?



as i wait for my PJ to show up and read more and more about this motion blur.....I'm scared


What Resolution are you running at? 720p, 1080i, 1080p? Maybe a scaler issue?


----------



## soutthpaw

If you read through this thread you will find that PS3 users (myself included) are not having any motion blur issues.. I am going to guess its either the 360 itself or has something to do with how its connected to the PJ.. are u going through an AV receiver? hdmi connected ? did you adjust the Motion Detection setting on the PJ?


Not owning a 360 I haven't paid attention as to if problems have been reported for yhat console


----------



## NickTF

I play PS3 Black Ops for hours on my 8350 and have noticed nothing but an improved image over the panny ax200 it replaced which actually had a "game mode".


----------



## kjr39

Thanks for the responses.


I am running all HDMI cabling (monoprice) from Xbox to Onkyo 3007 to Epson. Natural color using Arts settings tweaked (for now) to my liking. Resolution is 1080p confirmed through the projector menu with the Onkyo set to passthrough.


I'll check the motion detection setting but do not think that I changed it from whatever the default is.


FWIW, I didn't notice much blur with the bit of blu-ray (Inception) that I watched.


I'll play with it tonight and see what I find. Thanks!


----------



## Fishtank

I've ran about 450 gaming hours up on mine (PC/360/PS3/WII), I've never noticed any blurring... nothing but praise...well almost.


Although I can focus a clear picture, If I the middle and left side of the screen to it's absolute sharpest setting, the bottom right corner becomes slightly fuzzy. You would honestly never notice it if you didn't have a htpc or something setup, I can only tell when I can see the small clock on the pc. I have no keystone correction, it's mounted dead center, however I do have quite a bit of vertical lense shift so that may be part of the problem... I'm not sure but I'm also not worried about it, it's pretty minor.


I also have the problem where the screen drops what might be 1"/month, not a big deal.


Good projector.


----------



## newfmp3

guys I want a 110" screen. I've noticed that many people say the 8350 drops a lot of lumens depending on how much zoom is used. I've also read that the image is sharpest at mid zoom? There must be a sweet spot of zoom and throw distance. I do not mind moving my PJ. What is the most optimal distance for max brightness. How accurate is projector central calculator for this PJ? Any insight?


I'm thinking around 12'6 due to my seating, but wonder if I am completely off mark for max brightness/sharpness


----------



## akrasna

This may be a newbie question. I have bene convinced by this list to try for a ceiling mount closer to the screen .. I just wanted to know - are all my focus changes etc. do-able from the remote or will I need to stand on a chair and play manual focus and other things which may be tricky to get to the ceiling mount ..


Thanks

Allen


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *akrasna* 
This may be a newbie question. I have bene convinced by this list to try for a ceiling mount closer to the screen .. I just wanted to know - are all my focus changes etc. do-able from the remote or will I need to stand on a chair and play manual focus and other things which may be tricky to get to the ceiling mount ..


Thanks

Allen
They're manual, so you'll have to get up there. Fortunately, once set, you won't need to adjust frequently.


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
guys I want a 110" screen. I've noticed that many people say the 8350 drops a lot of lumens depending on how much zoom is used. I've also read that the image is sharpest at mid zoom? There must be a sweet spot of zoom and throw distance. I do not mind moving my PJ. What is the most optimal distance for max brightness. How accurate is projector central calculator for this PJ? Any insight?


I'm thinking around 12'6 due to my seating, but wonder if I am completely off mark for max brightness/sharpness
At that 12'6 i would do a 106-110 screen and for sweet spot being 106inches

Because of the Ansi Lumens being 2000 you can get away with a lower gain screen...

no need to go with a 1.3 or higher gain...


As you are aware there are alot of screen options out there per your budget ...


but ya i would say sweet spot would be 106....


----------



## Chopin_Guy

I am on the fence of whether to go with a projector set-up and wanted to post this question here for those with experience with the 8350...I have also gotten some very good input and help from fraisa above -- but wanted to also hear from some owners of this unit as well.


I am looking to possibly upgrade to a projector set-up in my living room which does not have the best light control -- we have blinds at all windows but there are some smaller windows above that can still let in light. Also I should note -- my current display is a Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD, so I have been spoiled with an excellent display.


As far as screen size, I am looking at 92" as I know this should be a good size to focus image quality and lumen output given the ambient light in the room if used during the day -- which is rarely. Also the screen I am looking at is the Stewart Luxus Deluxe 92" in whatever material would be best for ambient light -- which seems either the Firehawk G3 or GrayHawk RS G3 (which is a much lower gain screen however).


So any input on whether this seems like a viable possibility for use or if I should just stick with my Kuro...


Many Thanks...


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19768964
> 
> 
> guys I want a 110" screen. I've noticed that many people say the 8350 drops a lot of lumens depending on how much zoom is used. I've also read that the image is sharpest at mid zoom? There must be a sweet spot of zoom and throw distance. I do not mind moving my PJ. What is the most optimal distance for max brightness. How accurate is projector central calculator for this PJ? Any insight?
> 
> 
> I'm thinking around 12'6 due to my seating, but wonder if I am completely off mark for max brightness/sharpness



I'm projecting onto a 110 inch matte white screen from 12 feet 4 inches and it looks great. I'm even using eco mode and it's still very bright to my eyes. I haven't even had to raise the brightness or contrast from the default settings.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/19771346
> 
> 
> I'm projecting onto a 110 inch matte white screen from 12 feet 4 inches and it looks great. I'm even using eco mode and it's still very bright to my eyes. I haven't even had to raise the brightness or contrast from the default settings.



Major Benifit from the raised ansi lumens vs last yrs model...


----------



## develvjd-

I bought this to make my ceiling mount look a little more professional, but will the two extra connections give me any negative PQ impact? Should I just go with a pass through wall plate?


Edit, it's HDMI 1.3 is that a problem?










http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/19771888
> 
> 
> I bought this to make my ceiling mount look a little more professional, but will the two extra connections give me any negative PQ impact? Should I just go with a pass through wall plate?
> 
> 
> Edit, it's HDMI 1.3 is that a problem?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



I'm using that on one of the HDMI connections. No problems whatsoever.


----------



## develvjd-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19772077
> 
> 
> I'm using that on one of the HDMI connections. No problems whatsoever.



Great, and I suppose if it gives me any issues, I can always rip it out and replace with a pass-thru plate. Thanks-


----------



## Jamosb78

Just a little follow-up to my earlier post about the green "dust blob" on my 8350...

I've contacted Epson to see what they recommend.

The reply I got is:


"Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350.


You cannot fix this issue. Please call Epson technical support to report this--refer to the special 800 # provided in your documentation. Under the terms of the warranty we will exchange the projector."


Bummer.

Do I need to pay out-of-pocket to ship the projector back to Epson, or do they cover the costs?


Looks like I'll be giving them a call tomorrow.


----------



## EJ

Bummer? They're sending you a new projector.


----------



## akrasna

Regarding how often I will need to physically touch the PJ to make changes (when mounted)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19769506
> 
> 
> They're manual, so you'll have to get up there. Fortunately, once set, you won't need to adjust frequently.



Thanks.

i expect to be switching my source often

Composite TV (yes I know .. bad qual)

Compnonent Wii

HDMI Media player ..


I know the remote will switch the source - but is there any manual focus/tinkering needed when I switch between them?


Thanks

Allen


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19772622
> 
> 
> i expect to be switching my source often
> 
> Composite TV (yes I know .. bad qual)
> 
> Compnonent Wii
> 
> HDMI Media player ..
> 
> 
> I know the remote will switch the source - but is there any manual focus/tinkering needed when I switch between them?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allen



No.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/19771888
> 
> 
> I bought this to make my ceiling mount look a little more professional, but will the two extra connections give me any negative PQ impact? Should I just go with a pass through wall plate?
> 
> 
> Edit, it's HDMI 1.3 is that a problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



I would pop that out and have a straight connection.


that s what i like about my BenQ wall plate.

for the cables its a straight flush style

that allows for a 1 cable straight connection...


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19772877
> 
> 
> I would pop that out and have a straight connection.



A good idea, since mine is not going into a wall per se. I might do that and see if I can use the bit I "pop out" as a "port saver" elsewhere in the house.


----------



## masterren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/19771888
> 
> 
> I bought this to make my ceiling mount look a little more professional, but will the two extra connections give me any negative PQ impact? Should I just go with a pass through wall plate?
> 
> 
> Edit, it's HDMI 1.3 is that a problem?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



I'm using one of those on each end of my in-wall 35' HDMI 1.2 cable. No issues at all. Looks very clean too.


----------



## Vracer111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19767417
> 
> 
> Thanks for the responses.
> 
> 
> I am running all HDMI cabling (monoprice) from Xbox to Onkyo 3007 to Epson. Natural color using Arts settings tweaked (for now) to my liking. Resolution is 1080p confirmed through the projector menu with the Onkyo set to passthrough.
> 
> 
> I'll check the motion detection setting but do not think that I changed it from whatever the default is.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I didn't notice much blur with the bit of blu-ray (Inception) that I watched.
> 
> 
> I'll play with it tonight and see what I find. Thanks!



For gaming are you sure all your components are set for 60Hz and not 1080p/24Hz... that's the only thing I can think of (and most likely issue as well.) Took me a while to figure out how to get the Xbox360 to even recognize 1080p (First 1080P display, finally found out you have to disable auto display detection on the XBox360 to have 1080p as an option...how dumb!) No problem with any motion blur for Halo Reach on a 92" screen...


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19772462
> 
> 
> Bummer? They're sending you a new projector.



Sounds that way.

I'm going to call tomorrow.

Glad that they are so willing to do warranty exchange work, but I'm still a little disappointed that I have to do it at all.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19773887
> 
> 
> Sounds that way.
> 
> I'm going to call tomorrow.
> 
> Glad that they are so willing to do warranty exchange work, but I'm still a little disappointed that I have to do it at all.



Doesn't Epson pay for shipping during the warranty period?


----------



## kjr39




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vracer111* /forum/post/19773471
> 
> 
> For gaming are you sure all your components are set for 60Hz and not 1080p/24Hz... that's the only thing I can think of (and most likely issue as well.) Took me a while to figure out how to get the Xbox360 to even recognize 1080p (First 1080P display, finally found out you have to disable auto display detection on the XBox360 to have 1080p as an option...how dumb!) No problem with any motion blur for Halo Reach on a 92" screen...



I had 1080p as an option on the xbox as soon as I plugged in the projector. Per the projector, it is 60Hz.


Last night, I started out going through the entire setup to ensure that everything was setup optimally. Xbox is set to 1080p, receiver is set to through, and pj is setup as previously mentioned. Movement in games still looked off.


So, I popped in a Blu-Ray (Up) and watched the entire movie in addition to watching parts of The Dark Knight. The Blu-Ray player is setup at 1080p/24 (confirmed by projector.) While 2x2 pulldown helps, movement for me is still a problem. Fast pans or character movement don't look blurry as in the xbox, but it doesn't look right. The best way that I can explain it is that it looks similar to when the frames per second is low on a game. Meaning that the image looks like it makes small jumps in a pan than being smooth. An example is the credits at the end of the movie. They just do not scroll smoothly up the screen.


A couple of things I have tried is to step the image size down from 100" to smaller than 50", direct connecting devices to the PJ. I have one thing I need to do and that is swap the cable going to the PJ. Presently I have a 35ft HDMI Cable from Monoprice connected.


I'm kind of at a loss and am thinking of returning the projector. Presently, watching it gives me a terrible headache.


Would a DLP projector make for better motion?


Any other thoughts?


----------



## soutthpaw

A few pages back another member was having issues with flicker from the PJ and it turned out to be his HDMI cables... you might try a different brand of HDMI cable on yr xbox to PJ setup. it is my understanding that the DLP is better for reducing motion blur but then there is also the raimbow effect issue. Any chance you can take your xbox to a home theater store and try it out on some of their demo projectors... Maybe they will have an EPson 8350, 9350,8700 etc on display. try a call to Epson support and see if they have any ideas. Any friends have a PS3 that they can bring over for you to try with the PJ. do you still have the issue if you use a different DVD player? I have the Up DVD and no issues with motion blur, or issues with the credits (good example by the way) Ill double check that today.


----------



## MississippiMan

kjr39,


You obviously have some issues going on within the PJ itself. If anything remotely like the problems your encountering had cropped up with any degree of frequency on this Thread after 2700+ replies and 250K+ views ***, we'd be hearing a LOT more about them.


The differences in DLP vs LCD display tech will not translate into either being better than the other in relationship to Judder or similar issues. All those things are specific to the internal Hardware / Software either PJ is designed around.

***FWIW....by my calculations this thread is the fastest growing and most popular Thread in the history of "PJs under $3000K". That must be attributed to both it's value, and the fact so many more people are turning to FP these days and want something special for a decent price.


----------



## kjr39

The more I think about it, the more it may be the cable going to the projector. I should be able to move some components around that will allow me to use a shorter cable run.


If that doesn't work, I'm going to swap out the projector and see if that makes a difference. I agree with you MissMan that if it were an problem with the 8350 as a whole, there would be more mention of it.


FWIW, it could be me. My wife watched part of Up with me and said it looked great. Than again, this is the same wife that never notices that the components in the shelf magically change...


----------



## newfmp3

My PJ still hasn't shipped....arg. Things are hard to get it seems. That being said, I' ve ordered it from www.hd.ca . Excellent to deal with so far. I have a habbit of asking a LOT of questions via email when trying out a new company, and they never fail to respond. To me communication is everything.


----------



## Sevker

I've tried the search function, really I have.. I think it may be my inability to enter the right question. SO here goes people!


Will the 8350 work with your standard Anamorphic lense? Does the 8350 have the regular CIH scaler built in to acomidate most 2.35:1 CIH setups.


(My future theater will have a "144 2.35:1 DiY AT screen)


Thank you!


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19774594
> 
> 
> FWIW....by my calculations this thread is the fastest growing and most popular Thread in the history of "PJs under $3000K". That must be attributed to both it's value, and the fact so many more people are turning to FP these days and want something special for a decent price.



Everyone loves bigger and better. And when someone starts looking to upgrade the size of the tv (as I was) you can't beat the value/size of a pj anymore. I think you are right, more and more people are going to be looking at pjs as an option.


I would never have considered one until I accidently read how outstanding the picture quality has gotten. I had to see for myself so I went to my nearest BB and picked one up. Since that day I have sold a friend and uncle on one. Which wasn't very hard once they saw what it can do!


----------



## LonnieU

Well I guess this is as good a place for my first post...


After a long friendship with an Infocus LP755 (that's old folks!) that died last month, I started the search for a replacement.


After much research, mostly here on AVS, my local BB took my money freely and I am now a "happy" 8350 owner! The "candid" opinions in the forums helped make the decision for it to be the best unit for my room and budget.


And with that purchase and my normal luck, do expect a price drop any day now


----------



## RyanBosma

Speaking of your local BB. They just sent me an E-mail that I can get any item at 10% off including projectors. It is snowing like mad outside but I'm on my way to finally pull the plug on an 8350 to replace a Z4. Hope you guys are right about how good this thing is.


Ryan


----------



## Jamosb78




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19774361
> 
> 
> Doesn't Epson pay for shipping during the warranty period?



Yes they do!

I just called to set up the exchange.

They Fedex overnight me a replacement projector, and I box up the old one and send it back to them within 7 business days.


Pretty easy process.

The person who helped me was nice enough, although not exactly knowledgeable about projectors.


Hopefully the replacement one will be a winner!


----------



## des16

I have been thinking for a while about upgrading to a 1080p projector from my 720p Panny for viewing blue-ray DVDs. Before doing so, I wanted to get some input as to whether I will really notice a substantial difference. I have a 96-inch Severston screen and OPPO BDP-83.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RyanBosma* /forum/post/19777394
> 
> 
> Speaking of your local BB. They just sent me an E-mail that I can get any item at 10% off including projectors. It is snowing like mad outside but I'm on my way to finally pull the plug on an 8350 to replace a Z4. Hope you guys are right about how good this thing is.
> 
> 
> Ryan



I predict that you will be astonished at the difference.


I went from a Z4 to an Epson 6100 two years ago. The difference will be immediately noticeable. You will turn the 8350 on and your jaw will hit the floor once you see how bright the thing is. The jump from 720p to 1080p will be totally apparent (especially on HD sources), and the black levels will be MUCH better than the Z4, and that's even with the iris off. Plus, calibration is MUCH easier with the Epson's full CMS.


My 6100 is clearly superior to the Z4. Your 8350 will be even better, I would imagine.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *des16* /forum/post/19777822
> 
> 
> I have been thinking for a while about upgrading to a 1080p projector from my 720p Panny for viewing blue-ray DVDs. Before doing so, I wanted to get some input as to whether I will really notice a substantial difference. I have a 96-inch Severston screen.



Yes, you will. See my post directly above.


----------



## des16

I forgot to mention that I have a OPPO BDP-83.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *des16* /forum/post/19777949
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention that I have a OPPO BDP-83.



Then definitely get the 8350.


----------



## LonnieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RyanBosma* /forum/post/19777394
> 
> 
> Speaking of your local BB. They just sent me an E-mail that I can get any item at 10% off including projectors. It is snowing like mad outside but I'm on my way to finally pull the plug on an 8350 to replace a Z4. Hope you guys are right about how good this thing is.
> 
> 
> Ryan



Well I failed to mention that the 10% certificate, by monthly snail mail, is what "pushed" me over the edge....


Although, the BB CS person had a time getting it to take at first, but the manager got it through finally. Did ask them about price matching to some other sites as others have mentioned, but he said he could not do both. The 10% off came to about the same or more discount IIRC.


I was between the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi 4000. I had the opportunity of being able to play with both models beforehand, although not side by side. But I'm in that low % of the population that sees the color rainbows of that speed DLP. My room mounting was also going to be a challange for the Mits because of ceiling height. The lens shift of the 8350 made it a no brainer.


And to make Missisippiman grin, I hung it with a Chief RPA mount! Mainly because I have plenty of them at my place of work and a favor from where I buy them to give me a "free" SLB plate for the projector


----------



## wpgcabby

Lots of good info in this thread. Makes me wonder if I wasted $800 going with the 8700ub instead!


----------



## kjr39




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LonnieU* /forum/post/19778038
> 
> 
> Well I failed to mention that the 10% certificate, by monthly snail mail, is what "pushed" me over the edge....
> 
> 
> Although, the BB CS person had a time getting it to take at first, but the manager got it through finally. Did ask them about price matching to some other sites as others have mentioned, but he said he could not do both. The 10% off came to about the same or more discount IIRC.
> 
> 
> I was between the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi 4000. I had the opportunity of being able to play with both models beforehand, although not side by side. But I'm in that low % of the population that sees the color rainbows of that speed DLP. My room mounting was also going to be a challange for the Mits because of ceiling height. The lens shift of the 8350 made it a no brainer.
> 
> 
> And to make Missisippiman grin, I hung it with a Chief RPA mount! Mainly because I have plenty of them at my place of work and a favor from where I buy them to give me a "free" SLB plate for the projector



Are you in Charlotte by chance? Just recently, I was able to get the HHGregg in town to go down hear the price they offered in November.


----------



## JayMan007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19778266
> 
> 
> Are you in Charlotte by chance? Just recently, I was able to get the HHGregg in town to go down hear the price they offered in November.



Was that recently?


They are supposedly have an employee discount on everything, but when I went in there the other day, it was the MSRP price.

I was in there in Nov, and took a picture of the price.-I wonder if they would price match their own price?


----------



## N1GHTRA1N

So my house is about a month away from being finished. My larger room in the basement (25'x14.5') will be used for my HT, it has a window in the side and back but I'll use blackout curtains. However, some ambient light will be present so I've all but settled on the 8350, it is about as high as I can go price wise.


I will have a sofa on the wall under the side window with closest seat about 6-7 feet from wall with screen on it. The main seating sofa will be across the room about 16 feet from screen wall.


On the screen wall I will have an audio tower with my components with the left hand corner I will have a BIC PL-200 sub-woofer in the right hand corner and my two Energy C-500 towers with inside of them both. I plan on using a 20" high storage bench in the middle of the room with my Energy C-C100 center sitting on it (about 7" high). In the rear of the room I will have Energy C-200 speakers mounted to the wall just outside the edge of that window. I also will have Energy CR-10 surrounds mounted just to the side of the main sofa for complete 7.1. I will also be adding another PL-200 subwoofer to the back of the room in the left corner if needed. I'm using a Yamaha RX-V3900 btw.


I will be mounting my projector just above/behind the sofa about 18' from screen wall so the throw distance is 17-18' from wall. I am painting the walls a grey color (called sweatshirt grey) with the screen wall being painted black. I will be using a flat white or very light grey for the ceiling.


My only real question is screen size and mount height. How low should I mount the projector? The closer to the ceiling the better but dropping a few inches is fine. Also what size screen? I'm thinking 106" but maybe 120" if it can fit. I'm in Canada and only have about $500 to spend on a screen. I'm considering pull down but think I would prefer fixed frame instead.


If my center channel is approximately 27" off the floor level (to the top of speaker) and my ceiling is roughly 96" high what size screen would work? I don't know how much space should be above the screen for proper viewing and I don't know if 120" will fit right since they seem to be about 59" high that would leave only 8" above screen, maybe less if the ceiling is slightly less that 96", it might be 94", 92", maybe even 98" I don't know yet.


This will be my first projector setup, currently I use a Samsung PN58A550 58" plasma that I will be using in another room. Any help, comments or advice would be great.


I need to mention I'm in Canada, I don't have many options locally to buy screens. Suggestions would be great but they must be reasonable shipping costs because $500 is my budget for a screen I don't want to get 20-25% of that on shipping if I can help it.


Thanks.


----------



## wpgcabby

Checkout Elunevision screens, you can get them in Canada. Google is your friend.


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19778716
> 
> 
> Checkout Eastporters, they are Canadian. I recently got a 100" reference screen and received it in less then two days to Winnipeg! Don't be afraid to barter, I saved $500 over MSRP



So what you emailed them and asked for a better price?


----------



## RyanBosma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LonnieU* /forum/post/19778038
> 
> 
> Well I failed to mention that the 10% certificate, by monthly snail mail, is what "pushed" me over the edge....
> 
> 
> Although, the BB CS person had a time getting it to take at first, but the manager got it through finally. Did ask them about price matching to some other sites as others have mentioned, but he said he could not do both. The 10% off came to about the same or more discount IIRC.
> 
> 
> I was between the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi 4000. I had the opportunity of being able to play with both models beforehand, although not side by side. But I'm in that low % of the population that sees the color rainbows of that speed DLP. My room mounting was also going to be a challange for the Mits because of ceiling height. The lens shift of the 8350 made it a no brainer.
> 
> 
> And to make Missisippiman grin, I hung it with a Chief RPA mount! Mainly because I have plenty of them at my place of work and a favor from where I buy them to give me a "free" SLB plate for the projector



I had the exact same experience and had to involve the manager. Unfortunately my ceiling mount won't fit it (which I figured but thought I would try before I bought a new one). Anyway, it looks great so far just sitting on a low shelf. Now comes the fun part of tweaking and viewing, viewing and tweaking.


----------



## fraisa

The 8350 can handle hdtv with no judder


----------



## wpgcabby

I edited my post, you will have to edit yours.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19778556
> 
> 
> So my house is about a month away from being finished. My larger room in the basement (25'x14.5') will be used for my HT, it has a window in the side and back but I'll use blackout curtains. However, some ambient light will be present so I've all but settled on the 8350, it is about as high as I can go price wise.
> 
> 
> I will have a sofa on the wall under the side window with closest seat about 6-7 feet from wall with screen on it. The main seating sofa will be across the room about 16 feet from screen wall.
> 
> 
> On the screen wall I will have an audio tower with my components with the left hand corner I will have a BIC PL-200 sub-woofer in the right hand corner and my two Energy C-500 towers with inside of them both. I plan on using a 20" high storage bench in the middle of the room with my Energy C-C100 center sitting on it (about 7" high). In the rear of the room I will have Energy C-200 speakers mounted to the wall just outside the edge of that window. I also will have Energy CR-10 surrounds mounted just to the side of the main sofa for complete 7.1. I will also be adding another PL-200 subwoofer to the back of the room in the left corner if needed. I'm using a Yamaha RX-V3900 btw.
> 
> 
> I will be mounting my projector just above/behind the sofa about 18' from screen wall so the throw distance is 17-18' from wall. I am painting the walls a grey color (called sweatshirt grey) with the screen wall being painted black. I will be using a flat white or very light grey for the ceiling.
> 
> 
> My only real question is screen size and mount height. How low should I mount the projector? The closer to the ceiling the better but dropping a few inches is fine. Also what size screen? I'm thinking 106" but maybe 120" if it can fit. I'm in Canada and only have about $500 to spend on a screen. I'm considering pull down but think I would prefer fixed frame instead.
> 
> 
> If my center channel is approximately 27" off the floor level (to the top of speaker) and my ceiling is roughly 96" high what size screen would work? I don't know how much space should be above the screen for proper viewing and I don't know if 120" will fit right since they seem to be about 59" high that would leave only 8" above screen, maybe less if the ceiling is slightly less that 96", it might be 94", 92", maybe even 98" I don't know yet.
> 
> 
> This will be my first projector setup, currently I use a Samsung PN58A550 58" plasma that I will be using in another room. Any help, comments or advice would be great.
> 
> 
> I need to mention I'm in Canada, I don't have many options locally to buy screens. Suggestions would be great but they must be reasonable shipping costs because $500 is my budget for a screen I don't want to get 20-25% of that on shipping if I can help it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


 www.javeq.com also has some budget screens. I think the best bang for the buck is to make your own, though.


----------



## LonnieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19778266
> 
> 
> Are you in Charlotte by chance? Just recently, I was able to get the HHGregg in town to go down hear the price they offered in November.



North of you in W-S.


I'm very surprised you got that price considering the apparent lockdown of that deal as posted last month by many. Some manager didn't read their monthly district memos.


Good deal in asking about and getting it!


----------



## athelaw915

So I finally got my epson 8350 tonight and was very excited. After unpacking and setting everything up, I turned on the projector. First thing on the screen was "auto iris failed". I read from this forum that this projector does that so I turned it off and waited for a little. Then turned it back on and it seem to be working again. So I hook up the ps3 with the projector. Now on the bottom left hand corner, it say hdmi not compatible. No picture watsoever. i am using a 30ft 1.4 hdmi cable i bought from ebay. So I moved my ps3 closer to the projector and used my old hdmi cable which is 1.3 I think and everything works fine. Now here is the funny part. While using the old 1.3 cable, I started to watch some blu ray movies and thought maybe I will switch it back to the 1.4 and it actually works! so weird! Great Pictures by the way. WHen I finally stop the movie and went back to the ps3 screen, the screen just went blank and again, bottom left hand corner say hdmi not compatible again. The 1.3 cable works just fine but 1.4 have no picture in ps3 screen but works fine while playing blu ray movies. Can someone please explain this to me? I am buying a 1.3 cable from ebay again and hopefully that will work. Now I just need to wait couple more days...


----------



## dswdallas

Forget Ebay and buy from Monoprice or Blue Jeans cable. I've gotten cable from both that is first class, high quality, that work and oh by the way they help make this forum possible.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Is this company a paid advertiser on avs forums..
> 
> If they are not then this needs to be deleted
> 
> edit



to be honest I am not sure, so I got rid of it


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19780791
> 
> 
> So I finally got my epson 8350 tonight and was very excited. After unpacking and setting everything up, I turned on the projector. First thing on the screen was "auto iris failed". I read from this forum that this projector does that so I turned it off and waited for a little. Then turned it back on and it seem to be working again. So I hook up the ps3 with the projector. Now on the bottom left hand corner, it say hdmi not compatible. No picture watsoever. i am using a 30ft 1.4 hdmi cable i bought from ebay. So I moved my ps3 closer to the projector and used my old hdmi cable which is 1.3 I think and everything works fine. Now here is the funny part. While using the old 1.3 cable, I started to watch some blu ray movies and thought maybe I will switch it back to the 1.4 and it actually works! so weird! Great Pictures by the way. WHen I finally stop the movie and went back to the ps3 screen, the screen just went blank and again, bottom left hand corner say hdmi not compatible again. The 1.3 cable works just fine but 1.4 have no picture in ps3 screen but works fine while playing blu ray movies. Can someone please explain this to me? I am buying a 1.3 cable from ebay again and hopefully that will work. Now I just need to wait couple more days...



I have two 50' HDMI cables from Monoprice and they work flawlessly with this projector!


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *des16* /forum/post/19777822
> 
> 
> I have been thinking for a while about upgrading to a 1080p projector from my 720p Panny for viewing blue-ray DVDs. Before doing so, I wanted to get some input as to whether I will really notice a substantial difference. I have a 96-inch Severston screen and OPPO BDP-83.



I upgraded to the 8350 from the pany ax200 720p projector and there's definitely a noticeable difference during normal viewing of cable hd/sd in color and contrast however the real difference is in 1080p blu ray viewing. 1080p vs. 720p on a 106" 16:9 High Power screen was very very noticeable for me and a much desired improvement. IN short, yes it's a very worthy upgrade especially for the warranty offered on Epson 1080p projectors including the bulb.


----------



## dvrmstrng

Just wanted to pop back in here. After doing a 120" screen with sintra and some rs maxx mudd and hours of discussion with MM, I now have over 100 hours on my 8350 and love every minute of it. Movies look astonishing and people are amazed every time it is fired up.


I by no means have a "theater room" its more like a lower family room, the walls are off white, the ceiling is white, the carpet is grey, sun comes in from everywhere during the day and even on the brightest of days with the 8350 on living room or dynamic mode I can sit and watch sports, even with the lights on.


Still very pleased with my purchase and the screen is top notch.


----------



## SmoothGS

How is everyone finding the black levels with this PJ? I've got just under 100hrs on it, throwing a 125" picture, ~14' away to an Elite 1.1g white 16:9 screen.


I'm using Art's settings and have found the black level detail not that great. Dark movies seem to lose detail, I can't see the detail or outline of a black car with a black background. Or I can't see a person's black hair detail if its a dark scene etc. What settings should I change?


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *athelaw915* /forum/post/19780791
> 
> 
> So I finally got my epson 8350 tonight and was very excited. After unpacking and setting everything up, I turned on the projector. First thing on the screen was "auto iris failed". I read from this forum that this projector does that so I turned it off and waited for a little. Then turned it back on and it seem to be working again. So I hook up the ps3 with the projector. Now on the bottom left hand corner, it say hdmi not compatible. No picture watsoever. i am using a 30ft 1.4 hdmi cable i bought from ebay. So I moved my ps3 closer to the projector and used my old hdmi cable which is 1.3 I think and everything works fine. Now here is the funny part. While using the old 1.3 cable, I started to watch some blu ray movies and thought maybe I will switch it back to the 1.4 and it actually works! so weird! Great Pictures by the way. WHen I finally stop the movie and went back to the ps3 screen, the screen just went blank and again, bottom left hand corner say hdmi not compatible again. The 1.3 cable works just fine but 1.4 have no picture in ps3 screen but works fine while playing blu ray movies. Can someone please explain this to me? I am buying a 1.3 cable from ebay again and hopefully that will work. Now I just need to wait couple more days...



I am using a 50' cable from Monoprice, with no issues,


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19782261
> 
> 
> How is everyone finding the black levels with this PJ? I've got just under 100hrs on it, throwing a 125" picture, ~14' away to an Elite 1.1g white 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> I'm using Art's settings and have found the black level detail not that great. Dark movies seem to lose detail, I can't see the detail or outline of a black car with a black background. Or I can't see a person's black hair detail if its a dark scene etc. What settings should I change?



I would do a calibration using a calibration DVD or BD, your blacks are crushing.


----------



## JayMan007

Quote:

Originally Posted by *kjr39* 
It was Saturday. I printed the screen shot that someone posted online of the 20% off price and asked them to match it. They went $100 over that price and then I used the $75 from signing up for hhgold. Around $1050+tax.
I was just in there, and they said no way they would match their price from Oct/Nov.

Their price was $88 more than BestBuy... when I said that, they said they would match BB...


the screen shot you PM'd me gave a 403 error...


----------



## fraisa

You guys cant be posting pricing in your comments...

Read the rules....


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19784708
> 
> 
> You guys cant be posting pricing in your comments...
> 
> Read the rules....




Wrong:

$45.99

$235.95

$1100.99

$1175.95

$999.99


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19784759
> 
> 
> Wrong:
> 
> $45.99
> 
> $235.95
> 
> $1100.99
> 
> $1175.95
> 
> $999.99



.


----------



## mekkerl

I'm waiting for a price drop before I pull the trigger on the 8350...


So until then...is there a Blue Ray player that is 'recommended' for the 8350? Or are they all going to provide the same PQ to the projector?


----------



## wcmlutz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for a price drop before I pull the trigger on the 8350...
> 
> 
> So until then...is there a Blue Ray player that is 'recommended' for the 8350? Or are they all going to provide the same PQ to the projector?



PQ wise they should all be similar for Blu-ray. Reliability between brands will vary as will additional features.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wcmlutz* /forum/post/19784943
> 
> 
> PQ wise they should all be similar for Blu-ray. Reliability between brands will vary as will additional features.




Thanks -- that's what I figured...now on to my BR research!


----------



## greenhorne




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19667217
> 
> 
> Okay did some testing on a 8350 unit tonight on a Da Lite Pull Down 92 inch screen..
> 
> 
> If you use this unit on that type of screen you are not getting the best out of this unit
> 
> and you are sacrificing the units Performance
> 
> 
> Will post some pics tomorrow of my testing...
> 
> ANd no i did not take any screen shots of the 8350 on a high end screen....
> 
> And have no intentions on it either...
> 
> 
> If you are on a budget and a high end screen is not an option at this time
> 
> Mississipi Mans Paint solution is a much better alternative than a Da Lite Pull Down Screen or a Accu Fixed Screen ....
> 
> 
> Will post the screen shots later.....



First posting as a member, as you can tell from my name , yup a Greenhorne,


Just purchased a 8350 (looking forward as it should show up tomorrow) replacing my epson home 10 from about 2001. My screen is a 92inch Luma (lower quality) which i have no idea what the gain is ?


how much can i get away with spending for a decent screen to match my new 8350 ( i am on a budget, her name is my wife).


thank you for any info


----------



## dvrmstrng

Quote:

Originally Posted by *greenhorne* 
First posting as a member, as you can tell from my name , yup a Greenhorne,


Just purchased a 8350 (looking forward as it should show up tomorrow) replacing my epson home 10 from about 2001. My screen is a 92inch Luma (lower quality) which i have no idea what the gain is ?


how much can i get away with spending for a decent screen to match my new 8350 ( i am on a budget, her name is my wife).


thank you for any info
Cost me $350 start to finish almost exactly. My sceen is 120" so i had to jump up to a 5'x10' sheet of sintra which drove the cost up compared to sticking to the 4'x8' variety.


I also did not have a paint sprayer, nor any type of paint accessories so I would say that unless you plan on going over 120" diagonal your looking at $350 max which MM says with the correct spraying and compare to a screen that would cost many many times that.


----------



## EJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by *greenhorne* 
First posting as a member, as you can tell from my name , yup a Greenhorne,


Just purchased a 8350 (looking forward as it should show up tomorrow) replacing my epson home 10 from about 2001. My screen is a 92inch Luma (lower quality) which i have no idea what the gain is ?


how much can i get away with spending for a decent screen to match my new 8350 ( i am on a budget, her name is my wife).


thank you for any info
I love my Carada screen! It's a dynamite screen, and company. I have a 1.0 gain 88" classic cinema white. If it were available at the time, I probably would have gone with the Criterion screen for the frame. If I had the $, I would love their masking system.


----------



## soutthpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mekkerl* 
I'm waiting for a price drop before I pull the trigger on the 8350...


So until then...is there a Blue Ray player that is 'recommended' for the 8350? Or are they all going to provide the same PQ to the projector?
If you do a search on the web, you will find that the PS3 is still one of the premiere Blu-ray players of choice. for options, speed, upgradeability and image quality. The place it is not tops is in convenience and idiotproofness..

I have seen a few popular review sites that use it for their benchmark comparison player


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19786635
> 
> 
> If you do a search on the web, you will find that the PS3 is still one of the premiere Blu-ray players of choice. for options, speed, upgradeability and image quality. The place it is not tops is in convenience and idiotproofness..
> 
> I have seen a few popular review sites that use it for their benchmark comparison player



I would agree with you for the ps3 but my vote goes for the slim version.

The PS3 that i have with the hard drive and backwards compatibility

Does not bitstream DTS-HD or Dobly True HD.

but sends it as a PCM...


I would have upgraded to the slim to get that feature

but i would loose the backwards compatibility...


----------



## LooseScrews

Posting up some quick comparison shots for those considering this projector.


Shot with Canon 50D DSLR with Tamron lens, mounted on tripod, manual exposure and ISO 1600 (shot was taken with video playing). Main light in room was on and is fluorescent which throws off the room color. Canon was set to "daylight" for white balance.


Screen is simply "silverscreen" paint from Home Depot painted on typical wall.


Video is Pirates: Black Pearl on standard DVD, played through XBox 360 via HDMI to Onkyo HT-R680 receiver.


Epson PowerLite S1+ with quite a few hours on it (8 years old).



















Same video clip, but with Epson 8350 and standard settings.











Now for the money shot. Video is paused, ambient lights off, and zoomed in to show the detail.


(ISO dropped to 800 and shutter speed 1/25)


----------



## EscapeVelocity

Can someone confirm that the 8350 uses Silicon Optix Reon VX video processing?


Thanks


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EscapeVelocity* /forum/post/19787655
> 
> 
> Can someone confirm that the 8350 uses Silicon Optix Reon VX video processing?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't think it uses one of the Reon chips.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LooseScrews* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Posting up some quick comparison shots for those considering this projector.
> 
> 
> Shot with Canon 50D DSLR with Tamron lens, mounted on tripod, manual exposure and ISO 1600 (shot was taken with video playing). Main light in room was on and is fluorescent which throws off the room color. Canon was set to "daylight" for white balance.
> 
> 
> Screen is simply "silverscreen" paint from Home Depot painted on typical wall.
> 
> 
> Video is Pirates: Black Pearl on standard DVD, played through XBox 360 via HDMI to Onkyo HT-R680 receiver.
> 
> 
> Epson PowerLite S1+ with quite a few hours on it (8 years old).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same video clip, but with Epson 8350 and standard settings.
> 
> 
> Now for the money shot. Video is paused, ambient lights off, and zoomed in to show the detail.
> 
> 
> (ISO dropped to 800 and shutter speed 1/25)



Maybe it is just me, but I do not find these shots impressive at all. I am sure its just the camera, but your new image looks no brighter then the old. And your pj is not level....seeing keystone issue


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19789355
> 
> 
> Maybe it is just me, but I do not find these shots impressive at all. I am sure its just the camera, but your new image looks no brighter then the old. And your pj is not level....seeing keystone issue



Agreed...if we all didn't know better about screenshots this would scare most away form this projector. I'm sure his real image he is seeing looks loads better than this screenshot.


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LooseScrews* /forum/post/19787369
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the money shot. Video is paused, ambient lights off, and zoomed in to show the detail.
> 
> 
> (ISO dropped to 800 and shutter speed 1/25)



Does not look very sharp to me. Is it because it is zoomed?


----------



## LooseScrews

Should have stated the projector was simple "hung" in position of the old one and wasn't yet adjusted, included keystone, etc. I'll get another pic but of the movie Wall-E now that everything has been setup.


As far as zooming, it is middle range. The image itself is roughly ~8' diagonal and I did zoom in a bit with my camera lens.


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19789818
> 
> 
> Does not look very sharp to me. Is it because it is zoomed?



He also said it was DVD, an HD source would look a lot better.


----------



## EscapeVelocity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19787758
> 
> 
> I don't think it uses one of the Reon chips.



That's disappointing. It did seem too good to be true. I guess that is what the 8700 is for.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19787045
> 
> 
> I would agree with you for the ps3 but my vote goes for the slim version.
> 
> The PS3 that i have with the hard drive and backwards compatibility
> 
> Does not bitstream DTS-HD or Dobly True HD.
> 
> but sends it as a PCM...
> 
> 
> I would have upgraded to the slim to get that feature
> 
> but i would loose the backwards compatibility...





I have one of each, ( 60/500GB release version and a 160 Slim) I never even checked that, I thought it was all the same as those are part of firmware updates.... the Phat one is on the Theater system

Oh I got the slim used on CL locally for $160 then traded in some games that were included with the deal and got $50 cash for those so not a bad way to buy a PS3 for around a Benjamin

that being said what is the difference??


----------



## hanly2

Also I have the slim but I am pretty sure that my audio out is set to pcm should I change it to something else? While we are at it what should the video out and upconvert be set to I have it all on auto right now? Any other settings? Thanks


----------



## soutthpaw

Ok, I'm gonna jump into this screen shop, I took about 30 diff photos trying setting on the camera that showed what I am seeing. . this was the closest. its in Cinema calibrated mode scene 23 from the WOW disk, Nature's Journey.

ambient light behind projector is on full, lights in front of projector are off

Here is the camera info:


Filename: WOW23 Natures journey.JPG

File size: 923 KB (945 341 bytes)

Dimensions: 1920 x 1080

Bit depth: 24


Flash No

Exposure time 1/13 s

Aperture 3.3

Max. aperture 3.29

Focal length 4.10 mm

Focal length (EQ35mm) 32 mm

ISO 400

Digital zoom ratio 0.00

Exposure bias 0

Metering mode Pattern

Exposure mode Auto exposure

White balance Automatic

Exposure program Normal program

Orientation Normal

Sharpness Normal

Contrast Normal

Saturation Normal

Gain control High gain up

Scene capture type Standard

Light source Unknown

Camera Make Panasonic

Model DMC-ZS3

Software Ver.1.2

Compression JFIF Compression

Color representation YCbCR

DPI 180.00











I am open to suggestions on improving the pic taking


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19791224
> 
> 
> Ok, I'm gonna jump into this screen shop, I took about 30 diff photos trying setting on the camera that showed what I am seeing. . this was the closest. its in Cinema calibrated mode scene 23 from the WOW disk, Nature's Journey.
> 
> ambient light behind projector is on full, lights in front of projector are off
> 
> Here is the camera info:
> 
> 
> Filename: WOW23 Natures journey.JPG
> 
> File size: 923 KB (945 341 bytes)
> 
> Dimensions: 1920 x 1080
> 
> Bit depth: 24
> 
> 
> Flash No
> 
> Exposure time 1/13 s
> 
> Aperture 3.3
> 
> Max. aperture 3.29
> 
> Focal length 4.10 mm
> 
> Focal length (EQ35mm) 32 mm
> 
> ISO 400
> 
> Digital zoom ratio 0.00
> 
> Exposure bias 0
> 
> Metering mode Pattern
> 
> Exposure mode Auto exposure
> 
> White balance Automatic
> 
> Exposure program Normal program
> 
> Orientation Normal
> 
> Sharpness Normal
> 
> Contrast Normal
> 
> Saturation Normal
> 
> Gain control High gain up
> 
> Scene capture type Standard
> 
> Light source Unknown
> 
> Camera Make Panasonic
> 
> Model DMC-ZS3
> 
> Software Ver.1.2
> 
> Compression JFIF Compression
> 
> Color representation YCbCR
> 
> DPI 180.00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am open to suggestions on improving the pic taking



Take your Exposure mode out of Auto,

Try your iso at 50-100

and repost

curious if it makes a drastic difference

I know in my pics ISO 50 takes out most of my pic noise(Noise on pic not screen pic)


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19790984
> 
> 
> Also I have the slim but I am pretty sure that my audio out is set to pcm should I change it to something else? While we are at it what should the video out and upconvert be set to I have it all on auto right now? Any other settings? Thanks



Yes change that to bitstream if your Audio rec can do DTS HD or DOlby True HD


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19790835
> 
> 
> I have one of each, ( 60/500GB release version and a 160 Slim) I never even checked that, I thought it was all the same as those are part of firmware updates.... the Phat one is on the Theater system
> 
> Oh I got the slim used on CL locally for $160 then traded in some games that were included with the deal and got $50 cash for those so not a bad way to buy a PS3 for around a Benjamin
> 
> that being said what is the difference??



Difference is what i mentioned above.

Slim not backwards compatible wont play ps2 games

Fat version wont bitstream dtshd..

Firmware update cant make a unit able to bitstream dtshd..

thats a hardware issue.

Not firmware


----------



## NickTF

I would not judge nearly anything off of screen shots and I'm not sure why anyone would worry about them. Just my two cents. If you're really worried go and try to find a demo if possible otherwise you're stuck listening to reviews posted by projectorcentral and projectoreviews. The 8350 is way way way sharper than those latest pictures indicate. I myself have never had any good luck posting pictures of screen shots and don't really care to be able to.


----------



## hanly2

I have a yamaha v-367 receiver. What does that tell you?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19792285
> 
> 
> I have a yamaha v-367 receiver. What does that tell you?



It tells me you have a Yamaha v-367...


Just kidding...










Keep the PS3 as PCM.. your AVR doesn't decode lossless audio.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19792285
> 
> 
> I have a yamaha v-367 receiver. What does that tell you?



You should look at upgrading your Yamaha to lower series Advantage rec.

not that expensive and will Bitstream DTS HD and Dolby true hd..

those advantage series units work really good with the 8350


----------



## soutthpaw

Is there an advantage to running the audio to the receiver via Digital optical over using the HDMI cable?


I was holding camera by hand as don't have a tripod so thats why it looks a bit fuzzy but the color was pretty close.

Ill mess with it some more and see if I get any better. as for screen images I am just doing mine out of interest to see if I can get what i see to look close via a picture...

I check the setting options on both my PS3's later tonite

EDIT: sure enough, never even knew that there was a difference in the PS3's I might just have to swap the hard drive and put the slim on the home theater


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19792361
> 
> 
> You should look at upgrading your Yamaha to lower series Advantage rec.
> 
> not that expensive and will Bitstream DTS HD and Dolby true hd..
> 
> those advantage series units work really good with the 8350



How do you define one receiver as working better than another with a projector?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/19792397
> 
> 
> How do you define one receiver as working better than another with a projector?



by the video processing of the unit


----------



## bensashi

Hey guys, I've noticed some other weirdness with my projector that I've captured on video again - was hoping maybe someone might have a clue as to what's going on. When I first got the 8350 a week or two ago I had some issues with sending 1080p over HDMI which turned out to be a combination of crappy HDMI switch and a bad cable. Since getting a new receiver with HDMI inputs and removing the bad cable, all is well on that end.


Unfortunately, I noticed some more issues yesterday when I finally hooked up my Wii. On certain screens the corners of the screen are distorted and flickery (see embedded video). So far I've really only noticed this when attempting to go into the Wii Shop Channel...once the Channel actually loads it doesn't seem to happen, and I was not able to recreate this at the Home screen or in System settings or anywhere else so far (I haven't tried playing games).


I had it hooked up via the official Nintendo component cables to the receiver and then I was running a 25-ft component cable (which I've never had issues with before) to the projector. When I switch the signal from the receiver to be upscaled over HDMI rather than sent over component, the issue disappears. Thinking the problem might be the long component cable, I tried hooking the Wii up directly to the projector but the exact same problem occurred. Ultimately I think this is something I can live with since I can just play over HDMI, but I'm still worried about why this is happening. Has anyone else on here had similar problems?


----------



## Quick Hands

Guys do you think in a light controlled basement with dark walls and carpet with the required throw distance and a 1.3 gain matte white screen the 8350 could power a 130 inch screen for the long term ie. bulb life with out using dynamic?


----------



## hanly2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19792361
> 
> 
> You should look at upgrading your Yamaha to lower series Advantage rec.
> 
> not that expensive and will Bitstream DTS HD and Dolby true hd..
> 
> those advantage series units work really good with the 8350



I guess I will just have to live with the one I have for now I just bought it 2 months ago so not going to replace it. But honestly it sounds great as is and is def coming out in 5.1 sound so can't complain about that.


Can anyone tell me what page arts settings are on? I would like to try them out. Last night I watched a movie and noticed that when the credits were on the words were so bright they were glowing causing them not to look sharp, I don't think that they were blurring maybe just too bright??

Also noticed 2 new problems at that time when the screen was black, I have a green circle in the upper right quadrant of the screen and a red circle right below that in the lower right? Not sure what they are, looks like I may have to contact epson soon for a replacement. Does anyone know if the replacements are brand new units or refurbs that someone else sent in for warranty problems?


----------



## tiggermanh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19794448
> 
> 
> Guys do you think in a light controlled basement with dark walls and carpet with the required throw distance and a 1.3 gain matte white screen the 8350 could power a 130 inch screen for the long term ie. bulb life with out using dynamic?



I highly doubt it. the surface area you are trying to light will just not be bright enough and your contrast ratio will be off the charts.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


If you ran it in the Living room or Dynamic modes, possibly, but you are really pushing your image quality at that point.


I am pushing a 122" screen with a 1 gain matte myself, and the lower modes are pretty dark to where I have all but one row of canned lights on a dimmer on low.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tiggermanh* /forum/post/19794522
> 
> 
> ... I am pushing a 122" screen with a 1 gain matte myself, and the lower modes are pretty dark to where I have all but one row of canned lights on a dimmer on low.



Sounds like you're saying you can watch a 122" 1.0 gain screen with a bit of ambient light. 130" in a totally dark room will not be a problem, especially with a 1.3 gain screen. Even better if you use a fairly short throw distance.


----------



## tiggermanh

He asked if he could do it in eco mode, which I think he wont have a as good of a picture, too dark.


I find mine a little dark so tend to run it in living room mode.


My room has zero ambient light.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bensashi* /forum/post/19793951
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I've noticed some other weirdness with my projector that I've captured on video again - was hoping maybe someone might have a clue as to what's going on. When I first got the 8350 a week or two ago I had some issues with sending 1080p over HDMI which turned out to be a combination of crappy HDMI switch and a bad cable. Since getting a new receiver with HDMI inputs and removing the bad cable, all is well on that end.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I noticed some more issues yesterday when I finally hooked up my Wii. On certain screens the corners of the screen are distorted and flickery (see embedded video). So far I've really only noticed this when attempting to go into the Wii Shop Channel...once the Channel actually loads it doesn't seem to happen, and I was not able to recreate this at the Home screen or in System settings or anywhere else so far (I haven't tried playing games).
> 
> 
> I had it hooked up via the official Nintendo component cables to the receiver and then I was running a 25-ft component cable (which I've never had issues with before) to the projector. When I switch the signal from the receiver to be upscaled over HDMI rather than sent over component, the issue disappears. Thinking the problem might be the long component cable, I tried hooking the Wii up directly to the projector but the exact same problem occurred. Ultimately I think this is something I can live with since I can just play over HDMI, but I'm still worried about why this is happening. Has anyone else on here had similar problems?



is the Projector upscaling the image? I would try running it at the native resolution for Wii(eak) of 480i or p not sure which. and use original format that will have the black bars on the sides. seems like a scaling problem


----------



## kjr39

I would appreciate if if someone can verify if this is normal or not with the 8350. To me, it looks like blue is up and to the right whenever there is white text on the screen.


I took this from about 18" away.


Thanks!!!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19797318
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if if someone can verify if this is normal or not with the 8350. To me, it looks like blue is up and to the right whenever there is white text on the screen.
> 
> 
> I took this from about 18" away.
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!



I find that when the colour mode is at 7000-7500 whites push blue tone,

6000-6500 push whiter whites.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19797318
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if if someone can verify if this is normal or not with the 8350. To me, it looks like blue is up and to the right whenever there is white text on the screen.
> 
> 
> I took this from about 18" away.
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!



I have that too I noticed it before but comparing to your pics mine actually looks worse. It was my understanding that it is a conversion issue. I may call epson about a replacement


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/19794515
> 
> 
> I guess I will just have to live with the one I have for now I just bought it 2 months ago so not going to replace it. But honestly it sounds great as is and is def coming out in 5.1 sound so can't complain about that.
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me what page arts settings are on? I would like to try them out. Last night I watched a movie and noticed that when the credits were on the words were so bright they were glowing causing them not to look sharp, I don't think that they were blurring maybe just too bright??
> 
> Also noticed 2 new problems at that time when the screen was black, I have a green circle in the upper right quadrant of the screen and a red circle right below that in the lower right? Not sure what they are, looks like I may have to contact epson soon for a replacement. Does anyone know if the replacements are brand new units or refurbs that someone else sent in for warranty problems?



If it will do PCM and you have a PS3 decoding, then there is zero difference, no matter what anybody tries to tell you differently.


----------



## newfmp3

Anyone know anything about this mount? It's accessible to me here in canada - Costco. Just do not know if it will fit the large span of the Epson.

http://www.kantoav.com/products/projector-km-pm-300b


----------



## edmove

Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Just some final questions. I would like to have a 16 foot throw distance far a 120 16:9 inch screen. The theater room has no windows so complete light control. Any issues with my desired distance and screen size?


I will be building an AT screen. Do you recommend gray or white. Also what gain do you recommend at this size/distance?


Thanks.


----------



## bensashi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19794893
> 
> 
> is the Projector upscaling the image? I would try running it at the native resolution for Wii(eak) of 480i or p not sure which. and use original format that will have the black bars on the sides. seems like a scaling problem



I don't think it's a scaling issue. I had played around with both the resolution of the Wii (480i/480p) and changing the projector aspect to normal rather than full so it wasn't doing full-screen, and neither made a difference.


----------



## princeton3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19798731
> 
> 
> Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Just some final questions. I would like to have a 16 foot throw distance far a 120 16:9 inch screen. The theater room has no windows so complete light control. Any issues with my desired distance and screen size?
> 
> 
> I will be building an AT screen. Do you recommend gray or white. Also what gain do you recommend at this size/distance?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I have mine about 12' feet from 120", 16:9 Elite screen, and I haven't had any issues. My theater room setup appears similar to yours.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So I'm writing this out of fear really. After a month I'm absolutely loving my projector, it has changed my home theater and movie viewing experience altogether. That being said, my one gripe with it is it makes a sort of high pitched noise. It's really not loud, but it's noticable. It's definitely coming from the fan, and once again it's not loud at all, I think I may just be over thinking it. It almost sounds like a computer fan. Does anybody else experience this?


----------



## David_W

Quote:

Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* 
So I'm writing this out of fear really. After a month I'm absolutely loving my projector, it has changed my home theater and movie viewing experience altogether. That being said, my one gripe with it is it makes a sort of high pitched noise. It's really not loud, but it's noticable. It's definitely coming from the fan, and once again it's not loud at all, I think I may just be over thinking it. It almost sounds like a computer fan. Does anybody else experience this?
I've had the same issue, and posted here on 12-02-10, asking if anyone else had encountered the problem. Until that very day, I was specifically impressed by how extraordinarily quiet the fan was. When it was first set-up, I was inspired to put my hand in front of the vent to check that it was actually running.


The timing was unfortunate, coming just as the busy holiday season was approaching, and I still haven't taken action beyond checking warranty procedures. Evidently the options are to call and request a replacement, at which time they immediately ship the same model to me (re-conditioned, and not my own repaired unit) and place a hold on my credit card for an unspecified amount as security in case I don't return the defective unit. (I'm not crazy about that approach. Call me silly, but I feel some degree of attachment to mine, and wonder about the history of the unit being shipped to me). The other option is to call them and they will direct me to the nearest local repair facility.


I gathered this information from reading the warranty information, and the possibility exists that I interpreted something incorrectly. I haven't spoken with anyone at Epson, but plan to start the ball rolling in the near future. It's such a disappointment, given the otherwise high degree of satisfaction with the 8350. But I can't imagine putting up with the increased fan noise, either.


----------



## LooseScrews

I am getting ready to move my projector mount and trying to determine optimum location. Is there anyway to determine the optimum throw distance for the 8350 on an 84" wide (not diagonal) screen? The room is windowless, but we have to have some lighting because we play XBox Kinect. My first inclination is to use the shortest throw distance for 84" wide screen, however this will require me to use a large amount of vertical lens shift because we have 9' ceiling and many of the games have people jumping. I'm 6'0, so the projector needs to be mounted high. Will this affect the video quality to use lens shift? The projector will be mounted perfectly center on horizontal regardless of throw distance.


Also, I painted the wall with Home Depot "Silverscreen" back 7-8 years ago based on a forum recommendation. I don't know what gamma or anything. Should I consider repainting?


Lastly, I am going to rebuild my mask and likely staying with 16:9 ratio. The 8350 has a native 16:9. I like the 2.35:1 setups, but we play a lot of video games and have a lot of 4:3 and 16:9 movies. I guess my question is how should I play a 2.35:1 movie? Just look at the black bars (which really doesn't bother me) or choose one of the zoom projection modes?


----------



## lakersin2025

Anyone have any experience shooting onto a high gloss white wall? I have been reading this thread every day since Miss.Man started it. I'm addicted! We just moved into our new town home and after years of working on it I have my wife convinced we need a projector. I have about a 13' throw to the wall but this place is painted high gloss shiny white on all the walls. I guess it makes for easy cleanup like in the kitchen. Will I have any problems with hot spotting with the high gloss if I keep it in eco mode? Painting is not an option and I'm hoping to get 120".


My birthday is in a week and if I play my cards right I could have this puppy up in time for superbowl. Just have to find the best deal online now that have them in stock.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19798731
> 
> 
> Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 8350. Just some final questions. I would like to have a 16 foot throw distance far a 120 16:9 inch screen. The theater room has no windows so complete light control. Any issues with my desired distance and screen size?
> 
> *I will be building an AT screen. Do you recommend gray or white. Also what gain do you recommend at this size/distance?*
> 
> 
> Thanks.



What are you looking to make the screen out of? Only way that I know that you can build an AT screen and have a choice of gain is by spray painting a woven fabric. I have seen it done, but it can be pretty tricky. Too much paint and you lose AT characteristics. Can't start all over like you can on a solid material screen. I would practice a bunch of scrap material.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19802003
> 
> 
> Anyone have any experience shooting onto a high gloss white wall? I have been reading this thread every day since Miss.Man started it. I'm addicted! We just moved into our new town home and after years of working on it I have my wife convinced we need a projector. I have about a 13' throw to the wall but this place is painted high gloss shiny white on all the walls. I guess it makes for easy cleanup like in the kitchen. Will I have any problems with hot spotting with the high gloss if I keep it in eco mode? Painting is not an option and I'm hoping to get 120".
> 
> 
> My birthday is in a week and if I play my cards right I could have this puppy up in time for superbowl. Just have to find the best deal online now that have them in stock.



Back when i got my first PJ and had no screen for a few months. I used the PJ on a high Gloss white while waiting for screen. It wasn't miserable, and being my first PJ I was just so excited to see a big screen that I was happy anyways. But once I seen the image on a REAL screen....there's no comparison. It really is a huge leap going from wall to a nice screen. You might even find it a big glare'ish, hard on the eyes a bit. Bottom line....get a screen when you can. Meantime, go to dalite and draper and get some sample materials, 12" samples. Start comparing what you like more, high gain vs grey screens etc.


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *princeton3* /forum/post/19798773
> 
> 
> I have mine about 12' feet from 120", 16:9 Elite screen, and I haven't had any issues. My theater room setup appears similar to yours.



Which Elite screen you have? I'm considering the 110" Elite Sable CineWhite screen with 1.1 gain. Also considering the EluneVision 106" in 1.1 gain grey or 1.2 gain white. Throw distance will be around 17' or so with seating distance at about 16'. 110" is pretty much as wide as I can go for the room and still have room for my other stuff that needs to be on that wall.


What do you think?


----------



## cdelena




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19803944
> 
> 
> Which Elite screen you have? I'm considering the 110" Elite Sable CineWhite screen with 1.1 gain. Also considering the EluneVision 106" in 1.1 gain grey or 1.2 gain white. Throw distance will be around 17' or so with seating distance at about 16'. 110" is pretty much as wide as I can go for the room and still have room for my other stuff that needs to be on that wall.
> 
> 
> What do you think?



This is a bright PJ, at least when new. I have a 110" screen with a 1.0 gain and even with a 19' throw it was too bright to use the dynamic mode at full power. I eventually settled on settings with the bulb saver mode and it is still a good bright picture.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/19803944
> 
> 
> Which Elite screen you have? I'm considering the 110" Elite Sable CineWhite screen with 1.1 gain. Also considering the*** *EluneVision 106" in 1.1 gain grey* or 1.2 gain white. Throw distance will be around 17' or so with seating distance at about 16'. 110" is pretty much as wide as I can go for the room and still have room for my other stuff that needs to be on that wall.
> 
> 
> What do you think?


*** This would be a very effective option, especially using "Living Room Mode" and with the Auto Iris engaged.


----------



## EJ

I'm getting ready to buy this projector. I've heard good things about Epson replacing defective product. Do they seem like a good company when it comes to these situations?


----------



## dvrmstrng

If you take the time to read through this thread, it seems like even the people with the smallest issues are being given replacements under warranty without problem.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

The only problem with that policy is you run the risk of getting a replacement that's worse in some respect (e.g. convergence). For something as simple as dust blobs I'd rather they cleaned and returned the same unit.


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cdelena* /forum/post/19803981
> 
> 
> This is a bright PJ, at least when new. I have a 110" screen with a 1.0 gain and even with a 19' throw it was too bright to use the dynamic mode at full power. I eventually settled on settings with the bulb saver mode and it is still a good bright picture.



I tried this last night and calibrated a picture using Dynamic in econo mode. This has turned out to be my best looking mode yet, thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## jays_on

I have a 106" screen and VERY little ambient light. Epson's manual says I can use a throw as close as about 10'. But the pj calculator is showing a 14' throw, If I go closer is it turns red and says "Recommended Image brightness for rooms with ambient light". Isn't brighter better? Or should I set my mount at the reccomended 14'?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19782261
> 
> 
> How is everyone finding the black levels with this PJ? I've got just under 100hrs on it, throwing a 125" picture, ~14' away to an Elite 1.1g white 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> I'm using Art's settings and have found the black level detail not that great. Dark movies seem to lose detail, I can't see the detail or outline of a black car with a black background. Or I can't see a person's black hair detail if its a dark scene etc. What settings should I change?



I haven't used any calibration discs other than the Contrast and Brightness tool that's on the wall-e BD, but here are my basic settings on 106" white 1.1g;


cinema mode

brightness -9 (-10 post WOW calibration)

contrast +10 (+5 post WOW cal.)

saturation +1

6500k

Iris normal

Gamma 2.4

hdmi mode Expanded

Superwhite off


With this I AM able to "see the detail or outline of a black car with a black background and black hair detail" as you mentioned, while maintaining pretty good blacks. Like you, it bugs me to not see all of the image that was intended to be seen.


Of course there are lots of variables, throw distance, ambient light, lens shift, player settings (such as superwhite on PS3 which is off with my settings) also have my Pixel Format set to YCbCr 4.4.4 in the ATI CCC on my HTPC. I seem to like my settings better than any other I've tried so far. I ordered the WOW disc so we'll see. Anyone care to try it and offer feedback?

*EDIT:*

Superwhite on the ps3 doesn't seem to make any diff, however settings RGB to full does help.


----------



## akrasna

Ok I got my unit last week- and I am enjoying it - but now need to get ready for the formal mount etc.


A few questions if I may - (most I am assuming from monoprice)


What Gauge cable should I get for my HDMI cable (35 feet) to go up to my projector ...


I read somewhere on this thread (and then lost it) about little "jumper cables" from monoprice which are good to use for the end of the cable run which bend easier to make the final connection to the unit - anyone have a link to that item?


I am going to try my wii with Component cables - most component runs have 5 wires 3 video and 2 (thinner) audio - I really only need the 3 since my audio will stop earlier .... Question is can I use one of the thinner "audio" cable as the Video cable for my composite cable (still have SD TV - don't ask)

(35 feet)


Ceiling mount

A lot of people were talking about the good $14 mount from monoprice -

I can't tell from the image description how far down it goes -

I also saw a few comments about an ebay guy - "kramerica inc"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220682270261 

anyone have experience.


Here are my priorities for a mount -
Strong enough for my proj








can rotate - I will be pointing it in various positions.
EASY TO REMOVE - I will be taking it down fairly often ..
Inexpensive - the Kramerica one with a natural 4" drop and an addin to 8" drop - costs about $60 shipped. I would not want to pay more than that.
Can be mounted in a cement ceiling
Pleasant looking - yes - this is going in our living room and wife not to thrilled I am doing any of this ...



I would also like to hear what other cables it pays to order to make the use of this projector.


Thank you all- and I may be posting some interesting math questions later about my projector placement -as my usage is unique.


Thanks to everyone in this thread I got a ton or really good info from it -


Allen


----------



## wpgcabby

If I was you I would get an HDMI switching receiver and just have a single HDMI cable go to the projector.


----------



## jays_on

One thing I would suggest is investing in a receiver that will send your wii's component signal over hdmi to your pj. Just one of the many advantages to a decent avr. They aren't that $$$ either. Plus it will save you from buying a $35 component cable, + it will upconvert the signal!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+7...&skuId=9749385 


**Blast you wpgcabby!**


----------



## suade907

Hey Guys just got mine on order but am comtemplating mounting options as i do not have a dedicated room. I've had projectors in the past but this sucker is huge and the wife may give me grief.


My question is can you mount this bad boy flush to the ceiling with no mount hanging down? Are there any screw holes in the chassis?


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19809549
> 
> 
> One thing I would suggest is investing in a receiver that will send your wii's component signal over hdmi to your pj. Just one of the many advantages to a decent avr. They aren't that $$$ either. Plus it will save you from buying a $35 component cable, + it will upconvert the signal!
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+7...&skuId=9749385
> 
> 
> **Blast you wpgcabby!**



Great minds think alike!


----------



## skypop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suade907* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys just got mine on order but am comtemplating mounting options as i do not have a dedicated room. I've had projectors in the past but this sucker is huge and the wife may give me grief.
> 
> 
> My question is can you mount this bad boy flush to the ceiling with no mount hanging down? Are there any screw holes in the chassis?



I need to know this also because I only have a 7' ceiling in my ManCave/HT, don't want to put it on a table but if I have to I will.


----------



## wpgcabby

You will be fine, the lense shift feature works well. I had my projector to the left side and low and was able to center the picture. If your projector is mounted so it lines up with the center of the screen but at ceiling level you will be fine. I bet you could even get part of the image on the floor with lense shift.


----------



## N1GHTRA1N

Anyone know if this mount is fine for Epson 8350? Looks okay to me.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...?EdpNo=2513704 

http://www.costco.ca/Browse/Product....204&lang=en-CA


----------



## Jesijames

Hey all, long time reader, first time poster. Purchased the 8350 back in november. Dedicated ht room with a 110" screen. Quick question about tweaking the picture. When displaying the epson provided pattern on the screen, should i have the outlined white box at the edge of the screen, or should i have the projector's light edge at the end of the screen(box would be a few pixels in from the edge)?


----------



## jjsaustin

My friend has this one from Monoprice and said it works.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Only $12


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Jesijames* 
Hey all, long time reader, first time poster. Purchased the 8350 back in november. Dedicated ht room with a 110" screen. Quick question about tweaking the picture. When displaying the epson provided pattern on the screen, should i have the outlined white box at the edge of the screen, or should i have the projector's light edge at the end of the screen(box would be a few pixels in from the edge)?
Good question! I'd like to know too.


----------



## whiteshirtkyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whiteshirtkyd* /forum/post/19799759
> 
> 
> So I'm writing this out of fear really. After a month I'm absolutely loving my projector, it has changed my home theater and movie viewing experience altogether. That being said, my one gripe with it is it makes a sort of high pitched noise. It's really not loud, but it's noticable. It's definitely coming from the fan, and once again it's not loud at all, I think I may just be over thinking it. It almost sounds like a computer fan. Does anybody else experience this?



Bumping this.


Does anybody else have this problem? or is this a normal thing? if not I've read Epson has a great replacement program, just making sure everythings alright and I don't want to send this back if nothings wrong.


----------



## akrasna




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19809918
> 
> 
> Great minds think alike!




Thank you both Equally -

I am looking at a specific receiver. I live outside the states - and pricing etc play a huge part - and I am still not 100% sure the one I am looking at allows all the output to be redirected to a single HDMI - it is a Harmon Kardon 100 series - I think 109 - but it is not sold on its own only in a package (and in my case in Duty free at the airport so can't look at it till i fly next ) I have a picture of the back and I guess since I saw Component out and composit out in addition to hdmi out I thought that it does not do that - I guess I need to check more )


Taking the assumption that I will need the severla lon hall cables = 35ft

what gauge HDMI do I need?


will the composite go through the component audio cable?


does anyone have a link to the short jump cables I mentioned above.


Thanks

Allen


----------



## mikbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19812389
> 
> 
> Good question! I'd like to know too.



The pattern the epson throws up is not at the extreme limit of the resolution so stick to the light output. The pattern is useful for determining if your geometry is good though.


If you want to calibrate the image size using the maximum limit of the displayed image use a calibration disc like AVIA or Spears and Munsil (or even a pattern downloaded to disc on the net, as long at it throws a 1920x1080 pixel image).


----------



## sas_aaron

hi all,


1) I am strongly considering buying this projector, however I read from somewhere that this projector accept 1080p 24fps, however output the actual picture as 48fps , is it true? or it can output true 1080p 24fps signal??


2) I saw the lowest price for this projector is $1079 at amazon about 5-6weeks ago, however the price went up to $1279-$1299. I saw it's $1199 at other websites. do u guys know which online store offers a better price currently? or with coupon code deal?


----------



## mikbro

In addition to the advance replacement they also offer you the option to send your projector back to them first (using their Fedex account number so no cost). Once they receive it they will send the replacement next day air. In this scenario there is no credit card needed but you are without your project for a period of time.


----------



## mikbro

The projector offers 2:2 pull down which will take a 24 fps signal and essentially double the frames. This usually results in a smoother picture. If you don't want this you can disable this and the pic will be displayed at 24 frames per second.


----------



## soutthpaw

suggested retail price is $1299.... if you have the money to buy outright, contact the forum sponsors at the top of the page they have been known to match prices and have good service. I got mine from BestBuy only due to the 3 yr financing deal and it was on sale. $1199 should not be too hard to find, anything less than that is a real deal... though price is not everything, make sure u buy from a reliable retailer...


----------



## lakersin2025

It's official! My wife started inviting people to our house for the Superbowl to watch it on the new projector! I'm so pumped! I'll have a 12' throw onto a high gloss white wall for a 110" picture, not ideal but will have to work for now. My next mission will be to convince her we need to paint a screen on the wall or build a DIY.


Now I just need to try and find the best deal. $1,200 shipped seems to be the going rate right now.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19815715
> 
> 
> Now I just need to try and find the best deal. $1,200 shipped seems to be the going rate right now.



If you are a Bestbuy Rewardzone Premier Silver Member there is a 12% off coupon for projectors until the 16th. Brings it to $1145. Makes it easy to return or exchange within 45 days if you need to as well.


If you aren't a rewardzone premier silver but know someone who is you can use their account, you just have to have their ph # and this mobile coupon.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjsaustin* /forum/post/19812286
> 
> 
> My friend has this one from Monoprice and said it works.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Only $12



I would consider it but I saw this review; "I''d rate this much higher but it simply will not work with my Epson UB!! The spacing is too far apart". How did your friend get it to work?


----------



## samiam95124

Hi,


I am looking to buy an Epson 8350 projector. I have downloaded the manual, and worked everything out to my satisfaction, distance to the screen, placement, everything.


However, I am not making any headway on the mount. I have an existing Ch***f RPA mount. I see this mentioned several times around the net as being an acceptable mount for the Epson 8350. It comes down to the plate at the bottom which is attached by 6 screws to the projector, this has to be custom for the projector type. It is something like an SLB-168. I verified my old plate won't work, it is/was for a Sony projector.


The web site "projector selector" is not helpful, it just dumps you into a large list of different mounts. A call to the maker was not helpful, they told me it was actually an EPSON emp-350i projector which makes no sense at all. They recommended an SLB-026 adapter, which may be correct, but I have no way to verify that, since the online information carries no dimensions.


So far I have:


SLB-168 (found in this thread)

SLB-026 (told to me by C***f


Please I would like to verify this information. The plate is not cheap, and I don't want to order the projector if I cannot mount it. Also, please I don't wish to change to a completely different mount. My RPA mount is very solidly mounted to ceiling joists, and it was a lot of work to put it up there. I am very happy with it.


Thank you,


Scott Moore


----------



## jjsaustin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19816172
> 
> 
> I would consider it but I saw this review; "I''d rate this much higher but it simply will not work with my Epson UB!! The spacing is too far apart". How did your friend get it to work?



He didn't say that he had any problems and said it was fine. I had asked him because I bought the same projector and was thinking of replacing my mount. I will have to ask him again.


----------



## freestylemx989

Thinking about purchasing this projector after reading so many positive experiences. The only 2 things I'm worried about are black levels and screen vs wall.


1.) From current owners...how would you compare the black levels of the 8350 to a current Plasma or LED tv? The Reason I ask is that I just purchased a Samsung PN50C7000 plasma TV. I like the tv and generally like the black levels, but I find myself noticing and appreciating a dark black level with friends tv's and others at bestbuy, etc. It just looks better. How will this projector likely compare with my new TV or other recent tvs?


2.) This will be my first projector. I honestly have enjoyed watching Movies and games on my friends 3-4 year old Projector. Not sure what It is, but it was quite expensive I know. Probably 720p...if that... Definitely not 1080p. He projects it on the wall and I enjoyed it-even with the textured walls. I have a feeling that this projector is MUCH, MUCH better than his and I'm considering the cost -benefit of buying a screen. I've read nothing but positive things for buying a screen. My question is...with my new apartment, comes matt walls in a cream-white color. Few if any marks or dings on the wall. What are your experiences of using this projector on a plain wall...My projector would sit anywhere from 9-12 feet from the wall. I'm obviously not a videophile, but I do want a pretty good picture...equaling or better than my new TV...


Sorry For the Dumb and Wordy questions...

Thanks in advance,

Bob


----------



## whiteshirtkyd

So I've decided I am going to ship this out for a replacement one. The noise is definitely there, and while it doesn't seem like a serious issue, I'm still not sure it's normal.


Can anybody tell me what the process is like when you ship one of these out? I've heard they send you a new unit, and after recieving the new one you ship the old one back.


What's the status of the ones they ship you? Are they new or refurbished? how about the bulbs in them? Any help is appreciated!


----------



## hokieirish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* /forum/post/19819201
> 
> 
> Thinking about purchasing this projector after reading so many positive experiences. The only 2 things I'm worried about are black levels and screen vs wall.
> 
> 
> 1.) From current owners...how would you compare the black levels of the 8350 to a current Plasma or LED tv? The Reason I ask is that I just purchased a Samsung PN50C7000 plasma TV. I like the tv and generally like the black levels, but I find myself noticing and appreciating a dark black level with friends tv's and others at bestbuy, etc. It just looks better. How will this projector likely compare with my new TV or other recent tvs?
> 
> 
> 2.) This will be my first projector. I honestly have enjoyed watching Movies and games on my friends 3-4 year old Projector. Not sure what It is, but it was quite expensive I know. Probably 720p...if that... Definitely not 1080p. He projects it on the wall and I enjoyed it-even with the textured walls. I have a feeling that this projector is MUCH, MUCH better than his and I'm considering the cost -benefit of buying a screen. I've read nothing but positive things for buying a screen. My question is...with my new apartment, comes matt walls in a cream-white color. Few if any marks or dings on the wall. What are your experiences of using this projector on a plain wall...My projector would sit anywhere from 9-12 feet from the wall. I'm obviously not a videophile, but I do want a pretty good picture...equaling or better than my new TV...
> 
> 
> Sorry For the Dumb and Wordy questions...
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bob



I can't answer the question about comparing the black levels since I went from a 4 year old Sony LCD tv to the 8350, but I do have a similar apartment setup to yours. My projector sits about 10-11 feet from the wall and the picture is excellent with a regular HD cable feed. When I pop in a blu ray, it blows me away. All on just a white wall. The only negative I've noticed is that light reflects everywhere and lights up the whole room. I've gotten used to it though, and it never bothered me much anyway. I'm very curious to see how much better it'll get when I'm able to get a real screen one day. I can't imagine a blu ray looking much better.


----------



## EJ

If you're using a painted wall as a screen, make sure it's a flat finish and not eggshell or semi-gloss. !1 years ago, I remember the diy section recommended a Sherwin Williams paint, but I can't remember what shade.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* /forum/post/19819201
> 
> 
> Thinking about purchasing this projector after reading so many positive experiences. The only 2 things I'm worried about are black levels and screen vs wall.
> 
> 
> 1.) From current owners...how would you compare the black levels of the 8350 to a current Plasma or LED tv? The Reason I ask is that I just purchased a Samsung PN50C7000 plasma TV. I like the tv and generally like the black levels, but I find myself noticing and appreciating a dark black level with friends tv's and others at bestbuy, etc. It just looks better. How will this projector likely compare with my new TV or other recent tvs?
> 
> 
> 2.) This will be my first projector. I honestly have enjoyed watching Movies and games on my friends 3-4 year old Projector. Not sure what It is, but it was quite expensive I know. Probably 720p...if that... Definitely not 1080p. He projects it on the wall and I enjoyed it-even with the textured walls. I have a feeling that this projector is MUCH, MUCH better than his and I'm considering the cost -benefit of buying a screen. I've read nothing but positive things for buying a screen. My question is...with my new apartment, comes matt walls in a cream-white color. Few if any marks or dings on the wall. What are your experiences of using this projector on a plain wall...My projector would sit anywhere from 9-12 feet from the wall. I'm obviously not a videophile, but I do want a pretty good picture...equaling or better than my new TV...
> 
> 
> Sorry For the Dumb and Wordy questions...
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bob




Can't comment precisely on the black level comparison. my PJ is a few days away yet. Having 3 plasma's myself and a DLP projector, even the DLP can not touch the plasma. I don't think it's good to expect plasma like black on a PJ. Now when I get the unit I might be surprised by it, but a $1300 dollar PJ hitting plasma like blacks....probably not.


Screen is far far better then a wall. I repeat this 5 times a week, but get the screen samples from draper, Da-lite, Carada etc. It cost nothing and once you see the samples with your own eyes, the guess work is done - reading things here doesn't give you a good idea of what to expect as everyone sees things differently, and desribes it even more differently. To echo previous poster, if your shooting on a wall - flat paint is better.


I'll have my PJ probably early next week, I'll comment more then. Epson Canada has a 15% off deal for their news letter subscribers btw


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

I've had the 8350 for over a month now and have around 150 hours on it. Reading through this forum, I have seen mention of using a calibration disk to fine tune the picture. So a few questions:


1. Are there certain calibration disks that are better for projectors? Do you guys have any recommendations?


2. What is a best practice when utilizing a calibration disk? At this point, I only seem to use Dynamic and Cinema mode on my projector. I use Dynamic mostly for video games, sports, and some TV and Cinema for just that... movies. So, knowing that, does it make the most sense to calibrate both of those modes and let leave it at that?


3. The 8350 seems to have a pretty good Dynamic and Cinema mode out of the box. Should I expect a minor, good, or great improvement in the picture quality after some time spent on calibration?


My projector is in a room with no/little ambient light, projecting at about 14' feet on a 120" Elite 1.1 screen.


Just want to make sure I am educated and have proper expectations before I spend money on a calibration disk. Thanks.


----------



## wpgcabby

I'm really happy with the Disney WOW disk, it is worth picking up. Very easy to follow the instructions and all the TV's in my house look much better now


----------



## Mikey_Dawg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19820755
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with the Disney WOW disk, it is worth picking up. Very easy to follow the instructions and all the TV's in my house look much better now



Thanks... that is the disk I was leaning torwards. I am pretty happy with the picture out of the box and I have made a few tweaks based on Art's review/calibration settings... BUT, I do feel like I can improve the projector picture.


After going through the WOW configuration, did you have any specific areas that you felt like you improved?


----------



## SmoothGS

I'm happy with the AVS HD 709 disc. The 8350 is my first pj, but using it definitely helped with black levels. Plus its Free!!


I used it in Cinema mode, and I assume I should go through each colour mode with the disc.


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikey_Dawg* /forum/post/19821088
> 
> 
> Thanks... that is the disk I was leaning torwards. I am pretty happy with the picture out of the box and I have made a few tweaks based on Art's review/calibration settings... BUT, I do feel like I can improve the projector picture.
> 
> 
> After going through the WOW configuration, did you have any specific areas that you felt like you improved?



It was the overall picture that improved. Picture settings change based on the light in the room at any given time. The optimal settings you use during the day will be different then settings you use at night. The settings you use with lights on, will be different then settings with lights off. Over time bulb brightness decreases and calibration needs to be done again to achieve maximum quality. Thats why the disc and memory presets are a good thing to have!


----------



## Mikey_Dawg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19821134
> 
> 
> I'm happy with the AVS HD 709 disc. The 8350 is my first pj, but using it definitely helped with black levels. Plus its Free!!
> 
> 
> I used it in Cinema mode, and I assume I should go through each colour mode with the disc.



Yep, might start out with this route first... If I can get my DVD burner to work. So it sounds like a few of the options I planned on checking out would work. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19819510
> 
> 
> If you're using a painted wall as a screen, make sure it's a flat finish and not eggshell or semi-gloss. !1 years ago, I remember the diy section recommended a Sherwin Williams paint, but I can't remember what shade.




Crap. Now I am scared. I have pretty high gloss white walls in my apartment and a screen is not an option right now. Will I be hating it if this is the best I can do for now?


----------



## Jamosb78

I got my replacement 8350 on Tuesday. Epson ships them out via Fedex overnight...

Set up the new unit, and once I was satisfied that it was working well, I boxed up the old one following the included instructions and dropped it off at a Fedex location. They put a hold on my CC for the cost of a new projector until they receive the old one back.


That's it. Very easy, very pleased with the Epson customer service. Some people may think that sending the unit back due to a dust blob is not worth it, but why would you not? It's a sizable spot on the image that will be there indefinitely. I mean, I know this projector is not high-end, but for $1000+ you should be happy with the product, no matter what it is.


I asked if the supplied replacement units were new or refurbs, and was told they are new. All packaging was identical to my original unit. Lamp hours showed up as 0. New projector looks awesome!


----------



## fraisa

Some Free Advice,,,,,

Make sure you get your Epson 8350 Inspected before You Purchase your unit,.

Will save you headache in the future....

AVS does Inspect 8700 before purchase so i would think they would do the same with the 8350....

If you Order a 8350 without having it inspected ,

You better be ready to use the warrenty

Which is the best in the industry

But again save yourself the headache and get it from a place that will inspect the unit.......


----------



## lakersin2025

Any advantage to purchasing from VisualApex through Amazon vs. just going directly through VisualApex?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19822959
> 
> 
> Any advantage to purchasing from VisualApex through Amazon vs. just going directly through VisualApex?



I would rather always deal direct rather than thru amazon....

Just make sure Visual Apex puts your Projector thru a qc inspection...

...\\


----------



## chadinatl

Someone asked about the Projector Gear mount for the 8350. I had used one of their mounts on my Infocus 4805 and decided to use them again.


It comes with nice directions and does everything they claim. My only complaint and my other was like this too is its just bright ugly aluminum. In this case, I painted it flat white to match the 8350. Underneath the huge 8350, its not even noticed now. Funny though, its just a side business for some metal fab company.


It seems plenty strong and I think is fine for the money compared to several of the other mounts I looked at.


Their web page is their name too.





PS - the Infocus sold on Craigslist in


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19819640
> 
> 
> Can't comment precisely on the black level comparison. my PJ is a few days away yet. Having 3 plasma's myself and a DLP projector, even the DLP can not touch the plasma. I don't think it's good to expect plasma like black on a PJ. Now when I get the unit I might be surprised by it, but a $1300 dollar PJ hitting plasma like blacks....probably not.
> 
> 
> Screen is far far better then a wall. I repeat this 5 times a week, but get the screen samples from draper, Da-lite, Carada etc. It cost nothing and once you see the samples with your own eyes, the guess work is done - reading things here doesn't give you a good idea of what to expect as everyone sees things differently, and desribes it even more differently. To echo previous poster, if your shooting on a wall - flat paint is better.
> 
> 
> I'll have my PJ probably early next week, I'll comment more then. Epson Canada has a 15% off deal for their news letter subscribers btw



I'm a news letter subscriber and didn't see this. Do you have a link?


----------



## Elmo C




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamosb78* /forum/post/19822795
> 
> 
> I got my replacement 8350 on Tuesday. Epson ships them out via Fedex overnight...
> 
> Set up the new unit, and once I was satisfied that it was working well, I boxed up the old one following the included instructions and dropped it off at a Fedex location. They put a hold on my CC for the cost of a new projector until they receive the old one back.
> 
> 
> That's it. Very easy, very pleased with the Epson customer service. Some people may think that sending the unit back due to a dust blob is not worth it, but why would you not? It's a sizable spot on the image that will be there indefinitely. I mean, I know this projector is not high-end, but for $1000+ you should be happy with the product, no matter what it is.
> 
> 
> I asked if the supplied replacement units were new or refurbs, and was told they are new. All packaging was identical to my original unit. Lamp hours showed up as 0. New projector looks awesome!



There's nothing wrong with being satisfied , glad it worked out for ya.


As to blacks, they are better than my Sony 55 inch lcd and the overall picture is pretty amazing for less than the cost of the Sony a few years back.


I'm shooting on a light grey flat wall with my 130in screen on the way,still less than the Sony cost, very satisfied.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N1GHTRA1N* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a news letter subscriber and didn't see this. Do you have a link?



Out of stock now anyways. Sale is good until 18th. I have a feeling we were not supposed to be able to use the code on the 8350 as it says in the fine print, no home theater pj's. Sounds like someone Made a booboo. That being said, mine shipped and card was charged 1190 and tax. Screen shipped too from da lite after waiting for ages, and mount shipped as well. I got some play'n to do soon


----------



## fraisa

Again will continue

Make sure you get your 8350 from a place that does a QC inspection on the units...

Right now Epson is out of stock and are doing everything they can to restock the north americian market,

they also have a failure rate ratio that they will be trying to keep,

that rate wont be zero.

So as they restock the market make sure you get yours QC inspected....


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikbro* /forum/post/19815080
> 
> 
> The pattern the epson throws up is not at the extreme limit of the resolution so stick to the light output. The pattern is useful for determining if your geometry is good though.
> 
> 
> If you want to calibrate the image size using the maximum limit of the displayed image use a calibration disc like AVIA or Spears and Munsil (or even a pattern downloaded to disc on the net, as long at it throws a 1920x1080 pixel image).



Thanks very much for the info.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19822941
> 
> 
> Some Free Advice,,,,,
> 
> Make sure you get your Epson 8350 Inspected before You Purchase your unit,.
> 
> Will save you headache in the future....
> 
> AVS does Inspect 8700 before purchase so i would think they would do the same with the 8350....
> 
> If you Order a 8350 without having it inspected ,
> 
> You better be ready to use the warrenty
> 
> Which is the best in the industry
> 
> But again save yourself the headache and get it from a place that will inspect the unit.......



If the service is available, it's a no-brainer. Personally, I got very lucky with my 8350. No blobs, hazes or convergence issues that I can see. Even the lens shift controls seem nicely resilient compared to some reports in this thread. But like I said, I got lucky and bought it sight-unseen from a US retailer and had it shipped to the Canadian border, from where i picked it up.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjsaustin* /forum/post/19812286
> 
> 
> My friend has this one from Monoprice and said it works.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Only $12



I actually have this one on order. It should be here Monday so I can tell you if it works without modification or not.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19825423
> 
> 
> I actually have this one on order. It should be here Monday so I can tell you if it works without modification or not.



I have this one too. For a couple of weeks I used it without modification, using just three of the 5 mounting holes. It worked, but was very easily moved, to the point that one had to hold the projector still while operating the lens shift controls.


With a mod, and using all the holes it's pretty steady and works like a charm. To get all five holes required two extensions and a de novo arm for the front centre hole. Very satisfied for the price!


----------



## dswdallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmoothGS* /forum/post/19821134
> 
> 
> I'm happy with the AVS HD 709 disc. The 8350 is my first pj, but using it definitely helped with black levels. Plus its Free!!
> 
> 
> I used it in Cinema mode, and I assume I should go through each colour mode with the disc.



Once you're calibrated that's it, you don't need to go thru all the various user modes (I don't believe).

I don't have an Epson (JVC HD250) but I assume that you have one or two settings called User 1 and 2 or something along those lines.

I kept the Cinema, Dynamic, etc modes as they were and used the User 1 and User 2 buttons to custom calibrate for both bat cave and ambient light situations. I used the WOW disc and found color and tint very close but did need to adjust brightness and contrast. Colors are great and blacks were noticeably better (toggling back and forth from Cinema 1 and User 1 that I calibrated) looking at the black bars on 2:35 to 1 movies. I've used AVIA dvd and AVIA HD disks in the past and the WOW disk is much easier to use and I like the results better.

Hope that helps some. Don


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19825466
> 
> 
> I have this one too. For a couple of weeks I used it without modification, using just three of the 5 mounting holes. It worked, but was very easily moved, to the point that one had to hold the projector still while operating the lens shift controls.
> 
> 
> With a mod, and using all the holes it's pretty steady and works like a charm. To get all five holes required two extensions and a de novo arm for the front centre hole. Very satisfied for the price!



Good to know. I debated for a while before ordering but I decided to go ahead and take the chance.


----------



## Scruff2

Hi everyone, after reading 50+ pages of this thread, I went out and purchased the 8350 yesterday. I am putting it in a 13x16 room and will throw about 14ft. Hoping for a 120-130in picture on the 13ft wall. I don't have a screen yet as the basement is just getting finished this week. I hope this works better than the Dell 5100mp I have. It is bright but the biggest screen I can get is 105" and its 4.3 native.


Looking for a ceiling mount now as I didn't want to pay the 159.00 that Best Buy wanted... same unit googles for 89.00 lol


I really hope I am not disappointed with the 8350. With all the good reviews, it seems I am setting myself up to be let down.


----------



## fraisa

I dont understand why people want to cheap out on the ceiling mount...

Invest time and find the best mount and spend the money

Its worth it..

BTW the mounts at bb are Garbage...

Crap,

A big mac combo has better value than those mounts.....


----------



## Scruff2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19826823
> 
> 
> I dont understand why people want to cheap out on the ceiling mount...
> 
> Invest time and find the best mount and spend the money
> 
> Its worth it..
> 
> BTW the mounts at bb are Garbage...
> 
> Crap,
> 
> A big mac combo has better value than those mounts.....




I didn't mean that I was unwilling to spend 159.00 on a mount... just not spending that from bb when it sells for half that everywhere else.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scruff2* /forum/post/19826876
> 
> 
> I didn't mean that I was unwilling to spend 159.00 on a mount... just not spending that from bb when it sells for half that everywhere else.



Gotcha,

You would be amazed that people dont want to get the best ceiling mount for there projector...

You have lens shift problems and your unit is ceiling mounted ,

what mount do you have...

Every unit i put in from epson is not experiancing any lens shift issues...


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19826921
> 
> 
> Gotcha,
> 
> You would be amazed that people dont want to get the best ceiling mount for there projector...
> 
> You have lens shift problems and your unit is ceiling mounted ,
> 
> what mount do you have...
> 
> Every unit i put in from epson is not experiancing any lens shift issues...



How do you even associate the lens shift problem to the mount you use? Mine has the problem and I will put money on the fact that my mount is a sturdy or sturdier than any you sell.... also bolted directly to cross members that I installed specifically for the projector. show me a commercial made mount that uses solid 1/4 steel and aluminum plate throughout..


----------



## Scruff2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19827134
> 
> 
> How do you even associate the lens shift problem to the mount you use? Mine has the problem and I will put money on the fact that my mount is a sturdy or sturdier than any you sell.... also bolted directly to cross members that I installed specifically for the projector. show me a commercial made mount that uses solid 1/4 steel and aluminum plate throughout..



What mount do you use? I am interested.


----------



## lakersin2025

Just pulled the trigger and ordered it from Visual Apex. I can't wait! They just got them in stock today so I hope it ships today too. WA to CA shouldn't take to long.


I will play with the placement to figure out how long of an HDMI cable I need and then try to find one in white to match the ceiling for the "wife" factor. I have wanted a projector for years so I am super pumped to get it. Thanks everyone for all the helpful info in this thread and in all the other screen and DIY threads!


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* 
How do you even associate the lens shift problem to the mount you use? Mine has the problem and I will put money on the fact that my mount is a sturdy or sturdier than any you sell.... also bolted directly to cross members that I installed specifically for the projector. show me a commercial made mount that uses solid 1/4 steel and aluminum plate throughout..








I want what your smokin.......


Most people on this site are Fence Sitters when it comes to Buying things

and They are mostly out for a deal and getting things as cheap as possible

and thats not my market at All nor do i want it to be...


Personally if people are buying online they need to buy from this site,

AVS gives the best service for there products,

and they also have a really good promo running on the 8700.....



I will clearly state a point ,

Not one of my Epson Projectors have a lens shift problem,

Why i believe its Because of the Epson Pro 800 Mount....


I do find the mount makes a difference...


----------



## volleb91

Currently remodeling our basement and I'm in the process of wiring and building shelf for this unit. My shelf is approx 15' from where the screen will be. I'm hoping for an appox 100" screen. The shelf will be approx 16 inches from the ceiling. I'm guessing based on what I've read that this should fall within the parameters of this unit and that I won't need to do a ceiling mount either closer to the screen or extended lower from the ceiling. My biggest concern is the vertical shift that a projector or this projector allows for. New to projectors so sorry for the simple question...but does this sound like I'm in the ballpark? Thanks!!


----------



## dvrmstrng

Has anyone here attempted to calibrate with the AVS709 and a macbook or similar mac product. Even with blacklight installed I cannot even get the bars in the initial brightness test to show up to begin calibration. Im somewhat confused.


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I want what your smokin.......
> 
> 
> Most people on this site are Fence Sitters when it comes to Buying things
> 
> and They are mostly out for a deal and getting things as cheap as possible
> 
> and thats not my market at All nor do i want it to be...
> 
> 
> Personally if people are buying online they need to buy from this site,
> 
> AVS gives the best service for there products,
> 
> and they also have a really good promo running on the 8700.....
> 
> 
> I will clearly state a point ,
> 
> Not one of my Epson Projectors have a lens shift problem,
> 
> Why i believe its Because of the Epson Pro 800 Mount....
> 
> 
> I do find the mount makes a difference...



What model mount you have? Link please?


----------



## mekkerl

Do I need an AVR that upscales the signal to the projector? Or does the projector do all this?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19828585
> 
> 
> I want what your smokin.......
> 
> 
> Most people on this site are Fence Sitters when it comes to Buying things
> 
> and They are mostly out for a deal and getting things as cheap as possible
> 
> and thats not my market at All nor do i want it to be...
> 
> 
> Personally if people are buying online they need to buy from this site,
> 
> AVS gives the best service for there products,
> 
> and they also have a really good promo running on the 8700.....
> 
> 
> 
> I will clearly state a point ,
> 
> Not one of my Epson Projectors have a lens shift problem,
> 
> Why i believe its Because of the Epson Pro 800 Mount....
> 
> 
> I do find the mount makes a difference...



curious, but do you know who actually makes the Epson mount?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19828997
> 
> 
> curious, but do you know who actually makes the Epson mount?



Yes i do its made and designed for epson units by Premier Mounts..

It is Designed Exclusively for epson


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19828905
> 
> 
> What model mount you have? Link please?


 http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/P...egory=Products 


Picture in unit is not the revised one....


----------



## fraisa

For The Record........

If a QC inspection is done on a 8350 it does not void any part of your warranty

or will it cause any warranty problems

If anyone tells you different they dont want to do it.....

Why

Connect the Dots.........


----------



## Mikey_Dawg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *volleb91* /forum/post/19828780
> 
> 
> Currently remodeling our basement and I'm in the process of wiring and building shelf for this unit. My shelf is approx 15' from where the screen will be. I'm hoping for an appox 100" screen. The shelf will be approx 16 inches from the ceiling. I'm guessing based on what I've read that this should fall within the parameters of this unit and that I won't need to do a ceiling mount either closer to the screen or extended lower from the ceiling. My biggest concern is the vertical shift that a projector or this projector allows for. New to projectors so sorry for the simple question...but does this sound like I'm in the ballpark? Thanks!!



You came very close to detailing out my current setup. My 8350 is on a shelf that is 15' from where I have the screen hanging. The shelf is probably 2-3' from the ceiling if I were to guess... Main difference is I am projecting 120" screen.


Anyway, I think you will be perfectly fine with this setup. The ONLY question I cant confirm off the top of my head is the min screen image you can project.. but I thikn 100" will work.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I also have a lens shift issue and i stated that several pages back and i feel like i have a pretty good ceiling mount and i know its not the mount cuz i have a very small level i can stick on it and the projector is level. I even took the yellow packing ring and cut it and shaped it and put it back thinking that would work and it doesnt. So i let it go until it gets out of wack and readjust.


----------



## newfmp3

Premier mounts are actually quite good. I have a few here from the infocus pj's we use at work. They were made by them too. Good solid mount. But I wouldn't pay 300 bucks for it.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *volleb91* /forum/post/19828780
> 
> 
> Currently remodeling our basement and I'm in the process of wiring and building shelf for this unit. My shelf is approx 15' from where the screen will be. I'm hoping for an appox 100" screen. The shelf will be approx 16 inches from the ceiling. I'm guessing based on what I've read that this should fall within the parameters of this unit and that I won't need to do a ceiling mount either closer to the screen or extended lower from the ceiling. My biggest concern is the vertical shift that a projector or this projector allows for. New to projectors so sorry for the simple question...but does this sound like I'm in the ballpark? Thanks!!



You should be fine. In trying to figure out where to position mine, I ended up at about 14-14.5 feet from the screen and I can throw just over 110". I'll be using a 106" or 110" screen so I'm not maxed out.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should be fine. In trying to figure out where to position mine, I ended up at about 14-14.5 feet from the screen and I can throw just over 110". I'll be using a 106" or 110" screen so I'm not maxed out.



I need to figure out if it brighter at 12.5' zoomed in to 110 or brighter at 16' zoomed out. PC's calculator says closer is better, I just hope they are accounting for the loss f lumens past half zoom


----------



## vladd

Yup. The closer it is to the screen, the brighter the picture.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19830263
> 
> 
> Premier mounts are actually quite good. I have a few here from the infocus pj's we use at work. They were made by them too. Good solid mount. But I wouldn't pay 300 bucks for it.



I can put that mount on a truss under a washing machine and during the spin cycle there is no vibration on the projector because of that mount....


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scruff2* /forum/post/19827166
> 
> 
> What mount do you use? I am interested.



click thumbnail below
 

I suppose 2 rugrats constantly jumping around upstairs doesn't help the lens shift. still that minimal of a vibration on the floor joists above should not cause the lens shift issue.


----------



## sas_aaron

hi all,


1. I read that some online stores does a inspection of 8350 before you make a purchase, may I know which websites does this?



2. How do I request for inspection with the online store??


----------



## fraisa

Here is some better pics of that Premier Mount Designed specifically for All epson Projectors....

Plate mounted to base with no ugly legs.

Front dials on upper base allow for adjustments

IN these Pics i have removed the 6 inch extension Rod to make it flush mount

Does anyone like those Mini Levels.... they come in handy let me tell ya...


----------



## vladd

Nice, but I haven't seen that mount for sale anywhere. It's not even close to the one shown on the Epson site for the 8350 (which according to them should be the ELPHB550, not the ELPHB800). Will that fit an 8350 and where can you purchase it? Even a google search does not bring up one that looks like that.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19831814
> 
> 
> Nice, but I haven't seen that mount for sale anywhere. It's not even close to the one shown on the Epson site for the 8350 (which according to them should be the ELPHB550, not the ELPHB800). Will that fit an 8350 and where can you purchase it? Even a google search does not bring up one that looks like that.



Thats the mount to the link above,

Like i said the Pic on the Epson site for the mount is an older version..

With regards to that fitting the 8350 ,

The case on the 8350 (Body Shell) is the same on all units...


----------



## vladd

What's the height of that mount?


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19832307
> 
> 
> What's the height of that mount?



THat mount is flush would guess 1.75-2.inches...

With the extension arm its 7.75- 8.inches


----------



## luebster

Chief makes a mount, the RPA168 , designed specifically to fit Epson PJs, including the 8350. A veteran of these threads, Mississippi Man, is an installer and DIY advocate and he uses this mount almost exclusively for Epsons.


It can be had for $136 shipped from some online retailers. I won't link to them out of respect to the forum sponsors, but find the price for yourself and try to negotiate a price match with one of the AVS sponsor retailers.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19828585
> 
> 
> I want what your smokin.......
> 
> 
> Most people on this site are Fence Sitters when it comes to Buying things
> 
> and They are mostly out for a deal and getting things as cheap as possible
> 
> and thats not my market at All nor do i want it to be...
> 
> 
> Personally if people are buying online they need to buy from this site,
> 
> AVS gives the best service for there products,
> 
> and they also have a really good promo running on the 8700.....
> 
> 
> 
> I will clearly state a point ,
> 
> Not one of my Epson Projectors have a lens shift problem,
> 
> Why i believe its Because of the Epson Pro 800 Mount....
> 
> 
> I do find the mount makes a difference...



Stop trying to spread FUD. The projector would not know the difference between fastened to a 2 x 4 or to a $1,000 mount. As long as either held the projector securely, there would be zero performance difference in the image.


Added

Now a good mount does make it easier to adjust the projector, but that does not mean that a cheaper mount will hurt your image.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19833064
> 
> 
> Stop trying to spread FUD. The projector would not know the difference between fastened to a 2 x 4 or to a $1,000 mount. As long as either held the projector securely, there would be zero performance difference in the image.
> 
> 
> Added
> 
> Now a good mount does make it easier to adjust the projector, but that does not mean that a cheaper mount will hurt your image.




Yes but....., there are a few big "IFs" involved.


Any Mount that uses a "Universal Joint type" connection is not nearly as easy or as consistently sturdy and secure as one that uses up to 6 points of secure adjustment.


What "hurts" is when someone tries hard to get a PJ plumb and level, get's it accomplished, then with only a small nudge when attaching Cables (...or detaching...) the whole thing gets out of whack and you have to start over. This can be made even worse when the amount of clearance is so small, you cannot effectively tighten the set-screws enough to ward off such.


Certainly people have tried from the start to offset cost by purchasing the least expensive mounting solution they could. But by a large percentage, many also have found those Mounts to be at best problematic choices. But having no other choice (cost -wise) they forge on...and you seldom see/hear much about the issues they face over time.


Those of us who must interact with many various PJs and mounting situations have, on the other hand, the knowledge that transcends merely making choices based on cost alone. We see what works "best"...not just "Ok" for the money spent.


For certain sure, I will always save where I can, and I've tried most of the mounts out there. The single point mounts are the least expensive, but by far the least desirable overall. Certain promotional Epson "Kits", PJs that come with a Mount included all use a mount like the one Fraisa posted images of. Locked down, tightened down, and installed correctly, they do a perfectly fine job....unless you have to do much of anything to the PJ afterward. I've seen those mounts lose positioning simply because someone needed to manually adjust Zoom/Len shift...and Brother....that is the Pits! Look at all those Thumb Wheel Knobs? They must be tightened down completely because they both hold the PJ Plate assembly to the "Bowl" you see, and they also have a little bit to do with putting / keeping the Yaw & Pitch in the position it (...the PJ...)requires. It's not a very precise or effective solution, but it's much better than most less expensive Mounts.


The Chief RPA Mount for the Epson line is dedicated...comes with a specifically stamped PJ plate that allows easy access to Bulb Chanages, and the Mount itself...why you can smack the PJ upside it's casing...hard, and if it's tightened down, it will not need any re-adjusting. This design really isn't intended to ward off the effects of such abuse, it's so that a Owner can, if so desired, quickly remove the Pj...then replace it, and know he's not going to have to spend a lot of time (...or any actually...) re-adjusting critical Yaw/Pitch/ Lateral parameters.


If you consider how much most Noobs hate to do such things, the price difference can be construed to be quite worth it.


For all others who absolutely must cinch the Money belt, yep, there are the less expensive choices. mjg100, your right as rain about one thing....once the PJ is mounted, and everything is as it should be, as long as nothing unfortunate happens, in the dark there is nothing that should matter as far as how much the thing costs...or didn't cost.


Personally speaking, I find good looks, functionality, and flexibility in mounting to all be important aspects of any installation, and you will not find all those attributes combined together in many of the sub-$100.00 mounting solutions. If you do though...be sure to post up!


----------



## mikbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19808499
> 
> 
> I haven't used any calibration discs other than the Contrast and Brightness tool that's on the wall-e BD, but here are my basic settings on 106" white 1.1g;
> 
> 
> cinema mode
> 
> brightness -9 (-10 post WOW calibration)
> 
> contrast +10 (+5 post WOW cal.)
> 
> saturation +1
> 
> 6500k
> 
> Iris normal
> 
> Gamma 2.4
> 
> hdmi mode Expanded
> 
> Superwhite off
> 
> 
> With this I AM able to "see the detail or outline of a black car with a black background and black hair detail" as you mentioned, while maintaining pretty good blacks. Like you, it bugs me to not see all of the image that was intended to be seen.
> 
> 
> Of course there are lots of variables, throw distance, ambient light, lens shift, player settings (such as superwhite on PS3 which is off with my settings) also have my Pixel Format set to YCbCr 4.4.4 in the ATI CCC on my HTPC. I seem to like my settings better than any other I've tried so far. I ordered the WOW disc so we'll see. Anyone care to try it and offer feedback?



These are very close to my settings after calibration (in Cinema mode). I have both the AVIA and Spears and Munsil disks. I like the Spears and Munsil disk for the contrast and brightness test patterns, they allow for a more detailed analysis of brightness and contrast than the AVIA disk does. With the spears and Munsil disk I had to back down contrast to 0 (from +2/3). The image was too bright and detail was being lost at the high end of white.


This is on a SI BlackDiamond .8 gain screen so that will impact this as well a bit.


Other than the contrast diff, your settings are very close to mine.


----------



## rgs

Just received my Epson 8350 - my third projector - and mounted it with the same mount I used for the other two. A simple, sturdy, flexible mount that can be made for a few dollars.

I cut two two two-foot lengths of steel skirting finishing pieces (they're "U" shaped with square edges and made to fit over the top of steel skirting to finish it off) and screwed them to the ceiling giving me a set of tracks. I then cut one piece of plywood to slide in the tracks and another piece to bolt to the projector holes. I drilled 4 matching holes in each to bold them together and another set of holes in the bottom piece to match the bolt holes in the projector. The two pieces of plywood are then bolted together with about two inches of space between them. I can then simply slide the upper piece of plywood with the projector attached into the tracks and move it back and forth to the best position. I can easily adjust the sideways tilt of the projector with a wrench to adjust the nuts between the two pieces of plywood.

I suspect many people on this list would not care for this solution but it does have several advantages.

1. No need to buy another mount when you replace your projector. Just drill new holes in the lower piece of plywood to match the new projector's holes or, at most, cut another piece of plywood to bolt the projector to.

2. Easy to move projector closer and farther from the screen to determine the best location.

3. Easy to mount the projector or take it down. No need to balance the projector while unbolting or rebolting it. Just detach the cables and slide the projector out of the tracks.

Of course, instead of plywood you can use finished boards for a more finished look.


I probably should have put this in the DIY mounts section, but since I just got a new Epson 8350 and there's a lot of talk of mounts here I thought I'd throw it in here and also thereby get notified of new posts in this section. And on another note, really impressed with the colour and brightness of this projector after an Infocus X1 and Benq W500.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19832718
> 
> 
> THat mount is flush would guess 1.75-2.inches...



Not a lot of clearance to make adjustments. I think it would also be to close to the ceiling for my needs since I have to drop below a beam. 7-8" would be too far a drop though since the ceiling is only 7'.


I also fail to see how it would help with the lens shift issue. My 8350 is so sensitive, it will shift if you breathe on the adjustment controls. Any vibration from the floor above will cause it to shift regardless of the mount used unless it has built in vibration dampeners. Note that I am talking about actual lens shift and not a shifting of the entire projector.


----------



## rgs

My ceiling is 7' too. The center of the lens is 6 1/2" below the ceiling. I haven't noticed a problem with lens shift but then I've only had the projector a short time.


----------



## idle jet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19831612
> 
> 
> Here is some better pics of that Premier Mount Designed specifically for All epson Projectors....
> 
> Plate mounted to base with no ugly legs.
> 
> Front dials on upper base allow for adjustments
> 
> IN these Pics i have removed the 6 inch extension Rod to make it flush mount
> 
> Does anyone like those Mini Levels.... they come in handy let me tell ya...



That is a very clean setup,

Where can i get one of those flush mounts ,

and those small levels must be very handy.


----------



## The Red

Hey guys, I'm having a problem with my 8350 that I was hoping someone else could help me with. It is the strangest thing ever.


When I open the www.netflix.com web page or surf around on their movie selection, my projector begins to flicker, throw up a wall that looks like a million colorful sprinkles mixed with television snow, and zoom into portions of the visible site in the middle of the flickers. There is a hardware whirring and internal lens motor noise as well.


It goes away the moment I leave the page, whether by playing the movie I'm looking over, or by simply going to another web page.


Happens in both firefox and chrome.


The problem can happen both the instant I turn to a netflix page, or 1 minuet after I begin browsing movies.



The only major hardware change I had was my graphics card through which netflix is obviously fed as a view my PC screen through the projector. I had an ATi 4870 that I used an HDMI cable with the special video card adapter to DVI that let audio pass through. I just switched to an ATi 6950, and am plugged directly HDMI to HDMI now, without the adapter.



The 8350 is my first projector, so I dont have a well developed mental catalog of projector troubleshooting yet, and any help would be greatly appreciated.. this problem is so infuriating.


----------



## vullcan

this happens to me too on certain webpages both in IE and firefox. It has to be some kind of programming (Flash?) thats causing it.


I thought it was because of my videocards HDMI out (Nvidia 480) But because you have it too with an ATI card... maybe it is the projector???


I have just been avoiding it by not going to certain webpages. It affects maybe 1-5% of the webpages I visit.


A good example is http://www.break.com/ The problem starts as soon as you scroll to the bottom of the page (near the very bottom)


----------



## The Red




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19834604
> 
> 
> this happens to me too on certain webpages both in IE and firefox. It has to be some kind of programming (Flash?) thats causing it.
> 
> 
> I thought it was because of my videocards HDMI out (Nvidia 480) But because you have it too with an ATI card... maybe it is the projector???
> 
> 
> I have just been avoiding it by not going to certain webpages. It affects maybe 1-5% of the webpages I visit.
> 
> 
> A good example is http://www.break.com/ The problem starts as soon as you scroll to the bottom of the page (near the very bottom)



OMG, you're right. At the bottom of that page it does the same thing for me. Netflix has this problem ony when I am inside of the main surfing window with the pictures of the list of movies. Not when I'm reading inside a single movie after I click in. I wonder what is wrong with their display list that is shared with your page.


But the thing is that with my old 4870, it did not do that. With the 6950 it does.


And I absolutely need to be able to surf Netflix on my browser, so it is affecting me greatly.


The strange part is that we both have video cards from two completely separate card makers.


Whats baffling is that the webpage actually affects the projector hardware and sets this all in motion.


I really, really hope someone has a solution.


----------



## newfmp3

My pj is here. Arrived this morning, late arriving (so much for next day air). It's 5 mins from my house right now in a shipping warehouse and I can not get it until Monday evening After work. It baffles me in this day and age of 24 hr services and the cost we pay for shipping that I still can not pick up a parcel on a Saturday.


----------



## rgs

Newfmp3, you're just a hop beyond me on Cape Breton. Fortunately, I had the option of sending mine to my business address on the mainline and I got it yesterday. It would have been several days more if I had chosen Cape Breton. Maddening, isn't it?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Newfmp3, you're just a hop beyond me on Cape Breton. Fortunately, I had the option of sending mine to my business address on the mainline and I got it yesterday. It would have been several days more if I had chosen Cape Breton. Maddening, isn't it?



Mine was sent to my office as well but did not show up in town unil 7:33 am sat. morning. I was at the warehouse last night and had a guy arranged to call me this morning, but he said he leaves at 8am. I guess he did not want to wait for me to get there.


Yeah, frustrating. Even more so when toys arrive on the first day of my work week when I could have had it yesterday.


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Red* /forum/post/19834685
> 
> 
> OMG, you're right. At the bottom of that page it does the same thing for me. Netflix has this problem ony when I am inside of the main surfing window with the pictures of the list of movies. Not when I'm reading inside a single movie after I click in. I wonder what is wrong with their display list that is shared with your page.
> 
> 
> But the thing is that with my old 4870, it did not do that. With the 6950 it does.
> 
> 
> And I absolutely need to be able to surf Netflix on my browser, so it is affecting me greatly.
> 
> 
> The strange part is that we both have video cards from two completely separate card makers.
> 
> 
> Whats baffling is that the webpage actually affects the projector hardware and sets this all in motion.
> 
> 
> I really, really hope someone has a solution.



Its also happening on the popular website http://www.hulu.com/ 


Can we get someone else who has their 8350 hooked up to a computer to browse to these sites too please?


It would be wonderful if we could get some insite on why this is happening. I called Epson but of course they were clueless as expected.


I'd imagine this problem is hard to narrow down and is a combination of website programming, video card / drivers and the projector hardware.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19833645
> 
> 
> Yes but....., there are a few big "IFs" involved.
> 
> 
> Any Mount that uses a "Universal Joint type" connection is not nearly as easy or as consistently sturdy and secure as one that uses up to 6 points of secure adjustment.
> 
> 
> What "hurts" is when someone tries hard to get a PJ plumb and level, get's it accomplished, then with only a small nudge when attaching Cables (...or detaching...) the whole thing gets out of whack and you have to start over. This can be made even worse when the amount of clearance is so small, you cannot effectively tighten the set-screws enough to ward off such.
> 
> 
> Certainly people have tried from the start to offset cost by purchasing the least expensive mounting solution they could. But by a large percentage, many also have found those Mounts to be at best problematic choices. But having no other choice (cost -wise) they forge on...and you seldom see/hear much about the issues they face over time.
> 
> 
> Those of us who must interact with many various PJs and mounting situations have, on the other hand, the knowledge that transcends merely making choices based on cost alone. We see what works "best"...not just "Ok" for the money spent.
> 
> 
> For certain sure, I will always save where I can, and I've tried most of the mounts out there. The single point mounts are the least expensive, but by far the least desirable overall. Certain promotional Epson "Kits", PJs that come with a Mount included all use a mount like the one Fraisa posted images of. Locked down, tightened down, and installed correctly, they do a perfectly fine job....unless you have to do much of anything to the PJ afterward. I've seen those mounts lose positioning simply because someone needed to manually adjust Zoom/Len shift...and Brother....that is the Pits! Look at all those Thumb Wheel Knobs? They must be tightened down completely because they both hold the PJ Plate assembly to the "Bowl" you see, and they also have a little bit to do with putting / keeping the Yaw & Pitch in the position it (...the PJ...)requires. It's not a very precise or effective solution, but it's much better than most less expensive Mounts.
> 
> 
> The Chief RPA Mount for the Epson line is dedicated...comes with a specifically stamped PJ plate that allows easy access to Bulb Chanages, and the Mount itself...why you can smack the PJ upside it's casing...hard, and if it's tightened down, it will not need any re-adjusting. This design really isn't intended to ward off the effects of such abuse, it's so that a Owner can, if so desired, quickly remove the Pj...then replace it, and know he's not going to have to spend a lot of time (...or any actually...) re-adjusting critical Yaw/Pitch/ Lateral parameters.
> 
> 
> If you consider how much most Noobs hate to do such things, the price difference can be construed to be quite worth it.
> 
> 
> For all others who absolutely must cinch the Money belt, yep, there are the less expensive choices. mjg100, your right as rain about one thing....once the PJ is mounted, and everything is as it should be, as long as nothing unfortunate happens, in the dark there is nothing that should matter as far as how much the thing costs...or didn't cost.
> 
> 
> Personally speaking, I find good looks, functionality, and flexibility in mounting to all be important aspects of any installation, and you will not find all those attributes combined together in many of the sub-$100.00 mounting solutions. If you do though...be sure to post up!



I agree with what you are saying and I even stated that a good mount makes it a lot easier to install.


I agree with what you are saying. A good mount makes for a far easier long term ownership. What I was disagreeing with was the statement that the cheaper mounts cause lens shift problems. I also agree that the mount pictured was not that much different from some of the cheaper mounts. In other words, you nudge it, you have to adjust it.


----------



## idle jet

Really looking at this projector...

But after reading the last few pages,

I am going to Make sure it gets a qc test ,

would rather be on the safe side....


----------



## The Red




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19834604
> 
> 
> this happens to me too on certain webpages both in IE and firefox. It has to be some kind of programming (Flash?) thats causing it.
> 
> 
> I thought it was because of my videocards HDMI out (Nvidia 480) But because you have it too with an ATI card... maybe it is the projector???
> 
> 
> I have just been avoiding it by not going to certain webpages. It affects maybe 1-5% of the webpages I visit.
> 
> 
> A good example is http://www.break.com/ The problem starts as soon as you scroll to the bottom of the page (near the very bottom)


_Hey man, I just solved our problem with the help of mgkdragn here 


The sequence in which you boot up seems to affect the projector. I was rebooting my PC with the projector on as my main screen and it apparently was the problem.


What I did was turn off projector, receiver, and PC. Turn on PC, then receiver, then projector, in that order... and it works perfect, and I tested it on your www.break.com site too, flawless.


Enjoy.
_
*EDIT:*


Ignore everything I said, that only fixed my problem temporarily. If I stayed on the page for 5 min, the problem came back and was instantaneous from that 5 min point on.


However, I did find a permanent solution. It seems that it IS the HDMI port interaction. I still have my DVI > HDMI adapter that came with my ATi 4870, I put that on to the 2nd DVI slot, took the cable out of the HDMI slot and put it into the DVI>HDMI adapter, the way I had it before I had an HDMI slot, and everything is back to perfect. The ATi adapter carries audio so I'm good.


This sucks though, not having a fully functioning HDMI port.


----------



## audvid

i have a faint vertical stripe overlay on the picture.. it appears and dissapears.. they are kind of diagonal lines actually.. all over the picture..

I am feeding from DVR to projector direct hdmi

this is a brand new projector..

i might be able to exchange it at best buy..

I just wanted to check in before I do so.. is this a known problem?

There are 51 pages on this thread.. sorry.. I didn't read the prior pages..

thanks..


----------



## redfox102

Hey guys, its been a while since I've been here. I just have a couple questions, I've had my 8350 for about a month and now im noticing this weird whirring noise coming from my projector, the weird thing is it doesn't seem to be coming from the fan itself, it almost sounds like something is loose moving around... Has anyone else noticed this? Honestly i really wouldn't care if it weren't right behind my head on a bookshelf. And i also have a question about the lamp, i know the old 8100 had lamp issues so i was wondering how many of you have had premature lamp failures? I just hit 100 hours a few days ago and i absolutely dread getting to 600 hours because on average that's about when lamps on 8100's failed. I mean the quality of Epsons projectors is phenomenal, if they would just fix the lamp issues they would be perfect... Thanks everyone.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19837120
> 
> 
> Hey guys, its been a while since I've been here. I just have a couple questions, I've had my 8350 for about a month and now im noticing this weird whirring noise coming from my projector, the weird thing is it doesn't seem to be coming from the fan itself, it almost sounds like something is loose moving around... Has anyone else noticed this? Honestly i really wouldn't care if it weren't right behind my head on a bookshelf. And i also have a question about the lamp, i know the old 8100 had lamp issues so i was wondering how many of you have had premature lamp failures? I just hit 100 hours a few days ago and i absolutely dread getting to 600 hours because on average that's about when lamps on 8100's failed. I mean the quality of Epsons projectors is phenomenal, if they would just fix the lamp issues they would be perfect... Thanks everyone.



I also have a comment on their 2 year lamp warranty... It sounds great but I've been thinking about it and it really pisses me off. So after 2 years Epson pretty much says "your on your own" when its their own product that is failing. Am i really the only one who thinks that's unfair? I mean that's $300 every 600 hours, and that's just crazy. Am i right about the 2 year warranty? Will Epson do nothing if you have a premature lamp failure in 2 years or am i missing something?


----------



## kbfern

Their policy is 1 free lamp replacement under warranty then you are on your own.


So if it fails at 600hrs or 50hrs or 1000hrs as long as it is within the warranty period they will replace it 1 time only FOC.


In the UK the warranty is 3yrs but we do pay a higher retail price for the pj,therefore our warranty is for 3yrs rather than the 2 yrs in the US.


----------



## audvid

regarding vertical lines, I put a white paper on the screen.. and the faint vertical lines are visible on the paper too..


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Red* /forum/post/19835603
> 
> 
> It seems that it IS the HDMI port interaction. I still have my DVI > HDMI adapter that came with my ATi 4870, I put that on to the 2nd DVI slot, took the cable out of the HDMI slot and put it into the DVI>HDMI adapter, the way I had it before I had an HDMI slot, and everything is back to perfect. The ATi adapter carries audio so I'm good.
> 
> 
> This sucks though, not having a fully functioning HDMI port.



I also had an interesting issue with my HTPC and HDMI. I upgraded to a 5770 (which has native HDMI) from a 4850 which only had DVI so I had to use an adapter.


After upgrading I lost the ability to see 23hz (23.976) as an option, which is judder free. With the 5770 only 24hz was selectable which has judder. After adding the DVI to HDMI adapter back into the equation on the 5770 I was able to see and select 23hz again.


HTPC's are awesome and fun, but a part time job!


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19837146
> 
> 
> I also have a comment on their 2 year lamp warranty... It sounds great but I've been thinking about it and it really pisses me off. So after 2 years Epson pretty much says "your on your own" when its their own product that is failing. Am i really the only one who thinks that's unfair? I mean that's $300 every 600 hours, and that's just crazy. Am i right about the 2 year warranty? Will Epson do nothing if you have a premature lamp failure in 2 years or am i missing something?



Then nearly every new product sold should piss you off, because 1 yr. warranty or less is the norm for most every thing sold.


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19837934
> 
> 
> I also had an interesting issue with my HTPC and HDMI. I upgraded to a 5770 (which has native HDMI) from a 4850 which only had DVI so I had to use an adapter.
> 
> 
> After upgrading I lost the ability to see 23hz (23.976) as an option, which is judder free. With the 5770 only 24hz was selectable which has judder. After adding the DVI to HDMI adapter back into the equation on the 5770 I was able to see and select 23hz again.
> 
> 
> HTPC's are awesome and fun, but a part time job!



I dont understand... 23 hz? I set mine to the highest (60hz) as it refreshes more times per second... The framerate is thus "smoother". Why would you put it that low?


Using a Nvidia GTX 480 mine goes down to 24 hz as well.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19839201
> 
> 
> I dont understand... 23 hz? I set mine to the highest (60hz) as it refreshes more times per second... The framerate is thus "smoother". Why would you put it that low?
> 
> 
> Using a Nvidia GTX 480 mine goes down to 24 hz as well.



Film material is a 24 frames per second. Playing it at 60hz results in frames being repeated at an uneven rate so it produces judder (slight glitches in the movie). Not everyone notices it but for those that do, it's really annoying.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Red* /forum/post/19834685
> 
> 
> OMG, you're right. At the bottom of that page it does the same thing for me. Netflix has this problem ony when I am inside of the main surfing window with the pictures of the list of movies. Not when I'm reading inside a single movie after I click in. I wonder what is wrong with their display list that is shared with your page.
> 
> 
> But the thing is that with my old 4870, it did not do that. With the 6950 it does.
> 
> 
> And I absolutely need to be able to surf Netflix on my browser, so it is affecting me greatly.
> 
> 
> The strange part is that we both have video cards from two completely separate card makers.
> 
> 
> Whats baffling is that the webpage actually affects the projector hardware and sets this all in motion.
> 
> 
> I really, really hope someone has a solution.




It's not just webpages - I see the same with a certain application. The funny thing is that it only started last night when I changed the AV receiver I was using. With my Yamaha, all was well, but it's a less capable receiver than my 9.2 Onkyo. I fired that up with the 8350 yesterday, all excited, but it was one problem after as if the projector was getting constantly changing refresh rates.

I think I have a workaround, which I'll try to implement tonight. It should work in theory. Mine's an unusual system, so if it works I'll try to post what I did in general terms as well as in my specific situation. It's most odd...


----------



## The Red




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/19839903
> 
> 
> It's not just webpages - I see the same with a certain application. The funny thing is that it only started last night when I changed the AV receiver I was using. With my Yamaha, all was well, but it's a less capable receiver than my 9.2 Onkyo. I fired that up with the 8350 yesterday, all excited, but it was one problem after as if the projector was getting constantly changing refresh rates.
> 
> I think I have a workaround, which I'll try to implement tonight. It should work in theory. Mine's an unusual system, so if it works I'll try to post what I did in general terms as well as in my specific situation. It's most odd...



Thats interesting, I also use an Onkyo. Its part of one of their 7.1 packages. The HT-S5300 


I wonder what the others are using.


----------



## vullcan

I am having the problem and I am using a YAMAHA RX-A700


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19839201
> 
> 
> I dont understand... 23 hz? I set mine to the highest (60hz) as it refreshes more times per second... The framerate is thus "smoother". Why would you put it that low?
> 
> 
> Using a Nvidia GTX 480 mine goes down to 24 hz as well.



One easy way to see the difference between 24hz and 60hz is to watch the credits roll at the end of a movie. 24hz is perfectly smooth, 60hz looks fuzzy or blurred.


If you have 23hz as an option you should chose that, for it represents 23.976 which is the actual frame rate of film. 24hz may give an occasional judder. If you don't see this option you may need to force the settings in the nvidia control panel.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikbro* /forum/post/19833953
> 
> 
> These are very close to my settings after calibration (in Cinema mode). I have both the AVIA and Spears and Munsil disks. I like the Spears and Munsil disk for the contrast and brightness test patterns, they allow for a more detailed analysis of brightness and contrast than the AVIA disk does. With the spears and Munsil disk I had to back down contrast to 0 (from +2/3). The image was too bright and detail was being lost at the high end of white.
> 
> 
> This is on a SI BlackDiamond .8 gain screen so that will impact this as well a bit.
> 
> 
> Other than the contrast diff, your settings are very close to mine.



So you have HDMI set to expanded as well? I could be wrong, but to me I do find that calibrating using expanded HDMI as a starting point gives a better picture in the end.


Side note, I would love to see what this pj can do on a BD screen!


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19838010
> 
> 
> Then nearly every new product sold should piss you off, because 1 yr. warranty or less is the norm for most every thing sold.



This is different, i know my lamp will not last 4000 hours like epson says, and i really shouldn't have to buy a new lamp when mine prematurely goes out when epson should just fix the problem entirely, It's like they aren't even trying. And is it true you only get one lamp under warranty? Ive heard of 8100 owners getting more than that.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19842539
> 
> 
> If you have 23hz as an option you should chose that, for it represents 23.976 which is the actual frame rate of film. 24hz may give an occasional judder. If you don't see this option you may need to force the settings in the nvidia control panel.



AFAIK, Nvidia 24hz = 23.976hz.


ATI's are different, 24hz = 24hz and 23hz = 23.976hz.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audvid* /forum/post/19836731
> 
> 
> i have a faint vertical stripe overlay on the picture.. it appears and dissapears.. they are kind of diagonal lines actually.. all over the picture..
> 
> I am feeding from DVR to projector direct hdmi
> 
> this is a brand new projector..
> 
> i might be able to exchange it at best buy..
> 
> I just wanted to check in before I do so.. is this a known problem?
> 
> There are 51 pages on this thread.. sorry.. I didn't read the prior pages..
> 
> thanks..



1. Have tried using a different source such as a DVD/blu-ray player?

2. Swapped out the HDMI cable?

3. Tried the other HDMI input on the projector?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19842984
> 
> 
> This is different, i know my lamp will not last 4000 hours like epson says, and i really shouldn't have to buy a new lamp when mine prematurely goes out when epson should just fix the problem entirely, It's like they aren't even trying. And is it true you only get one lamp under warranty? Ive heard of 8100 owners getting more than that.



I share your concern. Lets say first lamp last 800 hrs, then the next 600 hrs. Your still nowhere near the advertised 4000.


I never had this issue with my infocus. Heck after 5 years I'm still on the same bulb.


----------



## darealgerk

Re: 24Hz vs. 23.976Hz


You should always try to match (when possible) the original framerate of the material for best results. If the material was NTSC based it will most likely be 23.976hz ... from a BR disc more often (but not always) true 24Hz. If you're recording HD broadcast stuff on the DVR I'd suspect that it's more like 60i material as a source which would then end up being converted down to 23.976Hz. Mismatching framerates (and ending in the resulting conversions/pulldowns and other nastiness) is a HUGE cause of IQ issues.


I can't comment on the specifics of Nvidia vs ATI on these but in general what I mention above is worth taking into consideration. Converting 60i into 23.976Hz is not what I would choose to do on any video output device personally ... but maybe that's just the purist (and video editor!) in me talking. Some people like enforcing the "film look."


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19842539
> 
> 
> One easy way to see the difference between 24hz and 60hz is to watch the credits roll at the end of a movie. 24hz is perfectly smooth, 60hz looks fuzzy or blurred.
> 
> 
> If you have 23hz as an option you should chose that, for it represents 23.976 which is the actual frame rate of film. 24hz may give an occasional judder. If you don't see this option you may need to force the settings in the nvidia control panel.



That's not necessarily correct information. See my previous post and read up a bit on the differences between 24Hz and 23.976Hz. Some films will be true 24Hz some may be 23.976Hz. The only reason 23.976 exists is because of NTSC. In the 30fps world that's called "drop frame" ... not sure that nomenclature applies to the world of 24p or not though. It all depends on the actual source material, what it was shot on, how it was edited, how it was converted for transfer to BR or broadcast, etc etc.


You should only see "fuzzy" or "blurred" stuff in the credits if you're forcing conversions (or if the actual transfer to the format it was presented in was that bad!) In a native format (i.e. 24Hz, 23.976Hz or 60Hz) you shouldn't see any of this in a perfect world.


----------



## Brannen Betz

I purchased an Epson 8350 last weekend. I hooked it up and it ran great the first day. Last night I went to watch a Blue Ray DVD, turned on the blue ray and projector, ran upstairs to clean something my dog knocked over and time got away from me. After about an hour I came back downstairs. The projector screen was off, I assuming it "timed out". When I turned it back on I started to play the dvd. Basically everything was shaded blue. Even the lips of the actors were blue colored. I tried to switch to different Image types, i.e. cinema, dynamic...et.c and nothing mattered. Even when I turned off the blue ray and went back to hd tv, everything was still heavily blue based. I cannot figure out what to do. My only thoguht is maybe the blue ray player, since the dvd was turned on but the a dvd hadn't been loaded into it, was projecting a blue screen for an hour and it burned it into the bulb? Kind of like a plasma tv, doesn't make sense but it is all I can think of. Any ideas?????


----------



## jays_on

Quote:

Originally Posted by *darealgerk* 
That's not necessarily correct information. See my previous post and read up a bit on the differences between 24Hz and 23.976Hz. Some films will be true 24Hz some may be 23.976Hz. The only reason 23.976 exists is because of NTSC. In the 30fps world that's called "drop frame" ... not sure that nomenclature applies to the world of 24p or not though. It all depends on the actual source material, what it was shot on, how it was edited, how it was converted for transfer to BR or broadcast, etc etc.


You should only see "fuzzy" or "blurred" stuff in the credits if you're forcing conversions (or if the actual transfer to the format it was presented in was that bad!) In a native format (i.e. 24Hz, 23.976Hz or 60Hz) you shouldn't see any of this in a perfect world.
Ya I should have clarified, I just assumed it was obvious. I was suggesting using 23p/24p with source material such as BD. Every BD MOVIE released that I have seen utilizes this framrate as this is how they were filmed.


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brannen Betz* 
I purchased an Epson 8350 last weekend. I hooked it up and it ran great the first day. Last night I went to watch a Blue Ray DVD, turned on the blue ray and projector, ran upstairs to clean something my dog knocked over and time got away from me. After about an hour I came back downstairs. The projector screen was off, I assuming it "timed out". When I turned it back on I started to play the dvd. Basically everything was shaded blue. Even the lips of the actors were blue colored. I tried to switch to different Image types, i.e. cinema, dynamic...et.c and nothing mattered. Even when I turned off the blue ray and went back to hd tv, everything was still heavily blue based. I cannot figure out what to do. My only thoguht is maybe the blue ray player, since the dvd was turned on but the a dvd hadn't been loaded into it, was projecting a blue screen for an hour and it burned it into the bulb? Kind of like a plasma tv, doesn't make sense but it is all I can think of. Any ideas?????
Are you running through an AV receiver? Did you try restarting that, or all of the components in the chain one at a time?


----------



## vullcan

Man now you guys have me examining the credits of a few blurays and yes I do see the judder / blurriness at 60hz output.


The thing is though I never noticed it before during an actual film and it renders the computer useless until you switch it back to 60hz for anything other than watching a movie (even moving the mouse in windows was laggy with it only updating at 24hz) so I think I will just live with it as I have been!


Hopefully windows will be smart enough one day to output video in its native specifications and this will not even be an issue.


----------



## la9ers

can someone guide to fine the lowest possible price for this projector.


thanks.


----------



## EJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19846964
> 
> 
> Man now you guys have me examining the credits of a few blurays and yes I do see the judder / blurriness at 60hz output.
> 
> 
> The thing is though I never noticed it before during an actual film and it renders the computer useless until you switch it back to 60hz for anything other than watching a movie (even moving the mouse in windows was laggy with it only updating at 24hz) so I think I will just live with it as I have been!
> 
> 
> Hopefully windows will be smart enough one day to output video in its native specifications and this will not even be an issue.



You could use a multiple of 24, try 72Hz.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19846964
> 
> 
> Man now you guys have me examining the credits of a few blurays and yes I do see the judder / blurriness at 60hz output.



Sorry dude.










Judder is one of those things where once you see it, you can never un-see it and it drives you nuts from then on.


----------



## suade907

Just got my new 8350 and tried it out for the first time. Shining it on a bare flat off white wall. Looks pretty darn good, much better than my old sanyo z3. Living room mode in economy seems best for my family. Cinema is slightly dark, I think I would need a screen with some sort of gain to get the most out of that. But it's not in the cards. I have a small house and this is in the family room so the wife won't let it happen.


I know everyone has different set ups but if anyone has a calibrated setup on a bare wall can you post some specs. Also what hd calibration discs are popular these days. I have a old DVD essentials DVD haven't tried it yet though.


----------



## gtscottm

I just purchased this projector and the picture seems great, we have enjoyed a couple of movies so far. I do have a couple of questions though.


1. I was pretty disappointed by the auto-iris feature, it seems VERY slow even in high speed mode. When the lighting quickly changes from a very bright scene to a very dark scene, it takes the iris about 8 seconds in high speed mode to fully darken the displayed image. Normal mode takes about 18 seconds. Is this what should be expected?


2. When the screen is "black" I notice a purplish cast to the entire image (looks uniform to me, and I've actually almost gotten used to it). I also can see a slight convergence issue when looking at the screen within about 5 feet or so with white text on black (mostly purple glowing around the text with a slight green). Could a convergence issue cause a purplish cast on dark screens?


Thanks


----------



## EJ

Can 8350 do a 4:4 pulldown, or is that limited to the 8700?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19847923
> 
> 
> Can 8350 do a 4:4 pulldown, or is that limited to the 8700?



2:2 for 24hz input


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19841595
> 
> 
> I am having the problem and I am using a YAMAHA RX-A700



So after much frustration during testing, I've got a solution working for me - almost, I think.

*Recap*

My problem of the 8350 not being able to lock down on an input signal (from an HTPC on certain webpages or applications), and then cycling through all its available resolutions aspect ratios, iris settings etc. is defintely an HDMI/receiver issue. As a recap, the image is stable for maybe a few seconds and then breaks up all over the place as described, sometimes to the point that the projector gives up, and sometimes to a flickering semblance of what's meant to be shown.

If I connect directly via HDMI or DVI-HDMI adaptor, no problem. If I connect via my Yamaha 663 receiver, no problem. The only issue seems to arise if I use the Onkyo 5007 receiver with HDMI. I want to do this since my theatre has 16 speakers in an 11.2 configuration and I need the Onkyo to power it satifactorily.

*My Setup:
*HTPC running an ATi 5450 to an AV receiver. HDMI signal out from the receiver enters an HDMI splitter and is sent to a 23" touch screen hung within the wall, and also to the projector. This gives me touchscreen control over what's being played, choice of music etc., and means I can use the HTPC in the basement for whatever, without needing the projector to come on.

*The problem compounded:
*All this worked fine through my Yamaha 663 receiver. As soon as I switched receivers things got screwed up. Fortunately I have a VGA connection to the in-wall touch screen, so I thought I could use that, and see if I could get my system working.

I could send a VGA signal to the touchscreen and an HDMI connection direct to the AV receiver, bypassing the splitter. IIRC this resulted in the same problem.

Next I tried using the DVI connection to the projector and HDMI to the touchscreen via the AV receiver. This was great, except if I wanted to duplicate the screens; attempting to do so resulted in losing 7.1 sound, and the HMDI output from the video card showing only stereo as an option.

*The temporary solution:
*Finally the only thing that's worked so far is to connect the videocard's DVI to the HDMI splitter using a DVI to HDMI cable. Then, the projector and touchscreen are both fed through the splitter. Next, the video card's HDMI connector goes to the AV Receiver and no monitor is connected to the AV receiver's output. The only thing is that now the AV receiver needs to come on last and be "discovered" by Windows 7. When I did this, everything worked well. I am thinking that a Gefen HDMI detective, or Monoprices DVI doctor may fix these issues permanently, but I'll have to figure that out in the days/weeks to come. I'm going to the basement now to test some more...


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtscottm* /forum/post/19847914
> 
> 
> I just purchased this projector and the picture seems great, we have enjoyed a couple of movies so far. I do have a couple of questions though.
> 
> 
> 1. I was pretty disappointed by the auto-iris feature, it seems VERY slow even in high speed mode. When the lighting quickly changes from a very bright scene to a very dark scene, it takes the iris about 8 seconds in high speed mode to fully darken the displayed image. Normal mode takes about 18 seconds. Is this what should be expected?
> 
> 
> 2. When the screen is "black" I notice a purplish cast to the entire image (looks uniform to me, and I've actually almost gotten used to it). I also can see a slight convergence issue when looking at the screen within about 5 feet or so with white text on black (mostly purple glowing around the text with a slight green). *Could a convergence issue cause a purplish cast on dark screens?*
> 
> 
> Thanks



Thats a good question. Im having issues with either my projector or my screen. I have a purplish tint on my walls and green tint on my tile floor.


My screen is the bd2, im not sure if its the screen or the projector..


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19846964
> 
> 
> Man now you guys have me examining the credits of a few blurays and yes I do see the judder / blurriness at 60hz output.
> 
> 
> The thing is though I never noticed it before during an actual film and it renders the computer useless until you switch it back to 60hz for anything other than watching a movie (even moving the mouse in windows was laggy with it only updating at 24hz) so I think I will just live with it as I have been!
> 
> 
> Hopefully windows will be smart enough one day to output video in its native specifications and this will not even be an issue.



I think its worth taking the time to switch it prior to watching a movie. Especially now that your eyes have been tainted!







Most people wouldn't notice but to me it greatly improves the quality of the video, not just the credits!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19847382
> 
> 
> You could use a multiple of 24, try 72Hz.



Manual says 60hz max over HDMI.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtscottm* /forum/post/19847914
> 
> 
> 1. I was pretty disappointed by the auto-iris feature, it seems VERY slow even in high speed mode. When the lighting quickly changes from a very bright scene to a very dark scene, it takes the iris about 8 seconds in high speed mode to fully darken the displayed image. Normal mode takes about 18 seconds. Is this what should be expected?



You may have an issue, My iris is extremely fast, especially in high speed. It's pretty much instantaneous.


----------



## ashepp

Hi Folks,

I'm replacing a Panasonic LT-500U with an Epson 8350 that should arrive in a couple of days. My existing bracket is as shown :
https://skitch.com/ashepp/rj54e/photo-1 
https://skitch.com/ashepp/rj54j/photo-2 


From looking at the manual online this bracket isn't likely to fit the Epson and I'm trying to come up with a solution to mount before the projector turns up. Does anyone have a recommendation (preferably on a readily available Bestbuy / Costco? Seattle Area) mount or hack to my existing one?


Much appreciated

Adam.


----------



## ashepp

FYI - I think the bracket (which is nicely flush to the ceiling) is a

Chief RPA SLB 225?
http://www.focusedtechnology.com/chief-mounts.html 


Any recommendations on modifications or where to get a plate that will work with the Epson 8350 (ideally local to Seattle area) much appreciated.

Adam.


----------



## vladd

Depending on the dimensions of the SLB225, you may be able to drill holes to match up with the 8350s mount points. Or you may be able to order the proper plate (SLB168 or SLBU*): http://www.chiefmfg.com/mount_search...roductTypeID=2 


Not local options I know but...


* denotes color options available.


----------



## newfmp3

mine is finally here....but I can't play with it until about 12 hours from now...darn job


man it's big. I knew it was big, but man....coming from a 4805....dang she's large


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrios* /forum/post/19848057
> 
> 
> Thats a good question. Im having issues with either my projector or my screen. I have a purplish tint on my walls and green tint on my tile floor.
> 
> 
> My screen is the bd2, im not sure if its the screen or the projector..



Take a white peice of paper about a foot away from the projector and move it around the entire light projection and see if the tint exists on it.

This will isolate the issue to the projector or screen.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19844307
> 
> 
> I share your concern. Lets say first lamp last 800 hrs, then the next 600 hrs. Your still nowhere near the advertised 4000.
> 
> 
> I never had this issue with my infocus. Heck after 5 years I'm still on the same bulb.



Finally someone that understands! No one else seems to care about epsons false advertising but you and i. I think I'm going to make a call to epson and ask for details on that 2 year bulb warranty, and I'm gonna be pissed if they say i can only get one. Oh and here are some pictures of my finished "mini" theater, when i say "mini" i mean the room was just big enough for a queen size bed, if nothing else i think i have a unique theater.









I just have the projector on top of an old media cabinet, i have my laptop, sound system (which sucks lol) and ps3 on the bottom.









This shot was taken in dynamic mode with all the lights on, the sound isn't the best but it will do until i get the money for a decent system. I think i have the smallest theater of anyone here, like i said, it's unique









EDIT: OK! After like 10 edits i think i got the pictures right







!


----------



## hordeall

Im new to projectors but doing some research this seems like the model I would buy for my price range.


I have never owned a projector before so if someone could help me out with some questions:


How does the image from the projector compare to some of the top of the line newer plasmas/led tvs?


And what color and size screen should I buy?


It would go in my basement which has no windows/beige walls/white ceiling/10ft ceiling/and couch would be 10-12 feet from the screen


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hordeall* /forum/post/19850136
> 
> 
> Im new to projectors but doing some research this seems like the model I would buy for my price range.
> 
> 
> I have never owned a projector before so if someone could help me out with some questions:
> 
> 
> How does the image from the projector compare to some of the top of the line newer plasmas/led tvs?
> 
> 
> And what color and size screen should I buy?
> 
> 
> It would go in my basement which has no windows/beige walls/white ceiling/10ft ceiling/and couch would be 10-12 feet from the screen



Man i envy you, i wish i had a basement to put mine in :\\ Anyway i think my decision to go with the epson 8350 over a 42" sony bravia 3d tv was the best choice ive ever made, I've never really felt like i was in the movie until i turned this thing on. Everything about the picture is better than a tv with one exception, contrast. But the contrast is still better than my 42" panasonic with 30,000:1 contrast. Also take a good look at the pictures i posted above, i don't have a screen and I'm totally satisfied with the quality, just make sure to sand the wall you will be using before painting. And i guess light won't be an issue for you since you have a basement. You want my opinion? Go for it, you seem to have the perfect space for a projector.


----------



## newfmp3

I was home long enough for dinner to turn it on for 5 mins. I had it sitting in my office all morning so it was normal temp. Darn thing is bright. Bright enough on Dynamic that I am glad I am replacing my screen. I found my m2500 was hot spotting with Dynamic mode, but to be fair, I had the PJ fairly close on a table, way closer then it would normally be. Mount is not here yet. I swear the postal gods hate me.


I didn't have it on long enough to get an opinion of it. I don't think its fair to say anything about it until I sit down with it for some time.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19850014
> 
> 
> Finally someone that understands! No one else seems to care about epsons false advertising but you and i. I think I'm going to make a call to epson and ask for details on that 2 year bulb warranty, and I'm gonna be pissed if they say i can only get one. Oh and here are some pictures of my finished "mini" theater, when i say "mini" i mean the room was just big enough for a queen size bed, if nothing else i think i have a unique theater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just have the projector on top of an old media cabinet, i have my laptop, sound system (which sucks lol) and ps3 on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot was taken in dynamic mode with all the lights on, the sound isn't the best but it will do until i get the money for a decent system. I think i have the smallest theater of anyone here, like i said, it's unique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: OK! After like 10 edits i think i got the pictures right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !





with your projector that low, your a good candidate for the Dalite high power screen. I have one on the way as well. I will let you know if it's too bright though.


----------



## rgs

This is one amazing projector. Incredibly bright and beautiful rich colours. When I talked to Quebec Acoustic before getting it they asked me what size screen I'd be using. I'm projecting a 90" diagonal picture on a wall painted with Goo Systems Digital Gray paint. That's the largest picture I can do. They said it will look like a plasma TV and it does! On my earlier two projectors, whenever I happened to turn my TV on to display the same thing my projector was running, the projector display would look grayed out and flat because the TV glowed so brightly. The other night I happened to turn my 42" LCD TV on while using the projector and the TV looked grayed out and flat compared with the projector. The wall just glows and that's in Cinema mode. I couldn't be more pleased with this projector.


----------



## detroit1

using cinema mode and after using Iris and adjusting gamma, this projector has a Tremendous picture quality; for even more black; you can use super white but I think the colors are less vivid that way; in any case; after adjusting, the projector looks great


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19850937
> 
> 
> with your projector that low, your a good candidate for the Dalite high power screen. I have one on the way as well. I will let you know if it's too bright though.



I don't know what your talking about... It's at head level (does that qualify as "low"?) and i have a small couch, I don't need a screen, I'm extremely satisfied with 3 coats of matte white. Maybe you weren't meaning to reply to me.


----------



## lakersin2025

My 8350 arrives tomorrow and I am trying to figure out the cabling so I can order an HDMI cable for it. Do you guys think I will have a problem with a 45' HDMI cable using a switcher with my PS3, xbox, and cable all hooked up to it? I can run the cable all around the room corners for 45' or I can run it up the middle of the wall and across the middle of the ceiling for 35' but my walls are white. The "wife" factor wants the 45' option. Do you guys think I would have sync or picture problems?


Thanks!


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19852675
> 
> 
> My 8350 arrives tomorrow and I am trying to figure out the cabling so I can order an HDMI cable for it. Do you guys think I will have a problem with a 45' HDMI cable using a switcher with my PS3, xbox, and cable all hooked up to it? I can run the cable all around the room corners for 45' or I can run it up the middle of the wall and across the middle of the ceiling for 35' but my walls are white. The "wife" factor wants the 45' option. Do you guys think I would have sync or picture problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



45' is pretty long. If you have a switch that has a repeater built in you might be okay.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19852675
> 
> 
> My 8350 arrives tomorrow and I am trying to figure out the cabling so I can order an HDMI cable for it. Do you guys think I will have a problem with a 45' HDMI cable using a switcher with my PS3, xbox, and cable all hooked up to it? I can run the cable all around the room corners for 45' or I can run it up the middle of the wall and across the middle of the ceiling for 35' but my walls are white. The "wife" factor wants the 45' option. Do you guys think I would have sync or picture problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I am running a 35' HDMI cable with no problems. are you going through an AV receiver? most of them have HDMI ports for switching. I also have a madcatz switch/cooler that I am no longer using since getting . my AV unit but that would handle 3 HDMI and optical inputs 45 should not pose a problem as long as u get a quality cable


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/19852866
> 
> 
> I am running a 35' HDMI cable with no problems. are you going through an AV receiver? most of them have HDMI ports for switching. I also have a madcatz switch/cooler that I am no longer using since getting . my AV unit but that would handle 3 HDMI and optical inputs 45 should not pose a problem as long as u get a quality cable



It's a Monoprice switcher mdx-301 I think. No AV receiver just a Sony HTiB with no HDMI port.


----------



## ashepp

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the excellent advice so far on mounting options, etc.

My projector should arrive tomorrow and I'm hoping to setup and tune the system myself. I've been looking for a thread or details of how to optimally setup and was wondering if anyone had any advice or pointers?


Thanks

Adam.


p.s. I'll be connecting to an Onkyo TX-SR608


----------



## newfmp3

I am running 40' from mono price with no repeater, although I bought one from mono price just in case. No issues from ps3. I also have a 35' from infinite cables from ps3 and 360, pc etc into plasma, no issues.


As for the pj itself, so far so good. Man it's bright, wow. I do have a high power screen coming to, so I think I will be using cinema mode mostly.Maybe living room with lights on.


The iris is slow, not that impressed with it so far.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know what your talking about... It's at head level (does that qualify as "low"?) and i have a small couch, I don't need a screen, I'm extremely satisfied with 3 coats of matte white. Maybe you weren't meaning to reply to me.



High power screen is a screen from da-lite. It creates quite a powerful gain, but has a very specific requirement. It needs to be as close to eye level as possible, otherwise the increase in gain is minimal. If your pj is close to your eye level while viewing, that makes your setup a great candidate for the hp material. See the screens section and hp thread for more info.


This is bright pj though, so most people would probably never want more brightness. You should get a screen though, makes a huge difference. Get some samples.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/19847129
> 
> 
> can someone guide to fine the lowest possible price for this projector.
> 
> 
> thanks.



You gotta look around...seems the average is around 1200...some codes may get it down a little more if you can find any...


----------



## MississippiMan

.....can one expect everything to be as they feel it should be.


That must be some Extrasolar Planet as of yet discovered because the Projector Business takes care of it's own....profits that is.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19837146
> 
> 
> I also have a comment on their 2 year lamp warranty... It sounds great but I've been thinking about it and it really pisses me off. So after 2 years Epson pretty much says "your on your own" when its their own product that is failing. Am i really the only one who thinks that's unfair? I mean that's $300 every 600 hours, and that's just crazy. Am i right about the 2 year warranty? Will Epson do nothing if you have a premature lamp failure in 2 years or am i missing something?



Yes. Any degree of understanding or awareness of what is normal in Projector circles. Virtually *NO* Mfgs of Projectors at *ANY* price point has *EVER* offered *ANY* warranty on Bulb beyond 500 hrs or 90 Days WCF***. Most offer only 500 Hrs or 30 Days WCF. 500 hours has been the magical number since I started up with PJs 12 yrs ago.


The issue of Premature Bulb failure, whether via Mfg Defect or external causes that occur beyond that plateau has always been the weakest link in the chain that pulls in prospective Owners. You'll never see any PJ Mfg claim that a Bulb is "Guaranteed" to last...say it Full Lamp or Econo Mode listed Hours. It's always an "Estimate". Always. RedFox102, you must have missed that.....










There exists a Market for "Extended Bulb Warranties" for PJs and RPTVs to address that failing...and most of THOSE Warranties only specify at most 2 replacement Bulbs over a 3 year period. Ya gotta send 'em your bad'un first though before they reciprocate. Those Warranties can cost between $150 to 299.00 and they cover the period AFTER the 30-90 day limits set by the Mfg.


You have to realize no PJ Mfg "makes" their Bulbs....so they too must face / accept that a percentage of premature failures or DOAs will happen. But seeing as the item in question *IS* a Light Bulb, and subject to many causes of failure that the PJ Mfg or the Bulb Mfg cannot control, they ARE going to limit their liability...and do so with as little jeopardy as they can.


Back in the days (1998-2004) when a Good PJ cost $10k, and a Bulb $499.00+ Bulb Warranties were a pretty good deal.


It's true that some other Models have had similar issues over the bad Bulbs though...and it doesn't lend itself to building any degree of confidence out of the starting gate for new Customers.

***Whichever comes first



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19838010
> 
> 
> Then nearly every new product sold should piss you off, because 1 yr. warranty or less is the norm for most every thing sold.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19842984
> 
> 
> This is different, i know my lamp will not last 4000 hours like epson says, and i really shouldn't have to buy a new lamp when mine prematurely goes out when epson should just fix the problem entirely, It's like they aren't even trying. And is it true you only get one lamp under warranty? Ive heard of 8100 owners getting more than that.*****



Now your being presumptive, demanding, and unreasonable....and guilty of not knowing all the facts. A typical Customer indeed!!!

JKA....most of us fall into that category at one time or another....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19844307
> 
> 
> I share your concern. Lets say first lamp last 800 hrs, then the next 600 hrs. Your still nowhere near the advertised 4000.
> 
> 
> I never had this issue with my infocus. Heck after 5 years I'm still on the same bulb.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/19850014
> 
> 
> Finally someone that understands! No one else seems to care about epsons false advertising but you and i. I think I'm going to make a call to epson and ask for details on that 2 year bulb warranty, and I'm gonna be pissed if they say i can only get one.



Better get those Depends on Bub....or the water's gonna hit the Floor!










The only reason the 8350 has the replacement option going for it now that it does is because it's a Model-Wide affair for all the new models.

(2009 or older models do NOT apply....) A bogus Chinese Mfg produced some poor quality Bulbs....right when Epson was breaking out the 2010 line up.


Now the Bulbs are coming from Japan, however between the prior issues needing to be resolved, and a degree of wary uncertainty as far as not knowing how long the new Mfg's offerings will hold up, Epson did the unheard of. Offered to replace any Bulb that fails during the length of the Original "Projector's Warranty" I have heard nothing to suggest this offer is entirely open ended during that period...it's unusual circumstance anyway.


And be certain that a decision will be made by Spring as to how effective the newer Bulbs are based on the number of needed replacements, and if it's possible...the Warranty will eventually be rescinded after a given date...for all subsequent new Purchasers.


Lower Bulb prices, and just maybe a Industry-wide sift in marketing might bring us more "Extra Bulb Included" promos, but as for any Bulb Warranty such as the Epsons enjoy at present, you had better enjoy it also.....it's as rare as finding a Diamond in a Pig Sty.

*Post note on above****[/quote]Epson 8100s had two defined issues that led to many Bulb Failures.....Heat & Power Supply fluctuations. A higher than normal number of users had failures, and more that a couple had 2-3 before Epson solved the problem....mostly. For the worst case people, those who got a Replacement that almost immediately failed again...yeah, they got another. But all that was also rare...perhaps 2-3 individuals on this Forum had multiple failures. certainly not enough to base a Ralph Nader-like vendetta upon.


















> Quote:
> Oh and here are some pictures of my finished "mini" theater, when i say "mini" i mean the room was just big enough for a queen size bed, if nothing else i think i have a unique theater.



That's what I call a "Pocket Home Theater" in my business. Usually derived from a spare 10' x 12' Crackerbox Bedroom, I also call them "Virtual Reality Immersion Chambers" because a Big clear image and the right Sound can engage a person like nothing else ever has. Gamers are big fans of these type set-ups, though the advent of the Wii has affected that a bit. You gotta have the some room to go Wii Wii in.











> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot was taken in dynamic mode with all the lights on, the sound isn't the best but it will do until i get the money for a decent system. I think i have the smallest theater of anyone here, like i said, it's unique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: OK! After like 10 edits i think i got the pictures right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



What does the room measure? Screen size? You might be surprised.


As the Shot...well in Dynamic mode it should be much better resolved. Living Room Mode is a much better choice. I'm sure more than anything it's because of both the paint you chose, and the positioning of the overhead lighting. Change those Flood Cans to "Eyeball Spots", and direct the spot slightly toward the rear of the room and Presto.....a world of difference. Got Dimmers? No? Get some!


If that is a centered ceiling fixture.....change it out or shade the forward area. If the shot was taken in lighting you'll NEVER watch content in...the just ignore the last two paragraphs.










But do stop the fretting and Beating on the Breast about the Bulbs...leastwise until you do have something to pummel yourself (...or somebody else...) over.


----------



## joeags

I have what may be a goofy question.


With the recent advancement in wife acceptance (even prompting - who would know 2 versions of Pride & Prejudice HD DVD / Blu-ray would do that), I'll be getting a projector. I have never seen a projector anywhere but in a movie theater, and with a 4 1/2 year old, even that is a stretch. I've researched well enough to be happy with the 8350 specs (based on reviews, price, placement flexibility, picture quality, brightness & MississippiMan!). Being I have never seen it - is a projector something I SHOULD go view in advance?


This seems like one of those items that as long as you get a decent one, you will be thrilled... at least until you start to compare it with other projectors. So, are projectors (especially a first purchase - if you already own one, you have a comparison in mind) something you should pre-view, or do you do your research from the comfort of home and go for it?


----------



## buster6070




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have what may be a goofy question.
> 
> 
> With the recent advancement in wife acceptance (even prompting - who would know 2 versions of Pride & Prejudice HD DVD / Blu-ray would do that), I'll be getting a projector. I have never seen a projector anywhere but in a movie theater, and with a 4 1/2 year old, even that is a stretch. I've researched well enough to be happy with the 8350 specs (based on reviews, price, placement flexibility, picture quality, brightness & MississippiMan!). Being I have never seen it - is a projector something I SHOULD go view in advance?
> 
> 
> This seems like one of those items that as long as you get a decent one, you will be thrilled... at least until you start to compare it with other projectors. So, are projectors (especially a first purchase - if you already own one, you have a comparison in mind) something you should pre-view, or do you do your research from the comfort of home and go for it?



It's always smart/recommended to go look at what you want before you buy. That being said, the 8350 was my first projector too. I did my research and tried to educate myself best I could online. After deciding on the 8350, I ran out and bought mine from BB. I have yet to regret it and am extremely happy with the 8350. I think it's really just personal preference. None of my friends have projectors so nothing to compare too. And I don't plan on comparing the 8350 to anything else for 4 or 5 years when I may feal the urge to upgrade. Good luck.


----------



## rgs

I use a 50' HDMI cable with no problems


----------



## twgg

I would def. recommend you try to experience the projector first before buying, but it can be tough because it's subject to also the type of screen used and the room conditions.


The 8350 was my first projector too, and I think for the price, I'm satisfied. It's used in a almost completely light controlled room, except with white walls and ceilings, and with a good quality screen, the black levels aren't as good as I wanted (compared to a Plasma which is unfair I know), but again, for the price, it can't be beat. I would not want to pay another $500 just for better blacks. If anything, I would recommend a grey screen to help with the black levels. I went with a 1.0 white gain screen.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buster6070* /forum/post/19855499
> 
> 
> It's always smart/recommended to go look at what you want before you buy. That being said, the 8350 was my first projector too. I did my research and tried to educate myself best I could online. After deciding on the 8350, I ran out and bought mine from BB. I have yet to regret it and am extremely happy with the 8350. I think it's really just personal preference. None of my friends have projectors so nothing to compare too. And I don't plan on comparing the 8350 to anything else for 4 or 5 years when I may feal the urge to upgrade. Good luck.


----------



## jays_on

Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this mount from amazon or this mount from amazon? 


My uncle got the 2nd one, but I didn't have a lot of time to examine it, but it seems to be serving its purpose. Was thinking getting the $20 for $10 gift card to use on this purchase.

*Edit*, Ugh. I didn't notice the $10 shipping, kind of ruins the deal for me. It's just that I don't "NEED" one right now.


----------



## ikecomp

After much reading in AVS and other places I've decided to go with the Epson 8350 once income tax rolls around. I wanted to know if I should go with a grey or white Jamestown screen. From what I've read it seems to be a pretty solid screen for the price and the seller seems to be very reputable as well. I'm looking to get either a 106" or 110" screen. Because of my room I will have a maximum throw distance of about 11'. Seating will also be about 11' feet from the screen (projector will be on a rear shelf mount). 90% of projector usage will be at night with no ambient light. The other 10% will be at mid-day in a light controlled room with blackout curtains. Movies and Games will be the main usage with a little bit of sports mixed in.


Now my main question is, if I go with a jamestown screen should go I with white or grey? I was thinking grey to achieve better black levels but I'm concerned it may end up looking a little dim for my setup. I've also heard that grey screens can reduce the viewing angle a great deal (not a big concern but something to think about when I have friends over). Otherwise I could go with a white screen (which is cheaper) and enjoy the picture all the same.


Any advice would be appreciated and thanks in advance.


----------



## hard-case




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19852675
> 
> 
> My 8350 arrives tomorrow and I am trying to figure out the cabling so I can order an HDMI cable for it. Do you guys think I will have a problem with a 45' HDMI cable using a switcher with my PS3, xbox, and cable all hooked up to it? I can run the cable all around the room corners for 45' or I can run it up the middle of the wall and across the middle of the ceiling for 35' but my walls are white. The "wife" factor wants the 45' option. Do you guys think I would have sync or picture problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Wow....I'm having to do almost the same thing. Mostly because as much as I'd like to run the cable through the walls I'm not going to mess around doing that with vaulted celings that top out at 16'!


I can't say for the switcher, but I'm running my 8350 with a 50' HDMI cable I picked up from Amazon (startech, got decent reviews and it was Prime eligible) and I go between my PS3, an HD tuner for my OTA antenna, and a Macbook Pro via minidisplayPort to HDMI adapter and have had no problems with sync on any of them. However....I went in knowing that it was a crapshoot and the cable might have worked or might have not.


----------



## vladd

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jjsaustin* 
My friend has this one from Monoprice and said it works.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3009&seq=1&format=2 


Only $12
Quote:

Originally Posted by *vladd* 
I actually have this one on order. It should be here Monday so I can tell you if it works without modification or not.
My mount finally arrived today. I did a quick check to make sure that it fits:











As you can see, the fit is perfect. I'll mount it tonight or tomorrow (temporarily since the remodel is still in progress) to test exactly how sturdy it is but I can tell you that my initial impression is that it is pretty solid.


----------



## bonjovi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *joeags* 
I have what may be a goofy question.


With the recent advancement in wife acceptance (even prompting - who would know 2 versions of Pride & Prejudice HD DVD / Blu-ray would do that), I'll be getting a projector. I have never seen a projector anywhere but in a movie theater, and with a 4 1/2 year old, even that is a stretch. I've researched well enough to be happy with the 8350 specs (based on reviews, price, placement flexibility, picture quality, brightness & MississippiMan!). Being I have never seen it - is a projector something I SHOULD go view in advance?


This seems like one of those items that as long as you get a decent one, you will be thrilled... at least until you start to compare it with other projectors. So, are projectors (especially a first purchase - if you already own one, you have a comparison in mind) something you should pre-view, or do you do your research from the comfort of home and go for it?
My initial setup was going to be one of the New JVC models. I had viewed the older ones that costs around 6K. After much research, I ended up going with the Epson 8350. I am not enough of a videophile to notice a 5K difference in projectors. Granted I took a chance an bought the 8350 unseen but I'm glad I did. This way, when I do get that feeling to upgrade, I only spent a grand instead of 5 or 6. I don't think I will be upgrading any time soon. Maybe if 3D becomes huge or something and a must have feature at some point I'd consider it (if a new Epson or Panny comes out). I'm happy right now though I still need to configure things.


I guess it comes down to money. I am sure the Epson 8700 or JVC probably outperform this projector. I just can't see that performance being worth double, triple, quadruple the cost. And as a disclaimber, I've only seen a handful of projectors. Mitsu DLPs, JVC line are all I have to compare it to... in store environments.


----------



## jays_on

Quote:

Originally Posted by *vladd* 
My mount finally arrived today. I did a quick check to make sure that it fits:











As you can see, the fit is perfect. I'll mount it tonight or tomorrow (temporarily since the remodel is still in progress) to test exactly how sturdy it is but I can tell you that my initial impression is that it is pretty solid.
Nice work! Keep us posted. I'm going to pull the trigger on this if you think the finished product works well. Post a pic of it mounted if you don't mind!


I'm just not thrilled about the 6.7" drop. The pic on monoprice shows a shorter 80mm (or 3") pole as well. Did yours come with this?


----------



## fraisa

That mount looks nice,

Really Like the 3 leg design....

Can it go flush or do you have to keep the extension?


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
There exists a Market for "Extended Bulb Warranties" for PJs and RPTVs to address that failing...and most of THOSE Warranties only specify at most 2 replacement Bulbs over a 3 year period. Ya gotta send 'em your bad'un first though before they reciprocate. Those Warranties can cost between $150 to 299.00 and they cover the period AFTER the 30-90 day limits set by the Mfg.
You can buy lamp only warranties for a lot less than that. http://www.buydig.com/shop/product.a...B&sku=MKTVBULB If you are going to use your projector a lot it is not a bad idea. I have purchased three extended lamp warranties and used two of them. I did not use the third, but I did not keep that projector three years.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19860264
> 
> 
> That mount looks nice,
> 
> Really Like the 3 leg design....
> 
> Can it go flush or do you have to keep the extension?



I did a quick test and the two plates can be bolted together for a flush mount. However, the plates are loose that way. I would recommend putting a rubber grommet inbetween them to sturdy them. It would still have some play though. Alternatively, you could trim the plastic piece on top of the lower plate, down to the metal washer plate. That would allow the mount to still be levelled and provide a very sturdy semi flush mount.


I may end up going that route because the shortest extention is a little longer than I'd like. If I do, I'll take pics of the mod.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19860020
> 
> 
> Nice work! Keep us posted. I'm going to pull the trigger on this if you think the finished product works well. Post a pic of it mounted if you don't mind!
> 
> 
> I'm just not thrilled about the 6.7" drop. The pic on monoprice shows a shorter 80mm (or 3") pole as well. Did yours come with this?



It does come with both the 3" and 6" extention poles. I'm guessing on the lengths, I can measure them for accuracy later tonight. Watching TV with the wife at the moment.

*Edit: The two poles included with the mount are 150mm and 80mm (as you said in your post and I missed it).*


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19860568
> 
> 
> You can buy lamp only warranties for a lot less than that. http://www.buydig.com/shop/product.a...B&sku=MKTVBULB If you are going to use your projector a lot it is not a bad idea. I have purchased three extended lamp warranties and used two of them. I did not use the third, but I did not keep that projector three years.



You can use that when it begins to dim?? How "dim" does it have to be / how do they measure that?


I use my projector as a PC monitor on dynamic mode a lot and I'm already at 300+ hours so I am worried it will start to dim before I'm ready to spend $300 on a new bulb.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/19861346
> 
> 
> You can use that when it begins to dim?? How "dim" does it have to be / how do they measure that?
> 
> 
> I use my projector as a PC monitor on dynamic mode a lot and I'm already at 300+ hours so I am worried it will start to dim before I'm ready to spend $300 on a new bulb.



It depends on who you buy from. Mack has replaced lamps that dimmed excessively, but not a 100% sure thing.


----------



## newfmp3

Well I got mine mounted yesterday. Took down the old 4805 which had a 16' throw and moved the 8350 to a 12'9 throw. Closest I could get it and get my 110" screen size. Running huge HDMI cables is always fun










I continue to be impressed with this thing. I think it was a nice upgrade from the 4805 in most respects. It's certainly a LOT brighter and quieter then my 4805 (had ~1300 hours on it). The 4805 has better blacks though, and I'm not sure if I can say for certain if the DLP was smoother or not, I need to watch more on the 8350.


I HATE the iris. What a piece of junk idea this is. It's obviously my first LCD projector and first with an Iris. It operates too slow. I just ruins the experience when it dims so slowly even on high speed. You know a technology is flawed when they need to cheat to make blacks better.


But, colors are excellent, everything is good and sharp which had me worried hearing people complain about sharpness vs dlp. My sharpness is good across the entire screen too which is nice as my 4805 was not.


The Lens shift certainly makes it easier to mount, but I typically move my PJ where it has to be anyways so it doesn't matter to me. It was nice not having to be so exact this time around as DLP certainly requires precision.


There's a lot of nice little touches with the newer tech. Things you don't often think about. Ability to turn off illuminated buttons, several user custom memory settings, tons of calibration/gamma/color etc settings, two infrared sensors, 5 mounting points for 3 leg or 4 leg mounts, side mounted controls, sleep mode, ability to reset a single color mode to default (after you mess it up), instant power option....etc


I used a Peerless PPA telescopic mount with a 12 inch-17" drop. I did this to be able to use the High Power screen better. The mount is silver, comes with screws that fit the Epson. Seems solid, but I hate the screws in it as it uses their own little alan wrench thingie that installers hate. I got it for 70 bucks, I can't complain, it's a quality universal mount that should last me for ions.


My 4805 was an excellent PJ. Even after 4-5 years it was looking good with dvd and SD content. But what bugged me was going from one of my Plasma's with HD content, only to go watch a movie in my "movie room" on a SD projector. And the brightness of the 4805 could never match a real TV. Besides the jump to 1080p, I dont feel that I'm dropping much image quality/brightness going to and from tv's now, the PJ is just really bright and sharp looking.


The blacks are it's largest downside for me. It's not grey, but it's not black either. Grey screen would fit this PJ nicely. I'm shooting on a Drpaer M2500 right now, it looks really good, but screen is damaged and I'm putting up a high Power which should be here tomorrow weather permitting. Why HP? I've always wanted to try to make that screen work. A new challenge. I think a grey screen or a low gain ~1.4 screen would suit this PJ well for most people, at least in a light controlled room.


I don't have 10 hrs on it yet, but I'm happy so far. PS3 looks drop dead gorgeous on it. Played a little GT5 on it last night. I have not calibrated it yet, I see no point with new screen going up anyways. But it looks pretty good to me straight out of the box. I can't decide if I like Living Room in Eco mode better then cinema though. Living room is almost too bright, Cinema almost too dull.


So, so far so good.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19862223
> 
> 
> It depends on who you buy from. Mack has replaced lamps that dimmed excessively, but not a 100% sure thing.



That would have to be "excessive" as in totally unwatchable.


As a point, the Warranties cover Bulb failure, not simply the dimming effects of old age.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19862576
> 
> 
> Well I got mine mounted yesterday. Took down the old 4805 which had a 16' throw and moved the 8350 to a 12'9 throw. Closest I could get it and get my 110" screen size. Running huge HDMI cables is always fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue to be impressed with this thing. I think it was a nice upgrade from the 4805 in most respects. It's certainly a LOT brighter and quieter then my 4805 (had ~1300 hours on it). The 4805 has better blacks though...................
> 
> 
> The blacks are it's largest downside for me. It's not grey, but it's not black either. Grey screen would fit this PJ nicely. I'm shooting on a Drpaer M2500 right now, it looks really good, but screen is damaged and I'm putting up a high Power which should be here tomorrow weather permitting. Why HP? I've always wanted to try to make that screen work. A new challenge. I think a grey screen or a low gain ~1.4 screen would suit this PJ well for most people, at least in a light controlled room.
> 
> 
> I can't decide if I like Living Room in Eco mode better then cinema though. Living room is almost too bright, Cinema almost too dull.
> 
> 
> So, so far so good.



I don't think anyone would classify a screen with 1.4 gain as being a "Low Gain" screen.....unless compared to far higher gain screens like a 2.8 HP.



Well almost of a certainty your going to wind up using Cinema in Normal or Eco mode with a HP in place.


I use this PJ extensively with 1.4 gain medium dark Gray screens and the Blacks are interstellar in depth. If anything, your desire to try to make a high gain screen like the HP "work" is also going to work against your desire for better black levels, or in the least your going to Rob Peter to Pay Paul by reducing the PJs light output via Econo mode and a degree of calibration so as to suit the much higher reflectivity of the HP.


Good luck....although to me it seems to be a case where one hand is slapping the other, you just might find a good balance that your happy with.


----------



## newfmp3

I usually aim to use Cinema and Eco modes. I said in a previous post that once I get the HP, that's the mode I think I'll be using. I'm also using the new 2.4 material which doesn't seem to kill blacks as bad


Question to all about HDMI Switchers


I'd like a 4x2 with seperate sources to two TV's. My A/V receiver only supports 720p so I'm bypassing it - rxv -4600.


Which monoprice one should I get?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 

I see no mention of x.v. color on it though.


or
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Anyone have any issues with either and the 8350? using PS3/360/PC for sources. The other TV would be a panny plasma


----------



## Johnny_H

I would appreciate some input on my situation. I'm currently on my second 8350 as the first one I received was very poorly aligned (2+ pixels off red, 1 pixel off blue) and wouldn't even focus properly in the center of the screen. Epson sent me a brand new second unit which arrived last week. The convergence is a bit better on this unit (~1 pixel off) but the color uniformity is much worse. Last night with only 50 hours on the projector I also noticed a bright green dust blob about the size of a softball. Now I'm debating calling up again for another replacement.


I upgraded to an 8350 from a HC720 which had been great for 2.5 years and over 5000 hours. I never developed a dust blob and it had pretty decent color uniformity as it was only about ~1 pixel off. Compared to the new 8350 my old 720 still throws a much more uniform image. The 720 had only a mild red/blue shift from left to right.


Is everyone's color uniformity this bad on the 8350? (attached) I also have a strong red haze on the lower left corner in dark screens and a blue tint on white screens in the lower right. Has the red haze gone away for people after a few hundred hours? Thanks so far for the information in this thread. I just want to make sure my upgrade isn't a down grade.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* /forum/post/19862923
> 
> 
> I would appreciate some input on my situation. I'm currently on my second 8350 as the first one I received was very poorly aligned (2+ pixels off red, 1 pixel off blue) and wouldn't even focus properly in the center of the screen. Epson sent me a brand new second unit which arrived last week. The convergence is a bit better on this unit (~1 pixel off) but the color uniformity is much worse. Last night with only 50 hours on the projector I also noticed a bright green dust blob about the size of a softball. Now I'm debating calling up again for another replacement.
> 
> 
> I upgraded to an 8350 from a HC720 which had been great for 2.5 years and over 5000 hours. I never developed a dust blob and it had pretty decent color uniformity as it was only about ~1 pixel off. Compared to the new 8350 my old 720 still throws a much more uniform image. The 720 had only a mild red/blue shift from left to right.
> 
> 
> Is everyone's color uniformity this bad on the 8350? (attached) I also have a strong red haze on the lower left corner in dark screens and a blue tint on white screens in the lower right. Has the red haze gone away for people after a few hundred hours? Thanks so far for the information in this thread. I just want to make sure my upgrade isn't a down grade.



and once again, I repeat. Epson needs to do better QC. I don't remember seeing anything that major but I only got it mounted 11pm last night.


I'll check mine again tonight before I answer, just got it.


----------



## vladd

I'm definitely not seeing that on mine. My color is very uniform. Red is -1 pixel off and blue is +1 but it's unoticable at regular viewing distance.


----------



## nhpete

thought I'd throw up a vid I took (on my ipod) the other day. Been enjoying the PJ quite a bit - it's pretty killer right out of the box. Gotta fix a keystone issue; but that's my fault. A funny side effect of the huge screen is our english bulldog, Eunice, goes nuts when it's on --- she actually chased an Elk across the screen and thought it went into our utility room (she's a bit dumb)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16DaSj2-kc8 


Thanks AVS for all the great info provided in this thread and others!


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* /forum/post/19862923
> 
> 
> I would appreciate some input on my situation. I'm currently on my second 8350 as the first one I received was very poorly aligned (2+ pixels off red, 1 pixel off blue) and wouldn't even focus properly in the center of the screen. Epson sent me a brand new second unit which arrived last week. The convergence is a bit better on this unit (~1 pixel off) but the color uniformity is much worse. Last night with only 50 hours on the projector I also noticed a bright green dust blob about the size of a softball. Now I'm debating calling up again for another replacement.
> 
> 
> I upgraded to an 8350 from a HC720 which had been great for 2.5 years and over 5000 hours. I never developed a dust blob and it had pretty decent color uniformity as it was only about ~1 pixel off. Compared to the new 8350 my old 720 still throws a much more uniform image. The 720 had only a mild red/blue shift from left to right.
> 
> 
> Is everyone's color uniformity this bad on the 8350? (attached) I also have a strong red haze on the lower left corner in dark screens and a blue tint on white screens in the lower right. Has the red haze gone away for people after a few hundred hours? Thanks so far for the information in this thread. I just want to make sure my upgrade isn't a down grade.



That sucks. Send it back.


----------



## tiggermanh

After about 40-50 hours on my first projector that I picked up Cyber Monday, on a 122" screen on the right side, about 12" in the picture had heavy reds and greens. It only did this on dynamic and living room mode. Any other mode was fine. I sent it back with about 100 hrs.


EPSon sent me a new one this week, so far so good at 12Hrs on the projector.


----------



## Johnny_H

Thanks guys. Just spoke with epson. They asked me to send the photos I posed earlier. After they saw them they agreed it is a defective unit. Since this was already a replacement for my first one they bumped me up to Tier 2 support and are going to QC the new one before they send it out.


So far, so good dealing with their customer service. I don't like sending things back to the manufacturer and have probably put up with defective electronics more than I should have. I'm sure that once I have good unit that it will be well worth the hassle. I guess I got lucky with my HC720 the first time around. That projector has been a champ.


Can't wait to report back here with good news on my third unit...


----------



## mekkerl

Just ordered my 8350 from Visual Apex...pumped!!


I need to run a 25-30' HDMI cable to the projector...should I get the high speed cable? Or, is the regular cable just as good for that distance?


----------



## darealgerk

Got my PJ last night and I have to add that it was pretty impressive out of the box! Will do calibration once I get the new screen up. Haven't noticed any issues with color shift or convergence yet ...


----------



## kjr39

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mekkerl*
Just ordered my 8350 from Visual Apex...pumped!!


I need to run a 25-30' HDMI cable to the projector...should I get the high speed cable? Or, is the regular cable just as good for that distance?
It is not that much more expensive for the high speed cable (less than $10)


----------



## develvjd-

I'm looking to swap out the power cord on my 8350 with a short white one. Is this just a standard computer-style power cord that I could replace with a generic white one?


----------



## darealgerk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *develvjd-*
I'm looking to swap out the power cord on my 8350 with a short white one. Is this just a standard computer-style power cord that I could replace with a generic white one?
Yep.


----------



## Dan Hitchman

Isn't it just a generic IEC three-prong plug?


----------



## develvjd-

I can find short power cords, and *********** cords, but no short, *********** cords...


----------



## lakersin2025

Just got mine today from Visual Apex throwing on a high gloss white wall and damn it's awesome! I took a pic with my iPhone at about 4:00pm today with shades closed and a fair amount of light entering. Very impressed. 122" from 12 feet away.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19865335
> 
> 
> Just ordered my 8350 from Visual Apex...pumped!!
> 
> 
> I need to run a 25-30' HDMI cable to the projector...should I get the high speed cable? Or, is the regular cable just as good for that distance?



If you are going through walls it might not be a bad idea to get v1.4. Main reason being its 3D capable. The 8350 is only 1.3, but it will still work.


----------



## jays_on

Just thought I'd share some pics from my 8350 set up. I ordered the monoprice mount so I'll be able to remove the armoire that it is sitting on now. There is no editing other than resizing. Pics of course don't do justice, especially since I have no idea what I'm doing. They look a bit washed out. I'm using a 106" pull down screen from bb, unfortunately you can see some waves but it's not really noticeable while watching something.


I used the same shot fraisa used with his 9700ub of Despicable Me for comparison. Of course he has a lot of ambient light, but he's also using a black diamond screen!







The 8350 is no 8700 or 9700, but it's still pretty good!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19867898
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd share some pics from my 8350 set up. I ordered the monoprice mount so I'll be able to remove the armoire that it is sitting on now. There is no editing other than resizing. Pics of course don't do justice, especially since I have no idea what I'm doing. They look a bit washed out. I'm using a 106" pull down screen from bb, unfortunately you can see some waves but it's not really noticeable while watching something.
> 
> 
> I used the same shot fraisa used of Despicable Me with his 9700ub for comparison. Of course he has a lot of ambient light, but he's also using a black diamond screen!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 is no 8700 or 9700, but it's still pretty good!



Hey Jays,

Does your screen come out at the bottom ?

In your pic of your setup it doesnt look like its flush against your backdrop..

looks like its angleing out.


----------



## vladd

I think that is an optical illusion created by the black curtain. I could be wrong though.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19867242
> 
> 
> If you are going through walls it might not be a bad idea to get v1.4. Main reason being its 3D capable. The 8350 is only 1.3, but it will still work.



Great idea...will it improve PQ at all? Or just future-proof me for 3D?


----------



## suade907

Are you guys happy with your 8350?


After a week of use I've been having a hard time deciding if I'm sending mine back. I've been a little dissapointed with the black levels and the clarity of the image. I can run the highest quality hd-dvd or Blu ray to the device and it just doesn't pop like on a tv even at only 90 inches. I've been having a hard time getting the colors accurate as well. I am shining the image on my off white wall but never had a issue in the past with my old Sanyo Z3. I think that the sanyo may of had better blacks as well. Also just last night after 10 hours of use the device started making crazy noises like a hard drive constantly running. It was much louder than I remember because before that it was dead silent. Now it's still quiet but that sound of a hard drive running drives me crazy making me wonder if it was always there or is something inside going bad already.


Thanks for any info


----------



## Quick Hands

Vladd and Jays-n love to hear your thoughts on the monoprice mount I'm currently looking into this option as well.


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19869575
> 
> 
> Vladd and Jays-n love to hear your thoughts on the monoprice mount I'm currently looking into this option as well.



I currently have (I think) that monoprice projector mount. I've been using it for a couple of years with my older projector (old infocus) which was MUCH smaller than the 8350. I will be trying it out with my new 8350 hopefully this weekend at some point so I'll let you all know how it goes.


That said it's not an amazing mount ... it's very easily moved out of position since there's no way to "lock" it once you have it set in place ... but as long as you're not constantly making changes on your projector it will probably work fairly well. If you have a 2.35:1 and 1.78:1 and you're changing between setups all the time then you'll probably hate it. I found that even with my much lighter projector it would slowly drift a bit, I would have to re-adjust it about once every other week or so.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* /forum/post/19862923
> 
> 
> I would appreciate some input on my situation. I'm currently on my second 8350 as the first one I received was very poorly aligned (2+ pixels off red, 1 pixel off blue) and wouldn't even focus properly in the center of the screen. Epson sent me a brand new second unit which arrived last week. The convergence is a bit better on this unit (~1 pixel off) but the color uniformity is much worse. Last night with only 50 hours on the projector I also noticed a bright green dust blob about the size of a softball. Now I'm debating calling up again for another replacement.
> 
> 
> I upgraded to an 8350 from a HC720 which had been great for 2.5 years and over 5000 hours. I never developed a dust blob and it had pretty decent color uniformity as it was only about ~1 pixel off. Compared to the new 8350 my old 720 still throws a much more uniform image. The 720 had only a mild red/blue shift from left to right.
> 
> 
> Is everyone's color uniformity this bad on the 8350? (attached) I also have a strong red haze on the lower left corner in dark screens and a blue tint on white screens in the lower right. Has the red haze gone away for people after a few hundred hours? Thanks so far for the information in this thread. I just want to make sure my upgrade isn't a down grade.



I gave mine a better look last night. I'm a pixel off on red/blue. Color is so far very consistent across the screen. Focus is good across screen, and no dust blobs yet. I see no red haze on black or white and the iris is quiet


Now that I have said that I expect it to blow up any minute now....jinxed myself


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19869575
> 
> 
> Vladd and Jays-n love to hear your thoughts on the monoprice mount I'm currently looking into this option as well.



I've got it mounted and it's pretty solid. I've got pics to post later and I'll have some tips for some quirks that I found.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darealgerk* /forum/post/19870210
> 
> 
> it's very easily moved out of position since there's no way to "lock" it once you have it set in place



That's one of the quirks. I found if you tightened it before putting up, it stayed in place better and you could still adjust it. I think I figured out a way to tighten it down once it's in place though. Let you know soon.


----------



## mrsynthetico

Hi,


I got my projector late yesterday, turned it on and after a minute or so of warming up the red lamp light began to flash. The lamp never turned on. I tried removing and re-inserting the lamp several times, no change.


I even partly took the lamp apart, I really can't see anything wrong with it, it's brand new. I already called Epson and am having a new lamp sent out, but, of course it wont be here until Monday, meaning I'll be missing this weekend's games.


My question is, is there anything I can try to see if I can get it working? Maybe some connection I should look at? It really doesn't look like the lamp itself is blown, so I'm thinking it's some connection somewhere. I can post photos if needed.


Thank you.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suade907* /forum/post/19869035
> 
> 
> Also just last night after 10 hours of use the device started making crazy noises like a hard drive constantly running. It was much louder than I remember because before that it was dead silent. Now it's still quiet but that sound of a hard drive running drives me crazy making me wonder if it was always there or is something inside going bad already.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any info



Check to see if you auto-iris was turned on.


----------



## suade907

Yes the auto iris is on. It started to make the noise right after 10 hours. Before that it was dead silent. I figured it must be the iris somehow but not having heard it before that I thought maybe something was going bad.


----------



## vladd

The auto iris is pretty loud, I'm surprised if you hadn't heard it. You can turn it off to check to see if that is indeed the noise you're hearing.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19868052
> 
> 
> Hey Jays,
> 
> Does your screen come out at the bottom ?
> 
> In your pic of your setup it doesnt look like its flush against your backdrop..
> 
> looks like its angleing out.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19868089
> 
> 
> I think that is an optical illusion created by the black curtain. I could be wrong though.



Ya it's an optical illusion, I thought about saying something. It's actually 2 pics stitched together. Panoramic shots never come out quite right for me! Nice observation!


----------



## mekkerl

My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19868925
> 
> 
> Great idea...will it improve PQ at all? Or just future-proof me for 3D?



nah, Just future-proof.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



Ps3


----------



## Merccyyy

Hey guys I have a question. Is there any frame issues when watching sports or anything at a high rate with the 8350? Im looking to get a 8350 as a first projector but have no idea if there is a frame rate issue with sports or anything at high frame rates.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19872490
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



If you want one around the $100-150 range get a Sony or Panasonic.

Sony if you plan on streaming. Panasonic has issues with streaming reliably.

Both are great players and upconvert DVD's very well.

Stay away from LG & Samsung due to lack of support.


If you've got $300, get a PS3.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19872490
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



X3 on the PS3 being the best bluray player out there. its not the most user friendly interface, and you will need a bluetooth adapter to use all the functions of the PS3 with a universal remote. however for load speed, upgradeability and quality output the thing is tops. I set my folks up with a PS3 release model for their home theater. however they were constantly calling me to figure out how to use it. I think I will have to get them set up with an activity based remote this summer when I visit them. there is a PS3 deals thread over in the home theater gaming forum you can watch for deals. $50-$100 gift cards are pretty common recently which will bring the purchase price down to $200-250.


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've got it mounted and it's pretty solid. I've got pics to post later and I'll have some tips for some quirks that I found.
> 
> 
> That's one of the quirks. I found if you tightened it before putting up, it stayed in place better and you could still adjust it. I think I figured out a way to tighten it down once it's in place though. Let you know soon.



I setup my PJ tonight with the monoprice mount and it was fine. I dud have to seriously torque the pivot adjustment, but it's all good for me so far.


----------



## Quick Hands

@ 42 Plasmaman I read in another thread you purchased a Jamestown screen just wondering if you were still using it with your 8350 and if so your impressions. I have a dedicated thread in the screen section on Jamestown if you could post it there it would be very helpful.

Much Appreciated

Scott


----------



## smurf01501

I have had my 8350 for a week now and last night I noticed a small 3" dust blob. It is only noticeable on a black screen or dark space scene. Do I return it to the store. I have a 4 year warranty through Best Buy. Would this become worse over time? Is this going to be a reoccuring problem with this projector? Should I try to blast some air to dislodge it somehow? Not sure what course of action to take. Do I just live with it?


Jeff


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19874787
> 
> 
> @ 42 Plasmaman I read in another thread you purchased a Jamestown screen just wondering if you were still using it with your 8350 and if so your impressions. I have a dedicated thread in the screen section on Jamestown if you could post it there it would be very helpful.
> 
> Much Appreciated
> 
> Scott



It's a great screen and comparable to some of the $500-1000 screens I've sampled.

Better than the Elite screen I had. No textures in the picture or hot spotting.


I had a 100" and upgraded to a custom 117".

Only thing sort of cheap is the frame is wood but the 4in velvet border hides it.

The velvet does a great job absorbing any overscan.

It takes a minimum of two people to stretch the screen. One to pull/tug while the other tighten the screws.

It takes about 30-45 minutes to get the screen wrinkle free but once all is done, I've never had wrinkles reappear. Larger the screen, more time it takes to iron out the wrinkles. Also, do not use a drill to over tighten the screws/bolts. Remember, it's wood.


I'd suggest getting some mounting rings to hang it, which I mentioned in the Jamestown thread.


$215 for a custom "117 can't be beat.



*if you get a screen not in stock, it does take 2-4 weeks for delivery.


----------



## indybrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19872490
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



I love my PS3. Movies and games look great!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smurf01501* /forum/post/19874830
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 for a week now and last night I noticed a small 3" dust blob. It is only noticeable on a black screen or dark space scene. Do I return it to the store. I have a 4 year warranty through Best Buy. Would this become worse over time? Is this going to be a reoccuring problem with this projector? Should I try to blast some air to dislodge it somehow? Not sure what course of action to take. Do I just live with it?
> 
> 
> Jeff



If it's within 30 days, Best Buy will let you exchange it.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19875875
> 
> 
> If it's within 30 days, Best Buy will let you exchange it.



And if you are a premium silver rewards member its 45 days


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19872490
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



LG 5550 is a great budget machine. Plays EVERYTHING including MKV's from a USB drive. The PS3 DOES NOT play MKV's.


----------



## allen1994

i bought the sony bdp-s370 palyer. Most of my movies are in .mkv format over 4GB on an external USB HD. Unfortunately, the USB port is FAT32 and does not recognized the hard drive in NTFS. Does the LG5550 have this issue?


----------



## MelCarl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19875827
> 
> 
> It's a great screen and comparable to some of the $500-1000 screens I've sampled.
> 
> Better than the Elite screen I had. No textures in the picture or hot spotting.
> 
> 
> I had a 100" and upgraded to a custom 117".
> 
> Only thing sort of cheap is the frame is wood but the 4in velvet border hides it.
> 
> The velvet does a great job absorbing any overscan.
> 
> It takes a minimum of two people to stretch the screen. One to pull/tug while the other tighten the screws.
> 
> It takes about 30-45 minutes to get the screen wrinkle free but once all is done, I've never had wrinkles reappear. Larger the screen, more time it takes to iron out the wrinkles. Also, do not use a drill to over tighten the screws/bolts. Remember, it's wood.
> 
> 
> I'd suggest getting some mounting rings to hang it, which I mentioned in the Jamestown thread.
> 
> 
> $215 for a custom "117 can't be beat.
> 
> 
> 
> *if you get a screen not in stock, it does take 2-4 weeks for delivery.



I have one of his screens too and it's wood as you describe yours. I've been very happy with mine but it is beginning to bow just a bit in the middle of the lower frame. Mine is a 100" viewing area. According to the website, it seems as though he is making the frames out of aluminum now. It also looks like he is using a different screen material. Maybe it's time for me to upgrade. (Perhaps when I order my 8350)


----------



## lakersin2025

Anyone else have a green line on the top and side about 2 pixels wide?


----------



## Quick Hands

42plasmaman and Melcarl thanks so much for your responses they really ease my mind the screen choice was the most agonizing choice yet in this madness we love!!!

I believe he has changed some of the frame to aluminum and I'll read your mounting suggestions in the thread the wife just asked how I plan on hanging it and I told her I don't know yet.














Melcarl I have a dedicated screen thread about this selection with a few 8350 owners in it that might help your selection. $300 for a 130 inch with tax and shipping can't be beat either. Plasmaman glad to hear you think it's better than the elite as that was my other option and the title of my thread Jamestown or Elite please advise and you just did!!
























Much Appreciated


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19878186
> 
> 
> 42plasmaman and Melcarl thanks so much for your responses they really ease my mind the screen choice was the most agonizing choice yet in this madness we love!!!
> 
> I believe he has changed some of the frame to aluminum and I'll read your mounting suggestions in the thread the wife just asked how I plan on hanging it and I told her I don't know yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Melcarl I have a dedicated screen thread about this selection with a few 8350 owners in it that might help your selection. $300 for a 130 inch with tax and shipping can't be beat either. Plasmaman glad to hear you think it's better than the elite as that was my other option and the title of my thread Jamestown or Elite please advise and you just did!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much Appreciated




I just put one of these screens up today for a guy. It is the 130" Jamestown screen. Along with a new Epson 8350. Not a bad combo at all! I nor the fellow working with me was impressed with the build of this screen. Kinda flimsy and too many separations to be sturdy.


I almost bought one myself a while back. Kinda glad I didn't now. The screen material looks very sturdy, much better than my Favi in build but not in gain. The Favi's frame is better, being that it is all aluminum with only four pieces to make the frame verses 6 for the Jamestown.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen1994* /forum/post/19876982
> 
> 
> i bought the sony bdp-s370 palyer. Most of my movies are in .mkv format over 4GB on an external USB HD. Unfortunately, the USB port is FAT32 and does not recognized the hard drive in NTFS. Does the LG5550 have this issue?



I have this issue on my PS3. When you make the mkv file you can tell it to break the file up for FAT32 so it will break it into 4 GB chunks. The player will play the files in sequence with hardly a blip when it switches to the new file. Definitely the way to go for larger files with the FAT32 limitation.


----------



## Quick Hands




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19878315
> 
> 
> I just put one of these screens up today for a guy. It is the 130" Jamestown screen. Along with a new Epson 8350. Not a bad combo at all! I nor the fellow working with me was impressed with the build of this screen. Kinda flimsy and too many separations to be sturdy.
> 
> 
> I almost bought one myself a while back. Kinda glad I didn't now. The screen material looks very sturdy, much better than my Favi in build but not in gain. The Favi's frame is better, being that it is all aluminum with only four pieces to make the frame verses 6 for the Jamestown.



Joesyah thanks for the input wondering if you watched any material on that combo as it is the same one I will be going with and your impressions of it as you obviously have other systems to compare it to. I am especially concerned about brightness,contrast, and detail.


Thanks


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19876859
> 
> 
> LG 5550 is a great budget machine. Plays EVERYTHING including MKV's from a USB drive. The PS3 DOES NOT play MKV's.



Not true. You can play MKV files on PS3. http://hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Play-...-Playstation-3


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19879629
> 
> 
> Joesyah thanks for the input wondering if you watched any material on that combo as it is the same one I will be going with and your impressions of it as you obviously have other systems to compare it to. I am especially concerned about brightness,contrast, and detail.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Overall I found the image quite pleasant. The colors were very good on the Epson. The image isn't as sharp as a DLP but close enough that if you don't have anything next to it to compare you'll be happy. Pop was good..not DLP pop though.


I found the contrast to be terrific for a projector in this price class. It was easy to setup thanks to the lens shift.

This is a VERY bright projector depending on the mode. Comparing it to the light cannons Benq W1000 or W6000 it holds its own.


If you've got the extra cash you can probably find a close out 8500 for not much more. It will be better at everything.


That screen was a pain to assemble. The Elite would be a better option. I'm not sure about the price of a 130" Elite screen if they make them that size.


----------



## Quick Hands




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19879707
> 
> 
> Overall I found the image quite pleasant. The colors were very good on the Epson. The image isn't as sharp as a DLP but close enough that if you don't have anything next to it to compare you'll be happy. Pop was good..not DLP pop though.
> 
> 
> I found the contrast to be terrific for a projector in this price class. It was easy to setup thanks to the lens shift.
> 
> This is a VERY bright projector depending on the mode. Comparing it to the light cannons Benq W1000 or W6000 it holds its own.
> 
> 
> If you've got the extra cash you can probably find a close out 8500 for not much more. It will be better at everything.
> 
> 
> That screen was a pain to assemble. The Elite would be a better option. I'm not sure about the price of a 130" Elite screen if they make them that size.



Thanks I already have the 8350 and it's my first projector so I think it's great and the Jamestown is on order I'm new to this so the placement flexibility of LCD was needed. Yes and budget was a big concern on both purchases great to hear your perspective as you have seen quite a few projectors and screens.


Much Appreciated


----------



## EJ

I would urge all of you to check out Carada screens. I've had mine for 7 years, and not one wrinkle. They're a forum sponsor.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/19879820
> 
> 
> Thanks I already have the 8350 and it's my first projector so I think it's great and the Jamestown is on order I'm new to this so the placement flexibility of LCD was needed. Yes and budget was a big concern on both purchases great to hear your perspective as you have seen quite a few projectors and screens.
> 
> 
> Much Appreciated



No problem..Quick hands. Don't say I didn't warn you about that screen..lol...when you're cursing trying to get it to stay together.Good luck


----------



## chicagovet

A (probably dumb) question from a technically-challenged home projectionist:


Here's what I have:


--a beautiful, new Epson 8350

--a small Toshiba HD TV set

--a Sony Blu-Ray player

--a new DirectTV HD receiver (w/ one HDMI Out)

--a Yamaha RX-V467 Receiver (coming soon)


In a nutshell: How do I hook things up so that I'm able to watch Blu-Ray *OR* TV in High-Def on my 8350??


I'm stumped, puzzled and perplexed about this because A/V Receivers have only *one* HDMI input. It seems like I would need a receiver with *two*: one for the DirectTV HDMI cable, and one for the Blu-Ray cable.


Please help with a solution--and feel free to call me a dummy while doing so.


----------



## Davinleeds

Newer AVRs have many hdmi inputs. The Onkyo 605 only had two.


----------



## wcmlutz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chicagovet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A (probably dumb) question from a technically-challenged home projectionist:
> 
> 
> Here's what I have:
> 
> 
> --a beautiful, new Epson 8350
> 
> --a small Toshiba HD TV set
> 
> --a Sony Blu-Ray player
> 
> --a new DirectTV HD receiver (w/ one HDMI Out)
> 
> --a Yamaha RX-V467 Receiver (coming soon)
> 
> 
> In a nutshell: How do I hook things up so that I'm able to watch Blu-Ray *OR* TV in High-Def on my 8350??
> 
> 
> I'm stumped, puzzled and perplexed about this because A/V Receivers have only *one* HDMI input. It seems like I would need a receiver with *two*: one for the DirectTV HDMI cable, and one for the Blu-Ray cable.
> 
> 
> Please help with a solution--and feel free to call me a dummy while doing so.



That Yamaha receiver isn't going to give you the most options. Assuming your BD player and the direct TV box have component outs, I would run component and HDMI from each source to the AVR. That AVR has 2 component inputs and one output to connect to the TV. The AVR has 4HDMI inputs and one output which should go to the 8350. This AVR doesn't give the capability of up converting to HDMI.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chicagovet* /forum/post/19880168
> 
> 
> A (probably dumb) question from a technically-challenged home projectionist:
> 
> 
> Here's what I have:
> 
> 
> --a beautiful, new Epson 8350
> 
> --a small Toshiba HD TV set
> 
> --a Sony Blu-Ray player
> 
> --a new DirectTV HD receiver (w/ one HDMI Out)
> 
> --a Yamaha RX-V467 Receiver (coming soon)
> 
> 
> In a nutshell: How do I hook things up so that I'm able to watch Blu-Ray *OR* TV in High-Def on my 8350??
> 
> 
> I'm stumped, puzzled and perplexed about this because A/V Receivers have only *one* HDMI input. It seems like I would need a receiver with *two*: one for the DirectTV HDMI cable, and one for the Blu-Ray cable.
> 
> 
> Please help with a solution--and feel free to call me a dummy while doing so.



You need to have the HDMI output from the AVR into an HDMI switch with two outputs. One out to the TV and one out to the projector. AVR's with two OUTPUTs are very expensive...


----------



## chicagovet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19880403
> 
> 
> You need to have the HDMI output from the AVR into an HDMI switch with two outputs. One out to the TV and one out to the projector. AVR's with two OUTPUTs are very expensive...



Mekkerl,


Thanks for the reply.


Now I understand what I meant to say was only one HDMI _*output*_, not input. (Shows you my confused state of mind!)


I'd heard about the HDMI switches, and wondered if that might be the solution.


Is there any downside (video or audio quality-wise) to using one of those switches?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/19879891
> 
> 
> I would urge all of you to check out Carada screens. I've had mine for 7 years, and not one wrinkle. They're a forum sponsor.



I sampled their screen material and the Jamestown screen is comparable to their Classic Cinema screen in gain, color uniformity/accuracy and texture.

Also, $800 vs $250

Carada does have a better frame but not sure if it's worth $550


I agree that the Jamestown frame is a flexible and not as ridged as an all aluminum frame but once it's hung and mounted, it's a moot point.


----------



## iq100

I believe one way to understand the flickering and other problems, is:

AMD Eyefinity specifications/design include four TDMS dual channels.

It takes dual channel to do BOTH 2560x1600 AND 30 bit color (10 bits x 3).

However a single channel is capable of 2560x1600 at lesser color depths.

Different card manufacturers may NOT bring out the internal AMD graphic chips four dual channel TDMS capability. Most don't.

When a HDMI card connector is provided I do NOT believe it is capable of 2560x1600 and 30 bit color, because HDMI is NOT dual channel capable.

Most implementations of HDMI top out out 1920x1200.

HDMI's HDCP also means the 'last device' on the signal chain must be ON and capable of participating in the HDCP handshake. When a HDMI splitter is used, it can be problematic as to which device does the HDCP handsaking.


I have two Dell U3011 monitors and am suffering similar growing pains.


iq100

the best way to delete an idea is to post one of your own


----------



## Severum88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sampled their screen material and the Jamestown screen is comparable to their Classic Cinema screen in gain, color uniformity/accuracy and texture.
> 
> Also, $800 vs $250
> 
> Carada does have a better frame but not sure if it's worth $550
> 
> 
> I agree that the Jamestown frame is a flexible and not as ridged as an all aluminum frame but once it's hung and mounted, it's a moot point.



Not sure a warping and flexible frame will stay a moot point over time. If he's moved on to aluminum you might be ok if there's minimal flex.


Sev


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Severum88* /forum/post/19881558
> 
> 
> Not sure a warping and flexible frame will stay a moot point over time. If he's moved on to aluminum you might be ok if there's minimal flex.
> 
> 
> Sev



Should be a good screen. He is using an inner aluminum frame that has adjustable tension and a wood (hardwood plywood) wrapped with velvet for the outer frame.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19882065
> 
> 
> Should be a good screen. He is using an inner aluminum frame that has adjustable tension and a wood (hardwood plywood) wrapped with velvet for the outer frame.



If this is the same as what I installed yesterday. I can tell ya it's not stable at all. The frame just came in last week. So I would think it is his newest frame. Time to go back to the drawing board on that one.


If the outer frame were 4 solid pieces instead of the top and bottom being 2 separate boards. The frame would be much sturdier and it wouldn't need that aluminum brace running up the center of the screen.


Moving this screen just once after an install can destroy it.


I can take my screen down by myself. Do that with the 130" Jamestown and chances are you'll have to buy another screen. It will fold and break apart in the center .


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19875875
> 
> 
> If it's within 30 days, Best Buy will let you exchange it.



Just returned it. I hope I have better luck with my new one.


Jeff


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Severum88* /forum/post/19881558
> 
> 
> Not sure a warping and flexible frame will stay a moot point over time. If he's moved on to aluminum you might be ok if there's minimal flex.
> 
> 
> Sev



I use 2 D style rings on top/back to hang the screen.

Then I use some custom L brackets tied together to mount the bottom and sort of hold it in place.

I had my 100" on for about 18 months with no issues of bowing or sagging and my 117" has not signs of bowing or sagging.

These are also the 100% inner and outter wood frames.


I suppose that my bottom mounting brackets help prvent any bowing or sagging that could occur.

Nevetheless, for the price and PQ, it can't be beat.


Top D rings.












Bottom brackets:


frame

|

V

__|

|


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have this issue on my PS3. When you make the mkv file you can tell it to break the file up for FAT32 so it will break it into 4 GB chunks. The player will play the files in sequence with hardly a blip when it switches to the new file. Definitely the way to go for larger files with the FAT32 limitation.



Download mkv2vob


----------



## supermoore1025

So is this projector consider 60hz or 120hz like tvs?


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen1994* /forum/post/19876982
> 
> 
> i bought the sony bdp-s370 palyer. Most of my movies are in .mkv format over 4GB on an external USB HD. Unfortunately, the USB port is FAT32 and does not recognized the hard drive in NTFS. Does the LG5550 have this issue?



Nope. Just played a 9.4GB rip on a 32GB flash drive formatted to NTFS. No problems!


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19879673
> 
> 
> Not true. You can play MKV files on PS3. http://hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Play-...-Playstation-3



That's not the PS3 playing an MKV file. That's ANOTHER PC swapping the container type and re-saving in another format. The PS3 STILL isn't playing a native MKV.


----------



## Favelle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/19878925
> 
> 
> I have this issue on my PS3. When you make the mkv file you can tell it to break the file up for FAT32 so it will break it into 4 GB chunks. The player will play the files in sequence with hardly a blip when it switches to the new file. Definitely the way to go for larger files with the FAT32 limitation.



Its almost comical that in this day and age an electronic device is still crippled by the 4GB FAT32 limitation. Its 2011!!!!!


----------



## Coderabit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19388832
> 
> 
> You People are making me Crazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RPA-U costs EXACTLY the same as the dedicated RPA 168, a Mount that comes with a specifically designed Plate that fits onto every Mounting Hole, is Low profile to the extreme, and is just plain "Mo bedder" !!!!!
> 
> 
> The 168 is the same RPA that services all 8000 / 9000 series Epsons.
> 
> 
> do I really have to repeat this over....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over.....and over....................................



Before I read this I eneded up buying the RPAU. Is there a way to buy the different piece for the 168? How much should it be?


----------



## EJ

If Epson is using the new, more stringent guidelines to get 2000 lumens from the 8350, and 1600 from the 8700ub. What kind of lumen output could they claim under the old standard?


It makes me wonder what actual output I was getting from my first projector, a Sony 1252 3 gun CRT.


(nevermind, the spec sheet said 200 lumens all white, 700 lumens peak white)


----------



## Santi8

I have been reading these forums for hours and hours, and after weighing my options I think I have made my decision. We just moved into our new house and I have a nice bonus/dedicated theater room 17x12. There are 2 small windows that have blackout curtains so ambient light won't be an issue. Originally i was looking into a 55" 3D LED set, but the $3000 price tag went out the window once we moved into our house. The fiancé was much more responsive to the $1300 price tag on the 8350. I am planning on pairing it up with a 100" Jamestown white screen at around a 12ft throw. There will be two rows of theater seating with viewing distances of about 11 and 15 ft.


I am looking at receivers now to replace my outdated Sony. Looking to keep my costs low, but I'm not expecting to get a receiver for $100. What have people been running with the 8350 with good results. I will have PS3, 360, and comcast running through the receiver. I plan on 50% sports, 25% video games, 25% blue ray.


Am I on the right track, or is there more I should know?


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19884440
> 
> 
> I have been reading these forums for hours and hours, and after weighing my options I think I have made my decision. We just moved into our new house and I have a nice bonus/dedicated theater room 17x12. There are 2 small windows that have blackout curtains so ambient light won't be an issue. Originally i was looking into a 55" 3D LED set, but the $3000 price tag went out the window once we moved into our house. The fiancé was much more responsive to the $1300 price tag on the 8350. I am planning on pairing it up with a 100" Jamestown white screen at around a 12ft throw. There will be two rows of theater seating with viewing distances of about 11 and 15 ft.
> 
> 
> I am looking at receivers now to replace my outdated Sony. Looking to keep my costs low, but I'm not expecting to get a receiver for $100. What have people been running with the 8350 with good results. I will have PS3, 360, and comcast running through the receiver. I plan on 50% sports, 25% video games, 25% blue ray.
> 
> 
> Am I on the right track, or is there more I should know?



You are on the right track, and yes, there is more to know. There is always more to know.


First thing to be aware of is that a projector is not a big TV. It is something else entirely. A big difference is that you need to have the room dark for good results, especially with a value screen. That will limit other activities. While you can run a conventional TV in a moderately lit room and read, knit or whatever, when you are running a projector, you are watching the program.


That second row of seats is a bit close. Remember when you specify distance, that is distance to the eyeballs. with 4', and a typical 30" cushion depth, you only have about a foot of floor space between the two rows. With this room, you are likely to have the second row right up against the back wall. You will likely need a riser for the second row to allow for good sight lines. If you can't put the second row against the back wall, you may need to rethink two rows.


Most any modern receiver from Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha or Sony is likely to handle the job. Forget the low end HTIB units from Sony , Panasonic, etc as they can't handle the switching. However, it is amazing what $200 buys you these days. I would look for growth in # of HDMI inputs (get at least 4), ability to handle the modern audio formats and ability to upconvert analog sources, (if you have any) to the HDMI output.


Good luck in your build.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19884440
> 
> 
> I am looking at receivers now to replace my outdated Sony. Looking to keep my costs low, but I'm not expecting to get a receiver for $100. What have people been running with the 8350 with good results. I will have PS3, 360, and comcast running through the receiver. I plan on 50% sports, 25% video games, 25% blue ray.
> 
> 
> Am I on the right track, or is there more I should know?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19884655
> 
> 
> You are on the right track, and yes, there is more to know. There is always more to know.
> 
> 
> 
> Most any modern receiver from Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha or Sony is likely to handle the job. Forget the low end HTIB units from Sony , Panasonic, etc as they can't handle the switching. However, it is amazing what $200 buys you these days. I would look for growth in # of HDMI inputs (get at least 4), ability to handle the modern audio formats and ability to upconvert analog sources, (if you have any) to the HDMI output.



Well $200.00 isn't where he's gonna wind up!









You won't find that entire list of features on any Receiver under $499.00....unless it's a Refurb. Especially 4 HDMI inputs "and" Up Conversion



Stick to what's familiar to you. Consider a SONY STR-DA2400es


100 wpc x 7

v.1.3 HDMI Switching w/4 HDMI Inputs

1080p Up Conversion

Ultimate Compatibility with the PS3


$599.00 retail Cut a Deal if you can. I have seen them go for / have gotten them for a bit under $499.00


BTW, you might want to reconsider the Jamestown. Saving big on the PJ helps justify some leeway on the Receiver / Screen.

I'm just saying do a bit more research or ask for some specific advice from people who know and you'll almost always be the better for the effort.


Good Hunting










MM.

PS,


Lottsa other good tips in there, jayn_j !


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are on the right track, and yes, there is more to know. There is always more to know.
> 
> 
> First thing to be aware of is that a projector is not a big TV. It is something else entirely. A big difference is that you need to have the room dark for good results, especially with a value screen. That will limit other activities. While you can run a conventional TV in a moderately lit room and read, knit or whatever, when you are running a projector, you are watching the program.
> 
> 
> That second row of seats is a bit close. Remember when you specify distance, that is distance to the eyeballs. with 4', and a typical 30" cushion depth, you only have about a foot of floor space between the two rows. With this room, you are likely to have the second row right up against the back wall. You will likely need a riser for the second row to allow for good sight lines. If you can't put the second row against the back wall, you may need to rethink two rows.
> 
> 
> Most any modern receiver from Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha or Sony is likely to handle the job. Forget the low end HTIB units from Sony , Panasonic, etc as they can't handle the switching. However, it is amazing what $200 buys you these days. I would look for growth in # of HDMI inputs (get at least 4), ability to handle the modern audio formats and ability to upconvert analog sources, (if you have any) to the HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Good luck in your build.



I am already in the process of building the riser in the back of the room. It will be 12" high in a room with 10' ceilings. As for the space between the rows, that is very flexible, I was just giving approximate distances. I will probably end up adjusting to my liking. I left myself plenty of wiggle room including the ability to back all the way up to the back wall if necessary.


For the receiver, I definitely want at least 3 HDMI's, up-conversion, and I'm still unsure about 7.1 and 5.1. Also, I wired the room with monoprice 1.4's so I'll probably get a receiver that supports high speed hdmi to avoid any issues in the future.


----------



## justinkwaugh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19884791
> 
> 
> Well $200.00 isn't where he's gonna wind up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You won't find that entire list of features on any Receiver under $499.00....unless it's a Refurb. Especially 4 HDMI inputs "and" Up Conversion
> 
> 
> 
> MM.



I respectfully disagree. Look at the Pioneer VSX-920-k. It can easily be bought sub $300 and has 7.1 output, 4 hdmi inputs, supports all modern audio formats, and has upconversion of analog. It sounds perfect for his application to me.


----------



## EJ

I always tell people interested in my projector that you need a dark room. Telling them that the blacks on the screen can only be as dark as the light from the room bouncing off it.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19884951
> 
> 
> I am already in the process of building the riser in the back of the room. It will be 12" high in a room with 10' ceilings. As for the space between the rows, that is very flexible, I was just giving approximate distances. I will probably end up adjusting to my liking. I left myself plenty of wiggle room including the ability to back all the way up to the back wall if necessary.
> 
> 
> For the receiver, I definitely want at least 3 HDMI's, up-conversion, and I'm still unsure about 7.1 and 5.1. Also, I wired the room with monoprice 1.4's so I'll probably get a receiver that supports high speed hdmi to avoid any issues in the future.



I also disagree with MM here (a rare thing). Look at the Denon AVR-391 at under $200. Now, I'd probably look at the $400-500 point myself, but I find it remarkable the changes that have occurred in receiver technology in the last 2 years. $200 today buys you something better than $500 got you in 2007.


Most everything out this year supports 1.4, so that's not an issue. I also find the whole 7.1 thing overblown. My receivers support 7.1, but I have them configured as 5.1. I have configured 7.1 in the past, but there is very little true 7.1 material out there. To be perfectly frank, even good 5.1 is not as common as we would like. 7.1 can help with a big room by distributing the surround soundstage, but it isn't going to do much in a smaller room like yours (or mine @ 16x20)


----------



## newfmp3

One thing that frustrates me so far with this pj is that anything below -1 brightness crushes blacks. Coming from dlp, this pj is just not capable of the same blacks. Going back and forth between pj's the difference is quite noticeable. Matter of fact anything below -1 doesn't seem to actually make a difference to blacks anyways.


Any1 got any other tricks? I have tried al's settings as well.


----------



## dissonance79




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well $200.00 isn't where he's gonna wind up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You won't find that entire list of features on any Receiver under $499.00....unless it's a Refurb. Especially 4 HDMI inputs "and" Up Conversion
> 
> 
> Stick to what's familiar to you. Consider a SONY STR-DA2400es
> 
> 
> 100 wpc x 7
> 
> v.1.3 HDMI Switching w/4 HDMI Inputs
> 
> 1080p Up Conversion
> 
> Ultimate Compatibility with the PS3
> 
> 
> $599.00 retail Cut a Deal if you can. I have seen them go for / have gotten them for a bit under $499.00
> 
> 
> BTW, you might want to reconsider the Jamestown. Saving big on the PJ helps justify some leeway on the Receiver / Screen.
> 
> I'm just saying do a bit more research or ask for some specific advice from people who know and you'll almost always be the better for the effort.
> 
> 
> Good Hunting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MM.
> 
> 
> PS,
> 
> 
> Lottsa other good tips in there, jayn_j !



Have you ever seen a Jamestown in person? I'm wondering if you're cautioning based on the price or any first hand experience.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Favelle* /forum/post/19883472
> 
> 
> That's not the PS3 playing an MKV file. That's ANOTHER PC swapping the container type and re-saving in another format. The PS3 STILL isn't playing a native MKV.



True statement. I use this free MKV converter ( http://www.videohelp.com/tools/mkv2vob ). While converting, you can specify to break up into 4 GB chunks to avoid the FAT32 limitation. I just use a WD Passport drive on the USB port and they play great on the PS3. It should also work from a media server and the PS3 should be able to stream it form there. This is the best method I know of so far to do this.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dissonance79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Have you ever seen a Jamestown in person? I'm wondering if you're cautioning based on the price or any first hand experience.



I saw one here in TN a few days ago on an 8350 and I was pretty sold... I'm still new to PJ's, but my eyes see what they see, and it was extremely crisp! Not to mention the quality of the build was excellent for the price. I don't have the time or patience to mess with DIY screens/paints, so I think I'm going to move forward with Jamestown.


----------



## dissonance79




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I saw one here in TN a few days ago on an 8350 and I was pretty sold... I'm still new to PJ's, but my eyes see what they see, and it was extremely crisp! Not to mention the quality of the build was excellent for the price. I don't have the time or patience to mess with DIY screens/paints, so I think I'm going to move forward with Jamestown.



I'm planning to get one to replace my Gray Wolf pull down. I have a ceiling mount and the Gray Wolf doesn't seem to help. It's brighter when I stand and dims as I sit down. It also has some waves which I notice when the movie pans. Plus I find the sparkles to be very distracting. I feel it ruins the HD feel of everything. I hear the Jamestown shouldn't have these issues.


----------



## mjg100

Deleted.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
Should be a good screen. He is using an inner aluminum frame that has adjustable tension and a wood (hardwood plywood) wrapped with velvet for the outer frame.
Quote:

Originally Posted by *Joesyah* 
If this is the same as what I installed yesterday. I can tell ya it's not stable at all. The frame just came in last week. So I would think it is his newest frame. Time to go back to the drawing board on that one.


If the outer frame were 4 solid pieces instead of the top and bottom being 2 separate boards. The frame would be much sturdier and it wouldn't need that aluminum brace running up the center of the screen.


Moving this screen just once after an install can destroy it.


I can take my screen down by myself. Do that with the 130" Jamestown and chances are you'll have to buy another screen. It will fold and break apart in the center .
Either it is not the same screen or it is being misrepresented by Jamestown. An Aluminum center brace is not the same as an Aluminum inner frame.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Santi8* 
I have been reading these forums for hours and hours, and after weighing my options I think I have made my decision. We just moved into our new house and I have a nice bonus/dedicated theater room 17x12. There are 2 small windows that have blackout curtains so ambient light won't be an issue. Originally i was looking into a 55" 3D LED set, but the $3000 price tag went out the window once we moved into our house. The fiancé was much more responsive to the $1300 price tag on the 8350. I am planning on pairing it up with a 100" Jamestown white screen at around a 12ft throw. There will be two rows of theater seating with viewing distances of about 11 and 15 ft.


I am looking at receivers now to replace my outdated Sony. Looking to keep my costs low, but I'm not expecting to get a receiver for $100. What have people been running with the 8350 with good results. I will have PS3, 360, and comcast running through the receiver. I plan on 50% sports, 25% video games, 25% blue ray.


Am I on the right track, or is there more I should know?
With an 11' and 15' viewing distance, I would go with a larger screen. I would look at 110" myself. I use a 106" in a room that is 11.5' wide and a viewing distance of 10'-9". Many people make the mistake of getting too small a screen the first time. I would get the projector and use it on a bare wall for a couple of weeks, adjusting the image size to what you like. Keep in mind that the image will probably be brighter once you have your screen. This is assuming that you buy a screen with more than 1.0 gain.


----------



## mbs999

I have 3 components connected to my 8350, all via HDMI and through an Onkyo TX-SR608 AVR. The AVR is the only thing plugged into the projector and it is also connected via HDMI.


So, the projector just has a single HDMI cable plugged into it. However, this is weird. I've noticed that the projector kind of remembers what color mode each component uses. For example, if I switch the AVR to DirecTV, the projector switches to "Natural". If I switch the AVR to Xbox 360, the projector switches to "Dyanmic". If I switch the AVR to Playstation 3, the projector switches to "Cinema" b/c I mostly watch blu-rays on my PS3.


Is this normal behavior? I could see the projector remembering which input (HDMI1, HDMI2, Component, etc) uses which color mode. But everything is coming out of my AVR, so how does the projector distinguish between the 3 components connected through the AVR?


This is confusing to me.


----------



## jays_on

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
You won't find that entire list of features on any Receiver under $499.00....unless it's a Refurb. Especially 4 HDMI inputs "and" Up Conversion
I picked up the Sony STR-DH810 for $264 after a 12% off coupon from BB. Your mileage may very, but I've also seen it at amazon for around $250.


Just to name a few, it sports;

- 7.1 with "110" watts per channel

- 4 (v1.4) HDMI inputs & it's 3D ready

- Upconvert/Upscale from analog to 1080p via HDMI

- Dolby TrueHD and dts HD enhanced audio codecs


I retired my STR-DG810 for this and have been very happy with the upgrade. I'm not really sure what more you could want for the price.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
One thing that frustrates me so far with this pj is that anything below -1 brightness crushes blacks. Coming from dlp, this pj is just not capable of the same blacks. Going back and forth between pj's the difference is quite noticeable. Matter of fact anything below -1 doesn't seem to actually make a difference to blacks anyways.


Any1 got any other tricks? I have tried al's settings as well.
It may not help, but have you tried setting HDMI mode on the pj to Expanded? Then do your calibration.


After calibrating with the WOW disk, these are the basic settings I've been using.


cinema mode

hdmi mode *Expanded*

brightness -10

contrast 0 (up to +5)

saturation +1

6500k Color temp

Iris, ON

Gamma 2.4

Superwhite off

Quote:

Originally Posted by *supermoore1025* 
So is this projector consider 60hz or 120hz like tvs?
Even better, it supports 24hz. Most movies are filmed this way. To me there is no comparison between 24hz (with 2:2 pulldown on) vs 120hz. For tv, games and PC it supports 60hz.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19886297
> 
> 
> Either it is not the same screen or it is being misrepresented by Jamestown. An Aluminum center brace is not the same as an Aluminum inner frame.



It's an aluminum inner frame.

Search shoppingdeals member auctions on ebay.


----------



## undersinjake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgs* /forum/post/19851518
> 
> 
> This is one amazing projector. Incredibly bright and beautiful rich colours. When I talked to Quebec Acoustic before getting it they asked me what size screen I'd be using. I'm projecting a 90" diagonal picture on a wall painted with Goo Systems Digital Gray paint. That's the largest picture I can do. They said it will look like a plasma TV and it does! On my earlier two projectors, whenever I happened to turn my TV on to display the same thing my projector was running, the projector display would look grayed out and flat because the TV glowed so brightly. The other night I happened to turn my 42" LCD TV on while using the projector and the TV looked grayed out and flat compared with the projector. The wall just glows and that's in Cinema mode. I couldn't be more pleased with this projector.



That goo is cool never heard of it. Was it hard to apply? White level screen does it compare to? Anyone else try it?


----------



## dswdallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *undersinjake* /forum/post/19887178
> 
> 
> That goo is cool never heard of it. Was it hard to apply? White level screen does it compare to? Anyone else try it?



Check out the DIY Screen section on painted screens. There are a lot of options, some much better than GOO.. Good luck.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19886975
> 
> 
> It's an aluminum inner frame.
> 
> Search shoppingdeals member auctions on ebay.



I know that it says that it has an inner Aluminum frame. I was responding to the poster that said he installed one last week and it only had an Aluminum center support. Basically, I think he bought one of the older screens that was left over.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19887852
> 
> 
> I know that it says that it has an inner Aluminum frame. I was responding to the poster that said he installed one last week and it only had an Aluminum center support. Basically, I think he bought one of the older screens that was left over.



No the screen had metal bracing. The problem is the bottom at top frame is in two pieces. There are two metal bracings made to connect the separated wood frame. There's also a bracing that runs vertical from top to bottom. It took longer to receive the screen because they were backed up in orders. It is highly doubtful this is something left over.

Try one for yourself ...misery loves company.









I'm accustom to assembling four piece screen frames not six. The more segments you add the more flimsy something like this becomes. Hopefully his smaller screens come with just four frame pieces.


----------



## trolly

I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now and I just noticed while watching a movie that the lens appeared to have some dust on it so I got my microfiber lens cleaner and gently tried to wipe away the dust but most of it didn't move from the lens and appears to be permanent markings on the glass. I turned the projector off and inspected the lens and could not see the dust-like markings that I could with the projector on. I would really appreciate any thoughts or comments.


John


----------



## KevinHittle

Quick Question for you 8350 owners...I was just unpacking my unit and was wondering about the lens shift dials.


There are no lines to indicate home position (Straight image). Did you guys make a mark or anything to begin with? The reason I ask is that I am considering a corner mount since my room is small. And, if I adjust and don't care for it....what if I wanted to center mount it....do I just get the default back by adjusting?


Thanks in advance guys!


Kevin


***EDIT**** Never mind I found that there is a click in the middle positions


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19888388
> 
> 
> No the screen had metal bracing. The problem is the bottom at top frame is in two pieces. There are two metal bracings made to connect the separated wood frame. There's also a bracing that runs vertical from top to bottom. It took longer to receive the screen because they were backed up in orders. It is highly doubtful this is something left over.
> 
> Try one for yourself ...misery loves company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm accustom to assembling four piece screen frames not six. The more segments you add the more flimsy something like this becomes. Hopefully his smaller screens come with just four frame pieces.



I have three screens. Currently using two of them. Think I will stay with what I have. I do agree that six piece frames are not as sturdy as four piece frames and I would not be interested in that type of frame.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KevinHittle* /forum/post/19889225
> 
> 
> Quick Question for you 8350 owners...I was just unpacking my unit and was wondering about the lens shift dials.
> 
> 
> There are no lines to indicate home position (Straight image). Did you guys make a mark or anything to begin with? The reason I ask is that I am considering a corner mount since my room is small. And, if I adjust and don't care for it....what if I wanted to center mount it....do I just get the default back by adjusting?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance guys!
> 
> 
> Kevin
> 
> 
> ***EDIT**** Never mind I found that there is a click in the middle positions



You do not worry about getting the default back. Just move the projector back to center of the screen and adjust the lens shift as needed.


----------



## EJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19885428
> 
> 
> I saw one here in TN a few days ago on an 8350 and I was pretty sold... I'm still new to PJ's, but my eyes see what they see, and it was extremely crisp! Not to mention the quality of the build was excellent for the price. I don't have the time or patience to mess with DIY screens/paints, so I think I'm going to move forward with Jamestown.



As a Carada screen owner, I'm biased and admit I've never seen one of these screens. I would be interested to examine the screen at about the 10 year point. Just hearing about PVC and wood used raises red flags in my mind.


All I can say is I've had my 88" 1.0 gain screen for 8 years with no wrinkles or need for stretching. My dad has had a 94" with the same results.


I'm not starting an argument, as these screens are in a completely different price range. I just wanted to point out that in the world of screens, even the Carada is considered to be on the low end of the scale. All I can say is in my theater, I've never had to worry about the screen, or give it a second thought.


----------



## forkdeath

Had a 8350 for a few weeks returned it to bb and got a PT-AE4000, now I am going back to the 8350, hard to go back to a dimmer projector, and the picture is pretty darn good. I had to find out how that smooth screen tech looked, and frame creation, it is cool, I really liked the smooth screen, but just not worth the extra $$$ for me. Also it had darker blacks but the whole picture is darker.


The first thing my sons noticed, who watch often with me, was how much dimmer the 4000 was, I guess we just like a really bright picture. Not too much into 'the perfect picture'. We like it big and bold and maybe even just a little over-saturated. To each his own. This will be our projector until 3D is under 2k.


----------



## MelCarl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/19888388
> 
> 
> No the screen had metal bracing. The problem is the bottom at top frame is in two pieces. There are two metal bracings made to connect the separated wood frame. There's also a bracing that runs vertical from top to bottom. It took longer to receive the screen because they were backed up in orders. It is highly doubtful this is something left over.
> 
> Try one for yourself ...misery loves company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm accustom to assembling four piece screen frames not six. The more segments you add the more flimsy something like this becomes. Hopefully his smaller screens come with just four frame pieces.



I just spoke with the owner and manufacturer tonight. His new screens do have a rectangular aluminum square frame. The wood that goes on the front has the velvet covering. What you have is an older screen. You have one like I have owned for over two years (100"). I'm sure the new screen is much more rigid than what we have. The new aluminum frames have only been in production for several months. I still think it's a great value compared to other screens available. For a limited budget, it is certainly better than a painted wall. I have seen other screens costing twice as much that produced no better image.







(IMHO)


----------



## SmoothGS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19886434
> 
> 
> After calibrating with the WOW disk, these are the basic settings I've been using.
> 
> 
> cinema mode
> 
> hdmi mode *Expanded*
> 
> brightness -10
> 
> contrast 0 (up to +5)
> 
> saturation +1
> 
> 6500k Color temp
> 
> Iris, ON
> 
> Gamma 2.4
> 
> Superwhite off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even better, it supports 24hz. Most movies are filmed this way. To me there is no comparison between 24hz (with 2:2 pulldown on) vs 120hz. For tv, games and PC it supports 60hz.




Should I be doing the calibration for each color mode I use? Typically I use either Cinema, or Living room.

Thanks!


----------



## detroit1

amazing. I don't have the Wow Disc but I just set it by eye

I also use cinema, Iris, super white off; brightness turned down; and I have a DVDO video processor and I use the contrast up on that and the brightness turned down and use the fine detail controls


great picture; looks way more expensive than what it is


----------



## leaningjowler

Does anyone else get noise and dimming when they have no signal going to the projector?


Its not the same noise as when I switch from Dynamic to Living Room or other color modes that is more of a high pitched sound. I wouldn't say its a grinding noise but it doesn't sound very smooth.


----------



## trolly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/19895559
> 
> 
> Does anyone else get noise and dimming when they have no signal going to the projector?
> 
> 
> Its not the same noise as when I switch from Dynamic to Living Room or other color modes that is more of a high pitched sound. I wouldn't say its a grinding noise but it doesn't sound very smooth.



Mine does this as well...I assume it's normal. When your projector is on, does your lens appear to have small dust like spots on the lens?


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trolly* /forum/post/19895887
> 
> 
> Mine does this as well...I assume it's normal. When your projector is on, does your lens appear to have small dust like spots on the lens?



Yes if I look at the lens when it is on I do see what looks like small spots of dust on it.


----------



## MelCarl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/19897460
> 
> 
> Yes if I look at the lens when it is on I do see what looks like small spots of dust on it.



I see that on mine too...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trolly* /forum/post/19895887
> 
> 
> Mine does this as well...I assume it's normal. When your projector is on, does your lens appear to have small dust like spots on the lens?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/19897460
> 
> 
> Yes if I look at the lens when it is on I do see what looks like small spots of dust on it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MelCarl* /forum/post/19897472
> 
> 
> I see that on mine too...



It's called "Dust".







If the Lens is clean, it will not show any "spots" of any nature.


Unless one lives in a hermetically sealed room with multiple Hepa Filters, never uses the Central Heat & Air, never smokes, watches content naked, and is denuded of all hair, there will be dust and lint, and it WILL collect on a surface such as a lens...and be very noticeable when back lit by a "Sun-like" light source.


Just get a Lens Cloth specifically made for such use and carefully brush off the lens. Do not use compressed air, because you risk blowing dust into the PJ and into the Light Engine.


----------



## Lukedog17

A little confused here with the 8350. Can I get a 106" screen with around a 12' throw dist. Some calculators say yes and PC's calculator says no. Anyone here have something similar?


Luke


----------



## justinkwaugh

I am getting 110 at about 12'. But i have not measured exactly so that 12' is probably +-6"


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lukedog17* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A little confused here with the 8350. Can I get a 106" screen with around a 12' throw dist. Some calculators say yes and PC's calculator says no. Anyone here have something similar?
> 
> 
> Luke



I am getting 122" from exactly 12 feet away with the zoom all the way opened up. Only bummer is that the lens shift is limited and can't move further right without moving down. It's not centered over my entertainment center but it's not a big deal.


----------



## Lukedog17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/19897834
> 
> 
> I am getting 110 at about 12'. But i have not measured exactly so that 12' is probably +-6"





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19898030
> 
> 
> I am getting 122" from exactly 12 feet away with the zoom all the way opened up. Only bummer is that the lens shift is limited and can't move further right without moving down. It's not centered over my entertainment center but it's not a big deal.



Thnks guys, I was concerned I would have to have a smaller screen.

Gonna be ceiling mounting this as well.


Luke


----------



## rgs

I rolled the Goo on. Worked well and not hard.

R


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19886434
> 
> 
> cinema mode
> 
> hdmi mode *Expanded*
> 
> brightness -10
> 
> contrast 0 (up to +5)
> 
> saturation +1
> 
> 6500k Color temp
> 
> Iris, ON
> 
> Gamma 2.4
> 
> Superwhite off



Close to mine. Iris on full and ECO mode. But anything below -3 brightness and I lose black detail. PS3 as source. HDMI of course.


This is a decent pic for showing what I see. When things are set right you should see the numbers 1234. With brightness on -3, I only see the numbers 3 and 4.


Superwhite on, kills detail completely, loses all 4 numbers in pic.


What HDMI settings are your guys using on your PS3's? HDMI Limited, full, etc.there's a bunch under the display settings option on the ps3


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19886434
> 
> 
> 
> It may not help, but have you tried setting HDMI mode on the pj to Expanded? Then do your calibration.
> 
> 
> After calibrating with the WOW disk, these are the basic settings I've been using.
> 
> 
> cinema mode
> 
> hdmi mode *Expanded*
> 
> brightness -10
> 
> contrast 0 (up to +5)
> 
> saturation +1
> 
> 6500k Color temp
> 
> Iris, ON
> 
> Gamma 2.4
> 
> Superwhite off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even better, it supports 24hz. Most movies are filmed this way. To me there is no comparison between 24hz (with 2:2 pulldown on) vs 120hz. For tv, games and PC it supports 60hz.



Here is what I got for mine with WOW BR calibrations via PS3


Controlled light

cinema mode

hdmi mode *Auto* (missed this before will retry with expanded. its default to normal)

brightness -1

contrast 1

saturation 1

7500k Color temp

Iris, off

Gamma 2.2

Superwhite Off

Power mode Normal

Sharpness Standard


with ambient light and lights on

Living room mode

hdmi mode *Expanded*

brightness -7

contrast 12

saturation -2

9300k Color temp

Iris, off

Gamma 2.2

Superwhite off

Power Normal


want to try both again with expanded, super white and Iris on

have 283 hrs on bulb


----------



## trolly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trolly* /forum/post/19888544
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for a few weeks now and I just noticed while watching a movie that the lens appeared to have some dust on it so I got my microfiber lens cleaner and gently tried to wipe away the dust but most of it didn't move from the lens and appears to be permanent markings on the glass. I turned the projector off and inspected the lens and could not see the dust-like markings that I could with the projector on. I would really appreciate any thoughts or comments.
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19897567
> 
> 
> It's called "Dust".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the Lens is clean, it will not show any "spots" of any nature.
> 
> 
> Unless one lives in a hermetically sealed room with multiple Hepa Filters, never uses the Central Heat & Air, never smokes, watches content naked, and is denuded of all hair, there will be dust and lint, and it WILL collect on a surface such as a lens...and be very noticeable when back lit by a "Sun-like" light source.
> 
> 
> Just get a Lens Cloth specifically made for such use and carefully brush off the lens. Do not use compressed air, because you risk blowing dust into the PJ and into the Light Engine.



MississippiMan- above is my initial post with regard to the dust-like spots on my lens.....I tried to remove them with a lens cloth and cleaner but they do not wipe away...not visible with projector off but very much so with it on (when looking at the lens). I'm just trying to be sure my lens is within normal condition or if what I'm seeing shouldn't be there even with the projector on.


----------



## MississippiMan

If they have no texture/tactile feel, and seem embedded in the Lens, they are most likely air bubbles...defects in the Lens. I can state that in the 12 - 8350s I have encountered, none exhibited anything like that.


If in any manner the defects show up on the Screen, I'd say it warrants a replacement...so if there is that chance, it's better done asap.


..........or at least immediately the the Monday after the Super Bowl!!


----------



## eliwankenobi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19899142
> 
> 
> Close to mine. Iris on full and ECO mode. But anything below -3 brightness and I lose black detail. PS3 as source. HDMI of course.
> 
> 
> This is a decent pic for showing what I see. When things are set right you should see the numbers 1234. With brightness on -3, I only see the numbers 3 and 4.
> 
> 
> Superwhite on, kills detail completely, loses all 4 numbers in pic.
> 
> 
> What HDMI settings are your guys using on your PS3's? HDMI Limited, full, etc.there's a bunch under the display settings option on the ps3



Make sure you PS3 is set to output Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and that super white is ON on the PS3. With this settings you can enable super white on the Epson without crushing shadow detail and enhancing contrast a little bit.


if you output RGB limited, set it to Full and leave super white OFF on the Epson. Otherwise shadow detail will be crushed...Maybe that's what you are seeing. Also remember that the Epson does not show blacker than black bars...at least on DVE...


I just got Disney WOW and I have to try with that.


----------



## flyingvee

I'll chime in on mine; got it around Black Friday - nice enough projector. But blacks are nowhere near what I was led to expect from reviews. In a darkened room, on a grey screen, they still don't get black. Normally don't notice it, except on credits, and fade to black, but it is still just very dark gray.


Worse than that is the dust blob issue. My old Sanyo PLV-70 eventually developed a case of the blobs - after several thousand hours. The 8350 has been in a closed house, breathing filtered air for under 50 hours, yet already has one bigger than a softball on my 84" screen. Contacted Epson, they _might_ send me a new one - still waiting for the verdict. So much for "sealed" light engine.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *flyingvee* 
I'll chime in on mine; got it around Black Friday - nice enough projector. But blacks are nowhere near what I was led to expect from reviews. In a darkened room, on a grey screen, they still don't get black. Normally don't notice it, except on credits, and fade to black, but it is still just very dark gray.


Worse than that is the dust blob issue. My old Sanyo PLV-70 eventually developed a case of the blobs - after several thousand hours. The 8350 has been in a closed house, breathing filtered air for under 50 hours, yet already has one bigger than a softball on my 84" screen. Contacted Epson, they _might_ send me a new one - still waiting for the verdict. So much for "sealed" light engine.








Where did you get the idea that the light path was sealed????


----------



## gadget-zilla

I'm very interested in purchasing this projector.


I currently have an old projector (NEC LT240K) which is mounted on the wall.


Question: Similarly to LCD TVs, are mounting hole pattern pretty much same for all projectors ?


Essentially, I'm looking to just take down the NEC LT240K and install the Epson in its place. Due to the large size of Epson (in comparing to my NEC), I get the feeling that won't be the case.


If anyone who has upgraded from an older projector, like mine, and can provide some valuable feedback regarding this, that would be great.


Thanks in advance !!


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19901489
> 
> 
> Make sure you PS3 is set to output Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and that super white is ON on the PS3. With this settings you can enable super white on the Epson without crushing shadow detail and enhancing contrast a little bit.
> 
> 
> if you output RGB limited, set it to Full and leave super white OFF on the Epson. Otherwise shadow detail will be crushed...Maybe that's what you are seeing. Also remember that the Epson does not show blacker than black bars...at least on DVE...
> 
> 
> I just got Disney WOW and I have to try with that.



ok thanks, I'll try it tonight


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/19902232
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in purchasing this projector.
> 
> 
> I currently have an old projector (NEC LT240K) which is mounted on the wall.
> 
> 
> Question: Similarly to LCD TVs, *are mounting hole pattern pretty much same for all projectors ?*
> 
> 
> Essentially, I'm looking to just take down the NEC LT240K and install the Epson in its place. Due to the large size of Epson (in comparing to my NEC), I get the feeling that won't be the case.
> 
> 
> If anyone who has upgraded from an older projector, like mine, and can provide some valuable feedback regarding this, that would be great.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance !!



No.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/19902232
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in purchasing this projector.
> 
> 
> I currently have an old projector (NEC LT240K) which is mounted on the wall.
> 
> 
> Question: Similarly to LCD TVs, are mounting hole pattern pretty much same for all projectors ?
> 
> 
> Essentially, I'm looking to just take down the NEC LT240K and install the Epson in its place. Due to the large size of Epson (in comparing to my NEC), I get the feeling that won't be the case.
> 
> 
> If anyone who has upgraded from an older projector, like mine, and can provide some valuable feedback regarding this, that would be great.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance !!



There are five mounting points on it. You can use a 3 point mount or a 4 point mount. The longest stretch from hole to hole is 11.5". There is a drawing in the downloadable manual from Epson.com. The PJ is quite large. 17W"x15"Dx6"H at just under 16lbs if i remember correctly.


As for the black level comments, I agree, black is not the PJ's strong point and I am amazed at what the reviewers call excellent blacks. I've got mine a bit better, but it's nothing spectacular by any means. I'm not saying I am un happy with the PJ, just saying the blacks are not inky black or interstellar or whatever term you want to use. I've seen a lot worse, and a lot better.


----------



## wpgcabby

If you wanted inky blacks you should have bought a 8700ub, you get what you pay for.


----------



## flyingvee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19903054
> 
> 
> If you wanted inky blacks you should have bought a 8700ub, you get what you pay for.



I'll know better next time - I already HAVE inky blacks - with my Runco CRT, thank-you. But all the bulb reviewers have been raving, I wanted something for casual (sports) viewing, and pulled the trigger. The 8350 isn't bad - but any reviewer saying it has good blacks is lying thru his teeth.


mjg100 - thought I'd read that - part of the claim to have fixed the dust blob problem. Evidently, _*another*_ of my errors.










I take it I'm not allowed to be disappointed about anything on the 8350, just because I didn't spend 3k? So I should be happy about the slop in the manual lens shift? The fact that when adjusting it, you have to go past where you want, so it will drop back to the correct position? Its like the steering on a clapped out '63 Chevy Biscayne - you steer past where you want, and hope to end up in the right place.


Everything on the 8350 works; very little of it works well - at least on mine, the tolerances are very loose.


----------



## AndrJam

LCD Projectors do not used closed light engines, that is DLP projectors. Dust blobs are a weakness of the LCD design currently being employed. That said, it might be worse on this epson chassis than others out there. My Epson HC720 has not developed any so far and has several thousand hours. It one of the reasons I haven't yet purchased the Epson 8350 (but plan to shortly) --that and my current shelf won't fit it!


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingvee* /forum/post/19903213
> 
> 
> I take it I'm not allowed to be disappointed about anything on the 8350, just because I didn't spend 3k? So I should be happy about the slop in the manual lens shift? The fact that when adjusting it, you have to go past where you want, so it will drop back to the correct position? Its like the steering on a clapped out '63 Chevy Biscayne - you steer past where you want, and hope to end up in the right place.
> 
> 
> Everything on the 8350 works; very little of it works well - at least on mine, the tolerances are very loose.



No, you are certainly allowed to be disappointed, but on the other hand, you need to be disappointed IN PERSPECTIVE.


I am not happy with the sloppy lens shift either. I am not overjoyed with the 1 pixel panel misalignment. I have a couple of other issues as well. But it is what it is, a sub-$1500 projector and for me, it is the best of the current bunch. I can get a better projector that would solve all these issues, but not until I am committed enough to triple my budget. The other projectors at this price range have no lens shift at all, so a sloppy one is a win for my room.


You go to any thread about $1k projectors, be it Mitsu, Optoma or whatever and you will see long strings of complaints about the shortcomings of that projector as well. It comes down to what tradeoffs you are willing to accept. If you can't handle sloppy lens shift, go with the Mitsu and deal with rainbows, keystone and lockup issues.


----------



## dissonance79

I typically only use the lens shift once over the course of the projector. I'm not willing to pay more to save 5 minutes or less.


----------



## scotty562

I searched the thread for upscale and upscaling in this thread and a few people asked questions about it, but I didn't see any answers. What I'd like to know is if the 8350 does upscaling. I have one right now and I just ordered a dht-591ba. I'm curious if the 8350 will upscale/upconvert whatever the correct term is the video to 1080p so I don't have the black bars when playing wii. If it doesn't, I may need to upgrade to the 791.


----------



## jaydillyo

Yes the 8350 will upscale. If you get black bars playing Wii then the Wii is set up wrong. There is an aspect ratio setting in the Wii that should be set to 16:9 not 4:3.


-- jaydillyo


----------



## akrasna

On one of my devices into my 8350 there is a significant sound-picture mismatch. (it is a media player)


I don't yet have a receiver which I hope will be able to help with the delay ..

so I wanted to know if there is any setting on the 8350 which can help in terms of this.


Thanks

Allen


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/19895559
> 
> 
> Does anyone else get noise and dimming when they have no signal going to the projector?
> 
> 
> Its not the same noise as when I switch from Dynamic to Living Room or other color modes that is more of a high pitched sound. I wouldn't say its a grinding noise but it doesn't sound very smooth.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trolly* /forum/post/19895887
> 
> 
> Mine does this as well...I assume it's normal.



Its the Iris. You can turn it off if you don't like the sound and/or look.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19899142
> 
> 
> Close to mine. Iris on full and ECO mode. But anything below -3 brightness and I lose black detail. PS3 as source. HDMI of course.
> 
> 
> Superwhite on, kills detail completely, loses all 4 numbers in pic.
> 
> 
> What HDMI settings are your guys using on your PS3's? HDMI Limited, full, etc.there's a bunch under the display settings option on the ps3



I seem to be able to go darker on brightness without as much crush on blacks with the pj set to Expanded & Superwhite off. I set the ps3 to Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and "HDMI full".



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingvee* /forum/post/19903213
> 
> 
> So I should be happy about the slop in the manual lens shift? The fact that when adjusting it, you have to go past where you want, so it will drop back to the correct position? Its like the steering on a clapped out '63 Chevy Biscayne - you steer past where you want, and hope to end up in the right place.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dissonance79* /forum/post/19903468
> 
> 
> I typically only use the lens shift once over the course of the projector. I'm not willing to pay more to save 5 minutes or less.



I was pretty disappointing with the lens shift as well, however, I believe it was a poster on this thread that said it is actually better than other brands they had used. Like *dissonance79* said, I'd rather save a few bucks than have ferrari performance lens shift. If we thought there was a better option in this price range, I guess we'd be in that thread.


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19903953
> 
> 
> On one of my devices into my 8350 there is a significant sound-picture mismatch. (it is a media player)
> 
> 
> I don't yet have a receiver which I hope will be able to help with the delay ..
> 
> so I wanted to know if there is any setting on the 8350 which can help in terms of this.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allen



There is nothing built in. Sounds delay correction needs to be done by your receiver.


----------



## Vao

I'm planning to build DIY 2.35 screen and buy 8350. I know that the most people are suggesting Mits HC4000 for CIH, i know it's not very convenient if the Pj's is ceiling mounted but these things doesnt change my choice.


My room is 13'x17'. The screen will be aprox. 137,1" width which is around 150" diagonal. I need to know does 8350 will be able to throw for such a big screen from only 17'. And if so where is the perfect distance for 150" 2.35 screen using 8350 ?










Thanks


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19904336
> 
> 
> I'm planning to build DIY 2.35 screen and buy 8350. I know that the most people are suggesting Mits HC4000 for CIH, i know it's not very convenient if the Pj's is ceiling mounted but these things doesnt change my choice.
> 
> 
> My room is 13'x17'. The screen will be aprox. 137,1" width which is around 150" diagonal. I need to know does 8350 will be able to throw for such a big screen from only 17'. And if so where is the perfect distance for 150" 2.35 screen using 8350 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



In your case I would look at projectors that have power lens shift and power zoom. Might take a look at the Viewsonic Pro8100. Has better black levels and can be purchased for less money. Some of them have a banding issue and have to be exchanged though, but does come with 3yr. warranty.


----------



## Santi8

Is it even worth going with a 2.35:1 with the 8350?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19904633
> 
> 
> Is it even worth going with a 2.35:1 with the 8350?



It would not be worth it to me, especially if ceiling mounted.


----------



## flyingvee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19904633
> 
> 
> Is it even worth going with a 2.35:1 with the 8350?



fwiw, that was one of the surprising high points for me; took it up to my main theater, with 12' wide 2.35 screen, just to see what would happen. Had to move the projector farther back than I would have expected (no - didn't check the chart, and it did work - was just surprised) - but it did a very good job.


Shifting back and forth between 2.35:1 and 16:9 would probably be more work than its worth - since lens shift is not ideal; (ferrrari, I guess, from previous posters) - but it did throw a very good picture in my light controlled room.


Watched 5th Element on BD, at 1080p/24 - plenty of light output, tho of course, I did *not* have eco mode on. Was actually able to see the film grain - the blacks weren't that close to my crt's, but my crt doesn't do 2.25.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingvee* /forum/post/19904838
> 
> 
> fwiw, that was one of the surprising high points for me; took it up to my main theater, with 12' wide 2.35 screen, just to see what would happen. Had to move the projector farther back than I would have expected (no - didn't check the chart, and it did work - was just surprised) - but it did a very good job.
> 
> 
> Shifting back and forth between 2.35:1 and 16:9 would probably be more work than its worth - since lens shift is not ideal; (ferrrari, I guess, from previous posters) - but it did throw a very good picture in my light controlled room.
> 
> 
> Watched 5th Element on BD, at 1080p/24 - plenty of light output, tho of course, I did *not* have eco mode on. Was actually able to see the film grain - the blacks weren't that close to my crt's, but my crt doesn't do 2.25.



and what was the throw distance to cover this 12' screen?


----------



## flyingvee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19904933
> 
> 
> and what was the throw distance to cover this 12' screen?



Would have to go back and measure for you tonite - probably over 15. Maybe 20'? Will measure, get back to you.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingvee* /forum/post/19905202
> 
> 
> Would have to go back and measure for you tonite - probably over 15. Maybe 20'? Will measure, get back to you.



thanks


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/19904933
> 
> 
> and what was the throw distance to cover this 12' screen?



Using a throw calculator, it would be in the 16' to 34' range.


----------



## audvid

i have a faint vertical stripe overlay on the picture.. it appears and dissapears.. they are kind of diagonal lines actually.. all over the picture..

I am feeding from DVR to projector direct hdmi

this is a brand new projector..

i might be able to exchange it at best buy..

I just wanted to check in before I do so.. is this a known problem?

There are 51 pages on this thread.. sorry.. I didn't read the prior pages..

thanks..



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19843575
> 
> 
> 1. Have tried using a different source such as a DVD/blu-ray player?
> 
> 2. Swapped out the HDMI cable?
> 
> 3. Tried the other HDMI input on the projector?



The vertical bands actually show up even without signal.. if you use a blue backgound screen.. I have tried 3 projectors.. Epson sent me a replacement and that also has it..

I finally gave up and decided to keep it.. Not much else I can do.. but Is anyone else not seeing this? What am I missing?


----------



## Davinleeds

Three? Can you try it in a different environment?


----------



## PeterF

If they are horizontal I would suggest that they might be hum bars, but vertical bars...maybe a cable problem.


----------



## leaningjowler




jays_on said:


> Its the Iris. You can turn it off if you don't like the sound and/or look.
> 
> 
> I don't think the sound I am hearing is the iris. It doesn't make this sound while watching any content just when there is no signal coming in or when its starting up. Last time I checked the iris was off on most of my modes.


----------



## Bdex75

Ok, so I am completely new to the projector game. I am building a theater in my walkout basement, it has a 6' window and a 6' patio door. I am 75% framed out with the electrical and most of the insulation (spray foam and r30 in 2 x 6 walls) done. The rest of the basement/ game room is being finished at the same time. After reading all of the reviews I believe this may be the projector for me. It will be mounted on the ceiling (8 ft high), 15 feet from the screen/wall and I will probably go with a 106 or a 120 image. From what I read this will be fine. My question is this.......mounting the projector.

Since this is a "new construction" build out I was going to build a fixed shelf or box on the ceiling for the projector to sit on rather than buying a mount or using the one that comes in the package on visual apex.

If I build a box to house the projector in, do I need to leave the back or sides open for cooling? Or can I enclose completely other than the front?

My a/v closet is going to be about 6' to the left of the projector and i will be using a pioneer elite avr to switch my hdmi sources.


And last question, is the "package" on visual apex worth the $, or should I just project it on to a smooth flat white wall??


Thanks for the help in advance and I look forward to posting pics of the finished product and reporting out on my project.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19901489
> 
> 
> Make sure you PS3 is set to output Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and that super white is ON on the PS3. With this settings you can enable super white on the Epson without crushing shadow detail and enhancing contrast a little bit.
> 
> 
> if you output RGB limited, set it to Full and leave super white OFF on the Epson. Otherwise shadow detail will be crushed...Maybe that's what you are seeing. Also remember that the Epson does not show blacker than black bars...at least on DVE...
> 
> 
> I just got Disney WOW and I have to try with that.




RGB Limited and Superwhite Off. I can get down to -13 brightness before crushing blacks.


RGB Full - Superwhite Off, maybe -3 before crushed blacks. Superwhite on kills blacks, no detail


On the PJ - HDMI Enhanced seems better then HDMI Normal


Between RGM Limited/Full, there doesn't seem to be much of a difference in the "black being black" once I adjust the brightness. But with RGB Limited, I can see a little more detail due to less crushed blacks. I share the PS3 between my Epson and Panasonic Plasma which doesn't like RGB on full anyways so maybe I'll leave it on Limited. Most of my content is not blu-ray and mkv's ripped onto PC streamed via tversity. I set Blu Ray to Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr and will try tonight. Just too tired by the time I got most things done last night. Bad Winter storms here too causing power to fluctuate at times so I am obviously not using projector during this.


I'm getting more content with the blacks as I play with it more and as bulb is breaking in. Fired up the old 4805 last night on the same screen, that has ~1300 hrs on it, surprisingly it's Cinema/eco mode and the New Epson's Cinema in Eco Mode aren't much different in brightness. The Epson a touch brighter once Calibrated to my liking but not drastically. Obviously with the Epson's other modes it goes MUCH brighter when needed. But seeing 480p on a PJ after looking at 1080p in it's glory.....man, how did I do it before?


----------



## akrasna

Hopefully Sunday will be the day that I actually mount my projector and screen I built for my 8350 (1.3gain).


If you remember me from many pages ago - I do not have a theater - but for strange reasons will be using my projector as my main TV - in the Living room - so even though I can make it quite dark for movies etc .. I will also need to use it with a decent amount of ambient light.


Because of this I need to keep the projector quite close to the screen.


I have attached some pictures in this link to give the layout of the room.
http://www.krasnadigital.com/pix4proj.html 


According to the calculator (screen size below)- the closest distance I can be (and please tell me if it is bad to go to the max position) is 7 feet. This is with the full 2.11 Zoom. (If I need to move back for a better picture less zoom - what is the tradeoff with the brightness)


By the way, do I count 7 ft distance going straight ahead (i.e. without the lens shift) or do I measure from the mount diagonally down to the center of screen?


To make my wife happy I want to place the projector to the left of the fan looking from behind -closer to the window/wall (from the first picture) - even though if I went to the right of the fan it would be a more direct line to the center of the screen. (but given what I am doing to her living room I figure I will give her this - if I can use the shift to get the screen working right.)


I keep reading the manual about how much shift I can do etc. and that if I use some shift 1 way I can't use et another - but still not 100% sure - I wish the calculator also did shift calculations.


The Screen is ( it is 4:3 even though most of what I will be watching will be 16:9)

Approx 47 long by 35 high (not exact since it is really in meters 1.2 and .9 with 1.5 diagonal ) for about a 58 inch screen

*Height*


If I keep the screen approx where it is now, just straighter and not leaning and not with tape. Then the top of the screen will be15 from the ceiling


If I mount the projector without extensions then my projector will start 3.2 inches from the ceiling according to the picture in the projector manual I add another 2.8 inches from the bottom to the middle of the lens - 6 - this means (without an extension) I will have

27 from the middle of my lens to the middle of my screen

35/2 = approx 18 15-6=9 9+18 = 27


So I will need to shift down 27 - which I think according to page14 of the manual is OK.

*Side to Side shift*


Looking at the last picture in my link - it is taken right under where I would like to be able to mount it.


As you can see I am very over to the left. And about 7-8 feet away


From what I read, in terms of install I should mount the project perpendicular to the screen - EVEN IF IT MEANS POINTING before the lens shift not at the middle of the screen but way to the left. Correct?


I can't do an exact measurement but I probably will need to shift over about 24 left to right (or 50% of the image)


Is this too much? Am I shifting more than allowed?


From what I understand - tilting the projector so it is not perpendicular and then using Keystoning to straighten it - is not recommended (in fact I don't think the projector even allows keystoning)



Any insights or ideas (taking both my wife and the fan in the middle of the ceiling into account.) would be appreciated .


If I use an extension pole to drop the screen to another 7-10 inches then my up down shift is less and maybe I can shift more -


If I can't do it the way I originally want I may give my wife a choice (ha) between - a pole dropping the projector down and having the projecot more in the middle of the living room.


Thanks for all your help and hope to report back not only on the installation - but how well this projector can work as a primary TV is a lit room.


----------



## audvid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterF* /forum/post/19907710
> 
> 
> If they are horizontal I would suggest that they might be hum bars, but vertical bars...maybe a cable problem.



Perhaps you missed my comment that the vertical bands show up even without a signal, with the blue background?


----------



## Santi8

Got my tax return this morning... Looking to pull the trigger on the 8350. If I purchased today, does anybody know where I could score the best price. Also if anybody has any good coupons, please post. I plan on ordering asap!


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19908128
> 
> 
> Since this is a "new construction" build out I was going to build a fixed shelf or box on the ceiling for the projector to sit on rather than buying a mount or using the one that comes in the package on visual apex.
> 
> If I build a box to house the projector in, do I need to leave the back or sides open for cooling? Or can I enclose completely other than the front?
> 
> My a/v closet is going to be about 6' to the left of the projector and i will be using a pioneer elite avr to switch my hdmi sources.



The projector needs to breathe. On the 8350, the air intake is in the back and the outlet is on the front. You need a good air path to both or the unit will overheat. Does the box need to be completely open? Probably not. I have seen setups that were completely encased in soffets or angled out of the ceiling, but in all cases, a path for airflow was created. It could be as simple as leaving the back open and covering with GOM fabric or speaker cloth.


BTW, I agree about the shelf over the mount. I put a mount up and was very unhappy about how much the projector shook and how easily it went out of adjustment. Yanked it out and went with a shelf on the rear wall.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19908128
> 
> 
> And last question, is the "package" on visual apex worth the $, or should I just project it on to a smooth flat white wall??



A screen is complicated. There are two forums here dedicated to screen choice and techniques. You probably should project on a white wall for a bit to get a feel for desired size and to see which particular problems you may need to solve. There is also a lot of folk knowlege on building or painting your own screen in the DIY forum. $$ vs effort, both can produce good results.


The VA screen is a fixed vinyl screen and there are a dozen comparable choices out there for around $250-350 in 120" size. I guess I'd just buy the projector and decide the screen on its merits.


----------



## ncarty97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19908970
> 
> 
> Hopefully Sunday will be the day that I actually mount my projector and screen I built for my 8350 (1.3gain).
> 
> 
> If you remember me from many pages ago - I do not have a theater - but for strange reasons will be using my projector as my main TV - in the Living room - so even though I can make it quite dark for movies etc .. I will also need to use it with a decent amount of ambient light.
> 
> 
> Because of this I need to keep the projector quite close to the screen.
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help and hope to report back not only on the installation - but how well this projector can work as a primary TV is a lit room.



Looking forward to reading this. I'm trying to put a projector in a room with a decent amount of ambient light and wondering if this will work. Quick question though, how does moving the projector closer to the screen increase the brightness?


----------



## wpgcabby

Take a flashlight and shine it against the wall, then move closer. Same concept.

Ambient light will not be a problem, just make sure to get the proper screen for your situation.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19910222
> 
> 
> Take a flashlight and shine it against the wall, then move closer. Same concept.



Different concept, because the projector image is brighter when closer while maintaining the image size (unlike the flashlight analogy where it makes a brighter but smaller spot as you move closer). The lens is more efficient with a wider light cone, the way camera zoom lenses have a smaller f-number at the wide angle end of their range.


----------



## wpgcabby

When I move mine closer to the screen it appears brighter, guess my eyes are playing tricks on me.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

I'm agreeing that it gets brighter, just saying your analogy with the flashlight only applies if you leave the zoom setting constant and therefore get a smaller image. But even if you change the zoom to keep the image size the same, you still have a brighter image with the PJ closer to the screen.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hopefully Sunday will be the day that I actually mount my projector and screen I built for my 8350 (1.3gain).
> 
> 
> If you remember me from many pages ago - I do not have a theater - but for strange reasons will be using my projector as my main TV - in the Living room - so even though I can make it quite dark for movies etc .. I will also need to use it with a decent amount of ambient light.
> 
> 
> Because of this I need to keep the projector quite close to the screen.
> 
> 
> I have attached some pictures in this link to give the layout of the room.
> http://www.krasnadigital.com/pix4proj.html
> 
> 
> According to the calculator (screen size below)- the closest distance I can be (and please tell me if it is bad to go to the max position) is 7 feet. This is with the full 2.11 Zoom. (If I need to move back for a better picture less zoom - what is the tradeoff with the brightness)
> 
> 
> By the way, do I count 7 ft distance going straight ahead (i.e. without the lens shift) or do I measure from the mount diagonally down to the center of screen?
> 
> 
> To make my wife happy I want to place the projector to the left of the fan looking from behind -closer to the window/wall (from the first picture) - even though if I went to the right of the fan it would be a more direct line to the center of the screen. (but given what I am doing to her living room I figure I will give her this - if I can use the shift to get the screen working right.)
> 
> 
> I keep reading the manual about how much shift I can do etc. and that if I use some shift 1 way I can't use et another - but still not 100% sure - I wish the calculator also did shift calculations.
> 
> 
> The Screen is ( it is 4:3 even though most of what I will be watching will be 16:9)
> 
> Approx 47 long by 35 high (not exact since it is really in meters 1.2 and .9 with 1.5 diagonal ) for about a 58 inch screen
> 
> 
> Height
> 
> 
> If I keep the screen approx where it is now, just straighter and not leaning and not with tape. Then the top of the screen will be15 from the ceiling
> 
> 
> If I mount the projector without extensions then my projector will start 3.2 inches from the ceiling according to the picture in the projector manual I add another 2.8 inches from the bottom to the middle of the lens - 6 - this means (without an extension) I will have
> 
> 27 from the middle of my lens to the middle of my screen
> 
> 35/2 = approx 18 15-6=9 9+18 = 27
> 
> 
> So I will need to shift down 27 - which I think according to page14 of the manual is OK.
> 
> 
> Side to Side shift
> 
> 
> Looking at the last picture in my link - it is taken right under where I would like to be able to mount it.
> 
> 
> As you can see I am very over to the left. And about 7-8 feet away
> 
> 
> From what I read, in terms of install I should mount the project perpendicular to the screen - EVEN IF IT MEANS POINTING before the lens shift not at the middle of the screen but way to the left. Correct?
> 
> 
> I can't do an exact measurement but I probably will need to shift over about 24 left to right (or 50% of the image)
> 
> 
> Is this too much? Am I shifting more than allowed?
> 
> 
> From what I understand - tilting the projector so it is not perpendicular and then using Keystoning to straighten it - is not recommended (in fact I don't think the projector even allows keystoning)
> 
> 
> Any insights or ideas (taking both my wife and the fan in the middle of the ceiling into account.) would be appreciated .
> 
> 
> If I use an extension pole to drop the screen to another 7-10 inches then my up down shift is less and maybe I can shift more -
> 
> 
> If I can't do it the way I originally want I may give my wife a choice (ha) between - a pole dropping the projector down and having the projecot more in the middle of the living room.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help and hope to report back not only on the installation - but how well this projector can work as a primary TV is a lit room.



There are tons of telescopic mounts, and you can get pretty Long lengths. Peerless makes some, I have one works well.


Goto epson.com there is another image calculator and allows you to see the max image shift. Go to the 8350's product page and downloads for it.


This projector plus. A dalite high power screen in living room or dynamic mode is pretty darn bright. High gain screen is what you want, the new high power is 2.4 gain. You will sacrifice some blacks for a brighter image. The high power has some pretty tight projector placement requirements though. Yu need to visit the screens section for more info. Start ordering screen samples, and get the screen AFTER you get the projector so you can shoot the samples with your pj and get a good feel for it.


I am a little perplexed though. This is a budget projector. Using any pj as a main tv is not going to be cheap. You are going to go through bulbs quickly. Have you considered led pj's like the casio?


Keep the pj level, keystone is bad bad bad


----------



## Santi8

Walked out the door at Hhgregg for $1,136.90 after tax with an 8350 in my arms.


Just projecting onto a white wall blows my mind. Looks fantastic!


----------



## jays_on

I have had my pj mounted for a couple days now and wanted to post an update on the monoprice mount . Long story short, I am very happy with it for the money spent. That does not mean it is free of quirks. At first I wasn't sure it was going to work, but I found a workaround as you will find in picture 4. (And yes the photos are pretty bad!) It is a little tricky to explain but pretty simple to implement.


The disc that holds the 3 arms is kind of flimsy. With this mount design the pj is "top heavy" (towards the lens side) because there is only 1 arm on the front. Causing it to sag, thus adding unwanted keystone. However you can mount the front arm on top of the disc to compensate for the sagging, while leaving the 2 rear arms underneath. It was just enough to level out the image. The mount looks pretty good and does feel sturdy enough.


The last pic is my poor mans alternative to buying tracks, or cutting into the wall to run wires. Its 2 pieces of siding (that goes around a window I think) put together. I have read you should keep your power cable separate from your a/v cables. So this worked out well as I was able to run my power and hdmi in separate tubes. I found it while wondering around Lowes. They were like $4 a piece and 12' long which happened to be nearly the perfect length.
Attachment 199762 

Attachment 199764 

Attachment 199765 

Attachment 199766 

Attachment 199793 

_*↓Thanks sb1!*_


----------



## sb1

^ Comfy looking room, Jay.


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19912506
> 
> 
> Walked out the door at Hhgregg for $1,136.90 after tax with an 8350 in my arms.
> 
> 
> Just projecting onto a white wall blows my mind. Looks fantastic!



You are bragging as if you bought it for $800.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are bragging as if you bought it for $800.



Ok... Trying more to give praise to hhgregg on a good price beat.


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19913645
> 
> 
> Ok... Trying more to give praise to hhgregg on a good price beat.




how did you get them that low? the price is $1299 before tax on their site


----------



## Severum88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, so I am completely new to the projector game. I am building a theater in my walkout basement, it has a 6' window and a 6' patio door. I am 75% framed out with the electrical and most of the insulation (spray foam and r30 in 2 x 6 walls) done. The rest of the basement/ game room is being finished at the same time. After reading all of the reviews I believe this may be the projector for me. It will be mounted on the ceiling (8 ft high), 15 feet from the screen/wall and I will probably go with a 106 or a 120 image. From what I read this will be fine. My question is this.......mounting the projector.
> 
> Since this is a "new construction" build out I was going to build a fixed shelf or box on the ceiling for the projector to sit on rather than buying a mount or using the one that comes in the package on visual apex.
> 
> If I build a box to house the projector in, do I need to leave the back or sides open for cooling? Or can I enclose completely other than the front?
> 
> My a/v closet is going to be about 6' to the left of the projector and i will be using a pioneer elite avr to switch my hdmi sources.
> 
> 
> And last question, is the "package" on visual apex worth the $, or should I just project it on to a smooth flat white wall??
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help in advance and I look forward to posting pics of the finished product and reporting out on my project.



I am happy with my VA screen. Went together well, perfectly smooth. Happy with the pic quality. Customer service second to none. Would definitely suggest a screen over an untreated wall.


Sev


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> how did you get them that low? the price is $1299 before tax on their site



I had the 12% off coupon from best buy's $1299. The sales rep first matched Visual Apex's $1199 then took 12% off that and beat that price. I don't know if he was supposed to or not, but he almost sold me a $799 sound system for $625, so I assume they just wanted to make sales. Either way, I'm happy and will definitely be returning to hhgregg.


----------



## masterren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19914891
> 
> 
> I had the 12% off coupon from best buy's $1299. The sales rep first matched Visual Apex's $1199 then took 12% off that and beat that price. I don't know if he was supposed to or not, but he almost sold me a $799 sound system for $625, so I assume they just wanted to make sales. Either way, I'm happy and will definitely be returning to hhgregg.



hhgregg is a store where you must haggle or you won't be getting a good deal. When I went to buy mine, the guy kinda expected me to ask for a lower price. And when they ring you up, they don't even scan the UPC. They type the price in manually.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masterren* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hhgregg is a store where you must haggle or you won't be getting a good deal. When I went to buy mine, the guy kinda expected me to ask for a lower price. And when they ring you up, they don't even scan the UPC. They type the price in manually.



It was fantastic! Did not see that coming when I walked in...


----------



## SonyCrusader

I guess I'm in the club since I finally decided to go FP and the 8350 price/performance seems really good.


still need a good screen.


Anyway, my LCOS displays (Sony SXRD) also can't hit a good deep black. After vivisection, the optics block seems really subject to light leaks and "cross-contamination." My solution would be to put a high-quality ND (neutral density) filter in the final output optics path. The theory is sort of like audio noise reduction... raise signal levels, then filter objectionals at the output stage. Of course, that only works if the noise floor is stable and doesn't modulate with program content. On the Sony, it a choice of opening the optics block (which I can do with no problem other than avoiding the pain-in-the-* factor) where a 30mm (?) would fit nicely in the "tunnel" between the final block lens and the output lens barrel assembly. The final-stage lens would need something like an 80mm and good filters that size run around $150 (can't remember...) and with the current concern over Sony's short-term failure potential I don't feel compelled to do it.


Could we do the same on the 8350 and re-cal levels to compensate?


----------



## TWM442766

About to buy the 8350. I'm looking to mount from the ceiling, and looking at the Chief RPA168. I plan on running my cables above the ceiling into a near by closest where all the equipment will be located. Anybody else using this mount? Is it hard to install? I figure I need some type of extra support above the drywall between the joist. Can any of you tell me the best way to do this or point me to another site? Do I need to order a ceiling plate too? My ceiling is 9ft high.


Thanks


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19912538
> 
> 
> The disc that holds the 3 arms is kind of flimsy. With this mount design the pj is "top heavy" (towards the lens side) because there is only 1 arm on the front. Causing it to sag, thus adding unwanted keystone. However you can mount the front arm on top of the disc to compensate for the sagging, while leaving the 2 rear arms underneath. It was just enough to level out the image. The mount looks pretty good and does feel sturdy enough.



I found that if you set the mounting arms a little back from the farthest setting, it is much sturdier and doesn't sag.











Here are the pics of my (temporary) mounting and the quirks/workarounds I found:


Note the long handled allen wrench (5/32) in the pic above. I highly recommend it for this installation. Once the projector is up, it will be essential for tightening the mount. You can either cut a small portion off the short end of the allen wrench with a dremel so you will be able to get it inbetween the projector and the mount plate, or you can use the spacers under the arms instead of on top (M4 screws are included with the mount to attach the projector so no need to purchase them):











Top mounting plate attached to ceiling/beam:











Short extention attached (adjust the mount bolts outward using counter clockwise turns to secure):











Mount projector (and again adjust the mount bolts outward using counter clockwise turns to secure).


Adjust the tilt/angle and then slip the allen wrench between the projector and mount to tighten. You will also need a small open ended wrench (I don't remember the size) to hold the nut in place above the plate. This can be reached through the hole in the back of the extention pipe:


----------



## vladd

Full mount pic (I'll post a real one when I'm done with the remodel):











All in all, this mount performs much better than the price would suggest.


----------



## ncarty97

Just picked up this projector this weekend. So far I am very impressed. I just set it up to test it. It's sitting at the back of our of our living room, so the wall we are projecting on is about 19 feet away. I haven't built my screen yet, so it's projecting onto a blank, beige wall. Screen area is set to about 110". We have a decent amount of ambient light that comes in from the windows (from the projector perspetive, the left wall is nothing but floor to ceiling windows and there is a bright street light right there, we have shades by they are practically transparent). Hooked it up to an old HD-A2 I had and set the output on the A2 to 1080i.



Obviously that is FAR from the ideal setup. Yet my wife and I we're very impressed. I hooked up the surround sound and she watched Serenity. At the end she asked me "Are you sure we even need a screen? This looks amazing!" Still going to do the screen of course though!


All in all, I am very happy right now!


----------



## akrasna

I am trying to use the 8350 as my main TV in the living room.

This means that my 9 year old watches for a bit in the morning.


My wife turns it on for an hour or so during the day and from 4pm till 11 - its prob watched by someone for 3-4 hours - but at diff times


For Bulb and projector longevity- should I be keeping it on even when not in use for and hour or so - to avoid the heat up and cool down of the bulb?


Did my mount yesterday - and tomorrow I hope to show the same picture in diff levels of ambient light to share my experience.


Thanks

Allen


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *vladd* 
Full mount pic (I'll post a real one when I'm done with the remodel):











All in all, this mount performs much better than the price would suggest.
Always nice to see another Ky. guy on here. There are so few here on AVS.


----------



## Bdex75

Thank for the reply. I am set up at 7'6" from the floor, 14.5' from screen wall.

I have been doing some reading and am going to buy just the projector for now. Going to project on a blank white wall, or try the paint on screen. Maybe even the behr paint silver with a little pearl added.

So I can setup this projector toThrow whatever screen size I wish? Do I use the zoom to do this, or is it a setting in the menu?


I need to read the manual, but have not downloaded it yet.


Thanks


----------



## jayn_j

Manual zoom ring on front of lens.


----------



## rgs

Bdex5, I suspect a grey wall will probably give you a better picture.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19925232
> 
> 
> Always nice to see another Ky. guy on here. There are so few here on AVS.



Yup










OT, but what part of KY?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19927107
> 
> 
> Yup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OT, but what part of KY?



Two hours south of Louisville. I live on Barren River Lake outside of Glasgow. Get up to Louisville often since my in-laws live in Oldham County.


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am trying to use the 8350 as my main TV in the living room.
> 
> This means that my 9 year old watches for a bit in the morning.
> 
> 
> My wife turns it on for an hour or so during the day and from 4pm till 11 - its prob watched by someone for 3-4 hours - but at diff times
> 
> 
> For Bulb and projector longevity- should I be keeping it on even when not in use for and hour or so - to avoid the heat up and cool down of the bulb?
> 
> 
> Did my mount yesterday - and tomorrow I hope to show the same picture in diff levels of ambient light to share my experience.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allen



Sounds pretty much like my situation. I've been turning mine off if I won't be using it for an hour. Trying to just do cartoons for 1-2 hrs in the am then sports/shows/movie for 4hrs at night limiting it to 2 power on/off per day.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19927348
> 
> 
> Two hours south of Louisville. I live on Barren River Lake outside of Glasgow. Get up to Louisville often since my in-laws live in Oldham County.



Yup, I know where abouts. I grew up in Trimble County myself but my wife's from Louisville and that's where we live now. Tried to buy a house in Oldham last year but it didn't work out.


----------



## gadget-zilla

Quick Question: On this projector (epson 8350) - does it allow a component input thru its VGA 15pin connector ?


I'm replacing an aging NEC LT240K and it allows that capability.


if anyone can confirm that be true for the epson 8350, that would be very helpful.


Hopefully, I won't the need to buy and run another component cable.


Thanks


----------



## Munkee Boy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19928481
> 
> 
> Yup, I know where abouts. I grew up in Trimble County myself but my wife's from Louisville and that's where we live now. Tried to buy a house in Oldham last year but it didn't work out.



Another Louisvillian and happy Epson 8350 owner here. Bought mine 2 weeks back to replace an Optoma HD70. The new projector is WAY brighter and WAY bigger, I have it in a living room with 4 windows and lots of ambient light, and in the Living Room mode I can watch pretty comfortably during the day. Picture looks pretty good out of the box, but I haven't had time to tweak with the WOW disc yet.


----------



## akrasna

Here is my installation - is there a good way to hide/cover these cable. maybe some wrap cover ?


Thanks

Allen


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19927365
> 
> 
> Sounds pretty much like my situation. I've been turning mine off if I won't be using it for an hour. Trying to just do cartoons for 1-2 hrs in the am then sports/shows/movie for 4hrs at night limiting it to 2 power on/off per day.



The bulb is covered under warranty for 2 years or 4000 hours. I could care less about on|off cycles, so I turn it off when not using to help keep under the 4000 hours.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19930200
> 
> 
> The bulb is covered under warranty for 2 years or 4000 hours. I could care less about on|off cycles, so I turn it off when not using to help keep under the 4000 hours.



A lamp strike (projector start up) is generally considered 2hrs of lamp usage. So if you start your projector 2,000 times and did not run for a minute each time, it will just about be the same as actually running the projector for 4,000 hrs. In other words a lot of on/off cycle time will kill the lamp quicker.


----------



## gadget-zilla

I'll be using two 50' cables - one for component and the other for HDMI.


It would be great to get recommendations for cables that work best with the 8350. In sifting through some previous posts, I recall reading some folks having problems using longer runs of cables.


Cable prices at the big box stores are way too expensive but cables offered by monoprice dot com seem very reasonable and the reviews seem very favorable on their site.


Thank you.


----------



## akrasna

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
A lamp strike (projector start up) is generally considered 2hrs of lamp usage. So if you start your projector 2,000 times and did not run for a minute each time, it will just about be the same as actually running the projector for 4,000 hrs. In other words a lot of on/off cycle time will kill the lamp quicker.
so if I want the lamp to last longer - don't shut it off for less than 2 hours. But if I want to be able to have it covered under warantee longer (more neto hour of viewing) then shut it off more.. does that sound right?


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *akrasna* 
so if I want the lamp to last longer - don't shut it off for less than 2 hours. But if I want to be able to have it covered under warantee longer (more neto hour of viewing) then shut it off more.. does that sound right?
Are you really going to use your projector for 5.5 hours a day for all 730 days of the warranty period?


5.5 x 730 = 4,015 hours


If you take a 2 week vacation each year then you are close to 5-3/4 hours per day. I just do not think you are going to get there unless you are home a lot during the day and turn the projector on like a TV and leave it on.


----------



## akrasna

I will let you know in about 2 months how much my kids are using it










Thanks

Allen


----------



## wpgcabby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
A lamp strike (projector start up) is generally considered 2hrs of lamp usage. So if you start your projector 2,000 times and did not run for a minute each time, it will just about be the same as actually running the projector for 4,000 hrs. In other words a lot of on/off cycle time will kill the lamp quicker.
My point is the bulb is covered under warranty, if it blows during the 2 years it is replaced for free. If I leave the unit on it takes away from the hour counter once you go over 4000 hours the warranty is void. For me it makes sense to turn it off when not using it so you don't waste the warranty. I've had mine for a little over a month and already have over 700 hours!


----------



## heyman421

I think the sooner you can let go of all those little worries, the sooner you can truly enjoy something.


It's like people who buy a slick new phone and put it ugly rubber diapers and a screen protector that makes the screen streaky and effects the touch sensitivity.


Think about the epson lcd projectors at businesses, schools, and universities.


They're used all day long by alternating groups of people who don't give one single damn about the wellbeing of the projector, it's bulb, or on-off cycles and they're doing fine.


----------



## AndrJam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19931711
> 
> 
> My point is the bulb is covered under warranty, if it blows during the 2 years it is replaced for free. If I leave the unit on it takes away from the hour counter once you go over 4000 hours the warranty is void. For me it makes sense to turn it off when not using it so you don't waste the warranty. I've had mine for a little over a month and already have over 700 hours!



700 hours







That's like ~20 hours a day! I put 800 hours on my HC720 several years ago in 6 months and thought I was using it too much







I drop a screen in front of a plamsa when using the PJ, so the total time at least one of the displays is on is probably ~12 hours a day. But, that is with TV before the kids school, and gaming after school. Sadly, I get the room last to game or watch a movie


----------



## newfmp3

Personally I would not leave a heat source such as a projector left un-attended.


Call me crazy, but I'd just turn it off when not in use.


----------



## akrasna

Below is a link to a page that shows my projector with the same picture in the same room - with a tripod - with varying light sources.


A real life living room


Enjoy

Allen


http://www.krasnadigital.com/proj-lights.html


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19931711
> 
> 
> My point is the bulb is covered under warranty, if it blows during the 2 years it is replaced for free. If I leave the unit on it takes away from the hour counter once you go over 4000 hours the warranty is void. For me it makes sense to turn it off when not using it so you don't waste the warranty. I've had mine for a little over a month and already have over 700 hours!



700 hours in a month! That is insane. Let's say by a little over a month you mean 5 days. 700 / 35 = 20 hrs per day. Unless your projector is used for some type of business, I can't imagine someone watching that much of anything. That means within 7 months you would pretty much no longer have a bulp warranty. If I'm not mistaken the warranty is 4000hrs or 2 years--which ever comes first.


On a more serious note, what are you watching for 20 hrs a day?


----------



## gadget-zilla

Allen - Thank you for posting the screenshots. It gives me a real life perspective of an example installation. In my living room where I have my current projector, its not a total darkness situation. Seems that 8350 will supply ample brightness so the picture isn't a complete washout.


I'm in the final stages of completing my research. I'm 90% leaning towards the 8350. The other 10% leans towards 8700 UB.


When all is said and done, I too will post similar pictures, to help anyone who maybe considering a front projector as an option.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19932148
> 
> 
> Below is a link to a page that shows my projector with the same picture in the same room - with a tripod - with varying light sources.
> 
> 
> A real life living room
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> Allen
> 
> 
> http://www.krasnadigital.com/proj-lights.html


----------



## wpgcabby

I have a 2 year old daughter and Mom stays home during the day. Projector gets turned on around 7am and used the entire day. By the time I go to bed it is 11pm or so. Once I build the basement and move my SXRD back upstairs im sure the hours will go down










I've never been a garage queen, I like to use my stuff and don't worry about it breaking until it does!


----------



## gadget-zilla

Allen - Thank you for posting the screenshots. It gives me a real life perspective of an example installation. In my living room where I have my current projector, its not a total darkness situation. Seems that 8350 will supply ample brightness so the picture isn't a complete washout.


I'm in the final stages of completing my research. I'm 90% leaning towards the 8350. The other 10% leans towards 8700 UB.


When all is said and done, I too will post similar pictures, to help anyone who maybe considering a front projector as an option.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19932148
> 
> 
> Below is a link to a page that shows my projector with the same picture in the same room - with a tripod - with varying light sources.
> 
> 
> A real life living room
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> Allen
> 
> 
> http://www.krasnadigital.com/proj-lights.html


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wpgcabby* /forum/post/19932257
> 
> 
> I have a 2 year old daughter and Mom stays home during the day. Projector gets turned on around 7am and used the entire day. By the time I go to bed it is 11pm or so. Once I build the basement and move my SXRD back upstairs im sure the hours will go down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never been a garage queen, I like to use my stuff and don't worry about it breaking until it does!



ok. so it's being used as the main tv by multiple people. understood. I also like to use my toys but I'm a little cautious about abusing higher priced items. At any rate, your money your rules


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19932370
> 
> 
> ok. so it's being used as the main tv by multiple people. understood. I also like to use my toys but I'm a little cautious about abusing higher priced items. At any rate, your money your rules



It's only money, you can always make more







You should see what I do to my BMW


----------



## Guy Lucky

Hey Guys,

Old forum member here...

returning to the fray...


Had a Panny 700u that just bit the dust....

Blue panel out and then the lamp that I just bought in Oct 2010 quit...

Looking at getting an 8350 with the tax return...


Apologies for asking...

Where does it state that the "bulb" is covered for 2 years or 4000 hours???

Everything I'm seeing is "90 days"...

And the bulb life is "up to 4000 hours"...


Did anyone get an ext. warranty on the "bulb" ???


THX,

Guy Lucky


----------



## MississippiMan

Abusing "Higher Priced" items hardly applies to a $1200.00 PJ. Especially one whose Bulb is garranteed replaceable N/C for 2 years. (Epson released that info...to accomodate a rash of early Bulb failures in several Models. Check with your Retailer for comformation.)


Properly installed and maintined, a PJ such as the 8350 should last for many years even through daily use. And where else ya gonna get 100"s of as high a quality of HDTV for $1200.00?


If you get 3 years of such size & performance for $1200.00, well your doing ok "bargain-wise" IMO.


----------



## Guy Lucky

Soooo,

Is it only applicable to those bought before a certain date???


Does anyone know if this 2 year bulb warranty is still in effect???


Epson.com says 90 day "limited" bulb warranty...


This would TOTALLY seal the deal for me if it is indeed true...


THX,

Guy Lucky


----------



## MississippiMan

Simply call a Epson Dealer (Projector People) and make that specific inquiry.


Be prepared to buy.


----------



## ikecomp

Question to my fellow 8350 users. Is anyone out there using a dust cover for their pj (homemade or otherwise) and if otherwise where did you get it from? Also, is it worth it to have a dust cover? My projector will be on a side coffee table if that makes a difference.


----------



## gadget-zilla

VisualApex gives a dust cover free if you buy a projector through them. It claims to be a $29 value.


Perhaps, you can contact them to get more details. I was looking around their website but couldn't find any posted pictures of the item.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19933813
> 
> 
> Question to my fellow 8350 users. Is anyone out there using a dust cover for their pj (homemade or otherwise) and if otherwise where did you get it from? Also, is it worth it to have a dust cover? My projector will be on a side coffee table if that makes a difference.


----------



## jeancocteau

I've had the 8350 for about 3 months now, and it's great, but one thing that really starting to bother me is a bright blue strip down the right side edge and a bright red strip down the left side edge. Any area of high contrast in the image shows the same sort of discrepancy, with a thin red line and a thin blue line next to each other. This isn't supposed to be, correct?


----------



## Guy Lucky

Hey Guys,

I called PP and spoke to Rich the sales rep that I purchased my Panny 700 from...

He says that the bulb warranty is 90 days...


He also said that at one time, on some older models that had premature bulb failures, Epson had stepped up and made the warranty on those bulbs for 2 years...

But not for the 8350...


He has placed an e-mail to Epson to confirm...

*

Where did anyone hear that the bulb was warranted for 2 yrs on the 8350???*


This is a bummer for me and may be the end of my projector use...

for a time anyway...

55" LCD's are in the >1000 range now...

And no "bulb" to replace...


Sure wish I could find some documentation on this...

As mentioned before...

epson.com says 90 days



THX,

Guy Lucky


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19934956
> 
> 
> I've had the 8350 for about 3 months now, and it's great, but one thing that really starting to bother me is a bright blue strip down the right side edge and a bright red strip down the left side edge. Any area of high contrast in the image shows the same sort of discrepancy, with a thin red line and a thin blue line next to each other. This isn't supposed to be, correct?



Pause some white on black text like the menu screen and look close at the all the letters. you will probably see the same thing. a blue on one side and green or red on the other. its my understanding this is the convergence issue common to the 8350. mine has it and its starting to bother me more too... I'll get around to calling for an exchange sometime before my 2 year warranty is up Heh...


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guy Lucky* /forum/post/19933273
> 
> 
> Soooo,
> 
> Is it only applicable to those bought before a certain date???
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this 2 year bulb warranty is still in effect???
> 
> 
> Epson.com says 90 day "limited" bulb warranty...
> 
> 
> This would TOTALLY seal the deal for me if it is indeed true...
> 
> 
> THX,
> 
> Guy Lucky



its linked to the official statement on one of the review sites several times in this very long thread .... just work your way back through it. I bought the 4 year warranty from best buy which covers 1 free bulb so I am really up for 2. the first one under 2 years and the second one before 4 yrs is up hopfefully, then it might be time for an upgrade


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guy Lucky* /forum/post/19934982
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I called PP and spoke to Rich the sales rep that I purchased my Panny 700 from...
> 
> He says that the bulb warranty is 90 days...
> 
> 
> He also said that at one time, on some older models that had premature bulb failures, Epson had stepped up and made the warranty on those bulbs for 2 years...
> 
> But not for the 8350...
> 
> 
> He has placed an e-mail to Epson to confirm...
> 
> *
> 
> Where did anyone hear that the bulb was warranted for 2 yrs on the 8350???*
> 
> 
> This is a bummer for me and may be the end of my projector use...
> 
> for a time anyway...
> 
> 55" LCD's are in the >1000 range now...
> 
> And no "bulb" to replace...
> 
> 
> Sure wish I could find some documentation on this...
> 
> As mentioned before...
> 
> epson.com says 90 days
> 
> 
> 
> THX,
> 
> Guy Lucky


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354 




> Quote:
> I have spoken to Epson about this situation. They have looked into it and, like the dealers I talked to, they say they have not discovered any aberrant issues. Nevertheless, Epson wants to ensure customers that it stands behind its products. Therefore, Epson's spokesperson has informed me that if you experience any problem with premature lamp failure on any Epson 1080p projector, you may return the lamp for a replacement lamp anytime during the life of the projector's warranty. Yes, you read that rightpremature lamp failure on any Epson 1080p projector will be covered for the entire duration of the projector's warranty, not the lamp's warranty.
> 
> 
> If you encounter an early lamp failure on any Epson 1080p model, Epson asks that you contact them directly at 800-637-7661 (use your PIN on PrivateLine Support Card).


----------



## heyman421




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeancocteau* /forum/post/19934956
> 
> 
> one thing that really starting to bother me is a bright blue strip down the right side edge and a bright red strip down the left side edge



That's called chromatic aberration, and is a principle of physics inherent in any optical lens.


It's also worth noting that it's least present at the center of a lens, and intensifies as you gravitate towards the edges, so any lens shift you're applying may be increasing it's effect.


----------



## Mike XI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/19930952
> 
> 
> I'll be using two 50' cables - one for component and the other for HDMI.
> 
> 
> It would be great to get recommendations for cables that work best with the 8350. In sifting through some previous posts, I recall reading some folks having problems using longer runs of cables.
> 
> 
> Cable prices at the big box stores are way too expensive but cables offered by monoprice dot com seem very reasonable and the reviews seem very favorable on their site.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



I am using a 'nippon labs' 50' HDMI cable which I got from newegg.com (search for item # N82E16812816006), which works great with my 1080p source. It's relatively thick, but fits in the wire conduit I am using without a problem. It was about $55 shipped.


----------



## lakersin2025

Hey guys. I finally took a picture of my lens today to illustrate my "airborne kitchen grease" concern. Do you guys have this on yours too? Seems to be a combo of a little dust and some "foggy" type stuff.


----------



## vullcan

Get a DSLR lens cleaning kit, should come with a wipe cloth, some spray and some qtips that are safe for lenses.


Mine had a brush too and most of the time I just brush the dust away, but for that obviously a wet lense wipe would be best.


----------



## trolly

If that doesn't come off with a lens cleaning, I'd be getting a replacement.


----------



## mekkerl

I watched my first sports experience on the 8250 last night (college basketball)...unfortunately, I was disappointed in the PQ. Seemed 'rough' around the edges, text was not smooth, motion on the screen was a tad bit juttery...Is this normal for a 60hz projector?


My 120hz sammy LCD TV is MUCH MUCH smoother and crisp...should I even compare the two?


Should I calibrate the projector? Basically out of the box right now...I tried messing with the sharpness, etc... No luck...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/19939466
> 
> 
> Hey guys. I finally took a picture of my lens today to illustrate my "airborne kitchen grease" concern. Do you guys have this on yours too? Seems to be a combo of a little dust and some "foggy" type stuff.



This fear is why i put my popcorn Machine in a seperate room.


----------



## heyman421




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19943168
> 
> 
> I watched my first sports experience on the 8250 last night (college basketball)...unfortunately, I was disappointed in the PQ. Seemed 'rough' around the edges, text was not smooth, motion on the screen was a tad bit juttery...Is this normal for a 60hz projector?
> 
> 
> My 120hz sammy LCD TV is MUCH MUCH smoother and crisp...should I even compare the two?
> 
> 
> Should I calibrate the projector? Basically out of the box right now...I tried messing with the sharpness, etc... No luck...



If you're watching 30hz content, the difference in smoothness is not the extra 60hz refresh rate, but an actual computer effect called frame interpolation available on 120hz televisions.


It actually draws intermediate frames by comparing two consecutive frames, and 'guessing' what would be in between them.


If you turned this feature off on the samsung, the pictures would be very similar, minus the proportional loss in sharpness (for lack of a better word) that comes with stretching the same source image over a greater area.


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Get a DSLR lens cleaning kit, should come with a wipe cloth, some spray and some qtips that are safe for lenses.
> 
> 
> Mine had a brush too and most of the time I just brush the dust away, but for that obviously a wet lense wipe would be best.



I'm afraid to get it wet or even touch it to make things worse. I'm not sure it's affecting the picture quality so I think I'll just leave it alone. I live in northern California on the coast in the redwoods so maybe it's the combo of high humidity and cold air and the inside heat of the lamp.


----------



## wpgcabby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *heyman421* /forum/post/19944213
> 
> 
> If you're watching 30hz content, the difference in smoothness is not the extra 60hz refresh rate, but an actual computer effect called frame interpolation available on 120hz televisions.
> 
> 
> It actually draws intermediate frames by comparing two consecutive frames, and 'guessing' what would be in between them.
> 
> 
> If you turned this feature off on the samsung, the pictures would be very similar, minus the proportional loss in sharpness (for lack of a better word) that comes with stretching the same source image over a greater area.



If you want this feature you will need to upgrade to the 8700ub. I only like it for sports, everything else looks weird to me.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *heyman421* /forum/post/19944213
> 
> 
> If you're watching 30hz content, the difference in smoothness is not the extra 60hz refresh rate, but an actual computer effect called frame interpolation available on 120hz televisions.
> 
> 
> It actually draws intermediate frames by comparing two consecutive frames, and 'guessing' what would be in between them.
> 
> 
> If you turned this feature off on the samsung, the pictures would be very similar, minus the proportional loss in sharpness (for lack of a better word) that comes with stretching the same source image over a greater area.



So would you recommend any calibration changes to the 8350? Or, live with it, or get the 8700, etc...?


Besides movies, sports is my next priority...


----------



## heyman421




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19944423
> 
> 
> So would you recommend any calibration changes to the 8350? Or, live with it, or get the 8700, etc...?
> 
> 
> Besides movies, sports is my next priority...



Well, you also made a comment about some 'roughness.'


THAT should be able to be tweaked. You could make sure things like sharpening enhancers and things are turned down on the projector to your tastes. You could also try sending the feed to your projector at it's native resolution and making sure all the scaling and processing is done by the lovely HQV processors in the epson, rather than your cable box or receiver.


As far as that smoothness, however, the only way to achieve that would be with an external video processor (none of which i'm aware of, but it's possible,) a computer program (which wouldn't apply to live television,) or a different projector or television.


There's simply not enough frames in the original feed to create THAT level of fluidity, even if you had the very top of the line projector or television. What you were seeing must be done with a processor, which the 8350 doesn't possess.


Lastly, i should warn you that samsung and sony's implementations of frame interpolation are widely regarded to be 'cranked to 11' compared to other television manufacturers. As an 8700 owner, myself, i can tell you the effect works perfectly well to my tastes. Being a samsung owner, however, i would suggest you (if at all possible) test-drive the effect on an 8700 somewhere to make sure the effect meets your expectations.


----------



## Johnny_H

I just picked up a DVDO edge video processor to compliment my 8350. Not sure if it has frame interpolation, but it does help to sharpen the image and get rid of some noise and compression artifacts from the cable box. Video processing shows the greatest improvement with HDTV. Blu-ray is improved slightly with a processor, but some motion judder is still present @24 fps. I like that fact that the edge passes 12bit video to the epson unlike my AVR.


Meanwhile...I'm still waiting for my 4th 8350 to show up. I posted images of my 2nd unit a page or so back on this thread. The 3rd one arrived last friday but was defective. It had a horrible purple/green shift in the lower lamp modes.


This 3rd one showed up in a refurbished box, not a new one like the previous replacement. It seems I may have had one of the first refurbished 8350's. Hopefully the 4th one is a keeper...


----------



## jceg

I'm looking for a little advice...


I use my 8350 exclusively for gaming. Xbox 360 (720p component) and PC (1080p hdmi). I primarily run with Dynamic color mode.


A while back, I played Assassins Creed 2. This game has stark white diamonds in the upper left part of the screen that represent your life bars. They are one of the only persistent UI elements in the game, and they are pretty much always there. After a few play sessions I noticed that I could still see 'shadows' of those health diamonds after I had exited the game.


In other words, the static UI elements had 'burned in' to the projected image.


I worried about this quite a bit, but after a few days of use playing other games, they went away. Now I play an MMO a couple times a week for a few hours per session, and I can now see the static UI elements of the MMO as burned in shadows when not in the game.


This issue is bothersome, but under most conditions in an actively moving game I don't notice the image shadows.


I sent a message to Epson technical support about this and they want to send me a replacement projector, with no other feedback as to the issue I am seeing. I am a little concerned about the process, mainly because I fear that I might get a refurbed projector from Epson of unknown quality or life left on the bulb. Other than this problem, the projector is perfect for my uses and has no convergence issues.


Has anyone else experienced any image burn in with the 8350?


What would you do in my situation? Live with it? Or do a return/exchange with Epson and take your chances?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jceg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a little advice...
> 
> 
> I use my 8350 exclusively for gaming. Xbox 360 (720p component) and PC (1080p hdmi). I primarily run with Dynamic color mode.
> 
> 
> A while back, I played Assassins Creed 2. This game has stark white diamonds in the upper left part of the screen that represent your life bars. They are one of the only persistent UI elements in the game, and they are pretty much always there. After a few play sessions I noticed that I could still see 'shadows' of those health diamonds after I had exited the game.
> 
> 
> In other words, the static UI elements had 'burned in' to the projected image.
> 
> 
> I worried about this quite a bit, but after a few days of use playing other games, they went away. Now I play an MMO a couple times a week for a few hours per session, and I can now see the static UI elements of the MMO as burned in shadows when not in the game.
> 
> 
> This issue is bothersome, but under most conditions in an actively moving game I don't notice the image shadows.
> 
> 
> I sent a message to Epson technical support about this and they want to send me a replacement projector, with no other feedback as to the issue I am seeing. I am a little concerned about the process, mainly because I fear that I might get a refurbed projector from Epson of unknown quality or life left on the bulb. Other than this problem, the projector is perfect for my uses and has no convergence issues.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced any image burn in with the 8350?
> 
> 
> What would you do in my situation? Live with it? Or do a return/exchange with Epson and take your chances?



Yeah, good question...burn in on LCD pj? This is my first LCD , all the rest dlp. I have no idea, but if true, I would have maybe skipped this thing


----------



## audioadrenaline

It's probably just image retention: a temporary thing. Burn-in is permanent. You would have to leave a stationary image on the projector for hundreds if not thousands of hours for this to occur...especially on LCD technology, and inorganic at that! Watch some other content on your projector for a few hours. I'll bet it will be gone after that.


----------



## vullcan

this happens to me with the icons on my desktop. I have to display a solid color background for a few hours to get them to go away, they dont go away with just movie watching. They dont go away by shutting off the projector for a few days.


Quite annoying to have serious image retention issues on a $1200 projector... And double annoying to throw bulb life hours down the drain to get the images to go away.


I have since removed all icons from my desktop and auto hide my taskbar (also annoying!)


----------



## kjr39

99% of my viewing on my 8350 is gaming and I have never noticed any IR.


----------



## LinOz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19933813
> 
> 
> Question to my fellow 8350 users. Is anyone out there using a dust cover for their pj (homemade or otherwise) and if otherwise where did you get it from? Also, is it worth it to have a dust cover? My projector will be on a side coffee table if that makes a difference.



I think a dust cover is a good idea. We get a lot of dust because our pet birds, a cockatiel and a cockatoo, generate a lot of dander.


I got the one with my recent purchase from Visual Apex. The problem is that it's a tight fit with elastic all around, so it's impossible to install without messing up the focus and lens alignment. I may give it another try by cutting the elastic to see that will solve the problem.


----------



## jeff1penny

Hey Guys,

I'm a newb here so go easy on me!  I recently purchased an 8350 which I love, but I just have a really silly question to ask, since I'm not familiar with how the picture formats work, but I'll give you an example. I recently watched Inception on blu ray (PS3) & the screen size has the black borders on the top & bottom as opposed to let's say Transformers which is full screen. Is there any way to adjust that? If so, how would one do it & what is the reasoning behind it?


I appreciate it guys!

Thanks


----------



## pepsico

I just got this projector this week and installed it on a 100 inch screen. I need to clean up the wiring, but the quality it amazing. Really excited about this.


Wanted to say thanks to the forum for all of the guidance and suggestions. Really helped me out.


One thing I screwed up on, I mounted it pretty off center. (about 5 feet to the right). I could not get the picture "Squarely" on the screen, and then tried angling it in desperation. Well, needless to say, that made the picture slightly deformed on the edges. Oh well. I remounted it closer to center and got the picture perfect. Take your time, and do test runs.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeff1penny* /forum/post/19950842
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I'm a newb here so go easy on me!  I recently purchased an 8350 which I love, but I just have a really silly question to ask, since I'm not familiar with how the picture formats work, but I'll give you an example. I recently watched Inception on blu ray (PS3) & the screen size has the black borders on the top & bottom as opposed to let's say Transformers which is full screen. Is there any way to adjust that? If so, how would one do it & what is the reasoning behind it?
> 
> 
> I appreciate it guys!
> 
> Thanks



The aspect ratios of each movie are different. The 1.78:1 movies will fill your screen...the 2.38:1 will have the black bars...


You can find the aspect ratios of each movie on the back of the envelope.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pepsico* /forum/post/19950964
> 
> 
> I just got this projector this week and installed it on a 100 inch screen. I need to clean up the wiring, but the quality it amazing. Really excited about this.
> 
> 
> Wanted to say thanks to the forum for all of the guidance and suggestions. Really helped me out.
> 
> 
> One thing I screwed up on, I mounted it pretty off center. (about 5 feet to the right). I could not get the picture "Squarely" on the screen, and then tried angling it in desperation. Well, needless to say, that made the picture slightly deformed on the edges. Oh well. I remounted it closer to center and got the picture perfect. Take your time, and do test runs.



You need to make sure your projector is level and pointing straight toward the wall. Then adjust your lens shift. This should sqaure up the picture.


----------



## ikecomp

Quote:

Originally Posted by *LinOz* 
I think a dust cover is a good idea. We get a lot of dust because our pet birds, a cockatiel and a cockatoo, generate a lot of dander.


I got the one with my recent purchase from Visual Apex. The problem is that it's a tight fit with elastic all around, so it's impossible to install without messing up the focus and lens alignment. I may give it another try by cutting the elastic to see that will solve the problem.
yeah, I was thinking about going with that one but if I have to make some "adjustments" for it to fit I may see if I can find something cheaper. its $29.99 if purchasing separately. thanks for the heads up though


----------



## jceg

Quote:

Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* 
It's probably just image retention: a temporary thing. Burn-in is permanent. You would have to leave a stationary image on the projector for hundreds if not thousands of hours for this to occur...especially on LCD technology, and inorganic at that! Watch some other content on your projector for a few hours. I'll bet it will be gone after that.
Thanks, that definitely sounds like what I'm seeing. I'll try running a movie for a few hours and see if that helps before worrying about it further.


----------



## jceg

Quote:

Originally Posted by *kjr39* 
99% of my viewing on my 8350 is gaming and I have never noticed any IR.
What color mode do you use? I'm curious if there's any correlation between settings and/or brightness and image retention.


----------



## ravenlocke

Just pulled the trigger on this projector and a Favi 100 inch 16:9 electric screen from Amazon with a next Tuesday delivery date! I am very excited! I had a couple of questions regarding setup. According to several calculators, I should be okay with a ten foot throw to a 100 inch screen. Is anyone else do such a short throw and if so is it effecting picture quality at all? Also I was curious how big of a difference the 1.4 gain is going to effect brightness and viewing angles. Thanks for any replies!


----------



## blizzisu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/19952726
> 
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on this projector and a Favi 100 inch 16:9 electric screen from Amazon with a next Tuesday delivery date! I am very excited! I had a couple of questions regarding setup. According to several calculators, I should be okay with a ten foot throw to a 100 inch screen. Is anyone else do such a short throw and if so is it effecting picture quality at all? Also I was curious how big of a difference the 1.4 gain is going to effect brightness and viewing angles. Thanks for any replies!



I am projecting on 92" from 9'4" and the picture quality is great! Mounting as close as possible to the screen gives you better ambient light performance which is important for me.


----------



## jeff1penny




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19951165
> 
> 
> The aspect ratios of each movie are different. The 1.78:1 movies will fill your screen...the 2.38:1 will have the black bars...
> 
> 
> You can find the aspect ratios of each movie on the back of the envelope.



Thanks for the response mekkerl! I figured it had something to do with Aspect ratio, but didn't know if there was any way to watch different movies in different modes. So what is the "aspect" button for on the 8350?


Basically, what you're saying is there's no way to adjust it?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/19952726
> 
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on this projector and a Favi 100 inch 16:9 electric screen from Amazon with a next Tuesday delivery date! I am very excited! I had a couple of questions regarding setup. According to several calculators, I should be okay with a ten foot throw to a 100 inch screen. Is anyone else do such a short throw and if so is it effecting picture quality at all? Also I was curious how big of a difference the 1.4 gain is going to effect brightness and viewing angles. Thanks for any replies!



The smaller the projected image, the less effect using the closest possible Throw distance has on image quality. Under normal conditions, a loss of light uniformity at the edges, as well as sometimes a bit of "Barreling effect" can occur. Usually, if you stay at least outside the 10% of minimum Throw Distance, your going to be OK with such a small screen.


Now the brightness issue. With most 1.4 gain Mfg Screens you will see some degree of sparkles and or texture, especially in Normal Lamp Mode. Switching to Econo can help, and you certainly have that option under your specified circumstances.


Viewing angle will also be reduced somewhat, but that is usually not too much of an issue with a 100" screen because the size alone denotes that the room that contains it won't have any widely disbursed seating arrangements.


All of the above "possibilities" are good and valid reasons to KNOW what your getting into before you jump into making a final buying decision. But good luck. I don't think you can be grossly disappointed no matter what else happens...just aware that it might have been more ideally set up, Screen to PJ-wise


----------



## rat_fink

I bought my 8350 back in November and I can now see some "dots" in the screen.


It seems like more and more of them are appearing over time. See the attached images for reference. I probably wouldn't complain at all except when I watch widescreen movies the brightest dot is low enough that it is always visible in the black bar... staring at me.


I'm going to call Epson next week to see what they suggest, I was just wondering if anyone else has run in to this. (Note: At first i thought it might be dust on the lens, but now I'm pretty sure it's not.)


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rat_fink* /forum/post/19955717
> 
> 
> I bought my 8350 back in November and I can now see some "dots" in the screen.
> 
> 
> It seems like more and more of them are appearing over time. See the attached images for reference. I probably wouldn't complain at all except when I watch widescreen movies the brightest dot is low enough that it is always visible in the black bar... staring at me.
> 
> 
> I'm going to call Epson next week to see what they suggest, I was just wondering if anyone else has run in to this. (Note: At first i thought it might be dust on the lens, but now I'm pretty sure it's not.)



Those are dust blobs....small dust particles that settled on the LCD panels inside the PJ. The projector will need a cleaning. Often, adventurous DIYers have opened their units up and blasted the panels with a can of compressed air to remove the dust blobs. Just know that this can void your warranty. If Epson will take care of it, let them do it.


----------



## Wytchone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flyingvee* /forum/post/19901663
> 
> 
> Worse than that is the dust blob issue. My old Sanyo PLV-70 eventually developed a case of the blobs - after several thousand hours. The 8350 has been in a closed house, breathing filtered air for under 50 hours, yet already has one bigger than a softball on my 84" screen. Contacted Epson, they _might_ send me a new one - still waiting for the verdict. So much for "sealed" light engine.



Well this thing gets dust blobs? Guess no LCD for me


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/19955961
> 
> 
> Those are dust blobs....small dust particles that settled on the LCD panels inside the PJ. The projector will need a cleaning. Often, adventurous DIYers have opened their units up and blasted the panels with a can of compressed air to remove the dust blobs.



Has anyone managed to find the 8350/8700 service manual? I can't find any online referencess to it.


----------



## cmunro

I used to clean my Sanyo Z-2 at least once every 6 months. It was pretty easy to do on that unit just make sure you don't get a blast of water out of the compressed air canister that can happen sometimes.


----------



## rat_fink

Thanks so much for the insight on the "dust blobs" I tried blowing air in through every crevices I could find, but no luck. I didn't do anything serious because I don't want to void my warranty. Looks like I'll have a few dust blobs for the Super Bowl










I'll call Epson service on Monday and see what they say... although I'm not really excited about getting a refurbed replacement if that's their solution.


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19943168
> 
> 
> I watched my first sports experience on the 8250 last night (college basketball)...unfortunately, I was disappointed in the PQ. Seemed 'rough' around the edges, text was not smooth, motion on the screen was a tad bit juttery...Is this normal for a 60hz projector?
> 
> 
> My 120hz sammy LCD TV is MUCH MUCH smoother and crisp...should I even compare the two?
> 
> 
> Should I calibrate the projector? Basically out of the box right now...I tried messing with the sharpness, etc... No luck...



You are most likely just use to 120hz, and maybe your Sammy has a better picture. On The other hand it is very possible that with a bigger screen you are noticing more imperfections. The bigger you go, and higher quality will show more imperfections than smaller and or lower quality. Like playing sd content on an sdtv looks great, but sd content in 1080p usually looks like crap. Even though what you were watching was probably in HD, its still only 720p or 1080i at best, and there will be a lot of pixelation on cable or "over the air" tv with fast moving images, such as sports. A nice 1080p set is meant to pull every detail out of the image, the 8350 is no exception.


What size is the sammy? What size is your pj? As I said, you are probably just use to 120hz. I can't stand the look of it, however to me it IS more tolerable with sports. How do you like the pj picture quality with a bluray @ 24hz?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akrasna* /forum/post/19930002
> 
> 
> Here is my installation - is there a good way to hide/cover these cable. maybe some wrap cover ?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allen



You could try wrapping them with electrical tape or something, then spray paint it white. I used white spray paint and it really helped my cables blend in. If you go this route (I know it goes without saying, but) just make sure your pj is off when you spray, the pj could suck in the paint. Obviously best to paint prior to mounting the cables if possible.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wytchone* /forum/post/19956635
> 
> 
> Well this thing gets dust blobs? Guess no LCD for me



I've had an Epson 6100 for 2 years, I smoke like a chimney and have yet to see a single dust blob.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rat_fink* /forum/post/19957520
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the insight on the "dust blobs" I tried blowing air in through every crevices I could find, but no luck. I didn't do anything serious because I don't want to void my warranty. Looks like I'll have a few dust blobs for the Super Bowl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll call Epson service on Monday and see what they say... although I'm not really excited about getting a refurbed replacement if that's their solution.



If you do get a replacement, don't worry if it's refurbished. If you aren't happy with it, they keep exchanging it until you're happy.


I had my 6100 replaced, got a refurbished unit, and I couldn't be happier with it.


----------



## Guy Lucky

Hey Guys,


I pulled the trigger on an 8350 on Friday...


Got it from BB on a deal match also...


All I can say is ...

WOW!!!


This thing blows my old Panny AWAY !!!


I'm using my old DIY screen that I made 7-8 years ago...

Roughly 96"...

A framed piece of PVC laminated hardboard painted with Behr flat "Bright White" paint...

Picture right out of the box is STUNNING!!!


The blacks are very deep and star fields are AMAZING!!!

The 8350 is so bright that on some scenes you actually have to squint !!!


Thinking very seriously about going to a bigger screen now...










Thanks to all that posted here and influenced my decision...

The fact that Epson is warranting the bulbs for "early" burnout also was key...


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## Wytchone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/19958511
> 
> 
> I've had an Epson 6100 for 2 years, I smoke like a chimney and have yet to see a single dust blob.



Got any pets also?


----------



## cmunro

I went to BB today and got them to pricematch me on projector peoples price $1,199.00 and purchased the 4 year warrenty as well for $150.00.I currently have the plv-60 Sanyo and from what I've been reading this should be a big improvement. It's still in the box I'm going to set her up tommorow before the Superbowl. I did this behind my wifes back pray for me because if she notices I might end up in divorce court. I think it's worth the risk " No Guts Not Glory" right boys!!!:







Lets hope shes colorblind and of course the size difference.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19958275
> 
> 
> You are most likely just use to 120hz, and maybe your Sammy has a better picture. On The other hand it is very possible that with a bigger screen you are noticing more imperfections. The bigger you go, and higher quality will show more imperfections than smaller and or lower quality. Like playing sd content on an sdtv looks great, but sd content in 1080p usually looks like crap. Even though what you were watching was probably in HD, its still only 720p or 1080i at best, and there will be a lot of pixelation on cable or "over the air" tv with fast moving images, such as sports. A nice 1080p set is meant to pull every detail out of the image, the 8350 is no exception.
> 
> 
> What size is the sammy? What size is your pj? As I said, you are probably just use to 120hz. I can't stand the look of it, however to me it IS more tolerable with sports. How do you like the pj picture quality with a bluray @ 24hz?



Yeah, that's what i figured...I have the 8350 about 14' from a 92" screen...my TV is a 46" Sammy LCD LN46A650. I'm gonna try some of the recommendations from above...lowering the sharpness, changing the output of the SAT box, etc...


As for the Bluray...I still have yet to purchase or rent or barrow a blu-ray disc with my new set-up...I've only run regular DVD's on my new blu-ray player which I believe up-converts everything to HD. I changed the frames to 24fps for these, can't really tell a difference to be honest.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As for the Bluray...I still have yet to purchase or rent or barrow a blu-ray disc with my new set-up...I've only run regular DVD's on my new blu-ray player which I believe up-converts everything to HD. I changed the frames to 24fps for these, can't really tell a difference to be honest.



Even though it upconverts the picture to 1080p, the picture quality is only slightly improved. A bluray disc will have dramatically more information for the same picture, giving you a much much better image.


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rat_fink* /forum/post/19957520
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the insight on the "dust blobs" I tried blowing air in through every crevices I could find, but no luck. I didn't do anything serious because I don't want to void my warranty. Looks like I'll have a few dust blobs for the Super Bowl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll call Epson service on Monday and see what they say... although I'm not really excited about getting a refurbed replacement if that's their solution.



Before I bought 8350 I checked the 8100 forum and 1500 posts no one had a Dust Blob that they reported. At least I didn't see anyone they wrote about them but no one said they had one.


I had a Mit. HC 4900 that I had to send in twice for dust blobs. I also had a Benq PE7700 DLP that got a dust blob that I had to send in for cleaning.


mark


----------



## 42Plasmaman

I've been using the 8350 with the iris off because even in fast mode, it does seem a little slow when going from a daylight scene to night but I turn it on to fast lastnight and wow, the blacks are so much deeper.

I don't hear the iris working so noise isn't an issue with mine.


Anyone who has the iris off should try turning it on to see the true contrast this projector can provide.


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to BB today and got them to pricematch me on projector peoples price $1,199.00 and purchased the 4 year warrenty as well for $150.00.I currently have the plv-60 Sanyo and from what I've been reading this should be a big improvement. It's still in the box I'm going to set her up tommorow before the Superbowl. I did this behind my wifes back pray for me because if she notices I might end up in divorce court. I think it's worth the risk " No Guts Not Glory" right boys!!!:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets hope shes colorblind and of course the size difference.



Haha. Good luck with that one. Took me years to work on the wife. Now she loves having a movie theater in the living room.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/19958935
> 
> 
> I did this behind my wifes back pray for me because if she notices I might end up in divorce court. I think it's worth the risk " No Guts Not Glory" right boys!!!:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets hope shes colorblind and of course the size difference.



I read this post to my wife and she laughed out loud, then proceeded to warn me that she would kick my a$$ if I ever pulled that.










I'll pray for you if you pray for me that she doesn't notice when my Yamaha RX-V863 gives birth to an RX-A3000 later this week.


----------



## Amalgamut

Well after less than 4 weeks of owning this projector (We call it the EH-TW3600 in Australia) I had to return it to Harvey Norman (Local Retailer) due to dust blobs! I noticed them on Saturday morning during darker scenes, and when peering into the lens at a certain angle I could see the little f*ckers just sitting on either the mirror or panels. So I took it down from the roof and drove back to the store and spoke with the salesperson that sold it to me and they swapped it over for a brand new one without prompting. No sooner had I finished explaining my issue, the guy was all over it and did up the paperwork for a new one to be picked up from their loading dock. And here was me thinking that I would get the run around about sending it back to Epson etc. No way I was going to cop that with it being less than a month old. These days most major manufacturers/retailers should swap over rather than make you claim a warranty repair. But to their credit the store swapped it over then and there.


Here's hoping that this is not a common problem with this projector. One of my first projectors took years for this to occur, which was most likely due to the fact that I didn't change the filter over during the last two years of its life (subconscious upgrade?). So I won't make that mistake again! But I was bit concerned that it appeared in my Epson less than a month into its lifecycle


----------



## TUPPERNHIGH

I have a question about maintenance for the projector. With my Panny 900u it recommended that the air filter be cleaned every 100hrs... with the 8350 it doesn't really give a specific time from for how often it should be cleaned... Would 100hrs be about right?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wytchone* /forum/post/19958615
> 
> 
> Got any pets also?



I have a cat. I should also add that my PJ is shelf-mounted, and often the cat sleeps on it.


Still no dust blobs.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TUPPERNHIGH* /forum/post/19962721
> 
> 
> I have a question about maintenance for the projector. With my Panny 900u it recommended that the air filter be cleaned every 100hrs... with the 8350 it doesn't really give a specific time from for how often it should be cleaned... Would 100hrs be about right?



Couldn't hurt. If you aren't seeing much dust in the filter when you clean it, you could go longer.


I clean mine about once a month. I never notice it being dusty at all


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/19961611
> 
> 
> I read this post to my wife and she laughed out loud, then proceeded to warn me that she would kick my a$$ if I ever pulled that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pray for you if you pray for me that she doesn't notice when my Yamaha RX-V863 gives birth to an RX-A3000 later this week.



Take advice from a 20 yr married legend...

Always keep things on the up and up..

A month of no sex is not worth any piece of tech toys.....lol


----------



## vladd

Oh, don't worry. I'm still staying under the budget she gave me for the room. I'm just not itemizing (yet).


----------



## gadget-zilla

last few posts have been about the 'dust blobs' - just wondering, is that an issue with LCD pj's - in general or do DLP's are prone to get them as well ?


thanks !


----------



## EJ

Will Sony give replacement lamps under the entire warranty period, like they do with the 8700ub?


----------



## Innocent Gimp

Does anyone know if using living room or dynamic color mode reduces lamp life compared to natural or cinema modes? I ask because I like playing games on the brighter color modes but worry that I am cutting into my lamp life time.....


----------



## Hagopian

Hey Rat_fink....I have the same dust blob issue with my 3 month old 8350.....just curious what you ended up doing...I have about 5 dust blobs....I was hoping there was a procedure for cleaning it out myself...I hate to send my unit in, as I am very happy with the convergence of the unit, and would hate to get a sub par refurbished unit.


----------



## Johnny_H

I just wanted to chime in again as a satisfied (finally) 8350 owner. Been playing the replacement game with Epson since the beginning of January. My 4th pj arrived just in time for the weekend. This one is much better and has very good convergence (1/2 pixel off) and only a hint of a red haze on a black screen. This most recent replacement unit was new too, not a refurb like the 3rd one was. I'm extremely satisfied with epson's support and am just relieved to finally have a good working unit. For anyone out there with reservations of purchasing this projector, rest assured that epson will make it right for you if you get a dud.


----------



## pepsico

Just was curious if people use the plastic lens cover that comes with the projector.. I have been using it, but have a hard time not moving the projector and/or the zoom/focus ring when getting it off..


Any suggestions or alternatives?


----------



## kjr39




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jceg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What color mode do you use? I'm curious if there's any correlation between settings and/or brightness and image retention.



Primarily cinema with some natural rarely. I'm also using Eco mode with brightness / contrast +/-2.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19963353
> 
> 
> Take advice from a 20 yr married legend...
> 
> Always keep things on the up and up..
> 
> A month of no sex is not worth any piece of tech toys.....lol



No but it might be worth a week or two of silence if she doesn't talk to you!


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/19965379
> 
> 
> No but it might be worth a week or two of silence if she doesn't talk to you!



thats awesome....lol


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/19963533
> 
> 
> last few posts have been about the 'dust blobs' - just wondering, is that an issue with LCD pj's - in general or do DLP's are prone to get them as well ?
> 
> 
> thanks !



Some DLP's have sealed optics. LCD's do not have sealed optics. In other words dust blobs are a lot more likely on an LCD than on a DLP.


----------



## Santi8

Were people having the same dust blob problems with the 8100?


----------



## Fox422

I called Epson 2 weeks ago for a dust blobs problem. They decided to send me a new unit right away. Before sending my 2 months old projector I tried to place a cardboard at 4 feet of the lens and adjusted the picture size to the smallest. After that I played with the focus. And Bang ! My God it's full of stars ! I mean dusts. I was like looking at the sky when far away from any lights. Lots and lots of red, green and blu, dusts of all sises. But only three were visible. And my theater is far from dusty... The new unit arrived already with one little green blob. But it's very hard to spot. I'd be more than happy if it stays like that. But I'm afraid it will get worst.


As for the exchange Epson CS was fantastic.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Santi8* 
Were people having the same dust blob problems with the 8100?
It does not look like it because it was not noted as much in the owner's thread.


----------



## kami

You have to wonder if this dust isn't left over inside the PJ from the manufacturing process since it happens so quickly for some people.


----------



## cmunro

I'll pray for you.As for me it's still in the box under the bed.


----------



## msbklipsch

for me the 8350 has worked flawless and I am very impressed with the quality

this is my first FP so my expectation might differ from others

it is sad to see others having issues with the 8350

if one only read this thread it would probably discourage someone from getting this very fine FP

there is one question I do have, how does one check convergence ?

maybe I do not want to know since I feel everything looks GREAT to me


----------



## cmunro

Is it really that hard to remove a few screws and blow the dust off the panels.I can understand if you don't want to chance it and void the warranty. Someone on this forum posted pictures and detailed instructions god bless them. Dust was a huge problem with the Z-2 and I would have been sending it in a lot I don't have that kind of patience.


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/19967421
> 
> 
> Is it really that hard to remove a few screws and blow the dust off the panels.I can understand if you don't want to chance it and void the warranty. Someone on this forum posted pictures and detailed instructions god bless them. Dust was a huge problem with the Z-2 and I would have been sending it in a lot I don't have that kind of patience.



My first projector was a Sanyo Z2. The salesman where I baugh it showed me exactly how to clean it and promised me that it would not void the warranty. So I did maybe two times a year. Once one dust was stuck real bad. I went back and he showed me how the turn on the projector and clean it with the 3 lcd cables that feed the panels unplugged. While projecting on a small surface and focussing on the dust, he took a plasic tie wrap and scraped the panel... So I saw the tie wrap projected and the dust was green so he worked 5 seconds on the green panel and it worked.


I must say, I hope I won't have to do it with my 8350. But it's still easier and faster than dealing with Purolator/Fedex and Cunsumer support, even if they were very nice to me.


----------



## z06gal

Lol


----------



## mitoca

I haven't gone through the whole thread to search for this, but I am having a problem with my new 8350. Got it installed & it works great for TV - all resolutions seem fine. With DVD's, bul-ray's work OK, but regular DVD's won't play. Also don't have the DVD menu. I have a panasonic DMP BD-60 player hooked up through HDMI. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? I'm guessing it's something to do with the DVD's upconvert, but I'm not sure how to fix it.


TIA


----------



## EJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msbklipsch* /forum/post/19966611
> 
> 
> for me the 8350 has worked flawless and I am very impressed with the quality
> 
> this is my first FP so my expectation might differ from others
> 
> it is sad to see others having issues with the 8350
> 
> if one only read this thread it would probably discourage someone from getting this very fine FP
> 
> there is one question I do have, how does one check convergence ?
> 
> maybe I do not want to know since I feel everything looks GREAT to me



If you get HDNet, they have a 10min test pattern that includes a great convergence pattern. Aside from that, I imagine any setup disc would include one. You then walk to the screen and pray you have white dots and lines without color separation. (I can't remember when the test pattern currently runs.)


----------



## Guy Lucky

mitoca,

Not sure why you are having probs...

I have the 8350 and a Panny DMP BD601...

All display settings are to "auto" and my dvd's play fine...

Not sure if this will help your situation but give it a try...

All the resolution settings on both the 8350 and the Panny set to "auto"...


As to the menu probs...

Are these "rental" dvd's???

Some DVD's simply don't have "menu" options at all...


Hope this helps...


Good Luck and May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mitoca* /forum/post/19968102
> 
> 
> I haven't gone through the whole thread to search for this, but I am having a problem with my new 8350. Got it installed & it works great for TV - all resolutions seem fine. With DVD's, bul-ray's work OK, but regular DVD's won't play. Also don't have the DVD menu. I have a panasonic DMP BD-60 player hooked up through HDMI. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? I'm guessing it's something to do with the DVD's upconvert, but I'm not sure how to fix it.
> 
> 
> TIA



Maybe your DVD laser is out.

See if you can play a cd.


----------



## rat_fink




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19964509
> 
> 
> Hey Rat_fink....I have the same dust blob issue with my 3 month old 8350.....just curious what you ended up doing...I have about 5 dust blobs....I was hoping there was a procedure for cleaning it out myself...I hate to send my unit in, as I am very happy with the convergence of the unit, and would hate to get a sub par refurbished unit.



I called today about the dust blobs, they're going to ship me a replacement unit. They had to take my credit card number (in case I don't ship back my old PJ) but other than that it was easy. Epson said the bulb in the new unit they send to me will be brand new... so yay for that.


Lesson for the week: Get/make a dust cover for the projector.


----------



## Saxy Man

I am looking at painting a screen on my wall for at least the short term. Any suggestions to what kind of paint I should get?


----------



## Guy Lucky

Behr Ultra White FLAT interior...

Courtesy Home Depot...


----------



## Bdex75

Some people say behr silverscreen. And I believe that glidden makes a color that people use as well. Go to the diy screen section. Lots of ideas in there.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some people say behr silverscreen. And I believe that glidden makes a color that people use as well. Go to the diy screen section. Lots of ideas in there.



Thought about doing this as well, but I found a screen on eBay. 110" for $240 shipped. I figured I would do the screen eventually anyhow, so I just broke down. Have not put screen up yet. May try the paint, maybe the flat white, and if good can sell the screen.


----------



## mitoca




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19968363
> 
> 
> Maybe your DVD laser is out.
> 
> See if you can play a cd.



Always worked fine on the old TV. And as I said, Bluray's play OK, and I get sound from standard DVD's so I don't think it's the laser.


----------



## ricky889

Hi guys!


This is my first post here, and I just bought and installed a Epson 8350 after reading this forum and doing some more research!


I am upgrading from an old Toshiba DLP called tdp-sp1 and the upgrade in picture quality is amazing but only WHEN WATCHNG BLURAYs.


When watching cable tv (I think 480p?), the PQ is just horrible. I even changed the cable tv service but still the same (I live in Sri Lanka and there is no hd cable tv service, they connect you via those yellow, red, white wires for video and audio).


Is there anything at all I can do to improve PQ for watching tv? when I watch soccer, the image often appears pixelated. I dont have my old Toshiba anymore but I am willing to bet I see no improvement in PQ when watching tv with this pj, maybe even a decrease.


----------



## Hagopian

This dust blob situation seems to be of epidemic proportions and I was wondering if any of your brave techies have been able to successfully clean the blobs yourself, without breaking your projector?


Anyone have such a tutorial? If not, anyone planning on making one? I hate to send my projector back since all other facets of the image are stellar.


Thanks!!


Blob-man


----------



## MississippiMan

Myself, having installed over a dozen of the 8350s, have encountered no such issues "out-of-the-Box". I recall that the Sanyo PJs came with a Squeeze Bulb Syringe to blow way lint and dust that had accumulated within the Light Path..


All that anyone should need to do is remove the Lamp and clean the Front Lens. The sides of The lamp assembly has it's own mesh filters, so if by some unfortunate chance the "blob" is inside the Lamp, between the Outside protective face and the bulb, then that would indicate an issue with the Lamp Mfg, and warrant a replacement.


If one sees no aberrations on the Lamp's facing, and the "Blob" appears to be further inside the Reflective Light Path (...or on the inside facing of the Lens....), the you have nothing to lose by using a Can of Compressed air directed toward that area. Simply removing the PJ's cowling (case) won't void any warranty, but dis-assembly of any of the interior components to reach deep into the Light Path certainly may.


----------



## Shift

Looking @ getting an 8350.


It will be sitting back at about 19' away from the screen.


What is the smallest screen size I can go?


Thanks


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19969026
> 
> 
> Thought about doing this as well, but I found a screen on eBay. 110" for $240 shipped. I figured I would do the screen eventually anyhow, so I just broke down. Have not put screen up yet. May try the paint, maybe the flat white, and if good can sell the screen.



There isn't a White Screen on the Planet that will really compliment the virtues of the 8350, and in some cases actually reduce potential IQ. You can make a excellent 120" DIY Screen that is a light Gray w/1.3 gain, and that has Velvet Trim, for well under $125.00. One that will allow you to use Cinema/Low lamp and achieve Black Levels that are truly "Interstellar" all the while allowing you a much better degree of ambient light viewing ability.


Every once in a while I feel compelled to make a plug for the DIY Screens Forum. It seems over due now. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shift* /forum/post/19970116
> 
> 
> Looking @ getting an 8350.
> 
> 
> It will be sitting back at about 19' away from the screen.
> 
> 
> What is the smallest screen size I can go?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Based on PJ Throw distance, the smallest you can get is 91" but you should try your best to stay at least between 96" & 100"


Check figures yourself here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


Your using "Seating distance" as a unit of measure, not Projector Throw Distance. When factoring in the former, with the seats at 19' away, and using a 1.25 Seating to Screen ratio, you could have a 11' diagonal (132") Screen iffin' ya wanna. Screen size as relates to Seating location is subject to personal taste when you start going beyond the closest suggested figures.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shift* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking @ getting an 8350.
> 
> 
> It will be sitting back at about 19' away from the screen.
> 
> 
> What is the smallest screen size I can go?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Forget the calculators... Project on to the wall, sit down and adjust the size to your liking.. I'm sitting 11 and 16 ft away and have a 103" screen due to limited space on my wall. 100" for you might be too small. I would say between 106" and 120"...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19970226
> 
> 
> Forget the calculators... Project on to the wall, ...



While that can be good advice if you possess a PJ but no Screen, it doesn't help much to answer the question at hand for someone considering a purchase of "both" items.


But I agree that if something is going to be purchased first it's the PJ, and doing as you suggested is very advisable


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Hello all. Thanks for a great thread. I've read half the pages and working on reading the other half.


For 7 years now, I've had a HT room I've been very proud of, with a Panasonic ae500u. Bulb finally died with the blue polarizer following right behind so, I've narrowed my focus down to the Epson 8350 for replacement.


>>>But, my concern and question is, is there anyone that has used the maximum of the horizontal lens shift?


----------



## Shift




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/19970226
> 
> 
> Forget the calculators... Project on to the wall, sit down and adjust the size to your liking.. I'm sitting 11 and 16 ft away and have a 103" screen due to limited space on my wall. 100" for you might be too small. I would say between 106" and 120"...





I hear that, but the wall I have is only 8' wide (96" in length) due to custom shelves on each side where the screen would go in between.


The only reason why I worry (due to calculators) is that there is an electric plug outlet on the opposite side wall and is up high that is 20', but there is again a custom shelf that is there that would give me a foot away where I can also put the 8350 at







. So that is why I said 19' away from the screen










Basically I am wanting to go for the maxium screen size that will fit between those two custom shelfs on each side which is 8' or 96" wide, so a 110" picture image should work??


So this is why I ask










Thanks


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricky889* /forum/post/19969674
> 
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> 
> This is my first post here, and I just bought and installed a Epson 8350 after reading this forum and doing some more research!
> 
> 
> I am upgrading from an old Toshiba DLP called tdp-sp1 and the upgrade in picture quality is amazing but only WHEN WATCHNG BLURAYs.
> 
> 
> When watching cable tv (I think 480p?), the PQ is just horrible. I even changed the cable tv service but still the same (I live in Sri Lanka and there is no hd cable tv service, they connect you via those yellow, red, white wires for video and audio).
> 
> 
> Is there anything at all I can do to improve PQ for watching tv? when I watch soccer, the image often appears pixelated. I dont have my old Toshiba anymore but I am willing to bet I see no improvement in PQ when watching tv with this pj, maybe even a decrease.



Hi Ricky,


You are going from an 800x600 data projector to a 1080P one. The Epson will look spectacular with good source material, but it will also amplify the defects of a bad source. In other words, any noise, pixelation, color bleeding, etc is going to be faithfully reproduced.


When you say that the cable box is connected via composite cable (single yellow with RCA plug), is this your only option? Is there perhaps an S-video connector on the cable box? This would be a din connector with 4 pins in a v type configuration. This may improve the video quality somewhat. However, the problem is twofold. First, the composite cable is not able to even provide the full 480i (not 480p) signal. This is what you may be able to improve with the s-video cable, if available.


The second problem is the quality of the signal itself. If the quality of the broadcast signal is noisy and low bandwidth, no amount of processing will help. You end up getting very sharp garbage.


You might want to consider switching to satellite service. I have no real feel for the various Sri Lanka satellite providers, but satellite tends to be more consistent quality, and you may find one providing high definition options.


Best of luck.


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19970063
> 
> 
> Myself, having installed over a dozen of the 8350s, have encountered no such issues "out-of-the-Box". I recall that the Sanyo PJs came with a Squeeze Bulb Syringe to blow way lint and dust that had accumulated within the Light Path..
> 
> 
> All that anyone should need to do is remove the Lamp and clean the Front Lens. The sides of The lamp assembly has it's own mesh filters, so if by some unfortunate chance the "blob" is inside the Lamp, between the Outside protective face and the bulb, then that would indicate an issue with the Lamp Mfg, and warrant a replacement.
> 
> 
> If one sees no aberrations on the Lamp's facing, and the "Blob" appears to be further inside the Reflective Light Path (...or on the inside facing of the Lens....), the you have nothing to lose by using a Can of Compressed air directed toward that area. Simply removing the PJ's cowling (case) won't void any warranty, but dis-assembly of any of the interior components to reach deep into the Light Path certainly may.



Mississippi Man!! Thanks for the reply....but aren't the blobs using located on the LCD panels themselves, and are not accessible?


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19970617
> 
> 
> Mississippi Man!! Thanks for the reply....but aren't the blobs using located on the LCD panels themselves, and are not accessible?



The blobs I've seen were red or green or blue. So they have to be before the colors are joined together. So yes I think they are on the LCD panels. If they were anywhere else, they would porbably be completely blurred away.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19970692
> 
> 
> The blobs I've seen were red or green or blue. So they have to be before the colors are joined together. So yes I think they are on the LCD panels. If they were anywhere else, they would probably be completely blurred away.



Dust/Lint issues can occur anywhere along a unsealed Light Path, but RBG shaded items will be located on the Panels.


And...they could not get there if it was "sealed" so it goes without question that the surface of the LCD panels has to be at least somewhat accessible.


Usually, upon close inspection, one will find a inlet/outlet for the LCD assembly, because those Panels need to be ventilated for cooling. Improper seating of the Air filter, or excessive air borne 'environmental' debris that can intrude into the casing via small openings not associated with the Air Filtration path are the usual culprits.


There are "LOW Volume" Compressed air sprays, and "Trigger Pumped" Air sprayers available, but you'll have to "open her up" to determine if you can self Service. Otherwise you must accept that if Epson will exchange a PJ for Dust within a unsealed Light Engine, that in itself that is both unusual and "beyond" what is expected. Usually the Pj sent in will have to go "on Queue" and wait for service, and it would arrive with the same Bulb. Not so with a replacement, be it Refurb or New.


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/19970286
> 
> 
> Hello all. Thanks for a great thread. I've read half the pages and working on reading the other half.
> 
> 
> For 7 years now, I've had a HT room I've been very proud of, with a Panasonic ae500u. Bulb finally died with the blue polarizer following right behind so, I've narrowed my focus down to the Epson 8350 for replacement.
> 
> 
> >>>But, my concern and question is, is there anyone that has used the maximum of the horizontal lens shift?


----------



## dcapache

Hello folks,


Epson just sent me a replacement due to a big green dot (dust blob) on the original one. Set up this refurbished one immediately and what a disappointment! No dust blob but something much worse. Here is a snapshot of PATTERN screen on right edge. You cannot see vertical white line at all, it's now just purple and bright blue. Epson has good customer service but they really need to work on quality control.


They are sending out a second replacement, let's what I will get.


----------



## ferbal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19970692
> 
> 
> The blobs I've seen were red or green or blue. So they have to be before the colors are joined together. So yes I think they are on the LCD panels. If they were anywhere else, they would porbably be completely blurred away.



+1. Of all of my 5 Panasonic LCD projectors (300, 500, 900, 2000 & 3000), had several dust blobs on the first 3. To clean the blobs, I always had to open the PJs to blow them with compressed air. All of them were located on the LCD / polarizer panels.


----------



## dcapache

Here is a snapshot of my original unit. Not good, but compared to the refurbished one (shown above), it is not too bad, I wouldn't send it back for this. I'm not a picky customer.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shift* /forum/post/19970328
> 
> 
> I hear that, but the wall I have is only 8' wide (96" in length) due to custom shelves on each side where the screen would go in between.
> 
> 
> The only reason why I worry (due to calculators) is that there is an electric plug outlet on the opposite side wall and is up high that is 20', but there is again a custom shelf that is there that would give me a foot away where I can also put the 8350 at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So that is why I said 19' away from the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically I am wanting to go for the maxium screen size that will fit between those two custom shelfs on each side which is 8' or 96" wide, so a 110" picture image should work??
> 
> 
> So this is why I ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



You need to take into account the frame width. My fixed frame is about 3-1/2" wide on each side and the screen is 92" giving me a total of 97" of width on m 106" 1.78 (16:9) screen.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You need to take into account the frame width. My fixed frame is about 3-1/2" wide on each side and the screen is 92" giving me a total of 97" of width on m 106" 1.78 (16:9) screen.



I have the same problem with height and width. I wanted to go 120", but the wife wanted cabinets below with the center sitting on a granite counter top. She was horribly opposed to the center stands. Makes a 120" too tall. Then I have 117" total width, minus 20" for front main floor standing speakers....too narrow. So I am doing a 110". From 12' throw, I should be good. Waiting to put the screen up until I get the pj and check it out on a grey wall. Even if it is the behr or gladden paint. (but yes, I will check out the diy screen section)


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dcapache* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a snapshot of my original unit. Not good, but compared to the refurbished one (shown above), it is not too bad, I wouldn't send it back for this. I'm not a picky customer.



I'm pretty sure that's how mine is and it looks good to me. I still need to do the "hold piece of paper 2 feet from lens test" but I don't think I even want to. I have uniform color, no red or blue corners so I'm happy as is.


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rat_fink* /forum/post/19955717
> 
> 
> I bought my 8350 back in November and I can now see some "dots" in the screen.
> 
> 
> It seems like more and more of them are appearing over time. See the attached images for reference. I probably wouldn't complain at all except when I watch widescreen movies the brightest dot is low enough that it is always visible in the black bar... staring at me.
> 
> 
> I'm going to call Epson next week to see what they suggest, I was just wondering if anyone else has run in to this. (Note: At first i thought it might be dust on the lens, but now I'm pretty sure it's not.)



I have a blob on mine also just popped up a few weeks ago. I ordered my projector right when they came out. Let us know how that call to Epson goes....


----------



## edmove

Just about finished with my 120'' Seymour SC xD screen built. Acoustically transparent so I could get to 120'' on my build. I am blown away by the 8350 on this screen. I just love it. Here are a few photos.


This is the test pattern from the 8350. Fits perfectly.










Nothing projected on the screen in this one.










Inception blu ray menu.










This one below shows the screen with some lights I put behind the screen. I have yet to black out the area around the screen. When that is done only the light coming through the screen will be seen. I really wish I could get the speakers to show up with the lights but they are too close to the screen to get any light to shine on the front of them. I will play around with the lights more to get the best placement. The lights will eventually be controlled from my X10 remote.


----------



## develvjd-

Re: acoustically transparent above... What is the screen material?


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19973056
> 
> 
> This one below shows the screen with some lights I put behind the screen. I have yet to black out the area around the screen. When that is done only the light coming through the screen will be seen. I really wish I could get the speakers to show up with the lights but they are too close to the screen to get any light to shine on the front of them. I will play around with the lights more to get the best placement. The lights will eventually be controlled from my X10 remote.



Sorry to say that edmove but you have three blue and red giants dust blobs on your screen


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19973056
> 
> 
> ......When that is done only the light coming through the screen will be seen. I really wish I could get the speakers to show up with the lights but they are too close to the screen to get any light to shine on the front of them. I will play around with the lights more to get the best placement......



Having the speakers silhouetted would be pretty cool too! Just having them outlined against the light might be more attainable with the restictions you have?


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lin000* /forum/post/19293956
> 
> 
> 
> My sofa's distance from the screen is about 11'. Projector (Epson 8350) to screen is about 12.5'. The screen is 120", My sofa doesn't go exceed the length of the screen.
> 
> 
> I was debating between:
> 
> 1. 1.8 Grey, view angle 100 degree. http://www.elunevision.com/cinema-gray.html
> 
> 2. 1.1 Grey, view angle 160 degree. http://www.elunevision.com/pro-cinema-gray.html
> 
> 
> What's your suggestion? Thanks.



I have a dedicated theater room, dark walls and light control. Projector will sit about 12' from the screen. Screen will be 92".


Read most of the 100+ pages... Not sure anyone has made strong case for or against going for a grey screen with the 8350.


What are the pros and cons of going for a grey screen in my case? Will the brighter colors be "fader"?


----------



## unclemat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/19958275
> 
> 
> You could try wrapping them with electrical tape or something, then spray paint it white. I used white spray paint and it really helped my cables blend in. If you go this route (I know it goes without saying, but) just make sure your pj is off when you spray, the pj could suck in the paint. Obviously best to paint prior to mounting the cables if possible.



Paint cables with the projector up there? Crazy.










Get a white conduit or split loom. E.g. something like this:

http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0348521


----------



## bonjovi

Well. I ended up getting an auto-iris malfunction error. Called up epson and they are sending a replacement right away. I was told that I'd be getting a new unit and not a refurb but let's see what happens.


I'm glad I'm getting another one because this being my first pj, I don't know if this particular unit was perfect. The iris was noisy but I guess the error confirms some sort of problem. The fan was ok. The colors and convergence looked good to me but I did have one huge concern. Motion


I was watching RED on blu ray (via ps3) and there is a 360 degree panning shot early in the movie when bruce willis is in his front yard and it looked awful on the projector. It was just choppy and blurry and well just horrible. I noticed some motion issues before too. I had it set to 2:2 /24 pulldown and so was the ps3. Is there some other setting I need to change. I noticed some poor motion on this before but I thought it was more of a setup problem or cablebox signal issue. This particular scene just looked so bad that everyone looked at me and said what the hell was that? I have only used the pj 6 or 7 times so I am new to this. I guess I will see if there is an issue with the replacement projector. But if someone out there knows of a setting I should change please let me know. This can't be normal.

Well hopefully the new one will be just fine.


----------



## Guy Lucky

Thought I would post a couple of pics of my lousy Behr "Ultra White" DIY screen....

With the 8350 of course...

BTW...

Pay little to no attention to the dates on these pics...

I constantly replace batteries in my camera...


ALL that have seen my screen are BLOWN AWAY !!!

I'm almost embarassed to tell them what it cost me...










IMHO..

All you need for a home theater screen is just this simple...

Don't spend hundreds of $$$...

It's a waste of money and just additional profit for the stores...

DIY and spend less...


Total materials cost was 35 bucks!!!


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dede* /forum/post/19974830
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated theater room, dark walls and light control. Projector will sit about 12' from the screen. Screen will be 92".
> 
> 
> Read most of the 100+ pages... Not sure anyone has made strong case for or against going for a grey screen with the 8350.
> 
> 
> What are the pros and cons of going for a grey screen in my case? Will the brighter colors be "fader"?



"Fader"?


Colors will be significantly better...with more "PoP" & "Sizzle".

A Gray Mfg Screen with 1.4 or more Gain always carries along with it issues.


As Guy Lucky said,


> Quote:
> Don't spend hundreds of $$$...
> 
> It's a waste of money and just additional profit for the stores...
> 
> DIY and spend less...



However, even though "White" can & does look splendid, ain't no way in 'ell it will *EVER* look like the DIY 1.4+ gain Gray Screen shown below.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/19974530
> 
> 
> 
> I like to watch sports with the lights on... so here you go- high ambient light shots. These all represent the room conditions pretty well. 11 (yes eleven) 65W flood incandescents FULL ON and one CFL full on. You can see in some of the pics that the three incandescents closest to the screen are off. Light carpet, ultra white ceiling, 4" from screen to bulkhead, pretty much all the mean things you can do to a screen and I'm floored with the results.
> 
> ***Disclaimer: The pics pick up a blue tint from my $150 camera... it's not there in reality.*
> 
> 
> Epson 8350
> 
> Living room ECO mode
> 
> 12'3" throw
> 120" diag
> 
> Silver Fire 3.0 on drywall
> OTA HD signal, entry model Yamaha receiver, Monoprice speakers, HDMI cable, etc.
> 
> 
> enough already...
> 
> 
> action shot from the back of the room to show ambient lighting "challenges"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> angle 2, same lighting, diagonal corner of room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not a bad seat in the house with the SF mix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now That's taking the mantra of Higher Gain Screens having limited Viewing Cones and tossin' it on the Trash! and one must consider, that's a "Gray" Screen there.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) Spoiler
> *Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) more screen performance vs. ambient lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AYS??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stitched combination of the 2 photos above (in the spoiler tags). This is really what the screen looks like in these lighting conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just sayin.



Lovely Skin Tones for a Gray Screen, don'tcha thin sew? Kim can have my.......vote.


----------



## cmunro

I noticed the same thing with the iris it was very noisy it sounded like it was bound up and not working properly. I tried leaving it on hoping it would go through some kind of breaking in period but the noise just got worse. I just turned it off and returned the whole unit back to Best buy. It's really a nice projector but I really could not see much of an improvement over my sanyo plv-z60 to justify shelling out all of that bread. I'll just hang on to my old unit and wait for the bulb to blow. Good luck with the iris issue I would return it for service if it sounded anything like my unit.


----------



## cmunro

Those are some impressive pictures. You have that projector dialed in by the looks of it.


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19975242
> 
> 
> "Fader"?
> 
> 
> Colors will be significantly better...with more "PoP" & "Sizzle".
> 
> A Gray Mfg Screen with 1.4 or more Gain always carries along with it issues.
> 
> 
> As Guy Lucky said,
> 
> 
> 
> However, even though "White" can & does look splendid, ain't no way in 'ell it will *EVER* look like the DIY 1.4+ gain Gray Screen shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely Skin Tones for a Gray Screen, don'tcha thin sew? Kim can have my.......vote.




Wow MississippiMan, fantastic pictures!

_"Fader" ....







Sorry, english is not my first language! I guess I meant "will bright colors look faded when using a gray screen?"_


From the looks of your screenshots, a gray screen will look fantastic with the 8350! But I need to go with a motorized screen because there will be a flat screen behind the screen for casual viewing and kids X-box marathons.


This said, your pics have convinced me to go for a gray screen. I need to pic between these two:

http://www.elunevision.com/luna.html 


Cinema gray (1.1 gain) -> http://www.elunevision.com/cinema-gray.html 

Vivid Pro Cinema gray (1.8 gain) -> http://www.elunevision.com/pro-cinema-gray.html 


I am tempted to go for the 1.8, the theatre is narrow, the widest and farthest row of seats is 9 feet wide, and 13 feet away, so that's just a bit wider then the screen, so viewing from the sides will not happen.


Trigger finger is about to pull!!


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dede* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Wow MississippiMan, fantastic pictures!
> 
> 
> "Fader" ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, english is not my first language! I guess I meant "will bright colors look faded when using a gray screen?"
> 
> 
> From the looks of your screenshots, a gray screen will look fantastic with the 8350! But I need to go with a motorized screen because there will be a flat screen behind the screen for casual viewing and kids X-box marathons.
> 
> 
> This said, your pics have convinced me to go for a gray screen. I need to pic between these two:
> 
> http://www.elunevision.com/luna.html
> 
> 
> Cinema gray (1.1 gain) -> http://www.elunevision.com/cinema-gray.html
> 
> Vivid Pro Cinema gray (1.8 gain) -> http://www.elunevision.com/pro-cinema-gray.html
> 
> 
> I am tempted to go for the 1.8, the theatre is narrow, the widest and farthest row of seats is 9 feet wide, and 13 feet away, so that's just a bit wider then the screen, so viewing from the sides will not happen.
> 
> 
> Trigger finger is about to pull!!



While MMan's work with SF Gray screens is impressive, I have seen the 8350 on other gray screens as wasn't as impressed. The 8350 is already so bright, so the extra gain isn't as necessary and unless you're planning on having heavy ambient light, I would say that gray probably won't give you the same results you are seeing with Mississippi's screen.


I thought gray at first and went back to white. I didn't have time to work up a batch of Silver Fire, and I thought the colors popped much more on a white screen. Order some samples for yourself and see what you prefer.


----------



## smurf01501

Ok, I am on my second 8350 since January 16th. The first one developed a small dust blob within 6 days. It wasn't noticeable during the movies, but it was there. I returned it to Best Buy and 10 days later my new one also gets a small dust blob. This one is also not noticeable during a movie. Am I going to keep getting them? Do I just live with them until they start to distract me and then take it in for a cleaning? Is this something that most people are dealing with or did I possibly get 2 bad projectors in a row? Neither of them had the dust blobs when I purchased it. They appeared many days later. I just hate to take it back again have it fine for a while and suddenly I get another dust blob. What are your thoughts on this?


Jeff


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smurf01501* /forum/post/19976295
> 
> 
> Neither of them had the dust blobs when I purchased it. They appeared many days later. I just hate to take it back again have it fine for a while and suddenly I get another dust blob. What are your thoughts on this?
> 
> 
> Jeff



Are you venting this with the output tube from your shop vac or something? I have never heard of this level of dust contamination, so I would say you need to find and eliminate whatever is causing all that dust.


When did you last change your furnace filter? Is your dryer venting outside properly? Are you running wood tools while the projector is on? Something like that?


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/19976421
> 
> 
> Are you venting this with the output tube from your shop vac or something? I have never heard of this level of dust contamination, so I would say you need to find and eliminate whatever is causing all that dust.
> 
> 
> When did you last change your furnace filter? Is your dryer venting outside properly? Are you running wood tools while the projector is on? Something like that?



I had a Panasonic AE700 for 6 years prior to this and never had a dust blob until now. I always dust around the projector with a wet wipe so dust doesn't fly around. Each occasion I have only gotten a single dust blob, so it is not like I'm getting tons of them at once.


----------



## sdarnell

Does anyone have the settings that they use for a PS3 with this Projector?

Thanks


----------



## Fox422

Quote:

Originally Posted by *smurf01501* 
I had a Panasonic AE700 for 6 years prior to this and never had a dust blob until now. I always dust around the projector with a wet wipe so dust doesn't fly around. Each occasion I have only gotten a single dust blob, so it is not like I'm getting tons of them at once.
I had a Panasonic AX-200 for 3 years at the exact same spot without any dust problems. Flicker was... Last november I changed for the 8350 and 2 months later I have Dust blobs. Epson changed my unit and now I have another dust blob, a very little one, hard to see. But the fact is that my theater has always been more than reasonably clean. For me it's evident that the ax-200 was not as easily affected by my environment that the 8350 is.


I just hope that someone will eventually open a unit, clean it with an air duster and will provide us with a tutorial and pictures. But it won't be me. I don't want any surprises and be left wondering where is supposed to go that last screw...


----------



## smurf01501

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Fox422* 
I had a Panasonic AX-200 for 3 years at the exact same spot without any dust problems. Flicker was... Last november I changed for the 8350 and 2 months later I have Dust blobs. Epson changed my unit and now I have another dust blob, a very little one, hard to see. But the fact is that my theater has always been more than reasonably clean. For me it's evident that the ax-200 was not as easily affected by my environment that the 8350 is.


I just hope that someone will eventually open a unit, clean it with an air duster and will provide us with a tutorial and pictures. But it won't be me. I don't want any surprises and be left wondering where is supposed to go that last screw...
I guess I could swap it at Best Buy again. But I feel that I will just get a dust blob sooner or later anyway. I don't mind them if they are faint and don't distract me during a movie. I am afraid that after a year I'll wind up with a bunch of them. Are most people here just living with minor dust blobs?


----------



## scotty562

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jaydillyo* 
Yes the 8350 will upscale. If you get black bars playing Wii then the Wii is set up wrong. There is an aspect ratio setting in the Wii that should be set to 16:9 not 4:3.


-- jaydillyo
I set the Wii to 16:9, but it's still displayed as 4:3. I did some Googling and apparently the Wii gets it's 16:9 by just cramming more info into the 4:3 image and then distorting it so that when it's stretched to 16:9 it looks right.


I guess that leads me to how do I get the 8350 to do the stretching?


----------



## Johnny_H

My 2nd replacement projector had dust blobs appear after about 50 hours. I waited over two weeks to have that unit replaced because they were out of stock. During this time I noticed more and more fine dust particles accumulating on the green panel until a good replacement finally arrived. On my 3rd replacement 8350 which arrived last Friday I had a small dust blob appear the very next morning after only 6 hours.


Keep in mind I have had a HC720 in this same environment with 5000+ hours and no dust blobs at all. Since purchasing an 8350 my basement has been as close to a cleanroom as I can make it by dusting each morning before work.


However, since the 1st blob appeared on my new unit (not very noticable) I have been experimenting to help reduce the amount of dust going into the pj. I finally have one with great convergence and I want to hold on to it. So, I used some painter's tape to block off the unused inputs on the back of the pj where I saw light leaking through (HDMI 2, Svideo, etc). The logic being - if light can find it's way out of those holes then dust could find it's way in. Since I have done this saturday morning no more dust particles have accumulated (aside from the blob + three other green specs that were already there). Not sure if it really helped or not, but it's worth a shot. I'm just wondering where else it's been sneaking in...


----------



## ravenlocke

I am kinda concerned now about these dust blobs. Has anyone owned this PJ since oct 2010 with no dust issues?! I received mine yesterday and I love it so far! Detailed impressions and pics coming soon!


----------



## ikecomp

I was pretty much settled on a 100" screen for my 8350 with a seating distance of 11'. However, me and the little lady were demoing out a couple of bluray's (Star Trek and Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen) last night just to be certain before I placed the order for my screen and suddenly she asked "Can we make the image bigger?". I said sure, and increased it to 110" and we both liked how much more immersive it felt.


However, when we initially increased the image size my eyes felt like they were straining a little bit but after 5 minutes, they were fine. My question is, does anyone else deal with eyestrain from having a screen too big at a somewhat short distance with seating or is this just something your eyes will get used to?


I'm all for a super huge screen but not at the expense of hurting my eyesight. I also play a lot of 360 so this is something else to consider (Lots of fast motion and eye movements)


----------



## edmove




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19974019
> 
> 
> Sorry to say that edmove but you have three blue and red giants dust blobs on your screen



That really made me crack up! Fellow coworkers are wondering what I laughted so loud at!


----------



## gadget-zilla

Just when I finally convince myself to buy the 8350, I read even more posts about the dust blobs. So, for all the 8350 owner dudes (and dudettes), kindly post a few basic feedback regarding this unit.


1) how long since your original 8350 purchase?

2) where purchased?

3) did you purchase extended warranty?

4) When did you first notice the dust blob?

5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time ?

6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?


As much as the 8350 is a great bang for the buck - I'm guessing that it is a big hassle for those who keep taking the projector down every couple of months and getting replacements, then recalibrating, reinstall, retesting, over and over. Some folks wrote in previous posts that they are on their 3rd or 4th unit - due to dust blobs (or conversion issues) - personally, I'm not comfortable when reading that.




Glad to also read from the past posts that Epson customer service is great and replacements are easy to get - but still - it seems like a big hassle.


I'm using an older 720p DLP based projector which doesn't suffer with the aforementioned.


My upcoming projector purchase is a hard sell to the fiance' and required much convincing that how technology and products have come a long way and now we can purchase a 1080p at an affordable cost - given that, I'm really trying to avoid a projector that happens to have design flaws. My idea of a projector is that once I install it, and after the initial 'tweaking', I just want to get wow'd each time I watch a movie.


Below is an example of feedback based on one of the poster's info..


1) how long since your original 8350 purchase?

Bought 8350 about six months ago


2) where purchased?

BestBuy


3) did you purchase extended warranty?

Yes


4) When did you first notice the dust blob? after two months


5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time ?


over time, I saw dust blobs with each unit after a couple of months


6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?

just learn to live with them.



My intention is to gather these type of details so those who are in a similar boat as me, can make an informed decision. The goal really isn't to document the performance of the this unit - meaning it doesn't output as black as brand/model xyz or it isn't as bright as model/brand xyx - rather to collect the one or two major design related reasons that can impact a decision. At some point, after all the number crunching - it really becomes a practical matter - IMO. ;-).


Thanks in advance for your candid feedback.


----------



## edmove




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/19973382
> 
> 
> Re: acoustically transparent above... What is the screen material?



Seymour CS xD screen. Total coast for 120'' plus with a 20 degree tilt and making the cuts was about two fifty. George Lucus has the same screen materia in his home so that should give you a good idea on the quality and its acoustic transparance. Really fantastic stuff.


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/19975242
> 
> 
> "Fader"?
> 
> 
> Colors will be significantly better...with more "PoP" & "Sizzle".
> 
> A Gray Mfg Screen with 1.4 or more Gain always carries along with it issues.
> 
> 
> As Guy Lucky said,
> 
> 
> 
> However, even though "White" can & does look splendid, ain't no way in 'ell it will *EVER* look like the DIY 1.4+ gain Gray Screen shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely Skin Tones for a Gray Screen, don'tcha thin sew? Kim can have my.......vote.



Damn those pics look awesome. Now that I talked the wife into the projector. I just need to get the ok to sand and paint a 120" screen on our rental apartment wall. Had it for about 2 weeks so far projecting onto a high gloss white wall and I do notice the texture in the wall but it still looks great.


Wish me luck.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19977731
> 
> 
> I was pretty much settled on a 100" screen for my 8350 with a seating distance of 11'. However, me and the little lady were demoing out a couple of bluray's (Star Trek and Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen) last night just to be certain before I placed the order for my screen and suddenly she asked "Can we make the image bigger?". I said sure, and increased it to 110" and we both liked how much more immersive it felt.
> 
> 
> However, when we initially increased the image size my eyes felt like they were straining a little bit but after 5 minutes, they were fine. My question is, does anyone else deal with eyestrain from having a screen too big at a somewhat short distance with seating or is this just something your eyes will get used to?
> 
> 
> I'm all for a super huge screen but not at the expense of hurting my eyesight. I also play a lot of 360 so this is something else to consider (Lots of fast motion and eye movements)



I sit about 10' from a 117" screen & no one has ever complained about eye strain. My neck/head is also not tracking side to side since the screen width is within my entire vision when looking forward.

I think I could go bigger and may be going to 120" in the future.


----------



## pacemaker

when ceiling mounted the fan speed in 'eco' mode increases to, what to me, is a distracting level


don't know for what possible reason it does this but would love to be able to get into the hidden factory menu setting (if one exists) and turn it back down to the 'normal way up eco' mode


----------



## Hagopian

1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? October 2010

2) where purchased? Projector People

3) did you purchase extended warranty? No

4) When did you first notice the dust blob? January 2011

5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time ?

6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue? Debating whether to clean myself or not. Don't want to send it in for a refurb. Only noticeable on dark scenes.


----------



## Bdex75

Ok, so I had pretty much decided on either a 8350 or an 8700. Really dependent on if I was willing to spend the extra $700 to get a free extra bulb and ???

Then today I stopped in to an old friends home theatre store (he has had this store for 10 plus years). Told him what I was looking for and he continues to tell me that I am nuts and should be buying a dlp projector (optoma hd2200) for $1500. Noting the deeper blacks and "better picture".

I have a walkout basement, with ambient light that I plan to control with blackout shades. I am planning throwing 110" 12 feet and the projector will be centered on the screen. Horizontal shift will not be an issue. The projector he was suggesting was $1500. At first he was trying to sell me a $5000 Runco.

Was also trying to sell me an Integra dtr-7.9 receiver, b stock for $600. I have never heard of this receiver and cannot find anything on it while googling, good or bad.

I have done very little research on dlp projectors and would like some input. Forget the fact that I know the guy. If he is nuts, please do tell and I will go forward with plan a. Thanks. Brandon


----------



## jays_on

Thought I was pretty cool, assuming I wouldn't have the dust blob issue. Turns out I'm not as cool as I thought. Just noticed 2 last night on a black screen. I'll use it as a valid excuse for a replacement prior to warranty expiration unless it gets really bad. Hopefully they will fix the issue.


----------



## vladd

Does anyone know roughly what the temperature would be on the prism side of the LCD panels when the projector is running?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19979385
> 
> 
> Ok, so I had pretty much decided on either a 8350 or an 8700. Really dependent on if I was willing to spend the extra $700 to get a free extra bulb and ???
> 
> Then today I stopped in to an old friends home theatre store (he has had this store for 10 plus years). Told him what I was looking for and he continues to tell me that I am nuts and should be buying a dlp projector (optoma hd2200) for $1500. Noting the deeper blacks and "better picture".
> 
> I have a walkout basement, with ambient light that I plan to control with blackout shades. I am planning throwing 110" 12 feet and the projector will be centered on the screen. Horizontal shift will not be an issue. The projector he was suggesting was $1500. At first he was trying to sell me a $5000 Runco.
> 
> Was also trying to sell me an Integra dtr-7.9 receiver, b stock for $600. I have never heard of this receiver and cannot find anything on it while googling, good or bad.
> 
> I have done very little research on dlp projectors and would like some input. Forget the fact that I know the guy. If he is nuts, please do tell and I will go forward with plan a. Thanks. Brandon



The Opoma HD2200 looks like a pretty good projector going by the specs. http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD2200.htm I do not like the noise level of the HD2200, but I have not seen or heard one in person. Another projector that you might consider is the Mits HC4000. It's contrast is not as good as the HD2200, but it is a little quieter and it throws a good image. http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...4000/index.php I would also look at the Panny PT-AE4000.


Integra is Onkyo's high end.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The Opoma HD2200 looks like a pretty good projector going by the specs. http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD2200.htm I do not like the noise level of the HD2200, but I have not seen or heard one in person. Another projector that you might consider is the Mits HC4000. It's contrast is not as good as the HD2200, but it is a little quieter and it throws a good image. http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...4000/index.php I would also look at the Panny PT-AE4000.
> 
> 
> Integra is Onkyo's high end.




As I continue to read about the 8350 and 8700, the dust blob issue is a tad bit concerning. I do not plan on spending a lot of time watching this pj and just want it to look good and work properly when i do have a couple hours to watch a movie. (which is not very often with as much as i travel and work) One of the advantages of the epson's is the adjustibility of the image, which to me is not a big issue since I have built a theatre room specifically for whatever pj I buy. It is hard to find this optoma 2200 pricing anywhere, which is another little issue for me. I want to know that I am getting a fair deal, not a steal, but a fair deal. It is the old dlp vs LCD debate I guess. It is the same way with this Integra receiver, nothing out there on it other than it is a model that they no longer make from 2008??? I was looking at Denon receivers as well as Marantz and then he throws this one in the mix. Why do these decisions have to be so difficult???

It is not like an extra few hundred bucks is going to break me, but the wife has already gone overboard with cabinets and carpet and is killing my apparent "phantom" budget as she calls it.


----------



## Guy Lucky

Hey All,

+ 1 with Johnny H...

I IMMEDIATELY put tape over the unused inputs on the back after reading his post...

Recommend all who own an 8350 follow this lead...


MM,

Wasn't at all trying to get into some sort of "DIY screen war" with you...

Point is simply that ya ain't gotta go with all that gain on a screen with an 8350...

It's plenty bright enough...


I will point out that the pics I took were from a Kodak c875 (which EATS batteries)...


8350 settings were...

"natural" not "living room"...

bright at -4

all others at 0

"Eco" not "normal"...

Color temp at 6000...

Gamma at 2.2...

Blu ray is a Panny BP601 with a Monster HDMI cable...

As you can tell these are very conservative settings...


It is universally recognized that any color for a screen...

other than white...

reduces contrast and offsets all other colors...


Bottom line...

With a "gray" screen...

You lose contrast, period.

And ALL colors will not be "true", period.

Not to mention that the "gain" of the screen introduces its own set of "issues"...


But of course...YMMV.


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## gadget-zilla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19981167
> 
> 
> As I continue to read about the 8350 and 8700, the dust blob issue is a tad bit concerning.
> 
> 
> It is the same way with this Integra receiver, nothing out there on it other than it is a model that they no longer make from 2008??? I was looking at Denon receivers as well as Marantz and then he throws this one in the mix. Why do these decisions have to be so difficult???



for what its worth - you are not alone with your dust blob concerns - that is exactly what is keeping me from pulling the trigger on this projector. Then, I see those AWESOME shots of what this projector can display, posted by MississippiMan, and I start drooling again - so yeah, I agree100% - why do these decisions have to be so difficult.


In regards to the Onkyo Integra, don't get so hung up on that particular brand. Denon and Marantz are both fine brands as well. If you want to make sure you can pass 3D signal, ensure HDMI is 1.4 supported on the receiver. Most of these new(er) receivers do lossless audio decoding from DolbyDigital and DTS -so that is apples to apples.


Rest, look at the RMS wattage output of the unit. Most provide plenty power to get a pretty loud output. Most subwoofers have their own amps so that 'thump' will be deep enough on its own so you receiver has enough wattage to feed the center/fronts and rear speakers without breaking a sweat.


Lower watts output receiver doesn't mean that its not as good as the other with the higher wattage output. It also has to do with how efficient the speakers are. If you speakers are not efficient, you'll have to crank the volume higher to get the loudness you want. Speaker sensitivity ratings are at db SPL (sound pressure level). Higher the SPL number, the more efficient they are - just keep these basics in mind and go with other bells and whistles you like in a particular receiver then buy it and hook it up and enjoy. Unless you have some serious money invested in high end audio gear, I doubt you'll hear THAT much difference between brand X vs brand Y. There are just way too many factors to take into consideration when deciding about that 'perfect' audio


I found this cool chart at this website that will give you an idea about speaker ratings.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spl.html 


The minor audio difference within most of the major brands in the same class, is not worth losing sleep over - IMO










good luck with your decision - I'm still having dust blob nightmares - waking me up in the middle of the night in cold sweats


----------



## Jamosb78

1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? November 2010

2) where purchased? Projector People

3) did you purchase extended warranty? No

4) When did you first notice the dust blob? December 2010

5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time ? No, over about a month of seeing the blob, it stayed pretty much exactly the same.

6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue? I returned the unit to Epson for a replacement which arrived within a couple days. The new projector looks fantastic and has shown no dust blobs over the couple months that I've had it running.


----------



## pacemaker

anyone compared this with a Sanyo Z3000/4000 please?


----------



## newfmp3

Does the 8700 or 9350 have dust blob issues? Isn't it the same chassis? or are internals different?


As for MM's screen shots, I am actually not that impressed with them. Looks a little washed out to me. I know screen shots are hardly an indication of the real picture...heck I can't a decent screen shot if my life depended on it, and I also realise the lights are mostly on in those shots which is impressive, and so is the viewing angle. But color/blacks wise....looks washed out. Now, I'm sure my monitors are messing with the image, but I've got 3 different monitors here at work and they all kinda give the same impression. Very clean setup though.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/19979385
> 
> 
> Ok, so I had pretty much decided on either a 8350 or an 8700. Really dependent on if I was willing to spend the extra $700 to get a free extra bulb and ???
> 
> Then today I stopped in to an old friends home theatre store (he has had this store for 10 plus years). Told him what I was looking for and he continues to tell me that I am nuts and should be buying a dlp projector (optoma hd2200) for $1500. Noting the deeper blacks and "better picture".
> 
> I have a walkout basement, with ambient light that I plan to control with blackout shades. I am planning throwing 110" 12 feet and the projector will be centered on the screen. Horizontal shift will not be an issue. The projector he was suggesting was $1500. At first he was trying to sell me a $5000 Runco.
> 
> Was also trying to sell me an Integra dtr-7.9 receiver, b stock for $600. I have never heard of this receiver and cannot find anything on it while googling, good or bad.
> 
> I have done very little research on dlp projectors and would like some input. Forget the fact that I know the guy. If he is nuts, please do tell and I will go forward with plan a. Thanks. Brandon



I can't comment on those models as I haven't seen them with my own eyes. But coming from DLP to the 8350, if I were to be honest, I do see fast movement issues and black level issues with the PJ. Is it bad...GOD NO, but my older DLP handled these two things better. Convergence is off on mine as well a bit but in this day and age there is no excuse for something so easily fixed to be off at all ( it's called QUALITY CONTROL.... EPSON) , and I fear the dust blob issue!


If I had to do it again, I'd go DLP again. What's funny is that I got my screen and pj around the same time frame. While waiting for orders to arrive, which took weeks, I was less concerned about liking the PJ then I was the screen ( HP screen). Once I got them installed, I am more content with my Screen then I am with the PJ.


Do I like my setup this time...yes. Do I love it like I loved my last setup with 4805/m2500 back in the day - No. Just not the upgrade I was hoping for but it was a good deal on the PJ, and for the price is great IF you do not get these silly issues with it. Bottom line, try PJ before you buy or buy from place where you can return it - that is my number 1 rule/advice to anyone with anything audio/video related.


----------



## GPope

Just got the 8350 a 2 weeks ago and have over 130 hours already! Picture is fantastic for such small cost. Dont walk, run to purchase this projector.

I was debating purchase of this Epson and the Mitsubishi HC4000, but decided on the Epson, because my brother bought another Epson two years ago for a couple of thousands of $$ and this has the same chip and LCD as his. He was and is throughly impressed.

I am almost embarrassed to tell anyone the price, for fear that they would think it is reasonable enough for them to purchase. Cost is the same what a good 50/55" LCD TV costs. I like the stigma of being the guy on the block with the theater room. LOL. Let the peasants eat Plasma!


----------



## smurf01501

As far as dust blobs. Is there anyone that had dust blobs and returned it and got a new unit that hasn't gotten any dust blobs since. I'm talking something like at least 6 months with no sign of them. I am still debating whether or not to swap mine at Best Buy again. If I'm just going to get another Dust Blob a month later I should probably just keep the one I have.


Jeff


----------



## newfmp3

this PJ hasn't been out 6 for months, which is why I asked about the 8700 getting them


----------



## gadget-zilla

Thank you to those who are responding to the informal poll regarding the dust blob -please keep them coming. It will really help paint a clear picture of this issue.


Ideally, if anyone who is technically saavy, and has figured out a way to clean them yourself and post some pictures, that would be great. I realize there maybe a concern of voiding the warranty if opening the unit. The downside of sending it in is getting a refurb unit in return with potentially other issues. A few have posted regarding conversion issues with their unit....so its a catch 22 situation.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Guy Lucky* 
*Bottom line...

With a "gray" screen...

You lose contrast, period.*

And ALL colors will not be "true", period.

Not to mention that the "gain" of the screen introduces its own set of "issues"...


But of course...YMMV.


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky
You do not lose contrast. The contrast stays the same. With a gray screen you will get deeper blacks and less whites, but the overall contrast is the same. Also saying you do not need a screen with gain when using the 8350 is incorrect. Needing gain has to do with three things:


1. Lumen output of projector

2. Size of image.

3. Throw distance.


I like to set my projectors up so that I can use economy mode and still have plenty of brightness. This gives me more lamp life and the ability to brighten (go to normal lamp) the image once the lamp has dimmed.


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mjg100* 
You do not lose contrast. The contrast stays the same. With a gray screen you will get deeper blacks and less whites, but the overall contrast is the same. Also saying you do not need a screen with gain when using the 8350 is incorrect. Needing gain has to do with three things:


1. Lumen output of projector

2. Size of image.

3. Throw distance.


I like to set my projectors up so that I can use economy mode and still have plenty of brightness. This gives me more lamp life and the ability to brighten (go to normal lamp) the image once the lamp has dimmed.
Agreed. The word contrast is often mis-used

And I go high gain as well with the intent of using eco mode until bulb ages. Trying to get the perfect image on a brand new bulb is not the way to go imho. You need to think further ahead, when the bulb gets hundreds or thousands of hours on it.


----------



## Davinleeds

Anyone placed an additional filter over the intake? Or any projector?


----------



## edmove

I commented on a shelf mount a few pages ago. I went a head and used that same shelf for my 8350. Fits perfectly on it. Glad I did this in my room over a projector mount.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* 
for what its worth - you are not alone with your dust blob concerns - that is exactly what is keeping me from pulling the trigger on this projector. Then, I see those AWESOME shots of what this projector can display, posted by MississippiMan, and I start drooling again - so yeah, I agree100% - why do these decisions have to be so difficult.


In regards to the Onkyo Integra, don't get so hung up on that particular brand. Denon and Marantz are both fine brands as well. If you want to make sure you can pass 3D signal, ensure HDMI is 1.4 supported on the receiver. Most of these new(er) receivers do lossless audio decoding from DolbyDigital and DTS -so that is apples to apples.


Rest, look at the RMS wattage output of the unit. Most provide plenty power to get a pretty loud output. Most subwoofers have their own amps so that 'thump' will be deep enough on its own so you receiver has enough wattage to feed the center/fronts and rear speakers without breaking a sweat.


Lower watts output receiver doesn't mean that its not as good as the other with the higher wattage output. It also has to do with how efficient the speakers are. If you speakers are not efficient, you'll have to crank the volume higher to get the loudness you want. *Speaker sensitivity ratings are at db SPL (sound pressure level). Higher the SPL number, the more efficient they are* - just keep these basics in mind and go with other bells and whistles you like in a particular receiver then buy it and hook it up and enjoy. Unless you have some serious money invested in high end audio gear, I doubt you'll hear THAT much difference between brand X vs brand Y. There are just way too many factors to take into consideration when deciding about that 'perfect' audio


I found this cool chart at this website that will give you an idea about speaker ratings.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spl.html 


The minor audio difference within most of the major brands in the same class, is not worth losing sleep over - IMO










good luck with your decision - I'm still having dust blob nightmares - waking me up in the middle of the night in cold sweats








Unfortunately there is more to sensitivity than that. Not all manufacturers use the same measurement method.


1. Some use anechoric sensitivity using 1 watt (2.83 volts for 8 ohm load).


2. Some give anechoric sensitivity using 2.83 volts rather than one watt. Difference is a 4 ohm speaker feed 2.83 volts is getting 2 watts. It is a way to appear that your speaker is 3db more sensitive.


3. Some use in room sensitivity. Can add aprox. 4db to the measurement.


4. Some use corner loaded in room. Can add aprox. 6db to the measurement.


5. Some use a pair of speakers measured in room. Can add aprox 7db to the measurement.


6. Some manufacturers use a higher bandwidth for measuring sensitivity. This can bump up the sensitivity aprox. 3db.


Lots of little tricks are used to fool buyers. Sensitivity ratings on speakers are about like contrast ratings on projectors. Much of the time the are BS. If the measurement method is not given, I always assume that it is an in room measurement and deduct 4db from the listed sensitivity. The reason that sensitivity is so important, it take twice the wattage to raise the sound pressure level (SPL) 3db.


In a good (treated room) you lose aprox. 3db for the doubling of distance, starting at one meter. So if the actual sensitivity of the speaker is 88db 1W/1M and your listening distance (treated room) is 4 meters (13') then the starting point for the speaker is 82db. If you want to be able to listen at reference level (105db) then the speaker will have to make up the (105-82) 23db difference.


1 w 82db

2w 85db

4w 88db

8w 91db

16w 94db

32w 97db

64w 100db

128w 103db

256w 106db


As you can see the wattage needed climbs pretty quickly. Also not taken into account is power compression which can be as much as 9bd loss and headroom needed of 3 to 6db. As you can see it takes a lot of power if your speakers are under 95db sensitivity. Sorry for the off topic. I am into the sound side as much if not more than the video side of HT.


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Davinleeds* 
Anyone placed an additional filter over the intake? Or any projector?
Yes. Go to a place like Walmart and look at the filters for the vacuum cleaners. You can usually find something there that can be modified.


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19983692
> 
> 
> Yes. Go to a place like Walmart and look at the filters for the vacuum cleaners. You can usually find something there that can be modified.



I think by adding an additional filter you might inhibit the air intake and possible overheat. I'm not sure that would be a good idea.


Jeff


----------



## ravenlocke

Any increase in heat will dramatically decrease bulb life. I am planning on putting tape over all my unused inputs when I get home today...


----------



## gadget-zilla

excellent details - certainly much more than what I provided.










In the end, hopefully, the requester got the needed feedback to make a good decision for himself - Thanks again for your added feedback.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19983665
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there is more to sensitivity than that. Not all manufacturers use the same measurement method.
> 
> 
> 1. Some use anechoric sensitivity using 1 watt (2.83 volts for 8 ohm load).
> 
> 
> 2. Some give anechoric sensitivity using 2.83 volts rather than one watt. Difference is a 4 ohm speaker feed 2.83 volts is getting 2 watts. It is a way to appear that your speaker is 3db more sensitive.
> 
> 
> 3. Some use in room sensitivity. Can add aprox. 4db to the measurement.
> 
> 
> 4. Some use corner loaded in room. Can add aprox. 6db to the measurement.
> 
> 
> 5. Some use a pair of speakers measured in room. Can add aprox 7db to the measurement.
> 
> 
> 6. Some manufacturers use a higher bandwidth for measuring sensitivity. This can bump up the sensitivity aprox. 3db.
> 
> 
> Lots of little tricks are used to fool buyers. Sensitivity ratings on speakers are about like contrast ratings on projectors. Much of the time the are BS. If the measurement method is not given, I always assume that it is an in room measurement and deduct 4db from the listed sensitivity. The reason that sensitivity is so important, it take twice the wattage to raise the sound pressure level (SPL) 3db.
> 
> 
> In a good (treated room) you lose aprox. 3db for the doubling of distance, starting at one meter. So if the actual sensitivity of the speaker is 88db 1W/1M and your listening distance (treated room) is 4 meters (13') then the starting point for the speaker is 82db. If you want to be able to listen at reference level (105db) then the speaker will have to make up the (105-82) 23db difference.
> 
> 
> 1 w 82db
> 
> 2w 85db
> 
> 4w 88db
> 
> 8w 91db
> 
> 16w 94db
> 
> 32w 97db
> 
> 64w 100db
> 
> 128w 103db
> 
> 256w 106db
> 
> 
> As you can see the wattage needed climbs pretty quickly. Also not taken into account is power compression which can be as much as 9bd loss and headroom needed of 3 to 6db. As you can see it takes a lot of power if your speakers are under 95db sensitivity. Sorry for the off topic. I am into the sound side as much if not more than the video side of HT.


----------



## gadget-zilla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/19983692
> 
> 
> Yes. Go to a place like Walmart and look at the filters for the vacuum cleaners. You can usually find something there that can be modified.



This is an excellent tip. Hopefully, that will help towards minimizing the dust entering into the unit.


Funny, I did something similar for the intake area for my home AC unit so it won't pick up the dust around the house, just didn't dawn on me to apply the same concept.


Cheers !!


----------



## Bdex75

Ok, I just pulled the trigger on an 8350 from visualapex. I called to order an 8700, but then realized that the price went up $100 on Monday. Also, with as little as I will watch this projector the "free" replacement bulb could be ten years out. Figured with this one I can put the extra $800 towards an "upgrade fund" for when 3d 1080p has been out for a few years.


I was talking to the visual apex sales guy and was discussing screens (which I did not buy) and his opinion was that painted on gray (like the behr silverscreen) would kill the picture of the 8350. And silver, while getting higher gain, will kill my off angle viewing. He thought both were un-necessary with a projector with the lumen output of the 8350 and suggested white.


For the short term I am going to project on a flat white wall and dial in my preferred screen size, probably 110".


It should be bootiful and I am starting to get excited.







Now I just need to hang the drywall and get taping. Appears the economy is better, had a couple different drywall contractors just no call/no show appointments.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I've been trying to find a quick source for the 8350 service manual before "exploring"... no luck. Any non-obvious things to beware of prior to turning the first screw? Meaning, do any of the housing screws also secure any internal stuff that would be thrown askew?


Also, just in my quick "no-screwdriver" once-over, the foam gasket on the lamp access door doesn't seal the entire perimeter. This could be a path for dust entry if the cooling system is pulling air through those gaps. Unless it's intentional...


I picked up a neutral density (and multi-coated) filter to slip in front of the lens to see if it works any serious magic with black levels. Should be fun!


----------



## techtre2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19977731
> 
> 
> I was pretty much settled on a 100" screen for my 8350 with a seating distance of 11'. However, me and the little lady were demoing out a couple of bluray's (Star Trek and Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen) last night just to be certain before I placed the order for my screen and suddenly she asked "Can we make the image bigger?". I said sure, and increased it to 110" and we both liked how much more immersive it felt.
> 
> 
> However, when we initially increased the image size my eyes felt like they were straining a little bit but after 5 minutes, they were fine. My question is, does anyone else deal with eyestrain from having a screen too big at a somewhat short distance with seating or is this just something your eyes will get used to?
> 
> 
> I'm all for a super huge screen but not at the expense of hurting my eyesight. I also play a lot of 360 so this is something else to consider (Lots of fast motion and eye movements)



I've got a 106" screen at about 11 feet. At first, my eyes kind of had trouble keeping up with the action in some movies. After a couple hundred hours now it seems as natural as watching my 50" plasma and if I could I'd go bigger! So I'd say yes, you'll get used to watching a larger image.


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19983645
> 
> 
> I commented on a shelf mount a few pages ago. I went a head and used that same shelf for my 8350. Fits perfectly on it. Glad I did this in my room over a projector mount.



I like that mount. Glad to see it fits the 8350. I plan to use the same one with mine. I wasn't looking forward to the hassle of undoing a ceiling mount whenever I needed to perform some type of maintenance on the projector.


----------



## pepsico

Okay, quick question about the projector..


I had it on last night, turned off all the lights and blanked the screen. I looked for any type of problem. On the right side of the screen, I noticed it was a bit brighter. Particularly, the top right area. Not too big of a deal, but I am curious as to why. I do have my projector about 2 feet to the right of the screen and am using lens shift to center it.


The other defect (if you want to call it that) I notice is almost a perfect circle of dim light roughly 2 inches in diameter in the center of the screen.


When watching anything, these are just about impossible to spot. But I do know they exist. Is the circle one of these, dust blobs?


Thanks


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *techtre2003* /forum/post/19985627
> 
> 
> I've got a 106" screen at about 11 feet. At first, my eyes kind of had trouble keeping up with the action in some movies. After a couple hundred hours now it seems as natural as watching my 50" plasma and if I could I'd go bigger! So I'd say yes, you'll get used to watching a larger image.



I appreciate the responses by you and 42Plasmaman. I decided to go with the 110" screen. I watched a few more movies last night with lots of action and movement and had no issues with eyestrain.


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pepsico* /forum/post/19985723
> 
> 
> Okay, quick question about the projector..
> 
> 
> I had it on last night, turned off all the lights and blanked the screen. I looked for any type of problem. On the right side of the screen, I noticed it was a bit brighter. Particularly, the top right area. Not too big of a deal, but I am curious as to why. I do have my projector about 2 feet to the right of the screen and am using lens shift to center it.
> 
> 
> The other defect (if you want to call it that) I notice is almost a perfect circle of dim light roughly 2 inches in diameter in the center of the screen.
> 
> 
> When watching anything, these are just about impossible to spot. But I do know they exist. Is the circle one of these, dust blobs?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes, that is a dust blob. I hate looking at a black screen. I'd be happier if I was ignorant of them.


----------



## IFLOPPEDITSUCKER

I'm torn between the 8350 and the Mitsu HC6800? I can get the Epson for $1100 with 30 hrs on it and the Mitsu w/100 hrs on it and the transfer of the BB warranty for $900? I'm really enamored with the Epson, but was curious regarding the Mitsu as well. Any suggestions? I've read through both threads dedicated to each PJ and can't find a direct comparison between these 2. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The room will be a basement in a townhome 14x24' with room darkening shades and curtains, so ambient light isn't too big of an issue.


----------



## Guy Lucky

+1 with gadget-zilla on the "filter" use on the furnace intake...


It reminded me that I had used "cheese-cloth" over all my home recirculation vents...

I leaning toward attaching some of it to the back, and possibly the bottom, of my PJ...


Might be less of an obstruction than an additional "filter"...

So possibly won't contribute to any additional heat buildup...


edmove,

I REALLY like your shelf mount...

Looks GREAT!!!



White or gray screen contrast...

The term "contrast" is simply the difference between "black and white"...

Not confusing...

Nor controversial...

If your screen is "gray"...

The whites aren't white, they are gray....

What little is "gained" in the blacks is "minimal"

PLUS...

ALL "colors" will suffer a slight "shift" with gray screens...

Especially "flesh tones"...

But, as always...

YMMV...


Me personally...

I prefer my whites to be white, my colors and flesh tones to be "TRUE"...

Simple...



May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## ravenlocke

Well, I have had my projector for two days now and here are my impressions so far.


I did quite a bit of research into what projector to buy to maximize my relatively lean budget and quickly came to the conclusion that this projector gave the most bang for the buck. I ordered it on Amazon last Friday with free two day shipping with Amazon Prime for an anticipated delivery date of 2-8. I also ordered a 100 inch 16:9 Favi Electric Screen from Amazon for the same delivery date. I was very pleased to receive them this tuesday right on time! This projector is definitely large. I have it mounted on the inside of a glass coffee table with a 10 foot throw to my screen. I have the screen mounted in my living room directly over my balcony so it looks like just a valance for my curtains...until I press the magic button! lol The screen is very quiet and looks pretty impressive when in operation. It gives the whole setup some wow factor. The build quality is significantly better then I was expecting and the screens 1.4 gain gives some added pop when in cinema mode. There is no sparkle or texture apparent and it is really a beautiful screen. The projector works amazingly well. During the day, dynamic mode is very usable with the expected sacrifice in black level. My living room is very well lit and I am impressed that I can still watch tv and other misc stuff with no problems. The color range is surprisingly accurate for a dynamic setting as well. At night I have total darkness and this projector knocks my socks off in cinema mode while watching blurays. I am still puttering around with the different modes to see what I like best, but cinema does seem to give the darkest blacks. I turned the iris on to fast mode. I also adjusted the color temp to 7500 and activated epson pure white mode as well. Its better then being in the theatre! I messed around with the other settings as well, but eventually put everything else on default. I have never seen a display device that was so well calibrated out of the box. This device is clearly targeted to home theatre nuts!







The fan is whisper quiet and the pj seems to run cool as well. My convergence is decent, but not perfect. My red seems to be shifted by one pixel, but it is utterly unnoticeable in real use. The image from bluray is razor sharp and clean and I have not noticed any motion blur. No dust blobs either! *knocks on wood*


All in all, I am thrilled with my purchase so far.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I have a question. Ive had my 8350 now for about 2 months and i have it connected to my ps3. For the first time tonight i decided to watch a regualr dvd (non blu ray). I noticed there were black bars on the sides and i think its called letter box but im not sure. So i went through all of my regular dvds and some were normal with the whole screen covered and some had the bars on the top and bottom which is widescreen and normal but i cant figure out why some of the movies had the bars on the sides and how to make it a normal picture. So if someone could help me figure it out or help me understand something i dont know it would be GREATLY appreciated because i dont like that little square box. I also for the first time realized how much better blu-ray looks compared to a dvd and how bad a regular dvd looks especialy when comparing the 8350 to my old hc720. THANKS FOR THE HELP


----------



## N1GHTRA1N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/19987512
> 
> 
> I have a question. Ive had my 8350 now for about 2 months and i have it connected to my ps3. For the first time tonight i decided to watch a regualr dvd (non blu ray). I noticed there were black bars on the sides and i think its called letter box but im not sure. So i went through all of my regular dvds and some were normal with the whole screen covered and some had the bars on the top and bottom which is widescreen and normal but i cant figure out why some of the movies had the bars on the sides and how to make it a normal picture. So if someone could help me figure it out or help me understand something i dont know it would be GREATLY appreciated because i dont like that little square box. I also for the first time realized how much better blu-ray looks compared to a dvd and how bad a regular dvd looks especialy when comparing the 8350 to my old hc720. THANKS FOR THE HELP



Some DVD's were non anamorphic and were basically a static 4:3 image with bars on top and bottom. When played on a TV/Projector this is displayed as any 4:3 image would be with bars on sides too. It looks stupid but that is the way it is. The only DVD I can remember that I own like that is Rocky II on DVD (original release) I have others but can't remember them.

http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articl...ic235demo.html


----------



## pepsico




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smurf01501* /forum/post/19986204
> 
> 
> Yes, that is a dust blob. I hate looking at a black screen. I'd be happier if I was ignorant of them.



Thanks for your response. Now I'm wondering if I should send it to Epson, or just deal with it. It doesn't really change the screen quality and no one will really be able to tell. But it still bugs me.


----------



## gadget-zilla

Certainly is a very nice looking mount. I would have just one concern - from the pictures, it appears the projector rests on the glass shelf and the glass is just large enough to surround the projector. Out here in earthquake land, in Southern California, this would pose a concern.


At present, I'm using a peerless Vector pro - an old wall style mount. The projector is screwed to the plate of the moun - keeping it secured from falling.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19983645
> 
> 
> I commented on a shelf mount a few pages ago. I went a head and used that same shelf for my 8350. Fits perfectly on it. Glad I did this in my room over a projector mount.


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pepsico* /forum/post/19987859
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response. Now I'm wondering if I should send it to Epson, or just deal with it. It doesn't really change the screen quality and no one will really be able to tell. But it still bugs me.



That is what I'm debating right now. I at least have the option to do a swap at Best Buy because I've only had it for a month. I already did it once however for a dust blob. Now I have another dust blob on my new unit. I am afraid that I'll swap it and either get more blobs or convergence issues. Part of me wants to be done worrying about it and enjoy it. I have a 4 year warranty. If the blobs ever get too bad I can always bring it in to Best Buy for a cleaning or something. It sucks either way.


Jeff


----------



## rsnewto

Anyone replace their Panasonic PT-AE900U with the 8350? If so, how much better is the picture on the 8350? I use it primarily to watch blu-rays in a light controlled room on a 100" screen.


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnewto* /forum/post/19988531
> 
> 
> Anyone replace their Panasonic PT-AE900U with the 8350? If so, how much better is the picture on the 8350? I use it primarily to watch blu-rays in a light controlled room on a 100" screen.



I just replaced my AE700 with the 8350. The difference is night and day. It is so much brighter and has much better blacks. For me it feels like I have a huge LCD tv on the wall. I never felt that way with my AE700. It always seemed a little dull.


Jeff


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19983645
> 
> 
> I commented on a shelf mount a few pages ago. I went a head and used that same shelf for my 8350. Fits perfectly on it. Glad I did this in my room over a projector mount.



Do you have concerns about air flow or "pooling" of hot air? It looks like the rear intakes are pretty close to the wall.


I have a situation where my 8350 is installed in the soffit of a false ceiling/starfield - it has plently of room around the actual projector, but I'm trying to work out if I need to duct in a source of cooler air to keep things out of the red.


Anyone else have comments or advice on similar "constricted" installs?


----------



## Johnny_H

8350 #1 purchased from BB on 1/4/11 = no dust problem after 50 hours. Unit sent back for other issues, though.


8350 #2

1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? Unit received 1/11/11.

2) where purchased? Epson Store Replacement (Brand NEW)

3) did you purchase extended warranty? No

4) When did you first notice the dust blob?

1st dust blob appeared after ~40 hours and was 4" in size on 92" screen. 2nd 4" diameter visible blob occurred ~100 hours.

5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time?

At 150 hours there were many more visible green dust specs visible on a black screen, too many to count. These specs were too small to cause a blob and were visible when focusing on the panels.

6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?

This unit was sent back for poor alignment, red haze on black screen, and blue and red lines on white screen. The dust blob pushed me over my tolerance for this one. It took until 2/4/11 for an acceptable replacement to arrive. I put almost 200 hours on this unit before it was sent back and the amount of small dust specs on a black screen was cringe worthy. Yet, only two blobs were visible on a dark screen.


8350 #3 = DOA Epson refurb in plain white box. Immediately sent back due to hardware failure. Bummer.


8350 #4 (This unit looks fantastic and I want to keep dust out!)

1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? Arrived on 2/4/11.

2) where purchased? Epson store replacement (Brand NEW)

3) did you purchase extended warranty? No

4) When did you first notice the dust blob? 2/5/11 less than 10 hours into use. When I first turned this on new there was no dust whatsoever on the panels, no blobs or specs, it was clean as can be. Blob #1 appeared the very next morning.

5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time?

So far at ~60 hours only the one, barely noticeable dust blob has occurred.

Upon noticing the first dust blob I taped up the unused inputs and also masked over the lens shift controls as well. However, there seems to be more and more small specs of dust visible on the panels as time goes on. If you focus on the panels looking at a white or green screen you can probably count 30 or so small specs.

6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?

Only one barely visible blob on a dark screen at 60 hours, so I am content at the moment. But, watching these small specs of dust buildup on the panels so quickly worries me. My hope is that the smaller specs are possibly from the bulb breaking in and they will stop at some point. My fear is that there is a dust leak somewhere and these small particles will continue to settle up on the panels overtime until it needs to be cleaned.



I'm so far extremely happy with the 8350. Really! The upgrade was well worth it over my HC720, even with the hassles of sending these back to epson over the past month. The replacement pj they last sent me is very impressive. Right now I'm just carefully monitoring the dust buildup and hopefully it doesn't become noticeable under regular viewing. It just feels like this one might be on borrowed time with such buildup after only 60 hours. Fingers are crossed and solutions are welcomed.


----------



## spunkyinkc

Does anyone else have issues with the Epson 8350 and Directv HD-DVR's? It seems like the picture is horrible. It seems dull and not clear. This is very obvious on network stations, such as ABC, CBS, NBC. Other HD channels don't look as bad. Just wondering if there are some setting to improve this.


----------



## Severum88

I suggest you set your DirecTV DVR to ouput native resolution and let your 8350 do the conversion. Could be why you are seeing some quality issues between HD channels. Pretty clear with my DirecTV DVR and 8350.


Sev


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 8350 #1 purchased from BB on 1/4/11 = no dust problem after 50 hours. Unit sent back for other issues, though.
> 
> 
> 8350 #2
> 
> 1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? Unit received 1/11/11.
> 
> 2) where purchased? Epson Store Replacement (Brand NEW)
> 
> 3) did you purchase extended warranty? No
> 
> 4) When did you first notice the dust blob?
> 
> 1st dust blob appeared after ~40 hours and was 4" in size on 92" screen. 2nd 4" diameter visible blob occurred ~100 hours.
> 
> 5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time?
> 
> At 150 hours there were many more visible green dust specs visible on a black screen, too many to count. These specs were too small to cause a blob and were visible when focusing on the panels.
> 
> 6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?
> 
> This unit was sent back for poor alignment, red haze on black screen, and blue and red lines on white screen. The dust blob pushed me over my tolerance for this one. It took until 2/4/11 for an acceptable replacement to arrive. I put almost 200 hours on this unit before it was sent back and the amount of small dust specs on a black screen was cringe worthy. Yet, only two blobs were visible on a dark screen.
> 
> 
> 8350 #3 = DOA Epson refurb in plain white box. Immediately sent back due to hardware failure. Bummer.
> 
> 
> 8350 #4 (This unit looks fantastic and I want to keep dust out!)
> 
> 1) how long since your original 8350 purchase? Arrived on 2/4/11.
> 
> 2) where purchased? Epson store replacement (Brand NEW)
> 
> 3) did you purchase extended warranty? No
> 
> 4) When did you first notice the dust blob? 2/5/11 less than 10 hours into use. When I first turned this on new there was no dust whatsoever on the panels, no blobs or specs, it was clean as can be. Blob #1 appeared the very next morning.
> 
> 5) If on 2nd or 3rd unit or 4th unit - does the dust blob issue getting worse over time?
> 
> So far at ~60 hours only the one, barely noticeable dust blob has occurred.
> 
> Upon noticing the first dust blob I taped up the unused inputs and also masked over the lens shift controls as well. However, there seems to be more and more small specs of dust visible on the panels as time goes on. If you focus on the panels looking at a white or green screen you can probably count 30 or so small specs.
> 
> 6) at present, where do you stand with your dust blob issue?
> 
> Only one barely visible blob on a dark screen at 60 hours, so I am content at the moment. But, watching these small specs of dust buildup on the panels so quickly worries me. My hope is that the smaller specs are possibly from the bulb breaking in and they will stop at some point. My fear is that there is a dust leak somewhere and these small particles will continue to settle up on the panels overtime until it needs to be cleaned.
> 
> 
> I'm so far extremely happy with the 8350. Really! The upgrade was well worth it over my HC720, even with the hassles of sending these back to epson over the past month. The replacement pj they last sent me is very impressive. Right now I'm just carefully monitoring the dust buildup and hopefully it doesn't become noticeable under regular viewing. It just feels like this one might be on borrowed time with such buildup after only 60 hours. Fingers are crossed and solutions are welcomed.



This utterly terrifies me. I don't have the patience or inclination to keep sending my pj back for dust blobs. Hopefully mine is a good one! *knocks on wood*


----------



## spunkyinkc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Severum88* /forum/post/19989017
> 
> 
> I suggest you set your DirecTV DVR to ouput native resolution and let your 8350 do the conversion. Could be why you are seeing some quality issues between HD channels. Pretty clear with my DirecTV DVR and 8350.
> 
> 
> Sev



Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give that a shot this weekend.


----------



## jays_on

I'm not sure if this is allowed, but there has been some discussion about receivers. I own this one and it has been fantastic. Is there better? uh, yeah, but this is a killer price for what it is. To make the deal better, if you need speakers you can add the 5.1 set with it, all for under $400.


----------



## Johnny_H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/19989087
> 
> 
> This utterly terrifies me. I don't have the patience or inclination to keep sending my pj back for dust blobs. Hopefully mine is a good one! *knocks on wood*



I think what I went through is probably the closest to worst-case scenario as anyone could expect. Even so, epson made it right in the end with limited hassle. This really is a great projector for the money. My jaw is on the floor every time it's on. This is also my first 1080p display, just wow.


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* /forum/post/19989616
> 
> 
> I think what I went through is probably the closest to worst-case scenario as anyone could expect. Even so, epson made it right in the end with limited hassle. This really is a great projector for the money. My jaw is on the floor every time it's on. This is also my first 1080p display, just wow.



As far as dust blobs go. I wish they would realize that these are common and provide people with an access panel and instructions on how to clean the panels themselves. For me this would be a great selling point. Obviously I would prefer not to get them at all. But if they are having a hard time controlling that, I wouldn't mind cleaning it myself if it was made easy.


Jeff


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

Good afternoon, all. As you can see, I am new to the forum, but I have been obsessed with projectors for years now lol. I'm getting the 8350 next week, & I also purchased an Elite Spectrum 100h Screen (100 in) as well. I was trying to keep my budget around $1500, but it's hard to do when you're obsessed with home theater & electronics period!


Moving on, I wanted to know if I'll have to make any connections from the screen to the pj, because I've been reading online & some say yay, others nay. Of course, I would like whichever's the most beneficial/convenient, but I'm an electrician, & I hate running wires lol (The irony, I know ;-), so the less wiring I have to do, the better.


Also, as far as surround sound goes, I'm looking into purchasing a pretty decent set, with wireless capabilities, & I also read that there's a possibility I might need a receiver to get the sound from whatever the projector's displaying to come out through the surround sound setup. Is the receiver required, or are there ways around it, which I can go directly from the surround sound to the projector? I'll have a DVR box, as well as an Xbox 360, which I'll be using as my primary source for gaming as well as movies. Will the receiver be necessary for all my sound needs, as far as the 360 & DVR are concerned?


Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've spent hours upon hours of research in the past month or so, & I figured my best bet would be to ask someone who's been where I'm trying to go lol. Thanks again.


----------



## edmove

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DGF* 
Do you have concerns about air flow or "pooling" of hot air? It looks like the rear intakes are pretty close to the wall.


I have a situation where my 8350 is installed in the soffit of a false ceiling/starfield - it has plently of room around the actual projector, but I'm trying to work out if I need to duct in a source of cooler air to keep things out of the red.


Anyone else have comments or advice on similar "constricted" installs?
There is an easy 6'' space back there so no problem on airspace. I used to have a box there. Look at the first photo and you can see the blue area. I got one message on it overheating while in that box so I started looking for other options. I really like the shelf and it is workout out great.


----------



## newfmp3

you guys with dust issues, are you ceiling mounted or table? I'm wondering if dust is getting into the image shift controls.


----------



## jays_on

Good question, I've had my pj for a almost 400hrs. Never any blobs. I ceiling mounted it a few weeks ago, and I now have 2. Coincidence?


----------



## Johnny_H

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
you guys with dust issues, are you ceiling mounted or table? I'm wondering if dust is getting into the image shift controls.
Table Mounted for me. I put tape over the lens controls, and just for kicks I taped over the seam to the lamp door as well. It appears they tried to use thin strips of foam on this door to keep dust out. Since doing so, no new blobs have formed, but I am still getting an accumulation of fine particles on the panels. I also have a new air filter on the way just in case this one isn't sitting properly.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

@ Larry - the only reason I can think of that you'd need to run anything between the projector and the screen is if you had a retractable screen, and wanted to connect the trigger out to the screen to drop when you power on the projector.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte*
@ Larry - the only reason I can think of that you'd need to run anything between the projector and the screen is if you had a retractable screen, and wanted to connect the trigger out to the screen to drop when you power on the projector.
Thats what kinda threw me off as well, because the screen is electric/motorized & comes with a remote, so I didn't see any reason to connect the screen to the projector, when I could just press a button on the remote to raise/lower it. Thanks for the reply. As far as the receiver being necessary for sound from the DVR/Xbox 360 to the projector, any info?


----------



## DGF

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Severum88* 
I suggest you set your DirecTV DVR to ouput native resolution and let your 8350 do the conversion. Could be why you are seeing some quality issues between HD channels. Pretty clear with my DirecTV DVR and 8350.


Sev
I also do what Sev does, and the picture quality from my HR22-100 DirecTV DVR is always really great. If you're using HDMI and an HD signal you should be be able to get a great picture.


Dave


----------



## smurf01501

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* 
Table Mounted for me. I put tape over the lens controls, and just for kicks I taped over the seam to the lamp door as well. It appears they tried to use thin strips of foam on this door to keep dust out. Since doing so, no new blobs have formed, but I am still getting an accumulation of fine particles on the panels. I also have a new air filter on the way just in case this one isn't sitting properly.


Mine is on a shelf. I'd like to tape over the Lens shift but I occasionally have to readjust. I'm starting to think that they put these projectors together and let dust in at the factory. They probably had some dust in the units to start. I bet the people who don't have dust blobs are the ones who got a clean unit to begin with. Just a theory.


Jeff


----------



## MelCarl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* 
Table Mounted for me. I put tape over the lens controls, and just for kicks I taped over the seam to the lamp door as well. It appears they tried to use thin strips of foam on this door to keep dust out. Since doing so, no new blobs have formed, but I am still getting an accumulation of fine particles on the panels. I also have a new air filter on the way just in case this one isn't sitting properly.
I've been visiting this thread along with the one for the 8700UB for several weeks now. Hardly a day goes by that I don't read about someone having dust blob issues. I'm very impressed with the specs on these two units and will most likely get one or the other. I've been using a Panny AX100 for several years and before that I had an Infocus DLP PJ. Convergence has always been right on and never an issue with dust blobs... not that I would expect that with DLP. I wonder why it is that all of these issues are coming up with Epson and I never had them with my Panny which is LCD. One would think a design several years later would be more advanced so as not to have the dust issue. At this point, I will most likely go with the 8700 because if the more impressive blacks, even though I need brightness too. I'm hoping the better contrast will make up for the lumen loss. Not really needing any answers here, just venting...


----------



## ikecomp

Quote:

Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* 
Thats what kinda threw me off as well, because the screen is electric/motorized & comes with a remote, so I didn't see any reason to connect the screen to the projector, when I could just press a button on the remote to raise/lower it. Thanks for the reply. As far as the receiver being necessary for sound from the DVR/Xbox 360 to the projector, any info?
A receiver isn't "necessary" but you will need something to send the audio output from your devices to since the pj itself can not produce/output sound. However, going through a receiver and out to your speakers would be the easiest way to go about it.


----------



## Johnny_H

Quote:

Originally Posted by *smurf01501* 
Mine is on a shelf. I'd like to tape over the Lens shift but I occasionally have to readjust. I'm starting to think that they put these projectors together and let dust in at the factory. They probably had some dust in the units to start. I bet the people who don't have dust blobs are the ones who got a clean unit to begin with. Just a theory.


Jeff
Jeff, I like your theory and hope you are correct. I don't have enough hours on the new unit to see if it is getting progressively worse. It seems to have stabilized a bit since taping everything up. Could be purely coincidental. If what we're seeing is merely remnant dust in the units from assembly then it won't be a long term worry. I don't care much about the dust in there already as there is virtually no impact on image quality yet. I just want to take advantage of this great panel technology for many years to come.


----------



## gadget-zilla

Though I too would like to think that the dust blobs are coming from the factory but If I'm not mistaken, there are owners here who had none to start with, then developed them shortly thereafter which puts a big question in my mind.


Quote:

Originally Posted by *Johnny_H* 
Jeff, I like your theory and hope you are correct. I don't have enough hours on the new unit to see if it is getting progressively worse. It seems to have stabilized a bit since taping everything up. Could be purely coincidental. If what we're seeing is merely remnant dust in the units from assembly then it won't be a long term worry. I don't care much about the dust in there already as there is virtually no impact on image quality yet. I just want to take advantage of this great panel technology for many years to come.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Hoping to perform some pre-emptive countermeasures against dust and FOD, and looking for easy performance upgrades, I gave up the search for a service manual and ... since more heads working on these gizmos is always better...


Working carefully, figured out the way inside the 8350:


1) Find a clean space with plenty of room!


2) Remove the two screws along the upper edge of the rear panel.


3) Set unit bottom-up. Remove the screws securing the side panels. Swing the bottom edge out and carefully disengage the top-edge clips.


IMPORTANT!: there is a flex cable connected to the side button panel! Disengage the cable at the button panel by sliding the little black lock on the connector outwards. Stow the cable inside the unit.


4) Remove all the screws from the bottom housing. If you miss one, you will know it!


5) Turn unit right side up, keeping everything held together.


6 ) IMPORTANT!: There is a flex cable connected to the top panel button board. It appears to be a simple pull-out release. I sure hope it is.. ; - )


Once righted, partially lift away the upper housing and disconnect the flex cable, then behold the inner secrets of the 8350.


6) Let's see what we can do to make a good unit better!



NOTE: I did this disassy right around midnight... I believe I covered all the bases but do this at your own risk, etc.


----------



## LonnieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spunkyinkc* /forum/post/19988918
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have issues with the Epson 8350 and Directv HD-DVR's? It seems like the picture is horrible. It seems dull and not clear. This is very obvious on network stations, such as ABC, CBS, NBC. Other HD channels don't look as bad. Just wondering if there are some setting to improve this.



My recent experiance....


I have two HR20's and one HR24. When I got my 8350 (replaced a broken Infocus projector), I hooked it to the HR20 in that spot. Infocus was using Component. Used HDMI for the 8350. Looked great for about two weeks before I tore things down and rearranged the setup in my family room. When I hooked things back up, I used the other HR20 (for reasons unrelated to this topic) and was very unhappy with the picture quality of both SD & HD. It was not where I had been when I first installed. After checking cables and settings, I got the HR24 and tried it. Back to where the first HR20 was. Then put the first HR20 back in. Same quality as the HR24 and as I first experianced. Put the suspect HR20 in and poor picture quality again. Switched over to component and the quality is better than HDMI. Can't explain it, but this particular unit is somehow introducing noise in the HDMI output.


Have you tried both component and HDMI to see if their is any difference?


I also run all my receivers in Native Mode as others have suggested and let the video device do the final work.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/19990434
> 
> 
> A receiver isn't "necessary" but you will need something to send the audio output from your devices to since the pj itself can not produce/output sound. However, going through a receiver and out to your speakers would be the easiest way to go about it.



Gotcha. Thanks for the info.


----------



## bishopt

So Im looking at teh epsomn 8350, and need some installation advice. I'm trying to decide on screen size and mouting locations. So here are my details, I want to mount the projector about ~13ft back, ceiling mount. My question is that it's not clear to me how much lens shift I have, my ceilings only go up to about 90" so I want to mount it close to the ceiling but not sure how high I can go and also for 110" screen how far back is the ideal mounting location. Thanks...


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fox422* /forum/post/19966163
> 
> 
> I called Epson 2 weeks ago for a dust blobs problem. They decided to send me a new unit right away. Before sending my 2 months old projector I tried to place a cardboard at 4 feet of the lens and adjusted the picture size to the smallest. After that I played with the focus. And Bang ! My God it's full of stars ! I mean dusts. I was like looking at the sky when far away from any lights. Lots and lots of red, green and blu, dusts of all sises. But only three were visible. And my theater is far from dusty... The new unit arrived already with one little green blob. But it's very hard to spot. I'd be more than happy if it stays like that. But I'm afraid it will get worst.
> 
> 
> As for the exchange Epson CS was fantastic.



I took this picture with a very slow shutter. It's amasing that only three of those dusts were visible. The worst one was the big green on the high right.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bishopt* /forum/post/19992038
> 
> 
> So Im looking at teh epsomn 8350, and need some installation advice. I'm trying to decide on screen size and mouting locations. So here are my details, I want to mount the projector about ~13ft back, ceiling mount. My question is that it's not clear to me how much lens shift I have, my ceilings only go up to about 90" so I want to mount it close to the ceiling but not sure how high I can go and also for 110" screen how far back is the ideal mounting location. Thanks...



I'm hitting a 110" screen from about 11' so you'll be fine there. You can get up to about a 130" screen at 13'.


With a 110" screen you should be able to flush mount the projector and drop to at least 1' from the ground with the lens shift, maybe lower from 13' back.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

I'm at 150+ hours and no dust blobs but glad to see someone stepping up to help out the 8350 owners who have the issue.


If anyone else decides to perform these steps, please take pictures of the procedure/steps which will help clarify the delicate disassembly.


TAGS for future searches: clean cleaning dust blob ring spot circle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/19990825
> 
> 
> Hoping to perform some pre-emptive countermeasures against dust and FOD, and looking for easy performance upgrades, I gave up the search for a service manual and ... since more heads working on these gizmos is always better...
> 
> 
> Working carefully, figured out the way inside the 8350:
> 
> 
> 1) Find a clean space with plenty of room!
> 
> 
> 2) Remove the two screws along the upper edge of the rear panel.
> 
> 
> 3) Set unit bottom-up. Remove the screws securing the side panels. Swing the bottom edge out and carefully disengage the top-edge clips.
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT!: there is a flex cable connected to the side button panel! Disengage the cable at the button panel by sliding the little black lock on the connector outwards. Stow the cable inside the unit.
> 
> 
> 4) Remove all the screws from the bottom housing. If you miss one, you will know it!
> 
> 
> 5) Turn unit right side up, keeping everything held together.
> 
> 
> 6 ) IMPORTANT!: There is a flex cable connected to the top panel button board. It appears to be a simple pull-out release. I sure hope it is.. ; - )
> 
> 
> Once righted, partially lift away the upper housing and disconnect the flex cable, then behold the inner secrets of the 8350.
> 
> 
> 6) Let's see what we can do to make a good unit better!
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: I did this disassy right around midnight... I believe I covered all the bases but do this at your own risk, etc.


----------



## Fox422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/19993861
> 
> 
> I'm at 150+ hours and no dust blobs but glad to see someone stepping up to help out the 8350 owners who have the issue.
> 
> 
> If anyone else decides to perform these steps, please take pictures of the procedure/steps which will help clarify the delicate disassembly.
> 
> 
> TAGS for future searches: clean cleaning dust blob ring spot



I second that ! Thanks SonyCrusader for the exploration and maps are always helping.


----------



## forkdeath

Couple questions now that I have this unit. Just want to squeeze all I can out of it.


Without going through the 115 pages here, I would like to try out other peoples recommended setting (tweaks) for this projector. Any quick links? etc?


Any tips for improving non blu-ray performance? For example kids and I have been down loading HD versions of 'Chuck' on ROKU (Amazon VOD). I would expected a little better quality. Seems a bit soft and artifacts, same for a lot of HD programs on Dish.


PS3, ONKYO TX-SR606 (HDMI video pass through), Dish Network VIP612, ROKU, Pull Down Gain 1.0 white screen. 108", distance 10-11 feet. Connections all HDMI.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *forkdeath* /forum/post/19995002
> 
> 
> Without going through the 115 pages here, I would like to try out other peoples recommended setting (tweaks) for this projector. Any quick links? etc?


 http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## bishopt

So I'm really struggling between the mits4000 and the epson 8350...the one thing that is really make think twice about the epsoin is all of the issues that I have read with the dust blobs....trying to find one local that I can see...can't find any of the mits to look at...wonder if there really is a dust issue...ugggh


----------



## croaker978




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bishopt* /forum/post/19996325
> 
> 
> So I'm really struggling between the mits4000 and the epson 8350...the one thing that is really make think twice about the epsoin is all of the issues that I have read with the dust blobs....trying to find one local that I can see...can't find any of the mits to look at...wonder if there really is a dust issue...ugggh



I am with you bishopt, dust is the only thing stopping me from ordering one of these pjs. My x10 just had both the hdmi and dvi ports die on it and I dont want to spend the time and money to send it off to see if it can be fixed. I had intended to order from NewEgg, but may run over to the box store (BB) and grab one that way if I have issues I can take the bloody thing back.


BTW I went to AU also, man it was good to finally see that little crystal football on the plains. WDE


----------



## lakersin2025

Quote:

Originally Posted by *bishopt*
So I'm really struggling between the mits4000 and the epson 8350...the one thing that is really make think twice about the epsoin is all of the issues that I have read with the dust blobs....trying to find one local that I can see...can't find any of the mits to look at...wonder if there really is a dust issue...ugggh
I've had my 8350 for 3 weeks now and put 165 hours on it so far and not one problem with dust or anything. My house is kind of dusty right now too because it hasn't rained in a while and I live on the edge if a huge forest with dust and pollen in full affect. Im glad it's raining all next week.


----------



## Guy Lucky

It's been about 1.5 weeks for me and I checked my 8350 last night for "blobs"...

The black screen showed none...


I have a wood burning stove in the adjacent room so I'm concerned about all the dust/ash floating around...


I taped over all the unused inputs and will be adding "cheese cloth" to the outside of the filter today...


Epson needs to tutor us on the cleaning procedure...

And not try and void the warranty when we do it...

This would be beneficial for them in the long run...


Overall I'm VERY HAPPY with the performance of this PJ...


Cannot recommend it enough...


As another member said...

It looks like a giant LCD TV hanging on the wall !!!


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smurf01501* /forum/post/19983729
> 
> 
> I think by adding an additional filter you might inhibit the air intake and possible overheat. I'm not sure that would be a good idea.
> 
> 
> Jeff



I did not say to add it. Find something that will do a better job and cut it to fit.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IFLOPPEDITSUCKER* /forum/post/19986239
> 
> 
> I'm torn between the 8350 and the Mitsu HC6800? I can get the Epson for $1100 with 30 hrs on it and the Mitsu w/100 hrs on it and the transfer of the BB warranty for $900? I'm really enamored with the Epson, but was curious regarding the Mitsu as well. Any suggestions? I've read through both threads dedicated to each PJ and can't find a direct comparison between these 2. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The room will be a basement in a townhome 14x24' with room darkening shades and curtains, so ambient light isn't too big of an issue.



I would get the Mits.


----------



## Ebola Cereal

Hey guys, I just wanted to say thanks for all the input on the 8350. The comments here convinced me it was the projector best suited to my needs. It replaced a 7-yr old Infocus X1, so it's a big step up in every respect. I do have a couple of questions though.


I've only put 8 or 9 hours on it so far, and it has been great right out of the box, with very little tweeking needed. I noticed, however, that the lamp hour counter is still stuck at 0H. Does it increase in 10-hour increments or do I have an issue that needs addressing?


Also, the main seating position is right under the projector. While the 8350 is very quiet, I found the Auto Iris to be rather noisy, not to mention the brightness of the picture would change noticeably depending on what was on the screen -- at times it made the picture appear to flicker when set to High Speed. Is this something you get use to or do many of you simply turn off the Auto Iris feature.


----------



## darealgerk

The hours don't start updating until you hit 10 hours.


----------



## darockk

i checked mine last night for dust blobs and at first didnt see anything when set to a 130 inch screen, but when set to a smaller size like 90inch, i can easily see 2 dust blobs. they look like grey circles. cant see these unless the screen is totally black though.


so anyone checking for dust blobs, make sure that you adjust the screen size to the smallest possible setting otherwise you might miss them.

,

has anyone found a way to clean this yet?


----------



## Hagopian

For those folks experiencing dust blobs...I'm wondering a few things...and also offer a few observations...


When looking for dust blobs, zoom out, and turn your focus wheel...and you lens will focus on them with amazing detail. You will be able to see green, red and blue fibers...most of which are too small to be seen on screen during normal viewing, but the big ones, they will show up.


Also...I have my projector off center, and thus I'm using some lens shift....I am wondering for this who have dust blobs, are you using lens shift? Curious if maybe the lens assembly being moved off center, opens up any crevices allowing dust to penetrate.


I will be taking this sucker apart, and I will be putting together a pictorial of my findings for all.


----------



## Rustyf7

I am looking at buying an Epson 8350 and have been reading this thread. Now I am concerned a bit with this dust ball problem. So my question is would I be better off getting this from Best Buy with their 4 year warranty or buy it online (probably get it a bit cheaper than Best Buy) use my American Express which will double the 2 year manufacturer warranty from Epson at no additional cost?


When you have the dust ball problem and you take it in to Best Buy are they just going to replace the unit or will they want to keep it and repair it? If the unit breaks in 3 years and 6 months will Best Buy replace it with the comparable model of the time or will they repair it?


----------



## darockk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19999878
> 
> 
> For those folks experiencing dust blobs...I'm wondering a few things...and also offer a few observations...
> 
> 
> Also...I have my projector off center, and thus I'm using some lens shift....I am wondering for this who have dust blobs, are you using lens shift? Curious if maybe the lens assembly being moved off center, opens up any crevices allowing dust to penetrate.
> 
> 
> I will be taking this sucker apart, and I will be putting together a pictorial of my findings for all.



i did use pretty much maximum lens shift to the right for about 2 months when i first bought it. now it's ceiling mounted centrally so only using vertical lens shift but not extreme.


no more dust blobs have appeared since then


----------



## Sethdavidsdad

New epson 8350 on it's way, what is the best throw distance?

I have a 120" screen.

Room length is 18' can go as close as 13'

At what distance will I get the best results??


----------



## MNf250

Hey guys first time poster, 5 year lurker. Former h30 owner with a new 8350 and after 70hrs hey NO dust blobs yet!










But anyway i was hoping to find a expert with a 8350 to come over and check out my theater and kind of compare convergence and some motion blur to see if im just picky.


So if any one lives around the tc area, hit me up with a pm.


----------



## ravenlocke

I thought my convergence was off by about one pixel for my red panel, but it turns out being on the far extremes for zoom and lenses shift adds a very slight distortion. I slightly moved to get out of that extreme and my convergence is dead on! I am seriously loving this projector. No signs of dust blobs so far!


----------



## joeags

Your Amex card should give you one extra year on the warranty - mine says double or to one year max. In addition, you will have a max benefit of $1K on the extended warranty. Pretty close on this item.


I've never used a Best Buy warranty, but as far as I understand, you are getting a warranty on that individual unit. The second you turn it in, the warranty is over. So you won't be able to utilize the excellent return policy from Epson without breaking your Best Buy warranty. Not 100% certain on this part, but it's how it was explained to me.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rustyf7* /forum/post/19999879
> 
> 
> So my question is would I be better off getting this from Best Buy with their 4 year warranty or buy it online (probably get it a bit cheaper than Best Buy) use my American Express which will double the 2 year manufacturer warranty from Epson at no additional cost?


----------



## cubbie_doug

I have a few questions for those in the know. I originally bought the 8350 because of mounting flexibility. I had planned to mount it at ~17' but I have flexibility. After reading through the thread, it seems that others are saying to mount the PJ as far forward as possible. Noted: Mississippi Man suggests staying at least 10% from the min throw. So I guess the questions are as follows:


1) Is the optimal mounting distance equal to the min throw distance plus 10%? (as per MM) For my 127 target image size, that would be 12'3 x 1.1 = 13'5. Is that right?


2) Does anyone have any experience with the Barkan 90 ceiling mount? It comes with 4 mm screws, seems a lot like the Sanus mount and I own it alrerady.


3) Are there any other options for screens other than painting directly on the wall? It seems like at the 127 image size there are not many choices for a substrate. I could make the image smaller, not much larger, but I like it at this size.


Background: I watch mostly at night in a dark room, but want to be able to watch sports with some ambient light. Ceilings are 8'. Distance from eyeballs to screen 13'. Thanks for the help.


FWIW, I have actually had my 8350 setup for several weeks. The picture is fantastic. I am replacing my trusty old Pioneer Pro730, a 64 RPTV. I am currently projecting on a light green painted wall and still was blown away by how good the BR of UP looks.


----------



## the rick

What ceiling mount is everyone recommending for this unit? I got mine tonight, ordered a 84" fixed screen from elite screens with the 1.8 power gain. I know its very high but I have a high gloss ceiling that would be terrible with a normal matte type of screen



Thanks


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubbie_doug* /forum/post/20001491
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for those in the know. I originally bought the 8350 because of mounting flexibility. I had planned to mount it at ~17' but I have flexibility. After reading through the thread, it seems that others are saying to mount the PJ as far forward as possible. Noted: Mississippi Man suggests staying at least 10% from the min throw. So I guess the questions are as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) Is the optimal mounting distance equal to the min throw distance plus 10%? (as per MM) For my 127 target image size, that would be 12'3 x 1.1 = 13'5. Is that right?



Yep.



> Quote:
> 2) Does anyone have any experience with the Barkan 90 ceiling mount? It comes with 4 mm screws, seems a lot like the Sanus mount and I own it alrerady.



If the Radius Arms can extend out far enough to catch all 4 mounting holes...it would work. But I personally do not like "Single Axis Point" Mounts.



> Quote:
> 3) Are there any other options for screens other than painting directly on the wall? It seems like at the 127 image size there are not many choices for a substrate. I could make the image smaller, not much larger, but I like it at this size.



60" x 107" Sintra Board = 123" diagonal...and provides a really ideal substrate to paint on. Easy to work with, VERY dent & scratch resistant, it's Da Bomb O use for any screen where the wall is just too unacceptable to consider, and the Screen size is over 98" diagonal.



> Quote:
> Background: I watch mostly at night in a dark room, but want to be able to watch sports with some ambient light. Ceilings are 8'. Distance from eyeballs to screen 13'. Thanks for the help.



At that Screen size, and wanting ambient light watching potential (ie; a more than decent image whole doing so...) you need a Light Gray highly reflective screen. If you can spray, SF v.2 -2.0 would be your ideal match. Est. cosr for a 1.3 gain DIY screen? $95.00 on the wall, $190 w/ Sintra

(...for more info visit DIY Screens Forum on here, or PM.)



> Quote:
> FWIW, I have actually had my 8350 setup for several weeks. The picture is fantastic. I am replacing my trusty old Pioneer Pro730, a 64 RPTV. I am currently projecting on a light green painted wall and still was blown away by how good the BR of UP looks.



Yeah....I love the 8350. I've already seen a very many go in and leave Noobs to Front Projection feeling completely overwhelmed by the experience.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the rick* /forum/post/20001499
> 
> 
> What ceiling mount is everyone recommending for this unit? I got mine tonight, ordered a 84" fixed screen from elite screens with the 1.8 power gain. I know its very high but I have a high gloss ceiling that would be terrible with a normal matte type of screen
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




The best is the Chief RPA 168, a dedicated Mount that accepts 1-1/2" Drop Pipe. $140.00 - up depending on source.


It's the only one I use.....period.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sethdavidsdad* /forum/post/20000767
> 
> 
> New epson 8350 on it's way, what is the best throw distance?
> 
> I have a 120" screen.
> 
> Room length is 18' can go as close as 13'
> 
> At what distance will I get the best results??



13', as long as your Screen is at least "Unity Gain 1.0"


----------



## Hagopian

Answer Yes or No to the following:


1 ) I have a dust blob problem, and I am using horizantal lens shift ( at least 10% ).


2 ) I do not have a dust blob problem, but I am shooting straight at the screen ( horizantally speaking )


----------



## zippo2

Just received my 8350 in the mail a few days ago. Not thrilled with the black level performance overall. I tried using the THX optimizer from one of my star wars DVD's for a quick setup. In cinema mode with the Iris on, super white off, HDMI auto, sending the signal from a Samsung BD 6500 bluray via HDMI I don't see the black "drop shadow" behind the THX sign on the brightness test. When I send the same hdmi feed to my Samsung lcd tv I see all the black bars ad the shadow, so its not the dvd pkayer. What gives? I read somewhere that the 8350 doesn't display blacker than black. Is this true or is it based on my image settings? Also, for best blacks in Cinema or Natural, should super white be on or off. I'll be displaying on a 1.2 gain white screen in a completely light controlled room with dark walls.


Cheers


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zippo2* /forum/post/20002508
> 
> 
> Just received my 8350 in the mail a few days ago. Not thrilled with the black level performance overall. I tried using the THX optimizer from one of my star wars DVD's for a quick setup. In cinema mode with the Iris on, super white off, HDMI auto, sending the signal from a Samsung BD 6500 bluray via HDMI I don't see the black "drop shadow" behind the THX sign on the brightness test. When I send the same hdmi feed to my Samsung lcd tv I see all the black bars ad the shadow, so its not the dvd pkayer. What gives? I read somewhere that the 8350 doesn't display blacker than black. Is this true or is it based on my image settings? Also, for best blacks in Cinema or Natural, should super white be on or off. I'll be displaying on a 1.2 gain white screen in a completely light controlled room with dark walls.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Super White On = Whites extended / Blacks Clipped

Super White Off and HDMI Video Range set to Extended = BTB/WTW displayed.


I also read somewhere that the 8350 doesn't display BTB but they are wrong. I haven't used the THX optimizer but I used DVE.


----------



## jays_on

@ zippo2


On the Cinema setting, Turn superwhite off, and change HDMI mode from "AUTO" to Expanded, then drop brightness down to about -10 and put contrast up to +5 or +10 and see if it looks any better.


----------



## Kpkelley

I'm looking for the best deal I can find on this, preferably under $1000usd. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look?


TIA


----------



## smurf01501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/19999878
> 
> 
> For those folks experiencing dust blobs...I'm wondering a few things...and also offer a few observations...
> 
> 
> When looking for dust blobs, zoom out, and turn your focus wheel...and you lens will focus on them with amazing detail. You will be able to see green, red and blue fibers...most of which are too small to be seen on screen during normal viewing, but the big ones, they will show up.
> 
> 
> Also...I have my projector off center, and thus I'm using some lens shift....I am wondering for this who have dust blobs, are you using lens shift? Curious if maybe the lens assembly being moved off center, opens up any crevices allowing dust to penetrate.
> 
> 
> I will be taking this sucker apart, and I will be putting together a pictorial of my findings for all.



I think everyone had to use Lens Shift at least once. Especially when you had to remove that big piece of foam . The lens was pointed way down. Right now I am just living with the one blob. I can't see it during movies so that's all I really care about. Just hope it doesn't get worse. I am anxiously awaiting for you to open yours up with lots of pics. Hopefully I'll just clean it myself someday.


Jeff


----------



## speedman

I want to use a 100" screen, but I have a limit of 11' distant in my room for the 8350.. Will this work?


Peter


----------



## Kpkelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *speedman* /forum/post/20003077
> 
> 
> I want to use a 100" screen, but I have a limit of 11' distant in my room for the 8350.. Will this work?
> 
> 
> Peter



According to the projection calculator at projector central, the projector can be as close as 9'9" and project an image of 100" diagonal.


----------



## Kpkelley

 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kpkelley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm looking for the best deal I can find on this, preferably under $1000usd. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look?
> 
> 
> TIA



I don't think you'll find one under $1000... Stick to new units only, warranty is very important on this projector. I was able to haggle HHGregg down to $1025, but normally you can find it for $1199 in a few places before any discounts/coupons.


----------



## speedman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kpkelley* /forum/post/20003122
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm



Thanks for the info Kpkelley..



Peter


----------



## bishopt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001731
> 
> 
> The best is the Chief RPA 168, a dedicated Mount that accepts 1-1/2" Drop Pipe. $140.00 - up depending on source.
> 
> 
> It's the only one I use.....period.



So I'm looking at the Chief 168 mount, what do I need besides the mount, mine is probably going to be a flush mount, what else is needed to mount the projector. Thanks in advance....


----------



## spunkyinkc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LonnieU* /forum/post/19990963
> 
> 
> My recent experiance....
> 
> 
> I have two HR20's and one HR24. When I got my 8350 (replaced a broken Infocus projector), I hooked it to the HR20 in that spot. Infocus was using Component. Used HDMI for the 8350. Looked great for about two weeks before I tore things down and rearranged the setup in my family room. When I hooked things back up, I used the other HR20 (for reasons unrelated to this topic) and was very unhappy with the picture quality of both SD & HD. It was not where I had been when I first installed. After checking cables and settings, I got the HR24 and tried it. Back to where the first HR20 was. Then put the first HR20 back in. Same quality as the HR24 and as I first experianced. Put the suspect HR20 in and poor picture quality again. Switched over to component and the quality is better than HDMI. Can't explain it, but this particular unit is somehow introducing noise in the HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Have you tried both component and HDMI to see if their is any difference?
> 
> 
> I also run all my receivers in Native Mode as others have suggested and let the video device do the final work.




I didn't get a chance to play with the settings this weekend, but I do have 2 HR20's and 1 HR22 to experiment with. I did check last night that I had all of the correct resolutions set and for some reason the 1080p was turned off. Changed that and didn't see any change. I will say that this box was using components to connect to my rear projection TV since it did not have HDMI and the picture was great. So I am wondering if it also has a HDMI issue.


I am getting my new AV reciever today, so I will try the current box with the new setup, and if need be I will start swapping the DVR boxes until I get a good one for the projector. I know it is not a projector issue because my blu-rays look awesome on my PS3.


Thanks for the insight!


----------



## cubbie_doug

Hi MM,


Thanks for responding to my post. I have to confess I have had my 8350 for several months. Finally unboxed about a month ago and am currently using the "ladder, laptop box, piece of cardbound" mount. Works great, doesn't look so good so now ready to mount and move on. It took about that long to read through this whole thread.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001729
> 
> 
> If the Radius Arms can extend out far enough to catch all 4 mounting holes...it would work. But I personally do not like "Single Axis Point" Mounts.



I will probably give the Barkan mount a try given the fact that I have it already.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001729
> 
> 
> 60" x 107" Sintra Board = 123" diagonal...and provides a really ideal substrate to paint on. Easy to work with, VERY dent & scratch resistant, it's Da Bomb O use for any screen where the wall is just too unacceptable to consider, and the Screen size is over 98" diagonal..



As far the Sintra Board goes, I am little unclear. Is 60" the max height? Thus limiting to a 123" image size.


Are you saying to use Sintra anytime you go over 98" image size for the DIYer? I could probably give up a few inches of screen size to have a better surface to work with. Just trying to figure out so I can move ahead with the mounting (and get my ladder out of the room.)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001729
> 
> 
> At that Screen size, and wanting ambient light watching potential (ie; a more than decent image whole doing so...) you need a Light Gray highly reflective screen. If you can spray, SF v.2 -2.0 would be your ideal match. Est. cosr for a 1.3 gain DIY screen? $95.00 on the wall, $190 w/ Sintra
> 
> (...for more info visit DIY Screens Forum on here, or PM.)



I have read through the DIY screen and painting threads a few times but guess it is time to get serious. Seems like painting is the way to go to me. Once I mount the PJ, I will PM you for more details regarding my particular setup and SF v.2 -2.0.


One question regarding masking, is there a good (relatively easy, not too expensive) way to mask for 1:2.35 movies with the painted screen solution? I saw several very cool designs in the other forums but most seemed like an engineering exercise.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001729
> 
> 
> Yeah....I love the 8350. I've already seen a very many go in and leave Noobs to Front Projection feeling completely overwhelmed by the experience.



I guess I fall into the "Noob to FP category" and sort of glad I do. No nitpicking for me. I love the picture and the image size (again projected on a light green wall!). I built my basement about 6 yrs ago and always planned to have a front PJ. I am excited to finally be in the game.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/20002910
> 
> 
> @ zippo2
> 
> 
> On the Cinema setting, Turn superwhite off, and change HDMI mode from "AUTO" to Expanded, then drop brightness down to about -10 and put contrast up to +5 or +10 and see if it looks any better.



I second this.


----------



## SonyCrusader

In hopes of pre-empting any blob attacks, I've spent some quality time inside my 8350. And yes, it's a tight squeeze.


My exploration went no further than top cover removal and pulling the lamp. Without a service manual no boards were moved.


Lots of ventilation and fans! As far as improving on the stock unit, there really aren't many non-invasive measures I could see. The filtered inlet on the back has an adequate-looking filter. I applied a gasket to the inboard edge just to improve the seal.


Tolerances are tight on the side panels, though the various holes for mounting the panels and feeds to the control pad seemed like entry points. I just applied gaskets to the mating edge and around the button circuit.


I added a gasket to the lamp-access port on the top housing, just a perimeter seal at 45 degrees across the outer edge. Good enough. You could use a good polyester tape intended for stage lighting and just tape over the gap. It's not exactly like we use the hatch every day!


For gaskets, the only stuff I had on-hand that 1) was thin enough and 2) had some degree of resilience was a 3-M fabric tape, medical stuff called Durapore or something like that. Woven nylon? Decent adhesive that doesn't look like it'll gum up. (since my roll is like 20 years old yet still delightfully fresh, looks like a plan!)


Beyond that, I didn't see any real obvious avenues for quick improvement. I suppose moving one board may change that...


Sooooo.... having purchased the thing like two weeks ago, I figured it was high time to fire it up. Another reason for the delay was trying to get the $99 Best Buy bundled portable tripod screen to begin looking like might work! The vinyl was wrinkled, no vertical edge support so it was a lot like a big white raisin. A couple of the double-slot shelving tracks and a few c-clamps later and that was made a little more tolerable. Talk about polishing a turd! Got a 4 x 8 sheet of white formica for serious attention later. Matchbox Imax!


You know, I realized that even after all my time and effort with my Sony A3000 ColorHCFR and my I1, I have never see a truly uncompromised linear greyscale... until now. I know it's probably not spot on, but I look at that crossed step scale and know that without the severe non-uniformity and green middle-magenta corners of my Sony I will be able to ENJOY my black-and-whites. And after a sum total of 30 second of turning the zoom and focus barrels I was admiring the crystal clarity of pixel structure.


This day was far too long in arriving!


I did note that the lens had a bit of a foggy film on it, certainly enough to hurt contrast. I'll see if I can clear that.


My big concern is color alignment. Red is off by maybe two pixels, blue perhaps one, in both axis. It's noticeable at viewing distance. NOW... tell me there is service-menu parameter to shift the colors in 1-pixel increments like every good projector has (even my little Sony A3000!) C'mon, who's got it??!


----------



## the rick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20001731
> 
> 
> The best is the Chief RPA 168, a dedicated Mount that accepts 1-1/2" Drop Pipe. $140.00 - up depending on source.
> 
> 
> It's the only one I use.....period.




What about the chief RPAU? I've used that before but I was hoping for something cheaper (I sell chief products but this is a temporary setup)


----------



## luebster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bishopt* /forum/post/20003593
> 
> 
> So I'm looking at the Chief 168 mount, what do I need besides the mount, mine is probably going to be a flush mount, what else is needed to mount the projector. Thanks in advance....



The Chief RPA168 contains the ceiling mounting bracket (the RPA part) and the Epson-specific plate that secures to the mounting bracket (the 168 part). The only other thing you would need is the header screws or other hardware to mount the bracket to your ceiling.


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bishopt* /forum/post/20003593
> 
> 
> So I'm looking at the Chief 168 mount, what do I need besides the mount, mine is probably going to be a flush mount, what else is needed to mount the projector. Thanks in advance....



Go RPA 168 not RPAU many posts about the benefits of 168 over RPAU it is worth the extra money. Peerless plate, you can buy a drop pipe from home depot or use PVC pipe. There are a number of posts from MM with the exact parts you need. Do a search and it will come up.


----------



## zippo2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20003843
> 
> 
> I second this.



Thanks for the responses!


----------



## ferbal

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* 
...My big concern is color alignment. Red is off by maybe two pixels, blue perhaps one, in both axis. It's noticeable at viewing distance. NOW... tell me there is service-menu parameter to shift the colors in 1-pixel increments like every good projector has (even my little Sony A3000!) C'mon, who's got it??!
2 pixels is too much. Ask for an exchange/repair (Epson is good at that). This is a very good PJ for its price, but it's not a high end PJ. There's no electronic way to shift colors in order to get a correct alignment. Sorry.


----------



## ravenlocke

Actually I would wager there is a way to shift per pixel in the service menu. Thing is, I don't think anyone knows how to access it yet!


----------



## ferbal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20014210
> 
> 
> Actually I would wager there is a way to shift per pixel in the service menu. Thing is, I don't think anyone knows how to access it yet!



IMHO I don't think so. I have access to the service menu of my Panasonic AE3000 (have the service manual) and there's no way to do that. Why EPSON would waste such a competitive advantage by hiding this possibility? Furthermore, by showing this feature, EPSON would save lot of money on waranty changes of misaligned projectors


----------



## newfmp3

just curious but what are you guys using to test convergence?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20014662
> 
> 
> just curious but what are you guys using to test convergence?



Use the Test Pattern located on your remote than look at the white lines/borders of the pattern at various locations on the screen.


----------



## ravenlocke

Keep in mind having your zoom or lense shift at their extremes can give the impression that your red panel is off. I slightly changed my placement when I thought I had issues and my convergence is spot on.


----------



## SonyCrusader

For early set-up and eval I'm keeping the various adjustments at close to mid-range to avoid any "weirdness". It's pretty uniform across the image so I don't have a strong suspicion of chromatic aberration or other optical nasties.


It's likely that there is a raster shift parameter somewhere. My Sony A3000 has it, hidden away in the service menu, as well as a psuedo-convergence feature working at the pixel level... but it will split the difference so to speak, across two pixels theoretically sacrificing pixel-to-pixel mapping, resolution, whatever. Raster shift just kicks the whole thing one pixel-distance at a time. Considering the size of the panels, the pitch of the pixels, the fact that there's three of the panels and considering the mechanical tolerances required to get a perfect one-to-one-to-one opto-mechanical match... it would be nice to have the parameter just to maintain sanity at the factory!


I mentioned a haze on my optics. Turns out it's on an interior surface... don't know which as I just took a look to clean it and saw it was a no-joy. Maybe it's between the focus and zoom blocks and maybe it's not too difficult to access... and maybe I'll win the lottery or get that callback from Heather Locklear... 


Worst case, I'll do an exchange. I don't enjoy the inconvenience, and it seems like a lot of owners are having similar experiences. I get the feeling that manufacturers are hoping the larger percentile of users will either not notice or just settle for it. Harking back to my Sony experiences, I was a loyal Sony-ite, but they have dropped the ball way too many times and fall back on "it's within spec" or other BS to sweep CRT flicker, SXRD optics block degradation and such under the rug. Just an observation. It sounds like Epson is agreeable, but they may save some money long-term in replacement-associated costs with a little tweak on the QA. And the long-term benefit in the PR arena... priceless.


----------



## CTShooter

I finally broke down and purchased a ZINO HD HTPC with the intent of watching me media that I transfered to hard drives.


Problem is that the PC doesnt fill up the whole screen. it is at 16:9 aspect ratio but there are bars on both the top/bottom and the left/right. If I watch a blu-ray that I have on my hard drive im losing about 6-7" on each side of the screen.


Now I know I can manually adjust the size of the picture with the projector but I would hate to have to do that everytime I went from PS# to the HTPC or HTPC to cable.


Any suggestions or ideas why the new pc doesnt fill up the whole screen?


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally broke down and purchased a ZINO HD HTPC with the intent of watching me media that I transfered to hard drives.
> 
> 
> Problem is that the PC doesnt fill up the whole screen. it is at 16:9 aspect ratio but there are bars on both the top/bottom and the left/right. If I watch a blu-ray that I have on my hard drive im losing about 6-7" on each side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Now I know I can manually adjust the size of the picture with the projector but I would hate to have to do that everytime I went from PS# to the HTPC or HTPC to cable.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas why the new pc doesnt fill up the whole screen?



Have you checked your overscan setting on the projector for the input your using the new device on?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20016995
> 
> 
> I finally broke down and purchased a ZINO HD HTPC with the intent of watching me media that I transfered to hard drives.
> 
> 
> Problem is that the PC doesnt fill up the whole screen. it is at 16:9 aspect ratio but there are bars on both the top/bottom and the left/right. If I watch a blu-ray that I have on my hard drive im losing about 6-7" on each side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Now I know I can manually adjust the size of the picture with the projector but I would hate to have to do that everytime I went from PS# to the HTPC or HTPC to cable.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas why the new pc doesnt fill up the whole screen?



What type of video card does the Zino have? e.g. Intel, nVidia or ATi. It seems you have a default underscan. ATi drivers have a default of 15% underscan for instance, but that can easily be corrected in their control panel. Same for nVidia, and perhaps Intel too. Check the graphics driver interface for your Zino.


----------



## CTShooter

I have a ATI mobility radeon hd 5450 but have no idea where to look for this setting


----------



## CTShooter

Ok found it - thanks everyone


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

Straight to the point,


Just got my projector (8350, of course), & my screen (Elite Spectrum 100H 100"), & my surround sound (Rdx-9 1800 Watt w/receiver included), & I am in dire need of a step by step website that can walk me through the whole process. Any suggestions are appreciated asap. Trying to git-r-done tonight lol. Thanks!


----------



## vladd

I posted a link 2 pages back.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20017521
> 
> 
> I posted a link 2 pages back.



Thanks Vladd


----------



## Droid6

Is this normal? I just bought this guy today and really like it besides the fact half the screen has a green tint in the lower IRE. Is this something that just needs time to break in?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/20017943
> 
> 
> Is this normal? I just bought this guy today and really like it besides the fact half the screen has a green tint in the lower IRE. Is this something that just needs time to break in?



Is the projector level and centered toward the screen?


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20017791
> 
> 
> Thanks Vladd



Anytime.


----------



## audioadrenaline

I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... _(not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete)_ I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/0












As far as I can tell, my projector is flawless, even after being hung in a room where sawing if wood was going on. No convergence issues, no dust blobs. Has there beena reason for me to post that my projector is perfect, repeatedly? No. If I had problems you bet I'd be posting. The 8350 seems to be a real winner for Epson in number of sales. In real terms it seems we have what, 25 or so people with issues? Maybe it's time for those happy with their 8350 to speak up?


Read any sub $3000 projector thread and you'll see the sane pattern. Everyone raves about their purchase to start with, and then problems appear. Eventually the thread becomes a biatching area for people to air their grievances. I bought the 8350 knowing this, but also having seen that Epson took care of its customers better than the others when things went wrong.


----------



## kaotikr1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... (not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete) I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?



Just take the plunge. It's entry level and you can always get it exchanged.


I had the 1080, 1080ub, 6500, 8500, 8700 and only had issues with the 8500/8700. They upgraded me to the 8700 since i had bad luck with the 8500. I loved Epson but I just had enough so I had to go spend a whole lot more for a different brand and people have some issues with that brand. It comes with each model.


My first 1080 is still in use. I have it as a outdoor theater projector and I'm just putting my 2nd bulb in it.


The 6500 I sold to a friend is still alive and kicking.


The point of all this is that you can predict how well one is going to work for you. Even with the issues I had I am helping a friend install an 8350 tomorrow. It was the best projector in his price range. He will love it an if there are problems you can have it swapped out almost next day. Epson kicks butt on service.


----------



## lakersin2025

I've had mine for 4 weeks and 190 hours on it and mine is awesome as our only TV. No dust and maybe one green pixel off but I can't tell unless I get up close but I am using max lens shift so that may be why. I'm very happy with mine!


----------



## CTShooter

After many problems with the 8100 Epson replaced it with a brand new 8350 - and 272 hours later it is working great - use it for movies, PS3, and now a HTPC...We dont use it much for regular tv as we have a 55" LCD in the living room but it is used almost everyday for something or another...


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20018064
> 
> 
> Is the projector level and centered toward the screen?



It's level and pretty centered but I'm using some lens shift and I tried shifting it around to see if that had any effect but it didn't seem to.


----------



## ravenlocke

That's definitly not right droid. I would give Epson a call on that one.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20019343
> 
> 
> That's definitly not right droid. I would give Epson a call on that one.



I just bought it yesterday at Best Buy, so I may just return it.


----------



## Quick Hands




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/20018736
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... _(not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete)_ I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?



Audioadrenaline I read this forum for 3 years looking for an entry level projector and everyone seemed to have problems this forum is where people come to post them. As others have stated and I've done also I haven't posted since I received mine because it's working fine and I'm happy with it. This forum is great and people Please don't take this the wrong way but once people see a problem on this forum they become way more prevelant such as dust blobs. I know people have them but once it was posted many others started noticing them same with rising black levels in Panny plasma etc.. This is why some say once you get your product avoid the board because ignorance is bliss.







My position would be take the plunge with Epson every product has its problems but Epson's customer service is first class and that is invaluable especially at this price point!!!


----------



## Santi8

Love my 8350!


When you read a forum, you will get more bitching than praise on almost everything.

The 8350 has been receiving fantastic reviews and is killing in sales. It's the #1 selling projector in it's class for a reason. Just got my new screen and Disney wow disc today, I'm sure I'll be even more pleased when I'm done calibrating!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/20018736
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... _(not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete)_ I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?



Just keep in mind that people go out searching for forums for answers to issues and not to come and praise a product.


There is no single projector with out issues.


The best thing to do is to buy locally so you can exchange it quickly if an issue occurs.


What's good for you is that people have outlined the issues for you so you know what to look for.

In most cases, people do not even notice the issues posted in this thread until they are shown how to look for an issue.


----------



## ravenlocke

The complaints on here freaked me out at first as well. I took the plunge regardless, and I have had my PJ for over a week now and couldn't be happier. The 8350 is amazing bang for the buck!


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

I agree I am getting mine localy and I am taking the plunge, getting it at projectorsuperstore.com they are real cool since they are local, they allow me to come in to the office/whse pick up the projector in cash!! The also matched projector people sale price during the superbowl sales, so I am getting it for under 1299







and locally so if there is a problem, I will return it.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I mentioned my color-to-color alignment looked off. It was suggested it may be due to lens-shift... It does seem to be the case. Running through many combinations of settings, there is indeed a "sweet spot" where at least decent alignment falls into place. Hard to quantify as right now I'm limited to waving a sheet of paper in front of the thing!


That said, it still would be nice if there was a panel-alignment parameter as the 8350 seems prone to go misconverged as lens shift is added.


----------



## Guy Lucky

I too, am really digging my 8350 !!!

Blows my old Panny ae700 away...

I had probs with my Panny...

Items were fixed under warranty after I shipped it, on my dime, to KC,,,

Took about 3 weeks to get it back...

SUCKED BIG TIME...

Recently bought a replacement lamp for it...

Lamp lasted 106 days...

16 days PAST the warranty ending...

330 bucks...

Panasonic's reply???

NOPE, not gonna help ya !!!

Not buyin' any Panasonic products again !!!

It took a class action lawsuit in the past to spur Panasonic to replace crappy bulbs in their TV's...


Enter Epson and the 8350...


Couldn't be more pleased !!!

NO convergence issues...

NO dust "blobs"...

NO color shift issues...


As another member posted...

"Looks like a giant LCD hangin' on my wall !!!"


Having a few of the guys over on Sat. for the KY vs SC b'ball game...


GO CATS !!!


May God Bless,

Guy Lucky


----------



## bdbax

I need a little advice on projector distance. I have a 100" white screen. I can ceiling mount at 8 feet or ceiling mount behind the seating at 14' which would be better?


----------



## joeags

Minimum throw distance based on Epson's calculator is 9'9", so you won't be able to mount it at 8'.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdbax* /forum/post/20024164
> 
> 
> I need a little advice on projector distance. I have a 100" white screen. I can ceiling mount at 8 feet or ceiling mount behind the seating at 14' which would be better?


----------



## bdbax

Thanks!


----------



## Saxy Man

I just fired up my projector for the first time. Its great but I seem to have a problem with the brand new Samsung blue ray player. I get a slight flicker at the bottom of the screen. It is not constant. When i hook up a cheap dvd player that upconverts it works fine. I use the same dvd and the same cable. It flickers even when it is on the home screen. Any thoughts? Maybe the blue ray player is defective but its just out of the box. Its one of those all in one home theater systems. Any help would be appreciated...


----------



## gadget-zilla

Has anyone purchased an extended warranty for the 8350 - either through Best Buy and/or through Amazon's squaretrade and what has been your experience with either. I only know of just these two. If there's another company that is even better for extended warranty, I'm open to suggestions.


I'm considering getting an extended warranty when I get the projector and wanted some advice to see which warranty has any 'gotchas'.


I like the fact that BestBuys are local and I can take the projector for issues pretty quickly to the store but what Amazon offers (squaretrade) is pretty reasonable and people have given it high marks.


----------



## Pruckner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/20018736
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... _(not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete)_ I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?



My projector has been great! I've been spending time at the Onkyo forum because that's where my problems have been. When an item is working well, there is less need to be in that forum, so many of the people contributing here are the ones having issues...


There are only 2 issues that I can mention about this projector...1. The blacks aren't deep black on a 1.1 gain screen, but then again the Epson only cost me $1100. 2. the lens shift is a loose adjustment. It can be set perfectly, its just a little tricky. Aside from those points, it's been fantastic!


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

Hi guys, picked up my 8350 and fired it up!! IT LOOKS







AWESOME, however ther is an issue with the monoprice 15ft cable I got, I read reviews that it works well at that length but I am getting pixleated break up and sound issues, do I need a repeater? It is going out of my Sony STRD G-920 HDMI out to the Epson. now I don't know if I screwed up the cable because as I was stapling it with a cable staple gun down on the baseboard, it did penetrate in two spots thru the side of the cable. I pulled it out and if I play with the wire the signal comes in clean from the bluray input, but when I switch to directv input that is when it breaks up in audio/video. any suggestions? Thanks


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/20027066
> 
> 
> Hi guys, picked up my 8350 and fired it up!! IT LOOKS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOME, however ther is an issue with the monoprice 15ft cable I got, I read reviews that it works well at that length but I am getting pixleated break up and sound issues, do I need a repeater? It is going out of my Sony STRD G-920 HDMI out to the Epson. now I don't know if I screwed up the cable because as I was stapling it with a cable staple gun down on the baseboard, it did penetrate in two spots thru the side of the cable. I pulled it out and if I play with the wire the signal comes in clean from the bluray input, but when I switch to directv input that is when it breaks up in audio/video. any suggestions? Thanks



My HTPC feeds into my AVR via a 6 ft HDMI cable.

The AVR's output goes into an HDMI splitter via another 6 ft cable.

A further 6ft HDMI cable goes from the output of my splitter (which does boost the signal, I believe) to a wall plate attached to my media cabinet. There's a 90 degree connector on the back of the cabinet, leading to a 35 ft HDMI cable going to a wallplate on my ceiling.

One last 2 ft HDMI cable connects this wallplate to the 8350.


The picture is wonderful, no complaints. All cables, connectors, wallplates and splitters were bought from MonoPrice.


I think you may have damaged your cable with the stapling.


----------



## ravenlocke

I picked up a cheap 25 foot Hdmi with my projector with mixed results. My ps3 breaks up on it, though it's fine with a shorter cable. My 360 however can drive the 25 footer no problem,


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/20027111
> 
> 
> My HTPC feeds into my AVR via a 6 ft HDMI cable.
> 
> The AVR's output goes into an HDMI splitter via another 6 ft cable.
> 
> A further 6ft HDMI cable goes from the output of my splitter (which does boost the signal, I believe) to a wall plate attached to my media cabinet. There's a 90 degree connector on the back of the cabinet, leading to a 35 ft HDMI cable going to a wallplate on my ceiling.
> 
> One last 2 ft HDMI cable connects this wallplate to the 8350.
> 
> 
> The picture is wonderful, no complaints. All cables, connectors, wallplates and splitters were bought from MonoPrice.
> 
> 
> I think you may have damaged your cable with the stapling.



Thanks, I think you may be right







I though those nicks probalby damaged the cable because I buy lots of stuff from mono an it is pretty good.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20027130
> 
> 
> I picked up a cheap 25 foot Hdmi with my projector with mixed results. My ps3 breaks up on it, though it's fine with a shorter cable. My 360 however can drive the 25 footer no problem,

















now what do I do? try another cable did I damage this one or am I having the same issue as you, one input works fine the other is spotty....what to do







???


----------



## ravenlocke

Both of my inputs are fine, however only my 360 has a strong enough signal to drive the cheap cable. It sounds like you need a better quality cable for your setup.


----------



## scofow

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla*
Has anyone purchased an extended warranty for the 8350 - either through Best Buy and/or through Amazon's squaretrade and what has been your experience with either. I only know of just these two. If there's another company that is even better for extended warranty, I'm open to suggestions.


I'm considering getting an extended warranty when I get the projector and wanted some advice to see which warranty has any 'gotchas'.


I like the fact that BestBuys are local and I can take the projector for issues pretty quickly to the store but what Amazon offers (squaretrade) is pretty reasonable and people have given it high marks.
Best Buy also replaces the lamp once during the plan, that almost covers the cost of the 4 year plan. Otherwise I don't know much else difference between them.


----------



## Elmo C




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/20018736
> 
> 
> I've been reading this forum religiously for the past few months and even though I've already bought the screen materials, the more I read, the more reluctant I am to take the plunge. I'm not asking anyone to give me that purchase 'nudge', I just can't justify spending $1,300 on something that's plagued with as many problems as have been detailed here at AVS... _(not to mention how insanely fast these things lose their value & become obsolete)_ I know it's an entry-level projector, but it seems like far more people are having problems with the 8350 than those that aren't. Either Epson's got some QC issues, or we're all just really picky. I guess my posting boils down to this question: are these issues just inherent in this price class, or are competing projectors like the AE-4000U far less problem-laiden?



This post could go to 90+% of every item mentioned on avs.Mine looks and operates great, that means I'm a fanboy here.


----------



## develvjd-

Bought mine in November at Best Buy, the picture is epic, no dust blobs, no convergence issues. I love everything about this projector... Just another data point.


----------



## Quick Hands

Great to start hearing some positive responses on this unit this thread was starting to get real negative. I just got my screen up and the pic is outstanding sports last night was like being there except my captain and coke was a lot cheaper!!!


----------



## Quick Hands

@ develvjd sweet screenshots Kim K. WOW!!!!


----------



## Nesto

@develvjd, what screen are you using ? those pix do look great, did you sharpen them ?


----------



## ravenlocke

Rocking some Motor Storm on the PS3! The 100 inch electric Favi screen really adds some wow factor and compliments my condo when not in use. I really love this projector!


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/20027066
> 
> 
> Hi guys, picked up my 8350 and fired it up!! IT LOOKS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOME, however ther is an issue with the monoprice 15ft cable I got, I read reviews that it works well at that length but I am getting pixleated break up and sound issues, do I need a repeater? It is going out of my Sony STRD G-920 HDMI out to the Epson. now I don't know if I screwed up the cable because as I was stapling it with a cable staple gun down on the baseboard, it did penetrate in two spots thru the side of the cable. I pulled it out and if I play with the wire the signal comes in clean from the bluray input, but when I switch to directv input that is when it breaks up in audio/video. any suggestions? Thanks



Just to add to what others have already contributed to your post - I run 15ft HDMI cables from both a PS3 and an OPPO DVD player and just get a fantastic picture.


Your statement about also getting "sound issues" confused me though - if your HDMI cable runs directly from source to projector then at what point in the chain are you introducing an audio device? [I'm unfamilar with your Sony STRD G-920] As the 8350 has no sound reproduction capabilities, you might be experiencing an issue with a component upstream of the HDMI cable.


Despite that, my vote is for a nicked HDMI cable.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/20033149
> 
> 
> Just to add to what others have already contributed to your post - I run 15ft HDMI cables from both a PS3 and an OPPO DVD player and just get a fantastic picture.
> 
> 
> Your statement about also getting "sound issues" confused me though - if your HDMI cable runs directly from source to projector then at what point in the chain are you introducing an audio device? [I'm unfamilar with your Sony STRD G-920] As the 8350 has no sound reproduction capabilities, you might be experiencing an issue with a component upstream of the HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Despite that, my vote is for a nicked HDMI cable.



Yep you Guys were right I nicked the cable, I got a new 25 footer at Frys Electornics, not a bad price either 22.99, and the pjay works like a charm on all inputs!!!



































it looks AWESOME, I am happy with my purchase, out the box in cinema mode the colors are SICK!!!!!!


----------



## develvjd-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/20030361
> 
> 
> @ develvjd sweet screenshots Kim K. WOW!!!!



Thanks Kim, glad you liked them-



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nesto* /forum/post/20032992
> 
> 
> @develvjd, what screen are you using ? those pix do look great, did you sharpen them ?



That's a DIY Silver Fire 3.0 v1, a paint blend I found in the DIY Screens section of this forum. Those are untouched shots, this projector produces razor sharp images.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/20029921
> 
> 
> Bought mine in November at Best Buy, the picture is epic, no dust blobs, no convergence issues. I love everything about this projector... Just another data point.



There's a "sweet spot" in my unit's shift ranges where everything stays tight. Currently, my setup is centered horizontal and projector level to the top of an 83" screen at about 15' throw. Adjusted to compensated, my red then goes out-of-register.


If your setup holds convergence, that's a good sign! Could just be a unit-specific deviation. With precision optics and mass mechanical assembly sometimes being an oil-and-water mix, and with quite a bit of play in my lenses, I'll work them around and see if I can induce a correction.


And that is a sweet setup you have!


----------



## wickedg8gt

Well ive had the 8350 for about 3 months and no convergence issues or dust blobs; just the pesky lens shift issue where after a while it will drop an inch or two.


----------



## jpolachak

I just figured I would follow up on my first experience with my Epson 8350. I have never owned a projector before and this is the best $1k I have ever spent. We have had out projector for 3 months or so now. I have the lens shift issue about once every other week.


I have just 500 hours on this projector now and I am still in love with this thing. It makes every movie so much better. After spending countless hours wondering if it was going to work ok with some ambient light and its amazing. I also spent a ton of hours wondering about a screen. Then we got this thing and just set it up and put it on the wall. We have decided that we dont need a screen for now. I am not sure how much better it can really get. We have a light grey wall in our basement just normal paint.


I really just wanted to post this because forums some times just get filled with issue threads/rants. I am 1000% satisfied.











excuse my crap iphone picture. With 6 lights on in the room and a lamp about 6 feet from the screen on the right


----------



## Dede

Has anyone seen recommended settings to use the 8350 with a gray screen? I have tried the settings used by ProjectorReview ( http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php ) but the colors look "off" so to speak.


Any ideas?


----------



## Santi8

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Dede*
Has anyone seen recommended settings to use the 8350 with a gray screen? I have tried the settings used by ProjectorReview ( http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php ) but the colors look "off" so to speak.


Any ideas?
Since all screens and room situations differ, I think the best route is a calibration disk such as Disney's Wow. I picked mine up online and the setup was not only interesting, but the results were great.


----------



## the rick

Well, i've had the 8350 with a 82" elite powergain (1.8) screen for a few days now. Overall, I'm pretty impressed with how much people can get for so little money. Take into account that I sell more expensive options like stewart and JVC at work (and they are better...) but this thing kicks ass for ~1500$. It's fun to have a mini theater again (we sit 9')!


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/20033844
> 
> 
> Thanks Kim, glad you liked them-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a DIY Silver Fire 3.0 v1, a paint blend I found in the DIY Screens section of this forum. Those are untouched shots, this projector produces razor sharp images.



Hey Dev, what did you set your digital camera on to take the pictures, they look awesome, I tried and it was hit or miss? What was your ISO settings and white balance settings you used? this question is also for anyone else with great pictures posted on this thread.







I am loving my 8350 WOW


----------



## kee68




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ferbal* /forum/post/20014182
> 
> 
> 2 pixels is too much. Ask for an exchange/repair (Epson is good at that). This is a very good PJ for its price, but it's not a high end PJ. There's no electronic way to shift colors in order to get a correct alignment. Sorry.



I have not bought my 8350 yet but went to BestBuy yesterday as they gave me a 12% discount for being a Silver member. I know very little about HT but have read most of this thread. This may sound like a dumb question but how are you determining of being a pixel off. Also is the dust blob issue as bad as a lot of people on this thread make it out to be? This is a big unit. I did not see any as big at BestBuy. Still up in the air about an electric screen I have a lot of ambient light but looking into blackout roller blinds to cover 17 feet of south facing windows. Any suggestion for a screen that can't exceed 99" wide and 50" tall and that would be including any boarders on the screen.

Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thx Bob


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Has anyone found a place to get the proper replacement power cord for the 8350 in white? I've hit the few sites that I know, and none seem to have it.


Any ideas? Thanks.

(I'd rather not spray paint)


----------



## speedman

Anyone know where I can buy one of these plugs?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *speedman* /forum/post/20039374
> 
> 
> Anyone know where I can buy one of these plugs?



I got one at Fry in the computer section.

You might check the thrift stores to as they usually have a rack with power cords.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20039180
> 
> 
> Has anyone found a place to get the proper replacement power cord for the 8350 in white? I've hit the few sites that I know, and none seem to have it.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? Thanks.
> 
> (I'd rather not spray paint)



I looked all over the web I could not find a right angle white replacment cord for my epson 8350, good luck, if you find one let us know.


----------



## smurf01501

Got dust blobs on my first one after 6 days. Got dust blobs on the second one after 10 days. Here is hoping that 3rd times the charm. I held onto my second one a bit longer to see if the dust blobs got worse. I still only had a very faint one. There were a ton of dust specs when I shrunk my picture and focused the dust. I am still pretty convinced that these dust blob problems are a result of units that had dust in them when they were built. Hoping that my next one is clean. I also hope I don't run into new problems with the new unit. I loved my last 1 and I hate to have convergence issues. If I do I'll just take it back again. Someday I hope I can just relax and enjoy.


Jeff


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smurf01501* /forum/post/20040103
> 
> 
> Got dust blobs on my first one after 6 days. Got dust blobs on the second one after 10 days. Here is hoping that 3rd times the charm. I held onto my second one a bit longer to see if the dust blobs got worse. I still only had a very faint one. There were a ton of dust specs when I shrunk my picture and focused the dust. I am still pretty convinced that these dust blob problems are a result of units that had dust in them when they were built. Hoping that my next one is clean. I also hope I don't run into new problems with the new unit. I loved my last 1 and I hate to have convergence issues. If I do I'll just take it back again. Someday I hope I can just relax and enjoy.
> 
> 
> Jeff



THis is why you dont ever isf calibrate any epson unit ....


----------



## speedman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/20039956
> 
> 
> I looked all over the web I could not find a right angle white replacment cord for my epson 8350, good luck, if you find one let us know.




Monoprice sells the Right Angle plugs in Black, but OOS in all lengths... I guess get your spray can out... LOL


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Well, I found Radio Shack has a decently priced (if you can believe it) *********** cord. It's not a right-angle plug, though.


And....it looks like I'll have to wait till my third post to post the URL.


----------



## mrjoelcarter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20043138
> 
> 
> Well, I found Radio Shack has a decently priced (if you can believe it) *********** cord. It's not a right-angle plug, though.
> 
> 
> And....it looks like I'll have to wait till my third post to post the URL.



And here's the link.....

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3875424


----------



## MelCarl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20043141
> 
> 
> And here's the link.....
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3875424



They have the white, right angle...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3875425


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Honestly I have been over to the screen and diy screen forum and the measure of knowledge is a bit to deep for me. I was wondering and hoping someone would mind offering a quick solution.


I have a 110" screen, the 8350 is about 15' from the screen using a decent amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift (all three variables really only have that option).


I've been using a bright-white painted and trimmed piece or two of sheetrock. Now that I've replaced my Panasonic L500U with the 8350 I'd like to add just a touch more to the screen but I really can't afford to do much. I think painting is my only option, and at that, with a roller.


The room has complete control of light, so I figured I'd keep the paint at white...but my questions were...


flat paint, I assume?

any certain brand of paint?

somewhere I saw someone mention adding metallic or reflection particles?


Thanks for any help or direction.


----------



## pacemaker

i have a Dust Blob and 1 dead pixel

do i return for a new one?


----------



## EJ

^imo...Absolutely!


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20043153
> 
> 
> Honestly I have been over to the screen and diy screen forum and the measure of knowledge is a bit to deep for me. I was wondering and hoping someone would mind offering a quick solution.
> 
> 
> I have a 110" screen, the 8350 is about 15' from the screen using a decent amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift (all three variables really only have that option).
> 
> 
> I've been using a bright-white painted and trimmed piece or two of sheetrock. Now that I've replaced my Panasonic L500U with the 8350 I'd like to add just a touch more to the screen but I really can't afford to do much. I think painting is my only option, and at that, with a roller.
> 
> 
> The room has complete control of light, so I figured I'd keep the paint at white...but my questions were...
> 
> 
> flat paint, I assume?
> 
> any certain brand of paint?
> 
> somewhere I saw someone mention adding metallic or reflection particles?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help or direction.



Another cheap option is blackout cloth DIY screen. Buy some 1x4 and "L" brackets and black paint from Lowes Fasten into a frame (add center brace). Paint frame flat black. Staple blackout cloth to the back of the frame and you are done. Latter get so black velvet and attach to the frame. This will give you a nice 1.0 gain screen.


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20037512
> 
> 
> Since all screens and room situations differ, I think the best route is a calibration disk such as Disney's Wow. I picked mine up online and the setup was not only interesting, but the results were great.



I bought DVE HD Basics (blu-ray), I will give it a try to see if I can tweak to satisfy.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20043153
> 
> 
> Honestly I have been over to the screen and diy screen forum and the measure of knowledge is a bit to deep for me. I was wondering and hoping someone would mind offering a quick solution.
> 
> 
> I have a 110" screen, the 8350 is about 15' from the screen using a decent amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift (all three variables really only have that option).
> 
> 
> I've been using a bright-white painted and trimmed piece or two of sheetrock. Now that I've replaced my Panasonic L500U with the 8350 I'd like to add just a touch more to the screen but I really can't afford to do much. I think painting is my only option, and at that, with a roller.
> 
> 
> The room has complete control of light, so I figured I'd keep the paint at white...but my questions were...
> 
> 
> flat paint, I assume?
> 
> any certain brand of paint?
> 
> somewhere I saw someone mention adding metallic or reflection particles?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help or direction.



What color is the paint in the rest of the room? Even though you have complete control of light, a completely white room can utterly destroy your black levels from light being reflected back to your screen. If that is the case, you might want to consider a grey to maximize your black levels and cut back on ambient reflection a bit...


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kee68* /forum/post/20039178
> 
> 
> ...snip..
> 
> 
> Any suggestion for a screen that can't exceed 99" wide and 50" tall and that would be including any boarders on the screen. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thx Bob



Hard to beat the aggressive pricing from EluneVision and Eastporters.com. There's an entire thread started over 5 years ago about the screens here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=648951 

http://www.eastporters.com/estore/cart.php?page=screens 



I just bought a 92" Luna (motorized screen) that would seem to fit your dimensions... just don't let it drop all the way down (using the remote) if you want to keep it to less then 50".

http://www.eastporters.com/PDF/Luna/92.pdf


----------



## ronep




mrjoelcarter said:


> Honestly I have been over to the screen and diy screen forum and the measure of knowledge is a bit to deep for me. I was wondering and hoping someone would mind offering a quick solution.
> 
> 
> I have a 110" screen, the 8350 is about 15' from the screen using a decent amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift (all three variables really only have that option).
> 
> 
> I've been using a bright-white painted and trimmed piece or two of sheetrock. Now that I've replaced my Panasonic L500U with the 8350 I'd like to add just a touch more to the screen but I really can't afford to do much. I think painting is my only option, and at that, with a roller.
> 
> 
> The room has complete control of light, so I figured I'd keep the paint at white...but my questions were...
> 
> 
> flat paint, I assume?
> 
> any certain brand of paint?
> 
> somewhere I saw someone mention adding metallic or reflection particles?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help or direction.[/
> 
> 
> 
> Go to Projector Central and look at the title Projectors-- Industry commentary (on home page) and read "Painting the perfect screen for $100."
> 
> Hope this helps!


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* 
What color is the paint in the rest of the room? Even though you have complete control of light, a completely white room can utterly destroy your black levels from light being reflected back to your screen. If that is the case, you might want to consider a grey to maximize your black levels and cut back on ambient reflection a bit...
A medium-dark green. The ceiling is white and low...and I understand that throws back light too....but it's a 1905 house, the basement finished out well, but just a tad low. I can't do much darker for fear of making it too cave-like.


And thanks *ronep* for the article suggestion. I'll check it out.


----------



## speedman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MelCarl* 
They have the white, right angle...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3875425
Thanks, but we want the female end to be the right angle, so it can go straight up to the ceiling. Nice try though.....


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

besides Visual Apex giving away a free dust cover and selling one (kinda fugly lol







) has anyone come across a nice dust cover for the Epson 8350?

PS watched Hawaii Five O last night, Wow lushous green and all sorts of colors POP, like my LCD. NO DUST BLOBS (knock on wood) and no convergence issues. This Pjay is just amazing














, talk about bang for the buck.


----------



## la9ers

I just go my pj yesterday......Does anyone know were to find a decent hdmi switch (2x1) that will work with harmony remotes and also compatible with 35' hdmi cable? My onkyo receiver 808 only has one hdmi out so I need a switch.


thanks.


----------



## speedman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/20046283
> 
> 
> I just go my pj yesterday......Does anyone know were to find a decent hdmi switch (2x1) that will work with harmony remotes and also compatible with 35' hdmi cable? My onkyo receiver 808 only has one hdmi out so I need a switch.
> 
> 
> thanks.



Yap... Head over to Monoprice, for under 30 bucks with remote..


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just go my pj yesterday......Does anyone know were to find a decent hdmi switch (2x1) that will work with harmony remotes and also compatible with 35' hdmi cable? My onkyo receiver 808 only has one hdmi out so I need a switch.
> 
> 
> thanks.



You might want to consider an Hdmi splitter. They usually boost the signal as well and you don't have to worry about messing around with a remote. Cheaper too!


----------



## la9ers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20046673
> 
> 
> You might want to consider an Hdmi splitter. They usually boost the signal as well and you don't have to worry about messing around with a remote. Cheaper too!



What the difference between a splitter and a switch? Don't they do the same thing?


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What the difference between a splitter and a switch? Don't they do the same thing?



A splitter gives two identical, simultaneous active outputs from one input. A switch has only one output at a time active that must be manually chosen by the user. After thinking about it, a splitter met my needs nicely.


----------



## EJ

I have a great 4x2 matrix switcher that has worked flawlessly. They have a few, but I believe others and myself have had the most trouble-free operation with this model. (If a true matrix switcher is what you're after.)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## la9ers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/20047579
> 
> 
> I have a great 4x2 matrix switcher that has worked flawlessly. They have a few, but I believe others and myself have had the most trouble-free operation with this model. (If a true matrix switcher is what you're after.)
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



i don't need 4x2 i only need 2x1


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/20047672
> 
> 
> i don't need 4x2 i only need 2x1



regardless, go monoprice. I only needed a 2x1 as well but went with a 4x2 for future uses. I use this

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


individual power on/off for each display. Works with ps3/360/sat tv/pc ok for me with 40' runs. Downside is you won't carry 5.1 to both displays at same time when sending one source to both displays. One will default to stereo.



if you are in the USA, you can't go wrong with monoprice.


----------



## vladd

I've found a source for white right angle power cords but I would need to do a minimum purchase of 50-100 because they manufacture them to order. I'm currently getting a quote on 3ft and 1ft cords. They said they can do bright white or slightly off white; I opted for the bright white. They did say that if they do not have the cord stock, they can order it but the minimum order quantity might need to be higher in that case.


Once I get pricing and minimum order quantity, I may start a thread to see how many would be interested in a power buy.


----------



## la9ers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20049580
> 
> 
> regardless, go monoprice. I only needed a 2x1 as well but went with a 4x2 for future uses. I use this
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> individual power on/off for each display. Works with ps3/360/sat tv/pc ok for me with 40' runs. Downside is you won't carry 5.1 to both displays at same time when sending one source to both displays. One will default to stereo.
> 
> 
> 
> if you are in the USA, you can't go wrong with monoprice.




well after further review and doing some research I went with this one from monoprice
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


The good thing is they are down the street from were i live I can pick it up later this afternoon.


----------



## mjg100




ronep said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrjoelcarter* /forum/post/20043153
> 
> 
> Honestly I have been over to the screen and diy screen forum and the measure of knowledge is a bit to deep for me. I was wondering and hoping someone would mind offering a quick solution.
> 
> 
> I have a 110" screen, the 8350 is about 15' from the screen using a decent amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift (all three variables really only have that option).
> 
> 
> I've been using a bright-white painted and trimmed piece or two of sheetrock. Now that I've replaced my Panasonic L500U with the 8350 I'd like to add just a touch more to the screen but I really can't afford to do much. I think painting is my only option, and at that, with a roller.
> 
> 
> The room has complete control of light, so I figured I'd keep the paint at white...but my questions were...
> 
> 
> flat paint, I assume?
> 
> any certain brand of paint?
> 
> somewhere I saw someone mention adding metallic or reflection particles?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help or direction.[/
> 
> 
> *Go to Projector Central and look at the title Projectors-- Industry commentary (on home page) and read "Painting the perfect screen for $100."*
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That info is way behind the current tech for DIY screen painting. Best to read and study in the DIY screen area.
Click to expand...


----------



## rsnyder005

I have not used a projector for 2yrs. but was thinking of either going with an Epson 8350 or 8700UB.My screen is large 159" Dalite high power with a 2.9 gain.My old projector(JVC RS1x) was bright enough on this large screen.Will either of these two Epson projectors work and is the 8700U worth the extra $800. thanks, Ron


----------



## Dede

Trigger out?


Has anyone had luck controlling a motorized screen with the trigger out function? I have a 3.5MM cable running from the projector to the 3.5MM input of the screen, and I have "enabled" the function in the Epson's menu...


Shouldn't the screen go up and down by simply turning the projector on and off? What am I missing?


----------



## Newk2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *la9ers* /forum/post/20050646
> 
> 
> well after further review and doing some research I went with this one from monoprice
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> The good thing is they are down the street from were i live I can pick it up later this afternoon.



That is the one I got and it couldn't have been easier. Works great. Just remember that if you have any problems to call their support; they're on top of it!


----------



## pbusado

Looking to the experts and the owners of this projector to make some comments on my thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1316847 


Note that it is between 10-11 feet from the screen and it's zoomed all the way in to fill the screen. Could that make a difference?


Comments @ that thread are appreciated especially since I'm wondering if between the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi HC4000, I've made a wrong decision. If so, I still have time to fix it, but time is running out!


Thanks so much!


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbusado* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking to the experts and the owners of this projector to make some comments on my thread:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1316847
> 
> 
> Note that it is between 10-11 feet from the screen and it's zoomed all the way in to fill the screen. Could that make a difference?
> 
> 
> Comments @ that thread are appreciated especially since I'm wondering if between the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi HC4000, I've made a wrong decision. If so, I still have time to fix it, but time is running out!
> 
> 
> Thanks so much!



You have a defective unit and need get it exchanged. Your pj's picture does not accurately reflect what the 8350 is capable of. I have had mine for 2 weeks now and I absolutely love it!


----------



## Protonus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjr39* /forum/post/19797318
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if if someone can verify if this is normal or not with the 8350. To me, it looks like blue is up and to the right whenever there is white text on the screen.
> 
> 
> I took this from about 18" away



Your blue convergence looks off in the picture by at least 2-3 pixels. That isn't normal, 1 pixel off is "within tolerance". Are you using lens shift? Try getting the lens shift more neutral and see if it's better. Your red convergence seems dead on though. My red is one pixel left, and my blue is one pixel right.


----------



## Bdex75

If painting with a roller (and minimal price) is the only option then the Behr Silver Screen or one of the other paints that are available at a big box store may be your best option. Read up on the Silver Screen (SS) threads and follow the instructions to the letter. The tried and true way to use this paint is by adding a small part of water based poly to the mix and some white opal pearl if you can find it. Roll with a very short nap (3/16 or 1/4) or foam roller. Just make sure to leave a good overlap and keep a wet edge to eliminate roller marks.


This is just what I was able to pick up from reading the silver screen threads and googling it. That was my thread that talked about adding a metallic paint to the mix and it is purely experimental at this time. As I play with this I will keep adding to that thread, my drywall will be hung and taped by the end of next week and I am going to start by spraying on scraps of drywall.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

I mentioned in a post a while back that I took the leap & got my first pj (8350, of course), & an elite spectrum 100" screen as well. My man-cave is only 10x10, so I'm limited on space, but I'm wondering if there's any other options available to where I can cover the entire screen w/the projector image. My screen size is 80 1/2 (L) x 92 (W). I'm completely zoomed in, & the largest image I'm able to project is 48 x 80. The pj is mounted on a shelf about a foot from the ceiling, centered, & it sits about 9' from the screen, so due to the size of my room, is there anything I can do to fill that whole screen, despite the fact that I'm maxed out on my zoom, or am I doomed due to the rather small room size? I would like to cover my whole wall if I choose lol!


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mentioned in a post a while back that I took the leap & got my first pj (8350, of course), & an elite spectrum 100" screen as well. My man-cave is only 10x10, so I'm limited on space, but I'm wondering if there's any other options available to where I can cover the entire screen w/the projector image. My screen size is 80 1/2 (L) x 92 (W). I'm completely zoomed in, & the largest image I'm able to project is 48 x 80. The pj is mounted on a shelf about a foot from the ceiling, centered, & it sits about 9' from the screen, so due to the size of my room, is there anything I can do to fill that whole screen, despite the fact that I'm maxed out on my zoom, or am I doomed due to the rather small room size? I would like to cover my whole wall if I choose lol!



