# Blazing Ridge Cinema construction has begun!



## chinadog











(Thanks Joe!)

_*Bud's latest theater build can be found here: Chinadog's Tennessee Theater *_



Well, after about 6 months, countless hours of reading and 300+ posts, I'm finally getting around to starting my construction thread!


First, I wanted to thank all the folks that have responded to my questions and posts. I really appreciate all the advice here. I'm amazed at the depth of knowledge (and patience) that I've found on this forum. You guys have been extremely helpful and I couldn't have done it without your advice. Thanks again!


Second, I wanted to thank my father-in-law for flying down from Connecticut to spend 6 solid days doing electrical work. Thanks Jack! I also wanted to thank my Dad for helping me with the framing. Thanks Pop!


The HT room will be in the basement. As I'm sure I mentioned before, I'm finishing off the whole basement at one time. At least I've started this way, anyway. I have almost 1400 square feet to work with, but am finishing around 1200, including the HT room, concession area, full bathroom, a good sized bar and a game/pool room. I would love to have it all done by the end of the year, but it depends on time and money (doesn't everything?).


The HT room is roughly 19x11.5x9. I'll have an equipment closet just outside the HT room, with a MA Slim5. I plan on a 7.1 system. The concession area is big enough to put in some cabinets, microwave and maybe a counter popcorn machine. On the other side of the equipment closet I'll have enough room for DVD storage.


The equipment decisions are still being researched. I was planning on going the Panasonic AE700, but am concerned about lamp life. I've also considered the InFocus SP5700. Jury is still out on the projector. I'd like to go with the Yamaha RXV2500. I'll have to get a new DVD player to boot, but have not had time to figure out what yet. As far as speakers as concerned, I'm thinking of going with the Ascends for the front and getting in-walls for the surrounds. I'm thinking Jamos based on a friends recommendation, but have not heard them yet. I feel the room is not big enough for columns and I'd like the speakers completely hidden.


I'm going to go with about a 100 inch screen. I plan on two rows of seating (lounger types), the second on a riser. The number of seats will depend on size of the seats. The first row will be around 11 feet from the screen. The second row will be close to the back wall, unfortunately. I purchased my Aura shakers already and an old Kenwood to power them.


As far as room construction and isolation is concerned, I'll be insulating the walls and ceiling and using solid core doors. I don't have any bedrooms on the first floor, so noise containment is not a huge issue. I do plan on using linacoustic, batting and GOM.


At this point, I finished all the framing of walls, closets, bar and soffits. All the plumbing, HVAC and electrical rough-in work is completed. I have run all the HT speaker wire, RG6 and CAT6 (except for the IR CAT6). I still have some speaker wire to run to the bar/game room for audio there. I've just ordered some cables today to run to the projector. I have conduit installed already. I'll be doing all the drywall, mud and trim myself.


I've got some pictures in the link in my signature. I've done quite a bit since then, but need to put new pictures out there. I'll have that done shortly. Things will slow down next week, I'll be on vacation, but will start up again hot and heavy shortly after that.


BTW, the name of our theater came from the name of our road... Blazing Ridge Way in case you were wondering...


Thanks again!


Bud

*EDIT on 1-03-2010 (adding self promoting accolades







):


Blazing Ridge Cinema and basement featured in Electronic House magazine - DIYer Transforms Entire Basement in both electronic and print versions!


Blazing Ridge Cinema featured on volume VI of Home Theater Revealed DVD series*


*Finished teaser shot added on March 1, 2008*









Over the next few weeks I plan on building an index of this thread since it's grown beyond belief. I'll try and hit where specifically I did things of interest and links to products I used. Might take a while. Hopefully it'll help folks find things more easily.

*LAST INDEX EDIT on 03/01/08*


Takes a second to open a new window or tab and another second or so to move to the post.

*INDEX*


Installation, techniques and tips:


1. Middle Atlantic thermal management info 

2. Drywall Lift from ebay 

2a. IR Repeater plan - Buffalo IR 

3. Rack construction 

4. Speaker selection - Ascend 340SE and Sonance S622TRs. Speaker Layout 

5. Drywall corners 

6. Carlon Adjustable boxes and More Carlon uninstalled boxes 

6a. Outdoor movie screen 

7. Drywall tools 

8. Initial bar design 

9. Slanted soffits and light trey 

10. Covering the HT windows 

11. Linacoustic 

12. Riser started and Bullnose wood lip for riser and profile of bullnose trim 

13. Riser step light 

14. Stage construction 

15. 1st projector hang and Chief mount replacement 

16. Carada screen 

17. Ascend Acoustic 340SEs 

18. Stage design and lip for stage 

19. Screen wall framing, furring and linacoustic installed 

20. Solid Pine doors installed 

21. Trim in the gameroom 

22. Scrim installed 

23. More Furring and GOM prep 

24. Beginnings of the Projector box 

25. Panels for screen wall 

26. Screen wall panel meets wall 

27. Color combos 

28. Acoustic cotton T pins 

29. Soffit and Screen wall - GOM Part I , Part II , Part III , Part IV , Part IV cont 

30. GOM Side and rear wall , and more , and more , and still more 

31. GOM beveled edges 

32. GOM detailed instructions and GOM Lessons Learned 

33. Harmony 880 integration 

34. Screenwall panel details and more 

35. Home Theater stained crown 

36. Unfinshed projector box on slides 

37. Buds light automation with the X10 - Poor mans Lutron GE 

38. Berkline seat options - Ended up with option A - 090s in this config and more options, includes 088s layout and finally curved row options 

39. Carpet selection 

40. Projector box is GOMed and front cover almost complete. 

41. Stained casing for HT doors, base molding and riser lip and stained crown in HT room and concession area 

42. Staining tips , Stained door for equipment closet , entrance door and remaining doors 

43. Jamb saw rental from HD 

44. Dupont laminate flooring in gameroom 

45. Begin carpet install and problems with Home Depot 

46. Paint in the gameroom 

47. Almost finished Dupont laminate floor installed in gameroom and more flooring 

48. Bar floor 

49. Finished out rack 

50. Carpet finished finally 

51. Berkline 090s arrived and installed 

52. Updated rack and back of rack and what equipment is in the rack 

53. Poly or no Poly? 

54. Left and right screen panels and Center Panel/Sub panels 

55. Final panels done and screen wall shots 

56. Approximate estimated and actual costs - at the time 

57. Gameroom and bar lighting 

58. Ticket window plan and starting window construction . Stained window and ticket window lettering. Plexiglass and speaker hole cover installed . Finished ticket window! 

59. First game room decor 

60. Under counter bar fridge 

61. Bar cabinets arrive and installed cabinets 

62. Front of the bar design , wall frame calculator by VorlonFog , Front of bar begins , building with a Kreg jig , unfinished panels done and corbels arrive 

63. New Hsu sub arrives 

64. Granite being installed and completed 

65. Stained bar and corbels installed. A few finished shots of the bar 

66. Studor vent for bar 

67. Projector box finally complete 

68. Poster light box design and construction concept. Beginning of inner box construction , finished inner boxes. 

69. Attaching outer box to poster frame. Hung inner poster boxes and posters installed, but no lights yet. Rope lights installed in poster boxes and how to install the rope light. 

