# HuskerOmaha's Basement Theater ++



## HuskerOmaha

Updated 4/15/11.


Will continue updating as room treatments (audio/visual) go up; among other future improvements.
























































Screen Wall Finished-5/17


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## W00lly

You could bring your wife by my theater and I will change her mind about the AT screen. Most wives can not envision what it mite look like until they actually see it done so it really helps to see one finished







With a AT screen you could hide your electrical panel behind the screen plus you really don't need a stage but they look cool so why not


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## yamahaSHO

After taking my wife to Scott's house, she started getting excited about the theater I was building. His is on one end of the extreme and it is VERY nice! I had no issues with doing an AT screen and a stage after the wife watched part of movie there. The stage just sets it off, but as Scott said, it's not a necessity.


Keep posting them pictures, I know you're further along than that!


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## HuskerOmaha

I know I could take her by your screen and theater, but then she will just want to move into a house double our price, and we can't have that until our student loans are paid off.


Anyways, we will have to...mojave is in Elkhorn too....


More pictures.....


So, I'm about 1/2 to 2/3 done with my theater, but what a great time to start posting pics and getting help!










The prior owners had painted the insulation board white around the external sides of the room and the cement floor gray.


Start of framing:



**There will be a kitchenette or bar area on the left and a bathroom on the right; fridge near the stairs; AV rack in either the sump closet or....**











**Looking towards the stairs and HVAC closet area/potential AV rack area**











**Future screen location....electric panel in the way but will figure it out...thinking of AT and a stage but Wife nixed the idea...room isn't dedicated! She makes 1/2 the money so....**











**Another view**











The room isn't too large overall, not including HVAC closet....15 x 32 (wider on the bathroom side)...luckily have 9 ft ceilings....


More to come....


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## HuskerOmaha

So after most of the framing is done....(notice the nice green summer grass outside)....decided the AV rack should go in the HVAC closet, so easy access (copying jamis theater and others ideas....)


*Rough outline of blue tape for projector hang ~16 ft, and screen layout*











*Rack frame-out and HVAC closet access*











*Rack frame with smurf and 2- 20A circuit runs*

(Should have done larger smurf.....)


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## yamahaSHO

You're welcome to stop by. The projector will be down for a week or so, so you may want to wait.


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## HuskerOmaha

At this point, the following was my HT equipment....


158"? Da Lite Screen (pulldown)

Optoma HD72 projector

5.1 HTIB Panasonic



After deciding on getting rid of the HTIB and Da Lite Screen, I thought I could at least use the 720p Optoma since the picture quality was quite awesome to this point.....can always upgrade, right?


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## HuskerOmaha

I bought the 1/2"? instead of 3/4" smurf tubing..and subsequently bought a fishtape to run almost all of my wire due to the small diameter. Lesson learned.


**Electrical ran. Can lights hung. Smurf tubing ran. Lots of work in...a few weekends to wire and run tubing**












**AV Rack, Closet, Surround, Stairway up (basement theater), plywood for AV closet (no conduit ran for electrical, for code reasons needed plywood if I remember)**











**The PITA electrical panel. My electrician buddy finally gave in to running the small panel instead of REPLACING my entire 125A panel with a 200A. In the long run he would be right, but we are talking getting inspected, extra $$, etc for a new panel. I wanted the small panel on the wall to the right for my screen's sake, he wouldnt budge because it would "look stupid". I call it a draw.**











**Rear of room. Will have a kitchenette, and bathroom. Bathroom electrical ran and rough-ins capped. Looking at cabinets, showers; didn't know how much a PITA the shower would end up being......(no walkout in basement)**


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## SierraMikeBravo

Man! Lot's of Nebraskans on here as of late which s great to see, but where the heck are all the Kansans??? C'mon Kansas...it's time to represent!










On another note, AT screens and not just esthetically pleasing, but also very beneficial for biological reasons as well.


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## HuskerOmaha

I took these pictures and they are saved in pretty HQ. Do I need to make them smaller when posting? Seems like people like to see larger and more detail.


How do I get my "theater thread" in my sig? I'll have to figure that out soon too.


Does everyone set a deadline for their theater (mine was the Big XII Championship....) and not make it?


Now I'm looking at the superbowl. Hopefully my speakers will be shipped by then!


Edit: Will get the majority of the rest of the pictures up tonight...and then the selfish questions!


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## huskerfan62

What I wouldn't give for 9 foot ceilings. I keep pushing my deadline back too, I'm shooting for the superbowl but the budget is running low this time of year so I'm thinking realistically I may make opening day of baseball season. I put my link in my sig but for the life of me can't remember how I did it. I think it was in your preferences section in the usercp.


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## Mike_WI

Great to see your build.


Couple of things:

- big windows -- I actually boarded up one of my basement windows during the build (much to my wife's dismay, but it is my man cave)

- agree with larger smurf tubing. See JapanDave's thread with great runs

- for inspection ask about covering up the electrical box with screen -- see my contemplation of that in my HT build thread

- If I did it over again I would go with an AT screen


I look forward to more pics!


Mike


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## HuskerOmaha

If possible, I'm going to try and move this thread to the proper place in the other sub-forum.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=29 


Down the road I might be able to do built-ins around the speakers and screen......with velvet and wood build...not sure if I have room now where the AV Rack hole is to come out from the wall for an AT screen...Think I'd want about 18 inches but only have 8" or so!


Thanks for the advice, Mike!



Edit: Sig link solved, thanks guys.


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## yamahaSHO

 Type your own text here 


Quote this post, copy the link code and change the part that says "Type your own text here".


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## HuskerOmaha

Ok, back to more important stuff.... Man that sig took too long!


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## HuskerOmaha

**Stage at where we had fun running more HVAC, stereo wire for the bar/bathroom ceiling speakers, and blockouts for all of the probable speaker locations**


**Split off some HVAC supplies to the main floor, good thing I'll be covering that up with drywall







**











**Using the soffit to hide HVAC runs and bathroom exhaust fan, also ceiling speaker wire**




















**Electrical run for projector, HDMI for projector ran through 2.5" gray conduit, blockouts for potential projector placement (should have put some behind the soffit on the ceiling....blockouts for heights/center in distance**












Some things I wish I had done differently: Maybe placed the screen on a different wall....maybe the interior wall opposite the egress window....negative was that the bar seating wouldn't happen/or you couldn't see the screen from anywhere in the room....but could have had 2 rows of seating and maybe a game table...


Wife wouldn't have had her storage area though, which is a must in our 1800 sq ft house with kids....


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## HuskerOmaha

I was going to go the cheap route and get the large uncut batts of insulation, but instead opted for the "vapor barrier" rolls of JM. They cost more, but I have pretty weak skin that hates itchy things, so comfort overruled money here.


**Lowes had a special prior to Halloween that gave you a $150 gift card for how much I needed.**


Screen Wall with blockouts for mounts. At first it may look funny, but after hearing heights +5.1 vs without, I was sold. My center is above the screen due to the fact my screen will be low to the ground ~ right above the center outlet.


So, across the top you have the Heights and Center, the L/R, and Sub 1 (orange left box) and Sub 2 (blue right box). I only ran 12 ga speaker wire behind the studs, should have ran both RCA and 12ga. Planning on the CHT CS 18.T package most likely....


Additional panel is 60A, 40? of which is going to the AV Rack.











I tried to do the ceiling as tight as possible, but I'm not planning on this being anywhere close to soundproof. R-19 in ceiling, R-13 in walls.











Blockouts for surrounds and projector visible. Insulated the bathroom walls as well to try and help with sound control.




















I had roughly 15 rolls of both left over, so I attempted/succeeded in putting them in the crawl space between the garage and kids bedrooms above it. To help with a) winter insulation issues and b) garage opener noise. After crawling all over, getting multiple bruises and cuts, it doesn't seem the insulation helped with either! Fail.


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## HuskerOmaha

Doesn't he realize someone has to upload to the blog and post pictures?


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## HuskerOmaha

Drywall went up right around Halloween as well. I found a guy that did the entire basement, ceiling, cleaned up the stairwell plaster, all materials-- for $1300. Ridiculous good job; especially on the windows that were looking pretty beat up. Highly recommend for any Omaha/Lincoln guys not wanting to do it yourself.


Looking back at future cabinet/bar/bathroom/fridge....











Larger view of room looking from screen side. I was going to put wall sconces on, but my electrical buddy convinced me we would have enough light with 15 6" recessed cans, so I listened. My wife also wasn't a big fan, since we couldn't put too much on the walls if we had sconces in the way.











I wish I would have known that the dust would get through ANYTHING. Our furnace quit lighting because a safety override switch noticed the filter was full of the junk (had changed it the DAY before they walled). I also covered everything in the storage room with 2 ply but it still got covered. I finally mopped everything up this week because the daily tracking of dust was affecting the home relations!


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## HuskerOmaha

Looking into the bathroom and adjacent refrigerator. I wanted a full fridge in the basement with water hookup, and the only spot was next to the stairs...instead of opening to a wider look as you walk down the stairs, we had to throw the wall up, but ended up using the space well.


3/4 bathroom (32x46 shower).


I also liked Jamis HT a lot, I believe he had the can light above the fridge.











The only cheap alternative for recessed stair lights (other than low voltage stuff) around here seemed to be the Juno ones as you see here. I have three going up the stairs, and they were easy enough to install between studs. I also debated getting some kind of graphic eye or alternative, but will probably just go with regular dimmers.











I don't know why, but I put the outlet for the projector towards the ceiling, and the HDMI run ending on the soffit. I think the projector will end up being in between, but I should have done that better. I'm otherwise happy with all of the locations for outlets and speakers. I can still do a crown molding on each side of the large soffit down the road and have outlets for rope lights on each side.


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## HuskerOmaha

But during this project (since August) that hasn't happened.


I think my 16 month old can lift more than me.....


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## HuskerOmaha

It takes forever to try and tile/carpet/paint shop with a 16 month old and both parents working FT....


The rest of our house is painted very neutral, with browns/tans/reds/blues/yellows....We wanted something different....cool yet not too light.


I of course was dead set on painted the screen wall black and the ceiling black. Wife said no way Jose, this isn't JUST your theater....she wins this time, but I got her to compromise on paint a bit and promise in our next pad I get a dedicated theater. Thinking 2015-2020.


Anyways, the only thing here that may change is the tile for the floor. The shower is the darker with the decorative strip, the lighter will probably get replaced with a 3-tile design with 1 or 2 colors...


Bathroom: SW 6332 Coral Island

Stairwell: SW 6232 Misty

Main Room: SW 6221 Moody Blue LRV 27

Screen Wall/AV Rack/Front Ceiling: SW 6236 Grays Harbor LRV 11


I used all Sherwin Williams paints.....

Carpet is Shaw. (The green/blue one under the tile).

Tile from Lowes and Ceramic Tileworks in Omaha.











Thoughts? Haven't bought anything yet other than paint.


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## HuskerOmaha

Since this is our "starter" home and for when that extra shower is needed, we decided to not just do the 1/2 bath, even though that would have saved space. Everything was already roughed in as well.


The basement is not a walkout, so going into this the shower was probably going to be a pain to figure out. I don't like the 3-piece or 2-piece ones with the potential leakage and harder to clean areas. I also didn't want to tile the entire shower including a floor pan so we came across this base....


Made by Kohler and bought from HD. They were terrible at customer service, shipped it 2 weeks late so I had to install after drywall. This resulted in tearing out some lower drywall and some ugly patchwork that was redone twice. Oh well!











Size: 32x46. Was going to go with the 5ft wide, but it just seemed too big. Liked the base with the seat for when my aging parents visit and stay in the basement....turned out to look pretty cool.


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## HuskerOmaha

I always used to hate painting....I don't usually have the required patience.


This was different though.....seemed like the room had a purpose...other than all of those other rooms in a house!


This was the SW Grays Harbor for the screen wall.

Still wish it was black. Win some you lose some, and this isn't a dedicated theater room....











A better shot of the color. The light is washing it out pretty bad, as it seems to be a deeper gray...more like what you see in the AV Rack. The reverse side of the soffit behind is this color, and I'm debating whether to paint the ceiling between the screen wall and soffit this as well....before carpet.


Thoughts?


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## HuskerOmaha

At this point I'm still waiting for my cabinets to be made. After comparing 2 custom guys and Lowes/HD, the custom guys cabinets were 10% cheaper and had better mechanisms, but were unfinished. They would be done 3 weeks earlier than Lowes and fit perfect. Custom it is.


While I was waiting...I painted the main room (SW Moody Blue) and started to build my bartop seating.











I shamelessly used another AVSforum build idea and think it should work perfectly. Now just playing with where to anchor it to the floor....with where I lazily put my surrounds (~13 ft from screen) I guess it will sit right behind those. Now just fighting with whether to center or put it against the wall.


I also started looking at the Berkline powerbuy and if I could practically fit 4 instead of 3 in front of the bartop and still have room for the aisle.


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## HuskerOmaha

While STILL waiting for my cabinets...I measured and found out the AV Rack hole we had built would probably only fit a MA type rack or a DIY setup.


I was feeling lazy that week and had worked a little extra...so I splurged on a Middle Atlantic Slim 5-29.


I didn't really buy any accessories for it yet (fans, power strips, etc).

I'll figure that out later....welcome any advice on that. I don't know how I'm going to enclose the back of the rack yet either....MA panels or a DIY route...maybe DIY since CHT products are going to take my non-existent Christmas bonus.


Daddy's helper. Kept climbing in it as I tried not to drop the steel pieces on him.











CRAP. I thought I measured this right...It looks too big.


I also thought for some dumb reason the trays mounted behind the rack rails and needed to be secured with nuts. Trying to screw in trays behind the rack rails by yourself turned out to be a pain. My dad was over one day and showed me they probably went in front and needed no nuts.


I was fairly embarrassed. I think I even asked people on here how to do it...sorry for wasting your time!













It fits. Well that was close.

And how is there still drywall dust floating around?


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## HuskerOmaha

Another thing while waiting on the cabinets was to install my bar and bathroom ceiling speakers. I like going to bars and being able to use the restroom and still catch on audio/tv what is going on in the big game.


Next year I will want to make sure I'm hearing Taylor Martinez run all over Wisconsin and Ohio State, so what better way than to get a couple of these in the ceiling.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


I didn't really research these at all....just needed something that sounded decent, and they had ok review from people and came recommended from a few on avsforum.


They seemed pretty beefy when I put them in the ceiling...hope they sound good!












It also explains the need for a 9 channel receiver....


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## HuskerOmaha

Everyone says that. So I'm probably not going to hang my projector until the carpet is in. Even though I have no idea how to hang it or where yet.


I did however find a screen. I originally wanted to go all out and get a SMX AT screen or similar high quality products out there....but when I looked at value for my house and price range decided to follow some other recommendations from AVSforum members and go with Carada.

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.as...N-SCREEN-H118C 


I went with the 16:9 format (118") since I watch more HD sports right now than movies...though I'm sure that may change soon since we don't make it out to many movies since having children.


Due to the wall size constraints, my soffit impairing my projector from being ceiling mounted, and the larger pro-audio speakers I plan on purchasing, I needed to downsize from my current Da-Lite 158" white matte pull-down screen and upgrade to an tensioned electric or fixed frame screen. Tensioned electric became a cost problem, so the fixed frame it is.


Now just to keep little hands from touching it. Maybe I should really think about a skinny low stage....still have time!











I had my brother drive down and we mounted the screen brackets and the frame to make sure we had it level and centered. We didn't put the screen up and returned the frame to the box to make sure we didn't decide to accidentally tear/dent/stain anything during the rest of the basement construction process.....


I also asked many forum members about how to slide the screen and almost bought sliding door mechanisms until kjsmitty let me in on how the screen slides by itself on the Carada mounts. I had to set them off the wall with 2x4s to miss my electric panel cover..but it works! Thanks to Mike_WI for his false wall ideas, I just couldn't make it work with the size of room and wife demands for a "play area" behind the bartop seating!


Edit: You may notice it is barely off the ground. Based on http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ulator-pro.cfm and my Optoma HD72 paired with the Carada, I need 21-24" of drop from lens to top of the viewable screen.


I still don't know if this is an absolute. If it is, well I'm screwed. If there is a few inches of give and the edges of your picture may suffer, I guess that is what I'll have to deal with. The soffit is in the way...and so instead of being 4 inches off the ceiling my projector will be more like 14.....more to come on this....


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## HuskerOmaha

After reading up on power conditioning/surge protection/power supplies I decided I wanted to go the used route since I wasn't sold on it but wanted to include it in the rack.


Mike C, AVS Mod, had some listed here in the classifieds and we made a deal. Step up for me, Christmas Cash for him.



Mike sold me the Monster HTS5100 and AVS2000. I haven't hooked anything up yet...but my son, Landon enjoyed unpacking them for me, and repacking, and unpacking.....


Nice work on the packaging Mike!


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## HuskerOmaha

After 3 weeks, my cabinets are finally here and ready to be hung. They are unfinished of course, so that should be fun.


Electric Panel Cover.

In hindsight I probably should have gotten a flat non-descript metal panel to go over this..but we were thinking of future selling as well as current use. I will most likely paint this to match the screen wall so it can "disappear" during films....part of it will unfortunately stick past the edge of the screen. Minor fail in planning.











A look toward the action in the rear of the room. Drawers, cabinets, shelves...











I was also working on my bartop at this time. Found a spot to anchor it and used some meaty cement screws and a hammerdrill. Mmmm the smell of concrete burning.













Had to get a shot of the wine rack. I'm pretty excited about this. Because I really like wine...and beer....any guess to where the wine rack may go?












I was kind of shocked at cabinets and the price tag. I guess there is quite some labor involved if it took someone 3 weeks working almost nightly to build, but man. It was 1/3 of my total cost to this point.....


I'm not sure what stain to go with...could use some advice here...


Going with white trim and doors......what color would you recommend? Was thinking something along the lines of Sherwin Williams Warm Chestnut 3114, Burnished Walnut 3119, Pecan 3124, or Armoire Hickory 3129. We want them to be dark enough to not look weird with white trim, but not too dark to really make the room like a black hole.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_i...ains/interior/ 



If you have a minute, throw me a suggestion! Want to do this in the next few days!


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## HuskerOmaha

Alright....that is a catchup to about where I'm at. I need to take a breather but will post more tomorrow.


Update from last post: I now have the cabinets hung and taped off for staining/poly fun. I'll try and post those tomorrow.

I also have some more equipment that I need to do the glorious unboxing shots...


Questions and your opinions please:


Do I paint the ceiling between the screen and first soffit the same as the screen wall?


Ideas for finishing out the bartop? I'll post my ideas tomorrow, but so far consist of stone veneer and a granite top with wainscoating on the inside (where your feet would be while sitting facing the screen).


Where do I vent my HVAC room? I might throw a couple (or 1) vents on the stairwell below the recessed lighting as this is directly in front of the HVAC/H20 heater, and maybe one above the door to the HVAC closet and one below the AV rack? Is that overkill?


When should I try and figure out the projector mounting?


How should I mount the surrounds...french cleat?


Any ideas for a good ceiling fan/paddle fan that only has a ~20 inch span? That matches the paint scheme/And no light kit please.


Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?


Check back soon-Thanks for reading!


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## W00lly

Wow your almost done. Nice work


My suggestion is to go to Menard's buy a piece of oak and grab stain samples. They have a large selection of little stain packets you can get. Cut your oak up in to equal pieces and stain away. for clear coat I use the minwax wipe on poly as it drys fast and is idiot proof







this way you can try some stain colors and not worry that you will not like your first choice because once stain hits those cabinets theres no turning back.


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## LoudandClear

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?
I've had non-power Coaster chairs and sold them and got Power Berklines 090 model. I didn't like the fact that the manual seats stopped only at certain spots which weren't the most comfortable positions for me. They also would sometimes collapse/move when I moved around in the chairs. I say Power all the way.


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## LoudandClear

Husker,


I have a few suggestions:


To determine best projector placement and throw capabilities you can take an 8ft ladder. make a small plywood shelf and just hang it from different heights off the ladder to find the best location for the screen/projector. Power up proj but you don't even need to hook up a signal because your projector will still throw a intro screen onto the wall. At least my Toshiba MT800 did. You can even bring up menus on the proj to see how well it focuses on the bare wall. Then mark the wall with push pins at the corners. Tis will help in determining where to mount proj & screen to work well together.


As far as covering the power panel you can cover the whole wall in GOM type cloth and since it's not in large width rolls you will lay it out where one section covers the panel. Then make that section removable. It provides thress useful purposes. 1. Access to the electrical panel when needed. 2. I did mine is black so it provides a non-distracting backdrop to the picture. 3. You can treat the wall behind the GOM with JM Insul-shield to provide acoustic dampening. The result is you need less treatments in the room. A treated screen wall gives the acoustic equivalent of having your speakers father out into the room and we know that sounds better.


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## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19650044
> 
> 
> Alright....that is a catchup to about where I'm at. I need to take a breather but will post more tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Update from last post: I now have the cabinets hung and taped off for staining/poly fun. I'll try and post those tomorrow.
> 
> I also have some more equipment that I need to do the glorious unboxing shots...
> 
> 
> Questions and your opinions please:
> 
> 
> Do I paint the ceiling between the screen and first soffit the same as the screen wall?
> 
> 
> Ideas for finishing out the bartop? I'll post my ideas tomorrow, but so far consist of stone veneer and a granite top with wainscoating on the inside (where your feet would be while sitting facing the screen).
> 
> 
> Where do I vent my HVAC room? I might throw a couple (or 1) vents on the stairwell below the recessed lighting as this is directly in front of the HVAC/H20 heater, and maybe one above the door to the HVAC closet and one below the AV rack? Is that overkill?
> 
> 
> When should I try and figure out the projector mounting?
> 
> 
> How should I mount the surrounds...french cleat?
> 
> 
> Any ideas for a good ceiling fan/paddle fan that only has a ~20 inch span? That matches the paint scheme/And no light kit please.
> 
> 
> Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?
> 
> 
> Check back soon-Thanks for reading!



Just make sure the ceiling is dark.

Mine was painted white and the painters had to come back to repaint it later.


Mike


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## HuskerOmaha

So, I have my ceiling and walls done, but now discussing over on another thread...I was thinking of doing a small marquee similar to BIG's...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post19655833 


Do you think this would look good?


Would my three can lights on the ceiling nearest the wall still look ok if I made the marquee out of 1xs instead of 2x4s?


I might throw up some drawings soon.....


I could then treat the whole wall in GOM either black or.....black?


LoudandClear....I like the idea.......


Edit: Definitely think I'm doing a stage and marquee unless the better half says no


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## yamahaSHO

I bet it would look fine if you put the trim on the piece you make.


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## HuskerOmaha

Anyone have strong feelings/tried this stuff?


Was browsing yamahaSHOs thread....

http://www.fpi-protostar.com/hitack.htm 


vs GOM panels for around the screen?


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## HuskerOmaha

 http://www.diy-home-theater-design.c...ter-stage.html


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## LoudandClear

As far as the cloth goes the stick on stuff might not be acoustically transparent. It needs to be to benefit from the sound absorbtion material you put behind it just like acoustic treatment panels. The cloth will be suspended over wood framing strips or a wood frame in your case. I used 1x2s and put Dazian Expo cloth http://www.dazian.com/ over it and JM Insul Shield behind the cloth. Yours will be done a little different since you will have a removable panel. I had 3 large windows on one side of my theater so I made removable window plugs that were finished exaclly like the surrounding wall so you didn't know there were windows there unless they were removed.


The stage building info is good. I framed mine with ~6 inch center framework and filled it with rolled up carpet padding foam (think of little rolled up sleeping bags). It was left over from the old carpet. I had to stand on the 3/4" plywood top to compress it enough to put in the deck screws. Made it very inert. Use deck screws since they will pull and hold tighter longer than nails will. Use common carpentry framing technique and then double it


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## HuskerOmaha

Of the stage/marquee idea for now. Just wants the room "done".


So, that will be a project for later....the extra couple yards of carpet wasted down the road won't be a big deal....


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## yamahaSHO

Haha, I know the feeling. You can certainly do it afterwards. Just keep in the back of your mind when planning other parts that might change things.


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## HuskerOmaha

Above fridge cabinet and peeking around the corner into the bathroom is

one as well.












Cabinets are 22" deep on bottom, 12" standard on top.

Includes roll out trash on left, liquor shelf +stem holder on left, and clear glass center on upper above future sink.












Probably my favorite, is the wine cabinet. Took advantage of the closet space and set it so the front is flush with the other cabinets height wise etc.

Should hold ~23 bottles with maybe a few extra smaller slots for ports, etc.











No I didn't make these, they were custom built. I don't have the time or skill for that!


Finishing on the other hand.......


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## HuskerOmaha

Planning on having 4 bar stool/chairs behind this countertop seating....followed the idea from Jamis and other threads...I think I even found a jpeg/gif of a setup and put it together.


Used 2x4s throughout and covered with 5/8 plywood. If a tornado ever hits Omaha, this isn't going anywhere....cement screws (8?) throughout the base 2x8.











Planning on finishing the top with granite (GraniteWorks? other suggestions from Omahans?) and the sides with stone veneer and maybe wainscoating on the inside.



Examples:











Something similar to this product in a gray to match the room....












Anyone done this? Results?


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## HuskerOmaha

I'm going to paint this to match the wall and see what it looks like then.


So far, without the screen, it looks like a huge problem.



If it doesn't disappear being painted and with the screen covering the majority of it, I may remove it and figure something else out.


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## HuskerOmaha

A pile of never ending arriving boxes....


HTPC Case

Blu Ray Drive

Dual 2 TB Hard Drives

HTPC Components

Emotiva UPA-7

Monster HTS5100 and AVS2000











And of course wine that needs a home.


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## HuskerOmaha

Staining isn't too bad; hiring the poly coats out.......


Should have a few new posts starting next week...but here is where we are at....



Stain is "Dark Oak" by Sherwin Williams. It was either going to be that or Brazilnut...trying to find something that didn't bring too much Red out but that still looked "warm"......




















We think this color should look great with the white trim/doors.




Thanks for the comments!


----------



## huskerfan62

love the color of that stain. may have to steal that idea from you.


----------



## W00lly

Why hire out the clear coat just use minwax wipe on satin poly its super easy to use


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19661915
> 
> 
> A pile of never ending arriving boxes....
> 
> 
> HTPC Case
> 
> Blu Ray Drive
> 
> Dual 2 TB Hard Drives
> 
> HTPC Components
> 
> Emotiva UPA-7
> 
> Monster HTS5100 and AVS2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course wine that needs a home.



Wives love stacks of gear boxes!

















Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Yep, she isn't too appreciative. I will have a big problem once the pallet from roman with berklines/popcorn maker and the pallet from CHT with the audio stuff arrives in the middle of a typical Nebraska snowstorm.










Edit: W00ley-hired the poly out because I got a solid quote for a few hundred and I don't have much time and want to get after the tile!


----------



## LoudandClear

Looking really good so far.


2 things that are important to plan early.


Infrared sensor mounted up front near the screen with signals sent back to equipment. With the screen in front and equipment in back you don't want to have to point the remote behind you to change something. Some equipment may be RF but some will always be Infrared as well. Better to be safe and put it in during construction IMO.


Have you thought about lighting controllers and light zones yet?

I have 4 different light zones controlled by a Lutron Spacer system. It has 4 presets that I programmed with different levels of lighting from each zone. These are also tied to the IR sensor mounted in the front face of my stage riser. Wiring goes under the stage to the IR amplifier at my equipment rack which is not even visable from the theater seating area.


It's important to do this now because you will want to be able to point your remote at the screen to control equipment & lights. We are creatures of habit after pointing our remote at TV screen for many years.


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19668766
> 
> 
> Looking really good so far.
> 
> 
> 2 things that are important to plan early.
> 
> 
> Infrared sensor mounted up front near the screen with signals sent back to equipment. With the screen in front and equipment in back you don't want to have to point the remote behind you to change something. Some equipment may be RF but some will always be Infrared as well. Better to be safe and put it in during construction IMO.
> 
> 
> Have you thought about lighting controllers and light zones yet?
> 
> I have 4 different light zones controlled by a Lutron Spacer system. It has 4 presets that I programmed with different levels of lighting from each zone. These are also tied to the IR sensor mounted in the front face of my stage riser. Wiring goes under the stage to the IR amplifier at my equipment rack which is not even visable from the theater seating area.
> 
> 
> It's important to do this now because you will want to be able to point your remote at the screen to control equipment & lights. We are creatures of habit after pointing our remote at TV screen for many years.



Good points.

I still haven't gotten around to integrating all of my remotes and lighting.

If I had to redo I would have thought even more about control/lighting and HVAC then the actual electronics and speakers. It helps make the room.

Also, if you are doing risers put in smurf tube and electric outlets for any future plans -- eg buttkickers, or outlets for laptops, lights, etc.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guys,


Thanks for the info. I've been thinking about this off and on but seemingly have been more concerned with the rear of the room.


For lights: I have a 3 switch box for the: 1 switch for the 10 can lights in the seating area, 1 for the fan, and 1 for the stairwell lights (1 switch each). I have a switch near cabinets for the 3 cans above the fridge/cabinets. I figured I could dim the fridge/wetbar lights but keep them on during movies but keep the other 10 off. I probably actually made this simple and should have had more than those 3? zones but the wife wanted simple...?


For the fan: Anyone know a good website for 24-32" diameter fans? I need one that fits between the two can lights behind the bar seating but won't affect the light angling from the cans. I believe I have ~40 inches between cans (measured inside each trim).


Thinking about this: http://www.casablancafanco.com/Produ...%C2%AE-41U46D/ 




For the remote/IR sensor: I have the smurf tubing running from each speaker, I was thinking I could run the IR sensor wire utilizing the center channel smurf tube and place the IR sensor above the center of the screen.


Another option would be fish taping one behind the 2x4 studs through the center outlet in the screen wall (having sensor below screen).



What do you guys think?










And can you send me or post some links to recommended zone lighting that would hook up with a remote (harmony, urc, etc) and any IR sensors you've found to be a good option? So these just run to the AV rack and then you place another run to each component?


----------



## LoudandClear

Since you haven't built your front stage riser you can install an IR sensor in it. That's what I did. You then hardwire the sensor to a ditribution block/amplieier and then you can plug a zillion little stick on IR transmitters on the face of each piece of gear in your rack. I'll dig up an example of what I used after we get back from XMAS shopping.... yuk!


Think about creating some light zones with dimmable rope lights. I have one zone that controls rope lights under my front stage riser overhang. Then another zone that controls same type lights at my 2nd row seat riser. Provides a good border marker so people don't trip on the riser. My 3rd zone is for my 8 sconces on the sides and last light zone for 4 recessed can lights.


One thing to be careful of is position of can lights in regards to where your projector beam will be shining. You DO NOT want your projector to be shining through light coming off the can lights or your picture quality will be greatly reduced. Best is to put can lights to the sides and projector down the middle.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'm not too sure the stage/riser will be happening any time soon, but I do like the idea of hiding rope light under the edge of each....good idea.


Went and picked out tile today, after trying to get the required SANTA pictures with our 16 month old....line was too long, mom going back later this week.


Tile should start next week in the bathroom and bar area......


Unboxed some stuff to check it out...











Hope we picked some good stuff for the HTPC. You can probably see everything other than the 2-2TB HDs.


My HTPC is being built by http://www.triggscompconsulting.com/ . They are located in Lincoln, but can do many different services for anyone in the area.