You are really close as 9 feet 8 inches from the lenses to your screen is all you need to fill a 100 inch screen. Can you knock a small hole in one of your walls and make a cubbyhole for your projector?


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are really close as 9 feet 8 inches from the lenses to your screen is all you need to fill a 100 inch screen. Can you knock a small hole in one of your walls and make a cubbyhole for your projector?



That is a possibility, but I'd rather take another route, if possible, to avoid having any more holes in the walls, seeing as though I put enough holes there already when I was installing everything lol. Is there an alternative by any chance? I've read a few other posts where people with older pj models were able to display between 90" to 110" from the same distance, although they had different (older model) pj's. Is the 8350 capable of that with the limited space I have? I'm also using lens shift by the way, since the shelf is mounted so high. It helped towards centering the display on the screen. I just can't fill the screen up lol...


----------



## mrjoelcarter

Bdex75...fantastic. Thank you.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20060013
> 
> 
> That is a possibility, but I'd rather take another route, if possible, to avoid having any more holes in the walls, seeing as though I put enough holes there already when I was installing everything lol. Is there an alternative by any chance? I've read a few other posts where people with older pj models were able to display between 90" to 110" from the same distance, although they had different (older model) pj's. Is the 8350 capable of that with the limited space I have? I'm also using lens shift by the way, since the shelf is mounted so high. It helped towards centering the display on the screen. I just can't fill the screen up lol...



Sorry Bub, but since the 8350 has no capability to accept a Short Throw lens, (..and you really would not want to know what they cost anyway...







...) the "Through-the Wall" option is your only recourse. Short of reducing your image size. The 8350 has the widest variable Throw Distance for any given screen size of any PJ selling today....bar none. So if you hit a wall trying to get a particular sized image within the ultra wide Focal range of the 8350, basically WYSIWYG.


Only switching to a true Short Throw PJ would rectify your situation, but giving up 1080p resolution would be the inevitable outcome and you surely don't want to do that.


Really...considering the size of your Room (...or lack thereof...) andthe size of the 8350, a "Through the Wall" mounting option will serve to both allow you the larger screen size your wanting, as well as effectively improve the overall feeling of spaciousness in the room. And let's not forget about how your Friends will perceive such an installation. Why...they'd think you spent like a "Movie Mogul" on a true "Screening Room". You can't hardly buy into such platitudes any less expensively than you can by simply accommodating "Through to Wall" mounting.


There are simply some things that must be accommodated, and the parameters of a PJ's Focal length are among the most important...and intractable you'll run up against.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Bub, but since the 8350 has no capability to accept a Short Throw lens, (..and you really would not want to know what they cost anyway...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...) the "Through-the Wall" option is your only recourse. Short of reducing your image size. The 8350 has the widest variable Throw Distance for any given screen size of any PJ selling today....bar none. So if you hit a wall trying to get a particular sized image within the ultra wide Focal range of the 8350, basically WYSIWYG.
> 
> 
> Only switching to a true Short Throw PJ would rectify your situation, but giving up 1080p resolution would be the inevitable outcome and you surely don't want to do that.
> 
> 
> Really...considering the size of your Room (...or lack thereof...) andthe size of the 8350, a "Through the Wall" mounting option will serve to both allow you the larger screen size your wanting, as well as effectively improve the overall feeling of spaciousness in the room. And let's not forget about how your Friends will perceive such an installation. Why...they'd think you spent like a "Movie Mogul" on a true "Screening Room". You can't hardly buy into such platitudes any less expensively than you can by simply accommodating "Through to Wall" mounting.
> 
> 
> There are simply some things that must be accommodated, and the parameters of a PJ's Focal length are among the most important...and intractable you'll run up against.



So basically, as ravenlocke suggested in the earlier post, cutting out a hole for the pj to sit in the wall would be my best bet? With the way my house is designed, from the sheetrock to the outside of the house only gives me roughly an extra foot or so for the pj to sit further away from the screen. Would it be worth the hassle for the extra foot, & would it make a drastic difference in the image size? Also, is there a specific through to wall mounting set I would need to purchase, or is it just as easy to just outline the pj on the wall, cut out the sheetrock, then push the pj back into the slot I cut out? I'm very pleased with the quality "out of the box" (since I haven't done any tweaks whatsoever to the options, aside from adjusting the focus from the lens lol), so the image isn't the issue. I also don't want to lose any quality by enlarging the display size. Seeing as though this is my first projector, I want the best display/size possible. I guess it's a guy thing lol...


----------



## jpolachak

I am buying a cable for my projector and I am not sure which one will work best. If i can save a few bucks great. I am looking at these two. The only difference seems to be silver plated connectors.


This is what I am considering.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


But should i spend the extra for this?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/20061839
> 
> 
> I am buying a cable for my projector and I am not sure which one will work best. If i can save a few bucks great. I am looking at these two. The only difference seems to be silver plated connectors.
> 
> 
> This is what I am considering.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> But should i spend the extra for this?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



Go look at the specs page. Absolutely every spec is identical, except for silver vs tin conductor plating. Silver is a slightly better conductor than tin, but it won't make a real difference. Both can corrode over time, but are protected by the jacket. In fact, silver corrodes easier than tin.


I'd be buying the cheaper one if I were doing this.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20061615
> 
> 
> Sorry Bub, but since the 8350 has no capability to accept a Short Throw lens, (..and you really would not want to know what they cost anyway...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...) the "Through-the Wall" option is your only recourse. Short of reducing your image size. The 8350 has the widest variable Throw Distance for any given screen size of any PJ selling today....bar none. So if you hit a wall trying to get a particular sized image within the ultra wide Focal range of the 8350, basically WYSIWYG.
> 
> 
> Only switching to a true Short Throw PJ would rectify your situation, but giving up 1080p resolution would be the inevitable outcome and you surely don't want to do that.
> 
> 
> Really...considering the size of your Room (...or lack thereof...) andthe size of the 8350, a "Through the Wall" mounting option will serve to both allow you the larger screen size your wanting, as well as effectively improve the overall feeling of spaciousness in the room. And let's not forget about how your Friends will perceive such an installation. Why...they'd think you spent like a "Movie Mogul" on a true "Screening Room". You can't hardly buy into such platitudes any less expensively than you can by simply accommodating "Through to Wall" mounting.
> 
> 
> There are simply some things that must be accommodated, and the parameters of a PJ's Focal length are among the most important...and intractable you'll run up against.



Well technically he could face the projector toward the rear wall and use first reflection mirror to bounce the image onto the screen. A lot of trouble, but much cheaper than a lens. I would still go with the through the wall option or smaller image if it was me and I am a huge DIYer.


Added

If all you need is around a foot of extra throw, then I would look at using a first surface mirror. Here is a guy that is/was doing it. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post16252372


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well technically he could face the projector toward the rear wall and use first reflection mirror to bounce the image onto the screen. A lot of trouble, but much cheaper than a lens. I would still go with the through the wall option or smaller image if it was me and I am a huge DIYer.
> 
> 
> Added
> 
> If all you need is around a foot of extra throw, then I would look at using a first surface mirror. Here is a guy that is/was doing it. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post16252372



I'm a big DIYer myself, so I am open to suggestions, but I went over what I originally planned when I setup my man-cave, so I'm trying to avoid any extra spending if possible. If I were to gain that extra foot or so by cutting a hole in the wall for the pj, would there be a big difference in the size? I don't wanna start cutting sheetrock just to gain a couple inches of screen lol. I used the calculator on pj central, but it didn't work out as planned.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20062830
> 
> 
> .... If I were to gain that extra foot or so by cutting a hole in the wall for the pj, would there be a big difference in the size? I don't wanna start cutting sheetrock just to gain a couple inches of screen lol. I used the calculator on pj central, but it didn't work out as planned.



Try the calculator on epson.com [ http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...e-calculator/] - it looks like you might be able to get another 10 inches (diagonal), depending on some of your other variables.


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/20062341
> 
> 
> Go look at the specs page. Absolutely every spec is identical, except for silver vs tin conductor plating. Silver is a slightly better conductor than tin, but it won't make a real difference. Both can corrode over time, but are protected by the jacket. In fact, silver corrodes easier than tin.
> 
> 
> I'd be buying the cheaper one if I were doing this.




Thank you so much for the reassurance.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Try the calculator on epson.com [ http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...e-calculator/] - it looks like you might be able to get another 10 inches (diagonal), depending on some of your other variables.



I'll check it out. Thanks for the link


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20063325
> 
> 
> I'll check it out. Thanks for the link



No probs.


It's interesting - once I posted the Epson link for you, I started to wonder - if I were in your situation, would I make the mod. Hmmmm...


If you can increase your width by 10 inches, you would move from your current 80"x45" image (16:9 AR) up to a 90"x51" picture. That's actually a 27.5% increase in the total area being displayed! Based on that magnitude of increase, I think the impact to your perception of image size and your viewing enjoyment would also be significant!


Stud placement and other considerations aside, if it were me, I'd definitely go for it!


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/20063508
> 
> 
> No probs.
> 
> 
> It's interesting - once I posted the Epson link for you, I started to wonder - if I were in your situation, would I make the mod. Hmmmm...
> 
> 
> If you can increase your width by 10 inches, you would move from your current 80"x45" image (16:9 AR) up to a 90"x51" picture. That's actually a 27.5% increase in the total area being displayed! Based on that magnitude of increase, I think the impact to your perception of image size and your viewing enjoyment would also be significant!
> 
> 
> Stud placement and other considerations aside, if it were me, I'd definitely go for it!



I've been wondering something as I watched this unfold. At one point Larry said this was an outside wall he'd have to open up.


> Quote:
> With the way my house is designed, from the sheetrock to the outside of the house only gives me roughly an extra foot or so for the pj to sit further away from the screen.



If Larry is jamming this into the outer wall cavity, where the heck is the projector going to get airflow for the intake on the rear? Unless I am misunderstanding, this is heading toward major overheating. If it is an inside wall, he can use a cold air return grille in the next room, but that won't work on an outside wall.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20059381
> 
> 
> I mentioned in a post a while back that I took the leap & got my first pj (8350, of course), & an elite spectrum 100" screen as well. My man-cave is only 10x10, so I'm limited on space, but I'm wondering if there's any other options available to where I can cover the entire screen w/the projector image. My screen size is 80 1/2 (L) x 92 (W). I'm completely zoomed in, & the largest image I'm able to project is 48 x 80. The pj is mounted on a shelf about a foot from the ceiling, centered, & it sits about 9' from the screen, so due to the size of my room, is there anything I can do to fill that whole screen, despite the fact that I'm maxed out on my zoom, or am I doomed due to the rather small room size? I would like to cover my whole wall if I choose lol!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20059473
> 
> *You are really close as 9 feet 8 inches from the lenses to your screen is all you need to fill a 100 inch screen.* Can you knock a small hole in one of your walls and make a cubbyhole for your projector?



He will need to pick up approximately 16" of throw from where he is now to get a 100" 16:9 image. I allowed one inch for clearance behind the projector and one inch extra for throw. If this is an outer wall, then it will not work.


Added

Since your room is 10' deep, you currently have about 8'-7" throw. 10'-16" for projector depth=8'-8". Now subtract 1" for screen and you are left with 8'-7". You need 9'-8" + 1'-4" (projector) + 2" (for clearance of projector) + 1" (for throw) + 1" (for screen) + 11'-4". As I said 16" additional needed.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/20063859
> 
> 
> I've been wondering something as I watched this unfold. At one point Larry said this was an outside wall he'd have to open up.
> 
> 
> 
> If Larry is jamming this into the outer wall cavity, where the heck is the projector going to get airflow for the intake on the rear? Unless I am misunderstanding, this is heading toward major overheating. If it is an inside wall, he can use a cold air return grille in the next room, but that won't work on an outside wall.



A few pages back I posted a question about airflow (post #3396) that was triggered by seeing a shelf-mounted 8350 that seemed to have minimal rear clearance - I didn't get a response, so assumed (maybe incorrectly) that people just weren't experiencing any overheating issues.


Maybe the original poster of the shelf install shots (Edmove) would care to comment?


Dave


************

Added:


Apologies, Ed did reply:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/19989804
> 
> 
> There is an easy 6'' space back there so no problem on airspace. I used to have a box there. Look at the first photo and you can see the blue area. I got one message on it overheating while in that box so I started looking for other options. I really like the shelf and it is workout out great.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

DGF- You do make a great point. We are gonna be in our home for years to come, & due to my line of work (electrician), I've cut my share of sheetrock lol! That is a pretty significant increase, which I'll probably look into doing in the next few days.


Jayn_J- I might have worded that last post wrong. The wall I have the shelf mounted to is an inside wall, but it's on the back side of my house, meaning if I were to drill through the wall, once I got past the sheetrock, I'd hit the brick & go outside after at least 2' of drilling. As for overheating, I noticed the 8350 has a vent on the front of the unit. Is there also a vent in the rear? I haven't really payed attention, & I'm not at home now to notice. But if that were an issue, could I not cut the hole big enough for air to flow? Of course I'd use the 8350 diameter, but I'd make it wide enough for air to flow.


----------



## jpsplace

Im thinking of buying the Epson 8350. My room is 10' wide X 14' long.

If I put the projector on the rear wall it would be about 13' from the screen.

The projector will work from 9-20 feet. Optimal light is somewhere in the mid range - so if I'm getting this correct my room would be the perfect size for optimum light and screen size should be around 120" Does this sound correct?. I'm thinking that I'll buy the projector and see how it works on the wall before I purchase or make a screen - That way I'll know exactly what size screen I'll need. Plan to make a screen out of the Wilson Art Designer White Laminate. Does all this make any sense? I have never seen the Epson 8350 or any other projector for that matter. I'm making this decision based on what I have read in these Forums. My room is a dedicated Movie room - Light controlled for total darkness - 7.1 surround sound. Im watching on a 55 inch Samsung - It has a really good picture - Just too small. I sit 12 feet from the screen

Will the projector screen picture be as good ??? Thanks for the feedback


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

Thank you all for the suggestions & info.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpsplace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im thinking of buying the Epson 8350. My room is 10' wide X 14' long.
> 
> If I put the projector on the rear wall it would be about 13' from the screen.
> 
> The projector will work from 9-20 feet. Optimal light is somewhere in the mid range - so if I'm getting this correct my room would be the perfect size for optimum light and screen size should be around 120" Does this sound correct?. I'm thinking that I'll buy the projector and see how it works on the wall before I purchase or make a screen - That way I'll know exactly what size screen I'll need. Plan to make a screen out of the Wilson Art Designer White Laminate. Does all this make any sense? I have never seen the Epson 8350 or any other projector for that matter. I'm making this decision based on what I have read in these Forums. My room is a dedicated Movie room - Light controlled for total darkness - 7.1 surround sound. Im watching on a 55 inch Samsung - It has a really good picture - Just too small. I sit 12 feet from the screen
> 
> Will the projector screen picture be as good ??? Thanks for the feedback



That sounds correct on your 120" screen size. I am just getting drywall hung tomorrow and will be shooting from 12' and am planning to go about 118"-120". I just used the calculator on projector central.com and it works wonderfully. As far as the picture compared to a 55", it depends. I like you, have not seen a projector in the last 5 years (in someone's home) so am a bit curious. I am currently watching a 60" 1080p plasma....we shall see.

I too will be waiting to get the pj up and running before I decide on a final screen size. Going to shoot on to the wall and one form or another of a diy screen. I just think that with the information in the diy screen section you can build a lot better screen than you will buy for less than about $1000.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds correct on your 120" screen size. I am just getting drywall hung tomorrow and will be shooting from 12' and am planning to go about 118"-120". I just used the calculator on projector central.com and it works wonderfully. As far as the picture compared to a 55", it depends. I like you, have not seen a projector in the last 5 years (in someone's home) so am a bit curious. I am currently watching a 60" 1080p plasma....we shall see.
> 
> I too will be waiting to get the pj up and running before I decide on a final screen size. Going to shoot on to the wall and one form or another of a diy screen. I just think that with the information in the diy screen section you can build a lot better screen than you will buy for less than about $1000.



You are like myself, hadn't seen a projector in years... They were dim, blurry, loud, bulky, and expensive.


I took the plunge to an 8350 from a 50" 1080p DLP, and now it looks like I have a 103" LCD hanging on my wall. While the 8350 remains a bit bulky, it's picture for $1200 will blow your mind. Especially if it's been years since you've seen a projector.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LarryPiznoTn* /forum/post/20064056
> 
> 
> Jayn_J- I might have worded that last post wrong. The wall I have the shelf mounted to is an inside wall, but it's on the back side of my house, meaning if I were to drill through the wall, once I got past the sheetrock, I'd hit the brick & go outside after at least 2' of drilling. As for overheating, I noticed the 8350 has a vent on the front of the unit. Is there also a vent in the rear? I haven't really payed attention, & I'm not at home now to notice. But if that were an issue, could I not cut the hole big enough for air to flow? Of course I'd use the 8350 diameter, but I'd make it wide enough for air to flow.



No, we are saying the same thing. You basically don't have access to the back unit from the next room. If you did, you could place the unit in the next room and just cut a hole for the lens. The reference I made to the vent was to allow you to sink it into the wall and then let a fake cold air return grating in the other room act as an inlet path.


The Epsons have an outlet vent on the front and an inlet vent on the back. The back inlet can be opened and there is a filter in there that should be regularly cleaned and occassionally changed.


I have my 8100 shelf mounted as well. I used a pair of heavy duty shelf brackets that were wider than the projector. I left a 2" gap between the rear edge of the shelf and the wall. The projector is also positioned so that its back is about 4" from the wall. The sides are open, so this gives plenty of room for airflow.


You need to have enough rear clearance that air can actually move into the inlet. Cutting the hole bigger won't really help if the unit has no rear clearance. It's kind of like sitting in a wide room and you can breathe fine, but if you put your lips right up against the wall of the room, it becomes a lot tougher. Airflow is only as good as the smallest part of the path.


I don't think opening the wall is going to work with leaves you with 3 options as I see it. Different projector with side vents, smaller screen, or you could try the bounce it off the mirror trick mentioned earlier. Face the projector toward the rear of the room and place a mirror on the back wall. Bounce the light off the mirror and onto the screen. It will take a lot of playing around but should work. If you do this, you will need to use the menu controls to change the setting that would reverse the image.


----------



## pmaddock

I just got the 8350 in as a replacement for a Sanyo PLV-Z4 and am having a huge "almost" moment. The image is a vast improvement over the Z4 but it has a sort of purple blob in the upper left corner.


If it weren't for the blob its such a fantastic improvement over the Z4 this would have been a home run.


This issue showed up pretty quickly so I'm still well short of the 5 hour bulb window for a return.


I've only tried a few basic things (changing the zoom, focus, etc) but the positon of the blip is constant so I'm guessing its in the LCD elements - probably going to have to return it.


Does anyone have any advice before I box it back up?


----------



## jpolachak

When in doubt box it up and sent it back IMO. Its brand new and it should work without issues. Its not up to you to troubleshoot an item out of the box.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmaddock* /forum/post/20066355
> 
> 
> I just got the 8350 in as a replacement for a Sanyo PLV-Z4 and am having a huge "almost" moment. The image is a vast improvement over the Z4 but it has a sort of purple blob in the upper left corner.
> 
> 
> If it weren't for the blob its such a fantastic improvement over the Z4 this would have been a home run.
> 
> 
> This issue showed up pretty quickly so I'm still well short of the 5 hour bulb window for a return.
> 
> 
> I've only tried a few basic things (changing the zoom, focus, etc) but the positon of the blip is constant so I'm guessing its in the LCD elements - probably going to have to return it.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any advice before I box it back up?



Try enabling your iris to fast and see if it the purple is decreased.


----------



## bjmsam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20066123
> 
> 
> You are like myself, hadn't seen a projector in years... They were dim, blurry, loud, bulky, and expensive.
> 
> 
> I took the plunge to an 8350 from a 50" 1080p DLP, and now it looks like I have a 103" LCD hanging on my wall. While the 8350 remains a bit bulky, it's picture for $1200 will blow your mind. Especially if it's been years since you've seen a projector.



This sums up my experience as well. I just replaced our 65" Mitsu 65C9 DLP with the Visual Apex 120" 8350 package and cannot get over how much of an improvement it is. With a 14' throw in ECO Cinema mode 7000K color 2.2 gamma auto iris engaged, it looks _spectacular_ from ~16' viewing distance in our light controlled room . Here I am standing with a shot from the DVE DVD (not Blu-Ray):










(Canon SD1000 f/2.8 6/10 sec ISO 100)


----------



## c-69

use a good mirror, it works like a charm in my setup



















problems: none

sharpness: same as without mirror

loss of brightness: not visible to me

hints: dust off every other months, keep a duster handy to tell off any insects who mistake the flickering mirror for a 70th disco.


used a cheap mirror first it had distortions, then I used one I just had hanging around, looks funny and one day I might change that or just buy a fancy Epson if there were not the premature bulb failure syndrome...


----------



## chuckster12

I took the plunge last weekend and finally got the projector mounted today. Even using a textured cream colored wall, the image is amazing. Just in time for March madness.

I used this mount:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSFY48 


Looking for an inexpensive fixed screen once we decide on the size. Right now I'm at 14' throw and set at about 130" diagonal. Wow!


This is my first projector, so I was concerned about all of the negative posts from people who have had issues. Keeping my fingers crossed that my experience is a good one.










Chuck


----------



## wickedg8gt

Almost everybody on this thread including myself that has bought a 8350 always asks what kind of screen they should use in their home or what kind of paint they should paint their wall. I was reading on projector central today and they did a test of paints to paint a wall for a projector screen and they said they found the *Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin* had a gain of 1.1 and it was better than their Studiotek 100. Has anybody tried this or tested it out. I painted my screen a neutral grey 8.5 mixed with poly at 4:1 because basically thats what everybody was recommending. To be honest now i'm rethinking about doing it over. Has anybody tried this yet or what are your opions.


----------



## Kilgore

Shouldn't screen-oriented questions and comments be best posted in the Screen forum?


I come to this thread for information on the 8350 projector, and not on screens. That's why there is a Screen forum...for talk about screens.


----------



## wickedg8gt

They should but half of the pages in this thread are on the proper screens for the 8350.


----------



## Saxy Man

Well I got my projector installed and it is great. I do have one issue. When I use my Samsung blue ray player I get a little flicker to the picture. This does not happen with my cable tuner or my DVD that upcoverts. I am hooking them all up using the same HDMI cable. When I use component cables out of the blue ray player the picture is fine. I tried it with both my blue ray players and they both have the same flicker. The picture is fine when i hook the samsung to my TV using an HDMI cable.


HELP!


----------



## pmaddock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20066515
> 
> 
> Try enabling your iris to fast and see if it the purple is decreased.



It does seem to have had an impact -its less noticeable but its still quite visible. Guess I'm about to discover how projectorpoint's return process works.


My thanks to this board though. I made a point of making sure I had evaluation time thanks to the posts here.


----------



## Elmo C

Another happy 8350 owner.I've had my unit about two months, I have a Jamestown matte white 130" screen.I've paid much more for tv's, I never enjoyed them as much, best HT purchase ever.


----------



## newfmp3

I am thinking about returning mine. I am just not blown away by it. Just not sure what else to get. Black levels are not impressive, motion issues, convergence issues. The iris is an absolute joke, it's pathetic just how bad it is. I just do not have that "love it " feeling I get with a new gadget. Add in all these possible future issues, dust, bulb etc, I feel like I have a ticking time bomb here. I do have a slight convergence issue that irritates me as well


----------



## LarryPiznoTn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No, we are saying the same thing. You basically don't have access to the back unit from the next room. If you did, you could place the unit in the next room and just cut a hole for the lens. The reference I made to the vent was to allow you to sink it into the wall and then let a fake cold air return grating in the other room act as an inlet path.
> 
> 
> The Epsons have an outlet vent on the front and an inlet vent on the back. The back inlet can be opened and there is a filter in there that should be regularly cleaned and occassionally changed.
> 
> 
> I have my 8100 shelf mounted as well. I used a pair of heavy duty shelf brackets that were wider than the projector. I left a 2" gap between the rear edge of the shelf and the wall. The projector is also positioned so that its back is about 4" from the wall. The sides are open, so this gives plenty of room for airflow.
> 
> 
> You need to have enough rear clearance that air can actually move into the inlet. Cutting the hole bigger won't really help if the unit has no rear clearance. It's kind of like sitting in a wide room and you can breathe fine, but if you put your lips right up against the wall of the room, it becomes a lot tougher. Airflow is only as good as the smallest part of the path.
> 
> 
> I don't think opening the wall is going to work with leaves you with 3 options as I see it. Different projector with side vents, smaller screen, or you could try the bounce it off the mirror trick mentioned earlier. Face the projector toward the rear of the room and place a mirror on the back wall. Bounce the light off the mirror and onto the screen. It will take a lot of playing around but should work. If you do this, you will need to use the menu controls to change the setting that would reverse the image.



Thank you again for the info. As I stated before, I am new to the projector scene, so I do appreciate all info & suggestions. As I stated before, I am content with how everything is set up right now, but I wouldn't mind a bigger screen size. In order to avoid a lot of extra spending, cutting, etc., I'm considering moving the pj to our master bedroom, which is triple the size of the man cave that's set up now lol. That's something I'm looking at doing in the future, but I don't mind the 80-85" screen size, because it beats the 50" plasma we had by far! Plus the quality is superb, for the price I payed.


----------



## FrankS

I am having a problem with Cinema mode where are I get a green tinted area on the lower right corner and a slight pinkish tint on right side of picture taking up about 1/6 of the screen area. This ONLY appears on cinema mode and not the other modes and is noticeable only when certain colors are on the screen. It also looks like the colors (in the effected area) are being overblown of sorts. I reset the setting for cinema (after using Art's settings) and still this problem remains.


What could cause this problem in only one mode setting?


----------



## darockk

hello has anyone found out a way to clean the dust blobs?










great projector for the price. i really cant believe so many people are having problems. perhaps im not as picky as other people, but i think this projector absoulutely rocks


----------



## ikecomp

I'm another happy 8350 owner but wanted to know how often some you guys are cleaning the air filter for this bad boy? (i.e. once every 100 hours of usage, once every 50 hours of usage, etc)


Thanks in Advance


----------



## jays_on

What are you waiting for? Sounds like you make a pretty strong case!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20072846
> 
> 
> I am thinking about returning mine. I am just not blown away by it. Just not sure what else to get. Black levels are not impressive, motion issues, convergence issues. The iris is an absolute joke, it's pathetic just how bad it is. I just do not have that "love it " feeling I get with a new gadget. Add in all these possible future issues, dust, bulb etc, I feel like I have a ticking time bomb here. I do have a slight convergence issue that irritates me as well



I know exactly how you feel! Love it!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Elmo C* /forum/post/20072073
> 
> 
> I've paid much more for tv's, I never enjoyed them as much, best HT purchase ever.



Dude! That is the coolest thing I've ever seen!







What GUI are you using? It looks like xp media center in the mirror shot, but whats on the wall?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c-69* /forum/post/20067043
> 
> 
> use a good mirror, it works like a charm in my setup


----------



## Vao

Oh guys why I want this Pj so bad???? Here in my country the only home theater projector which is worth to buy is Mits HC4000.


I have two options:


1. Buy Epson 8350 from US for about 1200$ and a friend will delivered to me in Europe.

2. Buy Mits HC4000 for 1750$ (the price here). There is a chance to buy it for 1400$ but its not sure...only if i take it without tax.


I'll doing DIY 2.35:1 screen at my room but I still don't know what to do. Why do i want 8350 so much?....and one more thing..If i buy Epson 8350 from US i'm not sure what will happen with the warranty here in Europe....i'm scared of all this issues with the lamp, dust blob, and convergence. The reason i dont buying the european version of 8350 - TW3600 is because the price here is around 2200$


What should i do?


----------



## richie_slk

@Vao,

why don´t you try getting a TW3200 (not available in the us)

which can already be found for round about eur 1.000.


There are already reviews/comparisons that state that there are

only little differences between both models.


----------



## raylock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richie_slk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> @Vao,
> 
> why don´t you try getting a TW3200 (not available in the us)
> 
> which can already be found for round about eur 1.000.
> 
> 
> There are already reviews/comparisons that state that there are
> 
> only little differences between both models.



As Vao says. See here. http://www.homecinemacentral.com.au/...vs-TW3200.html


----------



## Jrcastro

Sweet Projector. I got it ceiling mounted throw at 13'.3" to project at a 100" do-able board and this thing rocks!


I will eventually jump to 120" or possibly 133" once I decide on final size and materials.


Anyone on the fence on this thing... you don't know what you are missing.


I came from a 63" plasma and this thing is very close to the quality of picture.


And connected to my HTPC (hdmi) this thing is superb in text quality.


----------



## pacemaker

Well i took advice of here and returned my 2nd Epson as it had a dust blob and dead pixel fault. first had a noisy fan. new one has arrived and has a weird discoloration on the left side of the screen, only visible on a white background, that i do not remember seeing on the others but i have been forced into super critical mode now. please see this pic

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/OffWhite.jpg 


also new one has a slight convergence problem with green on bottom of horizontal lines but this is not visible from normal viewing distance.


so what do you think? over critical or send it back again?


----------



## KarstenS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20082454
> 
> 
> 
> also new one has a slight convergence problem with green on bottom of horizontal lines but this is not visible from normal viewing distance.
> 
> 
> so what do you think? over critical or send it back again?



If I follow your photo I would say: That's normal. I wouldn't expect an improvement, when you send it back.


----------



## bjmsam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjmsam* /forum/post/20066826
> 
> 
> I just replaced our 65" Mitsu 65C9 DLP with the Visual Apex 120" 8350 package and cannot get over how much of an improvement it is. With a 14' throw in ECO Cinema mode 7000K color 2.2 gamma auto iris engaged, it looks _spectacular_ from ~16' viewing distance in our light controlled room . Here I am standing with a shot from the DVE DVD (not Blu-Ray):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Canon SD1000 f/2.8 6/10 sec ISO 100)



Perhaps I should return mine, too. The picture is too big, the colors are too vibrant, the blacks are too deep and there are pools of drool under the seats.


----------



## FrankS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20082454
> 
> 
> Well i took advice of here and returned my 2nd Epson as it had a dust blob and dead pixel fault. first had a noisy fan. new one has arrived and has a weird discoloration on the left side of the screen, only visible on a white background, that i do not remember seeing on the others but i have been forced into super critical mode now. please see this pic
> 
> http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/OffWhite.jpg



you seem to have what I have on my new 8350 but mine is on right side. Does your appear on all video modes (Cinema, Natural Living Room etc). Mine only appeared on Natural and Cinema. Talked to Epson and they are sending replacement so I'm crossing fingers.


----------



## jpsplace

Buying my 1st projector. After 2 weeks of research - I came down to the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi 4000. Both are basically the same price. Epson is 3LCD and Mits4000 is DLP. Both seem to have a good picture. Both have problems. I like the fact that the Mits4000 has no dust issues/no filters and is sealed to dust. I like the fact that the Epson has lens shift. Mits4000 has a 2 year warranty and the lamp seems to last a bit longer (5000 hours). The Mits 4000 is an upgrade of the 3800 that was highly rated last year.They added the TX Dark Chip3 in the 4000 for better blacks/contrast.

Both would work in my dedicated Home Theatre Room that is light controlled. Doing a rear wall ceiling mount that fits well with both for a 110" diag screen size. I currently have a Samsung DLP that has an outstanding picture. I have 3 tv's now. A 55" Samsung DLP/ A 50" Samsung Plasma and a 40" Panasonic LCD. I would rate the DLP and Plasma as a tie for 1st place with the LCD far behind. SO DLP is OK for me- dont see any rainbow effect - and this new projector has a 6 segment HS color wheel that is even better than my Samsung. The Mits4000 also has menu options to set CHI for 2.35 viewing without an anamorphic lens - did not find that in the Epson Guide.

Pulling the trigger. Thanks for all the feedback and answers to my dumb questions.

Cant wait for it to arrive. Really wanted a 3d Projector but I see where they cost $10K.

Hopefully this will last 5 years ( I only use it 5-6 hours a week to watch movies) and maybe the 3D will be affordable / as well as have a lot more content in 5 years.


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpsplace* 
Buying my 1st projector. After 2 weeks of research - I came down to the Epson 8350 and the Mitsubishi 4000. Both are basically the same price. Epson is 3LCD and Mits4000 is DLP. Both seem to have a good picture. Both have problems. I like the fact that the Mits4000 has no dust issues/no filters and is sealed to dust. I like the fact that the Epson has lens shift. Mits4000 has a 2 year warranty and the lamp seems to last a bit longer (5000 hours). The Mits 4000 is an upgrade of the 3800 that was highly rated last year.They added the TX Dark Chip3 in the 4000 for better blacks/contrast.

Both would work in my dedicated Home Theatre Room that is light controlled. Doing a rear wall ceiling mount that fits well with both for a 110" diag screen size. I currently have a Samsung DLP that has an outstanding picture. I have 3 tv's now. A 55" Samsung DLP/ A 50" Samsung Plasma and a 40" Panasonic LCD. I would rate the DLP and Plasma as a tie for 1st place with the LCD far behind. SO DLP is OK for me- dont see any rainbow effect - and this new projector has a 6 segment HS color wheel that is even better than my Samsung. The Mits4000 also has menu options to set CHI for 2.35 viewing without an anamorphic lens - did not find that in the Epson Guide.

Pulling the trigger. Thanks for all the feedback and answers to my dumb questions.

Cant wait for it to arrive. Really wanted a 3d Projector but I see where they cost $10K.

Hopefully this will last 5 years ( I only use it 5-6 hours a week to watch movies) and maybe the 3D will be affordable / as well as have a lot more content in 5 years.
I had to do it again, and if both were same price up here, and I could make the 4000 work in my theater, I'd give the Mitsu a try and first look.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Just an fyi-

Convergence and dust blob issues on LCD is nothing new.

I think after all the years it's been discussed at AVS, people are now more critical on the issues.

I'm sure if everyone with an LCD projector took a very close look at the PQ, they could find something wrong with it.


The discoloration issue is usually something related to DLP due to the color wheel.

I think what is being observed in this thread in regards to discoloration is something to do with the amount of lens shift and zoom being applied which amplifies the issue.


----------



## Bdex75

My drywall is hung and the taper finished tonight. All that is left is texturing the ceiling and some dry time and I will be painting on my screen. Hopefully with roasting my family out of the house with the heat cranked up and the fans, we will be ready.


I was just on projector central.com using the calculator to double check dimensions on my planned 120" diagonal screen size. What I noticed is that for this pj and 120" it has the throw calculated at 16' with the range going from 11'9" to 25'1". My pj is being set in a box (with an open back and front) on the ceiling. It was "new construction" and came out really slick. If I can ever figure out how to get pics on my iPad and post to here I will, if not I will post from my home computer.


My question is this....My fixed box gives me a throw distance of 12' to 12'6". If i am at the low end of that range my pj will be zoomed all the way in to fit the screen. What effect, if any will this have on my image?


If it helps, I will be using no horizontal shift and enough vertical shift to get to center of screen that will be darn near up to the ceiling. Of course minus a 4' black velvet border.


----------



## fitbrit

You should be fine at that distance. I have a few more inches to play with, in terms of distance from screen, _but_ I'm using both horizontal and vertical shift. The image looks bright and very impressive. I can get away with eco mode on the lamp and cinema settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20089551
> 
> 
> My drywall is hung and the taper finished tonight. All that is left is texturing the ceiling and some dry time and I will be painting on my screen. Hopefully with roasting my family out of the house with the heat cranked up and the fans, we will be ready.
> 
> 
> I was just on projector central.com using the calculator to double check dimensions on my planned 120" diagonal screen size. What I noticed is that for this pj and 120" it has the throw calculated at 16' with the range going from 11'9" to 25'1". My pj is being set in a box (with an open back and front) on the ceiling. It was "new construction" and came out really slick. If I can ever figure out how to get pics on my iPad and post to here I will, if not I will post from my home computer.
> 
> 
> My question is this....My fixed box gives me a throw distance of 12' to 12'6". If i am at the low end of that range my pj will be zoomed all the way in to fit the screen. What effect, if any will this have on my image?
> 
> 
> If it helps, I will be using no horizontal shift and enough vertical shift to get to center of screen that will be darn near up to the ceiling. Of course minus a 4' black velvet border.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should be fine at that distance. I have a few more inches to play with, in terms of distance from screen, but I'm using both horizontal and vertical shift. The image looks bright and very impressive. I can get away with eco mode on the lamp and cinema settings.



I would like to have a "few more inches to play with" but wouldn't we all!! J/K

Thanks for the quick response and the reassurance, especially since my shelf is not moveable.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20089613
> 
> 
> I would like to have a "few more inches to play with" but wouldn't we all!! J/K
> 
> Thanks for the quick response and the reassurance, especially since my shelf is not moveable.



12'-6" -11'-9" gives you 9" to play with. 9" should be plenty to play with.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20089613
> 
> 
> I would like to have a "few more inches to play with" but wouldn't we all!! J/K
> 
> Thanks for the quick response and the reassurance, especially since my shelf is not moveable.



You know, I have a dirty mind and this double entendre "sprang up" as I was typing, so I tried to bury it by adding stuff about the distance from the screen. I thought that should be sufficient to keep us on track. But no, I found another sniggering, childish, filthy-minded brother instead!


----------



## Bdex75

At this point it is what it is as far as pj mounting is concerned. I built a box on the ceiling that is open on the front and back and is covered in drywall. The drywall taper did a great job making it look really good! Once I get the cabinets and the center channel in below where the screen goes 120" is the largest screen that i have room for (it is going to be a diy screen). The entire wall there is being painted as a screen and i will zoom in/out and calibrate for best picture before i build my mdf frame and cover with velvet.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20090963
> 
> 
> At this point it is what it is as far as pj mounting is concerned. I built a box on the ceiling that is open on the front and back and is covered in drywall. The drywall taper did a great job making it look really good! Once I get the cabinets and the center channel in below where the screen goes 120" is the largest screen that i have room for (it is going to be a diy screen). The entire wall there is being painted as a screen and i will zoom in/out and calibrate for best picture before i build my mdf frame and cover with velvet.



I was initially going to have the same sort of set up - a high mounted right-side-up box for the projector.

In the end, I then bought a cheap Monoprice mount and had it modified to use all 5 mounting holes. It's perfectly set up right now, but not very sturdy, I think. I'm going to spring for the 8350 - specific Chief mount soon (RPA168 ?).


----------



## russhater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/20091088
> 
> 
> I was initially going to have the same sort of set up - a high mounted right-side-up box for the projector.
> 
> In the end, I then bought a cheap Monoprice mount and had it modified to use all 5 mounting holes. It's perfectly set up right now, but not very sturdy, I think. I'm going to spring for the 8350 - specific Chief mount soon (RPA168 ?).



OK...now you have got me worried. I was planning on ordering the monoprice mount and modifying it as well. I have seen the youtube video on it and it seems pretty straight-forward. Should I save my cash and buy a better mount? What don't you like about the monoprice setup? TIA!


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russhater* /forum/post/20091278
> 
> 
> OK...now you have got me worried. I was planning on ordering the monoprice mount and modifying it as well. I have seen the youtube video on it and it seems pretty straight-forward. Should I save my cash and buy a better mount? What don't you like about the monoprice setup? TIA!



The Monoprice mount is fairly hard to adjust to perfection, but it can be done with a little patience. However, the whole projector is suspended by a single bolt, which even when tightened doesn't leave one with a sense of perfect confidence holding a $1000+ delicate piece of equipment. This is especially true if even more delicate and priceless people are sitting beneath it! It's probably secure enough, but way in the back of my mind there's an intermittent worry.


Once adjusted, it's pretty easy to knock off alignment. There's also bit of play, so that even adjusting the lens shift or focus will move the projector, but it usually eases back to where it was set immediately after you let go. The slightest touch sets the projector off oscillating with a small amplitude, and again, it settles down exactly where it was before if everything is tightened down.


My home theatre build just started getting wildly more expensive as I discovered all sorts of new equipment. So a strict budget build has evolved into something a bit more elaborate. Given this turn of events, it'd be a shame to have a less than perfect mount for the sake of $150.


----------



## speedman

Could someone link me to Arts calibration for the 8350... T Y...


----------



## Vao

How do guys exactly switching from 16:9 to 2:35.1 materials? i cant see it on the guide


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *speedman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could someone link me to Arts calibration for the 8350... T Y...



Projectorreviews.com. I just googled "arts 8350 calibration" and it comes up.


----------



## kaotikr1

The PRG-UNV mount is awesome and has fit projectors from the 8300/8700 to the heavy RS40.


It's a good one to look into. It offers gears to adjust so you can get it perfect with ease. I mounted two up the last couple days and it honestly took me 5 min after putting the projector Into the mount to adjust and square up.


----------



## FrankS

I am another VERY pleased Epson customer as they overnighted me a replacement projector to replace the one I just got that had a weird discoloration (on right-hand side of screen) in Cinema and Natural modes. And the replacement was a NEW projector as it came in retail box with remote and all accessories. This projector is spot on with conversion, clarity no discoloration!


----------



## newfmp3

Spent some time with pc connected to pj last night. I noticed that in cinema, and especially natural, I can tell my convergence is off more. In living room it is barely noticeable. In natural I can see that green is off by a pixel or two, but in living room mode, I see no real green outline around fonts like I can in natural, there is just a slight blue instead. To me living room is clearly sharper too. I am wondering if I should get my pj swapped, try another. I will grab some pics later. This is my first LCD so I am not used to this issue and unsure of how much of this is normal.


I am not using any horizontal image shift, maybe just a slight vertical shift since my pj is mounted low


----------



## dswdallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaotikr1* /forum/post/20093092
> 
> 
> The PRG-UNV mount is awesome and has fit projectors from the 8300/8700 to the heavy RS40.
> 
> 
> It's a good one to look into. It offers gears to adjust so you can get it perfect with ease. I mounted two up the last couple days and it honestly took me 5 min after putting the projector Into the mount to adjust and square up.




+1 - It holds my JVC Hd250 with no movement and is easy to set up.


----------



## TVAddikt

I have been reading a lot of threads about the 8350. I am thinking of getting a electric screen and wanted to use a 12 volt trigger. It appears as though the 8350 does not have a 12 volt output, am I correct in the lack of this feature??


----------



## speedman

My 8350 arrives tomorrow and I have my 100" screen mounted to my 8' ceiling... I will be placing my PJ 11' back from the screen... My question is, can I place PJ on a table 24" high and get a decent picture using the Lens shift?


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TVAddikt* /forum/post/20095112
> 
> 
> I have been reading a lot of threads about the 8350. I am thinking of getting a electric screen and wanted to use a 12 volt trigger. It appears as though the 8350 does not have a 12 volt output, am I correct in the lack of this feature??



Look on the right side of the back panel for a mini-DIN jack labeled "Trigger Out". That's the 12V trigger you are looking for.


----------



## Hagopian

Vao...you don't switch technically. The material is always shown in 16:9 aspect, you simply zoom up and lens shift so that the 2.35 material fully fills the screen. The black letterbox bars on the top and the bottom of 2.35 material are then off screen. I have been completely thrilled with how my 2.35 theater came out. It has a lot of WOW factor!!


----------



## Hagopian

1 Year of blood, sweat, tears, and money!! Enjoying every bit of it now!! I highly recommend going 2.40 if you can. It makes for such an impact when you have buddies over watching a game, and then you switch over to a 2.40 movie...majoy WOW factor!!


http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee


----------



## Vao

Oh man thats looks great. That's exactly what i needed to see.... and know...


Can you tell me how big is the screen and whats the throw distance


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20096393
> 
> 
> Vao...you don't switch technically. The material is always shown in 16:9 aspect, you simply zoom up and lens shift so that the 2.35 material fully fills the screen. The black letterbox bars on the top and the bottom of 2.35 material are then off screen. I have been completely thrilled with how my 2.35 theater came out. It has a lot of WOW factor!!



Just to be clear for the newbies. This only applies to those using a 2.35 screen. They project the 16:9 image in the center of the screen with gray bars on each side, but for 2.35 material they zoom so that the screen is filled and the gray bars drop off the top and bottom of the screen.


----------



## Hagopian

Vao, that's exactly a 125" diagonal 2.40 screen. I'm at about a 15.5 ft. throw!! I hope this helps you!! It's plenty bright, and detail is amazing!!


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/20096852
> 
> 
> Just to be clear for the newbies. This only applies to those using a 2.35 screen. They project the 16:9 image in the center of the screen with gray bars on each side, but for 2.35 material they zoom so that the screen is filled and the gray bars drop off the top and bottom of the screen.



Yes mjg, that is correct. That process of zooming up and lens shifting only applies to those using a 2.35/2.40 screen.


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/20095850
> 
> 
> Look on the right side of the back panel for a mini-DIN jack labeled "Trigger Out". That's the 12V trigger you are looking for.



I've tried to use that trigger and blew the motor on my Elunevision screen. I would love to see some documentation about how this is supposed to work. The owner's manual only mentions it briefly on pages 20 and 48.

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dede* /forum/post/20097285
> 
> 
> I've tried to use that trigger and blew the motor on my Elunevision screen. I would love to see some documentation about how this is supposed to work. The owner's manual only mentions it briefly on pages 20 and 48.
> 
> http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf



Actually, I thought it was pretty clear:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EpsonManual* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Trigger out port outputs a 12-volt DC signal
> 
> when the projector is turned on. This lets a central
> 
> control system monitor whether the projector is on
> 
> or off, and can be used to raise or lower your
> 
> projection screen automatically when the projector
> 
> is in use.



If the projector is on, there will be +12V on the pin. If the projector is off, there will be +0V on the pin. What they don't specify is the polarity of the signal. I would assume that +12V is on the tip and return on the shield, but would check with a voltmeter. You also need to enable the port in the menus.


Where you can get into trouble is if the electrical spec for the screen doesn't match. Some screens will have connectors that are just contact switches. These would require a relay. Others go up or down when voltage is applied and don't have limit switches or just have momentary voltage pulse. You need to understand what is expected and delivered on each end before connecting.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20097246
> 
> 
> Vao, that's exactly a 125" diagonal 2.40 screen. I'm at about a 15.5 ft. throw!! I hope this helps you!! It's plenty bright, and detail is amazing!!



post more screens please


----------



## Hagopian

Vao, I have to take more screen shots...I really don't have a lot. My problem is that the blue ray payer I have doesn't allow me to advance frame by frame in order to get a clear image on the screen for taking a picture. I have an older sony blue ray. I will try to take some more pics soon and post them.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20097817
> 
> 
> Vao, I have to take more screen shots...I really don't have a lot. My problem is that the blue ray payer I have doesn't allow me to advance frame by frame in order to get a clear image on the screen for taking a picture. I have an older sony blue ray. I will try to take some more pics soon and post them.



I'll be waiting thanks!


I'm planing to use HTPC instead blu ray player so i hope this will not be a problem when i switching between 16:9 and 2:35.1.


----------



## aaroen

Just got the 8350 yesterday and everything is cool. However, I cannot use the aspect control on the menu to zoom the image on a widescreen movie to fill out my 16x9 screen like I was able to do on two other PJs I have owned. The aspect is set to Normal and when I try any other aspect it doesn't respond. The input is HDMI which I believe is the problem but why have a menu option that cannot be used. I have never encountered this with any of my other projectors using HDMI. Doesn't make sense. It's like the PJ doesn't have an internal scaller, which I know is not true. Any help?


----------



## 42Plasmaman

The manual mentions that no other aspect ratio can be selected when using the HDMI input.


Not sure what you mean by turning a 16x9 in to widescreen.

You can use the zoom lens adjustment to do that assuming your have a widescreen aspect ratio screen.


----------



## joeags

I've got to say, my favorite part is with your son on the floor gazing at the huge screen in front of him on that second picture! Absolutely priceless! I've got a 4 year old, and that's the exact thing I'm thrilled about with him. Thanks for throwing that pic up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hagopian* 
1 Year of blood, sweat, tears, and money!! Enjoying every bit of it now!! I highly recommend going 2.40 if you can. It makes for such an impact when you have buddies over watching a game, and then you switch over to a 2.40 movie...majoy WOW factor!!


http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee


----------



## aaroen

What I mean is I have a 16x9 106 inch fixed screen and on all my other PJs that I have owned when watching a DVD that is wide screen aspece with top and bottom black bars, I can select screen or zoom option to have the movies aspect ratio scaled to fill out my screen without the black bars. And I do that with HDMI so this limitation on the Epson is rediculous.


----------



## fitbrit

And you don't have that option on the DVD player?


----------



## lakersin2025

This was the morning after I hooked it up and my 2 year old couldn't believe it! This is 122" onto just a high gloss white wall.


----------



## hanly2

Ok so I searched the thread but didn't find anything so here goes.

Last night while watching a movie, my wife said that the screen kept flashing green. Now this movie was a on demand movie from our comcast cable box if that makes a difference. I play ps3 on the pj and I have never seen this green screen yet. Has anyone else experienced this problem?


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok so I searched the thread but didn't find anything so here goes.
> 
> Last night while watching a movie, my wife said that the screen kept flashing green. Now this movie was a on demand movie from our comcast cable box if that makes a difference. I play ps3 on the pj and I have never seen this green screen yet. Has anyone else experienced this problem?



I've seen an occasional white flash while watching mkv movies. I think it may be because I have a 45' hdmi cable and a switcher but not sure. Not a big deal to me.


----------



## FrankS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2* /forum/post/20105236
> 
> 
> Ok so I searched the thread but didn't find anything so here goes.
> 
> Last night while watching a movie, my wife said that the screen kept flashing green. Now this movie was a on demand movie from our comcast cable box if that makes a difference. I play ps3 on the pj and I have never seen this green screen yet. Has anyone else experienced this problem?



Not to worry, I experience the same green screen flashes, I believe it is a common occurrence with Comcast boxes.


----------



## thebigeast44

I occasionally see a quick green/purple flash when watching a movie on my PS3 and when watching programs on my Time Warner box. I use a Panny AX200 at present and will likely be buying this projector soon. I believe it is due to HDMI issues - I use a 50 foot HDMI cable from my Onkyo receiver to my projector. I hope another connection standard becomes the norm in the future and HDMI is cast aside into the dust bin of history where it belongs.


----------



## poblack

Hagopian,


Can you post a screenshot showing 16:9 footage so I can see how it looks with bars on each side?


What exactly do you have to do manually when switching from 16:9 to 2.35?


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poblack* /forum/post/20108537
> 
> 
> Hagopian,
> 
> 
> Can you post a screenshot showing 16:9 footage so I can see how it looks with bars on each side?
> 
> 
> What exactly do you have to do manually when switching from 16:9 to 2.35?



Poblack, yes I will post some...I need to take some first. Basically, to toggle between aspect ratios it's quite simple. Provided that your projector is within arms reach as mine is. If your projector is too high, beyond simple reach, it could be a pain. Here is my process:


1 ) Load 2.40 content ( for me usually on a Blue Ray disk )

2 ) Pause it when it gets to the "rating" screen ( Rated R, Rated G, etc. )

3 ) Zoom up until the width of the image fits my 2.4 screen exactly.

4 ) Then use the lens shift to adjust the height.


Now because my projector is a little off center horizantally, I also have to adjust the left/right lens shift a little to line it up.


The whole process, once the movie is paused, takes me about 5 seconds to dial in perfectly. Although the lens shift wheels don't have a good locking mechanism, they are the kind of dial that you have to get the feel for. But it is really not a big deal.


I can't stress enough..the WOW factor of going to the 2.40 content has amazed everybody who has watched the transition from regular 16:9 tv content, to a movie in 2.4. Well worth it. For me, I really didn't have a choice, I wanted the biggest screen possible, with a fixed 50 inch height. I didn't have any more vertical room that would even allow for a 16:9 screen.


I built my own screen using the elite cinewhite material purchased from B&H photo for $165. I bought about $40 of hardware, about $30 of black velvet. Now, I will admit, I really did some work on my screen frame, that was a little tricky. If you're interested I can tell you how I made it all work for under $225.


----------



## Dede




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/20097563
> 
> 
> 
> Where you can get into trouble is if the electrical spec for the screen doesn't match. Some screens will have connectors that are just contact switches. These would require a relay. Others go up or down when voltage is applied and don't have limit switches or just have momentary voltage pulse. You need to understand what is expected and delivered on each end before connecting.



Thank you for the feedback - I guess the information from Epson is all that is needed. I will look for information from EluneVision about the trigger feature, especially the top of page 2 of their brochure.

http://www.eastporters.com/PDF/Luna/brocheur.pdf


----------



## e23

Picked up an 8350 on Friday to start my media room build out. I have to say that I was going into the purchase assuming that I would possibly be returning it because I might not be happy with the picture...


Well, I was wrong! Picture is amazing and I'm using the textured wall! I can't wait to see what it looks like after I build my screen.


----------



## mike734

OK I've been spot checking this thread since the beginning and have not heard these criticisms.


o The vertical/horizontal adjustments are springy and do not maintain their position over time. Adjusting one affects the other. Also the springback means you have to overshoot the correct position and hope it springs back to the correct position.


o The focus is sharp but I seem to have to adjust it once in a while especially when I switch between different inputs.


Other than those two minor complaints, I love it.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/20110872
> 
> 
> OK I've been spot checking this thread since the beginning and have not heard these criticisms.
> 
> 
> o *The vertical/horizontal adjustments are springy and do not maintain their position over time.* I seem to recall reading about that in this thread. *Adjusting one affects the other.* That is the case with most projectors, unless you are talking about mortorized shift. *Also the springback means you have to overshoot the correct position and hope it springs back to the correct position.* Pretty sure that this has been brought up a few times.
> 
> 
> o *The focus is sharp but I seem to have to adjust it once in a while especially when I switch between different inputs.*
> 
> This has been discussed before.
> 
> 
> Other than those two minor complaints, I love it.


These are pretty much minor complaints, but can be irritating.


----------



## gsmollin

I understand that the 8350 doubles 24 fps content to 48 fps. Is this enough to eliminate judder in cinematic content? If memory serves, the 8700UB triples 24 fps to 72 fps. Is there a noticeable difference, i.e., is the upgrade to the 8700UB worthwhile. (Not counting CFI.)


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

I see no judder on mine when I switch it to 48hz, the picture looks fantastic, the camera sweeping slowly across the screen motion are smooth. The colors POP off the screen, the skin tones are so natural out the box it is insane







no tweaking needed, maybe only saturation of color, but other than that this Epson 8350 rocks for the money!! see some of my sreen shots below.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

here is some bluray and HD-DVD screen shots..


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

these are on a 100" screen but for now I am only projects 84" (moving soon and my space will be much bigger to get 100" out of it). I learned to live with using the Iris on highspeed setting to get the best blacks on screen....


----------



## poblack

Once the 8350 is on 2.4 aspect mode, will it stay there even if you turn off the projector then turn it back on?


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poblack* /forum/post/20112209
> 
> 
> Once the 8350 is on 2.4 aspect mode, will it stay there even if you turn off the projector then turn it back on?



Poblack, yes for sure. Remember, the adjustment is 100% manual. Zoom ring, and then lens shift dials....so yes...it will stay in that mode until you manually, take it back to 16:9.


----------



## poblack

Thanks Hagopian.


How wide is your black border around the screen?


----------



## ramjet81

I'm about to buy the 8350 to replace my AE900, which is ceiling mounted with an Omnimount PMD-1. The 8350 manual says ceiling mount requires a special adaptor, but the PMD-1 worked with the Panny by just screwing into mounting holes on the bottom of the projector.


Anyone know if I really need any additional hardware to mount the 8350 using the PMD-1? Or of any compatibility issues between the two?


Thanks.

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-Fron.../dp/B0002IWIBE


----------



## chicagovet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FrankS* /forum/post/20083210
> 
> 
> you seem to have what I have on my new 8350 but mine is on right side. Does your appear on all video modes (Cinema, Natural Living Room etc). Mine only appeared on Natural and Cinema. Talked to Epson and they are sending replacement so I'm crossing fingers.



I've had my 8350 since Christmas. Works perfectly--beautifully, in fact. Except...


...a couple of days ago, I noticed a dim, baseball-sized, dark green spot during dark/black scenes. I suspected dust, and sure enough--other posts here seem to confirm my suspicion.


Does anyone know, if Epson should offer a replacement projector, would it be a new one or a refurbished one? Is it better just to live with the blob? Would it be to my benefit if I contacted the seller (Visual Apex) first?


Thanks!


----------



## TVAddikt

I am planning my screen size. I have not bought but am planning to purchase the 8350. I am leaning hard to go 2.35:1. I had originally planned a 120" diagnol 16:9, so when while I planned the size of the screen I am attempting to not lose screen size on 1.78:1 material. So now to my question.

Can the Epson 8350 handle a 58" X 136" 2.35:1 screen (that comes to 148" diagnol)? if it can, does that size of screen require complete light control?

Thanks


----------



## danieloneil01

Sorry if this has been asked. But I'm coming from a Optoma HD70. I was looking to get the 8700 but seen this one at a fraction of the cost and still 1080p. Room will be close to no amb light with darkened walls. Room 11x15, will/would I notice much of a difference between the 8350/8700?


----------



## invadergir

Man i feel good but sad at the same time. I joined the fray by purchasing the 8350 today, but have to wait before I can set it up. That could possibly take a month or so to do. Got a good deal up hear in Canada from a place called East Hamilton Radio that had a package deal which included a 106" EVERIK EV-PC106W pull down screen for $1500 before taxes. All part of their 80th anniversary sale, in which i think was ending soon. Again so happy to have a projector but sad i have to wait.


----------



## Hagopian

Quote:

Originally Posted by *poblack* 
Thanks Hagopian.


How wide is your black border around the screen?
Poblack, I used 1 x 4" poplar boards....but I beveled them, something I highly recommend doing if you have a table saw...this allows for all light that is projected off screen to deflect away from you line of sight. In other words, even if the image is slightly projecting onto the velvet, you won't see it.


----------



## Robert2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hagopian* 
Poblack, I used 1 x 4" poplar boards....but I beveled them, something I highly recommend doing if you have a table saw...this allows for all light that is projected off screen to deflect away from you line of sight. In other words, even if the image is slightly projecting onto the velvet, you won't see it.
Can you take a close up picture on how you beveled it? Did you just use a 45 degree cut? Thanks in advance!


----------



## jayn_j

Quote:

Originally Posted by *danieloneil01* 
Sorry if this has been asked. But I'm coming from a Optoma HD70. I was looking to get the 8700 but seen this one at a fraction of the cost and still 1080p. Room will be close to no amb light with darkened walls. Room 11x15, will/would I notice much of a difference between the 8350/8700?
I have viewed them side by side in a darkened dealer room. There is a difference, but I wouldn't call it major. I think it is something where most people could get equally lost in the picture.


----------



## poblack

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hagopian* 
Poblack, I used 1 x 4" poplar boards....but I beveled them, something I highly recommend doing if you have a table saw...this allows for all light that is projected off screen to deflect away from you line of sight. In other words, even if the image is slightly projecting onto the velvet, you won't see it.
Where you able to find 1x4" poplar long enough to span the entire length of the screen or did you use multiple pieces? I'm thinking about using 3 1/4" molding.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poblack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Where you able to find 1x4" poplar long enough to span the entire length of the screen or did you use multiple pieces? I'm thinking about using 3 1/4" molding.



Home Depot. They have 1x in whatever length you want. Also check while you are there, they had a MDF trim piece that was sold by the foot that was already beveled. Do not need 45 degrees, just enough to bevel the edge and take the square edge off of it. But go look for the MDF piece, it is already done for you.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poblack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Where you able to find 1x4" poplar long enough to span the entire length of the screen or did you use multiple pieces? I'm thinking about using 3 1/4" molding.



Also, go to the diy screen section. There are several diy screen frame builds there, pictures and all.


----------



## DrGunner

I just bought my projector and finally got it set up. Im not sure whats wrong but I think I might have convergence problem..... The picture looks great. Crisp and sharp. However, whenever any sort of text comes up, especially white letters....it looks blurry. Is this due to poor convergence or is it something else?


Is there a quick and easy way to check this?


Also, Im having trouble lining up my projector (ceiling mounted). I have it 98% good but the problem Im running into is that the picture is taller and wider at vertical and horizontal midpoints, and slightly narrower at the corners, almost like a "bubble effect." Any thoughts on this?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrGunner* /forum/post/20116627
> 
> 
> I just bought my projector and finally got it set up. Im not sure whats wrong but I think I might have convergence problem..... The picture looks great. Crisp and sharp. However, whenever any sort of text comes up, especially white letters....it looks blurry. Is this due to poor convergence or is it something else?
> 
> 
> Is there a quick and easy way to check this?
> 
> 
> Also, Im having trouble lining up my projector (ceiling mounted). I have it 98% good but the problem Im running into is that the picture is taller and wider at vertical and horizontal midpoints, and slightly narrower at the corners, almost like a "bubble effect." Any thoughts on this?



Blurry as in white text shows red and green on the edges, or blurry as in out of focus? Convergence problem is the one that shows red and green.


----------



## GISMO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FrankS* /forum/post/20106721
> 
> 
> Not to worry, I experience the same green screen flashes, I believe it is a common occurrence with Comcast boxes.



i do not have this projector but do get a quick green screen flash sometimes i only get it when using the comcast box.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/20116697
> 
> 
> Blurry as in white text shows red and green on the edges, or blurry as in out of focus? Convergence problem is the one that shows red and green.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GISMO1* /forum/post/20116714
> 
> 
> i do not have this projector but do get a quick green screen flash sometimes i only get it when using the comcast box.



The projector is re-negotiating the HDMI hand shake. In other words when the signal changes resolution (480, 720 & 1080).


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20116353
> 
> 
> Home Depot. They have 1x in whatever length you want. Also check while you are there, they had a MDF trim piece that was sold by the foot that was already beveled. Do not need 45 degrees, just enough to bevel the edge and take the square edge off of it. But go look for the MDF piece, it is already done for you.




For the record, MDF is far more suitable a material. It's thinner, beveled, will NOT warp, cuts extremely easy...accepts Staples more easily... and comes in non-cut lengths of 16' that you can then have cut to the length you need (...+7" to accommodate Mitering...) It's also considerably less expensive per foot than Kiln-Dried Poplar.


Perhaps most important is that with the Taper placed inside next to the screen surface, there is no chance of getting a "Shadow" caused by ambient light coming in from any direction.



All things above being considered, there can be only one choice. IMHO...of course!


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poblack* /forum/post/20116139
> 
> 
> Where you able to find 1x4" poplar long enough to span the entire length of the screen or did you use multiple pieces? I'm thinking about using 3 1/4" molding.



Yes Poblack...I bought 2 - 10' pieces for the top and bottom spans...and 4 - 6' pieces for the sides, and support braces. I used the scrap from the 6' pieces to make french cleats on which to mount the screen.


----------



## Kilgore

For all of you interested in discussion of screens and screen construction, I highly recommend you go the the Screens forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=23


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/20117346
> 
> 
> For all of you interested in discussion of screens and screen construction, I highly recommend you go the the Screens forum:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=23



Oh my, let's be sure to include the definitive Forum for true "Screen Construction" in the DIY sense.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110 


On that Forum you will find any/ every variety of Screen you could ever need or imagine...as well as a few applications that just might defy your imagination.










Probably among the most impressive things to consider is being able to make a screen...almost any type and any size, and often do so for less than 1/10 the cost of a Mfg version.


----------



## tweakalot

Hello crowd, from the screenshots and reviews, I think I will pull the trigger on the 8350. In the near future, I will be bothering a few for some calibration tips. Looking to purchase in a week or so. For those who demoed, on image quality how does this compare to the ae4000? Is this guy prone to dust blob than any other? Any uniformity issues? Thank you.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TVAddikt* /forum/post/20113195
> 
> 
> I am planning my screen size. I have not bought but am planning to purchase the 8350. I am leaning hard to go 2.35:1. I had originally planned a 120" diagnol 16:9, so when while I planned the size of the screen I am attempting to not lose screen size on 1.78:1 material. So now to my question.
> 
> Can the Epson 8350 handle a 58" X 136" 2.35:1 screen (that comes to 148" diagnol)? if it can, does that size of screen require complete light control?
> 
> Thanks



First, I apologize for not having responded to your PM'd sooner.


I do see you've authored several other Threads in the last 2-3 days and have garnered several responses. Do you still need any other input?


----------



## mekkerl

Is there a way to RENAME the saved memories?


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/20120205
> 
> 
> Is there a way to RENAME the saved memories?



only on the 8700ub, I did not see it for the 8350


----------



## FendersRule

Can anyone direct me to some screenshots of the 8350 (some nice big ass 1080p+ ones that really show the quality at it's finest)?


I'm going to be upgrading from a calibrated Toshiba 42" LCD from 2008 (matt face) the most accurate and pristine LCD I've ever had the pleasure to enjoy to the 8350. My American Express is just laying out on my desk, demanding to be used.


Am I correct that you cannot get better than this for $1179, and that this would be a step up in quality (and of course, screen size) over my Toshiba?


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FendersRule* /forum/post/20120903
> 
> 
> Can anyone direct me to some screenshots of the 8350 (some nice big ass 1080p+ ones that really show the quality at it's finest)?
> 
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading from a calibrated Toshiba 42" LCD from 2008 (matt face) the most accurate and pristine LCD I've ever had the pleasure to enjoy to the 8350. My American Express is just laying out on my desk, demanding to be used.
> 
> 
> Am I correct that you cannot get better than this for $1179, and that this would be a step up in quality (and of course, screen size) over my Toshiba?










these are mine from the screenshot thread, look thru the thread and you will find others







http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...965178&page=56


----------



## ferbal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tweakalot* /forum/post/20117523
> 
> 
> ...For those who demoed, on image quality how does this compare to the ae4000? ...



Hi Tweakalot

Read this:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...nasonic-AE400U 

IMO, the Panasonic AE4000 is more comparable with the Epson 8700


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FendersRule* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone direct me to some screenshots of the 8350 (some nice big ass 1080p+ ones that really show the quality at it's finest)?
> 
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading from a calibrated Toshiba 42" LCD from 2008 (matt face) the most accurate and pristine LCD I've ever had the pleasure to enjoy to the 8350. My American Express is just laying out on my desk, demanding to be used.
> 
> 
> Am I correct that you cannot get better than this for $1179, and that this would be a step up in quality (and of course, screen size) over my Toshiba?



I prefer a good plasma over any LCD


I also prefer Gibson over fender










and after getting the 8350, I realize I also prefer dlp over LCD pj's. Consider dlp, a Mitsubishi 4000 maybe


----------



## SonyCrusader

I noted a while back that my 8350 had some mild convergence issues. I received a replacement from Epson and oddly enough, it was pretty much the same.


First, the customer service from epson is just remarkable. They really seem like they take customer satisfaction seriously. It's a breath of fresh air.


I got really annoyed with running back and forth to check my focus. The focus barrel is not terribly precise. it's a pretty coarse thread... a little goes a long way, and more often past where I wanted!


So, I borrowed an old calibrator's trick and grabbed some binoculars. That was kind of a hoot, as I was only about 20 feet back and they didn't focus that closely. I had to rummage through the old camera bag and stuck a 2x close-up ring on the eyepiece. Presto! Tele-vision! Stuck a target on the screen to focus the eyes and good to go.


I have a bit of vertical shift going on. Whether that serves to introduce some color spread, I can't say.


What I did find that, using a fine crosshatch with dots, I could just watch the dots... they get a flare to one side or the other as they go off-focus, sort of like doing astigmatism on a CRT. I shot for a balance between a tight spot, visible pixel structure. The really cool part is, once really dialed in as opposed to "It's been an hour and I've had enough back-and-forth working this #@*! lens" the red convergence deviation was for the most part gone. It's certainly improved to the point where it would be hardly noticeable at any rational viewing distance.


I feel a heck of a lot better about this machine now. Actually I'm freakin' awed. With convergence back and the refined focus it is just beautiful. I haven't done any cal beyond a quick 2-pass white balance and trying to find the sweet spot for the sharpness setting. How cool is that sharpness control... horizontal AND vertical! Hello multibursts.


Time to go do some white balance. And control for secondaries! Gawd. why didn't I do this sooner.


Anyway, if you have a bit of misconvergence, check focus. It only has to be off by a near-imperceptible speck of a turn to create issues.


----------



## tweakalot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ferbal* /forum/post/20123256
> 
> 
> Hi Tweakalot
> 
> Read this:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...nasonic-AE400U
> 
> IMO, the Panasonic AE4000 is more comparable with the Epson 8700



thank you ferbal, that helped me made my decision. i am now closer that before.


----------



## TWM442766

Just bought one and trying to figure out how to check convergence? sorry if this is a dumb question.


----------



## danieloneil01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20125823
> 
> 
> I prefer a good plasma over any LCD
> 
> 
> I also prefer Gibson over fender
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and after getting the 8350, I realize I also prefer dlp over LCD pj's. Consider dlp, a Mitsubishi 4000 maybe



LOL, man have I been out the game for to long. Explain please. My last projector was a DLP and I was looking at getting this one or the 8700. I might be like you and if so is there a $2k 1080P DLP out there that's as good as the 8700?


----------



## pacemaker

*Epson Super White*


what is this feature?

enabling it expands whites meaning i have to turn up the contrast by +13 to get whites back in calibration


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tweakalot* /forum/post/20117523
> 
> 
> Hello crowd, from the screenshots and reviews, I think I will pull the trigger on the 8350. In the near future, I will be bothering a few for some calibration tips. Looking to purchase in a week or so. For those who demoed, on image quality how does this compare to the ae4000? Is this guy prone to dust blob than any other? Any uniformity issues? Thank you.



i was able to compare the inferior Epson 3200, which is available in the UK at £300 LESS than the 3600 which is the same as the 8350, directly at home with a Panasonic 4000

i can say that the Panny was not worth the extra money! in fact it was very noticeably dimmer than the epson and again that was against the 3200 with only 25000 contrast compared to the 3500 with 50000. black were slightly darker but then again may be comparable with the 8350


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20125823
> 
> 
> I prefer a good plasma over any LCD
> 
> 
> I also prefer Gibson over fender
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and after getting the 8350, I realize I also prefer dlp over LCD pj's. Consider dlp, a Mitsubishi 4000 maybe



As long as he can tolerate the additional fan noise, light leak and the occasional uniformity issue in color, then go for it.

Also make sure you can place it just right since it has no lens shift.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20127974
> 
> 
> As long as he can tolerate the additional fan noise, light leak and the occasional uniformity issue in color, then go for it.
> 
> Also make sure you can place it just right since it has no lens shift.



Don't forget the horrible rainbows that give you a headache


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget the horrible rainbows that give you a headache



Yep for those that it affects. Even high end DLP is horrible for me.


----------



## jpsplace

Got my Mits4000 and installed it today. Using a NPL rear wall mount / inverted. Lens to wall is 158" and that gives me a picture size that I can zoom from 87" dia to 125" diag. Picture is unbelievable - and thats on a white textured wall. Picture is bright in low power mode and the detail and color are very good with no adjustment. Very Happy with this purchase. Was going to do a screen but no hurry - 120" will be my final size.

This projector works well in my light controlled room - noticed that picture washes out with lights on but I dont watch like that - so its perfect.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpsplace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got my Mits4000 and installed it today. Using a NPL rear wall mount / inverted. Lens to wall is 158" and that gives me a picture size that I can zoom from 87" dia to 125" diag. Picture is unbelievable - and thats on a white textured wall. Picture is bright in low power mode and the detail and color are very good with no adjustment. Very Happy with this purchase. Was going to do a screen but no hurry - 120" will be my final size.
> 
> This projector works well in my light controlled room - noticed that picture washes out with lights on but I dont watch like that - so its perfect.



I swear this was the Epson 8350 thread...?.?...


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpsplace* /forum/post/20129188
> 
> 
> Got my Mits4000 and installed it today. Using a NPL rear wall mount / inverted. Lens to wall is 158" and that gives me a picture size that I can zoom from 87" dia to 125" diag. Picture is unbelievable - and thats on a white textured wall. Picture is bright in low power mode and the detail and color are very good with no adjustment. Very Happy with this purchase. Was going to do a screen but no hurry - 120" will be my final size.
> 
> This projector works well in my light controlled room - noticed that picture washes out with lights on but I dont watch like that - so its perfect.



Glad your enjoying your picture - Hows that 33db fan sound ?

The main reason for posting this is I see lots of discussion of picture V/S picture but little if any mention of audio .Yes the picture is the main reason we all buy projectors but I'm also an Audiophile and I couldnt be happier with my Epson fan ( no noise ) !

Yes I can tell the difference being as my last projector was the Marantz 4001 great picture too but its fan noise really bugged me during quiet scenes. Just something to consider for anyone trying to choose between the two.


----------



## civilsavage

i own a dt-510, tell me how does the picture compare to the old 4001?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcmountainman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad your enjoying your picture - Hows that 33db fan sound ?
> 
> The main reason for posting this is I see lots of discussion of picture V/S picture but little if any mention of audio .Yes the picture is the main reason we all buy projectors but I'm also an Audiophile and I couldnt be happier with my Epson fan ( no noise ) !
> 
> Yes I can tell the difference being as my last projector was the Marantz 4001 great picture too but its fan noise really bugged me during quiet scenes. Just something to consider for anyone trying to choose between the two.




No doubt, the epson is quiet, and with it pointed at my HP screen, I can keep it in Eco mode and Cinema and it's darn near whisper quiet and plenty bright.


----------



## ravenlocke

Just a quick update on my experiences with my 8350. I have had the projector for over a month now and I am still thrilled with it! My convergence is perfect, I have had no lenses shift drift and I am dust blob free at 160 hours on the bulb so far. I have everything tweaked to my liking and the picture is exceptional for both movies and games. This projector is just tremendous bang for the buck and I am glad I pulled the trigger on it.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20131745
> 
> 
> Just a quick update on my experiences with my 8350. I have had the projector for over a month now and I am still thrilled with it! My convergence is perfect, I have had no lenses shift drift and I am dust blob free at 160 hours on the bulb so far. I have everything tweaked to my liking and the picture is exceptional for both movies and games. This projector is just tremendous bang for the buck and I am glad I pulled the trigger on it.



I agree +1 I have had mine for a month only a stingy 40hrs, I know, it's low but I just try and watch bluray purchase or rentals, not TV on it, well maybe some shows







. Other than that no convergence issues and no dust blobs, when not in use I keep lens cap on and cover the projector.







but yes, best BANG for the BUCK, and what's with people chiming in on OTHER projectors







I don't get it, you don't like the Epson, talk about it on your projector thread.


----------



## snowzach

Also wanted to post a positive review...


I hooked it up last night, shot it on a greenish wall and was in awe how good it looked... My wife came in and said... wow.. Wow... WOW.. WOWWWWW..


I tend to over-read and over-analyse that I'm going to end up with some problems like dust blobs or convergence/bad pixels/whatever..


Perfect projector, no issues.. Love it...


----------



## FendersRule

Dammit I'm buying one next week.


You guys are bad examples.


----------



## Diesel1

Watching mine right now. Pretty impressed out of the box. I read alot a really was interested in the JVC RS40, but decided to give it some more time to get the bugs out. Then this will replace the epson 83+ in my bedroom. Got it for 1099.00. Just ordered the RPA 168 mount. I'll be watching tabletop for a few days. I'm sure it will be even better when adjusted, connected hdmi and put on the SF V2 from upstairs.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

This one goes out to Hordeall and anyone who wants to get this pjay instead of a large LCD/PLASMA, and doesn't want to ceiling mount but wall mount, this the sanus wall mount (found at Target for $26) this is a manual Elite screen around $100 in a 9x9 room for an 84" 16x9 screen, you still get solid black, colors that pop just like any 55-60" plasma/LCD and really great angles as well

PS yes there are wire covers that come with the wall mount, I got lazy after I fired Epson up and didn't feel like crawling behind my HT chairs to put up the covers which will just go down when I move the pjay to my new apt that will be 12x13 and I will use the enire 100" screen!!!


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

here is the angle shot coming into the small HT room that is a 1080p trailer to cowboys and Aliens, love this pjay!!!!!































By spinster23 at 2011-03-07


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> here is the angle shot coming into the small HT room that is a 1080p trailer to cowboys and Aliens, love this pjay!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By spinster23 at 2011-03-07



Looks good, I can't wait to get mine fired up. It has been sitting in my office for a month waiting for the theatre in the basement to be done!

Laying tile and getting carpet installed in the next couple weeks, can't wait.

What screen are you using?


----------



## lakersin2025

A shot from tonight watching TRON at 122" on my apartment wall. The Dude!


----------



## mech27

Can anyone say how the 8350 is on SD movies I have over 200 & don't want to replace them all.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/20139279
> 
> 
> Can anyone say how the 8350 is on SD movies I have over 200 & don't want to replace them all.



they will look as good as they can


----------



## gsmollin

I don't know if this question has been answered, but I can't search on "x.v.Color", the search returns only "color", so I get thousands of hits.


What is the significance of x.v.Color mode? Cinema mode seems to be more accurate, and x.v.Color has no adjustments in the menu. I have found no explanation in Art's review either, he calibrates in Cinema mode.


----------



## bjmsam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20140293
> 
> 
> I don't know if this question has been answered, but I can't search on "x.v.Color", the search returns only "color", so I get thousands of hits.



You can search like this .

It's also known as XvYCC .


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20140068
> 
> 
> they will look as good as they can



Actually I have found that SD material looks better on my 2005 projector than any of my newer projectors.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20138076
> 
> 
> Looks good, I can't wait to get mine fired up. It has been sitting in my office for a month waiting for the theatre in the basement to be done!
> 
> Laying tile and getting carpet installed in the next couple weeks, can't wait.
> 
> What screen are you using?



Elite manual pull down screen 100" works great for a $99 screen


----------



## forkdeath

What is the best setting to set my camera to take a good movie screenshot? Encase you are interested I have a Sony DSC-TX9. Do I need to pause the picture? Just looking for tips.


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjmsam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can search like this .
> 
> It's also known as XvYCC .



Great info, but a more important question ... With a PS3 and blu rays will it give me better results (in theory)/ is it preferred to cinema mode with appropriate hardware and video sources?


----------



## bjmsam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darealgerk* /forum/post/20141139
> 
> 
> Great info, but a more important question ... With a PS3 and blu rays will it give me better results (in theory)/ is it preferred to cinema mode with appropriate hardware and video sources?



From the links I posted:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wiki_page* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> xvYCC is not supported by DVD-Video or Blu-ray, but is supported by the high-definition recording format AVCHD and PlayStation 3.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eliwankenobi* /forum/post/19495090
> 
> 
> Not really for movies, the x.v. color is for extended color gamut and there are no movies mastered with that yet (that I know off). Maybe a ps3 game here and there, but I haven't seen one yet that says in the manual that it uses the extended color gamut.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *forkdeath* /forum/post/20141105
> 
> 
> What is the best setting to set my camera to take a good movie screenshot? Encase you are interested I have a Sony DSC-TX9. Do I need to pause the picture? Just looking for tips.



You need to set the ISO between 80-200, you need to pause the picture, do not use flash, and if you have very steady hands use your hands but it is recommended to place the camera on a tripod or on top of something flat and stable and use the timer to take the picture. All my shots are with my steady hand







, but I will try my little table top tripod and prop the camera up on a box sitting in the center home theater chair to see how it come out


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darealgerk* /forum/post/20141139
> 
> 
> Great info, but a more important question ... With a PS3 and blu rays will it give me better results (in theory)/ is it preferred to cinema mode with appropriate hardware and video sources?



As far as I can make out, this setting seems to be as close to an ISF calibration out of the box as humanely possible. Paired with my PS3, just about everything seems to be dialed in for watching blurays. I prefer cinema mode myself though, as I like tweeking things a bit for my own viewing preferences...


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

okay this is the wall mount I use for everyone who wants to know, they do sell it at Target around $26.00, all you would need to get is a shelf from Lowes or Home depot. (I used a metal center channel shelf from omnimount used to hold up the center channel for rear projected TV's Like my Sony SXRD 60" that I sold to get the Epson







). fairly in expensive and works great, see my posted pics a few posts back. Again not for everyone only the new Pjay owners that want to wall mount, unless the ceiling mount guys want to change their minds









PS it does have 4 sections of wire cover that go below to hide most of the wires, I just didn't put mine on as I got excited after mounting it and left it at that since I am moving to a bigger place would have taken it down anyway.


----------



## darealgerk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I can make out, this setting seems to be as close to an ISF calibration out of the box as humanely possible. Paired with my PS3, just about everything seems to be dialed in for watching blurays. I prefer cinema mode myself though, as I like tweeking things a bit for my own viewing preferences...



Thanks for the replies. I like tweaking too, but with my reference screen very little was needed. Out of the box was really really close to spot on for me aside from the gamma.


----------



## c-69

Hi everybody.

As a brand new owner of a 3200 (8350) I like to say thanks for all the info provided in this forum.

I had some major problems getting the black out of my shadows.

It took me 2 days to figure things out how to optimize the Epson EH-TW3200.

As usual when I do something like that, I start a blog to collect all the info in one place.

The problem with posting crucial info in a forum is it gets scrambled over several pages and mostly easily lost.

So if anybody is interested, have a look at the Epson EH-TW3200 insider blog


----------



## gsmollin

Thanks bjmsam, Googling xvYcc gave me the info on x.v.Color.


The short story is that this is a video specification with a larger color gamut than used in cinema, and an encoding scheme that is not compatible with DVD and BD, and also much other HT hardware. You would need equipment compatible with HDMI 1.3 to use it. The most probable near-term uses are on video game consoles (PS3) and some computer graphics cards, and some camcorders. Otherwise it will clip your dynamic range.


----------



## kipg

i have a infocus 7205 that needs to be replaced in the next week or two. I have had this for several years shooting on a 82" Stewart Firehawk, but starting to have lots of problems with projector. Was thinking of just going to a 65 inch lcd or Sharps new 70, but after looking at surthe 65 today I'm not sure I can give up all those inches. My question is can I purchase from a big box store or any advertisers on here and return within 10-15 days or a few hours of watching without penalty if not happy? I have no problem with paying shipping. Worried more about dlp to lcd, brightness, etc.


----------



## jacampbell

I would like to replace my Sanyo Z3 with the 8350 but I don't want to run HDMI yet and buy a new AVR. How does this thing do with component? Are there tweak setting for it with both component and HDMI? Forgive me if this was covered but the thread is huge. Thanks.

I am amazed that the price of these things keeps dropping. They are like gas BBQ's. They self destruct because of the heat they generate. My Sanyo is becoming a blue haze machine.

Cheers all,


----------



## zyad

What do you guys think of an 8350 combined with this "silver" screen:
http://www.eastporters.com/estore/ca...category_id=41 


Theatre room will have complete light control.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mech27* 
Can anyone say how the 8350 is on SD movies I have over 200 & don't want to replace them all.
As long as you have a good upconverter or blu-ray player, you should be fine but don't expect HD PQ.

The larger the screen, the more short comings of SD that will be noticed when compared to HD content.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jacampbell* 
I would like to replace my Sanyo Z3 with the 8350 but I don't want to run HDMI yet and buy a new AVR. How does this thing do with component? Are there tweak setting for it with both component and HDMI? Forgive me if this was covered but the thread is huge. Thanks.

I am amazed that the price of these things keeps dropping. They are like gas BBQ's. They self destruct because of the heat they generate. My Sanyo is becoming a blue haze machine.

Cheers all,
1. Component will usually look softer(not as sharp/crisp) than HDMI but you'll get HD PQ (I believe you might be limited to 720p).

2. No separate tweak for componet and HDMI but you can store presets.


----------



## joeags

I'm pretty sure component goes up to 1080i, but you can't upconvert over component cables. You would need HDMI for that.


On a side note, I know you said you don't want to run HDMI and get a new receiver - BUT... you could run the HDMI, and go HDMI out from your Blu-ray player to the projector, and go optical to your receiver. You wouldn't have to do both at the same time. You could keep your other devices (cable, whatever) going through the receiver to the projector via component. Again, I know you said you don't want to run HDMI, but you could get a 25' HDMI cable from monoprice for under $25 shipped, so that COULD be worth it, even for a surface mount of the cable...


Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
1. Component will usually look softer(not as sharp/crisp) than HDMI but you'll get HD PQ (I believe you might be limited to 720p).

2. No separate tweak for componet and HDMI but you can store presets.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zyad* /forum/post/20145956
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of an 8350 combined with this "silver" screen:
> http://www.eastporters.com/estore/ca...category_id=41
> 
> 
> Theatre room will have complete light control.




The "Build" seems pretty well done...and the Trim seems to be of excellent quality.


However there are a couple Red Flags.


# 1.4-gain, 3-ply Perlux-Silver material for ultimate home theater use

# Superior color accuracy, high contrast and *reduced* hot-spotting

*Reduced Hot-spotting?* That doesn't sound so good, especially with a 8350's lumen output.

If you place the 8350 about as close to the screen as you possibly can and still Zoom out to fill the 128" screen surface, and use "low lamp" mode, you can help to mitigate hot-spotting to a degree. But really...starting out at a disadvantage and then trying to adjust to compensate is never an easy or advisable thing to consider...unless one simply has to do so.


High Contrast? Unless the Screen's color is a Gray that works to attenuate black levels, with 1.4 gain, the only outcome will be to "reduce" contrast...not even "maintain' existing contrast performance. The "Silver" can / could help...but the main emphasis of that screen is the pearlescent finish and the gain such provides. Had they made the Screen significantly darker via the addition of more silver and/or a "Gray-ing" additive, the claim of "Increased Contrast' could have been made...and even perhaps validated.


All things considered, the listed price on the Link is a good one for a Fixed Screen of any quality...and the example shown seems to fit that description. Sales hype notwithstanding. But be prepared to adjust your PJ placement and calibrated values to get anything close to ideally suited image quality.


----------



## zyad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20147254
> 
> 
> The "Build" seems pretty well done...and the Trim seems to be of excellent quality.
> 
> 
> However there are a couple Red Flags.
> 
> 
> # 1.4-gain, 3-ply Perlux-Silver material for ultimate home theater use
> 
> # Superior color accuracy, high contrast and *reduced* hot-spotting
> 
> *Reduced Hot-spotting?* That doesn't sound so good, especially with a 8350's lumen output.
> 
> If you place the 8350 about as close to the screen as you possibly can and still Zoom out to fill the 128" screen surface, and use "low lamp" mode, you can help to mitigate hot-spotting to a degree. But really...starting out at a disadvantage and then trying to adjust to compensate is never an easy or advisable thing to consider...unless one simply has to do so.
> 
> 
> High Contrast? Unless the Screen's color is a Gray that works to attenuate black levels, with 1.4 gain, the only outcome will be to "reduce" contrast...not even "maintain' existing contrast performance. The "Silver" can / could help...but the main emphasis of that screen is the pearlescent finish and the gain such provides. Had they made the Screen significantly darker via the addition of more silver and/or a "Gray-ing" additive, the claim of "Increased Contrast' could have been made...and even perhaps validated.
> 
> 
> All things considered, the listed price on the Link is a good one for a Fixed Screen of any quality...and the example shown seems to fit that description. Sales hype notwithstanding. But be prepared to adjust your PJ placement and calibrated values to get anything close to ideally suited image quality.



Thank you very much for the reply.

I have ordered from this supplier in the past, and I know their build quality already (pretty good).

The reason I want advice, is because I'm not familiar with how this projector would perform with 1.4 Gain value, and more importantly, I have zero experince with "Silver" screens. I know what to expect from white ones (bright, but contrast suffers), and grey (good contrast, but not a bright).

I am planning on calling the supplier for advice (apparently they have been pretty helpful to buyers who ask for advice on projector/screen combinations).


Aside from Marketing hype, I see they claim: "Better color representation than the Elara White material, along with better contrast than the Elara Gray material means no performance compromise or tradeoffs".

Here they are comparing the performance to their own Elara lines of white and grey screens (the base models, not the "Reference" line), which is what caught my attention in the first place.

What do you think of that claim?


----------



## Electron Mike

I have a dedicated theater room that is 16'x14.5' with 12' ceilings. I am thinking of a 120" screen mounted 3' up off the floor, which would put the top of the screen at about 8' on the wall.


My main question - how much do I need to drop the projector from the ceiling? Does the 8350 have enough lens shift to flush mount it on the 12' ceiling? The PJ will be about 14' away from the screen wall.


I plan on trying it on the bare wall before buying a screen, but some help on the projector mount I need is appreciated!


Thanks!


----------



## Robert2011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Electron Mike* /forum/post/20147669
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated theater room that is 16'x14.5' with 12' ceilings. I am thinking of a 120" screen mounted 3' up off the floor, which would put the top of the screen at about 8' on the wall.
> 
> 
> My main question - how much do I need to drop the projector from the ceiling? Does the 8350 have enough lens shift to flush mount it on the 12' ceiling? The PJ will be about 14' away from the screen wall.
> 
> 
> I plan on trying it on the bare wall before buying a screen, but some help on the projector mount I need is appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The 8350 has a vertical lens shift of 96.3 percent. So it will slide up or down 96.3 percent of the height of your screen. Suspending the projector upside down will let you take full advantage of the ability to compensate vertically if mounting above the top of the screen. A 120" 16:9 diagonal screen will be 59" in height, so figure nearly that amount of shift.


----------



## hordeall

about to pull the trigger on the 8350...


I need help deciding on mount and screen color.


Its for a finished basement which would be mainly used for movie watching and watching tv usually without much light (can be bairly any if not zero if wanted).


The ceilings are 10 feet high and white.

Walls Beige.

Throw is 14 feet if wall mounted.

Throw 12 feet at best if ceiling mounted (due to lower ceiling beyond that for conceiled duct which I dont think could be mounted to)


I wanted to keep the budget down on the screen.

I can get a Elite Ezframe White 1.1 gain 100" screen for around $250 and wondered if I should go with this or get a grey colored/different brand screen if this isnt that great of a choice.


Also, would it be best to wall mount or ceiling mount the projector in my situation?


And if ceiling mount is the best option what is a good cost efficient ceiling mount for this projector?


----------



## shadowlight

First time projector user and would like to get some guidance on projector placement option. My room will be 30' long, 12' 6" wide and ~ 6' 10" tall. Thinking about doing 135" diagonal 2.35 screen using Seymour AV AT DIY screen and masking for 16:9 material. Have couple of questions:


1) Should I place the projector from the screen for 2.35 material which comes out to be around 19' from screen (projectorcentral calculator) or mount it for 16:9 screen and zoom out? Not sure which is better zoom in or out from PQ perspective.


2) is 11fL good for a room with one small window (1' x 2') which will be covered to minimize light or should I get a smaller screen.


TIA


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hordeall* /forum/post/20147862
> 
> 
> about to pull the trigger on the 8350...
> 
> 
> I need help deciding on mount and screen color.
> 
> 
> Its for a finished basement which would be mainly used for movie watching and watching tv usually without much light (can be bairly any if not zero if wanted).
> 
> 
> The ceilings are 10 feet high and white.
> 
> Walls Beige.
> 
> Throw is 14 feet if wall mounted.
> 
> Throw 12 feet at best if ceiling mounted (due to lower ceiling beyond that for conceiled duct which I dont think could be mounted to)
> 
> 
> I wanted to keep the budget down on the screen.
> 
> I can get a Elite Ezframe White 1.1 gain 100" screen for around $250 and wondered if I should go with this or get a grey colored/different brand screen if this isnt that great of a choice.
> 
> 
> Also, would it be best to wall mount or ceiling mount the projector in my situation?
> 
> 
> And if ceiling mount is the best option what is a good cost efficient ceiling mount for this projector?



I would personally wall mount from that distance. I continue to encourage people who are sitting 12' or more away to go at least 120" on the screen. If you have reasonable light control, I would go with a 1.0 gain white screen, and I would consider the less expensive Elite Sableframe series in that case. Sableframe uses the same screen material as the ezframe, but it is only available in 1.0 gain white. The frame has a different profile, but is sturdy and about $100 cheaper in 120".


You might also consider the jamestown screen which is currently getting good reviews from members.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shadowlight* /forum/post/20148097
> 
> 
> First time projector user and would like to get some guidance on projector placement option. My room will be 30' long, 12' 6" wide and ~ 6' 10" tall. Thinking about doing 135" diagonal 2.35 screen using Seymour AV AT DIY screen and masking for 16:9 material. Have couple of questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Should I place the projector from the screen for 2.35 material which comes out to be around 19' from screen (projectorcentral calculator) or mount it for 16:9 screen and zoom out? Not sure which is better zoom in or out from PQ perspective.
> 
> 
> 2) is 11fL good for a room with one small window (1' x 2') which will be covered to minimize light or should I get a smaller screen.
> 
> 
> TIA



If you get a 2.35 screen, make sure that your projector has a way to accomodate 2.35 material. Some projectors have power zoom. Some have special 2.35 modes. The Epson 8350 has neither and is a poor choice for a 2.35:1 screen.


----------



## shadowlight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayn_j* /forum/post/20148231
> 
> 
> If you get a 2.35 screen, make sure that your projector has a way to accomodate 2.35 material. Some projectors have power zoom. Some have special 2.35 modes. The Epson 8350 has neither and is a poor choice for a 2.35:1 screen.



Crap, I though all projectors have that options







. Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## Electron Mike

Thanks for the information - so if the PJ is flush mounted at 12' high on the ceiling (inverted), where is the top of the projected image without the lens shift? I am assuming it is shifted down from the lens height even without using the lens shift?


Thanks!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robert2011* /forum/post/20147785
> 
> 
> The 8350 has a vertical lens shift of 96.3 percent. So it will slide up or down 96.3 percent of the height of your screen. Suspending the projector upside down will let you take full advantage of the ability to compensate vertically if mounting above the top of the screen. A 120" 16:9 diagonal screen will be 59" in height, so figure nearly that amount of shift.


----------



## pacemaker

hi guys


i have had a lot of trouble trying to get a non-faulty unit!

the latest has the following convergence issue. can you have a look and tell me if you think its acceptable or warrants yet another return. thanks

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSCN1446.jpg 


Epson have offered to send an engineer


----------



## Robert2011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Electron Mike* /forum/post/20148612
> 
> 
> Thanks for the information - so if the PJ is flush mounted at 12' high on the ceiling (inverted), where is the top of the projected image without the lens shift? I am assuming it is shifted down from the lens height even without using the lens shift?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Here's a really helpful link that will fully demonstrate the 8350's capability for a given room size.

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 


Yes, inverted, the projector displays from lens level down. (If that makes sense) I'm not sure the 8350 has a additional built in offset. At least I can't find anything mentioning it, and I'm guessing that's because it has lens shift as a feature. At any rate, this link will help you determine the best placement for your situation. When selecting a projector, make sure you select the "Home" tab and not the "Business" tab. Good luck!


----------



## thebigeast44

I'll be buying an 8350 soon to replace a Panny AX200 which has a burned blue polarizer and a 2nd lamp which is near it's end.


There are a number of fine retailers including AV Science that offer the model. Based on the number of problems people report in this thread (I realize there are probably far more people happy with the unit than not), I'm wondering what the deciding factor has been for people in deciding where to purchase the unit.


For me, it is the return policy of the merchant. Most will not allow returns after 4 hours and/or after 14-15 days. I would prefer a 30 days no questions asked return policy. Amazon offers such a policy - do any other merchants?


Thanks in advance for any and all replies.


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44* /forum/post/20149419
> 
> 
> I'll be buying an 8350 soon to replace a Panny AX200 which has a burned blue polarizer and a 2nd lamp which is near it's end.
> 
> 
> There are a number of fine retailers including AV Science that offer the model. Based on the number of problems people report in this thread (I realize there are probably far more people happy with the unit than not), I'm wondering what the deciding factor has been for people in deciding where to purchase the unit.
> 
> 
> For me, it is the return policy of the merchant. Most will not allow returns after 4 hours and/or after 14-15 days. I would prefer a 30 days no questions asked return policy. Amazon offers such a policy - do any other merchants?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any and all replies.



crutchfield


----------



## Electron Mike

That link was great, thanks for the help!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robert2011* /forum/post/20148830
> 
> 
> Here's a really helpful link that will fully demonstrate the 8350's capability for a given room size.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, inverted, the projector displays from lens level down. (If that makes sense) I'm not sure the 8350 has a additional built in offset. At least I can't find anything mentioning it, and I'm guessing that's because it has lens shift as a feature. At any rate, this link will help you determine the best placement for your situation. When selecting a projector, make sure you select the "Home" tab and not the "Business" tab. Good luck!


----------



## gadget-zilla

yep, another +1 for crutchfields.

I was about to order one tonight but they are out of stock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/20149595
> 
> 
> crutchfield


----------



## mikeveli20

For those that have this projector, how well does it handle 1080/24p footage? Any negative side effects? Any noticeable differences between this and a projector that displays 1080/24p? Thanks.


Michael


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20148642
> 
> 
> hi guys
> 
> 
> i have had a lot of trouble trying to get a non-faulty unit!
> 
> the latest has the following convergence issue. can you have a look and tell me if you think its acceptable or warrants yet another return. thanks
> 
> http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSCN1446.jpg
> 
> 
> Epson have offered to send an engineer



Well, I have asked Epson for a replacement as well since the convergence on mine irritates mel. Mine isn't as bad as yours. I am surprised people even put up with convergence issues at all. If I spent 1100 bucks on a LCD or Plasma TV that did this, it would be brought back instantly and never considered again. I will say that there was no fight in getting another sent. I got my doubts it'll be a NEW PJ though. If anyone is in a rush to get a replacement from Epson, I do not recommend doing it through email as it took my request near 2 weeks to complete.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikeveli20* /forum/post/20151080
> 
> 
> For those that have this projector, how well does it handle 1080/24p footage? Any negative side effects? Any noticeable differences between this and a projector that displays 1080/24p? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Michael



I use 1080p/24fps output from my blu-ray player to the projector.

Works with it very well using it's 2:2 pulldown.


*If the content on disc is not 24fps, the player may output 60fps but the projector will auto detect the signal and adjust.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20151779
> 
> 
> Well, I have asked Epson for a replacement as well since the convergence on mine irritates mel. Mine isn't as bad as yours. I am surprised people even put up with convergence issues at all. If I spent 1100 bucks on a LCD or Plasma TV that did this, it would be brought back instantly and never considered again. I will say that there was no fight in getting another sent. I got my doubts it'll be a NEW PJ though. If anyone is in a rush to get a replacement from Epson, I do not recommend doing it through email as it took my request near 2 weeks to complete.



With LCD projectors, you probably can not get perfect convergence.

Those who have claimed they have perfect convergence have yet posted a close up picture of their perfection.

I assume when someone here asks for proof, they find out that their convergence is not as perfect as they first thought.


If you can not deal with any degree of convergence, you need to move to a DLP projector.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20151923
> 
> 
> With LCD projectors, you probably can not get perfect convergence.
> 
> Those who have claimed they have perfect convergence have yet posted a close up picture of their perfection.
> 
> I assume when someone here asks for proof, they find out that their convergence is not as perfect as they first thought.
> 
> 
> If you can not deal with any degree of convergence, you need to move to a DLP projector.



My DLP died, I jumped to the 8350 based on recommendations here from others moving from the 4805 to the 8350. I do not hate my decision, but I am not content with it either. It's bloody bright which is great, but the typical motion issues, convergence and so so blacks do not impress me yet. I thought I'd at least try another PJ to see it remedies some issues. I did try to return the 8350 to Epson but long story short, I was 8 days past 30 on my return period. That's what happens with life/ a job get in the way. There are times where the PJ really impresses me, some movies really pop, but any dark movie simply does not impress me..which is typical for my eyes + any LCD.


At the end of the day, i did only pay $1180 Canadian for it.


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shadowlight* /forum/post/20148304
> 
> 
> Crap, I though all projectors have that options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks for pointing that out.



To everybody considering using this projector with a 2.35 screen: I toiled with this question for a long time, and finally resolved to go for it. I couldn't be happier. Using this projector with a 2.35 screen is absolutely amazing. There are a few prerequisites that ae critical to your happiness level if going for 2.35. I feel the need to list them.


1 ) Be sure that your projector is easily accessed. You will need to make manual zoom and lens shift adjustments...so if your projector is too high, or too far back..it will be a pain to adjust. Mine is just within arms reach above my couch, so it's quite simple to make the necessary changes.


2 ) Understand that when you are viewing 2.35 material, you are not using the entire 1080P resolution. You are essentially only zooming up the image, so as to push the black letterbox bars on the top and bottom of the image off screen. Depending on your settings, the bars will be barely visible. It is recommended to use a flat black background for behind your screen. I went with a pumpkin color, and it's not all that bad...but I couldn't get flat black approved by wifey.


3 ) If you watch a lot of television in HD 16:9 format, like I do, you will want to construct some sort of masking for the left and right sides of the screen when viewing this material. The reason for this is that you want the projected 16:9 image to pop off the screen. By making sure the image butts up against these masks you will see a better picture, more pop, and better blacks.


4 ) Understand that in many cases, dvd top menus, usually are in 16:9 format. Even if the movie itself is in 2.35. What this means is that if you decide mid-movie to goto the menu, the top and bottom of the menu will be off screen. Kinda annoying, but not a deal breaker.


5 ) The look on your guests faces when you fully fill a 2.35 screen after watching standard 16:9 material, will make it all worth while. AWE!!


I couldn't be happier with 2.35 set up. I highly recommend it if you can swallow the above listed considerations!!


----------



## mikeveli20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20151907
> 
> 
> I use 1080p/24fps output from my blu-ray player to the projector.
> 
> Works with it very well using it's 2:2 pulldown.
> 
> 
> *If the content on disc is not 24fps, the player may output 60fps but the projector will auto detect the signal and adjust.




Thanks for the reply. I will be using 1080p/24fps output from my blu-player also (PS3) so glad to there are no noticeable issues. So does the projector just play the image back at 48fps? I haven't seen this number listed on any spec sheets. I've only seen the 1080p/60p listed which led me to believe that 2:3 pulldown would be applied to my blu-ray movies.


My other source of content would be TV which is 30fps so it sound like the 60FPS mode would just apply a 2:2: pulldown to this as well?


Michael


----------



## Natedog07v

Got mine fired up last night and plugged it into my FiOS cable box and once i set the zoom and focus, my jaw just dropped to the floor... im projecting about 95" from 11' and am absolutely amazed at the out of the box performance. Dynamic was really bright but with the lights really low and the PJ set to Natural, i was absolutely stunned simply projecting on to my white wall. Watched the golf channel's coverage of the Tavistock Cup and watched some HBO, Sports Center etc. and cannot be more happy with this purchase. I def still have some calibrating to do per Art's recommendations for a few of the modes, but overall, i'm absolutely blown away


----------



## zyad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20152272
> 
> 
> To everybody considering using this projector with a 2.35 screen: I toiled with this question for a long time, and finally resolved to go for it. I couldn't be happier. Using this projector with a 2.35 screen is absolutely amazing. There are a few prerequisites that ae critical to your happiness level if going for 2.35. I feel the need to list them.
> 
> 
> 1 ) Be sure that your projector is easily accessed. You will need to make manual zoom and lens shift adjustments...so if your projector is too high, or too far back..it will be a pain to adjust. Mine is just within arms reach above my couch, so it's quite simple to make the necessary changes.
> 
> 
> 2 ) Understand that when you are viewing 2.35 material, you are not using the entire 1080P resolution. You are essentially only zooming up the image, so as to push the black letterbox bars on the top and bottom of the image off screen. Depending on your settings, the bars will be barely visible. It is recommended to use a flat black background for behind your screen. I went with a pumpkin color, and it's not all that bad...but I couldn't get flat black approved by wifey.
> 
> 
> 3 ) If you watch a lot of television in HD 16:9 format, like I do, you will want to construct some sort of masking for the left and right sides of the screen when viewing this material. The reason for this is that you want the projected 16:9 image to pop off the screen. By making sure the image butts up against these masks you will see a better picture, more pop, and better blacks.
> 
> 
> 4 ) Understand that in many cases, dvd top menus, usually are in 16:9 format. Even if the movie itself is in 2.35. What this means is that if you decide mid-movie to goto the menu, the top and bottom of the menu will be off screen. Kinda annoying, but not a deal breaker.
> 
> 
> 5 ) The look on your guests faces when you fully fill a 2.35 screen after watching standard 16:9 material, will make it all worth while. AWE!!
> 
> 
> I couldn't be happier with 2.35 set up. I highly recommend it if you can swallow the above listed considerations!!



Some good tips. For 16:9 content, dark velvety curtains are a good tool, they can be closed in to block the white sidebars.


I considered 2.35:1 ratio for my theatre and almost pulled the trigger, but ultimately decided against it: My limiting dimension is the screen width (I can fit a 120" diagonal screen), and going with a 2.35:1 ratio would not have gained me any height for the same width, and would only have reduced the width of my 16:9 content.

I have only just finished drywalling, so the project is nowhere near complete.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikeveli20* /forum/post/20152453
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I will be using 1080p/24fps output from my blu-player also (PS3) so glad to there are no noticeable issues. So does the projector just play the image back at 48fps?
> 
> 
> My other source of content would be TV which is 30fps so it sound like the 60FPS mode would just apply a 2:2: pulldown to this as well?
> 
> 
> Michael



Not sure about what it will do with TV but yes on the 48fps on 24fps content wiht 2:2 pulldown, which is enabled by default.


----------



## Coolme

It's not easy reading threads about this projector and knowing if it's good or not. I'm buying either the 8350 or a used JVC RS1 and don't know which one is for me. Has anyone compared those two? Some say the Epson is flat some say it pops, blacks are good or blacks are the worse







... what to think. I saw the 8350 in action in a poor environment so it was hard to tell. What do you think here?


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coolme* /forum/post/20154302
> 
> 
> It's not easy reading threads about this projector and knowing if it's good or not. I'm buying either the 8350 or a used JVC RS1 and don't know which one is for me. Has anyone compared those two? Some say the Epson is flat some say it pops, blacks are good or blacks are the worse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... what to think. I saw the 8350 in action in a poor environment so it was hard to tell. What do you think here?



Having seen both..not a fair comparison. Even though the RS1 is an older unit ..it still has the better image bar-none.

Unless you need the brightness of the Epson..the RS1 will throw a better image. If you like the bright LCD look of flat panel TVs..then you'll love the Epson.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20152272
> 
> 
> 2 ) Understand that when you are viewing 2.35 material, you are not using the entire 1080P resolution. You are essentially only zooming up the image, so as to push the black letterbox bars on the top and bottom of the image off screen. Depending on your settings, the bars will be barely visible. It is recommended to use a flat black background for behind your screen. I went with a pumpkin color, and it's not all that bad...but I couldn't get flat black approved by wifey.



So the black bars are still visible? then whats the point... you can do 2.35 screen with every other projector non supporting anamorphic lens.


----------



## poblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44* /forum/post/20149419
> 
> 
> I'll be buying an 8350 soon to replace a Panny AX200 which has a burned blue polarizer and a 2nd lamp which is near it's end.
> 
> 
> There are a number of fine retailers including AV Science that offer the model. Based on the number of problems people report in this thread (I realize there are probably far more people happy with the unit than not), I'm wondering what the deciding factor has been for people in deciding where to purchase the unit.
> 
> 
> For me, it is the return policy of the merchant. Most will not allow returns after 4 hours and/or after 14-15 days. I would prefer a 30 days no questions asked return policy. Amazon offers such a policy - do any other merchants?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any and all replies.



I just purchased my 8350 from Amazon. They had the lowest price and I got free shipping. Plus, the price went down by $30 and I called and got that credited to me.


----------



## Natedog07v

Couple question after my first few days of ownership... does the auto iris make a tiny bit of noise while it's running on all the units? I've found that mine sounds like a harddrive churning when i put auto iris to normal or high speed... when the sounds up i obviously never hear it, but i noticed it when it's quiet or if i mute the sound it is slightly noticeable...

Also, what modes do you guys usually use the auto iris in and also what modes do you use the epson super white? Thanks!


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20152022
> 
> 
> My DLP died, I jumped to the 8350 based on recommendations here from others moving from the 4805 to the 8350. I do not hate my decision, but I am not content with it either. It's bloody bright which is great, but the typical motion issues, convergence and so so blacks do not impress me yet. I thought I'd at least try another PJ to see it remedies some issues. I did try to return the 8350 to Epson but long story short, I was 8 days past 30 on my return period. That's what happens with life/ a job get in the way. There are times where the PJ really impresses me, some movies really pop, but any dark movie simply does not impress me..which is typical for my eyes + any LCD.



Shadow detail can be particularly difficult to calibrate for on LCD projectors. You need to get brightness, contrast, gamma, color balances, and the IRIS all set correctly. Any and all of these can and often do ruin shadow detail.


Although obviously you know my feelings on LCD vs. DLP are right there with you, you can still make numerous improvements by spending a lot of time calbirating.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20154352
> 
> 
> Having seen both..not a fair comparison. Even though the RS1 is an older unit ..it still has the better image bar-none.
> 
> Unless you need the brightness of the Epson..the RS1 will throw a better image. If you like the bright LCD look of flat panel TVs..then you'll love the Epson.



On average true, but MOST RS1's have some fairly serious convergence issues even worse than today's LCD's. If you get an Epson 8350 with very good convergence, I'll take the Epson because of the other issues. Maybe for pure movie watching the RS1 beats it because of contrast, but if you get the better convergence, Epson will look better on brighter scenes IMHO. The Epson is probably a couple steps ahead of the RS1 in motion too, but DLP being even a few more steps ahead of both.


I'm particularly picky about sharpness and motion though.


----------



## Coolme




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20157017
> 
> 
> On average true, but MOST RS1's have some fairly serious convergence issues even worse than today's LCD's. If you get an Epson 8350 with very good convergence, I'll take the Epson because of the other issues. Maybe for pure movie watching the RS1 beats it because of contrast, but if you get the better convergence, Epson will look better on brighter scenes IMHO. The Epson is probably a couple steps ahead of the RS1 in motion too, but DLP being even a few more steps ahead of both.
> 
> 
> I'm particularly picky about sharpness and motion though.



I decided to go DLP in the end and got a good deal on a Benq.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natedog07v* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Couple question after my first few days of ownership... does the auto iris make a tiny bit of noise while it's running on all the units? I've found that mine sounds like a harddrive churning when i put auto iris to normal or high speed... when the sounds up i obviously never hear it, but i noticed it when it's quiet or if i mute the sound it is slightly noticeable...
> 
> Also, what modes do you guys usually use the auto iris in and also what modes do you use the epson super white? Thanks!



Yeah, a hard drive sound is a great way of describing it. I love this projector, but I have to say, IMO, the iris is complete crap. Even on high speed, the women in my family ask me why the brightness keeps going up and down. The reaction time is so slow it's distracting. I find myself noticing the delay instead of enjoying the picture quality. After 100 hours with the iris on, I have turned it off and probably won't go back.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20157333
> 
> 
> Yeah, a hard drive sound is a great way of describing it. I love this projector, but I have to say, IMO, the iris is complete crap. Even on high speed, the women in my family ask me why the brightness keeps going up and down. The reaction time is so slow it's distracting. I find myself noticing the delay instead of enjoying the picture quality. After 100 hours with the iris on, I have turned it off and probably won't go back.



Tighten the range of the IRIS by altering your settings, ensure the PJ is calibrated for contrat/brightness with Spears & Muncil and/or eye-one colorimeter device.


----------



## Natedog07v




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20157367
> 
> 
> Tighten the range of the IRIS by altering your settings, ensure the PJ is calibrated for contrat/brightness with Spears & Muncil and/or eye-one colorimeter device.



I'm using out of the box Cinema mode with the Iris on and the PJ is on a table in front of the couch for right now projecting 95" from 11' (lens to wall) and i can definitely hear the Iris running during quiet scenes... is this to be expected or should it be quiet even with the iris on?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natedog07v* /forum/post/20157462
> 
> 
> I'm using out of the box Cinema mode with the Iris on and the PJ is on a table in front of the couch for right now projecting 95" from 11' (lens to wall) and i can definitely hear the Iris running during quiet scenes... is this to be expected or should it be quiet even with the iris on?



You can always build a hush box. Someone on these forums may even be able to build you one if you pay them for materials and time (just find someone good).

Sometimes it's bearing related and it might get quieter (or noisier) over time.


Sounds like the noise isn't severe and is about what is to generally be expected, but with the Epsons, the consensus seems to be the amount of noise the IRIS produces is somewhat random from unit-to-unit. However, with an Epson I think you can tighten the range by changing the manual IRIS and lamp settings on it and reduce the amount for the IRIS moves (I may be mixed up because I only briefly owned 2 8500ub's, and I didn't have that much time to mess with the IRIS, one unit I had did have an IRIS that was 20% louder than the other).


I would more importantly check your convergence, if your unit has good convergence, consider it a keeper.


I only briefly owned the 8500ub, don't have the 8350. I returned both of my 8500ub's due to convergence.


----------



## Natedog07v




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20157555
> 
> 
> You can always build a hush box. Someone on these forums may even be able to build you one if you pay them for materials and time (just find someone good).
> 
> Sometimes it's bearing related and it might get quieter (or noisier) over time.
> 
> 
> Sounds like the noise isn't severe and is about what is to generally be expected, but with the Epsons, the consensus seems to be the amount of noise the IRIS produces is somewhat random from unit-to-unit. However, with an Epson I think you can tighten the range by changing the manual IRIS and lamp settings on it and reduce the amount for the IRIS moves (I may be mixed up because I only briefly owned 2 8500ub's, and I didn't have that much time to mess with the IRIS, one unit I had did have an IRIS that was 20% louder than the other).
> 
> 
> I would more importantly check your convergence, if your unit has good convergence, consider it a keeper.
> 
> 
> I only briefly owned the 8500ub, don't have the 8350. I returned both of my 8500ub's due to convergence.



Thanks for the info, i have a feeling once i ceiling mount it in the new place, it may become a non issue, but i'll look closer at the convergence tonight. As for the Epson Super White, when do most people use it and in what color modes? Thx!


----------



## thebigeast44

poblack - please post your experience with Amazon once you receive the unit - packed well - good unit etc - I'd appreciate it very much - Thanks!


----------



## gsmollin

I have a HT with a Panasonic DMP-BD35 BD player connected to a Monoprice HDX-501 HDMI 1.3b switch. The switch is connected to a Yamaha RX-V661 AVR (HDMI 1.2a). The AVR is connected to the Epson 8350 through 30 feet of 22 gauge HDMI cable. The setup plays without problem until I try to switch it to 24p 2:2 pulldown. When I go into the DMP-BD35's setup menu "TV/Device Connection > HDMI connection", the "24p" setting is grayed-out, and I can't select it. The instruction manual tells me to select this "When playing DVD-Video", but I can't get into "setup menu" when the unit is playing.


Over on the PJ side, the menu "Signal > 2-2 Pull-down" is also grayed out.


Has anyone had good luck with this setup?


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/20155312
> 
> 
> So the black bars are still visible? then whats the point... you can do 2.35 screen with every other projector non supporting anamorphic lens.



Vao, well you need lens shift, but your point is well taken. The panny 4000 is the same way. Any projector in this realm can't do what you want without anamorphic lens, and/or some sort of video processor.


----------



## dfrankdfrank

I'm nearing the point of pulling the trigger on a projector and I'd love some input from those who own an 8350.


Since I hate reading posts which don't address all of the different variables, let me allow me some specifics on the room and setup, just in case. I plan on placing the projector in my living room. Despite a black-out curtain in that room (the windows will face the screen). I will have some, but not tons, of ambient light in the room during the day since I live in an open tri-level house where light comes in from other rooms--although none of it will directly hit the screen. At night, total darkness. 8' white ceiling. Light carpet. Screen will be on a cream wall, opposite wall is cream but with dark brown curtains that cover half of it when closed, and dark brown furniture. Dark velvet-red, wall on the right side of the screen and no wall immediately to the left of the screen (it's 130 sqft of open living room and then 3ft of cream wall below a bannister railing and open wall that separates the living room from the higher-sitting kitchen). 92" or 100" screen, either Elite 1.0 gain Cinegrey Elunevision 1.1 gain Grey. Projector will probably be ceiling mounted or placed on a high shelf. Throw will be approx 11'8". A viewing distance when directly in front of the screen will be between 10'-11'. PS3 for streaming and blu-ray/DVD. I hope that gives most of the variables.


1) I'm a huge Netflix streaming watcher. Big cinephile. Watch a lot of older movies that Netflix only streams in SD. For the most part, SD streaming has looked pretty decent on my 58" Panasonic V10 Plasma (great TV and I have very high-speed Internet). I've had trouble finding any testimonies form 8350 owners who also stream Netflix a lot. Can anyone share their experience on this? Is it decent? Or does it look like a big YouTubey Oil Painting?


2)Also how does it handle DVDs? I know it's not HD quality even when upconverted. So, the ability to handle SD material decently well is important to me. While I love the price for the 8350 (which allows me cash flow for other projects around the house). I've also been heavily considering a refurbed Epson 6500 (since it has the Reon-VX processor and better blacks) or a refurbed 8500 (since it has the Reon-VX and the Super Resolution feature) or an 8700 if I stumbled upon an extra $800. However, if the 8350 handles Streaming SD and DVDs somewhat well, maybe there's no point in considering the other projectors that have more tools to improve SD content.


2) Letterbox bars for 2.35:1 content don't don't bother me for the most part. My plasma, which has very deep blacks, shows them during darker scenes (in fact only the Kuro from 3 yrs ago comes close to nearing true black). However, in scenes with more light, the contrast truly kicks in and the black bars are near-pitch black. I find that variation acceptable. I know from several comments that the 8350 has good but not great blacks. I know dark scenes will definitely show the bars easily (even with a grey screen). Yet, are the bars still very noticeable when a scene has some decent light in it?


3) I can't find this info anywhere. How long is the power cord that comes with the 8350?


4) Does anyone have experience with this projector and the two screens that I'm interested in? If so, how is the viewing angle (I need grey to reject some of the side light my room creates, but I still want a wide viewing angle since some seating will definitely be far left of the screen. With the grey material, does the 8350 still have some punch (if your throw is similar to mine)? Any major hotspotting or noticeable surface material grain?


5) Does anyone know of a formula that can be utilized to figure how much horizontal shift shift you have when you are also using vertical shift. I will probably use both (horizontal to a greater degree). I know the percentages and have seen the diagrams. And know that one limits the other. I've just never seen a formula that shows when you have X amount of horizontal shift, you then will only have Y amount of vertical.


6) Finally, does placing the projector far to the left or right of the screen and using the horizontal shift affect the viewing angle on a low gain, non-retroreflective screen? Always wondered that. Figured I might as well add the question here.


Thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gsmollin* 
I have a HT with a Panasonic DMP-BD35 BD player connected to a Monoprice HDX-501 HDMI 1.3b switch. The switch is connected to a Yamaha RX-V661 AVR (HDMI 1.2a). The AVR is connected to the Epson 8350 through 30 feet of 22 gauge HDMI cable. The setup plays without problem until I try to switch it to 24p 2:2 pulldown. When I go into the DMP-BD35's setup menu "TV/Device Connection > HDMI connection", the "24p" setting is grayed-out, and I can't select it. The instruction manual tells me to select this "When playing DVD-Video", but I can't get into "setup menu" when the unit is playing.


Over on the PJ side, the menu "Signal > 2-2 Pull-down" is also grayed out.


Has anyone had good luck with this setup?
Bypass the switch.


----------



## viper98912

Do any of you guys use your 8350 for daily use? I'm planning on putting this in the living room against a 92" motorized screen, yet I wonder if I should put a 40" LED set behind it for "daily" viewing, and use this solely for movies and sports. I just wonder if it'll be "too much", or if daily use puts a lot of extra strain on the projector with cycling, etc.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm nearing the point of pulling the trigger on a projector and I'd love some input from those who own an 8350.
> 
> 
> Since I hate reading posts which don't address all of the different variables, let me allow me some specifics on the room and setup, just in case. I plan on placing the projector in my living room. Despite a black-out curtain in that room (the windows will face the screen). I will have some, but not tons, of ambient light in the room during the day since I live in an open tri-level house where light comes in from other rooms--although none of it will directly hit the screen. At night, total darkness. 8' white ceiling. Light carpet. Screen will be on a cream wall, opposite wall is cream but with dark brown curtains that cover half of it when closed, and dark brown furniture. Dark velvet-red, wall on the right side of the screen and no wall immediately to the left of the screen (it's 130 sqft of open living room and then 3ft of cream wall below a bannister railing and open wall that separates the living room from the higher-sitting kitchen). 92" or 100" screen, either Elite 1.0 gain Cinegrey Elunevision 1.1 gain Grey. Projector will probably be ceiling mounted or placed on a high shelf. Throw will be approx 11'8". A viewing distance when directly in front of the screen will be between 10'-11'. PS3 for streaming and blu-ray/DVD. I hope that gives most of the variables.
> 
> 
> 1) I'm a huge Netflix streaming watcher. Big cinephile. Watch a lot of older movies that Netflix only streams in SD. For the most part, SD streaming has looked pretty decent on my 58" Panasonic V10 Plasma (great TV and I have very high-speed Internet). I've had trouble finding any testimonies form 8350 owners who also stream Netflix a lot. Can anyone share their experience on this? Is it decent? Or does it look like a big YouTubey Oil Painting?
> 
> 
> 2)Also how does it handle DVDs? I know it's not HD quality even when upconverted. So, the ability to handle SD material decently well is important to me. While I love the price for the 8350 (which allows me cash flow for other projects around the house). I've also been heavily considering a refurbed Epson 6500 (since it has the Reon-VX processor and better blacks) or a refurbed 8500 (since it has the Reon-VX and the Super Resolution feature) or an 8700 if I stumbled upon an extra $800. However, if the 8350 handles Streaming SD and DVDs somewhat well, maybe there's no point in considering the other projectors that have more tools to improve SD content.
> 
> 
> 2) Letterbox bars for 2.35:1 content don't don't bother me for the most part. My plasma, which has very deep blacks, shows them during darker scenes (in fact only the Kuro from 3 yrs ago comes close to nearing true black). However, in scenes with more light, the contrast truly kicks in and the black bars are near-pitch black. I find that variation acceptable. I know from several comments that the 8350 has good but not great blacks. I know dark scenes will definitely show the bars easily (even with a grey screen). Yet, are the bars still very noticeable when a scene has some decent light in it?
> 
> 
> 3) I can't find this info anywhere. How long is the power cord that comes with the 8350?
> 
> 
> 4) Does anyone have experience with this projector and the two screens that I'm interested in? If so, how is the viewing angle (I need grey to reject some of the side light my room creates, but I still want a wide viewing angle since some seating will definitely be far left of the screen. With the grey material, does the 8350 still have some punch (if your throw is similar to mine)? Any major hotspotting or noticeable surface material grain?
> 
> 
> 5) Does anyone know of a formula that can be utilized to figure how much horizontal shift shift you have when you are also using vertical shift. I will probably use both (horizontal to a greater degree). I know the percentages and have seen the diagrams. And know that one limits the other. I've just never seen a formula that shows when you have X amount of horizontal shift, you then will only have Y amount of vertical.
> 
> 
> 6) Finally, does placing the projector far to the left or right of the screen and using the horizontal shift affect the viewing angle on a low gain, non-retroreflective screen? Always wondered that. Figured I might as well add the question here.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I use netflix streaming on an almost daily basis and the HD looks incredible, and standard definition also looks much better than expected.

For the first month I would only rent and watch blu-ray movies. Then my fiancé brought her girlfriends over the other night and watched a DVD. Before they fired it up, I gave the "this might not look as good as it should" speech. Again I was surprised at how great the video quality was. Was it noticeably different than blu-ray? Yes, but completely watchable, and still very impressing. The only thing that does suck is SD programming on my Comcast box, it makes me dizzy, and the image is disgusting!


And as for the shift, it is very helpful on this projector, but just a heads up, the more harsh the angles, the more we seem to see the negative effects of chromatic aberration from the lens. Convergence is a common problem with these projectors likely being off by 1 pixel, I've seen this intensified by harsh lens shift. I think the lens shift is great, just try not to max it out. Viewing angle isn't dramatically changed however.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do any of you guys use your 8350 for daily use? I'm planning on putting this in the living room against a 92" motorized screen, yet I wonder if I should put a 40" LED set behind it for "daily" viewing, and use this solely for movies and sports. I just wonder if it'll be "too much", or if daily use puts a lot of extra strain on the projector with cycling, etc.



I have a TV set behind a roll-up screen and I recommend this configuration. I find daily use is too casual for a projector, and I like to save it for cinema and the big game.


----------



## leaningjowler

Figured I would post my experience with Epson support and getting a replacement unit. I can't say it has gone smooth but Epson is doing what they can to get me a working unit. Most of my issues have been with Fedex at this point. Sending mine back due to convergence/dust blob.


Unit 1 - Better convergence but some weird discoloration on the right side of the screen.


Unit 2 - Left outside my house box didn't look so great opened it up took out the projector and heard some parts rolling around inside.


Unit 3 - Worked from home to get the delivery pouring rain outside. See a Uhaul truck pull up with a fedex sticker on it. Walk downstairs to meet the fedex guy and here my doorbell ring and watch him walking away. Open my door and pick up a soaking wet box. Not wet from walking from the truck to my house wet like it was sitting in water for 2 hours. Call the guy back to tell him I am not accepting the package, he is a bit puzzled about that and says "Its raining things get wet". Blows my mind how you leave a package outside in the pouring rain, at least ups puts stuff in plastic bags.


Unit 4 - Is on its way to the fedex store so I can examine it before I accept.


I still love the projector and I think it is an excellent value. Hopefully I get lucky with number 4.


----------



## kipg

Just pulled trigger on unit from Amazon. Found alittle cheaper other places, but figured after reading all the problems on here I would give it one try and if I get a lemon I will return it and take my money and go buy a 65-70 LCD and call it a day. If that happens I will have my 82" Stewart Firehawk screen available...







.


----------



## yourchef51

Nevermind


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robert2011* /forum/post/20148830
> 
> 
> Here's a really helpful link that will fully demonstrate the 8350's capability for a given room size.
> 
> http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/
> 
> 
> Yes, inverted, the projector displays from lens level down. (If that makes sense) I'm not sure the 8350 has a additional built in offset. At least I can't find anything mentioning it, and I'm guessing that's because it has lens shift as a feature. At any rate, this link will help you determine the best placement for your situation. When selecting a projector, make sure you select the "Home" tab and not the "Business" tab. Good luck!



What projector are you using on this as I do not see the 8350 listed in my pull down menu. Thanks


----------



## Natedog07v

I was playing around with the color settings last night and made revisions to the Dynamic color mode per Art's recommendation so the red and green weren't so overbearing, but then later on i flipped to Cinema mode and noticed those same settings were being used on this color mode... i was expecting those settings to stay with the specific color mode i calibrated them on but i guess that's not the case... is the way to resolve this to setup the "Memory" settings for each color mode so if you flip on Dynamic you then bring up the Dynamic settings from memory associated with that color mode? and if you flip to Cinema to watch a movie you choose the Cinema settings from memory for that color mode?


----------



## pacemaker

my experience so far with 4 units has been:


1: noisy fan

2: dust blob/dead pixel

3: convergence out by over 1 pixel

4: convergence out by over 1 pixel


been offered a 5th and under normal circumstances I would just get my money back and by another brand. trouble is there IS no alternate i can see at the price or even a bit more.

what would you do?


bear in mind i have only seen 1 DLP projector over 8 years ago and i saw rainbows a lot and got a headache so have ruled this technology out


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20165218
> 
> 
> my experience so far with 4 units has been:
> 
> 
> 1: noisy fan
> 
> 2: dust blob/dead pixel
> 
> 3: convergence out by over 1 pixel
> 
> 4: convergence out by over 1 pixel
> 
> 
> been offered a 5th and under normal circumstances I would just get my money back and by another brand. trouble is there IS no alternate i can see at the price or even a bit more.
> 
> what would you do?
> 
> 
> bear in mind i have only seen 1 DLP projector over 8 years ago and i saw rainbows a lot and got a headache so have ruled this technology out



Only a single-chip DLP has perfect convergence. I don't know how much over 1 pixel your convergence was "out", but I doubt you can see 3 pixels on cinematic content. If you need perfect convergence then you need a DLP, and preview the unit for rainbows. newer DLPs have faster color flashes than 8 years ago, so you may not be able to see it.


----------



## poblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44* /forum/post/20158330
> 
> 
> poblack - please post your experience with Amazon once you receive the unit - packed well - good unit etc - I'd appreciate it very much - Thanks!



Sorry for the late response.


My experience with Amazon was great. They shipped it fast. The did NOT double box it, meaning they didn't ship it in a seperate, bigger box. But that was cool. What was also cool was the fact that you had to sign for it. Usually UPS leaves packages outside my door without even ringing the doorbell. The factory packaging was tight.


I haven't used the unit much. Probably for a couple of hours to test my screen. So far so good.


----------



## masterren

Just wanted to post a short video of my Epson 8350 in action. It's in dynamic mode. As you can see, there's quite a bit of ambient light because of the windows to the left but it still looked quite bright.


It's Marvel vs. Capcom 3 on Xbox 360:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85H6NWuEbQ8


----------



## kbusam

8350 and 150" screen in light controlled room.....


what are the color modes or settings which gives good quality image?


I see lot of noise with when sitting at 15' away.....


is 150" doable with 8350 or should i downsize to 120 or 135"?


----------



## chicagovet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20165218
> 
> 
> my experience so far with 4 units has been:
> 
> 
> 1: noisy fan
> 
> 2: dust blob/dead pixel
> 
> 3: convergence out by over 1 pixel
> 
> 4: convergence out by over 1 pixel
> 
> 
> been offered a 5th and under normal circumstances I would just get my money back and by another brand. trouble is there IS no alternate i can see at the price or even a bit more.
> 
> what would you do?
> 
> 
> bear in mind i have only seen 1 DLP projector over 8 years ago and i saw rainbows a lot and got a headache so have ruled this technology out



Did Epson send you a brand new 8350 in exchange, instead of a refurbished one? How were they to deal with? Did they offer any advice re: the dust blobs?


I got mine from Visual Apex in December. Works beautifully, except for a baseball-size blob that showed up recently. I haven't decided what--if anything--to do about it.


Thanks.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chicagovet* /forum/post/20169440
> 
> 
> Did Epson send you a brand new 8350 in exchange, instead of a refurbished one? How were they to deal with? Did they offer any advice re: the dust blobs?
> 
> 
> I got mine from Visual Apex in December. Works beautifully, except for a baseball-size blob that showed up recently. I haven't decided what--if anything--to do about it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



my dealings have been with the retailer who sent new replacements

last one i decided to leave the retailer alone and get Epson to do a home visit hopefully with a van load of new ones and wasn't going to let him leave unless he found a good one. but due to the newness of the item(under 4 weeks) Epson gave me an RMA number and sent me back to the retailer


still undecided what if anything to do as it looks like convergence is a given with LCD unless your very very lucky


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20169576
> 
> 
> my dealings have been with the retailer who sent new replacements
> 
> last one i decided to leave the retailer alone and get Epson to do a home visit hopefully with a van load of new ones and wasn't going to let him leave unless he found a good one. but due to the newness of the item(under 4 weeks) Epson gave me an RMA number and sent me back to the retailer
> 
> 
> still undecided what if anything to do as it looks like convergence is a given with LCD unless your very very lucky



Yup, this is my first and LAST LCD. Matter of fact, if I could sell it I probably would


I got my replacement yesterday. I do have to say that the Epson tech was very easy to deal with, and the shipping was crazy fast. From the US to Newfoundland (island off of east coast of Canada) in two days....2 days. Normally 2nd air to here takes 5-7 "business" days.


But the 2nd one was loud as hell, fan was nuts. And convergence is off even more. As far as I can tell, it was a brand new unit in original box.


I think I might just say mine is good enough until something serious happens to it in which I'll go through the hassle of replacing it then, or wait till I can sell or trade it. Given the issues people have here, dealing with convergence off a little seems like the least of my worries.


I didn't notice any difference in movement and motion blur on the new unit ( my other complaint), and colors were as consistent. No matter where I placed the unit and lens shift, the convergence was just off too much. Fox example, If I placed the word "FOX" on the screen, on the edges of the screen it would actually look like FOX FOX in places it was that bad.


Pathetic, no display device should leave a factory like that. Its too bad as this PJ has a lot going for it. Nice and bright even in ECO/Cinema, my original is whisper quiet even in a room thats already dead silent. Lens shift, my original hasn't slipped yet...yet., tons of tweaking options via menu...ironically no convergence tweaking though, takes no time at all to shut down, the colors out of the box need little calibrating if at all with the exception of the typical overblown dynamic modes.


----------



## Natedog07v

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Natedog07v* 
I was playing around with the color settings last night and made revisions to the Dynamic color mode per Art's recommendation so the red and green weren't so overbearing, but then later on i flipped to Cinema mode and noticed those same settings were being used on this color mode... i was expecting those settings to stay with the specific color mode i calibrated them on but i guess that's not the case... is the way to resolve this to setup the "Memory" settings for each color mode so if you flip on Dynamic you then bring up the Dynamic settings from memory associated with that color mode? and if you flip to Cinema to watch a movie you choose the Cinema settings from memory for that color mode?
Any feedback on this ??? Thx!


----------



## Vao

How should I know if the convergence is good or bad. And how to test it?


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikeveli20* /forum/post/20151080
> 
> 
> For those that have this projector, how well does it handle 1080/24p footage? Any negative side effects? Any noticeable differences between this and a projector that displays 1080/24p? Thanks.



I can tell you this pj does 24p very well. It is noticeably more smooth, especially with 2:2 pulldown enabled. I love the feature!


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/20171324
> 
> 
> How should I know if the convergence is good or bad. And how to test it?



Turn on the grid feature from the menu.

Go right up to the screen.

You can see the individual pixels. You will likely see a red and blue line on the edges of the white lines. One pixel off is generally as good as it gets. If it is much worse than that, it is generally OK to exchange.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20170098
> 
> 
> Yup, this is my first and LAST LCD. Matter of fact, if I could sell it I probably would
> 
> 
> I got my replacement yesterday. I do have to say that the Epson tech was very easy to deal with, and the shipping was crazy fast. From the US to Newfoundland (island off of east coast of Canada) in two days....2 days. Normally 2nd air to here takes 5-7 "business" days.
> 
> 
> But the 2nd one was loud as hell, fan was nuts. And convergence is off even more. As far as I can tell, it was a brand new unit in original box.
> 
> 
> I think I might just say mine is good enough until something serious happens to it in which I'll go through the hassle of replacing it then, or wait till I can sell or trade it. Given the issues people have here, dealing with convergence off a little seems like the least of my worries.
> 
> 
> I didn't notice any difference in movement and motion blur on the new unit ( my other complaint), and colors were as consistent. No matter where I placed the unit and lens shift, the convergence was just off too much. Fox example, If I placed the word "FOX" on the screen, on the edges of the screen it would actually look like FOX FOX in places it was that bad.
> 
> 
> Pathetic, no display device should leave a factory like that. Its too bad as this PJ has a lot going for it. Nice and bright even in ECO/Cinema, my original is whisper quiet even in a room thats already dead silent. Lens shift, my original hasn't slipped yet...yet., tons of tweaking options via menu...ironically no convergence tweaking though, takes no time at all to shut down, the colors out of the box need little calibrating if at all with the exception of the typical overblown dynamic modes.



Convergence issues would be apparent across the entire screen. If you are having issues only at the edges, that would be from extreme lens shift. I thought I had slight red convergence issues until I backed off on the lens shift and I guess I am really lucky as mine is spot on now. I am sorry you are having issues, as I have to say that I love this projector.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Convergence issues would be apparent across the entire screen. If you are having issues only at the edges, that would be from extreme lens shift. I thought I had slight red convergence issues until I backed off on the lens shift and I guess I am really lucky as mine is spot on now. I am sorry you are having issues, as I have to say that I love this projector.



Nope. I did not mount the projector. I moved it around the room, adjusted lens shift all over the place trying to find a spot where it was better testing this theory that lens shift causes this issue. Close, far, up, down, left, right, put it on box, on ladder, on table, tried everywhere. Lens shift makes a little difference but not drastic with the two I have here. The worse one is almost decent dead center but top left and bottom right is horrible. I use more then the epson pattern to test it as that is not good enough IMHO. One image is a pattern of colored horizontal lines and with it on the screen the convergence seems ok. Another image is vertical lines and with this the issue is apparent throughout the screen and green is off by at least 3 pixels. With the test pattern it's a similar story with the horizontal lines looking sharp, but the vertical clearly off on green and even blue.


----------



## Robert2011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourchef51* /forum/post/20164600
> 
> 
> Nevermind
> 
> What projector are you using on this as I do not see the 8350 listed in my pull down menu. Thanks



When you click on "Select projector" the "Business" tab opens by default. Click the "Home" tab to find the 8350.


----------



## Bdex75

I finally fired mine up tonight after 3 months of sitting in my office and I was impressed. Out of the box it was better than I expected and I only briefly played with the settings. I read the projector central review and adjusted the color from 6500 to 7500, set it to natural and went from there. When I put the grid up and got really close all i saw was the white line, no blue or red outside of that. I guess my convergence is good. No dust blobs. Shooting from 12' on to my diy screen (basically a variant of MM if i read correctly).

I am very new to the projector game (2 hours and counting), but found myself watching sports center with no audio, since my avr is not hooked up yet!


----------



## Zon Ninja

I just finished setting up my new Espson 8350. I think i've configured it right, but at the top of the screen it seems like the screen wraps upwards slightly.


How do you go about fixing this? I haven't see anything in the manual about it, and I'm not sure what it's called to search for the issue on thie forum.


Thanks,


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20172184
> 
> 
> Another image is vertical lines and with this the issue is apparent throughout the screen and green is off by at least 3 pixels. With the test pattern it's a similar story with the horizontal lines looking sharp, but the vertical clearly off on green and even blue.



On Sanyo projectors, panel alignment could be altered in 2 pixel steps in the service menu, since Epson makes panels for most other companies, you may want to see if this is possible in the Epson service menu (maybe someone here knows). For many people, this adjustment won't help convergence anyways since it was a 2-step setting.


My now returned Epson 8500ub was off by about 3 pixels as well.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zon Ninja* /forum/post/20173321
> 
> 
> I just finished setting up my new Espson 8350. I think i've configured it right, but at the top of the screen it seems like the screen wraps upwards slightly.
> 
> 
> How do you go about fixing this? I haven't see anything in the manual about it, and I'm not sure what it's called to search for the issue on thie forum.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



You don't have the projector lined up to the screen correctly, it needs to be exactly 90 degrees (regardless if it is centered to the screen or not).


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20173091
> 
> 
> When I put the grid up and got really close all i saw was the white line, no blue or red outside of that. I guess my convergence is good. No dust blobs. Shooting from 12' on to my diy screen (basically a variant of MM if i read correctly).
> 
> I am very new to the projector game (2 hours and counting), but found myself watching sports center with no audio, since my avr is not hooked up yet!



You are one of the lucky few that got near-perfect convergence if this is the case, that makes your image a lot better, especially for gaming or HTPC more than movies. An 8350 with perfect convergence produces a great image.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20173508
> 
> 
> On Sanyo projectors, panel alignment could be altered in 2 pixel steps in the service menu, since Epson makes panels for most other companies, you may want to see if this is possible in the Epson service menu (maybe someone here knows). For many people, this adjustment won't help convergence anyways since it was a 2-step setting.
> 
> 
> My now returned Epson 8500ub was off by about 3 pixels as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't have the projector lined up to the screen correctly, it needs to be exactly 90 degrees (regardless if it is centered to the screen or not).



as a further to this yes 90 degrees to the screen but angled up slightly too


----------



## fferreres




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20165218
> 
> 
> been offered a 5th and under normal circumstances I would just get my money back and by another brand. trouble is there IS no alternate i can see at the price or even a bit more.
> 
> what would you do?



A day or two ago there where some Sony VW-60 refurb at around $890 left, but not listed. If you are using it in a light controled environment, and a creen not larger that 110" (or have a 1.3 or more gain) it will be a superb alternative (the Sony has a panel alignment feature).


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fferreres* /forum/post/20174191
> 
> 
> A day or two ago there where some Sony VW-60 refurb at around $890 left, but not listed. If you are using it in a light controled environment, and a creen not larger that 110" (or have a 1.3 or more gain) it will be a superb alternative (the Sony has a panel alignment feature).



I just bought the vw70, lol. After all my negative comments on its brightness, it was just too good to pass up. Whether or not I can live with the low brightness, I'll know after I get it.

Figure worst case I can probably resell it for a minimal loss if it doesn't do it for me.


----------



## Mr.Bigglesworth.

Hey folks,

About to pick up my 8350 on Tuesday. This will be my first projector- I am brand spankin' new to these things...so please excuse the potentially silly questions to follow.


I'm in the process of trying to pick a screen size. I've been hoping for either 106 or 110", but I'm wondering if it's going to work with the somewhat short(?) throw of my TV room..

The wall-to-wall distance is just a shade under 13' and the projector will be shelf mounted, so I'm guessing that will make the throw roughly 11' 6". Seating distance of about the same. If it matters- the ceiling is 8', and the width of the room 15'. Ambient light in the room is what I would call fairly minimal.


So I guess my first question is- at 11-12 feet is a 106-110" screen (generally speaking) a decent size? Would you go smaller? The calculator on projectorcentral seems to be recommending 86" and that has me a little worried.


I plan to get the projector in place and play around with the sizing a little bit before buying the screen, but I'm curious on what the 'averages' are for this sort of thing..


Second question...does anyone have any input on Accuscreen, as a brand? I'm, at this point, leaning toward the 106" Fixed Screen (800019).


----------



## coderguy

Either 106" or 110" would be the perfect size for this seating distance, IMHO.

It will take getting used to that size this being your first PJ, but give it a 3 days or so and your eyes will learn that you don't need to "see everything" all at once like you do on smaller screens.


----------



## fitbrit

Last night all 3 of my guests and I were within 10 ft of a 120" screen and we all loved it without any viewing issues. At that distance, however, 1080p material is a recommended, and 720p is the bare minimum.

The back row is about 15ft and is also just fine.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20159415
> 
> 
> Vao, well you need lens shift, but your point is well taken. The panny 4000 is the same way. Any projector in this realm can't do what you want without anamorphic lens, and/or some sort of video processor.



So lets say if we use living or dynamic mode the black bars will be barely visible but if we use cinema mode vuala no black bars and here it is 2:35 setup


right?


----------



## coderguy

I personally find 720p is minimum for any screen above 60", but an upconverted DVD can be ok on larger screens SOMETIMES.


----------



## viper98912

Trying to learn here a little bit,


So in the specs, it says it has an anamorphic lens (capability?). Does this mean that when you're watching a bluray that was kept in 2.35:1 size, you can place it on an anamorphic mode, and it will zoom and crop the picture to fill a 16:9 size?


----------



## donyboy

I read almost an entire thread and still can't find a perfect fit.


I have a loft 24x16, with a screen coming in front of 55" TV. My thoughts: TV will be used for watching sports, projector for watching movies. I have tons of movies on DVDs in Standard Definition as well as some Blu-Rays. So what I want from my projector is biggest size of the picture I can get while it is bright and SD should look good (I will use upconverting player). My couch can be placed anywhere between 15' and 21' feet away.


Movies will be viewed in the evening and windows will be closed by non-light leaking drapes.


What do you fellow 8350 owners think?


100"? 106"? 110"? 120"? 125"? 135"? 150"?


I am trying to stay within $300-$500 range for a screen, and some screens are available at that range (FAVI and Elite electric screens).


Will appreciate an advice!

Thanks!


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are one of the lucky few that got near-perfect convergence if this is the case, that makes your image a lot better, especially for gaming or HTPC more than movies. An 8350 with perfect convergence produces a great image.



The pattern that everyone is talking about is the screen that you get when you hit the "pattern" button on the remote, correct? It is a blue screen with a vertical and horizontal line that intersect a circle in the middle. If so all I see is white lines. I am using no horizontal shift and very, very little vertical shift. My pj is sitting in a box that is framed in to the ceiling dead centered on the screen and center of lens is about 8" off of the finished ceiling height.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *donyboy* 
I read almost an entire thread and still can't find a perfect fit.


I have a loft 24x16, with a screen coming in front of 55" TV. My thoughts: TV will be used for watching sports, projector for watching movies. I have tons of movies on DVDs in Standard Definition as well as some Blu-Rays. So what I want from my projector is biggest size of the picture I can get


What do you fellow 8350 owners think?


100"? 106"? 110"? 120"? 125"? 135"? 150"?


I am trying to stay within $300-$500 range for a screen, and some screens are available at that range (FAVI and Elite electric screens).


Will appreciate an advice!

Thanks!
135" is very do-able if you maintain as close in a throw distance as possible...within 15-20% of the minimum throw required for a 135"er.


That would be at 15' to achieve 14 fls with a 1.0 gain screen. If you select a screen with up to 1.2 gain, you can up the Fls to 16 fl.


Either level is more than acceptable for controlled light viewing.


Up converted SD DVD Content will look great...or at least as good as the original Transfer allows. SDTV....? Not so much so.


----------



## rat_fink

Hi all, a while back there was a recommendation to cover all the open spots and cracks of the epson (aside from the intake and exhaust of course) with painters tape in order to reduce the possibility of dust blobs leaking in from other cracks. Its been a couple months since then, just wondering if anyone has feedback on if it works?


----------



## coderguy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bdex75* 
The pattern that everyone is talking about is the screen that you get when you hit the "pattern" button on the remote, correct? It is a blue screen with a vertical and horizontal line that intersect a circle in the middle. If so all I see is white lines. I am using no horizontal shift and very, very little vertical shift. My pj is sitting in a box that is framed in to the ceiling dead centered on the screen and center of lens is about 8" off of the finished ceiling height.
You can even just look at text on a background and tell if the convergence is off, just get as close to the screen as you can (almost your nose touching).


From your description though, it sounds like you have near-perfect convergence, I wasn't being sarcastic earlier, I was literally congratulating you that you got such a good unit on your first attempt 

Better than most of us have done with the Epson.


----------



## coderguy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
135" is very do-able if you maintain as close in a throw distance as possible...within 15-20% of the minimum throw required for a 135"er.


That would be at 15' to achieve 14 fls with a 1.0 gain screen. If you select a screen with up to 1.2 gain, you can up the Fls to 16 fl.


Either level is more than acceptable for controlled light viewing.


Up converted SD DVD Content will look great...or at least as good as the original Transfer allows. SDTV....? Not so much so.
Agreed, that's pretty far back, so the bigger screen will definitely help.


I personally recommend to have a recliner that has some movement room in case you prefer to sit farther back for some things. I actually prefer a slightly smaller screen for gaming then for movie watching, I can get severe eye fatigue if gaming on a 106" from 10' back for instance, but everyone is different.


I don't game much anymore anyways though.


----------



## donyboy

Thank you so much for your advices!


I just tested it in the dark and I can swear it kicks a&& even if you stretch it to an entire wall - 200". Good bye social life.


----------



## Bdex75

I just temporarily set the couch in it's final resting place and fired up the pj at 110" and I have to say it seems like I may be sitting a bit too close (12 ft.). Actually seems as though I am sitting too low, guess it will take some getting used to. Carpet is being installed Friday and I will be done for the most part. I will post some pics soon.


----------



## pacemaker

been informed by Epson that 1 to 2 pixels out of alignment is acceptable

anyone agree?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20181842
> 
> 
> been informed by Epson that 1 to 2 pixels out of alignment is acceptable
> 
> anyone agree?



1 pixel off, not bad, about average;

2 pixels off, no absolutely not, that is too much.


1 pixel off will make some difference to sharpness, but not a huge amount for movies, depends how picky you are. 1/4 to 1/2 pixel off is optimal, but likely not very common wtih these PJ's, 1 to 1.75 off is probably average, 2 is barely bareable but not good at all IMHO as you will receive a large drop in POP and WOW, and 2+ off is garbage.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20181622
> 
> 
> I just temporarily set the couch in it's final resting place and fired up the pj at 110" and I have to say it seems like I may be sitting a bit too close (12 ft.). Actually seems as though I am sitting too low, guess it will take some getting used to. Carpet is being installed Friday and I will be done for the most part. I will post some pics soon.



Give it a few days, I had the same problem on my first PJ even with just a 92" screen at first (now I'm at 106" though from 10' or so and it's fine).

What helps is try to train your eyes to relax and not ATTEMPT to scan the entire screen all at once, don't expect to watch it like a TV, meaning with a large screen let your eyes focus on the general center area of the screen and don't let your eyes roam speedily to try to take in the entire image all at once. Also turn the brightness down and try to let your eyes relax, it takes some getting used to for some people on this big screen, others seem to adapt right away.


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20181622
> 
> 
> I just temporarily set the couch in it's final resting place and fired up the pj at 110" and I have to say it seems like I may be sitting a bit too close (12 ft.). Actually seems as though I am sitting too low, guess it will take some getting used to. Carpet is being installed Friday and I will be done for the most part. I will post some pics soon.



My projector overwhelmed me the first time I turned it on. I got over it quickly










Perhaps your couch is too low. Check eye level height when sitting and compare it to screen height. You might need to either lower the screen or raise the sofa.


Our old sofabed was way too low, and I raised it up with a couple of 4x4s. Solved it for good by buying real theater chairs (shameless plug for Roman). They sat about 3" higher than the couch on the floor and made all the difference.


----------



## tweakalot

I too am enjoying this projector even though my convergence isn't the best I've seen. There's one thing I've noticed though, looks like hot spotting but I'm not sure. White marks at the same location on light/bright scenes only. Using a 106" elite screen 1.1 gain pj mounted about 10' 11" or at the most 11ft from screen. I get the same marks on all other color modes. Could this be anything other than hot spotting? Thanks


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tweakalot* /forum/post/20183048
> 
> 
> I too am enjoying this projector even though my convergence isn't the best I've seen. There's one thing I've noticed though, looks like hot spotting but I'm not sure. White marks at the same location on light/bright scenes only. Using a 106" elite screen 1.1 gain pj mounted about 10' 11" or at the most 11ft from screen. I get the same marks on all other color modes. Could this be anything other than hot spotting? Thanks



It's the texture of the Elite screen almost for sure, I'm not a fan of the Elite screens, I previously owned one and they cause a loss in perceived sharpness because of the screwy texture that's caused from how they made the screen (not saying all ELITES have this issue as I had the cheapest model).


Moved to an HP for only a couple hundred more, and the difference in sharpness, smoother more film-like surface with no texture, brightness, and everything else improved 20 times. Compared to my old elite screen, a regular painted wall (not even HT paint) was superior to the screen, lol.


----------



## pacemaker

As a follow up to my post on Epsons policy of 1-2 pixels out being acceptable below is a close up of my misalignment

I would appreciate comments and if possible some photos of yours to compare

thanks

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...1032011384.jpg 

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/DSCN1446.jpg


----------



## coderguy

It's hard to tell in those pictures but it appears all 3 panels are off-alignment, something liek a combined 2-3 pixels if you count all 3 cololrs. Your camera appears to have added a further fringing to the image making the top pixels harder to judge.


Epson's policy is a loose policy, just tell them it appears the image is fringing and you aren't sure exactly how bad it is. If your not happy, they will RMA it.


Don't even mention how many pixels off it is, that way you won't get the argument.


Just eyeing your picture, to me it looks like the red is off about 3/4 pixel, the green a full pixel or 1 1/4 pixel, and the blue maybe 1/4 pixel.

So I estimate around 2 - 2.5 pixels off, but again, it's hard to tell from those shots.


----------



## spunkyinkc

So, are there pics of what perfect convergence looks like? I have been going back and forth about how mine is. When I look at the test pattern, it looks pretty good. But if I look at text, as the post a couple up from this one did, I think I might have issues.


Also, I have been messing with settings trying to get things just right. Some movies I think look awesome, others I find myself tweaking. I have tried some of Art's settings, and other posters, is there a method for calibrating this projector without having it professionally done?


Thanks


----------



## coderguy

Perfect convergence looks like a plain white line with no colors at all, near-perfect convergence will be nearly invisible and look almost like a plain white line, but you will see a hint of color when you look at the line VERY closely.


Both perfect and near-perfect convergence are very rare on this projector, and for that matter perfect convergence is very rare on any non-DLP or otherwise non-single chip projector.


----------



## pacemaker

Whats the best test pattern to show exactly what colours are out and by how much etc


mine a couple of posts back were just from the menu


----------



## coderguy

I also believe the Epsons have a crosshatch pattern in the pattern areas of the menu (forgot what it's called, I think their is even a button on the remote to pull up the pattern), did you try that one, not sure how good it is, never used it. Probably one from either the Spears and Munsil disk or the DVE disk, they have actual convergence patterns that show it, I've never needed this, I can just tell by looking. There are some free patterns you can get in the forums for a PC, but I don't remember where they are. I'm sure you can download some free from the Internet as well.

What you are looking for is to determine where the alignment is supposed to be, if you can tell this (sometimes it is hard to tell), then you can see how far off it is.


Just eyeing your picture, to me it looks like the red is off about 3/4 pixel to 1 pixel, the green a full pixel or 1 1/2 pixels, and the blue maybe 1/4 pixel.

So I estimate around 2 - 3 pixels off, but again, it's hard to tell from those shots.


I will say this, if it's hard to tell just how much alignment it's off, that's a sure sign it's off by too much.


----------



## jaimegmr

I just got my Epson H.C. 8350 last week and have been watching it for a few hours. I dont have a screen right now, so I am just projecting it on the wall from about 7-8 feet. I get a screen of approximately 75". I noticed some misalignment of the pixels (which I will post pictures of later) but I have to get close to the wall to notice. What does bother me is that it seems the left side is not as bright as the right side of the screen. Maybe it is because I am shifting the image to the left? I centered the image and if I remember correctly, it was also brighter on the right side. I will have to do more testing. Has anyone had uneven brightness problems like I am describing?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jaimegmr* /forum/post/20184993
> 
> 
> Has anyone had uneven brightness problems like I am describing?



Could be your wall has uneven paint coating or room reflections are messing with the image (this is often the case), try it on another part of the wall or another room. Could also be a lamp issue or PJ issue, but I wouldn't worry unless it appears excessive after trying in different rooms (and turn off lens shift and keystone when checking just to be sure, and make sure the projector is vertically and horizontally level).


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20184699
> 
> 
> I also believe the Epsons have a crosshatch pattern in the pattern areas of the menu (forgot what it's called, I think their is even a button on the remote to pull up the pattern), did you try that one, not sure how good it is, never used it. Probably one from either the Spears and Munsil disk or the DVE disk, they have actual convergence patterns that show it, I've never needed this, I can just tell by looking. There are some free patterns you can get in the forums for a PC, but I don't remember where they are. I'm sure you can download some free from the Internet as well.
> 
> What you are looking for is to determine where the alignment is supposed to be, if you can tell this (sometimes it is hard to tell), then you can see how far off it is.
> 
> 
> Just eyeing your picture, to me it looks like the red is off about 3/4 pixel to 1 pixel, the green a full pixel or 1 1/2 pixels, and the blue maybe 1/4 pixel.
> 
> So I estimate around 2 - 3 pixels off, but again, it's hard to tell from those shots.
> 
> 
> I will say this, if it's hard to tell just how much alignment it's off, that's a sure sign it's off by too much.



thanks for the advice and info

trouble is i have already returned a couple due to alignment issues and this one was supposed to have been checked prior to sending out. the retailer is rightly p155ed off as they have no control over manufacturing. Epson have said 1 pixel is acceptable 2 is pushing it. i just noticed the green on white out by 1+ but as you say the red is out too. so question is overall am i out?


----------



## jaimegmr

Here are some pictures I took that show the brightness issue and the convergence. It seems red is the only panel that is off. Note that each picture is 1-1.3MB in size.


The following pictures show the brightness issues (f/5.6, 1/30 sec, ISO-100):
Centered - Minimum Zoom 
Left Shift - Minimum Zoom 
Centered - Maximum Zoom 
Left Shift - Maximum Zoom 

Screen appears skewed due to angle I took the picture from.


On the following pictures, there appear to be red pixels near the green text, which makes no sense as the text is pure green. It might be because the image was saved as a JPG image with lossy compression. I'll have to test this with a lossless image I make myself.

Bottom Left Text 
Top Left Text 
Center Text 
Bottom Right Text 
Top Right Text 


The following pictures are horizontal and vertical RGB lines that show the red LCD panel appears is off. Note the location of the red pixels relative to the side of the screen. Red pixels are shifted to the right about 1 pixel (or slightly more) on the left side of the screen. They are shifted to the left about 1/2 pixel on the right side of the screen.


The higher up the screen you go, the better the red alignment gets (didn't take a picture of top of screen). At the very top of the screen, the red pixels are a fraction of a pixel above the green and blue (maybe 1/4-1/3), compared to a full pixel above the others at the bottom.

Vertical - Bottom Left 
Vertical - Bottom Right 
Horizontal - Bottom Left 
Horizontal - Bottom Right 


With all that said, I would like to make it clear that the pictures were taken by using special graphics specifically made for detecting convergence and brightness issues and I have not noticed the uneven brightness or convergence problems during movie-watching due to the constantly changing graphics of video. Buying a projector is like buying a new car. No matter in how perfect condition you think your new car is, you can always find something "wrong" with a perfectly good car that you will not notice unless you are specifically looking for defects. This may not be the best analogy, but I hope it gets the point across.


----------



## MississippiMan

All these seeming issues.....?


I know I'm not the only person to have received a good, "in perfect working order" 8350. In reality, the majority of adverse cases shown on here are by far the exception rather than the rule.


Over the last 5 months I've personally seen 14- 8350s go in and not a one of 'em had any of the convergence issues, color shadows, or lines spoken about by the relatively few unfortunate individuals in this Thread.


Readers should not misconstrue these other Member's efforts to relate their own problems as being within the "Status Quo" as far as expectations. Rather, they serve as things to be "aware of" and to "watch out for".


And for the record, those who speak of a "1 pixel out" convergence issue are expecting too much...in fact as mentioned before, 1 Pixel out after being subjected to the rigors of Shipping and installation is considered completely within the boundaries of acceptable performance by every LCD Projector Mfg. Perfect convergence is the exception rather than the rule, and such a level cannot be determined by viewing content...only when making the effort to view a Test pattern.


How about we start hearing from all those who received 8350s that came out of the Box "right as rain"?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20187826
> 
> 
> All these seeming issues.....?
> 
> 
> Over the last 5 months I've personally seen 14- 8350s go in and not a one of 'em had any of the convergence issues, color shadows, or lines spoken about by the relatively few unfortunate individuals in this Thread.



I don't disagree that 1 to 1.5 pixels off is average and should be a keeper for most buying a $1300 projector, especially if it's just 1 or 2 panels being off. The person that posted their image earlier appeared to have had all 3 panels out of alignment and although hard to judge from his picture, it appeared closer to 2.5 pixels off, that is too much.


To others with convergence issues, 1 to 1.5 pixels isn't bad, 1/2 to 1 pixel is better, otherwise it's up to you on how bad it bothers you.


I have seen several Epson's as well, having owned 2. Based on the ones I have seen, it's about a 50% chance if you get one with questionable convergence worse than 1 to 1.5 pixels off or not (but these were 8500ub's I saw primarily), and this year's seem to be a little better, so I can't speak to the 8350 specifically.


One I owned was off by about 1.75 pixels total, the other was off by 2.75. The one off by 2.75 or so I returned and got the one with 1.75. I had other problems with the Epsons and returned it outright.


Problem was when comparing it's sharpness to my 5 year old Sanyo Z5 (which is 1/4 pixel off on blue), there was a noticeable sharpness difference between the Sanyo and the better Epson 8500ub that was 1.75 pixels off, unacceptable to me that buying a projector 5 years NEWER and more expensive would be less sharp than a 720p from years ago, even realizing the Z5 had near perfect convergence, but still.


That said many of the Epsons are VERY sharp when they have good convergence, I just think at some point it is questionable.


----------



## yourchef51

Hey everybody,


I just set up the 8350, my first projector, after years (and I mean years) of waiting for the budget and the room. Needless to say I am blown away and the wife and kids can't stop saying wow.


I have not done any adjustments but I have noticed things. I am using a Directv dvr. I noticed some stuttering during the nuggets game last night and also on some channels there is a thin flickering line across the top of the picture. I am assuming this has nothing to do with the projector but I just wanted to make sure before I coantacted directv. Am I right? Thanks.


DJ


----------



## SonyCrusader

I'm on my third 8350 and its convergence is pretty good. The other two were off enough to be a distraction. Uniformity is off a little, but it's probably scatter/leakage in and around the panels/prisms. There are some basic light shields around the core components but there's much room for improvement.


My biggest issue is I run out of adjustment range when setting my primaries. I offset the "regular" color sat control lower to compensate but I'm still running negative-50 and more to hit the targets for red and green. This is in cinema and natural modes.


I figure there's a service menu control to get these under control.


Has anyone found a source for the service manual or have a parameter list? These machines are diamonds in the rough. We can make 'em better.


I really enjoy what I see as I get this hot rod dialed in. Probably the best A/V value for price/performance today. Very high-joy factor!


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourchef51* /forum/post/20188362
> 
> 
> Hey everybody,
> 
> 
> I just set up the 8350, my first projector, after years (and I mean years) of waiting for the budget and the room. Needless to say I am blown away and the wife and kids can't stop saying wow.
> 
> 
> I have not done any adjustments but I have noticed things. I am using a Directv dvr. I noticed some stuttering during the nuggets game last night and also on some channels there is a thin flickering line across the top of the picture. I am assuming this has nothing to do with the projector but I just wanted to make sure before I coantacted directv. Am I right? Thanks.
> 
> 
> DJ



If you notice a thin flickering white line at the very top or very bottom of the screen on a channel such as ESPN, this is most likely due to overscan. For watching tv, I generally set my 8350 to 2%-4% overscan. If you are encountering a different issue I would try switching HDMI cables to see if that corrects it. I have not experienced any stuttering with mine so I can't comment on that


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20159024
> 
> 
> I have a HT with a Panasonic DMP-BD35 BD player connected to a Monoprice HDX-501 HDMI 1.3b switch. The switch is connected to a Yamaha RX-V661 AVR (HDMI 1.2a). The AVR is connected to the Epson 8350 through 30 feet of 22 gauge HDMI cable. The setup plays without problem until I try to switch it to 24p 2:2 pulldown. When I go into the DMP-BD35's setup menu "TV/Device Connection > HDMI connection", the "24p" setting is grayed-out, and I can't select it. The instruction manual tells me to select this "When playing DVD-Video", but I can't get into "setup menu" when the unit is playing.
> 
> 
> Over on the PJ side, the menu "Signal > 2-2 Pull-down" is also grayed out.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had good luck with this setup?



FYI, Plasmaman42 and anybody else, bypassing the switch did not fix this. I had to bypass the AVR. I will have to run a direct feed to the PJ from the BD player, and send the sound over optical. It is disappointing that an HDMI 1.2a AVR will not do a proper DDC handshake between the PJ and player, but I am not surprised, since HDMI _IS_ the most worthless interface ever shoved down the consumer's throat, but _that_ rant is for another thread.


----------



## mekkerl

jaimegmr -- where did you get screen shots with those RGB lines to show if your colors are off by a pixel or two? Does the 8350 have this programed?


----------



## jaimegmr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/20189977
> 
> 
> jaimegmr -- where did you get screen shots with those RGB lines to show if your colors are off by a pixel or two? Does the 8350 have this programed?



I got the images from this page:
http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/1080p_tests 

I used the Horizontal and Vertical Convergence images. Click on the image you want and then click on "Original" under the image to show the full 1080p image. Save it to your computer and display it full screen.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jaimegmr* /forum/post/20190004
> 
> 
> I got the images from this page:
> http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/1080p_tests
> 
> I used the Horizontal and Vertical Convergence images. Click on the image you want and then click on "Original" under the image to show the full 1080p image. Save it to your computer and display it full screen.



thanks for that


will post a pic later of my results

be interesting to get a few up to see the differences between PJ's


----------



## knightsbridge

I've had the 8350 now for more than 3 months. have about 130 hrs on it. I too have been dismayed at the overall sharpness of images.


In all honesty, when viewing U-Verse content, the HD image on my 8350 is only a little better than the same standard def image on my LCD TV. PS3 and Blu-ray content is definitely better but still lacking.


Please take a look at these convergence pics (though not best quality). I'd like to know if I might do better with a replacement unit.


Thanks.


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20190380
> 
> 
> I've had the 8350 now for more than 3 months. have about 130 hrs on it. I too have been dismayed at the overall sharpness of images.
> 
> 
> In all honesty, when viewing U-Verse content, the HD image on my 8350 is only a little better than the same standard def image on my LCD TV. PS3 and Blu-ray content is definitely better but still lacking.
> 
> 
> Please take a look at these convergence pics (though not best quality). I'd like to know if I might do better with a replacement unit.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



hell yea u should ask for a replacement unit


----------



## mech27

Has anyone purchased the entire Epson 8350 pkg from visual apex & if so what was their experience with the screen & the projector mount. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 106". The screen will be going in the basement it is totally light controlled the only problem I have is I cannot fit anything larger on the wall.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20190380
> 
> 
> In all honesty, when viewing U-Verse content, the HD image on my 8350 is only a little better than the same standard def image on my LCD TV. PS3 and Blu-ray content is definitely better but still lacking.



Your convergence doesn't look as bad as the other guy's, but these are poor pictures and need to be clearer and a bit closer up. A projector is rarely as sharp as an LCD TV, unless you get a DLP projector. Sharpness mainly matters for gaming and HTPC, much less for movies.


It sort of looks like yours if off by about 1.5 - 2 pixels, green and red, but your blue seems to look perfect (unless the red is just overlapping it).


If you want us to really tell, you need to grab a camera shot with black text on a white background, sometimes I find it is easier to judge because if the camera is distorted or fringed I can tell easier from text then from a straight line.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20190380
> 
> 
> I've had the 8350 now for more than 3 months. have about 130 hrs on it. I too have been dismayed at the overall sharpness of images.
> 
> 
> In all honesty, when viewing U-Verse content, the HD image on my 8350 is only a little better than the same standard def image on my LCD TV. PS3 and Blu-ray content is definitely better but still lacking.
> 
> 
> Please take a look at these convergence pics (though not best quality). I'd like to know if I might do better with a replacement unit.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



yikes. Yeah, I would not tolerate that


----------



## Bdex75

Now I need to look closer at mine. I took some pics before I left the house, need to look at them to compare mine to the previous screen shots of the pattern. What is everyone doing to post pictures on here? Every time I try all I get is the ed x's.


Also, since it seems that several people are having issues with convergence, has anyone figured out an adjustment that will allow for the correction of this? I have looked at Art's article/guide on pj central and bought the calibration disc with my pj from visual apex. Have not put the DVD in yet, do not have a DVD player on the pj as of right now.


----------



## knightsbridge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20191055
> 
> 
> Your convergence doesn't look as bad as the other guy's, but these are poor pictures and need to be clearer and a bit closer up. A projector is rarely as sharp as an LCD TV, unless you get a DLP projector. Sharpness mainly matters for gaming and HTPC, much less for movies.
> 
> 
> It sort of looks like yours if off by about 1.5 - 2 pixels, green and red, but your blue seems to look perfect (unless the red is just overlapping it).
> 
> 
> If you want us to really tell, you need to grab a camera shot with black text on a white background, sometimes I find it is easier to judge because if the camera is distorted or fringed I can tell easier from text then from a straight line.




Basic question (in case I have this discussion with Epson):

The pixel deviation is measured from a "midline" rather than equaling the total pixels separating the green from the red?


BTW - better pics to follow.


----------



## Bdex75

I got really close to the test pattern today and got some pictures. I am not sure (like previous poster) what is acceptable according to Epson. I have not calibrated this projector at all with the exception of switching the color to 6500k and turning the iris on "normal". I have the calibration disc that comes in the package from VisualApex, but have not used it yet. If what you see below, in your opinion, is problematic is it something that I can calibrate to fix? I have also attached a picture of the mostly finished theatre area of the basement. My granite and carpet are all going in this week.Speaking of fixing, someone a lot smarter than I may have to fix the picture, I have had no luck posting pictures on the forum.

Thanks

Brandon


----------



## corsair drone

Hi guys, firstly want to thank everyone who donates time, energy & knowledge to this wonderful forum & great thread. Recently purchased an 8350 and was initially in love with it. After a few days of trying out various different content/sources I become aware of image blur on part of the screen. I've played with the focus for hours, repositioned the PJ, tried with no lens shift and still there is image blur. The odd thing is if the image is say, blurred on the bottom 1/3rd of the screen, the rest will be sharp & focused. If the focus is then played with, that bottom half can be sharpened up but then the top 1/3rd will go blurry. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cheers


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20191980
> 
> 
> Basic question (in case I have this discussion with Epson):
> 
> The pixel deviation is measured from a "midline" rather than equaling the total pixels separating the green from the red?
> 
> 
> BTW - better pics to follow.



You have to look at the outermost pixel of where the white meets the black at each side of the text (and different locations on the text/screen in all directions), that's why it makes it hard to judge by a camera sometimes. Sometimes it might help to look at where the cross-hatch lines meet horizontally and vertically to be able to tell easier (depends). You can display the same picture on your LCD PC monitor and on your projector, then compare the 2, that is probably the easiest way.


Basically there is vertical and horizontal displacement of a pixel. Problem is in cases where the pixel is off it can cover the white or bleed across in the picture and make it had to tell if there was even supposed to be a pixel there or not, that's why it's probably better to use a picture that has a reference to another unit's picture that has near-perfect convergence, that way you can tell easier.


I think technically if red is 1 pixel off one direction, and blue 1 pixel off the sane direction, then it means you still have only 1-pixel off convergence. However, I just add up the totals of all 3 colors and consider that the mis-convergence, because I'm picky










Generally, look at the color fringing at the edge where the black text meets the white background, how far out does the fringing go in each direction and for what colors. It's hard to tell when multiple colors are off-alignment and overlapping (especially from a picture vs. the naked eye which is easier to tell).


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20193187
> 
> 
> You have to look at the outermost pixel of where the white meets the black at each side of the text (and different locations on the text/screen in all directions), that's why it makes it hard to judge by a camera sometimes. Sometimes it might help to look at where the cross-hatch lines meet horizontally and vertically to be able to tell easier (depends). You can display the same picture on your LCD PC monitor and on your projector, then compare the 2, that is probably the easiest way.
> 
> 
> Basically their is vertical and horizontal displacement of a pixel. Problem is in cases where the pixel is off it can cover the white or bleed across in the picture and make it had to tell if there was even supposed to be a pixel there or not, that's why it's probably better to use a picture that has a reference to another unit's picture that has near-perfect convergence, that way you can tell easier.
> 
> *I think technically if red is 1 pixel off one direction, and blue 1 pixel off another direction, then it means you still have only 1-pixel off convergence.* However, I just add up the totals of all 3 colors and consider that the mis-convergence, because I'm picky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally, look at the color fringing at the edge where the black text meets the white background, how far out does the fringing go in each direction and for what colors. It's hard to tell when multiple colors are off-alignment and overlapping (especially from a picture vs. the naked eye which is easier to tell).



That would be +/- one pixel which is twice as bad as + one pixel or - one pixel. I would not want to live with a projector that had two or three of the colors off 1 pixel in different directions.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjg100* /forum/post/20193226
> 
> 
> That would be +/- one pixel which is twice as bad as + one pixel or - one pixel. I would not want to live with a projector that had two or three of the colors off 1 pixel in different directions.



I just add up the totals sometimes for simpicity sakes. Right though, technically each color off should be listed as individually being off X amount, and I agree and wouldn't want any 2 colors off to combine for more than a full pixel, or at least a full pixel and a half if your not that picky.


I think the industry standard is generally if the pixels are off by 1.5 or greater you have a problem (1 to 1.25 or less being acceptable). Epson says up to 2 pixels off is ok, but this is pretty annoying IMO. 2 pixels off by convergence is pretty bad.


Personally, to me if it's off by anything more than a full pixel, you've got a problem, but depends on how picky you are, and given Epson's convergence history - 1.5 pixels may be more realistic.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20193187
> 
> 
> I think technically if red is 1 pixel off one direction, and blue 1 pixel off another direction, then it means you still have only 1-pixel off convergence. However, I just add up the totals of all 3 colors and consider that the mis-convergence, because I'm picky



I think you have to consider the total spread of the 3 colours. With two pixels between red and blue you don't really have the 1080p projector you paid for (it can't resolve the details it's supposed to, unless they happen to be mainly in one of the primary colours).


The funny thing about one set of images posted earlier is that red was not just shifted, the red panel must also have been tilted which produced a different shift at left and right sides of the image. That kind of problem couldn't be solved by having controls to shift each colour, although that would be a good way to improve most of the convergence issues (compare the Vertical - Bottom Left and Vertical - Bottom Right images in this post).


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/20176029
> 
> 
> So lets say if we use living or dynamic mode the black bars will be barely visible but if we use cinema mode vuala no black bars and here it is 2:35 setup
> 
> 
> right?



Vao, I pretty much use dynamic all the time, even for movies...and the black bars are not an issue...and my wall isn't even black..it's a pumpkin color. I would imagine if you had a black wall, it would not be an issue at all.


----------



## Hagopian

Peace


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/20193466
> 
> 
> I think you have to consider the total spread of the 3 colours.
> 
> 
> The funny thing about one set of images posted earlier is that red was not just shifted, the red panel must also have been tilted which produced a different shift at left and right sides of the image.



It depends if the pixels are shifted in opposite directions or towards each other, but in general, yes. If the red and blue for instance are both shifted 1 to the left, you get a purple looking 1 pixel off look, that's not as bad as if red is shifted left and blue shifted right, but either way I prefer to return it if any 1 panel is off more than 1 pixel.


----------



## Vao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hagopian* /forum/post/20193482
> 
> 
> Vao, I pretty much use dynamic all the time, even for movies...and the black bars are not an issue...and my wall isn't even black..it's a pumpkin color. I would imagine if you had a black wall, it would not be an issue at all.



Don't get me wrong man. I didn't change my choice. I just asking myself the same questions as you before buying it.


How I said before - great screens


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *corsair drone* /forum/post/20193166
> 
> 
> Hi guys, firstly want to thank everyone who donates time, energy & knowledge to this wonderful forum & great thread. Recently purchased an 8350 and was initially in love with it. After a few days of trying out various different content/sources I become aware of image blur on part of the screen. I've played with the focus for hours, repositioned the PJ, tried with no lens shift and still there is image blur. The odd thing is if the image is say, blurred on the bottom 1/3rd of the screen, the rest will be sharp & focused. If the focus is then played with, that bottom half can be sharpened up but then the top 1/3rd will go blurry. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cheers



Have you verified that your projector is level vertically and horizontally to the screen?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20193741
> 
> 
> Have you verified that your projector is level vertically and horizontally to the screen?



My first thought also. If the image is not perfectly square then the distance from lens to screen is not the same every where and that will mean that the whole image can not be in focus.


----------



## darealgerk

I have to say for the record that out of the box my pj is as close to perfect as can be expected. Red us about a half pixel off convergence wise but that's it. Very very happy 8350 owner here.


----------



## newfmp3

Well, looks like I am getting the start of what appears to be a dust blob about baseball size. Only see it faintly on full black screen. 56 hrs on bulb.


----------



## pbusado

I'm getting some jitters when watching my HTPC and trying to troubleshoot the problem.


The issue:
Sometimes jittery.

Sometimes the screen will go black.

Sometimes I will get a very fine static before the screen comes back.

I'll try to post a video of it tonight on Youtube.


Some history:
Had a Sony VPL AW 10 and never saw the issue.

Upgraded to an Epson 8350 and saw the issue.

Saw the issue with my old desktop PC running a 1GB ATI video card HDMI out. This PC had a 40ft. HDMI run to the tuner then another 40ft to the projector.

Built a new HTPC running an i3 processor and using the onboard HDMI - sometime see the issue, but not nearly as much with the old PC. This PC has a 5 ft. HDMI run to the tuner and a 40ft. to the projector.

Don't see it at all from my cable box.


I'm thinking it's one of three things:


1) It may be the HDMI cables. I have dirt cheap cables and they are not to 1.4 spec.


2) It may be a refresh rate issue on the projector or the PC. What should I be setting to on the PC? What about the pulldown stuff that I know NOTHING about (sorry, rookie here).


3) And my least favorite... a bad projector! I don't think it's this as it displays all other sources correctly (and beautifully I might add!).


Thanks for the help and the ideas!


----------



## boucho13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbusado* /forum/post/20195257
> 
> 
> I'm getting some jitters when watching my HTPC and trying to troubleshoot the problem.
> 
> 
> The issue:
> Sometimes jittery.
> 
> Sometimes the screen will go black.
> 
> Sometimes I will get a very fine static before the screen comes back.
> 
> I'll try to post a video of it tonight on Youtube.
> 
> 
> Some history:
> Had a Sony VPL AW 10 and never saw the issue.
> 
> Upgraded to an Epson 8350 and saw the issue.
> 
> Saw the issue with my old desktop PC running a 1GB ATI video card HDMI out. This PC had a 40ft. HDMI run to the tuner then another 40ft to the projector.
> 
> Build a new HTPC running an i3 processor and using the onboard HDMI - sometime see the issue, but not nearly as much with the old PC. This PC has a 5 ft. HDMI run to the tuner and a 40ft. HDMI run to the projector.
> 
> Don't see it at all from my cable box.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking it's one of three things:
> 
> 
> 1) It may be the HDMI cables. I have dirt cheap cables and they are not to 1.4 spec.
> 
> 
> 2) It may be a refresh rate issue on the projector or the PC. What should I be setting to on the PC? What about the pulldown stuff that I know NOTHING about (sorry, rookie here).
> 
> 
> 3) And my least favorite... a bad projector! I don't think it's this as it displays all other sources correctly (and beautifully I might add!).
> 
> 
> Well, thanks for the help and the ideas!



pbusado,


I have a new 8350 (installed for one week), and I connected it to my laptop to watch videos a couple days ago and I had the same problem you described - black screen, funny looking streaks and static, but it only happened when viewing video clips. I could view any web page without any problem until I clicked to view a video.


I hooked up my laptop again last night and for the life of me I could not make it act up at all.


*On a side note I viewed the 1080P convergence images from a few posts ago and have to say that I am extremely satisfied with the overall convergence on my projector.


My last projector was a Panasonic PT-AX200U and I never had a problem using it with my laptop.


I'll try it again tonight and let you know what happens.


Jimmy


----------



## pbusado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boucho13* /forum/post/20195428
> 
> 
> pbusado,
> 
> 
> I have a new 8350 (installed for one week), and I connected it to my laptop to watch videos a couple days ago and I had the same problem you described - black screen, funny looking streaks and static, but it only happened when viewing video clips. I could view any web page without any problem until I clicked to view a video.
> 
> 
> I hooked up my laptop again last night and for the life of me I could not make it act up at all.
> 
> 
> *On a side note I viewed the 1080P convergence images from a few posts ago and have to say that I am extremely satisfied with the overall convergence on my projector.
> 
> 
> My last projector was a Panasonic PT-AX200U and I never had a problem using it with my laptop.
> 
> 
> I'll try it again tonight and let you know what happens.
> 
> 
> Jimmy



Well, at least there is some one else with the same problem. I can't get it to happen all the time either. It's hit or miss. Sometime a lot, sometime not at all for DAYS! Last night is the first time it's happened in a week.


As far as my convergence issues, I think it was more of a perceived problem or a function of the projector being too close to the screen and having to zoom all the way in to cover the screen. I'm now at 14 feet and everything looks fantastic.


----------



## kspahr

After lots of research for a good price/performance projector I just bought an 8350. (It is my first projector too.) I'm waiting on my screen to arrive...


No questions yet, just wanted to say Hi


----------



## knightsbridge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20193508
> 
> 
> It depends if the pixels are shifted in opposite directions or towards each other, but in general, yes. If the red and blue for instance are both shifted 1 to the left, you get a purple looking 1 pixel off look, that's not as bad as if red is shifted left and blue shifted right, but either way I prefer to return it if any 1 panel is off more than 1 pixel.





So in this picture (taking into account its poor quality), wouldn't you say the red and green are offset by at least 2 if not 3 pixels?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20196564
> 
> 
> So in this picture (taking into account its poor quality), wouldn't you say the red and green are offset by at least 2 if not 3 pixels?



I don't want to comment on an image taken from a purple background which is clearly fringing the pixel definition. Can you take a picture of black text on a white background?


If I had to guess, green is off around 1 pixel, red is off by 1.5, but this image is impossible to tell.


----------



## Nickthegrip

The 8350 has a 60hz refresh rate, the 8700 has a 120hz refresh rate. Am I going to notice that much of a difference? Will the 60hz cause motion blur?


----------



## Bdex75

Can someone who has the ability (mod) go to the previous page and fix my pics and tell me what i am doing wrong when posting? I am wondering if my chub over my newfound best friend (8350) is warranted, or it is junk and needs to go back???


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bdex75* 
I got really close to the test pattern today and got some pictures. I am not sure (like previous poster) what is acceptable according to Epson. I have not calibrated this projector at all with the exception of switching the color to 6500k and turning the iris on "normal". I have the calibration disc that comes in the package from VisualApex, but have not used it yet. If what you see below, in your opinion, is problematic is it something that I can calibrate to fix? I have also attached a picture of the mostly finished theatre area of the basement. My granite and carpet are all going in this week.Speaking of fixing, someone a lot smarter than I may have to fix the picture, I have had no luck posting pictures on the forum.

Thanks

Brandon
http://img717.imageshack.us/i/img2723u.jpg 
http://img580.imageshack.us/i/img2722l.jpg 
http://img684.imageshack.us/i/img2719w.jpg 
http://img854.imageshack.us/i/img2718q.jpg
I believe you are using the wrong links.

Anyway, people can now view your pics by clicking on the links.


----------



## Bdex75

Thanks. I will try using one of the other links. I figured out that these pj's are very sensitive to being level both front to back and side to side. I was sitting higher in the front than the back and just screwing the feet in and re leveling seemed to get the red lines to more fully overlay the others. That is the goal of having perfect convergence if I understand correctly, get all of those lines to be right on top of one another?? I will try to get more pics tonight and post tomorrow. Thanks for the help and any feedback on the pictures in the link would be great.


----------



## pbusado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbusado* /forum/post/20195502
> 
> 
> Well, at least there is some one else with the same problem. I can't get it to happen all the time either. It's hit or miss. Sometime a lot, sometime not at all for DAYS! Last night is the first time it's happened in a week.
> 
> 
> As far as my convergence issues, I think it was more of a perceived problem or a function of the projector being too close to the screen and having to zoom all the way in to cover the screen. I'm now at 14 feet and everything looks fantastic.



Watched last night for 5 hours. Didn't flicker once! Ugh!

I put in a support email with Epson describing the problem. Let's see what they say.


----------



## boucho13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbusado* /forum/post/20199600
> 
> 
> Watched last night for 5 hours. Didn't flicker once! Ugh!
> 
> I put in a support email with Epson describing the problem. Let's see what they say.




Yeah...me too. I had my laptop hooked up for about 2-3 hours last night and it worked perfectly.


Please let me know what Epson has to say about it.


----------



## Manos777

 http://reviews.cnet.com/4321-7871_7-6602831.html


----------



## pbusado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20201400
> 
> http://reviews.cnet.com/4321-7871_7-6602831.html



And??


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Manos777*
http://reviews.cnet.com/4321-7871_7-6602831.html
No mono price switcher and it's the first one I would recommend


On another note, epson's support via email is absurd and a joke. I have been over a week trying to get something resolved, their email system or ticket system is completely disjointed. I have tried phoning the tech over and over only to constantly get an answering machine an no returned phone calls. I finally get a hold of yet another tech only to hear a bunch of nonsense I will not repeat here.


So far, not impressed.


----------



## joeags




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20203200
> 
> 
> On another note, epson's support via email is absurd and a joke. I have been over a week trying to get something resolved, their email system or ticket system is completely disjointed. I have tried phoning the tech over and over only to constantly get an answering machine an no returned phone calls. I finally get a hold of yet another tech only to hear a bunch of nonsense I will not repeat here.
> 
> 
> So far, not impressed.



Not wanting to sound rude, but can I ask why you kept this projector in the first place? I remember that you had negatives on it from the beginning, especially compared to the DLP you were coming from, but were at least partially impressed. It seems that a week or two in, you realized you were fighting a losing battle with the black level, iris, and more things, and then the convergence issues were bigger and bigger.


I really don't see you ever being happy with this thing, and being content isn't probably going to happen. Why don't you get a replacement, keep it sealed, and sell it online and recoup some costs - better to lose a couple hundred now and buy something that you're really going to be happy about... *shrug*


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags* /forum/post/20204377
> 
> 
> Not wanting to sound rude, but can I ask why you kept this projector in the first place? I remember that you had negatives on it from the beginning, especially compared to the DLP you were coming from, but were at least partially impressed. It seems that a week or two in, you realized you were fighting a losing battle with the black level, iris, and more things, and then the convergence issues were bigger and bigger.
> 
> 
> I really don't see you ever being happy with this thing, and being content isn't probably going to happen. Why don't you get a replacement, keep it sealed, and sell it online and recoup some costs - better to lose a couple hundred now and buy something that you're really going to be happy about... *shrug*



Totally true. you have a good memory. In all honesty I have a lot going on right now, my health and the health of others being the main thing. It's totally my fault for not looking into returning it sooner. I did try but I was 8 days past my 30 day return policy. I have thought about selling it. If I could get a PJ with no convergence, no dust or other image issues, I think I'd keep it. It does have a few good strengths over other PJ's. I just want what I paid for.


Epson finally contacted me about an hour after my rant above. I'll give them the opportunity to resolve this issue, but I think in the long run, given this PJ's obvious issues, I may just give up at some point and sell it.


----------



## veekay

Epson is upgrading my 6100 to the 8350 due to the reoccuring focus issues. I didn't expect this thread to be so large on this model...


Of course having had the same model for 2 years and now going two models up I'm hoping nothing has changed for the worse with this new model. Getting tired of having to recalibrate so many times!


----------



## Manos777

I have set the 8350 projector to x.y.deep color and found the colors a bit washed out, the darkest blacks to have gotten greyer.


I much prefer the Art calibrated Cinema mode. Colors pop more and contrast ratio seems better.


I am also not enjoying the Auto Iris on either Normal or Fast. Seems to change too much, which forces my eyes to re-adjust and snaps me out of my attention to the movie, making me conscious of the projector's manipulation of the image.


Anyone else agree?


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20173091
> 
> 
> I finally fired mine up tonight after 3 months of sitting in my office and I was impressed. Out of the box it was better than I expected and I only briefly played with the settings. I read the projector central review and adjusted the color from 6500 to 7500, set it to natural and went from there. When I put the grid up and got really close all i saw was the white line, no blue or red outside of that. I guess my convergence is good. No dust blobs. Shooting from 12' on to my diy screen (basically a variant of MM if i read correctly).
> 
> I am very new to the projector game (2 hours and counting), but found myself watching sports center with no audio, since my avr is not hooked up yet!



Adjusted the color to 7500, not 6500? I think that the goal is to set it to 6500 for the most accurate color. Are you happy with the colors at 7500? Anyone else prefer 7500 to 6500? I will try this and see what my eyes tell me and report back.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bdex75* /forum/post/20173091
> 
> 
> I finally fired mine up tonight after 3 months of sitting in my office and I was impressed. Out of the box it was better than I expected and I only briefly played with the settings. I read the projector central review and adjusted the color from 6500 to 7500, set it to natural and went from there. When I put the grid up and got really close all i saw was the white line, no blue or red outside of that. I guess my convergence is good. No dust blobs. Shooting from 12' on to my diy screen (basically a variant of MM if i read correctly).
> 
> I am very new to the projector game (2 hours and counting), but found myself watching sports center with no audio, since my avr is not hooked up yet!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20160454
> 
> 
> I'm nearing the point of pulling the trigger on a projector and I'd love some input from those who own an 8350.
> 
> 
> Since I hate reading posts which don't address all of the different variables, let me allow me some specifics on the room and setup, just in case. I plan on placing the projector in my living room. Despite a black-out curtain in that room (the windows will face the screen). I will have some, but not tons, of ambient light in the room during the day since I live in an open tri-level house where light comes in from other rooms--although none of it will directly hit the screen. At night, total darkness. 8' white ceiling. Light carpet. Screen will be on a cream wall, opposite wall is cream but with dark brown curtains that cover half of it when closed, and dark brown furniture. Dark velvet-red, wall on the right side of the screen and no wall immediately to the left of the screen (it's 130 sqft of open living room and then 3ft of cream wall below a bannister railing and open wall that separates the living room from the higher-sitting kitchen). 92" or 100" screen, either Elite 1.0 gain Cinegrey Elunevision 1.1 gain Grey. Projector will probably be ceiling mounted or placed on a high shelf. Throw will be approx 11'8". A viewing distance when directly in front of the screen will be between 10'-11'. PS3 for streaming and blu-ray/DVD. I hope that gives most of the variables.
> 
> 
> 1) I'm a huge Netflix streaming watcher. Big cinephile. Watch a lot of older movies that Netflix only streams in SD. For the most part, SD streaming has looked pretty decent on my 58" Panasonic V10 Plasma (great TV and I have very high-speed Internet). I've had trouble finding any testimonies form 8350 owners who also stream Netflix a lot. Can anyone share their experience on this? Is it decent? Or does it look like a big YouTubey Oil Painting?
> 
> 
> 2)Also how does it handle DVDs? I know it's not HD quality even when upconverted. So, the ability to handle SD material decently well is important to me. While I love the price for the 8350 (which allows me cash flow for other projects around the house). I've also been heavily considering a refurbed Epson 6500 (since it has the Reon-VX processor and better blacks) or a refurbed 8500 (since it has the Reon-VX and the Super Resolution feature) or an 8700 if I stumbled upon an extra $800. However, if the 8350 handles Streaming SD and DVDs somewhat well, maybe there's no point in considering the other projectors that have more tools to improve SD content.
> 
> 
> 2) Letterbox bars for 2.35:1 content don't don't bother me for the most part. My plasma, which has very deep blacks, shows them during darker scenes (in fact only the Kuro from 3 yrs ago comes close to nearing true black). However, in scenes with more light, the contrast truly kicks in and the black bars are near-pitch black. I find that variation acceptable. I know from several comments that the 8350 has good but not great blacks. I know dark scenes will definitely show the bars easily (even with a grey screen). Yet, are the bars still very noticeable when a scene has some decent light in it?
> 
> 
> 3) I can't find this info anywhere. How long is the power cord that comes with the 8350?
> 
> 
> 4) Does anyone have experience with this projector and the two screens that I'm interested in? If so, how is the viewing angle (I need grey to reject some of the side light my room creates, but I still want a wide viewing angle since some seating will definitely be far left of the screen. With the grey material, does the 8350 still have some punch (if your throw is similar to mine)? Any major hotspotting or noticeable surface material grain?
> 
> 
> 5) Does anyone know of a formula that can be utilized to figure how much horizontal shift shift you have when you are also using vertical shift. I will probably use both (horizontal to a greater degree). I know the percentages and have seen the diagrams. And know that one limits the other. I've just never seen a formula that shows when you have X amount of horizontal shift, you then will only have Y amount of vertical.
> 
> 
> 6) Finally, does placing the projector far to the left or right of the screen and using the horizontal shift affect the viewing angle on a low gain, non-retroreflective screen? Always wondered that. Figured I might as well add the question here.
> 
> 
> Thanks



1) Netflix on SD will be highly dependent on the upscaling. Are you going through a device that does that well? If yes, then you'll be fine. Whenever you project an image up to this size, you are bound to see more grain/artifacts/etc. from a lower definition source. On my Pioneer plasma screen, I refuse to watch SD cable channels for example. Hurts my eyes. But Netflix movies on SD depend on the transfer, too. Some are better than others. You can also tweak the sharpness on this unit to get a better result, too. Lower the sharpness until the image is smooth enough. I just watched Giant (James Dean, Liz Taylor) from Netflix and it looked amazing on my 80" Elite screen using Cinema Mode.


2) DVDs look amazing. The key is not to sit too close to the screen. Sit about twice as far to 1.5 as far as the diagonal of the screen, so for a 100 inch screen, sit 150 to 200 inches away and DVDs will be nearly indistinguishable from Blu Ray discs. This is particularly true for newer movies or good transfers for older movies. That said, don't expect not be able to notice the improvement that using a 1080p source like BR's bring, no matter where you sit. Sitting further back just minimizes the distinction.


3) The power cord is about 6 feet long, approximately.


4) No idea.


5) No idea.


6) No idea.


Good luck!


----------



## Ebola Cereal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20206335
> 
> 
> I have set the 8350 projector to x.y.deep color and found the colors a bit washed out, the darkest blacks to have gotten greyer.
> 
> 
> I much prefer the Art calibrated Cinema mode. Colors pop more and contrast ratio seems better.
> 
> 
> I am also not enjoying the Auto Iris on either Normal or Fast. Seems to change too much, which forces my eyes to re-adjust and snaps me out of my attention to the movie, making me conscious of the projector's manipulation of the image.
> 
> 
> Anyone else agree?



I'm satisfied with the look of the x.y. color setting, but I agree with the Auto Iris causing too frequent changes to the picture's appearance. Also, my main seating is right below the projector and I found the noise of the Iris adjustments too distracting.


----------



## pacemaker

re: calibrating

do those that use ART's settings still set the basic temperature to 7000/7500 or leave it in default mode 6500?

also waht about gamma default or up it before using ART's settings?


----------



## Super Salami

Hey everyone, just a quick intro to say I recently got my 8350 but haven't had a chance to use it much because it's solely for my outdoor patio and the weather has been horrible since I got it. The 2 movies I watched so far looked incredible but then again this is my first projector so I have nothing to compare it to. I see there are over 100+ pages of threads here and I'm going to try and read through them and see what tips/calibrations and stuff you all have come up with!!


I can't wait for the good weather to enjoy my 7.1 surround sound outdoor theater!!!


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have set the 8350 projector to x.y.deep color and found the colors a bit washed out, the darkest blacks to have gotten greyer.
> 
> 
> I much prefer the Art calibrated Cinema mode. Colors pop more and contrast ratio seems better.
> 
> 
> I am also not enjoying the Auto Iris on either Normal or Fast. Seems to change too much, which forces my eyes to re-adjust and snaps me out of my attention to the movie, making me conscious of the projector's manipulation of the image.
> 
> 
> Anyone else agree?



X.y.color will look washed out when you are not using an x.y.color source. For DVD and BD use cinema mode. Iris can be distracting.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20209032
> 
> 
> X.y.color will look washed out when you are not using an x.y.color source. For DVD and BD use cinema mode. Iris can be distracting.



Can you give examples of something you would consider an x.y. color source?


I'm glad you agree that the iris can be distracting. Seems slow and obvious even on fast mode. If it was imperceptable and less obvious, I would use it. As it is, it doesn't seem to add much. Feels like someone is just playing with fade to black knob while I'm watching.


----------



## viper98912

At this price point, does anyone think there's nothing better in terms of bang-for-the-buck than the 8350? Especially for novices?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20208597
> 
> 
> re: calibrating
> 
> do those that use ART's settings still set the basic temperature to 7000/7500 or leave it in default mode 6500?
> 
> also waht about gamma default or up it before using ART's settings?



Most of us use his settings as a starting point and make adjustments to our preference for PQ. Like I bumped the gamma down a notch and enabled super white. I also made minor color changes.

Basically, your screen material may not be optimal/same for Art's settings so adjustments my be needed.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20210988
> 
> 
> Most of us use his settings as a starting point and make adjustments to our preference for PQ. Like I bumped the gamma down a notch and enabled super white. I also made minor color changes.
> 
> Basically, your screen material may not be optimal/same for Art's settings so adjustments my be needed.



Thanks










what benefit do you see in 'super white'?

i noticed the blacks immediately looked slightly better but then realised it had expanded my whites needing the contrast to be hiked back up by +13 to get them back in calibration killing any benefit


----------



## kspahr

Today I put my 106" screen together and fired up my new 8350 - it is just wonderful!


I'm going to use it to show my new documentary that I shot using a Sony PMW-EX3 - the images look even better than on my computer monitor. The colors are amazing with great detail. The documentary is about a fairy festival (the kind of fairy with wings) to which I added some special effects and it really looks magical on the 8350. The wife came into the room to see it and was blown away too!


The only issue I have is the film was shot at 23.98fps and when I set my Panasonic Blu-Ray player to 24fps mode the images stutter, even with the 2.2 pull down in the projector. Normally the Blu-Ray shows as playing at 59.97fps through the projector without any stutter. I'm guessing it is the Blu-Ray player or my encode for the Blu-Ray disc...


But since it look great in normal mode it really isn't a problem. At some point I'll attach another HD source and see if the player is the problem, unless someone has a suggestion.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *pacemaker* 
re: calibrating

do those that use ART's settings still set the basic temperature to 7000/7500 or leave it in default mode 6500?

also waht about gamma default or up it before using ART's settings?
I am really liking how it looks at 7500 with Art's settings. I am likewise pushing the gamma up to 2.4. I think all of this is subject to change based on source/environment combo, not to mention personal taste.


Here's the upside. This machine allows enough flexibility to let you tweak all these setting to your heart's delight, and enough memory slots to create up to 8 to 10 (I forget how many, but plenty) to save your individual tweaked settings in addition to the five modes that are factory installed. I am going to play with all the settings and would encourage other's to do the same.


Truthfully, with a machine that looks so good right out the box, you can't go wrong. Along the way let's post what setting works for us to inspire each other to experiment and squeeze the most PQ juice out of our new toy.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *kspahr* 
Today I put my 106" screen together and fired up my new 8350 - it is just wonderful!


I'm going to use it to show my new documentary that I shot using a Sony PMW-EX3 - the images look even better than on my computer monitor. The colors are amazing with great detail. The documentary is about a fairy festival (the kind of fairy with wings) to which I added some special effects and it really looks magical on the 8350. The wife came into the room to see it and was blown away too!


The only issue I have is the film was shot at 23.98fps and when I set my Panasonic Blu-Ray player to 24fps mode the images stutter, even with the 2.2 pull down in the projector. Normally the Blu-Ray shows as playing at 59.97fps through the projector without any stutter. I'm guessing it is the Blu-Ray player or my encode for the Blu-Ray disc...


But since it look great in normal mode it really isn't a problem. At some point I'll attach another HD source and see if the player is the problem, unless someone has a suggestion.
From what I can tell, this stutter (some call it judder) is due to the lack of harmony between your film (at 23.98 fps) and your Panasonic Blu-ray player, not the projector per se. Can you play this on another TV to check? That will allow you to rule out the projector as the problem.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20211692
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what benefit do you see in 'super white'?
> 
> i noticed the blacks immediately looked slightly better but then realised it had expanded my whites needing the contrast to be hiked back up by +13 to get them back in calibration killing any benefit



Super White's primary function appears to enable display of "above white" content.


100 IRE white is defined at a value of 235. Super white raises passed signal to a value of 253. Other observed effects may be a side-effect of the process.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20215089
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the upside. This machine allows enough flexibility to let you tweak all these setting to your heart's delight, and enough memory slots to create up to 8 to 10 (I forget how many, but plenty) to save your individual tweaked settings in addition to the five modes that are factory installed. I am going to play with all the settings and would encourage other's to do the same.
> 
> 
> Truthfully, with a machine that looks so good right out the box, you can't go wrong. Along the way let's post what setting works for us to inspire each other to experiment and squeeze the most PQ juice out of our new toy.



Absolutely! After fighting with all the undefined service-level parameters in my Sony A3000 RPTV and still not correct all the anomalies in greyscale and color, the 8350 is a pleasure. As you noted, out-of-the-box it looks good. Even if not technically perfect by the numbers, it looks right, not like a neon psychobomb. RGBYCM control in the user menue is brilliant. There's a "default" option to return to original setting if experiments get out of control.


There are 10 memory spots. It allows me to do wholesale and incremental adjustments while keeping the latest "good ones" a couple button-pushes away.


I've been experimenting with neutral-density filters to improve black level, and filters to correct some low-level color contamination at reference black. With full-black content (both image content and the "blank" function) there is a visible and measurable presence of blue and a little red. I stuck a pale CTO gel in front of the lens and it did clean up that blue in black and low-IRE content. It's a subtle thing, but the little things add up! Seriously, I just picked a CTO that looked like it would work, stood the swatchbook on its side to get the filter in the light path at the lens, read the result in HCFR and corrected any undesirable color shifts. No big hassle. (if you're unfamiliar with them, gels are colored mylar or polycarbonate filter films used in stage lighting. A CTO is an orange color, and typically filters out blue. CTB is blue etc.


I do have some trouble in adjusting blue. Using an I-1 and ColorHCFR, I need to make huge changes to influence the data, and sometimes the results don't look right. Sometimes they do.


----------



## Roofus

Installed this weekend on a 92" Da-Lite screen. Image is beautiful. This was intended to be a "budget" build for my parents new basement. And I (and they) am/are blown away with how amazing everything looks.


----------



## newfmp3

I was wondering if someone would try different filters to counter the poor black levels, interesting.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering if someone would try different filters to counter the poor black levels, interesting.



This projectors black levels are far from poor. From reading your prior posts, you obviously are miserable with your purchase. Please don't assume everyone else shares your poor opinion.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20218776
> 
> 
> This projectors black levels are far from poor. From reading your prior posts, you obviously are miserable with your purchase. Please don't assume everyone else shares your poor opinion.



I agree. This projector's black levels are just fine, and can only be slightly out done by the best plasmas, such as Pioneer 7th and 8th generation plasmas. Even those plasmas achieve a very deep dark grey when dealing with a completely dark scene. When you compare this projector to the black level of a movie theater, it is about even, which is more than adequate for 99% of projector buyers. I consider myself pretty picky, but this pj blows me away, particularly when handling the vast majority of movie sources.


Zero judder, great color depth, perfect 1080p clarity and extremely bright. Handles ambient light on brightest setting and in light controlled room blows everyone away.


If money is no object, you can definitely achieve darker black levels by tiny fraction by investing in more expensive projectors, but for most of us, and endless supply of cash is a limiting parameter. In my opinion, the diminishing returns of such an upgrade is simply not worth it.


By no means, am I criticizing anyone who has the money to spend and the eyes/taste to appreciate such an improvement, but simply underlining that this pj is truly awesome and needs to be appreciated on its own merits.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20220034
> 
> 
> I agree. This projector's black levels are just fine, and can only be slightly out done by the best plasmas, such as Pioneer 7th and 8th generation plasmas. Even those plasmas achieve a very deep dark grey when dealing with a completely dark scene. When you compare this projector to the black level of a movie theater, it is about even, which is more than adequate for 99% of projector buyers. I consider myself pretty picky, but this pj blows me away, particularly when handling the vast majority of movie sources.
> 
> 
> Zero judder, great color depth, perfect 1080p clarity and extremely bright. Handles ambient light on brightest setting and in light controlled room blows everyone away.
> 
> 
> If money is no object, you can definitely achieve darker black levels by tiny fraction by investing in more expensive projectors, but for most of us, and endless supply of cash is a limiting parameter. In my opinion, the diminishing returns of such an upgrade is simply not worth it.
> 
> 
> By no means, am I criticizing anyone who has the money to spend and the eyes/taste to appreciate such an improvement, but simply underlining that this pj is truly awesome and needs to be appreciated on its own merits.



+1 I could not agree more, and THANK YOU, THANK YOU for mentioning something that is obvious, movie theater projectors don't give you black levels that are inky black, several people all over any forum strive for a film like, theater like quality, but most movie theaters, unless you go to a digital projection screening don't have deep, deep, black levels lol. As I said I agree, this gives me a really good black level as dark or even darker than what you would see at your local cinema, so kudos to epson for making an affordable color enriched best bang for the buck pjay like the Epson 8350, I am loving mine and the level of quality out matches the price I paid, under 1200, are you guys kidding, this is an no brainer of a pjay


----------



## SonyCrusader

I concur with the "theater" analogy. With white at 13 fL or so, and things dialed in reasonably well, it's more like cinema than television.


Other than QA issues like convergence, my stuff is just observations, not complaints.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I mentioned earlier that I have a hard time setting my blue primary, as my meter doesn't seem to recognize it well.


I finally ran a cal sweep on the various modes to see what their stock settings deliver. As it turns out, the blue primary is already very close to nominal. In XV mode, all primaries are right at Rec 709 points. Other modes tend to push them out a bit. "More is better" mode.


After cal, my primaries and secondaries are dead on. Blue falls into place with a bit of creative manipulation.


Just eyeballing sharpness for artifacts and multiburst deviation, I run a -2 horizontal and -3 vertical (or is the the other way round) with thick/thin at 0 / 0 and it looks right.


About the only thing that needs work is side-to-side uniformity. I get a little more red on the left, more blue on the right. It's only obvious in black-and-white stuff. I'll put a positive spin on it and proclaim it more accurately simulates the CRT experience...


Beyond that, a little strategic blocking and traps inside should fix it. There's a LOT of spill inside. I mean a LOT! I took some pix and at first glance it looks like Times Square. And thats the topside of the main circuit board, topside opposite the optics.


----------



## pbusado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pbusado* /forum/post/20199600
> 
> 
> Watched last night for 5 hours. Didn't flicker once! Ugh!
> 
> I put in a support email with Epson describing the problem. Let's see what they say.



Epson's Response:



> Quote:
> Dear PHIL,
> 
> 
> Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350.
> 
> 
> Troubleshoot the tuner first. Bypass the tuner and run HDMI directly into the projector -- try both ports if needed. If the issue continues check the refresh rate on the computer. Make sure it is within the projector spec. Assuming 1080p then the supported refresh is 24/30/50/60. If the issues continue then upgrade to a better quality or high grade cable and retest.
> 
> 
> Should you require further assistance, please reply and reference incident ID: 110323-003131. If you have a different support issue, submit a request via our U.S. or Canada Support Site and we will respond in a timely manner.
> 
> 
> Thank you again for contacting Epson.



I noticed my video card was putting out 59 I changed it to 60 and haven't seen it since. It's so sporadic though that this may or may not have solved the problem.


If I see it again, the next step will be to replace the cables to 1.4 spec.


----------



## jpolachak

I just wanted to update you all here on avs. You can still get this PJ from Hhgregg for the crazy deal that when on during its initial week or 2 release.


This weekend my old boss came over to watch the UFC fights. He was blown away by the image and value. I am projecting on just an light gray wall nothing special. So I called them and got the same deal for him that I got on the projector at the beginning of its release. If anyone is interested in specifics you can PM me.


----------



## viper98912

What deal is that exactly? After tax I calculate it'd cost me more than 22% more compared to Amazon?


----------



## lcann25

Just wanted to drop a line. Ive had my 8350 for about a month, and started skimming this thread from post #1 when I got it. Now that I am caught up, I want to post that I have a wall painted with Rosco's Projection Screen Paint, which is a very bright matt white. I thought I might be missing something by not having an actual screen, so I ordered a sample of the Jamestown that everyone seems so happy with. Well I can tell you without a lie that hanging the sample on my wall while projecting an image, the sample disappears! Even my wife could not pick out the sample when I asked her to find it, so Either the Rosco paint is real good, or the Jamestown screen leaves a bit to be desired. I plan on trying to get a sample of a name brand like Da-Lite and see how it looks.


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20222016
> 
> 
> What deal is that exactly? After tax I calculate it'd cost me more than 22% more compared to Amazon?



As per the forum rules. We are not supposed to talk about actual price. I was merely stating that the great deal that was going on at a retailer is still available if you ask.


----------



## n1kki6

Figure I will jump into the mix for my first post. I just finished my basement and decided to go with the 8350 for my projector. Painted screen with silver screen paint color mixed into a valspar flat base. Black velvet wrapped boarder. Onkyo 6300 HTIB 7.1 surround.


Until this weeked I couldn't say enough good things. Unfortunately saturday I turned on the prjector and received an error in auto iris screen, then flashing red lights. It did eventually come back on. I have to hand it to epson though, called support today and they are overnighting me a replacement.


Back to the projector, the picture is phenomenal IMO. I have full light control but still like to wtch with some ambient light and the projector fairs really well. Here are some pics.


My Ones question. I am at about a 11-12' throw. I can measure again today. But with the lights on the colors look phenomenal, maybe a bit washed out but the blacks are obviously a bit lacking. If I went with a shade darker grey screen how would that effect my low/no light viewing?


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n1kki6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Figure I will jump into the mix for my first post. I just finished my basement and decided to go with the 8350 for my projector. Painted screen with silver screen paint color mixed into a valspar flat base. Black velvet wrapped boarder. Onkyo 6300 HTIB 7.1 surround.
> 
> 
> Until this weeked I couldn't say enough good things. Unfortunately saturday I turned on the prjector and received an error in auto iris screen, then flashing red lights. It did eventually come back on. I have to hand it to epson though, called support today and they are overnighting me a replacement.
> 
> 
> Back to the projector, the picture is phenomenal IMO. I have full light control but still like to wtch with some ambient light and the projector fairs really well. Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> My Ones question. I am at about a 11-12' throw. I can measure again today. But with the lights on the colors look phenomenal, maybe a bit washed out but the blacks are obviously a bit lacking. If I went with a shade darker grey screen how would that effect my low/no light viewing?



Purple Rain! Haha that's awesome. How did you get Beavis and Butthead in HD? Was it just the start of Jackass 3D?


----------



## Manos777

Anyone have any suggestions for an affordable projector stand? My pj now sits atop the packaging box, which in turn, sits atop a folding eating tray table. Not very stable and looks terrible. I've seen the telescoping tripod stands, but was wondering if there are better alternatives. Any suggestions are welcome.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n1kki6* /forum/post/20223799
> 
> 
> Figure I will jump into the mix for my first post. I just finished my basement and decided to go with the 8350 for my projector. Painted screen with silver screen paint color mixed into a valspar flat base. Black velvet wrapped boarder. Onkyo 6300 HTIB 7.1 surround.
> 
> 
> Until this weeked I couldn't say enough good things. Unfortunately saturday I turned on the prjector and received an error in auto iris screen, then flashing red lights. It did eventually come back on. I have to hand it to epson though, called support today and they are overnighting me a replacement.
> 
> 
> Back to the projector, the picture is phenomenal IMO. I have full light control but still like to wtch with some ambient light and the projector fairs really well. Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> My Ones question. I am at about a 11-12' throw. I can measure again today. But with the lights on the colors look phenomenal, maybe a bit washed out but the blacks are obviously a bit lacking. If I went with a shade darker grey screen how would that effect my low/no light viewing?



Since you are able to control light in the room, I would tweak the projector's settings before changing the color of your screen. Try all five modes, then play with your favorite. Compare black levels on econ mode vs. normal mode. Try the auto iris, etc. Run the THX optimizer and get your contrast and brightness levels as close to reference as possible.


If all that fails to please your eye, go a shade darker, but know that you will only get so black with this projector without trading up and investing at least another $1000 before you see appreciable darker black levels or better contrast, IMHO.


----------



## mech27

All I can say is WOW!!! I stopped @ two A/V stores on my way to work the first had an 9350 on

display so I put in an SD copy of Transformers 2 the picture was ok nothing spectactular I left because the sales person was trying to pressure a sale. Went 2miles down where they had an 8350 on display put Iron Man2 on blu ray in & stayed an hour it looked better than my 50" plasma. It was mind blowing the color was vivid the black was black. I have been turned out!!!!


----------



## n1kki6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakersin2025* /forum/post/20224180
> 
> 
> Purple Rain! Haha that's awesome. How did you get Beavis and Butthead in HD? Was it just the start of Jackass 3D?



Thats just the B&B Do America dvd playing in my ps3.


----------



## viper98912

Nice setup nikki. Approximately how many inches do you think the painted screen size is?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All I can say is WOW!!! I stopped @ two A/V stores on my way to work the first had an 9350 on
> 
> display so I put in an SD copy of Transformers 2 the picture was ok nothing spectactular I left because the sales person was trying to pressure a sale. Went 2miles down where they had an 8350 on display put Iron Man2 on blu ray in & stayed an hour it looked better than my 50" plasma. It was mind blowing the color was vivid the black was black. I have been turned out!!!!



Do you know what screen they were using? I have tried on 3 different materials now with two 8350's, and it's nice but it simply does not compare to either of the 3 plasma's in my house. It is missing some "pop" to me, it is almost flat. Going back and forth it is almost dramatic. Granted I am still waiting for one with better convergence too.


It's all about what you are used to as well.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20227541
> 
> 
> Do you know what screen they were using? I have tried on 3 different materials now with two 8350's, and it's nice but it simply does not compare to either of the 3 plasma's in my house. It is missing some "pop" to me, it is almost flat. Going back and forth it is almost dramatic. Granted I am still waiting for one with better convergence too.
> 
> 
> It's all about what you are used to as well.



Took the time to demo this unit tonight at a BB Mag store,

and i didnt walk away with a plasma feel at all.

Was watching the demo in Natural Mode for the movie ateam.

I find that this model carries alot of over saturation vs some of the other epson units.

This unit really needs a proper calibration if you want to get proper skin tones

and color saturation.

Also i found the colors had alot of push undertones present.


Can these issues be calibrated out ,

Definitely.


If i was to give any 8350 owner advice it would be this,

if you are doing minor calibrations with using minor adjustments

it is not enough.

you need to get into the advanced menu and really do some overhaul to those settings

ie

RGBCMY settings

R

Hue.....-12

Sat.....-44

Brightness....56


it will take drastic settings similar to above to get the maximum out of this unit..

Also this unit tends to Black and white clip easy so double check your settings with a calibration disc like Disney wow....

that will help you get close....


----------



## darealgerk

I just felt the need to chime in here. Giving calibration device to others is nearly useless. It very much depends on screen, distance, ambient light, screen material, your particular pj (yes there can be differences from one run to the next). Not criticizing really, just sayin' ...


My setup with the Elunevision reference screen in a properly blacked out room needed almost no adjustment at all, very minor tweaks to get things calibrated very happily (using a spectrometer, not by eye). Everyone's setup (and for that matter taste and expectations) are very different. Blindly changing settings based on someone else's advice is a waste of time IMHO. Again, just sayin' ...


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darealgerk* /forum/post/20228295
> 
> 
> I just felt the need to chime in here. Giving calibration device to others is nearly useless



True, but for people wanting a quick fix without a calibration meter, they can try various settings and watch content to see which settings look best. In that sense, it is not bad to try different settings, it can just take a very very long time and a lot of experimenting to find the right proximities this way.


It also depends on the viewer's eyes and if they have calibrated projectors before. I can actually get settings on most projectors fairly close just by eye, but this is only because I have a memory of what certain content is supposed to look like. Still I cannot get it nearly as close as with a meter, but I can get it looking ok by my naked eye.


Personally, even without a meter, I recommend getting the HD-DVE disk and Spears & Muncil (but at least the HD-DVE one). Calibrate against the sample faces on the disk. Another option is to compare an LCD monitor to the projector, although LCD monitor's can sometimes be farther off than a projector, these days LCD monitors are getting more and more accurate or so IF you set the LCD's color temp to D65 (many LCD's have a color temp setting right in their menus!).


----------



## mech27

I'm not sure how tall you need the stand to be but Ikea has something that they call side tables that may be able to assist you the cheapest one that they have is something called the Lack table and it starts @ $7 dollars if you need it to be taller you can always build a small platform or riser out of 2x12 or 2x8 and mdf board and then cover it with carpet and then place a lack table on it or get a cheap tv stand from WalMart under $30 and go from there.


----------



## coderguy

Turned out my Cool setting on the Acer was closer to 65k, but I preferred the warm which is near 55k. I don't think I like D65 for LCD monitors too much.


----------



## mech27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20227541
> 
> 
> Do you know what screen they were using? I have tried on 3 different materials now with two 8350's, and it's nice but it simply does not compare to either of the 3 plasma's in my house. It is missing some "pop" to me, it is almost flat. Going back and forth it is almost dramatic. Granted I am still waiting for one with better convergence too.
> 
> 
> It's all about what you are used to as well.



They were using a 110" screen called Vutex and the picture was awesome. I'm not exactly sure what settings the projector was on because when I asked the sales person he said it was on the standard setting ;which to me meant he didn't know. All I can say is that my plasma's days are numbered.


----------



## Innocent Gimp

Who's art and where do I find his calibration settings? Cant decide on a color mode or eco vs normal light mode....HELP!


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/20227904
> 
> 
> Took the time to demo this unit tonight at a BB Mag store,
> 
> and i didnt walk away with a plasma feel at all.
> 
> Was watching the demo in Natural Mode for the movie ateam.
> 
> I find that this model carries alot of over saturation vs some of the other epson units.
> 
> This unit really needs a proper calibration if you want to get proper skin tones
> 
> and color saturation.
> 
> Also i found the colors had alot of push undertones present.
> 
> 
> Can these issues be calibrated out ,
> 
> Definitely.
> 
> 
> If i was to give any 8350 owner advice it would be this,
> 
> if you are doing minor calibrations with using minor adjustments
> 
> it is not enough.
> 
> you need to get into the advanced menu and really do some overhaul to those settings
> 
> ie
> 
> RGBCMY settings
> 
> R
> 
> Hue.....-12
> 
> Sat.....-44
> 
> Brightness....56
> 
> 
> it will take drastic settings similar to above to get the maximum out of this unit..
> 
> Also this unit tends to Black and white clip easy so double check your settings with a calibration disc like Disney wow....
> 
> that will help you get close....



Actually my personal experiences with this projector and all of the reviews state otherwise, this projector is as close to properly adjusted out of the box as one can get. I am sure the unit you checked out at BB has already been butchered by the masses and was no where close to its default settings.


----------



## mech27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/20228725
> 
> 
> They were using a 110" screen called Vutex and the picture was awesome. I'm not exactly sure what settings the projector was on because when I asked the sales person he said it was on the standard setting ;which to me meant he didn't know. All I can say is that my plasma's days are numbered.



I apologize the name of the company is Vutec


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Took the time to demo this unit tonight at a BB Mag store,
> 
> and i didnt walk away with a plasma feel at all.
> 
> Was watching the demo in Natural Mode for the movie ateam.
> 
> I find that this model carries alot of over saturation vs some of the other epson units.
> 
> This unit really needs a proper calibration if you want to get proper skin tones
> 
> and color saturation.
> 
> Also i found the colors had alot of push undertones present.
> 
> 
> Can these issues be calibrated out ,
> 
> Definitely.
> 
> 
> If i was to give any 8350 owner advice it would be this,
> 
> if you are doing minor calibrations with using minor adjustments
> 
> it is not enough.
> 
> you need to get into the advanced menu and really do some overhaul to those settings
> 
> ie
> 
> RGBCMY settings
> 
> R
> 
> Hue.....-12
> 
> Sat.....-44
> 
> Brightness....56
> 
> 
> it will take drastic settings similar to above to get the maximum out of this unit..
> 
> Also this unit tends to Black and white clip easy so double check your settings with a calibration disc like Disney wow....
> 
> that will help you get close....



I have to comment on this post. First and foremost, the Natural setting on this projector is probably my least favorite out of the box. The cinema for light controlled and the living room for ambient light are excellent settings right out of the box. For the majority of buyers looking for an entry level 1080p projector, this is not only one of the brightest, but out of the box it is one of the best calibrated. Numerous reviews have commented how little they had to adjust out of the box, with the most common adjustment being color temp. In my experience viewing projectors at best buy, there is usually ambient light, and you never know how many hours are on the bulb. I never enjoy seeing projectors in store.


For any beginner looking to get into a projector, please take the above post with a grain of salt, as this projector out of the box is fantastic on the two modes I mentioned, and with the lens shift abilities, you are surely going to be up and running in no time.


Also, for anybody who thinks they are going to get plasma like black on a 100+ inch screen from a $1200 projector, sadly you won't, but you will get popping color pretty good black levels, and dropping jaws from all who watch it...


I constantly see comparisons to the 8500ub and of course the 8500 wins, but the price reflects this. So just keep in mind we are discussing a $1200 projector that in my opinion blows away my $1600 55" LCD. If you are looking for the plasma blacks and the best picture ever, dish out the cash and find your way to the $3000 and up forums... This forum is quickly filling up with the same complaints, and for the people out there looking to purchase one, I say, there is a reason this is the top selling entry level 1080p projector. Because for the price, it is an amazing projector.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20229401
> 
> 
> Also, for anybody who thinks they are going to get plasma like black on a 100+ inch screen from a $1200 projector, sadly you won't, but you will get popping color pretty good black levels, and dropping jaws from all who watch it...



Well put. I only make my comments hoping that a new soon to be owner goes into the purchase with a realistic idea on what expect. If you go by some of the opinions here and even some of the reviews, it makes the PJ seem like it is far better then it is.


I admit myself that I didnt do enough research this time around. I am usually made fun of when it comes to taking months to decide on a PJ, but the one time I didn't, I ended up not completely satisified. Threads here made me think it was a better PJ then it is.


Is it good...darn straight, but comparing it to argueabbly the best PQ type displays (PIO plasma's, Panny's etc) is a stretch at best.


If I could get one with no dust issues, good convergence, and reliable I'd be perfectly happy for the 1200 bucks I spent on it.


As for Newbies doing crazy calibration settings....I do not advise it.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/20229282
> 
> 
> I apologize the name of the company is Vutec



I still have not seen many Vutec screens in person. Not cheap screens at all. I wonder if it was a Silverstar.


----------



## Allforce

Where are the controls and how easy are they to access on the 8350? This is my first projector and I am planning on putting mine in a recessed in-wall shelf behind my seating area and underneath the stairs in my basement area. Will this allow me to use the remote at all if all that's visible from the room is the front of the projector?


----------



## jmoakk

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this projector. It will be my first projector setup coming from a Panasonic 54G10. Here are a few pictures of my living room.















































I want to mount the projector on a shelf above our setting area and place the screen on the current TV wall.


Wall to wall: 16ft

Throw: 14.5ft

Projector wall: 9ft h

Screen wall: 12.5ft w x 7ft h screen area.

Vaulted ceiling: 9ft from the projector wall up to 12ft toward the screen wall. White ceiling


Will this setup work? How high should I mount the projector on the back wall? I was going to go with a 120" screen but it would be pretty low to the ground on a 7ft wall. Should I go 110" or 100" instead? I want to mount the projector as high as possible so when I stand up I'm not in the way. Would a small screen also benefit this? I have a kinect and wii which I would like to play if possible.


Viewing habits

HD Cable (A Little SD)

Blu-Rays & DVDs

Netflix

Xbox (kinect) & Wii

NO 3D


I also plan on getting blackout curtains to help with the light.


----------



## Robert2011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20230583
> 
> 
> I want to mount the projector on a shelf above our setting area and place the screen on the current TV wall.
> 
> 
> Wall to wall: 16ft
> 
> Throw: 14.5ft
> 
> Projector wall: 9ft h
> 
> Screen wall: 12.5ft w x 7ft h screen area.
> 
> Vaulted ceiling: 9ft from the projector wall up to 12ft toward the screen wall. White ceiling
> 
> 
> Will this setup work? How high should I mount the projector on the back wall? I was going to go with a 120" screen but it would be pretty low to the ground on a 7ft wall. Should I go 110" or 100" instead? I want to mount the projector as high as possible so when I stand up I'm not in the way. Would a small screen also benefit this? I have a kinect and wii which I would like to play if possible.
> 
> 
> Viewing habits
> 
> HD Cable (A Little SD)
> 
> Blu-Rays & DVDs
> 
> Netflix
> 
> Xbox (kinect) & Wii
> 
> NO 3D
> 
> 
> I also plan on getting blackout curtains to help with the light.



The 8350 is great when it comes to flexibility in mounting. It should work, but to be sure, here's a quote from my previous post in this thread in regards to projector placement:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robert2011* /forum/post/20148830
> 
> 
> Here's a really helpful link that will fully demonstrate the 8350's capability for a given room size.
> 
> http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/
> 
> 
> Yes, inverted, the projector displays from lens level down. (If that makes sense) I'm not sure the 8350 has a additional built in offset. At least I can't find anything mentioning it, and I'm guessing that's because it has lens shift as a feature. At any rate, this link will help you determine the best placement for your situation. When selecting a projector, make sure you select the "Home" tab and not the "Business" tab. Good luck!


----------



## MississippiMan

jmoakk,


While "BIG" is better when playing Kinect, with a Pj, the distance from the Screen you stand is directly tied to just how close you can get to the Screen before intruding into the Projector's beam..


The angle of incidence will be more steep with a closer / closest possible Throw distance, and a PJ mounting solution that places the PJ as high as possible.


Reducing your Screen size expectations to 110"...or ( ugh) 100" and also providing for the aforementioned suggestions will get you very close to an optimal situation...evem with just 7' to play with.


Also, if allowable, crowding the Ceiling with the Screen (6"?) but applying a Light Absorbent material like ProtoStar Telescope Flocking (99% light absorption)
http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm 


Will then allow you to go bigger with the Screen by drastically eliminating potentially "contrast destroying" reflections coming from the Screen's output from reflecting back to the Screen from off that Ceiling.


One last thing...to my eye and reasoning (...and I design these crazy things....) allowing for a well framed Screen to go slightly above that short "Plant Ledge Wall" Would not look bad at all. Just about anything that will both allow you to have a larger Screen, and place the PJ so you can stand as close to the Screen as possible should be high on your list of considerations.


----------



## jmoakk

Thanks guy, any ideas on how I should go about mounting it? I'm having a hard time finding a shelf that has the depth to hold the projector. The wife also suggested a shelf to cover the entire lenght of that back wall. Then I can run the cable along the shelf and not have to drop them down the wall until the end of the shelf. That way I could hide the cable behind the curtain. I have a conduit that comes out behind the couch but its low so I would have to run the cables outside of the wall up to the projector.


----------



## jmoakk

It comes with a two year warranty correct? Does that cover any type of failure? Bulb?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk*  /forum/post/20230913
> 
> 
> It comes with a two year warranty correct? Does that cover any type of failure? Bulb?




For now...and still valid, Epson is warranting the Bulb for the length of the PJ warranty.


The 830's Fan Intake is located on the Rear, so besides it's own depth, you'll need to allow for at least 4" between the rear wall and the PJ's hinie.


Is there no way to mount the thing off the Ceiling? Are you unable to logistically or "skill-wise" run the Cabling behind the Walls / Ceiling?


That's a nice room. I don't see having a 20" deep shelf running all the way across the room would do anything for the looks.


There's always a way to do thing right...or at least as rightly as possible.

I'll be glad to help all I can...even up to instructing you on the finer arts of Retrofitting Cabling into walls and mounting PJs on Ceilings where there is no access above.


Your call....but as of now, if you do mount the PJ off the back wall, it should go up at least 9' and be suspended from a "Pole or Truss-like" scaffold mount.


As far as mounting a Fixed Screen...if you decide to go down that path...it will probably be the very least worrisome aspect of this installation.


The most worrisome? Next to getting your wiring run effectively behind the walls (Drywall entry and repair...not really all that difficult...) it will be getting the Screen's bottom height up from the Floor as far as possible, and mounting the PJ both as high as possible and as close as possible. (...right now as I can see it, the bottom edge of the Viewable Screen image will need to be at minimum located at the same height as the bottom edge of the TV Display. MINIMUM!...) Bluntly stated, if you stick with the rear wall mounting solution, you'll need to mount PJ at least 10' up on that wall and use the 8350's Lens Shift feature judiciously to put the image onto the Screen. That Sir is the only possible way your gonna have to realize both as Big Screen, and the ability to stand in front of the Seating area and play Kinect Games without casting your head's shadow onto the Screen.


----------



## jmoakk

Mounting it on the ceiling seemed to be a much harder task. I also wasn't sure if I would be able to shift the image down far enough onto the 7ft wall from across the room if I mounted it onto the ceiling about 10-11ft high. I also have that fan which was a concern.


There is a conduit going from behind my tv to the other side behind my couch. I was going to use that same run for my hdmi cable. If I mount it on the ceiling I could cut into that conduit where need be. However what would I do about power?


I went ahead and purchased the projector







and a 75ft hdmi cable. I will test both before actually making the run. This way I have it in hand and can play around with positioning before buying a screen. Once its mounted and I like what I see ill get a screen. I figured I won't know anything for sure without having the projector to play with and test different locations.


I found a 16ft usb extension for the kinect. I could always get that with the kinect stand and move it closer to the projector away from the screen whenever I play. That might help with keeping me out of the projectors path.


----------



## newfmp3

just curious, but when you call in for a bulb replacment, do you send the old bulb back?


----------



## Allforce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20231234
> 
> 
> just curious, but when you call in for a bulb replacment, do you send the old bulb back?



I know what you're up to!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20231198
> 
> 
> Mounting it on the ceiling seemed to be a much harder task. I also wasn't sure if I would be able to shift the image down far enough onto the 7ft wall from across the room if I mounted it onto the ceiling about 10-11ft high. I also have that fan which was a concern.
> 
> 
> There is a conduit going from behind my tv to the other side behind my couch. I was going to use that same run for my hdmi cable. If I mount it on the ceiling I could cut into that conduit where need be. However what would I do about power?



Pull up an extension Cord through the remaining Conduit that runs upward from behind the Couch.

I know of a couple Ceiling mounts designed for pitched ceilings. And the Epson 8350 has an extremely wide Lens Shift feature (95% of screen height "up & down")



> Quote:
> I went ahead and purchased the projector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a 75ft hdmi cable. I will test both before actually making the run. This way I have it in hand and can play around with positioning before buying a screen. Once its mounted and I like what I see ill get a screen. I figured I won't know anything for sure without having the projector to play with and test different locations.



I understand your concerns, and wanting to "see" things somewhat in place before committing. On the other hand, I make decisions based on what I know "will work best" and then simply set out to get'ter dun. That does tend to make me be a little abrupt in my "suggestions", because to me, nothing seems overly impossible. Smack me if I get a bit too pretentious....










Don't get me wrong though...I'm all for doing things as easily as possible. I just never go any direction that compels me to settle for sub-standard results, either with and image, or how the installation is designed /looks.



> Quote:
> I found a 16ft usb extension for the kinect. I could always get that with the kinect stand and move it closer to the projector away from the screen whenever I play. That might help with keeping me out of the projectors path.



Really, it will all be dependent upon the angle of the projected image as relates to where it starts coming downward from the PJ's Lens. No location at 7'-8' high and more than 12' back will get you where you want to be if "Big" is where your headed.


I really do wish I could say otherwise, but having just completed a 8350 installation hitting on a 122"er, and with a Kinect system intended for use, I'm knowing exactly what you have to consider. On that set-up I placed the bottom of the Screen at 42" high off the Floor, and the PJ at 11' 6" back and at a height of 10'


Good luck....let me know if I can help.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20231287
> 
> 
> I know what you're up to!



They ask for them to be returned now....didn't at first. Leave it to people to try to take advantage!


It was actually both good marketing and public relations to own up to the potential issues of the other Epson's bulbs. However the 8350 seemed to have almost nil Bulb issues in comparison, yet it too was included in the Replacement policy.


I've watched this Thread become the fastest growing Thread in AVS history. No foolin'! Nothing even comes remotely close. 408,000 + views and just a few posts under 4000 replies...all in just 6 months as of today.


Absolutely the vast majority of posts elaborate on the many virtues of this "Bargain of Bargains" Projector. Of course not everyone is/has been happy. But those folks almost all had other issues to blame...not the 8350.


We all can only hope Epson and other PJ Mfgs will see and realize how placing such quality and feature sets at such a desirable price point can...and does encourage many "Fence Sitters" to jump down off their pointy perches "Get em one 'o dose!", and that they will keep presenting consumers with such excellent goads toward getting "The Big Picture Show" for their Homes.


"Jetsons Wall-Sized TVs". We've been lusting after them ever since Leroy first turned his on.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20231431
> 
> 
> They ask for them to be returned now....didn't at first. Leave it to people to try to take advantage!
> 
> 
> It was actually both good marketing and public relations to own up to the potential issues of the other Epson's bulbs. However the 8350 seemed to have almost nil Bulb issues in comparison, yet it too was included in the Replacement policy.
> 
> 
> I've watched this Thread become the fastest growing Thread in AVS history. No foolin'! Nothing even comes remotely close. 408,000 + views and just a few posts under 4000 replies...all in just 6 months as of today.
> 
> 
> Absolutely the vast majority of posts elaborate on the many virtues of this "Bargain of Bargains" Projector. Of course not everyone is/has been happy. But those folks almost all had other issues to blame...not the 8350.
> 
> 
> We all can only hope Epson and other PJ Mfgs will see and realize how placing such quality and feature sets at such a desirable price point can...and does encourage many "Fence Sitters" to jump down off their pointy perches "Get em one 'o dose!", and that they will keep presenting consumers with such excellent goads toward getting "The Big Picture Show" for their Homes.
> 
> 
> "Jetsons Wall-Sized TVs". We've been lusting after them ever since Leroy first turned his on.



Yeah, this 8350 thread is ALWAYS on the first page when I log in. I agree with everything else you have said. Epson just contacted me and said they found one, checked convergence for me, claim blue is off by half a pixel "which is within spec" and are sending it. Crossing my fingers that they checked good enough and not just with their pattern - which is not very good for checking convergence imho.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20231287
> 
> 
> I know what you're up to!



I don't know what your talking about!

Jokes aside, they could pull this 2yr warranty on our bulbs at any time they want. I do not feel good about that.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20231330
> 
> 
> I know of a couple Ceiling mounts designed for pitched ceilings. Good luck....let me know if I can help.



Could you lead me to those mounts? Thanks a ton for all your help and advice.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20231523
> 
> 
> Could you lead me to those mounts? Thanks a ton for all your help and advice.



Peerless ppa-b will do, but it has a 11" drop, which can be handy or useless to you. It also allows wall mount


----------



## coderguy

Blue 1/2 pixel off would be what I consider perfect convergence. Blue pixels affect sharpness less than red pixels, and green is somewhere in between (just judging in general from experience). Any pixel off just 1/2 is basically perfect, even if you have 2 pixels off 1/2 (close enough).


IMHO, Red pixels being off are the worst, even blue + red being off the same direction often isn't as bad as just red being off.


It's because on white text in dark scenes, the blue pixel doesn't produce any noticeable sharpness variances, red and green pixels do a tiny bit (more so for red).


Just IMO from having some projectors off by 2+ pixels.


----------



## Allforce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20231431
> 
> 
> They ask for them to be returned now....didn't at first. Leave it to people to try to take advantage!
> 
> 
> It was actually both good marketing and public relations to own up to the potential issues of the other Epson's bulbs. However the 8350 seemed to have almost nil Bulb issues in comparison, yet it too was included in the Replacement policy.
> 
> 
> I've watched this Thread become the fastest growing Thread in AVS history. No foolin'! Nothing even comes remotely close. 408,000 + views and just a few posts under 4000 replies...all in just 6 months as of today.
> 
> 
> Absolutely the vast majority of posts elaborate on the many virtues of this "Bargain of Bargains" Projector. Of course not everyone is/has been happy. But those folks almost all had other issues to blame...not the 8350.
> 
> 
> We all can only hope Epson and other PJ Mfgs will see and realize how placing such quality and feature sets at such a desirable price point can...and does encourage many "Fence Sitters" to jump down off their pointy perches "Get em one 'o dose!", and that they will keep presenting consumers with such excellent goads toward getting "The Big Picture Show" for their Homes.
> 
> 
> "Jetsons Wall-Sized TVs". We've been lusting after them ever since Leroy first turned his on.



You seem to be the defacto expert (and thread starter!) here on this PJ, can you (or anyone) comment on my questions I posted above regarding controls and placement? Here's the quoted text, I think it got lost in the discussion of the new guy's setup:


Where are the controls and how easy are they to access on the 8350? This is my first projector and I am planning on putting mine in a recessed in-wall shelf behind my seating area and underneath the stairs in my basement area. Will this allow me to use the remote at all if all that's visible from the room is the front of the projector?


----------



## n1kki6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20227054
> 
> 
> Nice setup nikki. Approximately how many inches do you think the painted screen size is?



Its right around 106"


----------



## jayn_j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20231682
> 
> 
> Where are the controls and how easy are they to access on the 8350? This is my first projector and I am planning on putting mine in a recessed in-wall shelf behind my seating area and underneath the stairs in my basement area. Will this allow me to use the remote at all if all that's visible from the room is the front of the projector?



The controls are on the top and left side of the projector. There are 2 remote sensors. One on front and one on rear. I have no problem bouncing remote signals off the screen, either from the Epson remote or from my Harmony 600 series. The controls on the unit are difficult to reach, so I never use them at all. Everything you need is on the remote.


Also, regarding the harmony. There are discrete ON and OFF codes that are part of the Harmony set, so there is no double press or toggle issues. The projector comes on when you select an activity and goes off when you press the power button. Highly recommend using it with one of these remotes.


----------



## Allforce

Ok great I use a Harmony 550 right now so good to know everything is gonna work with it. I was concerned with it being sort of boxed away with only the front accessible I might be screwed in making any sort of adjustments.


----------



## Manos777

I don't think anyone thinks, or has said that this projector, the 8350, matches the dark, inky blacks of the best Pioneer Plasmas. I should know, as I own the 7th generation Pioneer Plamsa PDP-5070, and for contrast ratio and dark blacks, there is no equal. Even the Kuro, 8th generation, with its claims of absolute black, are no better.


All anyone has ever claimed is that the 8350 produces excellent contrast ratio, and is capable of blacks that equal movie theater quality, which is good enough for most people who are looking for an entry level, affordable PJ.


I'm sure the most discerning members will notice the difference, but it won't be for most a deal breaker, particularly when you combine the other features of the projector: long bulb life, tweaks available, including lens shift, color temp (5500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 7500k and so forth), gamma adjustments, RGB, etc., sharpness (both horizontal and vertical). I could go on and on. At the end of the day, this projector rocks.


With a 1080p source with a light controlled room, or even with moderate ambient light, you will be capable of producing movie theater quality picture that is 10 foot in diagonal. This is going to blow your friends and family away. All you'll need is popcorn.


Movies cost $40 to $60 for a family of four. Stay home just one weekend a month from the multiplex (assuming you go every weekend) and you can pay off the price of this pj in 24 months with any store's same as cash program (how's that as just one example of my rationalization skills). If you need plasma quality, best of luck to you. I realize that at twice the price you can get closer to that goal, but never reach it.


Feel free.


----------



## Manos777

Art's Calibration Settings:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Art's Calibration Settings:
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php



I do not mean to jack the op of this question, but now that I have played around with my pj and it's menu a bit I want to make an attempt at Art's calibration numbers. My question is when I do I know that there is the ability to save a certain number of custom settings and I plan to read the manual on how to do that. When I do, will they then appear on the list with the others (dynamic, natural, cinema etc) and can I name them?

Thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20230275
> 
> 
> Where are the controls and how easy are they to access on the 8350? This is my first projector and I am planning on putting mine in a recessed in-wall shelf behind my seating area and underneath the stairs in my basement area. Will this allow me to use the remote at all if all that's visible from the room is the front of the projector?



Everything except focus, zoom, lens shift and verticle screen alignment are adjustable with the remote.


----------



## Autobahn1988

After filtering thru all the posts and reviewing the different issues that were brought up. I decided the Epson was the projector for me. I just purchased it today and will receive it on Monday.























The thousands of post made for some extra reading, but i believe all the available information helped me filter thru the available options out there on the market and finally decide on this projector. Thanks to all that posted pics, they were very helpful.









I also went along with the Chief mount assembly as well. I saw some very nice pics of that mount with the Epson and they looked great together.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20232740
> 
> 
> Ok great I use a Harmony 550 right now so good to know everything is gonna work with it. I was concerned with it being sort of boxed away with only the front accessible I might be screwed in making any sort of adjustments.



I have the same remote and it works fine with the 8350.

My projector is in the rear of the room and I point the remote toward the screen to turn on all other devices and the 8350 picks up the signal.


I have the 8350 turn on with an Activity and turn off with a dummy Activity that turns everything off.

Some of the menu items will need to be allocated to the 4 screen button selections.


----------



## Allforce

Awesome to hear, thanks for the first-hand report. I imagine I'm just going to sub out my TV I have set up now on the Harmony with the Epson and leave all the Activities the same with some minor tweaking.


As to the zoom, focus, lens shift etc, it's my understanding that once the projector is set in its location and all of those are adjusted to my screen size they're not something I'll be going back to adjust very often. Is this correct?


----------



## mech27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20229689
> 
> 
> I still have not seen many Vutec screens in person. Not cheap screens at all. I wonder if it was a Silverstar.



I did some more research today & found out that the screen is bright white with a gain of 1.3


----------



## HDRookie

What mount is everyone using with there 8350? Looking for low profile, my basement has 8 ft ceilings. Thanks


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20232848
> 
> 
> I don't think anyone thinks, or has said that this projector, the 8350, matches the dark, inky blacks of the best Pioneer Plasmas. I should know, as I own the 7th generation Pioneer Plamsa PDP-5070, and for contrast ratio and dark blacks, there is no equal.



My conclusion is more and more becoming black levels are overrated until something can be more of an all around performer (sharpness, motion, and blacks).


The 8350 does well for an LCD with motion, one of the better ones. It also has a vibrantly colorful image. The fact is these less costly projectors are getting closer in quality to the upper-end ones, I can attest to that having owned and having seen both kinds now.


As a matter of fact, I will be doing a shootout on Friday in the forums between the Sony vw70 (MSRP $8000) and the Mits hc4000 ($1499 MSRP).


These 2 projectors are polar opposites. The Sony has an IRIS and is less sharp, the Mits has no IRIS and is more sharp. The Sony has some of the best blacks, the Mits is very average in black levels. The Sony has some of the best color, well the Mits has pretty good color as well, but not up to the Sony.


For me this pretty much will conclude what is more important overall to myself (and this varies for different people). Is it sharpness, is it contrast, is it black levels, is it image processing, is it motion.


My feeling is I'll actually pick the DLP, but I don't know, I might miss the contrast too much of the Sony. One of them stays, the other one goes.


----------



## darealgerk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *coderguy*
Personally, even without a meter, I recommend getting the HD-DVE disk and Spears & Muncil (but at least the HD-DVE one). Calibrate against the sample faces on the disk. Another option is to compare an LCD monitor to the projector, although LCD monitor's can sometimes be farther off than a projector, these days LCD monitors are getting more and more accurate or so IF you set the LCD's color temp to D65 (many LCD's have a color temp setting right in their menus!).
Absolutely. I wasn't saying not to calibrate ... Was just saying that just blindly setting things on your pj based on someone else's setup doesn't make sense. Using a disc is a great way to get things tweaked up. The WOW disc is fine too.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HDRookie* 
What mount is everyone using with there 8350? Looking for low profile, my basement has 8 ft ceilings. Thanks
Chief RPA 168 (5" without any Drop)


Projector People

Ask for Kirk Ritari: ext. 2002


----------



## HDRookie

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
Chief RPA 168 (5" without any Drop)


Projector People

Ask for Kirk Ritari: ext. 2002
Thank you very much


----------



## mech27

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
I still have not seen many Vutec screens in person. Not cheap screens at all. I wonder if it was a Silverstar.
You're right the screens are not cheap but I found it on amazon for under half the price the store wanted to sell it to me.


----------



## jayn_j

Quote:

Originally Posted by *coderguy* 
My conclusion is more and more becoming black levels are overrated until something can be more of an all around performer (sharpness, motion, and blacks).


The 8350 does well for an LCD with motion, one of the better ones. It also has a vibrantly colorful image. The fact is these less costly projectors are getting closer in quality to the upper-end ones, I can attest to that having owned and having seen both kinds now.
I agree entirely.


Folks (not coderguy - he already knows all this) black level is a lot more a function of the room and screen than the projector these days.


As an experiment, turn off the projector, then go sit in your best seat and stare at the screen. What you are seeing is the absolutel blackest black possible in your room.


Now turn the projector on and select a disconnected input. Once the "no signal" shows up, stare at the screen again. This is the best black you are going to see with this projector. Note, it is gray, not black.


OK, so why does it look blacker when you watch a movie? The answer is because your eyes have an iris built in. The Epson, and most modern projectors put out a boatload of light that makes the overall image very bright. Your eyes seeing the image as too bright, will close their iris, making the whites seem "right", but having the side effect that the blacks look blacker.


When the scene is dark, your eyes' iris opens and the blacks don't seem so black. This is where the auto-iris on the projector comes in. It will increase overall contrast and lower brightness by closing down its iris. This has the effect of lowering the light level in dark areas of the screen while maintaining the bright areas.


The point of all this is that there are so many variables and psychological factors that the specs are pretty much meaningless when it comes to black levels. The question you need to ask yourself is whether the blacks look washed out in your room, under your lighting, with your selected material.


----------



## leaningjowler

I taped 10 one hundred dollar bills around the edge of my screen not sure why but this improved the black levels for me.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20233762
> 
> 
> Awesome to hear, thanks for the first-hand report. I imagine I'm just going to sub out my TV I have set up now on the Harmony with the Epson and leave all the Activities the same with some minor tweaking.
> 
> 
> As to the zoom, focus, lens shift etc, it's my understanding that once the projector is set in its location and all of those are adjusted to my screen size they're not something I'll be going back to adjust very often. Is this correct?



Only issue you may have is with the lens shift moving.

If you use the iris function, it will most likely move down a little over several hours of viewing/usage.

Another instance the lens shift will move down is if you have large vibrations near the area of the projector.


Some have either taped the lens shift wheel after adjustment or inserted a peice of foam under the lens after adjustment.


Unfortunately, the 8350 does not have a lens shift lock.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049 


.


----------



## boucho13

Personally, I have always used a grey screen because I always have either ambient light from my windows during the day and lights on in the evening while watching the projector.


I just upgraded my old matte-grey (cheap) screen to an Elite EZframe 16:9 120" Cinegrey 1.0 gain and the results were quite dramatic. The colors look alot more brilliant than before, and the blacks are still black.


I had ordered a couple screen samples and I personally wasn't happy with the white screen material because I could not get the black levels I wanted (which I need for getting killed on Black Ops), although the colors were a little bit brighter than with the grey.


So, my amateur opinion is that if you'd like the best of both worlds you might want to consider the cinegrey screens as they are a very light grey color and still give excellent color reproduction.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boucho13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally, I have always used a grey screen because I always have either ambient light from my windows during the day and lights on in the evening while watching the projector.
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my old matte-grey (cheap) screen to an Elite EZframe 16:9 120" Cinegrey 1.0 gain and the results were quite dramatic. The colors look alot more brilliant than before, and the blacks are still black.
> 
> 
> I had ordered a couple screen samples and I personally wasn't happy with the white screen material because I could not get the black levels I wanted (which I need for getting killed on Black Ops), although the colors were a little bit brighter than with the grey.
> 
> 
> So, my amateur opinion is that if you'd like the best of both worlds you might want to consider the cinegrey screens as they are a very light grey color and still give excellent color reproduction.



I know this is personal preference, but in my experience and a few others I know who have an 8350, gray screens are usually not a preferred option. Gray does have advantages in rooms with light, however the Epson projectors are some of the brighter ones out there, and almost wash out the need for gray. The only thing you are doing is dampening some of your color in exchange for a more saturated blackish gray. I would not recommend grey for this projector. It will still look good either way, but it is not necessary with the epsons lumen output.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is personal preference, but in my experience and a few others I know who have an 8350, gray screens are usually not a preferred option. Gray does have advantages in rooms with light, however the Epson projectors are some of the brighter ones out there, and almost wash out the need for gray. The only thing you are doing is dampening some of your color in exchange for a more saturated blackish gray. I would not recommend grey for this projector. It will still look good either way, but it is not necessary with the epsons lumen output.



Grey not gray.... Not sure why my iPhone changed it to the wrong spelling!


----------



## boucho13

Yeah, I realize that there is a little sacrifice on the color content, but the difference in the blacks was enough for me to stay with a grey screen after comparing the white screen sample I received.


If there is anyone here in the Hampton Roads area of Virginia I would like to see some comparisons on larger than "envelope size" samples because if the difference is significant enough I could order the Cinewhite screen for the frame I just purchased.


----------



## Patrick McGuire

For those with mediocre to poor convergence, there may be some help. If you are shelf mounting or table mounting either in front of or behind seating, convergence may be helped by moving projector off center.


My convergence was so bad that I returned it to the local BB and got a replacement that was worse than the first. Returned that one and got back my original.


I tried moving the projector to the right and left of screen center to reduce green fringing on vertical edges such as sides of letters. Green fringing was on the right of vertical, moving the projector to the left about a foot corrected about 90% of the fringing. Geometry error was reduced to negligible by turning the projector left to right until the optimal position was found. Lens shift then moves the image into postion.


Since I have mine sitting on a sofa table behind my sofa, I can't move it much up or down, so horizontal line convergence can't be changed much. I did reduce slightly the tiny bit of hoizontal mis-convergence by raising the unit up about six inches.


Now that my convergence is near perfect, I am very impressed with the bright colorful image this projector produces even in Eco/Cinema mode.


A bit disappointed with the iris as the the brightness changes in bright scenes can be quite abrupt and noticeable. Seems that it overshoots and then corrects. That said, the 8350 has such good native contrast, it is almost not necessary and can be turned off. I do leave it on though and try not to look for the effect. I've gone through entire movies and not noticed it.


Overall, the 8350 is an amazing bargain.


----------



## gsmollin

I have read a lot of complaints about convergence. I suppose my 8350 is no better, and would get returned. Its convergence is perfect on the left side of the screen, out horizontally 1 pixel in the center and out 2 pixels on the right side. Vertical convergence is perfect everywhere. I still can't see it if I am over 4 feet away, and I sit 12 feet away. Horizontal lens shift is centered. Vertical lens shift is dropped 1/2 screen from the ceiling.


I can say this PJ would never be good enough for a boardroom. In there we use a Sanyo 1080p single-chip DLP light cannon (PDG-DHT100L), and it has perfect convergence. Single lines are just that. In fact, only the lens limits the performance, and that costs more than the whole Epson PJ! Great as the Sanyo PJ is, with its .95 inch DMD and 6500 lumens, for my HT I like my Epson. I really can't see the mis-convergence unless I'm up at the screen, but I can see the rich colors and fine contrast everywhere.


----------



## BKSRU

Hi!

Probably it will interest (Program FI):

SVP is a free real-time frame interpolation software based on motion compensation that can handle videos without any restrictions.

Version 3.0 brings GPU acceleration support (using OpenCL API) for any modern GPU hardware.
http://www.svp-team.com/wiki/Main_Page 


Now 8350 is closer to 8700







.


----------



## jmoakk

Could some of you guys with shelf/wall mounted projectors post a few pictures? I would love to see them to get a few ideas on how to mount mine.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20239490
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Probably it will interest (Program FI):
> 
> SVP is a free real-time frame interpolation software based on motion compensation that can handle videos without any restrictions.
> 
> Version 3.0 brings GPU acceleration support (using OpenCL API) for any modern GPU hardware.
> http://www.svp-team.com/wiki/Main_Page
> 
> 
> Now 8350 is closer to 8700
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Hi

i have tried simular before with not much success as result was too smooth and artificial

will look forward to trying this later

do you have an English wiki?


----------



## jmoakk

My projector arrives today, can't wait to see what it looks like. quick question though, does using the lens shift affect quality?


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20242142
> 
> 
> My projector arrives today, can't wait to see what it looks like. quick question though, does using the lens shift affect quality?



only if used to extreme


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20242157
> 
> 
> only if used to extreme



Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I might wall or shelf mount the projector above my seating area. If I want to mount the projector perfectly center from the screen, I would have to mount it around 4.75ft from the ground. That seemed like it might be too low for my liking. So if I mount it any higher I would have to use the lens shift. I just wanted to know what to expect before using it.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I might wall or shelf mount the projector above my seating area. If I want to mount the projector perfectly center from the screen, I would have to mount it around 4.75ft from the ground. That seemed like it might be too low for my liking. So if I mount it any higher I would have to use the lens shift. I just wanted to know what to expect before using it.



Mine is mounted to a shelf that is built in to the ceiling and I am using a small amount of vertical shift. Does not seem to affect picture quality, but does tend to "slip" a bit every now and again.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20241895
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> i have tried simular before with not much success as result was too smooth and artificial
> 
> will look forward to trying this later
> 
> do you have an English wiki?



Excuse, badly I speak in English. I hope me understand.

I am not developer SmoothVideo Project (SVP). The project develops for a long time, but the official site is based recently.

Unfortunately, there is no English wiki. But at a forum willingly will answer questions. The translator will help http://www.translate.ru/Default.aspx/Default.aspx .

Smoothness degree is regulated.

With each release quality improves.

Last version uses OpenCL API. That has allowed to reduce loading to the processor.

Comprehension and accustoming occurs quickly







.


The basic discussion was here http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=60:2285 .


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20241726
> 
> 
> Could some of you guys with shelf/wall mounted projectors post a few pictures? I would love to see them to get a few ideas on how to mount mine.



This is the one most are using and it goes for around $25 at Amazon.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t#post19988371 



.


----------



## FendersRule

Someone should really take some high-def pictures (some really high quality ones that show off the projector's image). They'd be the first on the internet.


----------



## Hawkson

Can someone comment on the Usability of the 8350 for a


120" WIDE projection from 14.5' away. White walls, no ambient light, dark furniture and floors. For 16:9 and 2.35 usage


Will the 8350 be able to fill the screen?


Thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FendersRule* /forum/post/20244918
> 
> 
> Someone should really take some high-def pictures (some really high quality ones that show off the projector's image). They'd be the first on the internet.



Not HD but does provide some good info and comparison.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr1lvVUW83U 



.


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawkson* /forum/post/20245238
> 
> 
> Can someone comment on the Usability of the 8350 for a
> 
> 
> 120" WIDE projection from 14.5' away. White walls, no ambient light, dark furniture and floors. For 16:9 and 2.35 usage
> 
> 
> Will the 8350 be able to fill the screen?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes, the 8350 will fill a 120" 16:9 screen with as little as 11' 9" of throw and 120" 2.35:1 screen with a minimum throw of 12' 5" . You can get this with the screen calculator on projectorcentral.com.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm 


You will be fine with a white wall. I am using mine on just an off grey wall(no special paint) at 110" and its awesome.


----------



## Kris Soete

Hi all, I have some questions.


Considering I mainly want to enjoy HD movies (blu-ray) in my living room that has white walls and a white ceiling, which would give me the best picture (at night with the lights turned off), the Mits HC4000 or the Epson 8350?


Is the action of the dynamic Iris on the 8350 very noticeable or only from time to time? Does it make the image flicker I mean?


Would any of those PJ's be a serious step up from my Infocus IN76?


Would the slightly more expensive BENQ W6000 be a better choice for my conditions than the HC4000 or the Epson 8350? (I hear it has issues regarding the dynamic iris and fan noise-level. The PJ would be ceiling-mounted above my seating position.


And finally:


I haven't been keeping up with the evolution in PJ's for about 4 years now. Has picture quality from LCD caught up with that of DLP and have both now got that 'pop-crisp 3D' effect now or is there still a difference. My guess would be that LCD still has a more 'electronic' feel to it compared to the smooth filmlike DLP image.


Please help me decide what to buy. HC4000 / Epson 8350 or W6000.


----------



## ravenlocke

Well, I have had this projector for two months now and just wanted to give some more feedback. I have 232 hours on the bulb now and have experienced no dust blob issues, no lens shift drift and my convergence is still dead on. The picture is phenomenal and I am very very satisfied with my purchase. I am throwing ten foot to a 100 inch Favi electric screen matte white with 1.4 gain. My friends are always blown away and the general consensus is that it looks like a 100 inch plasma hanging on the wall. With the total peace of mind with the Epson 2 year warranty that even covers the bulb, I highly recommend this projector.


----------



## viper98912

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* 
Well, I have had this projector for two months now and just wanted to give some more feedback. I have 232 hours on the bulb now and have experienced no dust blob issues, no lens shift drift and my convergence is still dead on. The picture is phenomenal and I am very very satisfied with my purchase. I am throwing ten foot to a 100 inch Favi electric screen matte white with 1.4 gain. My friends are always blown away and the general consensus is that it looks like a 100 inch plasma hanging on the wall. With the total peace of mind with the Epson 2 year warranty that even covers the bulb, I highly recommend this projector.








Please comment on your thoughts about the Favi electric screen?


----------



## ravenlocke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *viper98912* 
Please comment on your thoughts about the Favi electric screen?
The screen is just awesome. I have it mounted over my balcony door, so it looks like a valence until I lower it. It comes with both an RF remote and a infrared remote and I have my universal harmony remote programmed to control it automatically. The motor is very quiet and smooth in operation and I have had no signs of waving or other abberations. The screen material itself is very thick and gives a great saturated picture that is significantly better then shining the projector on my white walls. With the 1.4 gain combined with my blackout curtains, I can watch tv or movies during the day no problem. Amazon ships this thing two day shipping via ups no problem and the price is a steal. I was hesitant buying such an inexpensive electric screen, but the glowing reviews comparing it favorably with 800 dollar screens convinced me to give it a try and I am glad I did.


----------



## Manos777

Here are some shots using an old Canon PowerShot A95, 5.0 Megapixel taken in middle of the afternoon, so some ambient light through sides of drapes.


That's an 80 inch, Elite Screen, roll up.


By the way, that's a DVD, not a Blu Ray disc.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have had this projector for two months now and just wanted to give some more feedback. I have 232 hours on the bulb now and have experienced no dust blob issues, no lens shift drift and my convergence is still dead on. The picture is phenomenal and I am very very satisfied with my purchase. I am throwing ten foot to a 100 inch Favi electric screen matte white with 1.4 gain. My friends are always blown away and the general consensus is that it looks like a 100 inch plasma hanging on the wall. With the total peace of mind with the Epson 2 year warranty that even covers the bulb, I highly recommend this projector.



Nice to hear some good news for a change


----------



## Hawkson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/20246069
> 
> 
> Yes, the 8350 will fill a 120" 16:9 screen with as little as 11' 9" of throw and 120" 2.35:1 screen with a minimum throw of 12' 5" . You can get this with the screen calculator on projectorcentral.com.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm
> 
> 
> You will be fine with a white wall. I am using mine on just an off grey wall(no special paint) at 110" and its awesome.




I"d like to know about the projectors ability to throw a bright, substantial image with diagonals of 137(16:9) and 130 (2.35). On the projector calculator on 1.0 gain screen, it says its not bright enough.


----------



## lcann25

66 hours on the PJ - still smells new when it runs, and a very pronounced green blob is now showing up on the bottom right of the screen. Time to call Epson I guess. I may think of selling this thing once it gets fixed, this is obviously a huge problem and it will only be covered for 2 years. Well $1300 for 2 years is not very good IMO. Shoulda got a DLP...


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Anyone who wants darker/deeper blacks may want to run in ECO mode instead of Normal.

It's not a dramatic difference but helps.


It makes the fan quieter as well, not that it's loud in the first place but now during a complete slient passage, I hear virtually nothing/complete silence.


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawkson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I"d like to know about the projectors ability to throw a bright, substantial image with diagonals of 137(16:9) and 130 (2.35). On the projector calculator on 1.0 gain screen, it says its not bright enough.



I think that it is personally. I have had mine at 126" and was fine IMO. If you are worried about brightness I don't know what you can do better with a 1080p projector under 3k dollars. I havnt kept up with all the projectors but this was the brightest in the 1080p market under 3k when I was looking. Maybe someone here can point one out.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20253762
> 
> 
> Anyone who wants darker/deeper blacks may want to run in ECO mode instead of Normal.
> 
> It's not a dramatic difference but helps.
> 
> 
> It makes the fan quieter as well, not that it's loud in the first place but now during a complete slient passage, I hear virtually nothing/complete silence.



Eco mode seems to darken the brightest parts of the image, thereby making them closer to the darkest parts, which in turn makes them seem less black. To me the darkest segments of the image look blacker when the PJ is in normal mode, particularly when in a light controlled environment.


----------



## ERuiz

Ordered today my Epson 8350 from PP!!!!! Should be getting it sometime around Thursday. =)


----------



## lcann25

Epson customer service seems top notch, they are overnighting me another one out, we'll see how #2 goes. If same dust blob issue arises, I may have #3 for sale new in box.


----------



## WithAlligators

OK guys, I'm setting one of these up for my father. For my own, I went with a fixed DIY, but in his setup, it needs to be able to retract, so DIY is sort of out. I would have loved to get a cheap tab tensioned screen and paint it, but couldn't find such a thing. I am worried that a non tab tensioned screen will sag eventually, and need to be replaced. Is this pretty much always the case?

Also, I tape together some newspaper roll ends to see how big we could go, and 150" looks surprisingly great even on the thin paper. So it seems like we're going to go that big.

With these considerations in mind, I'm looking at the Elite Cinetension Cinegrey 2 150" 16:9. Anyone have any better suggestions? Is there such a thing as a tab tensioned manual pull down, or a regular manual with a proven history of not sagging?

Does anyone have any DIY solutions (MMan? I know you've got some devious schemes, any of them applicable) ?


To summarize, I need:


no sagging

150"

probably grey to boost contrast at that size

gain?


Cheers,

Alex

a little update, I have about 260 hours on this since the beginning of november and while I do have slight convergence issues and a light blue line on the right side, I have no dust blobs. I do have the red in the corners but it has pretty much stayed the same since I watched it fade in at around 10 hours.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20255979
> 
> 
> Eco mode seems to darken the brightest parts of the image, thereby making them closer to the darkest parts, which in turn makes them seem less black. To me the darkest segments of the image look blacker when the PJ is in normal mode, particularly when in a light controlled environment.



If you want to see the difference in your deepest blacks try this.


Project a movie so the blackbars are displayed top/bottom.

Now, look at them in Normal mode. (Average black)

Switch to ECO. (Better blacks)

Now enable your iris. (Best blacks)


The dynamic iris will give you the best blacks but it's speed is slow. I hear no noise on mine.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* 
If you want to see the difference in your deepest blacks try this.


Project a movie so the blackbars are displayed top/bottom.

Now, look at them in Normal mode. (Average black)

Switch to ECO. (Better blacks)

Now enable your iris. (Best blacks)


The dynamic iris will give you the best blacks but it's speed is slow. I hear no noise on mine.
Thanks for these suggestions, I will try this out. In the past whenever I've tried ECO mode, it does darken the black bars, but it also darkens everything else, so the lightest parts, total white, is dimished, thereby reducing the contrast ratio. That said, I will experiment with your suggested settings and get back to you.


----------



## Retro-Marus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for these suggestions, I will try this out. In the past whenever I've tried ECO mode, it does darken the black bars, but it also darkens everything else, so the lightest parts, total white, is dimished, thereby reducing the contrast ratio. That said, I will experiment with your suggested settings and get back to you.



Hmmm... I also use Eco-mode and I sometimes have the feeling that especially bright daylight-scenes are SO bright it almost hurts my eyes. I am using the Epson in an absolut dark cinema-room with dark walls and ceiling, so maybe things will look differently in a slightly lit livingroom.


Regards,

Markus


----------



## milton2

Hi,

I'm also a proud owner of the 8350 since last weekend. I noticed one odd behavior: I have connected the projector to my PC as the only source. When I play a movie in fullscreen and afterwards open a browser with a lot of white (like the google homepage), I see heavy image disturbances lasting about half a second during the next 10-20 seconds or so. Looks like the picture is breaking down. I thought it might be heat issue due to the image switching from mostly dark to mostly light. However setting the projector to high altitude mode did not affect the problem.


The behavior is very reproducible, on the other hand it is always fine after a short while and does not bother me too much. I am just wondering whether my unit is faulty and should be exchanged or whether this is normal.


Cheers,


Milton


P.S. Resolution is always 1920x1080 and does not change, Eco Mode, Cinema or Vx colors.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *milton2* /forum/post/20261384
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm also a proud owner of the 8350 since last weekend. I noticed one odd behavior: I have connected the projector to my PC as the only source. When I play a movie in fullscreen and afterwards open a browser with a lot of white (like the google homepage), I see heavy image disturbances lasting about half a second during the next 10-20 seconds or so. Looks like the picture is breaking down. I thought it might be heat issue due to the image switching from mostly dark to mostly light. However setting the projector to high altitude mode did not affect the problem.
> 
> 
> The behavior is very reproducible, on the other hand it is always fine after a short while and does not bother me too much. I am just wondering whether my unit is faulty and should be exchanged or whether this is normal.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Milton
> 
> 
> P.S. Resolution is always 1920x1080 and does not change, Eco Mode, Cinema or Vx colors.



I'm seeing exactly this behaviour also. I don't think it was present when I was connected to the projector via my Yamaha receiver, but is with my high end Onkyo. I thought it might be the HDMI cables, but it's not that either, because I can reproduce it using an HDMI to 2xcat6 balun for the long run. I seem to recall not getting this problem when connected directly to my HTPC, but that's something I'll have to experiment with. I've just bought a DVI Doctor from Monoprice to see if it could help. Unfortunately, it DOES bug me a ton, since it's not just web pages that cause this; even the media organisation and playback program I use does this. Video playback is flawless though.


Perhaps we should report this to Epson and see if they can come up with a fix. The issue was brought up once before in this thread, I believe.


----------



## newfmp3

I just got my 3rd replacement.


Recap. First one had slight convergence issue, blacks were not consistent , meaning when shooting a black screen, lower left corner was darker then top right. Fan whisper quiet even on normal, iris not loud per say but I could hear it.


Second one, convergence was worse again, horizontal good, vertical bad bad. and fan was loud.


Was going to just keep the first one at this point but a very very faint round baseball sized dust blob started to appear at 55 hrs.


3rd one. Horizontal conver. Is perfect, vertical is off enough to bother me for sure. Fan is whisper quiet, blacks a little more consistent, and iris is quiet.


Conclusion, I am sorry but after 3 pj's ,all new, these things have a definite quality issue to the point where I am going to say I do not recommend them to anyone. I wish I could get my money back . I will not repeat this again as to not derail the thread, but this has been my experience.


Even if I did continue this replacement game until I got a good one with decent convergence how long before that one gets a dust blob, or the bulb dies premature?


----------



## Santi8

248 hours and I have had nothing but praise for this projector, until today.

I turn on my projector and on the lower left part of a black screen, a baseball sized green dust blob!

No bueno!


----------



## BKSRU

Hi!

Cleaning occupies a floor hour.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20176615


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/20235191
> 
> 
> I taped 10 one hundred dollar bills around the edge of my screen not sure why but this improved the black levels for me.



Oh wow, you could totally sell that for $100 each, maybe call it "money border". I'd be a buyer for sure. Ok joking aside, i'd like to post an update.

I've had my 8350 since December 14th 2010, and i now have 358 hours on the lamp, and every day when i turn it on, it never fails me. I have slight convergence issues but i doubt anyone has "perfect" convergence, other than that there is nothing going wrong with my epson so far. The settings i use are Living room/eco with default settings 75% of the time and theater mode/normal 25% of the time. I have had to use dynamic mode a few times for various reasons but i don't use it enough for it to matter. Now the weird thing is that I'm in a room that is very dusty, very hot and the intake vent is 3 inches from the wall. I try my best to keep the room cool and free of dust, but it's just not possible where the projector is. Now this has got me wondering, did i get an absolutely perfect model







? You guys that have had problems, what kind of conditions are your projectors under? And where did you order from?


----------



## BKSRU

In a projector can be factory plastic parts (plastic dust).

After the first cleaning, as a rule, the dust doesn't appear.

Or it is rare.


----------



## FendersRule

I must peace out from this thread.


I bought the 8700UB over the 8350 for its better colors, warrantee, and largely superior black levels.


Thanks for the pictures and help. The 8350 is still a rockin entry level projector though. But once you've seen the 8700UB...


Cheers!


----------



## Hagopian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20263998
> 
> 
> In a projector can be factory plastic parts (plastic dust).
> 
> After the first cleaning, as a rule, the dust doesn't appear.
> 
> Or it is rare.



BKSRU,


Thank you for the pictures, are they more pictures? I am about to attempt to clean mine as well, but I am still nervous. I am very technical, and comfortable with electronics and tools. Would you say it's easy? If done carefully? How did you actually remove the dust blob from the panel itself?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/20263984
> 
> 
> Oh wow, you could totally sell that for $100 each, maybe call it "money border". I'd be a buyer for sure. Ok joking aside, i'd like to post an update.
> 
> I've had my 8350 since December 14th 2010, and i now have 358 hours on the lamp, and every day when i turn it on, it never fails me. I have slight convergence issues but i doubt anyone has "perfect" convergence, other than that there is nothing going wrong with my epson so far. The settings i use are Living room/eco with default settings 75% of the time and theater mode/normal 25% of the time. I have had to use dynamic mode a few times for various reasons but i don't use it enough for it to matter. Now the weird thing is that I'm in a room that is very dusty, very hot and the intake vent is 3 inches from the wall. I try my best to keep the room cool and free of dust, but it's just not possible where the projector is. Now this has got me wondering, did i get an absolutely perfect model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? You guys that have had problems, what kind of conditions are your projectors under? And where did you order from?




Ok, I'll bite


PJ is 13" down from ceiling, with nothing else around it being in the center of the ceiling


New home, no dust outsdie of normal dust but the woman is anal about cleaning and we both have alergies to dust so it's pretty clean.


I even taped the ports on the back of the unit, and had the lens shift buttons done as well but admittedly not the entire time.


I am curious if the dust infected PJ's are all ceiling mounted


----------



## jpolachak

I have only cleaned mine 3 times and i have 875 hours on mine. It is on a table and I have had no issues.


----------



## lcann25

Just received my "new" unit in a refurbished box, promptly wired it up and what did I find?, another larger green blob in a different location. I wonder what epson will say when I call them and let them know I now have 2 defective units sitting here.


----------



## BKSRU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hagopian* 
BKSRU,


Thank you for the pictures, are they more pictures? I am about to attempt to clean mine as well, but I am still nervous. I am very technical, and comfortable with electronics and tools. Would you say it's easy? If done carefully? How did you actually remove the dust blob from the panel itself?
EPSON 8700 doesn't belong to me. But I talked to the owner. Used compressed air (mouth)







.

In a projector it is a lot of dust from factory (plastic). To clean, if it is possible (compressed air).


It isn't difficult. To unscrew some screws







. Will occupy time of 30-60 minutes.

It is necessary: Patience, Accuracy, Screwdriver







.

I expect delivery EPSON 8350 of US. No sense to drag back on trifles







.


----------



## Smidget

I should be receiving my screen and projector today! WOO!! Too bad the rear shelf/50 ft HDMI/etc. won't be here until Saturday










Quick question: Just in case issues crop up or I eventually want to upgrade and change to a DLP I want to put my rear shelf in a good location for _any_ type of projector. It will be straight on from the screen so I won't be using any horizontal shift. Is it possible to put the shelf in a decent spot where a DLP might be able to be subbed out for this projector or should I not worry about it and just put the shelf in a more aesthetically pleasing spot for my 8350?


I'm excited either way!!! Come on UPS/FedEx/USPS with all of the goodies that'll make my HT come together...


----------



## ERuiz

My 8350 should be delivered today along with a Spears and Munsil BD calibration disc!  Good times!


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Smidget* 
I should be receiving my screen and projector today! WOO!! Too bad the rear shelf/50 ft HDMI/etc. won't be here until Saturday










Quick question: Just in case issues crop up or I eventually want to upgrade and change to a DLP I want to put my rear shelf in a good location for _any_ type of projector. It will be straight on from the screen so I won't be using any horizontal shift. Is it possible to put the shelf in a decent spot where a DLP might be able to be subbed out for this projector or should I not worry about it and just put the shelf in a more aesthetically pleasing spot for my 8350?


I'm excited either way!!! Come on UPS/FedEx/USPS with all of the goodies that'll make my HT come together...
Pretty much impossible to predict where to put the shelf to. Especially since we know nothing about your room (or do we as I never looked at your previous posts)


I've pretty much accepted that whatever I buy, I need to put it where it belongs or don't buy it.


DLP without lens shift is a [email protected]#$ to get right in some rooms.


----------



## Smidget

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
Pretty much impossible to predict where to put the shelf to. Especially since we know nothing about your room (or do we as I never looked at your previous posts)


I've pretty much accepted that whatever I buy, I need to put it where it belongs or don't buy it.


DLP without lens shift is a [email protected]#$ to get right in some rooms.
Then I won't worry about it. I auditioned the 8350 and it worked perfectly from the spot by holding it up to a measured area of where the screen goes, so I'll just hope my next projector has the same abilities










Thanks for the response! Out for delivery!...


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102* /forum/post/20263984
> 
> 
> Oh wow, you could totally sell that for $100 each, maybe call it "money border". I'd be a buyer for sure. Ok joking aside, i'd like to post an update.
> 
> I've had my 8350 since December 14th 2010, and i now have 358 hours on the lamp, and every day when i turn it on, it never fails me. I have slight convergence issues but i doubt anyone has "perfect" convergence, other than that there is nothing going wrong with my epson so far. The settings i use are Living room/eco with default settings 75% of the time and theater mode/normal 25% of the time. I have had to use dynamic mode a few times for various reasons but i don't use it enough for it to matter. Now the weird thing is that I'm in a room that is very dusty, very hot and the intake vent is 3 inches from the wall. I try my best to keep the room cool and free of dust, but it's just not possible where the projector is. Now this has got me wondering, did i get an absolutely perfect model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? You guys that have had problems, what kind of conditions are your projectors under? And where did you order from?



The 100 dollar thing is for anyone that is moaning about the black levels. If the black levels aren't good enough for your taste go spend double or triple. There is always something better out their if you want to spend more. For the money I don't think this projector can be beat. I sent one back also and it took 4 tries to get it right. Quality control may be lacking but Epson will next day air a projector to you until its right.


As far as the dust blob I got on my original I am in a basement ceiling mounted. I don't think my room is that dusty and I got one after 4-6 months. Might be better to just try and clean it out if that is possible haven't tried myself so I can't verify for sure.


----------



## Manos777

Achieving pure black during the darkest scenes is over rated. For me, so long as the picture achieves pure black during scenes featuring well lit items and multicolored items, then I am more than happy. Even the very best plasmas, LCDs, and movie theaters, including all digital IMAX presentations start to look dark grey when the screen goes all dark (compare to the darkness around the screen when the lights are off).


This machine produces deep blacks that are close enough to match my Pioneer Plasma to satisfy my needs and when you add in the fact that you can get an 80 inch to 120 inch picture in crystal clear 1080p, you will never look back and thank yourself for buying this machine. Even regular DVDs look amazing.


My family is thrilled and yours will be too.


----------



## jmoakk

So my projector was suppose to arrive last Thursday but showed up when I wasn't able to be home in order to sign for it. So I decided to do will call for that same night. I get to the UPS facility and wait around for 45 minutes before they tell me I have to come back the next day for my projector. I had a small windows after work to pick it up. I hauled ass over there and obtained my projector 15 minutes before I would have had to come back the next day.


Fast forward to sat morning I go to ikea and pick out a shelf. Turns out they don't have the wall mount rod in stock and won't have them in until the next day. I had to go back again the following day










Sunday night I order a screen, it was suppose to come yesterday but never showed. Turns out they lost it and had to send a replacement. The replacement should arrive today.


I did fire up the projector and watched it for a little bit. It looks great and I can't wait to see it on a screen. The picture size alone is awesome. Once I turned it off it made my 54in plasma look so tiny.


----------



## ERuiz

My pj has arrived! Went home for lunch and was able to open it. That thing is huge! Man, sounded like my wife. Hahaha


BTW, what size are the mounting screws?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20271096
> 
> 
> Achieving pure black during the darkest scenes is over rated. For me, so long as the picture achieves pure black during scenes featuring well lit items and multicolored items, then I am more than happy. Even the very best plasmas, LCDs, and movie theaters, including all digital IMAX presentations start to look dark grey when the screen goes all dark (compare to the darkness around the screen when the lights are off).
> 
> 
> This machine produces deep blacks that are close enough to match my Pioneer Plasma to satisfy my needs and when you add in the fact that you can get an 80 inch to 120 inch picture in crystal clear 1080p, you will never look back and thank yourself for buying this machine. Even regular DVDs look amazing.
> 
> 
> My family is thrilled and yours will be too.



Your Pioneer PLasma should be LEAPS better then this or 90+% of most PJ's out there. I know you are excited about a new toy and all, and I was the same way on day one. But after three of these things, even my oldest Panny plasma looks better, beit blacks or colors or contrast/pop, and I have a bat cave with controlled lighting, and have tried 4 different screen materials now. Sit and watch it for a while, then go back to the plasma, you'll see.


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20272081
> 
> 
> Your Pioneer PLasma should be LEAPS better then this or 90+% of most PJ's out there. I know you are excited about a new toy and all, and I was the same way on day one. But after three of these things, even my oldest Panny plasma looks better, beit blacks or colors or contrast/pop, and I have a bat cave with controlled lighting, and have tried 4 different screen materials now. Sit and watch it for a while, then go back to the plasma, you'll see.



TV is so dead to me.... If I could I would watch a projector all the time. I have a 50" and the only viewing it gets is casual tv and some sports. All movies and gaming are on the projector 100% of the time.


----------



## mech27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20272081
> 
> 
> Your Pioneer PLasma should be LEAPS better then this or 90+% of most PJ's out there. I know you are excited about a new toy and all, and I was the same way on day one. But after three of these things, even my oldest Panny plasma looks better, beit blacks or colors or contrast/pop, and I have a bat cave with controlled lighting, and have tried 4 different screen materials now. Sit and watch it for a while, then go back to the plasma, you'll see.



At first I thought I was just excited about the possibility of getting a new toy so I went back & it still looks like a 110" plasma. I got home looked @ my 50" plasma & the 8350 looked just as good. Now I just have to convince the wife that this is a needed investment


----------



## FendersRule




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/20270349
> 
> 
> The 100 dollar thing is for anyone that is moaning about the black levels. If the black levels aren't good enough for your taste go spend double or triple. There is always something better out their if you want to spend more. For the money I don't think this projector can be beat. I sent one back also and it took 4 tries to get it right. Quality control may be lacking but Epson will next day air a projector to you until its right.



Totally, but you sound very defensive about the 8350. It's a great projector, but the 8700UB is $800 more (with a free $300 bulb), making it realistically $500 more, which is far from "double or triple" the amount. The difference between their black levels (contrast is really important) are staggering, and the 8700UB has more accurate colors. I think it has an extended warrantee, too.


Both are great projectors, but don't "settle" that what you've said is completely true.


----------



## lcann25

#3 is on it's way to me, will post with the findings.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At first I thought I was just excited about the possibility of getting a new toy so I went back & it still looks like a 110" plasma. I got home looked @ my 50" plasma & the 8350 looked just as good. Now I just have to convince the wife that this is a needed investment



Well, personally I think it looks like a giant LCD, as plasma looks better


----------



## redfox102

I cursed myself when i said my projector had no problems yesterday... Today i turned it on and it had a "dust blob" about 3 inches across in the top right corner







I believe I'll stop bragging now... Anyway, does anyone know how i could fix it? And if i call epson how am i supposed to describe the problem? Saying its a green dust blob sounds so stupid.


----------



## BKSRU

We write a complaint letter: spots on the screen. Themselves define: dust it or not.

If there is no warranty or purchased from you (US), prefer to clean themselves. It's faster.


----------



## mech27

I had a problem with my wife's Vizio & their customer service rep asked me to take a picture with my camera phone & email it to them I was surprised but might as well use the tools that's available to us; so try that


----------



## jtdman

Wow I have held off for the past 9 months hoping some of the QC issues would have been resolved. Maybe I should just wait for the next version to come out.


----------



## lcann25

redfox102 just call them and tell them there is a 3" spot on your screen, they'll have you unplug your source and see if it's still there, when you say yes it is they will overnight ship you out a shiny new refurbished one, hopefully your "new" one doesn't show up with a dust blob like mine did.


Honestly everyone, I think Epson has a huge problem on their hands with this unit, Seems like almost every day someone new on this forum is experiencing these dust blobs. Funny thing is, the 8700UB forum doesn't seem to have anywhere near these issues, and I think the filter system on the two is similar, so what is different?


----------



## WithAlligators

Howdy folks,

So no one seemed to have any opinion on my screen question so we purchased a cheapo 150" Elite manual pulldown. It was 220 with shipping so if it's poo I'll just take it or sell it. I'll post pics after the install. So next, a ceiling mount. What's a good middle of the road universal mount? I know about the chief mount, which looks great but seems like a little overkill. And the monoprice piece is nice and cheap but maybe a little too much so. I'm looking for something between those. About 40-50 ducks would be great. Cheers,

Alex


----------



## lcann25

Quote:

Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* 
I know about the chief mount, which looks great but seems like a little overkill. And the monoprice piece is nice and cheap but maybe a little too much so. I'm looking for something between those. About 40-50 ducks would be great. Cheers,

Alex
I've had the monoprice mount, not worth the trouble. Have not tried the chief because I like you thought, too expensive. I tried the Mountdirect NPL. I live in Canada and it was $78 shipped. It is strong, fully adjustable, comes with EVERY screw ever needed to mount every projector on the planet, and uses 1.5" NPT plumbing pipe for a drop tube so you can buy any length you want and paint it black, the only cons I see is that the quick release system is a bit of a PITA and you WILL need 2 people for this with the 8350. and the mounting arms are not the greatest and it is slightly wobbly once hung up if you give the PJ a shake. I would say though, for the money, it's a great mount. Want better? spend the $$$ on the chief.


----------



## ERuiz

Mounted my 8350 last night and initial thoughts? WOW! This pj looked awesome with out of the box settings. We watched Tangled and it really felt like being at the movies. Image looked sharp, colors were vibrant and overall it felt like we were at the theaters. I can't wait to get home this afternoon and pop in the Spears and Munsil calibration disc and start setting this puppy up.


Speaking of which, should I set my pj's settings with Art's and use that as a base or should I just jump in with the Spears and Munsil using ththe default factory settings?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcann25* /forum/post/20274322
> 
> 
> redfox102 just call them and tell them there is a 3" spot on your screen, they'll have you unplug your source and see if it's still there, when you say yes it is they will overnight ship you out a shiny new refurbished one, hopefully your "new" one doesn't show up with a dust blob like mine did.
> 
> 
> Honestly everyone, I think Epson has a huge problem on their hands with this unit, Seems like almost every day someone new on this forum is experiencing these dust blobs. Funny thing is, the 8700UB forum doesn't seem to have anywhere near these issues, and I think the filter system on the two is similar, so what is different?



Are they assembled in the same factory?


From reading the reports, it seems it not that external dust is making it into the LCD panels but left over debris from assembly is making it's way on to the LCD panel from some form of motion be it from shipping or movement from where the projector is located.


It might be a specific peice of the projector that has some loose edges/over formed on the casing that falls off later.


Epson may want to start looking closely at their plastic parts.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WithAlligators* /forum/post/20274510
> 
> 
> Howdy folks,
> 
> So no one seemed to have any opinion on my screen question so we purchased a cheapo 150" Elite manual pulldown. It was 220 with shipping so if it's poo I'll just take it or sell it. I'll post pics after the install. So next, a ceiling mount. What's a good middle of the road universal mount? I know about the chief mount, which looks great but seems like a little overkill. And the monoprice piece is nice and cheap but maybe a little too much so. I'm looking for something between those. About 40-50 ducks would be great. Cheers,
> 
> Alex



I can't recommend a cheap mount, and I don't consider the Chief overkill. I have used a Chief for about 5 years, and I wouldn't want anything less. It's nice to be able to make fine adjustments, and have them stay put after removing the PJ and putting it back. The rigidity is also pretty good, which you will find important if somebody is walking on the floor above the PJ mount.


----------



## gsmollin

Does anybody know the dimensions of the LCD panels in the 8350? Thanks for your reply.


----------



## jmoakk

What color mode and color temp is everyone using? I can't seem to find a mode that I like just yet. The blacks are not all that dark and the color doesn't pop. Cinema mode seems to have the best blacks but its very dim and dull. I popped in DVE hoping it just needed some adjustments but using the test material results in moving the default settings only a notch or two. So there isnt much of a change from the out of box settings.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What color mode and color temp is everyone using? I can't seem to find a mode that I like just yet. The blacks are not all that dark and the color doesn't pop. Cinema mode seems to have the best blacks but its very dim and dull. I popped in DVE hoping it just needed some adjustments but using the test material results in moving the default settings only a notch or two. So there isnt much of a change from the out of box settings.



Dim and dull? Is this the 8350 you are talking about? Dust blobs, maybe. Convergence issues, likely... Dim, not so much! Cinema with 7500 for me... How much light is in your room? Based on your dim and dull description I'm assuming there's quite a bit of light. Also what are you projecting onto?


----------



## Allforce

I should have pulled the trigger on this unit 3 weeks ago, Amazon now has them in stock "In 1 to 2 months"


----------



## FendersRule




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20277294
> 
> 
> I should have pulled the trigger on this unit 3 weeks ago, Amazon now has them in stock "In 1 to 2 months"



VisualApex. Or check AVS store.


----------



## Allforce

Yeah I know it's available other places, but always for way more. I think Amazon had it at 1,089.99 a few weeks ago, and today it's 1139.99.


I also only really purchase anything from Amazon anymore, just a personal preference after having issues with other online retailers.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dim and dull? Is this the 8350 you are talking about? Dust blobs, maybe. Convergence issues, likely... Dim, not so much! Cinema with 7500 for me... How much light is in your room? Based on your dim and dull description I'm assuming there's quite a bit of light. Also what are you projecting onto?



A 92in elite sable frame. This was last night in complete darkness. Maybe my eyes just need to adjust a little to the picture. I didn't get to play much with it so I'm sure ill find some settings to my liking. It just right away I noticed the blues and reds where not as colorful as my plasma and lcd. I understand that they might never be but I wanted to make sure I get somewhat close.


----------



## lcann25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/20277421
> 
> 
> A 92in elite sable frame. This was last night in complete darkness. Maybe my eyes just need to adjust a little to the picture. I didn't get to play much with it so I'm sure ill find some settings to my liking. It just right away I noticed the blues and reds where not as colorful as my plasma and lcd. I understand that they might never be but I wanted to make sure I get somewhat close.




Try living room mode, crank the brightness down to -7, contrast down to -1, and turn color saturation up to +3 or more if you want richer colors. Keep the temp at the default 9300 and in advanced menu, put gama at 2.3, Lamp Eco, and Iris off(personal preference because it annoys me) See how that grabs ya.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcann25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Try living room mode, crank the brightness down to -7, contrast down to -1, and turn color saturation up to +3 or more if you want richer colors. Keep the temp at the default 9300 and in advanced menu, put gama at 2.3, Lamp Eco, and Iris off(personal preference because it annoys me) See how that grabs ya.



Thanks ill give it a shot


----------



## MangaSpawn64

Jesus.... reading a couple pages on this thread and seeing pics makes me doubt my "holding on for a 8700UB" idea and go for a 8350










Would be upgrading from a PLV-Z5. Quite tired of the low lumen output and would like something brighter


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MangaSpawn64* /forum/post/20278591
> 
> 
> Jesus.... reading a couple pages on this thread and seeing pics makes me doubt my "holding on for a 8700UB" idea and go for a 8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be upgrading from a PLV-Z5. Quite tired of the low lumen output and would like something brighter



Manga, I would HIGHLY recommend it. =) The price difference can be used for other goodies such as perhaps upgrading your sound system if necessary or other things.


----------



## newfmp3

Just watched narnia 3 on it tonight on my replacement unit, looked pretty darn good even to me


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dim and dull? Is this the 8350 you are talking about? Dust blobs, maybe. Convergence issues, likely... Dim, not so much! Cinema with 7500 for me... How much light is in your room? Based on your dim and dull description I'm assuming there's quite a bit of light. Also what are you projecting onto?



Either natural or cinema at 6500k. Depending on day or night.


----------



## Bdex75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcann25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Try living room mode, crank the brightness down to -7, contrast down to -1, and turn color saturation up to +3 or more if you want richer colors. Keep the temp at the default 9300 and in advanced menu, put gama at 2.3, Lamp Eco, and Iris off(personal preference because it annoys me) See how that grabs ya.



I am going to try this. Sounds like it may work nice for my daytime viewing. At night it looks great to me, but during the day I need to play a lot to het it right. Have some ambient light to deal with.


----------



## Smidget

It's amazing. My dad and I put it up yesterday... well mostly him, but that's besides the point. Amazing. I have a tiny bit of keystoning that I might have to try to fix with my rotatable shelf mount, but otherwise looks great, filled the screen perfectly with my [email protected]$$ Elite 106" matte white... and it looks awesome. Now to watch the Magic/Bulls game today to see how it looks on sports! Also, if you couldn't tell this is my first projector...


----------



## mech27

When you get a chance take some pics & post them


----------



## SonyCrusader

I've been working on my cal, and I'm getting inconclusive results for sharpness.


I don't have a "standard candle", a pattern generator. Using a Panasonic blu-ray, all settings at "normal" it looks like I need to run -3/-3 horizontal/vertical. However, I have no idea if the output is truly accurate and I'm just compensating for the player. I'm observing multibursts and that handy pattern on the AVSHD disk with the vertical/horizontal wedges. greyscale steps, dots-on-black, itty-bitty bursts in the corners et al.


Unlike color and greyscale settings which can vary due to opto-mechanical deviation and require unit-specific cal, I feel sharpness and filtering is mostly in the signal path and more likely to be "universal."


Anybody nail a good sharpness setting using "real" tools?


Normally, I wouldn't obsess over the tiny details like this, but this unit has such good basic performance that it begs for that extra bit of finess. It can reveal all the goodness AND badness in the image... and I want that!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Smidget* /forum/post/20283513
> 
> 
> It's amazing. My dad and I put it up yesterday... well mostly him, but that's besides the point. Amazing. I have a tiny bit of keystoning that I might have to try to fix with my rotatable shelf mount, but otherwise looks great, filled the screen perfectly with my [email protected]$$ Elite 106" matte white... and it looks awesome. Now to watch the Magic/Bulls game today to see how it looks on sports! Also, if you couldn't tell this is my first projector...



Make sure the projector is level and straight on the screen.

Then use the lens shift to make adjustments.


----------



## Dealwitme




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lcann25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Try living room mode, crank the brightness down to -7, contrast down to -1, and turn color saturation up to +3 or more if you want richer colors. Keep the temp at the default 9300 and in advanced menu, put gama at 2.3, Lamp Eco, and Iris off(personal preference because it annoys me) See how that grabs ya.



Great pop with this setting


----------



## ravenlocke

I have found the best settings for pop and wow factor to be close to default settings (this thing is really dialed in out of the box!) but with my ps3 set on the following...


Bluray video output:RGB (this eliminated any red hazing I had watching movies)

Hdmi range:Full

Deep color:Auto


Projector settings for signal

Hdmi range:Full

Epson super white:Off (creates black crush when on, even with ps3 with corresponding setting on)


Deep rich blacks and saturated colors. I found that if I didn't have the settings above, things looked okay but washed out and flat in comparison.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/19730760
> 
> 
> Okay lesson in taking screen shots..
> 
> Anyone can take a zoomed shot, and make eye candy..
> 
> Lets see you zoom out showing a little more of the room and
> 
> Less zoom....
> 
> that will give a more real life to the shot.
> 
> also since this is high gain
> 
> Throw on some ambient light....
> 
> do that and post some more



Okay Fraisa you ask for pics of the 120 inch fixed Favi screen with ambient light.Here are some screen shots with ambient light pouring in through the sky light. The first one shows where the screen is in location to the sky light. Overlook the mess, my dog loves toys and shoes! lol

Side walls are all light colored and ceiling is white.












Infocus SP8602 running in low lamp mode with brightness turned down to 38. Brilliant color turned off.


Commercials



















Cleveland show










Tron Legacy










The Pacific


----------



## Smidget

Here's one pic of my set up, just tried out Toy Story 2







Of course, looks a lot better in person...


----------



## batista11b5

it look cool


----------



## hepalex

Does anyone know if this projector has HDMI control or CEC? I am trying to use a Monoprice HDMI splitter and it seems to have problems if HDMI control is on for the devices. I thought I noticed it when I first went through all of the menus in the 8350, but I don't see it now. May have been hallucinating after a long night. This is my first projector and I am really enjoying it so far. Yes, the blacks are not up there with my Kuro, but the size more than makes up for it. 60" was starting to look small and is now tiny.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hepalex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this projector has HDMI control or CEC? I am trying to use a Monoprice HDMI splitter and it seems to have problems if HDMI control is on for the devices. I thought I noticed it when I first went through all of the menus in the 8350, but I don't see it now. May have been hallucinating after a long night. This is my first projector and I am really enjoying it so far. Yes, the blacks are not up there with my Kuro, but the size more than makes up for it. 60" was starting to look small and is now tiny.



I too had a Monoprice switch and had tons of issues with it. Ended up returning it and bought myself a new receiver with built-in HDMI switching. Everything is working perfect now. As for the blacks, try switching Epson Superwhite ON. It made a world of difference in my setup.


----------



## hepalex

I thought about getting a receiver with 2 HDMI outs but my current receiver (Pioneer Elite 01) is only a year and a half old. I will have to try out the Super White option and see if it helps. I haven't had much time to mess around with the settings too much. One issue I am having is trying to get the image perfectly alligned with the screen. I have a ceiling mounted motorized drop down screen and the image was alligned perfectly along the top of the screen but the bottom was off from one side to the other by about an inch. I played around with the screen mounting and was able to get it a little better but still not perfect. I am thinking that it will be hard to get it perfect with a drop down screen because it isn't perfectly flat. Does anyone else have this issue with non-tensioned drop down screens?


----------



## Smidget




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hepalex* /forum/post/20287185
> 
> 
> I thought about getting a receiver with 2 HDMI outs but my current receiver (Pioneer Elite 01) is only a year and a half old. I will have to try out the Super White option and see if it helps. I haven't had much time to mess around with the settings too much. One issue I am having is trying to get the image perfectly alligned with the screen. I have a ceiling mounted motorized drop down screen and the image was alligned perfectly along the top of the screen but the bottom was off from one side to the other by about an inch. I played around with the screen mounting and was able to get it a little better but still not perfect. I am thinking that it will be hard to get it perfect with a drop down screen because it isn't perfectly flat. Does anyone else have this issue with non-tensioned drop down screens?



I bought this splitter from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WP2QGM 


I have my Onkyo 806 going to the splitter to my 61" LED DLP and then a 50' cable from that splitter to my shelf mounted 8350. Working perfectly for 2 days now...


I still cannot get it perfect with my non-tensioned pull down screen as well. It "bleeds" a little onto the black, but I got it pretty much as perfect as I'm going to get it and I won't let it drive me crazy and enjoy


----------



## n1kki6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20277358
> 
> 
> Yeah I know it's available other places, but always for way more. I think Amazon had it at 1,089.99 a few weeks ago, and today it's 1139.99.
> 
> 
> I also only really purchase anything from Amazon anymore, just a personal preference after having issues with other online retailers.



A little known tidbit is that best buy will actually match amazon. I haven't tried it on big ticket items but they always match blueray prices for me. I just show them the prodcut page on my phone, no questions asked. I would assume they would do this on the projector as well.


----------



## hepalex

Yeah, my alignment isn't too bad right now after messing around with it for awhile. It is not noticable at all on 2.35 movies, but I watched a 1.85 movie the other night and the very small gray bars made the difference much more noticable. I never even checked Amazon for a splitter. I just figured Monoprice was the place to go for all of this stuff. Going to call them today and get them to send me out a different splitter.


----------



## n1kki6

Here is a pic with my basement windows unconvered and the lights turned all the way up.


Still a pretty decent picture despite the ambient light.


----------



## gadget-zilla

Best Buy purchase experience


Last month, I purchased an epson 8350 from my local best buy. I few days later, I also purchased an espon 8700UB from an online retailer, Crutchfield. I wanted to compare the two for myself and decide which will work for me.


I explained to the geeky sales guy - who could have been a knucklehead selling whatever as he did not know a thing about the projector but acted like he did. I really didn't need him to tell me anything because I had already done my research but for fun, I still like to ask, just to hear what they know or what lie they say to get you to buy a product.


While he didn't know all too much about the projector, he did tell me that best buy has abolished the restocking fee and I have 30 days to try to projector since it was not on display. I must have asked him three or four times, reconfirming the return policy and the no stocking fees, and he in turn, repeatedly told me the same: 30 days, no restocking fees.


I made my purchase and returned home with it. During the next three weeks, I set up both projectors, one at a time, doing my own comparing and analysis. In the end, the epson 8700UB looked better to me, and my fiance'.


This past weekend, at day 27th, I had a HELL of a time trying to return the projector. They pointed me to their 'store policy' about 14 days only for TVs and projectors. It took a lot of talking and explaining of how I was mislead about it being 30 days etc etc.


In the end (almost an hour later), they did take it back and gave me a full refund.


Moral of the story: don't believe the best buy sales guy and regardless of what they say - doublecheck the store policy that is posted and do your own homework.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/20287809
> 
> 
> Best Buy purchase experience
> 
> 
> Last month, I purchased an epson 8350 from my local best buy. I few days later, I also purchased an espon 8700UB from an online retailer, Crutchfield. I wanted to compare the two for myself and decide which will work for me.
> 
> 
> I explained to the geeky sales guy - who could have been a knucklehead selling whatever as he did not know a thing about the projector but acted like he did. I really didn't need him to tell me anything because I had already done my research but for fun, I still like to ask, just to hear what they know or what lie they say to get you to buy a product.
> 
> 
> While he didn't know all too much about the projector, he did tell me that best buy has abolished the restocking fee and I have 30 days to try to projector since it was not on display. I must have asked him three or four times, reconfirming the return policy and the no stocking fees, and he in turn, repeatedly told me the same: 30 days, no restocking fees.
> 
> 
> I made my purchase and returned home with it. During the next three weeks, I set up both projectors, one at a time, doing my own comparing and analysis. In the end, the epson 8700UB looked better to me, and my fiance'.
> 
> 
> This past weekend, at day 27th, I had a HELL of a time trying to return the projector. They pointed me to their 'store policy' about 14 days only for TVs and projectors. It took a lot of talking and explaining of how I was mislead about it being 30 days etc etc.
> 
> 
> In the end (almost an hour later), they did take it back and gave me a full refund.
> 
> 
> Moral of the story: don't believe the best buy sales guy and regardless of what they say - doublecheck the store policy that is posted and do your own homework.



The receipt states all of their policies..been there done that.


----------



## Allforce

Yeah I won't buy any big ticket item at Best Buy no matter what, it's worth saving the sales tax alone just buying it on Amazon for almost any item.


Amazon.com actually has this listed now at like 1258.00 with shipping in 1 to 2 months!










I think I might just call Visual Apex today since they seem reputable and order from there for 1199.99 and call it a wash. Waiting around for the perfect price to hit is gonna kill me.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20288072
> 
> 
> Yeah I won't buy any big ticket item at Best Buy no matter what, it's worth saving the sales tax alone just buying it on Amazon for almost any item.
> 
> 
> Amazon.com actually has this listed now at like 1258.00 with shipping in 1 to 2 months!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might just call Visual Apex today since they seem reputable and order from there for 1199.99 and call it a wash. Waiting around for the perfect price to hit is gonna kill me.



HHgreg carries this unit. They will match most Big box stores. You may be able to talk them down on the price as well.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I won't buy any big ticket item at Best Buy no matter what, it's worth saving the sales tax alone just buying it on Amazon for almost any item.
> 
> 
> Amazon.com actually has this listed now at like 1258.00 with shipping in 1 to 2 months!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might just call Visual Apex today since they seem reputable and order from there for 1199.99 and call it a wash. Waiting around for the perfect price to hit is gonna kill me.



Have you checked www.theprojectorplace.com I bought mine last week for $1,135, free UPS Ground shipping. Ask for Reggie. Unit arrived 3 days later in PERFECT conditions. Highly recommend them.


----------



## Smidget




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/20287809
> 
> 
> Moral of the story: don't believe the best buy sales guy and regardless of what they say - doublecheck the store policy that is posted and do your own homework.



Very true. Assume everyone you see in retail is stupid. The Best Buy policy states on their website 14 days. My receipt was old and stated the restocking fee, but I made sure to bring a print out of the policy from their website if they gave me any crap after auditioning the projector for a couple of days!


----------



## Diesel1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> HHgreg carries this unit. They will match most Big box stores. You may be able to talk them down on the price as well.



I bought mine from HH Greg for 1099.00. I told them what I could get it for online and 1099.00 was his offer.


----------



## gadget-zilla

I agree 100%. The sales guy was going on and on about Best Buy eliminating the restocking fee and the "oh yeah, you got 30 days to try out this baby since we don't have it on display, you got plenty of time, blah blah blah"


By no means I'm shifting the blame to him. I should have questioned him right then and there about what he said vs what was on the receipt but I never thought to question anything he said about the policy - figured he was telling me what was the policy. I took it face value.


Best buy has a 30 day policy for about 90% of the items they sell, just a handful carry 14 days return policy. Apparently, projectors are one of those 14 day return item. Given he didn't know a whole lot about the projectors should have clued me in that he was probably from another dept and told me 30 days. In the end, they did take it back ( with some convincing)


It was a lesson learned.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20287942
> 
> 
> The receipt states all of their policies..been there done that.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
Your Pioneer PLasma should be LEAPS better then this or 90+% of most PJ's out there. I know you are excited about a new toy and all, and I was the same way on day one. But after three of these things, even my oldest Panny plasma looks better, beit blacks or colors or contrast/pop, and I have a bat cave with controlled lighting, and have tried 4 different screen materials now. Sit and watch it for a while, then go back to the plasma, you'll see.
I don't think so. Sure, I can definitely tell that the Pioneer Plasma achieves darker black in dark scenes, but it is only 2% to 3% darker. Even with zero picture on the screen, total black, compared to the piano black finish around the screen, the Pioneer plasma only gets to super dark grey.


The Epson 8350 gets to a slightly lighter super dark grey, but nothing that I personally cannot live with. Most scenes contain lots of light. The colors on this projector are super accurate and very rich. We recently watched Tangled on Blu-Ray and the colors were amazingly vivid, accurate and as close to perfect as I need to get.


Need darker blacks, feel free to invest, but don't expect me to be convinced that I have settled. The sheer size and crystal clarity of the image on my 80 inch screen is thrilling my family and me.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20290488
> 
> 
> I don't think so.
> 
> 
> The Epson 8350 gets to a slightly lighter super dark grey, but nothing that I personally cannot live with. Most scenes contain lots of light. The colors on this projector are super accurate and very rich. We recently watched Tangled on Blu-Ray and the colors were amazingly vivid, accurate and as close to perfect as I need to get.
> 
> 
> Need darker blacks, feel free to invest, but don't expect me to be convinced that I have settled. The sheer size and crystal clarity of the image on my 80 inch screen is thrilling my family and me.



Well stated.


Although I can sympathize with anyone who has a terrible run of bad luck...or even just Murphy's Law pains, waxing forth with a blanket condemnation of one of the singularly most popular and well received projectors "EVER" produced because of a personally bad experience is more than a bit myopic...it's downright vindictive.


Of course, everyone and anybody is allowed an opinion, and even more so if personal experience is included. But I gotta ask what happened since this post:



> Quote:
> 04-08-11 09:35 PM
> newfmp3 Just watched narnia 3 on it tonight on my replacement unit, looked pretty darn good even to me.



And one certainly shouldn't expect such a response after this "promise", should they?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20262765
> 
> 
> I am sorry but after 3 pj's ,all new, these things have a definite quality issue to the point where I am going to say I do not recommend them to anyone. I wish I could get my money back . I will not repeat this again as to not derail the thread, but this has been my experience.




For the record, I've held in my hands, installed, and run through their paces no fewer than 14 8350s without a single solitary issue that has been mentioned by those who have had problems.


No Banding

No noticeable Convergence issues

No Color shading at the edges.

No Frickin' Dust Blobs .....at all!

No Grinding Iris

No Bulb failures (...yet...)


Not a single reason to ever make anyone say "I wish I hadn't....". I've had pretty good luck all in all over the years, but never so much so that I have come to expect nada issues...period.


So now I've called down the Gods of Front Projection and their righteous wrath by stating I have no problems. We'll see if a Lightning Bolt from abve takes me out.










Now JVC's X3? I've waited for one for over 2 months, and then it was mistakenly shipped via FedEx Home Delivery (Ground) to Denver (...instead of 2-Day Air...)where I sit not so patiently waiting 3 extra days just so I can hang it and see the results on the 122" Silver Fire v2 4.0 Screen that awaits it's services.


I'm thinnin' I'd trade a Dust Blob or two for having to change my Flight home ($105.00 change fee...)and piddle about Denver for all the extra time just over a stewpid mistake in Shipping.


----------



## lcann25

just got #3 today, fired it up tonight, no dust blob...for now.. but the convergence is not as good as #2. Will see how long this one lasts.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20291569
> 
> 
> Well stated.
> 
> 
> Although I can sympathize with anyone who has a terrible run of bad luck...or even just Murphy's Law pains, waxing forth with a blanket condemnation of one of the singularly most popular and well received projectors "EVER" produced because of a personally bad experience is more than a bit myopic...it's downright vindictive.



I tend to agree with this, Epson's CS has gone way beyond anyone else (free lamp replacements for 2 years is unheard of). I also heard the 8700ub and 8350ub have much fewer convergence problems than the previous Epsons (6500ub being the worst?).


Several reviewers have stated that the Epson 8350ub and 8700ub had better convergence and are a little sharper than previous years. I wouldn't be suprised if Epson now has the most consistent convergence of all of manufacturers (who knows), but sometimes if you HAVE to RMA the unit, Epson has been known to send some questionably converged units back through the replacement channels (no big deal since you can just get another replacement).


That said convergence can and is an issue with ANY 3-LCD unit if you are very picky and it can be "luck of the draw", if picky then I suggest get a DLP unless you are RBE sensitive.
This is not a SPECIFIC ISSUE to EPSON, this is with ANY 3-Chip projector.


For me, I'm RBE sensitive and am a bit of a sharpness freak. Minor convergence issues and a tad bit of sharpness LOSS doesn't make THAT much difference in movies, but I am just OCD about it. Now if the Epsons are having abnormally high failures after the 2-year warranties beyond the lamp-life, then I can see people having a valid complaint, but I am guessing they shouldn't be too bad once you get a good unit. I have been unlucky though with all my purchases for some reason. Oh well, such is life, some of us have better luck than others.


I still hear comments like, what if the lamps continue to fail on Epsons after the warranty, my answer is so what, you got 2 free years anyways, the cost doesn't really make it more even if the lamps fail prematurely. Besides, there isn't really any other choices in this price range for LCD (Some Acers, the Sanyo a bit more). If you get convergence issues on a Sanyo or Panny, they will not fix or replace the projector as easily as Epson, you might be stuck. So think of it in those terms, and then Epson is one of the best choices.


If you calculate cost correctly (even if Epson lamps are not lasting 4000 hours), the Epsons are pretty much cheaper than everything else, because of the first 2-years having free lamps. As a matter of fact, the savings you get from FREE lamps is almost enough to just buy a new projector after 2 years (if your a heavy user), and if you are a light user then it won't really matter either way (since lamp cost won't factor in much). Also there are people getting over 2000 hours on the Epson lamps, so not all are going to fail sub-1000 hours, the average lamp-life of Epson designs may be A LOT shorter than some of the highest lamps, but I doubt it's any different than say JVC or Sony lamps (which are also known to fail quickly sometimes), the Epson probably even lasts a little longer. Plus, Epson lamps aren't particularly expensive compared to some projectors, and most places will sell you a lamp warranty (so you can still be covered after the 2-year Epson warranty expires).


There is no problem going with an Epson given the level of Customer Service. You are more likely to get stuck from Panasonic or Sanyo or Sony, than by Epson or Mitsubishi, both which train their employees as "the customer is always right, and when wrong you still need to give them some options". According to posters that dealt with Sanyo, Sanyo is more likely to just send BACK the PJ with a POST IT that says "within spec".


Epson sends you a different advanced replacement unit, Sanyo and Sony tries to repair it (or says within spec). Hardly a reason to complain about Epson on that basis alone.


Personally don't have any experience with Sanyo CS, but a lot of people in the forums have not been happy with Sanyo's CS, few have been unhappy with Epson or Mits (almost none). Sanyo does make a nice projector for smaller screens though, if you want to truely roll the dice with convergence and maybe get stuck with it, with the EPSON you are not stuck, you can keep returning the thing if your convergence is really OFF that much.


----------



## fedocable

Hello there. I´m having the much-reported "hard drive" noises when I turn on the Auto-iris (both normal or high speed). The thing is I cannot possibly exchange the unit (I live in Argentina and bought it abroad). So: apart from the noises, is this really a problem? Could something get damaged if I leave the Auto-iris on and just live with the noises? In such a case, why don´t just turn it off and forget about it? does it make a real difference, this auto-iris? Thanks for any advise!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello there. I´m having the much-reported "hard drive" noises when I turn on the Auto-iris (both normal or high speed). The thing is I cannot possibly exchange the unit (I live in Argentina and bought it abroad). So: apart from the noises, is this really a problem? Could something get damaged if I leave the Auto-iris on and just live with the noises? In such a case, why don´t just turn it off and forget about it? does it make a real difference, this auto-iris? Thanks for any advise!



That sound is normal.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20293086
> 
> 
> That sound is normal.



Thanks; I certainly hope it is normal. But I got worried by an expert opinion found in another thread:

"_If that grinding noise is on when you turn on your auto iris then you have a bad unit and need it replaced.

This is why you need to buy your Epson Projectors from a place that inspects your unit for you...._"

Is this the general opinion, agreed by consensus? Does the auto-iris noise mean "bad unit that needs to be replaced"?

Cheers!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks; I certainly hope it is normal. But I got worried by an expert opinion found in another thread:
> 
> "If that grinding noise is on when you turn on your auto iris then you have a bad unit and need it replaced.
> 
> This is why you need to buy your Epson Projectors from a place that inspects your unit for you...."
> 
> Is this the general opinion, agreed by consensus? Does the auto-iris noise mean "bad unit that needs to be replaced"?
> 
> Cheers!



That sound is as normal as the normal sounds coming from a hard drive. It's just one of the drawbacks of enabling it.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20291569
> 
> 
> Well stated.
> 
> 
> Although I can sympathize with anyone who has a terrible run of bad luck...or even just Murphy's Law pains, waxing forth with a blanket condemnation of one of the singularly most popular and well received projectors "EVER" produced because of a personally bad experience is more than a bit myopic...it's downright vindictive.
> 
> 
> Of course, everyone and anybody is allowed an opinion, and even more so if personal experience is included. But I gotta ask what happened since this post:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one certainly shouldn't expect such a response after this "promise", should they?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the record, I've held in my hands, installed, and run through their paces no fewer than 14 8350s without a single solitary issue that has been mentioned by those who have had problems.
> 
> 
> No Banding
> 
> No noticeable Convergence issues
> 
> No Color shading at the edges.
> 
> No Frickin' Dust Blobs .....at all!
> 
> No Grinding Iris
> 
> No Bulb failures (...yet...)
> 
> 
> Not a single reason to ever make anyone say "I wish I hadn't....". I've had pretty good luck all in all over the years, but never so much so that I have come to expect nada issues...period.
> 
> 
> So now I've called down the Gods of Front Projection and their righteous wrath by stating I have no problems. We'll see if a Lightning Bolt from abve takes me out.



Your making some brave statements here, and only begging for my response... I still stand by what I said. What are the chances that one customer gets 3 bad units, then mutilply that by the several people here that have gone through that and more. There is a quality issue here and it is obvious. Their own tech looked at the PJ I have and in his words...it was fine from 3-5 feet BACK! Make no wonder they are not catching convergence issues when some blind fella is testing convergence in that manner. And at what size is he checking it? 40" in his office? Some people just do not know how to test convergence properly.


I will not recommend this PJ to anyone based on MY experience. How else am I supposed to base my opinion? on someone else's opinion that I dont know, maybe someone on the internet? who do I pick in this thread? Yourself being someone obviously passionate about it ( Nothing wrong with that), or one of the many having issues?


So I watched one movie on my latest replacement ( not something to be proud of already) and it looked a bit better.....whoppie. It was a rather bright movie with very few dark scenes which tends to show this PJ off more. Does it mean I dismiss convergence issues, iris issues, fan issues, dust issues, lamp issues, red blotches, purple haze issues, color uniformity issues, because my latest "replacement" with zero hours on it looks pretty good watching one movie? but how long is this going to last before I make yet another call to Epson?


Bottom line - I do not support companies releasing shoddy products. Of course I'm going to base it on my experience. As for their support service? yup, friendly when you can get a hold of one, and my last replacement sits on my floor ready to ship yet again....but I have no shipping label to send it back now going on two weeks....of which I will soon be billed for. I won't repeat some of the hurdles and circles I've been through to get this far. Is their support Better then some....hell yeah, but I'd rather not have to call them at all. I do love that they tried to remedy it, I'll give them that, and the tech was an awesome guy whoever he was, but what he sent me as a "acceptable" convergence is a little scarey.


I vent my expressions here because if you believe some people here....good lord it's the best pj EVAR....yet look what happens to many of us. So if your going to take anything from this post and thread.....buyer beware. if you get a good one...congrats, you got a sweet deal of a PJ. I'm not trying to ruin the new toy of people who love it, just realize that there are some issues, like any product, but it seems this one has a few more.


----------



## ERuiz

My 8350 is working perfectly. No complaints whatsoever. For those that love to watch movies less than 3ft away from the screen and throw up their arms in disgust because convergence is off, then you should get yourself a CAD workstation quality monitor. I bet the convergence will be picture perfect. Me, I'll go enjoy my 8350 from a distance of 12.5 ft where the image is perfect for me.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20294193
> 
> 
> My 8350 is working perfectly. No complaints whatsoever. For those that love to watch movies less than 3ft away from the screen and throw up their arms in disgust because convergence is off, then you should get yourself a CAD workstation quality monitor. I bet the convergence will be picture perfect. Me, I'll go enjoy my 8350 from a distance of 12.5 ft where the image is perfect for me.



Regardless of the distance...it depends on all that you do with your projector. If you used an HTPC with it..you may see things a tad bit different.










If you can live with the slight fuzziness all 3 chip projectors have in one way or another..enjoy. Some of us can't..I wear corrective lenses, the last thing I want, is to feel like I need to update my prescription.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you can live with the slight fuzziness all 3 chip projectors have in one way or another..enjoy.



Oh trust me, I sure can and I'm definitely enjoying what my $1,135 USD pj provides. If I want better convergence, no iris noise, zero fuzziness, etc etc, I would wait till I could take out a second mortgage on the house and buy me a professional pj. And even then, there will still be small issues with it. I'm just realistic. For the price, this pj is an AWESOME DEAL. I just can't sit here and criticize a $1,135 pj because it doesn't perform like a $3,000+ pj.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20294287
> 
> 
> Oh trust me, I sure can and I'm definitely enjoying what my $1,135 USD pj provides. If I want better convergence, no iris noise, zero fuzziness, etc etc, I would wait till I could take out a second mortgage on the house and buy me a professional pj. And even then, there will still be small issues with it. I'm just realistic. For the price, this pj is an AWESOME DEAL. I just can't sit here and criticize an $1,135 pj because it doesn't perform like a $3,000+ pj.



Yes the 8350 is a nice projector for the price..no doubt about. For those of us that demand better and want more ..you got to spend more. No real way around it...once you've spent more time with your unit. Check out some of the other units on the market. You'll either feel better about your purchase or you'll be looking for an upgrade.


newfmp3 is a more experienced user so I expect him to be pickier to some degree.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20285893
> 
> 
> Okay Fraisa you ask for pics of the 120 inch fixed Favi screen with ambient light.Here are some screen shots with ambient light pouring in through the sky light. The first one shows where the screen is in location to the sky light. Overlook the mess, my dog loves toys and shoes! lol
> 
> Side walls are all light colored and ceiling is white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Infocus SP8602 running in low lamp mode with brightness turned down to 38. Brilliant color turned off.
> 
> 
> Commercials
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleveland show
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tron Legacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pacific



Thanks for remembering to post these,,,

Shots look not bad.

Anyway you can up the light in the room

Would like to see it at full light.

Here is a couple pics of how much light i mean..


----------



## knightsbridge

i realize discussing convergence problems has become a sensitive issue on here. I do still want to resubmit pics of my projector images to get your expert opinions. as a disclaimer, this is my first projector and i have been enjoying it for over a hundred hours. I have realized however that I am one to be very sensitive to image sharpness, even while watching live motion scenes, movies etc. i also tend to watch news programming and sports where on-screen graphics and lettering are used, and they seem a little fuzzy to me.


So having said that, I want to know if my perceived sharpness is basically the norm or whether it truly is due to a convergence "problem" outside the norm to the extent where exchanging the unit would possibly make me happier.



Here are a few of black txt on white.



Thanks.


----------



## knightsbridge

and a couple horiz/vert color samples



these images are as good as i could get them using a point and shoot camera.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20295421
> 
> 
> i realize discussing convergence problems has become a sensitive issue on here. I do still want to resubmit pics of my projector images to get your expert opinions. as a disclaimer, this is my first projector and i have been enjoying it for over a hundred hours. I have realized however that I am one to be very sensitive to image sharpness, even while watching live motion scenes, movies etc. i also tend to watch news programming and sports where on-screen graphics and lettering are used, and they seem a little fuzzy to me.
> 
> 
> So having said that, I want to know if my perceived sharpness is basically the norm or whether it truly is due to a convergence "problem" outside the norm to the extent where exchanging the unit would possibly make me happier.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few of black txt on white.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20295436
> 
> 
> and a couple horiz/vert color samples
> 
> 
> 
> these images are as good as i could get them using a point and shoot camera.



Can you post pics of these same images from your seating position? No zoom... Just a regular photo showing how they look as if sitting at your room's normal position.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* /forum/post/20295421
> 
> 
> i realize discussing convergence problems has become a sensitive issue on here. I do still want to resubmit pics of my projector images to get your expert opinions. as a disclaimer, this is my first projector and i have been enjoying it for over a hundred hours. I have realized however that I am one to be very sensitive to image sharpness, even while watching live motion scenes, movies etc. i also tend to watch news programming and sports where on-screen graphics and lettering are used, and they seem a little fuzzy to me.
> 
> 
> So having said that, I want to know if my perceived sharpness is basically the norm or whether it truly is due to a convergence "problem" outside the norm to the extent where exchanging the unit would possibly make me happier.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few of black txt on white.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yeah, that is bad convergence right there. There are other factors to take into account, image size, how far back are you watching from, how much lens shift you are using etc? all things that effect just how much bad convergence effects "you" heck, even how good or bad your eye sight is.


But, are you happy with it? That's the main thing, because once you get into replacements, it could get worse.


Out of the 3 I had, one of them wasn't as bad as yours, one was worse and I replaced them both. Ironically, my first one had the best convergence but it had other issues ie dust blob and color uniformity.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20295534
> 
> 
> Yeah, that is bad convergence right there. There are other factors to take into account, image size, how far back are you watching from, how much lens shift you are using etc? all things that effect just how much bad convergence effects "you" heck, even how good or bad your eye sight is.
> 
> 
> But, are you happy with it? That's the main thing, because once you get into replacements, it could get worse.
> 
> 
> Out of the 3 I had, one of them wasn't as bad as yours, one was worse and I replaced them both. Ironically, my first one had the best convergence but it had other issues ie dust blob and color uniformity.



Does lens shift affect convergence, in your opinion?


----------



## coderguy

NewFMP:

I hear you about the QC, it is annoying to get that many bad units. However, I would just keep returning it until you get a good unit.


Keep in mind that although Epson's RMA units might not have good QC, many MFR's won't do a thing if you send them a unit with bad convergence, they will refuse to even replace it. The PJ market just isn't that consumer friendly when you get unlucky and get a bad unit.


The Epson's seem to be decent quality control only on NEW units and not so good from RMA'd units. I am judging this by reviews of people that bought it new, that said every PJ can have an issue, especially these lower priced ones.


I still say though, there really aren't any other LCD options at this price other than the Sanyo or ACERS, which Sanyo has a NO REPLACEMENT policy and is hard to even get them to repair a unit according to others.


So even for us that had bad experiences with buying Epson PJ's, it's just the way the PJ business is.


That said I still believe on new units, the Epson QC is fairly good, but you still have some chance of getting a bad unit and having to RMA it (maybe it's 1 in 5, maybe 1 in 10, who knows).

Once you get that first bad unit, that seems to be where the problems start is in the RMA process itself.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Does lens shift affect convergence, in your opinion?



A lot of good folks here say extreme lens shift does. I have no reason to doubt it but with the few I have had to test, there wasn't any extremely obvious negative effect, but my pj is lined up perfectly so I never had any reason to test thoroughly. If I toss the image full left or right I can see a slight difference in convergence, but it is nothing that will ruin the pj or using lens shift. But if your convergence is already off, maybe it'll worsen, heck maybe it will correct it some, I have zero idea really.


----------



## knightsbridge

i suppose my eye is more discerning than others at home who are looking at the same image. certainly enough for it to be a distraction to me and leave me wanting. on the other hand, i have not fully committed yet to accepting the risk of an endless cycle of RMAs with epson because of the issues I'm having, unless you guys tell me that I could definitely do better with a replacement. though newfmp3's comments have given me some idea of what i could be in for.



The experience i thought people were having w epson was that they were very responsive and often had a replacement unit out in a matter of days. Is that still not the case? Also are the replacement units they're providing not brand new?



coderguy - you asked me to post pics of black text on white background. have a look at my prior post and see if it gives you a better estimation of the pixel offset between the colors. there's still some image artifact but its the best i could capture with my camera.



also fwiw, i have a moderate amount of vertical lens shift and a hair to the right.







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20295534
> 
> 
> Yeah, that is bad convergence right there. There are other factors to take into account, image size, how far back are you watching from, how much lens shift you are using etc? all things that effect just how much bad convergence effects "you" heck, even how good or bad your eye sight is.
> 
> 
> But, are you happy with it? That's the main thing, because once you get into replacements, it could get worse.
> 
> 
> Out of the 3 I had, one of them wasn't as bad as yours, one was worse and I replaced them both. Ironically, my first one had the best convergence but it had other issues ie dust blob and color uniformity.


----------



## coderguy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *knightsbridge* 
i suppose my eye is more discerning than others at home who are looking at the same image. certainly enough for it to be a distraction to me and leave me wanting.
You so need to send the unit back, your convergence is way way off. To me it looks like green is off 3+ pixels alone, and the others 1-2 pixels. We're talking convergence off over 3-4 pixels total. I doubt your replacements will be as bad as that one.


I still wonder if there is a setting in the service menu to adjust the panels by 2 pixels each way. The old panels in the Sanyo z5 (assuming panels made by Epson back then as well) did allow this on the Sanyo. It wouldn't help for a minor convergence error because it only allowed shifting it 2 pixels at a time, but it could help in more disastrous convergence like yours. I'll assume this setting is not available in the Epson service menu like it was on the old Sanyos, until someone posts otherwise.


I wonder how hard it would be to take a projector apart and physically align the panels ourselves, guessing pretty hard (maybe impossible), never looked into it though or how it could be done.


--------

Added

--------

Some preliminary googling on panel alignment shows that the panels are quite a scientifically complex thing. Looks like it's aligned during the MFR process and not afterwards, meaning it's a one-shot alignment chance they get, which might explain the bad alignment.


You could always take a hammer and start hammering near the panels to see if some vibration can wiggle them in the right direction (only kidding - dont do it, lol).


----------



## Joesyah

I'll see what I can come up with Fraisa. I don't have can style lights in my place. The pics may have given a false sense of the room being dark. I took these pics right after the one of the skylight. There was plenty of light in the room around 7:45 p.m. EST. Look at the time of the clock on the wall and the first screen photo with the pizza. It's roughly within minutes apart. That sky light is 8 feet wide and 10 feet long.


I'll just wait till its dark and turn some artificial lights on in the room.


----------



## newfmp3

it seems to me though that if Epson had a service menu to adjust pixels by 1 or two, they'd save a fortune on replacements. Then eliminate their dust issues and it would be a no brainer which projectors to get if you are going LCD.


As for fixing the panels ourselves, I'm doubting it's as easy as a few screws. Quite a few pixels there to line up and if manufacturers aren't getting it right with diagnostic tools, my hands and eyes aren't going to do it for sure. I have a Electronic Eng background, but I would not attempt it.


----------



## fraisa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Joesyah* 
I'll see what I can come up with Fraisa. I don't have can style lights in my place. The pics may have given a false sense of the room being dark. I took these pics right after the one of the skylight. There was plenty of light in the room around 7:45 p.m. EST. Look at the time of the clock on the wall and the first screen photo with the pizza. It's roughly within minutes apart. That sky light is 8 feet wide and 10 feet long.


I'll just wait till its dark and turn some artificial lights on in the room.
Also try to change you color modes on your camera

I had this problem when i first started taking day time shots.


Where the shot appeared darker than the what was in the room regarding to ambient light.

Taking ambient light screen shots is harder than it looks, and at least that is what i have found.

My goal in taking the shot is to get the same amount of light that is in the room on my shot and then also get color and skin tones to match in the camera to the screen...


----------



## BearDownBish2010

Just ordered an 8350 from amazon marketplace this is my first projector. Planning on getting the onkyo 509 receiver, hsu or orb audio speakers to go around it, any screen recommendations are welcome want to go with a tab tension pulldown. Use will be for movies, ps3, and streaming video. Any thoughts.


----------



## Allforce

Monoprice.com. They just put out a huge line of new screens, pull-downs and motorized, fixed and multi-format.


Just need to see what shipping costs are like...


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/20297606
> 
> 
> Also try to change you color modes on your camera
> 
> I had this problem when i first started taking day time shots.
> 
> 
> Where the shot appeared darker than the what was in the room regarding to ambient light.
> 
> Taking ambient light screen shots is harder than it looks, and at least that is what i have found.
> 
> My goal in taking the shot is to get the same amount of light that is in the room on my shot and then also get color and skin tones to match in the camera to the screen...



What I'll do is take the pics while standing under the skylight. Maybe this will give you a better idea of how the screen does with ambient light.


----------



## cmunro

The first thing I noticed was the grinding iris sound REALLY LOUD!!!. I owned the unit for 2 days and returned it to BB.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/20300217
> 
> 
> The first thing I noticed was the grinding iris sound REALLY LOUD!!!. I owned the unit for 2 days and returned it to BB.



Not sure of your seating from the projector but I hear nothing from the iris in normal or fast mode. My projector sits about 6 feet away above my head.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20301529
> 
> 
> Not sure of your seating from the projector but I hear nothing from the iris in normal or fast mode. My projector sits about 6 feet away above my head.



As it seems, some units have noisy auto-iris, and some units are more silent. Mine is noisy, so I just leave that function off. I wouldn´t call that a flaw, nor send back the pj just because of that, as long as it works fine.


----------



## hepalex

Is anyone here using a Harmony (Logitech) remote to control their 8350 and using the discrete ON/OFF power commands? Mine doesn't seem to want to power off when leaving the activity with the discrete OFF command. I want to avoid using the power toggle if possible. Do I need to send two power off commands? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Robert2011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cmunro* /forum/post/20300217
> 
> 
> The first thing I noticed was the grinding iris sound REALLY LOUD!!!. I owned the unit for 2 days and returned it to BB.



Our projector is around 4 feet from our heads, and the only time I hear the iris is if my sound system is muted, but you're not the first one to complain about the iris. I wonder if that was a defective unit, or some people are just more sensitive to it?


----------



## Smidget

Does anyone have a link to a good lens cleaner for this unit? Also since I do have dogs and dust, would a once a month cleaning of the filter be a good idea? Just want to know what to do to keep this baby running!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hepalex* /forum/post/20303077
> 
> 
> Is anyone here using a Harmony (Logitech) remote to control their 8350 and using the discrete ON/OFF power commands? Mine doesn't seem to want to power off when leaving the activity with the discrete OFF command. I want to avoid using the power toggle if possible. Do I need to send two power off commands? Any help would be appreciated.



I use an Activity to turn my Projector On/Off with my 550 and no confirmation appears but I believe you can disable the Off confirmation on the projector in one of the menu options.


----------



## hepalex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20303356
> 
> 
> I use an Activity to turn my Projector On/Off with my 550 and no confirmation appears but I believe you can disable the Off confirmation on the projector in one of the menu options.



I do believe I disabled the OFF confirmation message. Not sure though. I will mess around with it when I get home. I adjusted the settings here at work and will update the remote tonight. I was just wandering why the discrete OFF command didn't work.


----------



## cmunro

It sounded bound up. I also could not get a reliable signal through the receiver/splitter to the unit,when I reinstalled my Sanyo-plvZ60 it worked fine I screwed around with that for 2 hours or more and finally threw in the towel. I'm sure it's a good projector all of these raving reviews could not be wrong.I really wanted to like this unit but in the end it's what my child said that summed it all up "Daddy I liked your old projector better".


----------



## luclin999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gadget-zilla* /forum/post/20287809
> 
> 
> Best Buy purchase experience
> 
> 
> Last month, I purchased an epson 8350 from my local best buy. I few days later, I also purchased an espon 8700UB from an online retailer, Crutchfield. I wanted to compare the two for myself and decide which will work for me.
> 
> 
> I explained to the geeky sales guy - who could have been a knucklehead selling whatever as he did not know a thing about the projector but acted like he did. I really didn't need him to tell me anything because I had already done my research but for fun, I still like to ask, just to hear what they know or what lie they say to get you to buy a product.
> 
> 
> While he didn't know all too much about the projector, he did tell me that best buy has abolished the restocking fee and I have 30 days to try to projector since it was not on display. I must have asked him three or four times, reconfirming the return policy and the no stocking fees, and he in turn, repeatedly told me the same: 30 days, no restocking fees.
> 
> 
> I made my purchase and returned home with it. During the next three weeks, I set up both projectors, one at a time, doing my own comparing and analysis. In the end, the epson 8700UB looked better to me, and my fiance'.
> 
> 
> This past weekend, at day 27th, I had a HELL of a time trying to return the projector. They pointed me to their 'store policy' about 14 days only for TVs and projectors. It took a lot of talking and explaining of how I was mislead about it being 30 days etc etc.
> 
> 
> In the end (almost an hour later), they did take it back and gave me a full refund.
> 
> 
> Moral of the story: don't believe the best buy sales guy and regardless of what they say - doublecheck the store policy that is posted and do your own homework.



Recently I have taken to using the voice recorder feature on my Iphone when speaking to salespeople for expensive purchases.


It essentially eliminates the potential "No one ever said that to you" problems that may crop up later down the road such as you had with your return.


----------



## Allforce

I'm cracking up here imagining Consumer Advocate™ Luclin999 on the scene shoving his iPhone in some poor kid's face at Best Buy. "CAN I GET AN OFFICIAL COMMENT ON THAT PRICE MATCHING POLICY SIR?"


----------



## luclin999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20305227
> 
> 
> I'm cracking up here imagining Consumer Advocate Luclin999 on the scene shoving his iPhone in some poor kid's face at Best Buy. "CAN I GET AN OFFICIAL COMMENT ON THAT PRICE MATCHING POLICY SIR?"



Not at all.


I just turn it on and leave it in my shirt pocket.


Records the entire conversation with no trouble at all.


If a salesperson lies or "misrepresents" the facts about an item then I have it all recorded which tends to minimize issues later on.


Hard to claim that I wasn't told something when I have the proof that I was in the palm of my hand.


----------



## Allforce

I really didn't think you did that, it was hyperbole.


----------



## luclin999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20305411
> 
> 
> I really didn't think you did that, it was hyperbole.



Unfortunately, with the limited training the salespeople have in these stores actions like this are about the only recourse available to protect yourself with against accidental or deliberate misrepresentation of the product or the store's policies.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luclin999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not at all.
> 
> 
> I just turn it on and leave it in my shirt pocket.
> 
> 
> Records the entire conversation with no trouble at all.
> 
> 
> If a salesperson lies or "misrepresents" the facts about an item then I have it all recorded which tends to minimize issues later on.
> 
> 
> Hard to claim that I wasn't told something when I have the proof that I was in the palm of my hand.



I am fairly sure it's illegal to record someone unless you get their permission first...I understand where you are coming from though!


----------



## luclin999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20306381
> 
> 
> I am fairly sure it's illegal to record someone unless you get their permission first...I understand where you are coming from though!





Recording what a person says in a public place is perfectly legal as there is no expectation of privacy on the part of the individual in such a location. The only caveat would be if the owners of the public location had specifically posted clear instructions that no recordings were to be made there.


Doing so in a private location is another thing altogether and the legality there is entirely dependent upon the location, ownership of the location and other circumstances.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luclin999* /forum/post/20306418
> 
> 
> Recording what a person says in a public place is perfectly legal as there is no expectation of privacy on the part of the individual in such a location. The only caveat would be if the owners of the public location had specifically posted clear instructions that no recordings were to be made there.
> 
> 
> Doing so in a private location is another thing altogether and the legality there is entirely dependent upon the location, ownership of the location and other circumstances.



Who Cares.

Lets get the talk back to the projector.......


----------



## viper98912

I'm surprised no one mentioned that Amazon has it back in stock, albeit higher than their last advertised price


----------



## Allforce

Yep I saw that, I think I'm just going to wait til my construction is complete before I go buying the thing, I'm sure another month or so isn't going to hurt and its not like they're out of stock all over the place.


----------



## cbeck23

Working on getting my 1st projector, I held off to pay down some bills first. This unit came out in Oct '09. I should be able to get the 8350 in about a month.


My question: Should I wait (if I can last that long) until Oct for the next version? It seems each year the product has made decent improvements.


----------



## BKSRU

Hi!

Convergence to check up easier: the white text on a black background (For example - Nokia Test).

Bad convergence (Nokia Test 1):
 

Widespread situation: The red has left, almost, on pixel. Green, dark blue have given a bluish shade.


Good convergence (Nokia Test 2):


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *BKSRU*
Hi!

Convergence to check up easier: the white text on a black background (For example - Nokia Test).

Bad convergence (Nokia Test 1):


Widespread situation: The red has left, almost, on pixel. Green, dark blue have given a bluish shade.


Good convergence (Nokia Test 2):
Do you sit this close to the screen?


----------



## ravenlocke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Do you sit this close to the screen?
Bad convergence rears its ugly head at seating distance with less sharpness and pop to the overall picture. Some people actually like to know if they have good convergence or not, so what exactly is your point?


----------



## BKSRU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Do you sit this close to the screen?
Both photos from EPSON 8350.

From a distance of viewing anything terrible doesn't occur







.

Convergence action is expressed:

- Softer picture

- Less soft picture

If the spectator isn't spoiled, for it it won't have value.


P.S. I wait delivery of the EPSON 8350.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ravenlocke*
Bad convergence rears its ugly head at seating distance with less sharpness and pop to the overall picture. Some people actually like to know if they have good convergence or not, so what exactly is your point?
My point is that unless convergence is off by 2+ pixels, it's not really a problem unless the person is up close within a feet or two from the screen. Seems like some people want CAD quality sharpness out of a $1200, 1080p projector. Sorry if I hurt your feelings.


----------



## BKSRU

For comparison.

Convergence EPSON 8100 (old model).
 

In spite of the fact that convergence excellent, the image less sharp.

Chromatic Aberrations soften a picture.


At EPSON 8350 more accurate picture. Chromatic Aberrations aren't expressed.

As result: Above contrast and is more than details in shades.

At us it is many mark (Russian forum).


----------



## BKSRU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
... convergence is off by 2+ pixels...
Such doesn't happen. Maximum of 1 pixel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
... Seems like some people want CAD quality sharpness out of a $1200, 1080p projector...
And it would be not bad







. It is sometimes possible.


----------



## ravenlocke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz*
My point is that unless convergence is off by 2+ pixels, it's not really a problem unless the person is up close within a feet or two from the screen. Seems like some people want CAD quality sharpness out of a $1200, 1080p projector. Sorry if I hurt your feelings.
My feelings are fine. You just seemed to be summarily dismissing his very good comparison of good versus bad convergence because you personally have lower standards for what is acceptable.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ravenlocke*
...because you personally have lower standards for what is acceptable.
More like realistic standards. I can't expect a Corolla to handle like a Corvette.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20308180
> 
> 
> More like realistic standards. I can't expect a Corolla to handle like a Corvette.



At Corolla good repeatability of parameters







.

Unfortunately, that you will not tell about EPSON.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20307945
> 
> 
> My point is that unless convergence is off by 2+ pixels, it's not really a problem unless the person is up close within a feet or two from the screen. Seems like some people want CAD quality sharpness out of a $1200, 1080p projector. Sorry if I hurt your feelings.



You can easily get CAD sharpness for $1200..just buy a single chip projector. Oh I forgot..you dismissed them because you had issues with a $600 projector.









The Pro8100 is considered razor sharp for LCD FYI.


I have to agree with Ravenlocke..your standards for video quality aren't very high.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can easily get CAD sharpness for $1200..just buy a single chip projector. Oh I forgot..you dismissed them because you had issues with a $600 projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pro8100 is considered razor sharp for LCD FYI.
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Ravenlocke..your standards for video quality aren't very high.



I had issues with RBE, not sharpness. Sorry if I hurt your feelings as well.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20310340
> 
> 
> I had issues with RBE, not sharpness. Sorry if I hurt your feelings as well.



I don't own one of these and if I did..my feelings wouldn't hurt at all..I am amused though..very funny.










If you had cool points..you lost them long ago. lol

No one will take your comments about image quality serious..since you really have no standards.

You might as well un-focus your projector get a bag of popcorn and enjoy!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20310456
> 
> 
> I don't own one of these...



LOL







This made my day.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20310456
> 
> 
> If you had cool points..you lost them long ago. lol



I'm not here to win a popularity contest, so I could care less if you find me cool or not.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20310456
> 
> 
> No one will take your comments about image quality serious..since you really have no standards.



But we should take yours seriously even though you don't own one?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20310456
> 
> 
> You might as well un-focus your projector get a bag of popcorn and enjoy!



I guess your cool points just went up, huh? LOL Have a great weekend!


----------



## Joesyah

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
LOL







This made my day.




I'm not here to win a popularity contest, so I could care less if you find me cool or not.


But we should take yours seriously even though you don't own one?




I guess your cool points just went up, huh? LOL Have a great weekend!
Just because I don't own the Epson doesn't mean I don't have experience with it. lol

I installed one in a persons home not long ago.

Yeah you have a great weekend as well. Glad you got a laugh..I've been laughing at your post for days now.


----------



## orcasupreme

Hey guys, I've had my eye on this projector pretty much since day 1. I'm looking to buy my first projector, and this one seems to fit my needs perfectly. The one thing that has me nervous about pulling the trigger is the reports of dust blobs. I've got 2 dogs, a cat, and 2 little kids, so keeping my "theater room" as pristine as a level-5 clean room ain't happening. Would a portable air filter, like the Brookstone air cleaner, be able to do a decent job protecting the Epson (assuming the dust blobs are from the home environment, and not from factory particles)? Or would that just be a waste of money/effort?


On a side note, I'd like to know who's got the movie rights to this thread. It is EPIC at this point! It has everything: I laughed...I cried...it was much better than Cats! I'd pay to see it again and again...


-- Dave


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *orcasupreme*
Hey guys, I've had my eye on this projector pretty much since day 1. I'm looking to buy my first projector, and this one seems to fit my needs perfectly. The one thing that has me nervous about pulling the trigger is the reports of dust blobs. I've got 2 dogs, a cat, and 2 little kids, so keeping my "theater room" as pristine as a level-5 clean room ain't happening. Would a portable air filter, like the Brookstone air cleaner, be able to do a decent job protecting the Epson (assuming the dust blobs are from the home environment, and not from factory particles)? Or would that just be a waste of money/effort?


On a side note, I'd like to know who's got the movie rights to this thread. It is EPIC at this point! It has everything: I laughed...I cried...it was much better than Cats! I'd pay to see it again and again...


-- Dave
I've got about 50 hours on mine and no dust blobs so far. I have two Shih Tzus who are always around the HT and everything good so far.


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *orcasupreme* /forum/post/20312841
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I've had my eye on this projector pretty much since day 1. I'm looking to buy my first projector, and this one seems to fit my needs perfectly. The one thing that has me nervous about pulling the trigger is the reports of dust blobs. I've got 2 dogs, a cat, and 2 little kids, so keeping my "theater room" as pristine as a level-5 clean room ain't happening. Would a portable air filter, like the Brookstone air cleaner, be able to do a decent job protecting the Epson (assuming the dust blobs are from the home environment, and not from factory particles)? Or would that just be a waste of money/effort?
> 
> 
> On a side note, I'd like to know who's got the movie rights to this thread. It is EPIC at this point! It has everything: I laughed...I cried...it was much better than Cats! I'd pay to see it again and again...
> 
> 
> -- Dave



This is my third pj. The first two a Benq PE7700 DLP had a dust blob after a 1 1/2 years ( 700 hrs ? ). So DLP's get dust blobs. The second Mit. HC4900 LCD got dust blobs at 450 hrs. and another 650. Sent both in for cleaning under warranties.


My 8350 has about 410 hrs. no dust blobs yet. And I have a house cat.


mark


----------



## fedocable

Hi there. I´ve bought my pj a week ago, and used it for some 12 hours at most. And today, while making some calibration tests, I´ve discovered a very slight yellowing at the bottom lines -very pale and very thin, almost imperceptible for the moment. I did some web research and found mixed answers. The worst possibility is that one of the polarizers is going out, in which case the yellowing should keep on growing in size and intensity. That would be odd, since this happens after quite a while of using the pj, and mine is brand new. That would be a tragedy, since I cannot exchange the unit -I live in a galaxy far far away. The other answer I found, the gentle one, states that the polarizers of Epson pjs usually need a couple hundreds of hours to "stabilise" -kind of a "break in". What can you tell me about it? Should I need to worry? Much obliged for any answer.

PS: High Resolution increases paranoia, doesn´t it?


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20310244
> 
> 
> You can easily get CAD sharpness for $1200..just buy a single chip projector. Oh I forgot..you dismissed them because you had issues with a $600 projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Pro8100 is considered razor sharp for LCD FYI.*
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Ravenlocke..your standards for video quality aren't very high.



Yep. I have a Pro8100 in my room and right above it is a single chip DLP. The Pro8100 looks just as sharp.


----------



## James1005

Anyone have their calibration settings they like to share, got the 8350 need to calibrate it, I have it set on Natural, is that what most people use, basically my room has no light coming into it. Thanks


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20313797
> 
> 
> Hi there. I´ve bought my pj a week ago, and used it for some 12 hours at most. And today, while making some calibration tests, I´ve discovered a very slight yellowing at the bottom lines -very pale and very thin, almost imperceptible for the moment. I did some web research and found mixed answers. The worst possibility is that one of the polarizers is going out, in which case the yellowing should keep on growing in size and intensity. That would be odd, since this happens after quite a while of using the pj, and mine is brand new. That would be a tragedy, since I cannot exchange the unit -I live in a galaxy far far away. The other answer I found, the gentle one, states that the polarizers of Epson pjs usually need a couple hundreds of hours to "stabilise" -kind of a "break in". What can you tell me about it? Should I need to worry? Much obliged for any answer.
> 
> PS: High Resolution increases paranoia, doesn´t it?



Probably dust.

But there was a similar problem: Look attentively at a lens. The slice of an adhesive tape from packing has probably stuck. It was like a scratch.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *James1005* /forum/post/20314683
> 
> 
> Anyone have their calibration settings they like to share, got the 8350 need to calibrate it, I have it set on Natural, is that what most people use, basically my room has no light coming into it. Thanks



I would start from Cinema, and then use some calibration disk. You can save many different profiles, in case you haven´t noticed.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *James1005* /forum/post/20314683
> 
> 
> Anyone have their calibration settings they like to share, got the 8350 need to calibrate it, I have it set on Natural, is that what most people use, basically my room has no light coming into it. Thanks



Start with this and tweak as needed to your taste.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


.


----------



## meepha12

Can anyone tell me what is needed to buy to mod the monoprice universal mount (mbr-1 up to 22lbs), so that i can mount it to my ceiling this evening. I know someone mentioned spider extensions, but i noticed even the screws that came with the mount dont fit into the correct holes, thanks =]


----------



## James1005




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20314775
> 
> 
> I would start from Cinema, and then use some calibration disk. You can save many different profiles, in case you haven´t noticed.



Thanks


----------



## James1005




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20314785
> 
> 
> Start with this and tweak as needed to your taste.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php
> 
> 
> .



Thanks I will play around with the different settings


----------



## James1005




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *meepha12* /forum/post/20314794
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me what is needed to buy to mod the monoprice universal mount (mbr-1 up to 22lbs), so that i can mount it to my ceiling this evening. I know someone mentioned spider extensions, but i noticed even the screws that came with the mount dont fit into the correct holes, thanks =]



Don't know if this would work, but saw it on thier website if this is the mount you are talking about


http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 



http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## jfried

I'm done with this thread. With all the griping about imperfect convergence, iris noise, etc. on an economy PJ, there seems to be no help to be had here for legitimate problems / questions. Have fun sending your PJ's back and forth to Epson, I'm watching a lot of movies these days on my crappy 8350, and really enjoying the picture. Bye,


John F


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm done with this thread. With all the griping about imperfect convergence, iris noise, etc. on an economy PJ, there seems to be no help to be had here for legitimate problems / questions. Have fun sending your PJ's back and forth to Epson, I'm watching a lot of movies these days on my crappy 8350, and really enjoying the picture. Bye,
> 
> 
> John F



I agree with you 100%.


----------



## dysfunction26




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/20315882
> 
> 
> I'm done with this thread. With all the griping about imperfect convergence, iris noise, etc. on an economy PJ, there seems to be no help to be had here for legitimate problems / questions. Have fun sending your PJ's back and forth to Epson, I'm watching a lot of movies these days on my crappy 8350, and really enjoying the picture. Bye,
> 
> 
> John F



It is funny you come here to whine about people whining...lol.


----------



## joeags

*Steps onto soapbox*


You have to understand, this thread is 140 pages long (in my view at least), and there are 10-20 pages at a time with complaints about this or that. It's not the concerns that are the problem, it's the trashing of the projector that takes place immediately after it comes up. First it was about the bulb - would it be having the issues like the 8100. Then came the iris issues. Then came the dust blobs. Pages and pages of complaints about that. And now there's the convergence talk.


I think a lot of people feel the same way as jfried. Just think about it - it's an entry-level 1080p projector, albeit one with very solid performance, but I think people who upgraded to this expected a lot more based on the reviews of this projector and the early opinions on it. There's a few users obviously very disappointed with this projector, and coming from a previous one that they liked, it's understandable.


I, on the other hand, have never seen a projector used, other than a business class projector. I'm in Canada, and had one delivered to my Texas house, and was instantly amazed at the image. Well, actually the first thing that struck me was the size of the thing! I have read this entire thread, and a dozen people have mentioned being shocked by the size... well, I was ready for the size, and was still shocked!!


The house has a wide open & high wall, and we projected a 142" image on it, and were absolutely blown away. In a lot of ways it was overkill, but I just wanted to check it out! Of course, I am rolling it back to a 100" screen in my house up here, and that was a bit of a tough change to make! I know that I've heard people talk about it being as good as their plasma or lcd, and others saying that there's no way it is... well, we had the plasma on against the opposite wall, and when I looked back and forth, sure I could tell a difference. But when I was just watching the projected image, it was great to my eye. There were no problems watching hockey on the screen - the puck movement was easy to see. Pitched baseballs didn't have any strange movements either. It's probably not to the level of a higher priced projector with CFI, but it certainly has more smoothness than my ~4 year old LCD monitor. Then I started throwing movies in, expecting to watch 5 minutes each of 2 or 3 movies. My 4 year old was going to be waking me up at 6am in the morning, but at 2am, I was still throwing discs into the HD DVD player to get as much out of it was I could.


What sucks of all of this is that due to the size and weight of the projector, I couldn't bring it as a carry-on item, and I wasn't about to check it in, so I am stuck waiting for 6 more weeks until my parents bring their motorhome up here to visit and deliver the projector.


I'm sure that I'm going to have questions about the unit, so it sucks that people like jfried are stopping reading and especially that the MississippiMan's of the thread are slowing down on their responses. Sure, a lot has been touched already, and there's no problem bringing up issues or concerns, but the constant burying of this projector has been discouraging to say the least.


*Steps off soapbox*




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dysfunction26* /forum/post/20319454
> 
> 
> It is funny you come here to whine about people whining...lol.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm done with this thread. With all the griping about imperfect convergence, iris noise, etc. on an economy PJ, there seems to be no help to be had here for legitimate problems / questions. Have fun sending your PJ's back and forth to Epson, I'm watching a lot of movies these days on my crappy 8350, and really enjoying the picture. Bye,
> 
> 
> John F


----------



## BKSRU

Guys. I think you haven't correctly understood me.

I badly speak in English. Especially, to write such opuses







. I hope me will understand.

This Post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20307413 not for this purpose what to criticize EPSON 8350.

I will express the opinion about EPSON 8350:

- The best projector for the money and in the second level:

price / image quality / functionality.

- A projector of the second level. When the black ceases to irritate it with a gray shade.

- And the first in norm limits:
 

And the second within norm:
 

But, of course, I would like to receive the second. If will carry.

- If will carry. And convergence will be excellent not in which case I won't send it on replacement at dust detection. The dust doesn't disturb me. I will open and I will make cleaning.

If convergence disappoints me. I will try to correct it. I will open a projector.


Me disturbs much more strongly: a lamp operating time.


And into the account of this message http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20307413 

I wrote what to explain as easier to check up convergence if the choice is possible. Not the black text on a white background, the white text on a black background. It is better to use Nokia Test.

Also has shown as can be ideal to look convergence at EPSON 8350. Both photos from EPSON 8350.

Real values between two these variants. Also can disturb only true judges or users of this forum, but not the usual spectator







.

I hope, me understand.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/20315882
> 
> 
> I'm done with this thread. With all the griping about imperfect convergence, iris noise, etc. on an economy PJ, there seems to be no help to be had here for legitimate problems / questions. Have fun sending your PJ's back and forth to Epson, I'm watching a lot of movies these days on my crappy 8350, and really enjoying the picture. Bye,
> 
> 
> John F



+1


The convergence-whining is especially irritating. A budget 3-chip PJ does not have perfect convergence. End of line. If that is what you require, get a 1-chip DLP. Then, at least you'll be whining about the rainbows on the Mits thread. I don't understand the iris complaints, but if I could hear mine, I would turn it off, because I don't think it adds very much to the picture.


And speaking of legitimate questions that got buried by convergence posts: Does anyone know what size the LCD panels are on the 8350?


----------



## joeags

Spec sheet in the manual says they are 18mm = .74 inches wide. Nothing else noted on them.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20321552
> 
> 
> And speaking of legitimate questions that got buried by convergence posts: Does anyone know what size the LCD panels are on the 8350?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20321552
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> The convergence-whining is especially irritating. A budget 3-chip PJ does not have perfect convergence. End of line. If that is what you require, get a 1-chip DLP. Then, at least you'll be whining about the rainbows on the Mits thread. I don't understand the iris complaints, but if I could hear mine, I would turn it off, because I don't think it adds very much to the picture.
> 
> 
> And speaking of legitimate questions that got buried by convergence posts: Does anyone know what size the LCD panels are on the 8350?



everyone has an opinion, don't wanna read it, don't read it, but it's the "whining and complaining" that gets things noticed and things done about it....ie 2 yr bulb replacement warranty ( verdict is out on whether or not that still applies but still)


For myself, if I spent 1200 on a LCD or Plasma TV that looked as bad as these Epsons.....it would go back instantly, so why dismiss convergence issues on a PJ just because "you" feel it's entry level when there are plenty other "entry level" PJ's without the issue?


If Epson wants to be competitive with their product, and try to convince consumers that their product is the one to get over the rest, bad convergence is something they need to rectify. Otherwise, not much point in considering them or any LCD PJ that acts the same way. Of course some people love throwing money away, and some value every dime spent.


Some fella said it best way back. We use PJ's for different reasons. Convergence won't effect the movie only user as much as the person who uses a PC with it...as I do. But bad Convergence = softer picture, and the entire point of a HD 1080p projector is for a sharp, high def picture, and the bad ones I've seen look marginally better then a SD PJ. Now get a good one and things are different.


----------



## ERuiz

Yaaaaaaawn


----------



## luclin999

Did the previous "entry level" Epson 1080p projector, the 8100 have similar complaints about convergence issues or are these specific to the 8350?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luclin999* /forum/post/20322199
> 
> 
> Did the previous "entry level" Epson 1080p projector, the 8100 have similar complaints about convergence issues or are these specific to the 8350?


*NO* Epson PJ in their entire line up has ever been said to have perfect pixel convergence. And 1 Pixel off has "always" been a acceptable value. Perfect Convergence is a blessing....it's never a "given" at any price point.


And, it's almost hilarious that now, with a -$1300.00 PJ, one with what is reported to be the most color accurate image "out of the Box" ever, is getting so many complaints from obvious value seekers. The 8350 *IS* an exceptional value, with little recourse available as far as a comparable LCD PJ goes. So in the end, those with complaints are going to complain loudly because quite frankly....where else are they to look to for similar performance at a comparable price point?


I deem it so because when so much else is correct, then people expect all else to follow suit. And if they become so critical, getting complete satisfaction is going to be problematical at best.


Now at this conjecture I'd like to both point out that this Thread's intention is for "Owners" of the Epson 8350 to post on. *"Only Owners"* or those considering such a course. Owner w/problem? *Absolutely we want to hear from you.
*

LCD haters or DLP advocates?


Post No Bills.










OT responses will be asked to be removed.


----------



## xxronniexx

This is my first post on this forum. Just received my 8350 two days ago and haven't turned it off since...lol

I opened the box, hooked up my PS3 along with my Pioneer VSX-1020 and now Im in heaven







Im not even in a rush to buy a screen because it looks beautiful on my wall. Im just going to sit back and enjoy hopefully it stays working fine, if not that what the warranty is for.

Only bad thing I can say is my "Man Cave" no longer exists...the whole family is in here now and the 50" plasma hasn't been turned on in the family room for about two days now


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xxronniexx* /forum/post/20323365
> 
> 
> This is my first post on this forum. Just received my 8350 two days ago and haven't turned it off since...lol
> 
> I opened the box, hooked up my PS3 along with my Pioneer VSX-1020 and now Im in heaven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not even in a rush to buy a screen because it looks beautiful on my wall. Im just going to sit back and enjoy hopefully it stays working fine, if not that what the warranty is for.
> 
> Only bad thing I can say is my "Man Cave" no longer exists...the whole family is in here now and the 50" plasma hasn't been turned on in the family room for about two days now



This has been my experience, too, although I am using an 80" Elite pull up screen. Movie heaven. Kids want to see all their movies, even non-HD stuff, like the animated Avatar series from Nickelodian via Netflix streaming. Everything looks better when you have that much more real estate to experience it.


Are darkest blacks as black? No. But now my Pioneer Plasma almost seems too dark in comparison. Movie theaters don't achieve plasma level blacks. Movie theaters have a bit of ambient light, too. What movie theaters offer is killer sound and a huge screen. Now, for 1200 bucks plus 175 for the screen, I have a movie theater whenever I want it at home.


Deep rich accurate colors? Check.

Crystal clear 1080p picture? Check.

Immersive movie experience? Check.

True HD 5.1 rumble the walls sound? Check, thanks to Pioneer receiver and Aperion audio bookshelves with Intimus 8D subwoofer.


What more can you ask for? Perfect convergence? Not sure I would ever notice it lacks it. I guess I'll plug the lap top into the back to check, but why? My laptop has a screen. My desktop has one, too. A 20 inch LCD that seems enormous when you sit 12 inches from the screen.


Loving this PJ!!!


----------



## Skiiermike

Ok. Has anyone tried this PJ with any of the 3D VIP products. I'm about to purchase this PJ and the VIP theatre but before I do I just wanted to hear how well it works.


Thanks


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20319757
> 
> 
> Guys. I think you haven't correctly understood me.
> 
> I badly speak in English. Especially, to write such opuses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I hope me will understand.
> 
> This Post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20307413 not for this purpose what to criticize EPSON 8350.
> 
> I will express the opinion about EPSON 8350:
> 
> - The best projector for the money and in the second level:
> 
> price / image quality / functionality.
> 
> - A projector of the second level. When the black ceases to irritate it with a gray shade.
> 
> - And the first in norm limits:
> 
> 
> And the second within norm:
> 
> 
> But, of course, I would like to receive the second. If will carry.
> 
> - If will carry. And convergence will be excellent not in which case I won't send it on replacement at dust detection. The dust doesn't disturb me. I will open and I will make cleaning.
> 
> If convergence disappoints me. I will try to correct it. I will open a projector.
> 
> 
> Me disturbs much more strongly: a lamp operating time.
> 
> 
> And into the account of this message http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20307413
> 
> I wrote what to explain as easier to check up convergence if the choice is possible. Not the black text on a white background, the white text on a black background. It is better to use Nokia Test.
> 
> Also has shown as can be ideal to look convergence at EPSON 8350. Both photos from EPSON 8350.
> 
> Real values between two these variants. Also can disturb only true judges or users of this forum, but not the usual spectator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I hope, me understand.



Is it me, or does the second photo show the screen to be warped? Does this affect convergence?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20322305
> 
> 
> Now at this conjecture I'd like to both point out that this Thread's intention is for "Owners" of the Epson 8350 to post on. *"Only Owners"* or those considering such a course. Owner w/problem? *Absolutely we want to hear from you.
> *
> 
> LCD haters or DLP advocates?
> 
> 
> Post No Bills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OT responses will be asked to be removed.



I can see your point, but some of us are just trying to help out others with questions, even if we do not own this projector.


To me, 1 pixel off on a 1080p projector is pretty much perfect given the size of the pixels, I can't believe people would be complaining with 1 pixel off of convergence, that is insane. In the old days of 720p projectors, even 1 pixel off we'd live with, and the pixels are like 2.25x bigger on a 720p. So 1 pixel off on a 720p is really the equivalent of 2.25 pixels off on a 1080p. So let's keep it realistic people.


I really only questioned it when a few people posted pics with convergence way way off, certainly far more than 1-2 pixels off.


I'd certainly be real happy with 1 pixel off convergence, and so should anyone else. 2 pixels off is a bit borderline, but it really depends what colors are off.


The problem you are getting in this thread is that the Epsons sold so many units that there are so many owners, therefore so many complaints. You'd think after Epson warrantied the lamp that people would stop complaining, although now a lamp shortage?


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20322061
> 
> 
> so why dismiss convergence issues on a PJ just because "you" feel it's entry level when there are plenty other "entry level" PJ's without the issue?
> 
> 
> If Epson wants to be competitive with their product, and try to convince consumers that their product is the one to get over the rest, bad convergence is something they need to rectify. Otherwise, not much point in considering them or any LCD PJ that acts the same way.



You should keep returning your projector until you get one with just good enough convergence (2 pixels or less), then just sell it and recover your money.

Then buy a DLP, it sounds like you are really unhappy with it, it just isn't for you. I can understand that, some people just don't like certain things about certain projectors.


You are judging the units from the RMA pool, the units in the RMA pool are ON AVERAGE going to have worse convergence for obvious reasons.

You have no idea the convergence accuracy percentages based on new units.


According to most, a NEW 8700ub or NEW 8350 has greatly improved convergence and quality control over the previous models.

I am defending it because Epson has done better than any other company in actually improving or addressing issues (at least they are trying). More than I can say for most of these other companies. Look in the JVC or Sony threads, even the Panny threads, all of brands and units have plenty of lemons, it's just part of the game.


I can see people getting sick of QC in projectors in general right now, it does seem pretty questionable overall, but it seems Epson is just on par with the others, if not even better than them now.

We don't dismiss it, but it's just part of the issue with LCD, it's just one of the downsides, it's not something that can be rectified at this price point.

Their isn't the money to have perfect convergence on every unit, the projector would have to cost far far more.


DLP has RBE for a percentage of users, so pick your poison.


At least you can keep exchanging it, if I pull the trigger on the Sanyo z4000 I may get totally screwed over. I didn't see very many problems on the z3000, and since the z4000 is just an upgraded z3000, that is why I am considering it. The 8700ub is still tempting though.


----------



## amooser

Well it's been 3 days since I drove 3 1/2 hours across the border to pick up my 8350 and I love it. I'm planning on reading the whole thread but it'll take a little time. Here's 3 screen shots from tonight. It's just what I wanted, a decently priced, value for money projector. It's replaced an Infocus IN74ex and to me, it's fantastic. Thanks to all for the contributions to AVSFORUM which steered me to this projector. It's just what I wanted! Cheers!


----------



## coderguy

I just ordered the Sanyo z4000 instead, too cheap to pass up.

Wish me luck, hope I don't get the convergence bug!

Because if I do, Sanyo may be a royal pain to deal with.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20323475
> 
> 
> Is it me, or does the second photo show the screen to be warped? Does this affect convergence?



None. No effect.

On the second picture convergence at the 5, on a five-point system.

On the first picture convergence at the 3.

I ask me to understand.

These photos not for criticism EPSON 8350. Convergence within norm on both photos.

The first case meets not so often. But all want to have the second case







. And I understand those who would like like to have a second option







Here is how to get lucky. (But lift your ass off the couch and go to the store. Choose a good copy. Few critics.







). Convergence within these two values. More often to the best. Deviations greater than 1 pixel does not happen. At viewing of films it doesn't disturb. Photos one are softer, others are sharper.

Convergence is the new line, the same as the previous. If to look on the statistican. But the sharpness of the new line has increased. This is not a paradox. Apparently, there are other reasons.


----------



## xxronniexx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amooser* /forum/post/20323802
> 
> 
> Well it's been 3 days since I drove 3 1/2 hours across the border to pick up my 8350 and I love it. I'm planning on reading the whole thread but it'll take a little time. Here's 3 screen shots from tonight. It's just what I wanted, a decently priced, value for money projector. It's replaced an Infocus IN74ex and to me, it's fantastic. Thanks to all for the contributions to AVSFORUM which steered me to this projector. It's just what I wanted! Cheers!



Looks good! I think I'll buy Beyonce Live in Concert on Blu Ray


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *BKSRU*
This is not a paradox.
Pretty big word there for someone who doesn't speak much English. lol


----------



## KaptainKrypton

Trigger pulled today! Got a great package deal, too. I'm switching from my Optoma HD66 as I've abandoned my quest for 3D (at least for the time being). I also ordered a 120" Elite Sableframe and am really looking forward to firing this baby up. Can't wait!


----------



## invadergir

Well after a month and half wait of sitting in their box doing nothing. I finally have my projector and 106" Everik screen up and running. I have my old Hitachi 50" RPLCD in the room as well and it's amazing how the picture dwarfs my old set. I'm using an old tv wall mount for my projector to easily swing in and out over my bed (bedroom setup) My picture has a slight slant which i hope to clear up soon, but still it looks bad ass. Watched Tangled for my first movie, but i can't wait for Tron Legacy after seeing the trailer play beforehand. Hope to post pics in a few days to share.


----------



## fedocable

Quote:

Originally Posted by *amooser* 
Well it's been 3 days since I drove 3 1/2 hours across the border to pick up my 8350 and I love it. I'm planning on reading the whole thread but it'll take a little time. Here's 3 screen shots from tonight. It's just what I wanted, a decently priced, value for money projector. It's replaced an Infocus IN74ex and to me, it's fantastic. Thanks to all for the contributions to AVSFORUM which steered me to this projector. It's just what I wanted! Cheers!
Nice to find an enthusiastic note here, from time to time. I would love to know how do you compare the Epson with your previous Infocus IN72 -which is a top-notch machine. Cheers!


----------



## fedocable

Is anyone there getting a report of exact 24fps when playing a blu-ray? (or, likewise, of 60fps or 50fps when playing a ntsc or pal dvd). For some reason, I always get 23.9fps, 59.9fps and 49.9fps...

I wouldn´t worry about it, but yesterday I checked a pal dvd and it was reported at exact 50 fps, so I began wondering if there might be a strange pulldown with everything else.


----------



## Robert2011

100 Hour Report: I've had the projector up for a little over a couple of weeks now, and have put nearly 100 hours on it already! We use it every excuse we get, and I wanted to share my experience with it so far:


This PJ is incredible in low light conditions. The picture is beautiful and the blacks are fantastic. This is my first 1080p screen (I have several 720p LCDs) and I finally see what all the fuss is about with HD-DVDs and Blu-Ray movies. I seriously was never all that impressed with these over DVD until this projector and 85" screen.


In ambient light conditions I use the Living Room mode with a few adjustments. I definately don't like the picture as much with this setting, but I only have this issue when the morning sun is hitting that side of the house. We have good quality shades on our 6' window, but blackout curtains are on my must buy list. The room is painted a dark burgendy with a black screen wall, so when the lighting conditions are optimal the room does a goob job of sucking in the image reflection, but ambient light is a little bit of an issue in this room.


The PJ is mounted at around 7 feet with our seating positions just below it, and I cannot hear the fan, period. It's that quiet. If I mute my AVR I can hear the iris going, but with normal volume I never know it's working.


The only thing I'm concerned about is buying lamps, because we enjoy using this PJ so much. I'm really happy I went with the 8350. I'm really not worried about issues that may arise due to Epson's incredible customer service and 2 year warranty. I'm hoping 1080p 3D projectors are affordable within the next two years.


----------



## gsmollin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
...We use PJ's for different reasons. Convergence won't effect the movie only user as much as the person who uses a PC with it...as I do. But bad Convergence = softer picture, and the entire point of a HD 1080p projector is for a sharp, high def picture, and the bad ones I've seen look marginally better then a SD PJ. Now get a good one and things are different.
I have another PJ that I use with a PC and project CAD drawings. It's a single-chip DLP, Sanyo. Originally, a 3-LCD Sony was used for this purpose, and did a terrible job. It had convergence problems, never mind it cost $10,000. The DLP has absolutely perfect convergence over the entire screen. Single-pixel lines are black-white transitions with color fringing limited by chromatic abberation and diffraction limiting of the DMD-lens optical engine. You really should buy the correct PJ for your application, and save us the complaints about the convergence. I should point out that a single-pixel in the LCD panel is 9 microns wide. Now lining up 6 million, 9 micron pixels on three panels that are located inches apart in an optical assembly, and then holding that alignment through shipping and then intense temperature cycling cause by a 300 W lamp inside the same case is pretty impressive, at least for me. I rather enjoy what I see. If you're not satisfied with the state-of-the-art in 3-LCD, then get something else.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have another PJ that I use with a PC and project CAD drawings. It's a single-chip DLP, Sanyo. Originally, a 3-LCD Sony was used for this purpose, and did a terrible job. It had convergence problems, never mind it cost $10,000. The DLP has absolutely perfect convergence over the entire screen. Single-pixel lines are black-white transitions with color fringing limited by chromatic abberation and diffraction limiting of the DMD-lens optical engine. You really should buy the correct PJ for your application, and save us the complaints about the convergence. I should point out that a single-pixel in the LCD panel is 9 microns wide. Now lining up 6 million, 9 micron pixels on three panels that are located inches apart in an optical assembly, and then holding that alignment through shipping and then intense temperature cycling cause by a 300 W lamp inside the same case is pretty impressive, at least for me. I rather enjoy what I see. If you're not satisfied with the state-of-the-art in 3-LCD, then get something else.



Couldn't have said it better. +1


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20324246
> 
> 
> Pretty big word there for someone who doesn't speak much English. lol



It is better to laugh together. If I too badly write also me difficult to understand. Specify.

I understand that you fan EPSON. Strangely enough, I admirer EPSON.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20323514
> 
> 
> I can see your point, but some of us are just trying to help out others with questions, even if we do not own this projector.



Yes....that's always a good thing. And in fact, no one with anything constructive to say that does not amount to being a rant against the 8350 should...and would always be welcome.


But for those who wish to rant and attempt to dissuade others from choosing the 8350, *(UBODLPA)* and whoever have not owned, or have no intention of owning a 8350, they can (...and should...) author their own Thread to do so, and let those inclined to agree with their point of view, and/or those looking for such varied opinions from "Non Owners" read from such and make their minds up from such input.


newfmp3 is an exception, having had quite a poor experience. But by far his ordeal is the gross exception to the general rule. And even with that being said, an opinion or report, once given, does not mean that one should continue to go forth with a vendetta when all the other postings do not illustrate such issues as being commonplace.


Nope, the place to do that is on a dedicated Thread that addresses such matters or opinions. Such a thread will stand up under it's own power, or fall to the wayside due to a lack of responses. In truth, there is a place on the Boards for such a thread, if not only to represent such potentially troublesome issues, but for those who feel otherwise to report to the contrary.


.......that is unless the Author states that overly enthusiastic and decidedly biased 8350 owners are not allowed.











*

UBODLPA* United Brotherhood Of DLP Advocates


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20324892
> 
> 
> Is anyone there getting a report of exact 24fps when playing a blu-ray? (or, likewise, of 60fps or 50fps when playing a ntsc or pal dvd). For some reason, I always get 23.9fps, 59.9fps and 49.9fps...
> 
> I wouldn´t worry about it, but yesterday I checked a pal dvd and it was reported at exact 50 fps, so I began wondering if there might be a strange pulldown with everything else.



I see the same info and see no issues with the PQ.

I believe my old Sanyo Z2000 did the same.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20324892
> 
> 
> Is anyone there getting a report of exact 24fps when playing a blu-ray? (or, likewise, of 60fps or 50fps when playing a ntsc or pal dvd). For some reason, I always get 23.9fps, 59.9fps and 49.9fps...
> 
> I wouldn´t worry about it, but yesterday I checked a pal dvd and it was reported at exact 50 fps, so I began wondering if there might be a strange pulldown with everything else.



So it should be.

Standard PAL of 25 shots in a second.

In the High definition Standard one of modes - 23.97 shots in a second. It and the most widespread.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is better to laugh together. If I too badly write also me difficult to understand. Specify.
> 
> I understand that you fan EPSON. Strangely enough, I admirer EPSON.



Lol I agree... BTW, what is your native language?


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20324892
> 
> 
> Is anyone there getting a report of exact 24fps when playing a blu-ray? (or, likewise, of 60fps or 50fps when playing a ntsc or pal dvd). For some reason, I always get 23.9fps, 59.9fps and 49.9fps...
> 
> I wouldn´t worry about it, but yesterday I checked a pal dvd and it was reported at exact 50 fps, so I began wondering if there might be a strange pulldown with everything else.



I have seen the same thing. The 59.9/60 Hz is caused by an old problem in color TV with 60 Hz and the color subcarrier frequency. I don't remember the details, but true 60 Hz interlaced went out with black and white TV. The 23.9/24 FPS is peculiar, however. There can't be a color subcarrier problem with film.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20325427
> 
> 
> Lol I agree... BTW, what is your native language?



My native language is Russian. Studied German. But I read often in English.

Live speech is easier. To write more difficult. Our turns of speech it is more difficult than yours. Therefore, that I write can don't look correct.

But I will try. Also I hope, in due course to correct.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My native language is Russian. Studied German. But I read often in English.
> 
> Live speech is easier. To write more difficult. Our turns of speech it is more difficult than yours. Therefore, that I write can don't look correct.
> 
> But I will try. Also I hope, in due course to correct.



Cool, you do pretty good and we are glad you are around. =)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20325597
> 
> 
> Cool, you do pretty good and we are glad you are around. =)



What the 'ell are ya doing on the Forum when there's squirtin' needs a'doin'?


Whip it out and get sumpthin' wet!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20325578
> 
> 
> My native language is Russian. Studied German. But I read often in English.
> 
> Live speech is easier. To write more difficult. Our turns of speech it is more difficult than yours. Therefore, that I write can don't look correct.
> 
> But I will try. Also I hope, in due course to correct.


*Мой русский язык не настолько очень ужасен.


Испытайте эту программу Перевода.*

http://www.freetranslation.com/ 


......try it...it works both ways, and it's a good thing to rely on when you need to relate things precisely, and in fact it can help one to determine where their own efforts are failing.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ??? ??????? ???? ?? ????????? ????? ??????.
> 
> 
> ????????? ??? ????????? ????????.



What he said...


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20325880
> 
> 
> Мой русский язык не настолько очень ужасен.



Really I wrote, what my Russian is awful







?

About my god, if it so. It is necessary to trust is more often to itself, than the translator.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20325880
> 
> 
> ......try it...it works both ways, and it's a good thing to rely on when you need to relate things precisely, and in fact it can help one to determine where their own efforts are failing.



Thanks! I try.


----------



## gsmollin

Does anybody have an F-stop range for the automatic iris? The un-stopped lens is F 2.0 when zoomed to wide angle, and F 3.17 when zoomed to telephoto. I haven't seen any spec on the iris control range. The "dynamic contrast ratio" is spec'ed at 50,000:1, and if there is a "native contrast ratio", then the ratio of those two is the control range of the iris. I haven't seen a spec for that either.


My eyes tell me it is changing about 4 stops, but that's certainly not scientific.


----------



## Manos777

For those who mention wanting to see live concerts using this projector, please do yourself a favor and rent/buy Diana Krall in Rio on blu-ray. Your eyes will pop out of your sockets. Not only is it filmed in Hi Def, but there are shots of Rio De Janeiro that will make you smell the ocean and want to reach out and feel the sand, plus Diana looks fantastic. On the close ups you can see her flawless skin and catch every nuance of her expressive face. Incredible sound, too. Personal fave was her version of Walk On By, made famous by Dionne Warwick. A great test of how well this projector handles skin tones.


----------



## Manos777

Also, recently played Tron: Legacy and it looked fantastic. This is a challenging movie for a projector in this price range, as there are many dark scenes featuring tons of black areas, but it performed amazingly, certainly no worse than what I remember the movie looking like in the cineplex. The lightcycles looked amazing. Very smooth movement and lots of eye popping detail.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20323626
> 
> 
> You should keep returning your projector until you get one with just good enough convergence (2 pixels or less), then just sell it and recover your money.
> 
> Then buy a DLP, it sounds like you are really unhappy with it, it just isn't for you. I can understand that, some people just don't like certain things about certain projectors.
> 
> 
> You are judging the units from the RMA pool, the units in the RMA pool are ON AVERAGE going to have worse convergence for obvious reasons.
> 
> You have no idea the convergence accuracy percentages based on new units.
> 
> 
> According to most, a NEW 8700ub or NEW 8350 has greatly improved convergence and quality control over the previous models.
> 
> I am defending it because Epson has done better than any other company in actually improving or addressing issues (at least they are trying). More than I can say for most of these other companies. Look in the JVC or Sony threads, even the Panny threads, all of brands and units have plenty of lemons, it's just part of the game.
> 
> 
> I can see people getting sick of QC in projectors in general right now, it does seem pretty questionable overall, but it seems Epson is just on par with the others, if not even better than them now.
> 
> We don't dismiss it, but it's just part of the issue with LCD, it's just one of the downsides, it's not something that can be rectified at this price point.
> 
> Their isn't the money to have perfect convergence on every unit, the projector would have to cost far far more.
> 
> 
> DLP has RBE for a percentage of users, so pick your poison.
> 
> 
> At least you can keep exchanging it, if I pull the trigger on the Sanyo z4000 I may get totally screwed over. I didn't see very many problems on the z3000, and since the z4000 is just an upgraded z3000, that is why I am considering it. The 8700ub is still tempting though.



All 3 of my projectors were new, not refurbs. I would not accept refurb when I only had 40 hrs on original bulb.


----------



## coderguy

How did you get new projectors, doesn't Epson only give refurbs.


----------



## hepalex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20326702
> 
> 
> Also, recently played Tron: Legacy and it looked fantastic. This is a challenging movie for a projector in this price range, as there are many dark scenes featuring tons of black areas, but it performed amazingly, certainly no worse than what I remember the movie looking like in the cineplex. The lightcycles looked amazing. Very smooth movement and lots of eye popping detail.



I watched Tron: Legacy last week and the 8350 did a great job as far as I was concerned. The IMAX scenes were especially amazing. This was one of the first movies I experienced on a projector, so it could have just been the size that was impressing me. I also watched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 1 a couple of days ago and I thought the Epson handled that quite well also. And that is one dark movie, especially the first half hour or so.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *hepalex*
I watched Tron: Legacy last week and the 8350 did a great job as far as I was concerned. The IMAX scenes were especially amazing. This was one of the first movies I experienced on a projector, so it could have just been the size that was impressing me. I also watched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 1 a couple of days ago and I thought the Epson handled that quite well also. And that is one dark movie, especially the first half hour or so.
I've used Tron Legacy as my showing off movie when friends come over. It simply looks amazing on this pj.


----------



## coderguy

Some of the IMAX Blurays are pretty mind blowing on any modern projector.

That is what I generally use to show off.


----------



## invadergir

Hoping someone can help out. I just posted yesterday about my image having a slight inward slant at the top and bottom of my screen on the right hand side. Lens shifting hasn't fixed it. leg adjustment hasn't worked and shifting my projector back and forward either. Any idea what could be causing this and what is the possible (more than likely easy) fix i can do?


----------



## ferbal

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Manos777* 
... Not only is it filmed in Hi Def, but there are shots of Rio De Janeiro that will make you smell the ocean and want to reach out and feel the sand, plus Diana looks fantastic...
And obviously you are not a Brazilian guy


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Manos777*
but there are shots of Rio De Janeiro that will make you smell the ocean and want to reach out and feel the sand
Hmmmmm If this is the case, I'm gonna have to try it with some of my porn. LOL


----------



## ferbal

Quote:

Originally Posted by *invadergir* 
Hoping someone can help out. I just posted yesterday about my image having a slight inward slant at the top and bottom of my screen on the right hand side. Lens shifting hasn't fixed it. leg adjustment hasn't worked and shifting my projector back and forward either. Any idea what could be causing this and what is the possible (more than likely easy) fix i can do?
That is because your projector is not parallel (horizontally) to the screen. Rotate the projector and correct with zoom and lens-shift.


----------



## ferbal

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Hmmmmm If this is the case, I'm gonna have to try it with some of my porn. LOL
Pleeeeeease, do a review!


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I've used Tron Legacy as my showing off movie when friends come over. It simply looks amazing on this pj.



Avatar or Toy Story 3 are the movies I use to show off this projector. Both are stunning on it.


----------



## coderguy

Yah Avatar is stunning on any projector, something to do with the color saturation.


----------



## teslabe

I've had my 8350 for about a week now and just love it........ I was very apprehensive since I was upgrading from a Benq PE8700 and was planing on sticking with DLP, but few posts color wheel speeds in their specs that I could see and I suffer from serious RBE. I bought the Acer H7530D before this and got noxious trying to watch The Mummy, with it's white text and very dark background. I sent it back and kept looking. I kept seeing great reviews for the 8350, but since my first PJ was the Sony VW10HT, I remember how bad LCD's could be with dark scenes. Well, I took the chance and I'm very happy I did, this PJ is sweet...... Side by side with my Benq, my 8350 just pops and is so quite I first thought I had a bad fan. I could go on but I've got movies to watch........


----------



## BKSRU

*MississippiMan*


1. If you not against, I use 3 translators. I shall number. Choose what is most exact. In the further it also I shall use. If you will not complicate to correct for me, I shall be grateful.

2. If you not against, I use 3 translators. I will number. Choose what is most exact. In further it also I will use. If you won't complicate to correct me, I will be grateful.

3. If you do not mind, use 3 interpreter. Voucher numbers. Choose the one that is most accurate. In the future, and it will use. If you do not make it more difficult to correct me, I will be grateful.


Thanks.

To me is what to tell. Also it is a pity that you I understand more than you me.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *invadergir* /forum/post/20327624
> 
> 
> Hoping someone can help out. I just posted yesterday about my image having a slight inward slant at the top and bottom of my screen on the right hand side. Lens shifting hasn't fixed it. leg adjustment hasn't worked and shifting my projector back and forward either. Any idea what could be causing this and what is the possible (more than likely easy) fix i can do?



Yeah. Simply twist the left corner of the PJ very slightly "forward". The right edge of your Lens is not perpendicular to the wall, (...it's closer to the right corner of the screen....) and that is making that right corner appear smaller, so the twist will make the inward slant even out.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20329132
> 
> *MississippiMan*
> 
> 
> 1. If you not against, I use 3 translators. I shall number. Choose what is most exact. In the further it also I shall use. If you will not complicate to correct for me, I shall be grateful.



Seems pretty close. The preferred language on AVS is English, but it can be a real help if one can also converse with a Foreign Member in their own language. However the Moderators prefer (...even insist...) that English be used. If you need a way to express yourself clearer, feel free to PM me in Russian and I'll re-post any translation back onto the Thread.




> Quote:
> Thanks.
> 
> To me is what to tell. Also it is a pity that you I understand more than you me.



Don't fret overly about that. A great many have felt otherwise.










Кажется достаточно близким. Привилегированный язык на AVS является английским, но это может быть реальная помощь, если Вы можете также разговаривать с Иностранным Членом на их собственном языке. Если Вы нуждаетесь в способе выразиться более ясный, не стесняйтесь Премьер-министру меня на русском языке, и я повторно объявлю любой перевод назад на Нить.


Я путешествую во всем мире экстенсивно, и должен общаться по электронной почте со многими культурами. Я завишу от хорошего инструмента Перевода весьма часто.

http://www.freetranslation.com/


----------



## BKSRU

*MississippiMan*

Many thanks!

It is possible to duplicate messages?

So easier to supervise mistakes.

I wish to improve the knowledge of English.


Большое спасибо!

Можно дублировать сообщения?

Так проще контролировать ошибки.

Хочу улучшить свои знания английского.



PM is a private theme? (It is translated as the Prime minister.







)


----------



## MississippiMan

Ok...this is what BKSRU really wants to relate. Leastwise as best as can be effectively translated:


That I wished to tell in the messages:

- EPSON 8350 best projector of the second level. Cool.


- Convergence within the limits of legal. But if there is an opportunity of a choice it is better to check up before purchase. A simple way of check - to deduce the white text on a subfloor (utility NokiaTest). The black text on a white floor gives not enough information.


- In occasion of photos. It is an example of extreme cases. Both within the limits of legal. Certainly, the second case is better. And the user will estimate it.


- Convergence of a new ruler 8350 and 8700, at the same level as well as at 8100 and 8500. But clearness of new projectors (8350 and 8700) is better.


- If wish to have a projector with greater clearness it is necessary to take 8700. Quality of assembly as well as at 8350 and convergence at the same level. But 8700 has function " Super Resolution ". It is a good thing. Considerably raises clearness. Clients are happy.


- 8700 possesses useful function Frame Interpolation, but in 8350 me it is replaced with program SVP. To adjust simply.


- The dust on matrixes does not excite me. Independently to open a projector and to blow matrixes not difficultly. Especially, if the copy has got with good convergence, there is no sense to send on preventive maintenance. But it considering, that the projector was bought in the USA, through eBay.


----------



## kspahr

I know a (zoom) lens has a "sweet spot" based on iris and focal length. The further you get away from this "sweet spot" the better chance to get chromatic aberration. I assume that the lens on the 8350 would also have a "sweet spot" too.


How do you tell the difference between convergence issues and chromatic aberration?


Is there a optimal placement distance for this projector and how would one determine that? The online placement calculators gives quite a range where you can put the projector. I would think that the design of a lens like this would provide the best performance at a particular focal length.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kspahr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know a (zoom) lens has a "sweet spot" based on iris and focal length. The further you get away from this "sweet spot" the better chance to get chromatic aberration. I assume that the lens on the 8350 would also have a "sweet spot" too.
> 
> 
> How do you tell the difference between convergence issues and chromatic aberration?
> 
> 
> Is there a optimal placement distance for this projector and how would one determine that? The online placement calculators gives quite a range where you can put the projector. I would think that the design of a lens like this would provide the best performance at a particular focal length.



Good question. I would also think this depends on what image size you want to project.


----------



## helcik

hi folks!


just ordered mine 8350 from crutchfield. 30 days for testing. hopefully it will stay  now waiting for Acer H5360BD release in USA for 3D evaluation.


I am considering 2 screens: Da-Lite HP 2.4 and Grandview Tab Tensioned screen, both at 125". Considering I have 2 small children who can not stay at one place too long is the HP a good solution (viewing angle is not wide).


Both projectors will be installed in a living room (not bright one), so some light present during the day.

Usage:

50% gaming in the evening

20% movies in the evening

20% cartoons during the day


Please, send me your comments.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20331077
> 
> 
> hi folks!
> 
> 
> just ordered mine 8350 from crutchfield. 30 days for testing. hopefully it will stay  now waiting for Acer H5360BD release in USA for 3D evaluation.
> 
> 
> I am considering 2 screens: Da-Lite HP 2.4 and Grandview Tab Tensioned screen, both at 125". Considering I have 2 small children who can not stay at one place too long is the HP a good solution (viewing angle is not wide).
> 
> 
> Both projectors will be installed in a living room (not bright one), so some light present during the day.
> 
> Usage:
> 
> 50% gaming in the evening
> 
> 20% movies in the evening
> 
> 20% cartoons during the day
> 
> 
> Please, send me your comments.



see the HP thread, there is one thread dedicated to the 2.4. If you are ceiling mounted the HP may not work for you. I use it, but I have lowered my Projector with a telescopic mount to keep it near eye level. Honestly the 8350 is so bright anyways, even in cinema mode, you won't need the extra brightness at all until bulb ages. As for viewing angle, assuming your couch is in center of screen, and so is your PJ, you will notice a bit of brightness as you go a couch length back and forth with the 2.4. But it really depends on how close you are to screen as well. Lots of variables with the HP. If your table mounting....then there's no doubt, get the HP


----------



## helcik

I thought it may help for daytime viewing. My couch and PJ is in the cetner of the screen. I may go for ceiling mount with mount extension to lower the PJ 2 feet above eye level or go for wall mount. I will be using same screen for 3D once I get the Acer H5360BD.


My throw distance is 14', and I will be sitting 12' from the screen.


Greetings and thx for comments!


----------



## Davidt1

There is an air inlet at the back of this unit. What is the closest, safe distance this projector can placed against the back wall? My current projector is placed less than 2'' from the back wall. Thanks.


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Davidt1* /forum/post/20333089
> 
> 
> There is an air inlet at the back of this unit. What is the closest, safe distance this projector can placed against the back wall? My current projector is placed less than 2'' from the back wall. Thanks.



Chances will increase, that your lamp will serve 500 hours, instead of 4000 hours.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20333167
> 
> 
> Chances will increase, that your lamp will serve 500 hours, instead of 4000 hours.



Really? I would say that 2 inches is not bad at all, provided that the pj is on an "open" shelf and air is passing back there! In such a case, what would be the difference between 2 inches and 1 mt? I really don´t see any!


----------



## Davinleeds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Davidt1* /forum/post/20333089
> 
> 
> There is an air inlet at the back of this unit. What is the closest, safe distance this projector can placed against the back wall? My current projector is placed less than 2'' from the back wall. Thanks.



And is it over heating?


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20333201
> 
> 
> Really? I would say that 2 inches is not bad at all, provided that the pj is on an "open" shelf and air is passing back there! In such a case, what would be the difference between 2 inches and 1 mt? I really don´t see any!



It is not surprising, that the theme turns to a theme of complaints.

Can it is necessary to esteem instructions and to think of a thermal mode?


----------



## BearDownBish2010

So I got my 8350 last night paired with my fixed frame 106 monoprice screen and I have to say I'm really impressed. this being my first projector I really have nothing o compare it to especially upgrading from a 5 year old 22 inch samsung that got me thru college. I'm still working on setting up speakers but am using headphones in the meantime. Really happy with the purchase any upkeep maintenance issues I should worry about beyond what's in the manual?


----------



## MississippiMan

My reasons in occasion of short service life of a lamp.


Lyrics:

This projector has become a product of wide consumption. In difference from what many enthusiasts know and expect from projectors, the usual 1st time consumer does not understand that it is necessary to "expect" to have to pay off when a Bulb fails past the normal 90 Day / 500 hour time limits..


How would/can the lamp would serve longer:


- Use a uninterrupted power supply with the AC stabilizer (UPS+AVR). Probably, at you the pressure does not skip as it happens at us. Emergency switching-off from a network will not spoil suddenly a lamp, but considerably will reduce service life. The fan should air run some time to provide necessary airing. The distance from a wall up to a projector (a lattice of airing of a projector) should be optimum. A Minimum of 12"....certainly NOT 2".










- One simply cannot forget to clean the filter. It will allow not only to relieve matrixes of a dust, but also will provide the adequate air flow necessary to maintain a serviceable temperature mode.


It is necessary to remember, that a lamp is a thing whimsical.

Usually a basic Lamp warranty does not guarantee completely against premature failure of a lamp. But chances to prolong its service life will increase if proper care and consideration is taken.


Very much it would be desirable to tighten the knowledge of English. Dialogue expands an outlook.


----------



## BKSRU

It is amusing to read translation. Especially interpretation of our turns of speech. But I hope so more clearly, than to play broken phone.

Thank you very much!


----------



## newfmp3

Coderguy


I "requested" they send new. I also requested they let me return it, but I was 8 days beyond the 30. So it was like...let me return it or send a new one. Luckily I had a decent guy to deal with. A little hard to get a hold of, but he was what Epson service has a rep for being...good. Keep in mid my original only had 40 hrs on it when I made the call, 60 when I actually packed it up, and the 2nd they sent me never had any more then maybe 3 hrs tops.


----------



## WithAlligators

I found a great medium between cheap and expensive mounts I think the DIYers will like. I found a chief rpa mount on ebay for 20 ducks that was the mount plus plate for some obscure HP model that no one wants (thus the low price). The swivelling units are universal I think, and depend on the plate to be projector specific. So I made a template out of a cereal box, went to the local metal shop and bought a scrap piece of 1/8" steel for $6. I came home, trimmed it to size, traced and remeasured where the holes would be, drilled 4 for the PJ and 4 (tapped) for the mount. At home depot I bought a piece of 1.5" NPT pipe and a flange for like 15 more dollars. a can of spray paint later and it all looks pretty good! The security and adjustability of a chief mount for like 50 dollarinos! Also, I noticed that since teh PJ has been mounted upside down, the iris grinding sound has gone from almost completely inaudible to unacceptably loud and had to be turned off. I wonder if that's soley my machine or an engineered fault in all of them. No big loss either way. Finally, while I have little to compare it to, it seems to throw a fantastic image at 150" (15+- feet away, eco mode, cinema setting with Art's calibrations) on my el cheapo elite manual pull down. At some point I intend to throw a coat of (insert appropriate paint recipe here) to make it pop, but for now, no complaints. Go big!

Cheers,

Alex


----------



## BKSRU

Have delivered EPSON 8350. I owner EPSON, as well as you







.

After connection, I shall estimate convergence of the projector... For statistics.

Photos are necessary, this time







?

Me will understand?


----------



## mutheater

I have a 16:9 screen and can't stand the black bars with 2.35 blurays. What is the best way to "fill up" the screen? I don't want a manual masking system and the manual image adjustment throws the left and right portion of the movie off the screen.


For some reason, 8350 seems to "lock out" any zoom or stretch options in the aspect menu.


----------



## Santi8

My softball sized green dust blob disappeared!


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mutheater* /forum/post/20335473
> 
> 
> I have a 16:9 screen and can't stand the black bars with 2.35 blurays. What is the best way to "fill up" the screen? I don't want a manual masking system and the manual image adjustment throws the left and right portion of the movie off the screen.
> 
> 
> For some reason, 8350 seems to "lock out" any zoom or stretch options in the aspect menu.



Yes, the menu seems to be locked -at least when playing hd media.

Do you actually want to stretch the image, or just zoom in a bit? Either case, did you try doing that with the BD-player menus or the Epson´s "overscan"?


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20333597
> 
> 
> My reasons in occasion of short service life of a lamp.
> 
> 
> The distance from a wall up to a projector (a lattice of airing of a projector) should be optimum. A Minimum of 12"....certainly NOT 2".



If that´s the case, I´m in trouble. The farthest from the wall I can place it is about 4 inches, on a shelf I´ve made. But then, there are no absolutely obstructions to the sides or upwards, so air should be blowing well back there, and I only use the pj to watch movies at night in Cinema and ECO mode (ie. the less hot sets). Would you say I´m pushing the envelop here?


----------



## civilsavage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20335960
> 
> 
> If that´s the case, I´m in trouble. The farthest from the wall I can place it is about 4 inches, on a shelf I´ve made. But then, there are no absolutely obstructions to the sides or upwards, so air should be blowing well back there, and I only use the pj to watch movies at night in Cinema and ECO mode (ie. the less hot sets). Would you say I´m pushing the envelop here?




if your high speed fan kicks on while in eco mode you might end up with a problem to solve. if not i'd say your OK.


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *civilsavage* /forum/post/20336006
> 
> 
> if your high speed fan kicks on while in eco mode you might end up with a problem to solve. if not i'd say your OK.



Thanks so much. So you think that the fan would automatically turn to high speed in case of overheating, even when the lamp is working in the less brighter mode? That would be a nice indicator of thermal problem. As far as I can tell, there are two independent fans: one for cold air-in (back) and another for hot air-out (front). I guess the speed is the same for both. In any case, I´ll run some tests.

For starters, I can tell you that if I turn off eco mode, noise becomes clearly higher.


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fedocable* /forum/post/20335960
> 
> 
> If that´s the case, I´m in trouble. The farthest from the wall I can place it is about 4 inches, on a shelf I´ve made. But then, there are no absolutely obstructions to the sides or upwards, so air should be blowing well back there, and I only use the pj to watch movies at night in Cinema and ECO mode (ie. the less hot sets). Would you say I´m pushing the envelop here?



I asked a similar question to EPSON support and they told me you should generally have 6" of clearance on all sides. However it's not as important on the back as most of the hot air gets pushed out through the front-side vents. The 4" clearance you have on the back is not ideal but should be fine unless you have the projector in a room with harsh temperature conditions (i.e. it becomes a sweatbox in the room with your projector during the summer).


----------



## fedocable




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ikecomp* /forum/post/20336303
> 
> 
> I asked a similar question to EPSON support and they told me you should generally have 6" of clearance on all sides. However it's not as important on the back as most of the hot air gets pushed out through the front-side vents. The 4" clearance you have on the back is not ideal but should be fine unless you have the projector in a room with harsh temperature conditions (i.e. it becomes a sweatbox in the room with your projector during the summer).



Thanks A LOT for your answer. Now, 6 inches sounds much more like it than 12! I´ll keep this in mind during summer, though. The good thing is that the pj stands right below the air conditioner, so I can easily keep it cool.


----------



## chicagovet

I was told (by Visual Apex, where I purchased mine) that my softball-sized, green spot was a "dust blob". But the Epson rep tells me it is NOT that, and that the "dust blob" problem is "a misconception". He says it's a pixel issue. They're sending me a "new" one (probably refurbished, although I requested a brand new one); with seven days to return my "old" (only four months) one.


----------



## pacemaker

What refresh rates/resolution will it accept



for instance via a HTPC i would like to force 1920x1080x72Hz and 75Hz


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20339485
> 
> 
> What refresh rates/resolution will it accept
> 
> 
> 
> for instance via a HTPC i would like to force 1920x1080x72Hz and 75Hz




Wish to test CVP







?

Unfortunately, 72Hz and 75Hz it is not possible with a projector.

48Hz and 60Hz work without artefacts for SVP. If, I have correctly understood your desires.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20339571
> 
> 
> Wish to test CVP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Unfortunately, 72Hz and 75Hz it is not possible with a projector.
> 
> 48Hz and 60Hz work without artefacts for SVP. If, I have correctly understood your desires.



thanks, looks like you got what i meant










in order to get smooth playback i set desktop to 1080p24 as this is the only option in the ATI menu. it works, but using WMC the onscreen menus are very jerky. i assumed this is down to the low refresh rate as 50hz look smooth.

setting it to 48 would i imagine do the trick but there is no option for it in the ati menus. i assume it can be done but how difficult it is i have yet to work out so i needed to find out if it was possible before a tried it. so thanks for clearing that up for me


----------



## dfrankdfrank

Finally got fed up with measuring, calculating and day-dreaming whether an Epson 8350 would work with my family room so I bought one last night from a place with no restocking fee to test it out for real. Not too shabby.


10.5 ft viewing distance with a throw of 12 or so ft. Projected it on a cream wall opposite a very large window (open area to the left of this wall, a dark red wall to right of it, white ceiling, light carpet, dark brown furniture and black out curtains for the big window). Even with the curtain open and late afternoon, cloudy-day light flooding the room, it projected a decently viewable picture.


The convergence was perhaps a pixel or so off. Obviously, I didn't notice it from my seating distance. The picture was sharp, although I expect it would be much, much sharper on a screen as opposed to my lightly textured wall. My room setup requires the use of a lot of lens shift, which is why I really needed to try one out for real to see if my math was workable. At times I had both vertical and horizontal at their max. I closely inspected the image for issues with extreme lens shift and could not see any.


I dialed in a few settings (auto iris: fast - yes I did notice it lag on pure black screens, but not during live content; 2:2 on; HDMI range was automatic (although, expanded would blow out the blacks); superwhite off; rgb on; played with the contrast and few other setting, and used cinema for my all-dark viewing -- sometimes with eco mode and sometimes not. Overall, not remotely fine tuned, but probably slightly better than out of the box - for a cream wall.


I had no sound since my sound system was on the opposite side of the room. With the projector 2-3 feet above my head and directly to my right (and my loud, old style fat PS3 at head level to my right), I could hear the auto-iris grind a little like a hard drive. I have dog-like hearing (it's about my only natural talent) and I did not find it annoying, and I doubt it would be very noticeable with the sound on. However, the projector fan was noticeable (definitely more so in normal mode). Buuut. I think typical sound would cover it up and move it to background noise (like when your heater is running and you sort of forget that it is).


After removing the ambient light from the room, I ran the projector thru the paces with the expected blu-rays off my PS3 (Avatar, Dark Knight, 127 Hours, Toy Story 3) along with Netflix streaming (both Hi-Def and Standard) and DVDs (Revenge of the Sith). I continually changed the size of the picture, ranging from approx. 100" - 120".


Blu-rays looked great, as expected. Both Standard and Hi-Def Netflix streaming looked much better than I expected. I don't deny I was disappointed with DVD (it looked worse than Netflix streaming SD). Revenge of the Sith is one of the better DVD transfers, and it just felt lacking (but the PS3 has never had the best upscaler and I believe I was watching with the screen closer to around 120" -- ultimately I prefer 100-106" for best balance of clarity and size from my 10.5 ft viewing distance).


Black levels. Well, I come from using a 58" Panasonic V10 (which was their 2009 flagship model). I'm pretty good at keeping my expectations in check (especially since my room is not optimal for contrast nor was the wall I was projecting onto), so I wasn't expecting plasma level by any means. For 16:9 content, the picture has a lot of depth. However, I have mixed feelings on blacks in regards to 2.35:1 content with letterbox bars. With the plasma, I'm used to the brighter scenes making the bars appear blacker and improving overall perceived contrast and the darker scenes making them appear grayer. But with the way the iris works on projectors, it's the opposite. Dark scenes looked good (almost comparable to the plasma or a very good LCD). However lighter scenes reeeally blew out the blacks on the bars and affected the overall perceived contrast. Not exactly a deal-breaker, but I don't deny it gives me some pause on whether to perhaps wait until the next iteration of this model arrives in fall (I've been on the fence for awhile on that since I have a gut feeling the next model for the 8350 may further incorporate some of the tech currently used for the 8700 such as CFI -- at the very least the contrast will improve somewhat...or perhaps the next 8700 version will drop a few more hundred $ as they have been since the 1080, who knows?)


I digress. I've always known I needed a gray screen for my room. And I believe it would definitely help in this situation (my ceiling will never be painted black, and since it's not the 70s/80s my carpet will remain a lighter color). Although to what degree a gray screen will help, I cannot say. I'm considering gray fixed screens from Elite, Elunevision (1.1 gain), Jamestown, and even perhaps the new multi-format Monoprice one (once someone actually buys one and posts some real info and pics).

*So here's my question, if anyone is still reading. Has anyone else with a similar room setup (white ceiling, light carpet, a light wall that would hold the screen) tried the 8350 with any of those gray screens (or perhaps another one from another of the more economic manufacturers)? Did they have a noticeable impact on the perceived contrast on 2.35: 1 material, especially during brighter scenes?*


----------



## Scopeboy

I totally hear what you are saying, I took a hiatus from HT for the last 3 years b/c of time I wanted to spend with my daughter, just bought an 8350 with high hopes that this would be the projector........I'm less than thrilled. I don't know if it's because I've gotten used to my Sony XBR8, which shouldn't come as anything but a surprise given it's black levels.....but my room is similar to yours. I have dark tan walls, not white, and very high ceilings. My thought was although my last room was completely a home theater room, this room would suffice for a projector and it's published 50,000:1 contrast..... My last theater room was completely dark, no windows, no light. It was painted dark, and I had a Mitsubishi HC5000 to replace my aging NEC 10PG, 9" crt. I was very impressed with it at the time........my belief now having gone through and seeing first hand the difference is room has almost EVERYTHING to do with black levels. I believe if I could go back in time and throw this EPSON into my theater room, I could really see what it is capable of. Now, without the added benefit of light spray bouncing around and hitting the screen, I am foolish to think that the 8350 can betray the physics of light reflections.... I'm sure it's a fine projector, but I can't live with it in this room, not now anyway. So, to sum up, yes, I understand you are disappointed, I am too if it makes you feel any better. I"m probably going to sell it. I think a lot of people here are content with what it can do......I wish I didn't know how important a room is in the scheme of things......but it plays a major role.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20342297
> 
> 
> Finally got fed up with measuring, calculating and day-dreaming whether an Epson 8350 would work with my family room so I bought one last night from a place with no restocking fee to test it out for real. Not too shabby.
> 
> 
> 10.5 ft viewing distance with a throw of 12 or so ft. Projected it on a cream wall opposite a very large window (open area to the left of this wall, a dark red wall to right of it, white ceiling, light carpet, dark brown furniture and black out curtains for the big window). Even with the curtain open and late afternoon, cloudy-day light flooding the room, it projected a decently viewable picture.
> 
> 
> The convergence was perhaps a pixel or so off. Obviously, I didn't notice it from my seating distance. The picture was sharp, although I expect it would be much, much sharper on a screen as opposed to my lightly textured wall. My room setup requires the use of a lot of lens shift, which is why I really needed to try one out for real to see if my math was workable. At times I had both vertical and horizontal at their max. I closely inspected the image for issues with extreme lens shift and could not see any.
> 
> 
> I dialed in a few settings (auto iris: fast - yes I did notice it lag on pure black screens, but not during live content; 2:2 on; HDMI range was automatic (although, expanded would blow out the blacks); superwhite off; rgb on; played with the contrast and few other setting, and used cinema for my all-dark viewing -- sometimes with eco mode and sometimes not. Overall, not remotely fine tuned, but probably slightly better than out of the box - for a cream wall.
> 
> 
> I had no sound since my sound system was on the opposite side of the room. With the projector 2-3 feet above my head and directly to my right (and my loud, old style fat PS3 at head level to my right), I could hear the auto-iris grind a little like a hard drive. I have dog-like hearing (it's about my only natural talent) and I did not find it annoying, and I doubt it would be very noticeable with the sound on. However, the projector fan was noticeable (definitely more so in normal mode). Buuut. I think typical sound would cover it up and move it to background noise (like when your heater is running and you sort of forget that it is).
> 
> 
> After removing the ambient light from the room, I ran the projector thru the paces with the expected blu-rays off my PS3 (Avatar, Dark Knight, 127 Hours, Toy Story 3) along with Netflix streaming (both Hi-Def and Standard) and DVDs (Revenge of the Sith). I continually changed the size of the picture, ranging from approx. 100" - 120".
> 
> 
> Blu-rays looked great, as expected. Both Standard and Hi-Def Netflix streaming looked much better than I expected. I don't deny I was disappointed with DVD (it looked worse than Netflix streaming SD). Revenge of the Sith is one of the better DVD transfers, and it just felt lacking (but the PS3 has never had the best upscaler and I believe I was watching with the screen closer to around 120" -- ultimately I prefer 100-106" for best balance of clarity and size from my 10.5 ft viewing distance).
> 
> 
> Black levels. Well, I come from using a 58" Panasonic V10 (which was their 2009 flagship model). I'm pretty good at keeping my expectations in check (especially since my room is not optimal for contrast nor was the wall I was projecting onto), so I wasn't expecting plasma level by any means. For 16:9 content, the picture has a lot of depth. However, I have mixed feelings on blacks in regards to 2.35:1 content with letterbox bars. With the plasma, I'm used to the brighter scenes making the bars appear blacker and improving overall perceived contrast and the darker scenes making them appear grayer. But with the way the iris works on projectors, it's the opposite. Dark scenes looked good (almost comparable to the plasma or a very good LCD). However lighter scenes reeeally blew out the blacks on the bars and affected the overall perceived contrast. Not exactly a deal-breaker, but I don't deny it gives me some pause on whether to perhaps wait until the next iteration of this model arrives in fall (I've been on the fence for awhile on that since I have a gut feeling the next model for the 8350 may further incorporate some of the tech currently used for the 8700 such as CFI -- at the very least the contrast will improve somewhat...or perhaps the next 8700 version will drop a few more hundred $ as they have been since the 1080, who knows?)
> 
> 
> I digress. I've always known I needed a gray screen for my room. And I believe it would definitely help in this situation (my ceiling will never be painted black, and since it's not the 70s/80s my carpet will remain a lighter color). Although to what degree a gray screen will help, I cannot say. I'm considering gray fixed screens from Elite, Elunevision (1.1 gain), Jamestown, and even perhaps the new multi-format Monoprice one (once someone actually buys one and posts some real info and pics).
> 
> *So here's my question, if anyone is still reading. Has anyone else with a similar room setup (white ceiling, light carpet, a light wall that would hold the screen) tried the 8350 with any of those gray screens (or perhaps another one from another of the more economic manufacturers)? Did they have a noticeable impact on the perceived contrast on 2.35: 1 material, especially during brighter scenes?*



I've viewed the 8350 on a gray screen probably 80 inches. It is not very impressive. While it may help with the ambient light. It dulls the colors. So pick your poison.

No doubt rooms play an important role in the contrast, but starting out with a better source doesn't hurt either. My room is also light colored. I and others can easily see the difference in contrast from different projectors.


----------



## helcik




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20342297
> 
> 
> ...
> *So here's my question, if anyone is still reading. Has anyone else with a similar room setup (white ceiling, light carpet, a light wall that would hold the screen) tried the 8350 with any of those gray screens (or perhaps another one from another of the more economic manufacturers)? Did they have a noticeable impact on the perceived contrast on 2.35: 1 material, especially during brighter scenes?*



if you are satisfied with 16:9, then a fixed frame multiformat screen shall do the job. For retractable screen I was advised to buy 16:9 and while watching 2:35 content go up with the screen until the bottom meets the bottom of the picture. In that case you'll have 2:35 screen besides the top bar.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scopeboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I totally hear what you are saying, I took a hiatus from HT for the last 3 years b/c of time I wanted to spend with my daughter, just bought an 8350 with high hopes that this would be the projector........I'm less than thrilled. I don't know if it's because I've gotten used to my Sony XBR8, which shouldn't come as anything but a surprise given it's black levels.....but my room is similar to yours. I have dark tan walls, not white, and very high ceilings. My thought was although my last room was completely a home theater room, this room would suffice for a projector and it's published 50,000:1 contrast..... My last theater room was completely dark, no windows, no light. It was painted dark, and I had a Mitsubishi HC5000 to replace my aging NEC 10PG, 9" crt. I was very impressed with it at the time........my belief now having gone through and seeing first hand the difference is room has almost EVERYTHING to do with black levels. I believe if I could go back in time and throw this EPSON into my theater room, I could really see what it is capable of. Now, without the added benefit of light spray bouncing around and hitting the screen, I am foolish to think that the 8350 can betray the physics of light reflections.... I'm sure it's a fine projector, but I can't live with it in this room, not now anyway. So, to sum up, yes, I understand you are disappointed, I am too if it makes you feel any better. I"m probably going to sell it. I think a lot of people here are content with what it can do......I wish I didn't know how important a room is in the scheme of things......but it plays a major role.



Does your bulb have less then 100 hours on it? Blacks might improve a touch as it ages.


The room I have my 8350 in has had multiple pj's in it, it is just fine with dark flat colors, light controlled, no ambient light etc, Your room certainly sounds less suitable for a pj, but do not expect night and day difference by redoing room IMHO. It would be cheaper for you maybe just to try the 8700. It seems like people who are used to good black levels are not content with the 8350. I have managed to tweak what I can out of mine, tried 3 different screens now and so on, it is is not "bad" but I am not content either with it blacks or lack of color pop. It is a great first pj for someone, nice lens shift to make installation easy, bright as hell for ambient light, etc, but once you are used to a better quality picture from something else, it's flaws are obvious. But if your room is bad enough, probably doesn't matter what you stick in there, only you know that.


----------



## Logan M

I'm considering buying this projector and I was wondering if any of the owners could give me their impressions as to how it is as a computer monitor. I will primarily be using it to play games on my PC, 360, and PS3 as well as streaming movies from my PC. What resolutions it supports would be especially of interest to me particularly if it can do 640x480 and 800x600. I haven't read through the entire thread (That's quite the read!) so if these things have been posted earlier in it please forgive me. You may also notice I made a thread on this subject which I tried and failed to delete. So sorry about the redundancy.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Logan M* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm considering buying this projector and I was wondering if any of the owners could give me their impressions as to how it is as a computer monitor. I will primarily be using it to play games on my PC, 360, and PS3 as well as streaming movies from my PC. What resolutions it supports would be especially of interest to me particularly if it can do 640x480 and 800x600. I haven't read through the entire thread (That's quite the read!) so if these things have been posted earlier in it please forgive me. You may also notice I made a thread on this subject which I tried and failed to delete. So sorry about the redundancy.



Why such low resolutions? Do you game on your PC on these resolutions?


----------



## Logan M




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20345840
> 
> 
> Why such low resolutions? Do you game on your PC on these resolutions?



I play a lot of older games that only support those resolutions. I suppose most of them could be played windowed but it would be a lot nicer if those resolutions were supported.


----------



## Greg220

Solved: interestingly, there was a scaling setting in the properties for the graphical card in my laptop. Thanks for the hint, luclin999.

_For some reason, the 1080p HDMI signal from my laptop doesn't fill the whole screen, even though the resolution is 1920x1080. The screen is displayed as if it were a letterbox inside of 4x3, i.e. much smaller and centered with black bars on all 4 sides.


I don't have any other HDMI device to compare with. But when I'm feeding S-Video signal from my old DVD, everything looks great: it's wide-screen and it fills the entire 16x9 area.


Could someone help? I searched this thread but couldn't find an answer.
_


----------



## luclin999

check the output settings on your player. It sounds like that eare wrong.


----------



## dfrankdfrank

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Scopeboy* 
I totally hear what you are saying, I took a hiatus from HT for the last 3 years b/c of time I wanted to spend with my daughter, just bought an 8350 with high hopes that this would be the projector........I'm less than thrilled. I don't know if it's because I've gotten used to my Sony XBR8, which shouldn't come as anything but a surprise given it's black levels.....but my room is similar to yours. I have dark tan walls, not white, and very high ceilings. My thought was although my last room was completely a home theater room, this room would suffice for a projector and it's published 50,000:1 contrast..... My last theater room was completely dark, no windows, no light. It was painted dark, and I had a Mitsubishi HC5000 to replace my aging NEC 10PG, 9" crt. I was very impressed with it at the time........my belief now having gone through and seeing first hand the difference is room has almost EVERYTHING to do with black levels. I believe if I could go back in time and throw this EPSON into my theater room, I could really see what it is capable of. Now, without the added benefit of light spray bouncing around and hitting the screen, I am foolish to think that the 8350 can betray the physics of light reflections.... I'm sure it's a fine projector, but I can't live with it in this room, not now anyway. So, to sum up, yes, I understand you are disappointed, I am too if it makes you feel any better. I"m probably going to sell it. I think a lot of people here are content with what it can do......I wish I didn't know how important a room is in the scheme of things......but it plays a major role.
I don't think I was disappointed overall, but it may have come off that way. I was just surprised that my main complaint was the letterbox bars since I'm well aware that they are often quite visible on very good plasma such as mine. So I kept my expectations in check. But I was still surprised how distracting it was (and maybe even more so when pitted against a black frame).


Regardless, I still found the image for both 16:9 and 2.35:1 content to be punchy, sharp, and very satisfying -- and bright material held up quite well in dynamic mode even when daylight was flooding in from my very large window directly across from the projected image. So for a budget projector, I think it's more than worth the money. Like I said, I still may holdout for the next iteration of this model just because I think it may incorporate a few more features for the same price or even lower if it follows the trend. But if I get itchy to create a true home theater, I just may buy the 8350 (for real this time).


----------



## MississippiMan

Courtesy of http://www.freetranslation.com/ and a small amount of assumptive editing.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20339571
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I wish to express opinion in occasion of comparison with plasma.
> 
> - If the room is not prepared, there is no sense to compare any projector to plasma. It is necessary not only to black out a room completely. It is necessary to disguise space around of the screen.
> 
> The framework (letterbox bars) is obligatory for masking. Otherwise, even having a contrast level of 200000:1 will not help.
> 
> 
> - 50000:1 there is no sense directly to compare to plasma. For EPSON 8350 native (Native) contrast ON/OFF 1500:1, ANSI 310:1. That actually is not so little and also suffices for the second level of the projectors competing with DLP models on depths of black. But for the House Cinema (HT) it is necessary to prepare the room for such a premise. And then blacks will not irritate. In this case, 8350 will yield results, quite сomparable with plasma.
> 
> - If we wish to achieve the depths of black as from plasma, to begin it is necessary from a projector of the third level. EPSON 8700 to suit for this purpose. But for HT use...all the same it will be carefully necessary to prepare, if we want adequate comparison with plasma.



*


----------



## Darkhour

Does anyones blacks look greenish? i have a mits hc4000 here as well and the blacks are great! But RBE breaks it for me and some minor issues that could be fixed forced the 8350 into my setup, but the hc4000 does have a better pic and more pop. I like the 8350, but was expecting more on the contrast.


If anyone does not have RBE issues the Mits is a winner! Now, back to the greenish blacks, any ideas?


----------



## Scopeboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20345272
> 
> 
> Does your bulb have less then 100 hours on it? Blacks might improve a touch as it ages.
> 
> 
> The room I have my 8350 in has had multiple pj's in it, it is just fine with dark flat colors, light controlled, no ambient light etc, Your room certainly sounds less suitable for a pj, but do not expect night and day difference by redoing room IMHO. It would be cheaper for you maybe just to try the 8700. It seems like people who are used to good black levels are not content with the 8350. I have managed to tweak what I can out of mine, tried 3 different screens now and so on, it is is not "bad" but I am not content either with it blacks or lack of color pop. It is a great first pj for someone, nice lens shift to make installation easy, bright as hell for ambient light, etc, but once you are used to a better quality picture from something else, it's flaws are obvious. But if your room is bad enough, probably doesn't matter what you stick in there, only you know that.



I used the standard settings given out by projector review, I haven't really calibrated it or messed with the settings all that much.......as far as letting the bulb age.......it only has 3 hours on it. Are you saying that I should let some hours burn in before making final judgement? What settings did you settle on. I noticed also that I have some panel misalignment....obviously I can't see it from 9 feet back, but it makes me wonder if that has anything to do with the contrast ratio being less than what it could or should be.


----------



## tweakalot

Hello everyone, i am experiencing hot-spotting from 8350 projecting on a 106" motorized elite screen cinetension 2 matte white. I have contacted elite screen and here's their response.


Good day,

You have been issued RMA #xxxxx for a full replacement of your defective screen.* In lieu of asking for the entire screen back, we do ask the following parts of your current screen be returned before a replacement can be shipped:

Both casing end caps, circuit board (found under left end cap), IR & RF remotes, wall switch, and a 24” square cut out of the screen material.* Once the parts are received, a full replacement unit will be shipped to you.

When shipping these parts (our address is posted below), please note that your RMA number of xxxxx must be posted on the outside label of your shipping box. *Our warehouse is not authorized to accept returns without an RMA number. *Please note that RMA numbers are only valid for 45 days from the date of issue. *

This procedure is concurrent with our standing Warranty Policy, is at the sole discretion of Elite Screens Inc., and is non-negotiable. *Please note that Elite Screens does not provide Advance Replacement options. *Please let me know if you have any questions regarding your RMA (#xxxx).


Is it typical for a company to request and receive the damage goods before shipping out replacement? (this sucks) Far too often the replacement is in worst shape or in the same condition. Any advice, suggestion would be appreciated.


----------



## tweakalot

This blows! I will NEVER again!!!


----------



## HDRookie

What is Hot-spotting?


----------



## tweakalot

It's light streak in the middle of the screen. It's where the projected image hits the screen Without being evenly distributed, thus creating some light concentration usually in bright scenes but also apparent in normal lit scenes in more severe cases.


----------



## dvrmstrng

I may have to sell my 8350 due to the size of a new apartment. If anyone is interested, its


----------



## Darkhour

Tweakalot - I've noticed the same hotspotting with my 8350, except it's close to the top left corner, I notice it when there is no picture and the iris hasn't kicked in yet. I have a high contrast gray screen with a 0 gain, I would venture to say it's not your screen.


----------



## Darkhour

Any one experiencing Greenish blacks out there???


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhour* /forum/post/20358281
> 
> 
> Any one experiencing Greenish blacks out there???



Greenish, no, purple'ish yes on my first one.


Tweakalot: Hotspotting is usually a screen issue. What are you calling hot spotting? is it all colors, or just blacks or whites? what screen material are you using and how close is the PJ to screen.


Scopeboy: From memory: I am using Cinema with bulb on normal with ambient lights and bulb on Eco at night with no lights. Iris on Normal. Superwhite off, HDMI Expanded ( i think) contrast upwards of 6, brightness around -10, saturation around 5, tint 0, sharpess 4. I can't remember what gamma is at but it's not default and is set to Art's settings. But I'm using a 2.4 gain High Power Dalite screen in a totally light controlled room. Very little lens shift if any at all. Ceiling mounted on low ceilings and telescopic mount. I used am image I have to test for crushed blacks and dropped brightness as low as I could. HDMI Expanded vs normal can totally crush blacks.


If your not happy with it, get rid of it. I wasn't at first either and just kept putting off making the decision until it was too late, but I had a lot of family/health/life issues happening around the same time frame which ultimately led to me trying to return it after the 30 day limit by 1 week. Nobodies fault, but lets just say it wasn't a good month.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhour* /forum/post/20358278
> 
> 
> Tweakalot - I've noticed the same hotspotting with my 8350, except it's close to the top left corner, I notice it when there is no picture and the iris hasn't kicked in yet. I have a high contrast gray screen with a 0 gain, I would venture to say it's not your screen.



on a pure black screen I see this as well. On my first unit it was really bad, with a ceiling mount it was the top left. on my 2nd unit I never notced since it had other issues, and on my 3rd I see similar issue in top right.


I only see it on totally black screens.


Mine is Ceiling mounted


----------



## tweakalot

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Darkhour* 
Tweakalot - I've noticed the same hotspotting with my 8350, except it's close to the top left corner, I notice it when there is no picture and the iris hasn't kicked in yet. I have a high contrast gray screen with a 0 gain, I would venture to say it's not your screen.
Well...this just complicate things further. I have had 2 Other Epson 8350 with the same result. So are you saying that all/most Epson 8350 has light issues? Is your screen an elite screen? Are you sure it's not dust blob you're seeing?

Btw, it appears that the hotspotting is diminishing with lamp age? Anyone experiencing anything similar?


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tweakalot*
Well...this just complicate things further. I have had 2 Other Epson 8350 with the same result. So are you saying that all/most Epson 8350 has light issues? Is your screen an elite screen? Are you sure it's not dust blob you're seeing?

Btw, it appears that the hotspotting is diminishing with lamp age? Anyone experiencing anything similar?
Nop... 105 hours on my 8350 and no hotspotting or light issues whatsoever.


----------



## tweakalot

[QUOTE TWEAKALOT: Hotspotting is usually a screen issue. What are you calling hot spotting? is it all colors, or just blacks or whites? what screen material are you using and how close is the PJ to screen. [/quote]


Thank you, I am aware that hotspotting is a screen issue more prevalent on vinyl, which appears to be my current screen material. The hotspotting color I'm referring to is WHITE but, like others have said, it can be seen in dark/black background too but, usually fades to black on dark/black scenes. However, On bright scenes, the hotspotting remains until the scene changes. Pj to screen is 12' 6" ceiling mounted.


----------



## tweakalot

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Nop... 105 hours on my 8350 and no hotspotting or light issues whatsoever.
What screen are you using? Are you viewing with super white and iris on/off?


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tweakalot*
What screen are you using? Are you viewing with super white and iris on/off?
I'm on my v2 of my DIY screens. The first was regular BOC from JoAnn fabrics where I was projecting on the white cloth side. I did not have hotspotting but I decided to give RS-MaxxMudd LL a try which lead me to my current v2 screen.


My current screen is also BOC from JoAnn fabrics but this time I am projecting onto the vinyl side which has been painted with RS-MaxxMudd LL and it looks great! No hotspotting at all, but guess what? Now I want to go with a 2.40:1 screen so tomorrow I start work in screen v3. This new screen will feature Silver Fire v2 sprayed onto drywall at a 2.40:1 AR.


On all my screens, I have always used Epson Super White ON and Auto Iris on High Speed.


My guess? There will be no hotspotting.


----------



## tweakalot

That's great, good luck to you. I am a diyer, however my current configuration will only allow for a motorized so I figured it would be best to go tension for longevity. So good luck to you.


----------



## ravenlocke

Using a 100 inch motorized Favi screen from Amazon with no hot-spotting whatsoever. Everyone comments that it looks like a huge LCD hanging on the wall.


----------



## helcik

hi folks,


some pictures of 8350 in my living room. it is projected on a grey wall, eco mode + cinema. the hot spot is the Da-Lite 2.4 sample. I took both angle and center photos.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hi folks,
> 
> 
> some pictures of 8350 in my living room. it is projected on a grey wall, eco mode + cinema. the hot spot is the Da-Lite 2.4 sample. I took both angle and center photos.



Are these on a grey wall or on a da-lite screen? If on a wall, what are your room dimensions and how is the ambient light if any while watching movies.


----------



## helcik

grey wall, I plan to go for Da-Lite, you can see a sample on my pictures.

room dims: 16'x17', lots of ambient light during the day. watching movies during the day does not provide that much fun as in the evening. Watching TV is OK, provided I set the living room color mode. Anyway, I hope it will benefit a lot when Da-Lite will be there.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> grey wall, I plan to go for Da-Lite, you can see a sample on my pictures.
> 
> room dims: 16'x17', lots of ambient light during the day. watching movies during the day does not provide that much fun as in the evening. Watching TV is OK, provided I set the living room color mode. Anyway, I hope it will benefit a lot when Da-Lite will be there.



Ok, and were those pics taken with plenty of ambient light around? I ask because those pics look very good and I am still debating whether I should go with a low gain grey screen as well. My room is smaller (12.5' x 14.5') and even though I have a completely light controlled dedicated ht room with black ceiling, black wall behing image and eggshell dark burgandy side and rear walls, i get a lot of ambient light bouncing around from the walls.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhour* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tweakalot - I've noticed the same hotspotting with my 8350, except it's close to the top left corner, I notice it when there is no picture and the iris hasn't kicked in yet. I have a high contrast gray screen with a 0 gain, I would venture to say it's not your screen.



I've seen this a few times with screens that aren't completely tight, especially around corners... Also, if lens shift is severe, chromatic aberration can mask itself as a hot spot.


----------



## russhater

So here is my take on this....I have been following this thread for a while; I bought the 8350 in December, but had to wait for my basement to be completed before I could really test it out. Finally, I put the projector up last night, and I am very happy with the results. We are projecting on a budget 125" Elite electric screen from 15' away, and although the screen is not the greatest, I was pretty happy with the picture when watching movies. When I turned on the Laker-Hornet playoff game, my jaw dropped. It was a trip to see life-size players right in my living room.


In all, with my monoprice in-wall speakers, monoprice mount that I modified to fit, and a budget screen, I bet I paid less than a 20% what one would normal expect to pay for a similiar set up with name-brand parts. And I would wager that I am achieving 80% of the benefit easily. If you can get 80% performance for 20% of the price...how can you lose?


Anyway, loving this thing. Can someone point me to how to best calibrate it? I know it has been mentioned a hundred times, but when I need it, I can't seem to find any advice. just my luck.


----------



## tweakalot

I am experiencing the same hotspotting as displayed in Tom Ace's post #1156 See link for pic: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...g#post20207620


----------



## helcik




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20363496
> 
> 
> Ok, and were those pics taken with plenty of ambient light around? I ask because those pics look very good and I am still debating whether I should go with a low gain grey screen as well. My room is smaller (12.5' x 14.5') and even though I have a completely light controlled dedicated ht room with black ceiling, black wall behing image and eggshell dark burgandy side and rear walls, i get a lot of ambient light bouncing around from the walls.



pics were taken in the evening. later, I can drop some day time pictures. My living room is open from 2 sides, so there was a bit light, but very little. Walls are grey, they reflect light a bit, but not too much. Maybe your screen does not handle ambient light too good. In that case a grey screen or Da-Lite HP might help.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> pics were taken in the evening. later, I can drop some day time pictures. My living room is open from 2 sides, so there was a bit light, but very little. Walls are grey, they reflect light a bit, but not too much. Maybe your screen does not handle ambient light too good. In that case a grey screen or Da-Lite HP might help.



Thats what Im thinking bc like i said, its a bat cave but yet when watching a movie, the room is well illuminated from the pj and the screen. The room is so small that i guess the screen itself is like an ambient light source. LOL Does that make sense? Is this really the case?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tweakalot* /forum/post/20363791
> 
> 
> I am experiencing the same hotspotting as displayed in Tom Ace's post #1156 See link for pic: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...g#post20207620



I see nothing like that from my setup. I am also 12'6" away from a Dalite high Power 2.4


----------



## helcik

hi newfmp3,


what are your settings, doesn't 2.4 gain burn your eyes?


you will not see any hot spotting on HP material.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russhater* /forum/post/20363669
> 
> 
> So here is my take on this....I have been following this thread for a while; I bought the 8350 in December, but had to wait for my basement to be completed before I could really test it out. Finally, I put the projector up last night, and I am very happy with the results. We are projecting on a budget 125" Elite electric screen from 15' away, and although the screen is not the greatest, I was pretty happy with the picture when watching movies. When I turned on the Laker-Hornet playoff game, my jaw dropped. It was a trip to see life-size players right in my living room.
> 
> 
> In all, with my monoprice in-wall speakers, monoprice mount that I modified to fit, and a budget screen, I bet I paid less than a 20% what one would normal expect to pay for a similiar set up with name-brand parts. And I would wager that I am achieving 80% of the benefit easily. If you can get 80% performance for 20% of the price...how can you lose?
> 
> 
> Anyway, loving this thing. Can someone point me to how to best calibrate it? I know it has been mentioned a hundred times, but when I need it, I can't seem to find any advice. just my luck.



Here you go:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


Take with a grain of salt. I did my own calibration using the Star Wars THX calibration tools, including the blue filter glasses and came up with far different settings, which I should note turn out to be very eye pleasing. I was disappointed to discover this projector was not capable of producing the shadow from the THX logo, indicating that it does not include a grey scale equal to my Pioneer plasma, but if I am honest, I knew that all along.


Does not diminish my absolute enjoyment of the picture quality of this projector in the least. My kids watched 'Space Buddies' on a regular DVD upscaled to 1080i (using an LG BD570 blu ray player) and it looked phenomenal.


----------



## flintstone

Well everyone, I have bought one of these today from Visual Apex (I am replacing my Infocus X-1) that you guys helped me pull the trigger on many years ago.


I don't like everything I have read about the Epson 8350, but I didn't like everything I read about the Infocus X-1 all those years ago either (and it has been outstanding...and still works!).


I'll be projecting at 15'4" on a white wall again (I never did put up a screen).....maybe some day (-:


Anyway.........I just wanted to thank you all once again (this truly is the best video forum on the web).


Dave


----------



## tweakalot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20363503
> 
> 
> I've seen this a few times with screens that aren't completely tight, especially around corners... Also, if lens shift is severe, chromatic aberration can mask itself as a hot spot.



Santi8, it's possible you are on to something here. How tight should the tension be? I minimized the use of shift during setup; however, I needed vertical more than horizontal after the install.

Thanks guys


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20364915
> 
> 
> hi newfmp3,
> 
> 
> what are your settings, doesn't 2.4 gain burn your eyes?
> 
> 
> you will not see any hot spotting on HP material.



You would want to Really Calibrate the White Levels with a Gain that High...


----------



## tweakalot

Update: after dimming lights pj off screen down. I viewed screen from its side with flashlight across but not touching screen. I observed some vertical waves from top but severe vertical are from bottom rail ( bowed black border). I attempted to remove waves with a blow dryer. Some wave were minimized and significant picture Improvement. I occasionally noticed the hotspotting on dynamic setting but they are not noticeable.


I am still struggling with the decision to RMA. I don't know if waves will reappear or worsen. Also on closer inspection, I have noticed multiple dimples on the vinyl screen material. They look like they were created by retracting a dirty screen ( small rock indents) I think I'll make a decision by the weekend.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I see nothing like that from my setup. I am also 12'6" away from a Dalite high Power 2.4



Cinema mode, Eco and in lighted conditions cinema and normal power. Brightness -10. The rest of the settings are a page or so back.


My epson is ceiling mounted with a telescopic mount. In my seating position the most gain I am getting is around 1.7 tops. Probably more like 1.5. As bulb ages I got two choices, lower pj or go to brighter pj settings ie living room mode.


But honestly, even with my eyes right next to lens level, cinema and normal power really isn't as bright as I thought it would be. We entertain a lot so the extra brightness is nice. Now dynamic is BRIGHT, but who uses that? I do feel the HP raises black levels a touch, not as bad as the older 2.8 HP but still a bit. I actually preferred my last screen with the 8350, and old m2500 draper angular reflective with around 2 gain but someone tore it, and you can not get the same material anymore....I tried, really tried.


----------



## Santi8

All screens are different however I have seen material that doesn't quite hit the frame the same all the way around and when this happens it can give an illusion of hot spotting. I dim my room light a bit and look at the screen on different angles with the projector off, imperfections stick out easily this way.


----------



## viper98912

Mine is ordered and on the way, woot


----------



## marcus blade

Hi folks, first time visitor here, as I recently purchased an 8350 and have some questions that perhaps you can answer. I had originally intended to place my 8350 in the corner of the living room on a media-type bookshelf, intending to utilize the horizontal lens shift to bring the image to the center of the room. I likely miscalculated, because I want the image to be maybe a foot more towards the center, and I have already maxed out the H shift. So I tried angling the projector, but of course that distorts the image and the 8350 doesn't have keystone correction to fix that. Any suggestions on what I can do? I want to avoid doing any type of ceiling mounting, and the last resort would be to switch up the placement and purchase some stand or table to place the 8350 closer to the center of the room. Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marcus blade* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks, first time visitor here, as I recently purchased an 8350 and have some questions that perhaps you can answer. I had originally intended to place my 8350 in the corner of the living room on a media-type bookshelf, intending to utilize the horizontal lens shift to bring the image to the center of the room. I likely miscalculated, because I want the image to be maybe a foot more towards the center, and I have already maxed out the H shift. So I tried angling the projector, but of course that distorts the image and the 8350 doesn't have keystone correction to fix that. Any suggestions on what I can do? I want to avoid doing any type of ceiling mounting, and the last resort would be to switch up the placement and purchase some stand or table to place the 8350 closer to the center of the room. Any help would be appreciated!



If you dont want to ceiling mount, then u will have to physically move the pj more towards the center of the room. I did this by putting up a wall shelf in the middle of my rear wall. Works perfect now.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marcus blade* /forum/post/20367999
> 
> 
> Hi folks, first time visitor here, as I recently purchased an 8350 and have some questions that perhaps you can answer. I had originally intended to place my 8350 in the corner of the living room on a media-type bookshelf, intending to utilize the horizontal lens shift to bring the image to the center of the room. I likely miscalculated, because I want the image to be maybe a foot more towards the center, and I have already maxed out the H shift. So I tried angling the projector, but of course that distorts the image and the 8350 doesn't have keystone correction to fix that. Any suggestions on what I can do? I want to avoid doing any type of ceiling mounting, and the last resort would be to switch up the placement and purchase some stand or table to place the 8350 closer to the center of the room. Any help would be appreciated!



Perhaps this may be a solution?

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...=3TPTHWCNQ1YWT 


.


----------



## dgehred

Hi Everyone,


Just got my new 8350 to replace my old InFocus IN76 720 PJ. Immediately out of the box I'm impressed by the image compared to my old one. I have a Carada 110" diagonal Critereon screen with Classic Cinema White 1.0 gain, and if anything I'm going to have dial down the brightness!


Anyway, on the left (and to some degree along the top) I notice a slight green shift and red shift at the edge of the image. If I look at the calibration image built into the Epson, the white lines at the edge on the right and bottom look fine, but the left side and some of the top line have color shifting going on giving them green/red glow. I'll try to take a snapshot of it.


Can this be corrected? I'm worried since it's not consistent across the entire image. Anyone else seen this?


Thanks,

-Dan


----------



## fedocable

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dgehred* 
Hi Everyone,


Can this be corrected? I'm worried since it's not consistent across the entire image. Anyone else seen this?


Thanks,

-Dan
In case this helps: I had a similar, very slight yellowing at the bottom line the first days. It would appear slowly during the projection. At first I was afraid it was a bad polarizer. But then this yellowing just dissapeared after some 30 hours of use. According to some opinions I´ve found on the web, this is "normal": polarizers may go through this colors shifts at first, until they stabilize. I wouldn´t know about that, but as it seems it happened in my case.

Hey, your previous Infocus is supposed to be one of the best projectors of its time; I would love to know how it compares to the Epson.


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dgehred* 
Anyway, on the left (and to some degree along the top) I notice a slight green shift and red shift at the edge of the image. If I look at the calibration image built into the Epson, the white lines at the edge on the right and bottom look fine, but the left side and some of the top line have color shifting going on giving them green/red glow. I'll try to take a snapshot of it.


Can this be corrected? I'm worried since it's not consistent across the entire image. Anyone else seen this?


Thanks,

-Dan
search for convergence in this thread. Welcome to LCD PJ's


----------



## fedocable

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
search for convergence in this thread. Welcome to LCD PJ's
Dgehred, if you only see this glow along the left and up white lines (and not along bottom and right) then it doesn´t sound like a convergence issue. I believe that if you had bad conversion, it would show on _every_ white line over darker background, no matter on what corner of the screen.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *fedocable*
Dgehred, if you only see this glow along the left and up white lines (and not along bottom and right) then it doesn´t sound like a convergence issue. I believe that if you had bad conversion, it would show on every white line over darker background, no matter on what corner of the screen.
+1 People quickly jump on the convergence bandwagon.


----------



## Santi8

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz*
+1 People quickly jump on the convergence bandwagon.
So true! Next someone will tell him it's a dust blob, go DLP!


My question for him would be, how much lens shift are you using?


----------



## dgehred

Lame question - how do I just search this thread only?


I have the PJ on a table for now, with the lens shifted slightly up. I'll try playing with the lens shift a bit, trying to see if the "click" center position improves it at all.


My friend is coming over with the Spears & Munsil calibration Blu-ray disc shortly so he'll be able to weigh in also.


I take it convergence issues are common with these PJs (and any LCD ones?)?


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dgehred*
Lame question - how do I just search this thread only?


I have the PJ on a table for now, with the lens shifted slightly up. I'll try playing with the lens shift a bit, trying to see if the "click" center position improves it at all.


My friend is coming over with the Spears & Munsil calibration Blu-ray disc shortly so he'll be able to weigh in also.


I take it convergence issues are common with these PJs (and any LCD ones?)?
Your problem doesn't seem to be convergence related. For the most part when its a convergence issue, you will see it throughout the image. Let your pj accumulate some hours and see how it goes. As someone else said before, he had a similar problem and it went away after a few hours of use.


----------



## Santi8

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dgehred*
Lame question - how do I just search this thread only?


I have the PJ on a table for now, with the lens shifted slightly up. I'll try playing with the lens shift a bit, trying to see if the "click" center position improves it at all.


My friend is coming over with the Spears & Munsil calibration Blu-ray disc shortly so he'll be able to weigh in also.


I take it convergence issues are common with these PJs (and any LCD ones?)?
They are common, but usually across the whole screen. Corners and edges, more often than not is chromatic aberration from lens shift. I have right shift and notice a slight purple glow on the right edge of my screen. Annoyed the hell out of me so I just shifted it over the black velvet border!


----------



## dgehred




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20369127
> 
> 
> They are common, but usually across the whole screen. Corners and edges, more often than not is chromatic aberration from lens shift. I have right shift and notice a slight purple glow on the right edge of my screen. Annoyed the hell out of me so I just shifted it over the black velvet border!



So it didn't go away after a few hours?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgehred* /forum/post/20368165
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just got my new 8350 to replace my old InFocus IN76 720 PJ. Immediately out of the box I'm impressed by the image compared to my old one. I have a Carada 110" diagonal Critereon screen with Classic Cinema White 1.0 gain, and if anything I'm going to have dial down the brightness!
> 
> 
> Anyway, on the left (and to some degree along the top) I notice a slight green shift and red shift at the edge of the image. If I look at the calibration image built into the Epson, the white lines at the edge on the right and bottom look fine, but the left side and some of the top line have color shifting going on giving them green/red glow. I'll try to take a snapshot of it.
> 
> 
> Can this be corrected? I'm worried since it's not consistent across the entire image. Anyone else seen this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Dan



Like this?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19500695


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgehred* /forum/post/20369691
> 
> 
> So it didn't go away after a few hours?



post a pic of it, let some of the pro's see it....I ain't no pro. But lots of good folks here to help


----------



## KaptainKrypton

Received mine from P.P. a day or so ago. Ceiling mounted and race ready, the thing looks great. I'm using a 120" Elite SableFrame Fixed model and so far, so good. I've tested Xbox 360 and several BR discs, as well as some content streamed from my HTPC. Color me impressed where the image quality is concerned. My Disney WOW disc doesn't arrive until tomorrow, but even with the stock color modes I've very little to complain about. It's a heavy step up in image quality from my Optoma HD66, for sure (not to mention in physical size!). The clarity and daytime performance were the biggest things I've noticed. Black levels were also solid. I'll temporarily plug in some of the settings I've found from a couple of other reviewer sites and see how those do for me until I give the WOW disc it's trial run. Man, I scored a fat package deal from P.P. as well. I don't really like camping, but I am happy.


----------



## Patrick McGuire




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20364969
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php
> 
> 
> Take with a grain of salt. I did my own calibration using the Star Wars THX calibration tools, including the blue filter glasses and came up with far different settings, which I should note turn out to be very eye pleasing. I was disappointed to discover this projector was not capable of producing the shadow from the THX logo, indicating that it does not include a grey scale equal to my Pioneer plasma, but if I am honest, I knew that all along.
> 
> 
> Does not diminish my absolute enjoyment of the picture quality of this projector in the least. My kids watched 'Space Buddies' on a regular DVD upscaled to 1080i (using an LG BD570 blu ray player) and it looked phenomenal.



Go to MENU-SIGNAL-ADVANCED-HDMI VIDEO RANGE- choose EXPANDED

You will then be able to see the THX shadow.


----------



## WereWolf84

Hi, anyone using this projector ceiling mount bracket for Epson 8350? it has 3 arms only, I'm not sure whether it's fit the 8350 or not, so I need some reviews for this bracket from you guys


----------



## jste86

I recently purchased my epson 8350 from Projector People. They gave me a great deal on this and a elite screen ezframe.


I got the screen set up and mounted the projector in the closet. Everything was looking great, until I noticed that the screen was tilted slightly. I figured it was something to do with my mounting job on my shelf, so I checked it for level. It was pretty much dead on. I started moving around the knobs on the projector to level it out, and this did NOTHING. The picture continued to tilted.


Then, my wonderful girlfriend, noticed on the pattern test that one side of the pattern was smaller than the other. After further inspection we determined that this was exactly the case.


So, I called up projector people and they had me send a picture of this is issue. I got an email back saying it was a convergence issue and that I needed to call epson... sounds like a lens problem to me.


I call espon and after a relatively painless talk with a "technician" I was told that it was indeed this "convergence" issue.. again I don't know about that. They then talked about overnighting me another projector if I wanted to put a 1400 dollar hold on an account until they got the next projector. I have always been weird about this, so I decided not to go this option...just because of the fact that you never know what can happen.


So I had to box the broken epson up and they said once they get it back they will send me the new one. I thought it was pretty "cheap" that the free fed ex shipping was with 3 day economy saver... I figured it would be an overnight.. since its their problem.


So hopefully I'll have a projector in the mail by the end of the week. Do you think they will at least overnight that one?


----------



## helcik

convergence is not about one part of the screen smaller than other one. your PJ was probably not perpendicular to the screen. could that be the case?


----------



## newfmp3

I have a 8700ub here tonight. The difference is pretty dramatic. I do not have a lot of time tonight, but the thing has impressed me so far.


Get this, convergence is darn near perfect. I can't even say half a pixel off. Totally impressed. The sharpness on this unit is very impressive and with the super resolution option if you choose to use it, it can actually get too sharp. That is a nice problem to have, of course you can dial it back but with the 8350's that I have had, I just could not get it sharp enough. Again, with the units that I have had.


No motion issues, color pops more, blacks a touch better...nice. Is it a 1000 bucks nicer? Probably not, it's not twice the projector but certainly better.


Anyways, back to work...boo, but I have now seen, after 3 replacements that Epson can indeed have great convergence when done right.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> convergence is not about one part of the screen smaller than other one. your PJ was probably not perpendicular to the screen. could that be the case?



agreed


----------



## BKSRU

At 8700UB the same problems with convergence.

All business in luck







.

But at 8700UB two additional excellent functions. And both, considerably, raise clearness:

- Super Resolution

- Frame Interpolation


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20386441
> 
> 
> At 8700UB the same problems with convergence.
> 
> All business in luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> But at 8700UB two additional excellent functions. And both, considerably, raise clearness:
> 
> - Super Resolution
> 
> - Frame Interpolation



Yup, and if I keep this one I'll be out of this thread for good. lol


But my point being, there are Epsons with excellent convergence. Whether another issue pops up? With my luck, I'd say before end of the week or at least month something else will go wrong.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20386441
> 
> 
> At 8700UB the same problems with convergence.
> 
> All business in luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> But at 8700UB two additional excellent functions. And both, considerably, raise clearness:
> 
> - Super Resolution
> 
> - Frame Interpolation



Yup, and if I keep this one I'll be out of this thread for good. lol


But my point being, there are Epsons with excellent convergence.


I'll Give Epson props though, they are trying to do what they can.


----------



## BKSRU

At me a ridiculous fortune , but typical







. 50/50







:

Half of screen with bad convergence.

Half of screen with excellent convergence.

But from 1 meter the black text on a white background precise.


There is an interesting supervision:

- Convergence does not depend from Lens shift.

- But from Lens shift Strongly chromatic Aberrations depend.

It is often possible to notice essential increase in clearness if to turn a projector.


----------



## ravenlocke

Well, here is my 3 month update! I have put 361 hours on the bulb so far and things are still looking good. No dust blobs knock on wood and I have yet to clean the filter. Actually I think I will do that today while I am still thinking about it. My convergence is spot on, less then half a pixel for any color and I am still in love with the picture quality. One big plus I noticed about this projector after going to a buddies house and viewing his hc4000 is the quality of the dynamic setting for color accuracy and still decent black levels. His black levels are washed to hell on dynamic in a light controlled room and mine are several shades deeper and richer and thats in my living room! I still havent experienced any lens drift and my iris is still as quiet as can be. I have been very pleased with my purchase in every regard.


----------



## mjg100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20385698
> 
> 
> convergence is not about one part of the screen smaller than other one. your PJ was probably not perpendicular to the screen. could that be the case?



I agree. That was my first thought also. He needed to swing the whole projector toward the side with the smaller grid until the image was the same height and then use horizontal lens shift to center the image.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patrick McGuire* /forum/post/20381476
> 
> 
> Go to MENU-SIGNAL-ADVANCED-HDMI VIDEO RANGE- choose EXPANDED
> 
> You will then be able to see the THX shadow.



THANK YOU! I can't wait to try this!! Wish me luck.


----------



## viper98912

Picked up my 8350 from UPS today. First off was wow, this box is huge. It barely fit in my trunk, hadta crush the outside box a little bit to get it through the trunk opening and there was only an inch or two before it hit the back seat.


Once I got it home, the inside Epson box wasn't that much smaller! One thing I was concerned about was that my box was double taped - as if it had been opened already; was this possibly a return, something that I was supposed to get brand new?


Everything inside seemed pristine and unopened, from the tape to the foam to the pages in the manual. So for now I'll assume that it is brand new, but the double tape did bug me a bit. Everything in the menu settings did seem stock and at zero.


It definitely is a big unit, but isn't that heavy. I thought it would be heavier. I was a little surprised by the looseness of the lens shift. When you scroll the wheel, it seems like a very loose connection/fit. It isn't something that feels solid. Are yours like this?


I put a white screen up with text, and the red seems to be 1 pixel off to the left and green seems to be 1 pixel off to the right.


Regardless, projected on my 100" screen, you cannot tell anything. It looks crisp and clear and sharp. And great! I'm loving my new projector setup. For the audio and videophiles, you are definitely much pickier than I am. For the basic consumer with high standards on an economical budget, this has been a great purchase.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Picked up my 8350 from UPS today. First off was wow, this box is huge. It barely fit in my trunk, hadta crush the outside box a little bit to get it through the trunk opening and there was only an inch or two before it hit the back seat.
> 
> 
> Once I got it home, the inside Epson box wasn't that much smaller! One thing I was concerned about was that my box was double taped - as if it had been opened already; was this possibly a return, something that I was supposed to get brand new?
> 
> 
> Everything inside seemed pristine and unopened, from the tape to the foam to the pages in the manual. So for now I'll assume that it is brand new, but the double tape did bug me a bit. Everything in the menu settings did seem stock and at zero.
> 
> 
> It definitely is a big unit, but isn't that heavy. I thought it would be heavier. I was a little surprised by the looseness of the lens shift. When you scroll the wheel, it seems like a very loose connection/fit. It isn't something that feels solid. Are yours like this?
> 
> 
> I put a white screen up with text, and the red seems to be 1 pixel off to the left and green seems to be 1 pixel off to the right.
> 
> 
> Regardless, projected on my 100" screen, you cannot tell anything. It looks crisp and clear and sharp. And great! I'm loving my new projector setup. For the audio and videophiles, you are definitely much pickier than I am. For the basic consumer with high standards on an economical budget, this has been a great purchase.



Congrats on your purchase! It's safe to say that 1 pixel off on each side is about normal for the Epson 8350. Mine also has it and it doesn't affect the image whatsoever. Enjoy it!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20390653
> 
> 
> 
> It definitely is a big unit, but isn't that heavy. I thought it would be heavier. I was a little surprised by the looseness of the lens shift. When you scroll the wheel, it seems like a very loose connection/fit. It isn't something that feels solid. Are yours like this?
> 
> 
> .



Welcome to the awesome Epson lens shift.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1303396 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049 


.


----------



## vullcan

About 1200 hours in now, and I have a perfect circle that appeared (with the diameter of a dollar bill on a 120" screen). It is hard to see it so it doesn't bother me that much, and only really noticeable on a black background.


It has a green / yellowish tint to it. Any idea what that is? Its not a dust blob right, because a dust blob I would be able to see on a white background too?? Its really perfectly round, I bet i could get out a protractor and it would be just right.



Kind of dont think I should send it in to have this fixed, with all the talk of people having bad units.


----------



## jste86




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20385698
> 
> 
> convergence is not about one part of the screen smaller than other one. your PJ was probably not perpendicular to the screen. could that be the case?



We went through that while talking to the projector people... we moved it towards the left... right.. back... took it off the shelf and put it on a bench to see what that would do... moved it to the left.... right... left... pretty much spent a good 40 minutes trying to get the image to even change a little.


Then I went through it again with the epson people. I've had a projector before and never had this trouble.


Im sure the next one will be good though!


----------



## coachal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20277294
> 
> 
> I should have pulled the trigger on this unit 3 weeks ago, Amazon now has them in stock "In 1 to 2 months"



I got mine at ABC Warehouse for 1050.00 about 4 weeks ago


----------



## flintstone

Fingers crossed.......my tracking says my 8350 is on the FedEx truck for delivery.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flintstone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fingers crossed.......my tracking says my 8350 is on the FedEx truck for delivery.



LOL Gotta love that feeling! Peeking out the window every 5 minutes LOL


----------



## cbeck23

At the point where the decision for purchasing is near, need some info. With console game machines and cell phones there is a set time before launch when info on the product leaks out.


-Would that be the same for projectors?

I am debating on getting 8350 now, or waiting till Oct-Nov for the newest version. It seems like the jump from 8100 to the 8350 was decent, but not sure if I can wait. I want it, I want it, I want it.


Did I mention I want it?


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20388320
> 
> 
> THANK YOU! I can't wait to try this!! Wish me luck.



That totally worked!!! Thanks again.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/20392684
> 
> 
> At the point where the decision for purchasing is near, need some info. With console game machines and cell phones there is a set time before launch when info on the product leaks out.
> 
> 
> -Would that be the same for projectors?
> 
> I am debating on getting 8350 now, or waiting till Oct-Nov for the newest version. It seems like the jump from 8100 to the 8350 was decent, but not sure if I can wait. I want it, I want it, I want it.
> 
> 
> Did I mention I want it?



Get it now. You won't regret it at all. It is an amazing projector. If Epson releases a new one, it is unlikely to be much better.


----------



## WereWolf84

Hi, anyone using this projector ceiling mount bracket for Epson 8350? it has 3 arms only, I'm not sure whether it's fit the 8350 or not, so I need some reviews for this bracket from you guys


----------



## flintstone

FedEx didn't break it, and it came around two hours ago. All I did so far is make sure it works, and it does! Picture right out of the box is very good IMO.


I'll mount it tomorrow, and then tweak it. (although it looks fantastic as is).


----------



## ERuiz

Quick question guys... When calibrating the pj and using it afterwards, should HDMI Video range be set to Normal or Expanded?


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20394794
> 
> 
> Quick question guys... When calibrating the pj and using it afterwards, should HDMI Video range be set to Normal or Expanded?



It is important, that the player would work in the same range.

It can be defined a trial and error method. It is not a lot of variants.

Excuse for my English. I hope me understand.


----------



## HDRookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> About 1200 hours in now, and I have a perfect circle that appeared (with the diameter of a dollar bill on a 120" screen). It is hard to see it so it doesn't bother me that much, and only really noticeable on a black background.
> 
> 
> It has a green / yellowish tint to it. Any idea what that is? Its not a dust blob right, because a dust blob I would be able to see on a white background too?? Its really perfectly round, I bet i could get out a protractor and it would be just right.
> 
> 
> Kind of dont think I should send it in to have this fixed, with all the talk of people having bad units.



Sounds like a dust blob to me...I can only see them on black screen on my older Optoma. I've always assumed that's what it is anyway. Surprised nobody else hasn't chimed in. Good luck.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is important, that the player would work in the same range.
> 
> It can be defined a trial and error method. It is not a lot of variants.
> 
> Excuse for my English. I hope me understand.



The player in question is the PS3. I use the PS3 for streaming, bluray movies and of course, gaming...


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20394930
> 
> 
> The player in question is the PS3. I use the PS3 for streaming, bluray movies and of course, gaming...



It is complex to answer such questions on not the native language.

Probably it will help you:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...nfo-guide.html 
http://tw3200.blogspot.com/ 

If wish to leave deep are black and to not lose a detail in shadows, it is necessary to make efforts







.


----------



## cbeck23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20394482
> 
> 
> Get it now. You won't regret it at all. It is an amazing projector. If Epson releases a new one, it is unlikely to be much better.



Thanks Manos. I guess you can tell I want it. Any others like to chime in?


Does anyone know how long in advance of hitting the market, we would hear specs on the newest projector?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Manos. I guess you can tell I want it. Any others like to chime in?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how long in advance of hitting the market, we would hear specs on the newest projector?



Go for it, bro! You won't regret it.


----------



## joeags

The Epson 8350 was announced on September 23, 2010. Projectorreviews.com got one in house to test around the same time, quick comments were posted a week later, and a full review 2-3 weeks after that. The street date was October 16 for the 8350 on Amazon for a 3rd party seller, and November 12 when Amazon got them in stock themselves.


The review is quite important, as specs were released and people hoped the contrast and other ratings were accurate, but tested was 25% lower than spec'ed out at. So with the next projector, you could get increased specs, but that doesn't mean it will necessarily be that much better.


Another point... Panasonic didn't release an upgraded model this year. I think a few other manufacturer's have been the same. There's no guarantee that you will have a new projector released, although history says there will be one.


So... if you want to wait for a new one, you're going to be waiting 6 months. 5 months for specs. It will no doubt be another incremental increase. You'll be paying at least a hundred more than you would now, as you'll be at the release price. Are you the type of person who will then say "oh, the price will be dropping..."? Because then you'll be waiting a few more months for that to happen. Then are you going to be wondering what the next model will be like?


At some point you have to just jump in. I won't say to do it now, but I think I gave you the statistics that you're looking for.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/20395246
> 
> 
> Thanks Manos. I guess you can tell I want it. Any others like to chime in?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how long in advance of hitting the market, we would hear specs on the newest projector?


----------



## BKSRU

In it to year they have applied VA LCD panels in the bottom segment.

Probably in the following will add polarizer DeepBlack?


----------



## ERuiz

Just FYI, I ran some numbers on the Carlton Bale spreadsheet HT calculator and with 732 lumens from living room mode and a screen gain of 1.1, I should be in the ballpark of 21fl... This seems just about right since the image does look good with pop.


How did I come up with these numbers?


According to Projector Central's review, it says living room mode produces about 951 lumens. Since I run the pj in eco mode, this is a 23% drop in lumens, so 951 minus 23% equals 732 lumens.


For the calculator, I entered 2.40 AR, 125" diag, 1.1 gain (SF v2 4.0), 732 lumens and this gave me a result of 20.9fl...


----------



## Manos777

I was disappointed when I noticed that I could not see the THX shadow on the THX calibration section of my Star Wars DVD, thinking this meant this projector was not capable of showing it.


I was heartened to hear that the problem was that I had not set the HDMI range on "Expanded", which allowed me to see all 10 shades of grey, including the drop down shadow.


But then I discovered that whenever I set the Epson Super White to "On", the HDMI Expanded range options became greyed out, meaning I could not set it to expanded anymore, and I lost the shadow.


I'm not sure if this is a design flaw, or what people think, but after comparing, I believe using expanded hdmi range creates a superior image with more range of shades of black is more important to creating a higher PQ than any benefit I get from Epson Super White.


Any thoughts?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20397284
> 
> 
> I was disappointed when I noticed that I could not see the THX shadow on the THX calibration section of my Star Wars DVD, thinking this meant this projector was not capable of showing it.
> 
> 
> I was heartened to hear that the problem was that I had not set the HDMI range on "Expanded", which allowed me to see all 10 shades of grey, including the drop down shadow.
> 
> 
> But then I discovered that whenever I set the Epson Super White to "On", the HDMI Expanded range options became greyed out, meaning I could not set it to expanded anymore, and I lost the shadow.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if this is a design flaw, or what people think, but after comparing, I believe using expanded hdmi range creates a superior image with more range of shades of black is more important to creating a higher PQ than any benefit I get from Epson Super White.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



funny you mention this as I was setting up the 8700 last night and I was second guessing whether or not I understood the whole hdmi expanded and normal, super white nonsense. I seen the same issues you mention with the 8700 and the 8350's I had using PS3 as source.


This might help

http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...els-xvycc-rgb/ 


it doesn't seem to be a easy quick answer as to which to use.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> funny you mention this as I was setting up the 8700 last night and I was second guessing whether or not I understood the whole hdmi expanded and normal, super white nonsense. I seen the same issues you mention with the 8700 and the 8350's I had using PS3 as source.
> 
> 
> This might help
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...els-xvycc-rgb/
> 
> 
> it doesn't seem to be a clear answer as to which to use, and once you adjust brightness and contrast for each, there isn't much difference.



Yup, I agree. But to be on the safe side, I would set the PS3 HDMI Video Range to LIMITED, the pj's HDMI Range to normal, which boosts your shadows and then calibrate. Yes, once calibrated the brightness will drop again a bit but not as bad as when setting the ps3 to FULL.


----------



## newfmp3

The Super White thing is the one that gets me. I do not see the point of it. Same goes for the x.v color thing which looks horrible.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Super White thing is the one that gets me. I do not see the point of it. Same goes for the x.v color thing which looks horrible.



Imagine if all 5 modes looked beautiful and were perfect? Then we would complain that it's hard to decide which mode to use. LOL


----------



## pacemaker

super white screws up calibration.

i never use it or see its poimt










i believe its best to set source and display to 16-235. thats the way its made, so avoid expanding only to compress it agian later


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
The Super White thing is the one that gets me. I do not see the point of it. Same goes for the x.v color thing which looks horrible.
I believe this is meant to deal with Sony x.v. color sources, like a signal from one of their camcorders or video taps made in that mode. I found using x.v. color when playing standard DVDs or BluRay discs to wash out the colors and decrease the contrast much too much for my taste.


I read the article on HDMI expanded range and found it to be way too hypertechnical. My eyes tell me SuperWhite does nothing for me, while taking away the range of brightness that allows for calibration to THX standards. In other words, Super White decreases my PJ ability to show the darkest shades of black thereby reducing detail in dark areas of a movie. This is not an area this pj can afford to sacrifice as black levels are its achilles heel, in my opinion.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Yup, I agree. But to be on the safe side, I would set the PS3 HDMI Video Range to LIMITED, the pj's HDMI Range to normal, which boosts your shadows and then calibrate. Yes, once calibrated the brightness will drop again a bit but not as bad as when setting the ps3 to FULL.
I would set it to Expanded, not Normal, for a full range of dark greys, from normal grey to below black, for proper calibration.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Manos777* 
I would set it to Expanded, not Normal, for a full range of dark greys, from normal grey to below black, for proper calibration.
But if you set the pj to HDMI Expanded, isn't that RGB? If you do this, then you need to set the PS3 hdmi range to FULL so they both match. I thought we shoot for HDMI normal on the pj and hdmi limited on the PS3?


----------



## jasonl176

ive been eyeing this pj for a bit now as well, but the whole dust blob thing is whats keeping me from pulling the trigger.


Is this guarenteed to happen? or am i just seeing the posts on it which makes it seem that way.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jasonl176* 
ive been eyeing this pj for a bit now as well, but the whole dust blob thing is whats keeping me from pulling the trigger.


Is this guarenteed to happen? or am i just seeing the posts on it which makes it seem that way.
No guarantee it will happen. I for one have a brand new 8350 with no dust blob whatsoever, and I'm already up to 160 hours of use. And just like me, I know there are MANY users on this forum without dust blob issues. Does it happen? Yes. But it shouldn't hold you back from buying and enjoying this awesome PJ.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonl176* /forum/post/20399092
> 
> 
> ive been eyeing this pj for a bit now as well, but the whole dust blob thing is whats keeping me from pulling the trigger.
> 
> 
> Is this guaranteed to happen? or am i just seeing the posts on it which makes it seem that way.



Even being the "Thread Starter" doesn't make me biased toward this unit....however my own personal experience at having installed 14 separate units and their having come from at least 3 different sources....all in a variety of situations, with nary a Dust Blob to be seen or a Bulb gone south. Pixel convergence has never been off more than 1 pixel in any instance. No banding...no Shading or discoloration in corners......


....it's like this. The 8350 is the singularly most popular PJ ever. Period. The stats don't lie. With so many end users...and many of them who frequent AVS, a disproportionate number of issues are seemingly brought to attention...and all of them to one place. This thread. But also consider the far greater numbers of those heralding the 8350's charms,with the vast majority of them being exceedingly Happy Campers sitting around, basking in the glow of vibrant projected images.


And don't look to find anyone stating that Epson doesn't do back flips as far as addressing issues and complaints. In that respect, everyone is in total agreement that we are seeing something out of the ordinary as far as Customer Support.


It's hard not to be a bit biased about a $1200.00 1-80p 2000 lumen 50,000:1 CR gem of a PJ like the 8350........



.....but I'm not.


----------



## cbeck23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags* /forum/post/20395680
> 
> 
> The Epson 8350 was announced on September 23, 2010. Projectorreviews.com got one in house to test around the same time, quick comments were posted a week later, and a full review 2-3 weeks after that. The street date was October 16 for the 8350 on Amazon for a 3rd party seller, and November 12 when Amazon got them in stock themselves.
> 
> 
> The review is quite important, as specs were released and people hoped the contrast and other ratings were accurate, but tested was 25% lower than spec'ed out at. So with the next projector, you could get increased specs, but that doesn't mean it will necessarily be that much better.
> 
> 
> Another point... Panasonic didn't release an upgraded model this year. I think a few other manufacturer's have been the same. There's no guarantee that you will have a new projector released, although history says there will be one.
> 
> 
> So... if you want to wait for a new one, you're going to be waiting 6 months. 5 months for specs. It will no doubt be another incremental increase. You'll be paying at least a hundred more than you would now, as you'll be at the release price. Are you the type of person who will then say "oh, the price will be dropping..."? Because then you'll be waiting a few more months for that to happen. Then are you going to be wondering what the next model will be like?
> 
> 
> At some point you have to just jump in. I won't say to do it now, but I think I gave you the statistics that you're looking for.




Thanks for all the opinions guys. Keep it coming. Joeags, you are killing me. I just about had myself ready to wait till Nov. I already had Nov in my mind, but your note is swinging me back. I waited this long because I wanted to pay off some bills. Now, I can get it and I thought maybe I can wait for the new one. I would get a tablet PC as my hold-over gadget and the rest of the money I would place the rest in a Xmas club.


They few people I have spoken to have not been on the angel side of shoulder....lol


----------



## doc750

purchased mine this morning, should be here tomorrow. Can't wait! I figure I have at least two years until they sort out the 3D issues and bring it down to an affordable price.


----------



## helcik

hi all,


So far I am using out of the box settings + some minor tweaks for my taste. Would the calibration change significally the picture? What about brightness, do I understand correctly, that calibrating the PJ drops the lumens?


How do you calibrate your PJ, any specific tools, procedures?


Please, explain briefly or point me to some knowledge source.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, anyone using this projector ceiling mount bracket for Epson 8350? it has 3 arms only, I'm not sure whether it's fit the 8350 or not, so I need some reviews for this bracket from you guys



I don't own this mount, but I know that three arms will hold the Epson, because it is so light. However, why buy the wrong mount? A good mount is VERY important to stability of the image, and ease of adjustment. I love my Chief, and don't regret buying it. A good mount is essential to your home theater enjoyment!


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, I agree. But to be on the safe side, I would set the PS3 HDMI Video Range to LIMITED, the pj's HDMI Range to normal, which boosts your shadows and then calibrate. Yes, once calibrated the brightness will drop again a bit but not as bad as when setting the ps3 to FULL.



Setting both ps3 to full and the projector to extended results in equally dynamic shadows, but with better color range. If setting both crushes your blacks, your Hdmi cable or receiver is not 1.3 compliant.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Setting both ps3 to full and the projector to extended results in equally dynamic shadows, but with better color range. If setting both crushes your blacks, your Hdmi cable or receiver is not 1.3 compliant.



Hmmmmm now Im all confused lol


I thought that running the ps3 on FULL would make it send video in RGB (0-254) format where ideally, you would want it to send the video in the same format as DVD/BD are encoded which is 16-235 or something like that.


My understanding was that in order to make the PS3 send the video as 16-235, you set the ps3 hdmi range to limited and set the pj's hdmi range to normal.


Can someone please clear this up?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20400529
> 
> 
> I don't own this mount, but I know that three arms will hold the Epson, because it is so light. However, why buy the wrong mount? A good mount is VERY important to stability of the image, and ease of adjustment. I love my Chief, and don't regret buying it. A good mount is essential to your home theater enjoyment!



it's not so much 3 legs vs 4 as it is max allowable weight. The Epson is not "light" nor is it heavy, but it is large enough for me to recommend NOT cheaping out on the mount. Considering how many times I've replaced my Epson so far I could not be happier that I bought a good mount. I have a Peerless PPA-S. Less then 5mins to swap PJ's and no re-aligning or leveling needed.


Chief very good too.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm now Im all confused lol
> 
> 
> I thought that running the ps3 on FULL would make it send video in RGB (0-254) format where ideally, you would want it to send the video in the same format as DVD/BD are encoded which is 16-235 or something like that.
> 
> 
> My understanding was that in order to make the PS3 send the video as 16-235, you set the ps3 hdmi range to limited and set the pj's hdmi range to normal.
> 
> 
> Can someone please clear this up?



I actually set my bluray playback output to rgb as well in the ps3 settings Eruiz. This combined with the full settings resulted in richer blacks for me without crush. Also it completely eliminated the red haze issue I had with a small number of blurays. Give it a try and see what you think!


----------



## ERuiz

.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> from audioholics
> 
> 
> I'll say it again: Blu-ray and HD DVD movie formats are limited to 8-bit 4:2:0 YCbCr. To our knowledge, there is no move to add xvYCC expanded color capability to the BD-ROM specification. In addition, issues of backwards compatibility would be extremely difficult to overcome, rendering any new 10-bit or higher formats unplayable on legacy BD players. The only solution would be to take advantage of larger BD storage media and issue discs with dual data streams for video (double sided or dual layer if you will).
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...els-xvycc-rgb/



So is this how both the PS3 and pj should be set to?


PS3 - BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) = RGB

PS3 - HDMI Video Range = FULL

PJ - HDMI Range = EXTENDED


----------



## ERuiz

@newfmp3, I re-read that whole article again (read it yesterday) and it seems like it's the way I had initially thought. Thanks for that great link. According to the link, these should be the correct settings for a PS3/Epson 8350 combo:


PS3 - BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) = Y Cb/Cr

PS3 - HDMI Video Range = LIMITED

PJ - HDMI Range = NORMAL


If you still can't see the "blacker than black" images or bars on your cal disc, then you need to switch the PJ's HDMI Range to EXPANDED.


If you still don't see them, then they are getting clipped by your receiver or hdmi cable is not compatible.


This is my understanding by reading that article.


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20402288
> 
> 
> @newfmp3, I re-read that whole article again (read it yesterday) and it seems like it's the way I had initially thought. Thanks for that great link. According to the link, these should be the correct settings for a PS3/Epson 8350 combo:
> 
> 
> PS3 - BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) = Y Cb/Cr
> 
> PS3 - HDMI Video Range = LIMITED
> 
> PJ - HDMI Range = NORMAL
> 
> 
> If you still can't see the "blacker than black" images or bars on your cal disc, then you need to switch the PJ's HDMI Range to EXPANDED.
> 
> 
> If you still don't see them, then they are getting clipped by your receiver or hdmi cable is not compatible.
> 
> 
> This is my understanding by reading that article.



I have been trying to figure this out with my 8100 for a while now.


PS3 always set to YcbCr

PS3 set to limited and projector set to normal and super white on: no WTW or BTB


PS3 Set to limited projector set to Expanded with Super Whiteoff: BTB and WTW do pass, but it seems that shadow detail suffers and contrast is less even after correcting brightness and contrast.


I haven't tried setting the PS3 to FULL and Projector to Expanded, but this seems like the wrong range for BD/DVD which are 16-235. I could try it though.



Anyone else have a more definitive answer? Also, does anyone know if you should calibrate brightness and contrast with the dynamic iris on or off if you intent to use it?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curlyjive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have been trying to figure this out with my 8100 for a while now.
> 
> 
> PS3 always set to YcbCr
> 
> PS3 set to limited and projector set to normal and super white on: no WTW or BTB
> 
> 
> PS3 Set to limited projector set to Expanded with Super Whiteoff: BTB and WTW do pass, but it seems that shadow detail suffers and contrast is less even after correcting brightness and contrast.
> 
> 
> I haven't tried setting the PS3 to FULL and Projector to Expanded, but this seems like the wrong range for BD/DVD which are 16-235. I could try it though.
> 
> 
> Anyone else have a more definitive answer? Also, does anyone know if you should calibrate brightness and contrast with the dynamic iris on or off if you intent to use it?



Exactly what I have been experiencing... can you please try ps3-full, pj-expanded and see what happens? Do u also need to change ps3-output to rgb instead of Y CrCb? Really appreciate! As for calibrating with iris on or off, you need to leave it OFF while calibrating.


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20402743
> 
> 
> Exactly what I have been experiencing... can you please try ps3-full, pj-expanded and see what happens? Do u also need to change ps3-output to rgb instead of Y CrCb? Really appreciate! As for calibrating with iris on or off, you need to leave it OFF while calibrating.



I'd leave it as Ycbcr, as that is what BD/DVS is. I am not sure about the iris though. I can see your point, but here is the problem:


IF you calibrate brightness with the iris off than the level you set will be lower since the projector will be brighter. Then during dark scenes when the iris closes, it will likely be crushing black detail. If you set brightness using just a disc like spears and munsil which gives you a black background with the 3 stripes, then with the iris on your are setting the level of black closer to how it will be during dark scenes in a movie and you can verify that the appropriate bars are visible.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

A projector iris just makes the entire image brighter or darker, but it doesn't change which levels are visible (i.e. it won't crush blacks). OTOH many displays have other dynamic settings that should be turned off because they can affect the calibration.


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/20402973
> 
> 
> A projector iris just makes the entire image brighter or darker, but it doesn't change which levels are visible (i.e. it won't crush blacks). OTOH many displays have other dynamic settings that should be turned off because they can affect the calibration.



Crush isn't the right term, I agree. But I would still think it would make dark scenes too dark. Take a starfield for example. Adjust brightness both with the iris open and then closed. I would bet that with settings done with the iris open you will see less stars once you turn the iris back on.


By the same token, the brighter image with the iris open will mean that the black bars will be brighter with the iris open and you're brightness settings will likely be a few clicks lower until the BTB bar disappears. SO then when you re-engage the iris, that same pattern may also hide the next bar in the pattern. Does that make sense? So I just wonder which is the correct way to do it?


----------



## kriktsemaj99

Closing the iris doesn't have the same effect as lowering the brightness setting. The brightness is a digital control that actually changes which video level is displayed as black (and all video levels below that will look exactly the same, i.e. black). Closing the iris makes all the levels that are visible appear darker, but won't hide any. You can try it, but with the iris closed I don't think you'll need to set the brightness any higher to just see the first bar above black.


----------



## curlyjive

Quote:

Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* 
Closing the iris doesn't have the same effect as lowering the brightness setting. The brightness is a digital control that actually changes which video level is displayed as black (and all video levels below that will look exactly the same, i.e. black). Closing the iris makes all the levels that are visible appear darker, but won't hide any. You can try it, but with the iris closed I don't think you'll need to set the brightness any higher to just see the first bar above black.
I understand that brightness is a digital control and not the same as the way an iris works. But in real practice I have tried it and with the iris closed versus opened it can mean a few clicks difference before the first bar above black is just visible. It's not a HUGE difference, but if you do it one versus the other your brightness values will vary slightly.


----------



## darkstar3

Can anyone share advanced calibration settings for the 8350.


I have 1.0 gain elunevison reference screen.


Also, please advise where the super white settings are? I saw this on a basic calibration link on this forum a while ago.


There is a slight white wash look on my PJ that i would like address.


----------



## curlyjive

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Exactly what I have been experiencing... can you please try ps3-full, pj-expanded and see what happens? Do u also need to change ps3-output to rgb instead of Y CrCb? Really appreciate! As for calibrating with iris on or off, you need to leave it OFF while calibrating.
 http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post13648788 


Check post #278 for some comparison shots of different HDMI range settings. It seems the conclusions here are what I saw myself.


For the PS3 HDMI range limited and on the projector normal. Expanded seems to wash out the image, even after re-calibrating brightness and contrast. I A/B tested a few dark scenes from Quantum of Solace and The Road and saw very similar results to what the Harry Potter scenes from this thread show. Yeah it's a different PJ, but still a similar Epson with the same settings options.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *curlyjive*
http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post13648788 


Check post #278 for some comparison shots of different HDMI range settings. It seems the conclusions here are what I saw myself.


For the PS3 HDMI range limited and on the projector normal. Expanded seems to wash out the image, even after re-calibrating brightness and contrast. I A/B tested a few dark scenes from Quantum of Solace and The Road and saw very similar results to what the Harry Potter scenes from this thread show. Yeah it's a different PJ, but still a similar Epson with the same settings options.
Yup, I had seen this post and it all makes sense. Someone said earlier that you needed to set the pj to expanded but as on that post, I got the same results. I guess we just need to set the ps3 to limited and the pj to normal and calibrate from there. This is why with the settings listed above, you cant see BTB or WTW bars, because you are outputting in video mode and not 0-254


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20401676
> 
> 
> it's not so much 3 legs vs 4 as it is max allowable weight. The Epson is not "light" nor is it heavy, but it is large enough for me to recommend NOT cheaping out on the mount. Considering how many times I've replaced my Epson so far I could not be happier that I bought a good mount. I have a Peerless PPA-S. Less then 5mins to swap PJ's and no re-aligning or leveling needed.
> 
> 
> Chief very good too.



8350 is not "light"? Well this is my other projector...
http://us.sanyo.com/Projectors-by-Ma...um/PDG-DHT100L 

I call this "heavy", and BTW it's also mounted on a Chief mount.


----------



## WereWolf84

All 8350 owners, I need some info here, can you guys share & tell me how long is the power cord of this projector?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 8350 is not "light"? Well this is my other projector...
> http://us.sanyo.com/Projectors-by-Ma...um/PDG-DHT100L
> 
> I call this "heavy", and BTW it's also mounted on a Chief mount.



...and we have CRT projectors that take 3-4 guys to move.


The point was, use a mount that is rated for the weight.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/20408131
> 
> 
> All 8350 owners, I need some info here, can you guys share & tell me how long is the power cord of this projector?



I believe it's a standard 6ft cord but the projector takes a standard detachable PC type power cord that can be used if you need a longer or shorter cord.


----------



## Pruckner

The 8350 is my first projector and I LOVE it.


One issue though...After about 100 hours, when the screen is completely black, there is one small dot/spot on the screen that that isn't black - it's red-ish.


Anyone know what that might be causing that? How can I fix? I've cleaned the projector lens and no improvement.


If I have one spot like this, is there an increased chance of more occuring?


Need to decide if I should contact Epson.


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## viper98912




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/20408131
> 
> 
> All 8350 owners, I need some info here, can you guys share & tell me how long is the power cord of this projector?



I myself needed to know this too before I bought, but couldn't find the answer. So as my public service for the day, I just measured and it's 10 ft


----------



## lespurgeon

Pruckner

You have a stuck pixel. Not likely to get more. Not 100% on the Epson policy, but most LCD makers won't replace for a single one. I have 1 stuck blue on both my 24" Dell monitor and Thinkpad.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/20410354
> 
> 
> Pruckner
> 
> You have a stuck pixel. Not likely to get more. Not 100% on the Epson policy, but most LCD makers won't replace for a single one. I have 1 stuck blue on both my 24" Dell monitor and Thinkpad.



Yep...gotta live with that.....,


If it's only noticeable with a completely Blank screen, your gonna be OK, and the likelihood of developing any more is almost nil. But you know what to look for now, and if more appear during the Warranty period, Epson will resolve the issue in your favor.


----------



## tommyv2

Epson upgraded my 6100 to an 8100 and then finally an 8350. (bad panels, high pitched noise, focus issues, etc)


My 8350 convergence is pretty good. Only off by the blue panel, one to the right. Looks flawless from a couple of feet away, never mind viewing distance. Image wise, not much of an improvement over the 6100/8100 (slightly better blacks... but it's also dimmer, too!) but if nothing else, the lens seems worse - a little more chromatic aberration (but each lens is different, so it's not model-specific, I know). Overall, very happy with it - and I'm incredibly picky.


My original warranty is up in July, so I hope it lasts!


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *helcik* 
hi all,


So far I am using out of the box settings + some minor tweaks for my taste. Would the calibration change significally the picture? What about brightness, do I understand correctly, that calibrating the PJ drops the lumens?


How do you calibrate your PJ, any specific tools, procedures?


Please, explain briefly or point me to some knowledge source.
To calibrate, use THX calibration tool available in the Star Wars or Pixar DVDs. You can use higher end ones, but for basic calibration for free, they will do fine. If you can order the blue tint THX glasses, which can help you calibrate tint and color saturation. Start with contrast setting, then move to brightness. Goal is to get it as bright as possible w/o losing the distinction amongst the eight white boxes, then seeing THX drop down shadow or seven shades of grey, but no more. Get it just dark enough to barely see the shadow and the seventh darkest shade. Instructions are included.


Then, put on glasses to get Tint/Hue right, then finally color saturation. You can calibrate sharpness next, but remember that you'll want more sharpness for Blu Ray and less for DVDs, so be prepared to reset depending on your source. Rule of thumb is keep sharpness low enough to reduce artifacts that appear like little auras around items, tiny geometric shapes that aren't in the original signal. Check around words or sharply defined items to check for this. Reduce sharpness until they disappear and diagonal lines appear straight, not like stair cases of tiny blocks.


I prefer Eco setting at night and High Speed Iris, but feel free during day to go full tilt Normal mode and Low Speed Iris, or Iris Off if the sound bugs you. Usually with any movie, the soundtrack and the dialogue drown out any noise from the iris, and I prefer the high contrast.


Finally, don't expect this to look like a high end plasma, which have the inkiest blacks. At best this compares to a real movie theater. The pq from blu ray is super sharp and color saturation and accuracy will blow most AV aficionados away. Enjoy!


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *manos777*
to calibrate, use thx calibration tool available in the star wars or pixar dvds. You can use higher end ones, but for basic calibration for free, they will do fine. If you can order the blue tint thx glasses, which can help you calibrate tint and color saturation. Start with contrast setting, then move to brightness. Goal is to get it as bright as possible w/o losing the distinction amongst the eight white boxes, then seeing thx drop down shadow or seven shades of grey, but no more. Get it just dark enough to barely see the shadow and the seventh darkest shade. Instructions are included.


Then, put on glasses to get tint/hue right, then finally color saturation. You can calibrate sharpness next, but remember that you'll want more sharpness for blu ray and less for dvds, so be prepared to reset depending on your source. Rule of thumb is keep sharpness low enough to reduce artifacts that appear like little auras around items, tiny geometric shapes that aren't in the original signal. Check around words or sharply defined items to check for this. Reduce sharpness until they disappear and diagonal lines appear straight, not like stair cases of tiny blocks.