70. White plexiglass for diffuser arrived and installed. Finished light boxes. Estimate to build boxes. 

71. LG LCD installed behind the bar 

72. Now Showing DVD case stand 

73. Concession sign from eBay and my Photoshop sign 

74. Candy rack 

75. Sign printed by Kinko 

76. Finished frame, finished concession sign. 

77. Marquee Sign done in Photoshop and color variations 

78. Building the Mylar light box and finished outer mylar box 

79. Panoramic shots of theater and concession area using Autostitch 

80. Bar stools 

81. Bar lighting using rope light 

82. Nutone inline fan for projector box 

83. Concession area fridge, finished mylar box, light floor rack, and new shiny trash can . Lighting for mylar box 

84. Shed framing 

85. Gameroom movie posters (not quite level either) 

86. Wireless Wii Sensor bar for screen placement 

87. Chad's theater room build (The CG Family Theater) that Jason and I helped design and build out.


Products used and where I got stuff:


1. Blazing Ridge Cinema theater intro 

2. Porter Cable 3-1/2" Clipped-Head Framing Nailer 

3. Drywall lift from ebay - replace the asterisks in the invalid URL with ebay .com 

4. Drywall panel carrier from Amazon 

5. 150 ft spool of frosted white rope light from Novelty Lights 

6. Buffalo Electronics IR Repeater components from Automated Outlet 

7. Step lights from Pro Lighting 

8. Speaker wire from PE: 12 AWG 2C Carol Architectural Speaker Cable 500 ft. CL3R , RG6: RG-6/U Coaxial Cable 500 ft. 

9. Sonance speakers and Sonance Symphony (622s no longer on the site) 

10. Excel movie ticket generator 

11. Inner and outer drywall corners from Home Depot 

12. Carlon single and double gang adjustable electrical boxes from Home Depot 

12.a For the single gang boxes in the riser with carpet, I used ReceptXtender electrical box extenders (they care a variety of depths in single and double gang) 

13. Hsu Research VTF-MK2 sub 

14. Since the Yamaha link no longer works, here is the replacement model, the RX-V2700. 

15. Ascend 340SEs (Left and Right channels) and the Ascend 340SE Center channel 

16. Doors for HT room and the rest of basement 

17. Panasonic DVD-S97 - Audioholics review, purchased directly through Panasonic with a company discount 

18. Stain grade case, base and crown molding in the North Atlanta area . Other moldings from Home Depot and a builder neighbor.

19. Linacoustic purchased from a local NB Handy 

20. Middle Atlantic Racks and Shelves from Worthington 

21. Middle Atlantic Slim 5-43 from BSWUSA.com 

22. Carada 104 Inch Diagonal Criterion 1.78 to 1 in Classic Cinema White 

23. Panasonic PT-AE900U from Visual Apex 

24. First mount was a Peerless PRS-UNV-B: Universal Ceiling Mount- Black and the second mount was a Chief RPA-225 from Bright and Sleek.

25. Magnetic speaker grill guides from Parts Express 

26. Middle Atlantic LBP-1A L Shaped Lacing Bars 10 Pcs. 

27. Smarthome: 50ft Emitter and IR Sensor Extension Cable 

28. Acoustic cotton, scrim from Bryan Pape (bpape) at Sensible Sound Solutions 

29. Temperature switch for equipment closet fan and projector box fan from Home Depot, Internet/Catalog# 100098472, Store SKU# 144967 

30. Home Depot 5/4" Corner Board SKU - used this for furring/GOM 

31. Guilford of Maine (GOM) FR701 2100 in 408 (black) for screen wall and soffits, Style Code:2858 Style:Lido - 2858 (Formerly 2838) Color Name: Pine Valley for the other walls

32. 1" fabricmate track from Fabricmate.com

33. Rosewood wood based stain on doors and trim in HT room - used Pre-conditioner on pine 

34. 27 x 40 inch poster frames from FrameUSA.com in 2" corporate wide style 

35. 27 x 40 inch movie posters from movieposter.com 

36. Professional plastics white plexiglass - (SACR.1252447E) .125 THICK WHT #2447 EXTRUDED ACRYLIC - 40.125 x 27.125 @+/- 0.062 

37. Hollywood Post Frames for 11x17 Classic Horror movies 

38. Monoprice tilted LCD/Plasma mount 

39. Changed out the mount to a Peerless Flat Wall Mount - Model PF660P purchased from Best Price Mounts .

40. Toshiba HD-A2 HD DVD player from Amazon 

41. Concession sign "made by Bud" in Photoshop - printed at a local FedEx Kinkos 

42. Barstools from Garden Ridge 

43. Sony Cybershot DSC-W55 from Amazon 

44. Magic Chef under counter fridge (times two) from Home Depot

45. Nutone 4" inline fan for projector box from Unitron 

46. Emerson .9 cu. ft. Microwave - Stainless Steel/ Red 

47. Wirelss Wii sensor bar from Amazon. 

48. Nextronics AC powered Wii Sensor Bar for home theaters 

49. Ticket window speaker thingie - Stainless Steel Louvered vent from Boaters World 


Bud


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## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The HT room will be in the basement. As I'm sure I mentioned before, I'm finishing off the whole basement at one time. At least I've started this way, anyway. I have almost 2000 square feet to work with, but am finishing around 1400, including the HT room, concession area, full bathroom, a good sized bar and a game/pool room. I would love to have it all done by the end of the year, but it depends on time and money (doesn't everything?).
> 
> 
> Bud



Wow, this sounds really familiar. I'm doing the whole basement and sub basement all at once too. And my theater dimentions are pretty spot to yours. (Cubic volume)

15x19x7.5


I'm also doing a bar area, a bath room and theater. The only difference is I'm putting another bed room in instead of a pool area. I'd rather go your route. 


Strangely enough, my least favorite part so far has been the insulation. It took me about a month and a half to get past it. I got framing, electrical, plumbing, and drywall hung in that much time. ^_^


And the money permitting part, I can totally sympathize with that. Who would've thought something like green glue could cost as much as a good center speaker? 


Just remember though, don't skimp, just wait and save if you hit a block. Once a room is built, there's not much chance of you tearing it down and doing it again anytime soon. Unless you're like Art S. 


And oh yeah, where'd you get such nice straight 2x4's? And how'd you get that floor so clean looking? ^_^


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## chinadog

Chirpie,


Thanks for the reply. Sounds like we have a race going on. I have a copy of the basement floor plan, I'll have to post that for comparison reasons.


I figured the money I'm saving doing a lot of the work myself gives me the opportunity to put some extra money into the extras. I like that idea. People think I'm nuts for doing drywall myself, but with a friend and a lift, its not hard. I'd spend the case and upgrade equipment or something else.


I got most of my lumber from HD. I have a neighbor who is a builder, I got about 100 2x4s delivered through him, but it wasn't as clean. Free delivery, but no cheaper.


Ah, the floor. Man, I had a lot of junk from the move still (it'll be two years in August), but we managed to have a few tag/garage sales and donated a bunch of stuff. I really try and keep the floor clear. I end up sweeping up after working every time so I'm not tripping on things. To my amazement, the builder painted the basement floor before we moved in. It keeps the dust down and gives it a nice clean look as well.


Good luck on your theater!


Bud


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## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Chirpie,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Sounds like we have a race going on. I have a copy of the basement floor plan, I'll have to post that for comparison reasons.
> 
> 
> I figured the money I'm saving doing a lot of the work myself give me the opportunity to put some extra money in the extras. I like that idea. People think I'm nuts for doing drywall myself, but with a friend and a lift, its not hard. I'd spend the case and upgrade equipment or something else.
> 
> 
> I got most of my lumber from HD. I have a neighbor who is a builder, I got about 100 2x4s delivered through him, but it wasn't as clean. Free delivery, but no cheaper.
> 
> 
> Ah, the floor. Man, I had a lot of junk from the move still (it'll be two years in August), but we managed to have a few tag/garage sales and donated a bunch of stuff. I really try and keep the floor clear. I end up sweeping up after working every time so I'm not tripping on things. To my amazement, the builder painted the basement floor before we moved in. It keeps the dust down and gives it a nice clean look as well.
> 
> 
> Good luck on your theater!
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks, you too. I'll be labeled a nut for years to come, but I really don't mind the drywalling all that much. It's the part of construction where you finally feel like real progress is happening as it turns into a (somewhat ^_^) livable space.


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## bpape

Good luck on your project(s). Sounds like you have a good plan and lots of help to get things moving. Just don't get anxios and forget the plan. Before you cover anything, think and then think again what you might need behind something, between something, changing something, etc.


Keep us informed as to your progress. We love pics by the way...


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## brickie

Congrats Guys!!make Sure To Post Alot Of Pictures.


Brickie


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## Rutgar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brickie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats Guys!!make Sure To Post Alot Of Pictures.
> 
> 
> Brickie



Yes! We always like Pics!