Purchased these through the AVSforum classifieds.....Thanks Mike C they look great!











This thing is heavy. And Emotiva ships their stuff right; in the formed packaging....would be hard to shake/break any of this stuff.


----------



## nezff

miniwax dark walnut goes very well with oak. I did my kitchen cabinets that way.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Our dark oak selection actually looks very similar to the dark walnut.


Should have finished photos up in a couple days.


Next up is tile.


Anyone think I need a subfloor/backerboard?


Probably just going to tile straight onto the smooth concrete, looks level.


----------



## LoudandClear

I guess it depends on how large your tiles are going to be. 18 inch tiles need a flatter surface than 12 inchers or less. I'd check with a 6ft or larger straight edge to be sure. I know many home builders down here install the tiles right over the slab but I'm not sure it they treat the slab with anything to make the adhesive bond better. Maybe some muriatic acid to roughen it up a bit. Check what HD or Lowe's suggest?


Husker, Why don't you ask an admin to move this thread to the dedicated home theater build forum? You will get more feedback over there.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'll have tons of acoustic/speaker/receiver etc questions soon after the tiling is done....so which forum would be better? Since I have the kitchenette/bar/bathroom in the rear of the room? Probably general area?


The floor is already painted so maybe that will help a bit with binding, but I'll go ask around.


Looking at 18/12 inch tile...2 tile design...maybe 3.


Will look into moving thread.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just signed up for Roman's last powerbuy here on avsforum.....


Will be receiving 4 Berkline 13175's in the black bonded leather...in the chair/loveseat/chair configuration. Should still have ~28inches of aisle on the left side past the bar seating.

It will be an interesting configuration; the right most (facing the screen, against the wall) seat will be angled in, but the rest will be straight config. Should look and function well....


DarkKnight theater build thread on here has an example of what the chair/loveseat/chair config looks like.


http://www.rtheaters.com/powerbuy/berkline.html 


Also bought the Metropolitan Popcorn 6oz popper. Missed out on a few cheaper ones around Omaha at Cabela's and other type of poppers, but this is my wife's "basement christmas present".









http://www.rtheaters.com/popcornmachines/ 


I probably need to go buy some diamonds now.....


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19681473
> 
> 
> I'll have tons of acoustic/speaker/receiver etc questions soon after the tiling is done....so which forum would be better? Since I have the kitchenette/bar/bathroom in the rear of the room? Probably general area?
> 
> 
> The floor is already painted so maybe that will help a bit with binding, but I'll go ask around.
> 
> 
> Looking at 18/12 inch tile...2 tile design...maybe 3.
> 
> 
> Will look into moving thread.



I would keep your HT build thread here.

Ask specific questions in appropriate forums and you can add links to those questions in "your" thread here. You "own" this thread. You are asking questions mainly in other threads or subforums that others have started.

At least this way everything is consolidated for people that are tracking your build -- including yourself.










Mike


----------



## Steve_Vai_rules

dont check out this sub forum very often but glad i did, great looking build, love the cabinets!



Matt


----------



## tesseract67

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SierraMikeBravo* 
Man! Lot's of Nebraskans on here as of late which s great to see, but where the heck are all the Kansans??? C'mon Kansas...it's time to represent!








How about a Kansas transplant in Nebraska?







I just received a Christmas card from relatives in Topeka today.


Lots of progress being made, HuskerOmaha. Keep at it the infrastructure, then we'll get the system dialed in.


P.S. I hear that if you install the projector and screen before the room is done, _you never get the room done_!


----------



## tesseract67









*Just don't hang the projector or you will never get done*!
Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
Everyone says that. So I'm probably not going to hang my projector until the carpet is in. Even though I have no idea how to hang it or where yet.
Ah, I see you are already aware of this maxim.


----------



## pcweber111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19681747
> 
> 
> I probably need to go buy some diamonds now.....



Yeah pretty much.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thinking of ways to mount the projector....


What about the box idea like "KC Cinema"?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1233232 


With a few looks at it, I think the projector will be mounted at the back end of this soffit...or a ceiling bracket from the ceiling will drop a mount about the area right behind the soffit.....We are about ~15 feet here.

I'm still annoyed my power run was too short to bring down to where the hdmi cable run ended. Oh well!











I don't think people behind there at the bar would have much viewing hindered, if at all.



Edit: Since there was a difference of opinion on the correct placement of this thread.....and I'm not sure what the answer is...I threw it back up to the mods to see what they think and asked them to move or leave accordingly!


Thanks for your advice!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Mike L, the mod for this forum, said the thread "should be fine where it is". I didn't really get any feedback if it was the right place, but I guess it is staying here!



Tesseract: Yep, I've read/heard/been told not to hang the projector until I am satisfied with all structural/painting/carpet everything being done, otherwise I'm sure if I threw some chairs down there I wouldn't be getting the finished touches done!


The other limiting thing, even if I got my projector hung, I don't have any speakers (or AVR) yet.


Anyone have suggestions? I guess I was focused on Onkyo due to their excellent power in their lineup, but now since I have an Emotiva UPA-7, I probably just need to worry about 2-hdmi (that can run simultaneously) and 9.2 speaker ability (with heights).


I've been told to look at Marantz as well, checking into that now.



Cabinets should be finished tomorrow/pictures will be up.


----------



## yamahaSHO

Do you have a projector mount yet? I have a new Chief RPAU that I didn't end up using.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sho,


Those are the universal ones right? So I would just need a pole or whatever hung to the right height?


It would have been easier to get a mount like that and set up the ceiling mount portion inside the drywall.


I'll PM you.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Still working on the uppers of the bar area, but the bathroom towel cabinet and the refrigerator cabinets are done!











I'm really happy with how the wood comes out through the stain. They look great!











Now to go buy the tile......


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Everything's looking great Greg - and I found your thread.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guys....


Was thinking....


I may put an HDMI plate in the ceiling either where the HDMI currently comes out or maybe cut one next to the projector electrical box and do one there.


Did anyone else utilize a plate +/- screws to secure the additional cable to projector?


Does anyone think this degrades quality? Read both sides of that one.


Opinions?


Thanks for finding the thread Brad!


EDIT: There is a poll on the CHT website regarding my speaker choices!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19694049
> 
> 
> Does anyone think this degrades quality?



Its digital not analog, so I can't see how it could degrade the quality - either it works or it doesn't. Well, my two cents anyway. I put a plate in the ceiling - no projector yet to tell me whether it actually works however.










Saw a friend's theater locally, he actually ran his power cable up through the pole of the ceiling mount, and it was connected to a UPS and then outlet, both of which were in the attic (likely a code violation, but seemed pretty cool).


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19694789
> 
> 
> Its digital not analog, so I can't see how it could degrade the quality - either it works or it doesn't. Well, my two cents anyway. I put a plate in the ceiling - no projector yet to tell me whether it actually works however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw a friend's theater locally, he actually ran his power cable up through the pole of the ceiling mount, and it was connected to a UPS and then outlet, both of which were in the attic (likely a code violation, but seemed pretty cool).



You know.....


I was actually thinking about doing that...running a UPS/Surge inside the soffit and then cabling to the projector...but my electrician buddy helping me wire said "if you do that then I'm not helping anymore". I took that as a no-no.







People do that so in case of a power shortage their bulb doesn't burn out, etc...right?


Maybe I'll have to go back and do that and not tell him...and just patch the drywall for the hole.










Maybe I won't need a bigger hole....need to put the cable/hdmi box there as well anyways...


Good ideas...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Well there is a way to do the UPS thing that's code compliant - use a PowerBridge - they're kind of pricey, but you can build the same thing yourself using a recessed male AC outlet.

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/ 
http://hd.engadget.com/2007/09/21/ho...ll-mounted-tv/


----------



## yamahaSHO

/\\ That's what I did. We have too many power outages here, so I almost had to do one for the projector.


----------



## LoudandClear

I run my projector power from the back of my room (projector location) to the wall inside my equipment closet. On the wall in the closet I mounted a recessed male plug which I had to buy at electrical supply store(see pic). Then I made a homemade power cord that goes from my APC H15 to the wall plug. I'm not running a UPS but I thought I'd benefit from the cleaner power from the APC. A UPS could just as easily be in my system with the same setup. This is to code per the electrical supply salesman







On the wall near the projector is just a normal AC outlet. Using the HDMI plate should be fine IMO.


Just have to be sure to keep the APC always on. When I first setup my rig I was just powering off the APC to bring everything down and after a few weeks I found out that I'm killing the bulb life of my projector. Well I only got 1000hrs out of my first bulb.... Lesson learned. Now I use the Harmony 1 to power everything up and down easily.


----------



## Mike_WI

I did something similar with my UPS in rack going to wall, electrically wired to projector plug in electrical outlet.


I think there are pics in my thread, but let me know if you need more details.


Mike


----------



## Shift

WoW! I cannot wait to see how everything looks when it is completed!! Very sweet indeed!!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Roman just got my check in the mail. Said the 4 Berklines and the Popcorn Popper will ship soon.


Pictures after the weekend of the cabinets...I'll start tiling next week.


Moving right along..........


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19703465
> 
> 
> Roman just got my check in the mail. Said the 4 Berklines and the Popcorn Popper will ship soon.
> 
> 
> Pictures after the weekend of the cabinets...I'll start tiling next week.
> 
> 
> Moving right along..........



I remember when I told my wife that I sent a check to a guy named Roman in NJ for some HT seats that were backordered.
























Everything worked out okay.










Enjoy.


Mike


PS - Aren't you supposed to be prepping drinks for a party?


----------



## Pro_pringlez

very nice indeed.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Cabinets are done other than a few adjustments needed and trash pullout reinstalled.


Painted primer in bathroom and stairwell....should have some painted by tonight.....then I'll have to watch Iowa beat Mizzou!




















The pictures make the cabinets look a little redder than they are....but you guys get the general stain. I like 'em.



Going to pay for tile and make final picks on that.........


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just bought the tile/grout....










WOW. The granite (considering Group A/B only) won't be much more.


Anyways....maybe I'll buy a tile store when I'm older so I can make some crazy margins!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I feel the following are subs for the choosing:


Hsu VTF-15, The Epik Empire, The eD A7S-450 and the CS-18.1. The other would be the UFW-15 BigBlock from Kevin (Sandbagger).



Anyone have thoughts/comparisons of each?


Anyone think you could mix/match?


----------



## yamahaSHO

I considered the VTF-15H and the Empires, but went with two PC12-NSD's and I'm very happy. Scott has one Plus version if the SVS cylinder and it rocks.


All the ones you listed would be good subs.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

That would be 4-15" subs, @ $1500 per website?


That might be pretty solid.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I spent the day buying tile, prepping the area, and painting my bathroom.


Ready to tile the shower......start on floor this week as well....











Going with 12x12s for the shower. Was going to do 6x6 but the tile guy convinced me 12s were easier and what would sell better down the road.

We will see.











Decorative eye and knee level trim.


Also doing an inset soap/shampoo holder.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I think I want those now.

http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/Genera...x?PId=71&MId=1 


Now I don't know how to mount them. Have to build stands and strap them in?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

There, I'm done obsessing about speakers I won't be getting.


Back to normal, civil sized setups....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

 http://www.axiomaudio.com/qs8.html# 


Anyone have these? Anyone listened to them?


I've been recommended to check these out by a few people now since my surrounds locations are probably too close to listeners for direct firing speakers....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

What are the pros/cons of putting two different subs in a setup?


Say an Epik Empire in one corner, a CS-18.1 in another?


----------



## pcweber111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19737469
> 
> 
> What are the pros/cons of putting two different subs in a setup?
> 
> 
> Say an Epik Empire in one corner, a CS-18.1 in another?



I've recommended two different subs before based on their abilities. I've done systems where their was a 10 for mid bass and a 15 to handle low end. Cross them over correctly and you shouldn't notice any frequency dip. Some people don't believe in this but I've seen it in action and it works.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19734912
> 
> http://www.axiomaudio.com/qs8.html#
> 
> 
> Anyone have these? Anyone listened to them?
> 
> 
> I've been recommended to check these out by a few people now since my surrounds locations are probably too close to listeners for direct firing speakers....



There are quite a few builds I remember using them with good results - try a search for qs8 in the dedicated builds forum.


Re: mixing different subs - I've heard it can cause problems that can be difficult to correct with EQ, but I don't have any significant experience with it tbh. Tried my THT LP with my old Velodyne sub in the other corner, seemed OK, but I didn't do any measurements.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19739553
> 
> 
> There are quite a few builds I remember using them with good results - try a search for qs8 in the dedicated builds forum.
> 
> 
> Re: mixing different subs - I've heard it can cause problems that can be difficult to correct with EQ, but I don't have any significant experience with it tbh. Tried my THT LP with my old Velodyne sub in the other corner, seemed OK, but I didn't do any measurements.




I think I'm fairly settled on doing 2-18"s, and think I want sealed for a lower end.....just for the sub of choice now...........


I'm also pretty sold on the qs8 for my surrounds. The reviews and location possibilities are nice for now and down the road.


Starting tile monday......as well as looking into projector mounting options again......


----------



## HuskerOmaha

1) Should I have pre-wired for rear surrounds? I've never been sold on them, and could always wire through the soffit down the road...but....woops?


2) What would you use as heights?


A member on the Axiom board uses QS8 (dipole) on his SIDE walls for heights. Audyssey recommends installing them on the SCREEN walls. He still thinks QS8 or a similar speaker would work since they are diffuse sounds like rain, jets, etc.


Anyone? I was leaning toward a smaller direct radiator....but maybe something like the Emotiva ERD-1 would be ok. Still think using the QS8 on the SCREEN wall would be weird.


----------



## grunt11




> Quote:
> A member on the Axiom board uses QS8 (dipole) on his SIDE walls for heights. Audyssey recommends installing them on the SCREEN walls. He still thinks QS8 or a similar speaker would work since they are diffuse sounds like rain, jets, etc.


 http://www.audyssey.com/technology/dsx.html 


Just to clarify I have my height speakers on the side walls to meet the recommended DSX angles of 45 degrees off center and 45 degrees up neither of which was possible in my narrow room with front wall placement. Additionally listening test prior to mounting them clearly indicated the 45 degree off center placement sounds much better in my room than front wall placement which would have to have been directly above the mains at 30 degrees off center. Also note that I have a vaulted ceiling which IMO helps spread out the ambience by placing the height speakers farther out into the room thus nearer the peak.



> Quote:
> Anyone? I was leaning toward a smaller direct radiator....but maybe something like the Emotiva ERD-1 would be ok. Still think using the QS8 on the SCREEN wall would be weird.



Based on my listening tests it’s not as important to “brand” timbre match the heights to the mains as it is to match the wides to the mains which share nearly identical audio information as their corresponding mains. So I think you could probably use the ERD-1s to good effect as height speakers with Axioms. However, it begs the question why not go with all Emo speakers?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

grunt-


Thanks for the info...I didn't know you had a vaulted ceiling.

That makes a bit more sense..more reflections and such.


I might go all Emo if I can get a good deal....as in $250/pr for 4.....but for Surrounds right now I'm leaning towards the QS8........


Decisions...decisions..


I'm still torn between horn and ribbon design...leaning towards the waveguide for my L/C/R....and maybe for heights if I can find a smaller version of my L/C/R....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

So...which way should I put in this soap/shampoo insert?


Soap on top?

Shampoo insert on top?


And on the side or rear wall? (Leaning toward the longer side wall)...












Ideas?


Going to start this soon....


Bar Seating first...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Looking from screen.....












Looking at screen.....


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19757567
> 
> 
> So...which way should I put in this soap/shampoo insert?
> 
> 
> Soap on top?
> 
> Shampoo insert on top?



Shampoo on top, no question. Why you ask? No idea. But for sure.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19757567
> 
> 
> And on the side or rear wall? (Leaning toward the longer side wall)...Ideas?



Where is the show head / faucet going to be? And are you right or left handed? Maybe also look at the placement in your current shower, where it is relative to the fixture, and go with that.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19757945
> 
> 
> Shampoo on top, no question. Why you ask? No idea. But for sure.
> 
> *Alright, I'll go with that. But you access the soap more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the show head / faucet going to be? And are you right or left handed? Maybe also look at the placement in your current shower, where it is relative to the fixture, and go with that.



Shower head on your left hand side looking. Since you can't put the insert there, I'm thinking side so no one has to turn around. Side middle it is!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

So Lowes has failed me again, though I doubt Home Depot would have had anything else.


The wainscoating was all either pre-finished (could have only painted) or was only 32" tall and in small sections. I didn't want any seams showing and the quality looked "interesting".


So, went with 4x4 sheets of 1/4" oak. Looks like oak on the front and birch? on the back. Bought some 1" trim for vertical stiles? and also bought some base (4 1/4"?). Will try and finish nailing before work tomorrow!




















Looks like the better boards got used for the inside of the seating area instead of the front...but I doubt it will matter after staining down the road...will be staining the same as the cabinets.


----------



## HuskerOmaha












Bar seating is done being wrapped in the 1/4" oak panels.

Going to try and stain in the next couple days so the tile can get put down up to it.











A wider shot....












Hopefully the lighter tile shows off the cabinets well and allows me to put some dark countertops on......


We will see!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Time to start cutting..so time to stop for today!


----------



## Mike_WI

You are a working machine.

I forget what is like to work on a project like this.

I remember painting my "false wall" in my HT after the kids went to bed every night.

Crazy stuff.

Keep up the pics and posts.



Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19764903
> 
> 
> You are a working machine.
> 
> *Wife got me motivated after slacking last week. "You know you only have 90 days to get this done, enjoy it, before baby #2"*
> 
> I forget what is like to work on a project like this.
> *It is rewarding when stuff actually falls in place. I'm recruiting to get help with certain parts....*
> 
> I remember painting my "false wall" in my HT after the kids went to bed every night.
> *I used to hate painting. Now it is easier to have patience when it is something you know will be fun.*
> 
> Crazy stuff.
> 
> Keep up the pics and posts.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike




Hope to get tile done by Monday and get the bar seating stained and trim pieces installed and start poly next week.


Then countertops by 2/1.


Then we can turn our attention to the beast that is audio selection and projector hanging...and a ton of other little stuff.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Done staining....I think. Might have to go darker once tile is down.


Some shots....











The difference in these two panels was kind of a lot, but with a countertop and the shadow underneath...shouldn't notice.











Again, the panels are different...but with poly and stiles hopefully it breaks it up.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

The popcorn popper came....











And the 4 - 13175s.....












Only more motivation to get this thing done! Or at least trim and flooring to sit in the chairs.....


The popcorn machine sounds like something to put together now and demo!


EDIT: Mike_WI..notice the "special" opener on the first pic?


----------



## HuskerOmaha












Floor almost laid.....











Floor design turned out fairly well....











Subbing out the shower....didn't want to go farther than this. Water and leakage freaks me out.


Skip the tile saw....


Buy one of these...

http://homerenovations.about.com/od/...snapcutter.htm


----------



## W00lly

Greg


Looking good










When you go to hang your doors go pick up some of these from Menard's. I hung my doors with them and they work pretty slick and they are super fast too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C66BhoZwwCY&NR=1 

http://www.ezhangdoor.com/ 

http://www.thequickdoorhanger.com/


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Nice, I'm jealous, I think I'll ask rsh to deliver my Berklines as incentive to get moving a little faster - need to get the carpet in.


----------



## Mike_WI

Great!

Things are really moving.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19773354
> 
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you go to hang your doors go pick up some of these from Menard's. I hung my doors with them and they work pretty slick and they are super fast too.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C66BhoZwwCY&NR=1
> 
> http://www.ezhangdoor.com/
> 
> http://www.thequickdoorhanger.com/




Thanks! I'll look into this. I have a friend that does trim work and lives in Fremont that is helping me with the doors and base..etc...I'm sure I'll throw some money his way too..but he is getting my stuff from his lumberyard.


Went with lowe's for my oak paneling on bar seating...they charged me like $20 a PANEL. Wow.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19773656
> 
> 
> Nice, I'm jealous, I think I'll ask rsh to deliver my Berklines as incentive to get moving a little faster - need to get the carpet in.



I'm thinking parking my car outside and defrosting it every morning (and that isn't counting incoming snow) I'll be quick to get the trim, counters, and carpet down to unpack those berklines! I'm hoping to have all 3 of those done by 2/1.


Then with the new CHT products for audio being "released" and the shootout subs results on avsforum being done....maybe I can finally settle on my AVR and sub/speakers and really get rolling!


I got the popper built....it looks like overkill and a splurge, but should be fun.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

The speaker and subwoofers I have been considering are going on sale...

http://www.chasehometheater.com/foru...ead.php?t=3800 


I was considering the SHO-10 for my L/C/R and the 18.T (DUO) as my 2-18" subwoofers.


I was going to wait to make a decision until after the Shootout here on AVS and the new finishes on the next line after 2/1 but maybe this is a good offer to take up?


Anyone? Or quit getting excited and slow down.....


Everyone likes to save a penny...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Sounds great to me, but obviously I'm a little biased. If you're looking for people to suggest restraint, this probably isn't the best place to ask.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19779509
> 
> 
> Sounds great to me, but obviously I'm a little biased. If you're looking for people to suggest restraint, this probably isn't the best place to ask.



Probably going to pull the trigger.....


I'm also probably going with the Onkyo NR 1007 via a good B Stock Website....


So...what is left but surrounds:


My two choices:


1) Emotiva ERD-1

*4 ohm Driver.*

One 5.25" Woofer, two 25mm tweeters

Sensitivity:
*89db (2.83volts @ 1 Meter)*

Recommended amplifier power:

50-200 Watts RMS

Frequency response: 80hz-20Khz +/-2db

Weight:

29.5 lbs pair (boxed) - 11 lbs. each (unboxed)

Selectable switches:


1. Left/Right Bipole

2. Left Dipole

3. Right Dipole

4. Left/Right Inverted Dipole


Unboxed (each): 13" wide x 9.5" high x 4.25" deep


2) Axiom QS8


Enclosure: Acoustic Suspension

Max Amp Power: 400 Watts

Min Amp Power: 10 Watts

Freq Resp +/-3dB (Hz): 95 - 20 kHz

Freq Resp +3dB- 9dB (Hz): 65 - 20 kHz
*Impedance (Ohms): 8 Ohms*

SPL in Room1w/1m(dB): 98 dB
*SPL Anechoic 1w/1m(dB): 94 dB*

X-Over 2.5 kHz

Tweeter: Dual 1"

Woofer: Dual 5.25"

Sub Woofer: -

Dimens. H W D (inches): 8.25" x 11" x 6"

Dimens. H W D (mm): 210 x 280 x 152

Weight (lbs) each 13.5 lbs

Weight (kg) each 6.123 kg





So guys...which one?


I'll be powering my L/C/R, Heights and Zone 2 with an Emotiva UPA-7, and my Onkyo NR1007 the Surrounds....or mix it up however I would need to.


I'm worried most about...difference with the 4 ohms/8ohms? I'm leaning towards the more sensitive Axioms....or just waiting and getting something later........


Thanks!


----------



## Mike_WI

Another options for surrounds is this sale on Rocket RSS300's:
http://www.chasehometheater.com/foru...6120#post66120 


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19781231
> 
> 
> Another options for surrounds is this sale on Rocket RSS300's:
> http://www.chasehometheater.com/foru...6120#post66120
> 
> 
> Mike



Those look nice, can they be found in black? I'll check some other websites as well.



How about these for surrounds...mounted on the wall?


----------



## andersa

Hi Greg,


electrostatic speakers are truly remarkable. I couldn't believe what I heard the first time I heard a pair of Martin Logan's. Their size and dipolar nature kinda make them difficult to place.


Great progress otherwise! You sure is working fast and it looks like you'll end up with a fantastic room!


I'm in Omaha too btw.


/Anders


----------



## HuskerOmaha

So, I'm rolling with Chase Home Theater for my subs/L/C/R.


I got a hot deal for 3 SHO-10s and the 18.T "The DUO" package.


Now I'm trying to settle on surrounds.


Might have to get the QS8 Axioms....or look at Rockets or even the Emotiva ERD1s. I don't like how they have a sub 90 sensitivity and are 4 ohms though.



Time to go find a AVR.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Today I purchased:


CS-18.1 T (Dual 18" Subs)

CHT SHO-10 L/C/R

Axiom QS8 Surrounds (I want to try dipole/bipole, sounds interesting for me)

Heights Speakers

Onkyo NR1007 AVR.


Good work for one day.


Now to go get that floor tiled!


Then the shower this weekend....


I also need to look into whole house surge supression. Anyone? Or at least one that I could put inline to my 2-20A circuits at the rack?


Thanks!


----------



## yamahaSHO

Let me know when you get the stereo equipment in. I want to hear it! Hopefully your room plays better with acoustics than mine. I've got plenty of firepower for bass, just not at the seating currently... Slowly working it out.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Well the floor is laid and will be finished tomorrow hopefully.


Did any of you use silicone grout sealer?











I also don't know where I'll put the TP dispenser....hmmm.











On the shower door?


----------



## Sepen

I have the QS8's and the ERD 1's. The QS8 hang on my walls and the ERD's sit in their box. Both sound great, but the QS8 won me over. Enjoy!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19787505
> 
> 
> Today I purchased:
> 
> 
> CS-18.1 T (Dual 18" Subs)
> 
> CHT SHO-10 L/C/R
> 
> Axiom QS8 Surrounds (I want to try dipole/bipole, sounds interesting for me)
> 
> Heights Speakers
> 
> Onkyo NR1007 AVR.
> 
> 
> Good work for one day.
> 
> 
> Now to go get that floor tiled!
> 
> 
> Then the shower this weekend....
> 
> 
> I also need to look into whole house surge supression. Anyone? Or at least one that I could put inline to my 2-20A circuits at the rack?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## mrcoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sepen* /forum/post/19788499
> 
> 
> I have the QS8's and the ERD 1's. The QS8 hang on my walls and the ERD's sit in their box. Both sound great, but the QS8 won me over. Enjoy!



thats funny...I prefered the erd's over the qs8's...funny...in that everyones perception of audio often comes down to personal taste....and I liked the value of the erd's.


benn following the thread...looking good!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrcoop* /forum/post/19789102
> 
> 
> thats funny...I prefered the erd's over the qs8's...funny...in that everyones perception of audio often comes down to personal taste....and I liked the value of the erd's.
> 
> 
> benn following the thread...looking good!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sepen* /forum/post/19788499
> 
> 
> I have the QS8's and the ERD 1's. The QS8 hang on my walls and the ERD's sit in their box. Both sound great, but the QS8 won me over. Enjoy!




Thanks for checking it out guys!


If the ERDs were $250 like some have gotten, instead of the current MSRP $399, I might have jumped....The axioms I got for under $500 from the outlet....


I might end up liking them, I've heard both but for theater I want to try the dipole approach for side surround!


Stay tuned....finish tiling this week..maybe countertops next week...


Electrical should be finished next weekend..Then audio hookup and projector hookup.


----------



## Sepen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrcoop* /forum/post/19789102
> 
> 
> thats funny...I prefered the erd's over the qs8's...funny...in that everyones perception of audio often comes down to personal taste....and I liked the value of the erd's.
> 
> 
> benn following the thread...looking good!



The ERD's did sound good, and to be honest both of them sounded just fine. I like the look of the QS8 and it was a tad smaller in size which fit a peculiar area that I had to install one on.


I paid $299 for the ERD's. They just sit in a box with 30 minutes on them. I just may have to list them.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sometimes you have to mix it up and build more fun stuff.











Snappy "snap-paks", the popcorn scooper, seasonings all arrived...


So we put the popper together as well.


Metropolitan 6oz. Should be fun!


Probably will try out soon.....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Going to try and build a projector mount today.


If that doesn't work..YamahaSHO is going to recoup some money on his Chief mount purchase.



Also going to start filling up the rack.


----------



## Mike_WI

Building a projector mount?

Is this a ceiling mount or a "box"?

Let's see this...


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Mike-


I think I'm going to attach the projector mount to the ceiling via this (painted black or something of course....)

http://www.crunchgear.com/2010/03/12...ceiling-mount/ 


But make the base plate (if Lowes has the materials today) like this....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...232749&page=11 


I don't need the pipe to go so far...I want this as close to the ceiling as possible...I'm just going to buy a bunch of stuff....










I'll put pics up if I get it done today...



EDIT: Option 1 is to mount it flush under the soffit (I have blockouts there and know anywhere I drill I hit a 2x8).

Option 2 is to mount it to the ceiling behind the rear of the soffit (11.5 inch drop). This would allow the projector to be even higher but utilize a longer throw....and use the pipe method. Also didn't block out the ceiling though...


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19795488
> 
> 
> Mike-
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to attach the projector mount to the ceiling via this (painted black or something of course....)
> 
> http://www.crunchgear.com/2010/03/12...ceiling-mount/
> 
> 
> But make the base plate (if Lowes has the materials today) like this....
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...232749&page=11
> 
> 
> I don't need the pipe to go so far...I want this as close to the ceiling as possible...I'm just going to buy a bunch of stuff....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll put pics up if I get it done today...
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Option 1 is to mount it flush under the soffit (I have blockouts there and know anywhere I drill I hit a 2x8).
> 
> Option 2 is to mount it to the ceiling behind the rear of the soffit (11.5 inch drop). This would allow the projector to be even higher but utilize a longer throw....and use the pipe method. Also didn't block out the ceiling though...



Very cool.

A "universal" mount -- eg a piece of wood allows for your projector upgrades in the future. Good thinking.

















Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I figured I would use a lot of rubber grommets (Lowes, automotive section) and rubber washers throughout to limit any vibrations...











I ended up spending about $70 on supplies, but I'll probably return the spray paint and some extra washers and such.


I had Lowes cut the plexiglass sheet into 3 small ones for the projector mounting plate (extra for other projectors later)...and 1 large one for the ceiling mounting plate.











First plate mounted. I had to use M3 size machine screws to mount the small plate to the projector. There were 4 of these holes on my Optoma HD 72. Then, I had to use a 1/4in - 20 machine screw for the middle mount to add some security (seems like a tripod location or something sort of centered in between the 4 M3. Yep, Metric and SAE; awesome).


You could always just use the 1/4" hole in the center, but it flexed the projector casing too much and seemed risky to me. Then again, I could get a new projector quicker if it failed.


The holes for the Optoma HD72 are all seemingly on the left half of the projector. Weird for balance: I'm sure to find out.











I reversed the screws to go towards the ceiling to mount to the larger plate. Spaced out by more washers/rubber grommets, etc. All 1/4in here.











Larger plate mounted.











My biggest trouble was trying to figure out how I wanted to mount the larger plate to the ceiling and leave room to adjust x/y/z axis.


I settled on hooks even though they look pretty DIY I thought it would be easiest using these and the plates for when I get a new projector next year or whenever.











Now do I want to watch football or try to mount this thing?



EDIT: The main problem with my setup is accessing the filter. It is CONVENIENTLY placed so that cover can't be removed unless all of the mount is taken off from the projector. So, cleaned it once now....


I also think cooling should be okay since nothing is flush to the projector casing.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Went down and started playing 720p movie trailers from apple.com/trailers .


Sat the projector up on some boxes about 2 inches from soffit...If I place the projector towards the back end of soffit, I should be able to zoom all the way back to 1.0 and it fills the 118" diagonal...


This setup should work.


I'm not going to hang it...because I wouldn't even be able to get carpet in I'll be watching movies once my audio gets here next week!