I prefer eco setting at night and high speed iris, but feel free during day to go full tilt normal mode and low speed iris, or iris off if the sound bugs you. Usually with any movie, the soundtrack and the dialogue drown out any noise from the iris, and i prefer the high contrast.


Finally, don't expect this to look like a high end plasma, which have the inkiest blacks. At best this compares to a real movie theater. The pq from blu ray is super sharp and color saturation and accuracy will blow most av aficionados away. Enjoy!
+1


----------



## helcik

thx a lot for this info, just ordered thx glasses, now need to find the pattern, how can I find it on dvd, shall I open it on PC?


----------



## Darkhour

Has anyone noticed a degradation in sharpness? I had a Mits hc4000 (returned due to RBE, shame!) The mits was MUCH sharper. The 8350 started sharp, but seems like it's getting softer in different parts of the screen. It seems difficult to get a good sharpness adjustment. I am using vertical shift, but not to it's max, and minor horizontal shift to correct screen fill. other than that, the projector is not bad at all. I watched the social network on it last night, and blacks again look green, but I know that some film stock does that.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Darkhour* 
Has anyone noticed a degradation in sharpness? I had a Mits hc4000 (returned due to RBE, shame!) The mits was MUCH sharper. The 8350 started sharp, but seems like it's getting softer in different parts of the screen. It seems difficult to get a good sharpness adjustment. I am using vertical shift, but not to it's max, and minor horizontal shift to correct screen fill. other than that, the projector is not bad at all. I watched the social network on it last night, and blacks again look green, but I know that some film stock does that.
Nop, no degradation on my end.


----------



## tommyv2

If you're using lens shift, it might be impossible to get perfect sharpness all the way across the screen. I've verified this myself on the several Epsons I've owned. When at the center position for hor/vert lens shift, the sharpness everywhere is excellent, so try that just to verify.


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhour* /forum/post/20413276
> 
> 
> I watched the social network on it last night, and blacks again look green, but I know that some film stock does that.



The Social Network was filmed on an RED MX digital cameras, so the film stock ain't quite it


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20413350
> 
> 
> The Social Network was filmed on an RED MX digital cameras, so the film stock ain't quite it



The movie is about Facebook. Nothing about it is right.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20413272
> 
> 
> thx a lot for this info, just ordered thx glasses, now need to find the pattern, how can I find it on dvd, shall I open it on PC?



You can find the THX Optimizer on the following titles in the Special Features section:


1. Star Wars

2. Finding Nemo

3. Indiana Jones

4. Toy Story 1, 2 & 3

5. Pirates of the Caribbean


See this article for more calibration advice:
http://www.hometheater.com/advicefro...perts/407cali/


----------



## gchu69

Hi guys, I'm completely new to the forum and to projectors in general. After doing some research online, I got a 8350 and will try to set it up tonight. Any answers or suggestions would be much appreciated but here is just a little info on my tentative set up.


- 18' throw (I want to avoid a ceiling mounts and there is a ledge that the PJ can sit on that is 18' from the wall I'll be putting a screen on).


- The ledge is 8' 4" tall.


- Will mainly use the PJ for movies, PS3, and sports (lots of football).


So a couple questions:


1. What size screen should I get? White or grey?


2. Will there be a significant difference in brightness by having such a long throw?


3. Is a professional calibration necessary? Or is this something I can figure out on my own?


Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchu69* /forum/post/20413811
> 
> 
> So a couple questions:
> 
> 
> 1. What size screen should I get? White or grey?
> 
> 
> 2. Will there be a significant difference in brightness by having such a long throw?
> 
> 
> 3. Is a professional calibration necessary? Or is this something I can figure out on my own?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance guys.



1. At 18' throw, I would go for a 92" 16:9 screen but make sure you get a screen with at least a 1.3 gain.


2. Yup, at that long of a throw, you will definitely need a screen with good gain, if you want to go 100" or more.


3. Setup Cinema mode with Art's settings and go from there. I use the Spears and Munsil BD calibration disc and I can't complain.


Good luck with your build!


PS. Of course, I have to recommend Silver Fire v2, if you are willing to build a screen yourself.


----------



## cbeck23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/20399515
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the opinions guys. Keep it coming. Joeags, you are killing me. I just about had myself ready to wait till Nov. I already had Nov in my mind, but your note is swinging me back. I waited this long because I wanted to pay off some bills. Now, I can get it and I thought maybe I can wait for the new one. I would get a tablet PC as my hold-over gadget and the rest of the money I would place the rest in a Xmas club.
> 
> 
> They few people I have spoken to have not been on the angel side of shoulder....lol



Just when I am about to take the plunge, I speak to Epson and they state there will be approx four home projectors coming out this fall. The rep had no other info, but one of them is the 8350 update. 6 months seems like forever though.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curlyjive* /forum/post/20403618
> 
> http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post13648788
> 
> 
> Check post #278 for some comparison shots of different HDMI range settings. It seems the conclusions here are what I saw myself.
> 
> 
> For the PS3 HDMI range limited and on the projector normal. Expanded seems to wash out the image, even after re-calibrating brightness and contrast. I A/B tested a few dark scenes from Quantum of Solace and The Road and saw very similar results to what the Harry Potter scenes from this thread show. Yeah it's a different PJ, but still a similar Epson with the same settings options.



I agree with the observation using the Expanded HDMI setting.

It makes the blacks washed out, especially in night scenes, no matter how you adjust the brightness or contrast.

I'm using a Panasonic BD65 in a completely light controlled room.


The blacks looker more inky and colors look richer using Super White and the shadow details look fine.


----------



## Mupi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/20414519
> 
> 
> Just when I am about to take the plunge, I speak to Epson and they state there will be approx four home projectors coming out this fall. The rep had no other info, but one of them is the 8350 update. 6 months seems like forever though.



why approx four projectors? are they planning to release 31/2 or 41/2?


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20414688
> 
> 
> I agree with the observation using the Expanded HDMI setting.
> 
> It makes the blacks washed out, especially in night scenes, no matter how you adjust the brightness or contrast.
> 
> I'm using a Panasonic BD65 in a completely light controlled room.
> 
> 
> The blacks looker more inky and colors look richer using Super White and the shadow details look fine.



So you too are using the Normal HDMI range with SuperWhite ON? The other benefit I found with leaving SuperWhite on is that if you look at a daytime sky scene and look at the clouds....with super white off the detail in the bright white areas is lost....turn superwhite ON and the detail is restored.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curlyjive* /forum/post/20414904
> 
> 
> So you too are using the Normal HDMI range with SuperWhite ON? The other benefit I found with leaving SuperWhite on is that if you look at a daytime sky scene and look at the clouds....with super white off the detail in the bright white areas is lost....turn superwhite ON and the detail is restored.



If you turn on Super White, the HDMI settings are grayed out.

It's either use Super White or use HDMI Advanced settings.


----------



## gspeaks

Am writing this thread from India. My cousin had bought a new Epson 8350 for me, from the US. She's got it from Amazon and was delivered by UPS. Now the problem we are facing is how to bring to India. The package is so big that it won fit in any of the luggage she's got (the luggage dimensions are according to aviation policy). But if we unpack the box, it is fitting inside the luggage box. I want you guys to suggest me how to pack it in the luggage box safely while she travel to India. Thanks in advance.


----------



## subq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cbeck23* /forum/post/20414519
> 
> 
> Just when I am about to take the plunge, I speak to Epson and they state there will be approx four home projectors coming out this fall. The rep had no other info, but one of them is the 8350 update. 6 months seems like forever though.



you will be in a perpetual wait state if you are waiting for the "next" of anything


I just pulled the trigger on an 8350 today (should be here Wed.) and I don't have any regrets about not waiting another 6 months to see if there is an upgrade and what it will be.


...will cross that bridge when the time comes


----------



## Logan M




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gspeaks* /forum/post/20415306
> 
> 
> Am writing this thread from India. My cousin had bought a new Epson 8350 for me, from the US. She’s got it from Amazon and was delivered by UPS. Now the problem we are facing is how to bring to India. The package is so big that it won fit in any of the luggage she’s got (the luggage dimensions are according to aviation policy). But if we unpack the box, it is fitting inside the luggage box. I want you guys to suggest me how to pack it in the luggage box safely while she travel to India. Thanks in advance.



The biggest thing you will want to avoid while transporting the projector is falls, drops or hard blows to it. If she can carry on the bag with it inside you shouldn't have any issues. Just wrap the projector in bubble wrap or another well cushioned filler and make sure it doesn't get smacked around. Of course make sure you've got the lens cap on (duh). Just fyi I do not own this projector but I doubt it has extra special transportation requirements.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gspeaks* /forum/post/20415306
> 
> 
> Am writing this thread from India. My cousin had bought a new Epson 8350 for me, from the US. She's got it from Amazon and was delivered by UPS. Now the problem we are facing is how to bring to India. The package is so big that it won fit in any of the luggage she's got (the luggage dimensions are according to aviation policy). But if we unpack the box, it is fitting inside the luggage box. I want you guys to suggest me how to pack it in the luggage box safely while she travel to India. Thanks in advance.



I HIGHLY recommend getting that PJ checked for all the issues here in this thread before you go through the trouble of shipping it.


----------



## MichaelAV

Just installed a new 8350 in a friends home last night. He is working on a budget so we mounted it on the ceiling and shot it on his white wall. The picture still looks great.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you turn on Super White, the HDMI settings are grayed out.
> 
> It's either use Super White or use HDMI Advanced settings.



When you select Super White ON, the HDMI Range grays out but defaults to NORMAL. In other words, when Super White is ON, the HDMI range will automatically be set to NORMAL.


----------



## nokia445pro

hi can someone post a pic of 8350 with good convergence?


i found this pic forbad convergence http://www.djmiami.com/8350/2.jpg 


just want to see good convergence before pulling the trigger on 8350. also how common is the 8350 convergence problems


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/20416056
> 
> 
> hi can someone post a pic of 8350 with good convergence?
> 
> 
> i found this pic forbad convergence http://www.djmiami.com/8350/2.jpg
> 
> 
> just want to see good convergence before pulling the trigger on 8350. also how common is the 8350 convergence problems




Almost non-existent if one does not consider a 1-pixel off situation as a deal breaker (...or heart breaker)


I myself have found virtually no convergence issues in the 14 + 8350s I've encountered.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gspeaks* /forum/post/20415306
> 
> 
> Am writing this thread from India. My cousin had bought a new Epson 8350 for me, from the US. She’s got it from Amazon and was delivered by UPS. Now the problem we are facing is how to bring to India. The package is so big that it won fit in any of the luggage she’s got (the luggage dimensions are according to aviation policy). But if we unpack the box, it is fitting inside the luggage box. I want you guys to suggest me how to pack it in the luggage box safely while she travel to India. Thanks in advance.



Well if your determined to take it aboard a Plane in checked Luggage, the best you can do is to wrap it in several layers of Bubble Wrap...enough that it essentially fills up the available remaining space between the outside dimensions of the Pj and the inside edges of the Suitcase.


Remember to insure that piece of Luggage AND it's contents. There are Gorilla-like Luggage handlers out there waiting to bounce your Suitcase off walls and the Airport Tarmac.


Personally, I'd ship it via USPS*** Priority Mail. Declaring it at Customs at an Airport can become a pricey undertaking. Not declaring it might result in a seizure. USPS handles shipments made through Foreign Customs fairly well, and if you declare the 8350 as being a personal "used item" with a value of at least $500.00, you take a lessor hit most likely.***United States Postal Service


----------



## nokia445pro

14+ with at most 1 pixel off is no deal breaker for me. thanks!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20416110
> 
> 
> Almost non-existent if one does not consider a 1-pixel off situation as a deal breaker (...or heart breaker)
> 
> 
> I myself have found virtually no convergence issues in the 14 + 8350s I've encountered.



Add another one for me! lol *knock on wood* My pj with 177 hrs has been perfect so far.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gspeaks* /forum/post/20415306
> 
> 
> Am writing this thread from India. My cousin had bought a new Epson 8350 for me, from the US. She's got it from Amazon and was delivered by UPS. Now the problem we are facing is how to bring to India. The package is so big that it won fit in any of the luggage she's got (the luggage dimensions are according to aviation policy). But if we unpack the box, it is fitting inside the luggage box. I want you guys to suggest me how to pack it in the luggage box safely while she travel to India. Thanks in advance.



LOL When I started reading this, I was thinking to myself it was one of those Nigerian scams. HAHAHAHA


Yea buddy, I would try to package it with as much cushion (bubble wrap, towels, etc) inside a checked luggage bag and pray for the best.


----------



## BKSRU

Convergence:

The left party of my projector (1 horizontal pixel):
 

The right party of my projector (perfectly):
 

From 1 meter I do not feel a difference.


To the information. My projector is got in US and delivered to Russia through Shipito (USPS). The cargo has reached in an integrity and safety:


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20416268
> 
> 
> Convergence:
> 
> The left party of my projector (1 horizontal pixel):
> 
> 
> The right party of my projector (perfectly):
> 
> 
> From 1 meter I do not feel a difference.
> 
> 
> To the information. My projector is got in US and delivered to Russia through Shipito (USPS). The cargo has reached in an integrity and safety:



Thanks. Not very encouraging. Can the convergence be set manually?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/20416330
> 
> 
> Thanks. Not very encouraging. Can the convergence be set manually?



Seriously, what's not very encouraging about a 1 pixel convergence? If you want better convergence, then you should start considering paying a bit more if you want a LCD or consider getting a DLP projector.


----------



## BKSRU

With my knowledge of English, I think, that I only shall frighten you







.

Not so it is terrible as in a photo. And the camera gives soap a little.

Adjustment of convergence is not stipulated.

But Chromatic Aberrations on my copy strongly depend from Lens Shift.

But also my copy arranges me. But I understand, that perfectionism now in honour







. If there is an opportunity of a choice it is necessary to try to choose the best copy. There are copies with excellent convergence:
 


Here, that gives Nokia Test from my projector:


----------



## BKSRU

I shall try to explain still. Me arranges EPSON 8350. And convergence not so frightens me. Other parameters More interest. If me does not arrange EPSON 8350 I go and I buy EPSON 8700. Better EPSON can only EPSON







.


----------



## nokia445pro

Thanks BKSRU for your input. I understand what you are saying!


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20416375
> 
> 
> Seriously, what's not very encouraging about a 1 pixel convergence? If you want better convergence, then you should start considering paying a bit more if you want a LCD or consider getting a DLP projector.



thats is what i'm considering since my main use is monitor replacement. But then from 10 feet this is probably not going to be as much of an issue as convergence is a problem on a CRT monitor 2 feet away (even 1 pixel/slight misconvergence is too much at 2 feet away on CRT)


----------



## BKSRU

On a projector it looks differently than on CRT. Not so it is allocated. At me already from 1 meter, the black text looks precise. But the lattice of pixels is appreciable. But some guys very well see







.

On DLP this same looks not always better. Often chromatic Aberrations reach 1 pixel.


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20416829
> 
> 
> On a projector it looks differently than on CRT. Not so it is allocated. At me already from 1 meter, the black text looks precise. But the lattice of pixels is appreciable. But some guys very well see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On DLP this same looks not always better. Often chromatic Aberrations reach 1 pixel.



Is chromatic aberration visible from far away (3.5 metres) on DLP? Does 3LCD have chromatic aberration also?


I will work from 3.5 metres distance so mis-convergence on 3LCD should be OK.


----------



## BKSRU

Usually at LCD the optics is better. And with Chromatic Aberrations the situation is better. But it concerns a considered class of projectors. At EPSON Chromatic Aberrations are not high. I would tell perfectly.

From 3,5 meters you will not see Chromatic Aberrations and will not see bad convergence.

These things are similar and give identical effect - softness. But in itself are not visible. You will not see color contours.


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BKSRU* /forum/post/20416903
> 
> 
> Usually at LCD the optics is better. And with Chromatic Aberrations the situation is better. But it concerns a considered class of projectors. At EPSON Chromatic Aberrations are not high. I would tell perfectly.
> 
> From 3,5 meters you will not see Chromatic Aberrations and will not see bad convergence.
> 
> These things are similar and give identical effect - softness. But in itself are not visible. You will not see color contours.



Thanks!


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/20416923
> 
> 
> thanks!



Желаю вам удачной конвергенции







.

I wish you successful convergence







.


----------



## newfmp3

Sir I applaud anyone that can speak more then one language. I most certainly can not. But I think I may give you the nickname of Yoda!


I am only kidding of course.


or


Kidding I am


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20416998
> 
> 
> Sir I applaud anyone that can speak more then one language. I most certainly can not. But I think I may give you the nickname of Yoda!
> 
> 
> I am only kidding of course.
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> Kidding I am



Yes there will arrive with me force!









Kidding I am


----------



## Darkhour




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20413350
> 
> 
> The Social Network was filmed on an RED MX digital cameras, so the film stock ain't quite it



That would make sense. It could of been a style applied in post. Anyway after reading the posts on Super White and HDMI range etc. I was able to get more of a black picture out it. I also ran the THX optimizer off of the Star Wars disc and saw some gains there as well.


Oh and as far as languages, I speak two, my secondary is English, the primary is gibberish, or whatever happens on a Friday night after about 6 beers










Cheers!


----------



## cbeck23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/20414863
> 
> 
> why approx four projectors? are they planning to release 31/2 or 41/2?



He actually said 5 projectors, but 4 were in the home cinema line like the 8350. I assumed the 5th was a business projector so I just said approx 4. At this early stage, his info wasn't complete or completely set in stone.


----------



## cbeck23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *subq* /forum/post/20415328
> 
> 
> you will be in a perpetual wait state if you are waiting for the "next" of anything
> 
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on an 8350 today (should be here Wed.) and I don't have any regrets about not waiting another 6 months to see if there is an upgrade and what it will be.
> 
> 
> ...will cross that bridge when the time comes




I was supposed to get the 8350 when it came out, but a couple of bills took priority. I just got myself thinking if I waited this long, maybe I could wait it out and start with the new one while it was fresh.


I am driving my wife crazy.


----------



## flintstone

I have had my 8350 mounted and in use for a few days now, and I have found nothing that bothers me (or anyone else in the family) in any way. I have also had a few people stop over for a movie or two, and all were "very" impressed by the picture quality.


I ran the THX optimizer today and the picture looks even better (although I don't have a screen up yet).....I just wanted to test it anyway.


I mounted the projector at 15' 4"......ceiling mount, and I'm going to go with a 120" screen. (I'm glad I waited on the screen now as I was going to order 110" model with the projector).


----------



## wowyahoo

This projector is badass. you're welcome America. Get it!


----------



## queso2323

Can anyone suggest a ceiling mount for the 8350? Need about an 8" extension from the ceiling. Preferably under $100 and not hideous looking.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *queso2323* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a ceiling mount for the 8350? Need about an 8" extension from the ceiling. Preferably under $100 and not hideous looking.



Peerless ppa is what I use but it's about 12" min 17max I think. Premier mounts has a few and one that is around 8", check their site. I have an older one from them, solid mount, max ext is 13"


----------



## helcik

hey,


I ordered this for ceiling mount

link 


it has 8" extension.


and this for wall mount:

link 


still not sure where to mount as I will probably go for double PJ setup with Acer H5360BD for 3D once it is available.


----------



## stevedave1138

Hi All..

I've been lurking for 3 weeks on this thread waiting for my 8350 to arrive, replacing a very well used Powerlite 10+ (don't laugh, it was not that bad!) Needless to say I'm very impressed with the new picture, although the blacks are a little less than what I expected..but it's not calibrated yet.


My questions: the PJ was very quiet UNTIL I set up both my BR and DCT to output 1080p/i respectively..the projector then got much louder (although still pretty quiet..) Why is that? I sure liked the noise level before (I had them set for 480 before....lol)


Watched Alice In Wonderland on it last night...very cool...but it I think I would benefit from outputting at 1080p @ 24hz, as movement seems blurry-ish..but I am running component to the PJ, is this possible?


Any tips right of the bat would be great. I'm going to try calibrating with Disney WOW this weekend..


Thanks for reading, and the great forum!


----------



## tommyv2

Switching source/input or RGB/Component might be switching your color mode and your bulb mode. Check the bulb and color settings and you'll see it's changed everything.


As for movement, ensure you're using 24hz and that your 2:2 pulldown is enabled.


----------



## Manos777

On the new Blu Ray of The Incredibles you can find a new THX optimizer, with new contrast and brightness calibration tools. After using these, I confirmed that Super White is useless, unless you want to limit the range of your new Epson PJ (not recommended). Also expand your HDMI range to Expanded for the full range of tones from super bright, whiter than white to super dark, darker than black. Then, calibrate. I'm finding that post calibration, I have an amazing picture that rivals the gold standard set by plasmas. Notice I said "rivals" not "equals, as nothing equals the dark blacks of a high end plasma, but to these eyes, you would have to spend double to get close and for me, it is not worth it. Watched Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps recently and was blown away. Also, I saw Thor in the theaters recently and looked at how grey many dark areas were in dark scenes. I think the reason for this is the reflected ambient light coming from the screen itself. With this PJ, when the screen goes totally dark and you have Iris set to On, you almost get near perfect darkness. This also assumes next to zero ambient light in a tightly controlled dark room. Not a deal breaker given all the other qualities of this PJ.


----------



## Manos777

Quote:

Originally Posted by *stevedave1138* 
Hi All..

I've been lurking for 3 weeks on this thread waiting for my 8350 to arrive, replacing a very well used Powerlite 10+ (don't laugh, it was not that bad!) Needless to say I'm very impressed with the new picture, although the blacks are a little less than what I expected..but it's not calibrated yet.


My questions: the PJ was very quiet UNTIL I set up both my BR and DCT to output 1080p/i respectively..the projector then got much louder (although still pretty quiet..) Why is that? I sure liked the noise level before (I had them set for 480 before....lol)


Watched Alice In Wonderland on it last night...very cool...but it I think I would benefit from outputting at 1080p @ 24hz, as movement seems blurry-ish..but I am running component to the PJ, is this possible?


Any tips right of the bat would be great. I'm going to try calibrating with Disney WOW this weekend..


Thanks for reading, and the great forum!
I could be wrong, but is component capable of outputting 1080p?? I don't think it is. Double check by going to Signal tab and looking at what the PJ is actually receiving. I thought 1080i was the top end of the component cable spectrum. If I am right, and your eyes will thank you for it when playing Blu Ray discs, invest in an HDMI cable from Monocables.


----------



## stevedave1138

thanks for the replies.

My BDP is a Sony bdp-570, and I dont think it will let me output 1080p @24hz via component..I'll have to check that..Plus I may be wrong but I believe on the PJ the 2:2 was also greyed out? Is this all because Im not running HDMI? I may have to bite the bullet and run a 35' HDMI to it, but the room looks too good to have a visible wire running around one side of it! And renos are a few months away (okay a year!)


Not that I want to go looking for problems, but I'm very curious about my convergence...will check that tonight.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Manos777* 
On the new Blu Ray of The Incredibles you can find a new THX optimizer, with new contrast and brightness calibration tools. After using these, I confirmed that Super White is useless, unless you want to limit the range of your new Epson PJ (not recommended). Also expand your HDMI range to Expanded for the full range of tones from super bright, whiter than white to super dark, darker than black. Then, calibrate. I'm finding that post calibration, I have an amazing picture that rivals the gold standard set by plasmas. Notice I said "rivals" not "equals, as nothing equals the dark blacks of a high end plasma, but to these eyes, you would have to spend double to get close and for me, it is not worth it. Watched Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps recently and was blown away. Also, I saw Thor in the theaters recently and looked at how grey many dark areas were in dark scenes. I think the reason for this is the reflected ambient light coming from the screen itself. With this PJ, when the screen goes totally dark and you have Iris set to On, you almost get near perfect darkness. This also assumes next to zero ambient light in a tightly controlled dark room. Not a deal breaker given all the other qualities of this PJ.
If you don't mind, can you post your image settings?


I just can not get black when I use HDMI Enhanced.

You can also tell immediately when switching from Super White to HDMI Enhanced the screen gets brighter like the brightness level has been raised.

This new brightness level also can not be turned down much adjusting the Brightness or Contract settings.


This is what confuses me when people report they get better blacks using HDMI Enhanced.

Yes, the shadow detail in very dark scenes are visible but at the cost of making black a grayish color, washed out.


It would be curious to see if using your image settings yeilds better blacks using HDMI Enhanced over Super White.

Perhaps you've hit some perfect setting that needs to be shared.


----------



## ihabref

Sir ,can I use this projector outside the U.S ? would it normally work in PAL countries ? it's a lot cheaper than Europe ..


Thanks,


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20422836
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, can you post your image settings?
> 
> 
> I just can not get black when I use HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> You can also tell immediately when switching from Super White to HDMI Enhanced the screen gets brighter like the brightness level has been raised.
> 
> This new brightness level also can not be turned down much adjusting the Brightness or Contract settings.
> 
> 
> This is what confuses me when people report they get better blacks using HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> Yes, the shadow detail in very dark scenes are visible but at the cost of making black a grayish color, washed out.
> 
> 
> It would be curious to see if using your image settings yeilds better blacks using HDMI Enhanced over Super White.
> 
> Perhaps you've hit some perfect setting that needs to be shared.



To get better blacks with HDMI enhanced, you have to set your bluray player to the same setting for output. For instance, my PS3 is set to Hdmi Full. I have had great results with it as well, and I am constantly tinkering around for better settings...


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20422836
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, can you post your image settings?
> 
> 
> I just can not get black when I use HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> You can also tell immediately when switching from Super White to HDMI Enhanced the screen gets brighter like the brightness level has been raised.
> 
> This new brightness level also can not be turned down much adjusting the Brightness or Contract settings.
> 
> 
> This is what confuses me when people report they get better blacks using HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> Yes, the shadow detail in very dark scenes are visible but at the cost of making black a grayish color, washed out.
> 
> 
> It would be curious to see if using your image settings yeilds better blacks using HDMI Enhanced over Super White.
> 
> Perhaps you've hit some perfect setting that needs to be shared.




What HDMI range and SuperWhite does may vary depending on what player you are using and anything else in the HDMI chain. I can tell you that Superwhite on the projector is not useless....for my setup I calibrated using Spears and Munsil. With Superwhite on, there is no clipping. With it off, there is some clipping in the high range of white....definitely visible in things like cloud detail.


Last night, I went through EVERY combination of setting on the PS3 and projector, and here is what I found for my setup:


- On the PS3: Superwhite MUST be on or you will not pass BTB or WTW....in fact if it is off, it is almost impossible to bring the signal out of clipping and black crush.


- On the PS3 Setting the HDMI range to Full versus limited had no effect. I think in the PS3's case, it will only affect RGB output, and BD is Ycbcr. Games and the XMB are RGB and may look darker without recalibrating for RGB FULL output. You can select RGB output in the video setting of the PS3. Doing this is not a good idea.


- On the PJ super white brings the signal out of clipping. You will not see the BTB bar on test patterns because it forces the HDMI NORMAL mode.


- On the PJ, switching to the Extended HDMI mode WILL allow BTB to be passed. IN my case, I needed to knock brightness down about 9 clicks to get the brightness correct. Contrast also needs to be adjusted


I switched back and forth between two saved settings on the PJ. One with Super White on (HDMI NORMAL) and the other with HDMI Extended on. The PS3 was set to HDMI limited and superwhite ON. All other video settings were the same, except for brightness and contrast which needed to be calibrated for each mode. I found very little difference, save what I have seen before, which is that using Extended still tends to look a bit washed out during dark scenes. Even with brightness and contrast calibrated for that mode.


Note the I left the IRIS on while calibrating to prevent the loss of shadow detail that could occur if you set brightness with the IRIS off. That way, you are seeing the level of black more like it will be during a dark scene during real viewing.


I am guessing that different players may behave differently, and probably have settings of their own that are accounting for the differences people are having in what settings to use.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curlyjive* /forum/post/20423404
> 
> 
> On the PS3 Setting the HDMI range to Full versus limited had no effect.



I'm pretty sure "Limited" will compress 0-255 -> 16-235. I would have to double check though. If your TV (and the 8350 does) support full, you should set it to full.


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20423563
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure "Limited" will compress 0-255 -> 16-235. I would have to double check though. If your TV (and the 8350 does) support full, you should set it to full.



From what I understand video levels are 16-235, PC levels are 0-255. If the expansion done by the player is done incorrectly, or the player and display don't handshake properly, then it will "map" the ranges incorrectly.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20423563
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure "Limited" will compress 0-255 -> 16-235. I would have to double check though. If your TV (and the 8350 does) support full, you should set it to full.



No, curlyjive was right. On the PS3 Full vs Limited has no effect on YCbCr output (which is what you want to use for BDs). It only affects RGB output (games and the XMB menu), and you should use Limited otherwise you'll have different black levels for games and BD movies.


Selecting Full on the display end is good so that you can see BTB and WTW when calibrating (and the PS3 does output BTB and WTW from BDs in YCbCr mode with SuperWhite on).


----------



## newfmp3

Guys thanks for the ps3 info, I have a few things to try now....if I can find the time...darn job!


----------



## BKSRU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ihabref* /forum/post/20423041
> 
> 
> Sir ,can I use this projector outside the U.S ? would it normally work in PAL countries ? it's a lot cheaper than Europe ..
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Yes. This PJ will work in the Europe.

EPSON 8350 full analogue EPSON TW3600.

_You asked me?_


----------



## Patrick McGuire




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20422836
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, can you post your image settings?
> 
> 
> I just can not get black when I use HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> You can also tell immediately when switching from Super White to HDMI Enhanced the screen gets brighter like the brightness level has been raised.
> 
> This new brightness level also can not be turned down much adjusting the Brightness or Contract settings.
> 
> 
> This is what confuses me when people report they get better blacks using HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> Yes, the shadow detail in very dark scenes are visible but at the cost of making black a grayish color, washed out.
> 
> 
> It would be curious to see if using your image settings yeilds better blacks using HDMI Enhanced over Super White.
> 
> Perhaps you've hit some perfect setting that needs to be shared.



You probably have a mismatch between source and display. Source must be set to output 0-255 for enhanced to look right. If you have a calibration disk or a disk with a THX optimizer in the menu such as "The Incredibles", you can verify display of "blacker than black". Since Blu-ray content is 16-235 anyway, it should not make a discernible difference if you don't display "blacker than black".


Once you have the proper match, either 16-235 or 0-255, then try Super White and see if it looks better to you. I find it crushes blacks a bit in some scenes, but more than makes up for it with better color and an overall richer look.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/20423773
> 
> 
> No, curlyjive was right. On the PS3 Full vs Limited has no effect on YCbCr output (which is what you want to use for BDs).



I wasn't questioning that part. It was the statement that Full vs Limited has no effect in general.


----------



## LarryPiznoTn

I searched the forum not too long ago for any information regarding running your projector outdoors, to no avail. Has anyone tried the 8350 in the outdoor environment? I've been experimenting (As you can see in the attachments), & it's the greatest thing in the world! Talk about home theater! I'm just amazed at the quality the 8350 was able to display, despite projecting on my garage. Aside from the dark area above the garage (Due to the brick on the house), I am blown away by the quality nonetheless. My wife worries due to neighbors driving by & stopping when they see movies on the front of the house lol! If there's anyone who's used their pj outdoors, are there any precautions I might need to take, as far as protecting the pj from certain debris & insects running rampant? Or any suggestions on improving the quality, by any chance (My screen is mounted in the house, of course). Thanks, & I apologize for the picture quality. My iPhone 4 camera doesn't do too well at night lol.


----------



## curlyjive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20424694
> 
> 
> I wasn't questioning that part. It was the statement that Full vs Limited has no effect in general.





The only way that I meant it had no affect was in running Ycbcr in FULL out of the PS3. Running the PJ in Expanded WILL pass BTB, but I am not sure if it is expanding the signal correctly.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patrick McGuire* /forum/post/20424429
> 
> 
> You probably have a mismatch between source and display. Source must be set to output 0-255 for enhanced to look right. If you have a calibration disk or a disk with a THX optimizer in the menu such as "The Incredibles", you can verify display of "blacker than black". Since Blu-ray content is 16-235 anyway, it should not make a discernible difference if you don't display "blacker than black".
> 
> 
> Once you have the proper match, either 16-235 or 0-255, then try Super White and see if it looks better to you. I find it crushes blacks a bit in some scenes, but more than makes up for it with better color and an overall richer look.



Tried this lastnight.

Panasonic BD65 player has a setting for Normal or Enhanced HDMI output.

Anytime I switch to HDMI Enhanced on the Epson, the only thing it appears to do is increase the Brightness.

I can get the same results using HDMI Normal and Super White by increasing my Brightness to 10, which washes out the picture.

I keep my Brightness at 1 with Super White and Contrast at 0.


For my setup, Super White outputs a better Contrast Ratio, better blacks and richer color than HDMI Enhanced.


From what I can tell, HDMI Enhanced appears to be a Brightness booster for those who use their projector in the living room and want more Brightness on top of the Dynamic Mode and Super White is use for light controlled rooms to enhance the Contrast Ratio.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Tried this lastnight.
> 
> Panasonic BD65 player has a setting for Normal or Enhanced HDMI output.
> 
> Anytime I switch to HDMI Enhanced on the Epson, the only thing it appears to do is increase the Brightness.
> 
> I can get the same results using HDMI Normal and Super White by increasing my Brightness to 10, which washes out the picture.
> 
> I keep my Brightness at 1 with Super White and Contrast at 0.
> 
> 
> For my setup, Super White outputs a better Contrast Ratio, better blacks and richer color than HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> 
> From what I can tell, HDMI Enhanced appears to be a Brightness booster for those who use their projector in the living room and want more Brightness on top of the Dynamic Mode and Super White is use for light controlled rooms to enhance the Contrast Ratio.



I've also done some testing and my findings corroborate your findings. HDMI FULL is to be used for sources that output RGB-Video. You can verify what is being fed into the pj by going to settings | info.


Lets say you have the following equipment:


1. PS3

2. Xbox 360

3. Epson 8350


For the equipment listed above, this is how you need to set them up:


1. PS3


Video Output - Y CbCr (this only applies to output when watching BD/DVD)

HDMI Range - FULL (Forces the PS3 to output 0-254 when playing games or doing anything else beside watching BD/DVD, VERY IMPORTANT!)

Super White - ON



2. Xbox 360


Reference Levels - EXPANDED

Color Space - RGB

Once again, the above settings ensure you are sending a 0-254 signal which is needed for gaming and using your Xbox in general besides watching movies.



3. Epson 8350


Here is the tricky part and one where you need to use the memory function of the pj.


I have 3 modes saved for each situation.


When watching movies:


Cinema Mode

Super White - OFF

HDMI Range - Normal

Auto Iris - High Speed

Lamp - Normal (I am using SF v2 4.0, so I need the extra lumens)



When using the PS3 and Xbox 360 to play games or anything else besides watching movies:


Dynamic Mode

Super White - Off

HDMI - Expanded

Auto Iris - Off

Lamp - Normal



When watching Fios TV:


Living Room Mode

Super White - Off

HDMI Range - Limited

Auto Iris - High Speed

Lamp - Normal


Just remember, if your source outputs RGB-Video, then on your pj you must use HDMI Expanded. If it outputs component, then you must use HDMI Limited.


----------



## FUN4ME




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20425809
> 
> 
> I've also done some testing and my findings corroborate your findings. HDMI FULL is to be used for sources that output RGB-Video. You can verify what is being fed into the pj by going to settings | info.
> 
> 
> Lets say you have the following equipment:
> 
> 
> 1. PS3
> 
> 2. Xbox 360
> 
> 3. Epson 8350
> 
> 
> For the equipment listed above, this is how you need to set them up:
> 
> 
> 1. PS3
> 
> 
> Video Output - Y CbCr (this only applies to output when watching BD/DVD)
> 
> 
> HDMI Range - FULL (Forces the PS3 to output 0-254 when playing games or doing anything else beside watching BD/DVD, VERY IMPORTANT!)
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Xbox 360
> 
> 
> Reference Levels - EXPANDED
> 
> Color Space - RGB
> 
> Once again, the above settings ensure you are sending a 0-254 signal which is needed for gaming and using your Xbox in general besides watching movies.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Epson 8350
> 
> 
> Here is the tricky part and one where you need to use the memory function of the pj.
> 
> 
> I have 3 modes saved for each situation.
> 
> 
> When watching movies:
> 
> 
> Cinema Mode
> 
> Super White - OFF
> 
> HDMI Range - Normal
> 
> Auto Iris - High Speed
> 
> Lamp - Normal (I am using SF v2 4.0, so I need the extra lumens)
> 
> 
> 
> When using the PS3 and Xbox 360 to play games or anything else besides watching movies:
> 
> 
> Dynamic Mode
> 
> Super White - Off
> 
> HDMI - Expanded
> 
> Auto Iris - Off
> 
> Lamp - Normal
> 
> 
> 
> When watching Fios TV:
> 
> 
> Living Room Mode
> 
> Super White - Off
> 
> HDMI Range - Limited
> 
> Auto Iris - High Speed
> 
> Lamp - Normal
> 
> 
> Just remember, if your source outputs RGB-Video, then on your pj you must use HDMI Expanded. If it outputs component, then you must use HDMI Limited.



Thanks that will be very helpful when I set up the theater again.

It is all apart for wiring, lighting, paint, ect


----------



## stevedave1138

I got my WOW BluRay yesterday and went through the calibrations.. I am very happy with the final result, but was surprised how much I had to adjust some things like color and tint to dial it in..but I thats why we calibrate hey!


Also my overscan was set to 8% on the PJ, and I turned it to zero so the arrows points would touch the edge of the screen and the circle not clipped. Thats fine, but what does overscan do and why was it set at 8% 9I presume by default as I hadn't made any adjustments yet.) Also, i calibrated when using component, but will be adding in a 50' HDMi this weekend (fingers crossed with that length), will i need to re-calibrate? (I probably will anyways, but do I need to?)


Convergence...I see a red line above and a green below the white line...nothing on either side, nice and crisp..It seems like its 1 pixel above and below..Normal I guess? The image seems fine from 11' away....100" screen.


Thanks!


----------



## stevedave1138












Well here's a pic I took showing my convergence..Any thoughts?


I took this BEFORE i did any calibrations (i know that shouldn't matter..) Also BEFORE I changed overscan to zero (same deal?)


Not looking for problems, just info..Thanks all!


----------



## s0ad

I think something is wrong with my projector :/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/img0101bf.jpg/ 

http://img263.imageshack.us/g/img0059nn.jpg/ 


Is this normal? When I walk up close, I can sense some vertical lines and somekind of artifacts in the image. I tried 2 different HDMI cables with same result. It happens both on my Boxee Box and Ps3 which are directly connected to the projector.


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s0ad* /forum/post/20426186
> 
> 
> I think something is wrong with my projector :/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/img0101bf.jpg/
> 
> http://img263.imageshack.us/g/img0059nn.jpg/
> 
> 
> Is this normal? When I walk up close, I can sense some vertical lines and somekind of artifacts in the image. I tried 2 different HDMI cables with same result. It happens both on my Boxee Box and Ps3 which are directly connected to the projector.



where? i couldnt spot anything


----------



## stevedave1138

Oh, and what HDMI should I get from Monoprice..50' 22 AWG or 24 AWG?


----------



## s0ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/20426215
> 
> 
> where? i couldnt spot anything



Maybe it has to look like that.. try zooming in on the last 2 pictures, u can see the vertical lines then. A few who bother to take a close-up picture from their ps3 menu and possibly Boxee box menu?


----------



## ERuiz

Speaking of menus, does the Epson 8350 have a service menu? If so, how does one access it?


----------



## nokia445pro

where can i get a remote control for epson 8350? from epson directly or ebay?


also is this lamp genuine? http://cgi.ebay.com/EH-TW3500-EH-TW3...item35b163e573 


what is the difference compared to this lamp? http://cgi.ebay.com/Epson-Lamp-Bulb-...item53e72d6ae9


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevedave1138* /forum/post/20426143
> 
> 
> Well here's a pic I took showing my convergence..Any thoughts?



It doesn't look that far off, but it's almost impossible to tell from screenshots because of the blooming effect of the colors around the edges from cameras.

Guessing 1.5 to 2 pixels off.


Some of this can also be chromatic abberation or distortion from using lens shift or placing the projector farther back. Almost every projector has a sweet spot for sharpness and CA, usually closer is better for the lens, and farther back gives more contrast. Make sure the PJ is PERFECTLY aligned to the wall. I would project at closest throw on a regular white wall as a test and see how much it is off at closest throw at a different mounting angle.


----------



## stevedave1138

Great, thanks for having a look. My PJ is shelf mounted, where my old Home 10 was. The only difference is the Home 10 was upside down, and the screen and PJ were centered with the lens on the LEFT, but now my lens is on the right..Difference of maybe 6 inches...I used lens shift for both directions, but not sure what %. When I repaint the room, I'll adjust the shelf a bit to decrease the amount of lens shift i guess. Anyways, the picture looks nice and sharp, no complaints there! I'm not about about to try and return it just to get one the same, or worse!


Cheers.


----------



## BKSRU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Speaking of menus, does the Epson 8350 have a service menu? If so, how does one access it?
Sequence of pressing:

MENU - keep more than 5 seconds

ESC

ESC

Right

Left


Some attempts. And all will turn out.

I needed 5 attempts.


----------



## Kilgore

Quote:

Originally Posted by *BKSRU* 
Sequence of pressing:

MENU - keep more than 5 seconds

ESC

ESC

Right

Left


Some attempts. And all will turn out.

I needed 5 attempts.
That is not a service menu. You can't adjust anything in there.


----------



## BKSRU

Other variants are not present. To change detailed adjustments not probably.

Anyway I did not meet the description.

Only change of an Firmware at EPSON 6500.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curlyjive* /forum/post/20425313
> 
> 
> The only way that I meant it had no affect was in running Ycbcr in FULL out of the PS3.



Ah, sorry. I misread your post.


----------



## dgehred

After some delay, here are a few shots of my green line / convergence issues on my new 8350.


To recap:

On the left I notice a slight green shift at the edge of the image. If I look at the calibration image built into the Epson, the white lines at the edge on the right and bottom look fine, but the left side and some of the top line have color shifting going on giving them green/red glow. I'll try to take a snapshot of it.


Here they are! You can see it in the test pattern pretty clearly, and in the closeups. It's noticeable all the time, though it does not show up well in the pics here when I show the whole screen.


So... should I live with it?


LOTR:
 


Left side detail:
 


NBC show - Right:
 


NBC show - Left:
 


Test pattern Left:
 


Test pattern Right:


----------



## BKSRU

*dgehred*

Similar situation at me.


----------



## subq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgehred* /forum/post/20429990
> 
> 
> After some delay, here are a few shots of my green line / convergence issues on my new 8350.
> 
> 
> 
> So... should I live with it?



I haven't tested my brand new 8350 yet but if mine has an issue on the far left edge like that there is no way I would send it back. In my experience sending things back is like roulette, you never know what you are going to get in return and it is very difficult to get something that is completely perfect. I outline screens with black material and have my picture bleed over a hair anyway.


----------



## n1kki6

I have to agree with the poster a few pages earlier. I don't see a huge convergence issue with most of these pictures. Although it can effect picture quality somewhat, I'm not watching my PJ from 4 inches away. It's a $1200 dollar 1080p projector and a teriffic value at that price. If convergence is a main concer then this projector does not look to be a good choice for alot of people in this thread.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *n1kki6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to agree with the poster a few pages earlier. I don't see a huge convergence issue with most of these pictures. Although it can effect picture quality somewhat, I'm not watching my PJ from 4 inches away. It's a $1200 dollar 1080p projector and a teriffic value at that price. If convergence is a main concer then this projector does not look to be a good choice for alot of people in this thread.



Ditto, and even though at it's price this pj is an excellent value, it could still be considered an entry level 1080p pj. If you want top notch convergence, then you need to cough up some more money and get a higher end model.


----------



## newfmp3












You see that picture? Note the 3 lines green, blue, red that extend the entire image and form a kind of grid. Ignore the squares.


My convergence on my 3 8350's was bad enough that those 3 individual lines were practically one blurry mess. Both the vertical and horizontal depending on what replacement 8350 I was on at the time. The squares was another story all together. Matter of fact had I not already seen the image on another display prior to this, I would have never of known that there were actually 3 individual colors there at all.


NOT good enough on ANY display device imho for any price.


when using a PC. My black text was green on one PJ. On another my black Text was BLUE and another it was a mix of blue/green mess.


We consumers are the one that determine what is "acceptable" or not. We vote with our money. We buy crap, they'll just keep making it that way. Don't buy it, they improve it until it sells. Not rocket Science.


NOTE: That is NOT a picture of a 8350 above.


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20431433
> 
> 
> Ditto, and even though at it's price this pj is an excellent value, it could still be considered an entry level 1080p pj. If you want top notch convergence, then you need to cough up some more money and get a higher end model.



no way insane thinking. why take manufacturers fault on yourself. its not like you need better components, all it requires is slightly more care and precision in placement during assembly.


what bs to ask for more dollars. sorry kiss my a**.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/20432291
> 
> 
> no way insane thinking. why take manufacturers fault on yourself. its not like you need better components, all it requires is slightly more care and precision in placement during assembly.
> 
> 
> what bs to ask for more dollars. sorry kiss my a**.



BINGO!


Sloppy manufacturing, no quality testing....drunk technicians, who knows but some of the things I've seen should have never left the assembly line. Do they even turn them on before boxing them? or maybe it's a shipping thing and they just can't take being jolted around and go all out of line or something..I have no idea. But the components are there, the specs are there, care just needs to be taken. People need to take pride in their work. I could never let these things go myself. Thankfully their tech support is a little more understanding.


----------



## mutheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20421245
> 
> 
> hey,
> 
> 
> I ordered this for ceiling mount
> 
> link
> 
> 
> it has 8" extension.



I have the mount (with 8" extension) referenced in the link above and DON'T like it....why? Simply removing (carefully I might add) the lens cap from the projector will cause a slight shift in the alignment of the mount. Very frustrating.


I'm in the market for a new mount.


----------



## coderguy

On the pics posted above, towards the bottom of the set, the right side only appears to be OFF slightly above 1 pixel, maybe 1.5?


Looks more than acceptable to me, pretty good really. I don't think I'd be exchanging a unit with convergence that good.


The left side looks worse, so I would double check if the PJ is aligned perfectly, it's a real PAIN to get a PJ perfectly aligned sometimes, people assume its aligned when it's not. A variation in CA or convergence across screen uniformity is a usual sign (not always a given) that the PJ is not perfectly aligned to the wall.


There are other alternatives to the Epson 8350 with better convergence near the same price for picky folk, even in the LCD realm.

That said, I won't mention it because someone will flame me










If you don't see it in movies, don't worry about it. I wrote up a long comparison about convergence in a a post yesterday from all the different PJ's I owned.

Keep in mind that 2.25 pixels off on 1080p is about the equivalent of 1 pixel off on a 720p.


If you can't see the actual outlining from more than 8' back, I wouldn't worry too much. If you just absolutely need CLEARER HTPC text, then it's your right to return or exchange the projector until you get one that is acceptable. Totally based on your usage.


For movies, it has to be OFF quite a bit to notice, what NEWFMP3 was describing sounds like his was off a good 3+ pixels, that is a bit problematic.


----------



## russhater

All you guys and your talk about convergence...maybe I don't want to know, but I have looked and haven't noticed anything on mine, although I am not sure if I am using the right convergence error hunting technique. What is the process to discover a convergnece error? Put up some text on the projector and look for a color shadow on the letters? Or maybe I should just not even look for it, because ignorance is bliss, right?


----------



## nokia445pro

@russhater lol yeah if you think like that then sure. you have 1918+ pixels in line out of 1920 that is far more than glass half full


----------



## spurlockster

8350 owner for 460 hrs on the meter. No convergence, dust blob or any other problems to report. I'm coming from a DreamVision DLP and am completely blown away by this projector.

One happy owner.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russhater* /forum/post/20432965
> 
> 
> Or maybe I should just not even look for it, because ignorance is bliss, right?



Yah, ignorance is better, trust me on that one.

My eyes are now trained to spot flaws too well, a bad side effect is, at least right now I find it very hard to just watch the movie and not notice flaws.

I'll spot 3 pixels off at the edge of someone's nose and cringe in a closeup and think, wow what caused that, was it the signal, was it the color table / calibration, gamma curve maybe, overall projector weakness on skin tones, or was it just bad lighting by the camera man (or maybe his camera wasn't setup right).


By the time I finished the thought process of analyzing the picture, the movie just ended, and now I have no freaking idea what the movie was even about it in the first place.


Again, ignorance is definitely bliss.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20422836
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, can you post your image settings?
> 
> 
> I just can not get black when I use HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> You can also tell immediately when switching from Super White to HDMI Enhanced the screen gets brighter like the brightness level has been raised.
> 
> This new brightness level also can not be turned down much adjusting the Brightness or Contract settings.
> 
> 
> This is what confuses me when people report they get better blacks using HDMI Enhanced.
> 
> Yes, the shadow detail in very dark scenes are visible but at the cost of making black a grayish color, washed out.
> 
> 
> It would be curious to see if using your image settings yeilds better blacks using HDMI Enhanced over Super White.
> 
> Perhaps you've hit some perfect setting that needs to be shared.



I doubt my settings are perfect, but they work for me. I am more than willing to share:


Brightness: -11

Contrast: +11

Color Sat: 0

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 0


Epson Super White: Off

HDMI Range: Expanded

Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)

ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)

Auto Iris: High Speed


I'm using LG BD570 Blu Ray Player on 1080p. It has no choices for HDMI range output that I am aware of, so default.


I calibrated using The Incredibles on Blu Ray using their calibration test patterns. Good luck and happy viewing.


----------



## WereWolf84

A new & happy 8350 owner join in this thread, just got my 8350 yesterday, so far I have been using it for 2 hours, still finding the best placement location for a 119" high contrast grey screen, I have to agree with most users, out-of-box picture quality is amazing & stunning


----------



## helcik

I got Arts settings from projectorreview and then executed THX optimizer pattern. Ended up with these settings:


Image

color: cinema

brightness: -10

contrast: 11

Color sat: -7

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 3

Color Temp: 6500

Skin Tone 3

Power Consumption: ECO

Auto Iris: Normal



Advanced:

Gamma: 2.4


Offset R: -5

Offset G: 0

Offset B: -7

Gain R: -1

Gain G: -1

Gain B: 0


Signal

Epson Super White: Off

Overscan: Off

HDMI Video Range: Expanded


I am not sure about brightness if its not too low, the shadow details are very week, but seems similar to Manos777 settings. Are there any better pattern samples than THX?


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *helcik*
I got Arts settings from projectorreview and then executed THX optimizer pattern. Ended up with these settings:


Image

color: cinema

brightness: -10

contrast: 11

Color sat: -7

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 3

Color Temp: 6500

Skin Tone 3

Power Consumption: ECO

Auto Iris: Normal


Advanced:

Gamma: 2.4


Offset R: -5

Offset G: 0

Offset B: -7

Gain R: -1

Gain G: -1

Gain B: 0


Signal

Epson Super White: Off

Overscan: Off

HDMI Video Range: Expanded


I am not sure about brightness if its not too low, the shadow details are very week, but seems similar to Manos777 settings. Are there any better pattern samples than THX?
Shadow details are suffering due to HDMI Range being set to EXPANDED. Set it to NORMAL and make sure your source is set to Y CbCr or LIMITED. This is also why you ended up with a -10 for brightness. Set it up as above then re-calibrate.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I posted this as a stand-alone, but thought adding it the the 8350-specific thread was appropriate.


I've been working with my 8350 and have been a bit frustrated trying to dial in primaries/secondaries, gamma and such.


Especially with the blue primary, I seem to hit a brick wall a few points from the xy spec. Further, even with a gamma of 2.4 selected, evaluation with various patterns indicated it was only 1.5. The image was OK but as others have observed it seemed washed out and undersaturated.


Overall setup vas done with the AVSHD disc (Thank you for creating such a useful resource!), as well as the Disney WOW disc, Spears/Munsil and DVE Basics.


What follows is just a heads-up to establish if this is a valid hit or something already addressed that I missed. I haven't run a complete recal yet, so I might be back to post a never mind.


I had read in an online resource for setting up Epsons that when setting custom gamma to leave the highest and lowest slider untouched as they are essentially preset by black level (brightness) and white level (contrast.)


As I looked at the gamma-adjust graph it occured to me that all factory presets have the lowest and highest adjust points well-removed from min/max settings. If I was looking at an audio response, I would call it compressed. Peaks and highs constrained, dynamic range reduced. So the lightbulb (LED, whatever!) lit.


As an experiment, I moved the high and low points to their limits and filled-in a rough-guess curve. All previous RGBYCM/RGB adjustments were now way off, so I just set everything back to default under Cinema mode and used AVSHD to reset black and white levels. My opinion on the subject changes more often than the tide, but set up with Super white off and HDMI range to expanded.


Sure looks like more punch and more consistant saturation for low to high IRE. I'm returning to complete a cal run with the new baselines and see what happens!


Sharpness. It matters when using the WOW disk, which utilizes a black and white checkerboard as the background reference for gamma. Under advanced sharpness, I zeroed thick/thin. Just changing horizontal and/or vertical enhancement from 0 to -1 causes a large shift in the apparent grey value background reference. This can be problematic, as it would require proper setting before gamma eval.


----------



## viper98912

I can easily tell the people who've never worked in manufacturing before. Extra testing, higher precision more expensive equipment, higher labor costs and time, ALL CONTRIBUTE TO A MORE EXPENSIVE PRODUCT. You guys complain that more should've been done, bla bla bla etc etc etc, well, you're not going to achieve that in a $1200 projector from this company, they'd crumble. Live with it or buy different technology or a higher end model or a different brand that has a different style of issues.


As for how to check for convergence, basically the easiest way is to put up some black and white text on your screen, stand up and put your nose to your screen, and see if you can see the different colors not lined up. Yup, your convergence is off @ 1 inch from your eyes. Come on guys.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can easily tell the people who've never worked in manufacturing before. Extra testing, higher precision more expensive equipment, higher labor costs and time, ALL CONTRIBUTE TO A MORE EXPENSIVE PRODUCT. You guys complain that more should've been done, bla bla bla etc etc etc, well, you're not going to achieve that in a $1200 projector from this company, they'd crumble. Live with it or buy different technology or a higher end model or a different brand that has a different style of issues.
> 
> 
> As for how to check for convergence, basically the easiest way is to put up some black and white text on your screen, stand up and put your nose to your screen, and see if you can see the different colors not lined up. Yup, your convergence is off @ 1 inch from your eyes. Come on guys.



+1 well said...


----------



## dknebes

Here is my question, 8350 pj can go 120 dia or 133 dia fixed screen probably draper Onyx gray or white? Vel-Tex not sure what that option is and should I get it? with calculation at 133 dia net 1.2 gain on screen what does this do to the pict quality? This is in a new construction room so ceiling black front wall black side windows black curtains other side wall probably white, ceiling mount projector can do any throw distance looks like 16' for 120 dia and 133 dia 17'9" so what would everyone go with? would the picture be noticeably better with the 120" dia? Recommendations? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Quick Hands




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20438818
> 
> 
> i can easily tell the people who've never worked in manufacturing before. Extra testing, higher precision more expensive equipment, higher labor costs and time, all contribute to a more expensive product. You guys complain that more should've been done, bla bla bla etc etc etc, well, you're not going to achieve that in a $1200 projector from this company, they'd crumble. Live with it or buy different technology or a higher end model or a different brand that has a different style of issues.
> 
> 
> As for how to check for convergence, basically the easiest way is to put up some black and white text on your screen, stand up and put your nose to your screen, and see if you can see the different colors not lined up. Yup, your convergence is off @ 1 inch from your eyes. Come on guys.



+2


----------



## nokia445pro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quick Hands* /forum/post/20439489
> 
> 
> +2



-1


its not like you have to set it for each and every projector. its robotic and can be done by setting proper parameters prior to running the assembly line.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20434074
> 
> 
> I doubt my settings are perfect, but they work for me. I am more than willing to share:
> 
> 
> Brightness: -11
> 
> Contrast: +11
> 
> Color Sat: 0
> 
> Tint: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 0
> 
> 
> Epson Super White: Off
> 
> HDMI Range: Expanded
> 
> Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)
> 
> ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)
> 
> Auto Iris: High Speed
> 
> 
> I'm using LG BD570 Blu Ray Player on 1080p. It has no choices for HDMI range output that I am aware of, so default.
> 
> 
> I calibrated using The Incredibles on Blu Ray using their calibration test patterns. Good luck and happy viewing.



Thanks for sharing your settings.

Unfortunately, with my Panasonic BD65, those settings produced crushed blacks and lacked detail in dark scenes. Since you didn't mention the mode, I only used Cinema.


*Setting the player HDMI to Standard or Enhanced made no difference.


These are the settings I use that produce a great picture with my player.


Mode: Cinema

Brightness: 1

Contrast: 0

Color Sat: 1

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 0 (Standard)


Epson Super White: On

HDMI Range: Normal (grayed out but assume it defaults to Normal)

Power Consumption: ECO (I have a light controlled room)

Auto Iris: Off


*I only watch blu-ray material and only use HDMI 1 on the projector.

117" white screen with about a 1.2 gain.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nokia445pro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> -1
> 
> 
> its not like you have to set it for each and every projector. its robotic and can be done by setting proper parameters prior to running the assembly line.



-1 even with robotics, there is something called tolerance. Just like computer processors that do not meet set standards and tolerances, are set to lower speeds and sold as slower, cheaper models. For all we know, Epson might take those pjs that come out of the assembly line with perfect convergence and turn them into 8700UBs while those that aren't too perfect are made into 8350s. That's obviously hypothetical but just trying to get a point across about how the world of electronics manufacturing works in many cases.


It's simple, you want better quality, pay more. That's like complaining that your Toyota Corolla doesn't ride as smooth as the Toyota Camry and going to the dealership to ***** about it.


----------



## Santi8

I wish my $1200 projector performed like a $2500 projector. But I don't want to pay more than $1200!!


All this +- s*it! You guys are a trip, and thanks for destroying this thread!


----------



## tommyv2

Bad convergence is the result of manufacturing tolerances. I personally despise it, and send back unit after unit until I get a good one.


Putting in a software utility to change the raster alignment is a 100% effective, 99% free solution that would solve this once and for all. There have been projectors that have that feature, and it should be standard. There's no reason *not* to have it.


Side note: Many of you hook up your PJ to your computer. There are alignment programs (or used to be?) that change the raster settings of your video card to offset any panel alignment issues.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20440178
> 
> 
> -1 even with robotics, there is something called tolerance. Just like computer processors that do not meet set standards and tolerances, are set to lower speeds and sold as slower, cheaper models. For all we know, Epson might take those pjs that come out of the assembly line with perfect convergence and turn them into 8700UBs while those that aren't too perfect are made into 8350s. That's obviously hypothetical but just trying to get a point across about how the world of electronics manufacturing works in many cases.
> 
> 
> It's simple, you want better quality, pay more. That's like complaining that your Toyota Corolla doesn't ride as smooth as the Toyota Camry and going to the dealership to ***** about it.



I guess $1200 is a drop in the bucket for you but for some of us, it's a decent amount of our budget.


Anyway, my 3 yr old Sanyo Z2000 (Paid $1499 new) had better convergence than the 8350. The only reason I upgraded was the Sanyo light output was low and crush blacks at times. I was hoping for an upgrade but basically got a better light canon with slight convergence.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20443671
> 
> 
> Bad convergence is the result of manufacturing tolerances. I personally despise it, and send back unit after unit until I get a good one.
> 
> 
> Putting in a software utility to change the raster alignment is a 100% effective, 99% free solution that would solve this once and for all. There have been projectors that have that feature, and it should be standard. There's no reason *not* to have it.
> 
> 
> Side note: Many of you hook up your PJ to your computer. There are alignment programs (or used to be?) that change the raster settings of your video card to offset any panel alignment issues.



I do not understand why this isn't done on the Epsons. I mean it's a no brainer. Allow a service menu to move the panel 1 pixel one way or the other. I can't imagine how much money they lose over convergence issues.


As for the PC software, I'd like to check into that. While my existing 8700 has perfect convergence, that too has to go back due to a blue haze on the the entire left side of the screen....so I ain't done with replacements just yet.


I tell you what though, seeing a unit with spot on convergence, the sharpness difference is pretty dramatic for someone like myself using a PC as a HTPC.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20444204
> 
> 
> I do not understand why this isn't done on the Epsons. I mean it's a no brainer. Allow a service menu to move the panel 1 pixel one way or the other. I tell you what though, seeing a unit with spot on convergence, the sharpness difference is pretty dramatic for someone like myself using a PC as a HTPC.



You may be right, it might be a huge oversight, but my feeling is there is likely a reason that none of us our akin to knowing.


It's most likely a difficult or expensive feature to implement properly for LCD on a 1080p, otherwise it's just overlooked. Sure these LCOS projectors have it, but they are based on a more expensive line of technology.


Keep in mind that on the older 720P projectors, like the Sanyo Z5, you could shift pixels, but only 2 pixels at a time. So there was obviously some engineering difficulties involved, or they would have allowed you to do it in 1-pixel shifts or smaller. Obviously the 2 pixel shift feature was purely for their own internal use in case the machine just totally screwed up.


Now keep in mind, 2 pixels off on 720p is like being off by 4.5 pixels on a 1080p, so that was a pretty useless feature even back then, because none of the projectors that I saw ever left the factory with more than 2 pixels off for a 720p projector. Really few were off more than 1 pixel, so even shifting 2 pixels would generally net you the same result.


I also remember going into my Z5's service menu just to see what effect it had, I remember some limitations for it even beyond the 2 pixel shift, just don't recall at the moment.


----------



## fitbrit

2 px on 720p is equivalent to 5 px on 1080p, but your point is well taken.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/20444236
> 
> 
> 2 px on 720p is equivalent to 5 px on 1080p, but your point is well taken.



How does that math come out?


Here is my math:


2073600 (1920x1080)

921600 (1280x720)


2,073,600 / 921,600

= 2.25 pixels difference

* 2 Pixels off

-------------


4.5


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *coderguy* 
How does that math come out?


Here is my math:


2073600 (1920x1080)

921600 (1280x720)


2,073,600 / 921,600

= 2.25 pixels difference

* 2 Pixels off

-------------


4.5


I was just being sleepy. I'd say it's 3 at 1080p for 2 at 720p. We're looking at a linear relationship in each dimension, no? In any case, ignore my post before yours!


----------



## coderguy

We're talking equivalence in the sense of perceivable effects and visibility to sharpness, based on overall convergence.

Convergence can be off in terms of partial pixels, even though a display cannot show a partial pixel in itself from a video source.


So you are thinking in terms of scaling translations, in that sense it has to be translated to fit into a whole number to do any scaling algorithm, because a display cannot show a partial pixel.


----------



## Manos777




42Plasmaman said:


> Thanks for sharing your settings.
> 
> Unfortunately, with my Panasonic BD65, those settings produced crushed blacks and lacked detail in dark scenes. Since you didn't mention the mode, I only used Cinema.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I started with Cinema mode.
> 
> 
> My Blu Ray player is set to YCbCr, as opposed to RGB output. It does not have an option for limited or expanded HDMI range. It is an LG BD570.
> 
> 
> Good luck.


----------



## stevedave1138

Put almost 10 hours on the PJ this weekend...Tron, Star trek, Green Hornet , Golf...WOW WOW WOW and WOW!


So thrilled with the picture I can't believe it. I have total light control in my HT, and even in mid afternoon you can't see your hand in front of your face...Spectacular picture. Watched golf with lights on, no problem in living room mode (calibrated)...adjust projector and convergence is excellent..very sharp picture..


Happy as a clam.....


----------



## CTShooter

I searched this forum and there were so many threads that containted 'Dust Blob' that I thought it might be easier to just ask the question.


I just started to notice 2 green 'dust blobs' when using my projector. I have an 8350 after Epson replaced many 8100 (they finally ran out and gave me a new 8350 instead). I have had this projector going for about 7-8 months.


My question is for those that have had this problem - how did you handle it? Is this something that I can do to fix it or is this something that Epson will need to do to fix it?


----------



## dgehred

For me, the convergence was just a bit over the unacceptable line - the green/red shifting on the left 1/3 of the picture was too visible at times, especially along the edge, and it is exactly the same after 40+ hours. So I just called Epson tech support, and I have to say, they are super helpful and friendly. I got through in just a couple of minutes.


The guy said that convergence unfortunately can't be tweaked in the menus (as we have known), it is physical work that has to be done to re-align the LCD panels.


I have had the new 8350 less than 30 days, so they can overnight a brand new one to me, and I just ship the old one back (they have a credit card hold in case you don't send the old one back). I guess if it's over 30 days from date of purchase, but still under warranty, you get a refurb unit?


Anyway, I'll check the new one side by side and see how it compares.


----------



## viper98912

I thought you never got a new one on a warranty claim, you get a refurb.


----------



## motorcitymancave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20443671
> 
> 
> Bad convergence is the result of manufacturing tolerances. I personally despise it, and send back unit after unit until I get a good one.
> 
> 
> Putting in a software utility to change the raster alignment is a 100% effective, 99% free solution that would solve this once and for all. There have been projectors that have that feature, and it should be standard. There's no reason *not* to have it.
> 
> 
> Side note: Many of you hook up your PJ to your computer. There are alignment programs (or used to be?) that change the raster settings of your video card to offset any panel alignment issues.



Well there are alot of us with HTPC's that would love to try "raster" settings for alignment issues...can anyone at all expand on this in detail??


You would make alot of people happy if this is something that would work...


----------



## coderguy

They can't fix panel alignment issues with pure software, the hardware also has to be designed to work with the software. If it were a 99% free solution, every projector would have done it.


JVC's have more pixels than 1920x1080 (oversized panels) so that you don't lose resolution in full pixel adjustments. Sony notes that if you shift pixels in less than full increments, it affects the native resolution with a scaler algorithm. The Sony solution, although it works, is not 100% effective, more like 50% effective. The JVC solution, I'm not completely sure about, but I think it only lets you shift pixels in 1/2 increments on the newer models, or 1 full on the older.


Neither JVC or Sony's solution is 100% truely effective to correct really bad convergence, it's just meant to help tighten it up a bit. There is no easy solution for the manufacturers to fix convergence, considering you have $8000 JVC projectors which often have imperfect convergence, it's obvious that it's not a simple fix.


You can't fix convergence with an HTPC, the best thing you could do is change FONT sizes and/or use sharpness like filters to adjust text appearance even more.


----------



## ERuiz

Just to make sure... If the PJ's info says the source being fed into it is RGB-Video, that means it's a 0-254 and as such, I should set the PJ's HDMI range to expanded, correct? Even if this RGB-Video feed is a movie which one would assume has been encoded in 16-235 range? Movie is a Matroska file being watched via a PS3.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20447819
> 
> 
> ...You can't fix convergence with an HTPC, the best thing you could do is change FONT sizes and/or use sharpness like filters to adjust text appearance even more.



I don't see why a custom filter on an HTPC couldn't be created to shift individual colour components and compensate for the shift that will subsequently happen in the display due to poor convergence. But a simple shift isn't enough to solve all cases. I've seen sample images posted here that seem to show panels tilted out of the image plane, which slightly shrinks one colour component relative to the others so that the amount of misconvergence varies from one side of the screen to the other.


Once you have to make sub-pixel adjustments, image quality will start to suffer due to the resampling. But that could be a good use of higher resolution panels. With a 3840x2160 panel, you can do half pixel shifts of 1080p material with no resampling.


----------



## WereWolf84

This thread needs some screenshots! screenshots are more convincing


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/20448688
> 
> 
> This thread needs some screenshots! screenshots are more convincing



always a good idea!


That being said, I was trying last night to take a picture of my convergence on my latest PJ. I gotta give props to the guys that can take a picture perfectly. I just can't do it without the picture coming out looking like my converg is actually off when it isn't. You need a tall tripod, and a camera with manual focus and ideally a remote or a timer so you don't shake it when you take the picture. I go to take a picture and all of a sudden it's like I Parkinsons disease.


----------



## pacemaker

i just noticed a tiny red spot which is visable on dark backrounds. On light ones it not noticable as it white.


i thought it was a ded pixel but that wouldnt change colour. It also seems to be bigger than one pixel and looks round not square


could it be dust?


cheers


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker* /forum/post/20451119
> 
> 
> i just noticed a tiny red spot which is visable on dark backrounds. On light ones it not noticable as it white.
> 
> 
> i thought it was a ded pixel but that wouldnt change colour. It also seems to be bigger than one pixel and looks round not square
> 
> 
> could it be dust?
> 
> 
> cheers



Ok, this is weird!

just fired her back up to do the 'focus' test to see if the spot disapered and... its gone!


could it have been a stuck pixel that fixed itself?

will it come back?



ps, havnt stared to close at the screen for awhile and this experiance just served to remind me of my convergance issue. pity as i had forgotten about it and put it down to a necessary evil of owning a cheap 3 chip pj (then again i have seen some costing twice as much with worse convergance)

its been discussed a lot recently and my advice is ( unless its really bad) live with it as there really isnt any alternative at this price point without considering a noisy single chip DLP.


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20449620
> 
> 
> always a good idea!
> 
> 
> That being said, I was trying last night to take a picture of my convergence on my latest PJ. I gotta give props to the guys that can take a picture perfectly. I just can't do it without the picture coming out looking like my converg is actually off when it isn't. You need a tall tripod, and a camera with manual focus and ideally a remote or a timer so you don't shake it when you take the picture. I go to take a picture and all of a sudden it's like I Parkinsons disease.



Yeah, same here! Every time I attempt to take a decent screenshot, it ends up looking like butt. I have kinda given up on it actually! lol


----------



## whynotsingsongda

would black out cloth be ok to use i cant spend alot on a screen right now i cant spend more than 100 on a screen right now


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whynotsingsongda* /forum/post/20465952
> 
> 
> would black out cloth be ok to use i cant spend alot on a screen right now i cant spend more than 100 on a screen right now



Been using it as my 96in screen for a few yrs now looks fine to Me !


----------



## mech27

What is black out cloth?


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mech27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is black out cloth?



It's exactly what it sounds like. I cloth to block light. It isn't black though. It's actually white.


----------



## cheesetogo

Can anyone tell me if the 8350 will do 1:1 pixel mapping at 1920x1080 over HDMI?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cheesetogo* /forum/post/20467266
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the 8350 will do 1:1 pixel mapping at 1920x1080 over HDMI?



I would say so.


----------



## itsZACyo

What's up AVS helpers,

First time poster, PJ owner...first time everything here. I have spent about the last 4 weeks reading all that I can about setting up my home theater and I think this forum has some much information I'm confusing myself. I found some helpful information, but I thought I'd try to post my specific situation below for some custom help. I know I'm probably repeating a previous question, but this thread has over 150 pages. Anyways here is what I have so far, any help/suggestions would be great:


Epson 8350


Will be ceiling mounted 17+ ft away from wall (screen) with a Monoprice mount. " http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=5466&seq=1&format=2 "


(Sorry I'm so new I cant post links







)



Will 17' be enough to achieve a good 120" viewing area? My wall is 7'10" x 14'9"


How far from the ceiling should the projector be mounted? I have a ceiling fan that hangs 16" right in the middle of the room, and it needs to stay there as I'm in Las Vegas and it gets hot here!! The mount has an adjustable height of 4.7"-25.6" but like I said I have 17+ feet to work with.


Screen Help:

I have been looking into SilverFire V2 but I am so confused as to what version (scale) of grey I should use. Here is my room setup attached. The first picture is close to how far the PJ will be mounted from the screen. The 2nd picture is at the front near the screening wall. As you can see i have a TON of ambient lighting from 3 58x39" windows, a sliding glass door, and another 39x58" window in the kitchen. it looks good at night (duh), but almost impossible to enjoy viewing during the day. I know I will be getting polywood shutters for the windows but I might have to wait until my next tax return










So with this, would SilverFire V2 be my best option? I would prefer to roll since I don't really have all the necessities to spray, but if SF V2 is the best I will get a sprayer. Anyone have suggestions on a sprayer?










I also found this thread and if I cant do SilverFire, I might go this route. But then again I am having difficulties deciding what scale of grey I should be using with all this light.

" http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1284675 "


So far that is where I'm at. If anyone has any other suggestions please say them! I'll consider most anything. I hope that is enough information to help you guys help me. I really appreciate this forum and all the help/info it has.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itsZACyo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's up AVS helpers,
> 
> First time poster, PJ owner...first time everything here. I have spent about the last 4 weeks reading all that I can about setting up my home theater and I think this forum has some much information I'm confusing myself. I found some helpful information, but I thought I'd try to post my specific situation below for some custom help. I know I'm probably repeating a previous question, but this thread has over 150 pages. Anyways here is what I have so far, any help/suggestions would be great:
> 
> 
> Epson 8350
> 
> 
> Will be ceiling mounted 17+ ft away from wall (screen) with a Monoprice mount. " http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=5466&seq=1&format=2 "
> 
> 
> (Sorry I'm so new I cant post links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Will 17' be enough to achieve a good 120" viewing area? My wall is 7'10" x 14'9"
> 
> 
> How far from the ceiling should the projector be mounted? I have a ceiling fan that hangs 16" right in the middle of the room, and it needs to stay there as I'm in Las Vegas and it gets hot here!! The mount has an adjustable height of 4.7"-25.6" but like I said I have 17+ feet to work with.
> 
> 
> Screen Help:
> 
> I have been looking into SilverFire V2 but I am so confused as to what version (scale) of grey I should use. Here is my room setup attached. The first picture is close to how far the PJ will be mounted from the screen. The 2nd picture is at the front near the screening wall. As you can see i have a TON of ambient lighting from 3 58x39" windows, a sliding glass door, and another 39x58" window in the kitchen. it looks good at night (duh), but almost impossible to enjoy viewing during the day. I know I will be getting polywood shutters for the windows but I might have to wait until my next tax return
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So with this, would SilverFire V2 be my best option? I would prefer to roll since I don't really have all the necessities to spray, but if SF V2 is the best I will get a sprayer. Anyone have suggestions on a sprayer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this thread and if I cant do SilverFire, I might go this route. But then again I am having difficulties deciding what scale of grey I should be using with all this light.
> 
> " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1284675 "
> 
> 
> So far that is where I'm at. If anyone has any other suggestions please say them! I'll consider most anything. I hope that is enough information to help you guys help me. I really appreciate this forum and all the help/info it has.



My advice is stay away from that mount. It's garbage! Other than that, I don't think any screen will look good until that light situation is taken care of. The silver fire is ambitious for a beginner, especially if you'd prefer rolling it on. Maybe a Jamestown gray screen would be a better cheaper alternative. I don't think the fan will be too much of an issue, you should be able to get the beam just below it! Even if you can't afford a complete blackout job yet, I would invest in a simple set of thick curtains at least for the windows by the screen... Won't look perfect, but it will be watchable...


----------



## GoldenTiger

Someone mentioned getting an 8350 from an 8100 rma, is this the case for everyone now? My 8100 has a small issue that I did not send it in for yet, so I am wondering if I would get a fixed upgrade if I send it in? Thanks.


Edit, also what discs would I want to calibrate with... someone said something about a thx thing on incredibles?


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
Someone mentioned getting an 8350 from an 8100 rma, is this the case for everyone now? My 8100 has a small issue that I did not send it in for yet, so I am wondering if I would get a fixed upgrade if I send it in? Thanks.


Edit, also what discs would I want to calibrate with... someone said something about a thx thing on incredibles?
It seems anyone that was upgraded was going through repeated returns and special scenarios. If your looking for a free upgrade it might not work out that way.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* 
Someone mentioned getting an 8350 from an 8100 rma, is this the case for everyone now? My 8100 has a small issue that I did not send it in for yet, so I am wondering if I would get a fixed upgrade if I send it in? Thanks.


Edit, also what discs would I want to calibrate with... someone said something about a thx thing on incredibles?
Have you tried the free AVSHD?? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 


I had used Spears and Munsil BD before trying AVSHD. I was really impressed with AVSHD being that it is free and worked great! Give it a try.


----------



## FendersRule

I have the superior 8700UB, but a friend at work wanted a low cost, good quality projector that would be portable and wouldn't require much in the mounting process.


She wanted it to be usable outside for when they host "block party" movies too, but mainly for indoor. So I guess versatility is the key.


I recommended the 8350. Good call?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ERuiz* 
Have you tried the free AVSHD?? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 


I had used Spears and Munsil BD before trying AVSHD. I was really impressed with AVSHD being that it is free and worked great! Give it a try.
Awesome, I'll give it a shot, thanks







.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
It seems anyone that was upgraded was going through repeated returns and special scenarios. If your looking for a free upgrade it might not work out that way.
I was going to send it in anyway sometime, but figured I might do so sooner rather than later if it would possibly result in an upgrade, heh.







The issue is annoying but tolerable: switching between component and HDMI results in the picture going out-of-focus, requiring me to manually move the focus a bit on the projector itself to get it back into proper focus. So, definitely a real issue, but one I hadn't actually had fixed yet.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/20448394
> 
> 
> ... But a simple shift isn't enough to solve all cases. I've seen sample images posted here that seem to show panels tilted out of the image plane, which slightly shrinks one colour component relative to the others so that the amount of misconvergence varies from one side of the screen to the other...



This is true, and my 8350 is a case in point. Its left-right convergence is perfect on the left side, 1 pixel in the middle, and 2 pixels on the right side of the screen. Its up-down convergence is perfect everywhere.


Still, a menu-driven, 1-pixel-step-adjustment, even in a service menu, would allow this PJ to be 1 pixel on the left, perfect in the middle and 1 pixel on the right. That's twice as good as it is now. This would require panels with a few extra rows and columns, a firmware addition, and the graphics engine hardware to match. I don't think its free, but neither are numerous returns to disgruntled AVS customers. Maybe some day Epson will get the message.


----------



## gsmollin

which seems to be 80% of this thread.


And now for something completely different: Ever wonder what's inside that big white box of your Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 8350? Look here:

http://www.compassmicro.com/files/Po...ded%20diag.pdf


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itsZACyo* /forum/post/20469143
> 
> 
> What's up AVS helpers,
> 
> First time poster, PJ owner...first time everything here.



Gotta start somewhere / sometime.











> Quote:
> Epson 8350
> 
> 
> Will be ceiling mounted 17+ ft away from wall (screen) with a Monoprice mount. " http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=5466&seq=1&format=2 "
> 
> 
> (Sorry I'm so new I cant post links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Will 17' be enough to achieve a good 120" viewing area? My wall is 7'10" x 14'9"
> 
> 
> How far from the ceiling should the projector be mounted? I have a ceiling fan that hangs 16" right in the middle of the room, and it needs to stay there as I'm in Las Vegas and it gets hot here!! The mount has an adjustable height of 4.7"-25.6" but like I said I have 17+ feet to work with.



Two things.


If you cannot effectively suppress that amount of light, you have to reduce screen size to 110" diagonal, and place the PJ at it's closest possible Throw (11' 5")


Now a Simple Travis Rod setup w/ Black Out Curtains that effectively cover the front 1/2 of that window casing would do a LOT to mitigate the situation.


But your white ceiling and side walls are still gonna give you reflective issues to deal with in a dark setting. So those too should be considered for a re-do. The Ceiling at the very least.


I would also suggest, as you consider mounting the PJ closer, that you move the Fan to be over the seating area and place the PJ just ahead of the same. Perhaps the original 110 ac can be used to supply the PJ w/power.


[/quote]Screen Help:

I have been looking into SilverFire V2 but I am so confused as to what version (scale) of grey I should use. Here is my room setup attached. The first picture is close to how far the PJ will be mounted from the screen. The 2nd picture is at the front near the screening wall. As you can see i have a TON of ambient lighting from 3 58x39" windows, a sliding glass door, and another 39x58" window in the kitchen. it looks good at night (duh), but almost impossible to enjoy viewing during the day. I know I will be getting polywood shutters for the windows but I might have to wait until my next tax return










So with this, would SilverFire V2 be my best option? I would prefer to roll since I don't really have all the necessities to spray, but if SF V2 is the best I will get a sprayer. Anyone have suggestions on a sprayer?







[/quote]


Much depends as to if you can / will consider the above item changes. SF v2 4.0 would be the best choice if so. Otherwise SF v.2 2.0 and a total window treatment w/ Blackout Drapes is about the ONLY solution.


The other simple Gray? No chance with that at 17' throw. Ain't a'gonna happen. Neither will rolling on either paints. Get the $49.00 sprayer here:
http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html 

You'd spend almost as much on good rollers, a good Roller carriage, and still risk getting an inferior finish.



> Quote:
> So far that is where I'm at. If anyone has any other suggestions please say them! I'll consider most anything. I hope that is enough information to help you guys help me. I really appreciate this forum and all the help/info it has.




Well then consider all the above changes and by Golly you'll nail down an excellent end result. Anything less will be considerably less that such.


What's happening is this....you want a big, spectacular image that is watchable in at least some ambient light (...not "Open Patio Light"...)

and you want it to be as simple and affordable as possible without fudging on anything that will take away more than what other things offer.


Advice is only as good as the source, and only works as well as you follow such if it's worthy of consideration.


Your Call here. If you want to pursue the specifics in detail...we'll see a positive response soon.


----------



## WereWolf84

Anyone experience lag on this projector? Is it normal or it's due to the HDMI cable? should I use the high speed HDMI cable rather than the standard speed HDMI cable?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/20471769
> 
> 
> Anyone experience lag on this projector? Is it normal or it's due to the HDMI cable? should I use the high speed HDMI cable rather than the standard speed HDMI cable?



Yea, I would suggest you upgrade to high-speed HDMI cables. I game alot on the PS3/360 and have experienced ZERO lags.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WereWolf84* /forum/post/20471769
> 
> 
> Anyone experience lag on this projector? Is it normal or it's due to the HDMI cable? should I use the high speed HDMI cable rather than the standard speed HDMI cable?



HDMI cable introduces negligible lag. Lag is introduced in the signal processing. If you are having a lag problem, you can try selecting different modes from the menu. I don't know how large the lag is in the 8350, but I know the cabling is irrelevant.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I have an 8350 ceiling mounted 8ft high and 14ft from my wall. I painted my wall a diy neutral grey with poly mixed in and screen flok border. It looked really good except im being kicked out of my apartment and now i have to start over. Im probably only going to be there about a year so i dont want to go to crazy again so this time im going to do something simple. The projector is going to be about 8ft high again but this time about 18ft from the wall and a little more ambient light in the room. Im thinking about trying ProjectorCentrals white paint they used this time and maybe that mixed w poly if that even helps w white paint or gain. Not really sure what the poly does. But any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED because im A NOVICE and completely stuck on what to paint and still have a decent picture as what i just had before. THANKS


----------



## Gelinas

Hi All,


I am considering getting this projector for a room where it will be somewhere in the 13-12 foot range from the screen. I've looked at the calculator on projector central and am unsure what impact using more or less zoom will have on the image. Please forgive the likely newbish question.


Ideally, I'd like to use a 120" 16:9 screen, which based on the calculator is doable if I change the zoom value. Would this be a decent option in a somewhat light controlled environment?


----------



## niemion

How do you owners consider the fan noise level of the 8350 in comparison with other projectors you've own'ed or heard?


----------



## JukeBox360

What's the best true 1080P projector out there for the money?


----------



## vladd

That really depends on your price range and the features you want, not to mention mounting requirements. Options can range from the 8350 (~$1,500) to the LG CF3D (~$15,000).


----------



## Gelinas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/20476055
> 
> 
> What's the best true 1080P projector out there for the money?



Personaly, I'm thinking this epson is right up there and offers a lot for its low price. Unfortunately, I do not have the ability to see one in person.


----------



## JukeBox360

The cheaper the better but to a point. I don't care how good a 15000 could look. I'd never buy one lol


----------



## vladd

I hear you! Then I would have to agree with Gelinas that the 8350 is right up there. The brightness of this projector and the zoom allows for a wider variety of installations.


For better image quality, you could go up to the 8700 UB.


----------



## JukeBox360

Hmmm. Yeah. I'm all about great picture quality. Shame I can't even get an idea of what to expect until I were to actually buy it. Epson better then optoma?


----------



## vladd

The Epson is the only one I've had in my home and I don't feel I can make a great judgement based on the store setups I've seen, sorry.


I will say that the only thing I'm not "perfectly" satisfied with in regards to the 8350 is the black levels. But they were good enough that I did not want (or feel the need) to spend more to get better.


I'm very pleased with the picture quality.


----------



## Gelinas

would anyone be able to speak to my question a few posts back (i think its on the prior page now)


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Epson is the only one I've had in my home and I don't feel I can make a great judgement based on the store setups I've seen, sorry.
> 
> 
> I will say that the only thing I'm not "perfectly" satisfied with in regards to the 8350 is the black levels. But they were good enough that I did not want (or feel the need) to spend more to get better.
> 
> 
> I'm very pleased with the picture quality.



Have you had any troubles with your set?


----------



## vladd

Not yet. It is our about one pixel on the convergence but that is probably due to the lens shift I'm using. It's not noticeable from regular seating distance. I also do have any dust blob issues and it's been in a pretty harsh environment.


----------



## JukeBox360

Dust blob. I think I've seen that before. Random white spots of light?


----------



## helcik

I have just sent my comparison thoughts between 8350 and 8700UB. If you are interested, pls have a look:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post20480994


----------



## jpolachak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gelinas* /forum/post/20475118
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am considering getting this projector for a room where it will be somewhere in the 13-12 foot range from the screen. I've looked at the calculator on projector central and am unsure what impact using more or less zoom will have on the image. Please forgive the likely newbish question.
> 
> 
> Ideally, I'd like to use a 120" 16:9 screen, which based on the calculator is doable if I change the zoom value. Would this be a decent option in a somewhat light controlled environment?



You will be fine with zooming in the image. I have my projector zoomed almost all the way in. There is no picture loss that I can tell. Also there is a benefit to putting the projector closer to the screen. The closer it is to the screen the brighter the image will be. You are fine with your setup. So for 120" screen the minimum is 12' throw I personally would mount it at 12' 6" and call it a day.


----------



## lakersin2025

Four months and 660 hours using max vertical and horizontal lens shift and happy to report all is well. My 8350 is still working like brand new. I even have a curious 2 year old son who likes to turn the focus wheel on it (yes it is just sitting on a table 3 feet off the ground). I haven't cleaned the filter yet but I guess I probably should. Gotta open up to manual to see where it is and how to do it.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *niemion* /forum/post/20476014
> 
> 
> How do you owners consider the fan noise level of the 8350 in comparison with other projectors you've own'ed or heard?



Very minimal. I hardly ever notice it. My refrigerator, central air, etc. make more noise. It is there when movie stops, and in absolutely quiet scenes, but not enough to be bothered by it at all. Very quiet PJ by any measure.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/20469251
> 
> 
> Someone mentioned getting an 8350 from an 8100 rma, is this the case for everyone now? My 8100 has a small issue that I did not send it in for yet, so I am wondering if I would get a fixed upgrade if I send it in? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Edit, also what discs would I want to calibrate with... someone said something about a thx thing on incredibles?



Most Blu Ray Pixar movies now include a calibration section. Look for it under extras or special features. It will take you step by step through various test screens, which I found very useful is setting up contrast and brightness levels. It also enlightened me as to why you want HDMI range set at expanded and how, when coupled with the proper adjustments in the brightness/contrast controls, provides a much broader and deeper set of greyscale colors, which are essential when you are dealing with this PJ, which has less than plasma black levels to start with. After calibrating, I am much more pleased with the PQ and have the peace of mind of knowing I am maximizing my use of this fantastic piece of AV equipment.


Good luck, and please post your post calibrations settings so we can all compare.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *niemion* /forum/post/20476014
> 
> 
> How do you owners consider the fan noise level of the 8350 in comparison with other projectors you've own'ed or heard?



It is the lowest I have heard. It is amongst the lowest specified in its class. You won't find a 1080p HT PJ that is _significantly_ quieter.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/20476055
> 
> 
> What's the best true 1080P projector out there for the money?



The one that you like the best! ...for the money you spent.


----------



## tommyv2

Just need to blow off steam here:


I'm being sent my 4th 8350 projector due to convergence issues. This model is the absolute worst I've ever seen in terms of QC/Standards or I'm just the unluckiest guy ever.


Panel misconvergence is fine - having green/blue/magenta borders on every white object on the screen is unacceptable. I can see them from seating distance (13' or so) and it's insanely frustrating. Last projector has a green line on everything on the left side, new one has it on the right, another had magenta on every white horizontal surface.


Epson customer service has been great - the product is tragic. I don't care if it's $1299 or $119 or $3567 - they gotta make these things right. Every crappy $799 office projector I've run into has flawless convergence, how am I being stuck with every panel alignment problem in the free world?


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20485837
> 
> 
> Just need to blow off steam here:
> 
> 
> I'm being sent my 4th 8350 projector due to convergence issues. This model is the absolute worst I've ever seen in terms of QC/Standards or I'm just the unluckiest guy ever.
> 
> 
> Panel misconvergence is fine - having green/blue/magenta borders on every white object on the screen is unacceptable. I can see them from seating distance (13' or so) and it's insanely frustrating. Last projector has a green line on everything on the left side, new one has it on the right, another had magenta on every white horizontal surface.
> 
> 
> Epson customer service has been great - the product is tragic. I don't care if it's $1299 or $119 or $3567 - they gotta make these things right. Every crappy $799 office projector I've run into has flawless convergence, how am I being stuck with every panel alignment problem in the free world?



.....ah, you never got all of them, they sent a few of them to me as well










Hang in there.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20485727
> 
> 
> It is the lowest I have heard. It is amongst the lowest specified in its class. You won't find a 1080p HT PJ that is _significantly_ quieter.



+1. In ECO is almost whisper quiet. On Normal power it's still quite a bit quieter then my old 4805 was in eco mode. Advantage of that big a$$ case is lower speed fans


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20486091
> 
> 
> +1. In ECO is almost whisper quiet. On Normal power it's still quite a bit quieter then my old 4805 was in eco mode. Advantage of that big a$$ case is lower speed fans



The 8350 is pretty quiet... when you have it facing up, only. As soon as you ceiling mount it and change the display setting, the fan is much louder. It's too bad, really!


----------



## KlingonScum

Just got my 8350, haven't hooked it up yet - really excited about it, but wary of the concerns people have posted on this thread (Details: it's going in a ceiling mount upside down as opposed to sitting on a shelf at the rear of a room, and I've got a HCCV grey Da-lite screen it'll be hitting in a fully light controlled 15' square room). Got a pretty good price on it thanks to a $100 off gift card coupled with a 10% discount deal, so I got under $1100 shipped...


It's going to replace a Panasonic AX100u that I'm VERY annoyed at having to retire - it's only on its second bulb, but I've got the dreaded burnt blue polarizer issue. Really mad about that...I got the stupid thing in October of '07 (right when the prices fell due to the introduction of the AX200u's) and expected to get at least 6 years out of it like my last Panny, but the quality control on the unit makes me suspect it got made late on a Friday...


Quick warranty question - the 2 year warranty it comes with, is that full repair/replacement? I know the bulb warranty is only 90 days...I'm thinking about popping for a 3 year Squaretrade warranty on it, but I don't know if that warranty "starts" at the end of the 2 year manufacturer's warranty (I doubt it) or dates from the time of purchase, so if anybody knows that, I'd appreciate it...


I'll go ahead an post a comparison between my 8350 and the old AX100u in case anybody else is in the same position I am...


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 is pretty quiet... when you have it facing up, only. As soon as you ceiling mount it and change the display setting, the fan is much louder. It's too bad, really!



I have my hanging upside down directly above a row of my tester seating and it's extremely quiet in either mode. Can only hear during very quiet scenes.. A/C is louder...


----------



## JukeBox360

Went to have a look at this projector today. This thing is huge! Does this projector do full 1080P. Native not scale to it.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20486195
> 
> 
> The 8350 is pretty quiet... when you have it facing up, only. As soon as you ceiling mount it and change the display setting, the fan is much louder. It's too bad, really!



I didn't notice a change in the fan when I ceiling-mounted it. When you "changed the display setting", did you raise the lamp to the high setting? That would boost the fan.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/20487859
> 
> 
> Went to have a look at this projector today. This thing is huge! Does this projector do full 1080P. Native not scale to it.



It is a large, white box. The 8350 is a native 1920 x 1080p projector. It will also do 2:2 pulldown with 24p source.


----------



## JukeBox360

Nice! How does this one compare to the hd20? These are the two I'm trying to pick from.


----------



## doc750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20486195
> 
> 
> The 8350 is pretty quiet... when you have it facing up, only. As soon as you ceiling mount it and change the display setting, the fan is much louder. It's too bad, really!



mine is ceiling mounted and the fan is still quiet.


----------



## ERuiz

Mine is shelf mounted on the rear wall about 4' above the rear row of seats and it's barely audible in quiet scenes. During normal segments of the movie, it's no factor at all. Even on normal lamp mode.


----------



## invadergir

I have mine on a stand about 4 feet off the end of my bed. I use the ECO mode and i can sit right under the thing and barely notice it at all. I have a 50 inch RPLCD HDTV as well and that thing is loud when compare to the 8350. Plus it runs pretty cool in comparison to the old tv (which i still use when the projector isn't needed, but i would like too)


----------



## Santi8

Either Tommy has had 4 extremely loud units, or his hearing aid is turned way too high! The general consensus, while very large and bright, even in Normal mode, the fan noise pretty quiet. For a comparison, my 360 and ps3 are both tremendously louder than the 8350. Even my DVR box is more noticeable and it sits 8 feet farther away than the projector. Consider the fan noise a non issue on this model....


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20487860
> 
> 
> I didn't notice a change in the fan when I ceiling-mounted it. When you "changed the display setting", did you raise the lamp to the high setting? That would boost the fan.



When you change the display seeing to ceiling/front/reverse, the fan behaves differently, because having the bulb on the bottom of the unit brings more heat into the case. The fan goes faster in ceiling mode, it has nothing to do your bulb or image settings. Most projectors do that, in fact. I just wish it was as quiet in ceiling mode as regular mode - regular mode is pleasingly quiet!


For those of you saying this is a really quiet projector, there are many much quieter ones - the older Sanyo Zx series is amazingly quiet.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those of you saying this is a really quiet projector, there are many much quieter ones - the older Sanyo Zx series is amazingly quiet.



And I bet there are quieter ones than the Sanyo Zx, so what's your point?


----------



## tommyv2

Why's everyone so argumentative on here? I'm just here putting the "S" in AVS!


I'm just saying that everyone here keeps saying that the 8350 is very quiet - potential buyers want to know about the noise level. I'm just telling them that it's not *that* quiet - certainly no quieter than the 6100 or 8100. I've owned 5 6100s, 2 8100s, and going on my 4th 8350 - they all sound identical.


As a frame of reference, the 8350 on Eco mode, non-high altitude mode, ceiling mounted, is louder than a 2501-series Playstation 3 and the new Xbox 360S at 6-10 foot distances. Every room is different, of course, but those are my personal findings. I'm sure someone finds that information helpful, and I'm not here to argue on purpose.


----------



## s0ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20488119
> 
> 
> Mine is shelf mounted on the rear wall about 4' above the rear row of seats and it's barely audible in quiet scenes. During normal segments of the movie, it's no factor at all. Even on normal lamp mode.



The fan might be quiet compared with other projectors, but the dynamic iris is noisy! Sounds like a hard drive working constantly. Mine is mounted to the ceiling and above my head and I am forced to turn the dynamic iris off, otherwise I become insane.


The Panasonic 4000 together with the Sanyo z4000 probadly has the best working iris and silent.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s0ad* /forum/post/20489763
> 
> 
> The fan might be quiet compared with other projectors, but the dynamic iris is noisy! Sounds like a hard drive working constantly. Mine is mounted to the ceiling and above my head and I am forced to turn the dynamic iris off, otherwise I become insane.
> 
> 
> The Panasonic 4000 together with the Sanyo z4000 probadly has best working iris and silent.



Auto IRIS is ON in my setup but then again when I watch movies, I have the sound system above normal. On 99% of the movies I watch, I never hear the iris or fan, unless I'm watching a chess match.


----------



## tommyv2

Agreed. The iris is both very loud and very slow to adapt to scene changes, making it painful to use. However, the blacks and contrast are pretty good on the projector, so there's no immediately need for it.


----------



## s0ad

Well.. i watch all kind of movies and during silent scenes the noise is unacceptable, but i agree with you tommy, the projector delivers a stunning picture without the iris and the blacks are still decent


----------



## ravenlocke

For most human beings, the fan noise is more then acceptable. The iris seems to vary dramatically from unit to unit for it's noise levels. I usually have mine turned off as it's real world usefulness seems to be negligible.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20489473
> 
> 
> When you change the display seeing to ceiling/front/reverse, the fan behaves differently, because having the bulb on the bottom of the unit brings more heat into the case. The fan goes faster in ceiling mode, it has nothing to do your bulb or image settings. Most projectors do that, in fact. I just wish it was as quiet in ceiling mode as regular mode - regular mode is pleasingly quiet!
> 
> 
> For those of you saying this is a really quiet projector, there are many much quieter ones - the older Sanyo Zx series is amazingly quiet.



My Sanyo Z2000 fan was loud in comparison to the 8350.

The IRIS was loud(click-click) as well on the Z2000.


----------



## tommyv2

I meant the Sanyo Zx series, you know, Z3, Z5... I am aware the newer units are louder. The old ones are also very small, which makes the being quiet even more surprising, but then again they were also pretty dim, so you know... there's that


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20489683
> 
> 
> Why's everyone so argumentative on here? I'm just here putting the "S" in AVS!
> 
> 
> I'm just saying that everyone here keeps saying that the 8350 is very quiet - potential buyers want to know about the noise level. I'm just telling them that it's not *that* quiet - certainly no quieter than the 6100 or 8100. I've owned 5 6100s, 2 8100s, and going on my 4th 8350 - they all sound identical.
> 
> 
> As a frame of reference, the 8350 on Eco mode, non-high altitude mode, ceiling mounted, is louder than a 2501-series Playstation 3 and the new Xbox 360S at 6-10 foot distances. Every room is different, of course, but those are my personal findings. I'm sure someone finds that information helpful, and I'm not here to argue on purpose.



Ceiling mounted here as well. non-high alt. My phat 80gig PS3 is way louder then the 3 8350's I had in Normal mode. My Jasper white 360 when NOT running things from the DVD drive ie just fan noise is probably on part with the 8350 in ECO mode. With the DVD spinning it's no contest, even with it in another room the 8350 was quieter. With just about any time of music or audio on at any decent level, the fan noise on the 8350 is non-existent to me and I am not someone that likes really music/movies really loud.


My PS3 has only ever been quiet the first 5mins it's on, then it's a hair dryer.


----------



## pacemaker

when i first had my 8350/3600 i was very critical of the fan noise and sent the first one back. then i had convergence and dust issues, doh!

i think its normal to be over-critical of a new purchase and 8 weeks later the noise is not bothering me and it is ceiling mounted right above my head

i agree i would prefer it if the fan didnt speed up when inverting the pj which i found it does because the circuit board is on the bottom of the unit which becomes the top when its upside down and as heat rises gets hotter


if like me you use a pc or a scaler to drive it you can always invert the image on that and leave the pj in normal mode










i run it together with a sanyo Z4 and in normal they are equal for noise. But, the iris is noisier ( actually on the Z4 it is non-audible) which seems a weird design fault


----------



## tommyv2

Anyone else's projector have a solid green vertical line on either the left or right side of the screen? All 4 I've had have it, 3 on the left, one on the right. When you check the convergence, it checks out reasonably well, but that 1-pixel wide line is always there.


Example is like someone else's here, post #4489: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4489


----------



## KlingonScum

Quote:

Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* 
Nice! How does this one compare to the hd20? These are the two I'm trying to pick from.
Well, the HD20 is a DLP and this one's an LCD, so you'll get a lot better placement options since the 8350 has full optical lens shift and a great 2.1x zoom lens on it. The 8350 is also a little brighter and has a dynamic iris (which is both a pro and con; some people have reported the iris is noisy on the 8350). For what it's worth, the warranty on the 8350 is better too; 2 years vs 1 year on the HD20.


I was a little disappointed when I saw how big the thing is as well; I always thought my AX100u was huge and this is about the same size. One thing I do like better on the 8350 is the lens shift is set using thumbwheels instead of a "joystick" - I HATED using the joystick on the front of my AX100u.


I just got mine earlier this week, and I'm still fiddling with the mount; I have a DIY mount made out of a couple of pieces of pipe, the angled "joint" off an old DirecTV dish, and a flat plate with holes in it; I need to re-drill the holes in the plate to match the mounting holes on the bottom of the 8350, and I need to shift the whole thing over about 6 inches; my AX100u had its lens in the same spot with the result the left side of my image was canted inward a tiny bit since the lens wasn't dead center of the screen and I don't want to live with that with my new PJ...


----------



## newfmp3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *KlingonScum*
Well, the HD20 is a DLP and this one's an LCD, so you'll get a lot better placement options since the 8350 has full optical lens shift and a great 2.1x zoom lens on it. The 8350 is also a little brighter and has a dynamic iris (which is both a pro and con; some people have reported the iris is noisy on the 8350). For what it's worth, the warranty on the 8350 is better too; 2 years vs 1 year on the HD20.


I was a little disappointed when I saw how big the thing is as well; I always thought my AX100u was huge and this is about the same size. One thing I do like better on the 8350 is the lens shift is set using thumbwheels instead of a "joystick" - I HATED using the joystick on the front of my AX100u.


I just got mine earlier this week, and I'm still fiddling with the mount; I have a DIY mount made out of a couple of pieces of pipe, the angled "joint" off an old DirecTV dish, and a flat plate with holes in it; I need to re-drill the holes in the plate to match the mounting holes on the bottom of the 8350, and I need to shift the whole thing over about 6 inches; my AX100u had its lens in the same spot with the result the left side of my image was canted inward a tiny bit since the lens wasn't dead center of the screen and I don't want to live with that with my new PJ...
You can get a decent mount for about 60 bucks, less then that if you cheap out. Nothing worse then a bad mount, you waste more time fighting with it and trying to make it work and aim it right, it is not worth it imho


----------



## ravenlocke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *KlingonScum*
Well, the HD20 is a DLP and this one's an LCD, so you'll get a lot better placement options since the 8350 has full optical lens shift and a great 2.1x zoom lens on it. The 8350 is also a little brighter and has a dynamic iris (which is both a pro and con; some people have reported the iris is noisy on the 8350). For what it's worth, the warranty on the 8350 is better too; 2 years vs 1 year on the HD20.


I was a little disappointed when I saw how big the thing is as well; I always thought my AX100u was huge and this is about the same size. One thing I do like better on the 8350 is the lens shift is set using thumbwheels instead of a "joystick" - I HATED using the joystick on the front of my AX100u.


I just got mine earlier this week, and I'm still fiddling with the mount; I have a DIY mount made out of a couple of pieces of pipe, the angled "joint" off an old DirecTV dish, and a flat plate with holes in it; I need to re-drill the holes in the plate to match the mounting holes on the bottom of the 8350, and I need to shift the whole thing over about 6 inches; my AX100u had its lens in the same spot with the result the left side of my image was canted inward a tiny bit since the lens wasn't dead center of the screen and I don't want to live with that with my new PJ...
The blacks are also significantly better on the 8350 as well, which was the deciding factor for me. Dark grey is as good as the hd20 can get, regardless of settings.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Is there a problem w how close or how far the 8350 is to a ceiling fan.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/20491368
> 
> 
> Is there a problem w how close or how far the 8350 is to a ceiling fan.



hmmm I would think that is if the fan is too close to the pj (pj behind fan), then it could obviously get in the way of the image. Though lens shift should help with that.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20489683
> 
> 
> Why's everyone so argumentative on here? I'm just here putting the "S" in AVS!
> 
> 
> I'm just saying that everyone here keeps saying that the 8350 is very quiet - potential buyers want to know about the noise level. I'm just telling them that it's not *that* quiet - certainly no quieter than the 6100 or 8100. I've owned 5 6100s, 2 8100s, and going on my 4th 8350 - they all sound identical.
> 
> 
> As a frame of reference, the 8350 on Eco mode, non-high altitude mode, ceiling mounted, is louder than a 2501-series Playstation 3 and the new Xbox 360S at 6-10 foot distances. Every room is different, of course, but those are my personal findings. I'm sure someone finds that information helpful, and I'm not here to argue on purpose.



You asked a question and people responded. Aside from a few sarcastic comments about your hearing aid, all I saw were answers sincerely saying this thing is quiet. We're all friends still. You asked. They answered. Maybe you wanted to hear another answer, but I will join the chorus: it is pretty darn quiet. My XBOX360 makes more noise. My computer when I'm burning a disc, makes more noise. My fridge 20 feet away makes more noise when cooling. Is it audible? Yes. Will you hear during quiet conversations with no music? Yes, but not enough to trade it in. But in fairness, mine is not ceiling mounted but on a stand, right behind my head. Just my two cents.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20490675
> 
> 
> Anyone else's projector have a solid green vertical line on either the left or right side of the screen? All 4 I've had have it, 3 on the left, one on the right. When you check the convergence, it checks out reasonably well, but that 1-pixel wide line is always there.
> 
> 
> Example is like someone else's here, post #4489: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4489



mines along the bottom


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/20491046
> 
> 
> The blacks are also significantly better on the 8350 as well, which was the deciding factor for me. Dark grey is as good as the hd20 can get, regardless of settings.



That's a big reason i'd try this one then. I like good black level.


----------



## wickedg8gt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20491690
> 
> 
> hmmm I would think that is if the fan is too close to the pj (pj behind fan), then it could obviously get in the way of the image. Though lens shift should help with that.



Your rite on that aspect but i was thinkin to the left or rite. My new apartment has a ceiling fan about 2 to 5ft from where my projector is goin. I was just bein cautious that with the fan on it would mess something up in the projector. To help anyone out on the projector noise mine has always been ceiling mounted above me, above my couch and i never hear anything from it over my ps3 and surround sound.


----------



## veekay

Have to agree on this one 100%. I had multiple 6100's and older units and they all are rather "loud". I always run in Eco mode mainly because the noise difference is just too much. Ours is ceiling mounted, but also less than 2 feet behind us (and 10 feet up). I know before when it was just on a shelf things were better, but never enough to run at full power. Granted we just got a new AC unit, but that is much quieter than the PJ is even in eco mode.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20489683
> 
> 
> Why's everyone so argumentative on here? I'm just here putting the "S" in AVS!
> 
> 
> I'm just saying that everyone here keeps saying that the 8350 is very quiet - potential buyers want to know about the noise level. I'm just telling them that it's not *that* quiet - certainly no quieter than the 6100 or 8100. I've owned 5 6100s, 2 8100s, and going on my 4th 8350 - they all sound identical.
> 
> 
> As a frame of reference, the 8350 on Eco mode, non-high altitude mode, ceiling mounted, is louder than a 2501-series Playstation 3 and the new Xbox 360S at 6-10 foot distances. Every room is different, of course, but those are my personal findings. I'm sure someone finds that information helpful, and I'm not here to argue on purpose.


----------



## veekay

About the zooming and picture loss... I am throwing 150" from almost 20' back and I know when I go from one extreme to the other (size wise) the difference is like night and day. When zoomed in all the way everything is so crisp and when zoomed out for my distance it just gets blah - less detail and more muted.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/20482692
> 
> 
> You will be fine with zooming in the image. I have my projector zoomed almost all the way in. There is no picture loss that I can tell. Also there is a benefit to putting the projector closer to the screen. The closer it is to the screen the brighter the image will be. You are fine with your setup. So for 120" screen the minimum is 12' throw I personally would mount it at 12' 6" and call it a day.


----------



## Vao

Can you throw 150" from 17' ?


----------



## wickedg8gt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/20493173
> 
> 
> Can you throw 150" from 17' ?



Yes u can. My 8350 lens is almost eaxctly 17ft from the wall and i got a 166in in diagonal image before it touched the sides and top of the wall


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vao* /forum/post/20493173
> 
> 
> Can you throw 150" from 17' ?



That's big, probably too big imho. Go high gain screen for sure.


----------



## tommyv2

I keep getting 8350s with green lines along the side of the panel. Here's my thought:


When the D7 panels come off the line, they are tested by some machine. Ones that are perfect go the the 8700, and the ones that aren't go to the 8350. That explains why I can't seem to get an 8350 with a decent panel. I'm going to try a few more before I request to be sent an 8100 again, which had technically inferior panels but at least they lined up once in a while! I don't care about better contrast and inorganic panels if all I ever see is how misaligned they are.


***and yes, I'm aware that the 8700 has other different hardware, like polarizers, filters, etc that give it the "Ultra Black" designation, but I'm sure the actual RGB panels are the same.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20493333
> 
> 
> That's big, probably too big imho. Go high gain screen for sure.



Vao is using a high gain v.2 mix (2.0)


He'll be fine.











..and a word to those relating noise concerns. Do everyone else asking about such things a favor and consider that 22 db in econ mode is incredibly quiet for a Pj w/2000 Lumens. Virtually "unheard of" until recently in fact, when prior models with just 1200 lumens might clock in at a thunderous 32 -36 db.


And if your PJ is just 2'-3' way from you, please take such into consideration.


And if you have the ears God gave an Owl, remember that the average end user does not fly in those circles.


And try not to compare a PJ with a 200 watt high intensity heat source requiring a fan assisted cooling system with a Game Station. It's just not a valid comparison.


Just simply temper comments around the fact that what you experience personally is exactly that...a personal experience based on personal observations based on personal circumstances. Your comments related a bit too profusely or shall we say...over emphasized due to your personal standards of measure might indeed cause a otherwise deserving potential owner to hold up in concern or confusion, or even look elsewhere when in fact the solution is there, right at hand.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20493546
> 
> 
> I keep getting 8350s with green lines along the side of the panel. Here's my thought:
> 
> 
> When the D7 panels come off the line, they are tested by some machine. Ones that are perfect go the the 8700, and the ones that aren't go to the 8350. That explains why I can't seem to get an 8350 with a decent panel. I'm going to try a few more before I request to be sent an 8100 again, which had technically inferior panels but at least they lined up once in a while! I don't care about better contrast and inorganic panels if all I ever see is how misaligned they are.
> 
> 
> ***and yes, I'm aware that the 8700 has other different hardware, like polarizers, filters, etc that give it the "Ultra Black" designation, but I'm sure the actual RGB panels are the same.



All I can say is that you must be a fan of the Conspiracy Theory Folks.










Without being intentionally irritating, to state that Epson would hand pick ANY component and shunt off to their most popular, best selling model all of the inferior components is just a ridiculous thing to suggest. I have installed 15 8350s and NONE have had a single solitary issue of any of the types described by what is in fact a micrispoic percentage of the number of End User out there.


I do understand the consternation someone might feel though, having tried 2-3 units and received 2-3 with similar issues.


I just installed a JVC X3 in Denver and at 30 hours, the Bulb exploded when the PJ was turned on. But at the same approximate time I installed an identical PJ in Memphis and it's cruised past 120 hours with no such issues, including the dreaded 100 hr Bulb dimming scenario.


I'm PO'd about the former, and happy the latter seems to be exempt from those issues...issues loudly complained about on the RS-40 / X3 thread by just enough people to make some be excessively...if not unnecessarily concerned.


In reality, what with this being the age of empowered commentary via the Web, it's all about being prudent and thoughtful about how one expresses themselves. Some think about how others will interpert and react over what they post, while others can be so disgusted with a personal experience they will rant, and judge everything out there based on their own experience.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20493721
> 
> 
> All I can say is that you must be a fan of the Conspiracy Theory Folks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without being intentionally irritating, to state that Epson would hand pick ANY component and shunt off to their most popular, best selling model all of the inferior components is just a ridiculous thing to suggest. I have installed 15 8350s and NONE have had a single solitary issue of any of the types described by what is in fact a micrispoic percentage of the number of End User out there.
> 
> 
> I do understand the consternation someone might feel though, having tried 2-3 units and received 2-3 with similar issues.
> 
> 
> I just installed a JVC X3 in Denver and at 30 hours, the Bulb exploded when the PJ was turned on. But at the same approximate time I installed an identical PJ in Memphis and it's cruised past 120 hours with no such issues, including the dreaded 100 hr Bulb dimming scenario.
> 
> 
> I'm PO'd about the former, and happy the latter seems to be exempt from those issues...issues loudly complained about on the RS-40 / X3 thread by just enough people to make some be excessively...if not unnecessarily concerned.
> 
> 
> In reality, what with this being the age of empowered commentary via the Web, it's all about being prudent and thoughtful about how one expresses themselves. Some think about how others will interpert and react over what they post, while others can be so disgusted with a personal experience they will rant, and judge everything out there based on their own experience.



1. Did you actually look for all the issues reported in this thread (red/green haze in bottom/upper corners, green strip on left side of screen, dust blob) when you installed these projectors?


2. Have you gone back to these installations and checked for these issues?


----------



## newfmp3

....and I choose not to ignore obvious quality control issues either. I'm on number 5 in 4 months.


----------



## tommyv2

I'm a customer like everyone else here - but you know what? I feel extra angry because I was upgraded to an 8350 - my original purchase was a 6100, which was flawless and served me so well for 1.5 years until the polarizer went. I didn't ask for an upgrade - I simply asked for a projector that was "as good" as the one I paid for - so many units later, I'm not happy at all! I'm not some dude who "paid $1299 and wanted the performance of $3999" or something like that. I paid $2000 for an Epson 6100, and I want it to perform like an Epson 6100. So far, that has not been the case!


If you have seen/installed 15 PERFECT 8350s, then please! Send me one! I'll send you one of these that I have - brand new - 1 day old - because they are all wonderful, right?


As a consumer, I have a right to express my concern of the QC of these projectors publicly. Something at Epson happened to make these $1200 when they used to be much more - cutting quality, plain and simple. Now I am an unfortunate (possibly terribly unlucky) victim of *not* getting what I paid for. Even if I represent a small minority, I'm not blind - I'm getting brand new projectors with visible defects that wouldn't pass anyone's QC - if they ever did any.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a customer like everyone else here - but you know what? I feel extra angry because I was upgraded to an 8350 - my original purchase was a 6100, which was flawless and served me so well for 1.5 years until the polarizer went. I didn't ask for an upgrade - I simply asked for a projector that was "as good" as the one I paid for - so many units later, I'm not happy at all! I'm not some dude who "paid $1299 and wanted the performance of $3999" or something like that. I paid $2000 for an Epson 6100, and I want it to perform like an Epson 6100. So far, that has not been the case!
> 
> 
> If you have seen/installed 15 PERFECT 8350s, then please! Send me one! I'll send you one of these that I have - brand new - 1 day old - because they are all wonderful, right?
> 
> 
> As a consumer, I have a right to express my concern of the QC of these projectors publicly. Something at Epson happened to make these $1200 when they used to be much more - cutting quality, plain and simple. Now I am an unfortunate (possibly terribly unlucky) victim of *not* getting what I paid for. Even if I represent a small minority, I'm not blind - I'm getting brand new projectors with visible defects that wouldn't pass anyone's QC - if they ever did any.



Post some pictures so we can see what it is you are talking about.


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20494249
> 
> 
> Post some pictures so we can see what it is you are talking about.



My issues are identical to what is shown in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4489 

Sometimes it's on the left, sometimes on the right (per projector, it doesn't move). It's there all the time, no source required. Same on all 4 8350s, 3 brand new and one refurb.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And try not to compare a PJ with a 200 watt high intensity heat source requiring a fan assisted cooling system with a Game Station. It's just not a valid comparison.



Comparing the fan sound to something that most of us are familiar with is completely valid. When you say it's 22db loud, most people have no idea what you're talking about. If you say it's noticeably quieter than PS3 and Xbox 360, it gives people a form of comparison.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20494249
> 
> 
> Post some pictures so we can see what it is you are talking about.



Oh ok, and it's just one line, one pixel wide?


----------



## tommyv2

It's 1-2 pixels wide. I know it's just the convergence of the green panel sticking out - but seriously now - if someone had ever just turned the thing on to test it - even for 10 seconds - they would've seen it and failed it. 4 projectors in a row?


Convergence issues happen and that's fine, but when they're as obvious as 4-5 foot tall green lines, then it's unacceptable. This is a projector - made to display things large, and therefore show the flaws large, too. QC needs to check things as they're used, because that green line can be half a centimeter thick and it's incredibly distracting.


----------



## justinkwaugh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20494469
> 
> 
> Comparing the fan sound to something that most of us are familiar with is completely valid. When you say it's 22db loud, most people have no idea what you're talking about. If you say it's noticeably quieter than PS3 and Xbox 360, it gives people a form of comparison.



Well to compare apples to apples then..


Xbox 360 Elite is about 50dB at idle, and the Xbox 360 Slim is about 45dB at idle. They go up about 5 dB under load.


PS3 about 49dB at idle, and goes up to about 55dB under load. When playing a BD movie, the Slim is about 60dB and the Fat about 70dB.


So objectively, if the 8350 is 22dB in eco mode, than it is MUCH quieter than the xbox 360 or ps3 (the gaming systems are nearly 7x louder at idle).


----------



## Allforce

Can't you literally just zoom that image then by less than an inch around and the green line will be absorbed by the frame of your screen? Or are you just projecting on a wall?


It seems like picking nits is all.


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well to compare apples to apples then..
> 
> 
> Xbox 360 Elite is about 50dB at idle, and the Xbox 360 Slim is about 45dB at idle. They go up about 5 dB under load.
> 
> 
> PS3 about 49dB at idle, and goes up to about 55dB under load. When playing a BD movie, the Slim is about 60dB and the Fat about 70dB.
> 
> 
> So objectively, if the 8350 is 22dB in eco mode, than it is MUCH quieter than the xbox 360 or ps3 (the gaming systems are nearly 7x louder at idle).



There ya go! Some data to back up my observation! Thanks!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well to compare apples to apples then..
> 
> 
> Xbox 360 Elite is about 50dB at idle, and the Xbox 360 Slim is about 45dB at idle. They go up about 5 dB under load.
> 
> 
> PS3 about 49dB at idle, and goes up to about 55dB under load. When playing a BD movie, the Slim is about 60dB and the Fat about 70dB.
> 
> 
> So objectively, if the 8350 is 22dB in eco mode, than it is MUCH quieter than the xbox 360 or ps3 (the gaming systems are nearly 7x louder at idle).



+1 Having both systems and the 8350, I would say this is spot on.


----------



## itsZACyo

Dude, MM you are the MAN!! Thanks for the reply. Sorry I haven't been able to read it as I lost my entire movie collection (2TB) the other day and have been trying to get it back but no luck, so I had to put the theater setup on hold. I appreciate the advice and I will be covering those windows soon with polywood shutters. I just want to be sure I'm doing the correct scale of grey for my wall for both the small amount of lighting I'll have after the shutters, and also at night when it's pretty dark in my house. So I'm thinking maybe SF v3 would be in the middle of pure blackout and some AL. As far as painting, don't tell my wife that! She'll agree with you and want to paint ASAP! But we will be painting soon. The fan would be difficult in my situation, so that might have to stay there. Now since I won't be able to move the fan that means the PJ will still have to be further than you said, so I guess I'll be spraying. I'm thinking like I said i will be trying SFv2 3.0 will be my route. I hope it looks good! Thanks again for all the help on this. Now time to spend the next few weekends building a screen!! Hopefully I'll be able to show you the end result.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20471310
> 
> 
> Gotta start somewhere / sometime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two things.
> 
> 
> If you cannot effectively suppress that amount of light, you have to reduce screen size to 110" diagonal, and place the PJ at it's closest possible Throw (11' 5")
> 
> 
> Now a Simple Travis Rod setup w/ Black Out Curtains that effectively cover the front 1/2 of that window casing would do a LOT to mitigate the situation.
> 
> 
> But your white ceiling and side walls are still gonna give you reflective issues to deal with in a dark setting. So those too should be considered for a re-do. The Ceiling at the very least.
> 
> 
> I would also suggest, as you consider mounting the PJ closer, that you move the Fan to be over the seating area and place the PJ just ahead of the same. Perhaps the original 110 ac can be used to supply the PJ w/power.



Screen Help:

I have been looking into SilverFire V2 but I am so confused as to what version (scale) of grey I should use. Here is my room setup attached. The first picture is close to how far the PJ will be mounted from the screen. The 2nd picture is at the front near the screening wall. As you can see i have a TON of ambient lighting from 3 58x39" windows, a sliding glass door, and another 39x58" window in the kitchen. it looks good at night (duh), but almost impossible to enjoy viewing during the day. I know I will be getting polywood shutters for the windows but I might have to wait until my next tax return










So with this, would SilverFire V2 be my best option? I would prefer to roll since I don't really have all the necessities to spray, but if SF V2 is the best I will get a sprayer. Anyone have suggestions on a sprayer?







[/quote]


Much depends as to if you can / will consider the above item changes. SF v2 4.0 would be the best choice if so. Otherwise SF v.2 2.0 and a total window treatment w/ Blackout Drapes is about the ONLY solution.


The other simple Gray? No chance with that at 17' throw. Ain't a'gonna happen. Neither will rolling on either paints. Get the $49.00 sprayer here:

" http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html "

You'd spend almost as much on good rollers, a good Roller carriage, and still risk getting an inferior finish.





Well then consider all the above changes and by Golly you'll nail down an excellent end result. Anything less will be considerably less that such.


What's happening is this....you want a big, spectacular image that is watchable in at least some ambient light (...not "Open Patio Light"...)

and you want it to be as simple and affordable as possible without fudging on anything that will take away more than what other things offer.


Advice is only as good as the source, and only works as well as you follow such if it's worthy of consideration.


Your Call here. If you want to pursue the specifics in detail...we'll see a positive response soon.[/quote]


----------



## viper98912

If you can hear the iris or the fan, you need a better or louder sound system.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20496614
> 
> 
> If you can hear the iris or the fan, you need a better or louder sound system.



Your sound system must have issues if you are hearing a loud hiss during silent passages that you can't hear the fan/iris.


----------



## ERuiz

Looking great, werewolf! I can say that this pj is a great buy for it's price. Those of you still on the fence deciding to make the jump, go ahead, you will be pleased.


----------



## Nile River

Good info. I am considering this projector or the HC4000.


----------



## wickedg8gt

If I have a 17ft throw from lens to wall should i go with a white or grey painted wall. I want the image to be about 150 inches. Im thinkin about using a Sherwin Williams mix


----------



## n1kki6

Im just over an 11ft throw at 104". My black levels are ok, but if I moved the project back a foot or two would the black levels go up? I like where the projector is hanging now so if it would be a minimal enhancement I would prefer to leave it but it looks like the optimal throw is 14ft from projector reviews.


----------



## MississippiMan

Ahem.....,


Screen shots, eh? Please excuse........most are "ambient Light in room shots,


82" Diagonal Silver Fire 3.0 in Family Room








































122" diagonal Silver Fire 2.0 in High Ambient light and viewed at an extreme angle;














































.....a little Fuzzy because of moving image;



















110" diagonal



















Here's the 8350......











Just a sampling...and no real attempt to optimize things to present "Eye Candy" images, what with most all being taken in some degree of ambient light, and no "Zooming in to Frame" technique. Due to the qualities inherent in the 8350, everything still looks better under the conditions shown that would otherwise be expected.


Next time....the shots will be formatted to show "Best Possible" imagery.


----------



## tommyv2

MississippiMan,


I see you got the 8350 mounted face up. No wonder you think it's quiet


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tommyv2* 
MississippiMan,


I see you got the 8350 mounted face up. No wonder you think it's quiet










It's the only one installed in that position out of well over a Dozen. Look closely...it's Hind End is also resting recessed within the Soffit's interior.

Every single other unit was ceiling Mounted in a inverted position.


I got no issue with people relating things they encounter, but in no way will I accept out of hand criticisms coming from individuals about 22 db noise levels when the distance they maintain from the PJ is under 5' away. Nor will the fact they have exceptional hearing mitigate a posted response that would seem to relate to other potential End Users that the Epson 8350 is a noisy unit. No sir! It os one of the quietest in the industry, and INCREDIBLY quiet when one considers that is sports 2000 lumens output.


Different people have different levels of hearing, just they also have different eyesight. 22 db is virtually inaudible to 98%+ of all humans old enough to personally possess a PJ. Bat Men and Owl People are not included in that reference.


But no one can ever be correct when making effusive statements that blanket-tedly condemn a product based on their own singular experience.


tommyv.2, you went so far as to state just recently above that the older Sanyo LCDs were quieter? (...or "incredibly quiet I recall...) I'm sorry but that is NOT true. Every previous Sanyo LCD in existence has had a db level of over 25 db. In Econo modes. When the Z1-2-3-4-5s came out, yessir, they were very quiet in comparison to the DLPs or other LCDs, a fact that made them very desirable. But the lowest db measurements were always achieved in Econo mode.
_

(I AM sorry you have has so many "visual' issues though...that is very unfortunate and represents a bad string of luck.)_


Even so, any Fan noise measurement below 29 db was considered excellent in comparison to the 35-38 db Express Train-sounding DLPs out there. And they were alwas measyre witha distance of a minimum of 5' from the Mic. to the PJ.


The entire point rests upon just how well...and how accurate any Poster wants to present an opinion...or a "dead to right" factoid. Even a mistaken comment, introduced with some degree of balance, will seldom experience a vociferous rebuttal. But uninformed, untrue or unfounded statements...on a Thread dedicated to relating points about a very popular PJ, those must be addressed. That then was the reason for my posted comments, not any attempt to stymie or stifle anyone's right to post points for discussion.


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
Bat Men and Owl People are not included in that reference.
I literally LOL.


----------



## deewon

I bought an 8350 a couple of weeks ago and have been annoyed by something I am hoping you guys can help with. Specifically during the black and white parts of black swan and Kill Bill the picture seems grainy. Not out of focus or pixelated, but grainy. This is sometimes the case on other movies as well, but seems to really jump out at me during the B&W scenes.


When I first got this PJ (upgraded from an Acer PH530 after it was stolen from my house) I used Art's calibration numbers. Overall I'm thrilled with the projector, but am not sure what's causing the grainy images.


Anybody have any idea what I can do to fix this, or is this just something inherent in this projector which I somehow missed during extensive research while PJ hunting?


Thanks!


----------



## jfried

Thought I'd check back in after a couple month hiatus, but see not much has changed - half of each pages posts are from 2 folks on their 38th 3850 due to convergence issues using their 3 panel PJ as a large computer monitor instead of buying a more appropriate DLP or single panel LCD. Or, now, discussing how noisy it is.


I'll check back in another couple months, maybe.


John F

LV NV


----------



## ERuiz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jfried*
Thought I'd check back in after a couple month hiatus, but see not much has changed - half of each pages posts are from 2 folks on their 38th 3850 due to convergence issues using their 3 panel PJ as a large computer monitor instead of buying a more appropriate DLP or single panel LCD. Or, now, discussing how noisy it is.


I'll check back in another couple months, maybe.


John F

LV NV
Lol +1


----------



## KlingonScum

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
You can get a decent mount for about 60 bucks, less then that if you cheap out. Nothing worse then a bad mount, you waste more time fighting with it and trying to make it work and aim it right, it is not worth it imho
The only thing "wrong" with my mount is the metal plate I attach to the bottom of the projector (and then I bolt the plate to my DIY mount) is too small; it doesn't cover all the mounting holes on the 8350. The mounting holes on my AX100u (and my LC75u before that) were closer together than the ones on the 8350 even though the projectors are comparable in size. I've used this mount for the past 10 years with two different projectors, but the screw holes on the bottom of the 8350 are REALLY far apart...


One problem I've got is that I need at least a 24" drop from my ceiling to mount my projector (long story). So...I'm going to give the 25.6" extension universal "VideoSecu" mount a try; a guy reviewed that mount on...Jeff Bezos' site...







... and was able to use it, with minor modifications, successfully with his 8100, and another guy based on the 8100 guy's review was able to get it to work with his 8350 in about 30 minutes flat. I'm hoping I can swing that as well as I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to this sort of thing and probably should be kept away from power tools...


----------



## justinkwaugh

Here's some eye candy-ish shots (only cause lights are off):


Have been doing home theater reno for over a year and nearly done now. Shots are of a couple scenes from the WOW disk, on a 110" fixed frame DIY screen using Center Stage XD material. Throw distance is about 12', so it is fully zoomed. This is cinema+eco mode, no calibration, with lights off.

Attachment 213515 

Attachment 213516


----------



## invadergir




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deewon* /forum/post/20505581
> 
> 
> I bought an 8350 a couple of weeks ago and have been annoyed by something I am hoping you guys can help with. Specifically during the black and white parts of black swan and Kill Bill the picture seems grainy. Not out of focus or pixelated, but grainy. This is sometimes the case on other movies as well, but seems to really jump out at me during the B&W scenes.
> 
> 
> When I first got this PJ (upgraded from an Acer PH530 after it was stolen from my house) I used Art's calibration numbers. Overall I'm thrilled with the projector, but am not sure what's causing the grainy images.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any idea what I can do to fix this, or is this just something inherent in this projector which I somehow missed during extensive research while PJ hunting?
> 
> 
> Thanks!





Nothing wrong with the projector at all, it is just the film stock used for the films. The grain is the director's intent and is meant to be seen that way. Black Swan was a very grainy looking film in theaters too, so was 300, Minority Report and many other films.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Using Expanded HDMI, rather than decrease "bright" I've created a custom gamma curve, which starts below the diagonal "guide line" on the graph. The defaults leave a lot of available space both at the high and low ends.


Looks good. I'm having fits trying to use my I1 and HCFR. If I slavishly follow "the numbers" it recommends... Let's just say I've become an authority on dialing in a putrid image!


Most of my attempts started in Natural. Starting in Cinema mode (just for a change of scenery) I got more realistic results if I dropped main-menu saturation to minus 25.


I thought I had a dead I1. I got a a second one which yielded the same result.


----------



## deewon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *invadergir* /forum/post/20507132
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with the projector at all, it is just the film stock used for the films. The grain is the director's intent and is meant to be seen that way. Black Swan was a very grainy looking film in theaters too, so was 300, Minority Report and many other films.



Hmmm. Well maybe if I can be confident that there isn't anything wrong with my new PJ this will be less annoying. I hope.


Thanks for your .02!


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20497947
> 
> 
> Your sound system must have issues if you are hearing a loud hiss during silent passages that you can't hear the fan/iris.



Its not the sound system, its the ringing in your ears from the loud passages that masks the fan noise during silent passages.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20505503
> 
> 
> 
> ...Even so, any Fan noise measurement below 29 db was considered excellent in comparison to the 35-38 db Express Train-sounding DLPs out there. And they were alwas measyre witha distance of a minimum of 5' from the Mic. to the PJ...



This brings up a good point. What standard is being used to measure the fan noise in all these projectors? Is there a standard? By something as simple as moving the mic to 5 feet from the PJ, the noise measurement can be 4 dB lower than at 1 meter, which is the distance in most "standards." Then there is the polar pattern. Just like loudspeakers, the fan noise is higher on axis with the exhaust port than off to the side. So do we integrate a 4-pi steradian envelope and include all the nodes in the sound field to average-down the number?


I assume the SPL reading is A-weighted. Even I would take that shortcut. I also assume anechoic conditions.


One last comment: When it comes to putting the "S" in "AVS", words like "louder than an X-box" have no "S". There is no standard X-box in Sevres. Over in the game console forums one guy is complaining that his X-box/PS3 sounds like a jet engine, and the next guy says its quiet. I think there is too much variability in game console noise to make that a useful comparison. Scientifically, one uses phons, or sones to describe loudness, although we are usually stuck with the measure of sound pressure, SPL. Manfs won't even confess to a weighting, so it has to be A. Comparisons to other projectors are more to the point, although we're still not being scientific if we can't hang a number on it.


----------



## newfmp3

My 8350 was literally 25" from my head using telescopic ceiling mount


It's not loud, nowhere near it


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20508746
> 
> 
> This brings up a good point. What standard is being used to measure the fan noise in all these projectors? Is there a standard? By something as simple as moving the mic to 5 feet from the PJ, the noise measurement can be 4 dB lower than at 1 meter, which is the distance in most "standards." Then there is the polar pattern. Just like loudspeakers, the fan noise is higher on axis with the exhaust port than off to the side. So do we integrate a 4-pi steradian envelope and include all the nodes in the sound field to average-down the number?
> 
> 
> I assume the SPL reading is A-weighted. Even I would take that shortcut. I also assume anechoic conditions.



Actually, it's usually referred to as being +/- db @ 1 Meter (The db Level being wholly dependent on whatever the Mode is being used. *Econo*Normal*High*High Altitude*)


Now I'm not a person who blindly accepts whatever I read, but I have "averaged out" all the info on all the appropriate PJs I've encountered, and it would be a real D'oh moment if one could not read in that any PJ capable of adequate cooling at low rates of air flow has to be designed right along those lines. That is of course only one part of any determination, but it does exist, and has always been so designated as having no more or less emphasis or consideration in many People's decision making process for Home Theater apps than does Resolution, Contrast, Color Correctness and...gasp....Lumen Output.


Strangely enough, somehow they all tie in together, and even a most excellent SXRD-type PJ with 1080p Res. & 100,000 :1 "Native" CR isn't worth a hoot if it has to have a Cyclonic Fan that sounds as loud as a.....PlayStation 3.










I'm more than comfortably able to stand behind the premise giving the 8350 credit for being the most silent 2000 Lumens1080p PJ , both in Normal & Econo Modes, that exists today.


LED PJs to come hold the promise of virtually silent Projectors. But I'll betcha somebody will have one mounted on his Shoulder.


----------



## CTShooter

Well after getting many faulty 8100's in the past Epson finally replaced it with a new 8350 (I bought my 8100 maybe 2 months before the 8350 came out)...I started getting the green blobs on the screen not to long ago. I called Epson which told me it was a faulty LCD Panel...they were sending me a new one...I get that one, hook it up, and sure enough the same problem...biog green blobs, just in another area of the screen. So now I will be getting yet another projector...this makes about 8 in less then a year.


----------



## David_W

More than likely, the problem with 80% of consumer electronics issues boils down to one word: China


----------



## zaino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcmountainman* /forum/post/19741078
> 
> 
> Well I had a Marantz VP4001 720DLP & Im keeping my 8350 ! Pros are better color Brighter and MUCH MUCH Quieter than your 4805 ( I know because that was my first projector. )The only cons so far are blacks are quite as good and I do have that little bit of red haze in the corner- both are really nit picky points at this price range ( I got an open box for 900.00 ). Im sure you'll be ecstatic over your purchase. For me 1080P is a definite improvement even over 720P .



I have a Marantz vp 4001 now and I was thinking about getting the Epson. But I'm mainly interested in contrast and black levels, and judging from your experience the Epson is not gonna beat it right? Man and to think it's rated 50.000:1 and the Marantz is 5000:1...I hate dynamic iris!


----------



## Fishtank

Not sure why, just figured I would try to even it out a bit...


I got mine in Oct 2010, it currently has 1800 hrs on it and for $1100 it's running like a champ.


I have it shelf mounted about 3 feet above my head, cheap 120" 1.0 gain matte white screen and my throw is at about 12-13'. Complete light control in my room however the walls and ceiling are still white.


I've had an acer ph530 (or something like that) and an optoma hd65 and and a veiwsonic pro8100... this unit is far quieter than the dlp's and it also bests the 8100 in that regard.


I don't really believe their claims that this is a 5000hr bulb, and that eco doesn't help extend it's life...but up to 1800 hrs I can't perceive a noticeable drop in brightness yet, so maybe they will make me a believer yet. I don't use eco.


Blacks are average on the unit, however my conditions are not ideal.


I have 3 very faint green blobs you can see when no image is being projected...It's a known "con" when your choosing an lcd projector over a different technology. If it becomes a problem I'm sure it's not hard to fix it myself, I've had to do it on my optoma which has a sealed light chamber.


I'm not an expert as you can tell but it's the best projector I've owned. I'm only considering those jvc dila projectors as an upgrade, but I think I do believe I will get a few more thousand hours out of this guy before that itch needs to be scratched.


I would not hesitate to recommend this unit to friends and family despite this thread.


----------



## Bill Marsh

About 8 months ago I went from the vp4001 to the 8350 as my bulb died at 1800hrs and I thought better put the money towards something newer and better.


Is it better? Well---yes----better resolution--1080p but blacks are about the same---PQ maybe a bit better---convergence is a tiny bit off but acceptable.


Am I happy and satisfied--it's a good projector but not as good as I had been led to believe.


This is definitely not my last projector---2 years from now I'll upgrade again


It is a light cannon---at 110 inch I've never needed normal bulb mode---I do have a DW screen with 1.2 gain however.


----------



## Mossay

Hi guys, just got my 8350 arrived today and I was slightly concerned about something.


No matter how I adjust the focus ring, the bottom right hand quadrant of the screen is always noticeably more in focus when looking at text. I can never make the other sections of the screen as sharp as the bottom right quadrant can be even if I just concentrate on focusing one quadrant.


(as a side note: the projector was sold as "new" from a reputable website, but the lens seems to have microscratches and a tiny amount of dust was inside the projector on startup. Am I just being paranoid, or could it be possible I was given a projector that someone else returned because they too noticed the focus issue and tried amateur lens cleaning)


I can get it to focus perfectly when the zoom ring is set to maximum. Anything lower and the focus issues crop up. Annoying!


Should I contact Epson? The website I bought from is known for painfully long RMAs, so I'd prefer to deal with the manufacturer directly. Or is corner-to-corner focus an issue for everyone?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mossay* /forum/post/20520959
> 
> 
> Hi guys, just got my 8350 arrived today and I was slightly concerned about something.
> 
> 
> No matter how I adjust the focus ring, the bottom right hand quadrant of the screen is always noticeably more in focus when looking at text. I can never make the other sections of the screen as sharp as the bottom right quadrant can be even if I just concentrate on focusing one quadrant.
> 
> 
> (as a side note: the projector was sold as "new" from a reputable website, but the lens seems to have microscratches and a tiny amount of dust was inside the projector on startup. Am I just being paranoid, or could it be possible I was given a projector that someone else returned because they too noticed the focus issue and tried amateur lens cleaning)
> 
> 
> I can get it to focus perfectly when the zoom ring is set to maximum. Anything lower and the focus issues crop up. Annoying!
> 
> 
> Should I contact Epson? The website I bought from is known for painfully long RMAs, so I'd prefer to deal with the manufacturer directly. Or is corner-to-corner focus an issue for everyone?



Hmmmm I would just try to deal with Epson directly. Do you have any amount of lens shift being applied?


----------



## Mossay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20521219
> 
> 
> Hmmmm I would just try to deal with Epson directly. Do you have any amount of lens shift being applied?



Problem is there with and without lens shift. Epson said to go to the people I bought off of. And so my journey begins!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mossay* /forum/post/20521347
> 
> 
> Problem is there with and without lens shift. Epson said to go to the people I bought off of. And so my journey begins!



Oh well.. Bon voyage! =)


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mossay* /forum/post/20520959
> 
> 
> Hi guys, just got my 8350 arrived today and I was slightly concerned about something.
> 
> 
> No matter how I adjust the focus ring, the bottom right hand quadrant of the screen is always noticeably more in focus when looking at text. I can never make the other sections of the screen as sharp as the bottom right quadrant can be even if I just concentrate on focusing one quadrant.
> 
> 
> (as a side note: the projector was sold as "new" from a reputable website, but the lens seems to have microscratches and a tiny amount of dust was inside the projector on startup. Am I just being paranoid, or could it be possible I was given a projector that someone else returned because they too noticed the focus issue and tried amateur lens cleaning)
> 
> 
> I can get it to focus perfectly when the zoom ring is set to maximum. Anything lower and the focus issues crop up. Annoying!
> 
> 
> Should I contact Epson? The website I bought from is known for painfully long RMAs, so I'd prefer to deal with the manufacturer directly. Or is corner-to-corner focus an issue for everyone?



At max zoom the depth-of-field is maximized, which is why it focuses. The focus should be sharp enough to see the screen door clearly when standing next to the screen. If you can't see that, then you need a painfully long RMA.


----------



## MikeWazowski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20438818
> 
> 
> I can easily tell the people who've never worked in manufacturing before. Extra testing, higher precision more expensive equipment, higher labor costs and time, ALL CONTRIBUTE TO A MORE EXPENSIVE PRODUCT. You guys complain that more should've been done, bla bla bla etc etc etc, well, you're not going to achieve that in a $1200 projector from this company, they'd crumble. Live with it or buy different technology or a higher end model or a different brand that has a different style of issues.



That's just silliness, like the whole 'love it or leave it' mentality. Consumers don't owe companies blind devotion. $1,200 is a lot of money, and here I had a projector that isn't even as good as $400 720 DLP projector I had before.


"What did you expect for $1,200? You should've spent $2,000." cmon that is lame used car salesman talk. The 8350 was just one problem after another for me.


----------



## KlingonScum

I hate to derail the "it's too noisy/no it's not/I've had a dozen bad ones/My first one worked great" theme we've got going here, but...










Rather than try to cut a new custom steel mounting plate for my old DIY projector mount, I got a "VideoSecu" Universal projector mount with a 25.6" extender (the PJ2B model), which showed up yesterday. As expected, it was too small for my 8350 using the standard "4 legged X" configuration. However, it was very easy with no dremeling at all to switch it to a "3 legged Y" configuration; I got home late last night and only had time to get that done before hitting the sack - I hope to have the thing fully mounted and installed tonight. By "very easy" I mean "spent an hour trying to find my stupid metric 8 wrench in my toolbox


Definitely something for people to consider when getting this projector - if you're planning to ceiling mount this thing rather than shelf mount it, the mounting holes are a lot farther apart than other projectors, so it could be tricky getting a "Universal" mount to work with it...


----------



## Mossay

Yerp the screen door effect was only clearly visible at that stage at the bottom right hand quadrant. I've made contact with the online shop anyways so they have a record of me reporting the fault on the day of delivery which should allow me to avail of their dead-on-arrival policy. Since they are now out of stock of the epson Im assuming I'm going to be given the lovely choice of refund or wait 1 month+ for new stock.


On a positive note: the 8350's deblocking/noise removal was great for decrapping my sky digital signal.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeWazowski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 8350 was just one problem after another for me.



325 hours in almost 2 months and nothing but praise for my 8350.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 325 hours in almost 2 months and nothing but praise for my 8350.



Troublemaker! There must be something wrong with it - send it back for a new one!


Seriously, I've been spending a bit of time lately trying to pin down how the image quality is affected by the many permutations of HDMI and signal settings on the 8350 and my BluRay player (Oppo 93). Time consuming, but I'm getting somewhere and will report back.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Troublemaker! There must be something wrong with it - send it back for a new one!
> 
> 
> Seriously, I've been spending a bit of time lately trying to pin down how the image quality is affected by the many permutations of HDMI and signal settings on the 8350 and my BluRay player (Oppo 93). Time consuming, but I'm getting somewhere and will report back.



LOL yea, if I stick my nose against the screen, I can see the SDE. I am RMAing it. LOL


As for the hdmi settings, trust me, I went through the same dilema and thanks to Kilgore and others, I think I finally nailed it down.


Make sure you set the HDMI Range on the PJ to EXPANDED. No ifs and buts about it. It's the only way the pj will allow WTW and BTB information to be seen and allow you to properly calibrate it. HDMI Range set to NORMAL obliterates black levels.


----------



## ravenlocke

Four months into ownership and still loving this projector. 460 hours on bulb, no dust blobs, and convergence is still spot on. I actually use it in dynamic mode most of the time as I prefer the pop and my lighting conditions are less then perfect. Still very happy with the favi 100 inch electric screen as well! No signs of waves and the 1.4 gain works great for me. Avatar looks so good I think my eyes are going to bleed!


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zaino* /forum/post/20514648
> 
> 
> I have a Marantz vp 4001 now and I was thinking about getting the Epson. But I'm mainly interested in contrast and black levels, and judging from your experience the Epson is not gonna beat it right? Man and to think it's rated 50.000:1 and the Marantz is 5000:1...I hate dynamic iris!



I have'nt compared them side by side , but the blacks on the Epson dont look bad at all even without the Iris ( I dont use that ). I have a dedicated theater room though. Walls and ceiling are satin black 3ft out from screen grey carpeting rest of the walls are dark blue and red. So that probably helps with contrast.

I still think the Epson beats out the 4001- colors are much better and it sure is much quieter . I kept my Marantz as a backup . I think they're both GOOD projectors not perfect but the jump to 1080P was worth it to me.


----------



## marroz

I just got my 8350. When watching with auto iris on normal, should the unit have a soft mechanical noise like a computer or bluray player? Is this normal?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marroz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 8350. When watching with auto iris on normal, should the unit have a soft mechanical noise like a computer or bluray player? Is this normal?



Yup, it's normal. It resembles a HDD when it's seeking information.


----------



## CTShooter

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CTShooter* 
Well after getting many faulty 8100's in the past Epson finally replaced it with a new 8350 (I bought my 8100 maybe 2 months before the 8350 came out)...I started getting the green blobs on the screen not to long ago. I called Epson which told me it was a faulty LCD Panel...they were sending me a new one...I get that one, hook it up, and sure enough the same problem...biog green blobs, just in another area of the screen. So now I will be getting yet another projector...this makes about 8 in less then a year.
Well received my third 8350 and now the entire right side of the picture has a green tint and a red line the runs down the entire picture...


I checked multiple inputs and HDMI cables with the same results. This shows me that Epson really does not do anything beyond plugging in a returned projector and just making sure it powers up. If they did any kind of real check before sending out as a refurb they would have seen the green dots on the first refurb and the entire right side green tint on the second.


I called them today and demanded a new 8350 (really how can I, or anyone, trust a refurb after that) which they are going to send me.


I am longing for the day that I can just go downstairs, turn the HT on, and just watch a movie with no worry about what is going to be wrong.


This whole expierence with Epson from the 8100 to the 8350 is just making me think that I paid $1200.00 to rent a projector for the life of the warranty because when the warranty runs out it will break and I will then have to buy a new one...which will not be an Epson.


----------



## JukeBox360

Guess ill be sticking with Optoma. Have over 500 hours on mine. Haven't had a single issue since day 1.


----------



## tommyv2

I'm currently on my 6th 8350 replacement - this one was brand new, hand-checked and signed before being shipped out.


Guess what? Still junk. Same green line down one side of the panel, on the right side this time. I'm calling it in tonight and downgrading to an 8100 (I originally started with a 6100), which they said I could do. I'm willing to give up any positives of the 8350 for the chance of a decent panel on an 8100.


The 8350 has been my worst AV experience ever, and I can't believe this thing is so popular.


----------



## CTShooter

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tommyv2* 
I'm currently on my 6th 8350 replacement - this one was brand new, hand-checked and signed before being shipped out.


Guess what? Still junk. Same green line down one side of the panel, on the right side this time. I'm calling it in tonight and downgrading to an 8100 (I originally started with a 6100), which they said I could do. I'm willing to give up any positives of the 8350 for the chance of a decent panel on an 8100.


The 8350 has been my worst AV experience ever, and I can't believe this thing is so popular.


I started with the 8100 - had many problems - they finally upgraded me to a new 8350. Worked great for 6 months or so then the green dots started. One of the reasons I purchased an Epson was all the positive feedback from this site and other reviews. It seems to me it would be better off spending a little more on quality control instead of sending out multiple projectors to customers. Between the 8100 and 8350 i have probably gone through about 10 projectors in a year.


----------



## viper98912

Mine works great.


----------



## KlingonScum

First, make sure you've got the lens shift centered when you put it up; I was going crazy trying to figure out how I'd mounted it so poorly based on where it was throwing its image before I realize I'd somehow cranked the horizontal shift all the way over.


The thing went up, the picture's beautiful, and as far as I can tell, flawless. Was worried (not much) for a bit because the far left side edge looked like it was out of convergence, but after switching video sources between my DISHPlayer and my HTPC, realized it was th DISHPlayer that's putting out a funky vertical line on the far left - easily rendered moot by sliding the picture over a single pixel so that line winds up on the black screen border and thus invisible. Again, not the projector's fault.


Very very faint fan noise (quieter than my old AX100u) when running, and even that went away when I switch the bulb to Eco-mode. However, if you change the "Picture" setting to "Dynamic" or "Living Room", the fan kicks back in again...and let me tell you, from 14 feet away, the lumens put out by those settings will give you a sunburn; I far preferred "Natural" and "Cinema" modes. Even with the fan going in those modes, it still gets fully subsumed by the surround sound system at normal listening levels and is roughly the same sound level as my old AX100u when in normal viewing modes.


When I switched the Auto Iris on, I started hearing mechanical noises and thought "uh oh"...then realized I was up on a step ladder with my ear about 6 inches away from the PJ; of course I was going to hear it. Sitting in my recliner with my head about 6' away and with the sound on almost too soft, I couldn't hear a thing (it was definitely quieter than the auto-iris on my AX100u). I haven't decided yet whether to keep it on or not as the picture is nice and contrasty even without it on.


Focusing was a wee bit tricky; I wish they'd cranked the ratio on the focusing ring up a little as there's very little play on either side. The lens shift dials are sooooo much nicer than the joystick was on my AX100u; it was very nice having the X "locked" when adjusting the Y and vice versa.


Menus are slow to come up and to cycle through, which is mildly irritating. Just sayin' - perfect is the enemy of good enough, after all, and if I had to find a "con", this one affects me least often. It's counterbalanced by having a LOT of settings - this thing is a tweaker's dream.


Going back to the picture: HDMI 1080i output from my DISHPlayer was really nice; the DISH menus threw me at first because they seemed "soft", almost like they were out of focus, but the projector was dialed in just fine when I switched over to HD channels, so it must have been something I simply didn't notice at 720p on my old projector. Switching over to my HTPC and queuing up some movies, the picture was tack sharp, but I'm probably going to have to re-tweak my FFDShow settings. I may have to finally take the plunge and go Blu-ray as judder on slow panning shots is really annoying (if anybody knows of a good way to eliminate or minimize it with DVD or FFDShow codec settings, I'd appreciate any tips). It's funny - years and years ago when I had a 1024x768 projector, judder wasn't that bad, it started bugging me worse with a 720p projector, and now with my spiffy new 1080p Epson, it's moved up to "irritating".


So, I spent about 2 hours with it last night, watching various things including SD channels over the DISH. Everything looked really good, but I'm going to have to familiarize myself with the different picture modes to see what to switch to for the different types of video. I'm quite happy with it so far.


Side note: anybody get a Squaretrade warranty on one of these? I'm debating it, but wondering - if you get a 3 year Squaretrade warranty, does the 3 years start and run concurrently with the 2 year Epson warranty, or does it start after?


----------



## justinkwaugh

Squaretrade warranties start as soon as you purchase them.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/20536897
> 
> 
> Squaretrade warranties start as soon as you purchase them.



...so, if you get a 3 year Squaretrade warranty, you're really only getting 1 additional year over and above the Epson warranty. Good to know.


----------



## justinkwaugh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20538219
> 
> 
> ...so, if you get a 3 year Squaretrade warranty, you're really only getting 1 additional year over and above the Epson warranty. Good to know.



Yes, and with a company like Epson who gives very good customer support (overnight cross-shipping), I don't know if it would be worth it. I did buy one for my pioneer receiver because it's harder to get serviced.


----------



## WereWolf84




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20536857
> 
> 
> First, make sure you've got the lens shift centered when you put it up; I was going crazy trying to figure out how I'd mounted it so poorly based on where it was throwing its image before I realize I'd somehow cranked the horizontal shift all the way over.
> 
> 
> The thing went up, the picture's beautiful, and as far as I can tell, flawless. Was worried (not much) for a bit because the far left side edge looked like it was out of convergence, but after switching video sources between my DISHPlayer and my HTPC, realized it was th DISHPlayer that's putting out a funky vertical line on the far left - easily rendered moot by sliding the picture over a single pixel so that line winds up on the black screen border and thus invisible. Again, not the projector's fault.
> 
> 
> Very very faint fan noise (quieter than my old AX100u) when running, and even that went away when I switch the bulb to Eco-mode. However, if you change the "Picture" setting to "Dynamic" or "Living Room", the fan kicks back in again...and let me tell you, from 14 feet away, the lumens put out by those settings will give you a sunburn; I far preferred "Natural" and "Cinema" modes. Even with the fan going in those modes, it still gets fully subsumed by the surround sound system at normal listening levels and is roughly the same sound level as my old AX100u when in normal viewing modes.
> 
> 
> When I switched the Auto Iris on, I started hearing mechanical noises and thought "uh oh"...then realized I was up on a step ladder with my ear about 6 inches away from the PJ; of course I was going to hear it. Sitting in my recliner with my head about 6' away and with the sound on almost too soft, I couldn't hear a thing (it was definitely quieter than the auto-iris on my AX100u). I haven't decided yet whether to keep it on or not as the picture is nice and contrasty even without it on.
> 
> 
> Focusing was a wee bit tricky; I wish they'd cranked the ratio on the focusing ring up a little as there's very little play on either side. The lens shift dials are sooooo much nicer than the joystick was on my AX100u; it was very nice having the X "locked" when adjusting the Y and vice versa.
> 
> 
> Menus are slow to come up and to cycle through, which is mildly irritating. Just sayin' - perfect is the enemy of good enough, after all, and if I had to find a "con", this one affects me least often. It's counterbalanced by having a LOT of settings - this thing is a tweaker's dream.
> 
> 
> Going back to the picture: HDMI 1080i output from my DISHPlayer was really nice; the DISH menus threw me at first because they seemed "soft", almost like they were out of focus, but the projector was dialed in just fine when I switched over to HD channels, so it must have been something I simply didn't notice at 720p on my old projector. Switching over to my HTPC and queuing up some movies, the picture was tack sharp, but I'm probably going to have to re-tweak my FFDShow settings. I may have to finally take the plunge and go Blu-ray as judder on slow panning shots is really annoying (if anybody knows of a good way to eliminate or minimize it with DVD or FFDShow codec settings, I'd appreciate any tips). It's funny - years and years ago when I had a 1024x768 projector, judder wasn't that bad, it started bugging me worse with a 720p projector, and now with my spiffy new 1080p Epson, it's moved up to "irritating".
> 
> 
> So, I spent about 2 hours with it last night, watching various things including SD channels over the DISH. Everything looked really good, but I'm going to have to familiarize myself with the different picture modes to see what to switch to for the different types of video. I'm quite happy with it so far.
> 
> 
> Side note: anybody get a Squaretrade warranty on one of these? I'm debating it, but wondering - if you get a 3 year Squaretrade warranty, does the 3 years start and run concurrently with the 2 year Epson warranty, or does it start after?



Perhaps you can take some nice screenshots, it's definitely much convincing


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20532197
> 
> 
> Well received my third 8350 and now the entire right side of the picture has a green tint and a red line the runs down the entire picture...
> 
> 
> I checked multiple inputs and HDMI cables with the same results. This shows me that Epson really does not do anything beyond plugging in a returned projector and just making sure it powers up. If they did any kind of real check before sending out as a refurb they would have seen the green dots on the first refurb and the entire right side green tint on the second.
> 
> 
> I called them today and demanded a new 8350 (really how can I, or anyone, trust a refurb after that) which they are going to send me.
> 
> 
> I am longing for the day that I can just go downstairs, turn the HT on, and just watch a movie with no worry about what is going to be wrong.
> 
> 
> This whole expierence with Epson from the 8100 to the 8350 is just making me think that I paid $1200.00 to rent a projector for the life of the warranty because when the warranty runs out it will break and I will then have to buy a new one...which will not be an Epson.




Got a new 8350 from Epson last night - set it up - no visable problems thus far...no green dots, no green tint. I hope it lasts this time.


----------



## nineset

Sigh... one of my HDMI port was blown out in a lighting storm... Second time this has happened to one of my components last time it was my PS3. Can't figure out what isn't grounded. Hoping that warranty will cover the repair of the hdmi.


----------



## ncarty97

Anyone using the RS-232 port to control the unit through an HTPC? Looking at setting this up and wondering how difficult it is.


----------



## vladd

Not yet but it's in the plans. (I'll be writing my own software to do it.)


----------



## mach250

Joined the group...first projector I've owned so its pretty nice, cant hear a single thing and its about 3 feet above my head just behind my couch right now.


so many settings on this thing to tweak...



what can you do with the rs-232 port?


----------



## cbeck23

Broke down. Thought about waiting until November for the new units, that didn't work.


It is been two weeks & 1 day, and I am in awe. While I have family that have had for years, this is my first projector. Looking at all the posts, there are are many arguments for other units, but I am glad I went with this projector. Now I have to try and sift through this whole forum for settings advice. I was happy except for the brightness (dungeons in Oblivion and in the building shadows in Grand Theft Auto on my xbox 360 were too dark to see detail. Maybe I will try turning the iris on.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250* /forum/post/20554223
> 
> 
> what can you do with the rs-232 port?



The RS232 port allows you to control the projector from a computer or a home automation system.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I've been working with my 8350 on and off for a few months and have some observations and questions.


The price/performance ratio is outstanding. Combined with Epson's customer support in response to issues reported, the 8350 is one of my best purchases in years! In most respects it meets or exceeds expectations.


The only major complaint I have in design/engineering is the lens focusing/ lens shift. At the price point, it's not really a complaint, as it does what it's supposed to do! The focus ratio is just too fast to allow for easy fine-focus. It's extremely sensitive. Lens shift is just a little loose, but a little wiggling around before calling it done can ensure extra stability and reduce undesired drift later.


I noted that my convergence shift would vary over time and temp. I suspect mine may be more a simple mechanical drift in the core and perhaps a bit of chromatic aberration depending on lens focus, lens shift, and overall slop in the lens/core assembly. It seems I can wiggle things around and make it better. Of course, I can also make it worse! There may well be units with more severe misconvergence that are just too far out for correction, but my 8350 seems pretty good.


I have one big issue, and I feel it's valid. With the exception of XV mode, which locks out many other essential adjustments, the primaries are so far out that proper color adjustment is very difficult. Until just recently, I was unable to dial it in. Green saturation and skew is so far off that many controls hit max/min limits before hitting target. Blue... I have some weirdness there, to the point I thought my Eye-1 was defective. I bought a second and got the same data. Blue read very close, but I got very little data shift even when maxed. The numbers said not much change, but the image looked like anything blue was enjoying a lovely smorgasbord at the shroomfest.


I'm sure that an experienced calibrator could scan the data and have a good plan for correction. So I'll call this a learning experience and keep at it! I finally got pretty decent results in cinema mode. I still have a number of primary/secondary parameters fighting each other at the limits of their ranges. I get nervous out there because I've seen before where response increasingly deviates from linear/predictable as the limits are approached.


There are likely some service level offsets which can be adjusted to get the baseline performance close enough for more efficient user-level corrections.


Is there no one with a service manual or access/ parameter info?


By the way, even with the long process of fine-tuning, my image at this point is just stunning. I need to refine some tactics to move a few things closer to spec (at this point it's easy to try a refinement but only move away from target), but my image is just unremarkably natural-looking. And that to me is remarkable!


----------



## mach250

is focus/zoom only available at the lens (manual shows the same)? would rather be able to do this remotely. Looks like the 8700 is the same.


----------



## viper98912

Only available at the lens. I hope this is your research stage and not your after purchase stage


----------



## newfmp3

With the benq at around 1600 here in canada at times, I would be very temped to get it over even a 8700ub yet alone a the much lesser 8350. I have not seen it but read enough that it seems like a decent dlp, and with dlp better then LCD most times, .I'd take a serious look at it for sure.


----------



## dfrankdfrank

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newfmp3* 
With the benq at around 1600 here in canada at times, I would be very temped to get it over even a 8700ub yet alone a the much lesser 8350. I have not seen it but read enough that it seems like a decent dlp, and with dlp better then LCD most times, .I'd take a serious look at it for sure.
I recently had a Benq W6000 in my house to test out. Getting past the fact that I think it may be a more reliable machine than the 8350 (especially since it goes the extra mile for DLP and includes a filter to further prevent dust blobs despite that already being a rare occurence for DLP), I preferred the 8350. The W6000 is as loud as everyone says (mind you, I do sit near the machine, but it seems louder in eco mode than the 8350 is in dynamic normal) and the auto-iris emits a really high-pitched sound every few seconds that was easily audible over loud scenes. It was much more annoying than the grinding iris noise of the 8350. However, the auto iris doesn't impact the W6000's picture much, but it is faster than the 8350's. Overall though, I honestly feel the blacks are very very close between the machines. While the W6000 may technically have the sharper picture (which was the biggest draw for me originally), it is much grainier than the 8350 (and I tested several different films on it with various ranges of grain inherent to the source material). The added grain simply wiped out any benefit of sharpness. The W6000 seemed to handle motion better (although I'm going to post a separate question regarding the 8350 after this response). And while the W6000 is brighter, it wasn't as dramatic of a difference as I expected and the 8350 definitely has a nicer looking dynamic mode. When it comes down to it I thought the 8350 threw a better picture under my conditions (100" screen, 10 ft away). Yet, I'm not trying to make it sound as if the W6000 is bad. It's quite good if you require a larger screen and sit farther away from both the screen (in which the graininess is less noticeable) and projector. Overall, for your average setup I feel the 8350 is the better value.


----------



## newfmp3

I could have swore I posted the Benq comment in another thread with someone comparing the two?!?!?! Odd. Anyways, interesting comments. I do not think many PJ's are going to compete with the 8350 for noise levels anyways.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20560730
> 
> 
> I recently had a Benq W6000 in my house to test out.



The 8350 is the BEST sub $1300 LCD projector for people wanting LCD over DLP, for DLP fans they can look at the Mits hc4000 as a BENQ alternative, it's cheaper and SHOULD produce a bit of a smoother image since it is not quite as sharp as the Benq and the Mits uses the DC3 instead of the w6000's DC2 chip (although I am still trying to get a hold of the w6000 for my shootout).


Was this an uncalibrated out-of-the-box comparison, if yes, then I would say well yup, the Benq is way off in its default modes and has poor color accuracy by default. Also the Benq's IRIS needs calibrated, and depending on your firmware version, it needs updated as well. The Benq can be particularly difficult to calibrate sometimes. Graininess suggests the Benq was not performing optimally in a best mode, sharpness controls may have been turned up too much, gamma curve off, etc... DLP is a little granier than LCD or LCOS sometimes (although I didn't find the Mits hc4000 to be any NOTICEABLY granier than LCD unless you walk way too close to the screen, and for that matter, I found it better more often than not). However, generally speaking DLP with the added sharpness can look granier. Sharpness is usually an advantage, but in some cases it can also be a disadvantage. Most of this DLP NOISE usually exhibits itself in the form of tiny moving dots like mosquito noise, many of us don't see it once we stop looking for it (our eyes adjust pretty quickly to it).


Color inaccuracy can increase the graininess effect as well, as it will highlight parts of the image that are not meant to be highlighted, especially if the GAMMA curve is off or the image is too bright (a brighter image on a DLP often looks grainier). That said, yes the DLP's will be a little grainier if you sit real close and look for the grain. Some people would still prefer sharpness with grain, while others would prefer the smoother look (the LCOS and LCD fans).


Also, Dark Chip 3 over Dark Chip 2 may have fixed the graininess issue for the most part (although I haven't fully verified this test myself, but am still working on it).


I do agree that the 8350 is a much easier projector to deal with than the Benq from those points above. The Mits hc4000 is similar to the 8350 in the sense that it is also much easier to deal with than the Benqs.


Just curious how did you get a hold of the Benq for testing purposes, I have been trying to grab one, and Benq themselves told me they don't have any review units right now even for professional reviewer purposes. The only reason I am asking, is because I really need to get a hold of one somehow for my next shootout.


Thanks...


----------



## s0ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20560730
> 
> 
> I recently had a Benq W6000 in my house to test out. Getting past the fact that I think it may be a more reliable machine than the 8350 (especially since it goes the extra mile for DLP and includes a filter to further prevent dust blobs despite that already being a rare occurence for DLP), I preferred the 8350. The W6000 is as loud as everyone says (mind you, I do sit near the machine, but it seems louder in eco mode than the 8350 is in dynamic normal) and the auto-iris emits a really high-pitched sound every few seconds that was easily audible over loud scenes. It was much more annoying than the grinding iris noise of the 8350. However, the auto iris doesn't impact the W6000's picture much, but it is faster than the 8350's. Overall though, I honestly feel the blacks are very very close between the machines. While the W6000 may technically have the sharper picture (which was the biggest draw for me originally), it is much grainier than the 8350 (and I tested several different films on it with various ranges of grain inherent to the source material). The added grain simply wiped out any benefit of sharpness. The W6000 seemed to handle motion better (although I'm going to post a separate question regarding the 8350 after this response). And while the W6000 is brighter, it wasn't as dramatic of a difference as I expected and the 8350 definitely has a nicer looking dynamic mode. When it comes down to it I thought the 8350 threw a better picture under my conditions (100" screen, 10 ft away). Yet, I'm not trying to make it sound as if the W6000 is bad. It's quite good if you require a larger screen and sit farther away from both the screen (in which the graininess is less noticeable) and projector. Overall, for your average setup I feel the 8350 is the better value.



I had the W6000 (firmware 1.01) before i got a TW3200 and i completely agree with this post. Everything is spot on as what i've noticed so far.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s0ad* /forum/post/20562447
> 
> 
> I had the W6000 (firmware 1.01) before i got a TW3200 and i completely agree with this post. Everything is spot on as what i've noticed so far.



wow, I am suprised at you guys findings, but did you calibrate, seriously it does matter. We have the 8350 which is one of the better OTB projectors vs. the Benq which is one of the worst.


I'm not saying I disagree with your findings at all, as I have never seen the Benq, I am just a little surprised. That is why I really want to see the Benq w6000, it seems to be the most MYSTERIOUS projectors with so many varying opinions.


This is exactly why I have left the BENQ out of my cheat sheet for now, it's too undetermined...


----------



## s0ad

I had my W6000 calibrated by a friend who works at a hifi store. He is no expert by no means, but it certainly improved the picture quality. I have a feeling that the W6000 was to bright for my rooms conditions. I've seen a calibrated one and it made a huge difference, but the blacklevels werent that great tbh. Sharpness and POP were better than TW3200 but not by a huge margin.


The TW3200 was out of the box with few adjustments like brightness and changing color from 6500k to 7500 and turning gamma from 2.2 to 2.3.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s0ad* /forum/post/20562613
> 
> 
> I had my W6000 calibrated by a friend who works at a hifi store. He is no expert by no means, but it certainly improved the picture quality. I have that feeling that the W6000 was to bright for my rooms conditions. I've seen a calibrated one and it made a huge difference, but the blacklevels werent that great tbh. Sharpness and POP where better than TW3200 but not by a huge margin.



That sounds fair, the 8350 does have higher native contrast.

If I can get a hold of the Benq (geeze it's hard), I will try to run it through its paces and see what I myself find. I tend to get obsessive though, so some may see it differently than I do


----------



## s0ad

The iris drove me nuts on the W6000. The high pitched sound every 30 second, made me sell the projector. The TW3200 also has a noisey iris, but its far from as distracting as the BenQ's.


I'm looking forward for a Mits HC4000 or the Sanyo z4000, hope they will do better although i know the mits doesnt have a iris


----------



## coderguy

Most people will have to stay with an Epson 8350 or 8700ub due to brightness over the Sanyo, unless you are using a smallish HP screen.


Ahh, they are both good projectors, but the Sanyo's brightness is a downer.

The DLP will win out in POP overall. Note the Sanyo's IRIS is great, and besides that the Sanyo is like the 8700ub in the sense that you don't really need the IRIS most of the time, so you can turn it off.


The 8700ub and the Sanyo beat the Mits in contrast even if you turn their IRIS's off. The Mits wins in TV and bright scene POP like for News, Sports, Scenery, etc...

Most people will go for the 8700ub over the Sanyo for very valid reasons, but I think it can go either way if you don't want a large screen.


Both the 8700ub and Sanyo z4000 make REALLY nice movie projectors in light controlled rooms, but the Sanyo needs more light control and the HP screen a bit more as well.


----------



## KlingonScum

Still very happy with it. A few minor annoyances:
Powering on with the remote is flaky. In a weird reversal of normality, my wife has no trouble getting it to come on, whereas I'll find myself standing there pointing the remote at the projector directly holding the button down and wondering what the heck is going on. Wife thinks it works better for her because she hits the "light up the remote" button first before holding down the power button. Weird, especially since I have no such trouble shutting it off.
Ok, the auto-iris IS noisy. I'm sitting in my usual chair with my right ear displaced about 4 feet both horizontally and vertically from the projector, and at normal volume levels, it's noticeable and distracting. I've shut it off - but the picture's still beautiful and contrasty without it so I have to shrug here. I'm also running it for reference in Eco-mode, and usually in "Natural" mode, in a fully light controlled environment on a gray screen.
This is about as nitpicky as it gets - it does take it a bit of time to come up to full brightness when you turn it on, maybe a minute or two. Again - *shrug*.


I need to spend a little time calibrating it; part of the reason I'm not using the much brighter "Dynamic" or "Living Room" modes is because the image appears slightly "posterized" in those modes; up until now I've been jacking around with my HTPC and FFDShow settings and haven't had time to try Art's calibration numbers on it, but hopefully this week I'll get to it. Oh - and if it's relevant, for reasons I won't go into, I'm having to feed it from my HTPC with an old DB15 VGA connection instead of digitally, which may or may not be part of the "posterizing", who knows. I had something similar with my old Panasonic that I was able to correct by changing the settings so I don't think it's a projector issue - and my HDMI feed from my DISHPlayer doesn't appear to have the same issue, so...


----------



## coderguy

MOST of you guys should just give in and all grab an eye-one meter and calibrate that way if you can budget for it, only about $150. Most of you guys are plenty technical to do it with the calibration for dummies guide (hey that's how I learned too, and I've come a fair ways, that is truely a great guide).


Some of Art's settings will just be way off for many of you due to screen and viewing conditions. I've yet to find that his settings match my setup ever, but I am on an HP screen.


----------



## Joesyah

I've seen both and installed both, I still prefer the w6000 in IQ. I don't find the 8350 really any quieter as whole. It can be just as noisy IMHO.


The biggest difference for me is in motion. Colors start to blend a little on the Epson when the going gets tough. Both are easier to setup than most, thanks to the lens shift. The W6000 isn't as forgiving in poor source material as the 8350. This may give more of an impression of grain.


That being said, I'm installing a 8350 in a friend's dedicated theater this weekend.

I made the decision to go with this unit more for its flexibility than over all image quality.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/20562757
> 
> 
> MOST of you guys should just give in and all grab an eye-one meter and calibrate that way if you can budget for it, only about $150. Most of you guys are plenty technical to do it with the calibration for dummies guide (hey that's how I learned too, and I've come a fair ways, that is truely a great guide).
> 
> 
> Some of Art's settings will just be way off for many of you due to screen and viewing conditions. I've yet to find that his settings match my setup ever, but I am on an HP screen.



I'm on an HP screen as well and arts settings didn't do it for me.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MOST of you guys should just give in and all grab an eye-one meter and calibrate that way if you can budget for it, only about $150. Most of you guys are plenty technical to do it with the calibration for dummies guide (hey that's how I learned too, and I've come a fair ways, that is truely a great guide).
> 
> 
> Some of Art's settings will just be way off for many of you due to screen and viewing conditions. I've yet to find that his settings match my setup ever, but I am on an HP screen.



I'm using my old HP manual screen, and since the 8350 is ceiling mounted the seating area is so far from 'optimal' it actually works out quite well.


Would you share your calibration numbers for your HP screen, I'd love to try them. Thanks,


John F


----------



## jfried

Coderguy, would you share your calibration numbers that work for your HP?


HP for me too, and Art's numbers sure are far from optimal with this screen. I'm losing much (most) gain as the 8350 is ceiling mounted, and about 5 ft. above eye level, throw distance of 14.5 ft.


I'd love to try your numbers. Thanks,


John F


----------



## coderguy

I do not currently own an Epson 8350, I was speaking in general terms. I have tried Art's settings for many projectors that I have used just for the heck of it, but I always calibrate with a meter in reality.


I'm sure someone else in here can share their settings, but I always recommend you calibrate it yourself eventually or even hire someone if you had to.


----------



## dsteren

All,


Unlike others, so far I've had a great experience with my 8350. Convergence is sharp and none of the other issues with the lines or color tint in the image.


Now, after about 1300 hrs, I have a weird issue where the image randomly changes brightness, almost like a surge or repression of the power going to the bulb. This is within any of the given color modes. I use Cinema and Dynamic depending on time of day and it happens in both. I run the projector in Eco for both of these modes. It did not do this before and there was no change in the projector.


Basically, it will get brighter then ever so slightly dimmer, then back to brighter without any other perceivable change or issues. I turned off the auto iris, which did not make a difference. I turned the fan up to high altitude, no change. I thought perhaps it was getting too hot.


Anyone else experience this? At 1300+ hrs and knowing the stories about the Epson bulbs, I'm wondering if this is the bulb exhibiting its last legs prior to a blow out. I previously had an Epson Cinemapro 800 and the bulb would noticeably dim before calling it a life.


Any thoughts?


Dave


----------



## vladd

That is what the Dymanic setting does. It adjusts contrast dynamically. If it's happening in Cinema mode, it sounds like you have dynamic contrast enabled on the source device.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20573308
> 
> 
> That is what the Dymanic setting does. It adjusts contrast dynamically. If it's happening in Cinema mode, it sounds like you have dynamic contrast enabled on the source device.



Not necessarily. At 1300 hours, I'd assume he's already familiar with the brightness changes in Dynamic mode. What he's describing sounds a lot like what my Panasonic bulb acted like when it was getting ready to go (my first one I was able to get replaced under warranty, fortunately). One way to tell would be to turn off the auto-iris and see if you still get the random momentary dimming or not.


----------



## dsteren

Yes... very familiar with how it has worked up to this point. This is definitely a flaw... I turned auto-iris off with no impact. I'm just trying to understand if its merely a bulb replacement or if I will need to have a warranty replacement for the unit, which I REALLY do not want to do as mine has been flawless to this point.


It just seems bogus that Epson advertises the long bulb life and it really isn't even as long as what I would get from my ProCinema 800. And yes, I know that typically a replacement should be had free within warranty, but its annoying none the less.


D


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20573474
> 
> 
> At 1300 hours, I'd assume he's already familiar with the brightness changes in Dynamic mode.



You have a point there. That's what I get for skim reading again.


----------



## JJxiv1215

Sheesh, I just read the last 12 pages of this thread in full detail.


I'm finally seeking to go FP in my next house since I'm moving out in 2 months, and I'd be selling my Pioneer 5020 plasma to buy a projector and screen.


I thought the 8350 was my best bet. Now I'm not 100% like I was before! Convergence issues? Bad bulbs? Jesus - I'd feel like I'm gambling to get one of the lucky 8350s that have no issues. The 5020 never caused me a single headache in 30 months. Now I'm all tense.


----------



## Santi8

The odds are that you will be fine, but there are some issues out there to keep an eye on if you decide to go with the 8350... This thread points out more negative than positive, but there's still a reason why the 8350 is selling as hot as it is!


----------



## helcik

Yeah, forums are for technical problems mostly. Compare this to the number of sold units and you will understand why this thread is so active. Anyway with that level of customer care Epson is a good choice even if you find some flaw.


----------



## dilipb

I apologize in advance.

I spent 20 minutes reading this thread and did not even reach page 20 of these 150+ pages.

So although someone might have already answered this question, can you guys still help me out?



I recently finished my basement.

Installed a Epson 8350, ceiling mounted it.

I am using a wall as the screen.

Painted it with Behr ultra pure white 1750 as per recommendation from " tiddler "


Projector is about 20 feet away.

I am getting an image which is about 150" diagonal, which is what I want.


When I play Avataar through a PS3, routed through Onkyo 9300THX, the projector projects very good image, but Blacks are not black enough. Blacks are too white. or shall i say it image appears white washed.


It feels like the brightness is too high; of course I get to see the details in the image, but what are the best settings recommended for this projector?


Is the paint choice wrong? Should I have selected a MATTE finish paint? I don't want to spend 500+ and buy a screen. Should I spend 2-300 and paint it using a paint like goo or something else?


I have NO ambient light in the room. I have recessed lights which are completely controllable. I darken the room completely anyways while watching anything.


Note : ceiling is white, 2 side walls are behr harvest green, floor carpet is brownish color.


Also I have NO Black border installed yet. I intend to by some velvet roll and paste it on the wall (something like this )


Even if someone can recommend some good optimal settings AND any tricks to make blacks appear more black, that will help.


----------



## lewke

Paint your ceiling a dark color.....


Purchase a calibration disk....


----------



## dilipb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lewke* /forum/post/20577153
> 
> 
> Paint your ceiling a dark color.....
> 
> 
> Purchase a calibration disk....



Any specific recommendation on the disk?


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/20575335
> 
> 
> Sheesh, I just read the last 12 pages of this thread in full detail.
> 
> 
> I'm finally seeking to go FP in my next house since I'm moving out in 2 months, and I'd be selling my Pioneer 5020 plasma to buy a projector and screen.
> 
> 
> I thought the 8350 was my best bet. Now I'm not 100% like I was before! Convergence issues? Bad bulbs? Jesus - I'd feel like I'm gambling to get one of the lucky 8350s that have no issues. The 5020 never caused me a single headache in 30 months. Now I'm all tense.



I call that feeling ABA: "Amazon Buyer's Anxiety" - it's when you curl up in a fetal position rocking back and forth chewing on your fingernails because you read all the 1 star reviews on Amazon on something you'd already decided you wanted to buy.










For what it's worth, I just got my 8350 and I'm fine. I had read this thread through and still decided to go for it; part of my decision making was the fact that Epson's got a great 2 year warranty and pretty good customer service.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lewke* /forum/post/20577153
> 
> 
> Paint your ceiling a dark color.....
> 
> 
> Purchase a calibration disk....



Seconded on what Lewke said. Put a border around your screen too as you said you were going to do, that will also be a big help. If you painted the entire wall - not just the portion receiving the image - bright white, that's part of your problem right there; you might want to paint the non-image portion of the wall black (ideal) or another dark color.


A 150" diagonal is pretty big, which means you're not getting as many lumens per square inch, which means the difference between a pixel getting light and not getting light isn't that big; most people's theater setups for projectors in this class are around 92" to 110" (mine is about 110" in diagonal, that's 8ft x 4.5ft).


What mode are you in? If you're in Dynamic or Living Room mode, you might want to try one of the other modes; they put out less light, but that can enhance blacks.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sheesh, I just read the last 12 pages of this thread in full detail.
> 
> 
> I'm finally seeking to go FP in my next house since I'm moving out in 2 months, and I'd be selling my Pioneer 5020 plasma to buy a projector and screen.
> 
> 
> I thought the 8350 was my best bet. Now I'm not 100% like I was before! Convergence issues? Bad bulbs? Jesus - I'd feel like I'm gambling to get one of the lucky 8350s that have no issues. The 5020 never caused me a single headache in 30 months. Now I'm all tense.



8350 or not, I would not sell the pio


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20578610
> 
> 
> 8350 or not, I would not sell the pio



Couldn't agree more. UNLESS, he sells it to me off course


----------



## JJxiv1215




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20578610
> 
> 
> 8350 or not, I would not sell the pio



That's my debate. But I was completely set on going FP when I moved into my new house - what with car payments and the house, the only way I'm doing it is by selling the Kuro. I'm SUPER-hesitant, and still not 100% sure if I'm going to do it. To go from a 1st-tier TV to a mid-level projector isn't something I honestly want to do.


Considering how impossible it would be to reacquire one. But we'll see. My personal deadline is by the time the Star Wars blu-rays come out to have a FP setup. I move into my new home in early August.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/20578638
> 
> 
> Couldn't agree more. UNLESS, he sells it to me off course



Is that an honest statement? For the right price, we could make a deal. Mind, freight shipping is $160...


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That's my debate. But I was completely set on going FP when I moved into my new house - what with car payments and the house, the only way I'm doing it is by selling the Kuro. I'm SUPER-hesitant, and still not 100% sure if I'm going to do it. To go from a 1st-tier TV to a mid-level projector isn't something I honestly want to do.
> 
> 
> Considering how impossible it would be to reacquire one. But we'll see. My personal deadline is by the time the Star Wars blu-rays come out to have a FP setup. I move into my new home in early August.
> 
> 
> Is that an honest statement? For the right price, we could make a deal. Mind, freight shipping is $160...



If you are used to looking at a pioneer plasma, you won't be happy with the 8350. I wasn't, panny plasma here. Blacks, sharpness or lack thereof, motion issues etc. Before you sell that tv, go look at one somewhere


----------



## JJxiv1215




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20578886
> 
> 
> If you are used to looking at a pioneer plasma, you won't be happy with the 8350. I wasn't, panny plasma here. Blacks, sharpness or lack thereof, motion issues etc. Before you sell that tv, go look at one somewhere



Good call.


----------



## eat meat

is epson no longer backing up there 2 year bulb Guarantee?


> Quote:
> I've had this problem 3 times now. The first and second time their customer service was great. And on the second time they said it was a hardware issue and replaced my projector. But, it just happened again!! And now they are denying what is written above! They want me to purchase a new lamp, but I'd be a fool to after everything I know. Is there a link or any other Epson documentIon confirming this article?


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...e&entry_id=354 


2-4 bulbs is way beyond chance....


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Good call.



I am guessing the Kuro is a main tv too? The killer with that is, you turn the plasma on and leave it on all day if you want, or turn it on and off 50 times a day - Bottom line is no worries. With any pj, your lucky if you hit 2000 hrs these days on one bulb, and you really need to take care of the thing because unlike tv's they do not last for years and years. I love front Pj, but it comes at a cost.


Some here say size is everything and there really is no words to describe the feeling of having that gigantic wall sized screen in your house for the first time. But at some point, you will start to notice the image flaws of any pj and screen. You will start to compare your pj to your Pioneer that you once had.


What I am saying is that personally, I would never give up a really good tv like a pioneer for a pj. Especially a Pioneer considering you can not buy it again


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20579644
> 
> 
> What I am saying is that personally, I would never give up a really good tv like a pioneer for a pj. Especially a Pioneer considering you can not buy it again



I will never buy another television for as long as I live.


...unless one day you can buy one in a spray can and spray it on the wall.


----------



## coderguy

I think owning both a TV and a projector is fine, or even just a projector. I would find it harder though to ONLY have a TV and to own no projector at all, that would be boring!


A plasma does have some unique attributes, I was surprised how good a cheap LG plasma looks, I mean that's a pretty good picture for a very low price when you compare to a projector. However, there are projectors that function well as TV's even for cost, but most of them are a bit expensive to run 24/7, like a JVC for instance might get expensive if you left it on all the time.


A cheap LCD or DLP projector can make a good TV replacement as long as you are shooting for immersion and not PQ in absolute terms, and some of the lamps on some projectors do actually last a very long time.


It just depends on personal preferences. Quite honestly I'd rather be riding on the Titanic than just watching it in 3d (err, ok well maybe not!).

One thing is for sure, home theater reduces outdoor accidents!


----------



## JJxiv1215

You guys changed my mind, lol. I think I'll go with an Epson 8350 AND keep my Kuro. I'll just make my own screen to save the money. Now, to make a system that allows me to use both at the same time on the same wall...THAT'LL be the challenge, considering I hate pull down screens, I think they look tacky.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/20582599
> 
> 
> You guys changed my mind, lol. I think I'll go with an Epson 8350 AND keep my Kuro. I'll just make my own screen to save the money. Now, to make a system that allows me to use both at the same time on the same wall...THAT'LL be the challenge, considering I hate pull down screens, I think they look tacky.



Now your talking!


----------



## dilipb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20577425
> 
> 
> Seconded on what Lewke said. Put a border around your screen too as you said you were going to do, that will also be a big help. If you painted the entire wall - not just the portion receiving the image - bright white, that's part of your problem right there; you might want to paint the non-image portion of the wall black (ideal) or another dark color.
> 
> 
> A 150" diagonal is pretty big, which means you're not getting as many lumens per square inch, which means the difference between a pixel getting light and not getting light isn't that big; most people's theater setups for projectors in this class are around 92" to 110" (mine is about 110" in diagonal, that's 8ft x 4.5ft).
> 
> 
> What mode are you in? If you're in Dynamic or Living Room mode, you might want to try one of the other modes; they put out less light, but that can enhance blacks.



Yes I am going to put that velvet border, or paint the non-screen area black.

That will help visually.

I like Dynamic in every device, colors just pop out you know.

I tried other modes, yes, they do enhance the black levels.


Thanks for the good advice.


----------



## hrcapers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsteren* /forum/post/20573556
> 
> 
> Yes... very familiar with how it has worked up to this point. This is definitely a flaw... I turned auto-iris off with no impact. I'm just trying to understand if its merely a bulb replacement or if I will need to have a warranty replacement for the unit, which I REALLY do not want to do as mine has been flawless to this point.
> 
> 
> It just seems bogus that Epson advertises the long bulb life and it really isn't even as long as what I would get from my ProCinema 800. And yes, I know that typically a replacement should be had free within warranty, but its annoying none the less.
> 
> 
> D



Dsteren, like you my 8350 has been flawless, except I think I experieneced the exact problem you're describing. I run in eco mode all the time. The picture would get slightly brighter then go back to normal. I simply switched from eco to normal mode then back to eco. The problem went away. I suspect the 8350 was somehow switching itself from eco to normal.


----------



## PioManiac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JJxiv1215* /forum/post/20582599
> 
> 
> You guys changed my mind, lol. I think I'll go with an Epson 8350 AND keep my Kuro. I'll just make my own screen to save the money. Now, to make a system that allows me to use both at the same time on the same wall...THAT'LL be the challenge, considering I hate pull down screens, I think they look tacky.




I have both, a 50" Kuro and a 2.5 y/o Epson 1080UB that just turned 2900 hours on its original bulb,

the spare freebie lamp just went in the other night (after fighting the old one out that had a stripped screw #$%*!)

...even though I could have squeezed another 100-200 hours out of it if I pushed it I bet.


I absolutely Love my Pio Plasma's, dont get me wrong, I actually own Two of the them,

...but since I put up my PJ in the mancave and installed a remote controlled powered drop down screen...I've probably logged less than a 100 hours on that TV per year.


Which is probably a Good thing because the Kuro will last Much longer, and they dont make them anymore










Here's my dual set up in my unfinished basement mancave, and PQ comparisons ...

(check out my theater build thread for more, link in my sig)

Yes my Room is still unfinished , I just wrapped it in Dark Velvet, painted the concrete floor and threw down some area rugs




























1.3 gain 120" 16:9 screen was $250 (shipped) on ebay and is still flawless 2.5+ years later.


PQ is very close on both, but 400% larger is Trumping the slight PQ advantage of the Kuro.


Pio at 50" (Eagles Farewell Tour on HD DVD)










Epson at 10 Feet Diagonal make you feel like You're AT the concert.










My 50" Kuro










120" screen / Epson PJ










50" Kuro










I leave the blue light in the lower left corner of the Kuro shots when I crop them so it's easier to tell the two apart.


120" PJ










...the PJ shots are even more impressive when you consider they are 9'-0" wide vs the Kuro screen at about 40" wide










The 50" plasma from 12' away doesn't seem to have as much impact when I don't crop the pic's to the same size.


















(use the blue light in the lower right corner from my PS3 as a reference point)


the 120" powered drop down screen, shot from the same camera position without cropping the image.



















I did a Pio vs PJ comparison with an SD DVD too, from Star Wars, General Grievous,

both up-scaled from 480i on my PS3 to 1080p


Pio at 50"










PJ


----------



## PioManiac

Okay, one more thread Hi-Jack and I'll back off...


but this is the one I posted almost 3 years ago trying to convince other Pioneer Die-Hards that bigger really is Better











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PioManiac* /forum/post/15287834
> 
> 
> 
> Last night I had my Pioneer Kuro turned on, nothing else, room nearly pitch black, no signal at all to the TV (Black screen) and it was glowing grey.
> 
> I guess its been a while since I've done that, but now that my room is REALLY dark...
> 
> the Kuro was actually looking kind of bright to me for the first time. Either my eyes were playing tricks on me,
> 
> or my projected black was just as good or better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I dropped the big 120" down and fired up the 1080UB,
> 
> same thing...completely black screen with no signal...
> 
> 
> To my amazement it was as Dark, dare I say even slightly *Darker* than the Kuro black screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the blacks start to drop off a little when you start projecting any content on the screen with whites or other colors,
> 
> but as you can see by the the last Earth shot....the ANSI contrast still looks pretty darn good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to call this series of shots from the PS3 visualizer
> 
> 
> the *"How Big is Your World?"* photo's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *How Big is "Your World"?*..and shouldn't it at least be larger than You?


----------



## Manos777

Great shots. Proves what I have been saying all along. This projector in a perfectly dark, light controlled environment is capable of producing contrast and black levels that rival the gold standard set by Pioneer Plasmas. I don't own a Kuro, but have the generation before it, the 7th generation. (A friend of mine has the Kuro, and I cannot tell the difference between it and my PQ; must be nominal). I have watched movies on both, and the darkest the plasma gets is very dark grey. The Epson 8350 on a 1.1 gain Elite screen gets nearly there, but not enough for it to be either noticeable, or a deal breaker, particularly when you factor in the high resolution at a screen size that is nearly double my 50 inch plasma. I'm projecting onto an 80 inch screen and sitting about 8 feet away. Feels like a real movie theater.


----------



## Manos777

And I agree: NEVER sell the Pioneer Plasma. It is the best plasma ever made and they don't make them anymore, so it is essentially priceless. I have my Epson PJ set up in one room, and the Pioneer in another room. We have kids, so it helps to be able to let the kids watch something in one room, while we watch a movie in the other. Plus, somethings look better on the Pioneer, like DVDs. DVD's resolution's flaws show up more when blown up to 80". Plus, for watching news and sit coms, the bigger screen seems like overkill.


----------



## PioManiac

Yup, I sit about 9' (eyes to screen) from my 120" screen









sadly the Kuro only sees news, weather and the odd sitcom...or when It's only going to be on for an hour


No use firing up the PJ (bulb strikes count as 3 hours) unless it's going to be on for 3 hours +

That's how I got nearly 3k hours out of my first lamp.











If you're a Black level Junkie like I am, and most Kuro owners...

100% light control and dark velvet/fabric walls and floors will get you there.


My Black levels are insane!

especially for a 3 year old Espon model 1080UB!!!




















Sting standing on stage and we're front row in powered recliners!

The lights from my Yamaha AVR look like part of the stage equipment


----------



## Benito Joaquin

nice shots. also shows what you can do with a controlled room!


Benito


----------



## JJxiv1215

Yeah, I have a controlled room as well, and it's one of my needs for the new house I'm shopping for.


PioManiac, you've sold me. I'm merging both systems. I've always hated pull down screens, but I'll see what I can do.


This is what I'm running currently:











But who knows how it'll be arranged in my new place.


----------



## PioManiac

Nice Room JJxiv1215!


It's easy to build a dropped valance that covers the screen housing when its retracted if you're mounting it in a more refined looking room.










...heck if I ever get around to finishing my ceiling I could even move it right up into the joist space and leave a 1" slot for it to drop through.


When you go over the top with a light controlled room it pays huge dividends on PQ (example below)

darker is always better, but if possible Dark Fabric is even less reflective than dark painted drywall.


... and now that I see you know understand the importance of controlling sound reflections too,

you can appreciate that my entire room with stapled fabric to the studs on my insulated walls....

no drywall, has no reflection points and requires no bass traps for my 7.2 system twin 12" Velodyne subs.


The other thing amazing about having a total Bat Cave...


I can even turn on a couple strategically placed floor lamps without washing out the image on screen.

The lamps are to the sides, and slightly behind the screen and there's nothing "light" in the rest of the room

for light to reflect off and bounce back towards the screen washing out the image and deteriorating the contrast.











Sorry guys, I get a little carried away and I'm still a relative n00b when it comes to Projectors

but I learned a lot real fast! and like to help those who are where I was just 3 short years ago.


----------



## veekay

Mine has started doing this with only 150 hours on the bulb - this was of course a replacement right before my 2 years was up. It reminds me of what my old Infocus DLP projector would do - constant changes in brightness.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsteren* /forum/post/20573128
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> Unlike others, so far I've had a great experience with my 8350. Convergence is sharp and none of the other issues with the lines or color tint in the image.
> 
> 
> Now, after about 1300 hrs, I have a weird issue where the image randomly changes brightness, almost like a surge or repression of the power going to the bulb. This is within any of the given color modes. I use Cinema and Dynamic depending on time of day and it happens in both. I run the projector in Eco for both of these modes. It did not do this before and there was no change in the projector.
> 
> 
> Basically, it will get brighter then ever so slightly dimmer, then back to brighter without any other perceivable change or issues. I turned off the auto iris, which did not make a difference. I turned the fan up to high altitude, no change. I thought perhaps it was getting too hot.
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this? At 1300+ hrs and knowing the stories about the Epson bulbs, I'm wondering if this is the bulb exhibiting its last legs prior to a blow out. I previously had an Epson Cinemapro 800 and the bulb would noticeably dim before calling it a life.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Dave


----------



## jpbledsoe

The 8350 powers up very slowly. I believe it does so to extend the bulb life. It probably ramps up the voltage on the bulb to slowly warm it up, avoiding damaging inrush current.


We have our 8350 mounted on the ceiling and it's hard to see the small blue LED (on the top side of the 8350) light up and we have to wait at least 15 seconds to see "Epson" displayed on the screen as the 8350 boots up.


I believe we have a solution for this annoyance.


We're in the process of rigging an LED at the "Trigger Out" signal so we can see when the projector turns on. Normally, this signal is used to lower a screen.


Epson Suppport says the Trigger Out signal is 12 V and is capable of providing 200 mA (max). So, it is plenty adequate for a small LED (super bright LEDs should only need 20 mA at most). Epson Support wasn't as helpful on the polarity of the 12V driver.


Trigger can be brought out with a 3.5 mm (1/8") mono plug. The best I can tell from Epson's instructions is the tip of the 3.5 mm plug will be +12V with respect to the other contact on the plug; so that's the polarity we'll choose for our first attempt at making this work.


We'll try a red LED and hope it doesn't cause a problem with the IR signal from the remote. Green would be better, as it's much further from the IR wavelengths.


You could run a long wire from the Trigger signal and mount the LED next to your screen. Since we shoot our remote at the rear of the projector, we will create a very small plug-in assembly.


Note also that you have to enable the Trigger function via the remote. See the owner's manual for information on enabling the Trigger function. I don't have it with me now; it's at church and my soft copy is on my thumb drive, which I don't have right at this moment.


I'll let you know how it works. I hope we can try it in the next week or so. If you have any questions on choosing a resistor to solder in series with your indicator LED, I'll be glad to help. Let everyone know if you try this and it works. I'll do the same.


Jeff


----------



## jpbledsoe

I need to increase the range of our 8350 remote. I've looked at several hardwired options but we'd like to be able to point at the projector from inside or outside of our sound control booth.


So, I'd like to design a repeater/booster that could be mounted to the front of the remote or I might mount both the remote and the booster in a carrier.


Does anyone know the wavelength of the 8350 remote's IR emitter? Epson support wasn't very helpful when they "guessed" that its 850 nm.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 8350 powers up very slowly. I believe it does so to extend the bulb life. It probably ramps up the voltage on the bulb to slowly warm it up, avoiding damaging inrush current.
> 
> 
> We have our 8350 mounted on the ceiling and it's hard to see the small blue LED (on the top side of the 8350) light up and we have to wait at least 15 seconds to see "Epson" displayed on the screen as the 8350 boots up.
> 
> 
> I believe we have a solution for this annoyance.
> 
> 
> We're in the process of rigging an LED at the "Trigger Out" signal so we can see when the projector turns on. Normally, this signal is used to lower a screen.
> 
> 
> Epson Suppport says the Trigger Out signal is 12 V and is capable of providing 200 mA (max). So, it is plenty adequate for a small LED (super bright LEDs should only need 20 mA at most). Epson Support wasn't as helpful on the polarity of the 12V driver.
> 
> 
> Trigger can be brought out with a 3.5 mm (1/8") mono plug. The best I can tell from Epson's instructions is the tip of the 3.5 mm plug will be +12V with respect to the other contact on the plug; so that's the polarity we'll choose for our first attempt at making this work.
> 
> 
> We'll try a red LED and hope it doesn't cause a problem with the IR signal from the remote. Green would be better, as it's much further from the IR wavelengths.
> 
> 
> You could run a long wire from the Trigger signal and mount the LED next to your screen. Since we shoot our remote at the rear of the projector, we will create a very small plug-in assembly.
> 
> 
> Note also that you have to enable the Trigger function via the remote. See the owner's manual for information on enabling the Trigger function. I don't have it with me now; it's at church and my soft copy is on my thumb drive, which I don't have right at this moment.
> 
> 
> I'll let you know how it works. I hope we can try it in the next week or so. If you have any questions on choosing a resistor to solder in series with your indicator LED, I'll be glad to help. Let everyone know if you try this and it works. I'll do the same.
> 
> 
> Jeff



Forward voltage (FV) of the typical LED is 3.3 to 3.8 v. You'll instantly fry the LED unless you use a resistor in series with the trigger. Google LED resistor to find a calculator to figure out a suitable resistor.


----------



## Quick Hands

Pio great shots I've seen them before and think they are some of the best on this sight to show the immersion difference between a tv and a projector. Your pics and setup are one of many that made me go front projection. Light control and reflection is definetly the key to getting the most out of your projector the difference I saw after painting my walls and ceiling dark blue and black with a dark carpet were worth all the work and cost. Watching the Bruins finally hoist the cup on a 130 inch screen with friends and family priceless!!!!!


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/20584944
> 
> 
> I need to increase the range of our 8350 remote.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just get a universal remote with RF, or maybe buy an IR repeater like the X-10.


The cool thing about IR repeaters is they work for ALMOST any remote.

I personally use the X-10 powermid IR repeater, and it works great. It comes with 2 IR units (IR remote transmitter and then a receiver for equipment), one unit you can place anywhere you have a wall-outlet, and the other unit goes in front of your equipment. You can also buy mutliple remote transmitters for different rooms if you wish.


I've only found maybe 1-2 remotes they have trouble with, and it's usually has something to do with non-standard remotes that send odd IR signals or repetetive signals, but the x-10 did handle this better than every other IR repeater I tried (which most only worked with about half my remotes at best, and x-10 works with 90% of them).


It converts the IR signal to RF from a remote location and sends it to the base with an antenna, then it recreates the IR signal and sends it to the device.


The only disadvantage is that unlike a PURE RF transmitter such as a REMOTE with built-in RF, is that you do have to place the repeaters so that you can point your remote at it, and place the IR receiver side so it can relay it to your device.


Again, not sure on the true range or going through walls but mine came with pretty big antennas on the devices so it must have some decent range, and the reason I went with an IR to RF conversion type repeater is because it allows me to use ANY remote from the remote location, instead of just a single master remote.


Although a single MASTER RF UNIVERSAL REMOTE would also work fine for most with the limitation being that you can't use other remotes since they aren't RF by default.

The X-10 is really LOW cost and can make all your remotes work in different rooms, that's why I like it.


----------



## jpbledsoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20562731
> 
> 
> Still very happy with it. A few minor annoyances:
> Powering on with the remote is flaky. In a weird reversal of normality, my wife has no trouble getting it to come on, whereas I'll find myself standing there pointing the remote at the projector directly holding the button down and wondering what the heck is going on. Wife thinks it works better for her because she hits the "light up the remote" button first before holding down the power button. Weird, especially since I have no such trouble shutting it off.
> Ok, the auto-iris IS noisy. I'm sitting in my usual chair with my right ear displaced about 4 feet both horizontally and vertically from the projector, and at normal volume levels, it's noticeable and distracting. I've shut it off - but the picture's still beautiful and contrasty without it so I have to shrug here. I'm also running it for reference in Eco-mode, and usually in "Natural" mode, in a fully light controlled environment on a gray screen.
> This is about as nitpicky as it gets - it does take it a bit of time to come up to full brightness when you turn it on, maybe a minute or two. Again - *shrug*.
> 
> 
> I need to spend a little time calibrating it; part of the reason I'm not using the much brighter "Dynamic" or "Living Room" modes is because the image appears slightly "posterized" in those modes; up until now I've been jacking around with my HTPC and FFDShow settings and haven't had time to try Art's calibration numbers on it, but hopefully this week I'll get to it. Oh - and if it's relevant, for reasons I won't go into, I'm having to feed it from my HTPC with an old DB15 VGA connection instead of digitally, which may or may not be part of the "posterizing", who knows. I had something similar with my old Panasonic that I was able to correct by changing the settings so I don't think it's a projector issue - and my HDMI feed from my DISHPlayer doesn't appear to have the same issue, so...



Concerning the annoyingly slow power-up sequence of the 8350, here's a copy of a reply I mistakenly made to another post:


The 8350 powers up very slowly. I believe it does so to extend the bulb life. It probably ramps up the voltage on the bulb to slowly warm it up, avoiding damaging inrush current.


We have our 8350 mounted on the ceiling and it's hard to see the small blue LED (on the top side of the 8350) light up and we have to wait at least 15 seconds to see "Epson" displayed on the screen as the 8350 boots up.


I believe we have a solution for this annoyance.


We're in the process of rigging an LED at the "Trigger Out" signal so we can see when the projector turns on. Normally, this signal is used to lower a screen.


Epson Suppport says the Trigger Out signal is 12 V and is capable of providing 200 mA (max). So, it is plenty adequate for a small LED (super bright LEDs should only need 20 mA at most). Epson Support wasn't as helpful on the polarity of the 12V driver.


Trigger can be brought out with a 3.5 mm (1/8") mono plug. The best I can tell from Epson's instructions is the tip of the 3.5 mm plug will be +12V with respect to the other contact on the plug; so that's the polarity we'll choose for our first attempt at making this work.


We'll try a red LED and hope it doesn't cause a problem with the IR signal from the remote. Green would be better, as it's much further from the IR wavelengths.


You could run a long wire from the Trigger signal and mount the LED next to your screen. Since we shoot our remote at the rear of the projector, we will create a very small plug-in assembly.


Note also that you have to enable the Trigger function via the remote. See the owner's manual for information on enabling the Trigger function. I don't have it with me now; it's at church and my soft copy is on my thumb drive, which I don't have right at this moment.


I'll let you know how it works. I hope we can try it in the next week or so. If you have any questions on choosing a resistor to solder in series with your indicator LED, I'll be glad to help. Let everyone know if you try this and it works. I'll do the same.


Jeff


----------



## viper98912

You guys have some really nice man caves, but unfortunately I don't have that luxury. So I needed to make my home theater in my "standard" living room. Here's some pix, I basically took some Ikea bookcases, and a whole bunch of wood, bookcases, doors, etc, and cut them down (specifically so all the laminates would match) and made a custom frame to hold my Samsung LED tv (40", don't need bigger when you have a projector!) for daily viewing, 100" motorized Elite Screens screen auto-sync'd to the Epson 8350. Basically the on/off button on the Epson remote controls those two.


Samsung Bluray 5.1 system runs off the same tv remote (so I have three functions in one), and I also added some recessed lighting. I'm pretty happy with the way everything came out after a lot of designing, calculating, cutting, modifying, etc. I definitely wanted the screen to hide away and be completely motorized, where I wouldn't even need to hit a button or touch it.


I also took a video (from 18 ft back) in the daytime next to the door to show that the 8350 definitely pushes some lumens. You can see my camera adjusting the dimness because it was catching too much concentrated light (although the sunlight didn't make it dim down). So far I'm pretty happy for the price I paid for everything. Enjoy the pix.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You guys have some really nice man caves, but unfortunately I don't have that luxury. So I needed to make my home theater in my "standard" living room. Here's some pix, I basically took some Ikea bookcases, and a whole bunch of wood, bookcases, doors, etc, and cut them down (specifically so all the laminates would match) and made a custom frame to hold my Samsung LED tv (40", don't need bigger when you have a projector!) for daily viewing, 100" motorized Elite Screens screen auto-sync'd to the Epson 8350. Basically the on/off button on the Epson remote controls those two.
> 
> 
> Samsung Bluray 5.1 system runs off the same tv remote (so I have three functions in one), and I also added some recessed lighting. I'm pretty happy with the way everything came out after a lot of designing, calculating, cutting, modifying, etc. I definitely wanted the screen to hide away and be completely motorized, where I wouldn't even need to hit a button or touch it.
> 
> 
> I also took a video (from 18 ft back) in the daytime next to the door to show that the 8350 definitely pushes some lumens. You can see my camera adjusting the dimness because it was catching too much concentrated light (although the sunlight didn't make it dim down). So far I'm pretty happy for the price I paid for everything. Enjoy the pix.



I love this, so cool. Nice job. I always like seeing projects like this where someone thought outside the norm.


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You guys have some really nice man caves, but unfortunately I don't have that luxury. So I needed to make my home theater in my "standard" living room. Here's some pix, I basically took some Ikea bookcases, and a whole bunch of wood, bookcases, doors, etc, and cut them down (specifically so all the laminates would match) and made a custom frame to hold my Samsung LED tv (40", don't need bigger when you have a projector!) for daily viewing, 100" motorized Elite Screens screen auto-sync'd to the Epson 8350. Basically the on/off button on the Epson remote controls those two.
> 
> 
> Samsung Bluray 5.1 system runs off the same tv remote (so I have three functions in one), and I also added some recessed lighting. I'm pretty happy with the way everything came out after a lot of designing, calculating, cutting, modifying, etc. I definitely wanted the screen to hide away and be completely motorized, where I wouldn't even need to hit a button or touch it.
> 
> 
> I also took a video (from 18 ft back) in the daytime next to the door to show that the 8350 definitely pushes some lumens. You can see my camera adjusting the dimness because it was catching too much concentrated light (although the sunlight didn't make it dim down). So far I'm pretty happy for the price I paid for everything. Enjoy the pix.



That just looks sexy.


----------



## dfrankdfrank

Has anyone noticed any significant judder issues (when the camera appears to shutter during a pan)? When I had the unit for a few days in my house a few weeks ago I remember seeing a really nasty and unnatural stutter during Up when the "camera" pans across some mountains. I think 2:2 was on along with 24 output from my PS3. But I don't know. I wish I had tested this more to see if it was more common. This seems to be the one thing sticking in my mind holding me back from pulling the trigger. I do understand movies have some natural judder, but like I said this seemed to be a

really noticeable stutter. I know the 8700 handles this better with 4:4 and frame interpolation , but FI gives me a headache and I prefer not to spend the extra $900 if I don't have to.


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20591277
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed any significant judder issues (when the camera appears to shutter during a pan)? When I had the unit for a few days in my house a few weeks ago I remember seeing a really nasty and unnatural stutter during Up when the "camera" pans across some mountains. I think 2:2 was on along with 24 output from my PS3. But I don't know. I wish I had tested this more to see if it was more common. This seems to be the one thing sticking in my mind holding me back from pulling the trigger. I do understand movies have some natural judder, but like I said this seemed to be a
> 
> really noticeable stutter. I know the 8700 handles this better with 4:4 and frame interpolation , but FI gives me a headache and I prefer not to spend the extra $900 if I don't have to.



I wish I could offer an answer but I only have an opinion.


When using my ps3 with any projector I find it's display settings actually make a huge difference. The first time I ran a Speers and Munsil calibration bluray from my ps3 it was terrible. The intro video's were juddery and the white and blacks were destroyed... severly crushed at both end's. I pretty much couldn't use the calibration disc until I changed the ps3 settings display settings.


The reason I don't have an answer is because this was nearly a year ago and I have no idea what I changed. However both were fixed by settings from the ps3.


Also someone mentioned the repeated dim/bright flickering in eco mode. I actually did notice that once in ECO mode, never in normal mode. I usually run the projector in normal mode, maybe I should try eco mode for a while and see if it's still present.


As for the remote I actually usually point mine at the screen, the signal needs to travel about 26' to bounce off the screen and hit the PJ. It starts every time about 3 seconds after a single quick press. Maybe something is faulty on the remote or PJ if your having that much trouble...


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could offer an answer but I only have an opinion.
> 
> 
> When using my ps3 with any projector I find it's display settings actually make a huge difference. The first time I ran a Speers and Munsil calibration bluray from my ps3 it was terrible. The intro video's were juddery and the white and blacks were destroyed... severly crushed at both end's. I pretty much couldn't use the calibration disc until I changed the ps3 settings display settings.
> 
> 
> The reason I don't have an answer is because this was nearly a year ago and I have no idea what I changed. However both were fixed by settings from the ps3.
> 
> 
> Also someone mentioned the repeated dim/bright flickering in eco mode. I actually did notice that once in ECO mode, never in normal mode. I usually run the projector in normal mode, maybe I should try eco mode for a while and see if it's still present.
> 
> 
> As for the remote I actually usually point mine at the screen, the signal needs to travel about 26' to bounce off the screen and hit the PJ. It starts every time about 3 seconds after a single quick press. Maybe something is faulty on the remote or PJ if your having that much trouble...



What ps3 settings did you change?


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dilipb* /forum/post/20582835
> 
> 
> Yes I am going to put that velvet border, or paint the non-screen area black.
> 
> That will help visually.
> 
> I like Dynamic in every device, colors just pop out you know.
> 
> I tried other modes, yes, they do enhance the black levels.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the good advice.



I tailor my viewing mode to the material I'm watching. If I'm watching a Pixar movie or a Football game, or if I've got the lights up (say, eating dinner in front of the "set"), then yes - I go Dynamic mode. But if I'm watching something like "Sherlock Holmes" or any of the dozens of modern movies shot with a blue filter (sigh), I'll switch to Cinema mode to really bring out the detail in the blacks.


----------



## dilipb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20594255
> 
> 
> I tailor my viewing mode to the material I'm watching. If I'm watching a Pixar movie or a Football game, or if I've got the lights up (say, eating dinner in front of the "set"), then yes - I go Dynamic mode. But if I'm watching something like "Sherlock Holmes" or any of the dozens of modern movies shot with a blue filter (sigh), I'll switch to Cinema mode to really bring out the detail in the blacks.



Thanks!


----------



## Santi8

500 hours on my lamp and I'm experiencing brightness shifting and it's annoying the piss out of me. It happens with my cable and xbox. Anybody run into this and or know if it's a PJ issue or something else?


----------



## ravenlocke

Thats usually a sign the bulb is about to go...


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20541470
> 
> 
> Got a new 8350 from Epson last night - set it up - no visable problems thus far...no green dots, no green tint. I hope it lasts this time.



Spoke to soon....yesterday when I booted up the projector I got an error message saying 'Problem with Auto Iris unplug and contact Epson' - then the 2 warning lights on the PJ were blinking red. This is just another problem with Epson.


It seems to me they have no quality control when it comes to refurbs (actually sending me one that has rusted screw holes and others with green blots in the picture) or new units, and the quality of the parts they use are sub-par at best.


At this point im pissed that I went with Epson - this will be about the 6th new PJ I have gotten (among the many refurbs) in about a years time.


At this point im stuck with it...no way I can get my money back from Best Buy so im stuck with calling, gettting yet a new one, setting it up, calibrating it just to assume sometime shortly another problem will arise.


I didnt think I could be this unlucky but it appears I am...I dont want to be a customer from hell, I just want a PJ that I can feel comfident will work when I want to use it.


I will say this - the people at Epson have always been good and nice and did what they could to resolve issues. My problem now is just the overall quality of the item they produce...


*** EDIT - Anyone have any corporate email address for Epson? It is time for me to escalate my problems with someone other then the Support Group.


----------



## ERuiz

:-( I guess I can also be added to the list of people having issues with their Epson 8350.


As soon as my pj hit the 500 hours mark, I started having the following issues:


- lower left of the screen is out of focus while the rest of the screen is in focus

- bottom of the screen has a large, half moon shaped, reddish/pink tint. It is clearly visible on light/white backgrounds

- green circular blob in upper right of the screen. Clearly visible on black/dark backgrounds

- intermittent brightness fluctuations even though auto iris is OFF. Noticed it mostly on Cinema mode. It resembles something like a flickering or auto iris.


Besides the issues listed above, the pj works wonderfully. It's odd that it all started as soon as it hit the 500 hours mark.


I will continue to use it as-is but I now know that I will be joining the Epson customer service queue very soon. :-(


----------



## bishopt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20606970
> 
> 
> :-( I guess I can also be added to the list of people having issues with their Epson 8350.
> 
> 
> snip....
> 
> 
> Besides the issues listed above, the pj works wonderfully. It's odd that it all started as soon as it hit the 500 hours mark.
> 
> 
> I will continue to use it as-is but I now know that I will be joining the Epson customer service queue very soon. :-(



Bummer, but I thought the "besides listed comments" was kind of funny....I think anyone with that many issues would consider it time to do something...hopefully you will have better luck with your next unit...


----------



## JukeBox360

This thread makes me pretty happy I've avoided this projector lol


----------



## bishopt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JukeBox360* /forum/post/20607103
> 
> 
> This thread makes me pretty happy I've avoided this projector lol



+1 but I wasn't going to post that...LOL


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bishopt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bummer, but I thought the "besides listed comments" was kind of funny....I think anyone with that many issues would consider it time to do something...hopefully you will have better luck with your next unit...



The reason I say I still enjoy it is because the above issues are clearly visible under certain conditions. If I was one that stared at a blank screen all day, then yes, the green blob sure would be distracting. So would the reddish tint if all I did was watch a white image all day. Under nornal viewing conditions, the issues above are nit distracting at all but they are there any how. Once the issues affect normal viewing, then I will go ahead and start an RMA process with Epson.


----------



## JukeBox360

Either way. Guess ill stick with an HD20. That or projectors all together lol. Idk.


----------



## helcik




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20606424
> 
> 
> Spoke to soon....yesterday when I booted up the projector I got an error message saying 'Problem with Auto Iris unplug and contact Epson' - then the 2 warning lights on the PJ were blinking red. This is just another problem with Epson.



do not bother with this, I had both 8350 and 8700UB and both did it once or twice. Just turn off the PJ, unplug from the power cord and it will boot as usual ;-)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20606970
> 
> 
> - lower left of the screen is out of focus while the rest of the screen is in focus



I had it too with 8700UB and I thought it was less sharp than 8350, just make sure your PJ is accurately perpendicular to the screen, use your meter to ensure. Then you will be able to focus correctly the whole screen. The depth of field is so small when zooming, so even milimeters count.


*Come on, guys, do not try to scare everybody that these projectors are piece of crap, IMHO you are just too nervous ;-)*


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcik* /forum/post/20607304
> 
> 
> I had it too with 8700UB and I thought it was less sharp than 8350, just make sure your PJ is accurately perpendicular to the screen, use your meter to ensure. Then you will be able to focus correctly the whole screen. The depth of field is so small when zooming, so even milimeters count.



Ok, I will triple check and make sure the pj is completely perpendicular to the screen. Thanks.


----------



## veekay

Are there any tips for doing this? I have to get up on a ladder every time and refocus since one corner is always out of focus. Everything seems leveled, but I just have no way to actually tell.


I'm thinking about going back to shelf mounting instead of ceiling so I don't have to worry about the mount being off.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20607362
> 
> 
> Ok, I will triple check and make sure the pj is completely perpendicular to the screen. Thanks.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20606424
> 
> 
> Spoke to soon....yesterday when I booted up the projector I got an error message saying 'Problem with Auto Iris unplug and contact Epson' - then the 2 warning lights on the PJ were blinking red. This is just another problem with Epson.
> 
> 
> It seems to me they have no quality control when it comes to refurbs (actually sending me one that has rusted screw holes and others with green blots in the picture) or new units, and the quality of the parts they use are sub-par at best.
> 
> 
> At this point im pissed that I went with Epson - this will be about the 6th new PJ I have gotten (among the many refurbs) in about a years time.
> 
> 
> At this point im stuck with it...no way I can get my money back from Best Buy so im stuck with calling, gettting yet a new one, setting it up, calibrating it just to assume sometime shortly another problem will arise.
> 
> 
> I didnt think I could be this unlucky but it appears I am...I dont want to be a customer from hell, I just want a PJ that I can feel comfident will work when I want to use it.
> 
> 
> I will say this - the people at Epson have always been good and nice and did what they could to resolve issues. My problem now is just the overall quality of the item they produce...
> 
> 
> *** EDIT - Anyone have any corporate email address for Epson? It is time for me to escalate my problems with someone other then the Support Group.



I've had that error about 6 times in the last several months.

I just shutdown the projector and unlug the power cord for about 1 minute.

Then wait about 7 minutes to allow the lamp to cool and power back on and the error is cleared.


----------



## helcik

there is no need to wait, the PJ will cool down the lamp automatically. make sure the PJ is powered down gracefully, switch the main switch OFF/ON and power it up. That's it.


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/20607867
> 
> 
> I've had that error about 6 times in the last several months.
> 
> I just shutdown the projector and unlug the power cord for about 1 minute.
> 
> Then wait about 7 minutes to allow the lamp to cool and power back on and the error is cleared.



I turned it on in the AM and had the problem, did it again after work and also later on and each time the PJ was turned on I got that code and the blinking red lights. At first I thought it was a glitch but 3 power off/ons with same result tell me something is wrong...either way Epson is now sending me another brand new projector.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I turned it on in the AM and had the problem, did it again after work and also later on and each time the PJ was turned on I got that code and the blinking red lights. At first I thought it was a glitch but 3 power off/ons with same result tell me something is wrong...either way Epson is now sending me another brand new projector.



Do they actually send you a brand new one or is it a refurb?


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20608169
> 
> 
> Do they actually send you a brand new one or is it a refurb?



Yes - I believe thier policy is that return within 30 days get a new one, outside 30 days get a refurb...but I was first sent a refurb that had rust on it which I wouldnt accept and others that had the green blobs on the screen.


It seems to me they do not even check and/or fix returned items before shipping them as refurbs so I will no longer take them...I have a very lengthy case with them so they send me new ones...


I did accept a refurb after having about 5 months luck with my 8350 (replaced the 8100 that was broken) but the two refurbs they sent both had the same problem as the one i sent back (green blobs) so now we are now back to new units.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes - I believe thier policy is that return within 30 days get a new one, outside 30 days get a refurb...but I was first sent a refurb that had rust on it which I wouldnt accept and others that had the green blobs on the screen.
> 
> 
> It seems to me they do not even check and/or fix returned items before shipping them as refurbs so I will no longer take them...I have a very lengthy case with them so they send me new ones...
> 
> 
> I did accept a refurb after having about 5 months luck with my 8350 (replaced the 8100 that was broken) but the two refurbs they sent both had the same problem as the one i sent back (green blobs) so now we are now back to new units.



Oh ok, thanks for the heads up.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CTShooter* 
I turned it on in the AM and had the problem, did it again after work and also later on and each time the PJ was turned on I got that code and the blinking red lights. At first I thought it was a glitch but 3 power off/ons with same result tell me something is wrong...either way Epson is now sending me another brand new projector.
Did you unplug the power?

I believe just turning it off/on retains the error in memory.


----------



## Krbass

Hey guys, I am new to the projector scene. I was upset with the picture in a local store of the 9350 compared to the mits hc4000, but after going back and given a chance to play with settings I fell it love with it and think it looks as good and blacks are way better than the mits. I am not going to be purchasing a PJ till my basement is completely finished which is probably going to take at least a couple more months. Would it be wise at that point to just wait and see what epson might be coming out with to replace the 8350 or just buy it?


----------



## Mikes2cents

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Krbass* 
Would it be wise at that point to just wait and see what epson might be coming out with to replace the 8350 or just buy it?
Of course it makes sense to wait if you will not use the unit immediately. The warranty will start right away and sitting in a box does nothing for you. This goes for all electronics. Generally they do not get more expensive so I say wait until you are ready to use the unit.


BTW, the HC4000 beats out the 8350 in the 1080P shootout on projector central. Their words, not mine.


----------



## Santi8

So I have 2 small green blobs that I've had since about 300 hours, I'm at 500 hours now with brightness fluctuation, probably meaning the bulb is reaching it's end. Would this be a good time to contact epson and swap? Also, I know people have been getting free bulbs due to lack of life within warranty... I assume 500 hours would qualify for this?


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20611071
> 
> 
> So I have 2 small green blobs that I've had since about 300 hours, I'm at 500 hours now with brightness fluctuation, probably meaning the bulb is reaching it's end. Would this be a good time to contact epson and swap? Also, I know people have been getting free bulbs due to lack of life within warranty... I assume 500 hours would qualify for this?




When I called Epson to complain about the green blobs they told me that it was due to a faulty panel - I would suggest getting a new one from them.


----------



## Vipeout

Hi guys. As always I heavily base my buying decision on your verdict.


I have read a lot good about the Epson. Also, people here say there is no input lag. Great!


However, the views on motion blur / judder seem to differ. And that's where my biggest issue with the unit is: It has no Frame Interpolation.


I'm not a big Fan of it for movies, but on my TV (100hz mode), I do like to switch to "low" for animation movies for the added smoothness. For Games I even prefer it on middle (or in my Bravia's case "smooth") as moving objects appear so much clearer and ghosting is reduced quite alot.


I know I need it on a LCD TV as I clearly see the difference on my XBR8. Wouldn't I be missing it in the projector? Is there a big difference to models that do have FI?

Hearing only a few people here complain about it when playing games, I wonder is it because it's just not an issue with the unit (which I can hardly believe due to it being LCD) or do people just not care about it?

I Never owned a projector so I do not know if this is something to worry about with this kind of device (It certainly is on lcd TVs!))


----------



## Slev08

Just received my Epson 8350 last night. It took me about 30 minutes to mount it (ceiling mount w/ RPA-U bracket) and it fired right up. I am still waiting for my Center Stage XD screen material so I have taped a roll of plotter paper on the back-side of my 112" frame. This is my first PJ and I cannot believe how sweeeeet the image is...and that is with PAPER for a screen!!! The unit fired right up and it took me about 90seconds to postion the image in my screen and focus, can't say enough about the ease of setup. Once I install the Center Stage XD (should be late next week, it's on back-order with SeymourAV) I plan on performing calibration (using Blue Ray disc). I watched about 3 hours of HD television last night and enjoyed every second of it. Fired it up this morning for the kids and was again extremely happy with the image...ON PAPER, WITH NO CALIBRATION.


I will post some pics once I get the screen complete. I'm using a Denon AVR-1611 received with standard in-wall front L&R speakers, standard in-ceiling rear in-ceiling speakers and a pretty good center channel.


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vipeout* /forum/post/20611214
> 
> 
> Hi guys. As always I heavily base my buying decision on your verdict.
> 
> 
> I have read a lot good about the Epson. Also, people here say there is no input lag. Great!
> 
> 
> However, the views on motion blur / judder seem to differ. And that's where my biggest issue with the unit is: It has no Frame Interpolation.
> 
> 
> I'm not a big Fan of it for movies, but on my TV (100hz mode), I do like to switch to "low" for animation movies for the added smoothness. For Games I even prefer it on middle (or in my Bravia's case "smooth") as moving objects appear so much clearer and ghosting is reduced quite alot.
> 
> 
> I know I need it on a LCD TV as I clearly see the difference on my XBR8. Wouldn't I be missing it in the projector? Is there a big difference to models that do have FI?
> 
> Hearing only a few people here complain about it when playing games, I wonder is it because it's just not an issue with the unit (which I can hardly believe due to it being LCD) or do people just not care about it?
> 
> I Never owned a projector so I do not know if this is something to worry about with this kind of device (It certainly is on lcd TVs!))



I play both Xbox and PS3 (Mostly Call of Duty Games) and am VERY pleased with how this projector handles the games...well when the Projector is working.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vipeout* /forum/post/20611214
> 
> 
> Hi guys. As always I heavily base my buying decision on your verdict.
> 
> 
> I have read a lot good about the Epson. Also, people here say there is no input lag. Great!
> 
> 
> However, the views on motion blur / judder seem to differ. And that's where my biggest issue with the unit is: It has no Frame Interpolation.
> 
> 
> I'm not a big Fan of it for movies, but on my TV (100hz mode), I do like to switch to "low" for animation movies for the added smoothness. For Games I even prefer it on middle (or in my Bravia's case "smooth") as moving objects appear so much clearer and ghosting is reduced quite alot.
> 
> 
> I know I need it on a LCD TV as I clearly see the difference on my XBR8. Wouldn't I be missing it in the projector? Is there a big difference to models that do have FI?
> 
> Hearing only a few people here complain about it when playing games, I wonder is it because it's just not an issue with the unit (which I can hardly believe due to it being LCD) or do people just not care about it?
> 
> I Never owned a projector so I do not know if this is something to worry about with this kind of device (It certainly is on lcd TVs!))





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CTShooter* /forum/post/20611682
> 
> 
> I play both Xbox and PS3 (Mostly Call of Duty Games) and am VERY pleased with how this projector handles the games...well when the Projector is working.



Yup, I concur. I am always playing Battlefield Bad Company 2 and I detect NO lag whatsoever.


----------



## wfay

Got the 8350 last month and have been enjoying it against a blank wall in our basement. But this was never its permanent home, just a place to demo it for a while. I already have the ceiling mount but need to actually run the wires and cut some holes etc so I just haven't done it yet.


The area where we plan to project onto has ~160in in between a pair of built-in wall speakers and the ceiling is 104in from the floor. This would fit a 15ft (180in) screen with a few inches to spare so of course we are considering going for it.










The projector will be ceiling mounted about 18ft back and we will be sitting right under it. We already set this up with a bookshelf and are happy with the size. We could also go with 12ft (~150in) but we are a little concerned that it will actually be too small, having sat there for a couple hours watching movies tonight alternating between the larger and smaller sizes.


Curious if anyone else has gone for the 180in size and what you think about it? Of course the 15ft electric screens are a ton more money than the 12ft ones. I am also a little concerned about sagging and other things that crop up in such large screens over time.


Thanks!


----------



## Retro-Marus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> with brightness fluctuation, probably meaning the bulb is reaching it's end.



Are you running the Epson in Eco lamp-mode? If yes, then switch off Eco mode and use it in full lamp mode for a few hours. This should fix the fluctuations.


Cheers,

Markus


----------



## viper98912




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wfay* /forum/post/20614905
> 
> 
> Got the 8350 last month and have been enjoying it against a blank wall in our basement. But this was never its permanent home, just a place to demo it for a while. I already have the ceiling mount but need to actually run the wires and cut some holes etc so I just haven't done it yet.
> 
> 
> The area where we plan to project onto has ~160in in between a pair of built-in wall speakers and the ceiling is 104in from the floor. This would fit a 15ft (180in) screen with a few inches to spare so of course we are considering going for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The projector will be ceiling mounted about 18ft back and we will be sitting right under it. We already set this up with a bookshelf and are happy with the size. We could also go with 12ft (~150in) but we are a little concerned that it will actually be too small, having sat there for a couple hours watching movies tonight alternating between the larger and smaller sizes.
> 
> 
> Curious if anyone else has gone for the 180in size and what you think about it? Of course the 15ft electric screens are a ton more money than the 12ft ones. I am also a little concerned about sagging and other things that crop up in such large screens over time.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Jeez that's a big size







I say forget any roll ups, just paint the wall or buy a fixed screen and mount it to the wall


----------



## jmd5505

I hope it's Okay to post this, but ProjectorPeople has just dropped their price to $1099 and you get a free gift if you use coupon code OUTSIDE.


----------



## wfay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20615106
> 
> 
> Jeez that's a big size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say forget any roll ups, just paint the wall or buy a fixed screen and mount it to the wall



Well we have a nice built-in entertainment center on that wall already with a Pioneer KURO 50in plasma. The 8350 will be for when we want to watch on an even larger screen.










So I can't really cover up that area permanently. I may even do a hidden ceiling drop since the joists are lined up the right way for it (and in the right spot).


I like the fixed screen approach it just won't work here.


----------



## newfmp3

IMHO 180 is too big for the 8350. You have to take into account bulb age and dimming over time


----------



## ravenlocke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20616106
> 
> 
> IMHO 180 is too big for the 8350. You have to take in account bulb age and dimming over time



Dynamic mode in a light controlled enviroment would be fine for that size.


----------



## JukeBox360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenlocke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic mode in a light controlled enviroment would be fine for that size.



It would also look like crap.


----------



## Santi8

Yeah, 180 is getting a bit greedy.

I called epson in regards to my dust blobs and fluctuating brightness, the guy was very open about their dust issues and pre-mature bulb failures. He was also very honest about letting me know he had no pull in the quality control, but he assured me that they will keep sending units until I'm satisfied.

Although this unit has ha some issues, I am very impressed with their customer service.


----------



## greddy09sc

After months of research and reading the forums. I have decided to buy the 8350. Now, I need to decide on where?


If I can get it for the same price, should I get it from Amazon or Projector People? Or can you suggest of a better place?


----------



## JukeBox360

Highly recommend amazon.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20627364
> 
> 
> After months of research and reading the forums. I have decided to buy the 8350. Now, I need to decide on where?
> 
> 
> If I can get it for the same price, should I get it from Amazon or Projector People? Or can you suggest of a better place?



I bought mine last week from B&H Photo. Great price and 3-day shipping was only $5. They also accept returns.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After months of research and reading the forums. I have decided to buy the 8350. Now, I need to decide on where?
> 
> 
> If I can get it for the same price, should I get it from Amazon or Projector People? Or can you suggest of a better place?



I recommend Projector Place.


----------



## greddy09sc

Amazon didn't price match.

B&H has $5 shipping. Yea, it's only $5 but still five dollars.










I called PP and they sound very knowledgeable. They will help me decide on the screen after I play around with the projector. So I decided to order through them. Thanks for the suggestion guys.


----------



## jmd5505

From what I saw Projector People had the best price and free shipping. I ordered a projector from them several years ago and had no issues. I have never tried to return anything to them, so that's someting to think about since Amazon is pretty liberal with returns. In any case, I ordered an 8350 with them yesterday and it shipped this morning.


----------



## Rgb

Quote:

Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* 
Amazon didn't price match.

B&H has $5 shipping. Yea, it's only $5 but still five dollars.










I called PP and they sound very knowledgeable. They will help me decide on the screen after I play around with the projector. So I decided to order through them. Thanks for the suggestion guys.
Any issues with VisualApex (A forum sponsor?)


----------



## Benito Joaquin

Have you guys tried A/V Science.....those guys seem ok.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Benito Joaquin* /forum/post/20629358
> 
> 
> Have you guys tried A/V Science.....those guys seem ok.



Are you guys a forum sponsor?







What is your return policy and who pays shipping? Amazon has it going on there. Also, I assume you are an authorized retailer for everything you sell right? If not, there could be warranty issues. Pioneer is a big PITA where this is concerned. Actually, they can really suck all around for support because they seem holyer than thou when you tell them there is a problem. That is only if you are lucky enough to get in touch with someone. Now we are off track.


----------



## docrings

Just picked up one today from HG Greggs for about $120 less than BB, to replace a SD projector that came with our house purchase. With a tight budget, just couldn't justify the extra money for a Panny 4000 or Epson 8700. All that extra cash buys a LOT of Blu-ray discs!

Took an hour to cut and drill an adapter to fit the old, smaller universal ceiling mount ($8 for a sheet of 3/8" furniture grade plywood, which you can't even see after installed) and had it set up quickly after that.

I had first light tonight...high WAF for picture and colors, played through a Sony Blu-ray, and a 10 meter HDMI cable for only $30 at Fry's Electronics. (otherwise would have bought online for even cheaper if time wasn't of the essence.). Unknown brand 110" screen on the wall, projected from 15' in normal power mode, with plenty of lumens.

The wife was skeptical of the white case, but gave it no mention after it was up...the HT is so dark anyway, you don't even notice it. It looked fine mounted up there.

I liked the individual remote buttons for each separate video input, and a handy one-touch "pattern" button dedicated for alignment, zoom and focus. Nice. I needed to switch to composite video a few times to calibrate the new HT speakers through the receiver's on-screen menu, so it was easy with the Epson remote.

Very little fan noise only barely noticed without the movie playing (more from the A/C vent than projector) and never heard the auto iris, ensuring it was activated in the menu.

Very happy, and saved $825 vs. The Panny 4000 I had been researching for a year. I'm sure the 4000 is a smidge better, but again, bang for the buck goes to the 8350, and I'm VERY satisfied with the picture...Never had a video monitor look so good out of the box, and have yet to calibrate it...


Doc


----------



## Santi8

If you have an hh Greg I would go there. They price match anything and will beat it. I think I got them down to 1025 before tax...


----------



## Benito Joaquin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Santi8* /forum/post/20632201
> 
> 
> If you have an hh Greg I would go there. They price match anything and will beat it. I think I got them down to 1025 before tax...



Best price i've seen so far!!


Benito


----------



## docrings

HG Gregg makes their money on the very expensive extended warranties...$400 for five years, but does include bulbs, and a "no lemon" policy, which is piece of mind for some.


----------



## dandruff

hello guys ... a new owner here ... just finished playing with it for 2-3 hours. used Disney WOW to calibrate and everything is SPOT ON out of the box ... convergence etc. amazing ... did not had to make any changes .. i am sure once i play with it more ...


as soon as i started watching BD (latest Star Trek) - was blown away - worth every single penny. thanks everyone guys !


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dandruff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hello guys ... a new owner here ... just finished playing with it for 2-3 hours. used Disney WOW to calibrate and everything is SPOT ON out of the box ... convergence etc. amazing ... did not had to make any changes .. i am sure once i play with it more ...
> 
> 
> as soon as i started watching BD (latest Star Trek) - was blown away - worth every single penny. thanks everyone guys !



Ahhh, the honeymoon phase. Nothing better then a new toy! Sounds like you got a good one, congrats and enjoy


----------



## dfrankdfrank

I'm curious if anyone has watched the Lord of the Rings blu-rays with this projector. There are several several panning and tracking shots throughout each film (I wish I had these discs when I has the unit in my house for a few days). I would say these movies are perfect for testing 2:2 and whatnot, regardless of projector. Has anyone noticed any motion issues with these sort of shots. Namely jerkiness or stuttering or severe motion blur? Thanks.


----------



## kadapaking

I got Epson 8350 on Oct 22, 2010 for 960 plus tax from hhgregg (20% off coupon and $75 coupon which you can get after registering for hhgold reward membership). I got the second projector from Electronics Expo B&M store by price matching with hhgregg receipt on June 23, 2011. If you live in NJ, NY, I can send my receipts for price match. Just let me know your email id.


----------



## Rgb

I'd like to see the 8350 replacement in September- maybe 120Hz, FI, etc?


Model number?



...just 2 months away


(Haven't done a forum or thread search- throw me a bone- I'm on dialup on the road










May pull the trigger on a clearance 8350 ;


----------



## Mikes2cents

Not so sure how quick this unit is going to go on clearance. I believe it is thier top seller right now. Matter of fact it may be the top 1080p seller of all units right now.


----------



## Dregan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank*
I'm curious if anyone has watched the Lord of the Rings blu-rays with this projector. There are several several panning and tracking shots throughout each film (I wish I had these discs when I has the unit in my house for a few days). I would say these movies are perfect for testing 2:2 and whatnot, regardless of projector. Has anyone noticed any motion issues with these sort of shots. Namely jerkiness or stuttering or severe motion blur? Thanks.
I just bought the extended bluray trilogy that came out tuesday im gonna watch all 3 films later today so ill let know, however i have over 500 hours on my 8350 now and i havent noticed any studder in panning shots yet, and im pretty senstive to it. I can clearly rember being anoyed by it the first time i watched lotr on dvd on a reg 60htz lcd tv during the flyovers above the moutain shots


----------



## PRLJAMR

I am ready to pull the trigger on this pj but notice it does not do 2:35:1. I do not totally understand the AR business, is this a potential limitation for HD movies which is what I will be watching mainly, or can I just use the flexible zoom to a reasonable level? Can it do CIH? Thanks


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfrankdfrank* /forum/post/20638694
> 
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has watched the Lord of the Rings blu-rays with this projector. There are several several panning and tracking shots throughout each film (I wish I had these discs when I has the unit in my house for a few days). I would say these movies are perfect for testing 2:2 and whatnot, regardless of projector. Has anyone noticed any motion issues with these sort of shots. Namely jerkiness or stuttering or severe motion blur? Thanks.



Just installed one of these last night in a friend's dedicated home theater. This is his first projector and he is over joyed with it! That being said, I noticed the slight judder and especially the motion blur of this projector. If one hasn't seen a particular movie else where, they'll never notice it, as my friend doesn't. It was the best fit for his stingy budget and required screen size. So all in all I'm happy for him. I'm just glad to bring another person into the projector world.


----------



## Dregan

I didnt see any judder or motion blurr during the lotr trilogy, maybe your friend has a faulty unit or didnt enable 2:2 pulldown


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dregan* /forum/post/20647939
> 
> 
> I didnt see any judder or motion blurr during the lotr trilogy, maybe your friend has a faulty unit or didnt enable 2:2 pulldown



It wasn't on the trilogy, I've seen it on Tron Legacy and a few other movies. The motion blur was what I noticed the most. I've seen it on three different units. I doubt his unit is faulty. I don't notice it on my LCD TV playing Xbox, until I use my Plasma for the same task and return to the LCD. Just like RBE, some of us can see it where others do not.


----------



## Youngster

I am struggling with which mount to buy. I need to drop down 16" from the ceiling because of a ceiling fan I have to clear. Is there a cost-effective way to accomplish this? I see the following mount at projectorpeople will work but $250 is way too much.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...80137&page=161


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Youngster* /forum/post/20649119
> 
> 
> I am struggling with which mount to buy. I need to drop down 16" from the ceiling because of a ceiling fan I have to clear. Is there a cost-effective way to accomplish this? I see the following mount at projectorpeople will work but $250 is way too much.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...80137&page=161



The Cheif RPA 168 Dedicated PJ Mount. It comes complete with a specifically stamped Metal Projector Bracket made for the Epson 8000 - 9000 series PJs.


It has a 1.5" Threaded Opening on Top that easily accepts a 1.5" PVC Threaded Male Coupling...that in turn accept 1.5" PVC Sched.40 Pipe...cut to your desired length...that in turn get's another Threaded Male coupling that screws into the Peerless Model ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate. The PVC Pipe is available in pre-cut 24" lengths at Home Depot so you can cut it down to your desired length yourself.

http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr...ct.aspx/sp/485 



All that allows you to have your 16" drop, hide all the wires within that drop, and have an installation that looks like someone who knows what they are doing did it.


Call Projector People...ask for ext. 2002. Ask specifically for those items.


Mount = $138.00

Ceiling Plate = $25.00


24" of PVC Pipe = $4.00

Primer & Glue = $9.00


Paint the Pipe and Plate the same color as the ceiling.


You'll love it...believe me. You could spend more for something that isn't nearly as well suited, or less and wind up with something that looks almost "Frankenstein-like" with bolts, screws, and extensions.











PS...the Ceiling Plate used in the Photo above is not the Peerless Round Plate...obviously.


----------



## hokieirish

I'm having trouble finding a cheap HDMI cable that works for my 8350. I bought a 25' cable a few weeks ago off of amazon and it worked for about 10 minutes then stopped. I went back on Amazon and bought a different brand 30' cable. This one lasted about 2 weeks then all of a sudden stopped working. I'm running the wire under the carpet along the edge of the wall so it does pass two electrical outlets on the way to the projector. What cable do I need to make this thing work? My next attempt was going to be from monoprice but I figured I'd check in here first.


This is the most recent cable I bought. I thought the specs looked good...don't know why it suddenly died.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027NTUMC


----------



## MississippiMan

That $11.00 price pretty much sums it up. Something that is just too " Cheap" can cost you more in the long run, unfortunately.


Go to / call Compatible Cable (510-928-1974) ....ask for Bill.


They have HDMI v.1.4 Cables for $1.00 per ft. Tell Bill MississippiMan sez ta treat ya right.










PS....one thing to take into account. The heavier, much thicker and really long HDMI cables put a lot of strain on the connection at the PJ Input/ Rec/DVD Outputs.

It does not take much of a sideways or vertical stressing to bugger up a single conductor within the Female connections. Try you best to make such connections "strain-free"


----------



## ERuiz

Have you tried monoprice? They have great deals on hdmi cables of great quality.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20649288
> 
> 
> Have you tried monoprice? They have great deals on hdmi cables of great quality.



They cannot touch CC as far as v.1.4 24 ga. HDMI cables that hold signal strength out to 40' and beyond. Price /Performance wise, I stake my efforts almost daily on the Cables from CC. You can bet I'd go elsewhere for less if such was possible.


But it just ain't.


----------



## Youngster

Folks,


Excuse my ignorance as this is my first projector. The ideal location in my media room for the 8350 is to place the lens 17 feet away from my screen. My screen is 105" diagonally.


Is that too great a distance? I mean will the image or brightness be degraded? I suspect the optimal distance is about 12-13 feet, but will 17 be noticeably worse?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Youngster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks,
> 
> 
> Excuse my ignorance as this is my first projector. The ideal location in my media room for the 8350 is to place the lens 17 feet away from my screen. My screen is 105" diagonally.
> 
> 
> Is that too great a distance? I mean will the image or brightness be degraded? I suspect the optimal distance is about 12-13 feet, but will 17 be noticeably worse?



It should be fine.


----------



## hokieirish

Thank you for all of the quick responses guys, but I think the issue has just changed. I was wrong about the cable. It does work. The first one was actually bad, but this one I just assumed was bad like the first.


I'm not sure if the issue is my receiver or my projector. I have an Onkyo 605 receiver. It's about 3-4 years old. If I run the hdmi cable straight to the projector from the cable box or ps3, I get a picture just fine. If I run an hdmi cable from the ps3/cable box directly to the receiver I get audio just fine. When I connect the ps3/cable box to the receiver input AND connect the projector to the receivers hdmi output, the receiver loses the signal. Which item do you think is causing this? They both work seperately, but not together. The projector is a month or so old. It's one Epson sent me after I sent back the first one due to dust blobs (read: bulb life and 2 small blobs)


----------



## Mossay

Finally got my replacement 8350 (first one was a refurbished dud). Only thing I'm concerned about is the bottom line of pixels are ever so slightly green, and on a pure white screen the bottom right corner section is slightly blue though I've cured that by rejigging the color settings but theres still hints of discoloration near as you get closer to the that corner's edges. I'll give it till the end of the month to see if it rectifies itself but otherwise its absolutely perfect. Anyone have similar issues?


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Hi. I did a cursory search and didn't find anything on this topic, but I have a real issue and would like to find out if there is a solution. We own a vacation villa in St. John, USVI. We have been down for two weeks and will be leaving in a couple of days. When we are not here, we rent the villa out by the week. I installed a home theater system during a previous visit; it consists of an Epson 8350, a High Power screen, and a Sony Blu-ray player. I had to throw some breakers for our electrician yesterday, and afterwords my wife asked me why I had turned the projector on. Subsequent testing by simply unplugging the AC cord revealed that whenever the AC power is interrupted, the projector turns on when the power is restored. Power outages happen down here. I assumed that the projector would go into sleep mode (which is enabled) after a short while, but it does not. This is a real issue. Tech support cannot be reached over this holiday weekend. My bulb will die pretty fast if there is a power outage during a few weeks where we don't have any guests. Does anyone recognize this issue, and is there a fix? Thank you.


Kevin


----------



## MississippiMan

That's a first I'm pretty sure. Having the PJ come on upon the restoration of interrupted power and remain on even if there is no signal being supplied flies in the face of reason. That is definitely a Warranty Repair issue.


If you simply turn it off yourself...while maintaining the 110 supply, and then turn it back on without engaging any signal, will it then act normally then and shut down after 5 minutes?


If so, then the issue lies with a bad relay in the Power Supply circuit. If power is removed on the "Wall side", the circuit should automatically reset to "Off" Mode. That does not seem to be happening.


Until you can get the unit fixed, you could either wire the 110 supply to a "Switch" and leave instructions that the PJ must be turned off there.


Or....your 2 other better choices are...


1. Leave the unit unplugged and wait until you get things sorted out.

2. Pray that there is no loss power. Or..get a $50.00 APC UPS. If the PJ is "OFF" and the UPS kicks in it will only be powering "Standby" so it would last several *DAYS* if not a week or more. Once engaged it will still only provide battery back-up current...and once that dies...the 110 current cannot be restored until the UPC is reset. If you can make that connection...that's your safest and best solution until a repair can be effected.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

MM: Thanks. I think that I have this figured out now. Since I wanted the operation to be as easy as possible for guests, I didn't want them to have to feel around near the power cord entry for the AC switch. I accordingly set the "Direct Power On" function to ON; this causes the projector to turn on when AC power is applied. If combined with a 5 minute Sleep mode setting, this would avoid extended unintended operation, but the projector would always be in sleep mode, ready to start up by just pressing the top cover Power button. However, I'm pretty sure that I had in fact set the Sleep mode to 5 minutes. When I checked, this was actually set to OFF. I wonder if the last extended power outage, about a day long, caused the projector to drop back to the default settings. I'm thinking that with Direct Power On set to On and Sleep set to 5 minutes, I should be good to go, unless it forgets the sleep mode setting. Does anyone know what the default setting is for the Sleep mode?


Kevin


----------



## invadergir




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hokieirish* /forum/post/20649364
> 
> 
> Thank you for all of the quick responses guys, but I think the issue has just changed. I was wrong about the cable. It does work. The first one was actually bad, but this one I just assumed was bad like the first.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if the issue is my receiver or my projector. I have an Onkyo 605 receiver. It's about 3-4 years old. If I run the hdmi cable straight to the projector from the cable box or ps3, I get a picture just fine. If I run an hdmi cable from the ps3/cable box directly to the receiver I get audio just fine. When I connect the ps3/cable box to the receiver input AND connect the projector to the receivers hdmi output, the receiver loses the signal. Which item do you think is causing this? They both work seperately, but not together. The projector is a month or so old. It's one Epson sent me after I sent back the first one due to dust blobs (read: bulb life and 2 small blobs)



I too have the 8350 and the Onkyo 605 receiver. I don't know if this is your first attempt at using an HDMI connection for your audio and video setup on your Onkyo. Make sure you have gone into your Onkyo menu and setup the video to HDMI out. Plus setup the inputs for both your HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connection to DVD, TV or whatever you want to use. I have mine on CBL/TV for my DVR sound only using an optical cable. Ran an HDMI connection directly into one of the inputs of the Epson from the DVR HDMI output. Have my PS3 set to GAME and XBOX360 to AUX. Then i have the HDMI output cable from my receiver going into the 2nd HDMI input on my Epson.


Could be a simple fix like that


----------



## Mikes2cents

Not sure what this is all about but I suspect you or someone has enabled direct power on which will cause the PJ to power on when there is a power outage and power is restored. Go into the setup options and disable it. Page 47 of the owners manual. Yes I just bought this unit at hhgregg. Good price, best I have seen but you gotta deal. I think this will solve your problem though the 5 minute inactivity thing is not a bad option either in most instances.


Default setting is direct power not on, so you must press the power on button twice. That is what you want, not sleep or blank screen, but off. This is not rocket science and the manual clearly says if you enable this feature that the unit will power on after a power interruption.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/20650084
> 
> 
> MM: Thanks. I think that I have this figured out now. Since I wanted the operation to be as easy as possible for guests, I didn't want them to have to feel around near the power cord entry for the AC switch. I accordingly set the "Direct Power On" function to ON; this causes the projector to turn on when AC power is applied. If combined with a 5 minute Sleep mode setting, this would avoid extended unintended operation, but the projector would always be in sleep mode, ready to start up by just pressing the top cover Power button. However, I'm pretty sure that I had in fact set the Sleep mode to 5 minutes. When I checked, this was actually set to OFF. I wonder if the last extended power outage, about a day long, caused the projector to drop back to the default settings. I'm thinking that with Direct Power On set to On and Sleep set to 5 minutes, I should be good to go, unless it forgets the sleep mode setting. Does anyone know what the default setting is for the Sleep mode?
> 
> 
> Kevin


----------



## viper98912

I run my projector from 17' on a 100" screen and it's great


I run a 45' monopricce 24g cable to get signal there with no problems


----------



## hokieirish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *invadergir* /forum/post/20650380
> 
> 
> I too have the 8350 and the Onkyo 605 receiver. I don't know if this is your first attempt at using an HDMI connection for your audio and video setup on your Onkyo. Make sure you have gone into your Onkyo menu and setup the video to HDMI out. Plus setup the inputs for both your HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connection to DVD, TV or whatever you want to use. I have mine on CBL/TV for my DVR sound only using an optical cable. Ran an HDMI connection directly into one of the inputs of the Epson from the DVR HDMI output. Have my PS3 set to GAME and XBOX360 to AUX. Then i have the HDMI output cable from my receiver going into the 2nd HDMI input on my Epson.
> 
> 
> Could be a simple fix like that



Thanks for your help. I've actually had the two working together just fine for the last 7 months. I believe my receiver has gone bad, which is causing all of the problems. I'm buying a new one today. We'll see how it goes...


----------



## Youngster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *viper98912* /forum/post/20650952
> 
> 
> I run my projector from 17' on a 100" screen and it's great
> 
> 
> I run a 45' monopricce 24g cable to get signal there with no problems



That's reassuring. I ran the calculator and for a 105" screen the sweet spot for the 8350 is 14 feet. I need to place it at 17 feet. I don't know how much brightness I will lose by moving back 3 feet. The calculator will prolly tell me that but I can't figure out how.


----------



## Damien701

Well I've had my 8350 for about a year. Great purchase overall.


Problem is my image has gotten dim. Like _really_ dim. Much dimmer than it was a month or so ago. I don't have a way to measure the lumen output but it seems quite poor, even on dynamic or living mode which I never use anyway.


There is only about 1800 hours on the bulb and seeing as its rated to 4,000 hours and I got about 3,000 hours out of my old sanyo z5.......I'm very disappointed.


I read about 8100 owners getting replacement bulbs under warranty. Maybe some knowledgable Guru can help me. Would this apply to the 8350? Do I have a 2 year warranty? And would epson be willing to replace my bulb? If so, who do I talk to or call.


Thanks for your help in advance guys. I appreciate it.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701* /forum/post/20655325
> 
> 
> Well I've had my 8350 for about a year. Great purchase overall.
> 
> 
> Problem is my image has gotten dim. Like _really_ dim. Much dimmer than it was a month or so ago. I don't have a way to measure the lumen output but it seems quite poor, even on dynamic or living mode which I never use anyway.
> 
> 
> There is only about 1800 hours on the bulb and seeing as its rated to 4,000 hours and I got about 3,000 hours out of my old sanyo z5.......I'm very disappointed.
> 
> 
> I read about 8100 owners getting replacement bulbs under warranty. Maybe some knowledgable Guru can help me. Would this apply to the 8350? Do I have a 2 year warranty? And would epson be willing to replace my bulb? If so, who do I talk to or call.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help in advance guys. I appreciate it.



call Epson, you should be fine to get a replacement according to what guys are saying here. Post back the results and good luck. 1800hrs is pathetic for a 4000hr bulb.


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20522403
> 
> 
> I hate to derail the "it's too noisy/no it's not/I've had a dozen bad ones/My first one worked great" theme we've got going here, but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rather than try to cut a new custom steel mounting plate for my old DIY projector mount, I got a "VideoSecu" Universal projector mount with a 25.6" extender (the PJ2B model), which showed up yesterday. As expected, it was too small for my 8350 using the standard "4 legged X" configuration. However, it was very easy with no dremeling at all to switch it to a "3 legged Y" configuration; I got home late last night and only had time to get that done before hitting the sack - I hope to have the thing fully mounted and installed tonight. By "very easy" I mean "spent an hour trying to find my stupid metric 8 wrench in my toolbox
> 
> 
> Definitely something for people to consider when getting this projector - if you're planning to ceiling mount this thing rather than shelf mount it, the mounting holes are a lot farther apart than other projectors, so it could be tricky getting a "Universal" mount to work with it...



Keep us posted with your VideoSecu mount. I'm also thinking about pulling the trigger on this mount for my 8350. The reason is because I need it lower then my ceiling fan so i need the 26in drop. I'm not sure but I'm thinking most people should have this problem since most rooms have ceiling fans.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20656282
> 
> 
> Keep us posted with your VideoSecu mount. I'm also thinking about pulling the trigger on this mount for my 8350. The reason is because I need it lower then my ceiling fan so i need the 26in drop. I'm not sure but I'm thinking most people should have this problem since most rooms have ceiling fans.



You really should consider this one:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20649272


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfmp3* /forum/post/20655644
> 
> 
> call Epson, you should be fine to get a replacement according to what guys are saying here. Post back the results and good luck. 1800hrs is pathetic for a 4000hr bulb.



Harsh.....


Considering that we don't know if the PJ in question was running on Normal (3000hr ) or Econo (4000). We don't know if it was ever powered down incorrectly (power loss)


And if the Poster has had his for almost a year (.... since the PJ wasn't released until Sept, 2010...) and has put 1800 hrs on it, that represents more than average use.

( 300 days @ 6 hrs a day average in fact.)


Damien701.....I used a lot of Sanyos...and most did in fact last well beyond their stated Bulb life. But they also were nowhere near as bright a PJ, nor did they run nearly as hot. Heat kills....yet even with that your Epson has done...well, at least OK.










So lets understand something as well. Epson introduced the Bulb Replacement allowance because of failures being experienced at usage levels "under" 1000 hrs on the 8500, 8700, and 9700 PJ, then graciously included the 8350 (...even though it was experiencing no issues at that time...) and even reto'd back to the 8100 as well!


Historically, if someone bought a PJ with a Bulb rated at 3000 hrs, it was generally understood (...and accepted...) that the stated figure was not a guaranteed time. No...simply a reasonable expectation. No one ever discounted that the PJ Mfg really had no control as to what happens to a high intensity Light bulb once inserted into the User's circumstances. Beyond the fact that those Bulbs might grow dimmer (...and strangely...it seems I've read once or twice how members had to allow for the dimming of a bulb as it ages....







) or experience weakening from overheating (repeated Power Loss...improper mounting) and fail before their "estimated lifespan", up until Epson made that decision no other PJ Mfg. had *ever* accepted responsibility for a Bulb failure that occurred outside the 30 Days-300hr window most PJ Mfg offered.


Now either way, if you chalk it up to good marketing in an aggressive marketplace, or a genuine attempt to say; "Oops, we tried to chinz by spec'ing some cheap-arse Bulbs. Our Bad. We'll make 'em good." ....Epson is there for their Customers.


Hey...I'm not singling out the quoted Member above in any way...the post is just an "mild" example of how recently people have been really ragging out on the Bulb issue. It seems that now that Epson has stepped up to face the issue, they are being being ostracized unduly for having done so. And as a result, People are coming to expect more "Life" of the Bulbs than has ever been accepted before. Again, Epson could have put a 1000 hr limit on claims...a more than reasonable gesture...but Wow! They extended the Bulb guarantee for the life of the 2 Year warranty! On every HT unit they sell!


Not enough is ventured toward hailing what is a Landmark decision by a PJ Mfg! Nooooo....instead some use it as a Club to beat the drum about how Bulbs can fail before their specified (...it's always estimated...not guaranteed, remember that...) time.


And that's just not right. Or fair. Case in point. On this Thread...and elsewhere, there have been far fewer reports of Bulb issues than on the other "Dedicated Epson" threads. Certainly almost none in any instances where 1800 hrs use within 10 months is the case. As Thread Starter, it's not my place to criticize any 8350 user's complaint. That's not what I'm doing here. I feel the opposite. Any justifiable complaint brings important significance to Lurkers who are potential Owners. One does want to know if there are issue waiting.


But any such complaint...and response, should be tempered with both knowledge and understanding in order to not leave a wrongful impression or idea behind.


In this case, it's really all about what a End User can expect...or has to accept / put up with.


Epson has tried hard, and continues to try harder than any other PJ Mfg to address what has always been a sticky issue for wannabe PJ owners. "What if the Bulb goes out just after the 300 hr -30 day time limit?" ( note: JVC has recently adopted a similar but more restrictive Bulb Replacement policy due to premature dimming and/or outright failure. *BUT...* most of the instances fr either issue have been occuring within 80 Hours! The JVC Bulb cost $500.00 too...







You can bet Epson's policy helped influence JVC because just recently they have started extending the Time to......1000 hrs! )


Good 'ol Epson.










So let's give Epson it's due propers on the issue, and encourage people to not worry...just enjoy and expect a great viewing experience. And live /breathe easier knowing they will not have to spend any extra cash for a replacement Bulb during the life of the original Mfg's Warranty.


----------



## Damien701

MississippiMan, I agree with alot of what you said.


Customer support is deemed as an optional extra by alot of companies. The good guys like Epson should be applauded for their stance.


Having said that, they touted the 8350 as having a 4000 hour bulb. If it comes in short of that....say 3k or 2.5k I could accept that as acceptable. But my supposed 4,000 hour bulb hasnt even lasted 2,000 hours on eco mode for 95% of its life. Thats not good mate and is why I was asking about bulb warranty.


And you are spot on about the 8350 being wayyyyy brighter than a z5. I like brightness. I have a 100 inch 1.4 gain screen. Its important to me. And the difference is very significant in the last week or two. Tbh I doubt im even hitting 400 lumens. Its just awful at the moment.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20656282
> 
> 
> Keep us posted with your VideoSecu mount. I'm also thinking about pulling the trigger on this mount for my 8350. The reason is because I need it lower then my ceiling fan so i need the 26in drop. I'm not sure but I'm thinking most people should have this problem since most rooms have ceiling fans.



It's been working great for me so far. My only beef about the mount was when we were actually mounting it - it's composed of two hollow square tubes, one slides inside the other so you can adjust the drop yourself (it drops out to nearly 24" from the ceiling) - there's a small square of metal with a screw in it that is used to prevent the bottom tube from sliding out from the top tube. I assumed there was some sort of bolt "catch" to make sure they wouldn't completely slide apart (because it looks like it does) but it turns out it's a pure pressure fitting.


So, there I am - we've got the projector "rough mounted", and now I climb down from the stepladder to go find a carpenter's level so I can adjust the mount. I find the level, climb back up the ladder, put the palm of my left hand under the projector as I place the carpenter's level on top of it (the bottom of the pj actually as it's inverted) when...the bottom tube slides completely free of the top tube and I'm unexpectedly balancing the weight of the projector and the bottom tube and "spider" of the mount on my left hand.


This was completely my fault; instead of "assuming", I should have tightened the pressure screw before walking away from the projector the first time. However, this was very close to a "honey, could you come up here and hold the projector for me - I have to go change my pants" moment...







I have since - and this was a precaution I took with my prior mount - attached a thin metal cable between the upper and lower tubes so that if for whatever reason the tubes slide apart, the projector won't fall. But it's probably completely unnecessary; I'm just a belt and suspenders guy...


For the money, you can't beat the mount - total cost with shipping was


----------



## viper98912




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Youngster* /forum/post/20651455
> 
> 
> That's reassuring. I ran the calculator and for a 105" screen the sweet spot for the 8350 is 14 feet. I need to place it at 17 feet. I don't know how much brightness I will lose by moving back 3 feet. The calculator will prolly tell me that but I can't figure out how.




I have mine in a non-light controlled room (my living room!) and during the daytime I need to put it on dynamic to be able to watch correctly. At night I put it back on natural, and even sometimes dim the brightness a little bit before it starts to burn my eyeballs. You'll be fine.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701* /forum/post/20656455
> 
> 
> Tbh I doubt im even hitting 400 lumens. Its just awful at the moment.



Make sure no one put the lens cap on without you noticing it. LOL Just kidding bro. =) haha


----------



## dfrankdfrank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dregan* /forum/post/20647939
> 
> 
> I didnt see any judder or motion blurr during the lotr trilogy, maybe your friend has a faulty unit or didnt enable 2:2 pulldown



That's good. I figured those films are the torture test for stuttering judder.


----------



## newfmp3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20656400
> 
> 
> Harsh.....
> 
> 
> Considering that we don't know if the PJ in question was running on Normal (3000hr ) or Econo (4000). We don't know if it was ever powered down incorrectly (power loss)
> 
> 
> And if the Poster has had his for almost a year (.... since the PJ wasn't released until Sept, 2010...) and has put 1800 hrs on it, that represents more than average use.
> 
> ( 300 days @ 6 hrs a day average in fact.)
> 
> 
> Damien701.....I used a lot of Sanyos...and most did in fact last well beyond their stated Bulb life. But they also were nowhere near as bright a PJ, nor did they run nearly as hot. Heat kills....yet even with that your Epson has done...well, at least OK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets understand something as well. Epson introduced the Bulb Replacement allowance because of failures being experienced at usage levels "under" 1000 hrs on the 8500, 8700, and 9700 PJ, then graciously included the 8350 (...even though it was experiencing no issues at that time...) and even reto'd back to the 8100 as well!
> 
> 
> Historically, if someone bought a PJ with a Bulb rated at 3000 hrs, it was generally understood (...and accepted...) that the stated figure was not a guaranteed time. No...simply a reasonable expectation. No one ever discounted that the PJ Mfg really had no control as to what happens to a high intensity Light bulb once inserted into the User's circumstances. Beyond the fact that those Bulbs might grow dimmer (...and strangely...it seems I've read once or twice how members had to allow for the dimming of a bulb as it ages....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or experience weakening from overheating (repeated Power Loss...improper mounting) and fail before their "estimated lifespan", up until Epson made that decision no other PJ Mfg. had *ever* accepted responsibility for a Bulb failure that occurred outside the 30 Days-300hr window most PJ Mfg offered.
> 
> 
> Now either way, if you chalk it up to good marketing in an aggressive marketplace, or a genuine attempt to say; "Oops, we tried to chinz by spec'ing some cheap-arse Bulbs. Our Bad. We'll make 'em good." ....Epson is there for their Customers.
> 
> 
> Hey...I'm not singling out the quoted Member above in any way...the post is just an "mild" example of how recently people have been really ragging out on the Bulb issue. It seems that now that Epson has stepped up to face the issue, they are being being ostracized unduly for having done so. And as a result, People are coming to expect more "Life" of the Bulbs than has ever been accepted before. Again, Epson could have put a 1000 hr limit on claims...a more than reasonable gesture...but Wow! They extended the Bulb guarantee for the life of the 2 Year warranty! On every HT unit they sell!
> 
> 
> Not enough is ventured toward hailing what is a Landmark decision by a PJ Mfg! Nooooo....instead some use it as a Club to beat the drum about how Bulbs can fail before their specified (...it's always estimated...not guaranteed, remember that...) time.
> 
> 
> And that's just not right. Or fair. Case in point. On this Thread...and elsewhere, there have been far fewer reports of Bulb issues than on the other "Dedicated Epson" threads. Certainly almost none in any instances where 1800 hrs use within 10 months is the case. As Thread Starter, it's not my place to criticize any 8350 user's complaint. That's not what I'm doing here. I feel the opposite. Any justifiable complaint brings important significance to Lurkers who are potential Owners. One does want to know if there are issue waiting.
> 
> 
> But any such complaint...and response, should be tempered with both knowledge and understanding in order to not leave a wrongful impression or idea behind.
> 
> 
> In this case, it's really all about what a End User can expect...or has to accept / put up with.
> 
> 
> Epson has tried hard, and continues to try harder than any other PJ Mfg to address what has always been a sticky issue for wannabe PJ owners. "What if the Bulb goes out just after the 300 hr -30 day time limit?" ( note: JVC has recently adopted a similar but more restrictive Bulb Replacement policy due to premature dimming and/or outright failure. *BUT...* most of the instances fr either issue have been occuring within 80 Hours! The JVC Bulb cost $500.00 too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can bet Epson's policy helped influence JVC because just recently they have started extending the Time to......1000 hrs! )
> 
> 
> Good 'ol Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's give Epson it's due propers on the issue, and encourage people to not worry...just enjoy and expect a great viewing experience. And live /breathe easier knowing they will not have to spend any extra cash for a replacement Bulb during the life of the original Mfg's Warranty.



Listen I'll admit that 1800hrs over 10 months isn't as bad as other at 300hrs and 4 months but....


There are multiple posts on this site saying Epson replaced their cheap assed bulb with the exact same cheap assed bulb. They were facing a class action law suit given the direction they were heading in and offering bulbs replacements is a sure way to avoid said suit isn't it? Yes, they may have agreed to replace bulbs on certain PJ's, but yet they refuse to admit to a design issue, and refuse to actually FIX the problem. So when our precious Epsons go past 2yrs warranty we have only two options...keep buying bulbs every 1000 hours more or less, or replace PJ.


Listen, I like my PJ and all too, but there are some serious quality control issues going on at Epson and I for one am not going to go running around recommending the units until their issues are taken care of properly.


----------



## Allforce

In theory how long can you keep replacing bulbs in this projector? Is there any sort of wear and tear on the actual unit going on or is putting a new bulb in basically getting you back to square one and an image that came right out of the box?


----------



## Rgb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/20660205
> 
> 
> In theory how long can you keep replacing bulbs in this projector? Is there any sort of wear and tear on the actual unit going on or is putting a new bulb in basically getting you back to square one and an image that came right out of the box?



The LCD panels age, though aging was worse with older organic panels. LCD aging causes panel discoloration and maybe dead pixels.


THe polarizers can age/oxidize and discolor.


Dust may build up on the panels/prism and other parts of the optical path.


Fan bearings will wear and increase in noise/fail after a long time. Other parts with bearings/motors may wear/burn out after a very long time, though the projector will probably have no market value by the time this happens.


In practice, though, changing the bulb at least the first few times is like getting a new projector


----------



## farhanm

Guys, my head is spinning from reading multiple reviews and hearing different things, but I think I've narrowed down my projector choice to the Epson 9350 (8350). I'd like to pair this with a 110" Stewart Firehawk G3 for movie watching and HD sports. This is a completely light controlled room, but I will have some ambient light on during sports.


How do you guys think this would work out? Is it worth upgrading to the 8700/9700? My original thinking was to spend more money on the fixed items, like screen speakers, etc, and skimp a bit on the projector, since I think in the next 2-3 years everything will get replaced with mainstream 3D.


Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I really need the help!


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *farhanm* /forum/post/20661963
> 
> 
> Guys, my head is spinning from reading multiple reviews and hearing different things, but I think I've narrowed down my projector choice to the Epson 9350 (8350). I'd like to pair this with a 110" Stewart Firehawk G3 for movie watching and HD sports. This is a completely light controlled room, but I will have some ambient light on during sports.
> 
> 
> How do you guys think this would work out?



I think you will be fine with that as I watched a DVD on my 8350 yesterday afternoon in a 150" setting on a beige wall with some ambient light. No big problems and on eco mode.


On a separate note, I am getting this nasty burning smell with my new 8350. It now has 10 hours on it and the wife walked in yesterday and asked what was burning? I agree it smells like something is burning out, not in. I have had a lot of electronic gear. I need to get to the bottom of this and soon. This thing is 4 days old. My last PJ did not stink like this. Can anyone shed any light on this? Aside from the smell it works fine and puts out a ton of heat. No the vents are not blocked in any way. Thanks.


----------



## Mikes2cents

I realize it has only been a few hours after my last post, but I was thinking about this while I was searching for a 150" screen. My plan is to hook this thing up to my cable box, (not like that now as my HDMI cable is too short, but going to move the unit closer) and watch TV on it until either the smell goes away or the thing melts down. My experience says it is go time and live or die for the unit. I hate to waste bulb hours on that but I have to know if this needs to go back to the store for an exchange. As always all input is welcome and appreciated.


----------



## eat meat

I have seen bulbs"bend",could it now be touching the cage and heating up surounding plastic ?Let it cool and pull the bulb ?


----------



## Quick Hands

I believe a lot of people experienced a burning smell when first using their projector it goes away but without knowing the smell it's tough to say.

I say run it and keep a close eye on it, good luck!


----------



## Allforce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *farhanm* /forum/post/20661963
> 
> 
> Guys, my head is spinning from reading multiple reviews and hearing different things, but I think I've narrowed down my projector choice to the Epson 9350 (8350). I'd like to pair this with a 110" Stewart Firehawk G3 for movie watching and HD sports. This is a completely light controlled room, but I will have some ambient light on during sports.
> 
> 
> How do you guys think this would work out? Is it worth upgrading to the 8700/9700? My original thinking was to spend more money on the fixed items, like screen speakers, etc, and skimp a bit on the projector, since I think in the next 2-3 years everything will get replaced with mainstream 3D.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I really need the help!



I'm throwing up a 120" image on a DARK blue wall in the middle of the day until I get my screen delivered, I got a basement window facing westward and the 8350 puts up a solid picture that is as good as any TV I've seen despite the ambient light going on.


I say go for the 8350 and save yourself a grand or more.


Here's some pics, mind you this is on a dark blue painted wall with some recessed lights on.

*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) Spoiler  
*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)










*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) Spoiler  
*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)


----------



## Youngster

MM, you make a compelling case. However, I failed to mention that my ceiling is slanted at about 8 degrees. Is there a solution to this?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20649272
> 
> 
> The Cheif RPA 168 Dedicated PJ Mount. It comes complete with a specifically stamped Metal Projector Bracket made for the Epson 8000 - 9000 series PJs.
> 
> 
> It has a 1.5" Threaded Opening on Top that easily accepts a 1.5" PVC Threaded Male Coupling...that in turn accept 1.5" PVC Sched.40 Pipe...cut to your desired length...that in turn get's another Threaded Male coupling that screws into the Peerless Model ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate. The PVC Pipe is available in pre-cut 24" lengths at Home Depot so you can cut it down to your desired length yourself.
> 
> http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr...ct.aspx/sp/485
> 
> 
> 
> All that allows you to have your 16" drop, hide all the wires within that drop, and have an installation that looks like someone who knows what they are doing did it.
> 
> 
> Call Projector People...ask for ext. 2002. Ask specifically for those items.
> 
> 
> Mount = $138.00
> 
> Ceiling Plate = $25.00
> 
> 
> 24" of PVC Pipe = $4.00
> 
> Primer & Glue = $9.00
> 
> 
> Paint the Pipe and Plate the same color as the ceiling.
> 
> 
> You'll love it...believe me. You could spend more for something that isn't nearly as well suited, or less and wind up with something that looks almost "Frankenstein-like" with bolts, screws, and extensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS...the Ceiling Plate used in the Photo above is not the Peerless Round Plate...obviously.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20662530
> 
> 
> I realize it has only been a few hours after my last post, but I was thinking about this while I was searching for a 150" screen. My plan is to hook this thing up to my cable box, (not like that now as my HDMI cable is too short, but going to move the unit closer) and watch TV on it until either the smell goes away or the thing melts down. My experience says it is go time and live or die for the unit. I hate to waste bulb hours on that but I have to know if this needs to go back to the store for an exchange. As always all input is welcome and appreciated.



UPDATE: I had the unit up tonight to watch cable TV. I know, but we do have our shows we watch. First hour or so, still kind of stinky, like a soldering smell, then to an unhappy warm plastic smell, and after about 3 hours not much of a smell. So now I am cooking a hot dog in front of the exhaust vent. JK, but the unit would make a great space heater. Looks like the unit is fine but we will know for sure over the next week as I am going to put some hours on it. Sink or swim. Right now it is swimming along fine. I may be going for a 135" screen now as that seems to be about ideal for my setup. I need to order one.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Youngster* /forum/post/20667426
> 
> 
> MM, you make a compelling case. However, I failed to mention that my ceiling is slanted at about 8 degrees. Is there a solution to this?




Send me a PM (...or post...) a image of your location.


8 Degrees is not very much. You could construct a Canted Wedge that serves as a level Base.


I get around such idiosyncrasies easily enough when I run into them, but that's me...


Give me today to search out a adjustable cantilevered Mount solution that has a 1.5" threaded Hole. I already know of one...but it's overpriced.


Hang tight though...there are other's available.


----------



## KlingonScum

Nuts.


First, a quick sitrep: my projector is ceiling mounted, the lens exactly centered on the centerline of the screen, about 13.5' away from the screen, which is a Da-Lite HCCV screen about 109" diagonal. I feed it HDMI from my HD Dish DVR, and VGA from my HTPC.


I had noticed earlier - and ONLY on an all-white background - about a one pixel wide green vertical line down the far left side of the screen; I figured it was a tiny tiny convergence issue and I wasn't going to worry about it.


But, while using a browser, I kept thinking my eyes were going a little fuzzy on me (hey, over 40, you figure the eyes start having issues). But I walked up and took a close look - and discovered I didn't have the image in focus. So I got a small zooming monocular and used the focusing ring to zero it in. What I discovered:
I could get the right side of the screen razor sharp, but I could never get the left side that way...
Letters displayed (as in a browser window or word processor) on the left side definitely were sort of "blurry", extending to the upper right of the letter displayed. The same letters, same font, etc on the RIGHT side were razor sharp...
This was the kicker: bring up a browser, do a Google search on "Ross Martin", and switch to "images" - the thumbnails that come up are mostly black and white and really make convergence issues stand out - the black and white thumbnails, again, on the left side of the screen and getting progressively worse as you approach the edge of the displayed area, have a faint red line on the right side of the thumbnails and a faint green line on the left side of the thumbnails.


(I discovered the "Ross Martin" approach quite by accident; I'd just gotten "The Great Race" on DVD, and as I was watching it I suddenly realized ol' Ross Martin looks a hell of a lot like "Castiel" from "Supernatural", and brought up that image search to show my wife to prove it - that's when I realized "oh, man...looks like I DO have those convergence issues everybody else has been complaining about)


So...I'm not sure what to do here. I know some people on this thread (if they're still monitoring) have returned their units to Epson for a replacement. How does that work - will they send the replacement out before you send them your unit (so in other words, I wouldn't have to go without TV while I'm waiting for the round trip to happen)? What about the bulb - my bulb has less than 100 hours on it; do they put my bulb in the replacement or do they give you a new one?


I'm still debating what to do about it; I really don't notice the issue much when watching movies (DVDs, upscaled) or my HD (1080i) satellite feed, but when I do use it for occasional surfing or bringing up documents, it's definitely annoying. If it turns out I'd have to package the thing up and send it back, then wait (likely a week or two) for the replacement to show up (and run the risk of the new unit being just as bad or worse since it will itself be a refurb and I know some people on the thread have gone through that ordeal multiple times), I might just wait until I get close to the end of the 2 year warranty period.


----------



## mach250

question, where do you guys go for a replacement bulb...second question, do you think a best buy 2 year plan for $150 (includes one free bulb replacement) is worth it? Guessing these bulbs arent 150 or less.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> question, where do you guys go for a replacement bulb...second question, do you think a best buy 2 year plan for $150 (includes one free bulb replacement) is worth it? Guessing these bulbs arent 150 or less.



Why pay an extra $150 for what Epson already covers? With Epson, you also get a two year warranty and a free bulb within those two years. Unless BB's warranty kicks in AFTER Epson's, which I really doubt.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20669572
> 
> 
> Why pay an extra $150 for what Epson already covers? With Epson, you also get a two year warranty and a free bulb within those two years. Unless BB's warranty kicks in AFTER Epson's, which I really doubt.



Whoa, wait...free bulb within 2 years? Isn't that only if your bulb fails? The Best Buy deal - isn't it a free bulb no matter what?


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20670669
> 
> 
> Whoa, wait...free bulb within 2 years? Isn't that only if your bulb fails? The Best Buy deal - isn't it a free bulb no matter what?



As far as I know, it's a free bulb within 2 years, regardless if it's due to failure.


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20670731
> 
> 
> As far as I know, it's a free bulb within 2 years, regardless if it's due to failure.



So what do you say to epson to get the free bulb if there's nothing wrong with it? I sure will like to take advantage of this in 2 years.


----------



## greddy09sc

So I got my projector for a week now. I moved it all around the room testing the best spot.

We decided to have it viewing at 17ft with a 17ft throw. I was thinking about getting a 120in - 133in projector. But my wife wants it as big as the wall. I think I can make it 200 in, since we're using an entire wall. Or maybe just go with 150in? I'm so undecided. Will it be too much 'work' for the eyes if I get 150in? Or should I just get 120/133 in?


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChiefJC* /forum/post/19583355
> 
> 
> Ok, That explains alot. The light output for the panny was actually better at longer throws than the Epson. The epson isn't as bright as the 200u at that 21' throw, but is brighter from throws of >16.9'. Im sure you already know this so the below is for the good of the forum, and anyone currently planing there PJ install and throw distances, screen size etc.
> 
> 
> The 8350 is a pretty bright PJ, but that brightness is only usable if placed within +%10 of its median zoom or closer. Also to be considered is that throws over 16.9 Ft really start to diminish the FL's reguardless of zoom used.
> 
> 
> A few examples are below, keep in mind these fl outputs are based on Maximum Light output modes(for 8350 its Dynamic in Normal power consumption) also to consider is that the 8350 boasts 2000 ANSI, but was actaully tested to be quit less thus the fl numbers below a little higher than they actaully really are. I know my slightly calibrated Dynamic mode in Normal only scored in the mid 1200's which is signifigantly less than 2000....
> 
> 
> 106" 1.2 gain screen, 13' throw = 23fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 13.5' throw = 21fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 16' throw = 17fl
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 17.5' throw = 14
> 
> 120" 1.2 gain screen, 21' throw = 12fl
> 
> 
> So you can see, the curve from ~16' and further is pretty sharp. In a review it was tested as decreasing over %40 from mid zoom to almost max. And the results they came up with were based on the "Dynamic" brightest mode again
> 
> 
> Zoom out: 1640
> 
> Mid-zoom: 1378
> 
> Zoom in: 987
> 
> 
> If you convert those numbers over to the cinema mode it gets real ugly fast.
> 
> 
> Zoom out 546
> 
> Mid-zoom 463
> 
> Zoom in: 330




Sorry for the dumb question but what is fl?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20671834
> 
> 
> Sorry for the dumb question but what is fl?



Foot lamberts. Google it.


----------



## Mainiac

So last Saturday my 10 year old 65" Mits rear projection TV died 10 hours into my Lord of the Rings EE Blu-ray marathon. I'd been thinking of replacing it with a projector for the past few months so out I went to Best Buy and grabbed the Epson 8350. I was blown away by it just projecting the image on my eggshell colored wall.


This is my first projector and I've read through this thread some and have a couple questions:


First, I'm debating where to mount the projector. My options are basically at about 12' and 20'. My room is about 22x12x7.5. I have two rows of seating, the first being three chairs and the second being a couch sitting on an 8" riser. 12' would put the projector above the middle seat in the first row. The next six feet are taken up by the couch area and my overhead lighting so anything before 18' is out and 20' would put it 6 inches or so from the back wall. I plan on having an image between 110" and 120".


What are the advantages and disadvantages of mounting the projector at the two different distances?


Second, I debated painting the wall grayish versus using a screen, but there are imperfections in the wall that show up in the image especially during bright scenes so I will go with a screen. Unfortunately I have a pipe covered by a sauna tube which extends four inches below the ceiling through the front wall so I have to mount any screen below that in order to center it on my wall. Figuring in the screen casing (assuming I go pull down versus fixed) I probably will be projecting the image around 10" below the ceiling which makes it a little challenging since it's only 7.5' high but I think I can mange. Based on where I mount the projector at either 12' or 20' is there a specific gain I should look for in the screen I purchase and/or other factors?


Just an FYI, the room is light controlled. I have two windows and cover them with blackout fabric with minimal light leakage.


Update: After further research I guess I technically don't have a light controlled room as my suspended ceiling is white tile and my walls are eggshell colored so they reflect a lot of light. I guess this needs to be taken into consideration. It's possible I may try and paint the walls darker such as a deep red or something and paint the ceiling tiles black, but I don't imagine I'll get around to it soon.


Any advice appreciated, thanks!


----------



## gsmollin

I have had a Logitech Harmony remote for about 5 years, and control all of my HT equipment with it. The Epson 8350 has been giving me some trouble controlling the HDMI1 and HDMI2 inputs as part of the activity routines. The 8350 always powers-on, but ignores the HDMI1 or HDMI2 command that follows the power-on command. I added a one second delay to the end of the activities, followed by another command to select HDMI1 or HDMI2, but the 8350 ignores these commands. After the lamp is lit, and I can see the PJ is not connected correctly, I can push the DEVICES button, then select PROJECTOR, and then send another HDMI1 or 2 command with the Harmony remote, and it will respond.


Additionally, after I start an activity thet needs, say, HDMI1, I can start another activity that needs HDMI2, and the 8350 responds to the command. HDMI1 can be selected again with a change of activity. Only at power-on does the 8350 have this problem.


Does anybody have any experience with this?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Youngster* /forum/post/20667426
> 
> 
> MM, you make a compelling case. However, I failed to mention that my ceiling is slanted at about 8 degrees. Is there a solution to this?




Send me a PM (...or post...) a image of your location.


8 Degrees is not very much. You could construct a Canted Wedge that serves as a level Base.


I get around such idiosyncrasies easily enough when I run into them, but that's me...


Give me today to search out a adjustable cantilevered Mount solution that has a 1.5" threaded Hole. I already know of one...but it's overpriced.


Hang tight though...there are other's available.


*And here is one of the best.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/CMA395*



When the one above is completely installed, painted to match the Ceiling, and outfitted with a 1.5" Drop tube down to the dedicated Chief RPA 160 Mount * http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPA168 *;



the use of this one:
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Univ.../dp/B000TUDOQ8 

....becomes a real buzz kill....looks-wise.


And best of all, the suggested Combo provides a extremely rigid and secure mounting solution. Does it cost more? Yes. But worth every penny, considering the 8350 comes in at such a steal. Call Projector People and price the bundle.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mainiac* /forum/post/20674733
> 
> 
> So last Saturday my 10 year old 65" Mits rear projection TV died 10 hours into my Lord of the Rings EE Blu-ray marathon. I'd been thinking of replacing it with a projector for the past few months so out I went to Best Buy and grabbed the Epson 8350. I was blown away by it just projecting the image on my eggshell colored wall.
> 
> 
> This is my first projector and I've read through this thread some and have a couple questions:
> 
> 
> First, I'm debating where to mount the projector. My options are basically at about 12' and 20'. My room is about 22x12x7.5. I have two rows of seating, the first being three chairs and the second being a couch sitting on an 8" riser. 12' would put the projector above the middle seat in the first row. The next six feet are taken up by the couch area and my overhead lighting so anything before 18' is out and 20' would put it 6 inches or so from the back wall. I plan on having an image between 110" and 120".
> 
> 
> What are the advantages and disadvantages of mounting the projector at the two different distances?
> 
> 
> Second, I debated painting the wall grayish versus using a screen, but there are imperfections in the wall that show up in the image especially during bright scenes so I will go with a screen. Unfortunately I have a pipe covered by a sauna tube which extends four inches below the ceiling through the front wall so I have to mount any screen below that in order to center it on my wall. Figuring in the screen casing (assuming I go pull down versus fixed) I probably will be projecting the image around 10" below the ceiling which makes it a little challenging since it's only 7.5' high but I think I can mange. Based on where I mount the projector at either 12' or 20' is there a specific gain I should look for in the screen I purchase and/or other factors?
> 
> 
> Just an FYI, the room is light controlled. I have two windows and cover them with blackout fabric with minimal light leakage.
> 
> 
> Update: After further research I guess I technically don't have a light controlled room as my suspended ceiling is white tile and my walls are eggshell colored so they reflect a lot of light. I guess this needs to be taken into consideration. It's possible I may try and paint the walls darker such as a deep red or something and paint the ceiling tiles black, but I don't imagine I'll get around to it soon.
> 
> 
> Any advice appreciated, thanks!



My advise is to try both positions temporarily. At 110 inches, I think a gray screen will be too dark. Use a screen with gain greater than or equal to one. The 12' position will be brighter than the 20', but the fan will be noisier just above the seating position. The focus at the 20' position will be sharper than the 12'. The ultimate problem may be that the heads in the front seats cast shadows on the screen, with the low ceiling, when the PJ is at 20'.


----------



## alan_ct

Any opinions on how the 8350 would stack up to an RS1? New Epson about the same price as an used RS1...Al


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alan_ct* /forum/post/20677698
> 
> 
> Any opinions on how the 8350 would stack up to an RS1? New Epson about the same price as an used RS1...Al



Yup not a fair comparison. The Epson will give you a piece of mind with the 2 year warranty. Other than that, a RS1 with no issues will surpass it in every aspect besides brightness. The Epson is the brighter projector uncalibrated.


----------



## bjmsam

You might be interested in this thread (found via search ).


----------



## CTShooter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20674794
> 
> 
> I have had a Logitech Harmony remote for about 5 years, and control all of my HT equipment with it. The Epson 8350 has been giving me some trouble controlling the HDMI1 and HDMI2 inputs as part of the activity routines. The 8350 always powers-on, but ignores the HDMI1 or HDMI2 command that follows the power-on command. I added a one second delay to the end of the activities, followed by another command to select HDMI1 or HDMI2, but the 8350 ignores these commands. After the lamp is lit, and I can see the PJ is not connected correctly, I can push the DEVICES button, then select PROJECTOR, and then send another HDMI1 or 2 command with the Harmony remote, and it will respond.
> 
> 
> Additionally, after I start an activity thet needs, say, HDMI1, I can start another activity that needs HDMI2, and the 8350 responds to the command. HDMI1 can be selected again with a change of activity. Only at power-on does the 8350 have this problem.
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this?



I had the same issue - i think it is because of the amount of time the projector takes to warm up and except a new command. I resolved the issue by adding a pause inbetween turning the pj on and then changing the input signal - it was like a 30 second delay...I do not recall the exact amount because now everything goes through a switch and i only use HDMI 1.


But if you put about a 30 second delay at the end of the macro and then do the input change you should be ok...only problem is it will seem like an entirity when your waiting.


----------



## nortrix

So I have had mine for about 4 weeks now. It has been great. Lights on or off it is great. Ref BlueRays Batman and Startrek are great. The fan is super quiet. The computer fan is louder. The Iris is noisy on high speed. I do not have a HD TV box yet, so no tv on Dynamic setting.I have noticed DVD lines when scenes are switching. but that is probably the player, just noticed it, could be a setting. Everything is going through the reciever out to the projector including PC thru HDMI.


Great Projector


----------



## HT_Dean

For those interested in mounts...I am in the process of installing this one which claims to fit the 8350...I went with a silver color to match the silver two tone color of the projector.

http://www.mountdirect.com/ProductDe...roductCode=NPL 


It's going well so far. I have got the top plate attached to the ceiling and I am ready to mount the projector. I decided to order their extension pipe. I like that this mount uses the standard 1.5" threaded pipe. It gives you the option of going down to HD or Lowes and having them thread a pipe to your specified length which costs under 10 bucks. I ordered their extension because I am lazy and I like that it adjusts. I also have a ceiling fan to deal with. I read earlier where somebody had a mount that adjusted by using a pressure screw inside the tube which would personally make me nervous. It sounded like it worked ok though so that's good...I liked that this one had a locking screw when adjusting the height


here's the extension i bought. http://www.mountdirect.com/NPL_Exten.../npl_ext_v.htm 


I will try to post some pics when I get the chance and let you know how it works. BTW for those that have a slanted roof to deal with this one has an attachment for that as well....


slanted roof attachment.... http://www.mountdirect.com/Vaulted_C...pter_p/vca.htm


----------



## alan_ct




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjmsam* /forum/post/20677908
> 
> 
> You might be interested in this thread (found via search ).



Thanks! Now Im more confused!!! RS1 has got to be WAAAAY better than my Panny AX-200U with 1950 hours on it!!!! Al


----------



## jays_on




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20606970
> 
> 
> :-( I guess I can also be added to the list of people having issues with their Epson 8350.
> 
> 
> As soon as my pj hit the 500 hours mark, I started having the following issues:
> 
> 
> - lower left of the screen is out of focus while the rest of the screen is in focus
> 
> - bottom of the screen has a large, half moon shaped, reddish/pink tint. It is clearly visible on light/white backgrounds
> 
> - green circular blob in upper right of the screen. Clearly visible on black/dark backgrounds
> 
> - *intermittent brightness fluctuations even though auto iris is OFF. Noticed it mostly on Cinema mode. It resembles something like a flickering or auto iris.
> *
> 
> Besides the issues listed above, the pj works wonderfully. It's odd that it all started as soon as it hit the 500 hours mark.
> 
> 
> I will continue to use it as-is but I now know that I will be joining the Epson customer service queue very soon. :-(



I have started having the "*intermittent brightness fluctuations even though auto iris is OFF*" issue. Did you ever call epson about this? Did you ever find a solution? Needless to say it is REALLY annoying! I think I'm around 800hrs in. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Thanks!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have started having the "intermittent brightness fluctuations even though auto iris is OFF" issue. Did you ever call epson about this? Did you ever find a solution? Needless to say it is REALLY annoying! I think I'm around 800hrs in. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Thanks!



I never called Epson because honestly, these issues are no factor under 99% of my viewing. The other 1% is when I'm deliberately looking for the issues by running a blank image or an all white image. As for the flickering, I usually see it while on Cinema/ECO mode. I switched it to Cinema/Normal mode and the flickering is gone. Once again, not a deal breaker for me. I will continue to use the pj as long as I can before starting an exchange process with Epson.


----------



## lemansfanatic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20671044
> 
> 
> So what do you say to epson to get the free bulb if there's nothing wrong with it? I sure will like to take advantage of this in 2 years.



I think reasoning is getting in your way here. Want me to come over right before your two year free bulb replacement and shake the heck out of your old bulb? We could play catch with it or something


----------



## jays_on

Thanks for the quick reply ERuiz. I'm thinking the same thing, I'll get it taken care of before my warranty's out unless something drastic happens between now and then. Love this thing though, it's changed my life! lol.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/20683380
> 
> 
> I never called Epson because honestly, these issues are no factor under 99% of my viewing. The other 1% is when I'm deliberately looking for the issues by running a blank image or an all white image. As for the flickering, I usually see it while on Cinema/ECO mode. I switched it to Cinema/Normal mode and the flickering is gone. Once again, not a deal breaker for me. I will continue to use the pj as long as I can before starting an exchange process with Epson.


----------



## tommyv2

I know that I've complained about the 8350 enough on this thread for a lifetime. After 16 (yes, you read that right) exchanges and unable to find a single decent unit (green lines on side mostly, awful convergence), Epson has worked with me on a buy-out for this unit. Their customer service department is amazing - it's a shame the unit has so many flaws.


I will definitely buy another Epson eventually, but I'm staying far, far away from the 8350 line and whatever its replacement is in the fall. Those of you either have or claim you have perfect units, hold onto them! Hope you don't have any issues, because you will likely not be happy with the replacement!


----------



## Santi8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jays_on* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have started having the "intermittent brightness fluctuations even though auto iris is OFF" issue. Did you ever call epson about this? Did you ever find a solution? Needless to say it is REALLY annoying! I think I'm around 800hrs in. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Thanks!



I had this problem at 600 hours. I noticed it when playing tiger woods. It usually means the bulb is about to fail, but someone told me to switch to normal mode for a few hours then back to Eco and so far that has worked for me...


----------



## MississippiMan

Better yet, those of you considering getting a 8350, or any Epson should do so without having any undue concerns, if not indeed any hesitations.


Over the last 30 days I personal took possession of 2 more 8350s, a 9350..and a 8700, and not a one of them has any issue whatsoever.


Of course I sympathize with those who have had issues, just as I applaud Epson for willingly addressing those issues, repeatedly for some. Those people do of course have every right to express their concerns as well as consternation.


But let's not have any blanket condemnations...OK?


----------



## nywst

How is this screen with 8350?


Elite Spectrum Series?

viewing distance is 12-14 feet, 100" or 120"? mainly for movie watching.


thanks a lot!


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20684710
> 
> 
> I know that I've complained about the 8350 enough on this thread for a lifetime. After 16 (yes, you read that right) exchanges and unable to find a single decent unit (green lines on side mostly, awful convergence), Epson has worked with me on a buy-out for this unit. Their customer service department is amazing - it's a shame the unit has so many flaws.
> 
> 
> I will definitely buy another Epson eventually, but I'm staying far, far away from the 8350 line and whatever its replacement is in the fall. Those of you either have or claim you have perfect units, hold onto them! Hope you don't have any issues, because you will likely not be happy with the replacement!



When you had to get your 8350 replaced, did you have to send your current unit in first before they sent you the replacement? It looks like I've also got the green line/convergence issue (left side of screen is blurry when right side of screen in sharp focus, and can't really get the left side IN focus no matter what) issue, and I don't really want to be without a TV for a week or two round trip...especially if it looks like it's going to have to happen more than once as I'm out of the 90 day period, and doesn't that mean I'll start getting refurbs? Also, with each new 8350, did they come with new bulbs, or did they swap in your old one?


----------



## tommyv2

You get the new projector first, and you use that box to send in your old one. After a few months (it varies, up to them), they start sending out refurbs. If there's issues, they'll send you new ones. At one point I had 4 projectors next to each other! So embarrassing at the FedEx depot later... Every projector comes with a new bulb. You don't have to mess with any of that.


Anyone got an 8350 without the green lines on a side? Of the many I've had (new and refurb) I never saw one without it.


KlingonScum, I know what you mean - one side didn't ever seem to focus right. If you had one of those 1:1 pixel mapping text testing images, you'd see that the convergence changes at different parts of the screen. I had several projectors where it was great in the middle, bad everywhere else. This kind of stuff can't really be seen with movies - the stuff that the "believers" keep testing to say the projector is perfect. I test with 1920x1080 bitmaps, with only red, green, blue, white and grey single-pixel-width lines. If everyone did that, they'd see how bad it really is!


Movies are about the worst way to test anything like this. PS3 home screen, with the various text placements is probably great. Dedicated testing images are ideal, as long as you're comfortable being disappointed. You can't unsee the flaws, so don't go looking for them!


----------



## nywst

wow, I am scared by the quality of 8350, might not buy it after all.


----------



## Steve Kinkead

Nywst, My 8350 has no problems. Great picture, CMS, and lens shifting all for under $1500. Highly recommend you get one.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20686153
> 
> 
> You get the new projector first, and you use that box to send in your old one. After a few months (it varies, up to them), they start sending out refurbs. If there's issues, they'll send you new ones. At one point I had 4 projectors next to each other! So embarrassing at the FedEx depot later... Every projector comes with a new bulb. You don't have to mess with any of that.



Whew, that's good to know, anyway. I just noticed tonight - and I hope it's just 'artsy' framing on the show I'm watching - but it appears to be "vignetting" the left side corners a bit; the left top and bottom corners look darker than the rest of the image.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20686153
> 
> 
> Anyone got an 8350 without the green lines on a side? Of the many I've had (new and refurb) I never saw one without it.



If it was just the green line on the side, I wouldn't complain at all; I'd just slide the image a millimeter to the left so it would hit the border of my screen and be for all intents and purposes invisible. But the blurring on the left is bugging me - again, it's not really noticeable when watching a movie, but I do use it periodically with my HTPC for "computer stuff" and the fuzzy fonts on the left side anger me...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20686153
> 
> 
> KlingonScum, I know what you mean - one side didn't ever seem to focus right. If you had one of those 1:1 pixel mapping text testing images, you'd see that the convergence changes at different parts of the screen. I had several projectors where it was great in the middle, bad everywhere else. This kind of stuff can't really be seen with movies - the stuff that the "believers" keep testing to say the projector is perfect. I test with 1920x1080 bitmaps, with only red, green, blue, white and grey single-pixel-width lines. If everyone did that, they'd see how bad it really is!



My AX100u, for all it's other flaws, at least had excellent consistency across the entire width of the image; it did have a very faint "inward lean" of the left side of the image (the top left corner was inset about 1/4" over the bottom left corner while the right side corners were perfectly aligned) that I never could figure out.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/20686153
> 
> 
> Movies are about the worst way to test anything like this. PS3 home screen, with the various text placements is probably great. Dedicated testing images are ideal, as long as you're comfortable being disappointed. You can't unsee the flaws, so don't go looking for them!



I hear that. No, I was going to just live with it as I'm old enough to fully realize "'perfect' is the enemy of 'good enough'" , but the vignetting tonight's got me to the point where I think I'll set up a return (at the very least, I'm at the point where I jump every time I see something I think might be the projector as opposed to the material).


----------



## buddahead




KlingonScum said:


> When you had to get your 8350 replaced, did you have to send your current unit in first before they sent you the replacement? It looks like I've also got the green line/convergence issue (left side of screen is blurry when right side of screen in sharp focus, and can't really get the left side IN focus no matter what) issue, and I don't really want to be without a TV for a week or two round trip...especially if it looks like it's going to have to happen more than once as I'm out of the 90 day period, and doesn't that mean I'll start getting refurbs? Also, with each new 83
> 
> 50, did they come with new bulbs, or did they swap in your old one?[/QU
> 
> 
> I do not post here much anymore due to so many trolls posting.But when I read someone has 16 8350 and can't get one that suit's him I have to post.My first unit was find.I have 3 friends who I help them get a 8350'all were fine and within the specs for a FP.I know their is no perfect FP 'they all have some flaw.But most are good enough to get a great pic for movies games ect.I pity the guy but I highly doubt he has had 16 units.I find the 8350 a excellent FP for the money and this will be my first year I might not upgrade.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Well all this talk about faulty units aside, I just wanted to see how the convergence is on my 8350. I downloaded the AVS calibration software but have yet to calibrate as I have about 16 hours on the ticker. I checked the convergence with the C1 and C2 patterns from the AVS calibration software and was not jumping up and down with what I saw. I did not figure it would change but decided to wait until my screen arrived since the wall was OK but not cutting it.


So my 120" Elite screen arrived today and up it went. Another check and yep, still there, like a screen was going to change that. Anyway what I am seeing looks like a three pixel vertical line, redish green on the left, yellow in the middle, and blue one right. All the way down the screen on the line. If I understand the instructions correctly there is only supposed to be a one pixel wide line that looks white. Is that correct? Also the horizontal lines look to be two pixels wide and of two different colors, but less noticeable. All of the lines look pretty good until you get close to the screen and you can see what is going on.


Now having said all of that, I did not buy the PJ to look at white single pixel lines on the screen or surf the web because that is not my purpose for the PJ. I will occasionally watch TV with it and mostly movies on BD or an occasional oldie DVD that I do not care to collect on BD. I can say that out of the box the 8350 has a great picture for my lame 1080i cable TV viewing, and yes there is a difference depending on the channel selected cause some suck. I am talking HD channels. Now BDs kick butt on the PJ and I have no complaints.


However, as I was typing this, I am watching SCIHD cable. The picture looks great from the HTPC, but when I walk up to the white text in the bottom right of the screen I can see the misconvergence with the blue off the right side of the white text and red on the left. The text is several pixels wide so I see the colors mentioned on the left and right most pixel set making up the letters.


OK, this is getting long because I wanted to capture my observations both for folks considering this unit, and so folks who know more about this than me can understand what I am seeing and perhaps comment. So I am happy with the picture at viewing distance but when I walk up to the screen and see the misconvergence I am not happy. Now, not having been a member here I would have been fine with the unit, but I know something is a bit off. I can simply take the unit back to Gregg and exchange it but it exhibits no other problems. I may get a worse one. As good as the picture looks at viewing distance, I wonder if it would be better without the misconvergence I now know it has. So is my misconvergence unacceptable for these LCD units or is that kind of performance reserved for the 8700? I am a DLP fan and this is my first LCD unit. I love the DLP pop but the RBE can be a bear, none on the Epson oviously. Very good picture but wondering how much the convergence is hurting. Anybody else looked at the AVS convergence screens with this unit? Thanks and sorry for the wind but I have a short time remaining for an in store exchange.


Edit: I am very impressed with this PJ so far. I have it for its' versatility. That lens shift rocks, but is kinda flimsy. You have to play with it because it kinda flops around. Set it and forget it.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20692695
> 
> 
> However, as I was typing this, I am watching SCIHD cable. The picture looks great from the HTPC, but when I walk up to the white text in the bottom right of the screen I can see the misconvergence with the blue off the right side of the white text and red on the left. The text is several pixels wide so I see the colors mentioned on the left and right most pixel set making up the letters.



Just out of curiosity - could you pull up a full screen document, black text on white background, large font - and see if the misconvergence is consistent across the entire width of the screen?


The right side of mine looks sharp as a tack; it's not until you hit midscreen and move left that you start seeing the misconvergence; it's almost like the LCD panels are aligned perfectly at the right edges within their mounting and diverge so slightly on the left edge.


I'm still debating contacting Epson and having them send out a replacement...*sigh*...I may just decide "if the first replacement is the same as my current one, I'll just live with it.


----------



## scoto

i just purchased an 8350 but am having signal dropouts (and occasional colored snow).....I wired my basement with an hdmi input on my ceiling as a last minute decision when I had my basement done so I used 3 separate hdmi cables linked together (it was all I had!!)


The strange thing is I had an Optoma HD20 for a few weeks before the 8350 (I returned it because of the rainbow effect) and using the same connection, I never had a dropout.


It is nearly impossible to rewire so any suggestions?


Does the 8350 need a stronger signal than the HD20?


Is there some type of signal amplifier that would fix it?


(I am using an hdmi switcher that I bought from Monoprice a couple of years ago) to swich between my HDPVR, bluray, HDDVD and PS3)


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum* /forum/post/20695885
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity - could you pull up a full screen document, black text on white background, large font - and see if the misconvergence is consistent across the entire width of the screen?
> 
> 
> The right side of mine looks sharp as a tack; it's not until you hit midscreen and move left that you start seeing the misconvergence; it's almost like the LCD panels are aligned perfectly at the right edges within their mounting and diverge so slightly on the left edge.



Well I just looked at a full screen PDF of an owners manual at 400%, so about 1/4 of the page on a full screen. I can say that my misconvergence is uniform across the entire screen. It looks to be a uniform 1 pixel off and I had to get within about 2 feet of the 120" screen to see it. Anything back from that and I cannot see it. So based on my research while awaiting a response to my question I think my unit is acceptable to me so far though my picky arse would prefer to see no convergence at all.


How large of a font are you talking about? I may play with this a bit more.


Are you talking about something like the below pic because that is bad and mine is not anywhere close to that:

http://www.lowtek.ca/roo/wp-content/...03/avsbad1.jpg 


My misconvergence looks more similar to this picture taken from Roos View?? Anyway mine is uniform like that but probably a tad better Across the board:


http://www.lowtek.ca/roo/wp-content/...3/100_4523.JPG


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scoto* /forum/post/20696466
> 
> 
> i just purchased an 8350 but am having signal dropouts (and occasional colored snow).....I wired my basement with an hdmi input on my ceiling as a last minute decision when I had my basement done so I used 3 separate hdmi cables linked together (it was all I had!!)
> 
> 
> The strange thing is I had an Optoma HD20 for a few weeks before the 8350 (I returned it because of the rainbow effect) and using the same connection, I never had a dropout.
> 
> 
> It is nearly impossible to rewire so any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Does the 8350 need a stronger signal than the HD20?
> 
> 
> Is there some type of signal amplifier that would fix it?
> 
> 
> (I am using an hdmi switcher that I bought from Monoprice a couple of years ago) to swich between my HDPVR, bluray, HDDVD and PS3)



How long is the run to the projector and what is the brand/gauge of the HDMI cable used?


----------



## scoto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20697546
> 
> 
> How long is the run to the projector and what is the brand/gauge of the HDMI cable used?



The run is 18 feet (3 6 foot cables connected together)

I bought the cables from monoprice...not sure of the gauge...sorry


----------



## boyopo

Very good PJ


----------



## Coopx

where do you guys get your replacement bulb?


----------



## akakillroy

I have had my 8350 for about 3 Months now, and tonight a buddy and I watched Harry Potter ATDH and I noticed that the left half of the image looked more blue green than the right half, and sure enough my buddy noticed the same thing. Now mind you the Harry Potter movies are kinda dark, but you can clearly see the difference it is almost lost the red color on the left half.


So I tried an experiment I found some JPG's with a lot of white in them and sure enough the left side of the image gradually gets darker? It is not pure white light left right half is. Anyone know what this might be?


I will try to take some stills tomorrow and post.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scoto* /forum/post/20697689
> 
> 
> The run is 18 feet (3 6 foot cables connected together)
> 
> I bought the cables from monoprice...not sure of the gauge...sorry



If rewiring is definitely impossible, then you can try the $15 HDMI extender from Monoprice. Just search for "hdmi extender" on their website.


Out of curiousity, if you pull the cable from one end, with the rest of it follow? If so, than replacing the wire with a longer one with a thicker gauge will be a snap. Currently, you have a longer run with a cable that has 2 unnecessary connections... you're open for things to go wrong.


----------



## Jomanscool2

Hi all - I just got my Epson 8350 in yesterday, and am looking for some help getting a mount setup. I am replacing an Infocus Screenplay 5700, which I had suspended on what I believe is a Peerless mount (I didn't install that projector). The mount appears to use the same rotate to lock in method as their current PJF2 .


The reason I am asking for help choosing a mount is that we already have the circular peerless baseplate with about 1" of 1.5" threaded pipe coming out of it installed in the ceiling, and I'd prefer not to install a new baseplate. At the same time, the mount must clear a supporting beam 5" below the ceiling.


Now, I believe I could go just continue with the peerless mount and get a new universal baseplate which should fit the 8350, but I was never very happy with the stability of the peerless on the SP5700, and feel it might just be worse on the 8350 with a universal plate.


Yet if I were to go with Chief and get the RPA-168 I believe I would have to pick up some 1.5" threaded coupler and extension to drop the pipe down another 4" or so so it can thread into the RPA (it seems that's how it works?).


Does anyone have any recommendations on the matter? Also, preferred places to order the mounts from would be appreciated - hoping to get this whole theater remodel done before the next weekend.


Thanks!


----------



## mjg100

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tommyv2* 
You get the new projector first, and you use that box to send in your old one. After a few months (it varies, up to them), they start sending out refurbs. If there's issues, they'll send you new ones. At one point I had 4 projectors next to each other! So embarrassing at the FedEx depot later... Every projector comes with a new bulb. You don't have to mess with any of that.


Anyone got an 8350 without the green lines on a side? Of the many I've had (new and refurb) I never saw one without it.


KlingonScum, I know what you mean - one side didn't ever seem to focus right. If you had one of those 1:1 pixel mapping text testing images, you'd see that the convergence changes at different parts of the screen. I had several projectors where it was great in the middle, bad everywhere else. This kind of stuff can't really be seen with movies - the stuff that the "believers" keep testing to say the projector is perfect. I test with 1920x1080 bitmaps, with only red, green, blue, white and grey single-pixel-width lines. If everyone did that, they'd see how bad it really is!


Movies are about the worst way to test anything like this. PS3 home screen, with the various text placements is probably great. Dedicated testing images are ideal, as long as you're comfortable being disappointed. You can't unsee the flaws, so don't go looking for them!
If you use an HTPC, then you know exactly how good or bad your lens and convergence is. A lot of LCD projectors do not shine when used in this capacity.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tommyv2* 
This kind of stuff can't really be seen with movies - the stuff that the "believers" keep testing to say the projector is perfect. I test with 1920x1080 bitmaps, with only red, green, blue, white and grey single-pixel-width lines. If everyone did that, they'd see how bad it really is!


Movies are about the worst way to test anything like this. PS3 home screen, with the various text placements is probably great. Dedicated testing images are ideal, as long as you're comfortable being disappointed. You can't unsee the flaws, so don't go looking for them!
While I am not doing backflips over my convergence tests, I am not totally displeased either. I was curious about your bitmap images. Is there a link to those or did you make them yourself. While I do not focus on single pixel convergence tests for my viewing, I am curious how much this impacts the actual viewing image for movies and TV watching. I suppose I would need to get a baseline to compare to. Of course if your units had a great picture for viewing content and you became obsessed with convergence issues that could not be seen under normal viewing then perhaps I am not sure how this would help me or others. I am always willing to test something for the greater cause.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jomanscool2* /forum/post/20702883
> 
> 
> Hi all - I just got my Epson 8350 in yesterday, and am looking for some help getting a mount setup. I am replacing an Infocus Screenplay 5700, which I had suspended on what I believe is a Peerless mount (I didn't install that projector). The mount appears to use the same rotate to lock in method as their current PJF2 .



I hate that mount...and the Gimbal Ball adjustment is the singular most undependable design any expensive Mount has. Yeech.)



> Quote:
> The reason I am asking for help choosing a mount is that we already have the circular peerless baseplate with about 1" of 1.5" threaded pipe coming out of it installed in the ceiling, and I'd prefer not to install a new baseplate. At the same time, the mount must clear a supporting beam 5" below the ceiling.
> 
> 
> Now, I believe I could go just continue with the peerless mount and get a new universal baseplate which should fit the 8350, but I was never very happy with the stability of the peerless on the SP5700, and feel it might just be worse on the 8350 with a universal plate.



It could never get any better...only worse. Once you loosen the Peerless mount's Gimbal Ball, the Set Screw never goes in right from then on. Yeech.



> Quote:
> Yet if I were to go with Chief and get the RPA-168 I believe I would have to pick up some 1.5" threaded coupler and extension to drop the pipe down another 4" or so so it can thread into the RPA (it seems that's how it works?).
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations on the matter? Also, preferred places to order the mounts from would be appreciated - hoping to get this whole theater remodel done before the next weekend.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Home Depot sells 2" - 3" - 4" - 6" Threaded 1.5" Steel "Nipples". You should not need any "Coupling" as the Nipple should simply screw into the Ceiling Plate and the RPA Mount. Scrape off the UPC Tag, lightly sand the metal and it will paint up nicely in whatever color you choose. (...but tape off 1" of the Threads before painting...)


If you get the Chief RPA 168 *(...and you should, as you will become a stanch advocate of it afterward...)* order it from Projector People. It should cost about $138.00


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20704321
> 
> 
> . Of course if your units had a great picture for viewing content and you became obsessed with convergence issues that could not be seen under normal viewing then perhaps I am not sure how this would help me or others.



Indeed. Being overly Anal about something that does not affect normal performance seems to be the status quo for the some few who simply must try to find something wrong with anything that comes along with the degree of acceptance and popularity that the 8350 has.


And please...will everyone stop referring to singular vertical lines as having anything to do with convergence??? !!!


----------



## Jomanscool2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20704715
> 
> 
> I hate that mount...and the Gimbal Ball adjustment is the singular most undependable design any expensive Mount has. Yeech.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It could never get any better...only worse. Once you loosen the Peerless mount's Gimbal Ball, the Set Screw never goes in right from then on. Yeech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home Depot sells 2" - 3" - 4" - 6" Threaded 1.5" Steel "Nipples". You should not need any "Coupling" as the Nipple should simply screw into the Ceiling Plate and the RPA Mount. Scrape off the UPC Tag, lightly sand the metal and it will paint up nicely in whatever color you choose. (...but tape off 1" of the Threads before painting...)
> 
> 
> If you get the Chief RPA 168 *(...and you should, as you will become a stanch advocate of it afterward...)* order it from Projector People. It should cost about $138.00



Only problem with the 'nipple' (unless it is something else, google seems it is just a short, threaded pipe) is the existing nipple appears to be attached to the plate by something only accessible by removing the plate from the wall, which defeats my whole post! I'll see if I can mess with it at all tomorrow. Here is a picture from earlier today: ​ You can kinda see a tab sticking through the hole on the left, that appears to be attached to the pipe.


Also, does PP actually carry the RPA-168? Can't find it on their website, only a phone order item? Anywhere else recommended?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jomanscool2* /forum/post/20704792
> 
> 
> Only problem with the 'nipple' (unless it is something else, google seems it is just a short, threaded pipe) is the existing nipple appears to be attached to the plate by something only accessible by removing the plate from the wall, which defeats my whole post! I'll see if I can mess with it at all tomorrow. Here is a picture from earlier today: ​ You can kinda see a tab sticking through the hole on the left, that appears to be attached to the pipe.
> 
> 
> Also, does PP actually carry the RPA-168? Can't find it on their website, only a phone order item? Anywhere else recommended?



It is not though. That Tab is there to secure a Grommet that inserts into the hole.

Just use a Channel Lock Wrench and the exiting 2" Nipple will back tight out.


As for the RPA168, sometimes they have stock...but it is a "phone in" item. If they do not have one, they simply have Chief drop ship it to your address.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/20507274
> 
> 
> Using Expanded HDMI, rather than decrease "bright" I've created a custom gamma curve, which starts below the diagonal "guide line" on the graph. The defaults leave a lot of available space both at the high and low ends.
> 
> 
> Looks good. I'm having fits trying to use my I1 and HCFR. If I slavishly follow "the numbers" it recommends... Let's just say I've become an authority on dialing in a putrid image!
> 
> 
> Most of my attempts started in Natural. Starting in Cinema mode (just for a change of scenery) I got more realistic results if I dropped main-menu saturation to minus 25.
> 
> 
> I thought I had a dead I1. I got a a second one which yielded the same result.



SonyC,

How is your calibration going? During my calibrations, I left the main-menu saturation at 0 and instead used the brightness settings in the RBGCMY menu which allows individual control over each color. The problem with main-menu saturation control, is it makes the same adjustment to red, green, and blue.


I'm also starting in Cinema mode. My biggest problem is getting xyY set correctly for green. I've moved the hue, saturation, and brightness controls to their limits, but green is still way off.


There is a detailed info on calibrating Epson projectors in this thread:
Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) 

I believe the Epson 8350 design evolved from the UB series, so much of the info should be relevant to us. Tonight, I'll try calibrating to the 75% saturation levels instead of 100% to see if I can get green dialed in.


Is anyone else calibrating their 8350 using HCFR? The 8350 has a complete color management system (CMS) and the HCFR software and the AVSHD testpatterns are free to download. An EyeOneLT colormeter cost about $115 on Amazon.

GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES


----------



## vullcan

the eyeoneLT was $150 but the eyeone 2 or whatever it was called was around $115... is the "2" version better?


----------



## Jomanscool2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20705154
> 
> 
> It is not though. That Tab is there to secure a Grommet that inserts into the hole.
> 
> Just use a Channel Lock Wrench and the exiting 2" Nipple will back tight out.
> 
> 
> As for the RPA168, sometimes they have stock...but it is a "phone in" item. If they do not have one, they simply have Chief drop ship it to your address.



First of all, just wanted to say thank you. I just got off of the phone with PP and they are ordering it from Chief for me, should be here Friday for a total of $200 with 3 day air. (178 for the mount with a custom plate)


Yesterday, I grabbed a pair of pliers and was able to get the existing nipple out of the mount, just as you had said. Now all that's left is to grab a new nipple from home depot, and then wait for everything to arrive (well, besides figured out what the largest subwoofer I can get away with without the lady killing me is).


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/20706717
> 
> 
> the eyeoneLT was $150 but the eyeone 2 or whatever it was called was around $115... is the "2" version better?



The Eye-one 2 sensor is identical to the Eye-one LT. The Eye-one 2 includes additional software which you will not need since you will be using HFCR. So, either sensor will work, just buy the least expensive one.

Eye-one LT for $129


----------



## HT_Dean

Chief sounds like a winner all the way around on mounts...for an alternative however I used the NPL mount from mountdirect. I installed it over the weekend and had no fitting problems etc. I also ordered a NPL pipe they had as an accessory to adjust height as I have a ceiling fan to deal with. Of course you don't have to do this as you can just go get the pipe length of choice at HD, Lowes....


If anybody is interested in going this route I would recommend..not near as expensive as the chief mount...I can post some pics if it is helpful for anyone...

http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_Dean* /forum/post/20709391
> 
> 
> Chief sounds like a winner all the way around on mounts...for an alternative however I used the NPL mount from mountdirect. I installed it over the weekend and had no fitting problems etc. I also ordered a NPL pipe they had as an accessory to adjust height as I have a ceiling fan to deal with. Of course you don't have to do this as you can just go get the pipe length of choice at HD, Lowes....
> 
> 
> If anybody is interested in going this route I would recommend..not near as expensive as the chief mount...I can post some pics if it is helpful for anyone...
> 
> http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm



Can you post some pics? Did you get the black or white one? If I get the white one and go get the gas pipe at hardware store, do they have white? Or you have to buy it and paint it? I have not been to the hardware store to check but i'm thinking the gas pipes are black.


On another note .. do not buy this from amazon ...

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Univ...1020212&sr=1-1 



It does not work with the 8350. Not sure how some of the post in there were able to make it work. I wasted my time and returning the product.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20710512
> 
> 
> On another note .. do not buy this from amazon ...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Univ...1020212&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> 
> It does not work with the 8350. Not sure how some of the post in there were able to make it work. I wasted my time and returning the product.



Um... I got the exact same mount, just black instead of white:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TUDOQ8 


And it works fine for my 8350. I used this configuration (4th picture from the left):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-me...e=UTF8&index=0 


I agree that if you try to use it in an X configuration, it won't work because the mounting holes on the 8350 are farther apart than you can stretch the brackets (that's the case for most generic mounts and this projector, unfortunately) - however, in the Y configuration where you use the back two screw mounts and the front middle one - and making sure you use the 3 longest brackets that come with it - it works fine. I didn't need to drill any holes or dremel anything, period - which is good because as far as that sort of thing goes, I'd probably have cut my foot off.


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20696530
> 
> 
> How large of a font are you talking about? I may play with this a bit more.



I figured about a 24pt font. The way I did it was I did a Google image search for "Ross Martin" and then examined the black & white thumbnail photos that came up.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20696530
> 
> 
> Are you talking about something like the below pic because that is bad and mine is not anywhere close to that:
> 
> http://www.lowtek.ca/roo/wp-content/...03/avsbad1.jpg



No, no - mine's not that bad either or I wouldn't be sitting here debating whether to return it or not...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20696530
> 
> 
> My misconvergence looks more similar to this picture taken from Roos View?? Anyway mine is uniform like that but probably a tad better Across the board:
> 
> http://www.lowtek.ca/roo/wp-content/...3/100_4523.JPG



Mine's fairly similar to that, but not consistent across the screen - the right hand side is sharp, and it starts to manifest about halfway across, to about the same as that link on the far left side.


If I can figure out how to post a photo up here, I'll try to shoot a couple demonstration photos this week...


----------



## HT_Dean




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20710512
> 
> 
> Can you post some pics? Did you get the black or white one? If I get the white one and go get the gas pipe at hardware store, do they have white? Or you have to buy it and paint it? I have not been to the hardware store to check but i'm thinking the gas pipes are black.
> 
> 
> On another note .. do not buy this from amazon ...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Univ...1020212&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> 
> It does not work with the 8350. Not sure how some of the post in there were able to make it work. I wasted my time and returning the product.



I will post some pics tonight for you.


I debated for a while on what color to get. My ceiling is dark. I actually went with the silver which looks good to me as the projector has some silver coloring on it.


If you decide to go to the home improvement store and the color doesn't match I wouldn't fret. Go by the paint color you want, paint it, stick it out in the sun to dry and you will have your matching pipe










I can attest this mount( http://www.mountdirect.com/ProductDe...roductCode=NPL ) fit my 8350 fine as I just mounted this sucker over the weekend...you can see for yourself when i get the pics loaded if you want to make sure before you pull the trigger...it has several configurations for different projectors. I was leery but the website said it was compatable. I used the configuration that used the extension arms and it worked fine...It uses four out of the five threaded mount holes in the configuration I used...


BTW - KlingonScum...glad you were able to figure out a solution to that mount....looks solid from the picture you posted..


now on to finishing my fixed screen...going 120"....building it from scratch from here...so far so good... http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen


----------



## HT_Dean




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_Dean* /forum/post/20711001
> 
> 
> I will post some pics tonight for you.
> 
> 
> I debated for a while on what color to get. My ceiling is dark. I actually went with the silver which looks good to me as the projector has some silver coloring on it.
> 
> 
> If you decide to go to the home improvement store and the color doesn't match I wouldn't fret. Go by the paint color you want, paint it, stick it out in the sun to dry and you will have your matching pipe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can attest this mount( http://www.mountdirect.com/ProductDe...roductCode=NPL ) fit my 8350 fine as I just mounted this sucker over the weekend...you can see for yourself when i get the pics loaded if you want to make sure before you pull the trigger...it has several configurations for different projectors. I was leery but the website said it was compatable. I used the configuration that used the extension arms and it worked fine...It uses four out of the five threaded mount holes in the configuration I used...
> 
> 
> BTW - KlingonScum...glad you were able to figure out a solution to that mount....looks solid from the picture you posted..
> 
> 
> now on to finishing my fixed screen...going 120"....building it from scratch from here...so far so good... http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen



Here's the pics of the mountdirect.com mount....in one of the pictures you will see a black band at the top near the ceiling...that's electrical tape...my cable management system







until I can do my cable routing through the ceiling...my theater is still in the early stages...


pics link ------> http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/homeTheater/


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_Dean* /forum/post/20712292
> 
> 
> Here's the pics of the mountdirect.com mount....in one of the pictures you will see a black band at the top near the ceiling...that's electrical tape...my cable management system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> until I can do my cable routing through the ceiling...my theater is still in the early stages...
> 
> 
> pics link ------> http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/homeTheater/



Thanks for the pics!


Looks nice. Your mount is silver but your extension white? looks like it from the picture.

Can you run the cables through the pipe and up into the ceiling. I see your mount have a hole in the middle. Did you drill a hole through your stud?


I'm going to order the mount now and get the pipe from home depot. I like the silver you got so I'm also getting silver.


I'm also shopping for a screen. Carl place screen looks really attractive and cheap. If only they have the gray color screens I would do it. My room is white with covered windows so I think gray will be a more prefer route then white.


----------



## NewShockerGuy

I don't want to clutter the thread so I will only ask this question.


It's between this projector and the home cinema 8500 ub.


The 8350 seems like the best bang for the buck but my brother in law has a budget of 2k for a projector so the 8500ub fits the bill and seems good...


Is there a reason I should go with the 8350 compared to the 8500ub?


This will be our first projector on a stationary 120" screen.


Thanks,

-Nigel


----------



## HT_Dean

Quote:

Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* 
Thanks for the pics!


Looks nice. Your mount is silver but your extension white? looks like it from the picture.

Can you run the cables through the pipe and up into the ceiling. I see your mount have a hole in the middle. Did you drill a hole through your stud?


I'm going to order the mount now and get the pipe from home depot. I like the silver you got so I'm also getting silver.


I'm also shopping for a screen. Carl place screen looks really attractive and cheap. If only they have the gray color screens I would do it. My room is white with covered windows so I think gray will be a more prefer route then white.
pics are worth a thousand words for sure....


the extension i also bought from them. it appears white due to the flash. I will say though that it does not exactly match the silver mount which is annoying...it doesn't really bother me though. I have plenty of other projects in this room right now.


There is an opening at the base of the accessory pipe that allows for you run cables through it(you can't see it in that picture i have but it's a square opening). Not sure how it would work with a NPL pipe you get yourself. I suspect you will be able to fish it through somehow. The bottom clasp that attaches to the projector mounting equipment doesn't leave much of an opening. I will look at that more this evening if I get the chance.


As for the mounting plate, I had to position it between some studs. I ran another 2X4 between the studs and attached it to the spanned studs with screws. it's solid. You are correct in that I had to drill a hole through the middle of it so I can later pass through the hdmi cable. I am going to have a ac plug put in near the plate on the ceiling soon.


Yeah the Carl place I stumbled upon from reading a post or googling... If you need a grey screen you will probably have to look else where but if you just go with white and don't have a hundreds of dollars to spend on the screen i think it's a nice option. I will let you know how it turns out. I just put on the trim around the screen...going to add the black felt to frame out the viewable screen and then I will hang it on the wall...


Just as an fyi...i have a dark room but it has 3 windows in it...they all have blinds...i don't have viewing issues with this projector..it's plenty bright..I will probably curtain them off at some point...once i figure out what theme I am going with for the room..


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NewShockerGuy* /forum/post/20714736
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a reason I should go with the 8350 compared to the 8500ub?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Nigel



The 8500ub was discontinued. The new model is the 8700ub. I think the biggest difference between the 8700ub and 8350 are the improved blacks. If you are very concerned about getting the darkest blacks, then go with the 8700, otherwise I think you will very happy with the 8350.


----------



## Decadent_Spectre

Is the Epson EH-TW 3600 the same as the Epson 8350?


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Kinkead* /forum/post/20705367
> 
> 
> SonyC,
> 
> How is your calibration going? During my calibrations, I left the main-menu saturation at 0 and instead used the brightness settings in the RBGCMY menu which allows individual control over each color. The problem with main-menu saturation control, is it makes the same adjustment to red, green, and blue.
> 
> 
> I'm also starting in Cinema mode. My biggest problem is getting xyY set correctly for green. I've moved the hue, saturation, and brightness controls to their limits, but green is still way off.
> 
> 
> There is a detailed info on calibrating Epson projectors in this thread:
> Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB)
> 
> I believe the Epson 8350 design evolved from the UB series, so much of the info should be relevant to us. Tonight, I'll try calibrating to the 75% saturation levels instead of 100% to see if I can get green dialed in.
> 
> 
> Is anyone else calibrating their 8350 using HCFR? The 8350 has a complete color management system (CMS) and the HCFR software and the AVSHD testpatterns are free to download. An EyeOneLT colormeter cost about $115 on Amazon.
> 
> GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES



I'm finally at a point where I can stand back and say This 8350 in awesome. Not perfect... but that costs a lot more! And doesn't exist anyway!


Normally I'd spend a block of time (or many...) learning the characteristics of the unit before diving in. This time, I didn't and led to a lot of frustration.


As I mentioned earlier, using an i-1 and HCFR with AVSHD in a traditional front-projector cal arrangement left me at the point of thinking my sensor was defective. I bought another and it matched the first.


I couldn't get any decent tracking for blue, it just didn't read after a point, non-responsive. Green was a bit weird. I set up my sensor per recommendations, ran data, followed the numbers and got a real ugly image.


I had considered an outside-the-box approach and after the announcement of a unit intended for the same sort of departure from tradition I figured I'd give it a go. Nothing whatsoever to lose.


Instead of reading off the screen, I turned it around and read straight from the 8350. As a buffer, I have a high-quality professional-grade diffusion filter over the sensor ports to blend any localized pixel-to-pixel induced skew to the reading. I rigged a positive sighting aid by setting the i-1 on a table, standing a tube next to (with parallel alignment now assured) and taped them together. When I set up the sensor in the middle of the beam, I adjust the aim so the shadow cast by the tube is just the thin circle of its cross-section. I found an empty toilet tissue core works very nicely and may somehow eliminate crap from the image...

I fully acknowledge that this removes any screen-induced shift from the cal. With 0% success using the old way, I'm fine with that.


To establish the best color-temp starting point, I ran greyscale passes 0-100 and monitored the delta-E through the sweep. 7000 was the winner, with the lowest delta-E start to finish.


While it doesn't feed me a true off-the-screen candela/fL number, again...I can can deal with that for now. I set my black level, I set my white level to peal at about 240 for a little headroom, set gamma at 2.4. After cal I get a decent gamma track at about 2.2, good shadow detail and no blow-out in the high end. Whatever the fL level is, I'll find out later... for now, I like it works!


I'm still running passes with different tweaks and skews to see how overall balance ends up. Multiple iterations are just part of the deal, and at least now I end up with a pleasing image that supports the data rather than data that reads good but the image looks like a bad day at the Happy Mushroom Diner.


I have some key criteria in image quality. I watch a lot of sci-fi, so there's a lot of low-level content. I HATE color shifts in the low range, for some reason I'm sensitive to it. Green blacks drive me nuts! I also like auto racing, and unnatural color shifts on something like the shadow on a tire (essentially a gray ramp) catches my eye... I really like to get the low end nice and neutral.


Natural flesh tones are a must.


Back to auto racing, it's a handy reality check for saturation. The cars might have a neon-green color, but the grass shouldn't glow!


I was following the suggestions in the Epson cal guide mentioned before. After running a few passes using the suggested 75% sat technique, it seems that the 8350 may not have as severe an over saturation as the older models in the article. Green does get pretty hot, but red and blue not so much. I'm still shifting between 75 and 100% passes and may find an intermediate compromise. I'd much rather go in and neutralize it in the service menu.


I would enjoy the process much more if there was just a dead-Neutral what goes in is what comes out setting. Once we start compensating and compromising, it goes subjective. With built-in deviation from spec, t's not enough to dial in a number.


I don't mean to ramble, but I'm just throwing this out there cos I have a few minutes...


Some folks indicate some color shift, red one side blue the other. What's interesting is that I have some shift... opposite that of another poster! This would seem to indicate that it's not a fixed, built-in non-defeatable defect. If it was, it would typically show up the same way unit after unit. Same thing with convergence. Some days I'm like, wow, perfect today and the next day I've got a one-pixel red border on the upper edge of everything. I'm confident that work-arounds are possible with some enthusiast R and D.


I wondered if the shift may be the product of stray outside-the-image bleed coming off the screen and reading as skewed color content. I rigged up some barn doors out of blackwrap foil (do you get the impression I like gaffer's tricks?!) and set up to mask right up to the image, it made no significant change it the shift. Might eek out a little more contrast, but then what isn't going to the screen is bounced back into the lens... could be a break-even.


The fan is a bit louder on this unit. Others were near imperceptible, this one is there.


I started to get some flicker right around the 1000-hour point. I went to normal lamp mode and it stopped. Frankly, I like the contrast and overall color balance better so I've just left it there.


I wish I had time to document and present this, but time is a bit scarce. If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to chime in if I can help.


----------



## SonyCrusader

One more thing about green... it has a weird phase shift (hue shift.) It's a bit hot at the high end so I cal'd phase at the midpoint of 75 and 100 values. That done, 75 has a shift toward yellow, as it rises it sweeps over the ref target, then hitting the oversaturated high end it has shifted toward cyan.


I was playing with real-time CIE chart-monitoring... really the only reason I saw it.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NewShockerGuy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't want to clutter the thread so I will only ask this question.
> 
> 
> It's between this projector and the home cinema 8500 ub.
> 
> 
> The 8350 seems like the best bang for the buck but my brother in law has a budget of 2k for a projector so the 8500ub fits the bill and seems good...
> 
> 
> Is there a reason I should go with the 8350 compared to the 8500ub?
> 
> 
> This will be our first projector on a stationary 120" screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Nigel



I own the 8350, and I am pleased with it, BUT, if I had the budget for the 8700UB, I would buy it without hesitation. The improvements are clearly visible.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/20720315
> 
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, using an i-1 and HCFR with AVSHD in a traditional front-projector cal arrangement left me at the point of thinking my sensor was defective. I bought another and it matched the first.



How close do you place your i-1 to the screen? The "Dummies" calibration guide recommends about 4", but I've been using 24" as recommended in other threads.


Also, I have some slight moire patterns on my perforated screen which show up as colored bands that could throw off the sensor readings. I eliminate the moire patterns during calibration by defocussing the image.


Steve


----------



## SonyCrusader

I tried both ways plus whatever else I could think of. I never seemed to be able to get good data. It's a cheap screen that Best Buy bundled with the 8350 for about $100. Maybe the i-1 is allergic to it. My entire setup is really just crudely aligned. I need to really get everything squared off, but I've been having a lot of fun just messing with it!


It's liberating in a sad strange way... to turn around and knock the screen half-over and put it back rightside up and wonder if it doesn't look a little bit better now...


This coming from a guy who spends his day building electronic/mechanical assemblies for fighters and satellites to tolerances of a ten-thousandth of an inch! (and enjoys it!)


----------



## bobbo111

All,


Howdy! I want to start off by saying that I've used the Search box quite a bit before posting this question. I'll put the search terms used at the bottom of this post.


I have an 8350 that I love dearly. The problem is some of the things feeding it (it would seem).


I have a DishTV dish feeding one of the HD DVRs. That leads into the LG LHB536 Blu-Ray/receiver getup via HDMI, which feeds the 8350.


The odd thing is that when I put on the TV, on the LHB536 connected to the 8350, the sound doesn't play whatsoever. If I connect the LHB536 to another TV (such as an HDMI-enabled computer monitor), it plays the sound just fine.


The LHB536 plays sound great (connected to the 8350) when I'm watching a Blu Ray or using it to stream video via Netflix or Amazon.. just no bueno when trying to watch DishTV on the projector.


Any thoughts? Just an oddball unit, perhaps, or is there some ultra-obvious setting that I haven't fiddled with?


Thanks very much for any help you can give!


---

Search terms used: "8350 LG", "8350 receiver", "8350 sound", "8350 dishtv", "8350 htib"


----------



## Jomanscool2

Does anyone use the Harmony 900 with this projector? I have problems with the projector not turning off with the end of an activity - it does not properly send the 'two presses' to turn it off. Yet when I grab the remote and go to devices -> Projector -> Off it works perfectly.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jomanscool2* /forum/post/20744667
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the Harmony 900 with this projector? I have problems with the projector not turning off with the end of an activity - it does not properly send the 'two presses' to turn it off. Yet when I grab the remote and go to devices -> Projector -> Off it works perfectly.



I've used the 900 with the 8350 / 9350/8700 with no issues.


----------



## 2002whitegt

thanks for the awesome thread, I decided to get the projector even with some of the concerns brought up.


So far I've been blown away from how great the image looks. So much better than my old Optoma HD65.


One thing I didn't expect was the size, this thing is huge compared to my old projector. Luckily it's quieter and doesn't leak light.


----------



## greddy09sc

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HT_Dean* 
pics are worth a thousand words for sure....


the extension i also bought from them. it appears white due to the flash. I will say though that it does not exactly match the silver mount which is annoying...it doesn't really bother me though. I have plenty of other projects in this room right now.


There is an opening at the base of the accessory pipe that allows for you run cables through it(you can't see it in that picture i have but it's a square opening). Not sure how it would work with a NPL pipe you get yourself. I suspect you will be able to fish it through somehow. The bottom clasp that attaches to the projector mounting equipment doesn't leave much of an opening. I will look at that more this evening if I get the chance.


As for the mounting plate, I had to position it between some studs. I ran another 2X4 between the studs and attached it to the spanned studs with screws. it's solid. You are correct in that I had to drill a hole through the middle of it so I can later pass through the hdmi cable. I am going to have a ac plug put in near the plate on the ceiling soon.


Yeah the Carl place I stumbled upon from reading a post or googling... If you need a grey screen you will probably have to look else where but if you just go with white and don't have a hundreds of dollars to spend on the screen i think it's a nice option. I will let you know how it turns out. I just put on the trim around the screen...going to add the black felt to frame out the viewable screen and then I will hang it on the wall...


Just as an fyi...i have a dark room but it has 3 windows in it...they all have blinds...i don't have viewing issues with this projector..it's plenty bright..I will probably curtain them off at some point...once i figure out what theme I am going with for the room..


Looks like I have to buy the extension from mount direct. The mount i ordered came in and it is 1 1/2in diameter hole. I need about 18in extension. Home Depot sells a 12in for $10. That's the longest they have for 1 1/2in diameter. Unless I buy a eight feet pole that cost over $40. If that's the case, I rather just order it from mount direct.


Darn it, if I would have ordered the extension together I would have saved on shipping. Now I have to pay more for shipping for ordering it separately.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jomanscool2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the Harmony 900 with this projector? I have problems with the projector not turning off with the end of an activity - it does not properly send the 'two presses' to turn it off. Yet when I grab the remote and go to devices -> Projector -> Off it works perfectly.



I had that problem too with my Harmony One. Run the setup again for the projector. It will ask you whether there is separate buttons for on and off or if there is just one power button. Make sure to choose the one power button option. Update the remote and you should be good to go.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20747485
> 
> 
> Looks like I have to buy the extension from mount direct. The mount i ordered came in and it is 1 1/2in diameter hole. I need about 18in extension. Home Depot sells a 12in for $10. That's the longest they have for 1 1/2in diameter. Unless I buy a eight feet pole that cost over $40. If that's the case, I rather just order it from mount direct.
> 
> 
> Darn it, if I would have ordered the extension together I would have saved on shipping. Now I have to pay more for shipping for ordering it separately.



Simply get a 24" pre-cut length of 1.5" Sched.40 PVC Pipe and dice of 6", and two Male Threaded couplings. Glue 'em on each end. paint the Role any way you want. The assembly will only weigh about 1lb, cost about $6.00, ad can easily hold 40 lbs.


I do it that way 90% of the Time.


----------



## fitbrit

I replaced my modded Monoprice mount with the Chief RPA168. I love Monoprice, but this is one area where I couldn't live with a compromise.


The cheap mount was great value, but with the projector mounted in a spot that might take the very occasional tap, it didn't inspire confidence. Not to mention the frequent need to readjust the mount since it didn't hold the projector tightly.


I took MM's recommendation and I'm very happy with this robust, easily-adjusted mount.


I think I got the best price at nerds.net at $126 plus $10 shipping. Despite some reviews to the contrary, my one-time experience with Thenerds.net was very smooth.


----------



## malmit

I recently purchased my Epson 8350 and a ceiling mount but today I realized that the mount didn't come with any screws to attach the plate to the bottom of my projector. Does anyone know what size+length and type of screw I need to purchase to get the plate mounted to my projector?


Thanks!


----------



## bomrat

the manual says M4×9mm screws..


----------



## justinkwaugh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20747671
> 
> 
> I had that problem too with my Harmony One. Run the setup again for the projector. It will ask you whether there is separate buttons for on and off or if there is just one power button. Make sure to choose the one power button option. Update the remote and you should be good to go.





You can also turn off the confirmation in the projector menus so a single power command will work


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> you can also turn off the confirmation in the projector menus so a single power command will work



+1


----------



## thelordofthelink

Hi there,

I just got 8350 since last Friday and 've been waiting for the screen. ^^










the detail in bright scene is very fantastic even project to the wall.


----------



## Coopx

Pulled the trigger and bought this 8350 at Electronic Expo, i called the sale representative and he gave it to me for $1089.99 Shipped then ordered the Favi 120" HD-120 Screen for $196.50 and 25" mediabridge hdmi for $19.99 at Amazon. Not a bad deal for me since im in a super tight budget.


Anyway i was checking some thread here and i saw this online store called projector people, i was wondering wat is their Demo Version of 8350?


----------



## ahearst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justinkwaugh* /forum/post/20750413
> 
> 
> You can also turn off the confirmation in the projector menus so a single power command will work



How do you do this, step by step? Thanks


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ahearst* /forum/post/20753499
> 
> 
> How do you do this, step by step? Thanks



In the Menu... Settings->Display->Standby Confirmation


----------



## ahearst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20754868
> 
> 
> In the Menu... Settings->Display->Standby Confirmation



Thanks for the reply, I'll take care of it tonight after work -- This PJ is awesome, by the way


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20751265
> 
> 
> Pulled the trigger and bought this 8350 at Electronic Expo, i called the sale representative and he gave it to me for $1089.99 Shipped then ordered the Favi 120" HD-120 Screen for $196.50 and 25" mediabridge hdmi for $19.99 at Amazon. Not a bad deal for me since im in a super tight budget.
> 
> 
> Anyway i was checking some thread here and i saw this online store called projector people, i was wondering wat is their Demo Version of 8350?



PJ $10 cheaper than projector people. But the favi screen is only $109 at buy.com

http://www.buy.com/prod/favi-pd-120-...215197996.html


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20748102
> 
> 
> Simply get a 24" pre-cut length of 1.5" Sched.40 PVC Pipe and dice of 6", and two Male Threaded couplings. Glue 'em on each end. paint the Role any way you want. The assembly will only weigh about 1lb, cost about $6.00, ad can easily hold 40 lbs.
> 
> 
> I do it that way 90% of the Time.



What is "dice of 6"?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20756888
> 
> 
> What is "dice of 6"?



Should of been "dice off 6"....as in cut off.


----------



## MississippiMan

Rango on 122" diagonal Silver Fire DIY Screen

Epson 8350 on Living Room ...-Out if the Box- settings.

Iris off. 12.5' Throw

Camera : Canon Power Shot SD 770 IS @ 10 MP Auto Exp/Focus (200 ISO)

Hand Held.....no Tripod


----------



## s0ad

looks great, cinema mode?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *s0ad* /forum/post/20758172
> 
> 
> looks great, cinema mode?



Living Room...no calibration for the Gray Screen


----------



## greddy09sc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20758148
> 
> 
> Should of been "dice off 6"....as in cut off.



I see. Thanks!


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20758181
> 
> 
> Living Room...no calibration for the Gray Screen



Awesome shots, MM! Last night, I decided to calibrate my 8350's dynamic mode and I was blown away! It was like having a huge 125" (2.34:1) plasma hanging on the wall. It was just incredible to watch.










Oh BTW, HomeTheater.com just published their own review of the 8350. FWIW, here is the review: CLICK HERE


----------



## thelordofthelink

8350 project to DIY screen


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greddy09sc* /forum/post/20756884
> 
> 
> PJ $10 cheaper than projector people. But the favi screen is only $109 at buy.com
> 
> http://www.buy.com/prod/favi-pd-120-...215197996.html



Projector People has it for $1199.99 i got it for $1089.99










The Favi Screen in Buy.com is the manual version PD-120, i bought the electronic version HD-120.


----------



## n1kki6

I thought I would have be using my projector in some ambient light so I went with 106" screen with the PJ placed at a 11' throw per the projector central calculator. After having the projector for a few months now my ambient light use is pretty minimal. What would be the benefit to me moving the projector back a few feet, say a 14-15' throw? Seems like even with all the lights off my black levels are not super great, I know they will only be so good on an entry level projector and I also have mid color green walls so I get some reflection but would there be any black level benefit to moving the PJ back?


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20758181
> 
> 
> Living Room...no calibration for the Gray Screen



where did you bought your screen?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20759188
> 
> 
> where did you bought your screen?



You usually cannot go out and "buy" a completed Screen like the one above...., it is a custom made "DIY" (Do It Yourself) Screen.


A 106" x 60" surface cut from a 120" x 60" x 6mm (1/4") sheet of SINTRA (Expanded PVC Foam Board ) trimmed in 2.5" wide MDF Base Trim wrapped in Plush Triple Black Velvet.


The SINTRA is spray coated with Silver Fire v2.1 4.0 usng a $49.00 Electric HVLP Gun.


Silver Fire v2.1 4.0 is a high performance, highly reflective dark Gray Screen designed to both improve the ability to watch content in Ambient light, and also maintain brightness and dynamic range of all Colors while also improving the perception of having a deeper level of Blacks than would otherwise be possible.


While it (the screen) plays a very important part in producing the images seen, brook no mistake that having a PJ like the Epson 8350 in the equation is also something that makes it all look just that much "Mo Bedder".


I'm on the short list of Custom Installers that will be getting 2 of the Epson 61000 in September. That unit sports 1,000,000:1 Dynamic Contrast. You can be absolutely certain that there is a specific DIY Screen being developed to take advantage of that level of performance.


DIY Screen making is a blast, and it's also a incredibly self-satisfying endeavor. On the AVS DIY Screen Forum we specialize in helping any / all comers make Screen like the one above...or one even Larger...or Smaller, Grayer...Whiter...with more or less reflectivity. You name the application...we have a viable alternative to buying a screen waiting for your consideration. Even and including over-spraying onto existing Fixed and Retractable Mfg. Screens


Check us out over here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20759296
> 
> 
> You usually cannot go out and "buy" a completed Screen like the one above...., it is a custom made "DIY" (Do It Yourself) Screen.
> 
> 
> A 106" x 60" surface cut from a 120" x 60" x 6mm (1/4") sheet of SINTRA (Expanded PVC Foam Board ) trimmed in 2.5" wide MDF Base Trim wrapped in Plush Triple Black Velvet.
> 
> 
> The SINTRA is spray coated with Silver Fire v2.1 4.0 usng a $49.00 Electric HVLP Gun.
> 
> 
> Silver Fire v2.1 4.0 is a high performance, highly reflective dark Gray Screen designed to both improve the ability to watch content in Ambient light, and also maintain brightness and dynamic range of all Colors while also improving the perception of having a deeper level of Blacks than would otherwise be possible.
> 
> 
> While it (the screen) plays a very important part in producing the images seen, brook no mistake that having a PJ like the Epson 8350 in the equation is also something that makes it all look just that much "Mo Bedder".
> 
> 
> I'm on the short list of Custom Installers that will be getting 2 of the Epson 61000 in September. That unit sports 1,000,000:1 Dynamic Contrast. You can be absolutely certain that there is a specific DIY Screen being developed to take advantage of that level of performance.
> 
> 
> DIY Screen making is a blast, and it's also a incredibly self-satisfying endeavor. On the AVS DIY Screen Forum we specialize in helping any / all comers make Screen like the one above...or one even Larger...or Smaller, Grayer...Whiter...with more or less reflectivity. You name the application...we have a viable alternative to buying a screen waiting for your consideration.
> 
> 
> Check us out over here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110



I bought this screen named favi hd-120 1.3 gain cuz im in a really tight budget also im just renting an apartment so the electric type applied very well on my application. Do you think i can spray it with the silver fire? my walls and ceiling are cream color.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20759319
> 
> 
> I bought this screen named favi hd-120 1.3 gain cuz im in a really tight budget also im just renting an apartment so the electric type applied very well on my application. Do you think i can spray it with the silver fire?




Absolutely. As a matter of fact I was just about to go back into my last post above and edit in a blurb about how the DIY Paint Formulas we advocate can all of 'em...every one...be applied via Spraying to Fixed or Retractable Mfg. Screens. I've been there...done that several times, on Electric Retractable screens ranging up to 135" diagonal. I'm certainly not the only one though, As several other stalwart and appreciative DIY Screen Forum dwellers have also gone down that road leading to more satisfaction than they thought possible to get on a low budget..


There are certain procedures to follow, and due care that needs to be taken, but in the all-in-all it's not really any more difficult to spray a Retractable Screen than it would be to spray a Wall.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20759352
> 
> 
> Absolutely. As a matter of fact I was just about to go back into my last post above and edit in a blurb about how the DIY Paint Formulas we advocate can all of 'em...every one...be applied via Spraying to Fixed or Retractable Mfg. Screens. I've been there...done that several times, on Electric Retractable screens ranging up to 135" diagonal. I'm certainly not the only one though, As several other stalwart and appreciative DIY Screen Forum dwellers have also gone down that road leading to more satisfaction than they thought possible to get on a low budget..
> 
> 
> There are certain procedures to follow, and due care that needs to be taken, but in the all-in-all it's not really any more difficult to spray a Retractable Screen than it would be to spray a Wall.



I am really interested on doing this, i also heard that it really improves the black level, anyway i would really appreciate if you can link me or PM the thread for this DIY project. One more thing is 15 inches throw is ideal for a 120" diagonal screen? or should i go closer like 14-13"?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20759440
> 
> 
> I am really interested on doing this, i also heard that it really improves the black level, anyway i would really appreciate if you can link me or PM the thread for this DIY project. One more thing is 15 inches throw is ideal for a 120" diagonal screen? or should i go closer like 14-13"?



15 *"*Throw? I'm guessing...just a wild one...that you mean *'* as in "feet".










How about this;


Let's take this over to the DIY Forum where it belongs. (...you can always post back on here with your end results...and being the Thread Starter, I hope you do! )


Start a new Thread with your project in the Title. I'll come on as will others, garnering you more specific and targeted info...and more assurance nothing is misconstrued. You'll have more than one other question, I'm sure...and on a self-dedicated Thread, the Q&As will be there for everyone else to avail themselves of as well.


I'll be on the lookout for it...









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20759711
> 
> 
> 15 *"*[/SIZE-5]Throw? I'm guessing...just a wild one...that you mean *'* as in "feet".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about this;
> 
> 
> Let's take this over to the DIY Forum where it belongs. (...you can always post back on here with your end results...and being the Thread Starter, I hope you do! )
> 
> 
> Start a new Thread with your project in the Title. I'll come on as will others, garnering you more specific and targeted info...and more assurance nothing is misconstrued. You'll have more than one other question, I'm sure...and on a self-dedicated Thread, the Q&As will be there for everyone else to avail themselves of as well.
> 
> 
> I'll be on the lookout for it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110





yes sir, 15 Feet throw over 120" screen, my apology for the confusion


----------



## Fishtank

Bulb down...


Exploded about 2700 hrs in. That's not that bad... however there was the stated 5000 hr rating I believe. I used it a lot, i've been stuck in my basement more than normal for some reasons beyond my control... only had it about 10 months now I think.


I will look into these 2 questions myself but I always like to hear the opinion of people who have had to do this incase what I found on the internet isn't that reliable...


Anyhow there has been some articles from reputable sites that say epson will replace the original bulb if it fails within your projectors warranty period, does anyone have any experience with that?


Also are counterfeit bulbs really a big issue? At first glance I've seen some bulbs from some sites in the $200 range while epson is at $300. I've never bought a replacement bulb before.


Any opinions/advice would be much appreciated.



Also if anyone is curious about the symptoms I saw before it exploded.... about 3-400 hrs ago the whole screen would flicker bright->dim->bright->dim etc. in eco mode. Looked fine in Normal mode however brightness really started to drop quickly as I continued using it. I was starting to contemplate getting a new bulb just for the over-all brightness anyhow. Few days ago I started to see the brightness flicker in normal mode just a bit, then today after about an 8 hr session it exploded mid-use.


----------



## Davinleeds

Never had one explode. Was it contained? How was cleanup?


----------



## Fishtank

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Davinleeds* 
Never had one explode. Was it contained? How was cleanup?
I actually contemplated the word "exlplode" briefly... It made a loud pop, and went black immediately and has the red light on the unit. I actually haven't bothered to look inside yet as I figure I can do that once I sort out this replacement bulb.


I'm assuming there would be no other damage... now that you mention it does anyone know of any other concerns related to this?


----------



## MississippiMan

Contact Epson CS on Monday. Have your Sales Info handy (Receipt-Registration Doc-Serial #) Use your basic descriptions above and tell 'em like it is. ***


In Today's upside down world, it is already something like a 180 degree turn for at least 2 PJ Mfgs. JVC & Epson. Epson does indeed have a Replacement Bulb Policy in effect...one that has it's origins due to "other" PJ Models than the 8350 having repeated Bulb Failures before 500 hrs.


It's a cold, hard, irrefutable fact that of all Epson PJs, the 8350 has had the fewest instances of what can be called "Premature Bulb Failure" (under the specified 90 Days/500 hrs. Bulb Warranty)


Yet Epson has gone so far as to include their entire HT based product line in the "Bulb Life Warranty = the Projector Warranty". This despite the advertised _*Estimates*_ for Bulb Hour Life are clearly stated to be exactly that....estimates. They (Epson) choose to ignore the past 30 yrs of accepted business practice that allowed that the Consumer has a Bulb Warranty from the "Bulb Mfg" and that was it.....end of Story.


Want more protection? We all had to consider purchasing a Aftermarket Bulb Warranty ...usually 3 Yrs and 2 replacements. For anywhere from $99.00 to $199.00+.


That was just barely a full.....2 years ago. That's all.


Then there is JVC...whose Bulbs retail out for $500.00+...and who does replacements on a Case by Case basis. However to their credit, very few legitimate requests are not honored. But a few are requests have been...as reported on AVS, and most of those involved Bulbs whose Hrs had surpassed 2000. Even so, in JVC's case history, their Bulbs (...and a few model PJs...) have had a far higher percentages of Bulb/Panel/Hardware failures than has had the Epson Lineup. And that's even more telling because Epson has sold about 20+ Xs more Projectors.


But here we are, a End User having 2700 hrs on his Bulb (2300 from first issue) wanting to have a free Bulb Replacement.


The gall!










What's so upside down is that Epson is gonna give him one.









***...but I wouldn't make your hour total any more of an issue than it might be. Don't Tell...iffin' they Don't Ask works by my reckoning.


But Policy is Policy, and if recent History is any indication, your chances of copping a Free Replacement Bulb are as good as anyone else s'. Your well under (2 Months?) 1 Year of the 2 Year PJ Warranty, so that would be my primary focus. Be Firm! ' ...but be _nice._


BTW and FYI.....


The Lamps in the Epsons are not part of a "Sealed Optical Light Path". However the "Bulb" resides within a Lens Housing that has in-out Filters. I've seen Bulbs that did indeed shatter...but I've never seen any debris make it outside of the Bulb Housing


----------



## Fishtank

haha yeah that's one of othe reasons I asked here first because it does sound too good to be true.


I was contemplating a new bulb purchase anyhow, but if they are offering free replacements under even my circumstances... then I'm crazy not to.


This is the first bulb I've had to replace however and it's my 4th projector(not 4th 8350, I've had no real problems with mine), I usually upgrade projectors around 1000hrs, I can't imagine upgrading this projector yet, it's been great. I'm also happy with the pricing of the lamps I've found from some reputable sites. $230-250 would put me at about 10cents/hour (2700hrs) to run something I really enjoy.


UPDATE: So I called up epson and as MM suggested they didn't skip a beat. New bulb on the way, if I have any issues with the next bulb within the 2 year warranty period of my projector then it will be dealt with as well. All I needed was the little PrivateLine support credit card number that came in the instruction manual and the serial number of the unit. I believe they would sort it out just based on the S/N however. The only dowside of all this is that it will be nearly impossible for me to justify buying a projector from another company. I'm very happy with this company right now.


Also they didn't seem to care at all that I'm a canadian who purchased from the states so I originally had a US shipping address. They are sending the replacement to my canadian address. Which is another "rare" occurence in the electronics industry.


----------



## orangezero

Yes, like the previous posts describe, the epson two year lamp warranty made my decision that much easier. I've never owned an epson before. I'm sure they are playing some marketing games here. Seems its working.


----------



## Davinleeds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank* /forum/post/20764988
> 
> 
> haha yeah that's one of othe reasons I asked here first because it does sound too good to be true.
> 
> 
> I was contemplating a new bulb purchase anyhow, but if they are offering free replacements under even my circumstances... then I'm crazy not to.
> 
> 
> This is the first bulb I've had to replace however and it's my 4th projector(not 4th 8350, I've had no real problems with mine), I usually upgrade projectors around 1000hrs, I can't imagine upgrading this projector yet, it's been great. I'm also happy with the pricing of the lamps I've found from some reputable sites. $230-250 would put me at about 10cents/hour (2700hrs) to run something I really enjoy.
> 
> 
> UPDATE: So I called up epson and as MM suggested they didn't skip a beat. New bulb on the way, if I have any issues with the next bulb within the 2 year warranty period of my projector then it will be dealt with as well. All I needed was the little PrivateLine support credit card number that came in the instruction manual and the serial number of the unit. I believe they would sort it out just based on the S/N however. The only dowside of all this is that it will be nearly impossible for me to justify buying a projector from another company. I'm very happy with this company right now.
> 
> 
> Also they didn't seem to care at all that I'm a canadian who purchased from the states so I originally had a US shipping address. They are sending the replacement to my canadian address. Which is another "rare" occurence in the electronics industry.



Thanks for your response and thanks MM for your info. Appreciate it all.


----------



## nick_danger

Hi all, much of my research into FP has led me back to the 8350 as my first entry to FP home theater. Previously, big-screen LCDs and PDPs have been the center of my HT, but we're remodeling the basement (complete light control) and I want to have something close to 100+". I have owned projectors in the past, but not for serious HT use.


Preliminary designs of our HT will place the projector ~12' from the screen (ceiling mounted ~8' up). After reading the manual from Epson's website, I'm not entirely certain I can get 100+" or not. I'd like some input.


Using the chart on page 14, it lists several "projection distances" which overlap, resulting in different 16:9 diagonal widths ranging from 60" to 120" depending upon offsets. I assume that I can dial it in and make it work, but as someone smart once said, "assumption is the lowest form of knowledge". Previous projectors I owned had keystone adjustments, which appear to be absent on this model. Is that because of the lense offset? Sorry for asking so many questions, projectors have changed a lot since my last one about 12 years ago!


----------



## invadergir

From my personal setup the 12' will be plenty of space for a 100" screen . I'm at about 11' 6" and project a 106" image on my screen no problem. Probably could go bigger if i had the height and width space to do so. I have my projector slightly in the right corner of my room on an old tv tube wall mount. The lens shift allows the image to move with no problem too centre on my screen and cancels out that need to keystone the image.


----------



## Coopx

I Just recieve my 8350 from Electronic Expo last night and try it right away to see for any issues, fortunatley everything is perfect im really satisfied with the purchase. My throw distance is 12 feet from a 120" Favi screen and i was blown away with the picture quality on Toy Story 3 bluray, all i can say is WoW







,, I will take more photos of this beast in action. The customer service from Electronic Expo by the way is top notch, their sale representative are always calling me to update my order, they also used 3 day USP shipping on it so it just took exactly 5 days on the entire transaction. Same on where i ordered the Projector "Ace Photo Digital", they dont use UPS or Fedex for delivery but they use another shipping company called HOME DIRECT but all i can say is awesome, they handle the package really well and always updating me on where the package is. Overall im satisfied and im really happy everything went smooth.


Note: When removing the yellow rubber thing on the lens, it will help a lot if you adjust the shift lens


Now my Questions, can i calibrate this right away or do i have to burn more hours on the bulb?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20774251
> 
> 
> I Just recieve my 8350 from Electronic Expo last night and try it right away to see for any issues, fortunatley everything is perfect im really satisfied with the purchase. My throw distance is 12 feet from a 120" Favi screen and i was blown away with the picture quality on Toy Story 3 bluray, all i can say is WoW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now my Questions, can i calibrate this right away or do i have to burn more hours on the bulb?



You wanna wait...but even so, with a white screen and the Epson set on Living Room or Normal, it's among the most "out of the Box" color-correct PJ that has ever been released.


That might change after 100 hours or so, but until then I'd just pop in a BD of *Rango* (...highly recommended viewing...) and hyperventilate a bit....just for the sheer joy of it all.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20774379
> 
> 
> You wanna wait...but even so, with a white screen and the Epson set on Living Room or Normal, it's among the most "out of the Box" color-correct PJ that has ever been released.
> 
> 
> That might change after 100 hours or so, but until then I'd just pop in a BD of *Rango* (...highly recommended viewing...) and hyperventilate a bit....just for the sheer joy of it all.



MM is it true that if you make the throw distance a little far like 15-16 feet it will improve the picture clarity but sacrificing brightness?


----------



## Coopx

Is this normal? Check pics? thats the display at the lower left when choosing wat input you want. I just notice it yesterday while choosing on wat bluray to watch?


----------



## pacemaker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Coopx* 
Is this normal? Check pics? thats the display at the lower left when choosing wat input you want. I just notice it yesterday while choosing on wat bluray to watch?
unfortunately yes!

welcome to the world of panel mis-allignment


looks like all yours (RGB) are all out by one pixel in various directions

you could ask for a replacement but chances are they will all have varying degrees of mis-allignment. i have tried 4!

if its not bothering your viewing enjoyment then dont waste your time


----------



## Coopx

Quote:

Originally Posted by *pacemaker* 
unfortunately yes!

welcome to the world of panel mis-allignment


looks like all yours (RGB) are all out by one pixel in various directions

you could ask for a replacement but chances are they will all have varying degrees of mis-allignment. i have tried 4!

if its not bothering your viewing enjoyment then dont waste your time
actually it doesnt bother me at all, im just concern if it will going to affect the quality of the image projecting to the screen. If not then ill just gonna keep it that way.


There's also few thing i notice, when i turn on the Iris to high speed does it really take like 2-3 before it goes to deeper black on a black screen, and is it normal that i dont hear any sounds when my iris is ON high speed?


And last "out of the box" the color mode of 8350 is on Natural Mode, i thought it should be at Dynamic mode? im using ps3.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20779183
> 
> 
> actually it doesnt bother me at all, im just concern if it will going to affect the quality of the image projecting to the screen. If not then ill just gonna keep it that way.



You won't likely notice any loss of picture quality with a misalignment of just 1 pixel. Use the built-in test pattern to insure your focus is spot-on. I've noticed that focus can exaggerate alignment issues.



> Quote:
> There's also few thing i notice, when i turn on the Iris to high speed does it really take like 2-3 before it goes to deeper black on a black screen, and is it normal that i dont hear any sounds when my iris is ON high speed?



I sometimes notice a short delay when using the iris, but 2 or 3 seconds seems extreme. My projector is in a projection booth with a glass window, so I can't comment on how loud the iris should be, but I haven't seen any post complaining about iris noise.



> Quote:
> And last "out of the box" the color mode of 8350 is on Natural Mode, i thought it should be at Dynamic mode? im using ps3.



I don't think there is an "out of the box" default for color mode. When you power on, the projector returns to the mode is was last set to. Your projector may have been in Natural mode during testing at the factory.


Select the mode that is most pleasing to you with the current lighting conditions. Cinema and Natural look very similar to me. Both are good in dimly lit rooms.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Kinkead* /forum/post/20779729
> 
> 
> You won't likely notice any loss of picture quality with a misalignment of just 1 pixel. Use the built-in test pattern to insure your focus is spot-on. I've noticed that focus can exaggerate alignment issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I sometimes notice a short delay when using the iris, but 2 or 3 seconds seems extreme. My projector is in a projection booth with a glass window, so I can't comment on how loud the iris should be, but I haven't seen any post complaining about iris noise.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think there is an "out of the box" default for color mode. When you power on, the projector returns to the mode is was last set to. Your projector may have been in Natural mode during testing at the factory.
> 
> 
> Select the mode that is most pleasing to you with the current lighting conditions. Cinema and Natural look very similar to me. Both are good in dimly lit rooms.



thanks for answering my questions.


----------



## raynist

I have a faint red tinted bar down the right side of my picture, just seemed to happen a week ago. Is there any fix? I think I am still in my return period at Best Buy.


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> actually it doesnt bother me at all, im just concern if it will going to affect the quality of the image projecting to the screen. If not then ill just gonna keep it that way.
> 
> 
> There's also few thing i notice, when i turn on the Iris to high speed does it really take like 2-3 before it goes to deeper black on a black screen, and is it normal that i dont hear any sounds when my iris is ON high speed?
> 
> 
> And last "out of the box" the color mode of 8350 is on Natural Mode, i thought it should be at Dynamic mode? im using ps3.



If you exchange this pj for another, it could have worse alignment! One pixel is as good as it gets.


The iris on my 8350 takes 2-3 seconds to respond to a fully black screen as well, but I don't see this when the screen is lit, even dimly. Be glad you have a quiet iris! Actually, one pixel, silent iris, it's a keeper.


Natural color is the default. I think cinema is better for movies in a dark room, but you can set it how you like it. Enjoy your new pj.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20786818
> 
> 
> If you exchange this pj for another, it could have worse alignment! One pixel is as good as it gets.
> 
> 
> The iris on my 8350 takes 2-3 seconds to respond to a fully black screen as well, but I don't see this when the screen is lit, even dimly. Be glad you have a quiet iris! Actually, one pixel, silent iris, it's a keeper.
> 
> 
> Natural color is the default. I think cinema is better for movies in a dark room, but you can set it how you like it. Enjoy your new pj.



are you using ps3 as source too? if you do wats your setting on the PJ and Ps3?


Also what are the other user of 8350 have their sharpness setting at?


----------



## HiSoC8Y

Hello


I got my Epson 8350, and now i'm looking for a wall mount. I dont want it to hang from the ceiling, it won't work for me, so I need something that will mount to the back wall (behind my sofa).


i found this, http://www.universalmounts.com.au/co..._mount_wlv.jpg 


does anyone know if this will work with the Epson 8350?


thank you


----------



## Davinleeds

A shelf would be cheaper.


----------



## fitbrit

A shelf would be cheaper.


----------



## HiSoC8Y

yah I know, but I want to get a mount. Will this work?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiSoC8Y* /forum/post/20799273
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> I got my Epson 8350, and now i'm looking for a wall mount. I dont want it to hang from the ceiling, it won't work for me, so I need something that will mount to the back wall (behind my sofa).
> 
> 
> i found this, http://www.universalmounts.com.au/co..._mount_wlv.jpg
> 
> 
> does anyone know if this will work with the Epson 8350?
> 
> 
> thank you



The Epson 8350 is a pretty huge projector and has been known to not play well with "universal" mounts. Best thing to do would be to call/email the manufacturer directly and ask.


To be honest though, I agree with the others and recommend you go with a shelf. Besides the fact that it's cheaper, I don't like the dangling design of this mount. It would just complicate things when you want to adjust the picture size, focus, and lens shift... all of these adjustments are manually done on the projector using the lens and two dials. I would imagine that it would be hard to make the finer adjustments if the projector moves while adjusting. A shelf would provide you with the nice solid surface that you need.


----------



## theat

Hi all,


I am new to this thread. I have had this projector since March of this year and love it!! However, I have not calibrated it yet b/c the "otu of box" picture looks fantastic. i would like to know if can get better with slight calibration. Does anyonw have any suggestions on this?


Regards,

theat


----------



## theat

Sorry about the spelling!


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theat* /forum/post/20801478
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I am new to this thread. I have had this projector since March of this year and love it!! However, I have not calibrated it yet b/c the "otu of box" picture looks fantastic. i would like to know if can get better with slight calibration. Does anyonw have any suggestions on this?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> theat



i asked the same question on other forum so far they recommend Arts Calibration on Projector central just google "art calibration for 8350" OR you can buy the Disney WoW Bluray disc, its $25.99 at amazon i believe, or if you have some extra $$ you can get a professional to do it for you.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiSoC8Y* /forum/post/20799394
> 
> 
> yah I know, but I want to get a mount. Will this work?



yeah i dont like the hanging thing on it, not sure if you've check this before but a lot including me are using this wall mount.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGI7V4


----------



## Misery4eva

man. I've had my heart set on this projector ever since I thought about getting one (my first). But with all the issues I'm reading about, I'm not so sure anymore. I would get the HD20 but I'm dealing with about a 17' viewing distance so thats why I originally decided on the 8350. After the nightmare that's been a Toshiba 55" LCD, I dont wanna buy something and have to go through more functional drama. :-(


----------



## JakeCourtney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Misery4eva* /forum/post/20802465
> 
> 
> man. I've had my heart set on this projector ever since I thought about getting one (my first). But with all the issues I'm reading about, I'm not so sure anymore. I would get the HD20 but I'm dealing with about a 17' viewing distance so thats why I originally decided on the 8350. After the nightmare that's been a Toshiba 55" LCD, I dont wanna buy something and have to go through more functional drama. :-(



I'm thinking about going into town after work and buying this projector from Best Buy.


Is that not a good idea now or what? What kind of problems are people having? Isn't there a warranty on these things?


----------



## Misery4eva




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20802673
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about going into town after work and buying this projector from Best Buy.
> 
> 
> Is that not a good idea now or what? What kind of problems are people having? Isn't there a warranty on these things?



don't let me deter you, as I've still yet to purchase a pj. I've been reading this thread for the past couple months and have read complaints from dust blobs to premature blown bulbs, to faulty lamp design. this might all be balanced out with Epson's supposedly excellent customer service. On the flipside, plenty of other people just rave about this pj. I'll probably buy it anyway when the time comes, because it seems to be best suited for my situation (placement, price, etc). A DLP pj seems like it just wouldn't work in my situation. I guess I'll just have to buy the 8350 & hope that I'm one of the fortunate ones who doesn't have the issues I've read about.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0

Hey everyone! Just joined a few days ago. I have ordered my Epson 8350 from Amazon and it is being delivered today. This is my first projector and I am very excited to get it up and running. Thanks for all the post regarding issues, problems, pictures, etc. This thread along with reading some reviews helped me to pick the Epson 8350 over the Mits HC4000.


I will upload pictures as soon as I can.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20802146
> 
> 
> yeah i dont like the hanging thing on it, not sure if you've check this before but a lot including me are using this wall mount.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGI7V4



The 8350 is a BIG projector about 18" wide x 16" deep. A standard shelf may be too narrow to hold it. Also, the mounting holes for a ceiling mount are spaced too far apart for most universal mounts. To get an idea check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1dKKNplads 


I used an aluminum plate to adapt my universal mount the 8350.


----------



## theat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20802139
> 
> 
> i asked the same question on other forum so far they recommend Arts Calibration on Projector central just google "art calibration for 8350" OR you can buy the Disney WoW Bluray disc, its $25.99 at amazon i believe, or if you have some extra $$ you can get a professional to do it for you.



Thanks, I will check it out!


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20802139
> 
> 
> i asked the same question on other forum so far they recommend Arts Calibration on Projector central just google "art calibration for 8350" OR you can buy the Disney WoW Bluray disc, its $25.99 at amazon i believe, or if you have some extra $$ you can get a professional to do it for you.



The Disney WOW Bluray is great for first time calibrators. Worth every penny.


You'll calibrate brightness, contrast, sharpness, color saturation, and tint using a blue color filter that is included with the DVD. However, on the 8350, those items are pretty well calibrated out of the box, so you may not see a huge improvement in picture quality.


To achieve a perfect image, you need to calibrate grey scale, and RGBCMY saturation and hue. This is only possible with a color meter, such as the EyeOne LT ($100), and calibration software, such as HFCR.


----------



## theat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20802673
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about going into town after work and buying this projector from Best Buy.
> 
> 
> Is that not a good idea now or what? What kind of problems are people having? Isn't there a warranty on these things?



Hi JakeCourtney,


The projector comes with a 2 year warr. and a 90 day limited warranty on the bulb from epson. If you google their website you can download the manual on this projector that will tell you everything you need to know about it. Its on page 74.


Regards


----------



## JakeCourtney

Is there any way to get 3D to project in the future with this projector? Worth buying a 3-year Squaretrade warranty on this?


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theat* /forum/post/20802847
> 
> 
> Hi JakeCourtney,
> 
> 
> The projector comes with a 2 year warr. and a 90 day limited warranty on the bulb from epson. If you google their website you can download the manual on this projector that will tell you everything you need to know about it. Its on page 74.
> 
> 
> Regards




The bulb warranty is actually the length of your projectors warranty on this line of epson projectors. Few pages back I mentioned they just swapped one with over 2000 hrs on it no questions asked because the projector is still under warranty. They had it to my door in less than 2 days in canada, the lamp shipped from the states.


They also mentioned if I have any more bulb problems within the remainder of the 2 year warranty they will take care of it.


I don't think any other company is matching that right now. Saved me $300, will likely save me another $300 in a year.


----------



## Tesla1856

Man, I can't believe this ...


It looks like my 3 week old Epson 8350 has one stuck on white pixel right in the middle of the screen.


It shows on all dark content, from various sources over HDMI-1. It doesn't show on the Pattern Test because it's part of one of the white lines that make-up the Pattern Test.


It's not a dust spec on the outside of the lense. However, if it was a dust spec somewhere inside the machine, I'm not sure what that would look like (wouldn't it be dark or a shadow)?


I thought Epson fixed the LCD panel problems when they switched to non-organic panels?


Other than this, I'm really loving this projector.


EDIT:

Nevermind










I just noticed that it appears on the 46" plasma as well (using Splitter / 4x2 Switch).


I still don't know what is causing it, but at least it doesn't appear to be the projector.










It seems to be being introduced into the HDMI video stream at some point. It's always the same pixel ... very strange.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20803058
> 
> 
> Is there any way to get 3D to project in the future with this projector? Worth buying a 3-year Squaretrade warranty on this?



It comes with 2, and I used my MasterCard Platinum, so I got 3 years for free.


I think Epson will swap them with us directly through the mail.


If anyone has had to do this already ... do we get new ones or refurbs?


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theat* /forum/post/20802837
> 
> 
> Thanks, I will check it out!



to give you an idea, one of the member here sent me a pic of the plate that goes to the wall on the link i mentioned above. Also it fits well on the 8350, the pic with 8350 were posted here by one of the member.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGI7V4


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Kinkead* /forum/post/20802841
> 
> 
> The Disney WOW Bluray is great for first time calibrators. Worth every penny.
> 
> 
> You'll calibrate brightness, contrast, sharpness, color saturation, and tint using a blue color filter that is included with the DVD. However, on the 8350, those items are pretty well calibrated out of the box, so you may not see a huge improvement in picture quality.
> 
> 
> To achieve a perfect image, you need to calibrate grey scale, and RGBCMY saturation and hue. This is only possible with a color meter, such as the EyeOne LT ($100), and calibration software, such as HFCR.



Out of the box the 8350 image sharpness is very good but not great, on close up you will really see all the pores, wrinkles on the face, and its great on animated film like rango you'll be WoW, but on movies like Inception the sharpness becomes kinda fuzzy (720p like) when the shot is whole body. So i hope after 100 hours i can play with the sharpness setting.


P.S also i noticed that sometimes there's a delay on sync, sounds will go first before the image. Im using PS3, it happens last night on my bluray Rango while playing the trailers, the PJ sounded like its changing color mode while it happens.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20803441
> 
> 
> So i hope after 100 hours i can play with the sharpness setting.



With less than 100 hours on mine, am I not suppose to bumping up things like sharpness or brightness or using Normal Power Mode?


I thought break-in periods were only for plasmas...


BTW, my new projector turned out to be fine and not the problem causing the single white pixel (thank goodness) /PanicMode


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/20804185
> 
> 
> With less than 100 hours on mine, am I not suppose to bumping up things like sharpness or brightness or using Normal Power Mode?
> 
> 
> I thought break-in periods were only for plasmas...
> 
> 
> BTW, my new projector turned out to be fine and not the problem causing the single white pixel (thank goodness) /PanicMode



lol, i dont know either why we have to wait 100 hours, maybe someone can give us a reason.










Glad you solve the white pixel thing.


----------



## JakeCourtney

What's the max distance away from the screen that I can mount this projector on the wall? Is 23 ft away too far away or will I have to try and get it closer someway? Trying to get a 120 inch picture max.


Pretty much night time viewing only.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20804384
> 
> 
> What's the max distance away from the screen that I can mount this projector on the wall? Is 23 ft away too far away or will I have to try and get it closer someway? Trying to get a 120 inch picture max.
> 
> 
> Pretty much night time viewing only.



According to projector central calculator, max is 25 feet for a 120 screen, it might be too far though, if its possible try to mount it around 16-15 feet.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20804384
> 
> 
> What's the max distance away from the screen that I can mount this projector on the wall? Is 23 ft away too far away or will I have to try and get it closer someway? Trying to get a 120 inch picture max.
> 
> 
> Pretty much night time viewing only.



It's got a pretty awesome zoom lens on it.


Use the placement calculator program over at the Epson website ... it will give you the placement range for your intended screen size.


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20804213
> 
> 
> lol, i dont know either why we have to wait 100 hours, maybe someone can give us a reason.



You can calibrate the projector during the first 100 hours. But, the lamp brightness and temperature will change a bit during this break-in period, so you'll likely need to recalibrate after the 100 hour mark.


In fact, the bulb brightness and color temperature will slowly diminish during it's life time, so you should occasionally recalibrate the image.


----------



## Coopx

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Steve Kinkead* 
You can calibrate the projector during the first 100 hours. But, the lamp brightness and temperature will change a bit during this break-in period, so you'll likely need to recalibrate after the 100 hour mark.


In fact, the bulb brightness and color temperature will slowly diminish during it's life time, so you should occasionally recalibrate the image.
I see, thank you.


----------



## Matt Davis

Hello,


Anyone using a Harmony One remote with the 8350? It works for me, but when turning on an activity with the 8350 in it, the Harmony shows processing the commands for 30 seconds (even when it is the only device in the activity). Typically it takes 5 seconds for an activity to start (as with my previous projector, tv, etc...). Anyone else notice this 6x longer than normal start time? The 8350 starts instantly, it is just the remote that is lagging.


Thanks,


-Matt


----------



## Coopx

another thing i notice on my lens yesterday is there some lines (scratches) inside the lenses, can someone check their lens and see if this is normal, i only see it when im using the PJ.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt Davis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Harmony One remote with the 8350? It works for me, but when turning on an activity with the 8350 in it, the Harmony shows processing the commands for 30 seconds (even when it is the only device in the activity). Typically it takes 5 seconds for an activity to start (as with my previous projector, tv, etc...). Anyone else notice this 6x longer than normal start time? The 8350 starts instantly, it is just the remote that is lagging.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Matt



Yes, I am getting the same thing with my Harmony 880. I think this is a setting that can be adjusted in the harmony software for the projector device, but I have been too lazy to mess with it. I think it was set long to coincide withe the projectors warm-up time. I am not sure it will take commands during that time.


----------



## Barn01

Has anyone compared the black levels of the 8350 with the black level clipping removed to the 8700UB? I've read a couple of comparisons before but no idea if the 8350 was setup with the clip level set to 0. I'm wondering if this was a factory setting to make it look worse than the 8700UB on purpose (to sell more of the 8700's).


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt Davis* /forum/post/20806866
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Harmony One remote with the 8350? It works for me, but when turning on an activity with the 8350 in it, the Harmony shows processing the commands for 30 seconds (even when it is the only device in the activity). Typically it takes 5 seconds for an activity to start (as with my previous projector, tv, etc...). Anyone else notice this 6x longer than normal start time? The 8350 starts instantly, it is just the remote that is lagging.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Matt



I have the same issue, but haven't really cared since you can't do any commands while the projector warms up anyways. As long as the remote is ready to go by the time my Blu-ray player is displayed, I'm okay with it. As mentioned before, I'm sure that delay is adjustable using the Harmony software.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0

Alright! My Epson 8350 arrive 2 days ago and it has exceeded my expectations. The picture looks great out of the box. I feel natural and cinema along with ECO turned on looks the best for my environment.


I can see how people say the sharpness isn't the best; however, it is still good enough to enjoy movies, games, and TV. The convergence on my 8350 is off by about 1.5-2 pixels. I am satisfied with this since most reviews say to hold on to one like this because you might get one that is worse if traded in. Also, I do not plan on watching movies a foot from the screen and that is when it is noticeable.


My 8350 is thrown onto a 100 inch Elite Sablescreen Series screen. I originally had the Favi HD-100 but it came with waves and did not work for me. I read more reviews and saw that the Sablescreen was a tension screen so I took the chance and am thrilled with the quality.


I will upload some more pics but in the meantime here are a few of my homemade shelf, screen, and Coraline movie (great movie).


P.S. the picture that shows the screen is washed out since it was taken with a flash and the holes above the screen were for my Favi screen which I returned.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0

Also, how do you attach photos where you don't have to click on them to expand. I want them to be the size of expanding them on the post itself.


Thanks


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M1ll3rPh3n0* /forum/post/20808749
> 
> 
> Also, how do you attach photos where you don't have to click on them to expand. I want them to be the size of expanding them on the post itself.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Nevermind, I figured it out.


----------



## JakeCourtney

So does this projector have lots of motion blur / ghosting? Meaning it's probably not going to be any good for Xbox 360 gaming?


----------



## Steve Kinkead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20808760
> 
> 
> So does this projector have lots of motion blur / ghosting? Meaning it's probably not going to be any good for Xbox 360 gaming?



I'm using a 360 and haven't noticed any motion blur.


----------



## JakeCourtney

A person was complaining in the 8700UB thread that his projector is having massive motion blur/ghosting while he plays 360. Enough so that he can't play it for exteneded periods.


I figured the 8350 and the 8700UB are almost one in the same and if the higher end model was doing it, then surely the lesser one would as well.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M1ll3rPh3n0* /forum/post/20808737
> 
> 
> Alright! My Epson 8350 arrive 2 days ago and it has exceeded my expectations. The picture looks great out of the box. I feel natural and cinema along with ECO turned on looks the best for my environment.
> 
> 
> I can see how people say the sharpness isn't the best; however, it is still good enough to enjoy movies, games, and TV. The convergence on my 8350 is off by about 1.5-2 pixels. I am satisfied with this since most reviews say to hold on to one like this because you might get one that is worse if traded in. Also, I do not plan on watching movies a foot from the screen and that is when it is noticeable.
> 
> 
> My 8350 is thrown onto a 100 inch Elite Sablescreen Series screen. I originally had the Favi HD-100 but it came with waves and did not work for me. I read more reviews and saw that the Sablescreen was a tension screen so I took the chance and am thrilled with the quality.
> 
> 
> I will upload some more pics but in the meantime here are a few of my homemade shelf, screen, and Coraline movie (great movie).
> 
> 
> P.S. the picture that shows the screen is washed out since it was taken with a flash and the holes above the screen were for my Favi screen which I returned.



Here are some more images from Casino Royal, Revenge of the Fallen, and 300. These are taken with a Canon Rebel XT and are even better in person.


Also, I thought I figured out how to attach images at their exact size but still can't find out how to do this. Please help.


----------



## theat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20808847
> 
> 
> A person was complaining in the 8700UB thread that his projector is having massive motion blur/ghosting while he plays 360. Enough so that he can't play it for exteneded periods.
> 
> 
> I figured the 8350 and the 8700UB are almost one in the same and if the higher end model was doing it, then surely the lesser one would as well.



I'm telling you.....This projector is dialed-in for the money. I use my ps3 for bluray and it looks fantastic!! I could'nt be happier with the way it looks. Even with the lights on you can watch movies with the dynamic or living room preset activated. Of course this burns the bulb faster and the speed of the internal fan revs up a little. But if you have little to no ambient light in your room, eco mode will do just fine.


Regards


Also, keep in mind there is a slight motion blur b/c its 60hz. However, you rarely notice it. Now....compared to my 42" 120hz tv downstairs there is no comparison. But then again, you are comparing a 42" vs. 100" and 60hz to 120hz. You really can't go wrong with this projector.


----------



## freestylemx989

should i bite the bullet on the 8350 or wait for new models? Anyone have an idea of when they will be releasing the replacement models?


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M1ll3rPh3n0* /forum/post/20808737
> 
> 
> Alright! My Epson 8350 arrive 2 days ago and it has exceeded my expectations. The picture looks great out of the box. I feel natural and cinema along with ECO turned on looks the best for my environment.
> 
> 
> I can see how people say the sharpness isn't the best; however, it is still good enough to enjoy movies, games, and TV. The convergence on my 8350 is off by about 1.5-2 pixels. I am satisfied with this since most reviews say to hold on to one like this because you might get one that is worse if traded in. Also, I do not plan on watching movies a foot from the screen and that is when it is noticeable.
> 
> 
> My 8350 is thrown onto a 100 inch Elite Sablescreen Series screen. I originally had the Favi HD-100 but it came with waves and did not work for me. I read more reviews and saw that the Sablescreen was a tension screen so I took the chance and am thrilled with the quality.
> 
> 
> I will upload some more pics but in the meantime here are a few of my homemade shelf, screen, and Coraline movie (great movie).
> 
> 
> P.S. the picture that shows the screen is washed out since it was taken with a flash and the holes above the screen were for my Favi screen which I returned.



nice pics, could you check your lens if its has some lines (like scrathes) on it while playing movie? i just wanna know if those lines are normal.


----------



## slybarman

At only 69 hours, I seem to have the dreaded dust blobs or some other panel issue. I have what is essentially a starfield of smaller green and blue blobs. It is tough to see in the attached photo, but it is tough to photo a mostly back screen.


.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20809770
> 
> 
> nice pics, could you check your lens if its has some lines (like scrathes) on it while playing movie? i just wanna know if those lines are normal.



Hey Coopx,


You can see micro scratches it looks like on my lens, but I think they are smears that would come off with cleaner. Even if it is scratches, it does not affect my picture.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0

It is hard to get super close to the screen with my camera and hold still to take pictures of my convergence. Here are a few pictures I took. I would like some input on what you think.


Even if this is super bad convergence issues, I cannot tell when watching a movie or cable and those are the only two things I do on this projector. (besides my little girl playing Little Big Planet here and there).


So my question is if this is a bad convergence issue, would it really make a difference if I exchanged it out?


P.S. I have no dust blobs so far and everything else is flawless. You can see pictures I posted earlier in the post on page 168.


Thanks


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt Davis* /forum/post/20806866
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Harmony One remote with the 8350? It works for me, but when turning on an activity with the 8350 in it, the Harmony shows processing the commands for 30 seconds (even when it is the only device in the activity). Typically it takes 5 seconds for an activity to start (as with my previous projector, tv, etc...). Anyone else notice this 6x longer than normal start time? The 8350 starts instantly, it is just the remote that is lagging.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Matt



The 8350 "starts" instantly, but it won't accept any commands to switch the inputs during a warm-up period. If your remote is able to control the 8350 after the power-on delay, then count yourself lucky. My 8350 takes longer to accept commands than the Harmony remote's delay, so I have to manually re-send the command to switch to HDMI2, for instance, after I find out the 8350 didn't switch properly.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M1ll3rPh3n0* /forum/post/20811408
> 
> 
> It is hard to get super close to the screen with my camera and hold still to take pictures of my convergence. Here are a few pictures I took. I would like some input on what you think.
> 
> 
> Even if this is super bad convergence issues, I cannot tell when watching a movie or cable and those are the only two things I do on this projector. (besides my little girl playing Little Big Planet here and there).
> 
> 
> So my question is if this is a bad convergence issue, would it really make a difference if I exchanged it out?
> 
> 
> P.S. I have no dust blobs so far and everything else is flawless. You can see pictures I posted earlier in the post on page 168.
> 
> 
> Thanks



looks like we do have similar mis alignment, mine though is just 1 pixel, image quality on mine is still great but you will notice the mis aligned colors when you get close (4-5feet) and check the text from movies.


Anyway, i tried to clean the lens hoping i can remove those lines but after thorough inspection the lines are inside the lenses kinda like in between. I migh have to call their customer service and ask if thats normal which i doubt. Overall though my projector is doing a great job.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20803441
> 
> 
> Out of the box the 8350 image sharpness is very good but not great, on close up you will really see all the pores, wrinkles on the face, and its great on animated film like rango you'll be WoW, but on movies like Inception the sharpness becomes kinda fuzzy (720p like) when the shot is whole body. So i hope after 100 hours i can play with the sharpness setting.
> 
> 
> P.S also i noticed that sometimes there's a delay on sync, sounds will go first before the image. Im using PS3, it happens last night on my bluray Rango while playing the trailers, the PJ sounded like its changing color mode while it happens.



Hey Coopx,


those pictures of my convergence are on the left side of my screen. My right side is better. I believe it also has to do with my lens shift since I am shifting to the left quite a bit. I am more than likely going to keep mine because I do not want to play the exchange game with Amazon or Epson. I have been testing movies and on scenes that should be amazing they are superb quality to me (for instance Leeloo close up shot in Fifth Element before she jumps off building while escaping).


Also, having this big of a screen (100inch) I notice more mistakes on cameramen not completely focusing on their shot. I too have put on Inception and notice some minor sharpness issues on scenes; however, their are scenes on their that you can tell should be sharp and when they appear they are crystal sharp on my 8350. I hope your 8350 continues to satisfy your expectations and hopefully you do not get any dust blobs.


I believe most people take their convergence to the extreme. 10% of me is like this but the other 90% knows the picture cannot get much better if the convergence was a little better.


----------



## JakeCourtney

The room I have my projector in has fake wood paneling walls with a slight bit of that reflective gloss over them. I also have white drop down ceiling paneling.


I've got the 8350 shooting at a 120 inch screen at night. Are these slightly reflective walls hurting my black levels?


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M1ll3rPh3n0* /forum/post/20813460
> 
> 
> Hey Coopx,
> 
> 
> those pictures of my convergence are on the left side of my screen. My right side is better. I believe it also has to do with my lens shift since I am shifting to the left quite a bit. I am more than likely going to keep mine because I do not want to play the exchange game with Amazon or Epson. I have been testing movies and on scenes that should be amazing they are superb quality to me (for instance Leeloo close up shot in Fifth Element before she jumps off building while escaping).
> 
> 
> Also, having this big of a screen (100inch) I notice more mistakes on cameramen not completely focusing on their shot. I too have put on Inception and notice some minor sharpness issues on scenes; however, their are scenes on their that you can tell should be sharp and when they appear they are crystal sharp on my 8350. I hope your 8350 continues to satisfy your expectations and hopefully you do not get any dust blobs.
> 
> 
> I believe most people take their convergence to the extreme. 10% of me is like this but the other 90% knows the picture cannot get much better if the convergence was a little better.



actually the misaligned pixel doesnt bother me at all, image quality is still great (i dont even think it affects the image quality at all), the only thing that bother me is those lines inside the lenses so i called Epson Customer Service, but first of all what a great customer service they have, anyway so i called them and the representative will ship me a brand new unit to replace the one i have, will be here monday.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* /forum/post/20809587
> 
> 
> should i bite the bullet on the 8350 or wait for new models? Anyone have an idea of when they will be releasing the replacement models?



Buy the projector, but also consider the importance of a quality screen, such as the Stewart Firehawk. Projectors will advance over the years, but a quality screen will be ready for any upgrades.


I lived with the 8350 for two weeks and loved its capabilities; the unit outperforms my former PJ, which, four years ago, cost five times more.


I now have the 8700, which is better suited for my needs.


Here are some screenshots of the 8350 with minor calibration on a Firehawk 120" screen (the 8350 was 12 feet away).




























Good luck and enjoy!


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0

Hey Videonut,


Thanks for the images. I actually saw yours on amazon when I was researching. They helped me decide to pick the 8350 over hc4000. I didn't have the money to buy a Firehawk screen but next one I get will be one. Again, thanks.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20813514
> 
> 
> actually the misaligned pixel doesnt bother me at all, image quality is still great (i dont even think it affects the image quality at all), the only thing that bother me is those lines inside the lenses so i called Epson Customer Service, but first of all what a great customer service they have, anyway so i called them and the representative will ship me a brand new unit to replace the one i have, will be here monday.



Awesome. Hope your new one works for you.


----------



## JakeCourtney

How are you getting those blacks on the 8350? My contrast is terrible with almost grey blacks. I'm using a cheap $160 Elite 120" screen I ordered off Amazon. My room does have fake wood paneling that is some what glossy. I'm sure that bounces a lot of extra light around.


----------



## luclin999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20813903
> 
> 
> How are you getting those blacks on the 8350? My contrast is terrible with almost grey blacks. I'm using a cheap $160 Elite 120" screen I ordered off Amazon. My room does have fake wood paneling that is some what glossy. I'm sure that bounces a lot of extra light around.



Light reflections will impact contrast, there is just no getting around that.


The big question is have you had the projector calibrated for the screen and room your are viewing it in? That can have a considerable impact on the overall contrast and black levels in the picture.


----------



## JakeCourtney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luclin999* /forum/post/20814260
> 
> 
> Light reflections will impact contrast, there is just no getting around that.
> 
> 
> The big question is have you had the projector calibrated for the screen and room your are viewing it in? That can have a considerable impact on the overall contrast and black levels in the picture.



Zero calibration - Pretty much out of the box.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20814368
> 
> 
> Zero calibration - Pretty much out of the box.



try to google "art calibration for 8350" looks good on mine, i also have cream wall paint so it reflects a lot of light from the projected image


----------



## newowner1234

Hello,

I'm very new to AVS and a new owner of the epson 8350. Can some one tell me a) the desired screen for about 500 -800 people b)to be able to take notes what should the setting of a room be c) what color should I purchase in the screen.


I want to use it in a church setting, with the lights low but visible to see others at least 4-5 feet away. If anyone can help me, I'd very much appreciate it.


----------



## OSUDesi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *newowner1234* 
Hello,

I'm very new to AVS and a new owner of the epson 8350. Can some one tell me a) the desired screen for about 500 -800 people b)to be able to take notes what should the setting of a room be c) what color should I purchase in the screen.


I want to use it in a church setting, with the lights low but visible to see others at least 4-5 feet away. If anyone can help me, I'd very much appreciate it.
Epson provides a handy online image size calculator to help figure it all out.

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ 


However, it does not consider usage type, lighting conditions, etc. that factor in to you max screen size/throw distance (distance between projector and screen). You mentioned that it is for a church setting with low light. That will automatically cut down your image size/throw distance considerably. From my personal experience, you can get a 100" image with decent quality with a 15' throw distance in the lighting conditions that you described no problem. In my opinion, you could go up to 120" (15' throw distance" before you really compromise image quality. As for screen color, for your usage, I'd recommend going with white with a gain of 1.0 or higher.


----------



## slybarman

I tried Art's calibration settings. It seemed like it was pushing a little bit red to me.


----------



## Matt Davis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsmollin* /forum/post/20812583
> 
> 
> The 8350 "starts" instantly, but it won't accept any commands to switch the inputs during a warm-up period. If your remote is able to control the 8350 after the power-on delay, then count yourself lucky. My 8350 takes longer to accept commands than the Harmony remote's delay, so I have to manually re-send the command to switch to HDMI2, for instance, after I find out the 8350 didn't switch properly.




I did find a setting under the device, it was at 30000ms. I suppose it is waiting this long to send the input selection, which does require a long delay- however, I only use one input, so it never changes.


Thanks,

Matt


----------



## TyTimp

I'm thinking of picking up the 8345 but don't know if I should wait until the new models come out. I thought new models come out in the falls but I came across a promo for a free lamp with the purchase of the 8700 between September 27, 2010 and March 31, 2012. This makes me think that new models will get released in the spring. Anyone have any idea when new models come out?


----------



## jason21378

i just bought a epson 8350 this is my first projector i have a 92'' dragonfly screen when should i clean lens and check filter i built a shelf for my projector.


----------



## The Sandman

^^^ cant answer your question but perfect timing let me know how the game tonight looks on that. Im hoping to get one in the coming months. If they made it to the super bowl that might have expedited the process haha.


----------



## lespurgeon

TyTimp,

New models will be announced in September, should ship a month or 2 later.


----------



## [email protected]

Just picked up my 8350 on Saturday from BB. I replaced my faithful Mits hc1500 that was giving me bulb warnings at 2300 hours, and was making funny squeeling noises from the color wheel. Didn't wanna spend any money on a replacement bulb to keep hearing that horrible noise.


It's ceiling mounted about 11' away from a 92" Elitle ezFrame Cinewhite screen. I'm extremely happy with my choice and am glad to finally be enjoying my blu-rays at 1080p. I haven't had any noticeable problems yet with about 12 hours logged. Hopefully it stays that way. Gonna be doing some calibration tonight using the info from this thread.


----------



## jacampbell

I have a question. Has anyone hooked up via component on this pj? I want replace my Sanyo Z3 but I don't want to have to upgrade my receiver to one with HDMI due to the cash required. Any comments on the image quality or other via component would be great.


----------



## Varth Dader

Hi guys, very new to the forum here and looking for some help. I just got the 8350 last week for a dedicated theater room in a basement in a new home being built. It should be finished by the end of Oct. The room is 14'x21' with 8.5' ceilings. I want to ceiling mount this projector and have a 120" to 140" screen. When i go to epson's calculator its showing my projector has to be like 5' down from the ceiling!! Is this right? I would like to mount it 6-8" from the ceiling 14' away and use the lens shift to lower the picture to the screen. Will that work or do you have to mount them that low?


----------



## invadergir




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jacampbell* /forum/post/20830130
> 
> 
> I have a question. Has anyone hooked up via component on this pj? I want replace my Sanyo Z3 but I don't want to have to upgrade my receiver to one with HDMI due to the cash required. Any comments on the image quality or other via component would be great.



Why not just plug your device to the projector with the HDMI and use an optical cable for your sound? Doing so with my Cogeco cable box to my 8350 because i ran out of HDMI connections on my Onkyo 605


----------



## gsmollin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jacampbell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question. Has anyone hooked up via component on this pj? I want replace my Sanyo Z3 but I don't want to have to upgrade my receiver to one with HDMI due to the cash required. Any comments on the image quality or other via component would be great.



I use component on an old broadcast tuner, and the Epson upscales 720p and 1080i to 1080p. The picture looks pretty good, better than my old Infocus. Sorry, but no more details.


----------



## M1ll3rPh3n0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Varth Dader* /forum/post/20831477
> 
> 
> Hi guys, very new to the forum here and looking for some help. I just got the 8350 last week for a dedicated theater room in a basement in a new home being built. It should be finished by the end of Oct. The room is 14'x21' with 8.5' ceilings. I want to ceiling mount this projector and have a 120" to 140" screen. When i go to epson's calculator its showing my projector has to be like 5' down from the ceiling!! Is this right? I would like to mount it 6-8" from the ceiling 14' away and use the lens shift to lower the picture to the screen. Will that work or do you have to mount them that low?



You do not have to mount 5 feet down. The calculator can be tricky sometimes on Epson's website. You will be able to mount your preferred 6-8" and use lens shift. Just remember, if you use a lot of lens shift, when you focus your 8350 you might see that it is slightly off on one side of the screen or top or bottom depending on what direction you shift.


I shifted my picture to the left almost all the way and the left side of my screen is slightly off when focusing the picture. It does not affect the picture quality though.


Enjoy! You will love this projector!


----------



## frankie2075

hey guys im thinking of buying my first projector and making it a epson 8350. what are a couple of good screens i can look at? Dont want to spend more then 600$ on the screen. i would like it to be 100in ish Dia. if possible. thanks


----------



## joepaiii

Bought my 8350 on 8/13/11, upgraded from a optoma hd70. Absolutely love the placement options and the picture quality is much better.


I dug out my calibration disk and got to a screen that has some fine text on the four side of the screen along with the middle. I am having trouble getting the right side of screen image to focus. I can get the top, bottom, left and middle crystal clear. I tried turning the pj slightly to see if that helped and it did not. I am using no left/right lense shift and very little vertical. The screen is 100" and I am at 14 feet so I am about in the middle of the zoom. I haven't checked the convergence but most of the patterns I check look pretty good (I didn't notice any real color shifts are the lines). I did notice that when I zoom the lens to produce the largest image, the focus seems more consistent. Should I take it back to the store and exchange for another unit? Can I get a razor sharp focus across the entire screen with this projector?


Thanks

Joe


Also - have problems with dust blobs gotten better or worse? I have been looking through this thread and read a bunch but it is a HUGE thread...


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20835324
> 
> 
> hey guys im thinking of buying my first projector and making it a epson 8350. what are a couple of good screens i can look at? Dont want to spend more then 600$ on the screen. i would like it to be 100in ish Dia. if possible. thanks



That's a good start but need more details. Do you want one that is fixed or one that is retractable? If retractable, do you want one that is manual or electric? If electric, do you want one that can be operated via remote? What are the characteristics of the room (windows, basement, light level, curtains, etc...)?


----------



## frankie2075

hey OSUDesi it is in a basment and it is very dark. walls are a dark gray. i would like a retractable one or fixed. prefer a retractable electric if possible at that price range. i have a plasma on the wall now where the screen would be hung. i was thinking of just making the screen come down in front of the plasma when i want to watch a movie.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20837028
> 
> 
> hey OSUDesi it is in a basment and it is very dark. walls are a dark gray. i would like a retractable one or fixed. prefer a retractable electric if possible at that price range. i have a plasma on the wall now where the screen would be hung. i was thinking of just making the screen come down in front of the plasma when i want to watch a movie.



Check Favi HD-100 electric screen, thats the one im using and im really loving it.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20837028
> 
> 
> hey OSUDesi it is in a basment and it is very dark. walls are a dark gray. i would like a retractable one or fixed. prefer a retractable electric if possible at that price range. i have a plasma on the wall now where the screen would be hung. i was thinking of just making the screen come down in front of the plasma when i want to watch a movie.



I can only speak from my experience, so take that for what it's worth. I purchased a 100" CineTension2 screen from Elite Screens and I'm very happy with it. They offer good quality screens at a very good value. Their VMAX2 or Home2 series of electric screens are in your price range. They offer numerous configurations, so make sure to look at their list of model numbers on their website to find exactly what you want. I'm assuming you're looking into a 100" screen with at 16:9 aspect ratio? If so, each series offers 2 models to choose from.


----------



## lakersin2025

800 hours and 7 months later and mine is still going strong as the day I got it. I keep it in eco mode with iris off and max lens shift throwing about 122" from 12 feet away.


----------



## KBone

New to the forum. Been lurking and reading as much as I can.


One question I haven't found the answer to...


What ceiling mount to use?


I've got a drop ceiling if that makes any kind of difference. Won't be an issue to remove the tile and gain access to the space above.


----------



## freestylemx989

So hey everyone. I recently purchased the 8350. I love it. However..the width of the room is 11 ft. This means that I've had to zoom the projector all the way out and it still wont fit my 120 inch screen. What would you suggest? Will the 8700UB be the same way? Should I downgrade to a 100 inch screen? I just purchased the 8350 with a 120 inch elite manual screen from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHLB88 


Any suggestions?


Sorry-I'm just new to this. I've read all of the pages of this thread and most of the 8700 thread, but I'm still having trouble here.


Thanks!


----------



## OSUDesi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* 
So hey everyone. I recently purchased the 8350. I love it. However..the width of the room is 11 ft. This means that I've had to zoom the projector all the way out and it still wont fit my 120 inch screen. What would you suggest? Will the 8700UB be the same way? Should I downgrade to a 100 inch screen? I just purchased the 8350 with a 120 inch elite manual screen from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHLB88 


Any suggestions?


Sorry-I'm just new to this. I've read all of the pages of this thread and most of the 8700 thread, but I'm still having trouble here.


Thanks!
If I'm reading this correctly, you're saying that throw distance (from projector to screen) is 11ft? If so, then you'll have the same problem with the 8700. Your screen is too big for that distance. Before I bought my Elite Screen, I used their distance calculator .


According to the calculator, you would need around another foot of throw distance to fill up the 120" properly.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* /forum/post/20840788
> 
> 
> So hey everyone. I recently purchased the 8350. I love it. However..the width of the room is 11 ft. This means that I've had to zoom the projector all the way out and it still wont fit my 120 inch screen. What would you suggest? Will the 8700UB be the same way? Should I downgrade to a 100 inch screen? I just purchased the 8350 with a 120 inch elite manual screen from amazon.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHLB88
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sorry-I'm just new to this. I've read all of the pages of this thread and most of the 8700 thread, but I'm still having trouble here.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



yeah minimum is atleast 12' throw for a 120" screen, best way is to downgrade it to 110" below


----------



## joepaiii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joepaiii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bought my 8350 on 8/13/11, upgraded from a optoma hd70. Absolutely love the placement options and the picture quality is much better.
> 
> 
> I dug out my calibration disk and got to a screen that has some fine text on the four side of the screen along with the middle. I am having trouble getting the right side of screen image to focus. I can get the top, bottom, left and middle crystal clear. I tried turning the pj slightly to see if that helped and it did not. I am using no left/right lense shift and very little vertical. The screen is 100" and I am at 14 feet so I am about in the middle of the zoom. I haven't checked the convergence but most of the patterns I check look pretty good (I didn't notice any real color shifts are the lines). I did notice that when I zoom the lens to produce the largest image, the focus seems more consistent. Should I take it back to the store and exchange for another unit? Can I get a razor sharp focus across the entire screen with this projector?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> Also - have problems with dust blobs gotten better or worse? I have been looking through this thread and read a bunch but it is a HUGE thread...



Anyone? Really trying to decide on trying another out or just living with what I have.


Thanks and sorry for the double post just interested in opinions.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joepaiii* /forum/post/20843085
> 
> 
> Anyone? Really trying to decide on trying another out or just living with what I have.
> 
> 
> Thanks and sorry for the double post just interested in opinions.



mines focus perfectly, and my PJ is located on the left side towards the screen, i suggest you exchanged it to the store on where you bought it.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JakeCourtney* /forum/post/20813903
> 
> 
> How are you getting those blacks on the 8350? My contrast is terrible with almost grey blacks. I'm using a cheap $160 Elite 120" screen I ordered off Amazon. My room does have fake wood paneling that is some what glossy. I'm sure that bounces a lot of extra light around.




Calibration and a quality screen are key to obtaining a deep black level.


As you can see, my room (still under construction) does not have dark walls, and I still get Jet Blacks with great shadow detail; even when not in total darkness.











Here is the calibration disc that is key to an awesome setup:

http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor...3795679&sr=1-1 

How important is a screen? Check out this comparison of a Firehawk compared to another brand:


----------



## viper98912

Just watched Despicable Me last night, it's definitely an awesome animated movie that shows the colors and sharpness of 1080p on a large screen with full 16x9.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videonut* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> How important is a screen? Check out this comparison of a Firehawk compared to another brand:



What was the color and gain of each screen in that comparison? Was it apples/apples?


----------



## neonflx

thinking about getting this projector, i have a 19' x 25' room and while the carpet is a dark grey and the walls are painted on a dark color i have a huge window that will be facing the screen directly i plan on getting some curtains but at times the curtains may be open while using the projector


what is a good screen i can purchase for my situation my budget is up to 2k for the screen


thanks


----------



## thizzle

I'm about to dive into the world of projectors and this unit looks quite appealing for it's low price and apparently excellent performance.


My question is about suitability: my living room is a cream/off-white colour, dimensions are 10x20. I don't currently have curtains to blot out the sun, but will be getting those shortly to darken the room as much as possible.

I want to mount the 8350 on a shelf on the back wall, and throw the image the full 20' to 100" screen mounted on the opposite wall.


How do you this will perform? I'm considering the Elite ezFrame 100" screen.


Thanks!


----------



## kawie01

Recently bought epson 8350 projector. THis is my first projector so I'll have loads of questions to post in the near future. A couple now though.


1.) why is the cinema mode dark? compared to other settings.


2.) Has anyone had luck using their harmony one remote on the accuscreens? Have it programmed, but no response with harmony.


Help is greatly appreciated


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thizzle* /forum/post/20848206
> 
> 
> I'm about to dive into the world of projectors and this unit looks quite appealing for it's low price and apparently excellent performance.
> 
> 
> My question is about suitability: my living room is a cream/off-white colour, dimensions are 10x20. I don't currently have curtains to blot out the sun, but will be getting those shortly to darken the room as much as possible.
> 
> I want to mount the 8350 on a shelf on the back wall, and throw the image the full 20' to 100" screen mounted on the opposite wall.
> 
> 
> How do you this will perform? I'm considering the Elite ezFrame 100" screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You should use the placement software at Epson.com to be sure.


I have mine on the back wall (actually a bar counter) at 18ft. I project to the wall above the fireplace at 96" diag. (8 ft). I could zoom bigger but I put the center speaker on the mantel. It's an open design room with lots of windows. We have wooden blinds that do NOT mask all light during the day. We run Dynamic or Natural mode during the day and Cinema at night (with Contrast and Brightness bumped up a bit) . Works fine ... you can also switch from Eco to Normal mode and it gets even brighter.


Granted, we also have a 46" plasma that we mostly use during the day (only because it's fairly new and already in place). Almost all dusk and night viewing is on the projector.


As long as you make an attempt the control the light, brightness at that distance shouldn't be a problem. With darkening curtains it really shouldn't be a problem (even during the day). The Epson software will tell you for sure if you can zoom down to only 100" diag at that long distance.


This projector is very bright and has an awesome lense that makes placement very flexible ... nothing like my brother's DLP Optima.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neonflx* /forum/post/20847214
> 
> 
> thinking about getting this projector, i have a 19' x 25' room and while the carpet is a dark grey and the walls are painted on a dark color i have a huge window that will be facing the screen directly i plan on getting some curtains but at times the curtains may be open while using the projector
> 
> 
> what is a good screen i can purchase for my situation my budget is up to 2k for the screen
> 
> 
> thanks



I can't help with the screen question, but I'll offer some advice ...


You have to at least *try* to control the light. Leaving the curtain open during the day is self-defeating. If you must, maybe you would like to buy a plasma or LCD to use during the day (for casual viewing)?


I too would like to hear from the more experienced projector owners here about the best screens for poor light conditions ... but I don't think a nice screen helps much with too much light. I think it will just reflect more light, including the sun-light.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/20848236
> 
> 
> Recently bought epson 8350 projector. THis is my first projector so I'll have loads of questions to post in the near future. A couple now though.
> 
> 
> 1.) why is the cinema mode dark? compared to other settings.
> 
> 
> 2.) Has anyone had luck using their harmony one remote on the accuscreens? Have it programmed, but no response with harmony.
> 
> 
> Help is greatly appreciated




The cinema mode is Epson's calibrated mode for the D65 standard. Out the box this mode should give you overall the best color and contrast.Sounds like you are a brightness freak like me.You'll have to use one of the other modes if the cinema mode isn't bright enough for you, but you'll lose a little color accuracy and contrast.


Brighter and more accurate color at D65 is what you pay for as you move up the line with projectors in general.


----------



## kawie01

Thanks Joesyah,


Yea, I do like it some what bright. Bot not dynamic bright. Living room seems to be the best mode for me now. I. Haven't messed with calibration because I have yet to mount pj. What is/are the opinion(s) on accuscreens? I know that they are low priced and entry level.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/20847178
> 
> 
> What was the color and gain of each screen in that comparison? Was it apples/apples?



Hi,

You can read the screen details here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/Stew...k/proscons.php 


All I can say is that I get Ink Black even when I allow some ambient light to seep into the room. Believe me, I'm not here to push any particular brands, but I am willing to share some very costly information that I've gleaned over the past two decades while searching for the true Home Theater experience.


After two decades of Selecos, Runcos and Vidikrons, I've finally realized true success last month with a projector that I'd actually scoffed at when it was first suggested to me. My point is this: over the years I've waisted a lot of money listening to the "fanboys" and always assuming that higher-priced gear had to be the best way to go. This has all changed now with the very dramatic changes now taking place with current technology.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thizzle* /forum/post/20848206
> 
> 
> I'm about to dive into the world of projectors and this unit looks quite appealing for it's low price and apparently excellent performance.
> 
> 
> My question is about suitability: my living room is a cream/off-white colour, dimensions are 10x20. I don't currently have curtains to blot out the sun, but will be getting those shortly to darken the room as much as possible.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Room darkening curtains can be another painful journey. After going crazy with various brands caliming to be 99% light free, I finally hit on a company that has curtains which are 100% light free, and they cost half of what the specialty shops and department stores are asking.


I hung these up two weeks ago and they fully block sunlight:


Thermalogic Media Blackout grommet-top Curtains

http://www.eldridgetextile.com/Media...gic-p/4002.htm


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/20849457
> 
> 
> Thanks Joesyah,
> 
> 
> Yea, I do like it some what bright. Bot not dynamic bright. Living room seems to be the best mode for me now. I. Haven't messed with calibration because I have yet to mount pj. What is/are the opinion(s) on accuscreens? I know that they are low priced and entry level.



Accuscreens are pretty good imo. I would recommend the screens sold by visualapex http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-...=HT&Category=2 . I helped a friend install his recently.It was the easiest screen I've assembled and turned out very well! It took him and I less than 30 minutes to assemble it.The jamestown was a nightmare! Hopefully his design has gotten better.


I've assembled jamestown, favi,stewart and Vapex. The Vapex was a breeze and looked great. The Favi had the highest gain of them all. Go with a fixed screen if you can.

Monoprice has some nice fixed and multi format screens. http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10829


----------



## thizzle

I've used the Epson calculator web site to calculate that for my 100" projected image, the throw can be anywhere from 9' 9" to 20' 10" so it looks like my configuration would work (about 19.5ft throw).


Is there any quality difference between the 9' 9" throw and the 20' 10" throw? Is the image brighter with a shorter throw? If so, it might be worth considering a ceiling mount in the middle of the ceiling (at 10' for example) instead of a shelf mount on the back wall 20' feet away. The only reason I don't want to ceiling mount is because I live in a rental apartment and I suspect running cables through the ceiling would be difficult to install and to repair when moving, but I could potentially setup a cable raceway system to route the cables.


----------



## joeags

You could try the mirror method that I remember reading about in the past. Basically, you are placing the projector closer to the screen, but are aiming it towards the back wall, and reflecting it back towards the screen. This would give you the distance that you need. I have not done this before, but I do remember reading about it.


Can anyone verify this or give additional advice?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *freestylemx989* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So hey everyone. I recently purchased the 8350. I love it. However..the width of the room is 11 ft. This means that I've had to zoom the projector all the way out and it still wont fit my 120 inch screen. What would you suggest? Will the 8700UB be the same way? Should I downgrade to a 100 inch screen? I just purchased the 8350 with a 120 inch elite manual screen from amazon.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHLB88
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sorry-I'm just new to this. I've read all of the pages of this thread and most of the 8700 thread, but I'm still having trouble here.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thizzle* /forum/post/20850668
> 
> 
> I've used the Epson calculator web site to calculate that for my 100" projected image, the throw can be anywhere from 9' 9" to 20' 10" so it looks like my configuration would work (about 19.5ft throw).
> 
> 
> Is there any quality difference between the 9' 9" throw and the 20' 10" throw? Is the image brighter with a shorter throw? If so, it might be worth considering a ceiling mount in the middle of the ceiling (at 10' for example) instead of a shelf mount on the back wall 20' feet away. The only reason I don't want to ceiling mount is because I live in a rental apartment and I suspect running cables through the ceiling would be difficult to install and to repair when moving, but I could potentially setup a cable raceway system to route the cables.



Yes your image will be much brighter at the shorter throw distance. You gain a little more contrast at the longer throw.


----------



## rmclain73

I have had my 8350 for just over a week now. I have watched a couple of movies, and a few hours of tv on it, yet the lamp hours still reads 0. I am seeing this when I go to info in the menu setting. Any ideas?


EDIT: I got it, after 10 it shows up.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/20848236
> 
> 
> Recently bought epson 8350 projector. THis is my first projector so I'll have loads of questions to post in the near future. A couple now though.
> 
> 
> 1.) why is the cinema mode dark? compared to other settings.
> 
> 
> 2.) Has anyone had luck using their harmony one remote on the accuscreens? Have it programmed, but no response with harmony.
> 
> 
> Help is greatly appreciated



I had an issue with my Harmony One not reliably controlling my Elite Screen. I'm sure it could have been solved by messing with the settings, but decided to utilize the 12V trigger that the screen had and hook it up to the trigger input of the Epson 8350. Now whenever my projector turns on/off, my screen goes down/up along with it flawlessly because the screen itself doesn't rely on any IR commands. Your screen has a 12V trigger as well, so you should be able to do this as well.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/20848236
> 
> 
> Recently bought epson 8350 projector. THis is my first projector so I'll have loads of questions to post in the near future. A couple now though.
> 
> 
> 2.) Has anyone had luck using their harmony one remote on the accuscreens? Have it programmed, but no response with harmony.



First, be sure it's not just a range or line-of-sight problem.


Then, setup the Screen as a new device. Manually record the IR button signals into the Harmony (just to make sure they are the right ones). Use the special settings (forget if it's on the Device or Activity) that says ... "Leave on" or don't control it's power automatically.


At this point, it should work from the "Device" button menu.


Add the screen to the "Watch Disc" activity. Add the screen's "Power Toggle" to the Activity Menu (should send up on the LCD). If that manual control works, you can setup a macro that combines it with the projector's power toggle.


----------



## KBone

Still looking for suggestions or recommendations on a ceiling mount.


Any one better than others?


----------



## flutie98




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBone* /forum/post/20852245
> 
> 
> Still looking for suggestions or recommendations on a ceiling mount.
> 
> 
> Any one better than others?



PCMD All-Metal Projector Ceiling Mount for Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 of Amazon


I just ordered this myself. Looks like the best mid range no BS solution.


----------



## Benito Joaquin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBone* /forum/post/20852245
> 
> 
> Still looking for suggestions or recommendations on a ceiling mount.
> 
> 
> Any one better than others?



We tend to go with Chief mounts for most if not all projectors. Cost a little more than others. But, we rarely have problems with Chief mounts so we tend to recommend them.


Benito


----------



## bhurlbert

Well, after about 9 months of usage on my 8350, I got the "Flashing Red Lamp Light". It did not give any discernible warning, just a long startup this morning with a flashing Power Light and no lamp output. Finally after a few minutes, it went to a Flashing Red Lamp Light. So, I called Epson PrivateLine Tech Support and they were very courteous; asked about how many hours were on the lamp; the serial number and my phone number. They were able to find my record (I had my first projector DOA showing only a red blob on the screen) and confirmed my address. They then transferred me to the Ordering Department where they reconfirmed my address and said that the new lamp should be here by tomorrow. So far I have been fairly pleased with the performance and Epson's Customer Support.


I think I had around 1,500 hours on the lamp, I don't remember and since I can't fire up the projector, I can't check it. It has become the primary big screen TV for the den home theater. Maybe I can get a big screen plasma before the warranty runs out on the projector, I was concerned about the hours my boys were putting on the projector for general TV viewing.


How many other 8350 owners have experienced premature lamp failure? Sounds like Epson has been having some issues with lamp life. Is there a second generation of lamps that is addressing this if it is a problem? I assume that this will resolve the issue and hopefully I will get more hours out of the next lamp.


----------



## TimeLord517

I've had my 8350 for a week now. I've got a VERY janky "raised up behind the sofa" setup (it is in no way permanent, or very solid...). I think I'd like to ceiling mount it so that I can play Wii / Kinect games without being in the way of the projected image. The problem is that I have a ceiling fan between the wall and the projector. What's a good, inexpensive, mount that drops the projector between 14 and 20 inches (roughly)?


Also, thinking way down the road - where do you guys usually end up buying replacement bulbs for your projectors?


----------



## Speqtre

What's the buzz about Epson replacing the 8350 this year? Will they pull a 'Panasonic' and keep it going for another year before updating it, or are they typically refreshing their pjs annually?


----------



## JakeCourtney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speqtre* /forum/post/20853127
> 
> 
> What's the buzz about Epson replacing the 8350 this year? Will they pull a 'Panasonic' and keep it going for another year before updating it, or are they typically refreshing their pjs annually?



I'm ready to pull the trigger on a projector, but I'm waiting for an announcement of a new projector first I guess.


----------



## kawie01

Thanks OSUDesi and Tesla1856,


I will try the device method, I am trying not to use the trigger method as to avoid anymore holes.


----------



## sat24

Some pictures of my setup - Epson 8350, Jamestown 110" High contrast Grey screen, about 11' viewing distance.















































skin tones


----------



## Lukedog17

Sat24,


I assume you are liking the set up? This is exactly what I am looking to do (except at 12'). Why did you go with the "gray high contrast"? I was looking at a Jamestown screen as well (110").


Luke


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Lukedog17* 
Sat24,


I assume you are liking the set up? This is exactly what I am looking to do (except at 12'). Why did you go with the "gray high contrast"? I was looking at a Jamestown screen as well (110").


Luke
I'm not "He" but what with the 8350's higher lumens, the depth of the Black levels are not as deep as many would have them to be.


Using a reflective Gray Screen (...at least 1.0 gain) helps restore the perception that the PJ is outputting deeper Blacks and has a wider range id contrast.


Like this:





























That can be especially important if any ambient light is present, as is illustrated in the images above, that show the difference between a White surface and a darker Gray sample shown in both High and Low ambient light


----------



## deez

 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824997585 



Will this mount work?


----------



## Kiddikop

This was a very useful post...it really helped me visualize the gray screen effect. Thanks!!!


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deez* /forum/post/20857397
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824997585
> 
> 
> 
> Will this mount work?



It should it looks about the same as the one I have. I've used it for three different pj's. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


mark


----------



## sat24




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lukedog17* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sat24,
> 
> 
> I assume you are liking the set up? This is exactly what I am looking to do (except at 12'). Why did you go with the "gray high contrast"? I was looking at a Jamestown screen as well (110").
> 
> 
> Luke



Hi luke - yes, i am really liking it so far. The screen took several hours to put together, mostly the stretching part - i think you have to do that regardless of the screen manufacturer.


I got the grey screen to enhance contrast perceived... I got samples from jamestown and compared long and hard before making the choice. Also e grey screen is only 0.8 gain, so consider that as well. Given the projector is pretty bright, this doesnt seem to matter so far - in fact, i am surprised at how bright this is even in Cinema mode on this screen. Also see earlier posts from me about the comparison photos i posted.


Let me know if you have any morw questions...


----------



## Lukedog17

SAT24 - Thanks for the reply.


MM - awesome comparison shots, thanks a lot!


Luke


----------



## slybarman

As others have mentioned, it is pretty obvious to me that Epson does no QC on replacements before they send them out to customers. They sent me one that puts a big blue bar across the bottom 1/16th of the screen. There is no way any QC at all could have missed this. They must just play a shell game of sending defects to other customers until the customer gets one they can live with. I am annoyed and disappointed. They are sending another replacement. I hope they are not wasting more of my time. If I get another dog, I am done with Epson.


----------



## Hugme1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not "He" but what with the 8350's higher lumens, the depth of the Black levels are not as deep as many would have them to be.
> 
> 
> Using a reflective Gray Screen (...at least 1.0 gain) helps restore the perception that the PJ is outputting deeper Blacks and has a wider range id contrast.
> 
> 
> Like this:
> 
> 
> That can be especially important if any ambient light is present, as is illustrated in the images above, that show the difference between a White surface and a darker Gray sample shown in both High and Low ambient light



Thanks for the pics. That was a big difference.


Question why get a white screen at all ? It looks like the gray is way better. Is it a colors are off thing? (I'm just trying to learn more thanks )


----------



## lespurgeon

Because in a really dark room, the white screen gives much better color representation. Gray can correct for some ambient light.


----------



## deez

Just got my unit set up. If I use lens shift will it affect picture quality in any way? I'm using lens shift up/down just a little. And the side to side as I'm using as well.

I'm coming from a Optoma HD20 and the picture quality is good but really different from dlp for sure.

Picture doesn't seem as sharp to me and I wanted to make sure it didn't have anything to do with using lens shift.


Thanks


----------



## gsmollin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *deez* 
Just got my unit set up. If I use lens shift will it affect picture quality in any way? I'm using lens shift up/down just a little. And the side to side as I'm using as well.

I'm coming from a Optoma HD20 and the picture quality is good but really different from dlp for sure.

Picture doesn't seem as sharp to me and I wanted to make sure it didn't have anything to do with using lens shift.


Thanks
"Just a little" lens shift does not affect sharpness. However, you can see it yourself by temporarily siting the PJ so lens shift is centered. Single-chip DLP has the sharpest picture because there are no convergence errors. Any 3-chip system suffers convergence errors that give smeared edges, and a perceived lower sharpness.


----------



## deez

What's a little, like in inches?


----------



## deez

So, now that I've calibrated it(using Arts settings) and watched a variety of material here is what I see:

HD Dish looks good but a small step below the hd20

Xbox looks sharper and brighter

Bluray looks phenomenal and definately better that the optoma. A very big step up!


I'm very pleased so far with this upgrade.


----------



## lespurgeon

deez,

Lens shift up to 10% should have no effect, I think it is over about 50% of the available shift where you could start having real negative effects.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deez* /forum/post/20872784
> 
> 
> Just got my unit set up. If I use lens shift will it affect picture quality in any way? I'm using lens shift up/down just a little. And the side to side as I'm using as well.
> 
> I'm coming from a Optoma HD20 and the picture quality is good but really different from dlp for sure.
> 
> Picture doesn't seem as sharp to me and I wanted to make sure it didn't have anything to do with using lens shift.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes picture is not that sharp, compare to DLP, Plasma and LCD TV. Though you'll be wow once the object on the image is being focus, for example the starting scene on Resident Evil Extinction, the detail of alice eye is incredible, whole body shot though you'll see its kinda blurry, kinda like 720p. But overall its still a great projector to have. Im not sure if lense shift affect image quality, im not quite sure of that.


----------



## deez

The side to side is now at zero. I just moved screen over. The up and down has no discernable "Zero", meaning no click when it hits zero. I am now trying to get more pop out of image. I'm looking for guidance on these settings:

1-Should I use advanced sharpness?

2- What does the different color settings do?

3- What setting should I use for the Iris control?


Thanks.


----------



## razorxl

Just got my 8350 yesterday and set her up last night on a nice omnimount single glass shelf others have mentioned. That, to me, is a perfect mount. I was going to set the projector to the far left back of my 14ft wide room, but the lens shift did not accommodate that much movement to the right. I'm very happy with the mount and setup though.


Coming from an older cheap acer 720p Dlp that lasted me 5 years, I'm in awe of the quality of this PJ. I haven't calibrated colors or anything yet, but I'm very happy with it so far.


Question, I have it in eco mode for power consumption. When I try a color mode like dynamic or living room, the fan kicks in really high, and there's a noticeable motorized movement that happens. Is this normal? Am I burning the bulb at full power consumption because of this mode? I'll probably hardly ever use it, as it's way too bright for my needs, but just wondering if using those modes negate the Eco mode on the power consumption.


Now all I need is some nice blu-ray content and a player. I've been lacking on the media front and just using Netflix and bulk through the xbox for HD content.


----------



## MississippiMan

razorxl,


Yes, anytime you switch over to Dynamic or Living Room (...the 8350's brightest modes...) the lamp resets to "Normal"


----------



## deez

Also, what's the difference between High speed, Normal and off concerning the iris? What's the best setting?


----------



## msbklipsch

razorxl

i placed my 8350 on a stand (home made) to the left

so the lens shift to get the picture over to the right side hardly made it

had to move over my 8350 a few inches

projecting onto an 92" matte white screen (Draper Luma)

they claim the 8350 has great lens shifting capabilities but not as great as i would have thought it was

since this is my first FP so nothing to compare to


----------



## msbklipsch

Sat24,


curious about the seating area you have

can you send a pic of this part of your HT area

my situation the couch is on the side wall and a wide chair is on the back wall

my 8350 is sitting on a homemade stand next to the chair

i never posted a pic before and will try later on today


----------



## TimeLord517

I'm still loving my 8350 after a couple of weeks (although the 30' cable I bought from MonoPrice decided to die the other day)


The image is gorgeous - probably about 110" from 14' feet away or so (middle of the road zoom). I found that I like the X.V.Color mode for everything (PS3, Roku, Apple TV v2).


For a while I was using a couple of boxes to get it about 5' off the ground. I then splurged on the "official" mount from Epson for a permanent mounting solution. I know I could have saved a ton of money by going with a different mount, but I kept reading "I had to modify" reviews for everything out there, so decided the extra cost was worth it for something that was guaranteed to fit / work.


I got it ceiling mounted this past weekend. It's about 12' to the wall that I'm projecting on, but with the zoom it's still as big as ever (granted, it is on the further end of the zoom, but not 100%). The lens shift works wonderfully, as I had to use a little left / right as well as some up / down. The only "bad" thing about my room setup is that there's a ceiling fan right in the middle of everything, so the image isn't as large as it could be (any higher on the wall, and the blades of the fan are noticeable).


I bought some "Austin Microsuede Blackout Energy-Efficient Curtain Panels," and the difference is like night and day! With them in place, I can get an _almost_ pitch black room. There's just a little bit of light leakage from the 4 sides of the curtains, but it's nothing I can't deal with.


So far, I don't regret buying the 8350 at all!


----------



## MississippiMan

Once more...for the record.


The Chief RPA 168 projector-specific Mount is hands down the best possible solution. You'll never see "I had to modify...' mentioned when referring to the RPA 168


Is it the least expensive Mount you could get to use? No.


Is it the most adaptable, the most cosmetic, the most sturdy, the most adjustable mount you could hope to find for ANY Epson 8000 series PJ? ....yes to every one.


Fergudnessakes peoples....don't fudge out over spending another $60-80.00 more for a dedicated Mount and wind up using something akin to a Frankenstein Monster with Bolts, Rails, Universal joints, and Ball Sockets.


Also, get your "Uber HIGH QUALITY" v1.4 HDMI cables from this source:


Compatible Cables http://www.compatiblecable.com/ 

$1.00 ft Flat HDMI cabels too!.

sizes

1.5'

3'

6'

10'

15'

25'

35'

50'


I've used 'em all and they are the absolute Bomb at the price of $1.00ft


Be sure to ask for Bill. Place your order through him because he's the man, and be certain to mention AVS for special treatment.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deez* /forum/post/20879192
> 
> 
> Also, what's the difference between High speed, Normal and off concerning the iris? What's the best setting?



Well lemmie see now;


High Speed means the Iris reacts to changes in the Content's Black levels very quickly to close down the iris opening so as to reduce the amount of light being outputted by the PJ....this to allow for the Black levels to appear darker


On "Normal" is does the same thing, only more slowly, and that also means it will do so while producing a less obtrusive level of "Iris motor" noise.


I refuse to divulge what "off" means.


----------



## deez

OK, I guess my real question is what's the best setting to have it on? Is there any issues with the different iris settings? I'm a noob when it Comes to LCD having had only dlp. Sorry if question seems dumb lol

To me, the cinema mode seems way to dark. I'm projecting a 106 " image on to a Elite screens gray 1.0 screen and proj. Is 11 ft back. Walls are whits some ambient light

Natural seems the best for me but I'm wondering if because of all the lumens in my room I should go to a matte white screen?

Thanks


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deez* /forum/post/20881472
> 
> 
> OK, I guess my real question is what's the best setting to have it on? Is there any issues with the different iris settings? I'm a noob when it Comes to LCD having had only dlp. Sorry if question seems dumb lol
> 
> To me, the cinema mode seems way to dark. I'm projecting a 106 " image on to a Elite screens gray 1.0 screen and proj. Is 11 ft back. Walls are whits some ambient light
> 
> Natural seems the best for me but I'm wondering if because of all the lumens in my room I should go to a matte white screen?
> 
> Thanks



Ya got it backwards. With all the reflective surfaces you have, you need to go with at minimum a light Gray screen. The Elite is a pretty good match for that criteria, although a somewhat darker Gray combined with "Living Room", with the Iris set to "off" would both increase the perception of the 8350 having deeper black levels without the use of the Iris...yet the use of increased Lumens will maintain every bit of the "pizazz & PoP" the 8350's colors and whites can offer.


Simply scroll back to look at the "White vs Gray" shots I recently posted to see why you do not want to go lighter as far as your screen surface goes.


----------



## 6strings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *razorxl* /forum/post/20878330
> 
> 
> 
> Question, I have it in eco mode for power consumption. When I try a color mode like dynamic or living room, the fan kicks in really high, and there's a noticeable motorized movement that happens. Is this normal? Am I burning the bulb at full power consumption because of this mode? I'll probably hardly ever use it, as it's way too bright for my needs, but just wondering if using those modes negate the Eco mode on the power consumption.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20878608
> 
> 
> razorxl,
> 
> 
> Yes, anytime you switch over to Dynamic or Living Room (...the 8350's brightest modes...) the lamp resets to "Normal"



I have tested the power usage with a "Kill A Watt" meter and there is only a 1 watt difference between dynamic and cinema 1 (due to increased fan speed?) so the lamp does not automatically switch to normal in dynamic mode.


Here are the power measurements.


Cinema 1 mode:eco=209 watts/ normal=259 watts

Dynamic mode :eco=210 watts/ normal=260 watts


So if you like it bright like I do, I think its safe to say you are not reducing your lamp life by using dynamic or living room mode.


----------



## TimeLord517




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20881215
> 
> 
> The Chief RPA 168 projector-specific Mount is hands down the best possible solution. You'll never see "I had to modify...' mentioned when referring to the RPA 168... Is it the most adaptable, the most cosmetic, the most sturdy, the most adjustable mount you could hope to find for ANY Epson 8000 series PJ? ....yes to every one.



I am VERY happy with the mount (it's what the Epson one is. I think...). It's excellent quality, installs easily (I've got it mounted to a joist with 2 out of the 4 possible mounting points), and is adaptable - just use a different length pipe if you need to hang it lower. Or, just mount it "flush" to the ceiling. I don't regret the price for the entire mount system at all!


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20881908
> 
> 
> Ya got it backwards. With all the reflective surfaces you have, you need to go with at minimum a light Gray screen. The Elite is a pretty good match for that criteria, although a somewhat darker Gray combined with "Living Room", with the Iris set to "off" would both increase the perception of the 8350 having deeper black levels without the use of the Iris...yet the use of increased Lumens will maintain every bit of the "pizazz & PoP" the 8350's colors and whites can offer.
> 
> 
> Simply scroll back to look at the "White vs Gray" shots I recently posted to see why you do not want to go lighter as far as your screen surface goes.



What is the best Colormode for Gray Screen or let say the DIY Silver Fire screen?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20885286
> 
> 
> What is the best Colormode for Gray Screen or let say the DIY Silver Fire screen?



Natural if viewing in a dark room setting, Living Room if watching in moderate ambient light.


----------



## sumisr

Hello all,


I recently purchased an Epson 8350. It replaced an old DWIN CRT projector that was installed by the previous owners in a dedicated home theater room in our house.


The room is completely light controlled (powered shade, dark paint and flooring) and has an 8 foot diagonal 4:3 screen constructed out of a plastic fabric in off-white/light gray with a lightly sheened surface. The screen appears to be a Clarion model made by Draper.


For the time being we have mounted the Epson on the same apparatus (drop-down extension frame) as the DWIN and even with the relatively short-throw were able to project a 16:9 image that fits the old 4:3 frame entirely.


We have done absolutely no calibration/tweaking to the projector and in a darkened room the picture is spectacular. It is bright and vibrant even in Cinema mode which, I understand, is the lowest-light output setting.


There is a large window on the back wall of the room which looks over a backyard shaded by tall old-growth trees. There is no opportunity for direct sunlight. However, with the shade open and diffused light entering the room the picture looks a bit washed out even at the highest lamp setting. Understand that the ambient light is still not adequate to read a newspaper by but is apparently bright enough to pose a challenge to my viewing experience. I suspect that it is reflecting off the screen which is mounted directly opposite the window.


I would also like to increase the size of the image--by my measurement a 120" or so 16:9 screen would be just about a good fit for the room. The size and 4:3 aspect of the current screen compromises widescreen material which is now the majority of our content.


I am hoping to get some advice on how best to move forward. Frankly, I am reluctant to spend $3K plus for one of the high-end screens that are being promoted on various sites. I also suspect the 'cheaper' retail screens whilst addressing the size issue will not offer any better performance in ambient light.


I have provided some additional details below and again thank you for any insight you can provide. I do have pictures that I would be able to share as well.


*Room size / layout*


Rectangular, wider in the rear than up front by the screen (the wall jogs inwards by a couple of feet at a point about 2/3rds of the distance from the back of the room--no idea why)


Length: 18 feet

Width (at screen end): 13.5 feet

Height (at screen): 8 feet 5"

Height (at projector mount): 10 feet 3"
*

Seating
*

Couches and beanbags--going for comfort and flexibility.

*Room colors*


Charcoal/mauve ceilings and walls

*Desired Screen size*


120" or so

*Lighting considerations*


Array of Lutron dimmable recessed can lighting.

Large window on back wall of room.

I look at this as a media/family room even though it was built as a dedicated theater. We have removed the old bolt-in theater seats and CRT projector in the hope that we could have a big bright image to play video games etc. with some amount of ambient light entering the room. I really dislike sitting in pitch dark rooms unless we're watching a good movie and want a true cinema experience. Would like to be able to hang out with friends and watch sports on the big screen which is not fun in a totally dark room.

*Available Throw Distances*


Mounted the Epson on the old CRT projector mount for now. Approx 10 foot throw distance. I can move the mount to wherever necessary.


----------



## MississippiMan

...........some serious effort to please.










So simple to do so...so very cost effective too.


Watch this space for an update in 10 minutes or so.



(BTW...was not this same content posted elsewhere? Seems I remember.........







)


----------



## sumisr

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
...........


(BTW...was not this same content posted elsewhere? Seems I remember.........







)
Yes, I PM'ed a while ago but it probably got lost in the ether.


Another question, I suspect that the slightly shiny material of my current screen was ideal for a low-brightness CRT but is causing problems with the 8350 in ambient light. I have heard of screens being coated with glass-bead surfaces--which seem like they would shimmer in less than blackout conditions.


Does that hold water?


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *sumisr* 
Hello all,


I recently purchased an Epson 8350. It replaced an old DWIN CRT projector that was installed by the previous owners in a dedicated home theater room in our house.


The room is completely light controlled (powered shade, dark paint and flooring) and has an 8 foot diagonal 4:3 screen constructed out of a plastic fabric in off-white/light gray with a lightly sheened surface. The screen appears to be a Clarion model made by Draper
From your description, that would be the HiDef Gray Clarion. In the 122" size that was a $1500.00 screen new. It's Gray shade is pretty light...because that screen was designed more to help lower lumen PJs with poor contrast look better.

No...that was not your need with a CRT....in your case it was more to conserve lumens...because your CRT's Blacks were nothing to sneeze at. That screen you now have was fine for a CRT in the dark (I betcha the previous owner never watched "IT" with the shade open....ever!) but not so much now if your insistent in doing any Daytime watching, or Nightime viewing with non-directed lighting..

Quote:

For the time being we have mounted the Epson on the same apparatus (drop-down extension frame) as the DWIN and even with the relatively short-throw were able to project a 16:9 image that fits the old 4:3 frame entirely.
Unless you referring only to the screen's width....not at a 10' throw.....because a 58" high 4:3 image area translates in a 77" wide screen to create a 8' (96") diagonal surface. At 10' the biggest (tallest) 16:9 image the Epson could produce would be 47". Ergo the lens is most likely positioned at/around 12' from the Screen.


That's OK though...because at 12' the Epson can indeed present a 58" x 104" (118" diagonal) image and still have 6" of focal length to spare. You would not want to crowd it any closer.

Quote:

We have done absolutely no calibration/tweaking to the projector and in a darkened room the picture is spectacular. It is bright and vibrant even in Cinema mode which, I understand, is the lowest-light output setting.
Well, you *are* used to watching a PJ with considerably less lumen, and the switch over to one of the brightest 1080p PJs around is bound to impress. That's even more "OK".









Quote:

There is a large window on the back wall of the room which looks over a backyard shaded by tall old-growth trees. There is no opportunity for direct sunlight. However, with the shade open and diffused light entering the room the picture looks a bit washed out even at the highest lamp setting. Understand that the ambient light is still not adequate to read a newspaper by but is apparently bright enough to pose a challenge to my viewing experience. I suspect that it is reflecting off the screen which is mounted directly opposite the window.
Two things. First, brightness does not always equate to a decent image, even in low ambient light. Secondly, any loss of what ever small part of valuable Gray Scale the 8350 has is always going to be noticeable when even indirect Sunlight or Incandescent/Halogen washes across such a light colored screen. That's because the Screen is doing too good a job of picking up and returning ambient light coming in at levels that...while they may be lessor in lumens than the projected light, are still strong enough to dilute the projected lights reflected lumens coming also from off the screen.

Quote:

I would also like to increase the size of the image--by my measurement a 120" or so 16:9 screen would be just about a good fit for the room. The size and 4:3 aspect of the current screen compromises widescreen material which is now the majority of our content.
Well we already know we can do that. Another "OK".

Quote:

I am hoping to get some advice on how best to move forward.
Awwww...and I thought we were on a roll.









Quote:

Frankly, I am reluctant to spend $3K plus for one of the high-end screens that are being promoted on various sites. I also suspect the 'cheaper' retail screens whilst addressing the size issue will not offer any better performance in ambient light.
There is a cure for what ails you waiting. It can be had in several ways. But any Mfg Screen that can provide more than acceptable performance in Ambient Light is gonna run in...at 120" +....at least $2k+ Some are almost $4k

















At the bottom I have posted a few shots that own to the beleif that such performance need not cost $1000s ....nor even several $100s


You can have the Screen you need, tailored to exactly what would be optimum for your Room and PJ, for no more than $225.00.


At that price point, it's all DIY. Don't run away! Check out what's below all this Typing and understand that literally tens of thousands of people with little or no skills have "Been there...Done that".........and they all got their ideas...and help from here.: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110 

Quote:

I have provided some additional details below and again thank you for any insight you can provide. I do have pictures that I would be able to share as well.


Suman

*Room size / layout*


Rectangular, wider in the rear than up front by the screen (the wall jogs inwards by a couple of feet at a point about 2/3rds of the distance from the back of the room--no idea why)


Length: 18 feet

Width (at screen end): 13.5 feet

Height (at screen): 8 feet 5"

Height (at projector mount): 10 feet 3"
*

Seating
*

Couches and beanbags--going for comfort and flexibility.

*Room colors*


Charcoal/mauve ceilings and walls

*Desired Screen size*


120" or so

*Lighting considerations*


Array of Lutron dimmable recessed can lighting.

Large window on back wall of room.

I look at this as a media/family room even though it was built as a dedicated theater. We have removed the old bolt-in theater seats and CRT projector in the hope that we could have a big bright image to play video games etc. with some amount of ambient light entering the room. I really dislike sitting in pitch dark rooms unless we're watching a good movie and want a true cinema experience. Would like to be able to hang out with friends and watch sports on the big screen which is not fun in a totally dark room.

*Available Throw Distances*


Mounted the Epson on the old CRT projector mount for now. Approx 10 foot throw distance. I can move the mount to wherever necessary.


All of the above presents no issues. Those Cans should contain Spots...not Floods, so if they are Floods....change 'em out. That can...and would be among the most singularly easy and least expensive fixes for the "Artificial Ambient Light" issue.


Now then....lookee here...









These images are coming from an Epson 9350. Same PJ. Same Contrast and Lumens. Pro Model (extra Features-Black Case) Color Mode: Natural (@ Normal Lamp output)

*The first two sets show considerable ambient light from 6 Spots and two Sconces.*




















This next image shows the difference between the 1.2 gain White material (Sintra) and the 1.2 gain Silver Fire v2.1 3.0


The bottom 4 insets show the difference both look like in ambient and near total darkness











And this last grouping is all about how much difference there is really between both types of surfaces seen in the same amount of light from both sources.












That is a DIY Screen made from White Sintra material cut to 106" x 60" and sprayed with the Silver Fire.


Total cost...including the Spray Gun and Black Velvet Trim? $185.00


It's performance matches or exceeds Mfg Screens costing over 10x as much.


Your call.


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *sumisr* 
Yes, I PM'ed a while ago but it probably got lost in the ether.


Another question, I suspect that the slightly shiny material of my current screen was ideal for a low-brightness CRT but is causing problems with the 8350 in ambient light. I have heard of screens being coated with glass-bead surfaces--which seem like they would shimmer in less than blackout conditions.


Does that hold water?
Yeah...and it's all over my shoe!










Sorry about the overlooked PM. Not like me to let that happen. I got a 1000 PM limit that's sitting at 956 in the Inbox so I do get'em backed up at times.


You sure don't want either a High Power, or any other Glass Beaded Screen because they don't do anything but direct projected light straight back at you. And they also collect and shoot ambient light just as well.


I was busy typing w/2 fingers while you posted just a few minutes ago. I'm slow.....but tenacious.


----------



## deez

Well, after about 4 days I had to take it back. I have had DLP for so long I prefer and IMO the PQ is just better with DLP. I just am so used to mo convergence errors and better color. Plus that iris action was awful. I will say that for some reason Xbox video games looked really bright and good on the Epson.


----------



## sumisr

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* 
I betcha the previous owner never watched "IT" with the shade open....ever!
You're probably right.


Quote:

Unless you referring only to the screen's width....not at a 10' throw.....
Actually I WAS only referring to the screen's width... there are big black bars at the top and bottom of the image but it fits the old screen width-wise.

Quote:

Two things. First, brightness does not always equate to a decent image, even in low ambient light. Secondly, any loss of what ever small part of valuable Gray Scale the 8350 has is always going to be noticeable when even indirect Sunlight or Incandescent/Halogen washes across such a light colored screen. That's because the Screen is doing too good a job of picking up and returning ambient light coming in at levels that...while they may be lessor in lumens than the projected light, are still strong enough to dilute the projected lights reflected lumens coming also from off the screen.
This makes sense.

Quote:

There is a cure for what ails you waiting. It can be had in several ways. But any Mfg Screen that can provide more than acceptable performance in Ambient Light is gonna run in...at 120" +....at least $2k+ Some are almost $4k















Is there a screen material that I could buy and then build a frame for?


Quote:

These images are coming from an Epson 9350. Same PJ. Same Contrast and Lumens. Pro Model (extra Features-Black Case) Color Mode: Natural (@ Normal Lamp output)
I'm afraid I'm not sure what I'm looking at in these pictures. Is the inset a 'regular' white material and the rest of the image a paint mix?


Either looks better than the ambient light picture from my projector.


Thanks for your response.


----------



## mcnizzel

this projector weighs 16 pounds


this mount from monoprice says its good for 22
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...mat=4#feedback 


am I crazy for getting this? should I get one that is rated for more like 50 or won't it matter if I just install it properly?


----------



## fitbrit

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* 
this projector weighs 16 pounds


this mount from monoprice says its good for 22
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...mat=4#feedback 


am I crazy for getting this? should I get one that is rated for more like 50 or won't it matter if I just install it properly?
It really does pay to listen to MississippiMan: He recommends the Chief Mount (RPA168 ). I bought the black version of the one you show from Monoprice (or one of the similar ones). It was sturdy enough to hold the projector, but not to keep it aligned in the case of even a tiny knock.


In the end, what I thought was a saving of $105 (difference between the cost of the Chief mount from thenerds.net and the Monoprice mount), was in fact a waste of $20 - the cost of the Monoprice mount plus shipping. Not to mention the extra materials and time required to modify the mount to hold the 8350.


----------



## vladd

I'll confirm what fitbrit said about the mount not being quite sturdy enough. However, it did save me $80 since I was able to use materials I had on hand to stabilize the mount. If you're looking to save money, that mount can work with a little elbow grease. If you are looking for hassle-free, spend the extra money.


----------



## JimmyLeggs

Got my answers


----------



## rajdori

I am sure a lot of people would say *why this guy wants such a cheap screen* for 8500UB. Reason being that *I keep relocating* in 6/12 months and may not always be able to re-use same screen.


Also, i am *posting on 8350 thread*, as 8500UB thread hardly has any acticvity, and there are only a few differences betn 8350 and 8500UB, so i thought 8350 owners can surely help me out..


I did a lot of research when purchasing 8500UB. I fortunately had white walls, so never bought a screen. But recently moved to an paratment with coffe-colored walls. and white ceiling. So time to purchase a screen. I started doing research for screens, but far too much work, when I only want to spend 

I have not done any detailed calculations. *Room is approx 15'x15'. PJ is at 13' approx. 2/3 viewers typically, at approx 10-12'.* I just measured 16:9 image size that i typically use for movies. It is 110" wide, so approx 120" diagonal.


Source materials will be - Sony/Panny BD player (70%) and Patriot Box media player (25%). And HDMI-connected laptop at times (5%).


So let me say what I know so far, my preferences and what help I need.

What I come to know...

- Though 8500UB has excellent blacks, *Gray screen is still better*, as my room can't be completely darkened in daytime.

- Screens come fixed/pull-down/pull-up - *I prefer pull down*, as PJ is in my living room.

- manual/electric - *preferably manual.* i don't mind so I save some here. And to keep it simple.

- tensioned/non-tensioned - would *prefer tensioned*, based on creasing/waves issues I am reading.

- white/gray (with specified gain factor) - *gray,* as my rooms are not completely darkened during daytime (weekend watching).

- Screen size - I would *prefer screen to be 120" diag*.


Brands - *I saw Mustang, Elite and EluneVision within my price range of $250.*


I know many experts who would offer to help, may call me ignorant or just plain simple, but i really want simple recommendations... so please consider that..


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sumisr* /forum/post/20890695
> 
> 
> Is there a screen material that I could buy and then build a frame for?



Nothing that would not be more expensive by a big margin than the Screen shown, and almost nothing in a High Contrast Gray w/+gain.

Lot'sa Matte White offerings (...you sure don't want those...) out there, but virtually no high gain Grays.


Size would determine potential choices, but performance needs even more so, and when performance is factored in, I'll say without reservation you'll not find anything remotely close to the results shown above in a Mfg Screen material you can mount yourself on a DIY Frame.


I show this application because with PJs like the 8350 / 9350 / 8700 / 9700, their brightness combined with very good Dynamic Contrast ability can utilize a high Gain Gray surface to excellent potential.




> Quote:
> I'm afraid I'm not sure what I'm looking at in these pictures. Is the inset a 'regular' white material and the rest of the image a paint mix?
> 
> 
> Either looks better than the ambient light picture from my projector.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response.



Look again at "under Flash" image at the top left in the 3rd grouping. (...and read the description just above ie: 1.2 gain White material (Sintra)


----------



## frankie2075

Elite ezFrame Fixed Frame Screen CineWhite 106" anyone used this screen? is it a good screen with the 8350?


----------



## Kilgore

Screen questions and discussions belong in the screen forum. This thread should be about the Epson 8350 itself.


----------



## frankie2075

it is i wanna see if anyone used it with the 8350 projector.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/20893890
> 
> 
> Screen questions and discussions belong in the screen forum. This thread should be about the Epson 8350 itself.



Personally speaking....and also as the "Thread Starter", the tie in between PJ and Screen is so very important I feel any Q&As concerning screen applicability with the 8350 are subjects that are very much appropriate. You could take a PJ like the 8350 and provide it with a poorly matched Screen choice and wind up very dissatisfied. Worse still, a poor choice made without consultation often tends to have the disgruntled party blame the PJ.


We can't have that !!! Not when a judicious choice can make the exact opposite come true. Exceptional Black levels are not the 8350's strong suit. With the right screen choice, the exact opposite can be true.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20893907
> 
> 
> it is i wanna see if anyone used it with the 8350 projector.




If your Room is ideally suited for being a totally dark theater, with non-reflective walls and Ceiling/Floors, you use the 8350 in Cinema Mode, Iris engaged, and can be acceptant of the fact that the Blacks will only be as good as the Screen can show them....then it can be considered to be better than a sharp stick poked in the eye. If not...if you room reflects any degree of light back toward the Screen where the screen can pick up on it and have such wash out Blacks and dull colors, a white surface is NOT a good choice at all.


And consider this...the difference between White & Gray is so pronounced that even in a room such as featured in the previous photo groups...one that has dark Walls and even darker ceilings...AND properly designed lighting, one can still see the deficiencies in using a White over a Gray if the Gray is a proper choice that also has a positive gain of over 1.0


Don't make me post more Screenies like all the ones above showing how very true that statement is. I will, ya know. Count on it!


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20894114
> 
> 
> Personally speaking....and also as the "Thread Starter", the tie in between PJ and Screen is so very important I feel any Q&As concerning screen applicability with the 8350 are subjects that are very much appropriate.



The tie in between PJ and Screen is important. *That's why there is an entire forum for discussing screens.*


This forum is for discussing the projector itself. If I want to read about screens, I will go to the Screens forum.


Being the "Thread Starter" has no bearing whatsoever, other than the fact that you took it upon yourself to start this thread in order to steer the topic into discussing Screens, a topic you obviously have a vested interest in.


It is only right that you direct discussion on Screens, DIY. painted, retail or otherwise to the Screens forum. That is why that forum is there.


----------



## MississippiMan

Sorry, but you are wrong all around.


Far too many people post on this thread allowing that the 8350's black levels are not very good. To steer them back into the fold, I show them that with a proper screen choice they can in fact achieve excellent imagery...in a wider choice of viewing conditions.


In truth, it is you who need to contribute something worthwhile, or go read something else somewhere else. I have no agenda except trying my best to show anyone who has ANY projector how I KNOW they can get the best results for less.


If I sold Screens...you might have a leg to stand on. But since I really have just shown how the difference in screen selection can make an appreciable difference in the performance envelope of a PJ, it matters not one whit to me whatever type of solution a PJ owner takes. Only that they have the info to make an informed decision. They might buy....they might DIY...it makes no difference t me, only that they not dismiss the 8350 over a issue that is easily resolvable.


BTW...in over 500,000 views and thousands of posts, your the only one who has ever taken umbrage over the issue...so what does that say?


So...? Do you have anything constructive to add to the thread....info people could use and should know?


If not...............


----------



## frankie2075




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20894114
> 
> 
> Personally speaking....and also as the "Thread Starter", the tie in between PJ and Screen is so very important I feel any Q&As concerning screen applicability with the 8350 are subjects that are very much appropriate. You could take a PJ like the 8350 and provide it with a poorly matched Screen choice and wind up very dissatisfied. Worse still, a poor choice made without consultation often tends to have the disgruntled party blame the PJ.
> 
> 
> We can't have that !!! Not when a judicious choice can make the exact opposite come true. Exceptional Black levels are not the 8350's strong suit. With the right screen choice, the exact opposite can be true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your Room is ideally suited for being a totally dark theater, with non-reflective walls and Ceiling/Floors, you use the 8350 in Cinema Mode, Iris engaged, and can be acceptant of the fact that the Blacks will only be as good as the Screen can show them....then it can be considered to be better than a sharp stick poked in the eye. If not...if you room reflects any degree of light back toward the Screen where the screen can pick up on it and have such wash out Blacks and dull colors, a white surface is NOT a good choice at all.
> 
> 
> And consider this...the difference between White & Gray is so pronounced that even in a room such as featured in the previous photo groups...one that has dark Walls and even darker ceilings...AND properly designed lighting, one can still see the deficiencies in using a White over a Gray if the Gray is a proper choice that also has a positive gain of over 1.0
> 
> 
> Don't make me post more Screenies like all the ones above showing how very true that statement is. I will, ya know. Count on it!



hey man i spoke to epson today and they told me that they dont recommend a gray screen with there projectors. im new to this screen and projector stuff. the lady at projectorpeople.com recommened that elite screen. my room is a very dark gray and no ambient lighting. what do u think about that screen?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20894690
> 
> 
> Sorry, but you are wrong all around.
> 
> 
> Far too many people post on this thread allowing that the 8350's black levels are not very good. To steer them back into the fold, I show them that with a proper screen choice they can in fact achieve excellent imagery...in a wider choice of viewing conditions.



Why not direct these people to the Screens forum? That's what it's for. I come to this thread to read about people's experience with the 8350. After all, this is the Projector section, not the Screen section.


A great number of very knowledgeable people (including you) have a myriad of posts there regarding retail and DIY screens. A tremendous amount of helpful information is posted there. That's where people will easily find everything they want to know about screens.


Now, if that's not a constructive and helpful comment, I don't know what is.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20894806
> 
> 
> hey man i spoke to epson today and they told me that they dont recommend a gray screen with there projectors. im new to this screen and projector stuff. the lady at projectorpeople.com recommened that elite screen. my room is a very dark gray and no ambient lighting. what do u think about that screen?



Ask in the Screens forum. You'll get everything you need to know there.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=23 


There is a DIY section at the top there as well.


----------



## flutie98

Question for you guys, I just got my 8350 about a week ago, and so far its been amazing. I have noticed that after i turn the unit off (at the end of a 2 hour movie) the fan runs for only a couple of seconds before it turns off. My previous experience with projectors is in the office where the fan can run for a good while after it power down. Is this normal for the Epson?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frankie2075* /forum/post/20894806
> 
> 
> hey man i spoke to epson today and they told me that they dont recommend a gray screen with there projectors. im new to this screen and projector stuff. the lady at projectorpeople.com recommened that elite screen. my room is a very dark gray and no ambient lighting. what do u think about that screen?



As for Epson saying that...it makes no sense at all. They above all else should be aware that the brighter images their PJ produce work against obtaining the levels of Contrast, Dynamic or native, that they state is spec.


Then there is reflected light coming back from walls and ceilings/floors, all work to reduce the actual contrast levels on-screen.


Even a 8700 w/200,000:1 CR as opposed to the 8350's 50,000:1 CR suffers from such intervention. Not as much, mind you....but enough to effectively turn a Dark Black projected image a noticeably lighter shade.


On the other hand, with a properly matched High Contrast surface, the extra lumens the Epson produces can easily offset any attenuation such a surface is responsible for. When the Pj is calibrated for the particular shade of Gray surface, then all the projected contrast...or the majority of it...can be used/seen.


As for Projector People...they are Sales People. Period. And my experience with them over the years has shown me that too many are simply focused on selling a "Package Deal" because that is where they get the largest spiffs.

No reputable Reviewer would ever make the blanket statement that one should not ever consider matching a screen to a PJ or the environment it resides in. Nor should any Salesperson hone in on a Screen choice based on the assumption that the prospective Buyer should get it because it's simply a good deal.


Projector People now sell the Black Diamond Screens. $3000.00+ screens designed to maximize every aspect of the viewing experience. Yet who needs a screen that takes care of almost any issue? Certainly not someone like you with a well thought out room with little to no reflective issues and a PJ with plenty of brightness and image clarity.


But it is a fact that the 8350's blacks DO NOT measure up well on purely white screens. It's been stated right here on this thread probably close to a 100 times.(...and some people have returned the 8350 for exactly that reason...) They just are not "that Black" except under total darkness and when watching scenes with the very deepest Blacks...and with the Iris fully engaged. Then they look pretty good. Add any real amount of white or color and brighten up the image so that the iris opens up and presto.....the blacks that are there go south into the lighter shades of the Gray scale.


So as I said earlier....as a staunch advocate of this PJ...it's value and performance ratio...and how it can bring really excellent viewing to anyone looking for such on a budget, I try to educate people on how to get the most out of the darn thing.


With a high contrast surface...the Iris can be turned off, the brightness used to full advantage, and an image liken unto a Plasma or Edge Lit LED/LCD TV obtained. Even on Low lamp and the darker Image modes, such a surface can optimize the Black levels without crushing down detail or Color snap.


For the record...I started this thread because I got my hands on an 8350 a few months before general release. I KNEW what it was capable of...and I wanted everyone else to know as well. I've installed over 20 such units, and more than a few 8700s and 9350s as well. I love Epsons, and their drive toward Customer satisfaction.


But just the same I cannot overlook issues that make those PJs less than they can...or should be for people.


How people respond to such overtures is up to them. But no one should doubt my motives nor be dissuaded from considering (...not necessarily taking...) the advice that comes from myself and others...those who have actual experience with these critters several times over and who are desirous of imparting that knowledge so that others can avoid the common misconceptions and mistakes that can lead to being less than satisfied with their choices.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flutie98* /forum/post/20895290
> 
> 
> Question for you guys, I just got my 8350 about a week ago, and so far its been amazing. I have noticed that after i turn the unit off (at the end of a 2 hour movie) the fan runs for only a couple of seconds before it turns off. My previous experience with projectors is in the office where the fan can run for a good while after it power down. Is this normal for the Epson?



Absolutely normal. The current design allows for much more rapid cooling...


----------



## PRLJAMR

Miss Man: I have a white laminate screen and want to get the 8350. Can I paint the laminate grey? If so what is the best product.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/20895429
> 
> 
> Miss Man: I have a white laminate screen and want to get the 8350. Can I paint the laminate grey? If so what is the best product.



Yes. It will make for a marked improvement.


Come over to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110 


...and post up about the details of your situation.


----------



## frankie2075

thanks man


----------



## raul7

Hi Guys,

I am having some problems with this projector i was hoping you guys could help.


I purchased this Feb 2011, the lamp has 610 Hours on it. back in May one night while watching TV all of a sudden the screen went dark and when i looked at the projector had BLINKING RED Light where the temperature LED is, and the fan inside the projector was spinning really fast, after about 5 min of no picture and fan going nuts, it turned off, i unplugged it from the wall, waited about 30 min and that was that.


it never repeated until last night ! (so about 3 months later) last night was more serious though, was watching same thing happened, unplugged for 20 min, in the mean time Cleaned the air filter as well, started, after 10 min, same thing but this time SOLID Red light, waited for 20 min for it shut down, waited 10 min on top of it , started, 15 min later same thing SOLID red and above process but this time *I changed the power consumption to ECO and changed the colour Mode from LIVING ROOM to NATURAL* and it worked fine !!! used it for a good 4 hours and no problem.


the room temperature is about 22 C (72 Fahrenheit). what do you guys think is wrong? should i call Epson for warranty?


Thank you for all the help.


----------



## mcnizzel

If I were you, I would definitely get it warrantied.

you should be free to enjoy your projector using any settings you wish, not whatever ones don't upset the PJ gods and cause your 8350 to go temperature crazy.


The only thing I can think of that would cause this issue with a perfectly functioning PJ, is lack of air flow. You did your due diligence by cleaning the filter, and as long as you don't have this thing in a ziploc bag or some ridiculously tiny mounted cabinet, its a problem with the PJ.


Besides, if you call up Epson and ask for a warranty replacement I think they'll give it to you, and I don't see the down side. They'll ship you a replacement first so you can use your current one now. Then you just mount the new one when it arrives, throw the old one back in the same box and ship it back. Its my favorite part of the Epson warranty on these, you don't have to be out a PJ for over a month while you ship yours in and wait for diagnostics or whatever.


This is of course all my opinion, but I like to take every precaution to make sure things function perfectly under the warranty period. I'm sure we're all hoping these last longer than 2 years, but after that you've got no coverage, so it seems prudent to me to take every opportunity to make sure you have a perfectly working unit before you're out in the cold past the 2 year mark.

best of luck either way


----------



## raul7

mcnizzel: Thank you for a quick reply, I have never dealt with Epson warranty before, since this doesnt happen ALL THE TIME, will they accept it? thats another issue. who knows maybe it works now for another 3-4 months.


Thank you,


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raul7* /forum/post/20897672
> 
> 
> mcnizzel: Thank you for a quick reply, I have never dealt with Epson warranty before, since this doesnt happen ALL THE TIME, will they accept it? thats another issue. who knows maybe it works now for another 3-4 months.
> 
> 
> Thank you,



Yes they will, Epson has the best customer service hands down, The thing i did on mine is they let me ship my PJ fisrt cause i dont have enough credit of $1000 on my credit card. Ofcourse they paid the shipping cost, after they recieved the unit which is within 3 days they sent me a brand new replacement using fedex overnight. In your case they will send you a refurbish unit because its been over a month.


P.S The reason i sent my PJ cuz of the micro lines (like scratches) inside the lenses,but besides that my PJ works perfectly fine, im just too perfectionist i think.


----------



## Wadoodle

Did anybody else catch amazons price error listing the 8350 sold by electronics expo at $115 earlier today?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wadoodle* /forum/post/20899684
> 
> 
> Did anybody else catch amazons price error listing the 8350 sold by electronics expo at $115 earlier today?



I bought 10 of 'em. Wadda deal!


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wadoodle* /forum/post/20899684
> 
> 
> Did anybody else catch amazons price error listing the 8350 sold by electronics expo at $115 earlier today?



lol i saw that yesterday, thinking i was the only one that saw it,so i ordered 1 just to try if it works then i recieved an email this morning that the order has been cancelled.







wat a bummer.


----------



## rajdori

for those interested...


Epson 8350 at 999+tax at Frys this week..

OOS for shipping.

available in stores.


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank* /forum/post/20764988
> 
> 
> haha yeah that's one of othe reasons I asked here first because it does sound too good to be true.
> 
> 
> I was contemplating a new bulb purchase anyhow, but if they are offering free replacements under even my circumstances... then I'm crazy not to.
> 
> 
> This is the first bulb I've had to replace however and it's my 4th projector(not 4th 8350, I've had no real problems with mine), I usually upgrade projectors around 1000hrs, I can't imagine upgrading this projector yet, it's been great. I'm also happy with the pricing of the lamps I've found from some reputable sites. $230-250 would put me at about 10cents/hour (2700hrs) to run something I really enjoy.
> 
> 
> UPDATE: So I called up epson and as MM suggested they didn't skip a beat. New bulb on the way, if I have any issues with the next bulb within the 2 year warranty period of my projector then it will be dealt with as well. All I needed was the little PrivateLine support credit card number that came in the instruction manual and the serial number of the unit. I believe they would sort it out just based on the S/N however. The only dowside of all this is that it will be nearly impossible for me to justify buying a projector from another company. I'm very happy with this company right now.
> 
> 
> Also they didn't seem to care at all that I'm a canadian who purchased from the states so I originally had a US shipping address. They are sending the replacement to my canadian address. Which is another "rare" occurence in the electronics industry.



Thanks for this post... mine just "popped" at 2200hours. Man.. why is it always at the worst moment? LSU/OREGON tonight and party planned....now party cancelled and we pull out the kids 37" LCD..wow is that smaaaaaaaall!


Have to probably wait til Tuesday to call them up and get a free lamp.


SO I have my privateline card ready and my serial number ready. Anything to tell them besides...." I heard a "pop" and there is no picture and the lamp light is flashing red" ??


And....what did people do with their other PJ's that had lamp issues? Sell them with the new replacement bulb and upgrade to another Epson? My 1st year ends next month and I don't mind keeping this one, but if the lamp is going to continue to go out...well.. then...I don't want to keep popping out $250+ every year once warranty is up.


----------



## home4sale2

Took me 1 millisec to hit that order button, lol. What's fair is fair though, honest mistake so I didn't fight it. After the refund, status showed shipped anyway so I called and thanked Amazon for intending to send it to me for free this time around so we both had a chuckle over that one. At this point I was more worried that it was a scam by the reseller, electronics expo. I am told it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## veekay

My bulb is already doing this exact thing at just over 500 hours. Before at least the trick of switching it into normal mode and back would work, but not now. This thing will be my last Epson - I've had enough of their QC as this is about the 7th one I've had in the past couple of years.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Fishtank* 
Bulb down...


Exploded about 2700 hrs in. That's not that bad... however there was the stated 5000 hr rating I believe. I used it a lot, i've been stuck in my basement more than normal for some reasons beyond my control... only had it about 10 months now I think.


I will look into these 2 questions myself but I always like to hear the opinion of people who have had to do this incase what I found on the internet isn't that reliable...


Anyhow there has been some articles from reputable sites that say epson will replace the original bulb if it fails within your projectors warranty period, does anyone have any experience with that?


Also are counterfeit bulbs really a big issue? At first glance I've seen some bulbs from some sites in the $200 range while epson is at $300. I've never bought a replacement bulb before.


Any opinions/advice would be much appreciated.



Also if anyone is curious about the symptoms I saw before it exploded.... about 3-400 hrs ago the whole screen would flicker bright->dim->bright->dim etc. in eco mode. Looked fine in Normal mode however brightness really started to drop quickly as I continued using it. I was starting to contemplate getting a new bulb just for the over-all brightness anyhow. Few days ago I started to see the brightness flicker in normal mode just a bit, then today after about an 8 hr session it exploded mid-use.


----------



## Retiredgeek

I just received my 8350 to replace my Sanyo PlVz5 that had a cooked blue polarizer. The Sanyo still had a great sharp picture but was on the yellowish side and could only get enough brightness in Vivid or Dynamic mode. When I received my 8350 I expected the sharpness to be at least as good as my Sanyo was when it was new. I have played with the settings on my new 8350 for a few days but can not get a sharp image that even approaches the now burnt Sanyo. It is like watching a 80's movie that is not quite in focus. My old projector was feed through a 50 ft HMDI cable to a shelf in the back of a 16 ft room. When I anticipated getting a new projector I moved all my AV equipment to the rear of the room and replaced all of my cables with new High speed HMDI. My old Projector worked fine with the new cables except for the yellowish dim picture.


My new projector does not handle motion as well as my old projector and it is like it has an astigmatism, the focus doesn't appear to be uniform. If watching

something like a ballgame the picture appears to be better until you receive a closeup and the people seem to be out of focus. Based on all the reviews I expected the 8350 to be better than a 720p projector and this one is definitely not better.


I am projecting on a DIY paint screen that served me well with the Sanyo. It

is on the gray side but that should not effect sharpness. This is a screen I made using feedback from MM and W Bassett several years back. I am constructing a new screen thinking I now have the lumens to go bigger but now I'm a little let down because making blur bigger doesn't help. Does anyone have any advice as to whether this is a warranty issue or is this something that can be fixed by tuning. I have tried all the sharpness adjustments with only marginal improvement.


----------



## spaceharrier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajdori* /forum/post/20901659
> 
> 
> for those interested...
> 
> 
> Epson 8350 at 999+tax at Frys this week..
> 
> OOS for shipping.
> 
> available in stores.



Indeed; picked one up today. Had to explain to the guys at the Concord, CA store that they did stock home video projectors, and that the website said they had the 8350 in stock. First viewing this evening with the PJ sat on top of a box while I decide on a mount.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Retiredgeek* /forum/post/20906943
> 
> 
> I just received my 8350 to replace my Sanyo PlVz5 that had a cooked blue polarizer. The Sanyo still had a great sharp picture but was on the yellowish side and could only get enough brightness in Vivid or Dynamic mode. When I received my 8350 I expected the sharpness to be at least as good as my Sanyo was when it was new. I have played with the settings on my new 8350 for a few days but can not get a sharp image that even approaches the now burnt Sanyo.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any advice as to whether this is a warranty issue or is this something that can be fixed by tuning. I have tried all the sharpness adjustments with only marginal improvement.



Hard to say, but since you just got it, a call to Epson is justified because they will probably replace it with a *NEW* unit since it's just been opened and looks deplorably bad.


I'd say the effort has to be worth it. Otherwise, dump it back onto the lap of whomever you got it from while you can and order another from Frys for $999.00. Overall, the 8350 has been a remarkably dependable choice considering the many thousands that have been sold.


----------



## pinball_guy17

Where are people getting replacement lamps from?


I think my projector has 1300 hrs on it. Can't tell atm :lol: Lamp light is flashing. I should've taken the hint when I turned up the brightness yesterday.


I think newegg is cheaper if you consider next day shipping. 2 day...is from a site I never heard of advance lamps.


amatteroffax dot com has the lowest list price that I've seen...never heard of them and their site is reallllllly slow. And shipping options are expensive (2-day/1 day). (found them via price grabber. I know nothing about them.)


Anyway...I'm thinking newegg has the best price once you include I want it now.


As for a on-hand back up. I think I'd rather pay the $26 for overnight shipping rather than give up the 90 day warranty.


Comments?


----------



## mcnizzel

my epson 8350 still says 0H in the info scetion, I've watched a half dozen movies and some tv on it...


thats definitely goofy right?


I'm feeling like who knows what else might not be working right if it can't even keep track of bulb hours...


any ideas/suggestions? I'm looking at exchanging it at BBuy since I'm within 14 days.


----------



## Retiredgeek

mcnizzel


> Quote:
> my epson 8350 still says 0H in the info scetion, I've watched a half dozen movies and some tv on it...
> 
> 
> thats definitely goofy right?
> 
> 
> I'm feeling like who knows what else might not be working right if it can't even keep track of bulb hours...
> 
> 
> any ideas/suggestions? I'm looking at exchanging it at BBuy since I'm within 14 days.




If your projector has less that 10 hours on it, then the display will say 0 hours until it rolls over to 10 hours.


----------



## mcnizzel

That's kind of weird, thanks for the heads up though!


----------



## Manos777

I was hearing pops and crackles the other day on my Epson, some of which coincided with some flashing lines across the screen. I turned it down to ECO mode to see if this would resolve it. It didn't help much. By the next day, the issue was resolved. Are these signs that the bulb is going bad? I only have about 220 hours on it.


----------



## Manos777

For those who are looking for a decent portable screen, I am very satisfied and pleased with the Elite F80NWH ezCinema 80 inch pull up projector screen. The gain is 1.1. It is very easily set up and put away. When scrolled down, the tube casing it is in can be carried into a corner or tucked away against the wall to return your living room to a non-media dominated room look. When set up, you can vary the height to your taste, and the screen placement can be moved closer to the viewers very easily to enhance the visual impact.


Just google the name of it and you'll see stores that carry it for under 200 bucks. Can't go wrong. Even if you eventually get a fancier permanent screen, this one can be used as an outdoor theater screen or for camping trips.


----------



## pinball_guy17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/20913980
> 
> 
> For those who are looking for a decent portable screen, I am very satisfied and pleased with the Elite F80NWH ezCinema 80 inch pull up projector screen. The gain is 1.1. It is very easily set up and put away. When scrolled down, the tube casing it is in can be carried into a corner or tucked away against the wall to return your living room to a non-media dominated room look. When set up, you can vary the height to your taste, and the screen placement can be moved closer to the viewers very easily to enhance the visual impact.
> 
> 
> Just google the name of it and you'll see stores that carry it for under 200 bucks. Can't go wrong. Even if you eventually get a fancier permanent screen, this one can be used as an outdoor theater screen or for camping trips.



Camping .


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinball_guy17* /forum/post/20913328
> 
> 
> Where are people getting replacement lamps from?
> 
> 
> I think my projector has 1300 hrs on it. Can't tell atm :lol: Lamp light is flashing. I should've taken the hint when I turned up the brightness yesterday.
> 
> 
> I think newegg is cheaper if you consider next day shipping. 2 day...is from a site I never heard of advance lamps.
> 
> 
> amatteroffax dot com has the lowest list price that I've seen...never heard of them and their site is reallllllly slow. And shipping options are expensive (2-day/1 day). (found them via price grabber. I know nothing about them.)
> 
> 
> Anyway...I'm thinking newegg has the best price once you include I want it now.
> 
> 
> As for a on-hand back up. I think I'd rather pay the $26 for overnight shipping rather than give up the 90 day warranty.
> 
> 
> Comments?



You're talking about for an 8350 right?


Call Epson. They are replacing them at no charge and they overnight it to you. I just called today for mine.


They said that indeed, they had a bad manufacturer of the lamps but they have since "solved the issue" and have a new vendor supplying the new lamps..yadda yadda yadda.


As for when the warranty runs out.... if these still have issues, it's no name brand time. If the lamp is truly solved, then I'll go with a OEM straight from Epson to be sure I get what my replacement is now.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Retiredgeek* /forum/post/20906943
> 
> 
> My new projector does not handle motion as well as my old projector and it is like it has an astigmatism, the focus doesn't appear to be uniform. If watching
> 
> something like a ballgame the picture appears to be better until you receive a closeup and the people seem to be out of focus. Based on all the reviews I expected the 8350 to be better than a 720p projector and this one is definitely not better.



You may want to check the following items:

1. Throw up a test pattern or some kind of BD movie and check for misconvergance.


2. Make sure your PJ is perpendicular to the screen.


3. Use a test pattern or good image on pause and use two folks to focus or use binoculars. A huge offset or keystone will affect focus across the entire image.


4. Move back from the screen if you are sitting to close.


I am a DLP fanboy. I had a GT720 720P DLP for a short while. Of course it looked good because it was DLP but I could see it was 720P when I had it at the size I wanted at the viewing distance I sit at. Hence it went back and after much nail bitng I got an LCD unit, the 8350. Mine is not perfect, none of them are. You can check the above things and determine if you have a faulty unit. That said, my 8350 has slight misconvergance that can only be seen from about 2' or less from the screen, (120"). So it is not perfect but from my viewing distance of about 12' give or take which seat I use, it looks great.


Again, it bothered me that my three panel PJ was not perfect because single chip DLPs have no convergance problems whatsoever. Once I got over that I realized that the LCD unit had better black levels and very good pop. There is no risk of RBE or colorwheel failure, and, last but not least, the placement of the 8350 due to offset is second to none and that is what sold me, let alone stellar support and warranty. And that is the same warranty you have so take/send it back until you get a good one. That lasts for 2 years my friend. That is hard to beat at this price.


----------



## pinkfloydhomer

Now that fall is coming, I am going to upgrade my old but trusty Sanyo PLV-Z3.


I need lens shift and I have been sensitive to RBE, at least with slower color wheels, so I guess I am going after LCD again.


Also, I am the kind of guy who likes to buy in the value-for-money segment instead of high-end (think Sanyo PLV-Z3).


This makes the Epson 8350 an obvious candidate (or more accurately the closely related european model TW3200). But what kind of issues does it have?

And will Epson present a replacement at CEDIA? I read about the new TW5900, but it seems to be more expensive and have no lens shift(?!). And I don't care about 3D.

What are the closest competitors in the same price range?


----------



## pinball_guy17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo* /forum/post/20914139
> 
> 
> You're talking about for an 8350 right?
> 
> 
> Call Epson. They are replacing them at no charge and they overnight it to you. I just called today for mine.
> 
> 
> They said that indeed, they had a bad manufacturer of the lamps but they have since "solved the issue" and have a new vendor supplying the new lamps..yadda yadda yadda.
> 
> 
> As for when the warranty runs out.... if these still have issues, it's no name brand time. If the lamp is truly solved, then I'll go with a OEM straight from Epson to be sure I get what my replacement is now.



Well I'll be. Epson is sending me a new lamp. My projector is 10 months old with 1391 hrs.


----------



## mcnizzel

have any of you done the bulb exchange with epson as just previously mentioned? do you have to send in the broken one? any charge at all? hold on your credit card in anticipation of the return or any other details anyone could provide?


----------



## pinball_guy17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/20919050
> 
> 
> have any of you done the bulb exchange with epson as just previously mentioned? do you have to send in the broken one? any charge at all? hold on your credit card in anticipation of the return or any other details anyone could provide?



They will want the old one back.

I didn't give any CC info. Just name, address, and serial number.


----------



## SkunkWorkz

It seems as though Epsons quality has been going down hill since they discoed the 1080/1080UB projectors...


They were bullet proof.


----------



## pinball_guy17

I am happy with my Epson...even before I realized I would get a brand new lamp for free.


If I had to pick between two closely matched projectors, I would pick the Epson.


----------



## pinkfloydhomer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *pinkfloydhomer* 
Now that fall is coming, I am going to upgrade my old but trusty Sanyo PLV-Z3.


I need lens shift and I have been sensitive to RBE, at least with slower color wheels, so I guess I am going after LCD again.


Also, I am the kind of guy who likes to buy in the value-for-money segment instead of high-end (think Sanyo PLV-Z3).


This makes the Epson 8350 an obvious candidate (or more accurately the closely related european model TW3200). But what kind of issues does it have?

And will Epson present a replacement at CEDIA? I read about the new TW5900, but it seems to be more expensive and have no lens shift(?!). And I don't care about 3D.

What are the closest competitors in the same price range?
Anyone? 8350 still the best bet at this moment?


----------



## jpolachak

You cant go wrong with the 8350 if your going after performance per dollar. I have 1700 hours on mine since I bought mine last November. I still think this is the best money I ever spent. I personally would wait till after Cedia to see what/how much the new Epson PJ's are going to be.


----------



## ClemsonKev

Anyone hear if EPSON lowered the MSRP of the 8350 when they announced the new PJ's at CEDIA today?


----------



## mcnizzel

its a little early to lower the price on the 8350 since the 3010 isn't even available yet. I don't see them lowering the price until the 3010 is a legit alternative for us to purchase.


----------



## jgarth22

Ok WTH........ Directv looks like crap with the projector. I'm sitting here watching the Packer game and it looks horrendous. All my blu-rays look great. What's the deal!


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jgarth22* /forum/post/20924308
> 
> 
> Ok WTH........ Directv looks like crap with the projector. I'm sitting here watching the Packer game and it looks horrendous. All my blu-rays look great. What's the deal!



What is your issue? I am watching it on cable. Looks pretty good but remember this unit has no frame interpolation. Aside from that mine is very sharp.


My edit: I forgot, if blu-ray looks good then one must remember garbage in usually means garbage out.


----------



## jgarth22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20924562
> 
> 
> What is your issue? I am watching it on cable. Looks pretty good but remember this unit has no frame interpolation. Aside from that mine is very sharp.
> 
> 
> My edit: I forgot, if blu-ray looks good then one must remember garbage in usually means garbage out.



The game looked SD to me. I have no idea why it would look this way? Some HD channels look ok, but others are quite horrific. Has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jgarth22* /forum/post/20926050
> 
> 
> The game looked SD to me. I have no idea why it would look this way? Some HD channels look ok, but others are quite horrific. Has anyone else had this issue?



you have to remember most games are 720P, theres only a few 1080p Games like Final Fantasy 13 and it looks great on it.


----------



## jgarth22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coopx* /forum/post/20926598
> 
> 
> you have to remember most games are 720P, theres only a few 1080p Games like Final Fantasy 13 and it looks great on it.



I'm talking about the Packers game last night on NBC. On a side note, what's with the black bar on the top of the screen during games on NBC?


----------



## jsil

Do you guys think that this projector is an upgrade from a Mitsubishi HC6500. My screen is a black widow 110" throw 16'. What about the reliability Of Epson D7 LCD Chips.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jgarth22* /forum/post/20926967
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the Packers game last night on NBC. On a side note, what's with the black bar on the top of the screen during games on NBC?