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## chinadog

Thanks guys. I'll be posting more pictures tomorrow actually. I'll be taking plenty. I took about 500+ when the house was being built. Its already paid off, before I put in one of those in wall iron board closet things for my wife in the laundry room, we were able to look at the pictures to make sure there was nothing in the walls to worry about. I recommend doing this for everyone building a house. It'll pay off later.


Bud


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## chinadog

OK, took a few pictures tonight and posted them in the album. Here are a few highlights.


Here's a shot of the top of my equipment closet. I had a few sheets of drywall, so I started there.










Here's a shot of the ceiling with the main cans, the 4 inch stage lights in the soffit and the cove we built for the rope lighting.










Shot of the X10 dimmers to control scenes. These will work with a remote (using an IR543) and a controller mounted by the theater entrance.










View of the bar from the back entrance.










Bar/game room lighting:










Thats it for now. There's a bunch more in the album.


Bud


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## heartsurgeon

some advice:


if possible, have some A/C or outstanding airflow present in your equipment closet,,,i have an rx-v2500 and it generates massive amounts of heat..


second...check out etronics 

for your yamaha rx-v2500.....i got mine there and thoughtthe price was pretty good.


as for speakers..this setup and price is simply amazing...i got the same system and paid $700 more....unbelievable price, great system..
sound distributors 


best of luck! looks like a great setup.


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## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *heartsurgeon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> some advice:
> 
> 
> if possible, have some A/C or outstanding airflow present in your equipment closet,,,i have an rx-v2500 and it generates massive amounts of heat..



Heartsurgeon,


Thanks for the heads up and the info. I don't plan to put a glass door on the front of the rack and will include both venting panels on the front of the rack and will probably go with a vented door. I'm hoping that will allow enough air flow over the components. Cinemascope posted a great Middle Atlanta document in another ventilation thread. The document is here:

MIddle Atlantic thermal management info 


I need to go through it a little more thoroughly, but there are some great points here.


Here's the other thread. I originally planned on tieing the ductwork from the closet to the bathroom duct that leads out of the side of the house, but decided to change that after a few interesting posts!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=546843 


Bud


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## chinadog

Hmmm. The pictures I had here before somehow disappeared. They were a little larger (high resolution), did a break some rule or something? Looks like the links were still correct, just no pictures. I put back the original smaller ones. Anyone know?


Bud


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## dc_pilgrim

I don't know, but the in thread pics were very helpful. Hope you keep doing it as the project progresses. Looks like a good one. Congrats.


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## chinadog

Dave,


I'm no Clarence, but will do my best!







Thanks!


Bud


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## chinadog

This came in the mail a few minutes ago. Another eBay find. A little premature to hang up since I'm a few months out, but it still looks cool nonetheless!


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## heartsurgeon

sounds like you've got the heat issue well in hand.


i have a htpc mounted in a rack along with 9 large hard drives, a yamaha rx-v2500 and a buttkicker amp....by far the yamaha produces the most heat, followed by the hard drives...i've ended up with a rather robust fan system to keep the heap cooled off..the challenge of course is to cool the beasties without making alot of noise....


funny how this "hobby" is becoming very similar to owning a sailboat...

pouring lots of money into a black hole....

but once you start, you just can't stop until you've got it beat!


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## dc_pilgrim

Bud, Clarence was exactly who I was thinking of when I was commenting. All the money and energy is going towards the arrival of our daughter in September, so planning and vicariously following the construction threads is all I got for now.


It looks like you've angled your soffit's side? Is that so that the rope light will give an effect or for accoustical reasons? Looks cool.


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## chinadog

heartsurgeon,


I hope I have the heat issue licked. We'll see. I agree, I think I'll be bored stiff once the work is done!


Dave,


Congrats on your daughter. We've got a 4 year old daughter and soon to be a six year old son. Both are waiting patiently for the basement to be complete.


Yes, I angled it. I think it'll look cool when its done. I was going to do just crown molding, but always liked the look of cove lighting, so I decided to take the best of both worlds. My father-in-law and I had fun cutting the corner angles! Basically we used 2x4s to frame it out, with those cripples cut at 60 degrees. We then added 3/4 plywood to finish the other side. I thought about doing a 45 angle, but after one cut, thought it was two steep, so we went to a 60 degree angle. I plan on putting linacoustic under the soffit and covering it with black GOM. The GOM will get pulled up over the angled plywood and stapled inside the cove. I'm not sure if I should cover the plywood with linacoustic or just drywall before GOM, but that's a little ways out. Anyone have any recommendations? I may take the plywood down and round over the corners just so the GOM doesn't snag on the wood.


Here are a couple of closeups. The second is tough because you're looking up from the bottom (and its sort of blurry).


















Bud


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## Clarence




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. The pictures I had here before somehow disappeared. They were a little larger (high resolution), did a break some rule or something? Looks like the links were still correct, just no pictures. I put back the original smaller ones. Anyone know?
> 
> 
> Bud



If the fotki server doesn't respond before the AVS server generates the page, you'll get the red X's for your inline pictures. But if you right click on the Red X and "Show Picture" it'll usually load.


The small red text markups are hard to read. The yellow is better. Maybe bump up the font size.


I had a lot of fun documenting my HT progress and received a lot of good feedback and constructive tips from you guys as I went along.


Your HT is coming along nicely.


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## chinadog

Clarence, thanks.


With the bigger pictures, the font size was ok. You're right, the red needs to go though. There were no red Xs even. The pictures looked as expected last night, but when I check this am, no picture, no X, no links. When I edited the reply this am, the image links were there still.


Here's what I uploaded. Hopefully it'll stay this time.



















Bud


EDIT: Clarence, I use Firefox most of the time, which is why I did not see red Xs. I just checked IE and sure enough they're there. The pictures I reference ("Here's what I uploaded....") are not being displayed at the moment in this reply, but they are in the other reply now. No clue whats up with these pictures!


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## Clarence

Still looks like fotki is bogging down.

I like the free image hosting at http://imageshack.us


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## chinadog

Yeah, I just noticed that. they were there a second ago!


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## johnson_sb

Chinadog,


Congrats on your progress so far. Everything looks fantastic. I'm way behind you (still framing), but also in the process of finishing my entire basement and HT. We will have a workshop, excercise room, kitchenette, half bath, and of course the theater. Mine will be a similar size to yours, 19'x13'6"x9'.


I see that you are still considering a couple of different PJs (which do have overlapping throw ranges). But, do you plan on doing anything special to provide for future PJs that may require a shorter or longer throw? I went through all of your construction pictures but couldn't see exactly how your conduit is routed to the projector, or where it ends.


BTW, your basement has to be the cleanliest construction site I have ever seen!


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## chinadog

Steve,


Hey, what can I say, I'm a little anal!


The conduit is actually routed to the back wall. The front of the back soffit is about 13 feet, the back obviously at 19. I may still end up hanging the projector at around 15 feet to support the minimum length of both of these projectors, instead of the back wall for that very reason. Both the AE700 and the SP700 support 100 inch diagonal at 15 feet (although the AE700 is much more flexible and projects 100 inches from as little as 10 feet, whereas 15 feet is minimum for the SP5700).


If I end up switching projectors later, I may end up limiting myself at 19 or even 15 feet. I just need to make a decision and run with it. I'd like it in the back since I don't want people banging their heads walking across the riser. The bottom of the soffit is 8 feet, add a riser and ceiling mount under the soffit and that space goes away quickly.


Attached is the drawing I did before on this subject (I started a thread somewhere on the ideal location) and the throw info for the two projectors.


Bud


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## chinadog

Well, just back from Orlando on vacation and there were a few deliveries waiting for me, mostly wiring (extra cat 6, speaker wire, RG6 and some cables from pccables.com). Heading down to the basement this afternoon to do some more work. Looking forward to getting back into it....


Bud


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## chinadog

My father was here yesterday, he handed me a coupon for Home Depot for 10% purchases over 299 or something like that, so I'm heading out to buy some drywall and insulation this afternoon. I figure the savings will be enough to cover 60 sheets of drywall delivered and I can start at least the gameroom/bar area until I finalize a few things in the HT room. The coupon expires tomorrow, so at least I'll have it when I really fire up the drywall work soon.