Back to sitting on the shelf. Poor projector.


----------



## HuskerOmaha













I think the order I'll put the remaining stuff is...


Onkyo NR 1007 AVR

Emotiva UPA-7

HTPC

Xbox 360

Cable/DVR

HTS5100

AVS2000


Any changes you guys suggest?


I'll eventually put fans/close up the back end once things are getting finished up. Right now the back is open to the storage area.


----------



## Mike_WI

Great pics.

That looks like one lonely, empty rack!










Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I think everyone should buy one of these...and yellow popcorn with the coconut oil please!











Kaiser wants some.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

The dog looks pretty interested =)


----------



## LoudandClear

Wow! You've been a busy bee while I've been away.


Looking really good. Glad to see you are moving forward with the projector mounting and it's working out so far. I would suggest putting the power amp on top and receiver below it. The amp will generate more heat and you don't want that heat flowing through the other gear. Think about what gear needs hands on functions like loading CDs, DVDs, Game discs and such and mount them in the middle of the rack or whatever hight is easily accessible.... Not too high or too low.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19805775
> 
> 
> Wow! You've been a busy bee while I've been away.
> 
> 
> Looking really good. Glad to see you are moving forward with the *projector mounting* and it's working out so far. I would suggest putting the power amp on top and receiver below it. The amp will generate more heat and you don't want that heat flowing through the other gear. Think about what gear needs hands on functions like loading CDs, DVDs, Game discs and such and mount them in the middle of the rack or whatever hight is easily accessible.... Not too high or too low.



Good call. I guess the UPA-7 will probably be generating more heat than the Onkyo AVR since I'll be utilizing all channels on it and 2 on the AVR....


Otherwise, I have the xbox360 and the HTPC set to be arms height for loading...


Thanks guys...


Hopefully tile is done by Friday and trim gets done within a week....countertop and carpet by Superbowl? Probably not, but we can always hope!



EDIT: L/C: I might end up raising my screen a bit...at least to cover the electric panel...maybe 3 inches or so. That would leave eyes at roughly 1/3 height of screen, and my two 20" cube subs could go anywhere across the soundstage instead of corners..thoughts?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'm trying to decide on wall posters.


Theme or no theme?


Batman and James Bond would be in the running...


Or for my next theater build....A Bond one would be AWESOME.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Eyes at 1/3 screen height sounds perfect to me.


No thoughts re: posters, as I personally don't favor that look. Unless they include bimbos, then I might be persuaded.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* 
Eyes at 1/3 screen height sounds perfect to me.


No thoughts re: posters, as I personally don't favor that look. Unless they include bimbos, then I might be persuaded.




True, I may rethink this for the main reason of more reflections and rattling potential...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I might buy one of these...


Suggestions...wait until I set things up? Get it now? Don't need it?


Gramma (23x15.2.8) - $49.95 shipped at Amazon

Great gramma (30x19x2.75) - $79 shipped at Amazon

Subdude (15x15x2.8) - $49.95 shipped at Amazon


http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GREAT-...4847466&sr=1-1 


What do you guys think?


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19815206
> 
> 
> I might buy one of these...
> 
> 
> Suggestions...wait until I set things up? Get it now? Don't need it?
> 
> 
> Gramma (23x15.2.8) - $49.95 shipped at Amazon
> 
> Great gramma (30x19x2.75) - $79 shipped at Amazon
> 
> Subdude (15x15x2.8) - $49.95 shipped at Amazon
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GREAT-...4847466&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?



I would try it without first.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Almost there.....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Going to try and read through the whole thing.


And words of encouragement?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Skip the questions, and look for posts by bpape, Terry Montlick, Ethan Winer, and Dennis Erskine.










I've read it all the way through - twice.


----------



## W00lly

What is the review on the Popcorn machine ?


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19808913
> 
> 
> No thoughts re: posters, as I personally don't favor that look.



I feel the same way. No need to clutter up the walls in the theater. Ans since they would have glass in them and that hard shiney surface would rattle and reflect which is just the opposite of why I covered my walls with cloth and different levels of acoustic insulation. I have thought about putting some up in the hallway leading to theater but never could decide on what to use. But since your's is a gameroom in the back you could put them up back there.


As far as the sub isolation pads, I agree to try them without. Since you're carpeting down there and it's going over concrete slab, there's not much need for isolation IMO. You could also trim down extra carpet and put under there if you want more isolation. There is always left over carpet pieces.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19819257
> 
> 
> Skip the questions, and look for posts by bpape, Terry Montlick, Ethan Winer, and Dennis Erskine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read it all the way through - twice.


*That thread is meaty...I'm not even close but have learned a lot so far..or so I think.*





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19823958
> 
> 
> What is the review on the Popcorn machine ?


*The popcorn machine, I think, is worth it. It is the 6 oz, and me and my wife killed the entire batch of popcorn....but it was alot....enough for 4 people easy. I'm anxious to try other brands as well. I just got Snappy, and it tastes fine. I sort of want to experiment with the liquid butter (or whatever it is) down the road. We tried yellow popcorn with coconut oil, and the white variety as well. I think you NEED coconut oil, otherwise certain microwave varieties are just as good.


Overall, good buy. It was a "little" cheaper on the powerbuy from Roman, but I'm sure you might find a better deal with searching.*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19824240
> 
> 
> I feel the same way. No need to clutter up the walls in the theater. Ans since they would have glass in them and that hard shiney surface would rattle and reflect which is just the opposite of why I covered my walls with cloth and different levels of acoustic insulation. I have thought about putting some up in the hallway leading to theater but never could decide on what to use. But since your's is a gameroom in the back you could put them up back there.
> 
> *You know, that is a great point. I think my plan is to put 6 on the stairway going towards the basement..3 on each side...or my Husker prints I already have (SI Covers of Huskers and the Stealth Bomber flyover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I may also put one of the art film prints I mentioned on the CHT forum in the bathroom.
> 
> 
> I plan on putting velvet curtains across the window on the right side of the room, and make a mirror of it for one to hang on the left. This should also cover the first reflection points, right?*
> 
> 
> As far as the sub isolation pads, I agree to try them without. Since you're carpeting down there and it's going over concrete slab, there's not much need for isolation IMO. You could also trim down extra carpet and put under there if you want more isolation. There is always left over carpet pieces.


*Roger that guys, no isolation pads for now.


Got my Onkyo 1007 tonight, time to go throw it in the rack!*


*As always guys, thanks for the comments and info.*


----------



## HuskerOmaha

R/L Carriers (CHT shipping partner) called and my CHT stuff is coming tomorrow.


I'm psyched.


Can't set it up until Monday at the earliest though....work tomorrow and Saturday is the day to finish up the wiring...


Pick out counters on Monday.....


Picks of the AVR and rack...











Went with the most bang for buck...hope it works out.....











I don't care how many refurbished stickers Onkyo threw on this thing, it still looks perfect..hope the innards are good to go!











I'll take some better pictures later...Just wanted to show you the rack is getting a little bit fuller!


----------



## allbaugh_04

Looks nice.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

What do you guys use for cables?


For the subwoofer cable?


RCA interconnects to amp?


etc?


BlueJeans/Monoprice?


----------



## yamahaSHO

I used Blue Jeans for my 10AWG in-wall speaker wire, but Monoprice for everything else.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I got a box of CL2 wire at Lowes, and some heavier gauge for sub wiring and most everything else at monoprice - some interconnects at partsexpress.


Lots of nice boxes showing up, woot!


----------



## allbaugh_04

I use monoprice. I have for a few years. Prices are great and the quality is even better. It was part of my job in the military building coax cables. I wasn't a pro at it, or even that great, but I know what good quality is and monoprice has it.


I'll continue to buy from them, as long as I can stand to wait on the shipping.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I just need a bunch of these for my preouts...right?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## bencorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19826958
> 
> 
> I just need a bunch of these for my preouts...right?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



Yep, those will work fine. Just make sure 18 inches will be the right length to reach and organize well. Not sure how into wire management you are but I ordered really long cables because I move around quite a bit and always wanted to have long enough wires but it is a ***** to organize when you have a 30 foot wire running 4 feet (I ziptied a lot of wire circles).


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Now where is that truck with my audio equipment!


----------



## Mike_WI

Nice palm trees!


Now hook some stuff up!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Driver had a kid sick so I don't get my BASSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS until Monday.


Epic Fail.


Guess it happens.


Oh well, couldn't have petted, held, photographed them until Sunday at the earliest....


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Boooooo I want unboxing pics!


----------



## Mike_WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
Driver had a kid sick so I don't get my BASSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS until Monday.


Epic Fail.


Guess it happens.


Oh well, couldn't have petted, held, photographed them until Sunday at the earliest....
I'm sorry for you.









However, your post is so funny - in a bummer empathic way.

















Mike


PS - I just checked out the space behind my "false wall" is only 19.5" or so, so CHT CS-18.x subs won't fit back there...


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19829877
> 
> 
> Boooooo I want unboxing pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I know, I had the camera sitting there all morning...waiting...I think it is disappointed as well with his full battery and all*





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19830498
> 
> 
> I'm sorry for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, your post is so funny - in a bummer empathic way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> PS - I just checked out the space behind my "false wall" is only 19.5" or so, so CHT CS-18.x subs won't fit back there...



Mike: Maybe you could build a few subs with some cylinders like yamahaSHO "Z" theater thread! Of course with large drivers. That sucks though, I thought you were eventually thinking of buying....


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

THT LPs are 18" wide


----------



## HuskerOmaha

See Mike, you can build some big ass THT LPs. I think say 4 should fit nice.


Brad, how do those sound vs other subs you have had?


----------



## jim tressler

well done greg! What did you use to cover the electric panel - looked like a cabinet but I didn't see any more pics of it.


thanks


jim


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim tressler* /forum/post/19831517
> 
> 
> well done greg! What did you use to cover the electric panel - looked like a cabinet but I didn't see any more pics of it.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> jim




Jim,


Thanks for reading. I was originally going to cover it with one of those thin electric covers seen in hospitals/commercial buildings etc...to get low profile and paint with a flat paint...but for future resale didn't.....


My cabinet guy built one out of oak for me: same material as cabinets. I thought I had one picture of it sitting out and open on the floor but maybe not. I then painted/sanded with a color to match my screen wall..eventually I'll probably cover the whole wall and panel with OC703 or something.


The cover is 1.5 inches thick, and once I move my screen up 3 inches...only the far right side will be seen with lights on. Working okay so far.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19831453
> 
> 
> See Mike, you can build some big ass THT LPs. I think say 4 should fit nice.
> 
> 
> Brad, how do those sound vs other subs you have had?



The only other sub I've owned is a Velodyne 12-15x (12" driver, 15" passive radiator) - hardly a fair comparison lol. I haven't really got it dialed in yet, but so far so good - generates a ton of output effortlessly - still need to work on positioning and EQ, but haven't put in the effort yet, since no carpet or furniture yet.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19831719
> 
> 
> The only other sub I've owned is a Velodyne 12-15x (12" driver, 15" passive radiator) - hardly a fair comparison lol. I haven't really got it dialed in yet, but so far so good - generates a ton of output effortlessly - still need to work on positioning and EQ, but haven't put in the effort yet, since no carpet or furniture yet.



It looks really interesting. Is it meant to have the driver facing the ceiling? Or is it also suggested to lay on its side?


Maybe I'll buy some blueprints and build one down the road if I could lay it below my screen! Is the driver 15/18"? I'll go read your thread on it again...


I'm going to do the same as you next week. Plug all my stuff in and start playing music/watching demos...get the stuff "broke in".


Then in a month of so when I get some window/wall treatments and carpet...get some buddies over to EQ.


Maybe by then I'll have enough money to buy a CHT CS-18.2 for the corner..and go Geddes on the other 2.


Hmm.........


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

The mouth on the THT can point any direction - recommended ~18" from one wall for corner loading - the best positioning as always really depends on the room, so I'll have to experiment some. I have it standing up for now just because it's easier to move around that way. I'll probably end up with it laying down firing towards the left wall, just under the shelf that supports the LCRs.


It can be built with a 15" or a 12" - mine is 15".


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19832220
> 
> 
> The mouth on the THT can point any direction - recommended ~18" from one wall for corner loading - the best positioning as always really depends on the room, so I'll have to experiment some. I have it standing up for now just because it's easier to move around that way. I'll probably end up with it laying down firing towards the left wall, just under the shelf that supports the LCRs.
> 
> 
> It can be built with a 15" or a 12" - mine is 15".



Cool. It will be interesting to see what yours looks like once you get 'er all done. Saw the overhead bingmap picture or whatever of your place...looks really nice...I like how your HT will be 100 ft+ from anyone/anything but trees/fence!



Shower is almost there...just have to grout and wait for the doors and trim to get in to get the bullnose up to the door frames...











I'm pretty happy how the colors are turning out in everything....


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19830498
> 
> 
> I'm sorry for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, your post is so funny - in a bummer empathic way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> PS - I just checked out the space behind my "false wall" is only 19.5" or so, so CHT CS-18.x subs won't fit back there...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19831014
> 
> 
> Mike: Maybe you could build a few subs with some cylinders like yamahaSHO "Z" theater thread! Of course with large drivers. That sucks though, I thought you were eventually thinking of buying....





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19831280
> 
> 
> THT LPs are 18" wide





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19831453
> 
> 
> See Mike, you can build some big ass THT LPs. I think say 4 should fit nice.
> 
> 
> Brad, how do those sound vs other subs you have had?



I actually figured that 2-4 subs on the sides could still work.

I'll take some pics for the instigators here.

















Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

My Axiom surrounds came in today....FedEx - 1, R/L Carriers - 0.


Painting stairwell today...or trying to get as high as I can without a ladder....


Grouting tile bullnose and shower....


Installing electrical panel and outlets/switches (help of electrician buddy..)


Mounting Axiom Surrounds if I get really excited...



Pictures later!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Goals for today...because you guys care...



Damn straight we do


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19833745
> 
> 
> My Axiom surrounds came in today....FedEx - 1, R/L Carriers - 0.
> 
> 
> Painting stairwell today...or trying to get as high as I can without a ladder....
> 
> 
> Grouting tile bullnose and shower....
> 
> 
> Installing electrical panel and outlets/switches (help of electrician buddy..)
> 
> 
> Mounting Axiom Surrounds if I get really excited...
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures later!



Wow, very industrious.

Much of my family is napping and the rest are watching football.

The most I'm doing is surfing and throwing new logs on the fire.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Got a bunch done today....


Plan on staining the bar seating trim tomorrow and hopefully finish the stairway painting...not looking forward to that!


Word of warning..I like taking pictures...so have fun looking at all I accomplished (wish a bit of help) today....


After these anyone should be able to recreate my basement to the inch!











We put the outlet here so I can cut some holes....run the voltage regulator cord down to the outlet...and still seal off the entire back for fan venting if needed....




















New panel complete and electricity on! 2-20A runs to AV rack done...will put in surge supressor outlets on projector/AV rack outlets down the road...no space in panel for supressor for house for now....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Got the right square to circle gasket to use some leftover ceramic fixtures (=free).....


Got this squared away and hooked up...this is the closet the recessed wine rack sits in..











EDIT: Large forehead = large brain?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Installed the ceiling fan/light combo.


How come is it that every ceiling fan/light I've ever had isn't worth the money? Sonnes what? Oh, this one was north of $120 and it is still loud. I call BS on these products. I'm going to put like 8 more screws into the aluminum surround to see if that stops the sounds....











Notice the speaker for football?



















GFCI for bathroom and a 3-gang switch box...like I said pictures of everything!











Outlets...switches galore! We went with the "decor" style (wide flat switches) for everything.....like the look.


Lutron dimmers for the cans.....otherwise pretty normal....no Graphic Eye in this build...










EDIT: Yes, picky people, I hit the ceiling a few times. That is why they make upshot....

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...1t:429,r:1,s:0


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Haven't wiped off the excess yet...or caulked but...











Love the tile/paint. Worked out well.. Always nervous before you see it done.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Seriously...I need one of those offset ladders...I don't have trees to clog gutters...trying to find a reason to buy one...


Wonder how I'll do the edging up high...ideas?


The gray is a lighter tint of the screen wall.....looks white on bright light....gray after sunset....it will work....


The door at top will be replaced with a "dutch door". Should get trim done over the next week /2.











More of the contrast between the moody blue and the gray.....taped the straight edge...but will redo the gray and moody blue edge one more time...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Kept trying to come downstairs...decided to wear my stocking hat...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Surprise...halfway through work on the basement day....the FedEx guy arrived with the Axioms...were scheduled to get here Monday.


FedEx 1, R/L Carriers 0.










I guess I might as well mount them, right?











Nice packaging....no way these would get injured....











Took the grills off for mounting...easy bracket install...very simple...unlike the Axiom board complaints saying that 12 GA wouldn't fit in the back...they lied. 12 GA easily went in...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

These were really easy to set up...











Without the grills..











Grills on....everything was super smooth...great product..Of course I haven't HEARD them yet!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Are you guys tired of pictures yet?


Okay...well...




















Yes, I am a freak. I wrapped them again after they were mounted with their plastic shipped coverings so dust from woodworking/tile finishing didn't get on them...wouldn't you?


----------



## W00lly

Love the shower tile


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'm done for today....going to Nebr Furniture Mart tomorrow to get bar stool/chairs, frig, a couple couches for upstairs and a new kitchen table/chairs. Should be fun...










Got the stairwell trimmed out and painted...will do another coat once counters/frig etc has been installed downstairs.











Stained the trim for the bar seating..might have to do a 3rd coat....











A picture of the rear of the room...where most of the work has been done lately...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Need some help....











I really want to get shower curtains instead of a door...(don't have to drill through my nice tile...less to clean...etc)...


What do you guys think?


Door or curtains?


This shower will be minimally used fyi.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Door is my vote, frameless - I don't like shower curtains.


----------



## W00lly

You could start with a curtain for now and when the rest of the bleeding has stopped get a glass door but Custom frame-less glass doors are vary costly










I just down graded our main bath back to a shower curtain from glass doors just for the reasons you stated. alot less cleaning and you can just throw away a curtain and replace it with a new one when it gets scummy.


I did alot of searching for top of the line curtain rods and bought mine here

http://www.signaturehardware.com/product11224


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Vote: Shower Door:1, Curtains: 1.


The downside I see to getting curtains is no one seeing the now kickass tile job in there.....I like your curtain link though..those are exactly what I would want.


What about these for bar stools? May buy them tomorrow, I THINK they should match the walls and carpet /bar decently...


http://www.nfm.com/DetailsPage.aspx?ProductID=30297360 


And for the granite...uba tuba...cheap and matches..

http://www.counterrevolutioninc.com/...ba_Granite.jpg 


EDIT: Backs or no backs for chairs???? And why do I keep copying Jamis theater build...


----------



## LoudandClear

YOU are doing a first class job with top quality materials and it looks awesome. Since the shower stall will be used rarely, the cleaning factor of a glass door won't be an issue. I'd say go with a curtain and pull it back so it doesn't hide your work but plan to upgrade later to a door when funds are available if you aren't happy down the road.


----------



## W00lly

I myself think you need to go sit in them. They may look nice but suck to sit on. They need to be comfy enough to sit on for more then a hour or two if there going to be used for watching movies.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guys,


Thanks for the input. I think I will be going with a shower door. BJs Shower Doors has been rec'd by many...here in Omaha.


Went to the Mart today (Neb Furniture Mart). Got my wife 2 loveseats and a new kitchen table/chairs for upstairs.....bar stool selection was crap, but did pick up the Frig.


LG 22520... http://www.lg.com/us/appliances/refr...LBC22520ST.jsp 



This stuff will be delivered Friday. Woot.


I think I am going with Alkar Billiards/Bar Stools...it is at 108th and Maple by Ceramic Tile Works. I'm spoiling myself a bit as the bar stools are about $200-250/piece but they are all custom top to bottom and look and fit feel amazing. Anyone used this place? Looks fun-pick out everything from material/paint/fit/finish... http://www.alkarbilliards.com/servlet/StoreFront 


I'll be going back to order sometime this week...kid was tired from shopping at Mart and wifey was tired from listening to me rambling about granite and bar stools.











Now WHERE IS MY BASSSSSSS?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just need to get my monoprice order in...probably thursday/friday...




















Will set up these puppies friday...day off...!


----------



## W00lly

Whens does carpet get installed


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *W00lly* 
Whens does carpet get installed
Carpet probably won't happen until the end of the job....looking like 5 weeks out or so..


Counters will be ordered probably friday...need to go look at slabs and pick one at a couple places around town.... installed around end of 2nd week of Feb.



Working on trim next 2 weeks...


----------



## imahemi

very nice Greg!!!


house warming party in feb??


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imahemi* /forum/post/19847571
> 
> 
> very nice Greg!!!
> 
> 
> house warming party in feb??



I'll be aiming for the end of February...or start of March Madness.


Money is really tightening up for the big push....between CHT/Counters/Tile/Carpet/Trim/Bar Stools it is north of 7k. Hard to do that this quickly on month to month salaries without hitting savings!


I'll keep you guys posted though....I'd say carpet will go down end of Feb beginning of March. Then it is definitely March Madness down there...


baby boy #2 due April 6th!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Mmmmm boxes - wish I lived closer, I'd be inviting myself over for the first movie.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19847816
> 
> 
> Mmmmm boxes - wish I lived closer, I'd be inviting myself over for the first movie.



And if my brother-in-law would have stayed working for Amgen instead of going to San Diego, I could visit your garage in progress!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Ah well, Thousand Oaks (Amgen) is about an hour drive, San Diego is about two.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Doors pretty much hung....including a big...WOOPS.


Toilet and Shower hardware installed......definitely going to need the door...curtains not going to cut it here.


Pictures incoming......


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Shower hardware done...now just to find that door!











Toilet in. Water on in shower and toilet.











Valves installed for pedestal sink and bar sink.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

So the first and hopefully last Oh @#$) happened today.


So, the "dutch" door I wanted, or where the top and bottom halves of the door open independently was special order. I thought we had everything figured out.


Oh, what about the top half of the door clearing the ceiling that slopes down?


Nope, forgot to think about that. FAIL.











I talked to my buddy that does trim work and he said he could saw the top door in half, put some hinges in it and have it open to the outside towards the right looking at this picture. Hope that works out...to be continued.


Other doors hung....


----------



## LoudandClear

Bummer!










Rather than cut the door, couldn't you just have it open the other direction? Instead of pushing it into the stairwell, you would pull it when standing at the top of the steps wanting to go down. That is if there is enough room in the entryway. When opening a stairwell door from the stair side and having to pull it towards yourself from below is a tricky thing to do anyway.


Or do this,


Cut a wedge off the top door corner to make it clear. Then just trim the doorframe to match. This would work if there isn't a real large amount of door you have to cut off.


Did the previous door have this problem?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19855694
> 
> 
> Bummer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rather than cut the door, couldn't you just have it open the other direction? Instead of pushing it into the stairwell, you would pull it when standing at the top of the steps wanting to go down. That is if there is enough room in the entryway. When opening a stairwell door from the stair side and having to pull it towards yourself from below is a tricky thing to do anyway.
> 
> 
> Or do this,
> 
> 
> Cut a wedge off the top door corner to make it clear. Then just trim the doorframe to match. This would work if there isn't a real large amount of door you have to cut off.
> 
> 
> Did the previous door have this problem?




Thanks for the suggestions.


The prior door opened out. But what you cant see is directly across from this door is the laundry/bathroom door and directly adjacent to the left of this same door is the garage door. 3 doors in the space 1 should be in.


2 of which open into each other (basement and garage).


I'll update you on what we decide...but I think we are swinging it to the right/out for now on the upper half.....hmmm..


A wedge would be approx 1/2 the door...but I like that idea too...


The whole reason I wanted a dutch door was so I could leave the top half open and leave the bottom half shut.


Keep airflow to basement, keep kids from not going where they shouldn't, and if someone needed to go to the garage, etc not hit the garage door when someone else was coming in (parties, etc).


Shucks.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Shower looks great!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19855694
> 
> 
> When opening a stairwell door from the stair side and having to pull it towards yourself from below is a tricky thing to do anyway.



I would think you'd want the door to swing out for that very reason.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19856726
> 
> 
> Shower looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think you'd want the door to swing out for that very reason.




Yeah, you guys are probably right. But for the past 3 years having the garage door hit the door to the basement a few times a week when it wasn't shut was really angering me and wifey.


I'll see what we can do....










On a happier note, I downloaded and installed REW v5!


----------



## yamahaSHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19856960
> 
> 
> Yeah, you guys are probably right. But for the past 3 years having the garage door hit the door to the basement a few times a week when it wasn't shut was really angering me and wifey.



I stopped repairing the paint on the basement door awhile ago because of this.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19856960
> 
> 
> On a happier note, I downloaded and installed REW v5!



Did you pick up an external sound card yet? I recently picked up the Radio Shack SPL meter, I just need to get a sound card for my netbook.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* /forum/post/19857420
> 
> 
> IDid you pick up an external sound card yet? I recently picked up the Radio Shack SPL meter, I just need to get a sound card for my netbook.



I need an external sound card too - and a working home PC to go with it (desktop died, laptop died).


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19857573
> 
> 
> I need an external sound card too - and a working home PC to go with it (desktop died, laptop died).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* /forum/post/19857420
> 
> 
> I stopped repairing the paint on the basement door awhile ago because of this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean...maybe I'll cut the top half ...in half and have it fold in on itself and stay hooked to the wall on the downstairs side of the door...(google dutch door if you have no idea what I'm talking about).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you pick up an external sound card yet? I recently picked up the Radio Shack SPL meter, I just need to get a sound card for my netbook.



DUDE! Just went to radioshack, 156th and maple...the person helping me had never heard of a SPL meter (been there 5 years) and knows they don't stock them. Said maybe the 177th and center? store maybe had one because it was bigger but she said probably have to buy online.


I was like....










Where did you get it?


I don't need an external sound card for my HTPC I don't think, but I'll probably use my laptop. Where to buy that?


I need an SPL meter by friday...irritating...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Hmm that's odd - I checked the RS site to see what stores nearby had it in stock, and asked the guy at the store where it was, and he knew straight away. You got stuck with a noob employee I guess.


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19857790
> 
> 
> DUDE! Just went to radioshack, 156th and maple...the person helping me had never heard of a SPL meter (been there 5 years) and knows they don't stock them. Said maybe the 177th and center? store maybe had one because it was bigger but she said probably have to buy online.
> 
> 
> I was like....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get it?
> 
> 
> I don't need an external sound card for my HTPC I don't think, but I'll probably use my laptop. Where to buy that?
> 
> 
> I need an SPL meter by friday...irritating...



You will be able to setup with Audyssey.

The RS (or other) SPL meter can be helpful for confirming levels and doing subcrawls etc.


I think the Galaxy SPL meters are supposed to be better.


Some info:
http://www.chasehometheater.com/foru...ead.php?t=2938 

(see SPL meter info)
Galaxy CM140


----------



## jim tressler

great pics! if the door being a$$ backward is your only screw up - then you have me beat by a lot! Can I ask one favor - when time permits can you post a few more pics of the electrical panel door / cover - I am looking for some more views that show them closed as well as a side view and a close up of the hinge.


thanks!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim tressler* /forum/post/19857875
> 
> 
> great pics! if the door being a$$ backward is your only screw up - then you have me beat by a lot! Can I ask one favor - when time permits can you post a few more pics of the electrical panel door / cover - I am looking for some more views that show them closed as well as a side view and a close up of the hinge.
> 
> 
> thanks!



Mike,


Good point. I'll just order an SPL meter online...maybe the Galaxy? And screw around with that later.....


I should probably get some quality mounts first!











Jim,


I'll try and do that tonight or tomorrow for you (pics). Time to get to work.


Sometimes I think I'm putting TOO many pictures on here....like my wife asked the other night...is ANYONE ELSE posting on this? haha she is so funny!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19857816
> 
> 
> Hmm that's odd - I checked the RS site to see what stores nearby had it in stock, and asked the guy at the store where it was, and he knew straight away. You got stuck with a noob employee I guess.



Brad,


I didn't do much store research, had to hit HyVee (grocery) and it was nearby...


The worst part of running around is taking my 18 mo old in/out of the car so much!


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19857930
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> 
> Good point. I'll just order an SPL meter online...maybe the Galaxy? And screw around with that later.....
> 
> 
> I should probably get some quality mounts first!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim,
> 
> 
> I'll try and do that tonight or tomorrow for you (pics). Time to get to work.
> 
> 
> Sometimes I think I'm putting TOO many pictures on here....like my wife asked the other night...is ANYONE ELSE posting on this? haha she is so funny!



When you are sharing more pics of your HT build -- and mounts, grout, hinges, etc. -- than your kids -- well then you have a problem.

Welcome to AVS...










Mike


----------



## yamahaSHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19857790
> 
> 
> DUDE! Just went to radioshack, 156th and maple...the person helping me had never heard of a SPL meter (been there 5 years) and knows they don't stock them. Said maybe the 177th and center? store maybe had one because it was bigger but she said probably have to buy online.
> 
> 
> I was like....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get it?
> 
> 
> I don't need an external sound card for my HTPC I don't think, but I'll probably use my laptop. Where to buy that?
> 
> 
> I need an SPL meter by friday...irritating...



I got mine when I was in Grand Island over New Years. They had plenty in stock.


I have an X-fi card I could put in my HTPC, but would rather just get an external for my Netbook as I pass sound through HDMI with the HTPC and there would be no other reason to add another component, heat, driver, and whatever other mess it has.


I'll have to look again, but bookmarked a $50 external that people have used with REW. Now what computer (or phone) did I bookmark that on?


----------



## jim tressler

lol.. too many pics.. never!


----------



## Triaxtremec

HuskerOmaha, are you in West O? I'm out near 192nd and Harrison, love the progress so far.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19857966
> 
> 
> When you are sharing more pics of your HT build -- and mounts, grout, hinges, etc. -- than your kids -- well then you have a problem.
> 
> Welcome to AVS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


*I told her there are many things worse than me taking too many pictures and posting to 'anonymous" people on avsforum. I think she is more worried I haven't actually met anyone..that will change sooner or later*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* /forum/post/19858039
> 
> 
> I got mine when I was in Grand Island over New Years. They had plenty in stock.
> 
> 
> I have an X-fi card I could put in my HTPC, but would rather just get an external for my Netbook as I pass sound through HDMI with the HTPC and there would be no other reason to add another component, heat, driver, and whatever other mess it has.
> 
> 
> I'll have to look again, but bookmarked a $50 external that people have used with REW. Now what computer (or phone) did I bookmark that on?


*Let me know if you find that. I'll just order that and a galaxy tonight from work. Website suggestions? Partsxpress? Others? amazon? newegg?*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Triaxtremec* /forum/post/19858355
> 
> 
> HuskerOmaha, are you in West O? I'm out near 192nd and Harrison, love the progress so far.


*150th and Maple. I have a bunch of friends down on Harrison around 186th or so right south of there.*


Mike and others: Which Galaxy to buy with a Mic out? I want to utilize REW on the laptop!


----------



## LoudandClear

Keep the pictures coming. It keeps our interest higher and helps us to feel the excitement!