I do not remember a black bar on the top of the screen. You may want to check your output signal to the PJ.


----------



## kawie01

Does any one have any helpful suggestions on settings of 8350 paired with a ps3 & onkyo 807. I was playing resistance 3 and pic seems to get blurry at times. I changed some settings on the onkyo & it seemed to help. I will try more adjustments tomorrow. Other than the blurrs, great pic.



Thank you for any suggestions.


----------



## jgarth22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do not remember a black bar on the top of the screen. You may want to check your output signal to the PJ.



I think everything is set fine, like for instance when I pull up the guide on directv it fills the entire screen. It's the weirdest thing. Today I noticed on espn that there is a bar on the right and the top of the picture, but on the bottom where the score and everything is it goes all the way across the screen. It's so weird.


----------



## Firebat

jgarth? Is this ur first projector... Not a knock, but I am getting ready to purchase the 8350 and getting DirecTV at the same time. I am upgrading from the Epson Home 10, so I should get a SIGNIFICANT increase.


and what is frame interpolation? Did my Home 10 not have that either?


----------



## jeremytodd1

Is it possible to use a $20 Vizio universal remote with the 8350? I just want to be able to power on/off the projector with the remote.


Is it possible?


----------



## ClemsonKev

Just got my new 8350 in (after seeing from CEDIA that the new entry level 3D PJ's don't have lens shift built in!). Anyway, love the 8350 picture, but I still have to sit it on the coffee table and not the END table as I planned! The lens shifting won't let me utilize both the vertical and horizontal as much as I need... ugh!







Any suggestions?


----------



## ClemsonKev

p.s. no laughing at my man-cave/kids play room combo..... 'tis a work in progress!


----------



## jrwhite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ClemsonKev* 
Just got my new 8350 in (after seeing from CEDIA that the new entry level 3D PJ's don't have lens shift built in!). Anyway, love the 8350 picture, but I still have to sit it on the coffee table and not the END table as I planned! The lens shifting won't let me utilize both the vertical and horizontal as much as I need... ugh!







Any suggestions?
The position on that table on the right side of the couch works against you, as the lens of the 8350 is on the right side of the projector body.


Assuming your screen is centered in your room, why not move your end table to the other side of the couch?


We have a similar setup, where the end table in in-between the couch and a recliner. The lens is about .25x the screen width offset horizontally, and the screen is about 35" off the floor. There is just enough H and V range to accommodate this.


Another option would be to use a 2 tier coffee table, and mount the projector under the table. You seem to have enough throw to do this, as you're using the pj on the coffee table top now.


You could also place the pj on a sofa table behind the couch, and position the lens so that it shoots between seating positions. We did this for a number of years, and it's not as bad as you'd think regarding people constantly blocking the beam.


Jonathan


----------



## Mikes2cents

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ClemsonKev* 
Any suggestions?


[/IMG]
You might want to consider a shelf mount high enough on the back wall where the brick and fuse panel is or of course there is always the ceiling mount. On that back wall you ought to have enough offset to pull it off.


----------



## ClemsonKev

Great suggestions guys, thanks! I got some stuff to try now.

FYI, my company only has me in MA for 2-4 years so we are renting this house and I didn't want to be making any holes (i.e. no PJ ceiling mounting and my screen is a 106" Favi tri-pod which IMO is awesome at only $115 shipped from Amazon!


----------



## Mikes2cents

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ClemsonKev* 
Great suggestions guys, thanks! I got some stuff to try now.

FYI, my company only has me in MA for 2-4 years so we are renting this house and I didn't want to be making any holes (i.e. no PJ ceiling mounting and my screen is a 106" Favi tri-pod which IMO is awesome at only $115 shipped from Amazon!
Rubbermade/etc shelf that is high and big enough to hold the PJ. Done. No holes. Best bet is the other suggestion swapping sofa and end table. Done even faster and no expense.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Here is an idea of what I am talking about. I had the curio cabinet and simply put it on the back wall 20' from my 120" screen. It is high enough that it goes above seated people on the sofa 8' in front of it. Pic 2 shows how much of an offset I use (look at lens) to get around a support pole in my man cave. Hope this helps. Was going to permanent mount the PJ but will be selling it for a 3d unit soon. Too bad, less than 100 hrs on it and a darn good pic.


----------



## ClemsonKev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20955896
> 
> 
> Rubbermade/etc shelf that is high and big enough to hold the PJ. Done. No holes. Best bet is the other suggestion swapping sofa and end table. Done even faster and no expense.



Yea, I also like that swapping idea (I think my HDMI will make it that far and can use an ext. cord under the couch for power). But the rubbermade shelf? Haven't seen that.... have a link?


p.s. Just let the kids watch 1/2 of Thor before bed. 106 inches in 1080p and the 5.1 left them in awe. Supah dad!


----------



## Mikes2cents

Any shelf that suits your taste. I think you get the idea now.


----------



## silbenny

All these convergence issues has me interested in seeing out how my projector stacks up. Problem is that despite reading up to page 135, I'm still not 100% sure how my convergence stacks up. Sooo, here's my close up shot using the test pattern for convergence on Disney's WOW disc- any thoughts if my convergence is too far off? Thanks for your help guys!



side note- surprising good pic for a close up using blackberry torch phone


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silbenny* /forum/post/20963270
> 
> 
> All these convergence issues has me interested in seeing out how my projector stacks up. Problem is that despite reading up to page 135, I'm still not 100% sure how my convergence stacks up. Sooo, here's my close up shot using the test pattern for convergence on Disney's WOW disc- any thoughts if my convergence is too far off? Thanks for your help guys!
> 
> 
> 
> side note- surprising good pic for a close up using blackberry torch phone


 http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/convergence 


Here are some more patterns for you.


----------



## silbenny

Sharpened the projector best I could. Here's some more pics using the website link posted above.


Seems good, right?


----------



## Joesyah

Looks good too me!


----------



## dave1969

also looking to get the 8350. should i wait a month or 2 for a price drop? does anyone know if theres going to be one with the new models coming out?


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silbenny* /forum/post/20963604
> 
> 
> Sharpened the projector best I could. Here's some more pics using the website link posted above.
> 
> 
> Seems good, right?



Here's another one to see how defined your single pixels are http://www.w6rz.net/vertpix1.zip , you need a win zip, winrar or a similar program to unzip the file. I use this one to set my focus properly.


Follow the link below to the main site with plenty of test for your projector http://www.w6rz.net/ .


----------



## Crazy Eight

Has anyone had issues with the lack of KEY STONE controls with this projector? I've been running the Movie Mate 72 for several years and out of the box, placed on a flat surface 12.5 feet away from a 100" screen, the key stone was off... the 72 fortunately comes with Key Stone control, so it wasn't an issue in the slightest. I'm wondering if perfect Key Stone has been an issue because of the lack of controls, or is it fairly easy to just position the projector on a ceiling mount so that it's not an issue. Thanks.


----------



## jrwhite

The 8350 has lens shift, which eliminates the need for electronic keystone correction. The lens shift range is twice that of your MM72 .. you can place the projector lens up to half screen height above or below the screen top or bottom, or anywhere in-between.


Jonathan


----------



## browntrash

hello,


i just purchased and installed my 8350, and out of the box i am loving it. I have a question regarding picture calibration, forgive me if it has been addressed in one of the 175 prior pages of this thread. I see on projectorcentral.com they provide the below recommendation:


"To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."

8350 review - Projector Central 


Is this what everyone here has done?


thx


----------



## mcnizzel

has anyone tried to use an hdmi port saver or screw in type hdmi connector on the 8350.... how did you do it??


the screw you usually remove to fasten the hdmi port saver is partially obstructed by another layer of immovable plastic. It looks the same way on the pix on epson's website.


what am I missing?


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/20972314
> 
> 
> "To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."



Nope. Auto iris just annoyed me when using the desktop on my HTPC. It looked like I was running in VGA 16 color mode until it adjusted.


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20973267
> 
> 
> Nope. Auto iris just annoyed me when using the desktop on my HTPC. It looked like I was running in VGA 16 color mode until it adjusted.



i see. I did turn up the color to 7500k, looks good. How do you enable Epson SuperWhite?


----------



## boarder1995

Just picked up the 8350 at BB with an extended coverage they claim will offer 1 free bulb within 2 years if needed. Not sure if that's great or not, but cheap insurance. I like going local on some of these items, particularly if the unit doesn't work in my setting (brightness, screen, etc.). Also just ordered a ceiling mount from Monoprice to get things going until I can decide if a ceiling recessed motorized lift is worthwhile. Looking forward to getting it up once my ceiling gets put back in (huge house remodel taking place).


----------



## mkvien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/20974353
> 
> 
> i see. I did turn up the color to 7500k, looks good. How do you enable Epson SuperWhite?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20973267
> 
> 
> Nope. Auto iris just annoyed me when using the desktop on my HTPC. It looked like I was running in VGA 16 color mode until it adjusted.



Epson super white is in the advanced options under the disply menu or something (can't remember), it didn't seem to make a lot of difference to me.


As far as the auto iris, tell me more. I have had mine on fast since shortly after I bought it, what am I missing?


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkvien* /forum/post/20974720
> 
> 
> Epson super white is in the advanced options under the disply menu or something (can't remember), it didn't seem to make a lot of difference to me.
> 
> 
> As far as the auto iris, tell me more. I have had mine on fast since shortly after I bought it, what am I missing?



lol - i don't even know what an Auto Iris is...i have quite a bit of reading up to do. i just saw on this page they recommended enabling it.


----------



## sparky7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/20972314
> 
> 
> hello,
> 
> 
> i just purchased and installed my 8350, and out of the box i am loving it. I have a question regarding picture calibration, forgive me if it has been addressed in one of the 175 prior pages of this thread. I see on projectorcentral.com they provide the below recommendation:
> 
> 
> "To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."
> 
> 8350 review - Projector Central
> 
> 
> Is this what everyone here has done?
> 
> 
> thx




I used these.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php 


mark


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sparky7* /forum/post/20974972
> 
> 
> I used these.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php
> 
> 
> mark



sweet - thanks for the link! I will try the settings out ASAP.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boarder1995* /forum/post/20974559
> 
> 
> Just picked up the 8350 at BB with an extended coverage they claim will offer 1 free bulb within 2 years if needed. Not sure if that's great or not, but cheap insurance. I like going local on some of these items, particularly if the unit doesn't work in my setting (brightness, screen, etc.). Also just ordered a ceiling mount from Monoprice to get things going until I can decide if a ceiling recessed motorized lift is worthwhile. Looking forward to getting it up once my ceiling gets put back in (huge house remodel taking place).



Doesn't anyone whose a PJ Noob and who is considering a 8350 ever bother to read this Thread...or in the least ask for advice before buying at a place like BB? I realize it's a whopper of a thread, but things such as Warranty considerations and Bulb Replacement have been discussed countless times, so it's not like one has to consume the entire Thread to garner such specific information. Worst case...post and ask a question before you go out and spend cash at the behest of Sales People.


boarder1995.....you wasted your money on the Extended warranty. The Epson comes with 2 years coverage, and Epson has in place a policy were they will replace the Bulb if it fails within that time period.


....unless you can go back and take issue with the Store and get a refund. I know for certain that those "Extended warranties" are no Chump Change.


----------



## boarder1995

Good info brought back to the surface. Thanks!


----------



## spartangtr

Question about Dynamic Mode:


Will running my projector in dynamic mode burn the lamp out quicker?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spartangtr* /forum/post/20977380
> 
> 
> Question about Dynamic Mode:
> 
> 
> Will running my projector in dynamic mode burn the lamp out quicker?



Quicker than what, off? Of course LOL. OK, seriously though, anything that makes the picture brighter will burn the lamp out faster. Dynamic is the brightest setting. Also there is the power consumption setting (controls the light output of the PJ) where you select Normal, or Eco to extend the life of the lamp. You can fool with these settings to extend the life of the lamp or go for the picture you want knowing a lamp will be needed sometime down the road either way.


----------



## ClemsonKev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/20972314
> 
> 
> hello,
> 
> 
> i just purchased and installed my 8350, and out of the box i am loving it. I have a question regarding picture calibration, forgive me if it has been addressed in one of the 175 prior pages of this thread. I see on projectorcentral.com they provide the below recommendation:
> 
> 
> "To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."
> 
> 8350 review - Projector Central
> 
> 
> Is this what everyone here has done?
> 
> 
> thx



I just made these changes to my 2 week old 8350. I guess it looks a tad better/darker...... But I was thinking I had a 10 out of 10 looking picture before w/ the factor defaults honestly. FYI: using FIOS, XBOX360 and an WDTV (MKV 1080p movies) on the 8350 in a near pitch dark man cave.


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ClemsonKev* /forum/post/20978760
> 
> 
> I just made these changes to my 2 week old 8350. I guess it looks a tad better/darker...... But I was thinking I had a 10 out of 10 looking picture before w/ the factor defaults honestly. FYI: using FIOS, XBOX360 and an WDTV (MKV 1080p movies) on the 8350 in a near pitch dark man cave.



i enabled the auto iris, epson super white, and upped the color to 7500k. It looks better. Then i disabled the first 2, and left the color at 7500k, and i couldnt really tell a difference so i left the first 2 off. i also enabled eco mode, which didnt really make much of a difference to me. When i watch blu-rays i just enable dynamic. i am also in a pitch black man cave, but honestly even with 2 low watt lamps it looks 95% as good. i am very happy with the unit.


----------



## BSUCardinalfan

First, off, new member here wanting to say thanks to everyone who contributes to the wealth of information on this site.


My Old 51" Sony rear projection set died last weekend, so it is time to upgrade the basement setup. I have a couple questions that I think I've found answers to already and a couple that I haven't.


My setup is a basement room with 8' ceiling, the ceiling is actually exposed floor joists painted flat back with recessed lighting. I want to ceiling mount the projector to the exposed floor joists, so I need about an 8" drop ceiling mount. Projector will be either 12 or 16 feet from the screen, which will be roughly 100". There is one tiny window that will be directly above the screen and will be easily blocked off, and the recessed flood lights are dimmable. Primary uses for this room are movies, sports, xbox, and the kids use it to watch cartoons/disney channel frequently.


I'm stuck debating between the 8350 with a diy screen and a 60" panasonic plasma. mostly worried about picture quality for the kids, as they tend to have the lights on in the room when they watch.


While any feedback is greatly appreciated, my main question is the ceiling mount. I need an 8" drop, no more, and I am VERY budget conscious with this setup. I am planning the screen to cost me $150, I'll need 35' of hdmi cable, wire in an electrical outlet, buy the projector, and the mount. Trying to keep the total budget similar to the $1299 for the panasonic + $300 for a stand for said plasma.


Thoughts? oh, and if I do buy the projector, be prepared for a slew of diy screen questions, as the silverfire thread has done nothing but completely confuse me. (I'm an engineer, NOT an artist! I need clearly defined instructions. It is a weakness.)


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BSUCardinalfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First, off, new member here wanting to say thanks to everyone who contributes to the wealth of information on this site.
> 
> 
> My Old 51" Sony rear projection set died last weekend, so it is time to upgrade the basement setup. I have a couple questions that I think I've found answers to already and a couple that I haven't.
> 
> 
> My setup is a basement room with 8' ceiling, the ceiling is actually exposed floor joists painted flat back with recessed lighting. I want to ceiling mount the projector to the exposed floor joists, so I need about an 8" drop ceiling mount. Projector will be either 12 or 16 feet from the screen, which will be roughly 100". There is one tiny window that will be directly above the screen and will be easily blocked off, and the recessed flood lights are dimmable. Primary uses for this room are movies, sports, xbox, and the kids use it to watch cartoons/disney channel frequently.
> 
> 
> I'm stuck debating between the 8350 with a diy screen and a 60" panasonic plasma. mostly worried about picture quality for the kids, as they tend to have the lights on in the room when they watch.
> 
> 
> While any feedback is greatly appreciated, my main question is the ceiling mount. I need an 8" drop, no more, and I am VERY budget conscious with this setup. I am planning the screen to cost me $150, I'll need 35' of hdmi cable, wire in an electrical outlet, buy the projector, and the mount. Trying to keep the total budget similar to the $1299 for the panasonic + $300 for a stand for said plasma.
> 
> 
> Thoughts? oh, and if I do buy the projector, be prepared for a slew of diy screen questions, as the silverfire thread has done nothing but completely confuse me. (I'm an engineer, NOT an artist! I need clearly defined instructions. It is a weakness.)



How much lighting is needed for the kids? I have two 60w lamps near the rear of my otherwise pitch black room and the 8350 performs great. The lamps are 15ft back.


----------



## BSUCardinalfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/20979888
> 
> 
> How much lighting is needed for the kids? I have two 60w lamps near the rear of my otherwise pitch black room and the 8350 performs great. The lamps are 15ft back.



that is up to them, I guess. right now there are five flood lights on dimmers in the room. it is REALLY bright in there when they are all the way up. I suspect they will learn to dim them a bit when they want to watch.


I have an extra switch I am currently not using, wouldn't be too difficult to put the two lamps closest to the screen on a separate switch, that would help.


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BSUCardinalfan* /forum/post/20979959
> 
> 
> that is up to them, I guess. right now there are five flood lights on dimmers in the room. it is REALLY bright in there when they are all the way up. I suspect they will learn to dim them a bit when they want to watch.
> 
> 
> I have an extra switch I am currently not using, wouldn't be too difficult to put the two lamps closest to the screen on a separate switch, that would help.



if you have light control capability, i wouldn't worry about the projector. i'll try to post pics of mine with the lamps on.


----------



## 6strings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spartangtr* /forum/post/20977380
> 
> 
> Question about Dynamic Mode:
> 
> 
> Will running my projector in dynamic mode burn the lamp out quicker?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20977530
> 
> 
> Quicker than what, off? Of course LOL. OK, seriously though, anything that makes the picture brighter will burn the lamp out faster. Dynamic is the brightest setting. Also there is the power consumption setting (controls the light output of the PJ) where you select Normal, or Eco to extend the life of the lamp. You can fool with these settings to extend the life of the lamp or go for the picture you want knowing a lamp will be needed sometime down the road either way.



Here is a re-post of a test I did that seems to prove otherwise:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *6strings* /forum/post/20881983
> 
> 
> I have tested the power usage with a "Kill A Watt" meter and there is only a 1 watt difference between dynamic and cinema 1 (due to increased fan speed?) so the lamp does not automatically switch to normal in dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> Here are the power measurements.
> 
> 
> Cinema 1 mode:eco=209 watts/ normal=259 watts
> 
> Dynamic mode :eco=210 watts/ normal=260 watts
> 
> 
> So if you like it bright like I do, I think its safe to say you are not reducing your lamp life by using dynamic or living room mode.



To sum things up,the dimmer/more contrast color modes are achieved buy a filter not decreased lamp power.

Only the eco/normal power setting will effect bulb life.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *6strings* /forum/post/20980830
> 
> 
> Here is a re-post of a test I did that seems to prove otherwise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To sum things up,the darker/more contrast color modes are achieved buy a filter not decreased lamp power.
> 
> Only the eco/normal power setting will effect bulb life.



Not to start a urinating contest but how does this prove otherwise? One watt is more power is it not? While admittedly it does not appear to make much difference in your testing, it is a difference, and of course the main difference being in the Normal vs Eco modes as stated. Now if your point is there is not much difference in picture modes when the power consumption setting is the same, I agree and that is why I posted "compared to what". Thanks for reposting that. I had forgotten about your observations.


Hopefully this does not go south because we are saying the same thing.


----------



## 6strings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20980902
> 
> 
> Not to start a urinating contest but how does this prove otherwise? One watt is more power is it not? While admittedly it does not appear to make much difference in your testing, it is a difference, and of course the main difference being in the Normal vs Eco modes as stated. Now if your point is there is not much difference in picture modes when the power consumption setting is the same, I agree and that is why I posted "compared to what". Thanks for reposting that. I had forgotten about your observations.
> 
> 
> Hopefully this does not go south because we are saying the same thing.



You seemed to state that dynamic mode will reduce bulb life,I was just trying to clear that up.It gave me piece of mind and might do the same to others that like it "bright".


I think it is safe to say the extra 1 watt goes to the fan as you can easily hear it speed up in the bright color modes so it should have no effect on bulb life.


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *6strings* /forum/post/20980963
> 
> 
> You seemed to state that dynamic mode will reduce bulb life,I was just trying to clear that up.It gave me piece of mind and might do the same to others that like it "bright".
> 
> 
> I think it is safe to say the extra 1 watt goes to the fan as you can easily hear it speed up in the bright color modes so it should have no effect on bulb life.



will increasing the color temp from 6500k to 7500k decrease bulb life?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BSUCardinalfan* /forum/post/20979959
> 
> 
> that is up to them, I guess. right now there are five flood lights on dimmers in the room. it is REALLY bright in there when they are all the way up. I suspect they will learn to dim them a bit when they want to watch.
> 
> 
> I have an extra switch I am currently not using, wouldn't be too difficult to put the two lamps closest to the screen on a separate switch, that would help.



I'm also a father of little ones that like the lights on while they watch TV. If your basement also serves as their playroom and picture quality is important to you, then the projector is a terrible option. The room has to be completely dark (or close to it) to get the best image quality. Usually, my kids will start watching a movie, but will often lose interest and leave to go to the playroom because it's too dark.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Unlike old CRT (tube) projectors which build up the image by adding light to a dark baseline, current displays are subtractive... they start with a fixed-value intensity/color light source and filter it through the LCD panels, DLP processing, etc.


Our Epsons give you two choices of starting values of intensity. There seems to be a slight color temp shift but that's just a side-effect.


Beyond that nothing else really impacts lamp life at all. Increasing contrast, brightness, color levels and so on are handled by the filtering effect of the LCD panels with some additional subtractive effects from the iris (which I leave off... ) and what seems to be a filter that gets introduced into the light path when using natural and cinema modes. There sounds like some gears grinding when switching from living room or dynamic to cine/natural.


Now that I've overcome some missteps in my earlier calibration efforts, my 8350 looks really, really nice. Colors are natural, skin tones lifelike, grass running a more natural range without the neon-yellow overtones. You know you've got a good result when you start to notice the very subtle gradations and variety in colors and intensity which makes the mind "buy" an image as more than just blobs of overblown color laid over a foundation of excessive contrast. More is not always better!


----------



## cdnpaul33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20981466
> 
> 
> I'm also a father of little ones that like the lights on while they watch TV. If your basement also serves as their playroom and picture quality is important to you, then the projector is a terrible option. The room has to be completely dark (or close to it) to get the best image quality. Usually, my kids will start watching a movie, but will often lose interest and leave to go to the playroom because it's too dark.



Wow, I find this surprising. With the lights dimmed a bit my old Sanyo PLV-Z5 is more than sufficient to keep the kids entertained for the last 3-4 years. Prior to that, I had a Optoma in a similar setting and no issues either. They're 7 and 8 now and think that everyone has a pj in their basement.


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/20981785
> 
> 
> Unlike old CRT (tube) projectors which build up the image by adding light to a dark baseline, current displays are subtractive... they start with a fixed-value intensity/color light source and filter it through the LCD panels, DLP processing, etc.
> 
> 
> Our Epsons give you two choices of starting values of intensity. There seems to be a slight color temp shift but that's just a side-effect.
> 
> 
> Beyond that nothing else really impacts lamp life at all. Increasing contrast, brightness, color levels and so on are handled by the filtering effect of the LCD panels with some additional subtractive effects from the iris (which I leave off... ) and what seems to be a filter that gets introduced into the light path when using natural and cinema modes. There sounds like some gears grinding when switching from living room or dynamic to cine/natural.
> 
> 
> Now that I've overcome some missteps in my earlier calibration efforts, my 8350 looks really, really nice. Colors are natural, skin tones lifelike, grass running a more natural range without the neon-yellow overtones. You know you've got a good result when you start to notice the very subtle gradations and variety in colors and intensity which makes the mind "buy" an image as more than just blobs of overblown color laid over a foundation of excessive contrast. More is not always better!



good info. Would you recommend these settings for calibration?

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20981466
> 
> 
> I'm also a father of little ones that like the lights on while they watch TV. If your basement also serves as their playroom and picture quality is important to you, then the projector is a terrible option. The room has to be completely dark (or close to it) to get the best image quality. Usually, my kids will start watching a movie, but will often lose interest and leave to go to the playroom because it's too dark.



I have the complete opposite experience. My 7 month old son absolutely loves his Baby Einstein on this projector and my nieces and nephews (ranging from 2-13 years old) are absolutely captivated by it. They have absolutely no problem watching entire movies with the lights on.


----------



## Mikes2cents

I would not recommend a pj for child viewing of cartoons etc. That is what they make regular TVs for. That is just my opinion.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20981466
> 
> 
> I'm also a father of little ones that like the lights on while they watch TV. If your basement also serves as their playroom and picture quality is important to you, then the projector is a terrible option. The room has to be completely dark (or close to it) to get the best image quality. Usually, my kids will start watching a movie, but will often lose interest and leave to go to the playroom because it's too dark.



Let me clarify... If it's a movie request that my kids love, then yes, they sit and watch and love it. But the vast majority of the time, my kids prefer to be in a brightly lit room (not just dimly lit for a projector) so they can play around with the TV on in the background. I guess it all depends on whether you use this room as their playroom as well. If you do, and there's no other TV in the room, then the projector may not be the best way to go.


----------



## jeremytodd1

Can anyone reccomend a low profile ceiling mount for the Epson 8350?


My ceiling is just a tad over 7 feet and I want to have the projector as close to the ceiling as possible. Cheaper is better but I don't mind spending a bit to get a nicer mount. Anywhere from $50-$100 I guess, maybe just a tad over if necessary.


----------



## Acesfullup

I have just unboxed my 8350 and I'm somewhat ambivalent. I love the colors and the lack of rainbows!


However, I'm concerned about the bleeding of blacks and whites. This looks concerning to me. Please take a look a these pics and let me know your thoughts. The camera is dead solid on a tripod.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/630874/DSC_5819.JPG 

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/630874/DSC_5820.JPG 


Thanks!


----------



## jrwhite

No, you're not overconcerned. Are you sure you are completley focused? Do the 8350 menu's itself look the same way?


If your focus is as good as you can get it, and the it's the same with the 8350 menus, then you have an optical issue with the PJ. Call Epson.


Jonathan


----------



## Acesfullup

Thanks for the feedback Jonathan.


100% certain in focus and shot from a tripod. You can tell it's in focus because the pixel edges are tack sharp. All menus and text are like this across the entire screen. There is minimal lens shift also.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/20986900
> 
> 
> No, you're not overconcerned. Are you sure you are completley focused? Do the 8350 menu's itself look the same way?
> 
> Call Epson.



I was fearful of that.


----------



## jrwhite

And the 8350 native menu's look the same? If yes, then call Epson and explain the situation. Make sure you explain this problem was out of the box, so you get a new unit as a replacement. They'll overnight one to you.


Jonathan


----------



## Acesfullup

Yes. The included picture is from a native menu. Also, all menus look the same. In fact, they look worse from the naked eye. Disappointed because UPS lost it for a week and now this. Ugh.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/20986980
> 
> 
> And the 8350 native menu's look the same? If yes, then call Epson and explain the situation. Make sure you explain this problem was out of the box, so you get a new unit as a replacement. They'll overnight one to you.
> 
> 
> Jonathan


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeremytodd1* /forum/post/20986827
> 
> 
> Can anyone reccomend a low profile ceiling mount for the Epson 8350?
> 
> 
> My ceiling is just a tad over 7 feet and I want to have the projector as close to the ceiling as possible. Cheaper is better but I don't mind spending a bit to get a nicer mount. Anywhere from $50-$100 I guess, maybe just a tad over if necessary.



Chief RPA 168, Peerless plate is the way to go. Do some searches in the forum many posts will come up about this combo.


----------



## jrwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup* /forum/post/20987033
> 
> 
> Yes. The included picture is from a native menu. Also, all menus look the same. In fact, they look worse from the naked eye. Disappointed because UPS lost it for a week and now this. Ugh.



UPS losing it for a week might have something to do with the condition of the optics!


Jonathan


----------



## Acesfullup

Good point about UPS. The box was in decent shape when it arrived, but who knows.


I just got off the phone with Epson. They are sending a new one out. The phone tech looked at the above pic and his comment was "wow, that's about the worst I've ever seen...sorry about that."


Again, thanks for your guidance Jonathan.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/20987082
> 
> 
> UPS losing it for a week might have something to do with the condition of the optics!
> 
> 
> Jonathan


----------



## jrwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup* /forum/post/20987132
> 
> 
> Good point about UPS. The box was in decent shape when it arrived, but who knows.
> 
> 
> I just got off the phone with Epson. They are sending a new one out. The phone tech looked at the above pic and his comment was "wow, that's about the worst I've ever seen...sorry about that."
> 
> 
> Again, thanks for your guidance Jonathan.



No problem Aces. I've had great luck with Epson. I have a few of them myself, and have recommended / helped install for half a dozen friends. No issues at all. I had a replacement lamp die at 900 hours in our livingroom HC400 last year, and I just popped in the original lamp that is still going with over 3500 hours on the clock. It's still bright enough for lights on viewing in our livingroom setup with a HP screen. My wife wanted me to contact Epson about our early lamp failure ( it lasted over a year), but, since all of our Epsons have been so reliable, and all lamps I've had have far exceeded their expected life, I couldn't find it in my heart to do it. None of my pj's, or those of friends, have shown any polarizer / panel degradation. These are all 'organic' panels.


Our neighbour probably has close to 5000 hours on her HC20, and it still works .. with the original lamp ( abeit a bit dim ).


I've never had to use the Epson warranty, but, it's a good feeling to know it's there. Many here have had to exchange units multiple times to get one they felt was satisfactory, but, you'll have to give it to Epson, they've accommodated every one of them without any question or hassle.


Since our livingroom HC400 is still alive and kicking, the 8350 has now been relegated to the backup / netflix / gaming projector duties in our basement CRT batcave theatre.


When the CRT dies, although I've lusted after JVC, I'll probably go the Epson RLCD route, just because of my experience with them.


Jonathan


----------



## Manos777

"To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K (more below on this). After these simple adjustments, the projector is transformed into an inexpensive 1080p powerhouse for dark room viewing."

8350 review - Projector Central 


Is this what everyone here has done?


thx[/quote]


No. I have Super White off, and I have HDMI Extended On. Then I used the THX pattern in my Pixar movies to set contrast and brightness. Ended up with -11/11 (or the other way around, search prior post from my screen name for accuracy). I rarely engage the auto iris. The color temperature is up to you. I prefer 6500K.


----------



## Manos777

Here are my settings:


Brightness: -11

Contrast: +11

Color Sat: 0

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 0


Epson Super White: Off

HDMI Range: Expanded

Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)

ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)

Auto Iris: High Speed (although I have backed away from this due to noise during quiet scenes)


----------



## develvjd-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20981466
> 
> 
> I'm also a father of little ones that like the lights on while they watch TV. If your basement also serves as their playroom and picture quality is important to you, then the projector is a terrible option. The room has to be completely dark (or close to it) to get the best image quality. Usually, my kids will start watching a movie, but will often lose interest and leave to go to the playroom because it's too dark.



100% disagree. I have a 6, 4, and 2 year old. They freakin' love this thing as much as I do and we watch with the lights on. Great performance using DIY Silver Fire.


Of course contrast improves in a darker room, but I actually find myself watching a LOT of TV with lights on as well, especially sports due to the brighter images. I just keep the three lights directly above the screen off.


Screeny from the basement from last year's Super Bowl:











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20983073
> 
> 
> I would not recommend a pj for child viewing of cartoons etc. That is what they make regular TVs for. That is just my opinion.



Why? (I lol'd)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/20984147
> 
> 
> Let me clarify... If it's a movie request that my kids love, then yes, they sit and watch and love it. But the vast majority of the time, my kids prefer to be in a brightly lit room (not just dimly lit for a projector) so they can play around with the TV on in the background. I guess it all depends on whether you use this room as their playroom as well. If you do, and there's no other TV in the room, then the projector may not be the best way to go.



I'd submit that if you combine the right projector with the right installation with the right screen, viewing in mid/high-ambient light conditions can be done quite well.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeremytodd1* /forum/post/20986827
> 
> 
> Can anyone reccomend a low profile ceiling mount for the Epson 8350?
> 
> 
> My ceiling is just a tad over 7 feet and I want to have the projector as close to the ceiling as possible. Cheaper is better but I don't mind spending a bit to get a nicer mount. Anywhere from $50-$100 I guess, maybe just a tad over if necessary.


*Chief RPA 168* Just 4" height including the dedicated PJ Interface Plate of you attach the 6 point Adjustable section directly onto the Ceiling, or use a 1/2" Plywood Plate between the Ceiling and the Mount.


Solid, Low Profile, simply the best option out there.


----------



## petetherock

Considering this as my first projector since the Infocus 4850.


I have a peculiar room issue:


Can this work for a room, where the PJ needs to sit at the rear, 5.8m or so from the screen, which can only be 82" diagonal?


I only have a space for a 2m wide screen, and that includes the casing. Will also appreciate a suggestion for a budget screen, motorised or otherwise.

I was looking at the "Favi" brand, 82 HD.


Thank you.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/20993150
> 
> 
> 100% disagree. I have a 6, 4, and 2 year old. They freakin' love this thing as much as I do and we watch with the lights on. Great performance using DIY Silver Fire.
> 
> 
> Of course contrast improves in a darker room, but I actually find myself watching a LOT of TV with lights on as well, especially sports due to the brighter images. I just keep the three lights directly above the screen off.
> 
> 
> Screeny from the basement from last year's Super Bowl:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd submit that if you combine the right projector with the right installation with the right screen, viewing in mid/high-ambient light conditions can be done quite well.



What he's say'in.


And BTW, to have your proverbial Ambient Light cake and consume the Image with gusto, one needs only use easily adaptable and known parameters involving Light management. Replacing the lights in Cans w/Spots, effective use of Dimmer switches. Considering a decent non-reflective paint scheme.


Basically speaking, if someone "really wants" the Big Picture, they are going to consider common sense options that make such not just a possibility to covet, but a reality to have.


Outright dismissal of the entire concept based on any experience that does not include those aspects is not just wrong, it serves to mislead others who might consider such as a viable choice.


develvjd-'s example shows totally righteous thinking. The forward Cans are switched separately from the rears. The wall to the left of the screen and the Tray are painted with a less reflective color scheme. The Pjs throw is optimally close to afford maximum use of the available Lumens.


Granted, if you omit most or all of those things from the equation, you'll have a lousy image...if any at all. But golly gee....that wouldn't make much sense to do that...especially when so many examples of righteously designed rooms and effective PJ / Screen combos exist. And/or if you have already gone down that misguided path and find yourself...and the application wanting, then make a few changes. Presto.


So I just gotta ask OSUDesi, do you own a PJ?

Is it a 8350?

What type of screen do you have?

What size?

What is your throw distance?

What type of lighting do you have and how are those lights located and controlled?

What color are your walls & ceiling?


Those are the questions we always ask if given the chance to interact with someone before the die is cast, or ask so as to address such issues if they are brought into play afterward.


Myself, I have dedicated the last 5 years to constantly improving the ability of people with PJs to watch "really big" imagery in low to modest ambient light (...long before it was "cool" to do so...) with a wide variety of PJs. And I've pretty much have it nailed down tight too. And...it just keeps getting better. But performing miracles is not what's being done...just simple, common sense room planning combined with effective Screen design and the appropriate choice of a Projector. When the PJ is already present, or a limitation in budget or work ethic confines the available choices, it's really just a matter if adjusting the other parameters to fit around the PJ's performance envelope and what can...and cannot be accommodated with adapting a room's environment.


The 8350 makes it all gell a lot easier than most...but lemmie tell ya sumpthin'...., once the Epson 3010 / 5010 / 6010 -2400 Lumen beamers hit the streets, it's all just gonna be all the "Mo Bedder".


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petetherock* /forum/post/20993499
> 
> 
> Considering this as my first projector since the Infocus 4850.
> 
> 
> I have a peculiar room issue:
> 
> 
> Can this work for a room, where the PJ needs to sit at the rear, 5.8m or so from the screen, which can only be 82" diagonal?
> 
> 
> I only have a space for a 2m wide screen, and that includes the casing. Will also appreciate a suggestion for a budget screen, motorised or otherwise.
> 
> I was looking at the "Favi" brand, 82 HD.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



5.2 meters is the absolute limit the PJ can be from 82" (208cm diagonal) Screen


....and you don't want to crowd the PJ that far back into the Focal length so you should consider something like 4.90 meters. If you can be at least that flexible in determining your Throw Distance, you'll have no issues to deal with.


As to the Screen...will you have ambient light considerations? If not, it's simply a matter of finding a source for a decent, 1.0 gain Fixed or Retractable Screen that fits your budget...because your not gonna have any issues whatsoever as far as available lumens.


----------



## petetherock

Thanks for the quick reply. At night it will be almost dark - I will be using blackout curtains, but since it is a living area, I expect some light to seep into the room.


The screen sits between two speakers, which are going to be about 1m high, and the screen will come down from a ceiling / false ceiling mount of between 2.8 to 3m.

I will sit at the 2.8m point on a lounge chair, with my eye line about 940mm off the ground.


Will a typical screen be on top of the speaker cabinets, and if so, will I be straining to see the centre of the picture?


Because if the screen ends on top of the speakers, I could get a screen which measures 92" and a 2.2m width, casing included.


Then I suppose I could keep it at the back of the room, where it will be sited on top of a set of bookcases from Ikea at a height of 2370mm?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20993546
> 
> 
> 5.2 meters is the absolute limit the PJ can be from 82" (208cm diagonal) Screen
> 
> 
> ....and you don't want to crowd the PJ that far back into the Focal length so you should consider something like 4.90 meters. If you can be at least that flexible in determining your Throw Distance, you'll have no issues to deal with.
> 
> 
> As to the Screen...will you have ambient light considerations? If not, it's simply a matter of finding a source for a decent, 1.0 gain Fixed or Retractable Screen that fits your budget...because your not gonna have any issues whatsoever as far as available lumens.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *develvjd-* /forum/post/20993150
> 
> 
> 
> Why? (I lol'd)





Well for me it is a matter of cost, not whether or not the kids enjoy it because they are definitely wowed by the big screen. Basically for most of the cartoons and children programs they would be fine with a 720p 32" LCD because half of the time they are playing with something and half the time watching. They seem more concerned with being able to watch what they want than what it is displayed on. In my situation we use a 61" TV and that is plenty for kids and our normal viewing. Movies and some sporting events, or favorite programs the screen comes down.


BTW you have a great setup there. Very clean and uncluttered. Your pictures along with others in this thread helped convince me that the 8350 would work in my basement. I am just not willing to put the hours on my PJ for children to have background entertainment.


----------



## The Sandman

Obviously its too early to tell as all 8350s are still under warranty but for previous epson products was it worth it to get an extended warranty. Having a two factory warranty what are the chances that something will go wrong after two years that didn't go wrong in the first two. My projector will just be sitting in the same place for the years to come until 3D becomes mainstream. The lamps seem questionable but most extended warranties don't cover them anyway.


----------



## greighn

I've had an 8350 for almost a year now with about 800+ hours on it and I've loved it. However, recently I've started to notice a soft change in the brightness every couple of seconds. It's not a big change (perhaps less than going from eco to full on the bulb) but it is enough to be noticable (and annoying). It happens about every 6-8 seconds. At first I thought it was the source, but I now notice it with DVDs & Blu-rays, using an Oppo BDP-93, and through my Verizon FioS HDTV box.


I don't have the auto-iris enabled (found it too noisy in my room). The flickering does seem to stop when I take the bulb off eco and put it on full brightness.


I am resisting contacting Epson as I don't want them to ship me some refurb unit on the hope it won't have this problem. The one I have works flawlessly except for this. Plus I suspect they won't replace my bulb until it actually blows.


Has anyone else noticed anything like this? Is this possibly a sign that my bulb is getting ready to go? Are there any other settings (besides the iris) that could cause something like this?


Thanks.


-Gary.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/20997891
> 
> 
> I've had an 8350 for almost a year now with about 800+ hours on it and I've loved it. However, recently I've started to notice a soft change in the brightness every couple of seconds. It's not a big change (perhaps less than going from eco to full on the bulb) but it is enough to be noticable (and annoying).
> 
> Has anyone else noticed anything like this?
> 
> 
> Is this possibly a sign that my bulb is getting ready to go?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Gary.



Hi, Gary,


I've been noticing on various threads (concerning bulb life with the 8350 and 8700 projectors) that the eight-hundred-hour mark comes into play quite often. Many do see a longer bulb life, but many are also seeing bulb failure around the eight-hundred-hour mark.


I personally don't mind changing a bulb each year, as long as the projector provides the great picture quality right up until the bulb's demise. I suppose that's because (over the past couple of decades) I've paid exorbitant amounts of money for high-end projectors that never came close to this kind of picture quality or bulb life. Recent advances and falling costs for quality projectors has been quite remarkable.


And maybe, so customers aren't caught off guard, the manufacturers should state that there is always a chance of a bulb not reaching the estimated hour rating.


----------



## jrwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/20997891
> 
> 
> I've had an 8350 for almost a year now with about 800+ hours on it and I've loved it. However, recently I've started to notice a soft change in the brightness every couple of seconds. It's not a big change (perhaps less than going from eco to full on the bulb) but it is enough to be noticable (and annoying). It happens about every 6-8 seconds. At first I thought it was the source, but I now notice it with DVDs & Blu-rays, using an Oppo BDP-93, and through my Verizon FioS HDTV box.
> 
> 
> I don't have the auto-iris enabled (found it too noisy in my room). The flickering does seem to stop when I take the bulb off eco and put it on full brightness.
> 
> 
> I am resisting contacting Epson as I don't want them to ship me some refurb unit on the hope it won't have this problem. The one I have works flawlessly except for this. Plus I suspect they won't replace my bulb until it actually blows.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else noticed anything like this? Is this possibly a sign that my bulb is getting ready to go? Are there any other settings (besides the iris) that could cause something like this?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Gary.



I've had flicker on virtually every digital I've owned. It's quite common around the 1000 hour mark. Since you mention it goes away when you switch to normal lamp mode, this confirms it.


What's happening is that as the electrodes in the lamp have warn, 2 equidistant spots have developed, thus the arc jumps between the two spots and 'flickers.


Since you're seeing the flickering in econo, just run the lamp on high for about 10 hours or so, then revert back to econo. The flickering will most likely be gone. This has always worked for me.


BTW, it's not the sign that a lamp is failing. A drastic reduction in lumens is usually the sign of imminent failure.


Jonathan


----------



## The Sandman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman* /forum/post/20996989
> 
> 
> Obviously its too early to tell as all 8350s are still under warranty but for previous epson products was it worth it to get an extended warranty. Having a two factory warranty what are the chances that something will go wrong after two years that didn't go wrong in the first two. My projector will just be sitting in the same place for the years to come until 3D becomes mainstream. The lamps seem questionable but most extended warranties don't cover them anyway.



Bump


----------



## eat meat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/20986980
> 
> 
> Make sure you explain this problem was out of the box, so you get a new unit as a replacement.
> 
> Jonathan



can you show me where it states they will send a new unit?


----------



## eat meat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videonut* /forum/post/20998041
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've paid exorbitant amounts of money for high-end projectors that never came close to this kind of picture quality or bulb life. Recent advances and falling costs for quality projectors has been quite remarkable.



Id like to know what "high end" projectors.


----------



## greighn

jrwhite &videonut,


Thanks for the reply and the excellent explanations. I will certainly try the suggestion about putting the bulb on high for the next couple of days and see if that helps.


Again, thanks!!


-Gary.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/20998966
> 
> 
> Id like to know what "high end" projectors.



Probably not since he posted "over the past couple of decades". Those are probably long forgotten, but I am sure they were expensive. Don't mean to jump in but thought you might have missed that.


----------



## jimmueller

Hi All,


I haven't read all 176 pages of this thread, but I'm researching installation of a 8350 in my apartment living room. The room is 13.5' wide, 8' tall, 15' deep. The screen would need to be around 37" from the wall behind it so it's in front of the plasma and floor standing speakers. I would like to have the screen cover as much of the floor standing speakers as possible, so the screen would need to be at least 94" wide.


Using this link, http://accuscreens1-px.rtrk.com/proj...Calculator.asp , it appears the room isn't deep enough... depending upon how close to the rear wall I can mount the projector. I assume I want to mount it as close to the ceiling as possible due to the low ceiling height. Does mounting it high and aiming it down pose problems?


What about the screen? I'm looking for one that will roll-up so I could still watch the plasma if desired. I'd like it to be audio transparent fabric because the speakers will be behind it. However I'm not finding any bang for my buck solutions for the screen. Recommended colors, gain, etc?


I plan to paint the wall behind the screen a flat cabin red and the side walls maybe a complementary flat beige or flat dark brown. The ceiling is popcorn white and I doubt I'd be allowed to paint the ceiling even if I wanted to do so.


Are these still the recommended mounting products for low-profile mounting the 8350?


Chief #RPA 168

Peerless ACC 570

Schedule 40 PVC 1-1/2" pipe w/Threaded Couplings


Thanks for your feedback!


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eat meat* /forum/post/20998940
> 
> 
> can you show me where it states they will send a new unit?



I don't know about an explicit guarantee, but I specifically asked if Epson was sending me a refurb'd or new one, and the Tech said a new one. I will report my experience upon receipt of my replacement.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Jim, might I suggest you ditch the expensive audio transparent screen idea becasue it is too expensive for an apartment and you would be better served moving your speakers out for better separation. This would allow you to perhaps move the screen closer to the wall but I do not know. Also, be aware if you are not, that you can shelf mount the 8350 due to its lens shift and have excellent results. My 8350 is 20' away from my 120" pull down screen. The PJ is on a curio cabinet on the opposite wall about 5' up. My screen pulls down in front of my TV and entertainment center. The PJ is high enough that when I sit on the sofa between the screen and PJ there is no issue.


Not trying to change your mind but I know how apartment life is and nothing there is permanent so I would go minimalist with what will work until you get into a more permanent location. If that is not your situation then someone will hopefully be along to assist you. Good luck.


Edit, here is what I am talking about, pardon the mess because it is a real multipurpose room.


Edit again, just go back 3-5 pages and you can see pics of my 8350 on top of the cabinet. Does not want to load right now.


----------



## petetherock

Hi

Can anyone help?

I am not sure if at 2.8m away from a possible 92" screen, will I be staring upwards too much?


I don't want that "sitting in the front row at the cinema" experience - the feeling of nausea of staring upwards at something too high and wide.


Thanks



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petetherock* /forum/post/20993610
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. At night it will be almost dark - I will be using blackout curtains, but since it is a living area, I expect some light to seep into the room.
> 
> 
> The screen sits between two speakers, which are going to be about 1m high, and the screen will come down from a ceiling / false ceiling mount of between 2.8 to 3m.
> 
> I will sit at the 2.8m point on a lounge chair, with my eye line about 940mm off the ground.
> 
> 
> Will a typical screen be on top of the speaker cabinets, and if so, will I be straining to see the centre of the picture?
> 
> 
> Because if the screen ends on top of the speakers, I could get a screen which measures 92" and a 2.2m width, casing included.
> 
> 
> Then I suppose I could keep it at the back of the room, where it will be sited on top of a set of bookcases from Ikea at a height of 2370mm?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/20993500
> 
> 
> 
> So I just gotta ask OSUDesi, do you own a PJ?
> 
> Is it a 8350?
> 
> What type of screen do you have?
> 
> What size?
> 
> What is your throw distance?
> 
> What type of lighting do you have and how are those lights located and controlled?
> 
> What color are your walls & ceiling?



MississippiMan,


Yes, I have an 8350. (Like I have nothing better to do than post about a product that I don't have) No, I'm not going to unnecessarily list down all the specs of my setup... I'm too lazy. All you have to know is that it's very well thought out with sconces, cans, multiple dimmers, dark paint, Elite gray screen, blah blah blah blah blah.


The part of BSUcardinalfan's post I was addressing was:


"I'm stuck debating between the 8350 with a diy screen and a 60" panasonic plasma. mostly worried about picture quality for the kids, as they tend to have the lights on in the room when they watch."


He's concerned about picture quality and being able to keep the lights on. He did not include "I want the biggest image possible". For me, and my experience with my kids, it's a no brainer... the plasma is the best option. Allow me to be extra redundant... you don't need to worry about picture quality and lighting conditions so much with a plasma.


In addition, kids can keep a plasma on all day and not have to think about the bulb burning out. Kids don't have to worry about turning on a separate audio system to watch Sponge Bob with a plasma. I'd go on and on, but that's not my point.


My point is, I'm all about my Epson, I love it. Like you, I am an Epson 8350 cheerleader. Rah rah rah. But it is possible to have a situation like the one above where a projector may not be the best option and that's okay. No, really... that's okay.


----------



## isopolar

OSUDesi wrote

> keep a plasma on all day and not have to think about the bulb burning out


For me, plasma and LCD are out and it's which PJ is next. I don't have an 8350 but am considering one - clearly, it seems the best LCD PJ value. I'm also considering popular DLPs selling for similar amounts as the 8350..


I don't have kids. But I do like to use a PJ as a monitor and for games and TV for up to 6 hours at a time, as well as watch movies normally. Also I noticed that around once a year on average I accidentally leave a PJ on overnight.


All I could find in the 8350 PDF manual about this is the warranty page saying "This warranty covers only normal use...Twenty-four hours per day or other excessive continual use is not considered normal use"


After 3 years my way of using it uglied up my Panasonic PJ with organic LCD panels...first the blue polarizer then the blue LCD. Going on 4 years, still OK as a monitor but not for movies.


I understand 8350 has inorganic LCD and thus can handle heat stress better. But I am wondering if I am better off with a DLP. Advice welcome, and even if I don't go that way the 8350 does appear to be an outstanding value.


----------



## Crazy Eight

Does this PJ support 24fps? I was looking at it's specs on Blu-ray dot com and every 1080p Epson projector (including the 8100) was listed as 1080/24p capable with exception to the 8350.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Crazy Eight* /forum/post/20999801
> 
> 
> Does this PJ support 24fps? I was looking at it's specs on Blu-ray dot com and every 1080p Epson projector (including the 8100) was listed as 1080/24p capable with exception to the 8350.



The information you are looking for can be found in the user guide 


The answer is yes, it does support 1080/24p via HDMI.


----------



## Allforce

Hi can anyone help with how to use these settings as mentioned earlier:



> Quote:
> To get it set for optimal video quality, the first order of business was to turn on Epson Super White, engage the auto iris, and change color temperature from 6500K to 7500K



And keep them as like a "quick setting" in the menus? I'm having a difficult time understanding how this thing keeps settings stored for different devices, like a friend came over to watch a football game and wanted it set to "Living Room" one time just to see how it is, now the Epson defaults to this every time I turn to the TV setting (HDMI1). I set up movies on HDMI2 for my blu-ray player and did like the THX calibration and those settings stick as well, which I'm happy with.


I'd like to have a range of different outputs including the one above so I can quickly cycle through them if I want to.


----------



## jimmueller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/20999306
> 
> 
> Jim, might I suggest you ditch the expensive audio transparent screen idea becasue it is too expensive for an apartment and you would be better served moving your speakers out for better separation. This would allow you to perhaps move the screen closer to the wall but I do not know. Also, be aware if you are not, that you can shelf mount the 8350 due to its lens shift and have excellent results. My 8350 is 20' away from my 120" pull down screen. The PJ is on a curio cabinet on the opposite wall about 5' up. My screen pulls down in front of my TV and entertainment center. The PJ is high enough that when I sit on the sofa between the screen and PJ there is no issue.
> 
> 
> Not trying to change your mind but I know how apartment life is and nothing there is permanent so I would go minimalist with what will work until you get into a more permanent location. If that is not your situation then someone will hopefully be along to assist you. Good luck.
> 
> 
> Edit, here is what I am talking about, pardon the mess because it is a real multipurpose room.
> 
> 
> Edit again, just go back 3-5 pages and you can see pics of my 8350 on top of the cabinet. Does not want to load right now.



Thanks for the reply, Mike. You're right, I'm not excited about the price tag on the AT screens. Each speaker is currently ~34" from the side walls... to move it closer affects the imaging also. That aspect aside, I would need to relocate my rack of equipment (currently between left speaker and left wall) and the sub (currently between right speaker and right wall) to physically get the speakers closer to the walls. I can't move the screen closer to the front wall without getting rid of the Panny 54" plasma I have now, which is


----------



## lunat1c

Hi all!


I just purchased an 8350 and now I need a little screen assistance. I actually already ordered a 120" Grey screen from Jamestown but I am having second thoughts as to whether I made the right decision. I have read that grey screens offer better blacks and was sold on it right away. After further reading I realized I may benefit more from the matte white 1.2 gain screen. I don't think its too late to have them switch my order from grey to white, I just need help deciding if I should or not.


My room is 18ft deep and am throwing a 120" image at 16.6ft. The walls are beige in color and carpet is plush beige as well. However, my room is completely light controlled during day and night.


I just have a feeling that maybe I would be better off with the white screen to ensure my image is not dull looking without having to waste bulb life. Black levels on the other hand are very important to me. Color and contrast pop are also important. So please help me decide!


Thank you!


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup* /forum/post/20999227
> 
> 
> I don't know about an explicit guarantee, but I specifically asked if Epson was sending me a refurb'd or new one, and the Tech said a new one. I will report my experience upon receipt of my replacement.



I just hung my replacement 8350 and I'm vastly more impressed with its performance. This appears to be a brand new unit that was sealed in a factory box. Straight away, I could tell the image was greatly improved, but I was paranoid and took a magnifying glass to the pixels. This unit appears to have the blue about half to a whole pixel off. It is almost impossible to see without being less than a foot away from my screen. The black and white lines on the menus are sharp and not smudged at all.


Thanks to Epson for standing behind their product!


----------



## bmagnuso

Can anyone help me with suggestions w/this problem? I have 75ft 1000HD monster cable running from my receiver to the projector. I get a "no signal" from the projector. I tried a 50Ft monster cable and it didn't work. I got a cheap ($20) booster that goes from the receiver to the booster to the 75ft hdmi.......still no signal. I've troubleshooted the projector and get a signal using a 3ft cable hooking up to a DVD player. Does anyone have suggestions to get around this problem? Better booster or alternative?


Thanks,


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lunat1c* /forum/post/21004218
> 
> 
> Black levels on the other hand are very important to me. Color and contrast pop are also important. So please help me decide!
> 
> 
> Thank you!



Black levels for me are an optical illusion. Take a white sheet and hang it on the wall and look at it under the light conditions that you will be viewing the PJ. Then turn on a night light or two or four in the room and look at the screen. Those are the blackest blacks you will see on a white screen. I say night lights because the PJ will produce some ambient light. Now to the illusion part, while viewing my 8350 on my 120" 1.1 matte white screen I can see the difference in black from the picture and the black border. I know I could never get it that black for obvious reasons. But, while viewing my eyes trick me that black is indeed black until I look at the border. Some PJs do this better than others. The 8350 does a good job here.


So I have good but not total light control. I also watch football with some ambient light sometimes and without a white screen I am sure the picture would suck. Caveat, I have not tried another screen, but I can say that I can be grilling out back in the daytime and watch football through the screen door and still see a decent big picture. Looking forward to some of the gray screen owner comments. White works for me.


----------



## vladd

@ Acesfullup: Would you mind posting a comparison pic? I've been questioning my projector's image ever since you posted your pics. Where yours bled red, mine bleeds blue although not as quite as bad as yours.

http://www.oshinetworks.com/Epson8350/IMAG0193.jpg 
http://www.oshinetworks.com/Epson8350/IMAG0194.jpg


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lunat1c* /forum/post/21004218
> 
> 
> 
> I just have a feeling that maybe I would be better off with the white screen to ensure my image is not dull looking without having to waste bulb life. Black levels on the other hand are very important to me. Color and contrast pop are also important. So please help me decide!
> 
> 
> Thank you!



I have an Elite grey screen with a 1.0 gain in a light controlled room against a dark plum colored wall. Like Mikes2cents, this is the only screen I've owned too, and I have not regretted my choice either. Like you, contrast is important to me, but I didn't want a dull looking picture. This is not a concern for the 8350... this projector has more than enough brightness, and it works well with the grey screen whether you have it bright on the dynamic setting, all the way down to the ECO mode.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmagnuso* /forum/post/21004539
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me with suggestions w/this problem? I have 75ft 1000HD monster cable running from my receiver to the projector. I get a "no signal" from the projector. I tried a 50Ft monster cable and it didn't work. I got a cheap ($20) booster that goes from the receiver to the booster to the 75ft hdmi.......still no signal. I've troubleshooted the projector and get a signal using a 3ft cable hooking up to a DVD player. Does anyone have suggestions to get around this problem? Better booster or alternative?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Can you use a 3 or 6' cable from the AVR just to see if you get a signal. You know what you have to do here as you have started on the right track. Perhaps the cable from your source to the AVR is bad. Keep working on it. You have to run it down. It is a process of elimination. Good luck.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmagnuso* /forum/post/21004539
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me with suggestions w/this problem? I have 75ft 1000HD monster cable running from my receiver to the projector. I get a "no signal" from the projector. I tried a 50Ft monster cable and it didn't work. I got a cheap ($20) booster that goes from the receiver to the booster to the 75ft hdmi.......still no signal. I've troubleshooted the projector and get a signal using a 3ft cable hooking up to a DVD player. Does anyone have suggestions to get around this problem? Better booster or alternative?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



A better (...not necessarily more expensive...) HDMI Cable.


I have a good connection for a 50'er HDMI v1.4 for $1.00 ft that works every time, if you can indeed make do with 50'. PM for details.

(not sure why you'd use a 75'-er unless necessary...)


BTW, if the issue is the "handshake" transfer between the Signal Source and the AVR /PJ, you'll have to find a way to jump between all three with shorter cables to determine that. But I'm guessin' it's an attenuation problem.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup* /forum/post/21004339
> 
> 
> I just hung my replacement 8350 and I'm vastly more impressed with its performance. This appears to be a brand new unit that was sealed in a factory box. Straight away, I could tell the image was greatly improved, but I was paranoid and took a magnifying glass to the pixels. This unit appears to have the blue about half to a whole pixel off. It is almost impossible to see without being less than a foot away from my screen. The black and white lines on the menus are sharp and not smudged at all.
> 
> 
> Thanks to Epson for standing behind their product!



1/2 to 1 Pixel off is considered "Spec" in the LCD Camp. Some do get perfection, while others get saddled with 2+ Pixel mis-alignment (...not acceptable...)


The Blue is the least troublesome to deal with, and the fact you needed a magnifying Glass to become aware of the issue says it all.


Step back, and enjoy the fact you did get a "New" replacement.


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/21004583
> 
> 
> @ Acesfullup: Would you mind posting a comparison pic?



No problem vladd, I will post some when I get back home. I spent most of the night flashing the bios on a new video card in a vain attempt to slow the fan.


I'm just speculating, but yours look pretty good to me and I would not have risked sending it back for that. However, I'm certainly not an expert on it because I've only seen three of them in person - I have a buddy who has an 8500 and his image looks similar to yours and mine.


Looking back, my first unit must have been damaged in shipping because there is no way it should have passed a cursory QA at the factory.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup* /forum/post/21005404
> 
> 
> I'm just speculating, but yours look pretty good to me and I would not have risked sending it back for that. However, I'm certainly not an expert on it because I've only seen three of them in person - I have a buddy who has an 8500 and his image looks similar to yours and mine.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21005213
> 
> 
> The Blue is the least troublesome to deal with



Ok, I'm happy again then.


----------



## latenight

I understand that no one knows the answer but if you didn't have a 8350 yet would you hold off and wait for the price to come down? Would you skip the 8350 and go for the 3010?


The 8350 can be had for about $1150.00 shipped without tax.


I'm replacing a PT-AX 100U which has a bad color wheel.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lunat1c* /forum/post/21004218
> 
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> 
> I just purchased an 8350 and now I need a little screen assistance. I actually already ordered a 120" Grey screen from Jamestown but I am having second thoughts as to whether I made the right decision. I have read that grey screens offer better blacks and was sold on it right away. After further reading I realized I may benefit more from the matte white 1.2 gain screen. I don't think its too late to have them switch my order from grey to white, I just need help deciding if I should or not.
> 
> 
> My room is 18ft deep and am throwing a 120" image at 16.6ft. The walls are beige in color and carpet is plush beige as well. However, my room is completely light controlled during day and night.
> 
> 
> I just have a feeling that maybe I would be better off with the white screen to ensure my image is not dull looking without having to waste bulb life. Black levels on the other hand are very important to me. Color and contrast pop are also important. So please help me decide!
> 
> 
> Thank you!



If you don't plan on watching with the lights on or with ambient lighting, I'd go with white.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...y#post20857137 


.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *latenight* /forum/post/21007102
> 
> 
> I understand that no one knows the answer but if you didn't have a 8350 yet would you hold off and wait for the price to come down? Would you skip the 8350 and go for the 3010?
> 
> 
> The 8350 can be had for about $1150.00 shipped without tax.
> 
> 
> I'm replacing a PT-AX 100U which has a bad color wheel.



I'd wait for the 8350 replacement to be announced, which should hopefully be soon.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21007211
> 
> 
> I'd wait for the 8350 replacement to be announced, which should hopefully be soon.



I believe the 8350 is going to remain in production for the foreseeable future.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/21004583
> 
> 
> @ Acesfullup: Would you mind posting a comparison pic? I've been questioning my projector's image ever since you posted your pics. Where yours bled red, mine bleeds blue although not as quite as bad as yours.
> 
> http://www.oshinetworks.com/Epson8350/IMAG0193.jpg
> http://www.oshinetworks.com/Epson8350/IMAG0194.jpg



I just checked out two new 8350s and they were very similar but not exactly the same...


Unit A - Red was off one pixel to the right

Unit B - Red was off one half pixel to the right


Unit A in some ways looked almost more in focus since Red was aligned a complete pixel off (you could see the pixel outline much clearer). This was only the case when you were up real close and staring at the pixel structure. The one half red pixel to the right guy overall looked pretty good.


Based on the images here I would guess (via my crude definitions using white letters) red is off one pixel to the right (a trend here?) and red is off a half pixel to the top.


----------



## Firebat

well... I just purchased this after a long haul with my Home 10... WOW... This forum helped me a lot in choosing and for the price... $1049, you cant not beat it...


Now to get a PS3 hooked up...


----------



## latenight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firebat* /forum/post/21010741
> 
> 
> well... I just purchased this after a long haul with my Home 10... WOW... This forum helped me a lot in choosing and for the price... $1049, you cant not beat it...
> 
> 
> Now to get a PS3 hooked up...



Where did you find $1049? The best I found was $1150


----------



## CTShooter

I sometimes use my projector away from home and run things from my laptop but cannot find the setting i need.


when I bought my home theater PC i was able to locate the scaling option to make the pc screen fill up the entire movie theater screen but when I use the laptop I cannot find a scaling option. I find the Catalyst Control but when I choose the PJ hookup it seems it only has settings for colors and to shift the screen..


anyone have any ideas where to look (windows 7)


going to be showing a movie at work on a giant screen and would like to make the picture a little bigger.


----------



## Davinleeds

Run it as extended, and options should be in CCC.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21009591
> 
> 
> Based on the images here I would guess (via my crude definitions using white letters) red is off one pixel to the right (a trend here?) and red is off a half pixel to the top.



That's about right, yes.


----------



## Firebat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *latenight* /forum/post/21011087
> 
> 
> Where did you find $1049? The best I found was $1150



Look up League Technologies... They are an Epson Dealer... Ask for Peter and tell him Eric Camper sent ya... great deal... 24 bucks for shipping, got it in 16 hours...


----------



## PRLJAMR

Guys, looking to buy the 8350 but have a question regarding cables. Currently I only have component cables running to my ceiling mount. Will the hassle of surface mounting a 30' HDMI cable be worth the trouble. I have also seen the new wireless HD kits for under 200.00. How well would one of those work. Mostly watching Blue Ray. Thanks.


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21021794
> 
> 
> Guys, looking to buy the 8350 but have a question regarding cables. Currently I only have component cables running to my ceiling mount. Will the hassle of surface mounting a 30' HDMI cable be worth the trouble. I have also seen the new wireless HD kits for under 200.00. How well would one of those work. Mostly watching Blue Ray. Thanks.



I would say yes its worth the hassle. Couldn't you just use one of your component cables to pull an hdmi cable? Not sure if that would work with your setup but worth a try. Tape an HDMI with a string on it to your component pull it through then use the string to pull back your component cable.


8350 also has a component hookup... (90% sure on that one). No experience with wireless HD kits....


----------



## latenight

Is anyone using a HDMI switch with their 8350 and if you are do you have any issues? I run all of my TV's over a 8x4 HDMI over CAT5 Gefen switch. I was ok with my old PT-AX100u so I doubt there would be an issue but you never know.


----------



## PRLJAMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leaningjowler* /forum/post/21021820
> 
> 
> I would say yes its worth the hassle. Couldn't you just use one of your component cables to pull an hdmi cable? Not sure if that would work with your setup but worth a try. Tape an HDMI with a string on it to your component pull it through then use the string to pull back your component cable.
> 
> 
> 8350 also has a component hookup... (90% sure on that one). No experience with wireless HD kits....



Thanks for the input. Good idea regarding pulling one with the other unless it is strapped down up the wall and or in ceiling, but worth a try. So you feel the picture improvement will be worth it?


----------



## lakersin2025

I experienced my first strange occurrence with my projector last night. It started to go slightly dimmer and then slightly brighter every 5 seconds or so. It seemed like the image would shake a tiny bit too like shift just a few pixels. It wasn't the source because it did this on a movie and the DVR. Could it be my 40' hdmi cable loosing signal or the iris doing something? Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## frogpond1

I joined the Epson 8350 club today







Came from having a Sanyo Z4 for 5-6 years and finally did some research. Was going to continue with a newer Sanyo but then saw this. The specs, price and user/pro reviews did me in and now can't wait for our first football game this Sunday. And my wife and I thought the Z4 was good...this blows it out of the water.


----------



## kawie01

First welcome frogpond:


Second does anyone know how to place the av calibration file on a usb? I downloaded it but comp kept asking to burn on cd. I thought that I came across a thread where someone downloaded onto a usb & then placed usb in ps3 for calibrating 8350.


Thank you for your help.


----------



## rcliff

I'm planning on picking up an 8350 this week and am trying to decide how to mount. I've seen all the posts from MississippiMan recommending the Chief RPA168 ceiling mount. Is this a custom mount and is there a specific version required for the 8350 or is there only one version? How does this compare to the chief RPAUS? I'd like something extremely secure since this will likely be directly over of very close directly over my seating position. I might just put a shelf at back of room over the couch which will be about 14' from screen. I think both options will work considering the flexibility of this projector.


----------



## frogpond1

I'm still amazed by this projector especially at this price point. Maybe the Z4 was just that old but considering that the z4 was almost 1800 and this was just over 1k it just doesn't seem right. I know there are calibration threads on here. Anybody got any tips for some good settings or point me in the direction of some?


----------



## PRLJAMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21028238
> 
> 
> I'm still amazed by this projector especially at this price point. Maybe the Z4 was just that old but considering that the z4 was almost 1800 and this was just over 1k it just doesn't seem right. I know there are calibration threads on here. Anybody got any tips for some good settings or point me in the direction of some?



Best thing to do is google "Arts 8350 calibration". Art at projector central reviews the 8350 and gives good settings, or you can buy the Disney WOW calibration disc for under 30.00.


----------



## rcliff

I'm thinking about using this glass wall mount shelf instead of a ceiling mount

http://www.omnimount.com/Product/Wall_Furniture/ECS/ 


The front of the projector will be about 14' from the screen in this scenario. If I mount it about 2 feet left of center, I assume I can use the left/right lens shift to center the image correctly on screen. Is there any significant degradation of image quality in doing this or do I really want to be dead center?


Thanks


----------



## greighn

lakersin2005,


I just reported the same effect a few posts ago. I was told it is a fucntion of the bulb but can be fixed by running the PJ on high for a few hours, assuming you are keeping it in econ right now. I have done this and my flicker has gone away.


-Gary.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21021794
> 
> 
> Guys, looking to buy the 8350 but have a question regarding cables. Currently I only have component cables running to my ceiling mount. Will the hassle of surface mounting a 30' HDMI cable be worth the trouble. I have also seen the new wireless HD kits for under 200.00. How well would one of those work. Mostly watching Blue Ray. Thanks.



Most definitely. You don't need to spend that much. For around $50 there's quality with Wirelogic. Im running 35ft Wireworld ultraviolet HDMI with my epson 1080ub and my friend with the 8350 runs 40ft with Wirelogic HDMI. They're legit with a parent company Audioquest look it up. You can find some at most costco just not sure if they have your length. Amazon has some too. Good luck, and for sure with blu ray always quality HDMI.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21028238
> 
> 
> I'm still amazed by this projector especially at this price point. Maybe the Z4 was just that old but considering that the z4 was almost 1800 and this was just over 1k it just doesn't seem right. I know there are calibration threads on here. Anybody got any tips for some good settings or point me in the direction of some?



Trust me you're not alone and it's not your imagination. I spent couple days over the weekend with a friend's 8350 and could not get over how amazing this PJ is at under 2K. I just can't imagine how much better are the ones over 3k, the 8350 has so much detail and brightness with remarkable film like quality that rivals my LG 8500 LED with 9 mil C/R.


Since you got it for dirt cheap I reckon these days for that 8350, you can easily justify getting a good ISF from a reputable tech like kevin miller in your area for prob $250 if you do a little haggling. I got my 1080UB done from Avical and it was so worth it. Just think of it this way, you will be paying 1400 for the 8350 rather than spending the extra 300 for the ISF...don't you think that's reasonable from all the $$ you saved to begin with?


----------



## lakersin2025




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> lakersin2005,
> 
> 
> I just reported the same effect a few posts ago. I was told it is a fucntion of the bulb but can be fixed by running the PJ on high for a few hours, assuming you are keeping it in econ right now. I have done this and my flicker has gone away.
> 
> 
> -Gary.



Thanks for the info. I'll give that a try. And yes I do always have it in Eco mode.


----------



## latenight

Any advice on ceiling or wall mounting. My concern about putting a shelf in the back of my room is my throw would be over 22 feet, I understand ideal would be 12-14. If I hang from my ceiling my ceilings are 11 feet high and I can't seem to find a ceiling mount that will extend 4+ feet (have to bring it down below my ceiling fan which is 3.5 feet from the ceiling.


Any advice?


----------



## browntrash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21030334
> 
> 
> Trust me you're not alone and it's not your imagination. I spent couple days over the weekend with a friend's 8350 and could not get over how amazing this PJ is at under 2K. I just can't imagine how much better are the ones over 3k, the 8350 has so much detail and brightness with remarkable film like quality that rivals my LG 8500 LED with 9 mil C/R.
> 
> 
> Since you got it for dirt cheap I reckon these days for that 8350, you can easily justify getting a good ISF from a reputable tech like kevin miller in your area for prob $250 if you do a little haggling. I got my 1080UB done from Avical and it was so worth it. Just think of it this way, you will be paying 1400 for the 8350 rather than spending the extra 300 for the ISF...don't you think that's reasonable from all the $$ you saved to begin with?


 ISF Calibration for $270 worth it vs. doing Art's 8350 Calibration?


----------



## Acesfullup

I just installed a new HD5570 into my HTPC and I'm trying to get 23.976 to work for the first time. I have set 23 inside of ATI's CCC and on Windows 7 display properties. However, the "Info" menu item of the 8350 reports 23.900.


Does anyone know if the 8350 actually displays 23.976 as 23.900? Or will 23.976 actually display as 23.976 on the 8350 info section if it is correct?


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21028238
> 
> 
> I'm still amazed by this projector especially at this price point. Maybe the Z4 was just that old but considering that the z4 was almost 1800 and this was just over 1k it just doesn't seem right. I know there are calibration threads on here. Anybody got any tips for some good settings or point me in the direction of some?



Here are my settings:


I start with Cinema, then:


Brightness: -11

Contrast: +11

Color Sat: 0

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 0


Epson Super White: Off

HDMI Range: Expanded

Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)

ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)

Auto Iris: High Speed (although I have backed away from this due to noise during quiet scenes)


Don't forget to save this setting for later use, so you can then compare it to other settings you set up, and to the original factor pre-sets. Helps to make sure you like it better than the original settings, in my opinion. This PJ lets you save several sets of settings for later reference.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/21034945
> 
> 
> HDMI Range: Expanded



I read that Expanded raises the black level...

_With the HDMI Video Range control set to Normal, the projector cannot display "below-black"that is, light levels below what is defined as black for video images. Setting this control to Expanded does display below-black, but it elevates the black level substantially.
_
http://www.hometheater.com/content/e...ojector-page-2 


Have you not seen such? Is the setting for PC or Video levels?


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browntrash* /forum/post/21034521
> 
> ISF Calibration for $270 worth it vs. doing Art's 8350 Calibration?



Art states right away that his calibrations does not include grey scale 6500K which to me is the meat n potatoes of an ISF cal and why I pay up to $400 in the past for it..among other things that Art settings cannot do.


Like I sd, don't think of it as 270 or 350...think of it as spending 1500 for the 8350 which is still a screaming bargain. The ISF just takes it to another level and is just gravy on top of gravy. You really have nothing to lose at this price point for the performance of the 8350. Folks who have spent 3k for 1080UB in the past didn't have any remorse at that price without ISF. Now my friend's 8350 was only 1100 and is significantly better than my 1080UB.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *latenight* /forum/post/21034014
> 
> 
> Any advice on ceiling or wall mounting. My concern about putting a shelf in the back of my room is my throw would be over 22 feet, I understand ideal would be 12-14. If I hang from my ceiling my ceilings are 11 feet high and I can't seem to find a ceiling mount that will extend 4+ feet (have to bring it down below my ceiling fan which is 3.5 feet from the ceiling.
> 
> 
> Any advice?



I'll be interested to hear any suggestions because I'm in the same boat. Sounds like we both have our main home theater in the "Great Room" or Family Room with the open-design.


Right now I have it at the back of the room on a counter (18 ft from screen/wall). Because of where the Onkyo AVR is (and going up and down walls) I ended up using a 45 ft (22 AWG) HDMI cable ... and it works fine.


If I was to hang it, it would be pretty low ... like at 7ft. from the floor I think.


The wife says the ceiling fan must stay (and she has a point ... it's the only light in the room). We might get a new fan with a lower profile light kit. When I install it, I might "accidently" shorted the extension hanging bar a bit. That all might gain me a foot or so of vertical height. The fan is off-center from the middle of the screen, so that helps a bit.


Not sure if it's relevant, but I also still have my fairly new 46" 1080p plasma in this room that we use for casual TV watching. It's in a large built-in bookshelf cubby off to the side of the fireplace and only a TV would go there anyway. It's on a splitter/switch. Everything plays on either screen (or both).


Maybe post some pics? I know there are dedicated forum sections for home theater build-outs. I'm not sure if they are only for dedicated rooms or not, but the guys might not mind if we post over there. I don't think the projector make/model matters as much as creative multi-function room design.


My install has always been pretty "clean". When I installed the projector, I made it a point to keep it that way. Helps with the WAF. She is already saying that "if we ever move" we should get a house with a dedicated theater room.


----------



## zbone

Can someone of the lucky 8350 owners be so kind and measure input lag in what presumable can be called "game mode" or point me to where I can find this info?

Thanks


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zbone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone of the lucky 8350 owners be so kind and measure input lag in what presumable can be called "game mode" or point me to where I can find this info?
> 
> Thanks



Pointing you to this thread.... No lag.


----------



## elmalloc

just FYI there are newer Epsons around the corner *(2 weeks).* I would only get an 8350 for 1-1.1K in price. The new Epsons are 1.5-1.6K, 3D, wireless HDMI, etc. Panasonic has an AR-100 with 2800 lumens (no 3D) coming out very soon also. Be careful in the next month or so.


----------



## zbone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fitbrit* /forum/post/21036653
> 
> 
> Pointing you to this thread.... No lag.



Apparently, it got lost somewhere on 170 pages









How was it measured?


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21036668
> 
> 
> Be careful in the next month or so.



Yep - be careful of the lens shift, etc on the newer models.


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zbone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently, it got lost somewhere on 170 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How was it measured?



Using PS3, it was more that everyone seemed very satisfied with the gaming on this, event without gaming mode.


----------



## elmalloc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21036961
> 
> 
> Yep - be careful of the lens shift, etc on the newer models.



Snide remark earns another snide remark. Even if you still want the 8350, not very smart to buy it right now when the price will probably go down in only a couple weeks. Hope you get your hundred to two hundred buck use out of it in the next couple weeks...why do you think they're getting sold at less than only a month ago?


I'm sure the new Epsons lense shift will be fine, it's the competition (Optoma HD33) you have to worry about.


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21037148
> 
> 
> I'm sure the new Epsons lense shift will be fine



Fine as in non-existent? There is no lens shift on the new Espon 3010. You have to to go up to the 5010 to get it. A deal breaker for me and the reason I just ordered an 8350


----------



## ClemsonKev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21037358
> 
> 
> Fine as in non-existent? There is no lens shift on the new Espon 3010. You have to to go up to the 5010 to get it. A deal breaker for me and the reason I just ordered an 8350



I did the same a month ago and haven't looked back. 8350 for $1057 and a 106" FAVI wide screen for $115....... Sept. football and 1080p MKV movies were incredible. I'll worry about 3D when I can get the 5010 for $1000, glasses for $20/ea and FIOS has a dozen+ 3D channels.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21037358
> 
> 
> Fine as in non-existent? There is no lens shift on the new Espon 3010.



Don't forget the published contrast ratio is 20% less. But we won't let facts get in the way...


----------



## elmalloc

well maybe it's good for your usage, I think most are getting intno the 3D game nowadays and already have a 2D projector?


you can decide, the 8350 is staying around, the 3010 will have a higher MSRP - does that not answer which PJ is better. it's the same company...HOW DO YOU LIKE THEM APPLES!!!


yes CR is lower and you can place your 8350 so that's a big deal.


you're also losing lumens in the older model...


I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just saying if you can't wait a month - that's your decision. There's always something around the corner, but their own model upgrade is coming out within a month. I may end up with an 8350 also but I'm waiting to see how the rest of the Pjs shake out. It's very rare an older model PJ is better than a newer model other than early adopter bugs.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21036961
> 
> 
> Yep - be careful of the lens shift, etc on the newer models.



Can't be any worse than what Epson currently has in place.

Hopefully they fix it with a Lens Shift lock.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049 


.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21038370
> 
> 
> Can't be any worse than what Epson currently has in place.
> 
> Hopefully they fix it with a Lens Shift lock.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049



Luckily, I'm not into Heavy Metal.







Regarding improvements typically things get worse over time (build quality) however I think JVC shored up their lens shift a while back (I know one unit I used felt like broken bones). I was cleaning a draw out today and happened upon the literature for my first projector... it was a whopping 32.12 lbs... 19.9"x10.4"x15.5" and yes it was digital... circa 2002. Even had BNC connectors... I loved those!


----------



## elmalloc

you can't possibly care just about build quality when there are several technological enhancements that clearly trump, not a good argument. too many people worry about "insurance" rather than not!


the epson 8350 is a great PJ, but I'm sure it's no 3010.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21037858
> 
> 
> It's very rare an older model PJ is better than a newer model other than early adopter bugs.



I generally agree with this. However I feel at the same time projectors are beginning to take on the AV receiver mentality to a large degree. They can't make them sound any better or build them as nicely as before so the add features and drop the price a little. Although some of the Denon/Marantz stuff has actually gone up within the model year.


I find it amusing they are publishing lower contrast ratios since they have no real value anyway as they are typically pulled out of some marketing guy's...







3D wise if one is interested one isn't interested in the 8350 to start with and on the surface it appears to have several advantages.


Price wise I have owned numerous projectors over the years and I won't purchase one that I can't return without taking a hit. Panel alignment, color uniformity and such are much more important than waiting until a few dealers are having fire sales.


----------



## elmalloc

my guess CR is lower is because lumens are up? it's hard to be picky at 1.5K and under I guess


----------



## fraisa

The Epson 8350 is not BEING REPLACED....









THis Model is Staying in the Line UP>>>>


The Epson 3010 will be a step up model from the 8350.....


Fraisa

Rock On


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21038879
> 
> 
> you can't possibly care just about build quality when there are several technological enhancements that clearly trump, not a good argument.



What are these hailed advancements?
3D (couldn't care less)
Brighter (I use eco mode and generally try to dim the image)
Wireless HD (cost even more and useless for most)
Speakers (I won't even comment)
480Hz (perhaps of some value)
Spllt Screen (never use on my TVs)
Others I left out?

Let's see...
More expensive
Less contrast
No lens shift

I'd say if you want 3D it's a slam dunk if not...


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21038987
> 
> 
> What are these hailed advancements?
> 3D (couldn't care less)
> Brighter (I use eco mode and generally try to dim the image)
> Wireless HD (cost even more and useless for most)
> Speakers (I won't even comment)
> 480Hz (perhaps of some value)
> Spllt Screen (never use on my TVs)
> Others I left out?
> 
> Let's see...
> More expensive
> Less contrast
> No lens shift
> 
> I'd say if you want 3D it's a slam dunk if not...




the 8350 is staying so if anyone doesnt want to get the

3010 they will still be able to buy the 8350


The thing that most people where looking forward to Wont Happen

Thats Reduced end yr $ on the 8350 since it is staying and not being replaced


----------



## Mikes2cents

Wow, what is going on here in this thread? Some time ago I decided there probably was not going to be a 1080P 3D PJ in my price range this year. I could find no indicators of the HD33/3300 or 3010. So I decided to get a 1080P 2d unit and get the GT750 just for 3d and outdoor use since that was going to be cheaper than the then offering of 1080P units at the time.


Well I got the 8350 and could not be happier with it. Time approached for the GT750 release and Optoma dropped the HD33/3300 bomb on me. Then Epson comes along, well trying anyway, with the 3010. $1,500 units. Well I almost ebayed my 8350 but could not bring myself to do it. It is a great PJ and football is awesome on the 120" screen.


So I agree with what both sides of this argument are saying, nothing wrong with waiting to see what the new units will do if you are considering 3d. Well we know what the Optoma will do because it is doing it just fine. As for Epson, well my experience watching these things indicates that either there is a manufacturing delay, (less likely due to lack of review prototype availability) or there is a technical issue. I lean towards issue because Epson's warranty is too good to release problem units. Of course I am just guessing here but time is money and Optoma is selling the direct competitor. Every day that goes buy is a loss of sales potential.


Now as for the 8350, I am not surprised that it will remain. It is their top 1080 seller and quite probably the top 1080p seller in the US. There is a good reason for that. Contrast ratio may be dynamic, theoretical, smoke and mirrors, inflated, whatever, but one thing remains and that is manufacturers use their numbers to identify a capability the PJ has in their lineup. The 8350 is rated 20% higher than the 3010 and that is that. We did not make that up, it has been posted on their site for a while now and has not changed. Yes I expect the 3010 to bring good value for a 1080p 3d PJ if they ever release it. Right now the 8350 is also a great value and makes a stunning picture for about $1.1k. If the 3010 had kept the lens shift and added a hundred or two to the price it would probably have been a no brainer.


As was previously posted, none of these professional review sites are going to condemn a PJ for fear of never getting another unit. So head to head comparisons will be watered down. This one does better at this but that one blah blah. I have DLP and know it does 3d right. I also read glowing reviews of the Panny using the same panels but somehow remain skeptical.


So if my post answered nobody's question about the 8350 or the 3010 it is for good reason. Their is no easy answer. There is no right or wrong answer. It is a matter of preference. Someone posting in the 8350 thread to wait might sound antagonistic to some of the owners here, but for me it has merit if you are looking for a 3d unit. Of course if you are looking for a 3d unit you don't need to look in the 8350 thread, and probably ought not post the obvious in a 2d PJ thread. Now if the 3010 is as good as the 8350 in 2d then let it stand by itself in it's own thread which is full of speculation. I got tired of waiting and am watching football with a beautiful picture. I bet I would spend about 2% of my viewing on 3d material. There is always going to be the next new thing but it is incredibly hard to top the value and PQ of the 8350.


----------



## elmalloc

there really isn't much to talk about when we're talking about a PJ that's only 1K. it will always be impressive for the price.


wireless HD is most definitely not useless for most, I have no idea what you're talking about there. You try routing a 75 ft HDMI cable down a NPT in a vaulted room. Now it's plug and play.


Don't embrace new technology if you don't want to.....not our problem.


I also bet in a blind test you can't see the CR difference.


Finally, this won't hold true for PJs, but you konw the EPA changes rules all the time and that's why one year to the next - a car has dropped significantly in MPG.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21040527
> 
> 
> there really isn't much to talk about when we're talking about a PJ that's only 1K. it will always be impressive for the price.
> 
> 
> wireless HD is most definitely not useless for most, I have no idea what you're talking about there. You try routing a 75 ft HDMI cable down a NPT in a vaulted room. Now it's plug and play.
> 
> 
> Don't embrace new technology if you don't want to.....not our problem.
> 
> 
> I also bet in a blind test you can't see the CR difference.
> 
> 
> Finally, this won't hold true for PJs, but you konw the EPA changes rules all the time and that's why one year to the next - a car has dropped significantly in MPG.



Amen, +1 here. I think ppl make such a big deal over CR at this point in time it's borderline nonsense...esp when you read ppl using bed sheets or the wall for the screen and worry about deep blacks or PQ it's quite funny.


And wireless for PJ is a milestone and should be embraced. I've already went through the trouble and money of laying down the HDMI already so I don't need it but for many going in for the 1st time this is a game changer and makes it so much more easier not to mention $$ saved to hire an installer or electrician.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21040856
> 
> 
> Amen, +1 here. I think ppl make such a big deal over CR at this point in time it's borderline nonsense...esp when you read ppl using bed sheets or the wall for the screen and worry about deep blacks or PQ it's quite funny.
> 
> 
> And wireless for PJ is a milestone and should be embraced. I've already went through the trouble and money of laying down the HDMI already so I don't need it but for many going in for the 1st time this is a game changer and makes it so much more easier not to mention $$ saved to hire an installer or electrician.



You know you can increase the CR by over 300% by choosing

a better screen....

If i was to gauge the 8350 CR on my BLack Diamond Screen

this is what the number would be

50,000 x 3= 150,000


A 8350 on a black diamond is Killer


Fraisa

Rock On


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/21041000
> 
> 
> You know you can increase the CR by over 300% by choosing
> 
> a better screen....
> 
> If i was to gauge the 8350 CR on my BLack Diamond Screen
> 
> this is what the number would be
> 
> 50,000 x 3= 150,000
> 
> 
> A 8350 on a black diamond is Killer
> 
> 
> Fraisa
> 
> Rock On



Ow.....,


That's a little better than what was posted on the Thread linked below but that statement alluding to "increasing contrast" is still is making my head hurt.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21041151


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21041196
> 
> 
> Ow.....,
> 
> 
> That's a little better than what was posted on the Thread linked below but that statement alluding to "increasing contrast" is still is making my head hurt.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21041151



Hey Late night watching baseball and too much coffee he he


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21040527
> 
> 
> wireless HD is most definitely not useless for most, I have no idea what you're talking about there. You try routing a 75 ft HDMI cable down a NPT in a vaulted room.



What existing equipment do you have that supports it? If you kept up with new technology you'd know that it has been available as a standalone product for quite a while now. And it doesn't have unlimited range.



> Quote:
> Don't embrace new technology if you don't want to.....not our problem.



I'm embracing the advanced features the 3100 is lacking. On paper an inferior image and lack of installation options among others.



> Quote:
> I also bet in a blind test you can't see the CR difference.



Read virtually any professional review and their contrast ratio dictates where they end up being ranked.

_Black level performance is very good for the price point, making for really good movie viewing, even if more expensive projectors will look better on those really dark scenes. On the average and bright images, however, the Epson really does look extremely impressive.
_
http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...50/summary.php 


Low black levels are (virtually) created by increasing the contrast ratio and the 8350's are bad enough to start with... 20% less is into yesterday's technology.


----------



## elmalloc

i keep up with new technology, just didn't want to buy gefens solution that was over $650...


i'm done with this discussion, you can live in the past with older models - your choice, your prerogative, nobody will mind. the model will still exist but there will be no further updates to it.


if you're so worried about CR you're not paying for a 1K PJ, sorry. can't have your cake and eat it too at that price.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21041448
> 
> 
> i keep up with new technology, just didn't want to buy gefens solution that was over $650...
> 
> 
> i'm done with this discussion, you can live in the past with older models - your choice, your prerogative, nobody will mind. the model will still exist but there will be no further updates to it.
> 
> 
> if you're so worried about CR you're not paying for a 1K PJ, sorry. can't have your cake and eat it too at that price.



Agree with you 300%

is that 300x1 = 300,000 ....lol


seriously i really like what these projectors are going to offer

and if someone wants to stay with last yrs model they can

but for me its New New New


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fraisa* /forum/post/21041000
> 
> 
> You know you can increase the CR by over 300% by choosing
> 
> a better screen....
> 
> If i was to gauge the 8350 CR on my BLack Diamond Screen
> 
> this is what the number would be
> 
> 50,000 x 3= 150,000
> 
> 
> A 8350 on a black diamond is Killer
> 
> 
> Fraisa
> 
> Rock On



Well that's what I was afraid of, anything to enhance or improve Im there whether it be hdmi cables, ISF cal, etc. Let me ask you an honest question: what do you think makes a bigger improvement? a good ISF calibration or an entry SI fixed screen? right now I just have an Elite electrical from amazon for around $200. It's just a entry 1.1 white gain so Im thinking with my next epson, I could forgo the ISF for a better screen.


----------



## fraisa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21044106
> 
> 
> Well that's what I was afraid of, anything to enhance or improve Im there whether it be hdmi cables, ISF cal, etc. Let me ask you an honest question: what do you think makes a bigger improvement? a good ISF calibration or an entry SI fixed screen? right now I just have an Elite electrical from amazon for around $200. It's just a entry 1.1 white gain so Im thinking with my next epson, I could forgo the ISF for a better screen.



All the Way Good Entry SI fixed screen they have a fabric that i Really Really Like

Its called Lunar .85 Gain

Its a Grey screen and is Good In some ambient light , Awesome in reduced light


I always tell people to get a better screen , it will always pay off

You can always get a ASF Disc for 40$ and get close to tweeking your settings....


----------



## domingos1965

would u buy the 8350 or the 8700 for a non dedicated ,some ambiente light HT room?

why?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/21044335
> 
> 
> would u buy the 8350 or the 8700 for a non dedicated ,some ambiente light HT room?
> 
> why?



I bought the 8350 for a room like that.


Why:

It's bright

Nice lens (flexible placement)

Great picture quality and 1080p

Got good reviews

Price


----------



## rcliff

Ok, I get it. I've read most of the post about the ceiling mounts and I get the reasons not to skimp. Sounds like the Chief RPA168 is the way to go but I'd prefer white. Ceiling is white and PJ is white so black is not ideal. What about the chief RPAUW? Same as RPA168 but universal mount instead of dedicated plate? Also, thinking about a Peerless PRG-UNV-W. Thoughts?


EDIT: I ordered a RPA168. No doubt simplier on the install than messing with the universal arms and I doubt the black mount will be too visible anyway hidden behind that huge projector.


----------



## anthonysager

I just upgraded from an Optoma HD20 (the woot special @649) to an 8350. Had it only 6 months and loved it but wanted the flexibilty with placement since my media room has sharp slope ceilings.


I didn't expect such a dramatic increase in picture quality. Just out of the box on Natural the colors pop and the blacks are blacker. Simply stunning.


I have an X-Rite Colorimeter being shipped to me to fine tune the picture but I have to say out of the box it is very impressive.


Any tips?


PS - Watch Amazon the price fluxuates throughout the day. I have been watching it and got it for $1089 free shipping from amazon.


----------



## rcliff

Ok, so I bought the Chief RPA168 and after reading the manual I'm pretty confused about how to attach to the ceiling. It looks like it is not intended to be attached to a single joist??? Surely a couple of lag bolts centered in a joist should be more than sufficient to hold the mount and 16lb projector but it appears that the screw holes on the RPA are not designed for this. Unless they expect you'll add framing between the joists to accommodate the mount? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Photos would be great if anyone has done this.


Thanks,

Cliff


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21049153
> 
> 
> Ok, so I bought the Chief RPA168 and after reading the manual I'm pretty confused about how to attach to the ceiling. It looks like it is not intended to be attached to a single joist??? Surely a couple of lag bolts centered in a joist should be more than sufficient to hold the mount and 16lb projector but it appears that the screw holes on the RPA are not designed for this. Unless they expect you'll add framing between the joists to accommodate the mount? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Photos would be great if anyone has done this.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Cliff



Surely, you also got the ceiling mounting plate and column? I'll assume you did.


I've never used this one, but just looking at the generic ceiling plate ... looks like they want 4 lags into joists. That will make it nice and secure and vibration free (hopefully). The pole has to end up an inch or so away from joists, so you can just go through sheetrock for the main hole. You would likely have to add a 2x4 in the ceiling.


If the pipe column is long enough, I think you can also mount the ceiling plate to wood up in the attic. It would be "hidden" and you would just have 1" hole in the ceiling sheetrock for the pipe to come down.


----------



## rcliff

No pipe extension. I intended to flush mount.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21049329
> 
> 
> No pipe extension. I intended to flush mount.



Drop by:

https://mountbuilder.chiefmfg.com/mb.aspx 


That mount works with various ceiling plates, and a column of correct size.


I've seen inexpensive one-piece flush-mount projector mounts before ... the RPA168 is something a little different.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21049329
> 
> 
> No pipe extension. I intended to flush mount.



Although the 168 can be attached directly to the Ceiling, few would do so because:


a. There would be virtually no clearance to reach the adjustment Screws.


b. The extreme proximity to the ceiling would allow the PJ to rest immersed withing the blanket of warmer air that exists against the ceiling.


Usually, a Round Ceiling Plate is used such as the Peerless ACC570 :

(...found for under $20.00 http://www.mountsandmore.com/asp/sho...id_1580xbb9510 











You'll note that there are two aligned Holes at either side of the edges of the Peerless Plate. These are positioned over a Stud and the two Lag Bolts used are more than sufficient to hold any PJ you'd consider.


The bridge is made between the Peerless and the Chief using a 2" long x 1.5" dia. threaded Steel "Pipe Nipple":











Together, those pieces add an additional 1.25" to the RPA168's 2.5" height, making the entire assembly have a space between the ceiling of only 3.75".


That's a lot closer than you think.











The PJ would still rest so close to the ceiling that it would almost be impossible to see past the Pj and see any of the mount assembly. The Peerless can be painted the same color as the ceiling as well.


Even with the additional space, you'll find it very difficult to reach in between the Ceiling and the PJ to tighten the Thumb Screws down on the RPA 160 PJ interface Plate.


But say you still want it closer? Simply take a piece of 6" x 6" x 3/4" Plywood, attach the RPA mount (the part that is shown in the Diagram) centered on the Plywood Block. Then run two 3" Coarse Threaded Screws through two pre-drilled holes in the Plywood and into the Studs lying behind the Drywall.


Net result. A 3.25" space


That's how you'd do it, but now I'd say it will be next to impossible to squeeze your hand in there at all.


Face it...in the world of what is known as "Flush mounting", achieving a space of only 3.5" between the ceiling and PJ is closer than anything else out there. The last mentioned alternative being 3.25" is closer, but impractical, and should you try mounting the RPA direct to the ceiling, you'd only have 2.5" remaining space, and that IS impossible to deal with.


Bud...the 3.5" space....that's as "flush" as you want to be, and by any measure "flusher" than any other mount you'll find.


If you want a truly clean look, and have any access to the area behind the ceiling, I can show you how to easily achieve the 3" space by having a 1.5" Dia. pipe nipple come sown through a clean, 1.5" Hole in the ceiling and thread directly into the RPA. Then your Power and HDMI can aso pass down through that pipe, exit from between the RPA PJ Plate than the RPA Mount toward the rear of the PJ, and make their connections.


This next Picture shows a longer drop, and it's one made of Sched. 40 PVC. But it can just as well be any length of Steel pipe from 4" up to do the job.











Rear view.


(just imaging the absence of the PVC Fittings...)











I like to use PVC because I can cut it exactly to length on-site. with steel you must deal with 2" to 4" to 6" to 8" on up to a max of 12" length in increments when using pre-cut - Pre-threaded "Nipples" that can be had at Home Depot or any Hardware store.


Just realize that you cannot work with just 2.5" space between the ceiling and the PJ. You"ll need that extra 1" and you should settle for having at least 4" total.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21040217
> 
> 
> 
> So I agree with what both sides of this argument are saying, nothing wrong with waiting to see what the new units will do if you are considering 3d.
> 
> 
> Now as for the 8350, I am not surprised that it will remain. It is their top 1080 seller and quite probably the top 1080p seller in the US. There is a good reason for that. Contrast ratio may be dynamic, theoretical, smoke and mirrors, inflated, whatever, but one thing remains and that is manufacturers use their numbers to identify a capability the PJ has in their lineup. The 8350 is rated 20% higher than the 3010 and that is that. We did not make that up, it has been posted on their site for a while now and has not changed. Yes I expect the 3010 to bring good value for a 1080p 3d PJ if they ever release it. Right now the 8350 is also a great value and makes a stunning picture for about $1.1k. If the 3010 had kept the lens shift and added a hundred or two to the price it would probably have been a no brainer.



Amen to that. The absence of the lens shift is a glaring miscalculation, but one that was specifically made to eliminate the decision making between the 3010 and the 8350.


You need lens shift on the Cheap w/1080p res.and 2000 lumens? Epson 8350


You need spectacular Contrast AND lens shift in a PJ that shows just as bright as the 8350 w/only 1600 lumens? Epson 8700


You need even more brightness but no 3D and can mount the PJ precisely where it needs to be? Epson 3010

(I can assure everyone the images quality is identical to the 8350 excepting the 480 hz panels make image motion blur history. A worthy feature to be sure...)


You need excellent 3D performance without lens shift?


NOW you have a decision to make, and bluntly stated, I'm virtually positive the DLPs will win that battle.





> Quote:
> So if my post answered nobody's question about the 8350 or the 3010 it is for good reason. Their is no easy answer. There is no right or wrong answer. It is a matter of preference.



Actually, to me it's terribly "cut & dried". Your own points below illustrate that point very well. It's more a case where many cannot see the answer right in front of them due to fear of making a decision...not that a decision cannot be determined.



> Quote:
> Someone posting in the 8350 thread to wait might sound antagonistic to some of the owners here, but for me it has merit if you are looking for a 3d unit. Of course if you are looking for a 3d unit you don't need to look in the 8350 thread, and probably ought not post the obvious in a 2d PJ thread.



Another resounding "Amen" with a "Hallelujah" thrown in. There is a decided difference between asking as to if the wait is worth it, and telling people outright they "should' wait.


As for DLP owners posting hateful comments alluding to the inadequacies of the 8350......well, take all that to their respective DLP PJ threads and leave the LCD camp alone with their crying towels. (...which are seldom very damp, BTW...)



> Quote:
> Now if the 3010 is as good as the 8350 in 2d then let it stand by itself in it's own thread which is full of speculation.



Ouch. It's "as good as" in most respects and "better than" in the Lumen and 3D areas. I've seen it. I'll vouch for those improvements. The higher lumens also make the use of a High contrast screen not only possible, but highly desirable, because such a screen increases the perceived contrast of the 3010 (...as well as the 8350...) But there is that lack of lens shift and the higher price point. One cannot escape those obvious facts. When the 8350 falls to $999.00 or less soon, the gap difference will become all the more wider, and those who do not see 3D as being relevant in their decision making process will jump on the 8350 like a Big dog on a meaty bone.



> Quote:
> I got tired of waiting and am watching football with a beautiful picture. I bet I would spend about 2% of my viewing on 3d material. There is always going to be the next new thing but it is incredibly hard to top the value and PQ of the 8350.



In a Nutshell.....the last comment is all about satisfaction. A bird in the hand is priceless compared to indecision and watching a puny 60"er image.


If ya gotta have Lens Shift, higher lumens, AND 480 hz 3D....get a 5010 and get glad. Otherwise, post on this thread for some value-added advice.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21044983
> 
> 
> Ok, I get it. I've read most of the post about the ceiling mounts and I get the reasons not to skimp. Sounds like the Chief RPA168 is the way to go but I'd prefer white. Ceiling is white and PJ is white so black is not ideal. What about the chief RPAUW? Same as RPA168 but universal mount instead of dedicated plate? Also, thinking about a Peerless PRG-UNV-W. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> EDIT: I ordered a RPA168. No doubt simplier on the install than messing with the universal arms and I doubt the black mount will be too visible anyway hidden behind that huge projector.




Uhhhh....how about spray painting it white?










Who'd a thunk it possible?


----------



## ClemsonKev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthonysager* /forum/post/21046161
> 
> 
> I just upgraded from an Optoma HD20 (the woot special @649) to an 8350. Had it only 6 months and loved it but wanted the flexibilty with placement since my media room has sharp slope ceilings.
> 
> 
> I didn't expect such a dramatic increase in picture quality. Just out of the box on Natural the colors pop and the blacks are blacker. Simply stunning.



Good to know! I was wondering if I could have saved money by getting the Optoma (and dealt w/ no lens shift for $350 less). But I got the 8350 for $1057 (Elec. Expo via Amazon) and love the picture and lens shifting.....


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21049511
> 
> 
> Although the 168 can be attached directly to the Ceiling, few would do so because:
> 
> 
> a. There would be virtually no clearance to reach the adjustment Screws.
> 
> 
> b. The extreme proximity to the ceiling would allow the PJ to rest immersed withing the blanket of warmer air that exists against the ceiling.



Thanks MM. Excellent points and thanks for the link to the peerless plate and your examples. I didn't fully consider how close this would actually be and figured the RPA168 had everything I would need to mount to ceiling. I think I will either pick up the peerless plate you mentioned above OR the chief CMA101 pictured below which states it can be mounted using two opposing holes into a joist. Have you used that one? Regarding your PVC solution, it looks clean but I think running the power cord that way might be a code violation? Thank again for your help.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21050286
> 
> 
> Thanks MM. Excellent points and thanks for the link to the peerless plate and your examples. I didn't fully consider how close this would actually be and figured the RPA168 had everything I would need to mount to ceiling. I think I will either pick up the peerless plate you mentioned above OR the chief CMA101 pictured below which states it can be mounted using two opposing holes into a joist. Have you used that one? Regarding your PVC solution, it looks clean but I think running the power cord that way might be a code violation? Thank again for your help.



Yes, I have used that one for exposed and non-exposed installations. But I'll relate this...it's no where nearly as sturdy a ceiling plate as the AC550, and it looks a bit too "utilitarian" for me, being a "X" and all. When I have used it, mostly iit's a case where i screw it into a wood Block with a 2" hole in it that stretches across attic joists, and I simply screw the Pipe into it and pass the other end of the Pipe through a hole on the ceiling. . The increased diameter of the 550 will, when it compresses against the Drywall ceiling, provide immeasurably more lateral bracing. And of course, it's two holes also can be aligned to be over the same stud.


As for the Power, if an accessible Code-approved single gang box is able to be hung up on a ceiling joist in the attic above the PJ location, plugging in the PJ's provided 110 AC cord and running it down through the Pipe will pass muster in all 50 States. iI's the use of "Extension Cords" routed from a location within the living area that is a decided No-No.


Do you have Attic access? If so, I have some easy solutions to provide that can deal with any amount of available space you can crawl into.


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21050372
> 
> 
> Yes, I have used that one for exposed and non-exposed installations. But I'll relate this...it's no where nearly as sturdy a ceiling plate as the AC550, and it looks a bit too "utilitarian" for me, being a "X" and all. When I have used it, mostly iit's a case where i screw it into a wood Block with a 2" hole in it that stretches across attic joists, and I simply screw the Pipe into it and pass the other end of the Pipe through a hole on the ceiling. . The increased diameter of the 550 will, when it compresses against the Drywall ceiling, provide immeasurably more lateral bracing. And of course, it's two holes also can be aligned to be over the same stud.
> 
> 
> As for the Power, if an accessible Code-approved single gang box is able to be hung up on a ceiling joist in the attic above the PJ location, plugging in the PJ's provided 110 AC cord and running it down through the Pipe will pass muster in all 50 States. iI's the use of "Extension Cords" routed from a location within the living area that is a decided No-No.
> 
> 
> Do you have Attic access? If so, I have some easy solutions to provide that can deal with any amount of available space you can crawl into.



MM, thanks for your thoughts on the CMA101 vs the Peerless plate. Seems clear which way to go. Much appreciated.


I do have attic access but unfortunately there is a lot of fixed ducting right where the PJ needs to go (murphy law) so it's pretty tough to do much there. Regarding the power, originally I was thinking I could just use a pass through cable plate like the pic below since I have a nearby power outlet in the attic but I assumed this was a code violation to run the power cord through it. Would this be code compliant after all?


----------



## elmalloc

just get some romex cable and one of those power plates from monoprice. the plates has 1 slot (one for video, outlet for POWAH!!)


(black cable is an inwall HDMI coming from another room, ran it through basement soffits):










here you simply utilize romex and twist cap it to the other plate, may need to fish it through the wall:


----------



## Lavalamps

Just purchased for $999 from Frys. If alignment is OK and there is no dust I will be thrilled. Sale is on thru the 10th I believe.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21050508
> 
> 
> MM, thanks for your thoughts on the CMA101 vs the Peerless plate. Seems clear which way to go. Much appreciated.
> 
> 
> was thinking I could just use a pass through cable plate like the pic below since I have a nearby power outlet in the attic but I assumed this was a code violation to run the power cord through it. Would this be code compliant after all?



You can use that if your forced to, but even Solid HVAC Plenums can be lifted the 2" to 3" to slide a Double thickness of 3/4" Ply between then and the top of the ceiling joists. If the Plate is already installed, feeding a Nipple up through the ceiling hole and threading it into the plate's hole should not be impossible.


But only you can make that determination. For my part, I can only suggest that you go to whatever lengths that remain reasonable for you to consider doing so as to effect the most pristine and exacting installation you can..


You would never regret having done so.


BTW, emolloc's suggestion, if I read it correctly, is something that is also possible. Running Romex from a location close to the equipment and to a point over the PJ in the attic where you place a "Box', and installing a Box at the "Equipment end" creates a Double Female Code compliant" connection. With that you can use a double-ended Male AC cord to bridge between a UPS and the wall, and Jump from the attic outlet down the Pipe to the PJ.


That offers up both Surge and Power protection to your Pj...and that's actually what I do 95% of the time.


----------



## Lavalamps

Does anyone know if the 8350 can accept a 48 fps signal. Not 2:2, for example if the hobbit gets a 48 fps version released could this play it 1:1?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21050372
> 
> 
> As for the Power, if an accessible Code-approved single gang box is able to be hung up on a ceiling joist in the attic above the PJ location, plugging in the PJ's provided 110 AC cord and running it down through the Pipe will pass muster in all 50 States.



Thanks for verifying this. As I was looking at this, I realized the possibility and just how clean an install that would be. Only a 1.5" hole in ceiling sheetrock ... put all the mounts and AC boxes hidden in attic.


----------



## rcliff

MM, I found a 1 1/2" extension at home depot (hopefully it has the right thread). I'd like to finish this up this weekend so I also bought the flange below and a couple of 3 1/2" x 5/16" lag bolts. I planned to paint the flange white to match ceiling. What do you think?

http:  Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lavalamps* /forum/post/21050907
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the 8350 can accept a 48 fps signal. Not 2:2, for example if the hobbit gets a 48 fps version released could this play it 1:1?



Probably not.

See page 68, HDTV signal specifications

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf 


.


----------



## kawie01

Calibration Help


I downloaded and ran the calibration disc. Everyone seems to have their contrast in the positives and brightness in the negatives, mine is reversed. Contrast is neg & brightness is in the pos. What gives"


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21051688
> 
> 
> Calibration Help
> 
> 
> I downloaded and ran the calibration disc. Everyone seems to have their contrast in the positives and brightness in the negatives, mine is reversed. Contrast is neg & brightness is in the pos. What gives"



What brand & type of screen do you have?


----------



## elmalloc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21051180
> 
> 
> MM, I found a 1 1/2" extension at home depot (hopefully it has the right thread). I'd like to finish this up this weekend so I also bought the flange below and a couple of 3 1/2" x 5/16" lag bolts. I planned to paint the flange white to match ceiling. What do you think?
> 
> http:  Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Home Depot can make you any length extension. Just ask one of the employees to cut a threaded pipe for you to what length you need. It's spectacular customer service, truly....


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21051951
> 
> 
> Home Depot can make you any length extension. Just ask one of the employees to cut a threaded pipe for you to what length you need. It's spectacular customer service, truly....




What he said.....







And yes...the standard Thread used on Steel Pipe matches the Thread on the RPA mounts.


rcliff, that's a hefty Flange there! Last time I used one like that I was hanging a huge SONY, one of their first 1080p units. It weighed in at over 45lbs, so that time it was Steel Pipe and Flange-City.


----------



## jsil

My Mitsubishi HC6500 has about 3100 hours on it. Right now Fry's has the 8350 on sale and was wondering about it's PQ vs HC6500. Should I just replace the lamp on my HC6500 or get the 8350.


----------



## elmalloc

3100 hours ..jeezus louisis diggity dog chr1st..i don't think I'm even at 310 hours after 3 years, pathetic me


----------



## domingos1965

is it possibly to mount the 8350 on my ceiling without using studs just sheet rock?

is the 8700 worth the extra $$$ over the 8350?


----------



## Mikes2cents

Anything is possible though not necessarily advisable. There are some real good drywall anchors these days but I would not recommend them for ceiling mounting a PJ at all. The anchors are primarily for vertical walls. Bottom line, I say no.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/21052466
> 
> 
> 3100 hours ..jeezus louisis diggity dog chr1st..i don't think I'm even at 310 hours after 3 years, pathetic me



HuH? are u joking around here? 310 hrs in 3 yrs is like 2 movie a month isn't it? I thought I was behind with 275 hrs in 14 mos.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/21052528
> 
> 
> is it possibly to mount the 8350 on my ceiling without using studs just sheet rock?
> 
> is the 8700 worth the extra $$$ over the 8350?



Oh yes, you can also use that magic putty as an extra substance that can stick to any surface and with things like sheet rock, dry wall it's even better. It's like super glue once it's dry and cured which is in minutes. And we're talking only about 20lbs here too which it handle easy probably with any screws.


----------



## jsil

Yes, I use my FP a lot from watching football on Sundays to movies and TV on it. That's why I have 3100 hours on it. Now back to the question new lamp or 8350.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/21052528
> 
> 
> is it possibly to mount the 8350 on my ceiling without using studs just sheet rock?



No.


I've never seen a ceiling where you couldn't hit a stud. That means at least 2 lag bolts into a stud (that are really holding it up).


You don't want it falling and hitting someone. Remember, safety first.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/21052528
> 
> 
> is it possibly to mount the 8350 on my ceiling without using studs just sheet rock?
> 
> is the 8700 worth the extra $$$ over the 8350?



Yes you can.


Go ahead you 'Fraidy cats....., hate me.










There are Plastic Toggle Anchors available that place a 3" wide bar across a 1/2" Hole, and are rated at 60 lbs ea, Use Four of those spaced out 8" Corner to Corner and you can easily accommodate the 8350. (...no swinging on it though...)


Such Fasteners are use to hang Kitchen cabinets that can weigh up to 100 lbs each.


Using the Peerless ACC570 Plate, it's all really quite easily done.


I've hung a LG CF181 with them (26 lbs), and Wall mounts for up to 65" Plasmas and LCD TVs.


Guys, (...to whomever it applies...) don't go so far as to discount or dismiss anything out of hand if you've got no experience dealing with such or are not yourself aware of a solution. It's not fair to those who might need encouragement. You don't have to say yes if your not sure...but you don't have to irrevocably say no.




Also..

The 8700 is worth the difference if you want the absolute best Black levels in any given circumstances. However a High Contrast Screen mated with the 8350 can RocK your World. Then again, using the 8700 with such a screen is even more moving an experience.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/21052648
> 
> 
> Yes, I use my FP a lot from watching football on Sundays to movies and TV on it. That's why I have 3100 hours on it. Now back to the question new lamp or 8350.




8350. You get a new 2 yr warranty, Bulb Replacement over that period, and more brightness without loss of Contrast.


What's not to like?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21052716
> 
> 
> Guys, (...to whomever it applies...) don't go so far as to discount or dismiss anything out of hand if you've got no experience dealing with such or are not yourself aware of a solution. It's not fair to those who might need encouragement. You don't have to say yes if your not sure...but you don't have to irrevocably say no.



MM I know you are in the business of can do. I also agree it can be done. I also agree with the poster who said one can find a stud somewhere in the window of mounting. Regardless, when I see someone asking a question like this it leads me to believe they ought not attempt to do it because if they had the know how in the first place they would probably not be asking. Just find a stud for at least two screws in this instance. The 8350 is very forgiving.


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21052716
> 
> 
> Yes you can.
> 
> 
> Go ahead you 'Fraidy cats....., hate me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are Plastic Toggle Anchors available that place a 3" wide bar across a 1/2" Hole, and are rated at 60 lbs ea, Use Four of those spaced out 8" Corner to Corner and you can easily accommodate the 8350. (...no swinging on it though...)
> 
> 
> Such Fasteners are use to hang Kitchen cabinets that can weigh up to 100 lbs each.
> 
> 
> Using the Peerless ACC570 Plate, it's all really quite easily done.
> 
> 
> I've hung a LG CF181 with them (26 lbs), and Wall mounts for up to 65" Plasmas and LCD TVs.
> 
> 
> Guys, (...to whomever it applies...) don't go so far as to discount or dismiss anything out of hand if you've got no experience dealing with such or are not yourself aware of a solution. It's not fair to those who might need encouragement. You don't have to say yes if your not sure...but you don't have to irrevocably say no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also..
> 
> The 8700 is worth the difference if you want the absolute best Black levels in any given circumstances. However a High Contrast Screen mated with the 8350 can RocK your World. Then again, using the 8700 with such a screen is even more moving an experience.



can u point me to a place that sells High


----------



## domingos1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21052716
> 
> 
> Yes you can.
> 
> 
> Go ahead you 'Fraidy cats....., hate me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are Plastic Toggle Anchors available that place a 3" wide bar across a 1/2" Hole, and are rated at 60 lbs ea, Use Four of those spaced out 8" Corner to Corner and you can easily accommodate the 8350. (...no swinging on it though...)
> 
> 
> Such Fasteners are use to hang Kitchen cabinets that can weigh up to 100 lbs each.
> 
> 
> Using the Peerless ACC570 Plate, it's all really quite easily done.
> 
> 
> I've hung a LG CF181 with them (26 lbs), and Wall mounts for up to 65" Plasmas and LCD TVs.
> 
> 
> Guys, (...to whomever it applies...) don't go so far as to discount or dismiss anything out of hand if you've got no experience dealing with such or are not yourself aware of a solution. It's not fair to those who might need encouragement. You don't have to say yes if your not sure...but you don't have to irrevocably say no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also..
> 
> The 8700 is worth the difference if you want the absolute best Black levels in any given circumstances. However a High Contrast Screen mated with the 8350 can RocK your World. Then again, using the 8700 with such a screen is even more moving an experience.



can u point me to a place that sells High Contrast screens?


----------



## kawie01

I have an accuscreen White 106


----------



## kawie01

Good pic just reversed numbers?


----------



## jsil

MississippiMan,

The screen that I'm using right now is the BW is this a good match for the 8350 or 8700.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos1965* /forum/post/21052806
> 
> 
> can u point me to a place that sells High Contrast screens?



You don't mention a size, or a budget, so below are some links to a few very good, low budget HC Screens. The links are for Fixed Screens (solid frame)

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...69lt-120gy.htm 

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...s169gy-106.htm 

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...69lt-100gy.htm 

http://www.htdepot.com/Recon_A_Focup...72111-a104.htm 


These screens have most all you'll need if your "entry-level" and still have great expectations. T'was a time suggesting a HG Gray screen was akin to condemning someone to having muted colors and dull whites.

........unless they owned a PJ with sufficient lumens (2000) and accurate colors in the brighter Modes.


Excepting those owning into the Panny 100-200 series and some Optomas, (...and a few with Presentation PJs), that left owning a HC Gray screen resigned to something like self-flagellation.


No more...with the 8350 in Living Room Mode, and calibrated to the shade of Gray of the screen. It's pretty much a "jaw drop" moment when you first see

the blacks go deep south while the perception of having higher white levels remains the same.


For the absolute best results, mount the PJ within 2' of the minimum Throw needed to achieve your image size and try hard to center the Lens on the Screen's center.


What you could / should expect.


Epson 8350

125" Diagonal HC Gray Screen (Fixed: w/Beveled Black Velvet Frame)

Throw Distance 14'

16 ft. Lambert off screen brightness


Screen cost: $449.00


Certainly rhere are "High Gain" Gray Screens, as well as reference White Screens and several worthy DIY screens (...my favorite...) . But the ones above have seen much action, and very few complaints. And obviously, you won't find any other Mfg. Fixed Screens of any appreciable level build quality / performance in the respective Screen sizes... elsewhere that come within being 100% more expensive then the ones above.


Perhaps the best thing...you'll not feel like your being dragged through the streets if you decide to upgrade later to a more advanced, expensive screen because you only sank $225 to 440 dollars to get stated.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/21053001
> 
> 
> MississippiMan,
> 
> The screen that I'm using right now is the BW is this a good match for the 8350 or 8700.



Yes....and the lower you place the PJ, the less of a degree of "Speckles" you'll see. a bright PJ tends to highlight the difference between reflective particles and the non reflective areas surrounding them.

Narrowing the angle you view the image coming from the PJ will reduce their overt presence...leastwise as much as the effect can be mitigated.
*

domingos1965, The Screen just referred to is a DIY High Contrast Gray that is an example of a Gray Screen that can take full advantage of a bright Pj w/decent Contrast already in the bag.

The issues I mentioned are subjective...and not always "issues" at all for some.*


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21052771
> 
> 
> MM I know you are in the business of can do. I also agree it can be done. I also agree with the poster who said one can find a stud somewhere in the window of mounting. Regardless, when I see someone asking a question like this it leads me to believe they ought not attempt to do it because if they had the know how in the first place they would probably not be asking. Just find a stud for at least two screws in this instance. The 8350 is very forgiving.



Your right.....and as far as the 8350, yes....moving to one side or another from dead center to find a stud can...and should be done because the Lens Shift Feature is there to correct the offset.


But sometime Cosmetics, or 24" O.C. framing running the wrong direction...all sorts of things can stymie, if not stifle a project for the Noob.


The Forum is a place to exchange ideas, and help others. I try to do the latter as much as possible...maybe to a fault to some. Like the above situation. I sometimes see a solution that fits where others either fail to see the same, or just decide not to "Go There", and I just "Go There" myself.


Over 9 years I've dealt with so many people who had absolutely no idea about what they were about to attempt, and walked them through the process, that I just don't relate anymore to the terms, "No can do". and "It's beyond me..." I'm glad if I can make things happen effectively, afford-ably, and as easily as possible. That delves into a great many fronts concerning A/V. If I fly into somewhere with 3 days to do something and get it done, I've developed the knack of not letting anything stop that progress. Usually. Mostly. .......but unfortunately not always. Murphy being a second Cousin on my Wife's side.


But...what I don't ever "intend" to do is step on toes. In what I do in the real world, I train people from the ground up in A/V design and installation. So naturally I carry my life "off Forum" onto "The Forum" just about every day. I'm not alone...AVS is chock full of us crazies.


I definitely see your point though...and it's valid in many cases. It's just I cannot help from trying to do something to change that for those who come asking for such help. Really. Sometimes I feel guilty of I miss a personally directed request for help buried in a plethora of posts. (..and sometimes I even get yelled at for not responding...my loy in Life it seems.)


Brook no mistake...it's become an addiction.










Just ask my Wife.


----------



## frogpond1

A bit off topic but...Obviously we bought our 8350 based off of pro reviews and me perusing the forums here but then I started reading all the negative customer reviews on Amazon. Now I'm scared I made the wrong decision with all the blown bulb stories and other catastrophic failures. Sure our z4 had a panel replaced and had a few premature bulbs but the string of bad incidents with the 8350 seems endless.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21053205
> 
> 
> A bit off topic but...Obviously we bought our 8350 based off of pro reviews and me perusing the forums here but then I started reading all the negative customer reviews on Amazon. Now I'm scared I made the wrong decision with all the blown bulb stories and other catastrophic failures. Sure our z4 had a panel replaced and had a few premature bulbs but the string of bad incidents with the 8350 seems endless.



Well, lets see what shakes out for you. Endless on Amazon isn't the same as it is on AVS.


----------



## Jud64209

I just started working on a plan for my HT and I'm convinced I want to start with the Epson 8350. I can't decide whether I want to buy it online (Amazon, or eBay etc.) or if I should buy it from my local Best Buy store. Best Buy sells them for $1300 but I just got a 12% off coupon I can use for it bringing it down to $1144. Plus I would get back 4% in BB rewards certificates (appx. $45) so I'd really be paying $1100 for a brand new one.


So, two questions.


1. Is this a reasonable price?


2. Where would you (or did you) buy your Epson 8350 from?


Thanks!


----------



## zoey67

Hey MississippiMan, give me your honest opinion. What do you think would be better bang for you buck? an ISF calibration from a really good tech like kevin miller or one of those fixed screens from HTdepot for $449 upgrade from a entry Elite 1.1 white screen. Another words if you can _only_ choose one which would it be?


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21052067
> 
> 
> What he said.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes...the standard Thread used on Steel Pipe matches the Thread on the RPA mounts.
> 
> 
> rcliff, that's a hefty Flange there! Last time I used one like that I was hanging a huge SONY, one of their first 1080p units. It weighed in at over 45lbs, so that time it was Steel Pipe and Flange-City.



Finally got it mounted







I'm pretty pleased with how it came out but still have to run the HDMI and power. MM, thanks so much for your advise and boy were you right about going with the RPA168. So simple and elegant. Glad I didn't by some cheap univeral mount. Oh, and that 8350. What a picture. Stunning!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21055346
> 
> 
> Finally got it mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with how it came out



Good job so far ... looks solid (safe) and pretty. I think I like the idea of using the inexpensive parts from HomeDepot to finish it out ... strong and versatile.


What are your plans for the HDMI and power? Do you have attic access?


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jud64209* /forum/post/21054717
> 
> 
> Where would you (or did you) buy your Epson 8350 from?



I would recommend Amazon. Why? Because if you have panel alignment issues, color uniformity issues or whatnot they will take it back (as defective) no questions asked. Either for a replacement or refund. With the amount of issues projectors have a little insurance goes a long way.


----------



## rakstr

I don't normally cross post (sorry) but I am on this one as there are two things in play and I wanted to get input from actual 8350 projector owners.. Other post is over in the Monoprice screen thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21055597 


I'm on the edge of making some purchases. The Epson 8350 is on the top of my list (local Fry's has them on sale) and I think I want one of the Monoprice 106" screens.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


The room is for TV, Gaming, and movies, DVD and BRay. Room will be dedicated, no windows, with first seating row of 2 at 10 feet and row of 4 seats 6-8 inches up and behind. Relatively small room with only 8' ceiling. NO purchases of seats or screen have been made (yet) BUT I may go get the projector tomorrow.


I'll have the projector ceiling mounted at the exact "no-zoom" throw distance for the projector to produce a full 106" diagonal picture, no left-right shift. The top of the screen will be 9" below the lowest point of the projector (inverted top) so there will be up-down shift.


I've gone back and forth on gray versus white and NOW I've read ALL this information on the screens with the built in mask for 2:35:1 viewing. Is the reflection from the top/bottom black bars for 2:35 format really worth the roughly $150 in price? I know, worth is relative!!!!


So, gray, white, mask, no mask ??????? THANKS in advance


----------



## kawie01

Please show me some love with my situation. Downloaded avs calibration, have contrast in negatives and brightness in positives. Sounds reversed to everyone elses. I have a white accuscreen 106 inch. Not that the size matters but may help with identification.


----------



## frogpond1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jud64209* /forum/post/21054717
> 
> 
> I just started working on a plan for my HT and I'm convinced I want to start with the Epson 8350. I can't decide whether I want to buy it online (Amazon, or eBay etc.) or if I should buy it from my local Best Buy store. Best Buy sells them for $1300 but I just got a 12% off coupon I can use for it bringing it down to $1144. Plus I would get back 4% in BB rewards certificates (appx. $45) so I'd really be paying $1100 for a brand new one.
> 
> 
> So, two questions.
> 
> 
> 1. Is this a reasonable price?
> 
> 
> 2. Where would you (or did you) buy your Epson 8350 from?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Well there are two listings on Amazon and one of them is sold from Electronics Expo which has it for 1085. At the time (last week) EE had it for 1055 but we didn't want to wait so we showed Best Buy the price and seeing as how EE actually has brick and morter stores and not just online sales BB price matched it. Granted we paid tax but we had it in time for Sundays football game


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21053184
> 
> 
> I definitely see your point though...and it's valid in many cases. It's just I cannot help from trying to do something to change that for those who come asking for such help. Really. Sometimes I feel guilty of I miss a personally directed request for help buried in a plethora of posts. (..and sometimes I even get yelled at for not responding...my loy in Life it seems.)
> 
> 
> Brook no mistake...it's become an addiction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just ask my Wife.



Understood. Keep it coming bro. As far as I am concerned you post here for all the right reasons.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21055346
> 
> 
> Finally got it mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with how it came out but still have to run the HDMI and power. MM, thanks so much for your advise and boy were you right about going with the RPA168. So simple and elegant. Glad I didn't by some cheap univeral mount. Oh, and that 8350. What a picture. Stunning!



Man that is a sharp looking unit and install. Funny thing is I have the same PJ on a shelf about 20' from the screen. That is testament to the placement of this unit. Very flexible. That is one of the reasons this unit is so good.


----------



## jsil

Jud64209,

If you have a Fry's store it's going for $999, this week only.


----------



## ethanj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jud64209,
> 
> If you have a Fry's store it's going for $999, this week only.



Actually $899 at my local frys. Makes me wonder if I should've bought this instead of paying almost double for the 8700ub. Oh well.


----------



## elmalloc

gee, 899? i wish i had a frys..


----------



## PRLJAMR

I have recently purchased the 8350 and am happy with the out of the box picture but I noticed when I project the test pattern that the lines on the big circle are very jagged. What does this mean? I don't see any color variations close up just jagged lines. Is this convergence?


----------



## jsil

I was thinking about replacing my lamp on my Mitsubishi HC6500. But with a price of $899 maybe it's better to just get the 8350. Lamp or new FP


----------



## Jud64209




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ethanj* /forum/post/21056776
> 
> 
> Actually $899 at my local frys. Makes me wonder if I should've bought this instead of paying almost double for the 8700ub. Oh well.



Honestly I had never heard of Fry's until you mentioned it. I'm from Michigan and it looks like they don't have a presence here. I did check their website, but they don't offer shipping on the 8350, probably because it's on sale. Oh well










frogpond1: That sounds like a good idea to me. I might have to give that a try. Although I don't know if Best Buy will price match it for me since EE only has stores in NJ and we are in MI. But it's worth a try, thanks!


----------



## vullcan

What was that I read awhile back about the lamp on this model being warrantied up to a few thousand hours?


Does that still stand and how does one go about claiming it? If you call Epson they just tell you the lamp has a 90 day warranty.


----------



## WormInfested

my 7 year old dlp died yesterday and am simply taking it to a goodwill place soon. my wife doesn't mind going the route of a projector. glad on that. is the 8350 the only good thing at this time with lens shift? i know the 3010 doesn't which sucks. it'll be my main viewing machine too. planning on going for 106" screen. not sure if i want to do grey or matte white elite cinetension. my walls are grey and the sloped ceiling above is a glossy white of sorts. i do have a window that i can cover with a fixed screen if my wife doesn't mind but that might not work. i know too that i would have to mount the elite screen on the wall and not the ceiling since it won't work on a sloped ceiling at all.


should i be fine with a 8350 or get something different? i don't have a big budget since i have to consider the screen and the epson is just right for the price. my fryes is out of stock too or else i'd be going down there today and pick it up for that awesome sale.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WormInfested* /forum/post/21058708
> 
> 
> should i be fine with a 8350 or get something different? i don't have a big budget since i have to consider the screen and the epson is just right for the price. my fryes is out of stock too or else i'd be going down there today and pick it up for that awesome sale.



IMOO big time yes. The 8350 is just an deceivingly awesome PJ worth well beyond it's lure price. I believe strongly that it's the _point of diminishing return_s for any PJ. Another words you can spent 2-3k or more and yes sure the improvements are there BUT they're incrementally smaller and negligible. . Did you see that you tube video I posted in the epson 3d thread from projectorpeople that has the 8350 right next to 8700? Practically identical. Get the 8350 with a nice screen and good hdmi cables and you'll have no regrets or remorse.


----------



## jsil

zoey67,

Do you think that 8350 is better than a Mitsubishi HC6500. I'm looking only at PQ between both FP.


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21055473
> 
> 
> Good job so far ... looks solid (safe) and pretty. I think I like the idea of using the inexpensive parts from HomeDepot to finish it out ... strong and versatile.
> 
> 
> What are your plans for the HDMI and power? Do you have attic access?



Thanks. Not quite sure what I'm going to do for the power yet. I do have attic access and wanted to just run everything through the cable plate below but I think running the power cord is not code compliant. I'm considering possibly using one of the powerbridge type power extenders which are code compliant but I might just have to spring for an electrician to come out.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WormInfested* /forum/post/21058708
> 
> 
> my 7 year old dlp died yesterday and am simply taking it to a goodwill place soon. my wife doesn't mind going the route of a projector. glad on that. is the 8350 the only good thing at this time with lens shift? i know the 3010 doesn't which sucks. it'll be my main viewing machine too. planning on going for 106" screen. not sure if i want to do grey or matte white elite cinetension. my walls are grey and the sloped ceiling above is a glossy white of sorts. i do have a window that i can cover with a fixed screen if my wife doesn't mind but that might not work. i know too that i would have to mount the elite screen on the wall and not the ceiling since it won't work on a sloped ceiling at all.
> 
> 
> should i be fine with a 8350 or get something different? i don't have a big budget since i have to consider the screen and the epson is just right for the price. my fryes is out of stock too or else i'd be going down there today and pick it up for that awesome sale.



The 8350 is a great projector for the price but due to it being a 3LCD panel, it mat look soft compared to your DLP IF your viewing distance is less than 1.5x the screen size.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/21059252
> 
> 
> zoey67,
> 
> Do you think that 8350 is better than a Mitsubishi HC6500. I'm looking only at PQ between both FP.



Sorry can't help you there bec I've not seen that Mits. But here's the thing, they're both great PJ Im sure but once you've seen the 8350 set up, any thoughts of other PJ will magically dissipate. Right now with the 8350 clearance prices whatever PQ improvement _if any_ over the 8350 is really splitting hairs.


----------



## WormInfested

For me I sit on the couch about 9-10 feet back. I had a 52 inch dlp that was quite sharp and clear for a 720p tv with a non matte screen. It was like a window. If the 8350 isn't similar in that regard. Then would the Benq w6000 be up my alley? It'll be on a shelf behind the couch.


----------



## frogpond1

Actually all you have to do is prove they have brick and mortar stores and your good. We're from CT and the closest EE store is on the border of NY/NJ. I went in with the price up on my smartphone and had already talked to the manager.


----------



## elmalloc

frogpond, who or what are you talking about? Frys?


----------



## wormraper

damn, the frys website lists it as $999.99 ... if I new my Fry's in phoenix had it for $899 I have a buddy who'd gladly go up to phx on a road trip







. would sooooooooooo be worth it. but at $999 + tax it puts it only $50 less exp than amazon


----------



## frogpond1

@elmalloc I was referring to Electronics Expo for Jud64209.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WormInfested* /forum/post/21060042
> 
> 
> For me I sit on the couch about 9-10 feet back. I had a 52 inch dlp that was quite sharp and clear for a 720p tv with a non matte screen. It was like a window. If the 8350 isn't similar in that regard. Then would the Benq w6000 be up my alley? It'll be on a shelf behind the couch.



At that viewing distance and staying at a 106" screen or less, you should be fine.


Also keep in mind that the Epson fan noise is quiet in comparison to the W6000. This will be noticeable if it's in close proximity to your viewing area.


----------



## ratfnk5

i have had my 8350 for almost a year. Tonight i will be taking the filter out for a cleaning, and clean the lens.


I am really happy with this projector. and my Dalite screen. I would like to do some tweaking so i can get the best picture. Does anyone have a link to settings? I thought Mississippi Man had one but i have looked and looked an cant find them.


----------



## DIONJAMES

Ya the going price now is $899, Best Buy price match. Makes you wonder if they are going to drop any more although it seems unlikley.


----------



## LoudandClear

Just stopped by local frys and got a raincheck for the $899 price. I wonder if Epson is officially dropping the price this low. If they do it will surely slow interest in the sales of the new 3010. Whenever it gets here.


This will be my first lcd projector. I'm switching from a InFocus SP7205 (720p/DLP) that bit the dust. I hope I see a big improvement..


----------



## WormInfested

my local Frys are out of stock and don't do rainchecks. best buy couldn't match it since the stock was depleted to zero. still deciding if i'm going with this one or something else. dropped my dead dlp rear off at goodwill yesterday. too bad the 3010 doesn't have lens shift.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/21061964
> 
> 
> Just stopped by local frys and got a raincheck for the $899 price. I wonder if Epson is officially dropping the price this low. If they do it will surely slow interest in the sales of the new 3010. Whenever it gets here.
> 
> 
> This will be my first lcd projector. I'm switching from a InFocus SP7205 (720p/DLP) that bit the dust. I hope I see a big improvement..



You already know what a big fan I am with the 8350 and as someone who's been in your shoes with an infocus in72 720p, I would say the average person who's not into HT could not tell the diff between a in72 and 8350 with blu ray movie.


Im just saying with the 8350 you still will be very happy but I don't think you will see that "big" improvement. For that level of big diff I think you might have to step up to the 5010. Anyone coming from good home theater 720p infocus PJ has been spoiled indeed with a nice PQ.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21062260
> 
> 
> You already know what a big fan I am with the 8350 and as someone who's been in your shoes with an infocus in72 720p, I would say the average person who's not into HT could not tell the diff between a in72 and 8350 with blu ray movie.
> 
> 
> Im just saying with the 8350 you still will be very happy but I don't think you will see that "big" improvement. For that level of big diff I think you might have to step up to the 5010. Anyone coming from good home theater 720p infocus PJ has been spoiled indeed with a nice PQ.



I'm stepping up from the epson 705HD so I'm pretty sure I'm gonna see a pretty beefy difference


----------



## F R E A K

hi


first thing sorry for my english because iam from bahrain



second thing i have a few questions and proplems



1- what the "iris" Property do ?

2- how i can control the motion detection ? becuase it comes grey and i cant control it ( and the motion detection for what ????)

3-i have proplem in the speed motion i see blure and jedder how i can reduce it? by wich Property??



thanxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


th


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21062260
> 
> 
> Im just saying with the 8350 you still will be very happy but I don't think you will see that "big" improvement. For that level of big diff I think you might have to step up to the 5010. Anyone coming from good home theater 720p infocus PJ has been spoiled indeed with a nice PQ.



My #1 choice was the 8700UB but now that's $1000 more than my 8350 price. Even if the 8350 gives me the same PQ as my 7205 it says a lot for the advancements since my 7205 was a $4995 msrp unit back in 2005 when I bought it. I'm a little concerned about the convergence thing on a 3 lcd vs a DLP but it's not an accross the board problem so hopefully I will get a good one. I'll know soon hopefully if frys gets that shipement in this week. One good thing about buying locally is easy to return. One thing I hated about my 7205 was it was extremely loud. 37dB on high fan mode even though it was mounted high on back wall, it was still loud.


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21062392
> 
> 
> I'm stepping up from the epson 705HD so I'm pretty sure I'm gonna see a pretty beefy difference



As the president from Burlington coat factory would say...*You're going to love it...I guarantee it*


----------



## wormraper

one quick question. I have this mount for my Epson 705HD
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/pms.htm 


will it work for the 8350... ?? I know the 8350 is a bit larger so I wanted to make sure that it would work with the larger sized 8350


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoey67* /forum/post/21062801
> 
> 
> As the president from Burlington coat factory would say...*You're going to love it...I guarantee it*



Ummm, I think that's Men's Warehouse!


----------



## zoey67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21063502
> 
> 
> Ummm, I think that's Men's Warehouse!



duh,.. oops


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F R E A K* /forum/post/21062544
> 
> 
> hi
> 
> 
> first thing sorry for my english because iam from bahrain
> 
> 
> 
> second thing i have a few questions and proplems
> 
> 
> 
> 1- what the "iris" Property do ?
> 
> 2- how i can control the motion detection ? becuase it comes grey and i cant control it ( and the motion detection for what ????)
> 
> 3-i have proplem in the speed motion i see blure and jedder how i can reduce it? by wich Property??
> 
> 
> 
> thanxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> th



I am going to try here. Iris is for fake contrast and is noisy, I do not use it because it does not work well for me. Motion detection I am not sure about because my unit came with a manual which covers the 8350/8700 and I cannot find anything on that. As for judder, your input signal is probably to blame either the source or a cable perhaps. Good luck. Bahrain eh? Been there once. Nice place, I enjoyed my time there.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21063254
> 
> 
> one quick question. I have this mount for my Epson 705HD
> http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/pms.htm
> 
> 
> will it work for the 8350... ?? I know the 8350 is a bit larger so I wanted to make sure that it would work with the larger sized 8350



Almost assuredly not. The U-channel Arms would need to be almost 11" long and the ones provided by that Mount Mfg are not.


I used a similar "provided" mount just once, and the 2 trips to the hardware store couldn't help a bit. Had I not found extra unused Channel Arms that remained of a older Peerless Universal Mount kit I had not discarded, the PJ would have remained unmounted until a new Mount was ordered. As it was, the end result looked like a Frankenstein-like Erector Set nightmare.


That is not to say you cannot try though.


Ask yourself one question; "Do you feel lucky?".


"Well do ya........?"


Ka-Pow!


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21064553
> 
> 
> Almost assuredly not. The U-channel Arms would need to be almost 11" long and the ones provided by that Mount Mfg are not.



According to the technical specifications:


> Quote:
> The maximum spread of the holes cannot exceed *18.5 inches*


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/21064588
> 
> 
> According to the technical specifications:_*
> 
> The maximum spread of the holes cannot exceed 18.5 inches*_



Well the 8350 is 17.7" w by 15.7" deep, and the mounting holes do lie inside those parameters. The extra needed "length" to get out to the mounting holes is provided by the Mount's central Flange.


So accordingly, it looks like it could work. Just be sure to tighten those Squared Channel Bolts down snugly.


Oh yeah....also be advised that the screws that held the "feet" onto the older PJ might not be the correct size in millimeters for the 8350 so you might have to source those at the hardware store. Get ones that are at/under 12 mm long.


----------



## wormraper

cool, thanks for the advice. I'll wait a tad to hear if more people have used this one. supposedly it can handle up to 40 lb's and we actuall hung off the mount when we installed it to make sure it was stable on the ceiling. my epson 705hd has been stable as a rock so I'm hoping I don't have to go spend MORE money that my wife will roll her eyes at










and I just set it on a shelf and have tested it out..... O...........m..........G........ is all I can say. I new it would be a step up but not THIS big... wow, after some calibration all I can say is wow.


I drove up to Frys in phx with a couple of friends and we each bought one


----------



## MississippiMan

..........another happy camper.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21064811
> 
> 
> ..........another happy camper.



VERY happy. and the thing is nearly dead quiet too!!!


ONLY thing I'm worried about is the issue of dying bulbs that Epson 1080p projectors have been having the last year. hopefully Epson has a new batch of bulbs to fix this issue in my new PJ


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21064626
> 
> 
> Well the 8350 is 17.7" w by 15.7" deep, and the mounting holes do lie inside those parameters. The extra needed "length" to get out to the mounting holes is provided by the Mount's central Flange.
> 
> 
> So accordingly, it looks like it could work. Just be sure to tighten those Squared Channel Bolts down snugly.
> 
> 
> Oh yeah....also be advised that the screws that held the "feet" onto the older PJ might not be the correct size in millimeters for the 8350 so you might have to source those at the hardware store. Get ones that are at/under 12 mm long.



hmm, you mentioned the screws might not be the correct size.. they are 6mm screws. will those be enough?


----------



## JP

Best Buy is such a mess. The price listed at Fry's seemed like a good deal to buy local so I took some documentation to Best Buy for them to stand behind their price match policy. The salesman I met with was very nice, but since this wasn't his routine store that he works at he had to continually go to his supervisor for advice. Rather than her speaking with me she continued to direct him to speak with me. This was a conversation 20 feet away from me? I was first told they couldn't price match and he didn't have an explanation. When I asked why, he had to go back for an explanation. He then came back and said that they could not go beneath the lowest price listed "in their system." That seemed odd to me since it sort of defeats the very concept behind price matching so I asked if I could speak with the person he was speaking with. She walked away and then I was met with an Operations Manager who explained to me everything that I was just told was inaccurate. They could price match if the store I was attempting to price match with had the product in stock and was within 20 miles of their store. Houston is a big place and the Fry's that had it in stock was 25 miles away. I thanked him for the explanation and left.


All this was more of curiosity than anything. To be honest I probably feel better buying from someone like Projector People. They have long supported the avsforum. Anyway, just felt like sharing the poor experience.


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21064852
> 
> 
> VERY happy. and the thing is nearly dead quiet too!!!



That's good to hear.







My last projector was LOUD.


Can you tell me how far in from the sides are the mounting screws on the bottom? Or what is the distance between them? I'm trying to figure out if my current home made mount will work. It was a shelf but I mounted the projector upside down under it.


----------



## WormInfested




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21065251
> 
> 
> Best Buy is such a mess. The price listed at Fry's seemed like a good deal to buy local so I took some documentation to Best Buy for them to stand behind their price match policy. The salesman I met with was very nice, but since this wasn't his routine store that he works at he had to continually go to his supervisor for advice. Rather than her speaking with me she continued to direct him to speak with me. This was a conversation 20 feet away from me? I was first told they couldn't price match and he didn't have an explanation. When I asked why, he had to go back for an explanation. He then came back and said that they could not go beneath the lowest price listed "in their system." That seemed odd to me since it sort of defeats the very concept behind price matching so I asked if I could speak with the person he was speaking with. She walked away and then I was met with an Operations Manager who explained to me everything that I was just told was inaccurate. They could price match if the store I was attempting to price match with had the product in stock and was within 20 miles of their store. Houston is a big place and the Fry's that had it in stock was 25 miles away. I thanked him for the explanation and left.
> 
> 
> All this was more of curiosity than anything. To be honest I probably feel better buying from someone like Projector People. They have long supported the avsforum. Anyway, just felt like sharing the poor experience.



i had the same experience too with my local BB. pissed me off and i walked. i'm still teetering between this one and the benq w6000. i guess i'm into dlp but the one year warranty versus two years is challenging. hate making decisions like this


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WormInfested* /forum/post/21066080
> 
> 
> i had the same experience too with my local BB. pissed me off and i walked. i'm still teetering between this one and the benq w6000. i guess i'm into dlp but the one year warranty versus two years is challenging. hate making decisions like this



Seems like a bunch of Fry's Employees got jobs at Best Buy


----------



## soutthpaw

Well it took just one call to Epson to get my 8350 that is about 15 months old replaced due to 2-3 pixel convergence and the infamous lens shift problem... mine go so bad that it was dropping about 1 inch per hr. so finally got around to calling for a replacement. so far seems ok but the initial hook up it dropped about 2 inches in 2 hrs. reset it last night and still in the same position this morning... hopefully this one is on. they did ship refurbished unit but zero bulb hrs and appears brand new. I think so many of these had initial issues with lens drop, convergence etc of the bat that they probably have an extensive collection of very low hr refurb machines to swap out with. this one is only 1 pixel off with convergence but the top and right side are 2 pixels over with the overscan turned off using the Disney blue ray disk


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/21066132
> 
> 
> Well it took just one call to Epson to get my 8350 that is about 15 months old replaced due to 2-3 pixel convergence and the infamous lens shift problem... mine go so bad that it was dropping about 1 inch per hr. so finally got around to calling for a replacement. so far seems ok but the initial hook up it dropped about 2 inches in 2 hrs. reset it last night and still in the same position this morning... hopefully this one is on. they did ship refurbished unit but zero bulb hrs and appears brand new. I think so many of these had initial issues with lens drop, convergence etc of the bat that they probably have an extensive collection of very low hr refurb machines to swap out with. this one is only 1 pixel off with convergence but the top and right side are 2 pixels over with the overscan turned off using the Disney blue ray disk



lens shift problem??? that doesn't sound good. is that an issue I'll have to watch for in the newer ones like mine?


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WormInfested* /forum/post/21066080
> 
> 
> i had the same experience too with my local BB. pissed me off and i walked. i'm still teetering between this one and the benq w6000. i guess i'm into dlp but the one year warranty versus two years is challenging. hate making decisions like this



I just tried the BB price match since they had some in stock. What a joke!


Store manager told me I had to bring in an advertised price like the sales flyer. I told him the flyer had the $1299 price but said before savings. I then showed him my raincheck that showed $899 but he wouldn't do it. I left angry and went back to Frys and saw there was a tag that listed the item at $899. Of course they will do everything in their power to not honor that price match.


I wonder what BB would do if I borrowed Frys in store tag that listed item and price and took it in. I'm sure they would find some way to not honor the match!


----------



## DIONJAMES

I actually did get BB to price match im just having a hard time pulling the trigger. I have been following this thread for about a month now and I think this is the right projector,right price im just having a hard time for some reason. I have a nice 65" plasma in the living room with my surround's set up but I just think there is so much more that im missing. I have an extra room that is 18' by 16' and very dark so I think that would make a nice set-up. Its kinda hard pulling the trigger when you have the employees at BB saying stuff like "nobody is buying projectors anymore!" I think at that price even if I change my mind im not going to get hurt that bad---


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21066902
> 
> 
> lens shift problem??? that doesn't sound good. is that an issue I'll have to watch for in the newer ones like mine?



yeah the image will slide down the screen over several hrs. Not sure why they have not been able to tighten it in all this time. my replacement seems to be doing it too. will wait a few days till I see they got my returned unit back. if I still have the problem I am going to make sure they send it to "Tier 2" support and actually test it themselves before then send it out... some folks have had luck taping the lens shift wheel in place but I don't think I should have to do that on a $1300 projector!


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soutthpaw* /forum/post/21067266
> 
> 
> yeah the image will slide down the screen over several hrs. Not sure why they have not been able to tighten it in all this time. my replacement seems to be doing it too. will wait a few days till I see they got my returned unit back. if I still have the problem I am going to make sure they send it to "Tier 2" support and actually test it themselves before then send it out... some folks have had luck taping the lens shift wheel in place but I don't think I should have to do that on a $1300 projector!



yeah, that does sound frustrating. I plan on using that little yellow foam thing that the lens is wrapped in to stabilize it just to be safe but I understand the notion of it should [email protected] work out of the box too


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21067263
> 
> 
> I actually did get BB to price match im just having a hard time pulling the trigger. I have been following this thread for about a month now and I think this is the right projector,right price im just having a hard time for some reason. I have a nice 65" plasma in the living room with my surround's set up but I just think there is so much more that im missing. I have an extra room that is 18' by 16' and very dark so I think that would make a nice set-up. Its kinda hard pulling the trigger when you have the employees at BB saying stuff like "nobody is buying projectors anymore"



BB employees rarely know what they are talking about. There are a few who are knowledgeable, but those are the exceptions. You are missing a ton in overall viewing experience by sticking with the 65". You will not regret going FP. Plus, the 65" makes for a nice bedroom set.










To put it in perspective, your 65" set has a viewing area of 1,809 sq inches. A 110" FP image provides 5,169 sq inches of viewing pleasure. That's 185.8% larger. There is no comparison.


----------



## soutthpaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21067263
> 
> 
> I actually did get BB to price match im just having a hard time pulling the trigger. I have been following this thread for about a month now and I think this is the right projector,right price im just having a hard time for some reason. I have a nice 65" plasma in the living room with my surround's set up but I just think there is so much more that im missing. I have an extra room that is 18' by 16' and very dark so I think that would make a nice set-up. Its kinda hard pulling the trigger when you have the employees at BB saying stuff like "nobody is buying projectors anymore"



They say that crap cuz they don't know better and usually don't even have a working projector on display. There is a much bigger markup on the TV sales... How do you expect them to sell projectors and screens if they have no active displays... TV's are all on display. I doubt most of them have had any training about projector sales at all...


Once u get one setup and have a home theater system, everyone that comes over will be amazed at the picture quality and the whole experience.

Then they get pissed when they find out your whole home theater setup cost less than their fancy 65"LED TV... see the DIY screens forum and one can be done for $50... that rivals many $$$ screens.. If I didn't already own a projector and was not in a hurry to buy I would wait a few months and see what comes of the new crop of 3D machines...


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21067263
> 
> 
> I actually did get BB to price match im just having a hard time pulling the trigger.



What did you show them to make them agree to do it? I wouldn't be surprised when you actually try to purchase that things change.


As far as pulling the trigger here's my 2 cents. My 720P projector died a few weeks back. I am going nuts because I feel like I'm missing something when I watch my 55" LED TV for sports events i.e football, UFC and such. With a good price like this why not buy it and return it if you don't like the picture that you get. If you were going to have to purchase mail order with either no returns or shipping expenses involved then I see your reason for holding off. Just try it and I'm 98% sure you will like it.


----------



## DIONJAMES




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/21067378
> 
> 
> What did you show them to make them agree to do it? I wouldn't be surprised when you actually try to purchase that things change.
> 
> 
> As far as pulling the trigger here's my 2 cents. My 720P projector died a few weeks back. I am going nuts because I feel like I'm missing something when I watch my 55" LED TV for sports events i.e football, UFC and such. With a good price like this why not buy it and return it if you don't like the picture that you get. If you were going to have to purchase mail order with either no returns or shipping expenses involved then I see your reason for holding off. Just try it and I'm 98% sure you will like it.



Well you were kinda right when I went down there to purchase, the mgr on duty said that price is imposable we dont have that much mark up in projectors... I asked to speak with a different mgr.( higher up) That mgr said as long as we call and they have in stock and verify that they are new unopened than I will match. Well at that point he didnt ask how much they were selling for so I think he was a little surprised when he heard the price but at that point he had already agreed to it. We called on speaker and they verified,he matched, I bought. Frys is about 110 miles from here so im kind of surprised they matched but they did. By the way Phoenix has 1 left. Now for a good 120" screen............


----------



## Allforce

You guys and your mounts, the future for projector installation is shelves!

*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) Spoiler  
*Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allforce* /forum/post/21067910
> 
> 
> You guys and your mounts, the future for projector installation is shelves!



That's only if your room is too small. When you figure out how to mount a shelf in midair, let me know.


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/21068163
> 
> 
> That's only if your room is too small. When you figure out how to mount a shelf in midair, let me know.



lol, you made my day,


----------



## Davinleeds

That's very theater like. What is that projectionist doing behind that wall? My 8350 is on the top shelf of my AV rack atm.


----------



## wormraper

I'm not sure if there's a dedicated mouth thread so please forgive me if I'm in the wrong spot, but I was thinking of getting a more stable mount than the PMS one from mountdirect.com
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/pms.htm 

(it worked great for my 705HD which was only 6 lb's but I just felt a bit nervous using the bulkier and heavier 8350 on the same spider arm )


sooooooo I've been hearing great things about peerless and chief mounts. if they're worth the money. any specific model that comes to mind.???


also... I have a sloped ceiling so I can't install a flat ceiling mount. (as you can see from the pic)










I assume I'd need something like THIS
http://www.projectorpeople.com/acces...p?itemid=20239 


(although $50 for a bracket like that seems ridiculous... seems you could just build an angled bracket yourself at home depot or something)


----------



## frogpond1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21067832
> 
> 
> Well you were kinda right when I went down there to purchase, the mgr on duty said that price is imposable we dont have that much mark up in projectors... I asked to speak with a different mgr.( higher up) That mgr said as long as we call and they have in stock and verify that they are new unopened than I will match. Well at that point he didnt ask how much they were selling for so I think he was a little surprised when he heard the price but at that point he had already agreed to it. We called on speaker and they verified,he matched, I bought. Frys is about 110 miles from here so im kind of surprised they matched but they did. By the way Phoenix has 1 left. Now for a good 120" screen............



Way to go!! You won't be disapointed and as many others have said BB just likes to say a bunch of crap because they don't know.


----------



## Dregan

Whats this lens shift problem people are talking about ? iv got just over 1000 hours on my projector and the image has been dead on for almost a year now, iv never had to re-adjust it and i have a pretty masive sound system with dual 12" subs that shakes my walls pretty hard. Maybe i got lucky or is it something that shows up in time ?




















Epson 8350 on 100" fixed 1.1 gain screen

Yamaha 867

Polk Audio Monitor II 70 Mains

Polk Audio CS2 Center

Polk Audio Monitor II 50 surrounds

Polk Audio Monitor II 30 X4 for rear surround and front pressance

800+ Blurays

Polk Audio PSW505 12" Subs X2


----------



## latenight

Is all Frys giving rain checks for the $899 price. Have they discontinued it (which means the rain check will be useless). I'm in Atlanta and I ordered one from the Milton store for in store pickup but got the 0 available message.


Anyone have any luck price matching in the Atlanta area?


----------



## xnappo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *latenight* /forum/post/21071012
> 
> 
> Is all Frys giving rain checks for the $899 price. Have they discontinued it (which means the rain check will be useless). I'm in Atlanta and I ordered one from the Milton store for in store pickup but got the 0 available message.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any luck price matching in the Atlanta area?



Grr - Austin store is $999.


xnappo


----------



## CLE0950

Another mount question, sorry.


Just picked up a 8350 to replace my Panny AX-100u. Unfortunately the Sanus mount I have doesn't fit the 8350. The 4 connector things are too short. Has anyone been able to rig this up with some hardware from Ace or something? I'd hate to have to buy and drill in a new mount.


thanks,


CLE


----------



## bri1270

My 8100 has an issue, Epson is sending out a replacement, but if I were close to a Fry's I'd try to get the 8350 at the discounted price instead.


----------



## DIONJAMES

Well you guys were right, I got the 8350 home last night and was just using a light tan colored wall since I dont have a screen yet and holy $&*@ the picture was much better than I was expecting. We watched HD tv at about 120" for about 2 hours than when I went to bed and had to watch the 65" plasma in the bedroom I found it very difficult to watch so I can see how once you have a projector it would be hard to go back!

The picture was very good right out of the box but has far as calibrating is there a certain amount of hours that I should put on before I do anything? Thanks for everyones help I just wish I would have done sooner although I wouldnt have been able to get at this price point!


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CLE0950* /forum/post/21071352
> 
> 
> Another mount question, sorry.
> 
> 
> Just picked up a 8350 to replace my Panny AX-100u. Unfortunately the Sanus mount I have doesn't fit the 8350. The 4 connector things are too short. Has anyone been able to rig this up with some hardware from Ace or something? I'd hate to have to buy and drill in a new mount.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> CLE



Something to try...

Get a 2' x 2' sheet of 1/4" MDF. Make a baseplate by screwing or bolting the MDF to your mount, then screwing down through it into the projector mount holes.

I'm not sure it will work for you, but if you can make it work, less than $5 solution.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21072173
> 
> 
> Something to try...
> 
> Get a 2' x 2' sheet of 1/4" MDF. Make a baseplate by screwing or bolting the MDF to your mount, then screwing down through it into the projector mount holes.
> 
> I'm not sure it will work for you, but if you can make it work, less than $5 solution.



Or plexiglass of proper thickness. For a piece that small, it doesn't have to be very thick... 1/4" would be max.


Or 2 pieces of metal strips (fashioned in a X) ... like are used to hang garage door openers.


Use nylon spacers or thick washers closest to projector.


EDIT: Also, if not that handy, maybe Sanus has an adapter-plate-kit?


----------



## lespurgeon

Right, I should have said put some stand-offs between projector and base plate. At least 1/2", possibly an inch. You want some airflow - at least as much space as there would be when table mounted.


----------



## Charles R

Admittedly I'm somewhat _picky_ but has anyone found any of these LCD projectors that could stand up to a fairly high-level of quality control? I have tried various brands (not picking on Epson per se) in the past and I have just now tested two 8350s.


#1 - With white text Red was out of alignment a pixel + towards the right and close to a pixel on top. The built-in menu was far too out of focus to be acceptable.


#2 - Alignment was within one pixel across all colors and looked fairly good. However as soon as I ran through my color fields test patterns I noticed the lower right-hand corner image had several green/blue areas of clouds a foot or more across and several inches high. I also noticed them while viewing TiVo so it's not just a test pattern thing. They didn't jump out at you but once they were spotted you couldn't help but see them.


Both are going back and I guess I'm willing to try another but honestly between pixel alignment and color uniformity (#2 also had a red cast on the upper image and green cast on the lower image - not bad enough to reject) it seems rather fruitless. Even more so as again I have tried several in the past and found the same issues.


I'm not looking for perfection especially at this price point but come on is LCD inherently so bad you can't find a few good samples?


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21074050
> 
> 
> Admittedly I'm somewhat _picky_ but has anyone found any of these LCD projectors that could stand up to a fairly high-level of quality control? I have tried various brands (not picking on Epson per se) in the past and I have just now tested two 8350s.
> 
> 
> #1 - With white text Red was out of alignment a pixel + towards the right and close to a pixel on top. The built-in menu was far too out of focus to be acceptable.
> 
> 
> #2 - Alignment was within one pixel across all colors and looked fairly good. However as soon as I ran through my color fields test patterns I noticed the lower right-hand corner image had several green/blue areas of clouds a foot or more across and several inches high. I also noticed them while viewing TiVo so it's not just a test pattern thing. They didn't jump out at you but once they were spotted you couldn't help but see them.
> 
> 
> Both are going back and I guess I'm willing to try another but honestly between pixel alignment and color uniformity (#2 also had a red cast on the upper image and green cast on the lower image - not bad enough to reject) it seems rather fruitless. Even more so as again I have tried several in the past and found the same issues.
> 
> 
> I'm not looking for perfection especially at this price point but come on is LCD inherently so bad you can't find a few good samples?



The trouble is once you return one unit, you're placed on some kind of replacement loop that draws on a pool of refurb units, presumably from other returns. QC for refurb appears to be a lower standard than factory specs, giving rise to the perception that Epson's QC is bad overall. Unfortunately for Epson's replacement policy, statistically one bad unit is the gateway to receiving even more bad units...until you strike a good one, that is.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21074165
> 
> 
> The trouble is once you return one unit, you're placed on some kind of replacement loop that draws on a pool of refurb units, presumably from other returns. QC for refurb appears to be a lower standard than factory specs, giving rise to the perception that Epson's QC is bad overall.



Fortunately or unfortunately, these have always been brand new units I have tested over the years. Now I will say the low price of the Epson almost makes playing Russian roulette plausible. At the same time shipping a one-day old projector and receiving whatnot in return doesn't sound ideal. I still think they should rate each unit and charge a premium for units above a certain standard... the Elite series for x amount more. Of course that takes for granted they exist.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21074050
> 
> 
> Admittedly I'm somewhat _picky_ but has anyone found any of these LCD projectors that could stand up to a fairly high-level of quality control? I have tried various brands (not picking on Epson per se) in the past and I have just now tested two 8350s.
> 
> 
> #1 - With white text Red was out of alignment a pixel + towards the right and close to a pixel on top. The built-in menu was far too out of focus to be acceptable.
> 
> 
> #2 - Alignment was within one pixel across all colors and looked fairly good. However as soon as I ran through my color fields test patterns I noticed the lower right-hand corner image had several green/blue areas of clouds a foot or more across and several inches high. I also noticed them while viewing TiVo so it's not just a test pattern thing. They didn't jump out at you but once they were spotted you couldn't help but see them.
> 
> 
> Both are going back and I guess I'm willing to try another but honestly between pixel alignment and color uniformity (#2 also had a red cast on the upper image and green cast on the lower image - not bad enough to reject) it seems rather fruitless. Even more so as again I have tried several in the past and found the same issues.
> 
> 
> I'm not looking for perfection especially at this price point but come on is LCD inherently so bad you can't find a few good samples?



You say you're not looking for perfection but your very statement says otherwise.


I doubt you will find a perfectly aligned 8350.

I have read people post that they have one but guess what, they have not posted a close up screen shot of the pixels to prove other wise.


I personally went through 4 8350's in several weeks thanks to BB return policy. None had perfect alignment but at 10 feet away and 117", the PQ still looks sharp and clear. If I get right up to the screen, yes, I can see pixel misalignment but it doesn't affect the PQ at my viewing distance/screen size.


Also, all 4 of my units, from 3 different BB stores had a red haze in the lower right and upper left corner.

Speculation is this may have to do with my projector placement and the amount of lens shift used. *500+ hours later, it's still there.

It's only visible/noticeable during completely black scenes where the corners are black/dark and it lasts 10-20 seconds and my eyes adjust and I start LOOKING for it and find it.

No one else who's been in my HT have even notice it even after I've pointed it out unless they get 1-2 feet from the screen and stare.










I "settled" for the 8350 because of the price, my viewing distance and screen size, the PQ looks great. I'm sure if I spent more money, I could find perfection but probably not noticeable/beneficial at my viewing distance.


Anyway, my advice is that if you are looking for close to perfection projector, I would spend more money and find something else.


*Keep in mind that the 8350 fan noise is very quiet(probably one of the quietest fans out there) and other projectors that may have slightly better PQ and cost more money but may have louder fans or even light leaks to get better PQ(perfection). Just keep all your requirements for "perfection" in check when picking a projector.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21074837
> 
> 
> You say you're not looking for perfection but your very statement says otherwise.
> 
> 
> I doubt you will find a perfectly aligned 8350.



I've had several that fit the description. So it's not unheard of.



> Quote:
> Anyway, my advice is that if you are looking for close to perfection projector, I would spend more money and find something else.



And...it's problematical that that's even possible. $10k+ PJs have issues too. and QC & CS on them isn't always relative to the amount spent. JVC PJs, considered a big cut above the Epsons, are rife with lamp and software issues...and although for the most part JVC is trying to placate disgruntled owners, in reality they are just applying band-aids to hurts, not solving issues.



> Quote:
> *Keep in mind that the 8350 fan noise is very quiet(probably one of the quietest fans out there) and other projectors that may have slightly better PQ and cost more money but may have louder fans or even light leaks to get better PQ(perfection). Just keep all your requirements for "perfection" in check when picking a projector.



......and yet you sometimes "hear" from those with exceptional hearing how loud the Fan is. These people haven't a clue as to what was the excepted standard for Fan noise 4-5 years ago when a "high end" 720p with just 1100 lumens required a fan that blasted out at 32+db on economy!


Well, any popular PJ, one that has sold to as many people as the 8350 has is bound to get press, good and bad, on a forum as well known and as frequented as AVS. One only has to look to see that this Thread was the fastest growing thread in AVS History, with over 660,000 views and almost 5500 replies in just barely over 1 year.


One cannot but realize that even with those numbers, the traffic represents only a fraction of the 8350 end users. How many are happy campers, and how many are not is almost assuredly not tied to the number of complainants on this thread. basically speaking, when there is a forum to express either complaints or satisfaction, those who want to avail themselves of such will. And it's no stretch to realize that the complainants are usually the most vocal of all.


Who can blame 'em? I certainly would not. But a bit of jurisprudence regarding the laws of chance should be considered before labeling any product a failure based on a relatively very small number of complaints compared to the many tens of thousands of units sold.


I've installed several $3000.00+ JVC units as of late, and I'll tell you this; I'm far more PO'd at what I and others have had to deal with on those units that anything remotely comparable to the 8350. As such...I WILL NOT recommend those PJs anymore until the QC and lamp issues are resolved.


42Plasmaman is stating common sense. I know common sense can fall by the wayside when one is PO'd....happens to us all in fits of PO'd-ness.

But when such happens, there will always be the voice of reason waiting to present the opposite side of the metaphorical coin.


I has spoken.









(...if that even matters...)


----------



## kaisergrendel

Perhaps it would serve objectivity for the people with good or perfect convergence to post pictures of it? I've gone through the last 120 or so pages and I don't recall seeing even one.


----------



## JP

I just purchased an 8350 yesterday. I'm very happy with the image and impressed. However, there is a pronounced burning smell coming from the unit (no smoke or overheating...yet). Did many of you notice the same thing when you first started using this projector?


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21075198
> 
> 
> I just purchased an 8350 yesterday. I'm very happy with the image and impressed. However, there is a pronounced burning smell coming from the unit (no smoke or overheating...yet). Did many of you notice the same thing when you first started using this projector?



There was a post awhile back regarding a burning smell as well. According to the owner, it got worse and then it disappeared. No other problems.


----------



## JP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21075229
> 
> 
> There was a post awhile back regarding a burning smell as well. According to the owner, it got worse and then it disappeared. No other problems.



Thanks, I saw that as well, however, I'm trying to understand whether the majority of owners are seeing (smelling) this when they are new. That was only one person.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21075132
> 
> 
> Perhaps it would serve objectivity for the people with good or perfect convergence to post pictures of it? I've gone through the last 120 or so pages and I don't recall seeing even one.




It would indeed, but the reality is that those who have no complaints (...or do not know they might....) are seldom interested in the "back & forth", being wholly absorbed in what they see as an incredible experience, while those with even dull axes to grind....they grind away.


You DO see plenty of expressions of satisfaction though...just not many who wax redundant trying to prove to others that their display is a whole, great big pixel out of alignment.


T'is the order of things.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21075247
> 
> 
> Thanks, I saw that as well, however, I'm trying to understand whether the majority of owners are seeing (smelling) this when they are new. That was only one person.



18 units installed and as of yet I never have experienced that happening.


It was probably a overdone solder joint on the Power Supply that left behind some Flux that had to carbonize and burn off. If it was a signal of an impending problem, things would not have gotten better...only worse.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21074837
> 
> 
> I doubt you will find a perfectly aligned 8350.



I doubt it as well.



> Quote:
> I have read people post that they have one but guess what, they have not posted a close up screen shot of the pixels to prove other wise.



Even if the alignment is good other items like color uniformity can make the unit go downhill quickly.



> Quote:
> Anyway, my advice is that if you are looking for close to perfection projector, I would spend more money and find something else.



Sadly price has very little do with it. There is zero chance the high-end Epson (on average) will have better QC... at least on the dozen or so units I have viewed. Except for a new model featuring panel alignment? I have owned projectors since 2002 and spent over 15k in the past. They all are subject to the same issues however LCD tends to over perform. Spending less just makes it less painful.



> Quote:
> *Keep in mind that the 8350 fan noise is very quiet(probably one of the quietest fans out there) and other projectors that may have slightly better PQ and cost more money but may have louder fans or even light leaks to get better PQ(perfection).



Actually, the Sony and Mits are dramatically quieter.... JVC I believe as well although it's been a while since I have had one in house.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21075247
> 
> 
> Thanks, I saw that as well, however, I'm trying to understand whether the majority of owners are seeing (smelling) this when they are new. That was only one person.



This is purely a guess, but I wager it's roughly the smell you get from a fresh halogen worklight. Just the new materials off-gassing, then largely eases off then plateaus in intensity after awhile.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21075368
> 
> 
> It would indeed, but the reality is that those who have no complaints (...or do not know they might....) are seldom interested in the "back & forth", being wholly absorbed in what they see as an incredible experience, while those with even dull axes to grind....they grind away.
> 
> 
> You DO see plenty of expressions of satisfaction though...just not many who wax redundant trying to prove to others that their display is a whole, great big pixel out of alignment.
> 
> 
> T'is the order of things.



I know exactly what you mean. I just find it hard to believe nobody has done it in over 5000 posts. (granted the first few dozen pages were before release)


The Adorama order I placed for 8350 and some other accessories was left on "pending" for two days. Now they're off for the Sukkot holidays and I won't be getting it for AT LEAST another 2 weeks. You have my word that if I get a unit with good convergence, I will be posting pictures of it.


----------



## michaelv

Hi,

I just bought Epson 8350 for a week. My family really enjoy it, especially the kids. Right now i put it on a stand behind the couch. I want put it up the ceiling. One problem: to line up the PJ in the middle of screen, the mount will be between 2 wood joint (basement is already finished).


Does anyone know any idea to properly mount the projector? mounting to drywall is a NO. I'm looking at some sort of adapter with professional look to create a bridge between 2 wood beams and connect pj base to it.


Thanks in advance.


Note: Another problem is running power line to the ceiling. Otherwise, i have to flush mount the raceway along the wall (which looks not neat).


----------



## JOplinger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21075198
> 
> 
> I just purchased an 8350 yesterday. I'm very happy with the image and impressed. However, there is a pronounced burning smell coming from the unit (no smoke or overheating...yet). Did many of you notice the same thing when you first started using this projector?



Just got mine on Tuesday and noticed the same thing. Either I get used to it or it goes away after about 15 minutes of usage, but it's there again when I start it up the next time.


----------



## michaelv

same here. If i go up stair for a while and come back, i will smell it again,but after a few minutes watching...no smell







I guess it's normal.


----------



## JP

Thanks everyone. Just having a few people chime in that they have smelled the same thing makes me feel more comfortable.


----------



## JP

I've only put two hours on my new 8350, but I thought I would chime in with a few of my own comments. First, I'm a long-time home theater buff and owned numerous projectors. About 5 years ago I purchased a Sanyo PLV-70. It puts out 2200 lumens and when calibrated that drops down to probably around 1500 lumens. I got a good deal on it, but street price at that time was $5500. I find it pretty astonishing you can fast forward maybe 4 years (when did the 8350 come out again?) and have a ~$1,000 projector that beats it. My constant concern around purchasing a new projector was whether with calibration my new projector could equal the same amount of light coming from the Sanyo PLV-70. I can safely say now that it gets close to it. The PLV-70 is still probably a little brighter, but using Living Room or Dynamic Mode gets it close enough and offers considerable more detail because of the panels and 1920x1080 native resolution. At the moment I couldn't be more pleased and have to wonder whether the $3,000 + street price projectors are really giving you an image that is worth the extra money.


----------



## DIONJAMES

I read several pages but I cant find how to tell if the 8350 I purchased a couple of days ago has good alignment and color uniformity. Also how do you check the convergence? I basically was trying to find out if the one I got was ok or not. I have a certain amount of days that I could return for a different one so I just need to verify that mine is ok. The picture looks good although I have never had a projector before so I have nothing to compare it to.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21076774
> 
> 
> I read several pages but I cant find how to tell if the 8350 I purchased a couple of days ago has good alignment and color uniformity. Also how do you check the convergence? I basically was trying to find out if the one I got was ok or not. I have a certain amount of days that I could return for a different one so I just need to verify that mine is ok. The picture looks good although I have never had a projector before so I have nothing to compare it to.



If the PQ looks good to you, I'm not sure if you want to play the "perfection game."


An LCD color/panel/pixel out of alignment 1 to 1.5 pixels is probably acceptable.

You only notice this if you get your face inches from the screen.

At normal viewing distance, you won't see it and probably not even know it's there.


If the PQ looks HD and sharp to you, I wouldn't obsess over it.

Given enough time, people can find flaws/issues with $10,000 DLP projectors.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21009591 


.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DIONJAMES* /forum/post/21076774
> 
> 
> I read several pages but I cant find how to tell if the 8350 I purchased a couple of days ago has good alignment and color uniformity. Also how do you check the convergence?



I would recommend the following...
Display the built-in test pattern and check the focus in each of the corners. You should be able to see the pixel outline. Be sure to zoom in the image so you can see all of the pixels.
Display the projector's menu and highlight a menu option until you get white text. Check the panel alignment of each color.
Display Grayscale 0-100 IRE. This will check for color uniformity, bad pixels, etc.
Display each of the primary colors. This will also check color uniformity, shading, etc.

For the last two you can download free test patterns via AVS or use a calibration disk. Don't think what you find here won't show up in everyday content because it will... often after your _easy_ return period. The last one I checked I didn't notice the blue/green clouds in the lower outside corner until I displayed the color fields. Once I saw them I could see it very visibly in my TiVo content. If I hadn't checked I might have simply thought the tan area had streaks through it.


There is a lot more you can do but within a few minutes the above will let you know if it's got a chance.







Link to free very nice test patterns...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12373254


----------



## PRLJAMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21077205
> 
> 
> I would recommend the following...
> Display the built-in test pattern and check the focus in each of the corners. You should be able to see the pixel outline. Be sure to zoom in the image so you can see all of the pixels.
> Display the projector's menu and highlight a menu option until you get white text. Check the panel alignment of each color.
> Display Grayscale 0-100 IRE. This will check for color uniformity, bad pixels, etc.
> Display each of the primary colors. This will also check color uniformity, shading, etc.
> 
> For the last two you can download free test patterns via AVS or use a calibration disk. Don't think what you find here won't show up in everyday content because it will... often after your _easy_ return period. The last one I checked I didn't notice the blue/green clouds in the lower outside corner until I displayed the color fields. Once I saw them I could see it very visibly in my TiVo content. If I hadn't checked I might have simply thought the tan area had streaks through it.
> 
> 
> There is a lot more you can do but within a few minutes the above will let you know if it's got a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to free very nice test patterns...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12373254



I notice on my test pattern that the big circle is a very jagged line and not uniform at all like the straight lines of the big grid. Is this a problem. I don't notice any color variations on the edges of the lines so that sounds good.


----------



## Lindros88

There's something I'm confused about. I searched this thread and found an answer that left me with another question. Someone stated that using cinema mode versus living room mode has no effect on bulb life. How is that possible if living room mode uses more lumens than cinema mode?


----------



## jrwhite

@PRLJAMR - the 'jaggie' look of the test pattern is normal. If you don't see colour separation on the lines, you're good.


@Lindros88 - cinema mode engages a filter into the light path that optically balances the UHP lamps natural colour imbalance .. and thus decreases lumens. Livingroom mode disengages the filter. It's only the Normal / Econo setting for the lamp itself that affects the lamp life. Normal / Econo is available in all modes on the 8350.


Jonathan


----------



## PRLJAMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/21078357
> 
> 
> @PRLJAMR - the 'jaggie' look of the test pattern is normal. If you don't see colour separation on the lines, you're good.
> 
> 
> @Lindros88 - cinema mode engages a filter into the light path that optically balances the UHP lamps natural colour imbalance .. and thus decreases lumens. Livingroom mode disengages the filter. It's only the Normal / Econo setting for the lamp itself that affects the lamp life. Normal / Econo is available in all modes on the 8350.
> 
> 
> Jonathan



Thanks JR. I only have a few hours on the machine and am pleased with the overall performance and function. I have only owned DLP until now so am getting used to the differences. Good to know about the color modes not effecting lamp life becuase dynamic mode is seriously bright.


----------



## Mikes2cents

My 8350 stunk for about a week and had me concerned. It goes away. The circle pattern is a bit jagged for whatever reason but is considered normal. What you are looking for is convergence issues which can be seen on certain patterns or text and is well documented on this thread with pics. Mine is not perfect. I figure I have a panel that is off about 1 pixel or so. Now looking at the picture from normal viewing distance you cannot tell but that is the nature of 3LCD PJs. Without test screens and walking up real close to the screen, it is hard to see. So the picture is quite stunning but it is not perfect. I decided to live with it because the picture at normal viewing distance is very, very good. Too bad that picture is not perfect because test patterns show it is not but with normal viewing you cannot detect it. Since I know it is there that bothers me but I kept the unit because it makes a gorgeous picture at my normal viewing distance and the lens shift at this price is not to be dismissed. Just try to find a lens shift PJ with this kind of PQ at this price range. Epson nailed this one. Too bad they forgot what sold this one when they went 3d. They have decided to go head to head with DLP for 3d without lens shift and the lens shift would make the new Epson a killer even for a bit more money. Bad Call, the lens shift model is way more expensive and competing with other units that have shift. But I digress.


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/21078357
> 
> 
> @PRLJAMR - the 'jaggie' look of the test pattern is normal. If you don't see colour separation on the lines, you're good.
> 
> 
> @Lindros88 - cinema mode engages a filter into the light path that optically balances the UHP lamps natural colour imbalance .. and thus decreases lumens. Livingroom mode disengages the filter. It's only the Normal / Econo setting for the lamp itself that affects the lamp life. Normal / Econo is available in all modes on the 8350.
> 
> 
> Jonathan



Thanks. This thoroughly answers my question. When I read that living room and dynamic had a higher lumen output than cinema, it seemed impossible that they wouldn't have any impact on bulb longevity. Now I think I understand why. Essentially the projector is always producing the maximum amount of lumens internally. The color modes serve as presets to determine just how many of those lumens you wish to output at a time, though the lumens not being utilized are simply being blocked rather than "turned off".


----------



## frogpond1

@Mississippiman I whole heartedly agree with the whole ax to grind stance. Some reviewers just don't seem to give anything a chance and will dump on any little problem no matter the problem. I see this in some of the 8350 1 and 2 star reviews over at Amazon.


Ok its not time yet but anybody know how good the projector lamp people are that advertise here. With the z4 we had we were going to Electrified.com but I've been reading some horror stories about them regarding the 8350 lamp and I am not sure I want to go back.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21076631
> 
> 
> I've only put two hours on my new 8350, but I thought I would chime in with a few of my own comments. First, I'm a long-time home theater buff and owned numerous projectors. About 5 years ago I purchased a Sanyo PLV-70. It puts out 2200 lumens and when calibrated that drops down to probably around 1500 lumens. I got a good deal on it, but street price at that time was $5500. I find it pretty astonishing you can fast forward maybe 4 years (when did the 8350 come out again?) and have a ~$1,000 projector that beats it. My constant concern around purchasing a new projector was whether with calibration my new projector could equal the same amount of light coming from the Sanyo PLV-70. I can safely say now that it gets close to it. The PLV-70 is still probably a little brighter, but using Living Room or Dynamic Mode gets it close enough and offers considerable more detail because of the panels and 1920x1080 native resolution. At the moment I couldn't be more pleased and have to wonder whether the $3,000 + street price projectors are really giving you an image that is worth the extra money.




I totally agree with your thesis; I've spent absorbent amounts of money over the last three decades on high-end projectors that weren't able to match the quality of Epson's model 8350. Projector technology has certainly made a huge leap in the last couple of years, and one can now enjoy top picture quality at an extremely affordable price.


The performance of the 8350 impressed me so much that I couldn't help myself from stepping up to the 8700. IMO, both projectors do a stellar job, especially at their price points.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21079153
> 
> 
> @Mississippiman I whole heartedly agree with the whole ax to grind stance. Some reviewers just don't seem to give anything a chance and will dump on any little problem no matter the problem. I see this in some of the 8350 1 and 2 star reviews over at Amazon.



I had a good laugh at some of these reviews:


2 stars


> Quote:
> This supposed to be the best in the price range. The trouble is it does not have the key-stone adjustment for the lens. It means if you have a little tricky installation situation like we have, it does not work. Only good when the screen and the projector is located relatively parallel . We had to return it.



1 star


> Quote:
> Bulb burned out after 4 months, I didn't even watch it that much. The warranty is 90 days so I'm screwed. I owned A Panasonic before this and had it for 5 years, the bulb was still working. I will never buy another Epson anything...EVER


----------



## frogpond1

Yeah those two were some of my favorite. I even wrote a reply saying that they could've actually gotten a replacement bulb for free...if they had even tried to call Epson.


----------



## michaelv

I decide to go with Chief RPA 168. However, i look all over websites, but have no idea what's coming with the mount. The only piece i see is like this
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Projector.html 


Do i need to buy anything else beside this or it will come a a package (mount, screw...etc..). I will need 13" extension tube by the way.


Thanks.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21080827
> 
> 
> I decide to go with Chief RPA 168. However, i look all over websites, but have no idea what's coming with the mount. The only piece i see is like this
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Projector.html
> 
> 
> Do i need to buy anything else beside this or it will come a a package (mount, screw...etc..). I will need 13" extension tube by the way.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Go back in this thread to pages 179-181. You can use Chief add-on parts or it looks like generic parts from HomeDepot also work.


I think that mount comes packaged different ways. Check with vendor or just wait for it to arrive (to see what was included).


----------



## michaelv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21080936
> 
> 
> Go back in this thread to pages 179-181. You can use Chief add-on parts or it looks like generic parts from HomeDepot also work.
> 
> 
> I think that mount comes packaged different ways. Check with vendor or just wait for it to arrive (to see what was included).



Ok, thanks . i'll look

This is what i see from buy.com

Package Contents


RPA168 Inverted Custom Projector Mount

1 x Bracket, Ceiling

1 x Bracket, Joint

1 x Plate, Adjustment

12 x Screw, Self-Tapping, Pan Head, 10-24 X 1/2", with washer

1 x Screw, Set, 5/16"

1 x Interface Bracket

4 x Screw, Philips Pan Head, Machine, (M4 x 8mm)

4 x (10-24) Thumb Nuts

4 x Washer, Flat, M4

1 x All-Points Security Kit

Allen Wrench

Security Allen Wrench


----------



## JP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21080827
> 
> 
> I decide to go with Chief RPA 168. However, i look all over websites, but have no idea what's coming with the mount. The only piece i see is like this
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Projector.html
> 
> 
> Do i need to buy anything else beside this or it will come a a package (mount, screw...etc..). I will need 13" extension tube by the way.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yea, Chief really makes you pay for getting a high quality product. I hate to tell you this, but I'm pretty sure that is only a portion of what you'll need if you stay with Chief. You'll need a ceiling plate, an extension rod, AND a bracket that attaches the projector to the piece you have reflected. As another poster mentioned you may be able to get some of these parts like the extension and the ceiling plate from Home Depot, but I haven't tried.


I think if you do want to stay with Chief for the 8350 you would be better off buying something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824999259 


I think this is all you would need if you didn't have the need for an extension rod. Again, if you need an extension you have to buy the rod. Something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824999311 


and then a ceiling bracket, maybe like this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._CMA101_5.html


----------



## JP

By the way, I'm in the same boat as you looking for a mount. I actually have a chief mount now, but it isn't the universal kind so it won't fit with the 8350. I live in Houston and just ran across the following mount:

http://www.directron.com/pm40.html 


Since they were local I went by and picked it up. It is actually more robust than the picture would lead you to believe. No where near Chief quality, but I thought for ~$25 I would give it a try. I'm a little skeptical whether it will even fit, but once I find some time tomorrow to give it a try I'll see how stable it feels. I'll pass on my thoughts around how well it works and its stability. I'll post the results here if you are curious.


----------



## forkdeath

I have notice in the last few days while watching the light output is flickering. For example it all of a sudden it gets a little brighter, or a little dimmer, kind of like auto iris but I keep that turned off and it does not do it when you would expect the auto iris to kick in. It is doing this pretty often and is distracting. My wife has watched and not noticed (And I am not telling her). I browsed the setting but do not see anything that would cause this. Any ideas?


----------



## mcnizzel

what do you guys think about this unit's portability? I mean I'm aware of the size and all, but should I be worried about damaging it or misaligning the lcd panels or damaging the lamp from moving it? I would like to take it from room to room in the house on occasion, or to a buddy's house, but not if it would jeopardize the longevity of my PJ. This is ofcourse assuming I don't do anything overtly dumb like drop it, set it on its lense, etc. etc.


----------



## spartangtr

Quick question:


I've noticed after 3-4 months that there's a bit of dust build up on the lens itself. I haven't noticed it in the picture though. What kind of maintenance needs to be done on this projector and how often?


I've racked up a ton of hours in this time frame though, it's right around 1000 hours. If I wanted to clean the lens, what should I use? Or do I really need to?


----------



## andrios




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spartangtr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 
> I've noticed after 3-4 months that there's a bit of dust build up on the lens itself. I haven't noticed it in the picture though. What kind of maintenance needs to be done on this projector and how often?
> 
> 
> I've racked up a ton of hours in this time frame though, it's right around 1000 hours. If I wanted to clean the lens, what should I use? Or do I really need to?



Same here man, got over 1000 hours on bulb and I do see the dust on lens. I don't think it's affecting my picture at all.


I have done nothing in terms of maintenance on the projector. Should I at least take filter and clean it up??


Solid projector IMO!


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/21082129
> 
> 
> what do you guys think about this unit's portability? I mean I'm aware of the size and all, but should I be worried about damaging it or misaligning the lcd panels or damaging the lamp from moving it? I would like to take it from room to room in the house on occasion, or to a buddy's house, but not if it would jeopardize the longevity of my PJ. This is ofcourse assuming I don't do anything overtly dumb like drop it, set it on its lense, etc. etc.



I wouldn't worry about it. Just don't bang it around.


Remember...to ceiling mount it, you have to flip it upside down, so moving it around is really no big deal. The more gently you treat it, all the better.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *forkdeath* /forum/post/21081955
> 
> 
> I have notice in the last few days while watching the light output is flickering. For example it all of a sudden it gets a little brighter, or a little dimmer, kind of like auto iris but I keep that turned off and it does not do it when you would expect the auto iris to kick in. It is doing this pretty often and is distracting. My wife has watched and not noticed (And I am not telling her). I browsed the setting but do not see anything that would cause this. Any ideas?



I believe I have seen this issue posted about several times. Seems the solution was to run the bulb in the high setting for about 2-3 hours and it should work normally in Eco mode. Now if you are running in standard/high mode, then you may have a problem and should contact Epson.


----------



## michaelv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21081304
> 
> 
> Yea, Chief really makes you pay for getting a high quality product. I hate to tell you this, but I'm pretty sure that is only a portion of what you'll need if you stay with Chief. You'll need a ceiling plate, an extension rod, AND a bracket that attaches the projector to the piece you have reflected. As another poster mentioned you may be able to get some of these parts like the extension and the ceiling plate from Home Depot, but I haven't tried.
> 
> 
> I think if you do want to stay with Chief for the 8350 you would be better off buying something like this:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824999259
> 
> 
> I think this is all you would need if you didn't have the need for an extension rod. Again, if you need an extension you have to buy the rod. Something like this:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824999311
> 
> 
> and then a ceiling bracket, maybe like this one:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._CMA101_5.html



I am not a handyman, so i wouldn't mind spend a little extra to get it done. RPAU looks like the one i need as long as it works for Epson 8350.


Yes, i will need extension rod 13" from ceiling. I guess, when i get the mount, i'll bring it to local Homedepot to get it cut and thread.


Ceiling plate from Peerless is a nice one too.


I originally want to get something like this
http://www.mountdirect.com/NPL_Proje...ount_p/npl.htm 


This is my first projector and i'm excited about it, but i didn't know that there are so many mount outthere..










Thanks for advising.


----------



## jrwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21082560
> 
> 
> I believe I have seen this issue posted about several times. Seems the solution was to run the bulb in the high setting for about 2-3 hours and it should work normally in Eco mode. Now if you are running in standard/high mode, then you may have a problem and should contact Epson.



In my experience, you need to switch modes for about 8 to 10 hours. It also works both ways, if you're seeing the problem in high lamp mode, switching to econo for 8 to 10 hours of use will also usually cure the flicker. I've had experience with both conditions.


Jonathan


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *forkdeath* /forum/post/21081955
> 
> 
> I have notice in the last few days while watching the light output is flickering. For example it all of a sudden it gets a little brighter, or a little dimmer, kind of like auto iris but I keep that turned off and it does not do it when you would expect the auto iris to kick in. It is doing this pretty often and is distracting. My wife has watched and not noticed (And I am not telling her). I browsed the setting but do not see anything that would cause this. Any ideas?



Someone on this thread said it happens around the 800 hour mark if set to Eco mode (I've seen many report it happening around 1000 hours too) where due to the lamp's natural ageing process, an environment conducive to random arcing is created. Changing to Normal mode for a few hours seems to smooth out this transition, after which you can go back to Eco mode.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spartangtr* /forum/post/21082183
> 
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 
> I've noticed after 3-4 months that there's a bit of dust build up on the lens itself. I haven't noticed it in the picture though. What kind of maintenance needs to be done on this projector and how often?
> 
> 
> I've racked up a ton of hours in this time frame though, it's right around 1000 hours. If I wanted to clean the lens, what should I use? Or do I really need to?



The same stuff you would use to clean camera lenses. Cleaning solution and microfibre cloth/lens cleaning tissues available from any camera store. Make sure they're ammonia free as it has a reputation of harming lens coatings. Blow the lens with a compressed air can or blower to remove any loose dust first. If it looks clean after that, you can skip the wiping. A little bit of dust on the lens won't noticeably degrade the image. Wet wiping is for removing anything that doesn't come off with blowing, like stuck-on dust and grease.


----------



## forkdeath




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21082560
> 
> 
> I believe I have seen this issue posted about several times. Seems the solution was to run the bulb in the high setting for about 2-3 hours and it should work normally in Eco mode. Now if you are running in standard/high mode, then you may have a problem and should contact Epson.



Thanks! Yes, I am just about always in eco mode. I will crank it up for a few hours.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/21082588
> 
> 
> In my experience, you need to switch modes for about 8 to 10 hours. It also works both ways, if you're seeing the problem in high lamp mode, switching to econo for 8 to 10 hours of use will also usually cure the flicker. I've had experience with both conditions.
> 
> 
> Jonathan



That kind of makes sense to me and worth a try. What does not make sense is why none of these manufacturers do not go LED at an affordable price. This is not new science and it works, You could have a PJ for the next 3-10 years this way. The tech is there but seems nobody wants to partner with Luminous for this for some reason. *Perhaps long lived PJs hurt the bottom line*. Example, my LED RP DLP Samsung looks as good as the day I got it, while the Mits RP DLP my niece bought shortly thereafter is on it's second bulb. I can assure you my DLP has twice the hours of her unit.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21082824
> 
> 
> That kind of makes sense to me and worth a try. What does not make sense is why none of these manufacturers do not go LED at an affordable price. This is not new science and it works, You could have a PJ for the next 3-10 years this way. The tech is there but seems nobody wants to partner with Luminous for this for some reason. *Perhaps long lived PJs hurt the bottom line*. Example, my LED RP DLP Samsung looks as good as the day I got it, while the Mits RP DLP my niece bought shortly thereafter is on it's second bulb. I can assure you my DLP has twice the hours of her unit.



Might as well persuade Epson to sell inkless printers, hah!


----------



## Staffy

FYI, I am in the same mount boat... I have called Chief and verified, the correct adapter plate for the RPA universal mount is the *SLB168*.


J


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21082567
> 
> 
> I am not a handyman, so i wouldn't mind spend a little extra to get it done. RPAU looks like the one i need as long as it works for Epson 8350.



You want the RPA168 not RPAU. The RPA168 comes with a custom mounting plate that fits the 8350 perfectly. You will also need a threaded extension and ceiling plate.


----------



## JP

As I mentioned earlier, I would post a brief review about a ridiculously inexpensive Bytecc (who?) projector mount I picked up locally. I wasn't even sure if I would use it because I thought I might run in to some kind of issue somewhere. I was sort of surprised that I didn't. First, here is where I bought it:

http://www.directron.com/pm40.html 


It is made of some pretty strong metal and more robust than the pictures might lead you to believe. However, it is by no means Chief quality. I have a Chief mount as well, but once I looked in to the cost to upgrade the mount it would have cost me another ~$150. Also, the projector I had previously was very heavy and really required a Chief mount. I just bought the 8350 and it was no where near as heavy so I thought I might be able to get away with a mount that really didn't require Chief quality.


I just paid $899 for the 8350 so also it seemed like a pretty big part of the overall budget if I had to invest a large fraction of it on just the mount. Right or wrong, that was my thinking. My point is that you really can't go wrong with Chief mounts, but you certainly pay for it. The Bytecc mount wasn't 1/2 or 1/3 of what a Chief mount might cost, but literally about 1/10. That is pretty big difference.


Again, installation went surprisingly smooth. The mount has a number of adjustments to help you get the picture squared up and balanced. The lens shift on the 8350 naturally doesn't hurt either. The bracket that attaches directly to the projector has to be shifted some for it to work because the arms are too short, not a big deal, and it may be designed for it to fit this way.


As you'll see from the attached images it has a nice extension arm and allows you some vertical flexibility there. Do the Chief mounts have more flexibility? Yes. They have pitch, yaw, and just about any direction you can dream up. So the Bytecc falls only slightly short of Chief here, but once you tighten everything down it is fairly rigid. I have a number of places where vibrations could translate in to the mount and to the projector image such as an A/C unit right about it and a fan no less than 4 feet away, but none of it disturbs the image in the same way the Chief mount performed.


Ultimately, if you are on a strict budget then this Bytecc mount may be worth considering especially if you need the extension arm. If you need flush-mount then look elsewhere. Some of the attached pics might give you a better representation of what the mount is like. Hopefully, it helps someone.


One final parting comment about the Epson 8350 projector itself. I am kicking myself some for waiting this long to pick one up. I finally got an opportunity to really put it through its paces and coming from a $5,500 projector years ago I am astonished how good this projector is at this price range. Epson really delivered on this one. The detail is exceptional and I haven't even bothered to check convergence. I'm just happy with it as-is.


Far and away the feature that impresses me most that Epson did with this unit is the different color modes. I have some ambient light that comes in to my home theater during the day. Snap, I switch to Living Room mode and life is good. The image pops off the screen for sports and anything else I'm doing during the day. Move to the night where everything is naturally pitch dark and now the image is too bright and overexposed. Snap two, switch to Cinema Mode and all the detail you would hope for is there. I'm sure I could fine adjust each, but for the moment I'm in awe of just how good these modes are out of the box.


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spartangtr* /forum/post/21082183
> 
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 
> I've noticed after 3-4 months that there's a bit of dust build up on the lens itself. I haven't noticed it in the picture though. What kind of maintenance needs to be done on this projector and how often?
> 
> 
> I've racked up a ton of hours in this time frame though, it's right around 1000 hours. If I wanted to clean the lens, what should I use? Or do I really need to?



Here is what I use:


For easy maintenance:

http://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900...PI/ref=lh_ni_t 


For fingerprints, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-7072-Len...xgy_01_02_t_lh


----------



## Rgb

Just a heads up for you guys looking for a low cost diy mount.


The monkeyman mount has been well regarded for a long time around these parts 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...232749&page=11 


Enjoy


Btw, I received my 8350 Earlier this week. This will be my 7th projector since 1999.


Mits X100 XGA > Sanyo PLV60 > Panny AE700 > Epson HC400 > Epson HC720 > Epson 8350


I'll be putting it through its paces over the next couple of days or weeks.


----------



## lunat1c

I want to thank everyone for making the purchase of this projector a breeze. My HT is now complete. Check out some pictures here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21088551


----------



## jpbledsoe

We've had an 8350 for a few months, using it for PowerPoint slides and video clips from a PC with a DVI output. We're running the HDMI signal from the PC over some Kramer Coax extenders.


If the PC is running and we power up the projector, we have to go into the nVidia control panel and set up the video interface to actually send the DVI/HDMI signal to the projector. Not sure if restarting the PC after powering up the projector would work also.


I don't know if this is a projector issue or a PC issue. We've never had to cycle power on the Kramer boxes (640T/640R) so I don't think they're at fault.


Does anybody have a solution to this very annoying problem?


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## JP

I just purchased an 8350 and I thought the resulting image was just a tad bit soft so I tried to find some convergence test patterns to see if there was an issue. The patterns I tried can be found here:

http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/convergence 


Specifically, I'm curious what others might find using these patterns. In my case I've attached a screenshot of one close up. You can easily see the blue panel is shifted up too much and the red is slightly to the right. For those that have sent projectors back to Epson because of the convergence issue I'm wondering whether what they ended up with was better than what I'm seeing. The resulting image does look good, but I can't help but wonder if I exchanged it for another one whether I could expect an improvement or is this simply the way the 8350's are.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21092969
> 
> 
> I just purchased an 8350 and I thought the resulting image was just a tad bit soft so I tried to find some convergence test patterns to see if there was an issue. The patterns I tried can be found here:
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/convergence
> 
> 
> Specifically, I'm curious what others might find using these patterns. In my case I've attached a screenshot of one close up. You can easily see the blue panel is shifted up too much and the red is slightly to the right. For those that have sent projectors back to Epson because of the convergence issue I'm wondering whether what they ended up with was better than what I'm seeing. The resulting image does look good, but I can't help but wonder if I exchanged it for another one whether I could expect an improvement or is this simply the way the 8350's are.



JP, which part of the screen did this come from? I won't say anything yet but my guess is the top left corner.


----------



## JP

It is in the dead center.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpbledsoe* /forum/post/21090976
> 
> 
> We've had an 8350 for a few months, using it for PowerPoint slides and video clips from a PC with a DVI output. We're running the HDMI signal from the PC over some Kramer Coax extenders.
> 
> 
> If the PC is running and we power up the projector, we have to go into the nVidia control panel and set up the video interface to actually send the DVI/HDMI signal to the projector. Not sure if restarting the PC after powering up the projector would work also.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is a projector issue or a PC issue. We've never had to cycle power on the Kramer boxes (640T/640R) so I don't think they're at fault.
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a solution to this very annoying problem?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



I just switched my HTPC from on-board ATI 3200 to dedicated nVidia 8600 PCIe. If I accidentally turn off the Onkyo amp and then back on, I'm getting "No Signal" at the amp ... I don't remember it ever doing that with the ATI (and it really bothers me). The only way to get the PC video signal back is to reboot or Sleep/Wake the HTPC.


I just bought a dedicated AMD 5670 PCIe to try ... I think it might be an nVidia problem.


I'm using DVI port on PC, to DVI-HDMI adapter, HDMI cable to Onkyo, 4x2 switch, onto displays (8350 and plasma). SPDIF Optical HTPC sound to Onkyo.


----------



## NYMN

JP - just my opinion - That actually looks not too bad. It's a little off, as typical for 3LCD, but there are MUCH worse units out there. If you're happy with the image, enjoy it!!!!


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21093349
> 
> 
> It is in the dead center.



Is it the picture or is the convergence worse at the upper left part?


----------



## JP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21093708
> 
> 
> Is it the picture or is the convergence worse at the upper left part?



The screenshot displays the portion of the screen directly in the middle. Since it is only 1 pixel text it doesn't take up much room at all. The misconvergence appears to be about the same across this small portion of the middle of the screen.


I can do the same test for all the corners as well and what I've found is that the amount of misconvergence is pretty uniform across the whole screen.


The patterns have helped me dial in the focus a tab bit better, which is good, but what I seem to have is an overall red push because of the blue misconvergence. If you go back and look at the screenshot you'll see red is off slightly to the right whereas blue is way off and moved upward. Without the blue being where the pixel is supposed to be the red is more pronounced.


What a crap shoot this is. If I take the projector back and exchange it, I run the risk of getting one that has an issue that is worse than this. If there was only a way to adjust the convergence.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21094271
> 
> 
> The screenshot displays the portion of the screen directly in the middle. Since it is only 1 pixel text it doesn't take up much room at all. The misconvergence appears to be about the same across this small portion of the middle of the screen.
> 
> 
> I can do the same test for all the corners as well and what I've found is that the amount of misconvergence is pretty uniform across the whole screen.
> 
> 
> The patterns have helped me dial in the focus a tab bit better, which is good, but what I seem to have is an overall red push because of the blue misconvergence. If you go back and look at the screenshot you'll see red is off slightly to the right whereas blue is way off and moved upward. Without the blue being where the pixel is supposed to be the red is more pronounced.
> 
> 
> What a crap shoot this is. If I take the projector back and exchange it, I run the risk of getting one that has an issue that is worse than this. If there was only a way to adjust the convergence.



I see, I suspected lens aberration before, but it seems just the panels are not perfectly aligned.


Try to look at your screen from normal viewing distance, if you cannot spot the convergence error from there, then the rays have re-converged to an extent, and you shouldn't worry about image quality. Single pixel text may exhibit a red push, but it's not significant in regular media where regions of are color almost invariably larger than single pixels.


LCD screens are still made with individual pixels composed of adjacent red, green and blue emitters, but rely on distance to "blend" the light into single coherent pixels. Look at one closely enough (or use a magnifying glass if you're far-sighted) and you might see them.


Your convergence looks about 0.5-.75 of a pixel off. I'd say you're actually quite lucky to get one this well aligned. You're almost certain to get a unit with worse convergence if you replace it. If the image is to your liking now, don't waste any more time fretting about this, enjoy your new PJ


----------



## ratfnk5

Any tips on dialing in my settings with my 8350 and my PS3?


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratfnk5* /forum/post/21095034
> 
> 
> Any tips on dialing in my settings with my 8350 and my PS3?



Here's a useful thread (TW3200 - Same as 8350): http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post13648788


----------



## JP

I've heard of Art's calibration settings for the 8350, which I tried. They can be found here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php However, when using this in cinema mode the colors look very bland and weak to me. Do others see the colors as weak and perhaps too saturated or is it just my projector?


----------



## tommyv2

Using someone's calibrations settings is a little bit weird - unless you have the exact same screen and lighting conditions, it's going to be a totally different result. It may be a decent starting point... but...


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/21095227
> 
> 
> Using someone's calibrations settings is a little bit weird - unless you have the exact same screen and lighting conditions, it's going to be a totally different result. It may be a decent starting point... but...



Seconded, the calibration needs to be tailored to the context.


----------



## ncmountie1

Looking at replacing an Optoma HD70 with the Epson. My current ceiling mount is about 14.5 feet from wall and projects approx 100 inches across.


Can anyone tell me if I'll have any problem if I use the same mounting? I understand I'll need different mounting hardware but I want to be able to use the same holes in the studs, etc. Will I be able to get it to fill out the screen I have painted & trimmed on the wall at same distance?


Thnx


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ncmountie1* /forum/post/21095685
> 
> 
> Looking at replacing an Optoma HD70 with the Epson. My current ceiling mount is about 14.5 feet from wall and projects approx 100 inches across.
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if I'll have any problem if I use the same mounting? I understand I'll need different mounting hardware but I want to be able to use the same holes in the studs, etc. Will I be able to get it to fill out the screen I have painted & trimmed on the wall at same distance?
> 
> 
> Thnx



Yes. You'll be somewhere in the middle of the projector's zoom range.

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/


----------



## ncmountie1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21095714
> 
> 
> Yes. You'll be somewhere in the middle of the projector's zoom range.
> 
> http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/



Thank you!


I have an NPL Mount now and have had good luck with it. I am looking at this model for Epson
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm 


My current projector doesn't have an extension rod. Based on this calculator I'm trying to figure if I should have one?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ncmountie1* /forum/post/21095845
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> I have an NPL Mount now and have had good luck with it. I am looking at this model for Epson
> http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm
> 
> 
> My current projector doesn't have an extension rod. Based on this calculator I'm trying to figure if I should have one?



Use the nice Calculator over at Epson.com.


While the Optima DLP used electronic Keystoning, the Epson uses mechanical Lens-Shift. I've found the Epson 8350 to be more forgiving as to placement than the Optima. It seems to be the tech. used (DLP vs 3LCD).


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/21095227
> 
> 
> Using someone's calibrations settings is a little bit weird - unless you have the exact same screen and lighting conditions, it's going to be a totally different result. It may be a decent starting point... but...



I totally agree; spring for Disney's WOW calibration BD and you'll never look back.


----------



## JP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videonut* /forum/post/21096914
> 
> 
> I totally agree; spring for Disney's WOW calibration BD and you'll never look back.



Thanks! I'll certainly buy this and give it a try.


----------



## ratfnk5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a useful thread (TW3200 - Same as 8350): http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post13648788



Thanks! Much appriciated.


----------



## ratfnk5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've heard of Art's calibration settings for the 8350, which I tried. They can be found here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php However, when using this in cinema mode the colors look very bland and weak to me. Do others see the colors as weak and perhaps too saturated or is it just my projector?



Thanks, I will check this out!


----------



## kawie01

Which disc do you believe is better for calibrating the 8350? The Disney WOW or the spears and Munsil? Why?


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21102527
> 
> 
> Which disc do you believe is better for calibrating the 8350? The Disney WOW or the spears and Munsil? Why?



Why not download these for free? Plenty of patterns to keep you busy.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12373254


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21093373
> 
> 
> I just switched my HTPC from on-board ATI 3200 to dedicated nVidia 8600 PCIe. If I accidentally turn off the Onkyo amp and then back on, I'm getting "No Signal" at the amp ... I don't remember it ever doing that with the ATI (and it really bothers me). The only way to get the PC video signal back is to reboot or Sleep/Wake the HTPC.
> 
> 
> I just bought a dedicated AMD 5670 PCIe to try ... I think it might be an nVidia problem.
> 
> 
> I'm using DVI port on PC, to DVI-HDMI adapter, HDMI cable to Onkyo, 4x2 switch, onto displays (8350 and plasma). SPDIF Optical HTPC sound to Onkyo.



Yes, it was the nVidia card and/or nVidia drivers causing the "No Signal" at amp (after AVR power-cycle). The new dedicated ATI-AMD 5670 works great and similar to how the on-board ATI 3200 works. The ATI-AMD cards/drivers are constantly monitoring the presence of a monitor, and react as needed (and keeps Windows informed).


----------



## videonut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21102527
> 
> 
> Which disc do you believe is better for calibrating the 8350? The Disney WOW or the spears and Munsil? Why?



IMO, the Disney WOW disk is superior to the Spears and Munsil disc in terms of consumer friendliness. The test patterns are all set up just right and there are detailed explanations on what your adjusting and why. There are separate levels for the novice or the professional with calibration tools on hand. Both audio and video are addressed in order to reach their full potential.


I realize some may find the disc somewhat expensive, but it's ease of use makes it worth the money in the long run, trust me.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21102572
> 
> 
> Why not download these for free? Plenty of patterns to keep you busy.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12373254




That's just it, some of us rather stay busy by enjoying movies instead of watching endless test patterns. I've yet to see any test pattern that's capable of rooting out speaker vibrations or helping to adjust individual speaker levels.


----------



## vladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videonut* /forum/post/21105444
> 
> 
> That's just it, some of us rather stay busy by enjoying movies instead of watching endless test patterns. I've yet to see any test pattern that's capable of rooting out speaker vibrations or helping to adjust individual speaker levels.



He was responding to a post asking about a calibration disc specifically in regards to the 8350. Last I checked, the 8350 did not have any speakers for which you could adjust the levels.


----------



## mcnizzel

I know a fair amount of you have sent units back to epson under warranty. Could some of you expand on your experiences?

I'm wondering if you have any trouble with the warranty if you're not the original purchaser? like if it was a gift or anything like that?

have any of you had issues where epson can't identify the problem you complained about after you send it in? it says in the manual you'll have to pay for all costs incurred if thats the case.


any other general experiences or comments would be appreciated


----------



## rakstr

Anybody else getting periodic video drops (No Signal displayed) followed by what appears to be an HDMI renegotiation?


----------



## mcnizzel

yes, I swapped an hdmi cord in my setup and haven't seen the problem since. It is entirely possible I have the same problem as you and the cord is a mere coincidence. It was an intermittent issue when I experienced it before, it was hard to duplicate with any regularity. No obvious link to a resolution change, source change, particular input etc. etc.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21106841
> 
> 
> Anybody else getting periodic video drops (No Signal displayed) followed by what appears to be an HDMI renegotiation?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/21106869
> 
> 
> yes, I swapped an hdmi cord in my setup and haven't seen the problem since. It is entirely possible I have the same problem as you and the cord is a mere coincidence. It was an intermittent issue when I experienced it before, it was hard to duplicate with any regularity. No obvious link to a resolution change, source change, particular input etc. etc.



Sounds like signal drop out from bad cabling. I would do what mcnizzel did and change the HDMI cable, preferably to a thicker gauge.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21106841
> 
> 
> Anybody else getting periodic video drops (No Signal displayed) followed by what appears to be an HDMI renegotiation?



No, and I'm using a 45ft HDMI cable ... but it is 22awg (from MonoPrice).


How long is your run and what kind of HDMI cable are you currently using?


----------



## rakstr

Same monoprice cable only 75ft. Have it driven off a monoprice disti amp connected to DTV HR24-100. Have tried two different disti amps and have also used this run for a TV previously without problem. In case you're curious, I ran an RG6 to my receiver in this room for digital coax sound when I changed to the projector. HDMI cable goes from disti amp direct to PJ direct.


----------



## gazzagazza

Anyone know if Frys are still doing the $899 price on this? Is it instore only?


----------



## timrutter23

Fry's in-store is back to $1299. I was able to grab a rain check for the $899 last week, but now they are mysteriously out of stock. I called this afternoon and was told there were two on hand, though when I got there 20 min later they insisted it was 'impossible' anyone would tell me there were any in stock. I'm skeptical I'll be able to pick one up before the 30 day raincheck expires.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21109219
> 
> 
> Same monoprice cable only 75ft. Have it driven off a monoprice disti amp connected to DTV HR24-100. Have tried two different disti amps and have also used this run for a TV previously without problem. In case you're curious, I ran an RG6 to my receiver in this room for digital coax sound when I changed to the projector. HDMI cable goes from disti amp direct to PJ direct.



Anyone know the feasibility of putting two amps on the same run?


----------



## DIONJAMES




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timrutter23* /forum/post/21110879
> 
> 
> Fry's in-store is back to $1299. I was able to grab a rain check for the $899 last week, but now they are mysteriously out of stock. I called this afternoon and was told there were two on hand, though when I got there 20 min later they insisted it was 'impossible' anyone would tell me there were any in stock. I'm skeptical I'll be able to pick one up before the 30 day raincheck expires.



Couldn't you just find a Best Buy or even a Sears nearby to price match like I did?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21111271
> 
> 
> Anyone know the feasibility of putting two amps on the same run?



If the problem is due to inadequacies inherent in the HDMI cable's ability to pass a signal down such a long length, amplification will only "enhance' the video noise. If the cable is 22 gauge - v1.4 rated, the issue is most likely tied to the Amplifier and/or the output signal itself.

*rakstr*

I myself have not found that the signal strength reception of the 8350's HDMI intput is in any way weaker than, or not equal to that of similar machines. (...did you try switching to the other HDMI input?) Was your previous display 1080p?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21111751
> 
> 
> If the problem is due to inadequacies inherent in the HDMI cable's ability to pass a signal down such a long length, amplification will only "enhance' the video noise. If the cable is 22 gauge - v1.4 rated, the issue is most likely tied to the Amplifier and/or the output signal itself.
> 
> *rakstr*
> 
> I myself have not found that the signal strength reception of the 8350's HDMI intput is in any way weaker than, or not equal to that of similar machines. (...did you try switching to the other HDMI input?) Was your previous display 1080p?



Yes, I've tried both inputs.


Funny about the question on two disti amps. I broke down and ordered another HDMI capable receiver so I'll now be reworking the wiring and may have to try amp-amp at this house as well. I really need to get another input setup so I can test out thoroughly for the video drop before my exchange window at Fry's closes. Unfortunately, I'm getting convinced it's the PJ







I found my stand alone ATSC tuner (things really get hidden when you move) and I'll get that hooked up before tonight's Rangers game.


For the other poster, I've done this before at my previous house without issue BUT you need to be careful on over-amplification and all the other issues you have just like when you begin to daisy chain any other devices like when running RG6 for antenna! When I did it before, I had a 50ft run between amps (Monoprice CL2 22g). The Disti Amps were Monoprice HS-104. The specs say this is AOK. I think their math is wrong however on the number of HDMI signals at full deployment (3+3+4=10)









Supports high-resolution video - HDTV resolution of 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p (1920x1080); VGA, SVGA, SXGA, UXGA (1600x1200), WUXGA (1920x1200)

Cascade distance: Source to Device -1.8m,*Device to Device-15m*,Device to Display-20m

Supports 12-bit Deep Color for HDMI formats
*Cascadable to 3 levels - provides up to 8 HDMI signals.*

Long distance transmission - 20 m (24 AWG HDMI standard cable) and 15 m (28AWG HDMI standard cable)

DDC compatible

HDMI 1.3b compliant

HDCP 1.1 compliant

Signaling rates up to 2.25Gbits in support of 1080p display

All-metal casing

LED indication of display devices

Plug-and-play - no software installation required


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JP* /forum/post/21095158
> 
> 
> I've heard of Art's calibration settings for the 8350, which I tried. They can be found here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php However, when using this in cinema mode the colors look very bland and weak to me. Do others see the colors as weak and perhaps too saturated or is it just my projector?



The big thing is, is they don't mention what kind of screen he's using. Some settings are somewhat static screen to screen like brightness, contrast, and sharpness but color temperature and color are affected by the screen. I tried Arts setting on my Elite cine-white screen and they were no good. I'll post my calibration settings and report sometime next week for those who use the same screen as me.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21111751
> 
> 
> If the problem is due to inadequacies inherent in the HDMI cable's ability to pass a signal down such a long length, amplification will only "enhance' the video noise. If the cable is 22 gauge - v1.4 rated, the issue is most likely tied to the Amplifier and/or the output signal itself.



Good point. How feasible then is bi-wiring HDMI cables - splitting at source and merging at device?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21111911
> 
> 
> For the other poster, I've done this before at my previous house without issue BUT you need to be careful on over-amplification and all the other issues you have just like when you begin to daisy chain any other devices like when running RG6 for antenna! When I did it before, I had a 50ft run between amps (Monoprice CL2 22g). The Disti Amps were Monoprice HS-104. The specs say this is AOK. I think their math is wrong however on the number of HDMI signals at full deployment (3+3+4=10)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supports high-resolution video - HDTV resolution of 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p (1920x1080); VGA, SVGA, SXGA, UXGA (1600x1200), WUXGA (1920x1200)
> 
> Cascade distance: Source to Device -1.8m,*Device to Device-15m*,Device to Display-20m
> 
> Supports 12-bit Deep Color for HDMI formats
> *Cascadable to 3 levels - provides up to 8 HDMI signals.*
> 
> Long distance transmission - 20 m (24 AWG HDMI standard cable) and 15 m (28AWG HDMI standard cable)
> 
> DDC compatible
> 
> HDMI 1.3b compliant
> 
> HDCP 1.1 compliant
> 
> Signaling rates up to 2.25Gbits in support of 1080p display
> 
> All-metal casing
> 
> LED indication of display devices
> 
> Plug-and-play - no software installation required



Thanks. And it looks like your 75 foot cable is about 10 feet longer than the amp is rated to drive. (Device to Display-20m/65 feet)


Edit: Didn't notice that rating was for 24AWG stated further down. Still, I would look into that if I were you


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21109219
> 
> 
> Same monoprice cable only 75ft. Have it driven off a monoprice disti amp connected to DTV HR24-100. Have tried two different disti amps and have also used this run for a TV previously without problem. In case you're curious, I ran an RG6 to my receiver in this room for digital coax sound when I changed to the projector. HDMI cable goes from disti amp direct to PJ direct.



This is my final 57ft HDMI chain ...


Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR

2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0)

45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable

HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (a little insurance)

10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1348729 


It also worked without the "HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater" but I needed a coupler there anyway. All testing was done with full bitrate 1080p BluRay.


Sounds like you are very close to the limit. Try a disti-amp (or extender)placed at the 8350. Try ferrite cores on all cables. Be sure HDMI cables are not laying on or close to AC power cables.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21113333
> 
> 
> This is my final 57ft HDMI chain ...
> 
> 
> Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR
> 
> 2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
> 
> 4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0)
> 
> 45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable
> 
> HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (a little insurance)
> 
> 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1348729
> 
> 
> It also worked without the "HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater" but I needed a coupler there anyway. All testing was done with full bitrate 1080p BluRay.
> 
> 
> Sounds like you are very close to the limit. Try a disti-amp (or extender)placed at the 8350. Try ferrite cores on all cables. Be sure HDMI cables are not laying on or close to AC power cables.




All those items tried and verified. Believing more and more it's the 8350


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21114007
> 
> 
> All those items tried and verified. Believing more and more it's the 8350



Have you tried connecting a blu-ray or DVD player directly to the projector using a 10-20ft HDMI cable?


----------



## djo7123

I just received my 8350 and I am projecting from a ceiling mount but I can't seem to get the ratio to match my elite screen. I have the height matched up correctly using the lense shift and the image is square but the picture seems too wide for the screen. I know there has to be an easy solution but I can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djo7123* /forum/post/21122089
> 
> 
> I just received my 8350 and I am projecting from a ceiling mount but I can't seem to get the ratio to match my elite screen. I have the height matched up correctly using the lense shift and the image is square but the picture seems too wide for the screen. I know there has to be an easy solution but I can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.



Can you post a pic of the image? Preferably of the projector's "pattern" screen?


----------



## djo7123

 Attachment 226139 
Attachment 226140


----------



## mcnizzel

in the picture of the right side of your screen it looks to me as though the image is further off the screen on the top than the bottom. It also appears that the image is ever so slightly over the bottom as well. I'd make absolutely sure you've got a square image. The lens shift is fun and super useful, but it depends on you having it installed square in every way.

If thats not the case in real life, and the pictures just make it appear so, then my only other suggestion is that the screen may not be assembled quite right??


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djo7123* /forum/post/21122089
> 
> 
> I just received my 8350 and I am projecting from a ceiling mount but I can't seem to get the ratio to match my elite screen. I have the height matched up correctly using the lense shift and the image is square but the picture seems too wide for the screen. I know there has to be an easy solution but I can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.



Be sure the front of the projector is (as close as possible to) parallel and perpendicular to the screen (don't "point it" at the middle of the screen). Then, use the lens shift and zoom to bring all parts of the test pattern completely onto the screen.


Be sure the projector is set to 16:9. I guess there is a separate test pattern for 4:3.


You can't change the aspect ratio (so it all fits perfectly on the screen) ... nor would you want to. You would have to change the size of the screen. Not sure I understand the importance of a couple of inches ... most movies end up having "black bars" anyway.


----------



## Mikes2cents

That is odd. Is it 16x9 aspect? What screen is that? I would say that you could zoom the fix but it seems that your screen may not be a standard one. What are the exact measurements of your viewable screen? Check your PJ menu for what aspect you are displaying to the screen.


----------



## joeags




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djo7123* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received my 8350 and I am projecting from a ceiling mount but I can't seem to get the ratio to match my elite screen. I have the height matched up correctly using the lense shift and the image is square but the picture seems too wide for the screen. I know there has to be an easy solution but I can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.



Wow, I'm not the only one that has seen this strange result. I too have this same effect, but it only came up when I moved the projector into a maximum lense shift position. I have my unit in a cabinet, and it is at the far right hand side of the screen, and I have the lens shift in full use. I'm not sure if you are using much shift or not, but I don't remember having this when I placed it behind the couch and only used 10% of the shift.


I just have a slight overscan like you, and although I can tell, it doesn't make that big of a deal to myself.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Mine is pretty much max lens shift to the left and no problems with the image size on the screen.


----------



## RonZee

I currently have a Sony G-70 in a light controlled room with a Stewart Ultramat 150 (110 inch screen) Will this screen work with the PJ and is 110 inches OK for the size.


----------



## Lavalamps

Here are some pics of my mis-convergence. This is my first projector, I would guess that my red is off one pixel which I should consider acceptable.



http://imgur.com/Pzv5B.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




http://imgur.com/pMjoF.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




http://imgur.com/o03EW.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




http://imgur.com/LXUIr.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



Its hard to take good pictures of this stuff. I just want to make sure that I'm not likely to do better by trading in. At 110" I feel the image could be sharper but I have nothing to compare it to other than my 50" Plasma. I think I would not even be thinking about sharpness if I didn't already know that LCDs are not perfect and DLPs are.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lavalamps* /forum/post/21126758
> 
> 
> Its hard to take good pictures of this stuff. I just want to make sure that I'm not likely to do better by trading in.



Using a decent camera with *manual settings* would be a good start. It's hard to take complaints about PQ seriously when the owner doesn't seem to have a clue how to take a proper photo. The only thing I can see from your pictures is the red pixels do seem offset in the vertical axis. There's some single channel smearing that I haven't seen before, but I don't know if it's the projector or your photography that's causing it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lavalamps* /forum/post/21126758
> 
> 
> At 110" I feel the image could be sharper but I have nothing to compare it to other than my 50" Plasma. I think I would not even be thinking about sharpness if I didn't already know that LCDs are not perfect and DLPs are.



Two ways to find out - Review a DLP in-store at the same size and viewing distance, or if you know how to spot mis-focus, watch a similar movie at a commercial theatre. If you can't spot the difference...you can't spot the difference.


----------



## PRLJAMR

Finally bought an HDMI cable to hook up my blue ray player but still only getting 1080i. When I pull up the "Info" menu on the pj it says the following:


Source - HDMI

Input - Component

Resolution - 1080i

Scan Mode - Interlace

Refresh Rate - 60 HZ

Deep Color - 12 Bit


Is this normal? Am I missing a setting? Thanks.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lavalamps* /forum/post/21126758
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of my mis-convergence. This is my first projector, I would guess that my red is off one pixel which I should consider acceptable.
> 
> Its hard to take good pictures of this stuff. I just want to make sure that I'm not likely to do better by trading in. At 110" I feel the image could be sharper but I have nothing to compare it to other than my 50" Plasma. I think I would not even be thinking about sharpness if I didn't already know that LCDs are not perfect and DLPs are.



Yes, it is hard to take good pictures of this stuff. I don't know about the smearing that the previous poster mentioned but 1 pixel off is considered acceptable. Yep a panel that is not aligned by one pixel passes QC. I do not see anything in your pictures that would raise any flags. How does the actual picture look? That is the test. I was not happy with my 1 pixel misalignment but the PJ does make a very good pic. Yes, in the back of my mind I know there is none of this panel alignment BS with a DLP but there are a lot of advantages to a 8350. If you are not happy with the sharpness at viewing distance, return it. You may get a better one, you may get one that is the same or worse. They will, to their credit keep sending you one. Now if you want to look at a sharpness screen without any convergence, then get a DLP. It simply des not happen. There is nothing to align. If your picture appears way too soft no matter how much you try to focus it, the panels are off too much. If it still feels that way even though convergence looks good on the screen, you are a DLP fanboy. Nothing wrong with that because they are also very sharp units. Again, there are tradeoffs though. For the money, the 8350 is a hands down killer for what it offers in versatility and performance. Too bad they did not throw in a 3d capability in this unit instead of the stupid $3k 5010. Looks like they are going to just milk the cow here. The more expensive 3010 does not perform as well and has no lens shift, cheaper lens, oh I digress. Never mind. Missed opportunity.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21127593
> 
> 
> Finally bought an HDMI cable to hook up my blue ray player but still only getting 1080i. When I pull up the "Info" menu on the pj it says the following:
> 
> 
> Source - HDMI
> 
> Input - Component
> 
> Resolution - 1080i
> 
> Scan Mode - Interlace
> 
> Refresh Rate - 60 HZ
> 
> Deep Color - 12 Bit
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Am I missing a setting? Thanks.



I have not been following here but it would seem that if your source is HDMI then how can your input be component? Can you explain what is hooked up and how?


----------



## zach540




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21127593
> 
> 
> Finally bought an HDMI cable to hook up my blue ray player but still only getting 1080i. When I pull up the "Info" menu on the pj it says the following:
> 
> 
> Source - HDMI
> 
> Input - Component
> 
> Resolution - 1080i
> 
> Scan Mode - Interlace
> 
> Refresh Rate - 60 HZ
> 
> Deep Color - 12 Bit
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Am I missing a setting? Thanks.



I am still new at this, and while I own the 8350, I haven't even had a chance to test it yet, as I'm aware from home. But... Have you tried going with 8 bit for the color depth? Depending on the length, you may be trying to pass too much data through the cable. From what I've read, and once again, I'm new at this and by no means an expert, but Blu-Rays are only recorded in 8 bit for the color depth, so anything beyond that is simply the player or display trying to create the additional depth.


Zach


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zach540* /forum/post/21127710
> 
> 
> I am still new at this, and while I own the 8350, I haven't even had a chance to test it yet, as I'm aware from home. But... Have you tried going with 8 bit for the color depth? Depending on the length, you may be trying to pass too much data through the cable. From what I've read, and once again, I'm new at this and by no means an expert, but Blu-Rays are only recorded in 8 bit for the color depth, so anything beyond that is simply the player or display trying to create the additional depth.
> 
> 
> Zach



Some info on support being built for 10 bit video: http://3xr-ani.me/?p=154


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21127593
> 
> 
> Finally bought an HDMI cable to hook up my blue ray player but still only getting 1080i. When I pull up the "Info" menu on the pj it says the following:
> 
> 
> Source - HDMI
> 
> Input - Component
> 
> Resolution - 1080i
> 
> Scan Mode - Interlace
> 
> Refresh Rate - 60 HZ
> 
> Deep Color - 12 Bit
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Am I missing a setting? Thanks.



Is your blu-ray player video output set to Auto or forced 1080p?


----------



## PRLJAMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21127641
> 
> 
> I have not been following here but it would seem that if your source is HDMI then how can your input be component? Can you explain what is hooked up and how?



I believe I read on here that it does say component even though it is HDMI. I do still have the component cables hooked up but when I select component input on the PJ it says no signal and when I select HDMI 1 it displays the blue ray movie.


Also, I believe the BR player is set to auto but shouldn't it do native 1080P?


----------



## kolburn

My ceiling mounted 8350 has been in my theater for about 2 months now and has been fantastic save for two problems. The first is the "auto iris" error that I've seen reported in other threads. I plan to call Epson on that one next time it happens. The second, which I've not seen any posts on, is that about 5% of the time it will simply turn itself off for seemingly no reason - the resultant state is equivalent to hitting the power button twice on the remote. I can immediately hit the power button to turn it back on and it goes through the standard power on cycle. It seems that this happens most often in the first few minutes of operation, often when we're switching inputs on our Yamaha RX-A2000 receiver, which makes me wonder if somehow the receiver could be passing something via HDMI to the PJ that triggers the sudden shutdown.


This is definitely not heat related, as it most often happens in the first few minutes and never in the middle of a movie/game. It should also be noted that it doesn't go through the intermediate step of "press power to turn off" - just goes straight to "off" state. Anyone seen this?


Thanks.


----------



## mcnizzel

check the direct power on feature. It could be that it takes your set up so long to change sources or signals or resolutions, that it triggers the PJ to turn off when it sees no video signal? just a guess, I've not had this issue.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kolburn* /forum/post/21130717
> 
> 
> It seems that this happens most often in the first few minutes of operation, often when we're switching inputs on our Yamaha RX-A2000 receiver, which makes me wonder if somehow the receiver could be passing something via HDMI to the PJ that triggers the sudden shutdown.
> 
> 
> This is definitely not heat related, as it most often happens in the first few minutes and never in the middle of a movie/game. It should also be noted that it doesn't go through the intermediate step of "press power to turn off" - just goes straight to "off" state. Anyone seen this?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Sounds like HDMI control may be on in either the PJ, the AVR or both. Whatever it is called in the Yammy make sure it is turned off because for some reason when you change inputs it is sending a power on/power off signal to the PJ. It is convenient to hit a "scene" I believe Yammies use button but if it is set up a certain way the HDMI activation process may indeed send a power on signal to the PJ that is shutting it down. Just a theory. Good luck.


----------



## Gin33a44

If this projector uses the same panels as the 8500ub (probably the 6500ub as well), is it safe to say that the NATIVE contrast will be the same? I don't see at all why not


----------



## michaelv

I got the mount, but i need 12" extension from ceiling. Which type of extension do you suggest? I'm not looking for a fancy expensive one, but reasonable price one.


thanks.


----------



## lespurgeon




Gin33a44 said:


> If this projector uses the same panels as the 8500ub (probably the 6500ub as well), is it safe to say that the NATIVE contrast will be the same? I don't see at all why not
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> No. First each panel generation may have a quality bin. I'm not positive if Epson does this, but panels may be tested and split into 2 or 3 piles based on how each performs. Each is the same panel, but has a different stock number. Also, projector design. How efficient is the light path and is there any light leakage?


----------



## jfgordillo89

I´m new on this, i just bought my Epson 8350 few day ago, but i have a question... If I connect my PS3 trough HDMI to the videobeam but it doesn´t emit any sound... How could i do to make it sound ? I have a Lg Home theater, could this help me ? Please i need some help, i´m bored by playing my games without audio... Thanks folks !


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfgordillo89* /forum/post/21132353
> 
> 
> I´m new on this, i just bought my Epson 8350 few day ago, but i have a question... If I connect my PS3 trough HDMI to the videobeam but it doesn´t emit any sound... How could i do to make it sound ? I have a Lg Home theater, could this help me ? Please i need some help, i´m bored by playing my games without audio... Thanks folks !



If you need further assistance ... provide a link to the exact model of your "LG Home Theater" ...


But assuming it's a Audio/Video Receiver (amp) or a Home-Theater-in-a-Box (all in one) unit ...


Connect the 8350 HDMI to the main display HDMI *output* of the receiver.

Connect the PS3 HDMI to one of the HDMI *inputs* on the receiver.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PRLJAMR* /forum/post/21129852
> 
> 
> I believe I read on here that it does say component even though it is HDMI. I do still have the component cables hooked up but when I select component input on the PJ it says no signal and when I select HDMI 1 it displays the blue ray movie.
> 
> 
> Also, I believe the BR player is set to auto but shouldn't it do native 1080P?



When using HDMI and the Info saying Component is what should be seen. Not sure if if this is a bug but everyone who uses HDMI will see this.

I would try forcing the player to 1080p output.


----------



## kaisergrendel

Just got my 8350 today and tested it through a distri amp over 30 feet 28AWG cable. If you got a bad feeling reading that, you'd be right. The signal is barely reaching the projector at all. The amp works fine through a 3 foot cable to my HDTV. What do you think? Poor amp, or need higher gauge cable?


One more thing to note is that because of the way the cable management is laid out, the HDMI cable runs alongside power/antenna/speaker cabling for about 3 feet of the total 30 feet. I haven't tested it separated yet because frankly it was a pain to get it in in the first place, so I'll leave that for later.


----------



## richterbon23

Just got my epson 8350, first time projector owner! I am looking for a good ceiling mount. I want it to be pretty close to the ceiling but need it to hang down a 4-6 inches or so. Are there a few that you guys can suggest? Don't want to go crazy on price but want a decent product! Thanks!


----------



## ronf119




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richterbon23* /forum/post/21134099
> 
> 
> Just got my epson 8350, first time projector owner! I am looking for a good ceiling mount. I want it to be pretty close to the ceiling but need it to hang down a 4-6 inches or so. Are there a few that you guys can suggest? Don't want to go crazy on price but want a decent product! Thanks!



I'm sure MississippiMan will chime on recommending the Chief RPA168. I got the mount and going to install it this weekend. My ceiling plate is the Peerless ACC570. Went to Home Depot and bought a 1.5"x2" galvanized steel pipe nipple to connect them together. Should look sleek when done. In your situation, you would just use a longer pipe nipple. Probably around 4"


----------



## michaelv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richterbon23* /forum/post/21134099
> 
> 
> Just got my epson 8350, first time projector owner! I am looking for a good ceiling mount. I want it to be pretty close to the ceiling but need it to hang down a 4-6 inches or so. Are there a few that you guys can suggest? Don't want to go crazy on price but want a decent product! Thanks!



i just received this
http://www.amazon.com/Epson-ELPMBPJF...9742393&sr=8-1 


Looks decent and strong. However, i need to go HomeDepot to get extension (12") and install this weekend.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21134032
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 today and tested it through a distri amp over 30 feet 28AWG cable. If you got a bad feeling reading that, you'd be right. The signal is barely reaching the projector at all. The amp works fine through a 3 foot cable to my HDTV. What do you think? Poor amp, or need higher gauge cable?
> 
> 
> One more thing to note is that because of the way the cable management is laid out, the HDMI cable runs alongside power/antenna/speaker cabling for about 3 feet of the total 30 feet. I haven't tested it separated yet because frankly it was a pain to get it in in the first place, so I'll leave that for later.



Go to monoprice.com and get some 22awg HIGH SPEED cables. I drive 75' from a monoprice Disti AMP.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21134032
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 today and tested it through a distri amp over 30 feet 28AWG cable. If you got a bad feeling reading that, you'd be right. The signal is barely reaching the projector at all. The amp works fine through a 3 foot cable to my HDTV. What do you think? Poor amp, or need higher gauge cable?
> 
> 
> One more thing to note is that because of the way the cable management is laid out, the HDMI cable runs alongside power/antenna/speaker cabling for about 3 feet of the total 30 feet. I haven't tested it separated yet because frankly it was a pain to get it in in the first place, so I'll leave that for later.



Look back one page for similar discussion.


Yes, 28awg is pretty thin. Anything over 10ft, I use something thicker. Could be any of the things you mentioned. You will have to troubleshoot.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21134780
> 
> 
> Go to monoprice.com and get some 22awg HIGH SPEED cables. I drive 75' from a monoprice Disti AMP.



So, it works now? What was the problem?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21134891
> 
> 
> So, it works now? What was the problem?




I changed my cable TO the Disti-Amp and the drops have stopped. I think I am on the "hairy edge", it is also going to depend on the signal strength of the originating device. Side note for anyone that may know, ...I just swapped out my receiver in the second room from an older unit. I was driving digital audio over coax via RG6 between the rooms with no problems. The NEW receiver does NOT operated as expected (less sensitive I presume). As part of debugging, I pulled out a monoprice optical to coax converter, swapped to the optical out on my DTV HR24 and the new receiver now picks up the digital audio. I can leave it this way but wondering if anyone knows of an in-line digital audio coax amplifier.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21134882
> 
> 
> Look back one page for similar discussion.
> 
> 
> Yes, 28awg is pretty thin. Anything over 10ft, I use something thicker. Could be any of the things you mentioned. You will have to troubleshoot.



Thanks, what do you recommend? 26, 24 or 22AWG? I've been following this thread since page 60 so I know what you're referring to, however our situations are a little different.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21134780
> 
> 
> Go to monoprice.com and get some 22awg HIGH SPEED cables. I drive 75' from a monoprice Disti AMP.



Odd, I can't find any high speed HDMI over 25ft. I guess once over that length it no longer qualifies? Did you have to couple your cables to get that length?


Edit: Also, I need to pay $45 for shipping to Australia. I think I'll pass on monoprice if you don't mind


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21137031
> 
> 
> Thanks, what do you recommend? 26, 24 or 22AWG? I've been following this thread since page 60 so I know what you're referring to, however our situations are a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Odd, I can't find any high speed HDMI over 25ft. I guess once over that length it no longer qualifies? Did you have to couple your cables to get that length?
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, I need to pay $45 for shipping to Australia. I think I'll pass on monoprice if you don't mind



Very interesting on the cables, I've had mine for quite some time, left over from runs at previous house and I swear I still saw them a few weeks ago







If your local stores have markup like ours on these cables, you'd still be ahead even with the $45 shipping. Now I'm going to have to go back through my order history to see exactly what item number I ordered!!!!


Bottom line is you're at the mercy of the sensitivity of the receiver, the power of the transmitter and the quality of the cable.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21137031
> 
> 
> Thanks, what do you recommend? 26, 24 or 22AWG?
> 
> 
> Odd, I can't find any high speed HDMI over 25ft.



At 30 ft. (try to use only one cable) 24 would probably work fine, but if it doesn't, you will be wishing that you just went ahead and went 22awg.


My 45ft 22awg is item 6123. Note that this cable is about 1/2" in diameter and doesn't bend like a smaller cable. Probably the thickest/stiffest cable I have even run anywhere.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10240 


For you, 30ft:

22awg: 6121

24awg: 6099


"With Ethernet or HDMI v1.4" has extra wires (which aren't used for the 8350 installs) but don't hurt anything being there.


Standard and/or High Speed are vague terms. You will often see them referred to as what the cable was "certified" to handle. Either it's HDMI v1.3 and rated for 10.2gb bandwidth (1080p Video/Master Audio) or it isn't. They are not wired differently ... although they do need to be built properly, have adequate shielding, and be an adequate gauge for it's length.

http://www.cepro.com/article/when_is...hdmi_required/ 

http://www.dcables.net/hdmi-faq.aspx


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21137062
> 
> 
> Very interesting on the cables, I've had mine for quite some time, left over from runs at previous house and I swear I still saw them a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your local stores have markup like ours on these cables, you'd still be ahead even with the $45 shipping. Now I'm going to have to go back through my order history to see exactly what item number I ordered!!!!
> 
> 
> Bottom line is you're at the mercy of the sensitivity of the receiver, the power of the transmitter and the quality of the cable.



I guess you're right about the markup. I can't even find retailers who will label the gauge sizes on their cables (except one that was touting 26AWG, still too thin for comfort). I've spent a crazy amount on my HT already only to have it come apart in the cabling, and now I'm not sure I can afford to fix it. So close yet so far!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21137146
> 
> 
> At 30 ft. (try to use only one cable) 24 would probably work fine, but if it doesn't, you will be wishing that you just went ahead and went 22awg.
> 
> 
> My 45ft 22awg is item 6123. Note that this cable is about 1/2" in diameter and doesn't bend like a smaller cable. Probably the thickest/stiffest cable I have even run anywhere.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10240
> 
> 
> For you, 30ft:
> 
> 22awg: 6121
> 
> 24awg: 6099
> 
> 
> "With Ethernet or HDMI v1.4" has extra wires (which aren't used for the 8350 installs) but don't hurt anything being there.
> 
> 
> Standard and/or High Speed are vague terms. You will often see them referred to as what the cable was "certified" to handle. Either it's HDMI v1.3 and rated for 10.2gb bandwidth (1080p Video/Master Audio) or it isn't. They are not wired differently ... although they do need to be built properly, have adequate shielding, and be an adequate gauge for it's length.
> 
> http://www.cepro.com/article/when_is...hdmi_required/
> 
> http://www.dcables.net/hdmi-faq.aspx



I might go with the 24AWG. Including shipping it's already $75 for that at 35ft. I understand the 22 vs 24 dilemma, but I'm seriously scraping the bottom of the barrel for this system. Not sure I want to work with stiff wire either, I don't exactly know how to run it in-wall.


Thanks for clarifying some of the jargon.


Edit: Any reason to invest in ferrite cores?


----------



## jsil

Fry's has the 8350 back on sale again.


----------



## audioadrenaline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/21138132
> 
> 
> Fry's has the 8350 back on sale again.



For how much? I don't want to go through the whole checkout process to find out.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/21138180
> 
> 
> For how much? I don't want to go through the whole checkout process to find out.



not as good as last time...was thinking about pulling the trigger, but it's over 1k.


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broadwayblue* /forum/post/21138211
> 
> 
> not as good as last time...was thinking about pulling the trigger, but it's over 1k.



Check again: $1k - $1.


Same price as a refurb from Epson.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/21138387
> 
> 
> Check again: $1k - $1.
> 
> 
> Same price as a refurb from Epson.



comes up at 1k + 19 for me. regardless, since it was at $800 a few weeks ago it will be hard for me to go for it now even at $999.


----------



## LoudandClear

It was $899 and that's why I got one. IMO, This is still a great price since it's what you pay for a refurb from Epson when they have them.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21137344
> 
> 
> I've spent a crazy amount on my HT already ...
> 
> 
> ... only to have it come apart in the cabling ...



Welcome to the club










Cabling is just as important as anything else ... system


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21138775
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabling is just as important as anything else ... system


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21138832
> 
> 
> 
> Last call - Do I need high speed 22AWG cable (I decided to use that gauge after all) for 1080p, possibly enhanced color space/super white, etc? 8350-PS3 connection. I can't find >25ft high speed cables anywhere on monoprice. The length I need is 30ft.


*Again* ... just because a cable isn't "High Speed Certified" doesn't mean it can't do High-Speed or 10.2 gb max bandwidth.


I listed the cable you need above ... Can you not see it here:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10240#1025002 


The only reason to run the PS3 HDMI directly to the 8350, is if you don't have an HDMI capable AVR or amp. If that is the case, you really should consider getting one. This will enable you to have ONE cable from the AVR to the 8350 ... and everything else plugs into the AVR. Also, real BluRay 7.1 Master Audio/HD sound (if your PS3 outputs it properly via HDMI).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21138832
> 
> 
> 
> Also points to the practice of using HDMI extenders that transmit via CAT5 or CAT6 cables for long runs. Hopefully, not necessary for my case.



Yes, but you really don't want to mess with that if you don't have to. At 30ft, you don't need the extra trouble or expense. They are not fool-proof.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21139201
> 
> *Again* ... just because a cable isn't "High Speed Certified" doesn't mean it can't do High-Speed or 10.2 gb max bandwidth.
> 
> 
> I listed the cable you need above ... Can you not see it here:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10240#1025002



Sorry for the confusion, I just wanted to confirm that in unambiguous terms. It's also my understanding that HSC is a guarantee on bandwidth at the given length, whereas there is no such promise for a standard cable. Is this incorrect? Need I only check cable gauge?


Yes, thank you for your link, I'm using that to make an order. I'm sorry if my need to be absolutely certain offends anyone, but I've already made the mistake once.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21139201
> 
> 
> The only reason to run the PS3 HDMI directly to the 8350, is if you don't have an HDMI capable AVR or amp. If that is the case, you really should consider getting one. This will enable you to have ONE cable from the AVR to the 8350 ... and everything else plugs into the AVR. Also, real BluRay 7.1 Master Audio/HD sound (if your PS3 outputs it properly via HDMI).



Sorry I wasn't clear before, I wasn't referring to the connection layout, but the interface between the two devices and the maximum bandwidth needed to satisfy all extents of their operation. I'm a proud owner of a denon AVR











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21139201
> 
> 
> Yes, but you really don't want to mess with that if you don't have to. At 30ft, you don't need the extra trouble or expense. They are not fool-proof.



Thanks, I thought as much.


----------



## LoudandClear

For what it's worth: I'm running a 10 M (~33ft) cable from my PS3>1M cable>HDMI Switcher>*10M cable*>8350 projector with no issues at all. It's not 'rated' as High Speed or even 3D, brand is ACCELL and cost was like $40. If it didn't work I would just return it for a refund because I bought locally.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21139388
> 
> 
> It's also my understanding that HSC is a guarantee on bandwidth at the given length, whereas there is no such promise for a standard cable. Is this incorrect? Need I only check cable gauge?
> 
> 
> Yes, thank you for your link, I'm using that to make an order. I'm sorry if my need to be absolutely certain offends anyone, but I've already made the mistake once.



That is my understanding of it. Yes, gauge ... but also general construction (internal shielding, etc.)


No problem ... I understand. MonoPrice 22awg: # 6121 should work at 30ft., because I use the 45ft. version with no problems (see previous posts).


Good luck.


----------



## GodfatherII

Hello Im completely new to this site. And what a great site BTW.

I have just purchased the 8350 and will be soon completing construction of my HT room however need to know something and was wondering if someone could give me the answer.


If my screen starts 8" from the cieling, how far from the cieling does the top of my projector need to be?


----------



## thebigeast44

I wish someone else would place this projector on sale other than Fry's (none remotely close to me) - how about it AVS


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GodfatherII* /forum/post/21140007
> 
> 
> If my screen starts 8" from the cieling, how far from the cieling does the top of my projector need to be?



The vert lens shift capabilities of the 8350 make that dimension less important. You can adjust the lens shift to get the image where you need it. What's more improtant is having it level and at a 90 degree angle to your screen.... this will eliminate your need for having to set Keystone which will impact your picture quality.


One thing to note is if your ceiling is white you will have a good amount of reflections washing back onto the screen from the projectors light beam being so close to it. With the screen that close you will benefit greatly from having a dark/darker color on the ceiling.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GodfatherII* /forum/post/21140007
> 
> 
> Hello Im completely new to this site. And what a great site BTW.
> 
> I have just purchased the 8350 and will be soon completing construction of my HT room however need to know something and was wondering if someone could give me the answer.
> 
> 
> If my screen starts 8" from the cieling, how far from the cieling does the top of my projector need to be?


 http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/21140087
> 
> 
> The vert lens shift capabilities of the 8350 make that dimension less important. You can adjust the lens shift to get the image where you need it. What's more improtant is having it level *and at a 90 degree angle to your screen....* this will eliminate your need for having to set Keystone which will impact your picture quality.






























































Now I *KNOW* you didn't mean that! You meant to sat *"Parallel"*....that is to say that the lens is at the same angle. (flat to the wall)



> Quote:
> One thing to note is if your ceiling is white you will have a good amount of reflections washing back onto the screen from the projectors light beam being so close to it. With the screen that close you will benefit greatly from having a dark/darker color on the ceiling.



Incredibly good advice, and it should be taken very seriously. A screen that closely at a *90 degree* (...that's the same as being "perpendicular") angle to a huge source of light will light up as if it is also intended to reflect light just as much as the screen itself.


But it's not....and therefore something should be done to mitigate the inevitable.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

If I focus the projector to my blu-ray player, my HD DVD player will be slightly out of focus and vise versa. Not much but noticeable on large text like the HD DVD logo.


I tried plugging them directly to the projector bypassing my receiver and the same result. Tested both HDMI ports as well.


Anyone else have focus issues between 2 different devices?


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21142222
> 
> 
> If I focus the projector to my blu-ray player, my HD DVD player will be slightly out of focus and vise versa. Not much but noticeable on large text like the HD DVD logo.
> 
> 
> I tried plugging them directly to the projector bypassing my receiver and the same result. Tested both HDMI ports as well.
> 
> 
> Anyone else have focus issues between 2 different devices?



Since focus is purely an optical effect, if the physical position of the LCD panels, lenses, projector or screen don't change, this shouldn't happen at all. My bet is one of those things is moving around. My secondary guess may involve the way the two formats are encoded giving a slightly different appearance, but perfect focus is still perfect focus. Try a different focus target for the screen perhaps.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Now I KNOW you didn't mean that! You meant to sat "Parallel"....that is to say that the lens is at the same angle. (flat to the wall)



Symantics.... I think he DID mean 90-degrees or he'd not stated:


> Quote:
> What's more improtant is having *it* level and at a 90 degree angle to your screen...



To make your assessment correct the projector's _lens_ would need to be plumb










Good to see we can share humorous perspectives on here! Great thread, great participants!


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21142391
> 
> 
> Symantics.... I think he DID mean 90-degrees or he'd not stated:To make your assessment correct the projector's _lens_ would need to be plumb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see we can share humorous perspectives on here! Great thread, great participants!



OK, time to clarify










The projected beam from the lens would need to be 90 Deg to the projected wall surface on the horizontal plane. Of course the result would mean the projector itself is mounted Parallel to the projected wall. 90+90=180=parallel.


The reason I said it should be level is that I assumed the screen is mounted level also.


If all conditions are met it would qualify as PLUMB also.


----------



## bills2011

I am planning to buy 8350 for my basement media room but my contractor, who has previously installed this unit, says it has issues of shifting focus due to movement on upper level since it will be mounted on the basement ceiling. Is this true and is there a solution for it, though adjusting manually should be easy but I want to avoid resetting every time it moves. Thanks


----------



## frogpond1

Unless you have a herd of elephants running around upstairs or the mount isnt installed properly nothing is going to happen. Remind me to not use the contractor your using.


----------



## LoudandClear

There were some reports of the Lens Shift mechanism drifting due to really strong bass vibrations.







I would think that could happen if you are running like 4 -18" subs but I know my 2 - 15 inchers (MFW-15s) hasn't made mine move at all...... (yet!) It also could be on projectors that are moved around a lot and the lens shift is constantly being asjusted causing the mechanism to loosen up over time.


Time will tell and with Epson's excellent warranty service I'm not worried.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21144190
> 
> 
> Unless you have a herd of elephants running around upstairs or the mount isnt installed properly nothing is going to happen. Remind me to not use the contractor your using.



I don't elephants and I have to adjust my vertical lens shift about once a month.

The issue is a design flaw of no locking mechanism of the lens shift.



*See post 28 for a way to stabilize the lens from moving once set.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283049


----------



## 42Plasmaman

I primarily watch blu-ray so I enabled the 2:2 pulldown under the Settings.

I've found that this makes vertical credit rolling on the screen smoother but the motion blur during action scenes worse.


I've disabled 2:2 pulldown and the motion blur is about equivalent to DLP. A lot smoother.


Just something to keep in mind if you enable 2:2 pulldown for 24ps content/blu-ray.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21145887
> 
> 
> I primarily watch blu-ray so I enabled the 2:2 pulldown under the Settings.
> 
> I've found that this makes vertical credit rolling on the screen smoother but the motion blur during action scenes worse.
> 
> 
> I've disabled 2:2 pulldown and the motion blur is about equivalent to DLP. A lot smoother.
> 
> 
> Just something to keep in mind if you enable 2:2 pulldown for 24ps content/blu-ray.



Sweet, thanks for the tip, this link should help explain why it behaves the way it does: http://www.afterdawn.com/glossary/term.cfm/22_pulldown


----------



## kawie01

Speaking of motion blurr having great deal of it while playing my xbox360. Any suggestions?


----------



## carp

I just bought a 8350. A combination of a great price with no tax and free shipping from Visual Apex along with being high on cough syrup and yet still awake late at night pushed me over the edge.










This will be my first projector, I'm pretty excited. I'm using a 65 inch Mits rear projection CRT that I've had for over 9 years. It still looks great so I plan on putting a drop down screen in front of it and watch movies and sometimes sports on the projector and Mits for everything else.


Next I plan on ordering some screen samples. I'm pretty sure I want an electric, I just don't know if I want a tab tensioned screen or not. I have a VERY powerful subwoofer and I have heard of the screen moving a bit if it's not a tensioned screen, so that doesn't sound good.


My room can be completely light controlled but the ceiling is white and the walls are a light tan color. I'm not a huge videophile, I'm much more picky with audio so I bet I'll be pretty happy with this purchase.


I'll be 14 feet from the screen so I'm going to experiment before I get a screen. I'm thinking 110 or 120 right now but I'm not sure.


First post over here, I'm usually in the subwoofer section. Nice to see that this is an active part of the forum too.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21147886
> 
> 
> I'll be 14 feet from the screen so I'm going to experiment before I get a screen. I'm thinking 110 or 120 right now but I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> First post over here, I'm usually in the subwoofer section. Nice to see that this is an active part of the forum too.



Welcome! You'll want to use this to help you decide what size screen to get. At 14 feet, a 120 inch screen will yield a 34.6 degree view angle. For reference, 35 degrees is the minimum recommended by THX, and I see a lot of owners settle for around 40 as the most immersive view angle.

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21147886
> 
> 
> I just bought a 8350. A combination of a great price with no tax and free shipping from Visual Apex along with being high on cough syrup and yet still awake late at night pushed me over the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be my first projector, I'm pretty excited. I'm using a 65 inch Mits rear projection CRT that I've had for over 9 years. It still looks great so I plan on putting a drop down screen in front of it and watch movies and sometimes sports on the projector and Mits for everything else.
> 
> 
> Next I plan on ordering some screen samples. I'm pretty sure I want an electric, I just don't know if I want a tab tensioned screen or not. I have a VERY powerful subwoofer and I have heard of the screen moving a bit if it's not a tensioned screen, so that doesn't sound good.
> 
> 
> My room can be completely light controlled but the ceiling is white and the walls are a light tan color. I'm not a huge videophile, I'm much more picky with audio so I bet I'll be pretty happy with this purchase.
> 
> 
> I'll be 14 feet from the screen so I'm going to experiment before I get a screen. I'm thinking 110 or 120 right now but I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> First post over here, I'm usually in the subwoofer section. Nice to see that this is an active part of the forum too.



My 8350 is due tomorrow from another site and $1,099 is a very good price (cough medicine aside)! I too am at 14' with a 9'x5' - 124" diag screen since 2006 and really enjoy it! (Tested a prototype 110" diag from '02 - '06 but upgraded when I "finished" the room... BTW, the wall it's on is 12' wide.) I have a bar area behind the seating that goes to 24' (and 15' wide) so I didn't want too small or too low of a screen (the top is at 8'). I'd caution you on the roll-down screen based on the technical issues you mentioned, logistics of speaker placement, cost and if your room is currently setup as a "living room" then would a huge white roll-down BE an elephant in the room - or if you're like me, just install a proper, full-time screen and no one will doubt it's a _theatre_ room! My point is based on function over astethics... maybe your WAF has an influence... do tell: how's the room and what makes sense?


----------



## WereWolf84




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21147886
> 
> 
> I just bought a 8350. A combination of a great price with no tax and free shipping from Visual Apex along with being high on cough syrup and yet still awake late at night pushed me over the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be my first projector, I'm pretty excited. I'm using a 65 inch Mits rear projection CRT that I've had for over 9 years. It still looks great so I plan on putting a drop down screen in front of it and watch movies and sometimes sports on the projector and Mits for everything else.
> 
> 
> Next I plan on ordering some screen samples. I'm pretty sure I want an electric, I just don't know if I want a tab tensioned screen or not. I have a VERY powerful subwoofer and I have heard of the screen moving a bit if it's not a tensioned screen, so that doesn't sound good.
> 
> 
> My room can be completely light controlled but the ceiling is white and the walls are a light tan color. I'm not a huge videophile, I'm much more picky with audio so I bet I'll be pretty happy with this purchase.
> 
> 
> I'll be 14 feet from the screen so I'm going to experiment before I get a screen. I'm thinking 110 or 120 right now but I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> First post over here, I'm usually in the subwoofer section. Nice to see that this is an active part of the forum too.



Wow! Cap + big screen, you must be enjoy your whole new movies experience


----------



## frogpond1

I know its been explained before but can someone tell me if 2:2 or 2:4 pull down should be on/off and what the hell does it mean?!?!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21149013
> 
> 
> I know its been explained before but can someone tell me if 2:2 or 2:4 pull down should be on/off and what the hell does it mean?!?!



On the 8350, this only applies to 24fps content, more or less blu-ray.


When enabled, the 8350 takes 24fps and outputs them to the screen at 48hz, double the frame rate.


It seems with the 8450, the standard 2:3 pull down is better in regards to motion.



Check out the link posted by kaisergrendel for more details.


----------



## Smyly

All,

Is there any way to closely replicate the visual effect of the auto iris by adjusting the contrast, gamma, brightness etc? I'm still having noise from the auto iris on my second unit. Much better than the first, but still distracting with some material. I have it turned off now and don't really notice it with most material. Just hate to lose this functionality. I'm from the school (panny) that believes the auto iris shouldn't make any noise. Thanks for any help. -Nick


----------



## frogpond1

Which link? Are you talking about kaisergrendel's personal link to his home theater stuff?


----------



## psgcdn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21148014
> 
> 
> Welcome! You'll want to use this to help you decide what size screen to get. At 14 feet, a 120 inch screen will yield a 34.6 degree view angle. For reference, 35 degrees is the minimum recommended by THX, and I see a lot of owners settle for around 40 as the most immersive view angle.
> 
> http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html



That URL you posted says _Recommended THX viewing distance (36 degree viewing angle)_ and _Maximum THX viewing distance (26 degree viewing angle)_, so the minimum angle recommended by THX is not 35 but 26. Big difference!


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psgcdn* /forum/post/21149338
> 
> 
> That URL you posted says _Recommended THX viewing distance (36 degree viewing angle)_ and _Maximum THX viewing distance (26 degree viewing angle)_, so the minimum angle recommended by THX is not 35 but 26. Big difference!



If that website were the final word on THX standards, yes, I'd be dead wrong. However it isn't worded correctly. See:

http://www.thx.com/professional/cine...een-placement/ 

http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/athx2.html 


Reading these two links reveals that THX *requires* a 26 degree view angle for certification, but recommends a minimum of 36 degrees. Quoting 35 degrees as THX's minimum recommendation was my mistake, but it's only off by 1 degree. Thus by extension, THX recommends view angles 36 degrees and greater.


Of course, THX's opinion may not be shared by all, I'm merely quoting these specs as they do - as recommendations, not rules.


For further reading, please see this AVS thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=854721


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1* /forum/post/21149203
> 
> 
> Which link? Are you talking about kaisergrendel's personal link to his home theater stuff?



He's talking about this link: http://www.afterdawn.com/glossary/term.cfm/22_pulldown


----------



## psgcdn

Thanks kaisergrendel. It seems that recommended angles have a lot of range to them. For me, at 10 feet from the screen, it goes from 90 (36 deg) to 135 inches (52 deg)!


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psgcdn* /forum/post/21151056
> 
> 
> Thanks kaisergrendel. It seems that recommended angles have a lot of range to them. For me, at 10 feet from the screen, it goes from 90 (36 deg) to 135 inches (52 deg)!



Yes, it's just a matter of which feels optimal for you really. My setup (which I'm still building), meets the 36 degree mark roughly, but if I had a choice, I would go maybe as high as 45-50 as my eyes tend to wander and dart off-screen.


----------



## kaisergrendel

Question: Is there any way to double-secure the 8350? I'm placing it on a wall-mounted shelf and want to make sure the projector doesn't just come crashing down if the shelf by some stroke of bad luck falls. I'm thinking some kind of kensington type lock attached to a wall hook, or somesuch?


----------



## Diesel 48

Projector is arriving today! Replacing my 5 year old Pany AE-900. Any suggestions for calibration in a completely light controlled room? I was going to do the following based on the projectorcentral review.



Turn on Epson Super White

Engage auto iris

Change color temp to 7500k

Cinema Mode

Turn to eco mode


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Diesel 48* /forum/post/21152614
> 
> 
> Projector is arriving today! Replacing my 5 year old Pany AE-900. Any suggestions for calibration in a completely light controlled room?



The Disney WOW calibration disc is highly regarded as a good way to start.

http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor...0154658&sr=8-1


----------



## Diesel 48

I downloaded the test files that AVS had on here. I will use them to calibrate.


----------



## kawie01

So I am stuck with the motion blurr from my 8350?


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21153034
> 
> 
> So I am stuck with the motion blurr from my 8350?



Kawie, please list your 8350 settings first. I would also make sure that what you're seeing is called "motion blur" and not something else.


Without knowing what your problem is, my best guess is to try disabling Progressive under Signal and see if that helps.


----------



## michaelv

Does anyone run cable along the wall and ceiling with plastic cable organizer? Any picture for idea would be greatly appreciated.


thanks.


----------



## kawie01

kaisergrendel,


I am fairly new to pj's, this is my first pj. I am learning by trial & error. For settings 2:2 is enabled, iris is on fast, power is on normal. I hope that is what you were asking about.


For example when watching Transformers 3, building shots look tad blurry. When playing xbox 360, blurr with just about every monement. Could be the game, didn't think about that.


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21153770
> 
> 
> kaisergrendel,
> 
> 
> I am fairly new to pj's, this is my first pj. I am learning by trial & error. For settings 2:2 is enabled, iris is on fast, power is on normal. I hope that is what you were asking about.
> 
> 
> For example when watching Transformers 3, building shots look tad blurry. When playing xbox 360, blurr with just about every monement. Could be the game, didn't think about that.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Disable 2:2

What is your source? HDMI, Component?


----------



## kawie01

HDMI. Would a long cord have something to do with it? Not sure how long it is. I thought 2:2 was good. doubling each frame-right?


----------



## kawie01

Oh for movies I am using PS3 blu-Ray.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21153882
> 
> 
> HDMI. Would a long cord have something to do with it? Not sure how long it is. I thought 2:2 was good. doubling each frame-right?



No, signal failure from long runs would either result in no picture or "sparkle" artifacts.


Agree with 42plasmaman, disable 2:2. 2:2 pulldown converts each progressive frame into 2 interlaced ones and to my knowlege can cause motion artifacts if playing a progressive source. Also, what resolution are the projector and Xbox running at?


Edit: If the effect persists in PS3 Bluray, by elimination the problem is a projector setting. 2:2 pulldown is the most likely culprit, IMO.


Edit: From 8350 manual: "This setting can be used only when viewing a 1080p/24Hz signal input through the Component, HDMI 1, or HDMI 2 ports." If I'm reading this right, then there will still be something wrong when playing your Xbox 360 since it outputs at 60hz, which disables the 2:2 feature. See if anything improves anyway.


Can you describe this "motion blur" in more detail?


----------



## Tomas_S

Hi everybody. Long time AVS member but I haven't posted in awhile.


I was looking for a quick/cheap upgrade to my 6 year old Marantz VP-12S3. I was a little hesitant replacing a $12,000 projector with a 

My older 720p Marantz had a lot of usage on it and the bulb was starting to dim, so instead of dropping some cash on a new bulb I thought I'd give this projector a whirl. My biggest gripe with the old projector is I had some serious Moire going on with my 120" Stewart Grayhawk with Microperf. The 1080p really took care of that!


I still have some finishing work to do on the install. I had used the existing mount for the VP-12S3 and made some hacks with steel brackets to accommodate the mounting config for the 8350. It's not pretty, but once I have the hushbox back up, nobody will even know.










I'll try to post some more detailed pics of the theater and screenshots once I get everything put back. I can't wait to watch the Red Wings game tonight!


----------



## kawie01

Both are at 1080p. If I recall correctly, when I checked signal info it read 60hz progressive. I will double check when I get home.


Your help is greatly appreciated. I was getting bummed out if I made the right purchase.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21153944
> 
> 
> Both are at 1080p. If I recall correctly, when I checked signal info it read 60hz progressive. I will double check when I get home.



To my knowledge Xbox360 only goes as far as 1080i. Have a look.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21153944
> 
> 
> Your help is greatly appreciated. I was getting bummed out if I made the right purchase.



Don't worry, I hear the 8350 being used for gaming a lot with no problems.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tomas_S* /forum/post/21153941
> 
> 
> Hi everybody. Long time AVS member but I haven't posted in awhile.
> 
> 
> I was looking for a quick/cheap upgrade to my 6 year old Marantz VP-12S3. I was a little hesitant replacing a $12,000 projector with a
> 
> My older 720p Marantz had a lot of usage on it and the bulb was starting to dim, so instead of dropping some cash on a new bulb I thought I'd give this projector a whirl. My biggest gripe with the old projector is I had some serious Moire going on with my 120" Stewart Grayhawk with Microperf. The 1080p really took care of that!



Hahah, the pains of early adoption. Hows it compare to the Marantz?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tomas_S* /forum/post/21153941
> 
> 
> Hi everybody. Long time AVS member but I haven't posted in awhile.
> 
> 
> I was looking for a quick/cheap upgrade to my 6 year old Marantz VP-12S3. I was a little hesitant replacing a $12,000 projector with a
> 
> 
> I've had _two_ since then - bought my 1st Sony VPL-VW10HT (1366x768) in 2001 as a _demo_ w/120 hours for $4,500, then a $450 bulb after 2200 hours. In 2007 I retired that for a Sony VPL-AW15 (1280x720) and am needing to replace its $300 bulb to which I bought this Epson 8350 (1920x1080) for under $1,100 - in fact, I paid $5 less for this Epson than I did for the Sony in 2007! I'm finding the technology is rapidly developing** and there's not a strong motivator to spend the $3,200 - 3,999 Sony wants for their latest 1920x1080 units... Mine is arriving this week - I hope I'll not be disappointed in the picture quality!
> 
> 
> **The Epson 8350 utilizes 3LCD technology - the same as the Sony VPL-AW15


----------



## Tomas_S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21153994
> 
> 
> Hahah, the pains of early adoption. Hows it compare to the Marantz?



So far, first impressions are a definite improvement. I haven't been able to sit through a whole movie or game yet. The Moire is history and colors and contrast are much improved. Since this is a dedicated theater & totally light controlled I was worried if I didn't make the wrong decision not opting for the 8700UB. Blacks on the 8350 are much better than my Marantz and I think I made the right decision. But for $1200 it was a cheap gamble.


----------



## kaisergrendel

You guys make me glad I waited this long for a projector xD


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tomas_S* /forum/post/21154110
> 
> 
> So far, first impressions are a definite improvement. I haven't been able to sit through a whole movie or game yet. The Moire is history and colors and contrast are much improved. Since this is a dedicated theater & totally light controlled I was worried if I didn't make the wrong decision not opting for the 8700UB. Blacks on the 8350 are much better than my Marantz and I think I made the right decision. But for $1200 it was a cheap gamble.



Nice!


----------



## Tomas_S

Here she is! I can't wait to really break this in. I thought the picture was amazing then I realized my Blu-Ray was only spitting out 720p! LOL, Didn't think it could get any better.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I've made a few changes in my setup for evaluation and testing.


First, "convergence." I was very suspect when my unit would be fine one day and a bit off the next. The lens assembly is not terribly solid-feeling, a lot of free-play. After setting zoom and dialing in good focus, I had a 1-pixel vertical offset on red. I further tuned the focus and the slight improvement seemed to dial that away. I also stuck a wad of memory foam (cut from a mattress topper!) to gently support the lens assembly. So far, seems pretty stable, and I can't really tell if the tweaking helped or it's just a good day for the 8350!


I added an ND2 neutral-density filter at the output lens and it's a good improvement. I'd like to go with a higher value but I don't have enough white level headroom... pushing past even 10 fL clips below ideal white. My lamp has over 2100 hours and I'm in eco mode, so I can't complain.


Though that output level may seem low, I've also done a pretty extensive experiment in room-treatment. The perimeter is lined with a strange mix of various black "blackout" drapes, the area from screen to maybe 5 feet out is "boxed" with a mishmash of black velvet and fleece (whatever stuff I had laying about) and I borrowed some tricks from astronomy and placed side-to-side vertical baffles on the ceiling and floor. I just wanted to do a quick-and-dirty to see how it fared.


I like it. A lot! I did a very quick recal to levels, greyscale and RGBCMY. It needs another pass or two, but the image is gorgeous. I recorded "the Alps" from HDNet (a climbing expedition, good show) and the camera work as presented by the 8350 was just stunning. As I continue working the the 8350, it just keeps pulling rabbits out of the hat.


And of course, with all that blackout going on I can call it the Bat Cave.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/21155228
> 
> 
> I've made a few changes in my setup for evaluation and testing.
> 
> 
> First, "convergence." I was very suspect when my unit would be fine one day and a bit off the next. The lens assembly is not terribly solid-feeling, a lot of free-play. After setting zoom and dialing in good focus, I had a 1-pixel vertical offset on red. I further tuned the focus and the slight improvement seemed to dial that away. I also stuck a wad of memory foam (cut from a mattress topper!) to gently support the lens assembly. So far, seems pretty stable, and I can't really tell if the tweaking helped or it's just a good day for the 8350!
> 
> 
> I added an ND2 neutral-density filter at the output lens and it's a good improvement. I'd like to go with a higher value but I don't have enough white level headroom... pushing past even 10 fL clips below ideal white. My lamp has over 2100 hours and I'm in eco mode, so I can't complain.
> 
> 
> Though that output level may seem low, I've also done a pretty extensive experiment in room-treatment. The perimeter is lined with a strange mix of various black "blackout" drapes, the area from screen to maybe 5 feet out is "boxed" with a mishmash of black velvet and fleece (whatever stuff I had laying about) and I borrowed some tricks from astronomy and placed side-to-side vertical baffles on the ceiling and floor. I just wanted to do a quick-and-dirty to see how it fared.
> 
> 
> I like it. A lot! I did a very quick recal to levels, greyscale and RGBCMY. It needs another pass or two, but the image is gorgeous. I recorded "the Alps" from HDNet (a climbing expedition, good show) and the camera work as presented by the 8350 was just stunning. As I continue working the the 8350, it just keeps pulling rabbits out of the hat.
> 
> 
> And of course, with all that blackout going on I can call it the Bat Cave.



Sony, can you explain how ND filters help since they're designed to reduce light transmission evenly (unless the image is too bright to begin with?)? I've been wondering about that for awhile.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21155359
> 
> 
> Sony, can you explain how ND filters help since they're designed to reduce light transmission evenly? I've been wondering about that for awhile.



The ND filter will darken the low and high end but your eyes tend to notice the improved low end (deeper _blacks_) but not notice (nearly as much) the deceased brightness (white level).


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charles R* /forum/post/21155400
> 
> 
> The ND filter will darken the low and high end but your eyes tend to notice the improved low end (deeper _blacks_) but not notice (nearly as much) the deceased brightness (white level).



I can understand that.


Does the 8350 lens have filter threads? The specs don't seem to mention it


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21155451
> 
> 
> Does the 8350 lens have filter threads? The specs don't seem to mention it



Years ago when I used one I found a rubber lens hood that fit around the lens and was threaded on the other side. I purchased a ND filter that fit it and I was good to go. However, I always wondered if I was trapping heat between the two lens within the air pocket... which probably wasn't good.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21153677
> 
> 
> Does anyone run cable along the wall and ceiling with plastic cable organizer? Any picture for idea would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> thanks.



My choice is to pull off floor trim, shove cable along the bottom of the drywall, and put the trim back on. Works best for speaker wire. I did this for in-wall speakers without making any major holes.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21152423
> 
> 
> Question: Is there any way to double-secure the 8350? I'm placing it on a wall-mounted shelf and want to make sure the projector doesn't just come crashing down if the shelf by some stroke of bad luck falls. I'm thinking some kind of kensington type lock attached to a wall hook, or somesuch?



Screw through the shelf into one of the mounting holes? If the shelf is secure, then it will never move.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21155873
> 
> 
> Screw through the shelf into one of the mounting holes?



Hahah, I was asking for a backup solution. The projector won't really be in danger of sliding off the shelf unless, you know, the shelf itself fails.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21155873
> 
> 
> If the shelf is secure, then it will never move.



While you can do everything that's required to achieve a good mount, you'll never really know if it'll move until it does, ay?


----------



## rcliff

The other day we had a momentary power outage and when I turned the 8350 back on I got a blue screen with a message "Error in auto iris, contact Epson service provider". I turned it off and the lights on the PJ flashed red and fans went full blast. I pulled the power and plugged back in and it turned on and operated normally. Tonight when I turned it on I got the same error and had to hard power cycle again. Has anyone else seen this? Auto iris isn't even on. Not too happy at the moment and the PJ is only a couple of weeks old.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21156249
> 
> 
> The other day we had a momentary power outage and when I turned the 8350 back on I got a blue screen with a message "Error in auto iris



Mine does this about once every other month.

Power off the projector.

Unplug the power cables from the projector.

Wait 1 minute plug it back in.

Wait about 5 minutes and power back on.

If the error comes right back, call Epson and get an exchange.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21156249
> 
> 
> The other day we had a momentary power outage and when I turned the 8350 back on I got a blue screen with a message "Error in auto iris, contact Epson service provider". I turned it off and the lights on the PJ flashed red and fans went full blast. I pulled the power and plugged back in and it turned on and operated normally. Tonight when I turned it on I got the same error and had to hard power cycle again. Has anyone else seen this? Auto iris isn't even on. Not too happy at the moment and the PJ is only a couple of weeks old.



Not that I would know how to troubleshoot this, but was auto-iris on when the outage happened?


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21156273
> 
> 
> Mine does this about once every other month.
> 
> Power off the projector.
> 
> Unplug the power cables from the projector.
> 
> Wait 1 minute plug it back in.
> 
> Wait about 5 minutes and power back on.
> 
> If the error comes right back, call Epson and get an exchange.



So maybe this is a common issue and no big deal? I hope so, other than this annoyance, this PJ has been awesome.


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21156287
> 
> 
> Not that I would know how to troubleshoot this, but was auto-iris on when the outage happened?



Nope, was off both times.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

I don't use auto iris either but you will hear the iris adjust when you turn the projector on and off. So if it can't adjust properly when you turn on, the error is displayed.



Also, when this error occurs, use the power button on the projector to turn it off.

Wait for the cool down fanning to stop THEN unplug the power for a minute.


Don't ever shutdown the projector. I'd invest in a low cost UPS just for the projector in an event of a power outage so you can turn it off and let the normal cooling process execute to properly cool the lamp.


----------



## Mikes2cents

I have never heard the iris on my 8350. Perhaps it is not working or I have a killer unit. Granted I have not tried that hard to hear it but I have tried all the settings and sometimes wonder what all the hullabaloo is about. The pic is great and that is all that matters to me.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21156607
> 
> 
> I have never heard the iris on my 8350. Perhaps it is not working or I have a killer unit. Granted I have not tried that hard to hear it but I have tried all the settings and sometimes wonder what all the hullabaloo is about. The pic is great and that is all that matters to me.



Maybe we can do a quick poll? Can everyone below this post mention if your 8350 iris is silent, audible, or loud please?


----------



## rcliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21156563
> 
> 
> I don't use auto iris either but you will hear the iris adjust when you turn the projector on and off. So if it can't adjust properly when you turn on, the error is displayed.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, when this error occurs, use the power button on the projector to turn it off.
> 
> Wait for the cool down fanning to stop THEN unplug the power for a minute.
> 
> 
> Don't ever shutdown the projector. I'd invest in a low cost UPS just for the projector in an event of a power outage so you can turn it off and let the normal cooling process execute to properly cool the lamp.



Makes sense. Thanks


----------



## kawie01

I can hear the iris when I turn on the pj or change viewing options. But as the movie is playing, I don't hear anything. I did turn volume off once & did hear a gurgling sound kinda like a coffee maker. Is that it?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21156607
> 
> 
> I have never heard the iris on my 8350. Perhaps it is not working or I have a killer unit. Granted I have not tried that hard to hear it but I have tried all the settings and sometimes wonder what all the hullabaloo is about. The pic is great and that is all that matters to me.



With the room completely silent, get about 8 feet from the projector, turn on it on and within a few seconds before you see the EPSON logo, you will hear the iris adjust.

You will hear the same sound when you turn off the projector as well.


----------



## michaelv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21155834
> 
> 
> My choice is to pull off floor trim, shove cable along the bottom of the drywall, and put the trim back on. Works best for speaker wire. I did this for in-wall speakers without making any major holes.



that's great idea. I also had speaker wire in wall done by a contractor when i hired him to do molding and such. I didn't plan for using projector since my basement is small.


But now, kid loves big screen and i agree that it's nice improvement in viewing experience. I am not really a handyman so pulling things apart is really a tough job for me. So i decide to just stick the plastic raceway along the wall and paint it matched to wall color.


----------



## Diesel 48

Installed the projector last night, it is amazing how much better it looks than my old panasonic ae900. So much brighter, better colors, amazing! I still need to dial it in with test images found on this site. Now to see how much I can get for the old projector.


----------



## Rgb

Just my quick $.02 review-


Received my 8350 about a month ago.


Arrived in perfect shape, double boxed (without asking) from Amazon (ordered fulfilled by).


Only took about a minute to ceiling mount to my trusty old DIY monkey_man mount-

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=232749&page=2 


as the bolt pattern on the 8350 is the same as the previous Epson HC720 and HC400 before that.


A quick check of the test patterns with the AVS HD709 BD5 calibration disc (BluRay authored HDMV burned to a SL DVD+R disc) played on an Insignia BRDVD3

http://insigniaproducts.com/products...NS-BRDVD3.html 


reveals no obvious issues or dead pixels (yet). Convergence appears to be within 1 pixel or less for r,g,b, though I need to check again more closely over the entire field, while adjusting focus and the lens position as mentioned in other posts in this thread.


As most (99.99999%) of my video/film/TV disc collection amassed since 1997 is DVD, I watched a DVD to test. I don't see my film collection DVD/BluRay ratio changing much in the time I'll own the 8350. Yes, I have some BD essentials like Dark Knight, Star Trek film, etc, and will probably rent and buy more BluRay moving forward, but everyone else has covered the BluRay picture quality reviews, not much to contribute there.


I like Mann films, and a fan of Crowe and Pacino, so _The Insider_ fit the bill-
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0140352/ 


as I hadn't screened the film yet and it has been in my collection for some time.


Set the BRDVD3 to output 1080p over a 35ft Monoprice HDMI cable and sat back in my dedicated, light controlled basement theater, projecting onto a Behr Silverscreen painted,

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=390146 


finished drywall purpose made for a screen, throwing a 9' wide image about 14' lens to wall.


Set the 8350 to Eco mode, iris off (!).


Fan noise not an issue about 28" above my head.


Most visually enjoyable film (from a tech A/V standpoint) experience I've watched in my theater to date. In many high-contrast, closeup-talking-head-scenes, the actors appear to pop into the third dimension- the well known (by experienced avs'ers) 3D-effect previously only seen on ISF'd CRT's and some high end DLP's and the Epson UB's. Those D7 panels are doing their job- no funky glasses needed here







And this is just out of the box in Natural mode!


Needless to say, the contrast and black levels and shadow detail are easily better than the prior Epson HC720 and HC400.


For those of us seasoned projector owners, the handwringing and analysis paralysis exihibted by some posters over a possible 8350 purchase is quite comical.


At the current price levels, the 8350 is the biggest no-brainer out there in HT-land. And I didn't even get it at the lowest price I've seen mentioned in the forum (~$900)!?


If someone had told me in 1999 that I could have what the 8350 is for $1K (new with 2 year warranty), I wouldn't have believed them.


To put things in perspective, in 1999 I paid $3000 for a *refurbished* 600 lumen, 1024x768 LCD with 300:1 spec contrast! That behemoth (Mits X100) maybe put out a real 100:1 contrast on a good day (or it looked like it







). I had to ship it back twice to Mitsubishi for *warranty* work (excessive dust contamination), and had to *pay* to ship it to them (they paid return shipping)!


Epson overnights a replacement and gives you a Fedex return label in the box fercrissakes!


So, the trepidation in threads like this is quite hilarious to some of us "old timers".


----------



## Diesel 48

Is there a reason people turn the iris off? When I read a review that said for deeper blacks turn on epson super white and turn the iris on. Am I missing something?


----------



## Rgb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Diesel 48* /forum/post/21159150
> 
> 
> Is there a reason people turn the iris off? When I read a review that said for deeper blacks turn on epson super white and turn the iris on. Am I missing something?



In my review above, I turned off the iris so I could judge the native contrast of the LCD panels "straight up".


I have no particular issue with an active iris and think they are a good idea in general, though operational algorithms and acoustic properties can vary significantly among projector makes and models.


I liked the iris system on the Panny AE700 I had, silent and fast acting to the point of imperceptible. The iris on my Hc400/700 seemed to react slower than the Panny, with some audible noise with the PJ mounted above my head, though it didn't bother me.


----------



## carp

I posted this in the screens forum but figured it wouldn't hurt to post here too.


I finally took the plunge on a projector, the Epson 8350. I've been a member here for a long time, but I'm more into the audio side of things.


Anyway, I am wanting to get an electric screen to come down in front of my current tv (yes, that is an old school 65" RPTV - I prefer it by a mile to our LCD upstairs) to use for sports and for movies.


I want to find a nice balance between having some of the lights on in the room for sports and no lights on for movies, both are equally important to me. As you can see my walls are very light and my ceiling is white which I know is not good for HT, but if I really get into this I could see myself sometime down the road painting the room (not all black, but darker colors)


In the picture where you see my current tv I am wanting to place the screen so that it is right in front of where those can lights are. The screen won't be that wide, but I figure if those lights are slightly behind the level of the screen then I could get away with having some lighting (dimmed a bit I'm sure) for sports. My speakers are almost 4 feet out into the room, and thats about where I would want my screen to come down.


I can completely control the light in the room at all times of the day (expect for the color of the walls/ceiling).


I'm planning on putting the projector back by the computer desk. Probably on the desk to start and then eventually mount it in the back wall. If I do this the throw distance will be between 16 and 17 feet.


My seating position will be 14 feet back from the screen and I am thinking about either a 120 or 110 inch screen.


My budget... hmmm.... If a 200-300 dollar screen from Favi or Elite will look good that would be great. I don't know if a high gain, gray screen, high contrast high power screen should be options are not. I would say if something other than a basic electric screen would make a large difference I would be willing to spend between 500 and 800.


Keep in mind, I'm an audio guy not a videophile but I do have high expectations for this after reading a ton of reviews for this projector.


thanks guys!!


----------



## lespurgeon

Cheapest electric that I know of is about $500 for 120" (Monoprice) It comes in a video gray to help with a bit of light. I know nothing about the screen - what reviews I have seen tend to be mreo abut value than quality. I used a DaLite Model C manual pull-down for years with good results - and a lower price.


What are you doing with your center channel? A pull-down screen will block it on top of the TV.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21160356
> 
> 
> Cheapest electric that I know of is about $500 for 120" (Monoprice) It comes in a video gray to help with a bit of light. I know nothing about the screen - what reviews I have seen tend to be mreo abut value than quality. I used a DaLite Model C manual pull-down for years with good results - and a lower price.
> 
> 
> What are you doing with your center channel? A pull-down screen will block it on top of the TV.



Yeah, that's why I originally thought about an AT screen, until I saw the price for an electric - ouch.


It's a problem for sure. Eventually I plan on buying seperate speakers for HT and just use the Maggies for music. Until then I was going to put the current Maggie down below the new screen. If that doesn't work I also considered going phantom center until I buy speakers for HT.


My other problem is that beam. I will either be off center or have to have the screen lower than I would like.


Did your manual pull down end up with creases or anything like that?


----------



## jrwhite

Hi Carp,


In our high ambient light livingroom setup I use an Elunevision Vivid Pro 2.4 gain retro reflective motorized. The only supplier I know for them is eastporters.com ( the site that's infamous in Canada for also selling gray market projectors ). The motorized 106" is almost exactly the top end of your budget, and the 120" just slightly above it.

http://eastporters.com/usa/cart.php?...category_id=86 


Since you are shelf mounting, and don't appear to have ambient light coming from behind, this type of screen may work well for you. Retro screens direct light back at the source, so they're better at rejecting stray light bounce off light coloured walls compared to non-retro screens. The added gain, especially coupled with a bright projector like the 8350 ( I have the 8350 too ) means you can get a good lights on picture for high contrast material like sports.


The other big advantage of a retro screen is that it doesn't show waves when you're projecting on it. Virtually all non-tab-tensioned electrics either have or develop waves, and they can be very distracting.


In the same livingroom setup I also have an Optoma Greywolf I and a Dalite Hi Power. I'm pretty sure the Elunevision comes from the same Chinese factory as the Greywolf. What I didn't like about the Greywolf was that it had a 'dirty' texture, and 'sparklies'. Although the Greywolf has a slightly better black floor, I prefer the added gain and pop from the higher gain white material in the High Power and Elunevision.


The Dalite is a better screen, but not dramatically. Both have about the same half gain angle, and the colour rendition is pretty close. The white Elunevision doesn't exhibit sparklies ( and neither does the Dalite of course ).


The one big disadvantage of both the Greywolf and Elunevision high gain is that they are not cleanable ... at all. The Hi Power is 'somewhat' cleanable.


Hope this helps,


Jonathan


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrwhite* /forum/post/21162275
> 
> 
> Hi Carp,
> 
> 
> In our high ambient light livingroom setup I use an Elunevision Vivid Pro 2.4 gain retro reflective motorized. The only supplier I know for them is eastporters.com ( the site that's infamous in Canada for also selling gray market projectors ). The motorized 106" is almost exactly the top end of your budget, and the 120" just slightly above it.
> 
> http://eastporters.com/usa/cart.php?...category_id=86
> 
> 
> Since you are shelf mounting, and don't appear to have ambient light coming from behind, this type of screen may work well for you. Retro screens direct light back at the source, so they're better at rejecting stray light bounce off light coloured walls compared to non-retro screens. The added gain, especially coupled with a bright projector like the 8350 ( I have the 8350 too ) means you can get a good lights on picture for high contrast material like sports.
> 
> 
> The other big advantage of a retro screen is that it doesn't show waves when you're projecting on it. Virtually all non-tab-tensioned electrics either have or develop waves, and they can be very distracting.
> 
> 
> In the same livingroom setup I also have an Optoma Greywolf I and a Dalite Hi Power. I'm pretty sure the Elunevision comes from the same Chinese factory as the Greywolf. What I didn't like about the Greywolf was that it had a 'dirty' texture, and 'sparklies'. Although the Greywolf has a slightly better black floor, I prefer the added gain and pop from the higher gain white material in the High Power and Elunevision.
> 
> 
> The Dalite is a better screen, but not dramatically. Both have about the same half gain angle, and the colour rendition is pretty close. The white Elunevision doesn't exhibit sparklies ( and neither does the Dalite of course ).
> 
> 
> The one big disadvantage of both the Greywolf and Elunevision high gain is that they are not cleanable ... at all. The Hi Power is 'somewhat' cleanable.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> 
> Jonathan



Thanks Jonathan. The 120 inch is 349, if it's worth it I would spring for that in a heartbeat. Does the brightness really fade if you are off to the side? I don't think it would be too bad in my room since I have a long and not real wide room.


Also, my mount wall will be a bit off center (2 feet or so). Will that be a problem?


Also, I see a lot of people saying the 8350 is so bright with just a 1.0 screen. Would it be too bright with a 2.4 when I turn the lights off for a movie?


BTW, I have zero ambient light in the room.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21162931
> 
> 
> Thanks Jonathan. The 120 inch is 349, if it's worth it I would spring for that in a heartbeat. Does the brightness really fade if you are off to the side? I don't think it would be too bad in my room since I have a long and not real wide room.
> 
> 
> Also, my mount wall will be a bit off center (2 feet or so). Will that be a problem?
> 
> 
> Also, I see a lot of people saying the 8350 is so bright with just a 1.0 screen. Would it be too bright with a 2.4 when I turn the lights off for a movie?
> 
> 
> BTW, I have zero ambient light in the room.



Judging from the pics of your room, off-angle viewing won't be an issue. You off center mounting will be fine as well.


The projector includes a lens shift feature that will center the picture on the screen even if your placement is a bit off center.


I have a 1.0 high contrast grey screen, and the 8350 is plenty bright with a lot to spare. For my personal taste, I turn the brightness down quite a bit. Brightness is not an issue.


----------



## jrwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21162931
> 
> 
> Thanks Jonathan. The 120 inch is 349, if it's worth it I would spring for that in a heartbeat. Does the brightness really fade if you are off to the side? I don't think it would be too bad in my room since I have a long and not real wide room.
> 
> 
> Also, my mount wall will be a bit off center (2 feet or so). Will that be a problem?
> 
> 
> Also, I see a lot of people saying the 8350 is so bright with just a 1.0 screen. Would it be too bright with a 2.4 when I turn the lights off for a movie?
> 
> 
> BTW, I have zero ambient light in the room.



Our projector is slightly off centre of the screen, and we don't see noticeable drop off unless we're sitting outside the edges of the screen. Even then, the gain drops down to about 1.0 when you're a couple of feet outside the screen edges. We sit about 12' from a 92" screen. From your pictures, if you locate the projector on your computer table, or on a shelf above it, it looks like both your couches will be in the high gain cone.


As you know, the 8350 light output drops significantly in cinema mode. Combine that with low lamp, and I don't think you would be overpowering the 2.4 gain 120" screen. If you did find it too bright, you could always affix an ND filter on the PJ.


I would estimate based on a what projectorcentral.com measured for cinema mode in their review ( 560 lumen in cinema / high lamp ) so about 436 in low lamp, divided by 42 square feet of screen area ( 120" screen ) * 2.4 = ~24FL when the lamp is new. In reality, you'll get slightly less, as the 2.4 gain is only when you're exactly on axis. This will also give you headroom to keep using cinema mode and bump up to high lamp as the lamp ages. Ideally you should have about 15FL, so I think you're good.


The screen being off centre doesn't matter. Retro screens always direct light back at the source ( projector ) no matter what the angle of incidence. Your 'gain cone' is bisected by the imaginary line between the lens and the centre of the screen.


Jonathan


----------



## jrwhite

You actually have an ideal layout for shelf mounting, as there is no seating in front of where you are going to mount. This will allow you to mount exactly at eye leve, which maximizes the gain.


Jonathan


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21160924
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's why I originally thought about an AT screen, until I saw the price for an electric - ouch.
> 
> 
> It's a problem for sure. Eventually I plan on buying seperate speakers for HT and just use the Maggies for music. Until then I was going to put the current Maggie down below the new screen. If that doesn't work I also considered going phantom center until I buy speakers for HT.
> 
> 
> My other problem is that beam. I will either be off center or have to have the screen lower than I would like.
> 
> 
> Did your manual pull down end up with creases or anything like that?



I've had both a Model C and a Model B, Matt White in both cases. The Model C never got creases, the Model B, after 4 or 5 years of use, has a few, but not really noticable from distance on the Matt White material - I can't speak for any other material - it sounds like you might be looking for something that sheds light a bit more - and that could affect how wrinkles either develop or affect the picture. Ask over in the screen forum


----------



## litng1

Hello guys I just got me a epson 8350 and im pretty excited.Just need to know what size screen I should use and what kind.Im thinking a pull down because of price.Im wanting to fill up about a 11 foot by 6.5 foot area.I dont know if thats a 120 inch or maybe a 150. The room will be very dark.Going in a 2600 square foot heated garage.Not using the whole 2600 just part of it.Thanks for any help.


----------



## litng1

Ill only be watching UFC fights and some movies on it.Im also going to be about 15 to 20 feet from screen.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *litng1* /forum/post/21164659
> 
> 
> Hello guys I just got me a epson 8350 and im pretty excited.Just need to know what size screen I should use and what kind.Im thinking a pull down because of price.Im wanting to fill up about a 11 foot by 6.5 foot area.I dont know if thats a 120 inch or maybe a 150. The room will be very dark.Going in a 2600 square foot heated garage.Not using the whole 2600 just part of it.Thanks for any help.



Start by shooting onto the wall to get an idea for size. Projection screens generally sell by width, not diagonal - so you are looking for 120" (10 foot) wide or larger screen if you are trying to fill the entire 11 feet of width. My first screen was a painted sheet of masonite (only 8' wide) that was the best price option. Remember, you will want room around the screen for your speakers. I've not looked at pull-down that large, but they are available. Largest I've had was 92" wide.


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21164715
> 
> 
> Projection screens generally sell by width, not diagonal.



Are you sure about that? I think you have it reversed


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/21164958
> 
> 
> Are you sure about that? I think you have it reversed



I'll agree TVs and all always sell by diagonal, but when I've looked at a projection screen catalog, it has usually been listed by available widths. In most cases both width and diagonal shouldbe listed anyway.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *litng1* /forum/post/21164703
> 
> 
> Ill only be watching UFC fights and some movies on it.Im also going to be about 15 to 20 feet from screen.



If you have decent light control I would have a look on Amazon where they are listed by diagonal size. I got a Elite 120" matte white to go with my 8350 and it works pretty well for moderate light and pretty good when I cave out. That is just slightly smaller than your spec but there is also 135-150" units. They will list all dimensions when you look at the product.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Keep in mind that if you get a non-tensioned pulldown screen that the screen will most likely get/have waves.


----------



## Davinleeds

Yes, that's my next theater goal - tensioned.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Oh boy. Here we go. Mine has zero bubbles, waves, wrinkles, booger smears etc. So far anyway. Well there might be a booger smear lol, but I am not so sure he needs to go high speed for occasional movie viewing and UFC fights in a garage.


----------



## litng1

Im new to this so I dont know what you mean by highspeed Mike.What about this one.Its not a pull down.I might be able to go with this for the money.

FAVI HD-150 16:9/150-Inch Electric Projector Screen


----------



## kawie01

Over heabting warning came up past two days. Good clearance from wall. Getting cold outside heater is running, house is not hot though. Any suggestions?


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21169142
> 
> 
> Over heabting warning came up past two days. Good clearance from wall. Getting cold outside heater is running, house is not hot though. Any suggestions?



Clean the filter


----------



## pcrx

Long time AVS'er here but we have been without a PJ since selling our old house with the dedicated HT as part of the sale. Looks like I am going to make the 8350 my new PJ. I missed the Fry's deal (arrrrrgh!) but will wait a bit more to see if they go on sale again. Once you spy a price like that its hard to justify more...


----------



## kawie01

Checked it, it is fine.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21169142
> 
> 
> Over heabting warning came up past two days. Good clearance from wall. Getting cold outside heater is running, house is not hot though. Any suggestions?



Try turning High Altitude on.

It makes the fan run faster.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21169142
> 
> 
> Over heabting warning came up past two days. Good clearance from wall. Getting cold outside heater is running, house is not hot though. Any suggestions?



Well, first two obvious things is have you cleaned the air filter lately and have you tried Eco mode?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21159540
> 
> 
> I posted this in the screens forum but figured it wouldn't hurt to post here too.
> 
> 
> I finally took the plunge on a projector, the Epson 8350. I've been a member here for a long time, but I'm more into the audio side of things.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am wanting to get an electric screen to come down in front of my current tv (yes, that is an old school 65" RPTV - I prefer it by a mile to our LCD upstairs) to use for sports and for movies.
> 
> 
> I want to find a nice balance between having some of the lights on in the room for sports and no lights on for movies, both are equally important to me. As you can see my walls are very light and my ceiling is white which I know is not good for HT, but if I really get into this I could see myself sometime down the road painting the room (not all black, but darker colors)
> 
> 
> In the picture where you see my current tv I am wanting to place the screen so that it is right in front of where those can lights are. The screen won't be that wide, but I figure if those lights are slightly behind the level of the screen then I could get away with having some lighting (dimmed a bit I'm sure) for sports. My speakers are almost 4 feet out into the room, and thats about where I would want my screen to come down.
> 
> 
> I can completely control the light in the room at all times of the day (expect for the color of the walls/ceiling).
> 
> 
> I'm planning on putting the projector back by the computer desk. Probably on the desk to start and then eventually mount it in the back wall. If I do this the throw distance will be between 16 and 17 feet.
> 
> 
> My seating position will be 14 feet back from the screen and I am thinking about either a 120 or 110 inch screen.
> 
> 
> My budget... hmmm.... If a 200-300 dollar screen from Favi or Elite will look good that would be great. I don't know if a high gain, gray screen, high contrast high power screen should be options are not. I would say if something other than a basic electric screen would make a large difference I would be willing to spend between 500 and 800.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, I'm an audio guy not a videophile but I do have high expectations for this after reading a ton of reviews for this projector.
> 
> 
> thanks guys!!



I received the projector today and figured I'd try it out on my wall. The wall is painted in a color called Tony Taupe (Sherwin Williams). The color on my wall looks darker than this link, but oh well.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_i.../color/SW7038/ 


Anyway here are some screenshots taken with a crappy Canon Powershot a630 camera and taken by a guy that has no idea how to take good pictures. Notice how everything in the room is blurry, so these shots are not very good.


Throw distance is 16'6" and my viewing position is 19 feet from the wall. The setting is dynamic with nothing else changed from the factory settings. These 2 pictures are 133" images on the wall. The first pic the lights in the room are all on and all the way up. 2nd pic is all lights off. It looks a lot better in my room.




















The next 2 pictures are from my computer. Both are from youtube 720p. I can't believe how good my computer screen looks on the wall. I took some pics of just how a browser looks but they all came out blurry and they are not blurry on my wall.


These pictures the image is 102". Once again, all lights on all the way and no lights.




















The above pic actually looked very good, not all bloomy and too bright like it looks here.


Overall I'm so impressed with this projector, although it's my first so take it for what it's worth.


I think I have a problem though. My plan was to get an electric screen to come down in front of my current tv. After seeing this I don't think I'll ever want to turn it off.


My wife and I watched X-Men First Class tonight and it was amazing. I should have taken some pictures. I increased the size to 166 inches!! I'm pretty sure that's right, the movie was in 2:35:1 and was 65 inches tall so I think that's right. Anyway, it was great. It even made my sub and speakers sound better. Finally a picture to match a Captivator!!! Best movie experience I've ever had.


The brightness of the 8350 was less than I expected since I had to use Dynamic all night even with the lights off, how much brighter will it be with a screen? I don't want to have to use dynamic all the time. The clarity far exceeded my expectations. I seriously could have sat closer to the 166 inch screen and been even happier.


Now I have to decide if I'm going to get rid of my old tv.... problem is I wouldn't mind being even more immersed into a movie but if I move my seating position up I start getting some nasty nulls in the bass...


I'm also considering getting a 2:35:1 screen for my wall. I really want movies to be the biggest thing on the screen, not tv/sports. I don't think I'll have a problem just zooming in (or out, whichever) when I watch football and having it not fill up the sides of the screen. Is this crazy? Am I missing something here?


Anyway, 1:13 in the morning, have to get some sleep.


----------



## Impetus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21170410
> 
> 
> The brightness of the 8350 was less than I expected since I had to use Dynamic all night even with the lights off, how much brighter will it be with a screen? I don't want to have to use dynamic all the time. The clarity far exceeded my expectations. I seriously could have sat closer to the 166 inch screen and been even happier.
> 
> 
> Now I have to decide if I'm going to get rid of my old tv.... problem is I wouldn't mind being even more immersed into a movie but if I move my seating position up I start getting some nasty nulls in the bass...
> 
> 
> I'm also considering getting a 2:35:1 screen for my wall. I really want movies to be the biggest thing on the screen, not tv/sports. I don't think I'll have a problem just zooming in (or out, whichever) when I watch football and having it not fill up the sides of the screen. Is this crazy? Am I missing something here?
> 
> 
> Anyway, 1:13 in the morning, have to get some sleep.



1st thing I noticed was how great the image looks even with the tan walls. 2nd was the mess of wires! Which made me think of spaghetti, then that made me hungry --- gee thanks Carp, you're contributing to my late night binging!










Seriously, I am a projector newb as well. Been researching for months and being very patient awaiting the fall releases and possible price drops. I can venture a guess that those tan walls are muting the brightness enough to make you want dynamic mode. Experienced users should offer a better opinion.


As far as 2.35:1 goes, you can search monoprice (Multi-Format Frame Projection Screen) as a low cost option for masking. Carada has a much higher-priced version that you can use with other screens.


I'd just call AV Science Store for screen options and advice. Others that have, always recommend doing the same.


If you do order from monoprice, pick up some velcro cable ties .


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impetus* /forum/post/21170545
> 
> 
> 1st thing I noticed was how great the image looks even with the tan walls. 2nd was the mess of wires! Which made me think of spaghetti, then that made me hungry --- gee thanks Carp, you're contributing to my late night binging!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, I am a projector newb as well. Been researching for months and being very patient awaiting the fall releases and possible price drops. I can venture a guess that those tan walls are muting the brightness enough to make you want dynamic mode. Experienced users should offer a better opinion.
> 
> 
> As far as 2.35:1 goes, you can search monoprice (Multi-Format Frame Projection Screen) as a low cost option for masking. Carada has a much higher-priced version that you can use with other screens.
> 
> 
> I'd just call AV Science Store for screen options and advice. Others that have, always recommend doing the same.
> 
> 
> If you do order from monoprice, pick up some velcro cable ties .



Ha, yeah the spaghetti was all hidden behind the RP dinosaur so I didn't have to worry about it.







I definitely have a lot of clean up to do in here.


Thanks for the av science store advice, I'll check into it. I have some samples on the way from Da Lite as well. I guess I shouldn't be surprised that I prefer such a big screen, I do like to sit somewhat close in the movie theater.


If I end up not getting an electric screen and using the wall I won't be able to use my back wall shelf idea, I'll have to do a ceiling mount. To be honest that intimidates me a bit. I'm not a DIY kind of guy at all. My last attempt at DIY was replacing the windows in the living room. I got through it but it was not easy or pretty!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21171189
> 
> 
> Ha, yeah the spaghetti was all hidden behind the RP dinosaur so I didn't have to worry about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely have a lot of clean up to do in here.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the av science store advice, I'll check into it. I have some samples on the way from Da Lite as well. I guess I shouldn't be surprised that I prefer such a big screen, I do like to sit somewhat close in the movie theater.
> 
> 
> If I end up not getting an electric screen and using the wall I won't be able to use my back wall shelf idea, I'll have to do a ceiling mount. To be honest that intimidates me a bit. I'm not a DIY kind of guy at all. My last attempt at DIY was replacing the windows in the living room. I got through it but it was not easy or pretty!



Don't forget to compensate for screen borders when calculating your screen size.

Carada will also send you samples.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

There's been several who have responded with suggestions for ceiling mounting from a $20 DIY project using plexiglass (or MDF), to shelf-mounted, to what I'm using: the Chief RPA-168 . Installing the mount and the PJ to the ceiling is a simple task (the 8350 uses Metric 4mm, or M4 x 9 threading for its mounting), routing your cabling (which in today's technology is simply a power and a HDMI cable) can be a bit more taxing based on distance and astetics... Also, consider a UPS for the PJ as you never want it switched off without allowing its cooling fan to run, or in general, subjecting the bulb to utility power surges/variations. There was this one post where the guy had a "hush box" with plenty of room for a small UPS inside it if that would be desirable. (Most of us would agree, the noise these make don't warrant such sound-damping measures like they did 10 years back.)


I'm glad you've seen how grand watching _anything_ on a PJ runs circles around anything else - even a huge 65" Mitsu! I was going to frame in a (false) wall to "recess mount" my 45" Mitsu back in 2003, but soon realized the Electric screen expense and smaller room traded against bulb life was a no brainer and went with a fixed screen and full-sized room! I've never regretted that decision! In fact, A buddy of mine was building his Theatre room (and one at his dad's) so they researched specialized combinations of wall paint - I did mine with 3 coats of primer followed with 3 coats of Behr Super White... once trimmed/framed it looks fantastic!


I've been very happy with my Sonys and this Epson is even brighter! I'm using Cinema and Eco mode per the ProjectorCentral Review , specifically they wrote:


> Quote:
> In any of these preset calibrations, lamp power can be reduced to bring light output down by 22% and increase lamp life. For example, the Cinema preset is normally 556 lumens, and in Eco mode this drops to 434 lumens. If you have a light-controlled room, this is just about perfect for a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen--the image is brilliant and punchy without being so bright as to cause eyestrain or headaches.



I'd agree that your tan wall isn't giving you the proper reproduction, toning whites to tan and creating a bias in your assessment of what is White / what is Black. Inspect/patch & sand that wall, grab some paint and do as I did - it's cheap and effective! Besides, wouldn't a fixed 119" diagonal screen cost in the $900-1100 range... and, if you don't like the results you haven't made a huge investment!


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21172053
> 
> 
> There's been several who have responded with suggestions for ceiling mounting from a $20 DIY project using plexiglass (or MDF), to shelf-mounted, to what I'm using: the Chief RPA-168 . Installing the mount and the PJ to the ceiling is a simple task (the 8350 uses Metric 4mm, or M4 x 9 threading for its mounting), routing your cabling (which in today's technology is simply a power and a HDMI cable) can be a bit more taxing based on distance and astetics... Also, consider a UPS for the PJ as you never want it switched off without allowing its cooling fan to run, or in general, subjecting the bulb to utility power surges/variations. There was this one post where the guy had a "hush box" with plenty of room for a small UPS inside it if that would be desirable. (Most of us would agree, the noise these make don't warrant such sound-damping measures like they did 10 years back.)
> 
> 
> I'm glad you've seen how grand watching _anything_ on a PJ runs circles around anything else - even a huge 65" Mitsu! I was going to frame in a (false) wall to "recess mount" my 45" Mitsu back in 2003, but soon realized the Electric screen expense and smaller room traded against bulb life was a no brainer and went with a fixed screen and full-sized room! I've never regretted that decision! In fact, A buddy of mine was building his Theatre room (and one at his dad's) so they researched specialized combinations of wall paint - I did mine with 3 coats of primer followed with 3 coats of Behr Super White... once trimmed/framed it looks fantastic!
> 
> 
> I've been very happy with my Sonys and this Epson is even brighter! I'm using Cinema and Eco mode per the ProjectorCentral Review , specifically they wrote:
> 
> 
> I'd agree that your tan wall isn't giving you the proper reproduction, toning whites to tan and creating a bias in your assessment of what is White / what is Black. Inspect/patch & sand that wall, grab some paint and do as I did - it's cheap and effective! Besides, wouldn't a fixed 119" diagonal screen cost in the $900-1100 range... and, if you don't like the results you haven't made a huge investment!



Thanks Andrew, I decided to go ahead a paint a screen and I posted over in the DIY screen forum. So you watch your projector as your everyday tv? How often should I expect to replace the bulb?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

*I have a 4 year average of 89 hours per month* - which is up since I had my first Sony at around 68~69 hours per month. When it's new you tend to be impressed with your new toy and use it a lot... Or, you could be overly concerned with lamp hour usage and tend NOT to watch it for primetime TV and save it for movies. I think my usage is up due to having football parties, my daughter using it more (since I developed the recording capability on my PC), and I'm not as concerned about bulb life given my usage record. In fact, I bought the 8350 _instead of_ buying a new bulb for my Sony for $300. The fact is, I have 3,7xx hours on the Sony bulb and that's about $8.00/month in bulb expense (plus power, etc.) which is pretty cheap. YMMV










This Epson claims 4,000 hours on their bulb although their claim isn't clear as to which power mode - they DO claim to extend bulb life in Eco mode, so should we expect 4,000+ Eco savings before we replace the bulb? I'd expect that's some 4 years+ away for me at this point.


One last point: I have a 30" in my bedroom I watch before work and as background (with a sleep timer) at bedtime. My projector is in a dedicated room in the basement... I may head there with food at dinner, or after eating out, or not at all for any given night. In your case, you have a 65" and I'd guess whatever your viewing habits were with it would remain unchanged on the PJ... or would you have reason to suspect something different? (Remember, a PJ makes for a GREAT football party!)


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21172964
> 
> *I have a 4 year average of 89 hours per month* - which is up since I had my first Sony at around 68~69 hours per month. When it's new you tend to be impressed with your new toy and use it a lot... Or, you could be overly concerned with lamp hour usage and tend NOT to watch it for primetime TV and save it for movies. I think my usage is up due to having football parties, my daughter using it more (since I developed the recording capability on my PC), and I'm not as concerned about bulb life given my usage record. In fact, I bought the 8350 _instead of_ buying a new bulb for my Sony for $300. The fact is, I have 3,7xx hours on the Sony bulb and that's about $8.00/month in bulb expense (plus power, etc.) which is pretty cheap. YMMV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Epson claims 4,000 hours on their bulb although their claim isn't clear as to which power mode - they DO claim to extend bulb life in Eco mode, so should we expect 4,000+ Eco savings before we replace the bulb? I'd expect that's some 4 years+ away for me at this point.
> 
> 
> One last point: I have a 30" in my bedroom I watch before work and as background (with a sleep timer) at bedtime. My projector is in a dedicated room in the basement... I may head there with food at dinner, or after eating out, or not at all for any given night. In your case, you have a 65" and I'd guess whatever your viewing habits were with it would remain unchanged on the PJ... or would you have reason to suspect something different? (Remember, a PJ makes for a GREAT football party!)



My viewing habits would not really change. I usually have the 65" on for a couple of hours each weeknight and anywhere from none to 8 hours on Saturday, and all day on Sunday. It makes me sound like a couch potato, but I am a pretty active person.


Thanks for that info, that really helps as far as what to expect. I was expecting to need another bulb in a year if I get rid of my other tv, and it sounds like it won't even be that often so I think I'm good to go.


----------



## wickedg8gt

My fellow 8350 owners. Finally after a year of using a diy painted wall screen im going to buy a 135in fixed screen. I want to achieve a better picture and more professional look. My 8350 is 8ft high and between 15-17ft from the wall. I have one window but its got blackout curtains and surrounding walls are white. I have no knowledge of projector screens and any suggestions would definetly be greatly appreciated. I really dont want to pay more for one than i did for the 8350 itself.


----------



## vullcan

What kind of a screen did you paint? You'll be hard pressed to find a screen that looks nicer and displays the image better than a DIY screen like Mississippi man creates for LESS than $1000. Did you try Silver Fire paint?


----------



## wickedg8gt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/21173610
> 
> 
> What kind of a screen did you paint? You'll be hard pressed to find a screen that looks nicer and displays the image better than a DIY screen like Mississippi man creates for LESS than $1000. Did you try Silver Fire paint?



No. I just have a neutral grey diy screen.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/21173555
> 
> 
> My fellow 8350 owners. Finally after a year of using a diy painted wall screen im going to buy a 135in fixed screen. I want to achieve a better picture and more professional look. My 8350 is 8ft high and between 15-17ft from the wall. I have one window but its got blackout curtains and surrounding walls are white. I have no knowledge of projector screens and any suggestions would definetly be greatly appreciated. I really dont want to pay more for one than i did for the 8350 itself.



Hey...I know you! I don't what level of DIY Build your current Screen is, but I'm a tellin' ya this....t'aint no way you'll get a 135"er Fixed for under the cost of the 8350 that'll compete with what you can accomplish with a good DIY build. I knows this for a fact so iffin' ya wanna have sumpthin' special to mate up with that PJ at a price that won't leave ya gaspin' fer air, ya jus better getcherself back over to wshere ya used to was.....


Every screen I've done for a 8350 (16 as of last count) has been DIY and ain't a one of 'em but a world's better than MFG.


Repent...............and be saved.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wickedg8gt* /forum/post/21173617
> 
> 
> No. I just have a neutral grey diy screen.



Beat to the punch again! But more important....what he said...That's right.......


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21157040
> 
> 
> Maybe we can do a quick poll? Can everyone below this post mention if your 8350 iris is silent, audible, or loud please?



Sooo, now that things have quietened down, how about we have that poll?


Actually, I'm going to create a proper one right now.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1371698


----------



## michaelv

Finally, i got pj set up and screen is coming. I ordered Focupix white 105" 16:9 screen. Not the top, but it fits my bill.


I was just wondering where you buy home theater seat? any recommendation style and place to order.


Sorry that i don't know which forum to ask for so i give it a try here. Hopefully, some of you here can give me suggestion.


thanks.


----------



## jbannow

Hey everyone, got my 8350 ceiling mounted last night and I'm ready to calibrate it. Does anyone have recommended settings for best video quality? Not worried about color settings as all of those will be calibrated independently. For instance, eco mode on or off, auto-iris, etc.


I'd like something to start out with, before I go into calibrating tonight with my DVE Blu-ray.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21189455
> 
> 
> Finally, i got pj set up and screen is coming. I ordered Focupix white 105" 16:9 screen. Not the top, but it fits my bill.
> 
> 
> I was just wondering where you buy home theater seat? any recommendation style and place to order.
> 
> 
> Sorry that i don't know which forum to ask for so i give it a try here. Hopefully, some of you here can give me suggestion.
> 
> 
> thanks.


 http://www.interiorexpress.com/home-...r-seating.html


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *michaelv* /forum/post/21189455
> 
> 
> I was just wondering where you buy home theater seat? any recommendation style and place to order.



IMO, Berkline is number one for HT seating and if on sale it's reasonably priced. Berk is very durable also, I've had my 6 black leather (090 model) for 6yrs now and no signs of wear at all.... used almost every day. I strongly rec electric recline feature because you can set it at any point in the recline range and it won't move when you shift your weight. My experience with manual reclines is they move easily and sometimes you can't get them to stay where *you* want them.


----------



## vullcan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbannow* /forum/post/21189754
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, got my 8350 ceiling mounted last night and I'm ready to calibrate it. Does anyone have recommended settings for best video quality? Not worried about color settings as all of those will be calibrated independently. For instance, eco mode on or off, auto-iris, etc.
> 
> 
> I'd like something to start out with, before I go into calibrating tonight with my DVE Blu-ray.



Just dive right in with the bluray, its good enough out of the box that the default settings are a good starting point.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Hi MM, et al. I have a bit of a crisis going on and could really use some help. I installed an 8350 along with a Sony BDP-S570 player and a DaLite High Power 103" screen late last year in our vacation villa on the Caribbean island of St. John (US Virgin Islands). We rent the place out by the week when we aren't there. The install was easy and whenever we go down, everything has worked fine. Right now, we are 1600 miles away and working with a local maintenance guy. We had guests check in on Tuesday for a week, and the local guy said that the projector wasn't working. He had forgotten that I have guests turn off the rear power switch after using the projector, so that seemed easy to deal with. However, when the projector was powered up, there was a "HDMI not supported" message at the bottom of the screen. My full video circuit included two sources (the above BD player and an HD cable box), which connected to a Sewell 2:1 box, and then off to the projector over a 25' HDMI cable. My first action was to bypass the Sewell box and connect the BD player straight to the projector. Same message. I then had the guy move the projector closer, and use a different 6' HDMI cable. Same message. I switched to the projector's second HDMI input and switched the source. Same message. I called Epson, and they suggested reducing the bit depth. I found the setting (under "Deep Color", and had the guy turn it off. It also occurred to me to have him turn off the 3D capability. Same message. My guests would really like to use the projector, but remote debugging is tough, so I am turning to the forum. Any possible help would be greatly appreciated.


By the way, here's a link to our place: www.coconutsvilla.com . There might be an issue with the link; if you get a "Can't find URL", click "Try again".


Kevin


----------



## MississippiMan

First try using the HDMI #2 Port. (or the #1 if #2 is already the one in use.) The Port in use may have a buggered up conductor, and it only take on conducter out of them all to royally screw things up.


Also, changing the PJ's input resolution to 720i / 1080i can at least resolve the 1080p impasse as far as not getting a authorized handshake.


Usually though...a "Handshake issue" simply means the screen keeps flashing on-off. If the suggested "fix" does not work...running a Component Cord until later when you can get deeper into it without disappointing the Renters is the only other possibility to be able to by-pass the HDMI-snafu..


Or...send me a ticket please....asap. I'll bring another PJ and we'll just be done with it.


----------



## mcnizzel

as always mississippi man has good suggestions there. It may just be that your PJ isn't working properly either. Both hdmi #1 and #2 inputs obviously have different physical plugs, but inside they share some circuits. If there is a problem in the PJ downstream of the plugs themselves it won't make any difference to switch back and forth. His suggestions of running an alternate standard cable (component in this case) is the quickest way to work around this, but ultimately you may have to take advantage of that sweet warranty of yours. I don't know what the shipping time is like to get the island, but really that might be something to go ahead with anyway, since you won't have to give up the PJ you have until the second unit comes. not sure if your local guy would be up for swapping them on the mount though....


good luck at any rate!

I second the ticket down there, I'd be happy to go anytime.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

MM and mcnizzel: Thanks for weighing in. As mentioned in my email ("I switched to the projector's second HDMI input and switched the source. Same message."), I did consider a buggered connector, but that didn't resolve the issue. Cable vendors, along with all other vendors, don't ship to the VI, so by the time that I had a component cable shipped to me, and then down there (no overnight service is available), these folks will have left. I have other guests for the Thanksgiving week, and they are friends here in town, so I could hand them a cable. Mostly I wanted to know if, in the years that this thread has been active, if such a "HDMI not supported" has come up, and what the root cause and corrective actions were. It sounds as though it is rare if not a one-off error message (please correct me if this is wrong). I just went through the manual and I don't see any way to set the resolution to 720 with a BD player over HDMI; perhaps you were suggesting that I switch to component and this comes along for that ride.


I do have Sony BDP-S270's in each of the lower bedrooms; I guess the next step will be a source swap-out.


Alas, the budget doesn't support flying you in with a backup projector. Slightly disappointed guests are cheaper, but I would so like to resolve this.


Kevin


----------



## mcnizzel

do you have the same issue on the blu ray and the cable box?

If so I can't imagine both having issues at the same time. trying a different source may help narrow it down. You could set the video output resolution on the blu ray player to be lower, it may be worth a try. But if your cable box is having the same issue, its not spitting out 1080p either.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Mcnizzel: The cable boxes on St. John had all been SD up until May of this year. I jumped at the opportunity and so the great room cable box was an HD-DVR, but in yesterday's troubleshooting it was not responsive, so the guy swapped in an SD box from the kitchen. A replacement may be headed up to the villa today. As soon as it is there, or we get the guy to try another BD player, I will know more. I do have a surge suppressor on the projector, plus its AC power switch next to the cord is meant to only be turned on during use, so I don't think that it is an issue of having been zapped.


Is anyone aware of such a "HDMI not supported" message?


----------



## mcnizzel

Ok, god to know about the cable box. Trying another source is a good idea ( I know you're planning on it). The thing with a/v is that it can be like working on cars. Until its fixed it's impossible to guess how many problems there may be.


As for this being a common problem, I wouldn't say it is. I have heard of a few people getting the same message but not many. In those cases where they did get the same message and similar situation, they fixed it by subbing in a new and or higher quality cable. Although this seemed to fix the issue it remains to be seen how permanent the fix is. Other things to try are swapping or removing switches, splitters, receivers, slingbox etc anything that would be between the source and pj. I know you are trying this as well. Short of these suggestions I don't think there is much to do but a warranty swap.


I'd wait until u can try another source using hdmi before you get too carried away


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/21194110
> 
> 
> However, when the projector was powered up, there was a "HDMI not supported" message at the bottom of the screen.



Reset the 8350 to factory defaults.


Connect a *known good* HDMI cable (6-10 ft.) to the 8350 with a *known good* HDMI component (BD-Player or whatever). Try both HDMI-1 and 2 before giving up.


----------



## rakstr

For those of you that have used calibration discs, do you prefer the Disney WOW or DVE or something else???


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin McCarthy* /forum/post/21194548
> 
> 
> Is anyone aware of such a "HDMI not supported" message?



Sounds like there is a good chance that you'll need a replacement. Good thing Epson is awesome at issuing replacements!


Is the house open to the elements? I know often times, houses in the islands are. If so, I wonder if the humidity could play a factor? Have you had any issues with other electronics before?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21194880
> 
> 
> For those of you that have used calibration discs, do you prefer the Disney WOW or DVE or something else???



Try searching for "calibration" in the "search this thread" box. I know this topic was covered before somewhere in this thread.


----------



## Kevin McCarthy

Tesla1856: Thanks; resetting the projector to its default state is an excellent suggestion. Previous guests may have been mucking about, although I would be hard-pressed to figure out how they could have triggered this.


OSUDesi: The projector is in an indoor space, although French doors to the pool deck aren't that far away. I don't think that this should be related, but it is a reasonable question.


I can call the guests early this evening and ask them to try a few things. I will post the results.


Kevin


----------



## kawie01

My 8350 was flickering diuring netflix while logged on my ps3. I switxhed to my xbox360 and no flickering. Anyone know if this is due to a setting on my ps3?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21203346
> 
> 
> My 8350 was flickering diuring netflix while logged on my ps3. I switxhed to my xbox360 and no flickering. Anyone know if this is due to a setting on my ps3?



Are you using HDMI on both?

Is yes, try connecting the ps3 to the 360 HDMI cable to determine if it's a cable issue.


If not, try swapping out the him cable.


Also, is the ps3 direct or going through a receiver/box?


----------



## kawie01

Both are hdmi thru avr.


----------



## assassin

Hoping someone can help me out.


I have searched this thread and have seen that the RPA 168 mount and Peerless ACC 570 are often recommended as a low profile mount.


Can someone list links to the exact products for me? Thanks.


----------



## pcrx

Quick question - how long is the power cord and what gauge that comes stock with the 8350?


I will be doing a bookshelf mont and wonder if I will need to order up a longer cord. I assume is uses a standard 3 prong PC connector like these:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10228#1022801


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assassin* /forum/post/21207801
> 
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out.
> 
> 
> I have searched this thread and have seen that the RPA 168 mount and Peerless ACC 570 are often recommended as a low profile mount.
> 
> 
> Can someone list links to the exact products for me? Thanks.



Sent you the info via PM, so if you wind up happy, share the love on here.


----------



## bills2011

What are the better places where we can buy 8350? any price re?duction around thanksgiving


----------



## pcrx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bills2011* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are the better places where we can buy 8350? any price re?duction around thanksgiving



I am hoping for a deal to pop up as well. Seeing this PJ new for 899 makes it hard to shell out 1100 or more. Thinking about a Visual Apex package deal however. I like what I have read about their Vapex screens.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pcrx* /forum/post/21208296
> 
> 
> Quick question - how long is the power cord and what gauge that comes stock with the 8350?
> 
> 
> I will be doing a bookshelf mont and wonder if I will need to order up a longer cord. I assume is uses a standard 3 prong PC connector like these:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10228#1022801



The stock power cable is a 6ft standard PC power cable.


----------



## pcrx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The stock power cable is a 6ft standard PC power cable.



Thanks! Looks like I will need to order one a bit longer in advance.


----------



## the-pred

250 hours on my 8350 and I have a big green dust blob on my 8350. is the projector warranties against dust blobs for 2 years? If so do I need a copy of my invoice or will they just look at manufactor date?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21209817
> 
> 
> The stock power cable is a 6ft standard PC power cable.



That is odd. My power cable looks to be at least 8' long maybe more. I have not measured though.


----------



## pcrx

OK. Maybe this is the wrong place for this question but here it goes.


Looking at the 8350. However looking at the specs the 8100 seems to be the same PJ at a great price (yes I know its discontinued...)


These PJ's use the same lamp. Am I missing something as to what makes the 8350 worth the extra 400-500 bills?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pcrx* /forum/post/21211094
> 
> 
> OK. Maybe this is the wrong place for this question but here it goes.
> 
> 
> Looking at the 8350. However looking at the specs the 8100 seems to be the same PJ at a great price (yes I know its discontinued...)
> 
> 
> These PJ's use the same lamp. Am I missing something as to what makes the 8350 worth the extra 400-500 bills?



IIRC, the 8100 has organic panels and the 8350 has inorganic panels.


----------



## pcrx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21211100
> 
> 
> IIRC, the 8100 has organic panels and the 8350 has inorganic panels.



Ah... is this a real issue? Deal killer type issue?


----------



## msbklipsch

watching movie yesterday in cinema color mode

to me it looks like a overall blueish tint to the picture

using the recommended setting from projector central for the setting

using component for input

any suggestions on what to adjust?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msbklipsch* /forum/post/21211720
> 
> 
> watching movie yesterday in cinema color mode
> 
> to me it looks like a overall blueish tint to the picture
> 
> using the recommended setting from projector central for the setting
> 
> using component for input
> 
> any suggestions on what to adjust?



One of your component connections is loose or otherwise flaky!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pcrx* /forum/post/21211143
> 
> 
> Ah... is this a real issue? Deal killer type issue?



Organic panels are known(speculated) to deteriote over time.

So, it may depend on how old the projector is and how long you intent to use it.

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/p...me-cinema-8100


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21210850
> 
> 
> That is odd. My power cable looks to be at least 8' long maybe more. I have not measured though.



So I measured the cord after work. Mine is 9' long.


----------



## DavidCorbett

Anyone have a 133 inch plus screen size with their 8350? I would like to maybe go 133 or 140 inch maybe even bigger. What are some real life experiences with this projector and larger screens? I havent comitted yet to the Epson but it's looking good also thought about the LG Cf181d. I appreciate the feedback.


----------



## David_R

I'm hoping someone can explain what I'm seeing with my 8350, and tell me whether it's normal. It's hard to find the right words, but I might describe it as a "halo" or "fringe" when I look at white-on-black, such as on a geometry pattern. After looking at it for quite abit, I'm fairly well convinced it's not a convergence problem (convergence looks pretty good overall - maybe .5-1 pixel off). Also I don't think it's a focus problem because it's only to one side and I can see individual pixels distinctly.


Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a good picture of it, but I found this one previously in this thread, and it's fairly similar: http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd334/pacemaker1000/21032011384.jpg 


In that picture it's the blue-ish fuzziness going up. In my case it goes down and abit to the right, and is more white in color.


It seems to me like some type of optical effect, so I'm wondering if it's related to the lense shift? I am shifting down about 50% (lense is just above the top of the screen). Also, I'm projecting a 92" image from about 14' back, if that makes a difference.


Thanks in advance,

-- Dave


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21213074
> 
> 
> I'm hoping someone can explain what I'm seeing with my 8350, and tell me whether it's normal. It's hard to find the right words, but I might describe it as a "halo" or "fringe" when I look at white-on-black, such as on a geometry pattern. After looking at it for quite abit, I'm fairly well convinced it's not a convergence problem (convergence looks pretty good overall - maybe .5-1 pixel off). Also I don't think it's a focus problem because it's only to one side and I can see individual pixels distinctly.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a good picture of it, but I found this one previously in this thread, and it's fairly similar: http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/d...1032011384.jpg
> 
> 
> In that picture it's the blue-ish fuzziness going up. In my case it goes down and abit to the right, and is more white in color.
> 
> 
> It seems to me like some type of optical effect, so I'm wondering if it's related to the lense shift? I am shifting down about 50% (lense is just above the top of the screen). Also, I'm projecting a 92" image from about 14' back, if that makes a difference.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> -- Dave



Contrast too high perhaps??????


----------



## kaisergrendel

Looks like chromatic abberation. Either your lens got knocked, the lens shift is maxed out or the optics were poorly aligned. Sometimes called purple/blue fringing.


----------



## the-pred

What is the warranty on dust spots?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred* /forum/post/21214157
> 
> 
> What is the warranty on dust spots?



Dust Spots have a Unconditional Lifetime Warrantee. Unless tampered with or removed they should last the life of the unit.


Replacements are always N/C.


----------



## shizam

I just replaced my Panasonic AX200U with 2400 hours on the bulb with this projector.


Installation was easy, well, any difficulties were not the projectors fault










I was able to attach it to my peerless cieling mount without much effort, and it's located about 10 feet from a 100" Steward Grayhawk RS screen.


I've got it set to: eco mode bulb, cinema colors, iris - normal, super white, and adjusted the color temperature up to 7,000K.


The image is definitely sharper and more vibrant ( I guess the contrast? ) then my Panasonic. It also seems much brighter, but I'm assuming the bulb is responsible.


The blacks are more gray in my setup, but I'm assuming that's from reflections from the cieling/carpet/etc. Hopefully as the projector bulb dims it will generate some deeper blacks.


I think it was definitely worth the upgrade.


----------



## Marshall Karp

Here is an offbeat question. Can the 8350 focus to a screen size of about 20 inches across?


Thank you.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21214885
> 
> 
> Dust Spots have a Unconditional Lifetime Warrantee. Unless tampered with or removed they should last the life of the unit.
> 
> 
> Replacements are always N/C.



That right there is funny. I don't care who you are. And I won't quote that because if you don't know, it would not matter and we may end up laughing at the superior intellect.


----------



## joepaiii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marshall Karp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is an offbeat question. Can the 8350 focus to a screen size of about 20 inches across?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Why in the world would you want to do that? I believe it would if you placed it a foot or two away from the screen.


Joe


----------



## mcnizzel

not sure why you would want to do that but...

I was doing some setup with people in the room so I pointed it at a wall very near me to see the screen without disrupting everyone. It turns out you can focus up a comically small screen if you wanted.


----------



## imserious

I'm planning on buying the epson 8350 over black friday and trying to figure out where to mount based on fL and a few other factors. Planning on a 120" matte white 1.0 gain screen. Only plan to use at night, but cannot cover the walls of windows.


Option A would be to mount the PJ permanently over a high cabinet/partial wall at the back of the LV so that it is out of the way and I never have to move it. The lens shift/zoom will allow for this placement, but I'm concerned with fL. Distance is 20ft horizontal off center, vertical pretty close. Calculator shows 11 fL.


Option B would be to place the PJ on or under a coffee table that I don't have right now. Because I'm particular about furniture and likely will not find the perfect table, I will probably pull the PJ out when used and put into storage when not. Distance is 13 ft on center, but need vertical shift. Calculator shows 19 fL


I've been reading some people projecting a 120" image at 20ft, others saying you should be closest to the wide zoom range for max brightness. I know from a zoom range it works, but I don't want a dim image. I really want to go with Option A, but want to know what other people who have experience with the 8350 would recommend. I've attached a diagram to illustrate the situation.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21221035
> 
> 
> I'm planning on buying the epson 8350 over black friday and trying to figure out where to mount based on fL and a few other factors. Planning on a 120" matte white 1.0 gain screen. Only plan to use at night, but cannot cover the walls of windows.
> 
> 
> Option A would be to mount the PJ permanently over a high cabinet/partial wall at the back of the LV so that it is out of the way and I never have to move it. The lens shift/zoom will allow for this placement, but I'm concerned with fL. Distance is 20ft horizontal off center, vertical pretty close. Calculator shows 11 fL.
> 
> I've been reading some people projecting a 120" image at 20ft, others saying you should be closest to the wide zoom range for max brightness. I know from a zoom range it works, but I don't want a dim image. I really want to go with Option A, but want to know what other people who have experience with the 8350 would recommend. I've attached a diagram to illustrate the situation.



Hello imserious. I do not know if you have seen the pictures of my 8350 on a cabinet but it clearly shows I am about at max lens shift to the left. I am projecting onto a 120" 1.1 matte white from about 19'. My PJ is offset to the right with the lens about 10" from the right side of the screen and about 20" below the top. I have no problems with image brightness with that setup, especially at night. I have watched programming with a light or two on but obviously it is better when the room is darker. I do not have a blacked out batcave.


Now what does concern me is the placement of your unit from looking at the diagram. Since you will be displaying your image over the seating area you will need to have it high enough so heads do not interfere with the bottom of the picture. That places the PJ in the area where the shift becomes limited. I don't want to insult anybody here but think of the total offset as a rectangle. With the lens dead center of the screen, you can move vertical or horizontal the full amount as long as it is only one of them. Once you adjust both you cut the total adjustment of both. So basically draw a line in each corner of your rectangle such that you have made triangles in each corner and now instead of a rectangle you have an octagon to illustrate the lens shift. Probably not the best explanation ever but if you download the user manual page 27 and what I said will make it clear what I am talking about.


Having said all of that, since my setup is very similar to your intended one, just reversed to the other side, if you give me your intended setup measurements, that is center of lens to side and top of screen, I will test the shift adjustment to see if it can be done. Again, in your diagram it looks like the PJ will be placed outside the screen to the left and with the lens being on the left that makes it worse. But I will test your measurements tonight if you like.


----------



## imserious

Wow, M2C. That's super generous. I'll try to get the measurements when I get home and get back to you. And yes you are right. If I remember correctly the PJ sits to the left of the screen outside the outer left edge. The head clearance is not an issue. The cabinet is very high up... I'll measure that, too. I had no idea the H and V lens shift were linked. Good to know!


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21221636
> 
> 
> Wow, M2C. That's super generous. I'll try to get the measurements when I get home and get back to you. And yes you are right. If I remember correctly the PJ sits to the left of the screen outside the outer left edge. The head clearance is not an issue. The cabinet is very high up... I'll measure that, too. I had no idea the H and V lens shift were linked. Good to know!



The concern I have for your option B/coffee table placement is that unless you place the projector in the exact same spot and the coffee table is never moved, you would have to make minor adjustments to your focus/zoom settings every time you want to use the projector.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21222199
> 
> 
> The concern I have for your option B/coffee table placement is that unless you place the projector in the exact same spot and the coffee table is never moved, you would have to make minor adjustments to your focus/zoom settings every time you want to use the projector.



This kind of thing goes quicker than getting the PJ out and hooking it up for the most part. Even folks that have lens caps have to mess with focus and shift at times as well.


----------



## ERuiz

Anyone that has initiated an RMA process for the 8350, could you please post what is the best number to call to get this started with no hassles?


My 8350 has reached 1190 hours and there are too many issues popping up that are starting to distract our viewing. Thanks!


----------



## imserious

M2C, here are my measurements also taking into account the lens position on the PJ itself.


Width - the lens will be 22" outside the left edge of the screen. I didn't think it was going to be so bad until I calculated from where the lens actually is. the PJ is pretty wide at 17.7" and I estimated that the lens is about 13.25" from the right edge.


Height - the lens is 5" below the top edge of the screen. I'm hoping this is a little better news.


I'm assuming you can test this from the right side instead of from the left like mine is setup. I sure appreciate the help. Let me know what you find out!


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/21224171
> 
> 
> Anyone that has initiated an RMA process for the 8350, could you please post what is the best number to call to get this started with no hassles?
> 
> 
> My 8350 has reached 1190 hours and there are too many issues popping up that are starting to distract our viewing. Thanks!



There should be a customer care card that came with your PJ with all the stuff. It is like a card.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21225419
> 
> 
> M2C, here are my measurements also taking into account the lens position on the PJ itself.
> 
> 
> Width - the lens will be 22" outside the left edge of the screen. I didn't think it was going to be so bad until I calculated from where the lens actually is. the PJ is pretty wide at 17.7" and I estimated that the lens is about 13.25" from the right edge.
> 
> 
> Height - the lens is 5" below the top edge of the screen. I'm hoping this is a little better news.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming you can test this from the right side instead of from the left like mine is setup. I sure appreciate the help. Let me know what you find out!



imserious, that 22" is not lookng good my friend. I will try to test it a bit later when I fire up the PJ. Your 13.25" guestimate is pretty close to what a quick measure shows on my unit. The 5" number is not helping either.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21222401
> 
> 
> This kind of thing goes quicker than getting the PJ out and hooking it up for the most part. Even folks that have lens caps have to mess with focus and shift at times as well.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21222199
> 
> 
> The concern I have for your option B/coffee table placement is that unless you place the projector in the exact same spot and the coffee table is never moved, you would have to make minor adjustments to your focus/zoom settings every time you want to use the projector.



yeah, i've had the same concerns. want it to be as user friendly as possible, esp for the wife. i read somewhere that someone has been doing just this for over a year without issue. kind of a last resort for me.


----------



## ERuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21225464
> 
> 
> There should be a customer care card that came with your PJ with all the stuff. It is like a card.



Oh ok, I guess I will have to look for the box in the attic. Thanks.


UPDATE: I found the box and there was a credit card style card that reads PrivateLine Tech Support and it says person to person support. I guess this is where I call?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ERuiz* /forum/post/21225661
> 
> 
> Oh ok, I guess I will have to look for the box in the attic. Thanks.
> 
> 
> UPDATE: I found the box and there was a credit card style card that reads PrivateLine Tech Support and it says person to person support. I guess this is where I call?



That would be my guess from what I have read. Have not had to use mine yet.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21225567
> 
> 
> yeah, i've had the same concerns. want it to be as user friendly as possible, esp for the wife. i read somewhere that someone has been doing just this for over a year without issue. kind of a last resort for me.



OK, I am doing some calculations right now imserious, I have no intention of moving my unit for this test. I will simply shift the image to mimick your setup and measure the change from my screen and see if it will work. Looking in the manual the unit can shift 1/2 a screen width with no vertical shift. That means 52.5" on a 120" dia screen. So 22" off is less than half of 52.5", so far so good. The unit will also shift up or down as much as 96% of the 59" vertical axis so 56.4" but you need 51.4". Let's cut to the chase here, with your vertical shift requirement you are very close to maximum shift of the unit. The manual says that at max vertical shift, which your situation is pretty much at for all intents and purposes, the maximum shift in the horizontal plane is 9%. I do not have to do any further math here to realize that your proposed setup will not work. We are in the cutoff corner of the rectangle I talked about earlier. Let's just guess that you have 12% of usable horizontal shift with the vertical shift, that is .12x52.5 which comes in at 6.3". Not even close. So if there is something that can give in your setup I would be happy to test that but like I said in my other post, my unit is about at max shift and the center of my lens is within the screen in the vertical and horizontal axis. Guess I could have done the math on this but I did not have your numbers. Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.


Edit: You have the numbers to calculate. Take a look at your proposed setup and see if the PJ can come down some and or the screen can go up and over a bit. I little here and there makes a large difference in these corners of the shift area.


----------



## imserious

M2C, If I need max vertical shift, I am assuming then that the image shoots up from the base of the PJ, thus requiring the max shift south. Again, I was thinking the image shot straight and that I would only have to shift halfway down. If I have to shift almost 100% down, what about placing the pj upside down? Would that put the image almost dead on vertically?


----------



## Lindros88

Does anybody know if you can use an 8350 lamp in the 9350 pro cinema? Thanks.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/21227343
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if you can use an 8350 lamp in the 9350 pro cinema? Thanks.



You definitely can. All non-Ensemble model Epson Powerlite Home Cinema projectors from the 6100 up use the same E-Torl lamp , model V13H010L49


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21227316
> 
> 
> M2C, If I need max vertical shift, I am assuming then that the image shoots up from the base of the PJ, thus requiring the max shift south. Again, I was thinking the image shot straight and that I would only have to shift halfway down. If I have to shift almost 100% down, what about placing the pj upside down? Would that put the image almost dead on vertically?



All measurements assume a starting point of the lens being centered to the center of the screen. From there you shift up/down and left/right. There is no offset on the 8350. It starts dead center on the screen. But wait a minute, I believe I made a math error. Let me check.


YES, I made a math error, go figure. A 59" high screen with the lens 5" from top leaves 54" of screen below the lens. Since you would then only need to move the pic up 24.5" (59"/2-5"), that is less than half of the allowable max shift up. This will free up more side shift. Let me crank up the PJ and have a look.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Well, sorry, did not even come close to making that happen. To be honest I am not for off of the limit myself due to having shift both down and left at the same time.


Edit: turning the PJ upside down will only net you about 8" and annoyance of not having the buttons available. Can you raise the screen and move it to the left at all ?


----------



## Kilgore

imserious, here's a good question...where are your playback devices located? (cable/satellite box, Blu-ray/DVD player, game console, etc).


----------



## tenring

I've done a lot of reading and know that my finally-completed dedicated HT room is going to get an 8350.

I've set it up so I can throw anywhere from ~13 to ~20 feet. (Will be ceiling mounted.)

The Epson calculator says for my 125" screen I can throw anywhere from 12 to 26 feet.

So no problem...

But what is optimum for the best and brightest image? Right in the middle, which would be ~19 feet?

Any advice appreciated.

[If it matters the lens will be dead-on L-R and probably a few inches above the top of the screen. Also if it matters, our useage will cover movies in a pretty dark environment, football with some light on, and some xbox use for the kids.]


----------



## fitbrit

According to MississippiMan, if I recall correctly, you'll get the best and brightest by having it as close as possible. That's what I do with my 120" screen. It's around 12.5' away.


----------



## hraynor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21227380
> 
> 
> You definitely can. All non-Ensemble model Epson Powerlite Home Cinema projectors from the 6100 up use the same E-Torl lamp , model V13H010L49



BTW - the newest models (3010, 5010, and 6010) do use a new lamp, however, so this is no longer the case. (at least the lamp assembly is different, not sure about the bulb itself, but assume that is different as well (not that many people replace the bulb without replacing the whole assembly)).


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21227422
> 
> 
> Well, sorry, did not even come close to making that happen. To be honest I am not for off of the limit myself due to having shift both down and left at the same time.
> 
> 
> Edit: turning the PJ upside down will only net you about 8" and annoyance of not having the buttons available. Can you raise the screen and move it to the left at all ?



hmm. I can't raise the screen because of the ceiling/beam. I CAN move the screen to the left, but it will be off center and my OCD will not allow for that.


thanks for checking... it sounds like I will need to go coffee table or behind the sofa mount. Both will require setting up and taking down after each use. I guess I don't have to route new cables to make this happen, so install will be a breeze.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21227569
> 
> 
> imserious, here's a good question...where are your playback devices located? (cable/satellite box, Blu-ray/DVD player, game console, etc).



Everything will be under the screen. BUT, I guess an option is to have the PJ only connected to the blueray player and have the BR setup right next to the PJ. That wouldn't be so bad as you'd have BR and Netflix.


Does this open up some kind of possibility I didn't think of?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21229615
> 
> 
> Everything will be under the screen. BUT, I guess an option is to have the PJ only connected to the blueray player and have the BR setup right next to the PJ. That wouldn't be so bad as you'd have BR and Netflix.
> 
> 
> Does this open up some kind of possibility I didn't think of?



Well, in any case, you will have to run a long HDMI cable if you put the PJ on that back cabinet. Is ceiling mounting the PJ out of the question? You would have to run the HDMI along the ceiling, plus some extension cable for power, as the Epson poower cord is 8 feet long at most. If you can ceiling mount, all your problems are solved.


The other possibility is to put up a shelf directly behind your sofa facing the screen. You could even put all your audio/video equipment on it for easy access. You could then place the PJ on top of the shelf. The PJ only needs to be 5-6 feet high.


One final possibility is to put the PJ on an end table to the right of your sofa, facing the screen.


I think that, in descending order, your best solutions for best placement/ease of use are:


1: Shelf behind sofa

2: Ceiling mount

3: Coffee table

4: End table

5: Back cabinet


If you are mostly concerned about best lumen output, the I would put things in this order:


1: Ceiling mount

2: Coffee table

3: Shelf behind sofa

4: End table

5: Back cabinet


----------



## imserious

Thanks for the input. Cabinet is the only real set it and forget it option, so all the other options will require some setup each time I use. ceiling mount is not an option since it is a mainly a LV and not a dedicated HT. cabinet behind couch is not really an option since the couch floats in the middle of the room. I did think about getting a platform though, that I could setup and breakdown, but again... more work. The end table idea is actually an option.


Somehow I got to thinking I might want a 2.35 screen since my restriction is height, not width. Looking at a 118" wide screen, so I think lumens will be my #1 concern now. Probably going to go with coffee table and then experiment from there.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21230695
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Cabinet is the only real set it and forget it option, so all the other options will require some setup each time I use. ceiling mount is not an option since it is a mainly a LV and not a dedicated HT. cabinet behind couch is not really an option since the couch floats in the middle of the room. I did think about getting a platform though, that I could setup and breakdown, but again... more work. The end table idea is actually an option.
> 
> 
> Somehow I got to thinking I might want a 2.35 screen since my restriction is height, not width. Looking at a 118" wide screen, so I think lumens will be my #1 concern now. Probably going to go with coffee table and then experiment from there.



If you aren't looking for a permanent solution, coffee table is an excellent option. The lens shift on the 8350 will let you position the image in seconds. You plop the PJ on the coffee table, use lens shift, focus and you're in business. You'll maximize your lumen output as well by zooming out completely and moving the PJ closer to the screen.


----------



## Mikes2cents

Yeah coffee table will work fine and then you can play around with the PJ. *Again, my power cord is 9' long.*


----------



## David_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21213151
> 
> 
> Contrast too high perhaps??????



I don't think so. To double check, I adjusted the contrast all the way down, and (other than everything getting dimmer) there was no change in the amount of fringing.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21213210
> 
> 
> Looks like chromatic abberation. Either your lens got knocked, the lens shift is maxed out or the optics were poorly aligned. Sometimes called purple/blue fringing.



I do use a lot of down lense-shift, but I that doesn't seem to affect it. I re-centered the lense shift, and that did not seem to change the amount of fringing. I think that the fringing is different in different parts of the image, though. Also, the fringing sometimes starts out more white, and then turns blue/purple. Size is usually in the range of 1-4 pixels worth total.


In your opinion, is the amount of fringing shown in that photo abnormal? Is it something worth trying an exchange through Epson? Or is it small potatoes compared to other potential problems?


Thanks,

-- Dave


----------



## tenring




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21232824
> 
> 
> In your opinion, is the amount of fringing shown in that photo abnormal?



I don't own the 8350 yet (next week or so I intend to) but if that is normal I am going to rethink this...that looks bad.


Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21232824
> 
> 
> In your opinion, is the amount of fringing shown in that photo abnormal? Is it something worth trying an exchange through Epson? Or is it small potatoes compared to other potential problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -- Dave



How does it look from a little ways back? The best thing you can do to combat "fringing" is to make sure your projector is as square to the screen as possible.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21232824
> 
> 
> I don't think so. To double check, I adjusted the contrast all the way down, and (other than everything getting dimmer) there was no change in the amount of fringing.



The Contrast setting should not affect this. It simply adjusts the white level. An extreme contrast setting will crush whites but shouldn't cause smearing like this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21232824
> 
> 
> I do use a lot of down lense-shift, but I that doesn't seem to affect it. I re-centered the lense shift, and that did not seem to change the amount of fringing. I think that the fringing is different in different parts of the image, though. Also, the fringing sometimes starts out more white, and then turns blue/purple. Size is usually in the range of 1-4 pixels worth total.
> 
> 
> In your opinion, is the amount of fringing shown in that photo abnormal? Is it something worth trying an exchange through Epson? Or is it small potatoes compared to other potential problems?



If neutral lens shift position doesn't reduce the problem, you have a poorly made lens. For this problem, I would definitely seek to exchange it for a new unit if your store guarantee isn't expired. Refer to a picture of my unit at max lens shift below. The blue fringing is much more controlled, and virtually imperceptible at viewing distance. The apparent blurriness is just soft focus as I use a roll-up screen without a fixed position.


There's also a chance that something else is wrong optically and the position of the blue and red panels are simply coloring the smears. If your lens is zoomed all the way out (largest image possible), try zooming in and see if that changes anything.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tenring* /forum/post/21232867
> 
> 
> I don't own the 8350 yet (next week or so I intend to) but if that is normal I am going to rethink this...that looks bad.
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.



Tenring, I've followed this thread from around page 60 and I can tell you this problem has only been mentioned once or twice. It's not common by any indication.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21233271
> 
> 
> How does it look from a little ways back? The best thing you can do to combat "fringing" is to make sure your projector is as square to the screen as possible.



Based on what I know about optics, I'm not sure if this would help besides aligning the focal plane to the screen.


----------



## Marshall Karp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joepaiii* /forum/post/21217896
> 
> 
> Why in the world would you want to do that? I believe it would if you placed it a foot or two away from the screen.
> 
> 
> Joe



Looking at using this in a portable planetarium for space shows. Need the projector to focus on a 26 spherical mirror for fulldome immersion effect.


Thanks.


----------



## David_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21235404
> 
> 
> If neutral lens shift position doesn't reduce the problem, you have a poorly made lens. For this problem, I would definitely seek to exchange it for a new unit if your store guarantee isn't expired. Refer to a picture of my unit at max lens shift below. The blue fringing is much more controlled, and virtually imperceptible at viewing distance. The apparent blurriness is just soft focus as I use a roll-up screen without a fixed position.



Thanks for the info, kaisergrendal. I purchased from VA, and I'm well past the 4-hour any-reason return policy on that. My understanding is that Epson has a 30-day warranty advance-exchange policy. Do you think I'd be better off trying to exchange through VA, or go straight to Epson? I was figuring the latter would be the better route.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21235404
> 
> 
> There's also a chance that something else is wrong optically and the position of the blue and red panels are simply coloring the smears. If your lens is zoomed all the way out (largest image possible), try zooming in and see if that changes anything.



I'm about 14' back from a 92" image, so my zoom is abit on the telephoto size of mid-zoom. I tried zooming in all the way, and that did not change anything that I noticed.


BTW, if I look at the right angle, I do think I see a hairline scratch on one of the inner lenses. Don't know if that might have anything to do with this. I've also noticed that the fringing is much worse on the lower right corner than on the upper left corner. That is the same corner as the scratch, but I'm not sure I'm actually using that part of the lense do to the small zoom.


Thanks,

-- Dave


----------



## jsil

I would call VA asap about the problems you are having with lenses and see what happens. If they don't help you then call Epson.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21238038
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info, kaisergrendal. I purchased from VA, and I'm well past the 4-hour any-reason return policy on that. My understanding is that Epson has a 30-day warranty advance-exchange policy. Do you think I'd be better off trying to exchange through VA, or go straight to Epson? I was figuring the latter would be the better route.



While Epson's exchange policy is fantastic, you will be given a refurb unit in exchange instead of a brand new one. The general buzz here is that their QC for refurbs have a lower standard than factory units. Add to that the refurbs are probably units that have been returned for a previous problem, and there's a good chance you might trade yours for a unit that's even worse. That's not to say you definitely won't get a better unit, either.


4 hours seems awfully short to test a unit this complex, but check with VA anyway. A lens with a serious flaw isn't just "any-reason."



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21238038
> 
> 
> I'm about 14' back from a 92" image, so my zoom is abit on the telephoto size of mid-zoom. I tried zooming in all the way, and that did not change anything that I noticed.



Alright, I thought reducing the aperture size might have improved sharpness, but obviously something else is wrong.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R* /forum/post/21238038
> 
> 
> BTW, if I look at the right angle, I do think I see a hairline scratch on one of the inner lenses. Don't know if that might have anything to do with this. I've also noticed that the fringing is much worse on the lower right corner than on the upper left corner. That is the same corner as the scratch, but I'm not sure I'm actually using that part of the lense do to the small zoom.



I'm 90% sure one of your lens elements is skewed (tilted) off the optical path and badly diffracting one side of the image.


Hairline scratches and dust generally tend not to affect optical performance significantly until there's a large amount of it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsil* /forum/post/21238119
> 
> 
> I would call VA asap about the problems you are having with lenses and see what happens. If they don't help you then call Epson.



Seconded. Make sure they exchange the unit instead of try to service the lens, which in my photography experience tends to be a hit-and-miss affair.


----------



## Kilgore

kaisergrendel, I don't know if you have ever had any experience with Epson's customer service, but I have.


They are awesome.


They will not repair your unit. They will send you a replacement the very next day, and they will keep sending you a replacement until you are totally satisfied with the unit you get. Yes, they are refurbished, but if you have a problem with it, they will send another. And another. Until you are happy.


I should add that if you have purchased your PJ within 30 days, Epson WILL send you a brand new one...unless, of course, the model has been discontinued.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21238705
> 
> 
> kaisergrendel, I don't know if you have ever had any experience with Epson's customer service, but I have.
> 
> 
> They are awesome.
> 
> 
> They will not repair your unit. They will send you a replacement the very next day, and they will keep sending you a replacement until you are totally satisfied with the unit you get. Yes, they are refurbished, but if you have a problem with it, they will send another. And another. Until you are happy.



I agree, and I didn't say anything to contradict any of the above, but based on what I've read in this thread, I do think it's better in the case of Epson to first seek an exchange with a factory unit (if possible) before going down the refurb route. I suppose I should have mentioned that Epson will keep exchanging till you're happy, it just slipped my mind after mentioning their exchange policy is "fantastic".



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21238705
> 
> 
> I should add that if you have purchased your PJ within 30 days, Epson WILL send you a brand new one...unless, of course, the model has been discontinued.



If David_R's store guarantee has expired, then this would be the way to go.


----------



## Beherith

Hi guys, proud new owner of an 8350/tw3200 here, and I have a few questions:


- My lens shift adjustment knobs are very loose, they move 7mm in each direction before adjusting (like the dead space on a steering wheel).


- I get decreasing convergence from left to right on the screen, with about a 4-5 pixel wide horizontal blur that goes right when viewing black/white geometric pattern. Similar to the one on post #5787 but not nearly as bad. Ill try to post a pic later tonight when i get access to a proper camera.


- Also, on normal mode (not ECO) the fan has a high pitched periodic whine.


Are these issues normal? Should I send it back to the store (8 day money back) or get in touch with Epson service?


Thank you very much for the help you have provided so far in selecting the right projector for me, Im a long time lurker on these forums.


Im on HDMI of course, the PJ is centered and square on a 100 flat white wall.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beherith* /forum/post/21238798
> 
> 
> Hi guys, proud new owner of an 8350/tw3200 here, and I have a few questions:
> 
> 
> - My lens shift adjustment knobs are very loose, they move 7mm in each direction before adjusting (like the dead space on a steering wheel).



Normal. I can't see why this would be a problem unless you're retentive about getting the screen within less than 1-2mm of the borders.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beherith* /forum/post/21238798
> 
> 
> - I get decreasing convergence from left to right on the screen, with about a 4-5 pixel wide horizontal blur that goes right when viewing black/white geometric pattern. Similar to the one on post #5787 but not nearly as bad. Ill try to post a pic later tonight when i get access to a proper camera.



When you say "convergence", do you mean optically or are you referring to the alignment of the LCD panels? Big difference.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beherith* /forum/post/21238798
> 
> 
> - Also, on normal mode (not ECO) the fan has a high pitched periodic whine.



Could it be the fan moving faster when it reaches a certain temp?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beherith* /forum/post/21238798
> 
> 
> Are these issues normal? Should I send it back to the store (8 day money back) or get in touch with Epson service?



You'll need to give us a little more detail for the last two issues before we can advise you I'm afraid.


----------



## Beherith

Hi Kaiser!


Here is a closeup of the screen with zoom at the max











Here it is with less zoom:











The images are of a 1 pixel wide white lines.


Notice how the red pixels separate from the green and blue ones. This is also noticable in cyan-magenta-yellow lines. This is the convergence i meant. Also notice the horizontal blur.


Im ok with the knobs, Ill just fiddle with it once to set it so its ok.


The fan sound is ok, I can post a clip if anyone is interested though.


----------



## Smokin80

Hey everyone,


Been lurking this forum for a long time now. Used the forum when i bought my samsung B850 plasma and now again while researching projectors.


I am running a 112 inch reference 100 screen from EluneVision and of course the 8350 projecting from the ceiling at a distance of 12'8". I have it in a living room/kitchen area with lots of ambient light. The 2 windows (4x6 foot) right beside the screen i have blackout curtains on and that seems to work fine. In broad daylight with the projector on dynamic with Art's settings it looks fantastic. BARELY washed out at all in relatively bright environment. You could comfortably read a book in the lighting. As for night time viewing, it is fantastic. On cinema mode with Art's settings the black levels in a completely dark room are very good for all but the darkest scenes at which point I definetly notice the SLIGHT grey to the black levels. However, considering my viewing environment...I am very pleased with it and am not dissapointed even compared to my samsung 850 plasma as far as image quality. Night time viewing with ALL the kitchen lights on (screen about 14 feet from nearest light) is very very good. On living room mode the picture looks absolutely fantastic. On the weekend i had about 12 people over and we watched UFC 139 with all but the nearest light to the screen on and everyone was blown away at how "TV LIKE" it looked. If you didnt know better you would say it was a 112 inch tv. Excellent considering the ambient lighting.


I have watched a lot of movies and played a lot of games on an Optoma HD20 and would say this is absolutely worth the few extra dollars and then some. No comparison in a lit room and obviously much better blacks and Color pop in the dark.



I will try and post some pictures up in the next couple days.


Cheers guys...and thank you for all your comments and input that made me choose this projector. Couldnt be happier.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Beherith* /forum/post/21239914
> 
> 
> Hi Kaiser!
> 
> 
> Here is a closeup of the screen with zoom at the max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The images are of a 1 pixel wide white lines.
> 
> 
> Notice how the red pixels separate from the green and blue ones. This is also noticable in cyan-magenta-yellow lines. This is the convergence i meant. Also notice the horizontal blur.



Sorry, I'm getting increasingly confused! When you say C-M-Y lines do you mean lines made of one separate row/column of each color, or monochromatic grids? Convergence seems to be in spec(


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Smokin80* /forum/post/21240475
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Cheers guys...and thank you for all your comments and input that made me choose this projector. Couldnt be happier.



Glad you're pleased!


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21231162
> 
> 
> Yeah coffee table will work fine and then you can play around with the PJ. *Again, my power cord is 9' long.*



M2C and Kilgore. Just wanted to say thanks for the input. Based on more realistic expectations of lens shift, I'm going to buy the PJ first and then figure out the max screen size I can get on a white sheet from the coffee table or right end table arrangements. Based on that I'm going to get a custom 2.35 da lite screen. I'm hoping 118" wide is going to fit, but it is going to be tight! so better test before purchasing the custom screen. hope to be setup before the Christmas break so the fam can watch lots of movies... pics to come!


----------



## Smokin80

Ok...here are a few pics with some ambient light vs the TV.


I tried to use as similar an exposure as possible for the pictures but the extra light thrown off by the projector makes it tough to match up. The images are a pretty good representation of the room lighting and how the image looked.

YES the kitchen is actually that bright for all the pictures.


Kitchen:










Toshiba 55 inch LED:










Projector On Dynamic (ARTS SETTINGS):










TV From Kitchen:










Projector from Kitchen:










Same shot from kitchen on CINEMA mode:










I figure there are hundreds of pictures of how this projector looks in the dark (very good) So i will just leave that out for now.


Cheers


----------



## usmc0311

I'm new to this forum, but I have been trying to filter through all the information on here for quite some time now. I have my PJ setup in the basement and all the windows have black-out curtains so there is minimal ambient light. My PJ is in a built-in cabinet that is behind the sofa. The throw is just under 20 feet and I'm projecting onto a silverscreen painted wall with a 150 inch diagonal image. Last night I attempted to calibrate my PJ to Art's settings....I'm not too sure I like the way it turned out. Before I had the the image projected onto a basic white wall with all the setting on default (out of the box). I used dynamic to watch just about everything...movies and tv. I'm thinking that the white wall was giving me a picture quality than the newly silverscreen paint wall.


I am open to suggestions on what I can do to improve my image quality.


Thanks


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I use mine at 120" diagonal onto a White wall and use the Cinema/Eco mode with great succes in my light-controlled room. This PJ is so much brighter than the Sony AW15 I replaced. It concerns me you like the Dynamic mode as the reviews tend to reserve it for rooms with large amounts of light... and then again, you're lighting a 150" diagonal screen which is huge! Have you used a video calibration disc yet or just winging this? I'd suspect even a DVD like Avia or DVE would help as I suspect you're wanting a bright image over one that's calibrated. Too many folks think bright equates to the best image - after you use a cal disc you'll be surprised.


----------



## tenring

Finally have the spouse on board and am going to pull the trigger.

Anyone aware of any sales? For those who bought recently, where are you seeing the best pricing (from a reputable place of course..)?

Thanks!


----------



## Barn01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tenring* /forum/post/21248199
> 
> 
> Finally have the spouse on board and am going to pull the trigger.
> 
> Anyone aware of any sales? For those who bought recently, where are you seeing the best pricing (from a reputable place of course..)?
> 
> Thanks!



Best I see at the moment is the Black Friday deal at BB and VA $999.99. You'll just have to compare shipping cost if any? If anyone knows a place that will beat that, please post or PM me


----------



## robertcls97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Barn01* /forum/post/21248269
> 
> 
> Best I see at the moment is the Black Friday deal at BB and VA $999.99. You'll just have to compare shipping cost if any? If anyone knows a place that will beat that, please post or PM me



Hello!


Long time lurker... first time poster.

I just ordered my 8350...hooray! PC Richards and Son has them on sale for 998.97 with free shipping.


----------



## latenight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertcls97* /forum/post/21248541
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> Long time lurker... first time poster.
> 
> I just ordered my 8350...hooray! PC Richards and Son has them on sale for 998.97 with free shipping.




Great find!!! I was waiting and hoping Fry's would offer @ 899 again but its worth it just to be done and get it with free shipping and no tax (No PC Richard in GA)







Thanks!!


----------



## tenring




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *latenight* /forum/post/21249225
> 
> 
> Great find!!! I was waiting and hoping Fry's would offer @ 899 again but its worth it just to be done and get it with free shipping and no tax (No PC Richard in GA)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!



My thoughts exactly. Appreciate the help, everyone...it's on the way.

Enjoy Turkeyday.


----------



## brianbes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Barn01* /forum/post/21248269
> 
> 
> Best I see at the moment is the Black Friday deal at BB and VA $999.99. You'll just have to compare shipping cost if any? If anyone knows a place that will beat that, please post or PM me



Just bought at VA a few min ago been looking all day and they finally opened it up with the black friday price. .03 more than pc r free shipping they throw in some dust cover don't know if I will ever use it and a natures dvd. One of the few times I have been patient if you remember these were under 1k last holiday so here we are again. Gotta sell my pt-ax200u on ebay now and figure out how I am gonna tell the wife a new toy is on its way.


By the way if you order from VA use the chat, I am in sales and if you chat with a rep they can give u an ext to call them direct they will take your order and they get some commission don't know what they get but I am in sales so always looking to help out another salesperson.


----------



## ethanj

On Black Friday Fry's will be selling the 8350 for $799.


----------



## brianbes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ethanj* /forum/post/21250830
> 
> 
> On Black Friday Fry's will be selling the 8350 for $799.



That is unreal, I am out of town Friday and no Fry's where I am going so my VA order still stands but heck I would have been in line at midnight for that price wish their web address would honor that but correct me if I am wrong its in store only.


----------



## cyclox

looked over at projectorpeople.com and can get the 8350 for $899 shipped


----------



## Liquid

Did anyone go from a 720p projector to the 8350? Just wondering if the jump is worth the cash. Thanks.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cyclox* /forum/post/21250938
> 
> 
> looked over at projectorpeople.com and can get the 8350 for $899 shipped



its $999 now


----------



## ethanj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brianbes* /forum/post/21250865
> 
> 
> That is unreal, I am out of town Friday and no Fry's where I am going so my VA order still stands but heck I would have been in line at midnight for that price wish their web address would honor that but correct me if I am wrong its in store only.



It doesn't say it's in store only. It only says Night Owl Specials starts at 12AM.


----------



## mkvien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Liquid* /forum/post/21250952
> 
> 
> Did anyone go from a 720p projector to the 8350? Just wondering if the jump is worth the cash. Thanks.



I did, but the 8350 is much brighter, has better contrast, etc. than the Acer PH530 I moved up from. If you have a reasonably sized screen and the rest of the specs are the similar to yout 720 unit, I am not sure it would be worth it. Most sources are 720p at best anyway.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkvien* /forum/post/21251455
> 
> 
> Most sources are 720p at best anyway.



Do you mean detail or resolution wise?


----------



## mkvien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21251609
> 
> 
> Do you mean detail or resolution wise?



Resolution, very few television channels are in 1080, at least on my DirecTV. The only time I ever have full 1080 is watching a Bluray movie, otherwise my television, Wii, and most anything played on my PC are 720p or lower resolution.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21251045
> 
> 
> its $999 now



I've missed it several times at the 899 price now.


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkvien* /forum/post/21251783
> 
> 
> Resolution, very few television channels are in 1080, at least on my DirecTV. The only time I ever have full 1080 is watching a Bluray movie, otherwise my television, Wii, and most anything played on my PC are 720p or lower resolution.



Ah right. Personally I would go 1080 any *just* for the blurays alone. The difference in detail is astounding.


----------



## Barn01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broadwayblue* /forum/post/21252172
> 
> 
> I've missed it several times at the 899 price now.



If someone sees it for $899 shipped please PM me. That's my magic number to pull the trigger


----------



## KnightRyder

I just pulled the trigger, can't wait!!!!

So happy that I don't have to go stand in a Best Buy line, easy as pie online.


----------



## audioadrenaline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brianbes* /forum/post/21250865
> 
> 
> That is unreal, I am out of town Friday and no Fry's where I am going so my VA order still stands but heck I would have been in line at midnight for that price wish their web address would honor that but correct me if I am wrong its in store only.



Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's in store only.

http://www.frysblackfriday.com/wp-co...11-THURS-2.jpg 


Notice the ad doesn't list the model number, but it's clearly the 8350 (certainly wouldn't be the 8700UB!). Guess that's so people don't go running out looking for price matches elsewhere. I'm bummed that the nearest Frys is 4 hours away for me, so I guess I'm going to have to look for the $899 deal if projector people or visual apex offer it at that price point.


Also just read a review comparing the 8350 and a PT-AR100U [read: last year's model vs. this year's] and the 8350 won out on just about every point except light output. Now if I can just luck out and get one that isn't plagued with any of the problems people are experiencing on this forum, I'll be a happy camper.


Anyone else seen sub - $999 prices on this unit?


----------



## MGar

So excited that I got this deal (which is still live BTW).

This will replace my trusted Panny PT-AX200U.


I'll do 3D in 2 years when it's more mature.


Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## nick_danger

Just ordered from BB for $399. We were going to buy it during the private shopping event for RewardZone Silver members, but this was too good to pass up. Using the $600 RZ we've saved up this year, I've got a lot to be thankful for today.










So now what to do about a screen???


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioadrenaline* /forum/post/21255196
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's in store only.
> 
> http://www.frysblackfriday.com/wp-co...11-THURS-2.jpg
> 
> 
> Notice the ad doesn't list the model number, but it's clearly the 8350 (certainly wouldn't be the 8700UB!).



Yep, easiest way to tell is by looking at the edge caps - silver is 8350, white is 8700.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21255275
> 
> 
> Just ordered from BB for $399. We were going to buy it during the private shopping event for RewardZone Silver members, but this was too good to pass up. Using the $600 RZ we've saved up this year, I've got a lot to be thankful for today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now what to do about a screen???



damn


----------



## ramosma

8350 been working like a champ - had a couple issue recently thought I would share. Bought the 8350 last September 2010


1. Green dust blob showed up in lower left corner of my screen -was a bit worried about this since its been a known problem on this thread with other 8350 users. Opened up the lamp area using a screwdriver (pops open really easily I couldn't find the official tool but any flat head works fine). Took the lamp out and blew all over the place with compressed air where the lamp sits including the lamp itself. Put lamp back into projector and woila no green dust blob. Probably my first recommendation for those having dust blob issues, before you send in the projector. (also clean the filter out periodically)


2. For you HTPC users, I got around to installing the optional windows 7 display update for my Gigabyte Intel H61 motherboard (driver dated 9/27/2011). Normally don't have problems with this type of stuff but after reboot of my HTPC, the HDMI port was no longer working (HDMI not supported message) with the Epson 8350. Tried full shutdown of the HTPC but nothing worked. I have a long HDMI cable run 50 feet but it was working fine since I put that in a few months ago. I did a Windows 7 system restore to right before the driver update and the display started working again. Not sure why that driver update caused a problem, my guess is that Intel tweaked something related to HDCP hand-shaking (argh HDCP and HDMI is just stupid







) Also if you think its a long run HDMI problem, it might actually be something else and beware when blindly doing Windows Updates to your HTPC!


Hope that helps other people. Sorry if its a repost. Haven't been on the thread for awhile.


----------



## yonip

I just got my 8350 from frys for $799 black friday deal. I was surprised they had a lot in stock. This is my upgrade from my old epson home 10. I considered buying the new epson 3d but I know I won't be using the 3d feature that much and not worth spending the extra $700. I am still in the process of installing it to my existing ceiling mount but I need to modify it for my 8350. I will be reading the previous postings to learn more about this PJ. I hope it will be a good match to my new AIOS HD Media Player.


----------



## Bob 99

I just picked up the 8345, which (from what I can tell) is a Canadian-ized version of the 8350.


Let me know if there's any reason to return this... If there's a compelling reason to own the 8350 over the 8345, I can buy an 8350 from Epson directly for about $50 more than I paid.


In any case, I'm very excited to be setting this up. I've been without a projector for over a year, and it's good to be back. My previous projector wasn't 1080, and I'm looking forward to taking advantage of the HD. I just ordered about 30 Blu-Ray discs, all my favorite movies, which I can't wait to watch in HD.


I'm using this projector with an electric 100" screen, an Elite Spectrum. I'm very happy with the quality of the screen so far.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob 99* /forum/post/21260261
> 
> 
> I just picked up the 8345, which (from what I can tell) is a Canadian-ized version of the 8350.
> 
> 
> Let me know if there's any reason to return this... If there's a compelling reason to own the 8350 over the 8345, I can buy an 8350 from Epson directly for about $50 more than I paid.



Go for the 8350. It has higher lumens and double the contrast rate.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yonip* /forum/post/21259559
> 
> 
> I just got my 8350 from frys for $799 black friday deal. I was surprised they had a lot in stock. This is my upgrade from my old epson home 10. I considered buying the new epson 3d but I know I won't be using the 3d feature that much and not worth spending the extra $700. I am still in the process of installing it to my existing ceiling mount but I need to modify it for my 8350. I will be reading the previous postings to learn more about this PJ. I hope it will be a good match to my new AIOS HD Media Player.



I just picked one up at Fry's for 799, too. Killer deal. Also picked up the PS3 bundle for 199. Fired it up this weekend on a temporary 120" wide 2.35 screen. Wow, amazing picture. Even with my non-light controlled living room, looks great with the lights off and bright sports are no problem even with most of the lights on. Very happy with this purchase.


----------



## vinha916

do you guys think if I put the screen in front of bay window, would the light effect when i watch in the daylight? this is the screen i want to get and i am mostly watch it in the bright enviroment, what do you guys think? thank you.

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...69lt-120gy.htm


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21267091
> 
> 
> do you guys think if I put the screen in front of bay window, would the light effect when i watch in the daylight? this is the screen i want to get and i am mostly watch it in the bright enviroment, what do you guys think? thank you.
> 
> http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Wides...69lt-120gy.htm



Absolutely, the ambient light emanating from behind a screen (from a large bay window no less) will definitely effect the picture quality no matter what screen you buy. Projectors are just not ideal for bright rooms without any sort of light control (whether it be shades, curtains, dimmers etc...).


----------



## allbaugh_04

I am about to pull the trigger on the Epson 8350.


Can anyone recommend the best place to buy? Will I get the same warranty from projector people as I would directly from Epson? It's 999 at projector people.


Also, a local retailer says they will match or beat any price. I might ask if they have a warranty etc.


So if anyone knows a place with a really good price, let me know so I can try and get them to match it.


One question though. I was thinking about ease of mounting it or setting it up. Would it really work to have it on an end table next to my couch. It'd work ok even though it's not a straight shot on my wall? Or is this just not ideal and it'll look like crap?


----------



## vinha916




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21267221
> 
> 
> Absolutely, the ambient light emanating from behind a screen (from a large bay window no less) will definitely effect the picture quality no matter what screen you buy. Projectors are just not ideal for bright rooms without any sort of light control (whether it be shades, curtains, dimmers etc...).



if I try to cover most lights coming in , it should be ok?


----------



## allbaugh_04

Absolutely, get some thick shades.


----------



## RAKs_

I was wondering if i can use a 50ft cable without hdmi amplifier? I am planning to buy *this 22awg hdmi* cable from monoprice. Would 24awg work just as well? BTW, the connection is AVR->8350. Thanks.


----------



## vullcan

Yes that should work and if not monoprice has a stellar return policy. I am using the 45ft version with about 5 additional feet between my components on either end (including wall jacks and port savers all which should add additional signal loss.


Havent tried 3D content yet but then again if youre only concerned with the 8350 that cant do 3D


----------



## mcegelsk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21267432
> 
> 
> I am about to pull the trigger on the Epson 8350.
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend the best place to buy? Will I get the same warranty from projector people as I would directly from Epson? It's 999 at projector people.
> 
> 
> Also, a local retailer says they will match or beat any price. I might ask if they have a warranty etc.
> 
> 
> So if anyone knows a place with a really good price, let me know so I can try and get them to match it.
> 
> 
> One question though. I was thinking about ease of mounting it or setting it up. Would it really work to have it on an end table next to my couch. It'd work ok even though it's not a straight shot on my wall? Or is this just not ideal and it'll look like crap?



HHGREGG has it for $899.00. It shows 1199.00 at first but when you log in and add it to the cart it will drop to the $999.00 you are seeing all over. Then use "CYBERDEALS" coupon code and you'll get it at 899.00. This is great if you are in a non-HHGREGG state and shipping is pretty low.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcegelsk* /forum/post/21267967
> 
> 
> HHGREGG has it for $899.00. It shows 1199.00 at first but when you log in and add it to the cart it will drop to the $999.00 you are seeing all over. Then use "CYBERDEALS" coupon code and you'll get it at 899.00. This is great if you are in a non-HHGREGG state and shipping is pretty low.



Thanks so much!


----------



## thusnani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcegelsk* /forum/post/21267967
> 
> 
> HHGREGG has it for $899.00. It shows 1199.00 at first but when you log in and add it to the cart it will drop to the $999.00 you are seeing all over. Then use "CYBERDEALS" coupon code and you'll get it at 899.00. This is great if you are in a non-HHGREGG state and shipping is pretty low.



Unfortunately its not coming up as $899 for me, it showing $1199 and then 10% off using the coupon code at checkout.


----------



## bhoth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thusnani* /forum/post/21268137
> 
> 
> Unfortunately its not coming up as $899 for me, it showing $1199 and then 10% off using the coupon code at checkout.



Yup same here!


----------



## femi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhoth* /forum/post/21268162
> 
> 
> Yup same here!



same here too.


----------



## mcegelsk

You have to *Log in* to see the $999.00 price... then add it to cart then add the coupon code. HHGREGG is weird that way.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RAKs_* /forum/post/21267580
> 
> 
> I was wondering if i can use a 50ft cable without hdmi amplifier? I am planning to buy *this 22awg hdmi* cable from monoprice. Would 24awg work just as well? BTW, the connection is AVR->8350. Thanks.



I have two 35' hdmi runs in my home theatre set up using 22AWG cables from Monoprice. Before buying the cables, I consulted with Monoprice tech support who told me that using any of their cables longer than 35' may run the risk of signal loss. If you want to try a 50' run, than definitely go for the 22AWG since that would be the thicker cable.


----------



## djfunk

I picked up the 8350 from Frys (at the store) last Friday for $799! Was lucky to get the last one! This is my first projector and right out of the box this unit blew me away. I simply projected it to my tan wall and the quality and brightness is awesome.


Can you guys recommend a good adjustable ceiling mount for this projector?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djfunk* /forum/post/21268963
> 
> 
> I picked up the 8350 from Frys (at the store) last Friday for $799! Was lucky to get the last one! This is my first projector and right out of the box this unit blew me away. I simply projected it to my tan wall and the quality and brightness is awesome.
> 
> 
> Can you guys recommend a good adjustable ceiling mount for this projector?



Ceiling mounts have been repeatedly covered in this thread already. Use the "Search this Thread" button and look for "chief ceiling mount". Enjoy your new purchase!


----------



## RAKs_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21268424
> 
> 
> I have two 35' hdmi runs in my home theatre set up using 22AWG cables from Monoprice. Before buying the cables, I consulted with Monoprice tech support who told me that using any of their cables longer than 35' may run the risk of signal loss. If you want to try a 50' run, than definitely go for the 22AWG since that would be the thicker cable.



Thanks for the response. I will check with monoprice on running 50' 22awg cable.


----------



## litng1

Hey guys got my epson 8350 with a elite 150 inch electric screen and love it out of the box.Its in my garage with total darkness.It looks great but like to know what things I can tweak to get a even better picture.Ive noticed it seems dark in dark parts of movies is this normal?Thanks


----------



## vinha916




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *litng1* /forum/post/21270913
> 
> 
> Hey guys got my epson 8350 with a elite 150 inch electric screen and love it out of the box.Its in my garage with total darkness.It looks great but like to know what things I can tweak to get a even better picture.Ive noticed it seems dark in dark parts of movies is this normal?Thanks



do you mind take some pictures of it? where did you get your screen may i ask? THanks


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21267432
> 
> 
> I am about to pull the trigger on the Epson 8350.
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend the best place to buy? Will I get the same warranty from projector people as I would directly from Epson? It's 999 at projector people.
> 
> 
> Also, a local retailer says they will match or beat any price. I might ask if they have a warranty etc.
> 
> 
> So if anyone knows a place with a really good price, let me know so I can try and get them to match it.
> 
> 
> One question though. I was thinking about ease of mounting it or setting it up. Would it really work to have it on an end table next to my couch. It'd work ok even though it's not a straight shot on my wall? Or is this just not ideal and it'll look like crap?



The 8350 is one of the more flexible pjs. I have mine on an end table next to the couch and it works great. The image does not appear impacted by the shift. You can look for the epson specs that show how high and wide the lens can shift. Keep in mind that you can't do full shifts in both directions at the same time. If you have to shift wide a lot, you will want to mount the pj higher so it is closer to the vertical centerline. Only full proof way is to buy and try. One of the benefits of the end table placement is that you can walk in front of the image without blocking it.


----------



## Meguro2006

Add me to the green blob club. 3 circular green blobs have appeared in the lower left hand side of the picture. They are really noticeable when the screen is completely black in that area. I'm also occasionally getting a message stating my auto iris is malfunctioning advising me to contact Epson for service. I've only had the PJ since October. Kind of sucks... Epson just shipped me a refurb because I'm passed my 30days but the new one I got has a broken focus adjuster. The thing is stuck and won't turn. I'm kind of bummed... Third 8350 is arriving soon. My question is, has Epson done anything for any of you other people having similar issues? Upgrade, refund etc... I really like this PJ, I'm just worried about what will happen when my warranty runs out.


Thanks


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21272122
> 
> 
> The 8350 is one of the more flexible pjs. I have mine on an end table next to the couch and it works great. The image does not appear impacted by the shift. You can look for the epson specs that show how high and wide the lens can shift. Keep in mind that you can't do full shifts in both directions at the same time. If you have to shift wide a lot, you will want to mount the pj higher so it is closer to the vertical centerline. Only full proof way is to buy and try. One of the benefits of the end table placement is that you can walk in front of the image without blocking it.



Good to see you're happy with the 8350. Did it meet all your expectations?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Meguro2006* /forum/post/21272335
> 
> 
> Add me to the green blob club. 3 circular green blobs have appeared in the lower left hand side of the picture. They are really noticeable when the screen is completely black in that area. I'm also occasionally getting a message stating my auto iris is malfunctioning advising me to contact Epson for service. I've only had the PJ since October. Kind of sucks... Epson just shipped me a refurb because I'm passed my 30days but the new one I got has a broken focus adjuster. The thing is stuck and won't turn. I'm kind of bummed... Third 8350 is arriving soon. My question is, has Epson done anything for any of you other people having similar issues? Upgrade, refund etc... I really like this PJ, I'm just worried about what will happen when my warranty runs out.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I wouldn't worry too much. Epson will keep sending replacements until you're totally satisfied.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21272122
> 
> 
> The 8350 is one of the more flexible pjs. I have mine on an end table next to the couch and it works great. The image does not appear impacted by the shift. You can look for the epson specs that show how high and wide the lens can shift. Keep in mind that you can't do full shifts in both directions at the same time. If you have to shift wide a lot, you will want to mount the pj higher so it is closer to the vertical centerline. Only full proof way is to buy and try. One of the benefits of the end table placement is that you can walk in front of the image without blocking it.



Thanks a bunch. I found a good article explaining every single thing about he projector including the lens shift.


One question. If I don't buy it from Epson, do they still service it under a warranty, if I have issues?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21272791
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch. I found a good article explaining every single thing about he projector including the lens shift.
> 
> 
> One question. If I don't buy it from Epson, do they still service it under a warranty, if I have issues?



If they are an Epson authorized dealer, then yes. If not, then no.


----------



## bassage

I was thinking about getting this projector. Anyone know if it would work well from 16 feet away on a shelf above the couch? Will I have brightness issues from that far away? Also, I know that this does not do keystone adjustments, so I'm wondering how far you can adjust with lens shift. Is it just a slight adjustment, or can you really move it around a lot?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was thinking about getting this projector. Anyone know if it would work well from 16 feet away on a shelf above the couch? Will I have brightness issues from that far away? Also, I know that this does not do keystone adjustments, so I'm wondering how far you can adjust with lens shift. Is it just a slight adjustment, or can you really move it around a lot?



You'll have plenty of brightness and lens shift.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21275325
> 
> 
> I was thinking about getting this projector. Anyone know if it would work well from 16 feet away on a shelf above the couch? Will I have brightness issues from that far away? Also, I know that this does not do keystone adjustments, so I'm wondering how far you can adjust with lens shift. Is it just a slight adjustment, or can you really move it around a lot?



Yes, a lot ( shift, zoom, brightness). Should be fine. Use the Epson website placement calculator.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21272460
> 
> 
> Good to see you're happy with the 8350. Did it meet all your expectations?



It sure did. I'm throwing a huge image at about 16 ft and the brightness is great even on cinema mode. The placement just barely works for the screen size and the lens shift. And this thing is super quiet! Oh lastly setting up the zoom and focus is a snap. No issue with pulling it out and putting back other than letting it cool down first. I'm pretty thrilled, especially considering the price.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21275325
> 
> 
> I was thinking about getting this projector. Anyone know if it would work well from 16 feet away on a shelf above the couch? Will I have brightness issues from that far away? Also, I know that this does not do keystone adjustments, so I'm wondering how far you can adjust with lens shift. Is it just a slight adjustment, or can you really move it around a lot?



This picture is with the projector 16' 6" away on an end table next to the couch. I don't have a screen yet, but it looks great on my beige wall. 124 inch size roughly with all lights on.


PLEASE EXCUSE THE MESS!! I'm in transition!


----------



## bassage

I made a mistake, I don't know where I got 16 feet from, the distance will be about 19 feet.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21275875
> 
> 
> I made a mistake, I don't know where I got 16 feet from, the distance will be about 19 feet.



How far back are you sitting and how big of a screen size do you want?


----------



## bassage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21275894
> 
> 
> How far back are you sitting and how big of a screen size do you want?



the couch would be around 19 feet away and the projector would be on a shelf above the couch. the wall can only have a screen about 100 inches wide, no more. there are two windows, one on each side, so that's the limit if i want to mount a screen on the wall. although, i could get a hanging screen to hang over the windows and go bigger if i wanted.


----------



## mangamonster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kaisergrendel* /forum/post/21141392
> 
> http://www.epson.com/alf_up...-calculator



Wow, thank you SOSOOOOO much for this. I've been freaking out because the mount I ordered is only 4" from the ceiling, and I was afraid that the lens shift wouldn't cover the are we are placing the screen.


The calculator works great!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21275872
> 
> 
> This picture is with the projector 16' 6" away on an end table next to the couch. I don't have a screen yet, but *it looks great on my beige wall. 124 inch size* roughly with all lights on.



Wait until you _paint_ that wall White or some Grey-formula! Mine too is 124"-diag on Cinema-Eco in a light-controlled room!


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21276522
> 
> 
> Wait until you _paint_ that wall White or some Grey-formula! Mine too is 124"-diag on Cinema-Eco in a light-controlled room!



Yeah, I'm looking forward to it. I'm going to go with a 2:35:1 screen at around 155 inches diagonal so that movies are bigger than tv.


When I watch movies it's REALLY impressive.










I'm having another forum member paint my screen for me in a few weeks, can't wait.


Can you post some pictures of your setup?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21276058
> 
> 
> the couch would be around 19 feet away and the projector would be on a shelf above the couch. the wall can only have a screen about 100 inches wide, no more. there are two windows, one on each side, so that's the limit if i want to mount a screen on the wall. although, i could get a hanging screen to hang over the windows and go bigger if i wanted.



You gotta go bigger!!! I'm telling you, before I bought this projector I had no idea how amazing the picture would look even as it got larger. It's like the picture stays sharp and bright as it gets bigger as you change the size.


When I watch movies it's 155" diagonal from my 18 feet away position but I could watch comfortably from 12 feet away with no problem. It's awesome.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I was going to chime in and say how "involved" you'd be with that 155"-diag 2.35 (assuming 142" width), until I ran the numbers... 'cause I sit 13 +/- from my 124" and am more involved than you'll be! So if _you're_ sitting at 18' you'd want that extra foot 'n a half on each side. Have you considered how HDTV (16:9) will look? Have you considered you'll be zooming the lens (up -n- down) when you switch between formats to keep a fixed "screen" height at 5-feet? Or is that _why_ you've selected the distance/image sizes you have - to accommodate the Epson 8350's zoom range!?!


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21276909
> 
> 
> I was going to chime in and say how "involved" you'd be with that 155"-diag 2.35 (assuming 142" width), until I ran the numbers... 'cause I sit 13 +/- from my 124" and am more involved than you'll be! So if _you're_ sitting at 18' you'd want that extra foot 'n a half on each side. Have you considered how HDTV (16:9) will look? Have you considered you'll be zooming the lens (up -n- down) when you switch between formats to keep a fixed "screen" height at 5-feet? Or is that _why_ you've selected the distance/image sizes you have - to accommodate the Epson 8350's zoom range!?!



I selected the seating distance for audio reasons. If I scoot up a couple of feet I get a huge null around 50 hz and it doesn't get better as I get closer to the center of the room. At 18 feet back I'm around 4 feet from the back wall and the bass is much smoother.


At that distance 124 inches for HDTV works just fine. I don't need tv to be that huge, that's why I made the decision to go with a 2:35:1 screen - I can't stomach the though of movies being smaller - and - my wall is limited to screen height not width, as you can see a few posts back with my football picture.


It's not a pain at all to zoom in and out when switching from tv to movies, I've done it many times now.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21275875
> 
> 
> I made a mistake, I don't know where I got 16 feet from, the distance will be about 19 feet.



Looks fine in the calculator.

100 in. diagonal screen = 10 ft. to 21 ft. distance


Mine is shelf mounted in the back of the room. At 18ft. I run a 96" diag. image and the zoom is in the middle somewhere.


Like I said .. lots of "adjustment range" ... this is nothing like a DLP based projector.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21275872
> 
> 
> This picture is with the projector 16' 6" away on an end table next to the couch. I don't have a screen yet, but it looks great on my beige wall. 124 inch size roughly with all lights on.
> 
> 
> PLEASE EXCUSE THE MESS!! I'm in transition!



^ Someone has a nice audio setup!


----------



## vertigouno

I just took my new 8350 out the box. As soon as I turned it on it overheated after 10min of watching movie previews. I got it at Frys for $799.00


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21276058
> 
> 
> the couch would be around 19 feet away and the projector would be on a shelf above the couch. the wall can only have a screen about 100 inches wide, no more. there are two windows, one on each side, so that's the limit if i want to mount a screen on the wall. although, i could get a hanging screen to hang over the windows and go bigger if i wanted.



sitting 19 feet away, I think you will want to be at least 10 feet wide (120"). Pull down that covers the windows sounds pretty good here. You can even bring it a foot or so into the room to reduce the throw. Shoot onto the wall first - then decide about the screen. I think you will want to go wider.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21276675
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm looking forward to it. I'm going to go with a 2:35:1 screen at around 155 inches diagonal so that movies are bigger than tv.
> 
> 
> When I watch movies it's REALLY impressive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having another forum member paint my screen for me in a few weeks, can't wait.
> 
> 
> Can you post some pictures of your setup?



how do you tell the projector that you have that format of a picture, isn't this projector a native 16 by 9?


thanks


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21277077
> 
> 
> ^ Someone has a nice audio setup!



Thanks! The Magnepan's are great for music but I'm looking for another set of speakers to use only for movies while keeping the maggies for music. My pride and joy is the subwoofer though, a JTR Captivator.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21277305
> 
> 
> how do you tell the projector that you have that format of a picture, isn't this projector a native 16 by 9?
> 
> 
> thanks



I zoom it up making the picture larger so that the height is the same but the width is much wider. The black bars are of course above and below the image but when I get my screen painted I will use some black velvet or something so they will not be visible, hell they don't even bother me much now.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vertigouno* /forum/post/21277233
> 
> 
> I just took my new 8350 out the box. As soon as I turned it on it overheated after 10min of watching movie previews. I got it at Frys for $799.00



...and you had the vents unobstructed? Did you hear the fan blowing? I don't know whether the filter could be blocked but would check it. Did the indicator point this overheating out , did it go blank, or what sign did you have? Tried powering it up again? Oh, and you're sure it's not the _blanking_ button (on the remote) but really overheated? Sorry for your loss.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

@Carp -- I'll give you three months and you'll be out showing off your calibrated twist... you'll rotate that ZOOM ring _just_ the proper amount (eeerrrk) without _touching_ the focus ring what-so-ever and... viola` 1.77 becomes 2.35











PS That's one hell-ova woofer! 18" and 3,000 Watts... I'm running two (2) of the Polk PSW-505 (12" 300 watts Continuous Average Output & 460 Watts Dynamic Power Output) subs I picked up from the egg for under $425 combined cost to my door!


----------



## vertigouno

Yeah I had it 10" away from the wall , that could of blocked air flow to the filter.

A little red light turned on and the projector shut down on it's own.


I moved it to a different location 5 ft off the wall. So far it hasn't shut down it's been 20 min and still good.


----------



## vertigouno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21277373
> 
> 
> ...and you had the vents unobstructed? Did you hear the fan blowing? I don't know whether the filter could be blocked but would check it. Did the indicator point this overheating out , did it go blank, or what sign did you have? Tried powering it up again? Oh, and you're sure it's not the _blanking_ button (on the remote) but really overheated? Sorry for your loss.



Thanks.


----------



## dolphinc

I currently own a Viewsonic Pro8100 and I have the upgrade itch, has anyone here gone from the Pro8100 to the 8350? Is there a Hugh difference? Thanks.


----------



## Lindros88

Has anyone ever bought a replacement lamp at eBay? I'm contemplating buying one there, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not.


----------



## Bob 99

Hi everyone, I've got a basic question about the 12 volt trigger port. How exactly do I use it?


I want to use the 12 volt trigger port on the back to automatically drop and raise my Elite Spectrum Electric 100H screen.


The 12 volt DC connector on the back of the projector is a 3.5mm jack. The connector on my screen is a Cat5 / RJ45 connector. Is there a magical 3.5mm -> RJ45 cable I should be using?


Thanks!


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob 99* /forum/post/21278481
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I've got a basic question about the 12 volt trigger port. How exactly do I use it?
> 
> 
> I want to use the 12 volt trigger port on the back to automatically drop and raise my Elite Spectrum Electric 100H screen.
> 
> 
> The 12 volt DC connector on the back of the projector is a 3.5mm jack. The connector on my screen is a Cat5 / RJ45 connector. Is there a magical 3.5mm -> RJ45 cable I should be using?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have an Elite CineTension2 screen and utilize the 12V trigger with my 8350, so I know exactly what you are talking about. In order to get this to work though, you have to fabricate your own cable, so you'll need:


- trigger adapter cable (included with your screen)

- male/male 3.5mm cable long enough to go from screen to projector (available online at sites like Monoprice)

- soldering gun

- wire stripper (you can probably just get away with using your teeth)

- electrical tape


1. Cut one end off the 3.5mm cable and peel off casing to expose the two separate wires.

2. Strip wires to expose the copper wire (be careful, wire is pretty thin and easy to break). Do the same for the adapter cable if needed.

3. Solder the two cables together and wrap each cable with the eletrical tape.

4. Plug the CAT5 end of the adapter into the screen, and the 3.5mm end into the projector's trigger port.

5. Using the projector's setup menu, activate the trigger port.


Now every time you turn on the 8350 the screen automatically goes down, and vice versa. I'm a big fan of using the trigger because it's one less IR remote command to worry about. Much more reliable.


Good luck!


----------



## Impetus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21277323
> 
> 
> Thanks! The Magnepan's are great for music but I'm looking for another set of speakers to use only for movies while keeping the maggies for music. My pride and joy is the subwoofer though, a JTR Captivator.



Talk about an expensive subwoofer --- that thing makes babies!

Did you calculate a total cost of ownership when buying it? Remember, one day it will wanna go to college.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21277343
> 
> 
> I zoom it up making the picture larger so that the height is the same but the width is much wider. The black bars are of course above and below the image but when I get my screen painted I will use some black velvet or something so they will not be visible, hell they don't even bother me much now.



I get it, thanks.

I am wanting to paint my ceiling (near screen) dark, does all that light on there bother you?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vertigouno* /forum/post/21277404
> 
> 
> Yeah I had it 10" away from the wall , that could of blocked air flow to the filter.
> 
> A little red light turned on and the projector shut down on it's own.
> 
> 
> I moved it to a different location 5 ft off the wall. So far it hasn't shut down it's been 20 min and still good.



are you sure it's not near a heat source?

mine is closer to 10 inches and doesn't seem to get too hot.


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21275872
> 
> 
> This picture is with the projector 16' 6" away on an end table next to the couch. I don't have a screen yet, but it looks great on my beige wall. 124 inch size roughly with all lights on.
> 
> 
> PLEASE EXCUSE THE MESS!! I'm in transition!



Not too shabby. It lacks some pop compared to other screen shots, I am thinking of grabbing the PJ and doing a stretch shooting at the wall until I can raise funds for a screen (I'd DIY, but it needs to be an AT electric drop screen). How much of the pop do you get back if you turn off the lights?


Edit - nevermind. I just realized the next screen shot (in the dark) which I assumed was on a screen was yours, and looks great. Feeling rather good about going 6 months or so screenless.


----------



## allbaugh_04

Looks great for the lights being on though...


----------



## ianick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21277343



What movie is that?


Nice set up by the way.


----------



## Bob 99

OSUDesi, thanks very much for that excellent and detailed description, I really appreciate it!


Does it matter which cable from the 12 volt trigger connects to either side of the 3.5mm cable? (Is it possible to hook it up backwards, and if so, what should I do to make sure i do it the right way?)


Bob


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ianick* /forum/post/21280020
> 
> 
> What movie is that?
> 
> 
> Nice set up by the way.



Looks like Hot Fuzz, but I could be wrong.


That picture looks amazing, though. What size would you estimate that picture is? nvm, 124" i think it said a few posts back.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcegelsk* /forum/post/21268300
> 
> 
> You have to *Log in* to see the $999.00 price... then add it to cart then add the coupon code. HHGREGG is weird that way.










code didn't work, it's at 1044. Which ain't bad.


EDIT-Anyone got a new code? I had to wait to buy it, cuz I just moved into my new place.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob 99* /forum/post/21280073
> 
> 
> OSUDesi, thanks very much for that excellent and detailed description, I really appreciate it!
> 
> 
> Does it matter which cable from the 12 volt trigger connects to either side of the 3.5mm cable? (Is it possible to hook it up backwards, and if so, what should I do to make sure i do it the right way?)
> 
> 
> Bob



No it does not.


If you were using it as an audio cable, it would... but in this case, you're using the cable to send a very small electrical current from the 3.5mm male end, so it doesn't matter.


BTW... keep the screen's IR remote around though. There have been a couple of instances where the trigger didn't work bringing the screen up for whatever reason. Could have been a fluke since I was messing around tweeking my setup at the time, but still...


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21280334
> 
> 
> Looks like Hot Fuzz, but I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> That picture looks amazing, though. What size would you estimate that picture is? nvm, 124" i think it said a few posts back.




Its bigger than 124" compare the two pics, the dark one the image is illuminating the rack a bit. That is something. . .


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21277343
> 
> 
> I zoom it up making the picture larger so that the height is the same but the width is much wider. The black bars are of course above and below the image but when I get my screen painted I will use some black velvet or something so they will not be visible, hell they don't even bother me much now.



That's pretty much what I am doing. Constant height of 51" makes about a 104" diagonal 16:9 and a 130" diagonal 2.35 or 120" wide 2.35. So TV is big and movies are even bigger. Bigger is definitely better.


I agree that the black bars are no big deal. I also think the reflections on the ceiling are not a big deal. I am obviously not a videophile, but I like a nice pic. I can say that the 8350 in less than optimal settings with all the lights off is pretty stunning. At least for me.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/21277831
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever bought a replacement lamp at eBay? I'm contemplating buying one there, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not.



bad idea.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Reflections... the top of my 124" screen is at 8' and everything above that including the 9'4" ceiling is flat Black. I have flat Black 3-1/2" trim surrounding the screen and Black Guilford of Maine fabric covering _acoustical_ panels across the entire _front_ wall, and Burgundy panels on the side walls. The texture does a great job of knocking down the reflections and its acoustical transparency works with the panels.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21278934
> 
> 
> I get it, thanks.
> 
> I am wanting to paint my ceiling (near screen) dark, does all that light on there bother you?



It doesn't bother me too much, but I'm waiting to see what it will be like when I get my screen (wall) painted.


I would be open to painting the walls and ceiling. I wish I could see some examples of people that have painted part of their ceiling, I'm having a tough time imagining that looking good.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21280334
> 
> 
> Looks like Hot Fuzz, but I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> That picture looks amazing, though. What size would you estimate that picture is? nvm, 124" i think it said a few posts back.



Yep, Hot Fuzz. Screen size is 155 inches 2:35:1. The football pic is 124" 16:9.


Don't forget guys, this is on a tan wall no screen. If I would have known projectors could look like this I would have bought one years ago. Of course the irony is the fact that they didn't make projectors like this for this much money so maybe I timed it just right!


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21280772
> 
> 
> That's pretty much what I am doing. Constant height of 51" makes about a 104" diagonal 16:9 and a 130" diagonal 2.35 or 120" wide 2.35. So TV is big and movies are even bigger. Bigger is definitely better.
> 
> 
> I agree that the black bars are no big deal. I also think the reflections on the ceiling are not a big deal. I am obviously not a videophile, but I like a nice pic. I can say that the 8350 in less than optimal settings with all the lights off is pretty stunning. At least for me.



Yeah, it's funny how I'm so picky about audio but not so much for video. The times I am paying attention to the picture quality drive me nuts, because I fail to listen/comprehend what is going on in the movie. I'm glad for the most part I don't think about it.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21281911
> 
> 
> Yep, Hot Fuzz. Screen size is 155 inches 2:35:1. The football pic is 124" 16:9.
> 
> 
> Don't forget guys, this is on a tan wall no screen. If I would have known projectors could look like this I would have bought one years ago. Of course the irony is the fact that they didn't make projectors like this for this much money so maybe I timed it just right!



NICE! That's a huge screen. Before buying this projector I was nervous about getting the 16+ fL that is recommended. I'm at ~13 fL and plenty satisfied with brightness. I'll deal with lamp life when I get there.


Btw, I'm no expert, but with a screen that big, I would recommend not pushing the grays too deep. IMHO big screens need to be concerned more with brightness than with blacks. Keep us posted with new pics!


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21282570
> 
> 
> NICE! That's a huge screen. Before buying this projector I was nervous about getting the 16+ fL that is recommended. I'm at ~13 fL and plenty satisfied with brightness. I'll deal with lamp life when I get there.
> 
> 
> Btw, I'm no expert, but with a screen that big, I would recommend not pushing the grays too deep. IMHO big screens need to be concerned more with brightness than with blacks. Keep us posted with new pics!



I will post pics when the screen is done, but that won't be for a couple of weeks. I'll post some before and after shots. I'm not painting it myself, I have no DIY skills and am a complete klutz. Not a good combination when it comes it using a paint sprayer!!


I agree with dealing with lamp life when I need to, I knew going in I was going to have to factor the cost of replacing the bulb quite often. Since it's my regular viewing tv I'm putting about 40 hours on it a week so I'll have over 2000 hours in a year. I'll probably be looking at replacing it before that though, we'll see how it looks at the 1000 hour mark.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21281901
> 
> 
> It doesn't bother me too much, but I'm waiting to see what it will be like when I get my screen (wall) painted.
> 
> 
> I would be open to painting the walls and ceiling. I wish I could see some examples of people that have painted part of their ceiling, I'm having a tough time imagining that looking good.



My wife isn't too happy when I mentioned it. I am still fighting this battle.


----------



## msbklipsch

How Many Hours Do you Have on Your 8350 So Far ?


well it has been just about one year since I purchased the 8350 and I am sure there are a lot of others out there too


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21284496
> 
> 
> My wife isn't too happy when I mentioned it. I am still fighting this battle.



In a non-dedicated room or multi-use room ... it's a tough sell. "Pick your battles" comes to mind


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21285513
> 
> 
> In a non-dedicated room or multi-use room ... it's a tough sell. "Pick your battles" comes to mind



HAHAHA


before my wife I had a different house with a 15 by 19

she made me get rid of my 65inch tv, 55 inch tv (rear proj)

then the vandersteens and deftechs went to basement

for cheap in wall speakers


so i have taken over a bedroom 15 by 14 or so

and put in the projector and 100inch favi screen

painting the walls dark gray, but she flinched on the ceiling...


we will see.


get a wife , lose your life.


----------



## Threefiddie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21285528
> 
> 
> HAHAHA
> 
> 
> 
> get a wife , lose your life.



truth


----------



## sonoma13

I know this has been asked a zillion times but I still can't decide. I just got a Epson 8350 and I ordered a Jamestown screen,but I still got time to tell him which screen to send. I have a 15 x 14 room with 3 windows,2 of which face toward the afternoon sun. I have blackout curtains but there is still light bleeding in. The throw distance will be about 13 feet ceiling mounted onto a 110" screen. The walls are painted flat beige and the ceiling flat white. It's a rental so Im not willing to change paint colors. I ordered the grey 0.8 gain screen,but don't know if I should cancel the order and switch to the white 1.2 gain screen. I do watch football during the day on weekends. And at night movies with little ambient light since the room is closed off with a door to block other light. I do like bright colors but definitely don't wanted the picture faded during the day.


----------



## LoudandClear

You could make some solar screens to mount outside on the windows you are tyring to block light from. HD & Lowes sells solar screen material and the frame pieces to make you own. They will cost you about $10-15 each and you can block out over 50% of the light with just them. Add your blackout curtains inside and you will get very light through when curtains are closed.


I'd stay with the .8 grey screen for improved blacks. The 8350 has plenty of lumens from that distance IMO.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Light control can be done as a temporary set-up, too, with fairly minimal hassle.


You get to keep the normal room aesthetics, and still go Cave for movie night.


I have a thing for those window screen kits/parts. The frames are very light, very inexpensive and you can use a light-absorbing fabric instead of screen. Easily cut with a hacksaw, you can make a bunch of hanging panels and baffles, or stick some feet on the bottom for floor-standing.


Independent panels also free you to angle them for maximum efficiency. Remember, sometimes it's easier or even better to just redirect stray light rather than scatter it around the viewing area/screen. That is to say, if you have a panel that's not such a great absorber, angle it so it absorbs what it can and bounces the rest to where it doesn't matter. Like into another absorber... or another room. Another dimension if Steven Hawking is visiting...


It also allows the discreet use of different materials. I use the better velvets right around the screen, on ceiling, walls, and a floating floor panel, where the maximum absorbtion of screen scatter (and material cost...) yields maximum result. In the back of the room, I can use angled panels of more reflective (and cheep cheep) black felt to absorb what it will and redirect light to the side absorbers and let it all ping-pong to death.


----------



## jacampbell

Does it matter what type of HDMI cable I use for this pj. I need a 30 foot cable. Does the 'version' matter? BTW, this pj looks great with component and 480p movies already!


----------



## lespurgeon

30 feet. You want 22 or 24 AWG. Standard speed should be fine as 8350 is not a 3-D projector. Set you back about $30 at monoprice.


----------



## utildayael

Anyone toss a suggestion for a good ceiling mount that doesn't cost a fortune? I went super cheap on round 1 with a Monoprice mount but there is so much slop in the way the spider arms mount to the 8350 [and the 8350 is fairly heavy] that any vibration upstairs causes the projector to shake. Also nearly impossible to level the projector because of the slop in the mount.


So... looking for options. Looked on Epson's site but the one they recommend is around like $280 MSRP.










Thanks


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jacampbell* /forum/post/21287661
> 
> 
> Does it matter what type of HDMI cable I use for this pj. I need a 30 foot cable. Does the 'version' matter? BTW, this pj looks great with component and 480p movies already!



See my messages on this page:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21137146


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *utildayael* /forum/post/21290474
> 
> 
> Anyone toss a suggestion for a good ceiling mount that doesn't cost a fortune? I went super cheap on round 1 with a Monoprice mount but there is so much slop in the way the spider arms mount to the 8350 [and the 8350 is fairly heavy] that any vibration upstairs causes the projector to shake. Also nearly impossible to level the projector because of the slop in the mount.
> 
> 
> So... looking for options. Looked on Epson's site but the one they recommend is around like $280 MSRP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Search this thread for ceiling mount and you'll find a couple suggestions. The consensus of this group points to the Chief ceiling mount. It's not cheap either, but it's thought of as the best option. I haven't read anything on this thread that mentions a good cheap mount beside a couple of DIY suggestions. The size of the 8350 and the mounting hole placement makes it hard to find a cheap reliable universal mount solution. You'll just have to pay more, but at least you know it will work!


----------



## akakillroy

I have had my 8350 for almost a year now, and I have had to had it replaced once do to some darkening on one side of the screen. The replacement seems much better but this one the darn focus gets out of whack easily. I have to focus the unit every time I start it up, then a couple times while I have been watching movies with it. My room is a dedicated theater room and it is ceiling mounted in the basement. It is relatively isolated and firmly mounted but vibration from the subs seems to be causing the issue, or a very loose focus ring. Anyone else had this issue? Are there any fixes?

Other than that I love this projector, big step up from my panny 200x


Thanks


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21290676
> 
> 
> Search this thread for ceiling mount and you'll find a couple suggestions. The consensus of this group points to the Chief ceiling mount. It's not cheap either, but it's thought of as the best option. I haven't read anything on this thread that mentions a good cheap mount beside a couple of DIY suggestions. The size of the 8350 and the mounting hole placement makes it hard to find a cheap reliable universal mount solution. You'll just have to pay more, but at least you know it will work!



Any way you can point me to a kit for the 8350 and Chief?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

 Chief RPA-168 at B&H and more... google is your friend


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akakillroy* /forum/post/21290827
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 for almost a year now, and I have had to had it replaced once do to some darkening on one side of the screen. The replacement seems much better but this one the darn focus gets out of whack easily. I have to focus the unit every time I start it up, then a couple times while I have been watching movies with it. My room is a dedicated theater room and it is ceiling mounted in the basement. It is relatively isolated and firmly mounted but vibration from the subs seems to be causing the issue, or a very loose focus ring. Anyone else had this issue? Are there any fixes?
> 
> Other than that I love this projector, big step up from my panny 200x
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't have this problem (mine is sitting on a shelf) ... so I'm just "thinking out-loud" here.


First, have you checked the mount good to make sure the vibration isn't starting there (or being allowed by the mount in general).


Second, in this forum, a user talked about cutting the supplied lens "shipping foam ring" a bit and inserting it back in the front after you have it adjusted. I think this was only to lock the Lens Shift, but it might help with both (maybe Zoom ring is moving).


Personally (for the lens shift problem) I would be tempted to try inserting some thin (high quality) foam rubber pieces down between the case and the knobs ... T-shaped so they can't fall inside.


For the focus ring problem (and possibly Shift and Zoom also), what about a velcro strip about 1" wide to wrap around the lens. Keep about 1/8" back from front edge. The inside of the strip should be rubber lined so it has some grip.


----------



## MississippiMan

get the mount from Projector People. Aszk for Kirk Katari ext 2002. Tell him your referred by MMan about the Chief RPA168 mount and the Peerless "Round" Ceiling plate. Together they both max out at $150 or less.


----------



## utildayael

Thanks folks. Just to clarify:


For the Chief mount you have to buy the mount + a ceiling plate? Was trying to sort that out looking at the photos...


Thanks!


----------



## geezerpl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/19789818
> 
> 
> Does not look very sharp to me. Is it because it is zoomed?



Who said Epson was sharp ?!









Epson is well known for softness... Budget LCD too.

If you want sharp then go DLP or top notch LCD


----------



## imserious

I've found that at the size I'm using 100"-133" you really see the limits of 720p in paticular with varied tv quality. I thought my pj was a touch soft until I fired up the bluray and viewed 1080p content. 1080p is crystal clear. Even then the style of movie can make a difference. The Bourne Identity was decidedly less sharp compared to The Green Lantern. I think any animated bluray will be your best test for sharpness.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21290874
> 
> Chief RPA-168 at B&H and more... google is your friend



yeah thanks.


no one mentioned which model number, this is not a kit.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Actually the Chief RPA-168 _is_ a kit! It's the articulating mount (RPA-000) which can be mounted on the ceiling directly (very short, like a ceiling-hugger ceiling fan) and includes the model-identifying SLB-168 projector plate as well! Thus *RPA-168 = RPA-000 + SLB-168*


Here's a site with both an accurate image of the RPA-168 kit and the instructions .


And if you want or need additional drop from the ceiling I found Home Depot was the place for a 1-1/2 in. Galvanized Malleable Iron Floor Flange for $12.50 and (in my case) a 1-1/2 in. x 8 in. Galvanized Steel Nipple to provide drop from the ceiling-mounted flange to the RPA-000.


You can buy the custom SLB plate at most places for close to $100 but it's included in the RPA-168 kit that's selling in the $130-150 range!


What are you thinking should be _in_ a "kit" for it to _be_ a kit?


PS. As I look c-l-o-s-e-l-y at the image I realize it may not be accurate given the hole locations. But it does illustrate the concept of having a larger flat plate (that the Epson's hole pattern demands) than the "typical" plate _illustrated_ on most vender's sites. Oh, and Hope Depot will have 2 packs of the M4 screws you'll need to attach it!


----------



## utildayael

Thanks Andrew. The picture makes sense now.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21298700
> 
> 
> Actually the Chief RPA-168 _is_ a kit! It's the articulating mount (RPA-000) which can be mounted on the ceiling directly (very short, like a ceiling-hugger ceiling fan) and includes the model-identifying SLB-168 projector plate as well! Thus *RPA-168 = RPA-000 + SLB-168*
> 
> 
> Here's a site with both an accurate image of the RPA-168 kit and the instructions .
> 
> 
> And if you want or need additional drop from the ceiling I found Home Depot was the place for a 1-1/2 in. Galvanized Malleable Iron Floor Flange for $12.50 and (in my case) a 1-1/2 in. x 8 in. Galvanized Steel Nipple to provide drop from the ceiling-mounted flange to the RPA-000.
> 
> 
> You can buy the custom SLB plate at most places for close to $100 but it's included in the RPA-168 kit that's selling in the $130-150 range!
> 
> 
> What are you thinking should be _in_ a "kit" for it to _be_ a kit?
> 
> 
> PS. As I look c-l-o-s-e-l-y at the image I realize it may not be accurate given the hole locations. But it does illustrate the concept of having a larger flat plate (that the Epson's hole pattern demands) than the "typical" plate _illustrated_ on most vender's sites. Oh, and Hope Depot will have 2 packs of the M4 screws you'll need to attach it!



Thanks, so tough to tell from the pictures but I think you are saying there is a mounting plate as well for the ceiling just no extension tube?


is it complicated to put up?


thanks again


----------



## vinha916

hey guys i need help finding a wall mount for epson 8350. thanks


Throw 20ft

screen 106"

ceiling 9ft


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21301269
> 
> 
> hey guys i need help finding a wall mount for epson 8350. thanks
> 
> 
> Throw 20ft
> 
> screen 106"
> 
> ceiling 9ft



I had an old school Peerless CRT wall mount I used and it's really working out quite well. Makes a nice secure shelf.

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PM132.../dp/B00006HOH7


----------



## vinha916

how high and ur distance from screen?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21301392
> 
> 
> how high and ur distance from screen?



About 6-7' high and about 16' from 106" screen.

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PM132.../dp/B00006HOH7


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21301269
> 
> 
> hey guys i need help finding a wall mount for epson 8350. thanks
> 
> 
> Throw 20ft
> 
> screen 106"
> 
> ceiling 9ft



this is what I am using till I put it on the ceiling...
http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...3088633&sr=1-4 


fits perfectly on the glass...


----------



## Droid6

These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.


Natural

Brightness -11

Contrast 8

Color Saturation 0

Tint -2

Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0

Abs. Color Temp. 6500K

Skin Tone 0


Advanced...


Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5


RGB

Offset R 6

Offset G 0

Offset B 23

Gain R -2

Gain G 0

Gain B -25


RGBCMY

R 0 -13 -7

G -37 -49 48

B -7 10 -6

C 0 -41 31

M -16 -9 -16

Y -3 -9 8


Power Consumption ECO

Auto Iris Normal


Signal [Advanced]

Noise Reduction Off

EPSON Super White Off

Overscan Off

HDMI Video Range Expanded


----------



## PeterDoubt

Hi,

Just got the projector and I love the picture! Big improvement. I have to use quite a bit of horizontal lens shift, and after trying a couple of different shelves to place it on, suddenly the x axis doesn't lock when adjusting the y axis, and vice versa. I held the projector temporarily on it's side when moving it. Did I jar something, and is there anything I can do? Makes it a bit of a challenge to line up correctly.

Thanks.


----------



## RAKs_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterDoubt* /forum/post/21311428
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just got the projector and I love the picture! Big improvement. I have to use quite a bit of horizontal lens shift, and after trying a couple of different shelves to place it on, suddenly the x axis doesn't lock when adjusting the y axis, and vice versa. I held the projector temporarily on it's side when moving it. Did I jar something, and is there anything I can do? Makes it a bit of a challenge to line up correctly.
> 
> Thanks.



Lens shift when moved to the extreme does this. So when you move the lens towards its horizontal extreme, it will pull the image vertically.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterDoubt* /forum/post/21311428
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just got the projector and I love the picture! Big improvement. I have to use quite a bit of horizontal lens shift, and after trying a couple of different shelves to place it on, suddenly the x axis doesn't lock when adjusting the y axis, and vice versa. I held the projector temporarily on it's side when moving it. Did I jar something, and is there anything I can do? Makes it a bit of a challenge to line up correctly.
> 
> Thanks.



The horizontal and vertical lens shift are tied together.

When you adjust one, the other will move a little.

You basically have to fine tune it with both dials until you get it to the location you desire.

Then at most, after several hours of viewing, you may need to adjust the vertical dial as that one has the tendency to move a little.


*All Epson projectors are like this.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21312806
> 
> 
> The horizontal and vertical lens shift are tied together.
> 
> When you adjust one, the other will move a little.
> 
> You basically have to fine tune it with both dials until you get it to the location you desire.
> 
> Then at most, after several hours of viewing, you may need to adjust the vertical dial as that one has the tendency to move a little.
> 
> 
> *All Epson projectors are like this.



I was wondering why I had to keep adjusting. Does it move if you are not watching? why is it moving ? Just a poor design ?


Another Question: How do you not use it? isn't everyone using it or is there a setting where you are not using it and it's locked?

I am going to mount my projector and the new ceiling height won't be as convenient for constant adjustments...


thanks in advance.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21312810
> 
> 
> I was wondering why I had to keep adjusting. Does it move if you are not watching? why is it moving ? Just a poor design ?
> 
> 
> Another Question: How do you not use it? isn't everyone using it or is there a setting where you are not using it and it's locked?
> 
> I am going to mount my projector and the new ceiling height won't be as convenient for constant adjustments...
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.



Yes, everyone uses it but depending on how stiff the dials are, some move more than others.

Also, if the projector is mounted in a basement or under a main floor, movement from upstairs will sometimes cause it to move.

A Loud subwoofer may also cause movement.


Some have used the foam shipping ring that comes with the projector to help stabilize it after adjustment.

Another thing you can do is use painters tape and tape down the dials after adjustment.

I suggest painters tape so it comes off easily without leaving little or no residue & it can be re-used.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20543081


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21312855
> 
> 
> Another thing you can do is use painters tape and tape down the dials after adjustment. I suggest painters tape so it comes off easily without leaving little or no residue & it can be re-used.



Awesome, I just got my 8350 on Monday and I was wondering how to deal with the dials - as they seem too easy to adjust.


----------



## tenring

Well, since it's my first I don't have much to compare it to...

But I opened the box and had it set up in less than 10 minutes, including rooting around for an HDMI cable I had misplaced.

Right out of the box, it looks amazing.

And I invited my wife in to look at her new 125" screen...

I have not seen her mouth agape that wide for some time. Priceless.

So far, I am amazed.

Just thought I would share.


----------



## mjbrowny21

Has anyone flush mounted thier Chief RPA 168 mount right to the ceiling? It seems like eveyone uses a small extension pipe with a ceiling plate.


----------



## ikecomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21301964
> 
> 
> this is what I am using till I put it on the ceiling...
> http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-ECSB...3088633&sr=1-4
> 
> 
> fits perfectly on the glass...



+1. This a very good mount. I have my 8350 mounted on this at the back of my room


----------



## allbaugh_04

Quick question. How far/close can I put the 8350 and still maintain a 100" screen? Because I can adjust the zoom and such correct? But how much?


Just need to know how far back minimum and maximum it can be.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21322812
> 
> 
> Quick question. How far/close can I put the 8350 and still maintain a 100" screen? Because I can adjust the zoom and such correct? But how much?
> 
> 
> Just need to know how far back minimum and maximum it can be.



Quick answer: read the manual that came with it. It has a chart for all throw distances for each aspect ratio. This projector is extremely flexible.


You can also go to Epson's website and download the manual or use their web configuration tool:

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...sku=V11H373120


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21322812
> 
> 
> Quick question. How far/close can I put the 8350 and still maintain a 100" screen? Because I can adjust the zoom and such correct? But how much?
> 
> 
> Just need to know how far back minimum and maximum it can be.



You should be able to get 100" as close as 10 feet or far away as 20.

http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjbrowny21* /forum/post/21320000
> 
> 
> Has anyone flush mounted thier Chief RPA 168 mount right to the ceiling? It seems like eveyone uses a small extension pipe with a ceiling plate.



You can do so using the correct fasteners, but it's not advisable as there would be virtually no room to reach in to make adjustments, or release the Thumbscrews that are on the Dedicated Plate. Also, being so very close to the Ceiling will mean that the PJ will reside well within the blanket of much warmer air that rises and hugs the Ceiling. While summer time might be a problem but mitigated by ceiling fans and the like, in Winter when Heat is desirable, overheating might occur.


Far better to use even a minimum Drop of 4" than a "Hugger" approach.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21323312
> 
> 
> You should be able to get 100" as close as 10 feet or far away as 20.
> 
> http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/



That's true, but there is a drastic drop in brightness at the high end of that scale. Such a positioning would require a screen to have a bare minimum of 1.2 gain.


I suggest you consider a throw of between 10.5' and 12'


----------



## allbaugh_04

Thanks. I'll probably have it at 12-13ft max then.


----------



## domingos38

Just missed the amazon $899 sale for the epson 8350 yearly today. damn it


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21324834
> 
> 
> Just missed the amazon $899 sale for the epson 8350 yearly today. damn it



You've gotta be crappin me! I have had this in my cart for 3 months.


----------



## MississippiMan

You snooze.....you lose.


Not rubbing it in, but anyone who knows anything about what price the 8350 has been going for even up to last month's end would have / should have jumped on that deal like a Big Dog on a very meaty bone.


Now all you can do is weep and gnash your teeth.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21327781
> 
> 
> You snooze.....you lose.
> 
> 
> Not rubbing it in, but anyone who knows anything about what price the 8350 has been going for even up to last month's end would have / should have jumped on that deal like a Big Dog on a very meaty bone.
> 
> 
> Now all you can do is weep and gnash your teeth.



Which deal? The one everyone failed to mention?


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21327781
> 
> 
> You snooze.....you lose.
> 
> 
> Not rubbing it in, but anyone who knows anything about what price the 8350 has been going for even up to last month's end would have / should have jumped on that deal like a Big Dog on a very meaty bone.
> 
> 
> Now all you can do is weep and gnash your teeth.



to bad i was working at the time the deal started


----------



## dc_pilgrim

It was a lightning deal at amazon for an hour or two on Friday.


We have seen that price a few places already, I wouldn't be surprised if we see it again.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Thanks for clearing that up about being a "lightning deal" 'cause I went and looked at my cart and it remained $1,099 w/FREE SuperSaver shipping. YES, I have _my_ 8350 (bought it _directly_ from the Electronics Expo site in late October) although I'm keeping an eye on pricing as a buddy of mine now wants one!


----------



## RTROSE

New owner of a 8350 here and was wanting someone to help me out. Those of you who are using the Chief mount could you post a pic or two of it and also let me know the total distance the projector hangs down from the ceiling? I have seen the manufactures pictures but was looking for owner input on what the specific 8350 mount looks like.


I'm guessing that it is roughly 8-9 inches from the ceiling but I have no way to verify and looking to save as much headroom as I can as the PJ will be hanging directly over the second row of seats on my planned riser.


Thanks in advance for your help.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Your estimate would be close although I'll offer up for you to please reread the past 2 pages -- I'd posted a pic, links and others commented about how tight (close to the ceiling) the PJ would be (and how it would be a bad place with potential heating effects) if you mounted the Chief _directly_ to the ceiling w/o a pole. The deminsions are in the owners manual - then again, you own it so you can see how high the actual PJ is.


----------



## broadwayblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/21328611
> 
> 
> It was a lightning deal at amazon for an hour or two on Friday.
> 
> 
> We have seen that price a few places already, I wouldn't be surprised if we see it again.



Yeah, it's been sold at $899 or even $800 (Black Friday) on at least 4 different occasions over the past 3 months. The price will return again.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21329342
> 
> 
> Your estimate would be close although I'll offer up for you to please reread the past 2 pages -- I'd posted a pic, links and others commented about how tight (close to the ceiling) the PJ would be (and how it would be a bad place with potential heating effects) if you mounted the Chief _directly_ to the ceiling w/o a pole. The deminsions are in the owners manual - then again, you own it so you can see how high the actual PJ is.



Right, I did read the last two pages and your links and info specifically that is why I was asking for actual photos of owner installs not just pics of the mount. I can look at all the manufacturers photos, and I have seen that (you provided them in fact), but that still is not a replacement IMO for owners photos and for someone to put a tape measure up there and tell me what they get. I came up with my estimate actually because I read the manual.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## TRRICHARD

I have a part of my job where I do "Movie Night" where I work. They have been discussing an Outdoor theater for the summer months. I was wondering if a 270in diag screen would be too large to project on. It would be outdoors and obviously dark. From what I have read here the Living room seems to be VERY bright and would probably work.


Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.



TR


----------



## mkvien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TRRICHARD* /forum/post/21332634
> 
> 
> I have a part of my job where I do "Movie Night" where I work. They have been discussing an Outdoor theater for the summer months. I was wondering if a 270in diag screen would be too large to project on. It would be outdoors and obviously dark. From what I have read here the Living room seems to be VERY bright and would probably work.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> TR



When I first got mine (before I ceiling mounted it in the house) I used it for a weekend playing on the outside of the large overhead door on my shop. That door is 12' high and 20' wide and I filled it up to the edges, no problems with light when the sun was down, and it looks as good as the movie theater when viewing HD stuff.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE* /forum/post/21329867
> 
> 
> Right, I did read the last two pages and your links and info specifically that is why I was asking for actual photos of owner installs not just pics of the mount. I can look at all the manufacturers photos, and I have seen that (you provided them in fact), but that still is not a replacement IMO for *owners photos* and for someone to put a tape measure up there and tell me what they get. I came up with my estimate actually because I read the manual.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> RTROSE



I snapped these as "talking pics" the day I mounted it. As you see it's on a 12" piece of pipe to lower it down to an elevation where the lens is very near the top edge of my screen. This is my third projector on this mount and my first (Sony VPL-VW10HT) had no lens shift capability - you had to mount it where the lens was at the top (ceiling mounted) or bottom (tabletop) edge of the image. The top of my screen (or is it my screen's _frame_) is at 8' (with a 9'4" ceiling) and I've hung an acoustic damper just above 8' so in my case, I'm shooting directly at the wall just under the damper! This history is also why there are so many cables (IR emitter, RS232 serial adapted from Cat 5e, Composite, S-Video, RGBHV (5 BNCs adapted to RCA), Component (Red, Green, Blue), and of course HDMI) available through the hole in the ceiling. I'd say most can get by with only the AC Power & a _single_ HDMI cable as the AVR performs switching between video sources and the remote control bounces off the screen to the point the 8350 responds just fine!


I went and snapped a crude pic of my holding a tape measure and it's around 20" down from the ceiling. This could be reduced by using a shorter pipe or none at all, but you haven't mentioned why you're placing the PJ over your _second_ row seating. You'd _want_ to place it as close as possible to the screen thereby increasing the lumen output -- apparently a percentage of light gets lost in the optics when you use a low zoom value (as you place it farther back in the room). What's your target screen size, room deminsions, etc? Where are you placing your equipment and how long o' cables are you estimating to buy? I'm shooting a 124" diag from 13'6" back and it looks tremendous! My equipment is to the side using various 5 meter - 25' cables. And, the photos show it's a 24' room with a pub table area _behind_ my primary seating.


One more thing, consider using a small UPS for your AC Power -- this will allow steady power and more importantly, the fan to cool things off in case of an unexpected power outage.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21333163
> 
> 
> I snapped these as "talking pics" the day I mounted it. As you see it's on a 12" piece of pipe to lower it down to an elevation where the lens is very near the top edge of my screen. This is my third projector on this mount and my first (Sony VPL-VW10HT) had no lens shift capability - you had to mount it where the lens was at the top (ceiling mounted) or bottom (tabletop) edge of the image. The top of my screen (or is it my screen's _frame_) is at 8' (with a 9'4" ceiling) and I've hung an acoustic damper just above 8' so in my case, I'm shooting directly at the wall just under the damper! This history is also why there are so many cables (IR emitter, RS232 serial adapted from Cat 5e, Composite, S-Video, RGBHV (5 BNCs adapted to RCA), Component (Red, Green, Blue), and of course HDMI) available through the hole in the ceiling. I'd say most can get by with only the AC Power & a _single_ HDMI cable as the AVR performs switching between video sources and the remote control bounces off the screen to the point the 8350 responds just fine!
> 
> 
> I went and snapped a crude pic of my holding a tape measure and it's around 20" down from the ceiling. This could be reduced by using a shorter pipe or none at all, but you haven't mentioned why you're placing the PJ over your _second_ row seating. You'd _want_ to place it as close as possible to the screen thereby increasing the lumen output -- apparently a percentage of light gets lost in the optics when you use a low zoom value (as you place it farther back in the room). What's your target screen size, room deminsions, etc? Where are you placing your equipment and how long o' cables are you estimating to buy? I'm shooting a 124" diag from 13'6" back and it looks tremendous! My equipment is to the side using various 5 meter - 25' cables. And, the photos show it's a 24' room with a pub table area _behind_ my primary seating.
> 
> 
> One more thing, consider using a small UPS for your AC Power -- this will allow steady power and more importantly, the fan to cool things off in case of an unexpected power outage.




You are THE BEST thanks.


To answer some of your questions. Completely light controlled room 13.5w x 20l x 7.5h. Dark almost black ceiling and front wall with lighter side and back walls. Got all of my cables bought and ran and my equipment rack is at the back of the room. I have already planned on a UPS just for the reason you state. I was limited in where I could ceiling mount the PJ. My throw distance is roughly 14 feet so I guess it would actually be in front of my second row (hence my concern for how far it hangs down as people walk under it) as my ceiling height is only 91". 91-9 (for the mount)= 82 - 8 (for the riser) = 74" I'm going for a screen range of 112 to 120" diagonal 16:9


Oh, and to let you know how long I have been working on my build I had originally planned on using an Epson Homecinema 1080.










I know it gets tiring seemingly answering the same question over and over. Had I provided all the info you might have understood why I was concerned about how far the PJ hangs down in my particular application. I know that direct mounting to the ceiling is not good as far as heat build up but with maybe a 1 - 2" extension that would put it down far enough for cooling and high enough to get under it.


Again thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.


Regards,


RTROSE


Oh, BTW I really like how you did the chair rail up high to divide the room and ceiling colors.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

YES, designing, building, budgeting, installing, doing proof-of-concept testing all takes time! I ran my Sony from 2002 in the shell of that room testing projector mounting concepts, 110" screen, old speakers on buckets & wires, proving out cable lengths, functionality, and the such (see attachments).


Thanks for the complement, and that was the idea I was going for: Black-out ceiling above 8'. Actually, that's a small-ish crown molding at the 8' level and a Black chair-rail at 3' which bound the Burgundy fabric covering 1-1/2" acoustic panels.
Attachment 230506 Attachment 230513 

Trading a shorter throw distance versus hitting heads it may make better sense to mount it farther back (actually _over_ or behind the 2nd row seating, maybe in an adjacent room pointing through a "projection window" using a 12" fan for displacing heat) to avoid head-banging during entry.


----------



## btcs41

What type of "breaking in" should I do to this projector? I ordered one last week and it should be here tomorrow







Even though I haven't started making over my HT room, I don't think I'll be able to keep this puppy in the box. Should I be breaking this in the first few hours? i.e. leaving it on for a certain period of time? If so, would someone mind posting a link or instructions.


Thanks!


----------



## thatgameguy

Just got this in the Amazon lightning deal. Looking forward to setting it up today. My first projector!!!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

@btcs41 -- You should consider using it for 50-80 hours for several reasons: 1) you get to play; 2) you can see how it'll fit in your room/what size screen you'll want and from a purchasing standpoint; and 3) you want to be sure the unit doesn't die in hour 32 and not find this out until much later and (for example) the bulb craps out on a short warranty period eventhough you hadn't taken it out of the box!


I've heard folks posting about how great Epson's Customer Service is... I'd rather not have to test them if I can test their product  E-N-J-O-Y


----------



## korygrandy

Love my epson 8350.







New to home ownership, and therefore new to home theater in this manner.


My question is I want to connect my pc to the projector 25' away so I use my tuner, PC output is DVI. Should I just get a 25' DVI to HDMI cable and do I have anything to worry about running the cable that distance?


I'm unsure how else I would get TV on this badboy as I don't spend the $$ on monthly cable premiums and would rather use a PC TV Tuner of some sort.


I attached a couple of pics of my setup, although I've quickly realized the shiny light colored marble tile and light colored walls aren't helping me much when it comes to light control. AV is in the closet to the left of the Behr SilverScreen painted wall.


----------



## allbaugh_04

I was just going to mention, you need a good rug. I was looking at some at Menard's and Lowe's. Real decent prices on them.


Paint the doors a dark color or something, there's a few things you could do.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21337254
> 
> 
> Love my epson 8350.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New to home ownership, and therefore new to home theater in this manner.
> 
> 
> My question is I want to connect my pc to the projector 25' away so I use my tuner, PC output is DVI. Should I just get a 25' DVI to HDMI cable and do I have anything to worry about running the cable that distance?
> 
> 
> I'm unsure how else I would get TV on this badboy as I don't spend the $$ on monthly cable premiums and would rather use a PC TV Tuner of some sort.
> 
> 
> I attached a couple of pics of my setup, although I've quickly realized the shiny light colored marble tile and light colored walls aren't helping me much when it comes to light control. AV is in the closet to the left of the Behr SilverScreen painted wall.



you would need dvi/hdmi and you would need to run audio cables as well

as the converted will only carry video. you don't mention the pc situation

could you upgrade the video card to one with hdmi out?

then run a 30foot hdmi to receiver


otherwise to get dolby digital from the tv you would need to run some digital cable the same length.


did you see the review comparing the silver screen to sherman williams equivalent?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

You shouldn't have any issue using a 25' HDMI cable - Monoprice has 'em for reasonable $$. Don't cheap-out, instead buy one of their Premium series (no Hi Speed required, not 3D or ARC) that use thicker wires & higher quality sheilding. The deal is: if it works at that distance you're done... if not then your cable is losing signal. I've been running mine at 6-meters so 25' seems fine. I think you'll find buying some combination of a DVI to HDMI adapter, or a short DVI to HDMI cable & a F-to-F HDMI adapter will allow you to buy a HDMI to HDMI cable by doing the conversion at the PC end.


I'd suggest shortening that ceiling mount and utilizing the lens-shift function. This will save you on your HDMI cable length as well!


----------



## faxmonkey

Mitsubishi HC4000 300-Inch 1080p on Amazon for 1085. Is this a good deal? I'm debating the Epson vs. the Mitsu.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21337486
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have any issue using a 25' HDMI cable - Monoprice has 'em for reasonable $$. Don't cheap-out, instead buy one of their Premium series (no Hi Speed required, not 3D or ARC) that use thicker wires & higher quality sheilding. The deal is: if it works at that distance you're done... if not then your cable is losing signal. I've been running mine at 6-meters so 25' seems fine. I think you'll find buying some combination of a DVI to HDMI adapter, or a short DVI to HDMI cable & a F-to-F HDMI adapter will allow you to buy a HDMI to HDMI cable by doing the conversion at the PC end.



I originally tried the DVI to HDMI from the PC, connected to a 25' Blue Jean HDMI but I think the BlueJean HDMI cable is incompatible. When connecting a different (and shorter) HDMI it worked fine however. I think the reason being is the BlueJean is 1.4 but this is just a guess, I doubt it's due to loss of quality as those blueJean cables are supposed to be pretty good.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21337486
> 
> 
> I'd suggest shortening that ceiling mount and utilizing the lens-shift function. This will save you on your HDMI cable length as well!



I raied it up and I was having keystone issues. I couldnt seem to find any adjustments with this projector for keystone, so the image was wider at the top then it was at the bottom.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kevin Woodward* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you would need dvi/hdmi and you would need to run audio cables as well
> 
> as the converted will only carry video. you don't mention the pc situation
> 
> could you upgrade the video card to one with hdmi out?
> 
> then run a 30foot hdmi to receiver



I am limited by a shorty PCI-E slot but upgrading the video card is a possibility, but I would prefer to do it with cables.


Yes I will be adding a PCI-E Soundcard that can do 5.1 out and I will run that up to the receiver in the same AV closet, so the wires won't need to be very long for that...just the projector inputs that need to be 25' as that is the distance to my AV closet.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21337285
> 
> 
> I was just going to mention, you need a good rug. I was looking at some at Menard's and Lowe's. Real decent prices on them.
> 
> 
> Paint the doors a dark color or something, there's a few things you could do.



For the reflections...ahh yes! I'm actually glad I didnt find this forum before hand as I hadn't even thought about that and I'm sure it would have made me paranoid to the point I would have never bought the projector.


My plan for the reflections is to paint the doors a dark marron, and then some contrasting dark walls with, yes a nice big square dark rug. I plan on playing with some rugs I have upstairs to see the differences.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21337877
> 
> 
> I originally tried the DVI to HDMI from the PC, connected to a 25' Blue Jean HDMI but I think the BlueJean HDMI cable is incompatible. When connecting a different (and shorter) HDMI it worked fine however. I think the reason being is the BlueJean is 1.4 but this is just a guess, I doubt it's due to loss of quality as those blueJean cables are supposed to be pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I raied it up and I was having keystone issues. I couldnt seem to find any adjustments with this projector for keystone, so the image was wider at the top then it was at the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am limited by a shorty PCI-E slot but upgrading the video card is a possibility, but I would prefer to do it with cables.
> 
> 
> Yes I will be adding a PCI-E Soundcard that can do 5.1 out and I will run that up to the receiver in the same AV closet, so the wires won't need to be very long for that...just the projector inputs that need to be 25' as that is the distance to my AV closet.



Doubt it on the compatibility. Cable quality, length, ... many other issues possible. That's why it was suggested to get a 22AWG Monoprice cable.


There is no keystone adjustment. Your problem was you did not follow the mounting instructions. Having lens shift means you mount the PJ level, plumb, and parallel to the screen. Do NOT point it at the center of the screen.


----------



## embo500

This past weekend, I got my 8350 + 100" Elite screen up and running. This is my first ever projector, and I am thrilled and delighted at how amazing it looks. I am coming from a 50" Samsung plasma, so the blacks aren't quite as black as with the Sammy, but still, overall it is an incredibly immersive experience watching on the Epson.


One question. I have a Dish Network 722 HD receiver. I would love to make that Dish remote control power on/off for the projector. Does anyone know a number code for a Dish Network remote that will allow me to turn power off and on for the 8350? I've tried the scanning thing, but had no luck, so I'm wondering if I'm just missing something, or if it truly cannot control the Epson.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21338107
> 
> 
> There is no keystone adjustment. Your problem was you did not follow the mounting instructions. Having lens shift means you mount the PJ level, plumb, and parallel to the screen. Do NOT point it at the center of the screen.



Ayuh, my problem (besides reading the instructions







)was when I was playing with lens shift prior to my projector being level, plumb and parallel. Once reverting my lens-shift to oob settings, it forced me to do the above and I now completely understand what lens shift is. I can see the lens moving in my imagination and it makes sense.


I think the hvac dropdown I have might prevent me from mounting right next to the ceiling, but I am definitely going to mount it higher than what it is now. In that pic I only had it mounted with 1 bolt







I snapped the other bolt head off because I couldn't find the drill to pre-drill.


Now that I have it dampered and mounted properly to the floor-joice I will be playing with the lens shift!










Thanks for the advice, I will pickup one of those monoprice and keep you posted.


----------



## thatgameguy

Anyone have issues where a PS3 doesn't work over HDMI? I get no signal but component works fine. Help?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21338914
> 
> 
> Anyone have issues where a PS3 doesn't work over HDMI? I get no signal but component works fine. Help?



did you try to reset ps3, press and hold power button for 10+ seconds till it beeps.


----------



## thatgameguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> did you try to reset ps3, press and hold power button for 10+ seconds till it beeps.



Yup. I used to work in the game industry and did that all the time to reset these units. Found out the 360 won't display in HDMI and going though the PC VGA cables everything is slightly shifted to one side but that is an Xbox thing I van't figure out.


Edit: false alarm. Bad hdmi cable!


----------



## nick_danger

I've searched for this and read through a lot of posts in this thread so far, but is there a consensus on what the best ceiling mount is for this projector? I should probably define "best" as "best bang for the buck".


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21341080
> 
> 
> I've searched for this and read through a lot of posts in this thread so far, but is there a consensus on what the best ceiling mount is for this projector? I should probably define "best" as "best bang for the buck".



Chief RPAU

*This still requires a pole and ceiling mount,


http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPAU


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21341100
> 
> 
> Chief RPAU
> 
> *This still requires a pole and ceiling mount,
> http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPAU



Crap, I admit I don't really know anything about this. So there isn't just a kit that comes with everything I need? I need a 1) projector mount, 2) extension pole, and 3) a ceiling mount?


This deal's getting worse all the time... (Lando voice)


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21341301
> 
> 
> Crap, I admit I don't really know anything about this. So there isn't just a kit that comes with everything I need? I need a 1) projector mount, 2) extension pole, and 3) a ceiling mount?
> 
> 
> This deal's getting worse all the time... (Lando voice)



There are other options but most here like the Chief.

I personally use the Peerless PRS-UNV.

It mounts directly to the ceiling(stud) or you can add a pole if needed/desired.

Easy to install, adjust tilt and pitch but without a pole, you need to set and lock the roll(so projector face is aligned perfectly with screen).

http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr....aspx/av/13563 


As for a pole and mounting the pole to the ceiling, parts from the hardware store can be bought cheap if you don't want to buy the manufacturers overpriced parts.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vullcan* /forum/post/21336530
> 
> 
> ... or you can simply go to the hardware store and pick up a schedule 40 pipe 1.5" in diameter with the threads already on it. To affix the pipe to the ceiling in the same area you will also find flanges that will accept the threaded 1.5" pipe along with having screw holes to affix the flange to a stud. You can paint the pipe and flange to match your ceiling.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21341405
> 
> 
> There are other options but most here like the Chief.
> 
> I personally use the Peerless PRS-UNV.
> 
> It mounts directly to the ceiling(stud) or you can add a pole if needed/desired.
> 
> Easy to install, adjust tilt and pitch but without a pole, you need to set and lock the roll(so projector face is aligned perfectly with screen).
> 
> http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr....aspx/av/13563
> 
> 
> As for a pole and mounting the pole to the ceiling, parts from the hardware store can be bought cheap if you don't want to buy the manufacturers overpriced parts.



I do appreciate the input. Thank you.


I have a fairly low ceiling, about 7.5 feet (I don't remember the exact height off the top of my head) and I'm slightly worried about people hitting their heads on the projector (I'm 6'2" and some of my friends are closer to 6'5"). I don't feel that I need to build a hush box or anything like that, but I would sort of like to frame it in. If someone is going to hit his head, I would rather he hit unforgiving wood than knock the projector around.


Anyone done something like that in conjunction with a ceiling mount? Or would it just be simpler to build a wooden platform into the ceiling? Granted, I would be careful to provide proper air flow...


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21341490
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the input. Thank you.
> 
> 
> I have a fairly low ceiling, about 7.5 feet (I don't remember the exact height off the top of my head) and I'm slightly worried about people hitting their heads on the projector (I'm 6'2" and some of my friends are closer to 6'5"). I don't feel that I need to build a hush box or anything like that, but I would sort of like to frame it in. If someone is going to hit his head, I would rather he hit unforgiving wood than knock the projector around.
> 
> 
> Anyone done something like that in conjunction with a ceiling mount? Or would it just be simpler to build a wooden platform into the ceiling? Granted, I would be careful to provide proper air flow...



The Peerless PRS-UNV is very low profile when mounted directly to the ceiling.

If you built a perfectly size hush box, you may gain an inch in height at most over the ceiling mount.


If you install the projector above the back of a chair, people shouldn't hit it as most people do not stand under the back of a chair.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

If you're anywhere close to the back of the room there were some posts above showing a really sweet glass-shelf available from Amazon. Of course, you can mount the Chief RPA 168 directlt to the ceiling without a nipple or floor flange. Of course, a custom-built wooden shelf/box would suffice as well acting like a tabletop just really high in the room!


----------



## MississippiMan

I'm not sure why it must be continually repeated, nor how even NOOBs can overlook the many times it has been mentioned on this thread yet still say they are clueless and/or cannot find the info, but absolutely...hands down, the Chief "RPA 168" and the *"Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate"* are the best solutions out there for the money.


It's sturdy, extremely low profile, has the best adjust-ability, accepts 1.5" NPT Threaded Pipe, and the total package from Projector People (call Kirk Ritari ext. 2002) runs about $160.00.


Pipe extensions can be Steel, or Sched. 40 PVC...the later being so easy to work with it's insane to use Steel when a PJ like the 8350 weighs only 16 lbs.


Here's my offer...anyone who reads this, and can somehow retain the information, either PM me for detailed help on getting / installing the Chief in any of a variety of ways, or send anyone who you are responding to about a mount to the same location.


I'll see they get fixed up rightly.


Now I know other mounts can be / are used. And that for some, price is such a determining factor that some are willing to try just about any piece of....well, any Mount that cost under $50.00 on Flea-Bay or Amazon. But I also know how many times I've read of how dissatisfied a great many people have been with such mounts. Goodness knows, it's all on this Thread. And any "Regular" on this thread should know as well.


If I sound fussy, it's just because I hate like the dickens to see anyone fail to get the best measure of advice possible, and wind up heading a wrong direction...and worse...wind up hating the experience.

*42Plasmaman,* not to pick on you personally, but suggesting that anyone mount a 8350 w/RPU or RPA 6-point Mount inverted & directly onto a Ceiling *AND* and then even partially inclose it with a Box is telling them to resign the PJ to having extreme over-heating issues.


That is unless a Forced Air Ventilation method is used like a 3-4 Mini-Muffin Fan assembly that will draw accumulated air out the back of the Box.


Shoot, even without a Box around it, mounting a 8350 with 3.5" of the Ceiling spells trouble. There exists a blanket of warm air in both Summer & Winter that the heat from the 8350 will contribute to, and the area around the PJ will build heat upon heat until it makes like a convection oven, with hot air swirling around and through the unit. Even without a Box, if mounted in such a manner, a Fan-Plate must be used to keep air moving past the PJ.


----------



## allbaugh_04

I wish posts that were very informative could be stickied and put at the beginning of a thread of this size.


The search function works, but it can get sketchy.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21341896
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why it must be continually repeated, nor how even NOOBs can overlook the many times it has been mentioned on this thread yet still say they are clueless and/or cannot find the info, but absolutely...hands down, the Chief "RPA 168" and the *"Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate"* are the best solutions out there for the money.
> 
> 
> It's sturdy, extremely low profile, has the best adjust-ability, accepts 1.5" NPT Threaded Pipe, and the total package from Projector People (call Kirk Ritari ext. 2002) runs about $160.00.
> 
> 
> Pipe extensions can be Steel, or Sched. 40 PVC...the later being so easy to work with it's insane to use Steel when a PJ like the 8350 weighs only 16 lbs.
> 
> 
> Here's my offer...anyone who reads this, and can somehow retain the information, either PM me for detailed help on getting / installing the Chief in any of a variety of ways, or send anyone who you are responding to about a mount to the same location.
> 
> 
> I'll see they get fixed up rightly.
> 
> 
> Now I know other mounts can be / are used. And that for some, price is such a determining factor that some are willing to try just about any piece of....well, any Mount that cost under $50.00 on Flea-Bay or Amazon. But I also know how many times I've read of how dissatisfied a great many people have been with such mounts. Goodness knows, it's all on this Thread. And any "Regular" on this thread should know as well.
> 
> 
> If I sound fussy, it's just because I hate like the dickens to see anyone fail to get the best measure of advice possible, and wind up heading a wrong direction...and worse...wind up hating the experience.
> 
> *42Plasmaman,* not to pick on you personally, but suggesting that anyone mount a 8350 w/RPU or RPA 6-point Mount inverted & directly onto a Ceiling *AND* and then even partially inclose it with a Box is telling them to resign the PJ to having extreme over-heating issues.
> 
> 
> That is unless a Forced Air Ventilation method is used like a 3-4 Mini-Muffin Fan assembly that will draw accumulated air out the back of the Box.
> 
> 
> Shoot, even without a Box around it, mounting a 8350 with 3.5" of the Ceiling spells trouble. There exists a blanket of warm air in both Summer & Winter that the heat from the 8350 will contribute to, and the area around the PJ will build heat upon heat until it makes like a convection oven, with hot air swirling around and through the unit. Even without a Box, if mounted in such a manner, a Fan-Plate must be used to keep air moving past the PJ.



NOOBS like me would rather buy a kit than have to figure out pvc this and flange that.


what is a mini-muffin fan assembly, and what is a fan plate?


how much distance do I need in a pipe for an 8 foot ceiling to not have a heat problem?


thanks


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21341896
> 
> *42Plasmaman,* not to pick on you personally, but suggesting that anyone mount a 8350 w/RPU or RPA 6-point Mount inverted & directly onto a Ceiling *AND* and then even partially inclose it with a Box is telling them to resign the PJ to having extreme over-heating issues.
> 
> 
> That is unless a Forced Air Ventilation method is used like a 3-4 Mini-Muffin Fan assembly that will draw accumulated air out the back of the Box.
> 
> 
> Shoot, even without a Box around it, mounting a 8350 with 3.5" of the Ceiling spells trouble. There exists a blanket of warm air in both Summer & Winter that the heat from the 8350 will contribute to, and the area around the PJ will build heat upon heat until it makes like a convection oven, with hot air swirling around and through the unit. Even without a Box, if mounted in such a manner, a Fan-Plate must be used to keep air moving past the PJ.



I think you misread my post.

I was saying if he used a box instead of a ceiling mount, he wouldn't gain much more height over using a ceiling mount.










Using a ceiling mount AND box is a little over engineering don't you think?










If someone wants to built a box, I recommend something like this but keep the rear & front open to allow airflow.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1149


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21341896
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why it must be continually repeated, nor how even NOOBs can overlook the many times it has been mentioned on this thread yet still say they are clueless and/or cannot find the info, but absolutely...hands down, the Chief "RPA 168" and the *"Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate"* are the best solutions out there for the money.
> 
> 
> It's sturdy, extremely low profile, has the best adjust-ability, accepts 1.5" NPT Threaded Pipe, and the total package from Projector People (call Kirk Ritari ext. 2002) runs about $160.00.



As another member suggested, please post this in the original post so it can easily be found.

Some of our search kungfu is not that sharp or way to many posts show up to review depedning on the key word used.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21341896
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why it must be continually repeated, nor how even NOOBs can overlook the many times it has been mentioned on this thread yet still say they are clueless and/or cannot find the info, but absolutely...hands down, the Chief "RPA 168" and the *"Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate"* are the best solutions out there for the money.



MMan,


May I suggest taking all the repetitive topics (like mount, distance calculator, lens shift, HDMI etc...) and creating a FAQ page in the very beginning that covers all this. Obviously this is a very big thread, but a lot of the questions from the posts can be covered by a FAQ section. Just a thought


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21341626
> 
> 
> If you install the projector above the back of a chair, people shouldn't hit it as most people do not stand under the back of a chair.



Excellent idea. The plan was to install it either over the first row or second row, but now slightly behind the second row seems like the best option.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21341630
> 
> 
> If you're anywhere close to the back of the room there were some posts above showing a really sweet glass-shelf available from Amazon. Of course, you can mount the Chief RPA 168 directlt to the ceiling without a nipple or floor flange. Of course, a custom-built wooden shelf/box would suffice as well acting like a tabletop just really high in the room!



The projector will be ~14' back in a ~26' room, so the wall mount won't work... unless... The plan was to keep the area open, but using moulding and an archway to make it seem like a separate room. If I could make the archway low enough (at least in the center), I could use a wall mount on it but then I'd have to have the projector back further than I wanted... but it might solve my problem. Of course, ceiling height already being a factor makes that difficult.


Hmm, you guys have given me much to think about. Thanks!


----------



## rugbykid

8350 - Flicker Problem on 1080p source?


I haven't read through all 200 pages of this particular thread, but around page 17 people were complaining about a flickering issue with 1080p sources on their 8350. I have this problem with my xbox 360 as well as my computer. The issue goes away when changing to 720p on the xbox or a 720 resolution on the computer.


I was wondering if there was ever any resolution to this? Much appreciated in advance.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21342726
> 
> 
> 8350 - Flicker Problem on 1080p source?
> 
> 
> I haven't read through all 200 pages of this particular thread, but around page 17 people were complaining about a flickering issue with 1080p sources on their 8350. I have this problem with my xbox 360 as well as my computer. The issue goes away when changing to 720p on the xbox or a 720 resolution on the computer.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there was ever any resolution to this? Much appreciated in advance.



If using HDMI, first try disconnecting all HDMI cables and reseating.

If that doesn't fix it, try swapping out HDMI cables.


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21342791
> 
> 
> If using HDMI, first try disconnecting all HDMI cables and reseating.
> 
> If that doesn't fix it, try swapping out HDMI cables.



I've tried several new cables and have also went directly from the source to the projector (skipped my A/V Reciever)... I'm kind of at a loss and saw quite a bit of clammer over the issue earlier in the year when he projector firs came out but never saw a resolution










I've dealt with just changing my xbox to 720p but now that I've wanted to start streaming 1080p movies from my HTPC, I really want to get it fixed.


Thanks for the response, by the way.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21342726
> 
> 
> 8350 - Flicker Problem on 1080p source?
> 
> 
> I haven't read through all 200 pages of this particular thread, but around page 17 people were complaining about a flickering issue with 1080p sources on their 8350. I have this problem with my xbox 360 as well as my computer. The issue goes away when changing to 720p on the xbox or a 720 resolution on the computer.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there was ever any resolution to this? Much appreciated in advance.



I'm sorry I don't have a solution for you - I was going to suggest double checking your cables. Actually, another thing you could try is go into your console settings and turn off automatic display detection. Manually configure the resolution, configure your black level to limited or standard, and video playback source to auto-detect.


I experience no flicker from my Xbox 360 or laptop (NVIDIA 325M GT) over HDMI. My cables are all "high-speed" 22g or 24g Monoprice cables. Yamaha RX-A3000 is my AVR. Rock solid 1080p to my eyes. I'm normally very sensitive to refresh rates, judder, frame stutters, rainbow effects, etc. if that matters at all.


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21343215
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I don't have a solution for you - I was going to suggest double checking your cables. Actually, another thing you could try is go into your console settings and turn off automatic display detection. Manually configure the resolution, configure your black level to limited or standard, and video playback source to auto-detect.
> 
> 
> I experience no flicker from my Xbox 360 or laptop (NVIDIA 325M GT) over HDMI. My cables are all "high-speed" 22g or 24g Monoprice cables. Yamaha RX-A3000 is my AVR. Rock solid 1080p to my eyes. I'm normally very sensitive to refresh rates, judder, frame stutters, rainbow effects, etc. if that matters at all.



I may try some higher quality cables. Even though I've tried several, I can't say I know if one hdmi I had laying around was much better than the other. I am also very sensitive to stuff like that, and I'll tell you what...you don't need to be sensitive to notice this flickering. It's very noticeable to pretty much anyone I've shown.


I know a lot of people on this forum had this problem (pages 16/17/18) so any other experience/suggestions welcome...for know I'll go down the cable path.


Thanks for the current responses.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21343146
> 
> 
> I've tried several new cables and have also went directly from the source to the projector (skipped my A/V Reciever)... I'm kind of at a loss and saw quite a bit of clammer over the issue earlier in the year when he projector firs came out but never saw a resolution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've dealt with just changing my xbox to 720p but now that I've wanted to start streaming 1080p movies from my HTPC, I really want to get it fixed.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response, by the way.



Have you tried both HDMI inputs?


----------



## faxmonkey

So, I've decided to go with the Epson 8350 based on reviews and the 2 year warranty.

I've looked http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/ to get an idea of placement. The distance from ceiling to projector comes in at roughly 3'. With my ceiling height of 7'-5" this projector will be so low everyone will be hitting their head against it. Am I missing something???


Screen: 100" 16:9

Distance from ceiling 12"

Projector Distance from screen: 9'-9"


----------



## lespurgeon

faxchimp-

That is where the adjustability comes in. You can place the projector at any reasonable height, and dial-in the offset that you need. You can go several inches above the top of screen.


----------



## faxmonkey

If i dial-in the offset or zoom to where i need it, does that degrade picture quality?


Better site. http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/


----------



## lespurgeon

I use both horizontal and vertical offset with no problem. I have seen some people report that going to the very limits can be a problem, but if you can center the projector horizontally and not go too far beyond the edge of screen, then you will have no quality problem.


----------



## faxmonkey

Thank you! @lespurgeon


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21343263
> 
> 
> I may try some higher quality cables. Even though I've tried several, I can't say I know if one hdmi I had laying around was much better than the other. I am also very sensitive to stuff like that, and I'll tell you what...you don't need to be sensitive to notice this flickering. It's very noticeable to pretty much anyone I've shown.
> 
> 
> I know a lot of people on this forum had this problem (pages 16/17/18) so any other experience/suggestions welcome...for know I'll go down the cable path.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the current responses.



I assume you've attempted connecting directly to the projector? Are you using an AVR or HDMI switch in-between?


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21344163
> 
> 
> I assume you've attempted connecting directly to the projector? Are you using an AVR or HDMI switch in-between?



Yeah, I have tried connecting to both HDMI ports on the projector as well as going directly to it and bypassing all switches and a/v receivers.


It's very weird. It doesnt happen on my Blu-ray player set for 1080p/24, but it does on my XBOX360 set to 1080p. It does not with XB set to 720. And with my high end computer it will flicker, and with the other low end computer it won't.


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21344352
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have tried connecting to both HDMI ports on the projector as well as going directly to it and bypassing all switches and a/v receivers.
> 
> 
> It's very weird. It doesnt happen on my Blu-ray player set for 1080p/24, but it does on my XBOX360 set to 1080p. It does not with XB set to 720. And with my high end computer it will flicker, and with the other low end computer it won't.




Okay I lied, it does it with everything except the Bluray player


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21344694
> 
> 
> Okay I lied, it does it with everything except the Bluray player



To summarize:


OK - Blu-ray player 1080p/24

OK - Xbox 720p

OK - HTPC 1280x720 (720p)

OK - Old computer 1920x1080 (1080p)


Flicker - Xbox 1080p

Flicker - HTPC 1080p


Some more suggestions/troubleshooting (in no particular order):

1. Blu-ray player with 24p/film mode off?

2. have you tried the Blu-ray player cable on the other devices?

3. are you using any DVI-->HDMI converters?

4. do you have a second Xbox or a friend's Xbox to test?

5. you mentioned two computers - Are the graphics ATI? NVIDIA? Intel? Only the HTPC is having issues? Most up-to-date graphics drivers?

6. Can you return/exchange the Epson?

7. Have you changed any settings on the Epson, like the 2:2 pulldown or anything? Try restoring the default settings on the Epson and see if the problem goes away.


If your computer doesn't send the correct 1080p information, it will not display or will not display correctly, so drivers or driver settings could be the culprit there. Other than faulty hardware, there should be no reason the Xbox doesn't output properly (I have the original HDMI black Elite Xbox connected no problem).


See about answering the above questions and let us know.


----------



## Speqtre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21344352
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have tried connecting to both HDMI ports on the projector as well as going directly to it and bypassing all switches and a/v receivers.
> 
> 
> It's very weird. It doesnt happen on my Blu-ray player set for 1080p/24, but it does on my XBOX360 set to 1080p. It does not with XB set to 720. And with my high end computer it will flicker, and with the other low end computer it won't.



Which XBox 360 do you have - new slim, or one of the older versions? My new slim does 1080p fine, but my nephews older white one had a heck of a time with it.


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21346466
> 
> 
> To summarize:
> 
> 
> OK - Blu-ray player 1080p/24
> 
> OK - Xbox 720p
> 
> OK - HTPC 1280x720 (720p)
> 
> OK - Old computer 1920x1080 (1080p)
> 
> 
> Flicker - Xbox 1080p
> 
> Flicker - HTPC 1080p
> 
> 
> Some more suggestions/troubleshooting (in no particular order):
> 
> 1. Blu-ray player with 24p/film mode off?
> 
> 2. have you tried the Blu-ray player cable on the other devices?
> 
> 3. are you using any DVI-->HDMI converters?
> 
> 4. do you have a second Xbox or a friend's Xbox to test?
> 
> 5. you mentioned two computers - Are the graphics ATI? NVIDIA? Intel? Only the HTPC is having issues? Most up-to-date graphics drivers?
> 
> 6. Can you return/exchange the Epson?
> 
> 7. Have you changed any settings on the Epson, like the 2:2 pulldown or anything? Try restoring the default settings on the Epson and see if the problem goes away.
> 
> 
> If your computer doesn't send the correct 1080p information, it will not display or will not display correctly, so drivers or driver settings could be the culprit there. Other than faulty hardware, there should be no reason the Xbox doesn't output properly (I have the original HDMI black Elite Xbox connected no problem).
> 
> 
> See about answering the above questions and let us know.



1.I will try the Blu-Ray player with other settings - I haven't messed with it much because it was working well. It's actually completely disconnected right now so hopefully I'm not remembering this info with my last projector.

I will try it.

2. Yes

3. No converters

4. I can maybe try a roommates PS3 but no secondary XBOX

5. Intel onboard video - Noticed that both computers were doing it last night on 1920x1080 but both stopped when i changed to 1280x720.

6.It's been less than a year but more than 6 months with it...not sure I can exchange or return. I do have a replacement plan but would rather use that for something more serious.

7. I have noticed it since day 1 on the xbox360 with minimal customization. I believe I have tried default settings.


Thanks again for the responses.


To go more into detail-

The problem is a quick flicker of white on both the top and bottom of the screen. It happens every 5-10 minutes when using these sources.


----------



## rugbykid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speqtre* /forum/post/21346696
> 
> 
> Which XBox 360 do you have - new slim, or one of the older versions? My new slim does 1080p fine, but my nephews older white one had a heck of a time with it.



I have an older white XBOX360. I may need to find a new one just to try.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21347770
> 
> 
> I have an older white XBOX360. I may need to find a new one just to try.



The black Elite 120GB Xbox (that I'm using) was the first HDMI-equipped Xbox. The white w/HDMI came later, there shouldn't be a systemic issue with those. If anything just get the newer one because it has 250GB of storage, and most importantly, it doesn't sound like a never-ending space shuttle launch. The new slim ones are whisper quiet. Worst case scenario: buy the new slim one and if the flicker is still there then return it same day. At least then you'll know it's not your Xbox.


As for the onboard Intel graphics... which series? Is it the newer Intel HD, HD 2000, or HD 3000 graphics? Or is it the older 950, X3000, X4500 graphics? The newer stuff should have zero issues with 1080p...


Also, you mention flickering lines at the edges of the screen... it shouldn't matter, but try adjusting the overscan settings on the Epson. I'm reaching, but hey, gotta try everything.


At this point, I'm betting it's the projector.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21347766
> 
> 
> 1.I will try the Blu-Ray player with other settings - I haven't messed with it much because it was working well. It's actually completely disconnected right now so hopefully I'm not remembering this info with my last projector.
> 
> I will try it.
> 
> 2. Yes
> 
> 3. No converters
> 
> 4. I can maybe try a roommates PS3 but no secondary XBOX
> 
> 5. Intel onboard video - Noticed that both computers were doing it last night on 1920x1080 but both stopped when i changed to 1280x720.
> 
> 6.It's been less than a year but more than 6 months with it...not sure I can exchange or return. I do have a replacement plan but would rather use that for something more serious.
> 
> 7. I have noticed it since day 1 on the xbox360 with minimal customization. I believe I have tried default settings.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the responses.
> 
> 
> To go more into detail-
> 
> The problem is a quick flicker of white on both the top and bottom of the screen. It happens every 5-10 minutes when using these sources.



I didn't read all of the suggestions/responses, but it seems like a HDMI cable issue. Do you have another 1080p display? If so, I would use the HDMI cable that works with the bluray and then test each input device at 1080p to the other 1080p display. If it works, then you've validated all the devices and that one HDMI cable. I would do the same test this time with each HDMI cable you plan to use. If this also works, you've validated that all the HDMI cables work properly and it is most certainly the PJ.


You don't really need a heavier gauge HDMI cable to the PJ unless you are planning on going a long distance, say over 25 ft. In any case, you can test all your HDMI cables on your other 1080p device and determine if the PJ is really the issue.


----------



## isingh

Can anyone comment on how does this 8350 compare to Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500UB ? I want to be around $1000 for a projector and my little research directed me towards 6500UB, I could get a refurb but at a little higher price I could get a new 8350 as well so that made a bit confused.


My expectations are: Full 1080p for Movies (mostly) and Games (XBOX360) in a small room 12' by 12' with controlled lighting.


Thanks


----------



## lespurgeon

isingh

I think you would find both pretty similar. 6500 was top-of-line, but 8350 is 2 generations updated. 8350 will be brighter. Black level on 6500 will be a bit darker. My choice was 8350, but you won't go wrong either way.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *isingh* /forum/post/21348707
> 
> 
> Can anyone comment on how does this 8350 compare to Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500UB ? I want to be around $1000 for a projector and my little research directed me towards 6500UB, I could get a refurb but at a little higher price I could get a new 8350 as well so that made a bit confused.
> 
> 
> My expectations are: Full 1080p for Movies (mostly) and Games (XBOX360) in a small room 12' by 12' with controlled lighting.
> 
> 
> Thanks



i would go with the 6500UB


----------



## Jimbo85281

Is one manufacturers Keystone better than another? I know it's done digitally so I'm assuming the way they're done with software differs from company to company. Also, how is the image quality effected on this 8350. I'm about to pull the trigger but will need some horizontal keystone unfortunately.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

The 8350 does no horizontal keystone nor do any that I know of. Just use the lens shift. You don't want to use keystone - it degrades the 1:1 mapping by using a scaler.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21349115
> 
> 
> i would go with the 6500UB



Have you bought a projector yet?


----------



## Jimbo85281




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21349743
> 
> 
> The 8350 does no horizontal keystone nor do any that I know of. Just use the lens shift. You don't want to use keystone - it degrades the 1:1 mapping by using a scaler.



Ahhhh, I guess I confused with the 3010 which does have horizontal keystone but no shift at all H or V. I need to mount on the wall due to room restrictions. So if at the max shift horizontally it's still not enough, I would imagine turning the machine to go the rest of the way would not really work. If so I guess I'm out of luck.


----------



## smiles_hope

Where is the cheapest place to buy this now? I've missed the Amazon lightning deal and my wife wasn't willing to let me buy it on Black Friday but has now given me permission.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smiles_hope* /forum/post/21350762
> 
> 
> Where is the cheapest place to buy this now? I've missed the Amazon lightning deal and my wife wasn't willing to let me buy it on Black Friday but has now given me permission.


 http://lmgtfy.com/?q=epson+8350 


It doesn't look like the price is down where it was before. Keep watching the big box stores and big e-tailers.


----------



## smiles_hope

Wow, I've never heard of google before









Perhaps I should have asked differently...

I was wondering if there were other ways to get it for cheaper. For example, hhgregg had a coupon for 10% off and it was on sale. However a search on google wouldn't have brought it up.


----------



## Sonyad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smiles_hope* /forum/post/21351272
> 
> 
> Wow, I've never heard of google before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should have asked differently...
> 
> I was wondering if there were other ways to get it for cheaper. For example, hhgregg had a coupon for 10% off and it was on sale. However a search on google wouldn't have brought it up.



You have to scour the deal sites like techbargains, dealcatcher and slickdeals. Be forwarned, it can become an addiction.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smiles_hope* /forum/post/21351272
> 
> 
> Wow, I've never heard of google before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should have asked differently...



Sorry, but you never know what people are or aren't able to do on their own. Usually people are pretty good about posting deals they find as they happen. The only other solution is to search for it, like Sonyad said.


----------



## fordracing19

I was at Best Buy Saturday and they matched the Black Friday price.


----------



## Speqtre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fordracing19* /forum/post/21353020
> 
> 
> I was at Best Buy Saturday and they matched the Black Friday price.



Their BF price, or someone elses? Which BB? And please post an ad scan of the receipt with your personal info blacked out...


----------



## thatgameguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The black Elite 120GB Xbox (that I'm using) was the first HDMI-equipped Xbox. The white w/HDMI came later, there shouldn't be a systemic issue with those. If anything just get the newer one because it has 250GB of storage, and most importantly, it doesn't sound like a never-ending space shuttle launch. The new slim ones are whisper quiet. Worst case scenario: buy the new slim one and if the flicker is still there then return it same day. At least then you'll know it's not your Xbox.



Not that it matters here but don't forget that even launch units of the Xbox 360 can display 1080p when using VGA.


----------



## gene9p

BEST BUY matched PC Richard's 998.97 for me today...


can I ask what settings you guys are using..I'm an older Infocus user


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21349759
> 
> 
> Have you bought a projector yet?



not yet


----------



## allbaugh_04

I have patiently waited for about a month. I will tell ya if I find something. Local retailer has one for 1098...


----------



## Speqtre

Barely missed Amazon's 899 Gold Box Deal on the 8350 last week, but after doing some research, went with a $949 B-Stock 6500UB from PP tonight - hopefully I made the right choice!


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BEST BUY matched PC Richard's 998.97 for me today...
> 
> 
> can I ask what settings you guys are using..I'm an older Infocus user



I posted my calibration settings a few pages back. They may be a touch off because you probably have a different screen than me but there a good starting point and will much better than the one I saw floating around the Internet.


----------



## fordracing19




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Speqtre* /forum/post/21353038
> 
> 
> Their BF price, or someone elses? Which BB? And please post an ad scan of the receipt with your personal info blacked out...



Best Buy in Lewisville TX. $999


----------



## ItsJustDoug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rugbykid* /forum/post/21342726
> 
> 
> 8350 - Flicker Problem on 1080p source?
> 
> 
> I haven't read through all 200 pages of this particular thread, but around page 17 people were complaining about a flickering issue with 1080p sources on their 8350. I have this problem with my xbox 360 as well as my computer. The issue goes away when changing to 720p on the xbox or a 720 resolution on the computer.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there was ever any resolution to this? Much appreciated in advance.



Reading through some comments on Amazon...It looks like there is an issue with using Deep Color and the xBox or Blu Ray players...If you are using that try turning that off.


----------



## crapmaster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21055346
> 
> 
> Finally got it mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with how it came out but still have to run the HDMI and power. MM, thanks so much for your advise and boy were you right about going with the RPA168. So simple and elegant. Glad I didn't by some cheap univeral mount. Oh, and that 8350. What a picture. Stunning!




Great looking install, good job! I'm on the same boat myself, would you mind listing the complete part list you used ? Especially I'm interested in what came with the RPA 168 package, did you have to purchase a separate interface bracket or any additional hardware from the mount to 8350, or did the RPA 168 come everything needed to attach the mount to 8350? What did you use as an extension from the ceiling plate to the RPA 168 ?


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcliff* /forum/post/21055346
> 
> 
> Finally got it mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with how it came out but still have to run the HDMI and power. MM, thanks so much for your advise and boy were you right about going with the RPA168. So simple and elegant. Glad I didn't by some cheap univeral mount. Oh, and that 8350. What a picture. Stunning!



beautiful job!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## razavsforum

Hi,


I've just got the 8350, and noticed some horizontal misalignment (-1 red, +0.5 blue). From what I have read here, it is a relatively common issue... thus I am not sure if it is worth returning it (if it is more likely that another unit would be worse).


What do you think? I attach a close up pictures of a vertical line (1 pixel wide black/1 pixel wide white) pattern.


Cheers!


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *razavsforum* /forum/post/21359618
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've just got the 8350, and noticed some horizontal misalignment (-1 red, +0.5 blue). From what I have read here, it is a relatively common issue... thus I am not sure if it is worth returning it (if it is more likely that another unit would be worse).
> 
> 
> What do you think? I attach a close up pictures of a vertical line (1 pixel wide black/1 pixel wide white) pattern.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



return it


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *razavsforum* /forum/post/21359618
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've just got the 8350, and noticed some horizontal misalignment (-1 red, +0.5 blue). From what I have read here, it is a relatively common issue... thus I am not sure if it is worth returning it (if it is more likely that another unit would be worse).
> 
> 
> What do you think? I attach a close up pictures of a vertical line (1 pixel wide black/1 pixel wide white) pattern.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



What you are seeing is typical and getting one better or worse is a gamble.

If you can not see the convergence issue from normal viewing distance, i won't worry about it.


One quick test is to throw some white text on the screen and see if you see coloring fringing on the letter outline from normal viewing distance.

If the letters look pure white, then the coverage is within limits.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crapmaster* /forum/post/21357713
> 
> 
> Great looking install, good job! I'm on the same boat myself, would you mind listing the complete part list you used ? Especially I'm interested in what came with the RPA 168 package, did you have to purchase a separate interface bracket or any additional hardware from the mount to 8350, or did the RPA 168 come everything needed to attach the mount to 8350? What did you use as an extension from the ceiling plate to the RPA 168 ?




This is from Mississippi Man



> Quote:
> I'm not sure why it must be continually repeated, nor how even NOOBs can overlook the many times it has been mentioned on this thread yet still say they are clueless and/or cannot find the info, but absolutely...hands down, the Chief "RPA 168" and the *"Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate"* are the best solutions out there for the money.
> 
> 
> It's sturdy, extremely low profile, has the best adjust-ability, accepts 1.5" NPT Threaded Pipe, and the total package from Projector People (call Kirk Ritari ext. 2002) runs about $160.00.



I called Kirk today and ordered my mount. Very friendly and professional. He knows what he is doing and will get you set up with exactly what you need. Well worth it IMO.


Hope this helps.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## The Sandman

Just got an 8350 and it looks good but i need a screen to take full advantage of it. Right now im using a thin wrinkly sheet thats far from ideal. Im looking for a screen that will do well for movies in almost darkness and sports with some ambient light. One downside of my room is that it is bright. I finally got the ceiling painted a light gray which definitely helps but the walls are still a fairly bright yellow. I dont want to spend more than 400 on a screen.

Heres what im considering:

Jamestown both white and gray

Elite ezframe cinewhite and gray

Dalite model B high power

Any recommendations?


----------



## thebigeast44

Quick question regarding convergence. Has anyone had the opportunity to view multiple 8350's with varied levels of convergence and noticed significant differences in the sharpness of the picture? I know mine is not perfect, but from normal viewing distances I see no color fringing and the picture appears reasonably sharp.


I'm just wondering as you go from a half pixel off to a full and then 1 1/2 etc. how big the difference is?


Thanks in advance for any and all replies!


----------



## gene9p

I'm still messing around with mine..I shine it on an off white wall about 14 feet away giving a good 110+ screen


Picture is very sharp without using the menu sharpness adjustments...each mode of course looks different..for some movies I like dynamic..others natural..for tv sports, Hockey and football, Living room appeals to me..I am doing a little tweaking with brightness and contrast, and some time next week i plan to pop in a thx test disc and adjust picture.


I know it just cannot produce anything like my PIONEER ELITE KURO tv..but then my tv cannot get me that in theater feel with movies, and sports so the tradeoff is well worth it at so such an affordable price.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman* /forum/post/21360050
> 
> 
> Heres what im considering:
> 
> Jamestown both white and gray
> 
> Elite ezframe cinewhite and gray
> 
> Dalite model B high power
> 
> Any recommendations?



The only one I can say from personal experience is a white Elitescreens screen. I've had two and both were hot-spotting sparking POS's. I have heard good things about there cinegrey material but have never owned it.


----------



## The Sandman

^^^^

Ok thank you

Any one else?


----------



## LDog2

Having similar "flicker" issue with XBOX 360 slim on 1080P. Other sources are fine and 720P works great. Anyone ever figure out what this might be? Cables are not the issue in my case and other sources are fine.


----------



## kawie01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21354897
> 
> 
> I posted my calibration settings a few pages back. They may be a touch off because you probably have a different screen than me but there a good starting point and will much better than the one I saw floating around the Internet.



Droid6,


Liking your natural settings that you posted. Obviously had to do minor changes. Do you have other settings that you care to share (dynamic, cinema). Also how did you come about your settings?


Thanks.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21363397
> 
> 
> Droid6,
> 
> 
> Liking your natural settings that you posted. Obviously had to do minor changes. Do you have other settings that you care to share (dynamic, cinema). Also how did you come about your settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I only calibrated the Natural preset, I probably won't do any of the other presets because I'll never use them. I have a Chroma 5 colorimeter and Calman that I used to calibrate and trust me I spent a healthy amount of time getting it just right. I probably should have saved a report but I didn't plan on posting my results, I just decided to after I saw the ones from that one website (I hope that guy is in rehab).


----------



## kawie01

Thanks again. I understand about not doing the others. I am quit sure that you spent a great deal of time on the ones that you posted. Thanks again for your work.


----------



## ianick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman* /forum/post/21361346
> 
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> Ok thank you
> 
> Any one else?



I'm using a monoprice screen ( Link ) that I'm very happy with. It's my first pj/screen so I may not be the best resource. But it hasn't given me any trouble and looks fantastic.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman* /forum/post/21360050
> 
> 
> Just got an 8350 and it looks good but i need a screen to take full advantage of it. Right now im using a thin wrinkly sheet thats far from ideal. Im looking for a screen that will do well for movies in almost darkness and sports with some ambient light. One downside of my room is that it is bright. I finally got the ceiling painted a light gray which definitely helps but the walls are still a fairly bright yellow. I dont want to spend more than 400 on a screen.
> 
> Heres what im considering:
> 
> Jamestown both white and gray
> 
> Elite ezframe cinewhite and gray
> 
> Dalite model B high power
> 
> Any recommendations?




Try this one on for "Size". It's made to order for the 8350's lumen output, your ghastly yellow walls....and your budget.









http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Ultra...f235gy-115.htm 


MMan


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21363611
> 
> 
> I only calibrated the Natural preset, I probably won't do any of the other presets because I'll never use them. I have a Chroma 5 colorimeter and Calman that I used to calibrate and trust me I spent a healthy amount of time getting it just right. I probably should have saved a report but I didn't plan on posting my results, I just decided to after I saw the ones from that one website (I hope that guy is in rehab).




I just used them and I think they are terrific..I watched the first Harry Potter film from the UK box set i just got ..followed by Pixar's THE INCREDIBLES.Both the live action movie and the animation were spot on in my simple set up


thanks for posting them..well done


----------



## gazzagazza

I don't know if anyone has commented but the numbers below look wrong to me... If brightness is so far negative, and contrast so far positive it looks like you must have a levels mismatch between your source and projector. If the levels are right you should have only to adjust brightness and contrast a small amount if at all. I'm guessing that your source is running video levels (16-235) while you have the projector set to extended range (0-255). This might also explain the large tweaks to gamma that you've made.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21302547
> 
> 
> These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372425
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has commented but the numbers below look wrong to me... If brightness is so far negative, and contrast so far positive it looks like you must have a levels mismatch between your source and projector. If the levels are right you should have only to adjust brightness and contrast a small amount if at all. I'm guessing that your source is running video levels (16-235) while you have the projector set to extended range (0-255). This might also explain the large tweaks to gamma that you've made.



You're mistaken. His brightness and contrast settings are perfectly fine. In fact, mine are exactly the same.


Additionally, if you want to be able properly calibrate the Epson 8350, you MUST set it to Extended. If you set it to Normal, Black levels below 16 are crushed.


Plus, the Gamma on the Epsons are off. If you want to get a 2.2 Gamma across the board, you have to use the Customized menu and lower them considerably.



Trust me on this. His numbers look fine to me. My Epson 8350 has been calibrated to 2.2 Gamma with a flat grayscale using ChromaPure and a Display 3 PRO and his results are similar to mine.


----------



## gazzagazza

Yes, I run mine on extended and my source is extended (madVR). I have brightness at +1 and contrast at -2.


Forget the calibration software and sensor, you should be able to get greyscale in the ballpark with a suitable calibration dvd and not have to hugely alter brightness or contrast. If you do, you have a levels mismatch with your source.


Then after you've solved that move on with the calibration package.


This is why professionals use a reference signal source to drive the projector and calibrate it first, then its easy to see if there is a gross error later with the source connected.


Trust me on this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21372583
> 
> 
> You're mistaken. His brightness and contrast settings are perfectly fine. In fact, mine are exactly the same.
> 
> 
> Additionally, if you want to be able properly calibrate the Epson 8350, you MUST set it to Extended. If you set it to Normal, Black levels below 16 are crushed.
> 
> 
> Plus, the Gamma on the Epsons are off. If you want to get a 2.2 Gamma across the board, you have to use the Customized menu and lower them considerably.
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me on this. His numbers look fine to me. My Epson 8350 has been calibrated to 2.2 Gamma with a flat grayscale using ChromaPure and a Display 3 PRO and his results are similar to mine.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372613
> 
> 
> Yes, I run mine on extended and my source is extended (madVR). I have brightness at +1 and contrast at -2.
> 
> 
> Forget the calibration software and sensor, you should be able to get greyscale in the ballpark with a suitable calibration dvd and not have to hugely alter brightness or contrast. If you do, you have a levels mismatch with your source.
> 
> 
> Then after you've solved that move on with the calibration package.
> 
> 
> This is why professionals use a reference signal source to drive the projector and calibrate it first, then its easy to see if there is a gross error later with the source connected.
> 
> 
> Trust me on this.



No....YOU trust ME on this....


You are wrong. His numbers are perfectly fine.


Also, the Epson is set to Expanded, not "extended", though I'm sure you knew that.


----------



## gazzagazza

Expanded / Extended, same thing. Its PC levels.


If I refer to Art Feierman's review on projector central, his calibration guy found to get the grayscale about right on preliminary calibration he needed contrast 0 and brightness +1 on both Cinema and Natural options. This is what I would expect with levels properly matched. He noted that gamma as per Epson's settings are a little low, and needed to be bumped up, not reduced. He suggested moving the slider to 2.4. In my setup I find 2.3 is better, but this is dependent on ambient light / room environment to a degree.


Anyway, my point is that if what you say was correct, projectorreviews.com would not have had such minimal adjustments in their calibration.


I rest my case.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21372631
> 
> 
> No....YOU trust ME on this....
> 
> 
> You are wrong. His numbers are perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> Also, the Epson is set to Expanded, not "extended", though I'm sure you knew that.


----------



## Mikes2cents

I tried those settings tonight on my 8350 on a white 1.1 gain 120" screen. 170 hours on the lamp. I too was a bit concerned about the brightness and contrast settings but gave it a whirl anyway. I found the colors very good but had to adjust the brightness and contrast a bit just to suit my eye. Basically I just went the other way about half on both because the result just looked too dark on my football game. I need to play with this some more but for overall first impressions I was impressed. What I was not impressed with was the white level which appeared to suffer. I should have busted out the AVS disk to check the white and black levels but I got tired of fooling around and shut the 8350 down for the night.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> If I refer to Art Feierman's review on projector central, his calibration guy found to get the grayscale about right on preliminary calibration



You can have a greyscale that is off and it still average 6500.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> he needed contrast 0 and brightness +1 on both Cinema and Natural options. This is what I would expect with levels properly matched.



He doesn't post anything further than that though, like his source or what he set the projectors video range to.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> He noted that gamma as per Epson's settings are a little low, and needed to be bumped up, not reduced. He suggested moving the slider to 2.4.



You're getting confused (or just don't know what you're talking about). The projector at default 2.2 measures around 2.0 if I remember correctly. If you set it to 2.4 it measures closer to 2.2. Now 2.4 is darker than 2.2 so if I was going to set it manually to 2.2 why would I move the sliders up (brighter) to get there?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> Anyway, my point is that if what you say was correct, projectorreviews.com would not have had such minimal adjustments in their calibration.



They wouldn't? I think they do and who knows why. There is very little info posted to understand why they chose those settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> I rest my case.