Bud


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## Bondsan

Hey Bud...


I also will look forward to your progress. My theater will begin rennovation (reconstruction) about the 1st of October and it's amazing how similar a lot of basement theaters are. Mine will be 13.5' wide by 20.0' long but will only have 7.0' ceilings. My ceiling is drywalled and heavily textured with a number of recessed cans (several I will have to move slightly which is not easy). I figure on 6-7 months construction. I'll post before and during pictures when I get started. Good luck.


Bondsan


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## chinadog

Bondsan,


Thanks. I started the basement in November of last year really. I had to get everything in order before I could start the "good stuff". I needed to first get my workshop in order since I had tools everywhere. Second, I had to get everything off the floor (hence the clean construction area!). I had a storage room that we did the electric and drywall in, then I was able to move everything into there in preparation for construction. Once I got all the dependencies completed on the critical path (rough in work basically), I was able to start making some good progress. I figure it'll take me a good 4-6 weeks to do the drywall part time, although as I mentioned, I need to finalize the projector and speaker placement of my surrounds. once thats done, things should go pretty smoothly from there.


Good luck on your adventure!


Bud


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## chinadog

Clarence,


I was able to modify my settings on my account to show bigger pictures. I also updated the few tough to read photos with red text to yellow. I think I should be good, assuming Fotki stays up...


Bud


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## Bondsan

Bud...


Amazing how we think alike! This last weekend I spent getting my shop in shape for the new project. Got new Kobalt rolling cabinets from Lowe's and loaded them up and will label them tonight. Got to know where everything is.


Bondsan


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## chinadog

Bondsan,


Cool. Those cabinets are nice. My father-in-law and I did the electrical and put up drywall, built a bench, put up heavy duty (the grey stuff) Closetmaid shelving, and put up a few of the white cabinets over the bench from the Depot. That was the Thanksgiving weekend project. After that, I decided it was time to purchase a framing nailer before I continued. It sure came in handy (insert Tim Allen grunt here), since I've gone through like 6000 nails already.


More info on the nailer here:

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=11542 


Bud


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## chinadog

Just got back from Home Depot. I ordered 70 sheets of drywall and some insulation. Going to be delivered on Friday! I know what I'll be doing this weekend!


Bud


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## chinadog

I priced out the rental of a drywall lift at Home Depot, I think it was like 36.00 a day. Since I'm doing the whole basement, that was not going to fly. I tried to call a local tool rental place, but they were apparently closed when I called. Sooooo, being the impulse guy I am, I bought one on ebay last night. There was three hours left on the auction, so I put my bid in through eSnipe and found out I won it this morning. ~120.00 plus shipping (like 100.00). So for about 220, I can keep it as long as I need it, probably two months or so then I'll resell it back on ebay (unless someone here is interested). I'll let you know how it works out.


Bud


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## chinadog

Well, what have I gotten myself into?







Actually, this is better than therapy (at least you get a physical workout!). Home Depot just dropped off the drywall and insulation this AM. I'll drag the insulation down later today when its cools down a little. Let the fun begin!




















Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Looks pretty cool, Bud. 10% off really gets you to move! How long until the lift arrives?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


The timing was good, I'm pretty much at that point and now I'm ready to rock! They said the lift would ship within three days of payment, so it may be on its way already. I'm hoping it'll be here next week. Would have been nice to have it for this weekend, but I've got enough stuff (insulation) to keep me busy for a while.


BTW, the 10% was the incentive for having the stuff delivered. It basically covered that cost plus a little. Not sure I wanted to make a 10 trips for drywall in the Suburban, although I probably would have bought the stuff in another week or two and paid shipping regardless!


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

Oh, yes you will.







You will have plenty to do. Just carrying the drywall to the theater area will be a pretty good work out for you.


Craig


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Don't get me wrong, I definitely hustle for a deal. That being said, covering deliver is a worthy deal indeed. Good to know there will be some progress pics to follow in the coming weeks. Have a good holiday.


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Yes, for sure. I ordered a pair of drywall carriers, those things that help you get a grip when you carry it. I bought TWO in case I can get one of my neighbors to help. I tried all sorts of gizmos I made to me ro help carry drywall with limited success. I'm hoping these will do the trick. Not bad for $6.00 a piece. I may carry a few down to finish out the equipment rack this week and then focus on insulation the rest of the weekend until the carriers come.











Dave,


I'll be posting pics for sure. Actually with purchases of 299, you get no payments/interest for 6 months as well. I'll go ahead and pay it off, but its nice to have the option!


All,


Have a great and safe Fourth!


Bud


----------



## hammondc

i have a coupon for you


----------



## hammondc

Sorry for the one-liner, I had to get to 5 posts before I can post a URL


I have been looking around on this site for a couple months now, planning my upgrades. Figured I fianlly have something to chime in on.....


FYI, if you have a Lowes near you, FILL OUT THIS FORM on their website. They will send a 10% off any purchase coupon to your *email*. Use some BS address if you want. Print out as necessary. I have used the same one about 10 times at my local lowes. You can sign up for the same thing at Home Depot. They mail theirs though - - one use only.


My local home depot used to take the lowes coupons too. Haven't been in a while because Lowes is like 1 mile away.


This site is awesome, you guys rock. Thanks for all the info!!


----------



## chinadog

Hammond,


Thanks, will take a look. HD and Lowes are pretty much across the street from each other.


All,


Most of my insulation is done. Turns out I ordered WAY too much, but I can just return it. I had a question on used faced insulation with IC rated cans. I'm concerned about the paper touching the can. It says on the wrapping that the paper is flammable and do not leave it exposed. I started this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=555572 and was hoping to get an answer so I can finish up the last few bays. Oh and take more pictures of course!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Done for today. Spent a few hours yesterday with my Dad and a few hours this AM doing insulation. I have a few more hours of insulation in the HT room, then when the lift is delivered I'll start working on the ceiling in the game room. I still need to make a decision on the projector, when thats done I can finalize cables, positioning drywall and finally begin drywall.


Front wall:










Side wall and entrance to the theater:










Ceiling:










Back wall:










Shot from the game room:










Looks like I still have plenty of installation left, in fact, I'll return all of the R-13 since I have more than enough R-19 left. Each one of those R-19 bundles contains eight batts, so there's 32 left there, plus a few in the HT room on the floor. I bought the R13 thinking I was going to use it in the soffits, but changed my mind.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

More insulation yesterday, I'm now about 90+% done with the insulation. Drywall lift should be here this week. I think this week will slow down for the next two weeks though. My wife has quarter end close related work to do and I've have to keep the kids out of her hair this week and weekend (we both work out of the house). Next week I'll be in class a few days out of town as well.


I'm playing around with ne IR repeater placement and decided to put it in the front of the cove, I may end up putting it in the ceiling if it doesn't work out where it is. The other will be under the screen somewhere.


Forgot to make the font huge in these pics (its already at 16 point), but you get the point. The wood is at 60 degrees and is a good angle towards the seats.



















Bud


----------



## chirpie

Wait, they delivered the drywall to the inside of your garage?!


No one would do that around here even with a signed waiver! I had to carry all 120 sheets in the moment they showed up! (It was misting-turning into rain. Argh!)


----------



## chinadog

Chirpie,


Yup! Signed a waiver (for the driveway damage) when I bought it. I also wrote on the paperwork, "garage delivery". My driveway is like 200 feet long, so no way I was lugging it down. The guy just used a forklift and dropped it right where you see it (still there by the way). Of course I tipped the guy, although he didn't know that when I asked him to bring it down the driveway. Good thing too, it rained about an hour after that. Now to get it down to the basement....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just a quick update.


Still waiting on the drywall lift. I actually thought it would be here by now, but its not. I did get my drywall carriers, so I plan on moving some drywall this weekend. Looks like they'll work out great.