I used a M-Audio external soundcard/pre-amp and a Behringer microphone when i calibrated my room with REW. I also bought a BFD for $99 at Guitar Center to have a multichannel PEQ for smoothing out bumps. I can get you model numbers tonight if you are interested.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19859420
> 
> 
> Keep the pictures coming. It keeps our interest higher and helps us to feel the excitement!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a M-Audio external soundcard/pre-amp and a Behringer microphone when i calibrated my room with REW. I also bought a BFD for $99 at Guitar Center to have a multichannel PEQ for smoothing out bumps. I can get you model numbers tonight if you are interested.


*Yes Please.


And you got it on the pictures! I'm sure I'll freak out with the AV equipment....







*


----------



## LoudandClear

I used the M-Audio MobilePre USB http://cgi.ebay.com/M-Audio-MobilePr...item4cf48015c4 and the microphone was the Behringer ECM8000 http://cgi.ebay.com/Behringer-ECM800...item19c286dca4 .


I chose these after reading a bunch on the REW forums and Ethan Winer's forums from Home Theater Shack website.... There was also a really good complete set of instructions on how to set this up, calibrate it and create PEQ filters in the BFD so I went tis route to simplify. Now it's been over 3yrs since I did this and I haven't used the gear since. I was able to get my MFW15s flat down to ~15hz and then they rolled off pretty steep which is normal for ported subs. I also have a Rat Shack SPL meter. I also chose this mic and preamp because it was highly rec'd due to it's ability to measure accurately in the lowest bass regions. If I recall correctly the rat shack meters are pretty inaccurate below 30hz. This wasn't the end all in accuracy but it seemed to give a good compromise between $$ and performance. I think I set my spending limit at around $100 for the mic and preamp/soundcard.


As far as the SPL meter goes. I didn't really use it much at all. It will only be useful to give you a reference point for your frequency response plot. I really didn't care if my subs were playing at 100dB or 120db as long as the response was flat and sounded good at the level I was playing with. I knew it was shaking the foundation of the house when cranked so it was plenty loud enough when needed.


Mike


----------



## yamahaSHO

Here is what I'm looking at getting. I don't want to spend much as I can't imagine I'd get a lot of use out of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sound-Blaster-X-...item35af097379


----------



## enderland

I just read through this entire thread - looks AWESOME and gives me some good encouragement for something similar to this in the future for myself 


Everything looks really nice and you are working insanely fast on it.


I'll be watching to see the end as it really looks well done. Greetings from Ames, Iowa!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enderland* /forum/post/19861576
> 
> 
> I just read through this entire thread - looks AWESOME and gives me some good encouragement for something similar to this in the future for myself
> 
> 
> Everything looks really nice and you are working *insanely fast* on it.
> 
> 
> I'll be watching to see the end as it really looks well done. Greetings from Ames, Iowa!



Pregnant wife due in early April is making me work faster than I imagined..I want a few weeks of playing movies at reference until I can't unless I'm home alone! Thanks for the comments..(Go Cyclones?)..this is going to be a fun, though rather expensive hobby...



UPDATE: Sink is mounted..pictures to follow. Thankfully the door clears the sink by an INCH or so when thrown all the way open. I was pretty adamant about that not opening out...so luckily it is working! I love not measuring enough and things working out....



JIM HERE ARE YOUR PICTURES!


If you need more pictures, I'll just burn a CD and mail you all the diagrams, specs, pics I can.


















(Cabinet hinge, showing the difference)





























Side View










Open










Shut











I originally wanted the frame to inset into the cutout of the drywall and then just have the covers past the plane of the wall..but I couldn't get hinges that would work from my cabinet guy.


My Carada frame clears/leans against the doors. I'm going to move it up a couple inches so that you don't see the edge of the cabinets poking out. I know that isn't the perfect offset from my lens requirement for the picture (Don't yell at me Erksine group!!!) but I'll see what it looks like...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sink is mounted...all that is left to mount is the bar sink once counters are in (Feb 17th....)


Any suggestions for a cool bar sink? Stainless steel is the one requirement.


I'd buy it online if anyone has fun suggestions...


Pictures...


Door clearing the sink (thank you very much!)











Was able to hide MOST of the pipes...but what can you do.











Going with brushed bronze or whatever they are calling it....











And it works!


----------



## riverst

Wow! All I can say is Wow! DIY at its best.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just needs some stain here and there...then the poly.


Woodworking DONE for this!


Closeup this thing looks a lot more expensive than it cost....


These can lights and camera flash don't do it justice...





























My German Shepherd follows me everywhere..











I still think stone veneer would have looked cool..but this was cheaper, easier, and more practical.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Ended up doing a total DIY and we cut the top half of the door in half top to bottom. Hinged it down the middle. It looks pretty darn good.


Pictures later...and problem solved!


----------



## HuskerOmaha












I hope the white + dark wood looks good...I think it will.....


Opinions?


Can't go back now! Will have to paint the doors of course...and trim...just primer on for now..


CHT CS 18.T (2-18" subs) and the 3-SHO-10 Speakers...




















AMP.











Amp just barely squeezed into the rack...about as wide as the subs..


----------



## HuskerOmaha












Oh ya, that is what I call a good fit.











Storage area seen behind rack...will close up back later...











Looks great in the rack.


Now just need to figure out how to get 12 GA run behind the framing of the screen wall to the far sub spot (by window). I ran it from the window sub access (far right corner of screen wall) to the left sub access (under rack area, left corner screen wall) with 12 GA. I also ran a RCA from the rack through smurf to the left corner screen wall access for the sub. I was planning on putting the amp on top of the sub...but want the cleaner look of racking it.


I need to take the RCA out. ...run 12 GA from rack to the first sub spot...then run 12 GA from the rack to the 2nd sub spot...hope I can fish it!











The start of disorganization.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Michael (desertdome) lent me some SPL meters to get some stuff dialed in over the next week.


Unboxed the CHT stuff and it looks great!


Pics later...


----------



## LoudandClear

Looks great. You do nice work. I'd think you were a professional home contractor by the quality of your work.










You might consider moving that 1000w amp up near the top of the rack. I don't know that particular amp and how hot it gets but just in case.


Waiting on pictures of the subs and SHO10s! As far as getting the speaker wire to the subs: since you are going with carpet you can just tuck it under the baseboard and once the carpet is in place you won't see it.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19870465
> 
> 
> Looks great. You do nice work. I'd think you were a professional home contractor by the quality of your work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Hah, yah right. It is coming along though. The granite people pissed me off today. Drug my wife all the way with kid in snow to granite place. (distributor). Picked out a slab. Left to go get a mount for my Center channel...guy from fabricator/installer calls...oh that slab is $500 more to install. Distributor told me they were the same price.
> 
> 
> I told both I was "pissed off" and might not talk to them again.
> 
> 
> Seriously, why is this so hard..give me the straight price while I'm there and quit acting like car salesmen.
> 
> 
> Anyways....
> 
> 
> Gonna start taking more pics soon..*
> 
> 
> You might consider moving that 1000w amp up near the top of the rack. I don't know that particular amp and how hot it gets but just in case.
> 
> *I've been trying to figure it all out...I may do that...but my HTPC and Xbox360 I want at arm height to use...I'm running out of room!*
> 
> 
> Waiting on pictures of the subs and SHO10s! As far as getting the speaker wire to the subs: since you are going with carpet you can just tuck it under the baseboard and once the carpet is in place you won't see it.


*Good call...screw trying to fish it behind my wall like I was planning to!*


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Trim isn't done yet....but I guess we will just plug 'er in!





























A 'lil Coors Light never hurt anybody..


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Okay...I figured I might as well get the projector mounted one of these days...


I have no seats installed to watch anything so the temptation isn't as great...





























These things are huge.


Yes, the feet look funny. But otherwise everything looks awesome!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Mounted.


Not the way I imagined it...but it works for now and fills the frame almost spot on. I'll tweak later once the carpet gets in....




















The four adjustment points need springs added for ease of use....and maybe should have used 6 of those..but it works..


----------



## HuskerOmaha







































Used a Sanus mount from NFM here in Omaha. $68 was way too much for that puppy. The monoprice mounts are stressed with my lightweight heights, I bet they would have bent with the SHO-10s.


I'll probably buy a couple more of those LCD mounts...they are smooth and really adjustable...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I have to work at 6am otherwise I'd be down there calibrating....


I tried Audyssey but it wants to think I don't have subs apparently...




















Brother came over from Lincoln to help me hang the speakers....











So, I kind of just want to shut a door on this....but will be fun to organize down the road...


----------



## yamahaSHO

As fast as you're burning through this, you need to come over here so I can put you to work!


Looking good!


----------



## Mike_WI

Great pics.

For your rack area will you have some way to block the light coming out from all the electronics?


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* 
As fast as you're burning through this, you need to come over here so I can put you to work!

*You sure you don't want to come over and help me organize the rack, show me how to calibrate so I don't have to read it all?*


Looking good!
Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* 
Great pics.

For your rack area will you have some way to block the light coming out from all the electronics?

*Yeah, I have my rack hole measured, I need to order the glass. I'm getting a grey annealed 1/4"? that should let you see what lights are on (cool factor) but not let the light shine directly through the glass messing with the projection screen...etc...*


Mike
Hope to do a couple things tonight and get more pictures up...invert Center so waveguide is near screen....and maybe organize cables and/or try and calibrate.....


EDIT: Parents are in town and might have to attend a birthday party...we will see what happens!


----------



## LoudandClear

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
Mounted.


Not the way I imagined it...but it works for now and fills the frame almost spot on. I'll tweak later once the carpet gets in....
Wow! Getting really close to show time










As far as the projector mounting goes I might suggest getting a *********** cord with a 90 degree bend at the plug and it should pretty much disappear..


How did you mount that LCD bracket to your SHO10 center? Did you have to drill holes in your new speakers


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Will be interested to hear what you think of the sub once dialed in, I haven't heard one yet. Oh, and I guess I have the same question as Mike re: the av rack next to the screen, and how you'll tame the lights to ensure it doesn't throw a glow on the left side of the screen. A solid door, or smoked glass?


----------



## enderland

Do you have a lot of background in home improvement projects?


Everything looks very well done.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19875461
> 
> 
> Wow! Getting really close to show time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the projector mounting goes I might suggest getting a *********** cord with a 90 degree bend at the plug and it should pretty much disappear..
> 
> *That's a great idea actually. I'll keep it in mind..right now I'm trying to just get stuff installed and tweak and make things "show quality" over the next few weeks...after we get carpet in and I can install chairs, subs for final spots, EQ, etc..I'll be ready to do stuff like that. Good idea though.*
> 
> 
> How did you mount that LCD bracket to your SHO10 center? Did you have to drill holes in your new speakers


*Oh boy, did I drill that sucker! 4 lag screws (1-1.5", I forget) into that puppy. It ain't going nowhere! The crossover is at the bottom of the speaker (or as far as I remember Craig saying...) so we are good. Hey, I got sound coming out!







*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19875519
> 
> 
> Will be interested to hear what you think of the sub once dialed in, I haven't heard one yet. Oh, and I guess I have the same question as Mike re: the av rack next to the screen, and how you'll tame the lights to ensure it doesn't throw a glow on the left side of the screen. A solid door, or smoked glass?


*Yeah, since I'm totally new to "dailing in" anything...might be a few days of trying to figure that out, let alone getting into REW and posting some of those...then have to do it all over once I get my velvet curtains and carpet of course! The rack hole will have a smoked, gray, annealed 1/4" glass door on it. I want to be able to see all of the lights, and not have them shine through.....had a guy from a glass company check it out and he said that should work for me....I need to get a piece for the cabinets above the bar sink as well..trying to figure out whether to go clear or something cool like frosted...*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enderland* /forum/post/19875641
> 
> 
> Do you have a lot of background in home improvement projects?
> 
> *Home improvement? Not too much. I grew up a farm kid, so maybe that helps with some stuff. I've asked a LOT of friends for help. Best friend is an electrician, have another college friend that works with doors/trim, hired out drywall and other certain things (running plumbing lines from house lines, etc). I'm actually to the point now where I don't know how to give my room the finished look. Any help there is appreciated...to me the screen wall needs treatments...maybe like a black acoustic fabric or 2x4' panels cut to fit around everything....ideas?*
> 
> 
> Everything looks very well done.




Other things....


1) Is there a thread on here that would work best for me to start getting my hands dirty calibrating this weekend? Go to the Onkyo 1007 thread for my AVR? Go to all the REW calibration threads? Mike has a bunch listed in his build thread and has a thread on CHT forums....? Anyone any newbies found the best "dumbed down" to start with?


2) Any other thoughts for countertop ideas? Want granite...but I'm annoyed at the process right now. Pouring a concrete bar and staining it is probably not going to go over well with the wife...anything else?










3) Do I try and throw in any treatments prior to carpet? I like Brad's basetraps...I'm not sure how I could make mini ones of those..I've heard you can never have too much...and I should have enough power with the CS-18's....


----------



## LoudandClear

An affordable DIY option for bar countertop would be to use large tiles. I used 18 inch porcelan tiles that were finished to look like polished marble and matched the floor in my theater kitchen. If you get ones big enough to cover the depth then you only have seams in one direction. I used hardwood chair rail trim to cover the front and stained it to match my cabinets & other woodwork. I placed the tiles very close together to minimize the look of grout lines. Came out as good or better than I hoped for a low $$ alternative to granite. Excuse the cds on the counter. The tall cabinet on the end is for cd storage but these weren't filed away yet.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Your screen wall doesn't have a lot of room for traps, but you could make some tri-corner traps in the top corners - wall-wall-ceiling intersection. You could also do something at the screen wall floor intersection, but not sure that that wouldn't look odd. What about the rear of the room, did you post pics of that I don't recall.


Do you have a riser? If so, that could be a trap.


I like the idea of flipping the center - maybe also elevate the L & R - not sure if you were planning on keeping them on top of the subs, or mount high like the center, or if the outlets up high are for that.


I've seen granite tiles used, and they look nice, and much cheaper than a slab.


For Audyssey, try doing full auto first, double check that you're set to small LCR and 80 Hz.


BTW, what does the cabinet behind the right side of the screen lead to?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19876392
> 
> 
> Your screen wall doesn't have a lot of room for traps, but you could make some tri-corner traps in the top corners - wall-wall-ceiling intersection. You could also do something at the screen wall floor intersection, but not sure that that wouldn't look odd. What about the rear of the room, did you post pics of that I don't recall.
> 
> *The rear has the wetbar/cabinet area and the bathroom...really nowhere for a trap other than the wall to utility room corner...potential there...but that might not help much?*
> 
> 
> Do you have a riser? If so, that could be a trap.
> 
> *Nope, just that awesome bar without a counter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> I like the idea of flipping the center - maybe also elevate the L & R - not sure if you were planning on keeping them on top of the subs, or mount high like the center, or if the outlets up high are for that.
> 
> *The L/R will be off the subs and a foot or two higher...where those outlet boxes are above the subs..I think you can see over the SHOs actually...*
> 
> 
> I've seen granite tiles used, and they look nice, and much cheaper than a slab.
> 
> *They look nice, I'd probably need 22-24" depth for the bar (which since I was planning a slab I have no support for across the side where you are watching from)....and then I'd need a different solution for the kitchenette area...*
> 
> 
> For Audyssey, try doing full auto first, double check that you're set to small LCR and 80 Hz.
> 
> *Roger that...*
> 
> 
> BTW, what does the cabinet behind the right side of the screen lead to?
> 
> *I'm glad you spotted that piece of ugliness...that is the electrical cabinet...I might move the screen up a bit to cover the top...but when the lights off you obviously don't notice it...one of those things I wish I could have done an AT screen but wife didn't want that and the room isn't too large as it is.....(why I kind of want to make a ton of 2x4 acoustic panels and put them all around the screen...including over that and around all the speakers...)*




LC- I like your idea for tiles and people have told me that as well....hmm


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Hey guys,


I'm a little overwhelmed with the whole "calibration" thing. Just run audyssey and try that out? How do I know if the subs are EQ'd right? Feels like......?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Before worrying about EQ for the subs, make sure you've got the best location for them. Play some bass heavy music and try each of the seating locations. Does the bass sound right from there, or lacking somewhat, or boomy (favors some frequencies over others)?


In my room fir example, I can tell straight away that the room is accentuating one LF area a lot - feels like a certain frequency is "droning", dominates other LF content. Also, you'll probably notice that bass feels much stronger as you walk to the rear corners of the room.


Since you have two subs, I'd start with just one turned on, and do the bass crawl: place the sub temporarily in your main seating position, and then crawl around to various potential sub locations and see where it sounds best to you. Once you've found the best spot, move the sub there and you should have similar response back at the seating position.


For the second sub, repeat (keeping the first sub on and in it's best position); or just try a position symmetrical to the first sub.


For EQ - you'll want to measure using REW mic'ed from your seating position at ear level - then generate some FR and waterfall charts using log scale, and post them, we can see what you're dealing with. Could just luck out and need nothing, who knows.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thanks for the reply. As long as my wife doesn't guilt me tonight with lack of "family time", I am going to try Brad's suggestion out after the Jets/Steelers game.....


Should I run Audyssey for the other speakers first/shut subs off? Start out doing what you said for subs?


There is just so much information out there on calibration. Makes me want to run out and buy that Omnimic or whatever from partsxpress for $298.










Thanks for the info..I've read through the bossobass pdf as well a couple times...I'll start there!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Run Audyssey full auto, then try out diff sub locations (crawl), you'll need to do Audyssey again if the subs moved.


----------



## desertdome

You're making some good progress. I personally don't think changing the center speaker will make any noticeable difference from the listening position. I would spend time on completing things and leave that for a later time. I have the same Dayton amp and it never even gets warm. I wouldn't worry about its location in the rack.


I can stop by after work tomorrow and we can run through some things and check your levels. You are off tomorrow, right? Just because you run Audyssey doesn't mean that the bass management in your receiver is set correctly, either.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *desertdome* /forum/post/19886128
> 
> 
> You're making some good progress. I personally don't think changing the center speaker will make any noticeable difference from the listening position. I would spend time on completing things and leave that for a later time. I have the same Dayton amp and it never even gets warm. I wouldn't worry about its location in the rack.
> 
> 
> I can stop by after work tomorrow and we can run through some things and check your levels. You are off tomorrow, right? Just because you run Audyssey doesn't mean that the bass management in your receiver is set correctly, either.




Michael,


Turning that center channel around is definitely a 2-man job...I'll have to wait until I have someone there to assist. Suckers ain't light!


That would be great if you could swing by tomorrow.....I'm going to try and do the polarity test tonight and maybe run audyssey once from 8 positions etc...and see what it does...


Yep, I have the whole day off tomorrow. Trying to get the trim and doors done so I can call the carpet people.


----------



## huskerfan62




> Quote:
> A 'lil Coors Light never hurt anybody..



Now you're just making me thirsty.. I have to warn you though.. the coors light is what kept slowing down my project.


----------



## W00lly

Was wondering who all is going to be stopping by Saturday for a little HT action







I thought I would pick up a couple new Blurays to check out


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19888211
> 
> 
> Was wondering who all is going to be stopping by Saturday for a little HT action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I would pick up a couple new Blurays to check out



I should be there, and I'll be bringing another guy big into HT, he just doesn't post much on here.


Jason, Michael, others?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Take what you will +/- from the finishes...but they looked pretty good and have no shipping damage! These are Craigsub's last run of this finish and box construction..he is moving to integrated legs and the harder finish.


I'll more than likely be upgrading to the new enclosure per Craig's offer to everyone on the forum site.






































I think eventually I'll rub the corrugated box image off the sub.....











Center




















Will mount the L/R next week or weekend...











Maybe I'll get the wife to pose...but my GSD was all for it!


EDIT: Wish I would have made the AT screen work...I now believe that is the only way to go!


----------



## desertdome




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19888211
> 
> 
> Was wondering who all is going to be stopping by Saturday for a little HT action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I would pick up a couple new Blurays to check out



I hope to come. I checked with my wife this evening and she has some pictures planned for 2 pm on Saturday.







I'm trying to get the time moved down.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Hey, personally I'm glad that the first runs had some scratches and nicks - those scratches and nicks saved me over $1000!


----------



## W00lly

desertdome


If you can make it that would be great. How long will pictures take ?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Home Theater Shack website....excel download...


FREQ / RAW SPL / SPL (comp)

16 84 96.7

18 83 93.6

20 84 93.1

22 86 93.6

25 92 98.5

28 92 97.3

31.5 94 98.4

36 95 98.6

40 96 99

45 98 100.4

50 102 104

56 97 98.6

63 95 96.3

71 90 91.1

80 85 86

89 85 85.9

100 80 80.8

111 88 88.8

125 82 82.8


I guess it would have been easier to attach the excel now that I typed that all!


I'll get a graph up later....


----------



## HuskerOmaha












I'll have to figure out how to do the Audyssey graph as well.


Will try and have that up by the weekend. This is just the sub graph.....looks decent doesn't it?


EDIT: Dayton Amp EQ settings: Freq: 20, Bandwidth: 0.4, Level +4.


----------



## HuskerOmaha






















Counters come in Feb 17th....Carpet after.


Things to do:


Glass door for rack enclosure and glass insert for cabinet above sink....


Shower door.....

Bathroom mirror....and hang light fixture. Buy toilet seat.


Ceiling fan...find one that spans


----------



## jet2233

I like your choice of wall paint color alot. I bet the rooms gonna look good when you get done with it. I been lookin for the right color for my living room and I may do it with this color.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet2233* /forum/post/19900655
> 
> 
> I like your choice of wall paint color alot. I bet the rooms gonna look good when you get done with it. I been lookin for the right color for my living room and I may do it with this color.



Moody Blue by Sherwin Williams....looks awesome in most light.


Screen wall I have forgotten but it is in the thread...maybe Greys Harbor?


I like them both!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Hey,


So, I think these are the three granite slabs for me...all the same price.


Uba Tuba, Verde Peacock, Verde Butterfly.


What would you pick given the look of my basement?


I need 36 sq feet so I'm buying one slab....



All three link

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370981 


Uba Tuba

http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/l...415263949.html 



Anyways..I was at one time leaning one way...


Any suggestions? I wanted Irish Black but for my area it is $500 more...not worth the price of maybe a DIY sub!


----------



## jim tressler

verde peakcock or uba tuba.. either one looks good to me!


----------



## yamahaSHO

Since you got REW up and running... When can you make it out here and run it on my system?







. I've been slow to get that going; I still need a sound card for my netbook.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* /forum/post/19907121
> 
> 
> Since you got REW up and running... When can you make it out here and run it on my system?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've been slow to get that going; I still need a sound card for my netbook.



Jim-I was down to those as well....I'll see what the slabs look like tomorrow again!


Jason-I don't have REW neccesarily up and running yet...but I have desertdomes radioshack meter and that is our spl results with just subs...


I'll run another with the L/C/R here soon....


I could definitely help you with that now that I know how it works!



REW in the next few months! I'll be getting a preamp and maybe the behringer..or just continue to beg and borrow!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

We can talk about it on Saturday, but I'd like to organize a little Saturday or Sunday mini-trip to eD in Iowa with you local guys..........


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I like the Tuba.


If you decide to get a Feedback Destroyer, check eBay, plenty of good deals. I watched for a while and found an FBQ2496 for $65.


----------



## LoudandClear

I also like the Uba Tuba out of your choices you gave. Isn't the Uba Tuba the least green out of your choices? I was just in a granite store (Panda Kitchen and Bath) yesterday and bought 55 SF of Black/Brown 3CM for a rental house. Prices were really affordable, too bad there isn't one up on Omaha.


----------



## NicksHitachi

Out of the two mentioned I like the tuba too...


I went with Baltic brown in my kitchen and thats what I'll put on my bar too....
http://www.headlandstile.com/images/...ic%20Brown.jpg 


Also look around at those places that have granite for sale and go ask about remnants(scraps). There is a place local here where my buddy got his bar out of a remnant cut to size for about $50 solid granite top.......


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19908410
> 
> 
> I like the Tuba.
> 
> 
> The tuba is the darkest which I like, but the verde maybe had more variation in it (the movement!). Anyways...having people over so I'm going to go get samples of the 2 or 3 for people to offer opinions on.
> 
> 
> If you decide to get a Feedback Destroyer, check eBay, plenty of good deals. I watched for a while and found an FBQ2496 for $65.



Nice call. I'll probably check ebay first...haven't shopped on there for a couple years now!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19908883
> 
> 
> I also like the Uba Tuba out of your choices you gave. Isn't the Uba Tuba the least green out of your choices? I was just in a granite store (Panda Kitchen and Bath) yesterday and bought 55 SF of Black/Brown 3CM for a rental house. Prices were really affordable, too bad there isn't one up on Omaha.



The tuba seems to be the darkest, with the green only really coming alive when the lights are on...the butterfly has that large pattern and the peacock is an interesting middle choice but maybe too much gold.


I've checked remnants but here is the deal....I could maybe get one for the bar but the kitchenette needs something from a slab...maybe I'll do a mix and match with the same type...I'll look into this! I know you can order slabs from California for 100-200 that are sized for my bar...and then pay 100 for shipping...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicksHitachi* /forum/post/19908901
> 
> 
> Out of the two mentioned I like the tuba too...
> 
> 
> I went with Baltic brown in my kitchen and thats what I'll put on my bar too....
> http://www.headlandstile.com/images/...ic%20Brown.jpg
> 
> 
> Also look around at those places that have granite for sale and go ask about remnants(scraps). There is a place local here where my buddy got his bar out of a remnant cut to size for about $50 solid granite top.......



Consolidated Kitchens here in omaha may have remnants..hmmm...


Think I should check it out?

http://www.facebook.com/pages/CKF-Fa...15459775130767 

http://www.ckfco.com/


----------



## desertdome




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19891427
> 
> 
> desertdome
> 
> 
> If you can make it that would be great. How long will pictures take ?



The pictures are rescheduled. I'll be there tomorrow.



Happy 28th Birthday, HuskerOmaha!


----------



## W00lly

ckfco are high as hell you would think there was gold flecks in there quartz and granite at the price they charge. But I do like the quality of there stuff


My sister just had some granite installed from http://www.premiercountertops.com/ and said there prices were pretty reasonable


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guys,



Went to consolidated kitchens remnant place and found a slab of brazilian green granite that is similar to uba tuba that could go on my bar sink counter and then a slab of quartz (some black thing) that could be my bar seating area.


Price for them to do it all: $1500. WTF? Remnants. Seriously. Anyways...that was one quote.


Waiting on premiere countertops to send me the quote, stopped by there..nice people.


Went and got samples of uba tuba and verde butterfly from UGM for people to check out tonight.

Pretty sure uba tuba is going to win out. It looks nice with my carpet and bar seating.


EDIT: Got my quote from premier: $2204. I think the square feet I told them is a bit off, but still....probably $2k.


Ceramic Tile Works is next.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I got a co-worker coming tomorrow, names Nate. Michael is showing...Scott who else you got? Jason? anyone else for sure? imahemi?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Did you look at granite tiles? I don't remember if that came up, but a cost saving alternative (if you don't mind the seams).


----------



## engtaz

Great looking setup. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## W00lly

Jason my friend Chris and his brother, Ryan, Michael, Nate, you. I invited a few others but they had plans. I have a couple lawn chairs we can throw in there too







I picked up the movie RED to watch


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19911559
> 
> 
> Did you look at granite tiles? I don't remember if that came up, but a cost saving alternative (if you don't mind the seams).



I thought of that, I'd need 24" tiles but I didn't really set up my bar seating to be able to support those..I guess it wouldn't be hard but I think I've settled on uba tuba and just gonna eat this one. I like the smooth look for a bar....we'll see what I can get the quote lowered to.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *engtaz* /forum/post/19912273
> 
> 
> Great looking setup. Thanks for sharing.



Thanks, it is coming along nicely!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19914122
> 
> 
> Jason my friend Chris and his brother, Ryan, Michael, Nate, you. I invited a few others but they had plans. I have a couple lawn chairs we can throw in there too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up the movie RED to watch




Nice, see you then!


----------



## W00lly

There is another granite place up off L just west of 144th. You mite even look at Direct buy


----------



## imahemi

Quote:

Originally Posted by *W00lly* 
Jason my friend Chris and his brother, Ryan, Michael, Nate, you. I invited a few others but they had plans. I have a couple lawn chairs we can throw in there too







I picked up the movie RED to watch


good movie to watch... lol watched it last night... doh! should have caught this... at least i will have a good comparison







see ya in a few


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *W00lly* 
There is another granite place up off L just west of 144th. You mite even look at Direct buy
If I do direct aren't I messing with fabrication? Or the lack of...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Carpetland quoting me $1400 for carpet in the area left in the basement and stairs. Thats including the heaviest pad.


Any better alternatives? Its a Shaw varietal and decent quality....


----------



## yamahaSHO

I used Carpet Land as well and have been happy with them so far. I also used their best pad and it feels very nice to walk on. Carpet Land came in at the cheapest for what we wanted. We had to cross-reference numbers since some stores like to make their own part numbers for the same stuff. I think it ran $2,500ish for my entire basement to include stairs and the stage.


----------



## NicksHitachi

I think it's already been covered but floor tiles at Lowes(granite) can be ordered in 12 or 16inch for about $10 per

Square foot in 100 ft quantities, I priced it for a backsplash. They have tuba, Baltic, or whatever common granite you want...... They are pretty flat edge so you wouldn't need a grout line just but them up......


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guess I'm rocking Carpetland...NFM is more expensive so is Kellys.


Probably going to go granite on the bar...I'm going to live down there! Tiles won't get the look I'm going for though I'll remember that for any future stuff...


----------



## yamahaSHO

I looked at NFM and Kelly's as well... Both were more expensive for the exact same stuff (even with a lesser pad than what I got with Carpet Land).


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19917124
> 
> 
> Any better alternatives? Its a Shaw varietal and decent quality....



I put 90oz Shaw carpet with upgraded pad in my theater and it's held up very well. It's been 5 years now and it still doesn't mat down and it feels great in bare feet.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

The last piece of the rack is in place....the HTPC.


Has XBMC and every program I need to put my blurays onto the HD.


It is a beast. Can watch a BD from the XBMC library while I'm ripping etc.


Anyways, love this thing.


Anyone else have a HTPC with XBMC? So seamless!


----------



## jim tressler

yep.. switched to xbmc a few months ago from mediaportal.. xmbc rocks - no problems with dxva hardware acceleration with the radeon 3450 video card.. how do you backup your blue rays? I use anydvdhd and then makemkv or just leave them in mts format and play them that way


----------



## yamahaSHO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19922639
> 
> 
> The last piece of the rack is in place....the HTPC.
> 
> 
> Has XBMC and every program I need to put my blurays onto the HD.
> 
> 
> It is a beast. Can watch a BD from the XBMC library while I'm ripping etc.
> 
> 
> Anyways, love this thing.
> 
> 
> Anyone else have a HTPC with XBMC? So seamless!



What are the computer specs?


On the 3 HTPC's I run, I just use Win7's MC.


----------



## HuskerOmaha












The rack, needs some adjustments but pretty solid. Cable HD box smaller than I thought it would be (above power conditioner). HTPC below the Onkyo. Too wide for the 2UV shelf but sits there...the side fans are hitting...have to get a different shelf eventually.











Taping up the trim...need to paint it all. Any suggestions? Probably an off white color...to satisfy wifey...or maybe I can convince her of something else?











Seats fit about like I thought they would...overhang a bit from the bar...but the space behind the far right one is a nice spot for someone to lean on the bar and hang....


EDIT: Have to paint trim AND doors. Fun. And I didn't buy a sponge for the poly so I'll be doing that later this week as well.