Good.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21372834
> 
> 
> I tried those settings tonight on my 8350 on a white 1.1 gain 120" screen. 170 hours on the lamp. I too was a bit concerned about the brightness and contrast settings but gave it a whirl anyway. I found the colors very good but had to adjust the brightness and contrast a bit just to suit my eye. Basically I just went the other way about half on both because the result just looked too dark on my football game. I need to play with this some more but for overall first impressions I was impressed. What I was not impressed with was the white level which appeared to suffer. I should have busted out the AVS disk to check the white and black levels but I got tired of fooling around and shut the 8350 down for the night.




These settings may not work for every-bodies projector or screen as there can/will be some variances there but just check the AVS disc to find where your clipping point is each way. I obviously set brightness to it's lowest point per the AVS disc but contrast can be a little more subjective. I ran the contrast up to the point of obvious clipping and then brought it down to where I was no longer clipping, then when you bring down 90 IRE gamma point it brings 100 with it, that's why all are negative and then the last one is positive. I had to bring 100 up to just below clipping again.


BTW what was your source (cable/sat)?


----------



## Droid6

I should probably post my PS3 video settings also.


----------



## gene9p

everyone's setup is going to be somewhat different,so the numbers may need to be tweaked for your satisfaction...


The numbers given are a great starting point and good deal of time and effort went into them and they are greatly appreciated..thank you


----------



## slybarman

I am running Droid's calibration settings on mine. We have the same projector, screen and DVD player. His numbers are for sure better than what I was able to do myself with the WOW DVD. Movies have much better depth of field to them and colors are much more natural. When I go back to my own settings, they look washed out. The only negative I see is that people's faces tend to look "over-exposed" and a bit unnatural. I am not sure how to better explain that. I think it is more a function of the screen though than anything else, because I see the same in my settings since going to the new screen. It is my first white screen, so maybe this is not unusual for a white screen.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21373655
> 
> 
> The numbers given are a great starting point and good deal of time and effort went into them and they are greatly appreciated..thank you



Thank you and you're welcome.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21373661
> 
> 
> The only negative I see is that people's faces tend to look "over-exposed" and a bit unnatural.



That's a problem with the Epson CMS, you have to calibrate it at 75% saturation because it's a little whacky. While you can get 25%, 50% and 75% spot on, 100% will unfortuneately be a little oversaturated. If you calibrate at 100% then you will be undersaturated at 75%, 50% and 25%. There is a post here somewhere that explains it, I'll find it and post it.


----------



## Droid6

Here's the post about the screwy Epson CMS...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710 


Here's my pertinent PS3 settings...


Video Settings

-RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Full

-Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's the post about the screwy Epson CMS...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
> 
> 
> Here's my pertinent PS3 settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Full
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On



Thank you. My previous grey DIY painted screen must have masked the issue. Based on what he says in that thread, Should I dial the saturation down a bit?


.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21372751
> 
> 
> Expanded / Extended, same thing. Its PC levels.
> 
> 
> If I refer to Art Feierman's review on projector central, his calibration guy found to get the grayscale about right on preliminary calibration he needed contrast 0 and brightness +1 on both Cinema and Natural options. This is what I would expect with levels properly matched. He noted that gamma as per Epson's settings are a little low, and needed to be bumped up, not reduced. He suggested moving the slider to 2.4. In my setup I find 2.3 is better, but this is dependent on ambient light / room environment to a degree.
> 
> 
> Anyway, my point is that if what you say was correct, projectorreviews.com would not have had such minimal adjustments in their calibration.
> 
> 
> I rest my case.



Sigh...this has been discussed ad nauseum in the past....


Epson's Expanded setting does NOT use PC Levels. If it did, then it would not be possible to see BTB and WTW data.


When a display uses PC Levels, absolute Black is 0, and absolute White is 255. Blacker than Black (BTB) and Whiter than White (WTW) information cannot be displayed, and is crushed.


When a display uses Video levels, the same absolute Black is 16, and absolute White is 235. BTB and WTW data cannot be displayed.


The fact is that when the Epson is set to Normal, information from 0-16 is crushed, and from 235-255 is not. If you use a calibration disk like the AVSHD disk or DVE Basics, WOW or anything else, you will never be able to see levels 0-16, making setting brightness properly difficult.


The only way to see this BTB information, and to see the flashing bars from 0-16 on the AVSHD disk is to set the Epson to Expanded. This way, all BTB information from 0-16 on the disk's brightness pattern is visible, which would be impossible if the Epson used PC Levels. Which it clearly does not.


The guy Art uses to calibrate his displays is unaware of this and makes the same mistake you are making and assumes that Expanded on the Epson means PC Levels when it demonstrably does not. This is nothing new here. This discussion always comes up now and then and someone always has to be convinced that to accurately calibrate the Epson, you have to set it to expanded.


(EDIT: I should add that if your Blu-ray player is crushing blacks or whites, you won't see BTB or WTW regardless of how the Epson is set, and the player needs to be adjusted so it can display this information.)


As far as Gamma goes, you do realize that in order to raise Gamma (say from 2.2 to 2.4) you have to lower the control on the Epson's Custom Gamma screen.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21374374
> 
> 
> Here's the post about the screwy Epson CMS...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
> 
> 
> Here's my pertinent PS3 settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Full
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On



Gazzagazza needs to check out this post as well. Notice that Stereomandan says to set the Epson to Expanded, and he is correct.


----------



## gazzagazza

I still disagree I'm afraid.


1/ Its not necessary to be able to see levels 0-16 to be able to correctly calibrate grayscale. If you are able to adjust brightness so that level 17 is just visible, you have black set correctly.


2/ Levels. If a display device is set to video levels, a source level presented at 16 will appear black. If a display device is set to PC (extended or expanded) levels, a source signal presented at 16 will appear as gray. In the second case a large amount of brightness adjustment in the negative direction will be required to make black look black.This is what those who are having success with the settings discussed are experiencing, they have a source delivering video levels, and the projector set to extended. If you are passing your source through a receiver it is my understanding that many will only pass video levels on hdmi.


3/ Below black. If a display device is set to PC levels and a source calibration signal presented that is at video levels (but with BTB 0-16 present) then all of this will be visible with black (16) gray and BTB 0 appearing as black. The blacks will not be crushed, just the opposite.


4/ If a display device is set to video levels, and a source calibration signal presented that is at PC levels (0-255) black (0) will be lost and all levels up to 16 will be crushed. The source spec means that BTB will not be present in the source.


A display device doesn't know what it is being presented with, it doesn't shift the levels based on whether it is set to extended or video levels, it just passes whatever is presented, the only difference being in one case 0 will result in black and the other 16 will. If there is any level remapping it is done at the source.


5/ Gamma. My mistake on that, I was thinking backwards.


My whole argument here is that the huge adjustments to brightness and contrast are red flags. They mean you are fixing something that is broken and needs to be addressed.


In my own case I have an HTPC running JRiver Media Centre with MadVR outputting PC levels. There is no BTB present in the signal, I need to set the 8350 to extended and I have level "17" (just above black) just visible with brightness just bumped up a notch. This supports my argument and is what would be expected.


----------



## gazzagazza

I think you'll find that your ps3 settings, which you mention output BTB and WTW, are video levels.


Stereomandan's article is a good one, and I can't see any anything there that contradicts what I am saying.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21374374
> 
> 
> Here's the post about the screwy Epson CMS...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
> 
> 
> Here's my pertinent PS3 settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Full
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21373548
> 
> 
> BTW what was your source (cable/sat)?



Cable. And I will say that football is not the best source to be checking these things out. At least not my setup and signals. Also, there is a possibility my Onkyo 809 AVR is crushing blacks despite being in the Direct mode. I would need to go back to your initial settings and play with the processor in the AVR until brightness and contrast looked good on the AVS disk, then make a determination from there. At least I think that would be the way to go since the 809 reportedly crushes blacks. Overall I was pretty impressed with the settings and was just too lazy to get out the disk and see what my setup needed. Thanks for providing the settings. I will get back to this soon so any advice how to approach it would be appreciated.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21374954
> 
> 
> Should I dial the saturation down a bit?



If you dial back saturation then you will under saturate from ~0-75%. Unless Epson released a firmware that corrects the issue then there is just a trade off to be made. Maybe I'll send them that link and see if they reply.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21375884
> 
> 
> I still disagree I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 1/ Its not necessary to be able to see levels 0-16 to be able to correctly calibrate grayscale. If you are able to adjust brightness so that level 17 is just visible, you have black set correctly.
> 
> 
> 2/ Levels. If a display device is set to video levels, a source level presented at 16 will appear black. If a display device is set to PC (extended or expanded) levels, a source signal presented at 16 will appear as gray. In the second case a large amount of brightness adjustment in the negative direction will be required to make black look black.This is what those who are having success with the settings discussed are experiencing, they have a source delivering video levels, and the projector set to extended. If you are passing your source through a receiver it is my understanding that many will only pass video levels on hdmi.
> 
> 
> 3/ Below black. If a display device is set to PC levels and a source calibration signal presented that is at video levels (but with BTB 0-16 present) then all of this will be visible with black (16) gray and BTB 0 appearing as black. The blacks will not be crushed, just the opposite.
> 
> 
> 4/ If a display device is set to video levels, and a source calibration signal presented that is at PC levels (0-255) black (0) will be lost and all levels up to 16 will be crushed. The source spec means that BTB will not be present in the source.
> 
> 
> A display device doesn't know what it is being presented with, it doesn't shift the levels based on whether it is set to extended or video levels, it just passes whatever is presented, the only difference being in one case 0 will result in black and the other 16 will. If there is any level remapping it is done at the source.
> 
> 
> 5/ Gamma. My mistake on that, I was thinking backwards.
> 
> 
> My whole argument here is that the huge adjustments to brightness and contrast are red flags. They mean you are fixing something that is broken and needs to be addressed.
> 
> 
> In my own case I have an HTPC running JRiver Media Centre with MadVR outputting PC levels. There is no BTB present in the signal, I need to set the 8350 to extended and I have level "17" (just above black) just visible with brightness just bumped up a notch. This supports my argument and is what would be expected.



So what your saying is you want to be right so bad that you suggest setting your source to PC levels so they kind of work. Got it.


----------



## kawie01

Droid6,


I dont know the technical stuff about your settings, but i do know that my screen looks way better than before. So do i care who is right and who is wrong?


----------



## kawie01

Thanks again for taking the time to post your settings. Very much appreciated.


----------



## lespurgeon

Ok, since we are on the topic of colorspace setup, I've had an 8350 for abotu 2 weeks now, and haven't had a chance to calibrate it. I'm driving it with an HTPC using a DVI to HDMI cable. I use the 8350 to watch DVDs and BluRays with PowerDVD 11. What video settings should I be using, since this is being driven from a PC? and is this clear-cut, or will there be a discussion about it?


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21376627
> 
> 
> Ok, since we are on the topic of colorspace setup, I've had an 8350 for abotu 2 weeks now, and haven't had a chance to calibrate it. I'm driving it with an HTPC using a DVI to HDMI cable. I use the 8350 to watch DVDs and BluRays with PowerDVD 11. What video settings should I be using, since this is being driven from a PC? and is this clear-cut, or will there be a discussion about it?



I've noticed PDVD crushes blacks. I haven't been able to figure out how to stop it from crushing blacks either. Even when setting the HTPC output to 16-235, I still get crushing.


Now I use Media player Classic Home Cinema. I rip the disc to hard drive using MakeMKV or DVDFab and play them directly from there.


----------



## domingos38

how does the 8350 compare to the jvc RS1?


----------



## gazzagazza

Oh dear. I don't understand why you can't address my points instead of stooping to silly throw away comments.


Here's a challenge. Beg, borrow, hire, whatever, an accupel test pattern generator. Test your projector against its PC and video levels outputs, and change the 8350's hdmi range settings. Take note of the gray scale and black level settings. You'll see what I'm getting at.


As it is now you're calibrating your source as much as you are your projector. This is calibration 101.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21376556
> 
> 
> So what your saying is you want to be right so bad that you suggest setting your source to PC levels so they kind of work. Got it.


----------



## gazzagazza

I'm very interested to know how you have your projectors brightness and contrast set. I suspect your setup is similar to mine as I use Makemkv to rip to mkv and playback from there. Are you using MadVR as your renderer? Are you using an AMD or Nvidia card?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/21376726
> 
> 
> I've noticed PDVD crushes blacks. I haven't been able to figure out how to stop it from crushing blacks either. Even when setting the HTPC output to 16-235, I still get crushing.
> 
> 
> Now I use Media player Classic Home Cinema. I rip the disc to hard drive using MakeMKV or DVDFab and play them directly from there.


----------



## gazzagazza

Before you fully commit to Power DVD download and try JRiver Media Center. There is a thread on it in the HTPC forum. It has a setting called "Red October" which without any fuss gets all of the configuration done for you without any messing around. The picture quality is the best you can get. You will probably get away with no more than setting your brightness and contrast and selecting the hdmi levels mode that works optimally for you. In my case I am using the calibration settings from the Projectorsreview site, and they work very well.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21376627
> 
> 
> Ok, since we are on the topic of colorspace setup, I've had an 8350 for abotu 2 weeks now, and haven't had a chance to calibrate it. I'm driving it with an HTPC using a DVI to HDMI cable. I use the 8350 to watch DVDs and BluRays with PowerDVD 11. What video settings should I be using, since this is being driven from a PC? and is this clear-cut, or will there be a discussion about it?


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21377148
> 
> 
> I'm very interested to know how you have your projectors brightness and contrast set. I suspect your setup is similar to mine as I use Makemkv to rip to mkv and playback from there. Are you using MadVR as your renderer? Are you using an AMD or Nvidia card?



I've used Madvr in the past. My HTPC runs a little buggy with it. So I just use MPC-HC now.

Using AMD at the present time. I have the video card set to output 16-235(limited RGB).


Settings for my projector wouldn't do you much good, since I'm not using an 8350.


I need to check out the Red October page, thanks for the info.


----------



## gazzagazza

Jrivers Interact Forum is a great helpful place too.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/21377226
> 
> 
> I need to check out the Red October page, thanks for the info.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21374311
> 
> 
> Thank you and you're welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a problem with the Epson CMS, you have to calibrate it at 75% saturation because it's a little whacky. While you can get 25%, 50% and 75% spot on, 100% will unfortuneately be a little oversaturated. If you calibrate at 100% then you will be undersaturated at 75%, 50% and 25%. There is a post here somewhere that explains it, I'll find it and post it.



I tried to capture some images of the problem I was trying to describe earlier. People's faces have a "solarized" effect to them. Is that what you were getting as well?


----------



## Mikes2cents

Those pics look like crap. I was going to comment on how much better my flesh tones were after the setting with just a few tweaks needed to be worked out. I see nothing like what you have pictured.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21377409
> 
> 
> I tried to capture some images of the problem I was trying to describe earlier. People's faces have a "solarized" effect to them. Is that what you were getting as well?



I'm guessing your contrast was set too high in the beginning and your gamma setting exaggerated the problem.


Try lowering your contrast and see if it goes away. If you use the AVSHD contrast pattern, set contrast so that up to 240 flashes and recalibrate.


This nothing to do with calibrating using 75% Saturation patterns. This is recommended because if you calibrate using 100% patterns colors at lower IREs become undersaturated on Epson projectors. What you're seeing is a Gamma problem where higher frequency information is being blown out and clipped.


----------



## slybarman

Ok - this is really weird. Based on Mike's response above, I figured something was very wrong, so I went into the menu and reset the factory defaults for the natural mode. I then reloaded Droid's settings that I had previously saved in a memory slot and viola - the solarized effect went away. Before and after photos below of the same scene:


BEFORE:










AFTER:


----------



## hartbe190

I am completley new to the projector game, and I am interested in getting the epson 8350 to satisfy my need for the movie theatre expericence. I will be using for gaming xbox, ps3 and movies with some sports viewing. I really want to pull the trigger on this but am afraid of a dull picture Like i see at the local sports bars. I currently have a 55 inch vizio 120 hz lcd will i notice a big diffence in clarity in brightness? the room will have no ambient light so that is no issue. Also I am looking into the favi 120 hd elctric screen with 1.3 gain wil this pair nicely. Also i have noticed that people alway wonder about motion blur I currently hate my 120hz becuase of the effect it has and i turn it off. I have no problem with 60hz tvs will this be similiar. I love a large screen but i love vibrant colors as well. Will this Fit my needs???


----------



## gazzagazza

In the "after" shot the white fur at the top above his forehead looks burnt out... contrast set too high. But then its a screen shot, and the camera could be doing this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21377595
> 
> 
> Ok - this is really weird. Based on Mike's response above, I figured something was very wrong, so I went into the menu and reset the factory defaults for the natural mode. I then reloaded Droid's settings that I had previously saved in a memory slot and viola - the solarized effect went away. Before and after photos below of the same scene:
> 
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER:


----------



## Barn01

I've looked through the menus and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Does the 8350 have a blue mode for calibrating or do you need the glasses if you want to run a flashing colour test?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Barn01* /forum/post/21377769
> 
> 
> I've looked through the menus and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Does the 8350 have a blue mode for calibrating or do you need the glasses if you want to run a flashing colour test?



No blue mode, you'd need the glasses or blue filter.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21377995
> 
> 
> No blue mode, you'd need the glasses or blue filter.



And from what I have read those are only marginal at best right? I mean better than nothing but just so. At least the blue screen mode lets you adjust to the eye and what you see. The filter may or may not perform as well.


----------



## slybarman

If using the Disney WOW disc, does anyone know what star in the contrast calibration equates to 245?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21377104
> 
> 
> Oh dear. I don't understand why you can't address my points instead of stooping to silly throw away comments.



Because you wrote 5 paragraphs that could be summed up with: you prefer a half assed calibration because the brightness and contrast settings closer match your source. You came out guns-a-blazing and then slowly backtracked.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21377104
> 
> 
> Here's a challenge. Beg, borrow, hire, whatever, an accupel test pattern generator. Test your projector against its PC and video levels outputs, and change the 8350's hdmi range settings.



No.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21377104
> 
> 
> As it is now you're calibrating your source as much as you are your projector.



No, I'm not. My sources pass blacker than black and whiter than white (as most CE devices should) and I calibrated accordingly. You choose to run PC levels for whatever reason and are suggesting everyone else should too. It makes no sense. Most people can't force their STB to run PC levels if they wanted to.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21377104
> 
> 
> This is calibration 101.



Haha, you got me, I don't know what the hell I'm doing. Guys this has all been a joke. All those numbers I posted were the result of dart throws.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21378598
> 
> 
> If using the Disney WOW disc, does anyone know what star in the contrast calibration equates to 245?



You should check out the AVS calibration disc, it's a free download in the calibration section.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21378962
> 
> 
> You should check out the AVS calibration disc, it's a free download in the calibration section.



OK - I will take a look.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21374374
> 
> 
> Here's the post about the screwy Epson CMS...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710
> 
> 
> Here's my pertinent PS3 settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Full
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On



The AVS HD thread you pointed me to and the PS3 master thread both say RGB should be set to 'limited" versus 'full'. How does this affect your calibration - if at all?


----------



## hartbe190

what is convergence I previously read people complaining about it and then posted pictures in which i couldnt tell what was wrong? Is this a big issue and Should I take the plunge on this projector?


----------



## Droid6

.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21379662
> 
> 
> The AVS HD thread you pointed me to and the PS3 master thread both say RGB should be set to 'limited" versus 'full'. How does this affect your calibration - if at all?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21380271
> 
> 
> If you set it to limited it will not pass BTB.



RGB Full vs Limited has no effect on whether BTB is output. Movies output in YUV (by default) and Super-White is the setting that affects BTB (set Super-White ON to pass BTB).


If you force movies to output in RGB you won't see BTB whether RGB is set to Full or Limited (so don't use RGB for movies). And if you set RGB to Full you'll have different black levels for games vs movies, so RGB Limited is the best setting.


----------



## ptsaras

As of today I'm a new Epson 8350 owner. Had a Benq PE7700 that went out on me after a few years of use. Then tried the Benq W1200. Couldn't deal with the input lag. Also tried the W6000 but was unhappy with the PQ(think my particular model was bad). Anyway after that long road and after talking to numerous friends who spoke highly of the 8350 that's what I just hooked up today.


I haven't done any picture fine tuning yet but happy to see that the factory settings are much closer to normal viewing settings than the W6000 which was unwatchable. Anyway hope to get it tuned a bit tonight for my 133" screen and have my theater room up and running and happy once again!


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/21380542
> 
> 
> RGB Full vs Limited has no effect on whether BTB is output. Movies output in YUV (by default) and Super-White is the setting that affects BTB (set Super-White ON to pass BTB).
> 
> 
> If you force movies to output in RGB you won't see BTB whether RGB is set to Full or Limited (so don't use RGB for movies). And if you set RGB to Full you'll have different black levels for games vs movies, so RGB Limited is the best setting.



Yeah, my bad, I was thinking of super white when I replied. If you have HDMI Video range set to Expanded, then full is the correct setting and If you have it set to Normal then Limited is fine.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21380604
> 
> 
> Yeah, my bad, I was thinking of super white when I replied. If you have HDMI Video range set to Expanded, then full is the correct setting and If you have it set to Normal then Limited is fine.



All of that went over my head, but I will leave it as it is.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21380620
> 
> 
> All of that went over my head, but I will leave it as it is.



Limited on the PS3 + Signal, Advanced, HDMI Video Range, Normal on the Epson. I guess I should also note that on my STB input I use Normal also. I forgot I have my STB and PS3 input set differently so I have to change my post to avoid confusion.


----------



## Droid6

Natural

Brightness -11

Contrast 8

Color Saturation 0

Tint -2

Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0

Abs. Color Temp. 6500K

Skin Tone 0


Advanced...


Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5


RGB

Offset R 6

Offset G 0

Offset B 23

Gain R -2

Gain G 0

Gain B -25


RGBCMY

R 0 -13 -7

G -37 -49 48

B -7 10 -6

C 0 -41 31

M -16 -9 -16

Y -3 -9 8


Power Consumption ECO

Auto Iris Off or Normal


Signal [Advanced]

Noise Reduction Off

EPSON Super White Off

Overscan Off

HDMI Video Range Expanded


PS3 Settings...


Video Settings

-RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Limited

-Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On


----------



## gazzagazza

Don't worry about the convergence issue. There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. Many people have returned multiple times projectors that are in spec, and then they complain when they are replaced by "refurb" projectors that are the same or similar. Epson are to be commended for being so accommodating on this. 2-3 pixels misconvergence in an LCD is normal and within spec, and you won't see any effect when using the projector. Right now the 8350 seems to me to be the very best value for money out there, and the results it delivers are great!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hartbe190* /forum/post/21379685
> 
> 
> what is convergence I previously read people complaining about it and then posted pictures in which i couldnt tell what was wrong? Is this a big issue and Should I take the plunge on this projector?


----------



## gazzagazza

Ah, someone who is talking some sense...


Can I make a point regarding BTB? Being able to see it with brightness cranked up has absolutely nothing to do with the ability to calibrate. When setting brightness all that is needed is to be able to adjust brightness such that level 17, just above black, is just visible. You can reduce brightness so that it disappears, and raise it again so that it just shows. With that you're done. Also BTB does not carry any video information at all. On the other hand WTW is important... The 8350s "normal" mode complies with this requirement.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99* /forum/post/21380542
> 
> 
> RGB Full vs Limited has no effect on whether BTB is output. Movies output in YUV (by default) and Super-White is the setting that affects BTB (set Super-White ON to pass BTB).
> 
> 
> If you force movies to output in RGB you won't see BTB whether RGB is set to Full or Limited (so don't use RGB for movies). And if you set RGB to Full you'll have different black levels for games vs movies, so RGB Limited is the best setting.


----------



## gazzagazza

Droid6 I'm not sure what your problem is, you seem to be an angry man. Please treat this as a discussion forum. If you disagree with me, explain why, and please don't reinterpret my posts with your twist added. I didn't anywhere say what you state below, or in your other responses to my post, and I didn't backtrack at all. I acknowledged I had been wrong on the gamma comment I made, and that is a normal thing to do when in a discussion. Being able to be wrong is part of learning.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21378956
> 
> 
> Because you wrote 5 paragraphs that could be summed up with: you prefer a half assed calibration because the brightness and contrast settings closer match your source. You came out guns-a-blazing and then slowly backtracked.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21380802
> 
> 
> Being able to be wrong is part of learning.



Where was I wrong again?


----------



## hartbe190

Before I buy this i was wondering if any of you expect a price drop anytime soon? I see it is on amazon for usually sub 1,100. Also if anyone would recommend going through best buy or amazon?


----------



## ptsaras

I just picked it up from Amazon. I would highly suggest then because of their service/liberal return policies. If your a prime member you get free second day and $3.99 next day shipping! If you have any issues or are dissatisfied you can ship it back free. Not to mention its tax free.


----------



## hartbe190

Since when does amazon not charge sales tax. I live in ny if that makes any difference. Also I recently saw a demo unit at best buy and it look horrible but the sales guy seemed to no nothing while acting as if he knew everything. Does anyone in ny know of good stores to see a demo unit?


----------



## ptsaras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hartbe190* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since when does amazon not charge sales tax. I live in ny if that makes any difference. Also I recently saw a demo unit at best buy and it look horrible but the sales guy seemed to no nothing while acting as if he knew everything. Does anyone in ny know of good stores to see a demo unit?



Maybe it's a state to state thing. I'm in Oklahoma and anything purchased from the internet that is from out of state is tax free.


I was unable to find a place to demo it. But I will say in my light controlled room with good sources it looks great.


----------



## hartbe190

Thanks for you input, all the screenshots look great, now I just need to convince the wife. LOL. and does amazon refund you money if the price drops?


----------



## ptsaras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hartbe190* /forum/post/21381552
> 
> 
> Thanks for you input, all the screenshots look great, now I just need to convince the wife. LOL. and does amazon refund you money if the price drops?



I believe they will refund you. Also since it's the holiday season you have one month from Dec 31st to make your return so you have 40 days to try the unit. Best Buy's return policy is 14days and if they follow their policy to a T then you have to pay a restocking fee on projectors. Although they will over look that sometimes. I would check in advance though.


----------



## Caveat Emptor

I ordered the 8350 from Amazon earlier tonight, and according to the confirmation email, the delivery estimate is the 23rd.


Amazon charges tax when purchased from Kansas, Kentucky, New York, North Dakota and Washington. Soon, I'm afraid, more states will be added as pressure mounts from politicians and interest groups.


----------



## slybarman

I went back and set the HDMI range to normal and then calibrated with the AVCHD patterns so that 17+was flashing and 234+ was flashing. This changed my brightness and contrast numbers quite a bit. The fur on the top of the nard dog's hat is still kind of over-exposed, but these are the right settings according to the pattern. It looks like he is standing right under a light, so maybe that is just how it was filmed?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382210
> 
> 
> I went back and set the HDMI range to normal and then calibrated with the AVCHD patterns so that 17+was flashing and 234+ was flashing. This changed my brightness and contrast numbers quite a bit. The fur on the top of the nard dog's hat is still kind of over-exposed, but these are the right settings according to the pattern. It looks like he is standing right under a light, so maybe that is just how it was filmed?



You want 17 to be barely visible.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21382324
> 
> 
> You want 17 to be barely visible.



OK. I will re-run it and make sure.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382334
> 
> 
> OK. I will re-run it and make sure.



You are pretty close regardless and probably won't see a huge diff.


----------



## slybarman

I re-ran it and that brought the brightness to 0 and the contrast to -1. All told a pretty far way from where it all started yesterday.


----------



## gazzagazza

You're probably right. How about turning on Epson Super White and rechecking the brightness and contrast then looking at that fur again. Not sure what it will do for your overall picture quality but it would be an interesting experiment.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went back and set the HDMI range to normal and then calibrated with the AVCHD patterns so that 17+was flashing and 234+ was flashing. This changed my brightness and contrast numbers quite a bit. The fur on the top of the nard dog's hat is still kind of over-exposed, but these are the right settings according to the pattern. It looks like he is standing right under a light, so maybe that is just how it was filmed?


----------



## slybarman

Super White is on already. I will try to take one final picture of the same scene at the numbers I just ended up at.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382395
> 
> 
> I re-ran it and that brought the brightness to 0 and the contrast to -1. All told a pretty far way from where it all started yesterday.



Do you have Epson super white on?


Oops, never mind somebody already asked.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382447
> 
> 
> Super White is on already. I will try to take one final picture of the same scene at the numbers I just ended up at.



I just threw up the brightness and contrast patterns and turned Epson super white on and I got numbers closer to what you're getting. Try turning Epson super white off and the numbers I posted and check them.


----------



## slybarman

OK - I thought when you originally posted the numbers in the other thread, you had said Superwhite was ON.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382520
> 
> 
> OK - I thought when you originally posted the numbers in the other thread, you had said Superwhite was ON.



On, on the PS3 and off on the projector.


----------



## gazzagazza

I'm pretty sure that when you turn Epson Super white on, you are automatically in normal mode, not expanded. When you're just in normal mode, and set brightness and contrast you'll get close to what has just been posted depending on the installation, when you turn on Super White, theoretically you'll assist the display of highlights, but the black level won't shift.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21382498
> 
> 
> I just threw up the brightness and contrast patterns and turned Epson super white on and I got numbers closer to what you're getting. Try turning Epson super white off and the numbers I posted and check them.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21382783
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that when you turn Epson Super white on, you are automatically in normal mode, not expanded. When you're just in normal mode, and set brightness and contrast you'll get close to what has just been posted depending on the installation, when you turn on Super White, theoretically you'll assist the display of highlights, but the black level won't shift.



All I can tell that it does is shift the point of clipping.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21382908
> 
> 
> All I can tell that it does is shift the point of clipping.



Correct. I can't think of any good reason to turn Super White on.


----------



## slybarman

I have to apologize for being a doofus again. Epson Superwhite was in-fact off. So, brightness 0 and contrast -1 are my numbers with Epson superwhite off and superwhite (or extended white - whatever it is called) on the PS3 switched on. You were correct that you had said "off" in the intial post and I must have followed that part correctly at the time. Here is a random shot from Blu-ray at the current settings.


----------



## gazzagazza

That looks good. I will apply the whole set to my projector when I get time in the next week and see how it compares to what I'm currently using.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21382955
> 
> 
> I have to apologize for being a doofus again. Epson Superwhite was in-fact off. So, brightness 0 and contrast -1 are my numbers with Epson superwhite off and superwhite (or extended white - whatever it is called) on the PS3 switched on. You were correct that you had said "off" in the intial post and I must have followed that part correctly at the time. Here is a random shot from Blu-ray at the current settings.


----------



## yonip




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hartbe190* /forum/post/21381261
> 
> 
> Before I buy this i was wondering if any of you expect a price drop anytime soon? I see it is on amazon for usually sub 1,100. Also if anyone would recommend going through best buy or amazon?



If Fry's Electronics was able to sell it for $799 during black friday, then it could go down again. When? That we don't know.


----------



## hartbe190

if it could drop to sub 950 i would buy instantly. And I would just be greedy to want to find it at 799


----------



## d3mon187

Ok, screw it. I'm forgoing 3d and getting the 8350 for now.


Can you guys check my measurements for me and verify this will work with vertical lens shift at 0. I saw someone say that lens zoom also affected the amount of horizontal shift, so hopefully my plan will still work? I can mount the projector on a higher or lower table to put the vertical shift at 0, but where does the projectors bottom edge fall with the center of the lens? Dead center, or a percentage above or below?


I'm nerdy to the nth power, so I drew up a sketch to show my plan and measurements.
http://curbstuff.com/mypics/screenpl...iondiagram.jpg 


Also, how well do you think the 8350's light output will fare against the ambient lighting in this room with a 1.3 gain screen?
http://curbstuff.com/mypics/screenplan/DSC_0001.JPG


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *d3mon187* /forum/post/21387169
> 
> 
> Ok, screw it. I'm forgoing 3d and getting the 8350 for now.



Hey, you're not alone. I read about everything I could about the HD33 and 3010. I'm coming to the conclusion that it's not worth giving up what the 8350 seems to do really well. And what it does really well is project the 2D stuff I'm going to watch about 95 plus% of the time.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *d3mon187* /forum/post/21387169
> 
> 
> Ok, screw it. I'm forgoing 3d and getting the 8350 for now.
> 
> 
> Can you guys check my measurements for me and verify this will work with vertical lens shift at 0. I saw someone say that lens zoom also affected the amount of horizontal shift, so hopefully my plan will still work? I can mount the projector on a higher or lower table to put the vertical shift at 0, but where does the projectors bottom edge fall with the center of the lens? Dead center, or a percentage above or below?
> 
> 
> I'm nerdy to the nth power, so I drew up a sketch to show my plan and measurements.
> http://curbstuff.com/mypics/screenpl...iondiagram.jpg
> 
> 
> Also, how well do you think the 8350's light output will fare against the ambient lighting in this room with a 1.3 gain screen?
> http://curbstuff.com/mypics/screenplan/DSC_0001.JPG



Why can't you place the PJ at the center of the back wall?


----------



## d3mon187




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21387238
> 
> 
> Why can't you place the PJ at the center of the back wall?



Couch is all the way against the back wall, and with the fireplace I can't move it any farther forward. Putting the projector to the side where the lamp is now would put it out of the way. I have a vaulted ceiling, and after putting in the ceiling fan, I know it'd be a nightmare to ceiling mount it. Placing it on a wall mount is an option, but it would look really bad and the back wall has so much stuff in it that I'm not even sure I could get the wire through.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *d3mon187* /forum/post/21387476
> 
> 
> Couch is all the way against the back wall, and with the fireplace I can't move it any farther forward. Putting the projector to the side where the lamp is now would put it out of the way. I have a vaulted ceiling, and after putting in the ceiling fan, I know it'd be a nightmare to ceiling mount it. Placing it on a wall mount is an option, but it would look really bad and the back wall has so much stuff in it that I'm not even sure I could get the wire through.



The 8350 would work from the position in your diagram.


----------



## Cowracer

UPS man delivered my 8350 today. (no flipping me the bird, no throwing the box







) I unboxed it and promised myself not to get carried away with trying it out before everything is ready. Well, that didnt last long.


I wanted to check my placement location so I put it on a shelf under where I wanted, and kicked on the test pattern. Just a few minutes fiddling got the pattern dialed in and focused. Now i was really itching to see what it would do. so I grab my laptop and a HDMI cable, pop in Star Wars A New Hope, and all I can say is WHOA BABY! Turned off auto iris, set color mode to cinema, and was blown away with the picture. I wound up watching the entire Death Star attack scene twice.


My only complaint was it seemed the blues were unnaturally bright. I might need to adjust it a bit more, but it really was impressive. Here is a pic of the top menu, with my theater lights up around 75%. (any image quality issues is the result of my cell phone camera, not of the projector)











I think I'm gonna like it!


Tim


----------



## batmanwcm

I've finally set mine up since I bought it from the Amazon lighting deal. It's my first projector and I must say, I'm pretty impressed. It's projected on a Favi 100" motorized screen and thus far, I'm happy.


It also took me a while deciding on the ceiling mount to go with. I went to B&H and compared both the Chief RPAU and the Peerless PRG-UNV and was surprised at the quality of the Peerless. The Peerless mount was very sturdy and had 2 precision knobs for adjustment and I just loved that. I just mounted it to my ceiling and I'm pretty satisfied with it.


----------



## slybarman

Thanks to Droid6 and others who helped with my calibration. We watched a movie last night and things are really dialed pretty well now. Everything looked very good - especially with the masking in place for 2:35. Colors really looked right on and it had the presence of being at the cinema. One thing I noticed was that the picture really seems to get even better as the bulb warms up some. I think I will make a point of turning the system on 15-20 minutes before was plan to start a movie. Usually we just sit down, fire it up and start watching immediately.


----------



## carp

Here are updated pics of my room as of last weekend with the Epson 8350. Screen is 124" diagonal with masking panels in (16:9) and 158" with masking panels out (2:35:1).


Before:











After:


Masking panels out











Masking panels in























Here is a shot showing what the masking panels look like. These are great, love how it turned out.


----------



## slybarman

Is the screen DIY? Painted? The masking panels are very nice to have.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21388878
> 
> 
> Is the screen DIY? Painted? The masking panels are very nice to have.



Here's a thread about how it was done over in DIY Screens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21384902


----------



## gazzagazza

For anyone thinking of painting a screen be sure to have a look at the diy screen forum at Home Theater Shack. The formulas are much more rigorously developed over there.


----------



## vvanders

Big kudos to Epson's support. Developed a couple dust bits leading to blue circle on bottom left of screen and green one in center.


Just got off the phone with tech support and they're overnighting me one for free w/ a box to return my existing one.


I was expecting having to send it in myself with a multi-week wait without my projector.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vvanders* /forum/post/21391019
> 
> 
> Big kudos to Epson's support. Developed a couple dust bits leading to blue circle on bottom left of screen and green one in center.
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with tech support and they're overnighting me one for free w/ a box to return my existing one.
> 
> 
> I was expecting having to send it in myself with a multi-week wait without my projector.



thats why i am buying epson


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vvanders* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Big kudos to Epson's support. Developed a couple dust bits leading to blue circle on bottom left of screen and green one in center.
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with tech support and they're overnighting me one for free w/ a box to return my existing one.
> 
> 
> I was expecting having to send it in myself with a multi-week wait without my projector.



In my experience they will send you 2 or 3 others will problems even worse than what you sent them, but eventually they will make it right.


----------



## hartbe190

I broke down and just got mine, popped in toy story three blu ray and hung a sheet in my basement cause my screen hasnt come in yet and I was blown away. I looks great on just a white walmart bed sheet make me even more excited to calibrate and to see it with my screen. Some how i was talked into the bestbuy protection plan any thoughts if i should return the protection plan? I am leaning towards doing that becuase of all the positive reports about epsons cust service.


----------



## slybarman

If Best Buy will swap out for a new one under their plan, then I would stay wit that. Epson sends refurbs and does zero QC on. Them before sending them - at least best I can tell.


----------



## bassage

Hey carp, I am thinking of using an 8700ub on a 2.35:1 screen about the same size as yours, but I keep reading from other people that it just isn't bright enough to handle such a giant screen, but you seem to be doing just fine with an 8350. What's the secret, do I need a high gain screen to kick up the brightness?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21391388
> 
> 
> Hey carp, I am thinking of using an 8700ub on a 2.35:1 screen about the same size as yours, but I keep reading from other people that it just isn't bright enough to handle such a giant screen, but you seem to be doing just fine with an 8350. What's the secret, do I need a high gain screen to kick up the brightness?



I've read that the 8350 is brighter than the 8700 but doesn't have the blacks that the 8700 does. For a screen the size of mine you may want to look at the 8350 unless I'm wrong about the brightness thing.


My screen has some gain, but I'm having second thoughts about it. I miss the crystal clear picture I got on the wall, now there is a "film" and it seems like the image is trapped under it.


If all gain screens have this issue, I think I prefer no gain.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21391838
> 
> 
> I've read that the 8350 is brighter than the 8700 but doesn't have the blacks that the 8700 does. For a screen the size of mine you may want to look at the 8350 unless I'm wrong about the brightness thing.
> 
> 
> My screen has some gain, but I'm having second thoughts about it. I miss the crystal clear picture I got on the wall, now there is a "film" and it seems like the image is trapped under it.
> 
> 
> If all gain screens have this issue, I think I prefer no gain.



Da-lite High Power screens do not have any such issues, have tons of gain, and are awesome.


----------



## gazzagazza

Unless you really need it (ie you do a lot of watching with high ambient light) you are much better off with a screen that has a gain of 1 or less. Screens with gains higher than 1 do that at the expense of viewing angle, and the higher the gain the more likely you will get hot spotting on axis. This is especially so with home brew painted screens. In the other thread you linked the finished screen in one shot looks to have quite a gloss finish. That, and any reflective material used in the mix might be what is producing the "film" effect you mention.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21391838
> 
> 
> I've read that the 8350 is brighter than the 8700 but doesn't have the blacks that the 8700 does. For a screen the size of mine you may want to look at the 8350 unless I'm wrong about the brightness thing.
> 
> 
> My screen has some gain, but I'm having second thoughts about it. I miss the crystal clear picture I got on the wall, now there is a "film" and it seems like the image is trapped under it.
> 
> 
> If all gain screens have this issue, I think I prefer no gain.


----------



## igreg

New to this forum and to projectors, but was just invited over to see a friend's new system featuring the ceiling mounted Epson 8350 and a 120" screen. Watched "Limitless" in HD from Netflix and was absolutely blown away from the quality. Just incredible. I have a 50" Panasonic plasma and before arriving I didn't think the picture quality blown up that big, especially for this price, was going to be all that great. I was wrong on that assumption! Was superior by a good margin over my plasma (although the sheer size may account for a part of the assessment. My Panasonic is from 2004; is this projector actually have a better picture than a current plasma?). Watched the film from about 10-15 feet and amazed at the level of detail and quality of the picture. Now if I only had room in my house! What are the screen sizes you can use with this projector? Thanks.


P.S. And this was on Netflix! I would think a Blu-Ray of the film would have even been better? (if that is possible!)


----------



## bri1270




> Quote:
> In my experience they will send you 2 or 3 others will problems even worse than what you sent them, but eventually they will make it right.



Experiences very. I had to exchange my 8100 after almost a year and the first unit I got was fantastic...better than the original actually.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *igreg* /forum/post/21392240
> 
> 
> New to this forum and to projectors, but was just invited over to see a friend's new system featuring the ceiling mounted Epson 8350 and a 120" screen. Watched "Limitless" in HD from Netflix and was absolutely blown away from the quality. Just incredible. I have a 50" Panasonic plasma and before arriving I didn't think the picture quality blown up that big, especially for this price, was going to be all that great. I was wrong on that assumption! Was superior by a good margin over my plasma (although the sheer size may account for a part of the assessment. My Panasonic is from 2004; is this projector actually have a better picture than a current plasma?). Watched the film from about 10-15 feet and amazed at the level of detail and quality of the picture. Now if I only had room in my house! What are the screen sizes you can use with this projector? Thanks.
> 
> 
> P.S. And this was on Netflix! I would think a Blu-Ray of the film would have even been better? (if that is possible!)



screen sizes depend on your throw distance,seating distance etc etc

most people go with 120" ,but u can go as big as 200"


----------



## greighn

I have about a 1000 hours on my Epson and I've started noticing a rumbling noise coming from the fan. The rumbling increases a little when the fan switches to high speed mode. Its definitely a louder fan noise than when I first got the projector.


However, after the projector has been on for some time, maybe a half hour or so, the fan quiets down to its normal noise level regardless of fan speed.


Is this possibly a bearing going bad in the fan? Seems odd though that it would go away after running for a while.


Has anyone experienced this problem or know what I can do, if anything, to fix it? I'm hesitant to send the unit in since everything else about the projector is perfect.


Thanks.


-Gary.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21392186
> 
> 
> Unless you really need it (ie you do a lot of watching with high ambient light) you are much better off with a screen that has a gain of 1 or less. Screens with gains higher than 1 do that at the expense of viewing angle, and the higher the gain the more likely you will get hot spotting on axis. This is especially so with home brew painted screens. In the other thread you linked the finished screen in one shot looks to have quite a gloss finish. That, and any reflective material used in the mix might be what is producing the "film" effect you mention.



The Da-lite High Power/High Contrast High Power would work great in his room. It has 2.4 gain, does NOT hotspot, and viewing angle would not be an issue.


----------



## The Sandman

Just set up a High Power screen why my 8350 and it looks amazing. Mine is shelf mounted about 4.5 feet off the ground so its ideal for the high power also my previous screen was a bed sheet so my expectations are not too high. The image is very bright feels like a big Plasma.


----------



## Fast351




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21393518
> 
> 
> The Da-lite High Power/High Contrast High Power would work great in his room. It has 2.4 gain, does NOT hotspot, and viewing angle would not be an issue.



I have the DaLite "Video Spectra" with 1.5 gain, and it does a respectable job in anything but direct sunlight. There is a tiny little bit of flare or hotspotting if it's absolutely black, but other than that it's a fantastic picture. Angle isn't a problem here. You can see the picture clear as day from almost a perpendicular angle to the screen.


Subbed for a deal on an 8350 to replace my Optoma HD72....


----------



## Sytadel

Guys, I'm getting significant burn in after browsing the internet for a few hours. Notably the taskbar and address bar in my browser, I can now see them burnt in whilst watching movies etc. I also had a night of 4:3 and the left and right black bars are burnt in.


I had absolutely no idea a project this new would suffer from burn in issues. Are there any remedies, how do you guys consistently avoid this?


Finally, are there any 1080p projectors on the market currently with no burn in issues at all?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sytadel* /forum/post/21397953
> 
> 
> Guys, I'm getting significant burn in after browsing the internet for a few hours. Notably the taskbar and address bar in my browser, I can now see them burnt in whilst watching movies etc. I also had a night of 4:3 and the left and right black bars are burnt in.
> 
> 
> I had absolutely no idea a project this new would suffer from burn in issues. Are there any remedies, how do you guys consistently avoid this?
> 
> 
> Finally, are there any 1080p projectors on the market currently with no burn in issues at all?



I have never had this issue happen on any LCD projector I've owned in the last 8 years. I would contact Epson.


----------



## SonyCrusader

I think I saw somewhere in Epson documentation (maybe the manual...) that there may be image retention but it's temporary and reversible.


I sure hope so!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sytadel* /forum/post/21397953
> 
> 
> I had absolutely no idea a project this new would suffer from burn in issues. Are there any remedies, how do you guys consistently avoid this?



IIRC, on an LCD you can't have Burn-In (like a plasma or CRT). However, you can get temporary Image Retention.


I have a 24" Dell LCD (IPS panel based). When it was new, the Calendar gadget gave it IR. I just ran the built in "rotating color slides" (they call it LCD Conditioning) ... and it fixed/erased it.


Take a cue from the plasma guys. They have a set of rotating color slides you can download. My plasma has a built-in IR-Eraser ... just a thick white bar that moves down the screen over a black background. Sounds like you are running a HTPC, so it would be easy to run something like this.


Thanks for the "heads up" on this though. Since we have had plasmas for over 5 years now, we have trained ourselves to zoom 4:3 content and turn the screen power off if paused for long periods. Thankfully, now-days, we mostly watch digital 16:9 TV or movies with minimal bars.


----------



## ckg1999

All,


Got an 8350 and hung it in place of my Home Cinema 1080. Great picture!


However, as you can see in my attached image, this is what the image looks like. I cant figure out the skew... My HC1080 did not have it.


Is my screen cut wrong? (Elite Screen motor - 106").


Thanks all.


----------



## slybarman

The projector is not squared to the wall. It is probably cocked a bit to the right.


----------



## ckg1999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21402995
> 
> 
> The projector is not squared to the wall. It is probably cocked a bit to the right.



Whats the best way to fix? I tried everything on the mount that I could think of...


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckg1999* /forum/post/21403019
> 
> 
> Whats the best way to fix? I tried everything on the mount that I could think of...



It looks like you lined up the top of the image and are now trying to alleviate horizontal keystone. If you're standing behind your projector you need to drop the left side a little and then remove the horizontal keystone.


----------



## ckg1999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21403378
> 
> 
> It looks like you lined up the top of the image and are now trying to alleviate horizontal keystone. If you're standing behind your projector you need to drop the left side a little and then remove the horizontal keystone.



This model doesn't have a horizontal keystone (that I know of...)


----------



## slybarman

You need to swivel the projector horizontally to the left (if standing behind it) until the image squares up and then use the lens shift to bring the image back to the right. The projector needs to be squared up to the screen on all axis and then lens shift is used to center the image on the screen.


----------



## vinha916

What do you guys recommend for 120" motorized screen


i am thinking about this one http://www.projectorpeople.com/scree...roductID=11140


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21404054
> 
> 
> What do you guys recommend for 120" motorized screen
> 
> 
> i am thinking about this one http://www.projectorpeople.com/scree...roductID=11140



I'm biased because it's the screen that I own, and the only one I've owned at that. But for the same amount of money, you can get an Elite Cinetention2 tab tensioned screen. Tab tensioned screens are more resistant to "waves" or creases in the screen.


----------



## vinha916

 http://www.projectorpeople.com/scree...roductID=22914 


is this the one? i am looking for high contrast matte white or grey


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21404560
> 
> http://www.projectorpeople.com/scree...roductID=22914
> 
> 
> is this the one? i am looking for high contrast matte white or grey



That's the one! I have the grey screen and am very happy with the product overall.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckg1999* /forum/post/21403403
> 
> 
> This model doesn't have a horizontal keystone (that I know of...)



I know, you correct for horizontal keystone by rotating the projector.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21404749
> 
> 
> I know, you correct for horizontal keystone by rotating the projector.



The best way to put it is that you have to make sure the PJ is projecting perfectly perpendicular to the opposing wall and level with the floor, regardless of where the screen is located, and then you use Lens Shift to place the image where the screen is located.


Keystoning involves manipulating the image using controls in the projector to reshape the image before it leaves the PJ so that it forms a proper rectangle on the screen.


It's an entirely different process indeed, since keystoning by its very nature will cause a distortion in the actual image (as little as that might be), whereas Len Shift causes no distortions in the actual image at all. Huge difference.


----------



## Droid6

Keystone is an effect of a misaligned projector. Keystone correction can be made with proper alignment or with a setting in the projectors menu.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21405992
> 
> 
> Keystone is an effect of a misaligned projector. Keystone correction can be made with proper alignment or with a setting in the projectors menu.



Correct.


Lens Shift does not, however, have anything to do with keystoning.


----------



## ckg1999

I have fixed the issue at the bottom of the projector, but cant seem to get it to be all square at the top. My mount is square with the screen, and hangs about a foot below my 9' ceiling.


Is there a good "projector mount how to" available that some of you use?


Thanks for the help!


----------



## slybarman

For starters put a small level on top of the projector and check for level front-to-back and then side-to-side. Check your screen for level as well.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckg1999* /forum/post/21407170
> 
> 
> I have fixed the issue at the bottom of the projector, but cant seem to get it to be all square at the top. *My mount is square with the screen*, and hangs about a foot below my 9' ceiling.
> 
> 
> Is there a good "projector mount how to" available that some of you use?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!



If the PJ is "square" then I can't imagine how the top and bottom would have different character, or slopes! You should have NO Keystone value, set it to 0 or none.*** This is a _fundamental_ optics problem and while keystone is an _electronic_ "fix" or "adjustment" to the data being processed to the LCD panels, lens shift is a _mechanical_ function that moves lenses inside the optical path to effect a bending, or 'shift' of the light path.


So you're one foot below your ceiling - how high is your screen? What diagonal size? How "centered" is the PJ within the screen? There's only so much combined lens-shift adjustment available and you can NOT "fix" any one side independent of its opposite - they work in pairs!


The Epson 8350 Owners Manual says this on page 62:



> Quote:
> The picture isn’t rectangular.
> 
> ■ If the image looks like or , the projector has been placed off to one side of the
> 
> screen and angled toward it. Face the projector straight ahead (instead of at the center of
> 
> the screen), then use the horizontal lens shift dial to center the image (see page 24).
> 
> ■ If the image looks like or , make sure the projector is not tilted up or down.


**** I read every page of the Epson 8350's manual and do NOT find that it even HAS a keystone adjustment! Can anyone confirm this?*


My point is that in the absence of _any_ keystone adjustment (e.g. Epson 8350 has none), this guys issue is purely _physical_! For the bottom to be level and not the top he has the PJ sloped (not level) and *not* "square" to the wall as he claims!
_

Here's my guide_: Using your eyes as your guide, physically "level" the unit (L&R) until the parallel-ness of the top and bottom is equally split. Then rotate the PJ (physically on axis to the right or left) until the Top & Bottom are parallel. IF the sides are not parallel then level the PJ Front-to-Back to make them parallel! Finally, begin using the lens-shift knobs to move this *fully* _rectangular_ _image_ onto the screen. Viola`


----------



## gene9p

you are correct..there is no Keystone adjustment


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Hey guys... I've got a show-stopping problem I just started noticing. While YES I'd seen some of the .5 - 1 pixel shift between Green & Blue pixels here's what I noticed _this_ week:
*The entire display has an occasional flicker in brightness*
At first I was suspicious of the HTPC but then I noticed it happening on my DirecTV as well. I tried disconnecting & reconnecting the HDMI cable to no avail and thought: I wonder if it's there during the "Pattern" and *it is present there as well*! This would imply it's something internal to the PJ and with no input being displayed during the Pattern the settings would be of no consequence. Seems I'll need to contact Customer Service and have them replace it -- I've got just over 200 hours on the unit.


Thoughts? Suggestion?


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21411292
> 
> 
> Hey guys... I've got a show-stopping problem I just started noticing. While YES I'd seen some of the .5 - 1 pixel shift between Green & Blue pixels here's what I noticed _this_ week:
> *The entire display has an occasional flicker in brightness*
> At first I was suspicious of the HTPC but then I noticed it happening on my DirecTV as well. I tried disconnecting & reconnecting the HDMI cable to no avail and thought: I wonder if it's there during the "Pattern" and *it is present there as well*! This would imply it's something internal to the PJ and with no input being displayed during the Pattern the settings would be of no consequence. Seems I'll need to contact Customer Service and have them replace it -- I've got just over 200 hours on the unit.
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Suggestion?



My guess bulb. Are you running Eco? If so, run at full-blast for 1/2 hour then go back to Eco and see if it is cured.


----------



## gazzagazza

Firstly your alignment sounds to be perfect. Next as advised switch out of eco mode and watch a movie on full lamp power. The flicker should then be fixed. This is normal as well.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys... I've got a show-stopping problem I just started noticing. While YES I'd seen some of the .5 - 1 pixel shift between Green & Blue pixels here's what I noticed this week:
> 
> 
> The entire display has an occasional flicker in brightness


----------



## bobafart

hey all, I just bought a new Epson 8350.. DVD player works fine but I can't get my Xbox to show video.. I have posted more details here if interested on the specific problem:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1382814 


I was hoping someone could help me out with my receiver/epson 8350 issues as the Xbox 360S doesn't show any video (only audio)


One workaround I am considering is HDMI connection of the Xbox to the projo directly. Then for audio I would use an optic cable.. but I am unsure where this optic cable goes.


My receiver is 30 feet away from my projo... does the optic cable connect from the Xbox to the receiver to get audio??


thanks


----------



## bassage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobafart* /forum/post/21414592
> 
> 
> 
> does the optic cable connect from the Xbox to the receiver to get audio??
> 
> 
> thanks



Yes.


----------



## LowellG

I asked some questions in your other thread. There is not need to use anything but HDMI.


----------



## bobafart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassage* /forum/post/21414649
> 
> 
> Yes.





So basically I need to get a Toslink audio cable and my receiver has to have a Toslink digital audio input, is this correctÉ


also does audio quality degrade with a longer optical cableÉ i need a 30 foot cable.. is this an issueÉ


thanks


----------



## bassage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobafart* /forum/post/21414783
> 
> 
> So basically I need to get a Toslink audio cable and my receiver has to have a Toslink digital audio input, is this correctÉ
> 
> 
> also does audio quality degrade with a longer optical cableÉ i need a 30 foot cable.. is this an issueÉ
> 
> 
> thanks



You should be able to do it all with HDMI, but since you're having trouble, yes you can use the toslink cable from the xbox to the reciever IF, of course, you have a toslink input on the reciever. It's exactly what I do because I have an older reciever with no HDMI input.


As far as longer cables and quality, I really don't know for sure, but I would guess it wouldn't matter since it's all digital. It's either on or it's off. Maybe someone else knows more about that.


----------



## BDestroyer8418

I might be a little late but was looking at Bulb Warranty do most projector owners go for the bulb only. I got it on 11/25 but was delivered 2 weeks later.

What about a Extended Warranty even though we get 2years is it worth it, I believe we have time to get this right only need 90days left on manufacturer's warranty.


Plan on keeping this for atleast 1year all depends on what comes out next year was looking at 3D but not sold on them yet. This is my first Projector and didn't want to go all out on the 1st one. Even if I upgrade in 1 or 2yrs I will prob keep this one around.


Also I need a HDMI Switch I only have 1 HDMI out on my Denon AVR and need to be able to switch between the Projector and the Plasma. Was looking at Monoprice LINKY one's anyone have one. Would like to get one that would work with my Harmony Remote.


----------



## wlhungdude

this would depend on your plasma and receiver, but it works for me. I ran component cables from the monitor out on the back of my reciever (Onkyo 707) to my plasma (it isn't 1080p capable anyway) and ran a 35 foot HDMI cable to my projector via its lone output. The (video) signal is always going to both, but I can just turn on the one I want. Simplest solution for me without needing to purchase or integrate another 'device'.

hope it helps someone... Joe


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BDestroyer8418* /forum/post/21417263
> 
> 
> Also I need a HDMI Switch I only have 1 HDMI out on my Denon AVR and need to be able to switch between the Projector and the Plasma. Was looking at Monoprice



I use this MonoPrice one #5312

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


It outputs to the 8350 projector and 1080p plasma both at the same time. I just turn on which ever display I want to use (or both at the same time) ... no control of the switch is ever needed.


----------



## BDestroyer8418




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21418143
> 
> 
> I use this MonoPrice one #5312
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> It outputs to the 8350 projector and 1080p plasma both at the same time. I just turn on which ever display I want to use (or both at the same time) ... no control of the switch is ever needed.



Awesome so it can tell which Display has power to it then ?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BDestroyer8418* /forum/post/21419568
> 
> 
> Awesome so it can tell which Display has power to it then ?



I don't know about that, I just know the splitter function works on this HDMI chain:


Final 57ft HDMI chain to 8350:

Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR

2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0) (MonoPrice # 5312)

45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable

HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (MonoPrice # 2849)

12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector


... and a 10ft Monoprice HDMI cable from the switch to the Panny 1080p plasma.


I also got one of these at the same time:

# 8204 - 1X2 Mini HDMI Splitter w/ 3D support


But since it's still sitting in the box (unopened and untested) ... I don't feel right recommending it to you.


----------



## Dezmond

Hello, I have a 3010 and am wondering how the quality of the sharpness and crispness of the 8350 is compared . The text for the direct tv menu seems softer then my mits 09 dlp tv. I have tried adjusting the advanced sharpness menu, but still can't quite get the same crispness I am use to with my mits c9. I am deciding on exchanging the 3010 for a 8350. Thanks


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dezmond* /forum/post/21423329
> 
> 
> Hello, I have a 3010 and am wondering how the quality of the sharpness and crispness of the 8350 is compared . The text for the direct tv menu seems softer then my mits 09 dlp tv. I have tried adjusting the advanced sharpness menu, but still can't quite get the same crispness I am use to with my mits c9. I am deciding on exchanging the 3010 for a 8350. Thanks



LCD will never be as sharp as 1-chip DLP. It can vary a bit from projector to projector, but the 8350 could, on average, be a bit better than the 3010 (based on chip size) but would be closer to the 3010 than to a DLP unit.


----------



## Dezmond

Thanks for the response. I adjusted the advance sharpness settings and it made it better. But today during football the white uniforms looked way to bright , even in eco mode, there is also a geometry issue with this one. It will be exchanged or returned Tuesday.


----------



## gazzagazza

You're asking the Impossible of an LCD. Try the Optoma Hd33. And regarding the white uniforms, learn how to use a calibration disk to set brightness and contrast.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dezmond* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I adjusted the advance sharpness settings and it made it better. But today during football the white uniforms looked way to bright , even in eco mode, there is also a geometry issue with this one. It will be exchanged or returned Tuesday.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're asking the Impossible of an LCD. Try the Optoma Hd33. And regarding the white uniforms, learn how to use a calibration disk to set brightness and contrast.



I am having the same contrast issues...I purchased the Disney Wow calibration disk(which is awesome) and still can't get my white levels correct(too bright and washed out). Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21432707
> 
> 
> I am having the same contrast issues...I purchased the Disney Wow calibration disk(which is awesome) and still can't get my white levels correct(too bright and washed out). Anyone else have this problem?



Drop your contrast a couple notches.


To which color mode is your 8350 set?


----------



## 95silverstallion

My 8350 should be arriving tomorrow...My theater isnt done being built yet. Is there anything I should do to ensure its working properly while I finish up the theater room? Maybe hook it up in another room and project it on a bare wall?


----------



## vvanders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21391159
> 
> 
> In my experience they will send you 2 or 3 others will problems even worse than what you sent them, but eventually they will make it right.



Yep, should have known better, this is what the replacement they sent looks like:











In Natural/Cinema color mode the right quarter looks like the saturation is blown. It disappears in Livingroom/Dynamic mode, however then I get painful flickering.


Not really happy I'll have to go through the process again. Not to mention this doesn't give me much faith in the longevity of the refurbs they send.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *95silverstallion* /forum/post/21432920
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be arriving tomorrow...My theater isnt done being built yet. Is there anything I should do to ensure its working properly while I finish up the theater room? Maybe hook it up in another room and project it on a bare wall?




Yes, I would hook it up and give it a go just to double check that everything is fine and working properly.


I would view the image from about 10 feet or so for a 100" or you could roughly approximate what you are going to do in your theater and just make sure there is nothing that "pops" out at you in the image no multi colored white text, (major pixel misalignment) or obvious color issues like the one posted above where there is a major color shift from one side to another.


Good luck and enjoy your projector, they are really a great bang for the buck piece of equipment.


If you are having your theater built, you should start a build thread over in the construction forum.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vvanders* /forum/post/21433053
> 
> 
> Yep, should have known better, this is what the replacement they sent looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Natural/Cinema color mode the right quarter looks like the saturation is blown. It disappears in Livingroom/Dynamic mode, however then I get painful flickering.
> 
> 
> Not really happy I'll have to go through the process again. Not to mention this doesn't give me much faith in the longevity of the refurbs they send.



EEK! I hope I don't have issues like some of you folks with bulb failure under warranty.


----------



## 95silverstallion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE* /forum/post/21433273
> 
> 
> Yes, I would hook it up and give it a go just to double check that everything is fine and working properly.
> 
> 
> I would view the image from about 10 feet or so for a 100" or you could roughly approximate what you are going to do in your theater and just make sure there is nothing that "pops" out at you in the image no multi colored white text, (major pixel misalignment) or obvious color issues like the one posted above where there is a major color shift from one side to another.
> 
> 
> Good luck and enjoy your projector, they are really a great bang for the buck piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> If you are having your theater built, you should start a build thread over in the construction forum.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> RTROSE



Thanks. I'll hook it up and test it out.


Im building my theater myself and plan on around 100-110" 16:9 screen. Front row about 11-12'. Ill start a build thread but I want to have a decent amount of progress going before starting it.


----------



## Dezmond

I returned the epson last night and ordered a hd33 , It will be here by Friday I hope. I also got the 4 yr protection plan and used the 10% off coupon and it was still $46 less then the 3010.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21432707
> 
> 
> I am having the same contrast issues...I purchased the Disney Wow calibration disk(which is awesome) and still can't get my white levels correct(too bright and washed out). Anyone else have this problem?



This is not a smart ass question but how can white be washed out, it's white? Is it your colors and grays at the brighter end of the spectrum that are washed out?


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a smart ass question but how can white be washed out, it's white? Is it your colors and grays at the brighter end of the spectrum that are washed out?



Okay I described it wrong. The white is so white it's almost glowing not washed out, the colors are great. Brightness is calibrated but just can't calibrate the contrast correctly. It's either to white or to dim..no happy medium! May need to use a different calibration disk for the contrast or might just need to accept that this is a entry level projector. Still happy with it overall.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Okay I described it wrong. The white is so white it's almost glowing not washed out, the colors are great. Brightness is calibrated but just can't calibrate the contrast correctly. It's either to white or to dim..no happy medium! May need to use a different calibration disk for the contrast or might just need to accept that this is a entry level projector. Still happy with it overall.



Are you getting any washout from having walls that are too light? I have light walls and it hurts my image quality but there's nothing I can do about it unless I want to get punched in the balls. Grab the AVS HD calibration disc off this site.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Drop your contrast a couple notches.
> 
> 
> To which color mode is your 8350 set?



I've tried almost everything with the contrast settings. I have it set on Cinema Eco mode and color temp is on 6500.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried almost everything with the contrast settings. I have it set on Cinema Eco mode and color temp is on 6500.



Try using the settings I posted a few pages back and then double check your brightness and contrast settings with a cal disc as there seems to be a big discrepancy for those settings.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Are you getting any washout from having walls that are too light? I have light walls and it hurts my image quality but there's nothing I can do about it unless I want to get punched in the balls. Grab the AVS HD calibration disc off this site.



Ouch..sorry to hear that. As for the walls, I repainted a very dark blue color and it helps the pic quality exponentially. Colors look much better, it's just the whites that are sooo bright...they look like they are glowing. I am going to post a pic tonight.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Try using the settings I posted a few pages back and then double check your brightness and contrast settings with a cal disc as there seems to be a big discrepancy for those settings.



Exactly, which is what is so weird because these settings should have a fairly dim picture overall. I'm going to post a pic tonight.


----------



## Scott Simonian

I couldn't find any reference to this in this thread...


Does anyone know how to turn off this projector with a Logitech Harmony One remote? I've got the thing programmed pretty well but can't get it around the double button press to turn it off. I believe it worked fine with my Panasonic ax200u but I can not get it working on this projector. Would be brilliant if anyone knows how to do this.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott Simonian* /forum/post/21436361
> 
> 
> I couldn't find any reference to this in this thread...
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn off this projector with a Logitech Harmony One remote? I've got the thing programmed pretty well but can't get it around the double button press to turn it off. I believe it worked fine with my Panasonic ax200u but I can not get it working on this projector. Would be brilliant if anyone knows how to do this.



I believe there is a setting in the 8350 menu somewhere to disable the Turn Off confirmation.


----------



## Scott Simonian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21436486
> 
> 
> I believe there is a setting in the 8350 menu somewhere to disable the Turn Off confirmation.



Omg, I feel dumb. I never thought of that.










I will give it a try when I get home. Thanks!


----------



## d3mon187

I added the epson 8350 as a device on my harmony 1, and it works fine turning it off with default settings. You aren't trying to program it through ir learning or anything are you?


----------



## Scott Simonian

No. I don't ever do that unless I have no choice. Most of our gear is modern and non-obscure so I've been pretty lucky programming this kind of stuff. I have this set up for my father and he loves the remote. Got a touch button set to adjust the picture modes so he can adjust the overall brightness.


Lol, anyway, yes everything if fully functional but I could not get the thing to turn off with the Harmony off button. I tried the advanced settings with delay and attempted the repeated signal thing but I had no luck there. If there is a function to turn off the prompt asking to turn off, that would surely fix the problem. I dunno why I had not thought about trying that. Lol, it's not my projector I guess.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott Simonian* /forum/post/21436777
> 
> 
> No. I don't ever do that unless I have no choice. Most of our gear is modern and non-obscure so I've been pretty lucky programming this kind of stuff. I have this set up for my father and he loves the remote. Got a touch button set to adjust the picture modes so he can adjust the overall brightness.
> 
> 
> Lol, anyway, yes everything if fully functional but I could not get the thing to turn off with the Harmony off button. I tried the advanced settings with delay and attempted the repeated signal thing but I had no luck there. If there is a function to turn off the prompt asking to turn off, that would surely fix the problem. I dunno why I had not thought about trying that. Lol, it's not my projector I guess.



FYI

I never have used the Off button on my Harmony.

I turn the projector off using an activity configured to turn everything off.

I just program a dummy TV and make it an activity. I just configure the remote to turn on the dummy TV and turn everything else off.


----------



## Scott Simonian

This wasn't for me but for my father and this set up works for him working the way it is. Though he would have to keep the Epson remote handy just to turn it off.


Anyway, I went in the options and turned off the standby confirmation and all is well. Thanks!


----------



## mbrennem

I have the 8350/8700 manual and it has no mention of standby confirmation. I have an 8700 and would like to turn it off but I see no mention of it under Settings>Display. Anyone know why it wouldn't be there? My Harmony will not turn the 8700 off, and I have tried many configurations with no success.


----------



## Scott Simonian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbrennem* /forum/post/21438249
> 
> 
> I have the 8350/8700 manual and it has no mention of standby confirmation. I have an 8700 and would like to turn it off but I see no mention of it under Settings>Display. Anyone know why it wouldn't be there? My Harmony will not turn the 8700 off, and I have tried many configurations with no success.



I'm not with the pj at the moment but the option was buried in the general 'settings' tab, iirc. Some of the selections have a sub menu but I'm 99% sure it was in the 'settings' tab.


The label was called, 'standby confirmation'. I turned that off and the Harmony turned it off on the first try. Hope that works for yours.


----------



## mbrennem

Strange, I looked in every menu and submenu for "standby confirmation" and could not find it. Also odd that it is not mentioned in the user manual (which covers both the 8350 and 8700). If anyone has their projector running and can confirm the exact location of the "Standby Confirmation" setting I would appreciate it!


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21436270
> 
> 
> Okay I described it wrong. The white is so white it's almost glowing not washed out, the colors are great. Brightness is calibrated but just can't calibrate the contrast correctly. It's either to white or to dim..no happy medium! May need to use a different calibration disk for the contrast or might just need to accept that this is a entry level projector. Still happy with it overall.



When you display a gray scale ramp, describe how it compares to this:











Also - what kind of screen do you have? Which setting on the projector? (Dynamic, Cinema, ...?) And what's your brightness and contrast? What about your Gamma?


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When you display a gray scale ramp, describe how it compares to this:
> 
> 
> Also - what kind of screen do you have? Which setting on the projector? (Dynamic, Cinema, ...?) And what's your brightness and contrast? What about your Gamma?



I will bring up a gray scale screenshot asap but as for the screen it is a Focupix matte white 1.5 gain 112". I'm going to take a pic of the settings on my lunch break. Get back to you soon!


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When you display a gray scale ramp, describe how it compares to this:
> 
> 
> Also - what kind of screen do you have? Which setting on the projector? (Dynamic, Cinema, ...?) And what's your brightness and contrast? What about your Gamma?




Attachment 233018 


See picture for settings. Again, i will try the grayscale tonight. Thanks


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21441309
> 
> Attachment 233018
> 
> 
> See picture for settings. Again, i will try the grayscale tonight. Thanks



Good. Also tell us what your Gamma is set to please.


Also, how do feed a signal to this projector? What is the source? What components does the signal pass through before it reaches the projector? What type of connection(s) do you use? HDMI all the way or something else?


It could easily be that one of the components in the chain (like the receiver for example) is doing something to the picture to cause what you're seeing. To rule out that it's one of those components, you should try using the shortest path with the least components in the chain. For example, connect your Blu-Ray player directly to your projector with an HDMI cable.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Good. Also tell us what your Gamma is set to please.
> 
> 
> Also, how do feed a signal to this projector? What is the source? What components does the signal pass through before it reaches the projector? What type of connection(s) do you use? HDMI all the way or something else?
> 
> 
> It could easily be that one of the components in the chain (like the receiver for example) is doing something to the picture to cause what you're seeing. To rule out that it's one of those components, you should try using the shortest path with the least components in the chain. For example, connect your Blu-Ray player directly to your projector with an HDMI cable.



Thanks for helping! I am using a 50' HDMI 24AWG standard speed and port saver adapters. I am also using an HDMI Matrix 4x2 switcher. All running through a Pioneer receiver(Blu-Ray player and HD DVR). Gamma is set to 2.2. I hear you on the direct route but this is the best way for me to consolidate all of my components and only have to run one HDMI.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21391838
> 
> 
> 
> My screen has some gain, but I'm having second thoughts about it. I miss the crystal clear picture I got on the wall, now there is a "film" and it seems like the image is trapped under it.
> 
> 
> If all gain screens have this issue, I think I prefer no gain.



Carp,


I know this is old news, but I just had to say that your new screen/masking setup look awesome. Great work! I especially like how the screen cuts into the beam to maximize every last inch. Kind of comical given the screen is already gigantic, but I totally get it.


Bummer to hear about the DIY screen result. I'm a newbie, but I'm of the opinion that neutral gain and light control is the way to go. High gain seems to have too many drawbacks and maybes associated with it. Fancy screens may or may not give you the result you want and WILL cost you $$$.


Please post pics of screen 2.0! Good luck!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott Simonian* /forum/post/21436361
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn off this projector with a Logitech Harmony One remote? I've got the thing programmed pretty well but can't get it around the double button press to turn it off. I believe it worked fine with my Panasonic ax200u but I can not get it working on this projector. Would be brilliant if anyone knows how to do this.



The Harmony setup software has a PowerOFF function you can assign to a button. Personally I use it on the "0" button under TV device when I switch my 8350 off using my Harmony 300i.


On another topic, I also assign to the "0" button when I use Media Center Remote SE to control my PC whether it be MediaPortal, DirecTV2PC, or WMC... being able to Exit a running application often comes in handy - besides, how often do you use the "0" button on a remote control, anyway???


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21441309
> 
> Attachment 233018
> 
> 
> See picture for settings. Again, i will try the grayscale tonight. Thanks



Turn auto iris off.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21441879
> 
> 
> Gamma is set to 2.2.



Use 2.4.


----------



## Ifinallygota21v

Any deals on the 8350 out there?


----------



## jmoakk

Nine months and 1500 lamp hours later and I finally had to contact epson support because of two giant dust blobs that decided to show up under normal viewing conditions. Epson support was decent and over nighted me a refurbished unit. I ordered it on Monday morning and it showed up today (Wednesday) due to Monday being a holiday (the day after new years).


Unfortunately the refurbished unit also has two giant dust blobs that are noticeable under normal viewing conditions, in different locations of course. I hadn't tried to focus on the dust before but holy crap was I amazed when I did. I switched over to HDMI 2 which doesn't have anything connected to it. Once I had a blank black screen I began to focus the projector on the dust blobs. The whole screen lit up like a Christmas tree! Red, green, and blue specs everywhere. (toggling the menu on and off on a blank screen helps make the the specs visible) The refurbished unit is actually worse than my original unit. With the largest green specs being the ones visible under normal viewing conditions.


I guess I'll contact Epson again in the morning







Anyone else have the same problem with getting a crappy refurbished unit?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/21443304
> 
> 
> Nine months and 1500 lamp hours later and I finally had to contact epson support because of two giant dust blobs that decided to show up under normal viewing conditions. Epson support was decent and over nighted me a refurbished unit. I ordered it on Monday morning and it showed up today (Wednesday) due to Monday being a holiday (the day after new years).
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the refurbished unit also has two giant dust blobs that are noticeable under normal viewing conditions, in different locations of course. I hadn't tried to focus on the dust before but holy crap was I amazed when I did. I switched over to HDMI 2 which doesn't have anything connected to it. Once I had a blank black screen I began to focus the projector on the dust blobs. The whole screen lit up like a Christmas tree! Red, green, and blue specs everywhere. (toggling the menu on and off on a blank screen helps make the the specs visible) The refurbished unit is actually worse than my original unit. With the largest green specs being the ones visible under normal viewing conditions.
> 
> 
> I guess I'll contact Epson again in the morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else have the same problem with getting a crappy refurbished unit?



Epson will keep sending them until you're completely satisfied. You just happened to hit a dud.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Epson will keep sending them until you're completely satisfied. You just happened to hit a dud.



Thanks, I figured they wouldn't have an issue sending me another refurbished unit. I'm just afraid of how many duds I'll need to go through before getting a good one.


----------



## Scott Simonian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21442365
> 
> 
> The Harmony setup software has a PowerOFF function you can assign to a button. Personally I use it on the "0" button under TV device when I switch my 8350 off using my Harmony 300i.
> 
> 
> On another topic, I also assign to the "0" button when I use Media Center Remote SE to control my PC whether it be MediaPortal, DirecTV2PC, or WMC... being able to Exit a running application often comes in handy - besides, how often do you use the "0" button on a remote control, anyway???



Oh, I know but you got to understand that this set up was not for me but for my +60 year old father and that kind of thing wouldn't be intuitive for the guy.










I own a Harmony 1100 that I use in my own HT room. It's pretty cool but I think mine has Alzheimer's or something.


----------



## DaddyLongLegs79

8350 here I come! I am getting excited for some BF3 on this pj. Woo!


----------



## BDestroyer8418

How many went for a bulb warranty and is there any others besides Mack. I'm past the 30 days at 41 days tried emailing them about it but they never really answer my question.


Epson is covering the bulb for 2 years now or was that for another projector ?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaddyLongLegs79* /forum/post/21443903
> 
> 
> 8350 here I come! I am getting excited for some BF3 on this pj. Woo!



I threw up the image on the wall to get a feel for what size screen I can fit and 100" is about all I can get from my low ceilings it was fun playing BF3 not much you can't see. I was playing on the Kuro last night after playing on the 8350 the Kuro has some lag to it that I never noticed until now.



Just need to get a screen now still going back and forth but that mostly since I wasn't sure if I was going to keep it.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I figured they wouldn't have an issue sending me another refurbished unit. I'm just afraid of how many duds I'll need to go through before getting a good one.



I went through 3 before they finally sent a new unit.


----------



## bigbadbuff

I have a mount question. My room is 14x20x8. There is a ceiling fan in the middle or the room that hangs roughly 8" down (does not have an extension pole on it, but from ceiling to the bottom of the fan is about 8"). The previous owners used this room as a theater room, and have a hole cut in the ceiling at about 18' back. They used an extension on their mount, bringing the projector down to about 20". They used a crap mount though, so I am replacing.


My questions are:


1) With lens shift, do I really need an extension pole or should I be able to mount directly to the ceiling and avoid the fan being in the way?


2) I have read good things about Chief, PCMD- are those still recommended if you have to use an extension pole? That drives the price up quite a bit.


----------



## mbrennem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbadbuff* /forum/post/21444506
> 
> 
> I have a mount question. My room is 14x20x8. There is a ceiling fan in the middle or the room that hangs roughly 8" down (does not have an extension pole on it, but from ceiling to the bottom of the fan is about 8"). The previous owners used this room as a theater room, and have a hole cut in the ceiling at about 18' back. They used an extension on their mount, bringing the projector down to about 20". They used a crap mount though, so I am replacing.
> 
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1) With lens shift, do I really need an extension pole or should I be able to mount directly to the ceiling and avoid the fan being in the way?
> 
> 
> 2) I have read good things about Chief, PCMD- are those still recommended if you have to use an extension pole? That drives the price up quite a bit.



My first question would be do you really need the ceiling fan or can you replace it with a lower profile light fixture which might solve the problem?


If you need to keep the fan, the lens of the projector will need to be below the 8" clearance needed to get past the fan. Lens shift will not help the image project through an object that lies between the projector lens and the screen.


----------



## bigbadbuff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbrennem* /forum/post/21444698
> 
> 
> If you need to keep the fan, the lens of the projector will need to be below the 8" clearance needed to get past the fan. Lens shift will not help the image project through an object that lies between the projector lens and the screen.



I do want to keep the fan, I was hoping I could lens shift down below the fan and still hit my target area on the wall. I think it would be close but I'll go with an extension just in case.


Thanks


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbadbuff* /forum/post/21445004
> 
> 
> I do want to keep the fan, I was hoping I could lens shift down below the fan and still hit my target area on the wall. I think it would be close but I'll go with an extension just in case.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think throw distance, and distance from object will be a factor. I had this issue with a HVAC duct, I used a cheapie mount, but you can hopefully get a feel for how low you might need your projector by viewing my pics here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=21445459 


I am projecting 144" from 20 or so ft away with a HVAC bulkhead basically in the middle of the throw.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I went through 3 before they finally sent a new unit.



Thanks for the info, refurbished unit #2 is on its way. Wish me luck....


----------



## dieselvrr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ifinallygota21v* /forum/post/21443160
> 
> 
> Any deals on the 8350 out there?



x2! Amazon is down to 1094


----------



## mbrennem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbadbuff* /forum/post/21445004
> 
> 
> I do want to keep the fan, I was hoping I could lens shift down below the fan and still hit my target area on the wall. I think it would be close but I'll go with an extension just in case.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Take a string. Attach it or have someone hold it at the very top edge of the screen (or proposed screen). Stretch the string past the fan (with the fan not running of course!) to the possible projector location and pull it tight. Anywhere the string will reach without touching/crossing any part of the fan is where the lens could be placed (to be safe I would assume the center of the lens, not the top of the lens). This should give you a good sense of how high/low the projector can be placed.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21445489
> 
> 
> I think throw distance, and distance from object will be a factor. I had this issue with a HVAC duct, I used a cheapie mount, but you can hopefully get a feel for how low you might need your projector by viewing my pics here.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=21445459
> 
> 
> I am projecting 144" from 20 or so ft away with a HVAC bulkhead basically in the middle of the throw.



This is going to be some basic geometry and depends on the spatial relationship of your PJ, your screen, and your obstacle. If you don't want to get into your 10th grade formulas, draw a sting from the top of your lens to the top of your screen and if that string doesn't intersect your obstacle, you'll be OK (as a rule of thumb)










In the picture, top of my PJ lens is roughly 78" from floor, top of screen is roughly 72", distance to fan is about 4 ft, and distance to screen is about 18ft. bottom of light kit is also 78" and I shortened the pulls to 77" from ground to get them out of the image







Google slope calculator and you can get some help with your trig!!! I computed the slopes of the lines from PJ to screen (0,78)(18,72) and obstruction to screen (4,77)(18,72) and determined I was AOK. In fact I have about 1/2 inch to spare


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dieselvrr* /forum/post/21445728
> 
> 
> x2! Amazon is down to 1094



my local best buy matched amazon's $1089 last week


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be some basic geometry and depends on the spatial relationship of your PJ, your screen, and your obstacle. If you don't want to get into your 10th grade formulas, draw a sting from the top of your lens to the top of your screen and if that string doesn't intersect your obstacle, you'll be OK (as a rule of thumb)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture, top of my PJ lens is roughly 78" from floor, top of screen is roughly 72", distance to fan is about 4 ft, and distance to screen is about 18ft. bottom of light kit is also 78" and I shortened the pulls to 77" from ground to get them out of the image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Google slope calculator and you can get some help with your trig!!! I computed the slopes of the lines from PJ to screen (0,78)(18,72) and obstruction to screen (4,77)(18,72) and determined I was AOK. In fact I have about 1/2 inch to spare



What kind of wall mount do you have there?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/21447714
> 
> 
> What kind of wall mount do you have there?




It's an old school TV mount from Peerless that used to hold the 13" in the bathroom, pre flat screen days! I think it was designed for 10"->27" or something. I've got it collapsed to about the smallest setting.


Works out PERFECTLY!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-pla-_-NA-_-NA


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It's an old school TV mount from Peerless that used to hold the 13" in the bathroom, pre flat screen days! I think it was designed for 10"->27" or something. I've got it collapsed to about the smallest setting.
> 
> 
> Works out PERFECTLY!
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-pla-_-NA-_-NA



I like the wall mount- it's easier than the ceiling. I would need one that swings out from the wall however as the horizontal shift would be too much. Have u seen any like that?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/21447842
> 
> 
> I like the wall mount- it's easier than the ceiling. I would need one that swings out from the wall however as the horizontal shift would be too much. Have u seen any like that?



You can swing and swivel this mount. You can even extend the lower bar to get it out further.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21442173
> 
> 
> Carp,
> 
> 
> I know this is old news, but I just had to say that your new screen/masking setup look awesome. Great work! I especially like how the screen cuts into the beam to maximize every last inch. Kind of comical given the screen is already gigantic, but I totally get it.
> 
> 
> Bummer to hear about the DIY screen result. I'm a newbie, but I'm of the opinion that neutral gain and light control is the way to go. High gain seems to have too many drawbacks and maybes associated with it. Fancy screens may or may not give you the result you want and WILL cost you $$$.
> 
> 
> Please post pics of screen 2.0! Good luck!



Thanks a lot! I agree that it's ridiculous







that I cut part of the trim so I could get a bigger picture. I could have just had the whole screen lower, but I want my center channel to be as high as possible (have a stand on the way) and still have a crazy big screen. If only the beam weren't there.... hmmm... that would mean the house would crash down on top of me, maybe that's not such a great idea...


----------



## 95silverstallion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ifinallygota21v* /forum/post/21443160
> 
> 
> Any deals on the 8350 out there?



I just got mine off Amazon for $1099 OTD.


----------



## 95silverstallion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21446611
> 
> 
> my local best buy matched amazon's $1089 last week



but did you then pay sales tax making it more then the $1089?


----------



## jouko342

6300 replies, this is going to take a while to go through










After taking DLPs off my list due to lack of lens shift at this price range, the 8350 (TW-3200 in Europe) seems to be the best option for home theater and PS3 gaming use. It would replace my Panny PT-AX200 which essentially died, and Panny would charge me as much as a new 8350 for repairs alone!


The dynamic iris on the PT-AX200 was pretty much useless because it was so slow. Is 8350's fast?


----------



## gene9p




95silverstallion said:


> I just got mine off Amazon for $1099
> 
> 
> 
> I got my local BB to match PC Richard's in store price of 995 by taking picture of AD on my cell phone


----------



## jouko342

In anticipation of buying a 8350, I have a follow-up to the recent calibration discussions. How would you recommend to calibrate the PJ for HTPC and PS3 usage? I ran my Panny PT-AX200 with just one calibration on the PJ done with PS3, and used the HTPC's GPU to make tweaks to grey levels when watching TV via my HTPC.


Would it make more sense to calibrate once for PS3, once for HTPC, and save as presets? I could put the sequence in my Harmony One to automatically switch presets when I change the source.


Also, since I use PS3 for gaming and movies, I might even benefit from calibrating with the PS3 twice: once for games with PS3 set to "Full" range (8350 to what?), and for movies with "Limited" (8350 to what?) - hope I understood the earlier discussions correctly.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21450608
> 
> 
> In anticipation of buying a 8350, I have a follow-up to the recent calibration discussions. How would you recommend to calibrate the PJ for HTPC and PS3 usage? I ran my Panny PT-AX200 with just one calibration on the PJ done with PS3, and used the HTPC's GPU to make tweaks to grey levels when watching TV via my HTPC.
> 
> 
> Would it make more sense to calibrate once for PS3, once for HTPC, and save as presets? I could put the sequence in my Harmony One to automatically switch presets when I change the source.
> 
> 
> Also, since I use PS3 for gaming and movies, I might even benefit from calibrating with the PS3 twice: once for games with PS3 set to "Full" range (8350 to what?), and for movies with "Limited" (8350 to what?) - hope I understood the earlier discussions correctly.



I'm DEFINITELY not trying to throw any bombs and I'm all about sharing of information but I get perplexed when people want to share calibration numbers for "best picture". If it were that simple, they'd be able to do it at the factory. Now I get that a set of calibrations may point out that certain devices "sway in general directions" for behavior, but the number of key variables are boggling. Brightness of individual bulbs vary, lens quality can vary, light follow the inverse square law so distance means a lot (distance from PJ to screen and from screen to viewer), reflectivity of the screen, light control in the room, quality of the source (device and content), ... and the list goes on


I'm all about getting things right but IMHO, the right calibration is what looks right to YOU. I think a small investment in one of the many calibration disks and a few hours of your time, with a couple brews, and you'll get all the pleasure you can from your setup.


Again, please, not trying to toss any grenades, it's just one of those things that makes me go, hmmmmmmmmm


----------



## squirlin

8350 and my Focus / Convergence Issues...


Hi - Posting here for the first time since I have always found good info and tips on this forum (thanks everyone!). I have had an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 projector - no issues for many months, but a couple months ago started to notice focusing issues... I could not get the entire screen in focus. If the left side was in focus the right went out and vice versa. So Epson (great service) sent a replacement overnight and now I need to decide what to do next.


The replacement projector to my eyes, a "focused" image appears soft and convergence test looks poor compared to the original one I purchased.


If you can, please view my tests here

it's on youtube video ID fXMAtqa6c8w title 'Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 Focus and Convergence Issues'

(sorry - I can't post URLs here)










I think I'm going to ask for another replacement - I can't live with half the screen in focus on the original one, and convergence just seems way off on the replacement (and thus it always looks soft). Any thoughts, comments or recommendations regarding my situation is appreciated!


Thanks!


----------



## leaningjowler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squirlin* /forum/post/21451255
> 
> 
> 8350 and my Focus / Convergence Issues...
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to ask for another replacement - I can't live with half the screen in focus on the original one, and convergence just seems way off on the replacement (and thus it always looks soft). Any thoughts, comments or recommendations regarding my situation is appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Looks a little off in the picture, if your not happy with it send it back they will send you a new one. I had an issue and it took 2-3 replacements before I got one that worked right. One of those was a shipping problem though. I would just tell them the picture is off and they should replace the replacement.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21451020
> 
> 
> I'm DEFINITELY not trying to throw any bombs and I'm all about sharing of information but I get perplexed when people want to share calibration numbers for "best picture". If it were that simple, they'd be able to do it at the factory. Now I get that a set of calibrations may point out that certain devices "sway in general directions" for behavior, but the number of key variables are boggling. Brightness of individual bulbs vary, lens quality can vary, light follow the inverse square law so distance means a lot (distance from PJ to screen and from screen to viewer), reflectivity of the screen, light control in the room, quality of the source (device and content), ... and the list goes on
> 
> 
> I'm all about getting things right but IMHO, the right calibration is what looks right to YOU. I think a small investment in one of the many calibration disks and a few hours of your time, with a couple brews, and you'll get all the pleasure you can from your setup.
> 
> 
> Again, please, not trying to toss any grenades, it's just one of those things that makes me go, hmmmmmmmmm



Did you mean to respond to someone else's post? If not, I am perplexed at how did you get to the impression I was asking or about to share calibration numbers? I wasn't, and I won't. Well, I guess I would if someone asked, but I (also) think there's absolutely zero point in using someone else's. Consumer grade projectors are not so uniform that they would be of any use.


So for clarity in case my language was ambiguous: I have a calibration puck (Spyder 2, I know, not the best and it's old) and software (HCFR, which barely works in Win 7 64 bit) and have experience calibrating projector screens and monitor screens. I'm looking for best practices with this setup, ie. how to get most accurate picture from HTPC and PS3, possibly by calibrating the PJ two or three times, depending on the source.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21451922
> 
> 
> Did you mean to respond to someone else's post? If not, I am perplexed at how did you get to the impression I was asking or about to share calibration numbers? I wasn't, and I won't. Well, I guess I would if someone asked, but I (also) think there's absolutely zero point in using someone else's. Consumer grade projectors are not so uniform that they would be of any use.
> 
> 
> So for clarity in case my language was ambiguous: I have a calibration puck (Spyder 2, I know, not the best and it's old) and software (HCFR, which barely works in Win 7 64 bit) and have experience calibrating projector screens and monitor screens. I'm looking for best practices with this setup, ie. how to get most accurate picture from HTPC and PS3, possibly by calibrating the PJ two or three times, depending on the source.



OOOOPS! Yes, to someone that was asking for calibration settings. I started my thoughts, got wrapped up in a call, came back and hit the wrong quote!!!


----------



## jouko342

Hehe. Since you seem to know your stuff and gave me such heartache, you can also reply to my question while you're at it


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squirlin* /forum/post/21451255
> 
> 
> 8350 and my Focus / Convergence Issues...
> 
> 
> Hi - Posting here for the first time since I have always found good info and tips on this forum (thanks everyone!). I have had an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 projector - no issues for many months, but a couple months ago started to notice focusing issues... I could not get the entire screen in focus. If the left side was in focus the right went out and vice versa. So Epson (great service) sent a replacement overnight and now I need to decide what to do next.
> 
> 
> The replacement projector to my eyes, a "focused" image appears soft and convergence test looks poor compared to the original one I purchased.
> 
> 
> If you can, please view my tests here
> 
> it's on youtube video ID fXMAtqa6c8w title 'Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 Focus and Convergence Issues'
> 
> (sorry - I can't post URLs here)
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to ask for another replacement - I can't live with half the screen in focus on the original one, and convergence just seems way off on the replacement (and thus it always looks soft). Any thoughts, comments or recommendations regarding my situation is appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks!



If you want a short answer I'd say you're in this deep, have them send another.


I like your "convergence test"... in fact, what grid are you using when you snap those pics? From the close-up it's not apparent the original was having focus issues - you're sure it wasn't an alignment or pointing of the PJ issue, right? I ask this because the 8350 I bought new (in October) has the appearance of your replacement B (when you get up close and a slight color hue around _black_ text from a distance) and I'd been told that a 0.5 - 1 pixel shift, or misalignment was to be expected... that, in fact, was "perfect," or did I misinterpret this response ? I like how crisp your original A is _in color_ and am still considering sending mine in seeing as it's nearly identical to your replacement B image with the color separations!


I'm trying to understand what's to be expected and when to send one back, too. From my 14' viewing distance (124" diag.) the image seems really sharp - aside from text having a color hue. Is this abnormal? Would even a "good" unit drift with time and separate the colors by a half-to-one pixel? IS my description representative of your replacement B image, or how would you describe the appearance?


On another note... *THANKS for suggesting my running the PJ in "normal" power mode (not-ECO) to correct the flickering.* Did just that: 30-minutes of 'normal' and the image is stead now that I'm back on ECO-mode!


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21450038
> 
> 
> 6300 replies, this is going to take a while to go through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After taking DLPs off my list due to lack of lens shift at this price range, the 8350 (TW-3200 in Europe) seems to be the best option for home theater and PS3 gaming use. It would replace my Panny PT-AX200 which essentially died, and Panny would charge me as much as a new 8350 for repairs alone!
> 
> 
> The dynamic iris on the PT-AX200 was pretty much useless because it was so slow. Is 8350's fast?



I thik I may have responded in yor prior thread. The iris is OK, but I don't use it. My room doesn't have perfect light control, and I've found using the iris doesn't really add to my black level, as there is enough other bleed onto my screen from outdoor streetlights at night. The 8350 is a generation or 2 newer than the AX200, and black levels got better in that time.


----------



## Manos777

For those looking for calibration settings, here are mine. I welcome comments and questions:


Here are my settings:


I start with Cinema, then:


Brightness: -11

Contrast: +11

Color Sat: 0

Tint: 0

Sharpness: 0


Epson Super White: Off

HDMI Range: Expanded

Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)

ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)

Auto Iris: Off


----------



## squirlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21452772
> 
> 
> I like your "convergence test"... in fact, what grid are you using when you snap those pics?



I used this...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21452772
> 
> 
> From the close-up it's not apparent the original was having focus issues - you're sure it wasn't an alignment or pointing of the PJ issue, right? I ask this because the 8350 I bought new (in October) has the appearance of your replacement B (when you get up close and a slight color hue around _black_ text from a distance) and I'd been told that a 0.5 - 1 pixel shift, or misalignment was to be expected... that, in fact, was "perfect," or did I misinterpret this response?



For the picture of the original I took, I put the grid in the part of the screen that was focused - while that side is in focus the other is not... and it's not an align/pointing issue... could not resolve manually in any way. See the video I put up for a demo.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21452772
> 
> 
> From my 14' viewing distance (124" diag.) the image seems really sharp - aside from text having a color hue. Is this abnormal? Would even a "good" unit drift with time and separate the colors by a half-to-one pixel? IS my description representative of your replacement B image, or how would you describe the appearance?



I think what you are describing is similar to what I see from the replacement (B)... Considering the first one I got did not show that at all, I'm thinking that it is not normal... the bar for me was set with the first one I got... so I have returned the replacement. Fingers crossed the 2nd replacement does not give me either issue.


----------



## Peterose2002

I haven't calibrated my 8350 yet but I like the dynamic color mode the best. I'm not tech savy but I seem to like the bright picture.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those looking for calibration settings, here are mine. I welcome comments and questions:
> 
> 
> Here are my settings:
> 
> 
> I start with Cinema, then:
> 
> 
> Brightness: -11
> 
> Contrast: +11
> 
> Color Sat: 0
> 
> Tint: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 0
> 
> 
> Epson Super White: Off
> 
> HDMI Range: Expanded
> 
> Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)
> 
> ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)
> 
> Auto Iris: Off



Just a general comment... Wow, are you watching from the sun..contrast is so high! (;...From what I have read on this forum everyone's picture will vary because of the million and one variables involved but your contrast level seems very high. I only say this because I have to crank mine down so low, even on cinema mode. To each his own and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do. What kind of screen are you using if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21452047
> 
> 
> Hehe. Since you seem to know your stuff and gave me such heartache, you can also reply to my question while you're at it



I calibrated mine once for movies on my PS3 since that's what I mostly use this for. If you don't mind swapping the settings all the time and you see significant difference based on source, it's your life







It's one of those "how much better will it be?" things for me!!!!


Good luck


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those looking for calibration settings, here are mine. I welcome comments and questions:
> 
> 
> Here are my settings:
> 
> 
> I start with Cinema, then:
> 
> 
> Brightness: -11
> 
> Contrast: +11
> 
> Color Sat: 0
> 
> Tint: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 0
> 
> 
> Epson Super White: Off
> 
> HDMI Range: Expanded
> 
> Power Consumption: Normal (with some ambient light)
> 
> ECO (in very dark, light controlled room, at night)
> 
> Auto Iris: Off



You may have the same thing going on as Droid did initially where your projector and source are not matched as to whether HDMI range is normal or expanded. Once this was corrected, brightness and contrast were much closer to neutral. I think both got set to normal HDMI range.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I calibrated mine once for movies on my PS3 since that's what I mostly use this for. If you don't mind swapping the settings all the time and you see significant difference based on source, it's your life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's one of those "how much better will it be?" things for me!!!!
> 
> 
> Good luck



The memory slots should make switching fairly easy.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't calibrated my 8350 yet but I like the dynamic color mode the best. I'm not tech savy but I seem to like the bright picture.



Dynamic is brightest - too bright for most situations, and the color rendering is the least accurate. It is good for football or video games in a fully lit room.


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic is brightest - too bright for most situations, and the color rendering is the least accurate. It is good for football or video games in a fully lit room.



I'll see after calibration but the color seems to "pop" most on dynamic. All other modes seem to be dull. I used calibration setting offered in this forum in the meantime. Thanks


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21456182
> 
> 
> You may have the same thing going on as Droid did initially where your projector and source are not matched as to whether HDMI range is normal or expanded. Once this was corrected, brightness and contrast were much closer to neutral. I think both got set to normal HDMI range.



No, changing HDMI range does not change the point of clipping and my settings are still close to what he listed. The problem with mine were that I had the the projector and the PS3 set to expanded and my SAT set to normal. Where to avoid confusion I just should have set the PS3 and the projector to limited and normal. I still don't know why there is such a variance in calibrations.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21457002
> 
> 
> No, changing HDMI range does not change the point of clipping and my settings are still close to what he listed. The problem with mine were that I had the the projector and the PS3 set to expanded and my SAT set to normal. Where to avoid confusion I just should have set the PS3 and the projector to limited and normal. I still don't know why there is such a variance in calibrations.



OK - when I changed mine to limited and normal, the brightness and contrast numbers changed quite a bit (closer toward 0 for both). I probably had one or the other out of whack.


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No, changing HDMI range does not change the point of clipping and my settings are still close to what he listed. The problem with mine were that I had the the projector and the PS3 set to expanded and my SAT set to normal. Where to avoid confusion I just should have set the PS3 and the projector to limited and normal. I still don't know why there is such a variance in calibrations.



I've been playing with your calibration settings and with video levels matched on source and projector I need brightness 0 and contrast -4 which is a better situation.


----------



## slybarman

I ended up with brightness 0 and contrast -1


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21457475
> 
> 
> I've been playing with your calibration settings and with video levels matched on source and projector I need brightness 0 and contrast -4 which is a better situation.



I've double checked a million times but you guys keep putting doubt in my mind so I'm going to go check again. Haha.


Edit: If you set your source to expanded/full and the projector to the same where do you land?


----------



## Droid6

All right, I definitely opened a can of worms here. I went back and tried all kinds of combinations and I'm under the impression that the Epson has an issue with it RGB range settings.


----------



## gazzagazza

[quote="Droid6"

Edit: If you set your source to expanded/full and the projector to the same where do you land?[/QUOTE]


That's what my setup requires.


----------



## Patd1

Hi Guys

I just received my new 8350 a couple of days ago that I bought off of Amazon. This projector is a big improvement over the Optoma HD72 that I have been using. With the lens shift and better zoom lens it is so much easier to setup than that old HD72. I am going to be using it in two different locations. In my living room with a Panoview Gray Wolf II pull down 92 inch screen and out in my back yard with a 8 foot by 14 foot screen made with blackout cloth. I have already used it for the two football games yesterday in my living room and for one movie out in the backyard. I haven't done much adjusting to it yet but was wondering if anybody has any experience with putting contrast filters over the lens to get blacker blacks? I read it somewhere that you can get a better picture by using one.


----------



## kjr39

I say down to calibrate my 8350 tonight and I'm lost. I'm using the Disney WOW with PS3 to receiver to projector. I am changing the brightness / contrast, but while the screen gets bright / darker, the calibration stars do not become more / less visible. Same thing for the color. Looking through the blue filter, everything is the correct level and it takes moving the color / tint all the way to one side for it to change.


Thoughts?


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patd1* /forum/post/21459727
> 
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> I haven't done much adjusting to it yet but was wondering if anybody has any experience with putting contrast filters over the lens to get blacker blacks? I read it somewhere that you can get a better picture by using one.



an interesting thought..i was thinking myself about about a polarized lens cover similar to what is used on camera lenses


----------



## korygrandy

I snapped a couple of screenies (photos) of the NFL Wildcard games this weekend. I welcome you to take a look at my thread and comment and critique in any way.









Pics of NFL Wildcard on 8350


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21458860
> 
> 
> That's what my setup requires.



OK, I went back and checked and this is what I came up with. When I set the PS3 to full and the projector to expanded I get the same results as I initially posted. When I set the PS3 to limited and the projector to normal I get 0 and -4 exactly what you get. I don't know why you get something so different than me when using expanded. I have to say now that I'm really thinking Epson screwed the pooch on this one because these settings do not perform normally. There is no reason the normal setting should clip blacks and going in between settings when matching source settings shouldn't change the settings so drastically either (they shouldn't change at all). I'm going to pull the colorimeter out again and see if going from expanded/full and normal/limited changes my color calibration and gamma calibration. It shouldn't but something definitely doesn't seem right here so i wouldn't be surprised if it did.


Edit: Also no matter what I set the PS3 to Limited/Full setting the projector to Auto always defaults to Normal. I though maybe my AVR was causing this so I connected a blu-ray player directly to the projector and it was doing the same thing.


----------



## slybarman

I think you are going to find the color is OK. Your settings look pretty darn good on mine now with projector and PS3 set to normal/limited.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21465018
> 
> 
> I think you are going to find the color is OK. Your settings look pretty darn good on mine now with projector and PS3 set to normal/limited.



I hope so it took quite a bit of time to nail down the color. i just called Epson tech support and to two people and both were clueless. They passed my info on to their engineers but I wouldn't be surprised if they either don't word my question correctly or don't ever reply.


----------



## Manos777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21456066
> 
> 
> Just a general comment... Wow, are you watching from the sun..contrast is so high! (;...From what I have read on this forum everyone's picture will vary because of the million and one variables involved but your contrast level seems very high. I only say this because I have to crank mine down so low, even on cinema mode. To each his own and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do. What kind of screen are you using if you don't mind me asking?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21456182
> 
> 
> You may have the same thing going on as Droid did initially where your projector and source are not matched as to whether HDMI range is normal or expanded. Once this was corrected, brightness and contrast were much closer to neutral. I think both got set to normal HDMI range.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21457002
> 
> 
> No, changing HDMI range does not change the point of clipping and my settings are still close to what he listed. The problem with mine were that I had the the projector and the PS3 set to expanded and my SAT set to normal. Where to avoid confusion I just should have set the PS3 and the projector to limited and normal. I still don't know why there is such a variance in calibrations.



I arrived at my setting by using the calibration tests on The Incredibles blu-ray disc. I noticed I could not get darkest grey shades to appear on HDMI Normal. So, I tried Expanded setting and voila, they all appeared. I had to turn down brightness and increased contrast to get it back to calibrated levels. To my knowledge my LG BD570 does not have an option to change its HDMI range, so that was constant. I can tell you, my picture looks amazing. I rarely have to change the settings. My room is near pitch black room at night, with heavy curtains and blinds, and during the day, with a minimum of ambient light, all I have to do is switch to Normal from Eco setting and I am good to go.


----------



## Manos777

Quick question: I lost my lens cover. Should I worry?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/21465333
> 
> 
> Quick question: I lost my lens cover. Should I worry?



I'd find where I could get another if it were me


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21465018
> 
> 
> I think you are going to find the color is OK. Your settings look pretty darn good on mine now with projector and PS3 set to normal/limited.



I'm sending you a PM. I want you to check something out for me if you could.


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Manos777* /forum/post/21465333
> 
> 
> Quick question: I lost my lens cover. Should I worry?




place a soft cloth over it


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21466119
> 
> 
> place a soft cloth over it



why does the lens need to be covered?

transportation?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21466326
> 
> 
> why does the lens need to be covered?
> 
> transportation?



DUST and grime. I used to be a professional photographer and protecting the glass is always job ONE


----------



## slybarman

I do not use my lens cover (except for shipping the projector). It messes up the focus when you put it on or take it off.


----------



## cdelena




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21466394
> 
> 
> I do not use my lens cover (except for shipping the projector). It messes up the focus when you put it on or take it off.



Agreed... have not used mine in the year+ I have had it. The lens position and focus move if you just touch it wrong.


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21466394
> 
> 
> I do not use my lens cover (except for shipping the projector). It messes up the focus when you put it on or take it off.



+1, i can't imagine having to mess with the focus and possibly the projector alignment each time!


This lens should be out of the way of fingers and other objects that could touch it, leaving dust as the main concern, which can be removed with a light duster of some sort.


But to each their own of course


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/21466434
> 
> 
> +1, i can't imagine having to mess with the focus and possibly the projector alignment each time!
> 
> 
> This lens should be out of the way of fingers and other objects that could touch it, leaving dust as the main concern, which can be removed with a light duster of some sort.
> 
> 
> But to each their own of course



Understood but I've got my PJ positioning pretty locked down and find I can gently tap the lens cover on and pull it off without changing anything. Fully understand the other concerns.


----------



## jouko342

Still waiting for the shipment to arrive, but I've read a lot about calibrating the Epson. I'll be writing a separate guide to calibrating it here when I'm done.


For those struggling with BTB, this article has been a great help for me in wrapping my head around the concept, as well as understanding what extended/expanded/limited mean.


Based on that, it looks like the correct settings are Epson at Expanded, as otherwise you won't get BTB.


If you have PS3, set it to YCbCr with Super-White on, and RGB set to limited. Super-white allows BTB, and setting RGB forces same black levels as calibrating with a video source (PS3 will _always_ output BD/DVD content in YCbCr space).


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still waiting for the shipment to arrive, but I've read a lot about calibrating the Epson. I'll be writing a separate guide to calibrating it here when I'm done.
> 
> 
> For those struggling with BTB, this article has been a great help for me in wrapping my head around the concept, as well as understanding what extended/expanded/limited mean.
> 
> 
> Based on that, it looks like the correct settings are Epson at Expanded, as otherwise you won't get BTB.
> 
> 
> If you have PS3, set it to YCbCr with Super-White on, and RGB set to limited. Super-white allows BTB, and setting RGB forces same black levels as calibrating with a video source (PS3 will always output BD/DVD content in YCbCr space).



I've always wondered about this..thanks!


----------



## mcnizzel

I have a replacement lamp for the 8350 for sale in the classifieds.

it is new never used and OEM from epson


check it out here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...do=ad&id=16851 


feel free to pm or make offers


cheers


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21468798
> 
> 
> For those struggling with BTB, this article has been a great help for me in wrapping my head around the concept, as well as understanding what extended/expanded/limited mean.



I actually was reading that article yesterday. From what I am seeing Setting to expanded and using the full or limited settings on the PS3 yield the exact same results. My only guess as to why there is no shift in the brightness and contrast settings is the the Epson recognizes the input and automatically adjust accordingly. Of course I'm going to have to test this theory with my cal equipment. If there truly is no shift then using expanded for either is acceptable and likely using normal would be too just as long as you calibrate accordingly.


By the way Epson did reply to my inquiry. Pretty much how I thought they would if I got a response but it seems more is going on here.



> Quote:
> Dear James,
> 
> 
> Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350.
> 
> 
> The HDMI video signal has color tone levels from 0 to 255.
> 
> 
> When you choose "Normal" mode, the PJ receives the signal color tone levels 16~235.
> 
> This setting is for DVD, TV and so on.
> 
> 
> When choose "Expanded" mode, the PJ receive the full range color tone 0~255 (full signal).
> 
> This setting is for a PC.
> 
> 
> - If you chose "Normal" and the black area becomes bright or pale, please select "Expanded".
> 
> - If you chose the "Expanded" and the black step is not clear, please select "Normal".
> 
> 
> Thank you again for contacting Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave S



I don't think anybody can argue that this is slightly wrong as Normal isn't limited to 16~235 but 16~255. I don't know how far up the line this response came from but I'm hesitant to waste my time trying to get more specifics from Epson.


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Based on that, it looks like the correct settings are Epson at Expanded, as otherwise you won't get BTB.



BTB does not exist on digital systems. Black is black and there is nothing below it. You do not have to be able to pass BTB to be able to calibrate. As long as level 17 on the calibration disks is set to just barely visible you are OK.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21472129
> 
> 
> BTB does not exist on digital systems. Black is black and there is nothing below it. You do not have to be able to pass BTB to be able to calibrate. As long as level 17 on the calibration disks is set to just barely visible you are OK.



I'm not sure what you mean by "BTB does not exist on digital systems." BDs are digital (duh) and include BTB, ie. they only have usable data from 16 onwards. If you send BD/DVD data to a system which does 0-255, it will crush blacks and they will look grey instead of black.


The article I linked to has a set of four images, and the bottom right corner shows what I'm talking about.


While it is possible to calibrate without BTB (PJ set to Normal), it's easier to calibrate accurately when you can see BTB, and scale it down just below visible (PJ set to Expanded).


Another problem of setting the PJ to Normal is that black levels will not be consistent with all sources. This is if you use a PS3 for gaming in addition to using it for BD/DVD playback, or use a stand-alone BD/DVD player - have to confirm when I get the PJ, though.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21465762
> 
> 
> I'm sending you a PM. I want you to check something out for me if you could.



Sent you a reply.


----------



## Steve_t1

Hi, sorry if this is in the wrong area, but I cant find anything relating to the new Epson TW-8000. DOes anyone have any tips on how to stop or reduce hot spotting with regards to the Epson projectors? I have just installed the TW-8000 and have a very noticable hot spot. I contacted the shop where I bought the screen and they said to look at the setting and brghtness.. Just thought I would ask the forums for any ideas.

Regards

Steve T


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21473134
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by "BTB does not exist on digital systems." BDs are digital (duh) and include BTB, ie. they only have usable data from 16 onwards. If you send BD/DVD data to a system which does 0-255, it will crush blacks and they will look grey instead of black.



Yeah, Blurays are encoded 16-235 nominally. They carry no info below black (16) but may carry info above 235.


But its the match between replay hardware and display device you're after. If the hardware outputs "normal" ie 16-235 your display should be set to that. If the hardware outputs "expanded" ie 0-255 then the display needs to be set the same. What you should not be doing is setting display 0-255 with source 16-235 just so you can tweak brightness to show BTB on a calibration disk. You'll know if you have it wrong because you will have to set brightness and contrast a long way from their neutral zero settings on the display device.


Also crushed blacks don't look grey, they just get lost (crushed) in black. If you set brightness too low you lose shadow detail (crushing black).


Just set level 17 in the cal disk to disappear, then bring it back until you can only just see it. Brightness will probably be close to "0"


I started out learning about this here in about 2004 when things were all still pretty analogue - vga connections to projector etc. I even built a break out adapter so I could look at the video signal on an oscilloscope with a calibration pattern running. My signature arose from all of those discussions.


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve_t1* /forum/post/21473489
> 
> 
> Hi, sorry if this is in the wrong area, but I cant find anything relating to the new Epson TW-8000. DOes anyone have any tips on how to stop or reduce hot spotting with regards to the Epson projectors? I have just installed the TW-8000 and have a very noticable hot spot. I contacted the shop where I bought the screen and they said to look at the setting and brghtness.. Just thought I would ask the forums for any ideas.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Steve T



Is it a high gain screen? If so what is it, and how high a gain?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21472129
> 
> 
> BTB does not exist on digital systems. Black is black and there is nothing below it. You do not have to be able to pass BTB to be able to calibrate. As long as level 17 on the calibration disks is set to just barely visible you are OK.



Whether your source is set to limited/standard/normal or full/enhanced/expanded, BTB is generally still present. While you're also right you don't need blacker than black to calibrate it certainly doesn't hurt and more often than not like I said it's present (everyone of my displays other than the Epson set to normal pass BTB when the source and display are set to limited/standard/normal etc.).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21473837
> 
> 
> Yeah, Blurays are encoded 16-235 nominally. They carry no info below black (16) but may carry info above 235.



Video encoded 16~235 still carries BTB and WTW its just not below 16 and above 235.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21473837
> 
> 
> But its the match between replay hardware and display device you're after. If the hardware outputs "normal" ie 16-235 your display should be set to that. If the hardware outputs "expanded" ie 0-255 then the display needs to be set the same. What you should not be doing is setting display 0-255 with source 16-235 just so you can tweak brightness to show BTB on a calibration disk.



Generally I would agree that you would always want to match source and display but in this instance it doesn't seem to affect anything negatively to use mismatched settings when it comes to the Epson. You would normally expect that if you set the source to full and the display to expanded and calibrated and then went and changed your source to limited that your brightness and contrast setting would shift and vice versa but that does not seem to be the case with the Epson. The best I can tell is the Epson recognizes the source levels and adjusts accordingly automatically. I don't see how this would negatively PQ but I'm going to do some measurements and see if anything gets messy in the middle and if not then there's doesn't seem to be a wrong combination, it's what ever gives you warm and fuzzies you just have to calibrate brightness and contrast accordingly.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21473837
> 
> 
> You'll know if you have it wrong because you will have to set brightness and contrast a long way from their neutral zero settings on the display device.



There is absolutely nothing wrong with straying far of a "neutral setting", the point of calibrating is to get it right and furthermore the manufactures calibration is generally so bad that it requires some extreme adjustments. That's just how the Epson is when you use the expanded setting whether you match the source or not.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21473837
> 
> 
> Yeah, Blurays are encoded 16-235 nominally. They carry no info below black (16) but may carry info above 235.
> 
> 
> But its the match between replay hardware and display device you're after. If the hardware outputs "normal" ie 16-235 your display should be set to that. If the hardware outputs "expanded" ie 0-255 then the display needs to be set the same. What you should not be doing is setting display 0-255 with source 16-235 just so you can tweak brightness to show BTB on a calibration disk. You'll know if you have it wrong because you will have to set brightness and contrast a long way from their neutral zero settings on the display device.
> 
> 
> Also crushed blacks don't look grey, they just get lost (crushed) in black. If you set brightness too low you lose shadow detail (crushing black).
> 
> 
> Just set level 17 in the cal disk to disappear, then bring it back until you can only just see it. Brightness will probably be close to "0"
> 
> 
> I started out learning about this here in about 2004 when things were all still pretty analogue - vga connections to projector etc. I even built a break out adapter so I could look at the video signal on an oscilloscope with a calibration pattern running. My signature arose from all of those discussions.



Thanks for the thorough response, I'm in full agreement with everything you said.


Nevertheless, I would still argue that getting BTB to show up is easier to calibrate than without it.


Droid6 had an interesting and surprising point about Epson possibly doing adjustments by itself.


I have a follow-up question to those with a PS3.


RGB set to Limited/Full in PS3 does not impact YCbCr output, no matter what you set it to, only RGB. Therefore, if you use your PS3 only to watch BDs and DVDs it doesn't really matter how you have Limited/Full set. If you use it for games only, you can calibrate with RGB set to Full, although I haven't found a definitive source showing a benefit from this with the Epson. Therefore I'd set the PS3 always to YCC, Superwhite on, RGB set to Limited, just to be safe, as it will create consistent and faithful reproduction, no matter what the source material is. Or is there a benefit from from setting RGB to Full for games?


This is my 2nd PJ, and things haven't really cleared up in the four years I last studied these things when I got my 1st PJ. It's incredible that there's no clear guide or even a solid consensus on how to get the best performance out of a system, and majority of people are still ignorant (not their fault). There are excellent threads in the calibration forum, but no top-level FAQ - one has to dig through numerous threads to get to the bottom of what BTB/WTW/Expanded/Limited/etc mean and how to set them, and the threads are often full of misguided posts.


In other news, my PJ is being delivered today







I'm going to spend the evening with it and my calibration puck!


----------



## slybarman

Droid6 pointed something out to me last night that I should have known, but did not. The projector stores separate calibration settings for each display resolution. The calibration settings have to be copied over for each one. I had only set the one resolution (1080p). I have now copied them over to 1080i and 720p, etc.


Thanks Droid, hopefully that helps someone else as well.


----------



## x1lightning

I just setup my 8350 last week and it looks great, other than i get a bright spot about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the screen when i am sitting directly in front of it, if i stand up the spot is gone, or if i sit off to one side or the other its gone.


I would really like to be able to sit directly in front of it, but the spot really bugs me.


the projector is hung on a vaulted ceiling about 15.5 feet from the wall at about 10.5 feet up, i am using the lens shift to bring the picture down to the correct height


and it is set to about 135 inches, i don't have a screen yet, i wanted to find what size worked best for my room before i ordered one


any ideas on what i can do about this?


----------



## slybarman

Sounds like a screen issue (hotspot), not a projector issue. Is it a high gain screen?


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *x1lightning* /forum/post/21475518
> 
> 
> I just setup my 8350 last week and it looks great, other than i get a bright spot about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the screen when i am sitting directly in front of it, if i stand up the spot is gone, or if i sit off to one side or the other its gone.



In simple terms: Sounds like you are seeing what is called a "hot spot". This happens when the surface you're projecting on is too "shiny" / reflective. What are you projecting on? Bare wall? If so, what kind of paint / finish is on it?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21475624
> 
> 
> Sounds like a screen issue (hotspot), not a projector issue. Is it a high gain screen?



he said no screen, sounds like a paint issue...


----------



## x1lightning

right now there is no screen, its just a white semi gloss paint wall


What kind of screen would fix the issue?


----------



## slybarman

Sorry, I missed that it was paint. As posted above, sounds like you have a shiny spot in the paint maybe. You could repaint the wall or use any regular (not high gain) screen.


----------



## x1lightning

so a 1.0 gain? does color of the screen make a diff in this situation? would white or grey be better to prevent the hot spot?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *x1lightning* /forum/post/21475687
> 
> 
> so a 1.0 gain? does color of the screen make a diff in this situation? would white or grey be better to prevent the hot spot?



It's not so much white or gray but whether or not the screen you get is susceptible to hot-spotting. I had an Elite Sableframe white screen that caused major hot-spotting but i've heard people swear by their cinegrey material. Now I have a Monoprice white screen without a hint of hot-spotting. Gain is similar, depending on the material you can get a higher gain screen with little or no hot-spotting or a low gain screen that does. You just have to do your research.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21475491
> 
> 
> Droid6 pointed something out to me last night that I should have known, but did not. The projector stores separate calibration settings for each display resolution. The calibration settings have to be copied over for each one. I had only set the one resolution (1080p). I have now copied them over to 1080i and 720p, etc.
> 
> 
> Thanks Droid, hopefully that helps someone else as well.



It does, thanks. I would have gone crazy figuring out what's going on.


Is there a way to copy the settings to all resolutions, or do I have to memorize them and do it manually?


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *x1lightning* /forum/post/21475644
> 
> 
> right now there is no screen, its just a white semi gloss paint wall



The semi-gloss part is most likely what's causing the issue. Any "shiny"-ish surface will have the effect that you describe.



> Quote:
> What kind of screen would fix the issue?



As a rule of thumb, i would say something with a moderate or so-called "unity" gain (1.3 or less). You should go check out the screens forum and search there for recommendations for the 8350. Also check out the DIY screen section if you're into that. Lots of talk about gray vs white and such.


----------



## JDKruger4

Hello all. Over the last week have read over most of this thread. I have a 12x21 light controlled room, where the seating/viewing runs the long direction. Currently I have a 59" Samsung D7000 plasma which I thought would be large enough, but find myself needing to pull a seat in front for games and movies are also small with seating at approximately 16'.


So now I'm thinking about going to a projector. Total newbie to projectors. Don't want to spend more than I could sell my plasma for so I was thinking about getting the 8350 as it seems to fit my needs for 40% games, 40% TV, and 20% movies. I am thinking of ceiling mounting at 17' 6", giving myself a 106" 16:9 screen. Calculators after bulb wear show I'd be in the 11-15 fc range with a 1.2 gain screen. Is this going to be sufficient for a relatively light controlled room (4 windows all with blinds and drapes)? How is the quality going to compare to the plasma? Willing to sacrifice some quality for size, but I don't want to take a huge hit. I'm a little worried about motion blur for games (Battlefield 3), is this an issue? Is there any disadvantage to operating with the zoom ~1.55x vs 1.00 other than a drop in brightness?


Alternatively I could ceiling mount at 11-12', but this is going to be in the air in the middle of the room, and just in front of the couch and may look awkward, so I thought I'd keep it behind. May need to do this for greater brightness.


My plan would be to construct my own fixed frame using Center Stage XD material, is 1.2 gain appropriate? I've read about the various surfaces for DIY screens and I'm not really sure what is best. Painting the wall is out of the question as it is not flat.


Thanks for any thoughts. Projectors are totally new to me so excuse my ignorance.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21475932
> 
> 
> It does, thanks. I would have gone crazy figuring out what's going on.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to copy the settings to all resolutions, or do I have to memorize them and do it manually?



Yes, save the desired settings to one of the memory slots and then load-from-memory for each input resolution.


----------



## jouko342

I was surprised to find that turning Epson Super White ON results in the inability to get BTB, no matter what I set my PS3 to. If I set it to OFF everything works fine.


So what's the point of Super White then?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21475980
> 
> 
> Yes, save the desired settings to one of the memory slots and then load-from-memory for each input resolution.



Perfect, thank you!


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *x1lightning* /forum/post/21475644
> 
> 
> right now there is no screen, its just a white semi gloss paint wall
> 
> 
> What kind of screen would fix the issue?



You need to repaint the wall with flat white paint, you don't want any shine to it. I learned that the hard way by using eggshell the first time.


IIRC, I used Glidden Ultra Pure White but had the guy at HD squirt a few shots of white colorant in the can as well. I think it whitens the paint further and makes it more solid. When you roll in on you need to pay careful attention to not getting any streaks from the edges of the roller, I think I use a microfiber roller to get the best results.


I used that painted wall (141" dia.) for my Studio Experience 20HD that is being replace with the 8350 which happens to be out for delivery as I write this ! It actually works quite well even though I didn't sand down the light texture first.


I probably would have stayed with the 20HD longer if it had HDCP even though its only 1080i, but there is no good work around for that stupid issue so on CL it goes.


Good luck.


----------



## slybarman

Droid - if you ever do a full color calibration for Dynamic mode (with ambient lighting) please post your numbers up. I use that mode for some sports, some kid shows and video games.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21476209
> 
> 
> Droid - if you ever do a full color calibration for Dynamic mode (with ambient lighting) please post your numbers up. I use that mode for some sports, some kid shows and video games.



I'll take a look at it the when I take some more measurements. If I remember correctly the greyscale calibration stays with each preset but I'll look again. What that would mean is there wouldn't be that could be calibrated but I really didn't play around with that too much so I may be wrong.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JDKruger4* /forum/post/21475950
> 
> 
> I'm a little worried about motion blur for games (Battlefield 3), is this an issue? Is there any disadvantage to operating with the zoom ~1.55x vs 1.00 other than a drop in brightness?



Just did a test run in BF3 on PS3, there's no motion blur at all, at least compared to Panasonic PT-AX200 which the Epson replaced.


I did notice an increase in input lag, but it could have been my net connection. I'll test it thoroughly over the weekend at the latest.


There's always a loss of quality with a zoom lens, but you will probably not see a difference in real life.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21476202
> 
> 
> You need to repaint the wall with flat white paint, you don't want any shine to it. I learned that the hard way by using eggshell the first time.
> 
> 
> IIRC, I used Glidden Ultra Pure White but had the guy at HD squirt a few shots of white colorant in the can as well. I think it whitens the paint further and makes it more solid. When you roll in on you need to pay careful attention to not getting any streaks from the edges of the roller, I think I use a microfiber roller to get the best results.
> 
> 
> I used that painted wall (141" dia.) for my Studio Experience 20HD that is being replace with the 8350 which happens to be out for delivery as I write this ! It actually works quite well even though I didn't sand down the light texture first.
> 
> 
> I probably would have stayed with the 20HD longer if it had HDCP even though its only 1080i, but there is no good work around for that stupid issue so on CL it goes.
> 
> 
> Good luck.



you can get a manual pull down 100 inch screen for under 100 at amazon
http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-PD-HD-72-...303324&sr=1-28 


i have the electric versions, it's fine

a little bright

no hot spots


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21476418
> 
> 
> you can get a manual pull down 100 inch screen for under 100 at amazon
> http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-PD-HD-72-...303324&sr=1-28
> 
> 
> i have the electric versions, it's fine
> 
> a little bright
> 
> no hot spots



That's too small !


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JDKruger4* /forum/post/21475950
> 
> 
> Hello all. Over the last week have read over most of this thread. I have a 12x21 light controlled room, where the seating/viewing runs the long direction. Currently I have a 59" Samsung D7000 plasma which I thought would be large enough, but find myself needing to pull a seat in front for games and movies are also small with seating at approximately 16'.
> 
> 
> So now I'm thinking about going to a projector. Total newbie to projectors. Don't want to spend more than I could sell my plasma for so I was thinking about getting the 8350 as it seems to fit my needs for 40% games, 40% TV, and 20% movies. I am thinking of ceiling mounting at 17' 6", giving myself a 106" 16:9 screen. Calculators after bulb wear show I'd be in the 11-15 fc range with a 1.2 gain screen. Is this going to be sufficient for a relatively light controlled room (4 windows all with blinds and drapes)? How is the quality going to compare to the plasma? Willing to sacrifice some quality for size, but I don't want to take a huge hit. I'm a little worried about motion blur for games (Battlefield 3), is this an issue? Is there any disadvantage to operating with the zoom ~1.55x vs 1.00 other than a drop in brightness?
> 
> 
> Alternatively I could ceiling mount at 11-12', but this is going to be in the air in the middle of the room, and just in front of the couch and may look awkward, so I thought I'd keep it behind. May need to do this for greater brightness.
> 
> 
> My plan would be to construct my own fixed frame using Center Stage XD material, is 1.2 gain appropriate? I've read about the various surfaces for DIY screens and I'm not really sure what is best. Painting the wall is out of the question as it is not flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any thoughts. Projectors are totally new to me so excuse my ignorance.



I have had the 8350 for over 13 months now and have played countless hours of Black Ops and have never seen any lag or blur....This projector is amazing and is one of my best purchases ever. It is pretty much like having a 100" LCD T.V. Epson customer service is also incredible. If you ever have a problem with your projector they will overnight you a new or refurbished one no questions asked with your free 2 year warranty. The new or refurbished projector they send you also comes with a new bulb installed. I had 1300 hours on my projector 2 months ago and there was a dust blob on the lens creating a white ball on my projection screen so they shipped me a new projector with a new bulb free.....So do not wait any longer and get this projector....


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21476520
> 
> 
> That's too small !



then buy a bigger one.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21476552
> 
> 
> I have had the 8350 for over 13 months now and have played countless hours of Black Ops and have never seen any lag or blur....This projector is amazing and is one of my best purchases ever. It is pretty much like having a 100" LCD T.V. Epson customer service is also incredible. If you ever have a problem with your projector they will overnight you a new or refurbished one no questions asked with your free 2 year warranty. The new or refurbished projector they send you also comes with a new bulb installed. I had 1300 hours on my projector 2 months ago and there was a dust blob on the lens creating a white ball on my projection screen so they shipped me a new projector with a new bulb free.....So do not wait any longer and get this projector....



any way you can get your L & R speaker off the floor and onto a speaker stand?


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21476582
> 
> 
> any way you can get your L & R speaker off the floor and onto a speaker stand?



They are not directly on the floor. They are on pieces of wood painted black. There is no other place i can put my fronts as there is no room available. My space is very limited and i did the best with what i had.


----------



## JDKruger4

Thanks for the response Lt.Aldo.


So next question: Sitting at 16' in a light controlled room what would be considered the best screen size? I want to go large, but I don't want to see any pixilation at all. I only have 96" horizontally to work with so 110" sounds like my largest option for 16:9. Was considering constant height 2.35 with panels for 16:9 but sounds like a bad idea considering my 16:9 would only be 80" then. I'm worried about overflow light on 2.35 format stuff though.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JDKruger4* /forum/post/21476602
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response Lt.Aldo.
> 
> 
> So next question: Sitting at 16' in a light controlled room what would be considered the best screen size? I want to go large, but I don't want to see any pixilation at all. I only have 96" horizontally to work with so 110" sounds like my largest option for 16:9. Was considering constant height 2.35 with panels for 16:9 but sounds like a bad idea considering my 16:9 would only be 80" then. I'm worried about overflow light on 2.35 format stuff though.



Check out the Monoprice multi-format screen, it's a native 16:9 screen that masks to 2.35:1. It's the screen I have and it comes in 106" and 120". I sit about 16' back most of the time also and I highly recommend going 120" if you can.


----------



## x1lightning

why do you need to mask the upper and lower if you are playing the other format? do you even notice it the unused screen?


----------



## JDKruger4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *x1lightning* /forum/post/21476749
> 
> 
> why do you need to mask the upper and lower if you are playing the other format? do you even notice it the unused screen?



That's kinda what I'm getting at. How much do you notice the 'black bar' area on a screen? Unfortunately I've never had the opportunity to see it.


Anyone with experience with the Center Stage XD material with the 8350? Seems like a good fit, will custom cut for DIYers and would only run ~$100 for 100" screen. http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp


----------



## slybarman

You would never pay any notice to the letterbox black bars . . . UNTIL . . . you have used a screen WITH masking. Then, it is unlikely you would ever want to go back. It really does kick the picture up to the next level. I doubt I will ever own a screen without some kind of masking system again.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21477165
> 
> 
> You would never pay any notice to the letterbox black bars . . . UNTIL . . . you have used a screen WITH masking. Then, it is unlikely you would ever want to go back. It really does kick the picture up to the next level. I doubt I will ever own a screen without some kind of masking system again.



Exactly, I never liked not having a masking system before I had one but now that I have one I'll never own a screen without one ever again.


----------



## JDKruger4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21476724
> 
> 
> Check out the Monoprice multi-format screen, it's a native 16:9 screen that masks to 2.35:1. It's the screen I have and it comes in 106" and 120". I sit about 16' back most of the time also and I highly recommend going 120" if you can.



Droid, I like the Monoprice multi-format you suggested. However I've been warned off grey screens and I'm worried about my brightness with a gain of only 0.8.


Since I am horizontally constrained, having vertical masking is certainly the way to go for me (not to mention not having to mess with the zoom settings). Looking at Monoprice's website I couldn't get a feel for the masking mechanism. I'm guessing there are horizontal rods that pull cloth from behind the border to the set points, is there a spring loaded roller that maintains some tension on the excess cloth? Or is it a solid felt covered board that slides recessed into the frame? Could you describe/post a picture? I should probly post this in the screen DIY section, but you guys seem knowledgeable here and there is already some dialogue. I appreciate the advice!


----------



## slybarman

Basically a pair of joined roller blinds.


----------



## jmoakk

What should I set my HDMI video range to? It's currently set to "normal" WTW does not clip, BTB does clip from 16 and below. Should I use the "extended" mode? I'm not sure what my bluray player is currently set to but my guess would be "normal"


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk* /forum/post/21477556
> 
> 
> What should I set my HDMI video range to? It's currently set to "normal" WTW does not clip, BTB does clip from 16 and below. Should I use the "extended" mode? I'm not sure what my bluray player is currently set to but my guess would be "normal"



With Extended you should see BTB if you crank Brightness up enough and the rest of the chain supports it, so I use Extended.


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The semi-gloss part is most likely what's causing the issue. Any "shiny"-ish surface will have the effect that you describe.
> 
> 
> As a rule of thumb, i would say something with a moderate or so-called "unity" gain (1.3 or less). You should go check out the screens forum and search there for recommendations for the 8350. Also check out the DIY screen section if you're into that. Lots of talk about gray vs white and such.



Seriously, check out the diy screen section over at Home Theater Shack. They are way better than here on Avs. They have properly researched and calibrated diy screen formulas and are very friendly.


----------



## hallifallen

Hi guys


How does this projector do when it's used to watch sports like football and such?


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hallifallen* /forum/post/21478026
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> How does this projector do when it's used to watch sports like football and such?



I watch all my sports on mine and love it....Can't wait for this Saturday's Pats Denver game.......GO PATRIOTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## jouko342

For those interested, my first calibration run is here on the Calibration subforum.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21478281
> 
> 
> I watch all my sports on mine and love it....Can't wait for this Saturday's Pats Denver game.......GO PATRIOTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!



Yep, projector is amazing for sports. I get to test drive my 8350 with UFC Rio on Saturday


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21478281
> 
> 
> I watch all my sports on mine and love it....Can't wait for this Saturday's Pats Denver game.......GO PATRIOTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!




Only thing wrong with that is the Pats. Go ANY team playing the Pats!







Oh, I guess I'll admit that EVEN the Pats look good in HD. Go Broncos!










Regards,


RTROSE


Well at least your team MADE the playoffs!


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hallifallen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> How does this projector do when it's used to watch sports like football and such?



Watching football with this projector on 120 inch screen is CRAZY!!! Love it. can't wait for the Super Bowl party!


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE* /forum/post/21479227
> 
> 
> Oh, I guess I'll admit that EVEN the Pats look good in HD.



You are going to find out just how good they look soon enough. Not trying to start anything, Titans fan myself but I am rooting Pats this Saturday on my 8350. The magic should end right there.


----------



## hallifallen

Ok thanks guys


I just ordered a 8350, very excited. Now I just have to wait for it to get to Iceland


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/21480050
> 
> 
> You are going to find out just how good they look soon enough. Not trying to start anything, Titans fan myself but I am rooting Pats this Saturday on my 8350. The magic should end right there.



Every playoff game is a nerve racking event for a Pats fan...You never know which team is going to show up







I am curious as to which mode you guys use on your 8350.... I use Dynamic with most everything set to "0"..... I have tried the other picture modes but i do not like them.... If have at 7500K with a skin tone set at 4....Brightness set at -5 the next 2 color levels are set at 0....I turned up the sharpness because when i lower it the picture becomes at little fuzzy. My auto iris is set to normal.....I have tinkered with this for 13 months that i have had the 8350 and this seems to look the best for me....I watched Smokin Aces yesterday and the picture and audio quality was awesome.....I have so many movies in my collection to watch...I try to squeeze in 2-3 movies a week....Here are a couple pictures of my blu-ray collection and my concession stand....


----------



## Gertjan

So i was wondering - would it be possible to mod this projector with a quieter fan?


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gertjan* /forum/post/21481320
> 
> 
> So i was wondering - would it be possible to mod this projector with a quieter fan?



This projector is super quite as it is......no need to mod it


----------



## Guitarstar

As ya'll already know, this projector is the bomb !


I'm upgrading from an older Boxlight 20HD which doesn't have HDCP support. Now I can run everything through the HDMI port and as a result my Blu-ray, cable box, and Xbox all look fantasic just using the prepackaged settings. I've ordered the adaptor for my Chief ceiling mount (SLB-026) and should have it properly installed within a week. Now I'll have to do some research on audio recievers with HDMI so I can switch from one source to another without any fuss. If anyone knows of a good make/model that won't break the bank please let me know.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Are you sure about which model you want to order? Have you read this post ?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21482251
> 
> 
> As you ya'll already know, this projector is the bomb !
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading from an older Boxlight 20HD which doesn't have HDCP support. Now I can run everything through the HDMI port and as a result my Blu-ray, cable box, and Xbox all look fantasic just using the prepackaged settings. I've ordered the adaptor for my Chief ceiling mount (SLB-026) and should have it properly installed within a week. Now I'll have to do some research on audio recievers with HDMI so I can switch from one source to another without any fuss. If anyone knows of a good make/model that won't break the bank please let me know.



what adapter you getting?

i bought the onkyo 609 for a receiver

no issues

379 from newegg a couple months ago

other people are getting the RC360 which is similar but cheaper.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21482251
> 
> 
> As you ya'll already know, this projector is the bomb !
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading from an older Boxlight 20HD which doesn't have HDCP support. Now I can run everything through the HDMI port and as a result my Blu-ray, cable box, and Xbox all look fantasic just using the prepackaged settings. I've ordered the adaptor for my Chief ceiling mount (SLB-026) and should have it properly installed within a week. Now I'll have to do some research on audio recievers with HDMI so I can switch from one source to another without any fuss. If anyone knows of a good make/model that won't break the bank please let me know.



what adapter you getting?

i bought the onkyo 609 for a receiver

no issues

379 from newegg a couple months ago

other people are getting the RC360 which is similar but cheaper.


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck* /forum/post/21482287
> 
> 
> Are you sure about which model you want to order? Have you read this post ?



Yes, according to Chief. I already have the ceiling mount and the gimble part I just needed the plate the mates to the projector (SLB-026). My understanding is that the RPA-168 contains all of the parts including the plate at a much higher price. correct me if I'm wrong !


Update :


I received the SLB-026 bracket today, and guess what, it doesn't fit the projector. Crap! Anyhoo, not to be defeated, I'm cobbing together my own mounting plate using some thick plexiglass and some misc. hardware so I can have it up tomorrow for the 3 day weekend. Should have done that in the first place! So just to be clear, the SLB-026 plate doesn't mate to the Epson Home Cinema 8350 projector even though the guy at Chief assured me it would.


Update 2 :


I received an email back from Chief and he appologized for the mix up, the SLB-026 bracket is for the 8350i not the Home Cinema 8350, he said the one I need is the SLB-168, order at your own risk.


----------



## JDKruger4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21482335
> 
> 
> what adapter you getting?
> 
> i bought the onkyo 609 for a receiver
> 
> no issues
> 
> 379 from newegg a couple months ago
> 
> other people are getting the RC360 which is similar but cheaper.



Be aware that those Onkyo models have absurdly high power consumption when operating in pass-through mode. This has been discussed on AVS. I had an Onkyo for ~10 years and loved it, think they QC has gone down a bit though.


I just recently got a Pioneer VSK 1021K, good receiver with lots of options video processing is bad but if you don't like running video processing (like me) its a moot point. Can be found for about $300 online.


A friend recently got a Yamaha A-810. IMO Yamaha makes the best mid-low level receivers right now. Could not find a weakness with the thing. But you won't find it under $500....


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JDKruger4* /forum/post/21482382
> 
> 
> Be aware that those Onkyo models have absurdly high power consumption when operating in pass-through mode. This has been discussed on AVS. I had an Onkyo for ~10 years and loved it, think they QC has gone down a bit though.
> 
> 
> I just recently got a Pioneer VSK 1021K, good receiver with lots of options video processing is bad but if you don't like running video processing (like me) its a moot point. Can be found for about $300 online.
> 
> 
> A friend recently got a Yamaha A-810. IMO Yamaha makes the best mid-low level receivers right now. Could not find a weakness with the thing. But you won't find it under $500....



i thought someone measured that in that thread and said it doesn't...

but i am not using that feature...


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21481478
> 
> 
> This projector is super quite as it is......no need to mod it



I have one, and it's close enough to the seating position that the fan noise is bothering me in Dynamic / Living Room mode, and was just wondering if anybody knows anything about the fans in it.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hallifallen* /forum/post/21478026
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> How does this projector do when it's used to watch sports like football and such?



You want to know how it does in sports, take a look at some screenies I have saved in my thread showing last weeks NFC Wildcard.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21461092


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21480910
> 
> 
> Every playoff game is a nerve racking event for a Pats fan...You never know which team is going to show up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am curious as to which mode you guys use on your 8350.... I use Dynamic with most everything set to "0"..... I have tried the other picture modes but i do not like them.... If have at 7500K with a skin tone set at 4....Brightness set at -5 the next 2 color levels are set at 0....I turned up the sharpness because when i lower it the picture becomes at little fuzzy. My auto iris is set to normal.....I have tinkered with this for 13 months that i have had the 8350 and this seems to look the best for me....I watched Smokin Aces yesterday and the picture and audio quality was awesome.....I have so many movies in my collection to watch...I try to squeeze in 2-3 movies a week....Here are a couple pictures of my blu-ray collection and my concession stand....



Loving the concessions idea. I already had an itch for a popcorn machine, but seeing your pics, I know I need to do something similar...go buy $60 worth of candy and treats and I should have a nice selection for my guests. Although I have a tough time getting guests over to the house as they are all too busy boozin. Oh well there loss.


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21483446
> 
> 
> Loving the concessions idea. I already had an itch for a popcorn machine, but seeing your pics, I know I need to do something similar...go buy $60 worth of candy and treats and I should have a nice selection for my guests. Although I have a tough time getting guests over to the house as they are all too busy boozin. Oh well there loss.



Then stock an open bar instead


----------



## Jimbo85281

Does anyone think this projector would work in a partially light controlled living room with a 17' throw? I need enough light to drive a 120" screen during the day with some light coming in.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21483560
> 
> 
> Then stock an open bar instead



There ya go. I have a full sized fridge in my man town.


As to the previous question about what settings for sports watching, I usually use Living Room unless I am watching through the storm door while grilling in the day time. In that case I go dynamic and that is the only time I use that. I never go batcave for football watching so there is always some light be it natural or some that I have on. I have also found that not all carriers have a good signal, and I can even spot inferior cameras from the different ones used during a game at times which I find a bit odd. Then I find myself wishing they would stop going to that camera.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There ya go. I have a full sized fridge in my man town.
> 
> 
> As to the previous question about what settings for sports watching, I usually use Living Room unless I am watching through the storm door while grilling in the day time. In that case I go dynamic and that is the only time I use that. I never go batcave for football watching so there is always some light be it natural or some that I have on. I have also found that not all carriers have a good signal, and I can even spot inferior cameras from the different ones used during a game at times which I find a bit odd. Then I find myself wishing they would stop going to that camera.



I'm with you, I can definitely tell which companies skimped on the HD cameras...not all HD channels/cameras are created equal.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jimbo85281* /forum/post/21484144
> 
> 
> Does anyone think this projector would work in a partially light controlled living room with a 17' throw? I need enough light to drive a 120" screen during the day with some light coming in.



If the Epson Calculator says you can go 120in. diag. from 17 ft., then that part is ok.


You have to at least "try" to control the light with blinds or what not. However, by no means does it have to be dark in the room.


We occasionally use ours during the day instead of the plasma. We just run it on one of the brighter picture modes. It's fine for sports and normal TV watching. Sure, the blacks are washed out ... but you can tell it's black. On the Harmony, I setup 3 presets ... Day, Dusk and Night.


It's hard to say how bright my room is ... and that's also why it's hard to definitively answer your question because you don't really say. I would say ours is bright enough to read a small-print book.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jimbo85281* /forum/post/21484144
> 
> 
> Does anyone think this projector would work in a partially light controlled living room with a 17' throw? I need enough light to drive a 120" screen during the day with some light coming in.



I think you may be disappointed with the light output. 120" from 17' in a room that is not well light-controlled is asking a lot. I had 120" from 16' and recently moved the projector up to 13' for better light output. It will be fine initially, but remember that the bulb dims over the life of the bulb.


----------



## Jimbo85281




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21484719
> 
> 
> If the Epson Calculator says you can go 120in. diag. from 17 ft., then that part is ok.
> 
> 
> You have to at least "try" to control the light with blinds or what not. However, by no means does it have to be dark in the room.
> 
> 
> We occasionally use ours during the day instead of the plasma. We just run it on one of the brighter picture modes. It's fine for sports and normal TV watching. Sure, the blacks are washed out ... but you can tell it's black. On the Harmony, I setup 3 presets ... Day, Dusk and Night.
> 
> 
> It's hard to say how bright my room is ... and that's also why it's hard to definitively answer your question because you don't really say. I would say ours is bright enough to read a small-print book.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21484871
> 
> 
> I think you may be disappointed with the light output. 120" from 17' in a room that is not well light-controlled is asking a lot. I had 120" from 16' and recently moved the projector up to 13' for better light output. It will be fine initially, but remember that the bulb dims over the life of the bulb.





I would say that at the brightest (with my plantation shutters closed), it is very easy for me to read small text on a page. There wouldn't be any lights hitting the screen directly of course.


I'm thinking about going with the Panasonic AR100u which is 2800 lumens but I also wanted to seriously consider the 8350 as the night time performance will likely be better. Thanks for the input!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jimbo85281* /forum/post/21485325
> 
> 
> I would say that at the brightest (with my plantation shutters closed), it is very easy for me to read small text on a page. There wouldn't be any lights hitting the screen directly of course.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about going with the Panasonic AR100u which is 2800 lumens but I also wanted to seriously consider the 8350 as the night time performance will likely be better. Thanks for the input!



I don't have a light meter, but if you can think of another way to measure light, I'll try to help you out.


Probably obvious, but my main home theater is a multi-use room (our living room or "great room"). Open design ... I even have a ceiling fan to contend with.


About lumens... I think the 8350 is 2000 lumens. However, I only run mine on Eco Mode (lower light output). I tested it and it does get brighter ... but I don't run it at full output. 2800 lumens ... man, that might be hotter than usual and maybe a little noisy.


----------



## slybarman

In a typical color calibrated mode for decent movie watching, we are only getting 500ish lumens. If all he wants to do is watch sports and sitcoms and doesn't care about color rendering, etc then sure he can blast 2000 lumens is Dynamic mode and he will be fine. If he wants to watch movies and have them look cinema quality, then no.


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21482251
> 
> 
> As ya'll already know, this projector is the bomb !
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading from an older Boxlight 20HD which doesn't have HDCP support. Now I can run everything through the HDMI port and as a result my Blu-ray, cable box, and Xbox all look fantasic just using the prepackaged settings. I've ordered the adaptor for my Chief ceiling mount (SLB-026) and should have it properly installed within a week. Now I'll have to do some research on audio recievers with HDMI so I can switch from one source to another without any fuss. If anyone knows of a good make/model that won't break the bank please let me know.




some nice Marantz's out there at reasonable prices...look for something that doesn't get too hot such as Onkyos and Pioneers.....Yamaha's are a good choice too

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_642SR50...rantz+receiver


----------



## Ginchy

ok guys been reading this thread over the last week and i still am a little lost on throw distance for my needs. im about to buy one of these off amazon to replace my optoma hd65. i have a homemade 131" screen with a gain of about 1.1-1.2. my problem is i want to make it as bright as possible therefore i want to be in the center of the zoom range. seating is at 19' back and thats about the limit of the room. my projector now is at 15'7" ceiling mounted (new one will be too) so where should i put the new one distance wise? thanks in advance for any help and just know i did a **** ton of research before asking this


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ginchy* /forum/post/21487046
> 
> 
> ok guys been reading this thread over the last week and i still am a little lost on throw distance for my needs. im about to buy one of these off amazon to replace my optoma hd65. i have a homemade 131" screen with a gain of about 1.1-1.2. my problem is i want to make it as bright as possible therefore i want to be in the center of the zoom range. seating is at 19' back and thats about the limit of the room. my projector now is at 15'7" ceiling mounted (new one will be too) so where should i put the new one distance wise? thanks in advance for any help and just know i did a **** ton of research before asking this



So I'm confused, you both state a distance and ask for one in the same sentence?????

my projector now is at 15'7" ceiling mounted (new one will be too) so where should i put the new one
Have you used the throw calculator on the Epson site? I am at about 18' for a 106" wite (1ish)screen in a light controlled room, slightly off center to the left and about 15 degrees up off center. No problems whatsoever


----------



## mekkerl

Can someone share what their settings are for watching sports? I remember reading somewhere to make sure the progressive scan is off for fast moving content. Is this true?


Any special color settings or the like?


----------



## gene9p

I am using the one's posted by DROID 6......they work just fine for movies and sports


----------



## Ginchy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21487135
> 
> 
> So I'm confused, you both state a distance and ask for one in the same sentence?????
> 
> my projector now is at 15'7"*ceiling mounted (new one will be too)* so where should i put the new one
> Have you used the throw calculator on the Epson site? I am at about 18' for a 106" wite (1ish)screen in a light controlled room, slightly off center to the left and about 15 degrees up off center. No problems whatsoever



bolded part goes together. i meant the new projector will be ceiling mounted







i forgot a comma so i can see where it would be confusing. ive used every calculator i know of but reading this thread has confused me lol. guitar man says keep it as close as possible for brightness, someone else said keep it in the middle of the zoom range for max brightness so im confused


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ginchy* /forum/post/21489788
> 
> 
> bolded part goes together. i meant the new projector will be ceiling mounted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i forgot a comma so i can see where it would be confusing. ive used every calculator i know of but reading this thread has confused me lol. guitar man says keep it as close as possible for brightness, someone else said keep it in the middle of the zoom range for max brightness so im confused



I don't think you will have any brightness issues...


----------



## thatgameguy

Anyone have any problems with the image going in and out of focus constantly with AVI files? I have the Projector about 10 or 11 feet away and connected to my computer through an DVI-HDMI cable. When I watch divx files most times it will focus in and out. It doesn't do it for Xbox games or Blu-rays through my PS3. Only divx files. I'm out of my Amazon 30 day return but may try to squeeze in a return if no one else has ever had the problem.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21490100
> 
> 
> Anyone have any problems with the image going in and out of focus constantly with AVI files? I have the Projector about 10 or 11 feet away and connected to my computer through an DVI-HDMI cable. When I watch divx files most times it will focus in and out. It doesn't do it for Xbox games or Blu-rays through my PS3. Only divx files. I'm out of my Amazon 30 day return but may try to squeeze in a return if no one else has ever had the problem.



Are you sure it's actually focus that's the issue, not blurring? There's no motor in the focus, so it shouldn't be the PJ unless there's something _really_ wrong with it. Since it doesn't do it with Xbox or PS3, it's most likely the files themselves.


----------



## thatgameguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21490650
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's actually focus that's the issue, not blurring? There's no motor in the focus, so it shouldn't be the PJ unless there's something _really_ wrong with it. Since it doesn't do it with Xbox or PS3, it's most likely the files themselves.



That's what I thought but when I watch them on a 42 inch LCD TV they are fine. Maybe it's smaller that I don't notice it but it seems like it is every file from a ton of different sources. And yeah, it's the focus for sure or at least I really think it is...... but could be blurring.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21490100
> 
> 
> Anyone have any problems with the image going in and out of focus constantly with AVI files? I have the Projector about 10 or 11 feet away and connected to my computer through an DVI-HDMI cable. When I watch divx files most times it will focus in and out. It doesn't do it for Xbox games or Blu-rays through my PS3. Only divx files. I'm out of my Amazon 30 day return but may try to squeeze in a return if no one else has ever had the problem.



Well, I haven't noticed bluring but sure ... they look more pixelated. Nothing is broken.


It's just that they are low resolution and crunched down to barely acceptable quality to be shown on smaller computers monitors.


Run MediaInfo on them to see what is really inside.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21490733
> 
> 
> That's what I thought but when I watch them on a 42 inch LCD TV they are fine. Maybe it's smaller that I don't notice it but it seems like it is every file from a ton of different sources. And yeah, it's the focus for sure or at least I really think it is...... but could be blurring.



Echoing Tesla, if they are files downloaded from the internet, they are possibly just crappy, but not enough to show up on a smaller screen. Poorly ripped content compressed to fit in a small file often breaks up in action scenes when the bitrate can't keep up with it.


Try to download a similar file but which has a very high bitrate (divide file size by length). That's not a perfect way to check it due to variable bitrate and constant quality, but if you find a high bitrate file that doesn't have the focus issue it's probably the files which are to blame.


----------



## rakstr

OK, I just had a near death experience!!! Went upstairs to make sure I was ready for some Football, turned on the PJ and got an error about a malfunction with the auto iris, power down and call an Epson dealer. Sorry, I know I should have copied down the exact error but I did not. I used the remote and pressed power down, which took a couple tries and then the fan went into turbo exhaust mode. I unplugged the PJ, let it sit a couple minutes, and then plugged it back in. Powered it up and all is well.


I have auto iris set to off, I run eco-mode, and my theater room stays about 65 degrees when not in use. I've got about 50 hours on the lamp and was using it just last night for a movie.


Should I be concerned or is this "just one of those things" like a random blue screen???????


----------



## slybarman

Sounds like one of those things where you just have to wait to see if it happens again. Make sure Epson puts a record of it in their system for warranty purposes.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21492107
> 
> 
> Sounds like one of those things where you just have to wait to see if it happens again. Make sure Epson puts a record of it in their system for warranty purposes.



So your suggestion is to call them regardless???


----------



## thatgameguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21491009
> 
> 
> Well, I haven't noticed bluring but sure ... they look more pixelated. Nothing is broken.
> 
> 
> It's just that they are low resolution and crunched down to barely acceptable quality to be shown on smaller computers monitors.
> 
> 
> Run MediaInfo on them to see what is really inside.



I can tell the bad quality and the pixels but mine looks like someone is turning the knob on the lens just a tiny bit out of focus then turning it back to normal about ever 10 seconds. I want to keep telling myself it is just the file but it is from every file downloaded from a bunch of different sources.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21492030
> 
> 
> OK, I just had a near death experience!!! Went upstairs to make sure I was ready for some Football, turned on the PJ and got an error about a malfunction with the auto iris, power down and call an Epson dealer. Sorry, I know I should have copied down the exact error but I did not. I used the remote and pressed power down, which took a couple tries and then the fan went into turbo exhaust mode. I unplugged the PJ, let it sit a couple minutes, and then plugged it back in. Powered it up and all is well.
> 
> 
> I have auto iris set to off, I run eco-mode, and my theater room stays about 65 degrees when not in use. I've got about 50 hours on the lamp and was using it just last night for a movie.
> 
> 
> Should I be concerned or is this "just one of those things" like a random blue screen???????



I got this once but turned on the PJ with the lens cap on which I assumed why I got the error but the exact same thing happened to me at around the same amount of lamp time. I've since doubled the amount of hours on my lamp and all is well except for the issue I was writing about but not sure if that started before or after the error.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So your suggestion is to call them regardless???



I would want it noted just in case it doesn't happen again until after the warranty expires. I would expect them to take care of it because it happened the first time when it was under warranty.


----------



## srauly

Guys, I just picked one of the up from Best Buy. Got it home, unboxed it, and the unit didn't feel particularly cold from the car ride here in CT, so rather than wait an hour or two for it to fully acclimate to room temperature, I decided to fire it up. So it turns on, the fan starts going, and then the red 'temp' light starts flashing and the fan kicks into higher speed, but there's no light coming out of the projector at all. After another 20 secs (not sure, I didn't time it), it shuts down completely.


I'm going to wait an hour or so and try again, but I think I got a lemon. Was having friends over at 4pm to watch the playoffs and this doesn't bode well. Still have my Epson 3010, but was hoping to get the 8350 mounted in my old Panasonic AE700U's ceiling mount in time for the game, because my 3010 is on a table in front of the front row seats.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21492412
> 
> 
> I would want it noted just in case it doesn't happen again until after the warranty expires. I would expect them to take care of it because it happened the first time when it was under warranty.



Created a ticket, they were awesome. He said even if it doesn't happen again, if I don't feel right about the incident to call back and they'll ship out a replacement (which I understand will be a refurb and why I'm not inclined to do so at this time).


Curious though, what do they do about bulb when they replace things? Do you keep your bulb before shipping, do they send a new one, do they try to match the hours? Not trying to scam them, trying to make sure if I swapped, I'm not getting a replacement with 100's of hours on the bulb when I have less than 50.


----------



## slybarman

You do not keep the bulb, but I am not sure if the refurbs have new or used bulbs in them. I had bad luck with QC on the refurbs and they eventually sent me a new unit.


----------



## Ginchy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21492613
> 
> 
> You do not keep the bulb, but I am not sure if the refurbs have new or used bulbs in them. I had bad luck with QC on the refurbs and they eventually sent me a new unit.



lol you really think they would send out a USED bulb with remans considering how good their customer service is? this is a rhetorical question by the way.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21492146
> 
> 
> I can tell the bad quality and the pixels but mine looks like someone is turning the knob on the lens just a tiny bit out of focus then turning it back to normal about ever 10 seconds. I want to keep telling myself it is just the file but it is from every file downloaded from a bunch of different sources.



Sounds like the video files are at issue. To put it simply, modern codecs use keyframes every once in a while which are less compressed, and compute following frames (partly) based on the previous keyframe. Keyframes are not necessarily (or even usually) evenly in the video file, but between different shots. What you are describing sounds like the file has been highly compressed with too few keyframes.


Again, find a file which is known to be good and see if you get it with that file.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ginchy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> lol you really think they would send out a USED bulb with remans considering how good their customer service is? this is a rhetorical question by the way.



QC on the refurbs is poor, so it wouldn't really surprise me if they did.


----------



## Peterose2002

Anybody have any issues with the trigger out feature?


----------



## Guitarstar

Hi all,


Hey, I got my PJ mounted to the ceiling today and started playing with the settings a bit using my 1080i cable box. I found that I like the cooler tones of the Living Room or Cinema modes better than Natural mode. With Natural the picture especially in the darker areas seem to have a greenish cast to them which I don't care for. I actually perfer a cooler bluish tone myself. I tried adjusting the tint and messing with the RGB color settings and some of the other adjustments but they don't do much from what I can tell.


Is there any way to adjust the overall tone of Natural to be closer to that of Living Room or Cinema ? Is this the way everyone elses 8350 is ?


Thanks for any help.


----------



## hemogoblin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21492464
> 
> 
> I'd much rather watch a great movie in B&W at 240 lines of resolution than a lousy movie in 1080p with lossless audio.



Just had to say, thats the best sig ever.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21493991
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Hey, I got my PJ mounted to the ceiling today and started playing with the settings a bit using my 1080i cable box. I found that I like the cooler tones of the Living Room or Cinema modes better than Natural mode. With Natural the picture especially in the darker areas seem to have a greenish cast to them which I don't care for. I actually perfer a cooler bluish tone myself. I tried adjusting the tint and messing with the RGB color settings and some of the other adjustments but they don't do much from what I can tell.
> 
> 
> Is there any way to adjust the overall tone of Natural to be closer to that of Living Room or Cinema ? Is this the way everyone elses 8350 is ?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.



Here's what I'm using for my calibration: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=6147


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/21494153
> 
> 
> Just had to say, thats the best sig ever.



Thanks. And you're the first one to comment on it (I think I've had that sig for at least 7 months).


No one provided any suggestions regarding the problems I posted about earlier (flashing red temp light), but I do have an update to give...I tried it again an hour or two later and still had the same problem. Tried it again another 30 minutes later, same problem. Was all ready to box it up and return it to the local Best Buy and I decided to unplug it from my surge protector and plug it into the outlet directly and try it again. Not sure if that was the difference, but it started it up fine this time. PQ looked similar to my 3010 (not as bright, but still very good), so my hope was to scramble and get it mounted to my ceiling mount in time to watch my 49ers. Well, I then ran into my next snag...the mount screw threads were 12" apart, and my existing ceiling mount isn't that wide (prob 10"-wide max screw holes). Doh!


Long story short...we watched my 49ers win (yea!) and NE win (my friends were fans of them...they won...but it was too one-sided for me to get excited about watching it), on my 8+ year old Panny AE700U. An interesting side-note is that I gained a newfound appreciation for my AE700U. It's only 720p and it's not quite as bright as I'd like it to be, but the PQ is still very watchable (even after seeing what the 3010 and 8350 have to offer), and the added softness (due to the 720p resolution, I'm guessing) makes everything look "smoother". That said, I'll still likely proceed forward with an upgrade, though I'm still not certain which projector it will be (I'm also considering a Panasonic AR100U).


----------



## rrestate

I bought mine yesterday from a local bestbuy. How do I check the lamp hours? I used it for a few hours but when I go to INFO it still shows 0H???

I did not get the English manual with this and I am suspecting if I did not get a brand new one which is what I paid for!


Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrestate* /forum/post/21495534
> 
> 
> I bought mine yesterday from a local bestbuy. How do I check the lamp hours? I used it for a few hours but when I go to INFO it still shows 0H???
> 
> I did not get the English manual with this and I am suspecting if I did not get a brand new one which is what I paid for!
> 
> 
> Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.



i think the lamp hours counter starts counting once u reach 10 hours

mine came with both spanish and English manual


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrestate* /forum/post/21495534
> 
> 
> I bought mine yesterday from a local bestbuy. How do I check the lamp hours? I used it for a few hours but when I go to INFO it still shows 0H???
> 
> I did not get the English manual with this and I am suspecting if I did not get a brand new one which is what I paid for!
> 
> 
> Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.



On the DVD in the box, RTFM page 56







OR
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p.../plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrestate* /forum/post/21495534
> 
> 
> I bought mine yesterday from a local bestbuy. How do I check the lamp hours? I used it for a few hours but when I go to INFO it still shows 0H???
> 
> I did not get the English manual with this and I am suspecting if I did not get a brand new one which is what I paid for!
> 
> 
> Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.



It starts running at 10 hours, it's so they can test it functions without it looking like it's used.


----------



## jpolachak

I just wanted to post again how happy I am with my 8350. I bought mine in November of 2010. I just called Epson because I noticed my projector was not as bright as normal. I normally watch TV on it during the day and I use the living room mode. However, the last month or two on occasion I had to put it in dynamic mode. So I called Epson Tech support I told them it just wasn't as bright. I also told them my bulb had 2341 hours on it. Then they sent me a new bulb overnight. With no hassle. What a great customer service experience. Now with a new bulb I have it in cinema mode during the day and its still brighter than it was before in living room mode.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Just wanted to stop in for a minute...


Lovin' my 8350 more and more. Coming up on 1 year! The lamp has well over 2K hrs and I only read 5 or so fL (eco mode, with an ND 2 filter) before clipping white, but it seems fine in my cave!


Early on, I had a few struggles and WTF moments. My two biggest suggestions are:


Do not underestimate the power of the Screen. I had a cheapo vinyl thing that was bundled with the proj. It just plain sucked, but I lived with it until I accepted that nothing I did with the 8350 was going to elevate the image above "that's it?"


Picked up a 4x8 foot sheet of matte Formica. Better, but it had a lot of sheen which created hot spotting, and a fine pebble texture which created a sparkly "grainy film" look, which also was dynamic as I shifted position. Very distracting after a while. After many experiments, and wanting to see what I could squeeze out of what I have, I ground the surface to a nice true matte finish. It's not as "perfect" as I would like, but in actual viewing I don't see any significant inconsistencies across the image. Happy!


Convergence. I went through a number of warranty exchanges and just couldn't escape convergence error. After a while I noticed that some days it was nasty, some days really acceptable. This is not the hallmark of a true convergence misalignment. Having noted the amount of slop (free play) in the lens shift, lens zoom and lens focus mechanisms, I jiggled them around in various directions and combinations. I was able to eliminate most "convergence" error, just a trace remaining which wasn't objectionable. I think the optical alignment demands more than the construction provides!


To raise the geek factor, I've rigged some black velvet covered "barn doors" to absorb horizontal and vertical scatter from the lens (there's quite a lot!) The thing looks like a big old Panavision camera! I can't decide if it's cool or stupid as hell, but it kills the sidewall/floor/ceiling bounce *very* efficiently, and the velvet used has very low backscatter so it's not going back to the lens.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/21495959
> 
> 
> To raise the geek factor, I've rigged some black velvet covered "barn doors" to absorb horizontal and vertical scatter from the lens (there's quite a lot!) The thing looks like a big old Panavision camera! I can't decide if it's cool or stupid as hell, but it kills the sidewall/floor/ceiling bounce *very* efficiently, and the velvet used has very low backscatter so it's not going back to the lens.



I would be interested to see photos of how you rigged this and if possible, photos showing the effect of its use.


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just wanted to post again how happy I am with my 8350. I bought mine in November of 2010. I just called Epson because I noticed my projector was not as bright as normal. I normally watch TV on it during the day and I use the living room mode. However, the last month or two on occasion I had to put it in dynamic mode. So I called Epson Tech support I told them it just wasn't as bright. I also told them my bulb had 2341 hours on it. Then they sent me a new bulb overnight. With no hassle. What a great customer service experience. Now with a new bulb I have it in cinema mode during the day and its still brighter than it was before in living room mode.



I purchased mine 3 weeks ago and usually watch on dynamic because the others don't seem bright enough. Wondering if it's my bulb. I'm going to call them up.


----------



## Patd1

I have had my projector for almost two weeks now and have been experimenting with the different screens that I have. I have to agree with what "SonyCrusader" said about having the right screen. I have tried my projector out in my back yard on a 8 x 14 screen made out of blackout cloth. I sit around 20-25 feet away from the screen and the picture looks just fine. No hot spots and very good color uniformity. I have three different screens for my living room and have been trying them to see if there is any difference. I have a smallish Da-Lite 60 inch white pull down that I hung from my entertainment center and had the projector around 15 feet away. The picture was way to bright no matter what settings I used. My eyes got tired of watching it after around a half an hour. So I took that down and put it back in the garage. I have a Panoview Gray Wolf II pull down that is around 92 inchs and is High contrast Gray. I hung this in front of my patio door in my living room. The picture looks better than the Da-Lite but the viewing angle is not that good. Laying on my couch (Like Usual) I am out of the sweet spot and the picture is a little more dull than if I stand back and look at it from straight on. The colors are good but the screen does not seem to focus the picture very tight. I am using this screen just because it is convenient. My best screen is a Dragon Fly HC Gray fixed screen (That I don't have any place to mount) It is 106 inch and cost around $1400. I took down the Panoview and hung it up with some bungee cords just to see if it gave a better picture. It does. I put on a Harry Potter movie (which are filmed very dark) and was struck on how good the dark back grounds looked. This screen brings out the contrast in the darker scenes many times better than my cheaper screens. It focuses the picture better and the color looks more natural on this screen.

I think the screen material being stretched tight in the frame on my Dragon Fly has a significant effect on the picture. My pull downs are not tensioned so the screen just hangs and the screen surface is not completely flat.

I think the investment of a decent screen is well worth the price. If we are going to spend all of this money for a projector, Surround sound amplifier, speakers, Blu-ray player and for all of the blu-ray DVD's it doesn't make sense to project the picture onto a wall or a cheap screen.


----------



## rrestate




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It starts running at 10 hours, it's so they can test it functions without it looking like it's used.



Thanks everyone. Is it possible to reset the lamp hours? I did see a menu option for that.


With the missing manual and a couple of minor scratches on the unit, I am bit uneasy that I may have gotten a lemon.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrestate* /forum/post/21496194
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone. Is it possible to reset the lamp hours? I did see a menu option for that.
> 
> 
> With the missing manual and a couple of minor scratches on the unit, I am bit uneasy that I may have gotten a lemon.



If it wasn't in a factory sealed box and you got it at Worst Buy, I'd return it.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/21496176
> 
> 
> I purchased mine 3 weeks ago and usually watch on dynamic because the others don't seem bright enough. Wondering if it's my bulb. I'm going to call them up.



lets not abuse epson's liberal replacement policy

if we do,don't be surprised if they change it at some point


----------



## RAKs_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrestate* /forum/post/21496194
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone. Is it possible to reset the lamp hours? I did see a menu option for that.
> 
> 
> With the missing manual and a couple of minor scratches on the unit, I am bit uneasy that I may have gotten a lemon.



I would return/exchange it. Looks like you got a returned unit.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RAKs_* /forum/post/21496910
> 
> 
> I would return/exchange it. Looks like you got a returned unit.



He'll just get another refurbished unit back, _if_ they accept it back. As domingos38 above said, the more people abuse Epson's returns policy the more likely it will be tightened - and then nobody is happy.


----------



## Kiddikop

I bought my 8350 in Dec. last year 2010, it has about 900 hours on it. I have never calibrated it so it has always been on the factory settings. Last night, out of the blue, the warning light came on the screen, saying the projecting was overheating, and advised me to turn it off. The display showed a button I was supposed to push that had a backwards arrow on it. Well, despite searching all over the remote and the projector, I could not find a button that looked like this. I kept trying to turn it off in the normal fashion, with the remote, and everything just froze.....could get no buttons to work except the escape button which just kept leading me back to the warning light message. I finally resorted to unplugging it because I was afraid of taking up too much time to get a ladder to climb up and turn it off by the back switch. So, after reading the manual, I took the air cleaner off, tapped it quite a few times because not alot of dust came out and I wanted to be sure. Replaced the cleaner, then decided that I would go on and calibrate it, using Droid6's settings. When I turned it back on, I watched about 4 hours, no probs. Tonight I am watching the Golden Globes and really didn't like these settings from Droid's calibration, so I hit the reset button and reset everything, I think back to the factory settings. Within seconds I got the same overheating warning, again with the freeze=up so that I had to unplug it. Don't know what is making it overheat. It is about 20 inches from the back wall and about a foot from the ceiling, Any suggestions? Was wondering if having the power consumption set at ECO made the difference? Thanks for any suggestions....am kinda worried about it now.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiddikop* /forum/post/21498817
> 
> 
> I bought my 8350 in Dec. last year 2010, it has about 900 hours on it. I have never calibrated it so it has always been on the factory settings. Last night, out of the blue, the warning light came on the screen, saying the projecting was overheating, and advised me to turn it off. The display showed a button I was supposed to push that had a backwards arrow on it. Well, despite searching all over the remote and the projector, I could not find a button that looked like this. I kept trying to turn it off in the normal fashion, with the remote, and everything just froze.....could get no buttons to work except the escape button which just kept leading me back to the warning light message. I finally resorted to unplugging it because I was afraid of taking up too much time to get a ladder to climb up and turn it off by the back switch. So, after reading the manual, I took the air cleaner off, tapped it quite a few times because not alot of dust came out and I wanted to be sure. Replaced the cleaner, then decided that I would go on and calibrate it, using Droid6's settings. When I turned it back on, I watched about 4 hours, no probs. Tonight I am watching the Golden Globes and really didn't like these settings from Droid's calibration, so I hit the reset button and reset everything, I think back to the factory settings. Within seconds I got the same overheating warning, again with the freeze=up so that I had to unplug it. Don't know what is making it overheat. It is about 20 inches from the back wall and about a foot from the ceiling, Any suggestions? Was wondering if having the power consumption set at ECO made the difference? Thanks for any suggestions....am kinda worried about it now.



Can't answer your question, but copying someone else's calibration settings won't do you (or anyone else) any good. Each screen is slightly different. Even if you have identical screens, each projector and ambient lighting is different.


If you don't have a calibration puck, you can go a long way towards accurate colors (well, greyscale) burning the AVS calibration disk and following directions here .


----------



## jouko342

Is it possible to setup the PJ so that it chooses a preset based on input? I have a different calibration for HTPC and PS3, both running at 1080p. Unfortunately they both come through my AV amp to HDMI 1 so I'm assuming I'll have to fiddle with it manually.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21503427
> 
> 
> Is it possible to setup the PJ so that it chooses a preset based on input? I have a different calibration for HTPC and PS3, both running at 1080p. Unfortunately they both come through my AV amp to HDMI 1 so I'm assuming I'll have to fiddle with it manually.



Well, even if there was ... it would not apply because you are only using HDMI-1 on the 8350.


I created several presets on the 8350, and then press one button on the Harmony to invoke them.


I suppose you could do even more automation on the Harmony, but if the 8350 is just turning on and warming up ... I'm not sure how long you have to wait before it will accept menu commands. I like to watch it "step-through" the menu commands.


----------



## Ginchy

HOLY CHRIST THIS THING BLOWS MY HD65 AWAY!!!!!!!! wow!!











this picture does it NO justice at all. wow im impressed.


----------



## srauly

Hello all, I've been posting in a few different threads as I recently decided to finally upgrade my Panasonic PT-AE700U (720p LCD) projector. I first bought an Epson 3010 but found the 3D functionality somewhat ho-hum. It was neat, but wearing the glasses (with the viewability somewhat blocked), decreased brightness/PQ, added cost (glasses and 3D Blu-rays which you can't rent anywhere), there aren't a whole lot of 3D movies anyway, and the fact that my wife seems more adamant against it (it make her feel nauseous) has pushed me towards giving up that functionality.


After using the 8350 a bit more today, I *think* I've decided that it has enough brightness for me (was also contemplating trying the Panasonic AR100U). My present screen is a Da-Lite High Power 92" 16:9 screen, but I'd like to move up in size, but am somewhat hindered by the fact that my left wall is a half wall with a sloping ceiling (this is all up in my loft). But after experimenting with the zoom on the 8350 today and mulling over everything, I'm thinking now that I might like to go with a 120-130" 2.35:1 widescreen, realizing that I'd have to manually zoom in and refocus when watching 16:9 material. My thinking is that the best quality source material I'll be watching are Blu-ray movies which will often be wider than 16:9. Conversely, my 16:9 material will be more TV/HDTV source material which will be more compressed, sometimes 720p, and won't be what I'll be watching on the projector as often anyways, so it makes a lot of sense to me to optimize the screen size/format for the best quality, most frequently watched, material.


Are there many/any here who are using a 2.35:1 (or similar) widescreen?


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21503499
> 
> 
> I'm thinking now that I might like to go with a 120-130" 2.35:1 widescreen, realizing that I'd have to manually zoom in and refocus when watching 16:9 material.
> 
> 
> Are there many/any here who are using a 2.35:1 (or similar) widescreen?



Or make some kind of masking panels for 16:9 viewing. I am using a multi-format screen that does 16:9 and 2.35:1.


If I had to pick just one format again, I would probably go with 2.35:1 as I find I watch more movies than TV on the big screen.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21503524
> 
> 
> If I had to pick just one format again, I would probably go with 2.35:1 as I find I watch more movies than TV on the big screen.



Well that's my thinking on the subject. Plus, when I am watching HDTV (e.g., some recent Football games), the compression from Comcast seems more noticeable on the larger size/resolution (less noticeable/bothersome with my older 720p Panasonic AE700U - likely due to decreased resolution/softer image). When the source signal is exceptional, you want it as big as possible, but when the source signal sucks, the artifacts can become distracting to enjoying the content. That's not to say that I wasn't enjoying watching football, just that I think I'd be just as happy with a somewhat smaller 16:9 image inside of a bigger 2.35:1 screen which can be used, to its maximum potential, on higher quality Blu-ray source content.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21503539
> 
> 
> Well that's my thinking on the subject. Plus, when I am watching HDTV (e.g., some recent Football games), the compression from Comcast seems more noticeable on the larger size/resolution (less noticeable/bothersome with my older 720p Panasonic AE700U - likely due to decreased resolution/softer image). When the source signal is exceptional, you want it as big as possible, but when the source signal sucks, the artifacts can become distracting to enjoying the content. That's not to say that I wasn't enjoying watching football, just that I think I'd be just as happy with a somewhat smaller 16:9 image inside of a bigger 2.35:1 screen which can be used, to its maximum potential, on higher quality Blu-ray source content.



I dropped Comcast a few years ago over the compression. I got FIOS and never looked back. Far superior picture quality.


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21476552
> 
> 
> I have had the 8350 for over 13 months now and have played countless hours of Black Ops and have never seen any lag or blur....This projector is amazing and is one of my best purchases ever. It is pretty much like having a 100" LCD T.V. Epson customer service is also incredible. If you ever have a problem with your projector they will overnight you a new or refurbished one no questions asked with your free 2 year warranty. The new or refurbished projector they send you also comes with a new bulb installed. I had 1300 hours on my projector 2 months ago and there was a dust blob on the lens creating a white ball on my projection screen so they shipped me a new projector with a new bulb free.....So do not wait any longer and get this projector....



Is this legit? I just had a bulb failure at only 2035 hours and i'm a Ravens fanatic with them going to the AFC championship game i'm more than upset with the scenario. My projector is almost exactly one year old.


----------



## cnparton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21503499
> 
> 
> 
> Are there many/any here who are using a 2.35:1 (or similar) widescreen?



I'm using a 12ft x 5ft (150 in.) screen that we watch widescreen movies on and i have curtains on either side that i can pull together to shrink the screen size down to a 9 ft. x 5 ft.(110 in.) for 16x9 material, it works out great. I made the screen out of wilsonart designer white and could not be happier with the final result.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21503447
> 
> 
> Well, even if there was ... it would not apply because you are only using HDMI-1 on the 8350.
> 
> 
> I created several presets on the 8350, and then press one button on the Harmony to invoke them.
> 
> 
> I suppose you could do even more automation on the Harmony, but if the 8350 is just turning on and warming up ... I'm not sure how long you have to wait before it will accept menu commands. I like to watch it "step-through" the menu commands.



Harmony does delays between button presses, so it could be programmed. But Logitech's software is extremely convoluted, so I'll probably do it manually.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cnparton* /forum/post/21504382
> 
> 
> I'm using a 12ft x 5ft (150 in.) screen that we watch widescreen movies on and i have curtains on either side that i can pull together to shrink the screen size down to a 9 ft. x 5 ft.(110 in.) for 16x9 material, it works out great. I made the screen out of wilsonart designer white and could not be happier with the final result.



I use the Monoprice 106" variable format screen white and love it.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21504925
> 
> 
> Harmony does delays between button presses, so it could be programmed. But Logitech's software is extremely convoluted, so I'll probably do it manually.



when you said those words ... "Harmony and convoluted"







... it triggered my memory and I remembered another step ...


In the Harmony, first you create a "Sequence" and then you link that to a Command (I link mine to one of the remote's display items). To load a Preset into the 8350, you use keys like Memory, Enter, and DirectionKeys. It's actually pretty easy to get it working and might open possibilities and ideas for new uses.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21476552
> 
> 
> I have had the 8350 for over 13 months



This pic above ... with the large black bookshelf and center speakers that each have dual 6" drivers ... what kind of speakers those are?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21476552 


when you don't have room for floor standing towers, seems like these would be the next best thing.


----------



## hemogoblin

Hey does anyone know how long the refurb 8100 has been available for $749? A few days, a few weeks, a few months? Its that price from both visual apex and projector people. Just wondering if I need to jump on that sooner rather than later. I still want to wait and see if the 8350 drops to black friday prices during the superbowl.


If the 8350 stays at $1100-1200 ish, the 8100 for $749 seems like such a good deal for my first PJ.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21492730
> 
> 
> QC on the refurbs is poor, so it wouldn't really surprise me if they did.



My PJ was 1.5 months old working great, then it crapped out in the middle of the Broncos/Patriots game with all the guys over.


PJ shut off and then both lamp and temp lights were blinking red. Looked up the manual and that is pretty much the worst case scenario.


We had to revert to the 40" LCD to finish the game. Not cool. Called up Epson and they are overnighting a replacement.


Hope I get a good refurb because there are more playoffs to watch this Sunday!


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21506201
> 
> 
> My PJ was 1.5 months old working great, then it crapped out in the middle of the Broncos/Patriots game with all the guys over.
> 
> 
> PJ shut off and then both lamp and temp lights were blinking red. Looked up the manual and that is pretty much the worst case scenario.
> 
> 
> We had to revert to the 40" LCD to finish the game. Not cool. Called up Epson and they are overnighting a replacement.
> 
> 
> Hope I get a good refurb because there are more playoffs to watch this Sunday!



Can I ask a favor that you post the lamp hours on the refurb? Goes back to an earlier question I had about the refurb process. Understood that just because the PJ says 0 doesn't mean 0 (reset plausible). Just curious!! GOOD LUCK!


----------



## Fast351




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21506122
> 
> 
> This pic above ... with the large black bookshelf and center speakers that each have dual 6" drivers ... what kind of speakers those are?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21476552
> 
> 
> when you don't have room for floor standing towers, seems like these would be the next best thing.



They look like Polk TSi series to me:

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/bookshelf.php#tsi 


Probably real close in sound to my RT55i speakers I have.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21506253
> 
> 
> Can I ask a favor that you post the lamp hours on the refurb? Goes back to an earlier question I had about the refurb process. Understood that just because the PJ says 0 doesn't mean 0 (reset plausible). Just curious!! GOOD LUCK!



I can do that, no problem. I assume that they would send a new lamp with a refurbed PJ.


----------



## slybarman

The lamp hours can be reset, so I would not say that is 100% indicative of the true state of the lamp.


----------



## kawie01

My picture will go blank, come back on, shortly go blank, come back on (flickering-word just came to mind). Could this be the problem: i have 3 Bell'O hdmi cables linked together (2-13 ft & 1-6 ft). Would using a single hdmi cable solve the issue? If so, which cable would you recommend? I hear monoprice is the way to go, which type?


----------



## selkec

I need you experts advise. I am getting an Epson 8350. My room is 13x24x8'

But I have it set up so the 24' walls are the front and back. SO my Pj will be throw distance of 11'6" and Im looking at anything from 100 to 110" screens.My walls and ceilinig are all white and tan.


This is also my living room so I am looking for a 350$ or less automatic screen since i rent I dont wanna spend alot till I move. I will mainly watch during the night and can make it totally dark. But was thinking that I would like to be able ot watch it in the day from time to time. So I do have ambient light from windows. But they do have room darkening shades.

Also I want it to be trigger activated from the PJ.


So I have ran into the dilenma. Do I want white or gray screen? I have found a few I will post links and appreciate all your help.


white screen I was looking at is...
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...170&CatId=2433 


then these come in grey in 110 and 100"
http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_HDVio...9ax-100-gy.htm 


I look forward to any and all input. I think they gray gain is .9 and the white screen I do not think it says. Would my epson 8350 be bright enough for a gray screen with only a .9 gain?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kawie01* /forum/post/21508450
> 
> 
> Would using a single hdmi cable solve the issue?



Sure doesn't sound like a good arrangement.


Move the Blu-ray player under the projector and connect with single best cable. If you want the full effect, run SPDIF to the amp (I think you can use coax, with screw on RCA adapters). Then, you should have your answer.


Yes, MonoPrice has nice cables. We discussed this (gauge, etc.) earlier in the thread.


----------



## BladeRaver




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey does anyone know how long the refurb 8100 has been available for $749? A few days, a few weeks, a few months? Its that price from both visual apex and projector people. Just wondering if I need to jump on that sooner rather than later. I still want to wait and see if the 8350 drops to black friday prices during the superbowl.
> 
> 
> If the 8350 stays at $1100-1200 ish, the 8100 for $749 seems like such a good deal for my first PJ.



I am patiently waiting for my refund check to come in so I can jump on that hella deal, the way my luck has been going it will be gone the day before I get my check :/


----------



## JDKruger4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRaver* /forum/post/21510044
> 
> 
> I am patiently waiting for my refund check to come in so I can jump on that hella deal, the way my luck has been going it will be gone the day before I get my check :/



Was curious about this deal, which I assume was on the Epson site. Found the 8100 Refurb but its going for $1049 now.


----------



## mekkerl

I've had this PJ for almost a year now. And the bottom left corner of the image has always been skewed, or not a 90degree angle. (not sure of the correct word to use)


I always thought it was just the screen I was using...but after some thinking, I don't believe it is the screen because each of the other three corners are perfect.


See pictures.


Any ideas? Is it a faulty PJ or bulb?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/21510945
> 
> 
> I've had this PJ for almost a year now. And the bottom left corner of the image has always been skewed, or not a 90degree angle. (not sure of the correct word to use)
> 
> 
> I always thought it was just the screen I was using...but after some thinking, I don't believe it is the screen because each of the other three corners are perfect.
> 
> 
> See pictures.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? Is it a faulty PJ or bulb?



You just have to aim your projector better.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21511009
> 
> 
> You just have to aim your projector better.



But wouldn't that mess up the other corners?


And if the PJ wasn't aimed correct, the lens shift should correct that.


And, if it is not aimed correctly, either two or four corners would be skewed; not just the one.


----------



## isingh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But wouldn't that mess up the other corners?
> 
> 
> And if the PJ wasn't aimed correct, the lens shift should correct that.
> 
> 
> And, if it is not aimed correctly, either two or four corners would be skewed; not just the one.



I had similar problem with my Epson 6500ub, I called tech support to get this fixed. They asked me to project the image on a plain wall, I did and found that one side was longer than the other. The more you zoom to increase the size the more it becomes obvious. They sent me a replacement and this one also is just a little off but acceptable. You an throw on wall and figure if screen is an issue. My PJ is kept on hard top table.


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *isingh* /forum/post/21511248
> 
> 
> I had similar problem with my Epson 6500ub, I called tech support to get this fixed. They asked me to project the image on a plain wall, I did and found that one side was longer than the other. The more you zoom to increase the size the more it becomes obvious. They sent me a replacement and this one also is just a little off but acceptable. You an throw on wall and figure if screen is an issue. My PJ is kept on hard top table.



Wow, that's a good idea. I can put the screen up and project on the wall behind it and take measurements.


Mine is positioned on a shelf attached to the wall. Never moves and is never touched...


I might still call tech support to see if they say the same thing. But I don't think I would be happy getting a refurb unit from them as a replacement.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/21511110
> 
> 
> But wouldn't that mess up the other corners?
> 
> 
> And if the PJ wasn't aimed correct, the lens shift should correct that.
> 
> 
> And, if it is not aimed correctly, either two or four corners would be skewed; not just the one.



You still have to aim the projector correctly even with lens shift. It may very well be defective but I would guess it just needs some more adjustment. It would be too much writing to explain what adjustments I think you need to make so I'll try to make a picture in paint or something later. Can you take a picture of the top two corners also?


----------



## shandare

Hello,

I am new to the forum and have been looking all over for answers, so I apologize if I missed this already. I have a 160 inch screen and am looking at the 8350. I can place the projector pretty much anywhere I need it to be, but I am worried about the brightness at that screen size. Should I be worried? I will do my best to cover the window and door which are at the opposite end of the rec room (roughly 80 feet away). Do you think the Lumens will be enough for this screen size? I will be using it mostly for PS3 (games) and Blu-Ray movies.

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shandare* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am new to the forum and have been looking all over for answers, so I apologize if I missed this already. I have a 160 inch screen and am looking at the 8350. I can place the projector pretty much anywhere I need it to be, but I am worried about the brightness at that screen size. Should I be worried? I will do my best to cover the window and door which are at the opposite end of the rec room (roughly 80 feet away). Do you think the Lumens will be enough for this screen size? I will be using it mostly for PS3 (games) and Blu-Ray movies.
> 
> Thanks for any advice.



Go to the Epson website and look for their distance calculator. You can plug in your numbers and get answers there.


----------



## shandare

Thanks OSU, I have already done that and that size is supported, but I am not sure what kind of quality picture (ie brightness, contrast, will it be dim, etc) I will get at that size.

This quote from a review worries me: "In this environment, a 100" diagonal image is probably the maximum you will want to consider--anything larger can make the picture appear too dim."

That quote is from this review: http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm


----------



## jouko342

I've now calibrated the PJ six-eight times, for PS3 BD use and HTPC TV rip use. I'm _very_ happy with the results. Color temp is spot on at 6500k, greys are at or below deltaE of 1 (3-4 or lower is considered visually flawless), and I was able to get saturations very accurate with this excellent guide .


Long version here . The short version: I calibrated with color temp set at 6500k, skin tone 0, used AVS HD disk for black point of 16, and I decided to calibrate to 235 white to improve contrast and have higher white levels than calibrating to 25x. Gamma set at 2.4, tint at 0. I set Red channel to 21% of 75 IRE white by adjusting Color Saturation. I finally calibrated saturation with the aforementioned guide.


Main problems were gamma (see below), and green which is off quite a bit (second and third pic). Green was the offender in each run when I was doing saturation calibration, and I'm planning to contact Epson about it. It's certainly not enough for me to even consider changing the projector, but I'd like to bring it to their attention.


Attached results; I didn't see any clipping, either. It's quite a bit of work, as each calibration run takes 60-90 minutes, but it's well worth the effort - the colors are much better than visual calibration alone.



One thing that kinda bothers, though. As you can see from the gamma graph (1st image below), it drops (is too bright) at 70% and higher. Is this something others have seen? I'm using gamma preset 2.4. I tried setting it manually with the custom gamma setting, but the high-IRE settings would have to be changed so much that there's some _really_ ugly clipping going on later in the calibration. Is this something a screen or an ND filter could fix - but wouldn't they just shift the entire graph up/down, not just the high end?


----------



## selkec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *selkec* /forum/post/21508452
> 
> 
> I need you experts advise. I am getting an Epson 8350. My room is 13x24x8'
> 
> But I have it set up so the 24' walls are the front and back. SO my Pj will be throw distance of 11'6" and Im looking at anything from 100 to 110" screens.My walls and ceilinig are all white and tan.
> 
> 
> This is also my living room so I am looking for a 350$ or less automatic screen since i rent I dont wanna spend alot till I move. I will mainly watch during the night and can make it totally dark. But was thinking that I would like to be able ot watch it in the day from time to time. So I do have ambient light from windows. But they do have room darkening shades.
> 
> Also I want it to be trigger activated from the PJ.
> 
> 
> So I have ran into the dilenma. Do I want white or gray screen? I have found a few I will post links and appreciate all your help.
> 
> 
> 
> white screen I was looking at is...
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...170&CatId=2433
> 
> 
> then these come in grey in 110 and 100"
> http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_HDVio...9ax-100-gy.htm
> 
> 
> I look forward to any and all input. I think they gray gain is .9 and the white screen I do not think it says. Would my epson 8350 be bright enough for a gray screen with only a .9 gain?



Anyone, any suggestions?


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NickTF* /forum/post/21503676
> 
> 
> Is this legit? I just had a bulb failure at only 2035 hours and i'm a Ravens fanatic with them going to the AFC championship game i'm more than upset with the scenario. My projector is almost exactly one year old.



They overnighted me a new bulb free of charge just had to package up the broken one (and in my case it was actually broken oddly enough) and send it back in the box with the shipping label they provided. EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *selkec* /forum/post/21513641
> 
> 
> Anyone, any suggestions?



I have this:

I can have both windows in my 13 by 14 room unshaded and it's not bad

http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-HD-100-16...6934400&sr=8-1 


if you don't like it return it.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21513383
> 
> 
> Is this something a screen or an ND filter could fix - but wouldn't they just shift the entire graph up/down, not just the high end?



What are you using for a screen now? I'd like to see what it looks like when you attempt a custom gamma cal.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *selkec* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone, any suggestions?



With a throw at 11.5 ft, brightness will not be an issue, you'll have plenty. After that it's a matter of preference. I have a 1.0 gain Elite Cinegray screen and love it.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21514481
> 
> 
> What are you using for a screen now? I'd like to see what it looks like when you attempt a custom gamma cal.



My screen is a custom-cut stretched white artist's canvas, ie. very cheap screen not at all designed for accurate color reproduction







As you can see I can get very good color, but I was wondering if it could be the reason for the crazy gamma.


Attached what I can get by using custom gamma. But this means that I'll have to take down the bright-end sliders by 5-15 units. As a result I get really ugly clipping or posterization (hard to tell), especially at skin tone highlights, so it's unbearable. 2.4 gamma is without clipping, but the bright-end is too bright as mentioned earlier.


----------



## selkec




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21514553
> 
> 
> With a throw at 11.5 ft, brightness will not be an issue, you'll have plenty. After that it's a matter of preference. I have a 1.0 gain Elite Cinegray screen and love it.



What would be the advantage of a gray over the white? I assume one thing would be less reflected ambient light in my room at night coming off the screen? Maybe better blacks.

If one would be better for daytime use also I may go that route. But since this is more of a temp setup. If the white screen for only 199 will work almost just as good I would probably go that route till I move.


----------



## allbaugh_04

Could anyone show an example of the 8350's lens shift maxed out? I think it does 100% vertical and 47% horizontal, but I'm not really sure how much that actually is.


Basically, I'll have a 12ft throw, and was wondering if it could project the image on a wall that is 11ft wide while the projector is 5ft off the center of the room.


Any deals on this 8350 lately?


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21515544
> 
> 
> Could anyone show an example of the 8350's lens shift maxed out? I think it does 100% vertical and 47% horizontal, but I'm not really sure how much that actually is.
> 
> 
> Basically, I'll have a 12ft throw, and was wondering if it could project the image on a wall that is 11ft wide while the projector is 5ft off the center of the room.



If no one else responds with a definitive answer, I can probably try to simulate this tonight. I've been experimenting with the zoom and lens shift as I plan out a screen upgrade (I'm going to move up from my 92" 16:9 to possibly a larger and wider screen - possibly 2.35:1, and would be manually zooming in/out depending on the aspect ratio of the content I'm playing).


That said, I would interpret those numbers to mean the following: If at a 12ft throw it can throw a maximum of a 105" wide screen, and the max you could move the image horizontally (left/right) is 47%, then that should be a maximum left/right shift of about 49". And that's if you don't shift it vertically *at all*, as the lens shift is restricted in a diamond (or circular?) pattern, so if you shift it the max horizontally, you can't shift it at all vertically, and vice versa.


Again, someone feel free to jump in and correct anything I've said that may be incorrect.


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *selkec* /forum/post/21515441
> 
> 
> What would be the advantage of a gray over the white? I assume one thing would be less reflected ambient light in my room at night coming off the screen? Maybe better blacks.
> 
> If one would be better for daytime use also I may go that route. But since this is more of a temp setup. If the white screen for only 199 will work almost just as good I would probably go that route till I move.



This link may help :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1384773 


The grey provide for better contrast when the room has some ambient light. White screens are better for night time, or windowless viewing. If you look at your current screen or wall with the projector off, thats as dark as the blacks in the projected picture can get. So to artificially make the dark areas seem darker a grey screen can be used.


I'm having the same delima as you, but I'm leaning toward a grey screen with good gain, or refectivity. I did an experiment using an old silver lenticular screen for stereo slide viewing. What I discovered was that the dark areas do indeed look darker, but since the screen is refective the areas where the whites and colors are displayed tend to reflect back to your eyes and not get muted by the darker screen.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21516064
> 
> 
> If no one else responds with a definitive answer, I can probably try to simulate this tonight. I've been experimenting with the zoom and lens shift as I plan out a screen upgrade (I'm going to move up from my 92" 16:9 to possibly a larger and wider screen - possibly 2.35:1, and would be manually zooming in/out depending on the aspect ratio of the content I'm playing).
> 
> 
> That said, I would interpret those numbers to mean the following: If at a 12ft throw it can throw a maximum of a 105" wide screen, and the max you could move the image horizontally (left/right) is 47%, then that should be a maximum left/right shift of about 49". And that's if you don't shift it vertically *at all*, as the lens shift is restricted in a diamond (or circular?) pattern, so if you shift it the max horizontally, you can't shift it at all vertically, and vice versa.
> 
> 
> Again, someone feel free to jump in and correct anything I've said that may be incorrect.



Good to know. Seems to make sense. I'm probably going to need a ceiling mount then.


Although, if you're willing to take pics, I would be happy about it.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21506253
> 
> 
> Can I ask a favor that you post the lamp hours on the refurb? Goes back to an earlier question I had about the refurb process. Understood that just because the PJ says 0 doesn't mean 0 (reset plausible). Just curious!! GOOD LUCK!



Fired up the replacement PJ last night and it looks like a keeper. I could tell the box was not new because it wasn't sealed the same way, but upon inspection of the PJ itself, it was definitely in "like new" condition. Watched Moneyball and couldn't see any difference in brightness or issues with the image. Will have to watch some TV and another movie before calling it good.


Checked the lamp and it read 0H. Again, I don't have any light measurement tools, but the light output looks the same to me. Cinema is fantastic (and bright) with lights off, Living Room is good with back lights on and Dynamic is usable with all lights on.


----------



## Guitarstar

I've come to use the Living Room setting for everything because I think it represents the look of my 52" Sammy LCD the best. I've taken the basic LR setting and made a number of custom versions of it which I call up if I'm using the PJ for the BR, or the Xbox, if its daytime, or night, etc. ,but is always some version of LR. Anyone else find the Natural setting too green, or Cinema too washed out ? Maybe its just me because I use a white wall and not a refective screen ?


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21516675
> 
> 
> I've come to use the Living Room setting for everything because I think it represents the look of my 52" Sammy LCD the best. I've taken the basic LR setting and made a number of custom versions of it which I call up if I'm using the PJ for the BR, or the Xbox, if its daytime, or night, etc. ,but is always some version of LR. Anyone else find the Natural setting too green, or Cinema too washed out ? Maybe its just me because I use a white wall and not a refective screen ?



I like LV for TV viewing and sports. Dynamic is too saturated and punchy for me, even turned down. But I do use dynamic when lots of lights are on.


I like Cinema for movie viewing. Yes, it is more washed out, but I think that look suits movies better than a punchy image.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *selkec* /forum/post/21515441
> 
> 
> What would be the advantage of a gray over the white? I assume one thing would be less reflected ambient light in my room at night coming off the screen? Maybe better blacks.
> 
> If one would be better for daytime use also I may go that route. But since this is more of a temp setup. If the white screen for only 199 will work almost just as good I would probably go that route till I move.



You can read threads and webpages that debate which is better, white or grey, till you are blue in the face, but I all boils down to this.


Grey - Good for rooms with no/limited light control. Brighter picture in those ambient conditions.


White - Good for rooms with light control/no ambient light. Deeper blacks.


In your application, I believe you can go either way. The 8350 has PLENTY of firepower, especially at 11 ft. So basically, all you have to do is choose between brighter picture or deeper blacks.


----------



## slybarman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21517392
> 
> 
> You can read threads and webpages that debate which is better, white or grey, till you are blue in the face, but I all boils down to this.
> 
> 
> White - Good for rooms with no/limited light control. Brighter picture in those ambient conditions.
> 
> 
> Grey - Good for rooms with light control/no ambient light. Deeper blacks.
> 
> 
> In your application, I believe you can go either way. The 8350 has PLENTY of firepower, especially at 11 ft. So basically, all you have to do is choose between brighter picture or deeper blacks.



I think you have that backwards - white is better for light controlled rooms and grey better when less light control.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slybarman* /forum/post/21517448
> 
> 
> I think you have that backwards - white is better for light controlled rooms and grey better when less light control.



Whoops... edit done.


----------



## gene9p

I painted a 110 inch area in white as per projector central suggestion of Sherwin Williams satin base. It looks very very good.When I expand screen image to spread onto the original off white area on the wall , there is a huge difference. especially when I put on a hockey game. So the 20 bucks for the quart of paint was well worth it. I have my projector at 14-15 feet from the wall. It is set up in my LR that has lots of light and a terrace door next to the screen wall, so i can only use it at night and with curtains closed to darken the room .


----------



## vapotrini




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21521202
> 
> 
> I painted a 110 inch area in white as per projector central suggestion of Sherwin Williams satin base. It looks very very good.When I expand screen image to spread onto the original off white area on the wall , there is a huge difference. especially when I put on a hockey game. So the 20 bucks for the quart of paint was well worth it. I have my projector at 14-15 feet from the wall. It is set up in my LR that has lots of light and a terrace door next to the screen wall, so i can only use it at night and with curtains closed to darken the room .



Can you please post a link to that article?


----------



## tommyv2

Here you go...

http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm 


Side note: I do not agree with this article regarding the paint finish - I think it should always be flat. Just my opinion.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21521202
> 
> 
> I painted a 110 inch area in white as per projector central suggestion of Sherwin Williams satin base. It looks very very good.When I expand screen image to spread onto the original off white area on the wall , there is a huge difference. especially when I put on a hockey game. So the 20 bucks for the quart of paint was well worth it. I have my projector at 14-15 feet from the wall. It is set up in my LR that has lots of light and a terrace door next to the screen wall, so i can only use it at night and with curtains closed to darken the room .



Have you checked out the great discussions on various paint/additive "recipes" in the AVS 'DIY Screen Section' forum? For not a lot of additional effort you can dial-in a DIY screen mix that will be perfect for your environment - the improvements over just using a satin base are significant.


Cue MississippiMan..........


----------



## titch--

Hello guys


I just picked up the 8350 from visions, I think I got a really good deal (below their cost) and Im looking to set this up tonight.


Im looking at the projector central calculator and I thought that I seen somewhere in these forums that there was a better calculator for this projector. Cant seem to find the link for it now.


If someone with better knowledge can chime in here that would be great.


Im running a panny ae900 still on a 122"


Im looking to keep the 122" screen size. What would be a better throw distance, 16.5', 15.5' or 14.5'? Im in a light controlled room with the old sheerweave 4500 at screen.


To me they all look almost the same. Maybe the close ones look a little better.


thx


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *titch--* /forum/post/21528170
> 
> 
> Im looking to keep the 122" screen size. What would be a better throw distance, 16.5', 15.5' or 14.5'? Im in a light controlled room with the old sheerweave 4500 at screen.



Since you're in light-controlled room you're unlikely to run out of brightness. Generally a zoom lens performs best at around its midpoint, but in the end trust your eyes - you don't need a calculator for that


----------



## titch--

Ok thanks


Its just thats the only places I can put the mount, so I kind of wanted it in the best place possible.


cheers


----------



## mach250

Wondering how much time I have left with the original bulb. Seeing 2711H in the lamp hours menu and I've had the projector for about 7 months now.


Right now as I type this I'm seeing it go dim then brighten, dim-brighten every so often so I'm thinking it will be soon. Where have people ordered replacements from recently with good service?


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250* /forum/post/21529207
> 
> 
> Wondering how much time I have left with the original bulb. Seeing 2711H in the lamp hours menu and I've had the projector for about 7 months now.
> 
> 
> Right now as I type this I'm seeing it go dim then brighten, dim-brighten every so often so I'm thinking it will be soon. Where have people ordered replacements from recently with good service?



Please, someone tell me I did the math wrong, but that's almost 13 hours/day


----------



## mach250

its our living room television/computer monitor/gaming screen.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250* /forum/post/21529803
> 
> 
> its our living room television/computer monitor/gaming screen.



Your zeroing onto your life expectancy. No worries....Epson has you covered on that...especially since you've only had the unit up in the air for 7 Months.


When the Bulb goes, just don't bother to let 'em know you have almost 3K hours or more on it.


Best advice is to get another Bulb now.....replace the older one with a "bought" bulb, while it still works. Run the new Bulb until it fails or dies of old age. Save the old one as a emergency replacement, and when / if it fails while the 8350 is still under warranty, get it replaced.


Or....keep the old one in place until it dies, have it replaced, then at that time get your other spare Bulb as well.


Work the system.....because since the PJ is your main source of viewing content, you don't want to go black just before something special is coming on and not have a fix readily at hand.


----------



## jouko342

never mind


----------



## gene9p

best to pm that kind of advice...............


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21530068
> 
> 
> So you're encouraging him to cheat, possibly commit fraud. Gotta love the entitlement generation.
> 
> 
> You do realize it is "working the system" (your words) this way which causes companies to reduce warranties and become stricter with interpreting the rules? In other words, it might benefit him in the short term, but it will hurt every one of us in the long term.



Hey....back down or back off. Read things as they are and not how you want them to read.


1. Epson warranties the Bulb for the life of the PJs warranty. It really makes NO difference how many hours it has or why it fails. Such hourly limits are not specified.


2. If a high usage user wants to remove a dimming Bulb before it winks out, and replace it with one he aquires...using the latter until it fails or also starts dimming, then re-install the 1st bulb and use it until "it" fails...if the latter is still covered under warranty then having Epson replace it is his inherent right and Epson's obligation.


3. "Working the System" does not imply "Cheating the System" Goodness only knows how many people get "cheated" by the "System" because "The System" doesn't give them all the info they need to protect their investment.


4. Common sense ditates that when one asks for any replacement of anything under warranty, one doesn't brag about how they have used it to excess....as long as such excess doesn't fall outside the boundaries of accepted dictates for usage.


5. You should not be in such a rush to be judgemental, and know & consider all the Facts before you call anyone out for giving well intended...and good advice.


My advice was intended to show the Poster a "valid" way to keep his PJ up and running in what is obviously a high usage situation. Would you advocate denying him that?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21530329
> 
> 
> best to pm that kind of advice...............



If one has to do that, it would probably be advice that falls under jouko342's idea of advice. It is not. But thanks.


----------



## vapotrini




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/21523351
> 
> 
> Here you go...
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm
> 
> 
> Side note: I do not agree with this article regarding the paint finish - I think it should always be flat. Just my opinion.



Thank you very much, Tommy.


----------



## basementdweller1

Anyone care to comment on how suitable the 8350 is from 17-14' (farther back for me is better but I can go as close as 14') to use with a 126-120" diagonal Center Stage XD material screen 1.2 gain? It will be ceiling mounted and perhaps as much as 2' right of center. I am concerned it won't have brightness or pop being mounted further back with this size screen. Anyone with a similar setup? I am also considering the 5010 mainly for extra lumens but jeez it is $1800 more and 3D while neat isn't a must.


Thanks!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *basementdweller1* /forum/post/21533772
> 
> 
> Anyone care to comment on................
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Look to your dedicated Thread in 5 minutes or so.


----------



## mach250

Where do you recommend I purchase a replacement bulb? I don't want a third party knock off, I'd like OEM.


----------



## Guspaz

I bought one of these projectors last week from Future Shop (well, the 8345, but it's basically the same). I'm loving it so far, but there seems to be a slight problem with convergence; the red pixels are about one pixel higher up vertically than the other two. For example, if I have a 1-pixel high horizontal white line, upon closer inspection it's a cyan line and a red line above it, not a solid white line.


This is much less noticeable in video mode (due to smoother tones), but I'm wondering if I should get futureshop to swap it for a replacement, or if this sort of thing is typical?


----------



## caguy86

I purchased this projector in may and it has served me well, I use it daily. But a few months ago I noticed that during a movie, the picture would become out of focus, and to correct it I had to manually go and re-focus the projector. This does this everytime I watch a movie, or play xbox 360. I notice the blurriness after roughly 30 mins or so. Can anyone shed some light on this or how to correct it? Curious if anyone else has had this problem. Thanks in advance for the help


----------



## caguy86

Update: Just contacted EPSON, they are sending a replacement unit. Awesome customer support!


----------



## aerocowboy

After about a year of use, my 8350 is no longer as quiet as it used to be. Now, it's not "noisy", but the fan now has a quiet grumble that can get annoying if I happen to accidentally focus on it during a quiet movie.


Is this something typical, that can be aided with a partial disassembly/cleaning or new air filter? I don't want to do anything dumb (an air gun blowing dust into the optics?) or anything beyond what is considered user-accessible by the warranty I'm still under.


Ideas?


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *caguy86* /forum/post/21536856
> 
> 
> I purchased this projector in may and it has served me well, I use it daily. But a few months ago I noticed that during a movie, the picture would become out of focus, and to correct it I had to manually go and re-focus the projector. This does this everytime I watch a movie, or play xbox 360. I notice the blurriness after roughly 30 mins or so. Can anyone shed some light on this or how to correct it? Curious if anyone else has had this problem. Thanks in advance for the help



I have lots of experience with this.


What brightness are you using, Eco or Normal?

Set your focus after the 30 minutes is up. Does it drift further? If so, send that sucker away, it's defective.

When you've got that set, your PJ will be blurry until it warms up until the 30 minute mark. How much zoom are you using? I found that the amount of zoom plays a factor, since it changes the location of the optics and their positioning.


I also found that the defocusing decreased the more hours I got on my machine. By 80+ hours, it was only defocused for the first 10 minutes or so, and they got sharp and stayed that way until turned off. My Sony does that too, but it used to take 45 minutes - now it takes 10 or so, and is almost perfect right out of the gate, where initially it was tragic.


----------



## AUrator

Hi All,


i have recently purchased an Epson 8350. I am contemplating building a DIY 220" screen using BO cloth. Anyone done it? This will be for my business location to play games and movies on. Doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. I have full control of the lighting in the place and the wall is 23 feet high (below the support beam) with an unlimited throw distance up to 40ft. I will not be able to ceiling mount the PJ and will most likely use a cart of some sort for it to rest upon. Here are my ???s

1) Will it look OK at that size?

2) Am I going to pull out my hair trying to build this bohemoth screen and hang it on the wall


Reason for the large screen is simply for fun and "because I can and have room"









This is my first post as I am new to the forum. Thanks in Advance.


----------



## joepaiii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AUrator* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> i have recently purchased an Epson 8350. I am contemplating building a DIY 220" screen using BO cloth. Anyone done it? This will be for my business location to play games and movies on. Doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. I have full control of the lighting in the place and the wall is 23 feet high (below the support beam) with an unlimited throw distance up to 40ft. I will not be able to ceiling mount the PJ and will most likely use a cart of some sort for it to rest upon. Here are my ???s
> 
> 1) Will it look OK at that size?
> 
> 2) Am I going to pull out my hair trying to build this bohemoth screen and hang it on the wall
> 
> 
> Reason for the large screen is simply for fun and "because I can and have room"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first post as I am new to the forum. Thanks in Advance.



I don't think the 8350 has enough lumens to light up a 220 inch screen properly. Search for projector calculators and run the numbers.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You still have to aim the projector correctly even with lens shift. It may very well be defective but I would guess it just needs some more adjustment. It would be too much writing to explain what adjustments I think you need to make so I'll try to make a picture in paint or something later. Can you take a picture of the top two corners also?



Very true, this. Lens shift on this unit works well if you don't use a "T" square to check the corners. Perfect PJ centering and squareness in relation to the screen without using ANY lens shift will result in a square (well, rectangular) image. Using lens shift will give good but not perfect results.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So you're encouraging him to cheat, possibly commit fraud. Gotta love the entitlement generation.
> 
> 
> You do realize it is "working the system" (your words) this way which causes companies to reduce warranties and become stricter with interpreting the rules? In other words, it might benefit him in the short term, but it will hurt every one of us in the long term.



Many on here have gotten a replacement for 'convergence' problems (half of a pixel off) or 'noise' (although it about the quietest PJ out there) or any of a number of other bogus issues.


Epson has a policy that allows this, and it seems there are plenty of people willing to 'work the system' - and probably shoplift once in a while as well. Karma will make things even in the long run.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21541800
> 
> 
> Many on here have gotten a replacement for 'convergence' problems (half of a pixel off) or 'noise' (although it about the quietest PJ out there) or any of a number of other bogus issues.
> 
> 
> Epson has a policy that allows this, and it seems there are plenty of people willing to 'work the system' - and probably shoplift once in a while as well. Karma will make things even in the long run.



KARMA?


don't you think a big company like EPSON knows this?

the amount of returns they take back are nothing compared to how great

their reputation is on customer support.


pretty sure everyone on here's next projo would again be an Epson?


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21541800
> 
> 
> Many on here have gotten a replacement for 'convergence' problems (half of a pixel off) or 'noise' (although it about the quietest PJ out there) or any of a number of other bogus issues.
> 
> 
> Epson has a policy that allows this, and it seems there are plenty of people willing to 'work the system' - and probably shoplift once in a while as well. Karma will make things even in the long run.



Well, is the convergence issue not legitimate? Nobody ever answered my question. It's not like I'm trying to get a free bulb replacement; the projector is under a week old. It's just that, it's slightly annoying that the red pixels are shifted a full pixel too high, and I'm wondering if that is justification for a replacement.


Epson tech support got back to me and suggested I call in to work with a tech to see if it's a hardware issue (it is, it shows up on the pattern screen that's built into the projector), I could always take a picture and send it to them too.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guspaz* /forum/post/21541959
> 
> 
> Well, is the convergence issue not legitimate? Nobody ever answered my question. It's not like I'm trying to get a free bulb replacement; the projector is under a week old. It's just that, it's slightly annoying that the red pixels are shifted a full pixel too high, and I'm wondering if that is justification for a replacement.
> 
> 
> Epson tech support got back to me and suggested I call in to work with a tech to see if it's a hardware issue (it is, it shows up on the pattern screen that's built into the projector), I could always take a picture and send it to them too.



can you tell me where the patterns are under which menu(s)?

thanks.


----------



## tommyv2

Convergence is most definitely legitimate - Epson definitely swaps for that. You also get a new blub - they also don't care, since bulbs cost them almost nothing and good customer service means a LOT in today's Internet-driven fanboyism world.


That being said, Epson treated me incredibly well - absolutely perfect - but I still went with another brand the second time out. At some point you start thinking, "their customer support is amazing because their engineering and quality control are awful." That's how I personally feel, and I'm sure many here agree, especially the ones who have been in Epson Warranty Hell for a length of time.


----------



## isingh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> KARMA?
> 
> 
> don't you think a big company like EPSON knows this?
> 
> the amount of returns they take back are nothing compared to how great
> 
> their reputation is on customer support.
> 
> 
> pretty sure everyone on here's next projo would again be an Epson?



Yup !! I agree with you. One of the most appealing reason for me to buy Epson was their no hassle warranty. I was inclined for Optoma but then I saw 1 yr warranty and changed my mind. Although the one I landed up buying was much better in specs from Optoma but still great cust support was one of the biggest reasons even though I paid a bit more.


At least one less thing to worry about in this world


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21530068
> 
> 
> So you're encouraging him to cheat, possibly commit fraud. Gotta love the entitlement generation.
> 
> 
> You do realize it is "working the system" (your words) this way which causes companies to reduce warranties and become stricter with interpreting the rules? In other words, it might benefit him in the short term, but it will hurt every one of us in the long term.



Ya know...the saddest thing about the post above is that it ignores the legitimate to wax on about conjecture. Read again, nothing was ever stated about trying to cheat...or really take anymore advantage than was perfectly legitimate to do so.


I don't think anybody else in over 10 years has ever accused me of cheating, or encouraging someone to cheat....and over that time a lot of "Mudd" has been slung my direction over many various issues.


Myself, yeah....I've at times looked a bit askance at all the minor reasons people have dogged Epson about for replacements. "Convergence 1/2 Pixel off" and such. But I've never considered telling anyone they were cheating Epson by asking for redress. Frankly, Epson made their own bed by being as liberal and cooperative about such issues, as well as the extended Bulb replacement policy.


Even after a year's time, many People still almost don't know what to do with themselves over it...it's such an unusual PR/Warranty stance to take as far as PJ Mfgs are concerned. Just the same, a consumer would have to be a idiot to not use such a policy to their advantage, if such was within their scope and right to do so.


I'm over it....let's move on to gettin' people happy.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joepaiii* /forum/post/21540932
> 
> 
> I don't think the 8350 has enough lumens to light up a 220 inch screen properly. Search for projector calculators and run the numbers.



Oh....I'm not at all sure that is the case......to wit;


210" DIAGONAL 27' Throw JVC RS2 w/_*600 lumens*_












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AUrator* /forum/post/21540585
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> i have recently purchased an Epson 8350. I am contemplating building a DIY 220" screen using BO cloth. Anyone done it? This will be for my business location to play games and movies on. Doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. I have full control of the lighting in the place and the wall is 23 feet high (below the support beam) with an unlimited throw distance up to 40ft. I will not be able to ceiling mount the PJ and will most likely use a cart of some sort for it to rest upon. Here are my ???s
> 
> 1) Will it look OK at that size?
> 
> 2) Am I going to pull out my hair trying to build this bohemoth screen and hang it on the wall
> 
> 
> Reason for the large screen is simply for fun and "because I can and have room"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first post as I am new to the forum. Thanks in Advance.



First off....Hi! Welcome to AVS !


Now down to cases......if you didn't have the 8350 and you posted up before you jumped, I'd be steering you toward a Optoma TH-1060P 1080p w/4500 lumens. Yeah.....that's right. 4500 Lumens


The Screen above is a S-I-L-V-E-R application sprayed directly onto smoothed and primed Drywall. It's not a application well known for providing a top notch image in ambient light. Casual viewing by knowledgeable AVS'ers who have seen it in person estimate it's gain at 3.0 Personally I was figuring 2.5 Even at that, with a new bulb and in calibrated "Living Room Mode", a 8350 would deliver 10 foot lamberts to a 220" screen. The JVC was calculated at 9 fls at 210" diagonal and 2.5 gain.


Now if the Optoma TH-1060P was used, at 220" diagonal you'd get 28 fls at a throw distance of 27.9' ft. and still have a varying Throw distance available of between 25'-5" and 30'-6" with Lumen outputs of 31 fls and 26 fls. Those levels are bright enough that you could use the reflected light to count the freckles on your Lady's.......nose.


BTW...all the Foot Lambert measurements just above are with using just a 1.0 gain screen. Bump up to just a 1.4 Gain Gray and you'd get 36fls - 40fls - 44fls at 25.5' / 27.9'/ 30.6'


My advice....sell the Epson...and get the TH-1060P. Paint up a modestly Gray-hued Screen with at least 1.4 gain and enjoy Plasma-like brightness, truely deep black levels, and go right ahead and keep some well directly lighting on at the same time.



Oh yeah....the TW-1060p only costs $1399.00










Don't just settle for....aspire to.


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21541970
> 
> 
> can you tell me where the patterns are under which menu(s)?
> 
> thanks.



There's a "Pattern" button on the remote. It will display a blue screen with some lines and circles.


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21542637
> 
> 
> Now down to cases......if you didn't have the 8350 and you posted up before you jumped, I'd be steering you toward a Optoma TH-1060P 1080p w/4500 lumens. Yeah.....that's right. 4500 Lumens



The Optoma TH1060P is a single-chip DLP office projector, not a home theater projector. If it's anything else like all the other similar projectors I've seen (and being in charge of 27 projectors ranging from 2700 to 8000 lumens for a convention, almost all single-chip DLP, I've seen a few), the colour accuracy is going to be laughable. Like, red-is-purple-and-green-is-yellow bad. And those projectors often had the same "TI BrilliantColor technology" as the Optoma. I'd be VERY careful before buying a single-chip office projector for a home theatre.


EDIT: I'm not saying that the colour accuracy on the Optoma is necessarily that bad, just that I would assume it was until some review says otherwise.


----------



## AUrator

Thanks for the greeting...pleasure to be here... and for the info. I got my "new" 8350 from a trusted friend as a barter deal. It has a new bulb and he has never experienced a problem with it since new.


I am going to stick with it since it was after all no cash out of pocket for me. I will research the silver paint on surface and let you know what I decide. I will most likely need a little assistance at power up time with the settings though.


Thanks guys.


----------



## tatersly

Very well said MISSISSIPPI MAN. It's being smart, not anything to do with cheating. Thank you for explaining your thoughts. Being a newby here, i've learned ALOT just reading all you guys posts. I'm sure i'll have my share of "dumb" questions when the time comes.....i hope sooner than later. Thanks to all.


----------



## tester3001

Are people still having the dust blob issues? I've heard some really good reviews but all the reports of dust are putting me off. I'm not sure if the numbers are representative or not. How many of you are free from dust issues. I saw a lot of reports earlier in the thread, is the problem still bad?


----------



## cassou

I was wondering what kind of screen you guys are using? I have white walls and white ceiling and also white screen. I have read many different places that a grey screen could help for having deeper blacks. Do you guys have any suggestions on what screen i could get to replace my white screen?


I was hoping to keep it under 500$ but any suggestion is welcome.


Thank you in advance.










(I did try to post in the screen section of these forums but over a hundred views and no replies yet)


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cassou* /forum/post/21544970
> 
> 
> I was wondering what kind of screen you guys are using? I have white walls and white ceiling and also white screen. I have read many different places that a grey screen could help for having deeper blacks. Do you guys have any suggestions on what screen i could get to replace my white screen?
> 
> 
> I was hoping to keep it under 500$ but any suggestion is welcome.
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I did try to post in the screen section of these forums but over a hundred views and no replies yet)



Post here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...rune=365&f=110 ..and I assure you of a timely response.


Teaser: For 1/2 that $500.00 you can have a Gray Screen with performance akin to a $3k Mfg Screen.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guspaz* /forum/post/21542934
> 
> 
> The Optoma TH1060P is a single-chip DLP office projector, not a home theater projector. If it's anything else like all the other similar projectors I've seen (and being in charge of 27 projectors ranging from 2700 to 8000 lumens for a convention, almost all single-chip DLP, I've seen a few), the colour accuracy is going to be laughable. Like, red-is-purple-and-green-is-yellow bad. And those projectors often had the same "TI BrilliantColor technology" as the Optoma. I'd be VERY careful before buying a single-chip office projector for a home theatre.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I'm not saying that the colour accuracy on the Optoma is necessarily that bad, just that I would assume it was until some review says otherwise.



Somehow your overlooking the fact that 99.99999 % of all posters on the PJs under 3K Forum haven't even remotely considered a $20K 3-chipper.


...and what about the 220" size stipulation? Care to relate how much a 5K Lumen 3-Chipper runs?


The Optoma can easily be calibrated to a more than reasonable level of performance. I've already seen it do well with similar sized screens.


The Poster seems ready to try having a go with the 8350 (...a good thing on this thread...







) and under those circumstances, a DIY S-I-L-V-E-R screen is his only hope for acheiving anything worthy of note.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AUrator* /forum/post/21542983
> 
> 
> Thanks for the greeting...pleasure to be here... and for the info. I got my "new" 8350 from a trusted friend as a barter deal. It has a new bulb and he has never experienced a problem with it since new.
> 
> 
> I am going to stick with it since it was after all no cash out of pocket for me. _I will research the silver paint on surface and let you know what I decide._
> 
> I will most likely need a little assistance at power up time with the settings though.
> 
> Thanks guys.



Please do, but do so on this Forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...rune=365&f=110 


S-I-L-V-E-R requires a measured approach to spray painting. It's not at all difficult, but you do need to know what's important.


This Forum is about a particular PJ so details as far as a DIY Screen goes are more appropriate on a dedicated Thread in the specified Forum.


----------



## hemogoblin

Just wondering, I just got my Epson 8100 today, and that thread seems dead so I thought I would ask here.


Hours on the lamp dont seem to be counting. I must have put at least 4-6 hours on it today and the lamp is still reading at 0hr. Is this normal?


And OMG, watching a movie on your very own 120" PJ is a life changing experience. Wow.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/21545188
> 
> 
> Just wondering, I just got my Epson 8100 today, and that thread seems dead so I thought I would ask here.
> 
> 
> Hours on the lamp dont seem to be counting. I must have put at least 4-6 hours on it today and the lamp is still reading at 0hr. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> And OMG, watching a movie on your very own 120" PJ is a life changing experience. Wow.



they don't start the clock till about 10 or so hours.


----------



## BigJJL

I don't think the lamp hours begin to register until at least 10 hours has been achieved.


----------



## BigJJL

Somehow my Android did not show Kevin's reply before I commented......sorry about that Kevin....but always good to have a second opinion!! LOL


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21530333
> 
> 
> Hey....back down or back off. Read things as they are and not how you want them to read.
> 
> 
> 1. Epson warranties the Bulb for the life of the PJs warranty. It really makes NO difference how many hours it has or why it fails. Such hourly limits are not specified.
> 
> 
> 2. If a high usage user wants to remove a dimming Bulb before it winks out, and replace it with one he aquires...using the latter until it fails or also starts dimming, then re-install the 1st bulb and use it until "it" fails...if the latter is still covered under warranty then having Epson replace it is his inherent right and Epson's obligation.
> 
> 
> 3. "Working the System" does not imply "Cheating the System" Goodness only knows how many people get "cheated" by the "System" because "The System" doesn't give them all the info they need to protect their investment.
> 
> 
> 4. Common sense ditates that when one asks for any replacement of anything under warranty, one doesn't brag about how they have used it to excess....as long as such excess doesn't fall outside the boundaries of accepted dictates for usage.
> 
> 
> 5. You should not be in such a rush to be judgemental, and know & consider all the Facts before you call anyone out for giving well intended...and good advice.
> 
> 
> My advice was intended to show the Poster a "valid" way to keep his PJ up and running in what is obviously a high usage situation. Would you advocate denying him that?



My bad, I deleted my post.


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21545122
> 
> 
> Somehow your overlooking the fact that 99.99999 % of all posters on the PJs under 3K Forum haven't even remotely considered a $20K 3-chipper.
> 
> 
> ...and what about the 220" size stipulation? Care to relate how much a 5K Lumen 3-Chipper runs?
> 
> 
> The Optoma can easily be calibrated to a more than reasonable level of performance. I've already seen it do well with similar sized screens.
> 
> 
> The Poster seems ready to try having a go with the 8350 (...a good thing on this thread...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and under those circumstances, a DIY S-I-L-V-E-R screen is his only hope for acheiving anything worthy of note.



It's the "office projector" part that's also a concern, though. It's also not really a fair comparison, the Optoma is abnormally cheap for a 1080p 4500 lumen projector. I'd normally expect only to get a 1280x800 projector for that price.


There may be 3LCD projectors of a similar actual (not rated) brightness in a similar price range, but there definitely are 3LCD projectors of lower brightness in a similar price range. I'm not saying the Optoma can't be calibrated decently, only that my experience with a whole bunch of different single-chip DLP office models tells me that they should never be used in a home theatre without seeing benchmarks first.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tester3001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are people still having the dust blob issues? I've heard some really good reviews but all the reports of dust are putting me off. I'm not sure if the numbers are representative or not. How many of you are free from dust issues. I saw a lot of reports earlier in the thread, is the problem still bad?



I do have what I assume to be a 'dust blob' issue - on a black screen I often see a tennis ball sized blob (light greenish color) that sometimes relocates itself to a different area on the screen.


I've never seen it during a movie, but with no input (black screen) it'll usually be visible somewhere. Have dust blobs been known to move by themselves? It is not worth taking the PJ down as long as it is never visible during a movie, so I'll leave it alone for now.


John F


----------



## jejagua

I've been lurking here for a month or so. Great info and thanks to everyone who contributes to the discussion. I like the Epson 8350 and bought it mainly because of the advice here.


I painted a 120" white screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic, Extra White, Satin, Smooth Enamel Finish, # B20 W 51, as referenced in several online posts. I spent lots of time floating the texture off the wall, so it is very smooth. Three coats of primer and three coats of the paint.


Throw distance is 14” with a 13-15” viewing distance. Light controlled environment.


Issue 1: I calibrated using Disney Wow and I am pleased with these initial results, except no matter how much I watch it, the scenes appear dim. The color balance, sharpness and contrast are good, but overall, the display is dim. This is my first projector, so I’m sure my expectations need realigned as I’ve been watching a 55” LCD for two years. However, what is the best method / mode to increase the lumens as a starting point prior to calibration? I used natural, non-eco, iris-off, gamma 2.2. Dynamic is too much light-output wise. All the other modes appear not enough and can’t find the happy medium.


Issue 2: The run from my media closet to the projector is 30’ if I use my cable stretcher. Ok, not literally, but almost. I’m using cheapy HDMI cable (1) 25’ length, a coupler and (1) 6’ length. I know this sounds hideous but I just roughed it in with what I already had. It works fine w/ FIOS receiver and Xbox 360 but the Panasonic Bluray player I just picked up chokes the Epson 8350 at 1080p. I have a Denon AVR 1912 in the middle. Tried the Pany direct to the cable, same result. 1080i works fine. Suggestions for a high speed 30’ budget cable? Checked monoprice..appears 25’ is the max length for high speed (individual cable). I’m a newbie when it comes to these long runs. I depleted my budget, so I’m trying to avoid having to scrape up another couple hundred on cable and / or HDMI amp…or is that unavoidable? I considered mounting the Pany below the Epson w/ an air gap. This would provide more convenient access to the player, but I would have to carry the audio back to the media closet. As I type this I’m feeling silly because ultimately I know I shouldn’t skimp on the HDMI run.


----------



## srauly

You could try an HDMI signal booster / repeater. I have one, but forget the make/model off-hand, and I also forget how long my run is (I bought it and a long cable a couple years back). I could double-check later, though.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jejagua* /forum/post/21548289
> 
> 
> I've been lurking here for a month or so. Great info and thanks to everyone who contributes to the discussion. I like the Epson 8350 and bought it mainly because of the advice here.
> 
> 
> I painted a 120" white screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic, Extra White, Satin, Smooth Enamel Finish, # B20 W 51, as referenced in several online posts. I spent lots of time floating the texture off the wall, so it is very smooth. Three coats of primer and three coats of the paint.
> 
> 
> Throw distance is 14 with a 13-15 viewing distance. Light controlled environment.
> 
> 
> Issue 1: I calibrated using Disney Wow and I am pleased with these initial results, except no matter how much I watch it, the scenes appear dim. The color balance, sharpness and contrast are good, but overall, the display is dim. This is my first projector, so I'm sure my expectations need realigned as I've been watching a 55 LCD for two years. However, what is the best method / mode to increase the lumens as a starting point prior to calibration? I used natural, non-eco, iris-off, gamma 2.2. Dynamic is too much light-output wise. All the other modes appear not enough and can't find the happy medium.
> 
> 
> Issue 2: The run from my media closet to the projector is 30' if I use my cable stretcher. Ok, not literally, but almost. I'm using cheapy HDMI cable (1) 25' length, a coupler and (1) 6' length. I know this sounds hideous but I just roughed it in with what I already had. It works fine w/ FIOS receiver and Xbox 360 but the Panasonic Bluray player I just picked up chokes the Epson 8350 at 1080p. I have a Denon AVR 1912 in the middle. Tried the Pany direct to the cable, same result. 1080i works fine. Suggestions for a high speed 30' budget cable? Checked monoprice..appears 25' is the max length for high speed (individual cable). I'm a newbie when it comes to these long runs. I depleted my budget, so I'm trying to avoid having to scrape up another couple hundred on cable and / or HDMI ampor is that unavoidable? I considered mounting the Pany below the Epson w/ an air gap. This would provide more convenient access to the player, but I would have to carry the audio back to the media closet. As I type this I'm feeling silly because ultimately I know I shouldn't skimp on the HDMI run.



did you try putting the panny under the projector and trying the 6 foot cable directly?


----------



## gene9p

here are some photos of my painted wall with the Sherwin Williams satin base


in the first photo..check out the darker border on the left on the ice..that is the original off white wall color with the projection extended to show the difference provided by the Sherwin Williams paint


these are shots from my FIOS tv


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21548821
> 
> 
> here are some photos of my painted wall with the Sherwin Williams satin base
> 
> 
> in the first photo..check out the darker border on the left on the ice..that is the original off white wall color with the projection extended to show the difference provided by the Sherwin Williams paint
> 
> 
> these are shots from my FIOS tv



I would move the media to the sides...


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jejagua* /forum/post/21548289
> 
> 
> Issue 1: I calibrated using Disney Wow and I am pleased with these initial results, except no matter how much I watch it, the scenes appear dim. The color balance, sharpness and contrast are good, but overall, the display is dim. This is my first projector, so I'm sure my expectations need realigned as I've been watching a 55 LCD for two years. However, what is the best method / mode to increase the lumens as a starting point prior to calibration? I used natural, non-eco, iris-off, gamma 2.2. Dynamic is too much light-output wise. All the other modes appear not enough and can't find the happy medium.



Try changing the HDMI range setting.


It can be found in the menu at:


Signal -> Advanced... -> HDMI Video Range


There are two settings and three options: Auto, Normal, Expanded, and auto picks one of the two. Whichever it's on, try the other one. If this setting is incorrect, it can make the image look washed out.


----------



## Guspaz

So, I took some pictures of my convergence issue (attached).


The first picture shows a shot of the corner of a Media Player Classic window. The text has cleartype enabled, so it's a bad example. But the horizontal white lines of the player, and the yellow lines next to the speaker icon, those show the issue well. I can see the misalignment on the horizontal lines from at least 5 feet away (my normal viewing distance is maybe 7-8 feet, tiny apartment), and it can be distracting when there's, say, white text on a black background, like opening/ending credits of a movie.


The other two shots are pictures from the projector's built-in pattern (to show it's not a video source issue). I think the last shot is the most telling, because I'm pretty sure that four pixel high horizontal line is only supposed to be two pixels high, and pure white.


Anyhow, I called Epson tech support about it this evening (just got off the phone), and I was a tad annoyed. First of all, they don't let you use their toll-free 800 number. You need a PIN to use that. Normal schmoes only get to use their long-distance support line. Second of all, they said they could only ship a replacement projector by Purolator, despite the fact that Purolator only delivers when I'm at work; I'd have to redirect the package to the closest purolator store, which is nowhere near my house (and would require ~$12 in transit fair just for the two round trips).


My best option, it seems, is to try to take advantage of Futureshop's 30-day return policy to get a replacement to see if it improves the situation. That's much more convenient than purolator... ugh.


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21549112
> 
> 
> I would move the media to the sides...




in a perfect world.....terrace door there on right..rest of HT equipment and tv to the left..I am using a wall in my LR for screen


----------



## Styx214

Hello All,


I purchased the 8350 back on Thanksgiving day from Amazon direct on sale for 999.99 (to good a deal to pass up). So far I am pretty happy with it but I did notice some small scratches all over the inside lens this doesn't seem to affect the picture though. Is this something I should be concerned about? Secondly, I keep reading how quiet it is and initially it was but after about 60hrs the intake fan (I think) is running really loud about 34db on my sound meter at 5ft away. I don't notice it during movies or games until it is a quiet scene. Is this normal for other folks? I have the lamp on eco mode in a light controlled theater room. I should also note this is my first projector and I tend to be sensitive to noise issues.


Thanks is advance for the help and advice


----------



## spaceace414

Two things...I have had my Epson 8350 for about a year...this is my second one as the first developed the green dust blob. Now I have another one starting to develop. Can I take a can of spray air and spray into the front of the projector where the vent is? I do not want to make the issue worse than it is...but was thinking this could possibly clear it out? I really do not want to send this back...but will if I have to.


Second...I just do not see any "pop" with this projector. Although I did not really see any with my older Sanyo 1080P projector either. I really expect the image to jump out at me. I have a cheapo Wal-mart Blu-Ray player in our condo in the mountains paired with a cheapo LCD big screen television...and I get more pop out of that than my 8350.


The 8350 (and my older Sanyo) are paired with a used Panasonic BD-30 that I bought. Could this possibly be my issue? I am thinking about bringing my cheapo BR player to the house and hook it up and see if there is a difference...but thought I would ask your guys opinion. Very frustrated that I am not getting the image that I want.


----------



## MississippiMan

spaceace414,


What various setting have you tried? How many hours on that year old Bulb? Often, a calibration, or just a simple tweaking of your Gamma & Contrast levels can make all the difference. Iris Setting and Low Lamp mode as well. Many factors can go into getting a lessor or enhanced degree of expected performance. Hopefully it cannot be traced back to the decision to go with a DIY Gray Screen.










I'll be in Denver between the 5th & the 7th of next Month (Feb) and I'll be happy to stop by if there is any reason you might want me to.


As far as the Dust Blob issue, you might be a bit hard pressed to get Epson to accept responsibility for such, as the amount of time since you received your replacement unit is a bit extended from the time you now starting up with a complaint. But who knows....Epson has been pretty crazy good with Customer service.



BTW, how's your PoP watching HDTV Broadcasts?


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21548821
> 
> 
> here are some photos of my painted wall with the Sherwin Williams satin base
> 
> 
> in the first photo..check out the darker border on the left on the ice..that is the original off white wall color with the projection extended to show the difference provided by the Sherwin Williams paint
> 
> 
> these are shots from my FIOS tv



Sweet, thanks for this comparison shot. I have Behr Silverscreen paint (looks grey when painted on the wall) and I am super curious if the Sherwin Williams Satin would provide a better quality image. I might get around to repainting the wall SW.










You can see my silverscreen shots to see how they compare over at my build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1377874


----------



## spaceace414




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21551193
> 
> 
> spaceace414,
> 
> 
> What various setting have you tried? How many hours on that year old Bulb? Often, a calibration, or just a simple tweaking of your Gamma & Contrast levels can make all the difference. Iris Setting and Low Lamp mode as well. Many factors can go into getting a lessor or enhanced degree of expected performance. Hopefully it cannot be traced back to the decision to go with a DIY Gray Screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be in Denver between the 5th & the 7th of next Month (Feb) and I'll be happy to stop by if there is any reason you might want me to.
> 
> 
> As far as the Dust Blob issue, you might be a bit hard pressed to get Epson to accept responsibility for such, as the amount of time since you received your replacement unit is a bit extended from the time you now starting up with a complaint. But who knows....Epson has been pretty crazy good with Customer service.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, how's your PoP watching HDTV Broadcasts?



I don't think it is the screen...as I had this same problem with the older Sanyo. I will know more when I bring home the other BR player from the mountains. This is my second 8350 this year...probably replaced the other one about six months ago. I still may try the compressed air first if no one thinks it will hurt anything.


As far as the "pop"...I have just really not seen that 3D looking image (not true 3D...but I think you know what I mean) you get from a really great 1080P image. I know if my cheap equipment at the condo can produce this, then something is wrong....unless projectors do not create that wonderful picture you see on flat screen tvs...which I know is not the case.


----------



## blindmnkee3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet, thanks for this comparison shot. I have Behr Silverscreen paint (looks grey when painted on the wall) and I am super curious if the Sherwin Williams Satin would provide a better quality image. I might get around to repainting the wall SW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see my silverscreen shots to see how they compare over at my build thread:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1377874




I don't know that you will have any better luck with a different paint. Anything you can do reduce the glare on the ceiling, floor and walls will go along way to improving your viewing experience. I used Behr Silverscreen in my completely light-controlled basement theater. The screen wall and ceiling are painted a flat, dark gray paint called Knight Armor. The walls are also painted dark. I created a frame around the painted wall and wrapped the frame in black velvet. That black velvet is awesome and made a big difference. I've been extremely happy with the results of the painted screen. Been using it now for over a year and could not be happier. The only way I'll ever purchase a screen in the future is if we have more space, in a different home, so that I can go with an AT screen to clean up the screen wall by hiding the speakers.


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21551193
> 
> 
> What various setting have you tried? How many hours on that year old Bulb? Often, a calibration, or just a simple tweaking of your Gamma & Contrast levels can make all the difference. Iris Setting and Low Lamp mode as well. Many factors can go into getting a lessor or enhanced degree of expected performance. Hopefully it cannot be traced back to the decision to go with a DIY Gray Screen.



Are there any suggestions about how one might go about tweaking this sort of stuff? I played around with the settings a bit, but nothing particularly looked more or less correct to me (except getting the HDMI range right) so I left most settings at default for that (except bumping the temp up to 7000k).


I'm just projecting on a poorly painted wall right now, since my new screen is on order (Da-Lite Theater-Lite 80"), but it would still be nice to tweak it a bit.


I don't have any calibration discs or tools, although the projector is connected to my PC, so I can easily load any image or video on it.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/19872490
> 
> 
> My 8350 should be coming soon...does anyone recommend a Blu-Ray Player that goes well with this projector?



I know this isn't the direct answer you are looking for, but I only recommend/buy players from Sony, LG, or Panasonic. From there, I just choose one based on what features I'm looking for and which one is on sale. Once you decide on whether you want wifi built-in or if you want an on-board hard drive, you will end up with one model choice once you go through the process of elimination.


----------



## wudevious

Hey all, looking to pick up a 8350 when the price comes down a little, first projector, so I'm excited. In a bind with my setup though, so my question is, besides blu-ray movies, do people watch a lot of normal hdtv with the projector? or play PS3 games? Concerned about how it looks and the possible everyday wear on the projector/bulb. More costly workaround is to have a drop-down screen in front of my tv but am thinking of just having a larger fixed screen on the wall (and shelving the tv). Thanks!


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guspaz* /forum/post/21549249
> 
> 
> So, I took some pictures of my convergence issue (attached).
> 
> 
> The first picture shows a shot of the corner of a Media Player Classic window. The text has cleartype enabled, so it's a bad example. But the horizontal white lines of the player, and the yellow lines next to the speaker icon, those show the issue well. I can see the misalignment on the horizontal lines from at least 5 feet away (my normal viewing distance is maybe 7-8 feet, tiny apartment), and it can be distracting when there's, say, white text on a black background, like opening/ending credits of a movie.
> 
> 
> The other two shots are pictures from the projector's built-in pattern (to show it's not a video source issue). I think the last shot is the most telling, because I'm pretty sure that four pixel high horizontal line is only supposed to be two pixels high, and pure white.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I called Epson tech support about it this evening (just got off the phone), and I was a tad annoyed. First of all, they don't let you use their toll-free 800 number. You need a PIN to use that. Normal schmoes only get to use their long-distance support line. Second of all, they said they could only ship a replacement projector by Purolator, despite the fact that Purolator only delivers when I'm at work; I'd have to redirect the package to the closest purolator store, which is nowhere near my house (and would require ~$12 in transit fair just for the two round trips).
> 
> 
> My best option, it seems, is to try to take advantage of Futureshop's 30-day return policy to get a replacement to see if it improves the situation. That's much more convenient than purolator... ugh.



thats pretty bad

replace it


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spaceace414* /forum/post/21552864
> 
> 
> I don't think it is the screen...as I had this same problem with the older Sanyo. I will know more when I bring home the other BR player from the mountains. This is my second 8350 this year...probably replaced the other one about six months ago. I still may try the compressed air first if no one thinks it will hurt anything.
> 
> .



I would Remove the Lamp assembly first, and then direct my efforts into the Light Path. Blowing compressed air in from the front would almost assuredly force any Dust that has already intruded further into the machine. Also, have someone hold the PJ inverted and at a angle away from the direction your spraying, while you spray from underneath


----------



## hallifallen

Hi guys. I got this projector on tuesday and I'm absolutely loving it.


One thing that bugs me though is the blue light that comes from power button on the projector itself. I have disabled it when the projector is running, but when I shut it down the light reappears. Is there any way to turn that light off completely without flicking the switch at the back of the unit? I sleep right under it and in a completely dark room this light is very annoying when trying to sleep


----------



## slybarman

Nothing a strip of electrical tape can't fix.


----------



## srauly

Has anyone had success using the 8350 with an HTPC and a custom resolution of 1920x800? I'm still mulling over the idea of going with a 2.35:1 (or thereabouts) screen. Most of my movie watching would be via XBMC on an Acer Revo, and live TV/DVR watching (less often) which I'm currently doing via an XBox 360 as an extender, but could also do via the Revo. When switching between 16:9 and 2.35:1 content, I could manually zoom/shift the 8350, which would give me the full 1080p resolution for 16:9 content, but I'd also like to see if it's possible to just leave the projector set for the 2.35:1 screen and use some manner of scaling on the Revo to downscale the 16:9 image. Yes, I would lose lines of resolution, but I'd like to try it.


Anyway, I believe that XBMC already has some built-in capabilities to allow me to rescale movies (on a movie-by-movie basis, even), but I don't believe that Windows Media Center will let me do that (I'll experiment later to be sure). From what I understand, one way that I should be able to get both to work would be to create a custom resolution of 1920x800 on my computer and output that to the 8350. But my initial attempts at doing so failed. I went into the Revo's NVIDIA control panel and created the resolution, but when I clicked 'Apply' the screen went black for 30 seconds, before returning (at the previous resolution) and asking me if it worked.


I've read about owners of other projectors (e.g., Mitsubishi hc4000) having success with custom resolutions, but I haven't come across anything similar from owners of the Epson 8350.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21516515
> 
> 
> Fired up the replacement PJ last night and it looks like a keeper. I could tell the box was not new because it wasn't sealed the same way, but upon inspection of the PJ itself, it was definitely in "like new" condition. Watched Moneyball and couldn't see any difference in brightness or issues with the image. Will have to watch some TV and another movie before calling it good.
> 
> 
> Checked the lamp and it read 0H. Again, I don't have any light measurement tools, but the light output looks the same to me. Cinema is fantastic (and bright) with lights off, Living Room is good with back lights on and Dynamic is usable with all lights on.



Update: I started noticing that the left side of the image is softer than the right. I can only see this with white text on a color background. It looks like there are two images of a character superimposed on each other. On the right side, this superimposition (real word?) is more uniform. On the left side, the superimposition is not aligned as well and the text looks a bit smudged. I believe this is called pixel shift. I can't see this issue when watching non-text, like movies, video games, etc. But the net effect is that text looks slightly brighter on the right side and more dim on the left side (due to softness).


I will probably request a replacement PJ. Btw, the bulb busted while I was testing and they replaced it. New one works fine. Just sharing my experience for others.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hallifallen* /forum/post/21555786
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I got this projector on tuesday and I'm absolutely loving it.
> 
> 
> One thing that bugs me though is the blue light that comes from power button on the projector itself. I have disabled it when the projector is running, but when I shut it down the light reappears. Is there any way to turn that light off completely without flicking the switch at the back of the unit? I sleep right under it and in a completely dark room this light is very annoying when trying to sleep



you should sleep with your eyes closed !!!


i thought there was a setting in the menus about that?

i assumed that was what it was for?

mine isn't set and it stays on but must go off after a while since it's not always on.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guspaz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, I took some pictures of my convergence issue (attached).
> 
> 
> The first picture shows a shot of the corner of a Media Player Classic window. The text has cleartype enabled, so it's a bad example. But the horizontal white lines of the player, and the yellow lines next to the speaker icon, those show the issue well. I can see the misalignment on the horizontal lines from at least 5 feet away (my normal viewing distance is maybe 7-8 feet, tiny apartment), and it can be distracting when there's, say, white text on a black background, like opening/ending credits of a movie.
> 
> 
> The other two shots are pictures from the projector's built-in pattern (to show it's not a video source issue). I think the last shot is the most telling, because I'm pretty sure that four pixel high horizontal line is only supposed to be two pixels high, and pure white.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I called Epson tech support about it this evening (just got off the phone), and I was a tad annoyed. First of all, they don't let you use their toll-free 800 number. You need a PIN to use that. Normal schmoes only get to use their long-distance support line. Second of all, they said they could only ship a replacement projector by Purolator, despite the fact that Purolator only delivers when I'm at work; I'd have to redirect the package to the closest purolator store, which is nowhere near my house (and would require ~$12 in transit fair just for the two round trips).
> 
> 
> My best option, it seems, is to try to take advantage of Futureshop's 30-day return policy to get a replacement to see if it improves the situation. That's much more convenient than purolator... ugh.



Oh, my.


See if any 3-chip PJ regardless of cost will do what you expect a bargain PJ to do as far as displaying text is concerned. If you will be using it as a glorified PC monitor, you really should have gone with a single chip or DLP. I tend to get cranky about this exact thing. It looks just like 50 other screenshots like this I've seen in this thread.


I foresee many returns in your future, and I'm not even physic.


John F


----------



## allbaugh_04

Well I've been waiting for a killer deal, if no one knows of one. I suppose I am going to buy from projector people. I think they are 1099 right now.


Might even be interested in refurbs if they are backed by Epson.


I'd be most thankful for any suggestions on finding the best price. I might stop by best buy and see what they have as well.


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21558298
> 
> 
> Oh, my.
> 
> 
> See if any 3-chip PJ regardless of cost will do what you expect a bargain PJ to do as far as displaying text is concerned. If you will be using it as a glorified PC monitor, you really should have gone with a single chip or DLP. I tend to get cranky about this exact thing. It looks just like 50 other screenshots like this I've seen in this thread.
> 
> 
> I foresee many returns in your future, and I'm not even physic.
> 
> 
> John F



If it's as good as it gets, it's as good as it gets; if I get a replacement from futureshop and it has the same problem to a similar degree, I'll just live with it.


I'm not planning on using it as a PC screen (except for playing back video from the PC), but the text is just a convenient example of the convergence issues. It's visible in videos, but less so.


Epson, for their part, claimed when I called them that the three subpixels should be on top of each other with no visible separation. If that's not achievable in the real world, so be it, the image quality is pretty nice. At this point, I'm in more of a "gonna use this for years, make sure it's as good as it gets before return periods expire".


----------



## tatersly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21558965
> 
> 
> Well I've been waiting for a killer deal, if no one knows of one. I suppose I am going to buy from projector people. I think they are 1099 right now.
> 
> 
> Might even be interested in refurbs if they are backed by Epson.
> 
> 
> I'd be most thankful for any suggestions on finding the best price. I might stop by best buy and see what they have as well.



i'm in the same boat as you....looking for that better deal. BUY.COM has it for 1059.00, same with ADORAMA.COM @$1059.00


----------



## isingh

Keep an eye on eBay too, at times you can grab better deals there as well !!


----------



## rakstr

Fry's has the 3010 for $1499

http://www.frys.com/product/6911547


----------



## hemogoblin

First time PJ owner questions. So after a few days with my epson I am in love. But I dont really know the way to work the PJ yet.


1. Is it ok to turn on and off? How much of a time frame should be between the two? Basically I had it on a few hours last nite, then went to go pick up some food and didnt know if I should leave it on or off. I was going to be gone about an hour and right back to the PJ. So I left it on.


2. Kind of related to the first question. But does the PJ automatically shut off when not in use? I think it turned off when I turned off the source and left the unit on to go eat.


3. When changing image settings, does it carry over to every input? Like if I have a saved memory setting that I set for HDMI 2, and I switch to component, will the saved setting be the same?


4. Does altering the RGBYCM settings change the entire pj? Or does each memory setting have its own RGBCYM settings?


5. Does the Epson bulb warranty cover simply using the bulb too much? Or is it only if its defective and blows. Like if my bulb lasts the supposed 3000 hours, but I use that in a month, will Epson cover that? Or is it just wear and I need to buy a bulb.


6. Most settings seem pretty dark besides Dynamic and Living Room. Is theater black and theater out of the box supposed to be so dark?


----------



## ocelittle

I got my Epson today. Sweet sweet pj.


However, I'm having trouble with my Denon receive (1709) and my two game consoles using Component.


My PS3 is fine with HDMI, but I can only get sound through the other two. No picture.


I tried going around the receiver with the Xbox 360 cables, but was greeted with "SOURCE: COMPONENT NOT SUPPORTED".


What the?


Now it just says No Signal again.


What's going on?


----------



## ocelittle

Okay, so it's definitely not the projector.


I plugged the 360 into another TV, chnaged the setting to 720p and put it on the Epson with no problems


It's just this crappy receiver


----------



## derekroye

love the pictures that you took. What type of screen are you using. Also, what is your throw range for the projector. I am looking at 13' for mine. About 87" from the floor mounted to the ceiling. any advice?


----------



## White Noise

I received my 8350 on Friday. Set it up yesterday and took a few pictures. I haven't tweaked most of the settings yet. This is cinema mode with 7500k. Iris on, and super white on.


Yes I chose Avatar. lol


----------



## nortrix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21380719
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> Auto Iris Off or Normal
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> 
> 
> PS3 Settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Limited
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On



I just added these settings and used the first Pirates bluRay as reference. I am very impressed with Red jackets and fleshtones together. I can still make out strands of hair in front of a dark wall as well. I think I'll be using this setup as my primary. Would it be a good idea to use these with Dynamic for TV watching? I might try it. Thanks Droid.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nortrix* /forum/post/21567709
> 
> 
> I just added these settings and used the first Pirates bluRay as reference. I am very impressed with Red jackets and fleshtones together. I can still make out strands of hair in front of a dark wall as well. I think I'll be using this setup as my primary. Would it be a good idea to use these with Dynamic for TV watching? I might try it. Thanks Droid.



Why would you use someone else's settings? The PJ is a consumer product, meaning its tolerances and unit variance is rather large. Even if you had a PJ that performs identically to the one Droid6 has, your screen, ambient light, and viewing surroundings are different.


----------



## White Noise




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21567894
> 
> 
> Why would you use someone else's settings? The PJ is a consumer product, meaning its tolerances and unit variance is rather large. Even if you had a PJ that performs identically to the one Droid6 has, your screen, ambient light, and viewing surroundings are different.



Why does it matter? If he wants to try someone else's settings and he's happier with them then what he was using then why do you even care?


More power to him. And for the record many people on this site share settings for projectors and tv's.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21567894
> 
> 
> Why would you use someone else's settings? The PJ is a consumer product, meaning its tolerances and unit variance is rather large. Even if you had a PJ that performs identically to the one Droid6 has, your screen, ambient light, and viewing surroundings are different.



Even with a different screen (providing it's not grey and maybe even if it is) using those cal settings are going to be more accurate than what you can get right out of the box. Technically you're right, they won't yield him the same results but they will be much better than stock.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White Noise* /forum/post/21568003
> 
> 
> Why does it matter? If he wants to try someone else's settings and he's happier with them then what he was using then why do you even care?
> 
> 
> More power to him. And for the record many people on this site share settings for projectors and tv's.



Ignorance is a bliss.


It matters only if someone cares about image quality. If someone bothers enough to look for and copy settings off a forum, I assume they care about image quality. Yet it takes only slightly more effort to do proper basic calibration - and you'll actually get results which look better, rather than almost-guaranteed disaster of copied settings.


I've no horse in that race, but it's tiring to read these kinds of comments year after year, and to see people post photographs of screens which serve no purpose other than telling how "great" one's movie tastes are or how impressive their HT setup is.


Ok, who pissed in my coffee?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nortrix* /forum/post/21567709
> 
> 
> Would it be a good idea to use these with Dynamic for TV watching?



They will probably look like a mess using Dynamic, I've been meaning to calibrate Dynamic for those who use that setting for daytime viewing but seeing as I personally never use it I can't find the motivation to do a serious calibration to get it done.


----------



## uncola

Ordered the epson 8350 tonight for my first projector. Originally I went with the viewsonic pro8200 but I realized with the small bedroom I was thinking of using it in, I really needed lens shift and zoom to get it right


----------



## titch--

I did a little search but didnt find exactly what I was looking for


With the guys running Seymour CS XD diy screens, what kind of tilt did you go with? Some people say 15 degrees is good enough some say 20 is required???


----------



## oresteez

Hi all,

I guess its time to say hi to my new family!

After much discussion in another thread, I decided the 8350 will be best for me. That lens shift is going to be a must for my particular setup....oh, and no interest financing at best buy for 3 years was a big help, considering my original budget was going to be half the cost of the 8350!


I turned it on last night and just used it on a TV/tray table, setup at my intended throw distance (just not at the height I ultimately want...)

Looks great! The lens shift is awesome. Its going to prove invaluable to me, because I'm going to want to move my picture up and down the wall, depending on what I'm projecting. (the main issue will be when I use the Xbox Kinect.... I can move the image higher so heads do not get in the way!)


So my only surprise, which is my fault, was that there was absolutely no sound...I didn't realize there were no onboard speakers. That's fine, I was not going to rely on that, it just sped up my need for a new receiver that supports HDMI. I just went to Best Buy at lunch time and picked up a Yamaha RX-V467BL. It was on clearance for $119. Its not recent, but I don't have huge sound demands...its not a big room. I just want to hook up my xbox to it for now, maybe a blue ray player at some point, and the wii.


I did not find the fans to be loud, I barely noticed it and I was watching TV (via the FIOS app on the xbox) in silence!


TV was watchable with all of the lights on. (i'm not even going to bother talking about the quality when the lights are off, we all know that its awesome). I turned on Skyrim (game on xbox) and was unable to play that with the lights on. (it was very bright in the room at the time). I'm not sure if it had to do with the fact that it was a dark area in the game ..I'll experiment some more with that. And I'm able to control the lighting very well in the room, so I'll be able to run some more scenarios with that as well.


Any questions/comments/ suggestions are appreciated.


My next order of business will be mounting it.


My original plan was to shelf mount it, my walls are 11.5 feet apart and 8.5 feet high.

It would be easier to just mount it right side up and use the lens shift to lower the image, but I would imagine that means I'm going to need a very deep shelf, to accomodate the depth of the projector, plus some breathing space in the back.


MM suggested a very high shelf and then a discreet ceiling mount under the shelf...I might go with that option as well if it works out better. At least it would give me easier access to the lens shift dials.

Quick question, how many inches do you think is acceptable to give for breathing room, in the back of the unit? (distance from back of unit to the wall)?


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21568092
> 
> 
> They will probably look like a mess using Dynamic, I've been meaning to calibrate Dynamic for those who use that setting for daytime viewing but seeing as I personally never use it I can't find the motivation to do a serious calibration to get it done.



Do it, Do it! Superbowl is this Sunday, and every living room in america is going to be set to dynamic while the game is on.










At least I know mine will be. I too used Droids settings as a base, and made adjustments for my setup as necesarry.


----------



## midblue

Hi all,


Just got my 8350 today. So far it is pretty great, I am just projecting on a wall for now though, I want to test out some potential screen sizes before constructing a DIY screen.


I do have one issue though, and it seems to be similar to Guspaz's problem on the last couple pages: *Convergence*.


I have attached a few pictures of my convergence issue, it looks like the red pixel is clearly almost 1 pixel off. This is projecting straight at the wall, no lens shift, color mode Dynamic. Source is a computer over HDMI. The issue is present on the projector's test pattern too.

​ Text on White Background[/URL] 
​ white line test pattern from XBMC[/URL] 
​ black and white checkerboard test pattern from XBMC[/URL] 


Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? Is this level of convergence problem common, or should I try to get it replaced?


Thanks!!


----------



## gazzagazza

Midblue... Your convergence is normal and in spec. Does it show at normal viewing distance on video?


----------



## oresteez

What's everyone using as far as cables?

I found a 25 foot HDMI cable on amazon for pretty cheap...
http://www.amazon.com/Link-Depot-HDM...7963241&sr=1-1 


How's that for running from my receiver to the projector...

(speaking of, I haven't decided on how to do that.....

my two extremes:


A-getting an area rug for the middle of the room, the wire runs under the area rug and then up the wall. (under the rug, I have to figure out a way to protect it from getting stepped also..)


B-wire goes through the floor into the basement, across to the other side of the room, then back up through the floor to the projector...which then gets fished through the wall and back out, or I just run it up the wall and buy something to make it discreet)


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oresteez* /forum/post/21572449
> 
> 
> What's everyone using as far as cables?
> 
> I found a 25 foot HDMI cable on amazon for pretty cheap...
> http://www.amazon.com/Link-Depot-HDM...7963241&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> How's that for running from my receiver to the projector...
> 
> (speaking of, I haven't decided on how to do that.....
> 
> my two extremes:
> 
> 
> A-getting an area rug for the middle of the room, the wire runs under the area rug and then up the wall. (under the rug, I have to figure out a way to protect it from getting stepped also..)
> 
> 
> B-wire goes through the floor into the basement, across to the other side of the room, then back up through the floor to the projector...which then gets fished through the wall and back out, or I just run it up the wall and buy something to make it discreet)



I'm running everything through the walls. It'll cost a little bit of money, but I think it'll be worth the effort. My friend is good with drywall, so he'll be helping me out.


Going to try this cable. Says it's certified to run up to 1440p. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3TG9YEWX61L6A


----------



## mekkerl

Monoprice for all your cables! Great quality and much more affordable than other 'stores'...


----------



## midblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21572360
> 
> 
> Midblue... Your convergence is normal and in spec. Does it show at normal viewing distance on video?



It is visible on dark scenes with white patches, such as star fields or movie credits. But maybe I'm just looking too hard for it now?










Are you sure this is "normal" though? I'd believe that it's within manufacturing specifications, but "normal" seems like a stretch. Horizontal convergence is perfect, if I use a vertical white stripe pattern there is no overlap, it's only vertical convergence where there's a problem.


Guspaz, if you're still around this thread, did you end up sending yours back?


----------



## falcons17

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and have found it very helpful. I too am looking at buying an 8350 and was going to package it with an elunevision screen through Eastporters. I read on the Epson website (and on here earlier in the thread) that Eastporters is not an authorized dealer....Just curious as to how this affects the warranty. Will Epson no longer warranty the product if bought through them? Or does Eastporters have their own warranty? Has anyone had to use the warranty after buying from them and if so, how did it go. I am just a little hesitant to buy from them not knowing their reputation.


Thanks to all in advance!


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *midblue* /forum/post/21571624
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 today. So far it is pretty great, I am just projecting on a wall for now though, I want to test out some potential screen sizes before constructing a DIY screen.
> 
> 
> I do have one issue though, and it seems to be similar to Guspaz's problem on the last couple pages: *Convergence*.
> 
> 
> I have attached a few pictures of my convergence issue, it looks like the red pixel is clearly almost 1 pixel off. This is projecting straight at the wall, no lens shift, color mode Dynamic. Source is a computer over HDMI. The issue is present on the projector's test pattern too.
> 
> ​ Text on White Background[/URL]
> ​ white line test pattern from XBMC[/URL]
> ​ black and white checkerboard test pattern from XBMC[/URL]
> 
> 
> Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? Is this level of convergence problem common, or should I try to get it replaced?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!



Wow! The 8350 is at the top of my list but if that convergence is considered normal, I might as well start looking elsewhere. Seriously, the first photo with the "Resolution" text is worse than my 9 year old 65" RPTV! I don't know what to say about the next two photos. They are beyond awful. I'll be the first to admit I don't yet have a projector, so I hope I'm not putting too much stock into these close up photos. I know there's a lot of talk about how good of a return policy Epson has. I would definitely consider this strike one and see what they pitch at you next!


----------



## gazzagazza

If it is indeed just 1-2 pixels out it is normal. How close do you sit to a 100+" screen?


What does the projectors own test pattern look like?


----------



## nortrix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21568080
> 
> 
> Even with a different screen (providing it's not grey and maybe even if it is) using those cal settings are going to be more accurate than what you can get right out of the box. Technically you're right, they won't yield him the same results but they will be much better than stock.





Anyway, I have my own settings using Avia, and DVE thanks, Just thought I would try these. I have A 1.0 Gain 106" screen with the 8350 about 13' back in a light controlled room. The only thing I noticed the green was a little more prominent. and I only did -1 Tint


I like to switch through setting during different viewings.


What else is this forum for but not to try things. Don't read this if you are TIRED or easily offended.


Superbowl is ready to rock.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1385231


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oresteez* /forum/post/21572449
> 
> 
> What's everyone using as far as cables?
> 
> I found a 25 foot HDMI cable on amazon for pretty cheap...
> http://www.amazon.com/Link-Depot-HDM...7963241&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> How's that for running from my receiver to the projector...
> 
> (speaking of, I haven't decided on how to do that.....
> 
> my two extremes:
> 
> 
> A-getting an area rug for the middle of the room, the wire runs under the area rug and then up the wall. (under the rug, I have to figure out a way to protect it from getting stepped also..)
> 
> 
> B-wire goes through the floor into the basement, across to the other side of the room, then back up through the floor to the projector...which then gets fished through the wall and back out, or I just run it up the wall and buy something to make it discreet)



You can spend a lot on cables if you want to buy snake oil.


Another vote for Monoprice, great quality with good prices and no BS. I think my longest HDMI one is 10 meters, and it pushes 1080p with no issues.


Yes, this one: HDMI Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (for In-Wall Installation) Cable (24AWG) - 35ft (Gold Plated)


----------



## Larry Sutliff

I'm considering buying this projector next week. I would like something better, but the funds won't allow it at this time. I currently have the Sanyo PLV-Z700, which has weak black levels. Would the Epson be an improvement in this department, or should I look for something else? Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## oresteez

I love monoprice too......HOWEVER,

the link I posted to the 25 foot cable on amazon is only $6...

Almost all of the HDMI 25 foot cables I'm finding on monoprice are over $20...what gives?


Is the amazon one crap?


Also deciding whether I should run component cables from the Wii to the projector or just buy a Wii/HDMI adapter, so I can hook it up to the HDMI capable receiver with everything else...


Also.....I am pretty sure I looked thoroughly,...I know some of these questions are not really 8350 related...they are more of a general type question...is there a forum that is just related to installation questions? I didn't really notice one...


Ok I backed up 1 level , and I see a DIY thread that might be better for these questions


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oresteez* /forum/post/21575395
> 
> 
> I love monoprice too......HOWEVER,
> 
> the link I posted to the 25 foot cable on amazon is only $6...
> 
> Almost all of the HDMI 25 foot cables I'm finding on monoprice are over $20...what gives?
> 
> 
> Is the amazon one crap?
> 
> 
> Also deciding whether I should run component cables from the Wii to the projector or just buy a Wii/HDMI adapter, so I can hook it up to the HDMI capable receiver with everything else...
> 
> 
> Also.....I am pretty sure I looked thoroughly,...I know some of these questions are not really 8350 related...they are more of a general type question...is there a forum that is just related to installation questions? I didn't really notice one...
> 
> 
> Ok I backed up 1 level , and I see a DIY thread that might be better for these questions



Monoprice's items are great quality at a great price. Never had a problem. They are reputable. I've done a dozen orders through them and they have great service if you ever need to ask them a question.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Hello all, I havent been on here in over a year. I recently moved into new house and due to no longer having a dedicated room i now have to use my livingroom as my bigscreen room. I bought the 8350 from BB last week. I upgraded from an hc1500 which has served me very well for gaming, movies, and superbowl. I decided on the 8350 over my hc1500 strictly due to the lens shift as my old mits would of had to of been right in the middle of my living room either ceiling mounted or on table. Neither one was a viable option. So immediately upon just blasting it on screen from a table just to check it out i did notice that the image is softer than my mits. But picture wise the upgrade to 1080 was very noticeable to me. I dont know if it had as much "pop" but the details and color seemed like a different beast to me. After all this talk and reading this forum through though now i know why i stayed away. Now i sit at work thinking my first point of business when i get home is to throw up a test pattern and examine the convergence issues to see if it affects mine or not lol. These forums can be a great help but also can drive a person mad looking for problems they may have never noticed before..


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *falcons17* /forum/post/21572890
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I am new to this forum and have found it very helpful. I too am looking at buying an 8350 and was going to package it with an elunevision screen through Eastporters. I read on the Epson website (and on here earlier in the thread) that Eastporters is not an authorized dealer....Just curious as to how this affects the warranty. Will Epson no longer warranty the product if bought through them? Or does Eastporters have their own warranty? Has anyone had to use the warranty after buying from them and if so, how did it go. I am just a little hesitant to buy from them not knowing their reputation.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all in advance!



I doubt Epson will honor the warranty. They are not an authorized dealer.


Are you in Canada? If so, try Quebec Acoustic. They are an authorized Epson dealer, and they have great service. Richard is very helpful.


----------



## midblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gazzagazza* /forum/post/21573698
> 
> 
> What does the projectors own test pattern look like?


 ​ it is...[/URL] Sorry for the quality as I took the photo rather hastily this morning, but as you can see, horizontally the convergence is mostly fine, the vertical line in the photo is all white, but the vertical convergence causes big problems with the horizontal line.


I would just like some further confirmation that this is considered "normal"... do other people out there see things like this on their test pattern? Close-up pics of other people's test patterns would be awesome.


I have read here that Epson's warranty does indeed cover convergence... if I RMA'd it, do they ship the new projector first so I could compare results, or do you have to send yours back first? I don't want to be stuck with one that is even worse.


----------



## mbrennem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oresteez* /forum/post/21575395
> 
> 
> Is the amazon one crap?



If it was only a 6-foot cable it would probably be fine but once you get up to 20' and more, you might have trouble getting a 1080p signal to sync unless you get a good quality cable.


I would spend the $20-30 at monoprice instead of taking a chance on Amazon. The difference in cost is peanuts compared to the cost of the projector.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *midblue* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Just got my 8350 today. So far it is pretty great, I am just projecting on a wall for now though, I want to test out some potential screen sizes before constructing a DIY screen.
> 
> 
> I do have one issue though, and it seems to be similar to Guspaz's problem on the last couple pages: Convergence.
> 
> 
> I have attached a few pictures of my convergence issue, it looks like the red pixel is clearly almost 1 pixel off. This is projecting straight at the wall, no lens shift, color mode Dynamic. Source is a computer over HDMI. The issue is present on the projector's test pattern too.
> 
> ​ Text on White Background[/URL]
> ​ white line test pattern from XBMC[/URL]
> ​ black and white checkerboard test pattern from XBMC[/URL]
> 
> 
> Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? Is this level of convergence problem common, or should I try to get it replaced?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!



Looks better than average. Of course, I'm guy here who enjoys watching movies rather than and pixel peeking. "Almost 1 pixel off" - return, or sell, then buy a single chip or DLP. That way when you get your face up to the screen to inspect a thin horizontal line for some reason, you won't be annoyed .


Dynamic will exacerbate that effect by the way. If it looks as good as it does in Dynamic, I doubt you'll see anything objectionable in a mode you will actually use.


OK, time for me to take another few months away from this thread. Right now I'm going to go watch a movie.


----------



## midblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21577374
> 
> 
> Looks better than average. Of course, I'm guy here who enjoys watching movies rather than and pixel peeking.



I'm a guy who enjoys watching movies too. I won't be "pixel peeking" once I have everything set up and ready for movie time. But let's be honest, we all enjoy squeezing the best performance possible out of our components. We are all enthusiasts here, that is why we subscribe to AVSForum







We strive for perfection in our home theaters, down to the last pixel, so I think my complaint is legitimate.


I've heard that argument before, "well then buy a single chip, or spend more money", but I don't think that's a valid response - I did my research, I read all the reviews, but no reviews mention "The convergence is frequently off on these units by 1-2 pixels". That may have affected my buying decision. Maybe this isn't a $25k Runco projector, but as another poster said, old LCD RPTVs have better convergence alignment than that so I don't think it's too much to ask.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21577374
> 
> 
> Dynamic will exacerbate that effect by the way. If it looks as good as it does in Dynamic, I doubt you'll see anything objectionable in a mode you will actually use.



Thanks, that's good advice - I'm just testing on Dynamic for now but I'll probably be running it on Natural once I get the screen in, so I'll take a look tonight using Natural.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

hi midblue...i will tell you i bought my projector saturday and after reading your thread on here i too went home and examined my screen on the projector pattern screen.. i can tell you mine looks EXACTLY like yours....now wether or not this is acceptable and normal i do not now? any of you professionals know any more...im coming from a dlp and never had to look for such a thing lol


----------



## gazzagazza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *midblue* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ​ it is...[/URL] Sorry for the quality as I took the photo rather hastily this morning, but as you can see, horizontally the convergence is mostly fine, the vertical line in the photo is all white, but the vertical convergence causes big problems with the horizontal line.
> 
> 
> I would just like some further confirmation that this is considered "normal"... do other people out there see things like this on their test pattern? Close-up pics of other people's test patterns would be awesome.
> 
> 
> I have read here that Epson's warranty does indeed cover convergence... if I RMA'd it, do they ship the new projector first so I could compare results, or do you have to send yours back first? I don't want to be stuck with one that is even worse.



It looks within spec to me. 1-2 pixels is within spec. Changing it is a roll of the dice.


If you need perfect static convergence you need dlp. It shifts the misconvergence to the time domain which I find intolerable.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

So just out of curiousity here. All of this convergence talk on here has got my attention if people are just ghost hunting. I remember my first projector bought was the sony aw-15 i had it for a day and kind of remember seeing up close a purple tinge around the letters when up close. I ended up returning it for a mits hc1500 not due to that issue(i assumed it was normal) but due to its brightness levels. The hc1500 was alot brighter and after purchasing noticed the image alot sharper. I recently upgraded to the 8350 due to placement constraints in my new house and have watched a few blu rays and im totally satisfied. I see no need to return or try to swap out for better but i am just curious are there lcds such as ours where if you stuck your nose right up to a 100 inch screen that you are only in all reality going to see only white horizontally and vertically. My projector with my nose to the screen i can see on the horizontal line a slight green above and purple below the lines at the top and bottom of the test screen. The vertical lines are perfectly white all the way across. As ive said i have no issues from my seating position and all text looks white and clear and movies look great. Are people just looking for something that doesnt exist with this technology or is mine a "flawed" system itself also.


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside* /forum/post/21580210
> 
> 
> So just out of curiousity here. All of this convergence talk on here has got my attention if people are just ghost hunting. I remember my first projector bought was the sony aw-15 i had it for a day and kind of remember seeing up close a purple tinge around the letters when up close. I ended up returning it for a mits hc1500 not due to that issue(i assumed it was normal) but due to its brightness levels. The hc1500 was alot brighter and after purchasing noticed the image alot sharper. I recently upgraded to the 8350 due to placement constraints in my new house and have watched a few blu rays and im totally satisfied. I see no need to return or try to swap out for better but i am just curious are there lcds such as ours where if you stuck your nose right up to a 100 inch screen that you are only in all reality going to see only white horizontally and vertically. My projector with my nose to the screen i can see on the horizontal line a slight green above and purple below the lines at the top and bottom of the test screen. The vertical lines are perfectly white all the way across. As ive said i have no issues from my seating position and all text looks white and clear and movies look great. Are people just looking for something that doesnt exist with this technology or is mine a "flawed" system itself also.



Well I personally don't care what it looks like from 3" away. But I will go to the theatre this weekend and report what their 100k projectors can do at 3".


----------



## keithrwhiteside

lmao thats funny i can picture someone with there nose to the movie screen at theatre looking for something hahahahaha... dont get me wrong im not looking for anything im perfectly happy with the picture im getting lol ive just read alot of people switching and swapping models for this "issue". Is it like chasing the white whale...Does a "perfect" model really exist or is it now that people see it as an "issue" because its in the threads it fuels their ocd to find the perfect model.


----------



## tommyv2

Perfectly converged models do exist! I had an Epson 6100 that was perfect. Even better than perfect are projectors that have user alignment, like my current Sony. I spent a little while doing it, but there is zero misconvergence to speak of. Every manufacturer needs to add this feature, because I'm sure it stops a lot of returns and those with buyer's remorse.


----------



## gene9p

no remorse here..watched REAL STEEL on blu ray followed by THE NEW YORK RANGERS game...I take it back...the Rangers lost..LOL


----------



## oresteez

I was at the game last night, and as good as it looks on a giant screen, seeing the Devils WIN the shootout live was even better! Muahahaha


----------



## midblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside* /forum/post/21577937
> 
> 
> hi midblue...i will tell you i bought my projector saturday and after reading your thread on here i too went home and examined my screen on the projector pattern screen.. i can tell you mine looks EXACTLY like yours....now wether or not this is acceptable and normal i do not now? any of you professionals know any more...im coming from a dlp and never had to look for such a thing lol



Keith, thanks for your reply. Sorry if I forever doomed you to seeing this problem










You asked if wanting perfect convergence is like chasing a white whale, well, I guess that was what I was hoping to figure out. It seems like from the posts here what I'm seeing is not totally out of the ordinary and I'd be gambling if I got a replacement. I'm gonna stick with it for a while and see if I can live with it, I think my desire to make my new product perfect will wane after I sit down and just enjoy watching movies for a while.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

So just for Shts and giggles i posted my convergence.. Idk if its considered excellent,average,bad or horrendous? I do know i watched transformers last night on bluray and it looked ten times better than what it looked like at theater. Sorry pictures are not great i took them with my iphone.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Just a quick note. The only thing i see different from my old dlp with consistent white lines is on this model if you stick your face in the screen lol you can see on the epson test screen and on text that on the horizontal line on test screen it is more of a purplish then white then green.. the vertical line is all white. I am assuming the horizontal line is 3 pixels wide? Idk lol. And on the menus if i stick my nose in screen again the letters have a purple haze at bottom of letter and green at top of letters. Beats me!


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oresteez* /forum/post/21580635
> 
> 
> I was at the game last night, and as good as it looks on a giant screen, seeing the Devils WIN the shootout live was even better! Muahahaha




NNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO......










hey fix the glass will you!


----------



## Gertjan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21568080
> 
> 
> Even with a different screen (providing it's not grey and maybe even if it is) using those cal settings are going to be more accurate than what you can get right out of the box. Technically you're right, they won't yield him the same results but they will be much better than stock.



This. I am using Droid's settings, and they're much better than the out-of-the-box settings or what i was able to do by eye. They'll do nicely until i get my own colorimeter. Thanks for sharing them Droid


----------



## smokarz

should i buy this or a refub 8100 for $800?


any big difference in terms of PQ between the two?


thanks


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21586197
> 
> 
> should i buy this or a refub 8100 for $800?
> 
> 
> any big difference in terms of PQ between the two?
> 
> 
> thanks



I would say yes. Better contrast and black levels because of the switch to the inorganic D7 panels. I think the extra few hundred is worth it. Plus, you'll be getting a brand spanking new PJ. I went from a 6100 to an 8350, and I thought it was a nice upgrade.


----------



## smokarz

thanks.


also, i've hearing quite a bit about the 8100 having blown bulbs before 700 hours?


does the 8350 uses the same bulb as the 8100?


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21588492
> 
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> also, i've hearing quite a bit about the 8100 having blown bulbs before 700 hours?
> 
> 
> does the 8350 uses the same bulb as the 8100?



all the 8000 series Epsons use the same bulb


----------



## IFLOPPEDITSUCKER

Help! I ordered a new bulb through BB as I ought the warranty. What they sent was a ELPLP39 but what came out of the pj is an ELPLP49. Did BB screw up and send me the wrong lamp?


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IFLOPPEDITSUCKER* /forum/post/21588973
> 
> 
> Help! I ordered a new bulb through BB as I ought the warranty. What they sent was a ELPLP39 but what came out of the pj is an ELPLP49. Did BB screw up and send me the wrong lamp?



yep wrong lamp


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21588492
> 
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> also, i've hearing quite a bit about the 8100 having blown bulbs before 700 hours?
> 
> 
> does the 8350 uses the same bulb as the 8100?



I have 810 hours in 2 1/2 months on my 8350's lamp, and it's still perfectly fine. I watch it in Cinema mode on high.


----------



## oresteez




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21590170
> 
> 
> I have 810 hours in 2 1/2 months on my 8350's lamp, and it's still perfectly fine. I watch it in Cinema mode on high.



someone mentioned in another thread (the title has something about "bulb life" in it...

that Epson changed the model/brand of lamp they use about 4-6 months ago, and ever since, the performance seems better.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21586197
> 
> 
> should i buy this or a refub 8100 for $800?
> 
> 
> any big difference in terms of PQ between the two?
> 
> 
> thanks


 http://www.frys.com/product/6949887?...20page:fri_p10 


Ad says Free Shipping (online only) - http://www.frys.com/ads/page13


----------



## hemogoblin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21591052
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/6949887?...20page:fri_p10
> 
> 
> Ad says Free Shipping (online only) - http://www.frys.com/ads/page13



Good find.


----------



## uncola

My 8350 and elite 92" screen just got delivered! I'm excited! My first projector!

Here's a pic of the room I'm going to put it in. I know I might get some comments about smallness of the room or family photos but I don't care 


http://imgur.com/YQiGol.jpg%5B/IMG%5D


----------



## Allforce

Why'd you buy a screen? The 8350 will look great throwing an image on that wallpaper!


----------



## lespurgeon

Nice looking family, but you may get some real contrast problems off of those sheets (kidding, but you asked for it).


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21594286
> 
> 
> My 8350 and elite 92" screen just got delivered! I'm excited! My first projector!
> 
> Here's a pic of the room I'm going to put it in. I know I might get some comments about smallness of the room or family photos but I don't care
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/YQiGol.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



what's the size of that room?

I am starting to paint what I have ended up in

the spare bedroom 13 by 14...


----------



## uncola

Just got the projector set up, projecting onto a white wall.. I'm SO satisfied. Going to set up my elite screens screen on sunday.



http://imgur.com/c1AXEl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



http://imgur.com/Lwfz8l.jpg%5B/IMG%5D


----------



## srauly

XBMC FTW!


Since you already had a white wall, you might have wanted to just test it out on that first so that you could decide whether you needed a screen at all and, if so, what size you wanted to go with. But you already bought the screen, so it's a moot point now.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21595387
> 
> 
> Just got the projector set up, projecting onto a white wall.. I'm SO satisfied. Going to set up my elite screens screen on sunday.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/c1AXEl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Lwfz8l.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



What you are playing is a Raiders of the Lost Ark dvd. This is not a blu ray disc. Put on a blu ray disc. The image should be even better.


But I must admit, that image looks really really good for just a dvd.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21596267
> 
> 
> What you are playing is a Raiders of the Lost Ark dvd. This is not a blu ray disc. Put on a blu ray disc. The image should be even better.
> 
> 
> But I must admit, that image looks really really good for just a dvd.



1080p DVD? It's rather obviously a BD rip acquired from, umm, the internet.


And how could you possibly tell anything about the image quality from a 800x600 or so image taken with a digital camera?


----------



## smokarz

8100 for $750 or 8350 for $1100.


damn, decision....decision.....


will i see a $350 difference? ahhhhh


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21596472
> 
> 
> 1080p DVD? It's rather obviously a BD rip acquired from, umm, the internet.
> 
> 
> And how could you possibly tell anything about the image quality from a 800x600 or so image taken with a digital camera?



Not that old argument again.










Listen up, Using the same Camera, same DVD Player or Cable Box, and same content, the differences between a Crappy PJ or Screen and something (PJ or Screen) that is worthy *IS* noticeable.


Frankly, those who claim otherwise simply DO NOT have the experience in having done such things many, MANY times to be able to make such judgments. I've schooled many on the art of taking "Just as you see 'em" Screen shots, and Brother, until you know what your doing, you most likely don't have a clue as to just how close you can make reality be in a captured image.


Yes, Monitors do vary, and Servers can compress, but the proverbial "Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear" scenario doesn't happen like some would lend you to believe. If a PJ's light output, a Screen's surface reflection, Lens speed, Len's aperture, and the camera's metering are all balanced, and all conditions are always the same, the end result is close enough to make basically sound judgments from.


It's really all about "Truth in Advertising". If a Poster swears that "WYSIWYG", stating otherwise is essentially calling them out as being a Liar at worse, or at best, selling yourself as being able to tell them they haven't a clue as to what really is happening before their own eyes.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21596656
> 
> 
> 8100 for $750 or 8350 for $1100.
> 
> 
> damn, decision....decision.....
> 
> 
> will i see a $350 difference? ahhhhh



yes.....you will. If you can swing the extra Cheese.....8350. No question.


If not, for $750, the 8100 is a steal.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21596769
> 
> 
> Not that old argument again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Listen up, Using the same Camera, same DVD Player or Cable Box, and same content, the differences between a Crappy PJ or Screen and something (PJ or Screen) that is worthy *IS* noticeable.



Not sure what you're arguing about here. Carlos told the PJ owner (uncola) that the PJ owner was watching a DVD and should try a Blu-ray to see how much better the picture would be. Not sure how/why Carlos thought uncola was watching a DVD, as the photo shows the filename which is a long cryptic filename with the text '1080p' and 'mkv' in it so, as jouko342 said, it appears to be a internet-aquired 1080p file. How compressed it might be is unknown, however (we'd need to see the file size to make a guess on that one).


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21596820
> 
> 
> Not sure what you're arguing about here. Carlos told the PJ owner (uncola) that the PJ owner was watching a DVD and should try a Blu-ray to see how much better the picture would be. Not sure how/why Carlos thought uncola was watching a DVD, as the photo shows the filename which is a long cryptic filename with the text '1080p' and 'mkv' in it so, as jouko342 said, it appears to be a internet-aquired 1080p file. How compressed it might be is unknown, however (we'd need to see the file size to make a guess on that one).



I may be mistaken.


I thought it was a dvd because the blu ray of Raiders of the Lost Ark has not been released yet.


I did not see that 1080p designation.


I am a NEWB. Dont you need for the blu ray to be released first for something to be 1080p??


Has Raiders been released in another part of the world as a Blu ray and this is just a copy of that?


Thanks for any info on this. I am confused.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21597227
> 
> 
> I may be mistaken.
> 
> 
> I thought it was a dvd because the blu ray of Raiders of the Lost Ark has not been released yet.
> 
> 
> I did not see that 1080p designation.
> 
> 
> I am a NEWB. Dont you need for the blu ray to be released first for something to be 1080p??
> 
> 
> Has Raiders been released in another part of the world as a Blu ray and this is just a copy of that?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any info on this. I am confused.



its called boot leg copies


----------



## smokarz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21597253
> 
> 
> its called boot leg copies



no it's not.


the pirate bay has it.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21597227
> 
> 
> I may be mistaken.
> 
> 
> I thought it was a dvd because the blu ray of Raiders of the Lost Ark has not been released yet.
> 
> 
> I did not see that 1080p designation.
> 
> 
> I am a NEWB. Dont you need for the blu ray to be released first for something to be 1080p??
> 
> 
> Has Raiders been released in another part of the world as a Blu ray and this is just a copy of that?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any info on this. I am confused.



look at the full filename. it's listed as HDTV meaning it was a rip from a hi-def cable channel. Those have been around for a few years.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan* /forum/post/21596775
> 
> 
> yes.....you will. If you can swing the extra Cheese.....8350. No question.
> 
> 
> If not, for $750, the 8100 is a steal.




MississippiMan:


I am considering getting the Epson 8350.


I have never owned a projector.


I intend to project the image on a 106 inch screen.


According to projector central, the throw distance to achieve that size is 10.4 to 22.1 feet. I will be sitting about 9 to 10 feet away from the screen. I have several questions:


1) I have been reading that there is a sweet spot to this projector as well as projectors in general as far as throw distance. Would this be the middle distance? In other words, would 16 feet be considered the sweet spot? What exactly is meant by sweet spot with regards to projector throw distance?


2) Lets say i have a 106 inch screen. I sit nine or ten feet away from the screen. I put the projector in cinema or natural mode (in bat cave, completely dark conditions). What throw distance should i use with the epson 8350 to achieve the best image (by best i guess i would mean, the brightest, sharpest, most colorful image)


a) the closest 10.4 distance?


b) the middle, about 16 feet? or


c) the farthest 22.1 distance?


3) If the answer to question #2 is (b) 16 feet, how is the image that i achieve at 16 feet going to be better that the one I achieve at 10.4 feet? For both throw distances, I would be sitting the same distance away from the screen, in this case 9 to 10 feet away.


Thank you for any input you can give me.


----------



## Carlos_

Do most high definition channels transmit in 720p or 1080p? I was under the impression that most transmit in 720p and that that was the reason many Blu ray movies look better that their HDTV channel counterparts.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21597450
> 
> 
> Do most high definition channels transmit in 720p or 1080p? I was under the impression that most transmit in 720p and that that was the reason many Blu ray movies look better that their HDTV channel counterparts.



depends, some do put them out in 1080i or 1080p but mostly in 720p. but that is NOT the reason that blu-rays look better. you have to remember that resolution is not the end all be all of video quality. cable tv and streaming services are MASSIVELY bitrate starved. you can't even COMPARE a 7.8 mpbs streaming service vs. a 28-40 mpbs blu ray.


----------



## Peterose2002

The left side of my picture is slanted. I've measured the screen from the ceiling and walk and they seem to be exact. Can't figure it out. The projector and screen is balanced. Any ideas?


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21598255
> 
> 
> depends, some do put them out in 1080i or 1080p but mostly in 720p. but that is NOT the reason that blu-rays look better. you have to remember that resolution is not the end all be all of video quality. cable tv and streaming services are MASSIVELY bitrate starved. you can't even COMPARE a 7.8 mpbs streaming service vs. a 28-40 mpbs blu ray.



This. Also, BDs often have much better audio, DTS HD MA, etc.


----------



## uncola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wormraper* /forum/post/21597317
> 
> 
> look at the full filename. it's listed as HDTV meaning it was a rip from a hi-def cable channel. Those have been around for a few years.



apparently it's from the Wowow channel in japan, they broadcast 1080p so this was the best version I could find.. but yeah I looked on amazon first to check for a blu-ray and there isn't one


----------



## TehNam

Count me in as a new 8350 owner!







My pj arrived today and it is now installed from the ceiling 14' from the wall throwing a 120" image and it looks great! My screen (Elite Sable 120") will not arrive until Monday so I am projecting on flat white paper till then. I really can't imagine that can look better than it does now!


Anyway, thanks to all who have shared their advice, opinions and reviews! I've been lurking and reading for a few weeks and it has really made selecting and installing my equipment easy and trouble free.


I still need to calibrate it, any suggestions in that area?


----------



## jmoakk

Has anyone come up with a method for cleaning the dust blobs out of their projector? I took out the lamp out and took off the top cover. I tried blowing air into any open hole I could find. I still have dust in there somewhere, I can't seem to figure out where.


----------



## jouko342




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TehNam* /forum/post/21598517
> 
> 
> I still need to calibrate it, any suggestions in that area?



Get a calibration puck, it will make a huge difference in image quality. You don't have to spend hundreds on one. It's a lot of work, though.


----------



## vinha916

the screen that i have is 106" and throw 19'. when i watch sport or movie if fast movement it delay or refresh rate is lagging. is there a mode to for this? or is it because of the cable? below is cable that i have.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TehNam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Count me in as a new 8350 owner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My pj arrived today and it is now installed from the ceiling 14' from the wall throwing a 120" image and it looks great! My screen (Elite Sable 120") will not arrive until Monday so I am projecting on flat white paper till then. I really can't imagine that can look better than it does now!
> 
> 
> Anyway, thanks to all who have shared their advice, opinions and reviews! I've been lurking and reading for a few weeks and it has really made selecting and installing my equipment easy and trouble free.
> 
> 
> I still need to calibrate it, any suggestions in that area?



Use the Disney WoW calibration BluRay..I like it better than the HD AV Essentials disk. You think it looks good out of the box, wait until you calibrate that bad boy. Everyone's settings will be unique die to many different variables but I would use the Cinema mode as my starting point for calibration...honestly, I would calibrate it on every setting so you can choose the one that fits best for your lighting conditions. Have fun and carve out an hour or two to calibrate as you will want to listen to the instructions to get it right. Good luck.


----------



## LooseScrews

I am having issues with stutter in my video playback on 8350 with both DVDs and BluRay. Any suggestions on what settings to tweak? Slow moving or low action video looks great, but anything with action or panning has the video playback stutter and very distracting.


My setup is an Epson 8350, Onkyo HT-R680 AV receiver, and Samsung D-6500 player. All HDMI cables with a 25ft HEAVY HDMI cable running from the receiver to the projector.


Any help appreciated!


----------



## mekkerl

^^

Check to see if you have Progressive enabled...if so, this sometimes has a negative affect on sports and fast moving scenes...


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/21598262
> 
> 
> The left side of my picture is slanted. I've measured the screen from the ceiling and walk and they seem to be exact. Can't figure it out. The projector and screen is balanced. Any ideas?




could be the angle you are aiming the projector at the wall....try using the lens shifts to get it aiming straight..also if you have it on a stand, use the level adjustments on the bottom of the projector


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinha916* /forum/post/21599857
> 
> 
> the screen that i have is 106" and throw 19'. when i watch sport or movie if fast movement it delay or refresh rate is lagging. is there a mode to for this? or is it because of the cable? below is cable that i have.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2




a 35 foot cable is a long throw and could be the cause, hard to say...a better high speed cable might do the trick....there is also a motion adjustment on the projector menu..try that first


----------



## uncola

If my source device is a mac mini htpc, does that mean I should change the hdmi color space to expanded on the epson 8350? I don't see any setting to change the color space from full to limited inside os x


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jouko342* /forum/post/21599749
> 
> 
> Get a calibration puck, it will make a huge difference in image quality. You don't have to spend hundreds on one. It's a lot of work, though.



What exactly is a calibration puck?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If my source device is a mac mini htpc, does that mean I should change the hdmi color space to expanded on the epson 8350? I don't see any setting to change the color space from full to limited inside os x



Expanded is correct.


----------



## vinha916




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mekkerl* /forum/post/21599976
> 
> 
> ^^
> 
> Check to see if you have Progressive enabled...if so, this sometimes has a negative affect on sports and fast moving scenes...




the Progressive is gray out, how do you change it?


----------



## vinha916




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21600106
> 
> 
> a 35 foot cable is a long throw and could be the cause, hard to say...a better high speed cable might do the trick....there is also a motion adjustment on the projector menu..try that first



i cant change motion due to grey out on menu


----------



## TehNam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21599878
> 
> 
> Use the Disney WoW calibration BluRay..I like it better than the HD AV Essentials disk. You think it looks good out of the box, wait until you calibrate that bad boy. Everyone's settings will be unique die to many different variables but I would use the Cinema mode as my starting point for calibration...honestly, I would calibrate it on every setting so you can choose the one that fits best for your lighting conditions. Have fun and carve out an hour or two to calibrate as you will want to listen to the instructions to get it right. Good luck.



I'll have to try that, thanks.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21600970
> 
> 
> What exactly is a calibration puck?



I had to ask the same thing, what I found was this:


Using the parameters set in the calibration step, profiling requires using a hardware device, often referred to as a "puck" (a Colorimeter or Spectrophotometer), that hangs over the monitor screen and reads several sets of red, green, blue and grey patches generated by the profiling software. The color patches are measured by the puck as they are displayed. The differences between the colors the monitor displays in its native state and the true colors of the patches are used to create a monitor profile which will cause the monitor to display the true colors more closely than it did in its native state.


----------



## domingos38

does the projector's lenses need to be centered with the screen?


----------



## uncola

domingos38: I'm still a newbie, but no it doesn't have to be centered.. you can use lens shift to move the projected image up/down left/right.. but the more you move it up, the less you can move it left and right..

If you mean does the projector lens have to be facing the wall flat on instead of at an angle, yes it has to be facing straight at the wall.. it can't be diagonal to the surface you're projecting on. you don't move the projected image by tilting the projector, you use it with the lens shift knobs to move the projected image


----------



## gene9p

great game..great picture....GO GIANTS


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Before the game last night we decided to fire up the ps3 and play a few games of madden 12. Upon playing this game for the first time i noticed something that im curious if anyone could give me there input. Ive only watched two movies since picking up last saturday and of course the superbowl. Anyway when i played madden the left side of screen the field was a more id say brownish green and the right side of the field was a greener bluer green. Basically from right to left on the game the field was difference in color. It was massive but it was enough for my eye to notice and then i did notice in superbowl.Of course i was looking for it then. Noone else made any comment about it and probably didnt even notice it. Is this something normal for lcd projectors to have slight color uniformity across the screen?


----------



## gene9p

were you using a screen or a painted wall?. I saw no sign of that other than having to enlarge my painted area where a small section was projected onto the original wall paint.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

i use a screen...it seems to flow from a redish color to a greenish color on a white screen. it is not super bad but now that i have noticed it i "notice" it lol. is this normal for lcd?


----------



## mztik

I bought the Epson 8350 as my first projector a week ago. Having a big picture is an amazing feeling, indeed.







The problem for me is, the picture quality is not that great. Even with no ambient light, it lacks sharpness and color. I have two TV sets that I can compare the same source image, the Panasonic GT25 (2010) and a 4 year old Samsung LCD. Both of these TV sets display the image much better than the Epson 8350. I am definitely doing something wrong or my Epson is faulty.. because I've seen pictures at Amazon and it doesn't look anything like that, unfortunately.










Some info:

- I'm using the following screen:
http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-...dp/B000PHLB88/ 

- The distance throw is about 13 feet, displaying a 120" image.

- I'm using Lens Shift.

- I have made sure the projector is parallel to the screen.


I really don't want to return this thing unless it's faulty. I've been waiting to have my own home theater for a long time. I hope someone has some suggestions/help. Thanks.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mztik* /forum/post/21605926
> 
> 
> I bought the Epson 8350 as my first projector a week ago. Having a big picture is an amazing feeling, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem for me is, the picture quality is not that great. Even with no ambient light, it lacks sharpness and color. I have two TV sets that I can compare the same source image, the Panasonic GT25 (2010) and a 4 year old Samsung LCD. Both of these TV sets display the image much better than the Epson 8350. I am definitely doing something wrong or my Epson is faulty.. because I've seen pictures at Amazon and it doesn't look anything like that, unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some info:
> 
> - I'm using the following screen:
> http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-...dp/B000PHLB88/
> 
> - The distance throw is about 13 feet, displaying a 120" image.
> 
> - I'm using Lens Shift.
> 
> - I have made sure the projector is parallel to the screen.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to return this thing unless it's faulty. I've been waiting to have my own home theater for a long time. I hope someone has some suggestions/help. Thanks.



How much lens shift are you using? Display an image without using lensshift and compare the results, do you see an obvious difference?


Somewhere around here I have a video of my setup, with the lights off, and then me turning the lights on and off to show the difference in image brightness.


Any hint of light in the room is going to decrease the picture quality.


My pitcure quality is amazing, I can turn on 12 recessed lighting cans that bounce the light all over the dang place off my white marble tile and the picture is still bright enough, obviously I prefer the all lights off result much better.


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mztik* /forum/post/21605926
> 
> 
> I bought the Epson 8350 as my first projector a week ago. Having a big picture is an amazing feeling, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem for me is, the picture quality is not that great. Even with no ambient light, it lacks sharpness and color. I have two TV sets that I can compare the same source image, the Panasonic GT25 (2010) and a 4 year old Samsung LCD. Both of these TV sets display the image much better than the Epson 8350. I am definitely doing something wrong or my Epson is faulty.. because I've seen pictures at Amazon and it doesn't look anything like that, unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some info:
> 
> - I'm using the following screen:
> http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-...dp/B000PHLB88/
> 
> - The distance throw is about 13 feet, displaying a 120" image.
> 
> - I'm using Lens Shift.
> 
> - I have made sure the projector is parallel to the screen.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to return this thing unless it's faulty. I've been waiting to have my own home theater for a long time. I hope someone has some suggestions/help. Thanks.




I use these posted by Droid 6

Calibration...

These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.


Natural

Brightness -11

Contrast 8

Color Saturation 0

Tint -2

Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0

Abs. Color Temp. 6500K

Skin Tone 0


Advanced...


Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5


RGB

Offset R 6

Offset G 0

Offset B 23

Gain R -2

Gain G 0

Gain B -25


RGBCMY

R 0 -13 -7

G -37 -49 48

B -7 10 -6

C 0 -41 31

M -16 -9 -16

Y -3 -9 8


Power Consumption ECO

Auto Iris Normal


Signal [Advanced]

Noise Reduction Off

EPSON Super White Off

Overscan Off

HDMI Video Range Expanded


they work for me..but they can't match my Pioneer Kuro plasma... don't expect tv comparison in video quality, but a theater like feel to movies and in the park feel for sports


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mztik* /forum/post/21605926
> 
> 
> I bought the Epson 8350 as my first projector a week ago. Having a big picture is an amazing feeling, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem for me is, the picture quality is not that great. Even with no ambient light, it lacks sharpness and color. I have two TV sets that I can compare the same source image, the Panasonic GT25 (2010) and a 4 year old Samsung LCD. Both of these TV sets display the image much better than the Epson 8350. I am definitely doing something wrong or my Epson is faulty.. because I've seen pictures at Amazon and it doesn't look anything like that, unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some info:
> 
> - I'm using the following screen:
> http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-...dp/B000PHLB88/
> 
> - The distance throw is about 13 feet, displaying a 120" image.
> 
> - I'm using Lens Shift.
> 
> - I have made sure the projector is parallel to the screen.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to return this thing unless it's faulty. I've been waiting to have my own home theater for a long time. I hope someone has some suggestions/help. Thanks.



Which of the following signals are you feeding the projector?


a) A signal from your cable box


b) a signal from a dvd player


c) a signal from a blu ray player playing a blu ray disc or


d) a signal from a blu ray player playing a dvd?


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21606034
> 
> 
> How much lens shift are you using? Display an image without using lensshift and compare the results, do you see an obvious difference?
> 
> 
> Somewhere around here I have a video of my setup, with the lights off, and then me turning the lights on and off to show the difference in image brightness.
> 
> 
> Any hint of light in the room is going to decrease the picture quality.
> 
> 
> My pitcure quality is amazing, I can turn on 12 recessed lighting cans that bounce the light all over the dang place off my white marble tile and the picture is still bright enough, obviously I prefer the all lights off result much better.



Are you projecting the image into a wall or a screen?


Also, if it is a screen, how big is the image?


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p* /forum/post/21606301
> 
> 
> I use these posted by Droid 6
> 
> Calibration...
> 
> These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> 
> 
> they work for me..but they can't match my Pioneer Kuro plasma... don't expect tv comparison in video quality, but a theater like feel to movies and in the park feel for sports




I think that Epson Super White feature is suppossed to be on. Projector Central makes this recommendation in its review at the link below:


http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm 



They also recommend that you engage the auto iris and change the color temperature from 6500 to 7500k.


Read the review and make the changes. Lets us know the results.


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21606571
> 
> 
> I think that Epson Super White feature is suppossed to be on. Projector Central makes this recommendation in its review at the link below:
> 
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epso...tor_review.htm
> 
> 
> 
> They also recommend that you engage the auto iris and change the color temperature from 6500 to 7500k.
> 
> 
> Read the review and make the changes. Lets us know the results.



these are professionally calibrated settings so they are much better and work fine in my set up


----------



## uncola

I just hung my Elite Screens Sable 92" frame today.. I'm very happy with the quality of the screen and frame. Much better than my textured wall, I'll tell you that much







But the guy helping me who was in construction said the drywall anchors included were weak and not good.. so we went to home depot and got stronger 75 pound drywall anchors to use. That was the only issue. Here's a pic:


http://imgur.com/z3m7Nl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D


full size ​
Taken during the day with the curtains drawn in dynamic mode on epson 8350. I have auto iris set to fast, super white on, brightness +1, color temp 7500 and I'm using the lamp in normal mode.. source is a mac mini running xbmc


----------



## allbaugh_04

Two quick questions.


If I want around a 110 to 120" image is 8-9ft going to be back far enough?


Would anyone recommend a screen or just paint my wall white?


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21608265
> 
> 
> Two quick questions.
> 
> 
> If I want around a 110 to 120" image is 8-9ft going to be back far enough?
> 
> 
> Would anyone recommend a screen or just paint my wall white?




According to the throw calculator HERE you will not get that size of screen for that short of throw distance.


To get 110" you would have to be at almost 11' throw distance.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## Yuly

hi, I purchased the Epson 9700 about six months ago (about 1000 hours used) and I recently noticed that on the top left of the projected image I see a small circular section that is a lighter black compared to the rest of the screen. It almost looks like a dust particle, you can only really tell when the full image is black. I cleaned the outside lens and it does not go away.The screen is not the problem, If I revert the image the problem flips to the bottom of the screen.

Any tips on how to fix it?


----------



## ocelittle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21607949
> 
> 
> I just hung my Elite Screens Sable 92" frame today.. I'm very happy with the quality of the screen and frame. Much better than my textured wall, I'll tell you that much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the guy helping me who was in construction said the drywall anchors included were weak and not good.. so we went to home depot and got stronger 75 pound drywall anchors to use. That was the only issue. Here's a pic:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/z3m7Nl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> full size ​
> Taken during the day with the curtains drawn in dynamic mode on epson 8350. I have auto iris set to fast, super white on, brightness +1, color temp 7500 and I'm using the lamp in normal mode.. source is a mac mini running xbmc



Fill the screen, man!


----------



## Larry Sutliff

I just took the plunge and ordered the 8350 from Amazon. I'm replacing a Sanyo PLV-Z700. The Sanyo has a decent picture, but the black levels are mediocre, and it's developing some discoloration on the left side of the screen. I've had it for three years and it was time to replace it. This will do for the time being. I'll check in on the thread after I receive it and let folks know what I think.


----------



## wudevious

Excited to pick this projector up, been watching prices...is it pretty rare for this to drop sub-1k? Amazon is slowly dropping the price but nothing big. I know BF was a great deal, not sure if it will hit that again though. Just got a house so excited to get the home theater finally up!


----------



## TedBaker

Does anyone know where I can go in Los Angeles to see a demo of the 8350?


Thanks much.


----------



## msbklipsch

late post here about the Bowl game

using RS rabbit ears connected to an RS Digital Stream converter box

composite video out into the 8350 and onto a 92" Draper HCG screen

it looked Very Good considering a composite feed


----------



## allbaugh_04

Just got mine in the mail today.


First off, good lord!!! The picture on this thing is amazing. I had a friend over when I hooked it up. We threw the picture a green wall to test it out and we were like, dang that looks good. I later turned on the TV and we were like holy crap at the same time, because it literally looked better than my "46 LCD A550. Couldn't believe it.


I couldn't get it to work through the receiver for some reason (Denon AVR-590), hooked it straight to the computer, worked, then through the receiver again and for some reason it worked after that just fine. Kind of weird, hopefully I'll figure that out or it won't do it again







.


That was using a 35ft HDMI cord. Which is going to be too short. I have a 40ft on the way and that is certified to work, so we'll see.


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ocelittle* /forum/post/21608643
> 
> 
> Fill the screen, man!



How do you turn super white on ? What does it do ?


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21607949
> 
> 
> I just hung my Elite Screens Sable 92" frame today.. I'm very happy with the quality of the screen and frame. Much better than my textured wall, I'll tell you that much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the guy helping me who was in construction said the drywall anchors included were weak and not good.. so we went to home depot and got stronger 75 pound drywall anchors to use. That was the only issue. Here's a pic:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/z3m7Nl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> full size ​
> Taken during the day with the curtains drawn in dynamic mode on epson 8350. I have auto iris set to fast, super white on, brightness +1, color temp 7500 and I'm using the lamp in normal mode.. source is a mac mini running xbmc



You say you are using super white in dynamic mode ? This is from the manual...


On the Home Cinema 8350, this setting can be used only when the signal is input through the

HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 ports with the Color Mode set to Natural or Cinema (see page 28).


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> How do you turn super white on ? What does it do ?



Turning Super White on the projector just dampens contrast. I'm not really sure what it's practical use would be.


----------



## c3k

I've joined the club! Thanks for all the info. You guys pushed me over the edge.


My question: I will be running this projector with a single HDMI input. The HDMI will be switched to different video inputs by a Denon 3312ci AVR. Can I have the 8350 get powered on when the HDMI gets a signal?


If I mount the 8350 behind me, it will be difficult to use a remote.


My newb understanding is HDMI-CEC would allow this type of power-on function.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21614540
> 
> 
> Turning Super White on the projector just dampens contrast. I'm not really sure what it's practical use would be.



From what I've seen Super White seems to stop the highlights from flaring (like actors foreheads and such), even when the contrast is turned up fairly well. It's not available in all modes.


----------



## DGF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21616453
> 
> 
> My question: I will be running this projector with a single HDMI input. The HDMI will be switched to different video inputs by a Denon 3312ci AVR. Can I have the 8350 get powered on when the HDMI gets a signal?
> 
> 
> If I mount the 8350 behind me, it will be difficult to use a remote.
> 
> 
> My newb understanding is HDMI-CEC would allow this type of power-on function.



My 8350 is ceiling mounted behind me - I just point the remote at the screen and the pj responds like a champ (about a 20 foot 'out and back' trip and maybe 5 feet above my seated position).


I can't answer definitively on the HDMI-CEC question, but I have seen absolutely no mention of the projector having this capability.


Dave


----------



## mekkerl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21616453
> 
> 
> I've joined the club! Thanks for all the info. You guys pushed me over the edge.
> 
> 
> My question: I will be running this projector with a single HDMI input. The HDMI will be switched to different video inputs by a Denon 3312ci AVR. Can I have the 8350 get powered on when the HDMI gets a signal?
> 
> 
> If I mount the 8350 behind me, it will be difficult to use a remote.
> 
> 
> My newb understanding is HDMI-CEC would allow this type of power-on function.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



I don't believe the 8350 can do what you are thinking.


Mine is about 5-feet behind me up at the ceiling. I never point the remote at the pj...only to the front of the room. The signal bounces great off the screen 12-feet in front of me and back to the pj 5-feet behind me. I don't believe I have ever encountered a time when the signal did not make it to the pj.


----------



## Cyberathlete

I own the Epson 8350 and it is a great projector for the price (blacks could be better) but overall very colorful and sharp picture. Animated movies pop with this.


Most projectors will respond to the remote even when when placed behind you. Just point the signal at the wall/screen in front of you so the signal bounces back to the projector. If you notice the Epson 8350 has TWO infrared receivers built in. They're the dark red plastic you see on the front of the projector and on the rear of the projector. I use a universal remote to turn everything on and off at the same time and the projector always responds (as long as the batter of the remote is 50% or higher).


----------



## c3k

Thanks. I'm probably overthinking this.







When I get it set up, I'll find out out how the remote works (or not) from my listening position.


Thanks.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allbaugh_04* /forum/post/21613739
> 
> 
> Just got mine in the mail today.
> 
> 
> First off, good lord!!! The picture on this thing is amazing. I had a friend over when I hooked it up. We threw the picture a green wall to test it out and we were like, dang that looks good. I later turned on the TV and we were like holy crap at the same time, because it literally looked better than my "46 LCD A550. Couldn't believe it.
> 
> 
> I couldn't get it to work through the receiver for some reason (Denon AVR-590), hooked it straight to the computer, worked, then through the receiver again and for some reason it worked after that just fine. Kind of weird, hopefully I'll figure that out or it won't do it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> That was using a 35ft HDMI cord. Which is going to be too short. I have a 40ft on the way and that is certified to work, so we'll see.



That is great. Several questions:


1) You only threw the picture on the wall? Not on a screen?


2) What kind of signal did you feed the projector? Where the images coming from the hard drive of the computer, a blu ray player within the computer, or a separate, stand alone blu ray player, or a dvd player?


3) What was the size of the image that you projected on the wall or screen?


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lt.Aldo.Raine* /forum/post/21614316
> 
> 
> How do you turn super white on ? What does it do ?



Suppossedly it increases the contrast. It makes the colors more colorful?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21617141
> 
> 
> Suppossedly it increases the contrast. It makes the colors more colorful?



From the manual:


If bright parts of the image are washed out or overexposed (when the input signal contains values over 100 IRE), turn this setting on to compensate.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21616453
> 
> 
> I've joined the club! Thanks for all the info. You guys pushed me over the edge.
> 
> 
> My question: I will be running this projector with a single HDMI input. The HDMI will be switched to different video inputs by a Denon 3312ci AVR. Can I have the 8350 get powered on when the HDMI gets a signal?
> 
> 
> If I mount the 8350 behind me, it will be difficult to use a remote.
> 
> 
> My newb understanding is HDMI-CEC would allow this type of power-on function.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



as far as the remote... it works very well without any aiming...


----------



## Allforce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21616453
> 
> 
> I've joined the club! Thanks for all the info. You guys pushed me over the edge.
> 
> 
> My question: I will be running this projector with a single HDMI input. The HDMI will be switched to different video inputs by a Denon 3312ci AVR. Can I have the 8350 get powered on when the HDMI gets a signal?
> 
> 
> If I mount the 8350 behind me, it will be difficult to use a remote.
> 
> 
> My newb understanding is HDMI-CEC would allow this type of power-on function.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



I don't know if it supports HDMI-CEC but the remote works no matter where you point it in the room. In our case the 8350 is in the back of the room in a recessed shelf and you can point the remote right at the screen and navigate just fine. This works with the included remote and our Harmony One.


----------



## umdesch4

Hi folks. A bit of a noob here. This is only my second projector. I've had it for a few months, and been very happy with it. Last night I had some time alone in the house, and decided to do some fine tuning with that Disney WoW disc.


While looking at some of the black and white test patterns, I noticed a bit of color spread on the 1-pixel lines (maybe 3/4 of a pixel width on either side of a vertical line). I assume this is some kind of diffraction due to limitations of the optics.


Is there anything I can do to reduce this? I'm using a small amount of lens shift, so I'm thinking this might be the problem. Anybody else seen this, and have any ideas for minimizing it? Under normal viewing conditions, I hardly notice it at all, so I can live with it, but it's just going to bug me now that I know it's happening...


----------



## RAKs_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DGF* /forum/post/21616555
> 
> 
> My 8350 is ceiling mounted behind me - I just point the remote at the screen and the pj responds like a champ (about a 20 foot 'out and back' trip and maybe 5 feet above my seated position).
> 
> 
> I can't answer definitively on the HDMI-CEC question, but I have seen absolutely no mention of the projector having this capability.
> 
> 
> Dave



I second this. My 8350 is mounted, behind me, close to the ceiling on the back wall. However, it seems to pick up the remote perfectly when I point the remote towards the screen. The IR seems to bounce off the screen to the projector (~30ft total distance).


----------



## dcw2001

Hi Guys

I've had my 8350 for around 6 months. It has 650h on it so far. I use to use it as my TV/PS3 but I now use it only to watch blu-ray. I have noticed a greening of the right side and a green blotch it is only visible in very dark screens (I use cinema mode and when I change to dynamic etc it is very noticeable). I have read of the LCD panels degrading. Is this something I should talk to epson service about.

Thanks

David


----------



## Jimbo85281




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umdesch4* /forum/post/21620822
> 
> 
> Hi folks. A bit of a noob here. This is only my second projector. I've had it for a few months, and been very happy with it. Last night I had some time alone in the house, and decided to do some fine tuning with that Disney WoW disc.
> 
> 
> While looking at some of the black and white test patterns, I noticed a bit of color spread on the 1-pixel lines (maybe 3/4 of a pixel width on either side of a vertical line). I assume this is some kind of diffraction due to limitations of the optics.
> 
> 
> Is there anything I can do to reduce this? I'm using a small amount of lens shift, so I'm thinking this might be the problem. Anybody else seen this, and have any ideas for minimizing it? Under normal viewing conditions, I hardly notice it at all, so I can live with it, but it's just going to bug me now that I know it's happening...



Your convergence is off slightly which is completely normal for a 3LCD projector. If it was 2-3 pixels off then you could probably notice a bit of softening to the image. Also, lens shift can create a bit of a blurred edge to one side of a line of pixels.


----------



## umdesch4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jimbo85281* /forum/post/21621412
> 
> 
> Your convergence is off slightly which is completely normal for a 3LCD projector. If it was 2-3 pixels off then you could probably notice a bit of softening to the image. Also, lens shift can create a bit of a blurred edge to one side of a line of pixels.



Ok, so since it seems to only be 1 pixel or so, I'll live with it. Either way, I'm still thrilled with this machine, and somewhat gratified that my time with WoW proved that my quick-and-dirty calibration when I first got the thing was pretty good. I only made one or two tick adjustments based on the color bars test with the blue filter.


Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Larry Sutliff

I received the 8350 from Amazon on Wednesday, one day after I ordered it. I was very pleased with the fast service.


I've watched bits and pieces of several movies, including JURASSIC PARK(BD), CONAN THE DESTROYER(BD)(lovely cinematography by Jack Cardiff), SINGING IN THE RAIN(DVD) and watched the 1934 black and white BLACK CAT(DVD) in its entirety. I'm stunned by the image quality on this projector. I've read several posts from other owners of this pj that say the black levels aren't a strong point; perhaps it's because I've been using the Sanyo PLV-Z700 for three years(really weak blacks), but I find the black levels on the Epson to be amazing. The color and contrast are very punchy and lifelike. The picture is sharp as a tack. I'm using the cinema mode, with tweaking and calibration via the Digital Video Essentials(BD).


It must be because I'm coming from a very flat and dull projector, because the Epson is so good(to me) that it's what I imagined much more expensive pj's to look like. Needless to say, I'm very satisfied.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21625305
> 
> 
> I received the 8350 from Amazon on Wednesday, one day after I ordered it. I was very pleased with the fast service.
> 
> 
> I've watched bits and pieces of several movies, including JURASSIC PARK(BD), CONAN THE DESTROYER(BD)(lovely cinematography by Jack Cardiff), SINGING IN THE RAIN(DVD) and watched the 1934 black and white BLACK CAT(DVD) in its entirety. I'm stunned by the image quality on this projector. I've read several posts from other owners of this pj that say the black levels aren't a strong point; perhaps it's because I've been using the Sanyo PLV-Z700 for three years(really weak blacks), but I find the black levels on the Epson to be amazing. The color and contrast are very punchy and lifelike. The picture is sharp as a tack. I'm using the cinema mode, with tweaking and calibration via the Digital Video Essentials(BD).
> 
> 
> It must be because I'm coming from a very flat and dull projector, because the Epson is so good(to me) that it's what I imagined much more expensive pj's to look like. Needless to say, I'm very satisfied.



That was my impression too. I couldn't believe it when I first fired this thing up. I'm at close to 500 hours now and it looks every bit as bright as it did on day one to my eyes.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21626051
> 
> 
> That was my impression too. I couldn't believe it when I first fired this thing up. I'm at close to 500 hours now and it looks every bit as bright as it did on day one to my eyes.



It's good to know that the picture quality doesn't detoriate with use! I had the Mitsubishi HD1000 and the Sanyo, and while neither was "high end", I was fairly happy with both of them(the Sanyo never satisfied me though, because the contrast was lacking). But the Epson blows them both out of the water.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21626330
> 
> 
> It's good to know that the picture quality doesn't detoriate with use! I had the Mitsubishi HD1000 and the Sanyo, and while neither was "high end", I was fairly happy with both of them(the Sanyo never satisfied me though, because the contrast was lacking). But the Epson blows them both out of the water.



Ha, yeah the only problem is I put that 500 hours on in a little over 3 months!


----------



## uncola

I also want to say the black levels look great to me and I can't imagine how much better more expensive projectors would be. This was my first projector so I didn't want to spend too much, but when it comes time to replace it, I'm definitely going to step up to whatever the future equivalent of the epson 5010 is


----------



## GoldenTiger

So, I just bought a unit from Amazon Warehouse Deals under "like-new" condition. As far as I can tell by googling, Epson will still give a full 2-year warranty upon registration. Has anyone done this before and knows for sure that this is the case? It's returnable for 30 days anyway if it turns out the warranty wouldn't be valid (I'll call in with the serial # to register once it arrives), but I wouldn't mind the peace of mind of knowing in advance







.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger* /forum/post/21629381
> 
> 
> So, I just bought a unit from Amazon Warehouse Deals under "like-new" condition. As far as I can tell by googling, Epson will still give a full 2-year warranty upon registration. Has anyone done this before and knows for sure that this is the case? It's returnable for 30 days anyway if it turns out the warranty wouldn't be valid (I'll call in with the serial # to register once it arrives), but I wouldn't mind the peace of mind of knowing in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



as long as you bought from amazon,and the projector was never registered with epson you should be fine ,or u could just call epson to confirm


----------



## GoldenTiger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21629554
> 
> 
> as long as you bought from amazon,and the projector was never registered with epson you should be fine ,or u could just call epson to confirm



Yeah, that's what I plan on doing







.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21626813
> 
> 
> Ha, yeah the only problem is I put that 500 hours on in a little over 3 months!



I hear ya! I usually only use my pj on weekends, my Sanyo has only 1200 hours on it after three years, so I'm hoping to do the same with this one. But it's so good that I'm gonna be tempted to use it for a regular tv set.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21627684
> 
> 
> I also want to say the black levels look great to me and I can't imagine how much better more expensive projectors would be. This was my first projector so I didn't want to spend too much, but when it comes time to replace it, I'm definitely going to step up to whatever the future equivalent of the epson 5010 is



I watched THE DARK KNIGHT last night and could not believe the detail and pop of the Epson, even in the very dark scenes(which looked terrible on the Sanyo in comparision). I'm a very happy camper right now!


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21630959
> 
> 
> I watched THE DARK KNIGHT last night and could not believe the detail and pop of the Epson, even in the very dark scenes(which looked terrible on the Sanyo in comparision). I'm a very happy camper right now!



did u watch Avatar yet?

prepare to be blown away by the picture quality

a truly awesome projector for the $$


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21633562
> 
> 
> did u watch Avatar yet?
> 
> prepare to be blown away by the picture quality
> 
> a truly awesome projector for the $$



I plan on watching AVATAR very soon.










Last night I watched TAXI DRIVER on BD; it looked stunning, at least as good as it did when I saw it at the Film Forum in NYC a year or so ago. I know I keep repeating myself, but I'm beyond thrilled with this pj!


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21633620
> 
> 
> I plan on watching AVATAR very soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last night I watched TAXI DRIVER on BD; it looked stunning, at least as good as it did when I saw it at the Film Forum in NYC a year or so ago. I know I keep repeating myself, but I'm beyond thrilled with this pj!



Taxi Driver Blu Ray has gotten great reviews. I am dying to try the Epson 8350 plus Taxi Driver Blu Ray combination. I have several questions:


1) What is the size of the screen you used when you saw Taxi Driver?


2) How far from the screen are you sitting?


3) How far from the screen is the projector located?


Thanks for any info.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21634554
> 
> 
> Taxi Driver Blu Ray has gotten great reviews. I am dying to try the Epson 8350 plus Taxi Driver Blu Ray combination. I have several questions:
> 
> 
> 1) What is the size of the screen you used when you saw Taxi Driver?
> 
> 
> 2) How far from the screen are you sitting?
> 
> 
> 3) How far from the screen is the projector located?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any info.



I'm using a cheapie Epson 92" pulldown screen. I'm sitting about 7' from it, and the projector is on a shelf behind me(approx. 13-14' from the screen).


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21635111
> 
> 
> I'm using a cheapie Epson 92" pulldown screen. I'm sitting about 7' from it, and the projector is on a shelf behind me(approx. 13-14' from the screen).



Which of the following settings are you using on the projector when you have the darkest conditions at night without lights?


1) Dynamic


2) Living room


3) Natural


4) Cinema


5) x.v. Color


Thank you for any advice.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21635856
> 
> 
> Which of the following settings are you using on the projector when you have the darkest conditions at night without lights?
> 
> 
> 1) Dynamic
> 
> 
> 2) Living room
> 
> 
> 3) Natural
> 
> 
> 4) Cinema
> 
> 
> 5) x.v. Color
> 
> 
> Thank you for any advice.



3) Cinema with Lamp in Eco and iris in High speed


heres a video of my 8350 130" screen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhjUm..._order&list=UL


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21635969
> 
> 
> heres a video of my 8350 130" screen
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhjUm..._order&list=UL



Now that's an odd video. It looks like you're taking the video from far away (the image is only taking up a tiny portion of the YouTube video), and the screen looks like a 1.33:1 (4:3) format screen, rather than 16:9.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21635856
> 
> 
> Which of the following settings are you using on the projector when you have the darkest conditions at night without lights?
> 
> 
> 1) Dynamic
> 
> 
> 2) Living room
> 
> 
> 3) Natural
> 
> 
> 4) Cinema
> 
> 
> 5) x.v. Color
> 
> 
> Thank you for any advice.



I'm using Cinema with the lamp set at ECO, brightness clicked down to -11 via HD Video Essentials, contrast at -1. Not using the Iris or Superwhite, the black levels look just fine without it.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly* /forum/post/21636265
> 
> 
> Now that's an odd video. It looks like you're taking the video from far away (the image is only taking up a tiny portion of the YouTube video), and the screen looks like a 1.33:1 (4:3) format screen, rather than 16:9.



i took it 13' away with my ipod touch

its a 130" 16.9 screen


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Sutliff* /forum/post/21636312
> 
> 
> I'm using Cinema with the lamp set at ECO, brightness clicked down to -11 via HD Video Essentials, contrast at -1. Not using the Iris or Superwhite, the black levels look just fine without it.



Is there something about using the Iris that you don't like? Maybe that it is noisy if you are sitting too close to the projector or any other reason? I believe most people who have this projector turn on the iris


----------



## mbaysing

I don't like the auto iris because I can see it working if there's a sudden change. It's especially obvious if there's a cut to black. I can see the black level change. Fast or slow iris doesn't matter. I still see it.


----------



## korygrandy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbaysing* /forum/post/21640290
> 
> 
> I don't like the auto iris because I can see it working if there's a sudden change. It's especially obvious if there's a cut to black. I can see the black level change. Fast or slow iris doesn't matter. I still see it.



Agreed on the "noticeable difference when on" theory. It's easy to see what we are talking about if you have a HTPC hooked up, with a black desktop background, and you start playing with the start menu. Iris will start adjusting the blacks at a noticeable level.


Plus it makes noise, so if you hear the noise of the iris adjusting it becomes that more obvious that the blacks are going to change too, like messing with your head so-to-speak.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbaysing* /forum/post/21640290
> 
> 
> I don't like the auto iris because I can see it working if there's a sudden change. It's especially obvious if there's a cut to black. I can see the black level change. Fast or slow iris doesn't matter. I still see it.



What would you say the difference in the deepness of the blacks is with the iris on and off? With the Iris on, are the blacks much darker, moderately darker, or just a little darker?


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *korygrandy* /forum/post/21640451
> 
> 
> Agreed on the "noticeable difference when on" theory. It's easy to see what we are talking about if you have a HTPC hooked up, with a black desktop background, and you start playing with the start menu. Iris will start adjusting the blacks at a noticeable level.
> 
> 
> Plus it makes noise, so if you hear the noise of the iris adjusting it becomes that more obvious that the blacks are going to change too, like messing with your head so-to-speak.



What would you say the difference in the deepness of the blacks is with the iris on and off? With the Iris on, are the blacks much darker, moderately darker, or just a little darker?


----------



## domingos38

just finished watching MEGAMIND and it was in credible

theres no way the JVC's are worth $4000 more


----------



## FHT123

So does the Epson 8350 have a 90 day lamp warranty or a two year lamp warranty?


----------



## LowellG

I still can't decide to go 3D, or get the 8350 as my first projector. If I go 3D it will be the Panny 7000 or an Epson 6010. However, I feel like several new 4K projectors will come out next year and it will be cheaper to upgrade from a 2D.


What screen gain are you people using with yours. I am looking at the Jamestown Hometheater Screen which is 1.2 gain. Would that be a good screen?


Thanks,


----------



## Kiddikop

About a month ago my PJ began to signal that it was overheating. I cleaned the filter (which did not seem dirty), but it still overheated. I finally solved the overheating by changing the bulb setting to eco mode. Tonight, I turned it on and it immediately flashed that the projector was overheating again (and it had only been on about 5 minutes). Is this a sign that the bulb is going out? I only have about 900+ hours on it. Thanks for advice.


----------



## Vracer111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William88* /forum/post/21642032
> 
> 
> I currently own the epson hc720 and I absolutely love that pj. After hearing about the 8350 I am getting a serious case of upgrade-itis. Great price great specs( way better than my current pj) and can't wait to see how much better this will be. I have to sell my 720 first though, or the wifey will more than likely cut me in some fashion. Looking forward to reading some reviews on this guy but I think I'm gonna end up pulling the trigger anyways



HC 8350 is a nice step up in image quality from the HC 720 (which was my previous projector)...You won't miss the HC 720 one bit!


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiddikop* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> About a month ago my PJ began to signal that it was overheating. I cleaned the filter (which did not seem dirty), but it still overheated. I finally solved the overheating by changing the bulb setting to eco mode. Tonight, I turned it on and it immediately flashed that the projector was overheating again (and it had only been on about 5 minutes). Is this a sign that the bulb is going out? I only have about 900+ hours on it. Thanks for advice.



Projectors don't overheat because a bulb is going out. Call customer service.


----------



## Larry Sutliff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_* /forum/post/21640087
> 
> 
> Is there something about using the Iris that you don't like? Maybe that it is noisy if you are sitting too close to the projector or any other reason? I believe most people who have this projector turn on the iris



I guess I'm just prejudiced against Irises because the one in the Sanyo degraded the picture rather than made it better. I'll test the Iris on the Epson one of these days, but the picture looks fine to me so far without it.


----------



## llkindt

I spoke to a popular online site today about purchasing the epson 8350. I was told that they do not have any instock and that supplies will be limited because epson will be phasing out the 8350, this summer, for a new 2d upgraded projector. Anyone else heard about this or what the 8350 replacement might be capable of?


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *llkindt* /forum/post/21644041
> 
> 
> I spoke to a popular online site today about purchasing the epson 8350. I was told that they do not have any instock and that supplies will be limited because epson will be phasing out the 8350, this summer, for a new 2d upgraded projector. Anyone else heard about this or what the 8350 replacement might be capable of?



Probably just features, hard to imagine a picture that is better than this.


I, however, do not know what I am talking about.


----------



## Kiddikop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21643237
> 
> 
> Projectors don't overheat because a bulb is going out. Call customer service.



Called customer service this morning and they are shipping me out a refurbished unit with new bulb tomorrow! Tech said it is probably a heat sensor or bad fan. Hope this one doesn't have any problems since I only have 8 months left on warranty. Great customer service!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *llkindt* /forum/post/21644041
> 
> 
> I spoke to a popular online site today about purchasing the epson 8350. I was told that they do not have any instock and that supplies will be limited because epson will be phasing out the 8350, this summer, for a new 2d upgraded projector. Anyone else heard about this or what the 8350 replacement might be capable of?



Surprised they would want to phase it out since it's a great 2D projector for the price.

May be they want to use the same assembly line as their new models???


I can only assume they are going to use the new D9 LCD panels.

Probably just a 3010 with no 3D with added lens shift.

Hopefully the contrast is not sacrificed for lumens.


Or maybe no more 2D only Home Theater projector from Epson...


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LowellG* /forum/post/21642086
> 
> 
> I still can't decide to go 3D, or get the 8350 as my first projector. If I go 3D it will be the Panny 7000 or an Epson 6010. However, I feel like several new 4K projectors will come out next year and it will be cheaper to upgrade from a 2D.
> 
> 
> What screen gain are you people using with yours. I am looking at the Jamestown Hometheater Screen which is 1.2 gain. Would that be a good screen?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



dude the jamestown screen + epson 8350= match made in heaven

picture quality is out of this world

this screens are worth way more than he sells them for

i think its the best screen under $1000


----------



## Tom Ace

About a week ago I started noticing a small flicker or blink with the image. It's a little difficult to explain but when you are watching you'll notice the image brightness go down just for a second and then go back, like a "flicker" or a "blink". I only use cinema and living room modes. It's on it's first bulb with only 464 hours on it, no indicator lights are coming on saying it's the bulb and I would hope it wouldn't with less than a quarter of it's life gone. I also have had it on ECO mode the whole year I've owned it. I think I am going to check the filter and make sure that it's not clogged up but other than that has anyone ever experienced this or heard of it?


I did read in the owner's maual about a flicker on "still" images and to use the progressive scan adjustment under advanced or something







but not sure if this is something that would fix what I have going on.....


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21645045
> 
> 
> About a week ago I started noticing a small flicker or blink with the image. It's a little difficult to explain but when you are watching you'll notice the image brightness go down just for a second and then go back, like a "flicker" or a "blink". I only use cinema and living room modes. It's on it's first bulb with only 464 hours on it, no indicator lights are coming on saying it's the bulb and I would hope it wouldn't with less than a quarter of it's life gone. I also have had it on ECO mode the whole year I've owned it. I think I am going to check the filter and make sure that it's not clogged up but other than that has anyone ever experienced this or heard of it?
> 
> 
> I did read in the owner's maual about a flicker on "still" images and to use the progressive scan adjustment under advanced or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but not sure if this is something that would fix what I have going on.....



Try disconnecting/reseating your HDMI cables.

If that doesn't help, try swapping them out one at a time.


----------



## Guitarstar

Has anyone tried the "HIGH CONTRAST GRAY GREY PROJECTOR SCREEN MATERIAL BY THE FOOT DLP LCD HDTV" material sold on eBait ? His ad shows a picture of Spiderman on a video screen. The stuff looks like its fairly high quality, has anyone tried it ?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21646222
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried the "HIGH CONTRAST GRAY GREY PROJECTOR SCREEN MATERIAL BY THE FOOT DLP LCD HDTV" material sold on eBait ? His ad shows a picture of Spiderman on a video screen. The stuff looks like its fairly high quality, has anyone tried it ?



If you are talking about this seller, yes, he makes great screens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...304049&page=13


----------



## uncola

I already set up my new projector and elite sable 1.1 gain cinewhite screen about a month ago, very happy with it, except my picture doesn't quite fill the screen even with the max 2.1:1 zoom enabled. I get about 85" of picture on my 92" elite screens sable screen. I use it in a darkened room with white walls/ceiling.. but considering my short 8.5 foot throw and small projected image of 85". should I have gotten a grey screen like the elite ezframe cinegrey 1.0 gain screen? it's available in 85" size. Just wondering in case I decide to upgrade the screen later


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21648421
> 
> 
> If you are talking about this seller, yes, he makes great screens.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...304049&page=13




I don't think so, here's the eBay item number I'm referring to .... 300641132934


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guitarstar* /forum/post/21648609
> 
> 
> I don't think so, here's the eBay item number I'm referring to .... 300641132934



Seems to have good feedback.

Ask them for a sample.


----------



## assafei

I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...









The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.


I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...


Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?


Thanks!

Assaf


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assafei* /forum/post/21649565
> 
> 
> I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.
> 
> 
> I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Assaf



1. Call Espon and see how much it would cost to repair it.

2. Buy a used one off ebay for cheap.


*Not sure about were you live but the 8350 has a 2 year warranty.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21649804
> 
> 
> 1. Call Espon and see how much it would cost to repair it.
> 
> 2. Buy a used one off ebay for cheap.
> 
> 
> *Not sure about were you live but the 8350 has a 2 year warranty.



that doesn't cover accidental drops


----------



## oresteez




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assafei* /forum/post/21649565
> 
> 
> I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.
> 
> 
> I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Assaf



I hate to focus on the negative, but now you have me worried about my 8350 sitting on the shelf I purchased....


What kind of shelf was it? was it mounted on the stud? just sheet rock? cement? did the shelf fail or the wall?


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assafei* /forum/post/21649565
> 
> 
> I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.
> 
> 
> I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Assaf



Ouch, that is not any fun. I don't think there is much you could do poking around - the 3 panels need to be lined up perfectly, and I'm guessing parts broke, not just slid out of place. I think new optical mechanism may be in the works.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21649925
> 
> 
> that doesn't cover accidental drops



They usually won't cover it but will in most cases give a you discounted rate for repair.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Today I got a replacement 8350 from epson due to last one had terrible color uniformity from left to right..since it was only a week old they sent me a new unit...upon lifting out of box I could hear something rattling around..I took filter out and moved unit all around until a small Phillips head half inch black screw fell out...the unit has great convergence and uniformity...I'd hate to return it but I'm concerned where this screw belongs...anyone ever open one of these or have any idea what it's to??


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assafei* /forum/post/21649565
> 
> 
> I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.
> 
> 
> I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Assaf



Here is one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t349864...e_color_panels 


But, first ... you have to make sure nothing is actually broken or bent.


A while back when I fixed my brother's Optima DLP projector, I was surprised of all the good DLP repair info. I found. Those are a little simpler, but still.


Check your credit card ... you might luck out and have accidental breakage coverage.


You should also analyze why the shelf fell. Pretend like you are hanging a flat-panel TV next time. You might also want to install an emergency cable (a nice automotive bungie-cord would have likely saved it ... or just knocked it slightly out of alignment).


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *assafei* /forum/post/21649565
> 
> 
> I've put my brand new 8350 projector on a shelf that collapsed after a few days. The projector fell down from about 6 feet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results: the projector still works, but the image is distorted - it is composed of three images (red, green, blue) which don't fit with each other.
> 
> 
> I've took the projector to the lab at my home country (no warranty). They've said the "optical mechanism" needs to be replaced. The suggested price is about 450$...
> 
> 
> Can anyone suggest a "do-it-yourself" approach? maybe a service manual and a link to an online store to purchase replacement parts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Assaf



Sorry Assaf, but essentially it's junk without a professional repair. The three (2) LCD Panels have been knocked loose of their cradles, and those cradles "precisely" align the Panels to within one pixel or less convergence.


To help you wrap yourself around that idea, just imagine taking the finest tipped Pencil you can, and using a Ruler, you draw a straight line using ultra light pressure. Now you draw another line right beside the first, only you try to place the 2nd line so close you cannot see any space between, but you do not overlap either. That's about 1 pixel difference.


What you describe is akin to drawing the second line over 1"-2" to the side of the 1st line.


My opinion on this is that if upon inspection the Technician said he could repair it for $450.00 you should bite on that. If it gets fixed...fine, you could not replace it for over 2x that amount. If it isn't fixed to satisfaction upon your inspection, and you don't pay for anything in advance, your simply back to square-one.


If you choose to get it repaired, be certain to delve into what "convergence" means, and what "poor" convergence looks like when tested. Make sure the Tech shows you around the block as far as the PJs operation and performance. Don't get snookered into wasting any funds trying to resurrect a dead dog.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside* /forum/post/21651705
> 
> 
> Today I got a replacement 8350 from epson due to last one had terrible color uniformity from left to right..since it was only a week old they sent me a new unit...upon lifting out of box I could hear something rattling around..I took filter out and moved unit all around until a small Phillips head half inch black screw fell out...the unit has great convergence and uniformity...I'd hate to return it but I'm concerned where this screw belongs...anyone ever open one of these or have any idea what it's to??



If it's Black and 1/2" long, it's probably a Chassis Screw.


I'd call Epson and make a issue of it, asking that you get a "Service Number" that identifies the date you called and the subject.


Then let it ride. You have 2 years Warranty, and if the PJ is measuring up, just think positive thoughts like, "Some nerd at the Factory is just messin' wit' me!" or better still, consider it nothing more than a misplaced extra screw dropped inside during assembly.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Thats exactly my thought process Mississippiman....this is my third projector...the first was fine except a deep green blob up on right top...the second had less than favorable convergence issues could be seen from 8 foot away on text and the screen had a pink to green tint from left to right.. this one now has very sharp text no noticeable convergence unless a foot from screen and the uniformity has maybe a hint of warm to left and a hint of blue to right but after three i can live with that...i dont want to play the exchange game again..so ill save the screw and document case going forward and hope all is well....What do you mean by chassis screw? holding the main case to frame? thats what i was figuring...nothing to important im sure there are plenty others holding everything in place...


----------



## keithrwhiteside

one quick question...i know this is hd. but is there a way to reduce the sweaty look on faces...ints not the white shiny it just looks like sweat on everyone..


----------



## uncola

what kind of videos are you watching???


----------



## keithrwhiteside

this is all over cable box...hdtv shows...and noticed it in startrek over cable box...i havent had time for a bluray on the new unit yet...


----------



## keithrwhiteside

ok nm smartazz lolol i just realized what you were injecting there...too busy at work to catch on quick enough lol


----------



## GrantMeThePower

I'm thinking of getting this projector to replace my Panasonic ae-2000U but i see that this projector has been out a while. Is there any word about a replacement model soon? I like the value of the 8350 and don't feel that i need 3D (although it would sure be nice, its just not worth the cost and the 3010 has terrible lag and i play a lot of games).


----------



## alec32

 http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329424707&sr=1-1 


I'm thinking about getting a projector for my business (I'm in marketing, so there are a lot of presentations), and I'm wondering if this would do the job for that? Also, is this a good price??


Thanks.


----------



## Coopx

Just an Update:


My 8350 is almost 1 year old since i bought it, thanks to this great forum for helping me deciding wat to get, im 100% satisfied with my 8350 and for sure will buy from epson again when i upgraded it. So far everything is working fine and fantastic.










Epson 8350

Favi 120" Electric Screen

Onkyo Ht s5400, upgraded the speakers to Polk Audio Series 2


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alec32* /forum/post/21655341
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329424707&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about getting a projector for my business (I'm in marketing, so there are a lot of presentations), and I'm wondering if this would do the job for that? Also, is this a good price??
> 
> 
> Thanks.



In my opinion, this is not the projector for you. Hop on Epson's website and look at their corporate line of projectors. They are are much smaller, lighter, more portable, etc... The 8350 is GIGANTIC in comparison and not meant to be moved around like the corporate models.


----------



## domingos38

i am going to connect my PS3 to my 8350 via my onkyo receiver.

on the PS3 under video settings what should i choose to get the best picture quality?


thanks


----------



## Coopx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21656393
> 
> 
> i am going to connect my PS3 to my 8350 via my onkyo receiver.
> 
> on the PS3 under video settings what should i choose to get the best picture quality?
> 
> 
> thanks



mine HDMI input ofcourse, 24hz On and Bit color On.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21655847
> 
> 
> In my opinion, this is not the projector for you. Hop on Epson's website and look at their corporate line of projectors. They are are much smaller, lighter, more portable, etc... The 8350 is GIGANTIC in comparison and not meant to be moved around like the corporate models.



For business use, there are also brighter projectors out there, which can be useful when dealing with a lot of ambient light in a conference room. The 8350 wouldn't necessarily be a "bad" business projector but, as you said, if someone is lugging this around from place to place, the 8350's extremely large size will make it a bad fit for that purpose. if you're using it for marketing within the confines of your own company building, the 8350 might be fine.


----------



## Lindros88

I've been using cinema mode for as long as I've owned this projector, but the picture is starting to look dim. I want to use living room mode because it is a lot brighter, but the colors don't look good at all. Are there good calibration settings to make living room modes color look more like cinema modes color?


----------



## Lt.Aldo.Raine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/21657842
> 
> 
> I've been using cinema mode for as long as I've owned this projector, but the picture is starting to look dim. I want to use living room mode because it is a lot brighter, but the colors don't look good at all. Are there good calibration settings to make living room modes color look more like cinema modes color?



I have tried Cinema mode and do not like it at all....There was no pop to the picture when i watched Avatar. But when i watched Avatar on Dynamic there was pop and the picture looked vibrant....I have the brightness turned down to -6....I have tried Cinema mode with several blu-rays and i always go back to Dynamic.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

The colors from unit to unit differ greatly ive found. I had two one replacement and one original both projecting back to back and one unit was not as bright as the other on same mode. Also the color differences were totally different..cinema mode on one was watchable the other had a very yellowish green push to picture.. Now on these two units the convergence was very different also.. one had green and red around text slightly the other had blue and yellow around text slightly so im wondering if that plays a part in the picture.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been using cinema mode for as long as I've owned this projector, but the picture is starting to look dim. I want to use living room mode because it is a lot brighter, but the colors don't look good at all. Are there good calibration settings to make living room modes color look more like cinema modes color?



I made this exact change in settings recently. I feel you on the dim but great colors with the cinema mode. I calibrated with the Disney Wow Bluray and I will share my settings when I get home tonight. As always just a reminder that all projectors will look different even with identical calibration.


----------



## Guitarstar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21658627
> 
> 
> I made this exact change in settings recently. I feel you on the dim but great colors with the cinema mode. I calibrated with the Disney Wow Bluray and I will share my settings when I get home tonight. As always just a reminder that all projectors will look different even with identical calibration.



I use to have an old Toshiba RP TV that had a "Service" mode that you could enter by using a secret set of button pushes on the remote. In service mode you could adjust the default settings for each mode to be what you wanted them to be, so if the default Cinema setting was too blue and couldn't be adjusted out using the user controls you could go into service mode and correct it there, forever. I have to wonder if these and other projectors don't have the same ability. Personally I find the Natural setting way too green for my liking and I haven't been able to adjust it out no matter what I do, as a result I never use that mode. It would be nice to be able to fix that problem in service mode.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21492030
> 
> 
> OK, I just had a near death experience!!! Went upstairs to make sure I was ready for some Football, turned on the PJ and got an error about a malfunction with the auto iris, power down and call an Epson dealer. Sorry, I know I should have copied down the exact error but I did not. I used the remote and pressed power down, which took a couple tries and then the fan went into turbo exhaust mode. I unplugged the PJ, let it sit a couple minutes, and then plugged it back in. Powered it up and all is well.
> 
> 
> I have auto iris set to off, I run eco-mode, and my theater room stays about 65 degrees when not in use. I've got about 50 hours on the lamp and was using it just last night for a movie.
> 
> 
> Should I be concerned or is this "just one of those things" like a random blue screen???????



Just had this happen again










UPDATE: Just got off the phone with Epson. The tech said no use in waiting, this WILL happen again. They were going to send me a refurb but I pointed out I first reported this when the unit was only weeks old. After some checking, they said they will overnight a brand new factory sealed box. Provided that's what happens, I'm a VERY happy camper!!!


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21658627
> 
> 
> I made this exact change in settings recently. I feel you on the dim but great colors with the cinema mode. I calibrated with the Disney Wow Bluray and I will share my settings when I get home tonight. As always just a reminder that all projectors will look different even with identical calibration.



Alright, thanks. I'll try out the settings you come up with and see if it helps out at all.


----------



## Tom Ace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman* /forum/post/21645500
> 
> 
> Try disconnecting/reseating your HDMI cables.
> 
> If that doesn't help, try swapping them out one at a time.



I tried re seating HDMI cables, didn't work, still losing brightness for a split second and then goes back to normal. 466 hours on bulb now, no indication it needs replacement... not sure how to correct this.

Anyone else have this problem? Image going dim and then going back to normal, like a flicker or a blink. This happens like every minute or few minutes. VERY annoying!! Might have to call Epson. Haven't had any problems with the 8350 until this....


----------



## Ambrose




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21659650
> 
> 
> I tried re seating HDMI cables, didn't work, still losing brightness for a split second and then goes back to normal. 466 hours on bulb now, no indication it needs replacement... not sure how to correct this.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem? Image going dim and then going back to normal, like a flicker or a blink. This happens like every minute or few minutes. VERY annoying!! Might have to call Epson. Haven't had any problems with the 8350 until this....



Sounds like the Auto Iris working to me. Check to see if your Auto Iris is set to normal or high and then set it to off and see if the "flicker" goes away.


----------



## Tom Ace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ambrose* /forum/post/21660176
> 
> 
> Sounds like the Auto Iris working to me. Check to see if your Auto Iris is set to normal or high and then set it to off and see if the "flicker" goes away.



Yea I checked the auto iris and it was OFF, then changed it to normal to see if the flicker would stop but it didn't. I will try high and then off again and see what happens. I just don't understand what happened because I have had it for a year and had not changed anything and then it started doing this. Do you think a dirty filter could cause it...?


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21660523
> 
> 
> Yea I checked the auto iris and it was OFF, then changed it to normal to see if the flicker would stop but it didn't. I will try high and then off again and see what happens. I just don't understand what happened because I have had it for a year and had not changed anything and then it started doing this. Do you think a dirty filter could cause it...?



With only 400+ hours of use, I highly doubt it... but cleaning it is worth a shot, right? My guess is that you will have to suck it up and give Epson a call. At least you're covered under a very good warranty! Good luck.


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright, thanks. I'll try out the settings you come up with and see if it helps out at all.




Attachment 237585 


Sorry posting this took me so long. Just FYI I have HDMI setting on Expanded and auto iris off.


----------



## mekkerl

^^

What about the settings under advanced?


----------



## Tom Ace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/21660991
> 
> 
> With only 400+ hours of use, I highly doubt it... but cleaning it is worth a shot, right? My guess is that you will have to suck it up and give Epson a call. At least you're covered under a very good warranty! Good luck.



So I tried cleaning air filter, unplugging power/hdmi cables and re seating everything. Tried auto iris on all settings too and still, it flickers. Going to have to call Epson.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21666502
> 
> 
> So I tried cleaning air filter, unplugging power/hdmi cables and re seating everything. Tried auto iris on all settings too and still, it flickers. Going to have to call Epson.



They will be helpful, if not downright accommodating.


Myself, I just had to get a Bulb Replacement for the first time in all the almost 2 dozen 8350s I have been acquainted with since October 2010.


The PJ in question had racked up 2890 hours before rapid dimming and eventual black-out occurred. One 5 minute call to Customer service, and 24 hours later a new ("free") replacement bulb was back in there! (Over-nighted...that's real service!)


But nuts....no image. That is when the Owner stated he gad a Lightning strike close to the Home that blew out two Cable Boxes, a Computer Cable Modem, and fried a HDMI input on a Flat panel TV (2nd input still works).


The 8350 was not on when Zeus's bolt hit, but it seems the surge still got the best of the Video Inputs, as neither HDMI-1 or 2 will recognize any input, either via the pass-through of the SONY A/V Receiver or by a direct connection from source-to-display.


Monday AM will see another call to Epson. The PJ was purchased in November, 2010, so if they opT to to send a Refurb, I'm down wit dat.


----------



## wellseym

It's a sad day for me...I am about to list my 8350 for sale. I absolutely love it and my entire set up but my family is having some financial hard times and all the non essentials in my life have got to go for now. The projector is like new and is in perfect working condition...original bulb with only 600 hrs on it. I will be listing this in the appropriate forum but just wanted to give someone here the chance to make an offer first. Message me if you are interested.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wellseym* /forum/post/21668260
> 
> 
> It's a sad day for me...I am about to list my 8350 for sale. I absolutely love it and my entire set up but my family is having some financial hard times and all the non essentials in my life have got to go for now. The projector is like new and is in perfect working condition...original bulb with only 600 hrs on it. I will be listing this in the appropriate forum but just wanted to give someone here the chance to make an offer first. Message me if you are interested.



sorry to hear that your family is going thru financial hard times

hope its short term


----------



## wellseym




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> sorry to hear that your family is going thru financial hard times
> 
> hope its short term



Thanks...just some priority adjustments. We will bounce back. Thanks for the support!


----------



## khalid7412002

So my projector gave out tonight while as I was getting ready to watch a movie, Gamer I believe. I all heard was a loud pop, the projector bulb went dark and did not show any light. No warnings, no lights flashing on the top of the projector, the fan went turbo after I heard the pop so it wasn't a heat related issue. I turned it off, waited about 10 minutes, then attempted to turn it on again but the bulb didn't show an image, I knew the projector was on because I heard the fan turn on. I brought it down and could hear glass inside.


I bought this projector from amazon last august with only ~700 hours on it. Will be calling Epson in the morning but I am not worried as I hear great stories about their customer service.


My only concern is having to re-calibrate it and losing my settings.


Is there anyone to connect it to a external monitor source so that I may access the menu and write down my calibration settings?


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Ok i turned on my projector last night for some ps3 and right at bottom edge of black screen is a greenish blob..Unnoticeable with colored images but very obvious in black screen. Im guessing this is a "dust blob". Anyone have any ideas of how to clean this out. My unit has 30 hours on it and is not in a dust area.


----------



## ncarty97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hepalex* /forum/post/20287060
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this projector has HDMI control or CEC?



I searched the thread but didn't see this answered. Does anyone know if it is possible to control this projector via HDMI? The specs say it has HDMI 1.3, but I can't seem to figure out if that means it can be controlled that way.


Thanks!


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khalid7412002* /forum/post/21670821
> 
> 
> So my projector gave out tonight while as I was getting ready to watch a movie, Gamer I believe. I all heard was a loud pop, the projector bulb went dark and did not show any light. No warnings, no lights flashing on the top of the projector, the fan went turbo after I heard the pop so it wasn't a heat related issue. I turned it off, waited about 10 minutes, then attempted to turn it on again but the bulb didn't show an image, I knew the projector was on because I heard the fan turn on. I brought it down and could hear glass inside.
> 
> 
> I bought this projector from amazon last august with only ~700 hours on it. Will be calling Epson in the morning but I am not worried as I hear great stories about their customer service.
> 
> 
> My only concern is having to re-calibrate it and losing my settings.
> 
> 
> Is there anyone to connect it to a external monitor source so that I may access the menu and write down my calibration settings?



Just tell them the bulb blew and you need a replacement so you can keep your projector/settings.


----------



## Tom Ace

Well Epson is sending me another PJ. I am very satisfied with their customer service, they have been great with the warranty. I just wish I could get a PJ that will last longer than a year with no problems, cuz I really like the 8350 and don't wanna have to switch brands at this point. This will be my 3rd one in 12 months


----------



## rakstr

For those that have exchanged for warranty and received a refurb, how was it marked? I was supposed to receive a brand new unit since my issue happened so soon. It arrived today in an original box with the correct serial # inside and out but both the taped edge seals were broken and the tape down the middle was over top a previously broken tape line. Everything in the box seemed factory fresh but I'm having my doubts that I in fact got a new unit as promised.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

I'd like to know that answer as well...mine was said to be "new guaranteed" but tape Down sides was broken and middle retaped and the top carton holding the remote and Cable was all torn and broken


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Rakster, I just called epson and they assured me it's a new unit...they claim if it's not it comes in a brown box that says refurbished on it...idk if I believe that because like you the sides were cut and middle retaped...and inside cardboard was ripped...I still have original from bestbuy and the box is clean and white and only taped once and all sides had to be cut to open...me thinks I'm being played lol...prob there policy of some sort...she even ran serial number and said its a new unit to double check so who knows


----------



## larbo13

Hello , I've had my 8350 for about 8 months now, never had any problems with it before. Till now for some reason my hdmi does'nt work .Get no signal message. So i went out and bought a new one, 1.4 hdmi. Hook this one up and now im getting signal not supported ,H**** V*** (not to sure of the numbers). I have another hdmi which i tried and everything seems to work fine.( 15') the original hdmi is 35' long and so is the new one. Should'nt the 1.4 work any way ? Only dif. between the 1.3 and 1.4 is for 3d ?

Hope someone can help me out with this little problem, in the end i have a feeling it's going to be something realy stupid. lol I hope!


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imserious* /forum/post/21557823
> 
> 
> Update: I started noticing that the left side of the image is softer than the right. I can only see this with white text on a color background. It looks like there are two images of a character superimposed on each other. On the right side, this superimposition (real word?) is more uniform. On the left side, the superimposition is not aligned as well and the text looks a bit smudged. I believe this is called pixel shift. I can't see this issue when watching non-text, like movies, video games, etc. But the net effect is that text looks slightly brighter on the right side and more dim on the left side (due to softness).
> 
> 
> I will probably request a replacement PJ. Btw, the bulb busted while I was testing and they replaced it. New one works fine. Just sharing my experience for others.



Update 2:


One poster on one of these pages said that lens shift can create slight alignment/softness issues on one side of the image. So I tested it last night and lo and behold he/she was right. When I used max lens shift left, I noticed ever so slight softness on the left side of the image compared to the right. when I used no L to R lens shift, the sharpness was absolutely equal. This saves me from an unnecessary PJ swap. Thanks!


I don't want to alarm anyone. Lens shift does NOT negatively impact the image. This effect is imperceptible when watching moving images. It is only viewable on static text (white on color) close up. I will use the PJ at max lens shift left because that is the best placement for my room. This only satisfies my AR urge to know that nothing is wrong with my PJ.


I'm actually surprised how well lens shift works (in a budget 1080p PJ) without significantly distorting the image. It was the deal maker for me. Bravo epson.


----------



## SmokenAshes

If I have a 120" screen, what would the best spot be for this projector? I tried the calculator but a little confused by it. Is 12' from the screen the best or 16'? Thanks in advance.


----------



## mech27

Going by Projector Central's calulator it says that 16' is the distance that the projector should be placed at.


----------



## slybarman

I moved my 120" up from 16' to 13' to get more light.


----------



## SmokenAshes

Ok ive been moving the lens shift around and I still can't get the corners perfect. Is there something within the settings that I can adjust or is it forever tinkering with this thing?


----------



## mekkerl

^^^

I have the same issue, one of my corners is skewed...as far as I know you can't do anything about it. When I pull the screen forward in that corner, that fixes the problem...well at least it makes it look that way. But I leave my screen as is, and just live with the corner being that way.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes* /forum/post/21684464
> 
> 
> Ok ive been moving the lens shift around and I still can't get the corners perfect. Is there something within the settings that I can adjust or is it forever tinkering with this thing?



Mines not exactly perfect either, but it's 98% there. I'm sure it varies with the screen, installation of the screen, etc... I have a very small sliver on the left side of my image that is off screen, but I really don't notice it. I can understand why it would bug perfectionists though!


----------



## SmokenAshes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Mines not exactly perfect either, but it's 98% there. I'm sure it varies with the screen, installation of the screen, etc... I have a very small sliver on the left side of my image that is off screen, but I really don't notice it. I can understand why it would bug perfectionists though!



Yeah, sometimes my OCD drives me crazy! But I'm getting better.


----------



## Mistergreg

Couple of questions:

Does anybody care to share their settings after running Disney Wow setup? I tried using and it came up with what looked to be very good sharpness setting but lacked in brightness and color seemed off. My setup is in a fairly brightly lit room on to a Favi 150" 1.3 gain screen.


Also when watching a Blu-ray through my PS3 it appears like having the video set to RGB will display a better overall picture, this seems to go against a lot of suggestions of ycbcr. In addition the info on the projector when set to RGB says 1920x1080 vs Component when it is set Ycbcr even though signal is passed through Hdmi. Am I not getting the full 1920x1080 when set to Ycbcr?


I apologize if these are stupid questions, I'm new to projectors.

Picture of screen with blinds open:


Attachment 238132


----------



## Lindros88

Does anybody have RGBCMY settings for dynamic mode they could share? Thanks.


----------



## Peterose2002

I've been going nuts with the misalignment on the left side of my picture. I'm using the max lens shift to the left and it's definitely off. I've leveled the projector and screen and it's perfect. What good is the lens shift if you can't get a perfect picture.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002* /forum/post/21694779
> 
> 
> I've been going nuts with the misalignment on the left side of my picture. I'm using the max lens shift to the left and it's definitely off. I've leveled the projector and screen and it's perfect. What good is the lens shift if you can't get a perfect picture.



The projector has to be more than just level, the lens plane must be parallel to the screen. Try rotating the projector a little either direction, observe what it does to each edge. A little bit of trial and error and you'll find a "sweet spot". Keep in mind your screen may also be skewed and/or not a perfect plane. Tough to get a large surface like that perfectly flat/plumb/level. Lots of variables here!


----------



## Tom Ace

Got a replacement pj, refurb, went to mount it and found it had a broken screw inside one of the mounting holes. Called Epson and they apologized and sent me a brand new pj priority overnight. Had it by 11am, wow! No flicker, works great. Excellent customer service/warranty!


----------



## Archaea

Hey guys I notice tonight on a white background I have a red tint on the right hand of the screen and a blue tint on the left hand of the screen. I am not using much of an offset, and the middle of the screen looks great. The projector is only a couple months old, so I'm thinking I need to return it or send it in under warranty. Any suggestions - has anyone heard of this before? The off color tint is not noticable on anything but a white screen, but it is present in any color mode.


----------



## domingos38

do i need to register my PJ with epson or not?


----------



## Guitarstar

Painted my white wall with a neutral gray with some pearl and metallic in it this weekend, what a difference ! Much better contrast during the day and at night and now that the whole wall is grey I can size the picture to any size I want and not have settle for a fixed envelope. Some DVD's have aspect ratios greater than 16:9 and those can be zoomed to around 200" using Living Room mode with great results. It's very theater like to have a huge display and if it's BluRay the image doesn't seem suffer much, if any.


As you may already know its difficult to get the color, tint and contrast set when using a TV feed (cable box). Some programs have a greenish, bluish, or red push so one setting isn't necessarily good for all channels, or programs. Experimenting around I discovered that if I go to a channel showing old black and white movies I can easily see is if the projector is leaning to one color or another and that makes adjusting the picture to a pure black and white much much easier.


----------



## mach250

Well my bulb finally gave out, had it since June 10th. On hold now with epson customer service waiting to see if I'll get a replacement.


edit, they're overnighting a replacement. hate not having one on hand to swap in for times like these when theres something on tv I wanted to watch on the bigscreen


----------



## wudevious

Just bought and set up the 8350, first projector! Very excited!


Going to run through this thread for tips, but had a couple questions from last night.


When I was changing hd channels last night, the channels would be shown differently size-wise (some wider, some not). Since it appears that I can't change the 'aspect' when the feed is hdtv, is this normal and just something to deal with?


Does anyone ever adjust the size projected (via the zoom ring) depending on the source or who is watching? Just curious if the image is too large for some, if it's normal to reduce via the zoom ring. Or is that a no-no?


Are your projectors set in their spots or does anyone ever put them away when they aren't being used? Might run into a throw distance issue so I'm trying to find a workaround.


Thanks!


----------



## mcnizzel

If any of you are looking for an upgrade or a projector at a great deal I just put an epson 8500UB up in the classifieds section, taking offers don't be shy

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...do=ad&id=17096


----------



## mkvien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wudevious* /forum/post/21708251
> 
> 
> Just bought and set up the 8350, first projector! Very excited!
> 
> 
> Going to run through this thread for tips, but had a couple questions from last night.
> 
> 
> When I was changing hd channels last night, the channels would be shown differently size-wise (some wider, some not). Since it appears that I can't change the 'aspect' when the feed is hdtv, is this normal and just something to deal with?
> 
> 
> Does anyone ever adjust the size projected (via the zoom ring) depending on the source or who is watching? Just curious if the image is too large for some, if it's normal to reduce via the zoom ring. Or is that a no-no?
> 
> 
> Are your projectors set in their spots or does anyone ever put them away when they aren't being used? Might run into a throw distance issue so I'm trying to find a workaround.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I wouldn't move it around if you don't have to, your les shift might move around, and I would theorize that the bulb life might also suffer. you could adjust regularly for screen size, but it sure is nice if you just mount the thing and flip it on when you want to watch.


----------



## mach250

got the replacement bulb in from epson earlier. installed it and wow the darkest preset (x.v. color) is brighter than what the dynamic setting achieved with the old bulb.


Couple pictures to show the original bulbs filament seemingly melted and accepted gravity...


Bulb that originally came with the projector
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6...ac752c2d_b.jpg 
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6...a275bc1e_b.jpg 


Replacement
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6...a793204b_b.jpg 
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/6...8eb18be8_b.jpg 


Crazy


----------



## tatersly

pc richard and son has the 8350 for $999.97,...says free shipping available, whatever that means. that's the best i've seen in a while. anyone know of a better price lately? thanks.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tatersly* /forum/post/21711205
> 
> 
> pc richard and son has the 8350 for $999.97,...says free shipping available, whatever that means. that's the best i've seen in a while. anyone know of a better price lately? thanks.



Post a link, ya Stink!


















That is portentous news for 1080p bargain Hunters! That price point has not been broached since Black Friday.


----------



## Jamz

 http://www.pcrichard.com/catalog/pro...modelNo=HC8350


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21701943
> 
> 
> Hey guys I notice tonight on a white background I have a red tint on the right hand of the screen and a blue tint on the left hand of the screen. I am not using much of an offset, and the middle of the screen looks great. The projector is only a couple months old, so I'm thinking I need to return it or send it in under warranty. Any suggestions - has anyone heard of this before? The off color tint is not noticable on anything but a white screen, but it is present in any color mode.



Well I called Epson tonight and they are overnighting me a refurbed unit since my 8350 is only a couple months old. I'm not that excited about a refurb unit, but I don't want my two month old projector to have weird colors on the sides either.


The techsupport was pleasent and fast and efficient. overnighting is a bonus I didn't ask for or anything. cross shipping is standard which I thought was also a nice bonus. I asked about bulb life on the refurb and he says they always put a new bulb in the unit so I guess it's okay. How new does it have to be to get a new unit rather than a refurb? Two months isn't that old!? It came from BestBuy.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

good luck with that refurb lol. ive had five diff 8350s and all have had some differences from convergence issues some better some worse. sharpness some not so sharp as others. and the color uniformity you speak of. not one had a perfect white background. all were warm on left to cool on right in some degree or another. there is no perfect 8350 its the nature of the beast i suppose. i stopped trying and just use it now lol


----------



## Archaea

I think my store bought 8350 started out perfectly - or as perfectly as one could expect with a $1000 projector - I saw no faults outside of an anemic black level compared to higher priced models. If this refurb comes in - in poor shape I will be sending it back.


----------



## cgdorn

Not sure if I am doing this correctly, but I have an issue with our 8350. We have it ceiling mounted, connected to a computer. We use this as our computer "monitor" if you will. We are having an issue when viewing videos that were shot at night, so most of the video is completely dark. When this happens, the entire picture from the 8350 "greys" out until the video brightens up again. Is this normal behavior and is there a way to prevent this? Any help would be appreciated. Apologies if I have posed this question in the wrong portion of the forums. Thanks


----------



## Ambrose




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cgdorn* /forum/post/21719583
> 
> 
> Not sure if I am doing this correctly, but I have an issue with our 8350. We have it ceiling mounted, connected to a computer. We use this as our computer "monitor" if you will. We are having an issue when viewing videos that were shot at night, so most of the video is completely dark. When this happens, the entire picture from the 8350 "greys" out until the video brightens up again. Is this normal behavior and is there a way to prevent this? Any help would be appreciated. Apologies if I have posed this question in the wrong portion of the forums. Thanks



Auto-Iris maybe. Although it sounds like you are saying almost fully black scenes are turning grey. Check in your projector settings and see if it is turned on. Set it to off and try viewing the same videos again to see if that changes it any.


----------



## cgdorn

I will try the auto-iris. Right now it is on. It is a little hard to explain, but it is not just the video that greys out, it is the entire image coming from the projector, the video, windows, icons, everything. Seems like the projector is trying to compensate for how dark the video is. I will try to change the auto-iris and post back later. Thank you for the help.


----------



## cgdorn

I changed the auto-iris to off as suggested and that fixed my issue instantly. The picture does not grey-out when playing really dark videos. I had the auto-iris set to normal as several other sites suggested for creating the optimum settings.

I appreciate the help, thank you.


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21701943
> 
> 
> Hey guys I notice tonight on a white background I have a red tint on the right hand of the screen and a blue tint on the left hand of the screen. I am not using much of an offset, and the middle of the screen looks great. The projector is only a couple months old, so I'm thinking I need to return it or send it in under warranty. Any suggestions - has anyone heard of this before? The off color tint is not noticable on anything but a white screen, but it is present in any color mode.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21711582
> 
> 
> Well I called Epson tonight and they are overnighting me a refurbed unit since my 8350 is only a couple months old. I'm not that excited about a refurb unit, but I don't want my two month old projector to have weird colors on the sides either.
> 
> 
> The techsupport was pleasent and fast and efficient. overnighting is a bonus I didn't ask for or anything. cross shipping is standard which I thought was also a nice bonus. I asked about bulb life on the refurb and he says they always put a new bulb in the unit so I guess it's okay. How new does it have to be to get a new unit rather than a refurb? Two months isn't that old!? It came from BestBuy.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside* /forum/post/21715963
> 
> 
> good luck with that refurb lol. ive had five diff 8350s and all have had some differences from convergence issues some better some worse. sharpness some not so sharp as others. and the color uniformity you speak of. not one had a perfect white background. all were warm on left to cool on right in some degree or another. there is no perfect 8350 its the nature of the beast i suppose. i stopped trying and just use it now lol




well - great...


I got the refurb projector in from epson tonight. It has a dustblob front and center on the screen and it's not on the outside lens. I called my wife down and asked her if I was being picky - expecting her to say yes. She said no - that bothers me more than the off color on the sides -- send it back.


sigh....


Keithrwhiteside, you went through five of them eh? My first one new from bestbuy was perfect. I'm half tempted to go buy another one from best buy and return this one as defective under the new receipt. I'm not sure if the ethics are 100% on that, but darn - I bought a new projector I would expect it to last more than a couple months before playing the refurb game with epson... You can't tell me they wouldn't see that dust blob in their refurb center. On just the black no source background it shows up.


----------



## Archaea

I called epson - they are going to send a second one overnight as well. They have good customer service - I just fear this juggling act...I'm a picky customer, and I would return a new unit with a dust blob and I'm not okay with getting a used unit with a dust blob either. I don't think that's too extraordinary - though I do acknowledge that some customers may not even care or worry about a minor dustblob as I would. --- But then those kind of folks aren't likely the kind of enthusiasts you would find in abundance on avsforum.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

archea, If i was you id just go back to best buy. My story is such. First projector had green tint to left side only noticeable on white screen. My family said i was nuts but i returned to best buy thinking i could get "perfect". Second one from best buy convergence was not so great. I could see text outline "from my seating distance" of about 18 feet.Called epson..they said maybe bestbuy had bad batch sent me overnite a "new" projector... Took projector out of box and rattling inside. It drove me nuts..Finally tipped it just right and small black screw fell out from INSIDE projector. Called epson they overnighted me another "new" projector. Taped edges were all cut top was cut and retaped and box was dirty black and missing papers inside. They assured me it was new...screen was soft, very soft i said bull sht and sent it back. went back to bestbuy got the 5th one opened up and lens had big smudge on it. went to walmart bought lens cleaner cleaned it hooked up and said scrw it. The picture is good even if some slight tints that only probably i will see. Point being is as others have said you are playing roulette and some will be better or worse but never perfect. Like is said even this one the lens shift doesnt "lock" in center for vertical. Usually you can tell by the click it gives. But after 5 forget it idc i will keep until something drastic happens then return for a "refurb" aka new lol in my 2 year warranty if needed.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

I meant green tint on right from shelf mounted which i said all basically had in some degree or other and yes my second unit from best buy got a dust blob right dead center screen bottom noticeable on black screen after a week of using. Lesson learned i should of just kep the first lolol


----------



## smokarz

Anyone knows what "Expanded HDMI" does?


How would you use it with an HTPC running ATI Catalyst driver?


Turn it off/on? Need to change anything on the graphic card driver?


Thanks!


----------



## tannergreer

What kind of mounts are you guys using on your 8350's. I just bought one and am searching for the best mount!


Thanks,


Tanner


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21723809
> 
> 
> Anyone knows what "Expanded HDMI" does?
> 
> 
> How would you use it with an HTPC running ATI Catalyst driver?
> 
> 
> Turn it off/on? Need to change anything on the graphic card driver?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



HDMI Video Range should be set to Expanded.


----------



## carp

I've got a dust blob too, just going to live with it unless it gets a lot worse. I can't see it most of the time.


I think we are starting to see why this projector is so cheap. Having said that, I still would have bought it even if I knew that I would have the blob because when I zoom for movies the blob is off the screen in the black bar area and I can't see it unless I have all the lights off which I rarely do when I'm not watching a movie. That and for 1100 dollars I have a very bright awesome looking picture at 158 inches diagonal and can watch with the lights on at 124" diagonal. Can't complain too much I guess.


However, with all the problems I don't think I'll recommend it to others anymore. I recommended it to Archaea and he's having issues too.


----------



## sat24

We were watching Moneyball last night, and we started noticing something really weird.


- The entire screen would lose a couple of 'notches' of brightness, and then it would be back to normal brightness in a second.

- this repeats again and again every 5 secs or so.


I checked the auto-iris, and it was off. I toggled it thru other settings, and it didnt seem to make any difference.


My lamp has 529 hours on it. Is it time to call Epson







?


Appreciate any help - this thing is driving me a bit crazy!!!


----------



## sat24




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sat24* /forum/post/21728607
> 
> 
> We were watching Moneyball last night, and we started noticing something really weird.
> 
> 
> - The entire screen would lose a couple of 'notches' of brightness, and then it would be back to normal brightness in a second.
> 
> - this repeats again and again every 5 secs or so.
> 
> 
> I checked the auto-iris, and it was off. I toggled it thru other settings, and it didnt seem to make any difference.
> 
> 
> My lamp has 529 hours on it. Is it time to call Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> Appreciate any help - this thing is driving me a bit crazy!!!



Ended up playing with the settings - here's what I found:


- Problem goes away entirely as I do things that increase lamp brightness output; so:

- switch to Dynamic/Room makes the flickering go away

- even in the default mode, if I switch from ECO->NORMAL, then the flickering almost goes away entirely


???


----------



## Archaea

When i've had experiences like that on past projectors it was because of wall power issues. If my projector is hooked up to a UPS or a power filter all dimming goes away.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1393858


----------



## Barry Hartmann




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21399510
> 
> 
> IIRC, on an LCD you can't have Burn-In (like a plasma or CRT). However, you can get temporary Image Retention.
> 
> 
> I have a 24" Dell LCD (IPS panel based). When it was new, the Calendar gadget gave it IR. I just ran the built in "rotating color slides" (they call it LCD Conditioning) ... and it fixed/erased it.
> 
> 
> Take a cue from the plasma guys. They have a set of rotating color slides you can download. My plasma has a built-in IR-Eraser ... just a thick white bar that moves down the screen over a black background. Sounds like you are running a HTPC, so it would be easy to run something like this.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the "heads up" on this though. Since we have had plasmas for over 5 years now, we have trained ourselves to zoom 4:3 content and turn the screen power off if paused for long periods. Thankfully, now-days, we mostly watch digital 16:9 TV or movies with minimal bars.



I had noticed this behavior and for months attributed it to weirdness with my HTPC. However after a new HTPC was installed I noticed the same behavior and then when the image retention carried over to another source (Blu-Ray) I then starting checking the rest of the setup. After various source switch it became clear I had an issue with the projector.


I called Epson and talked to a fairly rude individual who kept insisting that I let him speak instead of me finishing my full rundown of troubleshooting steps. Nonetheless I ended the call with them offering to send a replacement unit.


I'm worried about the issue coming back though. The biggest culprit is a DVD menu. Scenario happens all of the time in my house, kid's put on a movie and then it finishes and ends up on the menu screen for an extended time. The latest one was Mulan, white background with lots of Chinese lettering which is now ghosted onto my screen when I watch other content.


I had also noticed obvious signs of 4:3 bar presence that I can now attribute to this same phenomenon in all likelihood.


Would be curious if others are seeing anything remotely similar.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tannergreer* /forum/post/21725544
> 
> 
> What kind of mounts are you guys using on your 8350's. I just bought one and am searching for the best mount!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tanner



Ah, the million dollar question. You can do a thread search on "ceiling mount" and be directed to the posts discussing the issue.


I have the Chief mount. Very well made, sturdy, adjustable, and well designed with an adapter plate made for the 8350.


Others here have used the "universal mounts" available from several sources with limited success so YMMV with those. I don't know of anyone here that has had any issues with either the Peerless or Chief mounts for the Epson, not so much with the universals.


I went through Projector People (forum sponsor) and they set me up with exactly what I needed.


Hope this helps.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## SmokenAshes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tannergreer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What kind of mounts are you guys using on your 8350's. I just bought one and am searching for the best mount!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tanner



I'm using the universal mount from visual apex.


----------



## SmokenAshes

Had anyone ever calibrated their projector using the WOW disc you get from visual apex? Watching Avatar on my new 8350 it doesn't seem like I need to calibrate it. The picture looks beautiful and has that pop look. It's also only on natural and not dynamic. What you guys suggest, calibrate or leave it alone?


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes* /forum/post/21731667
> 
> 
> Had anyone ever calibrated their projector using the WOW disc you get from visual apex? Watching Avatar on my new 8350 it doesn't seem like I need to calibrate it. The picture looks beautiful and has that pop look. It's also only on natural and not dynamic. What you guys suggest, calibrate or leave it alone?



If it looks good to you that is all that matters, right? So if you are happy then why bother. However, if you are the type where you won't be happy until you get the last little bit of goodness out of the PJ then you won't be happy UNTIL you do some calibration. So you are the best one to determine your course of action. I say if you are happy with the image then leave it alone.


Just my .02 worth.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## uncola

Hey domingos, yes you do need to register the projector with epson.. there's no card or anything.. you have to use the cd that came with the projector.. it takes you to a registration form/web page.. can't remember which. write down your serial number first, I remember I needed that


----------



## SmokenAshes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey domingos, yes you do need to register the projector with epson.. there's no card or anything.. you have to use the cd that came with the projector.. it takes you to a registration form/web page.. can't remember which. write down your serial number first, I remember I needed that



What CD? I don't remember a cd being in the box.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uncola* /forum/post/21732686
> 
> 
> Hey domingos, yes you do need to register the projector with epson.. there's no card or anything.. you have to use the cd that came with the projector.. it takes you to a registration form/web page.. can't remember which. write down your serial number first, I remember I needed that



so if i don't register it my warranty is void?


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21733726
> 
> 
> so if i don't register it my warranty is void?



nah- i didn't register mine and they looked it up in their system and just took me at my word that it was a couple months old. just call them at their tech support number listed on their site.


----------



## uncola

It's this cd guys


----------



## tannergreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE* /forum/post/21731652
> 
> 
> Ah, the million dollar question. You can do a thread search on "ceiling mount" and be directed to the posts discussing the issue.
> 
> 
> I have the Chief mount. Very well made, sturdy, adjustable, and well designed with an adapter plate made for the 8350.
> 
> 
> Others here have used the "universal mounts" available from several sources with limited success so YMMV with those. I don't know of anyone here that has had any issues with either the Peerless or Chief mounts for the Epson, not so much with the universals.
> 
> 
> I went through Projector People (forum sponsor) and they set me up with exactly what I needed.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> RTROSE



Thanks so much for the info. Will take it to heart.


Tanner


----------



## midblue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tannergreer* /forum/post/21725544
> 
> 
> What kind of mounts are you guys using on your 8350's. I just bought one and am searching for the best mount!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tanner



A lot of people recommend the Chief mount but I just bought the NPL mount from MountDirect ( http://www.mountdirect.com/ ) and I can HIGHLY recommend it. It uses standard 1.5" NPT pipe just like the Chief mount so the drop distance is customizable, and the mount itself has easy-to-adjust screws. Screws fit perfectly on the 8350. The setup feels very solid, I'm pretty sure I could have hung by the pipe. Very professional looking installation, I was able to run the cables through the ceiling and there are no visible screws or bolts after it's all done. Also, with shipping it is about half the cost of the Chief mount.


----------



## shelly

I just ordered the 8350 from PP, whose sales person tried *very hard* for 20 minutes to talk me out of it, pushing the Pan 100U and the LG 181 instead of it, especially if I was concerned with picture quality. I suspect some agenda here but listened respectfully.


And suggesting that my right-side-up, mid-room shelf mount close to the ceiling near the top of my high mounted screen was inappropriate for a front pj which should be upside down from a ceiling mount. It's worked just fine with my Sanyo.


But I appreciate their return policy so went ahead with my 8350 purchase, especially due to the great vertical lens shift, great reviews and this thread.


It's my 3rd pj, having a Sony lcd (around $5000) some 10 years ago and the Sanyo Z4 from 5 years ago ($1700 and currently in operation).


Onward and upward, cheaper and cheaper through the years, and looking forward to a better picture.


Thanks for this thread which has been full of knowledge and support.


Shelly


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shelly* /forum/post/21738654
> 
> 
> I
> 
> 
> It's my 3rd pj, having a Sony lcd (around $5000) some 10 years ago and the Sanyo Z4 from 5 years ago ($1700 and currently in operation).
> 
> 
> 
> Shelly



In the last 6 months I replaced a Z4-era Panasonic (LC76) with an 8350. Huge improvement in picture quality. I got many years of enjoyment from the prior projector, and expect to do the same again.


It appears Panasonic is trying very hard to sell the 100 right now for dirt cheap prices.


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21722178
> 
> 
> well - great...
> 
> 
> I got the refurb projector in from epson tonight. It has a dustblob front and center on the screen and it's not on the outside lens. I called my wife down and asked her if I was being picky - expecting her to say yes. She said no - that bothers me more than the off color on the sides -- send it back.
> 
> 
> sigh....
> 
> 
> Keithrwhiteside, you went through five of them eh? My first one new from bestbuy was perfect. I'm half tempted to go buy another one from best buy and return this one as defective under the new receipt. I'm not sure if the ethics are 100% on that, but darn - I bought a new projector I would expect it to last more than a couple months before playing the refurb game with epson... You can't tell me they wouldn't see that dust blob in their refurb center. On just the black no source background it shows up.



Third one has a strange issue too though it seems the bigger I make the picture the less obvious it is. The diagonal left bottom corner and the top right corner are alternately out of focus. What's that called? If put the bottom left in sharp focus using the focus right the top right looks blurry. If I put the top right in sharp focus the bottom left looks blurry. I can meet in the middle and then top right and bottom left both look less sharp than they should. This is the first of the three to have this problem. I guess I'll call again. Epson sending all these things out overnight is losing a lot of money. I never asked for overnight service --- it's nice to have fast service, but I'd prefer to get a single returned projector that has no issues - even if it took a few days... Am I being too picky for a $1250 projector?


----------



## keithrwhiteside

I dont believe your being too pickey. I just believe you have set yourself up for a game where you are never going to find the "perfect" projector. I do believe there is no such thing as a perfect 8350 as far as i am concerned. Although this could be true for all lcd projectors. I had an hc1500 dlp and never had any complaints. To this day it still works beautifully. The only reason i bought the 8350 was due to a new house and needed lens shift for superbowl. I just "settled" and got the last "new" one from bestbuy and said i wont try to find a problem because i know i will if i look hard enough. Most people just throw it up on screen and say looks good. Most people on here are here because they want the best for there money and you look at other problems and see you have them too and then its a never ending viscious cycle. So idk what to say. You could try to get a "perfect" projector but in all reality its a trade off between sharpness, convergence, color uniformity. It is my belief as this price point and just the technology of lcd you are never going to get one that has all three of the stated things "perfect". If so then my advise would be to get yourself a dlp. Myself the "rainbows" didnt affect me it was strictly a placement problem, or else my mits would be on my shelf now instead of my sons closet lol. And as far as epson, yes they are great in sending projectors overnight but again from my experience now you have sent back 2? I sent back 2 that were "new" and i found problems. Id bet they throw the picture up on screen when they "test" them and it works and they say "ok with epson" and you are getting these projectors. Point is there is so much variance from projector to projector you just have to realize i guess that you will never get a perfect one. I know it seems rediculous that each varies so much from one to another but after 5 i know they do.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21738716
> 
> 
> It appears Panasonic is trying very hard to sell the 100 right now for dirt cheap prices.



This is really not the case, just an error by the marketing dept. However I do agree that Panasonic has decided to go toe to toe (price-wise) with the Epson 8350 which has been shipping since September 2010.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sat24* /forum/post/21728607
> 
> 
> We were watching Moneyball last night, and we started noticing something really weird.
> 
> 
> - The entire screen would lose a couple of 'notches' of brightness, and then it would be back to normal brightness in a second.
> 
> - this repeats again and again every 5 secs or so.
> 
> 
> I checked the auto-iris, and it was off. I toggled it thru other settings, and it didnt seem to make any difference.
> 
> 
> My lamp has 529 hours on it. Is it time to call Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> Appreciate any help - this thing is driving me a bit crazy!!!



I remember reading somewhere on this thread of an identical issue... I believe what they did was run it on normal/dynamic for a few hours and that took care of the issue on ECO. Search the thread, it's in here somewhere.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes* /forum/post/21731667
> 
> 
> Had anyone ever calibrated their projector using the WOW disc you get from visual apex? Watching Avatar on my new 8350 it doesn't seem like I need to calibrate it. The picture looks beautiful and has that pop look. It's also only on natural and not dynamic. What you guys suggest, calibrate or leave it alone?



Hey, if you are happy then call it a day. I will say that I too was happy with my own personal settings, but I went ahead and purchased the WOW disc out of curiosity and it did a great job fine tuning my settings producing a better picture.


Only way for you to know for sure is to run the disc and save the settings into one of the memory slots of the projector. That way you can compare and contrast old settings to the new ones.


----------



## A-Rone

I am a member of the 8350 Club now. Picked one up from Best Buy last night. I was able to plug and play it last night for a bit but needed to put it away until my remodel on the house is done. I shot it onto a white sheet just to see what was what. I can unequivocally say that this thing is impressive for sure. It's my first PJ and I'm so excited to get it up and running.


I will be shooting the image onto a doable board from home depot for the time being. I have plans to get a Focupix 100" tensioned screen in the fall so the doable board will have to do for now. Hopefully I can get things wrapped up enough to set the PJ up this weekend. I will have to read through this thread yet again to make sure I tweak the PJ to the best it can be. I'm sure I'll have questions along the way. Thanks to all of you who contribute to this fantastic thread.


----------



## lup1024

Newbie here giving strong consideration to 8350..and need some advice.

I was ready to pull the trigger on Mits HC4000 but after reading through many of the forums it seems like it lacks the placement flexibility that the Epson has (I think??)


Here are my measurements


Floor to Ceiling height- 90"

Screen diag- 106"

Projector Distance to Screen- 13' 5"


My goal is to mount the projector as reasonably close to the ceiling as possible which translates from ceiling to bottom of projector at 12". The projector needs to go over the sofa so I must keep it as high as possible.


In terms of the screen I would like to mount it 12 inches from the ceiling.


Will this work? Will I have to play with keystone? and lose picture quality.


Thought? Opinions? Suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## lespurgeon

no worry on keystone. The Epson has image shift that will cover you. You can even put the projector off to one side if that improves your layout. Mine lines up with about 1/3 of the screen to the right a & 2/3 to the left of the projector.


----------



## thetater11

I took the plunge and ordered my 1st PJ Monday, the 8350 of course, and got it yesterday. All I can say is WOW! Huge step up from my 47" TV and the picture is amazing right out of the box! Took some time to get it set up best I could (see awesome set up below) just to see what it looked like and wanted to show some screenshots! The picture got 10 times better when it got dark in the room. Screenshots are from an iPhone 4 from the left side of the screen, screen is 120". Room is all beige and white.

Attachment 239646 

Attachment 239647 

Attachment 239648 

Attachment 239649 



I posted the text below in the General HT thread but since my PJ is an 8350, I figured I get better reeponses here.


I've done a little reading on some DIY ceiling mounts on the forum and they all look like they work quite well given the dimensions and needs of each perosn, however I have a different issue.


My ceilings are 10'6" and I need the PJ to come down about 2.5' to get it in proper alignment with the screen. My end goal is to have the PJ mounted on the end of a linear actuator ( http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...products_id=64 ) and when it's fully retracted, the PJ will up just below the ceiling. I originaly wanted to make it go into the attic and out of sight but it gets pretty hot up there, so my alternative is to have it just below the ceiling when retracted.


My main issue is that I need to find a solution for mounting the PJ to the end of the actuator. Firgelli Automations has a mounting bracket ( http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...products_id=45 ) but this will not connect to the Chief RPA-168 PJ mount.


Anyone have any ideas on how to attach the end of the actuator to the Chief mount? I was thinking some sort of coupler that would go from the end of the actuator to the 1.5" NPT threaded portion of the Chief mount so it won't spin or yaw but not sure.


Thanks!


----------



## shelly

My 8350 is due to arrive this Saturday.


I have been reading about various "ceiling mounts" in both this and the other Epson pj threads and wanted to share my solution. A spiral staircase that leads to the upstairs goes right next to the shelf for easy adjustments.


If you have ceiling beams, it is a great way to keep the pj in the middle of the room and right side up. Here's my current pj but the Epson will soon take it's place.


Shelly


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thetater11* /forum/post/21745845
> 
> 
> 
> I've done a little reading on some DIY ceiling mounts on the forum and they all look like they work quite well given the dimensions and needs of each perosn, however I have a different issue.
> 
> 
> My ceilings are 10'6" and I need the PJ to come down about 2.5' to get it in proper alignment with the screen. My end goal is to have the PJ mounted on the end of a linear actuator ( http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...products_id=64 ) and when it's fully retracted, the PJ will up just below the ceiling. I originaly wanted to make it go into the attic and out of sight but it gets pretty hot up there, so my alternative is to have it just below the ceiling when retracted.
> 
> 
> My main issue is that I need to find a solution for mounting the PJ to the end of the actuator. Firgelli Automations has a mounting bracket ( http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...products_id=45 ) but this will not connect to the Chief RPA-168 PJ mount.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on how to attach the end of the actuator to the Chief mount? I was thinking some sort of coupler that would go from the end of the actuator to the 1.5" NPT threaded portion of the Chief mount so it won't spin or yaw but not sure.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I would just go ahead and mount above the top of the screen and use lens shift to get the image as low as you need.


----------



## thetater11

Okay, I've come up with a design for my PJ mount...The end goal is now to have the PJ completely out of sight when not in use.


First I'll build an open sided box for the PJ to sit in with drywall on the bottom portin matching the ceiling. The box wil lthen be connected to a 30" stroke linear actuator.


I'll then build a containment box in the attic for the entire assmebly to go up in to when fully retracted, which will be insulated.

Attachment 239786 
Attachment 239787 
Attachment 239788 


With the actuator fully extended, I'll have the PJ come down about 2 feet.


----------



## mcnizzel

thats a cool idea and all but it seems like kind of a lot of work when you could use lens shift to get the picture lower without having it mounted so low in the room.


Is the main goal to hide it when not in use? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything, just curious.


any thoughts on border or something around the dry wall whole and piece on the mount to dress it up a bit? It sounds like you're putting a lot of work into this and I don't know how precisely you could get the dry wall to plug the whole when its away, you'll see some sort of seem. The exposed edge of the dry wall is not really made to stand up to wear, so it may degrade over time unless something is added to it.


----------



## thetater11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/21751368
> 
> 
> thats a cool idea and all but it seems like kind of a lot of work when you could use lens shift to get the picture lower without having it mounted so low in the room.
> 
> 
> Is the main goal to hide it when not in use? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything, just curious.
> 
> 
> any thoughts on border or something around the dry wall whole and piece on the mount to dress it up a bit? It sounds like you're putting a lot of work into this and I don't know how precisely you could get the dry wall to plug the whole when its away, you'll see some sort of seem. The exposed edge of the dry wall is not really made to stand up to wear, so it may degrade over time unless something is added to it.



Good questions and thanks for the input.


Yeah, the goal is to keep it out of sight when not in use. I plan on leaving about 1/4" gap around the edge of the bottom drywall section and I was considering two options to cover and gaps in the drywall when it's retracted:


1) Use some small radius corner moulding to make a sort of "frame" around it.


2) Find a white A/C return ceiling vent and attach that to the botton instead of the dry wall piece so it would look like a normal A/C vent in the ceiling.


I also plan on making everything white and doing some nice cable arrangement so it doesn't look horrible when it's extended. I'm more concerned with what it looks like when it's up in the ceiling.


I enjoy DIY solutions and don't mind putting the time in to get it done. I plan on using the lens shift quite a bit but would like to minimize it to maximize picture quality...plus the fact that I think it would be a cool oconversation piece when company is over


----------



## deon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside* /forum/post/21740790
> 
> 
> I dont believe your being too pickey. I just believe you have set yourself up for a game where you are never going to find the "perfect" projector. I do believe there is no such thing as a perfect 8350 as far as i am concerned. Although this could be true for all lcd projectors. I had an hc1500 dlp and never had any complaints. To this day it still works beautifully. The only reason i bought the 8350 was due to a new house and needed lens shift for superbowl. I just "settled" and got the last "new" one from bestbuy and said i wont try to find a problem because i know i will if i look hard enough. Most people just throw it up on screen and say looks good. Most people on here are here because they want the best for there money and you look at other problems and see you have them too and then its a never ending viscious cycle. So idk what to say. You could try to get a "perfect" projector but in all reality its a trade off between sharpness, convergence, color uniformity. It is my belief as this price point and just the technology of lcd you are never going to get one that has all three of the stated things "perfect". If so then my advise would be to get yourself a dlp. Myself the "rainbows" didnt affect me it was strictly a placement problem, or else my mits would be on my shelf now instead of my sons closet lol. And as far as epson, yes they are great in sending projectors overnight but again from my experience now you have sent back 2? I sent back 2 that were "new" and i found problems. Id bet they throw the picture up on screen when they "test" them and it works and they say "ok with epson" and you are getting these projectors. Point is there is so much variance from projector to projector you just have to realize i guess that you will never get a perfect one. I know it seems rediculous that each varies so much from one to another but after 5 i know they do.



I did finally get a perfect one, after three tries. I just kept sending them back.

I have my suspicions, they may be selling referbs as new units - they have thousands of them after all.


----------



## mcnizzel

Well as far as a conversation piece, mission accomplished. It will definitely be something fun and unique. Plus as an added benefit, given the projector footprint of the 8350 you shouldn't have too much trouble fitting some other projector in there in the future. Because lets be honest, if you're on AVS you're getting upgrades at some point!


I work with finishing contractors to do a lot of special cabinets, enclosures etc. on my jobs and for what its worth I think you're MUCH better of going with a nice white molding surround like you suggested. If you attached the molding to the drop down portion under the projector instead of surrounding the whole it would be much easier, and you could cover up a larger gap if need be. You could do something much simpler on the exposed edge of the actual ceiling drywall so that it looks clean when the unit is down.


as far as cable management goes if you attach the cords to the mount securely right near where the actuator hits the projector box, and where the actuator is attached to the ceiling, then measure out the appropriate distance the hdmi cord would simply get pulled pretty taught against the actuator pole as its retracted. Having the cable firmly attached at both ends means you can safely have some slack between where the cable enters the projector box and the inputs, that way you won't have to worry about any damage to the plugs over time. If you used that heat wrap for wires over the whole bunch of cables it would make it for one clean cable inline right with the pole, which obviously you're going to see no matter what.


Another choice may be to the entire box that would contain the projector when its stored in the attic come down. That way you can have a cable mess inside if you wish and no one can see the pole or cables or anything, You could finish the box with a white laminate of appropriate color to match the ceiling/room.


don't know what your room looks like so I just thought I'd throw out a few ideas.


Its great idea though, I do wonder how you're looking budget wise for all of this. If you wouldn't mind sharing it might be nice for the rest of us. Is there a thread you hav started for questions specifically related to the build and not just to the 8350 in general?


----------



## thetater11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/21752325
> 
> 
> Well as far as a conversation piece, mission accomplished. It will definitely be something fun and unique. Plus as an added benefit, given the projector footprint of the 8350 you shouldn't have too much trouble fitting some other projector in there in the future. Because lets be honest, if you're on AVS you're getting upgrades at some point!
> 
> 
> I work with finishing contractors to do a lot of special cabinets, enclosures etc. on my jobs and for what its worth I think you're MUCH better of going with a nice white molding surround like you suggested. If you attached the molding to the drop down portion under the projector instead of surrounding the whole it would be much easier, and you could cover up a larger gap if need be. You could do something much simpler on the exposed edge of the actual ceiling drywall so that it looks clean when the unit is down.
> 
> 
> as far as cable management goes if you attach the cords to the mount securely right near where the actuator hits the projector box, and where the actuator is attached to the ceiling, then measure out the appropriate distance the hdmi cord would simply get pulled pretty taught against the actuator pole as its retracted. Having the cable firmly attached at both ends means you can safely have some slack between where the cable enters the projector box and the inputs, that way you won't have to worry about any damage to the plugs over time. If you used that heat wrap for wires over the whole bunch of cables it would make it for one clean cable inline right with the pole, which obviously you're going to see no matter what.
> 
> 
> Another choice may be to the entire box that would contain the projector when its stored in the attic come down. That way you can have a cable mess inside if you wish and no one can see the pole or cables or anything, You could finish the box with a white laminate of appropriate color to match the ceiling/room.
> 
> 
> don't know what your room looks like so I just thought I'd throw out a few ideas.
> 
> 
> Its great idea though, I do wonder how you're looking budget wise for all of this. If you wouldn't mind sharing it might be nice for the rest of us. Is there a thread you hav started for questions specifically related to the build and not just to the 8350 in general?



Great advice, thanks! Yeah I do plan on attaching the moulding to the drop down portion of the PJ box as opposed to the ceiling like you mentioned, if I decide to go that route.


As far as cables go, I think I'll measure how much I need to get to the PJ when it's fully extended, then wrap it around the actuator arm loosely so it can coil like a phone chord as it goes up and down, and I'll also wrap it with some sort of heat shrink or something to keep it looking nice and held together.


Having the entire box come down is an option, however that would be a lot of stuff to move up and down and then I'd have a big column hanging down from the ceiling and I'd rather just see the actuator arm and a cable around it. The actuator I got is rated for 40 lbs and even though the PJ is only ~16 or so I think, I don't want to add a lot to it so it takes forever to come all the way down, although this actuator will move 1.75"/sec with no load, so we'll see how it does with the PJ on it.


As far as budget goes, so far this is what I've bought for the actuator system:


1) 30" stroke 40lb rated linear actuator from Firgelli Automations - $130

2) Two mounting brackets, one for each end of the actuator also from Firgelli - $36


Still need to get:

1) 110/120VAC to 12V DC 10amp adapter to plug the actuator into (Firgelli also has this but it's $65 and I'm sure I can find it at Radio Shack or somewhere else cheape and not have to pay shipping on it)

2) 3-way momentary rocker switch for actuator control

3) Wood/drywall/insulation for PJ box and attic housing

4) Hardware

5) Need to run another electrical circuit in the ceiling to plug in the PJ and actuator but this will only cost me a 12 pack of brew since I have friend who's an electrician


I believe that's it. I'm thinking I'll be in about $300-$350 for the whole setup, plus a weekend or two of my time!


This isn't too bad considering if would have just mounted the PJ to the ceiling directly, I would have to get one of those Chief mounts and correct me if I'm wrong but those are around $160 or so, so I don't think this is too bad on the pocket.


I'll post more pictures as I start the build. Still waiting on the actuator to be delivered, then I'll start fine tuning measurements in my ceiling for placement and getting the rest of the supplies.


This is all going in my living room which is about 14' W and is very deep since it's an open floorplan to the kitchen but the couch is about 13' 5" from the screen and PJ will be mounted 16' from screen which is 120"


I posted this a couple days ago in the General Home Theater thread but since I do have an 8350 I decided to post it here, plus this thread seems to get a lot more views.


And I should have my receiver and speakers delivered by the end of the week, and soon following will be a DIY 120" BOC screen build as well. Right now I just want to get the PJ mounted so I can stop having to put it on a shelf behind the couch...get's anoyying moving that thing around!!


----------



## shelly

Question about changing setting and memory.


If I change color temperature, gamma, auto iris on, and flesh tone, do I have to press the memory button to save the changes for each preset like living room or cinema or are they universal?


If I change rgb or contrast or brightness, etc., do these just apply to the picture mode. that I am in? And I would have to press memory to save them?


So I am asking when and how memory is used.


Thanks.


EDIT: I called Epson support with my questions and learned that changes to settings are stored for each Input and Color Mode separately so that I would have to make changes to settings for each Color Mode (Living Room, cinema et al) within an Input.


But the pj will remember these settings even when the pj is turned off and on again the following day so it would not be necessary to create a Memory. Memory would only be used if I decided to have multiple settings within a single Color Mode for an Input.


My 8350 comes tomorrow and I expect to hit the ground running with it.


Shelly


----------



## joelq

Well, I'm late to the 8350 party, but better late than never!  I had set out today to get an Optoma HD20 over the 8350, mainly because of the price, but Fry's happened to have the 8350 on sale today for $999! So I jumped on it. I'll be picking it up tomorrow as the only Fry's that still had one in stock is about 40 miles away. Can't wait!


----------



## shelly

I received my 8350 today, set it up (my new 40' high speed hdmi cable was defective, which took about an hour of troubleshooting to discover it was the cable and not the pj--I know, we've all been there before) and it is a great improvement over my Sanyo Z4.


Fortunately my current 40' hdmi works flawlessly so I am using it but had planned on having two hdmi cables connected to the pj for different sources, with the Oppo bluray player having a direct connection to the Epson bypassing the receiver, which gets the audio from the 2nd hdmi out on the Oppo.


Better colors, flesh tone and punchier picture than the older pj Great contrast and shadow detail. I used the Cinema mode in my fairly dark at night theater room. Also made the few changes to color temperature, gamma, flesh tone, eco lamp et al suggested by the projectorcentral review.


Watched Hugo.


No dust blobs, great color uniformity as no blue or red tints anywhere on the screen, great focus although the sides not as razor sharp as the middle of the screen.


I purchased from Projector People and have under 4 hours to qualify for free return but have decided it's a keeper.


One thing is bugging me, however. When I checked the lamp timer after watching the 2 hour long Hugo, and about an hour of setup earlier in the day, *the lamp timer shows 0 hours.*


According to the manual, when you replace the lamp and reset the lamp hour timer, it will show 0 hours until you reach 10 hours of use. *So it appears that the lamp timer was reset.*

*Any other explanations?*


If this was a return to them or a refurb from Epson, it is a mighty fine one indeed for the first day of viewing.


Shelly


----------



## mcnizzel

it hasn't been reset, brand new ones won't show hours until you hit 10 plus either. no worries


----------



## shelly

So how would the folks at Projector People know if someone has used the pj for more than 4 hours?


Their policy is to accept returns within 30 days with no restocking fee if the lamp timer is under 4 hours but with a 15% restocking fee if the lamp timer shows 4-10 hours of use.


Shelly


----------



## mcnizzel

most electronics these days have some special service or maintenance menu that shows more information than the standard menu. On most projectors ( if not all these days) the service menu shows the total hours on the unit, not just the hours on the current lamp timer. This is why if you watch if for 50 hours in a month and send it back they'll call shenanigans.


----------



## shelly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnizzel* /forum/post/21762791
> 
> 
> most electronics these days have some special service or maintenance menu that shows more information than the standard menu. On most projectors ( if not all these days) the service menu shows the total hours on the unit, not just the hours on the current lamp timer. This is why if you watch if for 50 hours in a month and send it back they'll call shenanigans.




Thanks for the explanation. It helps me feel much better that I did not get a returned unit.


It sure looked like brand new packaging throughout the box when I unpacked everything. And the pj performed as good as I could want.


Shelly


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shelly* /forum/post/21762768
> 
> 
> Fortunately my current 40' hdmi works flawlessly so I am using it but had planned on having two hdmi cables connected to the pj for different sources, with the Oppo bluray player having a direct connection to the Epson bypassing the receiver, which gets the audio from the 2nd hdmi out on the Oppo.



They make splitters and 4x2 switches. I have a long run also (must be low AWG ... like 22). See my post history about both.


But, through the receiver should be fine. Set it to "through" or not to modify. AVRs don't usually change or scale 1080p anyway.


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deon* /forum/post/21751688
> 
> 
> I did finally get a perfect one, after three tries. I just kept sending them back.
> 
> I have my suspicions, they may be selling referbs as new units - they have thousands of them after all.



I got a perfect one too this third time.


Original purchase unit developed weird tint issues on the left and right of the screen at about 160 hours use - not overly bad, but noticable on white screens. Very difficult to see on the pattern test.


1st refurb replacement had a dust blob in the middle top of the screen that was noticable on any dark scene - annoyed me, but was impossible to see on the pattern test.


2nd refurb replacement had two corners that would only alternately come into focus for PC text at 1080p. If I put one in focus, the other corner would go out of focus, and vice-versa. This was impossible to tell on the pattern, but easy to see on any PC connection via HDMI - checked two different PCs.


None of these problems were shared - all unique to each projector and all nearly impossible if not impossible to see on the pattern screens.


3rd refurb = perfect! - YES -- finally - thank you epson.



So of the three projectors I'm sending back - the original purchase, the 1st, and 2nd projector - if all epson does is check the pattern - they are going to be sending out defective projectors AGAIN to their customers. I tried to tell them this on the phone -- that pattern screen is NOT the tell all to see if the projector is in perfect working condition...I don't think my advice gained any traction. Good luck with the refurbs boys -- I think there will soon be 3 more turds in the refurb pool!


----------



## curtlots

Their been counters must be telling them otherwise, but it would sure make common sense to me to do a little QC before sending out all these marginal projectors. They must count on all the "average Joe" buyers not noticing the issues the more discerning AVS'ers notice. I hope to join the 8350 ranks soon.


----------



## DevonS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcmountainman* /forum/post/19635250
> 
> 
> ...According to the manual(pg 40 ) I should be able to get more than that. For instance when I tried to calibrate color with the bench mark high def blu ray and I displayed the color bar pattern I should be able to isolate colors (RGB) but all I get is the geometry pattern. So is this normal ?



The manual states:
_If you're using a commercially available color calibration DVD, you can display a color-bar

test pattern and then filter colors in the image by pressing the Pattern button. Select one of the

Color Isolation options for the color you want to filter (R/G/B). This lets you adjust color settings

without holding a filter over your eyes while making adjustments. Press the Esc button when

you're done._


Does this work? All I see is the big cross-hairs target-looking pattern. How do you access the "Color Isolation" options?


----------



## smokarz

Does selecting "Expanded HDMI" means the projector is expecting an RGB 0-255 signal?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21768925
> 
> 
> Does selecting "Expanded HDMI" means the projector is expecting an RGB 0-255 signal?



It seems to be an adaptive setting on the 8350, I get the same brightness and contrast settings using expanded and feeding it a full or limited signal. If I remember correctly, it's been a bit since I played with the settings.


----------



## shelly

When I decided to upgrade my pj, I went to the projector central.com site, read up on the top 10, assessed my need for adequate lens shift, set my budget and decided to buy the 8350.


No regrets at all as of now but still in the first 10 hour stage.


I changed some settings based on the projector central review--auto iris on, color temp to 7500, super white on, eco lamp mode, skin tone to 4, gamma to 2.4--for the Living Room and Cinema modes, which I use the most.


Great picture. Even my wife is impressed on the upgrade in picture quality from our previouos Sanyo Z4, which makes sense going from a 720p to a 10080p pj.


Reading this thread lead me to the other Internet review by projector reviews.com, a site I had not known of despite being on my 3rd projector now.


So here's my question, and I know that every individual 8350 is probably different--why are the recommended settings so different?


Projector central, other than the changes I mentioned above, suggests a slight boost to green gain and bias, about +3 for each in the cinema mode. That's it.


Projector review calibration suggests lowering green gain by -1 but keeping green bias at 0. And they recommend lowering red bias by -5 and blue bias by -1. Other changes to the red gain of -1. This is also for the Cinema mode.


Now I have not changed any of the rgb settings recommended by each of these review sites but probably will, saving them to a Memory, to see the affect.


But the two reviews struck me as having different agendas, although that word isn't quite right. PC heartily recommends the 8350 but PR, with their latest review of the Pan 100, seems to unequivocally lean in that direction and does not use the 8350 for comparison, rather using a different Epson model.


Since I have always read every PC review, maybe it's me that has the agenda, who knows?


I think that I have gone through this entire thread but cannot recall seeing anyone's calibrated settings, other than the oft made changes based on the projector central review.


Have I missed the calibration settings of our forum members?


Shelly


----------



## DevonS

Calibration settings are very specific for your environment. Ambient lighting, screen material and color, even the production date of the projector may cause slight differences. Download the AVS HD calibration disc from here . using someone else's calibration settings, unless their setup is identical to yours, probably won't yield the results you expect or even desire. Now if I could find out the answer to my last question I could finish calibrating mine


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shelly* /forum/post/21769976
> 
> 
> Have I missed the calibration settings of our forum members?



Yes.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5974


----------



## Cfrederick

auto iris


----------



## Charles R

When Epson ships a replacement via FedEx do they require a signature?


Thanks.


----------



## Cfrederick

I have an 8350 and have had 5 due to various problems. Last night I got an error message auto iris failure. Turned projector off and on and it seemed OK with error message gone. I am getting very frustrated removing projector from ceiling and replacing with another. This has been going on since NOV 11. Does anyone think I would have any luck with in getting Epson to give a different model.


----------



## pacemaker

After a years use and about 900 hours i have noticed the fan has started to 'rumble' or 'drone'

i checked the filters plus it seems to settle doen after 15 mins use

any ideas?


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21762812
> 
> 
> I got a perfect one too this third time.
> 
> 
> Original purchase unit developed weird tint issues on the left and right of the screen at about 160 hours use - not overly bad, but noticable on white screens. Very difficult to see on the pattern test.
> 
> 
> 1st refurb replacement had a dust blob in the middle top of the screen that was noticable on any dark scene - annoyed me, but was impossible to see on the pattern test.
> 
> 
> 2nd refurb replacement had two corners that would only alternately come into focus for PC text at 1080p. If I put one in focus, the other corner would go out of focus, and vice-versa. This was impossible to tell on the pattern, but easy to see on any PC connection via HDMI - checked two different PCs.
> 
> 
> None of these problems were shared - all unique to each projector and all nearly impossible if not impossible to see on the pattern screens.
> 
> 
> 3rd refurb = perfect! - YES -- finally - thank you epson.
> 
> 
> 
> So of the three projectors I'm sending back - the original purchase, the 1st, and 2nd projector - if all epson does is check the pattern - they are going to be sending out defective projectors AGAIN to their customers. I tried to tell them this on the phone -- that pattern screen is NOT the tell all to see if the projector is in perfect working condition...I don't think my advice gained any traction. Good luck with the refurbs boys -- I think there will soon be 3 more turds in the refurb pool!



Well, seems like you got a pretty good "turd" out of that "pool".........


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *par4* /forum/post/21779684
> 
> 
> Well, seems like you got a pretty good "turd" out of that "pool".........



I did!


but putting three back in the pool is what concerns me, because none of my issues were visible on the standard test pattern check epson likes to use to verify issues. I hope they actually review mine and fix the issues before sending them out again!


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DevonS* /forum/post/21767509
> 
> 
> The manual states:
> _If you’re using a commercially available color calibration DVD, you can display a color-bar
> 
> test pattern and then filter colors in the image by pressing the Pattern button. Select one of the
> 
> Color Isolation options for the color you want to filter (R/G/B). This lets you adjust color settings
> 
> without holding a filter over your eyes while making adjustments. Press the Esc button when
> 
> you’re done._
> 
> 
> Does this work? All I see is the big cross-hairs target-looking pattern. How do you access the "Color Isolation" options?



I believe this applies only to the 8700.


I would suspect that there is something similar in the 8350 but is left "un-enabled" at the service-menu level.


Anybody have SM info yet????


----------



## Ronaldore

Everything thing is great except for one thing, the black levels are fairly uneven across the screen. The bottom left is more than a few shades darker than the top right. This becomes less noticeable when the auto iris engages. Is this the same for all 8350's or did I get a lemmon? It's something I could live with but if it is just this particular projector I will exchange for another.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronaldore* /forum/post/21781179
> 
> 
> Everything thing is great except for one thing, the black levels are fairly uneven across the screen.



Give the bulb a little time to mellow out before you get too concerned.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea* /forum/post/21780125
> 
> 
> I hope they actually review mine and fix the issues before sending them out again!



Virtually any projector never gets _fixed_. In most cases it's an optical block issue which would have to be replaced and at that point it's cheaper to simply replace the projector. They get used as warranty replacements and sold as B stock. I know everyone likes to trumpet how great Epson customer service is by overnighting a replacement and I guess compared to others it is nice. I just feel what they send out is beyond poor quality control. If their typical customer doesn't care that's fine and I can't blame them (I guess).


However they could at least offer a slightly more expensive version (of the same model) that performs within the top 10% of that model. I know I would gladly pay the premium as I have given up several times over the years attempting to find a _keeper_ and have the fortune of trying once again for someone. And no I'm not being overly picky... simply looking for an image without visible flaws with normal content.


----------



## carp

Mine just died, perfect timing since I won't get a replacement turd until Monday.


----------



## Conspiracy*

Found an 8350 open item at a local best buy. I am going to pick it up and hope for the best. With 30 days to return and no restocking fee I have my fingers crossed!


----------



## EJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy** /forum/post/21787246
> 
> 
> Found an 8350 open item at a local best buy. I am going to pick it up and hope for the best. With 30 days to return and no restocking fee I have my fingers crossed!



How much?


When you check the menu, how many hours are on the lamp? I'd also make sure it was a customer return, and not an in-store demo unit.


Good luck!


----------



## Conspiracy*




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EJ* /forum/post/21787387
> 
> 
> How much?
> 
> 
> When you check the menu, how many hours are on the lamp? I'd also make sure it was a customer return, and not an in-store demo unit.
> 
> 
> Good luck!




Open item $1129.99 with tax 1209.08


I don't know how to check the bulb life...I was planning on looking it up before leaving the store with it.


----------



## Charles R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy** /forum/post/21787513
> 
> 
> Open item $1129.99 with tax 1209.08
> 
> 
> I don't know how to check the bulb life...I was planning on looking it up before leaving the store with it.



Fry's was $999 last week... not sure if it's still at that price now. I checked out three (two via the swap program) and gave up. Told the guy I was checking them out for to give up. After three strikes it's not worth it.


----------



## mcnizzel

agreed, you can do better than that price, or atleast get a new sealed one for it.


also You could buy anywhere besides worstbuy


----------



## mcnizzel

I know most of us use a smart remote of some kind in our setups. I'm wondering if anyone here can sell an epson remote for this projector (or an epson remote from another PJ that would work the 8350) just pm me if thats a possibility, thanks


----------



## cream puff

have any of you 8350 guys gone from an optoma HD 20 to the epson? if so id like to hear your thoughts in this thread please


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1400460 



thanks


----------



## liveinxs

i am looking to order my epson hd8350 this thursday, i am very excited, seems to be some good word about it on the forums...


i plan on using the visual apex 92" electric tension screen...


does anyone have any experience with this screen...


thanks


----------



## smokarz

anyone calibrated their projector with an HTPC? if yes, i like to know what your settings are (both on the HTPC and the projector) as well as your calibration procedures. thanks


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21784699
> 
> 
> Mine just died, perfect timing since I won't get a replacement turd until Monday.



Got the replacement today, it won't focus all of the screen at the same time so Epson is sending me a new one that should be here tomorrow.


----------



## Archaea

Ha! Bottom left and too right alternately? I'd so you might have got my return?


----------



## carp

No, top right corner out of focus and when you focus that the rest of the screen was out of focus.


It was nice to see that a new (if it was really new) bulb wasn't that much brighter than my 600 hour bulb.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21798853
> 
> 
> Got the replacement today, it won't focus all of the screen at the same time so Epson is sending me a new one that should be here tomorrow.



Just a suggestion, but when you send back the old one ... you might want to include a note taped to the top, explaining exactly what the problem is and how to re-create it.


Like some of you said ... some problems don't show on Test Pattern or even always. I like to think that if the techs knew exactly what to look for, they would fix them.


What do you guys think?


----------



## par4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856* /forum/post/21800709
> 
> 
> Just a suggestion, but when you send back the old one ... you might want to include a note taped to the top, explaining exactly what the problem is and how to re-create it.
> 
> 
> Like some of you said ... some problems don't show on Test Pattern or even always. I like to think that if the techs knew exactly what to look for, they would fix them.
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?



Excellent suggestion.


----------



## joelq

Hi all -


I've had my 8350 for about 1.5 weeks, currently just projecting to a white knockdown-textured wall. I plan to build a fixed screen using either white or gray fabric from carlofet.com. Here are more details:


- 150" diagonal from 16', ceiling mounted

- walls and ceiling are all painted dark blue

- carpet is a light gray


Although the room can be completely dark, I like to have a table lamp (60 watt bulb) on so I can read, see the remote buttons, etc. The lamp is towards the back of the room, opposite the screen, about 17' away.


Should I go for a gray 0.8 gain screen for better contrast since I like to have a little bit of light on? Or should I go with a white 1.0+ gain screen because I'm throwing from so far away and enlarging a lot?


Or is it a wash?


Thanks!


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joelq* /forum/post/21803289
> 
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for about 1.5 weeks, currently just projecting to a white knockdown-textured wall. I plan to build a fixed screen using either white or gray fabric from carlofet.com. Here are more details:
> 
> 
> - 150" diagonal from 16', ceiling mounted
> 
> - walls and ceiling are all painted dark blue
> 
> - carpet is a light gray
> 
> 
> Although the room can be completely dark, I like to have a table lamp (60 watt bulb) on so I can read, see the remote buttons, etc. The lamp is towards the back of the room, opposite the screen, about 17' away.
> 
> 
> Should I go for a gray 0.8 gain screen for better contrast since I like to have a little bit of light on? Or should I go with a white 1.0+ gain screen because I'm throwing from so far away and enlarging a lot?
> 
> 
> Or is it a wash?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



that projector will not be able to light up a screen that big


----------



## joelq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21803445
> 
> 
> that projector will not be able to light up a screen that big




Thanks for the feedback! Maybe its because I'm a projector newbie, but I've got it already projecting a 150" diagonal image onto my wall, and I'm already very impressed by the picture and its brightness.  To your point, though, does that mean I should go with a white screen?


----------



## uncola

If you can control the light, I'd go for a white screen. . low gain grey might be too dim at that size/distance


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joelq* /forum/post/21803546
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! Maybe its because I'm a projector newbie, but I've got it already projecting a 150" diagonal image onto my wall, and I'm already very impressed by the picture and its brightness.  To your point, though, does that mean I should go with a white screen?



White. A table lamp will not impact the picture that much. If it does, just get another kind of lamp that focuses the light down instead of dispersing, like in ceiling can lights. You'll be fine.


----------



## smokarz

Quick question on Iris. Does turning off Iris significantly reduce lumens output, meaning you have a much dimmer picture with Iris off?


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21809520
> 
> 
> Quick question on Iris. Does turning off Iris significantly reduce lumens output, meaning you have a much dimmer picture with Iris off?



Turning it off will give you a brighter picture.


----------



## smokarz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21809566
> 
> 
> Turning it off will give you a brighter picture.



thanks. that's strange.


per data from coderguy's projector calculator, with irish off it's producing around 300 lumens.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21809953
> 
> 
> thanks. that's strange.
> 
> 
> per data from coderguy's projector calculator, with irish off it's producing around 300 lumens.



That sounds like an iris closed setting, not iris off (which should be wide open).


----------



## smokarz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon* /forum/post/21810000
> 
> 
> That sounds like an iris closed setting, not iris off (which should be wide open).




i see. how do i check to make sure the iris is off but not closed? is there even an option on the projector to close the iris?


----------



## cos14

Hi everyone, purchased the cdn version, 8345, 6 weeks ago when my bsmt reno started and now finally the HT room might be ready for the projector this Sunday. I read dutifully every page from this thread and i finally decide to ask your opinion on something i'm not sure will work. The HT room is 11.5 x 17.5 and the ceiling height will be 7'10". Light source is fully controlled, black matte paint on ceiling, dark grey matte paint on walls except the 11.5 screen wall where I painted 3 coats of the Sherwin Williams paint recommended on projectorcentral website. I plan to mount the 8345 from the ceiling 16-16.5 ft away or whatever 9" away from the back wall comes up to and considering a 120" diagonal screen on the wall. Seating will be right below the projector.


Finally my question: should I project the 2:35:1 image for movies onto the wall and use the Elite 100" diagonal 16:9 format white matte screen with 1.0 gain that came with the 8345 bundle in front of the wall when I watch HDTV (sports 90%)? The split between movies and sports is 50-50. I plan to establish the 120" screen on the wall and paint the border with the same matte black paint as the ceiling.

Would the projector work in this setup? Will it still project an awesome picture (my test was on a bed sheet duct tape fom the joists at the time and it looked awesome). I understand that I might need to annually adjust the picture size and sharpness when switching between the two formats, any suggestions on how to just use the wall instead and for what format to apply masking?


Thank you in advance.


----------



## Conspiracy*

Couldnt find anything online significantly cheaper than 1200 at bestbuy. I figure if I find something I still have 3 weeks to return the one I bought. I got their 4 year warranty too because I saw it covers a bulb...so I figure 1 though epson and 1 though bestbuy would cover four years.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smokarz* /forum/post/21810638
> 
> 
> i see. how do i check to make sure the iris is off but not closed? is there even an option on the projector to close the iris?



For the 8350, the first menu screen (picture options) has the iris parameter towards the bottom. Three delicious flavors! Fast, slow, off.


I wish there was a selectable fixed value too. I love the concept of an "aperture" to help black levels (and if implemented properly, focus depth-of-field) but completely dislike dynamic irises. I suspect that in the elusive service menu there might be some reprogrammable parameters. I expect to find a service manual reference sometime after I take my first vacation on the Moon... 


Ages ago, I'd cut black circles to stop-down the lenses on my crt projectors. That and lens-striping to help side-to-side red/blue uniformity. The optics were such that you could do that. Ah... the good old days of stone tools.


----------



## SmokenAshes

I everyone, few questions I have about this bad boy.


Does Cinema color setting improve bulb longevity? I noticed the fan is even more quieter in Cinema mode than Natural mode.


How come the Epson Super White option turned on actually lowers contrast?


Thanks in advance...


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes* /forum/post/21825021
> 
> 
> Does Cinema color setting improve bulb longevity? I noticed the fan is even more quieter in Cinema mode than Natural mode.



It's possible/probable but I don't think you're going to get a definite answer from anyone.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes* /forum/post/21825021
> 
> 
> How come the Epson Super White option turned on actually lowers contrast?



There are a few settings on the Epson that have no purpose, this is one of them.


----------



## luner99

I am torn between the 8350 and the 3010... I really want to pull the trigger but cannot decide without actually seeing them in person. Is there anyone near Nashville/Goodlettsville TN that knows where I can see them actually working? Anyone that ownes one of these live near that I could maybe come by and see? Thanks!


Scott


----------



## lespurgeon

Sorry Scott, I'm more than a thousand miles west. But basic questions:

1) Can you deal with no lens shift, the 3010 has to be centered at either the top or bottom of the screen.

2) Is 3-D more important or 2-d image quality? The 3010 has 3-d, but black level is not as good.

3) Do you intend to game on the projector, the response time on the 8350 is much better.


----------



## luner99

Thanks les - as for your questions:


1) I can probably deal with no lens shift...

2) 3D is not as important as 2D for me at this time. I have a Sharp 60LE835U that is 3D that we dont really utilize that much - http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...C60LE835U.aspx 

3) I will have a PS3 that is my BD player as well so there is potential for gaming.


I guess my main concern is the brightness of my room - this will be in my LR which I dont have full control of light but I do have blinds on every window and with them closed, the room is around 60-70% dark (during the day) and of course more at night.


Scott


----------



## killerloon

hey everyone. I seem to be having an issue an hope you all can help. I have my 8350 hooked up to a computer running windows 7 and i have no red in the image. Everything looks fine on my ps3 and xbox. its just the computer. I did just go from XP to 7 (same computer) and didnt have this issue before the upgrade. any ideas... thanks



EDIT: nevermind... theres a short in my SVGA cable...


----------



## greighn

Pacemaker,


I too have about 1000 hours and my fan has started making a rumbling noise. I do not hear it all the time and sometimes when it does happen, it the goes away after running for a period of time. Otherwise, the unit is fine so I hesitate to send it back and possibly get a worse refurb.


I think I'll keep it until the fan gets too loud, doesn't go quiet again, or plain stops working.


Anyone have any other ideas? Any possible option for user replacement of the fan?


-Gary.


----------



## mbaysing




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greighn* /forum/post/21845370
> 
> 
> Pacemaker,
> 
> 
> I too have about 1000 hours and my fan has started making a rumbling noise. I do not hear it all the time and sometimes when it does happen, it the goes away after running for a period of time. Otherwise, the unit is fine so I hesitate to send it back and possibly get a worse refurb.
> 
> 
> I think I'll keep it until the fan gets too loud, doesn't go quiet again, or plain stops working.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any other ideas? Any possible option for user replacement of the fan?
> 
> 
> -Gary.



Might be a good idea to clean the filter, so the fan doesn't have to work as hard, but it does sound like there's something wrong with the fan.


----------



## bluehash

I just got a refurb 8350 from Epson today. I was so excited to set it up when I returned home until...

Started it up and the Focus ring is stuck. Anyone have this issue before?

Just wondering how it passed testing with a stuck focus ring.

Thanks.

PS: I can turn the zoom ring and I took out the yellow packing around the lens.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluehash* /forum/post/21849558
> 
> 
> I just got a refurb 8350 from Epson today. I was so excited to set it up when I returned home until...
> 
> Started it up and the Focus ring is stuck. Anyone have this issue before?
> 
> Just wondering how it passed testing with a stuck focus ring.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> PS: I can turn the zoom ring and I took out the yellow packing around the lens.



Call Epson...they will send you another replacement 8350.


----------



## bluehash

Thanks! I'm on the phone with them. Will update.


----------



## Grayson73

My current projector is a few inches lower than the bottom edge of the screen. Will the 8350 lens shift be great enough to handle this?


----------



## mbaysing

Should be fine. Mine is mounted a couple of feet above the top of the screen, upside down, and it has no problem shifting the image down far enough. Of course, how far it can shift the image in inches is going to depend on how far the project is back from the screen, but just a few inches should be fine with any reasonable distance from the screen.


Vertical lens shift decreases when you use the horizontal lens shift, so keep it close to the horizontal center.


----------



## Omar Rosales

Hi folks. Got an issue with my 8350. There is a green vertical line on the right side whenever I play a blu-ray. The line isn't there when I play a regular dvd. Tried multiple blu-ray players, hdmi cables, and the green line is there. Has this been discussed before? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Omar Rosales* /forum/post/21852721
> 
> 
> Hi folks. Got an issue with my 8350. There is a green vertical line on the right side whenever I play a blu-ray. The line isn't there when I play a regular dvd. Tried multiple blu-ray players, hdmi cables, and the green line is there. Has this been discussed before? Any help would be appreciated.



That's interesting. I don't know if it's the same or related, but when I feed some standard-def signals from my cable box (Speed Channel) I get a solid green stripe down the right border. I just live with it... that's the only time it appears. Sometimes I'll surf around and disappears when I return to that channel. I don't know what the secret sequence is to make it disappear at will!


Anyway... check the output format on your source for the affected feed. May be similar? Just extrapolating a guess. I'm also routing through a receiver, so there's another variable in the mix.


----------



## Ambrose




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SonyCrusader* /forum/post/21854048
> 
> 
> That's interesting. I don't know if it's the same or related, but when I feed some standard-def signals from my cable box (Speed Channel) I get a solid green stripe down the right border. I just live with it... that's the only time it appears. Sometimes I'll surf around and disappears when I return to that channel. I don't know what the secret sequence is to make it disappear at will!



Going into the options and turning on a little overscan for your cable box input will do the trick.


----------



## kevinwoodward

Can someone point me in the right direction ?


I have the 8350 mounted to a chief mount very close to the

Eight foot ceiling projecting onto a 106 inch screen in a 14 by 13 foot room...


The image projected is wider on the bottom than top by about 3/4 of an inch


I can zoom it out and overlap edges and not notice it, but that's annoying


Do I need to tip it up or down in the front or something like that ???


Thanks in advance....


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21856049
> 
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction ?
> 
> 
> I have the 8350 mounted to a chief mount very close to the
> 
> Eight foot ceiling projecting onto a 106 inch screen in a 14 by 13 foot room...
> 
> 
> The image projected is wider on the bottom than top by about 3/4 of an inch
> 
> 
> I can zoom it out and overlap edges and not notice it, but that's annoying
> 
> 
> Do I need to tip it up or down in the front or something like that ???
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance....



Common mistake with a projector with lens shift...


You need to position the projector facing the wall perpendicularly. You don't aim the projector at the screen itself. It needs to be aimed squarely at the wall the screen is on, directly across from where the projector is placed, and the projector should be level with the floor.


THEN you use the lens shift to position the image onto the screen itself. This retains the rectangular shape as you move it around with the lens shift.


The key is the position of the projector...level with the floor shooting directly across to the opposing wall, without worrying bout the position of the image with regards to the screen. After that. positioning the image with the lens shift is a snap.


----------



## kevinwoodward

It is square and centered to the wall, i know the mount is level just not sure about the projector on the mount, are you saying to level the bottom of the projector, not sure about leveling it to the floor?



also the projector is higher up than the top of the screen...

thanks


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21857230
> 
> 
> It is square and centered to the wall, i know the mount is level just not sure about the projector on the mount, are you saying to level the bottom of the projector, not sure about leveling it to the floor?
> 
> 
> 
> also the projector is higher up than the top of the screen...
> 
> thanks



You MUST ensure that your projector is square and plumb to the screen (the focal plane of the lens must align with the screen). Take a torpedo level and adjust both front to back and left to right, then do it again. THEN make sure it is pointed directly at your screen, not rotated. Also ensure your screen is plumb. Right now it sounds like your PJ is either tipped down a bit and/or the bottom of your screen is farther from the plane of the projector.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21857284
> 
> 
> You MUST ensure that your projector is square and plumb to the screen (the focal plane of the lens must align with the screen). Take a torpedo level and adjust both front to back and left to right, then do it again. THEN make sure it is pointed directly at your screen, not rotated. Also ensure your screen is plumb. Right now it sounds like your PJ is either tipped down a bit and/or the bottom of your screen is farther from the plane of the projector.



Thank you, I will check it out...


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/21857284
> 
> 
> You MUST ensure that your projector is square and plumb to the screen (the focal plane of the lens must align with the screen). Take a torpedo level and adjust both front to back and left to right, then do it again. THEN make sure it is pointed directly at your screen, not rotated. Also ensure your screen is plumb. Right now it sounds like your PJ is either tipped down a bit and/or the bottom of your screen is farther from the plane of the projector.



...you mean square and plumb to the wall the screen is on. The problem is that he has it pointed at the screen itself since, as he mentions, the projector is higher than the screen. That's why the difference in the image size at the top and bottom.


Then you move the image onto the screen with the 8350's lens shift controls. This maintains the rectangular shape and will fit the screen precisely.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21859917
> 
> 
> ...you mean square and plumb to the wall the screen is on. The problem is that he has it pointed at the screen itself since, as he mentions, the projector is higher than the screen. That's why the difference in the image size at the top and bottom.
> 
> 
> Then you move the image onto the screen with the 8350's lens shift controls. This maintains the rectangular shape and will fit the screen precisely.



gotcha...

sounds like i am pointing down

i think there is an adjustment on the chief mount for that

there is no pipe lowering it from the ceiling...


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21860092
> 
> 
> gotcha...
> 
> sounds like i am pointing down
> 
> i think there is an adjustment on the chief mount for that
> 
> there is no pipe lowering it from the ceiling...



Square and plumb to the screen. The wall may or may not be in the same plane as the screen. Yes, read my post, the PJ is either pointing down and/or the screen is pulled away at the bottom.


----------



## kevinwoodward

thanks


----------



## domingos38

what does it mean when u get the auto iris error telling u to call epson?


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21856819
> 
> 
> Common mistake with a projector with lens shift...
> 
> 
> You need to position the projector facing the wall perpendicularly. You don't aim the projector at the screen itself. It needs to be aimed squarely at the wall the screen is on, directly across from where the projector is placed, and the projector should be level with the floor.
> 
> 
> THEN you use the lens shift to position the image onto the screen itself. This retains the rectangular shape as you move it around with the lens shift.
> 
> 
> The key is the position of the projector...level with the floor shooting directly across to the opposing wall, without worrying bout the position of the image with regards to the screen. After that. positioning the image with the lens shift is a snap.



easier said than done

any tips on how to do all this?


----------



## dgehred

Hi all,


Well, at about 10 months in I have my first dust blob. It's noticeable when watching movies at 2.35 aspect ratio, as you only see it in the blacks. It's on the right, a bit above the bottom (maybe 1/8 way up?), which is why it's visible when watching content at the wider aspect ratio. 16x9 TV content is fine (unless it's dark).


So - what are my return options? For the warranty, I should do this now before my 1 year is up I take it? Or can i still return after 1 year? And i take it i get a refurb unit?


Thanks,

-Dan


----------



## bluehash

I'm on my second refurb in 3 days.

Is the convergence issue that bad on myepson or I need to ask for a replacement again? The first one had the focus ring locked.

This is just the menu, not video. Thanks.


1.


http://imgur.com/2k1igl.jpg%5B/IMG%5D


2.


http://imgur.com/YRlX1l.jpg%5B/IMG%5D


----------



## Kilgore

Get them to send another replacement...that one is way off. Epson won't refuse. They are awesome that way.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21864532
> 
> 
> Get them to send another replacement...that one is way off. Epson won't refuse. They are awesome that way.



I would speak to a manager and ask him to personally test the projector before sending it.


shameful.


----------



## bluehash

Thanks Guys.

Update: They are replacing it. I'm unsure how many I have to go through like this.


----------



## mmoore2

Wow. I just received a refurb 8350 yesterday that was doing the exact same thing. It seems to be beyond a convergence problem since the second image is magenta and about a half inch or so off.


I wonder if it's a quality control issue, or if they're getting damaged in shipping. The carton was not the usual type with styrofoam holding the projector, but instead there were a layer of cardboard with just a single sheet of plastic - one on top and one underneath the projector with the plastic sheets making a bit of a cushion. The projector itself was just in a plastic bag. It did still have the foam collar around the lens, though. But it didn't seem like very much protection to me.


But anyway, true to their usual excellent service, they're sending me another one. Hopefully this one will be OK...


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluehash* /forum/post/21864614
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys.
> 
> Update: They are replacing it. I'm unsure how many I have to go through like this.



As many as it takes for you to be 100% satisfied for the full length of your 2 year warranty.


...and that is FAR from shameful. Very, VERY few (almost none) companies have the service Epson has. Most companies would give you the runaround, and wouldn't even consider sending you a replacement more than once.


----------



## bluehash




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmoore2* /forum/post/21864790
> 
> 
> Wow. I just received a refurb 8350 yesterday that was doing the exact same thing. It seems to be beyond a convergence problem since the second image is magenta and about a half inch or so off.
> 
> 
> I wonder if it's a quality control issue, or if they're getting damaged in shipping. The carton was not the usual type with styrofoam holding the projector, but instead there were a layer of cardboard with just a single sheet of plastic - one on top and one underneath the projector with the plastic sheets making a bit of a cushion. The projector itself was just in a plastic bag. It did still have the foam collar around the lens, though. But it didn't seem like very much protection to me.
> 
> 
> But anyway, true to their usual excellent service, they're sending me another one. Hopefully this one will be OK...



We maybe exchanging refurbs.







I can only imaging the returns dept, taking it in from one side and shipping it out the other. How can they miss a focus ring lock and also ad quarter inch convergence issue.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21864809
> 
> 
> As many as it takes for you to be 100% satisfied for the full length of your 2 year warranty.
> 
> 
> ...and that is FAR from shameful. Very, VERY few (almost none) companies have the service Epson has. Most companies would give you the runaround, and wouldn't even consider sending you a replacement more than once.



I'm very thankful for this.


----------



## dgehred

Can someone confirm that there is a 2 year warranty on these PJs?


-Dan


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgehred* /forum/post/21864892
> 
> 
> Can someone confirm that there is a 2 year warranty on these PJs?
> 
> 
> -Dan



yes 2 years


----------



## Lemistral

I've had an Epson 6100 for three years now and I am starting to get the upgrade bug. I noticed that refurb 8700s are becoming available and I'm interested even if it's not that great of a deal. I have couple of qualms though. I do a fair amount of gaming and have been enjoying the mostly lag free nature of the 6100 and while the 8700 isn't terrible in that respect, it is definitely slower. Also, my projector is in a family room with off white walls and ceiling. I have pretty good light control, but I'm just not convinced I'd be able to see much of a difference with the 8700. I do plan on painting the walls a darker color, but the ceiling will never get darker than off white.


Will I see much of an improvement in black level/contrast going from the 6100 to the 8350? Anyone really wish they'd spent the extra money on the 8700?


----------



## uncola

domingo that sucks about your auto iris error, I saw some guys earlier in the thread had to get theirs replaced for that error.. one guy fixed it by unplugged the power cord for a while and plugging it back in.


So I just set up my very first receiver and 5.1 system. I also started using a 25 foot hdmi high speed + ethernet cable.. 22 awg. it's so thick and inflexible I"m scared for my hdmi port on the projector.. my room is small so I push the projector against the back wall and the new thick cable puts bending pressure on the port. so I just ordered this hdmi port saver.. I hope it fixes the issue.. just wanted to let others know about hdmi port savers.. I didn't even know about them until recently.


monoprice has ones like this with a short cable between the ends, they also have right angled port savers

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## Thunder_God_Thor

Hi peeps,


Newbie here on the forum and to projectors. I was pretty much decided on getting this projector until I saw some posts about the dust blobs. But putting that aside Im also concerned about how long the lamp actually lasts rather then what Epson is rating it at.


How long are the lamps lasting for some of you that have already switched in new ones? And how many hours before any significant PQ degradation from lamp wear became visible?


At $300 a pop I sure hope these lamps last at least 3000 hours ?!?.


I was sure about getting one now not so much... answers would be of great help. Thanks!


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38* /forum/post/21860481
> 
> 
> what does it mean when u get the auto iris error telling u to call epson?



The first time I reset the power, the error went away and I called Epson to get it on record. A few weeks later it happened again, resetting the power again cleared it but when I called Epson they said to exchange it as it WILL happen again. I was able to show them my PJ was only a month or two old when it first happened and they sent me a new one for replacement. Calling in that first time to record the incident is what made that happen (along with my sales receipt of course).


Good luck, their service is refreshing these days.


----------



## Lindros88

Is it normal for a new 8350 lamp to run hotter than normal for the first 100 hours or so? I just installed a new lamp for the first time and this new one seems to be running hotter than the last one did.


----------



## nick_danger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lindros88* /forum/post/21867256
> 
> 
> Is it normal for a new 8350 lamp to run hotter than normal for the first 100 hours or so? I just installed a new lamp for the first time and this new one seems to be running hotter than the last one did.



Is it running hotter than the old bulb did during its first 100 hours or is it running hotter than the old bulb did at the end of its life? It makes some order of sense that as the bulb light output decreases, so does its heat output.


----------



## jfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rakstr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The first time I reset the power, the error went away and I called Epson to get it on record. A few weeks later it happened again, resetting the power again cleared it but when I called Epson they said to exchange it as it WILL happen again. I was able to show them my PJ was only a month or two old when it first happened and they sent me a new one for replacement. Calling in that first time to record the incident is what made that happen (along with my sales receipt of course).
> 
> 
> Good luck, their service is refreshing these days.



I had the iris error message about 20 hours in. Unplugged and plugged back in. Called Epson, they said when it happened again they'd replace it. Now 800 hours later, still hasn't happened again.


----------



## Thunder_God_Thor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thunder_God_Thor* /forum/post/21865881
> 
> 
> Hi peeps,
> 
> 
> Newbie here on the forum and to projectors. I was pretty much decided on getting this projector until I saw some posts about the dust blobs. But putting that aside Im also concerned about how long the lamp actually lasts rather then what Epson is rating it at.
> 
> 
> How long are the lamps lasting for some of you that have already switched in new ones? And how many hours before any significant PQ degradation from lamp wear became visible?
> 
> 
> At $300 a pop I sure hope these lamps last at least 3000 hours ?!?.
> 
> 
> I was sure about getting one now not so much... answers would be of great help. Thanks!




anyone ?


----------



## shelly

Your two questions could apply to any projector out there, not just the Epson.


They all get dust blobs (or not) which show as green blotches on dark background. They have been reported for many years, at least through the years that I have had 3 different projectors. Never had one myself.


Lamp life is a guesstimate, some get longer and some folks get shorter number of hours.


I think that you are over thinking the purchase, and you can't beat the price of the 8350 for what you get. It will be the best tv you have ever had.


Why not just hop on board and enjoy what a front projector can do to enhance your theater experience?


Shelly


----------



## Thunder_God_Thor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shelly* /forum/post/21868009
> 
> 
> Your two questions could apply to any projector out there, not just the Epson.
> 
> 
> They all get dust blobs (or not) which show as green blotches on dark background. They have been reported for many years, at least through the years that I have had 3 different projectors. Never had one myself.
> 
> 
> Lamp life is a guesstimate, some get longer and some folks get shorter number of hours.
> 
> 
> I think that you are over thinking the purchase, and you can't beat the price of the 8350 for what you get. It will be the best tv you have ever had.
> 
> 
> Why not just hop on board and enjoy what a front projector can do to enhance your theater experience?
> 
> 
> Shelly




Yeah thats true. I know all PJ's are susceptible to dust which is why that wasn't my main concern. It was more the lamp life.


See the thing is in our house is that with a full family of 6 people I know the PJ will get run at least 4-5 hours (pretty excessive I know) every day as this PJ is going in a living room area and really a replacement for a TV (the living room area ambient light can be controlled pretty well).


With that being said thats around 1825 hours in a year based on 5 hours a day. And it sounds like the lamp doesn't actually last the rated 4000 hours so at $300 for a lamp every year, lol, its quite a bit (assuming roughly a 2000 hour lamp life). 92" screen is the max we can go in the living space. Given the cost of the lamps Ive just been thinking if it would be better to just get a LCD or plasma in the 70" range and call it day and give up the extra 22 or so inches of screen.


If I get a projector the Epson 8350 is definitely the one we will get thats for sure. Its definitely a top performer for the $$$ and it would be nice to have a 16:9 92" screen to watch movies and PS3 gaming.



I guess I was just hoping to see if the actual lamp life is closer to the rated hours or pretty much half to better decide if this would be a good idea.



Thanks for the post though Shelly... Appreciate it.


----------



## Lindros88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick_danger* /forum/post/21867325
> 
> 
> Is it running hotter than the old bulb did during its first 100 hours or is it running hotter than the old bulb did at the end of its life? It makes some order of sense that as the bulb light output decreases, so does its heat output.



I'm certain that it's running hotter than the old bulb was in its first 100 hours. I'm wondering if this is an indication that something is wrong with my projector. The room conditions, projector location, and picture settings are all the same as they were with the first bulb.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jfried* /forum/post/21867888
> 
> 
> I had the iris error message about 20 hours in. Unplugged and plugged back in. Called Epson, they said when it happened again they'd replace it. Now 800 hours later, still hasn't happened again.



I have had this happen to me 3 times, I have about 300 hours total on my epson.


It seems to be related to clicking the power button multiple times, but that may be a fluke, I was able to recover every time just turning it off in the back and back on...


should i look into a replacement?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21868500
> 
> 
> I have had this happen to me 3 times, I have about 300 hours total on my epson.
> 
> 
> It seems to be related to clicking the power button multiple times, but that may be a fluke, I was able to recover every time just turning it off in the back and back on...
> 
> 
> should i look into a replacement?



If you're happy with it otherwise, I might not bother. However, if you wanted to, Epson would replace it. It's really up to you.


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lemistral* /forum/post/21865117
> 
> 
> I've had an Epson 6100 for three years now and I am starting to get the upgrade bug. I noticed that refurb 8700s are becoming available and I'm interested even if it's not that great of a deal. I have couple of qualms though. I do a fair amount of gaming and have been enjoying the mostly lag free nature of the 6100 and while the 8700 isn't terrible in that respect, it is definitely slower. Also, my projector is in a family room with off white walls and ceiling. I have pretty good light control, but I'm just not convinced I'd be able to see much of a difference with the 8700. I do plan on painting the walls a darker color, but the ceiling will never get darker than off white.
> 
> 
> Will I see much of an improvement in black level/contrast going from the 6100 to the 8350? Anyone really wish they'd spent the extra money on the 8700?



I went from the 6100 to the 8350. The 8350 is brighter with better contrast, and has more pop, IMO. I was quite happy with the difference. I didn't notice any difference with gaming.


On the other hand, the jump from the 6100 to the 8700 would be huge. MAJOR difference in contrast, much blacker blacks, plus you get the Frame Interpolation stuff. I would have spent the extra money if I had it, but I'm still happy with the 8350.


----------



## rberger3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgehred* /forum/post/21864892
> 
> 
> Can someone confirm that there is a 2 year warranty on these PJs?
> 
> 
> -Dan



Yup i just received my home cinema 705hd and asked them if it had a 2 year on the bulb as well as the whole unit. They say it's 90 days on the bulb but when i asked them about it the rep said the 2 year covers the bulb too!


----------



## Thunder_God_Thor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21870153
> 
> 
> I went from the 6100 to the 8350. The 8350 is brighter with better contrast, and has more pop, IMO. I was quite happy with the difference. I didn't notice any difference with gaming.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, the jump from the 6100 to the 8700 would be huge. MAJOR difference in contrast, much blacker blacks, plus you get the Frame Interpolation stuff. I would have spent the extra money if I had it, but I'm still happy with the 8350.



^^^ Is there a replacement model in the works for the 8700UB ? It seems its technically no longer in production.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rberger3* /forum/post/21871034
> 
> 
> Yup i just received my home cinema 705hd and asked them if it had a 2 year on the bulb as well as the whole unit. They say it's 90 days on the bulb but when i asked them about it the rep said the 2 year covers the bulb too!



^^^ Do any of you then which is it for the lamp warranty? If the lamp burns out within the two year warranty does Epson replace it or not?


----------



## Tom Ace

Well I have another issue with this projector and this is my 3rd 8350! Now there is a blue dot about 3-4 inches in diameter right in the center of the image, VERY noticeable especially in dark scenes . I have no idea what this is, this is a brand new replacement pj with 70 hours on bulb. I have tried switching hdmi ports, unplugging ,etc... Nothing works and blue dot remains..bout to throw in the towel with Epson.

Help please!


----------



## carp

Has anyone put 1000+ hours on this projector and it still works correctly? It seems almost everyone encounters a problem, myself included. I made it to around 400 hours before a bad dust ball appeared. I currently have 83 hours on the replacement and all is good so far but I know something will go wrong eventually.


----------



## SonyCrusader




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp* /forum/post/21878799
> 
> 
> Has anyone put 1000+ hours on this projector and it still works correctly? It seems almost everyone encounters a problem, myself included. I made it to around 400 hours before a bad dust ball appeared. I currently have 83 hours on the replacement and all is good so far but I know something will go wrong eventually.



I've had one going.... Last I checked (couple weeks back) I was at 2200 hrs. on the original lamp, running eco mode exclusively.


I minimize cycling to keep the lamp happy. It seemed a little dim at this point, so I've swapped it out and have the original as a stand-by. When I did the change, I seem to have kicked up some debris so there are now a couple small, almost negligible "blob" spots. They weren't there before. Mea culpa.


Not that it's perfect... it's my third one after an early round of swaps due to convergence and uniformity issues. This one makes a grindy sound at start up as a filter or something does whatever it does when powered up. The fan is a little louder but not objectionable. It looks good on the screen, though, so I don't want to spin the wheel again, if you know what I mean!


----------



## Nimbus2012

What color are your walls? I have complete dark room no light with black ceiling and dark brown walls and I get a ton of light reflecting onto the ceiling and walls around the screen...


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nimbus2012* /forum/post/21887551
> 
> 
> What color are your walls? I have complete dark room no light with black ceiling and dark brown walls and I get a ton of light reflecting onto the ceiling and walls around the screen...



did you use flat paint or some kind of sheen/satin/gloss?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Anyone here upgrade from a Mitsubishi HC1500? If so please post your upgrade experience.


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thunder_God_Thor* /forum/post/21865881
> 
> 
> Hi peeps,
> 
> 
> Newbie here on the forum and to projectors. I was pretty much decided on getting this projector until I saw some posts about the dust blobs. But putting that aside Im also concerned about how long the lamp actually lasts rather then what Epson is rating it at.



The lamp will last forever because you'll be getting a new projector every few months because of the dust blobs. I'm on my third in a littler over a year, and I have the beginnings of dust blobs again.


Awesome projector, though. And Epson is has great service--I just wish they would figure out the solution.


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kilgore* /forum/post/21864809
> 
> 
> As many as it takes for you to be 100% satisfied for the full length of your 2 year warranty.
> 
> 
> ...and that is FAR from shameful. Very, VERY few (almost none) companies have the service Epson has. Most companies would give you the runaround, and wouldn't even consider sending you a replacement more than once.



I second this. It's the reason I went with Epson. I've used many products from them, and their level of service requires my loyalty. They are, by far, the best service oriented company for the electronic consumer.


----------



## ironman1

Thanks for information and customer service from EPSON. I ordered 8350 and waiting to delivery on next week.


--cheers


----------



## Nimbus2012

Used flat black on ceiling and a darker beige color on walls but seems like the light reflects big time onto the first 3 feet of ceiling and walls coming off the screen. Keep seeing pics posted of completely dark rooms with just the picture from projector but no reflections...


----------



## Natedog07v

I use the 8350 as my main TV in a 1 bed apartment with a decent amount of ambient lighting so it's generally on Dynamic mode unless it's night time with dim to no lighting... i've got about 1500 hours on it thus far and it seems as though it's losing it's brightness, although it still looks awesome... for those who use dynamic more than 70% of the time, how long have you waited until swaping in a new bulb? Also, where's the best place to pick up a replacement at a good price? Thanks!


----------



## domingos38

watched HUGO the other night and all i have to say is WOW


----------



## joelq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nimbus2012* /forum/post/21890742
> 
> 
> Used flat black on ceiling and a darker beige color on walls but seems like the light reflects big time onto the first 3 feet of ceiling and walls coming off the screen. Keep seeing pics posted of completely dark rooms with just the picture from projector but no reflections...



Could it be the sheen of the paint you used? I used a dark blue in eggshell and get a little bit of reflection. Many people use matt which would have the least amount of reflection.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Paint isn't so great for light control. It's generally "flat" or "gloss." Flat just scatters light. Gloss reflects it. They don't kill it, that's to say absorb it.


Best thing to eat the light rather than re-direct it (at a reasonable cost) is black velvet. Not velveteen... velvet. Look up Sy Fabrics and "triple plush velvet." Generally speaking, a good velvet will have one direction where it is highly light-absorbent and is minimally reflective.


It also presents the opportunity to use extreme light control in multi-function rooms. If you'd rather read than submerge into a movie! High-performance treatments can be removed and replaced at will if you frame it up in screen frames or other stand-alone methods.


----------



## atl999

I have HTPC ( with ATI Radeon HD 5700 Series video Card) connected to Epson 8350 via Pioneer VSX-1120 A/V Receiver. The HDMI cable is concealed and runs approximately 30ft. There is a lot of flickering issue due to signal loss. I called support and they recommended to connect PJ directly to my HTPC. That indeed has resolved the issue of flickering. Also, when I connect through Pioneer A/V receiver and turn the Video Conversion Off, it seems to have resolved the issue. However, by doing these, the video quality suffers.


The earlier Optoma HD20 was working smoothly with this set up which recently after nearly 2600 hrs on that has had issue with color wheel and I decided to upgrade to Epson.


Any suggestion? I am thinking of buying a HDMI Equalizer Extender Repeater (3.4Gbps) from monoprice. Will that help resolving the issue? Or any other suggestion would help.


----------



## imserious




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nimbus2012* /forum/post/21890742
> 
> 
> Used flat black on ceiling and a darker beige color on walls but seems like the light reflects big time onto the first 3 feet of ceiling and walls coming off the screen. Keep seeing pics posted of completely dark rooms with just the picture from projector but no reflections...



Another thing to consider is how close the screen is to the ceiling, floor and walls. If it is close to a black ceiling or floor, it will still reflect. Doing your best to put some distance between the adjacent walls will help a lot.


----------



## Tom Ace

Well I got my 5th 8350 in 14 months yesterday. I forgot to count my 3rd one in an earlier post, wow so many I can't even remember, it (refurb) had a screw broken off in one of the mounting holes so I couldn't even mount it. Don't they check these in and out before shipping?? Anyway, I had it replaced with a BRAND NEW one that developed a big blue dot in the center of the image (that won't go away) after only 70 hours on bulb, called them and they said they'd send a replacement even though I wanted to try and troubleshoot it or possibly just get a new bulb. They're quick to just replace the whole thing. So the 5th, another refurb, doesn't work at all, blue screen with auto iris error, contact epson message. I tried the usual, power off, unplug yada yada yada, says same thing every time. Man I am tired of this sh**. How is this possible??? When this thing works, it's great and for the price, probably can't be beat but WTF, do I just have bad luck or what. Out of the 5 I've had, I never got past 480 hours on a bulb before a problem. It's pretty bad when their customer service is ten times better than their product. Now I have been referred to the next level of customer service, management I guess. I am waiting for their call and what they can do for me, this should be quite interesting. I'm sure they won't refund my $ but if they do I will take it and run!


Ha, they just called and said they can only offer a BRAND NEW replacement, no upgrades or refunds. So as you can probably guess, I will be receiving my 6th one on Friday!!!! Exciting right!, not really. Come Feb 2013, I'll be done with Epson, that is unless this one actually lasts longer than 10 months. Not getting my hopes up.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21895152
> 
> 
> Well I got my 5th 8350 in 14 months yesterday. I forgot to count my 3rd one in an earlier post, wow so many I can't even remember, it (refurb) had a screw broken off in one of the mounting holes so I couldn't even mount it. Don't they check these in and out before shipping?? Anyway, I had it replaced with a BRAND NEW one that developed a big blue dot in the center of the image (that won't go away) after only 70 hours on bulb, called them and they said they'd send a replacement even though I wanted to try and troubleshoot it or possibly just get a new bulb. They're quick to just replace the whole thing. So the 5th, another refurb, doesn't work at all, blue screen with auto iris error, contact epson message. I tried the usual, power off, unplug yada yada yada, says same thing every time. Man I am tired of this sh**. How is this possible??? When this thing works, it's great and for the price, probably can't be beat but WTF, do I just have bad luck or what. Out of the 5 I've had, I never got past 480 hours on a bulb before a problem. It's pretty bad when their customer service is ten times better than their product. Now I have been referred to the next level of customer service, management I guess. I am waiting for their call and what they can do for me, this should be quite interesting. I'm sure they won't refund my $ but if they do I will take it and run!
> 
> 
> Ha, they just called and said they can only offer a BRAND NEW replacement, no upgrades or refunds. So as you can probably guess, I will be receiving my 6th one on Friday!!!! Exciting right!, not really. Come Feb 2013, I'll be done with Epson, that is unless this one actually lasts longer than 10 months. Not getting my hopes up.



sounds like you've had some bad luck with your 8350s


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *atl999* /forum/post/21893338
> 
> 
> I have HTPC ( with ATI Radeon HD 5700 Series video Card) connected to Epson 8350 via Pioneer VSX-1120 A/V Receiver. The HDMI cable is concealed and runs approximately 30ft. There is a lot of flickering issue due to signal loss. I called support and they recommended to connect PJ directly to my HTPC. That indeed has resolved the issue of flickering. Also, when I connect through Pioneer A/V receiver and turn the Video Conversion Off, it seems to have resolved the issue. However, by doing these, the video quality suffers.
> 
> 
> The earlier Optoma HD20 was working smoothly with this set up which recently after nearly 2600 hrs on that has had issue with color wheel and I decided to upgrade to Epson.
> 
> 
> Any suggestion? I am thinking of buying a HDMI Equalizer Extender Repeater (3.4Gbps) from monoprice. Will that help resolving the issue? Or any other suggestion would help.



I'd try something simpler. Like a different HDMI cord perhaps. I have a 40ft one I am not using if interested. I have 35ft one from the same company that has not given me an issue, but I've only used it for a few hours so far and it's perfect.


----------



## tommyv2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21895152
> 
> 
> 
> Ha, they just called and said they can only offer a BRAND NEW replacement, no upgrades or refunds. So as you can probably guess, I will be receiving my 6th one on Friday!!!! Exciting right!, not really. Come Feb 2013, I'll be done with Epson, that is unless this one actually lasts longer than 10 months. Not getting my hopes up.



Preach it, brother! I had a similar experience and left the Epson camp. The weird part is, people on here think you're crazy when you're only cursed.


----------



## jsil

Got my first dust blob yesterday. I've had about 3 LCD FP before and never had a dust blob problem. This is not good are the filters in the Epson good at catching dust.


----------



## ItsJustDoug

Finally pulled the trigger on the 8350...Have the home theater set up...5.1 all locked and loaded. Final piece of the puzzle was the projector, but I had to wait until the price came down a little...Found it a week ago for 1049 @ Electronics expo and then had my locl Best Buy match it...Will be ceiling mounted by the end of the evening.


I'll take some pics of my setup once done. I just hope that I get a good one out of the box, I don't have time to be shipping these back constantly.


----------



## allbaugh_04

I have had mine hooked up for a week, no issues here. Good luck.


----------



## TehNam

Ok, I've had mine up since the beginning of Feb and now have 258 hours on it. Did the Disney WOW calibration and it looks great. No problems what so ever, convergence is good and no dust blobs. 120" Elite sable with a seating and throw distance of 14' and picture is as clear and bright as I expected. Over all a great combination for about $1500 total. With all of the horror stories I have been reading lately, it looks like I got pretty lucky.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TehNam* /forum/post/21917980
> 
> 
> Ok, I've had mine up since the beginning of Feb and now have 258 hours on it. Did the Disney WOW calibration and it looks great. No problems what so ever, convergence is good and no dust blobs. 120" Elite sable with a seating and throw distance of 14' and picture is as clear and bright as I expected. Over all a great combination for about $1500 total. With all of the horror stories I have been reading lately, it looks like I got pretty lucky.



Hi,


had a question on your Elite Sable... I just got the 106 inch.

on areas of the screen with white background I get some hot spots.

I think its the reflection of the white light from the lens?


do you have this issue as well?


I see it with things like hockey.

If i change my seating position the hot/bright spots move with me...


thoughts?


----------



## ItsJustDoug

Of course, I get everything hooked up an grab the camera to take some pics and the battery was dead...So photos will have to wait...but...


Right out of the gate without calibrating, it looks awesome. No convergence that I can see and if I can't see it that's all that matters. Watched about 20m of Ghost Protocol.


Next up, calibration...This should to be fun.


----------



## coderguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommyv2* /forum/post/21899487
> 
> 
> Preach it, brother! I had a similar experience and left the Epson camp. The weird part is, people on here think you're crazy when you're only cursed.



I've been in the forum for many years following all the threads, and Epson RMA's can be a real pain, but it can happen to any company. These stories are by no means rare, many people in here have RMa'd and had to do it 2-4 times, some 5+. The saving grace is eventually Epson will pony up and often just give you a new unit, but just hope that new unit also does not have an issue or you start all over again.


In my experience, the PJ's they send out as replacements often (not always) have poor convergence or something else wrong. That is another reason I have become more of a fan of DLP over the years at this price range. People think I am favoring DLP too much, and LCD can be good when you get a working unit, but DLP is easier to deal with except for the placement flexibility and RBE (if you are sensitive). Plus with DLP you almost never get a dust blob (it actually can happen, but it's 100x rarer), and most DLP's (the good ones anyhow) generally have consistent focus uniformity to some degree, as well as they often have better color uniformity (not all though, depends on the brand).


LCD has better blacks in the price range you get it at though.


----------



## TehNam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward* /forum/post/21918471
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> had a question on your Elite Sable... I just got the 106 inch.
> 
> on areas of the screen with white background I get some hot spots.
> 
> I think its the reflection of the white light from the lens?
> 
> 
> do you have this issue as well?
> 
> 
> I see it with things like hockey.
> 
> If i change my seating position the hot/bright spots move with me...
> 
> 
> thoughts?



I see the same thing but was thinking that maybe a 14' throw was a little close for 120". Have been considering moving it back a little but it is not a big enough issue to deal with right away, and like you say it is only noticeable in bright scenes.


----------



## deon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace* /forum/post/21895152
> 
> 
> Well I got my 5th 8350 in 14 months yesterday. I forgot to count my 3rd one in an earlier post, wow so many I can't even remember, it (refurb) had a screw broken off in one of the mounting holes so I couldn't even mount it. Don't they check these in and out before shipping?? Anyway, I had it replaced with a BRAND NEW one that developed a big blue dot in the center of the image (that won't go away) after only 70 hours on bulb, called them and they said they'd send a replacement even though I wanted to try and troubleshoot it or possibly just get a new bulb. They're quick to just replace the whole thing. So the 5th, another refurb, doesn't work at all, blue screen with auto iris error, contact epson message. I tried the usual, power off, unplug yada yada yada, says same thing every time. Man I am tired of this sh**. How is this possible??? When this thing works, it's great and for the price, probably can't be beat but WTF, do I just have bad luck or what. Out of the 5 I've had, I never got past 480 hours on a bulb before a problem. It's pretty bad when their customer service is ten times better than their product. Now I have been referred to the next level of customer service, management I guess. I am waiting for their call and what they can do for me, this should be quite interesting. I'm sure they won't refund my $ but if they do I will take it and run!
> 
> 
> Ha, they just called and said they can only offer a BRAND NEW replacement, no upgrades or refunds. So as you can probably guess, I will be receiving my 6th one on Friday!!!! Exciting right!, not really. Come Feb 2013, I'll be done with Epson, that is unless this one actually lasts longer than 10 months. Not getting my hopes up.



I'm now on number 4 - no end in sight. I'm just sad I didn't buy the panny


----------



## sschantz

Hi Folks,


Can't believe how large ths thread is, still going thru it.


I am looking at pulling the trigger at Best Buy so I can get the3 yrs no interest financing.


Is the extended warranty thru BB worth it?


Have a great weekend!


----------



## blindmnkee3

I think the BB policy is a good deal, I think it was $250 or so for 4 years and it includes bulb replacement. So in 3 years when Epson warranty is up and the $280 dollar lamp goes out, I will get my money back. And with BB, in my experience with other products, in 3 years they will be carrying Epsons new 1080p projector so it highly likely they'll offer to just give me the new version. For me it made sense, might not for everyone here.


----------



## joeags




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm now on number 4 - no end in sight. I'm just sad I didn't buy the panny



Out of curiosity, when you guys who are having gone through multiple machines get a brand new one, why don't you just sell it on ebay or something? Especially if you want something else. You'll lose a bit of money, but can move on.


I just hit the one year mark, and have suffered no problems at all (yet). (knock knock) I'm definitely enjoying it as much as I had hoped!


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz* /forum/post/21929460
> 
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> Can't believe how large ths thread is, still going thru it.
> 
> 
> I am looking at pulling the trigger at Best Buy so I can get the3 yrs no interest financing.
> 
> 
> Is the extended warranty thru BB worth it?
> 
> 
> Have a great weekend!



Best to use a credit card that adds a year to warranty.


----------



## deon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags* /forum/post/21930524
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, when you guys who are having gone through multiple machines get a brand new one, why don't you just sell it on ebay or something? Especially if you want something else. You'll lose a bit of money, but can move on.
> 
> 
> I just hit the one year mark, and have suffered no problems at all (yet). (knock knock) I'm definitely enjoying it as much as I had hoped!



It's the price that keeps me in the EPSON camp. The picture quality for the price just can't be beat. If it happens again eBay sounds like a good option.


When you've taken down, packaged and gone through all the bull I've gone through it's amazing I'm still on board.


----------



## PeterDoubt

I've developed a dust blob and have searched the forum and found a lot of discussion and promises of detailed instructions for cleaning, but have yet to find any. Is the only solution to either live with it or return (if possible)?

I've spent all evening here and elsewhere and come close, so I'm sorry if someone has posted the definitive answer...I just haven't found it.

Thanks, everyone.


----------



## kev6873

Does anyone have any recommendations for a screen..about 100" that goes well with the 8350?


----------



## allbaugh_04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kev6873* /forum/post/21961067
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations for a screen..about 100" that goes well with the 8350?



Yep, take some drywall and paint it white.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kev6873* /forum/post/21961067
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations for a screen..about 100" that goes well with the 8350?



Tell us about your room (size/colors) , PJ mounting location, viewing habits, and lighting levels.


If you match your needs and requirements to the 8350's qualities, you'll get the best balance of performance to cost possible.


The "obvious" choice once such info is provided might indeed be something as simple and a bright white Flat painted wall. Or not. Gotta have more input.


I'll lead with this.....among the 18+ 8350s I've dealt with in a raft of different situations, the variables are quite wide.


----------



## sschantz

off beat topic...


How is electricity/energy consumption compared to say RPG's and others?


----------



## kev6873

Thanks MM.


I have attached some pictures to show you the room. The room itself is large but will be broken down into 2 sep areas...rec/bar area and the TV viewing area. The TV viewing area will have beige carpet, white ceiling and not sure about the walls yet. Open for suggestions on paint type and color, but it has to get past the wife too. There is a window behind the seating area that will have black out shade or something to block the light. Other than that, will have dimmers on the can lights.


The viewing will be for movies and sports mainly, no gaming really.


PJ will be mounted on ceiling (here is my other thread on issues with mount - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1407833 ). Thinking will be about 110" AT screen.

http://s1207.photobucket.com/albums/...rent=Plan3.mp4 

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...873/design.jpg 

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ricalImage.jpg


----------



## drewster98

I've finally taken the plunge and decided on a 8350 projector for my man cave. After doing a little research on mounts I decided to go with the Chief RPA mount. Here's where my question lies. I will be ceiling mounting the pj and was wondering if I need to buy anything besides the Chief mount to accomplish this. I won't be using an extension pole, I just want it flush against the ceiling. The instructions I read online talk about needing a SLB bracket to attach the RPA to my pj. What is this bracket and do I really need to buy something else just to attach the Chief mount to my 8350?


----------



## drewster98

Nevermind, read on their website that the SLB bracket is included with the RPA mount already. Will I need to purchase screws/bolts/etc to attach the mount to the ceiling or is it included already?


----------



## Tom Ace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deon* /forum/post/21929436
> 
> 
> I'm now on number 4 - no end in sight. I'm just sad I didn't buy the panny



Yep, next one will be a panny for me. 6th 8350 making it so far, we'll see...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drewster98* /forum/post/21962330
> 
> 
> Nevermind, read on their website that the SLB bracket is included with the RPA mount already. Will I need to purchase screws/bolts/etc to attach the mount to the ceiling or is it included already?



If you stop at just the RPA-168 mount assembly, you would need some additional Hardware.


But most everyone needs / gets a ceiling Plate such as the Peerless ACC570
http://www.google.com/search?q=peerl...ient=firefox-a 

Price can really vary, but Projector People can order both as a set and the price for the ACC570 is under $20.00 with them.

(ask for Kirk @ ext 2002 ...he knows all about it and honors AVS referrals.)


And BTW...it does come with all necessary Bolt hardware, and it's 1.5 NPT Threaded Opening is a match for the same on the RPA Mount, so you need only make the union between the RPA and the ACC570 using either a specific length Threaded Steel Nipple, or a "cut to size" PVC pipe w/Male Couplings at each end.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kev6873* /forum/post/21961976
> 
> 
> Thanks MM.
> 
> 
> I have attached some pictures to show you the room. The room itself is large but will be broken down into 2 sep areas...rec/bar area and the TV viewing area. The TV viewing area will have beige carpet, white ceiling and not sure about the walls yet. Open for suggestions on paint type and color, but it has to get past the wife too. There is a window behind the seating area that will have black out shade or something to block the light. Other than that, will have dimmers on the can lights.
> 
> 
> The viewing will be for movies and sports mainly, no gaming really.
> 
> 
> PJ will be mounted on ceiling (here is my other thread on issues with mount - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1407833 ). Thinking will be about 110" AT screen.



Gotta condense the Thread locations. Go here and post a Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...ysprune=&f=110 


Nothing you've posted about is an intractable or difficult "do"...you simply have to make good choices and do it right the first time.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Just ordered an 8350 today. Hopefully I get a good one, not interested in playing projector roulette with Epson.


----------



## pacemaker

advice please


awhile back i had the light level flicker problem which u resolved by running it in 'normal' mode instead of 'eco' as read on here. but the problem has returned.

should i try and fix it again or comtact epson for a new bulb under warranty?

the machine is a year old with 950 hours


thanks


----------



## PeterDoubt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterDoubt* /forum/post/21956697
> 
> 
> I've developed a dust blob and have searched the forum and found a lot of discussion and promises of detailed instructions for cleaning, but have yet to find any. Is the only solution to either live with it or return (if possible)?
> 
> I've spent all evening here and elsewhere and come close, so I'm sorry if someone has posted the definitive answer...I just haven't found it.
> 
> Thanks, everyone.



Just thought I'd try this again. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks


----------



## joeags

I think that I've seen every post in this thread, and I don't remember a single self-fix to this issue. Warranty return is the only recommendation I remember...


Sorry!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterDoubt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd try this again. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> 
> Thanks


----------



## PeterDoubt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags* /forum/post/21965775
> 
> 
> I think that I've seen every post in this thread, and I don't remember a single self-fix to this issue. Warranty return is the only recommendation I remember...
> 
> 
> Sorry!



Yeah, I did find this - I can't remember who posted it:

1. Green dust blob showed up in lower left corner of my screen -was a bit worried about this since its been a known problem on this thread with other 8350 users. Opened up the lamp area using a screwdriver (pops open really easily I couldn't find the official tool but any flat head works fine). Took the lamp out and blew all over the place with compressed air where the lamp sits including the lamp itself. Put lamp back into projector and woila no green dust blob. Probably my first recommendation for those having dust blob issues, before you send in the projector. (also clean the filter out periodically)


And smurf01501 mentioned this:

I will be taking this sucker apart, and I will be putting together a pictorial of my findings for all.


I probably should message him and see what happened. I called Epson and they were more than willing to replace it, but identified as an HDMI board connection problem. I was talking to them in the afternoon and had trouble recreating the problem, so I got a case no. And watched over the w/e and it was there, even in the dark scenes of Game of Thrones. I've got a lot going on and don't know what would be more hassle - trying to clean it or returning and recalibrating the new one (or both, if cleaning isn't a solution).


Thanks


----------



## khalid7412002

So I have a particular issue that I would be interested to know if anyone else has had a similar issue. Recently I had a projector replaced because of dust blobs and getting the auto iris error very frequently so I called epson and they sent me a refurbished unit. I hook it up and it looks and works great. i have used it for about 100 hours now, and today my significant other fell asleep while watching MTV online through the HTPC. I get home and as I start browsing my movies via media browser, I notice a faint outline of something. So i pull up various solid colors and sure enough, the faint outline is that of the MTV page. Now I know it is nearly impossibly for LCD to get burn-in, I didn't think it would happen with only a few hours of a static imagine on the screen.


Has anyone else had a case where watching a static image has caused burn in and if so, after have many hours of that same image being on the screen did it burn in?


I'll post pictures later tonight


----------



## radi4fun

Hey guys







I just bought a new 8350 and hooked it up 1st time last night and man this is awesome. This is my 1st projector and i'm loving it every single moment. I had a few Noob questions regarding the projector. This projector dose not have any speakers so I was wondering is it possible to hook up 2.1 computer speakers to this projector? i have a really good Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 Computer Speakers and i was hoping to use them wit the PJ. last night i watched a movie via laptop and had to hook up the speaks to the laptop for sound. I wanted to hook up my Time Warner Cable box to the projector and the projector nor the cable box have a place where i can plug the speakers into. can you guys give me advice on what is the cheapest way to try and get sound out of this? I also have PS3 hooked up to it and of course no audio out on that as well.


I was thinking of buying a cheap 5.1 home theater system maybe in the future when i have more $$$ but for now, i can't watch regular TV on the projector due to no sound, have to use the old TV for that


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radi4fun* /forum/post/21969295
> 
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought a new 8350 and hooked it up 1st time last night and man this is awesome. This is my 1st projector and i'm loving it every single moment. I had a few Noob questions regarding the projector. This projector dose not have any speakers so I was wondering is it possible to hook up 2.1 computer speakers to this projector? i have a really good Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 Computer Speakers and i was hoping to use them wit the PJ. last night i watched a movie via laptop and had to hook up the speaks to the laptop for sound. I wanted to hook up my Time Warner Cable box to the projector and the projector nor the cable box have a place where i can plug the speakers into. can you guys give me advice on what is the cheapest way to try and get sound out of this? I also have PS3 hooked up to it and of course no audio out on that as well.
> 
> 
> I was thinking of buying a cheap 5.1 home theater system maybe in the future when i have more $$$ but for now, i can't watch regular TV on the projector due to no sound, have to use the old TV for that



The 8350 does not handle audio. You need to use an external source to handle audio (ie: audio receiver, laptop, etc.)


----------



## slennon

Well add me to the list of those with the auto iris error problems. Projector is going back to epson this week. It will be replaced with a refurb. Here's hoping its a good one.


----------



## mike734

I've had mine for about a year now and am happy with everything except the focus. I've haven't seen this addressed yet. It seems I have to refocus at least once every viewing session. It is in a tight enclosure but it's ventilated by a 6" fan that comes on automatically. After about 30 minutes or so I can usually improve the picture by refocusing ever so slightly. It's very annoying and if I ever buy another projector I'll search for one with auto-focus.


----------



## thatgameguy

How are folks getting local channels over rabbit ears with this one? I have one but it is only used for movies and gaming.


----------



## pacemaker

can anyone update me on the 'flicker' issue in 'eco'?

after the initial fix by running in 'normal' mode for awhile it has returned and i have requested an engineer to visit


was this fault found to be down to the bulb or machine?


i don't know whether to try another temp fix or push for a new bulb/machine


thanks


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thatgameguy* /forum/post/21973387
> 
> 
> How are folks getting local channels over rabbit ears with this one? I have one but it is only used for movies and gaming.



I use the ATSC TV-Tuner card in my XBMC-HTPC.


However, since I have TW cable ... it's only for emergencies (2012 end of world, etc.).

















If you don't have a PC connected, I think an external ATSC tuner would be your next option. I have seen some with HDMI/DVI connections.


I think it's amazing what (quality of signal) you can get over the air these days. Of course, channel selection is limited though.


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well add me to the list of those with the auto iris error problems. Projector is going back to epson this week. It will be replaced with a refurb. Here's hoping its a good one.



Update. Got my replacement and the convergence is horrible. I don't mean 2 pixels no the colors are out by 3 inches!!! On the phone with Epson now


----------



## slennon

Hopefully you can see the attached pic of my problem


----------



## lespurgeon

Wow, I think you got the new 3D model that should come with the old red/blue glasses.


----------



## joelq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/21977521
> 
> 
> Hopefully you can see the attached pic of my problem



The looks pretty bad. Seriously, do these folks not at least plug the thing in for a quick once over before calling them fixed and sending them back out as refurbs? Makes me feel like I picked the wrong horse by going with the Epson!


----------



## slennon

No I dont think they do. In fact the Epson rep put a note asking them to check the pic on replacement number two before it goes out.


----------



## pacemaker

Anybody tried these settings compared to Art's

http://www.hometheater.com/content/e...ector-settings 


also


had my unit swapped today due to the flivker problem. rep said unlickly to be bulb as prob only in eco mode


----------



## Grayson73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/21972261
> 
> 
> I've had mine for about a year now and am happy with everything except the focus. I've haven't seen this addressed yet. It seems I have to refocus at least once every viewing session. It is in a tight enclosure but it's ventilated by a 6" fan that comes on automatically. After about 30 minutes or so I can usually improve the picture by refocusing ever so slightly. It's very annoying and if I ever buy another projector I'll search for one with auto-focus.



What projectors have auto-focus?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Received my 8350, waiting for a new ceiling mount to arrive (Peerless PRG-UNV) but set up the projector on a table in front of the screen just to check it and I have these observations:


1) Like many have said, this projector is much larger than expected, 3x larger than my HC1500.


2) The lens shift is different than I expected, one wheel adjusts horizontally, the other wheels seems to shift the lens on an angle or if you move the wheel back and fourth it kinda moves up and down. The wheels just seem so cheap feeling that it's like I'm going to break something inside the projector.


Answer me this, how does the lens shift work? Are you shifting the lens relative to the chip, turning a mirror? Is there any picture degradation when using the lens shift?


3) The projector is very quiet (one of the reasons I bought this over the HC4000), my A/C vent is now the loudest thing in the room.


4) I didn't hook up a source yet but just going into the MENU and putting up the test pattern I don't see any convergence issues. My temporary setup on the table is too close to the screen to fill the screen with an image but so far so good.


----------



## MississippiMan

using the lens shift, the lens itself is the only thing that moves.


I've installed a great many 8350s, and never has the shift wheels given anyone a problem.


However, when extremely loud bass is played, and with a ceiling mount, the ceiling was often able to vibrate, so some people have experienced having the lens drop a small percentage. This can be avoided by using the Len's small foam packing ring trimmed to the appropriate size, and placed between the PJ housing housing and the lens.


Try to place the projector as centered on the screen side to side, and with the Len's top edge being as close as possible to the top edge of the screen. Reducing the amount of lens shift required either way is always best..


With a 8350 you would only notice a bit of damage degradation at the end of the lens shift parameters.


----------



## allbaugh_04

I've noticed the bass can make the projector shake a bit as well, but maybe you're right, maybe it's just the lens.


That's my only gripe.


Can't believe all the negatives put out there over this projector. Just sit down and watch a movie already...it looks amazing.


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grayson73* /forum/post/21982623
> 
> 
> What projectors have auto-focus?



I wondered if someone would ask that. I never researched it but I assumed some do. If not, I'll just have to live with re-focus. Doesn't anyone else have this problem?


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/21983307
> 
> 
> Received my 8350, waiting for a new ceiling mount to arrive (Peerless PRG-UNV) but set up the projector on a table in front of the screen just to check it and I have these observations:
> 
> 
> 1) Like many have said, this projector is much larger than expected, 3x larger than my HC1500.
> 
> 
> 2) The lens shift is different than I expected, one wheel adjusts horizontally, the other wheels seems to shift the lens on an angle or if you move the wheel back and fourth it kinda moves up and down. The wheels just seem so cheap feeling that it's like I'm going to break something inside the projector.
> 
> 
> Answer me this, how does the lens shift work? Are you shifting the lens relative to the chip, turning a mirror? Is there any picture degradation when using the lens shift?
> 
> 
> 3) The projector is very quiet (one of the reasons I bought this over the HC4000), my A/C vent is now the loudest thing in the room.
> 
> 
> 4) I didn't hook up a source yet but just going into the MENU and putting up the test pattern I don't see any convergence issues. My temporary setup on the table is too close to the screen to fill the screen with an image but so far so good.



HTPC_Dude, I just received my 8350 on Tuesday. I got a refurb from Projector People. I have many of the same observations as you.


With all the recent negative posts (well deserved) I was more than a little worried about the quality of the projector I would be getting. I temporarily set up the projector in the living room. Once it got darker outside I projected onto one of the only blank walls in the house. The wall limited me to a size of roughly 72" wide. These are my initial impressions:


- I immediately checked for convergence issues. I used the built in pattern that the projector has. The convergence looks nearly perfect until I get to the line at the far right side of the pattern. Here I can see very, very slight miss-convergence. Nothing I am at all concerned about. I can't see any other problems, no dust blobs, nothing. I feel I got a great unit.










- This is my first projector and I now fully understand how nice it is to have lens shift. My temporary position was quite a bit out of whack, but with lens shift, I got the picture right where I needed it. Very easy to do!


- The wall is painted a darker tan, so it's not ideal at all. But WOW! Unbelievable picture even right out of the box. Already, this thing looks like a giant LCD TV hanging on the wall!


- While viewing, I'm sitting on a chair right next to the projector. In eco/cinema mode, the projector is nearly silent. It gets slightly noisier at each step up in brightness. In dynamic mode (or holy sh$t is this thing bright mode), which I will never use, it makes about the same amount of noise as my PS3 slim. While in cinema mode, with the iris on, I can hear the iris operating and it does sound like a computer hard drive. It's fairly quiet and I don't think I will be able to hear it when the projector is mounted on the ceiling in it's final position.


- I spent the next couple hours glued to the image on the wall. I was reluctant to take it down the next day, but I now have a lot of work ahead of me to convert my theater from 65" RPTV to projection.


Thanks to many people for all the informative posts made in this thread and others. Particularly MississippiMan, Coderguy, and others who tirelessly share their wealth of knowledge!!!! I spent the last few months scouring threads about the Epson 3010, Optoma HD33, Benq 6000, Mitsubishi 4000, and a couple others. In the end I think I made the right decision (for me) going with the 8350. Thanks!


Now the work begins. I will be building my own 110" 16x9 screen using the acoustically transparent Seymour Center Stage XD material. My buddy just got a screen from them and it's just amazing to see the great projection and the great sound coming from the same plane as the main speakers. I never posted pictures before of my theater, but I'll have to post some before & after photos once everything is done. I can't wait to get there and post my final impressions.


----------



## lee1741

So, I bought an 8350 new on ebay. I'm projecting it at about 16' to a Favi electric 120" screen. I have to say that upon hooking it up and watching Avatar (and later Troy) Blu-Ray, the image quality was pretty disappointing. It just didn't seem as sharp as I expected it to be, no matter how much I adjusted the focus knob. It is ceiling mounted about 4-5" from the ceiling and it projects on the wall the the top of the image being even with the position of the projector. Could the lens shift that I'm using be the cause of the "softness" of the picture?


When I get home tonight, I'm going to lower the screen and check the pattern that is included with the projector to see if there's a convergence problem. I also want to use other patterns but I'm not sure how how to project them onto the screen. Am I supposed to copy the images of the test patterns and "text screens" to a DVD and project them that way?


Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


Also, since I bought the projector from ebay, am I pretty much screwed when it comes to getting any type of support from epson?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Lee, I can't answer any of your other questions, except possibly your focus softness could be due to the 16' throw, I would expect that as you move away from the screen the sharpness may decrease slightly.


As for you warranty and support, I would think Epson would provide support regardless of where you purchased the unit as long as you have a valid serial number.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lee1741* /forum/post/21984148
> 
> 
> Am I supposed to copy the images of the test patterns and "text screens" to a DVD and project them that way?



Assuming you have a DVD burner on your computer download the *AVS HD 709* file and burn it to DVD. It's free and a very useful calibration disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496


----------



## HTPC_Dude

On another note, I just got through doing the trig calculations to see if my ceiling fan will be in the way of the projected image hitting the screen and I can say after double checking my numbers that I should have about 0.75" of clearance.