Borrowed an Optoma projector from a friend and hooked it up last night and watched Sky Captain and Birth. I had an old pair of Infinity speakers I used as the front channels and some in ceiling (Hometech) speakers for the center and the back surrounds (they're for the bar and gameroom). I stapled some painters drop cloth on the windows (I'll be drywalling over these later) and temporarily installed some of the rope light. We're going to watch something tonight with the kids. They're all excited. Here are a few pictures I took today.


Berks, Coasters, no way!










Rope light:










Screen shot:










Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Borrowed projector - good choice. Room looks good too. All the different light sources - a lot of atmosphere.


----------



## reaper

Awesome Bud! Looks like fun. Enjoy the projector in there now before the drywall dust starts flying. You won't want your proj anywhere near the room when that starts. Great progress










reap


----------



## coolhand

Those 10% off coupons are a MUST for this hobby. Used MANY myself.


You guys are killing me when I see how much progress you can make over a really short period of time. Its been ages for me and I haven't gotten as far as a week took you. Slow down and help a guy out!


----------



## heartsurgeon

more pics!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *heartsurgeon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> more pics!



Almost took a few more last night. We blew up one of these queen inflatable beds and the kids (daughter, 4 next month and son, 6 in November) hung out on it. They had a great time. We use Netflix and watched The 7th Voyage of Sinbad last night. Its the one from 1958 and the special effects make it pretty humorous. The kids enjoyed it. We'll probably watch something else tonight, I'll have to take some pictures.


My son asked if we could "watch all our movies down here" and then complained about the "wrinkles" in the screen! Pretty funny... we'll get there....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Dave and Reaper, thanks for the encouragement!


Coolhand,


I'm hovering this week, I'll be away on business, but will be back at it next weekend. That gives you a little time to catch up!










I carried down about a third of the drywall yesterday. I figured that would be a good start. Still waiting on the damn lift! I did run some cat5e for my payphone in the gameroom, but that's about it. We did watch a few movies this weekend. It was a good weekend to stay indoors with all the rain from Dennis.....


Bud


----------



## Neuner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Chirpie,
> 
> 
> Yup! Signed a waiver (for the driveway damage) when I bought it. I also wrote on the paperwork, "garage delivery".
> 
> Bud



Just a note for others: I think I posted some time ago that if you get the drywall from a local supplier and not a 'retail' like lowes or HD, not only does the price include delivery, but they will carry it to your basement for only a little extra $. I paid an extra $75 and 2 guys had all 70 sheets in my basement in about an hour. All together it still came out less than if I purchased it at lowes.


Same thing goes for insulation. I had the insulation purchased & installed for the same amount as just the material at the local store.


Your theater is coming along great! Love how you have the bar design, very similar to mine. Your thread is reminding me that I need to update my pics!


----------



## miltimj

Very nice, Bud! I've been looking forward to seeing your thread -- glad I found it. Be careful with how much you have that PJ, seating, and screen down there!










Regarding drywall delivery, maybe I was spoiled when doing construction for a few years, but I thought that it was typical to use the crane/forklift for the drywall. We'd usually have the crane push it right through the 2 & 3 story windows -- maybe that's due to the amount of drywall that was delivered though (an entire apartment); glad it was relatively easy on you. Those drywall/plywood carriers are so much better than by hand -- I prefer using one of those alone to having to do it with bare hands with another person, even.


Keep up the good work!


----------



## chinadog

Neuner and Tim,


Thanks guys! My drywall lift apparently came yesterday (I'm in Poughkeepsie NY until Sat), my wife said the box was pretty damaged. Hopefully the lift was not damaged, I'll find that out saturday afternoon I suppose. The 6.00 hand carrier worked great! I recommend anyone who HAS to carry this stuff to buy one. I'll be bring drywall down in spurts as I need it. I'm trying to keep the area open so I'm not tripping over it or having to move it more than once.


Things should pick up again now that I have the lift. I have a few things to wrap up before I close the walls/ceiling, but I should be able to take care of that this weekend. More pictures to come!


Bud


----------



## brickie

Good job Bud!!I'm sure it's going to be an awesome theater.


brickie


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Brickie!


Well, arrived back to town on Saturday to see the box the lift was delivered in. Ouch!










Thankfully all the parts were there. Saturdays Project was to put it together. Seems to work good, the crank/brake mechanism seems to be a little stiff, but works fine. Here it is put together:










I had to cut the grass in the early afternoon then make a HD run for some 2x4s and furring strips to frame out a little more around the windows. I needed to do this to prep the windows for drywall and trim afterwards. There was a large gap from where the framing was around the window and where the drywall and trim need to be. This took a few hours (should have taken a before picture, but I have a window in the HT room I can take a picture of and edit it later).










Well, now that I got the window framed and the lift together, I had to try it out. Did this wall in about 1.5 hours yesterday. Normally you do the ceilings first, but in my case, I have soffits everywhere, so no need to do the ceilings first.










Thats it for now. I expect it'll take me a month to six weeks to drywall a few sheets here or there. I'll post some pictures as I go.


Bud


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems to work good, the crank/brake mechanism seems to be a little stiff, but works fine.
> 
> Bud



I find that typical of these things. Just pick up some lubricant can spray (not WD40) and spray the crank, line, and bars. A few lifts up and down and you're good to go.


Looks great, keep it up!


----------



## chinadog

Chirpie,


Thanks. Will check out your idea.


Well, put some more time in today. In fact, I used up all the drywall I carried down previously (except for the green board). I guess I'll carry some down tomorrow night in preparation for the weekend. Here's a shot of the bar area I worked on tonight:










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, after lugging 18 or so pieces of drywall down to the basement this morning at 8:00 AM (to avoid the heat), I ran to HD to get some 14/2 wire to run on extra outlet. About 11:30 I started drywalling. Got a decent amount done. My dad stopped by again and helped for about two hours. I think I'll be able to finished up the walls in the gameroom and at the bottom of the stairs tomorrow. I finished up the ceiling in the bathroom and have about 1/2 the walls done in there. I need to get cement board or Hardy stuff for the surround (for tile, not speakers!)for the shower, then I can complete that. I think I fried my transformer on the furnace though. After I put up some board and made a hole to push the thermostat wire through, I think I fried the chip. I'll play around with it tomorrow. I forgot to shut the furnace off before I did it. Oh well. Chirpie, you should feel better. I didn't really get to clean up this time! Here are a few pictures from today:



















I watched The Aviator tonight (the last hour of it). Boy, Howard Hughes is a wacko!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

A couple questions, Bud...


Where are you going to mount the projector? In front of the middle soffit, or in the back?


Are you running conduit in the soffits, or are you going to run strings to pull more cables later, if necessary?


Good job so far!


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Depends on the projector. If I end up going Panny AE700 (leaning this way), then I'll mount in the back in a hushbox. If I end of going with something else, like the IFSP7205 or IFSP5700, I may move it more forward. I still need to make that decision. I hope we're talking about the right soffit though. The pictures in the previous post are the gameroom, not the HT room. Your reference to "middle" throws me off. I'm doing the whole basement at once. The hold up for me is the indecision in the projector. I expect I'll have the walls in the gameroom/bar tomorrow. I'll do the walls in the HT room next (and concession area), then do the ceilings and soffits after that.


I have 2 1/2 conduit installed already. I'm running all the cables outside of the conduit. The conduit its for future cables/expansion only. I figure its better to run what I can now (maybe spend a few extra bucks) and if I need to run something new, I have the room for it. You might not have seen the conduit if you're looking for it in the gameroom.


This is an old diagram, but it serves its purpose. The red arrows are the walls I worked on today and what shows in the pictures in the previous post. The rest of the walls in the gameroom, bar and bottom of the steps should be done tomorrow. I'll run my HDMI and a few speaker wires for the bar as well. Next week, I'll do the walls in the HT room.










Sorry for the confusion. I'll post a closeup tomorrow of the soffit where the projector will be installed.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Ahh, makes much more sense now. I was assuming that was your gaming room. I should've figured you wouldn't have that many windows in the dedicated HT.