----------



## jim tressler

looking good!


----------



## Mike_WI

Nice!

You might need a tripod for the camera though.










Mike


----------



## desertdome




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim tressler* /forum/post/19922709
> 
> 
> yep.. switched to xbmc a few months ago from mediaportal.. xmbc rocks - no problems with dxva hardware acceleration with the radeon 3450 video card.. how do you backup your blue rays? I use anydvdhd and then makemkv or just leave them in mts format and play them that way



I back up mine using Another EAC3to GUI Plus . Since you already have AnyDVD HD and makemkv you should give it a try. Once I insert the Blu-ray, it is only 3 clicks until the movie is ripping. I like it because it is easy, I can convert any HD audio track to lossless multichannel FLAC, and it allows for subtitles to be placed within the image area. You can keep the original HD audio track instead.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/19925638
> 
> 
> Nice!
> 
> You might need a tripod for the camera though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


*Mike, yes the external flash is not doing me favors..I'll try better next time!
*


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yamahaSHO* /forum/post/19922803
> 
> 
> What are the computer specs?
> 
> *Let me know what else you want...but we are running a i5 intel core [email protected] ghz, 4 gb ram, 64 bit windows 7 (use this over xp any day), 4 TB HD. 2-2 TB drives...one partitioned for windows and BDs (215 bds..all but 2 that are 720p...I'll start using the 2nd partition soon, and the xbmc pulls from both so no biggie)*
> 
> 
> On the 3 HTPC's I run, I just use Win7's MC.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim tressler* /forum/post/19922709
> 
> 
> yep.. switched to xbmc a few months ago from mediaportal.. xmbc rocks - no problems with dxva hardware acceleration with the radeon 3450 video card.. how do you backup your blue rays? I use anydvdhd and then makemkv or just leave them in mts format and play them that way



Well, as far as I've played with it....Use anydvd for the initial, then I have ripbot264 for getting them into format, then I just move them around...PM me for the dloading websites I'm using....


xbmc is way better than imedian or imon or others...


Anyways..how about that snow storm?


----------



## desertdome

Doesn't Ripbot264 re-encode and compresses the video? Are you keeping the HD audio track? How long does it take? I prefer not to re-encode and compress my Blu-rays. It takes about 45 minutes with my 4x Blu-ray player to back them up. Those with faster drives can do it in under 20 minutes.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *desertdome* /forum/post/19930627
> 
> 
> Doesn't Ripbot264 re-encode and compresses the video? Are you keeping the HD audio track? How long does it take? I prefer not to re-encode and compress my Blu-rays. It takes about 45 minutes with my 4x Blu-ray player to back them up. Those with faster drives can do it in under 20 minutes.



My BD drive is a 10x LG. I think we are talking about different stuff though as well. PM.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Lots of bleeding today...


Paid 1/2 of the granite, 1/2 of the carpet, reserve for the custom bar stools, and the paint and poly stuff.


Put the first coat of miniwax semi-gloss on the bar.....not too bad...once it dries I'll either use the 0000 steel wool or fine grit sandpaper....I don't think I'll need it though..I just plan on doing 3-4 thin coats...


Bar stools should come in when the granite/carpet is getting done Feb 17-25.


I should be set for march madness...need to adjust screen as well...


These Berklines are awesome...very happy.


----------



## IndySSD

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
The last piece of the rack is in place....the HTPC.


Has XBMC and every program I need to put my blurays onto the HD.


It is a beast. Can watch a BD from the XBMC library while I'm ripping etc.


Anyways, love this thing.


Anyone else have a HTPC with XBMC? So seamless!
First let me say you've got a nice HT coming along there.


As far as suggestions for high WAF colors, I suggest a satin finish caramel color for the walls, it has a high WAF and reflects much less light than say a semi gloss "off white" like you were considering. I had it in the last house and went with a satin finish Blue/gray color on 3 walls, light gray on the TV wall in this house to mix up the colors a little bit and open up the space since it's a small house and the living room is my "Home Theater experience" room.


I'm curious what programs/steps you're using to rip your BD's into a playable format on your HTPC and how they play back.


Currently I have AnyDVDHD and PowerDVD9 that came with my BD drive and it sucks.


I'd also be interested in seeing some screenshots of what XBMC looks like and how it navigates if you've got time.


Thanks and good luck on finishing out the room.


-IndySSD


----------



## HuskerOmaha

In the next week/two as I finish the trim/bar work..I'll start honing my skills on xbmc....


Hopefully after the weekend I'll have screenshots...


----------



## jim tressler

Indy - Check out http://xbmc.org/ - they have a skin and screenshot section. For me, I rip the blu ray with anydvdhd and either leave it in the ropped structed and play the m2ts files directly via xbmc or I use makemkv to put a mkv container togehter.. either one plays directly in xbmc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *IndySSD* 
I'm curious what programs/steps you're using to rip your BD's into a playable format on your HTPC and how they play back.


Currently I have AnyDVDHD and PowerDVD9 that came with my BD drive and it sucks.


I'd also be interested in seeing some screenshots of what XBMC looks like and how it navigates if you've got time.


Thanks and good luck on finishing out the room.


-IndySSD


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I think you'll find the mkv files to be easier to use....but that is just my findings so far....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Need to get a sweet stainless bar sink.


Any suggestions? I have about 10 days to get one in before fabrication.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Wow, you have a nice rack!


(I just don't get to use that phrase as often as I'd like)


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Which sink design do you like best?


Round, Oval, Square, Oblong? Anyone have an idea for faucet design as well for good height to fit pitchers, etc under?


----------



## FlyingCheese

HuskerOmaha-

A bit off-topic, but I love the dog....we've got a GSD who's gonna turn two in March. They're a handful when they're young, but awesome dogs.


The basement looks awesome too! It's going to be a nice space when you're finished.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FlyingCheese* /forum/post/19940662
> 
> 
> HuskerOmaha-
> 
> A bit off-topic, but I love the dog....we've got a GSD who's gonna turn two in March. They're a handful when they're young, but awesome dogs.
> 
> 
> The basement looks awesome too! It's going to be a nice space when you're finished.



Yeah, Kaiser, our GSD is one handsome pup. He is a little over 3 and starting to settle down a bit (finally got him fixed a month ago)...


He is always on your heel, never wants to leave your side, always wants to go for a ride but anxious once he is in a car.


Anxiety levels on these dogs are high! He is fun though, and great with our son.


I'll have more pictures of him romping in the theater down the road..right now I just try keeping him out of paint and polyurethane!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Bar is getting close to being done....pictures soon.


Watched Percy and the Lighting Thief....solid LFE in that one.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Best way to paint doors? I'm using a foam brush for the trim and it is working well...but I'm thinking I'm either going to have to get a special roller or spray the doors?


Thoughts?


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19961394
> 
> 
> Best way to paint doors? I'm using a foam brush for the trim and it is working well...but I'm thinking I'm either going to have to get a special roller or spray the doors?
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



Best way?

Hire someone!

















Sorry.

I actually have done some painting myself in various homes, but dont' have an opinion.


Back to house prep for the game...


Mike


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I just used about a 2" brush - spraying would be the best if you don't want brush marks, but personally I don't mind them as long as they're uniform - adds a little old world charm. ;-)


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19962787
> 
> 
> I just used about a 2" brush - spraying would be the best if you don't want brush marks, but personally I don't mind them as long as they're uniform - adds a little old world charm. ;-)



Yeah. Doors suck. I tried to use a nylon, foam brushes, looks like junk.



I'm calling some paint guys to see what they would charge to come over with their spray equipment to do it this week. If the price isn't too bad I'm game. I'm only asking for labor and their equipment. Already primed.


Another problem...my HTPC video looks like 720p, but the cable feed looks bad unless they pan in on the players....turned the receiver to pass thru with no improvement. Huh.....


EDIT: I also put the screen on the frame for the game. It was awesome when one of the snaps for the screen material was bent, and then the screw/snap wouldn't come out and I burned out phillips screw with the snap. Great. The screen looks flat up but I'll have to figure that out later.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Update for those who are following still







-


The guy I had do the spray-on lacquering of the cabinets is coming over later this week to do my three doors and show me how to properly do casings and trim with filler/sanding/etc...


Charging me $60/door.


Totally worth the lack of pain and anguish over imperfect doors for me and the wife.


Pictures later.


----------



## W00lly

Hey Greg


I just purchased a onkyo receiver looks like yours. I have not really messed with it yet but was wondering if there was a setting to pass audio through the HDMI cables through the receiver to my HDMI splitter.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19966575
> 
> 
> Hey Greg
> 
> 
> I just purchased a onkyo receiver looks like yours. I have not really messed with it yet but was wondering if there was a setting to pass audio through the HDMI cables through the receiver to my HDMI splitter.



Scott,



Answered on your thread for now...


Guys-


I'm working on getting some 703 locally, but if I can't get it..best place online for a large shipment?


I thought I could use some now and save it sell it to others, etc.


I'm thinking of covering my screen wall, and putting a 45 degree angle trap along the front of my first soffit from the screen wall. covering this all with a dark fabric of course TBD.


Along with velvet curtains over window and one on the opposite wall those are my plans for now...


Anybody?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

ATS Acoustics' prices seemed not too bad when I checked before - not sure how much the shipping would be though. Bryan Pape I believe also will sell and ship, can PM him for prices.


----------



## White Noise

Great job so far! can't wait to see it completed.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19967689
> 
> 
> ATS Acoustics' prices seemed not too bad when I checked before - not sure how much the shipping would be though. Bryan Pape I believe also will sell and ship, can PM him for prices.



What is Pape's avsforum name?


What excel files/free programs could I get my hands on for planning and RT60 etc?


I think I can get some locally of the OC703...definitely enough for my needs.


Thanks guys-


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19973138
> 
> 
> What is Pape's avsforum name? -



His forum name is bpape.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/19973138
> 
> 
> I think I can get some locally of the OC703...definitely enough for my needs.



I bought Johns Manville Insul-shield from Lowe's (special order) http://jm.com/insulation/building_in...sul-shield.pdf and it's pretty much the same as OC703. They may even be able to order OC703 for you or check HD.


I covered my whole screen wall and all first reflection points with it. It comes in a large roll, 300SF I think. Then I covered all walls with acoustic transparent cloth. No bass traps needed in my room.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

What is the best way to mount the panels on walls/ceilings?


How to make them appear not like separate panels, but one unit?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 
What is the best way to mount the panels on walls/ceilings?


How to make them appear not like separate panels, but one unit?
Here's a thread that discusses various ways of mounting: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1312693 


To make them look like one unit - build all the fiberglass sheets into a single big frame and cover the whole thing with fabric?


Or just mount separate panels right next to each other, and don't bevel the edges of the frames (assuming you're putting the insulation into frames and covering with fabric - some people just cover the insulation, I think it would dent too easily and look bad pretty quickly).


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thanks Brad, looks like I need to build a frame. I wish it wasn't -degrees here.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I love when people ask me the following about my HT equipment:


What are those 2 things on the bottom (HTS 5100/ATS 2000)..


"Oh those are a power conditioner/voltage regulator".


"Hmmmph. Do you really need those?"


"Oh, probably not".


Repeat for questions on Emotiva amp.


----------



## LoudandClear

Another way to treat the screen wall without frames is to mount 1x2 furring strips directly to the wall. Then attach the insulation to the sheetrock with roofing nails with gaskets, then stretch & staple the cloth at the furring strips and then cover the staple points with small thin wood trim strips stained a dark color. It's more permanent than panels would be though. I have pics if you want to see the process or end result.


----------



## W00lly

You could also use fabricmate a bit more expensive but real easy to install. I had talked to the guy at fabricmate about custom printing on some fabric I thought it would be cool to have movie posters printed on fabric and make them into panels. But the cost was going to be way out there.


The track comes in 1" and 2" http://www.fabricmate.com/


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19982490
> 
> 
> You could also use fabricmate a bit more expensive but real easy to install. I had talked to the guy at fabricmate about custom printing on some fabric I thought it would be cool to have movie posters printed on fabric and make them into panels. But the cost was going to be way out there.
> 
> 
> The track comes in 1" and 2" http://www.fabricmate.com/


*Scott this looks easy and cool. If I can't find another way those tracks look easy to do.*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19982069
> 
> 
> Another way to treat the screen wall without frames is to mount 1x2 furring strips directly to the wall. Then attach the insulation to the sheetrock with roofing nails with gaskets, then stretch & staple the cloth at the furring strips and then cover the staple points with small thin wood trim strips stained a dark color. It's more permanent than panels would be though. *I have pics if you want to see the process or end result.*




My goal here is either to make it permanent (so that a future home buyer doesn't want to take it down/and my wife wouldn't either) or removable, for the exact same reasons. I need to not go overboard on treatments...I don't want my basement to morph into a listening room on accident and ruin my resale!


Mainly to keep the WAF going...needs to be subtle but work...so methods of making the whole screen wall one piece would be good, utilizing the furring strips and stretching the fabric will probably be a place I'll start to look at...


Mike, do you have a link to yours?


----------



## W00lly

If you just staple the track to the screen wall it would be easily pried off. I have seen a few guys use glue and staples but I didn't see the need when doing mine as the staples held well.


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Mainly to keep the WAF going...needs to be subtle but work...so methods of making the whole screen wall one piece would be good, utilizing the furring strips and stretching the fabric will probably be a place I'll start to look at...
> 
> 
> Mike, do you have a link to yours?



I don't have a webpage or build thread but I can upload them to photobucket tonight and provide a link or maybe make a folder on AVS.


I also invented some removable window plugs that you can't even tell are there when installed. They are acoustically treated as well since they were located at the first reflection points for my mains on one side of the room.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19982069
> 
> 
> Another way to treat the screen wall without frames is to mount 1x2 furring strips directly to the wall. Then attach the insulation to the sheetrock with roofing nails with gaskets, then stretch & staple the cloth at the furring strips and then cover the staple points with small thin wood trim strips stained a dark color. It's more permanent than panels would be though. I have pics if you want to see the process or end result.



That's almost exactly what I'm doing for behind my screen wall - except 2x2s for my furring strips (cheap, and keeps the fabric a little ways away from the fabric and roofing nails).


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/19983067
> 
> 
> If you just staple the track to the screen wall it would be easily pried off. I have seen a few guys use glue and staples but I didn't see the need when doing mine as the staples held well.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19985028
> 
> 
> I don't have a webpage or build thread but I can upload them to photobucket tonight and provide a link or maybe make a folder on AVS.
> 
> 
> I also invented some removable window plugs that you can't even tell are there when installed. They are acoustically treated as well since they were located at the first reflection points for my mains on one side of the room.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19985061
> 
> 
> That's almost exactly what I'm doing for behind my screen wall - except 2x2s for my furring strips (cheap, and keeps the fabric a little ways away from the fabric and roofing nails).



Thanks for the info. I don't know why I'm so befuddled by this step..it being so visible I just don't want to screw it up or make it look like a diy bad dream.


I'd like to save on money here as much as possible. (So I can try and get a calibrated 1080p projector, or another sub, or...)










I'm probably going to get the 703 this weekend, find a place to store it in the garage, and then start on designing the screen wall portion (after I finish painting the darn trim board).


Thanks guys...I'll start snooping for pictures of your stapling or furring strips.


----------



## LoudandClear

Here is a link that should take you to photobucket where I uploaded a few of my theater build pics. It starts with blank walls to finished theater only focusing on the front wall.

http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/o...view=slideshow 


Let me know if the link works.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19986951
> 
> 
> Here is a link that should take you to photobucket where I uploaded a few of my theater build pics. It starts with blank walls to finished theater only focusing on the front wall.
> 
> http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/o...view=slideshow
> 
> 
> Let me know if the link works.



Thanks for letting me visualize again. How many staples did you use? I should buy a staple gun I assume.


----------



## LoudandClear

Yes, you will need one. One box of staples will be enough for just the front wall. I put staples about every 1-2 inches but may require them closer depending on the cloth you use. Most important is to be sure your cloth is fire resistant! I Used a basic Arrow cheapie brand stapler from local HW store. I suggest getting staples as long as it will hold so they don't pull out. I think I used 1/2" or 9/16" and it's been up for over 5 yrs now.


Could you see the notes I wrote under each picture also?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/19988379
> 
> 
> Yes, you will need one. One box of staples will be enough for just the front wall. I put staples about every 1-2 inches but may require them closer depending on the cloth you use. Most important is to be sure your cloth is fire resistant! I Used a basic Arrow cheapie brand stapler from local HW store. I suggest getting staples as long as it will hold so they don't pull out. I think I used 1/2" or 9/16" and it's been up for over 5 yrs now.
> 
> 
> Could you see the notes I wrote under each picture also?



I should clarify. I own 2 staple guns but pretty sure I'll be borrowing my father-in-laws electric one for this project.


Where should I look for cloth?


Brad, I have forgotten that easy website you told me on the phone already!



Thanks guys! Gonna be 50 degrees here this weekend woot!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Oh, for some fabric options? http://www.rosebrand.com/ 


The ones I'm looking at are Commando Cloth and Duvetyn, which are generally used as stage blackout materials - they're fire retardant, yay:

http://www.rosebrand.com/subcategory...h-duvetyn.aspx 


There are couple other places I'm looking as well, might be able to get the same stuff a little cheaper.


----------



## LoudandClear

Another thing to be keep in mind when choosing a wall fabric for treatments is that it's not too heavy or dense and should be more Acoustically Transparent than not. Kind of like Speaker grill cloth. Something I read 6 yrs ago by Bpape said to get a sample and hold it up to a speaker to test it's AT properties, also to blow thru it to see how it passes air since soundwaves are air movement. The purpose is so soundwaves can pass thru the cloth and be absorbed by the fiberglass behind it, not bounce off or be redirected. Of course GOM is the most commonly used cloth but it's expensive. I used this http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.p...=253&group_id= in the 48" version. Of course the colors are different than what's seen on the website. My upper wall is more burgundy but the color swatch on the web looks very bright red. They list this as limited supply or discontinued but I called recently for a friend and they have thousands of yards.










Just another option for ya!










Got ya beat! Mid 70s here this weekend after only 15 deg Wed morning.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I've heard mixed messages on how acoustically transparent fabric needs to be in front of broadband traps.


The question was posed to Ethan Winer, and he responded:


"The only time you really need "acoustically transparent" is with speaker grill cloth in front of a tweeter. With an absorber panel, if the fabric absorbs a little more on its own, no harm is done. So what really matters is that the fabric doesn't reflect mids and highs."


Followup question: "So what's a good rule of thumb on determining if a fabric is reflective to mids and highs? Softer is better? Hard and shiny is bad?"


Ethan: "Yes, exactly."


I am doing the breath/blow test - the Duvetyn is blowable, but not as easily as GoM. About the same for lightweight Commando Cloth. Heavy weight Commando Cloth as harder to blow through, so probably not ideal (unless on a bass trap).


In front of speakers, and broadband absorption on the walls, I'll be more picky - but leaning more towards saving some coin behind the screen.


I just wish the FR speaker cloth that rosebrand carries was ASTM E-84 class A rated; it passes NFPA 701 small scale, but I don't think that will be sufficient for passing inspection (based on coversation with building department, who specified requirements in terms of flame and smoke spread indices - which the class A specifies, but NFPA 701 doesn't).


I am turning into a fire marshall.


----------



## NicksHitachi

Sounds like the only sure shot is for it to be AT..... It would be hard to measure the difference between reflection and absorption in the field.... Right?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

So, in addition to getting some 703 today and trying to prep my trim for painting I was going to mount my L/R.


Seems easy enough and these monoprice LCD mounts were suppose to be the way to go.


So either I'm a complete idiot and can't figure out how to get the speaker to stay level or these mounts suck and I'm out close to $100 for mounts and shipping total from monoprice for crap products.


So, 'lil help if you got any.


Since I just drilled holes in my speakers.




















Took the one below upside down on accident. That is the lock piece that is suppose to hold the speaker level (or TV up to 80 lbs!). Whatever.












Other side, tried using a hex head to tighten that one to see if that would help. Nope.











Plate on speaker.




















Yep, this will work for my R. Awesome. Seriously, what am I missing?












So yeah, I don't know what I'm missing. It looks like you could insert more hex bolts to try and keep it level. Should have just got a straight mount instead of trying to get cute with all the movement.


Maybe I'm just missing something.



EDIT: Did I just say missing 4 times? This tilt thing can't be that hard.


----------



## HuskerOmaha












How could that hold an 80 lb LCD vertical if you didn't want it tilted?











Jammed some bolts in those 4 holes to see if that would help.


It did, but still not vertical. Seemingly out of options.


Temper flaring.




















Guess I'll be back to buying $70 overpriced SANUS mounts because I know they aren't crap.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Forgot to post my door at the top of the stairs problem/solution.


Measured out for the door early in the process, my grandparents had a dutch door going to their basement and I always liked the functionality.


Well, after I got my custom door in that I couldn't return, realized that my ceiling slopes toward the basement because there is a flight of stairs above it.


Woops.


Had a guy that does woodwork consulted, we decided to just table saw the top door down the middle and throw some hinges in it.


I still need to go buy aluminum or whatever hinges to match the other doors for it down the road when we get hardware for them all, but here are the pictures of how I plan on using it.


Leaving top open most of the time, and bottom closed. Will install a latch that holds the top part to the bottom door when needed.





























The Shepherd might as well be renamed "trailer".


----------



## HuskerOmaha












How would you transition from 1" OC703 if I cover the entire screen wall with that...down to the trim?


Have to rip it off?


What are some options if I don't want to take the trim off?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Okay, maybe this will work ...

http://www.fabricmatestore.com/c-91-...nel-track.aspx 



I could use that to hold panels up for the bass trap...as well as put around the edge of the screen wall.


Now how to work the electric panel in...


----------



## LoudandClear

I vote to remove the baseboard, trim, all outlet plates and remount after you put your cloth in place. If you attempt to taper it from 1 or 2 inches down to the baseboard it will make the cloth wall look like an after thought. With your electrical panel I see two choices.


1: Remove the wood cover and then you will be able to do the 1 inch spacers with the acoustic insulation over the panel.


2: Install your screen wall with 2 inch spacer strips instead of 1 inch and keep the doors.


Either way I would make a removable (slide in/out) acoustic panel over the electrical panel and have the 1 inch insulation in front of it as well to keep the acoustic balance. The removable panel will slide in & out and the lines will barely be visible especially if you use dark cloth. WAF??? If you make it a snug fit and use felt on the surface where it slides in, no mounting hardware will be needed. Same thing I did to blank out the 3 windows on the side of my theater.


No matter what you do I think you will also have to remove the speaker mounts and put a 1 or 2 inch spacer behind them so they mount on top of the cloth. Again to make everyting look like it was done after the wall cloth, not the cloth put up afterwards.


The basement door looks great too!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Mike,


I'm going to probably go with most of the stuff you said...but I bought the 703 from a guy here (andersa) and his theater he did the 1" after his trim was up and the finish actually looks good with the fabricmate...so not sure what I'll do...since I'll only do 1" on screen wall...


Sanded all the nail holes in trim tonight...kind of a pain.


Watched Star Trek. The black hole, warp, and nero firing torpedo scenes gave my 18's a workout. I don't think I'll need another sub.


AWESOME.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I think the problem with the articulating mounts is that when they're holding up a TV, the weight is 2-4" from the mounting plate, but with the speaker, much of the weight is out almost 10" - think like a lever.


Did you try lock washers?


For the trim - are you going with the furring strips around your rigid insulation? I would remove the baseboard, put a wide furring strip at the bottom, put on the fabric, and then replace the baseboard.


Man I need a BD player - and a copy of Star Trek - and a projector and screen...


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20001155
> 
> 
> I think the problem with the articulating mounts is that when they're holding up a TV, the weight is 2-4" from the mounting plate, but with the speaker, much of the weight is out almost 10" - think like a lever.
> 
> 
> Did you try lock washers?
> 
> 
> For the trim - are you going with the furring strips around your rigid insulation? I would remove the baseboard, put a wide furring strip at the bottom, put on the fabric, and then replace the baseboard.
> 
> 
> Man I need a BD player - and a copy of Star Trek - and a projector and screen...



Yeah, I swapped out washers as well.


I give up. I'll use 2 for heights and maybe for a TV I'll mount on the side wall down the road.


I should have just listened to desertdome and bought the SANUS mounts first!


I'll end up doubling my expenditures on mounts.


Ordering 2 more SANUS today!



Yeah, 2 CS 18.1's dominated Star Trek. Probably the most they've opened up to date, and I had just rerun Audyssey...since I probably have 100 hours on the speakers by now.....maybe closer to 80...


Can't wait to watch some more...especially with treatments down the road...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

For any of you interested in CHT products or looking at full-range speakers, a new product offering is happening at CHT.


And I have the prototypes!


Boo yah!


Anyways, I'll get some pictures up and a review in the next week.


They are cool looking things...full range 6" speakers....nice cabinet and the newer CHT black finish.


They are a few db less output than the SHO-10 obviously, but for stereo have some good characteristics and would be GREAT rear surrounds and in a smaller HT an adequate front soundstage.


----------



## NicksHitachi

Did somebody in here just say boo yah!?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Granite guys came over and I should have install next week. They are missing their install date (2/17) so I'm going to try and get some money off.


Bought the faucet today...wanted a kitchen one since the true bar types are limited...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_5365-72981-1...-%20$200|Delta 


I also used my Droid X and used ShopSavvy app, took a picture of the barcode, and got $30 off list since Amazon had a deal on them.


BOO YAH



For any locals interested, a couple guys are coming over tomorrow afternoon to check out the setup and test the SHO-6 prototypes against the SHO-10s.


----------



## fewychewy

damn you greg and your toys! (color me jealous) you have a functional basement yet?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Had a couple guys over and had the SHO-10 and SHO-6 lined up in 2 channel and regular listening modes.


The SHO-6 prototypes competed well. Look great.


Pictures when I can get some up.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Wish i could have made it, glad the 6s are working out


----------



## tesseract67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20033021
> 
> 
> Had a couple guys over and had the SHO-10 and SHO-6 lined up in 2 channel and regular listening modes.
> 
> 
> The SHO-6 prototypes competed well. Look great.
> 
> 
> Pictures when I can get some up.



Thanks for having me over today, HuskerOmaha. Your project looks like a lot of fun (and work), it is coming together nicely.


The SHO-10/18.T combo kicks some serious butt. I cannot imagine spending less and getting more.


What really intrigued me was the SHO-6. It blends well with the SHO-10 and sounded great on it's own.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tesseract67* /forum/post/20034198
> 
> 
> Thanks for having me over today, HuskerOmaha. Your project looks like a lot of fun (and work), it is coming together nicely.
> 
> 
> The SHO-10/18.T combo kicks some serious butt. I cannot imagine spending less and getting more.
> 
> 
> What really intrigued me was the SHO-6. It blends well with the SHO-10 and sounded great on it's own.



After I got home, my family and I watched Grown Ups and after they went to bed I watched The American.


The Sho 6 speaker performed well as a L/R in 5.1....I only noticed a little less sound on some action scenes but they sounded great!


Thanks for coming over! Desertdome's 2 channel setup is sick. NOW I get why people have listening rooms....I'm just not into music as much as the movie experience at this time...but wow.


And his MFW Turbo really impressed....


----------



## tesseract67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20034880
> 
> 
> After I got home, my family and I watched Grown Ups and after they went to bed I watched The American.
> 
> 
> The Sho 6 speaker performed well as a L/R in 5.1....I only noticed a little less sound on some action scenes but they sounded great!
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming over! Desertdome's 2 channel setup is sick. NOW I get why people have listening rooms....I'm just not into music as much as the movie experience at this time...but wow.
> 
> 
> And his MFW Turbo really impressed....



The SHO-6 is no match for the SHO-10, but it really is a very enjoyable speaker in it's own right. I think people are going to be very surprised, I know I was.


Desertdome's system is very impressive, to think he is going to add another MFW-15 Turbo or two... whew!


Finish your room and we can get you dialed in the same way, HuskerOmaha. Your room is going to be a lot of fun for movies and music.


EDIT: Watching movies? You're not supposed to be watching movies yet!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'll post some more SHO-6 pictures later...if you can't wait go check out the thread on the CHT forums....


Finally have some dates set in stone....


WED 23rd.....Granite Counters being installed....


FRI 25th......Doors should be returned painted.....


SAT/SUN 26/27th......Will paint trim and finish wall touch-up paint.....


MON 28th........Carpet will be installed.....



I'm also picking up my father-in-laws table saw and sanders (and maybe Forstner bits if he has them) to build these speaker stands...(wife also wants some toy shelves built).....

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html 


I'm tired of screwing with these crappy monoprice mounts meant for LCDs that cannot hold my speakers level...Plus people have sold me on the better acoustic properties of utilizing speaker stands...


(So I have 10 speaker/LCD mounts...any takers?....)




Things to do after this...


Locate and order/install shower door.....


Locate and install bathroom mirror.....


Install bathroom light fixture/buy a different one if it doesn't work with future mirror.....


Draw up a plan for acoustic treatments....bass traps in front corners and 1" 703 on wall.....


Draw up designs for velvet curtains on side walls....


Debate/design ideas for light/sound control on ceiling.....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Had time to get out and buy what I need for the stands...probably start on them tomorrow.....


----------



## LoudandClear

One thing to consider since you are putting cloth on front wall is installing an infrared eye up front below the screen somewhere. That way it will look integrated and be able to control your equipment without having to point the remotes to the left. Also it will make dimming the lights much easier. I programmed multi step dimming into my Harmony One so when I choose an activity it automatically brings down the lights. It's a nice feature that always impresses visitors.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I didn't do a graphic eye just have lutron dimmers...so I don't think I can do that right?


I will be installing an infrared on the wall though like you are suggesting...just haven't found which one I want....probably the Harmony One Remote though...we will see!


Yeah, so I got mad and just decided to go with the cove bit, which I'm sure is harder to get to go against the grain










Progress so far....


Well I made 2 mistakes so far but I won't repeat them on my top pieces of oak...


I've only used a table router before not a hand held one...so I just drew a pencil mark as a guide instead of using another piece of wood to clamp on top of the oak pieces to serve as a guide. I also routered one edge of the wrong side but I can just put that towards the screen wall and they are on the dark carpet..so whatever....




















I call these woops1 and woops2.



















Those Forstner bits are awesome. That part







was cake.


Pick up here tomorrow and do the tops the right way with the router...


Don't make too much fun...novice woodworker here....


Once sanded down and stained/poly'd I'm sure those edges won't look as bad as they do now!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Wait, are you using router bits that have the bearing on the end? If so, you shouldn't need a guide, you just follow the edge of the wood with the bearing.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Nope, doesn't have the bearing...my dad in law has a table with guides/etc but it was in his shop with his table saw and he was leaving for the week so I just grabbed this.


I'll throw a piece of wood on top of the two upper pieces for the stands to act as a better guide so I don't go too deep when going against the grain.


They don't look too terrible but I definitely can do better....


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Ah that sucks, the bearing ones make things much easier, no need for a guide, since the piece you're working on is the guide.


Edit: I used these - http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...:referralID=NA - cheap, and work pretty good (except the bearing for the flush trim bit fell off after a lot of use).


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I think I may go grab another 12" x 24" piece for the bases and redo them.


I might accidentally buy my own router and bit set with bearings too.










Or maybe a router table, but I'm not sure if I have room for one....or do I!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Any suggestions on brands to look at for router stuff?