This is coming from the Mits HC1500 that is on an inexpensive ceiling mount which puts the lens 11" from the ceiling to the Peerless mount that puts the Epson only 7.8" from the ceiling. Luckily I had about 4.5" to spare when I measured the distance between the HC1500 light beam and fan blade. The math would seem simple but I also needed to compensate for the EPSON being 3" closer to the fan, hence needing to do a little trig to check the angle of the light beam.


The good news is I don't believe I will need to purchase a ceiling plate and down rod just to clear the fan blades, saving me $55.


I purchased the 8350 new for $1080 (including shipping), I was hoping to get in on a refurb deal but it just didn't work out, so I paid an extra $180 that I didn't quite plan on. This with the new $110 mount, my projector upgrade is adding up. Saving a little on not needing the extra hardware makes me feel a little better.


----------



## lee1741




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/21984242
> 
> 
> Lee, I can't answer any of your other questions, except possibly your focus softness could be due to the 16' throw, I would expect that as you move away from the screen the sharpness may decrease slightly.
> 
> 
> As for you warranty and support, I would think Epson would provide support regardless of where you purchased the unit as long as you have a valid serial number.



Thanks for the response. What's the optimal throw distance for 120"? I didn't think it mattered just as long as you were within the range that you can zoom to fit the screen? I read the only real difference is the further away from the screen the better the contrast and the closer the brighter the image. Guess that isn't exactly true?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I would not believe the contrast is better with the projector positioned further from the screen, particularly since the brightness of the image decreases with throw distance.


If you are within Epson's recommended throw distance for your screen size, I suppose I would expect the image to be crisp. Just do a search for Epson Projector Calculator and put in your numbers. From what I see you are within the range of 11'-9" to 25'-1" so you should be fine.


You say you have a Favi electric screen, is it very flat? When I setup my dedicated HT I went with a Carada Precision series fixed screen, high contrast grey since my room is fully light controlled. The screen is stretched nearly perfectly flat across the aluminium frame. I sure hope my new Epson will be just as sharp, if not more so, than my current 720p Mits.


----------



## jvinhj240

anyone experience when playing movie and the screen pretty much delay? the motion when fast screen it won't keep up like stutter looking...THe movie file is .mvk as bluray.


I hook up HTPC to Onkyo receiver then to Epson 8350. I don't know if there is a setting to fix this issue? THanks.


----------



## liveinxs

Well it's only been about three weeks since receiving my 8350, but I just can't believe what you get for 1000.00.


This projector is INCREDIBLE.


If I said it once, I must of said 100 times to my wife, if you get this quality for a grand, I could only imagine what a "high" end unit looks like.


But I have to ask, can it get better then this, I don't see how. I am sure some will disagree, but those are only the "I spent more, so mine is better a-holes".


I have mine projecting on a Valpex 100 inch Tension Screen. These two together, make for a great combination.


I just have one question, what video source/DVD do you use as a focusing tool. I have what I think is perfect focusing, but just curious to see if there might be a better disk to use for focusing.


Thanks.


----------



## joepaiii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liveinxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well it's only been about three weeks since receiving my 8350, but I just can't believe what you get for 1000.00.
> 
> 
> This projector is INCREDIBLE.
> 
> 
> If I said it once, I must of said 100 times to my wife, if you get this quality for a grand, I could only imagine what a "high" end unit looks like.
> 
> 
> But I have to ask, can it get better then this, I don't see how. I am sure some will disagree, but those are only the "I spent more, so mine is better a-holes".
> 
> 
> I have mine projecting on a Valpex 100 inch Tension Screen. These two together, make for a great combination.
> 
> 
> I just have one question, what video source/DVD do you use as a focusing tool. I have what I think is perfect focusing, but just curious to see if there might be a better disk to use for focusing.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yes it can get better. Better sharpness, black levels, color accuracy, motion handling, and 3d. That said the 8350 does deliver great bang for the buck. I use Digital Video Essentials for calibration and focus tests.


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/21977497
> 
> 
> Update. Got my replacement and the convergence is horrible. I don't mean 2 pixels no the colors are out by 3 inches!!! On the phone with Epson now



Well replacement number two has gone back as well







The convergence was still way off. Not inches like before but probably 4 pixels wide. You could see a 1/4 inch purple shadow plain as day around any text from about 8 feet away. This is after Epson promised they would check it before sending it out. I know we can keep going with replacments till i get a good one but in reality I find it a pain. I wish I had gone with something else. Rant over


----------



## carp

Still haven't seen any users with over 1000 hours. Maybe there are some and I've missed it, but it looks like most of us have had to get a replacement unit before that. Currently I'm on 224 hours on my 2nd unit (3rd really, the first replacement had problems too) and all is well. My first projector was fine until around 350 hours, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## mike734

Still wondering if everyone has to re-focus every time they use the projector. I have to and it bothers me but I am generally happy with the great picture.


----------



## liveinxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still wondering if everyone has to re-focus every time they use the projector. I have to and it bothers me but I am generally happy with the great picture.



No I have been using mine for about a month now, and have only focused once. Is your projector mounted securely, there could be movement of the projector, which would cause the refocusing problem you are having.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/21992131
> 
> 
> Still wondering if everyone has to re-focus every time they use the projector. I have to and it bothers me but I am generally happy with the great picture.



Have you tired wedging that yellow foam that came with the projector in there so that the ring doesn't move, or are you saying it goes out of focus without the ring moving?


----------



## shelly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/21992131
> 
> 
> Still wondering if everyone has to re-focus every time they use the projector. I have to and it bothers me but I am generally happy with the great picture.




Mine sits on a shelf near the ceiling and has been in focus from day one, even with 3 subwoofers working.


Shelly


----------



## liveinxs

That's what I am thinking, this guy probably doesn't have it mounted right.


After all it is a manual focus, so there's no way it could go out of focus on its own.


Either it's getting bumped , someone is messing with it, or it's not securely mounted.


End of story.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/21992131
> 
> 
> Still wondering if everyone has to re-focus every time they use the projector. I have to and it bothers me but I am generally happy with the great picture.



No, never (had mine about 1 year).


What you might need is some friction between the focus ring and the zoom ring.


I bet a 3.25" rubber VCR belt (or similar) would work nicely. The belt itself should be 1/8" to 1/4" ... round would be ideal. A nice big rubber-band might also work. Or maybe, rubber-tubing over a zip-tie, thin wire, or string. Not too tight. DO NOT use tape or anything with any glue on it.


----------



## liveinxs

They shouldn't need anything. Send it back to Epson. Why should he trouble shoot anything.


----------



## mike734

My projector is enclosed in a fairly small cabinet with a glass door. It is ventilated by a thermostatically controlled fan. There is no chance the focus ring is being moved by anyone but me and the ring is stiff enough to move that I know it is not slipping.


The only explanation I have is that as the unit heats up, it has to be refocused. I only have to do this once per viewing session. It is especially noticeable when playing games on the PS3. It's the text that makes the focus, or lack of it, noticeable.


I can't imagine any manufacture defect that is responsible for this but I guess I should call Epson and see what they say. I have 550 hours on the projector.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734* /forum/post/21994049
> 
> 
> My projector is enclosed in a fairly small cabinet with a glass door. It is ventilated by a thermostatically controlled fan. There is no chance the focus ring is being moved by anyone but me and the ring is stiff enough to move that I know it is not slipping.
> 
> 
> The only explanation I have is that as the unit heats up, it has to be refocused. I only have to do this once per viewing session. It is especially noticeable when playing games on the PS3. It's the text that makes the focus, or lack of it, noticeable.
> 
> 
> I can't imagine any manufacture defect that is responsible for this but I guess I should call Epson and see what they say. I have 550 hours on the projector.



I'd have to conclude it's getting far too hot in that cabinet and the temperature swings are causing your issues. IMHO, never a good idea to put anything that can generate this kind of heat into an enclosed space unless a lot of expensive engineering and equipment has been provided to maintain a safe and constant environment and temperatures.


----------



## buddahead

Never put a FP in a cabinet.Even with fans.You need room for it to breath.Your focus problem is due to heat I bet.


----------



## SonyCrusader

Last I checked (a few weeks ago) I was well over 2000 hours. No real problems, just the usual unit-to-unit quirks.


While the lens shift seems pretty slack, focus, once set, should be solid. The biggest thing is prior to focusing, the unit should be well-warmed... like at least an hour, to get everything thermally settled. Of course, that may mean it's not perfectly focused at subsequent start-ups... but should drift back in as it warms up!


----------



## Guspaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *midblue* /forum/post/21572663
> 
> 
> It is visible on dark scenes with white patches, such as star fields or movie credits. But maybe I'm just looking too hard for it now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure this is "normal" though? I'd believe that it's within manufacturing specifications, but "normal" seems like a stretch. Horizontal convergence is perfect, if I use a vertical white stripe pattern there is no overlap, it's only vertical convergence where there's a problem.
> 
> 
> Guspaz, if you're still around this thread, did you end up sending yours back?



Sorry, I never followed up on this.


I did take the 8345 back to Futureshop for a replacement. I could have mailed it to Epson, and probably got an 8350 back in exchange (+200 lumens, supposedly), but Epson only ships via Purolator, and their shipping depot is inconvenient to get to. Canada Post or UPS would have been nice.


Anyhow, the replacement model is improved, still not perfect but better. With this unit, the convergence issue is not visible on video content as it was on the previous un it, so it's good enough.


I bought a screen for my projector towards the end of March, a Da-Lite Theater-Lite, which is an 80" 16:9 portable unit with a 2.2 gain screen and a 45 degree viewing angle ("Wide Power" surface). It's a huge improvement over my bare wall, and even though it's not perfectly flat (it's a portable unit with only one telescoping bar behind the screen), it's good enough and the slight wave isn't noticeable on video content. Considering this thing cost me like $250 or so, I'm thrilled.


I've been living with this setup for the past few months now (only a month or so of use on the screen), for television watching, movie watching, gaming, etc. I'm very happy with it, and don't at all regret my decision to buy this setup instead of a 50+" samsung HDTV. I'm also a huge proponent of lens shift, even more so than I was before (more on that in a bit). In the future, I will not buy any projector that does not have lens shift, point finale. It's just too handy, allowing more flexibility in placement. In my case, it's on top of a bookshelf behind my couch (my apartment is ~360 sqft, my 80" screen is rather insane for a place this size, which is awesome), and this sort of setup would be completely impossible without lens shift and a decent amount of zoom.


This projector has also spoiled me. I work for a convention where I'm in charge of, among other things, projector purchases/management for panels, workshops, and video screenings. We own 22 projectors of varying ages, all but 2 being DLP office projectors (try finding a 4500 lumen home theatre projector for under a thousand bucks to drive a 180" screen), and only two of them have lens shift, and even though those two are actually rather crappy projectors, they're still precious just because of the flexibility they offer us in placement.


Another way in which the Epson has spoiled me is colour reproduction; I get great and accurate colour at home, but our convention projectors are terrible in that regard. I can't count how many meetings we've had where the art department has had to explain "No, really, that purple outfit on the mascot really looks red on my laptop!" or something similar.


----------



## RKolbi

Has anyone noticed a hue shift when the auto iris darkens the screen? When I play movies through my AppleTV3 it is really noticeable on the bottom play time display bar. Before the movie starts and the screen goes black as it loads, the time bar goes from the normal silvery bar to a red and the blue tint and gets extremely dim and dull, when the movie start playing it pretty much goes away, probably because the iris opens up. This does not happen when auto iris is off. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this…


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Received my Peerless PRG-UNV projector mount last night and finally got my new 8350 mounted to the ceiling.


My first impressions:

1) Picture is nice and bright.

2) My first LCD projector, so I'm now seeing the differences between my old DLP projector and this one. The typical DLP vs LCD debate. Not sure which I like better yet.

3) The unit is so quiet it's no longer the only thing I hear in my HT room. I don't even hear the auto-iris.

4) The Dynamic Picture mode setting is terrible with my Dish Satellite source. Makes the picture all jagged and pixelated when there is motion on the screen.

5) Lots of tweaking to do, but out of the box, Cinema mode looks best to me.


I'll post more on my upgrade experience after I have put some hours on the unit.


----------



## ncarty97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vladd* /forum/post/20552386
> 
> 
> Not yet but it's in the plans. (I'll be writing my own software to do it.)



vladd,


Did you every do this?


----------



## c3k

You guys are killing me! My 8350 has been sitting in its box since February, waiting for me to finish the basement. I'm drooling...and keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21999302
> 
> 
> You guys are killing me! My 8350 has been sitting in its box since February, waiting for me to finish the basement. I'm drooling...and keeping my fingers crossed.



I will post some pictures of my setup, that should help get your basement finished a little sooner.


----------



## rakstr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c3k* /forum/post/21999302
> 
> 
> You guys are killing me! My 8350 has been sitting in its box since February, waiting for me to finish the basement. I'm drooling...and keeping my fingers crossed.



I'd suggest you at least set it up and test it out, even if it's on a wall. IF something is wrong, you will be able to get a new replacement, but only in the first few months. Then you're in the refurb cycle. Just my two cents!


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well replacement number two has gone back as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The convergence was still way off. Not inches like before but probably 4 pixels wide. You could see a 1/4 inch purple shadow plain as day around any text from about 8 feet away. This is after Epson promised they would check it before sending it out. I know we can keep going with replacments till i get a good one but in reality I find it a pain. I wish I had gone with something else. Rant over



Replacement number three arrived tonight. I think it is brand new. Doesn't matter though. This one is DOA!!!! Tried to fire it up and the temp light flashed red. Manual says faulty fan or faulty sensor. Ie send it back.


I am thinking of asking for a better model. Maybe refurb 8700?? And paying the difference. Anyone have any luck with something like this or any luck with getting money back???


----------



## drewster98

Just set up my 8350 the other day and I'm still playing with the settings. I have mine installed in my basement where I can get the lighting levels next to nothing. Without having to look through 237 pages of info, can somebody recommend some calibration settings for viewing movies and for playing xbox games in virtual darkness?


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/22000089
> 
> 
> Replacement number three arrived tonight. I think it is brand new. Doesn't matter though. This one is DOA!!!! Tried to fire it up and the temp light flashed red. Manual says faulty fan or faulty sensor. Ie send it back.
> 
> 
> I am thinking of asking for a better model. Maybe refurb 8700?? And paying the difference. Anyone have any luck with something like this or any luck with getting money back???




Sorry to hear you are going on replacement number 4, do you think maybe units are getting damaged in shipping?


Put a few hours on mine last night, picture looked good, no convergence issues that I can see, and I'm loving how quiet the unit is.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/22000089
> 
> 
> Replacement number three arrived tonight. I think it is brand new. Doesn't matter though. This one is DOA!!!! Tried to fire it up and the temp light flashed red. Manual says faulty fan or faulty sensor. Ie send it back.
> 
> 
> I am thinking of asking for a better model. Maybe refurb 8700?? And paying the difference. Anyone have any luck with something like this or any luck with getting money back???



Sorry about the bad luck.







Unfortunately, getting a replacement projector should not come down to luck of the draw. It sounds like you have done everything you can do going through normal channels. Not sure what you need to do but it's definitely time to take it to the highest level. Best of "luck"!


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/22000089
> 
> 
> Replacement number three arrived tonight. I think it is brand new. Doesn't matter though. This one is DOA!!!! Tried to fire it up and the temp light flashed red. Manual says faulty fan or faulty sensor. Ie send it back.



Any chance it was cold from delivery on the truck when you fired it up or that you're connecting it to a cheap surge protector? I think I had this problem when I first fired mine up, but after a while, I tried again, plugging it directly into the wall outlet, and it started up fine. Haven't had the blinking light happen again since that first time.


----------



## PurolatorHelp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Guspaz* /forum/post/21995794
> 
> 
> I did take the 8345 back to Futureshop for a replacement. I could have mailed it to Epson, and probably got an 8350 back in exchange (+200 lumens, supposedly), but Epson only ships via Purolator, and their shipping depot is inconvenient to get to. Canada Post or UPS would have been nice.



Hi Guspaz,


Sorry to hear that our depot is not easily convenient in your area. If you are expecting another shipment, please feel free to contact me and I can verify if there are any Authorized Retail Agents or closer Retail Counters where the package could be transferred to.


If you have any other questions or comments, please donÂ't hesitate to contact me.


Best regards,


JÃ©rÃ©mie

Social Media Coordinator / Customer Care Team

Coordonateur - MÃ©dias Sociaux / Ãquipe d'Assistance Ã* la ClientÃ¨le


Purolator Inc.

E-mail / Courriel: [email protected] ou/or [email protected]


----------



## Cookiesowns

Hm,


Has anyone noticed some convergence issue on the 8350? We got an open box set from BestBuy, and noticed some horrible convergence. Decided to step up to a 3010 once the $100 rebate is back.


----------



## ItsJustDoug

Ok...Hit 10 hrs...No trouble with mine so far...Was noticing a slight flicker, but it turns out my receiver has a handshake issue (arghh, Onkyo) and when I go from projector to blu-ray player all is well.


Just had a baby so I still haven't taken time to calibrate it fully, but out of the box it's better than anything I already have in the house and above 3X the size...


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cookiesowns* /forum/post/22004050
> 
> 
> Hm,
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed some convergence issue on the 8350? We got an open box set from BestBuy, and noticed some horrible convergence. Decided to step up to a 3010 once the $100 rebate is back.



Probably why it was open box. Somebody brought it back. Yeah, some units have problems, but not across the board.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I also have about 10 hrs on the projector and so far I don't see any issues with the unit. Focus is consistent across the screen, convergence is very good, color is good, no complaints here.


----------



## mj75

Hi all. I have an 8350 with 1300 hrs. on it. Running mostly on cinema mode, normal iris, and Eco mode. I have noticed lately watching from any source ( bluray, cable, PC) that the brightness would fluctuate, almost like a flicker.

I played around with my setting and could not find a solution. Anyone else encountered this issue?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mj75* /forum/post/22016271
> 
> 
> Hi all. I have an 8350 with 1300 hrs. on it. Running mostly on cinema mode, normal iris, and Eco mode. I have noticed lately watching from any source ( bluray, cable, PC) that the brightness would fluctuate, almost like a flicker.
> 
> I played around with my setting and could not find a solution. Anyone else encountered this issue?



Try running on LivingRoom color mode ... and Normal brightness (non-eco) ... all for 30 minutes or so and see it that evens out the bulb.


----------



## AricB

I have had this Epson for about 4 months now and it is an excellent panny. My question is I am moving into a new house and I will have a AC vent in the middle of the room. Since this panny has a horizontal shift in it how far to the right can I move it. I will have a 125in screen and it will be about 14 ft from the screen. Thanks


----------



## srauly

AricB...the only time I've seen the term "panny" is as an abbreviation for Panasonic.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AricB* /forum/post/22019027
> 
> 
> I am moving into a new house and I will have a AC vent in the middle of the room. Since this panny has a horizontal shift in it how far to the right can I move it. I will have a 125in screen and it will be about 14 ft from the screen. Thanks



Have you looked at the calculator at epson.com? It will give you max offset for your distance.


At 18ft (96" diag.), max seems to be about 3ft off center.


Have you considered keeping it centered, and mounting in front of vent or behind it (as allowed to obtain desired screen size)?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AricB* /forum/post/22019027
> 
> 
> I have had this Epson for about 4 months now and it is an excellent panny. My question is I am moving into a new house and I will have a AC vent in the middle of the room. Since this panny has a horizontal shift in it how far to the right can I move it. I will have a 125in screen and it will be about 14 ft from the screen. Thanks



Whats the issue?


its in the middle of the ceiling? the wall? not sure what you are trying to move around here...


----------



## c3k

I _finally_ got my screen set up, my amp hooked in, and my 8350 hanging from the ceiling. A basement rec room, 4 windows, 16' across and 35' long, 106" visual apex motorized screen with the projector about 17' from the screen.


Jaw droppingly gorgeous.


This is great. It is silent...(or close enough it doesn't matter). The contrast, colors, brightness.... But then, you guys have heard all this before.


Thanks to all who have posted about their experiences. Reading about it on this forum is what prompted me to buy the Epson HD8350. I'm glad I did.


Thanks guys!


Ken


----------



## allbaugh_04

I'm glad I did too, enjoy. Post pics.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AricB* /forum/post/22019027
> 
> 
> I have had this Epson for about 4 months now and it is an excellent panny. My question is I am moving into a new house and I will have a AC vent in the middle of the room. Since this panny has a horizontal shift in it how far to the right can I move it. I will have a 125in screen and it will be about 14 ft from the screen. Thanks



I'm assuming that you have to shift your mounting position to the left or right of the vent, and that the HVAC runs the length of the room, so mounting it in front or behind the vent is not an option.


That being said, you'll have no problems shifting your 8350 off-center to avoid the vent. I encourage you to play around with the horizontal lens shift in your current location to see the range that the 8350 can handle.


----------



## srauly

The 8350 has a very generous amount of shift, IMO. I ideally try to keep things as dead-center as possible, in case shifting degrades the picture in any way, but I've recently moved my movie room down from the loft to my living room, and may position my 8350 off-center and between (and just behind) two of my chairs (shooting low rather than shooting from the ceiling mount I had in my loft). I've already experimented with it, and it worked well, though getting up out of the chair made it much easier to block the lens compared to when it was ceiling mounted in my loft (which had very high ceilings, too, so it was actually pretty easy to get up to use the bathroom without ever blocking the image). The plus side with the floor mount, though, will be that I'll get some added brightness boost from my Da-Lite High Power screen, since that screen is designed to maximize brightness in the same angle that the light source comes from.


----------



## c3k

Quick note:


I know that all video adjustments should be considered matters of personal preference. Having said that, I ran the Disney WOW calibration routine disk after mounting my HD8350. Amazingly, right out of the box it was setup correctly.


I'm sure I could play with some settings, but I've never had a TV/monitor which was so well calibrated when I first turned it on.


Ken


----------



## curtlots

I just got my 8350 set up a couple days ago. I only have a couple hours viewing at this point, but overall I'm very impressed.










I've been meaning to re-post these settings from Droid6 (thanks) and the post from c3K above served as a reminder.


I have not had time to adjust settings on my own on the projector yet, and don't have any specialized equipment to analyze these as I go, so I used the settings from Droid6 as a starting point. I realize that everyone has different equipment, rooms, environments, etc... and no two people will likely have the exact same settings, but I feel these are giving me good results.


If I had any complaint at this point, I would have to say I'm not seeing as much variation in the black details as I think I should be seeing. I've read other threads and have seen photos posted that are showing more detail than I'm experiencing at this point. I realize that the 8350 does not have the great blacks that some of the more expensive projectors have, but I know I'm not getting the best that I can yet.


The post with these settings is over a year old though. (perhaps posted more recently) Are there any more recent developments that would result in any of the major settings to change? I'm only asking because I have read some conflicting opinions about using/not using the super white setting and/or the HDMI extended setting.


Like c3K, I also have the Disney WOW disk. The two easy settings I did check were brightness and contrast. Pretty much on the nuts with the settings below. My contrast ended up at 10 rather than 8 though.


My question has more to do with the Gamma, RGB, and RGBCMY. I really don't know how to adjust these settings using the WOW disk. I notice that the settings below for these controls really vary and go away from the default zero settings by some large amounts plus and minus. Are these particular settings likely to vary wildly depending on the projector & environment, or are these going to be the types of settings that are more universally correct?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6* /forum/post/21380719
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> Auto Iris Off or Normal
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> 
> 
> PS3 Settings...
> 
> 
> Video Settings
> 
> -RGB Full Range (HDMI) =Limited
> 
> -Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) =On


----------



## curtlots

Ok.... I think I found the answers I was looking for. Looks like I have a bit of reading ahead of me.










Epson Calibration Guide! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710 


FYI, I played around with the gamma a little bid last night.


The post above has these settings for gamma: Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5


I found that (+) 6 instead of -6 on the second slider improved black detail tremendously. It has me wondering if the -6 is a typo and should instead be +6


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots* /forum/post/22032757
> 
> 
> I found that (+) 6 instead of -6 on the second slider improved black detail tremendously. It has me wondering if the -6 is a typo and should instead be +6



Seems to me that different screens and/or wall color would require different gamma settings. Possibly even source playback machine and maybe even content could play a part? Basically, it varies from install to install.


----------



## roocrew

hello,

I have had my 8350 since 2010 and have been very happy with it. However relatively recently I have noticed dust blobs randomly on the screen and discolouring all the way down right hand side of the image. Dust blobs I can live with but the discolouring is annoying


The discolouring down the right hand side is most obvious on the dimmer colour modes like x.v color, cinema and natural. It is almost unnoticeable on dynamic. It is also right at the very edge running the full vertical length. Shifting the image doesnt improve anything, the whole image shifts along with the discolouring exactly the same as if it was in normal position


My lamp has 1200 hours on it but has run on econ mode and x.v colour for those hours.


I'm out of warranty so sending back to epson isnt an option for me










What would you guys recommend I could do to solve this?


Was a dust blob cleaning tutorial ever posted up?


Would the right hand discolouring be something that would be fixed with a new bulb? (is this happening because my bulb is about to fail?)


As mentioned earlier I had none of these issues when the projector was new, my main objective is to address the discolouring...


thanks in advance


----------



## srauly

How long have you had it? It seems like many have reported getting excellent customer service from Epson, where they've gone above and beyond on issues (though the issues were things that shouldn't have happened in the first place). It might be worth emailing/calling them.


The other day I thought I noticed what looked like a dead pixel (or small cluster), and wondered if it could be one of those dust blobs I'd read about. What does a dust blob look like exactly? Mine seemed to be only the size of 4-8 pixels, and I haven't gone back yet to confirm whether it could even just be a speck of dirt on the outside of the lens.


----------



## roocrew

srauly my main issue is I bought it online from US and I live in Aus.

Pretty sure this means I have no warranty at all


----------



## mach250

Anyone have tips on how to remove dust from behind the lens? Seeing some dust spots projected onto my screen when theres nothing but a black screen showing.


----------



## hallifallen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250* /forum/post/22036465
> 
> 
> Anyone have tips on how to remove dust from behind the lens? Seeing some dust spots projected onto my screen when theres nothing but a black screen showing.



I'm also experiencing two rather large, faint green blobs on the screen when it's dark. Any tips on how to clean them out? Should I just take canned air and spray into the vents? Any help greatly appreciated.


----------



## OSUDesi

From page 236



1. Green dust blob showed up in lower left corner of my screen -was a bit worried about this since its been a known problem on this thread with other 8350 users. Opened up the lamp area using a screwdriver (pops open really easily I couldn't find the official tool but any flat head works fine). Took the lamp out and blew all over the place with compressed air where the lamp sits including the lamp itself. Put lamp back into projector and woila no green dust blob. Probably my first recommendation for those having dust blob issues, before you send in the projector. (also clean the filter out periodically)


----------



## hallifallen

Thank you sir. I will give it a go.


----------



## Nitrox36

Hey Guys, long time since ive been on here! got a new addition to the house my SOn, anyways

I have a 15x16 room dedicated to theatre and i have a wilson art designer white laminate screen 120, a denon avr 790 and a epson 8350 running it. OK now, I really want 3d but love my 8350, so i want a 5010 what do u all think? also i tried the new ONKYO 616,515 and both wont work with my 8350. the display would lokk good for a sec then bounce around and distort, almost like a VHS tape that needs tracking. SO dont know what reciever to get either, my budget for reciever is about 700 tops and projector wise 2700. the screen needs to be re stretched lol. thanks for all the help


----------



## Nitrox36

also as for the epson 5010 any ideas for compatable glasses? ty. B&H photo seemed to have the best price on the 5010. i dont know any other reputable companys there are none in knoxville tn that i know of


----------



## Meinbeast

I just wanted to post about my experience with epson customer service tonight. I purchased my 8350 in February of 2011 for the Super Bowl. It had been working great until a few months ago when I began getting the error in auto iris warnings. I would shut it down and hit the power switch and all would be right in the world. It happened more and more frequently until tonight when it turned on and the bulb went out.


I called customer service and because of the auto iris issues I was having they are overnighting a replacement. I didn't ask for that, I called expecting to find out how to get it serviced and to buy a new bulb. I have never had an experience where a company stands behind its products like this.


I just thought I would post about a great customer service experience and that epson has my projector $$$ for years to come


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Yes epson is very eager to send you a replacement. It seems no matter what the issue is their solution is to just "overnight a replacement to you". Now i dont want to be the negative force here and jinx you but welcome to the espson circle of returns. If you are very lucky your replacement will be as good as yours before it went haywire. Many of us on here have played the exchange game 4 or 5 times. They will be good about just exchanging them for you if you are not satisfied so be patient and dont settle and just prepare yourself for the game. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!


----------



## Nitrox36

Anyone ??


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nitrox36* /forum/post/22047529
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, long time since ive been on here! got a new addition to the house my SOn, anyways
> 
> I have a 15x16 room dedicated to theatre and i have a wilson art designer white laminate screen 120, a denon avr 790 and a epson 8350 running it. OK now, I really want 3d but love my 8350, so i want a 5010 what do u all think? also i tried the new ONKYO 616,515 and both wont work with my 8350. the display would lokk good for a sec then bounce around and distort, almost like a VHS tape that needs tracking. SO dont know what reciever to get either, my budget for reciever is about 700 tops and projector wise 2700. the screen needs to be re stretched lol. thanks for all the help



You may have something else going on if the new Onkyos won't work since they use standard HDMI v1.4A connections. I have an Onkyo 709 and it works flawlessly. I'd try a different HDMI cable and see if that is the culprit.


As for all your 5010 questions, I don't know. Might want to find a 5010 forum and ask them.


----------



## Nitrox36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/22052424
> 
> 
> You may have something else going on if the new Onkyos won't work since they use standard HDMI v1.4A connections. I have an Onkyo 709 and it works flawlessly. I'd try a different HDMI cable and see if that is the culprit.
> 
> 
> As for all your 5010 questions, I don't know. Might want to find a 5010 forum and ask them.



lol wow, I was hoping for some input, not a go some where else! I see posts that r pages of ideas, so anybody else?


----------



## srauly

Seriously, there's a thread dedicated to the 5010 model here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1377321 


If you're asking questions about the 5010, you should be asking them there, not asking them here and then wondering why no one responded. People here aren't not responding because they're rude, they're not responding because they own the 8350, not the 5010, and most likely have little to no personal experience with the 5010.


----------



## nineset

I finally got sick of the dust blobs... thus is my story of warning... do not blow compressed air in a hot projector lol... I'm sure most of you would have known that already... Flames!...! lots of flames and burnt polarizer... and I'm missing an eyelash or two. HAHAH no worries I was going for a darwin award... maybe next year.


Waited for the projector to cool and then went to again. It's easy to get into the projector. I was successful in blowing out the largest of my dust blobs (red and some green). I'm confident with a cold projector that this could be a safe and non-damaging clean out. I'm going to in a few weeks dismantle it completely remove the mother board and do some cleaning around the polarizer/lcd area. I will post a tutorial at that point for basic cleaning. So my eyelash loss can be your gain


----------



## curtlots

Looking forward to the video nineset! Perhaps an eyelash curler would help to hide the loss of those 'lashes.










Curious, what causes dust blobs to appear? Does dust settle on the bulb & burn-in, on the lens, or something else?


----------



## jvinhj240

i am running this cable, you guys think this is good enough or do i have issue with this as lagging?
http://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Ultra-Se...7812417&sr=8-1


----------



## Duke Broadway

Hey guys,


I am in the process for finishing my basement and will be placing a projector in the family room portion of a 15' x 30' open room. I am in the final stages of running my electrical and trying to determine a location for power for the projector.


Here are the key considerations:


Screen size: 106 inches

Ceiling height: 7' 9"

Top of screen: 7.5" from ceiling

Bottom of screen: 33.5" from floor

Left edge of screen: 36" from wall

Planned throw: 13'


I am trying to figure out the best location to ceiling mount the projector. The thing that is the biggest factor is my want for gaming with the Kinect. Obviously I would like to game with out casting shadows. I assume I will need to use some vertical lens shift due to placement of my screen, which may limit the amount of horizontal shift. Any suggestions on placement, or should I just say screw it and mount it dead center.


Thanks Guys.


----------



## MississippiMan

Duke,


You need to mount the Top edge of the Screen almost against the Edge of the Ceiling, and place the Pj as far forward as possible and still get the image size you want (...or less would be better...) That would be at 11' from the Screen.


And absolutely try to center the lens on the screen. The Pj can / should be mounted so that the Bottom (top when inverted) is about 6" off the ceiling. Use a dedicated Mounting system such as the Chief RPA168 and a Peerless ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate

(get both through Projector People Ext 2002 -Kirk) You'll connect the Chief & Peerless units with a NPT 1.5" dia. x 2" Threaded Steel Pipe Nipple (Home Depot)


Do all of that and you'll be able to stand about 8' from the Screen without casting a shadow.....closer if your kids are munckin sized. Or you...either way.


----------



## Duke Broadway

MississippiMan,


Thanks for the advice. Basically that 7.5inch from top of ceiling accounts for screen housing. I am planning on going with a VApex standard electric screen.


I am 5'8" so that could be considered munchin size...lol. I was just thinking that for general viewing, it might be a more pleasant experience if the PJ was mounted behind seating. I am open to anything though. I know for the screen size I have planned 10'4" is the closest i can go for throw distance.


I just want to allow myself wiggle room for an upgrade down the line. In the future I intend to have a tv mounted on the projector wall an the screen will be offset enough from the wall to conceal the tv when the projector is in use.


Thanks again.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots* /forum/post/22054653
> 
> 
> Curious, what causes dust blobs to appear? Does dust settle on the bulb & burn-in, on the lens, or something else?



I quote me... Still curious. What's the answer?


----------



## sschantz

Since I am buying the 8350 myself, might I inquire what types of HDMI cables you are using? I have gone blind reading all the different reviews but figured I would ask people here with the same product...


Also, if anyone is a Best Buy Silver Rewards Zone Member, they offer a $100 coupon on any home theater purchases. Here is the catch, a Geek Squad member will come to your home and give you a free home theater assessment and gives you the coupon then and there. I spoke to the Store Manager and told him, I already know what I want and don't want to waste a Geek Squads time to come out here to just give me the coupon. He said no problem and when I come in to ask for him and he will do the $100 discount.


So it brings this down to $1199....not too shabby


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I am buying the 8350 myself, might I inquire what types of HDMI cables you are using? I have gone blind reading all the different reviews but figured I would ask people here with the same product...
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone is a Best Buy Silver Rewards Zone Member, they offer a $100 coupon on any home theater purchases. Here is the catch, a Geek Squad member will come to your home and give you a free home theater assessment and gives you the coupon then and there. I spoke to the Store Manager and told him, I already know what I want and don't want to waste a Geek Squads time to come out here to just give me the coupon. He said no problem and when I come in to ask for him and he will do the $100 discount.
> 
> 
> So it brings this down to $1199....not too shabby



All my cables are from Monoprice.com... Don't spend any more than $10 for a cable. Any cables that cost more are a ripoff.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/22066865
> 
> 
> All my cables are from Monoprice.com... Don't spend any more than $10 for a cable. Any cables that cost more are a ripoff.



Yep, I have a 25ft HDMI from Monoprice, it's also "in-wall" rated and is almost too thick of a cable to make bends easily. Very good quality for a very low price.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz* /forum/post/22066586
> 
> 
> Since I am buying the 8350 myself, might I inquire what types of HDMI cables you are using? I have gone blind reading all the different reviews but figured I would ask people here with the same product...
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone is a Best Buy Silver Rewards Zone Member, they offer a $100 coupon on any home theater purchases. Here is the catch, a Geek Squad member will come to your home and give you a free home theater assessment and gives you the coupon then and there. I spoke to the Store Manager and told him, I already know what I want and don't want to waste a Geek Squads time to come out here to just give me the coupon. He said no problem and when I come in to ask for him and he will do the $100 discount.
> 
> 
> So it brings this down to $1199....not too shabby



Picked mine up for $1080 no tax, free shipping. Keep shopping you will find a better deal.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

My only complaint so far is that the text does not seem as sharp as my old 720p DLP projector. Keep playing with the focus but it's just a little soft when I view text.


----------



## Jobu604




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/22068231
> 
> 
> Yep, I have a 25ft HDMI from Monoprice, it's also "in-wall" rated and is almost too thick of a cable to make bends easily. Very good quality for a very low price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked mine up for $1080 no tax, free shipping. Keep shopping you will find a better deal.



Where'd you get it for $1080?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/22068236
> 
> 
> My only complaint so far is that the text does not seem as sharp as my old 720p DLP projector. Keep playing with the focus but it's just a little soft when I view text.



yes I agree...

when i send my htpc to it

the text seems soft...


anyone else see this issue?


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jobu604* /forum/post/22068278
> 
> 
> Where'd you get it for $1080?



Electronics Expo through Amazon.


----------



## milkman55

Didn't find the Electronics Expo on Amazon, but both Projector People and Visual Apex have it for $1099 over Memorial Day weekend, free ship and no tax.


Going to order mine today from PP. This will be my first theater setup. Going with the Elite Sable 110" screen off Amazon for $279, prime shipping.


Looking forward to trying this out. I already had three LED TV's and wanted to try something different.


This thread has been very helpful.


----------



## Grayson73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/22068236
> 
> 
> My only complaint so far is that the text does not seem as sharp as my old 720p DLP projector. Keep playing with the focus but it's just a little soft when I view text.



Strange that 720p would be sharper than 1080p. Is that because the 720p is DLP and the 1080p is LCD?


----------



## kawie01

Bulb dimming? It may be me, but it sure does seem like my bulb is dimming at 500 hours. Anyone else have a bulb go this early?


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grayson73* /forum/post/22069960
> 
> 
> Strange that 720p would be sharper than 1080p. Is that because the 720p is DLP and the 1080p is LCD?



I think this is just part of the DLP vs LCD debate. My DLP was always tack sharp but the Epson, while very good, is not quite as sharp when viewing text from my HTPC. I guess it is one of the trade offs I made not to hear the DLP color wheel noise, the Epson is nearly silent, the air coming out of my A/C vent makes more noise.


Also, the Epson does not heat up my home theater nearly as much as my old HC1500, another benefit I noticed after using the projector for about 25 hours now.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *milkman55* /forum/post/22069843
> 
> 
> Didn't find the Electronics Expo on Amazon, but both Projector People and Visual Apex have it for $1099 over Memorial Day weekend, free ship and no tax.
> 
> 
> Going to order mine today from PP. This will be my first theater setup. Going with the Elite Sable 110" screen off Amazon for $279, prime shipping.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to trying this out. I already had three LED TV's and wanted to try something different.
> 
> 
> This thread has been very helpful.



Projector people is a forum sponsor so thats always nice to buy from them if they are competetive, when I bought mine they were $200 more.


----------



## liveinxs

I thought I would share my install of my 8350 and Valpex 92 motorized tab setup.


I built a custom enclosure with 4 fans, two pushing fresh air in, and two suck air out.


Also I built a custom enclosure for the screen.


It has a linear actuator which lowers the door and at the same time turns on the 4 fans, this action is actuated by a set of relays, and put into action by Epsons 12v trigger.


Also the screen lowers when the door of the cabinet begins to open.


All this happens with a push of one button on my remote.


And of course all of this is reversed with one push of a button.


I also built a custom coffered ceiling to disguise any hint of a home theater in our family room.


I just have to paint it all to match.


In the center of the ceiling is a location where a Canvas Mural will go, accented by the LED lighting, which will be covered with Cove moulding, allowing just a hint of light that will accent the mural, but even now , does not interfere with the screen.


Here's the link to the video, goes to show with the knowledge and skill, the need to hire these overpriced home theater specialist, just isn't needed.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/3eb0485f.mp4 


Let me know what you think.


Eric


----------



## newguy12345

i obviously didn't read everyone of these post. lol so many. but this model seems to have lots of issues. do you guys know if they have been corrected?


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement number three arrived tonight. I think it is brand new. Doesn't matter though. This one is DOA!!!! Tried to fire it up and the temp light flashed red. Manual says faulty fan or faulty sensor. Ie send it back.
> 
> 
> I am thinking of asking for a better model. Maybe refurb 8700?? And paying the difference. Anyone have any luck with something like this or any luck with getting money back???



Got replacement number four hooked up about two weeks ago and it worked....until last night! Have the dreaded auto iris error. This is on a new in the box replacement that has 18 hours on it. As my wife says " so these things are basically junk". Going to have to get back on the phone with Epson but just wanted to post my experiences as a cautionary tale for those considering this projector.


----------



## liveinxs

Well I don't know what you guys are doing wrong, but I have yet to have any problems with mine, I've had it up and running for nearly two months with zero issues.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liveinxs* /forum/post/22071129
> 
> 
> I thought I would share my install of my 8350 and Valpex 92 motorized tab setup.
> 
> 
> I built a custom enclosure with 4 fans, two pushing fresh air in, and two suck air out.
> 
> 
> Also I built a custom enclosure for the screen.
> 
> 
> It has a linear actuator which lowers the door and at the same time turns on the 4 fans, this action is actuated by a set of relays, and put into action by Epsons 12v trigger.
> 
> 
> Also the screen lowers when the door of the cabinet begins to open.
> 
> 
> All this happens with a push of one button on my remote.
> 
> 
> And of course all of this is reversed with one push of a button.
> 
> 
> I also built a custom coffered ceiling to disguise any hint of a home theater in our family room.
> 
> 
> I just have to paint it all to match.
> 
> 
> In the center of the ceiling is a location where a Canvas Mural will go, accented by the LED lighting, which will be covered with Cove moulding, allowing just a hint of light that will accent the mural, but even now , does not interfere with the screen.
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the video, goes to show with the knowledge and skill, the need to hire these overpriced home theater specialist, just isn't needed.
> 
> http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/3eb0485f.mp4
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Eric



I can see you have put a whole lot of work into your setup. Nice job.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newguy12345* /forum/post/22071730
> 
> 
> i obviously didn't read everyone of these post. lol so many. but this model seems to have lots of issues. do you guys know if they have been corrected?



No problems with mine. You need to remember, this is one of the most popular projects being sold today, for every one person that posts they have a problem, there is probably a thousand owners that have seen no problems and are totally oblivious to what you are reading on this forum.


----------



## liveinxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No problems with mine. You need to remember, this is one of the most popular projects being sold today, for every one person that posts they have a problem, there is probably a thousand owners that have seen no problems and are totally oblivious to what you are reading on this forum.



you hit the nail on the head. Probably millions of these things sold and to have a handful problems, if they do exist is a great record.


My unit has operated flawlessly since it when I to operation, I have a little over 200 hours and never saw one issue.


I just think some people are nit picky , after all you are only spending 1000.00, what do you want, a 50,000.00 projector.


Nothing wrong with this projector, in fact we are gonna buy a second for our downstairs Family Room.


----------



## RamKat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liveinxs* /forum/post/22071129
> 
> 
> I thought I would share my install of my 8350 and Valpex 92 motorized tab setup.



I guess you meant a Vapex 92 screen


> Quote:
> I built a custom enclosure with 4 fans, two pushing fresh air in, and two suck air out.



I like the idea. How loud are the fans compared to the fan in the 8350? What fan did you choose?



> Quote:
> It has a linear actuator which lowers the door and at the same time turns on the 4 fans, this action is actuated by a set of relays, and put into action by Epsons 12v trigger.



I would add a thermal sensor to the fans' control logic to ensure that they will keep moving air when the door is closed.


Cool job!


----------



## nineset




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots* /forum/post/22054653
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the video nineset! Perhaps an eyelash curler would help to hide the loss of those 'lashes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious, what causes dust blobs to appear? Does dust settle on the bulb & burn-in, on the lens, or something else?



Dust collects on the blue, red and green LCD or on the blue, red, or green polarizer. The light travels through and projects the dust. You can get a good idea of what blobs you have by reducing the screen size and giving the picture a near sided focus you'll see a bunch of green and maybe a couple red pieces of dust and or small hairs etc... wish they were not such a PITA to blow out though. Some projectors have sealed light paths that prevent dust blobs from collecting. The 8350 does not.


----------



## curtlots

Thanks for the explanation nineset!


----------



## JimJamz2

Just a post to introduce myself. I just installed an 8350. Its my first projector and I have already learned a lot from reading your posts...so I thought I would join the fun. Thanks! -Jim


----------



## newsguy

So after moving into a 1 bedroom apartment years ago, I left the FP world (Sanyo Z3). Now I would like to build a dedicated room in my new place with an 8350. I've read reviews that say wall mounting may be an issue due to where the image begins. Is there an image calculator online that will tell me where my image will be based on projector height? This was never an issue with the Z3 due to manual lens shift. Thanks.


NEVERMIND, I confused it for the fixed lens 3010.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newsguy* /forum/post/22084590
> 
> 
> So after moving into a 1 bedroom apartment years ago, I left the FP world (Sanyo Z3). Now I would like to build a dedicated room in my new place with an 8350. I've read reviews that say wall mounting may be an issue due to where the image begins. Is there an image calculator online that will tell me where my image will be based on projector height? This was never an issue with the Z3 due to manual lens shift. Thanks.



Go to Epson.com, they have a distance calculator.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newsguy* /forum/post/22084590
> 
> 
> This was never an issue with the Z3 due to manual lens shift. Thanks.
> 
> 
> NEVERMIND, I confused it for the fixed lens 3010.



The manual lens shift of the 8350 (shifting optically instead of digitally) works great for me.


I did not know they dropped it on the 3010 (seems like a down-grade). It says the 3010 has Keystone Correction (like my brother's old Optoma DLP). I didn't even know 3LCD tech. could use electronic keystoning (instead).


Looks like the 5010 is back to optical lens shifting. Am I reading this right? I can post in 3010 and/or 5010 thread if required. Didn't mean to go off-subject ... just makes be glad I got the 8350 and not 3010 (for 1080p entry level).


----------



## DukeOfPrunes

Just got mine at Best Buy. I probably paid a bit more but they had 3 years no interest financing! I am totally thrilled with this unit. The cave is now complete!


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DukeOfPrunes* /forum/post/22085449
> 
> 
> Just got mine at Best Buy. I probably paid a bit more but they had 3 years no interest financing! I am totally thrilled with this unit. The cave is now complete!



Too funny as I did as well. I went in to do some measurements of the display model of the actual feet and not the full unit. Anyway sales person says, we just got one back, would I be interested in an open box....$970....I jumped on it. (98 hrs on the bulb)

*I also opted for the 2 yr waranty for $140 but I am wondering if I needed it after noticing that Epson offers a 2 yr.*


Right now I have it showing on a faint blue wall in my bedroom, hooked to a Blu Ray and sound bar...all I can say is WOW!!!! My Onkyo 609 arrives on Sat and need to order my Carada screen tomorrow.....giddyup....


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddahead* /forum/post/21994533
> 
> 
> Never put a FP in a cabinet.Even with fans.You need room for it to breath.Your focus problem is due to heat I bet.



I agree that it is not optimal so I bought a remotely read thermometer. The cabinet starts at about 72 but only raises up to about 95 degrees. I was surprised it didn't get hotter. Now I wonder if that is really going to be a problem.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi* /forum/post/22084676
> 
> 
> Go to Epson.com, they have a distance calculator.



before i put mine on the ceiling i had it on a glass shelf on the wall

not sure what you are trying to figure out, but it has lens shift so you could almost put it anywhere...


----------



## DukeOfPrunes

Hi,


I turned my unit on this morning and got the dreaded "Auto Iris Error" message. I've only had the projector for a week and there's about 10 hours on it. Unplugged it and restarted and it seems OK.


We did have a power outage last night, but the projector was not turned on when the lights went out. I did watch some baseball on it after the lights came back on and had no problem. Not sure if the outage could have had anything to do with it. I had a lemon Panasonic LCD projection TV a while back - I really don't want to have to repeat what I went through with that!


Should I be returning this back to Best Buy for an exchange?


Thanks


----------



## liveinxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DukeOfPrunes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I turned my unit on this morning and got the dreaded "Auto Iris Error" message. I've only had the projector for a week and there's about 10 hours on it. Unplugged it and restarted and it seems OK.
> 
> 
> We did have a power outage last night, but the projector was not turned on when the lights went out. Not sure if that could have had anything to do with it. I had a lemon Panasonic LCD projection TV a while back - I really don't want to have to repeat what I went through with that!
> 
> 
> Should I be returning this back to Best Buy for an exchange?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I personally think people make too much of this auto iris thing.


You just said it worked when you turned it off and restarted it.


I believe that it is similar to when you get the HDMI handshake issue on some components.


Plan and simple, the startup just had a hiccup, went out of sequence of order of startup, as long as it doesn't happen during the viewing of the movie or show, I wouldn't worry.


Maybe I am wrong, but every time I hear someone complain about this auto iris issue is at startup, which further supports my "handshake"/sequence theory.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hh22166* /forum/post/22097375
> 
> 
> I have a 2 year old daughter and Mom stays home during the day. Projector gets turned on around 7am and used the entire day. By the time I go to bed it is 11pm or so. Once I build the basement and move my SXRD back upstairs im sure the hours will go down



I bet you the hours never go down, you just use it less often.


----------



## Stieller

I have one of these and I love the darn thing.. I just moved house.. Set it up exactly as before but the weirdest thing.. I have it set up the SAME distance from my screen as my last place...

But the image size no longer fills my screen...

The zoom ring is out as far as it will go.


Am I crazy?

Is there something I've forgotten when I set it up??


Advice??


----------



## banjobiotic

Hello all,

I've had my 8350 for a little over a year now with now issues. Recently however a problem has developed. I run everything from my HP Envy 17 laptop to the 8350 via a 20 ft HDMI cable. Lately when I turn on the projector it does not immediately show the computer screen and instead flickers in and out for awhile with an occasional message in the bottom left corner saying "HDMI NOT SUPPORTED" after 5 minutes or so the problem corrects itself almost as if things had to warm up. Like I said I've been running it this way for over a year with no problems and now this. Anyone run in to any similar issues or have any advice. I've already swapped out the cable and that had no effect. I don't have another device that I can run into the projector via HDMI so I can't confirm whether it is the computer or the projector. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



Paul.


----------



## activeight

Guys, does anyone see any issues in installing the 8350 in the room next door to the viewing room with the lens staring through a hole in the gyprock wall ? The only issue I thought was the ir receiver's ability to pick up the remote.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *banjobiotic*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22100956
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for a little over a year now with now issues. Recently however a problem has developed. I run everything from my HP Envy 17 laptop to the 8350 via a 20 ft HDMI cable. Lately when I turn on the projector it does not immediately show the computer screen and instead flickers in and out for awhile with an occasional message in the bottom left corner saying "HDMI NOT SUPPORTED" after 5 minutes or so the problem corrects itself almost as if things had to warm up. Like I said I've been running it this way for over a year with no problems and now this. Anyone run in to any similar issues or have any advice. I've already swapped out the cable and that had no effect. I don't have another device that I can run into the projector via HDMI so I can't confirm whether it is the computer or the projector. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Paul.



Much harder to trouble-shoot without another HDMI capable input device. Aren't Blu-Ray players like $100 or less?


Also, I wonder how do you hear it properly without an amp?


----------



## banjobiotic

Good Quality Bose computer speakers work just fine.


I thought about buying a Blu-Ray player. The computer loaded with a Blu-Ray capable disk drive is and infinitely more versatile way to watch stuff. Even the latest Blue-Ray players that come internet ready with the ability to watch Hulu and Netflix have loads of limitations. For example you can't watch Hulu on any internet ready player that I know of without paying for Hulu Plus. So many different ways to watch TV online. I even stream all my sports events. So probably not gonna get a stand alone player any time soon.


Does my problem sound like anything anyone has encountered before? I know its tough without trying a different component. I'll try to borrow a DVD player from some one.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *banjobiotic*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22107568
> 
> 
> Good Quality Bose computer speakers work just fine.
> 
> I thought about buying a Blu-Ray player. The computer loaded with a Blu-Ray capable disk drive is and infinitely more versatile way to watch stuff. Even the latest Blue-Ray players that come internet ready with the ability to watch Hulu and Netflix have loads of limitations. For example you can't watch Hulu on any internet ready player that I know of without paying for Hulu Plus. So many different ways to watch TV online. I even stream all my sports events. So probably not gonna get a stand alone player any time soon.
> 
> Does my problem sound like anything anyone has encountered before? I know its tough without trying a different component. I'll try to borrow a DVD player from some one.



So basically, you have a HTPC. Yes, I have been building and using HTPC's for many years. However, I still wouldn't give up my HDMI connected Blu-Ray player.


It's basic trouble-shooting. Another HDMI capable device, and a nice short (low gauge) cable, is the only way I can think of to isolate the problem between the projector and HTPC ( aka. input device).


Not trying to belittle your system config, just trying to help. Maybe you are in a bedroom or apartment? Home theater without decent speakers and an amp with some power behind it ... I can't imagine it. Difference between hearing it and experiencing it. For me, Amp and Speakers came many displays-devices ago.


----------



## Mark Booth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/5970#post_21302547
> 
> 
> These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded



My heartfelt THANK YOU to Droid6 for these settings! I installed an Epson 8350 yesterday and immediately noticed it had a significant greenish/blue (teal) tint. Grey sweatshirts looked teal. Wrong, wrong, wrong. It wasn't something that could be adjusted properly with the tint control, not by a long shot. I input all of Droid6's settings and then gave things a check with the Disney WOW disc. Color, tint and brightness were perfect. On the contrast calibration test screen, I could see some of the stars that aren't supposed to be visible. I bumped up the contrast from 8 to 10 and that took care of it.


Then I sat back and watched a variety of material. Everything from animation to scifi to drama. Wow, WOW, WOW, is the Epson 8350 throwing out a gorgeous image now! Absolutely breathtakingly stunning!


Thank you so much Droid6 for sharing these settings!


Mark


----------



## wowyahoo

Hello,


I have an Epson 8350 and a Onkyo 809 remote (RC-810M). I need to know the 5 digit ir code for the Epson, so I can program it in the onkyo remote. This is the sole purose of turning the porjector on and off.


Thanks


----------



## Mark Booth

I've discovered three issues with the image quality of my brand new Epson 8350:


1) There's a faint vertical stripe of light blue tint running the length of the image at the very left edge of the image. This is only noticeable on a white or very light background. The stripe appears to be about 5-6 pixels wide.


2) There's some very slight image distortion in the lower left area of the image. That area curves upward slightly. If the rest of the image is perfectly aligned with my screen (image sides are perfectly square with the black edges of the screen), a white area of the screen is not covered by any projected image in that lower left corner. The bend upwards of the image starts about 15 inches from the left side of the screen (on a 105" screen).


3) There is a slight convergence issue of the red color. Objects (text, etc) have one pixel width of misaligned red vertically on their right edges. Conversely, it is obvious that one pixel width (vertically) of red is missing on the left edges of text. This is only on the vertical (horizontal is perfectly aligned) and it's uniformly misaligned across the entire image.


Here's the rub... If I simply sit and watch a movie from 10 feet away, the only one that really jumps out is the image distortion and that's only when I'm on the menu screen of a Blu-ray that puts a horizontal line across the bottom of the screen. The light blue tint on the left edge can be hidden by simply expanding the image a few extra pixels into the black edge of the screen. The slight convergence issue with the red color is not noticeable at all from 10 feet away. You have to get within about 4 feet of the screen.


Given all of the issues with the 8350 that I've read about in this thread, to some degree I feel lucky that the issues with my new 8350 are so minor. I'm torn whether I should take it back to Fry's to exchange for another unit. The replacement could be worse!


Does anyone own an 8350 with ZERO problems? No convergence issues, no distortion issues, no other issues of any kind?


What to do... what to do!


Mark


----------



## Jobu604

Has anyone been able to find a white 3-foot power cord to use with the Epson 8350? I can only find 6-footers.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Booth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22117835
> 
> 
> Does anyone own an 8350 with ZERO problems? No convergence issues, no distortion issues, no other issues of any kind?


 

Yes.


----------



## wowyahoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jobu604*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22118036
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to find a white 3-foot power cord to use with the Epson 8350? I can only find 6-footers.



any standard power cord will do (three prong). For example, last month I used my PC power cord with the projector.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-FT-foot-feet-18AWG-Power-Cord-Cable-w-3-Conductor-for-PC-HDTV-Connector-/170839069162?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item27c6cd51ea


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wowyahoo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22117379
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have an Epson 8350 and a Onkyo 809 remote (RC-810M). I need to know the 5 digit ir code for the Epson, so I can program it in the onkyo remote. This is the sole purose of turning the porjector on and off.
> 
> Thanks


If the list isn't in the manual ... connect amp to Internet.

 

http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/Product-Preview-Onkyo-TX-NR809-THX-Select2-Plus-Networking-Home-Theater-Receiver.shtml

 

sounds like more of a Harmony-like setup ... but you need Internet to get to it ... not sure how much of that is stored locally.


----------



## wowyahoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22118565
> 
> 
> If the list isn't in the manual ... connect amp to Internet.
> 
> http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/Product-Preview-Onkyo-TX-NR809-THX-Select2-Plus-Networking-Home-Theater-Receiver.shtml
> 
> 
> sounds like more of a Harmony-like setup ... but you need Internet to get to it ... not sure how much of that is stored locally.



worked great. The code was 11379. Thanks alot! This code was stored locally!


----------



## Mark Booth

I exchanged the 8350 for another one at Fry's. The second one is perfect (well, as close to perfect as can be expected). No unusual blue (or other color) tint on any edges. The convergence is spot on perfect. The image still curves upward in the lower left corner but only by a very very small amount. About a tenth of what it was on the first unit.


I've applied Droid6's settings to the new unit and, again, I needed to move Contrast up to 10 (his setting was 8). But every other setting seems right and the picture is GORGEOUS!


I'm very pleased with the image and I'm VERY glad I spent the time and energy to exchange it!


Mark


----------



## Mark Booth

I'm trying to register my 8350 on Epson's site at this link:

http://www.onlineregister.com/epson/app/ 


After I select the Projector family, I can't find the Powerlite Home Cinema (HC) 8350 listed in the available Model choices. Am I blind?


Mark


----------



## activeight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Booth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22119255
> 
> 
> I'm trying to register my 8350 on Epson's site at this link:
> http://www.onlineregister.com/epson/app/
> 
> After I select the Projector family, I can't find the Powerlite Home Cinema (HC) 8350 listed in the available Model choices. Am I blind?
> 
> Mark


----------



## joeags

Make sure that you select home theater instead of projector!


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Booth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7170#post_22119255
> 
> 
> I'm trying to register my 8350 on Epson's site at this link:
> 
> http://www.onlineregister.com/epson/app/
> 
> 
> After I select the Projector family, I can't find the Powerlite Home Cinema (HC) 8350 listed in the available Model choices. Am I blind?
> 
> 
> Mark


----------



## Mark Booth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *activeight*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200_50#post_22119284



Thank you! I didn't occur to me to select Home Theater when there was clearly a Projector family that included many other Powerlite models. Go figure.


Mark


----------



## milkman55

Can someone give me the short course in Aspect control with the 8350?


I have a Pany 220 blue ray player and a Samsung HD cable box connected. I get the HD output set from the cable box and then when I play a blue ray disk, I get the letterbox look on my 110" screen which is 16:9. Regular DVD's play OK with the same settings as the cable box. I have tried all kind of settings on both the Pany and the 8350 and can't seem to find the right combination. Right now I think I have the Pany set on "Auto" for the Aspect output. On the 8350, I usually have it set to Zoom, except some output types restrict the Aspect to "Normal".


Obviously trying to avoid messing with the zoom ring on the projector once I get everything set. Everything looks great, just trying to tweek the settings.


----------



## kevinwoodward

What's the issue? Most blue rays are wider than 16 by 9 so you don't get a full screen... is that what you are asking?


----------



## Fatkinson

AV Company owner here posting an issue.


Hey guys. I sell a lot of the Epson 8350 and love it. But have a major flicker issue going. I have troubleshot it extensively and it seems to be the pairing of recent Onkyo receivers and the projector. Its not the Projector alone, HDMI Line, or Onkyo alone.


Wanted to post for feedback and a warning for theater system pairings.


----------



## milkman55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22121192
> 
> 
> What's the issue? Most blue rays are wider than 16 by 9 so you don't get a full screen... is that what you are asking?



That's what I am trying to figure out, that its normal. So everyone just goes with letterbox when they play Blueray and then have it fill the screen for normal HD content off the cable box? I will be watching 80% HD content off cable and probably 15% DVD and 5% Blueray.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *milkman55*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22122318
> 
> 
> That's what I am trying to figure out, that its normal. So everyone just goes with letterbox when they play Blueray and then have it fill the screen for normal HD content off the cable box? I will be watching 80% HD content off cable and probably 15% DVD and 5% Blueray.


\


sounds about right.


some people will use a wide screen, then get the bars on the sides...

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=35&catid=12&Itemid=20&lang=en 


some people spend a lot more and have masking systems that crop the screen depending on the source.


our projector, is a 16 by 9 format, so some dvd's and most hd programming fit perfectly...


----------



## milkman55

Thanks, this is my first Blueray player. I now see some Blueray disks have an aspect of 1.85:1 and others have 2.35:1. I know this is elementary for some of you, but the 1.85 fit my 16:9 (which is 1.8:1) and the 2.35:1 show in letterbox.


I have only watched two Blueray disks so far, Thor (2.35:1) and Mission Impossible-Ghost Protocol (1.85:1) and saw the difference, but didn't understand it until now.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fatkinson*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22121584
> 
> 
> AV Company owner here posting an issue.
> 
> Hey guys. I sell a lot of the Epson 8350 and love it. But have a major flicker issue going. I have troubleshot it extensively and it seems to be the pairing of recent Onkyo receivers and the projector. Its not the Projector alone, HDMI Line, or Onkyo alone.
> 
> Wanted to post for feedback and a warning for theater system pairings.


Do you mean 2011 series (ie 609) or new 2012 series (ie 616)?

 

I'm using an older Onkyo 607 (and 45 ft. of HDMI cable) ... not a single problem here.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *milkman55*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22122708
> 
> 
> Thanks, this is my first Blueray player. I now see some Blueray disks have an aspect of 1.85:1 and others have 2.35:1. I know this is elementary for some of you, but the 1.85 fit my 16:9 (which is 1.8:1) and the 2.35:1 show in letterbox.
> 
> I have only watched two Blueray disks so far, Thor (2.35:1) and Mission Impossible-Ghost Protocol (1.85:1) and saw the difference, but didn't understand it until now.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


My copy of Avatar on Blu-Ray is 1.78:1, so it fills the whole 16:9 screen nicely. A 1.85:1 is pretty close also (thin horizontal bars).

 

Personally, I just enjoy seeing the whole picture (in the proper aspect ratio), and ignore any bars (really just lack of picture) that might appear.


----------



## redfox102

Hey guys, i have a question. I've had my 8350 since december of 2010, and I've had 3 green dust blobs in the top right corner of the screen since mid 2011. I switched from my diy screen to a favi portable projection screen, and I'm now noticing the spots much more than before. Have any of you had any luck removing dust from the projector? I would really rather not get a refurb model...


----------



## fitbrit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fatkinson*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22121584
> 
> 
> AV Company owner here posting an issue.
> 
> 
> Hey guys. I sell a lot of the Epson 8350 and love it. But have a major flicker issue going. I have troubleshot it extensively and it seems to be the pairing of recent Onkyo receivers and the projector. Its not the Projector alone, HDMI Line, or Onkyo alone.
> 
> 
> Wanted to post for feedback and a warning for theater system pairings.



Yes I get this too with my 5007, but only on my HTPC at 60 Hz. Since I mostly watch movies down there, I have even my desktop set up at 23.976 Hz and there is no longer any flicker.


----------



## JeffK1234

i need some opinions about a situation with the Epson 8350.I bought mine new approx. a year ago. I bought it at Best Buy. I am on my third projector now. The first one had a color issue and the second one had dust blobs that showed up. now the fourth one is giving me a message about a bad auto iris. I really like the projector.I have previously owned two other Epson models with no problems at all. Are there any kinds of lemon laws or will Best Buy do anything about this. I am not looking for anything free just a projector that is reliable.With my luck with it I am afraid any replacement i get will crap out after the warranty expires.Again I love the projector but I have never had this kind of bad luck with any electronic purchase I have ever made. Any opinions or possible options would be appreciated.


----------



## Fatkinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22123212
> 
> 
> Do you mean 2011 series (ie 609) or new 2012 series (ie 616)?
> 
> 
> I'm using an older Onkyo 607 (and 45 ft. of HDMI cable) ... not a single problem here.



609 in house A and 616 in B. Hoping a firmware update could fix.


----------



## TrekFX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22122496
> 
> 
> \
> 
> sounds about right.
> 
> some people will use a wide screen, then get the bars on the sides...
> http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=35&catid=12&Itemid=20&lang=en
> 
> some people spend a lot more and have masking systems that crop the screen depending on the source.
> 
> our projector, is a 16 by 9 format, so some dvd's and most hd programming fit perfectly...



And some spend a lot more still with anamorphic lens systems, et al.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22123579
> 
> 
> Hey guys, i have a question. I've had my 8350 since december of 2010, and I've had 3 green dust blobs in the top right corner of the screen since mid 2011. I switched from my diy screen to a favi portable projection screen, and I'm now noticing the spots much more than before. Have any of you had any luck removing dust from the projector? I would really rather not get a refurb model...


Anyone? I saw something about taking the bulb out and blowing compressed air inside, but i don't know how to get the bulb out, or what direction to blow compressed air... I know i must sound like an idiot, but I'm still fairly new to projectors


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130545
> 
> 
> Anyone? I saw something about taking the bulb out and blowing compressed air inside, but i don't know how to get the bulb out, or what direction to blow compressed air... I know i must sound like an idiot, but I'm still fairly new to projectors


I hesitate to answer because I've never had this problem or ever opened a 3LCD projector. I have opened and successfully serviced an Optima DLP projector (overheating ... just needed to be cleaned out real good). I have many years experience opening and repairing consumer electronics, computers, monitors, TVs, dumb terminals, etc.

 

Whoever does this, needs to be familiar with working inside projectors. Not only so they don't kill themselves on high-voltage, but also so a small problem (dust) doesn't turn major (blown circuit board). If you don't know how to remove bulb ... that's a good sign that you should seek professional help.

 

What would I do if it was mine ... Carefully open projector (remove top cover). Carefully clean out the dust. Don't touch or move any lenses or mirrors. Reassemble. Test operation.

 

Check warranty and remember that sometimes credit cards extend purchases. That being said, I would never trade a new machine for a refurb ... if it only had a minor problem. Sometimes you end up with someone elses problems. Also, I have yet to find an electronic machine that works better after multiple trips through UPS system.


----------



## xccxxx

So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc







To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.


Step 1

Take out the 2 screws circled in red, then flip the projector upside down.


http://imgur.com/aZcEHh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



Step 2

Remove the next twelve screws circled in red.


http://imgur.com/IXD8eh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




Step 3

Gently remove the side as shown in the picture. Once you are this far, you need to sort of push it down to disengage the top clips. This is by far the most annoying part of the whole process, be really careful here and do not force anything too much. You can also try flipping the projector right side up to try and wedge this off that way (it might actually be a little easier like this)


http://imgur.com/J87z2h.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




You can see the top clips here, and also the ribbon cable connecting to the 'Menu' panel.


http://imgur.com/oGTKKh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



Step 4

With the projector right side up, gently lift off the top casing. This comes off really easily, just be careful of the ribbon cable that is connected.



http://imgur.com/RsdDih.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



Step 5

Locate the three ribbons that have the words RED, GREEN and BLUE on them.


http://imgur.com/k8wMBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



They look like this:


http://imgur.com/hjBgBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




Step 6

Spray compressed air as shown in the pictures. (Do all three ribbons just for good measure) I used up a 250ml can while doing this. Try and keep the can as vertical as possible in order to avoid any liquid/moisture coming out of the can. Give it a couple of test sprays before putting it near your projector. You could also get someone to hold the projector on its side while spraying in order to keep the can as upright as possible .


http://imgur.com/qdtxzh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



http://imgur.com/Rx5WSh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




Step 7

Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.


Good luck!


----------



## xccxxx

And for anyone in Australia, this is the compressed air I used (from Officeworks)
http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Technology/Peripherals/Stands-and-Cleaners/RA100150


----------



## Mark Booth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130851
> 
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.
> 
> Step 1
> 
> Take out 2 the screws circled in red, then flip the projector upside down.
> 
> 
> Snip (photos removed to save space in quote)
> 
> 
> Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.
> 
> Good luck!




Excellent tutorial and great photos! Thank you very much!


Mark


----------



## redfox102

Yeah i saw that tutorial before in another thread, but wouldn't taking the case apart void the warranty? If it wont void the warranty, I'll absolutely give it a go. Can anyone suggest a specific air duster? I'd like to minimize the chance of introducing liquid to the lcd panels... I would also really like more information on the method involving blowing compressed air through the bulb compartment, the details were very vague. It doesn't seem like it would work though, there are mirrors directly in the light path after all.


----------



## redfox102

One more thing, I know this will sound stupid, but do i need a repeater for 2 10 foot hdmi cables I'm coupling together? I know under normal circumstances i would just need a regular coupler, but from what I've read, this projector has issues with longer hdmi cables.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22137878
> 
> 
> One more thing, I know this will sound stupid, but do i need a repeater for 2 10 foot hdmi cables I'm coupling together? I know under normal circumstances i would just need a regular coupler, but from what I've read, this projector has issues with longer hdmi cables.




why wouldn't you just go get a 20-25 foot cable and not worry?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redfox102*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22137878
> 
> 
> One more thing, I know this will sound stupid, but do i need a repeater for 2 10 foot hdmi cables I'm coupling together? I know under normal circumstances i would just need a regular coupler, but from what I've read, this projectorhas issues with longer hdmi cables.



I concur with the last poster. But it sounds like you already have 2 cords that you want to use..


If they are good h d m I cords and not the skinny, cheap ones that usually comes with dvd player you should be just fine using them.


for the record, c 8350 does not have cord length issues if a good quality ford issues. I regularly use 25 foot and 35 foot cords. I personally have encountered no issues with the porch I have chosen. I get to say this too, they were not very expensive cords.


----------



## cjsiv

I use a 50ft cable i got from amazon that is pretty cheap. Way beyond the recommended max length. Issue free. It does take a few seconds to acquire the signal but that could just be handshake.


----------



## pauleyc












Went to a community "flicks in the sticks" and they are using an Epson 8350 at 20ft diag!!! Looked great, maybe a little dim but not bad for the dough. Probably 150 people camped out on the lawn to watch.


----------



## pauleyc

I take it back. The movie is a little dark but by the end it was popping. Amazing projector.


----------



## redfox102




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22138150
> 
> 
> I concur with the last poster. But it sounds like you already have 2 cords that you want to use..
> 
> If they are good h d m I cords and not the skinny, cheap ones that usually comes with dvd player you should be just fine using them.
> 
> for the record, c 8350 does not have cord length issues if a good quality ford issues. I regularly use 25 foot and 35 foot cords. I personally have encountered no issues with the porch I have chosen. I get to say this too, they were not very expensive cords.


Thanks MississippiMan, I'm pretty confident it will work now.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22139786
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went to a community "flicks in the sticks" and they are using an Epson 8350 at 20ft diag!!! Looked great, maybe a little dim but not bad for the dough. Probably 150 people camped out on the lawn to watch.


That's awesome! Makes me want to put a ridiculously huge screen in my front yard










Don't want to quote this one, it would take up too much space, but does anyone know if following xccxxx's above guide would void the warranty? I'm trying to decide between getting a refurb, or fixing my original unit.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22139786
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went to a community "flicks in the sticks" and they are using an Epson 8350 at 20ft diag!!! Looked great, maybe a little dim but not bad for the dough. Probably 150 people camped out on the lawn to watch.



can you tell me about that screen they are using in that picture?


----------



## pauleyc

^^ I know the guy that runs it, so I will get more information. Its a large collapsible aluminum frame. The screen snaps to it and has a black border sewn into it (not velvet, just black like the screen). The surface feels like thick plastic w/ a texture. It wrinkles when they fold it up but its not obvious when you are watching it in the dark.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pauleyc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22141629
> 
> 
> ^^ I know the guy that runs it, so I will get more information. Its a large collapsible aluminum frame. The screen snaps to it and has a black border sewn into it (not velvet, just black like the screen). The surface feels like thick plastic w/ a texture. It wrinkles when they fold it up but its not obvious when you are watching it in the dark.


Very cool.

 

Is the projector setup as rear-projection (inside house) or front projection (outside) ... like we usually do it.


----------



## pauleyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22141795
> 
> 
> Very cool.
> 
> 
> Is the projector setup as rear-projection (inside house) or front projection (outside) ... like we usually do it.



Front projection .. if you look in the picture there is caution tape stretched out to the projector so no one trips over the wires.


Its done by my HOA .. very fun family event. They have popcorn, soda, water, etc.. and sometimes treats like ice cream. At the end of the night they do a drawing and someone gets the movie and someone gets the poster. I guessed low, there were 260 people that showed up.


----------



## latenight

I'm experiencing a problem with my 8350.


When I'm watching TV it will just change to static (snow) until I change the input and change it back.


Possible HDMI handshake issue?


----------



## Acesfullup

I'm on my fourth 8350 in 8 months and this is starting to feel like owning an MG. When it's running well, it can turn some heads, but alas, she has mechanical problems.


Hitting the power button results in rising anxiety as the seconds drag waiting for the EPSON logo.


My first had convergence issues, and my next two had the auto iris issue. Oddly, the auto-iris issue on my current 8350 started happening last month and now it appears that the bulb is dead after less than 500 hours. This could be because I've had to turn it off and on several times in an attempt to clear the auto iris issue.


The real shame is that this model had absolutely perfect convergence and no blobs or color issues!


Epson, as always, had outstanding customer service, and is sending me another one.


----------



## khalid7412002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22145914
> 
> 
> I'm on my fourth 8350 in 8 months and this is starting to feel like owning an MG. When it's running well, it can turn some heads, but alas, she has mechanical problems.
> 
> 
> Hitting the power button results in rising anxiety as the seconds drag waiting for the EPSON logo.
> 
> 
> My first had convergence issues, and my next two had the auto iris issue. Oddly, the auto-iris issue on my current 8350 started happening last month and now it appears that the bulb is dead after less than 500 hours. This could be because I've had to turn it off and on several times in an attempt to clear the auto iris issue.
> 
> 
> The real shame is that this model had absolutely perfect convergence and no blobs or color issues!
> 
> 
> Epson, as always, had outstanding customer service, and is sending me another one.



I was on my 1st that I bought in September of last year last until early this year, march I believe, when it blew a bulb. It also exhibited the auto iris error too frequently but i put up with that since the unit worked flawlessly until the bulb blew. I promptly received the replacement bulb, put it in projector and noticed what I think were dust blobs and I tried to blow them out but they persisted.


I called epson and they sent me a refurb replacement which kept getting the auto iris almost daily. Called and got another 1 but convergence was off, called and got another one that had an issue with image retention.


I called and since I would be on my fourth one, they escalated the call to another department which sent me a new projector, least that was what I was told. This one had an issue where a part of the imagine would always be out of focus compared to the rest of the screen.


Called and got another brand new that I am currently on, I feel as though the image is softer than my prior ones but I haven't put too much time into setting it up because I got my wisdom teeth pulled so I haven't been feeling up to the task.


So I had one from September 2011 until march 2012. Since march, I've had 5 including my current one that has had some issue with it. Hopefully my current one works out ok.


Knowing what I know now, I regret going with this model since I've had some many with issues. Would have gotten a higher end epson or another brand altogether. Just my own personally experience, not saying that everyone will have a similar experience.


----------



## curtlots

I only had one MG and that was enough. The MGB was a fun little car but the main engine bearings were only good for about 40k. I hope I have better luck with my 8350. Lovin it so far!


----------



## TrekFX

You do realise that MG stands for "Might Go..." ?


After a few early exchanges, My 8350 is running well.


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TrekFX*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22147759
> 
> 
> You do realise that MG stands for "Might Go..." ?.



And EPSON stands for SON of Electronic Printer - no joke!


----------



## DanP.

How do you tell if your bulb is going? I just called service--dust blobs and the picture brightens and darkens. The dust blobs are getting me my third replacement, but the tech wondered if my bulb was going. I thought it was an iris issue, but he said since I wasn't getting the error and it was brightening and dimming whether I had the iris set to "off," or "auto," so he thought it might be a bad bulb. After talking to someone else (put on hold), they decided to replace it because of the dust blobs. I thought I might have dodged a bullet because the bulb was no longer under warranty (my second replacement, warranty goes back to March 2011). I only had 600 hours on this bulb, so I never thought of it being the bulb. So, could the bulb have been going? Like I said, I noticed it most on brighter images--it would brighten up, then darken, and sometimes it would slowly brighten (a second or two), then quickly darken. It would do this every few minutes. It got worse quickly--over the span of a couple of days. Last night it was doing it on dimmer images. I'll be getting my replacement tomorrow or the next day, so until then I'm not going to use the projector. I don't want to take the chance to return the unit with a burnt out bulb.


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanP.*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22150506
> 
> 
> How do you tell if your bulb is going? I just called service--dust blobs and the picture brightens and darkens. The dust blobs are getting me my third replacement, but the tech wondered if my bulb was going. I thought it was an iris issue, but he said since I wasn't getting the error and it was brightening and dimming whether I had the iris set to "off," or "auto," so he thought it might be a bad bulb. After talking to someone else (put on hold), they decided to replace it because of the dust blobs. I thought I might have dodged a bullet because the bulb was no longer under warranty (my second replacement, warranty goes back to March 2011). I only had 600 hours on this bulb, so I never thought of it being the bulb. So, could the bulb have been going? Like I said, I noticed it most on brighter images--it would brighten up, then darken, and sometimes it would slowly brighten (a second or two), then quickly darken. It would do this every few minutes. It got worse quickly--over the span of a couple of days. Last night it was doing it on dimmer images. I'll be getting my replacement tomorrow or the next day, so until then I'm not going to use the projector. I don't want to take the chance to return the unit with a burnt out bulb.



Do you run your projector in ECO mode? If so, try running your projector on Normal in Dynamic mode for an evening. For whatever reason, that is what solved it for me (and for others that have brought up this issue in this thread). As for the dust blobs, that can be fixed with a can of compressed air. Check out entry #7219 for very detailed instructions. I would strongly recommend trying these steps first before you keep the replacement, especially if you are happy with everything else. From what I read in this thread, the replacements can be hit or miss.


----------



## sschantz

Where do I find the eco mode?


----------



## supahfly112

What is the largest projection size anyone has tried on this? I have one at home which I'm projecting to a 135" screen and is perfect. I don't want to have to unmount it for work but we're looking for something we can use to project on to a 240" screen outdoor at night time (restaurant). Has anyone tried a screen of that size and how does it look?


----------



## carp

Mine is 158" diagonal 2:35:1, at it looks great and that is with zooming so that the black bars are off the screen so if I kept that same screen height for 16:9 (which I don't, I zoom down back to 124" diagonal for 16:9) then the screen size is 167" which still looks great, but of course some of it is above and below my screen projected on the wall. I bet it would look decent close to 200 but I don't know about much more than that...


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22152556
> 
> 
> Where do I find the eco mode?



It's in the setup menu near the bottom I think. I think it's labeled "lamp mode" and your options are Normal or ECO.


----------



## wowyahoo

I have the epson 8350 but no tv or cable. The projector does not have a TV tuner.


So, could I use the TiVo Premiere HD DVR and hook an antenna to it and then use hdmi out to connect to my receiver?


Is there another option under $100 that would work?


Thanks


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wowyahoo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22161599
> 
> 
> I have the epson 8350 but no tv or cable. The projector does not have a TV tuner.
> 
> So, could I use the TiVo Premiere HD DVR and hook an antenna to it and then use hdmi out to connect to my receiver?
> 
> Is there another option under $100 that would work?
> 
> Thanks



Yes, for "off the air" broadcast, of course..


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OSUDesi*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22150620
> 
> 
> Do you run your projector in ECO mode? If so, try running your projector on Normal in Dynamic mode for an evening. For whatever reason, that is what solved it for me (and for others that have brought up this issue in this thread). As for the dust blobs, that can be fixed with a can of compressed air. Check out entry #7219 for very detailed instructions. I would strongly recommend trying these steps first before you keep the replacement, especially if you are happy with everything else. From what I read in this thread, the replacements can be hit or miss.


Thanks for the reply. Yes, I run it in Eco mode. I'll try the other to see if that makes a difference. As far as cleaning, I'm much too chicken to pop open the projector while it's under warranty. I build computers, so I can handle myself inside electronics, but while I have a warranty, I'll use it. If I get a loser replacement, I'll just ask for another. Epson is very good about them, and if I get another one that needs replacing I'm going for the "new" one.


After the warranty is up (next March), though, I'll clean when necessary. That was a very good primer on how to do it.


One more question, does anyone know when you get a refurbished, is the bulb new or do they just make sure that works and leave it in?


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130858
> 
> 
> And for anyone in Australia, this is the compressed air I used (from Officeworks)
> http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Technology/Peripherals/Stands-and-Cleaners/RA100150



This is more a question about your cleaning primer in the earlier post, but I didn't want to quote the whole thing...


On the last photo, it looks like you're blowing air on the ribbon cable from below the circuit board. Also, on the earlier photos, it looks like you're blowing air down the side of the ribbons, why would dust on the ribbon cable make blobs? Will blowing air on the ribbon direct the air to and across the LCD panels?


Other than that, thanks for an excellent lesson!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanP.*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22162236
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Yes, I run it in Eco mode. I'll try the other to see if that makes a difference. As far as cleaning, I'm much too chicken to pop open the projector while it's under warranty. I build computers, so I can handle myself inside electronics, but while I have a warranty, I'll use it. If I get a loser replacement, I'll just ask for another. Epson is very good about them, and if I get another one that needs replacing I'm going for the "new" one.
> 
> After the warranty is up (next March), though, I'll clean when necessary. That was a very good primer on how to do it.
> 
> One more question, does anyone know when you get a refurbished, is the bulb new or do they just make sure that works and leave it in




Always a new Bulb


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22162379
> 
> 
> Always a new Bulb


Thank you. That's one benefit of going through the hassle of returning. I'll give Epson credit, though, they have never balked at replacing. I'll buy from them whenever possible because of their excellent customer service.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanP.*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22164976
> 
> 
> Thank you. That's one benefit of going through the hassle of returning. I'll give Epson credit, though, they have never balked at replacing. I'll buy from them whenever possible because of their excellent customer service.



thats what i keep reading.

just seems like if they did a little qa before sending them out that would be good customer service

what they have is just a great return policy.


----------



## kehakas

I'm sorry for this neurotic question. My roommate didn't realize you're supposed to use the dials for lens shift and just pushed the lens around by hand three or four times. Do you think that stripped the gears or did some kind of permanent damage that I'll see down the line?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22174292
> 
> 
> I'm sorry for this neurotic question. My roommate didn't realize you're supposed to use the dials for lens shift and just pushed the lens around by hand three or four times. Do you think that stripped the gears or did some kind of permanent damage that I'll see down the line?



Who can tell ?


I would suggest doing 2 things at this point.


First simply try using it, both horizontal and vertical lens shift as well as the Zoom and if you get smooth action with no binding or slipping I'd say you're as well offer as you possibly could be under the situation.


And the second thing.


Do the same thing with your roommate's head and neck, and see how he likes it?


----------



## srauly

I accidentally "banged into" the lens before, causing it to shift significantly. The horizontal/vertical shift dials still worked just as "well" afterwards. Of course, they leave a lot to be desired to begin with. Chances are you're fine.


----------



## kehakas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22174595
> 
> 
> Who can tell ?
> 
> I would suggest doing 2 things at this point.
> 
> First simply try using it, both horizontal and vertical lens shift as well as the Zoom and if you get smooth action with no binding or slipping I'd say you're as well offer as you possibly could be under the situation.
> 
> And the second thing.
> 
> Do the same thing with your roommate's head and neck, and see how he likes it?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22174848
> 
> 
> I accidentally "banged into" the lens before, causing it to shift significantly. The horizontal/vertical shift dials still worked just as "well" afterwards. Of course, they leave a lot to be desired to begin with. Chances are you're fine.



Thanks for the reassurances! I feel better. This is a great projector.


----------



## thatgameguy

Question:


I just moved and my old place I was able to have the projector in the back of the room basically behind the screen. Now that I moved, the screen is on the front wall but I need the projector to be on the side wall of the room. I thought it could go left and right but that doesn't seem to be the case.


Please tell me I'm missing something and I can project from an angle on the side of the room to the middle wall. I don't think I'll be able to have it behind the wall, it just might not work and I may have to sell it if it doesn't. I can't mount it on the celing as I'm renting and can't drill through. I'm thinking of getting a shelf for the back wall but running the wires will be a pain in the ass to the media computer and game systems.


If only, it could project from the side...


----------



## OSUDesi

Are you missing the fact that the projector has a feature called lens shift?


----------



## Darth Indy

Thinking of buying this today , how is panning scenes on this? I can't stand the judder/jitter effect. I really wish this had frame interpolation.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darth Indy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22177471
> 
> 
> Thinking of buying this today , how is panning scenes on this? I can't stand the judder/jitter effect. I really wish this had frame interpolation.



All I can compare the 8350 to, is the Toshiba 65" TV it replaced. The judder on the TV was noticeable and it bothered me. So far, after a couple months living with the projector, I am finding it much better. I would like to see what others have to say about this.


----------



## jpolachak

I have had my 8350 since Nov of 2010. It is still the greatest home theater purchase i have ever made. I had epson replace the bulb at 1700 hours because it was dimmer. They asked no questions and sent me a new bulb. I just said it wasn't as bright as when i bought it. They told me it should last 4k hours. Then they just sent me the new bulb. Great company greatest customer service. I will buy Epson forever.I have 1000 hours on the new bulb with no issues.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpolachak*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22179976
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 since Nov of 2010. It is still the greatest home theater purchase i have ever made. I had epson replace the bulb at 1700 hours because it was dimmer. They asked no questions and sent me a new bulb. I just said it wasn't as bright as when i bought it. They told me it should last 4k hours. Then they just sent me the new bulb. Great company greatest customer service. I will buy Epson forever.I have 1000 hours on the new bulb with no issues.



That's good to hear!


----------



## JonnyVee

I'm a noob. Just got my 8350 to replace my 50" Samsung plasma. I'm completely amazed. This thing rocks. I've got a 95" screen for $1000 and it looks almost as good as a plasma ... and I'm projecting onto a light beige wall that I haven't painted yet.


Anyways, I need help. I'm going to paint the wall with Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Satin but I don't know if I should be adding a gray tint or just leave the paint without tint as per the recommendation at Projector Central [= http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm][/ ]. And then if I do add a gray tint ... What tint?!


My setup is as follows:


1. The projector is about 10' back from the screen and seating will be 11' from the screen ... or less when the kiddies are watching from the floor in front of the couch.

2. My screen will be roughly 95".

3. I have light control and I can and will be watching in the dark.

4. Side and back walls are light beige. Ceiling is white. So far, the light reflecting on the ceiling does not bother me. Painting these walls and the ceiling are not an option ... My wife was kind enough to get let me get the projector ...

5. Screen wall will be dark redish/orange outside the screen area.

6. So far I've been using the "Natural" color setting.

7. I'll be adding a flat black MDF 2" border around the screen.

8. Room is 11' x 30', but the viewing section of the room is 11' x 13' and the seating nd screen is setup on the short distance. So there is a 20' section of room on our right side, but it will be dark.


So shoud i add tint or just leave the Pro Classis paint untinted. If I should tint, which gray?


I've seen a few comments about Unique Gray, put the swatch looks so purple. Olympus White (SW 6253) and Lazy Gray ( SW 6254) both look to be more neutral, but I haven't seen any comments from people. The Unique Gray has an LRV of 59, while Olympus White is 68 and Lazy Gray is 54.


I also just came across Gray Screen (SW 7171) which has an LRV of 59.


Thoughts?


----------



## RTROSE

^^^^Check the DIY screen forums.....There is a wealth of info there on DIY painted screen options.


Regards,


RTROSE


pm me and I will give you my .02 worth if you want.


----------



## JonnyVee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22181777
> 
> 
> ^^^^Check the DIY screen forums.....There is a wealth of info there on DIY painted screen options.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> RTROSE
> 
> pm me and I will give you my .02 worth if you want.



Thanks. I'll dive in there and see what I can find. I was just posting to this thread to see if any 8350 owners had any thoughts about grey versus white based on personal experiance.


----------



## Zlatty

Stupid question, but might as well ask. With the 8350 would I be able to have it on a shelf where the iris is slightly above the screen?


See pic below:
 


Right now I have the Epson 3010 and I am fed up with it.


Thanks!


----------



## ncarty97

My setup is similar and I have no problems. I think my 8350 is right at the top of the screen.


----------



## Zlatty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ncarty97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22184543
> 
> 
> My setup is similar and I have no problems. I think my 8350 is right at the top of the screen.



Fantastic. I looked through the manual and it has seem to have more lens shift than the BenQ W7000. Shoot, any lens shift is better than keystoning that the 3010 attempts.


----------



## kevinmscs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zlatty*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22184572
> 
> 
> Fantastic. I looked through the manual and it has seem to have more lens shift than the BenQ W7000. Shoot, any lens shift is better than keystoning that the 3010 attempts.



I assume you need to "position" the 3010 - not keytoning it. Be sure to research on the 8350 to see if you like it.


----------



## FUN4ME




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130851
> 
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.
> 
> Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.
> 
> Good luck!




Thanks for the tutorial.

For anyone considering doing this I recommend doing it.

It is easy and it worked for me.

I dont think that removing the case will void the warranty.


I did not notice any "void if seal is broken" stickers anywhere, maybe they are hidden.



I guess if you are worried about a warranty issue just send it back and hope you get a good replacement.


----------



## Zlatty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinmscs*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22184682
> 
> 
> I assume you need to "position" the 3010 - not keytoning it. Be sure to research on the 8350 to see if you like it.



I'm actually returning the 3010. I tried gaming with it and the lag was unbelievable. I thought I could live with it based on some reviews, but for $100 less the 8350 seems to be the right choice for me.


It should be in today and I can do a side by side


----------



## Toe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zlatty*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22186753
> 
> 
> I'm actually returning the 3010. I tried gaming with it and the lag was unbelievable. I thought I could live with it based on some reviews, but for $100 less the 8350 seems to be the right choice for me.
> 
> It should be in today and I can do a side by side



Curious to hear your side by side gaming impressions. I have a RS45 that has ~80ms of lag which is similar to the 3010 and I am curious if there would be a real world noticeable difference between 80ms of the RS45 and 18ms of the 8350.


----------



## troasted

I might be a little late to the party, but. I just purchased this PJ last night and calibrated it right out of the box. I just replaced a small 720p LED Pico PJ. I have this baby shining on a 92in manual pull-down screen from about 13ft away and I have to say this is the most amazing PJ that I have ever seen. Just watched Battle: LA on Blu-Ray last night. It was amazing. Good blacks, incredibly sharp, colors are amazing, and very bright. Couldn't be happier. If anyone is thinking about buying this, stop thinking. Just get it. Best home theater buy of my short 18 years of life.


----------



## kevinmscs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zlatty*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22186753
> 
> 
> I'm actually returning the 3010. I tried gaming with it and the lag was unbelievable. I thought I could live with it based on some reviews, but for $100 less the 8350 seems to be the right choice for me.
> 
> It should be in today and I can do a side by side



Understood your complaints but I thought the 8350, if anything, would be similar to the 3010 in many ways....


----------



## srauly

I had the 3010 for a short trial period, and ended up returning it for the 8350. The 3D was kinda neat, but also not the most comfortable to watch, and I thought I saw some strange artifacts (ghosting, I guess), but I could have probably dealt with that. In some respects it almost seemed too bright when watching 2D, but I don't know that I would have a problem with that either, since I could always add a filter to tone that down if needed. In some respects, you could chalk it up to me being lazy, but I ultimately decided that I wanted some lens shift so that I didn't need to move my current mount (which I think would have also required that I drop it lower). And, with no shift at all, it all just seemed like it would be a royal pain to get it centered onto the screen just perfectly right. And I was thinking about upgrading to a bigger screen, so then I'd have to go through that whole exercise *again*. No thanks. IMO, having a liberal amount of lens shift and zoom is a wonderful, wonderful thing, that just makes life so much easier. It's a shame that they charge so much more for the 5010.


----------



## kevinmscs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22187385
> 
> 
> I had the 3010 for a short trial period, and ended up returning it for the 8350. The 3D was kinda neat, but also not the most comfortable to watch, and I thought I saw some strange artifacts (ghosting, I guess), but I could have probably dealt with that. In some respects it almost seemed too bright when watching 2D, but I don't know that I would have a problem with that either, since I could always add a filter to tone that down if needed. In some respects, you could chalk it up to me being lazy, but I ultimately decided that I wanted some lens shift so that I didn't need to move my current mount (which I think would have also required that I drop it lower). And, with no shift at all, it all just seemed like it would be a royal pain to get it centered onto the screen just perfectly right. And I was thinking about upgrading to a bigger screen, so then I'd have to go through that whole exercise *again*. No thanks. IMO, having a liberal amount of lens shift and zoom is a wonderful, wonderful thing, that just makes life so much easier. It's a shame that they charge so much more for the 5010.



True. Lens shift is necessary. I just wish i didnt read about all the trouble the 8350 owners have had... It would be a perfect match for me. Now i'm in the decision making stage for over 2 weeks !!!


----------



## Zlatty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinmscs*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22187338
> 
> 
> Understood your complaints but I thought the 8350, if anything, would be similar to the 3010 in many ways....



Well the 8350 took about 3 mins to set up. Lens shift is awesome and I was up and running without a problem. The 3010 is more quiet, and compliments the room quite well. The only thing that I wish it has is the little zip clip that holds the HDMI cable firmly attached. Still though, gaming on the 8350 has been a great experience. Max Payne 3 looks phenomenal.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22186876
> 
> 
> Curious to hear your side by side gaming impressions. I have a RS45 that has ~80ms of lag which is similar to the 3010 and I am curious if there would be a real world noticeable difference between 80ms of the RS45 and 18ms of the 8350.



The 8350, as stated above, has been running games flawlessly. Even with ambient light, I am able to run in eco mode and still am able to see. Anyways, everything looks as good as a regular flat pannel. If you game--even occasionally--8350is a good choice.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinmscs*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22187417
> 
> 
> True. Lens shift is necessary. I just wish i didnt read about all the trouble the 8350 owners have had... It would be a perfect match for me. Now i'm in the decision making stage for over 2 weeks !!!



Buy it from a reputable place and have the ability to return it if something goes bad. I bought both of my from Amazon and had no problems. If this one does not work I'm going to look into the BenQ W600 I believe. So far, all of the issues I had with the 3010 are remedied by the awesomeness of the 8350.


----------



## Damien701

Question guys. The power button on my remote doesn't work anymore. All the other buttons are fine but the power button doesn't work so I have to power on and off manually myself which is a pain. So a couple of questions.


Can I get another remote? I assume it uses some sort of code to sync up to the projector itself.


And where can I get it? Would Epson be willing to ship me a new remote do you think? I've had a look around a few other websites with no joy. Keep In mind I am in Ireland so somewhere that ships internationally is a must. Thanks for any help you can give me guys. I really appreciate it.


Btw I've had my 8350 since launch and love it. Use it constantly and just started on my third bulb .


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22191412
> 
> 
> Question guys. The power button on my remote doesn't work anymore. All the other buttons are fine but the power button doesn't work so I have to power on and off manually myself which is a pain. So a couple of questions.
> 
> Can I get another remote? I assume it uses some sort of code to sync up to the projector itself.
> 
> And where can I get it? Would Epson be willing to ship me a new remote do you think? I've had a look around a few other websites with no joy. Keep In mind I am in Ireland so somewhere that ships internationally is a must. Thanks for any help you can give me guys. I really appreciate it.
> 
> Btw I've had my 8350 since launch and love it. Use it constantly and just started on my third bulb .



I'd imagine that the remote is covered under the warranty, so I'd check into that first. Otherwise, it may be time to look into a universal remote like Logitech's Harmony line.


----------



## Damien701

I took your advice and ordered a Harmony 300i. Forgive my newbiness but I've never used a universal remote before. I assume it works on some sort of code that sync's up to the device and that each manufacturer has its own code? does it come with a manual listing these codes or are they available somewhere online?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

You'll LOVE the 300i -- I got mine as a Newegg Refurb for under $20, in fact, I bought 2 of them. They program via USB cable and their Logitech website. Their website keeps your configuration and you simply update your device profiles on their site and resync the remote. Sure, the 300i is a VERY BASIC model, but does all you need! As far as the Epson, I placed the Power OFF button onto the numeral "0" so I don't have to confirm. I also set the START button (top left macro) to power on my AVR set to HDMI-1, Power the Epson, set to HDMI-2, and power my Windows MCE SE (which I've placed Win-1 onto its Power button to open my MediaPortal application I've "pinned" to the TaskBar).


----------



## OSUDesi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22194043
> 
> 
> I took your advice and ordered a Harmony 300i. Forgive my newbiness but I've never used a universal remote before. I assume it works on some sort of code that sync's up to the device and that each manufacturer has its own code? does it come with a manual listing these codes or are they available somewhere online?
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Harmony remotes are actually programmed via a USB cable using your computer. Very simple to setup. All you need are the model numbers of the devices you want to control and off you go!


----------



## scotty562

Hey guys. I've had my Epson 8350 since two Black Friday's ago. It just recently started going black for a few seconds and then turning back on. I've attached a video. I'm trying to figure out what's causing the issue. Before it's only ever done this when my furnace kicks on, but last night it did it roughly ever 2 minutes. I did just put a 12,000 btu AC unit in the other room. I should also note that the projector doesn't actually turn off. It just kind of goes black for a few seconds.


----------



## OSUDesi

Turn the furnace off (or the motor for the fan) and the A/C off. See if the problem still exists. If the blinking disappears, then it sounds like you need to add a separate circuit to your fuse box for your A/V equipment.


----------



## scotty562

Would a AVR do something similar? I can get one of those off Amazon for $25.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

At first blush it seems the power to the PJ is not stable, possibly being effected by the surge your A/C is driving. A UPS for the PJ would isolate it from the house IF this is what's happening. Have you any other display connected and is it effected the same? Does the PJ's fan sound "dim" as well when this happens? Do you have a meter? You should check the voltage at the outlet and rectify this immediately -- voltage variations could damage the Epson! Personally I've always had a UPS dedicated to my PJ - for any line variations, power outages and lamp longevity (allowing the fan to cool down the unit in a power failure event).


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22191412
> 
> 
> Btw I've had my 8350 since launch and love it. Use it constantly and just started on my third bulb .


Out of curiosity, how many hours were you able to get out of each of those bulbs?


----------



## srauly

Has anyone done any extensive testing with the Auto Iris in use versus turned off completely? I moved the projector to my living room recently (my new theater room) and it's now located much closer to my head, and I must admit that the grinding noise of the iris has become bothersome. I think I can probably live with it while watching a movie, but if it doesn't add *that* much value anyway, I'm contemplating just shutting it off altogether.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22197148
> 
> 
> Has anyone done any extensive testing with the Auto Iris in use versus turned off completely? I moved the projector to my living room recently (my new theater room) and it's now located much closer to my head, and I must admit that the grinding noise of the iris has become bothersome. I think I can probably live with it while watching a movie, but if it doesn't add *that* much value anyway, I'm contemplating just shutting it off altogether.



No extensive testing, I did play with the auto Iris on two of them I installed. I found the Iris in this projector fairly useless compared to others, where the difference was much more apparent disengaging the iris. I don't think you'll miss much not using it.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Funny you're mentioning the Auto Iris function 'cause my PJ has been complaining about it for several months now. I'll power it on and get a BLUE SCREEN message:
 

I've owned this unit since Late October and this occurs about twice a month - power on, message, power off, wait until fan stops, power on (to reset the Red indicator), power on and all is well. Given my earlier post about the slight convergance issue and now this message I contacted Epson. Initially they mentioned deactivating the Auto Iris function to avoid this error -- WHAT??? I'd rather just have this one replaced if it's not working correctly! They're gonna replace it and used my Credit Card to assure payment on their cross-shipment.


They don't say whether it'll be a new, or refurbished unit they'll ship and if it works better than the one I have I don't really mind... but how dare they "reserve" some $1,400 on the chance they actually send me a _refurbished_ unit that they sell on their site for under $1,000


They'll send it Monday on 2-Business day shipment...

*Of those of you using the Epson warranty, do you get NEW or Refurbished units and how would you know?*


----------



## srauly

I wonder if there's a correlation between the amount of grinding noise the iris makes and the frequency of people getting this error. FWIW, I've never gotten the error message (yet), but as I posted yesterday, the auto iris is awfully noisy. I'm not sure how it works physically, but I'm guessing it's a mechanical part that is opening/closing frequently and fast, so perhaps it's not a shocker that it might be one of the first things to fail. Anyone know if the 3010 (or other newer Epsons) suffer from noisy/failing irises? I'd be curious to know if they've made any design improvements here.


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JonnyVee*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22180881
> 
> 
> I'm a noob. Just got my 8350 to replace my 50" Samsung plasma. I'm completely amazed. This thing rocks. I've got a 95" screen for $1000 and it looks almost as good as a plasma ... and I'm projecting onto a light beige wall that I haven't painted yet.
> 
> Anyways, I need help. I'm going to paint the wall with Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Satin but I don't know if I should be adding a gray tint or just leave the paint without tint as per the recommendation at Projector Central [= http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm][/ ]. And then if I do add a gray tint ... What tint?!


There a thread somewhere here about using "Silverscreen" tinted paint from Lowes. I got it and painted a piece of sanded/filled luan. It works great. It's a very light gray. I've read true gray will hurt the contrast/brightness. I know that I'm very, very happy. This projector is the cat's arse. I blow people away regularly when then see my 95" HD picture. There is NO better bang for your HD buck than the 8350. Get yourself some quality HD content, invite some friends over, and enjoy the sound of jaws dropping on the floor.


----------



## Toe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liveinxs*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7080#post_21992438
> 
> 
> That's what I am thinking, this guy probably doesn't have it mounted right.
> 
> 
> 
> After all it is a manual focus, so there's no way it could go out of focus on its own.
> 
> 
> 
> Either it's getting bumped , someone is messing with it, or it's not securely mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> End of story.



Not entirely true. You can have a securely mounted projector that nobody messes with and does not get bumped go out of focus due to LFE pressure if you have a lot of sub output. Every manual lens shift projector I have owned I have had to pad up so the lens stayed in place and in focus due the LFE output in my room.


Just got a 10% off coupon in my email and am thinking of getting a refurb 8350 as a gaming/backup projector. My RS45 is getting repaired and I am looking to sell it soon anyway and maybe go with a new JVC in Dec depending on what is announced at Cedia so I need something to use during these 3-4 months, and I need a lower lag projector for gaming since the 45 is averaging ~80 which seems a bit to high. Is $900 a good deal for a refurb 8350? Any better deals out there? I remember reading the 8350 only had about 18ms of lag which should be a nice improvement for gaming vs the 80 on the RS45.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22197148
> 
> 
> Has anyone done any extensive testing with the Auto Iris in use versus turned off completely? I moved the projector to my living room recently (my new theater room) and it's now located much closer to my head, and I must admit that the grinding noise of the iris has become bothersome. I think I can probably live with it while watching a movie, but if it doesn't add *that* much value anyway, I'm contemplating just shutting it off altogether.



I've only had my 8350 a few months but I cannot hear much noise at all from the Auto Iris, maybe I have one that is exceptionally quiet. I'm sure I have it set to be on and the picture looks great.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22200173
> 
> 
> 
> Every manual lens shift projector I have owned I have had to pad up so the lens stayed in place and in focus due the LFE output in my room.


Thanks for confirming your experience.

 

I've never had this problem (so never had a chance to actually try what I suggest). However I have suggested padding the lens slightly to a couple of forum members. Others commented that it should not have to be done and the projectors were somehow defective.


----------



## Toe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22200450
> 
> 
> Thanks for confirming your experience.
> 
> 
> I've never had this problem (so never had a chance to actually try what I suggest). However I have suggested padding the lens slightly to a couple of forum members. Others commented that it should not have to be done and the projectors were somehow defective.



I highly doubt the projectors are defective. There are so many variables from one setup to another and there can even be slight variances in lens stability from one unit to another that it would be hard to place blame on the unit unless it was obviously unusually loose as far as the lens goes. Some people have more powerful subs vs others and/or the projector might be located in an area where a lot of the LFE gathers such as a back wall for a shelf mount or even near a different room boundary (where bass commonly gathers) such as the ceiling. These are all more plausible explanations why one person might have lens shake/movement while someone else does not. Padding the lens on a manual lens projector can help out a lot. A motorized lens solves this issue for most as well (it did for me with both my RS40 and RS45), but you cant expect projectors in this price range to have that.


Does the lens feel pretty stable in general though on the 8350? Does the lens lock seem to help at all?


----------



## Damien701




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22198301
> 
> 
> Funny you're mentioning the Auto Iris function 'cause my PJ has been complaining about it for several months now. I'll power it on and get a BLUE SCREEN message:
> 
> 
> I've owned this unit since Late October and this occurs about twice a month - power on, message, power off, wait until fan stops, power on (to reset the Red indicator), power on and all is well. Given my earlier post about the slight convergance issue and now this message I contacted Epson. Initially they mentioned deactivating the Auto Iris function to avoid this error -- WHAT??? I'd rather just have this one replaced if it's not working correctly! They're gonna replace it and used my Credit Card to assure payment on their cross-shipment.
> 
> They don't say whether it'll be a new, or refurbished unit they'll ship and if it works better than the one I have I don't really mind... but how dare they "reserve" some $1,400 on the chance they actually send me a _refurbished_ unit that they sell on their site for under $1,000
> 
> They'll send it Monday on 2-Business day shipment...
> *Of those of you using the Epson warranty, do you get NEW or Refurbished units and how would you know?*



I get this message every couple of months too and at this stage I just leave the auto iris off. If I'm watching an action movie I might switch it on for a couple of hours but generally it's off. It's not noticable enough during regular viewing to risk a problem.... for me anyway. I'm not in the states anymore so returning a faulty projector just isn't an option. Not worth the risk.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

To reply about the question if Epson gives you a new or refurbished. They say if you have a return( i believe its 30 days someone correct me if im wrong ) that you get a "new" unit and anything after that it is a refurbished unit. From my experience with returning FOUR units within 30 days they are all refurbs. I had one that screws rattled around inside and came out back to terrible convergence to one where the color scheme was a brownish. I ended up just taking it back to bestbuy after playing roullette and exchanging there for a true new unit. Best of luck on returning. Epson is terrific at giving you a replacement overnight but the quality control on those units are terrible.


----------



## smartymarty

Hi everyone, I'm really interested in getting the Epson 8350 and using it in a very dark room on a 120'' Elite Screen. The primary use would be for Blu-Ray and DVD's. Right now I'm using a 42'' 1080p Samsung LCD TV with great contrast / color / sharpness.


I've never seen the projector in action in person so I wanted to ask the experts - -


Will Blu-Ray still feel like Blu-Ray at 120'' with the Epson 8350? How bad are the black levels when the lights are all off in the dark? It seems too good to be true that such an affordable projector could produce such a large sharp image, though I'd love it to be true.


Thanks!


----------



## lespurgeon

It will be as good as the smaller screens in whatever multi-plex is near you. The 8350 replaced a ~2004 standard def LCD projector in my living room earlier this year, and it is pretty amazing for costing 1/2 of what I paid in 2004.


----------



## Moxified

So I'm on replacement #6 this year. I just received it about a week ago. It has a blue dust blob and 2 VERY bright frozen pixels in the center of the screen. This is probably my third "brand new" projector. The first three were referbs and were bad (first one the zoom was frozen, second one something was rattling around inside, third one had dust blobs). Then they sent me 3 "brand new" units. These came in a retail box and look brand new so far as I can tell. The first one was good for a while but then it developed a weird chopping and pixelating issue. Hard to explain but kinda like MPEG. The next one had an auto iris error when I first started it but never again. It had very light dust blobs out of the box. I decided I was tired of it and lived with it for a few months. That is until a friend of mine was like... WTF are those spots on your screen. I was livid. SO, that brings me to my latest which I have had for a week with the blue blobs and frozen pixels.


I'm not sure what to do! I'm sure they will send me another one but what's the point? Anybody have suggestions? I'm heavily contemplating getting the replacement and selling it as brand new in box never opened on eBay but frankly, I hate to do that to somebody.


Anybody ever had luck getting their money back or upgrading to something else?


FTR, I loved this projector. Just can't deal with the dust problem.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smartymarty*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22212389
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm really interested in getting the Epson 8350 and using it in a very dark room on a 120'' Elite Screen. The primary use would be for Blu-Ray and DVD's. Right now I'm using a 42'' 1080p Samsung LCD TV with great contrast / color / sharpness.
> 
> I've never seen the projector in action in person so I wanted to ask the experts - -
> 
> Will Blu-Ray still feel like Blu-Ray at 120'' with the Epson 8350? How bad are the black levels when the lights are all off in the dark? It seems too good to be true that such an affordable projector could produce such a large sharp image, though I'd love it to be true.
> 
> Thanks!



I never saw a projector in a proper setup until my friend got a Panasonic AE7000 and a AT Seymour screen. I was blown away. I knew I wanted to get something similar, but I wasn't willing to pay nearly 3 grand for a projector. After several months of pouring over all the AVS projector threads, I decided on a 8350. Today, I know I made the right decision. For reference, we both had the same 65" Toshiba HDTV prior to getting projectors.


I don't have much reference to other projector black levels, but I would put the 8350 on par with my previous Toshiba CRT rear projector. If you go with a 16 x 9 screen size, you will definitely want masking for 2.35:1 material. From my somewhat limited experience so far, black levels seem to be as much dependent on the source material as the projector. I watch probably 90% Dish Network and 10% Blu-ray. I've noticed a few shows on Dish where black scenes seem to have a haze over the blacks, but on other shows, the blacks are great. Blu-ray looks awesome. I just watched the movie, The Fall (2006) and it was incredible. PS3 games on the 8350 look great. I can completely darken my room, and that's definitely the way to go, but the image looks surprisingly good even with background lighting on. My screen is 106" and I use the same AT Seymour Center Stage material my friend has. I made my own screen.


----------



## MississippiMan

The levels of Black rendering the 8350 can produce are tied directly to 3 things.


1. Screen Size

2. Screen Color / gain

3. Room lighting and the degree of a Room's surface reflectivity.


A projector such as the Epson 5010, which starts out with 200K:1 Contrast and 2400 lumens can both produce better blacks out of the box, but also work to combat detrimental aspects of a viewing environment. A "Blacker Black" driven by a higher level of lumens can outgun reasonable levels of incoming ambient or reflected light. Use the right Screen surface and that can improve immeasurably.


The 8350 comes along with 2000 lumen and 50K:1 Contrast. While these numbers are nothing to sneeze at, as *curtlots* mentioned, the type of Content shown has much to do with things as you see them.


Take a ****** like any Underworld flick. In absolute darkness and if there is no adverse reflections off the wall / ceiling tied to the PJs image output, the resulting depth of blacks and shadow detail is excellent. But introduce light reflecting off an adjoining surface, and any real degree of ambient light directed toward the screen (...if it's a matte White surface...) and blacks will start to "Brown-out" because the 50K:1 contrast just cannot compete for prevalence.


However, when a Screen's size is kept under 100" diagonal and throw distance within the lower 20% of the distance needed to optain such a size, there exists more leeway. Add to that equation a High Contrast Gray Screen surface, and things improve considerably. Use a HC Gray with 1.2 gain or more and things can get crazily better.


No Projector in the under $1400.00 range can ever be construed as being something for every instance or situation....all by itself. But strive to improve it's surrounding environment, as well as optimize the Screen's potential to augment Black levels as well as render Colors and Whites effectively, and a PJ like the 8350 can astound you with it's performance.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7230#post_22145914
> 
> 
> I'm on my fourth 8350 in 8 months and this is starting to feel like owning an MG. When it's running well, it can turn some heads, but alas, she has mechanical problems.
> 
> Hitting the power button results in rising anxiety as the seconds drag waiting for the EPSON logo.
> 
> My first had convergence issues, and my next two had the auto iris issue. Oddly, the auto-iris issue on my current 8350 started happening last month and now it appears that the bulb is dead after less than 500 hours. This could be because I've had to turn it off and on several times in an attempt to clear the auto iris issue.
> 
> The real shame is that this model had absolutely perfect convergence and no blobs or color issues!
> 
> Epson, as always, had outstanding customer service, and is sending me another one.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22198301
> 
> 
> Funny you're mentioning the Auto Iris function 'cause my PJ has been complaining about it for several months now. I'll power it on and get a BLUE SCREEN message:



When I had my 8350, I would get the Auto Iris error about once a month.

The best way to clear it is:


1. Power down the projector.

Let the projector shutdown on it's own. **NEVER unplug the power or use the main power button on the rear to shut it down**


2. Unplug the power cable.

3. Wait 5 minutes.

4. Plug power cable back in and start projector.


This would clear up the issue for about 4-6 weeks.


If this works for you, I would just ask Epson for a new bulb since you have a unit with good convergence.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Damien701*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22205618
> 
> 
> I get this message every couple of months too and at this stage I just leave the auto iris off. If I'm watching an action movie I might switch it on for a couple of hours but generally it's off. It's not noticable enough during regular viewing to risk a problem.... for me anyway. I'm not in the states anymore so returning a faulty projector just isn't an option. Not worth the risk.


I tried turning it off and the issue still occurred.

I believe when the unit powers up, it does an iris test(you can hear it on power up), if it fails, I believe that's when the error occurs.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

All this talk about Auto Iris, how it "sounds" and the error we're getting yet nobody mentioned how it effects the image. In fact, I've had mine OFF since my seating being under the PJ in my 125"-screened Theatre room, I can hear it jumbling around. Moreover, even on a static scene, the brightness has 'shifts' and you get distracted by this. And, YES, I've tried both Normal and High-Speed Iris settings -- I prefer OFF. This makes for an interesting point in that the PJ goes through its self-test routine, checking the Iris function at power up before it displays the image. In retrospect, when the CS rep at Epson stated we could set it OFF, I was already there!


My replacement came in a "refurbished" Epson box and is a real good unit! Convergence is right on (at least there's no more color 'hint' when displaying text), it's very quiet and only took me a few minutes to swap them out. More to come...


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Moxified*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22214873
> 
> 
> So I'm on replacement #6 this year. I just received it about a week ago. It has a blue dust blob and 2 VERY bright frozen pixels in the center of the screen. This is probably my third "brand new" projector. The first three were referbs and were bad (first one the zoom was frozen, second one something was rattling around inside, third one had dust blobs). Then they sent me 3 "brand new" units. These came in a retail box and look brand new so far as I can tell. The first one was good for a while but then it developed a weird chopping and pixelating issue. Hard to explain but kinda like MPEG. The next one had an auto iris error when I first started it but never again. It had very light dust blobs out of the box. I decided I was tired of it and lived with it for a few months. That is until a friend of mine was like... WTF are those spots on your screen. I was livid. SO, that brings me to my latest which I have had for a week with the blue blobs and frozen pixels.
> 
> I'm not sure what to do! I'm sure they will send me another one but what's the point? Anybody have suggestions? I'm heavily contemplating getting the replacement and selling it as brand new in box never opened on eBay but frankly, I hate to do that to somebody.
> 
> Anybody ever had luck getting their money back or upgrading to something else?
> 
> FTR, I loved this projector. Just can't deal with the dust problem.



My very patient, polite and persistent wife was able to get our money back from Epson. We went through 6 units from Xmas 2011 until this past June. BTW I upgraded to the BenQ W7000 and couldn't be happier.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Moxified*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22214873
> 
> 
> So I'm on replacement #6 this year. I just received it about a week ago. It has a blue dust blob and 2 VERY bright frozen pixels in the center of the screen. This is probably my third "brand new" projector. The first three were referbs and were bad (first one the zoom was frozen, second one something was rattling around inside, third one had dust blobs). Then they sent me 3 "brand new" units. These came in a retail box and look brand new so far as I can tell. The first one was good for a while but then it developed a weird chopping and pixelating issue. Hard to explain but kinda like MPEG. The next one had an auto iris error when I first started it but never again. It had very light dust blobs out of the box. I decided I was tired of it and lived with it for a few months. That is until a friend of mine was like... WTF are those spots on your screen. I was livid. SO, that brings me to my latest which I have had for a week with the blue blobs and frozen pixels.
> 
> I'm not sure what to do! I'm sure they will send me another one but what's the point? Anybody have suggestions? I'm heavily contemplating getting the replacement and selling it as brand new in box never opened on eBay but frankly, I hate to do that to somebody.
> 
> Anybody ever had luck getting their money back or upgrading to something else?
> 
> FTR, I loved this projector. Just can't deal with the dust problem.



I would depending on time frame there would be a lemon law type of thing


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slennon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22220676
> 
> 
> My very patient, polite and persistent wife was able to get our money back from Epson. We went through 6 units from Xmas 2011 until this past June. BTW I upgraded to the BenQ W7000 and couldn't be happier.



At twice the price I would hope the BenQ has somthing to offer over the Epson. So far I have had no issues (purchased in April) and am very happy with the 8350, definite upgrade over my previous 720 dlp unit.


----------



## trader14

hey guys - just got our 8350 and put it in our basement and just adore it. we are using the favi 120" electric screen which was in our budget($200) and pictures from dvd and netflix streaming just look outstanding. Tonight we are watching Mission Impossible ghost protocol and while the picture kicks but it doesn't fill up the screen (there is about 10" on each side). Is there some settings or something that can be done for the different ways movies present themselves so we can fill the screen? According to amazon the aspect is 1.85:1 not sure if that is important. thanks and cheers!


----------



## 42Plasmaman

Are you using hdmi for the connection?

Is the player directly connected to the projector or through a AVR?


See page 27 about aspect ratio.
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## Steven Kelley

Hey all. I've been a Epson 8350 owner since November 2011. As of right now i'll be on my *4th replacement.*

*Connections:*

My Epson 8350 Projector is connected via HDMI cable to my Pioneer VSX-921-K A/V receiver. The reciever sources are connected to: MCE Win7 PC, Samsung Bluray player, Xbox360

*Backstory*

Just 15 days of use on my 8350 I got my very first "_auto iris error_" and received a brand new unit from Epson support a few days later. After 6 months of us, in May I again received the "auto iris error" message.
 


My replacement 8350 was a refurbished model despite the Epson support agent stating I will recieve a brand new unit, however this refurbished unit had dust on the actual LCD inside the light tunnel.
 


Epson replaced this model the next day with a brand new 8350 which just today gave me a double blinking red lights. After several restart attempts it started, than followed by "error in the Epson Cinema filter, contact your nearest epson service center.
 


So tomorrow a lvl3 tech support is calling me, since this will be my 4th replacement. I'm going to try and request for a new model upgrade, to try and get out of this 8350 infinite loop of death.


I'm so fed up with the 8350 it's not even funny.


Here's a few photos of my theater setup:
 

123" painted screen using DYI projector paint

 

Media center with all my components.

 

Sitting area.


----------



## joejoe267

my seats look like the same material as yours.


----------



## joejoe267

like others i have a 7.1 Onkyo with LG bluray, great setup!


----------



## Groundzero1v

Hi, I just sjpkimmed thru this thread to looks for someone with my similar problem....

I also have the auto iris grinding noise but I can live with that,,,

My real problem is none of my HDMI inputs would work. It just says not supported and dashes on the kHz on the bottom left corner.


It worked fine last week and I did not do any changes at all and now it just says not supported on both hdmi 1 And 2. I tried my MacBook pro and my asus o player on both hdmi inputs, no change in the projector screen at all. But whe I hooked up my camera in the yellow video Input, it works just fine, does anyone have any ideas? I also reset the memory, I just did not do the reset all function since I dont want to lose my bulb hours, any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Steven Kelley

Update:

I talked to one of the Protector Specialists and he said the Auto Iris error, and the dust issue with the green orbs are a "known issue" in the 8100, and 8350 but they solved those issues in the 3100 3D projector. Even though they have faulty issues wih the 8 series they still wouldn't upgrade me, so I demanded a full refund, and finally got it. I'm in the process of getting the Panasonic PT-AR100U. I'm done with Epson and their horrible products.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22245878
> 
> 
> I'm done with Epson and their horrible products.



Some might add to that "Good Riddance"....but there might be some question as to what direction that comment should be directed.










While anyone is deserving of the right of stating how they personally feel about a product, or it's related service, vitriolic comments that are a blanket "across the board" label of a company whose products and service has been heralded as being exceptional by far more people than who have complained to the contrary only shows a lack of either patience or the ability to address an issue to achieve a viable resolution. But lets examine that premise.


You received a "New replacement" direct from Epson when the first one failed after 15 days. It worked for a full 6 months before an issue arose, and _under Epson's policy_, it was replaced by a Refurb. (...because under that policy the Rep could "NOT" himself authorize" a new replacement ...) That Unit had two issues "out of the Box". After what was undoubtedly a somewhat heated discussion, they did in fact agree to send you another new Unit. the very next day. (...that is rare indeed...you were an exception...) Unfortunately it too came with a defect within it's Light Engine's processor. So you asked for and got a full refund "after' having ?demanded? an upgrade to another of their horrible products. (...only the "point of Sale" could / would ever do such..and never after 8 months....) Somehow I think all that "exceptionally responsible" effort and forbearance by Epson cannot be overlooked seeing as many companies would never consider doing remotely such.


Steven, as a Custom Design Installer who has installed a slew of 8350s (20+) without a single solitary issue (...so I do feel for you and others who have run the service gauntlet...) as well as 3 Panny PT-AR100U's, one of which whose lens shift was jammed tight "out of the Box" (...and I was offered only a Repair...not replacement...) , and another having a 3" hairline crack on the right side of the PJ's housing (...the "Seller" replaced that one "New"....) I gotta relate to you that no matter where you go, or what Make & Model PJ you choose ($5000.00+ JVCs give people fits too....) you run some degree of risk. How you....and the Mfg handle such issues that arise is really what's important.


In any case, I realize that it's your situation, and yours only that matters most to you. However I do feel you not giving a responsible company, nor it's product...one that has a veritable multitude of very happy owners, a fair shake with your comments. Good luck with the Panny. For what it's worth, it does deliver a great image, but as your gonna see, it's not really as exceptional as the Epson 8350's. Close...but due to it's increased lumen output it's contrast does not live up to it's reported specification.


----------



## Steven Kelley

Thanks for responding. I believe there's a serious issue with the 8350, especially after 4th replacement. I've doubted myself several times thinking I mounted it wrong or did something myself to cause the issue. Again the Epson specialist explained to me that the auto iris error is a very common problem, and so is the green orb dusts due to the light tunnel not being air tight. I'm not disagreeing with you on their excellent top notch support, it's fantastic. They did an amazing job, I just wish their 8350's were as good as their support, i'd be a very happy customer if it just worked without problems. I can understand 2 or maybe 3 issues but 4 means the product is flawed (to me) and the specialist confirmed that.


Thanks for the advice on the Panasonic. I still haven't purchased the Panasonic PT-AR100U, if you recommend any other 1080p projectors in that price range please let me know. I don't require 3D.


----------



## MississippiMan

A Panny 7000 (...or 4000 iffin' you can find one...) would be among the best choices for a controlled light environment. The 7000 is a nice piece of work....but isn't in the range of pricing.


Not needing 3D I'd avoid the Optoma choices in that price range . Look at Mitsubishi offerings instead. Many swear by them...some quite profusely in fact.







But that's better than swearing "at them" as I'm sure you'll tend to agree.


----------



## Steven Kelley

Thanks.

So I know what LCD projectors can offer but what about DLP projectors? I know the only side effect to DLP could be the rainbow effect but is that the only issue and is it annoying? Don't believe i've ever seen the rainbow effect on a DLP tv's.


----------



## funstuff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22249038
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> So I know what LCD projectors can offer but what about DLP projectors? I know the only side effect to DLP could be the rainbow effect but is that the only issue and is it annoying? Don't believe i've ever seen the rainbow effect on a DLP tv's.



I'm new to projectors... bought the Mitsubishi HC4000, which is DLP. I saw it in a showroom alongside a Panasonic AR100u and there was no contest; the HC4000 killed it unless you added a lot of ambient light or played something really bright like an animated film.


However, I got the thing home and had totally underestimated the RBE and how annoying it can be. I have taken some measures to lessen it or 'program it out' via contrast settings etc. After just toughing through it for a while, I can honestly say the rainbows are fading. Not sure if that is my brain getting used to the effect, the settings, the lamp dimming naturally or some other variable.


The HC4000 has an amazing picture, comes in around the same price as the 8350 and has very little in the way of known problems. However, I'd definitely suggest you try to see one in action or do more RBE research on your own before pulling the trigger on any DLP. In the very least, buy from someplace with a good return policy.


----------



## Archaea

MississippiMan, you can no longer say none of your clients have errors on the 8350. Carps gone through a half dozen and he is one of your clients. He's one of my buddies, and my fourth 8350 just failed this week. Onto the fifth for me. That's five in six months. That taints my opinion pretty strongly against epson as well, since both carp and I have had so many issues.


I've had two panasonic projectors in the past with nary a problem. Luck of the draw or what? I don't know. As you mention -- you can have problems with any manufactorer --- but I'd sure recommend a panasonic at this point over an Epson based on personal experience of carp and I. Yes Epsons' customer service is good, but if they just keep sending us defective product, customer service stops being excellent because of the QA issue. I mean who wants another defective projector delivered overnight a half dozen times?


----------



## trader14




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7290#post_22228311
> 
> 
> Are you using hdmi for the connection?
> 
> Is the player directly connected to the projector or through a AVR?
> 
> See page 27 about aspect ratio.
> http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf



thanks for pointing me in that direction - so i have my projector hooked into my receiver along with my dvd player hooked into my receiver. The

manual says that the aspect in that config has to be changed at the source...any idea what the source is...dvd player or receiver? There has to

be a setup that makes sense so we can change the projectors aspect via projector remote especially since the projector needs a source for sound


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trader14*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22250923
> 
> 
> thanks for pointing me in that direction - so i have my projector hooked into my receiver along with my dvd player hooked into my receiver. The
> 
> manual says that the aspect in that config has to be changed at the source...any idea what the source is...dvd player or receiver? There has to
> 
> be a setup that makes sense so we can change the projectors aspect via projector remote especially since the projector needs a source for sound


By pass the receiver and connect the player directly to the projector.

Then see if the aspect ratio looks correct.


If not, check your player aspect ratio settings.

If it looks good, then reconnect the receiver and check the receiver video settings.


*In most cases, if using HDMI, you want the receiver to pass through the video signal with no processing.


----------



## Acesfullup

Epson's RMA Shipping Methods - A Tale of Woe and Misfortune for anyone returning an Epson RMA


I received my fourth advance RMA about 5 weeks ago and have been quite happy with it. Before shipping a replacement unit to you, Epson advises that you must return the old projector within 7 days in order to avoid being charge for the unit. On the day that my replacement unit was delivered, the van was packed for a two week family vacation at the beach. I quickly confirmed that the RMA worked and packed up the malfunctioning unit and dropped the package at the local FedEx shipping location as we headed south.


Four weeks later, Epson called and informed me that they never received the unit. To my utter horror, I could not find the small FedEx confirmation sticker that I had affixed to the return instructions. It had somehow detached during our vacation somewhere in the van and an extensive recovery effort could not locate it.


No problem, FedEx must have a record of the package, right? I knew the exact time and date of drop off and the destination of the package. However, there was a problem - since the shipper's and receiver's name and address were the same (Epson), the package could not be tracked easily or at all. After 3 conference calls with FedEx CAT (Customer Advocate Team) and Epson that lasted over 8 hours, a tracking number could not be found. I decided to try one more call to an absolutely dedicated FedEx customer service rep in El Paso.


The upshot of these conversations was that Epson does not record the shipping label that goes with its respective RMA. For this reason, Epson does not want to give out the details of their tracking number scheme because they have no idea if a tracking number that you give them is actually your return.


FedEx used the shipper's number, ground location number, and approximate date to narrow down the candidate packages to ~2000. The FedEx customer rep then went through the tracking details of all 2000 and further narrowed it down to two. She gave me both tracking numbers and Epson accepted one as my actual proof of return.


If anyone finds themselves in a similar pinch, be aware that Epson will not budge with regard to charging you if you can't produce a tracking number. I had the unit's serial number, an employee at the FedEx drop point who attested that I dropped off the unit, and my wife as witness to me dropping off the unit. Also be aware that it is extremely difficult (but not impossible) to track down an Epson RMA without a FedEx tracking number.


In the end, Epson did not charge me, but the entire experience left a bad taste for Epson and a deep appreciation of FedEx customer service.


----------



## 42Plasmaman

The easiest thing to do is ask FedEx for a receipt.

The receipt will have the tracking number and time the package was dropped off.


Also, keep all RMA/tracking info in a save secure place until all has been finalized.

Epson will send an email of the RMA as well if you're not afraid to provide them an email address.


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22252228
> 
> 
> The easiest thing to do is ask FedEx for a receipt.
> 
> The receipt will have the tracking number and time the package was dropped off.



No doubt. To be sure, I was at fault for losing the number. Ironically, I can put my hands on the previous and superfluous RMA FedEx tracking numbers. This is the only one I lost and Mr Murphy insisted that I should be punished for it. My hope is to document my experience in case someone else finds themselves in this unfortunate situation.


> Quote:
> Epson will send an email of the RMA as well if you're not afraid to provide them an email address.



I had the RMA, but since the tracking number and RMA are not connected, it did not help in this situation. The most frustrating aspect is that Epson had received the projector and I had the serial number of the projector, but this did not help for unknown reasons. My suspicion is that you could avoid sending the unit back and guess a correct tracking number and Epson would have no idea if you had actually sent the unit back.


Another interesting fact, I can tell you that over 20,000 projectors have been sent back to Epson in the last 6 months through Memphis.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22252722
> 
> 
> Another interesting fact, I can tell you that over 20,000 projectors have been sent back to Epson in the last 6 months through Memphis.



Where did you possibly get that information? The statement above has no validation, nor does it make any practical sense whatsoever. In any case it is inferred that all of of those were 8350s

So without even asking for the source of such "information" I can only say that what has been related above is the singularly most ludicrous statement I have *"EVER"* seen posted on this Forum in over 11 years.


And I've seen some real doozies.







I'm hoping....with great fervor that it was not something that was made "off the cuff", and perhaps something some disgruntled Epson Customer Service Rep might have come up with to try to end what was probably a pretty intense conversation.


But lets examine the lack of lucidity of such a statement by looking at just two Vendor's sales. Visual Apex and Projector People. If both have received shipments amounting to just a total of approx 3000 units ea. since 2010, that's 6000 total over *"Two plus YEARS".* Now let's say out of all other available sources combined, there were 64,000 units sold (...Epson can only wish that was the case....) bringing the total in at 70,000 units. And lets get silly and say that a full 21,000 units were returned over all that time period for whatever reason. That would amount to the Epson 8350 having a return rate of at / over 30% of all units produced.


Now that would be (...using the supplied estimated figures...) if one accounts for all units sold since September 2010. Using the statement above as presented, and accounting for only one year's sales, the return rate for "under warranty" 8350s would soar to 70% over a 1 year period. Epson would have been forced to recall every single unit, for it's absolutely certain some sort of Class action would have been initiated by the Dealer's / Retailers themselves. Why, Epson would face a severely raised "Cost of Doing Business" just trying to keep up with such numbers. But how strange indeed that the 8350 continues to hold the spot of the most popular Projector in Epson's history?


So it would seem that this thread has become a lightning rod to attract the relative few among those 10s of 1000s of owners who have had issues. Most have something valid and useful to relate. They do so out of a consideration for others, to inform them of potential problems.


Others......, they post grousing missives that are nothing more than just comments to try to stir up dissent and dissatisfaction, or express their own lack of forbearance (...or sour grapes...) as far as dealing with the Laws of Murphy that have come around to nibble at their heels . While that may well NOT be the case with *Acesfullup* (...I feel for anyone who has "lost" a PJ in transit...) it still remains highly suspicious.


That is the Internet, an empowering tool for those who have little else to look to as an outlet for their own consternation they feel for whatever the cause or perceived reason.


It is not often I get so decisive in my own responses. but unless there are specific figures supplied with verifiable conformation by Epson associates to back up the posted statement in question, I'm calling BS to the 10th order of magnitude.


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22253557
> 
> 
> Where did you possibly get that information? The statement above has no validation, nor does it make any practical sense whatsoever. In any case it is inferred that all of of those were 8350s



Wow. "[T]he singularly most ludicrous statement" in 11 years - and it's true.


I did not "infer" (sic) that they were all 8350s, you did. This was an approximate number of Epson projectors returned to the projector Unit Exchange addresses in Pinfield Indiana according to the FedEx CAT in El Paso. I was told this information on a conference call with FedEx and Epson. I can't remember if I told Ed Colfer of Epson America about it when I had corespondance with him.


> Quote:
> That is the Internet, an empowering tool for those who have little else to look to as an outlet for their own consternation they feel for whatever the cause or perceived reason.



Indeed.


How many consumer projectors were returned to Epson in the last 6 months? Where is your evidence to the contrary?


I will ask you what you asked me (and I supplied).


Where did you possibly get your information that is verifiable conformation by Epson associates?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22253767
> 
> 
> Wow. "[T]he singularly most ludicrous statement" in 11 years - and it's true.
> 
> I did not "infer" (sic) that they were all 8350s, you did.



No I did not. I stated that by your own posting of an ambiguous figure that you did. This thread is about the 8350. Why then even post such a statement if your not alluding to such applying to the PJ in question. For shock effect? And if that is not the case, why not stick to stating known facts that pertain to the 8350, not the gross number of returns that entail a total consisting of a major PJ Mfgs entire product line-up?


> Quote:
> This was an approximate number of Epson projectors returned to the projector Unit Exchange addresses in Pinfield (Plainfield) Indiana according to the FedEx CAT in El Paso. I was told this information on a conference call with FedEx and Epson. I can't remember if I told Ed Colfer of Epson America about it when I had correspondence with him.



Approximate? From a FedEx source? That pretty much sums that up. In no way is that a definitive figure from a reliable source...as described. And instead of "not remembering", why not correspond with Ed again and "ask" him to confirm such, and while your at it, ask him if you can quote his response. Should make for interesting reading in the least, and a real heads up at best.


> Quote:
> How many consumer projectors were returned to Epson in the last 6 months? Where is your evidence to the contrary?



Sorry, but it's not my hyperbole that is being questioned here, is it? If indeed (...giving you a shadow of a benefit of the doubt...) that it is hyperbole.


> Quote:
> I will ask you what you asked me (and I supplied).
> 
> Where did you possibly get your information that is verifiable conformation by Epson associates?



As usual in such cases, you can't seem to or don't want accept or realize that I was using "suppositional" figures, figures based loosely on / around *your own stated 20K figure*, to relate to and illustrate a point, not specifically "quoting" any actual known numbers that I myself were presenting as fact..


If you are going to toss out such statements, you should have *all* your facts and related information at hand, and publish them accordingly. There should be no "approximates" nor any "I can't remember"s. Anything less is at best hearsay and at worst.....










And finally as a case in point as well as a obvious desire, everyone...myself included, would love to see definitive proof of those figures, especially as to exactly how many of those "returns" were in fact 8350s. If proven to be irrefutably true, and/or the numbers of returned 8350s are substantially high, then a lot of potential buyers would benefit from knowing such. There is no disputing that at all.


Show us "the beef" and we'll chew Epson right up. If not, life goes on.


----------



## Acesfullup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22254108
> 
> 
> If not, life goes on.



I do not wish to get into a forum argument with you Miss Man and I have appreciated and benefited by your contributions to this forum - I'm merely relaying what I was told by a FedEx employee (Shannon in El Paso in fact) about Epson shipments to an RMA location and the difficulty involved in tracking down a particular package. You questioned my sources and impugned my honesty for which I gave you names and figures as I recall and as you requested.


You have responded with ad hominem and supposition. Please, take from my comment what you will. If not, life goes on.


----------



## MississippiMan

Well for my part, my concern is that others themselves might read into such comments something adverse and not relevant to what they themselves might / should expect.


In the same respect, if there was / is actual basis for real concern, I would want everyone aware of such.


While the fact that I was questioning your source of info is true, I never alluded to your honesty being in question or even suspect....just the reported figures. As read, you are stuck in a situation I and others would not enjoy being in, and when such occurs, virtually anybody might "jerk a knee" and express themselves differently than they would otherwise. People go off and say things to make them feel better, or justify their ire quite often. In this case the numbers seemed to be so excessive that a response did seem warranted. In retrospect, I realize I did over react some, but it was out of concern for the general principles of conveying accurate and important info, not hearsay and / or non-relevant stuff.


By your latest response you've convinced me that in the least you were the recipient of information that was probably related to justify the statement that FedEx could not possibly hope to track a package without proper documentation.*****


So if anything beyond incredulity was conveyed and offended you in areas you were not deserving of, you have my sincere and real apology.

***** BTW, if you hand delivered the Pkg to a FedEx Kinkos and know the date you did so, go in and ask them to search their records (I've done so with success...) If Epson sent you a FedEx Sticker, they absolutely should have the record of the attached Tracking number.


----------



## Acesfullup

Viva Civility Miss Man! My respect for you has be fully restored.


I almost had to pay double MSRP for a refurbished projector and Miss Man takes me to task for hearsay involving said projector. Rough week for my relationship with all things Epson










Sounds like a good excuse to kick back with some brews and take purchase of a new BluRay for my perfectly functioning 8350!


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Acesfullup*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22254943
> 
> 
> Sounds like a good excuse to kick back with some brews and take purchase of a new BluRay for my perfectly functioning 8350!



Amen to that! I will be joining you in spirit tonight with my good buddy Sam Adams.


----------



## sksahai

Refurb vs new 8350


Hello,


I am building a new home with a dedicated movie room. I have a 10 percent off coupon fom Epson store.com


I think the 8350 is the best projector for our general needs, netflix and blu ray.


I am owing to order a 120 inch screen from Jamestown screens. In you all opinions, should I go with he refurb, or go for the new one? 900 after coupon vs. 1170 after coupon?


Thanks!


----------



## kevinwoodward

can you tell me where to get that coupon?


----------



## curtlots

I can't say where sksahai got his coupon, but I purchased an Epson printer awhile back and signed up for email notifications. Perhaps once a month I get an email that has a coupon code. I was going to use a 10% off code when I got my 8350, but Epson was temporarily out of stock so I got it from Projector People.


----------



## sksahai

I signed up for the newsletter / special offers thing on the epsonstore website. About two weeks later, I got the coupon.


----------



## khalid7412002

So my sixth projector, a new one that was sent out in early June, is now giving me the auto Iris almost every time I turn it on. I have power cycled the unit many times, turn off/on the auto iris option and still it throws this error. I have the projector sitting on a shelf with nothing restricting air flow so no heat issues and I keep my house ac set at 78 degrees.


So today I called epson and was transferred to a level 2 somebody who spent about 30 minutes trying to convince me that this error was by design and as such I should be content with it. He went on to comparing it to a muscle and how sometimes it locks up and needs to be power cycled. I couldn't believe he was trying to justify the frequent occurrence of this error and almost had this tone in his voice that I shouldn't have a problem with this error but rather deal with it.


I will try to live with one more "brand-new" unit but if that starts giving me issues as well, I will demand a refund and buy a unit that I don't have to have replaced 6 times in less than a year.


For those that left the epson camp, where did you go and which projector did you end up getting?


I am looking at the Mitsubishi HC4000, various BenQ projectors (W7000 caught my eye). any feedback from those people returned the 8350? Thanks in advance


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khalid7412002*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22273227
> 
> 
> So today I called epson and was transferred to a level 2 somebody who spent about 30 minutes trying to convince me that this error was by design and as such I should be content with it. He went on to comparing it to a muscle and how sometimes it locks up and needs to be power cycled. I couldn't believe he was trying to justify the frequent occurrence of this error and almost had this tone in his voice that I shouldn't have a problem with this error but rather deal with it.



That doesn't sound good, this is the first I've heard of them trying to explain away a problem in an attempt to get the customer to just give up and live with a projector that isn't working properly. I'm on my 3rd new working projector (6 total projectors have been here though, 2 refurbs and a new unit were DOA), and I have very little faith that I won't have problems with this one too.


----------



## khalid7412002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22273407
> 
> 
> That doesn't sound good, this is the first I've heard of them trying to explain away a problem in an attempt to get the customer to just give up and live with a projector that isn't working properly. I'm on my 3rd new working projector (6 total projectors have been here though, 2 refurbs and a new unit were DOA), and I have very little faith that I won't have problems with this one too.



Yea it was frustrating to say the least, especially given the fact that every rep prior apologized and said it should not happen so frequently, if at all. They offered me a few options and once I receive the new one, I will update everyone on what was offered to me personally.


I know since this is an epson thread there will be a bias towards epson projectors when compared to others, but what would give the best 2D picture, the 8350, 3010, or benq W6000? All my limited research is saying the w6000 is the best choice out of the three and I can get one for only a $200 price increase if I should get a refund from epson. Thanks again for any advice. I just want a projector that I don't need to replace every few months.


----------



## slennon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khalid7412002*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22273227
> 
> 
> So my sixth projector, a new one that was sent out in early June, is now giving me the auto Iris almost every time I turn it on. I have power cycled the unit many times, turn off/on the auto iris option and still it throws this error. I have the projector sitting on a shelf with nothing restricting air flow so no heat issues and I keep my house ac set at 78 degrees.
> 
> So today I called epson and was transferred to a level 2 somebody who spent about 30 minutes trying to convince me that this error was by design and as such I should be content with it. He went on to comparing it to a muscle and how sometimes it locks up and needs to be power cycled. I couldn't believe he was trying to justify the frequent occurrence of this error and almost had this tone in his voice that I shouldn't have a problem with this error but rather deal with it.
> 
> I will try to live with one more "brand-new" unit but if that starts giving me issues as well, I will demand a refund and buy a unit that I don't have to have replaced 6 times in less than a year.
> 
> For those that left the epson camp, where did you go and which projector did you end up getting?
> 
> I am looking at the Mitsubishi HC4000, various BenQ projectors (W7000 caught my eye). any feedback from those people returned the 8350? Thanks in advance



We managed to get our money back. I went looking for something bright, a step up in blacks and good for gaming. Ruled out all Epson for obvious reasons. I liked the hc4000 but it wasn't bright enough for my high ambient light needs. The benq 7000 is the one I ended up with and am very happy with it. Granted it was $900 more expensive but it has 3d too. I would likely have been happy with the 2d version w6000 but they are hard to come by in Canada. Long story short everyone in my house is happy and good on Epson for refunding the money.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khalid7412002*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22273598
> 
> 
> Yea it was frustrating to say the least, especially given the fact that every rep prior apologized and said it should not happen so frequently, if at all. They offered me a few options and once I receive the new one, I will update everyone on what was offered to me personally.
> 
> I know since this is an epson thread there will be a bias towards epson projectors when compared to others, but what would give the best 2D picture, the 8350, 3010, or benq W6000? All my limited research is saying the w6000 is the best choice out of the three and I can get one for only a $200 price increase if I should get a refund from epson. Thanks again for any advice. I just want a projector that I don't need to replace every few months.


The W6000 is a sharp projector but you'll need to tolerate RBE(Rainbow Effect).

The iris also has a higher pitch sound than the Epson when in motion.


To see how sensitive you are to RBE, watch a movie with dark scenes with mood lighting like candles or a black and white movie like Sin City.

A slight wondering of the eyes or head will let you know how sensitive you are to RBE.

Once you see them, you can't undo RBE.

It's just a matter if you can tolerate them.


Also, DLP projectors have a slightly louder fan.


----------



## Pyrex238

I've read the last few pages of the thread, it seems a lot of you are upset with your 8350's? I'm concerned because I'm about to upgrade from my Optoma HD70, and I've been interested in the 8350 because it doesn't have a color wheel (which I had to replaced on my HD70). How happy is everyone with their 8350, and if not - which projector do you guys recommend? Many of the projector reviews I can find are outdated.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22274116
> 
> 
> Also, DLP projectors have a slightly louder fan.


I think also less forgiving as to placement (for a given screen size). At least that was the case for my 8350 vs my brother's DLP Optoma.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pyrex238*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22277139
> 
> 
> ... it seems a lot of you are upset with your 8350's?


Not me. I love mine.

 

It's about 1 year old. No problems at all. I use it 6-10 hours a week. I like the brightness of non-Eco mode and placement flexability of optics. 96" picture is great.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pyrex238*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7300_100#post_22277139
> 
> 
> I've read the last few pages of the thread, it seems a lot of you are upset with your 8350's? I'm concerned because I'm about to upgrade from my Optoma HD70, and I've been interested in the 8350 because it doesn't have a color wheel (which I had to replaced on my HD70). How happy is everyone with their 8350, and if not - which projector do you guys recommend? Many of the projector reviews I can find are outdated.



No issues here about seven months in. I love the image that my 8350 throws up on my 115" diag image. I run mine mostly in eco/cinema mode and it is beautiful. My only complaint is the horizontal/vertical is pone to moving when there is a lot of heavy activity on the floor right above it. Just a minor nit pick as it is very easy for me to rest it, but a little more friction or some type of lock would be helpful. On the reviews since this is an "old" model you won't find many "new" reviews as most reviews have moved on to the newer offerings from the manufactures.


You will find many here that have had issues, but I qualify that statement saying this. Many who are happy have had no issues or problems, so they say nothing/post nothing or maybe not even bother to visit. Others search the web when they have a problem or when they get a projector come to the owners forums for suggestions and advice. Just a balanced way to look at that aspect of ownership. Just make sure you purchase from a reputable dealer and if you do have issues then Epson's CS will be there for you.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## gazzagazza

Human nature is to be vocal when there are problems, but not to be when there are none. So all you hear about, mostly, are the problems.


I've had mine for about 6 months. Fantastic. I have a couple of dust blobs, but my previous Panasonic models got those as well. Its easy to clean them out, see the instruction earlier in this thread. I haven't done that on my 8350 yet, but I used the same procedure on a Panasonic and it was easy and worked.




quote name="Pyrex238" url="/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22277139"]I've read the last few pages of the thread, it seems a lot of you are upset with your 8350's? I'm concerned because I'm about to upgrade from my Optoma HD70, and I've been interested in the 8350 because it doesn't have a color wheel (which I had to replaced on my HD70). How happy is everyone with their 8350, and if not - which projector do you guys recommend? Many of the projector reviews I can find are outdated.[/quote]


----------



## sschantz

Rtrose and gazza hit it on the head. Like many things people are quick to point out the negatives. I have had my 8350 for maybe 3 months, lil over 100 hrs and love it. I have it set to econo mode on a 96 inch and couldnt be happier. Truthfully I have nothing to compare it to as I am the first of my buds to have one but friends have fallen in love.


I popped in hugo (blu) with 7.2 surround...magic. Also recently watched Real Steel with my son,awesome. Cant wait for Tuesday when Lorax comes out as I know this will be dynamic.


I researched optoma, mitsubishi and epson and glad I bought this one.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pyrex238*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22277139
> 
> 
> I've read the last few pages of the thread, it seems a lot of you are upset with your 8350's? I'm concerned because I'm about to upgrade from my Optoma HD70, and I've been interested in the 8350 because it doesn't have a color wheel (which I had to replaced on my HD70). How happy is everyone with their 8350, and if not - which projector do you guys recommend? Many of the projector reviews I can find are outdated.



Just back from a 2500 mile driving stint over 2 days time (...don't ask...







) and I find the last 4 posts waiting. It's both a refreshing change and a good testimonial for the 8350's potential.


Adding my own wholly unbiased observations over the course of having installed 20+ 8350's in a wide variety of situations, I have to say that in all of those circumstances:


1. I never had a "Bad out of the Box" unit. (...of course they were all New, not Refurbs....)

2. I've never had a premature Lamp failure (shortest time...1875 hrs and it was replaced at N/C )

3. I have "NEVER" received a unit that was more than 1 Pixel off alignment, and several were absolutely perfect.

4. I have never had one with a noticeably loud Auto Iris.

5. I have never received a Unit with a pre-existing "Dust Blob".

6. I have never received a Unit will any Color hazing issues, or Vertical / Horizontal lins

7. 3 installations involved loosening of Lens Shift positioning because of excessive Bass or Ceiling Speaker resonance.

8. 2 units had HDMI 1 stop working after a couple hundred hours (...probable cause was Current surge through Receiver/Cable Box...) so both simply switched to HDMI2. They will be sent in for repair / replacement before warranty expires.

9. 1 Unit was rendered inoperable by a House lightning strike. 2 Months prior to Warranty exp. date. Returned and replaced with a perfect Re-Furb w/New Lamp.

10. I have become very confident when choosing the 8350 in/for circumstances that call for what it delivers at the Price it commands.


All that being said, I want to stress that even with me being the Thread Starter, I hold no bias or Fan Boy status over/on the 8350. What counts for me is my own experience, and my having read every single post on this Thread, which allows me to say with confidence.that the ratio of satisfied (ie:almost giddy...) End Users is at least 100:1. The truth is, with the sheer amount of units now out there, and the presence of this thread on the World Largest (...and most visited...) A/V Forum, a disproportionate number of complaints to those who are satisfied are what get most the press. Understandable since the ire dissatisfaction generates tends to drive people to action more quickly than does one finding motivation to get up from the Chair, turn off the Projector, and post up how glorious their viewing experience is.


For those who have had repeated instances of despair involving multiple returns / replacements with little or no resolution, I say this with all sincerity. My heart does pain for all you all. Knowing how good something is only means something to those who have had that experience, For everyone who tries and dies...it's a bitter pill indeed.


As comparison, and to show how PJ issues can plague even me....I've installed 4 JVC X3s over a 14 month period. All have been replaced at least 2x each (one 4xs) for mechanical / Software issues, and between them all, a total of 11 Lamp replacements ( PJ to Lamp = 3 x 2 - 1 x 1 - 1 x 4 ) have occurred.


As such, I don't use JVC's anymore.







Worse...I can say without pause that I *"WAS"* a JVC Fan Boy before.....


----------



## TrekFX

I'll make a few observations here again as well.


Early on, I went through a few exchanges over what seemed to be convergence/alignment issues. I finally settled on the fourth and called it good enough.


However, as I worked with the unit it seemed that the degree of misalignment was not consistent over time... sometimes worse, sometimes better. I wiggled the lens barrel and focus/zoom bits and it may or may not have had an effect.


What I do see lately is


1) Proper mechanical focus (and I mean as close to dead-on as you can get it) seems to improve color alignment. No big surprise. Proper alignment of projector and screen are also vital in getting uniform focus and subsequently minimizing color alignment issues. Using the AVSHD and the WOW composite pattern, I looked for best pixel/edge definition and minimal flare in white-on-black dots.


2) Proper sharpness setting minimizes color fringing at dark/light transitions. This is a bit tricky. I have bounced between advanced settings of 0 0 0 0 and 0 0 3 3 and 0 0 5 5. Setting the first two at 0 0 is nominal (thin/thick line enhancement.) The higher the sharpness, the more pronounced and "solid" any color offset seems. At 0 I had a solid red fringe along the top of white lines. Lower sharpness softens this and blends it back into the white. Now, before you say I'm throwing away detail...


The hard part was getting the best setting for vertical/horizontal, mostly because of the initial difficulty in setting mechanical focus. It's a very coarse thread and very very sensitive. Doing it solo and running back and forth (no binoculars that focus close enough...) was problematic. But I finally got it with great focus corner to corner (some compromise, of course...)


Then it was just a matter of evaluating patterns and following the data. For the most part, I used to AVSHD disc (the composite pattern which is like the 5th pattern from the start of basic settings, with white-on-black dots, gray steps, resolution, fine text etc and WOW zone plate with composite patterns for final eval. Proper mechanical focus seems essential for proper evaluation here, otherwise, the finest-level-detail goes missing and electronic sharpness becomes a band-aid.


Using the zone plate, I eliminated all traces of aliasing artifacts at (trying to remember, I'll verify later when I fire up the system!) 0 0 4 5 or something very close to that (verification pending.) This did result in a loss of definition on dots and edges. BUT 1-pixel lines and checkerboards became free of color artifacts and average-value mismatch. In other words, they were now being displayed correctly. Color fringing on dark-light transitions was dramatically reduced. While the finest text on the WOW composite pattern and sharpness (focus) pattern was softened, it was still as legible as before.


Yes, it's very different from a super-sharp-edge presentation, but after acclimation and real-program-image eval, I like it. I'm 8 feet back from a 100" or so screen and it looks more like "a movie" than video. I perceive no loss of real detail.



I also had a lot of difficulty setting proper RGBCMY using ColorHCFR, I-1 and the AVSHD disc. I don't know if my room with full blackout was kicking off-spectrum bounce back to the sensor or what. (Watch out for this... if I drape a piece of black cloth over my sensor, horizontally-bounced "white" light goes green. Maybe a by-product of polarization?) At any rate I no longer have difficulty. Other than the green primary living on another planet...


I had a couple minor dust blobs appear when I changed my bulb (very carefully, I may add.) They only really show in very dark images. They're not bad enough to may me want to go in and clean!



In summary, I'm very happy with my 8350. A lot of my early problems were probably self-induced and now as I work more with it and trust my EYES as well as the numbers it's just better and (now incrementally!) better. My only real technical gripe is the green primary. There's no excuse for that to deviate as much as it does, to the point of being uncorrectable.* Contrast, brightness etc are all what I'd expect per specifications, technology and price-point. I'm happy!


* I did take readings on the XV color mode and while it pretty much sucked in every way, the green primary seemed perfect. Go figure. I want to know the service menu access codes so I can use that modes primary tracking in my other useful modes!


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7320#post_22264578
> 
> 
> Refurb vs new 8350
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am building a new home with a dedicated movie room. I have a 10 percent off coupon fom Epson store.com
> 
> I think the 8350 is the best projector for our general needs, netflix and blu ray.
> 
> I am going to order a 120 inch screen from Jamestown screens. In you all opinions, should I go with he refurb, or go for the new one? 900 after coupon vs. 1170 after coupon?
> 
> Thanks!




Any advice? Refurb vs new? Gotta make a decision soon before the coupon expires!


----------



## coderguy

Neither, wait for it to go back on sale, I'm sure it will in about a month or two or less. It will probably be $999 again somewhere new. Unless you just cannot wait, then I say either/or.

Just depends on how much that $270 matters to you I suppose. As far as projector reliability goes, well most people don't use their projectors nearly as much as some of us do, that's why many of us have experienced more problems (don't own the 8350 myself though). Convergence issues still are quite common on LCD projectors, I've seen enough to know that. You will probably get 1.5 pixels or less overall convergence error (if counting all pixels) on average, but 1 pixel off on RED is still pretty annoying, unless it's off on blue which is not bad (1/2 pixel off on blue is like nothing). The problem is the lens shift will add to that error a little bit, so it all just stacks up. As you pay more money on the higher-end projectors, the convergence tends to average better but more importantly you get convergence correction abilities.


The 8350 is really good if you get a good sample (and most probably will), but it could definitely use a bit of a boost from the Darby Darblet (just like almost almost all projectors seem to benefit from it). I haven't gotten the Darby yet myself, but everyone is raving about it, I haven't seen hardly even one bad review (ok maybe 1 in 1000).


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22291367
> 
> 
> Any advice? Refurb vs new? Gotta make a decision soon before the coupon expires!



If you're going to order a jamestown screen you might as well wait to see if the projector goes on sale considering that jamestown have over a 60 day waiting list.


On the other hand there are a lot of other alternatives for projection screens. I never have really seen a a good reason why jamestown screen seems to be a choice for quite a few members.


As far as the 8350 goes, coderguy is right as far as a possible discount on new units that will come around sometime in late september. CEDIA it's very close up on us, and while most of the new projector releases won't be available 4 at least 2 to 3 months after the showo, how many people will baisser buying decisions on waiting until the latest and the greatest projectors arrive. This will leave the most retailers, both E-tail and brick and mortar desperate to move existing inventory. So isten chile it's a play the odds waiting game, or a "I can't wait any longer" kind of thing.


Now I personally have never purchased 8350 as a refurb from the get go, I have never experienced the issues that have come to a few from out of the box units. And that statement covers in excess of 20 8350s


Of course as in so many things similar, your mileage may vary. Especially if I was to say you would not have any issues at all.


----------



## SmokenAshes

Question guys, I have around 450 hours on my current Epson 8350 and I noticed while I was playing NCAA 13 that the brightness of the bulb started to flicker dim ever so slightly. It was barely noticeable but I could see it. I thought it might have been the game so I tested it on the PS3 home screen and sure enough it was doing it there as well. Any ideas why its doing this? Is my bulb going out?


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SmokenAshes*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22294392
> 
> 
> Question guys, I have around 450 hours on my current Epson 8350 and I noticed while I was playing NCAA 13 that the brightness of the bulb started to flicker dim ever so slightly. It was barely noticeable but I could see it. I thought it might have been the game so I tested it on the PS3 home screen and sure enough it was doing it there as well. Any ideas why its doing this? Is my bulb going out?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Turn off Eco and run in non-Eco (Normal) mode for a couple of hours. This has been reported to "even-out" the bulb.


----------



## Pray23

it it good to know the Vidabox works well anyway


----------



## retroeric

Can someone tell me what could be the problem here?


My 8350 is no longer finding the signal from my DVD player using the 25 foot HDMI cable that was working fine for a year. Thinking it was the cable, I tested the same cable from the DVD player to my plasma TV and it works fine. So then, thinking it was now the projector or its ports, I tried my shorter 10 foot HDMI cable that was being used with the plasma, and the projector now gets the signal just fine. What on earth could be the reason why the 25 foot cable is not working with the projector anymore?


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *retroeric*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22295416
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me what could be the problem here?
> 
> My 8350 is no longer finding the signal from my DVD player using the 25 foot HDMI cable that was working fine for a year. Thinking it was the cable, I tested the same cable from the DVD player to my plasma TV and it works fine. So then, thinking it was now the projector or its ports, I tried my shorter 10 foot HDMI cable that was being used with the plasma, and the projector now gets the signal just fine. What on earth could be the reason why the 25 foot cable is not working with the projector anymore?


Is your 25ft a CL2 rated cable, generic $5 cable or Monster cable?


I've found sticking with 24AWG CL2 or thicker is best for runs longer than 6ft.


----------



## Carlos_

Hello everyone.


I am considering purchasing this projector.


I have two questions:


1) Does the box packaging have the date of manufacture on it? If i go to a store, can I determine the date of manufacture of the unit by just looking at the box outside without opening it?


2) Does the projector itself have the date of manufacture inscribed on it?


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7300_100#post_22299711
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I am considering purchasing this projector.
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> 1) Does the box packaging have the date of manufacture on it? If i go to a store, can I determine the date of manufacture of the unit by just looking at the box outside without opening it?
> 
> 2) Does the projector itself have the date of manufacture inscribed on it?



I don't have a good answer for you, but my question is why is that important to you to know the date of manufacture? If it is new in the box it is covered by Espon at the date of purchase not the date of manufacture. No worries.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## gene9p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22299711
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I am considering purchasing this projector.
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> 1) Does the box packaging have the date of manufacture on it? If i go to a store, can I determine the date of manufacture of the unit by just looking at the box outside without opening it?
> 
> 2) Does the projector itself have the date of manufacture inscribed on it?



I don't see a date on the box or my projector..you could copy down a serial number from one in your local store and call epson


----------



## KoPJim

I just installed this projector last week. A few thoughts that would have helped me make a decision sooner:


1. I was replacing a 7 year od BenQ PE7700 whose color wheel finally shattered. So I knew whatever I bought would be a big of improvement. My biggest complaint about the BenQ was lack of brightness. And it was 720p.


2. This Epson out of box had great color. I haven't adjusted anything and I might not. It looks that good.


I have a 106" screeen in a basement that I can make pitch black, but I usually keep some ceiling lights on dim (but not the lights in the screen area). Light colored walls and white ceiling. Projector is 12.5 feet away from the screen and so is the seating. For movies, I would keep all of the lights off except for the undercabinet lighting about 20 feet away. So, with the setup explained...


4. This projector has plenty bright. I am most comfortable viewing in a dark room with ceiling lights (about 20 feet away) on dim when I am in Cinema mode and also in eco power mode. Yes, this is as dim as you can make it. This is still brighter than my old BenQ. Maybe I will make it brighter in the future, but looks great at this level. My son commented that when the XBox splash came on, it was blinding (all white screen with the xbox logo in the middle).


This projector is plenty bright for a basement setup. If I have more lights on, I can just bump up the picture mode and switch to full power.


This is important becasue I was considering the Panasonic 100u becasue of its added brightness. At worst, I think that would have been too bright for my application. At best, I don't need the added brightness. So I would rather have the better picture quality of the 8350 (or so the other reviews say, since I never saw the 100u).


5. Projector is directly overhead and I can't hear it at all. I have it in eco mode, remember.


6. I needed a gamer, so 75% of the other projectors were off my list immediately. I also do not feel like paying for 3D at this point. That would have been another $1000 and endless glasses costs thereafter. I have a lot of friends over for sports, so I wasn't about to buy 10 pair of glasses. Plus, it seems like the 3D processing time makes most (but not all) 3D projectors too slow for gaming.


End of story... this projector was the best 2D movie/gaming projector with the brightness I needed.


Now I am waiting for Epson to replace this 2-year old projector this fall with something amazing, so I kick myself. But I had to buy now, my old projector died and football season is about to start.


Interestingly, the auto-iris comes factory set to off. I haven't turned it on yet.


One final comment... the reviewers on this site and especially the pro reviewers are a little over the top with finding some difference between two or three amazing projectors. Remember, they have to find a difference, or what are they doing it for. As I said earlier, I'm sure any projector I decided to buy would have given me a great picture. So I suggest the you not worry about the minutia in the picture quality reviews and focus on the features that you want. Gaming speed, 3D, brightness, picture in picture, etc. and most importantly, price.


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KoPJim*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22323003
> 
> 
> I just installed this projector last week. A few thoughts that would have helped me make a decision sooner:
> 
> 1. I was replacing a 7 year od BenQ PE7700 whose color wheel finally shattered. So I knew whatever I bought would be a big of improvement. My biggest complaint about the BenQ was lack of brightness. And it was 720p.
> 
> 2. This Epson out of box had great color. I haven't adjusted anything and I might not. It looks that good.
> 
> I have a 106" screeen in a basement that I can make pitch black, but I usually keep some ceiling lights on dim (but not the lights in the screen area). Light colored walls and white ceiling. Projector is 12.5 feet away from the screen and so is the seating. For movies, I would keep all of the lights off except for the undercabinet lighting about 20 feet away. So, with the setup explained...
> 
> 4. This projector has plenty bright. I am most comfortable viewing in a dark room with ceiling lights (about 20 feet away) on dim when I am in Cinema mode and also in eco power mode. Yes, this is as dim as you can make it. This is still brighter than my old BenQ. Maybe I will make it brighter in the future, but looks great at this level. My son commented that when the XBox splash came on, it was blinding (all white screen with the xbox logo in the middle).
> 
> This projector is plenty bright for a basement setup. If I have more lights on, I can just bump up the picture mode and switch to full power.
> 
> This is important becasue I was considering the Panasonic 100u becasue of its added brightness. At worst, I think that would have been too bright for my application. At best, I don't need the added brightness. So I would rather have the better picture quality of the 8350 (or so the other reviews say, since I never saw the 100u).
> 
> 5. Projector is directly overhead and I can't hear it at all. I have it in eco mode, remember.
> 
> 6. I needed a gamer, so 75% of the other projectors were off my list immediately. I also do not feel like paying for 3D at this point. That would have been another $1000 and endless glasses costs thereafter. I have a lot of friends over for sports, so I wasn't about to buy 10 pair of glasses. Plus, it seems like the 3D processing time makes most (but not all) 3D projectors too slow for gaming.
> 
> End of story... this projector was the best 2D movie/gaming projector with the brightness I needed.
> 
> Now I am waiting for Epson to replace this 2-year old projector this fall with something amazing, so I kick myself. But I had to buy now, my old projector died and football season is about to start.
> 
> Interestingly, the auto-iris comes factory set to off. I haven't turned it on yet.
> 
> One final comment... the reviewers on this site and especially the pro reviewers are a little over the top with finding some difference between two or three amazing projectors. Remember, they have to find a difference, or what are they doing it for. As I said earlier, I'm sure any projector I decided to buy would have given me a great picture. So I suggest the you not worry about the minutia in the picture quality reviews and focus on the features that you want. Gaming speed, 3D, brightness, picture in picture, etc. and most importantly, price.



Great Review! There are quite a few similarities from my basement build I am working on:...106" screen, 12.5ish throw, ability to light control but like some lights dimmly on, big time gamer. Great point in finding some differences. Your review has me leaning towards the 8350 now. Thanks.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22325415
> 
> 
> Great Review! There are quite a few similarities from my basement build I am working on:...106" screen, 12.5ish throw, ability to light control but like some lights dimmly on, big time gamer. Great point in finding some differences. Your review has me leaning towards the 8350 now. Thanks.



Exactly my setup and uses too. I've had my refurb 8350 for several months now and agree with everything KoPJim said. I didn't want to overspend on my first projector. Perhaps in a couple years I will move on to something else, but it will also have to be 8350ish in it's price/performance ratio. I considered several other projectors, but this one seemed to be the only one to me that hit all the right points. Good luck in your decision.


----------



## MississippiMan

I gotta add, that out of all the projectors that have crossed my path, the 8350 has filled more needs and done so with more and continual distinction than any other projector could have possibly done.


Now, if Epson would only make a short throw 1080p PJ with 3000+ lumens -H&V Lens Shift - 3-D - 1 Mil:1 "Native" Contrast & 10,000 hr lamp......for under $1000.00.










Why, we'd be all set!


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22292203
> 
> 
> If you're going to order a jamestown screen you might as well wait to see if the projector goes on sale considering that jamestown have over a 60 day waiting list.
> 
> On the other hand there are a lot of other alternatives for projection screens. I never have really seen a a good reason why jamestown screen seems to be a choice for quite a few members.



MississippiMan,


Who else would you recommend for a screen? I am in the Houston Texas area. The only reason I picked Jamestown was this forum, and the price was good.

Thanks!


----------



## atl999

This may have been brought up many times on this forum but I am not sure if there has been a solution suggested for my kind of setup/issue. I have Epson 8350 connected to my HTPC. It usually works fine but as soon as I either go to Windows Explorer or any website, all of sudden I start getting some flickering followed by complete video loss and constant searching of signal. I have used the 50' HDMI Redmere from Pioneer VSX 1120K receiver (wherein I have turned off the video conversion). The HDMI used between HTPC and Pioneer Recever is 6' HDMI (ultra high speed). I have noticed that even when I have connected HTPC video out directly to Projector using the same HDMI cable, it had the similar issue. Usually when I shutdown Projector and re-start, it seems to have solved the issue. Could some one please help me understand if this is a usual problem and there is any work around or permanent solution, or there is something wrong with my Projector.


----------



## Acesfullup

When my HTPC switches the refresh rate back to 60 (from 23.976, 50, 25) it sometimes flickers / blacks out briefly - but that is expected. What HTPC software are you running?


Have you tried both HDMI inputs?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *atl999*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22338970
> 
> 
> This may have been brought up many times on this forum but I am not sure if there has been a solution suggested for my kind of setup/issue. I have Epson 8350 connected to my HTPC. It usually works fine but as soon as I either go to Windows Explorer or any website, all of sudden I start getting some flickering followed by complete video loss and constant searching of signal. I have used the 50' HDMI Redmere from Pioneer VSX 1120K receiver (wherein I have turned off the video conversion). The HDMI used between HTPC and Pioneer Recever is 6' HDMI (ultra high speed). I have noticed that even when I have connected HTPC video out directly to Projector using the same HDMI cable, it had the similar issue. Usually when I shutdown Projector and re-start, it seems to have solved the issue. Could some one please help me understand if this is a usual problem and there is any work around or permanent solution, or there is something wrong with my Projector.


The first step is to narrow down the problem. Only change one thing at a time and document progress. See where the problems follow. Pick a couple of highest-bandwidth test files/discs to test with.

 

Try a HDMI Blu-Ray player (or other HDMI Input device) instead of HTPC (with everything else the same).

 

Try HTPC (and/or or other HDMI Input device) connected directly to 8350 with a nice low-gauge (6-15 ft.) HDMI cable.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Hey Guys,


I was just wanting your opinion on a projector I looked at today. It is a used 8350. It has nearly 700 hours on its second bulb. The first bulb went out at 2500 hours. It was purchased in 5/2011. So has Epson warranty until 5/2013. Can anyone confirm if the Epson Warranty transfers to the new owner. I am not even sure if she registered It when purchased. It was bough from Best Buy. She got the extended warranty/service plan and is under warranty per Best Buy until 5/15. I know the BB warranty is transferable.


The projector is in a home which stunk horribly of cigarette smoke. (sorry to those smokers out there). Should I be concerned with the high amount of total hours on the projector. It had an in home calibration done when purchased. I am sure that doesnt mean squat now with a new bulb and all those hours. Should i be concerned about the smokey enviorment. It has been on craigslist for well over a month now. I found out I am the first to acutally look at it. I asked why it hasnt sold and she stated that people have said she is over priced. Last price was $700. I think for 6-650 cash its sold. Should I quit over thinking and just buy it given that its covered until 5/15?


Thanks!


----------



## kevinwoodward

I have no issues with my 8350, but recently (I sit directly under it) I have noticed the fan making more noise?


should i do something? worry? follow the direction to clean out dust?

suggestions welcome...


thanks,


----------



## lespurgeon

I got an e-mail from Visual Apex (forum sponsor) today - if you are looking for a 8350 deal, go check them right now.


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22358991
> 
> 
> I got an e-mail from Visual Apex (forum sponsor) today - if you are looking for a 8350 deal, go check them right now.




it's 20.00 off.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22358422
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I was just wanting your opinion on a projector I looked at today. It is a used 8350. It has nearly 700 hours on its second bulb. The first bulb went out at 2500 hours. It was purchased in 5/2011. So has Epson warranty until 5/2013. Can anyone confirm if the Epson Warranty transfers to the new owner. I am not even sure if she registered It when purchased. It was bough from Best Buy. She got the extended warranty/service plan and is under warranty per Best Buy until 5/15. I know the BB warranty is transferable.
> 
> The projector is in a home which stunk horribly of cigarette smoke. (sorry to those smokers out there). Should I be concerned with the high amount of total hours on the projector. It had an in home calibration done when purchased. I am sure that doesnt mean squat now with a new bulb and all those hours. Should i be concerned about the smokey enviorment. It has been on craigslist for well over a month now. I found out I am the first to acutally look at it. I asked why it hasnt sold and she stated that people have said she is over priced. Last price was $700. I think for 6-650 cash its sold. Should I quit over thinking and just buy it given that its covered until 5/15?
> 
> Thanks!




I would bite on it. You don't mention as to if the 2nd Bulb was a replacement by Epson, or purchased via a "aftermarket" source. If it's the latter, and the unit was not registered, I'd think you could not go wrong @$600.00.

Of course there could be things wrong with the unit that are not alluded to in the listing, but such are the chances you take with such things. Even if the existing lamp went south (Smokers who do not religiously clean the Filters frequently have premature failures quite often) soon after arrival, and upon inquiry Epson refused to replace it Gratis, lamp replacements are now at such a low cost you'd have to do it 2x again to lose ground. And....if BB's warranty mirrors Epson...that too might be all the goad you need.


As I said earlier....iffin' it were me.......I'd bite.


----------



## Duke Broadway

They used the BB warranty to replace the bulb. So I couldnt use the BB warranty for future bulb replacements. Everything I have read says the epson warranty doesnt transfer,...is this correct? So how does it work if the unit was not registered with epson? I offered $550. They said they would take no less than $700. I replied back that I would split the difference and make ith $625. They claim that someone is coming on friday to look at it. and would give them $700. Find that odd cause in over an months time I am the very first to actually stop and look at it. I think they are bluffing. What is bulb replacement costs these days. I am seeing anywhere from $275 to $75 for ebay lamps. What are average repair costs. Can you buy a warranty on used projectors? Thanks for the info, greatly appreciate it.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22330018
> 
> 
> MississippiMan,
> 
> Who else would you recommend for a screen? I am in the Houston Texas area. The only reason I picked Jamestown was this forum, and the price was good.
> 
> Thanks!



Hello there,


I apologize for overlooking your posted request. It somehow slipped my attention.


First off, let me be clear in saying that there is nothing inherently wrong with Jamestown screen, except for the protracted delay in filling orders.


Jamestown screens do in fact pass muster as far as being acceptable, white fixed screens.


While there are other affordable choices out there, since I do not know your budget your what you really need in a screen, I cannot really give you a "take to the bank" suggestion as to what would be the best value for your dollar, especially performance wise.


While getting something inexpensive has a lot going for it , knowing that you're getting up the best performance for your money plays a big part in your having the the highest overall satisfaction.


So give up a little more specific info. Please.


----------



## ZNichols

Just picked it up new at a closing Best Buy for $909.00! Wasn't planning on buying a projector yet but couldn't say no to the price. Picture quality looks great right out of the box!


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22330018
> 
> 
> MississippiMan,
> 
> Who else would you recommend for a screen? I am in the Houston Texas area. The only reason I picked Jamestown was this forum, and the price was good.
> 
> Thanks!



I picked up a Carada 96 for 630 and I love it. Granted I have not had anything to compare it to but again very happy and easy assembly.


----------



## keithrwhiteside

I dont know if it is transferrable. I would assume if you had the persons name and if something did go wrong and just gave your name as the original owners and they supplied you with a copy of reciept i dont think there would be any issues. When i returned mine they simply asked when it was bought and sent me a box. On the other hand. I would call there bluff. Everyone wants the most for their product. I would contact them and tell them ok understand. If it doesnt sell then you have my information give me a call. Id bet they call you within the week.


----------



## tank01

Hey Mississippiman


I'm a little confused about screen gain. I 'm building a screen, and i would like to know if if there's a difference in blacks on dark scenes whether i use a neutral white srceen or a white screen with a gain of 1.2 ?


I have dark walls, and full control of the lighting. It's pretty much a dedicated cinema room for night time movies.


I'm rebuilding the cinema so i can place the 8350 at any distance from the screen and i'm planning on building a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen. My choices are Seymour xd material witch has a gain of 1.2 or the Accuscreen 120" screen witch is already built and offers the choice of matte white or a grey screen . The white one is neutral and the grey one is .08 gain


What would you do if it was you choosing?


Thanks


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tank01*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22373167
> 
> 
> Hey Mississippiman
> 
> I'm a little confused about screen gain. I building a screen, and i would like to know if if there's a difference in blacks on dark scenes whether i use a neutral white srceen or a white screen with a gain of 1.2 I have dark walls, and full control of the lighting. It's pretty much a dedicated cinema room for night time movies.
> 
> I'm rebuilding the cinema so i can place the 8350 at any distance from the screen and i'm planning on building a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen. My choices are Seymour xd material or the Accuscreen 120" screen witch is already built and offers the choice of matte white or a grey screen.
> 
> What would you do if it was you choosing?
> 
> Thanks



For what it's worth, I did my screen using the Seymour XD material. I did a 106" 16:9 screen. It's my first screen but I absolutely love it. I decided to play some SACD's last night and the acoustically transparent screen allows all my front speakers to be at the same height. Sound is fantastic as is the picture the 8350 projects on it. The projector is roughly 12' from the screen and my room has a black ceiling and neutral carpet and walls.


----------



## tank01

How are your blacks on dark sceans .

Thanks


----------



## tank01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22373998
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I did my screen using the Seymour XD material. I did a 106" 16:9 screen. It's my first screen but I absolutely love it. I decided to play some SACD's last night and the acoustically transparent screen allows all my front speakers to be at the same height. Sound is fantastic as is the picture the 8350 projects on it. The projector is roughly 12' from the screen and my room has a black ceiling and neutral carpet and walls.



How are your blacks on dark sceans

Thanks


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tank01*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22374073
> 
> 
> How are your blacks on dark sceans
> 
> Thanks



I'm coming from a 65" rear projection CRT TV and I'm happy with the blacks. The 8350 isn't known for having the deepest blacks so I use masking panels for movies that are 2.35:1. I also had masking panels for the 65" TV...


----------



## tank01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22374842
> 
> 
> I'm coming from a 65" rear projection CRT TV and I'm happy with the blacks. The 8350 isn't known for having the deepest blacks so I use masking panels for movies that are 2.35:1. I also had masking panels for the 65" TV...



You gave me the perfect answer to my question, That's really what bothers me about my optoma hd 20 is that the bars seem to be really present. I had a infocus 4805 and a mitsubishi hd1000 and the bars weren't such a distraction, those two projectors weren't as bright as my hd 20.


Oh well you just helped me make up my mind and i'm going to buy the epson 8700 ub instead of the 8350. I've read that the bars completely disappear on this one.


Thanks for your help


----------



## Steven Kelley

So after the 4th failed Epson 8350 debacle I recieved my full refund from Epson (Yay Epson support!) and I purchased the Panasonic PT-AR100U. I just recieved the Panasonic last night and installed it. Here's my quick review for anyone that is deciding on another projector besides the Epson 8350 in its pricerange. Please note I did not adjust the color settings yet, Everything's default out of box.

_Panasonic PT-AR100U_
*Pros:*
Position is a breeze. It has a lever much like the old analog mirror controls in a car to shift the lens. The best part is the fine tuning with the digital positioning within the menu, and controlled by the controller.
The blues on the Epson 8350 seemed washed out, however on this Panasonic model the blues were extremely vibrant, as well as all the other colors.
The brightness is very bright on (normal) mode. I had to dial it down to Eco mode, but we had all our lights on and didn't notice them until 1/2 way through the movie. We had to turn them off for the Epson.
Noise - The startup lens movement is a lot quieter than the Epson, and the fan sound is quiet during eco mode. Note: My Epson projectors had 4 "auto iris errors" all on new separate units, and during these errors the motor noise would increase at startup.
Dynamic lighting - On my Epson it had to be turned off, the delay was intolerable. As soon as a scene changed from dark to light or vise versa the projector would dim/brighten the scene with a slight delay. However the Panasonic dynamic lighting is not noticable and is instant, giving you darker dark's and brighter brights in real time.

*Cons:*
There is some noticeable grain in the picture, which wasn't on the Epsons. I can live with this and maybe adjust my picture sharpness.
The Bulb is almost twice as expensive as the Epson. Right now the Panasonic bulb costs around $300. This is a newer model so hopefully in a year it should go down in price.
Bulb life is around 2000 on normal because the projector is so bright, but you can get around 3000 on eco mode. The Epson 8350 claims 4000, however everyone I know that already replaced bulbs, and the Epson support staff are also aware that bulbs are dying around 2500 hrs.
The projector width size is a lot larger, not a concern for me, but might be for some.
The manual is basically a startup guide. No instructions on how to replace the bulb or clean the filter. it's pretty much useless for troubleshooting and maintenance.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22377118
> 
> 
> The manual is basically a startup guide. No instructions on how to replace the bulb or clean the filter. it's pretty much useless for troubleshooting and maintenance.



Steven, as you'll eventually discover the complete manual is on the CD-ROM that came with your projector. It's a pain I know but it seems many manufacturers are going the paperless route nowadays.


It can also be downloaded from the Panasonic website.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22366516
> 
> 
> They used the BB warranty to replace the bulb. So I couldnt use the BB warranty for future bulb replacements. Everything I have read says the epson warranty doesnt transfer,...is this correct? So how does it work if the unit was not registered with epson? I offered $550. They said they would take no less than $700. I replied back that I would split the difference and make ith $625. They claim that someone is coming on friday to look at it. and would give them $700. Find that odd cause in over an months time I am the very first to actually stop and look at it. I think they are bluffing. What is bulb replacement costs these days. I am seeing anywhere from $275 to $75 for ebay lamps. What are average repair costs. Can you buy a warranty on used projectors? Thanks for the info, greatly appreciate it.


If the original owner didn't register the projector AND never made a warranty claim ith Epson, you should be ok.

Make sure to get the store name and location in which they purchased the projector because Epson will ask when you make a claim to cross reference the SN# with the store to make sure they were an authorized dealer.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22377267
> 
> 
> Steven, as you'll eventually discover the complete manual is on the CD-ROM that came with your projector. It's a pain I know but it seems many manufacturers are going the paperless route nowadays.
> 
> It can also be downloaded from the Panasonic website.



Thanks man, looked it up last night. Yeah the CD is a pain to look up stuff quickly, but atleast we have Ctrl F to search.


I'm loving the color adjustments on the Panasonic. You can use the waveform and have it analyze the colors and autocorrect it. I just need a calibration blu-ray. Can anyone recommend a good one?


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7350#post_22372976
> 
> 
> I dont know if it is transferrable. I would assume if you had the persons name and if something did go wrong and just gave your name as the original owners and they supplied you with a copy of reciept i dont think there would be any issues. When i returned mine they simply asked when it was bought and sent me a box. On the other hand. I would call there bluff. Everyone wants the most for their product. I would contact them and tell them ok understand. If it doesnt sell then you have my information give me a call. Id bet they call you within the week.



As i suspected the other potential buyer, couldnt afford it. They said 650 now. Think i will hold at 625. As i continue to research.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Well I am an official 8350 owner now!!! We agreed at $625. Transferring the BB warranty was a breeze. Got the BB warranty til 5/2015. Also it looks like it was never registered or had any claims on the Epson warranty that was good til 5/2013. I am pretty pumped. With the added BB warranty feel like i made a great buy on a projector at basically half price. I greatly appreciate everyone's input, it helped my decision. Now I need to get my basement finished so i can enjoy it..................


----------



## MississippiMan

Well cool beans! It's always great to hear about a fellow member getting a great deal. Just make carefel note of the condition of the bulb in the projector and be certain to avail yourself of the Epson bulb replacement that is available to you should the need arise.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Will do. Thanks.


----------



## wowyahoo

Hey,


Where is the cheapest place to get an OEM bulb? Thanks


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wowyahoo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22385806
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Where is the cheapest place to get an OEM bulb? Thanks



eBay


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wowyahoo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22385806
> 
> 
> Where is the cheapest place to get an OEM bulb? Thanks


I think the trick might be getting a real Epson bulb and not a cheap knock-off (grey market, china clone, etc.).

 

Epson.com sells ELPLP49 (V13H010L49) for $300.

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/ProductQuickSpec.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=63079290&category=Products

 

B&H Photo sells ELPLP49 (V13H010L49) for $235.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605594-REG/Epson_V13H010L49_E_TORL_Projector_Lamp_for.html

 

Personally, I'm not sure who else I would trust ... another Authorized Epson dealer maybe.


----------



## Toe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22384383
> 
> 
> Well I am an official 8350 owner now!!! We agreed at $625. Transferring the BB warranty was a breeze. Got the BB warranty til 5/2015. Also it looks like it was never registered or had any claims on the Epson warranty that was good til 5/2013. I am pretty pumped. With the added BB warranty feel like i made a great buy on a projector at basically half price. I greatly appreciate everyone's input, it helped my decision. Now I need to get my basement finished so i can enjoy it..................



Damn! Nice!







If I could find one for that price, I would snatch it in a second!


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22380655
> 
> 
> I just need a calibration blu-ray. Can anyone recommend a good one?



Head over the Display Calibration forum and look for the AVS HD 709. It's free for the downloading.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/139/display-calibration 


If you'd rather buy one I'd recommend either the Spears and Munsil disc

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1131344/high-definition-benchmark-bd-edition-by-stacey-spears-and-don-munsil 


Or the Disney WOW disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1303667/disneys-wow-world-of-wonder-blu-ray-official-avsforum-review


----------



## sschantz

I currently have my Epson 8350 on Econo mode with Living room set. I somewhat like th colors, not too bright/dim BUT I don't see too much of a difference between regular DVD and Blu, basically factory setting....


I know this is all personal perception but can some of you share your settings??


----------



## motorcitymancave

How much is the seymour xd screen matierial these days? Was looking to do the same awhile ago..actually a 135" screen


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22377118
> 
> 
> So after the 4th failed Epson 8350 debacle I recieved my full refund from Epson (Yay Epson support!) and I purchased the Panasonic PT-AR100U. I just recieved the Panasonic last night and installed it. Here's my quick review for anyone that is deciding on another projector besides the Epson 8350 in its pricerange. Please note I did not adjust the color settings yet, Everything's default out of box.


Nice to read your comparison. It's several months too late for me. I was buying my 8350 right when the AR100U came out and was hemming and hawing about that one, but there were no user reviews to go off of. I've been very happy with my 8350, though I do have a bluish dust blob on my screen. I'm hesitant to speak of it, though, because I haven't even attempted to see if it might just be a bit of dust on the *outside* of the lens. I only see it when the projector starts up with a black background. Like I said, I'm hoping to discover that it's just a bit of dust on the outside of the lens, anyway.


In other news...I think I *am* going to go ahead and get a larger wider screen. I currently have a 92" diagonal 16:9 Da-Lite High-Power (old model) pull-down (usually left down). I moved my movie room down to my living room a while ago. The room is not optimal for light. The walls are white and there are some windows without any coverings, plus it's got an open loft above with skylights. I plan to improve on all of those things, but in the mean time, at night, it still looks very, very good. And, even in the day, I can pull off watching football or other bright, highly saturated shows.


I've tested out zooming out the projector at night and projecting the overrage onto the walls, so as to simulate what it would be like having a really large screen. I've simulated a 120" wide screen, and it still looks good to me. So I'm going to go with a new Da-Lite High-Power pull-down 2.35:1 screen near that 120" width (possibly a bit smaller).


Over the next month or so, we're planning on painting the walls (a creamy gold tone, so not super-dark, but it will be a big improvement over the white) as well as replace our nearly-white carpet with a much darker grayish-brown, as well as deal with the windows that currently lack any shades.


I partially bring this up because there are some people who will talk others out of going with "too big" of a screen, because projector X may lack enough brightness to deal with it. Technically, the 8350 at the screen size I'm talking about and with my room issues is probably not considered up-to-snuff in terms of the amount of lumens it has but, like I said, I've already tested it out and it looked plenty watchable to me. IMO, I'm willing to deal with less-than-optimal lumens in exchange for a really, really big screen. After all, isn't the whole point of buying a projector over a flatscreen TV to get a really big image?


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22393226
> 
> 
> I currently have my Epson 8350 on Econo mode with Living room set. I somewhat like th colors, not too bright/dim BUT I don't see too much of a difference between regular DVD and Blu, basically factory setting....
> 
> I know this is all personal perception but can some of you share your settings??


You're saying that you don't see much of a difference between DVD and Blu-ray in terms of detail/resolution? How large is your screen and how close are you sitting from it?


----------



## mazdaparts

Hi, I just purchased a new 8350 after much research and was happy to find this forum. I should have it on Monday. Hopefully my basement will be finished shortly thereafter. I'm turning it into a family/theater room. I already have a new 106" manual screen. The main room will be about 23' x 16' with no windows and really good light control. I need to get a mount that will drop the projector atleast 13" from the floor joists to the below the drop ceiling.

I have read and picked up a lot of info from you guys and hopefully can find more answers by searching or asking. I'm not the typical videophile, more of a movie/tv enjoyer. I will have directv, bluray, and xbox 360 for sources.

Any tips or recommendations you might have, please share them.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22397220
> 
> 
> Nice to read your comparison. It's several months too late for me. I was buying my 8350 right when the AR100U came out and was hemming and hawing about that one, but there were no user reviews to go off of. I've been very happy with my 8350, though I do have a bluish dust blob on my screen. I'm hesitant to speak of it, though, because I haven't even attempted to see if it might just be a bit of dust on the *outside* of the lens. I only see it when the projector starts up with a black background. Like I said, I'm hoping to discover that it's just a bit of dust on the outside of the lens, anyway.
> 
> In other news...I think I *am* going to go ahead and get a larger wider screen. I currently have a 92" diagonal 16:9 Da-Lite High-Power (old model) pull-down (usually left down). I moved my movie room down to my living room a while ago. The room is not optimal for light. The walls are white and there are some windows without any coverings, plus it's got an open loft above with skylights. I plan to improve on all of those things, but in the mean time, at night, it still looks very, very good. And, even in the day, I can pull off watching football or other bright, highly saturated shows.....



I'm glad to hear you're going to 120". With my setup I wanted big just exactly the same reason you pointed out. we bought projectors to go past 100" for a responable price. If you have the wall why not do it!

Currently i'm running a 123" custom screen with theatre paint that gives me 1.0 lumens Here's the link to the DIY theatre paint . The border was custom made with your standard foot molding and flat black paint. Reason why I did this is I have a 1 year old who will probably eventually draw on the wall and it's cheaper and easier to paint over it, then buying a new screen.


Here's a pic of my setup  


Overall i'm very happy with the Panasonic. I was very happy with the Epson 8350 (when it worked) it met my expectations. The experience of having two different brands is good to know and I love the $100 of more added features the Panasonic came with. Especially the 25% digital screen alignment for tweaking the fine alignment, which is somewhat an issue with the Epson. Those wheels had so much play, i'd always overshoot my position.


I'd like to see a pic of your final setup once completed


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22393226
> 
> 
> I currently have my Epson 8350 on Econo mode with Living room set. I somewhat like th colors, not too bright/dim BUT I don't see too much of a difference between regular DVD and Blu, basically factory setting....
> 
> I know this is all personal perception but can some of you share your settings??


Personally, I think there are too many variables (lighting, content tech, screen material/color, etc.) to share settings. It's really just what you (possibly with help of calibration disc) think looks best. Try different kinds of content.

 

This is what I did ... don't limit yourself to just basic Color Modes

I setup 3 Memory settings, one for each time of day (taking a clue from Epson's Color Modes). I would say my light control in the living room is only average.

1. Day

2. Dusk

3. Night

 

For each, I select a basic Color Mode, Normal/ECO, or fine tune any other setting. Save it.

 

When I turn on projector, I select one. 60% of the time, I just leave it on "2.Dusk". If you have a Harmony remote, add them to the Activity Screen with their names. Each plays a little Macro.

 

I am running mine to 8ft.diag screen, via HDMI (are you)? DVDs produce a nice watchable (but softer) picture ... Blu-Rays are sharper and more vivid.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22398875
> 
> 
> I'm glad to hear you're going to 120".


Actually, I was off a bit. It will be a 116" wide screen (2.35:1 aspect ratio, so viewable height will be about 49.5", which is 4.5" more than my current 16:9 45"x80" screen).


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22398875
> 
> 
> I'd like to see a pic of your final setup once completed


Thanks. I started a thread a while back, but no one replied to it. Here it is:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1410740/sraulys-post-beam-house-living-room-theater 


Please do comment there.


----------



## J Borsh

Anyone know if EPSON has sealed light engines? It's been a while since posting my last comment to AVS, but my Sanyo Z2 is finally starting to grow dim. I've had issues with dust blobs in my basement setup, so I'm hesitant to purchase a new unit without a sealed engine.


I'm looking at 8350.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J Borsh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22400098
> 
> 
> Anyone know if EPSON has sealed light engines?


My understanding is that it does *not*, which is why some (many?) have had dust blobs introduced over time. What I find odd is that they just announced the 2012 (2013?) line-up of new projectors, which basically consists of the same 3D projectors they had with some minor spec bumps, but it looks like the 8350 is being carried over as-is. Reading this forum thread, I'm left with the impression that the 8350 could be a warranty nightmare for them, so you'd think they would have updated the design to seal things up better. But the flip side may be that the problems posted about here are a very small minority and most people may be unaffected.


----------



## J Borsh

Thanks. Not what I am hoping to hear! I noticed the 8350 will be untouched for 2013, based on CEDIA announcements from EPSON. That's a bit disappointing! They're pushing 3020/5020 pretty hard, but the entry model isn't getting any updates. The website teases the older 8700UB, but I can only find them refurbished. That one had the ultra black designation.


Dust blobs are an issue for me. Maybe the Panny is a better choice. They used to make their earlier projectors with sealed engines. I wonder if they've carried that through to their new models too?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J Borsh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22400098
> 
> 
> Anyone know if EPSON has sealed light engines? It's been a while since posting my last comment to AVS, but my Sanyo Z2 is finally starting to grow dim. I've had issues with dust blobs in my basement setup, so I'm hesitant to purchase a new unit without a sealed engine.
> 
> I'm looking at 8350.



J Borsh, I've had to return 2 different 8350's that had dust blobs, both showed up around 600 hours. Currently I have around 400 and no blobs yet, but I'm fully expecting to see one here sometime soon. It's a shame, I love the picture. On the bright side, I keep getting a new bulb when I have to get a replacement.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22397229
> 
> 
> You're saying that you don't see much of a difference between DVD and Blu-ray in terms of detail/resolution? How large is your screen and how close are you sitting from it?



I have a 96" Carada and sit about 11 ft directly in front. I am thinking about buying the Disney WOW DVD to try and Calibrate but again would love to see what others settings are to compare and contrast.


I am also using a Monoprice 25ft cord, wondering if I should step up to a blue jeans one to see if there is any difference.


----------



## RTROSE

^^^^I don't think it is your cable unless you are seeing "sparklies" or you're experiencing blocking or dropouts. I know with my setup that I can tell HD from SD but there is a lot to be said for the source material, the quality of transfer, your settings, and your player. I have the Oppo 93 and it is an excellent upconverter and with a excellent quality DVD say a Pixar offering it is very near HD in appearance, but as they say the devil is in the details. Some of the improvements are to use an old cliche night and day, but some of the differences can be subtle such as in close ups with HD seeing the skins imperfections pores eye lashes etc etc. So there are many factors in what you "see" in the difference between SD and HD. I will also say that the bigger your screen is the more difference you will immediately perceive. I can even tell a subtle difference between OTA HD and the DISH HD of the same channel it is small but it is there. I also second your suggestion of getting a calibration disc and getting your system dialed in.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22406763
> 
> 
> ^^^^I don't think it is your cable unless you are seeing "sparklies" or you're experiencing blocking or dropouts. I know with my setup that I can tell HD from SD but there is a lot to be said for the source material, the quality of transfer, your settings, and your player. I have the Oppo 93 and it is an excellent upconverter and with a excellent quality DVD say a Pixar offering it is very near HD in appearance, but as they say the devil is in the details. Some of the improvements are to use an old cliche night and day, but some of the differences can be subtle such as in close ups with HD seeing the skins imperfections pores eye lashes etc etc. So there are many factors in what you "see" in the difference between SD and HD. I will also say that the bigger your screen is the more difference you will immediately perceive. I can even tell a subtle difference between OTA HD and the DISH HD of the same channel it is small but it is there. I also second your suggestion of getting a calibration disc and getting your system dialed in.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> RTROSE



Thx for the reply. No dropouts at all with the cable. I have one of the original sony blu players from 2009. Maybe i jus have bad eye sight where the upconverted is looking almost as good as a blu disc. I am on the hunt for the disney wow so stay tuned.


My next question, can I add a new preset to the projector do do I change one of the pre-existing?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22403395
> 
> 
> J Borsh, I've had to return 2 different 8350's that had dust blobs, both showed up around 600 hours. Currently I have around 400 and no blobs yet, but I'm fully expecting to see one here sometime soon. It's a shame, I love the picture. On the bright side, I keep getting a new bulb when I have to get a replacement.



Right on cue... Last night I noticed a green dust blob yet again. I'm not even phased by it at this point as I fully expected it.


----------



## sschantz

Is a dust blob something you see during a movie? When i first fire up my Epson there is a grayish bubble shadow but it disappears when a movie is on


----------



## carp

For now you can only see it when the screen is completely dark, but eventually I'll be able to see it in lighter scenes too if it's like the other blobs I had with other units.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7400_100#post_22406788
> 
> 
> Thx for the reply. No dropouts at all with the cable. I have one of the original sony blu players from 2009. Maybe i jus have bad eye sight where the upconverted is looking almost as good as a blu disc. I am on the hunt for the disney wow so stay tuned.
> 
> My next question, can I add a new preset to the projector do do I change one of the pre-existing?



You should be able to load a new set of preferences by using the disc setting the things the way you want, hit the memory button and save the settings. Then when you want to use them just hit the memory button and select "Load Memory".



Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## srauly

Just out of curiosity...do you need to return a warranty card or register it online? I never got around to looking into that, but I'm worried about all the talk of dust blobs, especially since I have a mild blue one myself.


----------



## lespurgeon

OK,

I've recently been getting a loud "clunk" with eery start-up. I'm thinking iris (I have auto-iris off). I get the auto-iris error about 1 in 20 start-ups. I don't have huge hours on this in the last year ~300 or so and think it is only a matter of time 'till the iris goes. Mine has good convergence and no weird colors - so I am dreading sending it in. What do you all think? What is the forum's experience? Is it only a matter of time?


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J Borsh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7380#post_22400098
> 
> 
> Anyone know if EPSON has sealed light engines? It's been a while since posting my last comment to AVS, but my Sanyo Z2 is finally starting to grow dim. I've had issues with dust blobs in my basement setup, so I'm hesitant to purchase a new unit without a sealed engine.
> 
> I'm looking at 8350.



The Epson Tier 3 Tech support analyst told me directly that they do no have sealed light engines. You will get dust eventually, depends how dusty the environment is. He said that the filter catches most of the dust but not all.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22408203
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> I've recently been getting a loud "clunk" with eery start-up. I'm thinking iris (I have auto-iris off). I get the auto-iris error about 1 in 20 start-ups. I don't have huge hours on this in the last year ~300 or so and think it is only a matter of time 'till the iris goes. Mine has good convergence and no weird colors - so I am dreading sending it in. What do you all think? What is the forum's experience? Is it only a matter of time?



I went through 4 Epson 8350's because of Auto Iris errors. They will continue to increase. Best to call Epson support if your not out of warranty.


----------



## Archaea

my latest one is doing this too. I get clunking the whole time though. It's audible through a movie. It still seems to work, and I've only had the auto iris error message twice, but everything else is fine on this one and this is after multiple exchanges -- so I too dread sending this mostly working unit back.


I think the next return I'm going to ask Epson for a refund or a trade up (and I'll offer to pay the difference for something like the 8700ub)


----------



## monkaquinas

Well, I turned on my nearly 2 year old (~800hrs) 8350 last nite and I was greeted by the dreaded Auto-Iris error. I let it sit a bit then powered off and had to wait while the Fan ran on high with the lamp and temp indicator lit. I unplugged for a couple of mins and then plugged it back and powered up after a couple more mins and it came up fine. I do have the iris set to high and changed it to normal last nite. I was able to call Epson Support with about 10 mins till 8PM, their closing time. The guy was very nice and pulled up my info with my phone number, I did online registration when I purchased it. He gave me a Reference # and said I can call back if I continue to get this. Based on what I've read here, I can expect more and more of these events which will drive my wife nuts but she's glad it's under warranty and we can get it replaced.


Has anyone received a new model replacement for their old 8350 from Epson? If so, what model did you get and how do you like it? I'd like to be prepared in case this turns south quickly.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22412891
> 
> 
> my latest one is doing this too. I get clunking the whole time though. It's audible through a movie. It still seems to work, and I've only had the auto iris error message twice, but everything else is fine on this one and this is after multiple exchanges -- so I too dread sending this mostly working unit back.
> 
> I think the next return I'm going to ask Epson for a refund or a trade up (and I'll offer to pay the difference for something like the 8700ub)



They'll refuse a trade up. I tried. The only thing they were able to do for me was a full refund. If you can get an upgrade go for it, otherwise go with another brand. These shouldn't break after such low usage.


----------



## Maligx

Just ordered a refurb off epson for $849. They have the 15% off coupon going again. "WOW15"


----------



## note235




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Maligx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22417620
> 
> 
> Just ordered a refurb off epson for $849. They have the 15% off coupon going again. "WOW15"


would you recommend this for $829 or the hd20 for $630 refurb?


----------



## Maligx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *note235*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22417783
> 
> 
> would you recommend this for $829 or the hd20 for $630 refurb?



Not too sure on he HD20, I've concentrated my research on the 8350 and have been avoiding DLP due to the rainbow effect although I hear it is much better now. My first projector I've ever owned was the infocus X1 and the rainbow was annoying. On a side note is it just me or does this forum have trouble registering keystrokes.


----------



## Chezteladog

I bought a refurb 8350 last night. Today EPson has the 6500ub refurb for the same price. Should I try and cancel the 8350 and go for the 6500? I'm trying to research this but I'm limited in the time I can do that and I don't want to miss an opportunity if this is a better one than I got last night...


I'm going to be setting it up in my living room rather than a dedicated theater and using an HTPC and AVR. From what I've read so far the 6500 has better black levels but it's also a couple of years older. What about reliability or other factors. They both have lens shift which is a big sellling point to me.


thanks.


----------



## Shivan85

Hi guys, i'm very glad I ran into this forum. So I have a problem I've just encountered 4 days ago...


My projector currently has 2597Hrs on it. I've been running it on "Natural" color mode swapping evenly from Eco and Normal mode.

I use my projector a lot and even as a computer screen so, yeah I do use it way more than the average person would.


Here's the problem... It is now a lot more dimmer than it was before. I've even tried raising the brightness like 10 notches and it just looks... well weird... I've tried Dynamic or Living Room which yea makes it brighter... but still not as bright like it was even on Natural mode before the problem. I haven't really troubleshooted this yet, I was thinking of these steps:


1) Connect HDMI directly to my pc

2) Try a different HDMI cable or use a VGA

3) Connect power cable to a different outlet

4) Replace Lamp..


Any input or suggestions would help... or maybe i should just call Epson? I've been reading a lot about how great their service is.


Thanks guys!


----------



## kevinwoodward

I assume now you have tried the first 3 since they are very quick tests.


I am shocked you got that many hours out of your bulb

I imagine that's the problem...


----------



## mazdaparts

I just got done watching my first movie and all I can say is, why did I wait so long to do this? Being my first projector it took me a bit to get it adjust correctly to fit the screen, and I haven't done anything to the projector other than putting it in eco mode. Colors are great, skin tone is amazing, the clarity and definition for a 106" picture just blows me away. I even watched some racing on speedtv, caught a bit of DOOM on spike, and watched a little of blue planet on Discovery.


----------



## runcliffyrun

That's what I thought when I first got mine - why doesn't everybody have one of these?


----------



## srauly

Has anyone experimented with the Overscan options? Last night I watched my first movie on my new 2.35:1 screen (technically, it's a 2.343 ratio - it's 49.5" x 116"). The movie (Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban) is listed on IMDB as 2.35:1 and I was worried to find that I could only *just barely* get it to zoom to fit the height of my screen exactly. I had heard from others that even with a 2.40:1 movie, you could typically zoom to fit the height and just have a an inch or less that might need to spill onto the side black borders. Now, as it turns out, Blu-ray.com lists this movie as actually being in a 2.40:1 ratio. Again, though, if I zoom it to my screen height of 49.5" that should mean a width of 118.8". My screen has a 116" width, so that means I should need 1.4" of overscan on each side, and I'm pretty sure that my black borders are 3" wide, so that shouldn't have been a problem.


Anyways, back to the 8350's Overscan settings...After watching the movie, I started poking around and found that setting. If memory serves, it defaults to "Off" but you can increase the numbers. It *seemed* like doing so resulted in my movie image's width staying exactly the same, but new (?) image information appeared on the top/bottom (i.e., the height increased). So, is the "Off" setting actually cropping real information? Or is using one of the non-Off setting stretching the height of the same information that was already being shown? If the former, I'm thinking that this could be great for me, since I could have re-zoomed the image to fit the now-taller-height and it would have allowed me to bring in the width spillover.


----------



## carp

Interesting, I never knew it had that option I'll have to check it out. Sorry I'm not help for your question...


----------



## srauly

When doing some Googling on Overscan, I found a couple of comments which indicated that using Overscan features on a projector was undesirable as it messes up pixel accuracy. This would suggest that it's actually doing some sort of stretching. But these comments weren't specific to the Epson 8350, so maybe it's doing something different. I'll have to do some testing later to see what it's actually doing.


----------



## kriktsemaj99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22425988
> 
> 
> When doing some Googling on Overscan, I found a couple of comments which indicated that using Overscan features on a projector was undesirable as it messes up pixel accuracy. This would suggest that it's actually doing some sort of stretching. But these comments weren't specific to the Epson 8350, so maybe it's doing something different. I'll have to do some testing later to see what it's actually doing.


Overscan is doing a digital zoom on the image so something will be lost on all 4 sides, it's as simple as that. And there will be a slight loss of image quality because of the scaling, but it's not really that noticable on (depending on how well the projector does the scaling).


With a 2.35:1 movie you only had the black bars at the top and bottom, so as you noticed it just appears that the picture (which occupies less than 1080 lines) gets taller. It's one way to make 'scope movies fit your screen exactly when their aspect ratio is a bit too wide, but the tradeoff is a bit of the picture lost at the sides plus the loss of 1:1 pixel mapping. It's great having a 2.35 screen for 'scope movies, but unfortunately they don't all have exactly the same aspect ratio so you can't make them all fit without some tradeoff or other.


----------



## wbglider

Have had the 8350 for almost a year now, and someone used it to project a static image (text). Now I have a faint image burn of that text that can been seen while playing a movie. I've heard of rare instances of this kind of thing happening, but would appreciate any feedback...


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbglider*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22426509
> 
> 
> Have had the 8350 for almost a year now, and someone used it to project a static image (text). Now I have a faint image burn of that text that can been seen while playing a movie. I've heard of rare instances of this kind of thing happening, but would appreciate any feedback...


Try running the solid image slides intended for plasma "even burn-in" ... that should exercise the pixels and even everything out.

 

So much for hoping these new fangled (organic ?) LCD panels don't have any IR (Image Retention) tendencies.

 

I've seen IR happen on a nice IPS-LCD based computer monitor also. Solid color slides rotation (for 20 minutes) fixed it ... so I'm more careful now.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbglider*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22426509
> 
> 
> Have had the 8350 for almost a year now, and someone used it to project a static image (text). Now I have a faint image burn of that text that can been seen while playing a movie. I've heard of rare instances of this kind of thing happening, but would appreciate any feedback...



That has happened to me before too, it went away in a couple days of regular tv watching.


----------



## sschantz

So I cut the chord thus having to retunr my cable box that was hooked up to my Epson 8350. Has anyone purchased an off air type receiver device to get basic channels? Would still love to watch some real time Football and ABC/NBC....


Thanks in advance!


----------



## wbglider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22426935
> 
> 
> Try running the solid image slides intended for plasma "even burn-in" ... that should exercise the pixels and even everything out.
> 
> 
> So much for hoping these new fangled (organic ?) LCD panels don't have any IR (Image Retention) tendencies.
> 
> 
> I've seen IR happen on a nice IPS-LCD based computer monitor also. Solid color slides rotation (for 20 minutes) fixed it ... so I'm more careful now.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22427339
> 
> 
> That has happened to me before too, it went away in a couple days of regular tv watching.



Thanks guys! Will report back on the results. A good lesson for everyone.


----------



## mpkid123

My Epson 8350 was working fine until this weekend. I am seeing what looks like a perfectly round faint green light - it looks almost like a green flashlight light beam. I only see it when the projector picture is all black but I do not see it when viewing content. It is located in the upper right hand corner. Any ideas to what this may be?


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mpkid123*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22428646
> 
> 
> My Epson 8350 was working fine until this weekend. I am seeing what looks like a perfectly round faint green light - it looks almost like a green flashlight light beam. I only see it when the projector picture is all black but I do not see it when viewing content. It is located in the upper right hand corner. Any ideas to what this may be?



dust blob?


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7410#post_22427695
> 
> 
> So I cut the chord thus having to retunr my cable box that was hooked up to my Epson 8350. Has anyone purchased an off air type receiver device to get basic channels? Would still love to watch some real time Football and ABC/NBC....
> 
> Thanks in advance!



We cut the cord about a year ago. We use the Channel master CM=7000PAL. There are a couple options for OTA DVR's out there.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mpkid123*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22428646
> 
> 
> My Epson 8350 was working fine until this weekend. I am seeing what looks like a perfectly round faint green light - it looks almost like a green flashlight light beam. I only see it when the projector picture is all black but I do not see it when viewing content. It is located in the upper right hand corner. Any ideas to what this may be?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22428659
> 
> 
> dust blob?



If it is a "dust blob", you should be able to use the focus to make it sharper in appearance. That will help determine it's something actually in the assembly, or something wrong with the optics/panels.


Some discussion on cleaning it. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/3300


----------



## mpkid123

Thanks! I will try that tonight. I am concerned that it may not be a dust blob because it is perfectly round.


----------



## pinoyrukus

Hey guys I usually don't post but lurk on this site but I'm kind on the fence. I've been looking at the 8350 for a while and was actually waiting for the replacement model that never came at cedia 12. This projector pretty much fit the bill for me (has lens shift) but it's almost 2yrs old and I don't want to buy and then all of a sudden a replacement comes out that's better. I can either wait it out and use my 58"'plasma for now or just buy it at best buy for 1170 3yrs no interest.


----------



## coderguy

The Epson 3010 (and now 3020) was the closest thing to an Epson 8350 replacement. Due to the push in 3D, it's doubtful (but not impossible) they will have a DIRECT non-3D replacement to the Epson 8350 ever again.


----------



## pinoyrukus

I was going to go with the 3020 but there's no lens shift and i don't want spend another grand just to get it. :/ I don't necessarily need 3D but wouldn't mind having it.


----------



## curtlots

I just experienced the first problem with my 8350 last night and I'm not at all happy!










I was watching Monday Night Football last night and my projector stopped showing what apparently was happening live. I don't know how else to explain it. It happened on the last play of the game. The refs called a touchdown, but my projector clearly showed an interception. How can a projector not display what actually happened? My 8350 is still under warranty, do you think Epson will replace it?


----------



## stickboy2k

Oh man, you totally got me with that one.


I just ordered my Epson 8350 yesterday and I am paranoid!


Anyhoo, as I said, I am waiting for my projector and just wondering are there any first steps I should take when setting it up?

I saw the adjustments on the review at projectorcentral are there any other burn-in procedures or anything I need to be concerned with?


Happy to finally bump up to 1080P in my psuedo-man-cave.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22432462
> 
> 
> I just experienced the first problem with my 8350 last night and I'm not at all happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was watching Monday Night Football last night and my projector stopped showing what apparently was happening live. I don't know how else to explain it. It happened on the last play of the game. The refs called a touchdown, but my projector clearly showed an interception. How can a projector not display what actually happened? My 8350 is still under warranty, do you think Epson will replace it?



Haha, nice. My Epson had the same exact problem.


Seriously, is it really about money at this point? It has to be all about power and not wanting to swallow pride. I'd be ticked if I were a Packers fan.


----------



## Dolfin

Hey everyone,

Long time member. long time lurker finally decided to make a post to see if any of you can help.


I am the proud owner of an 8350 which I use almost exclusively for gaming (xbox and rarely for ps3).

It is on a stand in the back of the room about 12' from my screen. I have a 120" screen.


I have tested this so many times I'm about to pull my hair out.


Problem:

1/2 the time when the projector completes its power on process it will fill 100% of the screen.

1/2 of the time the projector will leave about 12" on both sides.


It doesn't matter if I power on the projector before the xbox, xbox before the projector, what cable I use, how many live chickens I sacrifice.... sometimes it's full like it should be, sometimes I get the damn sidebars.


I've tried to search and I get nothing. Since I'm using HDMI my aspect is of course locked.

Please... for the love of God.. someone help me.


PS: Just to clarify, this is all happening in the absence of content. This is not a format issue. Sometimes when I turn on the projector I get a 100% filled blue screen (which makes me super happy), sometimes I get a blue screen that the top and bottom are off the screen and I have to back off the zoom to get top and bottom back in the frame... which leaves me with the black bars on the sides (makes me want to break and smash things).


----------



## Unseenthings

I just wanted to throw out there that I bought my 8350 shortly after release in late 2010 I believe. I have 2460 hours on it, using it for a few hours every day watching netflix, as it is our only tv, and we cut the cord almost 2 years ago. Never had a problem. It has been getting dim for a while I'm sure, but it's finally at the point this week that that it got me out on the web to check prices on bulbs and hour life, etc. Seeing that I'm not close to the 4000h life range, and closing in my 2 years. Well, last night as I continued to watch my ever increasingly dim movie, there was a loud pop, and I wasn't watching anything anymore. I immediately called Epson, gave them serial number and hours on bulb, (2460), they made a case number and told me to call back the next day when advanced parts replacement would be open. I called back this afternoon and they authorized a free replacement that should be here by end of the week. Nice, easy, and painless process. I didn’t have to ask for a free replacement, let alone beg, it was simply offered. However, I did start my conversation off with, “I know you had problems with the original lamp manufacturer causing you to switch, and mine just went prematurely. To this they agreed, but interjected that most went between 500 and 700 hours. I said I was really careful with startup, shutdown and run times. Thought I would share.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7400_100#post_22432462
> 
> 
> I just experienced the first problem with my 8350 last night and I'm not at all happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was watching Monday Night Football last night and my projector stopped showing what apparently was happening live. I don't know how else to explain it. It happened on the last play of the game. The refs called a touchdown, but my projector clearly showed an interception. How can a projector not display what actually happened? My 8350 is still under warranty, do you think Epson will replace it?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7400_100#post_22432840
> 
> 
> Haha, nice. My Epson had the same exact problem.
> 
> Seriously, is it really about money at this point? It has to be all about power and not wanting to swallow pride. I'd be ticked if I were a Packers fan.



Actually I think your units are broken as my Epson CLEARLY showed a TD.....Don't know what all the fuss was about it clearly was the greatest reception in football history. Go 'Hawks.










J/K of course, but it is getting to the point of being detrimental to the game and being a distraction to what is supposed to be an "enjoyable" TV watching experience. It really is bad when the commentators spend more time talking about the officiating than they do about the game play on the field. In a way though I do feel bad for the replacement Refs as they were basically set up for failure from the gitgo. Nothing like trial by fire in front of a world wide audience. No pressure at all!


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RTROSE*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22434501
> 
> 
> Actually I think your units are broken as my Epson CLEARLY showed a TD.....Don't know what all the fuss was about it clearly was the greatest reception in football history. Go 'Hawks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/K of course, but it is getting to the point of being detrimental to the game and being a distraction to what is supposed to be an "enjoyable" TV watching experience. It really is bad when the commentators spend more time talking about the officiating than they do about the game play on the field. In a way though I do feel bad for the replacement Refs as they were basically set up for failure from the gitgo. Nothing like trial by fire in front of a world wide audience. No pressure at all!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> RTROSE



Yes, we're calling it the immaculate touchception around these parts.







You make some good points though. Watching football this year has been a chore at best. Hopefully what happened Monday night will help to expedite a change.


Meanwhile, my 8350 has been performing flawlessly again.










Stickboy2k, you may want to check post #7191 for some settings. I know it's not the best idea to use settings obtained by someone else, but you can only do so much with a calibration disc like WOW if you don't have the other equipment to do a full calibration. I'm using these settings, and they do match what I get from the WOW disc, at least for basic settings such as brightness, contrast, color saturation, and tint. I have no idea how to do the Gamma, RGB, and RGBCMY without spending a lot of money on more equipment, so I'm using the settings noted in post 7191 for these. Good luck with your purchase. Please let us know what you think, once you get it up and running.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoyrukus*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22431352
> 
> 
> Hey guys I usually don't post but lurk on this site but I'm kind on the fence. I've been looking at the 8350 for a while and was actually waiting for the replacement model that never came at cedia 12. This projector pretty much fit the bill for me (has lens shift) but it's almost 2yrs old and I don't want to buy and then all of a sudden a replacement comes out that's better. I can either wait it out and use my 58"'plasma for now or just buy it at best buy for 1170 3yrs no interest.


Well if you do not care about 3D get the 8350 while you can. If you care about PQ then get a DLP in this price range. Convergence is the problem and DLP does not have this. I have a 8350 and my Acer 9500 kills that unit in just about every area. I can sell you my 8350 if you are interested. It has very low hours.


Edit: uhm let me explain myself before getting flamed. There is a distinct difference between DLP and 3LCD. My Epson has good converegence but like all 3LCD units the picture is softer. My DLP unit is very sharp and some folks do not like this because it exposes everything in the source material. I like that, some people do not and would rather watch a smoother image. Smoother is open to interpretation. Myself, I want to see how good the source is.


----------



## pinoyrukus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22438102
> 
> 
> Well if you do not care about 3D get the 8350 while you can. If you care about PQ then get a DLP in this price range. Convergence is the problem and DLP does not have this. I have a 8350 and my Acer 9500 kills that unit in just about every area. I can sell you my 8350 if you are interested. It has very low hours.
> 
> Edit: uhm let me explain myself before getting flamed. There is a distinct difference between DLP and 3LCD. My Epson has good converegence but like all 3LCD units the picture is softer. My DLP unit is very sharp and some folks do not like this because it exposes everything in the source material. I like that, some people do not and would rather watch a smoother image. Smoother is open to interpretation. Myself, I want to see how good the source is.



Most likely I'm going to go with a 3LCD setup due to my room setup at my new house (projector will be off center on a wall unless I ceiling mount). I could of got the panny ar100u for 699 when they did that crazy markdown but it was in march and I didn't move into my house until a couple months ago







I'll just wait it out and see the 3020/3020e and see if i can just ceiling mount it (more work). The problem with me buying the 8350 right now is I don't want to pay for 2yr old technology/model.


----------



## stickboy2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22435952
> 
> 
> Stickboy2k, you may want to check post #7191 for some settings. I know it's not the best idea to use settings obtained by someone else, but you can only do so much with a calibration disc like WOW if you don't have the other equipment to do a full calibration. I'm using these settings, and they do match what I get from the WOW disc, at least for basic settings such as brightness, contrast, color saturation, and tint. I have no idea how to do the Gamma, RGB, and RGBCMY without spending a lot of money on more equipment, so I'm using the settings noted in post 7191 for these. Good luck with your purchase. Please let us know what you think, once you get it up and running.



Thanks man,


First off when I saw the box and felt how heavy it was I thought they had mistakenly sent me the wrong projector. I wasn't expecting it to be so huge.







My little X1 is like a toy poodle compared to this thing.


I wasn't sure where I was going to put the projector, but then I realized the horizontal shift perfectly compensates for the placement I have chosen.


So I put the PS3 and the 8350 into the now "projector closet" and checked the settings. I put the settings offered in this thread and sort of combined them with the recommendations in the projector central review of this projector. Within a few moments I was very pleased. Projecting from around 20 feet and gettting a 120" picture.

Also cranked up Battlefield BC2 and wipeoutHD was impressed.


I was nervous about the comments made by some that the black levels were disappointing. I have mine in cinema mode and ECO and black levels are very good. Now I am going from an Infocus X1 to this so it looks GREAT to me. Black bars are visible, but not annoying. in dark scenes, I played a few in "Ninja Assassin" and thought that the darker scenes represented very well. Nearly as good as my plasma, Panny PZ85U.

I have not done any convergence tests. I may go through a calibration disc and check things out this weekend. I think I have a THX disc somewhere. I may not, though, because what I am seeing is so good and so pleasing that I may just build my world around it and be done.


This weekend I will set up the audio and primp up the media closet. Also will look for a new set of rears on the cheap. might lok at monoprice speakers.


Remaining questions:

I am using quite a bit of horizontal shift, but not seeing any picture quality issues. Should I be concerned about using Horizontal shift permenantly?


I will be putting this in a small closet with a receiver and a PS3. So I will be looking to rig up some kind of airflow system.


Lastly, DUST. Man, my basement is the most dust fre place in my house but I can see the little dust babies floating around when this thing is running. What do y'all do to prevent dust contamination? Good air filtration is so expensive...


So there, $849 for 1080P bliss and lightning speed gaming...I am happy.


----------



## Maligx

is it better to minimize throw distance or the amount of zoom? I would have complete light control.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Maligx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22440322
> 
> 
> is it better to minimize throw distance or the amount of zoom? I would have complete light control.



Using no zoom and placing the PJ to within 12-14" of the minimum distance for the size image desired will give you the sharpest,brightest, highest resolution image possible. Minimizing the amount of H &V Lens Shift needed also assures the least dregradation of image properties.


BTW....."brighter" means being able to run the PJ on low lamp mode "always" and calibrate the Image for the maximum contrast possible.


----------



## Ranger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22440645
> 
> 
> Using no zoom and placing the PJ to within 12-14" of the minimum distance for the size image desired will give you the sharpest,brightest, highest resolution image possible. Minimizing the amount of H &V Lens Shift needed also assures the least dregradation of image properties.
> 
> BTW....."brighter" means being able to run the PJ on low lamp mode "always" and calibrate the Image for the maximum contrast possible.



What is the optimum distance for 120" 16:9 with the 8350 ? Right now I have it at 16.5 ~ 17 feet away.


----------



## fjcruiser




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stickboy2k*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7440#post_22439064
> 
> 
> So there, $849 for 1080P bliss and lightning speed gaming...I am happy.



Was this a used price, or did you find a steal somewhere?


----------



## morose

Just to make sure I understand what you're saying, that means that mounting the 8350 at ~20ft from the screen (close to zero zoom) will result in a brighter picture than only mounting it ~12ft from the screen (closer to 1.7 zoom)? As a projector neophyte, this is very counter intuitive to me and the projector calculator I was using at projectorcentral.com indicates that closer is "better" for brightness so I want to make sure. Or are you speaking in absolute picture quality as opposed to pure lumens?


----------



## DIYNooBDude

Hello everyone


Im new to AVS and home theater projectors, so Im at the early stages of research. Hopefully I can use the forum and post pictures of the process along the way. One thing is for sure, Im going w/ the EPSON 8350. However, the rest is not so easy. I have not decided on the screen as I feel I dont know too much yet. Please take a look at my thread and share some light, since you guys own the projector, are best qualified to state what works and what doesnt.

Thanks!Q


----------



## DIYNooBDude

Link to thread is found here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1431281/help-too-much-info-to-process


----------



## stickboy2k

Well, I have only had the projector for a couple days and already got a "Auto Iris" Error.

Went away when I unplugged and replugged the projector.


Any advice from the experts on this? Should I call them immediately or is this something that just happens once in a while and I should ignore it?

The projector runs awesome so I don't have any other issues.


----------



## lespurgeon

Well,

I get Auto Iris error about 1 in 10 times, but am worried a replacement could be worse ( I have a good image) - so after nearly a year I am still waiting this out. If it gets worse in the next 6 months I will contact Epson.


----------



## srauly

You want to have the projector as close as possible to maximize brightness, though I don't know how noticeable of a difference it will be. I am in agreement with you that the concept of zoom is kind of confusing when dealing with projectors. When you have the projector as close as possible are you technically zooming in or zooming out? I also haven't done any experiments on this, I'm curious if positioning it closer or farther away and using lens shift has any impact on emphasizing/deemphasizing convergence issues.


----------



## MississippiMan

srauly,


Convergence issues ate always excalibrated as screen size goes up, or the employment of excessive zoom increases the distance between pixels.


It a "resolution based" sort of thing and a obvious conclusion.


----------



## TrekFX

Besides the true resolution (which is a fixed, hardware-based value), is there a "sweet spot" where there's a maximum depth-of-field (which equates to best center-to-corner focus uniformity) and minimal chromatic aberration (an optical-path phenomena affecting the color spectrum which looks like convergence problems)?


----------



## stickboy2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TrekFX*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22457313
> 
> 
> Besides the true resolution (which is a fixed, hardware-based value), is there a "sweet spot" where there's a maximum depth-of-field (which equates to best center-to-corner focus uniformity) and minimal chromatic aberration (an optical-path phenomena affecting the color spectrum which looks like convergence problems)?




You bring up a really good point. I don't understand anything you said.


----------



## mpkid123

I had dust blobs and followed the advice found at Post #7219 on this thread to open and blow out the dust blobs - and it worked!!! Be advised that the dust blobs are very stubborn to move and I had to do it twice before I got get rid of them. I figured it was better to try this before exchanging it in for a rehabbed machine from Epson.


----------



## sksahai

*Did I get a bad projector?*










Hello!


I have waited for over a year to buy an Epson 8350. Finally moved into our new home with dedicated media room. Had perfect timing with an 15% refurb coupon from Epson store, got the 8350 delivered two weeks ago. This morning, while going to set it up, I decided to plug it in and throw the test pattern before hanging the thing off the ceiling.


I have it on two boxes, at 4 feet high, throw to blank wall is 15 feet. The test pattern is completely messed up! Regular DVD movie very blurry.


From what I understand, there is no convergence adjustment.


What do I do??










Epson "private line" is not open on the weekends, and that is my only free time.


The pictures below have been taken at an angle, so that my shadow does not fall in the way.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22470765
> 
> *Did I get a bad projector?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have waited for over a year to buy an Epson 8350. Finally moved into our new home with dedicated media room. Had perfect timing with an 15% refurb coupon from Epson store, got the 8350 delivered two weeks ago. This morning, while going to set it up, I decided to plug it in and throw the test pattern before hanging the thing off the ceiling.
> 
> I have it on two boxes, at 4 feet high, throw to blank wall is 15 feet. The test pattern is completely messed up! Regular DVD movie very blurry.
> 
> From what I understand, there is no convergence adjustment.
> 
> What do I do??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson "private line" is not open on the weekends, and that is my only free time.
> 
> The pictures below have been taken at an angle, so that my shadow does not fall in the way.



u got a very bad projector

exchange it


----------



## el-georgeo

Hi Epson 8350 owners










Having read 250 pages of posts, I have observed two things that may or may not be correct.


1st is that this is an awesome HT projector in a darkened room since that's how Ill use it GREAT !


2nd Does the failure rate "seem" as bad as the many posts seem to show?


Could people with multiple failures like 4 "bad" 8350's just have something unique to their environment

that might cause the failure? Has anyone tried to determine the approximate failure % ?


Has anyone had theirs for 2 trouble free years?


Finally looking at the epson website for a refurb should I be concerned that they warranty the bulb for only 90 days?

Should I try to buy new spend $200 more but get 2000 hrs on the bulb or would it be a wash ?


Thanks in Advance


----------



## kaisergrendel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22470765
> 
> *Did I get a bad projector?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have waited for over a year to buy an Epson 8350. Finally moved into our new home with dedicated media room. Had perfect timing with an 15% refurb coupon from Epson store, got the 8350 delivered two weeks ago. This morning, while going to set it up, I decided to plug it in and throw the test pattern before hanging the thing off the ceiling.
> 
> I have it on two boxes, at 4 feet high, throw to blank wall is 15 feet. The test pattern is completely messed up! Regular DVD movie very blurry.
> 
> From what I understand, there is no convergence adjustment.
> 
> What do I do??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson "private line" is not open on the weekends, and that is my only free time.
> 
> The pictures below have been taken at an angle, so that my shadow does not fall in the way.



That is terrible, the worst convergence I've seen in this thread. Get it changed immediately!


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *el-georgeo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22471009
> 
> 
> Hi Epson 8350 owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having read 250 pages of posts, I have observed two things that may or may not be correct.
> 
> 1st is that this is an awesome HT projector in a darkened room since that's how Ill use it GREAT !
> 
> 2nd Does the failure rate "seem" as bad as the many posts seem to show?
> 
> Could people with multiple failures like 4 "bad" 8350's just have something unique to their environment
> 
> that might cause the failure? Has anyone tried to determine the approximate failure % ?
> 
> Has anyone had theirs for 2 trouble free years?
> 
> Finally looking at the epson website for a refurb should I be concerned that they warranty the bulb for only 90 days?
> 
> Should I try to buy new spend $200 more but get 2000 hrs on the bulb or would it be a wash ?
> 
> Thanks in Advance



I have had one for exactly a year now and use it regularly, has almost 700 hours on it. No problems at all, zip. Love this projector. Bought a spare bulb and have it in the closet ready to go when I need it.


----------



## RTROSE

^^^^^Another happy Epson 8350 owner here with 483 hrs and about nine months in. Just remember while many here have had very frustrating and maddening experiences here, there are many more that have ZERO issues. Many post here for suggestions, ideas, solutions to their issues so you will see what appears to be more problems and issues than you might be comfortable with, but just remember very few come here just to post "Love my PJ and I'm having no isssues".


JMHO I would spring the extra 200.00 and get the new PJ.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## el-georgeo

Thanks for the replys, It can be hard to sift thru so much ancedotal information.


I almost wonder if the stories of getting 4 "bad" epson 8350 projectors are made up.

Perhaps disgruntled Epson employees or familywith an axe to grind.


It would seem statistically astronomical to get that many defective projectors.


Given that seemingly many on here have had theirs for 1 or 2 years with NO ISSUES which indicates there is

obviousy some quality to the product,


Best Buy has a sale for 1179.99 for new which is a fairly good price, I think I'll get one.


----------



## morose

If there is something environmental (dust seems to be one of the biggest problems for this projector) I'd think that is a far more likely catalyst than any kind of anti-Epson agenda. I've only had mine up and running for a little over a week, but I can tell you that I've never experienced movies like this before. Once you get the 8350 setup, calibrated, and running normally it is pretty incredible. Sat and watched 6 hours of Blu-ray movies back to back over the weekend (Fifth Element, Princess Bride, and The Matrix) and I saw things in all 3 films that I never noticed before. Detailed patterns in costume fabrics, people doing things in the background of certain scenes... the difference between 50" of 1080p and 100" is bigger than I expected.


After having experienced this kind of viewing though, I would most likely be even more bummed out if I started having regular problems. I'm guessing I'm not alone which might explain why it's more common for folks to come here and post their woes. I was bummed to see the latest post regarding the convergence problems sksahai had for instance. Whether that was a result of poor handling during shipping or left the factory that way who knows. Hopefully the replacement unit arrives quickly and runs like a champ!


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *el-georgeo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22472858
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replys, It can be hard to sift thru so much ancedotal information.
> 
> I almost wonder if the stories of getting 4 "bad" epson 8350 projectors are made up.
> 
> Perhaps disgruntled Epson employees or familywith an axe to grind.
> 
> It would seem statistically astronomical to get that many defective projectors.
> 
> Given that seemingly many on here have had theirs for 1 or 2 years with NO ISSUES which indicates there is
> 
> obviousy some quality to the product,
> 
> Best Buy has a sale for 1179.99 for new which is a fairly good price, I think I'll get one.



Epson has sold and continues to sell a ton of this projector, it's a very popular low cost model. With that kind of volume there are bound to be some problems and yes, people with problems are more apt to complain and rightly so. That said there is no reason for anyone to cast doubt on the people posting. Be assured that they are all sincere with no vested interest.


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22470765
> 
> *Did I get a bad projector?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have waited for over a year to buy an Epson 8350. Finally moved into our new home with dedicated media room. Had perfect timing with an 15% refurb coupon from Epson store, got the 8350 delivered two weeks ago. This morning, while going to set it up, I decided to plug it in and throw the test pattern before hanging the thing off the ceiling.
> 
> I have it on two boxes, at 4 feet high, throw to blank wall is 15 feet. The test pattern is completely messed up! Regular DVD movie very blurry.
> 
> From what I understand, there is no convergence adjustment.
> 
> What do I do??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson "private line" is not open on the weekends, and that is my only free time.
> 
> The pictures below have been taken at an angle, so that my shadow does not fall in the way.



Thanks everyone. I was able to talk with Epson and emailed them the link to the photos. The tech was rather impressed with how bad it was. I asked if refurbds went through some sort of quality check before shipping and they said that they "should"

I had to be referred back to the Epson store to get a another refurb shipped out and send the current one back.


As I won't be able to get to it again until the weekend, is there a "owner checklist" checklist I should run through before I even attempt to hang it? besides the test pattern that you get when you click "pattern" on the remote?


----------



## CDubbs

I guess this could be counted as a comparison post.


The color wheel in my Optoma H77 finally went after about 5000 hours over 5ish years. Paid $2800 new back then. It is a single chip DLP with a 5x, 8 segment color wheel.


The projector is shelf mounted, 19.5' from the top edge of a DaLite Model C 119" Hi Power (2.8 gain). The room is 14x22 with a bay window on the wall opposite the projection surface.


The 8350 has been great right out of the box. Picked up from Best Buy as I didn't want to wait for shipping. The resolution increase is very nice and the brightness on "Living Room" was excellent with the high gain screen and copious ambient lights for the pounding my Chicago Bears gave yesterday. Dynamic hyper-saturated the colors, specifically the Breast Cancer Awareness pink uniform items.


Cinema mode looked excellent for the Avengers (under better light control than the football game) but I found myself attempting to improve the blacks by enabling dynamic iris and the low end contrast by adjusting gamma.


Simply put, the blacks do not look as good as the Dark Chip 2 DLP on a white high gain screen. That said, if you haven't stared at the other projector for 5000 hours it would be difficult to tell the difference. The difference isn't enough motivation to replace the screen at this point. I am expecting "WOW" reactions for the walking dead premier next Sunday.


I will not discard the H77. It's worth the $200 to replace the color wheel and hook it up in my man cave as a spectator view for LAN parties.


-Chris


----------



## gazzagazza

The only problem I've had with mine is dust blobs. They seem to come and go, so I guess there are dust particles getting in, and then being eventually moved on by the cooling system. When I see people mentioning returning their projector because of dust blobs I'm surprised. My previous two Panasonic models suffered from this too, although the AE300 was much worse than the AE900. It seems to be just a function of the filtering design the projector has, not a unit to unit variation. Obviously the 8350 doesn't have the best filtration. Maybe some clever person can come up with a better filter for it and this problem would be gone for good.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morose*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22473388
> 
> 
> If there is something environmental (dust seems to be one of the biggest problems for this projector) I'd think that is a far more likely catalyst than any kind of anti-Epson agenda.


----------



## ivo welch

two years later now, and the 8350 still seems to be at the same price. in the world of projectors, this is like 1-2 generations. I understand that the 8350 is still a great projector, but isn't it there a successor about to come out, or a considerable price drop about to happen? I like the low noise of the 8350; and presumably in eco mode, it isn't too bad a heat engine.


/iaw


----------



## pinoyrukus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ivo welch*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22476148
> 
> 
> two years later now, and the 8350 still seems to be at the same price. in the world of projectors, this is like 1-2 generations. I understand that the 8350 is still a great projector, but isn't it there a successor about to come out, or a considerable price drop about to happen? I like the low noise of the 8350; and presumably in eco mode, it isn't too bad a heat engine.
> 
> /iaw



That's the whole reason why I'm waiting for Black Friday or the 3020/5020 to see a price drop. If this was the PC building world this should cost 1/4 of its original price LOL it's 2 yrs old and people still want to charge 1100-1300 for it!!!! XD


----------



## Fishtank

These Epson projectors have never really dropped in price as far as I know unless you move to the refurb unit's. You might squeeze out a couple hundred bucks but is that worth 6-12 months of waiting?


Anyway I've put at least 5000 hours on this projector in 2 years and it's still fine for me. I thought I would just give some feedback since I have used this projector so heavily.


Great picture however I think the optics could be a bit better, I will randomly need to re-focus every now and then it's pretty difficult to get a razor ship image from edge to edge. It's a bit out of focus till it heats up though so make sure you make your adjustments after 10 mins of use and I guess "endure" those first 10 mins when you turn it on. It's mild to be honest but I can be picky.


I ran xbox/ps3/htpc equally... used it for internet viewing and I never had complaints from any usage... if there is "lag" for gaming I can't tell... and I would likely mop the floor with you in battlefield 3










I ran mine on a completely open shelf.... Epson has replaced 2 bulbs for free...I'm not sure if they still offer that as part of their warranty on new projectors however it was when I purchased it. First bulb failed after a year at 2300'sh hours (12 months) of normal mode, they replaced without a hiccup, second replacement was about 2 months ago after about 3000'sh hours of normal mode again. Yeah it gets used a lot! This was about 22 months into the 24 month warranty and I was honest about the usage and while they said the bulb failed within it's lifetime I mentioned that was unlcear as their warranty stated bulb replacements for the length of the warranty so they caved quickly and replaced it for me. This is as a Canadian customer dealing with Epson Canada with a projector I purchased online from the States. I can't say enough good things about Epson support, they are always kind and effecient. The reason I run the bulbs on normal is because it would seem to me the bulbs burn out quicker on eco... at least mine would definitely flicker first in eco mode then run fine for a long time on normal mode. I have no idea why, the projector is so quiet in eco mode I kind of assume it runs hot and that could be the reason... pure speculation.


I have 2 dust blobs, I've replaced the filter twice. The only time I see them is when there is no input so who cares.


Anyway, I'm a heavy user who is very happy with this projector, I'm not even looking at their competition and will likely move to a 5010 before xmas once I decide if I want a new projector or a new reciever.


it's not perfect but at $1100 nothing is, I have no regrets and I feel as though they have earned my future business.


I've owned Optoma, Acer, Viewsonic in the past.


----------



## sksahai

Another Bad projector?


All:


Replacement came today, focus is ok. NO Convergence issues BUT, on running a test DVD. I get a little line at the bottom of the screen.


The DVD is Mission Impossible 2.

When set to automatic picture size via the HDMI, the black bars for the cinema scope are present, and no little line.


Little line only if DVD player is forced to output "Screen fit"


If I set the DVD player to "screen fit" I see a small line at the bottom of the picture. If I select the "overscan" option on the 8350, the problem goes away (auto setting).

 

 


Is this a projector problem or a DVD player problem?

Once again, unable to do much extensive testing due to work/life. I did not try any other DVDs or attach a bluray player. something to worry about or not?


Thanks again!


Sunil


----------



## keithrwhiteside

Where did you purchase the original 8350 and hopefully you didnt box up your old one and return it yet. As others have said and i will say again. The refurbs and "new" replacement projectors epson sends you are complete junk. I swear they just take them in and wait for someone to call and send yours to someone else. I had screen and convergence issues and after epson sending me "new" units that either had worse convergence, loose parts, dustblobs or color problems. I just kept sending them back keeping my original. Finally i just went back to bestbuy and exchanged for a real "new" projector and kept it. Knock on wood i never have to get a refurb. Unless my projector truly has a major issue i wouldnt risk sending it. Now if you recently bought it id take it back to where you got it and demand new unit. If it is an older unit then id just keep switching them out and play the "epson return roulette".


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithrwhiteside*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22483712
> 
> 
> Where did you purchase the original 8350 and hopefully you didnt box up your old one and return it yet. As others have said and i will say again. The refurbs and "new" replacement projectors epson sends you are complete junk. I swear they just take them in and wait for someone to call and send yours to someone else. I had screen and convergence issues and after epson sending me "new" units that either had worse convergence, loose parts, dustblobs or color problems. I just kept sending them back keeping my original. Finally i just went back to bestbuy and exchanged for a real "new" projector and kept it. Knock on wood i never have to get a refurb. Unless my projector truly has a major issue i wouldnt risk sending it. Now if you recently bought it id take it back to where you got it and demand new unit. If it is an older unit then id just keep switching them out and play the "epson return roulette".



I got it at the Epsonstore.com, there was a coupon for 15% off a refurbished one and it came to $850.


I still don't know if that line under the image is a projector issue or a source issue. I am going to hook up the blu ray player this weekend and see with different DVDs/blurays.


----------



## ravioli817

im thinking about buying the 8350 but i saw that it was released in sept 2010. that makes this model 25 months old! im guessing this is a good thing because it shows that despite the amount of complaints on this thread, enough customers must be happy with it, and buying it if they have kept it alive this long. but 25 months is a very long time in the tech world so am i right in guessing that it will probably be replaced in the next year or so? if it does get replaced, does anyone know what happens to the warranty? if it breaks down after this model gets discontinued, will they still replace it?


----------



## Skylinestar

I'm thinking of the 8350 too. Is the current 8350 on the market still problematic? I'm searching for a projector with good reliability. Having good warranty period or service support but with frequent hiccups is useless.


----------



## sschantz

So this is off the beaten path but....I recently calibrated my projector with the DIsney WOW DVD which definitely made a nice difference. Just learned that BestBuy Silver rewardzone members are eligible for a free calibration of one TV, Projector etc so I have a guy coming over in 2 weeks.....Just wanted to pass along some good info.....


247 hrs into my Epson and very happy thus far


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22482500
> 
> 
> Another Bad projector?
> 
> All:
> 
> Replacement came today, focus is ok. NO Convergence issues BUT, on running a test DVD. I get a little line at the bottom of the screen.
> 
> The DVD is Mission Impossible 2.
> 
> When set to automatic picture size via the HDMI, the black bars for the cinema scope are present, and no little line.
> 
> Little line only if DVD player is forced to output "Screen fit"
> 
> If I set the DVD player to "screen fit" I see a small line at the bottom of the picture. If I select the "overscan" option on the 8350, the problem goes away (auto setting).
> 
> Is this a projector problem or a DVD player problem?
> 
> Once again, unable to do much extensive testing due to work/life. I did not try any other DVDs or attach a bluray player. something to worry about or not?
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Sunil


Update:

I tested the projector this weekend, that little line is a function of the Samsung DVD player I have, not the projector. I could not replicate the issue with a blu ray player.


----------



## IAccord99I

I'm still reading the 200+ pages in this thread, but does anyone know how much this projector can shift the image down? I plan to mount this on my ceiling and they're vaulted so the projector will be about 12 to 15 feet up from the ground (taking the length of the mount into consideration). It will be about 12 feet away from the screen and my screen size will be 120". The top edge of the screen will be between 6 to 7 feet in height, the bottom edge of the screen will be about 18 inches from the ground.


Does the vertical shift allow this much of a shift? If not, what is the maximum height I can install the projector at?


----------



## develvjd-

2 years and 1100 hours. Not one complaint. Not one! Still gets OOOOHs and AHHHHs! Epic projector.


----------



## dolphinc


Just picked up one of these used from a client of mine, he bought it last Black Friday for a conference room he was building. After many months later he finished the room and wanted to go brighter so he bought the Benq W7000. I offered to buy it from him for a fair price, he said just give me $500 and its yours. SOLD! Had zero hrs on it and I now have it in a 3 projector setup along with my Viewsonic Pro8100 and JVC X3.


Picture quality is much better on this projector than I thought, brighter, better colors and darker blacks than my Viewsonic but still no match for my JVC. Played COD MW3 last night on the 8350 and it seems to have awesome low lag times. So far very happy with the purchase.


----------



## Project H

I'm seriously considering purchasing this projector.


As of right now - I have a chance to purchase a used one with 800 hours and "0 issues" for $800. This unit still has about 1.5 months left on the warranty. The price to me is high for a used unit since it is possible to get refurbs for 850-900.


What should I look for when inspecting this used Epson 8350 and what would you offer $$ wise to the seller?


Thanks!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dolphinc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22510967
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just give me $500 and its yours. SOLD! Had zero hrs on it


 

Hey! No fair 









 

Man, talk about being at the right place at the right time ... well done.


----------



## Duke Broadway

From what I understand the warranty does not transfer. I may be wrong.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22515199
> 
> 
> From what I understand the warranty does not transfer. I may be wrong.



He never registered it, that was the first thing I did. So far, so good.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7470#post_22515193
> 
> 
> Hey! No fair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, talk about being at the right place at the right time ... well done.



Thanks, It was a very good deal. I bought a JVC X3 3 months ago and I already have more hrs on the Epson. Gaming and TV are great.


----------



## Nickcali

I have the same issue it has happend now about 3 times and when I contacted EPSON they said the same and sent me out a replacement unit. I asked them is it a brand new unit and the support guy said it is a replacement after asking him the question in more detail he said yes it could be a refurb. I just received it but I am reluctant to change it because I don't now what other issues I might have with a reburb unit. Now he did say that a brand new buld and if there are any issues send it back and they will send another unit out. The warranty from EPSON covers 2 years from your original purchase.


----------



## Ainshent

I'm looking to get a projector to hook up to a computer. Mainly PC gaming, Netflix/Hulu, downloaded movies and applications. I can potentially go up to 150" screen but have read that anything over 100" with this projector is going to be less than optimal. I have a substantial amount of control when it comes to lighting in the room.


Does anyone with the 8350 have any thoughts/experience on larger screens?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ainshent*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22521980
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get a projector to hook up to a computer. Mainly PC gaming, Netflix/Hulu, downloaded movies and applications. I can potentially go up to 150" screen but have read that anything over 100" with this projector is going to be less than optimal. I have a substantial amount of control when it comes to lighting in the room.
> 
> Does anyone with the 8350 have any thoughts/experience on larger screens?



Yeah...go for it. I personally have done up to 165: diagonal and it's a stupendous image w/ 1080p BluRay and 1080i HiDef.


Whoever said that the 8350 could not do over 100" well was......








....well let's leave it at this...he was less than well informed.


BTW, the 8350 has one of the lowest Lag Time factors of any PJ in existence....so gaming performance is impeccable.


----------



## sschantz

So I cut the cord a few weeks back which I am ver happy about. My tv's are able to get 10-12 HD channels through my coaxial but my dilemma is nothing in the basement that will allow me to watch football on my Projector. Has anyone bought a Laptop Video card http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10810&cs_id=1081002&p_id=6151&seq=1&format=2 and hooked


What I am thinking is to buy this and hook my laptop up to my onkyo receiver via VGA (I know not the best) which will allow me to watch regular TV boradcasts....seems like a nuch cheaper way then buying a cable box as the receiver...


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ainshent*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22521980
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get a projector to hook up to a computer. Mainly PC gaming, Netflix/Hulu, downloaded movies and applications. I can potentially go up to 150" screen but have read that anything over 100" with this projector is going to be less than optimal. I have a substantial amount of control when it comes to lighting in the room.
> 
> Does anyone with the 8350 have any thoughts/experience on larger screens?



I am running mine to a 135" Visual Apex fixed screen and the image is spectacular, even on eco setting.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22522253
> 
> 
> So I cut the cord a few weeks back which I am ver happy about. My tv's are able to get 10-12 HD channels through my coaxial but my dilemma is nothing in the basement that will allow me to watch football on my Projector. Has anyone bought a Laptop Video card http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10810&cs_id=1081002&p_id=6151&seq=1&format=2 and hooked
> 
> What I am thinking is to buy this and hook my laptop up to my onkyo receiver via VGA (I know not the best) which will allow me to watch regular TV boradcasts....seems like a nuch cheaper way then buying a cable box as the receiver...
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I'm doing the same thing. I put a Hauppage twin tuner card in my PC and hooked it up to a Mohu Leaf Plus antenna and its a beautiful combination. Read (and believe!) the reviews on Amazon about this 'paper' antenna. You just stick the thing on the wall behind your PC and watch the channels flow in, truly amazing. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Leaf-Plus-Amplified-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B006GQIIEM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## HDTV Maniac

This leaf+ item sounds interesting, can I know more about it. PM if need be.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Itsdon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22522722
> 
> 
> I am running mine to a 135" Visual Apex fixed screen and the image is spectacular, even on eco setting.
> 
> I'm doing the same thing. I put a Hauppage twin tuner card in my PC and hooked it up to a Mohu Leaf Plus antenna and its a beautiful combination. Read (and believe!) the reviews on Amazon about this 'paper' antenna. You just stick the thing on the wall behind your PC and watch the channels flow in, truly amazing. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Leaf-Plus-Amplified-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B006GQIIEM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top



How are you making the connection of your PC to your receiver or projector? VGA? I have seen the Hauppage tuner for $75ish but have also seen others for half the price, wondering if there is a real difference?


----------



## Ainshent




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22522234
> 
> 
> Yeah...go for it. I personally have done up to 165: diagonal and it's a stupendous image w/ 1080p BluRay and 1080i HiDef.
> 
> Whoever said that the 8350 could not do over 100" well was......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....well let's leave it at this...he was less than well informed.
> 
> BTW, the 8350 has one of the lowest Lag Time factors of any PJ in existence....so gaming performance is impeccable.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Itsdon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22522722
> 
> 
> I am running mine to a 135" Visual Apex fixed screen and the image is spectacular, even on eco setting.
> 
> /dp/B006GQIIEM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top



That's awesome, you guys just made my day. The lag or lack there of, I should say, was one of the main deciding factors on the 8350. HERE is the link to the review site that claimed the 100" maximum screen size.

*"Dynamic is the preset to use in a bright room, as it produces the highest lumen output - 1507 lumens on our test sample. While this is a slight decrease from the Home Cinema 8100 which measured in the mid 1700s, it is still plenty of light for a room with a couple of small windows or table lamps. In this environment, a 100" diagonal image is probably the maximum you will want to consider--anything larger can make the picture appear too dim."*


Don't know, perhaps I'm just misunderstanding something ......



~Ainshent


----------



## Ainshent

Yep, I was the problem with the article. Further into the article it states this ....

*"Next up is Living Room. While the Dynamic preset is brightest, it also has a subtle green cast. Living room has more accurate and life-like color, deeper black, and a picture that is overall more appropriate for high-quality film and video. Our test sample measured 951 lumens in this mode. If you have a viewing room with some ambient light, such as a set of curtains that aren't quite opaque, Living Room is perfect. In this sort of environment, a 100" to 120" diagonal image is easy, while larger diagonal images are possible with better light control."*


I somehow managed to miss that ever so important point.


~Ainshent


----------



## Project H

so for the Epson 8350 is the warranty transferable incase someone buys one used? Also, for a new unit is the warranty on the lamp just for 90 days or for the whole 2 years? i called Epson and the sales rep stated its just for 90 days, is this correct?


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22522896
> 
> 
> How are you making the connection of your PC to your receiver or projector? VGA? I have seen the Hauppage tuner for $75ish but have also seen others for half the price, wondering if there is a real difference?



I have the leaf feeding my Hauppage card. I watch and record the shows via Windows Media Center (twin tuner recognized, nice!) which feeds my Pioneer VSX-33 receiver (HDMI) and that in turn is hooked to my Epson PJ (HDMI).


1080P TV, Dolby Digital shows for free (including DVR) =







The Giants game last night was spectacular.


----------



## manvik

Thanks to this thread, I got convinced to buy this Projector for my home theater. I used to have a Benq earlier. Picked up an Open box from Bestbuy yesterday for a good deal and added 4 yr warranty to it. The sales person said it was returned by a customer without any use the same day he bought it...I trusted him and bought it. It looks like a great unit so far. No convergence issues.


I managed to see the Service Menu. What is confusing is I see the Bulb replacement as 1. Is this on a 2nd bulb or 1st bulb. Some of you guys who are 100% sure that you are in the 1st bulb could you please check and let me know. If its on a 2nd bulb, I might have to return it or talk to BB about it. However, I doubt it went to a 2nd bulb in just 4 hrs.


To access Service Menu..please follow this. Keep trying and eventually you will get it. I may have repeated these steps atleast 5 times.

Sequence of pressing:

MENU - keep more than 5 seconds

ESC

ESC

Right

Left


Thanks.


----------



## TrekFX

I tried the service menu access recommended about 20 times with no luck at all.


If I press and hold "menu" it alternates between user menu displayed and not displayed. Is this what you see before hitting "esc?" Do you keep holding menu after 5 sec? Do you hit "esc" while the user menu is displayed or when it goes away? I might be missing the magic timing.


----------



## manvik

Thanks for trying. Yes, after holding the Menu button for more than 5 seconds and releasing it, you have to press Esc button twice and then Right button and Left button..

Release the Menu button before pressing the ESC button. At this time the Menu on the screen displayed will disappear and its Ok. Btw, holding the Menu button for a long time does not alternate the menu display from displayed to not displayed for me.


1st time to get this menu, I had to do the procedure like 5 times. 2nd time I tried, it came in 2 attempts. So, there might be some magic timing to do this


----------



## Project H

ive been looking to get an epson 8350 but how does this compare to the epson 8500 and 8700? I see that the 8500 is older and may have better blacks and would be ideal for a dedicated HT room. It looks like these are discontinued but you can get them used or refurbished from some places.



what are your thoughts on these? i appreciate the information and feedback. im looking to pull the trigger by black friday.



thanks


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22534934
> 
> 
> ive been looking to get an epson 8350 but how does this compare to the epson 8500 and 8700? I see that the 8500 is older and may have better blacks and would be ideal for a dedicated HT room. It looks like these are discontinued but you can get them used or refurbished from some places.
> 
> what are your thoughts on these? i appreciate the information and feedback. im looking to pull the trigger by black friday.
> 
> thanks



If you can get a 8700 refurbed w/full warranty....do so. Otherwise....get a .ew 8350


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ainshent*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22521980
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get a projector to hook up to a computer. Mainly PC gaming, Netflix/Hulu, downloaded movies and applications. I can potentially go up to 150" screen but have read that anything over 100" with this projector is going to be less than optimal. I have a substantial amount of control when it comes to lighting in the room.
> 
> Does anyone with the 8350 have any thoughts/experience on larger screens?


FWIW, I've got pretty poor light control (currently) so I don't watch movies during the day, but I can watch football or most TV shows with it set to Living Room mode (brighter bulb) during the day.


My screen is effectively a 133" diagonal screen (it's actually a custom-made Da-Lite High-Power 116" wide by 49.5" high 2.35:1 scope format, but when I'm filling it up when watching a 2.35:1 movie, the PQ and brightness level is equivalent to what it would be if I was projecting it onto a 133" diagonal 16:9 screen). When watching movies like that at night, it looks beautiful and is not lacking in lumens, IMO. And that's running in ECO mode (lower lumens).


So, if you've got good light control and ideally have non-white walls, I think you can definitely go quite big with this.


----------



## srauly

Are there any 8350 owners using a Darbee Darblet? If so, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on it.


----------



## TrekFX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manvik*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22532843
> 
> 
> Thanks for trying. Yes, after holding the Menu button for more than 5 seconds and releasing it, you have to press Esc button twice and then Right button and Left button..
> 
> Release the Menu button before pressing the ESC button. At this time the Menu on the screen displayed will disappear and its Ok. Btw, holding the Menu button for a long time does not alternate the menu display from displayed to not displayed for me.
> 
> 1st time to get this menu, I had to do the procedure like 5 times. 2nd time I tried, it came in 2 attempts. So, there might be some magic timing to do this



I finally got it to work. Oddly, the screen would alternate on/off if I bounced the remote beam off my screen, but not if I point the remote right at the projector!


It looks like some basic logs, with counts for power ups, cool-downs, and errors across four pages scrolled with the right/left keys.


Is there deeper access? That is, service-level *adjustments* to dial in the color gamut more accurately? The user menu RGBCYM doesn't have enough range to pull the green primary in from its oversaturated state.


----------



## manvik

@TrekFx - Are you in your 1st bulb. What value do you see for 'Lamp Replacement'. Mine shows as 1. As mine is an open box, I want to know if it is in its 1st bulb or has it been replaced once.


----------



## manvik

Anyone able to help me with what you value you have for the Lamp Replacement in the Service menu especially if you are still in your 1st bulb.

I got a open box item from Bestbuy and want to make sure it has had no major issues. As of now I am happy with it. I also bought the 4yr warranty.


Thanks in advance.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manvik*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22530006
> 
> 
> Thanks to this thread, I got convinced to buy this Projector for my home theater. I used to have a Benq earlier. Picked up an Open box from Bestbuy yesterday for a good deal and added 4 yr warranty to it. The sales person said it was returned by a customer without any use the same day he bought it...I trusted him and bought it. It looks like a great unit so far. No convergence issues.
> 
> I managed to see the Service Menu. What is confusing is I see the Bulb replacement as 1. Is this on a 2nd bulb or 1st bulb. Some of you guys who are 100% sure that you are in the 1st bulb could you please check and let me know. If its on a 2nd bulb, I might have to return it or talk to BB about it. However, I doubt it went to a 2nd bulb in just 4 hrs.
> 
> To access Service Menu..please follow this. Keep trying and eventually you will get it. I may have repeated these steps atleast 5 times.
> 
> Sequence of pressing:
> 
> MENU - keep more than 5 seconds
> 
> ESC
> 
> ESC
> 
> Right
> 
> Left
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## milt9




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manvik*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22551059
> 
> 
> Anyone able to help me with what you value you have for the Lamp Replacement in the Service menu especially if you are still in your 1st bulb.
> 
> I got a open box item from Bestbuy and want to make sure it has had no major issues. As of now I am happy with it. I also bought the 4yr warranty.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I have a 8350 with under 200 hours on it.am on 1st bulb. the service menu shows 0

milt


----------



## nitemare004

Hey guys I bought this projector and have it in my bed room temporarily until I can get a bigger space for it...


I currently have it around 9.4" away from lens to the wall and the picture is 48" diagonal. Shouldn't it be bigger than that?


I read this in the description:

Displays an 80" widescreen image from just 8' away or a 120" image from 12' away.


Thanks


----------



## TrekFX

On the lens barrel, the outermost ring is focus. Next one in is zoom. Turn THAT one to expand image. You may need to re-focus after.


----------



## manvik

@milt9 - Thank you for providing the info,


So, it looks like mine was replaced. Though it was an open box, it has all the original packing and all accessories in it original cover. Total operating time is just 4 hours. Does this get reset when you put a new bulb - like total operating time, number of times on/off, etc.

Wondering why the bulb was replaced



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *milt9*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22554537
> 
> 
> I have a 8350 with under 200 hours on it.am on 1st bulb. the service menu shows 0
> 
> milt


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TrekFX*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22559267
> 
> 
> On the lens barrel, the outermost ring is focus. Next one in is zoom. Turn THAT one to expand image. You may need to re-focus after.



Wow......the things you learn on AVS!











TrexFX......you da Man! Personally speaking, you handled that better than I woulda.

I woulda ribbed nitetmare004 a bit fur shur.


Oh yeah....nitemare004, Welcome to AVS!

Don't forget to set the timer on the Projector so the coffee is ready when you wake up.

Just wait until you see what's on the "Menu"!


----------



## nitemare004

LOL so there are two rings? I didn't even realize, now I feel dumb. Here I am thinking the only way to adjust it is placement of the projector.

Gonna check it out when I get home


Thanks!


Loving the projector by the way even in my small bedroom, it could be better with TV but it's awesome with movies. Watched MIB3 on it









Wish I had bluray.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nitemare004*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22561686
> 
> 
> LOL so there are two rings? I didn't even realize, now I feel dumb. Here I am thinking the only way to adjust it is placement of the projector.
> 
> Gonna check it out when I get home
> 
> Thanks!



Don't feel dumb. I'm sure lots of other people don't bother to read the manual that comes with the projector, before they decide to turn it on.


BTW.... how was the coffee this morning?


(....I'm still having fun with this one....)


So ok...... if you decide you want a great but inexpensive Screen to match up with that projector, come over to the DIY Screen Forum. Lots & lots of great ideas over there for you to consider, and I promise no one over there will have fun at your expense. We will teach you everything you need to know,.


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nitemare004*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22561686
> 
> 
> LOL so there are two rings? I didn't even realize, now I feel dumb. Here I am thinking the only way to adjust it is placement of the projector.
> 
> Gonna check it out when I get home
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Loving the projector by the way even in my small bedroom, it could be better with TV but it's awesome with movies. Watched MIB3 on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had bluray.



Ah you really need to find some HD sources if you enjoy the projector.


That doesn't mean you can't enjoy it with DVD's etc. however the bigger you make the image the more you start to notice the sub-HD content.


Just a heads up so when you go home and and increase the size, if it looks a bit "soft" that would be the primary reason.


----------



## TrekFX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nitemare004*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500#post_22561686
> 
> 
> LOL so there are two rings? I didn't even realize, now I feel dumb. Here I am thinking the only way to adjust it is placement of the projector.
> 
> Gonna check it out when I get home
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Loving the projector by the way even in my small bedroom, it could be better with TV but it's awesome with movies. Watched MIB3 on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had bluray.



Just want to be sure you're doing this right!


I got concerned when you mentioned "only way....placement." When you aim, are you tilting the whole projector up/down/left/right? Or are you keeping the projector squared-away horizontal and vertical and using the lens shift adjustments (which is the proper way)? Just checkin'!


You can get into blu-ray for $100 or so if you shop around , or grab an open-box somewhere. That can get you a respectable Panasonic or other basic but strong-performing player.


----------



## zdr0114

I know this gets asked about 3 times a week, but as a complete amateur just need some help.


Just bought a home and have a big 18 x 18 room in the basement which will be a semi dedicated theatre room ( bar in the corner which extends beyond the room, you have to have a bar right!).


Throw distance is an estimated 13 ft, give or take, low ceiling about 8 ft. I have my heart set on a nice 8350 with some sound.


I am looking to go ceiling mount on this as I had my wiring put in to 5.1 when they finished the basement.


I am not looking for anything over the top, just a solid setup which will be great for ball games and sporadic gaming.


I am getting pushed many different directions by my friends who are amateurs so I have a list of questions below, any help is really, REALLY appreciated.


1. Should I even go projector?

2. If so, is 8350 a good choice for this? (the room is light controlled)

3. What kind of sound might work best? I have been pushed for in ceiling sound and in wall sound.

4. Should I let amateur friends deal with this or hire it?

5. Screen and screen size?

6. Anything I have not thought of?


Any advice that can be offered would be great, flying blind here and just needs some starting points before I tear up my basement and cause some problems.


Budget is open by the way as I have a little $ to throw around but don't want to get crazy (keep it under $3000) if possible.


Thanks in advance folks!


Dustin


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zdr0114*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22564383
> 
> 
> I know this gets asked about 3 times a week, but as a complete amateur just need some help.
> 
> Just bought a home and have a big 18 x 18 room in the basement which will be a semi dedicated theatre room ( bar in the corner which extends beyond the room, you have to have a bar right!).
> 
> Throw distance is an estimated 13 ft, give or take, low ceiling about 8 ft. I have my heart set on a nice 8350 with some sound.
> 
> I am looking to go ceiling mount on this as I had my wiring put in to 5.1 when they finished the basement.
> 
> I am not looking for anything over the top, just a solid setup which will be great for ball games and sporadic gaming.
> 
> I am getting pushed many different directions by my friends who are amateurs so I have a list of questions below, any help is really, REALLY appreciated.
> 
> 1. Should I even go projector?
> 
> 2. If so, is 8350 a good choice for this? (the room is light controlled)
> 
> 3. What kind of sound might work best? I have been pushed for in ceiling sound and in wall sound.
> 
> 4. Should I let amateur friends deal with this or hire it?
> 
> 5. Screen and screen size?
> 
> 6. Anything I have not thought of?
> 
> Any advice that can be offered would be great, flying blind here and just needs some starting points before I tear up my basement and cause some problems.
> 
> Budget is open by the way as I have a little $ to throw around but don't want to get crazy (keep it under $3000) if possible.
> 
> Thanks in advance folks!
> 
> Dustin


1. yes ... what else ? Large plasma or LCD (240hz) is even more ... Plus, they can't touch projector screen sizes.

2. yes

3. See my setup. External speakers are better I think (cheaper, less work, upgradable, re-config-able, sound better, handle more power, better selection, etc.). Get a Sub too.

4. Your choice. If you have more money than time, hire a pro.

5. As big as possible (with room for center channel below). Use calculator at epson.com .  Budget screens are cheap. White or beige wall works too.

6. Buy at BestBuy and take it back if you don't like it.

 

You could do my setup for under $3000 with a budget screen (and no plasma or HTPC). Not sure about gaming (I have run games on my HTPC ... but I'd rather game on desk PC) but for sports and movies, you really can't beat a projector. Run one more speaker wire to back of room (opposite the Center) for 6.1 in Blu-Ray movies (or run 2 for 7.1). For a room that big, I wouldn't go much smaller than what I have (amp and speakers) ... but I'm into movies and live concerts.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zdr0114*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22564383
> 
> 
> I know this gets asked about 3 times a week, but as a complete amateur just need some help.
> 
> Just bought a home and have a big 18 x 18 room in the basement which will be a semi dedicated theatre room ( bar in the corner which extends beyond the room, you have to have a bar right!).
> 
> Throw distance is an estimated 13 ft, give or take, low ceiling about 8 ft. I have my heart set on a nice 8350 with some sound.
> 
> I am looking to go ceiling mount on this as I had my wiring put in to 5.1 when they finished the basement.
> 
> I am not looking for anything over the top, just a solid setup which will be great for ball games and sporadic gaming.
> 
> I am getting pushed many different directions by my friends who are amateurs so I have a list of questions below, any help is really, REALLY appreciated.
> 
> 1. Should I even go projector?
> 
> 2. If so, is 8350 a good choice for this? (the room is light controlled)
> 
> 3. What kind of sound might work best? I have been pushed for in ceiling sound and in wall sound.
> 
> 4. Should I let amateur friends deal with this or hire it?
> 
> 5. Screen and screen size?
> 
> 6. Anything I have not thought of?
> 
> Any advice that can be offered would be great, flying blind here and just needs some starting points before I tear up my basement and cause some problems.
> 
> Budget is open by the way as I have a little $ to throw around but don't want to get crazy (keep it under $3000) if possible.
> 
> Thanks in advance folks!
> 
> Dustin





> Quote:



pm me. I just finished my room on a $3 k budget


----------



## F12Bwth

OK, Just got my 8350 setup yesterday. Looks FANTASTIC. Knowing the "issues" this projector has with it's bulb life I have set it to HIGH ALTITUDE mode even though I am in NY and only 200 feet above sea level and in ECO mode. I assume this just runs the fan harder and longer but I want to double check that I am not doing anything to jeopardize my new baby. If being slightly louder is the only consequence I can live with that easily.


----------



## nitemare004




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TrekFX*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22563624
> 
> 
> Just want to be sure you're doing this right!
> 
> I got concerned when you mentioned "only way....placement." When you aim, are you tilting the whole projector up/down/left/right? Or are you keeping the projector squared-away horizontal and vertical and using the lens shift adjustments (which is the proper way)? Just checkin'!
> 
> You can get into blu-ray for $100 or so if you shop around , or grab an open-box somewhere. That can get you a respectable Panasonic or other basic but strong-performing player.



lol Yeah I have an extension coming from the ceiling to make it point straight at the wall. I've tried it slanted down before, that picture wasn't quite as nice looking, I'm not sure how people get away with that.


I will be looking to buy a house with the appropriate size room, I'd like a 135" screen to fit if possible, what size room should I be looking at? It seems they are normally around 13' x 16' rooms. Longer would be nice to get that theater feel. I've been thinking I may have to get a house built to get what I want.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7500_50#post_22522253
> 
> 
> So I cut the cord a few weeks back which I am ver happy about. My tv's are able to get 10-12 HD channels through my coaxial but my dilemma is nothing in the basement that will allow me to watch football on my Projector. Has anyone bought a Laptop Video card http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10810&cs_id=1081002&p_id=6151&seq=1&format=2 and hooked
> 
> What I am thinking is to buy this and hook my laptop up to my onkyo receiver via VGA (I know not the best) which will allow me to watch regular TV boradcasts....seems like a nuch cheaper way then buying a cable box as the receiver...
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I have an AverMedia TV Express Mini in my thinkpad. It is an ExpressCard HDTV tuner that I just plug an antenna into. I run it thorough Win 7 Media Center.


----------



## HDTV Maniac

I am just about ready to pull the trigger on a projector in the next 2 weeks. I am just waiting for the black Friday/cyber Monday deals to see if I can catch a steal. I am trying to decide between the Epson 8350 or the 3020. I know that the 8350 has more lens shift but I don't think this will be an issue in my setup so I can live with that shortcoming on the 3020. The 3020 will obviously be much brighter (at least from the specs) and this is also important since I will be lighting a 125" screen, plus it will also do 3D which is a bonus since I am not necessarily looking for that.


I guess what I want to know from others out there is if the 3020 is a better projector or if the 2+ year old 8350 is still the better choice? Will blacks be better on one over the other or will they be just the same? I'm trying to make this final decision and I just don't want to regret anything. The 8350 will obviously be cheaper no matter what but the price difference is not that great between them when comparing new units. Here is Canada I can get the 8350 refurbished at $999 with full 2 year warranty so I will see what the BF deals have to offer to better that price.


If anyone has any thoughts or experience with these 2 projectors and can guide me in any way, it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## zdr0114




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22564473
> 
> 
> 1. yes ... what else ? Large plasma or LCD (240hz) is even more ... Plus, they can't touch projector screen sizes.
> 
> 2. yes
> 
> 3. See my setup. External speakers are better I think (cheaper, less work, upgradable, re-config-able, sound better, handle more power, better selection, etc.). Get a Sub too.
> 
> 4. Your choice. If you have more money than time, hire a pro.
> 
> 5. As big as possible (with room for center channel below). Use calculator at epson.com .  Budget screens are cheap. White or beige wall works too.
> 
> 6. Buy at BestBuy and take it back if you don't like it.
> 
> 
> You could do my setup for under $3000 with a budget screen (and no plasma or HTPC). Not sure about gaming (I have run games on my HTPC ... but I'd rather game on desk PC) but for sports and movies, you really can't beat a projector. Run one more speaker wire to back of room (opposite the Center) for 6.1 in Blu-Ray movies (or run 2 for 7.1). For a room that big, I wouldn't go much smaller than what I have (amp and speakers) ... but I'm into movies and live concerts.



Great stuff Tesla. Appreciate the feedback and advice.


Yea, on the #4, I have friends that have done setups in the past and things like that, but you always get reluctant when it comes to friends doing some of this.


Really appreciate the advice, now to start gathering the components.


Thanks,

Dustin


----------



## Project H

what is the best all around recommended screen to compliment the epson 8350? for people with budget of up to 750 or so? I'm looking for a 120" fixed frame screen in a room that has some ambient light but can be light controlled and the projector will be around 13 feet or so from the screen. I dont need one that is AT.


THANKS


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22572392
> 
> 
> what is the best all around recommended screen to compliment the epson 8350? for people with budget of up to 750 or so? I'm looking for a 120" fixed frame screen in a room that has some ambient light but can be light controlled and the projector will be around 13 feet or so from the screen. I dont need one that is AT.
> 
> THANKS




if you have the gumption, you can make a $ 3000+ screen ideally suited to the 8350.....................


.........................................for less than $ 200


A screen comparable to any $700 Fixed screen @ 120 " diagonal? $130

http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section 


We help Members do it everyday.


----------



## zdr0114

Okay, I have my components in order except for the last one...the screen.


I do have a little more money than time. So I need a decent screen, not top of the line, but something decent.


I am throwing somewhere around 13 ft. Jamestown screens look good, does anyone have suggestions or can point me in a direction?


Thanks in advance!


Dustin


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zdr0114*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22577377
> 
> 
> Okay, I have my components in order except for the last one...the screen.
> 
> I do have a little more money than time. So I need a decent screen, not top of the line, but something decent.
> 
> I am throwing somewhere around 13 ft. Jamestown screens look good, does anyone have suggestions or can point me in a direction?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Dustin



Look at www.carada.com nice screens for a good price. I picked up a 96 fixed for 640


----------



## YoungGoGetter

Quick question - what does auto-iris do for me? And am I at risk of having it break by using it? I've read reviews that state it's a common malfunction on this projector and I'd rather not use it and extend the life of the unit overall.


----------



## YoungGoGetter

Also, is it common for a DLP to have a better resolution/picture than this LCD? I just got rid of an Optoma HD23 in exchange for this because it had such bad RBE I thought I was watching Skittles commercials...but I do have to say that the motion was more fluid and the picture seemed more detailed and clear than on this 8350 (at first glance - haven't done too much testing). Regardless, at least this unit is tolerable to watch. The HD23 is a paperweight in my opinion because of such terrible RBE.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zdr0114*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22577377
> 
> 
> Okay, I have my components in order except for the last one...the screen.
> 
> I do have a little more money than time. So I need a decent screen, not top of the line, but something decent.
> 
> I am throwing somewhere around 13 ft. Jamestown screens look good, does anyone have suggestions or can point me in a direction?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Dustin



I'm running the Visual Apex 135" screen and love it. Very nice quality for the $
http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-Screens/Projector_Screen_Details.asp?chPartNumber=VAPEX9135


----------



## KimNeJoi

sorry remove this


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *YoungGoGetter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22582481
> 
> 
> Also, is it common for a DLP to have a better resolution/picture than this LCD? I just got rid of an Optoma HD23 in exchange for this because it had such bad RBE I thought I was watching Skittles commercials...but I do have to say that the motion was more fluid and the picture seemed more detailed and clear than on this 8350 (at first glance - haven't done too much testing). Regardless, at least this unit is tolerable to watch. The HD23 is a paperweight in my opinion because of such terrible RBE.



The difference between the two has much to do with how the image is presented....not actual resolution.


"Affordable" DLPs are by & large 1 Chip affairs, and the resolution being shown doesn't require the blending of the three separate R-B-G panels of LCD units. Even so....many LCD PJs own no remorse as far as their performance because they have better Panel configuration than that of lessor models.


Contrast is also a strong suit of DLPs...when it's at least measurably commensurate to a LCD with decent specs. Once again...it's all about there only being a single Panel to deal with, and subsequently less chance of light leakage. However...the same design limits Dynamic Contrast on DLPs...while vastly improved Panel design on some LCDs / LyCos PJs achieve Dynamic Contrast ratios in excess of 500,000:1


Lastly, DLPs do usually have better "Speeds" as far as reaction (lag) times when processing variable signals. But certainly not all....nor do most LCD of any real worth fail to deliver exceptional performance. The 8350 is widely acknowledges as being a superb Gaming machine...and only a very few DLPs can even come close, let alone surpass it.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *YoungGoGetter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22582475
> 
> 
> Quick question - what does auto-iris do for me? And am I at risk of having it break by using it? I've read reviews that state it's a common malfunction on this projector and I'd rather not use it and extend the life of the unit overall.



Auto Iris adjusts the aperture of the Lens, either attenuating or increasing light output dependent upon the room's lighting conditions. When it does it's job...and does so silently...it's a valuable feature to avail one's self of. However, with a PJ like the 8350, a proper selection of Screen (High Contrast Gray w/1.0+ gain) can easily do the same thing, and eliminate the need for such assist.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zdr0114*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22577377
> 
> 
> Okay, I have my components in order except for the last one...the screen.
> 
> I do have a little more money than time. So I need a decent screen, not top of the line, but something decent.
> 
> I am throwing somewhere around 13 ft. Jamestown screens look good, does anyone have suggestions or can point me in a direction?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Dustin



Make a excellent Screen for a fraction of the cost.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section


----------



## zdr0114

I tel you what what this thread saves my a$$ at every turn between Mississippi and Schantz...thanks gents.


Dustin


----------



## Project H

I'm looking to pick up a screen in a large open room with some ambient light for the 8350. distance from the PJ to the wall is about 13-14 feet. I am considering a visual apex screen and want to go at least 120". What other budget screens do you guys recommend. the visual apex screen has a gain of 1.1. are there any grey budget screens? anyone know of any specials going on for screens during the holidays i know visual apex has a sale going on.


let me know if you need any other info from me to help choose a screen.


thanks,


----------



## Project H

btw i wanted to mention im looking into Jamestown, Visual Apex, and HT Depot Focupix screens fixed screens.


Let me know which has the best quality and will compliment the 8350. I'm uncertain if I need to go with a white or grey screen.


----------



## MississippiMan

At 120" diagonal, and having ambient light issues to deal with, a Gray screen is imperative. The 8350 is fully capable of supplying enough lumen output in Normal Lamp / Living Room Mode, but without a screen with a Gray surface & 1.0+ gain, even the 8350 cannot deliver an image that will truly satisfy.


Even a really High Gain white surface won't getter dun. Colors might shine through (but still not have real depth and saturation) but blacks will suffer badly if ambient light strikes the screen in any way.


Proper Lighting design and room colors can go very far toward helping to mitigate ambient light as well as the reflections from Projected light. But the screen is / will be the biggest factor.


As such....it's unfortunate but that there are no really "budget-oriented" Fixed Mfg. Gray Screens. Usually such "High Contrast Grays" come in at a higher cost than their Matte White counterparts....no matter who the Mfg. is. And Fixed Screens are, to the surprise of many, usually the most expensive...more so than Electric. And even sadder, there are extremely few Electrics that offer up a High Contrast Gray.


Focupix has perhaps the least expensive High Contrast Gray Screens.


a 125" er "Fixed"
http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Widescreen_Fixed_Frame_Screen_125_p/ff169lt-120gy.htm 


a 120" Electric
http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Projector_Screens_from_100_to_120_in_diagonal_s/38.htm?searching=Y&sort=1&cat=38&f-16:9%20Widescreen=9&show=300&page=1&f-High%20Contrast%20Grey=96 


Then there is Elite's 120" offering:
http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-Screens/Projector_Screen_Details.asp?chPartNumber=R120H1&AR=HT 


When you check the prices of those, you'll find that from there everything just goes higher....but the same Model / Type / Fabric restrictions apply.


Then of course, there remains the known issues of Waves....Wrinkles....and irreparable Damage that is not a warranty covered item.


Can there be any wonder that after just 6 months ( in 2002 )of trying to insert Mfg Screens into my Theater installations, I fled onto AVS and devoured all i could read and learn about DIY-ing my Screens? Back then, for many who advocated Mfg Screens, DIY was a curse word. But the facts bore out that virtually every Mfg Screen could be duplicated via DIY methods, and done for considerably less. Fixed Screens especially. But Retracables...we get'tem painted on as well.


Some comment how they cannot DIY waxing their Car let alone building a Screen....others are more direct and say they will pay 10x as much for a Mfg product rather that go through the "DIY" hassle.


I myself have painted 122" to 185" screens directly onto Drywall / smooth Substrates, used the 8350 / 8500 / 8700 / 9350 / 5010-6010 PJs and gotten spectacular results....with far more ambient light presence than most would ever experience. And perhaps just a few other hundreds of DIY'ers have followed suit on my examples. But most importantly, the biggest version cost no more than $240.00 to build....and far less if Drywall was the substrate.


That doesn't mean that I totally abstain from using a Mfg Screen. But when I do it's because the situation REQUIRES a "Retractable Screen" and then the ONLY ones I use are Focupix "Tab Tensioned" varieties (1.4 gain White) and I ALWAYS spray on a high performance 1.3 Gain Gray surface on 'em.


Now that's me....and those who need / want to follow suit and get all they expect and more for a lot less than they expected.


Such decisions are left to the individual to make. Research can help loads as far as getting well informed enough to make an informed choice. But one DOES have to fully understand ALL the criteria that needs to be considered when balancing a PJ's performance against the chosen Screen surface, and how both react to / handle Room conditions.


That can be all a bit too much for any who are not wholly devoted to the task of learning. So many will ask for opinions....and on these Forums they certainly can & will get'tem. But unless those opinions are based on varied and complete knowledge, and take into consideration all the know facts and criteria....they remain just that....personal opinions based on one's individual experience (...mostly the "one time" type...). Since it's almost impossible for any two installations to be identical, the variable "mileage" can be quite different. And is the nature of purchasing any Mfg Screen, once a decision is made and you take delivery....that's it. Iffin' it don't work...and it's not "broke' upon delivery.....your screwed.


All this is meant to serve as a chance for you to consider all / every option. If one is on a budget....that is all the more important a factor.


The ""Screens" and "DIY Screens" Forums are the place to be asking your questions. Be forewarned....it can be a daunting task...a "Bleeding Eyes" ordeal that can turn your Brain into something less attractive and useful than week-old Road-kill. But in the end, if patience and prudence wins out, you should be able to claim success.


Then...after several months of recuperation in front of your spectacular Big Picture, you can lay claim to being one of the truly lucky ones.


----------



## APHD

Just purchased a used 8350 with 1007 hours on the lamp, just wondering how much light output has been lost over a new lamp? Projector was ran in cinema mode 95% of the time.


----------



## MississippiMan

Probably 50% at minimum.


It is very much worth purchasing a new Lamp, installing that 1 immediately, and saving the old lamp as your "Emergancy Superbowl replacement" Lamp


Murphy's Law..... if your lamp is gonna go pop, you just know it's going to do it in the middle of the game.


----------



## anthonywoy

Has anyone had their 8350 professionally calibrated? Was talking to someone who had there plasma TV done, and they were very happy with the results.

Considering the budget price of this projector, I am guessing it has not been done by very many people.


Have you had it done yourself, or have read of anyone doing it, and how good is the result? Sounds like it costs around $300 to get it done.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthonywoy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22599678
> 
> 
> Has anyone had their 8350 professionally calibrated? Was talking to someone who had there plasma TV done, and they were very happy with the results.
> 
> Considering the budget price of this projector, I am guessing it has not been done by very many people.
> 
> Have you had it done yourself, or have read of anyone doing it, and how good is the result? Sounds like it costs around $300 to get it done.



I actually just had mine done 2 weeks ago. For Silver reward zone members at Best Buy they will calibrate one item in the house for free once a year, so I jumped all over it. Long story short I am VERY pleased with it. Tech was very knowledgeable and very nice. All techs are certified by ISF ( I think that is it and not an in house Best Buy thing.


----------



## MississippiMan

Black Friday at Fry's 8350 $799.00 !!!


----------



## sschantz

So when it comes time to change the bulb, do I need to recalibrate the projector?


----------



## MississippiMan

yes you do.


Just the same as you have to as your lamp dims as it ages.


Any calibration is only good for the specific conditions the projector lamp is in at the time the calibration is done.


That is a prime reason many projector owners own their own calibration discs.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22601687
> 
> 
> yes you do.
> 
> Just the same as you have to as your lamp dims as it ages.
> 
> Any calibration is only good for the specific conditions the projector lamp is in at the time the calibration is done.
> 
> That is a prime reason many projector owners own their own calibration discs.



My lamp has about 200 hrs so i am good for a while. Would it be a safe bet to write down my calibration numbers for when the bulb is changed out?


Speaking of, if i get a power outage will my calibration be lost


----------



## anthonywoy

Thanks sschartz. Any observations on what looks better?


----------



## HDTV Maniac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22600312
> 
> 
> Black Friday at Fry's 8350 $799.00 !!!



Where did you see this MississippiMan? I cannot find it on their site.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthonywoy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22601951
> 
> 
> Thanks sschartz. Any observations on what looks better?



Not quite sure what you mean?


----------



## anthonywoy

Just wondering what you found was improved with the calibration.


----------



## portishead

Anyone have issues with the 8350 randomly turn off? It's just done it twice to me. Once I think a red light was blinking. I turned off the switch and turned it back on and it was okay for about an hour. Then it shut off again, but all the lights were still blue on top. It's turned back on both times, and the bulb still seems ok. Curious if others have experienced anything similar.


----------



## penguinsix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTV Maniac*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22601976
> 
> 
> Where did you see this MississippiMan? I cannot find it on their site.



That's because it was last years deal...


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *penguinsix*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22605835
> 
> 
> That's because it was last years deal...



Yeah...I did not vet my source.


Still, one might still hope for a repeat since supplies of the 8350 are still high and it's a proven Door Buster promo.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22601721
> 
> 
> My lamp has about 200 hrs so i am good for a while. Would it be a safe bet to write down my calibration numbers for when the bulb is changed out?
> 
> Speaking of, if i get a power outage will my calibration be lost



As a rule, most will wait to professionally calibrate a PJ until it has 50-75 hours on it, opting to use basic calibration until such time has elapsed and the Lamp has "matured".


----------



## Hoosier1131

I haven't read much or looked around too hard for projectors since last year, so i basically know nothing. I need a projector for around $1,000-1,3000. Is the Epson 8350 still one of the better choices? When I was reseaerching projectors at the time this was a new projector and it seemed like everyone thought this was a great deal and a bang for the buck. I'm wanting to buy a projector today, I just want to make sure If I buy the Epson 8350 that I'm not missing out or making a mistake.


----------



## wackychimp

I just saw a comment posted somewhere about the 8350 saying that it doesn't have keystone correction. Is this true? I thought that was a pretty standard feature.


It shouldn't be a problem in my home theater but we'd also like to take it outside in the summers to do "movie night" on the back of the house. (We've got a 2-story windowless area that's great for projection.) But in these cases we'd HAVE to have keystone correction.


Can any of you 8350 owners confirm or correct this?


Thanks.


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wackychimp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22607752
> 
> 
> I just saw a comment posted somewhere about the 8350 saying that it doesn't have keystone correction. Is this true? I thought that was a pretty standard feature.
> 
> It shouldn't be a problem in my home theater but we'd also like to take it outside in the summers to do "movie night" on the back of the house. (We've got a 2-story windowless area that's great for projection.) But in these cases we'd HAVE to have keystone correction.
> 
> Can any of you 8350 owners confirm or correct this?
> 
> Thanks.



It is my understanding that with the lens-shift feature, keystone correction is not necessary. The instructions say to keep the projector perpendicular (square plumb/level) to your viewing surface. When you turn the lens-shift dials, it moves the picture up/down left/right, while maintaining a picture that does not need keystone correction. If you were to angle the projector, for example from a ceiling to the center of a screen, it would not look right. It must be square/level to the screen.


So to answer your question, it does not have keystone correction, but it does not need it due to the lens-shift feature.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22600312
> 
> 
> Black Friday at Fry's 8350 $799.00 !!!



Is Fry's Electronics an authorized Epson retailer? If I have bad luck and get a defective one, can I return it directly to Epson to get a new one or a replacement? Thanks for any info MississippiMan.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7530#post_22600312
> 
> 
> Black Friday at Fry's 8350 $799.00 !!!



Has there been a $799 deal on the Epson 8350 on Black Friday 2012?


----------



## sschantz

Is there any way to program the projector to shut off the first time instead of having to press off 2x. I have 2 harmony remotes and it is annoying that the projetor never shuts off the first time.


Hope I am explaining this correctly.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22629277
> 
> 
> Is there any way to program the projector to shut off the first time instead of having to press off 2x. I have 2 harmony remotes and it is annoying that the projetor never shuts off the first time.
> 
> Hope I am explaining this correctly.



Call Harmony Tech Support. There is a command they can give you (...I believe they upload it directly for you...or instruct you on how to program it...) that will program the Remote to introduce 2 separate commands spaced 2 seconds apart.


There is no feature on the PJ that will change the "Shut-Off" command to just one "off" command.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22618471
> 
> 
> Has there been a $799 deal on the Epson 8350 on Black Friday 2012?



No...it was a bogus report, based on last year's offering. In my own excitement I did not bother to vet the info. My Bad entirely. Sorry.


----------



## DrewB

Im a little surprised that you guys are already talking new bulb after only 1000 hours of usage.


----------



## Roach360

Just purchased a new 8350 from amazon for $1100, and I'm preparing for its arrival.


And of course I'm afraid of a lamp breaking early!


I see people pointing to how many hours they have on a lamp when it goes out. I was wondering how you could possibly check this (Since your bulb goes out), or if it's just an guess/approximation.


Also, has anyone added an external piece of air filter to their intake to help combat the dust problem? If that'll limit airflow, I would be happy to add another external fan to push air through the filter. Ideas?


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roach360*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22631344
> 
> 
> Just purchased a new 8350 from amazon for $1100, and I'm preparing for its arrival.
> 
> And of course I'm afraid of a lamp breaking early!
> 
> I see people pointing to how many hours they have on a lamp when it goes out. I was wondering how you could possibly check this (Since your bulb goes out), or if it's just an guess/approximation.
> 
> Also, has anyone added an external piece of air filter to their intake to help combat the dust problem? If that'll limit airflow, I would be happy to add another external fan to push air through the filter. Ideas?



I thought it had a bulb rating of around 4000 hrs? I am replacing my 8350 with a Epson 3020 which will be here tomorrow. I only have 89 Hrs on the 8350







and I am already replacing it. I love the picture of the 8350 but I also have a JVC X3 and the 3D is really bad on it so here comes the 3020 for what I hope is really good 3D? Impulse buy on black friday. I havent even thought about what to do with the 8350.


----------



## HDTV Maniac

Hi everyone, I am pretty much settled on buying the Epson 8350. Now the route I am considering taking is to get it refurbished for just under $1k directly from Epson here in Canada. Just wanted to make sure what the 2 year warranty really covers and that it is the same as if I bought the unit new. Here is what the Epson website says about the warranty:

_Two-year projector limited warranty, Epson Road Service program, Epson PrivateLine® dedicated toll-free support and 90-day lamp limited warranty

Get additional extended service plans, including exchange/repairs plans and replacement plans_


Can anyone tell me if this is the standard warranty? I am a little concerned with the Limited warranty wording and the fact that they offer extender service plans for exchanges/repairs. It seems like people on this forum get their Epson's exchanged and replaced and nobody mentions anything about extended plans.


Please let me know so I have my mind at ease and order the projector.


----------



## HDTV Maniac

I am also looking into getting the following mount at the same time:

http://www.mountdirect.com/LFM_Projector_Mount_Black_p/lfm.htm 


Anybody have experience with this company and/or particular mount? I am interested in it due to it's low profile (only 2.5" tall) so that the projector is as close as possible to the ceiling (my ceiling are 93.5" high).


----------



## nitemare004

It looks like one that doesn't have long enough brackets, like mine. I got one like that anyway because they're cheap. I found a video on youtube that shows how to extend them with additional brackets from a hardware store. Ends up still being very strong.

Search monoprice projector mount. Might be a better mount as well since you can get it extended from the ceiling to get it square - because, apparently, this projectors image doesn't look too well when not level.


----------



## HDTV Maniac

Need the mount to be low profile, the one's from Monoprice seem to extend way too much.


----------



## soulcamp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTV Maniac*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22636077
> 
> 
> I am also looking into getting the following mount at the same time:
> http://www.mountdirect.com/LFM_Projector_Mount_Black_p/lfm.htm
> 
> Anybody have experience with this company and/or particular mount? I am interested in it due to it's low profile (only 2.5" tall) so that the projector is as close as possible to the ceiling (my ceiling are 93.5" high).



I ordered a mount from MountDirect and installed my 8700UB on it a couple days ago. I am quite pleased. I have a tall cathedral ceiling, so I needed the NPL will an extension. The mount seems quite solid and I had no problems adjusting it. The LFM mount appears to be about the same, except the top part is welded directly to the ceiling plate. The only problem I see is that it may be difficult to adjust the three locking screws that hold the bottom part of the mount (which attaches to the projector) to the top part (which bolts to the ceiling). You'll need a L-shaped allen wrench with a long handle to reach them. Also, the screws that come with it for attaching the projector to the mount are pretty cheap. You'll want to pick up some better ones from the hardware store (M4 - 10mm).


Overall, I'd say that for half the price of a Chief mount, I'm impressed.


----------



## soulcamp

Also, since I believe the 8350 has the same mounting holes as my 8700UB, you'll need to use the additional extensions (which are included) for the projector mount. So you'll probably be more like 3 to 3.5" from the ceiling rather than the 2.5" they advertise.


----------



## HDTV Maniac

I don't get why I would be an additional 1" from the ceiling.


----------



## soulcamp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTV Maniac*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7560#post_22636790
> 
> 
> I don't get why I would be an additional 1" from the ceiling.



The extensions are slightly angled. Here's a few pictures of my installation that might help:


----------



## DL4567

This might sound like a dumb question, but here goes....


I've got 31 hours now on my 8350 and love it so far. Last night after watching a couple of movies, I decided to check out the different "color modes" for the first time. I didn't know what it was set on for all of my viewing so far, and turns out it was on "natural" mode. Being happy with that, I was just curious to see what the others look like. I switched to "living room" mode, and as expected the fan got louder with the brighter picture. BUT, when I switched back to "natural," the fan didn't immediately go back to quieter. I waited about 30 seconds to a minute, and it was still running the louder fan. I shrugged it off, and shut the projector down, thinking it'll be back to normal next time I turn it on leaving it on "natural" mode. But of course now it's kind of bugging me.


Every time I've messed with settings before, like between normal and eco lamp modes, the fan always got louder and quieter within 1-2 seconds of changing the setting. I would go turn it on right now and check, but I don't want to turn it on just for a couple of minutes and turn it right back off, and it might be a few days before I watch something with it. Am I worrying for nothing?


----------



## HDTV Maniac

Just pulled the trigger and purchased an Epson 8350 refurbished directly from Epson.ca!!! Very excited, can't wait for it to arrive. In the meantime, if anyone wants to let me know of anything I should check and how when the unit arrives (convergence, etc.) to make sure that it is in good working order, please feel free to post. Thank you all for the help on this forum in making my decision for this projector. I hope that I will be as pleased with it as everyone else seems to be.


----------



## SteveRo

Good moning all!


I purchased and recv'd my Epson 8350 last week - I've been very happy so far.
















This replaced an ancient Benq 8700 (720p) which died due to a bad power board.










Configuration: I am using a Zector DVI switcher (DVS5.1) to feed the projector dishnetwork, (receiver VIP722 DVR-H) , OPPO DVD player (model OPDV971H) and HTPC (Asus M5G, Sandy 2600K and an old video card nvidia geforce 8600 GT). I could use the intel onboard video processor Intel HD 3000 but I didn't see any difference between it and the 8600 card.


So I have a few questions for all the great guru's here -


1. I am having blue ray playback problems trying to use either VLC or Windows Media players thru the computer (anyDVDHD installed), if I switch to a Sony BDP-S590 Blue Ray Player will I have HDCP problems due to the Zector switcher?



2. My other question may be even more of an HTPC question but I will ask it here anyway - when trying to get the projector to sync up with the computer I cannot use 60hz, only 1920x1080 *50hz* will work - picture seems good most of the time but I do get an occassional glitch. The DVI run from the zector is long - ~50FT.


Thanks much for any and all help!!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SteveRo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22660821
> 
> 
> Good moning all!
> 
> I purchased and recv'd my Epson 8350 last week - I've been very happy so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This replaced an ancient Benq 8700 (720p) which died due to a bad power board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Configuration: I am using a Zector DVI switcher (DVS5.1) to feed the projector dishnetwork, (receiver VIP722 DVR-H) , OPPO DVD player (model OPDV971H) and HTPC (Asus M5G, Sandy 2600K and an old video card nvidia geforce 8600 GT). I could use the intel onboard video processor Intel HD 3000 but I didn't see any difference between it and the 8600 card.
> 
> So I have a few questions for all the great guru's here -
> 
> 1. I am having blue ray playback problems trying to use either VLC or Windows Media players thru the computer (anyDVDHD installed), if I switch to a Sony BDP-S590 Blue Ray Player will I have HDCP problems due to the Zector switcher?
> 
> 2. My other question may be even more of an HTPC question but I will ask it here anyway - when trying to get the projector to sync up with the computer I cannot use 60hz, only 1920x1080 *50hz* will work - picture seems good most of the time but I do get an occassional glitch. The DVI run from the zector is long - ~50FT.
> 
> Thanks much for any and all help!!


 

I guess you have a reason to use Zector switch and DVI instead of HDMI cables and an AVR to do the switching?

 

I like my newer AMD-HDMI card over my old 8600gts-DVI. Check out XBMC(dxva2)  and my config.

 

Connect HTPC directly to projector (no switch) to test. Would also be good to test with a perfect 1080p device like a real BluRay player. Find out what works and where problems follow ... and go from there.


----------



## SteveRo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22661555
> 
> 
> I guess you have a reason to use Zector switch and DVI instead of HDMI cables and an AVR to do the switching?
> 
> 
> I like my newer AMD-HDMI card over my old 8600gts-DVI. Check out XBMC(dxva2)  and my config.
> 
> 
> Connect HTPC directly to projector (no switch) to test. Would also be good to test with a perfect 1080p device like a real BluRay player. Find out what works and where problems follow ... and go from there.



Thanks!


Looks like neither the zector switch nor the 50ft dvi cable will carry the sony bdp-s590 signal










What is the wireless hdmi solution everyone is using?

The thought is toslink from player to receiver and then wireless HDMI from the player to the projector?


Also anyone have an idea why I can get the projector to only sync up with the computer at 50hz?


----------



## azdude

Not sure anyone here is collecting this sort of data anymore, but here's my stats for my first *bulb failure*:


Hours: ~2600

Time: 21 months after purchase (original bulb)

Mode: ~15% Cinema, 50% Natural, 20% Living Room, 15% Dynamic

(~300 ft altitude)


I'm sure the lamp has been dimming steadily for many months (since day 1?), but I hadn't actively noticed it until last night, when it was _very noticeably_ dim. This morning, my wife called to say it had died.


Granted this is quite awhile past many 'premature' failures here, but I called Epson to see if I was eligible for their well-known generous warranty replacement. Seems so -- ought to have one in 2-7 business days. Just wow. Glad I bought this unit.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azdude*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22665830
> 
> 
> Not sure anyone here is collecting this sort of data anymore, but here's my stats for my first *bulb failure*:
> 
> Hours: ~2600
> 
> Time: 21 months after purchase (original bulb)
> 
> Mode: ~15% Cinema, 50% Natural, 20% Living Room, 15% Dynamic
> 
> (~300 ft altitude)
> 
> I'm sure the lamp has been dimming steadily for many months (since day 1?), but I hadn't actively noticed it until last night, when it was _very noticeably_ dim. This morning, my wife called to say it had died.
> 
> Granted this is quite awhile past many 'premature' failures here, but I called Epson to see if I was eligible for their well-known generous warranty replacement. Seems so -- ought to have one in 2-7 business days. Just wow. Glad I bought this unit.



Good to know, and WOW on Epson replacing it. I have just about 100hrs on mine now and hopefully thats a call I will not have to make for quite sometime.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SteveRo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22664381
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Looks like neither the zector switch nor the 50ft dvi cable will carry the sony bdp-s590 signal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the wireless hdmi solution everyone is using?
> 
> The thought is toslink from player to receiver and then wireless HDMI from the player to the projector?
> 
> Also anyone have an idea why I can get the projector to only sync up with the computer at 50hz?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXyhKMadKhc

 

Is something set to PAL (50 hz) ?

 

No toslink. Just HDMI cables everythere...

 

I still say a heavy gauge wire is better:

 

Final 57ft HDMI chain to Epson 8350...

Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR

2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0) (MonoPrice # 5312)

45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable

HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (MonoPrice # 2849)

12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector

18 ft. from wall/screen = (96" or 8ft diag. image)


----------



## Diesel 48

Maybe a dumb question. I have the epson setup in a complete dark room. Projecting onto an Visual Apex screen. Anyone have good calibration numbers for this setup? I tried a calibration disc a few days ago but when doing the brightness setting I could not see that much of a difference. I want to see if I am close to what it should be.


----------



## SteveRo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22665911
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXyhKMadKhc
> 
> 
> Is something set to PAL (50 hz) ?
> 
> 
> No toslink. Just HDMI cables everythere...
> 
> 
> I still say a heavy gauge wire is better:
> 
> 
> Final 57ft HDMI chain to Epson 8350...
> 
> 
> Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR
> 
> 
> 2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
> 
> 
> 4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0) (MonoPrice # 5312)
> 
> 
> 45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable
> 
> 
> HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (MonoPrice # 2849)
> 
> 
> 12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector
> 
> 
> 18 ft. from wall/screen = (96" or 8ft diag. image)



Nothing set to pal that I can think of.

dishnetwork 1080p and oppo 1080i seems to work fine at 60hz but computer resolution only works at 1080p 50hz - odd problem?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SteveRo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22666738
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing set to pal that I can think of.
> 
> dishnetwork 1080p and oppo 1080i seems to work fine at 60hz but computer resolution only works at 1080p 50hz - odd problem?


First, this isn't an 8350 or projector problem, so you should seek answers in HTPC forum (or likely nVidia forum). You just got lucky with me knowing HTPC and used an 8600gts years ago.

 

It's likely a problem with PC, 8600, or it's drivers. My ATI-AMD card allows you to force HD-TV paramaters (if EDID info is wacky). A nice AMD 5xxx or 6xxx card is pretty cheap. It will also have a real (full featured) HDMI port on it. After using both, I have found AMD cards much better for HTPC (features, hardware, and software drivers/control panel).

 

And I fought it a long time (so I could use older-spec machine for HTPC) ... but I've found that Win7 is better for HTPC.


----------



## SteveRo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22666851
> 
> 
> First, this isn't an 8350 or projector problem, so you should seek answers in HTPC forum (or likely nVidia forum). You just got lucky with me knowing HTPC and used an 8600gts years ago.
> 
> 
> It's likely a problem with PC, 8600, or it's drivers. My ATI-AMD card allows you to force HD-TV paramaters (if EDID info is wacky). A nice AMD 5xxx or 6xxx card is pretty cheap. It will also have a real (full featured) HDMI port on it. After using both, I have found AMD cards much better for HTPC (features, hardware, and software drivers/control panel).
> 
> 
> And I fought it a long time (so I could use older-spec machine for HTPC) ... but I've found that Win7 is better for HTPC.



Agree, since 60hz is no problem for dish or oppo - this is probably an htpc problem.


One other projector question - am i giving up anything image quality wise or am I placing any extra stress on the projector by running at 50hz?


Thanks again for you help!


----------



## F12Bwth

  
 


Oh Season 1 of game of thrones has never looked so good.. 92" Greywolf II ~10 feet away


Link to my calibration image http://i7.minus.com/ibsUcYZu3Zzkxl.png and explanation image http://i2.minus.com/iqQp2SJhL7nFT.png . Got tired of looking for a good one. Still could use an update.


Anyone know if putting my unit in high altitude mode is going to be harmful if I am say... 160ft above sea-level. My best guess is it will just baby the bulb more and put up the fan which I have no issue with.


----------



## curtlots

Those results look fantastic to me. That's a great test pattern, I don't recognize it from any disc I have used, what is it from?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22670143
> 
> 
> Those results look fantastic to me. That's a great test pattern, I don't recognize it from any disc I have used, what is it from?


I was wondering that also ...

 

I found these:

 

http://www.google.com/search?q=1080p+test+card&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&ie=&oe =


----------



## Roach360




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azdude*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22665830
> 
> 
> Not sure anyone here is collecting this sort of data anymore, but here's my stats for my first *bulb failure*:
> 
> Hours: ~2600
> 
> Time: 21 months after purchase (original bulb)
> 
> Mode: ~15% Cinema, 50% Natural, 20% Living Room, 15% Dynamic
> 
> (~300 ft altitude)
> 
> I'm sure the lamp has been dimming steadily for many months (since day 1?), but I hadn't actively noticed it until last night, when it was _very noticeably_ dim. This morning, my wife called to say it had died.
> 
> Granted this is quite awhile past many 'premature' failures here, but I called Epson to see if I was eligible for their well-known generous warranty replacement. Seems so -- ought to have one in 2-7 business days. Just wow. Glad I bought this unit.



I have asked this before, but if you have a lamp go out, how do you know all of these stats, or do you just check them regularly?


----------



## sksahai

*Projector Mounting with Sanus VMPR1 Tilt & Swivel Ceiling Projector Mount*


All:

I would like to give back to the AVSCommunity by sharing the pics of my 8350 mounted with a Sanus VMPR1. I tried to find pics earlier on how to screw in the arms of the mount (before purchasing it), but I could not. I hope this post will help someone out.



1. Attaching the arms
 


2. Making sure the arms are level before hanging the epson
 


3. Final placement with surge protector and HDMI cable and the white covers.
 




Cheers!


----------



## buc18

I have had my 8350 for a couple of months now and I have never experienced any issues with it until tonight. While watching a movie the picture kind of flashed to a full screen of "snow" and then the picture came back to normal. About an hour later it did the same thing as well as going to a completely black screen before returning to normal. I have an oppo 83 and an onkyo 605 with the HDMI running from the onkyo. Could it be some sort of hand shake issue. If so, why is it just showing up now? HDMI length is approx 25 feet. The 8350 replaced an HD70 Optoma. I never experienced this kind of issue with it. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buc18*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22677197
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 for a couple of months now and I have never experienced any issues with it until tonight. While watching a movie the picture kind of flashed to a full screen of "snow" and then the picture came back to normal. About an hour later it did the same thing as well as going to a completely black screen before returning to normal. I have an oppo 83 and an onkyo 605 with the HDMI running from the onkyo. Could it be some sort of hand shake issue. If so, why is it just showing up now? HDMI length is approx 25 feet. The 8350 replaced an HD70 Optoma. I never experienced this kind of issue with it. Any help would be appreciated.


Re-seat all your HDMI cables.

 

Are you running gear on a UPS or APC? Is there a chance the power flickered or browned-out?

 

Lots of people seem to have problems with HDMI/video processor boards over-heating on Onkyo ... especially if you don't run a fan on it. It can only take that heat for so many years.


----------



## buc18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22677351
> 
> 
> Re-seat all your HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> Are you running gear on a UPS or APC? Is there a chance the power flickered or browned-out?
> 
> 
> Lots of people seem to have problems with HDMI/video processor boards over-heating on Onkyo ... especially if you don't run a fan on it. It can only take that heat for so many years.



I will try re-seating my cables. So are you thinking this is not an issue with my new 8350 but with another component (the Onkyo) ? I have had this receiver for 3 or 4 years.


----------



## sksahai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buc18*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22677197
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 for a couple of months now and I have never experienced any issues with it until tonight. While watching a movie the picture kind of flashed to a full screen of "snow" and then the picture came back to normal. About an hour later it did the same thing as well as going to a completely black screen before returning to normal. I have an oppo 83 and an onkyo 605 with the HDMI running from the onkyo. Could it be some sort of hand shake issue. If so, why is it just showing up now? HDMI length is approx 25 feet. The 8350 replaced an HD70 Optoma. I never experienced this kind of issue with it. Any help would be appreciated.



Wow! Exact same thing happened to me last night! 2 episodes of snow just as described while watching netflix. I have a Denon 3312c with about 30+ feet of HDMI cable. Our room was warmer than usual with 9 kids over for a marathon of netflix watching, but the room temp was no more than 78 degrees as far as I can tell. I have no idea what the temp on the projector or receiver was My 8350 is also new/refurbished as of October.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buc18*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22677731
> 
> 
> 
> I will try re-seating my cables. So are you thinking this is not an issue with my new 8350 but with another component (the Onkyo) ? I have had this receiver for 3 or 4 years.


I can't tell from here. What I do think is you need to trouble-shoot it. Eliminate and move devices and see where the problem follows.

 

Like connect Oppo to 8350 without Onkyo... that kind of thing. Good luck.


----------



## buc18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sksahai*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22678304
> 
> 
> Wow! Exact same thing happened to me last night! 2 episodes of snow just as described while watching netflix. I have a Denon 3312c with about 30+ feet of HDMI cable. Our room was warmer than usual with 9 kids over for a marathon of netflix watching, but the room temp was no more than 78 degrees as far as I can tell. I have no idea what the temp on the projector or receiver was My 8350 is also new/refurbished as of October.



I don't think mine was a heat related issue because the first time it happened was only 6 minutes into the movie so the receiver and projector had only been on 10 minutes max. I know the Onkyo does run hot though.


----------



## buc18

Watched a movie tonight and experienced no issues whatsoever. The only thing I did was re-seat HDMI connections. Don't know if that really made any difference at all. But it was nice watching a movie from beginning to end without any problems.


----------



## sksahai

I think you are correct, not a heat issue, nor a projector issue. I tried to watch a movie using my WDTV Live SMP on netflix and was having the same issues last night also (every 30 seconds or so). I switched to the DVD player and used the netfix option with no issues (was causing the snowing 2 nights ago). I did notice that whnever the snow picture flaw happened, the receiver's panel showed lack of signal from the WDTV Live. I need to reseat the HDMI cords and try again.


The projector was making noises during the snow flaw/cut out due to the autoiris engaging


----------



## PKnightley

I have to give shout out to all you 8350 owners and your advice. I read about the generous bulb replacement behavior from EPSON (they check your serial # of course) and called mine in and got a replacement.


- I have 1482hrs. on my original bulb

- I've used my unit fairly actively over the past 1.5 years.

- Now it's so dim now that it's not enjoyable even in a pitch dark room setting.


I also went ahead and called in the Best Buy extended warranty claim which got me the one-time bulb replacement there as well. I never buy extended warranties but knowing what I read from AVSForum, I took a chance knowing bulb life was going to be way shorter, the warranty purchase covered the cost of the bulb so I suppose I'm even. Calling EPSON got me an extra bulb so big thanks!!!


----------



## yusoslo

I am looking to buy the 8350 this week. I have a 17Wx24D room that I have a 13' viewing distance and want a 106-120" screen. This is in a walk out basement that has fully dimming recessed lighting. Gray walls, dark gray ceiling and windows on the back wall with blinds. I am looking at screens and what to see what you guys recommend so I can watch football during the day with natural ambient lighting, as well as great movie quality at night. I dont want to spend a ton on the screen. I am looking at fixed frame setups. I see Elite, Elitech (whats the difference?), and VA screens as well. I am leaning towards the gray Elitech for $290 on amazon. It seems gray is best for brighter environments. Any input would be great. Thanks.


----------



## Shad0wDK

How does this projector compare to the newer TW-5910 if we are talking 2D only? I know 8350 (called TW3200 here) got lens shift, but I don't need that in my setup, so that shoudn't be a factor


Would it be worth it to spend the extra bit of money for a 5910 over a 8350 if we only consider 2D picture quality (disregard 3D completely)?


----------



## jmoramz

Just thought I'd post regarding the deal I just picked up. I looked up all the local(within 50 miles) Best Buys websites and looked under there open box items. I ran across 2 Epson 8350's and immediately called. The first store said it was a returned item, checked out by Geek squad and everything was good. They wanted $1,079 for it. Not much of a discount. I called the next store and they said it was just opened to show a potential buyer its size and it was never used. They wanted $799. I quickly jumped in my car and drove 33 miles to pick it up. At that price, I purchased Best Buys 4 yr extended warranty for $179. Once I got home with it, I hooked up my laptop to it for a quik image and it was absolutely crystal right out of the box. I have another few weeks till my HT is ready for it but I could not pass up a deal like that. I feel this was an excellent deal and thought I'd share that with all of you. Many more deals out there Im sure.


----------



## tbernot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoramz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22696525
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd post regarding the deal I just picked up. I looked up all the local(within 50 miles) Best Buys websites and looked under there open box items. I ran across 2 Epson 8350's and immediately called. The first store said it was a returned item, checked out by Geek squad and everything was good. They wanted $1,079 for it. Not much of a discount. I called the next store and they said it was just opened to show a potential buyer its size and it was never used. They wanted $799. I quickly jumped in my car and drove 33 miles to pick it up. At that price, I purchased Best Buys 4 yr extended warranty for $179. Once I got home with it, I hooked up my laptop to it for a quik image and it was absolutely crystal right out of the box. I have another few weeks till my HT is ready for it but I could not pass up a deal like that. I feel this was an excellent deal and thought I'd share that with all of you. Many more deals out there Im sure.



Well, I just had Best Buy match Amazon's current price so I have one in my hands now. We'll see how long I can go before opening it in the hopes the price drops to $999 soon.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22670143
> 
> 
> Those results look fantastic to me. That's a great test pattern, I don't recognize it from any disc I have used, what is it from?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22670363
> 
> 
> I was wondering that also ...



I made it. I have always tried to find useful patterns and my Photo skills are just high enough to make my own patterns. I may make an updated one with color gamma in it too.

http://i7.minus.com/ibsUcYZu3Zzkxl.png 
http://i2.minus.com/iqQp2SJhL7nFT.png 
http://i5.minus.com/iB1iHGt4hycFs.png 


View all at 1:1 zoom

EDIT.. Third time asking. What does High Altitude mode do. I have it enabled even though I am NOT high Altitude.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22708152
> 
> 
> I made it. I have always tried to find useful patterns and my Photo skills are just high enough to make my own patterns. I may make an updated one with color gamma in it too.
> http://i7.minus.com/ibsUcYZu3Zzkxl.png
> http://i2.minus.com/iqQp2SJhL7nFT.png
> http://i5.minus.com/iB1iHGt4hycFs.png
> 
> View all at 1:1 zoom
> EDIT.. Third time asking. What does High Altitude mode do. I have it enabled even though I am NOT high Altitude.



It causes the fan to spin a little faster to keep the bulb cool. Many people keep in on even in low altitude areas to help prolong bulb life. I do not know if it makes a difference or not.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dolphinc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22708188
> 
> 
> It causes the fan to spin a little faster to keep the bulb cool. Many people keep in on even in low altitude areas to help prolong bulb life. I do not know if it makes a difference or not.



All I wanted to know, thanks. I think it may also increase the spin down time but I would need to test.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Any ideas on how to stop my lens shift from migrating daily?


----------



## carp

Mine shifts with heavy bass so I use tape to keep it in place and it works great.


----------



## Duke Broadway

do you just tape the shift knobs or the lens focus/zoom ring?


----------



## carp

On the up/down shift dial. The bass makes it "slip" downward, as much as a foot and a half on the screen. The tape keeps it from happening.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22709225
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to stop my lens shift from migrating daily?


A large rubber band, thick belt, maybe some rubber tubing with elastic inside.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22709225
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to stop my lens shift from migrating daily?


Sorry, I thought you said focus ring .

 

Maybe a piece of rubber in the shape of a thick "T" wedged into the opening. Top of the T should keep it from accidentally falling inside (don't let that happen).


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22709262
> 
> 
> On the up/down shift dial. The bass makes it "slip" downward, as much as a foot and a half on the screen. The tape keeps it from happening.



I will give that a go. Thanks


----------



## fcastle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Diesel 48*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22665946
> 
> 
> Maybe a dumb question. I have the epson setup in a complete dark room. Projecting onto an Visual Apex screen. Anyone have good calibration numbers for this setup? I tried a calibration disc a few days ago but when doing the brightness setting I could not see that much of a difference. I want to see if I am close to what it should be.



Same question here except I will be using the gray spandex over white spandex combo.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fcastle*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22709570
> 
> 
> Same question here except I will be using the gray spandex over white spandex combo.



Not sure if just copying numbers is the best way to go about. Slight variations in manufacturing of the projector and screen, changes in screen size and gain, room color and distance and bulb life will affect the picture too much for that. I suggest getting the proper patterns and having at it on your lonesome. It took me 5 hours to finally settle on a calibration. But I have special concerns with my PC output having to be modified for my GDM-FW900 and clone mode takes the color gamma over to the secondary output. However my Cablevision box output also benefits from the adjustments I made so not sure why that is. All the pre-defined settings seem way off to my expectations.


----------



## Hospitalhunny

I upgraded my husband to an 8350 from a 710HD recently and we're on our 4th unit now. We've had nothing but problems with the 8350. I'm hoping the 4th unit I get tomorrow will work fine. Each time the convergence issues have been worse. =(


I really want to like this model but all of these Epson problems is turning us off. Going to start looking for another make/model just in case.


----------



## buc18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buc18*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22677197
> 
> 
> I have had my 8350 for a couple of months now and I have never experienced any issues with it until tonight. While watching a movie the picture kind of flashed to a full screen of "snow" and then the picture came back to normal. About an hour later it did the same thing as well as going to a completely black screen before returning to normal. I have an oppo 83 and an onkyo 605 with the HDMI running from the onkyo. Could it be some sort of hand shake issue. If so, why is it just showing up now? HDMI length is approx 25 feet. The 8350 replaced an HD70 Optoma. I never experienced this kind of issue with it. Any help would be appreciated.



This is a post I found on the Best Buy website that describes exactly what I have experienced. It happened initially when I first posted this and did not re-occur until last night for a very brief (maybe a few seconds) period. I am wondering if this is a HDMI hardware failure described below:



What's great about it: Picture

What's not so great: On the third one in 2 months!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did a lot of research before buying this epson projector. It does have a great picture when it works. I am on my second one sent to me by epson. I only had the first 8350 for a month before there was a "hardware failure" according to epson. The picture would just go to a white snow screen while viewing the movies. There was an issue with the hdmi inputs. I tried both inputs before trying another source, same problem.

Then epson did send me another unit. Granted it was not a new unit like I paid for at BestBuy, but a refurbished unit that was used and obviously someone else's old problem! Just like I figured the was something wrong with the refurb. The Image projected on the right of the screen especially when it had to project whites against a black background causes a white shadow effect that is very noticeable and washes out the color during normal scenes.

I am now getting a third 8350 from epson, which they gave me a harder time by the way on the customer service line to get, I hope this will be the last one.

So good luck and beware.



I am wondering if I should contact Epson about this and see what they say.


----------



## mcmountainman

Hi try these settings for your grey spandex worked great for me. As always your room lighting etc... etc... make a huge difference but hey you can always set them up in a memory slot - nothing to lose .

I copied this from another forum - I didn't actually calibrate my 8350 . I do think these settings are the best pic I've gotten on my screen even after using spears & muncil etc... I DID CALIBRATE BRIGHTNESS AND CONTRAST after applying these ! !

Tom O.




Natural

Brightness -11

Contrast 8

Color Saturation 0

Tint -2

Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0

Abs. Color Temp. 6500K

Skin Tone 0


Advanced...


Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5


RGB

Offset R 6

Offset G 0

Offset B 23

Gain R -2

Gain G 0

Gain B -25


RGBCMY

R 0 -13 -7

G -37 -49 48

B -7 10 -6

C 0 -41 31

M -16 -9 -16

Y -3 -9 8


Power Consumption ECO

Auto Iris Normal


Signal [Advanced]

Noise Reduction Off

EPSON Super White Off

Overscan Off

HDMI Video Range Expanded


----------



## kawie01

I have a fairly great pic. One Problem is i seem to have red faces. Any thing specific to try or change on my settings?


----------



## domingos38

whats the fair price for a 1 year old epson 8350?


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hospitalhunny*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22716032
> 
> 
> I upgraded my husband to an 8350 from a 710HD recently and we're on our 4th unit now. We've had nothing but problems with the 8350. I'm hoping the 4th unit I get tomorrow will work fine. Each time the convergence issues have been worse. =(
> 
> I really want to like this model but all of these Epson problems is turning us off. Going to start looking for another make/model just in case.



I have come to expect a bit of convergence issues with 3lcd


Here is what my 8350 looks like far left

 


Bottom

 


Image that was projected and zoomed to 1:1

 


The center is perfect and only the far outsides show these issues. You really don't notice it on anything but a calibration shot to check. Even text from a normal distance looks perfect.


----------



## kriktsemaj99

That looks more like CA (chromatic aberration) than a convergence problem. CA is due to the lens rather than misalignment of the panels. It would be interesting to know how much it various from unit to unit, but low-cost projectors are always going to have some degree of CA at the edges because good optics are expensive. Using lens shift also tends to make CA worse.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kriktsemaj99*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22721969
> 
> 
> That looks more like CA (chromatic aberration) than a convergence problem. CA is due to the lens rather than misalignment of the panels. It would be interesting to know how much it various from unit to unit, but low-cost projectors are always going to have some degree of CA at the edges because good optics are expensive. Using lens shift also tends to make CA worse.



That makes more sense. Thank you.


----------



## KEtheredge87

Did the suggestion of running in normal "non-eco" mode for a few hours fix your apparent brightness issues? My bulb just hit th ~450 hour mark and I noticed it doing the same thing whether I was watching TV or playing anything from my PS3. I hope this isn't a problem that will get worse!


EDIT: Sorry...I intended to reference an older post. Correction coming soon.


----------



## ClemsonKev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/5370#post_21052724
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8350. You get a new 2 yr warranty, Bulb Replacement over that period, and more brightness without loss of Contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> What's not to like?



I thought the bulb only had a 90 day warranty?


----------



## Shad0wDK

Hi, I just bought a TW3200 (should be quite similar to 8350) but I only have a component cable, so I was wondering if I'd need to get an HDMI cable in order to benefit from 1080p? Is this possible with a component cable?


I am using an older Sony Bluray player.


Hope someone knows, thanks


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shad0wDK*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22732137
> 
> 
> but I only have a component cable, so I was wondering if I'd need to get an HDMI cable in order to benefit from 1080p?


Component only does 720p. It's also analog.

 

HDMI is 1080p and digital color and brightness.


----------



## scl23enn4m3

Can someone confirm where the rear IR receiver on the projector is for me? Mine is mounted upside down and back against the wall. The only thing I see is an IR receiver looking window at the very center back towards the side with the lens shift adjustments (the top if it's sitting on a table).


----------



## David_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scl23enn4m3*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22736042
> 
> 
> Can someone confirm where the rear IR receiver on the projector is for me? Mine is mounted upside down and back against the wall. The only thing I see is an IR receiver looking window at the very center back towards the side with the lens shift adjustments (the top if it's sitting on a table).



The manual shows the IR receiver locations on page 7. What you describe matches up with the location of the rear IR receiver (just above the connectors, if looking from the back in table-top orientation). Mine is shelf mounted up too high for me to easily confirm that right now, but I have no reason to doubt the manual.

The front IR receiver is basically next to the lens, and facing front. FYI, I haven't had any issues bouncing IR off the screen and hitting that front receiver (or off the TV when the screen is retracted, for that matter). I'd think that should work even for most ceiling-mount situations.


----------



## avsforumsdsd

Coolme,

I have the Blu Ray version of the Spears & Munsil and DVE.

To me the Blacks are really good. But don't forget, I upgraded from PLHC400. 720p.


eliwankenobi,

There are two settings for the Iris (Normal or High Speed).

I have it set to Normal and I sit right under and to the side of the projector on a shelf.

I did not notice any noise last night. I will check this when I have it on tonight.

I only noise I did hear was if you change the Color Mode from say Cinema to Dynamic.

You can hear the fan gear up.


----------



## scl23enn4m3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David_R*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22736324
> 
> 
> The manual shows the IR receiver locations on page 7. What you describe matches up with the location of the rear IR receiver (just above the connectors, if looking from the back in table-top orientation). Mine is shelf mounted up too high for me to easily confirm that right now, but I have no reason to doubt the manual.
> 
> The front IR receiver is basically next to the lens, and facing front. FYI, I haven't had any issues bouncing IR off the screen and hitting that front receiver (or off the TV when the screen is retracted, for that matter). I'd think that should work even for most ceiling-mount situations.



Thanks for the response David. I threw the manual out long ago, and didn't even think about looking for it online. I've been bouncing it off the screen as well, but I'm transitioning to wifi control so I need to wire an emitter to it. Thanks for confirming!


----------



## Shad0wDK

Just got my new projector (TW3200) installed and I really like it - great picture









I noticed that in the Info tab of the menu it says 720p in resolution (even though I'm feeding it with a 1080p bluray disc)- does this mean it's only running 720p?


I can't really understand if this is the case though as the image is so sharp, I would bee sure that it is actually 1080p (much sharper than my old 720p projector).. so I'm a little confused here


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shad0wDK*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22742803
> 
> 
> Just got my new projector (TW3200) installed and I really like it - great picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that in the Info tab of the menu it says 720p in resolution (even though I'm feeding it with a 1080p bluray disc)- does this mean it's only running 720p?
> 
> I can't really understand if this is the case though as the image is so sharp, I would bee sure that it is actually 1080p (much sharper than my old 720p projector).. so I'm a little confused here



Check the settings on your Blu-ray player, it's probably set to the output default of 720p.


----------



## Shad0wDK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7620#post_22742918
> 
> 
> Check the settings on your Blu-ray player, it's probably set to the output default of 720p.



I did look but there doesnt appear to be any settings where you choose the output resolution?


----------



## F12Bwth

Is it hooked up HDMI? If it is component it will only be 720p.


----------



## Shad0wDK

There was a button on my bluray player that I missed - it's a bit strange that it wasn't in the menu - but it's working now






The difference is not as big as I thought, but maybe it's probably I'm not sitting that close - and it looks fantastic anyways.


Thanks


----------



## WannaKnowTech

Just bought this off Epson's website. They had it for $899.99 Refurbished, the cheapest I have seen it anywhere.


----------



## Carlos_

Hello.


I am a projector newbie.


I am considering purchasing this projector.


One of the complaints of people who have this projector is that it does not transmit very black blacks.


My question is the following:


Will the blacks that this projector is able to transmit get better and increase ( or if not increased be perceived by the human eye as being more black) as the size of the screen gets smaller?


I am considering 3 different screen sizes: 120 inches, 106 inches, and 100 inches.


Assuming that the projector is placed in the same location at the same distance for all three screen sizes, ( i believe about 15 feet) and in total darkness, which screen size will have the better black levels?


MISSISSIPPIMAN feel free to chime in. I believe you mentioned something about this earlier in this thread. Thank you.


----------



## blackphoenix

Finally getting my home theater built.

Limited space, but I've got the 8350 mounted on the ceiling and projecting to a Jamestown Projector Screen (92" Grey to be exact).


I did some searching, but not having much luck. Is there any benefit to turn the auto iris off with a grey screen?


----------



## DE Theater Room

Based on the comments on this board and others that I have PM'ed, I just purchased the 8350 and will have it installed tomorrow. It is replacing a PT ax100u (vintage 2006) so I am looking forward to the increased resolution and overall picture quality.


Thanks everyone!


----------



## DE Theater Room




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22743056
> 
> 
> Is it hooked up HDMI? If it is component it will only be 720p.



Not true, according to the users guide, the component connection can go to 1080.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blackphoenix*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22750673
> 
> 
> Is there any benefit to turn the auto iris off with a grey screen?



I have a 92" greywolf and have the autoiris off. I notice no difference on my screen at all. May have to do a more robust set of tests to really decide if it is worth it. My blacks are pretty damn black with it off.


----------



## Lands

Just thought I'd give some quick feedback on the projector on the off chance it might help anyone.


I was in the same boat as many a few weeks ago - trying to decide between the 8350 and a few other options. I had narrowed it down to this and the AR100U, because I was worried about brightness.


My thoughts so far:


- LOVE this projector


- It does fine with ambient light, and even with a few windows open. Based on the fact that the picture quality is supposed to be better than the AR100U (black, etc...), I'm very glad I didn't sacrifice. For me, the night time movie viewing is the most important and where I want the projector to be at it's best. The daytime stuff is nice, and the 8350 is fine in this regard (especially for sports which is a bright picture to begin with).


- It's quiet, which was a big concern of mine. It literally sits a few feet behind me, and I don't notice it.


- The sharpness and quality of the picture continues to impress.


- The zoom and lens shift are a HUGE plus. Would hate not to have these


- I often view 130+ inch screen, and it looks good


- The blacks often aren't "velvet black", but still very good considering. And I'm only projecting on an off-white wall.

*BIGGEST LESSON:* Screenshots on AVS don't mean all that much . I say that only because I looked at a million of them before buying, and I know others do too. They can help somewhat if you take them with a grain of salt, but I can tell you that moving my camera up or down and inch dramatically changes how the picture looks (contrast, color, etc...). And because of the nature of a moving image, a pause screenshot picture will look sharper than watching it live (I say this because it lead to a little bit of a let down with first watching the projector until I realized the reason).


Another reason I mentioned the screenshot issue is that I almost didn't get the 8350 because some of the screenshots I viewed in the "screenshot wars" thread didn't look as good as a few of the other models. I laugh at that now.



I think for now I'm going to go without a screen because i really like the option of adjusting depending on the content (sports vs movies vs aspect ratios vs ...)


In the end I think it was the perfect mix of picture quality, brightness, bulb life, support (so I'm told), and flexibility.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22746592
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I am a projector newbie.
> 
> I am considering purchasing this projector.
> 
> One of the complaints of people who have this projector is that it does not transmit very black blacks.
> 
> My question is the following:
> 
> Will the blacks that this projector is able to transmit get better and increase ( or if not increased be perceived by the human eye as being more black) as the size of the screen gets smaller?
> 
> I am considering 3 different screen sizes: 120 inches, 106 inches, and 100 inches.
> 
> Assuming that the projector is placed in the same location at the same distance for all three screen sizes, ( i believe about 15 feet) and in total darkness, which screen size will have the better black levels?
> 
> MISSISSIPPIMAN feel free to chime in. I believe you mentioned something about this earlier in this thread. Thank you.



I wondered about this, and indeed the blacks do get a little better as you make the picture smaller, but then again the quality of the entire image gets a little better is you make the image smaller. However - my experiments were going from 130+ to maybe 70-90ish, so might not be applicable to your question. *I don't think black levels will be different enough to justify deciding on any of your possible sizes.* You probably won't be able to notice a difference.


What I would *STRONGLY* suggest is you get the projector first, play with the sizes on a blank wall, and then decide on your screen size.


----------



## sschantz

SO I cut the cord a few months back but am able to still get the basic HD channels via coax cable. The million dollar question, I have an Epson 8350 and Onkyo 609. I am thinking about buying a Used Tivo on Ebay to use as a tuner without the subscription. Anyone try this or other suggestions for a low cost HD tuner??


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130851
> 
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.
> 
> Step 1
> 
> Take out the 2 screws circled in red, then flip the projector upside down.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/aZcEHh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 2
> 
> Remove the next twelve screws circled in red.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/IXD8eh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 3
> 
> Gently remove the side as shown in the picture. Once you are this far, you need to sort of push it down to disengage the top clips. This is by far the most annoying part of the whole process, be really careful here and do not force anything too much. You can also try flipping the projector right side up to try and wedge this off that way (it might actually be a little easier like this)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/J87z2h.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> You can see the top clips here, and also the ribbon cable connecting to the 'Menu' panel.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/oGTKKh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 4
> 
> With the projector right side up, gently lift off the top casing. This comes off really easily, just be careful of the ribbon cable that is connected.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/RsdDih.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 5
> 
> Locate the three ribbons that have the words RED, GREEN and BLUE on them.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k8wMBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> They look like this:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hjBgBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 6
> 
> Spray compressed air as shown in the pictures. (Do all three ribbons just for good measure) I used up a 250ml can while doing this. Try and keep the can as vertical as possible in order to avoid any liquid/moisture coming out of the can. Give it a couple of test sprays before putting it near your projector. You could also get someone to hold the projector on its side while spraying in order to keep the can as upright as possible .
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qdtxzh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Rx5WSh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> Step 7
> 
> Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.
> 
> Good luck!!



Thank you xccxxx, just performed the dust removal per your instructions and everything went beautifully. I had 3 dust blobs, but after the cleaning, I have zero. Can't believe it was so easy. My projector only has 240 hrs. Admittedly I had not even cleaned the filter but I did not want to disturb the projector and create more dust, however, the dust blobs appeared anyway. Obviously, the projector is not sealed were it needs to be. Anyway, a little compressed air did the trick.


The only thing I did different was I disconnected the flex ribbon cables. Easy to do, just lift up on the sliding part of the connector on the PCB.


I'm happy that my projector is like new again and I did not need to call Epson for a refurbished replacement!


----------



## rweir91

I purchased an 8350 in late 2010 and have been enjoying it with no issues -- until today. After about 10 minutes of run-time, the temperature light came on and the bulb went out. I clean the filters every 2 weeks. In fact, I am still on the original bulb (changed the filter a few times).


After unplugging it for about 10 minutes, I turned it back on. The fans begin to spin up but now both the temperature and lamp lights are on solid. I called Epson but they don't have anyone available to assist until Monday morning.


Any ideas as to what these lights indicate? The manual simply says internal problem, call Epson support.


Thanks!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22755116
> 
> 
> SO I cut the cord a few months back but am able to still get the basic HD channels via coax cable. The million dollar question, I have an Epson 8350 and Onkyo 609. I am thinking about buying a Used Tivo on Ebay to use as a tuner without the subscription. Anyone try this or other suggestions for a low cost HD tuner??


If you are going to pay for analog cable, might as well pay the extra $10 and get your cable co's real box and do Digital Cable.

 

Or, really "cut the cord" ... no cable subscription at all. Use ATSC antenna and one of these external tuners:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/179095/the-official-avs-hdtv-stb-synopsis


----------



## rathomasjr

I recently purchased a refurbished 8350 from Epson for $899. I just did some quick preliminary testing tonight and so far I am very happy with the projector. So far so good. I hooked it up through component cables to a blue ray player and watched some Avatar. Tested the zoom and lens shift and a variety of other functions.


Based on the quality of the packaging and everything that I received, I would never know it was refurbished vs. new.


----------



## Duke Broadway

I was hoping someone might have an answer to what I noticed tonight as I used my WOW disc to do some basic calibration on my 8350. When I was calibrating the contrast the screen should be essentially white. I have a pinkish hue that ranges from midline to bottom left and a blue/green tint from midline to upper right. Does anyone have a cause and solution?


Thanks,


Jason


----------



## lpetrov

I have taken the 8350 plunge. Bought new from VA(didn't want to risk refurb roulette). Should be here Friday. After reading the forum for a while now the tough decision was made. I was looking at the 5020 but i'm not ready to switch out my receiver(RX-V663) just yet nor did i want to do wireless HD. Oh, and the gaming lag issues that may be there. I have had a HC6100 for about 4 years with over 6000 hours on 4 bulbs. Not the best but I never experienced any issues. It has served me well and just started developing a yellow tint to the picture. I assume some form of degradation. Hopefully the 8350 will serve me as well as the 6100 it will be replacing. If not, you'll probably see more posts from me.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22764008
> 
> 
> I was hoping someone might have an answer to what I noticed tonight as I used my WOW disc to do some basic calibration on my 8350. When I was calibrating the contrast the screen should be essentially white. I have a pinkish hue that ranges from midline to bottom left and a blue/green tint from midline to upper right. Does anyone have a cause and solution?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jason



It's just a color uniformity issue. Not uncommon for LCD projectors but a little unusual for a new projector. The usual suspects are bad convergence or the polarizer/filters. If it is not noticeable during regular use you can learn to live with it or contact Epson about a solution.


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22768598
> 
> 
> It's just a color uniformity issue. Not uncommon for LCD projectors but a little unusual for a new projector. The usual suspects are bad convergence or the polarizer/filters. If it is not noticeable during regular use you can learn to live with it or contact Epson about a solution.



Its not a new pj. I purchased it used but still under epson and bb warranty. Its not horrible under normal viewing but I do ntice it. Guess I will give epson a ring tomorrow. Thanks


----------



## WannaKnowTech

Ok so this is odd. I just got the projector today. I went to plug the HDMI cable into the HDMI port 1 and then I hear an awful noise, sparks fly and the end of the HDMI cable is black and melted. What would even cause that? I call them for a replacement and they tell me they are out of stock and it might be 4 to 6 weeks before more are in. I heard this company was so awesome, so far im unimpressed.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

Even better I just checked the receiver and the output is blackened now and doesn't work. I worry the cable box and ps3 may be screwed as well.


----------



## Peterose2002

Have my projector for 54 weeks. Bulb just popped. Haven't paid any attention to to lamp hours recently so I'm not sure where I was at. Love the projector but spending over $250/ year for a build is a little costly.


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Peterose2002*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22775614
> 
> 
> Have my projector for 54 weeks. Bulb just popped. Haven't paid any attention to to lamp hours recently so I'm not sure where I was at. Love the projector but spending over $250/ year for a build is a little costly.




call epson


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22774742
> 
> 
> Ok so this is odd. I just got the projector today. I went to plug the HDMI cable into the HDMI port 1 and then I hear an awful noise, sparks fly and the end of the HDMI cable is black and melted. What would even cause that? I call them for a replacement and they tell me they are out of stock and it might be 4 to 6 weeks before more are in. I heard this company was so awesome, so far im unimpressed.



Hot plugging? That was my first impression when I read your story. This means having the receiver and/or projector powered on when connecting the HDMI cable.


Here's a quote from a different thread.


> Quote:
> It's not recommended because you can cause electrical damage to your equipment. That 5V DC can do a bit of damage sometimes.
> 
> 
> I was hotplugging some HDMI devices on my AV receiver and the HDMI board ended up getting fried which apparently is due to the poor design (of HDMI cables in general) of the pin arrangement in the male connector.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22776819
> 
> 
> Hot plugging? That was my first impression when I read your story. This means having the receiver and/or projector powered on when connecting the HDMI cable.
> 
> Here's a quote from a different thread.


Well the receiever was off.....but the projector was on. So yeah I guess that explains it. Regardless the projector is going back to Epson because the image it projects is oddly lopsided and I am not taking any chances. The reciever still has 4 months left on an extended warranty I bought for it so that is safe. I haven't tested the cable box and PS3 yet. The cable box of course can be replaced by Directv but the PS3....ugh.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Not a good idea domingo


----------



## Mr.G





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22778113
> 
> 
> Well the receiever was off.....but the projector was on. So yeah I guess that explains it. Regardless the projector is going back to Epson because the image it projects is oddly lopsided and I am not taking any chances. The reciever still has 4 months left on an extended warranty I bought for it so that is safe. I haven't tested the cable box and PS3 yet. The cable box of course can be replaced by Directv but the PS3....ugh.



Sorry to hear. I would definitely not use that same brand of HDMI cable again.


----------



## Itsdon

I've had my 8350 for 13 months or so and recently I'm finding the focus moves ever so _slightly_, often. I never used to even touch the PJ since it is ceiling mounted but now pretty much every time I use it I need to adjust the focus. Is this normal on a machine with just 900 hours on it? It's not a huge inconvenience but it's different than what it used to be so something changed and that's concerning.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22781954
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear. I would definitely not use that same brand of HDMI cable again.


Yeah it was Belkin...I have one from Monoprice now. Anyway im sending the projector back tomorrow and I should be receiving one back soon. Like I said the receiver and the cable box are no problem to replace but the PS3 is officially dead. Looks like I have to use this opportunity to purchase a region free player.


----------



## Peterose2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *domingos38*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7650#post_22775690
> 
> 
> call epson



Called epson. They are replacing for free.


----------



## thor2257

Hello I am a proud new owner of a 8350 and pretty impressed. Out of the box it was bright (almost too) and vibrant. I ran the test pattern it comes with and I think it is off a pixel with blue. I will be uploading some pics to see if you guys agree and recommendations for what I should do. But so far I think this projector is a good choice.


----------



## thor2257

  


Sorry for quality iPhone is good but not that good lol


----------



## RTROSE

If I stare at my pattern I see all the imperfections. Where I would be concerned is if the imperfections you see in the pattern effect the actual projected image. If the projected image looks good during a movie and nothing stands out then IMHO you are good to go. My. 02 worth.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thor2257*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22785833
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for quality iPhone is good but not that good lol



Might be the Chroma Apparitions from the lens shift.


Here is what mine looks like on another pattern near the edge http://i5.minus.com/iK1qzPe591h0M.JPG 


It is normal for projectors of this type.


----------



## jnabq

100%, deadon, perfect convergence is pretty hard to get from lcd's in general. If it's off by less than a pixel, it's considered good.


----------



## pdisme

I have kind of an unusual situation but hoping someone can give me some pointers as to whether the 8350 would be appropriate. I had been playing Call of Duty on Xbox 360 in my theater but switched to my living room once I thought about how many hours I'm putting on the bulb of my projector, whose bulbs are very expensive to replace and don't last all that long. Moving my playing to the living room got my wife interested in the game, and now she wants to play whenever I play. I hate playing split screen mode, but don't want to not play with her since I can play more if she is playing with me







.


Anyway, this got me thinking an ideal solution would be two affordable projectors and an extra xbox so we can both play in 'full screen' mode in the theater. The 8350 caught my attention for several reasons; the positive reviews, the lens shift (since we'd probably keep the projectors and xboxes on a portable cart, i.e. projecting upwards), not being short throw and the inexpensive replacement bulbs.


So my questions/concerns:
My theater screen is 120" horizontal. If we want to play two 'full screen' games side by side, this means at most, I need a projector that can project a 60" horizontal image. This rules out short throw projectors since even at 5 feet they will typically be 100+ inches projected. Would the 8350 work well at whatever distance it needs to be to get the image that small?
Expanding on the above, brightness becomes a concern when the projector is being used for such a small image. My theater is completely black walls and ceiling, dark grey floor, zero ambient light. Could the 8350 brightness be turned down enough to not be overly bright projecting a small image in a dark room?
Anyone using it for FPS gaming have thoughts on it for that purpose?
I'm also looking at the Acer H9500BD since it's similar in price but adds 3D support, which doesn't matter for me right now, but perhaps will in the future if new games come out that we really want to play that have 3D. If you have experience with both, or general input, would love to hear it.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdisme*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22794957
> 
> 
> I have kind of an unusual situation but hoping someone can give me some pointers as to whether the 8350 would be appropriate. I had been playing Call of Duty on Xbox 360 in my theater but switched to my living room once I thought about how many hours I'm putting on the bulb of my projector, whose bulbs are very expensive to replace and don't last all that long. Moving my playing to the living room got my wife interested in the game, and now she wants to play whenever I play. I hate playing split screen mode, but don't want to not play with her since I can play more if she is playing with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyway, this got me thinking an ideal solution would be two affordable projectors and an extra xbox so we can both play in 'full screen' mode in the theater. The 8350 caught my attention for several reasons; the positive reviews, the lens shift (since we'd probably keep the projectors and xboxes on a portable cart, i.e. projecting upwards), not being short throw and the inexpensive replacement bulbs.
> 
> So my questions/concerns:
> My theater screen is 120" horizontal. If we want to play two 'full screen' games side by side, this means at most, I need a projector that can project a 60" horizontal image. This rules out short throw projectors since even at 5 feet they will typically be 100+ inches projected. Would the 8350 work well at whatever distance it needs to be to get the image that small?
> Expanding on the above, brightness becomes a concern when the projector is being used for such a small image. My theater is completely black walls and ceiling, dark grey floor, zero ambient light. Could the 8350 brightness be turned down enough to not be overly bright projecting a small image in a dark room?
> Anyone using it for FPS gaming have thoughts on it for that purpose?
> I'm also looking at the Acer H9500BD since it's similar in price but adds 3D support, which doesn't matter for me right now, but perhaps will in the future if new games come out that we really want to play that have 3D. If you have experience with both, or general input, would love to hear it.



I am not sure about the throw distance for 2 side by side 8350's but I I'd know that you have the coolest wife on the planet. My wife has no interest in and Xbox game and she looks at me funny because I love COD. Anyway good luck and let us know if it worked.


----------



## pdisme




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dolphinc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22797214
> 
> 
> I am not sure about the throw distance for 2 side by side 8350's but I I'd know that you have the coolest wife on the planet. My wife has no interest in and Xbox game and she looks at me funny because I love COD. Anyway good luck and let us know if it worked.



I decided to just pull the trigger on the 8350 so I have a pair of them on the way tomorrow. I simply don't care about 3D enough at this point in time to get a projector that might do 3D well when I actually want to use it, or maybe it won't and I'd feel stupid later future proofing for something that is still rapidly evolving. I think the 8350's 2D low lag performance and adjustability will be great for FPS games since they will be 100% dedicated to that task.


I'll post up a review and some pics in the coming weeks once we've broken them in. It will be nice to go back to shooting people full screen LOL; my head shots have really suffered since she started playing with me.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdisme*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22797351
> 
> 
> I decided to just pull the trigger on the 8350 so I have a pair of them on the way tomorrow. I simply don't care about 3D enough at this point in time to get a projector that might do 3D well when I actually want to use it, or maybe it won't and I'd feel stupid later future proofing for something that is still rapidly evolving. I think the 8350's 2D low lag performance and adjustability will be great for FPS games since they will be 100% dedicated to that task.
> 
> I'll post up a review and some pics in the coming weeks once we've broken them in. It will be nice to go back to shooting people full screen LOL; my head shots have really suffered since she started playing with me.



The 2.1X zoom is pretty good. You are probably going to have to do a bit of experimentation on positioning. You are going to want one of the projectors as close as it can get when all the way zoomed out filling your screen completely for movies and then you can zoom it in and shrink the projection down as small as you can.. This will be the size projection you will have twice if you wish to be fair. If it turns out to be too big to fit two on the screen you may need to overlap a bit or sacrifice and never have either projector fill the screen.


----------



## BlackoutsBox

Hey All,


Blackout here. Have't checked in for a while but I bit am in the unique situation of having both the Epson 8350 and the 3020.


First off, I have used the Epson 8350 for a year now as a pro rental projector and it has always stunned people and it has a way better lens than the 3020. I LIKE that it is a huge monster box. The 3020 looks like a toy in comparison and has no lens controls or shift - just crappy digital keystone correction.


It's my opinion that 2d blu-rays look way better on the 8350. The colors are more accurate and the whites are not as hot.


That being said - the few good 3D titles on the 3020 are mind blowing. I was especially floored by the IMAX Under the Sea. It was so incredible it looked like real film because the 3D overlap just completely eliminates any pixels even if you are close. On 2D movies you can use this feature called super res to have a similar effect but 2D movies look a little too video-y too me if you know what I mean. This leaves me with the difficult decision of to keep it or not as really there are only a handful off 3D movies and I popped close to 2 grand buying a 3D graphics card, 3D stand alone blue ray player and the projector and a few movies. Truly awesome show stopper but is it worth it for a handful of titles? Not sure yet and I have 28 more days to make up my mind and return it if I don't think so.


I have the EVO V 4G which is a slighty beefed up Evo 3D and I'll tell you the projector even played the movies from that and they were fairly good! only 720p but couldn't believe a phone could do such good quality 3D...


To keep or return.... and if I keep d I sell the 8350.... oh decisions decisions...


The one thing I really like about this projector is that unlike all the flat screens - which seem to only go in - this thing really POPPED out like 10 feet from the screen.. it looked like a big old fish was swimming across my coffee table and guests will freak out. I never saw any good 3D on screen tvs.


- Blackout


----------



## fcastle

So I finally finished building my 108" gray over white Spandex screen and watched Casino Royale on my 8350. It is a refurb I just purchased from Epson and this is the first time I have sat down to watch a full movie on a screen.


I am running a Panasonic BDT220 to an Onkyo NR809 to the projector all via HDMI (it is running into HDMI 1 on the back of the projector). My wife first noticed it but we are getting intermittent flashes on the screen. Sometimes it is as bad as a full screen flash of white but mostly it is a half screen or so flash. The Onkyo has two HDMI outs: primary and seconary. The manual was a little unclear but it appears they are the same except for the fact that the Onkyo menus and the Net setting do not output over the secondary.


I initially had it plugged into the secondary (the primary is plugged into a TV) and the flashes increased to almost one every 10-15 seconds. I swapped the primary and secondary outputs and although the flashes became almost non-existent, I would say there were about three more over the last hour of the movie. Before switching the outputs and after, I did make sure all HDMI cables were reseated and secure.


Is there anything I could check on either the DVD player, Onkyo, or projector where I may have a setting set wrong? Although I have watched some regular television through a DISH DVR, I have not noticed the flashes. I have also not yet tried my PS3. All of my items are run through the Onkyo via HDMI. I also have yet to try hooking the HDMI directly to the DVD player.


A final note. I needed a long HDMI run (35') so I purchaed an HDMI cord from Overstock. It was not expensive ($11), although it stated it was 1.3 compliant, I am wondering if the cheap cord is part of the problem, although that would not explain the difference in number of flashes when I switched the output.


I apoligize that I have not tried very much yet, but this was quite upsetting after all the research and work I did to get this all set up (and approved by the wife). Any quick thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I did some searches and the main thing people said to check was that the HDMI cables were seated.


I also emailed Epson.


Outside of all that, Casino Royale looked sweet on the gray spandex in living room mode!


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fcastle*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22804554
> 
> 
> So I finally finished building my 108" gray over white Spandex screen and watched Casino Royale on my 8350. It is a refurb I just purchased from Epson and this is the first time I have sat down to watch a full movie on a screen.
> 
> I am running a Panasonic BDT220 to an Onkyo NR809 to the projector all via HDMI (it is running into HDMI 1 on the back of the projector). My wife first noticed it but we are getting intermittent flashes on the screen. Sometimes it is as bad as a full screen flash of white but mostly it is a half screen or so flash. The Onkyo has two HDMI outs: primary and seconary. The manual was a little unclear but it appears they are the same except for the fact that the Onkyo menus and the Net setting do not output over the secondary.
> 
> I initially had it plugged into the secondary (the primary is plugged into a TV) and the flashes increased to almost one every 10-15 seconds. I swapped the primary and secondary outputs and although the flashes became almost non-existent, I would say there were about three more over the last hour of the movie. Before switching the outputs and after, I did make sure all HDMI cables were reseated and secure.
> 
> Is there anything I could check on either the DVD player, Onkyo, or projector where I may have a setting set wrong? Although I have watched some regular television through a DISH DVR, I have not noticed the flashes. I have also not yet tried my PS3. All of my items are run through the Onkyo via HDMI. I also have yet to try hooking the HDMI directly to the DVD player.
> 
> A final note. I needed a long HDMI run (35') so I purchaed an HDMI cord from Overstock. It was not expensive ($11), although it stated it was 1.3 compliant, I am wondering if the cheap cord is part of the problem, although that would not explain the difference in number of flashes when I switched the output.
> 
> I apoligize that I have not tried very much yet, but this was quite upsetting after all the research and work I did to get this all set up (and approved by the wife). Any quick thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I did some searches and the main thing people said to check was that the HDMI cables were seated.
> 
> I also emailed Epson.
> 
> Outside of all that, Casino Royale looked sweet on the gray spandex in living room mode!



Most likely the problem is the Panasonic 220 Blu-ray player. I helped install my niece's home theater and they are experiencing the same problem but with the Panasonic AR100U projector and a 25 foot Monoprice HDMI cable. They are planning to purchase the Sony BDP-BX59 (same as the BDP-S590) at Costco which has it on sale for $79.99 to make sure the problem lies with their player.


----------



## RTROSE

I would say if you could try the PS3 and see what happens to the signal. Sometimes the HDMI cables can be quirky. I have had some issues with HDMI from "sparklies", signal loss, and flat out not working right out of the box. I would bet is a cable issue vs. a player issue. Also Onkyo is known to have HDMI board issues as well, but if you don't experience it on another display the HDMI board is probably not the issue. I would try swapping out cables first or if it is easier try the PS3 and see if the issue persists.


Good luck,


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fcastle*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22804554
> 
> 
> I needed a long HDMI run (35') so I purchaed an HDMI cord from Overstock. It was not expensive ($11), although it stated it was 1.3 compliant, I am wondering if the cheap cord is part of the problem, although that would not explain the difference in number of flashes when I switched the output.


Sounds thin and cheap. A cable that long needs to be heavy gauge. I use: 45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable from MonoPrice

 

You have enough gear to test. Connecting BluRay directly to 8350 (bypass amp) with that cable ... might prove some gear is good. Simplify system and keep testing components and finding ones that test good or where problem follows.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fcastle*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22804554
> 
> 
> So I finally finished building my 108" gray over white Spandex screen and watched Casino Royale on my 8350. It is a refurb I just purchased from Epson and this is the first time I have sat down to watch a full movie on a screen.
> 
> I am running a Panasonic BDT220 to an Onkyo NR809 to the projector all via HDMI (it is running into HDMI 1 on the back of the projector). My wife first noticed it but we are getting intermittent flashes on the screen. Sometimes it is as bad as a full screen flash of white but mostly it is a half screen or so flash. The Onkyo has two HDMI outs: primary and seconary. The manual was a little unclear but it appears they are the same except for the fact that the Onkyo menus and the Net setting do not output over the secondary.
> 
> I initially had it plugged into the secondary (the primary is plugged into a TV) and the flashes increased to almost one every 10-15 seconds. I swapped the primary and secondary outputs and although the flashes became almost non-existent, I would say there were about three more over the last hour of the movie. Before switching the outputs and after, I did make sure all HDMI cables were reseated and secure.
> 
> Is there anything I could check on either the DVD player, Onkyo, or projector where I may have a setting set wrong? Although I have watched some regular television through a DISH DVR, I have not noticed the flashes. I have also not yet tried my PS3. All of my items are run through the Onkyo via HDMI. I also have yet to try hooking the HDMI directly to the DVD player.
> 
> A final note. I needed a long HDMI run (35') so I purchaed an HDMI cord from Overstock. It was not expensive ($11), although it stated it was 1.3 compliant, I am wondering if the cheap cord is part of the problem, although that would not explain the difference in number of flashes when I switched the output.
> 
> I apoligize that I have not tried very much yet, but this was quite upsetting after all the research and work I did to get this all set up (and approved by the wife). Any quick thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I did some searches and the main thing people said to check was that the HDMI cables were seated.
> 
> I also emailed Epson.
> 
> Outside of all that, Casino Royale looked sweet on the gray spandex in living room mode!



Try turning off "deep color" on the Panasonic.


----------



## daveinmaryland

ANY ONE, everyone, turned the projector on last night, and no light. Lamp light blinking. Need a new bulb. I did some searching, and I don't need a knock off bulb. Can someone either tell me here in the forum, or PM me and let me know where I can get a OEM replacement bulb with quick service.


Epson said free over night shipping for $299.99, however, I think that I can get it for less than $250.00.


I appreciate it.


BTW, projector is 26 months old.


----------



## Nme123

Hi Guys, just wondering has anyone else tried xccxxx's fix for the dreaded green blob issue.

I've developed a whopper of a blob bang in the middle of the screen and am currently on my 5th TW-3200 (only 105 hrs on the lamp) and don't really want to go down the road of getting another replacement.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Nme123

Hi Guys, just wondering has anyone else tried xccxxx's fix for the dreaded green blob issue.

I've developed a whopper of a blob bang in the middle of the screen and am currently on my 5th TW-3200 (only 105 hrs on the lamp) and don't really want to go down the road of getting another replacement.

Thanks in advance


----------



## enderland

I am thinking about getting this.


If I understand this correct:


> Quote:
> Vertical: 96.3% max (up and down)



I should have no problems in getting the image vertically aligned on my screen, right?


My projector will be ceiling mounted and the top of the screen will be at the same level (or higher unfortunately...) than the lens. I suspect the high lens shift percentage will let me move the image up well more than enough to put it onto my screen right?


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enderland*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7600_100#post_22811914
> 
> 
> I am thinking about getting this.
> 
> 
> If I understand this correct:
> 
> I should have no problems in getting the image vertically aligned on my screen, right?
> 
> 
> My projector will be ceiling mounted and the top of the screen will be at the same level (or higher unfortunately...) than the lens. I suspect the high lens shift percentage will let me move the image up well more than enough to put it onto my screen right?



If your situation is as you describe you will have no issues getting your image on your screen.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## winger67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enderland*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22811914
> 
> 
> My projector will be ceiling mounted and the top of the screen will be at the same level (or higher unfortunately...) than the lens. I suspect the high lens shift percentage will let me move the image up well more than enough to put it onto my screen right?




New owner here. I had a similar situation trying to figure out if need to drop down further from the ceiling or not. If you're level with the top of screen you will have no problems at all. My ceiling is 19" above the top of a 93" screen from 10' and happy to report the lens shift still has room to spare. Using a Peerless mount so the lense is probably 8-9" down from the ceiling.


Still have yet to adjust anything but the night I set it up I ran out and rented Looper I was so excited. Came from a Sony VPL-HS20 and wondered why I waited so long. Watched the movie powered up in normal vs eco mode and thought it was still quieter than my old projector. When I found out it wasn't in Eco mode I was amazed at how silent it is. Was debating between this and the Panasonic but since my screen is only 93' I went for better blacks over light output. So far I'm pretty happy.


Screen suggestions? Currently using a 1.3 gain screen. Room is mixed use. Movies wll mostly at night with shades drawn but still would like to use it during the day with windows away from the screen open. Think I should drop down to a 1.0 gain?


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daveinmaryland*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22810528
> 
> 
> ANY ONE, everyone, turned the projector on last night, and no light. Lamp light blinking. Need a new bulb. I did some searching, and I don't need a knock off bulb. Can someone either tell me here in the forum, or PM me and let me know where I can get a OEM replacement bulb with quick service.
> 
> 
> Epson said free over night shipping for $299.99, however, I think that I can get it for less than $250.00.
> 
> 
> I appreciate it.
> 
> 
> BTW, projector is 26 months old.


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-lamp-suppliers.htm 
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=735442&Q=&is=REG&A=details $234, I've used them before, but not sure how quick the turnaround would be.


----------



## Black Cat

I'm considering the 8350 but am a bit worried about brightness..


My projector sits 22 feet from a 120 inch wide screen. The projector central calculator says not enough brightness. I have a DaLite screen, I think 1.0 gain. Room can be light controlled but sometimes used with minimal light for sporting events and company. There doesn't seem to be too many projectors that can deal with the 22 ft. throw distance. I like the 3020 but it doesn't have lens shift that I would need.


----------



## norymeoreason41

Love this thing!!!!


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *winger67*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22812781
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New owner here. I had a similar situation trying to figure out if need to drop down further from the ceiling or not. If you're level with the top of screen you will have no problems at all. My ceiling is 19" above the top of a 93" screen from 10' and happy to report the lens shift still has room to spare. Using a Peerless mount so the lense is probably 8-9" down from the ceiling.
> 
> 
> Still have yet to adjust anything but the night I set it up I ran out and rented Looper I was so excited. Came from a Sony VPL-HS20 and wondered why I waited so long. Watched the movie powered up in normal vs eco mode and thought it was still quieter than my old projector. When I found out it wasn't in Eco mode I was amazed at how silent it is. Was debating between this and the Panasonic but since my screen is only 93' I went for better blacks over light output. So far I'm pretty happy.
> 
> 
> Screen suggestions? Currently using a 1.3 gain screen. Room is mixed use. Movies wll mostly at night with shades drawn but still would like to use it during the day with windows away from the screen open. Think I should drop down to a 1.0 gain?



Yep, upgrading from the 768p hs20 sony is nice, I did the same a few months back. I think you should keep the current screen, as that little extra brightness will help as the lamp starts to dim. Using a 1.3 myself.


----------



## kehakas

My first bulb failure:

Bought in June 2012

890 hours on bulb

Got dim for about a week and finally died (didn't hear a pop)

Epson is sending a replacement for free


This projector is my first, and it's incredible. It's on a 90" blackout cloth screen. I have three small green dust blobs but it's nothing I notice unless the screen is pure black, and even then, hardly.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *norymeoreason41*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7700_100#post_22813425
> 
> 
> Love this thing!!!!



Wow.. What screen do you have and what camera/settings did you use to take that. It looks incredible!



For the sake of OCD I thought I would share my setting even though my PC's Gamma is adjusted for my CRT and therefore shares with my projector. My ATi Color Gamma correction is 1.10 red, 1.05 green, 1.0 blue and because of that slight twist my projector is set up like this...

 

 


There is also a slight bump in the gamma adjustment graph but I forgot to take a photo.This may seem way off but even when using my Cablevision HD box as a source these settings just work better than any of the default color schemes. Also sharpness I have at all 0's.


----------



## norymeoreason41




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22814997
> 
> 
> Wow.. What screen do you have and what camera/settings did you use to take that. It looks incredible!




Believe it or not, that's on a cheap Vapex 106 screen. My camera is: Canon 60D, lens is 17-55 EF-S f/2.8 IS. Settings were Av mode, ISO 100, F/4, Exp. 1/3. I didn't tweak anything out of camera - so actually sharpness and color are even a bit better in real life.


This projector really is incredible given the right conditions.


----------



## PappaSmurf

My projector is about the same age as yours and the bulb is acting as if it is going pop and go out... What did they ask you and what did you say when you called them? Do you have to send the dead bulb back and wait on the new to follow? Thanks...


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *norymeoreason41*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7700_100#post_22815120
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, that's on a cheap Vapex 106 screen. My camera is: Canon 60D, lens is 17-55 EF-S f/2.8 IS. Settings were Av mode, ISO 100, F/4, Exp. 1/3. I didn't tweak anything out of camera - so actually sharpness and color are even a bit better in real life.
> 
> 
> This projector really is incredible given the right conditions.



The Screen has far less to do with that shot vs the camera.. I will borrow my fathers Cannon DSLR and shoot a few with those settings. He has a few lenses I will try to find one similar.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nme123*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22811808
> 
> 
> Hi Guys, just wondering has anyone else tried xccxxx's fix for the dreaded green blob issue.
> 
> I've developed a whopper of a blob bang in the middle of the screen and am currently on my 5th TW-3200 (only 105 hrs on the lamp) and don't really want to go down the road of getting another replacement.
> 
> Thanks in advance



Yep, worked great. It was easy, just follow his instructions, I also posted a few weeks back with some additional comments. If my projector develops dust blobs again I know what to do now. I don't know if the dust was in the projector from the factory or accumulated after running (I have less than 300 hrs so far). If from the factory then I would not expect to have any further issues.


----------



## aijuswannasing

Hello!



I originally bought an Epson 8345, but returned it after I got several auto-iris errors. Kudos to Epson, however, for their excellent customer service - they were going to overnight me a replacement but I was still under my store return period. I loved the picture but at 12' away on a 106" budget screen, I found the black level lackluster in a light-controlled room with dark walls, even with adjustments.


I ended up picking up an 8350 instead and have to say the little bump in specs makes a huge difference in the blacks. I had them both running for an evening, and found that i had to place the 8345 about 7 feet further away to get close to the 8350 black levels at 12',



now... my "problem"...



I noticed there is a gradual darkening from left to right of my screen image on a full black screen. ie: the left side is slightly brighter than the right. You don't really notice on full 16:9, but when watching letterbox it's very noticeable to me with the black bars. Has anyone else experienced this? I also noticed a small darker "blotch" in the lower left quadrant of the screen, that remains if I zoom the lens in or out, leading me to believe it's something on/in the lens or the internal LCD. It's not very noticeable, but I know it's there. Should I be concerned?


----------



## PappaSmurf

Anyone?


----------



## domingos38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurf*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7680#post_22815562
> 
> 
> My projector is about the same age as yours and the bulb is acting as if it is going pop and go out... What did they ask you and what did you say when you called them? Do you have to send the dead bulb back and wait on the new to follow? Thanks...



how many hours?



just call them and tell your your bulb is getting dim

they will send u another .

they don't want your old bulb


----------



## PappaSmurf

OK has only 480 hrs but I have had it for a year now... thanks...


----------



## WannaKnowTech

I swear im about to throw this damn thing through the wall. So I get my second unit and good news, this one doesn't destroy my entire home theater. However when I project an image on the screen it's crooked. Im pretty sure my shelf is level so I play with the little feet on the bottom and make it level. Now the the image.......pulls one way. It's hard to describe but one side is pushed in at the top and the and the other hangs. Whats causing this? I call Epson but of course they are worthless. I have tried turning this piece of crap every which way but nothing helps. Im seriously thinking about sending it back and forgetting projectors altogether.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22831259
> 
> 
> I swear im about to throw this damn thing through the wall. So I get my second unit and good news, this one doesn't destroy my entire home theater. However when I project an image on the screen it's crooked. Im pretty sure my shelf is level so I play with the little feet on the bottom and make it level. Now the the image.......pulls one way. It's hard to describe but one side is pushed in at the top and the and the other hangs. Whats causing this? I call Epson but of course they are worthless. I have tried turning this piece of crap every which way but nothing helps. Im seriously thinking about sending it back and forgetting projectors altogether.



Projector is not square to the screen.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/projectors/1072933-image-crooked-two-sides-help.html


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22831259
> 
> 
> I swear im about to throw this damn thing through the wall. So I get my second unit and good news, this one doesn't destroy my entire home theater. However when I project an image on the screen it's crooked. Im pretty sure my shelf is level so I play with the little feet on the bottom and make it level. Now the the image.......pulls one way. It's hard to describe but one side is pushed in at the top and the and the other hangs. Whats causing this? I call Epson but of course they are worthless. I have tried turning this piece of crap every which way but nothing helps. Im seriously thinking about sending it back and forgetting projectors altogether.



As previously stated directly above, the the projector is not squared or plum to the screen.. You should check your shelf with a bubble level to see if it is level both side to side and front to back. From your description that it appears that it is tilted slightly upward


Problems such as yours are almost always installation related. Try not to let frustrate shin get the better of you.. It can be quite a job repairing a projector sized hole in drywall, and somehow I don't think up something would allow a return if the projector shows such obvious Consumer misuse.


----------



## F12Bwth

If you can and are willing post a video of what the problem is. Give us a walk around the screen and where the projector is.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22835039
> 
> 
> If you can and are willing post a video of what the problem is. Give us a walk around the screen and where the projector is.



I can't I don't own a video camera sad to say. However the above suggestions will help I think. Im going to try moving it around later. Problem is I will have to move the shelf and it needs to screw into a stud. Also the way my room is shaped might make this difficult but im trying. It took me forever to get this projector and I keep running into one awful frustration after another. Im still waiting on a receiver to be fixed that the first projector ruined.


However then what is lens shift for? I was told it could be slightly or high up because that would take care of it.


----------



## Duke Broadway

Dang no camera, even on your phone?


Anyways when the projector is level you can use lens shift to move the screen horizontal and vertical a significant amount. keep on mind that the each adjustment effects the other.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

So it looks like the best place to place the projector is above the thermostat.......iwhat are the odds im going to put a screw through a wire and end up burning my house down?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22840870
> 
> 
> So it looks like the best place to place the projector is above the thermostat.......iwhat are the odds im going to put a screw through a wire and end up burning my house down?



Non-existant. Thermostat wiring is universally "low voltage". You can no more start a fire that way than you can pinning a Stereo wire.


You might freeze to death though.....


Why move the Shelf? Simply install needed "shims" under the PJ's feet to correct any tilt or yaw. If you don't know what a shim is...or do not possess a Level, call in a Pro and end all the guesswork & frustration.


----------



## winger67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22835742
> 
> 
> However then what is lens shift for? I was told it could be slightly or high up because that would take care of it.



I sure hope you're not confusing lens shift with keystone adjustments. I've owned several projectors in the past and this was by far the easiest to set up.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22831259
> 
> 
> However when I project an image on the screen it's crooked. Im pretty sure my shelf is level so I play with the little feet on the bottom and make it level. Now the the image.......pulls one way. It's hard to describe but one side is pushed in at the top and the and the other hangs.


I'm not sure that you need to remount your shelf. It sounds like you could have the left or right side of the projector slightly twisted out of position. Between tweaking that and adjusting the foot levelers you may be able to get it square without needing to move your shelf. Keep in mind that the problem may not be with the wall that your shelf is mounted to, but rather the wall that your screen is mounted on. Either way, twisting the projector slightly (i.e., bringing the one side of the projector closer to the screen by a few millimeters) and playing with the feet levelers may fix it, depending on how far off things are.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22831259
> 
> 
> Now the the image.......pulls one way. It's hard to describe but one side is pushed in at the top and the and the other hangs. Whats causing this?


 

It means the front surface of the lens is not parallel to the screen.

 

After you make it parallel (by repositioning projector) , use the lens shift thumb wheels on top to move the image back over. If you cannot move it far enough, you will have to move the projector over some more ... slide exactly left or right (keeping lens parallel to screen).


----------



## konimus09

i recently bought a 8350 and for the most part im very happy with it. the only problem that im finding is when im watching a movie with really dark scenes that may have a portion of bright light in it i get a foggy/blotchy looking image around the lighted area. i am not sure if this is just a settings problem or just that the projector is too low end to have better shadows. i have also checked and cleaned the lens and filters, so any ideas would be great!


thanks, keith


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844021
> 
> 
> i recently bought a 8350 and for the most part im very happy with it. the only problem that im finding is when im watching a movie with really dark scenes that may have a portion of bright light in it i get a foggy/blotchy looking image around the lighted area. i am not sure if this is just a settings problem or just that the projector is too low end to have better shadows. i have also checked and cleaned the lens and filters, so any ideas would be great!
> 
> 
> thanks, keith


What is the source material and input device?

 

If source material is low quality (for a screen size this large) you might be seeing poor color dithering aka "banding" ?


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844097
> 
> 
> What is the source material and input device?
> 
> 
> If source material is low quality (for a screen size this large) you might be seeing poor color dithering aka "banding" ?



My blurays r played using a ps3 and I use hdmi


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22843499
> 
> 
> I'm not sure that you need to remount your shelf. It sounds like you could have the left or right side of the projector slightly twisted out of position. Between tweaking that and adjusting the foot levelers you may be able to get it square without needing to move your shelf. Keep in mind that the problem may not be with the wall that your shelf is mounted to, but rather the wall that your screen is mounted on. Either way, twisting the projector slightly (i.e., bringing the one side of the projector closer to the screen by a few millimeters) and playing with the feet levelers may fix it, depending on how far off things are.



I tried twisting it and playing with the feet. Nothing worked until I moved it.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844106
> 
> 
> 
> My blurays r played using a ps3 and I use hdmi


So, is it banding?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Colour_banding_example01.png

 

If not, a pic might help or an example movie and time or scene might help.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844255
> 
> 
> 
> I tried twisting it and playing with the feet. Nothing worked until I moved it.


Ya, the Lens Shift is amazing (and you don't have to have the lens in the horizontal center of the screen) but there are limits to what it can do.

 

Good to hear you got it figured out.

 

However, if I was to permanently mount mine from the ceiling, I would have a hard time NOT putting the pole in the middle of the screen (guess that's why mine is still on the shelf).


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844308
> 
> 
> So, it it banding?
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Colour_banding_example01.png
> 
> 
> If not, a pic might help or an example movie and time or scene might help.



yes from that link you sent that is def what it seems to be, the first image is what i see in most really dark scenes in movies such as batman the dark knight rises. i notice it when there is reflections off of walls or when looking at image of the sky at night where a spot light or moon may be showing


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844356
> 
> 
> 
> yes from that link you sent that is def what it seems to be, the first image is what i see in most really dark scenes in movies such as batman the dark knight rises. i notice it when there is reflections off of walls or when looking at image of the sky at night where a spot light or moon may be showing


In 8350, check your Color Mode and HDMI Video Range (see manual).

 

In PS3, check for anything that might affect color output ... bits level, deep color, etc. Be sure it's set to 1080p.

 

If running it through an AVR, be sure it's isn't doing anything weird to signal (just set to pass-thru).

 

Just watched Dark Knight Rises the other night. Don't remember seeing any banding.


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844515
> 
> 
> In 8350, check your Color Mode and HDMI Video Range (see manual).
> 
> 
> In PS3, check for anything that might affect color output ... bits level, deep color, etc. Be sure it's set to 1080p.
> 
> 
> If running it through an AVR, be sure it's isn't doing anything weird to signal (just set to pass-thru).
> 
> 
> Just watched Dark Knight Rises the other night. Don't remember seeing any banding.



I will check that and let u know, thank you!


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844319
> 
> 
> Ya, the Lens Shift is amazing (and you don't have to have the lens in the horizontal center of the screen) but there are limits to what it can do.
> 
> 
> Good to hear you got it figured out.
> 
> 
> However, if I was to permanently mount mine from the ceiling, I would have a hard time NOT putting the pole in the middle of the screen (guess that's why mine is still on the shelf).



Well semi figured out. It's sitting on a table that is really taking up space that I need. Putting that shelf up is becoming troublesome. And of course ceiling mounting is out because of the tiles. I had the lay out of my house.


----------



## aijuswannasing

If anything, ceiling tiles make the installation easier, at least in regards to exact placement and hiding wires. Remove the tiles above where you want the projector, screw in a board to the studs, screw the projector mount to the board, and make sure the its a mount with a pole that falls under the ceiling level. Mark that spot, cut a hole in the tile for the pole to pass through, then mount the projector.


if that all seems a bit over your skill level, you really should hire a pro... At least then you can start enjoying your investment instead of stressing over it. With the lens shift, a pro can easily have the job done in an hour, so labor isn't really going to break the bank.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

So I just got another receiver after the last one was destroyed. its a Yamaha RX-V673BL. I connect a 50 foot cable from the receiver to the projector. I used the same cable yesterday on the very same blu-ray player and it worked fine. Now the projector just says not supported. WHAT NOW? The guy at Yamaha said that the cable could be too long but I know it works. He said the longest cable I should use is 15 feet. Really? My projector is more than 15 feet away and im certainly not going to run a cable across the floor, no im running it along the wall. I think im just going to get rid of the projector, im obviously too stupid to get it right, story of my life.


----------



## TrekFX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22820952
> 
> 
> Yep, worked great. It was easy, just follow his instructions, I also posted a few weeks back with some additional comments. If my projector develops dust blobs again I know what to do now. I don't know if the dust was in the projector from the factory or accumulated after running (I have less than 300 hrs so far). If from the factory then I would not expect to have any further issues.



Just a quick note.


The side panels come off very easily:


Remove screws with unit upside down.


(you can turn the back rightside up to make this next step easier...)


Pull/rotate bottom edge only of the side panel outward. Once the bottom edge just clears the chassis, lift straight up to disengage top clips and pull away from unit. To replace, hook top edge over clips and rotate bottom in to seat.


Sounds way harder than it is!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22847068
> 
> 
> So I just got another receiver after the last one was destroyed. its a Yamaha RX-V673BL. I connect a 50 foot cable from the receiver to the projector. I used the same cable yesterday on the very same blu-ray player and it worked fine. Now the projector just says not supported. WHAT NOW? The guy at Yamaha said that the cable could be too long but I know it works. He said the longest cable I should use is 15 feet. Really? My projector is more than 15 feet away and im certainly not going to run a cable across the floor, no im running it along the wall. I think im just going to get rid of the projector, im obviously too stupid to get it right, story of my life.


Here is my long run. Notice I use cables with known heavy gauge wires inside. Pretty sure that is the key to using long cables. Better to "over build" your run than it be "not enough".

 

Final 57ft HDMI chain to Epson 8350:

Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR

2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0) (MonoPrice # 5312)

45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable

HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (MonoPrice # 2849)

12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net

Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector

18 ft. from wall/screen = (96" or 8ft diag. image)

 

The HDMI switch is really just being used as a splitter (clone signal) for the plasma. MonoPrice has a smaller/cheaper HDMI 1.3 splitter-only box but since this one works, I never got around to trying it. Not sure if HDMI switch is doing anything to stabilize signal or not (before it heads-out on long run). I have a feeling it doesn't (but doesn't diminish signal either).

 

My projector is in the back of the room on the counter. Since you have to go up-and-down-walls ... this chews-up some cable length. If I ever ceiling mount mine, I'll just pull the 45 ft cable back into ceiling and it will easily reach the ceiling mount (with some to spare). The final 12ft. extension won't be needed any more. The HDMI Active Equalizer is passive (non-powered) and really just a fancy female-to-female adapter (with a little extra insurance). Pretty sure I tried it with a plain adapter and it worked also. The 45ft cable is over 0.50 inches in diameter. Needless to say, it doesn't bend well.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22847068
> 
> 
> Yamaha RX-V673BL. I connect a 50 foot cable from the receiver to the projector. I used the same cable yesterday on the very same blu-ray player and it worked fine.


Try the Blu-Ray player again, directly to the projector (no amp).

 

What is the make and model of this cable? What is the gauge?


----------



## Alexdad54

I've tried searching this thread but can't seem to find the exact issue that I'm having.

I have my 8350 hooked up via a 30ft Monoprice Redmere cable to my Oppo 95, WD TV Live and my XBOX360s via a Kinivo 501BN 5 port HDMI switch. I had a Monoprice HDMI a switch but it was limited to 1080i s and was giving me problems so I got the Kinivo which does 1080p and is powered. have no issues re 1080p resolution with the Oppo and the WD TV live but when I try to change the resolution on the XBOX from 1368 to 1920X1080 on the home page (i.e. not a game) I get a black screen and "resolution not supported message" The Xbox is on expanded range and so is the Epson and I have tried switching out various HDMI cables on the Xbox including a better Monoprice cable and the stock MS cable.

Am I missing something? Is it perhaps an EDID problem between the Xbox and the 8350? If so, is there a solution to this? I hope I don't to have to get a new HDMI cable as its fastened down along the baseboards.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22848142
> 
> 
> Try the Blu-Ray player again, directly to the projector (no amp).
> 
> 
> What is the make and model of this cable? What is the gauge?



It works fine with just the blu-ray player. I used this cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9172&seq=1&format=2 It's clearly a good cable.....I just don't know what to do anymore and im pretty much giving up. I need to get my money back soon or I will have to sell it on ebay.


----------



## Tesla1856


I added some more pics to my profile on: Home Theater (Living Room). No tripod, camera is only 4mp, and it was complaining about not using the flash.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22849375
> 
> 
> 
> It works fine with just the blu-ray player. I used this cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9172&seq=1&format=2 It's clearly a good cable.....I just don't know what to do anymore and im pretty much giving up. I need to get my money back soon or I will have to sell it on ebay.


I read what is says (about 28awg being fine) and maybe it is (since the Blu-Ray player plays fine over it). Maybe it's magical or special, but since it doesn't work with the amp you have to wonder about it. I don't think they sold those back when I bought mine. Maybe RedMere is not compatible with Yamaha HDMI or you have some other problem. I know a little about electronics and signals. Maybe it's old-school, but I think I would have still bought what I bought. Normally, you increase gauge as length increases.

 

If you would have asked first, I would have suggested something much thicker. It's been asked before in this thread and thats what we (I anyway) told people.

 

Sorry to hear you are giving up. It's not that hard, but you certainly have had some bad luck on your install.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22849523
> 
> 
> I read what is says (about 28awg being fine) and maybe it is (since the Blu-Ray player plays fine over it). Maybe it's magical or special, but since it doesn't work with the amp you have to wonder about it. I don't think they sold those back when I bought mine. Maybe RedMere is not compatible with Yamaha HDMI or you have some other problem. I know a little about electronics and signals. Maybe it's old-school, but I think I would have still bought what I bought. Normally, you increase gauge as length increases.
> 
> 
> If you would have asked first, I would have suggested something much thicker. It's been asked before in this thread and thats what we (I anyway) told people.
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you are giving up. It's not that hard, but you certainly have had some bad luck on your install.



Well like I said the blu ray player plays it fine and I don't have unlimited funds on cables. Another one is going to cost me EVEN MORE money than the 75 I already spent on the monoprice cable. The customer service at Yamaha says that the receiver won't do anything over 15 feet..........but it might. Im just so tired of being jerked around. So what do I drive the 40 minutes back to best buy and get another receiver and hope that works better? Buy a shorter cable and hope that works better? And how do I run it? Just straight across the floor? Yeah that isn't going to look good and im sure someone will trip over it. Im at my wits end. I even thought about paying the geek squad to come over and install it but they can't doing anything about the limitations the cables and receiver I have.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alexdad54*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22848937
> 
> 
> I've tried searching this thread but can't seem to find the exact issue that I'm having.
> 
> I have my 8350 hooked up via a 30ft Monoprice Redmere cable to my Oppo 95, WD TV Live and my XBOX360s via a Kinivo 501BN 5 port HDMI switch. I had a Monoprice HDMI a switch but it was limited to 1080i s and was giving me problems so I got the Kinivo which does 1080p and is powered. have no issues re 1080p resolution with the Oppo and the WD TV live but when I try to change the resolution on the XBOX from 1368 to 1920X1080 on the home page (i.e. not a game) I get a black screen and "resolution not supported message" The Xbox is on expanded range and so is the Epson and I have tried switching out various HDMI cables on the Xbox including a better Monoprice cable and the stock MS cable.
> 
> Am I missing something? Is it perhaps an EDID problem between the Xbox and the 8350? If so, is there a solution to this? I hope I don't to have to get a new HDMI cable as its fastened down along the baseboards.


Connect XBox360 directly to 8350 and do your res thingy. If it doesn't work over 30ft-RedMere, try 10-15 ft normal cable (bring xBox to projector). Find out what works and troubleshoot from there.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22849738
> 
> 
> Connect XBox360 directly to 8350 and do your res thingy. If it doesn't work over 30ft-RedMere, try 10-15 ft normal cable (bring xBox to projector). Find out what works and troubleshoot from there.


This.


Assuming that works, the long cable run is the problem. Another option instead of buying a new heavier gauge long cable, could be to get an HDMI signal booster/repeater. In my previous home (when I had a Panny 720p projector) I bought this PhoenixGold repeater . I see that there's just one review on Amazon for it and it's a negative one, but it's worked for me. I don't need it with my present setup for the 8350, but am successfully using it to get a couple of shorter cables run from a splitter to my secondary display in the room (a 720p plasma). If anyone here has any thoughts as to why it's a bad idea to use a powered signal repeater, let me know.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alexdad54*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22848937
> 
> 
> I've tried searching this thread but can't seem to find the exact issue that I'm having.
> 
> I have my 8350 hooked up via a 30ft Monoprice Redmere cable to my Oppo 95, WD TV Live and my XBOX360s via a Kinivo 501BN 5 port HDMI switch. I had a Monoprice HDMI a switch but it was limited to 1080i s and was giving me problems so I got the Kinivo which does 1080p and is powered. have no issues re 1080p resolution with the Oppo and the WD TV live but when I try to change the resolution on the XBOX from 1368 to 1920X1080 on the home page (i.e. not a game) I get a black screen and "resolution not supported message" The Xbox is on expanded range and so is the Epson and I have tried switching out various HDMI cables on the Xbox including a better Monoprice cable and the stock MS cable.
> 
> Am I missing something? Is it perhaps an EDID problem between the Xbox and the 8350? If so, is there a solution to this? I hope I don't to have to get a new HDMI cable as its fastened down along the baseboards.


Is your switch also sending two separate signals *OUT* to two different displays (e.g., a TV and the 8350)? If so, it could be getting confusing EDID info from the other display. My older receiver is about 1 HDMI input short of my needs and only has 1 HDMI out, so I'm using a Monoprice switcher/splitter (HDX-402) in this manner: I have an XBox 360 going into it, then using one of the outs to go to my 720p plasma and the other out to my Onkyo receiver. The Onkyo receiver has other devices going into it, and then the Onkyo's only out is going to the 8350. That's been working well for me, but limits me to just using the plasma for occasional TV watching.


*BUT* I previously attempted to have the XBox 360 go into the Onkyo and have the Onkyo's out go to the HDX-402, and then from that I just used it as a splitter to feed both my plasma and the 8350. With that setup, I ran into a problem with my Apple TV (3rd gen - 1080p) where if I had the 720p plasma powered up first, the ATV would set itself to 720p output mode, and it wouldn't change if I turned off the TV and powered up the 8350.


Anyways, none of that may be applicable to your issue, but I thought I'd throw it out there. As with the previous posts about another person's issue, I would recommend plugging the Xbox directly to the 8350 to troubleshoot first.


----------



## Alexdad54

Many thanks to all for your suggestions, I tried the suggestions and it seems to have worked for now...

I disconnected the Redmere cable to the 8350 from the switch (which only has a single output) and hooked it directly into the Xbox which then read the 1080p perfectly. Funnily enough though, it didn't look quite as sharp as the previous resolution, the 1368....

Perhaps I need to use a different mode on the Epson for gaming...

So figuring that the cable wasn't the problem I hooked it back into the Kinivo switch and, lo and behold, it worked! It now reads 1080p from the Xbox.

I'm guessing that the Xbox for some reason couldn't discover the native resolution of the Epson but that's just an uneducated guess!










I have several sources on at the same time on the Kinivo as it's recommended to leave my Oppo 95 on all the time and I also don't like to turn off the WD TV Live as it loses the video settings every time. Could that be a problem?

*Update:* It seems that when I turn off the Xbox, I have to do the direct connection all over again to get the 1080p signal. Not sure why teh 8350 isn't getting the setting when I turn on the Xbox.


Seems I'll have to leave it on all the time now or get another 30ft Redmere HDMI cable...


----------



## sksahai

Auto Iris Error


All: On my second refurb 8350 (first was replaced due to convergence issues).

Now Auto Iris Error about 50% of the time. I power off, unplug, and it's ok. I have auto iris turned off in the settings.

Any other tricks to get it working right?


Should I call Epson for a replacement? Only 4 months into the warranty.


If so, what do I tell them so I don't get a bad unit again?


Thanks!


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844544
> 
> 
> I will check that and let u know, thank you!



i went thru some of the ps3 settings and it is putting out in 1080, but im not sure what i should be checking for with the bits level or deep color, i don't know what should or should not be selected, also would it be more beneficial to just buy a bluray player or is the ps3's quality good enough.


i just watched the newer terminator movie tonight and in the scenes when they are flying the ships at night you can see a bluish haze surrounding the headlights on the ship...this is pretty much what i notice during any movie scene that is mostly dark with one bright light source somewhere in the image.


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844515
> 
> 
> In 8350, check your Color Mode and HDMI Video Range (see manual).
> 
> 
> In PS3, check for anything that might affect color output ... bits level, deep color, etc. Be sure it's set to 1080p.
> 
> 
> If running it through an AVR, be sure it's isn't doing anything weird to signal (just set to pass-thru).
> 
> 
> Just watched Dark Knight Rises the other night. Don't remember seeing any banding.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22844544
> 
> 
> I will check that and let u know, thank you!



i went thru some of the ps3 settings and it is putting out in 1080, but im not sure what i should be checking for with the bits level or deep color, i don't know what should or should not be selected, also would it be more beneficial to just buy a bluray player or is the ps3's quality good enough.


i just watched the newer terminator movie tonight and in the scenes when they are flying the ships at night you can see a bluish haze surrounding the headlights on the ship...this is pretty much what i notice during any movie scene that is mostly dark with one bright light source somewhere in the image.


----------



## jnabq

 http://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/deepcolor.html 

That explains how to turn off "deep color". The ps3 playback quality is fine. http://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/rgbfullrange.html and http://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/superwhite.html give a couple of other options that might have an effect. Read the "hints" on those settings to see if they might apply or just give 'em a try.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22853399
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i went thru some of the ps3 settings and it is putting out in 1080, but im not sure what i should be checking for with the bits level or deep color, i don't know what should or should not be selected, also would it be more beneficial to just buy a bluray player or is the ps3's quality good enough.
> 
> 
> i just watched the newer terminator movie tonight and in the scenes when they are flying the ships at night you can see a bluish haze surrounding the headlights on the ship...this is pretty much what i notice during any movie scene that is mostly dark with one bright light source somewhere in the image.


We watched Ghost Rider 2 tonight. Nice special effects (fire it not easy to CGI). Scenes were dark and we saw no banding. Still need to double-check those scenes you mentioned again (give me a few more days). Exact movies and time would help speed things along.

 

Well, there are lots of color settings in the 8350 also (as i said). Get PDF manual and seach "color". With 10-bit color and over one billion colors, you shouldn't be getting banding.

 

Set PS3 color bit level as high as possible or deep color on.

 

Ya, another component that will play Blu-Ray (perfectly) would be helpful right about now. Blu-Ray players are cheap. I think a Sony 590 is $100. Take it back if you don't like it. Or, you could borrow one.


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22853471
> 
> 
> We watched Ghost Rider 2 tonight. Nice special effects (fire it not easy to CGI). Scenes were dark and we saw no banding. Still need to double-check those scenes you mentioned again (give me a few more days). Exact movies and time would help speed things along.
> 
> 
> Well, there are lots of color settings in the 8350 also (as i said). Get PDF manual and seach "color". With 10-bit color and over one billion colors, you shouldn't be getting banding.
> 
> 
> Set PS3 color bit level as high as possible or deep color on.
> 
> 
> Ya, another component that will play Blu-Ray (perfectly) would be helpful right about now. Blu-Ray players are cheap. I think a Sony 590 is $100. Take it back if you don't like it. Or, you could borrow one.



i really appreciate all of your help, i will try to get some more specific times during movies when i see it, or even a picture.


i will also probably try out a different blu ray player and see if i still notice this happening.


thanks


----------



## sschantz

Hi guys,


Banging my head big time. I don't have cable aside from a few OTA channels thru my coax; so am trying to find a tuner to watch TV using my Onkyo and Epson 8350.


I bought a used HD TIVO, unfortunately it wasn't able to pull in the necessary channels.


I bought a Boxee TV which is superb but unfortunately CBS is coming in Spanish during all the playoff games on CBS, very frustrating as this is why I bought it and no one at Dlink can figure this out. CUrrently on my 2nd box


Would this possibly work? http://www.amazon.com/Kcpi-Dt504-Digital-Converter-Box/dp/B009L66WE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358731727&sr=8-1&keywords=KCPI+DT504+Digital+TV+Converter 

 


I am currently pulling a few OTA CHannels thru my coax, 5.1, 116.2 etc, any help greatly appreciated.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22856492
> 
> 
> I don't have cable aside from a few OTA channels thru my coax; so am trying to find a tuner to watch TV using my Onkyo and Epson 8350.


Not sure I understand ...

 

If you are doing OTA ... ATSC with antenna, you might as well get a nice one of these:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/179095/the-official-avs-hdtv-stb-synopsis#post_22779649

Free ATSC is actually pretty good with a good antenna and enough signal.

 

If you just have analog cable? Well, for what you are paying, it's probably like $10-$20 more to get a digital tuner ... go to the office and get one.

 

I think you can also get rent a Cable-Card for the TiVo but I have no experience with that. Check their forum.


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22853471
> 
> 
> We watched Ghost Rider 2 tonight. Nice special effects (fire it not easy to CGI). Scenes were dark and we saw no banding. Still need to double-check those scenes you mentioned again (give me a few more days). Exact movies and time would help speed things along.
> 
> 
> Well, there are lots of color settings in the 8350 also (as i said). Get PDF manual and seach "color". With 10-bit color and over one billion colors, you shouldn't be getting banding.
> 
> 
> Set PS3 color bit level as high as possible or deep color on.
> 
> 
> Ya, another component that will play Blu-Ray (perfectly) would be helpful right about now. Blu-Ray players are cheap. I think a Sony 590 is $100. Take it back if you don't like it. Or, you could borrow one.



so i picked up the sony 390, the step down from the 590 simply because i dont need the 3d option. i put back in terminator and still noticed the banding, so i was thinking it must be something with the projectors settings, so i went into the color mode which iv been regularly using in either natural mode or cinema, because i am in a basement which is pretty light controlled, so i tried changing it to livingroom and also dynamic and it seemed to eliminate the banding. im not sure why this would make it better, i thought being in a dark room you should be using the modes such as cinema. i dont want to keep it on these brighter modes for the fear of burning out the bulb too fast. not sure what to do.


i plan on testing these settings again tomorrow with the ps3 set back up, ill see how that goes. not sure if ill keep the sony player.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22857103
> 
> 
> 
> so i picked up the sony 390, the step down from the 590 simply because i dont need the 3d option. i put back in terminator and still noticed the banding, so i was thinking it must be something with the projectors settings, so i went into the color mode which iv been regularly using in either natural mode or cinema, because i am in a basement which is pretty light controlled, so i tried changing it to livingroom and also dynamic and it seemed to eliminate the banding. im not sure why this would make it better, i thought being in a dark room you should be using the modes such as cinema. i dont want to keep it on these brighter modes for the fear of burning out the bulb too fast. not sure what to do.
> 
> 
> i plan on testing these settings again tomorrow with the ps3 set back up, ill see how that goes. not sure if ill keep the sony player.


Yes, please check your manual. Lots of good stuff in there.

 

Since my room is multi-use I use 3 different Color Modes. I use the darkest one at Night and the next 2. I could check their real names if it's important. I called the marcos on the Harmony remote Night, Dusk and Day. I've never noticed any banding and most Day viewing is instead on the plasma.

 

I'm pretty sure only the Power Consumption option (Normal or Eco) affects bulb life. Maybe someone else knows for sure.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22856750
> 
> 
> Not sure I understand ...
> 
> 
> If you are doing OTA ... ATSC with antenna, you might as well get a nice one of these:
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/179095/the-official-avs-hdtv-stb-synopsis#post_22779649
> 
> Free ATSC is actually pretty good with a good antenna and enough signal.
> 
> 
> If you just have analog cable? Well, for what you are paying, it's probably like $10-$20 more to get a digital tuner ... go to the office and get one.
> 
> 
> I think you can also get rent a Cable-Card for the TiVo but I have no experience with that. Check their forum.



Sorry about that, guess what I wrote is confusing. When I cancelled my cable service I guess my provider didn't officially turn off all my channels. Thru my coax I get all the basics, ABC, NBC, Fox etc but they are channels with a decimal point 5.1 116.2 which are the numbers I would get with an antenna. Will look more at your link but didn't want to spend $150 for a box but I guess if I have to....


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22856492
> 
> 
> I bought a used HD TIVO, unfortunately it wasn't able to pull in the necessary channels.


You mentioned in your follow-up post that you're no longer paying the cable company for TV. WIth the TiVo HD you need a cablecard, which you'd have to get from the cable company, so that's out. You *could* use the TiVo HD to tune in OTA (with an antenna) channels, but you'd need to still pay the TiVo fee (unless it already had a lifetime subscription) and that assumes you're able to reliably pull in all of the channels you want with an antenna.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22856492
> 
> 
> Would this possibly work? http://www.amazon.com/Kcpi-Dt504-Digital-Converter-Box/dp/B009L66WE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358731727&sr=8-1&keywords=KCPI+DT504+Digital+TV+Converter


I wouldn't recommend it. It's going to convert the HD channels to a letterboxed 4:3 format with less than 400 lines of resolution. I didn't look over the specs in detail...I see that it has a S-Video out, but I suspect it isn't cool enough to convert 16:9 HD into anamorphic SD, but even if such boxes exist, that would still result in you dropping all the way down to 480 lines of res max.


If you're pulling in the HD locals from the cable, you want a ClearQAM tuner to be able to display those on your 8350, which the box Tesla referenced appears to be able to do (it looks like that thread he linked to discusses numerous other similar options as well).


But what other equipment do you have available to you? If you have a computer, you could also look into a ClearQAM tuner for that (e.g., single-tuner USB sticks can be found for under $50, the SiliconDust HDHomeRun dual-tuner box is about $90). If it's running Windows 7 or 8, you can use Windows Media Center as a DVR. If you have a computer you don't mind leaving on 24/7 to do that, but don't want it in the same room as your 8350 but *do* have an XBox 360 in that room, you can use the 360 as an "extender" for that Windows Media Center computer (this is part of my setup). Or, if you have a Mac, there's DVR software called EyeTV from Elgato. There are other DVR software options as well for PC, Mac, and Linux.


Keep in mind that there's a lot of discussion/rumors about the cable companies eventually scrambling *all* channels (even the locals), so that ClearQAM functionality might eventually be useless to you, even if it's working for you today. That said...I just downgraded/upgraded my TV/internet package with Comcast (less TV channels, but faster internet, and a significant cost savings from the insane price I was paying them before), and I considered moving all the way down to "Limited Basic" (about $20/month for just the locals). I noticed during the online ordering process that their website seemed to suggest that I wouldn't need any boxes from them for that, which seemed to suggest that they weren't in any hurry to scramble their ClearQAM channels.


Just out of curiosity...I'm assuming you're getting cable internet service. Who do you have, what package(s) do you have, and how much are you paying? I believe that Comcast penalizes you when you don't have TV service by charging you extra for the internet service, so you might not be paying much/any more by "officially" getting "Limited Basic" service from them, which would then allow you to pay a few bucks more a month to rent a box from them, or rent a cablecard to use with the TiVo HD.


----------



## sschantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *srauly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22857637
> 
> 
> You mentioned in your follow-up post that you're no longer paying the cable company for TV. WIth the TiVo HD you need a cablecard, which you'd have to get from the cable company, so that's out. You *could* use the TiVo HD to tune in OTA (with an antenna) channels, but you'd need to still pay the TiVo fee (unless it already had a lifetime subscription) and that assumes you're able to reliably pull in all of the channels you want with an antenna.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend it. It's going to convert the HD channels to a letterboxed 4:3 format with less than 400 lines of resolution. I didn't look over the specs in detail...I see that it has a S-Video out, but I suspect it isn't cool enough to convert 16:9 HD into anamorphic SD, but even if such boxes exist, that would still result in you dropping all the way down to 480 lines of res max.
> 
> 
> If you're pulling in the HD locals from the cable, you want a ClearQAM tuner to be able to display those on your 8350, which the box Tesla referenced appears to be able to do (it looks like that thread he linked to discusses numerous other similar options as well).
> 
> .



Great insight.


First problem, my media room is in the basement and I can't get any signals with an indoor antenna. I am not at the breaking point of installing an antenna on my roof and doing all the necessary wiring. On top- of that I am in the country and closest signals are 50 miles++ away.


Computer - I did buy one of those tuners but unfortunately only got 2 channels so I brought it back. I think it was an aptek, not sure if buying another brand would help.


Cable Company - back in the day they did have a limited/basic pkg for $20 but now the cheapest pkg is $50 "bundled" which is why I cancelled. Bill went from $140 down to $49 for just internet.


I will definitely look at Tesla's review but for now I may just need to suck it up and use the Theater for everything but Live TV.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22857475
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about that, guess what I wrote is confusing. When I cancelled my cable service I guess my provider didn't officially turn off all my channels. Thru my coax I get all the basics, ABC, NBC, Fox etc but they are channels with a decimal point 5.1 116.2 which are the numbers I would get with an antenna. Will look more at your link but didn't want to spend $150 for a box but I guess if I have to....


Right ... you are using the digital tuner in the TV to receive the ClearQAM digital channels. This is a side-effect of having analog cable. Pretty sure ... if you (anyone) have the cable connected to your house, you have analog cable. They can't disconnect it because you are using their Internet service.

 

I think we have covered your options pretty well by now.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

Well good news. I went with a 25 foot cable instead and I go it all to work. I hate the instead of running it along the baseboard im now running it across the ceiling but at least it's working now. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a shelf? I have one now that as a swinging arm that makes the projector hard to angle because it keeps moving.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sschantz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22857674
> 
> 
> I will definitely look at Tesla's review but for now I may just need to suck it up and use the Theater for everything but Live TV.


We're way off topic for this thread, but feel free to PM me if you want to discuss further.


----------



## sirip

My 5yr old PJ started exhibiting blue polarizer burn - yellowish image on all white scenes. It has only about 2400-2500hrs. Before plunging into upgrade, I am trying to find howlong the new Epson C2Fine panels will last. I know all panels of Epson's recent models are inorganic but there are no tests to prove their longevity. Also, I am not sure if polarizer layers are also inorganic or just the LCD module only. If polarizer is still organic, we should still hit the same issue with new models too. So, I thought 8350 may provide some clues as it is in the market more than 2yrs. Scouring this thread gave me some clues - someone had 5000+hrs, few people had 2000-3000hrs and many under 1000. No one complained explicitly about any polarizer burn issues so far.


Could everyone please post how many hours they have used or still using their 8350 and if they have noticed any polarizer burn issues ?


thank you very much in advance.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22862024
> 
> 
> Well good news. I went with a 25 foot cable instead and I go it all to work. I hate the instead of running it along the baseboard im now running it across the ceiling but at least it's working now. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a shelf? I have one now that as a swinging arm that makes the projector hard to angle because it keeps moving.


Good to hear you are finally able to use your 8350. What exact cable and gauge did you end up using? You might be able to return the RedMere to MonoPrice.

 

Once you have the cable working external, it's not that much harder to install in ceiling attic if you are handy (eventually ... not now ... enjoy some first). Also, concider just going ahead and use a proper ceiling mount (you "get back" some cable length).

 

Saw this a while back:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/3360#post_19988371

 

However, if your existing shelf mount is mounted and working in the proper place ... I would just tighen it or wedge something in the hinges. You can do good things with wire-ties and pieces of plastic lids.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22862024
> 
> 
> Well good news. I went with a 25 foot cable instead and I go it all to work. I hate the instead of running it along the baseboard im now running it across the ceiling but at least it's working now. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a shelf? I have one now that as a swinging arm that makes the projector hard to angle because it keeps moving.



Those glass shelves look awesome, I guess they might require some dusting. http://www.omnimount.com/products/av_wall_shelves/ecs/ hold up to 30 lbs, and wide enough. Or, google images for one, if you want to get handy.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7740#post_22871811
> 
> 
> Those glass shelves look awesome, I guess they might require some dusting. http://www.omnimount.com/products/av_wall_shelves/ecs/ hold up to 30 lbs, and wide enough. Or, google images for one, if you want to get handy.



Yeah thats the one I have, I hate it because it swings far too easily which makes lining up my projector hard.


Also the lamp hours are very inaccurate right? Mine says I have 28 hours when I know I only have about half that.


----------



## mastermaybe

Guys:


The fact I'm considering this projector in the sub $1200 category nearly 3 years after its release speaks to how great it is, however I'm concerned about the convergence issues...real? Overstated?


I'm not really into sending back PJs for issues I can avoid.


I suppose I avoid PJs like the benq 1070 for potential rbe so there's "evil" lurking on both sides, lol.


Just looking for some feedback is all, I guess.


I plan on using the unit outside this summer for some late night movies and baseball so I think I'd enjoy its solid image in vivid but then again the benq seems to calibrate quite bright as well!


In some ways I wish I had never heard about these convergence issues as I'm sure the chances of me getting a unit that's perfectly fine are likley far greater.


So, 8350 owners: would you do it again or is there/are there better options now?


Thanks a ton!


James


----------



## Archaea




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastermaybe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7760_20#post_22893148
> 
> 
> Guys:
> 
> 
> The fact I'm considering this projector in the sub $1200 category speaks to how great it is...
> 
> 
> James













I think that came out different than you meant it your highness



in the words of Jim Carrey


o o o h h h really?











I'm on my fifth. carps on his sixth and both his and my current 8350 has yet another issue and needs be sent back. convergence is one of many dissapointments you may encounter with this projector. there are also random dust blobs, and auto iris failures are seemingly imminent.


I'd go back to Panasonic if I were to have a redo.


I had two Panasonic 720p projectors before this Epson with nary an issue.


when the Epson is working it looks great, is bright...


...when it is working



on the plus side epsons warranty support is great.


----------



## mastermaybe

(Re the initial post: I failed to add that I was a bit amazed that it's still among the $1000ish 1080 pjs being considered, nearly 3 years after its release).


That's a shame...it's just so hard to ignore the overwhelmingly positive reviews here on the PJ sites and amazon. I'm also considering the benq1070 and perhaps now, the Epson 3020?


Thanks for the honest take


James


----------



## jnabq

I think the Benq 1070 is offering a little better pj, vs the Epson 3020. If you get a good 3020 it's fine, but qc seems to be lacking a little lately, even if their support may be superior. Warranty goes to the Epson, but for price/value, the Benq seems to be a better deal overall and would be my choice if I were shopping.


----------



## cklinkbeil

Benq has the 1070... $1399 msrp and only has

10,000:1 contrast where as the epson 8350 is $1299 msrp and has a 50,000:1 contrast ratio. I would obviously pick epson over benq when it comes down to stats and price.


----------



## konimus09

so i have played around with the settings on both my ps3 and Epson 8350 projector to try and fix what seems to be banding during dark scenes. the only consistent fix that i have found for this problem is to keep the color mode set to living room or dynamic. when i set it to normal or cinema it creates the distortion in the image during a dark scene where a flashlight or street light may be glowing. im not sure if there is a way to change more settings on the projector so i can use cinema mode to get the best blacks without the distortion/banding...


any info would be helpfull thanks.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22906761
> 
> 
> so i have played around with the settings on both my ps3 and Epson 8350 projector to try and fix what seems to be banding during dark scenes. the only consistent fix that i have found for this problem is to keep the color mode set to living room or dynamic. when i set it to normal or cinema it creates the distortion in the image during a dark scene where a flashlight or street light may be glowing. im not sure if there is a way to change more settings on the projector so i can use cinema mode to get the best blacks without the distortion/banding...
> 
> 
> any info would be helpfull thanks.


1. What is your source?

Blu-ray, DVD, streaming?


2.Which content/movie is giving this issue?


----------



## konimus09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22907147
> 
> 
> 1. What is your source?
> 
> Blu-ray, DVD, streaming?
> 
> 
> 2.Which content/movie is giving this issue?



its all blu ray played on a ps3, i have also tried a regular bluray player, and its almost any movie with dark scenes that have a light shinning in the scene, either from headlights on a car/plane to a flashlight, its almost like the blueish tint that the light gives off is creating some halo effect that is extremely noticeable and almost blotchy looking


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22908219
> 
> 
> its all blu ray played on a ps3, i have also tried a regular bluray player, and its almost any movie with dark scenes that have a light shinning in the scene, either from headlights on a car/plane to a flashlight, its almost like the blueish tint that the light gives off is creating some halo effect that is extremely noticeable and almost blotchy looking


1. What's the signal chain between the ps3 and 8350?

2. What is the HDMI cable length between each device?

3. Have you tried replacing cables?

4. Can you post your picture settings


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cklinkbeil*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22906541
> 
> 
> Benq has the 1070... $1399 msrp and only has
> 
> 10,000:1 contrast where as the epson 8350 is $1299 msrp and has a 50,000:1 contrast ratio. I would obviously pick epson over benq when it comes down to stats and price.


*MSRP* of $1399, it's actually easy to find for $899, and even though the Epson has the better blacks, the price/performance of the Benq is actually pretty darn good. Obviously, you'd prefer the better blacks at the $400 price difference, which is fine. I chose my Epson 6010 based on several things it had going for it, incl. value with included extras, and Epson support. Will the Benq beat the Epson in dark images scenes, no. Is it a good value for what it can do. I think so.


----------



## sksahai

Exactly which generation / model of TIVO do you have?

Some TIVOs have a built in OTA tuner, others don't


The Tivo Premiere can take a OTA signal by connecting an antenna to the coax line. That's my solution.


If you need, you need to goto tvfool.com and plug in your address and see what antenna works best for you.


If you are plugging in the coax line from the cable feed to the TIVO, you can't pull the OTAn signal as far as I know.


----------



## mastermaybe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Archaea*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22893434
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that came out different than you meant it your highness
> 
> 
> 
> in the words of Jim Carrey
> 
> 
> o o o h h h really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on my fifth. carps on his sixth and both his and my current 8350 has yet another issue and needs be sent back. convergence is one of many dissapointments you may encounter with this projector. there are also random dust blobs, and auto iris failures are seemingly imminent.
> 
> 
> I'd go back to Panasonic if I were to have a redo.
> 
> 
> I had two Panasonic 720p projectors before this Epson with nary an issue.
> 
> 
> when the Epson is working it looks great, is bright...
> 
> 
> ...when it is working
> 
> 
> 
> on the plus side epsons warranty support is great.



ELEVEN projectors between 2 humans? Insane.


Are these refurbs? At what point do you just try another brand/model?

What kind of issues have you experienced? Don't you both run 20-30db+ hot bass in your rooms? I wonder if that has an effect?


I'm so sick of this I'm nearly ready to can the idea...I realize that virtually every CEM in existence is prone to the seemingly limitless scrutiny of avs-goers, but PJs have to be the worst.


Benq1070 : (seemingly) significant firmware, quality control, build quality, and hardware issues. +RBE extremely limited placement options

Epson 3020: no 24fps (sig judder) more convergence issues, dust blobs

Epson 8350: blobs, auto iris issues, convergence issues


Take your pic. I realize these are "entry level" PJs, but for $1,000+ you'd like to think sig issues would be less frequent...or perhaps they are and is isn't far removed than some returning LCD TVs 6 times because they don't like the drawbacks inherent to the tech.


Sigh. At least the 8350 seems to have the best combo of black levels, light output, and placement versatility. That's why I keep coming back to it, I suppose.



Arrrrg.


James


----------



## Archaea

James, I'm a bit of a picky consumer. So is carp. I want my video near perfect. If it's not I'll send it back. In my touring of home theaters I've seen multiple 8350s and I'd be sending some of them back immediately when it didn't seem to bother the owner.


They are good for the money, but prone to the issues discussed.


If you aren't real picky you might not even notice or care. I'm the guy who seemingly refocuses his projector before every movie, because the bass knocks the focus ever so slightly out of alignment. I hate dust blobs and will send it back. I'm in a near completely light controlled room so dust blobs are easy to see. I use my projector as a home theater monitor and if my text convergence is wrong I'll send it back. If all you ever did was watch blurays in a light filled living room you'd probably notice none of this things.


20-30dB hot bass? Ha. I'm not carp!










No way. More like 6-15 depending on source.


----------



## Archaea

Oh and all warranty replacements are refurbs, only my first was new.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastermaybe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22913481
> 
> 
> Epson 8350: blobs, auto iris issues, convergence issues


No problems here. Mine is 1.5 yrs old. I don't find it slipping, but I occasionally check focus against a 1080p text graphic (logos and badges) on my Windows Wallpaper.

 

There is apparently also a comparable Panasonic 3LCD ... not sure of model.


----------



## mastermaybe

^ prolly the ar 100...I've been hot on that one lately, lol. Seems to have the least number of complaints per capita, honestly.


James


----------



## Archaea

panasonic makes really solid projectors in my personal ownership experience.


----------



## horseflesh

Subscribed. I am trying to choose between the 8350 and the 5020UB, if anyone has opinions on that.


If anyone can recommend a vendor for either, I'd appreciate a link too (or a PM).


----------



## tpoynton

Thought I would throw my two cents in randomly here...maybe someone will find it useful some day.


First time projector owner who did a ton of research/reading. I picked up the 8350 about three weeks ago, using it mostly for TV and sports. Have a 90" home made screen (had an elite roll-down from my traveling presentation days that I cut out and stapled onto a velvet-covered wood frame). Here were my main concerns:


low white ceiling - would picture get washed out?

motion in sports - would it look bad?

ambient light - is the projector bright enough?


other requirement - lens shift for placement flexibility


After the super bowl and a few weeks of TV watching for an hour or two a day, I have been blown away with how good it looks - even with a white screen so close to the ceiling (it is about 8 inches from white ceiling tile, and 3 inches from a white soffit that is near the first foot or so on the right side). No motion issues I could detect.


In terms of ambient light, i have two windows right near the screen that I put blackout shades on - the picture definitely degrades with the lights near the screen on, but lights in the back of the room provide needed light without affecting the picture - and the image is so bright it lights up the front of the room. I have been running the projector on cinema mode, eco.


The room is 12' wide by 23' long, with seating and projector at 12' from the screen. Bought a monoprice mount for like 15 bucks and modified it so that it only dropped about 10 inches. Initially I had to keep adjusting the lens shift, but it seems to have settled. I did put in a beam to isolate the projector from the floor joists above, to prevent bouncing when people upstairs walk.


Watched one movie; it was formatted to 2:35 format, so it had the black bars...and they looked black to me. I need to get a bluray next time; the picture quality didnt seem that great to me - and i had to put it on natural/not eco to get the picture bright enough.


I picked up the projector in early january at Best Buy; they price matched amazon. with all the reported problems here, I wanted to buy local - and I picked up the extended warranty (which I almost never do) just in case something does go wrong.


Bottom line, I am ecstatic - and happy I went with this (at the moment) over the panny ar100u. I will probably paint up a gray screen at some point - light scenes show defects on the screen (there are some factory wrinkles in the screen, like the material got ironed onto itself) that I can easily switch out with the white screen. If I could have bought the ar100u locally, I probably would have gotten that one though.


I have about 30 hours of use, so these are initial impressions - but overall, the picture quality is much better than I expected it to be. It probably helps I have a relatively small screen mounted relatively close. No regrets!


----------



## JamieMcShan

I am currently building a home theater. I'm new to the projector world. I am pretty set on the 8350 based on price and features. But, can someone just confirm. I was wanting to do a 120" diagonal AT screen. According to projector central calculator I should have the projector mounted at 16' from screen. I currently have the mount at 15' do I need to move it the 1 foot? (not a big deal at this point in construction) Or is there a +/- on the that? Also there isn't an issue with projecting it as 120" right? The Epson site says this is for 100". Again be gentle... I am still learning. The room has no windows and will be completely light controlled. Thanks for your help.


Jamie

Dripping Springs, Tx


----------



## tpoynton

without looking at the site to verify, I think you are fine. 16 ft would probably be at middle of zoom. search for coderguy calculator I found that much more useful. on mobile at moment so can not easily check


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamieMcShan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22931327
> 
> 
> I am currently building a home theater. I'm new to the projector world. I am pretty set on the 8350 based on price and features. But, can someone just confirm. I was wanting to do a 120" diagonal AT screen. According to projector central calculator I should have the projector mounted at 16' from screen. I currently have the mount at 15' do I need to move it the 1 foot? (not a big deal at this point in construction) Or is there a +/- on the that? Also there isn't an issue with projecting it as 120" right? The Epson site says this is for 100". Again be gentle... I am still learning. The room has no windows and will be completely light controlled. Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Jamie
> 
> Dripping Springs, Tx


 http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ is coderguys calc, if you want to look at numbers. Using a 120" screen, the throw distance will be from about 12' out to 25', but.... you'll start loosing brightness dropping below 12 fl past about 14'. The bulb will dim as it ages as well, so leave yourself some room on the brightness scale. I'd suggest you stay within the 12'-14' range, unless you get a higher gain screen. Going from a 1.0 to a 1.3 gain screen would allow you to set the pj back about 18'.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamieMcShan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22931327
> 
> 
> I am currently building a home theater. I'm new to the projector world. I am pretty set on the 8350 based on price and features. But, can someone just confirm. I was wanting to do a 120" diagonal AT screen. According to projector central calculator I should have the projector mounted at 16' from screen. I currently have the mount at 15' do I need to move it the 1 foot? (not a big deal at this point in construction) Or is there a +/- on the that? Also there isn't an issue with projecting it as 120" right? The Epson site says this is for 100". Again be gentle... I am still learning. The room has no windows and will be completely light controlled. Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Jamie
> 
> Dripping Springs, Tx





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22932414
> 
> http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ is coderguys calc, if you want to look at numbers. Using a 120" screen, the throw distance will be from about 12' out to 25', but.... you'll start loosing brightness dropping below 12 fl past about 14'. The bulb will dim as it ages as well, so leave yourself some room on the brightness scale. I'd suggest you stay within the 12'-14' range, unless you get a higher gain screen. Going from a 1.0 to a 1.3 gain screen would allow you to set the pj back about 18'.



I mostly concur, with the added recommendation that you do indeed use a 120" diag. High Contrast Gray Screen w/1.2 - 1.3 gain, set the PJ at 12' 10" throw. and then do all your calibration in "Living Room / Low Lamp" mode.


Such a configuration plays to the strengths and compensates for the weaknesses of the 8350.


There are both effective Mfg and DIY Screen solutions to effect the above. A wise choice will reward you with something better than you were expecting.


----------



## JamieMcShan

I was going to go with the Seymour AV 1.2 AT screen. So you are saying I actually need to move it closer to the screen?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastermaybe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22913481
> 
> 
> ELEVEN projectors between 2 humans? Insane.
> 
> 
> Are these refurbs? At what point do you just try another brand/model?
> 
> What kind of issues have you experienced? Don't you both run 20-30db+ hot bass in your rooms? I wonder if that has an effect?
> 
> 
> I'm so sick of this I'm nearly ready to can the idea...I realize that virtually every CEM in existence is prone to the seemingly limitless scrutiny of avs-goers, but PJs have to be the worst.
> 
> 
> Benq1070 : (seemingly) significant firmware, quality control, build quality, and hardware issues. +RBE extremely limited placement options
> 
> Epson 3020: no 24fps (sig judder) more convergence issues, dust blobs
> 
> Epson 8350: blobs, auto iris issues, convergence issues
> 
> 
> Take your pic. I realize these are "entry level" PJs, but for $1,000+ you'd like to think sig issues would be less frequent...or perhaps they are and is isn't far removed than some returning LCD TVs 6 times because they don't like the drawbacks inherent to the tech.
> 
> 
> Sigh. At least the 8350 seems to have the best combo of black levels, light output, and placement versatility. That's why I keep coming back to it, I suppose.
> 
> 
> 
> Arrrrg.
> 
> 
> James



With all its faults I still like my projector the picture looks awesome. I am on my 6th but here is how it worked. My first one had the auto iris error, the first replacement they sent couldn't focus the whole screen at the same time. The next replacement was fine for a long time but developed a really bad dust blob so I sent it back. The replacement for that the focus ring wouldn't move at all, the next replacement couldn't focus, and then the final replacement is the one I still have.


So really I've used 3 projectors, the other 3 were immediately returned as soon as I got them because they had major problems that were obvious as soon as I turned them on. All 3 of those were refurbished.


Buyer beware, but when it's working right it looks great.


----------



## carp

I usually run around 6-8 hot on bass, and depending on the music sometimes I even run it flat. Since I bought the Noesis speakers I've dialed the bass back quite a bit.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamieMcShan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22934941
> 
> 
> I was going to go with the Seymour AV 1.2 AT screen. So you are saying I actually need to move it closer to the screen?



Yes. Decrease throw distance, increase Foot Lambert s, and then run the PJ in Low Lamp Mode.


That will allow you to obtain the deepest contrast possible from the 8350 on a 1.2 gain white surface.


----------



## srauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamieMcShan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22934941
> 
> 
> I was going to go with the Seymour AV 1.2 AT screen. So you are saying I actually need to move it closer to the screen?


I'll add a differing opinion...if you've already got the mount bolted in somewhere, it seems a bit silly to me to go through much effort to remount it just to push it forward by a foot. But if you're truly *building* a dedicated, light-controlled, super-dark-wall/ceiling home theater, and want everything as perfect as it can be, then perhaps moving the mount a foot closer will be worthwhile (note: I am not endorsing the previous suggestions as actually being the optimal position - they may be, I really don't know).


FWIW, in my personal case, I am using my 8350 in a living room that has very poor light control, a white ceiling (which, to my favor, is very high up) and light yellow walls. I did replace the off-white carpet recently with a very dark brown/olive, so there's that. I'm also pairing it with a Da-Lite High Power screen, and have the projector mounted very close to eye-level to maximize the gain boost that this screen offers. As such, many purists would scoff at my setup because I will not get the best possible blacks. I'll add that I'm also perfectly content with my non-lossless audio and 5.1 speakers (as opposed to, say, 7.1 or more). OTOH, I did want to maximize my screen size for movies, and I bought the biggest, widest screen that could fit on my wall in a 2.35:1 format, because that *was* important to me. The light colored walls, non-optimal acoustics, and lossy, 5.1 audio decisions were made because I knew that a dedicated black-painted home theater would not be as cozy and comfortable and, therefore, would get used less, lossless audio would require me to use HTPC playback software that didn't have a consistent UI and ease-of-use across multiple platforms (like my iPhone) whereas the Plex software I use is great in that regard (but lacks/lacked lossless audio support). And adding more speakers would add further "eyesores" to my living room, which my wife would not be pleased with (and, I don't think the added audio impact would be jawdroppingly significant - but YMMV).


Sorry for the rant...just pointing out that there are a wide variety of folks who frequent the AVS forums nowadays. In the past, it seemed like dedicated black-painted home theaters were a common goal among most members, but I don't think that one can make the assumption now that most/all of the members here subscribe to that viewpoint.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tpoynton*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22921445
> 
> 
> Thought I would throw my two cents in randomly here...maybe someone will find it useful some day.
> 
> 
> First time projector owner who did a ton of research/reading. I picked up the 8350 about three weeks ago, using it mostly for TV and sports. Have a 90" home made screen (had an elite roll-down from my traveling presentation days that I cut out and stapled onto a velvet-covered wood frame). Here were my main concerns:
> 
> 
> low white ceiling - would picture get washed out?
> 
> motion in sports - would it look bad?
> 
> ambient light - is the projector bright enough?
> 
> 
> other requirement - lens shift for placement flexibility
> 
> 
> After the super bowl and a few weeks of TV watching for an hour or two a day, I have been blown away with how good it looks - even with a white screen so close to the ceiling (it is about 8 inches from white ceiling tile, and 3 inches from a white soffit that is near the first foot or so on the right side). No motion issues I could detect.
> 
> 
> In terms of ambient light, i have two windows right near the screen that I put blackout shades on - the picture definitely degrades with the lights near the screen on, but lights in the back of the room provide needed light without affecting the picture - and the image is so bright it lights up the front of the room. I have been running the projector on cinema mode, eco.
> 
> 
> The room is 12' wide by 23' long, with seating and projector at 12' from the screen. Bought a monoprice mount for like 15 bucks and modified it so that it only dropped about 10 inches. Initially I had to keep adjusting the lens shift, but it seems to have settled. I did put in a beam to isolate the projector from the floor joists above, to prevent bouncing when people upstairs walk.
> 
> 
> Watched one movie; it was formatted to 2:35 format, so it had the black bars...and they looked black to me. I need to get a bluray next time; the picture quality didnt seem that great to me - and i had to put it on natural/not eco to get the picture bright enough.
> 
> 
> I picked up the projector in early january at Best Buy; they price matched amazon. with all the reported problems here, I wanted to buy local - and I picked up the extended warranty (which I almost never do) just in case something does go wrong.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, I am ecstatic - and happy I went with this (at the moment) over the panny ar100u. I will probably paint up a gray screen at some point - light scenes show defects on the screen (there are some factory wrinkles in the screen, like the material got ironed onto itself) that I can easily switch out with the white screen. If I could have bought the ar100u locally, I probably would have gotten that one though.
> 
> 
> I have about 30 hours of use, so these are initial impressions - but overall, the picture quality is much better than I expected it to be. It probably helps I have a relatively small screen mounted relatively close. No regrets!



My experience with the 8350 has been similar. I've owned it for less than 6 months and have about 300 hours on the bulb. I moved up from a Mits HC1500 720P DLP unit to the Epson. Overall I've been very pleased with the image and all the other aspects of the projector. My biggest gripe with the HC1500 was the noise, between the fan and the color wheel, even in eco mode, it was too distracting for me. The 8350 is about 3 times quieter.


My screen is a Carada 96" High Contrast Grey fixed to the wall, blacks appear very nice on this screen. My HT room is light controlled, the projector is 13' back from the screen, mounted 10" below the ceiling which is slightly above the screen to get the unit as far away as possible from the seating directly below. I'm using all the lens shift the unit has to give and the picture geometry appears 99% square. I think it is difficult for me to get the picture 100% correct as no wall is perfectly flat and even though I have a fixed screen it is still mounted to a wall that is not perfectly flat. Also, I needed to put the projector at a very slight angle to get the last 0.25" of picture at the top of the screen so that's not helping but I didn't want to add a down rod.


The picture focus from corner to corner of the screen is also not perfect, it is slightly soft at the extreme top and bottom of the picture but I can't say that the softness isn't due to my setup. If I wanted to pursue perfection, I would add the down rod and move the projector more inline with the screen. The softness is not at all noticeable when watching TV or movies, I only notice it when running my HTPC and looking at text.


I have not had any issues with the Auto Iris, I only hear it working when the picture goes almost entirely black for more than a few seconds, I can hear it stopping down for a second but when the picture gets bright again I don't hear the iris opening back up. If it really bothered me I would just turn off the Auto Iris but since it gives better blacks I will keep it active.


Overall I'd say this is a really good projector for the money, my cost was only $1,070 new so it was quite a bit cheaper than the next closest contender.


----------



## eyekode

So I bit the bullet and bought a refurb 8350 from VA last Friday. It finally arrived today.


My initial impression is that it is much bigger than I expected! And the lens looks like a serious piece of glass.


So I quick hooked it up to an iogear wireless HDMI receiver, removed the lens stabilizing foam thingy and turned it on.


The range of adjustment for shift is amazing! But the mechanism is under damped and it moves whenever I adjusted zoom (or even looked at it funny...).


But then the kicker: the focus ring is stuck! Won't move a bit. I am concerned that if I apply any more torque I will break something. I must have spent 30 mins trying to see if there was some mechanical lock for the focus. I can't find one.


I gave Epson a call and they are cross shipping a replacement. But I am bummed!!! It won't get here until Monday and they have to put a hold on my credit card to make sure I return the defective unit.


Not a great first impression! Hopefully the next unit will work!

Salem


----------



## kevinwoodward

since it's already broken and they are sending you a new one... apply the torque. twist it break it free.


----------



## carp

One of the 6 I've had had that same problem - stuck ring. Don't worry, eventually you'll get a good one. Make sure the whole screen can get completely focused at the same time, I have my computer hooked up to it and it's easy to see if parts of the screen are focused and others aren't. That is another common problem with the 8350.


----------



## HTPC_Dude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7770#post_22962138
> 
> 
> 
> But then the kicker: the focus ring is stuck! Won't move a bit. I am concerned that if I apply any more torque I will break something. I must have spent 30 mins trying to see if there was some mechanical lock for the focus. I can't find one.
> 
> 
> I gave Epson a call and they are cross shipping a replacement. But I am bummed!!! It won't get here until Monday and they have to put a hold on my credit card to make sure I return the defective unit.



Maybe they sent you Carp's old unit







. Sometimes I think Epson has the same batch of refurbished units that they just keep sending to people until they don't get them back anymore.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22962406
> 
> 
> Maybe they sent you Carp's old unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sometimes I think Epson has the same batch of refurbished units that they just keep sending to people until they don't get them back anymore.



I've thought that too. There is no quality control with the units they send out. Some of them are so obviously broken that there is no way anyone checked them.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22962751
> 
> 
> I've thought that too. There is no quality control with the units they send out. Some of them are so obviously broken that there is no way anyone checked them.



I have bought a bunch of refurb stuff from apple. You cannot it from new. This is a much different experience







. Just for kicks I tried to find where it was focused. I tried lots of different zoom settings and distances from 0 to 15 feet. Nothing in focus. So it either somehow got broken in shipping or nobody bothered to try to form an image with this projector







.


I am optimistic though. If I can get one that works it will be a great value.

Salem


----------



## ratpacker

After years of nearly taking the plunge, I finally joined the projection fraternity today with a refurb 8350 from VA. Some impressions-

Man this thing is big. I knew going in it was supposed to be fairly large, but wow, this thing is nearly 70's era Betamax big.

It's bright. And it's quiet. No louder than my computer, which is nice. My little boys and I watched Monsters Inc, and I think it's the first time they've sat through an entire movie. Later I watched The Dark Knight and it was like seeing it for the first time.


The only snafu I ran into was the 25 foot hdmi cable I ordered from Amazon didn't work with either the 8350 or my plasma. I guess I should've stuck with Monoprice. I'm hoping I have better luck with the cable I ordered from them. Luckily the unit has lens shift, which I can't overstate how important is for someone in my situation, living in a fairly modest size apt., so I can experiment with placement options. The lens shift really came in handy as it allowed me to move my projector stand close enough to my receiver to connect it to my 6 foot cable so I could play around with it, while still aiming the pic in the same spot I plan to have it at permanently.

Right now I'm just shooting at my plain white living room wall. It's obviously servicable for now, but I plan on getting a budget priced screen soon. I was considering an Elite manual pull down, probably the 106" size. I've found it online for a little over a hundred. Does anyone have any opinions on that particular brand, or make a better suggestion for around the same price?


It's still early in the game with me and this projector, but so far it's winning me over.


----------



## umairsemail

Need some HELP.


I had a professional install my entire theater system in my bedroom. I got a 92 inch screen, sound system, and the projector installed. I first turned it on the day after he left and I noticed that the image was blurry. I measured my throw distance and found out that it was 18 feet, which is unacceptable for a 92 inch screen. *IS the image blurriness due to the large distance or could it be defective??*


THANKS!


----------



## umairsemail

I checked again and I can physically see the pixels on the screen. When i increased the size to the maximum it still didn't make a difference. The pixels are small squares that are proportionate.


What do I do??


----------



## carp

I don't want to offend, but I figured I'd better make sure - you have tried focusing with the focus ring right? If so and it won't come into focus call Epson and they will ship you a new one usually overnight.


----------



## konimus09

is there such thing as a aftermarket processor for the Epson 8350, and if so is it worth looking into for improved picture quality?


----------



## Sheridan1952

You can't swap processors in a projector like you can in a computer. They're very small and are surface-mount soldered. VERY difficult to remove. And as far as I know, there are no aftermarket parts for these projectors. Except for lamps, which should be avoided anyway.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22964510
> 
> 
> is there such thing as a aftermarket processor for the Epson 8350, and if so is it worth looking into for improved picture quality?



Are you thinking about a processor such as the Darbee? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399154/darbee-vision-darblet 


I'm loving my 8350 but do have the itch to add the Darbee.


----------



## umairsemail




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22964032
> 
> 
> I don't want to offend, but I figured I'd better make sure - you have tried focusing with the focus ring right? If so and it won't come into focus call Epson and they will ship you a new one usually overnight.



Yes, I did. Epson will send me a new one even if I didn't buy it from epson.com? I got it from bestbuy.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22965493
> 
> 
> Yes, I did. Epson will send me a new one even if I didn't buy it from epson.com? I got it from bestbuy.


If its within 30 days and you have the receipt, take it back to BB for an exchange.

Otherwise, as long as you have the receipt, Epson will honor the warranty exchange through them.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22963141
> 
> 
> After years of nearly taking the plunge, I finally joined the projection fraternity today with a refurb 8350 from VA. Some impressions-
> 
> Man this thing is big. I knew going in it was supposed to be fairly large, but wow, this thing is nearly 70's era Betamax big.
> 
> It's bright. And it's quiet. No louder than my computer, which is nice. My little boys and I watched Monsters Inc, and I think it's the first time they've sat through an entire movie. Later I watched The Dark Knight and it was like seeing it for the first time.
> 
> 
> The only snafu I ran into was the 25 foot hdmi cable I ordered from Amazon didn't work with either the 8350 or my plasma. I guess I should've stuck with Monoprice. I'm hoping I have better luck with the cable I ordered from them. Luckily the unit has lens shift, which I can't overstate how important is for someone in my situation, living in a fairly modest size apt., so I can experiment with placement options. The lens shift really came in handy as it allowed me to move my projector stand close enough to my receiver to connect it to my 6 foot cable so I could play around with it, while still aiming the pic in the same spot I plan to have it at permanently.
> 
> Right now I'm just shooting at my plain white living room wall. It's obviously servicable for now, but I plan on getting a budget priced screen soon. I was considering an Elite manual pull down, probably the 106" size. I've found it online for a little over a hundred. Does anyone have any opinions on that particular brand, or make a better suggestion for around the same price?
> 
> 
> It's still early in the game with me and this projector, but so far it's winning me over.



Seems alot of people are liking their Elite screens, I'd try one as long as the returns were going to be easy to accomplish if needed. Good luck with the new cable.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22965006
> 
> 
> Are you thinking about a processor such as the Darbee? http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399154/darbee-vision-darblet
> 
> 
> I'm loving my 8350 but do have the itch to add the Darbee.



Love the Darby on my 6010, it helps these lcd's become a little closer to their dlp counterparts sharpness. Only issues was a hdmi handshake issue that I had to sort out. Including an extra device in a hdmi chain can cause a problem, depending on the devices the chain runs through. So be aware you might need to deal with that.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800_100#post_22963359
> 
> 
> Need some HELP.
> 
> 
> I had a professional install my entire theater system in my bedroom. I got a 92 inch screen, sound system, and the projector installed. I first turned it on the day after he left and I noticed that the image was blurry.



As an installer I have few a questions. Did your INSTALLER not turn everything on to check / calibrate the system? Were you not present during or after the install was complete?


Also it should focus between 9 and 19 feet lens to screen.


----------



## swirl54

WIth all the reported problems from this unit is it worth it for me to spend 899 on a refurbished unit direct from epson with 2 year warranty.


----------



## swirl54

As stated above i said i was thinking about the 8350 refurbed i just saw a 8500 refurb for 100 more is it worth it? I have complete light control and play games a lot.


----------



## jnabq

 http://www.avsforum.com/t/1424829/epson-8500ub-vs-8350-a-modern-take If you want the better black levels, and know you may need to deal with lamp, and/or convergence issues, then yes if the warranty is through Epson.


----------



## richw23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22963141
> 
> 
> After years of nearly taking the plunge, I finally joined the projection fraternity today with a refurb 8350 from VA. Some impressions-
> 
> Man this thing is big. I knew going in it was supposed to be fairly large, but wow, this thing is nearly 70's era Betamax big.
> 
> It's bright. And it's quiet. No louder than my computer, which is nice. My little boys and I watched Monsters Inc, and I think it's the first time they've sat through an entire movie. Later I watched The Dark Knight and it was like seeing it for the first time.
> 
> 
> The only snafu I ran into was the 25 foot hdmi cable I ordered from Amazon didn't work with either the 8350 or my plasma. I guess I should've stuck with Monoprice. I'm hoping I have better luck with the cable I ordered from them. Luckily the unit has lens shift, which I can't overstate how important is for someone in my situation, living in a fairly modest size apt., so I can experiment with placement options. The lens shift really came in handy as it allowed me to move my projector stand close enough to my receiver to connect it to my 6 foot cable so I could play around with it, while still aiming the pic in the same spot I plan to have it at permanently.
> 
> Right now I'm just shooting at my plain white living room wall. It's obviously servicable for now, but I plan on getting a budget priced screen soon. I was considering an Elite manual pull down, probably the 106" size. I've found it online for a little over a hundred. Does anyone have any opinions on that particular brand, or make a better suggestion for around the same price?
> 
> 
> It's still early in the game with me and this projector, but so far it's winning me over.



Hey ratpacker, whats the gain on the elite screen? I would go with it as long as it is at least 1.0 or 1.1 it will be fine. I used to have the elite pull down and when i bought it it was about $400 so if u can grab for a $100 do it man. No worries. Last me 4 years on my epson 8100 and my infocus projector. I decided to upgrade to the 8350 and a fixed frame which is great. You will appreciate the pull down especially if the space doubles as a functional room. Enjoy your new world of entertainment. It is like watching stuff for the first time, almost every time.


Richw23


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richw23*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800#post_22977316
> 
> 
> Hey ratpacker, whats the gain on the elite screen? I would go with it as long as it is at least 1.0 or 1.1 it will be fine. I used to have the elite pull down and when i bought it it was about $400 so if u can grab for a $100 do it man. No worries. Last me 4 years on my epson 8100 and my infocus projector. I decided to upgrade to the 8350 and a fixed frame which is great. You will appreciate the pull down especially if the space doubles as a functional room. Enjoy your new world of entertainment. It is like watching stuff for the first time, almost every time.
> 
> 
> Richw23



I hope it works alright, since I've already ordered it, lol. I'm pretty sure from a company video I watched, they said it was a 1.1 gain. I'm going the budget route now so I can see how it plays with my youngest son, and his curiosity and sticky fingers before I commit to a more expensive fixed screen.


Now here's a potential problem I encountered with this projector- while waiting for my replacement HDMI cable to arrive, I moved my BR player close enough to the projector to hook it up directly to it. In the course of moving the BR player around, I started getting some weird video noise, or static of some kind. It was grayish and would periodically flicker. I swapped out cables, but it still did it. Once I had it in place, it seemed to calm down. But I wanted to make sure it wasnt something chonic, so last night I sat down and watched Apocalypse Now, from start to finish, even though I was dead tired. Two things struck me- even though I desperately wanted to hit the rack, I was engaged through the whole movie. I guess an epic movie projected at 106" will do that, and second, the flickering noise never cropped up once. I hope it's somehow sorted itself out, because I really don't want the hassle of playing projector trade-in with Epson. Has anyone else encountered this problem? It's kinda got me concerned.


----------



## eyekode

Well the replacement the focus, zoom and shift mechanisms work very nicely!

But unfortunately convergence is pretty bad IMHO:

 


Also the rim of the lens has a dent it in and the front element was dirty







.

 


I will contact Epson and see what they say. Maybe third times the charm?


----------



## Vladmyr

I'm on my second 8350 and have noticed what i can only describe as a floating lens??? (First Projector, can you tell?) What i mean by this is I'll set up the zoom/lens shift so that the picture fills my 106" diag screen and the next day i'll notice that the picture has fallen about an inch or two down off the screen. The projector is shelf mounted on the back wall. The door to the room is also on that wall but seeing that the room is a dedicated room it doesn't get much use. (Meaning the door sending vibrations through the wall) I'm just wondering if anyone else is having picture shifting issues?


Thanks!


----------



## carp

I do when I cranking the bass to insane levels, when I do that I make sure I have a piece of tape on the up/down lens shift and I'm good to go.


----------



## Conspiracy*

Gravity + PJ ceiling mounted directly under the kitchen = Unwanted lens shift. Its no biggie, I just correct as needed.


I'd call myself one of the lucky ones I suppose, given this models issues. The only issue I run into is that rarely on startup I get an "iris error. Contact your local repair/dealer". Generally if I switch the power off and back on then fire it back up it goes away instantly.


Other than that, out of the box as a first time PJ owner I am thrilled with my purchase and my home made screen about a year later.


----------



## MississippiMan

Take the yellow Lens Packing Ring, trim it to a size that when replaced, will support the weight of the lens.


Great solution especially for Bass & Vibration heavy situations.


----------



## daninsd

I've gotten the auto-iris as well twice in two months but it also quickly goes away upon reboot. The rest of the projector is great. I was thinking of keeping the projector for a year to see if it continues and then trying the refurb.


Do the highly experienced folks on this thread agree with this approach or should I get a refurb now and wait for one that works all around?


Love this projector.


----------



## Vladmyr

Thanks all for the Reply and advice. MissMan, I was thinking along the same lines with the yellow packing ring solution. Will give it a try.


I bought my 8350 after reading much of this thread (still reading it, btw) so i knew full well what i was facing as far as problems but this projector offers so much in what i'm looking for for my first projector that i had to go for it. I'm very happy with the projector even after my first one gave me the Iris Error. I plan on simply exchanging it for another till i get a good one.


I got 2 more weeks on my 30 day exchange warranty left on this one and so far all i'm facing is the lens shift and a slight problem with "squaring" it off on the screen. I've got the lens as plum to the screen as i can and still have to adjust my left leg to get the picture square. Not a big issue, i believe i just got to "play" with it a bit more to get it right. Was searching the thread to see if anyone else had some wierd key stone'ng going on. My first 8350 lined up just fine so i'm a bit plexed.


Thanks again for all the help.


PS. daninsd - I'm thinking along the same lines as you as far as possible future problems so i'm interested in your reply's.


----------



## carp

The ring idea doesn't work as well for me since I zoom back and forth for 2:35:1, but it is a good idea if you don't.


----------



## daninsd

Agreed vladmyr! I too spent about six months reviewing tons of threads and knew what I was getting into. In the end, I still think I made the best choice for the money.


----------



## monkaquinas

So my first replacement projector developed the Auto Iris error in a matter of months. The panel alignment was nearly perfect on it but to clear the iris error it required 2 power off/ons. Also, these occured every couple of days in a week, which I consider to be more serious. I was sent a replacement last Friday and it arrived on Tuesday. I mounted the replacement and threw up the pattern to align it to the screen and noticed a narrow yellowing along the right side of the image. I threw in the Spears & Munsil disc and found the sharpness patttern and there was a serious panel alignment issue. I waited on hold for 30 mins and was sent up to Level 2 support and after a power cycle was told that a replacement would be shipped. They asked me to send the projector with the iris error and to use the proj with the panel issue until the 3rd replacement arrived. I'm glad it's a 2 year warranty and they are very quick to take your call. I'm hoping the 3rd replacement is QC'd better than this last one.


----------



## eyekode

Well the third one looks really nice! Good convergence, the lens focuses/zooms easily

, the shift mechanism mostly stays where I put it, etc. I have it projected on a DIY 105" blackout cloth screen from about 9 feet. The blacks are not amazing but they aren't too bad. Motion looks good. And it is bright enough to watch in a lit room although the image obviously suffers.


I cannot quite get the projected image perfectly square to the screen but that could very well be my screen.


So it took a couple tries but I am happy!

Salem


----------



## Vladmyr

LoL,


I'm in the same boat. I can't get it to fit quite right on my Blackout screen. My first projector i had no problems getting it "square on the screen". But I was totally baffled for about 48 hours. "Why can't i get this right!?" I laugh only because i remember i threw that screen together in my garage in no more than 30 mins. I'm pretty sure my screen isn't totally square and doesn't lay flush to the wall on all four corners. I built the screen as a temp screen untill my multi-format arrives from Monoprice so it'll work for me till then.


Enjoy your projector!

Vlad


----------



## F12Bwth

With the 8350 and the lens shift you have to make sure that the projector is PERFECTLY perpendicular to your screen's X and Z... IE if your screen is perfectly plum and level the projector needs to be perfectly plum and level.. Don't skew it in any way to point at the screen, up-down left or right.. Then use the lens shift to get it on there.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_22998267
> 
> 
> With the 8350 and the lens shift you have to make sure that the projector is PERFECTLY perpendicular to your screen's X and Z... IE if your screen is perfectly plum and level the projector needs to be perfectly plum and level.. Don't skew it in any way to point at the screen, up-down left or right.. Then use the lens shift to get it on there.



This was my problem. The projector was not perfectly square with the screen. The screen is turned out to be pretty square







.


----------



## mdmaiorano

Hey guys,


Got a weird problem with my 8350 I hope is an easy fix (and not worthy of a separate thread):


I have my projector hooked up to a receiver, with the receiver outputting a single hdmi line to the 8350. My problem comes to the way the projector is displaying the various input sources: The cable box, PS3, etc all look great with the image filling my 16x9 screen. However, the dedicated computer I have hooked up to it displays the image a bit smaller, with a consistent black border all the way around.


This isn't an aspect problem, as the image is still a crisp 16x9. It's just like the projector decides to display the computer hdmi image source a little bit smaller than any other hdmi source. Any ideas?


I realize it may be a video card issue, but was trying to go with the easiest fix and work backwards. Thanks for the help either way!


-Mike


----------



## bakesy

I tried out the Epson 8345 and I really liked it but noticed that it's not great with motion, esp. When watching some sports and with some movies as well.

How does the 8350 stand up to fast motion?


----------



## eyekode

Mike check your video card driver options. I know AMD provides an "overscan" setting. Increasing this will remove the black.

I am also curious what your resolution your computer is sending and what the 8350 is seeing.

Salem


----------



## tshepp

To me, I am just about a coin flip away after reading so many mixed reviews. The local Best Buy has an open box 8350 that I was really considering picking up but I just feel like an exchange is almost a gurantee with these things especially seeing as some are on their 5th or 6th unit, that is INSANE! I really don't know what to do but with a room that is 19ft deep and only has 6.5' ceilings, the lens shift and flexibility of this projector are almost perfect for me...what to do, what to do...


----------



## horseflesh

If you can exchange it til you get a good one, or just unwind the deal at Best Buy and get your money back, why not give it a try? I can tell you it is easy to set up and re-pack if you need to, so you should be able to evaluate it without wasting a lot of time.


EVERY piece of gear with a lot of users has a lot of horror stories. At some point, you have to pick an option.


Good luck!


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *horseflesh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23005993
> 
> 
> If you can exchange it til you get a good one, or just unwind the deal at Best Buy and get your money back, why not give it a try? I can tell you it is easy to set up and re-pack if you need to, so you should be able to evaluate it without wasting a lot of time.
> 
> 
> EVERY piece of gear with a lot of users has a lot of horror stories. At some point, you have to pick an option.
> 
> 
> Good luck!



Well I went ahead and bought the open item for 899. I also jumped on the ps3 sale they had so now I have the 8350 and new ps3 for less than a brand new 8350! Since my screen wont be ready for 3 weeks, what is the best way to test the convergence and everything to see if this unit has issues right off the bat? Sorry if that is a dumb question but I want to look into this right away.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23006740
> 
> 
> Well I went ahead and bought the open item for 899. I also jumped on the ps3 sale they had so now I have the 8350 and new ps3 for less than a brand new 8350! Since my screen wont be ready for 3 weeks, what is the best way to test the convergence and everything to see if this unit has issues right off the bat? Sorry if that is a dumb question but I want to look into this right away.



Shine it on a light colored wall and hook a laptop up to it at 1080 resolution. The text should be clear and easy to read. You can do more detailed tests too but this will show any serious convergence issue.

Salem


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23006740
> 
> 
> Well I went ahead and bought the open item for 899. I also jumped on the ps3 sale they had so now I have the 8350 and new ps3 for less than a brand new 8350! Since my screen wont be ready for 3 weeks, what is the best way to test the convergence and everything to see if this unit has issues right off the bat? Sorry if that is a dumb question but I want to look into this right away.



Yes, hooking up a computer is the way to go. Make sure all parts of the screen can get razor sharp at the same time. I've had a couple of units that I had to send back that would focus most of the screen just find but a corner was blurry.


----------



## frogpond1

Ok wife and I have had the 8350 for about a year and love it! While we've had pj's before this is miles ahead of anything previous BUT we do some daytime watching and light control can be an issue. Wife and I were starting to think about going to a flat screen but with so many choices, technologies, pros an cons, price points, etc it makes my head hurt and I don't want to be left thinking, "damn, I shouldn't have sold my Epson for a flatscreen".


So I started thinking. I know there are screens that can improve a pj's performance so maybe this is a solution? What we have now is an old Sanyo/Draper (came bundled with an old Sanyo pj), pull down 92" 16:9. What can be recommended that won't break the bank?


----------



## umairsemail




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23007660
> 
> 
> Ok wife and I have had the 8350 for about a year and love it! While we've had pj's before this is miles ahead of anything previous BUT we do some daytime watching and light control can be an issue. Wife and I were starting to think about going to a flat screen but with so many choices, technologies, pros an cons, price points, etc it makes my head hurt and I don't want to be left thinking, "damn, I shouldn't have sold my Epson for a flatscreen".
> 
> 
> So I started thinking. I know there are screens that can improve a pj's performance so maybe this is a solution? What we have now is an old Sanyo/Draper (came bundled with an old Sanyo pj), pull down 92" 16:9. What can be recommended that won't break the bank?



Yeah the 8350 is awful in any lighting. try to cover up your windows with a material that doesn't allow light to pass.


----------



## frogpond1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23007661
> 
> 
> Yeah the 8350 is awful in any lighting. try to cover up your windows with a material that doesn't allow light to pass.



Its better than anything we've ever had before thats for sure. I guess I could turn up the brightness during the day at the risk of burning through more bulbs which equals more money.


----------



## umairsemail

From my own experience, the clarity is much worse even when turned on full brightness in daytime as compared to the setting used in the dark/almost dark.


----------



## tshepp

From what I have read, getting a gray or higher gain screen will help with ambient lighting. A screen innovations black diamond would be great but that may be out of your range...do a little reading on higher gain screens.


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23007675
> 
> 
> From my own experience, the clarity is much worse even when turned on full brightness in daytime as compared to the setting used in the dark/almost dark.



Each situation is unique though, screen can make a huge difference.


----------



## Terry Mann




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frogpond1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7800_100#post_23007660
> 
> 
> Ok wife and I have had the 8350 for about a year and love it! While we've had pj's before this is miles ahead of anything previous BUT we do some daytime watching and light control can be an issue. Wife and I were starting to think about going to a flat screen but with so many choices, technologies, pros an cons, price points, etc it makes my head hurt and I don't want to be left thinking, "damn, I shouldn't have sold my Epson for a flatscreen".
> 
> 
> So I started thinking. I know there are screens that can improve a pj's performance so maybe this is a solution? What we have now is an old Sanyo/Draper (came bundled with an old Sanyo pj), pull down 92" 16:9. What can be recommended that won't break the bank?



Have an 8350 that I really like. Using a Draper Targa 119" screen with a Matt White XT1000E surface (gain of 1). At night all is wonderful and in bright light viewing is OK.


However I also have a LCD 50" TV in the same room. The Draper Targa 16 x 9 screen lacks 'pop' in comparison to the LCD. Is this just a fact of life or will another screen surface allow the 8350 image to gain the 'pop' of a LCD TV while retaining the fine resolution?


Thanks.


Terry


----------



## F12Bwth

 
__
https://www.reddit.com/r/17h816
​ Guy[/URL] spent a ton on this screen but the results are dramatic. He is running an 8350 and the screen cost twice as much.


----------



## mdmaiorano

My 2 cents on the screen: you can save a bunch of money if you have a completely dark space to use it. I have a dedicated basement theater room with no exterior windows and made my own screen using the bulk fabric available on ebay. Made a quick wooden frame, used a staple gun to stretch the fabric onto the frame, then hid the staples with 2" felt tape all the way around. Looks great and you'd never know it wasn't professional grade unless you got about 6 inches away and took a good hard look.


Just throwing it out there if budget is a concern and you have the right space for it...


Oh and back to my original question, eyekode was exactly correct. It was an overscan setting. Everything is perfect now.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23009227
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/17h816
> ​ Guy[/URL] spent a ton on this screen but the results are dramatic. He is running an 8350 and the screen cost twice as much.



They do sell 90" LCD's which is about the size of your screen but they cost 9k or so. The 80" ones can be picked up for ~3.3k. This is in the same ballpark as the black diamond and supernova screens.


I have decided to go for a mixed approach. I am keeping my 50" plasma for daylight viewing and setting up a 105"+ screen for movie night. Does the projector have the same black level as my plasma? No but the plasma has nowhere near the "wow" of a 100" screen!

Good luck!

Salem


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23009227
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/17h816
> ​ Guy[/URL] spent a ton on this screen but the results are dramatic. He is running an 8350 and the screen cost twice as much.



Try 3x as much. Even at the smallish size shown. At that size, and with adequate lumen delivered from a optimal throw, one cannot deny the end results, so don't anyone think I'm dissing the DNP in that regard


Have you seen the results we get from the DIY "Paint" application called Silver Fire? Under that circumstance, the various images shown below comes from a 8350, and the screens all cost 12x less than the DNP and 6x less than the PJ.


Which is more "livable"?


A few assorted examples:


98" diagonal circa 2009
 
 


ZERO Edge-style 110"er w/LCD Edge lighting / Epson 9350 circa 2010
 
 


110"er w/8350 :Note the color of the exposed Screen around the edges of the image:
 



92" diagonal w/8350
 


110"er w/8350
 


110"er w/8350 circa 2006
 
 


110"er w/8350 circa 2007
 
 


BTW, every screen shown is larger by a stretch than the DNP shown in the link.


OK...ok...I couldn't resist.







I have utilized the 8350 over 25 times, with almost no issues at all, and virtually ever case was in rooms designed not optimally, but "ergonomically" to fit the living demands of the Viewer. As such, the use of a surface that could be both a contrast enhancing surface and retain gain was called for, a Silver Fire delivers.


Now absolutely, the DNP Supernova is the Cream of the Crop. A Black diamond isn't in the same league, let alone running in the pack. That is why when any comparisons between Silver Fire are made to a Mfg Screen, the BD products get shouldered aside. Once again, not in the same League.


I say this because neither of the aforementioned Mfg screens represent the "performance for a value" characteristics of a Silver Fire screen. Yes, you can buy into the performance of a DNP, and as far as a Mfg Screen, get what you pay for. The BD? not so very much. However at the price a DNP costs, really only a relative few will spend $3K+ for a Screen to match up with a $1195.00 PJ.


On the AVS DIY Screen Forum, http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section we do a great job of reversing that equation. Judicious and common sense use of lighting, and a affordable PJ of a minimal requirement of performance levels can use a Silver Fire application and get spectacular results...for under $250.. including the Electric HVLP Gun needed to spray such a high performance coating. Everything else needed is also in there. Substrate (Drywall Wall or White Board or Mirror), 3/4 gallon of Silver Fire, Screen Trim w/Velvet (or not for a Zero Edge effect) and all the needed supplies. And you just know we are gonna help out any deserving DIY'er and make sure he nails is the first time around.


Right?










Put another way, why pay enough to have something that should come with an ignition key and you can drive to the store when you can accomplish the same thing on a "Skateboard" budget.


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23006897
> 
> 
> Shine it on a light colored wall and hook a laptop up to it at 1080 resolution. The text should be clear and easy to read. You can do more detailed tests too but this will show any serious convergence issue.
> 
> Salem



So, I got home, opened it up, and pointed it at the basement wall. For a textured and taupe colored wall I was pretty damn impressed out of the box. I made no adjustments other than focus. I used the test pattern that comes built into the unit and could see only a very slight issue with convergence (pictures below). I am assuming that not many come completely perfect but I'm just curious what the tolerance is? I am going to be building a Wilsonart laminate screen in the next month or so and then I will really be able to calibrate it. The red seems to be off about a pixel or two horizontal (above the letters) and the blue is off a pixel or two (below the letters)


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23011548
> 
> 
> So, I got home, opened it up, and pointed it at the basement wall. For a textured and taupe colored wall I was pretty damn impressed out of the box. I made no adjustments other than focus. I used the test pattern that comes built into the unit and could see only a very slight issue with convergence (pictures below). I am assuming that not many come completely perfect but I'm just curious what the tolerance is? I am going to be building a Wilsonart laminate screen in the next month or so and then I will really be able to calibrate it. The red seems to be off about a pixel or two horizontal (above the letters) and the blue is off a pixel or two (below the letters)



Mine that I deemed defective was much worse. About 7 pixels off. Another thing you could test is to watch some animated movie. Where there is strong contrast like between a field of black and white. If the convergence is very bad it will be blurred and non distinct and probably have a strong green or purple shadow. I like this test because staring at test patterns you get stuck chasing flaws that you don't see in real use.


But If you want to quantify exactly the convergence error you can google for a test pattern. White grid lines on a black background works well.


I have heard all 3 panel projectors will have sone degree of misconvergence due to alignment errors between the panels. Only technologies like DLP will be perfect in this sense. But of course DLP suffers from other issues like RBE.


Good luck!

Salem


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terry Mann*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23008258
> 
> 
> Have an 8350 that I really like. Using a Draper Targa 119" screen with a Matt White XT1000E surface (gain of 1). At night all is wonderful and in bright light viewing is OK.
> 
> 
> However I also have a LCD 50" TV in the same room. The Draper Targa 16 x 9 screen lacks 'pop' in comparison to the LCD. Is this just a fact of life or will another screen surface allow the 8350 image to gain the 'pop' of a LCD TV while retaining the fine resolution?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Terry



I'm very happy with how my screen looks with the lights all the way up, in fact I usually watch sports this way. I have a 8350 and a 124" screen with the masking panels in for 16:9, and 158" with the panels out for 2:35:1.


My screen is a painted wall. I've seen the 8350 on real screens and I prefer how mine looks in my room. I don't know if I'm in the sweet spot for throw distance or what, but it looks great.


My camera is crap, the image looks much sharper than in pictures.



 




Here is a close up with lights all the way up:

 



Here is lights off, obviously better but you might be surprised how good it looks with the lights on. Once again though, I've seen other rooms with 8350's that don't look as good with the lights on so I don't know if it' my throw distance, painted wall, or what. Maybe my lights are in a better spot too.


----------



## uncola

Epson is a great company, my bulb is going dark prematurely and they are doing a one time exception and sending me a replacement







had the projector for 12 months so it's well over the 90 day lamp warranty. I came close to ordering a cheap knockoff lamp replacement on amazon, but I'm glad I called epson now


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23012237
> 
> 
> Mine that I deemed defective was much worse. About 7 pixels off. Another thing you could test is to watch some animated movie. Where there is strong contrast like between a field of black and white. If the convergence is very bad it will be blurred and non distinct and probably have a strong green or purple shadow. I like this test because staring at test patterns you get stuck chasing flaws that you don't see in real use.
> 
> 
> But If you want to quantify exactly the convergence error you can google for a test pattern. White grid lines on a black background works well.
> 
> 
> I have heard all 3 panel projectors will have sone degree of misconvergence due to alignment errors between the panels. Only technologies like DLP will be perfect in this sense. But of course DLP suffers from other issues like RBE.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Salem



I do feel like I am looking for the flaw with this, of course it is shown that there is a pixel or two off but these pictures were taken at 6" from the wall. Unfortunately, I do not have a white screen yet so I am still shooting it at a Taupe painted wall but watching a few Youtube HD videos has been awesome. Tonight I am going to wire up the surround system and watch a few clips (it really sucks watching clips with no sound) Thanks for the feedback


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23014091
> 
> 
> I do feel like I am looking for the flaw with this



I have high index lenses to correct for near-sightedness (I think they are 1.67 index lenses with something around -5.5 if I remember right) in my eyeglasses. The 3010 has a panel alignment feature (unlockable from maintenance menu, that I just found on this forum last week) where it will let you adjust the pixel alignment of the different panels. After I went through aligning the panels (they were off maybe 1/2-1pixel at the most from any color in any of the 4 corners), I realized when looking at some test images from my viewing location instead of 1' from the screen that my eyeglasses were causing a much greater red/blue "shift" than from the projector's initial minor misalignments...


It's an interesting fact that High Index lenses cause distortion when looking through the edges of the lens (I was aware of this, but hadn't considered it before adjusting the projector). Perfectly spherical lenses,as opposed to high-index, aren't supposed to have this color-shift effect but they would be heavier, thicker, and more concave/convex. If I look at something "white" with a black edge to the left of it, such as a computer monitor, when looking through center of the lens I see black and white bordering each other. If I look through the right side of a single lens, I see blue to the left of the white area. If I look through the left side I see red to the left of the white. Similar for looking through upper/lower portion of lenses with up/down shift of red/blue. If you have high index lenses and weren't aware of this, you should try it, it's an interesting effect -- although maybe it will distract you more sometimes...


Actually I ended up using the test images to use the projector's alignment features to compensate for my eyeglass lenses' imperfection but I really don't notice much difference in sharpness afterwards.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JustAnEE*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23014309
> 
> 
> 
> The 3010 has a panel alignment feature (unlockable from maintenance menu, that I just found on this forum last week) where it will let you adjust the pixel alignment of the different panels.


Interesting. It would make sense to have a way to make an (electronic or digital) adjustment.

 

How do we access the Service Mode Menu on the 8350?

 

The alignment on my 8350 is fine. I understand the 3010 (and others in that series) are newer tech, but it wouldn't hurt to take a peak.


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23014378
> 
> 
> How do we access the Service Mode Menu on the 8350?


I don't know if there is such a feature, sorry, maybe someone else would know for sure. The 5010 (and the 3020/5020, etc) have the panel alignment option available by default but someone posted in the forum here how to enable it also on the 3010, where it is not available by default.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7830#post_23014091
> 
> 
> 
> so I am still shooting it at a Taupe painted wall


Light beige wall should be fine.

 

Try something 1080p. Either Blu-ray or 1080 MKV. VLC Player will work if you don't have anything better (like XBMC).


----------



## umairsemail

How does the BenQ w1070 compare to the 8350 in just 2D?


----------



## PappaSmurf

Mine seems to be doing the samething... Going to call them myself so was wondering what kinda question routine do they make you go through before they decide to send out a new bulb etc... was it a hassle etc... Thanks


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurf*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23018926
> 
> 
> Mine seems to be doing the samething... Going to call them myself so was wondering what kinda question routine do they make you go through before they decide to send out a new bulb etc... was it a hassle etc... Thanks



I had to call twice to get my bulb replaced. First person said 90 day lamp warranty only.... Second was aware they match the warranty of the projector (2yr), and sent me one even though it was ~29months. If you get a rep that starts out saying only cover lamp for 90 days, just hang up and call back. This was before I even gave the projector serial number/name/anything. It was very easy to get the bulb replaced with the second person I talked to, although it took a few attempts of "can you make an exception" because it was past 24months.


However, I now have a red band on top and blue on bottom, which they can't repair/replace since it's past 24months.... I'm working on DIY fix attempts when I have time or considering maybe a new PJ.


----------



## bakesy

I compared BenQ W1070 to the 8345 (essentially same as 8350).

BenQ has less motion blur but noticebly less bright compared to 8345.

The 8345 was very easy to situate with the lens shift.

Ultimately decided on Optoma HD33: very bright and very little motion blur.


----------



## fhorrigan

As others have reported - the bulb on my 8350 recently failed prematurely (960 hrs) and Epson agreed to replace it. The Epson rep went over several conditions that could have contributed to early bulb failure, and recommended changes to my setup and operating procedures. Some of these changes would be undesirable, inconvenient or seem to contradict general projector advice I’ve read in searching these and other forums. So I would like to get your opinions, especially as they apply to this particular projector.

*(1) Clearance & temperature:* my projector is hanging from a ceiling mount with at least 5 feet clearance on all sides except the rear, which is ~4 inches from the wall. The rep said I need at least 2 feet in the rear. From what I’ve read, 2 feet seems excessive for an air intake, especially since there are no obstructions to the top/bottom or sides. I also never saw the temperature warning light go on before the bulb failed. I can potentially move the projector a few inches more away from the wall and still fill my screen. But I would have to radically change my setup to get 2 feet clearance. How much clearance is really necessary?


A related question is, if cooling is a concern, would it help to point a room fan at the projector? The reason I ask is I suspect room temperature rather than air flow through the projector could be a concern. I live in Houston where it gets very hot and humid in the Summer. I usually set the A/C at 78 F under those conditions, which reduces humidity without putting excessive strain on the AC. But I’ve noticed that my laptop can sometime overheat under those conditions (with internal fans at maximum speed and unobstructed) unless I place it under a ceiling fan. Is 78 F too hot?

*(2) Cycling projector on/off* - I normally turn on my projector continuously for 2-5 hrs (to watch one or two movies). The Epson rep said I shouldn’t run it continuously, but rather should turn it off between movies and wait at least 30-60 min before turning it back on. He seemed to be suggesting that it would put more stress on the bulb to be running hot for more than ~2 hrs at a time, and that the projector wasn’t designed to be run continuously. But my understanding is that each time you start the lamp you are shorting the bulb life by 30 min – 2 hr (depending on which post I read), and it is therefore best to avoid cycling the projector on and off unless you know you won’t be using it for an hour or two. Who’s right?


----------



## David James

Thanks fhorrigan for that post. Requiring 2 feet behind the projector really screws up the idea of a rear wall shelf mount, which was one of the reasons the 8350 is on my short list. Unless of course I build a 3' plus rear shelf


----------



## fhorrigan

David, I should mention the user manual for the 8350 is rather vague on this point stating only:

*"Make sure there is plenty of space for ventilation around and under the projector. Do not

set the projector on top of loose materials that could block the vents underneath."*


I wasn't able to find any clearer statement on the Epson website. Therefore I am wondering if the rep was just giving me a "definitely safe" recommendation rather than something that is actually required.


----------



## F12Bwth

2 hours and then off for 1 hour.. I don't think so. If that is their advice they best be prepared for a lot of people switching companies next time around.


----------



## carp

Yeah, that's ridiculous. I run mine for 10+ hours at a time every once in awhile with no problems yet. I bought a back up lamp that I'm using now in case I have an issue.


----------



## mastermaybe

The biggest joke: what constitutes "running it hot"?


Surely the lamp is up to its normal operating temp within 5-10 minutes?


What a joke.


James


----------



## Sheridan1952

"Projector not designed to run continuously"? Tell that to all the sports bars running their projectors 16/7.


----------



## fhorrigan

Thanks for the comments. I know projectors are capable of running continuously. My question is whether running continuously (vs intermittently) reduces bulb life. I suspect maximizing bulb life is not the main concern at a sports bar. But I agree with the comment that the bulb has probably reached a steady operating temperature by 5-10 minutes, so it's unclear why running continuously should be a problem. That said, I've seen several posts on various websites claiming that procedures like 2 hr ON 1 hr OFF or giving the projector "a rest" prolongs bulb life. So I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. The only thing that I can think of is that running continuously might allow other components in the projector to slowly overheat and indirectly reduce bulb life(?). But maybe it's just an urban myth or Epson wants an excuse in case the bulb fails again.


Any comments on my clearance & cooling questions?


----------



## eyekode

The thing I don't understand about the 8350 is when you turn it off the fan only runs for a few seconds. Is this normal for a HT projector? With business projectors they run for quite some time after you turn them off to prolong bulb life!


----------



## fhorrigan

I wonder if this is why Epson recommended a 2 hr ON cycle:
*"Lamp life is measured to industry standards, specifying a 2 hours on and 15 minutes off cycle."*

(from http://www.birdvilleschools.net/tims/techsvcs/resources/pdf/Projector.Care.pdf )


I guess it would be safe to recommend that if I follow the standard bulb testing procedure then I should get the rated lifetime. Of course I wasn't expecting to use this as an expensive bulb testing machine. And it still doesn't answer the question whether there is any disadvantage to running continuously for longer periods.


I notice the same reference also says regarding clearance *"Keep the exhaust vent at least 2 feet from any object"*. But that is not a problem in my setup since the 8350 exhaust is in the front of the projector. There is no similar clearance recommendation for the intake, just _*"Do not obstruct the air intake or exhaust vent. Nothing should obstruct the air flow to the vents."*_ I have yet to find a reference that says how close the intake can be from a wall before it obstructs air flow.


----------



## qwertypo

Got a new 8350.


Just watched 2 movies on it. Looks great. Big improvement over my last DLP system.


So I just noticed that the LAMP HOURS says 0.


I went into the Service Menu and it says 4.


Whats the deal? Anyone seen this issue before?


----------



## fhorrigan

I don't know how the service menu works. But having just replaced my bulb today I know that the manual says after reseting the timer that:

"the lamp usage timer shows 0H until you've used the lamp for at least 10 hours"


----------



## umairsemail

My image is a bit unclear (friends have commented).


Could the throw distance of 18 feet for a 92 inch screen be too much??


It's firmly connected to the ceiling (had pros do it).


----------



## qwertypo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhorrigan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23029299
> 
> 
> I don't know how the service menu works. But having just replaced my bulb today I know that the manual says after reseting the timer that:
> 
> "the lamp usage timer shows 0H until you've used the lamp for at least 10 hours"



Thanks.... I guess they did that so you can fire it up and return it? So a test fired projector in the factory looks "new" when purchased? I'll check in once I have exceeded 10hr is if it is still showing zip. Picture is great. i wish I had more detail in the blacks, but the picture is outstanding on all other measurements.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23030212
> 
> 
> My image is a bit unclear (friends have commented).
> 
> 
> Could the throw distance of 18 feet for a 92 inch screen be too much??
> 
> 
> It's firmly connected to the ceiling (had pros do it).



Yes...about as far as possible. Obviously you had a reason...but too bad somebody didn't ,"reason" you out of that. 


Too often peoplw (even Installers) place PJs in inappropriate locations for convience, which is lazy. If done out of necessity...then it siply amounts to being unfortunate.


As for the lack of claity, I think your issue lies in the Screen surface. Distance and the resulting loss in lumen (foot lambert) can affect the rendering of detail. The 8350 has a good set of optics, so the issue has to lie with the signal source or screen surface.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23030212
> 
> 
> My image is a bit unclear (friends have commented).
> 
> 
> Could the throw distance of 18 feet for a 92 inch screen be too much??
> 
> 
> It's firmly connected to the ceiling (had pros do it).



Bad convergence or misfocus can cause softness. I doubt it is the distance but it would be easy to tell. Hold up something closer to the projector and focus on it. Is it sharper?

Salem


----------



## umairsemail




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23030611
> 
> 
> Bad convergence or misfocus can cause softness. I doubt it is the distance but it would be easy to tell. Hold up something closer to the projector and focus on it. Is it sharper?
> 
> Salem



Lol I don't have a giant wall that I can hold up in front of it.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23031108
> 
> 
> Lol I don't have a giant wall that I can hold up in front of it.



A piece of paper and a willing helper should be enough to judge sharpness.


----------



## umairsemail

I definitely don't have convergence tho


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23030212
> 
> 
> My image is a bit unclear (friends have commented).
> 
> 
> Could the throw distance of 18 feet for a 92 inch screen be too much??


 

I am at 18 ft. from wall/screen = (96" or 8ft diag. image) . My picture is good.

 

Are you using HDMI? What source material? Try at night. Try at normal/full power. What screen? Focus knob is very sensitive and exact. Is front of lense parallel to screen surface?


----------



## umairsemail

Hdmi

Standard 92 inch elite screens fixed

It is better at night

Parallel


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umairsemail*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7860#post_23032121
> 
> 
> Hdmi
> 
> Standard 92 inch elite screens fixed
> 
> It is better at night
> 
> Parallel


Ok and the rest?

 

ECO mode works fine at night, but I run Normal/Full instead ... on Cinema.

 

Source material? Try real 1080p (newer release) BD in real Blu-Ray player.


----------



## Smidget

Is there a post or two with the most recommended settings? Just moved and set it up in a basement room and now need to configure for it...


----------



## tshepp

  
 


Here are 2 more images taken up close. I notice the pixels and the slight convergence misalignment up close but from 12 feet away I think it looks good.


----------



## jmoakk

I've had it with Epson. They just sent me two replacements in a row that are worse off than the one I'm trying to replace. First unit had a green overcast down the entire left boarder of the screen. Second unit has four dust blobs.


They clearly just receive rma units and slap a new bulb in them and send them right back out as refurbished units.


One of the main reason I purchased this projector was because of the 2 year warranty. However, what good is a two year warranty if you can't get a decent replacement?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23046262
> 
> 
> I've had it with Epson. They just sent me two replacements in a row that are worse off than the one I'm trying to replace. First unit had a green overcast down the entire left boarder of the screen. Second unit has four dust blobs.
> 
> 
> They clearly just receive rma units and slap a new bulb in them and send them right back out as refurbished units.
> 
> 
> One of the main reason I purchased this projector was because of the 2 year warranty. However, what good is a two year warranty if you can't get a decent replacement?


Thanks for posting but it pains me to read this. I wonder if we should start tracking serial numbers?

 

I hope you get a working (or new) unit soon.

 

I'm sure you don't want to mess with it, but if the convergence is good on #2, I've read that dust-blobs are not hard to clean out (if you know how to work on machines like this).


----------



## tshepp

I'm surprised that Epson doesn't have another fix for this if there are that many constantly coming back. I am still kind of worried about premature bulb failure in my unit. I noticed, like everyone else, that this has an extremely short cool down time. I would think that Epson would come out with new firmware to address this and possibly increase the cool down time and other specs. My unit is only a few weeks old and the only thing I notice is up close the convergence is off by about 2 pixels and screen door effect is only visible from 6 inches away. I am going to have a laminate screen in a few weeks so I will really be able to dial it in. Is there ANY way to adjust the red or blue from being off or do you think my pictures above arent really an issue to worry about??


----------



## jmoakk

Well I called Epson today and they claim they will have a unit shipped directly to them first and will test it before shipping it out to me.


I'll let you guy's know how that turns out.


----------



## David James

I know at this price point there will be compromises. This projector is on my short list, primarily due to the combination of value, picture quality and placement flexibility. I also know that forums tend to accentuate the extremes (best projector ever/this thing sucks) so I try to read them accordingly.


I've had very good luck with refurbished equipment over the years and am considering a 8350 refurb. Has anyone here purchased a refurb unit and if so from where ( I found them at Epson and VisualApex both for $899).


Has anyone seen any documented reliability differences with the 8350 production runs over the years? If they have made h/w or firmware changes I'd like to make sure the refurb I get is from the best run.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


I'd bought mine in Nov 2011 and really liked it!  If you read back you'll see mine became plagued with the Auto-Iris issue and had them send a replacement.  They were unclear if it'd be new or refurb and given the months that had passed they sent a refurb unit with a new bulb.  I've been very pleased with my refurb and given the history I explained would not hesitate from buying one from Epson - at $899 it saves a few bucks and you may wind up owning a refurb in a few months anyway!

 

Let me be clear: the unit I received has much better convergence than the one I purchased NEW - luck of the draw, maybe.  I'm very pleased with their customer service and the image I watch every day!  I'm 13' back throwing a 125" diagonal on a Bear Super White flat wall.


----------



## jmoakk

[/quote]


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23046358
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting but it pains me to read this. I wonder if we should start tracking serial numbers?
> 
> 
> I hope you get a working (or new) unit soon.
> 
> 
> I'm sure you don't want to mess with it, but if the convergence is good on #2, I've read that dust-blobs are not hard to clean out (if you know how to work on machines like this).



I was cleaning my previous units but decided I shouldn't have too. I was just amazed that they sent me a unit with dust blobs when I was trying to return my unit for the same issue. This isn't the first time I've had to return my unit. This is actually about the 7th time now including three units that arrived defective. I've had issues with yellow overcast, auto iris errors, and dust blobs. Not to mention I never even checked the convergence on any of my units.


I promise you I am not picky and take great care of all my equipment. My living room is far from dusty and I clean around the projector and the filter on a regular basis. This is actually the only piece of hardware I have ever owned that I needed to return for warranty issues.


If anyone wants to check their projectors for dust blobs try this. Turn off the lights and select a blank source input (HDMI 1 or 2 ) so you have a black screen. Start adjusting the focus until you can see any colored specs. You will be amazed at all the dust particles. The dust really isn't an issue till you get a larger piece that can be seen during normal viewing.


----------



## F12Bwth

Have you tried just cleaning the dust blobs off? There was a post on here showing the internals and how simple it was a few pages back. Normally I would be nervous opening up a unit like this but there is so much free space and easy access I would consider that if dust blobs really became an issue.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23053217
> 
> 
> Have you tried just cleaning the dust blobs off? There was a post on here showing the internals and how simple it was a few pages back. Normally I would be nervous opening up a unit like this but there is so much free space and easy access I would consider that if dust blobs really became an issue.



Yes, I was cleaning my previous projector until I got an auto iris issue. I'll probably end up cleaning my current unit if the next unit from Epson is still defective.


----------



## carp

We should copy that dust blob cleaning post more often, I've seen it multiple times but always end up losing track of it. Does anyone know where it is?


----------



## jmoakk

Well I got my replacement in. It came with a signed note stating they tested it.


I ran my test for dust, not a single spec to be found. Kudos to them for actually cleaning this one.


I'll check the convergence later and let you guy's know how good it is.


----------



## tshepp

Well I hit 60 hours today and got the auto iris error on startup. I shut it down reset the power and it went away. I think Im right at my 30 day return window...I really hope this doesn't become an issue


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23060475
> 
> 
> Well I hit 60 hours today and got the auto iris error on startup. I shut it down reset the power and it went away. I think Im right at my 30 day return window...I really hope this doesn't become an issue



Are you using the auto iris? I turned mine off as it was a little noisy and didn't seem to help the picture. I hope this will avoid the iris issue all together?

Salem


----------



## tshepp

I turned auto iris to off as soon as I unboxed the unit on day 1. I was just hoping I might get a unit that didnt have issues.


----------



## RTROSE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200_100#post_22130851
> 
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.
> 
> 
> Step 1
> 
> Take out the 2 screws circled in red, then flip the projector upside down.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/aZcEHh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> Step 2
> 
> Remove the next twelve screws circled in red.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/IXD8eh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 3
> 
> Gently remove the side as shown in the picture. Once you are this far, you need to sort of push it down to disengage the top clips. This is by far the most annoying part of the whole process, be really careful here and do not force anything too much. You can also try flipping the projector right side up to try and wedge this off that way (it might actually be a little easier like this)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/J87z2h.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the top clips here, and also the ribbon cable connecting to the 'Menu' panel.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/oGTKKh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> Step 4
> 
> With the projector right side up, gently lift off the top casing. This comes off really easily, just be careful of the ribbon cable that is connected.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/RsdDih.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> Step 5
> 
> Locate the three ribbons that have the words RED, GREEN and BLUE on them.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k8wMBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> They look like this:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hjBgBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 6
> 
> Spray compressed air as shown in the pictures. (Do all three ribbons just for good measure) I used up a 250ml can while doing this. Try and keep the can as vertical as possible in order to avoid any liquid/moisture coming out of the can. Give it a couple of test sprays before putting it near your projector. You could also get someone to hold the projector on its side while spraying in order to keep the can as upright as possible .
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qdtxzh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Rx5WSh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 7
> 
> Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.
> 
> 
> Good luck!



Here you go.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## carp

Nice - thanks!!!


----------



## detroit1

I have had the 8350 for about 16 months now; 1350 hours


was using Cinema 1 mode and getting nice picture, recently getting a dimmer picture not as good


I switched modes to living roon and turn down the brightness control ; looks better but still does not seem exactly right


like if I am watching a basketball game the players uniforms are not as vivid as they should be


also, 1350 hours is not a lot; seems strange that the bulb would be that much dimmer now.


I have iris off and bulb in normal mode at this point


I guess I should call epson about this


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23067488
> 
> 
> I have had the 8350 for about 16 months now; 1350 hours
> 
> 
> was using Cinema 1 mode and getting nice picture, recently getting a dimmer picture not as good
> 
> 
> I switched modes to living roon and turn down the brightness control ; looks better but still does not seem exactly right
> 
> 
> like if I am watching a basketball game the players uniforms are not as vivid as they should be
> 
> 
> also, 1350 hours is not a lot; seems strange that the bulb would be that much dimmer now.
> 
> 
> I have iris off and bulb in normal mode at this point
> 
> 
> I guess I should call epson about this



If it rapidly dimmed, just wait a couple days and the bulb will likely fail -- This happened to me both times (hopefully before your 24 months is up). Then you can call and they should send you a new bulb. I don't think there's any reason they'd do anything if it's just dimmer, as that's normal and expected for the bulb to become dimmer with use. If it just gradually dimmed over time, then it could just be the way it's supposed to be. Bulbs get dimmer than when they are first used. (30%? 50%? I don't know a good % to state here)


----------



## JediSpork

The lens shift seems to move a little on my unit. I have to re-adjust every weekend. Its also challenging getting it to stay where I want for that session in the first place. However it seems to work well for the most part so I'm not sure if I would want to replace with something that could have more problems.


I am thinking about going with something else too so does anyone know if there is a way to carry the warranty over if I sell it?


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JediSpork*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23073277
> 
> 
> The lens shift seems to move a little on my unit. I have to re-adjust every weekend. Its also challenging getting it to stay where I want for that session in the first place. However it seems to work well for the most part so I'm not sure if I would want to replace with something that could have more problems.
> 
> 
> I am thinking about going with something else too so does anyone know if there is a way to carry the warranty over if I sell it?



I cut off the end of the yellow foam ring that came package with the projector and shoved it under the lens. It prevents the lens from moving by itself.


Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## JediSpork




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmoakk*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23073634
> 
> 
> I cut off the end of the yellow foam ring that came package with the projector and shoved it under the lens. It prevents the lens from moving by itself.



thank you!


----------



## detroit1

when you put the projector in dynamic mode, does anyone know how much it cranks up the individual picture settings? I know all those modes are just memories with different settings


right now , in my case dynamic looks poor , not accurate but you do get more lumens and brighter color so I might used that mode and then start turning down the individual picture controls


----------



## nagoy

Following the recent posts about heat concerns, I wanted to get some feedback about placement of my new 8350. My viewing room is quite small, 12'x20'-something, and because of the room layout I have to have my screen (DIY BoC) along the longer wall. In order to fill a 96" width 16:9 screen I decided to place the PJ in an adjacent room, with a hole through which the image will project. This allows me a full 12' throw, actually a little more.


But I am concerned about cooling, (a) since the enclosure the PJ is in is a closet of my office (but I do always leave its doors open) and (b) since the front of the PJ's vent outlet is quite close to the wall, perhaps 3"-4" away (there should be ample room from the rear air intake, where the air filter is). Here is a quick pic of the closet that the PJ will be installed, just to help paint the picture:

 


The hole will be a few inches larger than shown, it's not quite big enough here.


I was planning on adding a computer fan (standard 120mm or perhaps a larger 200mm) beneath the PJ (I think it will be sitting on a wire type shelf), which I expect to help. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on this idea? In some ways it's not much different to using a really big hush box, is it?


One other question I just thought of: I have not tried auto-iris so far (I'm still getting everything set up, and I'm itching to be able to start watching movies!), but does it work using some kind of sensor? I only saw the IR receiver on the front, so in addition to the hot air outlet, I don't want to be blocking anything else important on the front of the PJ.


Thx!


PS Just to add, the viewing room is completely light controlled, so I should be able to use economy mode all the time (in case this is relevant for heat levels).


PPS. I did consider making the opening even wider so that the hot air vent could actually vent into the viewing room (actually it would have to be two holes, one for the lens and one for the vent, since the stud spacing would limit a single hole to max ~14.5" width). Double the number of holes is not ideal cosmetically, but if it provides a much better solution to any other options, I would probably be Ok with that.


----------



## Scaffold

I just got my 8350 refurb last night (my first PJ) and am stoked. Convergence doesn't appear to be an issue but after a while I did notice a green/yellow overcast down the left vertical edge of the screen. I only had one pic on my phone so I apologize it's not the greatest but you can definitely see what I'm talking about in the picture below. I'm hesitant to do an exchange already since I haven't had any iris, dust blob or convergence problems but I feel like this will continue to bother me even though I'll only see it if I stare at the edge during a bright scene.


Thoughts?


----------



## JustAnEE

That edge of the image is very near the part of your wall that sticks out, and seems like it might be some light reflecting back onto the picture? Try zooming out (smaller) or shifting to the right and see if the yellow is still there?