As long as we're on the topic of projectors, might I highly recommend the BenQ PE7700 (newer, typically cheaper, and quieter, than the IFSP7205). I absolutely love mine, and as long as you aren't bothered by RBE, 720p DLP is the way to go. Relative to the amount of $$$ you're probably spending with your remodel, the upgrade to that grade of projector is probably worth it. The other factor is whether you're willing to have the projector hanging down a bit, since it's a zero-offset (so the lens is same height as the top of the screen).


I also agree with your plan to run conduit with nothing in it, in addition to the cables you'll need right away. It only makes sense.


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Thanks! I'll take a look.


Here's what I finished today. I was hoping to get farther, but got a late start today. I don't want to bore people with gameroom photos, so I won't post any more until it's near completion. I will post the HT pictures as I start drywalling. The first is the gameroom, the second is the bar area.



















Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

You really coming along. The drywall lift looks fearsome.


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will post the HT pictures as I start drywalling. The first is the gameroom, the second is the bar area.



Where are your priorities, Bud?! 


Another thing I'm curious about... why make a soffit around the header beam in the game room? Is it to run electrical without drilling through the joists? Seems like a bit more work..


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Good observation. Actually, many of the soffits have heating ducts. These pictures don't show them. The other thing I wanted to do was keep things symmetrical. They put in these laminate beams (instead of poles). Some of the duct work runs along these beams. If I were to put in put a soffit on one side to hide the duct, when finished, would give the impression that the beam was off centered. I tried to figure out how to resolve this and the only way to do this was to do the other side of the beam. Also, there are is a waste pipe on one end of the room that had to get covered as well. After creating soffits where required, I ended up with several soffits running in parallel to one another, and a few perpendicular. It just didn't look right to me, so I ended up putting in the extras to make it symmetrical. I was also trying to minimize the size of these things, so I was considering double treying the ceilings or potentially doing a coffered ceiling. Now I'm thinking I'll be running crown everywhere, so that should minimize the "substantial" look and soften it up. The ceiling is 9 feet, the soffits are 91" underneath.


The damn laminate beams are 17". Also, I ended up having to cut 5" off length wise on second pieces of the drywall to get the right height. I had some flexibility in the HT room though and made the soffits just shy of 12 inches so I could put two sheets of drywall up without having to worry about cutting them length wise.


Oh, and having to run wires with a million soffits, sure does help.


EDIT: Tim, as far as priorities are concerned... if I made a decision on the projector, it would definately be the other way around. For those big decisions, I like to let things lie until my impatience takes over. I tried to give things time to make an informed decision, get lucky, or a light bulb goes off, sometimes the technology changes things....like the new Mirage screen (do I want to cover my windows now in the HT room)? Or a rumor... Panasonic AE800? For the most part, I plan, plan, plan, then implement. I'm a certified project manager. On this project, for those things I can't plan, I just put them on the back burner until they come to a boil and deal with it then.







In the meantime, I keep my mind off of it by getting covered in fine, white dust.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You really coming along. The drywall lift looks fearsome.



Dave,


Thanks. Worth every penny!







Looking forward to doing the ceilings now, if thats possible.


Bud


----------



## Atmosfear

Your whole setup looks fantastic! I just read through this entire thread, riveted. (Is that sad??)


I'm coming up fast on starting my HT/Home Office / Bar/ Gym basement. Closed last May on a 1 flr ranch, with a nice, clean, dry concrete basement. Just have to finish some trim work upstairs, replace a couple of outlets and wrap up some miscellaneous stuff, and I can get started.


First I have to shopvac the whole basement. Then I plan on acid-washing the concrete, then sealing it (the basement has never seen water from what I can tell, but I'm not taking any chances). Then laying plastic, then putting in a subfloor of pressure treated 2x4's (laying wide-side down). Then 3/4" plywood on top of that.


At the risk of getting bashed,







my home office will have priority over my HT room. But I'm a computer geek, plus both my fiance and I work a lot on our pc's (I do side work, like websites and pc repair) and we're currently cooped in a tiny spare bedroom upstairs which is just too small).


I'm leaning towards the exact same Panny pj, but I'm probably a bit further away from making the purchase than you are. I was very happy to see the specs you posted a while back on the viewing distance for the AE700, that was extremely helpful (and I realized my screen was going to be 2 feet wider than I was planning, WOOHOO!)


Awesome work, I plan on copying (more or less) your cove with the cable lighting, it looks slick! Let us know how the AE700 (or 800) works out for you if/when you get it!


----------



## chinadog

Atmosfear,


Thanks for the response and welcome to the forum. I understand the home office thing since I work out of the house (both the wife and I). At least on those cold winter nights in NH, you'll be able to have somewhere to escape to. I grew up in CT and I don't miss those winters. Good luck with your theater.


Help yourself to the cove/trey design. I think it'll come out great. Looking forward to the final result myself!


Bud


----------



## Atmosfear

Hope it's not a faux paux to post a link to my own thread, but I finally stopped being lazy and started one w/ a pic of my layout/design, and I'm eager to see what people think (i.e. make sure nobody sees a major design flaw I have to accomodate before I start framing in two weeks)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=562857 


Atmos


----------



## jerrodshook

Well Bud, I'm finally getting around to reading your thread in detail. Looks good so far! It seems like there's quite a few of doing the entire basement thing. I work from home too, but luckliy my office is already done










I like the look of your tray! I wish I had enough height to do it like that. I'll have soffits down the side and I plan on putting in rope lights in the lip that will overhang. How high are your ceilings again?


Also, assuming I can ever get going again on my basement, keep me in mind for that drywall lift. My guess is I'll be needing something in a few months and you might be done with it by then. In fact, why don't we just make it the AVS lift that goes from house to house?


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Thanks. Ceiling in the HT room is nine feet in the center and 8 feet under the soffits. I'll probably go with an eight inch riser, so it'll be more like 7'"4" in that area.


You're the first to inquire about the lift. We can touch base later. I expect in about a month I'll be done with it. I thought about the community lift idea, I think there several people that would want it at the same time. As long as I recoup some money for it, I'm cool with that though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the latest. Ran two HDMI cables and SVGA cables, one of each to the projector, the other to the bar (plasma/LCD expansion later) back to the equipment closet. I also ran an IR expansion wire to the projector area, in case I need it as well. The only wires left is a pair of speaker wires to the bar area and another pair for the shakers (I have one pair already, figured I'd add one more just in case, will do that today. THAT'S IT, no more wires! The SVGA tcables were another "just in case" and were reasonable, so what the heck. The next step is to connect the Buffalo IR receiver in the bar area and connect everything in the equipment closet to make sure it works. Should be done this week. Here are my plans for IR.











I plan on connecting my step lights in the HT room for the riser and drywall the HT walls this weekend. I drywalled the ceiling at the bottom of the basement stairs and a few of the walls outside the HT room as well. I'll finish that up shortly and puts me back on schedule.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll finish that up shortly and puts me back on schedule.



Great plans. I have a general question for you... You mentioned "back on schedule", and I'm curious how detailed your schedule is, (or in your terms, "project plan"







)... Something tells me you have an MS Project file named, "Basement Remodel.mpp" on your computer...


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Ha. Actually, I have thought through it. I've started a high level plan, but decided against it for two reasons, primarily time and money. If I had calculated out a firm budget and timeframe, I would have definitely. Since I don't have these constraints (at least time, money is a factor obviously, but I adjust that as it makes sense), I'm sort of open ended.


I do have milestones in my head that I'm targeting and working towards, but if something comes up financially or requires my attention (wife's birthday and daughters birthday coming up, for example) or I need to figure something out technically, I just adjust according. I did however, plan and work through my dependencies (plumbing rough-in for the bathroom and bar, getting my father-in-law here to help with the electrical), so I could keep moving forward. I always have the next two or three tasks in my head I need to do next.