----------



## jnnt29

You have done a great job. I would look at Porter Cable router they make an excellent one.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I forgot I had to give a check to the granite guys, so I decided not to drop $300 on router supplies.










I just used another piece as a straight edge...I bet I got it to almost what a table would give me....


I took Brad's advice, but instead of shearing off a 1/2" with a circular saw and redoing it, I just made them deeper.










I actually like the look. The bottom bases will be deeper coved out or whatever and the tops only 1/2".


Crappy one on top, good one on bottom....











Apparently one of my 8x12s was on the wrong side when I drilled the holes...but I guess a speaker will be sitting on that rougher patch so whatever...











I still need to sand these tomorrow, but they are looking good so far....and I had to stop for the GRANITE DELIVERY.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'm freaking excited.


Counters really change the look of the room..kind of the feeling I got when the drywall went up.


The only thing that apparently didn't get communicated was for the granite slab for the wetbar area to have the 45 degree edge following the lower cabinets. It doesn't look bad, and if my wife doesn't care I won't make a stink about it. If she does care, I guess someone is coming in with a diamond bladed skillsaw and fixing it!


The Uba Tuba turned out great. I'm glad I didn't spend the extra money, I'm happy with "cheap".











That white caulk dries clear...











I think the bar looks more expensive than the $100 in materials.....











I think we will be happy with the 16x20" sink and the larger kitchen faucet/soap dispenser as well....almost went with a 12x16 sink...


----------



## Mike_WI

Nice!

Congrats!


Carpet also changes the look of a room!










Mike


----------



## huskerfan62

Looking REALLY good.


----------



## desertdome

Thanks for the kind words about my system.


Your granite looks very nice. I'm looking forward to coming over again soon and seeing the carpet, granite, etc. Do you think we can do some final EQing this next week?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Carpet install is Monday.....28th.


We should be able to do some EQ Tuesday or that weekend?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Actually I could try and get the OC 703 put up (with advice from Brad on strategy) and then we could EQ. I just wouldnt have the fabricmate or cover fabric yet....


Here is what I need help with...should I do a bass trap on the side? Is there enough room to make a decent one? worth it?




















Measurement is 11.25" from corner to panel hole. I could overhang a panel into the hole on the wall a bit if I needed to and make a friction fit panel to place in there so it can be removed? Maybe easier than fabricmating around it?


----------



## LoudandClear

As far as bass traps go, first we need to know the planned arrangement of speakers and subs. Are you planning to put the subs somewhere besides where they are currently sitting? Since you are making stands for your SHO10 speakers, I'm assuming they will go where the subs are. In current arrangement you could make a floor/wall corner trap under the screen but I'd wait until the carpet is in to see if you need any traps.


As far as the panel goes I would attach the OC703 to the back of your removable (slide in friction) panel. You could also place another sheet inside the panel or just in the deeper voids.


As long as the OC703 is on the wall you can re-EQ since the fabric itself has very little effect on the low freqs.


If there was a way to move the screen up about 3 inches you could co-locate the subs near the center and put nice corner traps on the front verticle walls.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/20066130
> 
> 
> As far as bass traps go, first we need to know the planned arrangement of speakers and subs. Are you planning to put the subs somewhere besides where they are currently sitting? Since you are making stands for your SHO10 speakers, I'm assuming they will go where the subs are. In current arrangement you could make a floor/wall corner trap under the screen but I'd wait until the carpet is in to see if you need any traps.
> 
> 
> As far as the panel goes I would attach the OC703 to the back of your removable (slide in friction) panel. You could also place another sheet inside the panel or just in the deeper voids.
> 
> 
> As long as the OC703 is on the wall you can re-EQ since the fabric itself has very little effect on the low freqs.
> 
> 
> If there was a way to move the screen up about 3 inches you could co-locate the subs near the center and put nice corner traps on the front verticle walls.



Thanks for the info. I just PM'd a few people before I saw your reply...


I plan on moving the screen up around 3 inches (as high as I can go so that the center clears the screen and the subs can slide under the screen....)...


That will let us EQ better as well as a little better for the viewers. I find myself not being able to totally recline my head back while watching where the screen height is now. From the bar seating it is fine....


I don't think there is enough practical room on the left by the AV rack for a trap...but a vertical one made out of the 2" 703 could work on the right..I figure I need about a 12x12 corner and then I could get 4 triangles out of every sheet, right? (2x4' sheets). These could go vertically up the right corner/floor/ceiling junction. It is almost 12" to the panel hole. Then again, if we need it?


I figure for the electrical panel I could use 2-3" of OC703 and just wrap it with fabric. That should sit in there nicely.


I'm nervous to start this step, don't want to screw it up.


Barstools are in and put together, pictures later.


----------



## HuskerOmaha






























The chairs end up working well with the room.....


----------



## Mike_WI

Greg -


I think raising the screen would be good.

I forgot, do you have a door or other cover for the rack?

I just wonder about the gear lights shining on your screen.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/20071036
> 
> 
> Greg -
> 
> 
> I think raising the screen would be good.
> 
> I forgot, do you have a door or other cover for the rack?
> 
> I just wonder about the gear lights shining on your screen.
> 
> 
> Mike



Yeah, it needs to go up a couple inches, I'll do that when I take off the electric panel frame and flip the center..


I'm getting a smoked glass door, hopefully that works out well...if noise or any lights are peaking out, I'm going to put a line of weatherstripping on the inside of the glass attached to the walls of rack area to stop that as well..and seal it...


Then I can work on the back...?


----------



## nebrunner

Carpet day! Who is installing?


If you still have the contact info for your drywaller please PM it over to me.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Carpetland...tomorrow though! My trim finally got painted tonight..not my best effort but it will work....


Bought mirror/toilet seat/light fixture for bathroom..


Got sink and faucet in granite.....


I need to work on the speaker stands tomorrow...suppose to be 50 so I'll try and stain the bases and spray the pvc....


PM sent....he did a helluva job and the price was awesome.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Carpet in!


I had them do the round over on the stairs, or whatever fancy words they were calling it.


I think it looks better than not doing it.











The carpet is a bit darker than it looks...Painted, by Shaw.


I got the best pad (10 lb or better?) feels pretty good.











I raised the screen and inverted the center as well....I think it looks tons better...we will see if the sound improves....











Carpet looks good...kid likes it...seamless into the tile....











Inverted center/Screen 4.5 inches higher....











Got the sink and faucet in.....went with a 16x20in sink (16 ga stainless) and a Delta Magna (pull out faucet magnet connect) with soap dispenser....











Hung the mirror and a light fixture....(all oil rubbed bronze color)




















Hope that is bright enough for the wife! (she didn't like only the 1 can in the shower and the fan light...geez!)



Getting there! Now to attack the screen wall and finish the speaker stands....got them painted and stained/polyd today...was 60+ out here in Nebraska!


----------



## andersa

Wow, looks great Greg!


----------



## jnnt29

this is looking great! Can't wait to see it finished!


----------



## avsnoob10

Quote:

Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* 








Husker: I've followed your thread silently for some time, but this picture made me break the silence. My 2 year old just last week destroyed my Panasonic DECT 6.0 handset at and when I realized, my kid was standing and watching exactly the same way as your kid in this picture. Anyway, first congratulations! you have done an outstanding job and your carpet, granite counter top, wall colors and cabinet stain matches perfectly.


----------



## LoudandClear

Looking real good!


I just bought & installed that exact same faucet in my main kitchen this past weekend. Good Choice










With that carpet and pad in you will find the room sound will be a lot more precise. (Less echo/reflections) Will the subs fit under the screen now?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Guys, thanks for the comments.


Yeah, my 20 month old keeps me busy. In the last week he has really taken to doing whatever, instead of asking permission.


Oh well! He is a good kid.



Things I need to do next...


Put 1/4 round under the granite counter

Hang Ceiling Fan when it comes in

Buy doorknobs/install

Tape, paint walls up to cabinets/white trim

Finish speaker stands

Rerun Audyssey

Redo Projector Calibration


By the way, my bulb has like 1700 hours on it.


Time for a new one? Or wait until it burns out and justify buying a Panasonic or JVC?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/20085161
> 
> 
> Looking real good!
> 
> 
> I just bought & installed that exact same faucet in my main kitchen this past weekend. Good Choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that carpet and pad in you will find the room sound will be a lot more precise. (Less echo/reflections) Will the subs fit under the screen now?




Yeah it was either that faucet or the Moen one that doesn't leave spots.

I'd rather have the magnet lock thing. Now I need one in our real kitchen!


Are you proud of me flipping the center and raising the screen. The screen is perfect now, I can recline the chairs all the way and feel like I'm looking dead center.


And yep, subs clear the frame of the screen...now we can do a real Eq, right?


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20085286
> 
> 
> Yeah it was either that faucet or the Moen one that doesn't leave spots.
> 
> I'd rather have the magnet lock thing. Now I need one in our real kitchen!?



The old faucet in my kitchen that we replaced was the same style and we hated it because the pullout part was always hanging about an inch down from the main shaft no matter what I did with the counter weight. The magnet mechanism is a great idea.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20085286
> 
> 
> Are you proud of me flipping the center and raising the screen. The screen is perfect now, I can recline the chairs all the way and feel like I'm looking dead center.
> 
> 
> And yep, subs clear the frame of the screen...now we can do a real Eq, right?



I've been just waiting quietly for you to realize that.







If possible you might even consider moving your center channel to the bottom to have it aligned closer to the front mains.














Don't hit me!


So tell us "how do you like having heights up front vs turning them off"? Is there anything special about the audio material that is channeled through them? What does it do different to the sound? I'm looking to replace my Pre/Pro and the Marantz AV7005 doesn't support heights of you use 4 surrounds which I do currently have.


This new Epson projector is a steal with a street price of only $1300 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...inema_8350.htm and it may have less of a minimum lens shift which would allow you to move your screen even higher.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/20087668
> 
> 
> The old faucet in my kitchen that we replaced was the same style and we hated it because the pullout part was always hanging about an inch down from the main shaft no matter what I did with the counter weight. The magnet mechanism is a great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been just waiting quietly for you to realize that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If possible you might even consider moving your center channel to the bottom to have it aligned closer to the front mains.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't hit me!
> 
> 
> So tell us "how do you like having heights up front vs turning them off"? Is there anything special about the audio material that is channeled through them? What does it do different to the sound? I'm looking to replace my Pre/Pro and the Marantz AV7005 doesn't support heights of you use 4 surrounds which I do currently have.
> 
> 
> This new Epson projector is a steal with a street price of only $1300 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...inema_8350.htm and it may have less of a minimum lens shift which would allow you to move your screen even higher.



That Epson projector would blow mine out of the water. So here is the question....I'm waiting until probably either my bulb goes out or right before college football starts.


Do I...get something like that, new, retails low?


Or get a JVC/Panasonic big boy that is 2 years old and is now down to 2k from 12k?



You and Jethro over at CHT....I 'could' move my center down, but not sure if I want to do that yet. I guess I would have to decide before I put up the OC 703 and fabric, because after that I will NOT be changing the screen wall any more! I think the bar seating would be hampered with hearing the center channel more than they do now, but maybe I'm making stuff up.


After I get my stands up...my waveguide for my center being high vs being 8 inches off the ground....being up high is only 14 inches or so more from the mains than low profile would be......


As far as heights: Some receivers ARE quirky in if you have heights on you can't have rear surrounds and stuff like that...the newer ones are better.


I feel like the heights give you a more...Visceral sound. That is the best word. More in your face action. Things like footsteps in master and commander on the floor above in the ship, rain in any format, overhead planes/action above you, and even live football games with fan response.


Things like that seem to come more from your ceiling than the L/R when I am running 5.1.


I've only messed with it on a few movies. I guess Audyssey matrixes out to the heights for any sounds like I mentioned above the best I can guess.


I do like them though. Seems to add a bit. Audyssey says to do wides first, but many people on here and at bluray forum prefer heights.


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20090917
> 
> 
> That Epson projector would blow mine out of the water. So here is the question....I'm waiting until probably either my bulb goes out or right before college football starts.
> 
> 
> Do I...get something like that, new, retails low?
> 
> 
> Or get a JVC/Panasonic big boy that is 2 years old and is now down to 2k from 12k?




I'm all for buying used and that's a decision only you can make but you could be inheriting someone elses problem and have them claim it was messed up in shipping. Projectors are very sensitive devices and can get the alignment messed up or bulb damaged in transit. Plus no warranty. But, 80% of my theater equipment was bought used. Projector was something I bought new.


With your tight mounting requirements it will depend on which ones will work for your room setup. I mentioned that one because it has an exceptionally large zoom and lens shift. I couldn't find what the Verticle offset was in the literature but if it's smaller than your current one you could even move the screen up a little more if desired.


I don't know which JVC or Panny you are referring to as a $12K price and available at $2K now but to drop that much in price it has to be old technology. Projectors are making huge advancements in features and quality each year and prices are constantly dropping for the same quality.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* 
I'm all for buying used and that's a decision only you can make but you could be inheriting someone elses problem and have them claim it was messed up in shipping. Projectors are very sensitive devices and can get the alignment messed up or bulb damaged in transit. Plus no warranty. But, 80% of my theater equipment was bought used. Projector was something I bought new.


With your tight mounting requirements it will depend on which ones will work for your room setup. I mentioned that one because it has an exceptionally large zoom and lens shift. I couldn't find what the Verticle offset was in the literature but if it's smaller than your current one you could even move the screen up a little more if desired.


I don't know which JVC or Panny you are referring to as a $12K price and available at $2K now but to drop that much in price it has to be old technology. Projectors are making huge advancements in features and quality each year and prices are constantly dropping for the same quality.


I could swing a new one come fall. Good points on used, and like you other than my speakers/subs, my stuff is all B stock or used...and it works fine!


Now I kind of want to add a SubM HP to my 18.T subs....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sorry for the large pictures, but I guess figuring out how to manage my attachments now wouldn't matter!










Got my speaker stands done...almost.


Just need to find the bumpers for under the SHO-10s....






































They look nice. I could have done better on the paint, but I thought the routering and stain/poly looks like a million bucks. I wish the wood 







onder:was better quality...


----------



## LoudandClear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20098923
> 
> 
> I could swing a new one come fall. Good points on used, and like you other than my speakers/subs, my stuff is all B stock or used...and it works fine!
> 
> 
> Now I kind of want to add a SubM HP to my 18.T subs....



Stands look real professional! Great progress. You must work on your HT stuff every minute you have away from your normal job.


Are you saying you want to add a Seaton Submersive to your 18.T setup? My god that would knock the house down







Now that you have more room under your screen, have you tried to move the current subs out of the corners and closer to the center of the screen with about 3-4 ft between them and then re-EQ? You should have plenty of boom with your setup. BTW, what is the cubic SF volume of your area you are trying to pressurize?


Something else that a friend did for his downfiring Outlaw subs was to get a granite slab made to sit under the sub. They made it out of remnants and polished the edges. He claims it increased the LF output and tightened the sound of his subs. It would be cool if it matched your counters. UbbaTuba right?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/20100823
> 
> 
> Stands look real professional! Great progress. You must work on your HT stuff every minute you have away from your normal job.
> 
> 
> Are you saying you want to add a Seaton Submersive to your 18.T setup? My god that would knock the house down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that you have more room under your screen, have you tried to move the current subs out of the corners and closer to the center of the screen with about 3-4 ft between them and then re-EQ? You should have plenty of boom with your setup. BTW, what is the cubic SF volume of your area you are trying to pressurize?
> 
> 
> Something else that a friend did for his downfiring Outlaw subs was to get a granite slab made to sit under the sub. They made it out of remnants and polished the edges. He claims it increased the LF output and tightened the sound of his subs. It would be cool if it matched your counters. UbbaTuba right?




Now if my wife reads this and she sees people on here ALSO think all I do is work on the HT when I'm not at work, I might get in trouble. I have been down there a lot lately trying to do the little things.


I've always been interested in a Seaton SubM HP, but I wanted 2 subs and it wasn't practical to drop north of $2k on one sub this early while paying for the basement as I got paid from work. But, since we are done, it might be easier to do that later. I probably wont "need" one once some friends help me EQ the 2 I have in, but I always have wondered about them since everyone likes to compare their subs to SubM as the benchmark, you know?


The cubic feet of the basement taking in account all of the nooks/dimensions is about 4000 cubic feet. I'm also planning on moving the subs out to be almost lateral with the LP (front row of seats). One on each center wall. That is "best" according to many diagrams. Will see what it sounds like then...


That remnant idea is interesting and wouldnt be that bad. You could probably polish your own edges even... is there any other thoughts on throwing a slab under each out there? Would look intersting...probably would have to be with the newer CS-18.T enclosures I'll get....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Fan up. 32" from Delmar Designs I believe.


Seating configured.


Popcorn machine and kid's train set brought down.


Things moving along!


Pictures showing the full extension drawers, dual trash, soft shut deally for the cabinet doors (Gray nub next to hinge).


Will probably get door and bathroom accessories ordered today.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Wheres the best place to buy a few BD burnables?


What do I look for?


Going to try and burn some BluRays (scubasteve demo) from my HTPC...


----------



## roadster-s

It will be interesting to see how many rattles you'll need to tame in the back there







I know for sure my sub (or many alike) would totally throw your bottles right off their shelf!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roadster-s* /forum/post/20131022
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see how many rattles you'll need to tame in the back there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know for sure my sub (or many alike) would totally throw your bottles right off their shelf!



Yeah...you know so far I haven't noticed much. Is that because the bar interferes? Maybe they sit in a null? Who knows!


I'll keep that in mind...and back my wife's special Absynth off the front there!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Hey guys, might do a sub testing GTG in a few months...


So far will most likely have a couple Captivators there, a couple MFW-15 Turbos, a few CHT SS-18.1s, probably a VS-18.1 from CHT as well....


eD might be able to come over with a A7450 and A7s650....


Anyone else in Omaha, Lincoln, driving distance that has a sub that would like to participate?



Thinking of doing closed mic, GP, and just some fun listening as well!



Open invitation...


----------



## HuskerOmaha







































Desertdome came over and we did some EQn for a few hours yesterday and hooked up the DCX2496. It ended up using 5 filters to EQ the subs in the room. We put the subs (single, then dual) in about 10 different locations to find the best response, which ended up being the front center of the room. Luckily that also looks pretty good-I was hoping they would be best either there or on the middle side walls....


Graphs from REW later!


----------



## nebrunner

I've only got a non-turboed MFW-15, I would love to hear the turbo version, please include me in the PM list when you get a date figured out. Please not May 5-7th!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nebrunner* 
I've only got a non-turboed MFW-15, I would love to hear the turbo version, please include me in the PM list when you get a date figured out. Please not May 5-7th!
Getting married?


The turbo version sounds pretty solid when running hot.


I'm thinking it would probably be around June-ish.


----------



## W00lly

Looking good










I have been working pretty hard since you guys stopped by. I'm just about ready to hang some drywall.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/20162144
> 
> 
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working pretty hard since you guys stopped by. I'm just about ready to hang some drywall.



You are going to have a sweet space down there when you are done.


I still wish I would have stopped over there before to see a proper AT config..I would have totally changed what I was doing...would have gone with AT and an infinite baffle system!


----------



## nezff

just a thought. Around your bar, you could have ordered some oak raised panel doors to match your existing ones, and tack them around the bar butting them up together and leaving a small gap on the ends and corners. I did this on my kitchen island.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nezff* /forum/post/20163796
> 
> 
> just a thought. Around your bar, you could have ordered some oak raised panel doors to match your existing ones, and tack them around the bar butting them up together and leaving a small gap on the ends and corners. I did this on my kitchen island.



I never thought about that. Not a bad idea but having them custom built like my cabinets (heights are off) would have not been cheap. Would have been easier to finish out though.


I still need to add a piece of quarter round to the underside of the joint of the granite counter and wood.


----------



## W00lly

You can do that in theater 2.0


----------



## W00lly

Greg


Have you tried out your Popcorn machine yet ? I was wondering how long the Popcorn smell lingers after you cook a batch. I was going to do a range vent hood for mine but am having second thoughts as I could funnel that cash toward something else.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

A range hood would probably cost as much or more than the popper too! Those suckers ain't cheap.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/20191071
> 
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> Have you tried out your Popcorn machine yet ? I was wondering how long the Popcorn smell lingers after you cook a batch. I was going to do a range vent hood for mine but am having second thoughts as I could funnel that cash toward something else.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20191224
> 
> 
> A range hood would probably cost as much or more than the popper too! Those suckers ain't cheap.




I've done about 7 runs on the popcorn machine. That thing is slick. I originally was going to get a 2oz? one from Cabelas here for $50. Good deal, but with a 6oz kettle and having the base for storage is nice. Thought I'm not sure for 10-fold more than the Cabelas special. Does look really nice though!


The smell doesn't really linger..as in the next day when I go downstairs I don't notice it...at all. And my basement is about 1/3 the size of your's Scott. I think you'll be fine. I do wipe it down the next day though each time-we will see how long I keep doing that.









I do still notice the new carpet smell..love it.



On another subject, I'm debating whether or not to have the granite guys come back and shave off the edge of the counter (scheduled for thursday). I don't really think it is that big of a deal and do not want a big ass mess. I'm going to tent off the area with ply floor to ceiling if I do go with it.


I'll put up pictures to see what you guys think tonight or tomorrow AM.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Posted in a larger subforum but thought I'd ask you guys since you know my project...


Guys,


I am pretty much complete with my basement/theater but I have a call out to my granite counter people to come back tomorrow afternoon and fix this.


But, lately a few people have said they would leave it and not go to the hassle of fixing it...


What do you think? (If they come I'm planning on taping off a tent for it all, I hate that dust mess...even with a wetsaw).


This corner on the counter was suppose to be a 45 degree cut like the cabinet below it....


Would you have them fix this? (no charge)






























And a wide view to see....


----------



## ddgtr

If you had told them to and they missed it, then yes, I would have them do it because a) would look better and b) there is going to be one less sharp corner to bump your hip into (when you go for that drink in the dark right before the movie starts).


Otherwise I would pay them to do it...


Make sure they run a powerful shop vac to catch most of the dust when they initially cut it. After that there won't be a lot of dust if they do it properly.


Room looks good!!


----------



## jnnt29

The room looks great, as for the counter, if your requirement was to have it at an angle and it is no cost, I would get it corrected. You worked hard on this project and it should be the way you wanted. It doesn't look bad by any means, but it may bother you more that it wasn't the way you wanted. That's my thought on it. JT


----------



## DaGamePimp

Nice Work!


Jason


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaGamePimp* /forum/post/20209804
> 
> 
> Nice Work!
> 
> 
> Jason



Thanks Jason, and add me to your friends list on xbox (I saw you are a Gears fan?) *pillpusherx*



I calibrated the Optoma HD72 projector yesterday...okay I didn't calibrate it but I applied settings that a few of the reviews from 2007 had used and from some threads on here that really sharpened up the image and increased the blacks well.


I'm just starting to delve into the video side after spending so much time on the audio. I really want a new projector by this fall so watching to see if AVS gets anymore B stock Sonys in...


Settings applied:


HD72 in cinema mode

Degamma-Film

BC-1

TV-0

CT-1

Brightness and contrast-0

Color +7

Tint-0

Sharpness -10

R 8

G 1

B -9

Rb -14

Gb -13

Bb -11



Because I know you guys care!


----------



## Mike_WI

@HO -


You might call AVS and talk to Jason Turk (or others) about what they have.

Not everything is listed always.

Now that your audio is optimized, welcome to the continuous tweaking (potentially) of video...


Mike


----------



## Mike_WI

PS - Nice Thomas the train setup!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thanks Mike-I need something for the toddler to do while I'm tweaking/enjoying the HT. He doesn't really want to watch much, lasted 30 minutes on ToyStory3 even.


I'll probably be hitting Turk up in the next few months...negotiating with wifey when I can replace the "free" projector we have.


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20214790
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike-I need something for the toddler to do while I'm tweaking/enjoying the HT. He doesn't really want to watch much, lasted 30 minutes on ToyStory3 even.
> 
> 
> I'll probably be hitting Turk up in the next few months...negotiating with wifey when I can replace the "free" projector we have.



You might also find a deal from an AVS'er that is an every year projector replacer type. You could get a year old projector that is still really good for a heavy discount from new.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Hey,


Wondering if you all think this plan is sound:


When I put the OC703 on the wall, I'm thinking of doing furring strips only on the outside edge as well as for the electric panel hole.


I can get fabric that is suitable that is the height of the wall, so one long piece will suffice.


If I staple the fabric to the furring strips over the OC703, if I just get some flat trim wood peices, cover them with the same fabric, then velcro those to cover the furring strips...


That would look fairly seamless, right?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Sounds right to me - or you can brad nail the fabric covered trim pieces if the fabric has an open weave such that the nail heads slip under the fabric. I know folks who use GoM have done that; might not work for stuff like Commando cloth with a very tight weave, but I may test it, I have a couple places where I need to hide a line of staples under some trim.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Updated the beginning of the thread with current pictures.


Plan:


Spring/Summer: Purchase glass for AV cabinet and insert for bar center cabinet, cover screen wall, center 1st reflection/ceiling, and soffit vertical drop with oc703/fabric, window OC703/fabric inserts, bar accessories, velvet curtains (each side/window width).


By Fall: Purchase B-stock/Mildly Used 1080p projector (JVC/Sony..?)


By Winter: DIY MFW-15 Subs (4 drivers) vs CS 18.2 for sub additions....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Currently can't get XBMC to recognize my other 2TB drive on my HTPC. It will pull my movies from one drive but not the other. My HTPC builder is swinging by Sunday to see if we can't figure it out.


Probably will add a 3 TB 3.0 USB external soon....







Wonder if storing all of these is worth it?


----------



## stockmonkey2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20311647
> 
> 
> 
> By Winter: DIY MFW-15 Subs (4 drivers) vs CS 18.2 for sub additions....



So you decided against the Infinite Baffle?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20311655
> 
> 
> Wonder if storing all of these is worth it?



I wonder that too. I love the cool factor and convenience of the XBMC (and similar) interface - but last time I did this (set up my PC to store a bunch of ripped DVDs, and hacked my xbox to run XBMC) - as cool as it was, I didn't use it much. Maybe because I didn't have the patience to keep it up, when we'd rent something or netflix DVD showed up, we'd pop it in and watch it. Most of the stuff I had ripped were titles that I thought I'd want to watch many times, but rarely did.


That said - I'll probably do it again, because I'm just that way.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *stockmonkey2000* 
So you decided against the Infinite Baffle?
I don't think IB is going to be practical or work very well in my current setup. It is something I definitely want to try in my HT 2.0 (within the next decade







). From reading, putting a IB on my left wall, and not my screen wall, and with the space I have....I can probably get a better curve by just adding a few more sealed designs....I have a bit more room to do so.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* 
I wonder that too. I love the cool factor and convenience of the XBMC (and similar) interface - but last time I did this (set up my PC to store a bunch of ripped DVDs, and hacked my xbox to run XBMC) - as cool as it was, I didn't use it much. Maybe because I didn't have the patience to keep it up, when we'd rent something or netflix DVD showed up, we'd pop it in and watch it. Most of the stuff I had ripped were titles that I thought I'd want to watch many times, but rarely did.
_

That said - I'll probably do it again, because I'm just that way_.








Got XBMC figured out, just had to do a few more goofy things in the menu.


I'll probably keep utilizing it, and soon when XBMC releases their BD player (insert disc into HTPC, auto plays into XBMC) then I'll be super happy.


There is something cool about having 500 BDs on your computer, no?


For now, it is the torrents that keep me happy! Good quality too.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

My friend just bought a Samsung 8000 tv that is phenomenal.


Making me jealous of my projector, and has me looking to get B stock or a discounted 2010 model 1080p.


Any suggestions?


Price range: $1500-2500


Replacing an Optoma HD72 and lens shift would be ideal.....utilizing 16:9 screen.


----------



## andersa

so I'm a bit partial







But I think the JVCs have excellent performance and value. Even my soon 4 year ol' RS-1 have a measured (hometheatermag) native contrast ration of ~ 8000:1, no dynamic iris. later models far exceed that. The latest "budget" JVC is the RS-40/DLA-X3, HT mag measured the contrast to 22000:1, supports 3D and lists at $4495. AV science usually sell them for less. If too much, used JVCs certainly can be had in the range you mention.


/Anders


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andersa* /forum/post/20376809
> 
> 
> so I'm a bit partial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I think the JVCs have excellent performance and value. Even my soon 4 year ol' RS-1 have a measured (hometheatermag) native contrast ration of ~ 8000:1, no dynamic iris. later models far exceed that. The latest "budget" JVC is the RS-40/DLA-X3, HT mag measured the contrast to 22000:1, supports 3D and lists at $4495. AV science usually sell them for less. If too much, used JVCs certainly can be had in the range you mention.
> 
> 
> /Anders



Anders-


You had a solid picture...and it looks nice on your ceiling. Still haven't put up the OC703 yet...







trying to find the right fabric covering....might still want some fabricmate but not sure you'd have enough and don't feel like ordering yet..


I'm leaning toward JVC vs Sony...not sure I want 3D but I guess if I find a deal I'm in....


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20377626
> 
> 
> Anders-
> 
> 
> You had a solid picture...and it looks nice on your ceiling. Still haven't put up the OC703 yet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trying to find the right fabric covering....might still want some fabricmate but not sure you'd have enough and don't feel like ordering yet..
> 
> 
> I'm leaning toward JVC vs Sony...not sure I want 3D but I guess if I find a deal I'm in....



I don't think you could go wrong with either.


/Anders


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andersa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so I'm a bit partial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I think the JVCs have excellent performance and value. Even my soon 4 year ol' RS-1 have a measured (hometheatermag) native contrast ration of ~ 8000:1, no dynamic iris. later models far exceed that. The latest "budget" JVC is the RS-40/DLA-X3, HT mag measured the contrast to 22000:1, supports 3D and lists at $4495. AV science usually sell them for less. If too much, used JVCs certainly can be had in the range you mention.
> 
> 
> /Anders



I would agree that he could look for a used JVC from someone local or maybe a forum member.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Why is TRON so freaking amazing? Can't wait to see this in 1080p.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Not saying I could/would do this...


But.


What would 1-2 DTS 10 kits + 1-2 Growler DUOs sound like?


Each handling their respective Hz regions (DTS


----------



## HuskerOmaha

The Getaway theater.


Minus the obvious soundproofing problems that exist, this design appeals to me over a closed dedicated room....


If you could integrate this into a house design, extending the house footprint for the theater itself (or an extended basement, etc), helping to seal the sound off from the rest of the house, I'm not so sure this wouldn't be my favorite build to copy down the road.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Ordered a couple electric bread cutters from amazon.


Ordered the black speaker fabric from rosebrand.com....


OC703 is still taking up residence in the garage....


Need to figure out what size wood to rip down for frames...


All set to do the screen wall and some reflection points next weekend!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Started working with the OC703 and the panels today.....Got about 1/2 done....


Even if the sound isn't that much better since I'm only using 1", at least the room will look TONS better.


Utilizing the bread electric knife for cutting OC703 is genius. Using anything else would be a pain and for $13 anyone can afford one!


Also bought some premium finished 1x2" wood. They were sanded fine and rounded over edges...I figured at $1.50 a piece for 8 ft pieces it wasn't a bad compromise instead of ripping down sheets of OSB and routing/sanding them.