----------



## Scaffold

Wow JustAnEE I hadn't even thought of that! Now that you mention it that would make sense. I can definitely notice that the light is being reflected from that 2-3inch piece of wall that juts out so hopefully that's all it is. I'll be shifting the image to the right as soon as I get home tonight, I'm very optimistic now! Thanks!!










*UPDATE:* Uh oh I spoke too soon. Here's the only other pic I had taken and you can definitely tell that the left edge is still tinted a bit and this time it's zoomed in a bit and nowhere near that far left wall:


----------



## JustAnEE

d'oh! sorry that wasn't the cause, thought it was worth checking at least though. Sorry for getting you unnecessarily optimistic.


----------



## F12Bwth

Looks like an alignment issue. Unfortunately not fixable on our end. Call Epson and tell them what is going on.


----------



## jmoakk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scaffold*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23079402
> 
> 
> Wow JustAnEE I hadn't even thought of that! Now that you mention it that would make sense. I can definitely notice that the light is being reflected from that 2-3inch piece of wall that juts out so hopefully that's all it is. I'll be shifting the image to the right as soon as I get home tonight, I'm very optimistic now! Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE:* Uh oh I spoke too soon. Here's the only other pic I had taken and you can definitely tell that the left edge is still tinted a bit and this time it's zoomed in a bit and nowhere near that far left wall:



What's the serial number on that unit? I swear I just refused a refurbished unit epson tried to send me about a week ago with the same issue.


Maybe one of these two?


NP3F130413L

NP3F181240L


----------



## Scaffold

Jmoakk heres my serial, not a match but good idea. Might as well post mine which is about to get sent back.


NP3F192049L


----------



## Project H

What is the best ceiling mount that you guys recommend for this PJ? Also do you recommend putting a cover on the PJ when it's not in use to prevent dust blob etc?


----------



## RTROSE

I recommend the Chief mount for this PJ. It is pricey, but it is well made and nicely engineered and will give you many years of service without issue. I bought mine from Projector People (a forum sponsor) they were very good to deal with. To answer your other question, I don't cover my PJ when it is not in use. I think most of the dust blob issues comes from the PJ sucking in dirty air when it's running, not by what settles on it when its not running, unless there is a lot of build up on the intake between uses, then I would suggest just wiping it off before turning it on. I have not had any issues thus far.


Regards,


RTROSE


----------



## Project H

What specific model for the chief mounts? Is that the main one ppl recommend??


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23092970
> 
> 
> What specific model for the chief mounts? Is that the main one ppl recommend??



There are countless projector mounts with the prices ranging from less than $20 to over $100. There are two premier projector mount companies that are recommended again and again, one is the Chief (already mentioned) and the other is Peerless.


I recommend the Peerless PRG-UNV for its quality and unique features.

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G


----------



## detroit1

I just got my new bulb today.


I was using Eco mode and Cinema 1 and the bulb went out after 1350 hours


now on the new lamp, I am using normal lamp mode and normal pic mode


I was curious about what lamp mode most people are using with this projector


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23093804
> 
> 
> There are countless projector mounts with the prices ranging from less than $20 to over $100. There are two premier projector mount companies that are recommended again and again, one is the Chief (already mentioned) and the other is Peerless.
> 
> 
> I recommend the Peerless PRG-UNV for its quality and unique features.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G



Thanks for the info. I know there are a lot of mounts out there that's why I wanted to get the one with the best feedback. Thanks for the info. I'll look into both these mounts. I'm ok with spending up to 150 on the mount.


----------



## Project H

Btw in what use cases would an extension pole be necessary?


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23097271
> 
> 
> Btw in what use cases would an extension pole be necessary?



In the case of an LCD projector like the 8350 you would need an extension pole if the range of the vertical lens shift was exceeded. For example if you had the projector mounted flush to the ceiling and the screen was placed so low on the wall that the vertical lens shift couldn't put the image fully on the screen you would have to drop the projector with an extension pole. Of course another cure would be to raise the screen if possible or desirable.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23097271
> 
> 
> Btw in what use cases would an extension pole be necessary?



I bought this mount http://www.visualapex.com/accessories/accessory_details.asp?Accessory_Type=Projector_Ceiling_Mount&chPartNumber=AV-813U&MFR=VisualApex to lower my projector to the sweet spot as I have high ceilings. It was inexpensive, very sturdy and bolted right up. Highly recommended.

 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23095947
> 
> 
> I just got my new bulb today.
> 
> 
> I was using Eco mode and Cinema 1 and the bulb went out after 1350 hours
> 
> 
> now on the new lamp, I am using normal lamp mode and normal pic mode
> 
> 
> I was curious about what lamp mode most people are using with this projector



Curious, did Epson ask to have the defective lamp returned?


----------



## detroit1

no they did not tell me to return it. What would they do with it? It was dead


----------



## Duke Broadway

Hey Guys,


For those of you with a HTPC connected to the 8350. I just build my first HTPC. I am having problems with to much overscan compared to my blu-ray, and xbox. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23099560
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> For those of you with a HTPC connected to the 8350. I just build my first HTPC. I am having problems with to much overscan compared to my blu-ray, and xbox. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this?



Does the Video card Software allow full customization of Resolution output?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23097271
> 
> 
> Btw in what use cases would an extension pole be necessary?



Vaulted Ceilings......some might be quite high ! 8350 at 12' high.

 



.....really, if by "pole" you simply mean a "solid pole" assembly over 8" like the square channel variety shown, the sole purpose is to bring the Projector within a specified required height / position in relationship with the "Top Edge" of the Screen.


The 8350 has a range of Vertical Shift that ranks among the largest in the Industry...if not indeed "the" largest. Almost 2 full Picture heights (...if the Lens is approx. centered on the screen...) So in many cases, Lens Shift can do the job of positioning the Image on / within the Screen's parameters while the PJ can be optimally placed for "cosmetic reasons". Up....and away.


But that represents a perfect world.situations. Ceilings that are 12' to 14' high are not tractable locations for placement if only because even routine maintenance chores become issues. Almost every PJ on any Ceiling has what constitutes as a "drop". be it 3" or 30".

 
 
 


The examples I show use 1.5" i.d. Schedule 40 PVC and Threaded Couplings to match up with a Mount that also has a 1.5 " NPT Threaded Hole.


If you gotta "drop" any distance at all, being able to hide the HDMI / 110 ac supply line in a real "Tube" makes for a clean, attractive installation that almost any Wife can wrap herself around.


.......and I'm talkin' "Tube"...not Pole.










Does it take a bit more effort? Yeah...but it looks so good. Does it cost a little bit more? Yeah....but for about $60-$70.00 more, it looks so good. Can just about anyone do it? Absolutely....I do.










When budget PJs are in play, many cannot / do not want to spend 1/10th the amount of a PJ on a higher quality Mount. And the market is full of Mounts for 39.95 to 69.95 that are simply sections of Steel Channel, Nuts & Bolts.


They are not attractive. Have no Cable management to speak of. But it's a testimonial to how badly people want the "Big Picture" that as far as gettin' the thing hung....anything that works is just alright.










.......until the Significant "Other" throws a fit!










That's why I roll like I do.







A clean installation simply eliminates one of the oft expressed comments from the Skirt Set.


"I don't want that thing hanging there !"


Oooooh. Gives me chills.



BTW, *Itsdon*,


Don't think I'm dissin' your choice! For any angled Ceiling app, that assembly shown is a good, inexpensive choice. The Peerless / Chief products to do the same would total over $250.00. In those cases, I'd have to have a real need to go with their Hardware just to be able to run my cables down a Pipe.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Duke Broadway*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23099560
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> For those of you with a HTPC connected to the 8350. I just build my first HTPC. I am having problems with to much overscan compared to my blu-ray, and xbox. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this?


What make of video card is installed? I'm using AMD (and Catalyst drivers).


----------



## BigSlade

I've tried searching the forums, and I apologize if this is not the right place for this, but I recently picked up the 8350 and have beem very pleased with it so far. The only issue I've run into is that when I try to access the setup menu on my Onkyo 705 reciever, the menu will not display and it indicates that there is no input. From searching the forums, some people suggested that it was because the menu was output at 480p and the projector may not supprt that resolution, but that is not the case. Has anyone else run into this issue? If so were you able to find a work around, or do I have to run the menu off of the display on the reciever? Thanks


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigSlade*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23101155
> 
> 
> I've tried searching the forums, and I apologize if this is not the right place for this, but I recently picked up the 8350 and have beem very pleased with it so far. The only issue I've run into is that when I try to access the setup menu on my Onkyo 705 reciever, the menu will not display and it indicates that there is no input. From searching the forums, some people suggested that it was because the menu was output at 480p and the projector may not supprt that resolution, but that is not the case. Has anyone else run into this issue? If so were you able to find a work around, or do I have to run the menu off of the display on the reciever? Thanks



You may also try entering the menu (and screen goes blank), then switch the projector to HDMI2 or other input than you were on, and then switch it back. I have to do this at the beginning after leaving the menu when playing some 3D blu-rays (only certain blu-rays) through my epson 3010.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigSlade*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23101155
> 
> 
> I've tried searching the forums, and I apologize if this is not the right place for this, but I recently picked up the 8350 and have beem very pleased with it so far. The only issue I've run into is that when I try to access the setup menu on my Onkyo 705 reciever, the menu will not display and it indicates that there is no input. From searching the forums, some people suggested that it was because the menu was output at 480p and the projector may not supprt that resolution, but that is not the case. Has anyone else run into this issue? If so were you able to find a work around, or do I have to run the menu off of the display on the reciever? Thanks


I doubt it's the 8350 if everything else works. Maybe you have another HDMI 1080p TV or monitor you can test with?

 

Works for me. I have the 8350 connected to my Onkyo 607 via HDMI.


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23101403
> 
> 
> I doubt it's the 8350 if everything else works.


While not the 8350, my Epson 8100 would periodically freeze up/refuse to start with 2 of 3 (2 of 4 if I count the PS3 which also had no problems) cheap Blu-ray players I had was turned on before the projector. My only solution was not to use those bluray players with it, and I had zero problems with the PS3 and the other bluray player that I did use with it. It's not impossible for there to be something about the way the receiver is generating the picture for the menu that is non-standard or otherwise unacceptable to the projector's software and results in it not displaying it.


----------



## BigSlade

I'll give swithcing inputs on the projector while I have the menu up a try, that or phsyically switching the HDMI input on the projector. I know the OSD display of my 705 is working, I used it about a week before I got the projector. I do have a monitor that I can drag in and use if all else fails, just would prefer to avoid having to do that. Thanks


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


I have an O 805 and find it does NOT upscale its internally generated menus to HDMI.  Please reread the O owner's manual as it says the menus are generated via Video and component outputs.  In my case, I have a video cable (old Yellow composite signal) connected between the O and PJ -- I have to switch the PJ to video to read the O menu and switch back after using it.  Clearly this is difficult and limits some of your insight to what the O has to share.  I often use the O'd front panel display rather than all of the switching back & forth.

 

You can do the same w/component (RGB) cables.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andrew Hornfeck*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23104314
> 
> 
> I have an O 805 and find it does NOT upscale its internally generated menus to HDMI.  Please reread the O owner's manual as it says the menus are generated via Video and component outputs.  In my case, I have a video cable (old Yellow composite signal) connected between the O and PJ -- I have to switch the PJ to video to read the O menu and switch back after using it.  Clearly this is difficult and limits some of your insight to what the O has to share.  I often use the O'd front panel display rather than all of the switching back & forth.
> 
> 
> 
> You can do the same w/component (RGB) cables.


Aren't forums great. Yes, a 805 is much closer to a 705 than my 607 is (2 generations newer). Obviously, they fixed that in the 607.

 

If the 705 will upscale other analog inputs to HDMI (like composite), and it outputs Composite and HDMI concurrently ... I wonder if you could connect Composite out to an un-used Composite Input?


----------



## BigSlade

I'm not sure that is it. Previously the menu worked just fine when output to my tv, it was only after I added the projector into the mix that the menu disappeared. I will talke a look at the owners manual tonight.


----------



## Duke Broadway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23100984
> 
> 
> What make of video card is installed? I'm using AMD (and Catalyst drivers).


Got it mostly fixed using an onboard graphics utility. Its not perfect but much improved.


----------



## BigSlade

So i forced the projector to change inputs and the menu finally came up. Thanks for all the suggestions, glad I don't have to drag an external monitor in there every time I want to change something in the menu.


----------



## Lebreeze

Do you guys have progressive mode on or off for blurays and directv? My setting got reset and I can't remember what I had before. Btw I like to reduce soap opera effect as much as possible. Thanks


----------



## mikemarino

Hi - new the forum and looking for some help with my brand new 8350. I have my blu ray connected through hdmi and my Comcast HD cable box to the component input. The blu ray image is spectacular - really a huge improvement over my old Panny AE900u. Big problem with the TV image though: while the image itself looks great, there are scrolling green and magenta bands that start at the bottom and roll toward the top of the image, along with some other image artifacts. This is on every channel, HD or standard def. When i switch the blu ray to the component input, no issues - spectacular image, so I don't believe it's the component input, but its also a different signal type. I have checked every connection and swapped component cables. I have tried adjusting every relevant projector setting I can think of, but no luck. This did not happen on the old projector, and no other TV in the house displays the same issue, so while I don't rule out the signal, I wonder if I'm missing something in the projector settings or if there's an issue with video signal processing. There's no hdmi out on the cable box so I can't do that comparison. Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## mikemarino

Hi - also posted this in the general pj thread as well - apologies but did not see the Epson owners thread at first. I'm new the forum and looking for some help with my brand new 8350. I have my blu ray connected through hdmi and my Comcast HD cable box to the component input. The blu ray image is spectacular - really a huge improvement over my old Panny AE900u. Big problem with the TV image though: while the image itself looks great, there are scrolling green and magenta bands that start at the bottom and roll toward the top of the image, along with some other image artifacts. This is on every channel, HD or standard def. When i switch the blu ray to the component input, no issues - spectacular image, so I don't believe it's the component input, but its also a different signal type. I have checked every connection and swapped component cables. I have tried adjusting every relevant projector setting I can think of, but no luck. This did not happen on the old projector, and no other TV in the house displays the same issue, so while I don't rule out the signal, I wonder if I'm missing something in the projector settings or if there's an issue with video signal processing. There's no hdmi out on the cable box so I can't do that comparison. Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## tshepp

Did you try swapping the cable box with another one to determine if it is the source?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemarino*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7920#post_23113908
> 
> 
> Hi - also posted this in the general pj thread as well - apologies but did not see the Epson owners thread at first. I'm new the forum and looking for some help with my brand new 8350. I have my blu ray connected through hdmi and my Comcast HD cable box to the component input. The blu ray image is spectacular - really a huge improvement over my old Panny AE900u. Big problem with the TV image though: while the image itself looks great, there are scrolling green and magenta bands that start at the bottom and roll toward the top of the image, along with some other image artifacts. This is on every channel, HD or standard def. When i switch the blu ray to the component input, no issues - spectacular image, so I don't believe it's the component input, but its also a different signal type. I have checked every connection and swapped component cables. I have tried adjusting every relevant projector setting I can think of, but no luck. This did not happen on the old projector, and no other TV in the house displays the same issue, so while I don't rule out the signal, I wonder if I'm missing something in the projector settings or if there's an issue with video signal processing. There's no hdmi out on the cable box so I can't do that comparison. Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions? Any help is appreciated.


Funny how Component and SPDIF used to be fine. But once you see 1080p over HDMI, you are ruined forever 







.  Got everything on HDMI nowdays (in main room).

 

When I first got my 8350, I didn't have a 30ft HDMI but I did have a nice long Component. Image was acceptable but darker and less vivid. Component is analog so everything affects it. Even VGA (from laptop near 8350) was lesser quality.

 

Sounds like it might be time for a new DVR. Even my 6 year old one had HDMI. If you are renting, you deserve better. And yes ... specific outputs can go bad.

 

Hey ... shouldn't your HDMI capable AVR be in the middle? It should upscale (convert) Component to HDMI.


----------



## tshepp

Double post


----------



## tshepp

While trying to calibrate, I found these settings that are supposed to be almost perfect. Anyone tried these?


----------



## curtlots

Those look like the same settings I have used.


Having said that, these settings, or anyone else's settings are a compromise since each projector, screen, and room are going to be different. Without a calibration meter, I have no idea how to properly calibrate gamma and RGB levels. I have the Disney WOW disk and Avia (I prefer WOW) and the basic brightness, contrast, and color levels matched up perfectly with these settings.


I would gladly rent calibration equipment if it was readily available. I'm also interested in purchasing with a small group of local people if anyone is interested. Any N.E. Wisconsin AVS'ers interested?


----------



## detroit1

in general, turning down the brightness control 7-10 notches and more contrast is very good on the 8350 and also using normal mode with super white on


projector central did this and got awesome results using super white, 6500K, iris on


----------



## mikemarino

Thanks Tesla. I'm a little behind in the new equipment department - still running my 5.1 with a 15 year old Marantz SR-18 that I'm loath to part with, but will definitely be at the Comcast office bright and early to swap out the non-HDMI cable box. Hopefully that solves the problem, but I two other identical boxes hooked up to a 50" Panasonic 1080p plasma and a 52" Sony 1080p LCD with no issues. The old AE9000u projector, while 720p native, displayed the cable 1080i signal without issue as well which has me concerned about the video processing of the 8350.


----------



## kevinwoodward

are you sure the colors are going to the correct ones?

perhaps you have an audio output mixed in.

recheck them or even try to reverse a couple.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemarino*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23116286
> 
> 
> but I two other identical boxes hooked up to a 50" Panasonic 1080p plasma and a 52" Sony 1080p LCD with no issues.


Oh, well then you could also drop in another (swap) and even test that box on 1080p plasma.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemarino*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23116286
> 
> 
> The old AE9000u projector, while 720p native, displayed the cable 1080i signal without issue as well *which has me concerned about the video processing of the 8350*.


Right, but you said:

 

*When i switch the blu ray to the component input, no issues - spectacular image,*

 

That checks "good" the long Component cable, and 8350 Component In, right?


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23115819
> 
> 
> in general, turning down the brightness control 7-10 notches and more contrast is very good on the 8350 and also using normal mode with super white on
> 
> 
> projector central did this and got awesome results using super white, 6500K, iris on



I noticed once I got my laminate screen hung that I had to dial brightness back to -10 right away in my light controlled theater. I will admit I am a newbie and dont really know much about high end video but I think I might be getting some "hotspotting" or something is off. When watching March Madness basketball this weekend, the court appeared to just be a super bright tan color. I could not distinctly see that it was a hardwood floor with woodgrain. On my plasma upstairs the image looked much different but had no clue on what to do to fix it. I wish I could get my projector configured by someone who knew what they were doing but so far with those settings I think it looks great.


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23123246
> 
> 
> I noticed once I got my laminate screen hung that I had to dial brightness back to -10 right away in my light controlled theater. I will admit I am a newbie and dont really know much about high end video but I think I might be getting some "hotspotting" or something is off. When watching March Madness basketball this weekend, the court appeared to just be a super bright tan color. I could not distinctly see that it was a hardwood floor with woodgrain. On my plasma upstairs the image looked much different but had no clue on what to do to fix it. I wish I could get my projector configured by someone who knew what they were doing but so far with those settings I think it looks great.



This does not sound like "hotspotting". Hotspotting is when the image is discernibly brighter in one portion of the screen than the rest of the screen.


What mode did you have the projector to? (Disclaimer: I have an 8100 not an 8350) On my 8100, if you put it in "Living Room" or "Dynamic", it would probably look like this. I'd liken it to looking like an overly compressed JPEG but only affecting parts of the image with brighter colors (and possibly with the darker colors as well). If you put it in any of the presets other than the "best"/dimmest preset, you can see negative effects on the image under limited circumstances, but the most obvious were on Living Room and Dynamic which were the two brightest modes (I still used Living Room sometimes if I had the room lighting on).


----------



## tshepp

I have mine on the dimmest setting which i think is Cinema. The picture gets really bright on some scenes (iris auto off) but I just really noticed it on baseketball. The hardwood on the court was just terrible. It could just be a settings issue now that I am reading more. I dont really see any hotspotting and my projector is also off center using almost the entire horizontal lens shift to throw the image to the left.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23115154
> 
> 
> While trying to calibrate, I found these settings that are supposed to be almost perfect. Anyone tried these?



I have a very simillar setup as the OP and have been using these settings for quite awhile now. They are a great starting point if you are looking to get a more cinema like picture out of your projector. I use this with the iauto iris on (adds some extra detail to the black parts of the picture and preserves colors in bright scenes) for movies in a dark room and iris off for tv with some ambient lighting, which is 2x15 watt lamps at the very back of the room. Works wonderfully for both! I just pushed the contrast up to 9 for some pop to sports and occasionally i drop brightness down to -12 for a brightly rendered film. Overall, i love this setting! Give it a try, it may work for you too.


----------



## ratpacker

Ahh, the 8350- I absolutely love this thing. For what it cost, I don't think it can be beat. The _only_ thing I find a bit lacking is the black levels, which are probably more to do with my screen (1.1 gain) and the color of my walls and ceiling (dingy white). The only thing about the black levels that really bothers me are the letterbox bars in widescreen movies. They look more dark gayish than black. The actual movie content looks superb, but the lighter shade of black in the bars really stands out in comparison. So, if and when I move, will I get a noticeably better result if I can alter the color of my walls and ceiling? Is it worth the trouble, or am I asking to much of a budget projector? Either way, I love this thing. Best A/V purchase I've ever made.


----------



## detroit1

If adjusted right, the 8350 can give a Super Quality picture

especially if you use Super White on, turn down the brightness control


I am using it with Separate DVDO Video Processor using lower Brightness, higher contrast and the fine detail control on the video processor and it is phenomenal looking after putting in the new bulb


it looks like I am watching a big plasma tv


no doubt the the best bang for the buck on the market


the sales idiots will never give it credit since they don't make high profit margin on it


----------



## Bandido 9ES




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23140271
> 
> 
> Ahh, the 8350- I absolutely love this thing. For what it cost, I don't think it can be beat. The _only_ thing I find a bit lacking is the black levels, which are probably more to do with my screen (1.1 gain) and the color of my walls and ceiling (dingy white). The only thing about the black levels that really bothers me are the letterbox bars in widescreen movies. They look more dark gayish than black. The actual movie content looks superb, but the lighter shade of black in the bars really stands out in comparison. So, if and when I move, will I get a noticeably better result if I can alter the color of my walls and ceiling? Is it worth the trouble, or am I asking to much of a budget projector? Either way, I love this thing. Best A/V purchase I've ever made.



How is your screen, motorized or fixed? Maybe look into detachable screen masks. I plan to build my own screen and use black velvet panels where there would be black bars on 2:35 content.


----------



## KBone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JustAnEE*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23067611
> 
> 
> If it rapidly dimmed, just wait a couple days and the bulb will likely fail -- This happened to me both times (hopefully before your 24 months is up). Then you can call and they should send you a new bulb. I don't think there's any reason they'd do anything if it's just dimmer, as that's normal and expected for the bulb to become dimmer with use. If it just gradually dimmed over time, then it could just be the way it's supposed to be. Bulbs get dimmer than when they are first used. (30%? 50%? I don't know a good % to state here)



This just happened to me.


I thought I was going crazy and it did rapidly dim over the last few days or so... at least what I noticed. Went to turn it on yesterday... Dead!


I e-mailed customer support. Hope to get things resolved soon!


----------



## efaust




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23140271
> 
> 
> Ahh, the 8350- I absolutely love this thing. For what it cost, I don't think it can be beat. The _only_ thing I find a bit lacking is the black levels, which are probably more to do with my screen (1.1 gain) and the color of my walls and ceiling (dingy white). The only thing about the black levels that really bothers me are the letterbox bars in widescreen movies. They look more dark gayish than black. The actual movie content looks superb, but the lighter shade of black in the bars really stands out in comparison. So, if and when I move, will I get a noticeably better result if I can alter the color of my walls and ceiling? Is it worth the trouble, or am I asking to much of a budget projector? Either way, I love this thing. Best A/V purchase I've ever made.



Hey Rat,


I have the same issue with the black bars on 2.4 stuff. The blacks look good on the materual itself, but the bars look somewhat washed out. I have a very dark charcoal wall that the screen is hung on, and dark ceiling, so I don't think you painting the wall would have any effect. Masking is probably the best solution, As Bandido suggested.


----------



## 42Plasmaman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23140271
> 
> 
> Ahh, the 8350- I absolutely love this thing. For what it cost, I don't think it can be beat. The _only_ thing I find a bit lacking is the black levels, which are probably more to do with my screen (1.1 gain) and the color of my walls and ceiling (dingy white). The only thing about the black levels that really bothers me are the letterbox bars in widescreen movies. They look more dark gayish than black. The actual movie content looks superb, but the lighter shade of black in the bars really stands out in comparison. So, if and when I move, will I get a noticeably better result if I can alter the color of my walls and ceiling? Is it worth the trouble, or am I asking to much of a budget projector? Either way, I love this thing. Best A/V purchase I've ever made.


1. Are you running in Dynamic/torch mode to get a very bright pricture?

2. Have you done some simple picture calibrating using some of the setting sprovide din this thread?

3. Is your iris enabled?

-This does help Black levels


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *42Plasmaman*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23141248
> 
> 
> 1. Are you running in Dynamic/torch mode to get a very bright pricture?
> 
> 2. Have you done some simple picture calibrating using some of the setting sprovide din this thread?
> 
> 3. Is your iris enabled?
> 
> -This does help Black levels



I run in eco for all the color modes. I used the WOW disc, but I tweaked a few settings to taste. I've read so many horror stories in this thread about the auto iris going out, that I just leave it disabled. I don't think it makes enough difference in the pq to run it anyway. When I watch 16x9 stuff, the picture is absolutely stunning. It's just when I'm watching widescreen material that the blacks in the bars seem a little washed out. I know my white walls and ceiling bouncing back light aren't helping any. But if it still looks washed out _with_ darker surroundings, I might look into a masking system later. Other than that minor quibble, I just wanna hug this thing. But then I'd have to readjust the lens shift, and that's a pain.


----------



## mech27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23140326
> 
> 
> If adjusted right, the 8350 can give a Super Quality picture
> 
> especially if you use Super White on, turn down the brightness control
> 
> 
> I am using it with Separate DVDO Video Processor using lower Brightness, higher contrast and the fine detail control on the video processor and it is phenomenal looking after putting in the new bulb
> 
> 
> it looks like I am watching a big plasma tv
> 
> 
> no doubt the the best bang for the buck on the market
> 
> 
> the sales idiots will never give it credit since they don't make high profit margin on it


What can of screen are you using?


----------



## Lebreeze

Past week my brightness seems to change for a milli second. To me it looks like its flickering. 770 hours on the bulb. I called epson yesterday they are sending me a new bulb. No questions asked awesome customer service.


----------



## Lebreeze

Past week my brightness seems to change for a milli second. To me it looks like its flickering. 770 hours on the bulb. I called epson yesterday they are sending me a new bulb. No questions asked awesome customer service.


----------



## kumanzc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lebreeze*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23141864
> 
> 
> Past week my brightness seems to change for a milli second. To me it looks like its flickering. 770 hours on the bulb. I called epson yesterday they are sending me a new bulb. No questions asked awesome customer service.



If they didn't ask for the old bulb back - try changing from eco (if you run in eco) to normal for a couple hours then go back and see.


----------



## Bandido 9ES

Yeah broham you just saved 250 usd when the time comes to replace the original bulb..hehe


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kumanzc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23142213
> 
> 
> If they didn't ask for the old bulb back - try changing from eco (if you run in eco) to normal for a couple hours then go back and see.



My lamp went out and they sent me a new one but asked to have the dead one returned. The new lamp came in while I was out of town, my son installed it and tossed the dead one -doh! Any idea how Epson handles that? It is less than two years old.


----------



## JustAnEE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Itsdon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23142743
> 
> 
> My lamp went out and they sent me a new one but asked to have the dead one returned. The new lamp came in while I was out of town, my son installed it and tossed the dead one -doh! Any idea how Epson handles that? It is less than two years old.



Well they didn't take your CC info or anything.... I had one I forgot to send back a year and a half ago. (was left in a vehicle), and no ill effects.... they sent the new replacement for the 2nd bulb that died at 29months last month. I wouldn't intentionally not send one back, but I wouldn't worry too much that yours was tossed instead of sent back.


----------



## elmalloc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bandido 9ES*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950_50#post_23141019
> 
> 
> How is your screen, motorized or fixed? Maybe look into detachable screen masks. I plan to build my own screen and use black velvet panels where there would be black bars on 2:35 content.



Use syfabrics triple plush black velvet as your fabric. Let me know if you need help building the panels, I just fabricated nearly my whole 3D room. It's a pretty easy process but is lengthy.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23146698
> 
> 
> Use syfabrics triple plush black velvet as your fabric. Let me know if you need help building the panels, I just fabricated nearly my whole 3D room. It's a pretty easy process but is lengthy.



I have used this fabric too and it is a good deal and works great. Shipping was fast too!

Salem


----------



## enderland

Is $899 a good price for these still? Looks like they are that on Epson's site for a refurb.


I've been wanting a projector for a while and my thesis is FINALLY NEARLY DONE which means I can have an excuse to replace the productive slavery with an unproductive hobby. Errr, I mean...


----------



## MrGreeno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enderland*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23150084
> 
> 
> Is $899 a good price for these still? Looks like they are that on Epson's site for a refurb.
> 
> 
> I've been wanting a projector for a while and my thesis is FINALLY NEARLY DONE which means I can have an excuse to replace the productive slavery with an unproductive hobby. Errr, I mean...


I picked mine up refurb from Epson about 3 weeks ago at that price..

After much surfing, that's the best price I found.. I haven't put mine into production yet but I did start it up and play around with it. It's huge but the PQ looks awesome!


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGreeno*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23150110
> 
> 
> I picked mine up refurb from Epson about 3 weeks ago at that price..
> 
> After much surfing, that's the best price I found.. I haven't put mine into production yet but I did start it up and play around with it. It's huge but the PQ looks awesome!



You can get the same price for a refurb from Visual Apex, and they throw in the Disney WoW disc and a shower cap, errrrrrr dust cover. 2nd day FedEx shipping, too.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23150692
> 
> 
> You can get the same price for a refurb from Visual Apex, and they throw in the Disney WoW disc and a shower cap, errrrrrr dust cover. 2nd day FedEx shipping, too.



I bought mine from VA. For the price the projector is great. Although I did have to send back the first two for various issues that should have been checked on a refurb. But they (Epson) cross shipped the replacements quickly







.

Salem


----------



## gene9p

I paid 999 for a new one at BB ..it was a price match from PC Richard's during the employee pricing sale and that was over a year ago.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gene9p*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23176096
> 
> 
> I paid 999 for a new one at BB ..it was a price match from PC Richard's during the employee pricing sale and that was over a year ago.


Ya, I got mine at BestBuy also.

 

I really like buying delicate stuff (8350, large plasmas, etc) at local Best Buy or Sears... no UPS/FedEx torture. Some of that internal machine damage doesn't show up until years later.

 

The new BB price matching is nice. Sears has been doing it for like 10 years (but you had to ask for it and sometimes talk with a manager). OfficeDepot Price-Matched Staples (to weekly sales price) the other day on a HP Color Laser. Really only hassle with it on expensive stuff. Seems Staples and Amazon are determining prices ... but watch Amazon ... prices widely vary from one day to the next, even on Prime or items they warehouse and "Fulfill".


----------



## RusherRacing

The Onkyo 8350 just replaced my dead HD20..


Just recieved it and it works great with the dish network reciever ran through my Onkyo NR616 reciever however if i use my PS3 through the onkyo nr-616 it flashes funky and then says not supported?


What is the best solution? I think it is ~ a 25ft cable...

Why is it just the on the PS3 when played of hte dish network reciever (even in HD)?



Just looking for a quick solution.


----------



## MrGreeno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RusherRacing*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23179312
> 
> 
> The Onkyo 8350 just replaced my dead HD20..
> 
> 
> Just recieved it and it works great with the dish network reciever ran through my Onkyo NR616 reciever however if i use my PS3 through the onkyo nr-616 it flashes funky and then says not supported?
> 
> 
> What is the best solution? I think it is ~ a 25ft cable...
> 
> Why is it just the on the PS3 when played of hte dish network reciever (even in HD)?
> 
> 
> 
> Just looking for a quick solution.



Switch around your cables and see if that does the trick.. Eliminate one variable at a time.


----------



## RusherRacing

What confuses me is why my HD20 works (besides the color wheel going out) and not the epson.


----------



## ratpacker

You might have to adjust some settings on the PS3. If it's cable related, grab a monoprice hdmi cable. When I first got my 8350 I used a cheapo cable I got off Amazon that didn't work. No problems with the monoprice cable I replaced it with. In fact, I should've just got a monoprice cable to begin with, since all they ever do is work. Good luck.


----------



## kevinwoodward

did switching the cable as suggested work?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RusherRacing*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23179312
> 
> 
> 1. replaced my dead HD20..
> 
> 
> 2. Just looking for a quick solution.


1. Be sure it's really clean inside (open it and use air compressor). I recovered my brothers Optoma that way. They have lots of controls inside that shut them down in case of problems.

 

2. Personally... I like lengthy, difficult solutions.


----------



## tshepp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7950#post_23115719
> 
> 
> Those look like the same settings I have used.
> 
> 
> Having said that, these settings, or anyone else's settings are a compromise since each projector, screen, and room are going to be different. Without a calibration meter, I have no idea how to properly calibrate gamma and RGB levels. I have the Disney WOW disk and Avia (I prefer WOW) and the basic brightness, contrast, and color levels matched up perfectly with these settings.
> 
> 
> I would gladly rent calibration equipment if it was readily available. I'm also interested in purchasing with a small group of local people if anyone is interested. Any N.E. Wisconsin AVS'ers interested?



Id love to have mine calibrated!


----------



## carp

I've noticed I've had a lot more issues with "burn in" lately. I know it isn't the screen burning in, but something in the projector itself. If I have a static image on the screen for any length of time (that time keeps getting shorter and shorter) I can faintly see for a couple hours or so while watching something else. The burnt in image does go away, it just seems like it happens way too easily now.


I'm planning on opening it up and clearing out the dust blobs as per the instructions on this thread, so maybe that will help the problems. It is annoying though.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BestInTheWorld*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23176937
> 
> 
> If anyone is interested, *I am selling my EPSON 8350 for $1000*. It is less than a year old, and has under 50 hours of total usage. PM me for details, and whoever pays for it is responsible for shipping/handling costs.
> 
> 
> I am looking at buying a JVC or SONY projector later this year before Christmas.



Why only 50 hrs usage? How much "less than a year"? Sorry mate, but did you not use it at all or is this a problem unit? The latter seems more likely...


----------



## kevinwoodward

I would stay away from this one.


----------



## southpaw85

If 1080p is essentially 2x the pixels as 720p, and my Epson 8350 has a misconvergence of 1 pixel (which is considered within tolerance limits), then really my 8350 is no sharper than a 720p projector, no? Does anyone have an 8350 that has perfect alignment? I'm kind of kicking myself right now, I feel like maybe I should have went with a 1080p DLP projector to get tighter pixels and deeper blacks. I'm just ranting. Any thoughts on my 720p analysis?


----------



## F12Bwth

You're not even close.. The misalignment/convergence usually only happens near the corners and is usually only one color, one pixel off. The difference between this at 1080P and a 720P is MASSIVE.. All you need do is hook a PC up and run in the two modes. A PC's output can easily show you precisely the accuracy you are getting compared to a blu-ray player or game console that doesn't use a single pixel for anything. Font's window borders.. All those show exactly how sharp your 1080P projector is and even with my unit looking like this near the bottom it still is sharp as a tac when it is just rendering windows.

 



Any blurriness is the camera's fault and no the projector.


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *southpaw85*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23191211
> 
> 
> If 1080p is essentially 2x the pixels as 720p, and my Epson 8350 has a misconvergence of 1 pixel (which is considered within tolerance limits), then really my 8350 is no sharper than a 720p projector, no? Does anyone have an 8350 that has perfect alignment? I'm kind of kicking myself right now, I feel like maybe I should have went with a 1080p DLP projector to get tighter pixels and deeper blacks. I'm just ranting. Any thoughts on my 720p analysis?



As far as I can tell my unit has perfect convergence. And from what I understand, to get appreciably deeper blacks on a dlp, you'd have to spend more than what the 8350 cost. If you're still not happy with the unit you've got and you're still within warranty, just have Epson swap it out. I was considering dlp too, but even though shattering color wheels, higher fan noise and RBE concerned me, the real deal breaker for me was limited placement flexibility with budget units. So I took a chance on LCD with it's misconvergence, dust blobs and slightly softer picture being potential issues. But so far I've had good luck.


----------



## tshepp

Just got my wow disc and when calibrating brightness and contrast those previous settings were way off according to the disc. The only way they looked proper was brightness at 0 and contrast at -2. Does that seem backwards?


----------



## Nowak

Hello everybody!


I'm also in search for my first projector.

It will be used ONLY for Gaming, HD Movies (always with subtitles) and Anime. Not really interested in 3D


It will be used in a living room setup, wich has light colored walls, a window that will be covered, white roof with a height of about 90 inches – so, between medium to little ambient lightning during daytime.

The idea is to have the projector ceiling mounted.


Also, I have never seen a DLP PJ before, so I dont´know if the RainBow Effect will afect me.


By the way, I'm from South America, so I don't have access to all kinds of Projectors.


My options are the following:


Epson 8350 (1 year warranty)

Mitsubishi HC4000 (1 year warranty)

BenQ W1070 (*NO warranty*, since it would have to be imported from USA, and can´t be returned)

Mitsubishi HC7800 (*NO warranty*, since it would have to be imported from USA, and can´t be returned)

Sanyo Z4000 (used)


Thank you very much!


----------



## eyekode

First make sure the projectors you want to use will work where you want to mount them. The benq would not work for me.


My environment is similar to yours. In living room mode it is bright enough during the day to be usable on my white 105" diagonal black out cloth screen. But blacks suffer of course.


At night it looks much better and I use cinema mode.


I am in the process of really blacking out the windows and hopefully painting the room darker to improve black levels during the day.


I like this projector but I had to send the first two back (free shipping) due to out of the box issues so make sure Epson has the same great support in your country that they have in the US.

Salem


----------



## TrekFX

Just a few quick observations and pointers...


The 8350 is VERY sensitive to any misalignment with the screen, that's to say any deviation from dead-on perpendicular horizontally and vertically.


I had what seemed like some minor misconvergence and the focus was a bit soft in the corners. I felt my projector alignment was pretty good, but I spent some time rechecking my setup and got everything much closer to 90 degrees. It really wasn't off by much but it made a big improvement! Proper focus and color alignment seem related, so getting more uniform focus fixed most of the "misconvergence."


----------



## DL4567

Hi everyone,


I've had my 8350 for 6 months now, and am loving it. Super quiet on eco/cinema modes. A couple nights ago I turned it on to watch something and noticed the addition of a high pitched "tone" to the fan noise. It has 114 hours on it, and never made this noise before. Literally just started out of the blue.


I mean, it's pretty subtle, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I know it wasn't doing it before and I can hear it in quiet parts of movies now. I watched something else the next day and it was still doing it. Anyone else experiencing this? It's like a very faint whistle noise.


As a side note, 6 months ago just before getting my 8350 I received and sent back a refurbished 8700UB, and it made a similar noise. I was glad my new 8350 didn't. Is this something all the Epson's do as they get some hours on them?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23202980
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for 6 months now, and am loving it. Super quiet on eco/cinema modes. A couple nights ago I turned it on to watch something and noticed the addition of a high pitched "tone" to the fan noise. It has 114 hours on it, and never made this noise before. Literally just started out of the blue.
> 
> 
> I mean, it's pretty subtle, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I know it wasn't doing it before and I can hear it in quiet parts of movies now. I watched something else the next day and it was still doing it. Anyone else experiencing this? It's like a very faint whistle noise.
> 
> 
> As a side note, 6 months ago just before getting my 8350 I received and sent back a refurbished 8700UB, and it made a similar noise. I was glad my new 8350 didn't. Is this something all the Epson's do as they get some hours on them?


Cold Power-cycle it Off for a while.

 

Be sure filter is clean.

 

Run on Non-Eco for a while to exercise fan.


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23203018
> 
> 
> Cold Power-cycle it Off for a while.
> 
> 
> Be sure filter is clean.
> 
> 
> Run on Non-Eco for a while to exercise fan.



Thanks for the reply!







In regards to the cold power cycling, nothing changed from Fri to Sat night (turned off in between of course), I was hoping it would. I turned it to non-eco last night for about 5 minutes (wow it's "loud" by comparison) and it did seem to help a little when going back to eco. Would the filter already need cleaning after only 6 months / 114 hours? I'd be happy to clean it if that helped. I thought that'd be several hundred hours or a couple years....


EDIT: The only thing coinciding with the sudden high pitched tone is the weather. My entire 8350 ownership so far has been in cold, dry winter months. In the last week it has suddenly warmed up here in Georgia. The house is doing all the usual warming up "pops" and creaking noises. Could warmer temps and humidity affect the fan?


----------



## kumanzc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23202980
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for 6 months now, and am loving it. Super quiet on eco/cinema modes. A couple nights ago I turned it on to watch something and noticed the addition of a high pitched "tone" to the fan noise. It has 114 hours on it, and never made this noise before. Literally just started out of the blue.
> 
> 
> I mean, it's pretty subtle, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I know it wasn't doing it before and I can hear it in quiet parts of movies now. I watched something else the next day and it was still doing it. Anyone else experiencing this? It's like a very faint whistle noise.
> 
> 
> As a side note, 6 months ago just before getting my 8350 I received and sent back a refurbished 8700UB, and it made a similar noise. I was glad my new 8350 didn't. Is this something all the Epson's do as they get some hours on them?



Mine did the same thing although at about 200 hours. Picture is fantastic and have read too many things about refurb nightmares so I'm going to live with it (cleaned filter and didn't have any effect).


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kumanzc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23204264
> 
> 
> Mine did the same thing although at about 200 hours. Picture is fantastic and have read too many things about refurb nightmares so I'm going to live with it (cleaned filter and didn't have any effect).




Hmmmm.... well that is both good and bad news. Good in that I'm not the only one experiencing it, but bad in that it sounds like it's a common thing and does happen within 100-200 hours. A shame, really, because everything about this projector has been perfect so far. This sound, slight as it is, just makes me think why can't it stay quiet and perfect? I understand fans can get noisy with age, but damn, this projector is still fairly new, not like some old rickety thing that you'd expect to start whining after a while. My parents' Sharp DLP projector is 11 years old and sounds the same now as when new. It's not super quiet, being DLP, but the noise hasn't changed at all. Louder blowing fan noise is easier to dismiss than a "tone" or high-pitched note.


I totally agree about the refurb horror stories. My picture is still amazing and I don't want to ever swap this thing out for a replacement from Epson unless something went terribly wrong with it.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


Short of attempting to quiet the fan yourself (home made repair, use of compressed "computer" air) that's your only option - to use the warranty.


----------



## kumanzc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23206009
> 
> 
> Hmmmm.... well that is both good and bad news. Good in that I'm not the only one experiencing it, but bad in that it sounds like it's a common thing and does happen within 100-200 hours. A shame, really, because everything about this projector has been perfect so far. This sound, slight as it is, just makes me think why can't it stay quiet and perfect? I understand fans can get noisy with age, but damn, this projector is still fairly new, not like some old rickety thing that you'd expect to start whining after a while. My parents' Sharp DLP projector is 11 years old and sounds the same now as when new. It's not super quiet, being DLP, but the noise hasn't changed at all. Louder blowing fan noise is easier to dismiss than a "tone" or high-pitched note.
> 
> 
> I totally agree about the refurb horror stories. My picture is still amazing and I don't want to ever swap this thing out for a replacement from Epson unless something went terribly wrong with it.



I'm only a couple of months into the warranty and it generally doesn't bother me as usually my kids drown it out or if I am watching a movie I usually watch it pretty loud so may hold off until closer to the 2 year mark before going to Epson.


----------



## orangezero

I am about 20 months into my warranty, and had a lamp burst about 11 months in, which epson did replace after some discussion, but I remember them not exactly fall over backwards to help me (which was counter to all the comments about them being so helpful). Had my 2nd bulb go out yesterday and I had to talk to two people in support today. First kept driving home the 90 lamp warranty, and was oblivious to any issues with the lamps now. She said it was simply a problem a year or more ago. The second guy was the same line, until i wanted to speak with a manager.


In short, their support is average at best. One of my main reasons for purchasing this was because of so many positive reviews about customer support and their recent extended 2yr warranty (which I understand is quite unusual and unique, but again the reason I gave them my money). They make you get mildly ugly (i feel at least) in order to get what everyone else seems to get. If they are going to have a two year replacement on the bulbs, then do it and don't make us "work" for it.


In the future, I will probably just get a better designed machine that doesn't have 4000hr bulbs bursting at less than half the time.


Hopefully this brings a little sobriety to the "wonderful" epson support, and perhaps some food for thought. My projector has been in relatively cool environment, not confined, etc. And two bulbs lasted less than half the rated spec.


----------



## F12Bwth

A sad and heartwarming story. They resist but eventually cave because they know their bulb is at fault. My concern is that I don't use it a whole lot. Maybe ~200+ hours since November and I want to make sure if my bulb does go early I get the replacement without a hassle.


----------



## drouin2009

I've had terrible luck. My bulbs don't even last 1000 hours. Epson keeps replacing them, telling me that they had a bad batch of bulbs. On my third bulb I told the rep I felt like I was being taken for a ride. cheaper to replace a bulb than a projector. My 4th bulb just blew after 700 hours and I was told it sounds like a hardware issue; I'm 2 months out of my warranty now and they won't fix it.


----------



## orangezero

Yeah, a quality warranty is nice, but a thermally appropriate design is simply better. I haven't looked at all 268 pages, is there much talk of modifying anything (post-warranty) to improve airflow?


I'm sure other things could be done as well. Some well placed computer fans could be quiet but also allow for increased airflow, but I'm not sure where the placement would be. Sucking out the front? I think someone mentioned the firmware may not leave the fan on long enough when it is shut off. Seems prolonged sessions should be avoided.


It seems as if BHphoto was one of the cheaper places. I'm wondering if I should just sell this one when I get the new bulb.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *orangezero*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23212691
> 
> 
> Yeah, a quality warranty is nice, but a thermally appropriate design is simply better. I haven't looked at all 268 pages, is there much talk of modifying anything (post-warranty) to improve airflow?
> 
> 
> I'm sure other things could be done as well. Some well placed computer fans could be quiet but also allow for increased airflow, but I'm not sure where the placement would be. Sucking out the front? I think someone mentioned the firmware may not leave the fan on long enough when it is shut off. Seems prolonged sessions should be avoided.
> 
> 
> It seems as if BHphoto was one of the cheaper places. I'm wondering if I should just sell this one when I get the new bulb.



The fan stays on for all of 15 seconds after the projector is turned off. I am betting this is the culprit.

Salem


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23213278
> 
> 
> The fan stays on for all of 15 seconds after the projector is turned off. I am betting this is the culprit.
> 
> Salem



Set your unit to :High Altitude: mode.. It runs the fans louder and longer after shutoff.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23214754
> 
> 
> Set your unit to :High Altitude: mode.. It runs the fans louder and longer after shutoff.



Interesting.... I'll try this out. I haven't had issues with bulbs but would like to avoid any. Does anyone know if running high altitude can cause any issues?


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23215548
> 
> 
> Interesting.... I'll try this out. I haven't had issues with bulbs but would like to avoid any. Does anyone know if running high altitude can cause any issues?



High altitude mode generally runs the fan a little faster, to compensate for the less dense air. I've had to run my pj's in this mode, with no adverse effects. Nor should you expect any. Some speculate that it may even help with bulb life in lower altitude regions, due to the more efficient cooling?


----------



## orangezero

Well, I got home from work today and had a projector lamp on my doorstep. The previous one was just a normal fedex and took 2 or 3 days, so at least they do take care of you if you complain enough. I almost think that is worse in some ways. It was rather obvious at the beginning of my conversation that I was potentially going to get screwed because I told the truth about my lamp hours, etc. So even when they overnight a lamp and have virtually no downtime, I am still left with a bad taste in my mouth.


With this new bulb I'll have to try the high altitude mode. Anything else to try? I'm going to keep my hours per session down as well.


----------



## DL4567

How loud is high-altitude mode paired with eco lamp energy mode compared to non-high-altitude mode paired with "normal" lamp energy?


High-altitude aside (turned off), there is quite a jump in noise between eco and normal lamp.


----------



## k2ue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23216658
> 
> 
> How loud is high-altitude mode paired with eco lamp energy mode compared to non-high-altitude mode paired with "normal" lamp energy?
> 
> 
> High-altitude aside (turned off), there is quite a jump in noise between eco and normal lamp.



Subjectively, I find Eco/High Altitude less noticeable than Normal/Normal.


----------



## PappaSmurf

If the bulb goes out how do you know for sure? Does any lights flash on the unit etc? Thanks..


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurf*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23218991
> 
> 
> If the bulb goes out how do you know for sure? Does any lights flash on the unit etc? Thanks..



Normal signs it's starting to fail might be, rapid dimming, colors not accurate, burning smell, up to and/or the lamp actually bursting. Most pjs have a lamp replacement "timer" indicator, but not one that will tell you that the bulb is about to burn up/explode .


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *orangezero*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23216487
> 
> 
> Well, I got home from work today and had a projector lamp on my doorstep. The previous one was just a normal fedex and took 2 or 3 days, so at least they do take care of you if you complain enough. I almost think that is worse in some ways. It was rather obvious at the beginning of my conversation that I was potentially going to get screwed because I told the truth about my lamp hours, etc. So even when they overnight a lamp and have virtually no downtime, I am still left with a bad taste in my mouth.
> 
> 
> With this new bulb I'll have to try the high altitude mode. Anything else to try? I'm going to keep my hours per session down as well.



Beyond using the high altitude mode, (which may help), make sure power cycles are kept to a minimum which is the main culprit, and always trying to allow the bulb to cool down properly between cycles. Maybe 30-45 mins? I will sometimes just leave mine on if I need to make a quick trip to the store, and will be returning in a short period to resume watching. Also keep it well ventilated with a clean filters, to allow proper air flow into the unit.


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *k2ue*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23217034
> 
> 
> Subjectively, I find Eco/High Altitude less noticeable than Normal/Normal.



Thanks, that's what I was hoping. I have to wait until the weekend to try it out. I'm just looking for another option to "exercise" the fan besides switching from eco to (loud) normal mode, to help lessen the new "tone" noise of the fan in eco. So complicated..... it should just stay quiet as it's been until now.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23219114
> 
> 
> Beyond using the high altitude mode, (which may help), make sure power cycles are kept to a minimum which is the main culprit, and always trying to allow the bulb to cool down properly between cycles. Maybe 30-45 mins? I will sometimes just leave mine on if I need to make a quick trip to the store, and will be returning in a short period to resume watching. Also keep it well ventilated with a clean filters, to allow proper air flow into the unit.



I do this too. If I turn it on it's not going to be turned off until I know I'm done with it for the day. Maybe that's why I've had good luck with my bulbs. My first one has just under 1000 hours and looks very bright for it's "age". I bought another so I could use the first as a backup just in case and now have 200+ hours and it looks very bright too.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23214754
> 
> 
> Set your unit to :High Altitude: mode.. It runs the fans louder and longer after shutoff.



I just watched Django Unchained in high altitude







. The fan noise is a little louder but not awful. However after turning off the projector the fan still only runs for 15 secs







.

Salem


----------



## DL4567

I know there's mostly concern for bulb life here lately, but if anyone else is a noise-fanatic like me, I discovered something great last night and wanted to share hoping it might benefit someone. I seem to have solved the high-pitched "tone" that my 8350 fan started making about 10 running hours ago (on eco/cinema). I was perfectly happy with the quietness on that mode, until that sound started. So it got me thinking..... I remember back on the very first night after bringing the projector home from the store, I hung it from the ceiling and turned it on, and of course the picture was upside down. The very first thing to do was to bring up the menu and switch from "front" to "front/ceiling" mode. When I made that switch, I noticed the fan got a little louder, not by a whole lot, but noticeable in an otherwise quiet room. I thought it was weird, thinking, "what does inverting the picture have to do with fan noise?"... but oh well, it wasn't a big deal and there was no choice about putting it on ceiling mode. It was hung from the ceiling and that's where it was going to stay.


Fast forward to last night, and I was looking through the video card settings on my HTPC, and noticed there was an option to flip the desktop upside down. Kind of surprising, as I've never seen that on a computer before. So I turned that on, and then changed the projector back to "front" mode, and the fan INSTANTLY got quieter and that damn tone noise went away!!!! I was thrilled. The projector is SOOOOO quiet now I can't believe it. So for those of you with an HTPC, check out your video card options, if it can flip the picture it's better to let the computer do it rather than the projector. Or, if you shelf-mount the projector on its feet, this also allows you to use the quieter "front" (non-ceiling) mode.


What gets me is the mystery of why the fan changes when going to upside-down ceiling mode.....there is no change to the bulb brightness or energy. Also, fingers crossed that some new noise won't develop again in another hundred hours.


----------



## tpoynton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23230907
> 
> 
> What gets me is the mystery of why the fan changes when going to upside-down ceiling mode.....there is no change to the bulb brightness or energy. Also, fingers crossed that some new noise won't develop again in another hundred hours.



I have no evidence for what I am about to say...but hot air rises, right. I have to wonder if the fan needs to work a little harder to cool things properly in ceiling mode...and if running in 'front' when projector is upside down might decrease bulb life. I love your idea, dont get me wrong - but it might explain why fan noise decreases.


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tpoynton*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23233144
> 
> 
> I have no evidence for what I am about to say...but hot air rises, right. I have to wonder if the fan needs to work a little harder to cool things properly in ceiling mode...and if running in 'front' when projector is upside down might decrease bulb life. I love your idea, dont get me wrong - but it might explain why fan noise decreases.



That is a very good point, I will definitely keep a close eye on it. Are you saying that it might have something to do with the orientation of the projector case itself and heat rising within it, or that air in general near a ceiling would be warmer than air further down where a projector might be on a table or shelf?


I checked the user manual, and it doesn't say anything helpful on the subject (just instructions about changing the modes), but that doesn't mean there isn't a reason for the difference in fan speed. Epson probably assumed that no one would ever send an upside-down signal to the projector and that the unit's orientation would dictate for sure that it would be in the proper fan mode associated with the front/rear/ceiling setup mode. But then, who's to say that someone wouldn't mount it on a shelf rather close to the ceiling? (even though the manual says to allow lots of space around it)


If it's not an air-is-warmer-at-the-top-of-a-room thing, I just can't see how the orientation of the box itself would affect internal airflow. There are no vents on top or bottom, and the air is coming in one side and going out the other no matter which way it's flipped. I'll throw it out there that I've observed at least 1 possibly unnecessary fan change...... with a VGA signal, the fan stays the same when going from cinema color mode to natural, which makes sense because they're about the same lumen output. However, when doing the same with an HDMI signal, the fan steps up, despite no increase in brightness. Strange.....


In any case, I'll give this a try and keep a close watch on the temps near the ceiling. Too bad there's no thermometer to call up in one of the projector's menus....


----------



## Mauski

Hey all,

this is my first post in this forum. Last few weeks I have tried out a few projectors: Benq W1070 (returned due to rainbow effect) and Epson HC 3020 (returned due to high input lag and mediocre blacks). After reading some promising reviews I decided to try out the HC 8350. I expected low lag and a small improvement of sharpness and black level. Indeed, the 8350 is fast as hell with my measured 15-20ms... feels much smoother in games and inet browsing. But: the blacks are not really better than the blacks of the 3020, are they? And the sharpness is dissapointing too. I made a few close shots of the projected picture and see colored fringes... Does my projector have serious convergence issues?

Especially the white lines on black look terrible.


----------



## southpaw85

Mauski,

It appears that your 8350 is off by just one pixel. I have an 8350 with the exact same alignment. I can't see it at all though from my viewing distance of about 14 feet. My 8350 is well within tolerance limits for misconverge, it's just the nature of 3lcd's. Unfortunately, there are compromises with every projector. I'm surprised to hear you saw rainbows with the Benq W1070. I've been thinking about going that route. I had an office projector originally that I thought I could use for movies/tv. Not so much. Turns out the color wheel was RBGCYM @ 7200rpm. Basically, only a 2x. But since the W1070 is RGBRGB @ 7200 it is 4x. I was thinking about giving a dlp projector that was actually made for movies a shot. But I digress.


----------



## tpoynton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23234109
> 
> 
> That is a very good point, I will definitely keep a close eye on it. Are you saying that it might have something to do with the orientation of the projector case itself and heat rising within it, or that air in general near a ceiling would be warmer than air further down where a projector might be on a table or shelf?
> 
> 
> I checked the user manual, and it doesn't say anything helpful on the subject (just instructions about changing the modes), but that doesn't mean there isn't a reason for the difference in fan speed. Epson probably assumed that no one would ever send an upside-down signal to the projector and that the unit's orientation would dictate for sure that it would be in the proper fan mode associated with the front/rear/ceiling setup mode. But then, who's to say that someone wouldn't mount it on a shelf rather close to the ceiling? (even though the manual says to allow lots of space around it)
> 
> 
> If it's not an air-is-warmer-at-the-top-of-a-room thing, I just can't see how the orientation of the box itself would affect internal airflow. There are no vents on top or bottom, and the air is coming in one side and going out the other no matter which way it's flipped. I'll throw it out there that I've observed at least 1 possibly unnecessary fan change...... with a VGA signal, the fan stays the same when going from cinema color mode to natural, which makes sense because they're about the same lumen output. However, when doing the same with an HDMI signal, the fan steps up, despite no increase in brightness. Strange.....
> 
> 
> In any case, I'll give this a try and keep a close watch on the temps near the ceiling. Too bad there's no thermometer to call up in one of the projector's menus....



i was thinking it had more to do with the design of the case than being near the ceiling. As you note, why else would the fan speed change? It is pure speculation based on the fact you reported lower fan noise...I have done no such testing! Could be a great find - or a little dangerous...but we really dont know - so I would err on the side of caution and turn up the volume a little bit to cover the fan noise.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mauski*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23235113
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> this is my first post in this forum. Last few weeks I have tried out a few projectors: Benq W1070 (returned due to rainbow effect) and Epson HC 3020 (returned due to high input lag and mediocre blacks). After reading some promising reviews I decided to try out the HC 8350. I expected low lag and a small improvement of sharpness and black level. Indeed, the 8350 is fast as hell with my measured 15-20ms... feels much smoother in games and inet browsing. But: the blacks are not really better than the blacks of the 3020, are they? And the sharpness is dissapointing too. I made a few close shots of the projected picture and see colored fringes... Does my projector have serious convergence issues?
> 
> Especially the white lines on black look terrible.



I don't think it's a "serious" convergence issue, however I think you would be happier with one with less than 1/2 pixel difference. It's up to you to try the roulette game with Epson on the return, but I think in this case it might be warranted. Send the images to tech support, and tell them your concerns. Also if you do decide to swap it out, ask that the new pj being sent back to you, be inspected prior to shipment.


----------



## evlo

I'm projecting on the wall, here is a picture of convergence i do get. I think it is not great and DLP would do better, however might it be caused because of wall itself reflects ligt projected on it? From my couch i can't see anything wrong with the picture.

Also i don't have the best camera ...
 

 



Tough it is noticeably less sharp then benw w1070 projected on proper screen.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *evlo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23239107
> 
> 
> I'm projecting on the wall, here is a picture of convergence i do get. I think it is not great and DLP would do better, however might it be caused because of wall itself reflects ligt projected on it? From my couch i can't see anything wrong with the picture.
> 
> Also i don't have the best camera ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tough it is noticeably less sharp then benw w1070 projected on proper screen.



That looks wonderful to me. I don't think you will be able to see that level of misconvergence in moving pictures. And if you can't see it from your couch it is a definite keeper







.


DLP is sharper then 3 panel technologies but there are other considerations as well.

Salem


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *evlo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23239107
> 
> 
> I'm projecting on the wall, here is a picture of convergence i do get. I think it is not great and DLP would do better, however might it be caused because of wall itself reflects ligt projected on it? From my couch i can't see anything wrong with the picture.
> 
> Also i don't have the best camera ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tough it is noticeably less sharp then benw w1070 projected on proper screen.



I'm failing to see a problem in those images. Looks fine to me, as long as those pics are accurate.


----------



## DL4567




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tpoynton*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23237097
> 
> 
> i was thinking it had more to do with the design of the case than being near the ceiling. As you note, why else would the fan speed change? It is pure speculation based on the fact you reported lower fan noise...I have done no such testing! Could be a great find - or a little dangerous...but we really dont know - so I would err on the side of caution and turn up the volume a little bit to cover the fan noise.



I've been researching this further and found this post all the way back from _2005_. I don't know how much of an "expert" this person is, but they seem to think it's because of warmer air near ceilings. Amazingly he even mentions using an HTPC to flip the image.


I wonder if the 8350's fan is smart enough like a PC fan to rev up the speed should the temp get too high.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/499182/ack-suddenly-noisy-projector/0_100#post_5035743


----------



## tpoynton

well that's interesting...basically saying the fan is on higher assuming higher temp near ceiling. 2005 is well before the 8350, so perhaps it is common on projectors - a feature? If it is common across projectors, all the more reason IMHO to use it! If you are willing to experiment with your bulb, for better or worse, it would be a nice contribution! I personally dont always use an htpc to view content or I might give it a go because I like a good experiment


----------



## bradtn

Bought this unit waiting for it to arrive. What should I test on it to be sure its ok ? ( First Projector)


----------



## kumanzc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradtn*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8010#post_23243550
> 
> 
> Bought this unit waiting for it to arrive. What should I test on it to be sure its ok ? ( First Projector)



I would put up the test pattern or something with lettering to check for convergence issues. That seems to be the biggest problem (not sure how big a problem it is but is definitely talked a lot about on this thread) out of the box you may run into. Putting a black screen up as well and looking for dust spots may not be a bad idea either.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


Once he finds anything "wrong" he'll always see the flaws - whereas if he installs it perfectly perpendicular to the image wall and lens shifts as required he'll find just how G R A N D the HD image is and will never "see" any issues


----------



## GTA Beancounter

Hello Everyone,


I'm currently on the fence between the 8350 and Panasonic AR100U. I have read much of this thread as well as another that directly compares these two projectors. But I'm most interested in *hearing from current owners of the 8350*; specifically would you buy the same projector today given all that you know. Also, which would you recommend given my circumstances below?:



My room is in the basement with no windows or light leakage. I have just over a dozen recessed pot lights and most viewing will be pitch black (movies / concerts) with the occassional sporting event where the lights will be on but dimmed. All the TVs in our home are Plasmas so I do value a quality picture above just about anything else (though my budget has me looking at the projectors above). I plan to splurge on an Elunevision Reference 4K 1.0 White Fixed Screen though as the plan is to get a 4K projector in a few years. The screen will be 108" and the projector will be ceiling mounted 12' away.


Up until reading about all the dust ball and lamp issues I was sure it would be the 8350. I can pick it up locally for $200 less than the Panasonic and my understanding is that the 8350 has a bitter picture given my viewing habits. Now I'm confused!!! Is the 8350 really that much better than the AR100U in a darkened room?


----------



## ratpacker

I'm using a refurbed 8350, my first and hopefully last one. I'm projecting a 106" image at about 15 feet in a room that's all white, far from ideal. My plasma is now only used for "casual" viewing, while the projector gets the bulk of my gaming and movie watching. My opinion of the 8350- you can have it when you pry it from my cold dead hands.


----------



## kumanzc

Can't really compare to other projectors as this is the only one I've seen in this price range but I would say I would buy one again but wouldn't recommend it to anyone else if that makes sense. I love the picture and was able to get one with almost perfect convergence (I originally wrote lucky enough to get one with almost perfect convergence but took out the 'lucky enough' as I have no actual stats to say if you have to be lucky to get one like that or unlucky to get a poor one) so it is great for me. This thread though makes it unlikely I would recommend to someone else as there does seem to be quite a few issues that may or may not be of concern for others.


----------



## horseflesh

If you can buy it locally and they have a good return policy, there is no reason not to try the 8350 is that is the direction you are already leaning.


----------



## rccarps2

Hey guys! Been lurking here for a while. In the process of finishing my basement. A portion of it I am making into a rec/media room.


I am having an issue with a brand new Epson 8350 I am using.


It is ceiling mounted shooting about 13 feet to a 100inch Elite Acoustical Transparent Screen. As shown in the picture below (screen shot taken from a xbox game) I am getting vertical lines appearing in all of the pictures the projector produces (the pic below is not the greatest but gives you the idea of the problem).


The lines are horrible when showing white or bright colors. They appear when I have the projector in perfect focus. If I move the lens out of focus the slightest amount the lines disappear. They remain when zooming in and out (although the orientation of the lines change when zooming in and out).


I ruled out video source (happens on both xbox, fios box, and laptop). I ruled out cabling (tried 3 different HDMI on each projector HDMI input). Even remains when displaying the grid (blue alignment screen) on the screen with no inputs plugged in.


Called Epson and they concluded it was a defective unit. I received a replacement and the lines are still present but not nearly as bad as the first unit.


Any ideas what it could be? I would have thought the Epson tech on the phone would have pointed me to some kind of setting on the unit if that was the issue. Am I just unlucky to have 2 bad units in a row?


Thanks for any help!

Ryan


----------



## kumanzc

screen maybe?


----------



## rccarps2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kumanzc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23245588
> 
> 
> screen maybe?




I considered the screen but the lines disappear when moving the picture in and out of focus. Plus the direction of the lines change orientation when zooming in and out. For example they are nearly verticle in the picture i posted, but if I zoom the lens out or in the lines will rotate nearly horizontal.


Ryan


----------



## kumanzc

I figured the screen was a longshot but 2 in a row with an issue that I haven't read about yet on this thread seems like it has to be something other than the projector but looks like you have ruled out most everything else. Have you tried another power source?


----------



## MississippiMan

It is the screen Guys.


Morie effect...and absolutely it will change with focus and zoom alterations. The pattern of weave / holes is aligning with the vertical pixel grid of the Display, and accentuating it because the PJ's bright light also causes the casting of shadows within /on the edges of every vertical opening.


Prove it to yourself. Go get a White Pillowcase or any other sizable, smooth white surface and hang it in the center of the screen.


----------



## kumanzc

woohoo! What do I win?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23244528
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> 
> I'm currently on the fence between the 8350 and Panasonic AR100U. Now I'm confused!!! Is the 8350 really that much better than the AR100U in a darkened room?



Don't be confused. The 8350's ability to convey deeper contrast is well known. The AR100U's brightness works against such...and in your circumstance would be even harder pressed with all those white reflective surfaces. Nothing worse than having the entire pitch dark room light up when a brighter scene comes on.


Now that is going to happen to an extent with ANY PJ if your room surfaces remain as they are, so get used to that idea. But a PJ that has better Contrast specifications will always show a better image under adverse circumstances than one that has lessor contrast, or whose brightness only serves to exacerbate such an issue.


As for the issues you see mentioned (Dust & Lamp) all I can say to that is out of over 20 -8350s I've been associated with, only two ever had Lamp replacements prior to 2500 hours, and none have ever had Dust blobs or Discolored Panel issues. One got "lightning zapped" and it's HDMI Inputs were fried. But that's it. The expensive JVCs I've installed? Horrible PITA-s !

I don't even do JVC anymore.










It's been said before...on this, the Worlds largest A/V Forum, one that gets by far the most links to via searches, that a disproportionate number of unhappy Owners wind up finding it as a place to express their woes. But that amounts to only "Tens of Tens"...not even close to Hundreds.


That said, your mileage may vary. I can only encourage you to go for it, and accept that Epson's Customer Service is still rated among the Industry's best, and by purchasing a unit new means you at least start out fresh...not refurbished. You can pick it up New locally? Why are you still standing there?







If it's bogus out of the Box...it goes immediately back. If it's pristine...just keep the Filters clean, treat it with respect by installing it properly and usinging it appropriately, and you'll get your money's worth out of it, believe me.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kumanzc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23245739
> 
> 
> woohoo! What do I win?



Whatever is left over.


----------



## GTA Beancounter

Thanks MississippiMan

I'll give it a shot.... construction will be done in about 4 weeks and I'll post my thoughts on it then.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rccarps2*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23245548
> 
> 
> Hey guys! Been lurking here for a while. In the process of finishing my basement. A portion of it I am making into a rec/media room.
> 
> 
> I am having an issue with a brand new Epson 8350 I am using.
> 
> 
> It is ceiling mounted shooting about 13 feet to a 100inch Elite Acoustical Transparent Screen. As shown in the picture below (screen shot taken from a xbox game) I am getting vertical lines appearing in all of the pictures the projector produces (the pic below is not the greatest but gives you the idea of the problem).
> 
> 
> The lines are horrible when showing white or bright colors. They appear when I have the projector in perfect focus. If I move the lens out of focus the slightest amount the lines disappear. They remain when zooming in and out (although the orientation of the lines change when zooming in and out).
> 
> 
> I ruled out video source (happens on both xbox, fios box, and laptop). I ruled out cabling (tried 3 different HDMI on each projector HDMI input). Even remains when displaying the grid (blue alignment screen) on the screen with no inputs plugged in.
> 
> 
> Called Epson and they concluded it was a defective unit. I received a replacement and the lines are still present but not nearly as bad as the first unit.



Unfortunately if the lines are not as bad with the new one then chances are it is not as sharp as your first one!!


I am pretty sure any other 1080p projector from the same distance and the same zoom will show the same problem. The sharper the worse!! Maybe one with a higher pixel fill would have less moire?


Good luck!

Salem


----------



## Nme123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTPC_Dude*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22820952
> 
> 
> Yep, worked great. It was easy, just follow his instructions, I also posted a few weeks back with some additional comments. If my projector develops dust blobs again I know what to do now. I don't know if the dust was in the projector from the factory or accumulated after running (I have less than 300 hrs so far). If from the factory then I would not expect to have any further issues.




Thanks Dude, appreciate your reply


----------



## bradtn

Hi guys I am soon to be a new Epson 8350 owner and wanted to ask some advice please and thank you. I am going to be projecting on my wall in my room and the wall measures 11 feet and half inch by 6ft 9 inches. Along the bottom 11and a half inch part of the wall is a 4.5 inch baseboard/trim. My goal was to use the entire wall corner to corner screen size. The projector is gonna be hooked up to HTPC is this something i can actually do? corner to corner screen? or should my screen but slightly smaller to adhere to 16:9 standards? I wanna utilize every mm of the wall i can for screen but not without adhering to proper 16:9 for media and game playing. Thanks for your time and suggestions


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradtn*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23248727
> 
> 
> Hi guys I am soon to be a new Epson 8350 owner and wanted to ask some advice please and thank you. I am going to be projecting on my wall in my room and the wall measures 11 feet and half inch by 6ft 9 inches. Along the bottom 11and a half inch part of the wall is a 4.5 inch baseboard/trim. My goal was to use the entire wall corner to corner screen size. The projector is gonna be hooked up to HTPC is this something i can actually do? corner to corner screen? or should my screen but slightly smaller to adhere to 16:9 standards? I wanna utilize every mm of the wall i can for screen but not without adhering to proper 16:9 for media and game playing. Thanks for your time and suggestions


An 11 foot wide screen that is 16x9 would be about 74 inches tall so you would pretty much be filling up your whole wall's height with very small gaps above the baseboard and below the ceiling. This screen would be over 151" diagonal though which would mean you'd have to be sitting about 17ft away to have a 40 degree viewing angle. Viewing angle can be very subjective but unless your viewing position is 20 feet away most would say the screen is too big. This is all before even considering whether the projector can manage this size screen given the length of your room which I doubt (unless your room is 20+ feet long), not to mention that you may need a high gain screen.


If you provide the distance you expect to mount the projector from the screen as well as the room characteristics (windows ?), wall color etc. you will be more likely to get some good advice.


----------



## bradtn

my sitting distance is going to be about 14 feet away. The projector is expected to be mounted maybe a few feet behind that?. Room has no windows and will be pitch black. I will be painting the wall with valpar premium interior egg white paint mixed to veil color by glidden as others have suggested. The Room is 22 feet and 3 and a half inches long and 11 and a half inch wide. I could probably spin my bed and make my sitting distance further if need be


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


I'm on my third projector since 2001.  A Sony 10HT ($8,000 MSRP) for $4,500; a Sony AW15 for $1,075 and now the Epson 8350 for also $1,075.  Each unit became more "consumer" friendly recognizing standard timings/res like 720p & 1080i/p.  They each became cheaper as well (albeit the Epson is the first 1080p panel).  I've only replaced them when bulb costs drove me to buy.  Don't shortchange the Epson - it's a fantastic unit and remember: only those with issues are complaining/commenting on here... there are a bunch o' owners who just plain love them!  As for this forum - we're the ones who are looking for help and finding it... jump in the water's great!


----------



## pagan97

It is a fantastic unit for the price. I think it is totally worth the risk for the benefits you get. I did have to send 1 unit back for green blob issue and overall poor picture. The second unit has been grand, except for the recurring, and disappearing green dust blob. I had one for a week, it went away for 4 mos. and now I have another. I can only see it when the image goes gray while the blu/dvd is loading and then it is gone. No one else notices, and it will most likely go away. If not I will send it back to Epson. They were good to deal with last time, and I got a new unit, since my first was only 2 wks old. I have a 2 yr warranty, which I extended thru square trade for another year, so I am set for another 2.3 yrs. No bulb issues. 1 auto iris error that happened when the room the unit is in was at 55 degrees F. Cleared it by off, on. Never came back. Overall, the picture cannot be beat. Minor convergence issues, but only up close. It seems all projectors have their quibbles, but Epsons are the best bang for the buck!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradtn*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23248727
> 
> 
> Hi guys I am soon to be a new Epson 8350 owner and wanted to ask some advice please and thank you. I am going to be projecting on my wall in my room and the wall measures 11 feet and half inch by 6ft 9 inches. Along the bottom 11and a half inch part of the wall is a 4.5 inch baseboard/trim. My goal was to use the entire wall corner to corner screen size. The projector is gonna be hooked up to HTPC is this something i can actually do? corner to corner screen? or should my screen but slightly smaller to adhere to 16:9 standards? I wanna utilize every mm of the wall i can for screen but not without adhering to proper 16:9 for media and game playing. Thanks for your time and suggestions



Come over to the DIY Screens Forum http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section 


Start a Thread there. We have solutions that include screens w/gain that can achieve the size your looking for.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bradtn*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23248953
> 
> 
> my sitting distance is going to be about 14 feet away. The projector is expected to be mounted maybe a few feet behind that?. Room has no windows and will be pitch black. I will be painting the wall with valpar premium interior egg white paint mixed to veil color by glidden as others have suggested. The Room is 22 feet and 3 and a half inches long and 11 and a half inch wide. I could probably spin my bed and make my sitting distance further if need be



Whoever suggested either Veil (Gray) or the use of a Eggshell sheen obviously did not put together the fact that you are contemplating a 151" screen, and /or is clueless as to the effects that sheen will have on a projected image.


There are affordable painted solutions that can accomplish your goals, some I've done personally using 700-800 lumen PJs on Screens up to a full 16' x 9', however there are certain criteria and methods that must be met and followed. You cannot effectively accomplish want your trying to get by grabbing a Roller and a simple can of gray paint.


As stated, these directed questions and their answers need to be addressed on DIY Screens, then if your answers come and your project is successful, your returning here with valuable input can benefit many others.


----------



## bradtn

Ok I re-iterated my post there as directed thanks


Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 2


----------



## sammajidi

Hello AVS members,


I have been rocking an 8350 for over a year now without any issues. My first projector and I am really enjoying it!


Right now I have it sitting on a desk about 16ft away from the wall.


Finally time to invest in some electrical and cabling to mount properly on the ceiling. I have no experience and have spent some time reading through AVS trying to better understand what I am getting into. I have used both Epson's Calculator and Screen Innovations calculator to help determine mounting options.


My room is 21ft long and 12ft wide. The ceiling is 8.5ft high.


I am after the largest screen size possible in this room... primary purpose of PJ will be gaming and movies. I am thinking 133 or 150"... however not sure if I can pull it off.


Right now, projecting on the wall... I am over 150". not the best quality... but for my purposes, it works well. the dramatic picture makes up for slight PQ loss.


With the investment in wiring and a real screen... I will want and hopefully get, much better PQ.


Would appreciate some advice on screen size and PJ mounting position. These are my main questions... how big of a picture can I get? Will the projector really have to hang 3ft down from the ceiling as my research is showing? Where is the optimal PJ mount position for a big picture?


I am pretty open to any and all ideas... I am looking at monoprice's 133" & 150" fixed and motorized screens... price is awesome! .8 gain on the grey and 1.0 on the white. again... something I am not very experienced in.


Thanks for any and all advice!




Sam


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sammajidi*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23255565
> 
> 
> Hello AVS members,
> 
> 
> I have been rocking an 8350 for over a year now without any issues. My first projector and I am really enjoying it!
> 
> 
> Right now I have it sitting on a desk about 16ft away from the wall.
> 
> 
> Finally time to invest in some electrical and cabling to mount properly on the ceiling. I have no experience and have spent some time reading through AVS trying to better understand what I am getting into. I have used both Epson's Calculator and Screen Innovations calculator to help determine mounting options.
> 
> 
> My room is 21ft long and 12ft wide. The ceiling is 8.5ft high.
> 
> 
> I am after the largest screen size possible in this room... primary purpose of PJ will be gaming and movies. I am thinking 133 or 150"... however not sure if I can pull it off.
> 
> 
> Right now, projecting on the wall... I am over 150". not the best quality... but for my purposes, it works well. the dramatic picture makes up for slight PQ loss.
> 
> 
> With the investment in wiring and a real screen... I will want and hopefully get, much better PQ.
> 
> 
> Would appreciate some advice on screen size and PJ mounting position. These are my main questions... how big of a picture can I get? Will the projector really have to hang 3ft down from the ceiling as my research is showing? Where is the optimal PJ mount position for a big picture?
> 
> 
> I am pretty open to any and all ideas... I am looking at monoprice's 133" & 150" fixed and motorized screens... price is awesome! .8 gain on the grey and 1.0 on the white. again... something I am not very experienced in.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all advice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sam



How far from the screen will you be sitting? The white 1.0 will give you a slightly brighter image since your going to such a large screen. There are several distance calculators out there that can give you a real screen size to distance estimate but it sounds like you might get better all around results sticking around 130" or so inches unless you are planning on going all the way back 21' with your seats.


----------



## dolphinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sammajidi*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23255565
> 
> 
> Hello AVS members,
> 
> 
> I have been rocking an 8350 for over a year now without any issues. My first projector and I am really enjoying it!
> 
> 
> Right now I have it sitting on a desk about 16ft away from the wall.
> 
> 
> Finally time to invest in some electrical and cabling to mount properly on the ceiling. I have no experience and have spent some time reading through AVS trying to better understand what I am getting into. I have used both Epson's Calculator and Screen Innovations calculator to help determine mounting options.
> 
> 
> My room is 21ft long and 12ft wide. The ceiling is 8.5ft high.
> 
> 
> I am after the largest screen size possible in this room... primary purpose of PJ will be gaming and movies. I am thinking 133 or 150"... however not sure if I can pull it off.
> 
> 
> Right now, projecting on the wall... I am over 150". not the best quality... but for my purposes, it works well. the dramatic picture makes up for slight PQ loss.
> 
> 
> With the investment in wiring and a real screen... I will want and hopefully get, much better PQ.
> 
> 
> Would appreciate some advice on screen size and PJ mounting position. These are my main questions... how big of a picture can I get? Will the projector really have to hang 3ft down from the ceiling as my research is showing? Where is the optimal PJ mount position for a big picture?
> 
> 
> I am pretty open to any and all ideas... I am looking at monoprice's 133" & 150" fixed and motorized screens... price is awesome! .8 gain on the grey and 1.0 on the white. again... something I am not very experienced in.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all advice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sam



How far from the screen will you be sitting? The white 1.0 will give you a slightly brighter image since your going to such a large screen. There are several distance calculators out there that can give you a real screen size to distance estimate but it sounds like you might get better all around results sticking around 130" or so inches unless you are planning on going all the way back 21' with your seats.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sammajidi*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23255565
> 
> 
> Hello AVS members,
> 
> 
> I have been rocking an 8350 for over a year now without any issues. My first projector and I am really enjoying it!
> 
> 
> Right now I have it sitting on a desk about 16ft away from the wall.
> 
> 
> Finally time to invest in some electrical and cabling to mount properly on the ceiling. I have no experience and have spent some time reading through AVS trying to better understand what I am getting into. I have used both Epson's Calculator and Screen Innovations calculator to help determine mounting options.
> 
> 
> My room is 21ft long and 12ft wide. The ceiling is 8.5ft high.
> 
> 
> I am after the largest screen size possible in this room... primary purpose of PJ will be gaming and movies. I am thinking 133 or 150"... however not sure if I can pull it off.
> 
> 
> Right now, projecting on the wall... I am over 150". not the best quality... but for my purposes, it works well. the dramatic picture makes up for slight PQ loss.
> 
> 
> With the investment in wiring and a real screen... I will want and hopefully get, much better PQ.
> 
> 
> Would appreciate some advice on screen size and PJ mounting position. These are my main questions... how big of a picture can I get? Will the projector really have to hang 3ft down from the ceiling as my research is showing? Where is the optimal PJ mount position for a big picture?
> 
> 
> I am pretty open to any and all ideas... I am looking at monoprice's 133" & 150" fixed and motorized screens... price is awesome! .8 gain on the grey and 1.0 on the white. again... something I am not very experienced in.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all advice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sam



Try plugging in your numbers in this calc, made by one of AVS's gurus. http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ You'll be able to get some distance/screen info and also see the difference in how brightness will be affected as well. Mounted at the closest, 14' 11" away, onto a 150" and using a 1.3 gain screen, looks like you'll still need to run the pj in high lamp mode and still only get around 13fl's on a new bulb, dropping down to about 10fl's after around 500 hrs on the bulb? 13.3' feet away on a 133" 1.3 gain screen might be better, getting you around 13fl's in low lamp mode and around 17fl's in high mode.


Generally, closer the pj is mounted to the screen, the brighter the image, and further away will usually equal to better contrast, however the brightness will suffer some especially when your trying to light up a screen of 150". With the lens shift capabilities of the pj, you shouldn't need to mount it as far down as 3'. You should be able to mount it just about as close to the ceiling as you want.


----------



## horseflesh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sammajidi*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23255565
> 
> 
> My room is 21ft long and 12ft wide. The ceiling is 8.5ft high.
> 
> ...
> 
> Would appreciate some advice on screen size and PJ mounting position. These are my main questions... how big of a picture can I get? Will the projector really have to hang 3ft down from the ceiling as my research is showing? Where is the optimal PJ mount position for a big picture?



I have a 14 ft wide room that is about 20 ft deep, but my ceiling is only 8 ft. My 8350 is about 14 ft from a 135" screen. The bottom of the screen is about 22" from the floor. That is not a lot of space.... you could fit a 150" wide screen, but you would not have much space under the screen for components. That may not matter in your room, it does in mine. I had to find a very low table else my 8" tall center channel would be in the image. Your room is taller than mine though, which will help.


Also, you will not need to drop the PJ 3 feet from the ceiling. Mine is about 6" down, the absolute minimum the mount allows, and has PLENTY of lens shift to do the job. Of course, it is a good idea to make the PJ as centered as you can, since the horizontal/vertical shift amounts are tied together.


If it helps, I have a cheap ebay Antra screen with 1.1 gain, and in a light-controlled room the Epson's dimmer Cinema mode, with the dim Eco lamp setting, still makes for a nice picture at 135".


Hope this helps.


----------



## IRJ

I am looking at an 8350 for my nxt projector and this thread has invaluable help. Just so I can do all my due diligence what are the rivals to this projector In terms of picture and build quality and priced under $1,500\ and why have users here gone with the 8350? Thanks.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IRJ*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23261880
> 
> 
> I am looking at an 8350 for my nxt projector and this thread has invaluable help. Just so I can do all my due diligence what are the rivals to this projector In terms of picture and build quality and priced under $1,500\ and why have users here gone with the 8350? Thanks.




That's the thing.....there are really no PJs that have the 8350's complete feature set and lumen output at it's current price point.


The are a few that are almost /are as bright as...or brighter. And some without Lens Shift that produce better black levels (DLPs primarily)


What really needs to be determined as being best for you personally is the Room's use, build, lighting, and Screen size / make-up.


Those are what really determine a give PJ's usefulness and value to a end user overall. Relate some facts concerning your given circumstances and we'll see what sakes out.


----------



## F12Bwth

The lens shift is the BIG selling point. After that the specs are at or beyond the competition. I would never say this baby isn't bright enough and the blacks are above average for the price range. I just recommend a grey screen for the added blacks and it looks marvelous.


----------



## evlo

Well i found out, that in my case the 1px misconvergence on red is caused by lensshift ... if i shift up it is ok, if i shift down it is messed up.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IRJ*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8040#post_23261880
> 
> 
> I am looking at an 8350 for my nxt projector and this thread has invaluable help. Just so I can do all my due diligence what are the rivals to this projector In terms of picture and build quality and priced under $1,500\ and why have users here gone with the 8350? Thanks.



What Mississippi said, there are a couple that come up first, Benq 1070, shorter throw 3D DLP around $900 on sale with limited placement flexibility, and the Epson 8350 2D lcd with great placement flexibility with it's lens shift range. Some breakdowns, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1391476/coderguys-top-projector-picks The Viewsonic pro8200 might be a consideration at around $700, 2D DLP if you just can't spend anymore.


----------



## jjvsx53

I cannot think of anything wrong with our pj. Images are crisp, colors are dark, If you care of anamorphic lense I have yet to find the solution or universal mount that would fit at a not so costly price. I love this pj! It's very quet. My first pj was a epson705hd it did its job but it was terribly loud. I cannot even tell this thing is on.

Out of the box you will already see crisp images but if you have OCD like most of us than tweaking you will be doing. From what I hear the room plays a whole lot in the numbers set for colors so a universal set of values aren't good. So one say If I haven't bought the p5020 by then I'd get someone to ISf calibrate my Pj. It's a bummer there isn't 3Dmost people can do without but I want to experience the hype and watch it on my 100" screen. Cross fingers ill save for it.

Good luck I'm sure you will love this projector nothing comes close as to picture, quietness, clarity etc. I've tried them all! This is the one to get!


----------



## sammajidi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dolphinc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23255875
> 
> 
> How far from the screen will you be sitting? The white 1.0 will give you a slightly brighter image since your going to such a large screen. There are several distance calculators out there that can give you a real screen size to distance estimate but it sounds like you might get better all around results sticking around 130" or so inches unless you are planning on going all the way back 21' with your seats.



Very good point... seating from 15ft... I am already pushed the limits if eye/neck comfort... however I spend more time behind the computer desk... that is a good 19ft back... x-large screen makes for some dramatic FPS's & Forza! Thanks _dolphinc_!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23256859
> 
> 
> Try plugging in your numbers in this calc, made by one of AVS's gurus. http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ You'll be able to get some distance/screen info and also see the difference in how brightness will be affected as well. Mounted at the closest, 14' 11" away, onto a 150" and using a 1.3 gain screen, looks like you'll still need to run the pj in high lamp mode and still only get around 13fl's on a new bulb, dropping down to about 10fl's after around 500 hrs on the bulb? 13.3' feet away on a 133" 1.3 gain screen might be better, getting you around 13fl's in low lamp mode and around 17fl's in high mode.
> 
> 
> Generally, closer the pj is mounted to the screen, the brighter the image, and further away will usually equal to better contrast, however the brightness will suffer some especially when your trying to light up a screen of 150". With the lens shift capabilities of the pj, you shouldn't need to mount it as far down as 3'. You should be able to mount it just about as close to the ceiling as you want.



I used this one as well, Very helpful! thank you _jnabq_! I am still trying to learn all the details. Yes... the more I look at it, the more 130" range looks like best trade-off between x-large size and PQ.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *horseflesh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8000_100#post_23259152
> 
> 
> I have a 14 ft wide room that is about 20 ft deep, but my ceiling is only 8 ft. My 8350 is about 14 ft from a 135" screen. The bottom of the screen is about 22" from the floor. That is not a lot of space.... you could fit a 150" wide screen, but you would not have much space under the screen for components. That may not matter in your room, it does in mine. I had to find a very low table else my 8" tall center channel would be in the image. Your room is taller than mine though, which will help.
> 
> 
> Also, you will not need to drop the PJ 3 feet from the ceiling. Mine is about 6" down, the absolute minimum the mount allows, and has PLENTY of lens shift to do the job. Of course, it is a good idea to make the PJ as centered as you can, since the horizontal/vertical shift amounts are tied together.
> 
> 
> If it helps, I have a cheap ebay Antra screen with 1.1 gain, and in a light-controlled room the Epson's dimmer Cinema mode, with the dim Eco lamp setting, still makes for a nice picture at 135".
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Yes, very helpful comparison... thank you _horseflesh_! Right now I have the picture top out maybe 6" from the ceiling... that leaves me about 32" from floor to picture... add a fixed frame and that will be even bigger. Your right on about the center channel... my center is almost 24" including stand.




so far 903 hours on original bulb... first bulb on first projector, so I have no PJ experience... but the picture is outstanding. purchased from BB on sale at a great price... what a bargain with respect to picture size/quality/$$$. I am really impressed by PQ/size and ease of use so far.


Thanks again to everyone that took a few minutes to help out!


----------



## DekPM19

Wat is the best screen to use with this projector. I am just starting to read up on PJ and I want between a 100" to 120".

Allen


----------



## horseflesh

Asking for the "best screen" is like asking what the "best TV" is. It depends on your needs and budget.


For me, the best screen was a cheap eBay retractable unit. Perhaps I am spoiled by NOT knowing what a multi-thousand dollar screen looks like, but I am happy with it.


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *horseflesh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23267259
> 
> 
> Asking for the "best screen" is like asking what the "best TV" is. It depends on your needs and budget.
> 
> 
> For me, the best screen was a cheap eBay retractable unit. Perhaps I am spoiled by NOT knowing what a multi-thousand dollar screen looks like, but I am happy with it.



+1


Same here!


Ed


----------



## DekPM19




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *horseflesh*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23267259
> 
> 
> Asking for the "best screen" is like asking what the "best TV" is. It depends on your needs and budget.
> 
> 
> For me, the best screen was a cheap eBay retractable unit. Perhaps I am spoiled by NOT knowing what a multi-thousand dollar screen looks like, but I am happy with it.



Well I know nothing about screens so I thought I would ask. I am looking for the cheapest screen that will give me the best 2d from this projector. It will be a fix screen mounted on the wall. I just have no idear what grain or anything to go with.

Allen


----------



## kumanzc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DekPM19*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23267917
> 
> 
> Well I know nothing about screens so I thought I would ask. I am looking for the cheapest screen that will give me the best 2d from this projector. It will be a fix screen mounted on the wall. I just have no idear what grain or anything to go with.
> 
> Allen



I have a 110" EliteSable screen. I have no complaints at all with it and think it gives a great picture.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DekPM19*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23265029
> 
> 
> Wat is the best screen to use with this projector. I am just starting to read up on PJ and I want between a 100" to 120".
> 
> Allen



I use the Elite Screen with the sable frame, 92". It was around 200 on amazon and is perfect for my needs. My room is 16x11, pj is about 14' ft back, shelf mounted. Works and looks great!


----------



## DekPM19

Thanks does sable tell you the grain of the screen

Allen


----------



## DekPM19

I see sable is the frame

Cine white is the type of screen


----------



## danw111

I use an Elite Electric 100H, which has a matte white surface (gain = 1.1). My viewing distance is 9 feet, and the 8350 is 12.9 feet from the screen.


I run the projector in the Cinema mode in ECO and used the Disney WOW disc to calibrate. The walls and ceiling in this dedicated home theater room are painted medium dark blue using flat paint.


I use this set-up for movies and some sports and retract the screen to use a 50" Panasonic plasma for everyday viewing. PQ is comparable, with the plasma having a definite edge with respect to blacks.


The performance of the projector-screen system in this room is excellent (based on 2 months of use). Brightness is very good and clarity/sharpness is excellent. The image shows about one-half pixel misalignment at the right edge, which is not noticeable in movie images.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DekPM19*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23268879
> 
> 
> Thanks does sable tell you the grain of the screen
> 
> Allen



Yes, they do. The CineWhite is 1.1. Check out the Elite Screen website.

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57&catid=12&Itemid=20&lang=en


----------



## Lebreeze

My 8350 just started making some strange grinding noise. Its only doing it periodically, sounds like its coming maybe from the fan. Any ideas?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DekPM19*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23267917
> 
> 
> 
> Well I know nothing about screens so I thought I would ask. I am looking for the cheapest screen that will give me the best 2d from this projector. It will be a fix screen mounted on the wall. I just have no idear what grain or anything to go with.
> 
> Allen


I thought the Elite ezFrame Fixed looks nice. White if light controlled room (dark room), maybe Grey if not and/or use for day-time viewing.


----------



## DekPM19




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danw111*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23270506
> 
> 
> I use an Elite Electric 100H, which has a matte white surface (gain = 1.1). My viewing distance is 9 feet, and the 8350 is 12.9 feet from the screen.
> 
> 
> I run the projector in the Cinema mode in ECO and used the Disney WOW disc to calibrate. The walls and ceiling in this dedicated home theater room are painted medium dark blue using flat paint.
> 
> 
> I use this set-up for movies and some sports and retract the screen to use a 50" Panasonic plasma for everyday viewing. PQ is comparable, with the plasma having a definite edge with respect to blacks.
> 
> 
> The performance of the projector-screen system in this room is excellent (based on 2 months of use). Brightness is very good and clarity/sharpness is excellent. The image shows about one-half pixel misalignment at the right edge, which is not noticeable in movie images.



Thanks now I need to find the colors to paint my ceiling and walls.

Allen


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lebreeze*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23272636
> 
> 
> My 8350 just started making some strange grinding noise. Its only doing it periodically, sounds like its coming maybe from the fan. Any ideas?



Try turning off the iris, if the sound goes away, then you found the issue. A call to support would be necessary, if you want to keep using the iris feature.


----------



## Scaffold

I realized I hadn't posted back in this thread since March 15th when I had mentioned I had an issue with my PJ (8350 refurb) and was getting an exchange. They cross shipped my 8350 and although dealing with Epson customer service was a bit hard on the head, they got it to me pretty quickly and this unit is great. Going strong now at around 141 hours on my lamp. Next steps are for me to play with the settings to try and get the picture just right for my room, and I'm about to purchase a new AVR and fronts to start off my new surround system to go with it.


Currently my setup is really crude, I've taken my 360 and ps3 downstairs but since I don't have a receiver I was manually changing RCA cables to get audio from my Logitech x-530s. You can understand why I'm making the new AVR setup a priority over painting my walls or getting a screen (or better yet even cleaning the recroom). I can definitely get through a few more months casting my PJ onto my beige colored wall while saving up for more upgrades.


The wife loves it even more than I do, and at first she gave the impression she wasn't even interested in it! So far most of our content is Netflix US, and I've been watching Game of Thrones in 720p. Can't wait to get Bluray going in surround!


----------



## ClemsonKev

Hey guys... I've decided to upgrade to a 3D unit. If you or any of your friends/family would like an 8350, contact me or visit my ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300901305440 


thanks!


----------



## NickTF

Well the second replacement bulb Epson sent me under warranty failed in a whopping 950 hours. I am now out of the two year warranty to I bought my first bulb out of pocket which was from Bulbamerica. Their description is as follows: "Epson V13H010L49 Projector Assembly with 200 Watt UHE Osram Projector Bulb". Is this bulb any different than the E-Torl bulb the manual refers to? The price was $195 so it was not one of these "$50 magic bulbs" floating around on the internet. I called Epson support to inquire if they had come up with a better replacement for the constant early failures associated with this unit and they indicated they had resolved the issue with their supplier and had not been getting calls about premature bulb failures any longer. I'm pretty sure he would have told me my cat is made of gold to get me off the phone however. Regardless, I hope this new bulb holds out. As I reported during the previous failure I have since added a battery backup and the last bulb, which failed the earliest of the 3 I might add, had never seen a premature shutoff unlike the ones before it. It is ridiculous to indicate expected life in the 3000-4000 range and to end up constantly with 900-1500 hours of use before failure. I certainly hope the next bulb gets me more than this unacceptable duration of use. I commend Epson for standing behind their issue with an extended warranty but that does not fix the issue once the warranty expires and I like many purchased this unit based off of its long advertised lamp duration.


----------



## truhunk

Hi guys. I have owned the 8350 for about a month now. Cant complain for the price. I had actually bought a JVC for 2.5x the price but found it was too dark, so I exchanged it for this Epson and I like the Epson better in most cases. Anyway, I calibrated using Art's numbers, but the numbers are different for Cinema and for Dynamic. The RGB numbers are the problem. He says to save under "user one" and " user two". But I cant find user one or user two anywhere in the menu. Do you know where or what he is talking about ? Thanks.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truhunk*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23314762
> 
> 
> He says to save under "user one" and " user two". But I cant find user one or user two anywhere in the menu. Do you know where or what he is talking about ? Thanks.


Sounds like he just means ... saving current presets to Memory locations 1, 2 , etc.


----------



## Fazil Mehmood

hey guys , i just got my epson 8350 tested it out on white wall got to say its a beast.But i am new to the projector stuff so i need your gus help.since my projector is going to be wall mounted so i tested the projection screen from the place where the projector is going to be mounted the distance is about 11.9ft.Thing is i don't know much about the zoom thing etc (actually most of the things







)


1 - the zoom thing on the front ,should i keep it at max and how should i find out on what zoom my projector is since the throw range is 11,9ft

2- i really want to get a bigger projection screen then 120 so can anyone tell me which throw range should i keep my projector and what about the zoom at the front should i keep it completely 0.


help me out please.i haven't learnt much from this link but still it helped me alot but still i really want to know about the zoom thing.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8700_UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm 


sorry about my english


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fazil Mehmood*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23324175
> 
> 
> hey guys , i just got my epson 8350 tested it out on white wall got to say its a beast.But i am new to the projector stuff so i need your gus help.since my projector is going to be wall mounted so i tested the projection screen from the place where the projector is going to be mounted the distance is about 11.9ft.Thing is i don't know much about the zoom thing etc (actually most of the things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 1 - the zoom thing on the front ,should i keep it at max and how should i find out on what zoom my projector is since the throw range is 11,9ft
> 
> 2- i really want to get a bigger projection screen then 120 so can anyone tell me which throw range should i keep my projector and what about the zoom at the front should i keep it completely 0.
> 
> 
> help me out please.i haven't learnt much from this link but still it helped me alot but still i really want to know about the zoom thing.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8700_UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> 
> sorry about my english


 

Welcome to the forum and our thread.

 

Try the calculator at epson.com . There is also a chart in English PDF manual. It will give the picture size range (using mechanical optical lens zoom ring) for your distance. You can really think of "lens zoom ring" .as "picture size" I think.

 

I'm pretty sure you can zoom as much as you want, as long as it still focuses sharp/perfect (but in your case, it's limited by close distance). If moving the projector was an option (to hit your ideal final screen size) yes, I would center the ring first and then find your distance. The zoom ring would then just be a "picture size fine tunning". Don't go too big (especially if room is not light controlled or very dark) because the further back you go the dimmer it gets.

 

The Aspect Zoom in projector program settings is something different. I keep that on Normal as to not distort the true Aspect Ratio. If there are other pixel mapping settings, keep those on 1:1, Actual, Normal ... something like that. If using HDMI, those settings often don't apply anyway (which is a good thing). You will get 720p (upscalled to 1080p) or true native 1080p ... all in the original or true aspect ratio.


----------



## Fazil Mehmood

thank you so much for the quick reply .


after reading you comment and reading about the zoom thing on different sites;keeping the zoom as low as you will give you brighter and better image.so a 120" from 11,9ft won't be a bad move ? since the room can be made completely dark.i can move the projector back till 22ft..i was thinkin to move it back to 19ft since there is a bracket + power cord already available there..any suggestions ?


----------



## kevinwoodward

measure your picture on the wall from where you are mounting it and see if it can be 120

i don't think from 11.9 you can get it to 120


i am about 12 feet and had to go with 106


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8070#post_23327011
> 
> 
> measure your picture on the wall from where you are mounting it and see if it can be 120
> 
> i don't think from 11.9 you can get it to 120
> 
> 
> i am about 12 feet and had to go with 106



11' 9" is the absolute minimum throw for 120", and should *NEVER* be used. 12' 6" is safe, and allows for a small degree of Zoom potential for Frame Formatting issues.


----------



## Fazil Mehmood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23327365
> 
> 
> 11' 9" is the absolute minimum throw for 120", and should *NEVER* be used. 12' 6" is safe, and allows for a small degree of Zoom potential for Frame Formatting issues.



well if i am going to move it from 11,9 ft then it will go back to 19ft ( got a big a** fan mounted







) ..will it be good enough ? i think the image won't be brighter.


----------



## kevinwoodward

I must be further away then or I zoomed down...

maybe I could have fit the 120 in my 12 by 14 room !!!


----------



## VTGOLFER

Hey everyone,


I just purchased and took delivery of the Epson 8350. This will be my first attempt at setting up a projection system. I also purchased and received the 106" Elite VMAX2 electric screen with a 24" black bar at top. My ceilings are 10 ft. high so the top of the viewing screen should be around 92 inches and the bottom around 40 inches.


The only issues I see and hopefully the experts here can help me out with is that I have to mount my projector on the back wall on a shelf. I live in an apartment and can not ceiling mount. The distance from the projector lens to the screen will be around 18 feet give or take a few inches. I have black out drapes and will have a pretty good handle on ambient light. I will also be mounting the projector right side up or on its feet at 7 feet in the air. Will the vertical lens shift enable me to mount this high and project down some or do I need to turn the projector upside down? What will be the cons on mounting the projector 18 feet back?


Any other suggestions? I am very new to the projector scene and I'm excited but nervous as well. Any initial set up suggestions would help as well. I plan on mounting the screen first and then the projector but not sure the exact route to take.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## eyekode

The Epson manual lists the exact range but my guess is you are fine as you are only using vertical shift. However if you only have one row of seating you may find 40" too high.

Good luck!

Salem


----------



## VTGOLFER

I do have only 1 row of seating and after measuring tonight it looks like the bottom of the screen will be 37 inches from the floor. My throw distance will be 17'9" and I am going to place the projector on a mount about 7 feet high. The top of the screen will be 92" high which places the projector about 8 inches down from the top of the screen. Will I be ok with this projector on its feet and not upside down with these dimensions?


I'm pretty nervous undertaking this project on Thursday and hopefully everything works out.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23342427
> 
> 
> I do have only 1 row of seating and after measuring tonight it looks like the bottom of the screen will be 37 inches from the floor. My throw distance will be 17'9" and I am going to place the projector on a mount about 7 feet high. The top of the screen will be 92" high which places the projector about 8 inches down from the top of the screen. Will I be ok with this projector on its feet and not upside down with these dimensions?
> 
> 
> I'm pretty nervous undertaking this project on Thursday and hopefully everything works out.



The manual says for a 100" screen the top or bottom edge can be ~22" below or above the lens respectively. This assumes you don't need any horizontal lens shift. Your parameters are within this window, I think you will be fine.


By the way my screen is 26" off the floor and I sit 13' back. It used to be 36" from the floor and I much prefer the new height as I found looking up uncomfortable. Good luck!

Salem


----------



## F12Bwth

Well been using my 8350 once or twice a week for a few hours every week since this November and for the first since the initial setup have I had to make calibration adjustments. Just started noticing everything was too bright and the colors slightly washed out. Took the brightness from +4 to +1 and lowered the contrast from +2 to +1.. Also shifted Skin Tone from 2 to 1 and for the first time had to tweak the focus ring.


What an amazing difference. I suggest everyone re-evaluate their calibrations every few months.


----------



## VTGOLFER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23343185
> 
> 
> The manual says for a 100" screen the top or bottom edge can be ~22" below or above the lens respectively. This assumes you don't need any horizontal lens shift. Your parameters are within this window, I think you will be fine.
> 
> 
> By the way my screen is 26" off the floor and I sit 13' back. It used to be 36" from the floor and I much prefer the new height as I found looking up uncomfortable. Good luck!
> 
> Salem



Thanks eyekode,


How well do you think it will work with a 17' throw distance with a little ambient light. I will be able to knock most of the ambient light down with the 100% black out curtains I just put up.


Thanks


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23344851
> 
> 
> Thanks eyekode,
> 
> 
> How well do you think it will work with a 17' throw distance with a little ambient light. I will be able to knock most of the ambient light down with the 100% black out curtains I just put up.
> 
> 
> Thanks



105" at 17' is toward the telephoto end so you will loose some light. But I think you will be ok. Mine is at 14' or so and 105" screen too and I can run in Eco mode.

Any ambient light that hits the screen will reduce contrast but that is the nature of the screen.

Salem


----------



## VTGOLFER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23345147
> 
> 
> 105" at 17' is toward the telephoto end so you will loose some light. But I think you will be ok. Mine is at 14' or so and 105" screen too and I can run in Eco mode.
> 
> Any ambient light that hits the screen will reduce contrast but that is the nature of the screen.
> 
> Salem



Thanks,


Just moved all the AV gear and I am going to be at 17'9" exactly for a throw distance. My ambient light should be ok. I put up the black out drapes and hung them thick but I have a little light leakage on the ends. Hopefully not much but I can probably find a fix hopefully for day time viewing. Worse come to worse I will just put up a 50 inch LED on my side wall with a adjustable mount to swivel and use that for most day watching. Heck, my wife could care less about audio. Yeah I know they could all care less. lol


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23345846
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Just moved all the AV gear and I am going to be at 17'9" exactly for a throw distance. My ambient light should be ok. I put up the black out drapes and hung them thick but I have a little light leakage on the ends. Hopefully not much but I can probably find a fix hopefully for day time viewing. Worse come to worse I will just put up a 50 inch LED on my side wall with a adjustable mount to swivel and use that for most day watching. Heck, my wife could care less about audio. Yeah I know they could all care less. lol



I did almost exactly the same. 50" plasma on an adjacent wall. It is good for the wife as she doesn't like watching TV in the dark!
 

Please excuse the mess, I am still trying to get my space finished. Yes that is an air compressor under the screen







. And don't judge the projector image, I turned on the lights for the picture and on top of that redbox streaming quality is awful (first time I have tried it).


----------



## VTGOLFER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23345858
> 
> 
> I did almost exactly the same. 50" plasma on an adjacent wall. It is good for the wife as she doesn't like watching TV in the dark!
> 
> 
> Please excuse the mess, I am still trying to get my space finished. Yes that is an air compressor under the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And don't judge the projector image, I turned on the lights for the picture and on top of that redbox streaming quality is awful (first time I have tried it).


''


I decided tonight that I am going to buy a 47" LED Vizio for the side wall and mount it with a articulating arm mount and the kids and wife can watch it during the day. The best thing about this is I will be able to watch two channels of football, golf, basketball, etc. I can't wait for college football now. lol


----------



## VTGOLFER

OK, I got everything hooked up today including my 106" Elite VMAX2 electric screen. The screen was by far the hardest part but everything went well. I have not done any tweaking other than setting the image on the screen and focusing the image but "wow" what a nice picture. I am going to tweak a little tomorrow and see if I can improve things but improvement might be hard after seeing the picture I have now.


I wall mounted the projector with the wall shelf and the lens shift worked great. It was a little hard because I had to use just a fraction of the horizontal and I used the vertical to lower the image slightly. It seemed every time I used the vertical lens shift it would change the horizontal. Is this the case or am I doing something wrong. I finally have it pretty good but there is about a 1/2 inch adjustment at the bottom that I need to lower but it seems if I lower it the horizontal gets thrown off a little.


I will try to attach pictures later but not sure how.


----------



## eyekode

I think this is quite common. Mine does the same. But once I got it set I have not had to readjust.

Salem


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23349594
> 
> 
> I wall mounted the projector with the wall shelf and the lens shift worked great. It was a little hard because I had to use just a fraction of the horizontal and I used the vertical to lower the image slightly. It seemed every time I used the vertical lens shift it would change the horizontal. Is this the case or am I doing something wrong.



Using the lens shift function on the 8350 is kinda' like trying to draw a circle with an EtchaSketch. I don't know if it's recommended, but when my projector occasionally gets outta whack from the kids bumping into the stand it's on, I work both dials together till it comes back into alignment. Maybe not the ideal way of doing it, but it's worked everytime.


----------



## VTGOLFER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratpacker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23350039
> 
> 
> Using the lens shift function on the 8350 is kinda' like trying to
> 
> draw a circle with an EtchaSketch. I don't know if it's recommended, but when my projector occasionally gets outta whack from the kids bumping into the stand it's on, I work both dials together till it comes back into alignment. Maybe not the ideal way of doing it, but it's worked everytime.



That is what I ended up doing and it worked perfectly.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

My top left corner of the image is bent in slightly..........how did that happen?


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23353903
> 
> 
> My top left corner of the image is bent in slightly..........how did that happen?



The pj may not be perfectly level and/or parallel to the screen?


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100_100#post_23353903
> 
> 
> My top left corner of the image is bent in slightly..........how did that happen?



All the sudden or is this a new projector first setup question?


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23355803
> 
> 
> All the sudden or is this a new projector first setup question?


Well I have had it for a while but I recently had to move it a bit and now the top left is just a bit off.....but just a bit. I just can't figure out why.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23357085
> 
> 
> Well I have had it for a while but I recently had to move it a bit and now the top left is just a bit off.....but just a bit. I just can't figure out why.



Pitch & Yaw is off. Corner is down from level & in/out from the perpendicular.


The PJ's lens must be squared to the wall, both horizontally & vertically.....and level as well.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23357196
> 
> 
> Pitch & Yaw is off. Corner is down from level & in/out from the perpendicular.
> 
> 
> The PJ's lens must be squared to the wall, both horizontally & vertically.....and level as well.


Ok but im really stupid so which corner is too high or low? which way is is turned too much?


----------



## MississippiMan

If the top left is bent "inward" then that means it (...the top left corner of the lens...) is closer to the screen than the rest. And if all the other corners, most noticeably the bottom left, appear correct, the PJ/Lens is tilted forward and down toward the left. And very slightly. Otherwise you'd see even more deformation in the image.


Don't feel stew-pid. Correcting such minor format squaring issues can frustrate even experienced FP enthusiasts. And the ability to easily adjust such issues can lie squarely with the Mount's own adjust-ability.


Correcting things can be as simple as....:

*1.* Make sure the PJ is level side-to-side

*2.* Make sure the PJ is level "front -to- back"

*3.* Twist the PJ (..if mount allows for rotation) until both sides are showing straight vertical orientation.


That should do it. Beyond that, such circumstance can be due to the Screen itself being very slightly "out" at that top corner. When moving a PJ, all aspects of positioning must align corectly or there will be issues. And mis-adjustments are cumulative.


----------



## truhunk

I guess that would make sense. Thanks.


----------



## WannaKnowTech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23357621
> 
> 
> If the top left is bent "inward" then that means it (...the top left corner of the lens...) is closer to the screen than the rest. And if all the other corners, most noticeably the bottom left, appear correct, the PJ/Lens is tilted forward and down toward the left. And very slightly. Otherwise you'd see even more deformation in the image.
> 
> 
> Don't feel stew-pid. Correcting such minor format squaring issues can frustrate even experienced FP enthusiasts. And the ability to easily adjust such issues can lie squarely with the Mount's own adjust-ability.
> 
> 
> Correcting things can be as simple as....:
> 
> *1.* Make sure the PJ is level side-to-side
> 
> *2.* Make sure the PJ is level "front -to- back"
> 
> *3.* Twist the PJ (..if mount allows for rotation) until both sides are showing straight vertical orientation.
> 
> 
> That should do it. Beyond that, such circumstance can be due to the Screen itself being very slightly "out" at that top corner. When moving a PJ, all aspects of positioning must align corectly or there will be issues. And mis-adjustments are cumulative.


Thank you, turns out it was the screen all along.


----------



## Barn01

I've tried doing a google search and a search in this tread, all I seem to find is the replacement housing and bulb combo. Does anyone know what the OEM bulb only is that is used in an 8350. I'm an electronics technologist and I'm pretty sure I could change only the bulb, unless there's some trick they used? Mine is really getting dim and I fear it's about finished.


Either a model number or link would be handy .. thanks I'm guessing it's either a Phillips or Osram


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Barn01*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23370200
> 
> 
> I've tried doing a google search and a search in this tread, all I seem to find is the replacement housing and bulb combo. Does anyone know what the OEM bulb only is that is used in an 8350. I'm an electronics technologist and I'm pretty sure I could change only the bulb, unless there's some trick they used? Mine is really getting dim and I fear it's about finished.
> 
> 
> Either a model number or link would be handy .. thanks I'm guessing it's either a Phillips or Osram


I don't know the answer.

 

However, I think the part they sell "is the bulb". There are likely some good reasons why it comes like that. They control the housing (and the bulb that ends up inside it) and that insures a certain level of performance from the projector. Maybe it has to be soldered in, so the contacts/connectors are on the housing. It helps protect it while not in projector (think shipping, etc.). The housing starts new when the bulb does (prevents fires) ... stuff like that.


----------



## Grayson73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Barn01*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100_100#post_23370200
> 
> 
> I've tried doing a google search and a search in this tread, all I seem to find is the replacement housing and bulb combo. Does anyone know what the OEM bulb only is that is used in an 8350. I'm an electronics technologist and I'm pretty sure I could change only the bulb, unless there's some trick they used? Mine is really getting dim and I fear it's about finished.
> 
> 
> Either a model number or link would be handy .. thanks I'm guessing it's either a Phillips or Osram



Seems like it is V13H010L49 for the lamp and ELPLP49 for the whole thing.


----------



## Barn01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23370266
> 
> 
> I don't know the answer.
> 
> 
> However, I think the part they sell "is the bulb". There are likely some good reasons why it comes like that. They control the housing (and the bulb that ends up inside it) and that insures a certain level of performance from the projector. Maybe it has to be soldered in, so the contacts/connectors are on the housing. It helps protect it while not in projector (think shipping, etc.). The housing starts new when the bulb does (prevents fires) ... stuff like that.



The part Epson and most other resellers sell you is the bulb and housing, not just the bare bulb. The reason is because the average no techie user can just pop out the old one and pop in a new one in 5mins or less, and Epson can charge a huge premuim on selling a complete assembly rather than just a bare bulb.


The bulb blew last night and I took it apart this morning. There is no manufacturers info on the bulb other than Epson UHE 200e-c 80V made in China. So at least I know I'm looking for a Chinese manufacturer.

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/muxcontrol/media/20130530_092524.jpg.html  
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/muxcontrol/media/20130530_092624.jpg.html  
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/muxcontrol/media/20130530_092733.jpg.html


----------



## dragonbud0

Have you try eBay? The bulb is about $70.


----------



## F12Bwth

I would love to take a working bulb apart and see what could be done to convert it to LED.. I bought some 50W LED's http://i4.minus.com/iEFjcDjnPARgQ.JPG from dealextreme and other than having to cool the F__K out of it the brightness should be up to par. I just worry about the shape of the light coming out of the housing and into the rest of the projector.


----------



## jnabq

Idk, some might call conspiracy with bulb manufacturers, but don't you think if it could be done easily, they would be building 'em like that now? Heck, they would save tons of cash just on replacement and support efforts.


----------



## Tesla1856


I like to fix cars, hack electronics, fix TVs, projectors, computers, board level repair ... all that.

 

There are some simple rules for my success. One is to use the proper parts ... as close to original as possible. Just try to return the machine to it's original operating condition. If the machine doesn't get fixed (or lower performance, fails quickly again, etc.) you are just wasting your time.

 

With a projector, since the actual light is such an important part (intensity, color temp, etc.) ... I think the Epson engineers know more about what is best. They make these and have for a long time. Once you embrace that fact (with whatever it is you are fixing) you start being successful and gain some confidence.

 

Another rule I use all the time everyone knows is "Don't fix things that aren't broken". A related rule is "Don't make easy repairs hard".


----------



## Grayson73

$60 here.

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=BP00404#.Ua0EcUD2ZJI 


$65 here:

http://www.amatteroffax.com/itempagey_invid_1366425864_d_premier-epson-elplp49-replacement-lamp-bulb.html


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grayson73*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23386800
> 
> 
> $60 here.
> 
> http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=BP00404#.Ua0EcUD2ZJI
> 
> 
> $65 here:
> 
> http://www.amatteroffax.com/itempagey_invid_1366425864_d_premier-epson-elplp49-replacement-lamp-bulb.html


 

So, is the PureGlare unit closer to this (read reviews):

 

http://www.amazon.com/Electrified-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Replacement-Projectors/dp/B004S79ZI4

 

or this:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605594-REG/Epson_V13H010L49_E_TORL_Projector_Lamp_for.html


----------



## mach250

Ok I'm really needing a replacement bulb and I see talk from some guys above about needing one also. I don't want to go cheap and end up with something that either breaks in a month or damages the projector so I want OEM but can't find it besides the epson site. When I look at it on their site it doesn't look the same but has the same part number. My bulb is at 2567 hours since feb 28th of last year.


----------



## Grayson73

This one has 15 reviews, average 4 out of 5 stars:

http://www.amazon.com/EPSON-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-genie-lamp/dp/B007TAGX0U/


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mach250*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23388403
> 
> 
> Ok I'm really needing a replacement bulb and I see talk from some guys above about needing one also. I don't want to go cheap and end up with something that either breaks in a month or damages the projector so I want OEM but can't find it besides the epson site. When I look at it on their site it doesn't look the same but has the same part number. My bulb is at 2567 hours since feb 28th of last year.


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-lamp-suppliers.htm http://www.purelandsupply.com/home-cinema-8350-epson-projector-lamp.html $184 with an Osram bulb.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23390956
> 
> 
> 
> $184 with an Osram bulb.


If you get it at Epson, obviously you won't get "grey market" or cheap clone for your money.

 

So, if you get it somewhere else ... the Osram bulb is what makes it genuine OEM?

 

I was told that B&H Photo gets their stock directly from Epson since they are a top-tier authorized Epson distributor. I'm not sure how you truly verify other distribution chains.


----------



## jnabq

Osram, Sylvania, Phillips, and one other, I forget, are the main producers/suppliers to the pj manufacturers. It's a quality bulb. http://www.planetbulb.com/pages/Original-Lamp-Vs.-OEM-Vs.-OEM-Compatible-for-RPTV-and-Projector-Lamps.html 

They might get their bulbs from Epson, but Epson doesn't make the bulbs.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23391384
> 
> 
> They might get their bulbs from Epson, but Epson doesn't make the bulbs.


 

Right. No I meant the part you buy ... the box-like assembly.

 

Great info BTW ... thanks.


----------



## Fishtank

For Canadians I ordered a bulb from Projectorlampsource.ca 


$196 - 150 day warranty, I'm only an hour away from their warehouse however the cheapest ground option had the bulb shipped within 30 mins and in my hands the next morning. They have an option for free pickup if your in the GTA. If it's any worse I can't tell. It's my 4th bulb, other 3 were from Epson directly.


Edit: Also I messed up and forgot about my air filter for a few months, my last bulb died a bit early so I'm sure I cooked it at 1500hrs. Previous bulbs were 2500-3000. I've got about 7100 hours total used on this PJ now and I'm really leaning towards the cooling being an issue. This is all a guesstimate but I think ECO mode drops the fan speed to low and cooks the lamps without enough airflow... as I've always had the "flicker" issue in ECO mode after a while across all lamps. I might run this bulb on normal mode + HA to see if it increases the bulb's life. Might even look into a fan mod or decrease the air resistance in the filter by removing the paper and using the "airy" foam found in other air filters. See if it helps the ECO flicker. I can remove dust blobs every few months if needed.


And I'm rambling now, those were just some thoughts as I contemplate replacing this or seeing if I can get some more life out of it.


Has anybody ever measured the internal heat throughout different modes?


----------



## jnabq

I run my 6010 in high altitude mode, as required here, and in eco mode I get an occasional instance of "flickering". Run the lamp in high mode for a few hours and then back to eco mode, it will be gone. Might be worth a try so you don't have to fun in High Mode "all" the time.


----------



## Barn01

I called Epson and explained the situation with a bulb blowing at sub 2000h. The CSR agreed and said they would send me a one time only replacement for free. So that deal is good even in Canada.


Good on them for owning up to a replacement when not reaching the 4000h mark as advertised but I'm still ticked that it appears to be false advertising that you can get 4000h out of these projectors with a single bulb. That dramatically effects my cost of ownership and that's something I factor when I look to purchase.


Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MississippiMan

Sheesh.


Epson "allows" such because it's leading the Industry in giving any degree of credence to such complaints.


An overview of almost all other Mfg. of more expensive PJs shows both no tendency to offer anything more that 1 year (irregardless of hours) Lamp warranty, and many still only going as far as to honor 90 / 160 Days - 500 hours.


That is because the light supplied comes from a "LAMP!" ie: Light Bulb. And a pretty high intensity one at that.;


Lamps in PJs with improved Cooling aspects and whose Lamp design & components offer the Lamp a "better chance" at having a prolonged lifespan can ind eed have an "ESTIMATED" 4K to 5K Hour rating. But there are NO guarantees I have ever seen published. Only Estimates. And still, at least for a time covering a span from just prior to *09-10* to this last April, Epson has "unofficially" been willing to replace any / all Lamp failures on the entire 8000/9000 lineup.


And all that started not because of the 8350, whose initial track record as far as Lamp issues was exemplary from the start, but because of substandard OEM Lamps in earlier 8100 / 8500 models.


Over all, with the 8350 holding honors as the singular most popular and purchased Model in PJ history, percentage-wise it's done and still does very well as far as Lamp longevity as relates to Consumer dissatisfaction. Except on here, on a Forum where every complaint seems to be both personal and cumulative. Even when someone gets a Lamp replaced after well over a year of continued use, no less.


Personally, as I've related before, out of all the PJs I've handled, none have been more reliable or exhibited longer dependable Lamp Life than the 8350 (ie: retaining acceptable performance up to past 2000 hours.) A Company, a Reviewer, even the sage advisers on this Forum can continually repeat that *ALL Lamps go Dim*....ANY lamp can fail, and NEVER has accepting any liability for Lamp Failure past the Lamp's Mfg stated limits ever been consider a requirement. A Lamp at 4000 hours is not going to be performing like it did at 1500 hours, and it's unreasonable to expect such....period.


If a Lamp fails at 50% of it's "Estimated" lifespan, it does so at a time it's also about 50% dimmer than new. It's wearing out / down...and things that wear out often fail....abruptly.


Yet Good O'l epson got on board the Peace Train and gave Customers an out.....for a while....and FAR longer than any of us hoary old timers ever thought they would. As such, a trend has started in the Industry to follow suit. At least to a point.


But the Glory Days of having a PJ Mfg simply replace all Lamps that fail at ANY length of service operations are coming to a close. And for a reason we all can be glad of. Lower lamp prices.


Demand has brought prices down...so much so that careful shopping can garner one a 8350 Lamp w/160 Day Warranty for under $100.00 Hell...I just replaced a Lamp w/2800+ hours with a $60.00 Lamp and it's doing a great job.


While it's understood that some feel more strongly about the issue for whatever reasons they feel justified in expressing as opinions, it's almost always a case of unreasonable expectations. A lot of people have gotten PJs that would not have been part of that demographic 6-7 years ago, when NO PJ mfg covered any Lamp beyond 90 Days, and the PJs cost much more then. Many have come into the market without a real understanding of what is and not to be expected. Advertised Lamp Life estimates are still just that, estimates used as part of a advertising plan.


Myself, I see lots of choices out there. I'm diggin' on the new Crop of inexpensive 1080p DLPs w/Lens Shift, and Short Throw versions. Some estimate 5K-6K Lamp Life. I take that with the grain of Salt that experience seasons my own expectations with. If I install a PJ properly, protect it well,educate the Owner sufficiently.....well I do suppose that can spell a difference. Out elsewhere, everyone Else's circumstances offer up too many variables to make any definitive statement. Nope. One can only give the dreaded and oft maligned *"estimate*".


Meanwhile......grab up a spare Lamp for under $60.00 and kwitcherbitchin.








http://www.amazon.com/EPSON-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-genie-lamp/dp/B007TAGX0U/ 
http://www.amazon.com/Electrified-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Replacement-Projectors/dp/B004S79ZI4/ref=pd_sim_


----------



## eyekode

Although I agree with most of your comments those lamps look sketchy. Especially the second one!


I also agree epson seems much more likely to help you out with a bulb replacement then any other company but on the other hand it is odd they (and all other manufacturers) can claim such high lamp life and yet we all know it is optimistic at best. Where is the truth in advertising? Ha! I can't believe I just said that!


----------



## coderguy

It's counter-intuitive, but I've had better luck with lamps on cheap DLP's than any other projector type, no idea why.

I've seen several cheap DLP's reach 4000+ hours, and a few at 8000 (never got there myself). My last one was the Pro8200 which hit 3500 hours and still isn't even flickering and just now getting to about 40% total new brightness. I don't use that PJ lately (gave it to a friend), but it's still plenty bright for a 92" 1.0 gain screen even in LAMP LOW


On a Benq w7000, I've got about 1500 hours and I've never seen a lamp dim this LITTLE at this number of hours, we're talking less than 25% dimming at 1500 hours (crazy).

Heck, I've still got the IRIS closed down at the exact same spot as new, it's not as bright as it was new but you can barely tell.


JVC and Epson lamps I've had the absolute worst luck with.

The new JVC's and new Epsons have better lamps hopefully.


----------



## Barn01

MM with all due respect my gripe is with advertising. Say you bought a car that boasted 30mi/gal and you bought it partly because of the economy and partly because you liked the car. Then you drive it for a month and realize you can't get more than 15mi/gal. Now you're stuck with a gas guzzler! At least the manufacturer gave you a free tank of gas after you complained ;-)


Cost of ownership matters to many people. I don't know if you're one of them but I am. Oh and there are some pretty sketchy reviews on that bulb you posted.


Thanks Epson for sending me another bulb, it is appreciated!



Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


----------



## choseqi

it's biggest weakness as far as getting the best contrast possible, either native or Dynamic.


----------



## DaveCarrera4

I'm sure the lamp that Epson sells is very good, made to their quality standards and has a fairly predictable MTBF. I'm reasonably sure they make a huge margin, and Osram does pretty good too, I'd bet. That said, if a knock off lamp made that is similar, but perhaps not quite as high quality gives 80% of the normal life, but costs one third, true cost of ownership is much more favorable if you plan to keep the pj for several years.


----------



## coderguy

Lamps don't have predictable failure rates, even the best of lamps aren't that predictable (sometimes). Some lamps can dim 50% whereas an exact duplicate of that same MFR lamp can dim 20% at the same number of hours. These lamps experience many complications in QC and manufacturing. I am not sure how good/bad Epson lamps really are, just saying that slightly more than anecdotally - Epson and JVC lamps are not at the top of the pack for QC.


That said, most people do not use their projectors enough to really worry about lamps that much, but some do.


----------



## DaveCarrera4

I hear what you are saying, but someone at Epson ran some statistics to come up with a life, they didn't just guess. However, you sound pretty sure of yourself, are you in the lamp business?


----------



## coderguy

Nah, but I know people that run projectors into the ground, like some dealers that have demo units which I've talked to and they've agreed on the lamps for the most part, as well as posts in this forum, and I've also owned some of these units myself. I am not sure about the new Epson lamps though, mostly know from a few years back. The Epson lamps are probably better than the RS-40/45 (001 - 003) series JVC lamps though (at least you have that going for you).


A busted lamp isn't a huge deal, I just hate the mercury cleanup.


Rated lamp life is mostly a bad joke on the consumer, as it is probably published by the lamp makers and the manufacturers decide how to interpret it. Epson does not publish statistics based on their own lamp tests (or if they do it's distorted as is most statistics). Some people that work at the manufacturers will fudge the numbers and some don't. In reality, lamp life is affected by the internal cooling path and the electrical and so many other factors, that the MFR of the lamp cannot even tell the MFR of the PJ how long the lamp will really last.


The rating is not a reliability rating, it was a brightness curve rating originally, but now it is neither IMO.


Then some MFR's started rating some of these lamps at 5k to 8k hours, so now we see some projectors like my w7000 (which has a lamp rated at 2000 or 3000 hours) vs. a Viewsonic Pro8200 (which is rated at 5000 hours). Neither one of those numbers means much, it doesn't mean that is the expected lamp life in the sense of when the lamp will fail.


Some people think it means that at the lamp's half-life is when the lamp average 50% of the original brightness, but it doesn't even mean that anymore (at one point some MFR's were shooting for that). Really, it doesn't mean anything anymore, they just stamp a number on the bulb and go hey this looks good. Actually it is somewhat based on math to how the lamp is designed and how much wattage it runs at as to how long it will last, but this formula does not work in the real world as it has no implications to reliability or how fast a lamp will really dim. A hotter lamp dims faster.


Lamp ratings are becoming sort of like contrast ratios, it's whatever they can justifiably get away with that some test and math can backup, but they are not trying to find a precise way to rate the lamp, rather they are using whatever formulas rate the lamp higher.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23412137
> 
> 
> 
> On a Benq w7000, I've got about 1500 hours and I've never seen a lamp dim this LITTLE at this number of hours, we're talking less than 25% dimming at 1500 hours (crazy).
> 
> Heck, I've still got the IRIS closed down at the exact same spot as new, it's not as bright as it was new but you can barely tell.



I've had the same kind of experience with my Panasonic PT-AR100U - 18% dimming in 1510 hours of use. Very pleased.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1428735/the-official-panasonic-pt-ar100u-owners-thread/60#post_23202003


----------



## DaveCarrera4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coderguy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8120_40#post_23415114
> 
> 
> Nah, but I know people that run projectors into the ground, like some dealers that have demo units which I've talked to and they've agreed on the lamps for the most part, as well as posts in this forum, and I've also owned some of these units myself. I am not sure about the new Epson lamps though, mostly know from a few years back. The Epson lamps are probably better than the RS-40/45 (001 - 003) series JVC lamps though (at least you have that going for you).
> 
> 
> A busted lamp isn't a huge deal, I just hate the mercury cleanup.
> 
> 
> Rated lamp life is mostly a bad joke on the consumer, as it is probably published by the lamp makers and the manufacturers decide how to interpret it. Epson does not publish statistics based on their own lamp tests (or if they do it's distorted as is most statistics). Some people that work at the manufacturers will fudge the numbers and some don't. In reality, lamp life is affected by the internal cooling path and the electrical and so many other factors, that the MFR of the lamp cannot even tell the MFR of the PJ how long the lamp will really last.
> 
> 
> The rating is not a reliability rating, it was a brightness curve rating originally, but now it is neither IMO.
> 
> 
> Then some MFR's started rating some of these lamps at 5k to 8k hours, so now we see some projectors like my w7000 (which has a lamp rated at 2000 or 3000 hours) vs. a Viewsonic Pro8200 (which is rated at 5000 hours). Neither one of those numbers means much, it doesn't mean that is the expected lamp life in the sense of when the lamp will fail.
> 
> 
> Some people think it means that at the lamp's half-life is when the lamp average 50% of the original brightness, but it doesn't even mean that anymore (at one point some MFR's were shooting for that). Really, it doesn't mean anything anymore, they just stamp a number on the bulb and go hey this looks good. Actually it is somewhat based on math to how the lamp is designed and how much wattage it runs at as to how long it will last, but this formula does not work in the real world as it has no implications to reliability or how fast a lamp will really dim. A hotter lamp dims faster.
> 
> 
> Lamp ratings are becoming sort of like contrast ratios, it's whatever they can justifiably get away with that some test and math can backup, but they are not trying to find a precise way to rate the lamp, rather they are using whatever formulas rate the lamp higher.



I'm not sure if any of your statements are based on fact. You are projecting (no pun intended) your gut feeling as fact. I guess that is why Epson has this as part of their specifications on the 8350:


2 Lamp life will vary depending upon mode selected, environmental conditions and usage. Lamp brightness decreases over time.


----------



## coderguy

No, it's not a gut feeling, and yes that is what the lamp life really meant, it is not a reliability rating, it was an expected usefulness / life rating. I said "I think" because I know the general way it works but do not know the EXACT procedures used by each different company. They don't rate lamps based on when they are going to explode, some lamps can go 10k hours and not die, they just get so DIM they mise well be dead.


And yes I am absolutely positively sure that the MFR's do not have a secret test lab which they use to divulge the REAL lamp life averages to you or anyone else. Oh they do test stuff, but the results will never leave that room. These come from the lamp MFR's and are re-stamped by the projector manufacturers based on other factors. Again, it is based on the electronics factors and how they calculate the useful expected lamp longevity with math, it is not based on the result of testing conditions, and not when they think the lamp is going to explode, haha. There can be some "fuzzy truth" to some lamps rated higher losing brightness slower, but that's only because the raw factors that cause that allow it to be that way, but even then it is far from a guarantee or a reliability rating.


You can have 2000 hour rated lamps outlast 5000 hour rated lamps.


They also have silly contrast ratios as part of their specs.


----------



## DaveCarrera4

Sheesh, I give up...


----------



## coderguy

You can find out yourself, it's not hard, there is a bunch of info about how lamps are rated if you Google it. I've got lots of posts in the forum (read tens of thousands of threads), wrote a calculator, and have visited over 30 different dealers across the US in 20+ cities. As I noted, I don't think the Epson lamps are really bad (don't have enough stats), but anecdotally I wouldn't rate them the highest, I would just say you cannot trust the lamp ratings. How many projectors have I seen use lamps, including business projectors, almost 100 but I lost count a long time ago.


I tracked more than 10 myself with an actual light meter, but I got bored after a while.


The hilarious thing is thus far the Benq w7000 is losing brightness the slowest, and it has one of the lowest lamp ratings. The only lamp that really matched the poor rating was the JVC lamp, but that's because it blew up on me.


----------



## konimus09


IMAG0024.jpg 370k .jpg file



i am having a hard time figuring out why when i put my projector in cinema mode it creates this odd and very distracting blueish haze during any source of light in a dark scene.


if anyone else has noticed this with their 8350 and knows what the problem is, or just knows in general what is causing it please let me know.


currently my only solution to this problem is taking it out of cinema/normal mode and putting it into living room mode.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *konimus09*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8130#post_23417873
> 
> IMAG0024.jpg 370k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> i am having a hard time figuring out why when i put my projector in cinema mode it creates this odd and very distracting blueish haze during any source of light in a dark scene.
> 
> 
> if anyone else has noticed this with their 8350 and knows what the problem is, or just knows in general what is causing it please let me know.
> 
> 
> currently my only solution to this problem is taking it out of cinema/normal mode and putting it into living room mode.


Not really sure, but I think you may need to try calibrating. Are you using the default settings? If so, that is most likely the problem. I used settings I found in this forum and the are spectacular! My blacks are black, whites are white, etc...The default settings are great in a showroom, but at home-they suck. In a room with no light, even worse! Anyways, hope that helps. Good luck!


----------



## pagan97

Also, it may be a convergence issue. Do you notice it when white lettering is present on the screen as a blue halo around the letters? Hope its not that...


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


Could your lens be dirty?


----------



## F12Bwth

Had a few hiccups tonight. My 8350 which I got in Nov 12' and only have about 240 hours on it started dimming every 8 minutes or so for two hours. I left it alone and when the movie was over switched from ECO which is my normal setting to bright and the anomaly stopped. When I switched back to ECO it didn't seem to continue but I didn't have all night to run the PJ.. I have the Iris functionality disabled by default.


If it does it again I will likely be talking to Epson.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23439527
> 
> 
> Had a few hiccups tonight. My 8350 which I got in Nov 12' and only have about 240 hours on it started dimming every 8 minutes or so for two hours. I left it alone and when the movie was over switched from ECO which is my normal setting to bright and the anomaly stopped. When I switched back to ECO it didn't seem to continue but I didn't have all night to run the PJ.. I have the Iris functionality disabled by default.


 

IIRC, this is a known fix for strange dimming in ECO Mode. Something about exercising the bulb...

 

My rooms not light controlled and the projector is at 18ft, so I just blast away in Normal Mode all the time ... and lovin it.


----------



## konimus09

i have used both the Disney wow bluray for calibration and also a calibrator that was on a dvd i own, both seem to make no difference in what i am seeing, but that being said im no professional either. and i dont believe i notice it around any white lettering. it only seems to show up when im using darker settings, and its fine on lighter ones such as living room.


----------



## PappaSmurf

Well I guess I finally got one of those green blobs I keep hearing about.... Switch the AV reciever to stereo which makes the picture go away to a blank screen I have about 5 inch ligh greenish spot.... can't see during movies though...


----------



## tryrrthg

Well my experiment with the BenQ W1070 seems to be a failure. I see rainbow city watching it. So now I'm back to considering the Epson 8350. However all the problems reported make me nervous... Should I be?


Am I better off spending $900 on a refurbished one or buying new?


I see a lot of places are our of stock on the 8350 (including Amazon for several days now). Is the 8350 on the way out? Anything new coming out to replace it?


Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tryrrthg*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23464687
> 
> 
> Well my experiment with the BenQ W1070 seems to be a failure. I see rainbow city watching it. So now I'm back to considering the Epson 8350. However all the problems reported make me nervous... Should I be?
> 
> 
> Am I better off spending $900 on a refurbished one or buying new?
> 
> 
> I see a lot of places are our of stock on the 8350 (including Amazon for several days now). Is the 8350 on the way out? Anything new coming out to replace it?
> 
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!



Buy New if you can......or ReFurbed from a reputable source that also sells "New".


----------



## GTA Beancounter

I posted several weeks ago regarding my dedicated HT room that was under construction and yesterday I finally picked up my 8350 on the recommendation of a few posters here (esp. MississippiMan). The front half of my 27.5 x 14 room is being used for the theatre (back will be a card table and small bar for now). I was pleasantly surprised with the picture even on a dark taupe/grey painted wall. Our Eyes at the main seating position are 11.5' to 12' from the screen and we are in the process of deciding between a 108" or 100" diagonal 16x9 screen. Deciding is brutal! The 108" seems too big for 16x9 and close to just about right for 2.35 content whereas the 100" is ideal for 16x9 and a bit small to "just right" for 2.35 content. I figure I'd get used to the larger screen over time but based on my perception TODAY I'd go with the 100", keep in mind our family room set up we've had for a couple years is a 58" Plasma viewed from about 9' which I think may be influencing the comfort level with a 100" screen.


Any thoughts on my situation and the 100" vs 108"?


Also, does anyone know where I could get a 1.5' to 2' long power cord for the projector? Its ceiling mounted and the standard cord looks a bit messy given that our ceiling is only 6'11" and the projector is mounted at about the middle of the room 12' from the screen.


Thanks


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23468265
> 
> 
> I posted several weeks ago regarding my dedicated HT room that was under construction and yesterday I finally picked up my 8350 on the recommendation of a few posters here (esp. MississippiMan). The front half of my 27.5 x 14 room is being used for the theatre (back will be a card table and small bar for now). I was pleasantly surprised with the picture even on a dark taupe/grey painted wall. Our Eyes at the main seating position are 11.5' to 12' from the screen and we are in the process of deciding between a 108" or 100" diagonal 16x9 screen. Deciding is brutal! The 108" seems too big for 16x9 and close to just about right for 2.35 content whereas the 100" is ideal for 16x9 and a bit small to "just right" for 2.35 content. I figure I'd get used to the larger screen over time but based on my perception TODAY I'd go with the 100", keep in mind our family room set up we've had for a couple years is a 58" Plasma viewed from about 9' which I think may be influencing the comfort level with a 100" screen.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on my situation and the 100" vs 108"?
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone know where I could get a 1.5' to 2' long power cord for the projector? Its ceiling mounted and the standard cord looks a bit messy given that our ceiling is only 6'11" and the projector is mounted at about the middle of the room 12' from the screen.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Bigger is better. I've got a 106in that at first seemed overwhelming, but now I'm jonesing for a 120incher.


----------



## danw111

I have a 100" (diagonal) 16x9 screen with seating at 9' and 14'. It's perfect for 2.35 movies and a little large for 16x9 from the front row.


Power cord: Monoprice 5277 or 5278


----------



## Itsdon

I'm running 135" and would have 150" if my room would permit it. Bigger is always better


----------



## eyekode

My vote is 120" 2.35:1 and CIH for 16:9 for 12' viewing. However you will have to zoom manually. I still think it will be worth it. However I have not yet built my screen with masking so I don't really know







.


----------



## jnabq

If you plan to watch more 16x9 content, then go with the 100", but like others, bigger is generally better, and I vote for 108". My 120" seems small sometimes now.....


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23470147
> 
> 
> My vote is 120" 2.35:1 and CIH for 16:9 for 12' viewing. However you will have to zoom manually. I still think it will be worth it. However I have not yet built my screen with masking so I don't really know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



CIH isn't really an option in the sense that the widest I can go is a bit under 8' given my FL & FR towers, so the 108" 16x9 screen is the biggest I can fit to accomodate all my speakers where I'd like them to be... If I went with an 8' wide 2.35 screen I think the 16x9 image would be underwhelming.


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23471140
> 
> 
> If you plan to watch more 16x9 content, then go with the 100", but like others, bigger is generally better, and I vote for 108". My 120" seems small sometimes now.....



I will probably watch more 16x9 content, BUT my more "critical" viewing will be with 2.35 material if that makes any sense










How far are you from your 120" screen? I ask because I've found that at the sizes we are talking about a foot makes a big difference. For example going from 11.5' to 12.5' is a 3 degree difference in terms of field of view and in my case the 2.6 degree difference between 100" and 108" at about 11.75' seems to make a BIG difference. A 100" screen from my main seating position would have nearly the same field of vision as a 120" screen from 14'!!


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danw111*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23469686
> 
> 
> I have a 100" (diagonal) 16x9 screen with seating at 9' and 14'. It's perfect for 2.35 movies and a little large for 16x9 from the front row.
> 
> 
> Power cord: Monoprice 5277 or 5278



Thank you for the power cord recommendation! Love Monoprice!!!!!


I'm afraid I've taken this thread way off topic, my question really belongs in the screen section... I started this thread there if you wish to respond:


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1479014/screen-size-help-how-did-your-perception-change-over-time 


Thanks to all for your input.

Cheers


----------



## kevinwoodward

As the others have stated this is a non issue.

Unless you can't get your speakers where you want them... both of your screen sizes are way too small


I have 106 inch in a 12 by 14 room and i would put in 120 if I could


Have you ever gone to the real movie theater and thought, wow this screen is way too big?


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23472299
> 
> 
> As the others have stated this is a non issue.
> 
> Unless you can't get your speakers where you want them... both of your screen sizes are way too small
> 
> 
> I have 106 inch in a 12 by 14 room and i would put in 120 if I could
> 
> 
> Have you ever gone to the real movie theater and thought, wow this screen is way too big?




I have to respectfully disagree with the "way too small comment"







. My room is long but the main (and furthest) seating position is under 12' from the screen so my room may as well be 13' x 14' to put it in perspective. Assuming you room is 14' long and your couch is at the back your field of vision with a 120" screen would be the SAME as mine with a 108" screen, while your 106" screen would actually be smaller than the 100" I'm considering. Of course you may be sitting closer







.


I have actually thought the screen at a commercial theatre is way too big when I don't get my preferred seating which is anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3 up depending on the size of the screen.


----------



## kevinwoodward

HEARD. good luck with it. Post some Pictures...


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23472781
> 
> 
> I have to respectfully disagree with the "way too small comment"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My room is long but the main (and furthest) seating position is under 12' from the screen so my room may as well be 13' x 14' to put it in perspective. Assuming you room is 14' long and your couch is at the back your field of vision with a 120" screen would be the SAME as mine with a 108" screen, while your 106" screen would actually be smaller than the 100" I'm considering. Of course you may be sitting closer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I have actually thought the screen at a commercial theatre is way too big when I don't get my preferred seating which is anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3 up depending on the size of the screen.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23472802
> 
> 
> HEARD. good luck with it. Post some Pictures...



I dunno, you can do the math on the field of view but if you take it to any extreme it's ridiculous. Why not just buy a nexus 10 and strap the 2560x1600 to a helmet at your preferred distance until you reach your optimum FOV. You can make it as big or as little as you want 


The biggest problem is finding something that's comfortable for everyone, I'm sitting 9' from 120" and I love it. Other people love it. Makes some people dizzy. Too bright for some people. I'm a hair away from being too close for the pixel structure, so someone else might be really bothered by it. It sucks wanting to share your new toy's with people and they sit there wincing and straining to watch while you enjoy it. I don't care much as it's 100% mine and the room layout + existing gear dictated the decision.


Everyone will have a different opinion, consider you're audience ahead of the math if you can.


Buy a big fixed screen and mask it down to any size you like would be my alternate suggestion


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishtank*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23472870
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno, you can do the math on the field of view but if you take it to any extreme it's ridiculous. Why not just buy a nexus 10 and strap the 2560x1600 to a helmet at your preferred distance until you reach your optimum FOV. You can make it as big or as little as you want
> 
> 
> The biggest problem is finding something that's comfortable for everyone, I'm sitting 9' from 120" and I love it. Other people love it. Makes some people dizzy. Too bright for some people. I'm a hair away from being too close for the pixel structure, so someone else might be really bothered by it. It sucks wanting to share your new toy's with people and they sit there wincing and straining to watch while you enjoy it. I don't care much as it's 100% mine and the room layout + existing gear dictated the decision.
> 
> 
> Everyone will have a different opinion, consider you're audience ahead of the math if you can.
> 
> 
> Buy a big fixed screen and mask it down to any size you like would be my alternate suggestion



My whole point with the FOV in response to Kevinwoodward was that the combination of distance AND size (not any one in isolation) actually matters more than you think, and that it was not unreasonable for somebody to feel like a 108" screen might be too big at closer than 12'. My indecision is not based on any math (even THX and 20th Century Fox and SMPTE don't agree with respect to the numbers) its based on feeling like the 100" is too small but relaxing to watch whereas the 108" is very immersive but less relaxing. And I have to admit, I do want a bit of the "wow" factor for when friends, family come over... it will really bother me if I go smaller and I get told I should have gone larger.










I completely get the appeal of sitting 9' from 120" but in my case I'd probably be person getting dizzy.


----------



## Smyly

All-


On my 4th 8350 and thought I hit the jackpot. Everything is perfect except the bottom edge of the image is bowed in the middle. Its ¾ inch higher in the center. It's very gradual so it's only noticeable with black bars. All other edges are perfectly square (or so I think) and all previous units never exhibited this behavior. Is this a lens issue? Thanks for any help.


----------



## F12Bwth

This will either help or hurt the conversation.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23471801
> 
> 
> I will probably watch more 16x9 content, BUT my more "critical" viewing will be with 2.35 material if that makes any sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far are you from your 120" screen? I ask because I've found that at the sizes we are talking about a foot makes a big difference. For example going from 11.5' to 12.5' is a 3 degree difference in terms of field of view and in my case the 2.6 degree difference between 100" and 108" at about 11.75' seems to make a BIG difference. A 100" screen from my main seating position would have nearly the same field of vision as a 120" screen from 14'!!



Sitting back around 15' from the 126", typo on my earlier post, but.... if I'm watching a good 3d film i wanna really get immersed in, I'll move my recliner up to around 10' center stage.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Smyly*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23473302
> 
> 
> All-
> 
> 
> On my 4th 8350 and thought I hit the jackpot. Everything is perfect except the bottom edge of the image is bowed in the middle. Its ¾ inch higher in the center. It's very gradual so it's only noticeable with black bars. All other edges are perfectly square (or so I think) and all previous units never exhibited this behavior. Is this a lens issue? Thanks for any help.



Possible, but check that the pj is completely level, front to back and side to side and the lens is parallel to the screen. Also make sure no keystone adjustments are being made in the menu.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23474620
> 
> 
> Possible, but check that the pj is completely level, front to back and side to side and the lens is parallel to the screen. Also make sure no keystone adjustments are being made in the menu.



Also check that the screen is square and not bowed up or down. Also make sure it is flat. Note that most walls are not great as a flat reference. Most are actually wavy.

Salem


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23472802
> 
> 
> HEARD. good luck with it. Post some Pictures...



Thanks

I'll try to post some pictures tonight


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23474613
> 
> 
> Sitting back around 15' from the 126", typo on my earlier post, but.... if I'm watching a good 3d film i wanna really get immersed in, I'll move my recliner up to around 10' center stage.



Thanks for your information... your 126" from 15' is just a hair smaller in terms of FOV than the 100" in my room.


----------



## mva5580

Got a question about my 8350.


So I've noticed that up in the top right corner of the screen, I see this relatively small (in comparison to the full 80" screen at least) circle of faint light when the image is dark. I can't really describe it....it almost kind of looks like those little circles you may see if you stare at the sun for a second and then close your eyes and reopen them. That's probably a horrible description but I can't think of anything better. I've tried cleaning the lens and it's still there. Something to be alarmed about?


----------



## kevinwoodward

if you move your viewing position is it still in the same place?


i have some reflections that bounce of my lens back onto the screen...


----------



## HDTV Maniac

I watch a 140" 16x9 screen from about 12' and I can tell you that it is amazing!!! It doesn't feel overwhelming at all so my advice would be to go as big as your wall can handle.


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23474421
> 
> 
> This will either help or hurt the conversation.



I've given this one some thought too










I have 20/20 vision and at 11.75' the only difference in resolution that I can really make out between the two sizes would be the text in blue ray menus or title screens. The characters at 108" look the slightest bit jagged whereas on the 100" they are perfectly smooth, moving about 2 ft closer from my sitting position on the 100" screen also reveals the jaggedness so its not a projector issue.


One thing I haven't done is look at some DVD content... I have an oppo 103 and hope the video processor will do a decent job. I figure there won't be much of a difference between the 108" and 100" with SD material at my distance.


----------



## Smyly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnabq*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23474620
> 
> 
> Possible, but check that the pj is completely level, front to back and side to side and the lens is parallel to the screen. Also make sure no keystone adjustments are being made in the menu.


I've checked the leveling several times. I've even turned the pj at various angles to create different distortions, without being able to eliminate the one on the bottom. I'll check it again tonight. Seems like a mounting issue would cause a uniform slope from one side to another, not a bow.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23475435
> 
> 
> Also check that the screen is square and not bowed up or down. Also make sure it is flat. Note that most walls are not great as a flat reference. Most are actually wavy.
> 
> Salem



I'm using a wall mounted electric Seymour screen. Consequently, the screen is free hanging and shouldn't be bowed. I've checked the tension system to make sure. I'll check it again. Thanks


----------



## mva5580




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23476740
> 
> 
> if you move your viewing position is it still in the same place?
> 
> 
> i have some reflections that bounce of my lens back onto the screen...



Yeah I see it regardless of where I sit, but it is possible that it could be a reflection, something like that. I'll mess with it tonight.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mva5580*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8160#post_23476619
> 
> 
> Got a question about my 8350.
> 
> 
> So I've noticed that up in the top right corner of the screen, I see this relatively small (in comparison to the full 80" screen at least) circle of faint light when the image is dark. I can't really describe it....it almost kind of looks like those little circles you may see if you stare at the sun for a second and then close your eyes and reopen them. That's probably a horrible description but I can't think of anything better. I've tried cleaning the lens and it's still there. Something to be alarmed about?


Dust blob most likely


----------



## mva5580

Would a dust blob stay even after I wiped the lamp? Because I've done that, and yet it's still there.


I also actually have one more question, in reference to the lamp life. The one thing that I'm a little concerned about at this point is how many posts I've read from people who had lamps that died after like 700, 800, 1000 or so hours even though the stated life is 4000. Now I understand how those stated #'s work....it's inflated. It's like their exact perfect scenario situation and they can state 4000 hours even if in the majority of their testing it was below that. I seem to have read a few places where the belief was that the early run of lamps for these had a defect, and it was corrected. Can that be verified by anyone?


I'm by no means expecting 4000 hours out of my lamp, hell if I get 2500 hours out of it that would satisy me. But if it dies on me after like 1000 hours....I'm not so sure I'd be willing to stick with this projector.


I use ECO Mode by the way, if it really matters that much.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mva5580*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23477724
> 
> 
> Would a dust blob stay even after I wiped the lamp? Because I've done that, and yet it's still there.
> 
> 
> I also actually have one more question, in reference to the lamp life. The one thing that I'm a little concerned about at this point is how many posts I've read from people who had lamps that died after like 700, 800, 1000 or so hours even though the stated life is 4000. Now I understand how those stated #'s work....it's inflated. It's like their exact perfect scenario situation and they can state 4000 hours even if in the majority of their testing it was below that. I seem to have read a few places where the belief was that the early run of lamps for these had a defect, and it was corrected. Can that be verified by anyone?
> 
> 
> I'm by no means expecting 4000 hours out of my lamp, hell if I get 2500 hours out of it that would satisy me. But if it dies on me after like 1000 hours....I'm not so sure I'd be willing to stick with this projector.
> 
> 
> I use ECO Mode by the way, if it really matters that much.



The dust spec, if that is what it is, is actually on the lcd panel area. Cleaning the lens won't get rid of it. I don't know if the lamps were the entire problem in these units. The good news is, Epson is replacing them for customers up to the 2 yr warranty, and usually a bit past it, bad news is they still may not last past 2000 hrs.


Eco mode, and 'high altitude mode" may help, as well as insuring the filters are in good condition. No one will be able to guarantee you'll get 1000 hrs, its a roll of the dice.


----------



## DE Theater Room

Ok, so I have had my 8350 since late December. I purchased it to replace an old Panasonic PJ so the ceiling mount was already in place and positioned. I had a professional installer come and mount it and run a HDMI cable to it (the old PJ just had component connections). Since then I have really enjoyed this new projector. I mean as compared to the old one (720p) with component cables, this one is awesome!


Now I have been periodically checking into this site and couldn't help but read all the comments about issues with convergence, etc. I began to wonder if I was getting the most out of my be 8350. I purchased the Disney WOW DVD and began running it through the calibration test. The first thing I noticed was that the picture was a little off using the ASPECT ratio calibration. It didn't look level, so I leveled it(to the screen). Then I noticed that the picture narrowed as you went from bottom (wider) to top (narrow). I couldn't figure out how to adjust for that, does anyone have any suggestions?


Second I found that my convergence was off ever so slightly. From where I sit, it really isn't noticeable, but when I went up directly in front of the screen, there was definitely a lack of convergence. My question is, what is the PJ's specification on convergence? I mean I don't assume that the convergence is supposed to be perfect at every screen size and throw distance (is it). I would expect to find that my non-convergence is within spec, as I have truly enjoyed watching my new projector and am continually amazed by its picture.


Any thoughts or advice on theses two subjects would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## eyekode

If it is wider on the bottom than the top then the projector is not pointing directly at the screen it is pointing down a hair. It takes a fair amount of patience to level a projector.

I have a geared projector mount which makes it easier: http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372598310&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=peerles+prgnv+projector 

But even then it takes patience.


If you are seeing any amount of "keystoning" then the projector is not square (left right, up down) to the screen.


As for convergence, I would say if you cannot see it from your viewing position you are fine







. When I got my projector the convergence was very bad. I could see the problem in movie material. For example when there was black right against white I would see a very noticeable colored halo. It killed highlight detail. I had to send that one back. With the new one I can notice some convergence error on fine text but not on movie material. I am happy!

Good luck!

Salem


----------



## jnabq

As the previous poster mentioned, level the pj. Front to back, side to side, then use the lens shift and zoom to place the image onto the screen. Keystone shouldn't be used if at all possible. Convergence difference within 1 pixel can be considered normal, more than that and you might want to consider a return.


----------



## gtrscort

This projector is one that I am considering as my first projector...can someone tell me how long the power cord is? I am trying to figure out whether or noti would hang this from the ceiling.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtrscort*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23502100
> 
> 
> This projector is one that I am considering as my first projector...can someone tell me how long the power cord is? I am trying to figure out whether or noti would hang this from the ceiling.


 

I think it's about 6 ft. long. However, it's a standard 3-prong removable desktop computer power supply cord. Meaning, you can replace it with whatever size you can find.

 

Also, if too long ... wire-tie it up. Too short, add a nice extension cord.


----------



## kevinwoodward

I bought a 1.5 footer from my local electronics store... You do it Electronics... 3.00.


----------



## mva5580

Any recommendations for a good 80" screen to go with this? I bought a cheap "Elite" screen on Amazon and while its ok for what it is, I feel like I could do much better.


My room is pretty well controlled in terms of light, however during the day some will get in. I'm just interested in getting a screen that will provide me with an upgrade in terms of picture quality, however I'm not looking to spend thousands of dollars on a screen. Any recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## F12Bwth

I think my Panoview Gray Wolf II comes in an 80" version. My 92" was cheap and the High Contrast Grey really pops that image out.


----------



## mva5580

I'm not seeing an 80" version of that....anyone have input on Carada? I had my eye specifically on this one:

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H080C 


I'd be willing to pay that and I really, really like that it's framed as well. But I guess at the same time I want to ensure that I'm not just paying ~$650 for the framing, I want to be sure that the screen is an upgrade as well.


If I were to go with it, I'm guessing I should get the high contrast grey?


----------



## kevinwoodward

if you get us let us know how it is.

my framed screen was 320.00 and seems fine to me, maybe this is that much nicer?


----------



## Fun5ten

Hi,

I didn’t find a specific thread for introductions, so I will provide a quick one (I hope):


I have been a lurker for several years. I bought my first house last year, 2012, and am converting one of the rooms in to a theater room. I call it theater 1.0. It is functional, but has holes in the walls (from running cables) to patch and then paint. Then it will be theater 2.0 and I am planning theater 3.0. I have been a home theater since the early 1900’s. Since I am in the Epson 8350 thread, this is the projector I chose after researching it here on avsforums. The Epson 8350 projects on to a 98” low budget black out cloth (BOC), matte white, with a gain of 1.1. I plan to upgrade to a 100” or larger (106” max”) screen and am still debating to go the Wilsonart D354 approach or a pre-manufactured fixed screen. My audio system consists of an Integra DTR7 connected to a Rotel RMB 1095 5 channel amplifier. The Rotel amp powers Polk LS90 mains, Polk LS350 center, and LS FX rear speakers. My room is 13’ x 19’, so Dolby Digital 5.1 is sufficient and I don’t think it is big enough for 6.1 or greater. The audio is complimented by a Velodyne ULD-18. Some say the sub is too big for the room, but is sounds great.


Here is a picture of Theater 1.0. Since the picture, I have removed the wrinkles from the BOC and upgraded the mains from Polk LS50 to LS90.

 


Since this is the thread for the Epson 8350, I will get back on track. I am mostly impressed with the projector. As the replies on this message board mentioned, after some tweaking, the image is incredible for a projector in this price range. I can only imagine how much better it will be with a better screen. As many owners already have experienced, bulb life is not very good with this projector. The first bulb lasted 900 hours. After researching this issue and reading up about power cycling, I decided to leave it on all day. Having the projector on all day, only one power cycle per day, the second lamp had a life of 2,000 hours. Like many, I just replace the lamp. It is still cheaper than a projector costing 2 to 3 times or more, that will probably have similar lamp life.


OK, I have been experiencing an issue that I have not been able to find any information on. I think it relates to polarizer burn, but it repairs itself. The issue just showed up after replacing the lamp for the third time. The second lamp actually exploded inside the casing. After watching standard definition (4:3), then returning to HDTV (16:9), I get slightly darker areas where the side bars used to be.


Here is an image I found online and photoshopped to use as an example.

 


The more 4:3, the worse the image when returning to 16:9. After watching only 16:9 for a few hours, it begins to fix itself. From reading about polarizer burn, I don’t think it could be that. Any ideas? What other information can I provide to better diagnose this issue?


----------



## eyekode

Sorry I cannot help you but what do you mean by "leave it on all day"? Previously you were turning off the hard (rocker) power switch?

Thanks!

Salem


----------



## Fun5ten

From reading about the lamp here on avsforums, turning the projector on, then off is one power cycle. I turn it off and on using only the remote. If I were to turn the projector on in the morning, I leave it on all day and turn off at night before bed. Where as before I would turn it off and on 2 to 3 times a day sometimes.


Another interesting thing I noticed about the darker areas after watching 4:3 shows, is that it seems to not be as noticeable in eco mode. The quality of the image just appears better in normal, but this could be another variable in diagnosing the problem. More time is needed to find out if there really is a difference in eco vs normal modes.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fun5ten*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23504995
> 
> 
> The more 4:3, the worse the image when returning to 16:9. After watching only 16:9 for a few hours, it begins to fix itself. From reading about polarizer burn, I don’t think it could be that. Any ideas? What other information can I provide to better diagnose this issue?


Sounds like Image Retention. I had a Desktop Gadget cause it on even my IPS-LCD 24" Dell UltraSharp. It was corrected with the built-in "slides" but taught me that no panel is immune to it. I'd imagine it's worse with non-Eco Mode because it's brighter.

 

On my 1080p plasma (especially) and this LCD projector, I'm pretty careful. It's not hard these days on TimeWarner to play 16:9 (HD) instead. If I must watch 4:3, I digital zoom to full width and slightly cut-off top and bottom (to keep aspect). In fact, they have that preset setting on the DVR modes. Like I said, I have a nice plasma, so we got used to this. I guess I'm suggesting that you stop native 4:3 viewing because it's not necessary or worth the gamble.

 

My room is not light controlled, so I always run on Non-Eco. I'll have to check my "bulb hours" some time, but I'm still on my first. Hearing about a 900-hour is not uncommon so I think that was just a weak bulb. Epson has been known to replace those under warranty. I think 2000 hours is the average. I wouldn't expect to get more than 3000, even on 100% Eco. You can try less cycles, but you are going to hit the hours-mark faster. Personally, I think the genuine Epson bulbs are better than the cheap clones.


----------



## Fun5ten

Thanks Tesla1856










It makes sense now and after a few articles I read from Google searching Image Retention, it explains it pretty well. It appears that DLP is immune, as is LED displays.


More content is being broadcast in 16:9 nowadays, but I do like to watch the occasional 4:3 show. I will try the 4:30 stretch mode maintaining aspect ratio. I am currently helping a friend get back on his feet after losing a job and place to stay. He has been watching old shows on Netflix through his XBOX360. This is when the image retention became noticeable. Since the 8350 can have a different profile(memory 1-10) for type of signal, when his or my XBOX360 is being displayed, the projector is on ECO mode now. I also told my friend to watch an hour of 4:3, then a couple hours of 16:9, rather than several hours of 4:3 in a row.


I too prefer genuine Epson lamps. From reading horror stories here and other sites about non-Epson housings causing damage to the projector, I am sticking with genuine Epson lamps. I get mine through Newegg.


I have yet to do a study on leaving the projector on all day, with power to run it and reaching max bulb hours earlier as you mentioned, or having 2 or 3 power cycles per day. It took about 8 months for me to get to the 900 hours on the first bulb. But with my friend using it now, it reaches 900 hours in about 2 months, but that also includes leaving it on all day. If I were to replace the lamp every 2 to 3 months, I would be approaching lamp cost annually close to what the projector costs. Sure hope my friend can find work and move out soon to return to replacing the lamp close to annually.


My projector is mainly run in normal mode and color set to dynamic.


Curious as to what others do with their 8350 projector. Do you turn yours off/on more than one time per day or leave it on all day like I do? What are your lamp life hours?


----------



## Project H

What aspect ratio screen should I get for my Epson 8350? I was going to get a 16:9 screen but now am thinking about 2.35.1 wide screen. I want to use this PJ for gaming (Xbox one), HDTV, Blu-rays... I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct? Also, the Epson doesn't have auto zoom so I'll need to manually adjust it when from the different sources to get the correct aspect ratio?


Which screen should I get - I would like to purchase it within a week.


I was considering the 120in 16:9 Focupix high contrast grey screen with .9 gain found here:

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix-Widescreen-Fixed-Frame-Screen-125-p/40027.htm


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fun5ten*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23507714
> 
> 
> Thanks Tesla1856
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes sense now and after a few articles I read from Google searching Image Retention, it explains it pretty well. It appears that DLP is immune, as is LED displays.
> 
> 
> More content is being broadcast in 16:9 nowadays, but I do like to watch the occasional 4:3 show. I will try the 4:30 stretch mode maintaining aspect ratio. I am currently helping a friend get back on his feet after losing a job and place to stay. He has been watching old shows on Netflix through his XBOX360. This is when the image retention became noticeable. Since the 8350 can have a different profile(memory 1-10) for type of signal, when his or my XBOX360 is being displayed, the projector is on ECO mode now. I also told my friend to watch an hour of 4:3, then a couple hours of 16:9, rather than several hours of 4:3 in a row.
> 
> 
> I too prefer genuine Epson lamps. From reading horror stories here and other sites about non-Epson housings causing damage to the projector, I am sticking with genuine Epson lamps. I get mine through Newegg.
> 
> 
> I have yet to do a study on leaving the projector on all day, with power to run it and reaching max bulb hours earlier as you mentioned, or having 2 or 3 power cycles per day. It took about 8 months for me to get to the 900 hours on the first bulb. But with my friend using it now, it reaches 900 hours in about 2 months, but that also includes leaving it on all day. If I were to replace the lamp every 2 to 3 months, I would be approaching lamp cost annually close to what the projector costs. Sure hope my friend can find work and move out soon to return to replacing the lamp close to annually.
> 
> 
> My projector is mainly run in normal mode and color set to dynamic.
> 
> 
> Curious as to what others do with their 8350 projector. Do you turn yours off/on more than one time per day or leave it on all day like I do? What are your lamp life hours?


DLP might be immune. I doubt LED-LCD is because that is just LCD with a different backlight. However, it might just be IPS-LCD that's susceptible because it's quite a bit different than TN-LCD tech. Not sure if these tiny 3LCD panels are closer to TN, IPS, or something else entirely.

 

Right, try 4:3 ZOOM to 16:9. But not STRETCH ... that makes everyone look fat because of the distorted aspect-ratio (unless you don't mind that). Bottom line, use the whole 16:9 screen.

 

The friend thing sounds temporary. My viewing habits don't apply (someone else will have to chime in) because we mostly use the plasma. We mostly only use the 8350 at dusk/night for a movie 2-3 times a week.


----------



## Lowkae

Hi, I'm throwing together a HT for my dorm room this fall and am trying to figure out my projector and screen options. For the projector I need good placement flexibility so it'll fit in future dorms/apartments. The projector's likely gonna go on a wooden component stand between the two beds. For the screen I'm pretty limited because I can only attach stuff to the wall using sticky tack and scotch tape. I was thinking of maybe just a sheet of background paper with some velveteen fabric taped around the edges. Thoughts on this? I might do it without the fabric frame because I'm worried the picture will be a pain to fit in the frame since the projector's not mounted. The walls are also a somewhat reflective tan.


The room only has one window in the corner and I'm planning on adding a cheapo blackout curtain on top of it to get the room really dark. I also have the Disney WOW calibration blu-ray. How good do you think the picture would look with this projector on a paper screen like this? Enough that I wouldn't wish I still had my $400 Samsung LED TV from last year?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lowkae*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23507856
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm throwing together a HT for my dorm room this fall and am trying to figure out my projector and screen options. For the projector I need good placement flexibility so it'll fit in future dorms/apartments. The projector's likely gonna go on a wooden component stand between the two beds. For the screen I'm pretty limited because I can only attach stuff to the wall using sticky tack and scotch tape. I was thinking of maybe just a sheet of background paper with some velveteen fabric taped around the edges. Thoughts on this? I might do it without the fabric frame because I'm worried the picture will be a pain to fit in the frame since the projector's not mounted. The walls are also a somewhat reflective tan.
> 
> 
> The room only has one window in the corner and I'm planning on adding a cheapo blackout curtain on top of it to get the room really dark. I also have the Disney WOW calibration blu-ray. How good do you think the picture would look with this projector on a paper screen like this? Enough that I wouldn't wish I still had my $400 Samsung LED TV from last year?


There is a calculator at epson.com. You need some room length for a big screen size. What color and texture is the wall bare?

 

Depending on room size (and the fact that you can't really "install anything") ... a nice big HDTV might be a smarter move ... definitely an easier install.


----------



## kevinwoodward

for whatever your paying to that school, can't they let you put some holes in the wall if you promise to patch them up?

what has this country become?


----------



## Project H

What aspect ratio screen should I get for my Epson 8350? I was going to get a 16:9 screen but now am thinking about 2.35.1 wide screen. I want to use this PJ for gaming (Xbox one), HDTV, Blu-rays... I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct? Also, the Epson doesn't have auto zoom so I'll need to manually adjust it when from the different sources to get the correct aspect ratio?


Which screen should I get - I would like to purchase it within a week.


I was considering the 120in 16:9 Focupix high contrast grey screen with .9 gain found here:

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix-Widescreen-Fixed-Frame-Screen-125-p/40027.htm


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

>>I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct?


No, the aspect ratios differ between different movies, even on Bluray. Cinemascope (2.35:1 / 2.4:1) is cool, but it does complicate things. You'll have to decide how you're going to deal with scaling the picture to fit your screen, and there are a few options: anamorphic lens; zoom method (make the image larger for cinemascope); "shrink" method (make the image smaller for 16:9). Pros and cons to each method. If the majority of your use will be movies, and "epic movies" at that (which tend to be cinemascope, vs. say comedies), 2.35:1 makes a lot of sense; if it will be 50+% 16:9 (comedy movies, sports, gaming), maybe not as much sense.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8190#post_23509115
> 
> 
> >>I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct?
> 
> 
> No, the aspect ratios differ between different movies, even on Bluray. Cinemascope (2.35:1 / 2.4:1) is cool, but it does complicate things. You'll have to decide how you're going to deal with scaling the picture to fit your screen, and there are a few options: anamorphic lens; zoom method (make the image larger for cinemascope); "shrink" method (make the image smaller for 16:9). Pros and cons to each method. If the majority of your use will be movies, and "epic movies" at that (which tend to be cinemascope, vs. say comedies), 2.35:1 makes a lot of sense; if it will be 50+% 16:9 (comedy movies, sports, gaming), maybe not as much sense.



Thanks for the input. So games even xbox one is 16:9? HDTV I believe is 16:9. It looks like to do less adjusting on the PJ 16:9 is a good option.


----------



## Lowkae




> Quote:
> There is a calculator at epson.com. You need some room length for a big screen size. What color and texture is the wall bare?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on room size (and the fact that you can't really "install anything") ... a nice big HDTV might be a smarter move ... definitely an easier install.



It's actually a larger dorm room: 11.5' X 16.5', so it's big enough to have a larger setup. I drew out a rough diagram
 


The only difference I'm planning is to put the projector on a component stand and keep everything else beneath it. The throw distance would be 8-9ish feet, so it would be on the low end of the projector's capabilities. The walls are shiny tan and slightly rough - don't know much more than that.


I've been using a 40" HDTV and it still takes up an entire dresser. The projector might even save space as long as the dimensions are favorable. The only problem is it would have to be stored somewhere when not in use as it could be kicked by someone sleeping at night if we leave it out.


Also keep in mind that I move into a new dorm every school year, live at home during the summer, and will eventually move into an apartment. So every location I move to will likely need a different sized screen. That's why I need something cheap, makeshift, and easily taken down.


----------



## Zeegle

I'm strongly considering picking up the 8350 as my first projector. However, I'm worried: I'd like this projector to be a good choice for at least 2 or 3 years, and it's already nearly 3 years old.


The other options at this price point are the BenQ W1070 and the Optoma HD25, but both of those have placement issues for me (I need around 110 or 120 at just over 15', from a shelf that's just barely as high as the screen will be).


Should I just go ahead and pull the trigger on the 8350? This is mostly for movies or serial HDTV (Breaking Bad/etc), and my eyes actually can't process 3D so that's a non-feature for me.


----------



## GTA Beancounter

3d is the only feature the 8350 is even close to lacking at its price point, the great picture and lens shift make it a very good choice. The next wave will be 4K. Buy the 8350 now and look forward to getting a 4K projector in about 5 years...


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck


Consider making a shelf you can both use the top as storage while HANGING the Epson underneath!  This way you place it higher on the wall and the image projects down while the top edge of the image is even with the lens's height.  This way it'll be elevated high enough so you can leave it in place (e.g not kicking it while you sleep) all semester long!


----------



## Itsdon

The projector may be 3 years old but it is still tops in the home theater field. Just took another award today from Lifehacker as the readers choice most popular projector.
http://lifehacker.com/most-popular-home-theater-projector-epson-powerlite-ho-718085709


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zeegle*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23510282
> 
> 
> I'm strongly considering picking up the 8350 as my first projector. However, I'm worried: I'd like this projector to be a good choice for at least 2 or 3 years, and it's already nearly 3 years old.
> 
> 
> The other options at this price point are the BenQ W1070 and the Optoma HD25, but both of those have placement issues for me (I need around 110 or 120 at just over 15', from a shelf that's just barely as high as the screen will be).
> 
> 
> Should I just go ahead and pull the trigger on the 8350? This is mostly for movies or serial HDTV (Breaking Bad/etc), and my eyes actually can't process 3D so that's a non-feature for me.



I just did this analysis a couple months ago. It is odd that a 3 year old projector can still compete with the rate of technology. But 1080p is still 1080p







.


The biggest issue with cheap projectors for me is lens shift and placement flexibility. It is not cheap to do this well. Optics have not changed that much in 3 years. And my guess is that is a large portion of where your money goes to for the 8350.


I am very happy with mine.

Salem


----------



## Lowkae

I can't damage or modify the walls at all.










I was planning on buying a component stand to hold the projector, receiver, blu-ray, etc. Problem is that the stand is only 24" tall and the picture will have to clear a 39" inch dresser and project a 85" screen from roughly 9' away. The Epson calculator says that's close to the limit of the 8350's vertical lens shift, but it should work.


Anything else I'm forgetting?


----------



## F12Bwth

Don't want to sound dicky.. But did you draw that room diagram when you were in kindergarten or is penmanship not needed to get into a college anymore.


Holy God.


Either way it is nicer than my dorm room was.


----------



## Lowkae

Heh, I originally didn't draw it back in the spring with the intention of posting it online somewhere. I was worried more about measuring out the dimensions of everything to make sure it fit. Anyways, it looks like the 8350 is a go once I find a good price on a refurb.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lowkae*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23512798
> 
> 
> Heh, I originally didn't draw it back in the spring with the intention of posting it online somewhere. I was worried more about measuring out the dimensions of everything to make sure it fit. Anyways, it looks like the 8350 is a go once I find a good price on a refurb.



If you have a Frys Electronics near you keep an eye out there. I've seen them on sale several times for $899, new.


----------



## Project H

What is the best mount for the 8350? I heard peerless and chief are good choices. What exactly do I need for the mount as it seems everything is sold separately ? Thanks


----------



## Spanky Mclovin

I just received my Epson 8350 refurbished model from Visual Apex and the focus ring doesn't work. Was so looking forward to it. Guess I will have to send it back.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23516366
> 
> 
> What is the best mount for the 8350? I heard peerless and chief are good choices. What exactly do I need for the mount as it seems everything is sold separately ? Thanks



I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TXNS6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1373541901&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX112_SY192 


It is mounted directly to my ceiling so I did not need any other pieces. If you needn't to hang down more you will need a mountig plate and a post to connect them.


I really like the geared head on this mount. It makes alignment easy!


Salem


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23516774
> 
> 
> I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TXNS6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1373541901&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX112_SY192
> 
> 
> It is mounted directly to my ceiling so I did not need any other pieces. If you needn't to hang down more you will need a mountig plate and a post to connect them.
> 
> 
> I really like the geared head on this mount. It makes alignment easy!
> 
> 
> Salem




I'm considering that mount too it's the peerless one. So I'm doing a ceiling mount and don't think I need the extender. Is all I need the bracket in the link?


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23519809
> 
> 
> I'm considering that mount too it's the peerless one. So I'm doing a ceiling mount and don't think I need the extender. Is all I need the bracket in the link?



Yup. Without an extender rotation is a little crude. It is done by loosening the screws that attach it to the ceiling. All other adjustments are geared and very nice.


Although mine is directly mounted to a horizontal surface it is a couple feet down from the ceiling due to my slanted roof/wall.


----------



## MississippiMan

Pulllleeese! Guys, if a choice is to be made between a Chief RPA -168 and a Peerless PRG-UNV, the Chief is the ONLY choice to make.


I mean c'mon....does it make sense to use a Universal with Spider Legs and all the potential for loosening that comes with such, or a Mount that uses a "Shoe" attachment and whose Pitch & Yaw adjustment screws reside in a tucked-in, hard to reach location, when there is a Mounting system available with a dedicated PJ interface Plate ? And choosing it instead of a system that has 12 robust adjustment Screws?

http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...50 Installations/ACHIEFMOUNTImage145.jpg.html  


The Chief Mount is still a lower profile choice than the Peerless. In the image below you see 3 of the 12 adjustment screws. When they are all tightened, that Mount will NEVER get out of the preferred adjustment.

http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...zler Screen and Theater/aRPARearView.jpg.html  

 


Even though the Peerless is an order of magnitude better a choice than say...a Mustang or Video-Secure, it still amounts to being a "Pivot" Mount whose adjustments are not nearly as easy to make because all adjustments are centered within a very small area.


Not being a hater here...but I've used the Peerless systems about 7-8 times before on several different, and until I discovered the Chief RPA. There is no going back...that would be like deciding to go back to walking instead of Driving 25 miles, You might get there...but it won't be as effective a choice. Halfway there you'll find reasons you should have chosen more wisely.


Drops are easily made to order to any lengths using PVC Pipe & Couplings.

http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...nstallations/A8350hanginout-Image154.jpg.html  


If above Ceiling access is available, you can accomplish a very attractive installation using the companion part below ****:

 

****The companion part *is* a Peerless offering..... The Peerless *ACC570* Round Ceiling Plate:

 


Here is a example of using the Peerless Plate with the RPA-168 and a 6" PVC/Coupling combo:

http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/6010hanging.jpg.html  


.........or you can combine the ACC570 with a 2" Threaded Steel Nipple....:

 


.....and even then, the overall distance from a mounting surface is within 1/2" of the Peerless assembly when it's mounted directly to that surface. yes, it can also be mounted directly as well, but in truth, the PJ needs enough space between a inverted mount onto a Ceiling and the PJ casing to avoid thermal "Blanketing" issues, never mind the difficulty of trying to squeeze your hand into a 3" space to release the Peerless Shoe by twisting / pulling out the single set screw. ( I have large hands so perhaps I'm over-stressing that point a tid-bit. )


I advocate the use of the Chief over the el'cheapos, and virtually all others regardless of price because it's easy to get everything right the first go-around, and then it STAYS that way. I tell all ya all the truth when I say the Peerless just doesn't allow for that level of user confidence. It's a drastic improvement over the Flea-Bay specials...no doubt about that, but there is...in my opinion based on several years experience...just too much of a difference to consider anything else BUT a Chief solution if a PJ Dedicated RPA Mount is available.


All that said, I would be remiss if I did not relate that the best place to obtain both the RPA-168 and the ACC570 is *Projector People*, and *Kirk Ritari @ ext. 2002* knows exactly what you need, and by telling him your a AVS referral you'll get the best price...absolutely.


You don't even have to drop my name.










PS,


RPA-168 $130.00

ACC570 $ 20.00


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23520220
> 
> 
> Yup. Without an extender rotation is a little crude. It is done by loosening the screws that attach it to the ceiling. All other adjustments are geared and very nice.
> 
> 
> Although mine is directly mounted to a horizontal surface it is a couple feet down from the ceiling due to my slanted roof/wall.



Even after all I stated above, I will say that your application is at least among the better ones I have seen using the Peerless system. My opinionated stance is just that....and it's only defense comes from many repeated instances being compared to past ones involving the Peerless.


Ya done good there, so Kudos are due you in that respect.


----------



## eyekode

Yo


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23520707
> 
> 
> Even after all I stated above, I will say that your application is at least among the better ones I have seen using the Peerless system. My opinionated stance is just that....and it's only defense comes from many repeated instances being compared to past ones involving the Peerless.
> 
> 
> Ya done good there, so Kudos are due you in that respect.



You make a good argument. A metal plate sounds better than a generic mount to me too.


However I don't have any problem accessing the set screw to remove the projector. And the mechanism makes sure when I take down the projector and put it back up it will still be aligned. Maybe the mount you suggested is the same in this respect?


Another consideration is this will not be my last projector. When 4k is affordable I will get a new one I should not have to replace the mount. I just hope the 2 cat6 cables I ran can transmit the signal








.


But I have only mounted one of these projectors. You probably have mounted more of this model then anyone else on the planet







.


Thanks for chiming in!

Salem


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23520987
> 
> 
> 
> But I have only mounted one of these projectors. You probably have mounted more of this model then anyone else on the planet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thanks for chiming in!
> 
> Salem



Possibly.







When this Gem came out, I was pretty amped, because the earlier Epson UB units were doing great things at 1600 lumen output. The 8350's feature set is ideal for a Installer, and it's performance went hand-in-glove with helping to bring Front Projection into mainstream, living room / family room situations. Hence why you see so many of my examples in such rooms.


Well that, and the fact that most people I can convince to go that direction also do not want to spend for a more expensive, Theater-oriented PJ.


Recently though, when I fall back to the acceptance of people spending as much today, comparatively speaking... as they did for the 8350 when it was first released, there are more choices to be had today at or near that price point than I could have hoped for. But still, I saw it coming, so I embrace all possibilities.


My latest favorite? BenQ SH940 Just imagine...a 8350 Feature set only in a DLP with 50K:1 CR and 4000 lumen. That and similar Short Throw PJs. I'm all about doing things that eliminate all the concerns and considerations that have plagued FP wannabees. Deep contrast w/more Lumen and H&V Lens Shift equates to being able to use a PJ in circumstances where none dared tread 3 years ago.


----------



## nitemare004

Hello again,

I had my 8350 for a little while and enjoying it, I just moved into a new house which is what I originally bought it for. I put it into a small living room, making the screen 108" diag. max. I am still in the process of making the picture as good as I can get it.


I painted the wall behr silver screen, I am wondering if the picture will look much better if I go ahead and change it to silver fire 4.0 or maybe even 5.0?


Which brings me to my next question.. I have a good bit of ambient light as there is the front door next to the screen, perpendicular to it, with an oval window. I can't find any attractive ideas to block out this light except for spraying frost on it but it only helped a little.

The other side of the room is open going into the well lit kitchen (from ambient light).


So far I still have to wait until the sun goes down for movie night









I could use some better settings I supposed, so far I just use dynamic with the brightness turned up some.


Was thinking of making a hole in the wall making the screen set in further but seems like a lot of work with the wood beams in the wall.


After looking at the picture on my sisters new 65" tv it kinda makes me want to upgrade my projector haha

of course they probably spent a couple grand more than I did.


Just to clarify I am very happy with the picture at night or even cable tv in the day. Just seems like a waste of a movie to watch it in all the ambient light. At the same time I wish I could watch it in the day time light, not having to be in the dark in the day time. Maybe my issue is just because of the maxed out screen size? Or perhaps lamp is not as bright anymore and I can't tell. Not at hope now to check hours on it but it can't have that many.

 
 

I know it looks like a lot of light coming from the window but it actually doesn't affect the screen as much as the door does which is why I didn't cover them yet (but I will). It also looks more exaggerated in the pic for some reason. I can close the window blinds more when needed. Pictures taken around 7PM


----------



## jnabq

I have a couple french doors with inframe blinds in my room, but there was still a bit of light coming through the blinds. I tinted the windows and it worked great. Might be an option, that is fairly cheap you can try. Only issue is, if the window does catch direct sunlight, you might be limited on the amount of tint you can apply, due to the heat absorption. Might be worth looking into?


----------



## MississippiMan

Nitemare,


First off, a recess that would be deep enough to be able to offset the amount of "Direct" light coming from that Oval Door Window would have to be well over 2' deep. We both know that isn't gonna happen.








*

Silver Fire* *4.0* would make a very noticeable difference,much more so than SS, but even so, with a 8350 in play, competing against direct sunlight hitting a screen and getting a unaffected image is not a possibility. Even the brightest LED/LCD/Plasma displays will suffer under such circumstances.


It would seem to me that making a removable semi-opaque Oval insert with an attractive color or graphic facing toward the outside would be a easy solution when critical Movie watching in the daytime is desired. Another option would be a hinged opaque Screen, sized to fit within the Square Door molding, that could be swung to the side when not needed.


You've made the decision to go BIG with a PJ and screen, so making the few other correct decisions needed to allow such to be enjoyable should be considered as being part of the equation.


But first, let that dog out...he looks......needy.


----------



## nitemare004

lol at least I made the one correct decision









I'll see what I can come up with I guess

thanks!


oh yeah that's a kitten lol

it is hard to tell now that you say that 



edit: Actually I have a little over 1200 lamp hours! Didn't think I had that much time into it already. Does the picture dull over time or does it stay roughly the same until it goes out? I swear the cinema mode used to be brighter and now I can't find myself wanting to use it. I guess I'll be buying another soon judging by how long other people's last. I'm unaware of how that works with the warranty.


----------



## MississippiMan

Furgudnessake! Absolutely...PJ lamps dim up to 50% in brightness at 500 hrs, and then slowly dim further until they either fail or are replaced because they are just too dim to tolerate anymore.


If you bought the 8350 less than 2 years ago, you should be covered by their program that covered the Lamp for the life of the PJ warranty. Usually that requires that the Lamp be almost non usable, or blown, but in any case, contacting Epson CS and telling them that the Lamp is deplorably dim at 1000 hrs may well get you a replacement. Standard procedure is that you will have to send the old lamp in or be charged "after the fact".


Otherwise"

http://www.amazon.com/Electrified-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Replacement-Projectors/dp/B004S79ZI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374161339&sr=8-1&keywords=Electrified+Projector+Lamp+for+Epson+8350 


Check out the price.










I tried one of these units and found it to be exemplary. And at the price listed, you can justify getting one asap if needed.


Or this one for a little bit more, but it comes with a 1yr replacement:

http://www.amazon.com/Projector-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Projectors-Replacement/dp/B00AOU4QVA/ref=pd_cp_e_3 


.......oh, thanks for the "Thumb".


----------



## nitemare004

Well that makes sense then, So basically I didn't get to see it in it's original brightness in the room I intended it to be in all along!

Phew, $50 is a lot better than the $250 I thought it was (never recently checked) but I must be thinking of what they used to cost.

I also ordered the SF paints I'll be trying out the mix when I get the chance.

Thanks for the help


----------



## MississippiMan

Cat...Dog....whatever it is it seems to be taking undue interest in that floor mat.










(...I liked 'em all though.....







)


Be sure to check back in before you start any painting. Ask whatever whenever. But do that here:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section 


...and author a new Thread so your responses will be dedicated.


----------



## kevinwoodward

you could put up some curtain rods with a small curtain

i use it on my door that has 2 side windows

i just put up a shear, you could use something more solid.


a top rod and a bottom rod.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23520695
> 
> 
> Pulllleeese! Guys, if a choice is to be made between a Chief RPA -168 and a Peerless PRG-UNV, the Chief is the ONLY choice to make.
> 
> 
> I mean c'mon....does it make sense to use a Universal with Spider Legs and all the potential for loosening that comes with such, or a Mount that uses a "Shoe" attachment and whose Pitch & Yaw adjustment screws reside in a tucked-in, hard to reach location, when there is a Mounting system available with a dedicated PJ interface Plate ? And choosing it instead of a system that has 12 robust adjustment Screws?
> 
> http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...50 Installations/ACHIEFMOUNTImage145.jpg.html
> 
> 
> The Chief Mount is still a lower profile choice than the Peerless. In the image below you see 3 of the 12 adjustment screws. When they are all tightened, that Mount will NEVER get out of the preferred adjustment.
> 
> http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...zler Screen and Theater/aRPARearView.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the Peerless is an order of magnitude better a choice than say...a Mustang or Video-Secure, it still amounts to being a "Pivot" Mount whose adjustments are not nearly as easy to make because all adjustments are centered within a very small area.
> 
> 
> Not being a hater here...but I've used the Peerless systems about 7-8 times before on several different, and until I discovered the Chief RPA. There is no going back...that would be like deciding to go back to walking instead of Driving 25 miles, You might get there...but it won't be as effective a choice. Halfway there you'll find reasons you should have chosen more wisely.
> 
> 
> Drops are easily made to order to any lengths using PVC Pipe & Couplings.
> 
> http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Mi...nstallations/A8350hanginout-Image154.jpg.html
> 
> 
> If above Ceiling access is available, you can accomplish a very attractive installation using the companion part below ****:
> 
> 
> 
> ****The companion part *is* a Peerless offering..... The Peerless *ACC570* Round Ceiling Plate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a example of using the Peerless Plate with the RPA-168 and a 6" PVC/Coupling combo:
> 
> http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/6010hanging.jpg.html
> 
> 
> .........or you can combine the ACC570 with a 2" Threaded Steel Nipple....:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....and even then, the overall distance from a mounting surface is within 1/2" of the Peerless assembly when it's mounted directly to that surface. yes, it can also be mounted directly as well, but in truth, the PJ needs enough space between a inverted mount onto a Ceiling and the PJ casing to avoid thermal "Blanketing" issues, never mind the difficulty of trying to squeeze your hand into a 3" space to release the Peerless Shoe by twisting / pulling out the single set screw. ( I have large hands so perhaps I'm over-stressing that point a tid-bit. )
> 
> 
> I advocate the use of the Chief over the el'cheapos, and virtually all others regardless of price because it's easy to get everything right the first go-around, and then it STAYS that way. I tell all ya all the truth when I say the Peerless just doesn't allow for that level of user confidence. It's a drastic improvement over the Flea-Bay specials...no doubt about that, but there is...in my opinion based on several years experience...just too much of a difference to consider anything else BUT a Chief solution if a PJ Dedicated RPA Mount is available.
> 
> 
> All that said, I would be remiss if I did not relate that the best place to obtain both the RPA-168 and the ACC570 is *Projector People*, and *Kirk Ritari @ ext. 202* knows exactly what you need, and by telling him your a AVS referral you'll get the best price...absolutely.
> 
> 
> You don't even have to drop my name.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS,
> 
> 
> RPA-168 $130.00
> 
> ACC570 $ 20.00



To get this straight - for a Cheif mount I'll need a RPA-168. Chief does not make a ceiling plate so thats why i need to use the peerless ceiling plate (ACC570) for a cleaner install. I don't really need a long extension but I think a small extension at like 4" would be nice to get better access to the projector. I'm going to be mounting my projector on a bulkhead so it'll be lower height wise therefore no need for a long extender. What extender piece do you recommend to use with this set up and does chief make small extenders?


Thanks!!


----------



## MississippiMan

Ya got it all down right.


Pipe Extenders sold by the PJ Mount Companies are crazy over priced.


If you want a quick solution, Home Depot sells a 4" / 6" version of the Threaded Steel Nipple shown above. Just wash it off with a good Cleaner to remove any Machine Oil, and there ya go. (...but use a few drops of *3in1 Oil* on the threads at each end to allow for easy assembly...)


BTW...OOPS! Kirk's Extension at Projector People is *2002*


----------



## Project H





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23540654
> 
> 
> Ya got it all down right.
> 
> 
> Pipe Extenders sold by the PJ Mount Companies are crazy over priced.
> 
> 
> If you want a quick solution, Home Depot sells a 4" / 6" version of the Threaded Steel Nipple shown above. Just wash it off with a good Cleaner to remove any Machine Oil, and there ya go. (...but use a few drops of *3in1 Oil* on the threads at each end to allow for easy assembly...)
> 
> 
> BTW...OOPS! Kirk's Extension at Projector People is *2002*



thanks - i dont mind getting an actual extender but the smallest one I found on amazon are 6" - see below:

http://www.amazon.com/Sanus-Systems-CMS006-Extension-Column/dp/B000TSCL8C/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y 


where can I get other pipe extenders that are compatible with this mount and ceiling plate about 2 - 4"


thanks!!


----------



## Project H

by the way, on a separate note - I just fired up my 8350 for the first time this past weekend to get an idea on what sceen size i needed. my wife noticed when she came into the room that there was a burning type smell. I could also tell there was some distinct burning type smell emitting from the projector. Is this common and to be expected all the time or just because this is a new PJ? Im not sure if burning is the right word to describe it but it was noticeable when you entered the room.


thanks


----------



## MississippiMan

Hmmm...there have been only a few instances I know of....but the same thing occurs occasionally across the gamut of PJ MFGs.


Causes can range from excess Solder Flux, to some loose packing material. If there is no smoke, and the smell seems sharp and acrid, it's probably "something" burning some type of coating off. A components such as the Lamp Housing might have a piece of Paper / Adhesive or Plastic Sliver in contact with the Lamp Reflector.


It's easy enough to check. Take the PJ down and remove the lamp. No scorched mark? Then it's almost assuredly a higher voltage point on a Power Supply IC Distribution Board. Things like a major shorted line or Lamp connection would flash, smoke, and there would be no more operation. Only something Foreign contacting the side of the Lamp Shield or a "Brown" IC Contact point where Flux/excess Solder is heating up would let the PJ continue operating while stinking.


History has seen 75% of the units get returned regardless of cause, while of the remaining 25% I can't think of any case where it was reported the smell didn't go away and nothing untoward happened.


Obviously there were more people who were worried /concerned / unhappy than those who opted to stick it out. But another over riding reason those who did keep the PJ decided to do so? Because everything else on the PJ was virtually perfect. The 'ol "Bird in the Hand" syndrome.


What % are you gonna be?


----------



## hanly2

My 2 year old 8350 with only 1500 hours on it is giving me a red flashing light under the "lamp" designation. Do I have to replace the lamp or can I reset something, I have hardly used this thing.


----------



## ratpacker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanly2*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23541475
> 
> 
> My 2 year old 8350 with only 1500 hours on it is giving me a red flashing light under the "lamp" designation. Do I have to replace the lamp or can I reset something, I have hardly used this thing.



I understand your frustration at needing a new bulb well before the claimed lamp life is reached, but to say you have 1500 hrs. on it and you've hardly used it? Huh?


----------



## hanly2

Sure its about 32 months old so it equates to about 15 min per day. I would call that hardly using it. Im not ecen sure its at 1500, but I wont know until I get a new lamp.










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23541360
> 
> 
> Hmmm...there have been only a few instances I know of....but the same thing occurs occasionally across the gamut of PJ MFGs.
> 
> 
> Causes can range from excess Solder Flux, to some loose packing material. If there is no smoke, and the smell seems sharp and acrid, it's probably "something" burning some type of coating off. A components such as the Lamp Housing might have a piece of Paper / Adhesive or Plastic Sliver in contact with the Lamp Reflector.
> 
> 
> It's easy enough to check. Take the PJ down and remove the lamp. No scorched mark? Then it's almost assuredly a higher voltage point on a Power Supply IC Distribution Board. Things like a major shorted line or Lamp connection would flash, smoke, and there would be no more operation. Only something Foreign contacting the side of the Lamp Shield or a "Brown" IC Contact point where Flux/excess Solder is heating up would let the PJ continue operating while stinking.
> 
> 
> History has seen 75% of the units get returned regardless of cause, while of the remaining 25% I can't think of any case where it was reported the smell didn't go away and nothing untoward happened.
> 
> 
> Obviously there were more people who were worried /concerned / unhappy than those who opted to stick it out. But another over riding reason those who did keep the PJ decided to do so? Because everything else on the PJ was virtually perfect. The 'ol "Bird in the Hand" syndrome.
> 
> 
> What % are you gonna be?




I have a 4-year warranty on my PJ as I have a service plan with Best Buy and it includes 1 extra bulb free. The projector is operating fine without any issues so I'm not trying to return it just because I smell something. The smell is faint but its noticeable to those that come into the room. Do projectors - or the 8350 in particular have any kind of smell they generate of the projector operating or from the lamp? Obviously the lamp gets hot so its possible its just normal but I have nothing to compare it against. I currently just had it sitting on a table thats why its probably more noticeable rather than being higher up and mounted on the ceiling.


----------



## Project H

with regard to the projector mount - does it need to be mounted into a stud? im assuming this is recommended.


thanks!


----------



## Tom Ace

Officially out of Epson camp. 2.5 years and (6) 8350's later, I've had enough. It was great when it worked but after broken fan, over heating, dust blobs, bad flickers, internal problems, etc it was time to move on. I couldn't go longer than 6 mos or 400 hours without some problem that required them to send me a new one.


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23553654
> 
> 
> Officially out of Epson camp. 2.5 years and (6) 8350's later, I've had enough. It was great when it worked but after broken fan, over heating, dust blobs, bad flickers, internal problems, etc it was time to move on. I couldn't go longer than 6 mos or 400 hours without some problem that required them to send me a new one.



I don't blame you. I've been lucky, this one has lasted almost a year now so hopefully I have a keeper but it is my 3rd unit in the last 20 months (6th if you count the ones I immediately sent back that were DOA).


Agreed, it's great when it works so I'm hoping this one lasts awhile.


What are you thinking of getting now?


----------



## Project H

with regard to the projector mount - does it need to be mounted into a stud? im assuming this is recommended.


thanks!


----------



## Tom Ace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23554300
> 
> 
> I don't blame you. I've been lucky, this one has lasted almost a year now so hopefully I have a keeper but it is my 3rd unit in the last 20 months (6th if you count the ones I immediately sent back that were DOA).
> 
> 
> Agreed, it's great when it works so I'm hoping this one lasts awhile.
> 
> 
> What are you thinking of getting now?




Went with the Panny PT-AE8000U. better color, better image, better build, completely satisfied so far.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23553654
> 
> 
> Officially out of Epson camp. 2.5 years and (6) 8350's later, I've had enough. It was great when it worked but after broken fan, over heating, dust blobs, bad flickers, internal problems, etc it was time to move on. I couldn't go longer than 6 mos or 400 hours without some problem that required them to send me a new one.



Same here, I went through (4) 8350's from over heating, dust bolbs, auto iris errors. I did however make it to 768hrs on one of the four projectors, but got a full refund back from Epson at the end.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Ace*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23555831
> 
> 
> Went with the Panny PT-AE8000U. better color, better image, better build, completely satisfied so far.



I too went with the PT-AE8000U after the 8350. Not a single problem and up to 1000hrs so far with it.


----------



## Grayson73

The PT-AE8000U has less vertical lens shift than the 8350, right?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grayson73*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23556280
> 
> 
> The PT-AE8000U has less vertical lens shift than the 8350, right?



Yes....by about 25%. It's still appreciable though.


----------



## MississippiMan

I only wish everyone who has posted about re-occurring issues could have had my success with the 8350. My count it up to almost 30 units installed, with just 5 Lamps out before 1500 hours, and only 3 with any of the serious issues such as have been discussed here. (Iris noise...Power failure) Not a one has had Convergence issues or Color irregularities. Also, 90% of the units installed are used everyday as TV entertainment. Several have indeed had lamps be replaced....at the 2800-4000 hr mark.


I've pretty much moved on from the 8350, into PJs like the Panny 8K and Mega-Lumen BenQs, but one testomonial for the 8350s I have out in the Public Domain is that excepting those occasional Lamp replacements, I don't hear from the end users hardly ever, and if I do, I play 'ell trying to convince them they should consider upgrading.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23554509
> 
> 
> with regard to the projector mount - does it need to be mounted into a stud? im assuming this is recommended.
> 
> 
> thanks!




Not necessarily...if you use a Round Projector Plate like the Peerless ACC570 and some "Pull Out Anchors" (...they have 80 lb ratings...)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM1181771814P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM1437192614&sid=IDx20130125xMPTLSx025 

 


If you have access above, simply placing some Plywood on top the Drywall, glued in place with Elmers Wood Glue is more than adequate.


----------



## aijuswannasing

As much as I love pull out / "butterfly" anchors... Even if rated at 80lbs, it's the drywall itself you need to worry about.


At the very least, please hit one screw into a stud.


If your sweet spot is directly in an area without a stud, consider installing a plank/board first set into the nearest studs - then mount to that. Considering the 8350 has the lens shift, you probably don't need to go this route, but it may be helpful if you ever swap things out later.


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aijuswannasing*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23565077
> 
> 
> As much as I love pull out / "butterfly" anchors... Even if rated at 80lbs, it's the drywall itself you need to worry about.
> 
> 
> At the very least, please hit one screw into a stud.
> 
> 
> If your sweet spot is directly in an area without a stud, consider installing a plank/board first set into the nearest studs - then mount to that. Considering the 8350 has the lens shift, you probably don't need to go this route, but it may be helpful if you ever swap things out later.



I agree! I would not _suspend_ anything from drywall. If you are running wires for a projector you must be doing drywall work. A little more won't hurt







.

Salem


----------



## gtrscort




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyekode*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23565500
> 
> 
> I agree! I would not _suspend_ anything from drywall. If you are running wires for a projector you must be doing drywall work. A little more won't hurt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Salem



A little off topic but how you recommend hanging a drop down projector screen used to cover a flat screen on the wall?


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtrscort*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23565556
> 
> 
> A little off topic but how you recommend hanging a drop down projector screen used to cover a flat screen on the wall?



Most Mfg Retractable Screens come with Hardware that adapts to either Wall or Ceiling mounting options. For a Wall installation, you would need to install some Blocks for such Hardware to attach to that moves the Screen's drop bar to at least 3/4" forward of the TV's face. With most Flat Panels using a Low Profile Wall Mount, that will mean at least 3".


But if any such installation deserves to be considered "iffy", it would be the above. A strong, sizable block, one that extends to cover at least one stud, and whose surface in contact with the wall is reinforced by using Wood Glue would be at minimum the recommended way to go. When a heavy object is extended out at right angles, both it's weight and gravity increases the pull (down force) at the lowest point of contact, and does so in a multiple of the actual weight of the given object. Anything that "hangs" only depends upon the basic "Holding Strength" of both the fastener and material combined.


Not trying to be either snippy or anything, but the preceding comments about the usefulness and effectiveness....and reliability of both Drywall and Anchors are way...WAY off the mark. They seem to be coming from those with limited experience, as well as repeating comments coming from other such sources.


Basically, I have done many installations on Drywall surfaces, involving TVs, Screens, Projectors, Speaker Cabinetry, etc....both Horizontal and Vertical, using "appropriate" Anchors, and never...not one time has either safety or dependability been jeopardized. To see any comment that effectively tries to exclude the use of "properly chosen & installed" Drywall Anchors...even going so far as to warn someone to not even attempt such, is tantamount to denying someone a viable installation method on what amounts to speculative reasoning. I say that because any experiences that involve proper selection and use amounts to exactly that...experience.


It seems more like the comments above are based on limited experience with Anchors other than the Toggle type. I don't want to explore...or even consider that such experiences might also involve a less-than proper use thereof.


All that said, I don't want to start a row on this Thread over Anchors.










Just for digestion:
Any vertically installed Anchor is only as strong as it's interior surface contact and the degree of compression. Toggle Anchors are stronger than "Expandable Sleeve" Anchors by a factor of almost 5x...even more as the width of the Toggle increases.
The above also applies to Anchors installed on a Flat, Horizontal surface
A Toggle Anchor's strength is directly proportionate to the width of of the Toggle, combined with the size of the contacting exterior base of the assembly being hung.
A vertically hung Anchor of *ANY* given design / size will have less effective holding strength than a identically installed Anchor on a Horizontal surface.
If a clean, non-pushed-through "Drilled" hole is effected through Drywall to install a Toggle Anchor, absolutely no surface tension strength is compromised.
Obviously, if one can gain access to the area above where a Object is to be mounted onto a Ceiling, gluing down even a 4" x 4" x 1/2" piece of Plywood, then drilling through that and installing a Toggle Anchor will effect a even greater assurance of lateral holding strength


Any modest sized Retractable Screen (106" & under) or any PJ weighing in under 25 lbs should present no issues if a proper installation of the fasteners is accommodated. Absolutely, the previous advice given stressing caution is well founded, however along with that, it should be stressed that exercising such caution by following directions exactly, and/or taking paints to improve any supporting structure's integrity when it's in anyway in doubt, can only be construed as being....a good thing.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aijuswannasing*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23565077
> 
> 
> 
> If your sweet spot is directly in an area without a stud, consider installing a plank/board first set into the nearest studs - then mount to that. Considering the 8350 has the lens shift, you probably don't need to go this route, but it may be helpful if you ever swap things out later.



This sort of thing cannot hurt, although it does bulk up what might otherwise be a more pristine installation. I have done similar, but my real motive was to "cover" the Hole I made to bring out wiring and the access to a Electrical Box mounted up inside a Floor or Ceiling. Even then, the use of Anchors to "Clamp" a Mount assembly to the Ceiling is the final touch.


----------



## Itsdon

I'm right there with you Mississippi Man. My 8350 is using big ole toggle bolts and I could probably hang onto my PJ and do pull-ups on it. They work perfectly.


----------



## TheBored

I was rather disappointed to find a dead bulb when I got back from work today. The original bulb lasted 3800-3900 hours, its replacement only managed 1500ish. Since it lasted 9 months or so I wasn't terribly excited to drop another $300 on a bulb from Epson. Due to MississippiMan's glowing review of the knockoff bulbs, I'm giving one of em a shot... specifically this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TAGX0U/ 


I will try to followup with my comments. Feel free to PM me to post a review if I don't come back around.


TB


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheBored*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23576017
> 
> 
> Epson. Due to MississippiMan's glowing review of the knockoff bulbs, I'm giving one of em a shot... specifically this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TAGX0U/
> 
> 
> I will try to followup with my comments. Feel free to PM me to post a review if I don't come back around.
> 
> 
> TB



I'm sure if that lamp goes "pffft" too quickly you'll be back.










When I went shopping for such Discounted Lamps, one criteria was the ability to get a extended warranty out to 180 days. Even if the price went out to $90.00 doing so, it was in my reasoning a prudent choice to make.


In as much as most of the PJs installed by me belong to power users (TV/Gaming) the lamps do get used considerably more than any dedicated Theater application. So affordable replacement is going to be very desirable.


Strangley enough, the link provided above garnered me a chance to find this gem:
http://www.amazon.com/Projector-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Projectors-Replacement/dp/B00AOU4QVA/ref=pd_sim_e_7 

....coming from the same source, but one that comes with a full year replacement.....all for only about $20.00 more.


Look carefully and choose wisely, my friends.


----------



## Derek Day

I had a question for the 8350 owners out there. I know the projector does lens shift, but will it shift vertically down?? My current screen starts at 4" from my ceiling (basement only has 8ft ceilings) even with a low profile ceiling mount the image out of the box is going to be about 6-10" below the ceiling so I will need to "shift" it down, which is technically "up" when hanging from a ceiling mount.


----------



## Steven Kelley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Derek Day*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23578335
> 
> 
> I had a question for the 8350 owners out there. I know the projector does lens shift, but will it shift vertically down?? My current screen starts at 4" from my ceiling (basement only has 8ft ceilings) even with a low profile ceiling mount the image out of the box is going to be about 6-10" below the ceiling so I will need to "shift" it down, which is technically "up" when hanging from a ceiling mount.



Yes


----------



## F12Bwth

The Diagram from the Manual.


----------



## Derek Day

Thanks!


----------



## mehal88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Derek Day*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23578335
> 
> 
> I had a question for the 8350 owners out there. I know the projector does lens shift, but will it shift vertically down?? My current screen starts at 4" from my ceiling (basement only has 8ft ceilings) even with a low profile ceiling mount the image out of the box is going to be about 6-10" below the ceiling so I will need to "shift" it down, which is technically "up" when hanging from a ceiling mount.



It should. That is what a vertical lens shift is supposed to do...


----------



## Tnilsson

I just received my 8350. In setting it up, I noticed some keystoning of my image. I suspect I can correct that with the lens-shift feature, but I read somewhere that you should avoid lens-shift to the extent possible as it can lead to a worse image than if you don't use it. I have no idea as optics are not my forte. Can anyone confirm whether lens-shift should be avoided (if possible) and that the 8350 has no keystone correction (if it does, I can't find it). If it helps, I have the projector mounted 12.5' from my screen and directly to my 8' high ceiling (give or take the height of my Chief mount). I am guessing that I just have to experiment to find the sweet spot between tilting my mount and using the lens-shift.


Also, I ran my Spears & Munsil calibration DVD (1st Ed) and noticed that some (but not all) of the photos the disk shows you at the beginning, and a number of the calibration patterns, are off at the top: the top of the image bends strongly toward the left across the entire image and about 1/10 of the way down from the top. It's as if the signal is being interfered with. It's been some time since I've used this disk, so I don't know if it's the disk, my blu-ray player, or the projector. I have not noticed any similar shift when watching any movie (either in 16:9 or 4:3 mode). And the projector's own pattern image is straight all the way across. I have, however, noticed that the image, when using zoom with a 16:9 movie, makes everything look like it is projected on a wavy background, such as on the ocean. It may be my blu-ray player settings, though if so, I have no idea which ones. I plan to investigate, but if anyone has any thoughts, they'd be appreciated. I'm much more knowledgeable about audio than video. If it helps, I am using an Oppo BDP-83 blu-ray player which is currently connected to my 8350 via component as I have yet to replace the old component cable in my walls/ceiling with an HDMI cable, though I plan to do that shortly.


Thanks for any help.


----------



## horseflesh

You are supposed to use lens-shift and avoid in-PJ keystone adjustment.


If you see keystone distortion, adjust the PJ at the mount until the keystone is gone, then use shift to center it on the screen.


----------



## F12Bwth

Keystone in the classic sense means the projector is not perfectly perpendicular to the screen. Straiten it out and level it and then the image should be square.


----------



## Tnilsson

Hmm. It looks to me like the keystone is the same on both sides at the top of my image (meaning, I assume, that my projector is perpendicular with my screen in the horizontal plane but not the vertical plane, which would be correct as it's mounted above my screen). So it sounds like I should put it back to shining straight ahead, with most of the image being projected at the top of and above my screen, and then move the image down using the lens-shift controls. I'll do that. Thanks.


----------



## nphan

I received my refurbished 8350 from Visual Apex last week and it came with a dust blob and discoloration on 1/4 of the left side of the screen in Cinema and lower modes. The discoloration went away if use the two top high light modes(Dynamic and living room). (BTW: You can hear some mechanical shifting noise when move from high power modes such as Living room to Cinema mode).Convergence is very good on this one. Due to the issue with the discoloration I sent this one back and just received another refurbished 8350 yesterday. But this one is DoA. The focus ring is stuck and the zoom ring is stiff/hard to turn. Convergence is way bad on this new one also. But this may due to the focus is stuck. So will send this one back next week. Now I am not sure what to get. Thinking about may be replaced this with refurbished 5010? I want to go with DLP but RBE is bad for me. So anyhow here is how to clean the dust blobs on the 8350:

Yes cleaning the dust blobs on the Espon 8350 is fairly easy. You need a small Philip crew driver to take the top cover off and a compressed air spray can. To take the top cover off, you need to remove all the crews on the side panels. These are the brown side covers on both sides of the projector. They are held by 3 crews on the bottom. Just remove these crews and side panels can be taking out by pulling on the bottom part outward. Then remove all the crews that on the bottom cover. These crews hold the top cover to the bottom cover. Once you remove these crews you can turn the projector over and pull the top cover straight up. It will come out easily. One notice, There will be 2 ribbons cables that you will need to remove to take the cover off. One is on the side panel that has all the controls for adjustment. Other is on the top cover. These can be taking out by releasing the small plastic clamp on the socket where the ribbon cable is attached to the board. If you have a good helper you may be able to leave these ribbon cables in and have them hold the covers for you while you do the spraying. To spray the dust blobs, you need to locate the 3 LCD ribbons cables coming from the LCDs to the top circuit board. The LCDs are covered by the circuit board, but you can use the openings where the ribbon cables go through the board to spray the dust blobs. The spray can comes with the extension tube, use it to get access to the LCDs area. Make sure the spray can is always in vertical position. I sprayed short bursts of air to the LCDs area may be about 5 minutes. Most of the 5 minutes is to reposition the can and projector. Spray time is much less may be 1 minute. Hold/position the projector any way to allow you to make sure the spray can is vertical at all time. After this I was able to remove the dust blobs on my 8350.


----------



## gtrscort




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23566769
> 
> 
> Most Mfg Retractable Screens come with Hardware that adapts to either Wall or Ceiling mounting options. For a Wall installation, you would need to install some Blocks for such Hardware to attach to that moves the Screen's drop bar to at least 3/4" forward of the TV's face. With most Flat Panels using a Low Profile Wall Mount, that will mean at least 3".
> 
> 
> But if any such installation deserves to be considered "iffy", it would be the above. A strong, sizable block, one that extends to cover at least one stud, and whose surface in contact with the wall is reinforced by using Wood Glue would be at minimum the recommended way to go. When a heavy object is extended out at right angles, both it's weight and gravity increases the pull (down force) at the lowest point of contact, and does so in a multiple of the actual weight of the given object. Anything that "hangs" only depends upon the basic "Holding Strength" of both the fastener and material combined.
> 
> 
> Not trying to be either snippy or anything, but the preceding comments about the usefulness and effectiveness....and reliability of both Drywall and Anchors are way...WAY off the mark. They seem to be coming from those with limited experience, as well as repeating comments coming from other such sources.
> 
> 
> Basically, I have done many installations on Drywall surfaces, involving TVs, Screens, Projectors, Speaker Cabinetry, etc....both Horizontal and Vertical, using "appropriate" Anchors, and never...not one time has either safety or dependability been jeopardized. To see any comment that effectively tries to exclude the use of "properly chosen & installed" Drywall Anchors...even going so far as to warn someone to not even attempt such, is tantamount to denying someone a viable installation method on what amounts to speculative reasoning. I say that because any experiences that involve proper selection and use amounts to exactly that...experience.
> 
> 
> It seems more like the comments above are based on limited experience with Anchors other than the Toggle type. I don't want to explore...or even consider that such experiences might also involve a less-than proper use thereof.
> 
> 
> All that said, I don't want to start a row on this Thread over Anchors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for digestion:
> Any vertically installed Anchor is only as strong as it's interior surface contact and the degree of compression. Toggle Anchors are stronger than "Expandable Sleeve" Anchors by a factor of almost 5x...even more as the width of the Toggle increases.
> The above also applies to Anchors installed on a Flat, Horizontal surface
> A Toggle Anchor's strength is directly proportionate to the width of of the Toggle, combined with the size of the contacting exterior base of the assembly being hung.
> A vertically hung Anchor of *ANY* given design / size will have less effective holding strength than a identically installed Anchor on a Horizontal surface.
> If a clean, non-pushed-through "Drilled" hole is effected through Drywall to install a Toggle Anchor, absolutely no surface tension strength is compromised.
> Obviously, if one can gain access to the area above where a Object is to be mounted onto a Ceiling, gluing down even a 4" x 4" x 1/2" piece of Plywood, then drilling through that and installing a Toggle Anchor will effect a even greater assurance of lateral holding strength
> 
> 
> Any modest sized Retractable Screen (106" & under) or any PJ weighing in under 25 lbs should present no issues if a proper installation of the fasteners is accommodated. Absolutely, the previous advice given stressing caution is well founded, however along with that, it should be stressed that exercising such caution by following directions exactly, and/or taking paints to improve any supporting structure's integrity when it's in anyway in doubt, can only be construed as being....a good thing.
> 
> This sort of thing cannot hurt, although it does bulk up what might otherwise be a more pristine installation. I have done similar, but my real motive was to "cover" the Hole I made to bring out wiring and the access to a Electrical Box mounted up inside a Floor or Ceiling. Even then, the use of Anchors to "Clamp" a Mount assembly to the Ceiling is the final touch.



Great info! Thanks!


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nphan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23588753
> 
> 
> Yes cleaning the dust blobs on the Espon 8350 is fairly easy. You need a small Philip crew driver to take the top cover off and a compressed air spray can. To take the top cover off, you need to remove all the crews on the side panels. These are the brown side covers on both sides of the projector. They are held by 3 crews on the bottom. Just remove these crews and side panels can be taking out by pulling on the bottom part outward. Then remove all the crews that on the bottom cover. These crews hold the top cover to the bottom cover. Once you remove these crews you can turn the projector over and pull the top cover straight up. It will come out easily. One notice, There will be 2 ribbons cables that you will need to remove to take the cover off. One is on the side panel that has all the controls for adjustment. Other is on the top cover. These can be taking out by releasing the small plastic clamp on the socket where the ribbon cable is attached to the board. If you have a good helper you may be able to leave these ribbon cables in and have them hold the covers for you while you do the spraying. To spray the dust blobs, you need to locate the 3 LED ribbons cables coming from the LEDs to the top circuit board. The LEDs are covered by the circuit board, but you can use the openings where the ribbon cables go through the board to spray the dust blobs. The spray can comes with the extension tube, use it to get access to the LEDs area. Make sure the spray can is always in vertical position. I sprayed short bursts of air to the LEDs area may be about 5 minutes. Most of the 5 minutes is to reposition the can and projector. Spray time is much less may be 1 minute. Hold/position the projector any way to allow you to make sure the spray can is vertical at all time. After this I was able to remove the dust blobs on my 8350.



Any way to remove the blobs without all of this disassembly? Could one just remove, say the filter and the lamp and just spray thru the filter area with a vac hose in the other? Anybody ever try this?


----------



## nphan

NO you need to get access to the LCDs. It is not hard to remove the top cover. These crews are easy to get to and once they are out you can lift the top cover up easily. Can be done slowly in less than 10 minutes. Sometimes, you may even need to remove the circuit board to have better aim at the LCDs. But I was able to remove the dust blob on my 8350 w/o remove the top circuit board.


----------



## Bohanna

FYI - ALWAYS blow air from the optical Block out! If you try to back blow air through the filter you will blow more dust onto the block. If you can,,, use Fuzzy sticks from walmart. They look like pipe cleaners. They will get into the crevices and spaces between the LCD Panels. ALWAYS make sure you know how the 3 LCD ribbon cables on the optical block disconnect from the main board. Some flip up some slide about 1/32 of an inch. They are VERY delicate so BE CAREFUL! The quickest way to check the condition of the optical block is to put up a white screen image and move the lens all the way in and all the way out of focus. Lots of specks indicate lots of dust.

Bohanna


----------



## Bohanna

 http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-White/19525340


----------



## pagan97

Thx for the info!


----------



## jayman619

Hey guys I just got my 8350 today from best buy. i can't wait to hook it up, but wont be able to for another 2 weeks. I got the 2 year warranty which was 160 and includes 1 bulb replacement. I'm kind of second guessing myself though and wondering if i should go back and upgrade to the 4 year warranty which cost 260 and still only includes 1 bulb replacement. Anybody got any thoughts on whether or not the longer warranty is worth it? also how much do bulbs cost for this unit?


----------



## tpoynton

i bought an 8350 in january or so at best buy with a 2 year warranty...in terms of a longer warranty, I decided against it as there will probably be better projectors in two years at the same price range then...i would speculate. regardless, I am sure I will want an excuse to upgrade


----------



## pagan97

Why bother with the 2 yr BB warranty? Projector comes with a 2 yr warranty and they are generous with the bulb replacemetn. Certainly can get at least 1 out of them. If you are paying, 4yr is the way to go. The 2 yr is a waste of money. If you are replacing with 4k in 2 yrs, no need for a warranty at all!


----------



## almostinsane

Or purchase with Amex as it doubles the manufacturer warranty.


----------



## jayman619




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pagan97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23598974
> 
> 
> Why bother with the 2 yr BB warranty? Projector comes with a 2 yr warranty and they are generous with the bulb replacemetn. Certainly can get at least 1 out of them. If you are paying, 4yr is the way to go. The 2 yr is a waste of money. If you are replacing with 4k in 2 yrs, no need for a warranty at all!



Oh I was unaware Epson had a 2 year warranty on it already, and I definitely didn't think that included a bulb replacement. Is that only if it fails prematurely? and then what defines premature? Obviously I would expect them to replace if it failed in the first few hundred hours but would they replace it after say 1000 hours? Just kinda wondering if there's a set criteria for the epson warranty bulb replacement or if it just depends on who you get to handle your claim. It sounds like I should have asked this question before I bought it.


----------



## tpoynton

I bought the warranty so I could get any problem in the next 2 Years, bulb or otherwise, solved quickly in person. I almost never buy warranties, but this was, to me, a worthy exception. I hope to never need it though!


----------



## petesamprs

Just picked up an 8350. I'm new to PJs. Is the default test pattern (crosshairs) the best way to quickly check convergence and sharpness? Anything else a new owner should know besides reading the manual cover to cover?


----------



## fedocable

I had to place my 8350 much too close to the wall, since I'm really pushing the projection distance. Thought about adding a rear fan (the air intake is there) to help the air flow. I gather it should be set to push the air -I mean: not pull it; am I right? Should it blow directly on the intake, or just make it pass to the other side? How fast should it go? Any tips would be very very welcome.


----------



## fedocable

Another possible option, and maybe better, would be to hang a medium table fan at some distance at a side if the pj, so to help with the air flow back there and at the same time keep the whole pj cooler. How about that?


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *talk2rider*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread#post_19271538
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Let the lamp death watch begin!



Wish I didn't have to agree with this completely. The lamp life in comparison to the rating is criminal.


----------



## NickTF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven Kelley*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23556027
> 
> 
> Same here, I went through (4) 8350's from over heating, dust bolbs, auto iris errors. I did however make it to 768hrs on one of the four projectors, but got a full refund back from Epson at the end.
> 
> I too went with the PT-AE8000U after the 8350. Not a single problem and up to 1000hrs so far with it.



Wow, I would be really interested as to how you got a full refund. As far as I'm concerned when a product fails to meet its specifications by this much of a margin refunds should be in the discussion. INterestingly enough, i'm considering the AE8000 myself. This 8350 has damaged my trust in these products however.


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petesamprs*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23605969
> 
> 
> Just picked up an 8350. I'm new to PJs. Is the default test pattern (crosshairs) the best way to quickly check convergence and sharpness? Anything else a new owner should know besides reading the manual cover to cover?



Focusing is best accomplished using text on the screen. The pattern works well for getting your image size and centering correct, but the crosshair didnt really work for me. The lamp timer / clock does not start running til after 10 hrs. I would give it a good workout, check convergence using text, and use it alot during the first 30 days. Any problems and epson will replace with new in first 30, after that you get a refurb. Keep the air filter clean and expect dust blobs that will come and go. Auto iris off, unless watching in the dark, then turn auto iris off before power down. The only time I did not do this I got the auto iris error, so I make it part of my routine. After 100 hrs, calibrate and cross fingers.


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pagan97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23626121
> 
> 
> Focusing is best accomplished using text on the screen.



Why I made this. http://i7.minus.com/irJ7TFmU5M7OL.png


----------



## curtlots

From the Matrix?


----------



## pagan97

Wow! How is that working for ya?


----------



## dude2006

I'm having a problem projecting a proper image with the 8350. Am using a Peerless *wall* mount. The problem I'm having is on the left side, starting about halfway down all the way to the bottom, the image projects at a diagonal, inward angle. I've attached a picture. What's weird is both the top and bottom appear to be perfectly straight, and also the right side is straight as far as I can tell, it's just that bottom left side that has the issue. The Peerless mount I'm using has independent yaw, roll, and pitch control, but I've fiddled with these and nothing had an effect. The one thing I haven't yet tried (because it's a pain) is adjusting the "feet" on the mount that attaches to the projector itself, but before I try it was hoping to get any suggestions from fellow 8350 owners. Thanks.

Image.bmp 653k .bmp file


----------



## MississippiMan

The bottom left front corner of the PJ is just ever so slightly pitched inward, causing the bottom left front corner of the lens to be closest to the screen.


Even with a PJ with Lens Shift, it is important to be certain the Face of the Lens is both level, and plumb (perpendicular) to the wall.


----------



## dude2006




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23644280
> 
> 
> The bottom left front corner of the PJ is just ever so slightly pitched inward, causing the bottom left front corner of the lens to be closest to the screen.
> 
> 
> Even with a PJ with Lens Shift, it is important to be certain the Face of the Lens is both level, and plumb (perpendicular) to the wall.



Thanks so much for the quick reply! That makes sense, but I should have added that although I'm using a wall mount, the projector is mounted upside down, as it would be with a ceiling mount. With that in mind, does it change your analysis as to which corner is causing the problem?


----------



## mehal88

Are you using the horizontal lens shift at all? Maybe you are starting to slightly hit the limit for left/right shift. Note that the range is not a rectangle, its actually an octagon. You can only shift 9% of your width horizontally if you have shifted the max (96% of height) vertically. I think I saw a picture of the lens shift limitations on the last page (Post 8275).


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dude2006*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23644307
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the quick reply! That makes sense, but I should have added that although I'm using a wall mount, the projector is mounted upside down, as it would be with a ceiling mount. With that in mind, does it change your analysis as to which corner is causing the problem?



No....


Upright or inverted, the Lens face still must conform to being positioned correctly, as relates to the positioning of the PJ itself to the screen wall.


If the left is out of whack when inverted, the same principles of correction apply.


----------



## dude2006




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mehal88*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23645860
> 
> 
> Are you using the horizontal lens shift at all? Maybe you are starting to slightly hit the limit for left/right shift. Note that the range is not a rectangle, its actually an octagon. You can only shift 9% of your width horizontally if you have shifted the max (96% of height) vertically. I think I saw a picture of the lens shift limitations on the last page (Post 8275).



I am using horizontal shift but not much at all, as the projector was already almost centered with the screen. After MississippiMan's helpful comments I fiddled with it for a long time last night and while I still have the issue somewhat, it is less noticeable now. Also, I read on another thread that it is hard if not impossible to get a 100% perfectly rectangular image with cheaper lenses like this, and I don't know if that's right or not but I'm pretty happy with how it looks now anyway.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dude2006*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8280#post_23648574
> 
> 
> I am using horizontal shift but not much at all, as the projector was already almost centered with the screen. After MississippiMan's helpful comments I fiddled with it for a long time last night and while I still have the issue somewhat, it is less noticeable now. Also, I read on another thread that it is hard if not impossible to get a 100% perfectly rectangular image with cheaper lenses like this, and I don't know if that's right or not but I'm pretty happy with how it looks now anyway.



That's pretty much me also. I have mine dangerously close to square, then I just increase the zoom a tad and let the 'imperfection' spill over onto the black velvet frame of my screen making it essentially disappear.


----------



## dude2006

Are Dust Blobs Eventually Inevitable in These Units?


A bit of background: I'm on my third unit. The first's lens shift drifted too much by itself, and the second one projected an imperfect rectangular image (as discussed a few posts above, initially I thought it was my alignment, but a friend's 2nd opinion who saw it in person changed my mind).


I'm loving this third unit (which is refurbished, btw) in all respects (great convergence, proper image, colors "pop", etc.) except for one thing: on a purely black background, I can see two fairly noticeable blue circles - I believe they are dust blobs, and not stuck pixels, both because I've seen similar posts on this and other threads, and because of the size of the circles (about 5 inches in diameter). The circles aren't nearly as noticeable during regular viewing, although I do see them if I look hard.


What I'm torn about is this - I know that if I wanted to, I could have Epson send me a 4th unit, but my fear is that, even assuming I get lucky and my 4th replacement is as good on everything else as this unit is, I would just end up getting dust blobs in the new unit sometime down the road anyway. The impression I get from numerous posts I've seen is that dust blobs eventually make their way into these units one way or another, which is why I'm reluctant to roll the dice with yet another replacement. At the same time, however, I'm not thrilled with these circles (of course).


Opinions?


----------



## carp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dude2006*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23659765
> 
> 
> Are Dust Blobs Eventually Inevitable in These Units?
> 
> 
> A bit of background: I'm on my third unit. The first's lens shift drifted too much by itself, and the second one projected an imperfect rectangular image (as discussed a few posts above, initially I thought it was my alignment, but a friend's 2nd opinion who saw it in person changed my mind).
> 
> 
> I'm loving this third unit (which is refurbished, btw) in all respects (great convergence, proper image, colors "pop", etc.) except for one thing: on a purely black background, I can see two fairly noticeable blue circles - I believe they are dust blobs, and not stuck pixels, both because I've seen similar posts on this and other threads, and because of the size of the circles (about 5 inches in diameter). The circles aren't nearly as noticeable during regular viewing, although I do see them if I look hard.
> 
> 
> What I'm torn about is this - I know that if I wanted to, I could have Epson send me a 4th unit, but my fear is that, even assuming I get lucky and my 4th replacement is as good on everything else as this unit is, I would just end up getting dust blobs in the new unit sometime down the road anyway. The impression I get from numerous posts I've seen is that dust blobs eventually make their way into these units one way or another, which is why I'm reluctant to roll the dice with yet another replacement. At the same time, however, I'm not thrilled with these circles (of course).
> 
> 
> Opinions?



Keep the one you have!! I too am on my 3rd (6 have been in my room though, 3 of them were had imediate problems when getting replacements). I have dust blobs too, and someday will clean them but they aren't bad enough that I see them with actual content yet.


Here is the post about how to clean the dust blobs, that's what I plan to do if it gets bad enough.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7890#post_23065245


----------



## cassou

Hi guys,


I know the flickering issue has been tackled before but I would still like the opinion of people who know more about this than me.


My original lamp died and I ordered a cheap lamp and casing from Ebay. I figured I had not much to lose to try it since it was only around 90$. I was fine at first but after a week or so it started flickering. I tried to put it on normal mode as it was advised to do in these forums but it was even more noticeable than on Eco mode. I asked for an exchange and the new bulb is doing the same thing. I can't keep sending them back as I have to pay shipping and its pretty expensive.


Is there any other way to get rid of this flickering? Will I have better luck with an official Epson bulb? Or is there any other seller with more reliable bulbs?


any help would be much appreciated.


thank you


----------



## dboz

If I can get an 8350 with about 10 hours on the bulb for around $700 would you go for it or should I just move to something else like the BEN Q W1070? I run an old EPSON POWERLITE 10+ and it is just too outdated. Not wanting to spend a lot.


I have a light controlled HT and run a 92" screen. The room has 17' to the back wall. I also watch sports and we do run some low level lights for those times.


Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## MississippiMan

8350 all the way.


----------



## horseflesh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dboz*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23668930
> 
> 
> If I can get an 8350 with about 10 hours on the bulb for around $700 would you go for it ...



Go for it if you have recourse in case it turns out to be a lemon. Personally, I would not buy a projector without a return policy... it's just more risk than I can stomach.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

I just bought a fixed frame screen but when I project on it the sides near the bottom pull in, what is causing that?


----------



## dboz

KEYSTONE adjustment needed??


----------



## kriktsemaj99

No, you don't want to use the keystone adjustment as it degrades the image. If you need to make the image wider at the bottom, tilt the projector down a bit and then re-centre the image with the lens shift controls. Play around with it because it's not so intuitive at first, but by tilting the PJ in different axes and using the lens shift you can always square up the image without using keystone.


----------



## 01011010

Received my 8350 in the mail today and so far I'm enjoying the quality and overall sharpness of the image. My only concern is a noticeable hue on the lines or text.

 


The alignment looks great both on the vertical and horizontal lines, but this hue is driving me nuts. It looks almost as if the colors are bleeding through.Does anyone have any thoughts or advice?


The projector itself is mounted on my 12 foot ceiling. I'm using about 60% of the vertical lens shift and about 20% of the horizontal. If you need any more info let me know.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## Red hot smasher

Hi! I just bought an Epson TW-3200 (literally a few hours ago), which I believe is the European (non-American?) version of the 8350. I can clearly see that the convergence is far from perfect. I think my old LCD PJ (An Hitachi Illumina PJ-TX100) had better convergence. However I'm quite new to this projector thing, this is my second projector and the first one I've bought with my own money (old one I got used as a gift from my uncle). This is what I'm seeing:

 
 


Is this normal? Should I take it back and ask for a replacement? Should I just live with it?


(Sorry about the image quality, I used my phone (SGS2) as I don't have my DSLR and memory cards at the moment)


Oh, and I tried centering the lens shift (using sensible amounts of it normally) and that barely made a difference.


----------



## southpaw85

It looks like it is only 1 pixel off. This is an acceptable level of convergence. Mine is the same way. Still looks very sharp from normal seating distances.


----------



## anthrojohn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *01011010*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23679796
> 
> 
> Received my 8350 in the mail today and so far I'm enjoying the quality and overall sharpness of the image. My only concern is a noticeable hue on the lines or text.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The alignment looks great both on the vertical and horizontal lines, but this hue is driving me nuts. It looks almost as if the colors are bleeding through.Does anyone have any thoughts or advice?
> 
> 
> The projector itself is mounted on my 12 foot ceiling. I'm using about 60% of the vertical lens shift and about 20% of the horizontal. If you need any more info let me know.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!



I'm not an expert by any means, but that looks like a chromatic aberration due to the lens, perhaps made worse by the use of lens shift. If you display that single line of pixels (as in your posted pic) and move the image across the screen by recentering the lens shift, do you notice the "smearing" of the colors change / lessen to some degree? Or if you max out lens shift in one direction does it appear even more extreme? My first 8350 had purple fringing around white text especially, and it was very likely due to a lens aberration -- my replacement did not exhibit the same defect. Maybe wait for someone else to weigh in on this before you give up on this unit, though. I might be wrong in my assessment. But please report back on what happens when you adjust the lens shift.


Good luck!


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red hot smasher*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8300_100#post_23681399
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Should I take it back and ask for a replacement? Should I just live with it?



About as perfect as you can get a Sub $3000 Lens shift 3lcd projector. Mine is the same way.

http://i5.minus.com/iK1qzPe591h0M.JPG 

http://i5.minus.com/idDPQpltlgHkS.JPG 


And it doesn't matter

http://i1.minus.com/i7ba7Ko6sC2EC.jpg 

http://i5.minus.com/ibCITbrXbDFMr.jpg


----------



## Lowkae

Well it's happened. My three week old projector already has a nice green dust spot on the picture. I suppose I should get the most out of my two year warranty while I can. My question is, can I return the replacement instead of the original if I find something wrong with it and get another?


----------



## Red hot smasher

@southpaw85, F12Bwth: Fair enough, does indeed look great from a sensible viewing distance, convergence issue barely noticable really, and only if you've got a white/bright edge against a dark background and you're looking for it. My OCD will learn to live with it, I'm sure.


I'm currently thinking about making a simple projection screen, anybody know if http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carl-s-ProGray-4-3-63x84-Projector-Screen-Material-High-Contrast-Gray-/231021086322?pt=US_Projection_Screens_Material&hash=item35c9ee0672 is any good? I know it's 4:3 but it's nearly the right width (84" ≃ 213 cm, my wall is 208 cm IIRC meaning I would have to trim off about 2 inches) and I don't mind it taking up some unnecessary vertical space.


One more question, is there a way to control the iris on the TW-3200 manually? On my old projector I could go into a menu and dial the iris down manually. This thing is just so damn bright even on eco mode the blacks kinda wash out a bit during bright scenes, and I think being able to close the iris down a couple notches would help. On my old projector there was a menu option for setting the iris manually, but the TW-3200 doesn't seem to have one. (As a purist I don't use auto iris at all)


----------



## Tesla1856


Not sure if you can use Amazon, but check out Elite Screens (fixed) ... comes with the frame and everything.


----------



## 01011010

Thank you anthrojohn, For a quick test I adjusted the lens shift to place the lens completely in the center. The chromatic aberration was nearly impossible to see. Really annoying, I could get an extension for my ceiling mount but I'd rather not due to the aesthetic appeal of the projector closer to the ceiling and out of the way. The other alternative is to move the screen closer to the ceiling. However, my screen is homemade from sheetrock so at this point it is impossible to remove. So I suppose I'll deal with the chromatic aberration.


It is nearly unnoticeable at viewing distance other than small text looking a bit fuzzy. It is still a substantially better image then the Optoma HD66 produced.


----------



## anthrojohn

Wow, "01011010"! My hunch was actually right? I guess that's what happens when you have gone through 4 8350s to find the best one -- you learn to spot the issues.










BUT, there may be a solution, a crazy as it may seem. Firstly, not all of the 8350s I tested exhibited the same degree of chromatic distortion at the further reaches of the lens. But I understand if you don't want to go through the hassle and crapshoot that an exchange would entail. So, secondly, it is possible that your lens is less distorted on the opposite side from where you have the image shifted. You could easily test this by shifting your test image from the center position (where you say that the image is tolerable), but shift in the approximately opposite direction than would be needed to hit your screen perfectly. If the image does not seem as distorted during this test, then you do have the option of mounting the 8350 upside down or right side up, though this change would probably require a different ceiling mounting system. You can flip the image vertically to accommodate this fliparoo within the system menu, which you have probably already done once for your ceiling mounting.


This is something of a spontaneous though, so if it sounds somewhat daft, it just might be! But, just wanted to throw out a suggestion to help you along, if possible.


Good luck!


----------



## 01011010

anthrojohn, yeah, that was my next test. I've already begun looking at building a shelf for the ceiling but once again I'm unsure about the aesthetic appeal of such things. However, I'm more leaning towards just dealing with the extension and getting over my issues with the projector dangling 2 feet from the ceiling in my room. I say this because I've seen the lens drift down and to the right as the projector is used and having the lens more centered would not only solve the chromatic aberration but also solve the lens from drifting as much.


Ultimately, I might leave this along for now. I have a room upstairs substantially more suited for a home theater that I may start messing with.


----------



## 01011010

Heh, I'm going to drive myself nuts with trying to get this projector perfectly aligned on my screen.


----------



## jumeitaps

I get to sit in my mancave and play Madden its gonna be a terrible day! thank you


----------



## Project H

do you guys put any type of dust covers on the actual projector or lens cap when it is not in use to prevent dust from getting in?


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8300_100#post_23692086
> 
> 
> do you guys put any type of dust covers on the actual projector or lens cap when it is not in use to prevent dust from getting in?



I just get a microfiber towel and wipe off the lens every month or so. When it is running and hot and blowing it's fans seems to be when most of the dust collecting occurs.


----------



## n01un0

Well, it's been just over 2000 hours but the picture seemed dim yesterday so I turned up everything to look better then shut it down. I turned it on today and nothing, just the thrill of the red blinking light.


This is my first bulb replacement since buying the unit the day it came out on 10/2010 so I am reading all the posts on bulb replacement. I see on amazon there are plenty of $50-75 choices and I have found sites that say they use the Osram bulb or the Phillips bulb and those are around $120-190 and of course you have the actual epsons at $230-350.


My question is, on the cheap units with warranties up to one year on one of them, are they any good and can I get some feed back from ACTUAL users, not just opinions. The reviews on all the low price units is not good but at the same time, there are only a handful and I know many, many, many more have been bought. I've always found, happy people tend to post less than when someone is pissed off so I take reviews with a grain of salt, lol.


I am going to call epson tomorrow but I doubt they will do anything for me since the unit is almost a year out of warranty. That being the case, what bulb should I buy and from where?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23692086
> 
> 
> do you guys put any type of dust covers on the actual projector or lens cap when it is not in use to prevent dust from getting in?



any other feedback?


thanks


----------



## Lowkae

So, I was able to get rid of my green dust blob by simply resetting the unit and then loading my settings again. (!) No replacement needed. Anybody else experience this?


----------



## Mark Booth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8250#post_23577084
> 
> 
> I'm sure if that lamp goes "pffft" too quickly you'll be back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went shopping for such Discounted Lamps, one criteria was the ability to get a extended warranty out to 180 days. Even if the price went out to $90.00 doing so, it was in my reasoning a prudent choice to make.
> 
> 
> In as much as most of the PJs installed by me belong to power users (TV/Gaming) the lamps do get used considerably more than any dedicated Theater application. So affordable replacement is going to be very desirable.
> 
> 
> Strangley enough, the link provided above garnered me a chance to find this gem:
> http://www.amazon.com/Projector-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Projectors-Replacement/dp/B00AOU4QVA/ref=pd_sim_e_7
> 
> ....coming from the same source, but one that comes with a full year replacement.....all for only about $20.00 more.
> 
> 
> Look carefully and choose wisely, my friends.



My Epson 8350 is approaching 1 year of age (purchased in October of 2012). It is only used for movie nights in the Booth Bijou Garage Theater (see link in my signature). We average 2 movie nights per month and the projector runs for about 7 hours per movie night (2 movies plus pre-movie entertainment before each movie). I also used it for some Halloween projection last October. I haven't checked the actual lamp hours yet, but I'd estimate it's only around 160. At that pace, it's likely it will go beyond 2 years before I see a lamp issue.


Still, it would be a royal pain in the butt if the lamp failed on a movie night when we have 22 guests in the Booth Bijou! Even though I have strong doubts I'll need it anytime soon, I've decided to purchase a backup lamp. But I really don't feel like I need to have $250 sitting on a shelf in the form of a genuine Epson lamp. This lamp will be strictly for emergency use.


So, with that in mind, I've ordered the lamp that you linked. At the rate we're going, it could be years before I need it. But it's worth $65 (delivered) to have peace of mind that there's a backup lamp in the house.


Thanks for the heads up!


Mark


----------



## 01011010

Mark Booth,


Firstly awesome setup in the garage. I too am looking to setup some type of Halloween theater for the neighborhood. I'd love to get your advice on this.


I planned on actually getting a large sheet of fabric and pinning in the open area of the (opened) garage door. Then setting up the projector and speakers inside the garage so they're hidden and away. Chairs would be setup in the driveway and we'll have candy and popcorn for the guests.


A family down the street actually coverts their home into a Haunted House and has it running from the 27th - Nov 1st. Admission for their event is non-perishable goods that are donated to the food bank in our city. I had planned on doing something similar.


I would love to get anyones advice on this. It seems like an ambitious project but I think it would pay off enormously for the kids.


----------



## lespurgeon

I have a cloth one since projector is shelf mounted. I throw it over when not being used for a few days. I don't think about it much.


----------



## euclid0911

Hello. I just bought my first 8350 and have had it for about two weeks. No problems of any kind to report, yet. But all of the reports I've read on here regarding the lamp not lasting very long and the "drooping" issue are making me a little worried since I'm planning on using my 8350 to display digital art in galleries ... which will require the projector to remain on for 6-8 hours per day, continuously. Is the drooping problem a common one that I should anticipate coming across soon or are all of these just isolated issues with just a few bum units?


If these are common issues, I may have to start looking at other projectors as I need to get a second one in the coming days.


Thank you for any input and advice on comparable projectors to the 8350. FWIW, I'm really liking the picture quality of the 8350 especially considering that I got a new one for $975!


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23695033
> 
> 
> any other feedback?
> 
> 
> thanks


I keep the lens cap on to protect it. Occasionally I wipe the lens with an eyeglass cleaning cloth. I clean the filter once a month, but have NEVER had anything in it. Totally useless! Guess thats why I keep getting dust blobs...


----------



## jlambvo

I just picked up a refurbished 8350. After years of direct LCD viewing I have to say it's been jaw dropping even just projecting onto a matte white wall... I had no idea how good these had gotten.


One issue is that in an attempt to view 24p content natively from my HTPC, I am running at 48hz output from the video card (9600 gso). It isn't officially listed in the manual as a valid input but seems to work great, with the exception of noticeable screen tearing in media player classic HC, and ArcSoft total media.


Has anyone tried running at 48 hz with or without success?


----------



## Fishtank

This isn't meant to offend anyone, to each their own.... but people act like the unit is junk when dust blobs are a known issue among most LCD projectors. I dunno, loved my 8350, few grey blobs that appear .001% of the time isn't worth the headache.


You KNOW it's gonna happen again, it's not a "fault" of YOUR 8350, it's a fact of life with cheap lcd projectors as far as I know... it's a big reason people like sealed light chambers in DLP's... having said that both my old dlp's got dust blobs.


If your convergence is tight and the picture is uniform without tint (mine's been amazing in that regard) just enjoy the cheapo projector for what it is. You didn't even come close to spending any real money on "perfection" either way, and you're rolling the dice on a refurb cycle where you might actually get a unit that had serious problems before. Just to get a few months of dust blob free operation before having to roll the dice again.... I wouldn't do it.


They exist - they are rarely a big deal IMO


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pagan97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23705188
> 
> 
> I keep the lens cap on to protect it. Occasionally I wipe the lens with an eyeglass cleaning cloth. I clean the filter once a month, but have NEVER had anything in it. Totally useless! Guess thats why I keep getting dust blobs...



anyone else use the plastic lens cover on their 8350 when not in use?


----------



## eyekode




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23708212
> 
> 
> anyone else use the plastic lens cover on their 8350 when not in use?



I do not. It is ceiling mounted and does not seem to collect dust.


----------



## MississippiMan

Dust Blobs? I ain't never got no Dust Blobs in nary a one of the 20+ 8350s I've dealt with.


Also no Color uniformity issues....but,


I have had a few issues with loosening Lens Shift....some blown out HDMI ports (electric storms








) and some degree of dfficulty programing OFF functions on Smart Remotes. But overall Lamp Life has been exemplary...with at least 4-5 reaching up into the 4000-to 5000 hour range before replacement. 90% of the end users use their 8350s for TV viewing as well as movies....even if originally the PJ went into a dedicated Theater setting, and it does seem that the more use the PJ gets, the less issues they have.


My Bottom Land dwellin' heart aches for those who have had issues....some repeatedly when suffering through the exchange mill.


However, in the end, even 80-90 reports on this thread, which resides on the Worlds most popular AV Forum, represents only a tiny fraction of the units delivered into the hands of customers...but that fraction is also the most outspoken...some for good reason...some to a fault, sour grapes-wise.


But the exchange of info is never detrimental if taken in full context.


----------



## Project H

Hey all,


I think I have my 8350 set up pretty well as far as alignment with my screen with the lens shift and focus. Do you all recommend any calibration CDs to ensure optimal performance or is that overkill?


Thanks!


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23716761
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> I think I have my 8350 set up pretty well as far as alignment with my screen with the lens shift and focus. Do you all recommend any calibration CDs to ensure optimal performance or is that overkill?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I found that people use the Disney disc - as it may be suitable for more beginners. Also there are many folks that get a professional to calibrate their PJ. Ideally, having 2 presets - one for cinema and one for ambient light. Is it possible to save your modified settings as a preset to choose from?


How much of an improvement should we notice from an non-calibrated unit?


thanks!


----------



## runcliffyrun

I have just hit 2000 hours on mine, and still going strong. I use it every day, 3-5 hours. I do have a couple of dust blobs, but I can only notice them during the start-up screen. So that doesn't bother me at all.


I love this thing.


----------



## scottvamp

Have had my 8350 for almost a year now, not a single issue. Bought it new from Projecter People. My bulb hours are actually counting down instead of up. ??

I leave the cap on when not in use but it is not ceiling mounted so its easy to do. I put one of my extra 4" fans pulling out the exhaust when in use. I will have to see how many lamp hours I get.

The Epson replaced a Sanyo PLV4 and it was nice boost in color and pic quality. Did the basic settings just eyeballing. Later I checked it with a THX blu disc. And I did not have to change a single setting.

Using a 92" screen and have been really enjoying this projector for the price


----------



## jlambvo

Okay, so I ended up returning my new test unit in favor of a refurbished unit to save a few hundred bucks. Figured like with some equipment, might have actually had outstanding issues addressed and could be better than new, and it comes with the standard warranty. Have a couple issues though I'm curious about:


1) Both lens shift dials are really mushy and interact heavily with each other on this one. If I adjust horizontal shift, each movement (forward and backward) causes the vertical shift to sink. Extremely frustrating. Do I have to worry about these dying entirely?


2) Convergence seems worse that my other unit, about 1px on two colors. On the new one all three colors seemed centered but spilled over a little, on this one green is about 1px right, and red is about 1px down.


3) The right side of the image gets noticeably more blurry with text and patterns. It's very squared on and the left end is razor sharp. Dirty lens, or defective in some way?


----------



## thebigeast44

Sent my unit in for return for repair since I liked everything about my projector except the dust blobs present. Waited until the bulb failed and sent it in. Took about 8 days total back and forth. They replaced the optical block, bulb and filter. Unfortunately, now I have a new problem. There is a blue golf ball sized discoloration on the middle of the screen at the far left. Anyone have any idea what that is? Thanks in advance for any and all replies. Epson has good customer service. But I'd prefer bad customer service and a reliable projector compared to good customer service and an unreliable projector.


----------



## yasmin6969




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23708212
> 
> 
> anyone else use the plastic lens cover on their 8350 when not in use?



I do. Just to prevent anybody touching the lens o getting dirty/dusty.


----------



## yasmin6969

Just to comment my experience with the epson TW3200 (european 8350).

I bought it new in October 2012 from Amazon and I use it an average of 4-5 nights for week.

Dust blobs were the only problem I had. Everytime one appears I follow the instructions posted here to clean it. The last blob was hardest, it took 3 tries to finally dissapear.


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23736351
> 
> 
> Sent my unit in for return for repair since I liked everything about my projector except the dust blobs present. Waited until the bulb failed and sent it in. Took about 8 days total back and forth. They replaced the optical block, bulb and filter. Unfortunately, now I have a new problem. There is a blue golf ball sized discoloration on the middle of the screen at the far left. Anyone have any idea what that is? Thanks in advance for any and all replies. Epson has good customer service. But I'd prefer bad customer service and a reliable projector compared to good customer service and an unreliable projector.



An update to my post above. After searching a bit, some people have mentioned that the blub blob I have may be a dust blob as well. I had thought they were always green. When I defocused the image with the green dust blobs I had in the past, the points of dust sharpened to a clear point. When I did the same with the blue blob, no points of dust were evident. When I defocused clockwise, I could still see the blue blob. When I defocused counterclockwise with more focus travel, the blue blob went away. Any thoughts? Thanks!


----------



## lespurgeon

Dreaded flashing red lamps, calling Epson in the morning...


----------



## lespurgeon

runcliffyrun hit post 8350 on the 8350 masterthread with his 2000 hourpost...


Replacement 8350 on its way. Hope it has convergence as good as my original one - I don't want to go through several returns. I'm thinking failed iris.


----------



## stvjohnsn

Hi folks,


I bought a refurb 8350 directly from Epson about 6 months ago. I have it in a dedicated theater with black walls and ceiling, driven by a DTV genie and a BD player. Really love the projector but i've noticed two issues with it:


1. There is a blue tint on the right side of the screen, towards the bottom. This is really only noticeable on a white image and it covers approximately 20% of the screen.


2. I notice a slight flicker in brightness that seems to come and go. It's subtle and I think I'm the only one that notices it, but it is annoying. Once it gets going it can flicker 2 or 3 times in a 10 second timeframe. I have auto-iris off, and run in theater mode. Happens with both video sources.


Any advice before I call Epson?


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stvjohnsn*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23743788
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> I bought a refurb 8350 directly from Epson about 6 months ago. I have it in a dedicated theater with black walls and ceiling, driven by a DTV genie and a BD player. Really love the projector but i've noticed two issues with it:
> 
> 
> 1. There is a blue tint on the right side of the screen, towards the bottom. This is really only noticeable on a white image and it covers approximately 20% of the screen.
> 
> 
> 2. I notice a slight flicker in brightness that seems to come and go. It's subtle and I think I'm the only one that notices it, but it is annoying. Once it gets going it can flicker 2 or 3 times in a 10 second timeframe. I have auto-iris off, and run in theater mode. Happens with both video sources.
> 
> 
> Any advice before I call Epson?



1. I don't believe you can fix a localized tint like that and it would require a replacement....


2. I've never been able to run my 8350 in eco mode, flickers as you describe across all 4 bulbs I've owned and the 10,000 hrs I've ran it. Normal mode is always fine. It's common however i don't think everyone has this problem, so maybe an exchange will solve both for you.


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlambvo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23728042
> 
> 
> Okay, so I ended up returning my new test unit in favor of a refurbished unit to save a few hundred bucks. Figured like with some equipment, might have actually had outstanding issues addressed and could be better than new, and it comes with the standard warranty. Have a couple issues though I'm curious about:
> 
> 
> 1) Both lens shift dials are really mushy and interact heavily with each other on this one. If I adjust horizontal shift, each movement (forward and backward) causes the vertical shift to sink. Extremely frustrating. Do I have to worry about these dying entirely?
> 
> 
> 2) Convergence seems worse that my other unit, about 1px on two colors. On the new one all three colors seemed centered but spilled over a little, on this one green is about 1px right, and red is about 1px down.
> 
> 
> 3) The right side of the image gets noticeably more blurry with text and patterns. It's very squared on and the left end is razor sharp. Dirty lens, or defective in some way?




1) If it holds once you manage to set it, maybe it's not the end of the world. If it sinks just while in use with no adjustment that would likely be enough for me to replace it. I'm not sure what the general consensus is about these manual lens's shifting over time however mine does not at all.


2) 1 pixel is generally regarded as very good convergence, my red is out 1 and I can't tell in anyway apart from test patterns and a 1' viewing distance.


3) Unit may not be quite square and excessive lens shift can introduce this. Or it's possibly a lens imperfection, this problem was more pronounced for me with it shelf mounted. About 6 months ago I got to re-org my room and either re-positioning the unit, or using a different part of the lens from projecting upside down really cleaned it up for me. I could only tell on my HTPC in regards to text etc either way.


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23738276
> 
> 
> An update to my post above. After searching a bit, some people have mentioned that the blub blob I have may be a dust blob as well. I had thought they were always green. When I defocused the image with the green dust blobs I had in the past, the points of dust sharpened to a clear point. When I did the same with the blue blob, no points of dust were evident. When I defocused clockwise, I could still see the blue blob. When I defocused counterclockwise with more focus travel, the blue blob went away. Any thoughts? Thanks!



Well, I just turned on my projector for the first time in several days. And what do I get, the dreaded auto iris problem. Let's face it folks, this projector is without doubt a very flawed one. I went 4 years with my Panny AX200 and not one dust blob. In the same room, I have had 3 different 8350's get dust blobs. And now another common problem hits me. Great customer service does not make up for an unreliable projector.


Back it will go and it's unlikely I will ever buy an Epson again


----------



## KlingonScum

*sigh*


Ok, I've got the auto-iris issue. But in my particular case, my 2 year warranty ran out in May of this year. Now, I had gotten the issue in the past about once in a blue moon - maybe once every 4-6 months, just turn it off, wait a bit, and turn it back on again and clear sailing.


Last night though, that didn't work - same thing when I restarted it about 3-4 times. Then I went and unplugged it completely for 5 minutes. Nope. Uh oh. I finally wound up turning it back on and banging the side of it (gently but firmly - what a fun line to try to walk) when it was starting up and got it to work. No telling what will happen this weekend when I try to watch football. Yes, I probably should have sent it back when I first got it and it was under warranty, but I tend to be an "eh, I can live with it" guy and now it's biting me.


So, I figure I need to send it in for repairs, and I was wondering - has anybody had to get this fixed AFTER their warranty period has expired, and if so, how much can I expect to pay?


And I just put a new lamp into it too, sheesh - only 50 hours on the new bulb.


As for fixing it myself, that's probably a non-starter - just swapping out the bulb was a major endeavor for me...


----------



## kevinwoodward

if it's up and running can't you just turn auto iris off?


----------



## lespurgeon

Turning auto iris off doesn't solve. I think it does an iris test every power-up.


I was having similar issues - auto-iris warning every 10th or so power-up. Then last weekend, I went from cinema to living room mode and the entire projector locked-up and shut town with the 2 flashing red lights. Fortunately in warranty, have a refurb unit here now. Picture looks as good as mine was - it has very mushy lens shift - about to put painters tape on the knobs so that they don't shift. I'm sold on Epson's 2 yr warranty.


Klingon - any chance you used a credit card with extra protection (Am Ex or Visa Sig.) they will add a year of warranty - but need to contact the credit card.


----------



## gizmo8500


Hi, I just purchased 2 used 8350's from ebay. I bought two new bulbs for them as one was burned out and the other showed near end of life (over 4k hours). After scouring the thread (it's a big one so I might have missed some things) there are some questions I still have unanswered.

 

1) What is actually going on inside the projector when you change between dynamic/living room to any other color mode? I hear a mechanical noise inside the projector and then it becomes visibly brighter/dimmer. If all it is doing is allowing more light from the bulb to get to the screen, then for bulb longevity would it not be best to run in dynamic or living room, run in eco and lower the brightness, and then color calibrate that mode?

 

2) Both projectors have a very slight blue and red hue bias at different areas of the screen. For example, one PJ has a blueish hue all the way down the right side of the screen, with most of the center of the screen dominated by a red hue. I suspect this is different than the "dust blob'' people speak of. Is there anything that can be done about this or is this a defect with the LCD?

 

3) If I de-focus the lens enough eventually a bunch of dirty red spots come into focus on the screen (and the projected image is completely out of focus). When the screen is in focus these are not at all noticiable. Should I just ignore them? When I look at the lens I can see some dust specs on the back side inside the projector. I think I'll just not worry about it.

 

Overall a great looking image. Loving my first home projector so far. Thanks for any help you all can offer.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23717248
> 
> 
> I found that people use the Disney disc - as it may be suitable for more beginners. Also there are many folks that get a professional to calibrate their PJ. Ideally, having 2 presets - one for cinema and one for ambient light. Is it possible to save your modified settings as a preset to choose from?
> 
> 
> How much of an improvement should we notice from an non-calibrated unit?
> 
> 
> thanks!



any input?


----------



## KlingonScum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lespurgeon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23757110
> 
> 
> Turning auto iris off doesn't solve. I think it does an iris test every power-up.
> 
> 
> I was having similar issues - auto-iris warning every 10th or so power-up. Then last weekend, I went from cinema to living room mode and the entire projector locked-up and shut town with the 2 flashing red lights. Fortunately in warranty, have a refurb unit here now. Picture looks as good as mine was - it has very mushy lens shift - about to put painters tape on the knobs so that they don't shift. I'm sold on Epson's 2 yr warranty.
> 
> 
> Klingon - any chance you used a credit card with extra protection (Am Ex or Visa Sig.) they will add a year of warranty - but need to contact the credit card.



No such luck on the credit card protection (sigh). As luck would have it, I haven't gotten the issue since then.


One other odd thing, which is likely unrelated. I got an aftermarket bulb from Amazon - the bulb works fine, but there's a very very VERY faint high pitched "beeping" coming from the projector when it's on. If you're listening to audio while watching a show, you can't hear it, but if you've got everything paused you can juuuuust make the noise out. Each beep seems to last a full second, and then there's a couple seconds or so before the next beep. I don't see anything in the manual about any sort of warning or anything that would cause beeping. The old (original) bulb doesn't do this. It doesn't bother me, I'm just curious if anybody else has run into this...


And also still wondering if anybody's gotten the auto-iris issue fixed through Epson AFTER the warranty had expired and how much I can expect to pay...


----------



## DanP.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cassou*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8310#post_23668460
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I know the flickering issue has been tackled before but I would still like the opinion of people who know more about this than me.
> 
> 
> My original lamp died and I ordered a cheap lamp and casing from Ebay. I figured I had not much to lose to try it since it was only around 90$. I was fine at first but after a week or so it started flickering. I tried to put it on normal mode as it was advised to do in these forums but it was even more noticeable than on Eco mode. I asked for an exchange and the new bulb is doing the same thing. I can't keep sending them back as I have to pay shipping and its pretty expensive.
> 
> 
> Is there any other way to get rid of this flickering? Will I have better luck with an official Epson bulb? Or is there any other seller with more reliable bulbs?
> 
> 
> any help would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> thank you



I'm bumping this as mine has the same issue. It works fine on "normal," but economy is unusable. I've got around 1100 hours on the bulb.

Thanks.


----------



## kevinwoodward

How much is a bulb from HP?


----------



## MississippiMan

150 Day warranty....respectable source too: Approx.$80.00 w/Shipping
http://www.pureglare.com/product/view.aspx?pro_id=BP00404&so=SZ&pid=51164 


Other choices priced lower...the first two with only 90 Days warranty A couple are Amazon Prime

http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/epson-powerlite-hc-8350-genie-lamp/ 

http://www.amazon.com/Electrified-ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Replacement-Projectors/dp/B004S79ZI4/ref=pd_sim_e_6 


The one below however is _the least expensive of all_ yet comes with a 150 Day Warranty *"AND"* is Amazon Prime

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LOWIQW/ref=asc_df_B007LOWIQW2751651?smid=A2432X22LVZ06G&tag=dealtmp650272-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395129&creativeASIN=B007LOWIQW 


Hard not to love that one.


----------



## Topher

Since most people who post have problems, I thought I'd post my experience.

I've had mine for going on 2 years & am completely happy with it. Mind you, I don't use it much, execpt for sports mostly, & have only 517 hours on it.

It has perfect convergence with no pixel misalignment that I can see, not even a half. I have a 2.4 gain Elunevision Elara screen so I run in eco mode & haven't had any problem with the iris. There are no dust blobs or coloured bands. (That reminds me - I should clean the filter. Can't remember the last I did that.) The picture's bright & punchy (should be with a 2.4 gain screen) & the blacks are very, very good.

Hope this helps with people's hesitancy to buy this pj.


----------



## lespurgeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8350_50#post_23755122
> 
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> 
> Ok, I've got the auto-iris issue. But in my particular case, my 2 year warranty ran out in May of this year. Now, I had gotten the issue in the past about once in a blue moon - maybe once every 4-6 months, just turn it off, wait a bit, and turn it back on again and clear sailing.
> 
> 
> Last night though, that didn't work - same thing when I restarted it about 3-4 times. Then I went and unplugged it completely for 5 minutes. Nope. Uh oh. I finally wound up turning it back on and banging the side of it (gently but firmly - what a fun line to try to walk) when it was starting up and got it to work. No telling what will happen this weekend when I try to watch football. Yes, I probably should have sent it back when I first got it and it was under warranty, but I tend to be an "eh, I can live with it" guy and now it's biting me.
> 
> 
> So, I figure I need to send it in for repairs, and I was wondering - has anybody had to get this fixed AFTER their warranty period has expired, and if so, how much can I expect to pay?
> 
> 
> And I just put a new lamp into it too, sheesh - only 50 hours on the new bulb.
> 
> 
> As for fixing it myself, that's probably a non-starter - just swapping out the bulb was a major endeavor for me...



Mine fortunately had 2 months on warranty. I had such good Epson service, I think it is worth a call to them just to see what they say. Any chance you used a credit card with an extra year warranty?


----------



## PatHB


I bought my Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 about a year ago to replace a Sony H20 I used for many years.  About 2 months ago it start having a Auto Iris has failed message on the screen and the projector would not start, it would not continue it would not go past the error, even though I have auto Iris turned off.  If you reboot the projector it will usually start normally.  

I looked around on the internet and this error is not uncommon.  The reports are that it gets worse and worse until rebooting will no longer work and you have a dead projector on your hands. 

I called Epson and they readily agreed to replace my projector with a refurbished one.  I had to give them a credit card for overnight service since I would at some point have both projectors and I would have an incentive to send back the old one. 

My biggest concern is that I am trading one problem for another having to take a refurbished unit in exchange.  I will report back if my concerns become a reality.


----------



## Project H

How do you prevent the dust blob problem and how often should the filter get cleaned if it is even used sparingly? I've only put about 3-5 hours on it right now.


Do you guys recommend putting the plastic lens cap on the projector when not in use? I'm on the fence about this because i dont want it to mess up the focus everytime i take off the lens cap.


Thanks


----------



## PatHB


Update: (10/11/2013) The Refurbished machine that I got from Epson was nonfunctional.  The Focus Ring was locked in position, unturnable and the when I first powered up the machine it over heated and shut down within 5 min.  I have sent the Refurbished Machine back. 

Since there is a full year left on my factory warranty I have decided to wait and monitor my Auto Iris Failures being on the lookout for any failure pattern. 

In summery a Refurbished unit from Epson is not likely to be any better than broken unit you have.  In some cases it may be worse.


----------



## shufujiala


I just moved in to a house that came with a home theater. It will be my first home projector.


----------



## chastuwall

So I just ordered one of these for our new house that has a media room. There is a 135" fixed screen and the top of the screen is exactly 7'7"" (91") high. The ceiling is 10ft high (120") and the projector will be mounted 14'4" back. Since I don't have the projector yet and the manual I have two questions:


1. What length extension should I use for best results?


2. Should I move the projector forward or back for better results? I have the ability to move it about 2 feet in either direction. (The room is 16 ft wide and 28 feet long - HUGE - hence the big screen)


This is our first projector so I'm really new here and wanting to get the best set up that will help the projector look great and not burn through bulbs constantly.


Any help is appreciated.


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23818984
> 
> 
> How do you prevent the dust blob problem and how often should the filter get cleaned if it is even used sparingly? I've only put about 3-5 hours on it right now.
> 
> 
> Do you guys recommend putting the plastic lens cap on the projector when not in use? I'm on the fence about this because i dont want it to mess up the focus everytime i take off the lens cap.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't believe there is a rock solid way to eliminate dust blobs. This projector is very prone to them. That does not mean you will definitely get them - you may not. But I've had 3 8350's now and they all got annoying dust blobs







And I now have the auto iris problem as well. I have sent it back a 2nd time for repair. I wish you much better luck.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23839770
> 
> 
> I don't believe there is a rock solid way to eliminate dust blobs. This projector is very prone to them. That does not mean you will definitely get them - you may not. But I've had 3 8350's now and they all got annoying dust blobs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I now have the auto iris problem as well. I have sent it back a 2nd time for repair. I wish you much better luck.



should i use a projector cover when it is not in use to prevent dust from coming in? VAPEX sells these - kinda like a shower cap that goes around the projector when not in use.


Anyone put the lens cap on when the projector isnt in use?


I currently have 25 hours on my PJ - when do you start seeing the image degrade as far as the lamp output?


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23846696
> 
> 
> should i use a projector cover when it is not in use to prevent dust from coming in? VAPEX sells these - kinda like a shower cap that goes around the projector when not in use.
> 
> 
> Anyone put the lens cap on when the projector isnt in use?
> 
> 
> I currently have 25 hours on my PJ - when do you start seeing the image degrade as far as the lamp output?



It's the intake of the fans that is sucking the dust out of the air in your house, so covering it will more than likely be no help.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chastuwall*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23837041
> 
> 
> So I just ordered one of these for our new house that has a media room. There is a 135" fixed screen and the top of the screen is exactly 7'7"" (91") high. The ceiling is 10ft high (120") and the projector will be mounted 14'4" back. Since I don't have the projector yet and the manual I have two questions:
> 
> 
> 1. What length extension should I use for best results?
> 
> 
> 2. Should I move the projector forward or back for better results? I have the ability to move it about 2 feet in either direction. (The room is 16 ft wide and 28 feet long - HUGE - hence the big screen)
> 
> 
> This is our first projector so I'm really new here and wanting to get the best set up that will help the projector look great and not burn through bulbs constantly.
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


This projector has excellent optics and "lens shift" that provides good final placement options. It would really be better if you use the installation program at epson.com .

 

I'm no expert, but I think closer to screen is brighter (maybe room isn't light controlled). I would keep it level, put lens-shift at 0%, and find your optimal distance. If you run out of mounting room, start making slight adjustments.

 

Some guys use ladders to test placement. I think you can also use a floor table or stand. Distance from lens to bottom of screen would become distance to top of screen ... when projector is turned upside down and hung.

 

Try to keep front of lens as parallel and perpendicular to screen surface as possible.


----------



## rucks

I am looking for an opinion on the convergence of my refurbished 8350. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Ron Jones

Using green as the reference, it looks link red is out vertidally by one full pixel (up) and blue to is out by 2 pixels vertically (up). I would talk to Epson customer service and see if they will replace it with another exchange.


----------



## Alexdad54

Hi all, I just got a replacement 8350 from Epson as my first one started to show the auto-iris error more frequently and was up to once a month (after a year and a half) and just mounted the new one.

When I got the projector, the lens cap was shattered which tells me that the box must have been banged around . They had shipped the it without an empty accessories box inside to keep the projector support firmly in place.

Well, the new 8350 has a 3-4 pixel convergence in both red and green and also has a yellow tinted stripe running vertically down the left side of the picture (on a 92" screen).

I know that the convergence is just outside acceptable limits and may have been caused by the banging around but what could cause the yellow tint?


I'll be calling Epson in the morning to get another replacement...fingers crossed....


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23736351
> 
> 
> Sent my unit in for return for repair since I liked everything about my projector except the dust blobs present. Waited until the bulb failed and sent it in. Took about 8 days total back and forth. They replaced the optical block, bulb and filter. Unfortunately, now I have a new problem. There is a blue golf ball sized discoloration on the middle of the screen at the far left. Anyone have any idea what that is? Thanks in advance for any and all replies. Epson has good customer service. But I'd prefer bad customer service and a reliable projector compared to good customer service and an unreliable projector.



I once again sent my unit in for repair after getting it back the first time with the blue discoloration I mentioned above. In addition, I developed the auto iris problem for the first time. I just hooked it back up last Friday. This time they once again replaced the optical block and the lamp. The tech stated they were replaced due to auto iris problem and lamp not bright.


So far, I do not detect any problems. In fact, the picture may actually be sharper than before. And the brightness level is fine. No auto iris problems yet. And no dust blobs or discolorations. Of course, with my experiences with this projector over the past 2 years, I'm holding my breath a bit. It's likely just a matter of time before a dust blob appears again. We'll see. I have just a little over a month left on my warranty. Hopefully, I won't experience any additional issues and I can enjoy the projector for some time to come.


When it performs as advertised, it is a fine projector for the money. I'm fine with the errors of omission. Its blacks could be better, it could be sharper etc. I know I'd have to pay more money for better performance. Its errors of commission are its main failing. $1300 might be on the low side for a projector. But it's still a significant chunk of change for many people. There's no excuse for the many problems that this projector has had. Hopefully, the next projector to replace this one in the Epson line will be better engineered. For example, I had not one dust blob over 4 years using my previous projector, the Panasonic AX200. All 3 of my Epson 8350's have developed them. The Epson is in the same room as my Panny was and the room has remained unchanged in that entire time.


Good luck to those who own the 8350. I hope you do not suffer any problems and enjoy your projector. I'll report back with an update if I have any additional problems. But I'll also report back if the repair seems to have solved my problems once and for all.


----------



## stahara

I am getting ready to purchase an Epson 8350 and I need help with a mount selection. Unfortunately, I have to attach the projector mount to an area that is soffited and only 7ft high from the floor. I would like to find a good quality, low profile mount that has some adjustability, if one exists.


I would appreciate any suggestions.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23871825
> 
> 
> I am getting ready to purchase an Epson 8350 and I need help with a mount selection. Unfortunately, I have to attach the projector mount to an area that is soffited and only 7ft high from the floor. I would like to find a good quality, low profile mount that has some adjustability, if one exists.
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any suggestions.



A quick search of this thread would have yielded:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8220#post_23520695


----------



## stahara

I need a low profile ceiling mount for my 8350. I've been reading the thread and think the Chief RPA-168 would be the best choice. When I go to look it up online, it is unclear if it comes with the mounting plate (SLB) for the that attaches to the 8350 or is the plate sold separately. Any feedback would be helpful, I am rather confused.


Also, in one of the posts I read, there was a mention of thermal blanketing. Is this a real issue? Am I going to have big issues with it mounted close to the ceiling?


Thanks


----------



## ravenzin

Having to replace my Sanyo PLV Z5, reluctantly, but because of LCD panel issues. We use it as our primary TV and have put something in the neighborhood of 10,000 hours on it. The room is not light controlled with late afternoon sun streaming in. Morning and evening are fine though most of our serious movie watching happens at night. The screen is an 85" (so not huge). I've quite enjoyed the Sanyo but am in need of a replacement. I'm considering the Epson 8350 for value. Though I've concerns on reliability (seems like a hot topic) and whether or not it will match the PQ of my older model Sanyo, at least. There are no showrooms to demo where I live. Does anyone have any input, soothing advice or dire predictions? If this isn't the projector for me can someone give advice and direction?


----------



## Kilgore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravenzin*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23880983
> 
> 
> Having to replace my Sanyo PLV Z5, reluctantly, but because of LCD panel issues. We use it as our primary TV and have put something in the neighborhood of 10,000 hours on it. The room is not light controlled with late afternoon sun streaming in. Morning and evening are fine though most of our serious movie watching happens at night. The screen is an 85" (so not huge). I've quite enjoyed the Sanyo but am in need of a replacement. I'm considering the Epson 8350 for value. Though I've concerns on reliability (seems like a hot topic) and whether or not it will match the PQ of my older model Sanyo, at least. There are no showrooms to demo where I live. Does anyone have any input, soothing advice or dire predictions? If this isn't the projector for me can someone give advice and direction?



Over the last decade, I went through a Sanyo Z2, a Sanyo Z4, and Epson 6100, and now for the last couple years, an Epson 8350.


I say go for it. Compared to the Z5, the 8350 will blow you away. WAY, WAY brighter, even in Eco mode, and much better, and deeper color, a full Color Management System for easier calibration, and of course, a jump in resolution going from 720p to 1080p. Also, Epson's customer service is THE absolute best in the business.


You will notice the difference immediately when it lights up your room when you turn it on.


----------



## writtensarcasm


I read somewhere that you can't use this projector for more than 3-4 hours at a time without risking blowing out the bulbs, is this true? I'm looking at this projector because of its price, I'm a gamer and I like the low input lag, and image quality is not a major concern of mine. 


I'm also looking to use this in a living room with the lights on most of the time.


----------



## NJPete

Can't say I've heard of that problem. Mine has had many long movie sessions, including all three extended editions of Lord of the Rings in one day and the first 7 Harry Potter films across 2 days.


----------



## writtensarcasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NJPete*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23889766
> 
> 
> Can't say I've heard of that problem. Mine has had many long movie sessions, including all three extended editions of Lord of the Rings in one day and the first 7 Harry Potter films across 2 days.


I purchased it a few hours ago and I'm loving it so far. Watching it with bright lights on and it still looks good. I've read that there is no way to keystone so you need to point it straight at the wall right?


----------



## NJPete




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *writtensarcasm*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23889773
> 
> 
> I purchased it a few hours ago and I'm loving it so far. Watching it with bright lights on and it still looks good. I've read that there is no way to keystone so you need to point it straight at the wall right?



No need for keystone, the lens shift is there to correct for placement issues.


----------



## writtensarcasm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NJPete*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23890070
> 
> 
> 
> No need for keystone, the lens shift is there to correct for placement issues.


 

I've found so far that the lens shift does not correct for not aiming the projector straight at a wall. I had it on an end table at first aiming at the wall at a slight diagonal angle and the shape of the picture was like a rhombus. (I don't think I've ever typed the word rhombus before)


----------



## GTA Beancounter

Hello All,


Being a front projection newbie I'm not sure how serious my issue is but I hope others with more experience can provide some input. I'm not even sure how best to describe it, the quote and link below were the only references I could find on this site where someone has had what I believe to be a similar issue:



"swirling gas like artifact on bright white scenes. It looks like visual distortion you get over the horizon on hot days"
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314538/swirling-artifact-after-lamp-replacement 


In my case, I've had the projector for about 5 months (about 150 hours of use) and it has been great. But last night while watching hockey I noticed this swirling smoke like effect in the middle of the screen, its definitely new. My projector is about 12' from a 108" screen and I'd say the diameter of this artifact was about 2 or 3 feet. What puzzles me is that unlike the poster in the attached link absolutely nothing has changed in my set up. Our HTR is a sealed room in our basement, the projector is ceiling mounted and would not be exposed to any vapor, or foreign substance aside from any dust that may be in the room, and I've never opened it up.


Any thoughts?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## NJPete




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *writtensarcasm*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23890207
> 
> 
> I've found so far that the lens shift does not correct for not aiming the projector straight at a wall. I had it on an end table at first aiming at the wall at a slight diagonal angle and the shape of the picture was like a rhombus. (I don't think I've ever typed the word rhombus before)



You're right - my response yesterday wasn't complete. Yes, you need to have the projector and screen (in your case, wall) as aligned as straight as possible - twist and/or slide the projector until you've got the best rectangle-shaped projected image even if it's not centered on the screen. Then, use the lens shift and zoom controls to center the image in your screen. I've found that using the least amount of shift gives a slightly sharper picture.


----------



## Project H

I understand the Epson 8350 has a few different color modes (shown below - some are specific to the 8700UB). What is the recommended color mode for the Epson 8350? Are there any adverse affects in running the projector in dynamic mode? Does changing the mode shorten the lifespan of the lamp or other components of the PJ?


I use my PJ sparingly, to prolong the longevity of the projector is it recommended to keep it at eco mode?


----


Dynamic: For projecting the brightest picture available.


Living Room: For watching television programs during the day.


THX (Home Cinema 8700 UB) or Natural (Home Cinema 8350): For projecting natural, accurate colors in a dimly lit room.


Theatre (Home Cinema 8700 UB) or Cinema (Home Cinema 8350): For viewing movies in a dimly lit room.


Theatre Black 1 (Home Cinema 8700 UB): For images that are close to those in professional-use broadcast monitors. Use in a fully darkened room.


Theatre Black 2 (Home Cinema 8700 UB): To emphasize rich colors, like those seen in movies at the theater. Use in a fully darkened room.


x.v.Color: For the most natural color reproduction when viewing movies through HDMI.


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23892298
> 
> 
> I understand the Epson 8350 has a few different color modes (shown below - some are specific to the 8700UB). What is the recommended color mode for the Epson 8350? Are there any adverse affects in running the projector in dynamic mode? Does changing the mode shorten the lifespan of the lamp or other components of the PJ?
> 
> 
> I use my PJ sparingly, to prolong the longevity of the projector is it recommended to keep it at eco mode?
> 
> 
> ----
> 
> 
> Dynamic: For projecting the brightest picture available.
> 
> 
> Living Room: For watching television programs during the day.
> 
> 
> THX (Home Cinema 8700 UB) or Natural (Home Cinema 8350): For projecting natural, accurate colors in a dimly lit room.
> 
> 
> Theatre (Home Cinema 8700 UB) or Cinema (Home Cinema 8350): For viewing movies in a dimly lit room.
> 
> 
> Theatre Black 1 (Home Cinema 8700 UB): For images that are close to those in professional-use broadcast monitors. Use in a fully darkened room.
> 
> 
> Theatre Black 2 (Home Cinema 8700 UB): To emphasize rich colors, like those seen in movies at the theater. Use in a fully darkened room.
> 
> 
> x.v.Color: For the most natural color reproduction when viewing movies through HDMI.



In my "man cave" HTR with no windows I use the Cinema mode with no to very dim lighting and I'll use the living room or natural mode when watching sports with some lighting on. I never use dynamic. Generally speaking the lamp life will be prolonged using the less bright modes in eco mode. But the "correct" mode to use really depends on several factors:


1) size and gain of screen

2) projector distance from screen

3) ambient light

4) age of the bulb (as all bulbs will dim somewhat over time)


There are online calculators that you can use to interpret the ideal settings based on the above data.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23892525
> 
> 
> In my "man cave" HTR with no windows I use the Cinema mode with no to very dim lighting and I'll use the living room or natural mode when watching sports with some lighting on. I never use dynamic. Generally speaking the lamp life will be prolonged using the less bright modes in eco mode. But the "correct" mode to use really depends on several factors:
> 
> 
> 1) size and gain of screen
> 
> 2) projector distance from screen
> 
> 3) ambient light
> 
> 4) age of the bulb (as all bulbs will dim somewhat over time)
> 
> 
> There are online calculators that you can use to interpret the ideal settings based on the above data.



thanks for the reply - could you point me to the calculators?


Here is my info:

1) 120 Elite CineWhite 1.1 gain

2) 15.5' throw distance

3) light controlled room - some ambient light as its a shared game room/theater room

4) 25 hours logged on bulb


----------



## horseflesh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTA Beancounter*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23892525
> 
> 
> In my "man cave" HTR with no windows I use the Cinema mode with no to very dim lighting and I'll use the living room or natural mode when watching sports with some lighting on. I never use dynamic.



After a lot of experimenting I arrived at the same place. Cinema mode is really nice in a dark room, but if you start in the bright modes it takes you a while to get used to it.


Edit: Project H, your room is pretty similar to mine, except I have a bigger screen. I bet you'll find Cinema mode is fine. There's no need for the flamethrower modes with light control, in fact, they are too bright for comfort.


----------



## GTA Beancounter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23892763
> 
> 
> thanks for the reply - could you point me to the calculators?
> 
> 
> Here is my info:
> 
> 1) 120 Elite CineWhite 1.1 gain
> 
> 2) 15.5' throw distance
> 
> 3) light controlled room - some ambient light as its a shared game room/theater room
> 
> 4) 25 hours logged on bulb



http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8350-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8370#post_23861199
> 
> 
> I once again sent my unit in for repair after getting it back the first time with the blue discoloration I mentioned above. In addition, I developed the auto iris problem for the first time. I just hooked it back up last Friday. This time they once again replaced the optical block and the lamp. The tech stated they were replaced due to auto iris problem and lamp not bright.
> 
> 
> So far, I do not detect any problems. In fact, the picture may actually be sharper than before. And the brightness level is fine. No auto iris problems yet. And no dust blobs or discolorations. Of course, with my experiences with this projector over the past 2 years, I'm holding my breath a bit. It's likely just a matter of time before a dust blob appears again. We'll see. I have just a little over a month left on my warranty. Hopefully, I won't experience any additional issues and I can enjoy the projector for some time to come.
> 
> 
> When it performs as advertised, it is a fine projector for the money. I'm fine with the errors of omission. Its blacks could be better, it could be sharper etc. I know I'd have to pay more money for better performance. Its errors of commission are its main failing. $1300 might be on the low side for a projector. But it's still a significant chunk of change for many people. There's no excuse for the many problems that this projector has had. Hopefully, the next projector to replace this one in the Epson line will be better engineered. For example, I had not one dust blob over 4 years using my previous projector, the Panasonic AX200. All 3 of my Epson 8350's have developed them. The Epson is in the same room as my Panny was and the room has remained unchanged in that entire time.
> 
> 
> Good luck to those who own the 8350. I hope you do not suffer any problems and enjoy your projector. I'll report back with an update if I have any additional problems. But I'll also report back if the repair seems to have solved my problems once and for all.



Well, another update but much sooner than I intended







After living with my returned projector for the last week and a half, I began to notice that the left side of the picture was not as sharp as the right. I confirmed this with patterns and lettering etc. The pixels on the right appeared almost dead on in some cases or off a half a pixel. On the right, they appeared off 2 pixels or so. So it appears I have some panel alignment issues causing convergence problems and leading to the lack of sharpness on that side.


To ensure that the problem was not being caused by too much lens shift, I moved the piece of furniture I have my projector set on in the back of the room around until I was certain the projector was square using almost no lens shift. Except for perhaps one tiny click sideways if that. This had no effect at all on my problem.


And unfortunately, moving around my projector must have dislodged some dust. So you guessed it, I once again have dust blobs including one prominent one at the top of my screen.


Simply put, this projector is maddening. If I win the millions this weekend, I'm going to take a sledgehammer to it! Since that is unlikely to happen, it will once again be sent back for repair. My warranty is up in a few weeks so this will probably be it for sending it in. If it is not to my satisfaction when I get it back, I plan to demand a new unit or my money back.


I'll post another update when the projector returns from its 3rd go round at the Epson service center.


----------



## WannaKnowTech

Ok so I am getting a weird issue and I am praying someone here can help. Currently im running thee Oppo BDP 103 Blu-ray player HDMI 2 through a Yamaha receiver to an Epson 8350 Projector. Had this set up for quite a while and I always had it set to 36 bit Color and YCbCr 4:4:4 color space. All of my blu-rays played fine and looked great. When I hit the info button on the projector it always read 12 bit deep color. Then I got the Blu-ray for This is the End from Netflix. Every 5 to 10 minutes the picture would distort and then a blank screen would come up and then eventually go back to being normal. for another 5 to 10 minutes. Tried a replacement disc of the same movie and got the same effect. Then I bought the 4k remastered Spider-Man (2002). Now the picture is dropping out every 2 seconds. So I went back into Oppo settings and I switched the color space to RGB Video Level and it all worked perfectly. And I bet if I rented this is the End again it would play fine as well with these new settings. Both RGB Video Level and RGB Video PC work fine,.


So here are my questions.

1. Why did my settings work fine with ALL other blu-rays but not these 2 Sony titles?

2. Since the highest the projector goes is 12 bit do my 30 and 36 bit settings matter at all? I selected them both during and it didn't make it stutter or anything I am just wondering If it does anything?

3.Most importantly am I missing out on anything with the RGB Video Level Color space? To my naked eye I didn't see anything but I also am not doing a side by side comparison. Even the YCbCr 4:2:2 setting makes the projector stutter on those 2 Sony titles. Is there any difference at all for a projector on the low end like mine?


Thank You.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WannaKnowTech*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23894798
> 
> 
> Ok so I am getting a weird issue and I am praying someone here can help. Currently im running thee Oppo BDP 103 Blu-ray player HDMI 2 through a Yamaha receiver to an Epson 8350 Projector. Had this set up for quite a while and I always had it set to 36 bit Color and YCbCr 4:4:4 color space. All of my blu-rays played fine and looked great. When I hit the info button on the projector it always read 12 bit deep color. Then I got the Blu-ray for This is the End from Netflix. Every 5 to 10 minutes the picture would distort and then a blank screen would come up and then eventually go back to being normal. for another 5 to 10 minutes. Tried a replacement disc of the same movie and got the same effect. Then I bought the 4k remastered Spider-Man (2002). Now the picture is dropping out every 2 seconds. So I went back into Oppo settings and I switched the color space to RGB Video Level and it all worked perfectly. And I bet if I rented this is the End again it would play fine as well with these new settings. Both RGB Video Level and RGB Video PC work fine,.
> 
> 
> So here are my questions.
> 
> 1. Why did my settings work fine with ALL other blu-rays but not these 2 Sony titles?
> 
> 2. Since the highest the projector goes is 12 bit do my 30 and 36 bit settings matter at all? I selected them both during and it didn't make it stutter or anything I am just wondering If it does anything?
> 
> 3.Most importantly am I missing out on anything with the RGB Video Level Color space? To my naked eye I didn't see anything but I also am not doing a side by side comparison. Even the YCbCr 4:2:2 setting makes the projector stutter on those 2 Sony titles. Is there any difference at all for a projector on the low end like mine?
> 
> 
> Thank You.



The problem you are having with _This Is the End_ is discussed in the Blu-ray Software forum.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493945/this-is-the-end-blu-ray-issues


----------



## Cyberathlete

Anyone know how I can get rid of a dust blob in the projector? Thanks!


It's not an issue or an annoyance to me, but I am looking to sell the projector and am honest about my listings so would rather take care of that minor issue rather than call it out. Thanks!


----------



## Project H

my epson 8350 has a 4 year warranty through best buy which includes one free bulb replacement. do you guys know if they typically replace it with oem bulbs or something like the one in the link below? Just out of curiosity how is the one in the link below as it costs just $60.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-powerlite-hc-8350-hc-8100-hc-8500ub-hc-8500ub-et-lad60-elplp49-v13h010l49-compatible-lamp/1308599029.p;jsessionid=6467C7A56BA71A56AB003D83486FF72E.bbolsp-app01-111?id=mp1308599029&skuId=1308599029&st=epson%208350&cp=1&lp=2


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23895098
> 
> 
> 
> The problem you are having with *This Is the End* is discussed in the Blu-ray Software forum.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493945/this-is-the-end-blu-ray-issues


Interesting.

 

So is it poor (or non-compliant) mastering? Or, is it the HDMI not being able to handle the increased band-width?

 

As, for OP problem, I would guess a bad cable or mastered bandwidth exceeding cables and/or equipment. Could possibly be just one place in HDMI chain.

 

FYI, my Panny Plasma always does that blanked-out HDMI re-sync a few minutes into any HDCP content. But only once per movie. Never seen the 8350 do it.


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23911794
> 
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> 
> So is it poor (or non-compliant) mastering? Or, is it the HDMI not being able to handle the increased band-width?
> 
> 
> As, for OP problem, I would guess a bad cable or mastered bandwidth exceeding cables and/or equipment. Could possibly be just one place in HDMI chain.
> 
> 
> FYI, my Panny Plasma always does that blanked-out HDMI re-sync a few minutes into any HDCP content. But only once per movie. Never seen the 8350 do it.



I had the exact same issue where the picture would go out on This Is The End with my 8350. I was worried that it was a bad cable. I tried playing it on another blu-ray player and it worked.


----------



## anthonywoy

Looking to do some calibration on my 8350, has a few hundred hours on it already. Got the Disney WoW disc, is there anything else to do? ( or point me in the right direction).


Would taking the calibration settings from the ProjectorReview of the Epson 8350 make any sense, or am I wasting my time because each projector should be calibrated on its own?


Any downside to not engaging the auto iris/ (noisy, in eco mode). I assume the black levels are not as good, but how much am I losing?


Thanks


----------



## vidkidd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthonywoy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23916227
> 
> 
> Looking to do some calibration on my 8350, has a few hundred hours on it already. Got the Disney WoW disc, is there anything else to do? ( or point me in the right direction).
> 
> 
> Would taking the calibration settings from the ProjectorReview of the Epson 8350 make any sense, or am I wasting my time because each projector should be calibrated on its own?
> 
> 
> Any downside to not engaging the auto iris/ (noisy, in eco mode). I assume the black levels are not as good, but how much am I losing?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Before you jump into calibration, make sure it is focused. Display 4x4.gif on your projector over HDMI as a tiled desktop background. When in focus, it presents a sharply defined grid pattern across your display. It also identifies any image distortions from the projector's rendering engine that are caused when digital zoom or keystone adjustments are made.

 

mappingTestPatterns.zip 53k .zip file


----------



## anthonywoy

Thanks vidkidd. How are you displaying these images, via a computer? Can I use an iPad via Apple TV?


----------



## pacemaker

Hi guys, long time


I am having the flickering bulb issue again. Before the fix was to run in normal mode for a few hours. But this no longer works for me. I am now out of warranty having had a refurb unit due to this fault a couple of years ago


Will a new bulb fix it?

Is there a new fix?


Thanks and apologies if it has been covered but 280+ pages is a lot to take in


----------



## vidkidd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthonywoy*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23920327
> 
> 
> Thanks vidkidd. How are you displaying these images, via a computer? Can I use an iPad via Apple TV?



I am displaying them from a Windows Media Center box as a tiled desktop background. This technique would work from OSX as well.


----------



## Htdude14

Bulb just died after 1371 hours(apprx), not impressed...


----------



## detroit1

I had the original bulb that came with the projector and it also dimmed bigtime and had to be replaced at about 1300 hours. I had to call and ***** and they sent me another bulb which is working but I also get the flickering. It gets dimmer and then goes back to normal


it would be a waste to pay full price for the Epson bulb. At this point, it is much better to buy the cheaper $60 bulb and see how long that lasts


300 is way too much for a bulb that goes out long before the 3,000 hour mark


----------



## Htdude14

Guess I am not the only one, disappointing though. Agree on the bulb cost, guess I will have to find one on Ebay.


----------



## pacemaker

i have the original bulb with over 2000 hours and the picture is still great apart from the flickering. which is the light going bright and dimmer at random intervals

when the engineer came out he said it was a board fault not bulb.

i would change it in a heartbeat if i thought a new bulb would fix the problem. just don't want to waste cash


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *detroit1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400_100#post_23927165
> 
> 
> another bulb which is working but I also get the flickering. It gets dimmer and then goes back to normal



Take the bulb off of ECO.. Mine did that on eco and when I switched it to bright for a while it would go back to eco fine.. Eventually I just decided to use Bright all the time and when the bulb goes it goes.


----------



## pacemaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *F12Bwth*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23930538
> 
> 
> Take the bulb off of ECO.. Mine did that on eco and when I switched it to bright for a while it would go back to eco fine.. Eventually I just decided to use Bright all the time and when the bulb goes it goes.



only problem is the extra noise!

wish there was a way to keep the fan on low speed


----------



## F12Bwth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400_100#post_23931452
> 
> 
> only problem is the extra noise!
> 
> wish there was a way to keep the fan on low speed



If you could you could kiss that bulb goodbye. Even when I ran on eco I had it on "high-altitude" mode so the fan ran harder and longer. The fan noise doesn't affect me at all but it may be the way it is situated on a shelf and not hung upside down. You could probably add a sound block between you and the projector. Some thin masonite or plastic that just blocks the line of site.


----------



## Htownmattro


Hello,  new to the forum,

 

I have an Epson 8350 projector that I use for television viewing along with movies.

 

Something happened 2 days ago,  while changing channels the picture pops up for 1/2 a second then the screen goes black for about 7 seconds before the picture and the channel I switched to appears.

Before you could just keep changing channels and they came right up. Now its a black screen for 7 to 8 seconds before the picture lights up.

 

I hear the projector doing something when it lights up,  like it is focusing or something.

 

Anyone have any idea's here??

 

(I have my HD cable box running through it)

 

Put this in the other forum by mistake,  if you see this twice. Sorry


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Htownmattro*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23936941
> 
> 
> 
> Hello,  new to the forum,
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 8350 projector that I use for television viewing along with movies.
> 
> 
> 
> Something happened 2 days ago,  while changing channels the picture pops up for 1/2 a second then the screen goes black for about 7 seconds before the picture and the channel I switched to appears.
> 
> Before you could just keep changing channels and they came right up. Now its a black screen for 7 to 8 seconds before the picture lights up.
> 
> 
> 
> I hear the projector doing something when it lights up,  like it is focusing or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea's here??
> 
> 
> 
> (I have my HD cable box running through it)
> 
> 
> 
> Put this in the other forum by mistake,  if you see this twice. Sorry


I'm guessing you are using HDMI because most people do these days. Sounds like HDMI negotiation ... gotten longer for some reason. Some device in HDMI chain. I would be looking close at CableBox.

 

For sound, there is also an AMP, right? Lots of HDMI cables (re-seat them).

 

If you have a small HDMI TV, you could bring it in and hook-up instead of 8350. Anyway, you will have to troubleshoot to find and isolate problem to one machine (or cable) before you can fix it.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23928634
> 
> 
> i have the original bulb with over 2000 hours and the picture is still great apart from the flickering. which is the light going bright and dimmer at random intervals
> 
> when the engineer came out he said it was a board fault not bulb.
> 
> i would change it in a heartbeat if i thought a new bulb would fix the problem. just don't want to waste cash


I would try a new bulb (so much easier and cheaper than a board swap). With 2000 hours on original bulb, you will need it soon anyway.


----------



## Destx

I have been bouncing around between PJs and this one seems to be perfect for my needs. I am just worried by the OVERWHELMING amount of issues this PJ seems to have. Reviews on a lot of sites including this one makes it seem like I would be spending more time getting this repaired than using it.


Can anyone with a lot of experience comment? I would be buying a refurbished one.


----------



## Htownmattro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23937354
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing you are using HDMI because most people do these days. Sounds like HDMI negotiation ... gotten longer for some reason. Some device in HDMI chain. I would be looking close at CableBox.
> 
> 
> 
> For sound, there is also an AMP, right? Lots of HDMI cables (re-seat them).
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a small HDMI TV, you could bring it in and hook-up instead of 8350. Anyway, you will have to troubleshoot to find and isolate problem to one machine (or cable) before you can fix it.


Sorry,  I should have been a little more detailed.

 

I have my Comcast HD cable box connected to a Denon Receiver with an HDMI cable.  Then I have the outlet of the receiver going to the Epson projector using a HDMI cable also.

 

SO you think it in my cables then?  Everything still works and looks great,  just a 8 second delay to get a picture when I change channels. Even when I turn on my PS3 (Connected with HDMI also)  it has the same delay before you get the picture.

 

 When I change channels I am getting the sound right away,  just not the picture until about 7 to 8 seconds later.

 

Thanks for your help.  I will do some HDMI trouble shooting


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Htownmattro*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23938702
> 
> 
> Sorry,  I should have been a little more detailed.
> 
> 
> I have my Comcast HD cable box connected to a Denon Receiver with an HDMI cable.  Then I have the outlet of the receiver going to the Epson projector using a HDMI cable also.
> 
> 
> SO you think it in my cables then?  Everything still works and looks great,  just a 8 second delay to get a picture when I change channels. Even when I turn on my PS3 (Connected with HDMI also)  it has the same delay before you get the picture.
> 
> 
> When I change channels I am getting the sound right away,  just not the picture until about 7 to 8 seconds later.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.  I will do some HDMI trouble shooting



You can try posting in this forum area for additional help.

* HDMI Q&A - The One Connector World *


----------



## kevinwoodward

I have a denon receiver, fios cable box and do not have this issue.


----------



## Itsdon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Destx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23937427
> 
> 
> I have been bouncing around between PJs and this one seems to be perfect for my needs. I am just worried by the OVERWHELMING amount of issues this PJ seems to have. Reviews on a lot of sites including this one makes it seem like I would be spending more time getting this repaired than using it.
> 
> 
> Can anyone with a lot of experience comment? I would be buying a refurbished one.



Folks don't normally talk about their devices if they are happy and not having problems. Usually folks come here to talk about and find solutions to their particular issue. There are maybe 100-200 people here (I dunno, just guessing) and Epson sells hundreds of thousands of these units (guessing again). I wouldn't worry about it. I've had my 8350 for 2 years now, on the original lamp (1,200 hours) and it is a solid performer - not one issue. I love this thing. Incredible bang for the buck.


----------



## pacemaker

Tbh most [people on here are fussy buggers (me included) and not only look for problems but find things others would never notice


i am still impressed with the picture quality after three years of use and see no current need to upgrade.

And it would appear the experts agree as it is still in the top ten home cinema projectors despite its age:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home-theater-multimedia-projectors.htm


----------



## kevinwoodward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Itsdon*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23940770
> 
> 
> Folks don't normally talk about their devices if they are happy and not having problems. Usually folks come here to talk about and find solutions to their particular issue. There are maybe 100-200 people here (I dunno, just guessing) and Epson sells hundreds of thousands of these units (guessing again). I wouldn't worry about it. I've had my 8350 for 2 years now, on the original lamp (1,200 hours) and it is a solid performer - not one issue. I love this thing. Incredible bang for the buck.



Yeah I am in his camp as well, 2+ years 1400+ hours no issues, I have had the auto iris error, I turn it off then on and I am good.

I don't measure every pixel on convergence and what not, I don't know how and I think I am getting an amazing picture for 1200 dollars if

i wanted the best picture possible I would get a projector closer to 5K


----------



## imagic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pacemaker*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23940962
> 
> 
> Tbh most [people on here are fussy buggers (me included) and not only look for problems but find things others would never notice
> 
> *i am still impressed with the picture quality after three years of use and see no current need to upgrade.*
> 
> And it would appear the experts agree as it is still in the top ten home cinema projectors despite its age:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/home-theater-multimedia-projectors.htm


That's awesome! I picked one up recently and I love it.


----------



## boucho13

I am a long time lurker here, and have learned a lot from the input of others. Like others have said, most people that come to forums like this are having issues and are looking for solutions, but that isn't necessarily representative of the thousands of perfectly happy owners.


I am probably one of the heaviest users here as I am on my 3rd bulb with approximately 5000 hours on my projector. I have owned it for just over 2 1/2 years, and aside from a few random dust blobs (which haven't concerned me enough to disassemble and clean out), I have been extremely happy with my 8350. It has always had near perfect convergence, has ALWAYS been run on Dynamic, and I've never used the auto iris (I don't like the noise, or notice any significant difference).


This is my third projector, the first two being 720P Optoma and Panasonic units, and I wanted an affordable 1080P projector. I personally would not hesitate to buy another one today if mine decided to take an early departure from this world.


I've read about the misfortunes of others here and I can certainly understand their frustrations, but I have been extremely satisfied since day one.


----------



## kevinwoodward

5.5 hours a day? are you using this as your tv?


----------



## boucho13

Yes, it is used as my primary TV in my living room projected onto a 120" screen. Some days it can be on from noon until 2:30 in the morning.


----------



## imagic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boucho13*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23943450
> 
> 
> Yes, it is used as my primary TV in my living room projected onto a 120" screen. Some days it can be on from noon until 2:30 in the morning.


I love it! I'm using mine *right now* as a giant computer monitor in Living Room mode, Eco, Iris off.


----------



## boucho13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imagic*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23943525
> 
> 
> I love it! I'm using mine _right now_ as a giant computer monitor in Living Room mode, Eco, Iris off.



Mine gets used for everything including a computer monitor, Netflix, cable TV, and PS3!


I have never run mine in economy mode either, and I've never experienced any flickering.


I hope that my singing praises today doesn't jinx myself!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Destx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23937427
> 
> 
> I have been bouncing around between PJs and this one seems to be perfect for my needs. I am just worried by the OVERWHELMING amount of issues this PJ seems to have. Reviews on a lot of sites including this one makes it seem like I would be spending more time getting this repaired than using it.
> 
> 
> Can anyone with a lot of experience comment? I would be buying a refurbished one.


 

I bought mine new at local BestBuy store 2.5 years ago. Never had any issues with it ... works great for us.


----------



## Project H

What exactly is economy mode - didnt see this option when i went through the different settings.


also, is there any issue with running this projector for a couple of hours for gaming? i plan to use it on occasion for xbox one...


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23947467
> 
> 
> What exactly is economy mode - didnt see this option when i went through the different settings.
> 
> 
> also, is there any issue with running this projector for a couple of hours for gaming? i plan to use it on occasion for xbox one...



Economy mode refers to the lamp setting. Find it under Power Consumption in the main image menu. The lamp is rated for longer life when using this setting. Try it and and see if the picture is bright enough in your theater setting. if so, no harm in using it. At least until your picture starts to dim. Then you can up it to normal. There have been reports of picture flickering when using Econ setting. Normally, switching to normal mode solves the problem. Economy setting also is quieter than the normal setting which may make a meaningful difference in your theater.


I use my projector as my TV. Many others do as well. Everything is better using the big screen! I've gamed on it for 6-8 hours on occasion with no ill effects. Of course, you'll have to replace the bulb more often if you use the projector as your main TV. But the experience is worth it - at least for me. Cheers!


----------



## pagan97

Just wondering if anyone has used Square trade to have the Dust Blob issue addressed? I have had my projector for 14 mos. and the issue has slowly been growing over time. I could spin the Epson wheel of refurbs and hope for the best, or would I be better off submitting a claim thru ST? Other than the blobs, I am not having any issues and would hate to take the chance of getting a total crap unit from epson. I know I can attempt the cleaning method myself following the tutorial, but I worry about screwing it up and voiding warranty. If I send it in to SquareTrade, will they clean it and send it back?


----------



## joeags

I haven't checked this thread since I've been a happy 8350 owner for 2 1/2 years. I had no real convergence issues (this projector isn't razor sharp, but from the 10' viewing distance, was excellent to me), and never had any issues with dust blobs or any others. I've had it on a shelf the entire time, and never had to shift focus or zoom after setting it, so even though it's all manual (with a bit of give on the lens shift), I never had any movement issues even with a current 7 year old running around like crazy. Just yesterday I had my first issue, and that was a bulb explosion. I used it around 1500 hours, so it was definitely sooner than I had feared, but not outrageous given the length I've used the projector.


One quick question probably for an installer like MississippiMan: I am in the process of ceiling mounting the projector on a sloped ceiling with a plug / hdmi outlet. For a 100" screen, is there a distance that is kind of future proof when it comes to mounting distance from the screen? I have up to 28' of distance that I can mount (ha!), but am thinking the 11-12' range is safest for upgrade options in the future. Would that be a safe guess?


----------



## SergeS2K

I will be a proud new owner of an 8350 hopefully by this Saturday as long as there are no delays in shipping










I got this package: http://www.visualapex.com/projector-package-deals/home-theater-projector-package.asp?for-the=Home-Cinema-8350-R&Screen=FF_120 


Refurb but at least the 2 year warranty will still apply. I've messed with the calculator on projector central, and admittedly I've little experience with projectors but from what I've calculated, I should be able to project onto a 120 inch screen from about 13 feet away. I have some room to play with so regardless I should find a good setup in my room. Just wanted to share my happiness with everyone here, and will try to get pictures as well when everything is setup!


----------



## elmalloc

Good luck, I can't fit 120" in my room (only have 11ft throw). I would buy that package too!


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23967981
> 
> 
> Good luck, I can't fit 120" in my room (only have 11ft throw). I would buy that package too!



Yeah, from what I gather, I can project it onto a 120 inch screen from 13 1/2 feet away at about a 1.80x zoom. I've read that 1.50 zoom is the best but hopefully this increase isn't too big of a deal. The room it's in is temporary anyway as I should be getting a new home next year so I didn't want to settle for a smaller screen, and then have to go and buy a new screen in a few months.


----------



## elmalloc

In my opinion it's best to use max zoom, but to each their own. Meaning the closest lens to projector is 11'9" + 15.7" depth of the projector + some room to vent behind it. 13.5 ft total is OK then (5-6"" of venting behind the PJ).


If it's your first PJ don't worry about zoom/etc., just make sure the projector is aligned/plumb with your wall so you get a square/rectangular image, focus it - and have fun.


----------



## F12Bwth

I am a bit of a weekend warrior with my 8350.. Had it for 13 months and just ticked over 250 hours on the bulb. I was running in eco for a long time but then got the dimming issue so went to bright mode. Yesterday I turned it on, wiped the memory and started re-calibrating it hardcore. Eco mode on my 92" GraywolfII is a must. It is just too damn bright otherwise.


----------



## Bubtacular

did you ever get that high pitched beeping from the after market bulb thing figured out ? i have it too and am wondering if its the bulb or some sorta built in epson anoyance to make us keep buying only their bulbs ? i need to know if I should replace the bulb or if it just goes away or if its ANY after market bulb, cause its not a faint beep in my environment, it truly just ruins the complete home theatre experience


thanks


----------



## thebigeast44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebigeast44*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8400#post_23894544
> 
> 
> Well, another update but much sooner than I intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After living with my returned projector for the last week and a half, I began to notice that the left side of the picture was not as sharp as the right. I confirmed this with patterns and lettering etc. The pixels on the right appeared almost dead on in some cases or off a half a pixel. On the right, they appeared off 2 pixels or so. So it appears I have some panel alignment issues causing convergence problems and leading to the lack of sharpness on that side.
> 
> 
> To ensure that the problem was not being caused by too much lens shift, I moved the piece of furniture I have my projector set on in the back of the room around until I was certain the projector was square using almost no lens shift. Except for perhaps one tiny click sideways if that. This had no effect at all on my problem.
> 
> 
> And unfortunately, moving around my projector must have dislodged some dust. So you guessed it, I once again have dust blobs including one prominent one at the top of my screen.
> 
> 
> Simply put, this projector is maddening. If I win the millions this weekend, I'm going to take a sledgehammer to it! Since that is unlikely to happen, it will once again be sent back for repair. My warranty is up in a few weeks so this will probably be it for sending it in. If it is not to my satisfaction when I get it back, I plan to demand a new unit or my money back.
> 
> 
> I'll post another update when the projector returns from its 3rd go round at the Epson service center.



Update on my 3rd service call to Epson. Instead of doing another return for repair, they offered to send me a brand new unit and not a refurb. I agreed. I have had the new unit for 2 weeks and so far so good - knock on wood! Hopefully, I'm good for some time to come. Cheers!


----------



## augerpro

I'm helping a friend finish his basement right now and he'll be using the 8350 ceiling mounted when we are finished. We are deciding where to mount the projector right now and I want to make sure I have this right before the sheetrock goes on. We will be going for a 100" screen.


Using the calculator at projector central, it looks like zoom and image brightness are what I need to start with then work back from there. 1) So what is a good zoom? 2) Should I stay near max brightness (22) as a good starting point? I assume this is Dynamic mode, how much does eco drop it if we go that route? Or if we use Living Room mode?


Right now I have 1.64 zoom to stay within the 22fL, which works out to 12'6" throw for a 100" screen.


----------



## mnadeau33

Hi guys,


I've had my projector for 2 years and a half. My setup is Xbox 360, Cable box, PS3 to Denon 3311ci to 40 feet HDMI cable to Epson 8350.


First year I had no problems. In the second year I started to have some occasional HDMI gliches were I had snow in the screen for a brief moment. In the past 6 months it started to get worst...


I changed the 40 feet HDMI cable and it worked for a couple of months than the issue came back. I bought an a cat6 balun, and it was the same issue as with the HDMI calbes. Then I started to change options in my receiver and Epson, resetted both of them...


- So now things are worst than ever and I don't know what I did to get there. While doing tests with a short HDMI cable and bypassing my AVR, the only thing I can get working is my Xbox 360 in the HDMI 2 port (does not work on HDMI 1).

- My PS3 (and friend PS4) are trying to connect (flickering black screen) or I get the Not Supported message bottom left. Same connecting issue when I bring down the resolution of the PS3.

- Thru my AVR, I always get NO INPUT.


My warranty is finished, I am about to buy a new one (and cry), but just wanted to see with you if I was not missing something..


Thanks


----------



## dobieck1

Hello, anyone using the 8350 with the XBOX one and trying to set it up as the TV through the XBOX menu. Its not listed I was wondering what others used to get the XBOX to control it? Is there a specific IR Remote code I can use because you can enter it in the XBONE. Thanks.


----------



## jayteez

is the 8350 a worthy upgrade from the panasonic ae2000u?


----------



## elmalloc

How does your XBONE look through the 8350? I'm considering an 8350 for XBONE and PS4 games due to it's minimal input lag. Thanks!


----------



## SergeS2K

Got my 8350 setup! Please excuse the mess, also I'll be getting a shelving unit for my Xbox One, Cable Box, etc soon, so don't mind how ugly it looks right now! I'll also be routing the cables better but this was initial setup to make sure everything was good!

 


It looks absolutely GORGEOUS! Man, I've seen plenty of videos and pictures of setups, but when you see it yourself in person it's a whole other world! Was playing Avatar on it, and some Xbox One Games and man, I could not be happier, and this was already coming from a 52" Samsung LCD!


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dobieck1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23987056
> 
> 
> Hello, anyone using the 8350 with the XBOX one and trying to set it up as the TV through the XBOX menu. Its not listed I was wondering what others used to get the XBOX to control it? Is there a specific IR Remote code I can use because you can enter it in the XBONE. Thanks.



Same issue here, it won't turn on/off the projector, not the biggest deal but yeah a bit strange.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23989422
> 
> 
> How does your XBONE look through the 8350? I'm considering an 8350 for XBONE and PS4 games due to it's minimal input lag. Thanks!



Very satisfied so far, everything looks great!


----------



## KPOD

How much space do you guys have between the back of your projector and the wall to provide ample ventilation? Also any recommendations for shelves? I'm looking at having my projector, audio receiver, and PS4 on a single shelf above my couch.


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KPOD*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23991366
> 
> 
> How much space do you guys have between the back of your projector and the wall to provide ample ventilation? Also any recommendations for shelves? I'm looking at having my projector, audio receiver, and PS4 on a single shelf above my couch.



I've read about 5 inchs behind the projector. I've got about 5-6 inchs of space behind mine.


----------



## kevinwoodward

Can I suggest some folding doors for that closet and some paint for the walls?

seems very "bright" in there.

good for you looks pretty good?

Is this an apartment or parents basement?


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinwoodward*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23991651
> 
> 
> Can I suggest some folding doors for that closet and some paint for the walls?
> 
> seems very "bright" in there.
> 
> good for you looks pretty good?
> 
> Is this an apartment or parents basement?



Living in a home with other roommates, this is actually my bedroom (Very big I know). The closet is also me and my gfs dogs room which has a door, you may notice the black part on both sides of the closet (The closet is basically another room in itself, can't really see the depth in the pic). It's temporary and I will be moving into my own home next year so I will have a proper/cleaner setup then. So I'm not currently worried about the walls/closet/power cable hanging right out in the open from the projector lol. It still looks wonderful though even during the daytime.


----------



## Ub3r-L33ch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KlingonScum*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8340#post_23788031
> 
> 
> No such luck on the credit card protection (sigh). As luck would have it, I haven't gotten the issue since then.
> 
> 
> One other odd thing, which is likely unrelated. I got an aftermarket bulb from Amazon - the bulb works fine, but there's a very very VERY faint high pitched "beeping" coming from the projector when it's on. If you're listening to audio while watching a show, you can't hear it, but if you've got everything paused you can juuuuust make the noise out. Each beep seems to last a full second, and then there's a couple seconds or so before the next beep. I don't see anything in the manual about any sort of warning or anything that would cause beeping. The old (original) bulb doesn't do this. It doesn't bother me, I'm just curious if anybody else has run into this...
> 
> 
> And also still wondering if anybody's gotten the auto-iris issue fixed through Epson AFTER the warranty had expired and how much I can expect to pay...



I'm having this beeping issue with an aftermarket bulb I got. Does anyone know what this is, or how to stop it?


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SergeS2K*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23990657
> 
> 
> Got my 8350 setup! Please excuse the mess, also I'll be getting a shelving unit for my Xbox One, Cable Box, etc soon, so don't mind how ugly it looks right now! I'll also be routing the cables better but this was initial setup to make sure everything was good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks absolutely GORGEOUS! Man, I've seen plenty of videos and pictures of setups, but when you see it yourself in person it's a whole other world! Was playing Avatar on it, and some Xbox One Games and man, I could not be happier, and this was already coming from a 52" Samsung LCD!



Went out to Ikea to get a little something







. Here's the finished setup along with a pic of it in action, keep in mind these are phone pics, the image quality is definitely as perfect as I can imagine!


----------



## elmalloc

NICE picture, what size?


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_23997084
> 
> 
> NICE picture, what size?



120 inch, Visual Apex Screen, I could not be any happier with it!


----------



## elmalloc

i hate you serge, i hate you!!!! i cannot fit 120" in my room, i will have to hang the projector near the staircase then it will look awkward and decrease my home value immensly i hate you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i want to play kinect sport rivals!!!


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dobieck1*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23987056
> 
> 
> Hello, anyone using the 8350 with the XBOX one and trying to set it up as the TV through the XBOX menu. Its not listed I was wondering what others used to get the XBOX to control it? Is there a specific IR Remote code I can use because you can enter it in the XBONE. Thanks.



I actually got this to work tonight, make sure to choose that you don't see your brand, and type in Epson when it asks, it will try to send different commands to your 8350. It sent a mute command and it acted like the blank option on the remote, and then it sent the menu command and that worked. My xbox one now turns it on automatically, but it won't turn it off, this is probably because it asks for confirmation when turning it off I assume. Otherwise it's nice that it turns it on when I say Xbox turn on!


----------



## SergeS2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_23997192
> 
> 
> i hate you serge, i hate you!!!! i cannot fit 120" in my room, i will have to hang the projector near the staircase then it will look awkward and decrease my home value immensly i hate you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i want to play kinect sport rivals!!!



Haha sorry! I was cutting it close though, I think the shortest throw at 120 inchs is about 11 feet or so. I've got it at about 13 feet.


----------



## elmalloc

IT's the depth, the DEPTH! The PJ is too big! I have only 13 ft in my room Giving it 5" behind for ventiliatoin, I have 12.5 ft to work with. Given the projector is 16" deep (WTF) - I basically have 11ft to throw. The 8350 cannot throw 120" from there from the projection calculator, so I'm doomed!!!!!!!!!!!! I have Xbox one and PS4 and cannot play them appropriately! FML!!!


----------



## Ub3r-L33ch

Originally Posted by KlingonScum View Post


No such luck on the credit card protection (sigh). As luck would have it, I haven't gotten the issue since then.


One other odd thing, which is likely unrelated. I got an aftermarket bulb from Amazon - the bulb works fine, but there's a very very VERY faint high pitched "beeping" coming from the projector when it's on. If you're listening to audio while watching a show, you can't hear it, but if you've got everything paused you can juuuuust make the noise out. Each beep seems to last a full second, and then there's a couple seconds or so before the next beep. I don't see anything in the manual about any sort of warning or anything that would cause beeping. The old (original) bulb doesn't do this. It doesn't bother me, I'm just curious if anybody else has run into this...


And also still wondering if anybody's gotten the auto-iris issue fixed through Epson AFTER the warranty had expired and how much I can expect to pay...


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ub3r-L33ch*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_23992475
> 
> 
> I'm having this beeping issue with an aftermarket bulb I got. Does anyone know what this is, or how to stop it?



Bump, if anyone knows?


----------



## augerpro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *augerpro*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23983607
> 
> 
> I'm helping a friend finish his basement right now and he'll be using the 8350 ceiling mounted when we are finished. We are deciding where to mount the projector right now and I want to make sure I have this right before the sheetrock goes on. We will be going for a 100" screen.
> 
> 
> Using the calculator at projector central, it looks like zoom and image brightness are what I need to start with then work back from there. 1) So what is a good zoom? 2) Should I stay near max brightness (22) as a good starting point? I assume this is Dynamic mode, how much does eco drop it if we go that route? Or if we use Living Room mode?
> 
> 
> Right now I have 1.64 zoom to stay within the 22fL, which works out to 12'6" throw for a 100" screen.



Anyone have any advice for what I posted above?


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *augerpro*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24006627
> 
> 
> Anyone have any advice for what I posted above?



You should really read the entire Epson 8350 review by Art Feierman it discusses most of your points.


Going from full power to eco mode drops the light output about 23%.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-8350-projector-performance/ 


The brightest picture is achieved at the closest end of the throw range, no surprise there. Does your friend mind having the projector in front of the seating area? Overhead or behind?


Although 100" seems like a large screen the day will come when he will regret not having gone bigger.


----------



## linkseo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FUN4ME*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7260#post_22184983
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tutorial.
> 
> For anyone considering doing this I recommend doing it.
> 
> It is easy and it worked for me.
> 
> I dont think that removing the case will void the warranty.
> 
> 
> I did not notice any "void if seal is broken" stickers anywhere, maybe they are hidden.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess if you are worried about a warranty issue just send it back and hope you get a good replacement.



Can you tell us what compressed air you used? how long did you hold the air? 1 second? 10 seconds? did you do multiple short bursts of air? etc

Thanks


----------



## augerpro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24007030
> 
> 
> You should really read the entire Epson 8350 review by Art Feierman it discusses most of your points.
> 
> 
> Going from full power to eco mode drops the light output about 23%.
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-8350-projector-performance/
> 
> 
> The brightest picture is achieved at the closest end of the throw range, no surprise there. Does your friend mind having the projector in front of the seating area? Overhead or behind?
> 
> 
> Although 100" seems like a large screen the day will come when he will regret not having gone bigger.



The screen isn't built yet, so we can go with a 120" and see what looks best. He'd be up for that. I would guess he wants the projector behind the seating area. I don't remember where that is exactly but it is maybe 12-13' I think. I'm reading that review, regarding the light output between the different modes, I'm not sure how lumens converts to the brightness fL used in the projector central calculator. Is 23% less on one the same as 23% less on the other, or are these log scales, or?


----------



## FUN4ME




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *linkseo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24011590
> 
> 
> Can you tell us what compressed air you used? how long did you hold the air? 1 second? 10 seconds? did you do multiple short bursts of air? etc
> 
> Thanks


I just used the stuff from radio shack....a few short bursts 2 3 seconds each in As many directions as possible. Make sure you keep the can upright so only "air" comes out if the can is on its side liquid will come out and it is very cold and might damage the panels.

Good luck let us know how it works out for you


----------



## develvjd-

Looking for a replacement 8350 bulb in Indianapolis this morning! Saturday, Nov 30...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1502684/long-shot-need-replacement-8350-bulb-today-indianapolis 


Thanks everybody.


On a related note... had this projector installed since Jan-2011. STILL LOVE THIS THING!


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *augerpro*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24012689
> 
> 
> The screen isn't built yet, so we can go with a 120" and see what looks best. He'd be up for that. I would guess he wants the projector behind the seating area. I don't remember where that is exactly but it is maybe 12-13' I think. I'm reading that review, regarding the light output between the different modes, I'm not sure how lumens converts to the brightness fL used in the projector central calculator. Is 23% less on one the same as 23% less on the other, or are these log scales, or?



For a reference look at the recent post in this thread where the projector is using a throw range of 13.5' with a 120" (16:9) screen. The seating is directly beneath the projector.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8430#post_23990657 


If you have a throw range of 12-13' and want the projector behind you then you're sitting fairly close to the screen. You don't mention the seating distance to screen.


Here's a paragraph that explains how the Projector Central calculator is set up.


> Quote:
> In theory, lumens and foot-Lamberts are related-one foot-Lambert of luminance is equal to one lumen per square foot. But there is no direct relationship between the ANSI lumen ratings from the manufacturer and the foot-Lambert measurements as reported in the Calculator. That is because the Calculator factors in reduced lumen outputs for video optimization and average lamp usage, in order to estimate a typical viewing experience.


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/home_theater_projector_buyers_guide.htm?page=Brightness 


So from this explanation I come away with the impression that the calculator already factors in the reduced light output (eco mode) of the projector.


----------



## stahara

I've read a lot of this thread but haven't quite found a definitive answer. I am in the process of finishing my home theater area and have a challenging soffit issue. I was planning to have a 110" screen (although I haven't purchased it yet). I have two options for positioning of the projector. I can have it mounted to the bottom of my 7' soffit (around my HVAC duct work) at a throw distance of about 15 feet which would put the bottom of the projector at about 6 feet 2 inches high. Or I can put it just in front of the soffit (8' ceiling) but the throw distance would be about 11 feet and right near the edge of the zoom.


I like having the projector more out of the way but didn't know how well it would operate with the zoom setting. I believe I could live with the projector being at 6'2" if the projector would operate better further back.


I would appreciate any feedback.


Thanks.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24025899
> 
> 
> I've read a lot of this thread but haven't quite found a definitive answer. I am in the process of finishing my home theater area and have a challenging soffit issue. I was planning to have a 110" screen (although I haven't purchased it yet). I have two options for positioning of the projector. I can have it mounted to the bottom of my 7' soffit (around my HVAC duct work) at a throw distance of about 15 feet which would put the bottom of the projector at about 6 feet 2 inches high. Or I can put it just in front of the soffit (8' ceiling) but the throw distance would be about 11 feet and right near the edge of the zoom.
> 
> 
> I like having the projector more out of the way but didn't know how well it would operate with the zoom setting. I believe I could live with the projector being at 6'2" if the projector would operate better further back.
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any feedback.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



How exact are your measurements? If you really have an 11 foot throw to the screen the calculator shows the near range at 10' 9" for a 110" (16:9) screen. This would allow for the brightest picture.


However this close to the screen the projector will likely be located in front of the seating area. Would this bother you? Do you want it overhead or behind you?


----------



## stahara




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24026267
> 
> 
> How exact are your measurements? If you really have an 11 foot throw to the screen the calculator shows the near range at 10' 9" for a 110" (16:9) screen. This would allow for the brightest picture.
> 
> 
> However this close to the screen the projector will likely be located in front of the seating area. Would this bother you? Do you want it overhead or behind you?



I think my measurements are pretty accurate. I could always go to a slightly smaller screen if I had to. I need to wait until the construction is further along to be sure. Yes the 11' throw position would have the projector in front of the main seating area but it would be on a shelf 'built-in' to the soffit. My contractor has a setup similar in his home theater (same projector) and he say he can't hear it. However I also have ventilation concerns with this setup so I'd have to make sure that is addressed.


The main purpose of my question is whether or not there is a down side (picture quality, performance, etc.) to operating the projector at this distance for a 110' screen size. I am a little nervous about operating on the edge of the limit of the zoom but if there is no downside then I can get over it.


Thanks.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24026557
> 
> 
> I think my measurements are pretty accurate. I could always go to a slightly smaller screen if I had to. I need to wait until the construction is further along to be sure. Yes the 11' throw position would have the projector in front of the main seating area but it would be on a shelf 'built-in' to the soffit. My contractor has a setup similar in his home theater (same projector) and he say he can't hear it. However I also have ventilation concerns with this setup so I'd have to make sure that is addressed.
> 
> 
> The main purpose of my question is whether or not there is a down side (picture quality, performance, etc.) to operating the projector at this distance for a 110' screen size. I am a little nervous about operating on the edge of the limit of the zoom but if there is no downside then I can get over it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



This is what Projector Central has to say:


> Quote:
> *Zoom and Light Output*. The Home Cinema 8350's 2.1:1 zoom lens is a great feature for placement flexibility. However, if you use of the telephoto end of the lens (the setting that produces the smallest image for a given throw distance), lumen output drops by 39% compared to what you get with the lens set at maximum wide angle. This light loss is typical for a 2x zoom lens, and it needs to be taken into account when choosing your throw distance and screen size. For example, Cinema mode delivers 556 lumens with the lens at wide angle, but only 340 lumens with the lens at maximum telephoto. 340 lumens is fine for a 100" diagonal screen in a dark room, but with larger screen sizes you may want to think about ceiling mounting to get the projector closer to the screen for maximum lumen output.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, this does not mean you should simply use maximum wide angle at all times. Telephoto does have the advantage of focusing the light coming from the projector into a tighter cone, which will result in more even screen illumination. And as far as sharpness is concerned, the optical sweet spot of any zoom lens is in the middle of its throw range. So these things should be taken into account as well. All long zooms present the user with trade-offs between brightness, optical precision, and ideal screen illumination.


 http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_home_cinema_8350_projector_review.htm?page=Limitations


----------



## Kendrid

Has anyone fixed the auto-iris error themselves? There are a few videos on Youtube fixing other Epson projectors with the error but none for the 8350. Thanks.


----------



## stahara




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24027365
> 
> 
> This is what Projector Central has to say:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson_home_cinema_8350_projector_review.htm?page=Limitations




Thanks for the help, I think I am going to have to with the position further back. I can't figure a way to get proper ventilation with the configuration just in front of the soffit.


I really appreciate all of the information.


----------



## Wired4Speed2

I believe I am having a handshaking issue between my 8350 and my devices. I was curious if there is anything I should change and specify so that it does not have to handshake so much and simply receives the output vs searching for the auto display settings. My setup includes an Epson 8350, Onkyo HT-S9400 receiver system, and a PS3 for the blurays. Also a Direct TV HD DVR box. I will link to a video I made which is only cell phone quality so I had the light on (doesn't look the best). When I play the blu ray especially Polar Express, I turn everything on, click play on the blu ray through the PS3 then goes through handshaking, then most of the time I get a no signal issue while it handshakes and displayed a bunch of yellow or green lines across the screen. I will have to flip flop through another device (direct tv box) so the projector then auto senses video input and adjust then switch back to PS3 to get the video hopefully. Sometimes this takes 2-4 times of switching. Also I am using a 35 foot redmere cable from MonoPrice.







Thanks in advance.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wired4Speed2*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24039732
> 
> 
> I believe I am having a handshaking issue between my 8350 and my devices. I was curious if there is anything I should change and specify so that it does not have to handshake so much and simply receives the output vs searching for the auto display settings. My setup includes an Epson 8350, Onkyo HT-S9400 receiver system, and a PS3 for the blurays. Also a Direct TV HD DVR box. I will link to a video I made which is only cell phone quality so I had the light on (doesn't look the best). When I play the blu ray especially Polar Express, I turn everything on, click play on the blu ray through the PS3 then goes through handshaking, then most of the time I get a no signal issue while it handshakes and displayed a bunch of yellow or green lines across the screen. I will have to flip flop through another device (direct tv box) so the projector then auto senses video input and adjust then switch back to PS3 to get the video hopefully. Sometimes this takes 2-4 times of switching. Also I am using a 35 foot redmere cable from MonoPrice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Re-seat all HDMI cables.

 

Start swapping cables and devices until you get down to a basic 100% working config ... then build it back up one change at a time.

 

Since you suggest problem is pointing to projector, I would replace Redmere with a proper normal high speed 22 gauge 1.4 HDMI cable. Run cables across floor (for fast test) if you have to.

 

Bringing a HDMI TV into room would help troubleshooting as a first step. It would test whole setup real fast (amp, PS3). If problem is ever PS3, real Blu-Ray players are around $100.


----------



## jnabq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wired4Speed2*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24039732
> 
> 
> I believe I am having a handshaking issue between my 8350 and my devices. I was curious if there is anything I should change and specify so that it does not have to handshake so much and simply receives the output vs searching for the auto display settings. My setup includes an Epson 8350, Onkyo HT-S9400 receiver system, and a PS3 for the blurays. Also a Direct TV HD DVR box. I will link to a video I made which is only cell phone quality so I had the light on (doesn't look the best). When I play the blu ray especially Polar Express, I turn everything on, click play on the blu ray through the PS3 then goes through handshaking, then most of the time I get a no signal issue while it handshakes and displayed a bunch of yellow or green lines across the screen. I will have to flip flop through another device (direct tv box) so the projector then auto senses video input and adjust then switch back to PS3 to get the video hopefully. Sometimes this takes 2-4 times of switching. Also I am using a 35 foot redmere cable from MonoPrice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Make sure your Onkyo is set to "pass through only" so it isn't trying to do anything to the signal. Sometimes the playstation will "remember" an old video setup setting. You might try going back into the playstation and redo your settings while the pj is connected. Couple of things to check.


----------



## jst2see

Hi there,


I just purchased an Epson 8350 as my first projector and know I'm going to love it. I'm waiting on a screen that's being shipped so in the meantime have rigged up a bed-sheet in order to run the projector, learn how it works, etc. After the first couple of days I've noticed a very distinct arc of light that extends below the lower edge of the view area. You can see it in the picture. The color changes depending on what is on the screen. Does anyone have an idea what this is and more importantly, how to get rid of it? Thank you!


----------



## stahara

I'm about to purchase my 8350 finally but have been disappointed that there really weren't any Black Friday deal on it. Looks like it pretty much $1299 everywhere. I saw that Visual Apex had refurbs for $929 (although must not be in stock since it says preorder - shipments arriving weekly).


Anyway, what is the current thinking on refurbs vs. new? Any thought on whether there might be any good deals coming soon?


----------



## pagan97

Not sure about any deals coming up, but have heard many horror stories on refurbs. Just not worth it in my opinion. I bought mine from Tiger direct and i am sur it was B stock. Lots of issues. Epson sent me a new unit from their stock as a replacement and it ws a night and day difference. I would buy from them or Crutchfield, or another highend online retailer. I did get a good price($1099) on my TD purchase but was not worth the hassle to me.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pagan97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24054406
> 
> 
> Not sure about any deals coming up, but have heard many horror stories on refurbs. Just not worth it in my opinion. I bought mine from Tiger direct and i am sur it was B stock. Lots of issues. Epson sent me a new unit from their stock as a replacement and it ws a night and day difference. I would buy from them or Crutchfield, or another highend online retailer. I did get a good price($1099) on my TD purchase but was not worth the hassle to me.


Agreed. BestBuy has PriceMatch and you can take it back for 100% refund if not 100% happy.

 

Plus, I think these 3-LCD projectors are pretty delicate (alignment and all). I would avoid a UPS trip if possible (especially this time of year). If you must UPS, make sure it's "Air Service". A lot less handling says my brother who works there.


----------



## stahara




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pagan97*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8460#post_24054406
> 
> 
> Not sure about any deals coming up, but have heard many horror stories on refurbs. Just not worth it in my opinion. I bought mine from Tiger direct and i am sur it was B stock. Lots of issues. Epson sent me a new unit from their stock as a replacement and it ws a night and day difference. I would buy from them or Crutchfield, or another highend online retailer. I did get a good price($1099) on my TD purchase but was not worth the hassle to me.



Thanks for your opinion, it reinforces what my gut was telling me. I just hoping for a better deal between now and the end of the year.


----------



## rajdori

hi folks, my 8500UB was bought in Feb-11. replaced unit twice in first month, but no bulb or other issues so far, touch wood..


first problem i have faced is that proj just does not recognize HDMI at all. it shows HDMI no signal.

yes, i checked, 'black/blank screen' button was not pressed.

i took it off my AVR (pioneer elite SC-1522), and connected directly to laptop with HDMI. same issue.

tried both HDMI1 and HDMI2 inputs. even then 'no signal'.

did full power cycle, tried factory (all settings) reset. no change.

anyone faced this issue? how did you fix it? please let me know..

thanks in advance..


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajdori*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24059077
> 
> 
> hi folks, my 8500UB was bought in Feb-11. replaced unit twice in first month, but no bulb or other issues so far, touch wood..



Re-post this here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1193261/official-epson-home-cinema-8500ub-thread


----------



## rajdori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MississippiMan*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24060532
> 
> 
> Re-post this here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1193261/official-epson-home-cinema-8500ub-thread



I posted there first. But 8350 and 8500ub are same line of projectors but there would be ten 8350 owners out there for each 8500ub owner. So I posted it here as well.


----------



## dude2006

Dust blobs have RUINED this projector for me.


I bought the 8350 in August 2013. I had to return 3 units in rapid succession in the beginning, first due to excessive lens shift drift, then bad focus, and a dust blob. Was finally happy with my 4th unit, but after 3 months it developed a green blob that was always visible. Called Epson, they sent me a refurbished replacement, and unbelievably this one also developed a green blob just a few days after use, and my house is not overly dusty or dirty.


If my case were an isolated incident, I could chalk it up to bad luck or whatever, but I have now read dozens of posts, not only here but on Amazon and other places, of people having the exact same issue, and through no fault of their own.


This projector is a piece of crap in my opinion. Yeah, it produces a nice image, but who cares about that with this dust issue.


I will never buy an Epson product again (at least not a LCD-based projector) and I certainly won't recommend this brand to anyone.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajdori*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24060557
> 
> 
> 
> I posted there first. But 8350 and 8500ub are same line of projectors but there would be ten 8350 owners out there for each 8500ub owner. So I posted it here as well.


It's just that it's a different model.

 

Are you sure no warranty (even credit card extention)?

 

We can help you determine if it's really broken. Involves connecting multiple (verified working) Input devices, locally, directly into HDMI inputs.

 

Are you certified/capable of working inside projector, or will you have to pay tech to do it?


----------



## Project H

If a Epson 8350 is being used sparingly what is the maintenance required on a weekly/monthly basis? Do you guys recommend cleaning out the filter - if so, how do you do this safely? should i put a lens cap on when not in use?


----------



## rajdori

I have Amex extneded warranty, but it was a floor model, and written so on invoice. so not sure if they will honor it.


and yes, i can work inside proj if instructed what to do.. can you please send me some instructions,


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24070723
> 
> 
> It's just that it's a different model.
> 
> 
> Are you sure no warranty (even credit card extention)?
> 
> 
> We can help you determine if it's really broken. Involves connecting multiple (verified working) Input devices, locally, directly into HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> Are you certified/capable of working inside projector, or will you have to pay tech to do it?


----------



## gizmo8500


Got my first home theater setup after buying two 8350's off ebay. I fully understood the risks of buying these used projectors but it turned out pretty good. I built a 168in (diag) screen and mount for the projector. I have a couple questions though.

 

One is I see what I think most people call a "dust blob" near the upper right. Doesn't bother me much. It isn't a particular color and it is a small circular shape that is a slightly different shade than what is around it, and there is only one. Do I just need to follow the procedure for blowing it out with canned air as shown earlier in this thread or would it be better just to leave it alone.

 

The other is something which I don't THINK could be caused by dust, and probably is caused by a defect in one of the LCD panels, is both projectors show a reddish hue over certain parts of the image. One the hue covers just over half of the projected image, with a smooth transition to normal color, and the other is more of a giant blotch in the middle of the image. I find that the color hue is very hard to see in color movies, but when watching B&W movies it becomes obvious. Any recommendations on how to remedy this? It's not something I'm willing to spend a lot of money fixing since it doesn't bother me enough and I plan to upgrade these projectors to something better in a few years (laser perhaps if it becomes affordable).

 

Here's my setup:





 

PS any recommendations on what I should do with the second projector? I'm definitely not going to go to the effort of trying to create a passive 3D rig. I'll probably just sell it or keep it as a spare unless I can think of some other good use.


----------



## diat150

is there any consensus on aftermarket bulbs? I tried the $45 bulb from amazon but it wasnt nearly as bright as the OEM bulbs and it made my projector beep. Are there any decent aftermarket bulbs available or should I just stick with the OEM?


----------



## gizmo8500




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diat150*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24096059
> 
> 
> is there any consensus on aftermarket bulbs? I tried the $45 bulb from amazon but it wasnt nearly as bright as the OEM bulbs and it made my projector beep. Are there any decent aftermarket bulbs available or should I just stick with the OEM?


I bought from projectorlampsworld and the bulb was $150 and has worked great, but I also got one on ebay for $100 that seems to be just as good. If I had to guess, once you get below the $100 mark it's probably a suspect bulb, but I could be wrong.


----------



## jglashower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DL4567*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7980#post_23202980
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've had my 8350 for 6 months now, and am loving it. Super quiet on eco/cinema modes. A couple nights ago I turned it on to watch something and noticed the addition of a high pitched "tone" to the fan noise. It has 114 hours on it, and never made this noise before. Literally just started out of the blue.
> 
> 
> I mean, it's pretty subtle, and most people probably wouldn't notice it, but I know it wasn't doing it before and I can hear it in quiet parts of movies now. I watched something else the next day and it was still doing it. Anyone else experiencing this? It's like a very faint whistle noise.
> 
> 
> As a side note, 6 months ago just before getting my 8350 I received and sent back a refurbished 8700UB, and it made a similar noise. I was glad my new 8350 didn't. Is this something all the Epson's do as they get some hours on them?




My 8350 only has 90 hours on it and it started making the high pitched fan noise recently. It sounds like crickets chirping. I tried all the different color modes and eco on and off but nothing makes it go away. The sound is clearly coming from the back of the unit where the air in pulled through the filter. I really only hear the sound when sitting directly below or to the right of the projector. When sitting to the left, my primary seating position, I do not hear the high pitch. The unit is only a couple feet over the seating position (8 ft ceiling and positioned over back row with 10" riser). I considered building some sort of box or putting up some foam on the ceiling to try to absorb some of that sound but I think I will send it back under warranty instead. It just sucks because I already had to exchange one unit due to a flickering issue on certain inputs such as the PS3 menu and Amazon Prime via PS3. Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm!


----------



## shrike2000


I have an Epson 8350 was working just fine until the bulb went out suddenly . It wasn't while watching it - it was between viewings. The bulb was just as bright and clear as ever until it failed. It just didn't come on one day. It only had 1536 hours on it and that bulb is supposed to last about 4000 hours. It's ceiling mounted with no obstructions. The intake filter was not clogged, just a light dusting.


Well, I didn't budget for a new lamp so I took some time off from the projector and eventually ordered a v13h010l49 bulb from A Matter of Fax for about $146. 


It came in the other day and replacing the bulb was very simple. I powered on the projector and immediately noticed it was very, very dim. I waited for it to warm up and get brighter, but it never did. While it was on a black screen, I put my eye right up to the lens and noticed many little rainbow dots all over. I'm guessing this was just dust somewhere in the works.

 

I watched the screen for a bit and I noticed the projector would often make shifting noises. On the screen it looked like there were some kind of filters moving up and down in sync with the noises. It's like there was a miniature projectionist in there trying out some full-screen sepia tones. Unfortunately he's not tall enough to cover the entire screen - across the very top of the screen, maybe 5% of it, there is a bright spot that looks just about what it *should* look like. 

 

I called a local repair shop that said the description of my problem sounds like I have a bad optical engine. They said that could be an expensive fix but they'd take a look for $19. 

 

Anyway, what do you think is going on here? Is an optical engine something I can replace on my own? I am fairly good at electronics repair but I do have limits. I have tried to find this part online but haven't had any luck. I've also sent emails to A Matter of Fax and Epson with questions.


Here's the projector in situ:  

http://imgur.com/5uKk1uh.jpg%5B/URL%5D


Just for the heck of it here's a picture of the old bulb:  

http://imgur.com/xaZx0jo.jpg%5B/URL%5D


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diat150*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24096059
> 
> 
> is there any consensus on aftermarket bulbs? I tried the $45 bulb from amazon but it wasnt nearly as bright as the OEM bulbs and it made my projector beep. Are there any decent aftermarket bulbs available or should I just stick with the OEM?


 

I bought the $56 Generic Replacement lamp "by Genie" from Amazon a couple weeks ago and couldn't be happier. It's also for sale on eBay for a little less, but I have Prime so got it from Amazon. I researched other lamps, and read the reviews on Amazon, but this one seemed to have the best reviews. For $56 I though it was worth a shot, I'll see how many hours I get out of it. I took some photos of both lamps together. It's nearly impossible to tell the difference. I can post them if anyone is interested.

 

I purchased my 8350 in April of 2012 from Projector People as a refurb unit. I'm not sure if I just got lucky, but the convergence was and is excellent, and everything else was great. I had 2850 hours on the original bulb. A few months ago, I could start to detect some dimming. I always ran the projector on eco mode, so I bumped it up to the next level. It wasn't long before the picture just didn't seem right. From what I experienced, the dimming of the bulb not only resulted in a darker picture, but less contrast, colors being off, and poorer detail. I suppose this all makes sense.

 

There's no way I can say for sure that this replacement bulb is as bright as the original, but it sure seems to be. It's really a revelation putting a new bulb in! As mentioned in Lord of the Rings, darkness has a way of creeping up on you.

 

Edit: Forgot to mention a couple things. I did call Epson to see if I could get a replacement bulb since the projector's still under warranty. No such luck. After a few days on the bulb, I popped in my WOW disc to recalibrate the settings. I was surprised that all the major settings were essentially the same as the original bulb, only 1 step either direction at most. Not sure, but I think this would indicate the replacement bulb has very similar, if not the same properties as the original.


----------



## Alexdad54

Hi all, I'm currently on my fourth 8350, the first had a worsening auto-iris problem, the second arrived damaged due to poor packaging, the third had convergence issues and large green dust blobs and now here we are with the fourth.

It seems perfect except when I have a fully black screen, there is a faint blue blob on the bottom and and two fainter green and blue blobs on the left side. They are very faint and don't show up when watching a film,. etc. The convergence seems OK.

I'm tempted to send it back but the odds of getting another one with no issues seem at best 50/50.

My question is whether the blue blobs are in fact dust-related or are they indicative of something else? I've checked this thread but there seems to be no definitive answer given.

If dust-related I could attempt the cleaning procedure described earlier in this thread but if it's something else then back it goes.....

All suggestions/opinions/advice appreciated.


----------



## pacemaker

anybody got details of the actual bulb?

should be replaceable in the original housing at a fraction of the cost


----------



## pagan97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alexdad54*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24132411
> 
> 
> Hi all, I'm currently on my fourth 8350, the first had a worsening auto-iris problem, the second arrived damaged due to poor packaging, the third had convergence issues and large green dust blobs and now here we are with the fourth.
> 
> It seems perfect except when I have a fully black screen, there is a faint blue blob on the bottom and and two fainter green and blue blobs on the left side. They are very faint and don't show up when watching a film,. etc. The convergence seems OK.
> 
> I'm tempted to send it back but the odds of getting another one with no issues seem at best 50/50.
> 
> My question is whether the blue blobs are in fact dust-related or are they indicative of something else? I've checked this thread but there seems to be no definitive answer given.
> 
> If dust-related I could attempt the cleaning procedure described earlier in this thread but if it's something else then back it goes.....
> 
> All suggestions/opinions/advice appreciated.


Sounds like dust blobs to me. Green on the green LCD panel and blue on the blue LCD panel. I would go for the cleaning procedure mentioned on an earlier post, with pictures. Just did mine using this method and it worked well. I still have a light coating on the green , so I would spray the canister longer next time and hit the green one first and last. Anyways, it was a little nerve wracking at first, but it did work out well. Just going slow and methodical, and only touching the inside with the spray nozzle. Can upright as possible and test spray first to clear fluid and you should be fine. I have built many computers, and this was not much different. Way better than riding the Epson Refurb roulette wheel!


----------



## Alexdad54

Thanks for the info and advice, much appreciated! I've built computers so you've given me more confidence that I could do this.

Unfortunately, tonight, in turning it on for perhaps only the 12th time since I received it last week, it gave me the dreaded auto-iris error! I'll be calling on the 2nd to get another (5th!) one, as getting this error is a no-deal. It took months on my first machine for that error to show up.

If the next one has only (and only) dust blobs, I'll deal with that myself as per your suggestion but bad convergence and auto-iris errors are not acceptable.


----------



## pagan97

Wow, bummer! Sorry to hear that! Bad way to start the year. Good luck with the next unit! Glad the post helped , sorta...


----------



## Theuser

I have had an 8350 for almost three years now. I have cleaned dust successfully on two occasions and had tried three, it was not until I read these instructions someone else was kind enough to post that I was successful on the latter two attempts.


A couple of tips, stand the projector up or have someone hold it so you can keep the can of air vertical and put the straw into the opening around the ribbons move it around carefully don't be shy with the amount of air you use. When you are putting your projector cover back together blow out the filter(I use a compressor for that away from the projector) or replace it. Like the original poster said "All Gone"


Good Luck!









*"After another couple of goes I've had success getting rid of the dust blobs. The trick is to get the air into the right spot. Follow the ribbons from the circuit board down through the slots and right inside to where they presumably join the top of the LCD panels. You need to get the air right inside as far as you can. I had a bad blue dust blob and some big green ones and all gone".*


----------



## Alexdad54

Well, after talking to the level 2 rep, they've opted for sending me a brand new 8350 from the US (I'm in Canada). Hopefully this one won't have any issues.

Thanks again for these recent posts, if dust blobs do show up, I can now deal with them but if another auto-iris error occurred would another story....


----------



## elmalloc

I just purchased an Epson 8350 from Best Buy. I will test it tonight, I'm just hoping for good convergence. My 6 year old Samsung 55" HDTV gave out....can't wait to game on the Epson if it works (lol).


I'm 3/4th through Wind Waker HD on Wii-U and I need to finish it


----------



## Hockey9

New non-eom bulb introduces a moving horizontal bar.


8350 owner here..the factory bulb went out on me with 1350 hrs. I got sticker shock with seeing that the replacement bulb was $250. Being a amazon prime member, I thought that I would opt for a less expensive non-eom bulb for approx $65 from lamp genie.


Install went great and the projector sprung back to life..now I have an issue that I have not seen before..there seems to be a moving faint horizontal blob that is reproducible if you replay TiVo for instance..I did not have that before the bulb went out . It seems digital cause the pattern of the blob is predictable if you back up and play again. I guess my next test will be to try another source ..could this be bulb related?


I will try to grab a screen shot if that will help.


Opinions? Ideas ?


update:

The one other thing that I have changed other than the bulb is that moved to hdmi 1..since it is unprotected, i blew some air in both ports and the cable and switched to the previous hdmi 2.. It is still doing it. Dang..


----------



## elmalloc

I heard the non oem bulb life is very low, that is all I know about it.


----------



## joeags

I also purchased the genie lamps replacement, albeit at $62 back in November. I had 1136 hours on my projector over 2.5 years. I also see the lamp as being comparable in brightness to the original, but can't be certain. No beeps or any other sounds from the projector. Best I can say is I am pleased with it, would recommend it at this point, and hope for it to last a decent length of time past the 150 day warranty.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24102676
> 
> 
> I bought the $56 Generic Replacement lamp "by Genie" from Amazon a couple weeks ago and couldn't be happier. It's also for sale on eBay for a little less, but I have Prime so got it from Amazon. I researched other lamps, and read the reviews on Amazon, but this one seemed to have the best reviews. For $56 I though it was worth a shot, I'll see how many hours I get out of it. I took some photos of both lamps together. It's nearly impossible to tell the difference. I can post them if anyone is interested.
> 
> 
> I purchased my 8350 in April of 2012 from Projector People as a refurb unit. I'm not sure if I just got lucky, but the convergence was and is excellent, and everything else was great. I had 2850 hours on the original bulb. A few months ago, I could start to detect some dimming. I always ran the projector on eco mode, so I bumped it up to the next level. It wasn't long before the picture just didn't seem right. From what I experienced, the dimming of the bulb not only resulted in a darker picture, but less contrast, colors being off, and poorer detail. I suppose this all makes sense.
> 
> 
> There's no way I can say for sure that this replacement bulb is as bright as the original, but it sure seems to be. It's really a revelation putting a new bulb in! As mentioned in Lord of the Rings, darkness has a way of creeping up on you.
> 
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention a couple things. I did call Epson to see if I could get a replacement bulb since the projector's still under warranty. No such luck. After a few days on the bulb, I popped in my WOW disc to recalibrate the settings. I was surprised that all the major settings were essentially the same as the original bulb, only 1 step either direction at most. Not sure, but I think this would indicate the replacement bulb has very similar, if not the same properties as the original.


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24172410
> 
> 
> I also purchased the genie lamps replacement, albeit at $62 back in November. I had 1136 hours on my projector over 2.5 years. I also see the lamp as being comparable in brightness to the original, but can't be certain. No beeps or any other sounds from the projector. Best I can say is I am pleased with it, would recommend it at this point, and hope for it to last a decent length of time past the 150 day warranty.


 



Same here. I haven't checked my hours lately, but it must be close to 300, with the holidays and kids being home from school. No difference in output as far as I can tell. I bought this lamp for a couple reasons. First, I wasn't about to pay the $300 Epson is asking. Second, I saw a lot of people writing posts asking about these non-OEM lamps, but few takers. Now there are a couple of us on record as having bought a specific brand, and I will for one, remain on record as to how the lamp progresses.


----------



## dsmguy3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24178302
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24172410
> 
> 
> I also purchased the genie lamps replacement, albeit at $62 back in November. I had 1136 hours on my projector over 2.5 years. I also see the lamp as being comparable in brightness to the original, but can't be certain. No beeps or any other sounds from the projector. Best I can say is I am pleased with it, would recommend it at this point, and hope for it to last a decent length of time past the 150 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I haven't checked my hours lately, but it must be close to 300, with the holidays and kids being home from school. No difference in output as far as I can tell. I bought this lamp for a couple reasons. First, I wasn't about to pay the $300 Epson is asking. Second, I saw a lot of people writing posts asking about these non-OEM lamps, but few takers. Now there are a couple of us on record as having bought a specific brand, and I will for one, remain on record as to how the lamp progresses.
Click to expand...


Can you please post a link to the sellers store? I am in the market for a bulb myself.


----------



## dsmguy3

Nevermind

I put on my big boy pants and found it!!!

Is this correct?
Here!!!


----------



## curtlots

That is it!


----------



## j-bo

Funny... Come on here for the first time in a few YEARS...and I see quite a few are replacing Epson lamps.


My hours were 3280 for my replacement Epson lamp they warrantied.


I too went with the genie lamp from Amazon. Got here very quickly too, glad for that.


Now my issue..


I replaced the lamp last night and I have a blue tint to the overall picture and whites aren't white, they have a blue "tinge" to them.


I had to up some settings pretty far to get the few last days out of the OEM lamp and forgot to write down my original settings.


I went back to Arts settings.. and still have the blueish "tinge". I tried playing with tint.. then rgb stuff and..still, not sure what I was doing so went back to original Art settings.


So.. what could it be? I'm thinking of resetting the Genie lamp to see if it that will work.


Any other things I can try?


----------



## dsmguy3

Here is my new replacement Genie lamp on the right and the OEM is on the Left in all pics.

The bulb looks to be just about exactly the same as the OEM bulb.

The only difference I can tell is in the wires. On the last two pictures in the first set you can see the OEM on the left has matte or flat colored wires and the Genie lamp on the right appears to be a bit more "shiny".

( I am well aware that the color of the wires has no impact on the overall performance of the bulb)


 
 
 
 
 




Here are a few of the Lamp in action.

I took the pics with my phone so sorry for the quality.

The first two are in ECO mode and the second are Normal.


----------



## curtlots

Nice job!


So do you feel it's equal in brightness to your memory of the original bulb? So far, I'm totally happy with mine.


----------



## dsmguy3

To my recollection i think I may be as good.


Also I decided to give Epson another shot and called them about a free replacement. I guess I got the right guy this time as they are sending another bulb as my onetime "courtesy" replacement. So I will have one spare on hand for free!!!


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24220559
> 
> 
> Nice job!
> 
> 
> So do you feel it's equal in brightness to your memory of the original bulb? So far, I'm totally happy with mine.



My genie lamp is not as bright. However, I'm at 140" at 17' throw too. I ran the OEM on eco mode and natural for along time, then ran on eco and living room mode. With the genie, I have to run on normal mode and living room mode, so I'll get or should get less hours on this genie lamp.


I had to adjust the blue and green out of the picture, the trouble I was having in my prior post and after we have used it for about 25 hours now, it is def. a usable lamp.


I def. would buy another genie as the price is right. If we can get 1500 hours out of this, I'll be extremely happy too. Anyone have long hours on their genie lamp yet?


----------



## DaddyLongLegs79

HI folks,


My warranty on my 8350 is just about up. I recently replaced, under said warranty, my 8350 due to auto iris issues about ~10% of the time when turning it on. The replacement (refurb)unit they just sent me gets auto-iris errors about 50% of the times that I turn on the pj. This is the 5th unit they have replaced for auto iris errors. It seems that everyone got a little worse in terms of this error frequency. This is sad, and poses questions.
When they send me a refurb, what kind of life can I expect on the bulbs? DO they put new bulbs in all the refurbs being sent out? Or am I just randomly going to get to use whatever is left of the bulb, which could vary a LOT from one refurb to another?
What can I do to get escalated and get some more helpful customer support? Can I get a NEW unit rather than a refurb because of the frequent hassles?
What adivice can you offer about being in this situation - towards the end of my warranty?


Thanks!










-Peter


----------



## elmalloc

This projector is really quite awesome, I tweaked dynamic mode a bit and lowered it's brightness level (-15ish) - and now with ambient light it produces a very respectable image for gaming. Contrast Ratio looks great.


----------



## the-pred

I have noticed lately when watching sports that the score bar seems to be burning into the screen. I also noticed when playing Xbox One that the little Xbox symbol is faintly still there in top right corner when I switch over to watch TV. I did not know it was possible to get burn in on a projector. Any advise?


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24262980
> 
> 
> I have noticed lately when watching sports that the score bar seems to be burning into the screen. I also noticed when playing Xbox One that the little Xbox symbol is faintly still there in top right corner when I switch over to watch TV. I did not know it was possible to get burn in on a projector. Any advise?



It's not burn in like plasma sets - but image persistent or retention. Sometimes it can be cured, sometimes not.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the-pred*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24262980
> 
> 
> I have noticed lately when watching sports that the score bar seems to be burning into the screen. I also noticed when playing Xbox One that the little Xbox symbol is faintly still there in top right corner when I switch over to watch TV. I did not know it was possible to get burn in on a projector. Any advise?


Hopefully not Burn-In but IR.

 

Try running some high-contrast "burn-in slides" . That's how I erased it from my Dell IPS-LCD. Yes, surprised to see it then also.


----------



## elmalloc

Someone is playing a voracious amount of Xbox.


----------



## pagan97

Anyone know where i can buy a dust cover for my shelf residing 8350? Been looking for awhile now, bit I cannot seem to find one....weird huh?


----------



## skel84


Hi everyone,

 

i noticed something weird on the projected image of the vpr, here is some pics:

 



 



 



 

Can you see the purple-ish stain on the right and green-ish stain on the top left?

does anyone have any idea what it could be?

 

Thanks!


----------



## raynist




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skel84*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24281181
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> i noticed something weird on the projected image of the vpr, here is some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see the purple-ish stain on the right and green-ish stain on the top left?
> 
> does anyone have any idea what it could be?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have a pinkish stain on the left side of my image. Goes all the way from top to bottom, about 4-6 inches wide. Has been there since the beginning. I only notice it on white backgrounds.


----------



## jeepster360

OK, it's been a long time since I looked into projectors. My Panny ae900u just died and the super bowl is Sunday. I wanted to up grade to the 5030 but I just can't swing that much $$$ right now. I need the lens shift & zoom for my back shelf set up that I have now. Is the 8350 still a good value? I'm sure it will be a step up from the 900u.

The panny has smooth screen. I sit 10ft back from a 100in diy doable board screen. Will screen door be a problem? That's my biggest concern I guess. That's why I got the panny in the first place. What do you guys think? Best Buy have it in stock was going to buy to marrow if possible.


Thanks


John


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeepster360*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24290812
> 
> 
> OK, it's been a long time since I looked into projectors. My Lanny ae900u just died and the super bowl is Sunday. I wanted to up grade to the 5030 but I just can't swing that much $$$ right now. I need the lens shift & zoom for my back shelf set up that I have now. Is the 8350 still a good value? I'm sure it will be a step up from the 900u.
> 
> The panny has smooth screen. I sit 10ft back from a 100in diy doable board screen. Will screen door be a problem? That's my biggest concern I guess. That's why I got the panny in the first place. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



John:


I just got this projector over the Christmas holidays. It is INCREDIBLE. It is my first projector and I absolutely love it. On quality blu rays such as Saturday Night Fever and Dr. No, it is a phenomenal experience and I still cannot comprehend how I am able to generate such an incredible picture for the price of $1299.


I have not seen any screen door effect and I sit very close to the screen. I have the exact same screen size as yours (100 inch screen). I like sitting exactly 100 inches away. (8 feet, 4 inches).


The 8350 represents a PHENOMENAL value. With me sitting 100 inches away from my 100 inch screen, it is like having an enormous IMAX theater in my house. I will never go back to viewing movies on a regular tv in my house again. The level and breath of detail in that image is incredible.


One recommendation: If you buy this projector you should use the Dynamic mode at all times if you don't have a completely dark room. By completely dark I mean several things. When you turn off all the lights and turn off the projector, you cannot see your hands in front of your face. Also, your ceiling, walls, and floor are black or dark. Having light or white ceilings, walls, and floors will wash out the image even if you dont have any lights in the room. Dynamic mode helps greatly in countering this.


----------



## jeepster360

Thank you for the quick reply. Glad to see you like the 8350. My room is light controlled with dark forest green walls & brownish carpet. You are sitting closer than I do so it sounds like screen door isn't as much of a problem as it used to be with LCD. 1080p helps out i'm sure. The panny is 720p. I don't normally like the dynamic modes but for sport with some lights on it should work well. The panny doesn't have the light output this 8350 has.


Keep enjoying you new projector......you will never be able to go small again!!


John


----------



## jeepster360

I'm off to buy the 8350. Should be back tonight. I have to drive over 100miles to the best buy in Spokane. Hope I get a good one.


John


----------



## jeepster360

8350 is in place & squared up. The target pattern made it very easy to set to the screen. Fits perfect.


Turned on ESPN to ck motion with a basketball game. Looks good to me! This thing is bright. New bulb helps I'm sure but the panny was never this bright. The colors even look decent in living room mode. Plenty good for sports with some lights on. I have the lamp set to normal to help burn things in & set the lamp. I read somewhere that starting in eco lamp mode isn't the proper way to start out for the first 10 hours or so. Any ideas on that?


My fear about screen door was quickly set to rest. No problem at all on my 100in doable screen. I can't see it past 5-6ft at all. Convergence is off one pixel with red on one side & green on the other. Not a big deal to me. The picture looks sharp & clear…....the panny looked softer for sure. I'm happy so far. If the lamp lasts past 2000hrs I'll be a happy camper. I'm off the enjoy my new toy.


John


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeepster360*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24295260
> 
> 
> 8350 is in place & squared up. The target pattern made it very easy to set to the screen. Fits perfect.
> 
> 
> Turned on ESPN to ck motion with a basketball game. Looks good to me! This thing is bright. New bulb helps I'm sure but the panny was never this bright. The colors even look decent in living room mode. Plenty good for sports with some lights on. I have the lamp set to normal to help burn things in & set the lamp. I read somewhere that starting in eco lamp mode isn't the proper way to start out for the first 10 hours or so. Any ideas on that?
> 
> 
> My fear about screen door was quickly set to rest. No problem at all on my 100in doable screen. I can't see it past 5-6ft at all. Convergence is off one pixel with red on one side & green on the other. Not a big deal to me. The picture looks sharp & clear…....the panny looked softer for sure. I'm happy so far. If the lamp lasts past 2000hrs I'll be a happy camper. I'm off the enjoy my new toy.
> 
> 
> John




Great that you got your projector.


Do you have a Blu Ray player hooked up via HDMI cable to your projector? If so, watch some blu rays. High quality Blu rays should look even better than ESPN. Some recommendations for blu rays that I have are Dr. No and Saturday Night Fever. They both look awesome with Epson 8350 on Dynamic mode with 100 inch screen and you sitting 100 inches away. IMAX good.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeepster360*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24295260
> 
> 
> 8350 is in place & squared up. The target pattern made it very easy to set to the screen. Fits perfect.
> 
> 
> Turned on ESPN to ck motion with a basketball game. Looks good to me! This thing is bright. New bulb helps I'm sure but the panny was never this bright. The colors even look decent in living room mode. Plenty good for sports with some lights on. I have the lamp set to normal to help burn things in & set the lamp. I read somewhere that starting in eco lamp mode isn't the proper way to start out for the first 10 hours or so. Any ideas on that?
> 
> 
> My fear about screen door was quickly set to rest. No problem at all on my 100in doable screen. I can't see it past 5-6ft at all. Convergence is off one pixel with red on one side & green on the other. Not a big deal to me. The picture looks sharp & clear…....the panny looked softer for sure. I'm happy so far. If the lamp lasts past 2000hrs I'll be a happy camper. I'm off the enjoy my new toy.
> 
> 
> John



I have to use this target pattern. What color is the background on that target pattern? Also, the remote control has a "pattern" buttom or something like that right?


----------



## jeepster360

Yes the pattern button on the remote.......bottom left key. The background is blue.


I do have blu ray,HDMI ect. I watched pacific rim last night. The move was so,so but the picture was very good....awesome even. This 8350 is a good deal.


John


----------



## nimda

Hello,

I'm looking to upgrade my aging Optoma HD70 but didn't want to break the bank (less than $1500). I had originally planned on just getting the newest DLP from Optoma but because I have a ceiling fan in the middle of my room I need a longer throw around 15' for a 100" screen and that seems to be getting harder to find. I've also heard LCD has come along way with regards to contrast ratio.


I was first looking at the Epson 8700 which appeared to be using the LCD panels from the more expensive UB series but I saw that was discontinued. On Epson's site they link directly to the 8350 as a replacement. Does anyone know if the 8350 also uses the LCD panels from the UB series? I also noticed this came out in 2010 and there doesn't seem to be a newer replacement from Epson. I was also hoping to get 3D included since I'm buying new. I looked at the 3020 but saw numerous complaints of a noisy iris and I'm drawn more to the inky blacks than other bells and whistles.


I appreciate your time.


----------



## jeepster360

That's a big reason I chose the 8350.....the zoom range & lens shift. I really wanted the 5030 but I couldn't swing that much cash. For me the 8350 was a step up from a panny ae900u. I like the picture a lot. It looks very good but the blacks will not blow you away. The 8350 uses the C2fine panels but this is a step down from the UB style projectors. Don't get me wrong, the 8350 looks great. Pacific Rim has a lot of dark content and looked amazing to my eyes but it has limitations on blacks. On the other hand there are almost no limitations on placement flexibility.


I have never seen an HD70 so I can't compare them directly. I have only owned LCD. The 8350 is worth the price, that's about all I can say I guess.


John


----------



## DaddyLongLegs79

When Epson support send me a refurb, what kind of life can I expect on the bulbs?


Do they put new bulbs in all the refurbs being sent out? Or am I just randomly going to get to use whatever is left of the bulb, which could vary a LOT from one refurb to another?


----------



## pd47


My bulb recently went out (1500 hours) and I replaced it.  I noticed right away that the color is now off for half my image.  The bottom half appeared to have a "redder" tint to it.  Could this be a function of the replacement bulb?  I originally thought "maybe this is the dust blob thing that everyone keeps talking about" however I did some searching and found pictures of actual dust blobs and this clearly isn't it.  I read the post over here  http://www.avsforum.com/t/572889/attention-lcd-owners-fix-your-color-uniformity-problems-by-cleaning and the pictures posted match mine (though they had a horizontal issue where as mine is vertical).  Is this the same thing?  What does cleaning a polarizer on an 8350 entail, and is that the same thing that is being done by the "dust blob" cleaning instructions posted here  http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200_100#post_22130851 ?  To show you what I'm seeing I took a picture while projecting a completely white background - however it shows up in any lighter color and is definitely noticeable in casual watching (by everyone but my wife, go figure).  The bottom has that reddish tint and is REALLY bothersome.


----------



## pd47




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaddyLongLegs79*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24321873
> 
> 
> When Epson support send me a refurb, what kind of life can I expect on the bulbs?
> 
> 
> Do they put new bulbs in all the refurbs being sent out? Or am I just randomly going to get to use whatever is left of the bulb, which could vary a LOT from one refurb to another?


They will send it out with a new bulb.  From what I've read you should get better life so long as the bulb is from their "new" batch of bulbs and you'll get closer to the advertised 4000 hours of life (assuming that before you didn't get close to that as many owners didn't, though, many did).


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24322800
> 
> 
> My bulb recently went out (1500 hours) and I replaced it.  I noticed right away that the color is now off for half my image.  The bottom half appeared to have a "redder" tint to it.  Could this be a function of the replacement bulb?    The bottom has that reddish tint and is REALLY bothersome.



Although replacing a lamp shouldn't cause this problem sometimes a new brighter lamp will make it more apparent. Put the old lamp back in the projector - can you see the pink on the screen if you look hard?


----------



## pd47


I kinda thought that it was probably like this but dimness was causing me to not notice before, and obviously replacing something causes me to more critically assess.  Unfortunately the last bulb is dead so I can't put it back in and test.  I was hoping to contact Epson and get a new one since it only had 1500 hours on it, however I've had the projector for about 2.5 years so they wouldn't hook me up.


----------



## pd47


Well - I figured without a response I'd at least open it up and clean off the RGB screens to see if that would help make a difference.  Unfortunately not.  I've read that there are supposed to be 6 panels (2 for each color) on LCD projectors, but I only know of these three and couldn't find any others.  Do these things have 3 more or is this it?  Any other suggestions?  At this point I'm thinking a repair call is going to have to be made, I'm assuming to replace the polarizers due to burn in.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24322800
> 
> 
> My bulb recently went out (1500 hours) and I replaced it.  I noticed right away that the color is now off for half my image.  The bottom half appeared to have a "redder" tint to it.  Could this be a function of the replacement bulb?  I originally thought "maybe this is the dust blob thing that everyone keeps talking about" however I did some searching and found pictures of actual dust blobs and this clearly isn't it.  I read the post over here  http://www.avsforum.com/t/572889/attention-lcd-owners-fix-your-color-uniformity-problems-by-cleaning and the pictures posted match mine (though they had a horizontal issue where as mine is vertical).  Is this the same thing?  What does cleaning a polarizer on an 8350 entail, and is that the same thing that is being done by the "dust blob" cleaning instructions posted here  http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200_100#post_22130851 ?  To show you what I'm seeing I took a picture while projecting a completely white background - however it shows up in any lighter color and is definitely noticeable in casual watching (by everyone but my wife, go figure).  The bottom has that reddish tint and is REALLY bothersome.



How do you project a totally white image on the screen with the Epson 8350? Is this a test pattern available thru the use of a button on the remote or the projector?


----------



## mike734

Don't let this happen to you.


So my 13 year old like to play Minecraft on the PS3 which is hooked up to my 8350. I generally don't let them play games on it because I don't want to wear out the bulb any sooner than necessary. Anyway I relented and let her play a few days ago. Today my older, more responsible son wanter to play on it but couldn't get the projector to come on. When I investigated I found the flashing red bulb light. My bulb was history. What happened? How did my daughter blow the bulb? The mystery is solved


I have all my theater devices plugged in to a backup power supply. When My daughter turned off the system she still heard noises (fans) so she turned off the power switch on the UPS! That must have done it. When I check the bulb I found it shattered. So now I'm in the market for a bulb. I have a question. Should I buy a completely new housing with a new bulb for $260? Or should I just get the bulb from someplace like Best Buy for $60 and use the old housing? It seems rather straight forward to just replace the bulb and save money. What do you all think?


----------



## pd47




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlos_*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24334642
> 
> 
> 
> How do you project a totally white image on the screen with the Epson 8350? Is this a test pattern available thru the use of a button on the remote or the projector?


I googled "white" and chose an image, zoomed in and set my browser to presentation mode and plugged my laptop in to the HDMI port on the projector.  Doing this I could also pull up various other colors and shades and see the differences on those as well.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24334761
> 
> Don't let this happen to you.
> 
> 
> So my 13 year old like to play Minecraft on the PS3 which is hooked up to my 8350. I generally don't let them play games on it because I don't want to wear out the bulb any sooner than necessary. Anyway I relented and let her play a few days ago. Today my older, more responsible son wanter to play on it but couldn't get the projector to come on. When I investigated I found the flashing red bulb light. My bulb was history. What happened? How did my daughter blow the bulb? The mystery is solved
> 
> 
> I have all my theater devices plugged in to a backup power supply. When My daughter turned off the system she still heard noises (fans) so she turned off the power switch on the UPS! That must have done it. When I check the bulb I found it shattered. So now I'm in the market for a bulb. I have a question. Should I buy a completely new housing with a new bulb for $260? Or should I just get the bulb from someplace like Best Buy for $60 and use the old housing? It seems rather straight forward to just replace the bulb and save money. What do you all think?



Lesson learned. Accidents happen.


One of the frequent questions posted on this forum - should I buy an OEM lamp or a generic clone bulb replacement? The answer you're always better off with an original OEM lamp.


Provantage sells the lamp for $223.

http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~7DYM905T.htm 


But that's still too much and you want a cheaper solution? Most comments on PureGlare (the usual reseller on Best Buy) are negative. Pureglare is sometimes confused with Pureland Supply which also sells aftermarket lamps - the difference being the brand of bulb used. If you're going with something other than the original OEM lamp you want to look for a replacement that uses the original OSRAM bulb. This gives you the best chance of getting something that will not fail prematurely.

https://www.purelandsupply.com/v13h010l49-epson-projector-lamp.html 


$185 still too much? Again the same advice - make sure the bulb is a genuine OSRAM bulb for best chance of success.

http://www.projectorquest.com/v13h010l49.html 


Here's a link to an earlier related post in this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23372737 


Good luck on your decision.


----------



## PappaSmurf

How old is the unit. Even if it is pass the bulb warranty from Epson they will most likely send you another bulb if its not too old. Mine died 2 months before the 2 year warranty was up. Contacted them via their website they asked a few q's and said a one time exception was being made and new bulb arrived UPS 2 wks later...


----------



## mike734

The question remains. Can one save by buying JUST the bulb and not the whole housing? Also, What about the lens associated with the housing? How important is that lens for image quality?


----------



## elmalloc

To me it's a waste of money to not get the correct replacement part. It will likely 1) not work 2) not work as well 3) not last as long. Why do this?


----------



## mike734

I don't know. I find price is not all that great an indicator of quality these days. Nobody has addresses this lens question. I wonder if it is a critical part of the equation or just a simple way to diffuse the light.


----------



## kehakas

I want to get rid of some dust. It appears against light backgrounds as out-of-focus purple blobs. I can use the focus ring to focus on the dust instead of the picture, and when I do this, I can clearly see purple and cyan dust specks, which according to my research corresponds with green and red. As I understand it, this dust exists on the "polarizers." I've searched high and low for instructions on how to clean this, but all I can find is xccxxx's instructions on cleaning up dust blobs near the ribbons, which seem to be a separate issue, as those appear against dark backgrounds, and you shouldn't be able to focus on them with the focus ring. (I actually have a couple green dust blobs but I'm not worried about those.)


Is it gonna be way easier just to find instructions and do this myself, instead of dealing w/ customer service? And most importantly, if anyone can direct me to instructions, I would be grateful. Closest thing I can find is for another model:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/572889/attention-lcd-owners-fix-your-color-uniformity-problems-by-cleaning 


Thanks for your time.


----------



## Carlos_




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24340780
> 
> 
> I want to get rid of some dust. It appears against light backgrounds as out-of-focus purple blobs. I can use the focus ring to focus on the dust instead of the picture, and when I do this, I can clearly see purple and cyan dust specks, which according to my research corresponds with green and red. As I understand it, this dust exists on the "polarizers." I've searched high and low for instructions on how to clean this, but all I can find is xccxxx's instructions on cleaning up dust blobs near the ribbons, which seem to be a separate issue, as those appear against dark backgrounds, and you shouldn't be able to focus on them with the focus ring. (I actually have a couple green dust blobs but I'm not worried about those.)
> 
> 
> Is it gonna be way easier just to find instructions and do this myself, instead of dealing w/ customer service? And most importantly, if anyone can direct me to instructions, I would be grateful. Closest thing I can find is for another model:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/572889/attention-lcd-owners-fix-your-color-uniformity-problems-by-cleaning
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time.


\


Kehakas:


That is a lot of dust. Several questions?


1) Did you buy this projector new or used?


2) How many hours do you have on the bulb and have you ever changed the bulb?


3) When you first noticed the problem, did only one dust particle appear or did multiple dust particles appear when you first noticed the problem?


----------



## pd47


kehakas - That red vertical streak that you have looks very similar to the red horizontal streak I had (see 1 or 2 pages prior in this thread).  I opened up my projector and cleaned the LCD screens as described in the "blob" thread and thought I'd look for polarizers similar to what was shown in the thread you linked.  I didn't see anything in the projector that resembled.  Maybe it's in there somewhere but I didn't want to rip the projector completely apart.  Epson customer service has been less than helpful with me so I've taken it to a local repair shop to get a diagnosis from them before I determine next steps.  (note:   I'm out of warranty and the closest Epson certified place is a couple hours away).


----------



## pd47


Just got back the diagnostics.  Light engine needs to be replaced in my 8350.  And for that cost it means I'm basically in the market for a new projector.  Wish I would never have noticed the red tint in the image.  Shopping time I guess.  I've been doing some reading and, remarkably, 4 years into the life of these things they're still the top rated in their price range, and that just blows my mind.  Based on how quickly mine went out (1350 hours on the clock) and the way Epson blew me off, I don't think I'll be doing an Epson replacement.


----------



## mcmountainman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24232038
> 
> 
> My genie lamp is not as bright. However, I'm at 140" at 17' throw too. I ran the OEM on eco mode and natural for along time, then ran on eco and living room mode. With the genie, I have to run on normal mode and living room mode, so I'll get or should get less hours on this genie lamp.
> 
> 
> I had to adjust the blue and green out of the picture, the trouble I was having in my prior post and after we have used it for about 25 hours now, it is def. a usable lamp.
> 
> 
> I def. would buy another genie as the price is right. If we can get 1500 hours out of this, I'll be extremely happy too. Anyone have long hours on their genie lamp yet?





Well buyer beware I just ordered one of these from Amazon and it arrived improperly packed in the Styrofoam and had pieces broken inside the lamp ! Luckily Amazon has a great return policy so no harm done . I broke down and bought an original epson bulb

Yeah it cost a LOT more but hey figure it wasnt worth the risk ordering a another Genie lamp - if they cant even pack them correctly lord knows how the lamp is actually constructed ! Hope you have better luck than I did if you order one .


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24340780
> 
> 
> I want to get rid of some dust. It appears against light backgrounds as out-of-focus purple blobs. I can use the focus ring to focus on the dust instead of the picture, and when I do this, I can clearly see purple and cyan dust specks, which according to my research corresponds with green and red. As I understand it, this dust exists on the "polarizers." I've searched high and low for instructions on how to clean this, but all I can find is xccxxx's instructions on cleaning up dust blobs near the ribbons, which seem to be a separate issue, as those appear against dark backgrounds, and you shouldn't be able to focus on them with the focus ring. (I actually have a couple green dust blobs but I'm not worried about those.)
> 
> 
> Is it gonna be way easier just to find instructions and do this myself, instead of dealing w/ customer service? And most importantly, if anyone can direct me to instructions, I would be grateful. Closest thing I can find is for another model:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/572889/attention-lcd-owners-fix-your-color-uniformity-problems-by-cleaning
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time.


 

Good find. Maybe Panny PT-L300u is 3-LCD projector (just the old 720p version of the tech). Newer 1080p 3-LCD might be different. I don't see anything on Google or You-Tube (but cleaning-video of any make-model with 3-LCD Tech should do).

 

There are Three LCDs, and various other mirrors, panels, and lenses. My guess would be the dust is back toward the LCDs or image creation optics parts (to be able to focus on it like that).

 

The "dust blob" directions in this thread might work ... but to truly clean all parts ... I would think the main/top board would have to be removed to get down to the LCDs and other Primary optics. *I would not attempt this if you have no experience working inside expensive AV electronics*. The parts might be difficult to clean because I don't think you can un-screw anything. It might also be easy to knock parts out of perfect 1-1 pixel alignment. If you can get down to 3-LCD and optics, I would suggest trying first no direct contact and only use clean, low-humidity air.

 

Edit: changed Panny 3-LCD info


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24348447
> 
> 
> 
> Just got back the diagnostics.  Light engine needs to be replaced in my 8350.  And for that cost it means I'm basically in the market for a new projector.  Wish I would never have noticed the red tint in the image.  Shopping time I guess.  I've been doing some reading and, remarkably, 4 years into the life of these things they're still the top rated in their price range, and that just blows my mind.  Based on how quickly mine went out (1350 hours on the clock) and the way Epson blew me off, I don't think I'll be doing an Epson replacement.


 

As a technician with board level skills (and everything lesser) ... and some experience fixing machines and electronics (most, I have no business or training being inside) ... I will say this.

 

The shop is likely full-qualified to diagnose and work on 3-LCD projectors (I don't know) but ... *you never truly know what is wrong with a machine until you actually fix it.* Diagnoses and Estimates (without repairs) is a very tricky thing. We often come in high or major to cover the worst-case scenario. If it works out cheaper or lesser hours ... billing is tech's call to pass to customer or collect a little extra profit (maybe to cover 30-90 day warranty).


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24348447
> 
> 
> 
> Based on how quickly mine went out (1350 hours on the clock) and the way Epson blew me off, I don't think I'll be doing an Epson replacement.


 

Not sure how far out-of-warranty you were, but yes ... you would think they might have offered a "good faith repair" or heavy discount on refurb.

 

My guess is that their warranty costs are high keeping the ones in the field running. There are likely thousands in the field, but with this forum as an indicator ... we see they are fairly prone to dust and alignment issues (some probably from shipping trips and handling). They seem fairly delicate.


----------



## Tesla1856


I haven't really found anything tagged "3LCD" but I think it would be similar to these. Notice these are not SXRD (a nice advanced Sony version of LCoS) but instead ... 3 transparent LCDs with polarizers.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6YWOfN-Ygs

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgZz9peR-ro

 

As you can see, it's very tricky to re-align everything. However, if you could get down to these parts, maybe you could blow them off without loosening any screws (that hold the LCDs and/or polarizers in place on the core frame).

 

The prism is likely in the "LCD box" but he never really talks about the mirrors:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3LCD

 

... so, this might be a simpler version of the actual Epson 3LCD technology.


----------



## kehakas

Thanks for your responses!


Carlos, here are the answers to your questions:


1. new

2. this is my second bulb, it's north of 1,000 hours

3. I'm pretty sure I've been able to focus on many dust specks for quite some time.


Frankly, I've decided that I'm gonna live with it for now. It screws up uniformity on a pure white screen, but I don't notice anything wrong during normal viewing. pd47, I feel silly that I didn't find your post on the previous page. Looks like we definitely have the same problem. Thanks for the info, Tesla!


----------



## pd47


Called Epson.  Told them I'm 5 months out of warranty but that my projector light engine and bulb both died at 1350 hours, asked if there was anything we could do.  Rep pointed me to the "loyalty" site and said I could buy a 725 or a 750 (720p ... low end projectors), which is quite obviously not an option.  He also offered to sell me, on loyalty discount, an 8350 direct replacement, for the low cost of $1,299.  I see a lot of people praise Epson support because they send out 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 replacement projectors to fix the broken ones in the field - but I'm not seeing it.  I did everything I could to give them the opportunity to make something right here.  I understood I was 5 months out of warranty, told them I wasn't expecting a "freebee" but I wasn't going to pay full price on an 8350 when my experience with the current one was so very...underwhelming.  They decided to not keep me as a customer.  I'll now start shopping for my next thing, and unless Epson can prove they've fixed their obvious QA issues, I will never return to them for any products again.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24353239
> 
> 
> 
> Called Epson.  Told them I'm 5 months out of warranty but that my projector light engine and bulb both died at 1350 hours, asked if there was anything we could do.  Rep pointed me to the "loyalty" site and said I could buy a 725 or a 750 (720p ... low end projectors), which is quite obviously not an option.  He also offered to sell me, on loyalty discount, an 8350 direct replacement, for the low cost of $1,299.  I see a lot of people praise Epson support because they send out 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 replacement projectors to fix the broken ones in the field - but I'm not seeing it.  I did everything I could to give them the opportunity to make something right here.  I understood I was 5 months out of warranty, told them I wasn't expecting a "freebee" but I wasn't going to pay full price on an 8350 when my experience with the current one was so very...underwhelming.  They decided to not keep me as a customer.  I'll now start shopping for my next thing, and unless Epson can prove they've fixed their obvious QA issues, I will never return to them for any products again.


 

Did you happen to purchase on CreditCard that might have extended the 2yr warranty another year?

 

Mine's out of warranty also. I hope it keeps running perfectly, but it sounds like the cards-are-stacked-against us owners. I couldn't imagine having to replace it already (due to cost). I would have to fix it ... not only to retain use but my investment as well.

 

This is probably not a good time, but can I ask you a few questions?

1. When you replaced the bulb, did you use a genuine Epson E-TORL replacement bulb?

 

2. When you opened it for cleaning, did you remove the main/top board and get down to the actual 3LCD light engine parts (transparent LCDs, polarizers, prism, and mirrors)? Or, did you just point the air nozzle down into the board slots like shown in this thread a few pages back?

 

3. Is it still working, except for the original color tint uniformity issues?


----------



## Tesla1856


Epson 3LCD tech as implemented in their projectors.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaiF5TeHC2Y

Epson EX30 that uses true Epson 3LCD tech.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3lcd

 

http://www.3lcd.com/explore/structure.aspx

 

My other recent post showed Sony's version of 3-LCD. In those links, the technician showed polarizing filters sandwiched between the three transparent LCDs and the main prism. Also, no or less mirrors. Light Engine had smaller foot-print.

 

I'm not sure, but I think in the Epson tech, semi-transparent Dichroic mirrors do the polarization instead. More parts to align pixel-perfectly, but Epson seems to think the other advantages are worth it.

 

With everything "open" ... shouldn't be too hard to clean everything with some air.


----------



## pd47




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24354324
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 3LCD tech as implemented in their projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaiF5TeHC2Y
> 
> Epson EX30 that uses true Epson 3LCD tech.
> 
> 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3lcd
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.3lcd.com/explore/structure.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> My other recent post showed Sony's version of 3-LCD. In those links, the technician showed polarizing filters sandwiched between the three transparent LCDs and the main prism. Also, no or less mirrors. Light Engine had smaller foot-print.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure, but I think in the Epson tech, semi-transparent Dichroic mirrors do the polarization instead. More parts to align pixel-perfectly, but Epson seems to think the other advantages are worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> With everything "open" ... shouldn't be too hard to clean everything with some air.


I've googled for how to take these things apart and never really found anything, nice find on the above links.  I wish my italian (or whatever that language is!) was better.  I assume the 8350 looks similar to that when the top board is off.  Since it's not really like I could do anything with what I've got now it may not hurt for me to see if I can yank it all apart and clean it out some more.  I'll have to get some more compressed air if I do it.  Or just use my portable compressor and blow in there...REALLY blow it out 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24353652
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you happen to purchase on CreditCard that might have extended the 2yr warranty another year?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine's out of warranty also. I hope it keeps running perfectly, but it sounds like the cards-are-stacked-against us owners. I couldn't imagine having to replace it already (due to cost). I would have to fix it ... not only to retain use but my investment as well.
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably not a good time, but can I ask you a few questions?
> 
> 1. When you replaced the bulb, did you use a genuine Epson E-TORL replacement bulb?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. When you opened it for cleaning, did you remove the main/top board and get down to the actual 3LCD light engine parts (transparent LCDs, polarizers, prism, and mirrors)? Or, did you just point the air nozzle down into the board slots like shown in this thread a few pages back?
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Is it still working, except for the original color tint uniformity issues?


 

Nearly 2.5 years later, I couldn't tell you if I paid with credit card or bartered goats in exchange!  As for your questions:

 

1 - No.  I got my bulb from pureglare.  When I got it (right before the Super Bowl) everyone I looked at was sold out of the "genuine" bulbs, and pureglare offered the longest warranty on their bulbs I could find (150 days vs 90 or 120 for most others).  Brightness seems to be good, however I obviously couldn't do a side by side with the old one.

 

2.  No - I did the air nozzle down into the board like is recommended for the dust blob issue.  I did try to take the board off and get down in there, but there were *sooooo* many screws and other things plugged into it, I figured it was safer to not do that as I didn't want to break it further.  

 

3.  Yes.  Except for the discoloration in areas it works fine.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24354806
> 
> 
> 
> I've googled for how to take these things apart and never really found anything, nice find on the above links.  I wish my italian (or whatever that language is!) was better.  I assume the 8350 looks similar to that when the top board is off.  Since it's not really like I could do anything with what I've got now it may not hurt for me to see if I can yank it all apart and clean it out some more.  I'll have to get some more compressed air if I do it.  Or just use my portable compressor and blow in there...REALLY blow it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly 2.5 years later, I couldn't tell you if I paid with credit card or bartered goats in exchange!  As for your questions:
> 
> 
> 
> 1 - No.  I got my bulb from pureglare.  When I got it (right before the Super Bowl) everyone I looked at was sold out of the "genuine" bulbs, and pureglare offered the longest warranty on their bulbs I could find (150 days vs 90 or 120 for most others).  Brightness seems to be good, however I obviously couldn't do a side by side with the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 2.  No - I did the air nozzle down into the board like is recommended for the dust blob issue.  I did try to take the board off and get down in there, but there were *sooooo* many screws and other things plugged into it, I figured it was safer to not do that as I didn't want to break it further.
> 
> 
> 
> 3.  Yes.  Except for the discoloration in areas it works fine.


 

I think he's just talking about Auto-Iris. Take digital pics as you work your way down and keep screws/parts organized. If using canned air, be sure to hold it upright. If compressor, drain it first ... air must be dry (as to not damage optics). Maybe read-up on how they clean camera optics.

 

In a way, problem does point to non-standard bulb (because that is what changed recently). For it NOT to be the bulb would mean the uneven tint problem was there all along and you just never noticed it.

 

As long as no core parts in the 3LCD Light Engine come loose, you shouldn't have to re-align anything. With all those mirrors and other parts, it will be difficult.

 

Getting a clue from the Sony vids ... notice that the wrong color showing (on final output) points to the lack or other primary color. The lacking primary color is where the problem is. I think it would be the same here.


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24354806
> 
> 
> I've googled for how to take these things apart and never really found anything, nice find on the above links.  I wish my italian (or whatever that language is!) was better.  I assume the 8350 looks similar to that when the top board is off.  Since it's not really like I could do anything with what I've got now it may not hurt for me to see if I can yank it all apart and clean it out some more.  I'll have to get some more compressed air if I do it.  Or just use my portable compressor and blow in there...REALLY blow it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly 2.5 years later, I couldn't tell you if I paid with credit card or bartered goats in exchange!  As for your questions:
> 
> 
> 1 - No.  I got my bulb from pureglare.  When I got it (right before the Super Bowl) everyone I looked at was sold out of the "genuine" bulbs, and pureglare offered the longest warranty on their bulbs I could find (150 days vs 90 or 120 for most others).  Brightness seems to be good, however I obviously couldn't do a side by side with the old one.
> 
> 
> 2.  No - I did the air nozzle down into the board like is recommended for the dust blob issue.  I did try to take the board off and get down in there, but there were _sooooo_ many screws and other things plugged into it, I figured it was safer to not do that as I didn't want to break it further.
> 
> 
> 3.  Yes.  Except for the discoloration in areas it works fine.



well... I disagree with most of your points lol, I had a great experience with my 8350 and their support however if your leaving you might want to look into the fire sales on the mitsu hc7900dw right now. I just bought one and while not quite as bright, it's a obviously better image being sold at $799 everywhere right now. It's cheap because mitsu quit making projectors however they claim to honor the warranty on these units. Has the ability to add 3D, supports anamorphic if you want it... CFI, better IRIS, sharper.... however pretty limited placement flexibility.


Either way I can understand wanting a problem free unit, I guess DLP's would still offer the sealed light path as well reducing dust blobs. I'm hoping it fills a gap till 4k / LED / laser etc become an option.


----------



## markLA


Hey all-

 

new to post here, but I've read a whole bunch of this thread, for a while.


My 8350 was just under warranty when I replaced it for increasingly bad green dust blobs.


New one looked really great until it slowly seems to be starting to show signs of new a dust blob, although in a different location on screen. Great. I even kept a nice antidust cover over this new one when not in use, which obviously hasn't prevented this from happening again.


Here's some questions:

1. Did the Epson replacement reset my warranty? For another year or 2? (Doubtful I'm sure.) But I'm just now 2 years past the original purchase date & warranty, but now this replacement will likely need to be replaced.

2. Is this dust blob problem inevitable? Seems I've seen people on here getting their 5th or 6th replacement for the same dust blob problem.

3. Any solution other than opening it up and potentially screwing something up? Keep a small fan pointed at it when in use? Keep the lens cap on when not in use? Live in a airless dust-free vacuum?


Seems like this is a pretty serious design flaw if it's just an inevitable problem mucking up the image for anyone not color-blind.


----------



## pd47


So I did it.  Figured I didn't have anything to lose.  I took the projector apart and took off the main board so I could get down to the LCD panels and polarizer assembly.  It actually was pretty easy and I'd suggest doing that is simple enough that if you're trying to fix dust blobs it's going to be a lot more effective taking off the main board and getting the air in to where you really need to in order to make it work.  

 

Now the bad news - I wasn't able to fix the problem.  I went ahead and pulled all the lenses out and tried to clean them up.  The blue one however must've been in some pretty rough shape.  I ended up with the same problem as in this post ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1292422/trying-to-fix-polarizer-problem-in-epson-emp-835-need-help ) where there was a film or something on the blue screen and touching it (with a lens cleaning cloth) caused some sort of "film" to wipe away.  I cleaned everything up, put it back together (which was easy and quick) and I still have the red tint issue on the bottom, plus I added a washed out bluish to the whole thing.  Oh well.  Having done it twice now I think I could pull apart, clean and put back together the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.  Sadly though I haven't been able to fix my problems with doing that.  

 

Know of any place that buys these things to refurbish them?  Or otherwise knows of a good way to dispose of one?


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markLA*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24360447
> 
> 
> Hey all-
> 
> 
> new to post here, but I've read a whole bunch of this thread, for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> My 8350 was just under warranty when I replaced it for increasingly bad green dust blobs.
> 
> 
> 
> New one looked really great until it slowly seems to be starting to show signs of new a dust blob, although in a different location on screen. Great. I even kept a nice antidust cover over this new one when not in use, which obviously hasn't prevented this from happening again.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Did the Epson replacement reset my warranty? For another year or 2? (Doubtful I'm sure.) But I'm just now 2 years past the original purchase date & warranty, but now this replacement will likely need to be replaced.
> 
> 
> 2. Is this dust blob problem inevitable? Seems I've seen people on here getting their 5th or 6th replacement for the same dust blob problem.
> 
> 
> 3. Any solution other than opening it up and potentially screwing something up? Keep a small fan pointed at it when in use? Keep the lens cap on when not in use? Live in a airless dust-free vacuum?
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like this is a pretty serious design flaw if it's just an inevitable problem mucking up the image for anyone not color-blind.



IMO it's inevitable and a fact of life for any LCD projectors that don't have a sealed light path, having said that I've owned 2 DLP's with dust blobs as well. To each their own... If you have good convergence, and no tint/hue I think people are insane to ship these units across the country trading each others refurbs for something that is an inherent problem in the technology of an LCD projector. It just doesn't have a sealed light path like DLP's, it's more prone to them.


It's a beautiful picture at a great price...well 3 yrs ago. I feel people are completely unreasonable on the dust blob issue and are looking at the wrong projector if it's a deal breaker.


I'm not even sure how this thread laser'd in on them as such a 8350 specific problem. I don't even blame epson.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24361226
> 
> 
> 
> So I did it.  Figured I didn't have anything to lose.  I took the projector apart and took off the main board so I could get down to the LCD panels and polarizer assembly.  It actually was pretty easy and I'd suggest doing that is simple enough that if you're trying to fix dust blobs it's going to be a lot more effective taking off the main board and getting the air in to where you really need to in order to make it work.
> 
> 
> 
> Now the bad news - I wasn't able to fix the problem.  I went ahead and pulled all the lenses out and tried to clean them up.  The blue one however must've been in some pretty rough shape.  I ended up with the same problem as in this post ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1292422/trying-to-fix-polarizer-problem-in-epson-emp-835-need-help ) where there was a film or something on the blue screen and touching it (with a lens cleaning cloth) caused some sort of "film" to wipe away.  I cleaned everything up, put it back together (which was easy and quick) and I still have the red tint issue on the bottom, plus I added a washed out bluish to the whole thing.  Oh well.  Having done it twice now I think I could pull apart, clean and put back together the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.  Sadly though I haven't been able to fix my problems with doing that.
> 
> 
> 
> Know of any place that buys these things to refurbish them?  Or otherwise knows of a good way to dispose of one?


 

Since you weren't going to pay to have it pro repaired (too costly), cool you at least tried (and reported findings here). Also, confirmed that this is the true way to clean dust-blobs.

 

So, you actually removed the polarizing lenses (Dichroic mirrors) from the machine, and re-installed them without throwing off the pixel alignment? What group of  parts did you remove, clean, and re-install without affecting pixel alignment?

 

If the damaged parts are in that group, wouldn't it be possible to order them and install them?

 

The more I study this Epson 3LCD tech (and what you say) ... I wonder if all alignment is between the parts in the final-stage 3LCD/prism assembly box. Since before that, it's just light (polarized light).

 

Don't assume you damaged them by cleaning them. The damage is likely from the light and radiant heat. Like how the sun oxidizes paint jobs or damages plastics. Also, why it is a "open design" to try to keep it cool.

 

To keep out of landfill, you could donate to that repair shop. Or, sell it for parts on eBay. I might even be interested take it off your hands ... but I could only pay the $20-$30 shipping to Texas (and only if it still works).


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markLA*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24360447
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all-
> 
> 
> 
> new to post here, but I've read a whole bunch of this thread, for a while.
> 
> 
> My 8350 was just under warranty when I replaced it for increasingly bad green dust blobs.
> 
> 
> New one looked really great until it slowly seems to be starting to show signs of new a dust blob, although in a different location on screen. Great. I even kept a nice antidust cover over this new one when not in use, which obviously hasn't prevented this from happening again.
> 
> 
> Here's some questions:
> 
> 1. Did the Epson replacement reset my warranty? For another year or 2? (Doubtful I'm sure.) But I'm just now 2 years past the original purchase date & warranty, but now this replacement will likely need to be replaced.
> 
> 2. Is this dust blob problem inevitable? Seems I've seen people on here getting their 5th or 6th replacement for the same dust blob problem.
> 
> 3. Any solution other than opening it up and potentially screwing something up? Keep a small fan pointed at it when in use? Keep the lens cap on when not in use? Live in a airless dust-free vacuum?
> 
> 
> Seems like this is a pretty serious design flaw if it's just an inevitable problem mucking up the image for anyone not color-blind.


1. Ask them, but like you said, doubtful. Dell, Onkyo ... they base it on original warranty (or whatever you pay to extend it).

 

2a. With 3LCD "open air" designs, yes (and with all similar makes/models). Dust even gets into suppose-ably sealed designs like DLP, but they are pretty easy to clean.

2b. Not sure why, but factory doesn't seem to take the time to clean every refurb before it ships out. Seems they do a basic image test and ship it out if it passes. You might be getting someone else's mild dust to start with.

 

3a. No, I don't think so. Like any other machine, it has to be serviced (professionally if you don't have the skills). There is a large amount of air going through the projector every minute. No, it's not entering through the lens ... it's the opposite end.

 

3b. Yes, dust-free clean-room environment might work. I don't think air-free vacuum would work since it needs air for cooling.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24340780
> 
> 
> I can use the focus ring to focus on the dust instead of the picture, and when I do this, I can clearly see purple and cyan dust specks,


When you can focus on the dust specks like that, pretty sure that is just dust on the LCDs and/or prism. Think about it ... the LCDs are what you focus on to produce a picture. I think the front side of the Prism is what we normally focus on, but if you are moving the focus quite-a-bit, you are likely now focusing on something slightly past that (the back-side of the prism or maybe the LCDs themselves).

 

Alternatively, the larger un-defined areas of wrong-tinted color ... that is likely dirty or damaged polarizers (in this True Epson 3LCD tech they are called "Dichroic mirrors") . Also, it's likely a different color path than the one you see on-screen (it appears that way due to the lack of another primary color). From this:

 

http://www.3lcd.com/explore/dichroic_mirror.aspx

 

you see that the red/cyan mirror gets hammered the hardest because it's first. A gradual failure in this mirror might appear to be over-driven red (ie pink).

 

Edit: My "best guess" repair info removed since I have never done it. Therefore, since just quessing based on videos and other posts... not likely helpful.


----------



## stahara

Well, my basement remodel is almost complete and I was set on buying an 8350. However, I'll have to say after reading quite a bit of this forum, I'm starting doubt my decision. Does this projector have more issues than most? Is there something else in this price range I should consider. the projector fill be overhead (about 6'2" high) a little behind the seats. I like that this is a rather quiet projector and seemed to be a good mix of price/performance.


Any thoughts?


Thanks.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24363538
> 
> 
> Well, my basement remodel is almost complete and I was set on buying an 8350. However, I'll have to say after reading quite a bit of this forum, I'm starting doubt my decision. Does this projector have more issues than most? Is there something else in this price range I should consider. the projector fill be overhead (about 6'2" high) a little behind the seats. I like that this is a rather quiet projector and seemed to be a good mix of price/performance.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Ya, scary huh? Mine works great but even though it's 2.5 years old, it says I'm only at 500 hours (we run the plasma more than 8350). My room is not light-controlled so I run it full (non-eco).

 

So, for 1080p ... this is entry level (but name-brand). Do you want LCD, 3LCD or DLP? Does it have to be under $1500 ?


----------



## stahara




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24363585
> 
> 
> Ya, scary huh? Mine works great but even though it's 2.5 years old, it says I'm only at 500 hours (we run the plasma more than 8350). My room is not light-controlled so I run it full (non-eco).
> 
> 
> So, for 1080p ... this is entry level (but name-brand). Do you want LCD, 3LCD or DLP? Does it have to be under $1500 ?



Yeah, I'd like to keep it in the under $1500 range especially after the money I've just spent on the basement. I thought I'd stick with LCD but honestly, I've never looked at DLP. except the noise spec, and they seem to run on the high end.


I do have a friend with an 8350 and he's been happy with it.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24363626
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd like to keep it in the under $1500 range especially after the money I've just spent on the basement. I thought I'd stick with LCD but honestly, I've never looked at DLP. except the noise spec, and they seem to run on the high end.
> 
> 
> I do have a friend with an 8350 and he's been happy with it.


I might recommend that you post your question in it's own thread and hit the projector review websites. Obviously I like LCD over DLP and that's why I bought the Epson years ago. Personally, I tend to gravitate towards Japanese manufacturers for AV gear and cars. Panasonic, Epson, Sony, Acura, etc.

 

Epson's patented version of 3-LCDs tech is very complicated (3LCD-tm) compared to Sony and likely Panasonic, but it's like that for a reason (performance).

 

Epson 3020e looks nice, and there is also a $1300 1080p Panasonic that a lot of people like. Sony LCD TVs are getting some good reviews lately, so I'm sure they make a nice projector also. Whether it's a $1300 projector or HDTV, I think we sometimes forget this is entry-level and the nicer, more reliable and long-lasting model-series are really $2500-$3000. There is a reason Epson 5030 and 240hz HDTVs cost that much ... it's not just brightness and screen-size.


----------



## pd47




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stahara*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24363538
> 
> 
> Well, my basement remodel is almost complete and I was set on buying an 8350. However, I'll have to say after reading quite a bit of this forum, I'm starting doubt my decision. Does this projector have more issues than most? Is there something else in this price range I should consider. the projector fill be overhead (about 6'2" high) a little behind the seats. I like that this is a rather quiet projector and seemed to be a good mix of price/performance.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I've spent the last few posts in here bashing on Epson (and I'll continue to do that, "a lover scorned" and all that) but I will say that the picture quality and performance of the unit was absolutely great.  No motion blur in sports, I didn't notice any gaming lag, and whether watching TV in moderate light (8-60W can lights on behind the projector) or in full darkness (I mean pitch black can't see your hand in front of your face dark) it looked great.  The picture quality and capability are what I will measure my next projector against, and I'm not switching brands or projectors because of issues i had with how the projector looked.  I'll also say if look through the other 285 pages of this thread you'll notice a few things.  

 

1 - They definitely had a bulb problem in their first batches of projectors, and it while I think it took a VERY LONG FREAKING TIME to fix, if you get a new one now you are probably going to get a good bulb to go with it.

 

2 - I (and I believe I get this feeling from Tesla1856 too) think it's a bad idea to send your projector back to them for dust blobs.  Having torn mine apart a few times now it's trivial to get in there and clean out your dust blobs.  What you do when you call Epson for this is trade your used projector (that you know exactly how it's been treated and used) with someone else's used projector that you have NO idea how they've been treating it.  

 

3 - Epson quality control sucks.  It's obvious they don't test their units before sending them out.  This isn't a thing with just the 8350.  Read through the threads on the 3020, 2030, 5020 and 5030, etc.  They've got the same problems and people have the same quality issues with replacement units.  If you're shying away from the 8350 it doesn't make sense to throw MORE money at a higher end model from the same manufacturer.  It's not a problem with *just this unit, *it's a problem with the company.

 

I know - you're about to drop north of a thousand bucks.  It's tough.  No matter what you get you could have problems, and sometimes it's best to know what kind of problems you could run into.  Look through some of the Panasonic threads (which, as far as I can tell are about the only other LCD projectors you're going to find in a similar price range).  They've got problems too - however IMO it doesn't seem to be quite to the same extent.  Though people are much less satisfied with their customer service when they have to be dealt with.  I seem to be the only person on this thread who doesn't like Epson customer service.  If you're willing to go to the >$3,000 threads there's JVC and Sony, and they seem to be rockstars in the LCD (though it's not really LCD, but something similar) projector market.  Other than that you're looking at DLP in you price range, BenQ, Optoma, etc.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24362317
> 
> 
> 
> So, you actually removed the polarizing lenses (Dichroic mirrors) from the machine, and re-installed them without throwing off the pixel alignment? What group of  parts did you remove, clean, and re-install without affecting pixel alignment?
> 
> 
> 
> If the damaged parts are in that group, wouldn't it be possible to order them and install them?
> 
> 
> 
> The more I study this Epson 3LCD tech (and what you say) ... I wonder if all alignment is between the parts in the final-stage 3LCD/prism assembly box. Since before that, it's just light (polarized light).
> 
> 
> 
> Don't assume you damaged them by cleaning them. The damage is likely from the light and radiant heat. Like how the sun oxidizes paint jobs or damages plastics. Also, why it is a "open design" to try to keep it cool.
> 
> 
> 
> To keep out of landfill, you could donate to that repair shop. Or, sell it for parts on eBay. I might even be interested take it off your hands ... but I could only pay the $20-$30 shipping to Texas (and only if it still works).


So when you rip off the main board you end up with something that roughly looks like this:

 



The three dots in a triangle surrounding the box that has the dot in the middle.  Those three dots are (I believe) the LCD panels or LCD polarizers or...well, something like that.  They are Blue, Green and Red screens.  I took those out and cleaned them.  As I said red and green cleaned easily but blue was all screwy.  They were easy enough to take out and put back in and alignment isn't a problem, there's little tabs on there to get it back in just right.  I didn't try taking out the thing in the middle, but I did give it a good blow with the compressed air.  Doing some reading on it I think it's a pretty sealed unit so taking it out I don't *think* would have done much.  As for replacement of parts I could easily replace the blue screen, or, really just about anything in there.  Getting a part for it though seems to be out of the question.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pd47*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24364642
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So when you rip off the main board you end up with something that roughly looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> The three dots in a triangle surrounding the box that has the dot in the middle.  Those three dots are (I believe) the LCD panels or LCD polarizers or...well, something like that.  They are Blue, Green and Red screens.  I took those out and cleaned them.  As I said red and green cleaned easily but blue was all screwy.  They were easy enough to take out and put back in and alignment isn't a problem, there's little tabs on there to get it back in just right.  I didn't try taking out the thing in the middle, but I did give it a good blow with the compressed air.  Doing some reading on it I think it's a pretty sealed unit so taking it out I don't *think* would have done much.  As for replacement of parts I could easily replace the blue screen, or, really just about anything in there.  Getting a part for it though seems to be out of the question.


Thanks so much for posting this. The clarification helped me realize my previous "repair" directions were off, so I edited them away. If I ever get inside mine, I will post my experience.

 

I still think the Dichroic mirrors play a large role and might have the potential to fail.

 

It would be unfortunate if we can't buy individual parts (maybe on-the-side from an authorized dealer). Buying the whole "Light Engine" is going to be cost prohibitive.


----------



## elmalloc

Just get the 8350 and don't worry about it, you will be hard pressed to find something with lower lag (if you game at all), no rainbows, accurate colors combined with high lumens at its price.


----------



## Deemancpa

Guys please don't shoot me,


Here's my question:


watching blu rays on the 8350 hhow can I make the picture fit the entire screen thanks in advance


Dee


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deemancpa*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390173
> 
> 
> Guys please don't shoot me,
> 
> 
> Here's my question:
> 
> 
> watching blu rays on the 8350 hhow can I make the picture fit the entire screen thanks in advance
> 
> 
> Dee



There are two adjustment rings around the lens. One is for focus. The other is for size. You should adjust the size with the test pattern on (lowest left button on the white Epson remote) and then center the image with the up/down, right/left adjustment wheels.


----------



## kevinwoodward

if you mean the black bars above and below.

do nothing but enjoy the movie and it will grow on you.


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24334761
> 
> Don't let this happen to you.
> 
> 
> So my 13 year old like to play Minecraft on the PS3 which is hooked up to my 8350. I generally don't let them play games on it because I don't want to wear out the bulb any sooner than necessary. Anyway I relented and let her play a few days ago. Today my older, more responsible son wanter to play on it but couldn't get the projector to come on. When I investigated I found the flashing red bulb light. My bulb was history. What happened? How did my daughter blow the bulb? The mystery is solved
> 
> 
> I have all my theater devices plugged in to a backup power supply. When My daughter turned off the system she still heard noises (fans) so she turned off the power switch on the UPS! That must have done it. When I check the bulb I found it shattered. So now I'm in the market for a bulb. I have a question. Should I buy a completely new housing with a new bulb for $260? Or should I just get the bulb from someplace like Best Buy for $60 and use the old housing? It seems rather straight forward to just replace the bulb and save money. What do you all think?


To follow up:


I bought two bulbs from Amazon. One was the Genie and the other was a no name for about $64. The no name bulb was obviously installed incorrectly in the housing so I sent it back. The Genie has worked well for the last few hours but I'm not happy with the image color and brightness using my same settings. I was happy with using x.v. color mode with the OEM bulb but now I have to use Dynamic. It looks good though. BTW I tried using Auto Iris in normal and fast mode but I don't think it helps the image. The changes in brightness are distracting. Today I ordered another bulb. This time from Pureland supply for $184. It supposedly has the OEM Osram bulb so We'll see.


----------



## Deemancpa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390300
> 
> 
> There are two adjustment rings around the lens. One is for focus. The other is for size. You should adjust the size with the test pattern on (lowest left button on the white Epson remote) and then center the image with the up/down, right/left adjustment wheels.



Ok. Hopefully I'm asking this right. I have no problems watching tv, cable or HD on the entire screen. IT's just the rented blu rays from Redbox that shows about half the screen. Are you saying adjust the setting every time I watch a blue ray? Am I explaining this correctly?


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deemancpa*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390173
> 
> 
> Guys please don't shoot me,
> 
> 
> Here's my question:
> 
> 
> watching blu rays on the 8350 hhow can I make the picture fit the entire screen thanks in advance
> 
> 
> Dee


Two good answers so far.

 

If you want to watch the movie in the proper aspect ratio (hint, you do), then ...

 

If you have a 16:9 screen ... unless the movie is formatted for exactly 16:9 (not many are) then you will have black bars at the top and bottom.


----------



## Project H

hey guys, i've had my 8350 installed for about 5-6 months now and have logged about ~40 hours on it. I usually sits idle and is uncovered as far as lens cap is concerned or PJ cover. Is there any maintenance I need to be doing or should I just leave it alone? When I do use it, it works perfectly no issues what so ever. I'm worried about messing with it and causing some issues that folks have seen on here. Do I need to do anything with the filter or is it good given the hours I logged etc?


----------



## kevinwoodward

filter? is there a filter somewhere i could clean?

i have a couple dust bombs visible but not too bad yet, but it's definitely louder than when i got mine (1400) hours

thanks


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deemancpa*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390379
> 
> 
> Ok. Hopefully I'm asking this right. I have no problems watching tv, cable or HD on the entire screen. IT's just the rented blu rays from Redbox that shows about half the screen. Are you saying adjust the setting every time I watch a blue ray? Am I explaining this correctly?


There is a button on the remote to adjust the aspect ratio or maybe it says picture size. You should cycle through those modes to find the one that fits/looks best.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390607
> 
> 
> hey guys, i've had my 8350 installed for about 5-6 months now and have logged about ~40 hours on it. I usually sits idle and is uncovered as far as lens cap is concerned or PJ cover. Is there any maintenance I need to be doing or should I just leave it alone? When I do use it, it works perfectly no issues what so ever. I'm worried about messing with it and causing some issues that folks have seen on here. Do I need to do anything with the filter or is it good given the hours I logged etc?


I only use mine for one or two movies a week also. I don't use the lens cap either because I have the focus perfect. Plus, I can just turn it on from the remote and it is ready to go. However, lens cap wouldn't be hard to use if you wanted to.

 

I checked the filter at about 400 hours at it was fine so I just blew it out and reinstalled it. I have vacuumed and cleaned the dust that settled on the top over the years. I have cleaned the lens a few times over the years (when cold, with special cotton cloths and fluid for glasses and optics). That's about it for me.

 

At 40 hours, there is likely nothing that you need to do to it.


----------



## mike734

The following 3 photos show the difference between the $69 Genie and the $184 Lamp from PureLandSupply The more expensive bulb is on the right. You can see heavier gauge wire is used. There is an OEM sticker on it and the workmanship of the solder seems better.

 
 
 


This one is also a cheap bulb but I don't know who sold it. It was about $59 from Amazon. I sent it back without installing because it was obviously defectively installed in the housing.


----------



## Crazy Eight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/5970#post_21302547
> 
> 
> These are the numbers I came up with for my Epson 8350 and Monoprice 120" multi-format white screen using Calman and a Chroma5.
> 
> 
> 
> Natural
> 
> 
> Brightness -11
> 
> 
> Contrast 8
> 
> 
> Color Saturation 0
> 
> 
> Tint -2
> 
> 
> Sharpness Advanced (All 4 Settings) 0
> 
> 
> Abs. Color Temp. 6500K
> 
> 
> Skin Tone 0
> 
> 
> 
> Advanced...
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma Custom 0 -6 -7 -8 -7 -7 -7 -8 5
> 
> 
> 
> RGB
> 
> 
> Offset R 6
> 
> 
> Offset G 0
> 
> 
> Offset B 23
> 
> 
> Gain R -2
> 
> 
> Gain G 0
> 
> 
> Gain B -25
> 
> 
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> 
> R 0 -13 -7
> 
> 
> G -37 -49 48
> 
> 
> B -7 10 -6
> 
> 
> C 0 -41 31
> 
> 
> M -16 -9 -16
> 
> 
> Y -3 -9 8
> 
> 
> 
> Power Consumption ECO
> 
> 
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> 
> 
> Signal [Advanced]
> 
> 
> Noise Reduction Off
> 
> 
> EPSON Super White Off
> 
> 
> Overscan Off
> 
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded



I'm way late to the party, but what's the reasoning for ECO consumption, and how much of the rest of your calibrations are reliant on it? In my case, it seems to walking the line of being terribly dim (100", white 1.1 gain, 12ft throw) and it hurts the highlights quite a bit. The random fits of flickering aren't pleasant either.


----------



## handsaw

I have had two 8350s, the first one left with the ex which was a small price to pay. I digress.


My current 8350 is about 3 yrs old. I do have minimal dust anomalies that are only visible on a black screen and periodically on a very dark screen while watching content. I don't love that this is present but it is a mild annoyance and then only once in a while.


My iris is noisier than when I purchased the projector which can be annoying. I change my mind periodically but I generally don't use the iris due to the change in brightness overall being perceptible when it changed. Perceptible to me but no one else who watches it. I currently am in a very light controlled environment, the iris seemed more useful when I had more difficulty controlling light.


I periodically get the iris error. I called Epson when I first got this error 2 years ago and they told me to unplug the projector and plug it back in. It clears the error and the projector functions fine. This happens maybe once a month. Keep in mind the projector is probably on 150+ hours a month.


BULBS. These were the bane of my existence when I first purchased an 8350. I have received 2 free bulbs, one for each projector I have owned. I never buy anything other than Epson bulbs due to an experience with a Sanyo projector I loved that was ruined by a generic bulb. My early experience with bulbs was as little as 700 hrs and as much as 1200 hrs. I have probably gone through 6 or 7 bulbs between the two 8350s. My most recent bulb I am at a whopping 3700 hours and it is going strong. I think whatever Epson's bulb issue was it may be fixed.


Overall we use the projector for movies, TV, web surfing, and gaming. It is on A LOT.


I don't regret my 8350 decision at all which is why I am on my second one. The picture is dynamic and once you have a projector it is hard to fathom anything else. This is my fourth home with the current projector and placement has been different in each house and the 8350 has accommodated all of these placement requirements including short throw distances.


It is remarkable that this is still a viable product for Epson after this many years. Its a good product with predictable issues that most people can live with especially if the bulb issues are really solved.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Crazy Eight*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24436279
> 
> 
> I'm way late to the party, but what's the reasoning for ECO consumption, and how much of the rest of your calibrations are reliant on it? In my case, it seems to walking the line of being terribly dim (100", white 1.1 gain, 12ft throw) and it hurts the highlights quite a bit. The random fits of flickering aren't pleasant either.



I never had any problems with flickering (except maybe if i had 24p enabled? I can't remember) so I can't say anything on that and don't own the Epson anymore to try and replicate flickering. I was projecting on a 120" screen and dimness wasn't an issue either. I don't think I ever tried to calibrate the image on Normal because the noise wasn't worth the bump in brightness but I'm sure the calibration would have held up pretty decently if I switched to Normal without re-calibrating but of course it wouldn't have been as good as it could be. The chances of my calibration working perfect for your setup are almost 0 anyways so making any adjustments isn't going to hurt anything anyways. I posted these as kind of a reference to show everyone where I made adjustments and to give everyone something to try on their setups other than the stock calibration.


----------



## Alexdad54

Following a saga with my refurbished 8350 which saw it replaced by Epson 4 times, they have sent me a brand new one. It seems to be behaving itself and has no dust blobs or iris issues (yet).

BUT, I think there may be a convergence issue though but I am not certain. I have searched this thread and understand that a shift of 1-2 pixels is considered acceptable but I'm not sure how to measure it.

I have used white on black lettering (from movie credits) and see a bit of green and/or blue shift (about 2 pixels) and I've also used the convergence pattern from the advanced tools on the Disney WOW disc. The latter wasn't much help though as it seemed to show misalignment of different colors in different parts of the pattern.

I realize that I may be doing this all wrong so would appreciate any tips on how to examine for convergence properly and, in order to post results here for feedback, how to take a picture of it properly. My initial attempts with my Canon Proshot 1200 haven't been very good.

I have only a few weeks left on the 2-year warranty so I'm keen to find out if this one's a keeper or not. (I'm assuming that the warranty didn't re-set with the NIB 8350).

Any advice appreciated.


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alexdad54*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24453844
> 
> 
> Following a saga with my refurbished 8350 which saw it replaced by Epson 4 times, they have sent me a brand new one. It seems to be behaving itself and has no dust blobs or iris issues (yet).
> 
> BUT, I think there may be a convergence issue though but I am not certain. I have searched this thread and understand that a shift of 1-2 pixels is considered acceptable but I'm not sure how to measure it.
> 
> I have used white on black lettering (from movie credits) and see a bit of green and/or blue shift (about 2 pixels) and I've also used the convergence pattern from the advanced tools on the Disney WOW disc. The latter wasn't much help though as it seemed to show misalignment of different colors in different parts of the pattern.
> 
> I realize that I may be doing this all wrong so would appreciate any tips on how to examine for convergence properly and, in order to post results here for feedback, how to take a picture of it properly. My initial attempts with my Canon Proshot 1200 haven't been very good.
> 
> I have only a few weeks left on the 2-year warranty so I'm keen to find out if this one's a keeper or not. (I'm assuming that the warranty didn't re-set with the NIB 8350).
> 
> Any advice appreciated.



Best way to answer your question is to take close-up photos of your convergence screen using your WOW disc and post them here. You will likely need photos as proof should you decide to return the projector for misconvergence.


Most projector manufacturers will state convergence has to be off by more than 2 pixels. Most 3 LCD (RGB) projectors use green as the base for convergence, red and blue are overlaid on the green to produce white.


The last time I checked my projector (not a 8350) my convergence was off by almost one pixel. Personally I feel 1/2 to 1 pixel is acceptable, 2 pixels off is pushing it. Manufacturers just want to reduce their exchange program.


The Canon ProShot A1200 is more than capable of taking close-up photos especially using the macro function. Definitely use a tripod for best clarity.


__
https://flic.kr/p/5701698825
​


----------



## Project H




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24390607
> 
> 
> hey guys, i've had my 8350 installed for about 5-6 months now and have logged about ~40 hours on it. I usually sits idle and is uncovered as far as lens cap is concerned or PJ cover. Is there any maintenance I need to be doing or should I just leave it alone? When I do use it, it works perfectly no issues what so ever. I'm worried about messing with it and causing some issues that folks have seen on here. Do I need to do anything with the filter or is it good given the hours I logged etc?



just wanted to get some more feedback if i should do anything maintenance wise at this stage to keep my projector performing at a high-level.


thanks!


----------



## raynist

Just had my bulb go out on Sunday night. The image for really really dark/dim and the bulb popped about 20 minutes later.


Only had 1400 hours on it in 2.5 years. Called epson for the hell of it but no good as I am past the 2 year warranty.


Ordered a OEM replacement from pureland supply. Hopefully this lasts longer. Always used cinema mode and Eco.


----------



## simonaks


Reposting here to say my fan is on the way out, starts making a whine after it heats up for 20 mins. Ive opened the unit and oiled the fan shaft, but problem seems to be persisting. its a nidec ultraflo ( model number U92T12MMB7 - 53 j33) which im unable to find anywhere on amazon or ebay. Has anyone replaced fan in their unit? what sort of fan did you use and how is it working out for you?


----------



## johns1pr


Hi Everyone,

 

First time I've looked at the forum and I have a question that I'm hoping someone might be able to answer.

 

I've got an Epson 8350 hooked up to a standard "all-in-one" 5.1 home theater system. I'm considering purchasing an Xbox One to use with the projector. Does anyone know if the Xbox can connect video to the projector, and audio via SPDIF to my home theater at the same time? I haven't been able to get my Xbox 360 hooked with audio, so I was curious if anyone knew if it was possible. I'm relatively new to the projector world, so I'm still trying to really learn the best way to set everything up. Thanks for any help you guys might be able to provide!


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johns1pr*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24515420
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've looked at the forum and I have a question that I'm hoping someone might be able to answer.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an Epson 8350 hooked up to a standard "all-in-one" 5.1 home theater system. I'm considering purchasing an Xbox One to use with the projector. Does anyone know if the Xbox can connect video to the projector, and audio via SPDIF to my home theater at the same time? I haven't been able to get my Xbox 360 hooked with audio, so I was curious if anyone knew if it was possible. I'm relatively new to the projector world, so I'm still trying to really learn the best way to set everything up. Thanks for any help you guys might be able to provide!


Depends on the AiO (HTiB) 5.1 Amp. What make/model is it? Some are pretty lame and limited.

 

Best way is to just hook up everything with HDMI, with the Amp "in the middle" ... and everything just works.


----------



## johns1pr


This is the HTiB setup I have:  http://www.insigniaproducts.com/products/home-audio-systems/NS-HTIB51A.html 


What do you mean by putting the amp in the middle? I would love to run everything via HDMI, but as it stands right now, I don't. For example, my cable box has 2 outputs running from it, HDMI to the projector and red and white audio cables to the receiver. Is that the typical way people would set these up?


----------



## scottvamp

I was moving my couch to play some PS3 bowling last night, a cord got caught on the corner of the couch and my Epson 8350 took a 5 foot fall off my shelf. I put everything back in place and to my amazement the Epson survived with absolutely NO injury!!!!!







Just thought I would share


----------



## SKoprowski

I am looking at getting this to replace a 7 year old Hitach PJ-TX100. I really need the lens shift and longer throw so I can just swap the projectors without re-positioning the ceiling mount and it's hard to find a sub $1500 projector that offers that-the 8350 is one of the few. Should I stay away from it or are the newer builds being sold now correct a lot of the past issues? I am stuck with using LCD because I am one of those who are very sensitive to rainbows from DLP projectors. Thanks


----------



## eagleze

I just purchased the 8350 and the black levels are not as good as I had hoped. In fact I don't see them being much better than my old HC1500. I'm wondering I have a DYI screen using Wilson Art bright white Formica (108" diagonal screen) with my projector positioned 11' away. Could this be the cause of my blacks not being darker? I have ordered the WOW disc in hopes it is related to calibration.


----------



## Droid6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johns1pr*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8580#post_24518608
> 
> 
> This is the HTiB setup I have:  http://www.insigniaproducts.com/products/home-audio-systems/NS-HTIB51A.html
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by putting the amp in the middle? I would love to run everything via HDMI, but as it stands right now, I don't. For example, my cable box has 2 outputs running from it, HDMI to the projector and red and white audio cables to the receiver. Is that the typical way people would set these up?



No, your AV receiver has 3 HDMI inputs (accepts the audio and video from your source (cable box, Xbox, etc...)) and 1 HDMI output (sends the video of your source to the projector). Run the HDMI output to the projector and run all your devices (up to 3) into the HDMI inputs. You should not need to run separate audio cables.


----------



## johns1pr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Droid6*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24522853
> 
> 
> 
> No, your AV receiver has 3 HDMI inputs (accepts the audio and video from your source (cable box, Xbox, etc...)) and 1 HDMI output (sends the video of your source to the projector). Run the HDMI output to the projector and run all your devices (up to 3) into the HDMI inputs. You should not need to run separate audio cables.


Wow, thanks for the help. I'll give it a try tonight when I get home.


----------



## robertw11

Way late to the party. Canceled my 3020 order, and ordered a 8350 refurb from visual apex. Hoping it's a problem free unit.


----------



## johns1pr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johns1pr*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24524598
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, thanks for the help. I'll give it a try tonight when I get home.


Worked like a charm. Thanks, sir! Appreciate the help, guys.


----------



## DanRadmacher

I found an Epson 8350 on eBay for a good price for my basement home theater. When it came, though, it wouldn’t power up, giving me a bad lamp indicator. The seller was cooperative, offering to take the return. I suggested he could just send me a new lamp if he’d prefer. He did that, and it worked great.


A day or two ago, though, I noticed the picture was kind of flickering. It’s not a rhythmic thing. More intermittent. It will darken, then lighten, then flicker a few times in a second.


Does that sound like a bad lamp or something else?


I put up the projector before all the construction was finished, so there’s probably been a fair amount of dust down here. Should I try to take some compressed air to the vents?


Any other thoughts? The HDMI connections all seem good.


----------



## SKoprowski

So are convergence and auto iris issues a thing of the past for this projector? I need to replace a Hitach PJ-TX100 720p projector and need a long throw LCD projector with len shift- the Epson 8350/8345 seems to be the only projector that fits this criteria for me. I can't go DLP since I seem to be very sensitive to rainbow issues. All the issues of the 8350 kind of scare me but I would like to think things have improved over the years but am I wrong? Thanks for the advice.


Scott


----------



## emiliosic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanRadmacher*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24555111
> 
> 
> I found an Epson 8350 on eBay for a good price for my basement home theater. When it came, though, it wouldn’t power up, giving me a bad lamp indicator. The seller was cooperative, offering to take the return. I suggested he could just send me a new lamp if he’d prefer. He did that, and it worked great.
> 
> 
> A day or two ago, though, I noticed the picture was kind of flickering. It’s not a rhythmic thing. More intermittent. It will darken, then lighten, then flicker a few times in a second.
> 
> 
> Does that sound like a bad lamp or something else?
> 
> 
> I put up the projector before all the construction was finished, so there’s probably been a fair amount of dust down here. Should I try to take some compressed air to the vents?
> 
> 
> Any other thoughts? The HDMI connections all seem good.



Sounds like a bad lamp. Some inexpensive lamps seem to do that for what I read on Amazon reviews. You should also change or at least clean the air filter. There's a hinge on the rear of the projector behind the lamp where the filter is.


----------



## F12Bwth

If you have the pj in ECO mode take it out. My 8350 new out of the box when I used eco would do what you are describing. I put it in Bright and never looked back.


----------



## DanRadmacher

I talked with Epson Support, and they diagnosed it as a bad ballast. The good thing is I bought it new on eBay, and I bought it in mid-April last year, so it is still under warranty. They're shipping a replacement unit.


----------



## robertw11

  



Premier Mounts PDS-Plus, if anyone's looking for a low profile mount. Picked it up at Staples for cheap.


Mount info
http://www.mounts.com/product?product=PDS-PLUS


----------



## Drensch

About a week ago my bulb got very dim, had 2919 hrs on it. Then a few days later it went. I went ahead and ordered an Epson bulb from visual apex, and it's great. Didn't have to recalibrate or anything. I will call Epson and see about a bulb, though.


----------



## joeags

I just wanted to give another update here, as I don't come by very often since things work very well with my 8350. I am at the exact 3 year mark on my projector. I had no issues with it from the beginning, and we used it as a weekend movie only projector, so only had 1100 hours over the first 2 1/2 years. The lamp exploding was the first issue that I had with the projector, but since it was 6 months out of warranty, I didn't try going through Epson for a replacement, even though the hours were low.


Replacement bulb was the genie as mentioned in the quote. I've now used this bulb for 6 months and fast approaching 1000 hours. I was working on a full-basement remodel last year, so the projector turned into a more tv style device, where we would watch it multiple hours each day. With that being said, I haven't had any issues with the bulb. I can say that the brightness is definitely NOT on scale with the original bulb. I always watched on eco mode during an evening movie session with the original bulb, but this one is on natural or living room. Natural is fine brightness wise, but I prefer the color on living room mode, so I just go with that. I've definitely never needed dynamic even during the day, but it's a bit dimmer on the whole.


With that being said, I don't regret the purchase of the bulb one bit. Sure, I have to pump up the brightness a bit, but all in all, the color looks good, I'm approaching the number of hours I hit on the original bulb, and it cost $62 instead of hundreds. Definitely recommended for most.


And as for the projector, it's also highly recommended. Sure, there are people on here that have had issues, but realize that people that have had good luck with it generally aren't here to make comments, they're busy enjoying their projector!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8490#post_24172410
> 
> 
> I also purchased the genie lamps replacement, albeit at $62 back in November. I had 1136 hours on my projector over 2.5 years. I also see the lamp as being comparable in brightness to the original, but can't be certain. No beeps or any other sounds from the projector. Best I can say is I am pleased with it, would recommend it at this point, and hope for it to last a decent length of time past the 150 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> :
> 
> Originally Posted by curtlots View Post
> 
> 
> I bought the $56 Generic Replacement lamp "by Genie" from Amazon a couple weeks ago and couldn't be happier. It's also for sale on eBay for a little less, but I have Prime so got it from Amazon. I researched other lamps, and read the reviews on Amazon, but this one seemed to have the best reviews. For $56 I though it was worth a shot, I'll see how many hours I get out of it. I took some photos of both lamps together. It's nearly impossible to tell the difference. I can post them if anyone is interested.
> 
> 
> I purchased my 8350 in April of 2012 from Projector People as a refurb unit. I'm not sure if I just got lucky, but the convergence was and is excellent, and everything else was great. I had 2850 hours on the original bulb. A few months ago, I could start to detect some dimming. I always ran the projector on eco mode, so I bumped it up to the next level. It wasn't long before the picture just didn't seem right. From what I experienced, the dimming of the bulb not only resulted in a darker picture, but less contrast, colors being off, and poorer detail. I suppose this all makes sense.
> 
> 
> There's no way I can say for sure that this replacement bulb is as bright as the original, but it sure seems to be. It's really a revelation putting a new bulb in! As mentioned in Lord of the Rings, darkness has a way of creeping up on you.
> 
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention a couple things. I did call Epson to see if I could get a replacement bulb since the projector's still under warranty. No such luck. After a few days on the bulb, I popped in my WOW disc to recalibrate the settings. I was surprised that all the major settings were essentially the same as the original bulb, only 1 step either direction at most. Not sure, but I think this would indicate the replacement bulb has very similar, if not the same properties as the original.
Click to expand...


----------



## handsaw

I have used two different screens with my 8350. A white screen looked very washed out with poor blacks. I have a Severtson fixed screen that is grey with a gain of 1.3 and it looks great. Nice and bright and much better contrast. Screens definitely matter.


----------



## handsaw

I just had to replace my most recent bulb. 3909 hrs. Im very pleased with the hrs.


----------



## wormraper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *handsaw*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24572831
> 
> 
> I just had to replace my most recent bulb. 3909 hrs. Im very pleased with the hrs.



I would be. those are excellent hours.


----------



## socal swagger

I have a 8350 going on 2 years now and it appears that the letters seem a lil bit blurred. What i mean is when i access the menu section on the epson those numbers n letters seem a lil bit fuzzy. Any ideas to as why?


120 with a 19feet throw


----------



## tpoynton

I am not trying to be flip


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *socal swagger*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24576653
> 
> 
> I have a 8350 going on 2 years now and it appears that the letters seem a lil bit blurred. What i mean is when i access the menu section on the epson those numbers n letters seem a lil bit fuzzy. Any ideas to as why?
> 
> 
> 120 with a 19feet throw



Not trying to be flip, but did you try refocusing it?


----------



## socal swagger

Break it down for me when u say refocusing it. It is centered with minimal lens shift How do I refocus it wat button sequence


----------



## tpoynton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *socal swagger*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24578873
> 
> 
> Break it down for me when u say refocusing it. It is centered with minimal lens shift How do I refocus it wat button sequence



I mean turning the ring around the lens, nothing fancy


----------



## curtlots




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24563895
> 
> 
> I just wanted to give another update here, as I don't come by very often since things work very well with my 8350. I am at the exact 3 year mark on my projector. I had no issues with it from the beginning, and we used it as a weekend movie only projector, so only had 1100 hours over the first 2 1/2 years. The lamp exploding was the first issue that I had with the projector, but since it was 6 months out of warranty, I didn't try going through Epson for a replacement, even though the hours were low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement bulb was the genie as mentioned in the quote. I've now used this bulb for 6 months and fast approaching 1000 hours. I was working on a full-basement remodel last year, so the projector turned into a more tv style device, where we would watch it multiple hours each day. With that being said, I haven't had any issues with the bulb. I can say that the brightness is definitely NOT on scale with the original bulb. I always watched on eco mode during an evening movie session with the original bulb, but this one is on natural or living room. Natural is fine brightness wise, but I prefer the color on living room mode, so I just go with that. I've definitely never needed dynamic even during the day, but it's a bit dimmer on the whole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that being said, I don't regret the purchase of the bulb one bit. Sure, I have to pump up the brightness a bit, but all in all, the color looks good, I'm approaching the number of hours I hit on the original bulb, and it cost $62 instead of hundreds. Definitely recommended for most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as for the projector, it's also highly recommended. Sure, there are people on here that have had issues, but realize that people that have had good luck with it generally aren't here to make comments, they're busy enjoying their projector!


 



Glad to hear you have had good luck with the Genie bulb.


I meant to update my post earlier and your post reminded me that I had failed to do so.


As of right now, I'm a little bit on the fence regarding the Genie bulb. I always ran my projector in eco mode with the original bulb, and did the same with the Genie. My original bulb had something like 2800 hours and had dimmed considerably, so the Genie brought me back to what seemed like the original brightness, at least in eco. The issue I ran into, and I saw this mentioned by someone else in another post, is that I noticed some intermittent flickering using the Genie bulb in eco mode. Putting the projector in normal mode solved the flickering. I thought if I ran the projector in natural mode for long enough, I could go back to eco and not have the flickering issue. That never happened. I sent a message to Amazon and they sent a replacement Genie lamp, free of charge. I put the new Genie lamp in, and immediately noticed that there was a greenish tint to the bottom right section of the screen. If I displayed a white image (google white using the PS3 browser) there were color issues across the screen. I notified Amazon and they had me send the lamp back. I have yet to get reimbursed for this second lamp. I put the original Genie lamp back in, and am satisfied with the lamp as long as I run it in normal mode. I have around 800 hours on the lamp now.


For less than $60 I still feel the Genie lamp is worth a try. I will change that thought if I don't get reimbursed for what was clearly a defective second lamp.


I will likely spend a little more money next time and get an OEM lamp, at least make sure it has the Osram bulb. I won't go through Epson and pay $300 for the bulb though. This is the old give the razor away and make it up selling overpriced blades strategy.


----------



## Fishtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtlots*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24581999
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joeags*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24563895
> 
> 
> I just wanted to give another update here, as I don't come by very often since things work very well with my 8350. I am at the exact 3 year mark on my projector. I had no issues with it from the beginning, and we used it as a weekend movie only projector, so only had 1100 hours over the first 2 1/2 years. The lamp exploding was the first issue that I had with the projector, but since it was 6 months out of warranty, I didn't try going through Epson for a replacement, even though the hours were low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement bulb was the genie as mentioned in the quote. I've now used this bulb for 6 months and fast approaching 1000 hours. I was working on a full-basement remodel last year, so the projector turned into a more tv style device, where we would watch it multiple hours each day. With that being said, I haven't had any issues with the bulb. I can say that the brightness is definitely NOT on scale with the original bulb. I always watched on eco mode during an evening movie session with the original bulb, but this one is on natural or living room. Natural is fine brightness wise, but I prefer the color on living room mode, so I just go with that. I've definitely never needed dynamic even during the day, but it's a bit dimmer on the whole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that being said, I don't regret the purchase of the bulb one bit. Sure, I have to pump up the brightness a bit, but all in all, the color looks good, I'm approaching the number of hours I hit on the original bulb, and it cost $62 instead of hundreds. Definitely recommended for most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as for the projector, it's also highly recommended. Sure, there are people on here that have had issues, but realize that people that have had good luck with it generally aren't here to make comments, they're busy enjoying their projector!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear you have had good luck with the Genie bulb.
> 
> 
> I meant to update my post earlier and your post reminded me that I had failed to do so.
> 
> 
> As of right now, I'm a little bit on the fence regarding the Genie bulb. I always ran my projector in eco mode with the original bulb, and did the same with the Genie. My original bulb had something like 2800 hours and had dimmed considerably, so the Genie brought me back to what seemed like the original brightness, at least in eco. The issue I ran into, and I saw this mentioned by someone else in another post, is that I noticed some intermittent flickering using the Genie bulb in eco mode. Putting the projector in normal mode solved the flickering. I thought if I ran the projector in natural mode for long enough, I could go back to eco and not have the flickering issue. That never happened. I sent a message to Amazon and they sent a replacement Genie lamp, free of charge. I put the new Genie lamp in, and immediately noticed that there was a greenish tint to the bottom right section of the screen. If I displayed a white image (google white using the PS3 browser) there were color issues across the screen. I notified Amazon and they had me send the lamp back. I have yet to get reimbursed for this second lamp. I put the original Genie lamp back in, and am satisfied with the lamp as long as I run it in normal mode. I have around 800 hours on the lamp now.
> 
> 
> For less than $60 I still feel the Genie lamp is worth a try. I will change that thought if I don't get reimbursed for what was clearly a defective second lamp.
> 
> 
> I will likely spend a little more money next time and get an OEM lamp, at least make sure it has the Osram bulb. I won't go through Epson and pay $300 for the bulb though. This is the old give the razor away and make it up selling overpriced blades strategy.
Click to expand...


For what it's worth all 3 of my official epson bulbs had the flicker on eco like many other people. I just left it on high and enjoyed the brighter image... I realize that would grate on some people though.


----------



## ruftytufty57

I just ceiling-mounted my 8350.


After testing the location by setting it on the shelf of a ladder, I mounted a couple of feet to the right of center (it's in the middle of a big room, and I was trying to minimize the cable runs along the ceiling).


Unfortunately, after installing the ceiling mount and the projector, leveling the projector and getting it parallel with the screen so that there would be no keystone effect, I realized that I couldn't quite get it centered on the screen.


Turns out that the horizontal shift will go much farther to one side than the other, and not to the direction I need it to go.


If the projector were right side up, and aiming the picture slightly above center, then it lets me adjust way to the left, but not much at all to the right, w/o throwing off the vertical adjustment. The 2-foot difference between the ceiling-mount height and the ladder height are enough to get it out of the range of proper adjustability.


I'm aware that the horizontal and vertical adjustments are tied together, and I've read all the posts I could find about horizontal and vertical adjustment, so I think I understand mostly what is "normal" for this projector.


However, is this much lopsidedness in horizontal adjustability normal? Or could perhaps something have gotten messed up? It is a refurb, though haven't noticed any problems with it.


If this is normal, then I can move the projector mount over a foot or so, but hoping to avoid that if possible.


Thanks!


----------



## jflynn

I bought my projector in December 2012 and am also noticing that the sharpness just isn't what it used to be. Of course, I tried refocusing many times but when I go out in the living room and look at my 47 inch HD TV the picture on the same HD channel is much sharper. I'm sure my Epson was just as sharp before this degradation started. I have 1795 hrs on the original lamp. I wonder if the lamp is starting to go and may be causing the drop in sharpness - although the brightness still seem OK. Any suggestion appreciated.


----------



## JWolff

Speaking of very late to the game, I'm thinking of picking up a Manufacturer Refurbished 8350 for my basement because it can throw the distance I need (16.5 feet) and create a 125" 16:9 image. If you had to do it again, would you buy this pj at $899 and at what height do I need to mount this below my ceiling to hit the ceiling mounted electric screen? I was planning to get the Elite Spectrum AT Electric Screen, so there's 12" from ceiling to top of viewable screen (between the case and top border).


----------



## Jones4AU

I just bought one of those 8350 refurb's direct from Epson, and after about 40 hours, I love the thing so far. I haven't tweaked a thing (and I'm a big-time tweaker). Projector is ceiling mounted about 15' from the wall-mounted screen. Screen is 120" diag. The projector lens is about a foot below the top of the screen. I have plenty of vertical adjustment to get the entire image on the screen, with some adjustment to spare. Colors are great, brightness is great. Very quiet, with auto iris on or off. About the only downsides I can think of are size, weight, and heat. The projector is large, heavy, and does a good imitation of a space heater. Take those things into account when you mount it. Other than that, just sit and enjoy the thing. I have a 60" Sony LED, and I really prefer to watch the projector.


----------



## phreshjive

Had a few questions wanted resolved prior to finishing up renovations.

*Components*: Purchased an Epson 8350, an RPA-168 mount and a Peerless ACC 570 Plate. Receiver is a Denon AVR-1913. Screen is a fixed frame 82” Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision 40.5 x 72. Actual dimensions of the screen including the frame are 46.5 x 78. My room size is 12 x 10.


I’ve now run in-wall the following to the projector: HDMI, Power and 24 gauge telephone wire (to run to the BAFX Products IR Repeater). Tomorrow after reading through the forums, I’ll be adding 2 runs of Cat6 Plenum wires to future proof the system. I’ve also run 12 gauge in-wall speaker wire to 5 Infinity Minuette L-MPS speakers and am running an RG-6 cable to the location where the sub will rest.

*Q1*: Am I missing anything?


Projector will be placed 9 feet from the screen in the spot so that the lens is dead center (or as close as I could get it). Screen frame will be placed 13 inches from ceiling.

*Q2*: How long should the height of the PVC pipe be / what is the optimal spot to for the lens to be? Ideally I would like it short but want to get the best possible picture quality and with my previous setup (Optoma EP1690 / cheap screen / Yamaha HTR-6090) had to go down the dreaded keystone route due to it having been placed on a shelf on the wall.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *phreshjive*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24650056
> 
> Had a few questions wanted resolved prior to finishing up renovations.
> 
> *Components*: Purchased an Epson 8350, an RPA-168 mount and a Peerless ACC 570 Plate. Receiver is a Denon AVR-1913. Screen is a fixed frame 82” Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision 40.5 x 72. Actual dimensions of the screen including the frame are 46.5 x 78. My room size is 12 x 10.
> 
> 
> I’ve now run in-wall the following to the projector: HDMI, Power and 24 gauge telephone wire (to run to the BAFX Products IR Repeater). Tomorrow after reading through the forums, I’ll be adding 2 runs of Cat6 Plenum wires to future proof the system. I’ve also run 12 gauge in-wall speaker wire to 5 Infinity Minuette L-MPS speakers and am running an RG-6 cable to the location where the sub will rest.
> 
> *Q1*: Am I missing anything?



As far as the amount and breadth of you prep work....not much. But in many respects you have waxed a bit redundant. New Wireless HDMI products cost less than the Balens that would work with your Cat-6e runs, and IR Repeaters are just so...."1990-2000-ish"







RF Remote systems are the thing to consider IMHO. Your room is small so many concerns about about strength of signal from any RF item is not going to be an issue. Even your Sub Woofer can be wireless....afford-ably so, and therein offer you more flexibility in experimenting with ideal placement considerations.


> Quote:
> Projector will be placed 9 feet from the screen in the spot so that the lens is dead center (or as close as I could get it). Screen frame will be placed 13 inches from ceiling.



Close enough. The 8350 is endowed with plenty of Horizontal and Vertical Lens Shift so absolutely perfect placement in either "Center" or "Height" is not a requirement. You don't want to be off somewhere in the Hinterlands mind you...but even a foot off center, or at almost any reasonable height down from the Ceiling you might consider will be fine. A bit more on this below.


Do you have access to the space above where the PJ is to be mounted? (Attic or Crawl space) If so, with a wee bit of extra effort, you can do an installation where all that mess of cordage and Power can run up through / down through the Center of the Pipe / Mount, and any 110 power provided via a Outlet installed above.


> Quote:
> *Q2*: How long should the height of the PVC pipe be / what is the optimal spot to for the lens to be? Ideally I would like it short but want to get the best possible picture quality and with my previous setup (Optoma EP1690 / cheap screen / Yamaha HTR-6090) had to go down the dreaded keystone route due to it having been placed on a shelf on the wall.



In such a small room, I'd venture to guess you have 8' ceilings. With the 8350 if you install the PJ so it's Lens is "centered" at 8-9" down from the Ceiling you will be fine. By locating the PJ's lens as close to the center of the screen as possible, that allows you maximum Vertical Height adjustment. H&V lens adjustments are cumalitive, so too much adjustment in one restricts / limits the amount of adjustment available with the other.


If you look back at my own many 8350 installations, you will find they almost all involve my running a PVC Pipe cleanly through the Ceiling, the the ACC-570 Plate located in the Attic, or between joists on a Bridge of Plywood (...if installed during Construction)


Too any effect, if you already have committed to a exterior mounting solution, using the ACC-570 and the RPA 168, and considering the height of your screen's top edge and your room's ceiling height against the depth of the two mounting pieces, all you need is a 6" drop Pipe, and for that you could use a NPT 1.5" ID 6"long Threaded Steel Nipple from Home Depot. They do come a bit "oily" so be sure to clean it off good with some cleaner. You can then paint the Drop Pipe as well as the ACC-570 the same color as the Ceiling is, for at least some semblance of a more cosmetic look than a bunch of Black parts above the PJ.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *phreshjive*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24650056
> 
> 
> I’ve now run in-wall the following to the projector: HDMI, Power and 24 gauge telephone wire (to run to the BAFX Products IR Repeater). Tomorrow after reading through the forums, I’ll be adding 2 runs of Cat6 Plenum wires to future proof the system.


 

I purchased a IR Extender Set (works by RF) but never had to use it. If I point the 8350 Remote (or Harmony) at the screen/wall ... it bounces off it and controls the 8350 behind me, no problem.

 

HDMI cable should be normal (non-Redmere) and fairly heavy gauge (since it's long). I use MonoPrice "45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable". I run full bandwidth Blu-Ray (1080p, high color, HD 7.1 Audios) and never a problem or glitch.

 

I don't run any analog (Component or lesser) Video Input devices. If you do ... (and depending on AVR abilities) you might need some separate runs.

 

Not sure what the other wires are for. IMO, a real HDMI cable is better than any converters.


----------



## Sonofawhatthe


Good Evening All,

 

After months of projector-less pain and anquish (we lost our beloved Optoma HD20 in Fall) I went out and spent LIST on an 8350 at Best Buy. I was afraid of refurb based on some of the posts I've seen here although a $400 savings is pretty hard to ignore. I even bought the excrutiatingly expensive 4 year extended warranty to give myself peace. I'm a salesperson's best friend. Sign where? Okay.   But seriously, I couldn't find the projector discounted anywhere (I trusted) after a couple of months of looking. So I'll pretend I don't have buyer's remorse and move forward. 

 

The Optoma was mounted from the ceiling and I assumed mounts were fairly universal. I assumed wrong. Is there a generic plate I could mount to the Epson that then might mount to my more universal mount? The existing mount is a really solid design and I'd love to leave the main mount up in the ceiling and simply find a way to do an extra connection to the 5 point bottom of the projector.

 

I'm also hoping that the location of the previous projector is close to the right distance for the new one! Do projectors vary a lot in terms of throw length?

 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonofawhatthe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24655770
> 
> 
> 
> The Optoma was mounted from the ceiling and I assumed mounts were fairly universal. I assumed wrong. Is there a generic plate I could mount to the Epson that then might mount to my more universal mount? The existing mount is a really solid design and I'd love to leave the main mount up in the ceiling and simply find a way to do an extra connection to the 5 point bottom of the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also hoping that the location of the previous projector is close to the right distance for the new one! Do projectors vary a lot in terms of throw length?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any thoughts.


 

Ya, I got mine at BestBuy/Magnolia also years ago. No UPS handling that way. Interesting that they are still selling them new as a current model.

 

A pic (or link) of existing mount might help ... not sure how many here will know Optoma mount.

 

If Optoma was DLP, that might be the difference. The placement calculator is at epson.com .


----------



## Sonofawhatthe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24655830
> 
> 
> 
> A pic (or link) of existing mount might help ... not sure how many here will know Optoma mount.
> 
> 
> 
> If Optoma was DLP, that might be the difference. The placement calculator is at epson.com .


Thanks for reply. 

 

Hopefully  I'm attaching a picture of the old mount. I'll do my calculations- thanks for that tip.


----------



## phreshjive

Thank you *MississippiMan* for your input. As always, it is much appreciated.


Call me old fashioned, but in my mind, wireless anything will never replace a good ol’ hardwired connection hence running the 2 Cat6 for possible future balen use. As far as an RF remote system, the IR repeater in question was a whopping $30 on Amazon and I knew would do the trick. Must have over 1000 feet of that telephone cable lying around so figured why not.


Unfortunately the home has no attic access. Did not want to go through trouble of creating one. Build is from the 60s and has an unusually thick cement board for walls and ceiling. After drilling out hole for wires to pass, weight of projector, pipe, and mounting solution, an architect looked it over and said it would hold without question. Power and HDMI will simply come out through rear of the ACC-570. 2 Cat 6 will just sit up in there as well. Will be nice and clean.

*Tesla1856*: Just want to account for any future standard change. I purchased the 25ft version of the exact HDMI cable that you purchased. With two Cat6, should something occur, I can just use a balen on both ends and call it a day (or wireless HDMI/XXX as MississippiMan suggested)

*Sonofawhatthe*: Don’t know if you are still within your 30 day return window at Best Buy, but if you are consider returning their warranty and going Squaretrade. While I worked at a big box store for 10 years in my younger days, they are a massive profit center. Squaretrade sells a similar piece of mind offering and every now and then runs 40% off promotions. You can also purchase the warranty at Costco if you are a member. If the one bulb replacement is what sold you, reading through this thread, Epson has been more than fair with owners of this projector.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *phreshjive*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24656289
> 
> 
> Build is from the 60s and has an unusually thick cement board for walls and ceiling. After drilling out hole for wires to pass, weight of projector, pipe, and mounting solution, an architect looked it over and said it would hold without question.


 

Sounds good ... but just to be clear ... at least one of the mount's main screws should hit a stud. Hopefully, more than one.


----------



## DevonS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130851
> 
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so....



I just finished this on my 8350 and put the projector back up. My blobs are GONE!!!

















Thank you so much for the tutorial!


----------



## bjmsam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjmsam*  /t/1397994/lightning-strike-blows-out-all-hdmi-ports/30#post_24676550
> 
> 
> We were away during an electrical storm earlier this week but returned home to a blown Comcast cable splitter, a Sony BDP-S390 Blu-ray player that won't power on and an Epson 8350 projector that won't recognize any HDMI inputs (but seems fine otherwise).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Square-D whole-house surge suppressor is not blown and all A/V equipment in the theater gets power through a Panamax 5100 connected to an APS Line-R 1200. The cable is connected to only the Comcast DVR in the bedroom and the modem in the study, and the Blu-ray player is connected through the router in the A/V rack, a switch and the router in the study which are all fine, so it's hard to understand how HDMI was affected if not via induction.



All other inputs work fine, but from this photo, it appears that the HDMI section is integrated on the main board, so is this worth fixing, or would I be better off spending $900 on a refurb?










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xccxxx*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7200#post_22130851
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k8wMBh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



Or should I switch to the component inputs ?


----------



## faxmonkey

Genie lamps for $46 on Amazon. Have the prices really gone so low?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TAGX0U/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=15X7M453QYEBVJZJ5HMR&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846


----------



## Archaea

^ if that works - that's absurd!


----------



## Sonofawhatthe


Hi Again All

 

So I went and sourced a "real" mount so I don't have to MacGyver a solution to the old "universal" one. I think I could have done it easily but I would have worried long term about the difference in the static weight. The Epson is substantially heavier. The old mount is about 17' 8" horizontal from the screen (wall). The screen is roughly 13ft diagonally (but 12 feet would be fine). Looking at the installation guide I think I'm okay using the same mount location for the new mount. 

 

https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf

 

The new mount allows me to hang it 12" from ceiling... is that enough? The installation guide talks about "Offset A = 34". If i hang it 3 feet from the ceiling.. well we'll be running into it 

 

The Image Size Calculator tool isn't offering me much in the way of optimism either.


----------



## MississippiMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonofawhatthe*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24686708
> 
> 
> Hi Again All
> 
> 
> So I went and sourced a "real" mount so I don't have to MacGyver a solution to the old "universal" one.
> 
> 
> The new mount allows me to hang it 12" from ceiling... is that enough? The installation guide talks about "Offset A = 34". If i hang it 3 feet from the ceiling.. well we'll be running into it



OFGS.....which mount solution did you go with?










Talk about leaving out the crucial info!


Whatever choice, the 8350 has more than enough Vertical Lens **** to accommodate a 12" drop if you've positioned the Lens close to the Center of the Screen.


----------



## rffish

My 8350 has a blurred center focus greenish in color. Outside edges are ok. I changed bulbs with no change. Anyone have a fix? Or suggestions to try?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8520#post_24232038
> 
> 
> My genie lamp is not as bright. However, I'm at 140" at 17' throw too. I ran the OEM on eco mode and natural for along time, then ran on eco and living room mode. With the genie, I have to run on normal mode and living room mode, so I'll get or should get less hours on this genie lamp.
> 
> 
> I had to adjust the blue and green out of the picture, the trouble I was having in my prior post and after we have used it for about 25 hours now, it is def. a usable lamp.
> 
> 
> I def. would buy another genie as the price is right. If we can get 1500 hours out of this, I'll be extremely happy too. Anyone have long hours on their genie lamp yet?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8550#post_24337098
> 
> 
> Lesson learned. Accidents happen.
> 
> 
> One of the frequent questions posted on this forum - should I buy an OEM lamp or a generic clone bulb replacement? The answer you're always better off with an original OEM lamp.
> 
> 
> Provantage sells the lamp for $223.
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~7DYM905T.htm
> 
> 
> But that's still too much and you want a cheaper solution? Most comments on PureGlare (the usual reseller on Best Buy) are negative. Pureglare is sometimes confused with Pureland Supply which also sells aftermarket lamps - the difference being the brand of bulb used. If you're going with something other than the original OEM lamp you want to look for a replacement that uses the original OSRAM bulb. This gives you the best chance of getting something that will not fail prematurely.
> 
> https://www.purelandsupply.com/v13h010l49-epson-projector-lamp.html
> 
> 
> $185 still too much? Again the same advice - make sure the bulb is a genuine OSRAM bulb for best chance of success.
> 
> http://www.projectorquest.com/v13h010l49.html
> 
> 
> Here's a link to an earlier related post in this thread.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8100#post_23372737
> 
> 
> Good luck on your decision.



Coming back for an update. I bought my genie lamp back in January 14'.


My thoughts are now.. I can't stand it anymore. The dimness of light and dullness of colors is now to the point of irritating. Sure.. there still is a usable picture, but the quality of the picture is just not doing the 8350 justice. Dark scenes are almost unwatchable...but are tolerated because I know the price I paid and the fact of my large screen and throw distance. I've tried all the adjustments I can try to no avail to get a "nice enough" picture.


I do have 1340 hours on the genie though.


Now my quest is either to buy a real Epson lamp for $230ish or again, try and cheap out and go with the pureland OSRAM bulb mentioned above. No more genie lamps or those types of lamps again, even though, at the time, I was thrilled with paying the low price and didn't really have a choice as funds were low at the time.


So...question....how have people faired with the pureland OSRAM lamp??


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j-bo*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24717338
> 
> 
> 
> Coming back for an update. I bought my genie lamp back in January 14'.
> 
> 
> My thoughts are now.. I can't stand it anymore. The dimness of light and dullness of colors is now to the point of irritating. Sure.. there still is a usable picture, but the quality of the picture is just not doing the 8350 justice. Dark scenes are almost unwatchable...but are tolerated because I know the price I paid and the fact of my large screen and throw distance. I've tried all the adjustments I can try to no avail to get a "nice enough" picture.
> 
> 
> I do have 1340 hours on the genie though.
> 
> 
> Now my quest is either to buy a real Epson lamp for $230ish or again, try and cheap out and go with the pureland OSRAM bulb mentioned above. No more genie lamps or those types of lamps again, even though, at the time, I was thrilled with paying the low price and didn't really have a choice as funds were low at the time.
> 
> 
> So...question....how have people faired with the pureland OSRAM lamp??



On the basis of this one review (on the Pureland website) I would rethink going with a Pureland bulb and spend a little more on the Provantage OEM lamp.



> Quote:
> Dec 16, 2013 Mike from Massachusetts, USA
> 
> I purchased an Epson 8350 replacement lamp from them. It installed well, and worked great... for 2.5 months, when it failed completely.
> 
> 
> Now, I get that things happen, but my experience with them was not good. First I had to utterly convince them it was broken (the night before I went through about an hour of troubleshooting, including re-inserting my original dim bulb, which clearly proved that their lamp was broken). Then they asked how often I cleaned the filter (monthly), then how often I cleaned the fan. I looked around and found no information on how to do that.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, they finally agreed to do an RMA. I sent the bulb, and three weeks later, the supposedly still have not received it. Unfortunately I lost the USPS tracking number. I'm not saying they're lying, but my bottom line is that it was not cheap, but I got very little value from them.



I know one negative review does not damn the company but if I'm spending this much I'd opt for OEM.


----------



## emiliosic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24717483
> 
> 
> On the basis of this one review (on the Pureland website) I would rethink going with a Pureland bulb and spend a little more on the Provantage OEM lamp.
> 
> I know one negative review does not damn the company but if I'm spending this much I'd opt for OEM.



Genie Lamps also carries its 'Diamond' line which are also generics but with Osram or similar bulbs.

Got one of these about three months ago and works fine; but don't se the projector too often. Their customer service seems knowledgeable and friendly.


Here's there link:
http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/epson-powerlite-hc-8350-genuine-lamp/ 


And some infomercial about these lamps:
http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/Diamond-Lamps/ 


In my short experience with these; it works fine. No issues installing it and so far it runs fine


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emiliosic*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24720121
> 
> 
> Genie Lamps also carries its 'Diamond' line which are also generics but with Osram or similar bulbs.
> 
> Got one of these about three months ago and works fine; but don't se the projector too often. Their customer service seems knowledgeable and friendly.
> 
> 
> Here's there link:
> http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/epson-powerlite-hc-8350-genuine-lamp/
> 
> 
> And some infomercial about these lamps:
> http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/Diamond-Lamps/
> 
> 
> In my short experience with these; it works fine. No issues installing it and so far it runs fine



Interesting... seems there are quite a few companies offering this type of lamp.


Do you think these OSRAM lamps are the same as the E-TORL lamps?


I have sent an email to Genie to see what they say.


Anyone using these types of replacement lamps?


And.. is the provantage lamp a genuine EPSON lamp? I can't find if they are an authorized reseller.


Think I must go with a genuine lamp and quit screwing around.


----------



## obonillaf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aijuswannasing*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7710#post_22822632
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now... my "problem"...
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed there is a gradual darkening from left to right of my screen image on a full black screen. ie: the left side is slightly brighter than the right.



Hi. Did you manage to fix your "more brightness at the left" problem? I have an Epson 5030 and I'm having the same problem with my new Elite Cinegrey 5D screen...


----------



## j-bo

Lesson learned. Ordered with Provantage to save the $20 over projectorpeople. Order sat for 5 days "in progress". Called PP to match price, no problem. Shipping out tomorrow, be here Thursday. Gotta love that type of service.


Called provantage to cancel.. they didn't care less I was cancelling.


I did order OEM lamp after lots of reading and did get email back from Diamond Lamps. They assured me the performance and brightness would be identical to the OEM factory Epson lamp and would save me $45. I didn't want to take the risk.


Here is a good website they sent me thought to "spot a fake original lamp" and thought it was very interesting and covers a variety of lamps.

How to spot a fake/counterfeit project lamps


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

A few days ago I sold my Sanyo Z700 projector and decided to buy the 8350 refurb from VisualApex for $899. I just got it today and watched the Dark Knight right away. Everything looked good when I was watching that as I thought it would. My question is now, I hooked up my PS4 and was playing MLB 14 The Show and things just didn't look right. It seemed to bright, front lettering would be clear but back lettering was blurry. I didn't have this issue on my Sanyo and I didn't really calibrate that one either. The lens is clear so I can't think that would be an issue. I took some pictures to show a few things. 1 of them I made completely blurry and see these red specs everywhere. I'm not sure if I'm just crazy or is there something actually wrong. If something is wrong, do I call VisualApex or Epson? What do you guys think? With my Sanyo, I only had to focus it 1 time and it was solid. I've read on here that people need to keep refocusing, which seems weird to me that it would keep doing it.


 
 
 
 



I can take more pictures if it would help.


Throw is14-15ft

Screen 1.1


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Skiingmaniac00*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24741323
> 
> 
> A few days ago I sold my Sanyo Z700 projector and decided to buy the 8350 refurb from VisualApex for $899. I just got it today and watched the Dark Knight right away. Everything looked good when I was watching that as I thought it would. My question is now, I hooked up my PS4 and was playing MLB 14 The Show and things just didn't look right. It seemed to bright, front lettering would be clear but back lettering was blurry. I didn't have this issue on my Sanyo and I didn't really calibrate that one either. The lens is clear so I can't think that would be an issue. I took some pictures to show a few things. 1 of them I made completely blurry and see these red specs everywhere. I'm not sure if I'm just crazy or is there something actually wrong. If something is wrong, do I call VisualApex or Epson? What do you guys think? With my Sanyo, I only had to focus it 1 time and it was solid. I've read on here that people need to keep refocusing, which seems weird to me that it would keep doing it.
> 
> 
> I can take more pictures if it would help.



The panels are out of alignment. Return it.


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Return it to visualApex or to Epson? I'm watching HDTV and the picture quality is bad, almost like watching it 480i and not 1080 which it is.



Update: I just called Epson before they closed for the day and they are shipping me another unit, should be here by Thursday. Hopefully that one is better.


Thanks Mr. G


----------



## a1usedcomp

I just picked up a 8350 and will be setting it up this weekend , problem is for me to mount the projector dead center on the rear wall wont happen because of a window .


I would be 33" off to the side "wall mounted " is this going to be an issue ?


----------



## j-bo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24741912
> 
> 
> I just picked up a 8350 and will be setting it up this weekend , problem is for me to mount the projector dead center on the rear wall wont happen because of a window .
> 
> 
> I would be 33" off to the side "wall mounted " is this going to be an issue ?



Depends on high large your screen is and what your throw length is.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Throw will be 12ft and the screen will be 100" also I have a ceiling fan in the path now so I will have to wall mount and go lower to avoid the ceiling fan which is 15" from the ceiling . Looks like the Omni wall shelf will have to be 25" from the ceiling to fix this issue .


I also put the projector on a ladder and checked everything out the lens shift will be fine .




Anyone use the wireless HDMI ? how does it work


----------



## kjr39

Quick question, just picked up a new bulb and on starting it up, there are dark vertical bands across the screen. I did pull the connections and the projector has the bands without anything, so I know that it's the signal. Thoughts?


----------



## Sonofawhatthe


Sorry about that MississippiMan! Great point. I purchased a Sanus VMPR1 as the guy at the big box told me that it would fit. Well.. it fits but it's not exactly a swell fit. As you can see in this post from  sksahai   http://www.avsforum.com/t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/7590#post_22676825  they only give you two extensions so you have to mount with center of gravity to one side. 

 

I've got it mounted but now I'm thinking I'd probably have a better solution if I used the optional "downspout" extension as sksahai's pictures show. I mounted it without it. That extra 12" down from the ceiling would probably help center the picture better. 

 

Right now my picture is a bit ****-eyed and it's not as big as the one thrown from the old projector. I need to download the manual and start tweaking the picture. 

 

The Sanus mount is "flexible" but that's also part of its problem. It doesn't feel like it's really solid. The "quick release" aspect of it is terrifying. The idea being that you can take down the plate and projector for cleaning / bulb changing and rehang without having to readjust all the fine tuning. I'd rather readjust than have the thing fall off when one of the kids puts on a lens cap!


----------



## mike734




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanRadmacher*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8610#post_24555111
> 
> 
> I found an Epson 8350 on eBay for a good price for my basement home theater. When it came, though, it wouldn’t power up, giving me a bad lamp indicator. The seller was cooperative, offering to take the return. I suggested he could just send me a new lamp if he’d prefer. He did that, and it worked great.
> 
> 
> A day or two ago, though, I noticed the picture was kind of flickering. It’s not a rhythmic thing. More intermittent. It will darken, then lighten, then flicker a few times in a second.
> 
> 
> Does that sound like a bad lamp or something else?
> 
> 
> I put up the projector before all the construction was finished, so there’s probably been a fair amount of dust down here. Should I try to take some compressed air to the vents?
> 
> 
> Any other thoughts? The HDMI connections all seem good.



Sorry if this has already been answered but it sounds like an auto-iris issue. I turned mine off because the changing brightness was too noticeable and annoying.


----------



## mike734

Just a follow up on bulb replacement. I have no complaints on the cheaper one from Pureland Supply https://www.purelandsupply.com/v13h010l49-epson-projector-lamp.html 

Definitely not a $59 bulb but much cheaper than the OEM Epson bulb. I like it!


----------



## a1usedcomp

I just got my projector all setup and have a hum , if I unplug the HDMI it goes away . If I run a extension cord to the same outlet all the rest of my gear is on its dead quite .


If I use a cheater plug on the projector the hum also goes away


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24765930
> 
> 
> I just got my projector all setup and have a hum , if I unplug the HDMI it goes away . If I run a extension cord to the same outlet all the rest of my gear is on its dead quite. If I use a cheater plug on the projector the hum also goes away



You have a ground loop.


> Quote:
> When two or more devices are connected to a common ground through different paths, a ground loop occurs. Currents flow through these multiple paths and develop voltages which can cause damage, noise or 50Hz/60Hz hum in audio or video equipment. To prevent ground loops, all signal grounds need to go to one common point and when two grounding points cannot be avoided, one side must isolate the signal and grounds from the other.



Read more at: http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html 

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/ground-loops-eliminating-system-hum-and-buzz 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_%28electricity%29 

http://www.siber-sonic.com/electronics/GLoopFix.html


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike734*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8640#post_24756298
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has already been answered but it sounds like an auto-iris issue. I turned mine off because the changing brightness was too noticeable and annoying.



The problem is more likely lamp flicker. Try running it in high power mode to see if the flicker disappears, if it does run this way for several hours then switch back to eco mode. Hopefully this cures your problem.


Here is an engineer quote from elsewhere on AVS Forum:


> Quote:
> To understand lamp flicker, you need to know a little about how mercury arc lamps work. First of all, there is no filament (a thin, typically tungsten wire) inside of an arc lamp. Instead, there are two tungsten electrodes spaced a small distance apart (called the arc gap) in a mercury vapor. When the lamp strikes, this gap is bridged by a plasma arc. This plasma arc, running at over 7000 degrees Celsius, is the light source of the projection system. Over time, the plasma arc slowly burns away the electrodes, causing the gap to get larger and the projector to get dimmer (the smaller the arc the better the lamp reflector collects the light). This burning also causes the electrodes to become smooth and this smoothness leads to a tendency for the arc to move around, jumping from spot to spot as it tries to find its least energy point. Plasma arcs are lazy and always hunt for the smallest distance between the electrodes to conserve energy. As the electrodes wear back, there can exist situations where there are two such places on the electrodes. The jumping back and forth between these two places is known as arc-jump, and is the predominant form of lamp flicker that will be seen in our products.
> 
> 
> Lamp flicker takes the form of a brightening and darkening of the image at irregular intervals. This issue can be confused with some copy protection methods on DVDs and video tapes which cause a brightening and darkening at regular intervals. If you think you are seeing lamp flicker, the best way to make sure is to confirm that it still occurs when watching the projector's internally generated blank screen (push the blank button on the remote), and that way you know it is not in your source. Also, if you occassionally see very quick flashes of light in the image similar to a strobe effect, then this is not lamp flicker.
> 
> 
> If you observe lamp flicker, there are a number of things you can do.
> 
> 
> 1. Wait. Once the electrodes burn back a little more the lamp flicker should go away.
> 
> 2. Go to high power mode. Changing the power setting of the projector will usually cause the arc to stabilize because the arc will take a slightly different shape due to the mercury convection changes around the arc. If you leave the projector at this power setting for a number of hours, the electrodes will be reshaped slightly and the lowest energy point will move. Once it moves, then you can return to low power and the flicker will be gone.
> 
> 3. Magnetic fields and gravity also affect the arc, so moving the projector, turning it upside down, or even putting a magnet against it can stabilize the arc in a different location. Again, leaving it in this way for a while will allow you to use it while the electrodes reshape themselves.


----------



## kehakas

I'm looking for some feedback on an issue I'm having since I installed a new lamp. Photos are attached. Epson is convinced the projector is at fault and they're sending me an in-warranty replacement, but I'd still like to figure out what the deal is, because I'm curious like that. Here goes:


My old lamp died. I bought an original Epson lamp from B&H to replace it. I installed the replacement lamp, which is something I've done before with no problem. During installation, I changed nothing about the projector itself, or the software settings. When I fire up the new lamp, the image has a horizontal line through the middle, something I'd describe as a "fold" or a "bevel." There's also a faint horizontal line near the top, which you can see in the 25 percent gray image. The image above the line seems to be a little more saturated. The image below the line is less saturated, and also maybe kinda grainy?


I'm 99 percent certain it's the same issue as these people had: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1358521/epson-8350-bulb-replacement-and-now-picture-problem 


I guess I'm just wondering if anyone here knows what's going on. I'm a little worried about Epson sending a replacement, because I've read these boards a lot, and it seems like replacements are usually refurbished, and it's a crapshoot whether you'll get one with good convergence, etc.


If a lamp is just a light source, then I don't see how the lamp could be at fault here, but it's also the only thing I changed about the projector so I can't imagine what else it could be.


Thanks for your time. I'm really grateful for these boards and the helpful people on them.


Also, just fyi, the second image is from The City Limits on Vimeo, which I find to be a short and sweet demo video when I'm showing off the PJ: 





EDIT: Found another thread about it: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1186545/epson-1080-ub-horizontal-split-image-problem 


EDIT: Pay no attention to the discoloration in the gray image; that's a separate issue I detailed here.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8670#post_24767857
> 
> 
> I'm looking for some feedback on an issue I'm having since I installed a new lamp. Photos are attached. Epson is convinced the projector is at fault and they're sending me an in-warranty replacement, but I'd still like to figure out what the deal is, because I'm curious like that. Here goes:
> 
> 
> My old lamp died. I bought an original Epson lamp from B&H to replace it. I installed the replacement lamp, which is something I've done before with no problem. During installation, I changed nothing about the projector itself, or the software settings. When I fire up the new lamp, the image has a horizontal line through the middle, something I'd describe as a "fold" or a "bevel." There's also a faint horizontal line near the top, which you can see in the 25 percent gray image. The image above the line seems to be a little more saturated. The image below the line is less saturated, and also maybe kinda grainy?
> 
> 
> I'm 99 percent certain it's the same issue as these people had: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1358521/epson-8350-bulb-replacement-and-now-picture-problem
> 
> 
> I guess I'm just wondering if anyone here knows what's going on. I'm a little worried about Epson sending a replacement, because I've read these boards a lot, and it seems like replacements are usually refurbished, and it's a crapshoot whether you'll get one with good convergence, etc.
> 
> 
> If a lamp is just a light source, then I don't see how the lamp could be at fault here, but it's also the only thing I changed about the projector so I can't imagine what else it could be.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time. I'm really grateful for these boards and the helpful people on them.
> 
> 
> Also, just fyi, the second image is from The City Limits on Vimeo, which I find to be a short and sweet demo video when I'm showing off the PJ:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Pay no attention to the discoloration in the gray image; that's a separate issue I detailed here.


It appears to be a malfunction in the digital processing circuit. It seems too exact to be an optical-light-engine problem. Maybe circuit is being damaged when bulb blows or it's just a common failure. There might be two video sub-processors that each work half the screen. Normally, they get stitched together pixel perfect (but not now).

 

I think Epson Level-2 Techs would have to get involved and maybe capture a bad unit. However, they might already know about it. that's why they are sending a new unit because it's a non-bulb-issue. Also, on this bad unit, be sure to try a different 1080p source, with new HDMI cable, into other HDMI-2 Input.

 

If you had two 8350's (one working perfectly) ... you might be able to swap bulbs and see where the problem follows.

 

I would be very interested to see what happens on this (here, or in the other thread).


----------



## kehakas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tesla1856*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8670#post_24768023
> 
> 
> Also, one this bad unit, be sure to try a different 1080p source, with new HDMI cable, into other HDMI-2 Input.



Yeah, I got the same results on a different HDMI port, different cable, different source (iPad vs. PS3). So I suppose it could be a problem with both HDMI inputs.


If I learn anything from Epson, I'll share it here.


----------



## Tesla1856




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kehakas*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8670#post_24768079
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I got the same results on a different HDMI port, different cable, different source (iPad vs. PS3). So I suppose it could be a problem with both HDMI inputs.


Good thinking to try it already. Sorry, but had to ask (never know people's skill level here).

 

Right, or past all HDMI inputs ... in main video processing circuit.


----------



## kehakas

Just for kicks, I played with the projection settings (Front, Front/Ceiling, Rear, Rear/Ceiling) but the effect never got flipped or inverted, so it's independent of that.


----------



## kehakas

Can anyone offer insight on whether a lamp could cause a defined horizontal line on the image? Or is the lamp just a light source?


----------



## penusmeanly

I had this exact issue with a new lamp, the image is slightly dark in the top 50% of the screen creating a horizontal line in the middle of the screen.


Theres a thread about it here :
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1186545/epson-1080-ub-horizontal-split-image-problem 


After about 50 hours use in Normal mode the line appears to have gone......i hope


----------



## faxmonkey

I'm about to order an OEM Epson lamp from Provantage, from a link in a previous post.

At checkout I noticed that the description states the following:


EPSON Replacement Projector Lamp Unit Home 6100 6500 7100


There's no mention of the 8350. I called Epson and they told me that the part # is ELPLP49. Provantage couldn't reference that.


Could someone shed some light into this matter?


Link from a previous post:

http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~BDYM905T.htm


----------



## Mr.G




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *faxmonkey*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8670#post_24788879
> 
> 
> I'm about to order an OEM Epson lamp from Provantage, from a link in a previous post.
> 
> At checkout I noticed that the description states the following:
> 
> 
> EPSON Replacement Projector Lamp Unit Home 6100 6500 7100
> 
> 
> There's no mention of the 8350. I called Epson and they told me that the part # is ELPLP49. Provantage couldn't reference that.
> 
> 
> Could someone shed some light into this matter?
> 
> 
> Link from a previous post:
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~BDYM905T.htm



If you click the Specifications tab you will see the reference to ELPLP49. Epson has been using this same lamp in many of their projectors going back to 2008 as evidenced by all the different models.

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/ProductQuickSpec.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=63079290&category=Products


----------



## faxmonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr.G*  /t/1280137/the-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread/8670#post_24791948
> 
> 
> If you click the Specifications tab you will see the reference to ELPLP49. Epson has been using this same lamp in many of their projectors going back to 2008 as evidenced by all the different models.
> 
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/ProductQuickSpec.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=63079290&category=Products



Thank you!


----------



## norymeoreason41

Hi everyone! Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience with this projector. I've been using it for about a 1.5 yrs with very few complaints. Great projector for the $.


With that said, there is one issue I've kind of dealt with since day 1, and am curious if others have the same experience. When viewing bluray through PS3, the image quality is excellent with great shadow detail and contrast. My problem is when viewing content from my cable box (U-Verse). Aside from the obvious resolution/artifacts you'd expect from cable, shadow detail takes a huge hit. Almost to the point where I feel like I miss parts of dark scenes. For example, on this week's Game of Thrones episode - much of the fighting occurred in a very dark setting and I could barely follow what was going on. It was watchable, but just barely. If I try to increase the brightness, it just makes the same picture, only more gray instead of black.


Has anyone experienced this? Any tips on improving picture quality from a cable box as the source?


Thank you all again!


----------



## jdag

Hello. I recently purchased the 8350 to replace a BenQ W1000. I haven't watched much yet, but overall happy with the upgrade.

Does the 8350 have user-upgradable firmware? I've done some searching and have yet to find any mention of firmware.

Thanks in advance, John


----------



## Mr.G

jdag said:


> Hello. I recently purchased the 8350 to replace a BenQ W1000. I haven't watched much yet, but overall happy with the upgrade.
> 
> Does the 8350 have user-upgradable firmware? I've done some searching and have yet to find any mention of firmware.
> 
> Thanks in advance, John


Nope.


----------



## jdag

Mr.G said:


> jdag said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello. I recently purchased the 8350 to replace a BenQ W1000. I haven't watched much yet, but overall happy with the upgrade.
> 
> Does the 8350 have user-upgradable firmware? I've done some searching and have yet to find any mention of firmware.
> 
> Thanks in advance, John
> 
> 
> 
> Nope.
Click to expand...

Thank you for confirming.


----------



## a1usedcomp

anyone hear a clumping noise on and off from the 8350


----------



## F12Bwth

The new look... NOOOOOOOO!


----------



## Mr.G

a1usedcomp said:


> anyone hear a clumping noise on and off from the 8350


Try turning off the auto iris to see if the sound goes away.


----------



## norymeoreason41

norymeoreason41 said:


> Hi everyone! Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience with this projector. I've been using it for about a 1.5 yrs with very few complaints. Great projector for the $.
> 
> With that said, there is one issue I've kind of dealt with since day 1, and am curious if others have the same experience. When viewing bluray through PS3, the image quality is excellent with great shadow detail and contrast. My problem is when viewing content from my cable box (U-Verse). Aside from the obvious resolution/artifacts you'd expect from cable, shadow detail takes a huge hit. Almost to the point where I feel like I miss parts of dark scenes. For example, on this week's Game of Thrones episode - much of the fighting occurred in a very dark setting and I could barely follow what was going on. It was watchable, but just barely. If I try to increase the brightness, it just makes the same picture, only more gray instead of black.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this? Any tips on improving picture quality from a cable box as the source?
> 
> Thank you all again!


Bumping to see if anyone has experienced this before. With this projector or any other. . .


----------



## a1usedcomp

Mr.G said:


> Try turning off the auto iris to see if the sound goes away.



I did that last night and it stopped , but do I want this option off


----------



## rakstr

Just curious, I'm getting close to end of life for my bulb and am looking to order the replacement in advance of the "blow out", which we all know would happen in the middle of movie night or worse yet, Buckeye football 

I'm seeing some substantial price variations. Is there any reason to NOT buy these? Rakuten I believe is formerly buy.com which I used to frequent!

http://www.rakuten.com/prod/epson-p...s&adid=29963&gclid=CKSJ0-eChr8CFQIT7AoddFcAkQ
http://www.projectorlampsworld.com/...or-lamp.html?gclid=CNnfoPyBhr8CFUcV7AodzXsAGg
https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/V13H010L49?gclid=CLqEzumChr8CFQIT7AoddFcAkQ


faxmonkey said:


> I'm about to order an OEM Epson lamp from Provantage, from a link in a previous post.
> At checkout I noticed that the description states the following:
> 
> EPSON Replacement Projector Lamp Unit Home 6100 6500 7100
> 
> There's no mention of the 8350. I called Epson and they told me that the part # is ELPLP49. Provantage couldn't reference that.
> 
> Could someone shed some light into this matter?
> 
> Link from a previous post:
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~BDYM905T.htm


----------



## Mr.G

a1usedcomp said:


> I did that last night and it stopped, but do I want this option off


Some people with the auto iris set to off say that they hardly notice a difference in picture quality. 

Your other option is to send the 8350 in for repair, which means getting a refurb from Epson.