I have thought about going back and working a MSP plan after the fact to log all the planning steps, dependencies, predecessors, successors tasks, milestones, etc for a future theater if I ever decided to move and redo this endeavor or if someone wanted a skeleton plan to work from. I may, however, be busy watching movies. and sitting at the bar







. But I'll think atbout it at least!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Makes sense -- I did that basically with my house remodel, since we ended up ripping up the downstairs bathroom, and the entire upstairs floor (except bathroom), then swapping, etc.. (For me, a dependency was to always have a bathroom; somehow my wife wasn't willing to negotiate on that one...heh)


Instead of doing an MSP plan after the fact, you could do it as you go, so it's completely accurate, and helps you lay out your thoughts for the next few tasks, and you don't forget that one idea you had about why you needed to do one thing first... (because it's a comment in the plan, etc...) Just a thought -- you're making me itch for an unfinished basement again...


----------



## Atmosfear

My God, I thought I was a geek! J/k!


Tim, my basement is unfinished, I'll fly you out here and put you up for a few weeks if you want!










I barely have any time to work on this, much less get that crazy w/ planning. I do take advantage of every spare minute (such as lunch breaks at work) to layout what planning I do have. And whenever I'm having a hard time falling asleep, I just starting milling through what needs to be done and/or how I could do X in my basement, and I'm usually out within minutes.


----------



## miltimj

Ah come on, you take lunch breaks? You have plenty of time!










I'm saving myself for when that time comes, because I'm sure I'll reach burnout at some point in the project.


----------



## Atmosfear

Hehe, yeah, they let me eat here occasionally.


Hey, I've been searching google (HD's site didn't turn anything up) for a steel i-beam supplier. Yahoo yellowpages didn't get me far either. Where would you go to look? Is there a thread on that somewhere on AVS already? (probably is, I just haven't looked very deep yet).


----------



## miltimj

You have to go to a steel supplier near you.. google for that. None of the main home improvement stores will have anything like that. I don't know if there's a thread for it.. (but speaking of that, we should un-hijack Bud's thread...







)


----------



## Atmosfear

You're right Tim, sorry Bud!


Couple questions Bud, in your equipment room, are you relying solely on a fan to keep things cool?


Also, do you know for a fact that the Panasonic AE700 will require a hushbox, or is it just a precaution?


----------



## chinadog

Atmosfear,


On the AE700 noise, probably not, more for aesthetics and a clean look. I'm sure others can chime in here. The fan in the equip closet is the main source to remove heat, but I don't plan on putting a glass door on the front, plenty of ventilation through rack panel vents and a louvered door. The fan is pretty quiet, I won't need to really seal it up to contain noise. I need to re-read this document (from post 11), thanks for the reminder:

Middle Atlantic thermal management info 


Also, if a do a hush box, I have 4" duct with a in-line fan already run to pull heat from it.


And I take the geek remark as a compliment.







Believe me, there are worse names I've been called.


Tim,


Yes, I should do document everything now as I go. I am with at least the pictures (not posting all I took).


Bud


----------



## Frank11613

Chinadog


----------



## Frank11613

Chinadog Great stuff, it has help me alot. Where did you get the introduction Blazing Ridge Cinema at, I would like to buy one.


Keep up the good stuff, it is very helpful for us new guys trying to piece together a home theater.

Thanks Frank


----------



## miltimj

Frank, this is the thread regarding Bud's "Blazing Ridge Cinema" introduction screen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=538807 


Reaper's the man...


----------



## chinadog

Frank,


Thanks, I plan to keep the ball rolling. On the introduction, what Tim said. Its a very detailed and long thread. Reaper did a great job with that one!


Bud


----------



## Frank11613

Chinadog I see yellow and white electric wiring, what size are they. Where did you get your blazing ridge introduction from. Very nice job on everything. I am just having a new house built. Am looking forward to all I have to do. I will do it all myself.

Frank


----------



## chinadog

Frank, check Tim's response for the introduction. It was done by Reaper here on AVS. Here is the thread he started on the subject:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=538807 


You'll have to read through the first page or two to understand what he requires to do the intro slide and animation. Warning. Its a very long thread.....


The yellow wire is 12/2 and the white wire is 14/2. Don't go based on what you see here in my pictures, it really depends on the circuit you're installing, the breaker, the load, the number of outlets and cans, etc. If you're not up on these things, consult an electrician. My father-in-law knows this stuff. I know my limitations. I'm good for running wire (based on what he tells me), drilling holes for wire and an occasional few outlets/switches here and there. I personally don't like to mess with it and if he wasn't my father-in-law and a good guy, I would have paid to have it done. No question.


And good luck with the new house. Exciting times!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I ran the wiring for my step lights for the riser and carried down all the remaining drywall. Today I started drywalling the HT room. Here's as far as we got (my Dad was here a couple of hours). I have about 8 pieces of drywall left, so looks like I'll be ordering another 30 panels to finish up the ceilings and finish off the HT room and concession area.


A little worn out today, but managed some pictures after a hot shower.


Back wall:










Side wall:










Front wall:










Outside theater room:


















Bud


----------



## miltimj

Awesome... maybe I missed it, but what are you planning on doing with the windows? Also, where will the rope lighting go in the cove ceiling? It seems that the angled plywood ends right where the studs are above it (maybe there's an inch or so of space there? ...I'm referencing a pic on the first page of this thread)


I like a lot of the ideas you're using, and will probably plagiarize some of them (ie bookmark this thread)...


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Thanks, its coming along...


I'm planning on drywalling over the windows. Thats the plan at least for now. I'll Cut a piece of drywall for the window and paint it black. Attach the drywall piece to a piece of 2x4 sideways (gives me the right depth) and attach the 2x4 to the framing in the window with the black side of the drywall out. That'll cover it, then I drywall over the whole thing.


The rope light will go in the back in the farthest part of the cove. Because of the height of the cove and the depth of the cove, it won't be seen. There is just enough room (1/2 inch height) at the top of the cover where the drywall or 1/2 plywood (see comment below) will cover it and meet the from of the cove. The bottom of the cove is 1 & 1/2 inches, just enough room for one layer of drywall and 1 inch thick linacoustic. I'll also drywall the from of the cover (angled part). The whole thing will be coverer with GOM. I'm thinking 1/2 ply to have a surface to staple the GOM to on top of the cove. I'll try and draw up a picture with the actual layout and dimensions.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Interesting (on both accounts)... Are you going to GOM the walls? If so, have you considered a separate removable insert for covering the windows, and covering over it with GOM? Then if you (or future owners) ever want the windows back, you/they only need to remove the GOM and pull out the inserts... Just a thought.


The rope lights and cove are difficult to picture... I suppose that's why a picture is worth a thousand words... I'll just wait patiently for that stage of the project to be more clear.


----------



## chinadog

Yes to GOM and yes to the insert (or plug as I like to call it). I was just discussing that with my Dad yesterday. One reason that wall isn't done yet. The windows are pretty large (I don't have measurements off the top of my head), but probably doable with some sort covering. I was thinking of using rigid foam board with some support in the middle and a foam around the perimeter that has some flex to it to hold it in place. I can cover the whole thing with GOM.


Maybe I'll draw something up today on that subject as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are two MS Paint drawings I did this AM. This will give you a better idea of what I'm doing with the cove trey and rope lights.


The first drawing is a little chaotic, but hopefully its legible enough to get the point across. Basically, I extended my soffit with some framing and capped it off with a piece of 3/4 inch plywood (6.5 inches wide). Since I plan on using GOM on the walls and under the soffit, I'll drywall over the plywood, that'll give me a nice surface to pull the GOM over without worrying about snagging it on the rough plywood surface.


I'll leave 1.5 inches underneath for drywall and linacoustic and that will make it even with the bottom of the plywood for a level surface. Also, I left 1/2 inch above the soffit for plywood (or 1/2 furring strips) and drywall. The reason for ply on the top is just an area to staple the GOM to. You could use plywood all the way across the top of the soffit, but drywall is easier to work with.


The rope light will sit up against the back of the soffit. because of the width of the top of the cove and the height of the ceiling, (bottom of soffit is eight feet), the rope light won't be seen. I'll verify this as I get closer. Worst case is I could add a trim piece around the top of the soffit towards the back to make a tray to put the rope light in.



