I'll upload pictures once this "missing security token" issue gets itself figured out.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I keep trying to upload the pics but maybe it doesn't like my computer or something.


I liked Brad (pimp my garage) style of getting his fabric to easily roll off, so I had a couple pallets and a broomstick laying around..


Best nail/stapler/compressor combo ever for $99.











Used premium white 1x2" board instead of ripping OSB....they already come sanded and are straighter than me trying to cut some....











My first attempt--a small skylight window in the rear of the room...











To go around the plug-ins, I just stapled some small fabric pieces around each edge, then stretched the fabric across the whole front and made small cuts to expose the prewrapped holes. Worked out well...











I probably ended up making the holes a little large for the outlets/pre-run wire locations. I'll probably take some fabric to the wall behind the outlets in these spots.












More to come.


----------



## andersa

looks good Greg. I'm glad the insulation is coming to use










There are some box extenders that you could use if you want to to get the box flush with the fabric http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-PVC-Ele.../dp/B000H5ZVY8 


/Anders


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Anders-


Thanks for the tip. I'm going to cut pieces of fabric and 3M77 them to the wall surrounding the boxes-then put the panels back in place to see how it looks.


I think I'll have some OC703 left over too... since I'm not doing bass traps at the moment.


----------



## jamesg99

The screen looks great!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Looks like a million bucks compared to the old version.


Only took 2 days of neglecting my family and 2 fingers sacrificed to the nail gun.


----------



## Iusteve

Looks great


----------



## HuskerOmaha

I'm working down the list of projectors I'm interested in...... (wanting to spend around 2-2.5k)


Sony VWPRO1

InFocus SP8602

Vivitek H5080

BenQ W6000

Epson 8700UB

JVC HD250

JVC RS40

Sony HW20



Thoughts?


Using a Carada Criterion 118" 16:9, Throwing from 13-15ft, light controlled.


Sports/Movies/HDTV...prefer a DLP...I don't own a plasma TV anymore but the image those had were awesome...want that only on the large scale a projector gives you...


----------



## Iusteve

Why isnt the panasonic 4k on your list? Just asking


----------



## HuskerOmaha

If I get away from wanting a DLP first and foremost, I will probably have to throw it back on there.


I'm really looking for the InFocus or Vivitek....My room will require a projector that can have the rear of the room with the lights on while still having a great image (sports/games) and also throw an amazing image when utilized just for theater....


Through a few other opinions, I seem to be down to InFocus/Vivitek/BenQ.


The bottom 4 on there are a few alternatives....


(I really liked my old Optoma 3 chip DLP....)


----------



## LoudandClear

Lookin good Greg!


I would think that your projector decisions will be heavily steered by what works in your room also. I know you had some restrictions regarding throw distance and lens offset with your current proj. Once you have your screen done and projector mount in place you don't want to change all that if you don't need to.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoudandClear* /forum/post/20532205
> 
> 
> Lookin good Greg!
> 
> 
> I would think that your projector decisions will be heavily steered by what works in your room also. I know you had some restrictions regarding throw distance and lens offset with your current proj. Once you have your screen done and projector mount in place you don't want to change all that if you don't need to.



Thanks!


My current projector mount is ghetto-Greg fabricated. It won't be there once I get my legit projector in this fall..... so mounting is movable....


The screen however....is now where it is. No moving that after those panels!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I guess I'll skip the high power screen suggestion then - oh wait...


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20535838
> 
> 
> I guess I'll skip the high power screen suggestion then - oh wait...



We will save that for ~10 years down the road when I get to do 2.0.


Then we will do HP and AT.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20535965
> 
> 
> We will save that for ~10 years down the road when I get to do 2.0.
> 
> 
> Then we will do HP and AT.



10 years? I laugh LOUDLY at that statement as I never even finished 1.0 before starting 2.0. Good luck with your timeline


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Yeah, you are probably right. I just jump from hobby to hobby too much, and I doubt we are moving from this current location for some time.


But you never know.


I think I am throwing out the Vivitek. If I stay DLP, I'm looking at the BenQ or the Infocus.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Might be down to the BenQ or start looking at all projectors again since the InFocus may be hard to find since they are dc'd.


Finished the bar area with the glass insert this weekend, and got the shower door in finally so the rear of the room is complete.





























Now to do the suede/velvet sidewall curtains and find a new projector! Or used...who wants to sell?


----------



## HuskerOmaha

What do you guys think?



Build out 2-dual opposed MFW-15 boxes with desertdome and have 4-MFW 15drivers and 2-CHT18 drivers in my basement? Or buy a CHT 18.2 to match and have a total of 4-CHT18 drivers?


Choices, choices.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Your choice may already be made - the MFW-15 drivers are almost all gone I believe.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20644366
> 
> 
> Your choice may already be made - the MFW-15 drivers are almost all gone I believe.



desertdome has 8 in hand he has been sitting on......


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just thought I'd throw it out there...


Organizing a GTG-Sub testing at my place, October 15/22 TBD which date works best.


For more info, or if you want to attend (AND BRING YOUR SUB!!!)

http://www.chasehometheater.com/foru...ead.php?t=3975


----------



## DemonGT

how far up did you tile the shower?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DemonGT* /forum/post/20667781
> 
> 
> how far up did you tile the shower?



84 inches. Kind of just arbitrarily picked the height.


----------



## jim tressler

when tiling a shower I always go at least 1 tile or 4" above the shower head


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim tressler* /forum/post/20668833
> 
> 
> when tiling a shower I always go at least 1 tile or 4" above the shower head



Yeah, I hate when you have water splashing onto the paint. Ours looked weird going one tile higher since these were the big guys. Works where it was at.


But totally agree, if you are not using 12" or similar sized tiles, higher the better.


----------



## jim tressler

looks good.. I would have done mine the same way as you did.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thanks Nick!



Got a side wall TV mounted....use for doing workouts (Might start the Insanity one), secondary football games this fall, and to manage my HTPC so I can quit turning on the projector all of the time.


Will probably get a 36-40" slim profile one this fall after I find my BenQ6000....any TV suggestions?






















Time to find some curtain materials for the side walls and find that BenQ6000 on sale somewhere!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Just placed an order for the BenQ W6000. Need something that is 1080p and DLP and think this will work well down there.


Almost done buying stuff....for a while.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Yes!! Let the UPS / Fedex tracking begin!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20691245
> 
> 
> Yes!! Let the UPS / Fedex tracking begin!



You know it! Who knows, if Hancock fabrics doesn't have my stuff around here, might be hitting up Rosebrand again...


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

I need to decide on what fabric to use on my screen wall...have a bunch of extra Commando Cloth, buts its too heavy I think, and I might want something a little prettier if its front and center. Maybe GoM, maybe Dazian CCC...hmm...


----------



## HuskerOmaha

What, my speaker fabric isn't good enough?










I personally like that Dazian stuff, it looks nice.



Might roll with this for the sidewall curtains that apparently I'm set on....

http://www.curtainworks.com/index.ph...w#reviewheader 


What do you think?


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Looks pretty smexy to me - will they send you a fabric sample? I'd want to make sure it looks the same in room as on the website.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20695141
> 
> 
> Looks pretty smexy to me - will they send you a fabric sample? I'd want to make sure it looks the same in room as on the website.



Good call. Projector ships tomorrow.


Ordered swatches of:


Messina Velvet Swatch Black


Messina Velvet Swatch Plum

Messina Velvet Swatch Peacock

Messina Velvet Swatch Crimson

Messina Velvet Swatch Chocolate


Figured I might as well get those last 4, who knows might not want black.


Free and free shipping. Nice.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Brad,


Projector is currently in Cali. Can you speed up that 405 construction so I can get it before Wednesday?


Will JetBlue make Omaha a hub and give me the 4 dollar special?


----------



## Iusteve

What pj did you decide on?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20700818
> 
> 
> What pj did you decide on?



Decided on the BenQ W6000. Wanted DLP over Lcos with LCD last...watch too many sports and HD television and have always preferred DLP for the sharpness and motion sensitivity.....with ambient light in the back of the room and this apparently is quite the light cannon.


Was going to see if I could wait until this winter or next year for newer models but decided I had to have for the start of college football. It was on the cheaper end of my budget but thought it was a good deal at this time.....


Should be here Wed. Should be my biggest upgrade to date. I'm pumped.


Just need to get some calibration numbers from people or hire a pro....and find the right ceiling mount!


----------



## Iusteve

Very nice I cant wait to hear your reviews on it. I know nothing about that unit but seeing how it is in the same price range as the Panasonic pt-ae4000u I have to ask. Does it have the lens memory function like the Panny? Just curious as I am getting close to time to purchase a pj myself.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20700799
> 
> 
> Brad,
> 
> 
> Projector is currently in Cali. Can you speed up that 405 construction so I can get



You didn't go for the door to door helicopter delivery service?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20701898
> 
> 
> Very nice I cant wait to hear your reviews on it. I know nothing about that unit but seeing how it is in the same price range as the Panasonic pt-ae4000u I have to ask. Does it have the lens memory function like the Panny? Just curious as I am getting close to time to purchase a pj myself.



No, it doesn't - actually no other projector currently has that capability, I think the Epson 21000 is supposed to have it - if it ever actually ships (was supposed to be out a year ago).


----------



## Iusteve

Brad=Greg's personal thread service attendant. Thanks buddy.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Us midwestern guys gotta stick together


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20702001
> 
> 
> Brad=Greg's personal thread service attendant. Thanks buddy.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20702051
> 
> 
> Us midwestern guys gotta stick together



You know it! My package is still in California. Does no one work Saturdays out there?


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20703086
> 
> 
> You know it! My package is still in California. Does no one work Saturdays out there?



Does anyone work in California.......ever??


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Iusteve* 
Does anyone work in California.......ever??
Good point. I'm at work now!

http://www.projectorreviews.com/benq...alibration.php 



Awesome, in depth review on the BenQ W6000.


I'll be trying these settings in addition to a couple of others.


----------



## dtesterunc

Great room! Our rooms do have alot of similarities. I subscribed to it as I saw some great ideas as I come to them. Would love to ask questions?


Looks like your about 6 months ahead of me. I'm trying hard to make the big push to get the back half of the room done before college football starts.


One question I did have right up front. You put tile in the back near the cabinets. Do you think that had any negative influence on the acoustics in your room. I'm currently putting in cabinets on my back wall and was trying to consider if I should tile a small area there or do carpet right up to the base cabinets.


Keep up the good work!!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dtesterunc* /forum/post/20704790
> 
> 
> Great room! Our rooms do have alot of similarities. I subscribed to it as I saw some great ideas as I come to them. Would love to ask questions?
> 
> 
> Looks like your about 6 months ahead of me. I'm trying hard to make the big push to get the back half of the room done before college football starts.
> 
> 
> One question I did have right up front. You put tile in the back near the cabinets. Do you think that had any negative influence on the acoustics in your room. I'm currently putting in cabinets on my back wall and was trying to consider if I should tile a small area there or do carpet right up to the base cabinets.
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work!!



The tile was interesting actually. I was going to only partially tile that area, but after having friends and family over, it was decided it would look weird if we didn't tile the whole space.


I'm happy with the look, and functionality. Since mine is essentially a multi-purpose room, I couldnt go all dedicated theater down there (white ceiling, which I may paint soon). I kept telling myself that 98% of people who might buy the house wouldn't know what a dedicated theater was.










The rear of the room (behind the bar seating) is so diffuse with the cabinets, tile, toys, popcorn machine, angled corners, that I haven't noticed any problems. +, the theater seats are in front of a partial wall if you will...I haven't had people over to watch a movie that I needed to use bar seating yet. I'll keep that in mind. I haven't taken true acoustical measurements down there though.


Good luck pushing toward college football season! I'd aim more for bowl season if I were you-it is so hard to hit a deadline date with all the small stuff....I'll be keeping up on yours....nice sub purchase!


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20691196
> 
> 
> Just placed an order for the BenQ W6000. Need something that is 1080p and DLP and think this will work well down there.
> 
> 
> Almost done buying stuff....for a while.



Glad to hear your agonizing is over...

...for now.











Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Projector is on the truck-out for delivery today. Nice!


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Projector is on the truck-out for delivery today. Nice!



Pics soon?


Mike


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20713112
> 
> 
> Projector is on the truck-out for delivery today. Nice!



Just saw on CNN that the UPS drivers union is on strike.......bad news for your projector


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Fedex! Thank you Benq. Probably won't get it until tomorrow since no one to sign today.


----------



## Iusteve

I sure hope the guys in the warehouse dont decide to play soccer tonight since your projector box will be sitting around just asking for punishment...lol.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Got the projector. Maybe I'll snap some pics tomorrow to prove it.


So, I was thinking of using my bookmarking in my XBMC that manages my movies to bookmark a bunch of stills to compare the upgrade in picture for you guys (and me) from the Optoma HD72 to the BenQ W6000.


Do about 10 or so, shadow detail, contrast, blacks, colors, etc. Then snap a bunch with the Optoma, and then the BenQ and post.


Might not get done until next week.


Still waiting on those curtain samples...maybe UPS is in charge of getting those out here, eh?


----------



## Mike_WI

Looking forward to pics.

Congrats.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha












Projector waiting to be installed...sorry buddy going to be another week+.


Curtain samples....these would be pretty much floor to ceiling, soffit edge to screen wall edge on each side wall.

Will function to cover rack/small tv while viewing movies...and cover window while viewing when ambient light can squeeze by the insert that is installed.


Which ones do you guys like?


Taken with different exposures and against the bar/wall, velvet screen frame, and screen wall panels/carpet to show color differences.


Other than the chocolate, I think all may be good...your choice?


Colors: Crimson, Plum, Chocolate, Black, Peacock.



















































































I apologize for the picture sizes, I can't seem to get uploader to work lately...


----------



## dtesterunc

Congrats on the new toy!!!


I like 1st choice- crimson 2nd - black


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Think I'll probably order those Crimson curtains this week.....


Got the projector unpacked but will install Thursday-weekend.





























Quite a bit larger than the Optoma!




















Will try and get those comparative pictures done this weekend. Need to get some screen shots bookmarked in XBMC first.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Holding off on the curtains. Think I need to make sure that is something I want.


Got the projector hung and snapped some shots.


1st shot in series is the Optoma HD72, the next is the BenQ W6000.


Tripod, ISO 100, F 5.6?.
































































































































I apologize for all the huge pictures, but for some reason avs and hts forums won't let me upload. Keeps mentioning a security token or something. Hasn't always done this. Any ideas?


Sports shots with rear lights/bathroom/stairwell all on full.




















A little blurry, my bad. These were off the tripod.




















Thanks YamahaSHO for some chief mount parts, you were right, that thing is rock solid. Still need to adjust some x axis stuff.


Thanks to BIGBADDABOOM and others for calibration suggestions. Still need to tweak but looking better than OOTB.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

All screens were from the ScubaSteve Demodisc rip I had using Windows Media Player. Still need to do some BluRays to get a true sense of the upgrade, but liking it so far.


----------



## yamahaSHO

Looks good! Glad you like the parts I sold you. I didn't think you'd be displeased. Hopefully you had all the small parts needed in the bag.


----------



## dtesterunc

Looks fantastic!!!


The new projector looks like it puts out a beautiful picture. WOW!!!


You've done a great job


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Thanks guys!


Jason-I had all the parts I needed-thanks.



I'm trying to decide whether to put my CC down below the screen and part the subs a bit. I'm nervous because I don't think 100% of the CC sound would get to the 2nd row of seats, but I guess this isn't as important since they aren't filled 100% of the time...just for sporting events.


I like how it looks now...but it wouldn't be that hard to run longer 12GA through the CC conduit and snake behind the screen.


Hmm.


----------



## andersa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20759723
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Jason-I had all the parts I needed-thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide whether to put my CC down below the screen and part the subs a bit. I'm nervous because I don't think 100% of the CC sound would get to the 2nd row of seats, but I guess this isn't as important since they aren't filled 100% of the time...just for sporting events.
> 
> 
> I like how it looks now...but it wouldn't be that hard to run longer 12GA through the CC conduit and snake behind the screen.
> 
> 
> Hmm.



Greg,


remember that all dialogue in movies come from the center channel, so it is not only sporting events that would be impacted. Try tilting the CC up a bit if you put it down low and it may reach your 2nd row.


----------



## Mike_WI

Re: center channel

You can aim center channel with a laser pointer at ear level of row(s) you are targeting.


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* 
Re: center channel

You can aim center channel with a laser pointer at ear level of row(s) you are targeting.


Mike
Quote:

Originally Posted by *andersa* 
Greg,


remember that all dialogue in movies come from the center channel, so it is not only sporting events that would be impacted. Try tilting the CC up a bit if you put it down low and it may reach your 2nd row.
Anders, I didn't really type that too well.







I meant I shouldn't really worry much about all 100% of sound reaching the 2nd row...since that is only occupied for large events such as football games/pay-per-view stuff....and sometimes I just run that in all stereo....


I've done the laser pointer check, and it actually would probably be fine....I might wait to do this until either CHT comes out with a dual SHO center...wife likes it where it is as well.....


All goes back to me being stupid and not going AT.


----------



## gpmbc

Just a thought Greg, I read you didn't get the nod for totally black ceilings. Here might be a potential compromise with great benefits. My projector (BenQ W10000) is mounted close to the celing as well as my screen so reflection off the ceiling really hampers performance. I got this material http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm which has an adhesive backing and is 30" wide 200" long. I just tacked it up to line the first 30" above the screen to see if it would make a difference. I was so surprised at how much it impacted the pic. When watching a movie you can see the lights on the ceiling until it reaches the protostar material and it's a black hole, hard to even see the velvet going around the screen border with a movie on. From that little experiment, I'm all in now and gonna black out the ceilings. When I took the material down, the black bars on wide screen movies looked hazy and the pic looked washed out in comparison to what I had seen under more ideal circumstances. Best bang for the buck ever!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gpmbc* /forum/post/20778655
> 
> 
> Just a thought Greg, I read you didn't get the nod for totally black ceilings. Here might be a potential compromise with great benefits. My projector (BenQ W10000) is mounted close to the celing as well as my screen so reflection off the ceiling really hampers performance. I got this material http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm which has an adhesive backing and is 30" wide 200" long. I just tacked it up to line the first 30" above the screen to see if it would make a difference. I was so surprised at how much it impacted the pic. When watching a movie you can see the lights on the ceiling until it reaches the protostar material and it's a black hole, hard to even see the velvet going around the screen border with a movie on. From that little experiment, I'm all in now and gonna black out the ceilings. When I took the material down, the black bars on wide screen movies looked hazy and the pic looked washed out in comparison to what I had seen under more ideal circumstances. Best bang for the buck ever!




I think I read that on a thread, or have seen you post that somewhere else? Doesn't look like a bad price, and I have noticed the light off my ceiling when I go dark down there. It also reflects a bit off the top of my subs that are sitting in front of the screen.


AT. Everyone should go AT.










By winter, if she still doesn't let me paint that section of the ceiling black, I'll most likely try the option you suggest! Thanks for the link. You can really tell in screen shots the difference of a proper HT and a multi use room like mine. Just looking at Brad H shots vs mine I can see differences. (Even though my projector is far superior







)


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20780534
> 
> 
> Just looking at Brad H shots vs mine I can see differences. (Even though my projector is far superior
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



Hey!


----------



## Joesyah

Man!! The Benq w6000 destroys the Optoma HD72 ..even in the pics! I know the differences are more noticeable in person. Good job!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20780982
> 
> 
> Hey!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20781453
> 
> 
> Man!! The Benq w6000 destroys the Optoma HD72 ..even in the pics! I know the differences are more noticeable in person. Good job!



Oh Brad, you know I'm kidding.










Yeah, I never thought the Optoma was THAT off. The colors are way different, the shadow detail and contrast, especially on the Dark Knight are considerably better. I mean you have the 1080p upgrade as well, but this was all 720p material that I used to compare.


The bulb on the Optoma does have 1500 hours, and I never did get good calibration numbers for it, but I am very happy with the results the BenQ is giving me!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20781841
> 
> 
> Oh Brad, you know I'm kidding.



No, no, the damage is done. This will cost you an extra direct impact noob toob. Maybe two.


----------



## Joesyah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20781841
> 
> 
> Oh Brad, you know I'm kidding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I never thought the Optoma was THAT off. The colors are way different, the shadow detail and contrast, especially on the Dark Knight are considerably better. I mean you have the 1080p upgrade as well, but this was all 720p material that I used to compare.
> 
> 
> The bulb on the Optoma does have 1500 hours, and I never did get good calibration numbers for it, but I am very happy with the results the BenQ is giving me!



Yeah for sure, I could easily see on my monitor how much different just the shadow detail was! Looks like a greenish tinge over the Optoma compared to the Benq. An Iris isn't all bad, Heh! lol


Yeah ..both are DC2 projectors, but the processing and optics are farrrr superior in the Benq W6000. I'm glad you're happy with it. I've always liked that projector.










Some say screenshots are useless..not from where I'm sitting.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20781977
> 
> 
> No, no, the damage is done. This will cost you an extra direct impact noob toob. Maybe two.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesyah* /forum/post/20782483
> 
> 
> Yeah for sure, I could easily see on my monitor how much different just the shadow detail was! Looks like a greenish tinge over the Optoma compared to the Benq. An Iris isn't all bad, Heh! lol
> 
> 
> Yeah ..both are DC2 projectors, but the processing and optics are farrrr superior in the Benq W6000. I'm glad you're happy with it. I've always liked that projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some say screenshots are useless..not from where I'm sitting.



Brad-I'm jumping on tonight.


Yeah, I think I have the newer firmware, which must have fixed the Iris problems that were noted on the early reviews as the major flaw.


It is funny, no one will directly tell you from BenQ whether it is DC3 or DC2, though it seems everyone knows it is DC2. Weird....


Anyways, I'm happy with this buy, hope it keeps me going for a few years.



Now to integrate 2 LilMike F-20s with my CHT CS 18.1(s). Hopefully that DCX makes it easy!


----------



## gpmbc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20780534
> 
> 
> I think I read that on a thread, or have seen you post that somewhere else? Doesn't look like a bad price, and I have noticed the light off my ceiling when I go dark down there. It also reflects a bit off the top of my subs that are sitting in front of the screen.
> 
> 
> AT. Everyone should go AT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By winter, if she still doesn't let me paint that section of the ceiling black, I'll most likely try the option you suggest! Thanks for the link. You can really tell in screen shots the difference of a proper HT and a multi use room like mine. Just looking at Brad H shots vs mine I can see differences. (Even though my projector is far superior
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



First time posting it. I read it about in a thread about screen masking. While I was figuring out how to implement that I tried on the ceiling and it was a done deal. The black bars weren't nearly as much of a factor after that.


----------



## gpmbc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20786115
> 
> 
> Brad-I'm jumping on tonight.
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think I have the newer firmware, which must have fixed the Iris problems that were noted on the early reviews as the major flaw.
> 
> 
> It is funny, no one will directly tell you from BenQ whether it is DC3 or DC2, though it seems everyone knows it is DC2. Weird....
> 
> 
> Anyways, I'm happy with this buy, hope it keeps me going for a few years.
> 
> 
> 
> Now to integrate 2 LilMike F-20s with my CHT CS 18.1(s). Hopefully that DCX makes it easy!



I've got some CHT 18s combined with DTS 10s. I think you will like your horn/sealed combo, it can be a potent mix once integrated right.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gpmbc* /forum/post/20786627
> 
> 
> I've got some CHT 18s combined with DTS 10s. I think you will like your horn/sealed combo, it can be a potent mix once integrated right.



I'll have to find your build thread? 2 DTS10s? How many CHT 18s?


I'd have to lay the F-20s on their sides, but looks like LilMike designed them to do so. I'm still not sure with only 2 18.1s I'll get that


----------



## gpmbc

I don't have a build thread but I do have a link showing a pic of my set up in the pics of your sub thread. I have 4) 18s but let the dts 10s do the heavy lifting down low for movies. Music the 18s handle it with ease.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gpmbc* /forum/post/20788652
> 
> 
> I don't have a build thread but I do have a link showing a pic of my set up in the pics of your sub thread. I have 4) 18s but let the dts 10s do the heavy lifting down low for movies. Music the 18s handle it with ease.



So it looks like you tinkered with having both running up to 80hz and crossing over, and doing the mix.


Since they've broken in, you still running both across the whole range below 80?


I love the 3677, if I would have taken my time longer and gone AT, I would have gone with 3 of those like you. Looks awesome.


And 2 DTS10s with 4 CS 18s.... Holy cow. I didnt see how many cubic feet you are filling?


----------



## gpmbc

I have tried many different placement options with the 18s but where they are now has provided the best coverage to all seats. I tried high passing the 18s and low passing the dts 10s. After all the tinkering they sound great and very visceral both playing up to 80hz. They compliment each other nice. I really want a receiver with xt32 and take it up another notch. Thanks re the look.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gpmbc* /forum/post/20789825
> 
> 
> I have tried many different placement options with the 18s but where they are now has provided the best coverage to all seats. I tried high passing the 18s and low passing the dts 10s. After all the tinkering they sound great and very visceral both playing up to 80hz. They compliment each other nice. I really want a receiver with xt32 and take it up another notch. Thanks re the look.



Yeah I probably should have pushed to the Onkyo above my NR1007 to get xt32 instead of xt. We will see though, I'm sure the DCX has everything I need.


Will hopefully get those F-20s in within a few weeks and tinker running all of them full range. I don't think I can fit anything else in my basement if I do keep 2-F-20s.


Thanks for your input.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Couple Updates:


F-20s still getting the wood finishing worked on...hopefully done and painted by Labor Day weekend or the week after and installed and FR matched.


By the GTG in October I will have my CC moved to below the screen. Enough people have convinced me that is now a weak spot in my setup and I have finally figured out it should work. Just need to order more speaker wire.


The BenQ is working out awesome and the quality improvement is quite noticeable to guests-specifically the sports/brightness with lights on.


----------



## HuskerOmaha






























Started working on the F-20s. Rotozipped out the access panels and threw some more PL glue on the inside. Cleaned off the excess PL on the outside. Next stop is to screw in some flanges on the inside of each hole so we can mount the access panels to those.


Mojave's MFW-15 sealed boxes are also awaiting finishing.


A little helper cleaning up.


----------



## pokekevin

this is a very nice and clean setup! I saw earlier on page 1 that you had a pretty large wine storage rack. Where did that go? I mustve missed it I think


-Kevin


----------



## HuskerOmaha

kevin-


The large (20ish?) bottle wine rack is flush with the small sump/storage room to the left of the sink at the bar. I'll see if I can't find a link.











Put my CC under the screen. Will construct a stand for it as soon as the F-20s are done and we find the best spot.


Put a temp insert of 703 and the speaker fabric where the CC was, eventually I'll redo it.


Once the F-20s are in front of that white trim, the front screen will be the only white you can see!




















I need to download irfran or whatever so I can adjust these sizes.


----------



## pokekevin

Ahh very nice!


If you upload to imageshack they give you the ability to resize!


-Kevin


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Switched from cable to DirecTv.


The video upgrade was amazing, I wish I had known this a few years ago!


With free NFL Ticket, I'm now living in my basement though I need to get out and finish those F-20s this week!


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20942082
> 
> 
> With free NFL Ticket, I'm now living in my basement though I need to get out and finish those F-20s this week!



No this is where you are wrong. It is football season and this is the time we are supposed to live in our basements. Enjoy the season, the F-20s will still be there after.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20942628
> 
> 
> No this is where you are wrong. It is football season and this is the time we are supposed to live in our basements. Enjoy the season, the F-20s will still be there after.



See, I kind of have to have those done, and the 4 MFW boxes because...


1) It is 5 weeks until the GTG-subwoofer showdown AT MY HOUSE.


2) I need the 3rd car garage for a car, not sub boxes (in winter).


3) W.A.F.


I need to go pre-order 3 video games now, can you guess which ones?


I LOVE FOOTBALL


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/20944839
> 
> 
> See, I kind of have to have those done, and the 4 MFW boxes because...
> 
> 
> 1) It is 5 weeks until the GTG-subwoofer showdown AT MY HOUSE.
> 
> 
> 2) I need the 3rd car garage for a car, not sub boxes (in winter).
> 
> 
> 3) W.A.F.
> 
> 
> I need to go pre-order 3 video games now, can you guess which ones?
> 
> 
> I LOVE FOOTBALL



1) I understand


2) I live in Northern Indiana and haven't been able to park in the garage in years (summer or winter) and we get ALOT of snow.


3)Say no more


4)Easy.....MW3....MW3......MW3 that is the ONLY game to even consider. I sure hope you arent considering BF3 or GoW3? Those will NEVER matchup to what's coming in November.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/20945509
> 
> 
> 1) I understand
> 
> 
> 2) I live in Northern Indiana and haven't been able to park in the garage in years (summer or winter) and we get ALOT of snow.
> 
> 
> 3)Say no more
> 
> 
> 4)Easy.....MW3....MW3......MW3 that is the ONLY game to even consider. I sure hope you arent considering BF3 or GoW3? Those will NEVER matchup to what's coming in November.



Well, you got #4 right, twice.


I agree no comparisons, but I will be buying those other 2...as well.


Crazy fall!


----------



## hanesian

This is me, Old Clueless non-video gaming fart, pretending like I have half a clue what you are talking about.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanesian* /forum/post/20946806
> 
> 
> This is me, Old Clueless non-video gaming fart, pretending like I have half a clue what you are talking about.



Thats okay. Sometimes I think I should hang up the controller. And then three sweet games come out every fall.










F-20s should be finished by this weekend...baby steps.......


----------



## stormwind13

who's bringing the DTS-10s? I'm quite interested to give those a listen at the GTG


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormwind13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> who's bringing the DTS-10s? I'm quite interested to give those a listen at the GTG



nebrunner has one and a growler.


EDIT: He has a thread under the dedicated theater section titled Omaha Theater #5.


I hope to go pick his stuff up next weekend and EQ before the GTG since it will take some time to try and match with the growler and room....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Because I like to post huge pictures...


Progress...


----------



## Mike_WI

You are insane.

But I like that.

Keep posting pics...


Mike


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

^^ I assume that's where you're sleeping now too?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/20999448
> 
> 
> You are insane.
> 
> But I like that.
> 
> Keep posting pics...
> 
> 
> Mike





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20999609
> 
> 
> ^^ I assume that's where you're sleeping now too?




You know, I had this foreboding feeling come over me; so about two weeks ago I hired a twice a month cleaning lady for the wife. She starts today.


Still sleeping in bed.


----------



## Mike_WI

Are you going to the Badger/Neb game?


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you going to the Badger/Neb game?
> 
> 
> Mike



I had 4 wiscy season tickets in my cart and had my cc information entered. The browser just sat there thinking when I hit buy. So no go. I think the Skers have a hill to climb in this one. A tall hill.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/21005388
> 
> 
> You know, I had this foreboding feeling come over me; so about two weeks ago I hired a twice a month cleaning lady for the wife. She starts today.
> 
> 
> Still sleeping in bed.



Damn you are smooth


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/20999609
> 
> 
> ^^ I assume that's where you're sleeping now too?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/21005388
> 
> 
> You know, I had this foreboding feeling come over me; so about two weeks ago I hired a twice a month cleaning lady for the wife. She starts today.
> 
> 
> Still sleeping in bed.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/21005984
> 
> 
> Damn you are smooth



HO is really a model AVS'er for us all to emulate!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/21005984
> 
> 
> Damn you are smooth





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/21006198
> 
> 
> HO is really a model AVS'er for us all to emulate!