----------



## Mr.G

norymeoreason41 said:


> Hi everyone! Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience with this projector. I've been using it for about a 1.5 yrs with very few complaints. Great projector for the $.
> 
> With that said, there is one issue I've kind of dealt with since day 1, and am curious if others have the same experience. When viewing bluray through PS3, the image quality is excellent with great shadow detail and contrast. My problem is when viewing content from my cable box (U-Verse). Aside from the obvious resolution/artifacts you'd expect from cable, shadow detail takes a huge hit. Almost to the point where I feel like I miss parts of dark scenes. For example, on this week's Game of Thrones episode - much of the fighting occurred in a very dark setting and I could barely follow what was going on. It was watchable, but just barely. If I try to increase the brightness, it just makes the same picture, only more gray instead of black.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this? Any tips on improving picture quality from a cable box as the source?
> 
> Thank you all again!


I think you've proven the projector is fine, but you leave out pertinent details on your setup. Do you run all of your HDMI connected devices through a receiver? Are you running more than one HDMI cable to the projector?

It's also possible that the cable box is defective. Try exchanging it for another and possibly an improved model.


----------



## Mr.G

rakstr said:


> Just curious, I'm getting close to end of life for my bulb and am looking to order the replacement in advance of the "blow out", which we all know would happen in the middle of movie night or worse yet, Buckeye football
> 
> I'm seeing some substantial price variations. Is there any reason to NOT buy these? Rakuten I believe is formerly buy.com which I used to frequent!
> 
> http://www.rakuten.com/prod/epson-p...s&adid=29963&gclid=CKSJ0-eChr8CFQIT7AoddFcAkQ
> http://www.projectorlampsworld.com/...or-lamp.html?gclid=CNnfoPyBhr8CFUcV7AodzXsAGg
> https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/V13H010L49?gclid=CLqEzumChr8CFQIT7AoddFcAkQ


They are all clones or generic replacement lamps with no mention of the type of bulb used. That's why they are inexpensive.

The choice is yours. Buy the more expensive OEM lamp or roll the dice with one of these.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Mr.G said:


> Some people with the auto iris set to off say that they hardly notice a difference in picture quality.
> 
> Your other option is to send the 8350 in for repair, which means getting a refurb from Epson.



are you saying the 8350 should be noise free at ft ?


----------



## rakstr

Given there's been a number of years behind these lamps and the 8350, are there not any report outs of using these lamps? By now I'd think that we'd have some reviews!



Mr.G said:


> They are all clones or generic replacement lamps with no mention of the type of bulb used. That's why they are inexpensive.
> 
> The choice is yours. Buy the more expensive OEM lamp or roll the dice with one of these.


----------



## Mr.G

rakstr said:


> Given there's been a number of years behind these lamps and the 8350, are there not any report outs of using these lamps? By now I'd think that we'd have some reviews!


Here's the problem, there are many many vendors that sell clone lamps. So there is virtually no track record on any one seller.

And the reviews on the inexpensive lamps are usually negative. Occasionally you'll see a review in this thread from someone who is satisfied with their clone lamp purchase but they are the exception. If you are intent on buying a clone lamp at least make sure the bulb inside is Osram or Philips which is what is generally used in OEM lamps. However I doubt very much you find a clone lamp with an Osram or Philips bulb for under $100.


----------



## Mr.G

a1usedcomp said:


> are you saying the 8350 should be noise free at ft ?


I'm sorry, I don't understand your question.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Mr.G said:


> I'm sorry, I don't understand your question.


 noise free at 5ft away sorry


----------



## rakstr

Just trying to understand, that's all. I haven't seen many reviews so I need to dig in to see what the trend is. Longevity? Color correctness? Uniformity?, ... I'm always curious when things range 3-4X in price!!!!!



Mr.G said:


> Here's the problem, there are many many vendors that sell clone lamps. So there is virtually no track record on any one seller.
> 
> And the reviews on the inexpensive lamps are usually negative. Occasionally you'll see a review in this thread from someone who is satisfied with their clone lamp purchase but they are the exception. If you are intent on buying a clone lamp at least make sure the bulb inside is Osram or Philips which is what is generally used in OEM lamps. However I doubt very much you find a clone lamp with an Osram or Philips bulb for under $100.


----------



## Mr.G

a1usedcomp said:


> noise free at 5ft away sorry


Projector reviews for the 8350 list the dB noise levels as 28 dB in standard mode and 22 dB in eco mode. So no, it's not totally silent.


----------



## Mr.G

rakstr said:


> Just trying to understand, that's all. I haven't seen many reviews so I need to dig in to see what the trend is. Longevity? Color correctness? Uniformity?, ... I'm always curious when things range 3-4X in price!!!!!


The number one complaint is brightness, number two is longevity.

I should add for your information, from elsewhere on the internet:

*Who Makes Projector Lamps?*

High quality projector lamps that meet industry standards are only made by a few projector lamp manufacturers in the world. Manufacturing projector lamps is an incredibly expensive and challenging technological process that only a few companies are able to meet.

The major manufacturers in the projector lamp industry are -

*Philips* - The pioneer of the projector lamp world. In 1995 they began researching and developing the first metal halide lamps. They eventually developed a mercury vapor projector lamp, which they called a UHP lamp or ultra-high pressure mercury vapor. The new development made it possible for projection systems to emit a brightness never before seen, and made digital projectors possible. Philips remains a dominant force in the projector lamp industry, and some estimates indicate Philips has more than 70% control over the projector lamp manufacturing and sales market today worldwide.

*Ushio* - Founded in Japan, but now with offices around the world, Ushio manufactures hundreds of different industrial lights, lamps and bulbs. The company started in1964 as an industrial light manufacturer. Ushio manufactures projector lamps for Sony, Sanyo, BenQ, and many other companies. Estimates indicate they have a 10% share in the projector lamp market.

*Osram* - Osram started in Germany. The company specializes in producing the ARC tube in mercury vapor lamps and metal halide lamps. Osram claims to be the second largest lighting manufacturer in the world, with about a 7% market share.

*The Others* - There’s a handful of projector lamp manufacturers in Taiwan, Japan, and China. The most notable is Matsushita, which is a subsidiary of Epson and manufacturers all of Epson's lamps. Most smaller manufacturers of projector lamps don’t produce high quality lamps and aren’t commonly found in new projectors.


----------



## rakstr

BTW, my Dad did 40+ years for GE Lamp Division, Nela Park, Cleveland Ohio  He made the machines that made the lamps!

THANKS for the info, and that's NOT sarcastic!!!!!



Mr.G said:


> The number one complaint is brightness, number two is longevity.
> 
> I should add for your information, from elsewhere on the internet:
> 
> *Who Makes Projector Lamps?*
> 
> High quality projector lamps that meet industry standards are only made by a few projector lamp manufacturers in the world. Manufacturing projector lamps is an incredibly expensive and challenging technological process that only a few companies are able to meet.
> 
> The major manufacturers in the projector lamp industry are -
> 
> *Philips* - The pioneer of the projector lamp world. In 1995 they began researching and developing the first metal halide lamps. They eventually developed a mercury vapor projector lamp, which they called a UHP lamp or ultra-high pressure mercury vapor. The new development made it possible for projection systems to emit a brightness never before seen, and made digital projectors possible. Philips remains a dominant force in the projector lamp industry, and some estimates indicate Philips has more than 70% control over the projector lamp manufacturing and sales market today worldwide.
> 
> *Ushio* - Founded in Japan, but now with offices around the world, Ushio manufactures hundreds of different industrial lights, lamps and bulbs. The company started in1964 as an industrial light manufacturer. Ushio manufactures projector lamps for Sony, Sanyo, BenQ, and many other companies. Estimates indicate they have a 10% share in the projector lamp market.
> 
> *Osram* - Osram started in Germany. The company specializes in producing the ARC tube in mercury vapor lamps and metal halide lamps. Osram claims to be the second largest lighting manufacturer in the world, with about a 7% market share.
> 
> *The Others* - There’s a handful of projector lamp manufacturers in Taiwan, Japan, and China. The most notable is Matsushita, which is a subsidiary of Epson and manufacturers all of Epson's lamps. Most smaller manufacturers of projector lamps don’t produce high quality lamps and aren’t commonly found in new projectors.


----------



## mach250

Where have people been getting replacement lamps lately with good results? I ordered one of the off brands of amazon a while back and it's been flickering quite a bit lately so I know it's close to the end now...

Edit, went and looked and I ordered this one last June 11th http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TAGX0U/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Mr.G

mach250 said:


> Where have people been getting replacement lamps lately with good results? I ordered one of the off brands of amazon a while back and it's been flickering quite a bit lately so I know it's close to the end now...
> 
> Edit, went and looked and I ordered this one last June 11th http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TAGX0U/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


If you are talking about an OEM lamp, then Provantage. A company I (and others) have dealt with and highly recommend.

http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~BDYM905T.htm


----------



## aijuswannasing

*first replacement coming*

So after a year and a half of projection bliss, my 8350 bit the dust the other night, unexpectedly. The day before it made a rapid "clicking" noise during startup, twice, and then yesterday I attempted to record the sound on my phone but I instead was greeted by a halting "grind", two blinking lights, and a very loud fan noise. I believe it's the auto-iris. Its funny because I don't remember having it on, but oh well.

Epson was very prompt on the phone, I swear it was a five minute call and I have a refurbished replacement heading my way. I have my fingers crossed that this one will be as near perfect as my first - I had a slight convergence issue but other than that, it was perfect.

I was wondering, and it's probably been asked - would they make a fuss if I pop out the old lamp and keep it as a spare before sending back the defunct unit? As I'm sure its an auto iris problem, I'm sure the old lamp should still be fine. 

Also, now I've only got 6 months left in the the 2 year warranty - should anything like this happen again afterwards, has anyone had success getting extended support via their credit card coverage?


----------



## pkriengsiri

OEM bulb on my 8350 died today after only about 10 months and 1050 hours (it's used as my main TV). The original bulb that came with it lasted around 2400 hours and over 2 years. Really feel let down by this, seems more like the performance I should expect out of a cheap knock off not an expensive OEM.

Has anyone been able to successfully get Epson to replace a lamp like this outside of the 90 day warranty period? I'm curious if it's worth my time to call support and plead my case on the short life span, or if they're just going to tell me to go pound sand.

I've also been thinking about getting a replacement projector anyway, a refurb 5020 from VA. Do those bulbs tend to be a little more robust? Browsing through this thread, people seem to have a lot of Epson bulbs blowing early. Most everyone seemed to have good luck getting them replaced, however those projectors were still under warranty themselves. My 8350 is about 4 years old now.


----------



## wormraper

pkriengsiri said:


> OEM bulb on my 8350 died today after only about 10 months and 1050 hours (it's used as my main TV). The original bulb that came with it lasted around 2400 hours and over 2 years. Really feel let down by this, seems more like the performance I should expect out of a cheap knock off not an expensive OEM.
> 
> Has anyone been able to successfully get Epson to replace a lamp like this outside of the 90 day warranty period? I'm curious if it's worth my time to call support and plead my case on the short life span, or if they're just going to tell me to go pound sand.
> 
> I've also been thinking about getting a replacement projector anyway, a refurb 5020 from VA. Do those bulbs tend to be a little more robust? Browsing through this thread, people seem to have a lot of Epson bulbs blowing early. Most everyone seemed to have good luck getting them replaced, however those projectors were still under warranty themselves. My 8350 is about 4 years old now.


bulbs are always a crapshoot. they can last 2000 hours, 1000 hours or 5,000 hours and that's off of the same "batch"


----------



## rakstr

This is precisely why I'm considering the "after market" bulbs at one quarter the price! There are only so many places that actually make the lamp although I'll admit I haven't research that recently. I do know I've replaced more of my "10 year" CFLs in the past 3 years than I EVER remember replacing my incandescent bulbs (yes I know this has nothing directly to do with the conversation!!!!!!) 


wormraper said:


> bulbs are always a crapshoot. they can last 2000 hours, 1000 hours or 5,000 hours and that's off of the same "batch"


----------



## gazzagazza

a1usedcomp said:


> are you saying the 8350 should be noise free at ft ?


In my experience the auto-iris makes a sort of low level rattling sound when it is working. I sit only about 3 feet below the projector, and with a movie running I hardly notice it.


----------



## dthibode

Hello, I searched around and couldn't find anything. Does the Epson 8350 have a service manual? I want to fix my projector but didn't want to proceed until I read up a little. Thanks!


----------



## Defiantfrogs

*Deep color mode ps4*

Been having a strange issue while using my ps4 with the epson 8350.
At first I thought it was my ps4 so I sent it in to be warrantied, got a new one back and it's doing the same thing so I'm afraid it's the projector. 

Has anyone else had an issue where the screen goes black for a second and comes back with multicolored snow? It's the strangest effect, looks just like old tv no signal snow but with color in the mix, sometimes it will appear as a small box multicolored square, It only does this with the ps4 While my ps4 was shipped off I had my computer connected for two weeks straight and never had the issue reoccur. 

I may have it tracked down to a deep color option in the ps4, so far with it off I have not had a problem but haven't had a chance to test it extensively. 

Any opinions on what might be going on?


EDIT: just wanted to add that the issue is intermittent for about 5-15 seconds then picture comes back fine.


----------



## Mr.G

Defiantfrogs said:


> Been having a strange issue while using my ps4 with the epson 8350.
> At first I thought it was my ps4 so I sent it in to be warrantied, got a new one back and it's doing the same thing so I'm afraid it's the projector.
> 
> Has anyone else had an issue where the screen goes black for a second and comes back with multicolored snow? It's the strangest effect, looks just like old tv no signal snow but with color in the mix, sometimes it will appear as a small box multicolored square, It only does this with the ps4 While my ps4 was shipped off I had my computer connected for two weeks straight and never had the issue reoccur.
> 
> I may have it tracked down to a deep color option in the ps4, so far with it off I have not had a problem but haven't had a chance to test it extensively.
> 
> Any opinions on what might be going on?
> 
> 
> EDIT: just wanted to add that the issue is intermittent for about 5-15 seconds then picture comes back fine.


It's most likely your HDMI cable. With Deep Color turned off you have decreased the amount of data that has to be transmitted. Nothing really uses Deep Color at this time so having it off is not harming anything. Another test is to turn Deep Color back on but decrease resolution from 1080p to 720p. If it works this way (with less data being transmitted) it's again telling you that the HDMI is operating right at the edge. Replace the cable if it becomes an issue again.


----------



## BlueSpecV

Defiantfrogs said:


> Been having a strange issue while using my ps4 with the epson 8350.
> At first I thought it was my ps4 so I sent it in to be warrantied, got a new one back and it's doing the same thing so I'm afraid it's the projector.
> 
> Has anyone else had an issue where the screen goes black for a second and comes back with multicolored snow? It's the strangest effect, looks just like old tv no signal snow but with color in the mix, sometimes it will appear as a small box multicolored square, It only does this with the ps4 While my ps4 was shipped off I had my computer connected for two weeks straight and never had the issue reoccur.
> 
> I may have it tracked down to a deep color option in the ps4, so far with it off I have not had a problem but haven't had a chance to test it extensively.
> 
> Any opinions on what might be going on?
> 
> 
> EDIT: just wanted to add that the issue is intermittent for about 5-15 seconds then picture comes back fine.



I get the same issue, but only when playing BF4 and only when I have to be a class (assault, engineer, etc). It sucks because you can't change your class, spawn on a teammate, etc.

I'll try changing out the HDMI cable that goes to my projector, as well as switching the deep color OFF to see if it helps.


----------



## dthibode

xccxxx said:


> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc...


I just had the exact same issue and this fixed it. Thanks for taking the time to post this solution!


----------



## JP

My EPSON 8350 is connected to a HTPC via HDMI and VIDEO is connected to my audio receiver so that I can see the on-screen display and ensure the DD and DTS Bitstreams are coming through the way I hope (my equipment resides in a separate room from the Home Theater). 


My problem is that when my wife starts up the home theater the Epson 8350 sees the VIDEO signal first and automatically displays the on-screen display for the audio receiver and it confuses her. I want it to default to HDMI always. Does anyone know if there is a way of doing this?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

My Logitech remote has a startup button which I've programmed powering on the PJ and selecting HDMI-1 as well as powering up the AVR and selecting Video-3


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

** BULB DIMMED then DIED **

I bought my 8350 in Oct 2011, had the auto-iris issue and they sent a refurb unit in July 2012 (supposedly including a new bulb). Well, the image quality in the last few weeks had become horrid - it was NOTICABLY dim and washed out. YES, I'd 'upgraded' from Cinema to Living Room mode months back as Cinema was giving fits where the lumens would be all jumpy (and folks on here said to switch out of ECON mode to correct it). Every time I went back to Cinema mode (to conserve bulb life) it would eventually become jumpy again...

So, I opened a ticket w/Epson Tech Support on Saturday as the illumination seemed to not be up to Epson's 2000 Lumen standard -- and this with fewer than 1,800 hours on their advertised 4,000 hour bulb! They had to await a CS override to do anything and asked me to call back today. Yesterday it wouldn't even light... Power on, one blue light, another (rectangular) blue light flashing for minutes followed by Red light (LED) flashing indicating REPLACE BULB according to the manual. Arghhhh....

*Today they are doing me a 1-time courtesy and sending a FREE replacement bulb!* I am very pleased! I did ask whether they should be updating their literature given total bulb failure with less than half of the advertised lamp service (hours) -- especially given that the majority of those hours were in Cinema mode, I power my Epson with an APC SmartUPS, _true_ sine-wave AC power, and have it ceiling mounted in a cool, well-ventilated basement theatre room. Point being, the unit has had a very gentle environment yet the bulb has (now) failed (what I'd call) prematurely!

This is not my first PJ, I'd had a Sony VPL10HT in 2002, Sony VPL-AW15 after that, and now the Epson 8350 with its BRIGHT 2,000 lumens and full 1080p LCD image quality! I know how to maintain a PJ. 

At this point I'm a very pleased customer -- I hope the bulb arrives quickly (stated FedEx Ground in 5-7 days) and restores the jubilance I've had for this product! Several of my friends have followed suite (after seeing mine) and purchased Epson PJs for their homes!

*How many hours are YOU achieving? How's the image quality as it ages?* This is the first I've had to stop working... usually they simply dim out at around 2,400 hours - but those were Sonys.

UPDATE: Received the lamp 07/16/14, installed, rehung (ceiling mount), and did a quick focus/centering on the screen -- ALL IS WELL! Specifically, the old lamp died with 1,759 hours of the 4,000 Epson proudly specifies in all their advertising literature. I'm glad they stood behind their product! THANKS Epson


----------



## JP

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> My Logitech remote has a startup button which I've programmed powering on the PJ and selecting HDMI-1 as well as powering up the AVR and selecting Video-3


Yea, I've sort of stayed away from that because my wife or kids will hit the button once and then expect everything to be turned on immediately. If they move the remote while the macro completes and line of sight is broken then it becomes a problem. I also don't know if the 8350 will accept an input switch almost immediately after it has powered on. I think you might have to even wait like 30 seconds for the splash screen to pass. Again, unless its just you using it I think there is room for error. If there was a way to set a default input in the menu on the projector it would sort of solve this.


----------



## Eric McEntee

Hi folks - this is an awesome thread - lots of reading... I am about half way through, but having a hard time trying to decide what to do here.

About 10 days ago BestBuy had the 8350 for $899 - so I grabbed one in store pickup as soon as I could. I am replacing a 10 year old Sanyo Z2 and wanted to see how much room I should have around it to cool it for a shelf mount - and frankly have scared myself off with all the posts about premature bulb failures. A good chunk of these posts seem like 8350's bought a year or more ago - so I have to wonder if anything has changed.

I can't really tell if there is a vocal minority with bulb failures, or if its widespread - and no one is getting 3,000+ hours out of a bulb. Great price on the pj - but if I have to buy a bulb every year - have to second guess this. My Sanyo is still on the original bulb (an anomaly for sure) - but I was just hoping an upgrade to 1080p wouldn't be so expensive to maintain. Debating if I should throw another bulb in my Z2 and save a bit more for a 5030UB or a Panny.

Thoughts? How long are your bulbs really lasting? It's killing me to have this thing sit here while I read all these posts!

Thanks for your patience with my post...


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

*SET UP your 8350 and enjoy the 1080p, its bright 2,000 lumen picture and how quiet it is!* I'm at a loss when you say you're on your original Z2 bulb after ten (10) years... assuming you're comparing THAT history against an 8350 owner having a bulb die prematurely at 1,000 or 2,000 hours in a year (depending on usage) and that your concern is the cost to replace a bulb every year, you'd have between 10,000-20,000 hours on your Z2, right? On the other hand, if you have fewer than 2,500 hours on your Z2 this would average 250 hours for each year of ten. At that rate you will NOT be buying a new bulb even for the Epson 8350 every year as you fear. 

Please explain how I'm wrong with my numbers... how many hours are on your original Z2 bulb, and if it's more than a couple o' thousand, how good is the image? 

While the 5030 uses a different bulb (280W vs 200W), it advertises 4,000/5,000 norm/Eco mode hours at 2,400 lumens... not justification for spending $2,500 (versus the $899 you paid). With the $1,600 savings you could buy an additional 8350 and 2 bulbs, some as yet unreleased PJ, or no fewer than 5 of the 8350 replacement bulbs! _ Bulb life does NOT make a strong justification for the 5030. _

The manual identifies the space requirement -- as so long as the inlet air (filter) is unobstructed you should be fine... I think that's an inch or two _across the rear_ (and the exhaust is in front).


----------



## Eric McEntee

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> *SET UP your 8350 and enjoy the 1080p, its bright 2,000 lumen picture and how quiet it is!* I'm at a loss when you say you're on your original Z2 bulb after ten (10) years... assuming you're comparing THAT history against an 8350 owner having a bulb die prematurely at 1,000 or 2,000 hours in a year (depending on usage) and that your concern is the cost to replace a bulb every year, you'd have between 10,000-20,000 hours on your Z2, right? On the other hand, if you have fewer than 2,500 hours on your Z2 this would average 250 hours for each year of ten. At that rate you will NOT be buying a new bulb even for the Epson 8350 every year as you fear.
> 
> Please explain how I'm wrong with my numbers... how many hours are on your original Z2 bulb, and if it's more than a couple o' thousand, how good is the image?
> 
> While the 5030 uses a different bulb (280W vs 200W), it advertises 4,000/5,000 norm/Eco mode hours at 2,400 lumens... not justification for spending $2,500 (versus the $899 you paid). With the $1,600 savings you could buy an additional 8350 and 2 bulbs, some as yet unreleased PJ, or no fewer than 5 of the 8350 replacement bulbs! _ Bulb life does NOT make a strong justification for the 5030. _
> 
> The manual identifies the space requirement -- as so long as the inlet air (filter) is unobstructed you should be fine... I think that's an inch or two _across the rear_ (and the exhaust is in front).


I've got 4500 hours on the original z2 bulb, and our usage has increased dramatically over the last year or two (not as much as some - but for us - now consistently about 25 hours a week - early on with the Z2 it was 1 movie a week, and football). I am sure its very dim now - but still looks great. If a Z2 bulb wasn't $200 or so and wondering how much longer I could squeeze out of it - I'd likely keep it. But that $ on a bulb toward my 8350 made more sense, esp since it was so cheap that weekend.

Thanks for your reply - I had ordered the omnimount shelf that week, and it looks like it will have about a 5 inch gap behind it, so I should be good there.

I guess I am overreacting - but hard to balance the complaints vs all the great reviews on the 8350. The Z2 has been awesome for me (maybe I was just really lucky or maybe my usage and environment will translate to long life on the 8350) - so the idea of a new bulb every year and other issues (blobs, auto iris, sounds like you even had to exchange, etc) have me a bit worried.

I need lens shift, and LCD (pretty sensitive to RBE) - so options are pretty limited for me. 

Epson says they will replace one bulb in the 2 year warranty period, so assuming I'll have to take them up on that, even if I have to buy a new one in 3-4 years its worth it.

Thanks for helping me make a final decision. Out with the drill to starting hanging things tonight!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

GLAD to help... I've had no blobs but did experience some convergence issues followed by the Auto Iris popup which prompted me to contact Epson at which point they exchanged my (then 9-month old) 8350 for a refurb. No more notification popup for Auto Iris (which I turn OFF due to my _hearing_ it work over my head), the convergence I was struggling over was _waaaaaaaay_ better, and they claim to place a new bulb in every refurbished unit. Now that they sent me a bulb I should be set for another two years. I'll reassess my options then as I do each time I'm facing a bulb purchase. BTW, I'd seen that $899 Best Buy offering -- what a DEAL! I paid nearly $1,100 w/shipping for mine and thought that was a bargain in 2011. You'll_ not_ be disappointed!


----------



## Eric McEntee

Yeah, the price surprised me so I jumped before I finished my research. I kept thinking they were going to cancel the order before I was able to pick it up - but it was there. Again, thanks for your help.


----------



## 11seashell11

*HDMI Input not working*

Everything related to the my 8350 is surge protected. We had a little rain, and a freak lightning bolt hit somewhere near us. The projector was on at the time. It went off, bet everything else in the house stayed on. Now it turns on and the HDMI inputs do not work. The video input works great. I don't have component cables with me to test that. This is what is displayed on the bottom left hand corner of the screen when HDMI 1 or 2 is selected:



> Source: HDMI1
> Not Supported
> H: --- .-- kHz V: --- .-- Hz


Any ideas what I should do? I have tried multiple HDMI devices and cables that work when I plug them into a small TV that I dragged out for testing. I have owned this projector for around 4 years now, and I have replaced the bulb twice.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

A buddy of mine had to have his 'serviced' when lightning struck... same as yours, his HDMI inputs stopped working. I don't know what to advise you since it's clearly out of the 2 year warranty... Then again, they may extend you a 1-time courtesy  I'd contact Epson and see what they'll offer. Otherwise, this could be time to buy another PJ, whether it's another 8350, 3020, or something else...

Have you tried powering it OFF, removing the cord OFF I mean, for an evening just to make sure it doesn't have a RESET it can do when totally powered off. Other than that I'd contact Epson. Although, if it'll cost you to repair/replace, switching to component input MAY work, if it does you could prolong using it with component cables.


----------



## mach250

fan sounds like its dieing, what size is it and can I just swap it out with a regular pc fan?


----------



## Mr.G

mach250 said:


> fan sounds like its dieing, what size is it and can I just swap it out with a regular pc fan?


Nope. You want to check the service menu for the condition of the fans. There is more than one fan, total of four I believe.

To access the service menu see this older post.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-376.html#post22530006


----------



## mach250

Mr.G said:


> Nope. You want to check the service menu for the condition of the fans. There is more than one fan, total of four I believe.
> 
> To access the service menu see this older post.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-376.html#post22530006


your link just sends me to the top of this page but I did a search. Heres what the three menus show me...


----------



## Mr.G

mach250 said:


> your link just sends me to the top of this page but I did a search. Heres what the three menus show me...


Yes, sorry. I wrongly assumed the menu would be like the one on my Panasonic projector where the fans are monitored.

Nonetheless there is more than one fan in the 8350 and tracking down the failing one will be more difficult.

The service manuals (and part lists) for late model Epson projectors are near impossible to locate on the internet.

There are a few fans listed on eBay, do a search for "fan epson 8350 projector".


----------



## crimsonblue

My Epson projector was a few weeks over the 2-year warranty and had an HDMI board error -- which they very kindly repaired as a one-time courtesy. The only problem is I have had THREE replacement projectors shipped to me and each has had a major problem:

*1st replacement:* Auto-Iris Error (50% of the time it is turned on)
*2nd replacement:* Ridiculously out of alignment (looked like 3D with no glasses on...it's not a 3D pj!)
*3rd replacement: *Another Auto-Iris Error (again, about half of the time I turn it on)

They did me a favor by replacing my PJ when it was a few weeks out of warranty so I don't want to be snippy, but this is absolutely ridiculous. I don't even know what the auto-iris does, but getting an error 50% of the time that doesn't allow me to use the PJ is reason enough to want to send it back to get a proper unit. 

Any advice for my call today to ask for a 4th replacement?


----------



## crimsonblue

UPDATE: Epson really came through for me. They are shipping a new 8350 to make amends for shipping 3 DOA refurbs in a row. That's top notch customer service. Assuming they keep spitting out good products (hopefully something new at CEDIA) then I'm a loyal customer.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Let me summarize... you'd been using your 8350 for over 2 years and all was well, correct? Then, your HDMI input board went haywire and Epson did a 1-time courtesy which took 3 refurbed units all of which had their own issues and now are exchanging their 3rd refurb for a brand new 8350, is that right?

So you'll be getting a 'new lease on life' having a brand new one! Those Epson folks really go the extra mile to do right by their customers. Congrats!


----------



## crimsonblue

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> Let me summarize... you'd been using your 8350 for over 2 years and all was well, correct? Then, your HDMI input board went haywire and Epson did a 1-time courtesy which took 3 refurbed units all of which had their own issues and now are exchanging their 3rd refurb for a brand new 8350, is that right?
> 
> So you'll be getting a 'new lease on life' having a brand new one! Those Epson folks really go the extra mile to do right by their customers. Congrats!


Yep -- that's exactly what happened! I never thought I'd wear out the screws on my ceiling mount hardware until these last two months! 

I am going to sheepishly ask their tech support if there is a new 2-year warranty on this model. My assumption is yes, but I don't want to be greedy after they went above and beyond. 4 years of coverage would be amazing. That would take me until 4K projectors and reasonable, and 4K content is plentiful!


----------



## diat150

anybody here replace their own lamp bulbs on the 8350? I have been trying some of the knockoff lamps but for every one that has good quality it seems 4-5 dont. I have a spare lamp enclosure and would like to get a high quality bulb to install and see if that is a better(and cheaper) option. Better option than the knockoffs and cheaper than a OEM. Our projector literally stays on from 8 in the am till 9-10 at night. Id appreciate any help finding a good source for quality bulbs that I could replace myself.


----------



## Mr.G

diat150 said:


> anybody here replace their own lamp bulbs on the 8350? I have been trying some of the knockoff lamps but for every one that has good quality it seems 4-5 dont. I have a spare lamp enclosure and would like to get a high quality bulb to install and see if that is a better(and cheaper) option. Better option than the knockoffs and cheaper than a OEM. Our projector literally stays on from 8 in the am till 9-10 at night. Id appreciate any help finding a good source for quality bulbs that I could replace myself.


*Who Makes Projector Lamps?
*
High quality projector lamps that meet industry standards are only made by a few projector lamp manufacturers in the world. Manufacturing projector lamps is an incredibly expensive and challenging technological process that only a few companies are able to meet.

The major manufacturers in the projector lamp industry are -

*Philips* - The pioneer of the projector lamp world. In 1995 they began researching and developing the first metal halide lamps. They eventually developed a mercury vapor projector lamp, which they called a UHP lamp or ultra-high pressure mercury vapor. The new development made it possible for projection systems to emit a brightness never before seen, and made digital projectors possible. Philips remains a dominant force in the projector lamp industry, and some estimates indicate Philips has more than 70% control over the projector lamp manufacturing and sales market today worldwide.

*Ushio* - Founded in Japan, but now with offices around the world, Ushio manufactures hundreds of different industrial lights, lamps and bulbs. The company started in 1964 as an industrial light manufacturer. Ushio manufactures projector lamps for Sony, Sanyo, BenQ, and many other companies. Estimates indicate they have a 10% share in the projector lamp market.

*Osram* - Osram started in Germany. The company specializes in producing the ARC tube in mercury vapor lamps and metal halide lamps. Osram claims to be the second largest lighting manufacturer in the world, with about a 7% market share.

The Others - There’s a handful of projector lamp manufacturers in Taiwan, Japan, and China. The most notable is Matsushita, which is a subsidiary of Epson and manufacturers all of Epson's lamps. Most smaller manufacturers of projector lamps don’t produce high quality lamps and aren’t commonly found in new projectors.

*Why Are Projector Lamps So Expensive?*

There is a good reason for the high cost of a new projector lamp. Compressed inside the ARC tube of the projector lamp is an ultra-high pressurize mercury vapor which is ignited when electricity jumps or arcs, across the gap filled with this gas. The ignition of the gas is what produces a projector lamp's extreme bright light.

Thus, the technology and engineering that goes into making a projector lamp is not cheap. In fact, the machines required to produce a single projector lamp can cost the manufacturer millions of dollars.

In addition to the cost of the machinery, manufacturers also have to hire expert scientists and engineers that can ensure that the projector lamp meets the standards required by your projector. The mercury vapor must be precisely pressurized and the ARC tube and quartz reflector must be exactly positioned at the correct angle. If any of these elements are not calibrated exactly as they need to be, the projector lamp may not produce the brightness expected, may burn the LCD panel within the projector, or could fail to ignite.

Every projector lamp has different ignition and running voltages and wattages. These configurations produce different brightness levels (ANSI lumens rates). Therefore, machines that manufacture projector lamps are complex and expensive to maintain. They have to be recalibrated for each specific new lamp setting. There’s no short way around this process if the manufacturer wants to produce a high quality projector lamp.

Projector lamps are cost intensive to make and that is why there are only four/ five major manufacturers of high-quality, ORIGINAL projector lamps in the entire world. These manufacturers have spent a lot of money both researching and developing projector lamps. They also have to maintain the assembly plants where the lamps are made. The costs to develop and make projector lamps limits competition in the market, but both of these factors increase the cost of projector lamps.

Basically you get what you pay for. If you are intent on using bare bulbs make sure they are manufactured by the companies mentioned.


----------



## diat150

Mr.G said:


> *Who Makes Projector Lamps?
> *
> High quality projector lamps that meet industry standards are only made by a few projector lamp manufacturers in the world. Manufacturing projector lamps is an incredibly expensive and challenging technological process that only a few companies are able to meet.
> 
> The major manufacturers in the projector lamp industry are -
> 
> *Philips* - The pioneer of the projector lamp world. In 1995 they began researching and developing the first metal halide lamps. They eventually developed a mercury vapor projector lamp, which they called a UHP lamp or ultra-high pressure mercury vapor. The new development made it possible for projection systems to emit a brightness never before seen, and made digital projectors possible. Philips remains a dominant force in the projector lamp industry, and some estimates indicate Philips has more than 70% control over the projector lamp manufacturing and sales market today worldwide.
> 
> *Ushio* - Founded in Japan, but now with offices around the world, Ushio manufactures hundreds of different industrial lights, lamps and bulbs. The company started in 1964 as an industrial light manufacturer. Ushio manufactures projector lamps for Sony, Sanyo, BenQ, and many other companies. Estimates indicate they have a 10% share in the projector lamp market.
> 
> *Osram* - Osram started in Germany. The company specializes in producing the ARC tube in mercury vapor lamps and metal halide lamps. Osram claims to be the second largest lighting manufacturer in the world, with about a 7% market share.
> 
> The Others - There’s a handful of projector lamp manufacturers in Taiwan, Japan, and China. The most notable is Matsushita, which is a subsidiary of Epson and manufacturers all of Epson's lamps. Most smaller manufacturers of projector lamps don’t produce high quality lamps and aren’t commonly found in new projectors.
> 
> *Why Are Projector Lamps So Expensive?*
> 
> There is a good reason for the high cost of a new projector lamp. Compressed inside the ARC tube of the projector lamp is an ultra-high pressurize mercury vapor which is ignited when electricity jumps or arcs, across the gap filled with this gas. The ignition of the gas is what produces a projector lamp's extreme bright light.
> 
> Thus, the technology and engineering that goes into making a projector lamp is not cheap. In fact, the machines required to produce a single projector lamp can cost the manufacturer millions of dollars.
> 
> In addition to the cost of the machinery, manufacturers also have to hire expert scientists and engineers that can ensure that the projector lamp meets the standards required by your projector. The mercury vapor must be precisely pressurized and the ARC tube and quartz reflector must be exactly positioned at the correct angle. If any of these elements are not calibrated exactly as they need to be, the projector lamp may not produce the brightness expected, may burn the LCD panel within the projector, or could fail to ignite.
> 
> Every projector lamp has different ignition and running voltages and wattages. These configurations produce different brightness levels (ANSI lumens rates). Therefore, machines that manufacture projector lamps are complex and expensive to maintain. They have to be recalibrated for each specific new lamp setting. There’s no short way around this process if the manufacturer wants to produce a high quality projector lamp.
> 
> Projector lamps are cost intensive to make and that is why there are only four/ five major manufacturers of high-quality, ORIGINAL projector lamps in the entire world. These manufacturers have spent a lot of money both researching and developing projector lamps. They also have to maintain the assembly plants where the lamps are made. The costs to develop and make projector lamps limits competition in the market, but both of these factors increase the cost of projector lamps.
> 
> Basically you get what you pay for. If you are intent on using bare bulbs make sure they are manufactured by the companies mentioned.


yes, I understand the process behind the bulbs and all that. I was hoping that someone was doing the same thing and could point me to a source for quality bulbs.


----------



## Mr.G

diat150 said:


> yes, I understand the process behind the bulbs and all that. I was hoping that someone was doing the same thing and could point me to a source for quality bulbs.


Bare bulbs are almost always counterfeit, so no they won't be quality bulbs. You don't mention your budget. What have you been spending on generic bulbs? $50, $100, $150? Have they been bare bulbs or generic lamp modules?

Regardless, your experience with 1 out 5 being decent is pretty indicative of the generic/counterfeit bulb market.


----------



## diat150

Mr.G said:


> Bare bulbs are almost always counterfeit, so no they won't be quality bulbs. You don't mention your budget. What have you been spending on generic bulbs? $50, $100, $150? Have they been bare bulbs or generic lamp modules?
> 
> Regardless, your experience with 1 out 5 being decent is pretty indicative of the generic/counterfeit bulb market.


so it sounds like I cant buy a bare osram bulb for the 8350? Is that what you are saying?


----------



## Mr.G

diat150 said:


> so it sounds like I cant buy a bare osram bulb for the 8350? Is that what you are saying?


Nothing is impossible, so you may find a bare bulb Osram out there somewhere. You'd have a much easier time finding one already installed in a generic/clone lamp module. You may have to resign yourself to doing what you've done in the past to save money and hope for the best.


----------



## MississippiMan

Crazy thing.....Replacement Lamps sell for under $60.00 (Prime) on Amazon w/150 day Warranty (Electrified)

Yet you can buy a so called "OEM" Lamp for $180.00+ and it only comes with a 30 day Warranty. 

So I'd buy 3 @ $60.00 and just settle back.....


----------



## linkseo

guess i should chime in about the dust blobs also. I got 3 at about the 600 hour mark. Didnt really bother me much since 2 were very tiny and 1 the size if a tennis ball. they were a faint green and can only be seen during black screens.

im now at 1800 mark and the bulb is started to get a little dull. dull enough for me to notice it. gonna buy a replacement bulb now.

By the way. I remember seeing someone posting pics of them opening and cleaning the blobs out with air. can anyone plese point me the the thread? Or if its on THIS thread someone please tell me what page?

Thanks


----------



## tryrrthg

I am real close to pulling the trigger on the Epson 8345 (which from what I’ve read is the same as the 8350). Amazon and the Epson store have the 8345 for the same price right now. Should it matter where I purchase it from?

Also, if I purchase at Amazon I can get a 4-year Squaretrade warranty for around $85. Would that be worth the money?

Just wondering what everyone thinks. Thanks!


----------



## aijuswannasing

tryrrthg said:


> I am real close to pulling the trigger on the Epson 8345 (which from what I’ve read is the same as the 8350). Amazon and the Epson store have the 8345 for the same price right now. Should it matter where I purchase it from?
> 
> Also, if I purchase at Amazon I can get a 4-year Squaretrade warranty for around $85. Would that be worth the money?
> 
> Just wondering what everyone thinks. Thanks!



I had the 8345 (sold by Futureshop in Canada) and then returned it and got an 8350 from Visions when they had a sale. I only had it a few days, but I swear the 8350 gave me better black levels.

The prices are virtually the same - is there a certain reason you're considering the 8345 vs the 8350?


----------



## ben38

After using and testing both projectors for the better part of a month, I've come to the conclusion that the 8350 and 8345 are indeed the same projector with a few adjustments that mostly favor the 8345. Both projectors use exactly the same LCD panels and the same lamps. 
The weaknesses of the 8350 have always been fast bulb burnouts (a problem shared with the 8100) and Dynamic Iris issues. These weaknesses seem to have been addressed with the 8345.
Upon checking the lumen numbers on both projectors using the same lamp, I found that all of the lumen numbers were essentially the same except in dynamic mode, where the 8350 was about 110 lumens brighter. (1450 lumens for the 8345, 1560 lumens for the 8350) I'm thinking this brightness setting was adjusted to prevent premature lamp burnouts.
When I put up the ANSI checkerboard pattern to measure contrast, both projectors, with the Dynamic iris turned off, measured the same at just over 800:1. With the dynamic iris set to auto the 8345 jumped up to 1100:1 while the 8350 surpassed 1300:1. My conclusion here is that an adjustment was made to address the over aggressive Dynamic Iris of the 8350 at the cost of some contrast. 
In my case, I've been blessed with getting an 8350 with excellent convergence and no Dynamic Iris failures. Though i still have to contend with the lamps dimming rather quickly and burning out.
If i were to buy all over again, even with the slightly lowered contrast, I would buy the 8345 because it's the same great projector as the 8350 with slightly lower dynamic iris contrast, and more of the kinks of the 8350 worked out of it. At least i hope they are.


----------



## tryrrthg

aijuswannasing said:


> I had the 8345 (sold by Futureshop in Canada) and then returned it and got an 8350 from Visions when they had a sale. I only had it a few days, but I swear the 8350 gave me better black levels.
> 
> The prices are virtually the same - is there a certain reason you're considering the 8345 vs the 8350?


Price is actually one reason. I can get the 8345 for about $200 less. Which isn't THAT much savings but with all the other costs associated with finishing my basement every little bit helps. I'm not super picky about black levels and shadow detail. Since this is my first projector I'm more concerned with getting the best bang for my buck to make sure front projection is for me.

The main reason is that I'm hoping that they did work some of the kinks out of the 8350 when they rolled out the 8345. Since I'm not super picky on black levels I don't think I'm going to be able to tell the difference between the 8350 and 8345. But everything I've found says they are practically the same projector...

I should note that I did own the 8350 for a few weeks last year. I bought it from amazon for a really good price, but my basement finishing was not progressing fast enough (totally my own fault) so I returned the 8350 because I didn't want to use up the warranty while it sat in a box.


----------



## Moxified

I have a 9350 which was upgraded from an 8350 after about #6 replacement. I'm headed for replacement #9 I think or third 9350 for various issues in no specific order: several dust blobs, DOA zoom ring, DOA auto iris, auto iris failure, eco mode flickering and plenty more dust blob issues in the middle that I didn't even send back until permanent failures occurred.

I digress. So, I'm at a point where Epson is mulling refunding my money or some other options. When the PJ works, it really is a great machine. I really enjoy the lens shift.

My question is, if offered a refund, what would a suitable more reliable alternative be. I would consider DLP now as I hear the higher speed color wheels mostly eliminate the rainbow? I would be looking in the $1200 range and would consider a few hundred more if it made a difference. I would want to avoid 3d as I hear it messes with latency for gaming?

Alternatively, any other options that makes sense such as asking for a different Epson projector etc.

I just feel like I'm playing russian roulette with these things and frankly, Epson has gone above and beyond and at this point is helping me well outside of the original warranty period. I would say they are going above and beyond but because of the issues I have had... I think it is a wash.

Sorry to crap on the 8350 in the owners thread but I am an owner


----------



## ocelittle

I went through 3 official bulbs in 2 years so I bought a third party one on amazon for $40 to try it out. Works fine but now I'm getting a flicker line near the top or bottom third. It's random but it's annoying. Is this bulb related?


----------



## kevinwoodward

*EPSON Warranty/Bulb*

I had a buddy get the 8350, his bulb light is blinking today, no display at all. Not sure how many hours he has on it but it's less than 2 years. I called epson and they are saying it's 90 days on the bulb.

From all the posts I have read I was pretty sure it was 2 years on the whole projector?

Can someone clarify this for me before I escalate with them?
also, does anyone have a contact and phone number?

I called the generic line... 

thanks in advance.


----------



## Moxified

kevinwoodward said:


> I had a buddy get the 8350, his bulb light is blinking today, no display at all. Not sure how many hours he has on it but it's less than 2 years. I called epson and they are saying it's 90 days on the bulb.
> 
> From all the posts I have read I was pretty sure it was 2 years on the whole projector?
> 
> Can someone clarify this for me before I escalate with them?
> also, does anyone have a contact and phone number?
> 
> I called the generic line...
> 
> thanks in advance.


Definitely 90 days on the bulb. Sometimes they will give a courtesy one time replacement. 2 years in... I think you will be buying a bulb.

With respect to my post earlier... Epson has offered me a refund due to my long list of trouble with them. I decided to buy a Sony vpl-hw40es. Hopefully it will serve me better.


----------



## kevinwoodward

Moxified said:


> Definitely 90 days on the bulb. Sometimes they will give a courtesy one time replacement. 2 years in... I think you will be buying a bulb.
> 
> With respect to my post earlier... Epson has offered me a refund due to my long list of trouble with them. I decided to buy a Sony vpl-hw40es. Hopefully it will serve me better.


thanks for the information, will post what happens....


----------



## mldr

Hey guys,

My 8350 is currently in the mail (very excited!), and in the meantime, I was wondering what size screen I should be getting with a maximum throw distance of 8'7? I was leaning towards an 84" (Elite Screens), but was wondering if a 100" would be a smarter purchase if I were to one day move it into larger room. Would the extra border most likely be an annoyance, or will it not be so noticeable in a dark room? I suppose I could always just buy a new one down the road since they are fairly cheap.

Appreciate any input.


----------



## ben38

mldr said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> My 8350 is currently in the mail (very excited!), and in the meantime, I was wondering what size screen I should be getting with a maximum throw distance of 8'7? I was leaning towards an 84" (Elite Screens), but was wondering if a 100" would be a smarter purchase if I were to one day move it into larger room. Would the extra border most likely be an annoyance, or will it not be so noticeable in a dark room? I suppose I could always just buy a new one down the road since they are fairly cheap.
> 
> Appreciate any input.


 In such a small room, 80-90 inches makes sense. There's always a tendency to want to go bigger, but 100 inches is probably a little too big in such a small room and a little too small in a large room.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Without running the numbers myself, I think the poster was indicating at 8'7" he anticipates an 84" maximum image can be achieved... he was asking if BUYING a 100" screen would be noticable distracting since he'd only be able to throw an 84" image in that room.

I'm not a fan of the expense of a screen. Been throwing for over ten years onto a painted sheetrock wall and have seen a buddy's Epson 3020 on his high $$ (electric rolldown) screen... I'm not impressed with his, nor dissatisfied with my installation! 

As for your question: I don't think it would be distracting. It's essentially what we ALL experience watching a 2:35 DVD/BR on our 1:77 (16:9) AR projectors anyway. As for even buying a screen, perhaps you should consider white sheetrock for now and save the screen cost all together! You can even trim it out with a small investment at your local home improvement store and a few 45-degree cuts!


----------



## jflynn

My bulb went dim at 2336 hours and 20 months. I ordered a bulb from Illuminex for $99. It came in two days free shipping. I've only been running the new bulb for about six hours, but so far it is as bright and sharp as the original. I will update if anything changes, but I'm a happy customer for now.


----------



## kevinwoodward

ben38 said:


> In such a small room, 80-90 inches makes sense. There's always a tendency to want to go bigger, but 100 inches is probably a little too big in such a small room and a little too small in a large room.


Have you ever walked into a movie theater and said... OMG that screen is too big?


----------



## kevinwoodward

kevinwoodward said:


> thanks for the information, will post what happens....


Just following up with this, EPSON sent him a replacement bulb at no charge.


----------



## navin_d

Hi all,

New member here, I have an Epson 8350 that is ~ 3 years old and starting to experience some issues with my picture. 

The projector barely gets used so I'm thinking its not a bulb problem (no warning indicator), or red flashes on the bulbs. Basically there are what looks like black "tar" marks on the picture... also some gray marks appear on the picture. 

I tried to get some pictures with my iPhone to demonstrate, so hopefully they come through. I did try searching through this thread + some google searching but nothing seems to come up with this problem.

Thanks!

EDIT -- Forgot to add that I have tried switching the input slots for the projector on my receiver. It seemed to work for about 5 mins, and then picture turned to crap again. Tested on multiple channels to make sure it wasn't my provider as well.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

crimsonblue said:


> UPDATE: Epson really came through for me. They are shipping a new 8350 to make amends for shipping 3 DOA refurbs in a row. That's top notch customer service. Assuming they keep spitting out good products (hopefully something new at CEDIA) then I'm a loyal customer.


How did you go about getting a refurb in the first place? My 8350 HDMIs went out this weekend and I am out of warranty. I called the recommended service center and they told me it would be $1k + labor for the replacement part so that is out of the question. 

I guess I can run Component but will be a challenge to run that line through the walls and really dont want to sacrifice 1080P for 1080i (might be negligible).

Thoughts?


----------



## kevinwoodward

Mikey_Dawg said:


> How did you go about getting a refurb in the first place? My 8350 HDMIs went out this weekend and I am out of warranty. I called the recommended service center and they told me it would be $1k + labor for the replacement part so that is out of the question.
> 
> I guess I can run Component but will be a challenge to run that line through the walls and really dont want to sacrifice 1080P for 1080i (might be negligible).
> 
> Thoughts?


that seems ridiculous. how can the part be so much?
1080i wouldn't be so bad for you probably till you buy new projector
keep in mind all cable channels are still under 1080p
could be 1080i or 720


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

kevinwoodward said:


> that seems ridiculous. how can the part be so much?
> 1080i wouldn't be so bad for you probably till you buy new projector
> keep in mind all cable channels are still under 1080p
> could be 1080i or 720


The girl I spoke with said due to how the 8350 was designed, they had to purchase a major component to address the HDMI issue. She agreed the design was ridiculous and they did not prefer this either as it wasnt cost effective to repair this unit. (they lose business) This was the only service center in GA for EPSONS if I remember correctly (from their web site).

I sent an email describing the situation to EPSON support to see if i had any other options (refurb, etc). 

We'll see what they say.


----------



## crimsonblue

I never called a repair center; I called Epson, and they made a generous one-time exception since it was only a week or so out of warranty. Don't bother emailing, time is wasted that way -- give them a call. Google Epson Projector Service to get the right number.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

crimsonblue said:


> I never called a repair center; I called Epson, and they made a generous one-time exception since it was only a week or so out of warranty. Don't bother emailing, time is wasted that way -- give them a call. Google Epson Projector Service to get the right number.


Yep.... this was their response below..

I understand when a product is out of warranty that you might have to come out of pocket for repairs, but it is VERY frustrating when the parts/labor are MORE than price of a new projector. 

I've expressed my displeasure but doubt it will do any good... after this issue, not sure I can justify giving EPSON anymore business. Sigh.

----------------------------------------

Thank you for contacting Epson.

Unfortunately, based on our records, your unit is no longer under warranty. There is no option to swap for a refurbished unit. We do sell refurbished units on our website under the Clearance section.

The Main Board which has all the inputs attached to it comes with the Optical Engine because they are calibrated to each other. There is no way to have just the Main Board replaced by itself. This is the main component of the projector and that is why it is so expensive.

If you require further assistance with this particular issue, please ensure all of our previous correspondence is contained in your reply, so we can better track the history of this issue.

If you have a different issue, please submit another E-form via our website (http://www.epson.com), and we will respond in a timely manner. Thank you again for contacting Epson.


Jimmy Z
Advanced Customer Support Specialist
Epson America, Inc.


----------



## kevinwoodward

Mikey_Dawg said:


> The girl I spoke with said due to how the 8350 was designed, they had to purchase a major component to address the HDMI issue. She agreed the design was ridiculous and they did not prefer this either as it wasnt cost effective to repair this unit. (they lose business) This was the only service center in GA for EPSONS if I remember correctly (from their web site).
> 
> I sent an email describing the situation to EPSON support to see if i had any other options (refurb, etc).
> 
> We'll see what they say.


doesn't sound right to me.
a new one is 1099 on amazon right now
and an 8345 is only 899 
so how can a part me 1000 + labor?

u may want to point that out to repair place.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

kevinwoodward said:


> doesn't sound right to me.
> a new one is 1099 on amazon right now
> and an 8345 is only 899
> so how can a part me 1000 + labor?
> 
> u may want to point that out to repair place.


Read my above post... EPSON CS confirmed what I was told... not happy with this right now.


----------



## ben38

Do what Crimson Blue suggested and call Epson directly. Talk to somebody in charge. A service center person has to strictly go by the rules and can't authorize replacements for an out of warranty unit. Sending an Email will just get you the same response as the service center. Tell them about the impossible situation a repair of this type is for you. If your unit is not too long out of warranty, they'll probably try to help you. Believe me, if you talk to someone at Epson directly, the last thing they'd want to do is leave you high and dry.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

ben38 said:


> Do what Crimson Blue suggested and call Epson directly. Talk to somebody in charge. A service center person has to strictly go by the rules and can't authorize replacements for an out of warranty unit. Sending an Email will just get you the same response as the service center. Tell them about the impossible situation a repair of this type is for you. If your unit is not too long out of warranty, they'll probably try to help you. Believe me, if you talk to someone at Epson directly, the last thing they'd want to do is leave you high and dry.


Called EPSON support, got pointed to call a projector tech support number. The guy didn't help much, helped with me setting up EPSON Loyalty account to see which projectors they had there (at "discounted prices")...none of the projector options there were close to level of 8350. 

He then gave me "sales" number to call to see if they could assist further. He confirmed the cost I was quoted for the fix. What a bad design. Sigh.


----------



## ben38

Mikey_Dawg said:


> Called EPSON support, got pointed to call a projector tech support number. The guy didn't help much, helped with me setting up EPSON Loyalty account to see which projectors they had there (at "discounted prices")...none of the projector options there were close to level of 8350.
> 
> He then gave me "sales" number to call to see if they could assist further. He confirmed the cost I was quoted for the fix. What a bad design. Sigh.


 Sorry they didn't help you. I'm surprised. If it was a long discontinued model like the 6500ub i could understand their behavior. But this is a projector that they still sell that has suffered a catastrophic failure. They should want to make it right regardless of the warranty. Really disappointing.


----------



## kevinwoodward

ben38 said:


> Sorry they didn't help you. I'm surprised. If it was a long discontinued model like the 6500ub i could understand their behavior. But this is a projector that they still sell that has suffered a catastrophic failure. They should want to make it right regardless of the warranty. Really disappointing.


try calling back and getting someone else.
mention this board and how 100's of people are troubled by this issue.


----------



## Antoin Brgn

I saw it a few months ago a solution to remove dust but I can not find the method.


----------



## Landsharkk

I'm a big fan of HDTV's (LCD/DLP) and looking to possibly make the switch to a projector. I'm doing 90% gaming, so looking for something with low input lag (at least as low as a DLP HDTV, which I'm assuming the projector is better than that).

Anyway, I currently own a Mitsubishi WD-65833 DLP HDTV and am about to sell it and buy a 'used' Sharp Aquos 70" LC-70C6500U (for about $900). However, I also just found a used Epson 8350 for $750 (less than 3 years old).

I'd like to know if making the switch will have me missing out from any feature/lighting/etc that a traditional HDTV would have over the projector?

I'm using it in a medium-lit room with windows only on one side of the room (north facing, so no direct sunlight). 

I know the 8350 has 2,000 lumens, is that bright enough or comparable to the Sharp Aquos 70" in real world testing? 

Any other suggestions or comments?

Thank you!


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

Landsharkk said:


> I'm a big fan of HDTV's (LCD/DLP) and looking to possibly make the switch to a projector. I'm doing 90% gaming, so looking for something with low input lag (at least as low as a DLP HDTV, which I'm assuming the projector is better than that).
> 
> Anyway, I currently own a Mitsubishi WD-65833 DLP HDTV and am about to sell it and buy a 'used' Sharp Aquos 70" LC-70C6500U (for about $900). However, I also just found a used Epson 8350 for $750 (less than 3 years old).
> 
> I'd like to know if making the switch will have me missing out from any feature/lighting/etc that a traditional HDTV would have over the projector?
> 
> I'm using it in a medium-lit room with windows only on one side of the room (north facing, so no direct sunlight).
> 
> I know the 8350 has 2,000 lumens, is that bright enough or comparable to the Sharp Aquos 70" in real world testing?
> 
> Any other suggestions or comments?
> 
> Thank you!


I have the 60" Aquos and the 8350 and the TV is a good bit brighter (they are in adjoining rooms). If I had a room with medium light, I'd probably opt for the 70" over the projector unless you can black out the windows. You could still see the image of the 8350 in medium light but the 70" AQOUS will look much better.


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

kevinwoodward said:


> try calling back and getting someone else.
> mention this board and how 100's of people are troubled by this issue.


I tired this a few times with sales and the best they would offer me is $930 for a new 8350. 

I ordered and installed a component cable only to discover that HDMI inputs (100% of my devices) wont output a signal over component. (this may be common knowledge, but I had no clue).

So now I am looking for a new projector... what do yall think the value is of a 8350 with only component output working on it? Gonna try and sell and get a few bucks out of it.


----------



## kevinwoodward

Mikey_Dawg said:


> I tired this a few times with sales and the best they would offer me is $930 for a new 8350.
> 
> I ordered and installed a component cable only to discover that HDMI inputs (100% of my devices) wont output a signal over component. (this may be common knowledge, but I had no clue).
> 
> So now I am looking for a new projector... what do yall think the value is of a 8350 with only component output working on it? Gonna try and sell and get a few bucks out of it.


I think the signals only go up... if you ran component from all to your receiver it would work. do you see a difference in the picture? how many sources are you running and do any not have component?


----------



## Mikey_Dawg

kevinwoodward said:


> I think the signals only go up... if you ran component from all to your receiver it would work. do you see a difference in the picture? how many sources are you running and do any not have component?


Sources are PS3 are Xbox 1 (DirecTV is run through XBOX1) and are all HDMI. 

Neither of them have component natively so would have to buy aftermarket converters which I hear are unreliable. 

Just gonna look at EPSONs new 3000 line and might pull the trigger on one of them. Just ridiculous the HDMI board cant be repaired for a reasonable price...


----------



## kevinwoodward

Mikey_Dawg said:


> Sources are PS3 are Xbox 1 (DirecTV is run through XBOX1) and are all HDMI.
> 
> Neither of them have component natively so would have to buy aftermarket converters which I hear are unreliable.
> 
> Just gonna look at EPSONs new 3000 line and might pull the trigger on one of them. Just ridiculous the HDMI board cant be repaired for a reasonable price...


my ps3 and old xbox 360 all had component via a cable/connector
would be cheaper than new projector but i hear you

buy something better


----------



## lakersin2025

So my 3 year old had a temper tantrum and pushed my projector off of the 2.5ft high table it was sitting on.... No, I didn't murder him. It took me a week to turn it on to asses the damage. It landed partially on a folded up blowup mattress before hitting the hardwood flooring. I turned it on and all seems good! I was sure the bulb would at least of been broken but nope, still 1,100 hrs and kickin.


----------



## thucker

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8350 or 8345. The projector will be on a shelf about 3-4' above where I sit on the couch. I'm concerned that I might have noise issues being that close to the projector. Does anyone have this projector setup in a similar arrangement? If so, how noticeable is the noise?

The room is a dedicated theater room, so it'll be pitch black when watching movies. The projector will most likely be in low light mode the whole time.

Thanks,


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

That's one data point: drop test from 30" and still working... C H E C K ! ! 

Ouch. This is NOT any thing we'd want to try - congratulations on it still working! You are a lucky dog, indeed


----------



## Tesla1856

thucker said:


> I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8350 or 8345. The projector will be on a shelf about 3-4' above where I sit on the couch. I'm concerned that I might have noise issues being that close to the projector. Does anyone have this projector setup in a similar arrangement? If so, how noticeable is the noise?
> 
> The room is a dedicated theater room, so it'll be pitch black when watching movies. The projector will most likely be in low light mode the whole time.
> 
> Thanks,



See my pics. Mine is on the counter about 4-5 feet behind closest seating position. I keep it on non-ECO so fan runs at max 100% of the time. We don't hear anything, but we only use it for movies at close to reference levels. Also, surrounds and sub is back there near it.


----------



## Tesla1856

*What the heck happened to forum ?*

Am I on the right website? Did they change software again? 


All my "rooms", pics and equipment lists are gone.


----------



## David Senecal

*Flashing temp light*

Hi everyone, my Epson 8350 is flashing the temp light right after I turn it on. Bulb only has 300 hours on it. I should add that the air filter is clean, and this happened right after I moved it to my new place a few states away. I did transport it in the original packaging. It was working fine before. Anyone have any tips on how to do a self repair? Thank you!


----------



## kevinwoodward

thucker said:


> I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8350 or 8345. The projector will be on a shelf about 3-4' above where I sit on the couch. I'm concerned that I might have noise issues being that close to the projector. Does anyone have this projector setup in a similar arrangement? If so, how noticeable is the noise?
> 
> The room is a dedicated theater room, so it'll be pitch black when watching movies. The projector will most likely be in low light mode the whole time.
> 
> Thanks,


I sit on a couch below mine, run it on cinema and I hear it but it doesn't bother me, and I hate stuff like that.

you will be fine.


----------



## ben38

David Senecal said:


> Hi everyone, my Epson 8350 is flashing the temp light right after I turn it on. Bulb only has 300 hours on it. I should add that the air filter is clean, and this happened right after I moved it to my new place a few states away. I did transport it in the original packaging. It was working fine before. Anyone have any tips on how to do a self repair? Thank you!


 Have you tried the HIGH ALTITUDE mode?


----------



## David Senecal

ben38 said:


> Have you tried the HIGH ALTITUDE mode?


Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I can enable High Altitude mode in time, since there is about 10 seconds from turning on the projector to shut off. Not enough time to warm up the lamp and even let me see the screen long enough to enter the menu. I do see the screen for just a couple seconds so I don't think it's a lamp issue. I am also only 6' above sea level.


----------



## Kilgore

David Senecal said:


> Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I can enable High Altitude mode in time, since there is about 10 seconds from turning on the projector to shut off. Not enough time to warm up the lamp and even let me see the screen long enough to enter the menu. I do see the screen for just a couple seconds so I don't think it's a lamp issue. I am also only 6' above sea level.


 
Have you tried reseating the lamp? Try taking it out and putting it back in just to make sure it's in nice and firm with all the screws tight (not "too" tight of course...you don't have to go nuts with it). Might help, who knows. Perhaps it unseated somewhat during the move.


----------



## ben38

If reseating the lamp doesn't work, one of the fan connections may have come loose during the move. You may have to open the case.


----------



## hotpepper007

Hey guys a I just upgraded to a 5020 so I have a excellent 8350 in the classifieds. Great deal. Thanks


----------



## David Senecal

*yep!*



Kilgore said:


> Have you tried reseating the lamp? Try taking it out and putting it back in just to make sure it's in nice and firm with all the screws tight (not "too" tight of course...you don't have to go nuts with it). Might help, who knows. Perhaps it unseated somewhat during the move.




This worked perfectly. Thank you so much.


----------



## Kilgore

David Senecal said:


> This worked perfectly. Thank you so much.


 Awesome! Glad to be of help.


----------



## ben38

David Senecal said:


> This worked perfectly. Thank you so much.


Good news. Glad to hear it.

Now that you can, do yourself a service by putting your projector in high altitude mode. The 8350 fans in normal mode shut down way too early. This may have been corrected in the latest software, but no reason to take a chance.


----------



## rakstr

Forgive me if I've missed something but I've never seen a firmware update on the Epson site for the 8350. Can you provide more details about "the latest software"



ben38 said:


> Good news. Glad to hear it.
> 
> Now that you can, do yourself a service by putting your projector in high altitude mode. The 8350 fans in normal mode shut down way too early. This may have been corrected in the latest software, but no reason to take a chance.


----------



## ben38

rakstr said:


> Forgive me if I've missed something but I've never seen a firmware update on the Epson site for the 8350. Can you provide more details about "the latest software"


 No. There's no software updates that you can download or install. What I was referring to was the factory level software tweaks Epson makes at the Factory. Minor bug fixes to address recurring problems like Dynamic iris failures and premature lamp failures. An 8350 built in 2014 is probably more reliable than one built in 2011 for this reason.
As for an official firmware update: It looks like Epson reserves major firmware updates to their top tier units like the 5000 and 6000 line of projectors.


----------



## rakstr

Because I'm now curious  I went and stepped through the menus to see if I could find a firmware version. I could not. Anyone know where (if) it's stored/displayed?


ben38 said:


> No. There's no software updates that you can download or install. What I was referring to was the factory level software tweaks Epson makes at the Factory. Minor bug fixes to address recurring problems like Dynamic iris failures and premature lamp failures. An 8350 built in 2014 is probably more reliable than one built in 2011 for this reason.
> As for an official firmware update: It looks like Epson reserves major firmware updates to their top tier units like the 5000 and 6000 line of projectors.


----------



## KPOD

Can anyone comment on using an Epson 8350 with a Elite Screens 150"? Is the 8350 bright enough to project onto a 150" screen? I have a long room so distance is not an issue, but brightness from a distance far enough to get 150" might be. I need a pull down screen since I have a fireplace at the end of the room, and Elite Screens is the only company I've seen who makes a 150" pull down. Also according to http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8350-projection-calculator-pro.htm I would need to adjust the zoom quite a bit (2.11x) for 150" if I wanted to maintain 12 fL. If I was ok with 10 fL, I could keep the zoom right in the middle (1.55x)


----------



## kevinwoodward

KPOD said:


> Can anyone comment on using an Epson 8350 with a Elite Screens 150"? Is the 8350 bright enough to project onto a 150" screen? I have a long room so distance is not an issue, but brightness from a distance far enough to get 150" might be. I need a pull down screen since I have a fireplace at the end of the room, and Elite Screens is the only company I've seen who makes a 150" pull down. Also according to http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8350-projection-calculator-pro.htm I would need to adjust the zoom quite a bit (2.11x) for 150" if I wanted to maintain 12 fL. If I was ok with 10 fL, I could keep the zoom right in the middle (1.55x)


it's plenty bright.


----------



## ben38

KPOD said:


> Can anyone comment on using an Epson 8350 with a Elite Screens 150"? Is the 8350 bright enough to project onto a 150" screen? I have a long room so distance is not an issue, but brightness from a distance far enough to get 150" might be. I need a pull down screen since I have a fireplace at the end of the room, and Elite Screens is the only company I've seen who makes a 150" pull down. Also according to http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_8350-projection-calculator-pro.htm I would need to adjust the zoom quite a bit (2.11x) for 150" if I wanted to maintain 12 fL. If I was ok with 10 fL, I could keep the zoom right in the middle (1.55x)


 I would only use a screen that large if the room was absolutely dark. Remember that the calculator is basing the brightness on Epson's claimed 2000 lumens for the 8350. The best readings i ever got with a new bulb on dynamic mode was just over 1600 lumens. After just 100 hours, the numbers settle into 1500 lumens for the next 300 hours or so. Getting and maintaining 12fl for 150 inches will be very tough. If you still want 150 inches, you should look for higher gain screens or a brighter projector. (Like the new 3000 series)


----------



## fooltech

*Cheapest place for replacement lamp?*

Looking for official Epson V13H010L49 bulb for the 8350 and found them for $246 at Staples; has anyone bought them from here and if so, can confirm if they are the real deal?

http://www.staples.com/Epson-V13H010L49-Replacement-Lamp-200-W/product_IM1U43893

I seem to recall last time I was replacing a bulb, I came to the conclusion that the Epson site was the only way to go, so i'm slightly paranoid about one costing $50 less.


----------



## rakstr

There was a pretty lengthy discussion about replacement bulbs either earlier in this thread or in another not too long ago. I know I was asking about other suppliers. You may want to poke around and look for it as many knowledgeable folks participated.

While doing a quick look, I did come across this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0X81Y98658



fooltech said:


> Looking for official Epson V13H010L49 bulb for the 8350 and found them for $246 at Staples; has anyone bought them from here and if so, can confirm if they are the real deal?
> 
> http://www.staples.com/Epson-V13H010L49-Replacement-Lamp-200-W/product_IM1U43893
> 
> I seem to recall last time I was replacing a bulb, I came to the conclusion that the Epson site was the only way to go, so i'm slightly paranoid about one costing $50 less.


----------



## KPOD

ben38 said:


> I would only use a screen that large if the room was absolutely dark. Remember that the calculator is basing the brightness on Epson's claimed 2000 lumens for the 8350. The best readings i ever got with a new bulb on dynamic mode was just over 1600 lumens. After just 100 hours, the numbers settle into 1500 lumens for the next 300 hours or so. Getting and maintaining 12fl for 150 inches will be very tough. If you still want 150 inches, you should look for higher gain screens or a brighter projector. (Like the new 3000 series)


Based on dimensions, it looks like the largest I can go is 135" so the 8350 should be plenty fine for that. The question I have now is, what fL level is ideal based on my lighting conditions. With the zoom right in the middle I'm at 12 fL, but I think the higher the number I can get the better right? The screen I'm looking at now has a gain of 1.1, and I can't find any manual pull downs with a higher gain than that. Can the 8350 zoom in without losing picture quality? If I increase the zoom to 1.67x and move it a little closer to the screen I go 14 fL. I guess my question is, the more ambient light I have in the room, the brighter I'm going to want the projector to be correct? I can manage the outside light fairly easily, but if I wanted to watch something with some lights on in the room, I would want my projector brighter correct?


----------



## Mr.G

fooltech said:


> Looking for official Epson V13H010L49 bulb for the 8350 and found them for $246 at Staples; has anyone bought them from here and if so, can confirm if they are the real deal?
> 
> http://www.staples.com/Epson-V13H010L49-Replacement-Lamp-200-W/product_IM1U43893
> 
> I seem to recall last time I was replacing a bulb, I came to the conclusion that the Epson site was the only way to go, so i'm slightly paranoid about one costing $50 less.


Better yet try Provantage. It's a genuine Epson lamp.

http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~7DYM905T.htm


----------



## fooltech

rakstr said:


> There was a pretty lengthy discussion about replacement bulbs either earlier in this thread or in another not too long ago. I know I was asking about other suppliers. You may want to poke around and look for it as many knowledgeable folks participated.
> 
> While doing a quick look, I did come across this.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0X81Y98658


Thanks! I went ahead and purchased it, not sure why I dismissed Osram bulbs before...


----------



## rakstr

Unless I read the information incorrectly, the bulb I linked above from newegg is OEM and $30 less than provantage.



Mr.G said:


> Better yet try Provantage. It's a genuine Epson lamp.
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/epson-v13h010l49~7DYM905T.htm


----------



## Mr.G

rakstr said:


> Unless I read the information incorrectly, the bulb I linked above from newegg is OEM and $30 less than provantage.


Indeed it is. And as much as I like ordering some things from Newegg - projector lamps is not one of those items.

It's a personal preference. We have given the OP several options.

Cheers!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

When I need one I was looking at B&H at $249.95 which has been verified by a forum member to be OEM. 

Fooltech -- Will you report your purchase from Newegg please... OEM or 3rd-party bulb in a refurbished Epson housing?


----------



## rakstr

Please report back after you've received/installed/used. I'm probably coming close to replacement time 



fooltech said:


> Thanks! I went ahead and purchased it, not sure why I dismissed Osram bulbs before...


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

Hey guys I just purchased a 8345 and I'm looking for a good quality ceiling mount. Any suggestions?

Thanks


----------



## garnuts

johnnyknoxsvill said:


> Hey guys I just purchased a 8345 and I'm looking for a good quality ceiling mount. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks


 
I used this for my 8350. It's been 18 months since I installed it, and I don't remember any problems doing so.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSFY48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## fooltech

rakstr said:


> Please report back after you've received/installed/used. I'm probably coming close to replacement time


Found a bulb at BulbAmerica for $195, used coupon SAVE5 to get $10 off, so $185 for 'legit' Epson bulb (looked identical to Epson one, except it didn't have "Epson" etched into plastic housing). Ordered late Thursday night, arrived this morning (Saturday) using their free shipping, so very impressed so far. i'll let you know in 3k hours if it's as good as the one I bought from Epson 

http://www.bulbamerica.com/products/epson-home-cinema-8350-projector-assembly-with-200-watt-uhe-osram-projector-bulb


----------



## DrewB

*Late to the 8350 game but here goes...*

You guys are going to laugh at me but I finally purchased the 8350 since I found it on clearance at BB yesterday. I'm coming from a Panny L300U (you can stop laughing now!), but it has served me dutifully. Bought it in 2002 and not a hiccup...still going strong and bluray looks pretty good but...but not true 1080 so I was always left wondering "what if". 

I tried to get thru the 200+ pages of this thread but stopped out of pure exhaustion! Any cliff notes on the do's and don'ts as I set this puppy up this weekend? I did see a good mount that is suggested from monoprice but any suggestions for a flat mount/shelf used on a back wall? best HMDI cable to use? Projector settings? Should I purchase the BB extended warranty? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.


----------



## rakstr

I had a couple of these from the dark ages and used one for my 8350. Works PERFECTLY as the back of by theater room comes to a "V" in relation to the screen so I've got all the adjustment I need. I use the straps to hold the PJ in place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_i=B002LHNV56



DrewB said:


> You guys are going to laugh at me but I finally purchased the 8350 since I found it on clearance at BB yesterday. I'm coming from a Panny L300U (you can stop laughing now!), but it has served me dutifully. Bought it in 2002 and not a hiccup...still going strong and bluray looks pretty good but...but not true 1080 so I was always left wondering "what if".
> 
> I tried to get thru the 200+ pages of this thread but stopped out of pure exhaustion! Any cliff notes on the do's and don'ts as I set this puppy up this weekend? I did see a good mount that is suggested from monoprice but any suggestions for a flat mount/shelf used on a back wall? best HMDI cable to use? Projector settings? Should I purchase the BB extended warranty? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.


----------



## eyekode

I watched Godzilla last night and the dark scenes were completely crushed. No detail. So I popped on Disney WOW and ran advanced contrast and brightness calibration.

At max brightness in natural and cinema I could still not see any of the stars. The only time I saw stars was the brief transients where they flash. Has anyone successfully used these test patterns with a 8350?

I reset settings to see of something was off and still no good. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Salem


----------



## eyekode

I found a setting Signal->Advanced->HDMI Video range.
Setting this to "expanded" makes the brightness calibration work. I can now see all the stars except for the negative numbers. Not sure if this would help Godzilla as I already took the movie back to redbox .


----------



## Drensch

Antoin Brgn said:


> I saw it a few months ago a solution to remove dust but I can not find the method.


xcxxx's method

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/1280137-offical-epson-8350-owners-thread-241.html#post22130851


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Here's where I posted my support for the Chief mount...


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

johnnyknoxsvill said:


> Hey guys I just purchased a 8345 and I'm looking for a good quality ceiling mount. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks


Anyone have any other suggestions?


----------



## eyekode

Search the thread. It has come up multiple times. I bought this one and like it:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TXNS6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1414017561&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I like the geared adjustments. It is critical that you get the projector square to the wall and the geared adjustments make this easy.


----------



## dude2006

Drensch said:


> xcxxx's method
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-241.html#post22130851




Am about to attempt getting rid of 3 separate blobs on my 8350, but had a question about this procedure. I'm confused about the part that mentions the "ribbons" - am I supposed to be applying the air directly on the ribbons, or the "panels" near them? Are there more detailed photos as to that part?


Thanks.


----------



## Kilgore

dude2006 said:


> Am about to attempt getting rid of 3 separate blobs on my 8350, but had a question about this procedure. I'm confused about the part that mentions the "ribbons" - am I supposed to be applying the air directly on the ribbons, or the "panels" near them? Are there more detailed photos as to that part?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I'd like to know how you can disconnect the LCD ribbon cables.


----------



## philmike21

My 8350 has lasted almost up to the 4000 hours. Getting ready to go on my 3rd bulb here in about another 2 months or so. If you keep bulb on living room setting n eco setting n clean filter you may hit 3900 to 4000 hours.


----------



## curtlots

*Dust Blob DIY fix*



Drensch said:


> xcxxx's method
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-241.html#post22130851


I've had one good size and one smaller dust blob for at least six months. I'm not sure why I waited so long, but I just did this dust blob fix and it worked like a charm. 

Thanks!!!


----------



## curtlots

Kilgore said:


> I'd like to know how you can disconnect the LCD ribbon cables.


You don't need to disconnect any ribbons. The three ribbons that are mentioned in the directions, I believe are the connectors to the three color LCD panels that collect the dust. It's just a matter of carefully placing the straw from the can of air in and around the openings where these ribbons enter the chassis of the projector. 

There is a ribbon that you will need to be careful with that connects the user buttons on the outside of the projector case to the electronics inside, but it's just a matter of knowing it's there, and being careful if you move the projector while you're working on it.


----------



## Kilgore

curtlots said:


> You don't need to disconnect any ribbons.



You do if you want to remove the mainboard, which is what I would like to do.


----------



## Mr.G

Kilgore said:


> You do if you want to remove the mainboard, which is what I would like to do.


The ribbon connectors on the mainboard look very similar to what I have on my AR100U.

Just flick up the beige clamp that keeps pressure on the ribbon, it's hinged.


----------



## Kilgore

You mean where I've indicated with arrows? The dark colored bits?








My old 6100 was different.


----------



## Mr.G

Kilgore said:


> You mean where I've indicated with arrows? The dark colored bits?


The dark part is stationary. The beige part is the section that flips up as indicated by the yellow arrow. The red arrows point to the 2 hinges, one on each side. It's easier to see and do once you open up your projector.


----------



## Kilgore

OK, then. I've had the 8350 open before and I'd seen what you're talking about. The 6100 had an additional piece that covered that part and it flipped up. When I first looked at the 8350 I thought that part was missing. I tried prying this part you're referring to up but I didn't push too hard since I didn't want to break it. I'll give it another shot.


----------



## stuart628

Well I just got a Epson 8345 (749 on Amazon right now) to replace a hd33 that died. I wanted to try LCD and don't need 3d right now...so I figured I couldn't go wrong with the Epson...eagerly waiting to hook it up and watch maleficent on it...any calibration settings/tips for a 1.1 gain screen 100inch


----------



## DrewB

stuart628 said:


> Well I just got a Epson 8345 (749 on Amazon right now) to replace a hd33 that died. I wanted to try LCD and don't need 3d right now...so I figured I couldn't go wrong with the Epson...eagerly waiting to hook it up and watch maleficent on it...any calibration settings/tips for a 1.1 gain screen 100inch


Do you mean $849? Because thats the price currently showing. As for calibration, you can start with the suggested settings from the Sound & Vision review. I just got an 8350 myself so I'm waiting until I log 100+ hours on the bulb before tampering with settings.


----------



## stuart628

DrewB said:


> Do you mean $849? Because thats the price currently showing. As for calibration, you can start with the suggested settings from the Sound & Vision review. I just got an 8350 myself so I'm waiting until I log 100+ hours on the bulb before tampering with settings.


Wow it went up a 100...it was 749 yesterday..with my one day shipping total was 760...didn't think I could pass up on that! Thanks for suggestion I Will give those a look and see what happens..I am pumped to try out LCD as all I have had has usually been dlp


----------



## stuart628

well amazon has now let me down, the projector will be here tomorrow, they didnt process the order yesterday, oh well, still a heck of a deal!


----------



## DrewB

stuart628 said:


> well amazon has now let me down, the projector will be here tomorrow, they didnt process the order yesterday, oh well, still a heck of a deal!


For that price? I'd wait a full week! :nerd:


----------



## stuart628

DrewB said:


> For that price? I'd wait a full week! :nerd:


its been almost a week without a projector and tonight was movie night, Maleficent just wasnt as fun on a 47inch led tv lol!


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I've been reading about the 8345 and how Epson seems to have fixed the minor issues with the 8350. I'm thinking maybe I should sell my 8350 and get an 8345 rather than push Epson to send me an out of warranty, iffy, replacement if I have a problem. Any thoughts, feedback is appreciated.


----------



## stuart628

http://www.visualapex.com/Epson/Projector-Specifications.asp?For-The=Home-Cinema-8345


in case anyone is looking for it, 749 from visualapex right now!


----------



## uncola

This projector is really cheap now! Great deal if you don't need.

So I'm playing with x.v. color mode.. my intel gpu seems to set RGB Limited 16-255 mode automatically which is cool.. I also noticed I have xvycc mode available in the intel driver menus.. is it a good idea to enable it, then change the epson 8350 color mode from cinema to xv color? Anyone have an opinion on this? I tried it out and blacks seemed blacker but maybe TOO black? I'll run digital video essentials to calibrate it later tonight


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I am also liking the x.v. color mode over the Cinema mode for certain movies. Seems there are movies that look better in certain modes, for example, Finding Nemo really stands out if you use Living Room mode, in Cinema mode Nemo looks a bit soft and lacks some of the detail you see in the brighter color modes.


----------



## DrewB

stuart628 said:


> http://www.visualapex.com/Epson/Projector-Specifications.asp?For-The=Home-Cinema-8345
> 
> 
> in case anyone is looking for it, 749 from visualapex right now!


So tempting...I got the 8350 at BB just 3 weeks ago for $950 out the door. Plus I'm seeing, here and there, that the 8345 is the exact same projector minus the bulb issues. Hmmmm.............


----------



## stuart628

DrewB said:


> So tempting...I got the 8350 at BB just 3 weeks ago for $950 out the door. Plus I'm seeing, here and there, that the 8345 is the exact same projector minus the bulb issues. Hmmmm.............


I have been nothing but happy with this projector...2 days lol. I called a installer on these boards whose opinions I trust, he said it is an 8350 with all the bugs worked out.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Ordered an 8345, should arrive tomorrow. Once I get it installed, I will post if I notice any differences from my 8350. As someone already posted, they only measured minor differences in light output and contrast so I'm not expecting to see any differences in the new model.


----------



## dude2006

Mr.G said:


> The dark part is stationary. The beige part is the section that flips up as indicated by the yellow arrow. The red arrows point to the 2 hinges, one on each side. It's easier to see and do once you open up your projector.


 
Pardon my ignorance, but still a little unclear - should I be spraying the ribbons themselves, or the LCD panels?


----------



## Kilgore

dude2006 said:


> Pardon my ignorance, but still a little unclear - should I be spraying the ribbons themselves, or the LCD panels?


 You need to spray the panels, to which of course the ribbons are attached.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

I have the 8345, is there a setting for using a computer? 

I'll post up pics once I get my screen up tomorrow. I had to get a new screen so hope this one is better


----------



## stuart628

If you have the right room for this projector it truly is a great machine...picture quality if you have great convergence is top notch, gaming is GREAT on it. Sadly mine had to go back as I dont have the best light control yet and anything in the day time is just not up to what I need...Night time though, wow this thing was a beast....if you have semi good light control and need a good projector, I dont think you could go wrong on this, especially if 3D is not needed or wanted.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

johnnyknoxsvill said:


> I have the 8345, is there a setting for using a computer?
> 
> I'll post up pics once I get my screen up tomorrow. I had to get a new screen so hope this one is better


HOW are you planing to connect? I use HDMI and set my PC's video to 1920x1080 60Hz and it's just great.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

I have it setup through HDMI but sometimes I get like a white flash on the bottom quarter of the screen almost like its trying to refresh. I'll go in and try to adjust the settings on my computer.


----------



## MrDell

*8345*

I just set up the 8345 a few months ago and I am very pleased with it. ( Paid $899.00 at Amazon ) Great picture on a 100 in. screen. It is a bit bulky but it is whisper quiet and placement options are great!


----------



## HTPC_Dude

Moved from an Epson 8350 to the 8345. Appears to be basically the same unit. The convergence of this unit appears to be slightly better. The lens shift adjustment is also a little better on the 8345, the 8350 had a lot of slop in the mechanism making it difficult to adjust the picture in small increments.

I only have a few hours on the 8345 but the only negatives I can find is the fan seems to have a slightly different noise or whine that the 8350 did not have, can't say the fan is any louder but it has a different higher pitch noise. Maybe the fan bearing, hopefully after a few more hours of use it quiets down a bit. Also, the AutoIris seems to be a little more active, I notice the AutoIris noise a bit more on this unit.

As others have stated, Epson changed a few things related to lamp life and AutoIris, the two things I noticed with the fan and AutoIris are most likely a result of those changes.

As far as picture quality goes, what I'm seeing appears to be very similar to the 8350, I have not done any calibrations yet but out of the box I made a few adjustments for brightness and contrast but overall a very good picture, with better convergence than my 8350. If anyone is trying to decide between the two, go for the lower priced 8345, it's the best deal available for a projector in this price range. I also took advantage of the Epson loyalty program and was able to purchase the 8345 direct from Epson for $749 w/free shipping so a great price as well.


----------



## Project H

I haven't been on the forums a while but I noticed that the 8350 is priced significantly lower at around 850 now - previously it was selling for about 1299 on amazon. Also, there appears to be a new model 8345. How does this compare to the 8350? Is the 8350 being discontinued?

I actually own a 8350 for about a year and have 50 hours on it. I wanted to know what I should be doing maintenance wise to ensure it keeps performing optimally? Do I need to clean any filters or put the lens cap on it when not in use? I am reluctant to use the lens cap because i feel it would change my zoom/focus. Do you guys use anything to clean the lens?

Thanks


----------



## robertw11

Picked up an 8350 refurb a few months ago, unfortunately it took a little longer to finish my theater space. The projector sat in its box for 3 months. 

Finally got a chance to set it up, and all was great for the first 20-30hrs. Now there's a slight reddish / pink tint on the bottom right corner of the screen on all white images.

Should I be calling Epson for warranty work or an exchange? I bought the projector from visual apex, and from what I understand is Epson refurbs carry a 2 year warranty.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Contact Epson for warranty replacement. Sounds like a convergence issue... look very closely at the pixels, using text on a white background makes it easy to see them. 

Before you do, you DO have the image properly aimed/shifted? You can have the image so askew that the geometry isn't correct, angles aren't 90-degrees and this can cause convergence issues.


----------



## robertw11

The projector is perfectly level. I am using some lens shift. I'll try to capture the issue with my camera and post it up to see if it's normal or not. I really don't want to deal with shipping this out and getting another projector with issues, which seems to be par for the course with Epson.

Edit: Called Epson, and they're sending me another unit. Gearing up to start the game, but hopefully the new unit performs better than my current unit. The red hazy tint is only viewable on a white image, and isn't really noticeable in movies. Hopefully I'm not making a mountain out of a mole hole here. I just want a projector without issues, even if this is nit picky.


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> The projector is perfectly level. I am using some lens shift. I'll try to capture the issue with my camera and post it up to see if it's normal or not. I really don't want to deal with shipping this out and getting another projector with issues, which seems to be par for the course with Epson.
> 
> Edit: Called Epson, and they're sending me another unit. Gearing up to start the game, but hopefully the new unit performs better than my current unit. The red hazy tint is only viewable on a white image, and isn't really noticeable in movies. Hopefully I'm not making a mountain out of a mole hole here. I just want a projector without issues, even if this is nit picky.



You may find the odd horror story every once in awhile, but I can say that Epson's customer service the finest I've ever experience from any company in my entire life. And I'm not exaggerating. For me, they have been exemplary.


----------



## robertw11

We'll see. I've read enough about people getting replacements with their own issues, and going through 3-4 projectors before one is acceptable enough to keep. I should have bought new, and not factory refurbished.


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> We'll see. I've read enough about people getting replacements with their own issues, and going through 3-4 projectors before one is acceptable enough to keep. I should have bought new, and not factory refurbished.


 
Yes, but what you don't read are the numerous people who get one replacement and are completely satisfied. These are the people who don't comment. The only ones in general who take the time to comment on their experiences are the ones who had bad experiences.


You always hear about the plane crash that kills 200 people but you hear nothing about the thousands of flights that occur every day without incident.


In any case, what other company with keep sending you projectors until you get one you're happy with? Without costing you a dime? Shipping a 20 lb PJ back and forth ain't cheap.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

The only thing I've noticed with my 8345 is when I'm using my computer I get what appears to be snowflake like effects just on the lower left hand side.


----------



## whiskyman

*out of focus- throw distance*

I have a almost 3 yr old 8350, with just over 1000 hrs on bulb, been using a 100" screen with a 13' 4'" throw with good results, I recently thought picture was getting a little dull/fuzzy, then I upgrades to an elite 120" screen, now I think the problem is a little worse, projector central pro calculator says my 13' 4" throw is not optimal, they recommend 16' 1", so looking for opinions, is my fuzzy dull problem the projector being to close? or is it my bulb output, or likely both? thanks in advance


----------



## robertw11

Kilgore said:


> Yes, but what you don't read are the numerous people who get one replacement and are completely satisfied. These are the people who don't comment. The only ones in general who take the time to comment on their experiences are the ones who had bad experiences.
> 
> 
> You always hear about the plane crash that kills 200 people but you hear nothing about the thousands of flights that occur every day without incident.
> 
> 
> In any case, what other company with keep sending you projectors until you get one you're happy with? Without costing you a dime? Shipping a 20 lb PJ back and forth ain't cheap.


I like your optimism. We'll see how this replacement fares.


----------



## whiskyman

whiskyman said:


> I have a almost 3 yr old 8350, with just over 1000 hrs on bulb, been using a 100" screen with a 13' 4'" throw with good results, I recently thought picture was getting a little dull/fuzzy, then I upgrades to an elite 120" screen, now I think the problem is a little worse, projector central pro calculator says my 13' 4" throw is not optimal, they recommend 16' 1", so looking for opinions, is my fuzzy dull problem the projector being to close? or is it my bulb output, or likely both? thanks in advance


We'll I got my answer, the bulb quit today, 975 hours but almost 3 yrs old


----------



## kevinwoodward

whiskyman said:


> We'll I got my answer, the bulb quit today, 975 hours but almost 3 yrs old


can you let us know about the distance vs. the new bulb when you get it
sounds like the distance is probably not an issue if the bulb was going?

got an eta on the new one?


----------



## whiskyman

i ordered a premium power replacement, supposed to be in by wednesday,


----------



## latenight

Let me preface this by saying I'm an idiot. I didn't have a screensaver on my HTPC and somehow my projector got left on for days on the movie select screen (on the movie 2 Guns). I tried leaving it off for 2 days and it got a little better but not much. 

I attached a pic below. 

My guess is it burned the image into the polarizer since it was on for so long. 

Any ideas on how to fix this? I am way outside of warranty. Epson still might be my safest bet but im not sure. 

Help!!!!!


----------



## ben38

latenight said:


> Let me preface this by saying I'm an idiot. I didn't have a screensaver on my HTPC and somehow my projector got left on for days on the movie select screen (on the movie 2 Guns). I tried leaving it off for 2 days and it got a little better but not much.
> 
> I attached a pic below.
> 
> My guess is it burned the image into the polarizer since it was on for so long.
> 
> Any ideas on how to fix this? I am way outside of warranty. Epson still might be my safest bet but im not sure.
> 
> Help!!!!!


 My wife did something similar while i was at work. When i came home to watch a movie, i saw the EPSON logo burned in. Of course, little miss innocent had no idea how that could have possibly happened. Anyway, after a few days, with normal use, the logo faded away.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I'd second the position it'll fade... LCDs are not suppored to be subject to burn-in as were CRTs.

975 hours on 3-year bulb, blew... I'd also contact Epson SINCE it has so few hours (they advertise 200+) when it went THEY are causing you to purchase a new bulb (in your case) three years sooner than you'd budgeted for! See if you can have them send you a "1-time adjustment" and send a new bulb... suggest they update their literature if it's NOT accurate! ALSO, the closer the better for PJs as it 'opens' the lens up allowing more lumens to pass... I don't agree that a longer throw distance is optimal... this is the FIRST I've heard that poistion.

I'm one who had the auto-iris and Epson sent me a refurb. Once and done... not several, just once. They also sent me a replacement bulb when I complained (see earlier post) it didn't last the advertised # of hours...


----------



## whiskyman

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> I'd second the position it'll fade... LCDs are not suppored to be subject to burn-in as were CRTs.
> 
> 975 hours on 3-year bulb, blew... I'd also contact Epson SINCE it has so few hours (they advertise 200+) when it went THEY are causing you to purchase a new bulb (in your case) three years sooner than you'd budgeted for! See if you can have them send you a "1-time adjustment" and send a new bulb... suggest they update their literature if it's NOT accurate! ALSO, the closer the better for PJs as it 'opens' the lens up allowing more lumens to pass... I don't agree that a longer throw distance is optimal... this is the FIRST I've heard that poistion.
> 
> I'm one who had the auto-iris and Epson sent me a refurb. Once and done... not several, just once. They also sent me a replacement bulb when I complained (see earlier post) it didn't last the advertised # of hours...


i got ahold of epson, they are going to send me a replacement bulb,with no warranty? ill probably keep the one i ordered to just in case, ive got the upgrade bug too, new laser light source projectors are coming.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I'm guessing 'with no warranty' means they hope you get a good life out of the bulb, but they will not offer you another one since at 3 years old they are outside the 2 year wrranty. THIS is a GREAT deal for you -- a free bulb!

Since you only use your Epson 975/3 years = 325 hours/year you'll have plenty of time to wait out the technology before you upgrade!


----------



## robertw11

So the replacement 8350 arrived yesterday, and I got a chance to set it up today. This one's even worse than the one it's replacing. This replacement unit has a green vertical band on the right side of the screen, white text has pink / blue edging, and it has a dust blog.

This is unreal, and I can't believe I was sent this pile of trash as my "replacement". 

Has anyone ever received a refund from Epson? I just want my money back at this point, I don't have the time to play this exchange game in hopes of getting a unit that has issues, just potentially less issues.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Take pictures to document, document, document. Then, be patient and contact Epson with the findings. They'll send another and we all know how GREAT this PJ is... after a few tries you'll be satisfied or they'll up the ante with a 'new' unit. Be sure to question THEM in how both the refurb and it's replacement are not up to their standards, and their quality control in shipping BOTH of these units as "consumer ready" when they are not.


----------



## whiskyman

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> I'm guessing 'with no warranty' means they hope you get a good life out of the bulb, but they will not offer you another one since at 3 years old they are outside the 2 year wrranty. THIS is a GREAT deal for you -- a free bulb!
> 
> Since you only use your Epson 975/3 years = 325 hours/year you'll have plenty of time to wait out the technology before you upgrade!


well, i put the generic bulb in today, it has a horizontal line directly in the middle of screen all the way across. i uninstalled it and reinstalled it 3 times, thinking i didnt get the bulb seated correctly, still there, so now i wait for the epson replacment bulb, hoping there isnt a problem with the projector itself.


----------



## Tolone

I had the same problem some other users lamented with the horizontal line with a new generic bulb. I received the new bulb yesterday, installed in my 8350, and immediately noticed the very annoying horizontal line right in the middle of the screen. I immediately though the bulb was defective because I did not have the issue with the old Epson bulb. I read some of other users experience and I try to re-seat the bulb multiple times to no avail. I noticed that the replacement bulb uses a rubber washer to retain the mounting screw from falling when you old the lamp upside down. These washers basically end up between the lamp body and the projector once the lamp is installed. I decided to remove the washers and install the lam without them (had to use magnetic screwdriver to mount the screws). The line is gone and I cannot see any problem now, the picture is great.


----------



## whiskyman

well thanks for the tip, I looked at the replacement bulb, but no washers, hum?


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

johnnyknoxsvill said:


> I have it setup through HDMI but sometimes I get like a white flash on the bottom quarter of the screen almost like its trying to refresh. I'll go in and try to adjust the settings on my computer.


I'm getting the white flashes quite a bit now when using my HTPC. I've also noticed alot of snow like artifacts on the left hand side of the screen. Has anyone encountered this with their 8345? I'm past the return period from B&H so it looks like I will have to call Epson on this, unless B&H will allow me to return it. I'm running it hooked up through an HDMI extender using Cat6.


----------



## robertw11

So Epson sent me a brand new unit. Set this one up, all is well. No issues.

What are people using for calibration settings?
Are these settings any good?
http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-8350-projector-calibration-and-settings/


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> So Epson sent me a brand new unit. Set this one up, all is well. No issues.
> 
> What are people using for calibration settings?
> Are these settings any good?
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-8350-projector-calibration-and-settings/



So what do you think of Epson's customer service now?


----------



## robertw11

Kilgore said:


> So what do you think of Epson's customer service now?


It should never have even gotten to this point, that's how I feel about this situation. If the refurbs are not actually fixed and operating as new, please don't sell them. 

The customer service is great, the hassle is of exchanging projector after projector is not.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

johnnyknoxsvill said:


> I'm getting the white flashes quite a bit now when using my HTPC. I've also noticed alot of snow like artifacts on the left hand side of the screen. Has anyone encountered this with their 8345? I'm past the return period from B&H so it looks like I will have to call Epson on this, unless B&H will allow me to return it. I'm running it hooked up through an HDMI extender using Cat6.


I think I figured out the problem, I'm running an HDMI extender using cat6. When I unplug the HDMI from the projector I get no white flashes or the snow like artifacts. Anyone here using an HDMI extender, if so what brand are you using?

Otherwise I will have someone come out and run a 50ft HDMI cable that I have.


----------



## whiskyman

whiskyman said:


> well thanks for the tip, I looked at the replacement bulb, but no washers, hum?


 ok, I got the factory bulb today, put it in, no lines or problems anywhere, picture seems better also,
I did give the generic bulb some play time to see if the line would go away, no luck.


----------



## whiskyman

ok, after watching dtv football tonight, I have never seen this picture so good, im wondering if I didn't have a week bulb from the beginning or at least for a long while. I think my upgrade bug might be dying


----------



## Kilgore

whiskyman said:


> ok, after watching dtv football tonight, I have never seen this picture so good, im wondering if I didn't have a week bulb from the beginning or at least for a long while. I think my upgrade bug might be dying



Understandably, people are always looking for cheap lamps. My experience over the years has told me to always spend the money and get official lamps from the original company. I've tried budget lamps on occasion and always found them to be inferior for one reason or another.


----------



## rakstr

I use multiple HDMI extender brands with no problems. I use "official HDBaseT" and "proprietary" technologies, all of the single cable variety. I even run some of the connections over Cat5 and 5E (because that was already there and it worked). Many places that "noise" could be entering. Check your "crimps" on your cables. Check your HDMI cables at both ends for firm fit. Don't use 28AWG cables. ...

What brand are you running. How far are you running? Are you running across a lot of electric? Did you run the Cat6? Are you sure it's "clean"? How about some more details on your setup/problems first so the discussion can focus. You say the artifacts go away, are you replacing the signal with another device? Sorry if I missed any of this in previous posts. This is what I hate about this BBS software, everything gets tossed into on huge thread instead of topics.

PS - I also have run long 50+ foot HDMI cables (monoprice) and that can be problematic too. Can be VERY dependent on the transmit/receive characteristics of the HDMI devices on each end.



johnnyknoxsvill said:


> I think I figured out the problem, I'm running an HDMI extender using cat6. When I unplug the HDMI from the projector I get no white flashes or the snow like artifacts. Anyone here using an HDMI extender, if so what brand are you using?
> 
> Otherwise I will have someone come out and run a 50ft HDMI cable that I have.


----------



## mxyz

*4:4:4 chroma subsampling via PC?*

Is there a way to get 4:4:4 chroma subsampling to work? I'm using HDMI out on my GTX 670 and only getting 4:2:2

http://i3.minus.com/ibyJcwdIniHUEs.png


----------



## robertw11

So hopefully this is can be easily answered, I have my pc, ps3, and xbox one all hooked up to a denon x2000 which is hooked up to the 8350. I use the PS3 for Netflix and blu rays, the Xbox one for games, and the PC primarily for games and media playback. 

Just wondering what settings to use in the ps3, pc, and xbox one, settings like superwhite, rbg full / limited, 24bit vs 36bit etc

Any help would be great thanks.


----------



## rakstr

Please post here so others have an opportunity to contribute!!!! In response to your PM

Can you directly connect these items to the PJ with a quality HDMI cable and not get the artifacts?

Can you try the extender on another TV with the same devices using a short CAT6 cable to eliminate the CAT6 run as the issue and validate your extender works? Perhaps you need to exchange the extender.

You need to do a process of elimination IMHO.

I get all my cables from Monoprice and I've got the following that work flawlessly.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011307&p_id=81 59&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=81 22&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091401&p_id=10 225&seq=1&format=2



rakstr said:


> I use multiple HDMI extender brands with no problems. I use "official HDBaseT" and "proprietary" technologies, all of the single cable variety. I even run some of the connections over Cat5 and 5E (because that was already there and it worked). Many places that "noise" could be entering. Check your "crimps" on your cables. Check your HDMI cables at both ends for firm fit. Don't use 28AWG cables. ...
> 
> What brand are you running. How far are you running? Are you running across a lot of electric? Did you run the Cat6? Are you sure it's "clean"? How about some more details on your setup/problems first so the discussion can focus. You say the artifacts go away, are you replacing the signal with another device? Sorry if I missed any of this in previous posts. This is what I hate about this BBS software, everything gets tossed into on huge thread instead of topics.
> 
> PS - I also have run long 50+ foot HDMI cables (monoprice) and that can be problematic too. Can be VERY dependent on the transmit/receive characteristics of the HDMI devices on each end.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

rakstr said:


> Please post here so others have an opportunity to contribute!!!! In response to your PM
> 
> Can you directly connect these items to the PJ with a quality HDMI cable and not get the artifacts?
> 
> Can you try the extender on another TV with the same devices using a short CAT6 cable to eliminate the CAT6 run as the issue and validate your extender works? Perhaps you need to exchange the extender.
> 
> You need to do a process of elimination IMHO.
> 
> I get all my cables from Monoprice and I've got the following that work flawlessly.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011307&p_id=81 59&seq=1&format=2
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=81 22&seq=1&format=2
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091401&p_id=10 225&seq=1&format=2



It's hard to check the PJ as it is mounted 9 ft up over the kitchen counter. I was planing on doing a process of elimination but wanted to see if anyone here had experienced anything like the problems I'm having. Also what were the products you listed as each one just links to the homepage. The HDMI cables I'm using are 28 AWG, should I be using something else for my cables? 

I will report back my findings. I have a feeling it might be the 2 Cat6 runs.


----------



## rakstr

Do the "on the floor" test with all your components and a different 1080P TV (if you have one). YES you should be using "better HDMI cables". Per the link you PM'd me (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...age_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=viglink20246-20) you have "Fully Shielded Heavy Duty *30 Gauge*" cables. They are designated high speed so test them as indicated but I'd still replace them with 24AWG or better high speed cables. Just my preference.... I've had cables like these provided with electronics be bad out of the box.

I looked at your extender and have no experience. It's pretty sparse with the specifications. After looking, I don't understand your reference to "2" CAT6 runs. The device you linked to only appears to require a single CAT6. (http://www.kanexpro.com/item/?id=HDEXT50M)

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011307&p_id=8159&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091401&p_id=10225&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=8122&seq=1&format=2

You may also want to review this
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/36-ho...e-problems-solutions-read-before-posting.html



johnnyknoxsvill said:


> It's hard to check the PJ as it is mounted 9 ft up over the kitchen counter. I was planing on doing a process of elimination but wanted to see if anyone here had experienced anything like the problems I'm having. Also what were the products you listed as each one just links to the homepage. The HDMI cables I'm using are 28 AWG, should I be using something else for my cables?
> 
> I will report back my findings. I have a feeling it might be the 2 Cat6 runs.


----------



## rakstr

Did you find anything? Always nice to hear back...


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

Nothing yet. I ordered some new HDMI cables as you suggested. Im going to be ordering a new hdmi extender as well. I called the guys who installed the projector and they will be coming out next week to take a look at it as well, free of charge of course..lol


----------



## rakstr

Curious,why wouldn't you test what you have first ?



johnnyknoxsvill said:


> Nothing yet. I ordered some new HDMI cables as you suggested. Im going to be ordering a new hdmi extender as well. I called the guys who installed the projector and they will be coming out next week to take a look at it as well, free of charge of course..lol


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

rakstr said:


> Curious,why wouldn't you test what you have first ?


I used one of my 50ft hdmi cables for a direct hook up to the PS3 (as I did when I first got the projector) and didn't notice any snow like artifacts, So I can only assume its the extender. To be on the safe side I ordered new cables and will switch out the extender as the 50ft cable shouldn't be used at that length.


----------



## rakstr

OK but you also could have tested "on the floor"

PS3 ->HDMI ->extender -> short CAT 6 cable -> Extender -> HDMI ->TV/PJ



johnnyknoxsvill said:


> I used one of my 50ft hdmi cables for a direct hook up to the PS3 (as I did when I first got the projector) and didn't notice any snow like artifacts, So I can only assume its the extender. To be on the safe side I ordered new cables and will switch out the extender as the 50ft cable shouldn't be used at that length.


----------



## johnnyknoxsvill

rakstr said:


> OK but you also could have tested "on the floor"
> 
> PS3 ->HDMI ->extender -> short CAT 6 cable -> Extender -> HDMI ->TV/PJ


Yeah I did it a little backwards lol but it really is a PIA to get the PJ down. I'm 99% sure its the extender causing the problem. If it is indeed the Cat6 cables he said he would re-run those at no charge. I checked out the Extender link you posted, that's a good read and very informative.


----------



## rakstr

I thought you said you ran a 50 ft HDMI to the PJ. Use that as one of the HDMI in my "diagram" (assuming you don't have another TV)



johnnyknoxsvill said:


> Yeah I did it a little backwards lol but it really is a PIA to get the PJ down. I'm 99% sure its the extender causing the problem. If it is indeed the Cat6 cables he said he would re-run those at no charge. I checked out the Extender link you posted, that's a good read and very informative.


----------



## F12Bwth

Hey guy's.. I know the front of the 8350's focus ring is threaded so is there an anamorphic lens to buy for our babies that will give us full 21:9 - 2.35:1 or do we have to modify with some crazy random lenses to get the same effect/benefit?


----------



## Mr.G

F12Bwth said:


> Hey guy's.. I know the front of the 8350's focus ring is threaded so is there an anamorphic lens to buy for our babies that will give us full 21:9 - 2.35:1 or do we have to modify with some crazy random lenses to get the same effect/benefit?


Putting a $3000 anamorphic lens on a $900 projector doesn't make much sense.

http://shop.avscience.com/Anamorphic-Lenses_c_36.html

So that leaves you with the DIY route if you are still intent on an anamorphic lens.

http://www.zuggsoft.com/theater/prism.htm


----------



## F12Bwth

DAYUM... I knew they were expensive but 3K is dumb. Will have to research the DIY aspect.

What do you think the ramifications of using something like this would be? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anamorphic-lens-35NAP2-3M-for-projector-s-n-6007531-Old-stock-/150958038316

My biggest worry is it would need the projector at the longest zoom setting resulting in a tiny screen size unless you could put it 30+ feet away. I guess I should also worry about the ratio it is pushing. It isn't listed and 80-140 is pretty vague.


----------



## robertw11

Anyone have some recommenced settings for the 8350? I know every projector and room is different but just wondering what a good baseline to start with settings would be? The projector is setup in a room with complete light control, so it's dark at all times.

Right now I'm using these

Cinema Mode
Contrast = 0
Brightness = 1
Color saturation = -7
Tint = 0
Color temp = 6500
Gamma = 2.4
Eco mode

RGB Settings:
Offset
R = -5
G = 0
B = -7

Gain
R = -1
G = -1
B = 0


----------



## Mr.G

robertw11 said:


> Anyone have some recommenced settings for the 8350? I know every projector and room is different but just wondering what a good baseline to start with settings would be? The projector is setup in a room with complete light control, so it's dark at all times.
> 
> Right now I'm using these
> 
> Cinema Mode
> Contrast = 0
> Brightness = 1
> Color saturation = -7
> Tint = 0
> Color temp = 6500
> Gamma = 2.4
> Eco mode
> 
> RGB Settings:
> Offset
> R = -5
> G = 0
> B = -7
> 
> Gain
> R = -1
> G = -1
> B = 0


As you say every projector environment is different. Always best to calibrate for own home theater.

You may not know that AVS has free calibration software for download. Burn it to DVD or Blu-ray.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

Best (free) way to go in my opinion.


----------



## buggy09

I just spoke to Epson support and asked for the official Lamp replacement policy, they said flat out 90 days period. what gives? I read everywhere that it was 2 years


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

buggy09 said:


> I just spoke to Epson support and asked for the official Lamp replacement policy, they said flat out 90 days period. what gives? I read everywhere that it was 2 years


That IS their official policy... I don't think any of us can help you if that's all you're going to post. I went back 3 pages (to 10/30/14) and you've not shared with us ANY issue you're experiencing, when you purchased, or why you want to have Epson share with you their policy. In fact, you simply _asked_ their policy, what were you expecting? Their customer service bends over backwards to help a customer yet you're simply asking their policy.


----------



## buggy09

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> That IS their official policy... I don't think any of us can help you if that's all you're going to post. I went back 3 pages (to 10/30/14) and you've not shared with us ANY issue you're experiencing, when you purchased, or why you want to have Epson share with you their policy. In fact, you simply _asked_ their policy, what were you expecting? Their customer service bends over backwards to help a customer yet you're simply asking their policy.



I am currently interested in purchasing the 8350, however I have read so many horror stories about early lamp failures. I wanted to hear the truth directly from the source before committing to a purchase. 90 days is not reassuring at all considering how early the lamp burns out for so many folks.


----------



## ben38

buggy09 said:


> I am currently interested in purchasing the 8350, however I have read so many horror stories about early lamp failures. I wanted to hear the truth directly from the source before committing to a purchase. 90 days is not reassuring at all considering how early the lamp burns out for so many folks.


 Don't waste your money on the 8350. Get the 8345. It's an updated version of the 8350. Pay no attention to the spec numbers. What minor, imperceptible differences exist between the two models are tweaks that make the 8345 more reliable. Trust me. I've had them both side by side. They are virtual twins. 
The only rational explanation i can think of for the 8350 continuing to exist in the market is: Epson made lots and lots of 8350's that needed to be sold off. 
Let Epson keep their old 8350's and get the 8345. It's cheaper and it's better.

P.S. My third floor neighbor has been running his 8345 in normal lamp/Living room mode since the day he bought it a little less than a year ago. He's now approaching 2200 hours of use and the picture still looks great. By comparison, the lamp on my 8350 became intolerably dim after 1300 hours, so i replaced it. It's now past 500 hours and is starting to dim again.


----------



## buggy09

ben38 said:


> Don't waste your money on the 8350. Get the 8345. It's an updated version of the 8350. Pay no attention to the spec numbers. What minor, imperceptible differences exist between the two models are tweaks that make the 8345 more reliable. Trust me. I've had them both side by side. They are virtual twins.
> The only rational explanation i can think of for the 8350 continuing to exist in the market is: Epson made lots and lots of 8350's that needed to be sold off.
> Let Epson keep their old 8350's and get the 8345. It's cheaper and it's better.
> 
> P.S. My third floor neighbor has been running his 8345 in normal lamp/Living room mode since the day he bought it a little less than a year ago. He's now approaching 2200 hours of use and the picture still looks great. By comparison, the lamp on my 8350 became intolerably dim after 1300 hours, so i replaced it. It's now past 500 hours and is starting to dim again.


Thanks for your input, any idea how much of an improvement if any that projector will be over my sanyo-z5?


----------



## ben38

buggy09 said:


> Thanks for your input, any idea how much of an improvement if any that projector will be over my sanyo-z5?


Really couldn't say apart from the boost to 1080p. The Z5 was an excellent projector for it's time.
The 8345 is probably a tad brighter.


----------



## robertw11

Wish I knew about the 8345 when I bought my 8350. So much hassle to even get a trouble free 8350 (exchanges), and it's still going to be a problem with bulb life. This is my first projector, and even though I did my research I guess I didn't do enough to learn about Epson's quirks like the 8000 series hunger for bulbs, and Epson's unsealed light paths (dust blogs). Thank god I didn't spend a fortune because once the 8350 becomes too much of an expense or hassle to own I jumping ship to Sony.

I'm running the 8350 on Cinema mode with Eco mode enabled, can I at least get 2000 hrs before the bulb dims or pops? That's half the advertised hours...

I read somewhere that Epson changed bulb suppliers and that the bulbs last a bit longer now?


----------



## monnerat

Im very happy with my 8350, but unfortunately, recently it has started to present a crank noise when started. After a few seconds the noise stops. It is like a gear running on the top of another. Something like a ´brrrrr´.
Auto Iris is off.
Anyone has any experience with that?


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

Could simply be a fan bearing. 

As for the 8350 vs 8345 vs Sony, the pricing on the 8350 has been CHEAP ($775 - 888) recently, perhaps trying to sell off some of that "stockpiled" inventory while making room for the 8345? Sure, Epson may be running the voltage on the 8345 a tad bit lower (hence the 1800 vs 2000 lumen rating) which may extend bulb life (regardless of manufacturing issues), but you can't go wrong with either! As one stated, it's a cheap projector with a GREAT image! Try saying that about a Sony! I've had two Sony models (VPL-VW10HT 1366x768 $8,000 MSRP, and VPL-AW15 1280x720 $1,200 MSRP) both of which had great images for their time, yet the pricing of a Sony w/1920x1080 is still in the $2,500+ arena... so remember this when you consider replacing a bulb, or blow out a blob... the Epson product is a GREAT product and their customer service is trying desperately to keep those of us (however many, _or few_) with issues as "happy campers" when they provide a free lamp, or exchange the unit as may be the case. *Cudos to Epson!*


----------



## robertw11

Well the issues continue. My new 8350 now has two green dust blobs. 

This is the last Epson product I ever purchase.


----------



## buggy09

what do you guys think of putting a thin paper tissue or a homemade filter wedged in the front vent? will that stop dust blobs from entering?


----------



## Mr.G

buggy09 said:


> what do you guys think of putting a thin paper tissue or a homemade filter wedged in the front vent? will that stop dust blobs from entering?


Counter-intuitive as it may seem dust blobs are often created _inside_ the projector. Often this comes from dust accumulations on the power supply fan which is not filtered. They build up over months or years, become dislodged and end up on the LCD panels. It's usually a simple matter to blow these blobs out.

Cleaning the air filter on most LCD projectors helps keep the airway clear between outside air and the hot lamp which needs cooling.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

robertw11 said:


> Well the issues continue. My new 8350 now has two green dust blobs.
> 
> This is the last Epson product I ever purchase.


I had this issue on my 8350 about two years ago, it was a simple procedure to used some canned air an blow them out. I think the procedure was outlined earlier in this thread, look for post 7661 on page 256. I quoted the procedure that was posted by another forum member there.

After I did it the one time, they dust blobs never came back.


----------



## robertw11

HTPC_Dude said:


> I had this issue on my 8350 about two years ago, it was a simple procedure to used some canned air an blow them out. I think the procedure was outlined earlier in this thread, look for post 7661 on page 256. I quoted the procedure that was posted by another forum member there.
> 
> After I did it the one time, they dust blobs never came back.


I've done the procedure 4 times already. I got one of the blobs out, the other I can't get out and it's dead center on the screen.


----------



## robertw11

I did the cleaning procedure again and I can't get rid of one a green blob. How difficult is it to get to the mirrors? I have been blowing air on the green LCD without much luck, so I'm thinking the dust must be on one of the mirrors.


----------



## robertw11

Is it possible to have dust on the mirrors? Its a green blob so I assumed its dust on the green panel. Looking inside the lens when the projector is on I can see what looks like a small hair, tiny fuzz. 

Am I see dust on a lcd, mirror, or on the inside of the lens? I've blown quite a bit of air on the lcd panels and at the inside of the lens, and I can't get rid of this one fuzz. Maybe its burnt on a mirror.


----------



## Mr.G

robertw11 said:


> Is it possible to have dust on the mirrors? Its a green blob so I assumed its dust on the green panel. Looking inside the lens when the projector is on I can see what looks like a small hair, tiny fuzz.
> 
> Am I see dust on a lcd, mirror, or on the inside of the lens? I've blown quite a bit of air on the lcd panels and at the inside of the lens, and I can't get rid of this one fuzz. Maybe its burnt on a mirror.


Ideally you want to detach the LCD cable from the board in order to get a good shot of air into the panel area. Dust blobs show up best on the green LCD panel, however the dust could be on the red or blue panels. They should all be blown out.

A fine layer of dust itself will not show up on the screen, just dust blobs.

Use two cans of compressed air being careful not to let the liquid propellant out. When one gets too cold, switch to the other. Standing the projector on end so it is upright helps to keep the can of compressed air upright as well. Detach the ribbon cable from the board by flipping up the clamp that holds it in place. Using your compressed air work your way back and forth parallel to the LCD panel using a sweeping motion. Don't be stingy with the air, you want to dislodge it and blow it out of that area.

It's not unusual for people to try several times to get a dust blob out before it's finally blown out.


----------



## DrewB

Had my 8350 for around two months...watched about a dozen movies on it. No gaming.

Tried to turn it on today and all I hear is a loud fan...and it can only be shut off from the main power switch. Unbelievable!


----------



## robertw11

Mr.G said:


> Ideally you want to detach the LCD cable from the board in order to get a good shot of air into the panel area. Dust blobs show up best on the green LCD panel, however the dust could be on the red or blue panels. They should all be blown out.
> 
> A fine layer of dust itself will not show up on the screen, just dust blobs.
> 
> Use two cans of compressed air being careful not to let the liquid propellant out. When one gets too cold, switch to the other. Standing the projector on end so it is upright helps to keep the can of compressed air upright as well. Detach the ribbon cable from the board by flipping up the clamp that holds it in place. Using your compressed air work your way back and forth parallel to the LCD panel using a sweeping motion. Don't be stingy with the air, you want to dislodge it and blow it out of that area.
> 
> It's not unusual for people to try several times to get a dust blob out before it's finally blown out.


I followed your instructions, and got the blob out. Once I detached the ribbon cables I could see I wasn't blowing the air down far enough to work the panels before. So the 7th times the charm.

Thanks for the tips, and quick response.


----------



## hasba

*Dust problem?*

Hi!

I've read this topic quite long. My projector is about three years old. I've suffered from dust blobs some time and now i don't know what's up with it. When i turn focus all the way out the image has these little red and blue dots all around!

I've tried cleaning it many times. Today i pulled the main circuit board out and used a lot of air straight to the panels and still no help.
When i took the lamp off it had a lot of "glitter" fallen from it. So i was wondering could that been sucked inside of the pj? Can't yet attach images so...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mr.G

robertw11 said:


> I followed your instructions, and got the blob out. Once I detached the ribbon cables I could see I wasn't blowing the air down far enough to work the panels before. So the 7th times the charm.
> 
> Thanks for the tips, and quick response.


Glad to hear it worked out for you. A side benefit is that *if* there was a fine layer of dust on the panels it's also gone now, which can lead to a slightly brighter and clearer picture.


----------



## Mr.G

Mrshawn said:


> Hey guys
> 
> Hoping to gain a little insight here. Troubleshooting
> 
> Quick facts
> original bulb 1500hrs
> new generic bulb 4hrs
> wont turn on without fiddling
> once on all is perfect zero problems
> 
> OK when I press the on button it will usually display the epson logo then the lamp goes out. It does this three times then the red lamp light flashes.
> If i pull the plug. toggle power switch sometimes pull lamp out/in it turns on fine and works perfect until it is shutdown again. This made me wonder if it was just a bulb problem or something more serious. I ordered a cheap generic bulb. Installed it, tested turning it off/on for a day or two and all was good again ( expect picture quality) Today I couldn't get it to start no matter what i tried. So I put the original bulb back in and it fired right up. Watched a movie turned it off. Turned it back on in the afternoon no problems again. Went to watch a movie tonight and it wont start again. Once again I fiddled around with it and got it going. Do you think it could just be a bulb problem or something more serious.


Clearly your problem started with the generic bulb. Do you really mean a bulb or lamp? Lamp means the entire assembly, bulb means just that, a generic bulb installed in the original Epson lamp case.

I'm assuming you reset the lamp counter to zero when you installed the generic bulb?


----------



## Mr.G

hasba said:


> Hi!
> 
> I've read this topic quite long. My projector is about three years old. I've suffered from dust blobs some time and now i don't know what's up with it. When i turn focus all the way out the image has these little red and blue dots all around!
> 
> I've tried cleaning it many times. Today i pulled the main circuit board out and used a lot of air straight to the panels and still no help.
> When i took the lamp off it had a lot of "glitter" fallen from it. So i was wondering could that been sucked inside of the pj? Can't yet attach images so...
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Did you follow the guide in post #8913 above?

As mentioned it can sometimes take more than one attempt to blow dust blobs out completely.


----------



## DrewB

hasba said:


> Hi!
> 
> I've read this topic quite long. My projector is about three years old. I've suffered from dust blobs some time and now i don't know what's up with it. When i turn focus all the way out the image has these little red and blue dots all around!
> 
> I've tried cleaning it many times. Today i pulled the main circuit board out and used a lot of air straight to the panels and still no help.
> When i took the lamp off it had a lot of "glitter" fallen from it. So i was wondering could that been sucked inside of the pj? Can't yet attach images so...
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You may be better off counting your loss and moving on. This projector is pure CRAP. Mine lasted two months...yours lasted three years, consider yourself extremely lucky! If only I had listened to the folks reporting problems with this projector. I have had a Pansonic projector in my HT since 2002 and its still working...SMH!


----------



## Kilgore

DrewB said:


> You may be better off counting your loss and moving on. This projector is pure CRAP. Mine lasted two months...yours lasted three years, consider yourself extremely lucky! If only I had listened to the folks reporting problems with this projector. I have had a Pansonic projector in my HT since 2002 and its still working...SMH!


Funny. My 8350 still works perfectly fine. So do countless thousands of other people's. Didn't you take advantage of Epson's incredible customer service and get a replacement?


----------



## DrewB

Kilgore said:


> Funny. My 8350 still works perfectly fine. So do countless thousands of other people's. Didn't you take advantage of Epson's incredible customer service and get a replacement?


Good for you! Needing a replacement after 2 months of watching a dozen or so movies is absolutely ridiculous...I don't care how good their customer service is! Based on some of the adventures posted here we will see how many units it will take. It may be time to look into a class action. So much for enjoying the blurays I bought the kids for Xmas - but have fun with yours!


----------



## DrewB

Kilgore said:


> Funny. My 8350 still works perfectly fine. So do countless thousands of other people's. Didn't you take advantage of Epson's incredible customer service and get a replacement?


PS. I'm also bewildered as to why you would find my situation "funny"...cause nothing is remotely entertaining about having a new projector just quit on you without warning.


----------



## Kilgore

DrewB said:


> Good for you! Needing a replacement after 2 months of watching a dozen or so movies is absolutely ridiculous...I don't care how good their customer service is! Based on some of the adventures posted here we will see how many units it will take. It may be time to look into a class action. So much for enjoying the blurays I bought the kids for Xmas - but have fun with yours!


You could have a replacement by Tuesday if you wanted. Who knows...if you actually got in contact with Epson, they might send you a brand new PJ. They may actually upgrade you to a newer model. By the sounds of it though, you will never know because you seemed more determined to blow a gasket than you are to get a solution to your problem.


Also, to respond to your other comment, by funny, I obviously meant "strange" as in funny strange, and not funny ha-ha. Interesting that you should read it that way.


----------



## DrewB

Kilgore said:


> You could have a replacement by Tuesday if you wanted. Who knows...if you actually got in contact with Epson, they might send you a brand new PJ. They may actually upgrade you to a newer model. By the sounds of it though, you will never know because you seemed more determined to blow a gasket than you are to get a solution to your problem.
> 
> 
> Also, to respond to your other comment, by funny, I obviously meant "strange" as in funny strange, and not funny ha-ha. Interesting that you should read it that way.


Ok, thanks for the clarification. I will give them a call in the morning.


----------



## Mr.G

Mrshawn said:


> Correct, lamp. Problem started with original lamp that is why I ordered the generic lamp. Yes, I reset the counter when I put the new generic lamp in. From reading it seems like a strange way for the lamp to fail.


I think your best option at this point is to reinstall the original lamp and call Epson. Tell them about your problem (personally I would avoid mentioning the generic lamp) and ask them for a solution. They will likely send a replacement projector or lamp.


----------



## DrewB

So I called Epson as they asked me to power up the projector...so I unboxed it an tada...thing powered on! WTF! Yesterday the folks at Best Buy couldn't get it to turn on either.

Anyway, Epson logged the issue so at least they have a record of it in case something happens again. What a whirlwind weekend...now I have to reinstall it in my HT and hope for the best I guess.


----------



## hasba

Mr.G said:


> Did you follow the guide in post [] above?
> 
> As mentioned it can sometimes take more than one attempt to blow dust blobs out completely.


I've tried it multiple times without any luck. Green blobs don't annoy but it's the red ones and they are way too easy to see on white picture. Well i guess i'll go buy more compressed air and try once again 

I asked the cost for professional cleaning and it was 106€ which is about 125$ in a company that does the repairs and stuff.

Is there any other possible place for the dust to affect the picture?


----------



## mcsoul

I just purchased an 8350. Thinking of getting a playstation TV, probably won't get one, but just thinking about it made me wonder on 720p content.

Is the 1080p epson 8350 able to automatically "natively" display 720p content and project it out to the same image size as the 1080p source?
If not, do any projectors do it? I ask because I noticed some image size weirdness on initial setup with my Genie Mini cable box while cycling
through the resolutions.


----------



## Kilgore

mcsoul said:


> I just purchased an 8350. Thinking of getting a playstation TV, probably won't get one, but just thinking about it made me wonder on 720p content.
> 
> Is the 1080p epson 8350 able to automatically "natively" display 720p content and project it out to the same image size as the 1080p source?
> If not, do any projectors do it? I ask because I noticed some image size weirdness on initial setup with my Genie Mini cable box while cycling
> through the resolutions.


Have no fear. The 8350 will have no problems properly displaying 720p content. You may need to check to see what the Genie Mini's settings are as well though. It may require adjustment as well.


----------



## mcsoul

One more question. 

I purchased the 8350 with 1750 hours on the lamp. I want to order a new lamp and housing, 
taking this lamp and housing out and storing it as an emergency spare. As a projector Newb
I am inclined to go full OEM from Epson.com for $299, if there is a place that I can trust to
have real zero use on the OEM housing OEM part and manufacturer installed lamp, I would not
mind saving a few bucks.

I may even try a complete knockoff if it came highly recommended by a member here.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

As for a replacement lamp, I have not seen anyone post info about a cheaper alternative to the OEM bulb that lasted even half as long or didn't have other issues. Your best bet seems to go with an EPSON OEM bulb. That's what I would do, or will be doing, once I need a new bulb.


----------



## polychromeuganda

*LCD can be burned in, but it usually takes more...*



Andrew Hornfeck said:


> I'd second the position it'll fade... LCDs are not supposed to be subject to burn-in as were CRTs.


Actually, an LCD can be burned in if there is any charge imbalance in the panel drive. To avoid electroplating the crystals the pattern you see and its polar opposite are both driven. The one you see at a low voltage for a long time, and its opposite at a higher voltage for a short time. The permanence of any burned-in pattern depends on whether the accumulation caused any chemical changes (i.e. bonding to the surface). A permanent burn-in generally requires something wrong with the panel drivers.


----------



## bearir

Now that you can, do yourself a service by putting your projector in high altitude mode. The 8350 fans in normal mode shut down way too early. This may have been corrected in the latest software, but no reason to take a chance.


----------



## polychromeuganda

I just installed an Epson 8350 and I have a moire pattern in the center 2/3 of the screen. Its not as bad as an analog multipath signal used to be (if anyone remembers that herringbone pattern), but its an irritant. Its most pronounced when the background is light. The screen is a Draper, but its not the screen, the pattern is invariant to screen movement (flapping) and is unchanged on high grade white paper held in place. Is this typical of LCD projectors?

This is my 1st LCD projector. My first 3 projectors were CRT, an Advent, a Kloss, a Sony, followed by a Sharp DLP that I'm tired of feeding new lamps that cost more than its worth.


----------



## pinky33

I am thinking about buying this projector from another forum I am on. He is asking $750 and it has a Best Buy/geek squad rapid replacement and bulb replacement until 2017. The bulb it comes with has less then 200 hours. 

I currently use a EIKI LC-X985. For the past 3 years I have been waiting for this projector to die. But its 2600 lumans, 3LCD, and 1280x1024 resolution still look great when watching DVD's. 

I don't own any blue rays and I probably wont due to the cost. I will stream films/shows and play games. My main reason for wanting this projector is better color and contrast compared to my 13 year old EIKI. When I watch something on my 1080 LCD panel computer monitor it looks much better then my EIKI. I am assuming even this epson will not compare to a computer monitor.......correct me if I am wrong. 

Do you think this is a good price? 

-pinky


----------



## DrewB

pinky33 said:


> I am thinking about buying this projector from another forum I am on. He is asking $750 and it has a Best Buy/geek squad rapid replacement and bulb replacement until 2017. The bulb it comes with has less then 200 hours.
> 
> I currently use a EIKI LC-X985. For the past 3 years I have been waiting for this projector to die. But its 2600 lumans, 3LCD, and 1280x1024 resolution still look great when watching DVD's.
> 
> I don't own any blue rays and I probably wont due to the cost. I will stream films/shows and play games. My main reason for wanting this projector is better color and contrast compared to my 13 year old EIKI. When I watch something on my 1080 LCD panel computer monitor it looks much better then my EIKI. I am assuming even this epson will not compare to a computer monitor.......correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> Do you think this is a good price?
> 
> -pinky


No, that's not a good price at all for a projector that is now discontinued. You can get the 8345 brand new for $750 and many believe that the 8345 is an improvement on the 8350.


----------



## robertw11

DrewB said:


> the 8345 is an improvement on the 8350.


That's yet to be proven. 

To be safe people should start looking at the Epson 3000, and not the 8350 / 8345.


----------



## ben38

robertw11 said:


> That's yet to be proven.
> 
> To be safe people should start looking at the Epson 3000, and not the 8350 / 8345.


 Agreed. Except for the shorter throw and less lens shift, the hc3000 is an improvement over the 8350/45 in every other way. Brighter by far, better contrast, better motion handling, slightly better SDE, panel convergence controls, and maybe the best 3D on the market. A true no brainer. (Unless you really need more lens shift and throw)


----------



## whiskyman

new topic? my 8350 has been great for a month or so,
but ive seen a new problem, when using zoom to fill my 120" screen ive noticed that the image is narrower at the top than the bottom, changed inputs, no difference, use the pattern, focus is good, not sure where to look for a solution, have tried auto iris on and off, thanks in advance for ideas


----------



## DrewB

whiskyman said:


> new topic? my 8350 has been great for a month or so,
> but ive seen a new problem, when using zoom to fill my 120" screen ive noticed that the image is narrower at the top than the bottom, changed inputs, no difference, use the pattern, focus is good, not sure where to look for a solution, have tried auto iris on and off, thanks in advance for ideas


Have you played with the angle its tilted on...higher vs lower?


----------



## whiskyman

DrewB said:


> Have you played with the angle its tilted on...higher vs lower?


 the only on purpose change I've made is lower the position of my screen for a better front seat row viewing, i've tried adjusting shift left and right and up an down, I guess I should check the level and plum of screen again


----------



## polychromeuganda

*The cure for keystone is lens angle and shift*



whiskyman said:


> new topic? my 8350 has been great for a month or so,
> but ive seen a new problem, when using zoom to fill my 120" screen ive noticed that the image is narrower at the top than the bottom, changed inputs, no difference, use the pattern, focus is good, not sure where to look for a solution, have tried auto iris on and off, thanks in advance for ideas


Image narrow at the top indicates the lens is aimed down. adjust the angle of the projector body slightly upward and use the vertical lens shift to place the image at the desired vertical elevation. Iterate that sequence until the keystone is eliminated. As your later post implies its also possible the the screen isn't plumb, but its less likely because people have a good natural sense of vertical and the screen is usually where a wall provides an additional vertical reference.


----------



## whiskyman

polychromeuganda said:


> Image narrow at the top indicates the lens is aimed down. adjust the angle of the projector body slightly upward and use the vertical lens shift to place the image at the desired vertical elevation. Iterate that sequence until the keystone is eliminated. As your later post implies its also possible the the screen isn't plumb, but its less likely because people have a good natural sense of vertical and the screen is usually where a wall provides an additional vertical reference.



yep, that was it, project was un level, a lot better now,, avs members are great thanks


----------



## polychromeuganda

*Not everything about the HC3000 is an improvement*



ben38 said:


> Agreed. Except for the shorter throw and less lens shift, the hc3000 is an improvement over the 8350/45 in every other way. Brighter by far, better contrast, better motion handling, slightly better SDE, panel convergence controls, and maybe the best 3D on the market. A true no brainer. (Unless you really need more lens shift and throw)


There are at least 3 reasons why a buyer might prefer the HC8350 to the HC3000 - a summary might be that some buyers find the product features added to the HC3000 to support the now moribund 3D fad increased the product cost significantly while some other desirable features were degraded.

The HC3000 is around 30% more expensive than the HC8350 ($1,200 vs $900).

The HC3000 has at best a couple of additional frames of input delay (fast), at worst over 100mS (fine) which is enough to noticeably degrade lip-sync. The 8350 is noted by gamers for its short input delay (aka lag) (according to projectorcentral and also my daughter and son-in-law who use their 8350 for gaming).

The HC3000 has noticable fan noise at full lamp power. (according to projectorcentral, the Epson spec for the HC3000 is 35dB, vs 28dB for the HC8350, neither should be noticeable unless seated close or in front of the projector and are less likely to be noticed if ceiling mounted)

The lens shift limits of the HC3000 are 60% V and 24% H of the image size, vs 96% V and 47% H for the HC8350. (only important if the availability of mounting positions is limited)

The zoom lens of the HC3000 is shorter than the HC8350, the throw limits for a 100" diagonal screen are 9'10" to 16', vs 9'10" to 20'10". (only important in a larger room)

Conversely, it should be added that the HC3000 accepts an optional USB wireless network interface, but the HC8350 can't.

Also the HC3000 supports 3D (glasses not included $100/ea OEM, $50/ea generic) but the HC8350 does not.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I think Epson must have also spec'd out a different fan for the 8345 than is used in the 8350. The fan on this 8345 seems to be a bit louder than the one on my 8350 that I sold. Actually, I am on my second 8345, the first one also had the same fan noise which I had thought was a problematic fan so I asked Epson to exchange my 8345 for another new copy. At first the fan was pretty quiet but, just like on my first 8345, the fan has gotten a bit louder after 20-30 hours of usage. I'm now thinking that it was a waste of time to exchange the 8345 but now I know this is basically inherent to this model of projector.

Overall I'm still happy with the projector, however, I can see myself changing out this unit for something else in a few years as technology improves and the price for high quality unit continues to decrease.


----------



## KDKDKD

Hoping I'll be able to get some help with my current issue.
I've noticed that the brightness on my projector is shifting/changing on its own as of late. The brightness seems to decrease and be a touch dimmer then go back to being brighter a couple minutes or seconds later. It'll then be normal for a good duration then start up again for a bit. Not sure what is causing this. Is it a sign that the bulb is about to go or is starting to die? I'm close to 500 hours on my bulb, running it on eco mode.

Any insight would be appreciated.


----------



## ben38

HTPC_Dude said:


> I think Epson must have also spec'd out a different fan for the 8345 than is used in the 8350. The fan on this 8345 seems to be a bit louder than the one on my 8350 that I sold. Actually, I am on my second 8345, the first one also had the same fan noise which I had thought was a problematic fan so I asked Epson to exchange my 8345 for another new copy. At first the fan was pretty quiet but, just like on my first 8345, the fan has gotten a bit louder after 20-30 hours of usage. I'm now thinking that it was a waste of time to exchange the 8345 but now I know this is basically inherent to this model of projector.
> 
> Overall I'm still happy with the projector, however, I can see myself changing out this unit for something else in a few years as technology improves and the price for high quality unit continues to decrease.


 The Fan on the 8345 is definitely a little louder than the 8350. It's still quieter than the new hc3000 and 3500 by the way. I believe this is one of the tweaks from Epson's previous experience with the 8350 in order to prevent premature lamp burnouts.


----------



## ben38

KDKDKD said:


> Hoping I'll be able to get some help with my current issue.
> I've noticed that the brightness on my projector is shifting/changing on its own as of late. The brightness seems to decrease and be a touch dimmer then go back to being brighter a couple minutes or seconds later. It'll then be normal for a good duration then start up again for a bit. Not sure what is causing this. Is it a sign that the bulb is about to go or is starting to die? I'm close to 500 hours on my bulb, running it on eco mode.
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated.


After 500 hours it's normal for a lamp to get dimmer, but what you're experiencing is not normal. What you're describing does happen sometimes before lamps die, but 500 hours is way too early. If it does die, call Epson and demand a new lamp. 500 hours is premature to say the least.
However, it may be some sort of power fluctuation problem with the lamp running in ECO mode. Try NORMAL mode for awhile to see if the problem persists.


----------



## robertw11

polychromeuganda said:


> There are at least 3 reasons why a buyer might prefer the HC8350 to the HC3000 - a summary might be that some buyers find the product features added to the HC3000 to support the now moribund 3D fad increased the product cost significantly while some other desirable features were degraded.
> 
> The HC3000 is around 30% more expensive than the HC8350 ($1,200 vs $900).
> 
> The HC3000 has at best a couple of additional frames of input delay (fast), at worst over 100mS (fine) which is enough to noticeably degrade lip-sync. The 8350 is noted by gamers for its short input delay (aka lag) (according to projectorcentral and also my daughter and son-in-law who use their 8350 for gaming).
> 
> The HC3000 has noticable fan noise at full lamp power. (according to projectorcentral, the Epson spec for the HC3000 is 35dB, vs 28dB for the HC8350, neither should be noticeable unless seated close or in front of the projector and are less likely to be noticed if ceiling mounted)
> 
> The lens shift limits of the HC3000 are 60% V and 24% H of the image size, vs 96% V and 47% H for the HC8350. (only important if the availability of mounting positions is limited)
> 
> The zoom lens of the HC3000 is shorter than the HC8350, the throw limits for a 100" diagonal screen are 9'10" to 16', vs 9'10" to 20'10". (only important in a larger room)
> 
> Conversely, it should be added that the HC3000 accepts an optional USB wireless network interface, but the HC8350 can't.
> 
> Also the HC3000 supports 3D (glasses not included $100/ea OEM, $50/ea generic) but the HC8350 does not.


Excellent points. 

The biggest things for me are input lag, and lamp life. The 8350 covers the input lag department fantastically, and I believe the HC3000 on fast mode drops resolution, but if you don't game the 3000 is still probably the better choice. With the 8350 I'm most concerned about possibly having to buy new lamps every year even though it's on ECO mode. $300 a year for a bulb hurts. I can't find a single post of an 8350 hitting 2000hrs on a bulb. That is brutally depressing.

The extra $300 the HC3000 costs sure doesn't seem like much if it's bulb lasts anywhere near 3000-4000 hrs. The 8350 has a huge cost of ownership with it's addiction to eating bulbs.


----------



## invadergir

I just replaced my 8350 but still working and on its first bulb. Been running for about 3 1/2 years, EcoMode and was just nearing 2700 hours. Used almost 50/50 between movies and my gaming needs. Needed to run in normal mode every now and then when the bulb would show a slight dullness but would clear up afterwards (done maybe 2 or 3 times) Plus I think most of the early bulb issues have been pretty much cleared up by now


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> Excellent points.
> 
> The biggest things for me are input lag, and lamp life. The 8350 covers the input lag department fantastically, and I believe the HC3000 on fast mode drops resolution, but if you don't game the 3000 is still probably the better choice. With the 8350 I'm most concerned about possibly having to buy new lamps every year even though it's on ECO mode. $300 a year for a bulb hurts. I can't find a single post of an 8350 hitting 2000hrs on a bulb. That is brutally depressing.
> 
> The extra $300 the HC3000 costs sure doesn't seem like much if it's bulb lasts anywhere near 3000-4000 hrs. The 8350 has a huge cost of ownership with it's addiction to eating bulbs.


I have an 8350 with 2450 hours on the bulb. Yes, it has dimmed considerably, but is still watchable. A new lamp is in order, but I have since bought a 5030UB.


----------



## robertw11

invadergir said:


> I just replaced my 8350 but still working and on its first bulb. Been running for about 3 1/2 years, EcoMode and was just nearing 2700 hours. Used almost 50/50 between movies and my gaming needs. Needed to run in normal mode every now and then when the bulb would show a slight dullness but would clear up afterwards (done maybe 2 or 3 times) Plus I think most of the early bulb issues have been pretty much cleared up by now


You give me hope.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

My 8350 had 1200 hrs on the bulb when I sold it, lamp was working fine. Possibly some loss of brightness but it wasn't noticeable. I ran in ECO mode most of the time. I did have some flicking at times as mentioned by KDKDKD, but all I would need to do is change over to Normal mode and run it at the higher brightness (louder fan noise) for an hour or so and the flickering would go away.

I purchased the 8345 in hopes that these minor annoyances I saw on my 8350 would have been resolved. So far no issues but then again I've not had the time to use the new projector much. Except for a few more dB of fan noise, the 8345 is performing just as well as the 8350 did.


----------



## DrewB

Kilgore said:


> I have an 8350 with 2450 hours on the bulb. Yes, it has dimmed considerably, but is still watchable. A new lamp is in order, but I have since bought a 5030UB.


Are you running in ECO mode? What about this altitude setting I saw someone recommending...is it worth it?


----------



## Kilgore

DrewB said:


> Are you running in ECO mode? What about this altitude setting I saw someone recommending...is it worth it?


I originally ran it in ECO mode, up until around 1800 hours or so, and then I switched to Normal. As it stands right now, I think I actually have it in Dynamic.


If you don't mind the fan sound (I don't), you can put the PJ into High Altitude Mode which basically turns the fan speed up, even when in ECO mode. The idea is that there is less oxygen at high altitudes, so in order to get more air moving around inside the PJ, you turn on this mode. I have this turned on since the extra cooling isn't a bad idea, even though I'm not at a high altitude. It may have contributed to the long life I get out of these lamps.


----------



## lawnarjax

For anyone that has moved from the 8350 to the 5030ub, can you point out any advantages or drawbacks you have experienced? I love the 8350 but decided that the price and timing was right. By the time I am ready to upgrade again(4-5 years) , 4K LED/Laser might be priced within reason. Anyhow, am I going to see a big step up or just incremental? I am not a huge snob for "calibrated" PQ, I am rather a bright and bold contrast be damned kind of guy. I appreciate the technical ability of these units compared to even just a few years ago. Any thoughts on the major points of separation between these units? 

I just ordered the 5030ub and listed my cherished 8350 on CL. Picked up a new screen too, thought it was time to get away from my old battle tested glass beaded Dalite Model B I have had for 15 years and moved to a fixed screen @ 120". Picked up about 12" diagonally. Wife is going to think I lost my mind.


----------



## Kilgore

lawnarjax said:


> For anyone that has moved from the 8350 to the 5030ub, can you point out any advantages or drawbacks you have experienced? I love the 8350 but decided that the price and timing was right. By the time I am ready to upgrade again(4-5 years) , 4K LED/Laser might be priced within reason. Anyhow, am I going to see a big step up or just incremental? I am not a huge snob for "calibrated" PQ, I am rather a bright and bold contrast be damned kind of guy. I appreciate the technical ability of these units compared to even just a few years ago. Any thoughts on the major points of separation between these units?
> 
> I just ordered the 5030ub and listed my cherished 8350 on CL. Picked up a new screen too, thought it was time to get away from my old battle tested glass beaded Dalite Model B I have had for 15 years and moved to a fixed screen @ 120". Picked up about 12" diagonally. Wife is going to think I lost my mind.


In short, you will see a big step up. The 5030UB is brighter, sharper, and much more like a giant Plasma/LCD. The deeper blacks of the 5030UB just give everything that much more pop. Plus, the 5030UB's 3D capability is exceptional.


----------



## lawnarjax

Great, that will sell it for the wife, although it's been a few years since we went to the 8350 from the Panny @ 720P, she did see the difference then. Thanks for the info. I have not seen 3D on any PJ, so it will be a completely new experience for us both. Going to hunt around the pawn shops for some 3D titles to demo, she hates the 3D of old, but I am hoping to impress her.


----------



## Kilgore

lawnarjax said:


> Great, that will sell it for the wife, although it's been a few years since we went to the 8350 from the Panny @ 720P, she did see the difference then. Thanks for the info. I have not seen 3D on any PJ, so it will be a completely new experience for us both. Going to hunt around the pawn shops for some 3D titles to demo, she hates the 3D of old, but I am hoping to impress her.


I highly recommend Guardians of the Galaxy. It's the only way to see this movie. Honestly, if she's not impressed by that (or you for that matter) I'd recommend a visit to the optometrist.  If it doesn't blow you away, come back and give me a beat down.


----------



## invadergir

Better throw in both How to Train Your Dragon movies as well. Look amazing in 2D and even better in 3D. Just jumped to 3D projection a few days ago and am loving it. Almost seems to look better than the theatres. Can't wait to test out Life of Pi (amazing 3D in theater) Pacific Rim and Gravity.


----------



## Kilgore

invadergir said:


> Better throw in both How to Train Your Dragon movies as well. Look amazing in 2D and even better in 3D. Just jumped to 3D projection a few days ago and am loving it. Almost seems to look better than the theatres. Can't wait to test out Life of Pi (amazing 3D in theater) Pacific Rim and Gravity.


Yes, all four of these look great in 3D. Pacific Rim is all the more amazing when you consider that it was a post-conversion.


----------



## voodoogmr

A few months ago, I got a cheap Digital Galaxy 720p PJ. It was my first PJ, so I had nothing to compare it to, but I immediately thought it looked horrible. Almost no shadow detail and blown highlights. Granted, I wasn't expecting much. I just wanted something cheap for outdoor movie nights. Plus, it was nearly free thanks to a lot of Amazon gift cards I've accumulated. However, it started the addiction.

Yesterday, I picked up the 8350. Wow, what a difference it made. It's super-quiet (the DG sounded like a small jet taking off), so this made my wife very happy. Also, the lens shift made this incredibly easy to set up in our den, which has only one spot a PJ can go. Placement flexibility was my prime concern, and the 8350 is ideal. I was planning on getting the 2030, but it simply would not work in our den. 

Can't believe how bright this thing is. It truly does look close to my Samsung 60" LED. I dropped it down into Cinema / ECO mode and it's still almost too bright. Watched Prometheus on the 106" screen in 9.2 surround. Oh yeah, I'm hooked.

Great. Now I'll be finding ways to build a dedicated room. And get a bigger house. Once you go big, there's no going back.


----------



## baradir385

*Compatibility issue with Samsung Home Theater System?*

I connected a Samsung HT-4500 home theater system (model code HT-H4500 /ZA) to an EPSON Powerlite 8350 projector (model H373A) via an HDMI cable. The projector is giving me a "No HDMI Signal" error. I have tried both HDMI inputs on the projector. 

To make sure sure that the cables are fine and the Samsung unit and projector individually are all working properly I did the following:

connected the Samsung HT unit via the same HDMI cable to a Samsung TV (model code LT28D310NH/ZA). Video output was fine.

connected another Samsung DVD player (model code BD-E5400/ZA) to the projector via the same HDMI cable. Video output was also fine.

Is anyone aware of a compatibility issue between this particular Samsung HT-4500 unit and EPSON projectors? This would be strange because when I connect a Samsung DVD player to the projector there is no problem.


----------



## moosejr75

I've been considering purchasing one of the these projectors. From the reviews they seem to be the best bang for the buck.


----------



## Mr.G

baradir385 said:


> I connected a Samsung HT-4500 home theater system (model code HT-H4500 /ZA) to an EPSON Powerlite 8350 projector (model H373A) via an HDMI cable. The projector is giving me a "No HDMI Signal" error. I have tried both HDMI inputs on the projector.
> 
> To make sure sure that the cables are fine and the Samsung unit and projector individually are all working properly I did the following:
> 
> connected the Samsung HT unit via the same HDMI cable to a Samsung TV (model code LT28D310NH/ZA). Video output was fine.
> 
> connected another Samsung DVD player (model code BD-E5400/ZA) to the projector via the same HDMI cable. Video output was also fine.
> 
> Is anyone aware of a compatibility issue between this particular Samsung HT-4500 unit and EPSON projectors? This would be strange because when I connect a Samsung DVD player to the projector there is no problem.


Check your settings. Make sure the Samsung HT-F4500 is not outputting a 3D signal via HDMI. The 8350 is not 3D capable.


----------



## DrewB

My 8350 with


----------



## robertw11

So what's the maintenance procedure for the filter on this unit, replace or clean? And what intervals are people performing the maintenance at?


Also what are some settings that work best with a PC hooked up to the projector, like noise reduction set to off etc etc?


----------



## adb3da

Do the famous Epson dust blobs look like this (see my attached image)? Or could this be a different issue?


----------



## Mr.G

adb3da said:


> Do the famous Epson dust blobs look like this (see my attached image)? Or could this be a different issue?


Need a better photo, especially a closeup. Try de-focusing the lens and focusing again. Does the area change appearance?


----------



## adb3da

Mr.G said:


> Need a better photo, especially a closeup. Try de-focusing the lens and focusing again. Does the area change appearance?


Thanks for the reply! I don't have any other photos right now. The photo came from a guy that is selling it. I might be able to get it cheap enough to take the risk but I am trying to make that decision. Is there a half way decent chance that this is something that can't be easily fixed? If that's the case, I may end up walking away from the PJ.


----------



## Mr.G

adb3da said:


> Thanks for the reply! I don't have any other photos right now. The photo came from a guy that is selling it. I might be able to get it cheap enough to take the risk but I am trying to make that decision. Is there a half way decent chance that this is something that can't be easily fixed? If that's the case, I may end up walking away from the PJ.


Without better photos, especially with focusing and defocusing on the supposed dust blob, I'd walk away from this bargain.


----------



## robertw11

So I'm getting flickering via my HTPC to the projector. Ruled everything out, and it's clearly the projector, but only on Youtube's page.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rn1fErV1LyU&feature=youtu.be

Determined it's something with the framerate and the projector. At 30hz scrolling Youtube is fine, at 60hz the projector flickers. Playing games at 60hz, no issues though. I'm stumped.


----------



## DrewB

Epson is sending a brand new 8350...fingers crossed that this one will actually work.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

DrewB said:


> Epson is sending a brand new 8350...fingers crossed that this one will actually work.


Good to hear Drew. Let us know if you have any problems with the replacement.


----------



## coug86wsu

Greetings fellow Epson 8350 owners. I guess I have been one of the lucky owners of the 8350 for almost 5 years......until this past month. I have been putting up with the dreaded green blobs for a while now, but they only really appear when the screen is throwing a completely black or dark screen. Pain in my a$$, but acceptable. ( I attempted after doing a a deep dive on this site and others to perform a cleaning of the LCD's, but to no avail)

Over the last few weeks I have noticed a slight lightening of the picture. Thought it was something with my screen, but after thoroughly cleaning the screen and the lense, there was no difference. (My current bulb is an OEM with approximately 1000 hours on it). 

This past weekend all of a sudden I had jailer/vertical bands appear on the picture. They are really pronounced when you have a lighter picture on the screen. I spent many painful hours going through my setup (which by the way has not changed at all) and have not made them budge.

Any ideas? Is this unit at the end of it's lifecycle? 

I have attached a quick pic from my phone.


----------



## chunkman50

*8350 clicking and grinding on startup; two red lights*

This seems to be a common problem and I've seen a lot of bogus info on the net so I thought I would explain the problem and my solution. During the 8350 self test on startup, a servo motor shuttles an optical element (auto iris???? - it doesn't look like an iris) back and forth to limit switches. If the limit switches don't respond the self test gives up and flashes the red lights. The servo motor contains several nylon gears and these wear out and strip ... this causes the clicking and grinding and eventually the shuttle no longer moves. My problem occurred 3 months after the warranty expired and I then found out that the "authorized service center" near me had no idea what to do and wanted to replaced $900 of stuff that didn't need replacing. I then found out that Epson customer service will not sell parts directly to you; only to their authorized service centers. Kind of a Catch-22. So I found a servo motor from Pololu (metal gears - yes!) and replaced it myself. It is not an easy job. I recommend that you take photos as you disassemble so that you can reassemble correctly. You must 1) remove lamp, 2) remove side panels and top of case, 3) remove 3 optical filters from top of motherboard, 4) remove motherboard (for the 3 LCD ribbon cables, first slide back the black keeper and then slide out the ribbon cable from the connector), 5) remove the lens assembly, and 6) remove the optical deck. The servo motor is attached to the bottom side of the optical deck. My new motor did not have a shaft or mounting holes that directly matched the original so I had to drill new holes and make a shaft adapter. Transfer the old motor cable and connector to the new motor (make sure that the shaft turns in the same direction as the old one or you will need to swap + and - connections on the motor!). Then reassemble everything. If you get an odd color when you start up you probably did not get one of the LCD ribbon cables seated properly so redo the cable on the missing color. Good luck!


----------



## eyekode

Awesome post. Thanks!


----------



## DrewB

New unit came and now its installed...picture looks awesome.


----------



## Kilgore

DrewB said:


> New unit came and now its installed...picture looks awesome.


I don't care what anyone says....Epson has the best customer service of any company in the A/V industry. Period.


----------



## socal swagger

Is there an update for the 8350?

My denon x1100 is not picking up hdmi signal from projector or vice versa

When I plug pj directly into blu ray it's pick up picture 

Hdmi cable works trouble shot it with another tv

Pj works with my other denon x4000 but not with this one


----------



## robertw11

Kilgore said:


> I don't care what anyone says....Epson has the best customer service of any company in the A/V industry. Period.


It's too bad the projectors themselves are not kept to the same standards the customer service is.


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> It's too bad the projectors themselves are not kept to the same standards the customer service is.


I was going to add your comment to the end of my message before you typed it since I knew it was coming. 


DrewB seems happy. Thousands of others are happy. I'm sorry you're not, but you are in the minority.


----------



## robertw11

Kilgore said:


> I was going to add your comment to the end of my message before you typed it since I knew it was coming.
> 
> 
> DrewB seems happy. Thousands of others are happy. I'm sorry you're not, but you are in the minority.


Eh, don't be so sure about that. There's an awful lot of issues with this model, and this thread just keeps growing with complaints and real problems. And let's not even get into the bulb life with the 8350, not even half what Epson advertises. That's pure deception.


----------



## Itsdon

I guess I am part of the silent majority of happy folks then. Over 3 years and 1,500 hours and my 8350 still spits out a perfect picture and has not given me one issue.


----------



## chunkman50

chunkman50 said:


> This seems to be a common problem and I've seen a lot of bogus info on the net so I thought I would explain the problem and my solution. During the 8350 self test on startup, a servo motor shuttles an optical element (auto iris???? - it doesn't look like an iris) back and forth to limit switches. If the limit switches don't respond the self test gives up and flashes the red lights. The servo motor contains several nylon gears and these wear out and strip ... this causes the clicking and grinding and eventually the shuttle no longer moves. My problem occurred 3 months after the warranty expired and I then found out that the "authorized service center" near me had no idea what to do and wanted to replaced $900 of stuff that didn't need replacing. I then found out that Epson customer service will not sell parts directly to you; only to their authorized service centers. Kind of a Catch-22. So I found a servo motor from Pololu (metal gears - yes!) and replaced it myself. It is not an easy job. I recommend that you take photos as you disassemble so that you can reassemble correctly. You must 1) remove lamp, 2) remove side panels and top of case, 3) remove 3 optical filters from top of motherboard, 4) remove motherboard (for the 3 LCD ribbon cables, first slide back the black keeper and then slide out the ribbon cable from the connector), 5) remove the lens assembly, and 6) remove the optical deck. The servo motor is attached to the bottom side of the optical deck. My new motor did not have a shaft or mounting holes that directly matched the original so I had to drill new holes and make a shaft adapter. Transfer the old motor cable and connector to the new motor (make sure that the shaft turns in the same direction as the old one or you will need to swap + and - connections on the motor!). Then reassemble everything. If you get an odd color when you start up you probably did not get one of the LCD ribbon cables seated properly so redo the cable on the missing color. Good luck!


After digging into the Epson patent archive, I understand now that this problem is caused by the Cinema filter that moves in and out and not by the Auto Iris.


----------



## coug86wsu

coug86wsu said:


> Greetings fellow Epson 8350 owners. I guess I have been one of the lucky owners of the 8350 for almost 5 years......until this past month. I have been putting up with the dreaded green blobs for a while now, but they only really appear when the screen is throwing a completely black or dark screen. Pain in my a$$, but acceptable. ( I attempted after doing a a deep dive on this site and others to perform a cleaning of the LCD's, but to no avail)
> 
> Over the last few weeks I have noticed a slight lightening of the picture. Thought it was something with my screen, but after thoroughly cleaning the screen and the lense, there was no difference. (My current bulb is an OEM with approximately 1000 hours on it).
> 
> This past weekend all of a sudden I had jailer/vertical bands appear on the picture. They are really pronounced when you have a lighter picture on the screen. I spent many painful hours going through my setup (which by the way has not changed at all) and have not made them budge.
> 
> Any ideas? Is this unit at the end of it's lifecycle?
> 
> I have attached a quick pic from my phone.


Anybody?


----------



## robertw11

*Red and green haze / tint*

So my brand new replacement (not refurb) has around 300hrs on it. On an all white screen, or light grey for example the AVSforum site, I can notice a red haze on the left half of the screen. But also the right half of the screen looks to have a slight green tint.


Are the dichroic mirrors dusty?


----------



## robertw11

Nothing huh, anyone?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

robertw11 said:


> So my brand new replacement (not refurb) has around 300hrs on it. On an all white screen, or light grey for example the AVSforum site, I can notice a red haze on the left half of the screen. But also the right half of the screen looks to have a slight green tint.
> 
> 
> Are the dichroic mirrors dusty?


Sounds like another call to EPSON for a second replacement.


----------



## KDKDKD

ben38 said:


> After 500 hours it's normal for a lamp to get dimmer, but what you're experiencing is not normal. What you're describing does happen sometimes before lamps die, but 500 hours is way too early. If it does die, call Epson and demand a new lamp. 500 hours is premature to say the least.
> However, it may be some sort of power fluctuation problem with the lamp running in ECO mode. Try NORMAL mode for awhile to see if the problem persists.


I ran it in NORMAL mode for awhile and then switched back to ECO after a couple hours. The issue seems to have gone away for now.

Is this a persistent problem with the 8350? Should I expect the lamp to have similar issues again if I continue to run it in ECO mode after a while?


----------



## Kilgore

robertw11 said:


> So my brand new replacement (not refurb) has around 300hrs on it. On an all white screen, or light grey for example the AVSforum site, I can notice a red haze on the left half of the screen. But also the right half of the screen looks to have a slight green tint.
> 
> 
> Are the dichroic mirrors dusty?



More likely on the polarizing filters that surround the LCD panels.


----------



## Kilgore

KDKDKD said:


> I ran it in NORMAL mode for awhile and then switched back to ECO after a couple hours. The issue seems to have gone away for now.
> 
> Is this a persistent problem with the 8350? Should I expect the lamp to have similar issues again if I continue to run it in ECO mode after a while?


The problem should be solved now. In any case, if it happens again (which shouldn't be often, if it does at all), you know what to do.


----------



## robertw11

HTPC_Dude said:


> Sounds like another call to EPSON for a second replacement.


 
Yeah I called, they're sending me a refurb to replace the "new replacement". This is getting out of hand, I wish I could get my money back. Once the warranty is out, LCOS Sony for me.



Kilgore said:


> More likely on the polarizing filters that surround the LCD panels.


Is there a better filter I can buy, or some type of filtration media I can put on the filter to prevent these issues from happening again? What else can I do to prevent or minimize these dust issues?


The room is not very dusty, I also have a HEPA air purifier running in the room.


----------



## coaldigger

Since I am home sick today, I was reading he forum seeing what has been happening in the world of projectors. Most posts are about problems hoping for solutions and I realize that if you are not bored to tears most people are not going to log in and report no problems so to do so and provide some perspective might be helpful. 


Over 3 years ago I upgraded to the Epson 8650 on a Black Friday Deal from Visual Apex. I had previously owned a Sanyo PLV-Z1 so you can see that I have been thrifty in my theater development. I have, however, gotten a lot of enjoyment watching mostly sporting events, PPV and Netflix. We watch some DVD's but I don't feel the need to own a big collection. 3D was popular when I was a kid and I saw some "classic" movies when they were new. I can't remember their names but one was a jungle movie and one was House of Wax. The glasses gave me a headache and I don't feel the need for going that route in my theater.


My 8350 has been pretty much trouble free. This summer I suspected that it was dimming a bit so I ordered a new OEM lamp. It was good that I did because when the new lamp came I tried to turn on the projector to get a reference on the brightness difference and it was dead. I took the projector down, opened it up, removed the old lamp, used some compressed air for general cleaning (although I have never seen dust blobs) and installed the new lamp. When I went to reset the counter I saw that I had 2999 hours on the old bulb. My heaviest usage is football season, college and pro, but I like college basketball too. To me, my projector seems to be the same as the first day I got it out of the box.


Early in my career, I was a design engineer and worked on custom electronic control systems for industrial processes. Each design was a one-of and I had to oversee the installation and startup so I know how problems occur and am conditioned to accept them without panic and work on corrections. I left that field over 40 years ago and never looked back. My theater is to entertain me with content not with the components so I am not real critical but I want a clear picture equal to or better than the flat panel LED upstairs and bright enough to have some light on at the bar and popcorn machine. I want the audio all around and pretty loud (working in factories was not good for my ears) and I am happy. 


As many have said there are many happy Epson owners out there. It is always possible to get a lemon and if you do, they will take care of you. Who knows how much banging goes on from handling in the delivery process? The first 100 hours is when most electronic products fail and after that without some detrimental event they are usually trouble free. Most new products are machine checked for quality control but refurbished units are ones that have failed, been repaired and checked by a human technician. Some of you guys need to relax and enjoy the movie or sporting event and not let the minutia distract you.


----------



## robertw11

This will be my 4th replacement. I'm glad you've had an excellent experience, mine has been the complete opposite with this projector.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

coaldigger said:


> My 8350 has been pretty much trouble free. This summer I suspected that it was dimming a bit so I ordered a new OEM lamp. It was good that I did because when the new lamp came I tried to turn on the projector to get a reference on the brightness difference and it was dead. I took the projector down, opened it up, removed the old lamp, used some compressed air for general cleaning (although I have never seen dust blobs) and installed the new lamp. When I went to reset the counter I saw that I had 2999 hours on the old bulb. My heaviest usage is football season, college and pro, but I like college basketball too. To me, my projector seems to be the same as the first day I got it out of the box.


Hi Coaldigger, thanks for posting up your good experience with the 8350. I am curious if you run ECO mode at all on your projector? What viewing mode do you run (Cinema, Dynamic, etc) 2999 hours doesn't sound terrible for lamp life if you run in normal mode with above average brightness.

My experience has been generally positive. I did get the AutoIris error a few times on the 8350, I changed out to the 8345 and have not had any issues other than a bit more fan noise than my old 8350.


----------



## coaldigger

I have it set on Econo mode and on Dynamic. I just read today that High Altitude would run the fan a little longer on shutdown so I made that change this afternoon. I always felt that the fan should run a little longer but the big case for this unit doesn't seem Our basement is pretty cool even though I close the AC vents in the summer and sometimes don't open them all year. I put in two rows of reclining seats this year and build a riser that is 13" and the back row is under the ceiling mounted unit and I do not hear the fan until the sound is off and I am focusing on it to shut the power off from a switch on my wiring bridge. I try to remember to keep the filter clean and carefully remove it to vacuum a couple times a month otherwise I don't disturb the projector. I figure power surges, heat and vibration are the enemy and I try to avoid them as much as possible.


----------



## Jim nt

I just installed my new 8345, and I'm a little confused about the main power swith. Do I leave it on all the time and use the regular on and off. Or do I shut the main power off when not in use.


----------



## coaldigger

Jim nt said:


> I just installed my new 8345, and I'm a little confused about the main power swith. Do I leave it on all the time and use the regular on and off. Or do I shut the main power off when not in use.


My unit is ceiling mounted so I installed a switch in the line going to a receptacle near the projector so I leave the switch on the projector ON but cut the power when the fan stops on shutdown.


----------



## Jim nt

So once the fan stops the main power should be turned off.


----------



## jayn_j

Jim nt said:


> So once the fan stops the main power should be turned off.


That is kind of your option. If the main switch is on, the unit will continue to draw a very small amount of current to feed the circuits controlling the remote sensor. Turning off that switch will disable those circuits. Saves a bit of power at the cost of some convenience.

What you don't want to do is remove power wile the lamp is on or the fans are still running as that will shorten bulb life.


----------



## jayn_j

HTPC_Dude said:


> Hi Coaldigger, thanks for posting up your good experience with the 8350. I am curious if you run ECO mode at all on your projector? What viewing mode do you run (Cinema, Dynamic, etc) 2999 hours doesn't sound terrible for lamp life if you run in normal mode with above average brightness.
> 
> My experience has been generally positive. I did get the AutoIris error a few times on the 8350, I changed out to the 8345 and have not had any issues other than a bit more fan noise than my old 8350.


I don't actually have an 8350. I have the very similar previous model, the 8100. My bulb blew at 4225 hours. I replaced it with genuine Epson after reading the horror stories about cheap clones. In my mind it was worth paying the $230 it cost from an authorized online dealer. It now has another 2000 hours and is going strong.

I run in ECO mode for most of the life, but switched to normal when it started darkening. I run a custom profile based on cinema that I periodically set using a calibration disc. I also run high altitude mode. My theater is a totally light controlled cave with dark indigo walls, but the projector, mounted 19' back on the wall is plenty bright. I do clean the filter every 3 months but have not replaced it. I really should.


----------



## Jim nt

jayn_j said:


> That is kind of your option. If the main switch is on, the unit will continue to draw a very small amount of current to feed the circuits controlling the remote sensor. Turning off that switch will disable those circuits. Saves a bit of power at the cost of some convenience.
> 
> What you don't want to do is remove power wile the lamp is on or the fans are still running as that will shorten bulb life.


Makes sense. Thank you.


----------



## robertw11

Got the replacement setup, appears to better. White images are white, uniformity looks about the same. Only thing that I might not be perfect is the sharpness, this replacement doesn't look as sharp (small text) than the one it replaced, but I'll have to do some more testing.


----------



## panzer55

*Epson 8350 purchase - WOW!*

I recently upgraded my Mitsubishi DLP projector which I have been very happy with over past few years with the Epson 8350 projector. I must say WOW - I cannot believe the overall picture quality. I thought my last projector had a nice picture. It is amazing how many things that are now clear and visible in many dark scenes that were not visible before. The vivid colors are amazing, skin tones excellent, and w/ additional lumens I can actually have some lighting in room which the wife likes. I have not made any adjustments with any of the calibration settings as of yet and am not that familiar with them nor do I want to degrade current picture. 
This is my second projector and I am an entry level do-it-yourself individual. There is alot of info out there, but are there any quick basics that I should look. A few observations(surprises) that I did have after receiving and setting up the projector is that it is physically huge compared to my old Mit's. I also feel that the cooling fan is really loud compared to what I am used to. The picture quality though easily covers for these negative aspects. Appreciate everyone's comments as I spent alot of time reviewing comparisons prior to purchase.


----------



## robertw11

You bought the wrong projector bud. The 8345 is the projector you should have bought if you needed the 8350's range and lens shift. And I hope you have a dust free room, these things love to pick up any bit of dust so be on the look out for green dust blobs, you'll probably see a few pop up at around 250-300hrs. Enjoy!


----------



## eyekode

I don't have a dust free room and have had no dust problems and it has been1.5 years or so. Just another data point.
(Knocking on wood).
Salem


----------



## Itsdon

eyekode said:


> I don't have a dust free room and have had no dust problems and it has been1.5 years or so. Just another data point.
> (Knocking on wood).
> Salem


Same here. My projector is 3 years old, I hardly ever dust, have 1,500 hours on the lamp and it is flawless and blob free. Just sayin....


----------



## ben38

2400+ hours and no dust problems so far.


----------



## bwilberg266

*New to the family*

Just received my (new to me) Epson 8350 that I bought from nano_machine here on the classifieds. Can't wait to get it fired up to test it out tonight! It will be a couple weeks till I really get to dig in as we are closing on a house on Friday and the setup will be in the basement there, but super excited to finally have a projector!


----------



## detroit1

I am ready to buy another bulb

please let me know the best low priced $50 bulb to buy for the 8350

I know some on this forum have used these lower prices bulbs


----------



## Kilgore

ben38 said:


> 2400+ hours and no dust problems so far.


Mine has 2600+ hours and no dust as well. I have since moved on to the 5030 (still have the 8350), and it also has no dust after 800 hours.


I should also add that both have been shelf mounted and often, my cat sleeps on it.


----------



## F12Bwth

Kilgore said:


> Mine has 2600+ hours and no dust as well. I have since moved on to the 5030 (still have the 8350), and it also has no dust after 800 hours.
> 
> 
> I should also add that both have been shelf mounted and often, my cat sleeps on it.


The cat is soaking up all the dust. Good idea.


----------



## swhitefl

I've had an 8350 for quite a few years(July 2011) and suspect that one of my fans has gone out. I am getting a periodic overheating message and the filter on the back is clean. I just don't know what fan has gone bad. I do know that the high altitude option when turned on does nothing. So if that controls just one of the fans can anyone tell me which of the 5 it is inside?

It seems like the front exhaust vent is putting out the normal amount of air but the rear intake vent is very light and feels like barely any air is getting sucked in.

If anyone can help me that would be great.


----------



## gingus

I'm starting to get oval halos in the upper right and left. I had this problem on my previous PJ. Any suggestions?


----------



## joeags

joeags said:


> I also purchased the genie lamps replacement, albeit at $62 back in November. I had 1136 hours on my projector over 2.5 years. I also see the lamp as being comparable in brightness to the original, but can't be certain. No beeps or any other sounds from the projector. Best I can say is I am pleased with it, would recommend it at this point, and hope for it to last a decent length of time past the 150 day warranty.


Ok, final post on this lamp (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TAGX0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Purchased and installed in November, 2013. I haven't had any issues with the bulb. Install was fine, everything worked right from the start. I noticed decreases in brightness at about the 1400 hour mark, where I moved up to Living Room mode. 2000 hour mark, I had to move up to Dynamic mode. 2100 hours, bulb is dead - I saw the flashing red light for the bulb on the projector, and replaced it at that time. Putting a new bulb in, and it just blows my mind how much the bulb had dimmed. 

Still, for $62, I feel I received my money's worth. I had close to 1.5 years of usage out of the bulb. Color and brightness were fine. I had a quick trip to the US in December and would have purchased a second of the same bulb, but they had none with prime 2 day shipping, so purchased a glamps version instead (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQUWZ56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I'm perfectly happy with this bulb for the first 10 hours, and will see how it performs. Purchase price on this one was a whopping $38 at the time (December, 2014).


----------



## gingus

Also, where is the filter on this. I can't seem to find it.


----------



## bigblue0509

Mikey_Dawg said:


> Sources are PS3 are Xbox 1 (DirecTV is run through XBOX1) and are all HDMI.
> 
> Neither of them have component natively so would have to buy aftermarket converters which I hear are unreliable.
> 
> Just gonna look at EPSONs new 3000 line and might pull the trigger on one of them. Just ridiculous the HDMI board cant be repaired for a reasonable price...


I saw in one of the threads you mentioned that you were looking into getting a 3000/3500. If so did you try gaming on it yet and does the fast mode look that bad.

Thinking about getting that or a 8350


----------



## bigblue0509

Looking into getting a projector I game a lot but will use it for sports and movies as well. Looking at the 8350 and the 3000 and recommendations. I do hear that the fast mode on the 3000 makes the picture look awful when gaming. Throw distance will be 16' to a 100" screen.


----------



## detroit1

I got a new bulb and tried to put it in and got nothing; this happened twice and then put my original bulb in and was able to watch the projector

anyone else have this experience when putting in a new bulb? the bulbs only go in one way; nothing complex about installing it


----------



## Mrtie

Just chiming in as a data point, 8350 user almost 4 years, still on my first bulb, no issues with my unit so far, about 1500 hours on the bulb. I think I'm going to buy some of the cheap generics as back ups and I'm sure my bulb isn't going to make it all that much longer.


----------



## gingus

gingus said:


> I'm starting to get oval halos in the upper right and left. I had this problem on my previous PJ. Any suggestions?


Called Epson and they are sending out a new projector it's under warranty. . So let's see how the new one works.


----------



## wildswing

*Blinking red temp light, but Epson replaced it lighting fast.*

Hey fellas,

After a doing a ton of research, ending in analysis paralysis, I bought a refurb 8350 from Epson Canada just after Christmas. I was very impressed with the picture quality right out of the box. Ffwd about a month and a half and I started getting the blinking red temp light on start up. The projector was set up in my basement which runs a little on the cold side because I don't run the supplemental electric 24/7. I thought this might be from being too cold because second start would always work.

I finally called Epson tech and they said it was not because of the cold and that it would continue to get worse and would have to be replaced. This was on a Friday. He said he may not get it on a truck until Monday, so I should call back Monday afternoon to confirm and get my tracking number. I did just that. As he read the tracking number to me, I typed it in to the couriers tracking web page. The latest activity read, "Delivery attempted." It was accepted somewhere in the US on Friday, in Toronto on Saturday, my home town Sunday and out for delivery Monday morning.

Wow! That's service. Old unit shipped back on Epson's dime. New unit installed and running fine.


----------



## gingus

wildswing said:


> Hey fellas,
> 
> After a doing a ton of research, ending in analysis paralysis, I bought a refurb 8350 from Epson Canada just after Christmas. I was very impressed with the picture quality right out of the box. Ffwd about a month and a half and I started getting the blinking red temp light on start up. The projector was set up in my basement which runs a little on the cold side because I don't run the supplemental electric 24/7. I thought this might be from being too cold because second start would always work.
> 
> I finally called Epson tech and they said it was not because of the cold and that it would continue to get worse and would have to be replaced. This was on a Friday. He said he may not get it on a truck until Monday, so I should call back Monday afternoon to confirm and get my tracking number. I did just that. As he read the tracking number to me, I typed it in to the couriers tracking web page. The latest activity read, "Delivery attempted." It was accepted somewhere in the US on Friday, in Toronto on Saturday, my home town Sunday and out for delivery Monday morning.
> 
> Wow! That's service. Old unit shipped back on Epson's dime. New unit installed and running fine.


Same experience here. . Excellent customer service from Epson.


----------



## SilverJS

Gents,

I'm sure some enterprising owners here have replaced their PJ's fan? Mine has started making an intermittent clicking noise, which I suppose signals impending death. How would one go about that? What about sourcing parts?

I'm quite used to working with PC's and stuff, if that matters.

Cheers!


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

detroit1 said:


> I am ready to buy another bulb
> 
> please let me know the best low priced $50 bulb to buy for the 8350
> 
> I know some on this forum have used these lower prices bulbs


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-301.html#post32312945

post #9020 of 9030 Old 03-04-2015, 07:20 AM


----------



## Protonus

*Questions for those very knowledgeable with this projectors, have ran them with the covers off, or have repaired them:*

0.) I want to confirm the following is normal startup procedure. *Anyone could (please!) try this if they run the projector with the lamp out, and the cover switch depressed* (the cross shaped opening over a switch that the lamp door pushes on. A screwdriver works.):
A.) The front black, exhaust fan (looking down at the lamp well, with lens in front) doesn't run on startup. I believe it probably starts up later once the bulb gets up to temp.

B.) The auto iris is fully opened from whatever position it started in and left open

C.) The cinema filter slides back and forth once, to the end of it's travel (limit switches).

1.) Has anyone found a service manual for this model? Or at least a parts list?

2.) At the front left corner of the lamp well (looking top down, lens at front), where the lamp sits, there is a *small (1" tall, maybe 1/4" wide?), white-ish ceramic (I think?) electrical component with two white leads*. The front of this component is exposed, meaning, it can be seen from the inside of the lamp well. The wires run to the main switches. I believe it to be a thermal breaker, or thermal switch, can anyone confirm?

3.) *My projector is doing the following:* It turns on, lamp is energized/lit, and the word Epson becomes projected. All fans startup, except the large front black exhaust fan in front of the lamp, that blows out the front. The auto iris opens up to full aperture. The cinema filter slides back and forth once in each direction (hits the limits switches). Shortly after (about 5 seconds after the unit is turned on), the lamp shuts off, the fans ramp to full speed, and the Temp light begins flashing red on / off once a second. Fans run for ~1 minute, then it powers down. It now does this every single time. It was doing it intermittently for a few months, on startup - and very once in a while, it would shut off during use (but then usually could be turned right back on). It only started doing it after I replaced a lamp that failed catastrophically (exploded). 

For these reasons, I'm thinking that the component I named is a thermal breaker, that is tripped and thinks it's overheating. And that it now failed completely. My auto iris and cinema filter work just fine from what I see.


----------



## ashyt16

If you look at the pic below you will see a sensor in the middle. The thing with 2 black wires running to it. This is a temp sensor, I think there is another near the lamp if memory serves correct.
During my repair I accidentally forgot to reconnect this and it caused the pj to shut down similar to yours.
I would look at maybe replacing the sensors
http://s25.postimg.org/69777owf3/IMAG0174.png


----------



## Topher

My 8345 (2-3 years old with 2000 on it) has a red tint in the middle & a blue tint on the right. Is this the polarizers going? I just put in a brand new Epson bulb.

Thanks.


----------



## Protonus

ashyt16 said:


> If you look at the pic below you will see a sensor in the middle. The thing with 2 black wires running to it. This is a temp sensor, I think there is another near the lamp if memory serves correct.
> During my repair I accidentally forgot to reconnect this and it caused the pj to shut down similar to yours.
> I would look at maybe replacing the sensors
> http://s25.postimg.org/69777owf3/IMAG0174.png


Thank you, don't think I've come across that one yet! There is for sure, another temp sensor (a thermistor) on a tiny green circuit board, screwed to the outside of the lamp well, near the front. I verified it's a temp sensor (the resistance drops with heat and increases as it's' cooled off).

*That said, I think I found my problem*. As I noted above, what I was finding was that the large, black, axial, front exhaust fan, the one that's open to the lamp well, and blows out the front of the projector, was not turning on with the rest of the fans during startup, and remained off, even once the PJ shut off the lamp, and would flash the Temp light. I wasn't sure if this was normal or not. I thought maybe the PJ kept this fan off during startup to let the bulb warm up quicker?

*I have since found out, that is not normal*. Last night before I tore apart the projector again, I decided to try firing it up first... and it worked! Immediately, first try. I *noticed that the front exhaust fan was on though, and came on with the other fans.* I tried it a few more times with the lamp out, and it worked just fine, so I put the lamp in, tried a few more power cycles with the lamp in, still worked great.

So I took it to my Theatre, hooked it up, aligned it etc, worked awesome. I then continued to use it for about another hour, during which, as I was watching a DVD, it suddenly and inexplicably, shut it self off, and put the fans into high speed. This is the same thing it did before I started trying repairing it.

As I tried to turn it back on, it once again, did the same start-up behavior. About 5 seconds after turning it on, it'll turn itself off and flash the temp light. 

I can only assume,* that the front exhaust fan in question is flaky, and failing*. The fan is a 3 wire fan, so it's likely that it has a tach signal it reports to the motherboard to say if it's running or not. My guess is, it stopped running, the mobo knew that from the tach signal, and turned off the PJ to prevent overheating. And I bet it's not starting up again with startup, thus it won't finish booting up.

Unfortunately, that fan looks like a nightmare to get out. It doesn't seem to be removable from the lamp well area, there is plastic covering the corners. And it looks like to remove it from the front, you'd have to turn it sideways and pull it out. I gotta take a look again.

*Anyone replaced or removed this front exhaust fan?* Any tips?


----------



## Protonus

SilverJS said:


> I'm sure some enterprising owners here have replaced their PJ's fan?


Which fan are you having a problem with? There are at least 3 different fans. 
Are you sure it's the fan you're hearing?
Is your PJ turning itself off or erroring?


----------



## steve f

I just got my 8350 a couple of days ago from Visual Apex, new not a refurb. In doing some testing I was sitting right next to the projector. . 

I'm running in Eco mode and with Dynamic, Living Room, Cinema, Natural the fan noise is constant and the same for all modes, but the fan noise in x.v. Color mode is not noticable at all, it just goes away as soon as I switch to x.v Color. Is this SOP for the 8350? The fan cranks up again immediately as soon as I switch back to any of the other modes.

The fan noise is the only negative I've come across, I think it's louder than the 22db-28db I see quoted in reviews and will be somewhate noticeable in quiet scenes once I get the pj installed on it's shelf (after basement repairs). Otherwise I'm pretty impressed the projector, especially at the closeout price.


----------



## SilverJS

Protonus said:


> Which fan are you having a problem with? There are at least 3 different fans.
> Are you sure it's the fan you're hearing?
> Is your PJ turning itself off or erroring?


I did not know there were three - but what the heck, I'd change all three of them as the unit is four years old.

The projector is not turning itself on and off, and no errors. There's just some noises coming from the PJ that are clearly from fans dying, noises I've heard before in PC's.

Are all three fans accessible and user-replaceable (assuming a certain degree of skill)?


----------



## Protonus

SilverJS said:


> I did not know there were three - but what the heck, I'd change all three of them as the unit is four years old.


The fans are expensive, and hard to find. I would highly recommend finding exactly what fan is failing (for the reasons I'll state below). You could use a mechanics stethoscope (or a dowel rod etc), against the internals of the projector while it's open and operational, to determine the source of noise. To run the projector while it's open, you can take the top and sides off (the one side with controls and the top with buttons are on long ribbon cables you can leave attached and off to the side). Then there is a big black plastic safety switch to shut the projector off so you can't run it with the lamp cover off, just depress this or tape it down. Lastly, I would recommend taking the lamp out as well, as there is no reason to wear the lamp as you turn the unit off/on etc.

While they are just fans, they are proprietary to Epson projectors and only used on a few models (Projector manufacturers often order custom fans in order to keep noise down, specify a specific RPM, etc). The part numbers on them you'll find are virtually unsourceable, depending on the fan. I just went thru this myself. This eBay seller, is literally the only place I found brand new fans for our model projectors:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/scandig/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

That seller has been wonderful to work with FWIW. Search his items for sale for the exact model of fan you have using the search bar at the top of that page. I believe he currently stocks all fans we'd need.

Most of the fans I found elsewhere were actually used. Putting a used fan in an older projector seems like a huge waste of money/time to me.



SilverJS said:


> The projector is not turning itself on and off, and no errors. There's just some noises coming from the PJ that are clearly from fans dying, noises I've heard before in PC's.


FWIW, it's very possible it's not the fans you're hearing then. Most (perhaps all) of the fans are 3 wire fans, which means the projector can monitor their speed via a tach/clock signal on the third wire. So if they begin to slow down, it'll shut down with a Temp warning. Furthermore, there is at least one, full time actively monitored temperature sensor as well, and possibly more, so again, if it gets warm, it'll error and shut down. 

It may be the other two, motor driven components in the projector instead that you're hearing - the sliding Cinema Filter, and the Auto Iris. Especially if the noise you're hearing isn't constant. You'll hear the whine/grind of the Cinema Filter every time you turn on the projector because it slides back and forth between 2 limit switches, as well as when you switch between Cinema mode, and Living Room or Dynamic. You'll hear the Auto Iris in any mode it's enabled in, while the projected image white level changes. 



SilverJS said:


> Are all three fans accessible and user-replaceable (assuming a certain degree of skill)?


Not at all, they're certainly not designed to be enduser replaceable and they're all buried. If you're expecting this to be like repairing a desktop PC you're in for a shock. It's more like repairing a laptop from hell. The only one I'd consider even remotely "easy" is the rear mounted, lamp intake air blower fan, which blows thru a small ~1" square duct into the rear side of the lamp directly to cool it. And even that fan requires first opening the projector (about a dozen screws, 3 on one side, 2 on another, about 8 on the bottom and a few on the back too), then removing the entire motherboard from the top of the projector to access it, and that motherboard is held in with about 8 screws, and probably 15 or so wires and cables run to it that must first be unplugged, including the delicate high density ribbon cables that run to each LCD. 

If you take your time as you'll need to do, but are confident, you can open up the projector and take out the motherboard, in about 30 minutes I'd say, if you already know what you're doing (I've done it a few times now). But your first time? That might take you 2 hours. Take pictures as you go, note what screws go where, etc.

The other fans are buried. The one I'm about to replace myself is the front exhaust fan, which is an axial fan inside of a ductwork. Best I can tell last time I had it open, even though it's easy to see, it looks like you might have to remove the entire light engine to actually get at it and replace it, ugh.

I'm going to be doing that in the next few days. While I have it all apart I can take a picture or two showing where the fans I'm aware of are at least.


----------



## SilverJS

Wow. First, props for the lengthy reply, and thanks - your time is very much appreciated. Point by point :



Protonus said:


> The fans are expensive, and hard to find. I would highly recommend finding exactly what fan is failing (for the reasons I'll state below). You could use a mechanics stethoscope (or a dowel rod etc), against the internals of the projector while it's open and operational, to determine the source of noise.


OK, Roger that. The noise is a plastic vibration - interesting thing is, though, in the last few days, I've noticed it goes away after 5-10 minutes. Weird...



Protonus said:


> FWIW, it's very possible it's not the fans you're hearing then. Most (perhaps all) of the fans are 3 wire fans, which means the projector can monitor their speed via a tach/clock signal on the third wire. So if they begin to slow down, it'll shut down with a Temp warning. Furthermore, there is at least one, full time actively monitored temperature sensor as well, and possibly more, so again, if it gets warm, it'll error and shut down.
> 
> It may be the other two, motor driven components in the projector instead that you're hearing - the sliding Cinema Filter, and the Auto Iris. Especially if the noise you're hearing isn't constant. You'll hear the whine/grind of the Cinema Filter every time you turn on the projector because it slides back and forth between 2 limit switches, as well as when you switch between Cinema mode, and Living Room or Dynamic. You'll hear the Auto Iris in any mode it's enabled in, while the projected image white level changes.


The only time I hear the Auto Iris is when I first turn the projector on, or when I switch sources (say, going from my HTPC to my PS3) as it adjusts brightness. Does the Cinema Filter noise go on for about 10ish minutes...?

Point taken about the fans, but dude - I'm blown away. Sounds to me they had to re-invent the wheel here, as there are quite a few very experienced fan makers in the PC world that make great, silent hardware that push a pretty decent amount of air. Oh well. 

If you are indeed changing them, some pictures might indeed be very, very helpful - not only to me, I assume, but to all other owners as this projector ages.


----------



## Protonus

*I'm happy to report I've fixed my projector! It was indeed, the front exhaust fan! *It certainly should always be spinning from the moment all the other fans are spun up. Mine was intermittently failing to start at all. Since it's a 3 wire fan, the PJ knew it wasn't running and it would turn off and error with the temp light flashing. This problem started after I had a bulb explode (about 1000 lamp hours ago) and I believe this fan literally sucked in some debris and particles from the explosion. It was initially intermittent, sometimes just turning it off/on again and it would work for days. But towards the end, it virtually never worked, and when it did, it would fail once the PJ was running for a while, leading to the repair. 
*
I bought a new, exact replacement fan from the eBay seller I mentioned in my prior post, installed it (per my instructions below), and, it's all set!* I hope all this info helps someone else in the future.


SilverJS said:


> Wow. First, props for the lengthy reply, and thanks - your time is very much appreciated.


You're welcome. This is sort of my thing heh. I've learned a lot by fixing things and I like to share what I learn, because people like me rely on information like this. Please note, I'm including some of the text below as clickable links to images for illustrative purposes.



SilverJS said:


> OK, Roger that. The noise is a plastic vibration - interesting thing is, though, in the last few days, I've noticed it goes away after 5-10 minutes. Weird...


Don't get me wrong, especially without hearing it, that could certainly be a fan. One which the bearings are starting to go in, and until it gets up to temp, there is too much play and it vibrates. The thing is the fans in this PJ are very acoustically dampened - they utilize floating designs, with plastic on plastic mounting, with the fans themselves, isolated and dampened on all possible contact points with neoprene rubber. It'll have to be really bad I think for it to be all that noticeable. But that means if you run it with the projector open / apart, per my prior post, you should be able to find it pretty quick.



SilverJS said:


> The only time I hear the Auto Iris is when I first turn the projector on, or when I switch sources (say, going from my HTPC to my PS3) as it adjusts brightness. Does the Cinema Filter noise go on for about 10ish minutes...?


These two components make very different noises and at different times. There's a lot to say about them, so I figure I'll answer any potential questions about them up front:

*Auto Iris*: This is two brass plates with a very small aperture (half circle) cut out of the middle of each of them. These plates are second thing the light from the lamp is to encounter. Only 1 single lens is between them and the lamp. Unlike what the name implies (Iris), this not *not* like a* SLR camera's complex round iris*, and it isn't in the main lens like a camera either. Instead, this is more like two window shutters. The point is to block a lot of the light from the lamp, during images that are mostly dark/black, in order to dramatically increase black level and perceived contrast, and to open, allowing all of the lamps's light to be used, during scenes that are mostly white, in order to increase perceived brightness and color saturation.

They are driven to open/close (much like *Johnny 5's "eyelids" in Short Circuit*), by plastic gears mounted to one side. These are directly driven by a small, precise servo motor. As the motor spins, the gears open/close the plates. The projector knows that the plates are still "within operating range" based on a gate style optical sensor (a U shaped optical sensor, with a light on one side and a receiver on the other, very similar to what many older mechanical (ball) based computer mice used). On one of the plastic gears, is a semi circle protrusion/ridge that moves thru this optical sensor. When the gears hit their normal limit, this ridge moves out of the sensor and I presume the projector than knows that's as far as they can move in that direction.

During operation, the noise they make could be best described as a "rumble". It's a low pitched, rumbly sound. Not much louder than the fans themselves, but loud enough you might hear it while watching a movie, during quiet scenes where the image white level changes a lot.

On startup of the projector, the iris is fully opened from wherever it was, before the fans are started. Since much of the time it isn't run fully open (depending on what Color Mode you are set to) that means on most start ups of the project, you will hear it clearly for about a half second or so.

During operation of the projector, it will continue to actuate, opening / closing slightly all of the time - IF the Color Mode / Memory setting you're using, has the *Auto Iris set to Normal or High Speed*. I believe it's on high speed by default in Cinema mode, and possibly Normal in Living Room? (all of my modes are tweaked). You will most notice the noise it makes and it's effect, if you are watching something which goes from mostly black, to mostly white. A great example is the start of Star Wars Episode IV - as they go from space (mostly black) to the interior of the Rebel ship (mostly white). 

You will often hear it actuate as you switch inputs as you mention, because the image goes black between modes. 

Possible reasons for failure of this component: Optical sensor dirty/damaged, gears stripped, loss of lubrication (uses silicone grease), motor failure, etc.

*Cinema Filter: *This is a bluish looking glass lens, that's framed inside of a plastic plate. This is placed _after _the auto iris (in terms of light path). The point of this component is that LCD elements and hot projector lamps, naturally have some color balance issues, pushing some colors more than others. This is particularly noticeable when watching a movie in a very dark room. This filter eliminates some of that color push by partially blocking certain colors of light from the lamp, increasing color accuracy. The trade off of course is that some of the brightness is lost, and as such, this is only to be used in very dark rooms, and for movies, etc. And that's why AFAIK, it's only used in the Cinema mode.

The plastic plate that the glass lens is placed in, has a flat plastic gear cast into the plastic as part of it. This flat gear, is moved back and forth by a circular gear at the bottom of the lens plate - like a* lego steering rack*. This circular gear is then in turn driven by a gear box, which is attached to a servo motor. The amount of force to move that window back and forth is fairly large (you'll notice it seems rather "tight" if you try and slide it back and forth by hand), and the motor is tiny, hence the gearbox. The plastic lens plate is secured at it's top by sitting in a metal rail, which it slides in (like a sliding door). On this rail, is mounted, two small limit switches with white plastic "flippers". As the lens plate moves to each end of the limit of it's travel, it hits these switches, one in each direction. Thus the projector knows when it's reached the end of it's travel.

During operation, the noise it makes could be best described as a whine/grind. It is quite loud, sounds a bit like an old Dot Matrix Printer. 

On Startup, the lens plate is normally moved once in one direction till it hits it's limit switch, then it's moved in the other direction until it hit's the other limit switch. This happens before the fans start, and is very loud and easy to notice. 

During operation of the projector, I don't believe this component is ever actuated, unless you change Color Mode to Cinema, or from Cinema. You will distinctly hear it when you change to/from Cinema though. You'll notice it's effect in Cinema mode because the colors of the projector will appear a bit muted, and more accurate, as well as just being a darker image overall. The reverse is true in the other modes.

Possible reasons for failure of this component: The limit switches aren't closing/shorting electrically when they are lifted/actuated, so the projector faults (dirty internally. Easily checked with a continuity tester / resistance meter). Or the gears inside of the gearbox which are plastic, have broken a tooth, or shredded. Or theservo motor has failed. Etc.



SilverJS said:


> Point taken about the fans, but dude - I'm blown away. Sounds to me they had to re-invent the wheel here, as there are quite a few very experienced fan makers in the PC world that make great, silent hardware that push a pretty decent amount of air. Oh well.


I know where you're coming from (I work in the PC industry), but you're *greatly* over simplifying things. I'll explain:

PC's have extremely simple cooling requirements when compared to a projector. First of all they are generally far less expensive, and can have very large cases in which to work with lots of empty/wasted space. Parts like fans and cases are universal and aren't OEM specific. Air routing matters very little, and the same air can be used everywhere to cool anything. Basically all you need to do, is keep the hot stuff cold. The colder the better - virtually all components you find in a PC benefit from being literally as cold as possible. You can use whatever means you can do do so (fixed heatsinks, radiators, fans - blower and axial, heat pipes, peltiers, even water cooling, cryogenics or even full submersion in deionized water). And bonus points if you do so quietly. Thus you can make the fan speed relative to the temperature, speeding up only when needed. And that's about it.

Projectors are a whole different ball game. First, you actually _want _the lamp to be hot. That's why your bulb has to "warm up" when you first turn on the PJ. The lamp does not reach full brightness when cold. However, italso cannot get _too hot_. Or it'll explode, fail, or it's life greatly diminished. So extremely precise cooling is needed. This is why they use a blower fan (because it needs to develop pressure) that is ducted to a small, 1" or so, precise opening on the lamp housing to blow cool air directly onto the lamp itself. The fan speed must be monitored, and regulated, to coincide with a temperature sensor near the lamp, so the temperature can be kept at the sweet spot. 

But other things in the projector, like the electronics/processors need to be kept cold too. They need their own clean air, and it can't come from the lamp as that air is now piping hot. So separate air paths are needed for the processors. Then you also have the power supply and lamp ballast, which are also very hot, and also, cannot use the lamp air, so they get their own blower fan, with it's own clean air entrance. 

Then, once all these seperate air paths are used and all their components are cooled, you have to get this now, "dirty/hot" air out of the projector, as quick as you can. Thus you also need an exhaust fan. Oh, and the heat from the projector has to be directed away from the lens, outside the projector, because hot air will cause noticeable "heat waves" in the projected image which are really bad. So exhaust air exit location, and it's angle is important (hence the angled vanes in the air exhaust on the front of our projectors).

And since we're dealing with a precision optical system, you need to eliminate dust. So an air filter has to be employed, and that means all separate air paths need to originate at the same entrance, so they can share this filter. But air filters greatly reduce air flow, so you need powerful fans that can over come this. And all ducting must be as air tight as possible, as to reduce any dust distribution.

All fans must be speed monitored, and controlled in real time as to not let anything over heat. And the projector needs to be designed to quickly shut itself off should anything fail, lest something burn out.

All of this needs to be inside the projector, and packed as tightly as possible, as overall size should be as small as possible. People don't want big or heavy home theatre projectors. No space should be wasted.

Oh, and all of this? It needs to be _whisper _quiet. The quieter the better. In a theatre, outside noise is to be eliminated at all costs. You need it to be as quiet as literally possible. Much of the measure of the quality and design of a projector comes from how quiet it is. So all fans need to be very efficient, both normally quiet and acoustically dampened, RPM's optomized, etc.

Hopefully, you're starting to get the picture. Designing a good cooling system for a projector like this is not only a difficult engineering challenge, but also, has a lot to do with whether that projector will even be sold well or recommended. Noisy and huge projectors get left on the shelf.

*OK wow, that got to be a long post. I'm going to put the teardown and images in a second post, i'll put up shortly!*


----------



## audio4life

An Epson owner chiming in, though I've got the earlier 8100 version. I've developed the distorted/burned polarizer blob of failure on my screen, a pinkish 2 foot blob that gets darker and darker. Googled and looked it up and tore my projector apart. Found the offending polarizer with help from a thread on this forum, but can't do anything about it. I've decided to buy a new projector, and looking on the Epson threads, there seems to be a lot of issues after a few years usage. I was also buying bulbs every 1000-1200 hours or so.

I'm wondering if the DLP designs are any better for problems free operation. They have no air filters to bother with and I don't read about burnt lens issues. Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?


----------



## Tesla1856

Protonus said:


> There's a lot to say about them, so I figure I'll answer any potential questions about them up front:



Thank you for the detailed post. For those of us familiar working inside this class of machine, might be helpful one day. I've archived it.


----------



## Protonus

(...continued from last post)



SilverJS said:


> If you are indeed changing them, some pictures might indeed be very, very helpful - not only to me, I assume, but to all other owners as this projector ages.


I did indeed, take some pictures, and I made a diagram that I think others will find helpful as well. Gallery here:

First, here is a shot of the internals of the projector, *after* you've removed the motherboard from the top of it (which has about a dozen electrical connectors and like 8 screws holding it in place):
Original / high res version here: http://i.imgur.com/uAQxWgW.jpg








Second, this is the same photo, only I've added labels to the various major components of the projector, including the 3 (or 4?) fan locations, Cinema Filter, Auto Iris, etc. 

Original / high res version here: http://i.imgur.com/Y75tOMl.jpg








Lastly, as mentioned above, it was the front exhaust fan I was trying to replace. *It ended up being not nearly as bad to replace, as I thought it was going to be*. The fan is located inside of ductwork, located in front of the lamp well. I thought I was going to have to take the light engine out to get to it. That is not the case.

There are actually two separate pieces of exhaust ductwork, which sort of slide/lock together. You'll see what I mean when you take them apart. I've labeled them #1 and #2 in the diagram above.

They are both held in places with ~6 black screws, around the outside edge of the duct. One of these screws is buried, down in front of the power supply (you can see a screw sized, half circle opening in the duct at the far right of the diagram above, that's the one). Once these screws are removed, you can begin to wiggle the duct work itself out.

Once the ductwork is out, you can slide off duct #2 . That will leave the duct, that has the fan trapped inside it. *The ductwork splits into two halves. *This isn't particularly noticeable until you remove the duct to look at it. There are two black screws that secure the halves together, as well as two plastic latches too. I have a picture of one of these latches on the side of the duct, in the picture below. Once you take the two screws out, and open the two latches up enough, you can pull the two halves of the duct apart. There is a silver piece of trim as well, between the two halves. This aligns with screw holes and plastic pegs in the duct (you can see this trim sticking out of the left side of the duct in the picture below)

Original / high res version here:http://i.imgur.com/1fn42kX.jpg








Now the exhaust fan is exposed and ready to be changed out (see my above post for a link to where you can get it on eBay). The fan is only held in place by friction, provided by 8 neoprene rubber bumpers. Chances are your new fan won't have these rubber bumpers, so you'll need to re-use them. You can very carefully, just simply pull them off the old fan. Just do it slowly, or with heat from a heat gun. Once they are all removed, I attached them to the new fan, using 1/2" Scotch Permanent Double Sided Tape. I cut each piece of tape to the same length as the bumper, then pressed down hard and stuck them to each corner of the fan. This left the little "wings" of the bumpers that go over the front/back of the fan, "hanging" though. To secure those, I used a drop of *low temp* hot glue, from a hot glue gun on low. Worked perfectly.


----------



## Protonus

An Epson owner chiming in, though I've got the earlier 8100 version. I've developed the distorted/burned polarizer blob of failure on my screen, a pinkish 2 foot blob that gets darker and darker. Googled and looked it up and tore my projector apart. Found the offending polarizer with help from a thread on this forum, but can't do anything about it. [/QUOTE]

I would buy a used/broken/for parts 8100, and swap the offending component out. Here's one for $10 right now! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Epson-...089?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a3fefd11



audio4life said:


> I was also buying bulbs every 1000-1200 hours or so.


Were you cleaning the filter out every few hundred hours of usage at least? Were you running in high altitude mode (a good idea)? Did you have your bulb set to low / eco brightness (another good idea)?

Were you using OEM / Epson lamp assemblies? Or were you using aftermarket lamps or retrofits?

All of these things have a huge impact on bulb life. Speaking for my 8350 at least, you should have no problem getting 3k hours out of it.



audio4life said:


> I'm wondering if the DLP designs are any better for problems free operation. They have no air filters to bother with and I don't read about burnt lens issues. Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?


Yes, in general, DLP's are often less trouble. I had a single chip DLP, 720p, Sharp DT-510 that I absolutely loved (that was a freak of a projector too, tons of zoom capability). The bulb was rated for 3k hours. I ran it in eco mode the whole time. I got 7k hours on that original bulb with regular filter cleanings. The bulb started to get some flicker, rather than replace the bulb, I upgraded to my 8350. I cleaned up the Sharp real good, and sold it to a friend. He continued to use that same bulb, with the flicker (it was for his kids) just like I gave it to him, for a whopping, *16,500* hours. No joke. I believe that's the record for that projector. He got a new cheapy aftermarket bulb, and got 2k hours of that one (aftermarket bulbs = not worth the time imho). 

That projector was also quiet, light, and tiny. And the black levels were better than my Epson too, even without an auto iris. DLP generally has better blacks. I miss my DLP's blacks. 



audio4life said:


> Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?


Rainbows should be gone on a higher speed color wheel, and/or multi chip DLP. 

There are disadvantages. First, you tend to get a lot less adjustment range for a given price point of DLP vs LCD. So if you need a short throw, or lens shift, etc, often times your only option for a certain price range is LCD. That is what I ran into when I bought my Epson 8350. DLP's with lens shift and short throw, just did not exist yet in 1080p, a few years ago, for under $1500. I had a requirement of short throw since I needed to throw a 100" image in about 12 feet of throw in order to maintain my prior setup.

Another disadvantage is brightness and color vibrancy. My Epson's colors are much more vivid, bright, etc. They really pop. My Epson is *way, way* brighter than my DLP was. In fact, the 8350 is one of the brightest projectors I've ever used, at any price range. It's a damn light cannon on dynamic, almost unusably bright. Yet it's also a lower wattage bulb. A lower wattage bulb tends to last longer, than a higher wattage one. And DLP's usually use higher wattage bulbs.


----------



## audio4life

Protonus, thanks for your thoughts. My 8100 must be a slight lemon, because I ran it in eco mode, cleaned the filter(bought new filters too) and went through bulbs every 9 to 11 months or so. The colors were only good for about the first 2 months, then the bulb would be on the decline and vibrancy would go south. This is the second LCD projector I've owned(Hitachi) and the first was underwhelming as well. They do seem high maintenance with the filters and running in lower modes.

People rave about the Benq 1070 and the newer 1075 and they are so cheap with reported great colors and brightness. I'd take another chance on the 8350 or 8345 but feel like with the money I've spent on bulbs Epson doesn't deserve my business. My current distance from screen is 12 feet and I've got a 108" diagonal on my screen. I'm still shortlisting models, but I do feel put off of LCD based projectors.


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## johnd393

The 8345 is connected to a Dish receiver that functions as a dvr with a external harddrive. I have a HDnet test pattern saved on the hard drive. The box is no longer recognizing the hard drive. I ordered a external case to install the bare drive in, hoping it's the drives usb adaptor that's bad. I'm holding off on pictures till I get that working, or not. Without the external drive I can't even pause an image. I don't have a BluRay calibration disk. I have a HDDVD disk but can't find it. I did find a camera that's been missing since September. 
I ordered a $13 ceiling mount on eBay. I'll post how that works out.
I need to get the CRT down cus it's in the way. The 8345 will be behind it.


----------



## audio4life

So I decided to cut my losses with this projector. I had called Epson to see if they could offer me any hints on what the issue might be before I tried to repair it myself. They could offer nothing besides the phone number of a service center. A couple of weeks later they phoned me back asking if my experience with their customer service had been satisfactory and if my issue had been resolved. It was nice of them to call, but I've gone thru 5 bulbs in 5 years and now a polarizer is shot, which after spending several hundred to fix, I'd be left with a projector that has about 6200 hours on it and who knows when a fan would go, etc.

So after researching my options I went with the Benq HT1075. No way was I going to give Epson another chance after this experience. I'll get the Benq in a few days, and I'm expecting it to be a little sharper and brighter with 3D thrown in.


----------



## ben38

audio4life said:


> So I decided to cut my losses with this projector. I had called Epson to see if they could offer me any hints on what the issue might be before I tried to repair it myself. They could offer nothing besides the phone number of a service center. A couple of weeks later they phoned me back asking if my experience with their customer service had been satisfactory and if my issue had been resolved. It was nice of them to call, but I've gone thru 5 bulbs in 5 years and now a polarizer is shot, which after spending several hundred to fix, I'd be left with a projector that has about 6200 hours on it and who knows when a fan would go, etc.
> 
> So after researching my options I went with the Benq HT1075. No way was I going to give Epson another chance after this experience. I'll get the Benq in a few days, and I'm expecting it to be a little sharper and brighter with 3D thrown in.


 The 8100 was notoriously bad when it came to bulb life. The 8350 was fine with bulb life as long as you kept it in high altitude mode. I don't think your projector was a lemon. It's just how these projectors performed. Epson should have just given all 8100 owners free bulbs for the life of the projector. (An expensive solution, i know. But losing loyal customers and the bad word of mouth that goes with it is an even bigger loss.) This poor bulb life problem wasn't really resolved until Epson released the 8345. 
With your blue polarizer starting to fail, I agree that you should not throw good money in having the projector repaired. 
Although I'm now using the Epson hc3000, I've had a lot of time using and fiddling around with the Benq projectors. I can tell you from personal experience that you've made a very good move in going with the Benq1075. The Benq is noticeably sharper and brighter with a slightly better black level as well. Right away you'll be struck by how much smaller and lighter the ht1075 is compared to your 8100. On the downside, the 1075 is quite a bit louder and has very limited placement flexibility. But overall, I believe you'll be very happy with your purchase. Good luck.


----------



## audio4life

Thanks for your comments, it's kind of surprising that it took Epson 3 projectors to really get it right, and they had to dial back the 8345 a little bit at that. At any rate, I've heard that the Benq may be loud(the 8100 had also gotten somewhat louder over time) so I'm prepared to make some kind of a hush box if needed. We'll see in a few days.


----------



## zophar

Hi,

My TW3600 projector is turning off when used in Dynamic mode. The lens makes a shifting/rotating noise (like the one when you power up the projector, around the lens not the fan) about 5 mins into the viewing and turns off. Both the lamp and temp light blink red simultaneously. 

If I view it on Cinema mode, its absolutely fine and doesn't make the lens doesnt make the shifting/rotating noise. I ran it for 3-4 hours yesterday without any issues multiple times.
I really want to go back to Dynamic mode as Cinema is way way too dark for my room which has some ambient light. The bulb only has 1700 hours on it. 

Projector is 2+ years old. 

Any suggestions/insight? Anybody experienced similar issues? I can provide more details if necessary

Thank you


----------



## robertw11

Well another strike for me with Epson. My 8350 now dims and brightens in Eco mode. Normal mode is fine, and switching back to normal, then back to Eco fixes the issue temporarily. The issue returns a few days later. This projector really is a piece of garbage, it's always something.

I may just run it in normal, when the bulb pops I going to junk this projector and cut my losses. No one should have to go through 3 replacement projectors in a years time. Epson has a great warranty but man these projectors are just one issue after the other.


----------



## newguy87

Hi everyone - 

I've poured through pages on this thread but can't find an issue similar to mine. It very well may be my own ignorance or stupidity but hopefully one of you friendly folks can help me out here...

Just got a house with media room that was pre-wired. Ceiling-mounted 8350 has HDMI running through ceiling to room behind screen where I have a Yamaha RX A740 setup. Picture/video feed works from projector to receiver...but it's only displaying in 480p resolution. This despite the fact that the only I/O I have connected from projector to receiver is an HDMI cord, and I was using a Blu-Ray player with Blu-Ray disc connected via HDMI to receiver to test video quality.

Am I missing some setting here or is there potentially something wrong with the projecter where it is not outputting at 1080p when I am using best possible video sources? I went through all menu options on the 8350 including resetting memory/settings as well as trying HDMI2 port on the projector but it continues to display what should be 1080p content only in 480p.

Any assistance with this issue would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I'd take a look at the BR player and the disc -- is it BR or DVD? Is the player somehow set to 480p not 1080p? Hook the player DIRECTLY to the 8350 with a 6' HDMI cable and see what it does -- this will eliminate ant video processing settings of the Yammy. It will also allow you to look for switches on the BR player and/or menus causing the non-1080p output.


----------



## F12Bwth

Built a 104" borderless 2.35:1 screen for my 8350. 16:9 is so last week.


----------



## kaotikr1

I picked up one of these refurbished and I have to admit for a gaming and HDTV projector it's a darn good buy.


----------



## southpaw85

kaotikr1 said:


> I picked up one of these refurbished and I have to admit for a gaming and HDTV projector it's a darn good buy.
> 
> View attachment 705810


I know the Epson isn't a small projector, but that JVC is a beast! Glad you enjoy the 8350. I have an 8345 myself. I know the Epson isn't in the same league as a JVC, but if you get a chance, could you show pictures of each them with similar material/movie shots to compare?


----------



## jdfrietze

Talk about late to the party. I just got my Refurb 8345 from Visual Apex ($549 + tax). I ordered it last Monday and it arrived last Wednesday, on the same UPS truck as my 40' HDMI cable and port saver and 5-port Sabrent HDMI switch. Rear shelf mounted where my Sanyo PLV-Z4 used to be (RIP - 2013). Looks perfect; super sharp, no convergence issues. And wow is it bright. My living room has some good light control, but it is not a cave during the day, and we can easily watch most stuff in Natural or Cinema mode.

I'm just shooting onto a blackout cloth pinned to the wall right now, but I am hopefully going to get some time over the summer to build a frame for either a BOC or Sintra screen. I've got about a 106" image from 16' or so. And my wife still says, "Wow that's bright."

Blu-Ray of course looks great, but I was really impressed with how my SD Xvid and mp4 content looks running through my hacked AppleTV running Crytalbuntu/XBMC.

We're over 60 hours already. She put in some serious Bioshock time on Saturday. 

Now I just have to re-read through all 302 pages of posts and figure out all of the in depth settings to get the most out of my setup.

Thanks for all of the input, and keep it coming.


----------



## nxsfan

jdfrietze said:


> Talk about late to the party. I just got my Refurb 8345 from Visual Apex ($549 + tax).


I also picked up an 8345 from Visual Apex. After years with DLP projectors, this is my first 3-LCD projector.

I expected the image would be a little softer than my DLPs, but there is a noticeable convergence "issue". I can't really notice it during most video content, but it's noticeable on the desktop/menus/logos etc.










What mystifies me is that my wife, who doesn't notice the rainbow effect or the soap opera effect and is the kind of person who could watch content at the wrong aspect ratio and not notice, immediately picked up on this and claims it makes her feel weird.

So what should I do? Right now the projector isn't setup in it's final location, is there a chance that changing zoom/lens shift a little might fix the convergence? I would like the keep the model. Should I try the Epson lottery?


----------



## MississippiMan

nxsfan said:


> I also picked up an 8345 from Visual Apex. After years with DLP projectors, this is my first 3-LCD projector.
> 
> I expected the image would be a little softer than my DLPs, but there is a noticeable convergence "issue". I can't really notice it during most video content, but it's noticeable on the desktop/menus/logos etc.
> 
> 
> 
> What mystifies me is that my wife, who doesn't notice the rainbow effect or the soap opera effect and is the kind of person who could watch content at the wrong aspect ratio and not notice, immediately picked up on this and claims it makes her feel weird.
> 
> So what should I do? Right now the projector isn't setup in it's final location, is there a chance that changing zoom/lens shift a little might fix the convergence? I would like the keep the model. Should I try the Epson lottery?


Request a Return / Replacement. Changing locations won't correct out-of-alignment LCD Panels, and the PJ has no built-in correction controls.

What your experiencing isn't all that Common, and if that is a new PJ then you should get a New one in exchange. Or opt for a 8350 instead.

Personally, I don't much care for VA Refurbs. They have a bad track record for shipping out returns labeled as Refurbs, which are not fixed. Projector People seems far more trustworthy and considerate when any return is needed.


----------



## Kilgore

MississippiMan said:


> Request a Return / Replacement. Changing locations won't correct out-of-alignment LCD Panels, and the PJ has no built-in correction controls.
> 
> What your experiencing isn't all that Common, and if that is a new PJ then you should get a New one in exchange. Or opt for a 8350 instead.
> 
> Personally, I don't much care for VA Refurbs. They have a bad track record for shipping out returns labeled as Refurbs, which are not fixed. Projector People seems far more trustworthy and considerate when any return is needed.


I've always dealt with Epson directly and have nothing but praise for their service. Over the last 7 years I got two replacements under warranty and both were problem free.


----------



## nxsfan

MississippiMan said:


> Request a Return / Replacement. Changing locations won't correct out-of-alignment LCD Panels, and the PJ has no built-in correction controls.
> 
> What your experiencing isn't all that Common, and if that is a new PJ then you should get a New one in exchange. Or opt for a 8350 instead.
> 
> Personally, I don't much care for VA Refurbs. They have a bad track record for shipping out returns labeled as Refurbs, which are not fixed. Projector People seems far more trustworthy and considerate when any return is needed.


Right it is a refurb. It looked new and showed 10 hour operational lifetime, so it seemed like a steal at first. It was advertised as manufacture refurbished, having the full 2 year manufacturer warranty I understood this to mean that my 8345 was covered by the same rapid replacement policy that new projectors have. I hope I wasn't mistaken. 

I will contact Epson.

Update: Well my initial Epson experience has been a little irritating. I called them on Friday and sent my proof of purchase 10 minutes later. I was told to expect a call 24-48 hours later, but it was the holiday weekend so I waited ~100 hours. I called them this evening to make sure things were going smoothly and they had no record of my email. I had to go through the process again (new reference number) and once again I can expect a call within 24-48 hours.

Update2: Epson eventually told me that they couldn't do anything as I was still inside the seller's return period (why it took a week for me to get that response I don't know). I was a bit tetchy about this, but I contacted Visual Apex and they were great, they said they would file an RMA with Epson and send me a return shipping label and assuming they had tracking for my return they would ship me a replacement as soon as stock arrived. Except I never received the shipping label and by the time I contacted them I had missed the first shipment window. I'm not sure if everyone has these kinds of experiences or if I'm just lucky.


----------



## asciimo

*Strange background distortion after replacing lamp*

I just replaced my 8350's lamp after 1575 hours. I replaced it with a lamp with an Osram bulb from Amazon (product id B00M4MSW5M) and immediately noticed an odd distortion on the image. It almost looks like a uniformly dirty LCD, but with a horizontal hairline through the picture almost perfectly in the center of the image. Text is clear and sharp and bright, but everything else looks like it's being projected on a concrete wall. (I project onto a projector screen.)

What could cause this? Is it possible that the lamp is contributing this effect? I inspected the lamp to make sure there was no plastic film on the glass; it was perfectly clean looking. Could the old bulb's burnout have spewed matter perfectly across the LCD panel? What about the horizontal line?

I am currently looking for a second replacement lamp to compare against, and hopefully determine if it's the lamp or the LCD or something else.


----------



## kumanzc

asciimo said:


> I just replaced my 8350's lamp after 1575 hours. I replaced it with a lamp with an Osram bulb from Amazon (product id B00M4MSW5M) and immediately noticed an odd distortion on the image. It almost looks like a uniformly dirty LCD, but with a horizontal hairline through the picture almost perfectly in the center of the image. Text is clear and sharp and bright, but everything else looks like it's being projected on a concrete wall. (I project onto a projector screen.)
> 
> What could cause this? Is it possible that the lamp is contributing this effect? I inspected the lamp to make sure there was no plastic film on the glass; it was perfectly clean looking. Could the old bulb's burnout have spewed matter perfectly across the LCD panel? What about the horizontal line?
> 
> I am currently looking for a second replacement lamp to compare against, and hopefully determine if it's the lamp or the LCD or something else.


My lamp blew up on me about a month ago, even spewed stuff out from the vents but my replacement lamp worked fine. It was an OEM lamp though - in fact I should give credit to Epson on this thread. My projector is a little over 2 years old and the lamp had 2700 hours on it but it was pretty dim 1.5 years in with 2200 hours on it at which time I emailed Epson regarding it. They told me to call in and discuss with a rep but I was lazy to do so. I did call when lamp exploded just to see if in the future I could expect the same longevity. They actually sent me a free replacement 'goodwill' bulb out so pretty happy about the whole thing.


----------



## mach250

thinking I might need a new bulb in the next month or two. did a search on amazon and it seems like theres just 25-30 dollar knock-offs and one for 120 stating osram bulb. whats everyone been going with lately?


----------



## curtlots

My one cent on bulbs. I'm up from 1/2 cent since I'm on my 4th. bulb. 

My original bulb lasted roughly 2800 hours and I replaced it because it got noticeably dim. I didn't realize how dim it actually was until I replaced the bulb. Wow, what a difference! 

I read from those that are experienced, that it's best to stick with the stock bulb, instead of going with a generic knock-off. I didn't heed that advice and purchased a $57 "lamp genie" bulb from Amazon. That was in December of 2013 and I was initially quite happy with the bulb. It didn't take long though, before I noticed that the image would flicker while in eco mode. I notified Amazon, and they sent me a replacement. The replacement was the same brand, but when I put the bulb in the projector, I noticed right away, that a white screen wasn't actually white. The white had a reddish shift in color on the left side of the screen, going to a bluish shift in color towards the right side. I sent it back, put the other lamp back in the projector, left the projector on normal mode, and got about 1200 hours out of it. Lesson learned, so I thought. 

I still wasn't ready to buck-up and spend the $250 - $300 for a genuine Epson bulb, so I found a $142 "osram" bulb on Amazon, figuring it may just hit the quality/price sweet spot. This was in July of 2014. I've been living with the bulb, but this one again has a color shift from the left to right side of the screen. I decided to keep it because it's really not noticeable in normal viewing, and the bulb was bright, and didn't flicker in eco mode. After awhile I decided to get more serious about my display, and got a colorimeter so I could finally do more than "calibrate" using the Wow or other calibration discs. I have found that the color shift that the bulb creates has made it impossible to calibrate my projector properly. I'm not so patiently waiting for this bulb to get to the point where I need to replace it. Soon....

At this point, I realize that I've spent roughly the equivalent of a new Epson replacement lamp, on cheap generic lamps, and have not been happy with them. Not only that, but my viewing experience is not what it could have been over the past year and a half. I'm now fully ready to get the real deal.


----------



## MississippiMan

curtlots said:


> At this point, I realize that I've spent roughly the equivalent of a new Epson replacement lamp, on cheap generic lamps, and have not been happy with them. Not only that, but my viewing experience is not what it could have been over the past year and a half. I'm now fully ready to get the real deal.


Any replacement lamp carries with it the same potential for failure...even the OEM'ers

The "real deal" is to purchase from a Amazon Prime Vendor that offers a *160 day replacement policy*. Those places sell Lamps for under $70.00. Do the math. $70.00 every 12 months and it would take you 4 years to reach the cost of a OEM Lamp that only comes with 30 Days warranty! (...if you were unlucky enough to have to replace them every 12 months that is...) Now why do you suppose the most expensive lamps have the shortest warranty period ?

I'm sure you might reason it out. 

Just choose your Cup........... wisely.


----------



## mbaysing

My 8350 (a refurbed warranty replacement) has started behaving strangely after about 6 months. The picture will suddenly darken slightly, and then some point later it will suddenly lighten again. It seems to be gradually getting more frequent.

Is this a sign a bad lamp, or is the projector toast?


----------



## cdelena

My 8350 was delivered in the first batch so it is about five years old with a little over 3000 hours. It still looks good but sure seems to have developed a lot of fan noise (it has been cleaned annually). Is this common and is there any easy cure?


----------



## robertw11

curtlots said:


> My one cent on bulbs. I'm up from 1/2 cent since I'm on my 4th. bulb.
> 
> My original bulb lasted roughly 2800 hours and I replaced it because it got noticeably dim. I didn't realize how dim it actually was until I replaced the bulb. Wow, what a difference!
> 
> I read from those that are experienced, that it's best to stick with the stock bulb, instead of going with a generic knock-off. I didn't heed that advice and purchased a $57 "lamp genie" bulb from Amazon. That was in December of 2013 and I was initially quite happy with the bulb. It didn't take long though, before I noticed that the image would flicker while in eco mode. I notified Amazon, and they sent me a replacement. The replacement was the same brand, but when I put the bulb in the projector, I noticed right away, that a white screen wasn't actually white. The white had a reddish shift in color on the left side of the screen, going to a bluish shift in color towards the right side. I sent it back, put the other lamp back in the projector, left the projector on normal mode, and got about 1200 hours out of it. Lesson learned, so I thought.
> 
> I still wasn't ready to buck-up and spend the $250 - $300 for a genuine Epson bulb, so I found a $142 "osram" bulb on Amazon, figuring it may just hit the quality/price sweet spot. This was in July of 2014. I've been living with the bulb, but this one again has a color shift from the left to right side of the screen. I decided to keep it because it's really not noticeable in normal viewing, and the bulb was bright, and didn't flicker in eco mode. After awhile I decided to get more serious about my display, and got a colorimeter so I could finally do more than "calibrate" using the Wow or other calibration discs. I have found that the color shift that the bulb creates has made it impossible to calibrate my projector properly. I'm not so patiently waiting for this bulb to get to the point where I need to replace it. Soon....
> 
> At this point, I realize that I've spent roughly the equivalent of a new Epson replacement lamp, on cheap generic lamps, and have not been happy with them. Not only that, but my viewing experience is not what it could have been over the past year and a half. I'm now fully ready to get the real deal.


The tinting in the corners you're seeing isn't a result of the particular bulb you're using, and I'd suspect even if you put in a new OEM bulb, you'd see that same issue. The issue being the polarizers, the blue one if you're seeing pink tint resulting in poor uniformity. The blue polarizer is either failing, or dusty, if this is a newer unit, I'd say it's dusty. These projectors love getting dusty, I've gone through 4 units in about a years time. All swapped out due to dust issues, resulting in uniformity issues and dust blobs. These projectors are horrible, but you get what you pay for. Another thing to remember, LCD projectors don't really have a long life span, the polarizers do eventually fail. 

At this point many will argue they've never had dust problems like uniformity, or dust blobs. I'd argue, and more than likely be correct in saying, they just haven't noticed. The dust blobs are only noticeable in a light controlled room on an all black image (green blobs). The uniformity issues are noticeable in a light controlled room on a white image. The newer the bulb (brightness), the more pronounced the problems will be, which further proves my point. There's a lot of posts here, "I have 2500 hrs on my bulb, no dust problems ever", your bulb is too dim to notice. Put a new bulb in, turn all the lights off, and check again. You won't like what you see.



mbaysing said:


> My 8350 (a refurbed warranty replacement) has started behaving strangely after about 6 months. The picture will suddenly darken slightly, and then some point later it will suddenly lighten again. It seems to be gradually getting more frequent.
> 
> Is this a sign a bad lamp, or is the projector toast?


Your projector is probably in ECO mode. Run it in Normal mode for a few days, then throw it back in ECO mode and that issue should go away for a while. This projector, and a few other Epsons, suffer from this issue. My buddy has a 5020, and it's had this issue as well from time to time. Eco mode is the issue.


----------



## mbaysing

robertw11 said:


> Your projector is probably in ECO mode. Run it in Normal mode for a few days, then throw it back in ECO mode and that issue should go away for a while. This projector, and a few other Epsons, suffer from this issue. My buddy has a 5020, and it's had this issue as well from time to time. Eco mode is the issue.


It is in ECO mode. I'll give this a try. Thanks.


----------



## nxsfan

Hey guys. I've obviously got a talent for these things . Visual Apex were great and sent out a replacement as soon as they had updated tracking for my returned projector.

I got the replacement today. Hooked it up and tadaa, no alignment issues. This one seemed dimmer than the last one, but it looked great none the less. However, on dark scenes I noticed a blurry green perfect circle toward the top right corner of the screen. It's subtle and basically invisible on everything but nearly black backgrounds. I'm guessing this is a bit of dust inside the projector, but I'm not sure why it would be green.

I'm a bit bummed. I feel like I should be getting a perfect projector, but maybe that's too much to expect when you buy refurbished. I'll try Visual Apex again and see what they say.


----------



## Andrew Hornfeck

I think that's a dust blob... I've never experienced them although the topic and instructions on how to use canned air to blow them out had been posted on this thread.


----------



## Sid Freeman

nxsfan, those images you posted are of dust blobs. Bits of dust that have found their way into your projector. If you adjust the focus of your lens you will see that it is a tiny spec of dust. I had a few of these form on my 8350 while it was still under warranty. It was annoying enough that I asked for a replacement projector, which Epson provided me. I've had the replacement for 2+ years now and I'm starting to notice a blob forming again (though not as noticeable as last time). Some have gone the route of cleaning out the dust blobs themselves. There are probably discussions about that in this thread if you do a search.


----------



## nxsfan

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> I think that's a dust blob... I've never experienced them although the topic and instructions on how to use canned air to blow them out had been posted on this thread.





Sid Freeman said:


> nxsfan, those images you posted are of dust blobs. Bits of dust that have found their way into your projector. If you adjust the focus of your lens you will see that it is a tiny spec of dust. I had a few of these form on my 8350 while it was still under warranty.


Thanks guys, I called Visual Apex and we are rolling the dice a third time. They convinced me that I'm just unlucky. I liked this last projector in all other respects, so I will regret not trying to fix the blob if the new one has any issues.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

I've got one dust blob on my 8345, 18 months old. Not sure if I will blow it out, like I did my 8350, or call Epson. I really don't want a refurb so I will probably just blow it out when I get a chance. Once I blew away the dust blobs on my 8350 that I had, they never returned.


----------



## curtlots

MississippiMan said:


> Any replacement lamp carries with it the same potential for failure...even the OEM'ers
> 
> The "real deal" is to purchase from a Amazon Prime Vendor that offers a *160 day replacement policy*. Those places sell Lamps for under $70.00. Do the math. $70.00 every 12 months and it would take you 4 years to reach the cost of a OEM Lamp that only comes with 30 Days warranty! (...if you were unlucky enough to have to replace them every 12 months that is...) Now why do you suppose the most expensive lamps have the shortest warranty period ?
> 
> I'm sure you might reason it out.
> 
> Just choose your Cup........... wisely.


I always hold your opinion in high regard MMan! If you have a particular lamp you recommend, I'm willing to give it one more try.


----------



## curtlots

robertw11 said:


> The tinting in the corners you're seeing isn't a result of the particular bulb you're using, and I'd suspect even if you put in a new OEM bulb, you'd see that same issue. The issue being the polarizers, the blue one if you're seeing pink tint resulting in poor uniformity. The blue polarizer is either failing, or dusty, if this is a newer unit, I'd say it's dusty. These projectors love getting dusty, I've gone through 4 units in about a years time. All swapped out due to dust issues, resulting in uniformity issues and dust blobs. These projectors are horrible, but you get what you pay for. Another thing to remember, LCD projectors don't really have a long life span, the polarizers do eventually fail.


I have read about the polarizer issue before. I'm just wondering if that is the issue I'm seeing. I first saw this after my first bulb replacement when the projector had about 2800 hours. The initial replacement had the eco mode flickering issue, so I immediately had the bulb replaced. With this bulb, the image had an extreme amount of color variation from left to right on the screen. Reddish to blueish/green. Putting the other replacement back in the projector took care of the issue. Nice uniformly white screen, but flickering. This is where I just decided to leave the projector in normal mode and live with the original replacement.

Now that I have the "osram" replacement bulb, I'm getting the color variation again, just not nearly as bad as it showed up with the other bulb. 

FYI, I have had dust blobs, and I used the can of air method to blow out the dust. It worked great for all but one blob. Those photos above, are a perfect example of a good solid dust blob! 

What's the method of cleaning the polarizers? I'm about ready to take the projector down again, to try to get rid of that remaining dust blob, and it will be a good time to give it all a good blow.


----------



## judd72

*Looking to Buy a Home Theater System - PLEASE HELP!!!*

I am going to be renting a townhouse for a year while I shop around for a new home. The LL has a 120 inch screen in the basement but does not have anything else down there. Here is offering to sell me what was originally installed down there and help me hook it up, because he is upgrading to a new system. He is asking $1000 for everything I am trying to figure out if that is worth it. 

Also, I have access to: *RCA Home Theater System. 
The system features Dolby digital 5.1ch surround sound speakers with additional subwoofer and five satellites, provides 130 watts of total power, up converts DVD playback to 1080p, and has an aux input for connecting additional music devices. Includes remote control and 2.5 ft. HDMI cable with pivoting head


What he is selling is(I listed the retail for new item where I could find it)


*

*Projector - EPSON 8350*retails now at $1,299.99 (gets awesome reviews so definitely interested in this.) 

*Speaker system - JBL CS6100BG High-Performance Complete 6-Piece Home Theater Speaker System with Brackets *it retails at $700 (subwoofer is not working)
*
*
*Receiver - Denon AVR1912**-*discontinued but on eBay for $399 (the front left speaker output has low volume)


I am just looking for what I should do. My thoughts are get the projector and the Receiver from LL and use the RCA system I have access to.



*

*


----------



## F12Bwth

RCA made crap systems. Mostly Home Theater in a Box units. I would Consider the JBL's or building up from a 2.0 if you don't have the budget for it all right now.


----------



## hondakilla98

I'm getting flickering. The image is clear and doesn't change, It's like the brightness jumps up and down. I have 2400 hours on my 4th epson bulb. Most of the others have made it 3000+ hours. Is the bulb dying?


----------



## doughman

*400 hours. Is that all?*

My almost 3 year old 8350 began making a grinding noise at start up 2 weeks ago. It would grind but then work fine.......until Monday. It starts but before the lamp turns on it goes to double red LEDs indicating catastrophic problem which requires a call to Epson. I'm thinking auto iris. It's a year out of warranty with about 400 hours. I opened it up and the auto iris is fine. Anyone have any ideas? I've been reading and find people talking about a $1000 optical engine fix. I suppose $3 per hour is cheap entertainment but I was hoping for more.


----------



## MississippiMan

curtlots said:


> I always hold your opinion in high regard MMan! If you have a particular lamp you recommend, I'm willing to give it one more try.


No matter what, every lamp can be a crap shoot. So I chose a Company that has 6 months warranty...5 months minimum: Jumpin' Horny Toads! They are getting silly inexpensive!


http://www.amazon.com/ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Compatible-Replacement-EMP-TW3800/dp/B00IWKQD42

http://www.amazon.com/Compatible-EPSON-PowerLite-8350-Replacement/dp/B007LOWIQW



.........and I always by Amazon Prime so I have immediate 30 Day NQA return / replacement from the get-go....just in case.

....and no matter what.......NEVER purchase any Lamp that does not bother to list their Warranty period...A Prime or not.


----------



## curtlots

MississippiMan said:


> No matter what, every lamp can be a crap shoot. So I chose a Company that has 6 months warranty...5 months minimum: Jumpin' Horny Toads! They are getting silly inexpensive!
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/ELPLP49-V13H010L49-Compatible-Replacement-EMP-TW3800/dp/B00IWKQD42
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Compatible-EPSON-PowerLite-8350-Replacement/dp/B007LOWIQW
> 
> 
> 
> .........and I always by Amazon Prime so I have immediate 30 Day NQA return / replacement from the get-go....just in case.
> 
> ....and no matter what.......NEVER purchase any Lamp that does not bother to list their Warranty period...A Prime or not.


Yes, good advise as always. I am an Amazon Prime member and put it to good use. I truly feel sorry for the UPS man who is constantly making trips up my 650' driveway that's narrow, and uphill most of the way. And then there's winter... 

Just placed my order for the "F1" lamp. Lots of mixed feedback, but that seems to be typical. Thanks.


----------



## M.T.Nest

I am wondering whether a locally available used 8350 and motorized 109" Elite motorized screen might be a good interim solution for our theater room until some future date when I finally have time and money to build a screen wall with AT screen and buy a new projector. 

What I hope to learn is how a used 8350 in good condition stacks up against current projector models, what new models I should be comparing it to, and how much it might be worth. So far I've read the first twelve pages of this thread, and I'll continue to read more, but I don't think I'll have time to read the whole thing before a decision is required.

We're in the middle of what is unfortunately turning out to be a 5+ year, multi-phase Home Theater build.

I don't expect to ever have the funds (or the WAF) for anything close to the bleeding edge of projector technology, but eventually I would like to have something capable of great PQ on as wide an AT screen as practical across the 16.5' front wall of our 22' x 16.5' light controlled space.

Because our project funding got reallocated to bail out a family member (financially, not from jail), we've moved our 65" Panasonic TC-P65GT50 plasma display into our theater room. I'm very happy with the PQ of the plasma, but it's clearly not big enough to provide a theater-like experience to even the front row of seats. We currently have two rows of 3, plus a huge Love Sac (Don't call it a bean bag!) plus two low-rise Luna chairs at the front of the room for overflow (kid) viewers. There will eventually be a "Cinebar" on the riser behind the second row, too, which will seat four people on bar stools.

We'd been monitoring ads for used theater seats, hoping to find something more comfortable with decent lumbar support, because my wife can't get comfortable in any of the seats we have currently. We came across a Craigslist ad for a "complete home theater system", including a three seat curved seating unit that we hope to buy to replace the three individual chairs that currently make up our front row. Our current curved three seat theater sofa is relegated to the riser as our second row, because it's uncomfortable. 

The seller would prefer to sell his entire system as a package, including speakers, AVR, projector and screen. He says he'll be willing to break it up into audio (AVR, Blu Ray player, and Speakers), video (projector and screen), and seating if he doesn't sell the whole shebang in the next couple of weeks. he definitely doesn't want to sell everything individually.

We watched about 30 minutes of Avatar on the system while we were test-sitting the seats. We found the projected image definitely watchable, but somewhat dim, possibly because of the lack of light control in the room or due to projector settings. 

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

Kevin


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## MississippiMan

It's all about how much the PJ costs...separately or in a package.

You didn't state screen size, so that cannot figure into any current advice.

List it all, and his price / prices and you'll get the advice you seek.


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## Ftoast

M.T.Nest said:


> I am wondering whether a locally available used 8350 and motorized 109" Elite motorized screen might be a good interim solution for our theater room until some future date when I finally have time and money to build a screen wall with AT screen and buy a new projector.


Assuming you don't have the time right now to build a quick spandex screen (which should only cost $150-200 to build at 135"+), a 128" tab-tension can be as low as ~$500 while a cheapo rollup can be $100 (if you're getting a rollup that isn't tab-tensioned, you might as well get one that's cheap enough to be disposable).
Is projecting on a wall a workable temporary solution until you build the big AT screen?
An $8 flat/matte painted wall will beat a wavy used rollup any day.

A brand new, with lamp and full warranty Epson 8345/8350 is ~$850.
A brighter Benq w1070/1075 ~$700, hc1200 ~$900, Epson 3000 $1000-1100, or next level of contrast Panasonic ae8000 ~$1500.

^^^all of these options will be brighter than the 8350 even with a fresh lamp, which can come in handy when you're hoping to fill a large AcousticTransparent screen.

The 8350's also tended to chew through lamps suspiciously fast, so figure in the cost of a replacement lamp along with the used price they're offering. 
If the used PJ with no warranty and additional lamp price is somewhere near the ballpark of a new PJ at $650...buying new would be an obviously safer choice.

A multiple row theater is also hard to imagine being at all happy with a 109" screen.
Something closer to 10-12ft-wide would be a much better fit for the room.


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## M.T.Nest

MississippiMan said:


> It's all about how much the PJ costs...separately or in a package.
> 
> You didn't state screen size, so that cannot figure into any current advice.
> 
> List it all, and his price / prices and you'll get the advice you seek.


Sorry, MississippiMan. I didn't get a price from the seller until this morning for just the projector/mount/screen. He was trying hard to sell everything together, probably for convenience.

He's asking $1600 for the projector/screen/mount plus the seating. We'd already agreed on $800 for the seating, so that's an additional $800 for the projector, screen, mount, and 25' HDMI cable.

The screen is a motorized 109" Elite (see my first line above ;^) with remote. I don't have model number info, unfortunately.

I should have mentioned that we live in the Anchorage, Alaska area. This is significant because used home theater equipment isn't readily available here. Because of the assumption of high shipping costs, it's often hard to find a seller in the lower 48 states willing to ship here, even though the actual costs aren't usually any higher than shipping from one coast to the other, or shipping to a rural location a couple of states away.

I'll need to do more comparison shopping before pulling the trigger on this deal, for sure.

Kevin


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## M.T.Nest

Ftoast said:


> Assuming you don't have the time right now to build a quick spandex screen (which should only cost $150-200 to build at 135"+), a 128" tab-tension can be as low as ~$500 while a cheapo rollup can be $100 (if you're getting a rollup that isn't tab-tensioned, you might as well get one that's cheap enough to be disposable).
> Is projecting on a wall a workable temporary solution until you build the big AT screen?
> An $8 flat/matte painted wall will beat a wavy used rollup any day.
> 
> A brand new, with lamp and full warranty Epson 8345/8350 is ~$850.
> A brighter Benq w1070/1075 ~$700, hc1200 ~$900, Epson 3000 $1000-1100, or next level of contrast Panasonic ae8000 ~$1500.
> 
> ^^^all of these options will be brighter than the 8350 even with a fresh lamp, which can come in handy when you're hoping to fill a large AcousticTransparent screen.
> 
> The 8350's also tended to chew through lamps suspiciously fast, so figure in the cost of a replacement lamp along with the used price they're offering.
> If the used PJ with no warranty and additional lamp price is somewhere near the ballpark of a new PJ at $650...buying new would be an obviously safer choice.
> 
> A multiple row theater is also hard to imagine being at all happy with a 109" screen.
> Something closer to 10-12ft-wide would be a much better fit for the room.


Thank you FToast. I'll check out those other models for comparison.

I agree that 109" will not be very immersive, especially for 2nd and 3rd row viewers. it'll be a big improvement over the current 65" plasma, though. It would also be a bit closer than the current display, which is mounted in an 8' bumped out section of the room you can see at the front of the room--situated under the main floor's chimney.

I hope to eventually build a "false" screen wall with acoustically transparent screen about where the dotted lines are in the drawing. I hope to also wall off the opening toward the daylight basement entryway and do sound isolation work, which may decrease the room dimensions by a few inches if we use the double drywall + Green Glue technique that seems very popular in the Dedicated Theater Design & Construction forum area.

Unfortunately, it's going to be a while before we get to that project. Buying this used equipment would be a quick and dirty way to get a bigger displayed image right away. It also has the advantage of higher than usual WAF for A/V purchases at our house, since it was my wife who found this deal and apparently is considering it as a Fathers' Day idea. 

The lamp consumption info is exactly the sort of info I'd hoped to learn on here. I'm still paying for replacement lamps for a Mitsubishi 65" RPTV I handed down to my daughter's family. I had that set in our man cave for six or more years on the original bulb. Her family goes through two per year, putting many more hours on the set than I ever did.

So now I'm mainly trying to figure out whether this is a good deal at $800. I could offer the seller less, of course...I don't think anyone is beating down his door. 

Thanks again for your help!

Kevin


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## Andrew Hornfeck

Personally the $800 seems reasonable for the used 8350, screen, mount & HDMI cable. How used is the PJ in terms of hours on the unit and bulb (if it's a 2nd, or 3rd)? I see a motorized Elite on Walmart for under $300 and it's only 'valuable' if you plan to use it, or resell it later. What about the entire shebang -- what about the AVR/speakers & sub? They seem to have left the deal?


I don't think you can go wrong with the Epson. And if your WAF is up don't sour her gift! Just be ready for replacement bulbs every 2,200 hours or so at $350/each.


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## M.T.Nest

Andrew Hornfeck said:


> Personally the $800 seems reasonable for the used 8350, screen, mount & HDMI cable. How used is the PJ in terms of hours on the unit and bulb (if it's a 2nd, or 3rd)? I see a motorized Elite on Walmart for under $300 and it's only 'valuable' if you plan to use it, or resell it later. What about the entire shebang -- what about the AVR/speakers & sub? They seem to have left the deal?
> 
> 
> I don't think you can go wrong with the Epson. And if your WAF is up don't sour her gift! Just be ready for replacement bulbs every 2,200 hours or so at $350/each.


Hi Andrew,

I agree that the $800 is probably reasonable, but what I'm concerned with is how happy I'm going to be with this setup and for how long. One question is how long will we live with it before upgrading. On one hand, there are lots of better performing screens and PJ's out now, but it's a running gag over on the Theater Design forum that theater progress always grinds to a halt once a projector is hung.

One advantage of this set is that although a 109" screen definitely isn't the desired end state, we can hang this motorized screen in front of our current display, and in case of bulb failure or if I want to watch something in 3D I can raise the screen and watch it on the plasma. 

On the other hand, it would seem silly not to either repurpose the plasma in another room or sell it. It's under extended warranty and is still in perfect condition. PQ is amazing. I suggested to my wife that we should use it to replace the 50" plasma in "her" living room, but she doesn't want a bigger TV in there. I can't wrap my head around not wanting a bigger display, especially since when you consider how much wider the bezel is on "her" seven or eight year old plasma. The 65" set isn't that much wider, and it's much thinner. Oh well...

As for the audio gear that is being sold with this projector, I was never really considering the AVR/Blu Ray player/speakers part of the deal because I already have a better AVR (Denon AVR-X4000), and his Paradigm speakers, while nice, probably aren't a big enough upgrade (if any) over my current B&W's to make it worth while. Plus, his system is only 5.1 and mine is 7.1. One exception is the subwoofer. I'm not thrilled with our B&W sub, but a DIY sub (or two) can be built for less money that would blow either his or my sub away.

I've arranged with the seller to visit again this weekend to test the projector more thoroughly. When we were there before, I was focused 99% on the seating, having been under the impression that the projector was four or five years old, and not being thrilled at the PQ. The seller's going to address the light control issue today by blocking the room's one window, and we'll play with the projector settings (take it out of Eco mode to start) to see how good a picture we can get.My room is flat black and grey, while his is a cream color. I'm sure that would help once it's in our house.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to best set up or test this projector, please let me know. Early in this thread I read a recommendation for Art Feierman's settings. I'll search for those, too. I've only made it to page 16 or so in this thread. I'm sure there's loots of good info further in.

Andrew, you mentioned $300 for a bulb. Is that an OEM bulb at a local dealer? I think I've found what seem to be genuine Epson bulbs on Amazon for around $100. I'll happily research bulbs more on here and elsewhere, but do you know of a problem with those type of bulbs? $300 seem a bit steep.

The current bulb has less than 375 hours on it, which should be a plus. I don't know what quality of bulb it is, though.

Thanks for your input. It's great to hear from everyone.

Kevin


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## Andrew Hornfeck

I'd have to have a CLEAR endorsement to buy anything but an OEM replacement... it was $350 I mentioned through B&H Photo as my vendor. If you find my posts you'll realize Epson not only sent me a refurb unit to 'fix' my Auto-Iris issue within warranty, but when that unit's bulb got dim with less than 2,000 hours they sent me a replacement as a 1-time 'courtesy'. I prefer to call it 'potentially mis-leading advertising' when they advertise 4,000 hour bulb-life and mine was less than half of that. 


So you could sell the 'new' A/V equipment and recoup some of the last $800, right? Seems like this 'buy' is rather sweet. I don't think the PJ itself ages with time. Meaning, that the LCD panels go bad -- although there was a recent post where a guy had a refurb that had a hue he couldn't account for, they sent him a different unit to address the issue. I'd say as long as the picture is bright, clear and no dust blobs you should get several years-worth of service! THAT goes a long way on your WAF, her having found this deal for you, and can place any upgrading of the PJ a couple years down the road. 


You say 109", is that width or diagonal? I throw 124" diagonal and sit at 14' however "involved" that places me it's good. My buddy is doing 144" at 14' and loves it. The 109" as diagonal will be brighter (higher ft-lambert) which you may like even more... I'm just using a painted wall for my screen, and the room is 16' x 24' with flat black ceiling, acoustic walls of black and burgundy cloth w/dark grey carpeting. The image is sharp, clear and I too run Cinema mode in my 'cave' with no windows. My buddy w/the 144" uses blinds to dim his room and runs Living Room to impact brighter whites -- he's still using his tan-painted walls! As you said, his interest to paint the wall white, add a frame and dress it all up dwindled once the PJ and speakers were 'functional' DOH!!


If you were to pass on the buy, what would you buy? A new Epson is in the $800 range although it _would_ have a 2-year warranty. Then you'd have to rig a temp screen, or paint a wall. The mount could be a Universal in the $75 range... it just seems to me if the PJ is solid the deal seems to get you through a couple of years and dabble your toes in the "foot-sized" (diagonal) screens: "real men measure their screens in _feet _(not inches)"


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## M.T.Nest

*Leaning Toward Purchasing*



Andrew Hornfeck said:


> I'd have to have a CLEAR endorsement to buy anything but an OEM replacement... it was $350 I mentioned through B&H Photo as my vendor. If you find my posts you'll realize Epson not only sent me a refurb unit to 'fix' my Auto-Iris issue within warranty, but when that unit's bulb got dim with less than 2,000 hours they sent me a replacement as a 1-time 'courtesy'. I prefer to call it 'potentially mis-leading advertising' when they advertise 4,000 hour bulb-life and mine was less than half of that.
> 
> 
> So you could sell the 'new' A/V equipment and recoup some of the last $800, right? Seems like this 'buy' is rather sweet. I don't think the PJ itself ages with time. Meaning, that the LCD panels go bad -- although there was a recent post where a guy had a refurb that had a hue he couldn't account for, they sent him a different unit to address the issue. I'd say as long as the picture is bright, clear and no dust blobs you should get several years-worth of service! THAT goes a long way on your WAF, her having found this deal for you, and can place any upgrading of the PJ a couple years down the road.
> 
> You say 109", is that width or diagonal? I throw 124" diagonal and sit at 14' however "involved" that places me it's good. My buddy is doing 144" at 14' and loves it. The 109" as diagonal will be brighter (higher ft-lambert) which you may like even more... I'm just using a painted wall for my screen, and the room is 16' x 24' with flat black ceiling, acoustic walls of black and burgundy cloth w/dark grey carpeting. The image is sharp, clear and I too run Cinema mode in my 'cave' with no windows. My buddy w/the 144" uses blinds to dim his room and runs Living Room to impact brighter whites -- he's still using his tan-painted walls! As you said, his interest to paint the wall white, add a frame and dress it all up dwindled once the PJ and speakers were 'functional' DOH!!
> 
> If you were to pass on the buy, what would you buy? A new Epson is in the $800 range although it _would_ have a 2-year warranty. Then you'd have to rig a temp screen, or paint a wall. The mount could be a Universal in the $75 range... it just seems to me if the PJ is solid the deal seems to get you through a couple of years and dabble your toes in the "foot-sized" (diagonal) screens: "real men measure their screens in _feet _(not inches)"


I think we're going to buy the PJ/Screen/Mount/25' HDMI cable and the seating. Asking price for those items is $1600...maybe he'll take a little less. Price for these items plus AVR, Blu-Ray player, and speakers was $3K. 

Here's the way the ad presented the deal:

Entire system: $3K, including:

Part 1: 
3 Seat curved leather reclining theater seating

Part 2:
Epson 8350
Elite 109" motorized screen with remote
25' HDMI cable

Part 3:
OnkyoTX-NR609 AVR
Paradigm PDR 12 sub
Paradigm Dipole ADP surrounds
Paradigm CC370 v2 Center
Paradigm Monitor 9 v2 L&R
Sony BDP S550

We originally wanted to buy just the seating. We agreed on a price of $800, IF he wasn't able to sell it all together.

A day or so later, the seller offered to add in the PJ, screen, and HDMI cable for another $800, for a total of $1600.

To get the AVR and speakers I'd need to spend another $1400, or probably a bit less as I think he's willing to negotiate.

Anyway, I'm not interested in the audio gear. I don't think I could resell them easily and recoup the additional $1400.

I'm reading through the Projector Reviews article by Art Feierman on this unit from 2010. I know little about projectors, so the info is helpful. As for applicability to this purchase decision, if I can have a list of recommended settings while I'm demo-ing the PJ, I have a better shot at adjusting the projector's settings to hopefully get a better idea of how good an image this used PJ can produce. Even the seller agreed in an email that the brightness was not great on our last visit.

I don't know whether the 109" was diagonal or width. I'd assumed it was diagonal, but I could be wrong. I'll confirm which is is tomorrow or Sunday, whenever we get a chance to visit again.

As for what I'd buy if I pass this up, I imagine I will either wait for another similar opportunity, or until I have the time and $$ to get something I like better. A warranty would be nice. I don't need "the best", but I do like to have "very good", or "great". For a screen, I would probably build an AT screen from Falcon, based on what I've read in the Theater Builder forum, wide enough to go most of the way across 16' width of the room, hiding the front three speakers behind it. With only an 8" riser, we might be limited on how low to the floor the screen can go. I don't plan on building a new riser just to accommodate a slightly larger screen, but this one is stand alone, carpeted independently from the floor, so I can move it or remove it if necessary.

Of course there's nothing stopping me from buying this set, using it for a while, then building a bigger screen later. I could upgrade the projector then, or at some later time. That's probably the most likely path, at least the way I'm feeling right now. It all depends on how good we can get the picture quality when we demo the PJ this weekend.

Thanks again,
Kevin


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## Ftoast

You can buy a factory refurbished 8345/8350 with a new lamp and full 2year warranty for $549 from VisualApex.. A new 110" screen for $200, the last mount you'll ever need for $100, and a 25ft hdmi for $5-10.

$800 for a used one with no warranty is silly. By the time you've put over $50 into a non-OEM lamp gamble for the used one, the new stuff would've actually cost LESS.


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## MississippiMan

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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## Andrew Hornfeck

nxsfan said:


> Thanks guys, I called Visual Apex and we are rolling the dice a third time. They convinced me that I'm just unlucky. I liked this last projector in all other respects, so I will regret not trying to fix the blob if the new one has any issues.


So I DO remember this (previous page) from VisualApex! And YES, they have refurb packages for sale as well. This individual is now on his third unit because of defects and while I'm sure they'll work out a fair deal (Epson is very Customer Service oriented), how much time and is there an issue with our Alaska poster with regards to shipping charges and time he may avoid by purchasing a locally-owned unit? Sure, maybe VA has comparably-priced packages, but does that hold for Alaska? I plugged in 99501 and got this:

*ALERT! Shipping Restrictions ALERT!*
*Zip Code 99501 has some shipping restrictions.
*The products below can not ship to zip code.
*Remove or call to finalize order.

I think this availability issue is real for our Alaska friend - The PACKAGE can't be shipped, however, just the 8345-R can be shipped for a $50 fee above the $549 for the PJ. With that said, I'm not how sure VA would be to exchange several units as _this_ poster has experienced. What I'm saying is the distance could be a show-stopper for the 'deals' we all take for granted.


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## M.T.Nest

There are lots of things we routinely do in Alaska that you might consider silly. One of them is paying too much for too little. For example, items on the $.99 value menu at Wendy's cost $1.59 here. We're routinely told by sellers "Sorry, we only ship within the United States", even though actual shopping to the "greater Anchorage metropolitan area" probably costs less than to remote rural locations in the Lower 48.

I'm not saying you're wrong in this case, and I did post here to get just such advice.

But after our demo this evening with the room's window blacked out and varying the projector settings through the various picture modes and beyond, we were much more pleased with the PQ.

Two additional factors in our decision to go ahead were learning the unit is still under extended Best Buy warranty (hopefully transferrable), and even better, the seller agreeing to a $100 reduction. So $700 may not be a smoking deal by lower 48 standards, but its about as good a deal I'm likely to find in Alaska.

And then there's the WAF ;^)

Thanks again for all the great info. I'll probably be posting again once I'm trying to figure out the sorts of things that challenge first time PJ owners.


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## Ftoast

If it makes you feel any better, the dollar menu at Wendys and McDonalds is up to $1.49 here nowadays.


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## MississippiMan

Ftoast said:


> If it makes you feel any better, the dollar menu at Wendys and McDonalds is up to $1.49 here nowadays.



TMI.....TLI.


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## lsiberian

I've had the 8350 since December 2010. The OEM lamp lasted 2 years, the 70 dollar one lasted 18 months and the OSRAM lasted 13 months.. I'm picking up a couple of the 30 dollar prime lamps to give them a go. The Projector itself is still going strong despite all the abuse. At the very least I suggest you get a spare lamp.


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## M.T.Nest

lsiberian said:


> I've had the 8350 since December 2010. The OEM lamp lasted 2 years, the 70 dollar one lasted 18 months and the OSRAM lasted 13 months.. I'm picking up a couple of the 30 dollar prime lamps to give them a go. The Projector itself is still going strong despite all the abuse. At the very least I suggest you get a spare lamp.


Thank you.

The seller offered to split the cost of an $89 lamp sold on Amazon.

I countered, asking for an additional $50 reduction in price so that I can choose my own lamp in the future when I need one. Since the current lamp is only a few months old, I don't want a new lamp on hand using up its waranty while it's still new in the box.

At least for the immediate future, our plasma display will still be available whenever the projector is unavailable due to lamp or other malfunction.

Eventually I plan to upgrade to a permanently installed AT screen. At that point we'll repurpose the plasma elsewhere. By then I'll have a better idea which replacement lamp I prefer to buy, OEM or...?


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## Andrew Hornfeck

Don't kid yourself... once you SEE that 1080p 109" display you will N E V E R switch that ol' plasma display on again . You may think it's a good idea, having it around to prolong your bulb life, but at four times the viewing area you will justify watching the Epson as a few quarters-worth o' bulb per day, OR you'll just plain enjoy the easy viewing and put price out of your mind.


Let us know how it all works out in your place. A couple o' pics would be nice too.


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## Rakesh.S

joeags said:


> Ok, final post on this lamp (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TAGX0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Purchased and installed in November, 2013. I haven't had any issues with the bulb. Install was fine, everything worked right from the start. I noticed decreases in brightness at about the 1400 hour mark, where I moved up to Living Room mode. 2000 hour mark, I had to move up to Dynamic mode. 2100 hours, bulb is dead - I saw the flashing red light for the bulb on the projector, and replaced it at that time. Putting a new bulb in, and it just blows my mind how much the bulb had dimmed.
> 
> Still, for $62, I feel I received my money's worth. I had close to 1.5 years of usage out of the bulb. Color and brightness were fine. I had a quick trip to the US in December and would have purchased a second of the same bulb, but they had none with prime 2 day shipping, so purchased a glamps version instead (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQUWZ56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I'm perfectly happy with this bulb for the first 10 hours, and will see how it performs. Purchase price on this one was a whopping $38 at the time (December, 2014).


I just ordered the lamp from Projector Lamp Genie. Thanks for your post on this. I was very skeptical about aftermarket bulbs. I read through the reviews, and it appears that a lot of the negative reviews may be from people that ordered through a seller other than Projector Lamp Genie.

Keeping my fingers crossed that I get good performance. My OEM bulb has been running close to 2,000 hours and is now very dim.


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## andyoye

*Throw distance and screen size*

Does it matter if throw distance is 11' or 12.6' for a 110" diagonal screen for my basement room? Room can be pitch black as walls and ceiling is dark brown with no windows.

thank you in advance.


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## MississippiMan

andyoye said:


> Does it matter if throw distance is 11' or 12.6' for a 110" diagonal screen for my basement room? Room can be pitch black as walls and ceiling is dark brown with no windows.
> 
> thank you in advance.


The only real difference is in lumen output delivered to the screen, and subsequently how many foot lambert of reflected brightness you'll get determined by the gain factor ofr the screen itself.

At 11' the 8350 estimated at 26 fl on a 1.0 gain surface. At 12'-6" it drops to 20 fl at 1.0 gain.

In a totally darkened room with the effective light control you state you have, in Normal lamp mode you'd see only a small difference.

However in Low Lamp mode, and/or as the Lamp dims with age, every Lumen delivered to the screen counts.


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## nxsfan

Epson HC8345 Number 3.









Pretty dismayed how bad the third one is. I don't want to criticize VA; I've asked for a refund, will see what they say.

Update: Visual Apex provided a full refund and were professional and courteous the whole time. While I will personally never buy another Epson Refurb, I would very happily buy a new projector from them if the price was right.


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## andyoye

..


----------



## Kilgore

nxsfan said:


> Epson HC8345 Number 3.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty dismayed how bad the third one is. I don't want to criticize VA; I've asked for a refund, will see what they say.


Have you tried dealing with Epson directly instead?


----------



## andyoye

MississippiMan said:


> andyoye said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it matter if throw distance is 11' or 12.6' for a 110" diagonal screen for my basement room? Room can be pitch black as walls and ceiling is dark brown with no windows.
> 
> thank you in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> The only real difference is in lumen output delivered to the screen, and subsequently how many foot lambert of reflected brightness you'll get determined by the gain factor ofr the screen itself.
> 
> At 11' the 8350 estimated at 26 fl on a 1.0 gain surface. At 12'-6" it drops to 20 fl at 1.0 gain.
> 
> In a totally darkened room with the effective light control you state you have, in Normal lamp mode you'd see only a small difference.
> 
> However in Low Lamp mode, and/or as the Lamp dims with age, every Lumen delivered to the screen counts.
Click to expand...

Sorry for my ignorance for the tech jargon you have used...given light is controlled.. Which distance is better or it's noticeable? Both distances are ok for 110" screen?


----------



## Kilgore

andyoye said:


> Sorry for my ignorance for the tech jargon you have used...given light is controlled.. Which distance is better or it's noticeable? Both distances are ok for 110" screen?


Either will work, but closer is better (more lumens).


----------



## M.T.Nest

*Long HDMI Cable Recommendations?*

I've spent a little time searching the forum and will continue to do so, but does anyone have a recommendation for specific HDMI cables, preverably available through Monoprice, to use with the 8350?

A 25' cable came with my (used) PJ, but I think I might need something closer to 40' or even 50' to avoid a surface mount conduit across the ceiling from the front of the room to the PJ.

If there are other considerations, such as what version of HDMI is supported by the 8350, avoiding certain products, or needing an HDMI extender, I appreciate any suggestions in those areas as well.

Thanks!

Kevin


----------



## Tesla1856

M.T.Nest said:


> I've spent a little time searching the forum and will continue to do so, but does anyone have a recommendation for specific HDMI cables, preverably available through Monoprice, to use with the 8350?
> 
> A 25' cable came with my (used) PJ, but I think I might need something closer to 40' or even 50' to avoid a surface mount conduit across the ceiling from the front of the room to the PJ.
> 
> If there are other considerations, such as what version of HDMI is supported by the 8350, avoiding certain products, or needing an HDMI extender, I appreciate any suggestions in those areas as well.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Kevin



Here is my long run. Notice I use cables with known heavy gauge wires inside. Pretty sure that is the key to using long cables. Better to "over build" your run than it be "not enough". I did this (years ago) and not a single glitch/sparkle/etc ever ... all from MonoPrice.



Final 57ft HDMI chain to Epson 8350:
Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI AVR
2ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0) (MonoPrice # 5312)
45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable
HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater (MonoPrice # 2849)
12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Net
Epson Home Cinema 8350 Projector
18 ft. from wall/screen = (96" or 8ft diag. image) 

I had the same decision to make at install time. I went with simpler HDMI (no Redmere, etc.). The 45ft cable (notice gauge) also worked by itself (onkyo to epson) but I needed to get a little further and also split to plasma.
The HDMI switch is really just being used as a splitter (clone signal) for the plasma. MonoPrice has a smaller/cheaper HDMI 1.3 splitter-only box but since this one works, I never got around to trying it. Not sure if HDMI switch is doing anything to stabilize signal or not (before it heads-out on long run). I have a feeling it doesn't (but doesn't diminish signal either).
My projector is in the back of the room on the counter. Since you have to go up-and-down-walls ... this chews-up some cable length. This setup allows me to stop the 45ft-er at the wall. If I ever ceiling mount mine, I'll just pull the 45 ft cable back into ceiling and it will easily reach the ceiling mount (with some to spare). The final 12ft. extension won't be needed any more. The HDMI Active Equalizer is passive (non-powered) and really just a fancy female-to-female adapter (with a little extra insurance). Pretty sure I tried it with a plain adapter and it worked also. The 45ft cable is over 0.50 inches in diameter. Needless to say, it doesn't bend well.


----------



## pastb

*Help. I have the exact same problem. What is the fix?????*



Protonus said:


> *Questions for those very knowledgeable with this projectors, have ran them with the covers off, or have repaired them:*
> 
> 0.) I want to confirm the following is normal startup procedure. *Anyone could (please!) try this if they run the projector with the lamp out, and the cover switch depressed* (the cross shaped opening over a switch that the lamp door pushes on. A screwdriver works.):
> A.) The front black, exhaust fan (looking down at the lamp well, with lens in front) doesn't run on startup. I believe it probably starts up later once the bulb gets up to temp.
> 
> B.) The auto iris is fully opened from whatever position it started in and left open
> 
> C.) The cinema filter slides back and forth once, to the end of it's travel (limit switches).
> 
> 1.) Has anyone found a service manual for this model? Or at least a parts list?
> 
> 2.) At the front left corner of the lamp well (looking top down, lens at front), where the lamp sits, there is a *small (1" tall, maybe 1/4" wide?), white-ish ceramic (I think?) electrical component with two white leads*. The front of this component is exposed, meaning, it can be seen from the inside of the lamp well. The wires run to the main switches. I believe it to be a thermal breaker, or thermal switch, can anyone confirm?
> 
> 3.) *My projector is doing the following:* It turns on, lamp is energized/lit, and the word Epson becomes projected. All fans startup, except the large front black exhaust fan in front of the lamp, that blows out the front. The auto iris opens up to full aperture. The cinema filter slides back and forth once in each direction (hits the limits switches). Shortly after (about 5 seconds after the unit is turned on), the lamp shuts off, the fans ramp to full speed, and the Temp light begins flashing red on / off once a second. Fans run for ~1 minute, then it powers down. It now does this every single time. It was doing it intermittently for a few months, on startup - and very once in a while, it would shut off during use (but then usually could be turned right back on). It only started doing it after I replaced a lamp that failed catastrophically (exploded).
> 
> For these reasons, I'm thinking that the component I named is a thermal breaker, that is tripped and thinks it's overheating. And that it now failed completely. My auto iris and cinema filter work just fine from what I see.



I have the exact same problem. PLEASE OS IT A DO IT MYSELF FIX AND IF SO WHAT IS THE FIX AND WHERE DO I FPGET THE PARTS??


----------



## Protonus

pastb said:


> I have the exact same problem. PLEASE OS IT A DO IT MYSELF FIX AND IF SO WHAT IS THE FIX AND WHERE DO I FPGET THE PARTS??


I already answered these questions in this thread. Take a look at the posts I made _after_ the one you just quoted. It describes in detail what the problem is and how I fixed it.


----------



## Protonus

doughman said:


> My almost 3 year old 8350 began making a grinding noise at start up 2 weeks ago. It would grind but then work fine.......until Monday. It starts but before the lamp turns on it goes to double red LEDs indicating catastrophic problem which requires a call to Epson. I'm thinking auto iris. It's a year out of warranty with about 400 hours. I opened it up and the auto iris is fine. Anyone have any ideas? I've been reading and find people talking about a $1000 optical engine fix. I suppose $3 per hour is cheap entertainment but I was hoping for more.


That sounds like you have a fan that died. Check out my posts on page 302 about this exact issue and how I fixed it.


----------



## dude2006

curtlots said:


> You don't need to disconnect any ribbons. The three ribbons that are mentioned in the directions, I believe are the connectors to the three color LCD panels that collect the dust. It's just a matter of carefully placing the straw from the can of air in and around the openings where these ribbons enter the chassis of the projector.


This might be a dumb question but is it necessary (or even possible) to spray both sides of each LCD panel, or is spraying the front of each panel sufficient?

Thanks.


----------



## SilentJ20

> I had a single chip DLP, 720p, Sharp DT-510 that I absolutely loved (that was a freak of a projector too, tons of zoom capability)...
> 
> ...That projector was also quiet, light, and tiny. And the black levels were better than my Epson too, even without an auto iris. DLP generally has better blacks. I miss my DLP's blacks.


Can anyone confirm this comparison to the DT-510? It's what I'm planning to upgrade from and everything I had read lead me to believe that the 8350/8345 would be an upgrade with better blacks and quieter fan noise.


----------



## Ftoast

SilentJ20 said:


> Can anyone confirm this comparison to the DT-510? It's what I'm planning to upgrade from and everything I had read lead me to believe that the 8350/8345 would be an upgrade with better blacks and quieter fan noise.


If you want a projector that gives a noticeable deeper black without completely depending on the dynamic iris as a crutch, the Panasonic ae8000 may still be available for $1500, the Epson 5025ub is around $1750, and the Sony hw40 is often on sale for $2000 (occasionally $1650 +square trade warranty price).

There aren't any cheaper options without gambling on a used model or possibly finding something like the 8350/8345 that can only have deeper blacks when the dynamic iris is on and only during overall dark scenes.


----------



## Protonus

dude2006 said:


> This might be a dumb question but is it necessary (or even possible) to spray both sides of each LCD panel, or is spraying the front of each panel sufficient?


I'm not sure I'd recommend spraying directly onto the LCD's at all, especially with compressed air cans, as they can spray liquid cyanogen and freeze components. The LCD's aren't the most robust things, and, we have no convergence adjustment on this projector, which means if you misalign one of the LCD's in the process or move it at all, your convergence will be wrong.

I would do as the person you quoted recommends, just spray down thru the slots in the motherboard where the LCD connectors are, from the top. After all you're talking about simply removing dust. Just moving air thru that cavity will dislodge a lot of the dust. Doing anything further is going to require removing the motherboard, which, if you're not comfortable repairing modern electronics, will be intimidating to say the lest. When you spray down that slot, use a straw, and make sure the can is upright, so that it doesn't spray any liquid out.

Or better yet, use a powered air duster like this one (I have this one, and love it. It's a must have IMHO if you own a projector or maintain PC's, great for cleaning filters or anything else): http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW


----------



## Protonus

SilentJ20 said:


> Can anyone confirm this comparison to the DT-510? It's what I'm planning to upgrade from and everything I had read lead me to believe that the 8350/8345 would be an upgrade with better blacks and quieter fan noise.


I thought that quote you (mis)quoted (wasn't attributed to me) sounded familiar... searched, yeah, that's what I wrote lol.

I stand by my original comment, but will expand on it for you. First, the positives. The Epson 8350 will be a big upgrade to your DT-510 largely because of it's resolution alone. 1080p is a huge step up from 720p especially if you throw your image close to the screen or throw a large image. This is the primary reason I upgraded. My primary use is gaming and movies, and in both of these things, the resolution increase is extremely noticeable. I went from noticeable screen door (visible pixel edges) at my primary seating, to none. 

It will also be an upgrade in terms of light thrown (the 8350 is a *light cannon) *it's one of the brightest projectors I've ever used, period. If you have great lighting control (no windows, all lights off except bias lighting, cave like enviroment) you will have no problem running this projector in Eco mode, and in Cinema mode with dynamic iris and so on, all of the time. If you have lots of light, you can crank up the settings and not care. 

It also has excellent color vibrancy (cartoons POP on this thing), and it is bit quieter than the DT-510 (much larger case.)

Now the negatives. First, black levels. They aren't as good on this as they are on the DT-510, or most DLP projectors in my experience. It definitely won't be an upgrade to your DT-510 in terms of black levels. To get good black levels out of this projector, you must run it in Cinema mode (darkest mode, uses the cinema filter for color correction, etc), and the auto iris on fast (or whatever they call it's most fidgety setting). You need excellent light control too. Then and only then, will it be close to your DT-510 for blacks. Unfortunately the auto iris only really helps when the scene is very dark across most of the image. When some of the image is bright and other parts are dark, that's when you're most likely to notice the disparity in blacks and that the iris isn't helping. 

The color vibrancy and brightness of this projector can make you forget this problem entirely, especially if you're watching bright, colorful things. If you are watching colorful bright movies like say, Bugs Life on this, you'll be stunned with how great it looks, and you might think these comments nonsensical. If you then switch to a dark, gritty movie like say Fight Club, well, that's when you'll notice the lack of blacks, and they can be really annoying. 

My screen is a WA DW screen, and is very much a pure white screen. I built it for my DT-510 knowing it had good blacks, but not great brightness. If I was to build this screen again for my 8350, I would have gone with a WA FG screen, or some other gray screen. A gray screen would help a ton here with black levels, and the reduction in brightness wouldn't matter because this projector is very, very bright. This just goes to show how important it is to match your screen to your projector.

Other not great things about the 8350: It's big. Very big compared to most DLP's, and the lens is quite a bit to the side, so an existing shelf mount may not work for you. And rather heavy. It's weight can give you issues ceiling mounting it in an environment where the ceiling may move or vibrate. 

It's got lens shift in both directions (yay!) but it's not powered (boo!) and the silly manual dials they use don't lock. Which means with time, your image can shift and you might have to fiddle with the knobs to put it back in the ideal spot. They really needed locks on the controls or tighter adjustment knobs. This could be a real annoying problem if the top of your projector isn't easy to get to where you have it mounted/sitting). I find on average, about every week to two weeks, I've got to go and lift the image back up about a 1/2" or so. Worse, moving the image up or down tends to move it side to side slightly, which means you often have to fiddle both knobs to make a change in one intended direction. 

It's a 3 LCD (good!) but it has no convergence adjustment (bad!) which means these units are frequently at least a 1/2 to 1 pixel out of alignment on one or more of the LCD's out of the box, and you have no way of correcting that. Furthermore the convergence might be spot on in the center, but blur a bit out towards the edge. That's not a bad enough alignment to really be noticeable watching things, and most people would never care or notice, but it prevents this PJ from looking quite as sharp as it could (looks a bit "soft"). This is in stark contrast to your DT-510, which, being a single chip DLP, had no convergence - It's pixel edges were razor sharp defined (of course that also makes you notice it's lack of resolution more). Epson has a spec for how far out of alignment they have to be before they consider it worthy of warranty repair (it's somewhere in this thread) and I remember thinking it was a bit too far out for my taste (kind of like many "dead pixel" warranties that say you need a certain number of them before an LCD is bad).

You have probably read about dust blobs in this thread. It's a real issue. It wasn't an issue with your DT-510 because it's light engine is sealed, unlike an LCD like this. I ran my PJ with painters tape over every seam and opening I could seal for 2 years, and still got dust blobs within a few months of ownership. I believe like others, that the PJ will deposit dust already present inside the projector from manufacturing on the LCD's, resulting often in blobs. The blob are only very large pieces of dust, present in such a way that the focus of the lens shows them. If you in fact, try and focus on the dust instead, and use like a piece of paper in front of the projector, you'll see often times that the image is FULL of dust, like hundreds of dust particles, and it's just a few of them that you're seeing as blobs. Opening up the projector and dusting it off (as describe in my prior comment) often gets rid of them. Or it may create new ones. And bottom line is that they will eventually return because the projector isn't sealed.

I also had to change a fan in my projector, and one time a bulb blew and knocked one of my LCD's out of alignment for a few days (heat cycles eventually "snapped" it back into place I think). There are occasional failures of auto-iris, cinema filter, and so on. Most of these issues are documented and can be self repaired, but they're not "easy" fixes for most folks. I'm not sure I'd say this is the most reliable projector long term.

All in all, I'm still happy with my purchase, though there are days where that wasn't true. It is still a big upgrade to my DT-510, but I will likely look for a 3 chip DLP as my next projector, or an "ultra black" 3 LCD, or, a LED lit projector.


----------



## SilentJ20

Protonus said:


> I thought that quote you (mis)quoted (wasn't attributed to me) sounded familiar... searched, yeah, that's what I wrote lol.
> 
> I stand by my original comment, but will expand on it for you...


Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go more in depth. 

I have a fully light controlled room, and thus I do not need a light cannon. The main annoyance of the DT-510 is the (in my opinion) poor black levels, even on eco-mode and high-contrast iris. There's no black, more of a dark blue/grey that I see. I guess I need to go beyond the 8350 level to get what I want.


----------



## dude2006

Protonus said:


> I'm not sure I'd recommend spraying directly onto the LCD's at all, especially with compressed air cans, as they can spray liquid cyanogen and freeze components. The LCD's aren't the most robust things, and, we have no convergence adjustment on this projector, which means if you misalign one of the LCD's in the process or move it at all, your convergence will be wrong.
> 
> I would do as the person you quoted recommends, just spray down thru the slots in the motherboard where the LCD connectors are, from the top. After all you're talking about simply removing dust. Just moving air thru that cavity will dislodge a lot of the dust. Doing anything further is going to require removing the motherboard, which, if you're not comfortable repairing modern electronics, will be intimidating to say the lest. When you spray down that slot, use a straw, and make sure the can is upright, so that it doesn't spray any liquid out.
> 
> Or better yet, use a powered air duster like this one (I have this one, and love it. It's a must have IMHO if you own a projector or maintain PC's, great for cleaning filters or anything else): http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW


Thanks, you raise some very good points including the potential to mess up the convergence, which as far as i can tell currently is pretty good on mine. I'll check out this blower, makes sense as opposed to the dusters (and seems like it would be really helpful to clean out my PC)


----------



## Protonus

SilentJ20 said:


> Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go more in depth.
> 
> I have a fully light controlled room, and thus I do not need a light cannon. The main annoyance of the DT-510 is the (in my opinion) poor black levels, even on eco-mode and high-contrast iris. There's no black, more of a dark blue/grey that I see. I guess I need to go beyond the 8350 level to get what I want.


No problem. But yeah, if you don't think the DT-510 has enough blacks, you're really not going to like 8350 then.

That said, it sounds like you might want a gray screen. The DT-510's blacks are actually very good, for an entry level, digital projector. It sounds like you are expecting blacks like you'll get out of an old, analog, 3 CRT projector, which is just not going to happen on a digital projector unless you spend a ton of cash. Digital projectors in general, are sacrificing blacks for resolution and brightness/vibrance. 

May also want to try bias lighting (light behind the screen), as well as black velvet borders on your screen.

You might want to look into a higher end 3 DLP chip projector as the replacement.



dude2006 said:


> Thanks, you raise some very good points including the potential to mess up the convergence, which as far as i can tell currently is pretty good on mine. I'll check out this blower, makes sense as opposed to the dusters (and seems like it would be really helpful to clean out my PC)


Just be careful when you use it. It's very, very powerful. Have a good grip on it the first time you turn it on!


----------



## SilentJ20

Protonus said:


> No problem. But yeah, if you don't think the DT-510 has enough blacks, you're really not going to like 8350 then.
> 
> That said, it sounds like you might want a gray screen. The DT-510's blacks are actually very good, for an entry level, digital projector. It sounds like you are expecting blacks like you'll get out of an old, analog, 3 CRT projector, which is just not going to happen on a digital projector unless you spend a ton of cash. Digital projectors in general, are sacrificing blacks for resolution and brightness/vibrance.
> 
> May also want to try bias lighting (light behind the screen), as well as black velvet borders on your screen.
> 
> You might want to look into a higher end 3 DLP chip projector as the replacement.


You're the first person who has given me a good comparison of the DT-510 vs others, so I'm coming to new conclusions. Since most reasonably affordable projectors seem to put out so much light, I'll be looking into a gray screen. I'll also be trying to talk the wife into a budget that allows something in the epson "UB/ultra black" category or similar. 

Anyways, don't want to get too off topic in this thread. Thanks for the info.


----------



## terd

Hey guys,

I did a search and I've seen a few posts about green spots and multiple white spots, but I've got an issue with a single white spot.

I don't even know if I would call it a white spot, it's just more lit. Almost dead center, top third of the screen; it's like a little flashlight is shining there. It's like it's glowing.

It only happen on straight black screens, like on the no input screen or when HBO Go is loading. I've yet to notice during a movie scene that's dark. All that being said, I'd like to fix it possible. My warranty is up and even if it wasn't, all Epson ever did was send me other faulty projectors. This one held up for 2 months before I noticed this. 

Any idea why I'm having this white spot on my image?

Thanks.


----------



## M.T.Nest

M.T.Nest said:


> My room:


Please help me understand how to find the optimum throw distance for the 8350 for my 15' x 22'4" room. This is my first projector, and I really hope to get this right the first time.

How important is staying in the "green zone" using the Projector Central calculator? 

It looks as if they're recommending a throw distance of 14-18 feet for a 109" image to stay in the green zone. Moving the throw distance slider to below a 14' throw distances takes you into the red zone, "Recommended for image brightness for rooms with ambient light." When they say it that way, it seems kinda bad. 

But unless I'm misunderstanding the posts I've been reading here, experts on the forum such as MississippiMan seem to recommend a shorter throw distance to achieve optimum brightness. 

As I posted last month, I bought a used projector and 109" 16x9 Elite motorized screen with (I believe) 1.1 gain.

My first row viewing distance will be 11' plus or minus an inch or two depending on exact screen placement. The second row will be ~16', and if I can squeeze it in, an eventual third row "Cinebar" will be about 19 or 20'.

Light is pretty well controlled. Windows in the room have blackout curtains. There is some light coming from an adjacent space where we have not yet hung curtains over the daylight basement entry door and its side light window. We already have blackout curtains for that location, so that problem will soon be fixed. The screen wall and the first four feet of the side walls and ceiling are flat black (Valspar Cracked Pepper). The rest of the room is painted a flat medium gray (Valspar Vessel Gray). The carpet is black. All of the furniture is black. 

One concern is whether I would be happy with the 8350's brightness from the 14' throw distance range recommended by the Projector Central calculator.

Another consideration is that I'd like to preserve my option to upgrading to a wider, acoustically transparent screen sometime in the future without having to relocate the projector mount, run longer cables, etc. The AT screen would allow much better center speaker placement and a wider (130"?) image, but it would also shorten the viewing distance to the front row to about 9'. I'm concerned that might be too close for comfort for such a large screen.

I appreciate any suggestions you might have.


----------



## HTPC_Dude

terd said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I did a search and I've seen a few posts about green spots and multiple white spots, but I've got an issue with a single white spot.
> 
> I don't even know if I would call it a white spot, it's just more lit. Almost dead center, top third of the screen; it's like a little flashlight is shining there. It's like it's glowing.
> 
> It only happen on straight black screens, like on the no input screen or when HBO Go is loading. I've yet to notice during a movie scene that's dark. All that being said, I'd like to fix it possible. My warranty is up and even if it wasn't, all Epson ever did was send me other faulty projectors. This one held up for 2 months before I noticed this.
> 
> Any idea why I'm having this white spot on my image?
> 
> Thanks.


Do a search for dust blobs within the 8350 thread, you will find lots of info.


----------



## rakstr

So you mentioned basement and that typically means losing 6-10 inches on ceiling height. You also mentioned a riser which appears to be under your 14 foot mark (loss of another 6-8 inches??). You never showed/nor discussed the elevation view of your setup. You need to consider distance top to bottom for interference from seating/people and bottom of projector clearance as well as noise/"bump zone/WAF/...... Also the vertical relationship of the top/bottom of the screen to the center of the projector lens is important (just as left to right is which appears fine if you're going dead on center.

I have a rather small room and ended up mounting my P off center and lower to avoid all the things I mentioned above. for ME, I found the place closest to the screen for the maximum size I would want that was most out of the area of use while watching and least likely to be bumped/moved in general room use. That's right, it was a very subjective decision but planted in the data found at pages 13 and 25 here https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf

I thought I remembered that Epson had a placement program on their website when I installed mine but that was a few years ago. If you haven't looked, I'd do that as well.


M.T.Nest said:


> Please help me understand how to find the optimum throw distance for the 8350 for my 15' x 22'4" room. This is my first projector, and I really hope to get this right the first time.
> 
> How important is staying in the "green zone" using the Projector Central calculator?
> 
> It looks as if they're recommending a throw distance of 14-18 feet for a 109" image to stay in the green zone. Moving the throw distance slider to below a 14' throw distances takes you into the red zone, "Recommended for image brightness for rooms with ambient light." When they say it that way, it seems kinda bad.
> 
> But unless I'm misunderstanding the posts I've been reading here, experts on the forum such as MississippiMan seem to recommend a shorter throw distance to achieve optimum brightness.
> 
> As I posted last month, I bought a used projector and 109" 16x9 Elite motorized screen with (I believe) 1.1 gain.
> 
> My first row viewing distance will be 11' plus or minus an inch or two depending on exact screen placement. The second row will be ~16', and if I can squeeze it in, an eventual third row "Cinebar" will be about 19 or 20'.
> 
> Light is pretty well controlled. Windows in the room have blackout curtains. There is some light coming from an adjacent space where we have not yet hung curtains over the daylight basement entry door and its side light window. We already have blackout curtains for that location, so that problem will soon be fixed. The screen wall and the first four feet of the side walls and ceiling are flat black (Valspar Cracked Pepper). The rest of the room is painted a flat medium gray (Valspar Vessel Gray). The carpet is black. All of the furniture is black.
> 
> One concern is whether I would be happy with the 8350's brightness from the 14' throw distance range recommended by the Projector Central calculator.
> 
> Another consideration is that I'd like to preserve my option to upgrading to a wider, acoustically transparent screen sometime in the future without having to relocate the projector mount, run longer cables, etc. The AT screen would allow much better center speaker placement and a wider (130"?) image, but it would also shorten the viewing distance to the front row to about 9'. I'm concerned that might be too close for comfort for such a large screen.
> 
> I appreciate any suggestions you might have.


----------



## M.T.Nest

rakstr said:


> So you mentioned basement and that typically means losing 6-10 inches on ceiling height. You also mentioned a riser which appears to be under your 14 foot mark (loss of another 6-8 inches??). You never showed/nor discussed the elevation view of your setup. You need to consider distance top to bottom for interference from seating/people and bottom of projector clearance as well as noise/"bump zone/WAF/...... Also the vertical relationship of the top/bottom of the screen to the center of the projector lens is important (just as left to right is which appears fine if you're going dead on center.
> 
> I have a rather small room and ended up mounting my P off center and lower to avoid all the things I mentioned above. for ME, I found the place closest to the screen for the maximum size I would want that was most out of the area of use while watching and least likely to be bumped/moved in general room use. That's right, it was a very subjective decision but planted in the data found at pages 13 and 25 here https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf
> 
> I thought I remembered that Epson had a placement program on their website when I installed mine but that was a few years ago. If you haven't looked, I'd do that as well.


Thanks, Rakstr,

I should have addressed the vertical dimension. 

The ceiling in the space is eight feet high. The riser for the second row is seven inches high, built to ensure an unobstructed view of the current 65" plasma display. Because the riser is not attached to the floor, I can make it taller if necessary. Another option might be an additional inch or so tall mini riser just under the seats themselves. (I stole that last idea from BigMouthInDC over in the theater builder sub forum.

I did try the Epson projector calculator just the other day. Mostly I've seen references to the one I cited, though.


----------



## MississippiMan

M.T.Nest,

Furgitabowdt P.C.'s "Green Zone". It only shows what is to be considered a general rule that depends upon "all" the variables that exist between different PJs and their Focus / Lensing attributes, and Resolution. It makes no distinction except for Lumen output = Foot lambert as relates to Screen gain. In that respect it's just about giving one the mid-point between the brightest and dimmest image.

Now as far as Screens go, if you posses a Mfg AT screen whose weave or perforations are too obviously seen within a give seating distance, that itself might / would be a distinction to consider. And...unfortunately that has always been the case, forcing most to place seating at a distance that was further than desired to avoid the visual issues.

PJs with high Resolution do not introduce aberrations such as Morie nearly as much as low Resolution PJs do. PJs with pronounced SDE (Screen Door Effect) will create Morie much easier. All that means choosing wisely as far as your AT material is paramount.

It seems that for now, you don't have to worry about "AT" related issues, but down the road...you might. So here is the skinny for future proofing for up to 130" diagonal.

13' 9" Throw for the current 109" diagonal Opaque screen as well as the future 130" diagonal AT screen

A 130" diagonal screen is 9' 5" wide. If you build your AT Screen Wall from White over Silver Milliskin Spandex and your resulting gain is 0.85, you'll have 15 foot lambert of brightness. Your ratio of viewing distance to screen width will be just under 1:1

Now yes, that is close....but excessive gain / brightness will not be the issue. Your 2nd row will become the optimal row for those who do not like the "total immersion" experience, but what with the impeccably smooth, pristine image the Spandex will present, I'm betting some will actually fight for the Front Row seats.

PS...with the 8350's extreme Lens Shift range, if you choose the right Mount you can keep the overall drop from the ceiling down to 7" maximum. That leaves 7' 5" from the floor, and even with a 10" riser (recommended) that will leave 6' 5" height....plenty IMO.


----------



## M.T.Nest

MississippiMan said:


> M.T.Nest,
> 
> Furgitabowdt P.C.'s "Green Zone". It only shows what is to be considered a general rule that depends upon "all" the variables that exist between different PJs and their Focus / Lensing attributes, and Resolution. It makes no distinction except for Lumen output = Foot lambert as relates to Screen gain. In that respect it's just about giving one the mid-point between the brightest and dimmest image.
> 
> Now as far as Screens go, if you posses a Mfg AT screen whose weave or perforations are too obviously seen within a give seating distance, that itself might / would be a distinction to consider. And...unfortunately that has always been the case, forcing most to place seating at a distance that was further than desired to avoid the visual issues.
> 
> PJs with high Resolution do not introduce aberrations such as Morie nearly as much as low Resolution PJs do. PJs with pronounced SDE (Screen Door Effect) will create Morie much easier. All that means choosing wisely as far as your AT material is paramount.
> 
> It seems that for now, you don't have to worry about "AT" related issues, but down the road...you might. So here is the skinny for future proofing for up to 130" diagonal.
> 
> 13' 9" Throw for the current 109" diagonal Opaque screen as well as the future 130" diagonal AT screen
> 
> A 130" diagonal screen is 9' 5" wide. If you build your AT Screen Wall from White over Silver Milliskin Spandex and your resulting gain is 0.85, you'll have 15 foot lambert of brightness. Your ratio of viewing distance to screen width will be just under 1:1
> 
> Now yes, that is close....but excessive gain / brightness will not be the issue. Your 2nd row will become the optimal row for those who do not like the "total immersion" experience, but what with the impeccably smooth, pristine image the Spandex will present, I'm betting some will actually fight for the Front Row seats.
> 
> PS...with the 8350's extreme Lens Shift range, if you choose the right Mount you can keep the overall drop from the ceiling down to 7" maximum. That leaves 7' 5" from the floor, and even with a 10" riser (recommended) that will leave 6' 5" height....plenty IMO.


Thanks very much, MississippiMan.

I left out the info on my ceiling mount. I don't know what brand or model this is, but the seller was very proud of it. It measures 10" from the base to the projector case.










Please excuse the poor PQ. I went down to measure the mount during my lunch break and decided to snap this picture with my phone while I was at it. 

I guess what I really need to decide is whether I should mount the PJ far enough back to support a larger screen later, sacrificing brightness now, or mount it at an optimally close throw distance now and relocate it later whenever the time comes to upgrade the screen. 

Regarding the concern about being too close for comfortable viewing, I might be able to shave a foot or so off the 24" I had proposed for the AT screen wall depth. Because of the 75" wide bumped out area in the middle of that wall, deeper components such as the subwoofer (subwoofers?) could be placed toward the center, where there is an additional 24" or so of depth under the first floor fireplace's chimney chaseway. So, if we keep our seating in the same location, we could lose as little as a foot of viewing distance from the front row, making it about ten feet instead of the nine feet I had mentioned earlier.

Fortunately, I will be able to choose future AT screen fabric to avoid problems with being able to see the weave.


----------



## KevinHittle

*Bulb Change*

Good afternoon everyone!!

I went about 4 years and 3000+ hours on my original bulb on the Epson 8350. So I bought a replacement from Epson and put it in last night...so after I replaced it...the video had about 4 lines through the display...all in the top half of the display. So EPSON is sending me a new bulb. But I noticed others in this thread mention something like this but not exactly. I am attaching a pic to see if anyone has seen anything like this?!?!?

Kevin


----------



## alanhenson

My 8350 is driving me nuts. It will not recognition my inputs. It just shows no input in the lower left screen no matter what I chose. I can go back and forth from hdmi 1 and 2 with no difference. The source is an opportunity 105.


----------



## Kilgore

alanhenson said:


> My 8350 is driving me nuts. It will not recognition my inputs. It just shows no input in the lower left screen no matter what I chose. I can go back and forth from hdmi 1 and 2 with no difference. The source is an opportunity 105.


You mean Oppo 105?

Not to sound simple-minded, but have you tried another HDMI cable?


----------



## alanhenson

I sure haven't. I'm terrified it might be that. I would hate to have to rewire it in the attick.


----------



## alanhenson

Yes Oppo105. Damn auto correct.


----------



## alanhenson

Kilgore said:


> You mean Oppo 105?
> 
> Not to sound simple-minded, but have you tried another HDMI cable?


Tried it. Did not work with the Oppo 105 but did work with the laptop, directv and Mac. That suggests it's the Oppo. Tried the old cable with the Mac, laptop and Directv. Did not work which suggests it's the cable. I read others having the exact same problem with this projector.


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## socal swagger

My 8350 was working fine now it will not power up. I press the button and it blinks blue and then the tab right below blinks nothing else. Any thoughts of what it may be.


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## alanhenson

Is the bulb old?


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## socal swagger

I don't think so it will not project light so I cant access the menu damn it just might be.

Suggestions on where to get a bulb


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## alanhenson

I think I got my last one off of Amazon or something. Did it give you any messages saying the bulb was old?


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## socal swagger

No it will not project any light it blinks on than the 2nd tab below the power button lights up and I believe the lamp light flashes


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## alanhenson

Did you check the manual about that? I called them the other day for tech support and they were prompt.


----------



## alanhenson

Ok I think I figured my problem out. When I swap it hdmi cables for a 10 foot cable instead of the 25 it works. I bought a new cheap 25 ft cable from frys and it did not work. Anyone ever have this problem? I guess I need a higher quality 25ft hdmi? I'm not wasting my money on monster though. Any suggestions for high quality hdmi that are good for long runs?


----------



## sumguy91

alanhenson said:


> Ok I think I figured my problem out. When I swap it hdmi cables for a 10 foot cable instead of the 25 it works. I bought a new cheap 25 ft cable from frys and it did not work. Anyone ever have this problem? I guess I need a higher quality 25ft hdmi? I'm not wasting my money on monster though. Any suggestions for high quality hdmi that are good for long runs?


I've had good luck with Monoprice brand cables. Reasonable price and good customer service.

http://www.monoprice.com/pages/hdmi_cables


----------



## evile7575

Anyone have the problem with the 8350 that when bluray turns on they it takes awhile and flashed the espon word on screen a few times ? Shouldn't it be a seamless change and fast with out cutting out ? Not sure if it's the projector or the Marantz av7702 causing this ? All is set at 1080p. Could it be 24p issue ?


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## alanhenson

Mine does that occasionally


----------



## rakstr

Mine does this periodically as well and not just for Blu-Ray. I've also guessed it's a quirk during the HDMI negotiation


evile7575 said:


> Anyone have the problem with the 8350 that when bluray turns on they it takes awhile and flashed the espon word on screen a few times ? Shouldn't it be a seamless change and fast with out cutting out ? Not sure if it's the projector or the Marantz av7702 causing this ? All is set at 1080p. Could it be 24p issue ?


----------



## alanhenson

Mine won't project with a cable longer than 10 ft right now. Tried a brand blue jeans high speed, top of the line slap yo mama cable and nothing. No signal.


----------



## rakstr

I'd suspect the source having a weak Xmit driver. Try buying an inexpensive HDMI powered splitter from Monoprice and install it with a short cable at the source. I've run 50+ foot monoprice high speed cables to mine with no issues (YMMV). NOTE: This isn't the exact device I have as it is no longer in the product list but appears to be similar.
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8154

I also really like and use these (which were not as economic when I first installed my PJ) to get my DTV in "far off places". They used to carry a 1:1 version of the 1:4 item below that wasn't HDbaseT but I no longer see it.
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8159
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10227



alanhenson said:


> Mine won't project with a cable longer than 10 ft right now. Tried a brand blue jeans high speed, top of the line slap yo mama cable and nothing. No signal.


----------



## Swervepf

*Red glow on my image*

Just got the 8345 refurb from Visual Apex this past weekend. I watched an hour and to my horror found a red glow in the bottom of the image just to the right of center which is noticeable in dark scenes and when hitting the Blank button on the remote. It's not visible in bright scenes however. Switching from Normal to Eco, Super White on or off, or switching on auto iris has no impact. There's something physically in there causing this red glow in the image.

If I carefully look into the lens, (off angle as to not be blinded of course) I can see in the top left what looks like a rogue red thin sharp diagonal slash of light or something among the white rectangle of light that's in there making up the image I suppose. I've got a photo of the red glow on the screen which is hard to see in this photo, but not in person. I couldn't get a picture of what I saw in the lens, not with my iphone anyway.

What is this and can I fix this myself? Everything else on this refurbished unit seems great so I don't want to take my chances on swapping for another.

I had to fiddle with the image to get it more apparent, but here's the glow I'm seeing. The blue dots are my subs beneath the screen, but you can see that red glow within the screen above.

EDIT: I called Epson and they very kindly RMA'd the projector for me. They sent me a new one, which I received 2 days later, with instructions to pack up the original into the same box and ship it back to them, all shipping paid for by them. I received and hung it yesterday, and although I only had about 30 minutes to inspect the image, it seems to be perfect. The best part is that as far as I can tell, it's a brand new projector and not another refurbished one. The service at Epson was efficient and exceeded my expectations. It's unfortunate the refurb unit I received had an issue, but they made up for it in spades. I'm impressed!


----------



## Tesla1856

alanhenson said:


> Mine won't project with a cable longer than 10 ft right now. Tried a brand blue jeans high speed, top of the line slap yo mama cable and nothing. No signal.



Maybe this will help?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-304.html#post35296794


That's a long chain and still works perfectly.
As I posted, as an initial test because I was curious ... the 45ft hdmi cable (notice gauge) also worked completely by itself (directly from back of Onkyo to Epson 8350).


Is there a HDMI-2 input port on your projector that you can try?


----------



## scooterpies

I'm on my 4th Epson 8345 in 18 months (dust blobs, dust blobs, convergence issues), and another big dust blob showed up yesterday. It's still under warranty, but with the refurb units being a crap shoot, I'm considering cleaning the LCDs myself.

I searched this thread and found xccxxx's method, but I was hoping that someone could answer a few questions before I do.


Would opening the projector void the warranty? If so, how can they tell I opened it?
Are there any Epson projectors that _don't _suffer from dust blobs?
Has anyone had success with customer service offering an upgrade to a different model due to recurring issues?

I'm getting really tired of the dust blob issues. I had DLP before (BenQ w1080ST), but am one of the unfortunate few who suffer from the rainbow effect.

*I just need a projector that shoots 100" at 10 feet, has horiz/vert lens shift, and doesn't have rainbows or dust blobs. Is that too much to ask?*


----------



## phreshjive

My two-year work in progress using the Epson 8350 is still ongoing after some issues arose. Big shout out to MississippiMan for all his help.

Purchased the 8350 along with an 82" Da-Lite Cinema Contour High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) Fixed Frame Projection Screen. Had initially setup the projector, ran into an issue with it, warranty exchanged it and life then deteriorated from there. Finally got the project completed, and this is what I see in the top right hand corner on white backgrounds. Took two pictures with one being a close-up shot. Hadn't done my due diligence when I initially got the exchange. Looked through the thread and cannot pinpoint what the issue is. Not the screen material as I placed a white piece of paper in front of it and still there. 

Called Epson who ended up after some back and forth agreeing to send off a replacement refurbished unit. That unit came with a convergence issue shown in the image below with the letter A. Called them up yet again and was told after being escalated to Advanced Product Support that a quality assured refurbished unit would now be sent off. Received that one today and after having our handyman take down our existing unit a second time, upon flipping over the quality assured refurbished one, you could hear a number of parts rattling around inside. See the following video: 






Another call to Epson, another "quality assured" unit being sent off. 

After thoroughly reading this thread, I believe the following are all the issues one should be looking for once they receive a replacement:

Dust Blobs
Auto-Iris Failure Issues
Sharpness (Chromatic Distortion) Issues
Convergence Issues
Stuck/Stiff Focus and Zoom Rings
Dislodged Parts Issue

A little ridiculous at this point despite statements from experts in the thread of the countless units they've installed without issue. Getting tired playing Refurbished Projector Bingo. /endrant


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## Smidget

I just moved into a new house and I'm working with a 8350 is a smaller space than what I've worked with in the past. I've got it to fill a 120" screen though with it's amazing vertical/horizontal lens shift. The smaller room in a Florida house equals a very warm room. What settings on the 8350 would provide the coolest running temperature? High altitude mode (higher fan) + eco mode bulb?


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## Swervepf

Smidget said:


> I just moved into a new house and I'm working with a 8350 is a smaller space than what I've worked with in the past. I've got it to fill a 120" screen though with it's amazing vertical/horizontal lens shift. The smaller room in a Florida house equals a very warm room. What settings on the 8350 would provide the coolest running temperature? High altitude mode (higher fan) + eco mode bulb?


fiddling with the options in my 8345, what got it the quietest (fan speed down due to less heat) seemed to be Cinema, ECO mode, EPSON Super White ON. It's also the least bright image however.


----------



## DragonlordP

There is a chance I'm buying a TW3600 (the 8035's european equivalent, if I got it right) and I'd like to know what the general opinion on this projector is. Can't go through 306 pages! 
With some search I found some complaints about dust blobs, and some about bulbs going out sooner than advertised. Are those frequent indeed? Are dust blobs easy to clean on your own?
Also, does this projector do 3D? I read it's "3D ready" - does that mean it's not the same as newer projectors, where you only need a pair of glasses?
Thanks!


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## Protonus

DragonlordP said:


> Can't go through 306 pages!


But you can search the thread. The reason it's 306 pages long is because people keep asking the same things repeatedly like this.

This post written in Tapatalk on my LG G3


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## socal swagger

Would you guys consider the epson 3500 a huge step up from the 8350?

My room now is light controlled with black cieling and dark red walls.

I love the pic on the epson 8350 it's at 150 with a silver ticket screen.

I need a new bulb, that's the only reason iam thinking of the upgrade


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## DragonlordP

Protonus said:


> But you can search the thread. The reason it's 306 pages long is because people keep asking the same things repeatedly like this.
> 
> This post written in Tapatalk on my LG G3


No, as a matter of fact I can't (or don't know how to) search for "the general opinion on this projector", which was my main question. For the other questions, I find a lot of people saying their bulbs exploded etc but I can't be sure if it's at an extent where one would say that there is added risk with bulbs with this particular projector, that's what I was asking. The only thing I could find by searching was how to clean the dust blobs, and I already have, but I thought I'd throw this question in anyway in case someone has something new to say since some of the answers go back a while.


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## JDontee

I'm having an issue with my Epson 8350 when it boots up cold. The EPSON screen will pop up like normal, then it just goes to a black screen. The projector is on, the fans are blowing, the power light blinks blue slowly and you can see light come from the lense. Also, randomly it sounds like the lense is trying to automatically adjust. I attached a link to the youtube clip of this happening. Anyone have similar problems?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

HTPC_Dude said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *xccxxx*
> 
> So after developing the dreaded Green Dust Blob problem on my EH-TW 3200, I decided to open it up to try and clean it myself. I believe the Epson 8350 is the same projector (just the U.S version of the 3200), so this should work for that also. I managed to get rid of all the dust with this method, so thought I would post this up for others if they want to try it also. It was actually really easy, and I'm happy to have avoided the hassle of having to go the replaced/exchanged route with Epson. All you need is a can of compressed air, a phillips head screwdriver and 20 or so minutes. Obviously, do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible if your projector blows up etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, make sure your projector is unplugged, and has been off for at least an hour or so.
> Step 1
> Take out the 2 screws circled in red, then flip the projector upside down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 2
> Remove the next twelve screws circled in red.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 3
> Gently remove the side as shown in the picture. Once you are this far, you need to sort of push it down to disengage the top clips. This is by far the most annoying part of the whole process, be really careful here and do not force anything too much. You can also try flipping the projector right side up to try and wedge this off that way (it might actually be a little easier like this)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the top clips here, and also the ribbon cable connecting to the 'Menu' panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 4
> With the projector right side up, gently lift off the top casing. This comes off really easily, just be careful of the ribbon cable that is connected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 5
> Locate the three ribbons that have the words RED, GREEN and BLUE on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 6
> Spray compressed air as shown in the pictures. (Do all three ribbons just for good measure) I used up a 250ml can while doing this. Try and keep the can as vertical as possible in order to avoid any liquid/moisture coming out of the can. Give it a couple of test sprays before putting it near your projector. You could also get someone to hold the projector on its side while spraying in order to keep the can as upright as possible .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 7
> Re-assemble, and your blobs will hopefully be gone.
> Good luck!!
> 
> 
> Thank you xccxxx, just performed the dust removal per your instructions and everything went beautifully. I had 3 dust blobs, but after the cleaning, I have zero. Can't believe it was so easy. My projector only has 240 hrs. Admittedly I had not even cleaned the filter but I did not want to disturb the projector and create more dust, however, the dust blobs appeared anyway. Obviously, the projector is not sealed were it needs to be. Anyway, a little compressed air did the trick.
> 
> The only thing I did different was I disconnected the flex ribbon cables. Easy to do, just lift up on the sliding part of the connector on the PCB.
> 
> I'm happy that my projector is like new again and I did not need to call Epson for a refurbished replacement!




Thought I'd bring back an old post and thank the OP once again. I just performed this service yesterday on my one year old 8345 after 250 hours of run time. Without instruction, I would not know how to resolve the dust blob issue without sending the unit back to Epson. I had an 8350 which also had dust blobs until I blew out the unit per the posted instructions. What was nice is the dust blobs never came back, so hopefully this is generally a one time occurrence and once fixed it's good for a long while.

A few days ago I was considering upgrading to a new, more expensive projector, like the Sony VPL-HW40 ES. I've seen this projector go for as little as $1700 or about 2X what I paid for my 8345. After blowing out the dust blobs, realigning and focusing the image to my screen and fiddling around with the color modes, I am once again quite happy with my 8345 and no longer feel the need to go out and spend money for something new. The only real advantages I would say the Sony HW40 has over my 8345 is the lack of Auto-Iris while still having (probably) better blacks. For me, any chance to get rid of noise and complexity is a plus. However, I wouldn't be willing to spend 2X for that feature.


----------



## phreshjive

*Iris Noise*

Received my replacement Quality Assured refurbished projector after a much longer than normal wait. While the picture is seemingly spot on, I am concerned with the variation in sound coming from the Iris and fan. First unit that I have heard such a high pitch iris. I uploaded the audio from both units here: https://soundcloud.com/phreshjive-1

Note that you'll hear substantially more fan noise from the older defective unit (Unit B) as the replacement unit with the higher pitch Iris (Unit A) is mounted on the ceiling while the older defective unit (Unit B) was placed on a hardwood floor. 

My concern is that with all the reports of Iris failures over time that the replacement unit (Unit A) has some issue with its iris. Comments are very much appreciated.


----------



## kevinwoodward

socal swagger said:


> Would you guys consider the epson 3500 a huge step up from the 8350?
> 
> My room now is light controlled with black cieling and dark red walls.
> 
> I love the pic on the epson 8350 it's at 150 with a silver ticket screen.
> 
> I need a new bulb, that's the only reason iam thinking of the upgrade


Won't you need a new bulb to prove it works when selling it anyway. 
Get the new bulb, see what comes out for new models, 
pick up something new when you have 800 hours on the new bulb.


----------



## michaelgn

johnd393 said:


> The 8345 is connected to a Dish receiver that functions as a dvr with a external harddrive. I have a HDnet test pattern saved on the hard drive. The box is no longer recognizing the hard drive. I ordered a external case to install the bare drive in, hoping it's the drives usb adaptor that's bad. I'm holding off on pictures till I get that working, or not. Without the external drive I can't even pause an image. I don't have a BluRay calibration disk. I have a HDDVD disk but can't find it. I did find a camera that's been missing since September.
> I ordered a $13 ceiling mount on eBay. I'll post how that works out.
> I need to get the CRT down cus it's in the way. The 8345 will be behind it.


Hi John, I recently bought an Epson 8345 refurb. It has a rotating wheel sound, and it has a weird alarm-like periodic noise. I have video about this. Do you have the same thing? I am wondering if I need to ask for a return or replacement, because it didn't sound normal. Thank you!

youtube.com/watch?v=7FT3QSwePts


----------



## socal swagger

kevinwoodward said:


> Won't you need a new bulb to prove it works when selling it anyway.
> Get the new bulb, see what comes out for new models,
> pick up something new when you have 800 hours on the new bulb.


Yeah replaced with oem bulb and picture is 100%...Gona hold onto it it for a bit more until the 5025/5030 drop down a bit more...


----------



## Mazeroth

I have a question about sending back my projector after receiving a refurb. Mine was blowing lamps, one at 1100 hours and one at around 850. The most recent one, the 850, actually made a popping sound. I took it out and was going to buy another one and threw it in the trash. Then I figured I'd call Epson and they said they'd ship a refurb'd unit so I agreed. I just received my replacement and it looks like it came with a brand new lamp. I'm getting ~13 ftL, which is typical for a new lamp with my installation. My problem is, I have a projector to send back without a lamp in it. Is this going to be a problem?


----------



## alperciz

*my epson 8350 started having this issue. the image on the very left and right of the screen looks a little brighter (or in colder tint i am not sure). the area is larger on the right side. I tried different cables, and different input/outputs. no luck. what do you guys think the problem is? *


----------



## Deemancpa

Quick question: Can someone confirm if PureLandSupply is the place to purchase oem bulbs for the 8350?


----------



## razevents

Upgrading, what would you buy a used 8350 for which has a bulb at 2k hours and for one with a new bulb? No issues with the unit. Trying to price it to get rid of it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kent13304

My Epson 8350 has a blinking red temp light and won't power on. The user manual just says to contact Epson. What might this be?


----------



## HTPC_Dude

razevents said:


> Upgrading, what would you buy a used 8350 for which has a bulb at 2k hours and for one with a new bulb? No issues with the unit. Trying to price it to get rid of it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would think it would sell fast at $600-$650.


----------



## razevents

HTPC_Dude said:


> I would think it would sell fast at $600-$650.



7hunded ish hours. It's listed. It's set in the 400s. No bites for a while on here. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aijuswannasing

*Is this dimming?*

So my last replacement was in 2014 and 300HRS later I'm noticing the brightness/contrast adjusting itself every few seconds. Is this what "dimming" looks like? I assumed dimming would be an overall dimming of the output of the bulb that happened gradually. Watching the superbowl yesterday it was quite apparent the change in picture as it was constantly happening.

I could describe it as every 3 -5 seconds, the brightness would slightly drop and therefore contrast popped, then it would even out, and happen again.

Part of me feels it could perhaps be fans turning on and off, or some sort of power drop?

I tried turning off eco mode but there's no difference.


I called Epson, i'm past my warranty. Coincidentally, two dust blobs just appeared. I'm not sure what to do about it, there's no Epson repair centers near me, and they won't send me a replacement. They're more concerned with the blobs - they recommended I get a new/same projector to verify that the bulb is its own issue, then they'll bump me up to a higher support tier where i can negotiate a free replacement bulb.

Anyone have any luck using their credit card extended coverage on something like this?


----------



## Tesla1856

aijuswannasing said:


> So my last replacement was in 2014 and 300HRS later I'm noticing the brightness/contrast adjusting itself every few seconds. Is this what "dimming" looks like? I assumed dimming would be an overall dimming of the output of the bulb that happened gradually. Watching the superbowl yesterday it was quite apparent the change in picture as it was constantly happening.
> 
> I could describe it as every 3 -5 seconds, the brightness would slightly drop and therefore contrast popped, then it would even out, and happen again.
> 
> Part of me feels it could perhaps be fans turning on and off, or some sort of power drop?
> 
> I tried turning off eco mode but there's no difference.
> 
> 
> I called Epson, i'm past my warranty. Coincidentally, two dust blobs just appeared. I'm not sure what to do about it, there's no Epson repair centers near me, and they won't send me a replacement. They're more concerned with the blobs - they recommended I get a new/same projector to verify that the bulb is its own issue, then they'll bump me up to a higher support tier where i can negotiate a free replacement bulb.
> 
> Anyone have any luck using their credit card extended coverage on something like this?



What about the Auto-Iris setting?


Sounds like bulb maybe. Try a genuine Epson bulb. Maybe AC-Power (long-shot) so try a good and adequate-sized UPS (like APC) ... maybe temp borrow from PC.


Dust blobs fix has been posted several times. Reseat all connection while in there.


Yes, over the years ... I've successfully used CC Buyer Protection for consumer electronics and computer peripherals.


Mine is still working fine ... purchased new at local BestBuy 8-2011.


----------



## JDontee

I seem to be having some HDMI handshaking issues with my 8350. The screen will remain black, even though I can see that there is light coming from the bulb. This only happens if the source is turned on. For example, if I turn on the projector when my PS4 is on, I get a black screen. If it's turned off, then the projector boots up just fine. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## areese159

So I have been reading through this thread and have used the search feature but I haven't seen anyone specifically replace their auto iris in their Epson 8350. Recently I've noticed when I turning on the projector and as it finishes warming up, I hear the motor moving the iris and then a loud click. As far as I can tell this is the auto iris failing and I need to replace it. I've read over the post from Protonus about the layout of the 8350 and taking it apart but I have a couple questions. As far as I can tell from some images, all that's in the way of the auto iris is the motherboard. Is there anything else that I would have to remove to be able to swap out the old one? Also i'm guessing the only place i'm going to get a new iris is from another 8350 or does anyone know where I can pick one up? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## goxc

areese159 said:


> So I have been reading through this thread and have used the search feature but I haven't seen anyone specifically replace their auto iris in their Epson 8350. Recently I've noticed when I turning on the projector and as it finishes warming up, I hear the motor moving the iris and then a loud click. As far as I can tell this is the auto iris failing and I need to replace it. I've read over the post from Protonus about the layout of the 8350 and taking it apart but I have a couple questions. As far as I can tell from some images, all that's in the way of the auto iris is the motherboard. Is there anything else that I would have to remove to be able to swap out the old one? Also i'm guessing the only place i'm going to get a new iris is from another 8350 or does anyone know where I can pick one up? Any help would be appreciated.


When my auto iris failed two years ago it displayed a message on the screen stating so. I just had my projector apart when my cinema filter failed and it's easy to see if operation of the auto iris, but not sure about accessing it. If the projector's working properly other than the click and out of warranty I personally wouldn't worry about it until you get an error message.


----------



## Smidget

I just developed dust blobs over the past week or two and want to follow that recently reposted step-by-step guide. Here's a question: Is there any possibility that I could make it worse? Has anyone in this thread or heard reported that it got worse at doing the above? It's not horrible, but during all black scenes I noticed it and it'll probably drive me a bit crazy  Just don't want to make it a bigger issue though. Never confident about stuff like that


----------



## areese159

goxc said:


> When my auto iris failed two years ago it displayed a message on the screen stating so. I just had my projector apart when my cinema filter failed and it's easy to see if operation of the auto iris, but not sure about accessing it. If the projector's working properly other than the click and out of warranty I personally wouldn't worry about it until you get an error message.


Ya the projector has been out of warranty for over a year now. I just wanted to fix it before I get an error message since the projector is my main television. By the sound of the click/clunk i'm going to guess it wont be long before an error.


----------



## the-pred

Had my 8350 for a while. I find that I can focus the picture and everything looks great, but after watching a movie I notice it falls out of focus. I don't know if vibration does this or what. Anyone else had this, can I fix?


----------



## EmulousTrigger

Don't want to sound like a tool, but I've tried searching to no avail. Does someone have a 8350 setup guide out there? Something that properly explains all the picture options? I see a lot of options but no idea how they actually work when trying to calibrate my projector. 

Cheers!


----------



## bmf795

EmulousTrigger said:


> Don't want to sound like a tool, but I've tried searching to no avail. Does someone have a 8350 setup guide out there? Something that properly explains all the picture options? I see a lot of options but no idea how they actually work when trying to calibrate my projector.
> 
> Cheers!


https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf


----------



## curtlots

*Replacement Lamps*

I meant to update this a long time ago, 2540 hours ago to be exact. That's how many hours I got from the the last sub $30 lamp I got from Amazon. I noticed it starting to dim slightly, so for $20.80 I bought another. I put it in last Thursday night, and it's been working great. This one is listed as being "by KCL". 

I use my projector like a TV, it racks up hours quickly. I've tried the "Genie" lamps, and the lamps that advertise "genuine Osram" bulbs. The lamp with the Osram bulb was the most expensive by far (around $150) and one of the worse. The colors of the projector were way off. If I displayed an all white screen, the image went from red tinges on the left to blue tinges on the right. I see this seller is no longer on Amazon. 

Anyway, I was very satisfied with my last bulb, and so far, the new bulb from the same seller is performing great. When displaying an all white screen, it's truly white, from side to side, and corner to corner.


----------



## Tesla1856

curtlots said:


> I meant to update this a long time ago, 2540 hours ago to be exact. That's how many hours I got from the the last sub $30 lamp I got from Amazon. I noticed it starting to dim slightly, so for $20.80 I bought another. I put it in last Thursday night, and it's been working great. This one is listed as being "by KCL".
> 
> I use my projector like a TV, it racks up hours quickly. I've tried the "Genie" lamps, and the lamps that advertise "genuine Osram" bulbs. The lamp with the Osram bulb was the most expensive by far (around $150) and one of the worse. The colors of the projector were way off. If I displayed an all white screen, the image went from red tinges on the left to blue tinges on the right. I see this seller is no longer on Amazon.
> 
> Anyway, I was very satisfied with my last bulb, and so far, the new bulb from the same seller is performing great. When displaying an all white screen, it's truly white, from side to side, and corner to corner.


 
Thanks for posting this.


I bought my 8350 new in 2011 and I'm still on my first bulb (currently 1108 hours) . I'm pretty anal about OEM parts and after reading some of the posts I have read about lame knock-off bulbs, I'll likely just get one straight from Epson. It would be great if it lasts like this original one has.


However, your post is good info and now I might get brave enough to try one. Do you have an exact Amazon URL-Link?


----------



## dilipb

Yes, Link will help.

According to Epson's site the bulb has the product code: ELPLP49 or V13H010L49
Reference: http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/ProductQuickSpec.jsp?UseCookie=yes&oid=63079290&category=Products

On Amazon if I search for ELPLP49,
KCL product is http://www.amazon.com/EPSON-ELPLP49-Projector-Replacement-Housing/dp/B007CJQ588/ priced currently at $20.80
Its Sold by PLC Star and Fulfilled by Amazon. 

I also see this product listed as "by Epson"
http://www.amazon.com/Guaranteed-Epson-V13H010L49-Replacement-Projector/dp/B00ODI04FQ for $29.61
Ships from and sold by Exclusivebulbs.

Not sure which one to buy.


----------



## Ir8pir8

Really struggling with my purchase of an Epson 8350. Has less than 100 hours on it in three years due to usage in bonus room versus our den. 

After having the original purchase replaced due to defective HDMI inputs. I now have a newer unit and it just started flashing both warning lights (temp and bulb) simultaneously. Epson is telling me to take a hike due to it being a year out of warranty, even though its been replaced once. I've already contacted the BBB of Cali. to open a complaint.

Anyone have any idea what this error is? Nothing works. It turns on, no light illumination at all, fan cranks up and then the lights start flashing and everything else ceases operation. Every time I've needed this projector it lets me down, most recently when I had people over for the Final Four NCAA Tourney.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for anything.


----------



## curtlots

Tesla1856 said:


> Thanks for posting this.
> 
> 
> I bought my 8350 new in 2011 and I'm still on my first bulb (currently 1108 hours) . I'm pretty anal about OEM parts and after reading some of the posts I have read about lame knock-off bulbs, I'll likely just get one straight from Epson. It would be great if it lasts like this original one has.
> 
> 
> However, your post is good info and now I might get brave enough to try one. Do you have an exact Amazon URL-Link?


I apologize, I got busy and didn't check back on my post. This is the link for the bulb I got at Amazon. It's still going good, no complaints... http://smile.amazon.com/EPSON-ELPLP...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


----------



## DrewB

Ir8pir8 said:


> Really struggling with my purchase of an Epson 8350. Has less than 100 hours on it in three years due to usage in bonus room versus our den.
> 
> After having the original purchase replaced due to defective HDMI inputs. I now have a newer unit and it just started flashing both warning lights (temp and bulb) simultaneously. Epson is telling me to take a hike due to it being a year out of warranty, even though its been replaced once. I've already contacted the BBB of Cali. to open a complaint.
> 
> Anyone have any idea what this error is? Nothing works. It turns on, no light illumination at all, fan cranks up and then the lights start flashing and everything else ceases operation. Every time I've needed this projector it lets me down, most recently when I had people over for the Final Four NCAA Tourney.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for anything.



Could be a defective bulb. You should consider trying one from Amazon for less than


----------



## tpoynton

I was inspired by this thread to buy the $20 bulb mentioned above; my 8350 has about 1500 hours on the original bulb, which also includes 2 power failures (gulp). The $20 bulb had about the same brightness and color as the original it replaced, it seems - but it also had a noticeable rhythmic hum to it - every second or two a faint 'beep' sort of noise. The projector is right over the seating area - if it was just a few feet further away, it would probably not be noticeable. I put the original bulb back in, no noise - and now I have a perfectly acceptable backup bulb for $20 - money well spent. When the brightness dims just a little more I may cough up the dough for an OEM bulb, but in the meantime, I feel pretty good about having a backup bulb!


----------



## Mr.G

^^^ Hmmm... Failed a brightness test and has an audible noise when used. A back-handed recommendation to be sure.


----------



## Tesla1856

*Temp Light Flashing - SOLVED*

I bought my 8350 from BestBuy in 2011. Never had a problem with it. I'm still on original bulb with about 1200 hours on it.


Last night when we turned it on, the TEMP light started flashing as it warmed up. Main bulb turns off (loss of picture) within a few seconds, and all fans run at 100% for a while until it shuts-down completely. Only a power-cycle gets it going again, but same cycle repeats.


I cleaned the (original) filter with air-compressor ... a little dusty but no help.


I vacuumed the outside and then I opened it up. Took some pics with my phone for wiring and parts reference. It looked clean inside.


It looks like there are 4 fans inside. I think they are Intake, Bulb, Power-Supply, and Exhaust. Not all are easy to get to or even see/inspect. I think they are all "3-wire" (with tach) so the motherboard should be able to tell if they are spinning or not. 
I found the large final exhaust fan in front (just inside the projector's front exhaust port) a little hard to turn and a bit dusty. I cleaned it better and put 1/2 drop of silicone-oil on the axle-tip (appeared to maybe be a rotation-point). With my finger, it now spins better and now has the springy magnet "computer fan" feel to it again.



*Reassembled and it works fine now.*


Just thought you all might like to know. It seems that if the 8350 detects a malfunction with any of the 4 fans, it shuts down and flashes the "Temperature" light ... presumably to prevent damage.


----------



## M.T.Nest

*Finally!*

After almost a year, I've finally got my second hand 8350 mounted and running. 


I still need to adjust the image settings to optimize them to our theater room, but I wanted to thank MississippiMan and other experts on here who have provided so much great information.


This thread not only helped me to be more confident in buying this used projector, but also provides tons of set up and troubleshooting info.


Thanks!
Kevin


----------



## mach250

My fans have been buzzing for a while and from experience with computer fans they shouldn't be good for much longer. I found an exploded view pdf on epsons site and there are three blower type fans and one standard computer style fan. I need to figure out which fans are making the noise and then find a place where I can get replacements.




Tesla1856 said:


> I bought my 8350 from BestBuy in 2011. Never had a problem with it. I'm still on original bulb with about 1200 hours on it.
> 
> 
> Last night when we turned it on, the TEMP light started flashing as it warmed up. Main bulb turns off (loss of picture) within a few seconds, and all fans run at 100% for a while until it shuts-down completely. Only a power-cycle gets it going again, but same cycle repeats.
> 
> 
> I cleaned the (original) filter with air-compressor ... a little dusty but no help.
> 
> 
> I vacuumed the outside and then I opened it up. Took some pics with my phone for wiring and parts reference. It looked clean inside.
> 
> 
> It looks like there are 4 fans inside. I think they are Intake, Bulb, Power-Supply, and Exhaust. Not all are easy to get to or even see/inspect. I think they are all "3-wire" (with tach) so the motherboard should be able to tell if they are spinning or not.
> I found the large final exhaust fan in front (just inside the projector's front exhaust port) a little hard to turn and a bit dusty. I cleaned it better and put 1/2 drop of silicone-oil on the axle-tip (appeared to maybe be a rotation-point). With my finger, it now spins better and now has the springy magnet "computer fan" feel to it again.
> 
> 
> 
> *Reassembled and it works fine now.*
> 
> 
> Just thought you all might like to know. It seems that if the 8350 detects a malfunction with any of the 4 fans, it shuts down and flashes the "Temperature" light ... presumably to prevent damage.


----------



## Tesla1856

mach250 said:


> My fans have been buzzing for a while and from experience with computer fans they shouldn't be good for much longer. I found an exploded view pdf on epsons site and there are three blower type fans and one standard computer style fan. I need to figure out which fans are making the noise and then find a place where I can get replacements.


 
Yes, you should check them. Sometimes, just cleaning them helps (makes blades lighter). If you can easily reach bearing or axle, a drop of silicone oil helps. I've seen these simple procedures extend the life of fans in computer and AV-gear for years.


Can you post exploded diagram of 8350 or provide URL link? I searched Internet for Epson 8350 Service Manual, but could never find one.


Also, vacuum-away dust as you go. Try not to blow existing dust further into optics or light path. Never touch actual optics, lenses, or glass bulb with your finger.


----------



## wildswing

Hey folks,

At some point I changed some setting that then caused the projector to make a strange noise, like a motorized adjustment was happening, any time I switched from an HD cable channel or Blu ray to a standard definition cable channel. I think the fan would also seped up when goung to the standard def channel. I tried backtracking to figure out what it was I changed to cause this, to no avail. I finally reset the projector, and restored those setting I know I had changed, and whatever it was no longer happens.

Can anybody shed some light on what it was I was hearing, and what setting it might be that would have caused the projector to do this?


----------



## FrankS

wildswing said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> At some point I changed some setting that then caused the projector to make a strange noise, like a motorized adjustment was happening, any time I switched from an HD cable channel or Blu ray to a standard definition cable channel. I think the fan would also seped up when goung to the standard def channel. I tried backtracking to figure out what it was I changed to cause this, to no avail. I finally reset the projector, and restored those setting I know I had changed, and whatever it was no longer happens.
> 
> Can anybody shed some light on what it was I was hearing, and what setting it might be that would have caused the projector to do this?


 It sounds like you enabled the dynamic iris on the projector that will have a similar sound when enabled (which is normal and nothing to worry about).


----------



## Tesla1856

wildswing said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> At some point I changed some setting that then caused the projector to make a strange noise, like a motorized adjustment was happening, any time I switched from an HD cable channel or Blu ray to a standard definition cable channel. I think the fan would also seped up when goung to the standard def channel. I tried backtracking to figure out what it was I changed to cause this, to no avail. I finally reset the projector, and restored those setting I know I had changed, and whatever it was no longer happens.
> 
> Can anybody shed some light on what it was I was hearing, and what setting it might be that would have caused the projector to do this?



Switching Color Modes also makes a motor sound, but can't say I've ever seen it do it on its own, or while changing channels.


----------



## wildswing

Thanks for the replies guys



FrankS said:


> It sounds like you enabled the dynamic iris on the projector that will have a similar sound when enabled (which is normal and nothing to worry about).


I'm pretty sure it wasn't on. I tested it with auto iris on today. No noise.



Tesla1856 said:


> Switching Color Modes also makes a motor sound, but can't say I've ever seen it do it on its own, or while changing channels.


I tried a couple different color modes today. No noise.

Still stumped.


----------



## Tesla1856

wildswing said:


> I tried a couple different color modes today. No noise.
> 
> .


Hmm, maybe you are right about no-noise during Color-Mode Changes.


Actually, I change Color Modes by loading Saved Preset Profiles 1-3 (with my Harmony) ... named Day, Dusk, and Night. I likely have other differences in those Saved Presets, like maybe a switch between Normal and ECO brightness.


----------



## wildswing

Tesla1856 said:


> Hmm, maybe you are right about no-noise during Color-Mode Changes...


I've tried a bunch of things but still no noise. It makes that same noise when it starts up. Kinda of a whirring servo noise. Oh well. I may just remain a mystery.


----------



## prrebe

I'm about to buy a secondhand 8350 / tw3200 for $350, with only 229 hours of lamp use. I would be okay with spending $680 on a new 2040 / tw5210 but the lens shift and wide zoom range just seems immensely convenient. Anything in particular I should watch out for when I go to inspect it?


----------



## jupiterfish

anybody find a good solution for the dust globs?


----------



## Tesla1856

jupiterfish said:


> anybody find a good solution for the dust globs?



Keeping them out in the first place, or ...


cleaning them out once they get inside and are affecting picture. Which problem?


----------



## DevonS

*Fans during normal startup/shutdown*

I don't recall exactly how old my 8350 is, 4 or 5 years. The lamp has nearly 3000 hours on it and appears to be going strong. I ordered a replacement as I fear the end is near. But, I'm worried about my fans. I recall over the last 5-ish years that during startup and shutdown the fans would kick into high for at least a few seconds or minutes on shutdown. Recently, my kids were using the PJ and it started complaining (on screen) about the projector overheating. I cleaned the filter (hadn't been done in some time... oops) and the message has not returned. However, when the projector starts up or shuts down, I never hear that satisfying high-gear fan noise. While it's running, I can definitely hear _some_ fan noise, but it's eerily quiet.

My question is, if the fans are failing, why does the projector not report the problem and shut down, like in the detailed posts from Protonus here? Does anyone know which fans are _supposed to_ kick into high during power up/down? All of them?


----------



## Tesla1856

DevonS said:


> I don't recall exactly how old my 8350 is, 4 or 5 years. The lamp has nearly 3000 hours on it and appears to be going strong. I ordered a replacement as I fear the end is near. But, I'm worried about my fans. I recall over the last 5-ish years that during startup and shutdown the fans would kick into high for at least a few seconds or minutes on shutdown. Recently, my kids were using the PJ and it started complaining (on screen) about the projector overheating. I cleaned the filter (hadn't been done in some time... oops) and the message has not returned. However, when the projector starts up or shuts down, I never hear that satisfying high-gear fan noise. While it's running, I can definitely hear _some_ fan noise, but it's eerily quiet.
> 
> My question is, if the fans are failing, why does the projector not report the problem and shut down, like in the detailed posts from Protonus here? Does anyone know which fans are _supposed to_ kick into high during power up/down? All of them?




Knowing what I know now, Protonus' first problem was one of his main fans was not turning. See top of this page ... I had the same Temp-Shut-Down problem. Cleaning and carefully lubing the fan-bearing un-seized it. Working fine since.


According to my trouble-shooting ... if ANY of the main (4?) fans are not turning at power-up, it will auto-protect itself and engage TEMP shut-down. So, yes ... "all of them".


Sometimes, if the fan blades are just a bit dirty, it can really slow them down. This might be why yours sounds different now. Also, sometimes bearings in extreme conditions must have a bit of lube to run at full speed again.


----------



## Lowkae

Can someone who's successfully gotten the dust blobs out of their 8350 projector tell me where to spray my canned air? I've taken mine apart three times now and sprayed it and the green dust blobs are still there. Green dust blobs mean spray the green ribbon right? I've attacked that thing from every angle and on both ends of where it attaches to things and the dust blobs haven't changed in the slightest.


----------



## Tesla1856

Lowkae said:


> Can someone who's successfully gotten the dust blobs out of their 8350 projector tell me where to spray my canned air? I've taken mine apart three times now and sprayed it and the green dust blobs are still there. Green dust blobs mean spray the green ribbon right? I've attacked that thing from every angle and on both ends of where it attaches to things and the dust blobs haven't changed in the slightest.




Are you following the detailed "optics path air-cleaning" directions and pics that a helpful user posted a few pages back?


----------



## Lowkae

Tesla1856 said:


> Are you following the detailed "optics path air-cleaning" directions and pics that a helpful user posted a few pages back?


Assuming you're referring to xccxxx's post (Post #7218) , yes that's the one I followed. If someone else has more detailed instructions, please point me to them. I've opened mine four times now and my dust blobs haven't gone away.


----------



## magnone

*8350 vs Epson Ex9200*

Hello everyone. I recently replaced the bulb on my 8350 with a genuine Epson bulb from B&H. Of course I started seeing targeted ads for other projectors so I stumbled on the newer Epson ex9200 which boasts a 10,000 hr lamp life on ECO, 5,000 regular, which is more than double the life of the OEM 8350 bulbs. The specs on the 9200 all look up to par with the 8350 so why is the 9200 only $700? I guess I just want to know I didn't spend $235 on a bulb for an inferior projector when I could have just upgraded to a better projector with longer lamp life? 

In short, can you guys tell me if the 8350 is superior? 

Also, and I should have asked before I bought the new lamp, but has anyone found an aftermarket one that has no perceivable loss of quality compared to an Epson lamp?


----------



## JustAnEE

the 9200 is a business projector. It's not 16:9 (It's 16:10). It's brighter but probably has much worse black levels. No lens shift. Smaller zoom range. Much louder fan noise. Lower contrast ratio*

*basing contrast ratio just from specs, but I don't remember if the 8350 has iris so I don't know their native contrasts


----------



## TechSloth

Thanks so much to posts like the ones from Protonus and Tesla 1856 concerning fans and the dreaded temp shutdown issue. I'm having that issue now and have pulled the projector apart to find all four fans. They all four work when voltage is applied so I wondered if anyone could advise how to further troubleshoot. I've searched the web trying to find some info on these fans such as normal resistance to try to determine which fan is the potential culprit.

Also, can anyone tell me how to check the temp sensors to eliminate them as the issue as opposed to a fan?

Thanks


----------



## Tesla1856

*Lamp Replacement*

After 5 years and 1515 hours, the original lamp in my 8350 is starting to flicker. Temporarily dropping back to ECO-Mode helps, but only a little.


Put off by the poor reviews on all the "cloned" lamps on Amazon, I just ordered another genuine lamp from Epson.com (with free next-day delivery). Only other place I would trust for a genuine lamp is B&H Photo & Video. If I get anywhere near 5yrs/1515hours with the next one, I'll be happy.


Poor reviews of $20-$150 lamps on Amazon (and other places) including things like dim output, wrong colors, beeping, various picture abnormalities, and early failures (some violent). 


I don't know about you guys, but I want the projector to operate as close to new as possible. The target is to produce a perfect picture at 2000-Lumens in both color and white-light output. I think to get exactly this ... we need the exact lamp the 8350 was designed to use.
Genuine Lamp: 200w Ultra High Efficiency E-TORL (Epson Twin Optimized Reflection Lamp) ELPLP49 
- Part # V13H010L49


I think $250-$300 is a fair price for this lamp. I've always been a firm believer that you get what you pay for. I have a feeling the cheap lamps are different somehow. A cheap 150w bulb from China, not a true TORL, or who knows what corners they cut.


----------



## mach250

If anyones still looking for it this is the total breakout diagram of the projector

https://compassmicro.com/media/wysiwyg/diagrams/PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350-exploded-diag.pdf


----------



## Tesla1856

mach250 said:


> If anyones still looking for it this is the total breakout diagram of the projector
> 
> https://compassmicro.com/media/wysiwyg/diagrams/PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350-exploded-diag.pdf


Thanks. Saved that for sure.


BTW, I replaced my lamp with genuine $300 lamp from Epson.


Flickering is gone.
Brightness is back (back to running in ECO, even in non-light-controlled multi-use room).
Picture is perfect ... like new.


----------



## DrewB

Tesla1856 said:


> After 5 years and 1515 hours, the original lamp in my 8350 is starting to flicker. Temporarily dropping back to ECO-Mode helps, but only a little.
> 
> 
> Put off by the poor reviews on all the "cloned" lamps on Amazon, I just ordered another genuine lamp from Epson.com (with free next-day delivery). Only other place I would trust for a genuine lamp is B&H Photo & Video. If I get anywhere near 5yrs/1515hours with the next one, I'll be happy.
> 
> 
> Poor reviews of $20-$150 lamps on Amazon (and other places) including things like dim output, wrong colors, beeping, various picture abnormalities, and early failures (some violent).
> 
> 
> I don't know about you guys, but I want the projector to operate as close to new as possible. The target is to produce a perfect picture at 2000-Lumens in both color and white-light output. I think to get exactly this ... we need the exact lamp the 8350 was designed to use.
> Genuine Lamp: 200w Ultra High Efficiency E-TORL (Epson Twin Optimized Reflection Lamp) ELPLP49
> - Part # V13H010L49
> 
> 
> I think $250-$300 is a fair price for this lamp. I've always been a firm believer that you get what you pay for. I have a feeling the cheap lamps are different somehow. A cheap 150w bulb from China, not a true TORL, or who knows what corners they cut.


So did you buy an original bulb, if so, how is it performing?


----------



## Tesla1856

DrewB said:


> So did you buy an original bulb, if so, how is it performing?


Yes, $300 genuine OEM from Epson.com (with free shipping) ... Looked identical to the original one (black plastic holder, bulb, etc.) and had the small round genuine Epson sticker on it.


Working Perfectly.


Flickering is gone.
Brightness is back (back to running in ECO-Mode, even in non-light-controlled multi-use room).
Picture is perfect ... like new. 


B&H Photo has them for $250 but you have to pay shipping. My guess is those are genuine also.


Been cleaning the original air-filter with air-compressor all these years, so I went ahead and installed a new one also.


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

I've found it on ProjectorPeople for $245 with free shipping right now (http://www.projectorpeople.com/Epson-Replacement-Lamp/Accessory/24204) or at B&H for $235 (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605594-REG/Epson_V13H010L49_E_TORL_Projector_Lamp_for.html). Might be worth a shot


----------



## Alexdad54

Quick question, I've had my 8350 for a few years now and got over 3000 hours on the first bulb. A new aftermarket bulb uis working well but now I'm getting the auto-iris error message about once every 20 startups. I've tried searching but as far as I know there's still no solution other than breaking down the projector. 

Am I correct in my assumption and should I continue looking for a replacement?


----------



## JDontee

Has anyone made a hush box for their 8350?


----------



## F12Bwth

Im only at about 1,300 hours but I have had my 8350 for 3 years. I use to get random brightness changes in ECO mode but that went away with using normal mode. Now I get it with normal mode also. It probably gets brighter every 60 seconds or so. AutoIris has been off since I got the unit. Is it bulb time?


----------



## Tesla1856

F12Bwth said:


> Im only at about 1,300 hours but I have had my 8350 for 3 years. I use to get random brightness changes in ECO mode but that went away with using normal mode. Now I get it with normal mode also. It probably gets brighter every 60 seconds or so. AutoIris has been off since I got the unit. Is it bulb time?




Yes, I would say try a new lamp unless you would rather upgrade to a new projector. A new lamp fixed the flickering on mine. Read back a few pages to see my repair adventure. Yes, I mostly keep Auto-Iris OFF on mine also since new (seems to work fine without it).


----------



## F12Bwth

Tesla1856 said:


> Yes, I would say try a new lamp unless you would rather upgrade to a new projector. A new lamp fixed the flickering on mine. Read back a few pages to see my repair adventure. Yes, I mostly keep Auto-Iris OFF on mine also since new (seems to work fine without it).


The issue with getting a new projector is I don't know if anything out has the same lens shift swing of this. I have a very peculiar setup where the projector shines through a hole in the wall and has to aim WAY down to hit my screen. 

Do the newer epson's have the same range as the 8350?


----------



## mach250

has anyone found the speaker that beeps due to non-oem bulbs? I just want to stab the thing with an ice pick.


----------



## Saloonatic

*Thanks for the Schematic Mach250*

Thanks for the schematic.
After 4 years....I had to unzip my E P S O N..... to address 'dust issues'.
I used an air compressor
AFTER a thorough dry-vacuuming.
Quality is better....but not 100%
Your PDF is as good as titties and beer.

Best Regards,
Chad


----------



## weaponx53

mach250 said:


> has anyone found the speaker that beeps due to non-oem bulbs? I just want to stab the thing with an ice pick.


Funny, I just discovered this issue myself. Bought this bulb:
[AVSforum won't let me post a link]

Took the projector apart, did the dust glob fix for the first time, and replaced the lamp. Upon startup, brightness and picture were awesome. Then immediately I start noticing the BEEP. Thinking I'm crazy, bring my wife over to confirm and she can hear it as well. 

We start watching a movie and doing loud scenes you cannot hear it, but when it is quiet the BEEP is driving me crazy. Put the OEM bulb back in and BEEP is gone.

What is the damn fix for this? There has to be some little speaker on the mainboard producing the noise. Can we turn it off?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Anyone who has gotten the Auto-Iris error, have you actually gotten rid of it for good? I have gotten it 2 time now since yesterday and worried I'm going to have to start looking for a new projector.


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Skiingmaniac00 said:


> Anyone who has gotten the Auto-Iris error, have you actually gotten rid of it for good? I have gotten it 2 time now since yesterday and worried I'm going to have to start looking for a new projector.


Guess not. If I turn off the Auto-Iris when I get it on it doesn't come up again when again, which seems odd. So now I'm going to sell it.


----------



## Tesla1856

Skiingmaniac00 said:


> Guess not. If I turn off the Auto-Iris when I get it on it doesn't come up again when again, which seems odd. So now I'm going to sell it.




Please say that again, maybe in two sentences? 

I've never gotten the Auto-Iris Error.

It seem to work fine with the Auto-Iris off. With it off, I don't need to worry about getting the "Auto-Iris Error" ... right?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Tesla1856 said:


> Please say that again, maybe in two sentences?
> 
> I've never gotten the Auto-Iris Error.
> 
> It seem to work fine with the Auto-Iris off. With it off, I don't need to worry about getting the "Auto-Iris Error" ... right?


Sorry about that. When the Auto-Iris is turned on, when it boots up I get the Auto-Iris error. Lately when I turn the Auto-Iris off the error on boot up hasn't come up. I'm saying that's odd as I thought I remember someone stating that it goes through the initial test on boot up and that is one of the things that gets tested.


----------



## Tesla1856

Skiingmaniac00 said:


> Sorry about that. When the Auto-Iris is turned on, when it boots up I get the Auto-Iris error. Lately when I turn the Auto-Iris off the error on boot up hasn't come up. I'm saying that's odd as I thought I remember someone stating that it goes through the initial test on boot up and that is one of the things that gets tested.


Thanks. That answers my question.

In your case ... yours is the perfect test because yours is going out. Maybe it's just intermittent? Maybe it needs some grease or cleaning (not really sure how Auto-Iris mechanism is built or how it works). I assume you find a big difference with it operational, and since yours is bad, you would rather buy a new projector ... rather than just leaving it off?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Tesla1856 said:


> Thanks. That answers my question.
> 
> In your case ... yours is the perfect test because yours is going out. Maybe it's just intermittent? Maybe it needs some grease or cleaning (not really sure how Auto-Iris mechanism is built or how it works). I assume you find a big difference with it operational, and since yours is bad, you would rather buy a new projector ... rather than just leaving it off?


I have cleaned it. The unit only has just over 300hrs on it. I'm not really wanting to rip this thing apart. If I could leave it off then sure I would rather but that doesn't necessarily going to say that it won't happen again. I already purchased a new unit to replace it. So either way I'm selling the unit.

Update: I just checked the settings again and the Auto-Iris is off. after about 30 minutes I went back to start it up again and the Auto-Iris error came up.


----------



## Tesla1856

Skiingmaniac00 said:


> Update: I just checked the settings again and the Auto-Iris is off. after about 30 minutes I went back to start it up again and the Auto-Iris error came up.


So, it DOES get checked on Start-Up, whether it's on or off. More good info. but an unfortunate situation for you.

What make/model did you replace it with?


Edit: So, you replaced it with a Sony VPL-HW45es ?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Tesla1856 said:


> So, it DOES get checked on Start-Up, whether it's on or off. More good info. but an unfortunate situation for you.
> 
> What make/model did you replace it with?
> 
> 
> Edit: So, you replaced it with a Sony VPL-HW45es ?


Yes, I replaced it with the Sony VPL-HW45ES.


----------



## MississippiMan

JDontee said:


> Has anyone made a hush box for their 8350?


Eco Mode is virtually inaudible at 22 db. And Normal is just 28 db. Unless you use "High Altitude Mode" or the PJ is stationed within 3' of your head (...or you have Owl Ears...and some do...) I cannot fathom why you might need / want a Hush Box?

I cannot remember seeing anyone even bring that up in the 6 years since I started this Thread. In fact, for many, the quietness of the 8350 was always a much appreciated virtue, second only to the ultra low Lag Time.

So what's the basis for the question? Inquiring minds want to know.


----------



## JDontee

I like the brightness of normal mode. For very quiet scenes I can hear it. I've built a hush box, and dampened the sound.


----------



## luclin999

Just bought one of these off Ebay for $225 which was listed as "Working but dim" with original box, remote, manuals, Etc. so I went ahead and took a gamble on purchasing it. 

Arrived today and worked but "dim" as described. 

Went into the service menu and it showed 2231 hours total use, 1 lamp replacement and 487 hours on that bulb. 

Let it cool down, checked inside and just as I expected, cheap knockoff bulb. 

Popped in an OEM Epson lamp and *Ta-Da*.. Perfect image, nice and bright. 

Very happy with the picture. Not quite up to the image that my 8500UB puts out in my dedicated theater but this 8350 will be replacing my old Epson 1080 (non-UB) in the living room so it will be a nice upgrade overall for that non-light controlled space.


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

MississippiMan said:


> Eco Mode is virtually inaudible at 22 db. And Normal is just 28 db. Unless you use "High Altitude Mode" or the PJ is stationed within 3' of your head (...or you have Owl Ears...and some do...) I cannot fathom why you might need / want a Hush Box?
> 
> I cannot remember seeing anyone even bring that up in the 6 years since I started this Thread. In fact, for many, the quietness of the 8350 was always a much appreciated virtue, second only to the ultra low Lag Time.


I agree on the low noise levels that came from it. In our old house we had it right above where we sat hanging from the mount and never had any sound issues. When I framed out the basement I made a box for the projector (and future ones) so it was closed off. I like the clean look of a box instead of it hanging and any wires showing.


----------



## stucazzo

*Fan issue*

Quick Question:

My 8350 fan seems to have failed. I ve researched some of the pages on this thread, sorry if its been answered but it is 300 pages deep. I learned that there are 4 fans, air inlet, power supply, lamp blower fan and exhaust fan. The one that seems to have gone is the loudest one. The projector turns on, and runs for a little and then overheats and shuts down. Now if I shut it down before it overheats, it just turns off. I know the fan always kicked on after I turned it off, as a cool down period. but now there is no fan noise after it shuts down. The exhaust fan seems to work as it blows hot air out. I cant tell if its the air inlet (best way to test?)


Again, it seems to be the fan that stays on after the unit shuts down. Which one would be my best bet and how hard is it to fix? I ve fixed tons of iPhones and other electronics so i am sure I can handle this but is it worth my time?

thanks


----------



## Jimmyjames121

Hi guys, anyone try a Darbee with their 8350? ie: Oppo 103 darbee edition or something similar? Good results? 

Thanks!


----------



## Tesla1856

stucazzo said:


> Quick Question:
> 
> My 8350 fan seems to have failed. I ve researched some of the pages on this thread, sorry if its been answered but it is 300 pages deep. I learned that there are 4 fans, air inlet, power supply, lamp blower fan and exhaust fan. The one that seems to have gone is the loudest one. The projector turns on, and runs for a little and then overheats and shuts down. Now if I shut it down before it overheats, it just turns off. I know the fan always kicked on after I turned it off, as a cool down period. but now there is no fan noise after it shuts down. The exhaust fan seems to work as it blows hot air out. I cant tell if its the air inlet (best way to test?)
> 
> 
> Again, it seems to be the fan that stays on after the unit shuts down. Which one would be my best bet and how hard is it to fix? I ve fixed tons of iPhones and other electronics so i am sure I can handle this but is it worth my time?
> 
> thanks


See my posts about my repair a page or so back.

Verify all fans are working/turning. It's likely lighting Temp light because it senses one of the fans is not turning (maybe by reading RPM ... like a PWM computer fan) ... not that it is actually over-heating per say.


Too bad Service Menu doesn't have something helpful about fan RPMs (like some PC BIOSes).


----------



## oldlostcory

Just picked a refurbished up from Epson. I wanted that 2 year warranty. I'm upgrading from a Sanyo Z4 that is having issues. Had that one for going on 8 years. I'm really hoping the 8350 is a quality upgrade. Does make me nervous that the bulbs seem to struggle to make it to 2k hours when my Z4's would easily reach 3500-4k.

Anyone watch hockey on this? What I will mainly be using it for, that an occasional movies.


----------



## wildswing

oldlostcory said:


> Anyone watch hockey on this? What I will mainly be using it for, that an occasional movies.


Huge hockey fan here. I watch a lot of hockey in the home theater. The 8350 is a little workhorse. I project on to a 120" Silver Ticket white screen. Seating position is about 12' from the screen. The 8350 is about a foot above and behind me.

Off topic a little... When shopping for a screen I wondered if hockey would be too much white on a white screen, so considered a grey version. I asked the question of other buyers on Amazon and most with the white screen said it was not an issue. I now agree. White screen is not too white for hockey. Besides, you can play with the colors to suite your tastes.


----------



## oldlostcory

wildswing said:


> Huge hockey fan here. I watch a lot of hockey in the home theater. The 8350 is a little workhorse. I project on to a 120" Silver Ticket white screen. Seating position is about 12' from the screen. The 8350 is about a foot above and behind me.
> 
> Off topic a little... When shopping for a screen I wondered if hockey would be too much white on a white screen, so considered a grey version. I asked the question of other buyers on Amazon and most with the white screen said it was not an issue. I now agree. White screen is not too white for hockey. Besides, you can play with the colors to suite your tastes.


Thanks for the reply. My current screen is white, worked well with the Z4. I have some issues following the puck on the Z4 at times, shouldn't be the case with this. I'm hoping I can avoid all the problems this unit seems to have. Has me a tad nervous. As long as they are fixable I should be fine, pretty good with electronics.


----------



## pjl63

Is this projector still worth considering in 2017? I just bought a house with a finished basement, which I'm planning on turning into a theater room. I have a total light control in the room. Screen is going to be about 100 inches. Probably going to ceiling mount whatever projector I go with. I like the high contrast ratio and lens shift flexibility this projector offers, compared against a new projector in this price range.


----------



## gizmo8500

pjl63 said:


> Is this projector still worth considering in 2017? I just bought a house with a finished basement, which I'm planning on turning into a theater room. I have a total light control in the room. Screen is going to be about 100 inches. Probably going to ceiling mount whatever projector I go with. I like the high contrast ratio and lens shift flexibility this projector offers, compared against a new projector in this price range.




I think it is a great starter projector at this point considering its age. I'm thinking of upgrading to a 5040UB myself and would be willing to sell my 8350 with an unused bulb (aftermarket) for $450 + shipping. PM me if you're interested.


----------



## DrewB

An unused aftermarket bulb is not that comforting.


----------



## gizmo8500

DrewB said:


> An unused aftermarket bulb is not that comforting.


I'm not sure I understand the animosity towards after market bulbs. I've had this bulb: [V13H010L49] from projectorlampsworld.com for over 3 years now and it's been great. I paid $150 at the time for it and now it's down to $89. I don't know how many hours are on it, but I could check when I get home if people are curious. About 2 months ago it did start flickering, but instead of immediately replacing it I continued using it and the flickering went away. I wonder if some people just replace the moment they see flickering and don't give it a chance. Regardless I'm happy with 3 years for half the price of the OEM.


----------



## DrewB

gizmo8500 said:


> I'm not sure I understand the animosity towards after market bulbs. I've had this bulb: [V13H010L49] from projectorlampsworld.com for over 3 years now and it's been great. I paid $150 at the time for it and now it's down to $89. I don't know how many hours are on it, but I could check when I get home if people are curious. About 2 months ago it did start flickering, but instead of immediately replacing it I continued using it and the flickering went away. I wonder if some people just replace the moment they see flickering and don't give it a chance. Regardless I'm happy with 3 years for half the price of the OEM.


"Animosity" is a bit strong. The fact is that many users on this forum have tried non OEM bulbs...some with limited success, some with abysmal failure. So it's a flip of the coin which is a bit of a gamble IMHO.


----------



## DevonJames5

The aftermarket bulbs for the Epson 8350 are fine, maybe a little less bright, but you can play with settings and picture quality will still be just as good! That being said, I think $450 + shipping is a bit steep for how old the projector is. A buddy of mine just picked one up for $200 recently (with the original OEM bulb and 400 hours on it). This was a crazy good deal though.


----------



## mj75

NEED HELP ON MY 8350!

Everything was working well until I hooked the PJ on a refurb Pioneer sc 80 that was replacing my old Denon. It was working just fine on the number 1 output on the receiver when I started, then I tried to hook it up on the zone 2 out when it started having problems. So TV is on output 1 and projector was on output 2, but when I tried to switch from TV to projector the receiver just got stuck to "please wait.." for a few minutes. I turned off the pioneer avr then tried to switch back the projector to output 1, thinking output 2 is faulty, but it gave me the "no signal" message. I thought it was the cable at fault, so I tried to connect by WD media player and xbox one directly to the EPSON and it worked. 

I thought it was the pioneer at fault so I hooked it up to my old Denon, then the same message "no signal" came up. So the PJ stopped being able to receive signal though my DENON and Pioneer all of a sudden. 

Funny thing is the projector wouldn't work directly from an AVR, cable box (Fios), or my PS 3. But would connect to the x box 1 s and WD media player. I eliminated the HDMI as faulty. I don't know if trying to output on number 2 on the pioneer sc 80 damaged the Epson HDMI board some way.


----------



## Tesla1856

mj75 said:


> NEED HELP ON MY 8350!
> 
> Everything was working well until I hooked the PJ on a refurb Pioneer sc 80 that was replacing my old Denon. It was working just fine on the number 1 output on the receiver when I started, then I tried to hook it up on the zone 2 out when it started having problems. So TV is on output 1 and projector was on output 2, but when I tried to switch from TV to projector the receiver just got stuck to "please wait.." for a few minutes. I turned off the pioneer avr then tried to switch back the projector to output 1, thinking output 2 is faulty, but it gave me the "no signal" message. I thought it was the cable at fault, so I tried to connect by WD media player and xbox one directly to the EPSON and it worked.
> 
> I thought it was the pioneer at fault so I hooked it up to my old Denon, then the same message "no signal" came up. So the PJ stopped being able to receive signal though my DENON and Pioneer all of a sudden.
> 
> Funny thing is the projector wouldn't work directly from an AVR, cable box (Fios), or my PS 3. But would connect to the x box 1 s and WD media player. I eliminated the HDMI as faulty. I don't know if trying to output on number 2 on the pioneer sc 80 damaged the Epson HDMI board some way.




To test HDMI ports on Epson 8350 Projector ...


Connect known-good HDMI component (Blu-Ray player, etc.) directly to 8350 with short (around 10 ft) high quality (heavy gauge) HDMI cable (non-generic, spec-ed at 1.3b or 1.4, non-Redmere). Test both HDMI ports while you are at it. It's old-school, but I always power-down stuff while connecting even HDMI cables.


----------



## mj75

Tesla1856 said:


> To test HDMI ports on Epson 8350 Projector ...
> 
> 
> Connect known-good HDMI component (Blu-Ray player, etc.) directly to 8350 with short (around 10 ft) high quality (heavy gauge) HDMI cable (non-generic, spec-ed at 1.3b or 1.4, non-Redmere). Test both HDMI ports while you are at it. It's old-school, but I always power-down stuff while connecting even HDMI cables.



Thanks. I tried to connect WD media player and the Xbox to the projector directly and it works either with a long hdmi or a short hdmi. All of a suddent the projector wouldn't get any signal to from any kind of AV receiver. I have a feeling that when I used the hdzone 2 on the pioneer that it somehow jacked up my HDMI board--since it got stuck to "pls wait" for minutes without doing anything when I tried to switch output sources.


----------



## Tesla1856

mj75 said:


> Thanks. I tried to connect WD media player and the Xbox to the projector directly and it works either with a long hdmi or a short hdmi.




Good. Then HDMI board should still be good (ie, it survived).

If that failed to work, I would continue by trying:
1. Reset 8350 to Factory defaults
2. Turn off HDMI-CEC on all connected components.


----------



## agidi

*Fixed sliding filter got off color*

Hello epson gurus of the world

I have an epson 8350 which turns on but when we switch color modes, it fails with two red leds blinking.

I thought it was the auto iris, and took it apart, cleaned and lubricated it twice, before i found out it was not the iris, it was a sliding thing just behind it.

Took that one out, carefully cleaned it , lubricated it and re insterted it.

The first two times i did the iris cleanup the colors were perfect, but the proyector failed.
The last time i cleaned this sliding filter, now the colors are off ... but it has not failed.. So i fixed one issue and created another.

Im pretty sure i seated everything as I should but i see everything in magenta-ish see attached images.
I can see the three LCDs light up, green red blue, at firts i thought i had missed a ribbon cable, but nope.

Any idea what i did wrong? all pointers and suggestions are greatly appreciated.


----------



## JDontee

Where does everyone buy their replacement bulbs and what's a good price?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

I just took my 8350 apart to try and find the Auto Iris as I have been getting that error on startups. I found the Auto Iris motor and gears, cleaned them up, and tested. Seems to be working fine now after doing about 10 startups. Hopefully it sticks as I do plan on selling it in the next few days.


----------



## Tesla1856

Skiingmaniac00 said:


> I just took my 8350 apart to try and find the Auto Iris as I have been getting that error on startups. I found the Auto Iris motor and gears, cleaned them up, and tested. Seems to be working fine now after doing about 10 startups. Hopefully it sticks as I do plan on selling it in the next few days.


Good work.

No pics? Did you re-lube with maybe plastic-safe silicone grease or oil?


----------



## Skiingmaniac00

Tesla1856 said:


> Good work.
> 
> No pics? Did you re-lube with maybe plastic-safe silicone grease or oil?


Sorry no pictures of what I did as I wasn't really sure what I was looking for. I had to take the circuit board off and the Auto Iris is right next to the Lamp. It has 3 screws that come out, has a round motor (All parts are gray), and has a shutter. I checked the gears but that seemed fine so I cleaned the grease and put new silicone grease on it.


----------



## MississippiMan

JDontee said:


> Where does everyone buy their replacement bulbs and what's a good price?


I simply look for the best priced Lamp that also comes with a 180 day Warranty. They are very inexpensive...and for the price of one Epson Lamp you can purchase 3-4 of the OEM'ers.

If they have that Warranty, your risk factor is minute.....
.......aggravation tax? Perhaps a bit more likely, but usually the 180 day'ers are better than the 90 Day Wonders


----------



## Tesla1856

JDontee said:


> Where does everyone buy their replacement bulbs and what's a good price?




I prefer a genuine Epson lamp from Epson.com or B&H Photo. Should be around $250-$300. 8350 works perfectly again. Look one page back.


----------



## freddy99

MississippiMan said:


> I simply look for the best priced Lamp that also comes with a 180 day Warranty. They are very inexpensive...and for the price of one Epson Lamp you can purchase 3-4 of the OEM'ers.
> 
> If they have that Warranty, your risk factor is minute.....
> .......aggravation tax? Perhaps a bit more likely, but usually the 180 day'ers are better than the 90 Day Wonders


Did you find that with non-OEM lamp, the projector makes a faint high pitch periodic noise? I went through two non-Epson lamps with the same annoying behavior. i remember reading somewhere that it could be somethinng built-in with the motherboard that recognizes when the lamp is not genuine. Anyhow, it is weak enough that I can get accustomed to but I'd prefer that it wasn't present.

Fred


----------



## dgkula

I purchased new in 2010 and just had my first lamp failure last night. I bought a genuine Epson lamp from B&H Photo, hopefully it will arrive later this week. I continue to be blown away at the picture this puts out - I have recently completed a renovation and now have a dedicated 12 x 14 light-controlled theater room in my basement, Guests are blown away by the picture as well. I keep getting the itch to upgrade to an Epson or JVC eShift projector but am having a hard time believing that the increase in picture quality will be worth the $2500 (Epson 5040UB) - $5500 (JVC RS520).


----------



## F12Bwth

So I need to know how to get to the lens inside the outer focusing lens to clean it. Here are some shots of what has been developing over the last few months. 
Just blurs the right side and makes it hazy and adds that green shadow on high contrast scenes. 



















I had thought it was on the outside since my projector is located right around the corner from my kitchen and I know that smoke and grease can build up. But this has made it inside the lens assembly. Any clue is appreciated.


----------



## dgkula

dgkula said:


> I purchased new in 2010 and just had my first lamp failure last night. I bought a genuine Epson lamp from B&H Photo, hopefully it will arrive later this week. I continue to be blown away at the picture this puts out - I have recently completed a renovation and now have a dedicated 12 x 14 light-controlled theater room in my basement, Guests are blown away by the picture as well. I keep getting the itch to upgrade to an Epson or JVC eShift projector but am having a hard time believing that the increase in picture quality will be worth the $2500 (Epson 5040UB) - $5500 (JVC RS520).


New OEM lens from B&H installed and it is running great. Also cleaned the air filter. I do really like this projector!


----------



## joerobert3

*Focus ring removal*

I have two 8350 projectors. Each with issues but one is missing the focus ring. Seems to be working as it should but has a out of focus picture. I cannot figure out how to remove the focus ring from my other unit. 
Also were can I find another ring for a reasonable price. The second unit was working great until the screen turned to a deep blue tint.


----------



## Tesla1856

F12Bwth said:


> So I need to know how to get to the lens inside the outer focusing lens to clean it. Here are some shots of what has been developing over the last few months.
> Just blurs the right side and makes it hazy and adds that green shadow on high contrast scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had thought it was on the outside since my projector is located right around the corner from my kitchen and I know that smoke and grease can build up. But this has made it inside the lens assembly. Any clue is appreciated.


It looks like the front of your lens might be permanently scratched. I think they are truly glass, but still scratch-able. 

Just a reminder ... lens should only be cleaned with a 100% cotton optics-grade cleaning cloth. Gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol or eye-glass cleaning fluid.

It would have to be disassembled and cleaned like a fine DSLR Camera lens ... maybe by a professional.

I'm not sure that screen image is affected by a bit of dust. Like when we focus on and view screen, we don't focus on and see dust particles in the air. I wonder if your poor image quality might be some other malfunction.


----------



## Tesla1856

joerobert3 said:


> I have two 8350 projectors. Each with issues but one is missing the focus ring. Seems to be working as it should but has a out of focus picture. I cannot figure out how to remove the focus ring from my other unit.
> Also were can I find another ring for a reasonable price. The second unit was working great until the screen turned to a deep blue tint.


Since the lens assembly is on a movable "lens shift track" I think I would just swap-in the good lens from the other projector.


----------



## F12Bwth

Tesla1856 said:


> It looks like the front of your lens might be permanently scratched. I think they are truly glass, but still scratch-able.
> 
> Just a reminder ... lens should only be cleaned with a 100% cotton optics-grade cleaning cloth. Gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol or eye-glass cleaning fluid.
> 
> It would have to be disassembled and cleaned like a fine DSLR Camera lens ... maybe by a professional.
> 
> I'm not sure that screen image is affected by a bit of dust. Like when we focus on and view screen, we don't focus on and see dust particles in the air. I wonder if your poor image quality might be some other malfunction.


The outside lens isn't scratched I baby that thing. But yeah I imagine a lot of complex disassembly is required to get inside and clean the lens.


----------



## joerobert3

Tesla1856 said:


> Since the lens assembly is on a movable "lens shift track" I think I would just swap-in the good lens from the other projector.


Thanks. I will look up how to do that instead.


----------



## Tesla1856

F12Bwth said:


> The outside lens isn't scratched I baby that thing. But yeah I imagine a lot of complex disassembly is required to get inside and clean the lens.


Cool.

As for your image quality pic, try taking a picture with a real camera and a tripod. We might be able to troubleshoot better.


----------



## F12Bwth

Tesla1856 said:


> Cool.
> 
> As for your image quality pic, try taking a picture with a real camera and a tripod. We might be able to troubleshoot better.


Its basically a green haze blob over 20% of the screen area, like as if a really bad smudge is on the lens. Just happened to form on the inside lens where the air is moving slowly. The projector is right around the corner from my kitchen so I imagine it is grease of some sort just gathered in there.


----------



## Tesla1856

F12Bwth said:


> Its basically a green haze blob over 20% of the screen area, like as if a really bad smudge is on the lens. Just happened to form on the inside lens where the air is moving slowly. The projector is right around the corner from my kitchen so I imagine it is grease of some sort just gathered in there.


Possibly. However, I thought abnormalities like that were related to one of the 3LCD lcds, their lenses, or other primary color optics.

Find the pics or diagrams of how it works and I think you will see what I mean.

Some have reported that "dust balls" in one of those primary paths cause similar, IIRC.


----------



## redeye42

Hello all,

My 8350 from 2011 has given me the cinema filter error message and now does not work. The projector is fine for my situation and I don't really have the cash to upgrade so I am wondering if anyone could point me to a link with enough detailed info that I could fix this. I have never had to open the pj but I am fairly handy with this sort of stuff.

Any help and pointers appreciated.


----------



## bjmsam

bjmsam said:


> 
> 
> 
> bjmsam said:
> 
> 
> 
> We were away during an electrical storm earlier this week but returned home to a blown Comcast cable splitter, a Sony BDP-S390 Blu-ray player that won't power on and an Epson 8350 projector that won't recognize any HDMI inputs (but seems fine otherwise).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Square-D whole-house surge suppressor is not blown and all A/V equipment in the theater gets power through a Panamax 5100 connected to an APS Line-R 1200. The cable is connected to only the Comcast DVR in the bedroom and the modem in the study, and the Blu-ray player is connected through the router in the A/V rack, a switch and the router in the study which are all fine, so it's hard to understand how HDMI was affected if not via induction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All other inputs work fine, but from this photo, it appears that the HDMI section is integrated on the main board, so is this worth fixing, or would I be better off spending $900 on a refurb?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xccxxx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or should I switch to the component inputs?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did:



bjmsam said:


> 
> 
> 
> dapriett said:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess those HDMI ports are not build to take much of a surge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I "fixed" the problem _for good_ by switching to component video, which looks just as good to me and cost under $200:
> 
> HDFURY Gamer 2 Component - $159.00
> HDMI® | 3 RCA Component | Toslink Wall Plate - Coupler Type - $10.04
> 35ft 18AWG CL2 Premium 3-RCA Component Video Coaxial Cable (RG-6/U) - $21.27
> 
> I subsequently discovered that the USB section of my laser printer also bit the dust during that storm. I "fixed" that problem with a $7 USB to Centronix cable.
> 
> Retro techno?
Click to expand...

Well, the workaround lasted three years but was not a permanent fix. The HDFury failed last year, so I replaced it with the newly available and far cheaper Portta converter, which worked equally well until earlier this week when the projector stopped recognizing the component inputs, too (I tested the converter on another TV using the same source and it still works fine). Bummer!

1. Has anyone managed to successfully _repair_ the main board as an alternative to replacement? It should be worth fixing!

2. Has anyone discovered a way to effectively suppress damaging current induced on long runs of signal wire? The only products I have seen are suspicious in-line gadgets that lack an obvious path for dissipating the energy.

I considered buying an HDMI to VGA converter as yet another workaround, but the manual does not list 1080p as resolution supported by that input. So... I'm replacing the 8350 with a refurbished 3020 for $499, which _may_ be a step down (it supports 3D but offers less contrast and no lens shift), but I simply can't justify spending more on components that are so susceptible to damage...


----------



## Tesla1856

bjmsam said:


> That's exactly what I did:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the workaround lasted three years but was not a permanent fix. The HDFury failed last year, so I replaced it with the newly available and far cheaper Portta converter, which worked equally well until earlier this week when the projector stopped recognizing the component inputs, too (I tested the converter on another TV using the same source and it still works fine). Bummer!
> 
> 1. Has anyone managed to successfully _repair_ the main board as an alternative to replacement? It should be worth fixing!
> 
> 2. Has anyone discovered a way to effectively suppress damaging current induced on long runs of signal wire? The only products I have seen are suspicious in-line gadgets that lack an obvious path for dissipating the energy.
> 
> 3. I considered buying an HDMI to VGA converter as yet another workaround, but the manual does not list 1080p as resolution supported by that input.
> 4. So... I'm replacing the 8350 with a refurbished 3020 for $499, which _may_ be a step down (it supports 3D but offers less contrast and no lens shift), but I simply can't justify spending more on components that are so susceptible to damage...


That's crazy it blew back then, even with a "whole house suppressor". 

1. No, but it would be like board level repair on anything else. However, I think it would be easier to pickup a 8350 (cheap) one with optical engine problems (ie beyond repair), and just swap the logic board.

2. I've seen some APC-UPS units with Coax protection, but never tried it. Are you sure it was another surge? Once board is damaged, it can fail completely at any time (doesn't even need a reason).

3. No, I don't think VGA can go up to 1080p, but would be easy enough to check.

4. Oh, so you have a solution. Are you sure everything is wired right, and house and outlets have a good ground? Cable box should be grounded also.


----------



## bjmsam

Everything is wired correctly, and both the electrical and cable circuits are protected, hence the induction hypothesis supported by the article I referenced above from which the following is excerpted:



Prentiss Gray said:


> Because everything was fully protected by two independent surge suppressors, the damage probably came from a surge picked up by the cables themselves, induced by the powerful electromagnetic field of the lightning. Longer wires make better antennas for that kind of energy, so shorter is always better.
> 
> PS. Lightning rods might have saved the planter and the cilantro, but probably not the equipment. Channeling that kind of energy around your house is likely to create even more havoc with the more delicate electronics. We’ll need a whole-house Faraday cage to be completely protected. Now there’s an idea………..



I would like to hear the experience of those who have pursued a "board level repair!"


----------



## KBone

Can anyone offer advice on this?

I'm trying to help my parents fix / troubleshoot this from halfway across the country. I'm in Utah and my parents are in IL.

At first I thought this was a HDMI cable issue so they swapped in a brand new HDMI cable to the projector from the receiver. That didn't fix it. From there, I had them directly plug things into the HDMI slots on the projector and this is the only thing that will be displayed, which is exactly what it did when everything ran through the receiver, so I ruled the cable and receiver out as issues.

A giant blue image with this text. I'm at a loss trying to help them and my steps have led me to believe it is an issue with the projector itself.

Again, not being there and trying to tell them what to press or do has been a challenge. I just want to know if it's an issue anyone knows how to resolve.


----------



## Tesla1856

KBone said:


> Can anyone offer advice on this?
> 
> I'm trying to help my parents fix / troubleshoot this from halfway across the country. I'm in Utah and my parents are in IL.
> 
> At first I thought this was a HDMI cable issue so they swapped in a brand new HDMI cable to the projector from the receiver. That didn't fix it. From there, I had them directly plug things into the HDMI slots on the projector and this is the only thing that will be displayed, which is exactly what it did when everything ran through the receiver, so I ruled the cable and receiver out as issues.
> 
> A giant blue image with this text. I'm at a loss trying to help them and my steps have led me to believe it is an issue with the projector itself.
> 
> Again, not being there and trying to tell them what to press or do has been a challenge. I just want to know if it's an issue anyone knows how to resolve.


I don't remember ever seeing that message, but I don't really re-config my stuff often.

- Get iPhone FaceTime or Webcam on laptop working.
- Be sure to use plain, short as possible (10 ft) , good gauge, non-Redmere, HDMI cables
- HDMI cables pre-tested in different room/gear would be great.
- Be sure they know how to switch between HDMI-1 and HDMI-2
- Try HDMI-2
- Connect Blu-Ray Player or other simple HDMI device directly to projector (will only get video, but it's a start)
- Double-check and take phone pics of current Setup Menu Settings
- Default the Setup Menu Settings

Good luck and try to stay patient.


----------



## KBone

Tesla1856 said:


> I don't remember ever seeing that message, but I don't really re-config my stuff often.
> 
> - Get iPhone FaceTime or Webcam on laptop working.
> - Be sure to use plain, short as possible (10 ft) , good gauge, non-Redmere, HDMI cables
> - HDMI cables pre-tested in different room/gear would be great.
> - Be sure they know how to switch between HDMI-1 and HDMI-2
> - Try HDMI-2
> - Connect Blu-Ray Player or other simple HDMI device directly to projector (will only get video, but it's a start)
> - Double-check and take phone pics of current Setup Menu Settings
> - Default the Setup Menu Settings
> 
> Good luck and try to stay patient.


I'm currently on Facetime with them. 

I've done pretty much everything you've suggested. I've had them plug things directly into the projector and we still get this message. I went through the entire menu with them on Facetime (most video options were all grayed out). 

It has worked perfectly fine for years until now which leaves me more at a loss. Wondering if something on/in the projector has failed. 

Lamp obviously still works, powers on, just wondering if the HDMI ports/inputs can go bad.

If my dad asks "Should we call Geek Squad?" one more time I might hop on a plane to wring his neck! :laugh:


----------



## bjmsam

Sorry, that is the same message my projector has displayed ever since the HDMI ports failed as described in my post above (the source was connected to only one of those inputs, so the fault most likely is with the chip rather than the socket). The component input workaround was effective for years if you want to suggest it to your folks (the Portta converter is reasonably cheap so with a try).



KBone said:


> A giant blue image with this text. I'm at a loss trying to help them and my steps have led me to believe it is an issue with the projector itself.


----------



## seberoon

*replacing MULTI LENS;B*

Does anyone here have any experience of replacing one of these (it's cracked). I've posted more background over on a separate thread (thread epson-8100-replaced-bulb-now-pink-blue-bands.html, post 53949921) but it's gone quiet over there and I thought I might have more luck here (my model is EH-TW3500, not the 8350, but similar and they share this component).


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> That's exactly what I did:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the workaround lasted three years but was not a permanent fix. The HDFury failed last year, so I replaced it with the newly available and far cheaper Portta converter, which worked equally well until earlier this week when the projector stopped recognizing the component inputs, too (I tested the converter on another TV using the same source and it still works fine). Bummer!
> 
> 1. Has anyone managed to successfully _repair_ the main board as an alternative to replacement? It should be worth fixing!
> 
> 2. Has anyone discovered a way to effectively suppress damaging current induced on long runs of signal wire? The only products I have seen are suspicious in-line gadgets that lack an obvious path for dissipating the energy.
> 
> I considered buying an HDMI to VGA converter as yet another workaround, but the manual does not list 1080p as resolution supported by that input. So... I'm replacing the 8350 with a refurbished 3020 for $499, which _may_ be a step down (it supports 3D but offers less contrast and no lens shift), but I simply can't justify spending more on components that are so susceptible to damage...


hello bjmsam. Seems I'm in need and hoping you will help. I bought my parents an 8350 release week, been one of my best overall buys ever. For some reason during this time of year, they are always fighting lightning stikes. In fact, the first died to lighting, but it was still under warrenty. Enough back story, the lighting hit AGAIN and only took out the HDMI port 2. Now they don't spend much or go out much, their "thing/vice" is TV.[ I bought this cause they where having trouble seeing a 35' crt].

Now I'm part weather man calling them up and reminding them to unplug cables....... Any tips or advice, you have for me would help. I was thinking of getting it fixed, but it seems that a waste if the whole board needs replacing. I have drove into the backup hdmi-to-rca stuff, [just gathering information] is the picture nearly the same? Looking around for old 8350, updating myself to the new models. Im amazed at how its held up over during the light-speed evolution. I want to keep them happy and save the "odin" projector if possible.


----------



## bjmsam

Basbear said:


> I have drove into the backup hdmi-to-rca stuff, [just gathering information] is the picture nearly the same?


Yes. If the HDMI inputs are toast, then switch to the component inputs, and disconnect when not in use (bummer).

The 3020 is proving to be an ideal replacement for the 8350; it's very quiet and the picture is sharp, bright and accurate with equivalent contrast.


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> Yes. If the HDMI inputs are toast, then switch to the component inputs, and disconnect when not in use (bummer).
> 
> The 3020 is proving to be an ideal replacement for the 8350; it's very quiet and the picture is sharp, bright and accurate with equivalent contrast.


one, #1HDMI port is still working. in the past year, i also introduce them to roku. they have a hard enough time turning it off/on.... So I'm researching my options. looks like if you want a bang for buck projector its benq2050 or optoma hd142x, but the 8350 is still working and i even got a backup lamp.

Whats your opinion on 2 in 1 out HDMI, would that easily work? Without error messages/ other issues?

Plus i found a few Chinese items on ebay, hdmi to rca and the splitter. Had success in past gambling on that, or would you avoid and use ______??

Looking for an easy, simple solution that's reliable. Thanks


----------



## bjmsam

It's interesting that only one port failed. How did the two source devices and cables differ?

Adding an HDMI switch to route all sources through one functioning port should work. There are many offerings on Amazon, Monoprice, etc. if you're uncomfortable ordering from an international vendor on eBay, AliExpress, etc.

I considered Optima (inferior contrast) and BenQ (DLP rainbow) but discovered that it's hard to beat Epson. Just be sure to disconnect when not in use!


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> It's interesting that only one port failed. How did the two source devices and cables differ?
> 
> Adding an HDMI switch to route all sources through one functioning port should work. There are many offerings on Amazon, Monoprice, etc. if you're uncomfortable ordering from an international vendor on eBay, AliExpress, etc.
> 
> I considered Optima (inferior contrast) and BenQ (DLP rainbow) but discovered that it's hard to beat Epson. Just be sure to disconnect when not in use!


I have the cable box into a 1 in 2 out splitter (rip) 1 outros to a cheapo 50' HDTV(it was unharmed), the other to Epson 8350 port 2. Epson Port 1 was connected to an express+ Roku. Even label the remotes with masking tape in big red words...... Been dealing with lighting for some time, over time my best guess is it comes via cable coax then into HDMI. Lost too much to list with my language skills.

Then with some free time came back here and noticed you had a similar issue. Gathering information and refreshing my projector knowledge for future options. I have bought an HDMI surge protector(months ago), I just got to install it, maybe that will help. I did buy normal surge protectors for plugs, but it didn't stop the lighting issues. I'm not comfortable ordering from international, just been lucky.

Regarding current projectors, I'm still in the information gathering stage. Open to all inputs from the right people. Epson, I can not speak for all but I have nothing but good to say about them. I did research back in 2010 and after 2 weeks made the leap to buy an 8350 days after its release. I was very impressed and satisfied early on. Lighting took it out about two years later and one of the reasons for picking Epson was the 3-year warranty. In past dealing, I was preparing for BSing..... Never happened, it went very smooth. They sent me another one(i bet it was a refurb, but don't truly care) before I sent the broken one back(gave the CC#, again no problem). I took out my good used lamp and sent back a bad one.

Lamps were another reason for choosing Epson, cause unlike most here, I planned on keeping the 8350 long enough to buy another lamp. I had dealt with protectors since 2007ish, (cue old man) and lamp prices were insane back then. I bought the current one for 20$ couple years ago. i checked it recently, got 6500hrs and still looking good. I had to turn off the iris function, but overall very happy with the 8350. I will look into the 3020, even with my good fortune, I'm not label loyal. Honestly, wish there were more options in the 1080p group, but current rage is all upscale 4k fantasy, ugh. I've played/ing that game in efforts to "future proof"....... a great 1080p was great years ago, great now, and will be great years from now.


----------



## bjmsam

Basbear said:


> I have the cable box into a 1 in 2 out splitter (rip) 1 outros to a cheapo 50' HDTV(it was unharmed), the other to Epson 8350 port 2. Epson Port 1 was connected to an express+ Roku. Even label the remotes with masking tape in big red words... Been dealing with lighting for some time, over time my best guess is it comes via cable coax then into HDMI.


Do the cable lengths differ significantly? In my case, the culprit appears to be EM induction rather than a surge through the electrical or cable networks.



Basbear said:


> I have bought an HDMI surge protector(months ago), I just got to install it, maybe that will help. I did buy normal surge protectors for plugs, but it didn't stop the lighting issues.





whinnycritter said:


> I recently broke down and purchased an HDMI Surge Protector... I'd consider using a wireless link to replace a long cable.


How do HDMI protectors work? I am suspicious of such devices that claim to handle ESD without a dedicated ground. Wireless (or fiber?) would attack the problem rather than the symptom.



Basbear said:


> Regarding current projectors, I'm still in the information gathering stage........ a great 1080p was great years ago, great now, and will be great years from now.


I agree. The 8350 projects a great image and I did my best to keep it in service. To my eyes, the 3020 is equivalent (brighter, but the 8350 bulb had ~2500 hours).


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> Do the cable lengths differ significantly? In my case, the culprit appears to be EM induction rather than a surge through the electrical or cable networks.
> 
> 
> 
> How do HDMI protectors work? I am suspicious of such devices that claim to handle ESD without a dedicated ground. Wireless (or fiber?) would attack the problem rather than the symptom.
> 
> 
> I agree. The 8350 projects a great image and I did my best to keep it in service. To my eyes, the 3020 is equivalent (brighter, but the 8350 bulb had ~2500 hours).


It goes 6 foot form cable box to splitter- 6 footer to 50 cheapo and 20 foot to 8350. Most recent lighting ruin the splitter and port 2. I tired 3 different cables- 25 foot 2007 monoprice(fat and cost me 50$) and 2 overseas 20' (thin 1.4 $5). Roku and cable box cannt get a signal on port 2. Im willing to try again. Everything will work on port 1. 

I have no clue how the HDMI protector work, just finsihed installing it. I'm at that stage where, I'll try anything..... I put the dedicated ground on a copper water pipe. Took longer than I wanted, but that's the norm.


----------



## bjmsam

bjmsam said:


> Do the cable lengths differ significantly?





Basbear said:


> It goes 6 foot form cable box to splitter- 6 footer to 50 cheapo and 20 foot to 8350. Most recent lighting ruin the splitter and port 2.


It makes sense that the devices at either end of the long HDMI cable failed. Your splitter likely spared your cable box! In my case, it was the 8350 and a Sony Blu-ray player connected by a 30' HDMI cable through the basement drop ceiling.

For comparison, what is the cable configuration for port 1 that still works?


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> It makes sense that the devices at either end of the long HDMI cable failed. Your splitter likely spared your cable box! In my case, it was the 8350 and a Sony Blu-ray player connected by a 30' HDMI cable through the basement drop ceiling.
> 
> For comparison, what is the cable configuration for port 1 that still works?


Ive lost 2 splitters over the years. 3 cable boxes, but those don't hurt my wallet. The old man just loses his cowboy, tractor, and ww2 stuff on DVR. CSI and jeopardy for thee queen. Lost cheapo 32(it still works with antenna) and a Very good 39 is completely fired. I loved to fix the 39, its picture was great, but TV prices are at an all-time low 

Current setup is- Cable box 6' to the surge protector, 3' to splitter, 20' to 8350. It worked without the protector in the loop. I must have gotten lucky about port 1 still working.


----------



## Rgb

Anyone using an HDFury Linker to connect a UHD disc player to the Epson 8350?

I was planning to get a Sony X800 to play UHD discs on my current 8350.

The 8350 supports Deep Color (at least 10 bit). Don't know if the 8350 supports 12 bit color.

Seems like the Linker would be a nice stopgap with my lowish hour 8350, which still throws a great image.

I could get 10 bit color and Atmos from UHD discs (looks like more and more releases are doing Atmos only on UHD), and when the FauxK/true 4k pj $3K space gets sorted out, buy into a UHD capable pj.


----------



## Rgb

Looks like the X800 will downscale UHD discs and connect to the 8350 (HDMI 1.4) without the Linker-

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker-65.html#post54164745


----------



## Rgb

My X800 arrived and I tested with a direct connection to my 8350.

After disabling HDR (i.e. lock HDR>SDR downconvert), lock output res = 1080p, the UHD discs I tried all looked outstanding- Angry Birds, Billy Lynn.

24p (Angry Birds) and 60p (Billy Lynn) both played perfectly.

Tried YCbCr 4:2:2, 4:4:4, and RGB video output modes. All were reported as such on the 8350 and played fine.

Still trying to determine if there is a visible difference and if so, which color output mode looks best.

Otherwise, a very nice interim upgrade for the 8350- still life left in dem bones!

UHD discs give you 10-12 bit Deep Color (vs 8 bit on all 1080p BD's), 60p where available, and Atmos/DTSX where omitted on the 1080p BD disc, so there are reasons to play them on a legacy 1080p projector that's still performing well.


----------



## Rgb

bjmsam said:


> Yes. If the HDMI inputs are toast, then switch to the component inputs, and disconnect when not in use (bummer).
> 
> The 3020 is proving to be an ideal replacement for the 8350; it's very quiet and the picture is sharp, bright and accurate with equivalent contrast.


What model Epson 3D


----------



## Rgb




----------



## sschantz

Enjoy 6 great years with my 8350. Kids were watching a movie in the basement, turned everything off and came upstairs.

I went down and smelled an awful burning and figured the bulb blew. Ordered a new one and when I went to replace, the wires had melted and the clip that plugs from the bulb into the projector has been totally fried.

Now looking at a 1040


----------



## Tesla1856

sschantz said:


> Enjoy 6 great years with my 8350. Kids were watching a movie in the basement, turned everything off and came upstairs.
> 
> I went down and smelled an awful burning and figured the bulb blew. Ordered a new one and when I went to replace, the wires had melted and the clip that plugs from the bulb into the projector has been totally fried.
> 
> Now looking at a 1040


Sorry to hear that.

Hey, we have similar systems.

Yeah, my 8350 is 6-years old also. I'm on my second lamp (installed about 6 months ago).


----------



## Basbear

Rgb said:


> What model Epson 3D


----------



## Basbear

bjmsam said:


> port 1 that still works?


I thought id pass this along, it seems the splitter enables the port 1 to work. I tried to directly hook up cable box/roku to 8350 port one, it doesn't work. (retired port 2, still nothing). Weird, i could easily be doing something wrong. Plus i ordered a 5 in 1 out recently and hoping that will work as well.


----------



## bjmsam

Basbear said:


> The 3020 recommended by bj is a great option. I don't know if it's still available, but there was a deal on refurbs for around $700.


So far I am extremely impressed with the 3020. I purchased it from Epson here and paid $499 (it is now listed at $569).


----------



## ohliuw

I decided to bite the bullet and buy a refurb 8350 off Epson while waiting for drop on 4ks.

I have few questions. 

First, I checked the service menu, and it states only 39 hours of up time with 2 bulb changes - see the attachment. Does this make sense? Is it possible that Epson messes up with these numbers during the refurb process?

Second, the image is terrible out of the box (too yellowish/brownish/reddish). It's used in dark basement - what are the best settings for such environment?

And third, how do you guys get the audio out of a FireTV box (the new 4k mmodel). Amzn removed the toslink for microSD slot (what we're they thinking???), so the only option I could think of is an hdmi splitter box that is sold on ebay for $15-ish.

Thanks


----------



## Tesla1856

ohliuw said:


> 1. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a refurb 8350 off Epson
> 
> 2. while waiting for drop on 4ks.
> 
> 3. Second, the image is terrible out of the box (too yellowish/brownish/reddish). It's used in dark basement - what are the best settings for such environment?
> 
> 4. And third, how do you guys get the audio out of a FireTV box (the new 4k mmodel). Amzn removed the toslink for microSD slot (what we're they thinking???), so the only option I could think of is an hdmi splitter box that is sold on ebay for $15-ish.
> 
> Thanks


1. Nice. We love ours ... my first projector.

2. Yeah, I just try to stay away from epson.com 

3. Weird. My picture is perfect.

MY 8350 Settings 2-2016

Memory	Harmony_Name Color_Mode	Power_Consume	Auto-Iris Bright Contrast Color-Sat	Tint	
1 Dusk Natural Normal(ECO-Off)	Off 5 10 0 0 
2 Day Dynamic Normal(ECO-Off) Off 5 5 5 0
3 Night Cinema Normal(ECO-Off) Normal(On) 4 5 0 0

Auto-Iris Notes: Other setting is High-Speed. See definition below, forum capture PDFs, and in Owners manual. If "Night" (seldom used) is too slow,
might change to High Speed.

------

4. Never had or seen one, but what is wrong with using HDMI that goes to AVR/Amp ?


----------



## ohliuw

Tesla1856 said:


> 1. Nice. We love ours ... my first projector.
> 
> 2. Yeah, I just try to stay away from epson.com
> 
> 3. Weird. My picture is perfect.
> 
> MY 8350 Settings 2-2016
> 
> Memory	Harmony_Name Color_Mode	Power_Consume	Auto-Iris Bright Contrast Color-Sat	Tint
> 1 Dusk Natural Normal(ECO-Off)	Off 5 10 0 0
> 2 Day Dynamic Normal(ECO-Off) Off 5 5 5 0
> 3 Night Cinema Normal(ECO-Off) Normal(On) 4 5 0 0
> 
> Auto-Iris Notes: Other setting is High-Speed. See definition below, forum capture PDFs, and in Owners manual. If "Night" (seldom used) is too slow,
> might change to High Speed.
> 
> ------
> 
> 4. Never had or seen one, but what is wrong with using HDMI that goes to AVR/Amp ?


Thanks, I will try these settings.

There is nothing wrong, I just need to get the sound from my firetv to my Behringer mixer.
I don't have HDMI receiver, and can only input RCA or toslink to the mixer. Some projectors have audio out (mini jack), but not the 8350.


----------



## Tesla1856

ohliuw said:


> 1. Thanks, I will try these settings.
> 
> 2. There is nothing wrong, I just need to get the sound from my firetv to my Behringer mixer.
> I don't have HDMI receiver, and can only input RCA or toslink to the mixer. Some projectors have audio out (mini jack), but not the 8350.


1. I guess I should also mention that I use Preset #1 Dusk about 90% of the time (even at Night and during the day with blinds closed). My multi-use room is not very light-controlled. IMO, the 8350 is a torcher. 

2. I have an idea. I'll post later.


----------



## Tesla1856

ohliuw said:


> There is nothing wrong, I just need to get the sound from my firetv to my Behringer mixer.
> I don't have HDMI receiver, and can only input RCA or toslink to the mixer. Some projectors have audio out (mini jack), but not the 8350.


I'm not sure what that is. 

I just know that HDMI capable AVRs have been around for a while now, they are cheap, and IIRC ... the only way to get things like Multi-Channel PCM and Lip-Sync.

I use a ViewHD VHD-H2HSAs to extract analog stereo from my AppleTV-4 for Zone-2 audio.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...atv5-3-2015-owners-thread-4.html#post41681425


----------



## pinkfloydhomer

Would the current HC3700/TW6700 be a noticable upgrade from TW3200/HC8350? 

How much better is the black level and native contrast, for instance?


----------



## Tesla1856

*Mounting 8350 on ceiling ... finally.*

For the past 6 years, we have had our 8350 sitting on the counter in the back of our large Multi-Use room.

Well, I just installed a new Minka-Aire ceiling fan with a 6-inch shorter down-rod in our Living Room. It's finally now possible to ceiling mount our projector. I even have wife-approval  so I ordered a $30 QualGear QG-PM-002-WHT-L from Amazon.

Wish me luck.


----------



## Tesla1856

pinkfloydhomer said:


> Would the current HC3700/TW6700 be a noticable upgrade from TW3200/HC8350?
> 
> How much better is the black level and native contrast, for instance?


Good question, but the 3700 looks nice.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-3700-projector-review/

I'm not qualified to say how it compares to 8350, but the review and/or blog-posts do talk toward it. Interesting people are still talking about 8350 (it certainly made an impression on the scene).

I'm sold on Epson 3-LCD technology and their nice main-lens also. Yeah, my next projector would have to be as good or better than my 8350. But since ours still works perfectly, it's better if I don't look at new projectors reviews or epson.com right now. 

We still mostly use the plasma during the day. But just about every day at dusk ... the Epson 8350 comes on.


----------



## ohliuw

Tesla1856 said:


> I'm not sure what that is.
> 
> I just know that HDMI capable AVRs have been around for a while now, they are cheap, and IIRC ... the only way to get things like Multi-Channel PCM and Lip-Sync.
> 
> I use a ViewHD VHD-H2HSAs to extract analog stereo from my AppleTV-4 for Zone-2 audio.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...atv5-3-2015-owners-thread-4.html#post41681425


I got Epson to replace the projector. Much better picture now.

However, I am still looking at the sound out issue. I am a bit confused since there seems to be 2 types of extractor boxes - one type is AUDIO extractor (typically 1080p) the othertype is ARC extractor (4k).

I am looking to get audio out from my Firetv 2ng generation box and to be able to control the audio level from the remote of the firetv. Which type should I buy?


----------



## Tesla1856

*QualGear QG-PM-002-WHT-L Projector Mount - $30*



Tesla1856 said:


> For the past 6 years, we have had our 8350 sitting on the counter in the back of our large Multi-Use room.
> 
> Well, I just installed a new Minka-Aire ceiling fan with a 6-inch shorter down-rod in our Living Room. It's finally now possible to ceiling mount our projector. I even have wife-approval  so I ordered a $30 QualGear QG-PM-002-WHT-L from Amazon.
> 
> Wish me luck.


Install went fine.

It's installed on the ceiling (7ft from floor) behind couch about 16ft. from projection surface. Mount is mostly retracted to a 22inch length. It seems adequately sturdy and we have never seen any image shaking or vibrations. However, I guess it should be noted that this is a single-level residence (no walking on floor above projector).

I was just barely able to lift projector into place and hook on shaft by myself. Projector "balances" on mount nicely and then you just tighten the various final screws. You can make fine adjustments, but there are no actual "fine adjustment" knobs ... but it's not like you need them with the 8350. I just hold projector perfectly level, lens parallel to screen, and tighten all the screws down (fairly permanently).

Playing around with screen sizes, height, or position is easy with 8350 (nice lens and lens-shift), and no further adjustment of mount is required while messing-around with those things.

Since install, there has been no movement or drift requiring re-adjustment of mount. We like it.

On the back counter was fine, but I'm happy to finally have it on the ceiling.


----------



## Tesla1856

ohliuw said:


> 1. I got Epson to replace the projector. Much better picture now.
> 
> 2. However, I am still looking at the sound out issue. I am a bit confused since there seems to be 2 types of extractor boxes - one type is AUDIO extractor (typically 1080p) the othertype is ARC extractor (4k).
> 
> 3. I am looking to get audio out from my Firetv 2ng generation box and to be able to control the audio level from the remote of the firetv. Which type should I buy?


1. Excellent. That explains a lot ... didn't make sense that the "picture was bad" OoB.

2. I tried to help since I just bought a ViewHD device, but this IS a projector thread. A audio thread might be better?

3. That's a good question about the audio control. I control my Zone-2 Audio with a wall control near porch door. I think someone else will have to help you. I don't really understand your setup (using a mixer?) or your reluctance to get a HDMI AVR (especially in this day and age).


----------



## blitzs

My Bulb sadly went out today with a loud pop. Sadly this one did not have a long and fruitful like the first. Is there a recommended place to buy a replacement that reliable enough without the markup involved with Epson?


----------



## Tesla1856

blitzs said:


> My Bulb sadly went out today with a loud pop. Sadly this one did not have a long and fruitful like the first. Is there a recommended place to buy a replacement that reliable enough without the markup involved with Epson?


Not that I know of. If you read this thread back a few pages, I think you will see that cheap knock-offs are not the same or as good as original Epson OEM bulbs.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...pson-8350-owners-thread-308.html#post47777393

I have about 500 hours on my 1-year old lamp. I still run it in ECO Mode (still plenty bright). My 8350 is 6 years old now.

Welcome to the forum.


----------



## spira

This is my first time posting here and I tried to search this thread, these forums and googled for a few hours for an answer to this, but I can't find anything. 

I'm trying to control the Home Cinema 8350 through an RS-232 connection and I can't seem to be able to make it work. 

Here's what I've done:

1. Bought a USB to DB9 serial cable
2. Connected the projector to the serial cable with a NULL modem cable.
3. Tried to connect to the projector with the CoolTerm program (on Mac). Set the term to 9600-8-N-1, no flow control.
4. Read and followed all the instructions in the User's manual and the ESC/VP21 Command User’s Guide for Business Projectors 

But I can't seem to get the projector to react to my commands. I never got the : prompt I should get after sending a CR through the terminal.

Here's what I did to troubleshoot the problem:
1. I shorted the Tx and Rx pins on my null modem cable and CoolTerm receives the strings I transmit (local echo is disabled, so it is the signal round-tripping through the cable). So it seems the NULL modem cable and USB to serial interface cable are good to go.

2. I used the same setup with a Viewsonic Pro8200 projector and I can send commands that the projector properly executes. So it seems the computer to projector interface should work with the Epson.

I'm tempted to reach the conclusion that the RS-232c port on my Epson 8350 is dead. But I thought maybe I missed something that some of you might have encountered before. Like, is there a hidden menu where the RS-232 interface might need to be activated for it to work? I found the hidden DIP-SW menus, but with no way of knowing what the switches are I'm afraid to brick the projector if I just go around switching things randomly.

Anyway, all feedback on this problem is welcome! Thanks a lot!


----------



## Tesla1856

spira said:


> 2. I used the same setup with a Viewsonic Pro8200 projector and I can send commands that the projector properly executes. So it seems the computer to projector interface should work with the Epson.


Good test and troubleshooting because my guess would have been software problem on Mac or USB-to-RS232 interface wasn't actually working.

I used to work in the Point-of-Sale field, so we did lots of RS-232 back in the 80s and 90s.

I've seen the RS-232 port on the 8350 and thought I might need to use it one day. I guess you have some special application with a remote 8350 projector and are willing to run a cable and setup a computer just to control it. For me, while recently upgrading the Home-Theater to Simple-Control, something like this was the answer.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-IR-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B00F8W9YKW/ref=sr_1_3

There might be slightly better ones now. The set I used was just an old set I bought about 5 years ago and never used.

If you must use a wire, a guy with a different projector said he got Hercules to work:
https://www.epson.eu/viewcon/corporatesite/products/mainunits/faq/7914/18317


----------



## spira

Tesla1856 said:


> I guess you have some special application with a remote 8350 projector and are willing to run a cable and setup a computer just to control it. For me, while recently upgrading the Home-Theater to Simple-Control, something like this was the answer.


Exactly. I'll be using a HDBaseT 70M extender that comes with a serial port extender. It also comes with in/out ports for an IR extender and that is what I'll be using if the RS232 port is dead. I would prefer to send commands through the serial port because you can change parameters without going through the menu. It would also let me centralize all the controls (VLC/Quicktime + projector) on our laptop instead of having to shuffle between the keyboard/mouse and remote.


----------



## spira

I just received this answer from Epson regarding the RS-232c port, I wanted to share it in case someone else has the same problem:



> The RS232 port on the projector is rarely to fail but it is possible that you do have a faulty RS232 port. The port is always active or ON and you don't have to do anything else so I would not mess with the dip switches.
> I know this connection works with Viewsonic and I just want to make sure that you are sending the correct commands. See attached RS232 command codes for Home theater and hope this helps.


The command codes they sent me are the same as in the original document. The only interesting thing I saw is it seems that the baud rate for the port can be changed. So I tried to change the baud rate of my terminal in case the projector was not at the default 9600 but it did not work. So basically, this pretty much confirms that the RS-232C port on my projector is gone for good.

The document they sent me is called: "ESCVP21 command guide (HOME)_Rev.C.xlsx" if someone ever needs it (you can find it through Google).


----------



## pharmacist25

*Help with an 8350*

Not to hijack, but not sure where to go.
Epson 8350 owner for 7 years.

Just replaced the lamp 3 times with 2 new generic lamps and 1 official epson lamp and they are all very dim. Picture is great, but cannot get even near bright enough.
Epson said problem could be in power or circuit board and I need to take to a service center. Can anyone help any with this or point me in the right direction? Thanks
Was thinking of replacing ballast board next but not sure.
Thanks for any help.


----------



## Tesla1856

pharmacist25 said:


> Not to hijack, but not sure where to go.
> Epson 8350 owner for 7 years.
> 
> Just replaced the lamp 3 times with 2 new generic lamps and 1 official epson lamp and they are all very dim. Picture is great, but cannot get even near bright enough.
> Epson said problem could be in power or circuit board and I need to take to a service center. Can anyone help any with this or point me in the right direction? Thanks
> Was thinking of replacing ballast board next but not sure.
> Thanks for any help.


You are in the right place.

Are you sure you got the right Epson lamp, and it's genuine?

With the genuine Epson Lamp installed, try switching to Eco Mode, and then back to normal. Also, reset to Defaults (write down or take pics of settings first).


----------



## pharmacist25

Tesla1856 said:


> You are in the right place.
> 
> Are you sure you got the right Epson lamp, and it's genuine?
> 
> With the genuine Epson Lamp installed, try switching to Eco Mode, and then back to normal. Also, reset to Defaults (write down or take pics of settings first).


Tried Eco mode and back but no luck. Could hear changes in power and also changes in what I assume is auto-iris? It doesnt sound great but it does move..
To me lamp looks bright when I look in from side. Thoughts?


----------



## Tesla1856

pharmacist25 said:


> Tried Eco mode and back but no luck. Could hear changes in power and also changes in what I assume is auto-iris? It doesnt sound great but it does move..
> To me lamp looks bright when I look in from side. Thoughts?


Again, where did you buy the "genuine" Epson lamp, and what is the model number? There should have been an Epson Hologram sticker on it somewhere or the box.

Have you carefully checked the copper contacts for corrosion or burn marks? Maybe it's not making good contact?


----------



## pharmacist25

I will have to check the numbers and look for the hologram but I do not remember seeing one. Bought from a place on Ebay but they assured after several questions that it was an Epson brand. Who knows. I can return if needed. It looks super bright though.
All contacts look great.
I will send pics of lamp and box later tonight. Thanks for helping me.


----------



## mijoeldotor

Hi!

I'm a proud owner of the 8350. 8 years of use, 2400 hs on the lamp. I want to up grade it because of the time and the probability of errors/malfunctions...I guess is not time for a 4K yet. I do not plan to play 4K content for a while. I was looking for the Epson 3100. Now at $1,099. I would like some advice here...didn't find any message owners of 8350 goint to 3100. The specifications are similar...Thank you


----------



## torch2k

*Did I break my 8350?*

Hi All, I've owned my 8350 for about 4 years now, and it's come to the point where there was a large blotchy/dark area on the screen whenever the image was bright. I cleaned the lens and it was still there, and I tried it on the wall vs. the screen and it was still there, so I know it had to be something internal.

I tore down the PJ today and found that all of the mirrors and LCD panels has dust build ups on them, so I cleaned everything using q-tips with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Everything looked good and I put it back together, and now it won't turn on. When you power it on, it does the power cycle, the "whirrrrrr" sound, the fans kick in and then power lights go off and both red lights start blinking.

I figured I must have missed a connection on putting it back together, so i've done it twice now and the same result.

I was using a generic bulb, so just to be sure I swapped back in my original Epson bulb -- same results.

Any ideas on what I can check for? I am 99% sure that I have everything connected properly.

Thank you,
Phil


----------



## Dennis1984

Hi all,

I've been reading this thread for a while because i have a problem with my epson projector.
I was noticing some discoloration .
Right on the screen it looks more yellow and left it looks more blue.
This is only visibly on a white background .
I opened the projector to check if i could find something.
cleaned it for dust and the problem still exist.
I opened it again.
It must be something to do with the lightpath .
Checked if the glasses after the lamp are still in place .. and they are ok.
But then i noticed just after the cinema filter there was a strange looking glass with vertical lines .
It has a crack in one of those vertical glasses.
This must be the problem.
Can anyone tell me what this is and what it does ?
i attached a picture

thanks 
Dennis


----------



## bajabill

I just bought a house that has the HT set up. Nice 104" screen, Epson8350 mounted to the ceiling ~13' away.

It is nice to me, as a new owner in the wow stage!, yet I know the bulb will likely need replacing etc.

So, some forethought comes into play and I am wondering if this unit is worth spending money for a new bulb or when the time comes should I opt for a newer technology projector. Looking at the calculator at projector central and I seem to be at the ragged edge for ambient light room. I do notice that the image does not allow me to turn on much room lighting before it is not acceptable.

Coincidentally I bought a Epson 2045 a year ago before the thought of moving became a reality, and I will do a comparison between these projectors, but the 13' throw distance is beyond what the 2045 is designed for. This was bought with the intention of using it more port-ably, such as outside in the summer.


----------



## Tesla1856

bajabill said:


> Nice 104" screen, Epson-8350 mounted to the ceiling ~13' away.
> 
> I am wondering if this unit is worth spending money for a new bulb or when the time comes should I opt for a newer technology projector. Looking at the calculator at projector central and I seem to be at the ragged edge for ambient light room. I do notice that the image does not allow me to turn on much room lighting before it is not acceptable.


Projecting 104-in at only 13-ft should be full brightness (2000 lumens). Be sure ECO-Mode=OFF if bulb is old or you want max brightness.

I've had mine about 7 years now and *it still works perfectly* as a 1080p projector in a multi-use room (non-light controlled). Some lights left-on are OK as long as it's not reaching the screen much.

I had to fix (clean and lube) main internal exhaust-fan in 2015.
I installed a $300 Genuine Epson Lamp (and Filter) in 2016.

When it's time to replace your lamp...
1. If you only want 1080p and you are still happy with your setup
2. You are sure only lamp is worn-out (8350 is working fine except for brightness and maybe some flickering)

I would say spend $300 for a new genuine lamp because (if sticking with 3-LCD) an Epson-3700 is $1400. Epson-4000 is $1800.

But like me in the future, you might be ready for an upgrade now that projector is 7-10 years old (Faux-4K, native-4K, HDR, motorized lens, laser, etc) ... so it won't be $1400 but more like $3000-$5000. Maybe even made the switch from 3-LCD to LCoS.


----------



## DanRadmacher

I just took advantage of the DirecTV Apple TV 4k offer. 

I hooked it up and just for giggles, I turned on HDR, pretty sure it wouldn't work on the 8350. To my surprise, it did. But I'm not sure I like it. Everything seems dull and washed out, especially on the menu. Watching video, I think it looks okay, but I wouldn't really say it's an improvement.

Are there projector settings that could make it look better, or am I trying to make something work right that just won't?

I appreciate any advice.


----------



## Mr.G

DanRadmacher said:


> I just took advantage of the DirecTV Apple TV 4k offer.
> 
> I hooked it up and just for giggles, I turned on HDR, pretty sure it wouldn't work on the 8350. To my surprise, it did. But I'm not sure I like it. Everything seems dull and washed out, especially on the menu. Watching video, I think it looks okay, but I wouldn't really say it's an improvement.
> 
> Are there projector settings that could make it look better, or am I trying to make something work right that just won't?
> 
> I appreciate any advice.


The Apple TV 4K is down converting to 1080p SDR in spite of your settings. 

Go the Apple TV owner's thread for more information.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...streaming/1278071-apple-tv-owners-thread.html


----------



## Tesla1856

DanRadmacher said:


> I just took advantage of the DirecTV Apple TV 4k offer.
> 
> I hooked it up and just for giggles, I turned on HDR, pretty sure it wouldn't work on the 8350. To my surprise, it did. But I'm not sure I like it. Everything seems dull and washed out, especially on the menu. Watching video, I think it looks okay, but I wouldn't really say it's an improvement.
> 
> Are there projector settings that could make it look better, or am I trying to make something work right that just won't?
> 
> I appreciate any advice.


It's not supported, so I would expect unpredictable results (as you saw, with the inferior picture).


----------



## c3k

Folks.

My 8 (?) year old 8350 is getting more and more "auto iris failure: contact Epson for service" error messages at startup. It's the yellow box in a blue field. The only solution is to power down the projector with the remote. This causes two red lights to frantically flash on the unit. I've got to unplug it (ceiling mount: yah!), count to 5 or 10, replug, repower, and keep my fingers crossed. 

Sometimes it takes 2x or 3x of this before it starts up normally.

1. I don't want to buy a new projector. (I have a brand new Espon bulb in a box waiting to be used on this projector. Nice to have a spare...)

2. Is there a likelihood of success to completely disassembly the projector, re-lube the auto iris (which I've ALWAYS kept turned off), and then re-assemble? (My understanding is that the auto iris feature goes through a full articulation self-test on each start. Mine seems to jam/fail.)

3. If it's too late for this one (It's dead, Jim!), I guess I'll jump to 4k. What's out there with similar lumens? (108" at 13')

Thanks!
Ken


----------



## Tesla1856

c3k said:


> Folks.
> 
> 1. My 8 (?) year old 8350 is getting more and more "auto iris failure
> 
> 2. Is there a likelihood of success to completely disassembly the projector, re-lube the auto iris (which I've ALWAYS kept turned off), and then re-assemble? (My understanding is that the auto iris feature goes through a full articulation self-test on each start. Mine seems to jam/fail.)


1. Mine is of similar age and I also keep my Auto-Iris OFF. I've never seen that error message (knock on wood)

2. Certainly could not hurt. Before turning over or moving too much, I suggest you vacuum the outside vents ... and lots of vacuuming during disassembly. Finally maybe a low-PSI blow-out but try not to blow dust INTO the light paths/chambers. Go slow and take your time.

That's what I did when I had to open mine to clean/lube the seized-up large front cooling fan ... worked great (see post in this thread). That was years ago, and it's been working fine since. However, I did finally change the original lamp to a new (genuine Epson) one.


----------



## c3k

Tesla1856 said:


> 1. Mine is of similar age and I also keep my Auto-Iris OFF. I've never seen that error message (knock on wood)
> 
> 2. Certainly could not hurt. Before turning over or moving too much, I suggest you vacuum the outside vents ... and lots of vacuuming during disassembly. Finally maybe a low-PSI blow-out but try not to blow dust INTO the light paths/chambers. Go slow and take your time.
> 
> That's what I did when I had to open mine to clean/lube the seized-up large front cooling fan ... worked great (see post in this thread). That was years ago, and it's been working fine since. However, I did finally change the original lamp to a new (genuine Epson) one.


Thanks.

I'll do the disassembly/cleanout. I've got guests coming for a three-week visit in June. In the "if it's not broken (err, "fully broken"), don't fix it" school of thought, I'll leave well-enough alone until their visit is over. Last thing I'd want to do is make my theater inop just before they show.

Good suggestion on the vacuum and low psi air.

If this cleanout fails, I think the Optoma 65UHZ (the laser 4k; did I get the letters right?) is on my dream list.


----------



## jnherdendorf

Hello. I received an 8350 projector and the convergence is really bad. Is there any way to fix this myself? What are my options? I'm assuming it's out of warranty by this point. Thanks.


----------



## Tesla1856

jnherdendorf said:


> Hello. I received an 8350 projector and the convergence is really bad. Is there any way to fix this myself? What are my options? I'm assuming it's out of warranty by this point. Thanks.


I've never heard of anyone in this thread re-aligning the 3LCD-optics or LCDs on their 8350, but I feel it's likely possible.

You would need the directions to do it properly, and some training would not hurt. My guess is that's it's a fairly delicate process. Maybe you can find the one part that slipped, and just adjust that one part, so it aligns with all the others?


----------



## jnherdendorf

Tesla1856 said:


> I've never heard of anyone in this thread re-aligning the 3LCD-optics or LCDs on their 8350, but I feel it's likely possible.
> 
> You would need the directions to do it properly, and some training would not hurt. My guess is that's it's a fairly delicate process. Maybe you can find the one part that slipped, and just adjust that one part, so it aligns with all the others?


I'm not afraid to take the cover off, but I was hoping someone had beat me to it since this projector has been out for a long time. I watched a youtube video on alignment of a projector with three separate lenses and it seemed kind of daunting and it involved gluing the lenses in place after aligning them. It also required extension wires from power to the motherboard and firing up the projector while apart. It certainly didn't seem as easy as turning a few adjustment screws. Seems like a poor/cheap design to me.


----------



## Tesla1856

jnherdendorf said:


> I'm not afraid to take the cover off, but I was hoping someone had beat me to it since this projector has been out for a long time. I watched a youtube video on alignment of a projector with three separate lenses and it seemed kind of daunting and it involved gluing the lenses in place after aligning them. It also required extension wires from power to the motherboard and firing up the projector while apart. It certainly didn't seem as easy as turning a few adjustment screws. Seems like a poor/cheap design to me.


Right. That's about what I would imagine. See, I have had mine apart (read a few pages back) to fix it once. I've also seen diagrams on the 3LCD optical components. It's looks pretty intense to me. It's nothing like DLP.

We did board-level-repair at the shop, but I also used to do something like this with timing and calibrating small printers (remember those) ? Anyway, we built specialized test-gigs to facilitate this work. Something like this, they have specialized setups and training. I'm sure it's all fairly exact and scientific.


----------



## descalabro

jnherdendorf said:


> I'm not afraid to take the cover off, but I was hoping someone had beat me to it since this projector has been out for a long time. I watched a youtube video on alignment of a projector with three separate lenses and it seemed kind of daunting and it involved gluing the lenses in place after aligning them. It also required extension wires from power to the motherboard and firing up the projector while apart. It certainly didn't seem as easy as turning a few adjustment screws. Seems like a poor/cheap design to me.





Tesla1856 said:


> Right. That's about what I would imagine. See, I have had mine apart (read a few pages back) to fix it once. I've also seen diagrams on the 3LCD optical components. It's looks pretty intense to me. It's nothing like DLP.
> 
> We did board-level-repair at the shop, but I also used to do something like this with timing and calibrating small printers (remember those) ? Anyway, we built specialized test-gigs to facilitate this work. Something like this, they have specialized setups and training. I'm sure it's all fairly exact and scientific.


Hi,

I don't think it's poor design to not include long LCD cables so that the end user may perform a highly specialized repair. I've disassembled models from this series some 7 times, and I would say they're pretty well designed inside.

Can you post some photo of your issue?

Are you sure the problem is LCD convergence? LCDs are rarely 100% convergent, but usually convergence issues are so slight that they can't be noticed at normal viewing distances. LCDs panels are usually tightly locked with screws on the case around the prism, so it's unlikely the convergence has gone off. Anyway, with 2 million pixels on each panel, you would be trying to do an alignment with an error margin of a fraction of a millimetre. There's the chance that one of your inner polarizers has burned and is causing a convergence issue with a green haze. If it looks anything like this, that's the issue:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/1592818-epson-powerline-home-cinema-8100-color-convergence-problem.html


----------



## jnherdendorf

descalabro said:


> Hi,
> 
> I don't think it's poor design to not include long LCD cables so that the end user may perform a highly specialized repair. I've disassembled models from this series some 7 times, and I would say they're pretty well designed inside.
> 
> Can you post some photo of your issue?
> 
> Are you sure the problem is LCD convergence? LCDs are rarely 100% convergent, but usually convergence issues are so slight that they can't be noticed at normal viewing distances. LCDs panels are usually tightly locked with screws on the case around the prism, so it's unlikely the convergence has gone off. Anyway, with 2 million pixels on each panel, you would be trying to do an alignment with an error margin of a fraction of a millimetre. There's the chance that one of your inner polarizers has burned and is causing a convergence issue with a green haze. If it looks anything like this, that's the issue:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/1592818-epson-powerline-home-cinema-8100-color-convergence-problem.html



I'm having an awful time trying to upload pictures. I'll keep trying.


----------



## jnherdendorf

Photos as requested.


----------



## descalabro

jnherdendorf said:


> Photos as requested.


Ok, this is most likely an actual convergence problem, but I should have given you a proper image to test this:










Can you post a photo of this whole image projected?

Was this projector like this before being given to you?


----------



## jnherdendorf

Pics as requested. It was like this when I received it.


----------



## descalabro

Ok, so green is there, and magenta too, which means that green is out of alignment, and red + blue are aligned with each other. Although the alignment of red and blue doesn't seem perfect as the lines aren't as sharp there as on the green. My problem with all of this is understanding how it was ever aligned and then became like this, because I've once tried to loosen the 4 screws of each LCD and they were so locked in that my cheap screwdriver wore out and I couldn't even nudge them. Now, the screw that holds the whole prism block is much more easily loosened and I was able to take out the prism block and tightening it back again without losing alignment.

My first point is that you need to know if the projector was always like this, which means it may be misaligned from the factory in which case there may not be much you can do yourself to repair it.

My second point is that there's a chance the whole block is slightly loose, but I'm not really sure it would cause this (if, for example, it were tilted on the green axis?).


May be worth to try disassembling it and tightening the screw below the prism block. If you want to do that, this video of another repair will guide you through removing a few parts. Watch until 5:27, then I can help you with the rest. DO NOT do this unless you feel technically capable.


----------



## keithb4158

*Cinema filter servo motor and gearbox needed.*

Can anyone please point me in the right direction to buy the servo motor/gearbox. It seems a waste to have to throw this PJ in the trash. I'm in Australia, so a local supplier would be best, however I'm quite happy to source it from anywhere.


----------



## descalabro

keithb4158 said:


> Can anyone please point me in the right direction to buy the servo motor/gearbox. It seems a waste to have to throw this PJ in the trash. I'm in Australia, so a local supplier would be best, however I'm quite happy to source it from anywhere.


I'm selling one on eBay, I'm from Europe, but send me a pm if you're interested.


----------



## keithb4158

descalabro said:


> I'm selling one on eBay, I'm from Europe, but send me a pm if you're interested.


Thanks descalabro, I tried to PM you, however being a new user and not having 5 posts I'm unable to PM you
Maybe you can PM me?


----------



## descalabro

keithb4158 said:


> Thanks descalabro, I tried to PM you, however being a new user and not having 5 posts I'm unable to PM you
> Maybe you can PM me?


Sure. I have replied to your PM.


----------



## erehwon

I recently picked up one of these projectors at a garage sale. It was listed as broken and I picked it up as a project for $12. It powers up to both status lights flashing red. The manual only says this is an internal failure. I have reseated the bulb assembly, but that didn't help. This is my first time working on a projector.



I was wondering if any of you have had this and found what caused it. I've torn apart computers, laptops, and printers, so I'm not afraid to tear it down for a repair. I'm just looking for a few ideas on the parts most likely to have failed.


----------



## c3k

I'm a long-time 8350 owner. Lately, I've been afflicted with the Auto-Iris Error.

I'd been able to just unplug the unit and restart it and it would work. Rarely, it'd take a second reset.

Finally, after 3 tries, it didn't reset. 8 month gradual failure. Not bad.

(FWIW, following the suggestions in this thread, I've always kept the Auto-Iris feature turned off. The failure is due to the auto-check which occurs at initial start.)

Today, I disassembled the unit, examined the auto-iris, which looked looked very good, manipulated it a few times (only goofed the once...if you've ever played with one, you'll know that the lower iris is easy to disconnect from the upper. Oops.) and then reinstalled it after getting it all back the way it had been. Now, the projector is working again. Go figure.


I figure I'll need a new auto-iris unit at some point. Can anyone point me to a source? I've got to be on borrowed time with this one.

My wife would sure appreciate it if I just buy a replacement part rather than that Optoma UHZ65 I'm hearing about. 

Thanks!


----------



## pdisme

Would definitely love a DIY fix on that iris too. I've got two 8350's that my wife and I use only during football season to keep tabs on two games at the same time for fantasy; one of my units gave the red light of death at startup too because of the iris, and now that regular season is almost here, would like to fix.


----------



## Tesla1856

c3k said:


> I've been afflicted with the Auto-Iris Error.
> 
> (FWIW, following the suggestions in this thread, I've always kept the Auto-Iris feature turned off. The failure is due to the auto-check which occurs at initial start.)
> 
> Today, I disassembled the unit, examined the auto-iris, which looked looked very good, manipulated it a few times (only goofed the once...if you've ever played with one, you'll know that the lower iris is easy to disconnect from the upper. Oops.) and then reinstalled it after getting it all back the way it had been. Now, the projector is working again. Go figure.


I've had my 8350 since 2011 and I've never seen that error. I also keep mine off.

I can't imaging what that looks like. I hear something moving sometimes, so imagine something mechanical. If it's not doing it now, I wouldn't worry. If you have to get inside again, I wonder if a single drop of optical-grade silicone-grease in just the right spot would help (but maybe only where they applied it before ... now gummed up).

Yeah, lately I can sometimes hear a fan rattling a bit when mine is cold. Really not looking forward to having to take-it-down and open it again. I've only done that once before, and I did write-it-up here.

If mine went-out tomorrow, (and I was low on funds) I would probably just pick-up an Epson-4000 (3LCD based) for $1700. That's pretty close to what I paid for my Epson-8350 back then. If my budget was about twice that, I think the JVC DLA-X590r (D-ILA-3 based) would be my choice . @MississippiMan says it's pretty awesome (and beats the Epson-4000).


----------



## descalabro

erehwon said:


> I recently picked up one of these projectors at a garage sale. It was listed as broken and I picked it up as a project for $12. It powers up to both status lights flashing red. The manual only says this is an internal failure. I have reseated the bulb assembly, but that didn't help. This is my first time working on a projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering if any of you have had this and found what caused it. I've torn apart computers, laptops, and printers, so I'm not afraid to tear it down for a repair. I'm just looking for a few ideas on the parts most likely to have failed.


Do you have any more details about what it does when powering up? Noises and such?


----------



## erehwon

descalabro said:


> Do you have any more details about what it does when powering up? Noises and such?


It powers to both flashing red lights. I think the fans are going and there is no light from the bulb. That's what I remember the last time I powered it up.


----------



## descalabro

@pdisme @Tesla1856 @c3k

This is no DIY fix to the auto-iris error, but it shows how to disassemble the projector and get to it:







Most of the times cleaning and lubricating the part will do it, and the projector will be a lot quieter. Use teflon or silicon grease. As for replacement parts, broken or faulty projectors of this series keep appearing on eBay, and often parts too, so just keep looking.


----------



## pdisme

Just ordered the grease, will tear it down this weekend; thanks for the video tip!


----------



## hessel holland

Howdy folks...my 8350 with only about 2400 hrs just started doing this. After i turn it on and it stabilizes the pic jumps to the left a bit so that some of the picture is lost. After about 20 sec it jumps back and does this a few times until it jumps left and stays there. Any ideas?

Thanks, Hess


----------



## hessel holland

hessel holland said:


> Howdy folks...my 8350 with only about 2400 hrs just started doing this. After i turn it on and it stabilizes the pic jumps to the left a bit so that some of the picture is lost. After about 20 sec it jumps back and does this a few times until it jumps left and stays there. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks, Hess


Oops....seems it's something in my av chain possibly my Lumagen. Hope not.


----------



## pdisme

Hey all, so it turns out the auto iris assembly / motor / gearing was not the cause of my projector failure (double red LED's flashing). I took it apart per the descalabro post 9351 expecting to fix the iris, since my project would make some motor sounds upon power-up before failing.


Instead, after disassembling / reassembling three times and learning what to watch and listen for, I guessed my issue was actually the 'cinema filter' which you can see being taken out of the projector at about the 7:30 mark in the video. Missing from the video, but present in my projector, is a small aluminum clip that mounts to the same screw that holds one end of the cinema filter top guide plate in place; that's the aluminum bit with wires coming off of it on the opposite end for some contact switches it uses to track the position of the cinema filter (basically piece of IR filter glass in a movable plastic housing).


At startup, it tries to move the filter back and forth to determine its current location, and then parks it out of the light path unless you're in a mode that uses it. The aluminum clip in my projector, but not in the video, appears to have a purpose of holding the lens in place that the video is describing pushing back into proper position. So perhaps a later iteration of the projector added that to keep the lens from falling out when mounted upside down. In any case, the filter would try to push over into the light path and jam into this clip, so the clip itself was out of place for some reason. I couldn't get it to play nice, and given the glass lens seemed to be firmly in place, I simply removed the clip. Reassembled and projector went back to normal functionality. I use mine strictly for gaming and NFL, so I actually tried to remove the cinema filter, and then with/without its sensor plugs connected, but all variations stopped the startup process so it appears there's not a way to get rid of it.


----------



## Tesla1856

pdisme said:


> 1. it turns out the auto iris assembly / motor / gearing was not the cause of my projector failure (double red LED's flashing).
> 
> 2. I actually tried to remove the cinema filter, and then with/without its sensor plugs connected, but all variations stopped the startup process so it appears there's not a way to get rid of it.


1. But it sounds like you learnt a lot in the process.

2. I found that the fans work like this also. If the motherboard doesn't detect them, it figures it's bad and throws an error code that keeps projector from starting properly.


----------



## descalabro

Tesla1856 said:


> 1. But it sounds like you learnt a lot in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. I found that the fans work like this also. If the motherboard doesn't detect them, it figures it's bad and throws an error code that keeps projector from starting properly.




Yes, every part is connected to the circuit and the projector will not run without it. As for @Tesla1856 , I hope that small piece he took won’t be necessary with the projector facing up. Dynamic mode does not use cinema filter, and it’s good for sports, but the filter will always perform some routine at startup, I think. Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mrpikwik

descalabro said:


> Yes, every part is connected to the circuit and the projector will not run without it. As for @Tesla1856 , I hope that small piece he took won’t be necessary with the projector facing up. Dynamic mode does not use cinema filter, and it’s good for sports, but the filter will always perform some routine at startup, I think. Cheers!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My 8350 stopped working; powers up, fans start up, then both red lights (temp & lamp) flash at .5 second intervals, no light, then it powers off. Unfortunately, I purchased a new $300 bulb from Epson thinking that would fix the issue, and it didn't; now I don't think Epson will refund the new bulb I purchased. 

I probably won't take this to get serviced as it seems like I'd be throwing good money after bad; and though I was able to open the projector and look inside, troubleshooting for the root cause of the error is beyond me.


----------



## gbisaga2

*Broken screws, blinking light*

Hi, I've had my 8350 for several years, great projector. However the other day I heard a popping kind of sound, the screen suddenly went dark, and the lamp light started flashing red. I assumed the bulb broke since I figured it was getting close to needing replaced anyway. When I took off the cover, this seems to be confirmed because there was a bit of metallic looking powder sitting in the cover. Unfortunately, I didn't look to see if the bulb was actually broken before I threw it away, because I assumed it was.

I put in the new bulb cartridge but couldn't screw in the front screw. I pulled it back out and saw a disheartening sight: one of the two screws that hold the cartridge in is sheared off inside the cartridge holder. (I can't post an image or link because I'm new here - I had to create a new account because password reset isn't working.)

I now think that the bulb didn't pop after all: I think the popping noise was the screw shearing off and the metallic shards were bits of the screw. The manual says the red blinking light can mean either "replace the bulb" or "cartridge not installed properly". Even worse, in just putting the cartridge back in to ensure it was the "lamp" light that was blinking, I was an idjit and sheared off the other screw by over-tightening it.

So my questions are (1) can a broken screw cause the red blinking light and (2) any ideas for how to fix this? For example, is the cartridge holder easily obtained and replaced? I've looked around but I don't even know what to call that thing that you screw the lamp cartridge into, so internet searches have not been real helpful.


----------



## Tesla1856

gbisaga2 said:


> I now think that the bulb didn't pop after all: I think the popping noise was the screw shearing off and the metallic shards were bits of the screw. The manual says the red blinking light can mean either "replace the bulb" or "cartridge not installed properly". Even worse, in just putting the cartridge back in to ensure it was the "lamp" light that was blinking, I was an idjit and sheared off the other screw by over-tightening it.
> 
> So my questions are (1) can a broken screw cause the red blinking light and (2) any ideas for how to fix this? For example, is the cartridge holder easily obtained and replaced? I've looked around but I don't even know what to call that thing that you screw the lamp cartridge into, so internet searches have not been real helpful.


You should probably have it professionally serviced before things gets any worse. No offence, but you don't seem to have the required skills.

For a DIY fix, remove the broken screw (maybe use an "easy out). Re-thread base's screw hole if required.


----------



## veekay

So, after 3 years my last bulb finally bit the dust - just as I was warming it up for a movie, of course. I had a spare bulb from 7 years ago with 250 hours on it, so all wasn't lost. 

My problem came with the fact that the bulb flickers when running in eco mode. Normal mode was fine, but of course it is too dang loud. Ran for a good number of hours in normal before switching back to eco as I know sometimes that fixes things, but no change. Decided to order a new bulb and of course it is flickering. Ran the thing in normal mode for the last 50 hours and switched back to eco and right away it dims in and out. 

Is there a chance the projector is actually the issue or just bad bulb luck?


----------



## erehwon

pdisme said:


> Hey all, so it turns out the auto iris assembly / motor / gearing was not the cause of my projector failure (double red LED's flashing). I took it apart per the post 9351 expecting to fix the iris, since my project would make some motor sounds upon power-up before failing.
> 
> 
> Instead, after disassembling / reassembling three times and learning what to watch and listen for, I guessed my issue was actually the 'cinema filter' which you can see being taken out of the projector at about the 7:30 mark in the video. Missing from the video, but present in my projector, is a small aluminum clip that mounts to the same screw that holds one end of the cinema filter top guide plate in place; that's the aluminum bit with wires coming off of it on the opposite end for some contact switches it uses to track the position of the cinema filter (basically piece of IR filter glass in a movable plastic housing).
> 
> 
> At startup, it tries to move the filter back and forth to determine its current location, and then parks it out of the light path unless you're in a mode that uses it. The aluminum clip in my projector, but not in the video, appears to have a purpose of holding the lens in place that the video is describing pushing back into proper position. So perhaps a later iteration of the projector added that to keep the lens from falling out when mounted upside down. In any case, the filter would try to push over into the light path and jam into this clip, so the clip itself was out of place for some reason. I couldn't get it to play nice, and given the glass lens seemed to be firmly in place, I simply removed the clip. Reassembled and projector went back to normal functionality. I use mine strictly for gaming and NFL, so I actually tried to remove the cinema filter, and then with/without its sensor plugs connected, but all variations stopped the startup process so it appears there's not a way to get rid of it.


I've left my broken projector in a box for a couple months and it was sitting on its side. I went to double check what was working on it and it powered up today. I played around with it and I got a error message saying error in the epson cinema filter. It worked fine till I powered it down and tried restarting. I got the dual blinking red lights again. Is possible to test the projector without the filter?


----------



## descalabro

Hi,

I don’t think it is. The projector has a filter routine every time it goes on and every time it goes off too. But if you’re willing to open the projector to remove the filter, then you may at least try to understand if there’s any issue with the filter motor. Who knows you only need to reseat it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pdisme

Could be that same aluminum clip that gave me trouble. You'll have to take it apart and see if the filter is getting stuck going in/out of the light path.


----------



## erehwon

Thanks. I'll take a look at it. It would be nice if it was something simple. I at least got lucky and was able to see that the bulb works. I picked it up broken from a garage sale for $12. Even if I can't fix it, I didn't loose anything since I sold off the remote on ebay.


----------



## MCMLXXVII

Hi all - My 8350 is getting blotches, especially on red or white areas. I can actually bring the spots into focus (see below), so it seems to be dust or something actually inside the lens. 

Any thoughts on how to clean this out of there? I believe the lens is supposed to be a sealed unit, correct?

Would replacing the lamp help? 

Note - I already tried the "dust blob" fix that posted awhile back with no results. 

Thanks!


----------



## cmacclel

MCMLXXVII said:


> Hi all - My 8350 is getting blotches, especially on red or white areas. I can actually bring the spots into focus (see below), so it seems to be dust or something actually inside the lens.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to clean this out of there? I believe the lens is supposed to be a sealed unit, correct?
> 
> Would replacing the lamp help?
> 
> Note - I already tried the "dust blob" fix that posted awhile back with no results.
> 
> Thanks!



No cleaning is going to help that. Time for a new projector.


----------



## descalabro

MCMLXXVII said:


> Hi all - My 8350 is getting blotches, especially on red or white areas. I can actually bring the spots into focus (see below), so it seems to be dust or something actually inside the lens.
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on how to clean this out of there? I believe the lens is supposed to be a sealed unit, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Would replacing the lamp help?
> 
> 
> 
> Note - I already tried the "dust blob" fix that posted awhile back with no results.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




If this is dust, then it’s a huge amount of it. The blue haze in the first photo looks like a polarizer issue to me. The other photos may be dust, but more than what I’ve seen before. Noticeable dust usually sits on the LCD panels and polarizers, not inside the lens. He easiest way to remove it is to use an air compressor blowing the air in a direction almost parallel to the panel (never perpendicular to it!). If you remove the optical block entirely (it comes out as a single block), you can blow air and it will have plenty of space to escape underneath without compromising any part of the projector. I also recommend using a moist filter at the end of the hose, before the blowing gun. I’ve done it often, there’s no risk to the LCD panels if you blow the air in the direction I said. If you need further help, I can be more specific.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gandalf Corvotempesta

Anyone knows if is possibile to reduce the light output even in ECO mode? Is still too bright

Epson 3100 has the same lamp but a lower light output so it should be limited by software

I'm able to access to the dip-sw menu, anything useful there?


----------



## rakstr

Have you reviewed the Brightness control settings?????

https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/plhc87u/plhc87uug.pdf



Gandalf Corvotempesta said:


> Anyone knows if is possibile to reduce the light output even in ECO mode? Is still too bright
> 
> Epson 3100 has the same lamp but a lower light output so it should be limited by software
> 
> I'm able to access to the dip-sw menu, anything useful there?


----------



## Tesla1856

Gandalf Corvotempesta said:


> Anyone knows if is possibile to reduce the light output even in ECO mode? Is still too bright
> 
> Epson 3100 has the same lamp but a lower light output so it should be limited by software
> 
> I'm able to access to the dip-sw menu, anything useful there?


Not sure I follow.

8350 in ECO-Mode (actually in any Mode) is still not as bright as a LCD screen. If installed properly, it should look real nice. 

Are you sure it's working properly?

Are you using a color mode like Natural or Cinema ... with Brightness set kinda low?


----------



## Gandalf Corvotempesta

Tesla1856 said:


> Not sure I follow.
> 
> 8350 in ECO-Mode (actually in any Mode) is still not as bright as a LCD screen. If installed properly, it should look real nice.
> 
> Are you sure it's working properly?
> 
> Are you using a color mode like Natural or Cinema ... with Brightness set kinda low?


I've wrote the wrong model number. I'm using a 3700/6700 but it doesn't change.
My projector is 3000 lumen, too much for a living with a 1.2 gain screen.

I have to bring down (a lot) the brightness. I cant lower it from the brightness menu , because the image will result too dark.
My biggest issue is that some black areas are totally flat. Probably due to high light reflection from screen to the wall and then from the wall to the screen.

I would like to try an ND2 filter, but:
1) where should I buy it?
2) which size do I need ?
3) how to connect the filter to the lens ?


----------



## Tesla1856

Gandalf Corvotempesta said:


> I've wrote the wrong model number. I'm using a 3700/6700


Then search and use this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...sd-msrp/2538321-epson-home-cinema-3700-a.html


----------



## NY54321

*Verizon Fios One/ Epson 8350 not compatible*

I recently swapped out all of my old Verizon Fios boxes with the brand new Fios One boxes that only have been out for a few months now. None of these new Verizon One boxes work with my Epson 8350, or my Denon AVR-4520CI receiver. My setup has always been that all of my devices (cable box, PS4, Blu-Ray Player, 8350 projector, Plasma TV) would all work with my Denon receiver. Now that I added this new cable box, the receiver isn't recognizing the box, by just saying no signal. So no matter if i use my plasma or 8350 connected through the Denon receiver, its not working. I even tried directly connecting the cable box via HDMI directly to the 8350 and again no signal. The 8350 still works through the Denon receiver if I'm watching the Blu-Ray player, or PS4. Also the cable box works when its directly connected to the TV only. I called all 3 companies, Epson, Denon, and Verizon and none of them can give me an answer. Verizon tech support claims I'm the only person they heard call in about this, and they will send the report to the team. Epson said if it works with your other devices, then its the fault of the Cable box. Denon says it could be a coding issue since the new cable box is 4k capable and since the Denon isn't I would have to upgrade the my receiver. Verizon says that shouldn't be the problem because the boxes aren't set to 4k yet. It just sucks because I just replaces all 7 cable boxes in my house with the new boxes. So as of now my choices are to buy both new projectors and receivers that have the latest technology to work with the new boxes (which I don't want to do), or replace all of my new boxes back to the old boxes which I really don't want to do either. You can't just swap out one box because all the new boxes must work with each other. I was hoping someone here can help me with any type of information with this issue. I know that will be a tough one because these Verizon boxes just came out. Thanks


----------



## rakstr

My first thought is cables. Do you have any NEW premium high speed certified HDMI cables to try? If not, pick some up. Monoprice is a great source.



NY54321 said:


> I recently swapped out all of my old Verizon Fios boxes with the brand new Fios One boxes that only have been out for a few months now. None of these new Verizon One boxes work with my Epson 8350, or my Denon AVR-4520CI receiver. My setup has always been that all of my devices (cable box, PS4, Blu-Ray Player, 8350 projector, Plasma TV) would all work with my Denon receiver. Now that I added this new cable box, the receiver isn't recognizing the box, by just saying no signal. So no matter if i use my plasma or 8350 connected through the Denon receiver, its not working. I even tried directly connecting the cable box via HDMI directly to the 8350 and again no signal. The 8350 still works through the Denon receiver if I'm watching the Blu-Ray player, or PS4. Also the cable box works when its directly connected to the TV only. I called all 3 companies, Epson, Denon, and Verizon and none of them can give me an answer. Verizon tech support claims I'm the only person they heard call in about this, and they will send the report to the team. Epson said if it works with your other devices, then its the fault of the Cable box. Denon says it could be a coding issue since the new cable box is 4k capable and since the Denon isn't I would have to upgrade the my receiver. Verizon says that shouldn't be the problem because the boxes aren't set to 4k yet. It just sucks because I just replaces all 7 cable boxes in my house with the new boxes. So as of now my choices are to buy both new projectors and receivers that have the latest technology to work with the new boxes (which I don't want to do), or replace all of my new boxes back to the old boxes which I really don't want to do either. You can't just swap out one box because all the new boxes must work with each other. I was hoping someone here can help me with any type of information with this issue. I know that will be a tough one because these Verizon boxes just came out. Thanks


----------



## NY54321

rakstr said:


> My first thought is cables. Do you have any NEW premium high speed certified HDMI cables to try? If not, pick some up. Monoprice is a great source.


About 6 years ago, I bought thick, premium high speed HDMI wires from Monoprice. I'm not sure if 6 years or so are not as new anymore but included in my new Verizon boxes were new HDMI wires and I tried those also which didn't work. This problem is driving me crazy!


----------



## rakstr

Nope, buy at least one new cable and it it exclusively to test. How long are your cables?????

Also, make sure you power everything down when changing cables. If you're still having issues, power down, disconnect all power cords, wait about a minute and then power things up..... You may even want to do a reset to factory but that would be a last resort for me.



NY54321 said:


> About 6 years ago, I bought thick, premium high speed HDMI wires from Monoprice. I'm not sure if 6 years or so are not as new anymore but included in my new Verizon boxes were new HDMI wires and I tried those also which didn't work. This problem is driving me crazy!


----------



## NY54321

rakstr said:


> Nope, buy at least one new cable and it it exclusively to test. How long are your cables?????
> 
> Also, make sure you power everything down when changing cables. If you're still having issues, power down, disconnect all power cords, wait about a minute and then power things up..... You may even want to do a reset to factory but that would be a last resort for me.


The cable that runs to my projector is very long i would say about 15-20 feet but I also tried a very short cable that was about 2-3 feet that went directly to my receiver from the cable box and that didn't work either.


----------



## rakstr

You mean you tried that 2-3 foot cable between the cable box and the projector? Did you power everything down and back up? Are you sure you used the right HDMI port on the projector?

Can you test that cable and the cable box on a TV? Does the cable that you say came with the cable box work between the cable box and a TV?

Sorry if a lot of this seems obvious but it was tough for me to follow everything you've actually tried here. If the cable box works when directly connected to a TV and if using that same cable doesn't work with the projector AFTER powering everything down then the only thing I can think of is the cable needs to be replaced....

I'm sure someone with better ideas will come along.



NY54321 said:


> The cable that runs to my projector is very long i would say about 15-20 feet but I also tried a very short cable that was about 2-3 feet that went directly to my receiver from the cable box and that didn't work either.


----------



## Tesla1856

NY54321 said:


> 1. The 8350 still works through the Denon receiver if I'm watching the Blu-Ray player, or PS4.
> 
> 2. Epson said if it works with your other devices, then its the fault of the Cable box.
> 
> 3. Verizon says that shouldn't be the problem because the boxes aren't set to 4k yet


1. Sounds like a bad Verizon "cable box" aka STB or DVR (if it records).

2. Agreed

3. Sounds like they are grasping-for-straws or trying to shift blame. So much for being an early adopter.


----------



## rakstr

This is why I'm trying to understand if the cable box works with anything. He said it worked when directly connected to a TV so I don't get why it won't work with either the 8350 or the receiver unless the cable is possibly flaky.

_Also the cable box works when its directly connected to the TV only._​


Tesla1856 said:


> 1. Sounds like a bad Verizon "cable box" aka STB or DVR (if it records).
> 
> 2. Agreed
> 
> 3. Sounds like they are grasping-for-straws or trying to shift blame. So much for being an early adopter.


----------



## Tesla1856

rakstr said:


> This is why I'm trying to understand ...
> 
> _ the cable box works when its directly connected to the TV _​


You already mentioned "HDMI cables" so I went with "HDMI signal negotiation failure" ... due to "bad code" in Verizon STB. I see Denon tech also mentioned it.


----------



## NY54321

Taking your advice I called Monoprice tech support to find out what year i bought my HDMI cables and I found out I bought them 5 years ago. He said since the same HDMI cable works when I hook the cable box directly to the TV, and doesn't work when hooked from the cable box to the projector/Denon receiver that the HDMI cable is not the problem. He thinks it has to do with HDCP copyright information. He looked up the specs of my Denon, and projector and said they were HDCP 1.4, and said the new cable box is probably 2.2. I'm not sure if this is the answer because I told him that my TV was purchased at the same time as the projector and receiver so they should all have similar HDMI specs. He tried to look up the specs to my TV but it didn't show what the HDCP for the HDMI ports were. Now I will try and call Verizon back to see what exactly the HDCP numbers are for the new boxes and is there any way they can be lowered. The monoprice tech guy seemed to give me better information than all 3 tech Denon, Verizon, and Epson combined lol


----------



## ianbtv

Hi all -

I have an Epson 8350 that I have pulled out of storage. 1400 hours lamp time, all on ECO mode. No problems while I used it (2012-2013), and I am tired of using an LED TV to watch movies. 

I only intend to the 8350 for cinema-style viewing (always a darkened room or nighttime). I'll retain my current Samsung 49" MU7000 for daytime/broadcast TV viewing. My movie collection does not include any 4K material, and I doubt that I will purchase any 4K content until it is impossible to not do so. I'm happy to buy the Epson replacement lamp ($250) when the time comes. I have a new Elite Screens Spectrum Electric100H ready to install. The projector will have a 13 foot throw distance to the 100" diagonal screen.

My question is: are there any longevity issues with the non-wearable parts? that is: what have been any failure points for 8350's which have been used properly?

Thanks for your input -

Ian Campbell
Williston, VT USA


----------



## Tesla1856

ianbtv said:


> are there any longevity issues with the non-wearable parts? that is: what have been any failure points for 8350's which have been used properly?
> 
> Thanks for your input -
> 
> Ian Campbell
> Williston, VT USA


Not that I know of.

Mine was purchased at BestBuy in Aug 2011 and still works perfectly. I guess that says something.
In Oct 2016 I installed a new (Epson genuine) lamp and new air filter

In 2017, I did have a problem with the front fan. Cleaning it and a drop of oil on bearing got it going again . It worked fine but this is a job better left to a qualified technician (I like to think I barely am) .


----------



## Str8enem

*Issues with Bluray player and Apple TV working on the 8350*

Could use some help. My 8350 projector is great. It works fine with my cable tv, but when I switch imputs to bluray or in particular apple tv it has a hard time keeping the picture constant. It looks fine initially but I'll get a static pink/random colored screen frequently during usage with these items. It's happening every 5-10 seconds with Apple TV. I've switched out the HDMI cable thinking it might be that, but it hasn't helped. 
Thoughts. Love the projector, but this really limits it.
TIA,
Matt


----------



## rakstr

Are you direct connected?
How long is the cable?
Is it a certified high speed cable?



Str8enem said:


> Could use some help. My 8350 projector is great. It works fine with my cable tv, but when I switch imputs to bluray or in particular apple tv it has a hard time keeping the picture constant. It looks fine initially but I'll get a static pink/random colored screen frequently during usage with these items. It's happening every 5-10 seconds with Apple TV. I've switched out the HDMI cable thinking it might be that, but it hasn't helped.
> Thoughts. Love the projector, but this really limits it.
> TIA,
> Matt


----------



## Tesla1856

Str8enem said:


> My 8350 projector is great.
> 
> It works fine with my cable tv, but when I switch imputs to bluray or in particular apple tv it has a hard time keeping the picture constant.


Apple-TV (Gen-4 ... the non-4K one) and Blu-Ray Player working fine here.

Since it happens with both of your "high bandwidth" devices, I would guess cables or maybe your AVR.

I only use plain (non Redmere) heavy (26-24) gauge HDMI cables. Most are under 10 ft.


----------



## curtlots

Well, after nearly 7 enjoyable years of use, I believe my 8350 went to the big projectorland in the sky. I got it as a refurb in April of 2012, my first projector, and it's been a joy to have. I posted a couple pictures of what's happening, but have to say I've already ordered a different projector. The pics are more or less to confirm my suspician that this projector has met it's final day. 

I had this issue happen while watching the Superbowl this year. I turned it off, and then turned it back on after 10 minutes. Problem gone, untill this past Sunday, when it happened again. I've been turning my system on every day since, but the issue seems to be permanent. Any idea what could be causing this?


----------



## descalabro

curtlots said:


> Well, after nearly 7 enjoyable years of use, I believe my 8350 went to the big projectorland in the sky. I got it as a refurb in April of 2012, my first projector, and it's been a joy to have. I posted a couple pictures of what's happening, but have to say I've already ordered a different projector. The pics are more or less to confirm my suspician that this projector has met it's final day.
> 
> 
> 
> I had this issue happen while watching the Superbowl this year. I turned it off, and then turned it back on after 10 minutes. Problem gone, untill this past Sunday, when it happened again. I've been turning my system on every day since, but the issue seems to be permanent. Any idea what could be causing this?




The blue LCD is probably failing. That’s why some parts become yellow, because blue is not mixing with red and green to produce white.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## curtlots

descalabro said:


> The blue LCD is probably failing. That’s why some parts become yellow, because blue is not mixing with red and green to produce white.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you think one of the LCD panels failing could be an intermittent issue? Funny thing happened this week. I'm preparing my theater room for the new projector. FWIW it's going to be a BenQ HT3550 that's capable of 4K @ 60hz. Because of this, I swapped out my two 35' long HDMI cables running from my receiver to the projector with HDMI 2.0 spec cables. Since the 8350 still produces a picture, I used it so I could correctly label the HDMI cables, I had no idea which was which after fishing them through my walls and ceiling. I was surprised that when I started the projector, the colors / picture were back to normal. 

When I initially had this problem, I had switched between the two HDMI cables that I already had running to the projector, tried different sources, etc... but nothing made a difference. Even though I feel I did the proper trouble shooting, I'm left with the feeling in the back of my mind that perhaps the Epson is not at fault. I guess I'll have a few weeks to see if anything changes because the shipping dates for the BenQ HT3550 projectors may have been pushed back a few weeks.


----------



## descalabro

curtlots said:


> Do you think one of the LCD panels failing could be an intermittent issue? Funny thing happened this week. I'm preparing my theater room for the new projector. FWIW it's going to be a BenQ HT3550 that's capable of 4K @ 60hz. Because of this, I swapped out my two 35' long HDMI cables running from my receiver to the projector with HDMI 2.0 spec cables. Since the 8350 still produces a picture, I used it so I could correctly label the HDMI cables, I had no idea which was which after fishing them through my walls and ceiling. I was surprised that when I started the projector, the colors / picture were back to normal.
> 
> 
> 
> When I initially had this problem, I had switched between the two HDMI cables that I already had running to the projector, tried different sources, etc... but nothing made a difference. Even though I feel I did the proper trouble shooting, I'm left with the feeling in the back of my mind that perhaps the Epson is not at fault. I guess I'll have a few weeks to see if anything changes because the shipping dates for the BenQ HT3550 projectors may have been pushed back a few weeks.




Yes, failure of 1 LCD panel or even 1 of the 3 colors may be intermittent and also may be related to the input port or input cable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## curtlots

descalabro said:


> Yes, failure of 1 LCD panel or even 1 of the 3 colors may be intermittent and also may be related to the input port or input cable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the response!


----------



## veekay

Silly question, but can this projector output anything higher than 30fps? It never mattered to me before, but now with so many things wanting to run at 60fps I didn't know if the PJ could even handle that.


----------



## HT_Dean

*bulb question*

Not sure how many are still posting here but I have 8350. I am on my second bulb (generic) and it just passed the 4000 hour mark. Noticed the power light and the lamp light both flashing which indicates "replace bulb soon" according to the manual. I ordered another generic but decided to see if I just reset the hours on the lamp if the warning lights would go off. They did. The bulb itself is not showing any dimming so am I ok? Or should I go ahead and replace the bulb? Any harm in riding it out until it dies?


----------



## mach250

So mine died recently with both lights flashing red so I upgraded to the 6050. If anyones interested before I tossed it in the trash I took it apart, it's a pretty large task to get everything apart to remove dust from the different glass elements/filters. It would be nice if the light path was sealed so no dust would enter it at all and it shouldn't be difficult or expensive to add a plastic "lid" to the section.


----------



## descalabro

I’ve disassembled a few of these. The lightpath itself usually doesn’t get too much dust. It’s not sealed, but the air isn’t blown in that direction, but rather directly into the polarizer filters and LCD panels. And that’s why the system isn’t sealed. With air coming directly towards those panels, it’s anything but sealed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## redeye42

HT_Dean said:


> Not sure how many are still posting here but I have 8350. I am on my second bulb (generic) and it just passed the 4000 hour mark. Noticed the power light and the lamp light both flashing which indicates "replace bulb soon" according to the manual. I ordered another generic but decided to see if I just reset the hours on the lamp if the warning lights would go off. They did. The bulb itself is not showing any dimming so am I ok? Or should I go ahead and replace the bulb? Any harm in riding it out until it dies?


In the same situation here with a factory bulb. I am sure it is a lot dimmer and a new bulb is here in the box.

Curious if there is an issue with riding out the bulb. Otherwise the pj is working fine.


----------



## redeye42

Well the intermittent cinema filter motor problem finally became nearly every time my 8350 and, while I bought the parts a while back, I am debating tackling the daunting fix project at all. Sadly there is a nearly new Ep$on bulb in the PJ.

On a guess, I bought a new Epson 2150 which is about half the price the 8350 was. I really only need an HD pj and my eyes aren't getting any better. I didn't really need an upgrade per se, I would have been happy if the 8350 just kept on truckin.

From what I can tell so far the 2150 is half the price, half the size, quieter, lighter, nearly no noise, cheaper consumables, has similar lens shift and similar output and capability as the 8350, plus a few more modern features. The one downside seems to be the mount pattern is different so you'll need a new ceiling mount.

Anyone looking for a cost saving fix to a failing 8350 might consider this option.


----------



## JThiessen

My 8350 power input just dumped the other night. Ordered a 6030UB off the Epson refurb/clearance site.
I just replaced the buib in it, has about 70-100 hours on it I'd guess. Also have the original bulb (when I did the replacement, didnt notice any improvement in the image, so I assume the original still has some good life left it in).
Both are Epson part numbers.
PM me if your interested in these.


----------



## srauly

Well, it's been a long, long time since I've posted in this forum, but here I am. I've had my 8350 for many years. Over time, it developed a few dust blobs, but I ignored them and no one else complained. More recently I got the error message on startup about the bulb dying (I forget what the exact error message was). I ignored it and continued to use it for several more weeks. Tonight, I powered up the projector, it made some noise, but nothing was shown on my screen. No light from the projector at all. After about a minute, it shut down by itself. I waited a while and tried again, and got the same result.

So is it a safe bet that the problem is just the bulb needing to be replaced? If so, is one of the aftermarket $90 bulbs "good enough" for a while? I saw some reviews of this bulb indicating that the projector would emit a faint beep (I guess it doesn't like the bulb). Is that always the case? That would be a deal-killer for me.

I also see that B&H Photo supposedly has the official bulb for sale for about $250. Should I just go with that?

Or maybe I should just buy a brand new projector? I need something with the same sort of zoom range and shift. If there's something that offers that and is super-cheap, I'd consider it. But my wife and I are looking to sell our house and downsize, and I suspect that I'll just want to use a large flatscreen TV in the new house. So I don't want to spend much on this, but I'm also thinking that it could be a selling point to give it away with our house.

So, bottom line...what's the best bang-for-the-buck bulb option for the 8350?


----------



## jdfrietze

srauly said:


> Well, it's been a long, long time since I've posted in this forum, but here I am. I've had my 8350 for many years. Over time, it developed a few dust blobs, but I ignored them and no one else complained. More recently I got the error message on startup about the bulb dying (I forget what the exact error message was). I ignored it and continued to use it for several more weeks. Tonight, I powered up the projector, it made some noise, but nothing was shown on my screen. No light from the projector at all. After about a minute, it shut down by itself. I waited a while and tried again, and got the same result.
> 
> So is it a safe bet that the problem is just the bulb needing to be replaced? If so, is one of the aftermarket $90 bulbs "good enough" for a while? I saw some reviews of this bulb indicating that the projector would emit a faint beep (I guess it doesn't like the bulb). Is that always the case? That would be a deal-killer for me.
> 
> I also see that B&H Photo supposedly has the official bulb for sale for about $250. Should I just go with that?
> 
> Or maybe I should just buy a brand new projector? I need something with the same sort of zoom range and shift. If there's something that offers that and is super-cheap, I'd consider it. But my wife and I are looking to sell our house and downsize, and I suspect that I'll just want to use a large flatscreen TV in the new house. So I don't want to spend much on this, but I'm also thinking that it could be a selling point to give it away with our house.
> 
> So, bottom line...what's the best bang-for-the-buck bulb option for the 8350?


Wow, What a coincidence. Mine just did the same thing. Usually I would suggest Pureland Supply as they generally have the best price on OEM lamps. But the one I put in was less than a month old. I pulled it out this morning and put the old one back in and it started right up. 

If you want something a little newer, woot.com has some refurbished 5030UBs with the same lens shift and zoom capabilities for a decent price. Still 1080p, but brighter with better contrast, and 3D capability if you care about that. If this one hadn't come back on, I probably would have pulled the trigger.


----------



## srauly

Thanks for the reply. I took a look at that woot deal, and it's probably more than I'd like to spend ($710) on something that I'll most likely just be leaving behind with my house when I sell it.

I'll do some more searching in this thread regarding replacement bulbs. And will also have to get up-to-speed on the latest recommendations regarding cleaning the dust blobs (or see if it's more complicated than I think I'll be able to handle).


----------



## srauly

Well, in light of this coronavirus thing and seeing that the country is moving into a "stay in your home" mode for some amount of time, our hopes of selling our house and moving might be on hold for a while. I'm now even considering purchasing a brand new projector. One of the things I liked/needed about the 8350 was its great zoom and lens shift capabilities. I use mine with a custom 2.34:1 screen, so I zoom it in when watching 16:9 content, and zoom it out for wider aspect ratio content.

If I do decide to buy a new projector, I figure I should go 4K.

Epson has the 3200, 3800, and 4010 models, all with a good amount of lens zoom and shift. What other brands/models should I consider? I wouldn't want to spend more than $2000. Closer to $1000 would be even nicer.

I'm also intrigued by some of these laser projectors. Can anyone give me a quick rundown on the pros/cons with those compared to something like my 8350? The VAVA that I'm seeing is a short-throw projector, so I'd have to rethink my setup, and I suspect it wouldn't even be workable with my dual-screen-size situation.


----------



## mpkid123

srauly said:


> Well, in light of this coronavirus thing and seeing that the country is moving into a "stay in your home" mode for some amount of time, our hopes of selling our house and moving might be on hold for a while. I'm now even considering purchasing a brand new projector. One of the things I liked/needed about the 8350 was its great zoom and lens shift capabilities. I use mine with a custom 2.34:1 screen, so I zoom it in when watching 16:9 content, and zoom it out for wider aspect ratio content.
> 
> If I do decide to buy a new projector, I figure I should go 4K.
> 
> Epson has the 3200, 3800, and 4010 models, all with a good amount of lens zoom and shift. What other brands/models should I consider? I wouldn't want to spend more than $2000. Closer to $1000 would be even nicer.
> 
> I'm also intrigued by some of these laser projectors. Can anyone give me a quick rundown on the pros/cons with those compared to something like my 8350? The VAVA that I'm seeing is a short-throw projector, so I'd have to rethink my setup, and I suspect it wouldn't even be workable with my dual-screen-size situation.


I just upgraded a month ago from the 8350 (which was fantastic over the years) to the Epson 3800. I wanted to get into 4K and took the leap and I am very pleased with the results. It upgrades 1080P to 4K flawlessly and I could not be happier. Go with the 3800 and you won't regret it!


----------



## srauly

mpkid123 said:


> I just upgraded a month ago from the 8350 (which was fantastic over the years) to the Epson 3800. I wanted to get into 4K and took the leap and I am very pleased with the results. It upgrades 1080P to 4K flawlessly and I could not be happier. Go with the 3800 and you won't regret it!


Thanks for the reply. I actually pulled the trigger yesterday on a refurb 5040UB from Epson's store. Hoping I get a good one.


----------



## F12Bwth

srauly said:


> Well, in light of this coronavirus thing and seeing that the country is moving into a "stay in your home" mode for some amount of time, our hopes of selling our house and moving might be on hold for a while. I'm now even considering purchasing a brand new projector. One of the things I liked/needed about the 8350 was its great zoom and lens shift capabilities. I use mine with a custom 2.34:1 screen, so I zoom it in when watching 16:9 content, and zoom it out for wider aspect ratio content.
> 
> If I do decide to buy a new projector, I figure I should go 4K.
> 
> Epson has the 3200, 3800, and 4010 models, all with a good amount of lens zoom and shift. What other brands/models should I consider? I wouldn't want to spend more than $2000. Closer to $1000 would be even nicer.
> 
> I'm also intrigued by some of these laser projectors. Can anyone give me a quick rundown on the pros/cons with those compared to something like my 8350? The VAVA that I'm seeing is a short-throw projector, so I'd have to rethink my setup, and I suspect it wouldn't even be workable with my dual-screen-size situation.


When I do my final upgrade to 4k I will probably spend a ton on it but I need the lens shift and if I go 4k I would need to re-run my HDMI, Change my TV to match and possibly change my receiver (since I clone the TV and projector through it).. So I got that Referbished Epson 5030ub on Amazon for $774 Delivered. 90 Day return policy if anything is wrong. Keeps me 1080p but with a brand new bulb and no dust blobs, same lens shift and better brightness and contrast then my trusty but dirty 8350.


----------



## PhotonEngine

*Both red blinking lights*

Has anyone here had an Epson 6500, 8500, or 8535 blink the lamp AND the temp light and then shut off?

The book says it is problem with auto iris or cinema filter? any ideas?


----------



## JP

I just reviewed many of the posts here, but couldn't find any consensus around what bulbs are working well for this projector nowadays? My 8350 has been going strong since it first came out, but the image is pretty dim right now so I know it is due. I noticed there are tons of bulbs going cheap (below $90) on Amazon. Then there is Pureland Supply, which seems to have some following. Then there are places like ProjectorPeople and Visual Apex that provide the actual Epson bulb. Does anyone have experience with the cheaper bulbs and whether they work well or not? Any guidance here is appreciated.


----------



## noob00224

JP said:


> I just reviewed many of the posts here, but couldn't find any consensus around what bulbs are working well for this projector nowadays? My 8350 has been going strong since it first came out, but the image is pretty dim right now so I know it is due. I noticed there are tons of bulbs going cheap (below $90) on Amazon. Then there is Pureland Supply, which seems to have some following. Then there are places like ProjectorPeople and Visual Apex that provide the actual Epson bulb. Does anyone have experience with the cheaper bulbs and whether they work well or not? Any guidance here is appreciated.


It's a roulette. Maybe you're lucky, maybe not. These lamps can also be less bright then regular ones. On the whole buying an original lamp can be safer and more cost effective in case that one blows up.


----------



## Tesla1856

JP said:


> I just reviewed many of the posts here, but couldn't find any consensus around what bulbs are working well for this projector nowadays? My 8350 has been going strong since it first came out, but the image is pretty dim right now so I know it is due. I noticed there are tons of bulbs going cheap (below $90) on Amazon. Then there is Pureland Supply, which seems to have some following. Then there are places like ProjectorPeople and Visual Apex that provide the actual Epson bulb. Does anyone have experience with the cheaper bulbs and whether they work well or not? Any guidance here is appreciated.


2011- I purchased this projector new from BestBuy .

2016 - New* Genuine Epson.com $300 lamp* .
- ECO-Mode looks fine and plenty-bright again, and lowered brightness back to 5. Also, new air filter.

Genuine Lamp: 200w Ultra High Efficiency E-TORL (ELPLP49 / V13H010L49)
- Producing 2000-Lumens/2000-Lumens (color/white light output)

Genuine Filter: V13H134A21

2020 - Still works perfectly on this same genuine lamp. We use projector almost every night.


----------



## JP

Thanks guys. I'll stick with a genuine Epson lamp replacement. I used to buy bulbs from Visual Apex because they were a sponsor of AVSforum and they carried the bulb, but it looks like they have moved to exclusively selling screens. Is there another supplier that comes recommended nowadays?


----------



## Tesla1856

JP said:


> Thanks guys. I'll stick with a genuine Epson lamp replacement. I used to buy bulbs from Visual Apex because they were a sponsor of AVSforum and they carried the bulb, but it looks like they have moved to exclusively selling screens. Is there another supplier that comes recommended nowadays?


Not sure why it is out-of-stock. Maybe call them and see when they expect more ?
https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L49

I would trust B&H Photo Epson parts to be genuine.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605594-REG/Epson_V13H010L49_E_TORL_Projector_Lamp_for.html


----------



## JP

Tesla1856 said:


> Not sure why it is out-of-stock. Maybe call them and see when they expect more ?
> https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L49
> 
> I would trust B&H Photo Epson parts to be genuine.
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605594-REG/Epson_V13H010L49_E_TORL_Projector_Lamp_for.html


Thanks. I went ahead and bought from Projectorpeople.com since I know they are very reputable. I could have probably saved $50 by buying from B&H, but I noticed they had two different bulbs for the Epson 8350 and I'm not sure why. One is just more expensive than the other, but comments suggest they are both Epson products? Weird. Anyway, at least I know I'm getting the real deal from Projector People. Thanks again.


----------



## Novelist

Hey guys,
I am new to the website and new to the world of home theatre in general as well so thank you for having me. I recently built my room and I am just now getting some of the equipment out and testing it. I purchased the 8350 because a friend of mine has it and was really happy with it. Found a good deal so I jumped on it. One thing that I noticed is there are these weird faded smudges on it as pictured here. I zoomed in and out and they did not change in size even though the size of the picture did.

Also, there are some off color vertical lines pictured here in the second picture. These do change with the picture as I zoom in and out. Any ideas as to what would cause these issues? I am pretty handy with fixing things like speakers and tvs so if its something that I can fix by taking the projector apart, I am not afraid to do so. 

Any help is greatly appreciated. I look forward to using this site to learn and build a better home viewing experience for my family and I. If anyone recommends a thread I could cross post this in, please let me know and I will do so.


----------



## Novelist

Novelist said:


> Hey guys,
> I am new to the website and new to the world of home theatre in general as well so thank you for having me. I recently built my room and I am just now getting some of the equipment out and testing it. I purchased the 8350 because a friend of mine has it and was really happy with it. Found a good deal so I jumped on it. One thing that I noticed is there are these weird faded smudges on it as pictured here. I zoomed in and out and they did not change in size even though the size of the picture did.
> 
> Also, there are some off color horizontal lines pictured here in the second picture. These do change with the picture as I zoom in and out. Any ideas as to what would cause these issues? I am pretty handy with fixing things like speakers and tvs so if its something that I can fix by taking the projector apart, I am not afraid to do so.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated. I look forward to using this site to learn and build a better home viewing experience for my family and I. If anyone recommends a thread I could cross post this in, please let me know and I will do so.


I mentioned vertical lines but what I meant was horizontal. My apologies.


----------



## noob00224

Novelist said:


> Hey guys,
> I am new to the website and new to the world of home theatre in general as well so thank you for having me. I recently built my room and I am just now getting some of the equipment out and testing it. I purchased the 8350 because a friend of mine has it and was really happy with it. Found a good deal so I jumped on it. One thing that I noticed is there are these weird faded smudges on it as pictured here. I zoomed in and out and they did not change in size even though the size of the picture did.
> 
> Also, there are some off color vertical lines pictured here in the second picture. These do change with the picture as I zoom in and out. Any ideas as to what would cause these issues? I am pretty handy with fixing things like speakers and tvs so if its something that I can fix by taking the projector apart, I am not afraid to do so.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated. I look forward to using this site to learn and build a better home viewing experience for my family and I. If anyone recommends a thread I could cross post this in, please let me know and I will do so.


Can't see the horizontal lines.

In regards to the other issue, try moving the projector left/right/around to see if the mark is not on the screen.
Do not clean the outside of the lens.


----------



## Novelist

noob00224 said:


> Can't see the horizontal lines.
> 
> In regards to the other issue, try moving the projector left/right/around to see if the mark is not on the screen.
> Do not clean the outside of the lens.


Thank you for the reply. As for the first issue. I think you may be right. This is just being projected onto a painted wall till I get my screen. What is throwing me off is that it is not visible with the lights on. I also changed the setting to make the image upside down and it looked like it moved with it. There is obviously multiple marks on the wall that I can't see until I project the light onto them. Funny enough my first thought was that it was paint roller marks. Thought I checked well enough to make sure thats what it was but I guess I didn't.

As for the horizontal lines. I took another picture here. Hopefully you can see it better here. There is two sets of two lines that span from each end of the image. The top two are the most visible and are just below the polar bears eyes in this image. The bottom two which are hard to see are right where his neck meets the snowy background behind him.


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## noob00224

Novelist said:


> Thank you for the reply. As for the first issue. I think you may be right. This is just being projected onto a painted wall till I get my screen. What is throwing me off is that it is not visible with the lights on. I also changed the setting to make the image upside down and it looked like it moved with it. There is obviously multiple marks on the wall that I can't see until I project the light onto them. Funny enough my first thought was that it was paint roller marks. Thought I checked well enough to make sure thats what it was but I guess I didn't.
> 
> As for the horizontal lines. I took another picture here. Hopefully you can see it better here. There is two sets of two lines that span from each end of the image. The top two are the most visible and are just below the polar bears eyes in this image. The bottom two which are hard to see are right where his neck meets the snowy background behind him.


So if the image is reversed 180 degrees the lines go with the image?

Try another video.
Try another HDMI port.

Any reflective objects in the room that could reflect off the lens?


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## Novelist

noob00224 said:


> So if the image is reversed 180 degrees the lines go with the image?
> 
> Try another video.
> Try another HDMI port.
> 
> Any reflective objects in the room that could reflect off the lens?


At first I thought that it was but there are other marks on the bottom that showed up when i flipped the image 180 degrees. Thats what threw me off cause that was the first thing i checked. When I tried what you suggested by moving the projector in different directions, the marks did not move with the image and stayed in the same location. So that solved that problem.

The horizontal lines on the other hand, move with the image when you zoom in and zoom out so I know that its not part of the wall or bouncing off a reflective surface.


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## Novelist

noob00224 said:


> So if the image is reversed 180 degrees the lines go with the image?
> 
> Try another video.
> Try another HDMI port.
> 
> Any reflective objects in the room that could reflect off the lens?


Also, I did try both HDMI ports and different videos and that didn't solve the issue.


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## Tesla1856

Novelist said:


> 1. I am new to the website and new to the world of home theatre in general as well so thank you for having me.
> 
> 2. I recently built my room and I am just now getting some of the equipment out and testing it.
> 
> 3. One thing that I noticed is there are these weird faded smudges on it as pictured here. Also, there are some off color vertical lines pictured here in the second picture.
> 
> 4. I purchased the 8350 because a friend of mine has it and was really happy with it. Found a good deal so I jumped on it. These do change with the picture as I zoom in and out. Any ideas as to what would cause these issues? I am pretty handy with fixing things like speakers and tvs so if its something that I can fix by taking the projector apart, I am not afraid to do so.


1. Welcome.

2. I envy you guys with "dedicated" theaters. I had the settle for a non-dedicated "multi-function room". At least the wife lets me have "visible" gear and speakers ... and maybe even a single wire showing here-and-there. 

3. Dust, hair-balls, and alignment issues are the enemy. I know how delicate and complicated these "3-LCD" units are inside. I would never consider buying a used one (or even one that had been "shipped around" a lot). Yes, used projectors without a 100% perfect picture sell cheap.

4. I bought mine in 2011 brand-new from BestBuy. Still works flawlessly (perfect Full-HD 1080p picture). I finally installed a new lamp and air filter back in 2016 (both Epson genuine parts). About 6 months before that, I had to open it and repair (clean and lube) main front fan. That's it for this unit. We use it almost every night.

I have cleaned the projector-case and also the front of main glass lens a couple of times (kitchen is near). I treated it like "fine optics" ... similar to cleaning a telescope, expensive binoculars, camera lens, etc. Basically, that means ... ultra-soft (usually 100% cotton) cloth, distilled water, the lightest touch possible, etc. If you don't think you can do that without scratching it, I would not try. 

Lots of good info and repair tips (some with pics) in this thread. Good luck.


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## Novelist

Tesla1856 said:


> 1. Welcome.
> 
> 2. I envy you guys with "dedicated" theaters. I had the settle for a non-dedicated "multi-function room". At least the wife lets me have "visible" gear and speakers ... and maybe even a single wire showing here-and-there.
> 
> 3. Dust, hair-balls, and alignment issues are the enemy. I know how delicate and complicated these "3-LCD" units are inside. I would never consider buying a used one (or even one that had been "shipped around" a lot). Yes, used projectors without a 100% perfect picture sell cheap.
> 
> 4. I bought mine in 2011 brand-new from BestBuy. Still works flawlessly (perfect Full-HD 1080p picture). I finally installed a new lamp and air filter back in 2016 (both Epson genuine parts). About 6 months before that, I had to open it and repair (clean and lube) main front fan. That's it for this unit. We use it almost every night.
> 
> I have cleaned the projector-case and also the front of main glass lens a couple of times (kitchen is near). I treated it like "fine optics" ... similar to cleaning a telescope, expensive binoculars, camera lens, etc. Basically, that means ... ultra-soft (usually 100% cotton) cloth, distilled water, the lightest touch possible, etc. If you don't think you can do that without scratching it, I would not try.
> 
> Lots of good info and repair tips (some with pics) in this thread. Good luck.


Thanks for your response. Having a room like this did not come easy. I built it myself with some supervision from a contractor friend via text messaging. While it is mostly a theatre room, it does have an office and bathroom and multiple lighting styles to give it more of a family room feel when it needs it. I've always been a do it yourself kind of guy and this was a stressful but fun learning experience all around.

I do Assistant Camera work sometimes so I do know how to properly handle camera lenses. I'd handle this the same way as you described. A good friend of mine is a director and he has a home theatre with this projector. He basically said the same thing you said about it's reliability. It's hard when everyone you work with has a projector lol. Bad influences on me all of them. JK. Seriously though, I am a huge movie lover and I own a ton of blu rays and dvds and I am geeking out now that I can actually see it starting to come to life. Still have to carpet the room and get some black out curtains and screen but it's getting close.

I suspect that something came out of alignment when this was shipped to me. I am hoping to confirm that before I attempt repair.

I look forward to digging into this thread.


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## Tesla1856

Novelist said:


> I suspect that something came out of alignment when this was shipped to me. I am hoping to confirm that before I attempt repair.


Is your 8350 new or used? If used, how old or how many hours on it? Do you know it's history?

I only mentioned cleaning outside of main-lens because someone said you can't/shouldn't. Internal lenses, optics, and LCD's are a different story. IIRC, someone tried and the special coating came right off and they were ruined.

Dust or dust-bunnies are your best hope. I suggest you clean and vacuum as you "go in" . I suggest not blowing a lot of air in (like with air compressor) because dust or debris will likely just end up in "light path". But do what ya gotta do. Just make sure you are working on the system's proper component (and that component's broken sub-system).

Doesn't look like an alignment issue to me. Seems like an alignment issue would show-up on Test Pattern (making it poor), or prevent a focused image. I've never heard of anyone successfully "re-aligning" anything inside. It's nothing like a DLP-projector inside ... 3-LCD is very complex optically. Additionally, IIRC, the motherboard is mounted on top with short-cables.

Personally, I think there are better options now-days (both for "better tech" projectors and now huge affordable LCD's).

Hard to believe all my stuff is around 10 years old already. My Onkyo works fine, but it lost it's OSD ability (so I have to program with front panel  ). The new Denon AVR I want is $1250 . Whether I go projector again or huge-LCD next ... I think $4000 is about right. I don't have that kind of money, so I baby my system's gear like an old car.


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## Novelist

Tesla1856 said:


> Is your 8350 new or used? If used, how old or how many hours on it? Do you know it's history?
> 
> I only mentioned cleaning outside of main-lens because someone said you can't/shouldn't. Internal lenses, optics, and LCD's are a different story. IIRC, someone tried and the special coating came right off and they were ruined.
> 
> Dust or dust-bunnies are your best hope. I suggest you clean and vacuum as you "go in" . I suggest not blowing a lot of air in (like with air compressor) because dust or debris will likely just end up in "light path". But do what ya gotta do. Just make sure you are working on the system's proper component (and that component's broken sub-system).
> 
> Doesn't look like an alignment issue to me. Seems like an alignment issue would show-up on Test Pattern (making it poor), or prevent a focused image. I've never heard of anyone successfully "re-aligning" anything inside. It's nothing like a DLP-projector inside ... 3-LCD is very complex optically. Additionally, IIRC, the motherboard is mounted on top with short-cables.
> 
> Personally, I think there are better options now-days (both for "better tech" projectors and now huge affordable LCD's).
> 
> Hard to believe all my stuff is around 10 years old already. My Onkyo works fine, but it lost it's OSD ability (so I have to program with front panel  ). The new Denon AVR I want is $1250 . Whether I go projector again or huge-LCD next ... I think $4000 is about right. I don't have that kind of money, so I baby my system's gear like an old car.


Hey sorry for the delay in my response. I was on a job for a couple days. I don't really know that much about the history. I just found a really good deal on it and jumped on it. The guy I bought it from was the original owner and he had just recently replaced the bulb for the first time. I did notice an electronics burning smell when I first got it and my friend recommended I purchase a factory Epson bulb so I ordered one off eBay. That did help with the smell and startup time but the smell is still there but only a fraction of what it was.

I assumed it was an alignment issue because there is a Youtube video I watched that seemed to match the issue I'm having. The guy takes apart his unit and once he gets to the source of the issue, it's this piece of glass that he pushes back in and thats it. It is a pretty complex breakdown but the video is super detailed and the folks in the comments section are very positive about their results after following his example. That's usually a good sign in my experience. Youtube has been like a mentor to me in multiple ventures since I work on everything like A/C units, cars, electronics, etc.

Heres the link if you want to see what I'm talking about :





I firmly believe in starting small in any hobby. For example, when you start playing guitar, you don't need to get the Fender Stratocaster or the Gibson Les Paul. You should start playing on something cheap until it gets to a point where it limits you. I do that with everything. Heck I'm still driving the same Honda I got 11 years ago. I'm about to hit 300K on it and I still love it.


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## Tesla1856

Novelist said:


> Heres the link if you want to see what I'm talking about :
> 
> Heck I'm still driving the same Honda I got 11 years ago. I'm about to hit 300K on it and I still love it.


Good video. Like I said, I had mine apart to maintenance front fan. It is PWM and MB could tell RPM was too low ... so it shuts-down and lights over-heat light. As for lamps, I kept my (originally installed Epson working but dim) lamp to help troubleshoot any future lamp problems without having to buy a new one.

Not many people have the skills or patience to tackle something like this. Probably just you, me and that guy in the video.  JK . Anyway, good luck with the repair and let us know how it goes.

Yeah, I had my 1994 Accord EX coupe (one of the first models with VTec engine) for 19 years until we traded it for a new 2014 Acura MDX SH-AWD with Tech-Package . We still have our 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan (awesome car and very fast). Most maintenance and repairs to these vehicles is/was done at Honda/Acura dealership (but I did some small stuff DIY ... especially on 1994-Accord as it got older). For example, I replaced thermostat and radiator/transmission-fluid cooler. Oh yeah, I successfully replaced leaking-capacitor on its ECU . 

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/fo...-accord-ex-tcu-throws-code-1-4-a-48279/page2/


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## thrillhouse763

I am receiving no HDMI output on my Denon S740H and no HDMI input on my Epson 8350 projector.

*Troubleshooting steps I have taken:*
-Factory reset AVR 5 times
-Tried a different TV on HDMI out from AVR (didn't work)
-Unplugged both the AVR and projector for multiple minutes and plugged back in
-Tried multiple HDMI ports on AVR and projector (all on AVR provide sound)
-Different HDMI cables from HDMI out on AVR and HDMI in on projector (didn't work)
-Hooked up Blu Ray player directly to HDMI 1 on projector (didn't work and confirmed this worked when hooked up to different display)

I am at a loss for why this is happening.

I only have one possible reason as to why. I recently got a very large spark on an outdoor outlet when plugging in a Traeger grill. It tripped the GFCI on another outlet. That outlet is upstream (or downstream?) from the GFCI outlet that I have my APC UPS 1500 plugged into. All devices are plugged into the surge protection outlets on the UPS.

Please help!


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## rekbones

ESD (Electro Static Discharge) is your most likely cause. Fried the HDMI chips in both devices. Kind of terminal as the main board in the projector at least needs to be replaced. Don't know if your AVR has a separate HDMI board. Try and find a donner projector that has a bad optical block is about your only hope or just right it off. This by far is the most common failure usually caused by near lightning strikes and long HDMI runs are highly sensitive to it.


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## thrillhouse763

rekbones said:


> ESD (Electro Static Discharge) is your most likely cause. Fried the HDMI chips in both devices. Kind of terminal as the main board in the projector at least needs to be replaced. Don't know if your AVR has a separate HDMI board. Try and find a donner projector that has a bad optical block is about your only hope or just right it off. This by far is the most common failure usually caused by near lightning strikes and long HDMI runs are highly sensitive to it.


Thank you so much for the reply. I do have a long HDMI run of 25 feet.

What could cause the ESD? The outlet that sparked? How did my UPS not protect my equipment?


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## dgkula

If you need an 8350 for parts let me know. Mine works well except for a yellow tint do I upgraded to a jvc rs620 four years ago and still have the Epson.


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## thrillhouse763

dgkula said:


> If you need an 8350 for parts let me know. Mine works well except for a yellow tint do I upgraded to a jvc rs620 four years ago and still have the Epson.


Appreciate the offer but I'll probably just upgrade to a 4k unit. That is after I follow all possible available recourse to me...home insurance and APC claim (it apparently did not protect my devices).


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## rekbones

thrillhouse763 said:


> Appreciate the offer but I'll probably just upgrade to a 4k unit. That is after I follow all possible available recourse to me...home insurance and APC claim (it apparently did not protect my devices).


A UPS/surge suppression gives zero protection from ESD contrary to popular belief. Your equipment doesn't even have to be plugged in. The long HDMI run is like an antenna to it. Don't know if your arcing equipment caused it or not.


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## natesht

Can anyone please suggest a good ceiling mount for the Epson 8350?


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## MississippiMan

natesht said:


> Can anyone please suggest a good ceiling mount for the Epson 8350?


 Chief RPA or Peerless Universal


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## Arman Gh.

Hello friends.
Just bought a second hand Epson 8350. The picture form the projector comes very dim with yellowish whites. At first I thought it because of lamp (it comes with an original one) and ordered a replacement. Also I noticed traces of dust on calibration pictures with pure colours. So before arriving of the new lamp, I decided to clean up using instructions available on youtube. The surprise was inside - there's a burned part just before the big lens inside. Could you help me identify - what's it, what to search on internet for it and is there any chance to find a replacement for this?

UPD. the damaged part is called PBS board/assy/lens. Found one at aliexpress, costs around 55$


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## livermoron

I changed my Epson 8350 lamp today as the original went out at 1400 hours, projector had no picture issues prior, but with the new lamp there is this weird brush stroke effect across the screen. I checked the lamp lens, nothing on it. I tried swapping the old on on the new housing, same issue. Anyone seen this before and know the fix, or is it done for? thx!


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## Tesla1856

Not sure what you are talking about "swapping the old on on the new housing, same issue " as it is a sealed unit. Is this a new genuine Epson Lamp/bulb?

I bought my 8350 new at BestBuy. Still using it (works great ... even in non-light-controller living room). Here are my notes (hope this helps).

08-01-2011 = 0 hours . New projector. Lamp #1 (Original)
02-13-2014 = 480 hours
02-08-2016 = 1108 hours
10-03-2016 = 1515 Hours - Brightness starts to fluctuate ... almost flickering. 
10-07-2016 = 0 hours - New Genuine $300 lamp from Epson.com installed (Lamp #2) . Also, new air filter.
05-08-2020 = 2183 hours (on Lamp #2)
08-29-2022 = Not sure of hours, but Lamp #2 is still working fine.

Genuine Lamp: 200w Ultra High Efficiency E-TORL (ELPLP49 / V13H010L49)

Producing 2000-Lumens/2000-Lumens (color/white light output)
Might be OSRAM or other top-tier bulb tech
Genuine Filter: V13H134A21


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