Well, when you convince your wife that a basement theater is much more important than a three week European vacation, you have to make amends.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Will be updating the random subs appearing in my basement in the GTG subwoofer testing thread linked in my sig. It is getting hairy. Have 10 MFW drivers and the CS 18.T at this point.


----------



## mistaforty

Just subscribed to the thread and wanted to say whuts up to the posters. Im starting my theater which is already done but not really done lol meaning i bought a model home with a 14.4 x 20.5 x 9 dedicated theater room and its wired for in wall speakers (that im not gonna use and the rears are on the ceiling and would sit directly above to in front of second row seating) wired with component (which ill switch to hdmi), and wired for a ceiling mount projector (too close to the screen wall) with a faceplate at the front of the room (theres a closet at the back of the room where ill more than likely house the equipment). so i have sort of a blank slate and plan to work on it for about a year depending on how i choose to sound proof paint sconces etc... sorry for the novel..lol


----------



## benclement11

I can't really begin to say how jealous I am of you. You have a very nice room. You may have said before...but lots of content on this thread.

How do those SHO speakers sound? I'm sure they are very dynamic for movies, but how do they sound for music? What was your point of reference system before you bought them? I'm just curious how you would compare them to a speaker with a dome tweeter as I can't decide if I should go horn next time I make a purchase. I'm torn as I have never heard a really good horn speaker, but am sure they are great. I wish I lived just a little closer as I'd love to come to the GTG. I live in Brookings, SD which is about 3 1/2-4 hrs.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benclement11* /forum/post/21081690
> 
> 
> I can't really begin to say how jealous I am of you. You have a very nice room. You may have said before...but lots of content on this thread.
> 
> How do those SHO speakers sound? I'm sure they are very dynamic for movies, but how do they sound for music? What was your point of reference system before you bought them? I'm just curious how you would compare them to a speaker with a dome tweeter as I can't decide if I should go horn next time I make a purchase. I'm torn as I have never heard a really good horn speaker, but am sure they are great. I wish I lived just a little closer as I'd love to come to the GTG. I live in Brookings, SD which is about 3 1/2-4 hrs.



benclement-


Thanks for the compliments. It isn't the perfect room, but I think it really came together quite nicely with the room I had to work with. I only have a half basement on the house footprint, and our house isn't that large.


That said, I'm super happy with it-will be nice for years to come and resale. Probably overdid the bathroom....by a LOT.


I've heard AV123 speakers (music only), various Klipsch setups, and the SHOs. I'm really no speaker expert, but my subwoofer resume is growing quite fast. I've heard ribbon/dome tweeters for HT and frankly think waveguide/horns blast them out of the park, especially at louder levels. Not even close with most of the solid ID options you have out there for HT. And the overpriced speakers/subs they sell you in store for minimal power for $$$$$$ is ridiculous....


I would say the SHOs are a great HT speaker, music secondary. They really do have great detail and fit well with my subs crossed at 120hz. Crossing there really gets some great midbass. When CHT comes out with floorstanders I will probably try and upgrade my L and R to get even more midbass impact at that point.


Are you into DIY? There are some fun horn designs in the DIY thread. I think the SHOs are great for the money. I'd also look into the new eD products, as well as JBL PROs. The 3678 is an awesome horn with a great 15" driver for midbass. I don't have the room to try those though.


If I had thought of doing AT before I was half done with my basement, I'd probably have different speaker setups being tried like my subs-but I don't have room for larger monitors or centers. Next house.










Hit up people like tesseract-he is big into speakers and design and thought the SHOs did better than he expected for music.


----------



## nebrunner

Did you get my pm's about the speaker cable for the DTS-10? You better try one of yours out and make sure it will work, there is that thing about 2 conductor vs 4 conductor and I don't know what you have.


Good idea on the cleaning person, next time I see you remind me to ask you how that is working out.


----------



## roadster-s

I really like the idea of where you have that little counter and stools right behind the chairs







it must be nice sometimes just to sit there with a beer and friends while something is on the screen (Like the Pats!)


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nebrunner* /forum/post/21091686
> 
> 
> Did you get my pm's about the speaker cable for the DTS-10? You better try one of yours out and make sure it will work, there is that thing about 2 conductor vs 4 conductor and I don't know what you have.
> 
> 
> Good idea on the cleaning person, next time I see you remind me to ask you how that is working out.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roadster-s* /forum/post/21092403
> 
> 
> I really like the idea of where you have that little counter and stools right behind the chairs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it must be nice sometimes just to sit there with a beer and friends while something is on the screen (Like the Pats!)



I have 2 conductor Speakons, so we may need what you have at home since it appears your DTS10 would be a 4 conductor....probably need that friday night so we have something to do.


The cleaning lady was and is money. Less stressful wife is happy wife. Actually she is pissed about this whole GTG, so I won't be spending any money on any HT stuff for like a year after this. Unless I'm sneaky.


The counter and stools work awesome roadster-perfect for watching some football on, sometimes I prefer to sit up there, well especially for having a drink and some food.


The Pats aren't too shabby-Danny Woodhead is a friend


----------



## NumLock

I just went through all the pages.







Love this thread.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NumLock* /forum/post/21144914
> 
> 
> I just went through all the pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this thread.



Thanks NumLock!


Will be changing up my setup soon regarding subs. I am selling the F20s and probably the CHT 18.1s. Will be going with either 1) 2 SubM HP, 2) 3-4 CHT 18.2, 3) DIY (4-18" high excursion, high power drivers (LMS/Pi/etc)


Also will move the projector back off the soffit if it works out, will install a door over the rack, and move towards RF or at least a consolidation of the remotes and use a ipad3 or similar device.


Woo Hoo, let the fun and happy wife begin!


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/21145591
> 
> 
> Thanks NumLock!
> 
> 
> Will be changing up my setup soon regarding subs. I am selling the F20s and probably the CHT 18.1s. Will be going with either 1) 2 SubM HP, 2) 3-4 CHT 18.2, 3) DIY (4-18" high excursion, high power drivers (LMS/Pi/etc)
> 
> 
> Also will move the projector back off the soffit if it works out, will install a door over the rack, and move towards RF or at least a consolidation of the remotes and use a ipad3 or similar device.
> 
> 
> Woo Hoo, let the fun and happy wife begin!



Great "To Do" list!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Looking at threads and forums just gets me in trouble.


I want to experiment with mains and get a couple of the 15" TD drivers from AE and the QSC waveguides with the 1" compression driver like my SHO-10s, and the boxes that Mark Seaton is designing via WW Speaker Cabs.


----------



## btinindy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking at threads and forums just gets me in trouble.
> 
> 
> I want to experiment with mains and get a couple of the 15" TD drivers from AE and the QSC waveguides with the 1" compression driver like my SHO-10s, and the boxes that Mark Seaton is designing via WW Speaker Cabs.



Totally with you! I am anxiously waiting to see all of the SEOS build threads when the AE drivers start shipping from the group buy.it will be my first real DIY (Not counting car subwoofer enclosures that I built in high school-wish I still had pictures of those!), so I am excited to get started. I toyed with the idea of making enclosures this weekend, but decided that I better wait to get allow the parts first to make sure that all is accounted for. Besides I have plenty of other projects to do and football to watch.


Your thread has been fun to follow. If you build the speakers please make a build thread!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *btinindy* /forum/post/21248276
> 
> 
> Totally with you! I am anxiously waiting to see all of the SEOS build threads when the AE drivers start shipping from the group buy.it will be my first real DIY (Not counting car subwoofer enclosures that I built in high school-wish I still had pictures of those!), so I am excited to get started. I toyed with the idea of making enclosures this weekend, but decided that I better wait to get allow the parts first to make sure that all is accounted for. Besides I have plenty of other projects to do and football to watch.
> 
> 
> Your thread has been fun to follow. If you build the speakers please make a build thread!



btinindy-For sure. I will definitely have them here, if not in the DIY forum...though they are essentially just screwdriver ready like Mark has said he wants them to be.....still on the par with the F20s DIY wise.


Those TD15s are beast and sexy looking!


My next DIY project is installing a whisper belt drive garage opener and taking my loud chain one down this month!


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Stop giving me speaker envy! Resistance is futile!


p.s. Happy Thanksgiving, and hope to see you online ...


----------



## Mike_WI

Happy Thanksgiving!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI* /forum/post/21250750
> 
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving!
> 
> 
> Mike



Happy Thanksgiving to you as well.


Any great Cyber Monday nabs? I'm still searching for that ~40inch LCD for my sidewall.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Plasma TV suggestions:


I'm going to upgrade the sidewall TV in my theater.


Looking at around a 50" tv for the sidewall....


Price range $550 (Zenith rebadged LG at sears) to $850 (Samsung PN50D550?).


I like the plasmas for the thiness and great picture in a light controlled room I can get.


Suggestions?


----------



## Iusteve

^ We have a 42" Samsung and a 50" LG and I LOVE them both. I will say the Samsung has a slightly better picture but not enough to really notice. That said the Sammy cost $1300 and the LG we got on sale for somewhere around $6-700. I am a plasma fan PERIOD! I would recommend any deal you can get irregardless of the brand. LG, Samsung, Sharp are all good....Vizio is the next tier down but their higher end models are nice.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Putting the plasma TV decision on hold until this coming fall. I would only really use it for the bowl games over the holidays.. Then I'm taking board certification so I won't have time for gaming (the plasma) until next fall.


So, what do we do? We are back to subwoofer improvements!


Technosponge was kind enough (pending sale) to take the CHT 18.T off my hands. I'm now either going to go with a quad pack of CHT 18.2s and likely a LG clone amp (10000)....or do 8 Fi SSD or Q18 in 4 dual opposed boxes, eD made cabs, and a LG clone (14000).


Decisions, decisions!


----------



## Technosponge

I'm impatiently waiting for both the CHTs and what you end up with. Thanks in advance for the demo of new subs?


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/21346598
> 
> 
> Then I'm taking board certification so I won't have time for gaming (the plasma) until next fall.



This my friend is unacceptable! No gaming until NEXT fall?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Technosponge* /forum/post/21346764
> 
> 
> I'm impatiently waiting for both the CHTs and what you end up with. Thanks in advance for the demo of new subs?



Demo, you bet. Saturday.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21347303
> 
> 
> This my friend is unacceptable! No gaming until NEXT fall?



Well, I might be talking extreme, but kind of, yes. I think I'll get like a short session weekly, no more 5 hour sessions.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sold my CHT 18.1s to Technosponge. Going to a good home!


On the way to figuring out what I want to do re: subwoofers, demoing the quad pack of dual opposed MFW-15s that Desertdome and I built out for the GTG and then didn't actually get to test due to time and family constraints.


Michael was here and we played FOTP and WOW quick from the scuba steve demo disc....FOTP barrel roll was AWESOME. Just listened to some dub step and it was cranking.


No problem with displacement now, this setup effortlessly hits the low stuff...drivers hardly moving.


So far I'm not sure if they are as clean as the CHT drivers, so I'll have to listen to a bunch of music this week as well as some more movies.


----------



## W00lly

Greg


Whats been up in the Big 10 theater. Have you Upgraded your projector yet?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> Whats been up in the Big 10 theater. Have you Upgraded your projector yet?



I did get a benq w6000 last fall. Huge upgrade, though the dynamic iris may have me sending it in after the superbowl


----------



## W00lly

Whats going on? I had to shut the dynamic iris off on my panny as it would start to adjust in really dark scenes and get even darker


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Same thing with the dynamic iris here. And then the damn thing won't let me set a user preset with it off, it takes it off all of them. The look with it on is MUCH better.


Desertdome just configured my projector to finally run 1080/24 when I had it stuck on 1080/60. Wow is the new setting amazing for the picture with BDs.


I sold my CHT subs. Ordered in 2 UXL-18s and a LG clone FP14000. Will build a dual opposed, and if I like it, another set. The clone amp currently isn't working,and one of my drivers may have a voice coil rub internally that might have me sending it back if it doesn't self remedy. DIY is cheaper for performance, but I see why it takes a while. I'm having bad luck.


That said, the drivers look badass.


For mains, when we move in 2-3 years, I'm starting to look into the 7Pi from Parnam or the Catalyst from Seaton....or the DIY/Kit Seaton is working on that will utilize a AE 15" driver and waveguide design....


----------



## Mike_WI

Sounds great!


Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Got 1 UXL-18 in from istonline and sent to Josh Ricci of data-bass.com for testing. Results are being posted in my DIY build thread.


Other driver had something misaligned which was rubbing and sent back to IST at their cost to be fixed. Thanks Mark!


Amp is being picked up today from a local electronics shop. I tried to "so you not worry" as my chinese friends said that I ordered it from, but I didn't want to wait for them to ship THEIR parts over (even though it was free). Cost $120 here in Omaha to fix my Lab Gruppen Clone FP14000.


Updates later.


Cabinet designs in the works.


----------



## cb450r

Sweet, can't wait to see this project come together!


----------



## ImmortalJman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got 1 UXL-18 in from istonline and sent to Josh Ricci of data-bass.com for testing. Results are being posted in my DIY build thread.
> 
> 
> Other driver had something misaligned which was rubbing and sent back to IST at their cost to be fixed. Thanks Mark!
> 
> 
> Amp is being picked up today from a local electronics shop. I tried to "so you not worry" as my chinese friends said that I ordered it from, but I didn't want to wait for them to ship THEIR parts over (even though it was free). Cost $120 here in Omaha to fix my Lab Gruppen Clone FP14000.
> 
> 
> Updates later.
> 
> 
> Cabinet designs in the works.



Man you've become quite the speaker builder. Keep it up. I can't wait to see what you stick with.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ImmortalJman* /forum/post/21613681
> 
> 
> I can't wait to see what you stick with.



Ahahahahaha - you clearly haven't been following Greg as long as I have.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Hey now!


I'm done for a while after this little adventure. No, really.


You heard it here first folks.


----------



## ImmortalJman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ahahahahaha - you clearly haven't been following Greg as long as I have.



No, I know. It's just a little poke to see when he's going to be finished, cause when it is...it should be a spectacular sound







.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ImmortalJman* /forum/post/21614779
> 
> 
> No, I know. It's just a little poke to see when he's going to be finished, cause when it is...it should be a spectacular sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Based on the mostly good things I've been hearing from Ricci, at least per the performance expectations, if a pair of these can't top or equal dual Captivator Sealed after EQ I'll be disappointed!


----------



## NicksHitachi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same thing with the dynamic iris here. And then the damn thing won't let me set a user preset with it off, it takes it off all of them. The look with it on is MUCH better.
> 
> 
> Desertdome just configured my projector to finally run 1080/24 when I had it stuck on 1080/60. Wow is the new setting amazing for the picture with BDs.
> 
> 
> I sold my CHT subs. Ordered in 2 UXL-18s and a LG clone FP14000. Will build a dual opposed, and if I like it, another set. The clone amp currently isn't working,and one of my drivers may have a voice coil rub internally that might have me sending it back if it doesn't self remedy. DIY is cheaper for performance, but I see why it takes a while. I'm having bad luck.
> 
> 
> That said, the drivers look badass.
> 
> 
> For mains, when we move in 2-3 years, I'm starting to look into the 7Pi from Parnam or the Catalyst from Seaton....or the DIY/Kit Seaton is working on that will utilize a AE 15" driver and waveguide design....



Arent the 7 pi corner horns? Hows that work?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicksHitachi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Arent the 7 pi corner horns? Hows that work?



Yeah the more I'm looking at the options I'm crossing them out


----------



## yamahaSHO

Greg, sent you a PM.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Currently sub-less.


Sold the DCX.


Sold the Emotiva UPA-7.


Trying to sell the F-20s by spring.


After the sub project is finished the HT hobby is going dormant for a few years while we save for the next house and do the "debt snowball". (student loans are annoying).


----------



## stockmonkey2000

Good luck on the debt snowball. For many years my wife and I had an agreement that once we paid off the house and was completely out of debt I could build my dream theater. We really focused on it and knocked out everything except the house in no time at all. We paid off the house several years ago, but needed to do a lot of work on the house to get it livable. Once that house was done we sold it and moved into nicer paid for home in a less expensive neighborhood and had plenty left over for the theater.


It really is nice once you get to the point where you have no payments on anything. It really simplifies your life.


----------



## Iusteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the "debt snowball".



As in the "Dave Ramsey debt snowball"? Woohooo!!


So please tell us your not jumping completely out of the HT hobby club?!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Iusteve* /forum/post/21640556
> 
> 
> As in the "Dave Ramsey debt snowball"? Woohooo!!
> 
> 
> So please tell us your not jumping completely out of the HT hobby club?!



Yep, you got it.


My wife and I kind of did things backward, but then again we are only 30. We started heavy on investing/life insurance/kids college but our student loans (mostly mine) are sitting there at 6.8% because the government was smart and locked them there a few years ago.


Time to cut the toys out for a few years....I'm much worse than my wife. If only I wouldn't have finished the basement and built a fun theater!







It has been worth it to me and I think her (when she knows how to use it).


I won't disappear because I'll have a subwoofer system rivaling the best on the forums...so I'll have to take the show to different GTGs and such. But no audio/video upgrades (but I REALLY want to get killer mains) until the (hopefully) next house gets build in 2015/16.


I'll just be around learning.....


----------



## Iusteve

As long as you arent stripping your theater bare and selling off "all" your goodies then I will be fine with that (and you know what I think matters most! Right?!?!).


I used to listen to D. Ramsey all the time when in the car but for some reason he is not on any longer in my area (which pisses me off). I got my wife to listen a few times but she didn't pay a ton of attention. I think it was mainly because I am the one who handles our finances. I really bought into what he preaches/teaches and would LOVE to get on board but I am not sure where the best place to start is. Our (and by our I mean MY)biggest problem is those trusty credit cards.......I love to just put theater related goodies on the ole cc and let her ride, or my favorite is the paypal buyer credit.....good times. Anyway I do like "rice and beans" and "beans and rice".......


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Nah, not selling it all off. After I get my world class bass system set up, and buy measuring equipment, I'm only using what I have or replacing if something breaks.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

For those interested, check out my sub build to end all builds (for me at least). It is getting there...just waiting on the remaining supplies at this point.


Good progress and will be posting hi res pictures today of components.


Ordering my measuring equipment this week.


Will be using J River Media Center as my EQ/filters with REW.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sub project almost complete and probably how my front stage will look for a few years until I decide to upgrade mains or move to a different house and start all over again with a proper design.


----------



## NicksHitachi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/570#post_22228970
> 
> 
> Sub project almost complete and probably how my front stage will look for a few years until I decide to upgrade mains or move to a different house and start all over again with a proper design.


Man I love the look of those cones!  How come you didn't get the dust caps with the pretty logo!?  

 

Unless they were too shiny they wouldn't ever see grilles in my HT.......


----------



## Bunga99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/570#post_22228970
> 
> 
> Sub project almost complete and probably how my front stage will look for a few years until I decide to upgrade mains or move to a different house and start all over again with a proper design.



That looks menacingly cool yet very clean and compact! Great Job!!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicksHitachi*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/570#post_22229168
> 
> 
> Man I love the look of those cones!  How come you didn't get the dust caps with the pretty logo!?
> 
> 
> Unless they were too shiny they wouldn't ever see grilles in my HT.......


*The cones are the coolest I've seen barring the dustcap-less ones out there. They are really appealing to look at.*


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bunga99*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_22229723
> 
> 
> That looks menacingly cool yet very clean and compact! Great Job!!


*Thanks!

Yeah, I should have cleaned up and got the blue chair out of the picture. They are a perfect fit for my room. Should have all 4 (just 2 now) up and running in a week when I get my cables in.*



I hope to get a THX calibration of my projector/system by Luke Kamp then it is time to sit back and enjoy for a few years!


----------



## HuskerOmaha

 Omaha Theater Tour in October........ if you are in the area sign up!


----------



## BrolicBeast

You get the award for coolest Subwoofer name of 2012 and the 3rd greatest of all time. Next to Submersive (SeatonSound) and Captivator (JTR) Defibrillator is the next best name for a subwoofer I've ever come across. Any plans to shoot some video of that Omaha tour for those of use who are in lands far far away?


----------



## Mike_WI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/570#post_22228970
> 
> 
> Sub project almost complete and probably how my front stage will look for a few years until I decide to upgrade mains or move to a different house and start all over again with a proper design.



Looks good.


Hi.

I haven't check in for a long time.

Now working on my HT a little (lamp change and planned re-calibration - 1st since 2009) and planning for friend's HT's.


I am intrigued by the new Oppo offering...
*Official OPPO BDP-103/BDP-105 Anticipation Thread*
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1428214/official-oppo-bdp-103-bdp-105-anticipation-thread 


Don't know if I need/want to upgrade my BDP-83, but looking at for others.


- Mike


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrolicBeast*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_22387611
> 
> 
> You get the award for coolest Subwoofer name of 2012 and the 3rd greatest of all time. Next to Submersive (SeatonSound) and Captivator (JTR) Defibrillator is the next best name for a subwoofer I've ever come across. Any plans to shoot some video of that Omaha tour for those of use who are in lands far far away?



Thanks! They seem to have that effect on my chest when I'm really playing them. So far I've only had the amp @ 1/4 strength with all 4...about -5 on the AVR.

I'll have to wait until I have the house to myself and see what we have to work with!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike_WI*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_22389608
> 
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I haven't check in for a long time.
> 
> Now working on my HT a little (lamp change and planned re-calibration - 1st since 2009) and planning for friend's HT's.
> 
> I am intrigued by the new Oppo offering...
> *Official OPPO BDP-103/BDP-105 Anticipation Thread*
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1428214/official-oppo-bdp-103-bdp-105-anticipation-thread
> 
> Don't know if I need/want to upgrade my BDP-83, but looking at for others.
> 
> - Mike



Mike,


If you want to upgrade, I (myself) may have a buyer (myself) for your BDP-83, though I'm not sure I'd really need it.


I know visual is my next upgrade.....


I'm also planning on painting my ceiling mouse ears black before the HT tour in October.


Your HT still is in the back of my head for the next house. I like the have a firm design it.....


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Few Questions for ANYONE:


I have a bunch of can lights in my ceiling. I'm most likely going to paint my ceiling black here soon along with the lights.....any way to kill some of the resonance with more foam padding/etc on the bottoms of the can lights (that will press against the ceiling)?


What size TV would you recommend for my side wall? I'm looking around 40". Any GREAT DEALS at this time?


----------



## Franin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/570#post_22228970
> 
> 
> Sub project almost complete and probably how my front stage will look for a few years until I decide to upgrade mains or move to a different house and start all over again with a proper design.



That looks awesome I love the subs. Also I like the idea of the black around the screen thats a very good idea. Well done.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Added a 1000W dimmer to my 8 125W can lights in the theater area of the basement. I can finally dim the lights and am not standing on a ladder unscrewing them anymore!


Also painted the theater area ceiling black-finally. Had Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black, but had them add 3 oz more black to the gallon. Sprayed the can lights with a flat black meant for BBQ grills for the high temps.




http://imgur.com/CL6Jh.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




http://imgur.com/oWSKC.jpg%5B/IMG%5D




http://imgur.com/zNpLA.jpg%5B/IMG%5D



(Sorry, iphone pictures)


The reduced glare from movies that was occurring with the white ceiling is huge-I didn't think it would be that much of a difference to me.


I also had Parts Express send me a replacement Neutrik connector for my sub connections that was fault which took forever to find what the issue was.



Should be ready to go for the tour in a couple weekends.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Ceiling looks great, that has to have improved the experience a lot


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Sub project recently EQd. Check the UXL 18 thread linked in my signature.


----------



## jedimastergrant

Greg,


I really enjoyed your multi purpose room at the theater tour. I messed around with the idea of adding a bar to the back of my own but I just don't have the length for it.


What model numbers are your Monster Power units again? There is a used Monster Power HTS-3600 MKII for $150 here in KC.


And next time I come over I want the subs run with a house curve and then flat just for comparison sake. After looking at the Omnimic sweeps from the tour we can see that you were the only one who ran the bass flat. Even flat they were powerful though because standing far behind your bar my clothes were still flapping!


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jedimastergrant*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_22553567
> 
> 
> Greg,
> 
> 
> I really enjoyed your multi purpose room at the theater tour. I messed around with the idea of adding a bar to the back of my own but I just don't have the length for it.
> 
> 
> What model numbers are your Monster Power units again? There is a used Monster Power HTS-3600 MKII for $150 here in KC.
> 
> 
> And next time I come over I want the subs run with a house curve and then flat just for comparison sake. After looking at the Omnimic sweeps from the tour we can see that you were the only one who ran the bass flat. Even flat they were powerful though because standing far behind your bar my clothes were still flapping!



Grant,


Sorry I never got back to you on this-maybe I did via PM on the Moster Power stuff. I believe one is a 5100 and a voltage stabilizer 2000. I'll have to look again though.


The tour rocked and was fun...I have just enough space down there to make that setup work and it fits in the house well. I tried to run the bass flat on purpose to give the effect of what we are all told is the best, and it works pretty well in there since I have enough displacement.


You and carps threads are fun to read-back to that! I fixed my leaky sub and so I'm just sitting tight with my setup. I'd like some Noesis mains but I'm spending money on other stuff (student loans!!!!)


----------



## jedimastergrant

Ok, too weird that I have not been back to your thread since I wrote that post and then today I checked it and you basically just replied.


I still don't know what I will do with power conditioning, protection, etc. I have seen smart people here say that it is a good idea to have a ups for your projector to protect the bulb and just to get surge protectors for everything and that a cheap one will do. The only exception is if you have very expensive audio linear dacs and you may benefit from a power conditioner that puts out a sine wave. That is all over my head and they cost too much anyway so I will go with the ups and surge protectors for now. I don't know what kind yet.


I am probably only a few months away from finishing the room. I need to update my thread and plan to soon. Very busy with our 4 month old and 22 month old twins. They are into EVERYTHING! Note to self.......must use heavy duty door lock to keep them out of the theater!


----------



## jedimastergrant

Glad to hear the sub is fixed. Did the output or frequency response change significantly? Subjective changes?


I like that you ran the bass flat for comparison. The other rooms were run way too hot. It was fun for short demo purposes but I would not want that on a daily basis. I hope I have enough headroom to run flat down to the low teens but you never know till you fire it up in a certain space. I do want to try flat first. Then a house curve that increases the low end. Then I don't know from there but can't wait to be at that point.


I know what you are saying about the Noesis. I would love to upgrade my speakers so I have something worthy of my room but my HT cash will be depleted (got a little out of hand really) so I am going to roll with my existing Klipsch RF-83's for now and look forward to an upgrade in a year or so.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

Dropped the kids off at grandmas for a week of getting the wife into Game of Thrones and watching some movies that I have put off too long (Lincoln, Oz, etc) and POP goes the projector lamp.


Now I have to wait until Thursday - sad.


In other news I may put the house up for sale next spring or for sure the following so I'm stopping all HT expenditures in anticipation of designing 2.0.


I do need to upgrade the side TV..the 19" did not cut it once the lamp popped.


Anyone seen any great 40" plasma deals out there?


----------



## jedimastergrant

Now that is bad timing! Game of Thrones could be the first "tv"series I watch when my room is done(hopefully in a few months). I have need saving that one.


Very exciting to start to think about the possibilities of a new room. Are you tempted to go with a dedicated space this time? I can imagine that once you have a multi purpose large room great for hanging out with lots of people it would just be too hard to give up to get a small dark cave instead.


Btw your theater tour last year inspired me to buy The Art of Flight to show off my room. I just received it this week.


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jedimastergrant*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_23589587
> 
> 
> Now that is bad timing! Game of Thrones could be the first "tv"series I watch when my room is done(hopefully in a few months). I have need saving that one.
> 
> 
> Very exciting to start to think about the possibilities of a new room. Are you tempted to go with a dedicated space this time? I can imagine that once you have a multi purpose large room great for hanging out with lots of people it would just be too hard to give up to get a small dark cave instead.
> 
> 
> Btw your theater tour last year inspired me to buy The Art of Flight to show off my room. I just received it this week.



Depending on the floor plan and if we decide to stay in the city limit area or get an acreage...then I'll know if I'll have a dedicated space.


I'm more likely to do a larger dedicated open area where up to 20-30 people would have an angle to the screen...think like 3 times as wide as my current setup or more...


I'll be doing AT no matter what and probably a couple feet longer diameter.


I need to come down to KC once all your rooms are done...good stuff you guys are doing!


Game of Thrones is AMAZING.


----------



## HuskerOmaha

My next HT:


----------



## jedimastergrant

Great setup but where would the kegerator be placed?


----------



## HuskerOmaha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jedimastergrant*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/600#post_23597021
> 
> 
> Great setup but where would the kegerator be placed?



Good point. Speaking of kegarators, I think I'm sold on one in the next basement.


Just not sure whether to get pony size or full size capable.....hmmm


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## Archaea

Saw you may order two more subs? Better do four more to keep up with all the crazies around here!


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## Archaea

Or maybe two more uxl-18 drivers in a couple of ghorns and call it a day. Use your four sealed for room smoothing.


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## Scott Simonian

Hell yeah.


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## thrillcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HuskerOmaha*  /t/1297916/huskeromahas-basement-theater/330#post_19994169
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How could that hold an 80 lb LCD vertical if you didn't want it tilted?



I realize this is 3 years old, but if you would've just flipped that mount 180 degrees, the weight of the speaker pulling on it would've actually tightened the mount instead of pulling it looser, which probably would've solved your issue.


If you need anything else, just let me know and I'll do what I can a few years late.


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## HuskerOmaha

Want to buy my house?


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## HuskerOmaha

House is sold, as is the basement. 

I kept all of my rack and equipment and subs - I let them keep the speakers/screen/projector.

Sad day, great memories, onwards and upwards.

Working on having a nice great room setup in new house until I can finish off the basement in new house.


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## Matman1970

Congrats on moving......

Glad you kept your UXLs. I have two on order in the current group buy...might be awhile before they are ready. 

My father passed away last year and I kept his SHO-10's but got rid of the CHT CS 18's. Down the road I think I will get some Tempests and move the SHO-10s to surround duty. 

Once I have the UXL's, I will need to chooses an amp and I want to be able to power 4 of these at some point. How is your clone working? I am thinking of buying the Bossobass modified version.


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## HuskerOmaha

Matman1970 said:


> Congrats on moving......
> 
> Glad you kept your UXLs. I have two on order in the current group buy...might be awhile before they are ready.
> 
> My father passed away last year and I kept his SHO-10's but got rid of the CHT CS 18's. Down the road I think I will get some Tempests and move the SHO-10s to surround duty.
> 
> Once I have the UXL's, I will need to chooses an amp and I want to be able to power 4 of these at some point. How is your clone working? I am thinking of buying the Bossobass modified version.


Amp was being great, its packed up now. I'll find out if it is still golden in a little over a month when everything gets re-setup in the new house. I'm not finishing out the basement for some time.

I think you would be very happy with the clone.


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## HuskerOmaha

HuskerOmaha said:


> Amp was being great, its packed up now. I'll find out if it is still golden in a little over a month when everything gets re-setup in the new house. I'm not finishing out the basement for some time.
> 
> I think you would be very happy with the clone.


Clone still pumping the wattage. No issues.


No overdoing it on the drivers, plays anything I throw at it.


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## Scott Simonian

_"Anything"_, eh?


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