Bud


----------



## reaper

Dang brotha... you are cooking on this project. Look at you go. you know, if you finish before me, I am never talking to you again, Bud! Hahaha! I'll be interested to hear your experience with sanding the drywall mud. What a mess. You drawings look very cool. Can't wait to see that lighting in place.


What's the distance from the rope lighting to the edge of the soffit? Do you think it will be very evident from that distance? It seems kind of far if the scale is correct. I thought people put rope lighting close to a visible vertical section of the wall whereas yours will be inset quite a bit. It will likely produce a soft glow.


Did you post images of your GOM? Maybe I need to look back some. I don't remember it.


reaper


----------



## chinadog

Reaper,


Yeah, its coming along, nicely, but it'll slow up again I'm sure when it comes to spending the cash for the equipment. Decisions, decisions. I miss Visio, but Paint does the job in a pinch.










I'm going to price out the mud. I've done it and I probably will do it, but going to get some quotes. I don't mind the mud,. its the dust. I've managed to keep the butt joints to a minimum and plan on crown everywhere, so we'll see how much the mud will cost me. If they don't have the dustless sanders, I'll probably do it myself and rent one. I already have stilts from the last basement drywall job and that'll help big time.


I have not posted pictures of GOM. Still working on my color scheme. I just ordered some samples from Guilford, so waiting on those.


The drawing is not to scale. I think it'll work our fine though based on the testing I've done. If you look at the pictures I've posted of the soffit with the lights on you can see only one small section and thats because I just laid it up there. It still has the "bends" from the roll (bought 150 feet) and is not pushed back in the corner really. Also, that picture was taken from eye level (obviously) and I'm 6'4", so there are not many people that will see it any higher! I also used the frosted white light versus the clear to give it a softer look.


Congrats on your completion. Looks great.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Well, it's not complete yet... but construction is. Just need some carpet and finishing touches here and there. Then I hang the screen and posters and toss the chairs in. Thanks for the congrats though. The pictures to be posted over the next 2 weeks or so should be fun.


I found your images of the soffit trial. Looks awesome! Sorry I missed those before.


reaper


----------



## Frank11613

Bud

Thanks for the info. and good luck on your HT. I'll probably be back when I get started on my HT. Great thread and informative.

Frank


----------



## beatboy77

It's looking really good Bud!!


~Josh


----------



## chinadog

Josh, thanks.


I think I'll run to Home Depot and order more drywall tomorrow or Friday. I also need to fix my 24 VAC transformer on my furnance and wire my IR stuff still. Next week I plan on take a few days off, that'll give me some piece and quiet to work downstairs. I should have finished the ceilings (at least in the bar and gameroom) by then. Hoping to do the ceilings with the 6 sheets I have left in the concession area.


Still need to get some quotes on mud. I may be breaking out the stilts (to mud the ceilings) before the end of the month! Stay tuned.


Bud


(damn, this was my 500th post already)


----------



## beatboy77

And this was my 100th!! What type of insulation are you using Bud?


~Josh


----------



## chinadog

I used Owens Corning R19 in the ceiling and also the walls that share the gameroom since it was 2x6 construction. I'm only doing one layer of 1/2 drywall, but plan on caulking the outlets and seams. I'll use linacoustic/batting and GOM to cover. I'm not too concerned about sound leakage, considering the HT room is below my home office in the basement.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just returned from "Big Orange", 30 sheets of drywall arriving tomorrow. That should pretty much cover everything I need to do, any extra (doubt it) I'll hang in my workshop.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Have you been using those drywall carriers for hauling that stuff to the basement? They work pretty slick, and are pretty cheap too.


----------



## johnson_sb

Hey Bud,


How much are they getting you for on each of those deliveries? I'm thinking it was $55-$60 at my local HD the last time I asked.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Call me lazy. Thats about right. I don't have the receipt in front of me. I could have loaded it in the suburban (made maybe two trips), but I'm going to have to carry it down to the basement anyway, so I figured I'd save my back and knees (especially my knees), some.


Tim,


Yes, those puppies are WONDERFUL. Best 6 bucks I've ever spent.


Bud


EDIT: Steve, checked the receipt. 59.00. So if you average it out over thirty sheets, it cost me an extra 2.00 per sheet for a total $9.53 per sheet. Original price was 7.53 per sheet. The stuff has gone up like 2.50 a sheet in the last 6 months.


----------



## MaximAvs

WOW! Everything is looking fantabulous Bud!! I got one of those dustless sanders when I did my theater (picked it up from Lowes). It's a little on the tough side (the shop vac has so much power it wants to suck the sander to the wall making it hard to swipe back and forth) but the dust was minimal, only a little at the bottom of walls. I sanded the whole basement and 'MaximAvwife' said she didn't notice any drywall dust coming into the house.


Keep the pics coming! It's like reliving the contruction process all over again!


----------



## chinadog

Maxim,


Thanks! I bought one of those things from HD last time I finished the basement. I found it tough to use for the reason you mentioned, it wants to stick to the wall. Maybe I was doing it wrong. I think the last time I try to make everything perfect and sanded between coats and that generated a lot of extra dust. I'm hoping to get away with sanding the final coat and maybe renting a drywall sander from a local rental store. Need to start looking around.


Bud


----------



## maximavwife

As MaximAvs is in charge of the dusting chores (and he does look so very cute...I mean masculine...with a feather duster in hand) you can believe it when he says the dust was minimal with the dustless sander.


Kath

Proud wife Of MaximAvs


----------



## MaximAvs

OMG!!! She found me!!


----------



## miltimj

Classic... I guess there's no more talk of WAF around here...


----------



## maximavwife

Like you are so hard to find dear...you are either in the HT, the Boom Boom Room or here.


Kath

Proud wife of MaximAvs


----------



## chinadog

Reaper,


You now need to create a new intro slide for the Maxims... Welcome to the Boom Boom Theater!


Bud


----------



## maximavwife

FYI: WAF is very high in regards to what MaximAvs has done w/ the HT and the Lounge. No complaints from this wife.


Kath

Proud wife of MaximAvs


----------



## MaximAvs

I don't know if you knew, but at HD you can get clear channel for the rope light to snap into to keep it nice and straight in the soffet. It has double sided tape to attach it, or you can screw it down. Works pretty slick! You can find it back in the lighting area by the rope light.


-Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Will take a gander. With the roll I bought, came some clips. I wasn't sure if I was going to use them or not, that sounds like a good alternative though once I get that cove completed. Thanks for the tip!


Bud


----------



## BFauska

Bud,


DO NOT USE THE CLIPS.


I did a project 2 years ago using the clips that came with some rope light and within about 1.5 years the clips had nearly all broken. I think like 16 out of 18 had broken... in a location with no physical contact, and only about 15 hours a week usage of the lights.


1 year ago I did a project with the channel and it is still holding as tight as it did the first day and these lights have been on almost 24/7 and the location is exposed to physical contact by people.


Lucky for me the clips that I need to replace are on the underside of a desk and not in a little alcove 8 feet of the ground. It would also be a pain to fasten all those little clips to the soffit, lots of little screws or nails. The channel also holds the ropelight straight as an arrow, which I know isn't as important because it is well hidden in your soffit but I'm sure it still matters to you a little. I would want my hidden rope light to be as straight as possible. It's kind of like not wanting our PQ to have any flaws, even the ones that nobody NORMAL would notice. The channel is very affordable and definately worth it.


Keep up the good work, the place is looking great.


Later,

Brian


----------



## chinadog

Brian,


I was trying to figure out how to get the "bends" out of the light. I thought that with enough usage over time, it might have straightened out some. I'd like it as straight as possible, since with any slight bends it'll have some impact on where it will project light from the trey. Between yours and Maxim's comments, I'm definately going to use the track now. Thanks for the info!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, good news is I didn't fry my transformer (reference to post #61) like I thought on the furnance. I found a 3A fuse on the circuit board that blew. I took a quick trip to Autozone for a 40 cent fuse and its working perfectly now. That saved me a service call and a few bucks! Took me a little while to figure out. Anyway, still waiting on Big Orange to deliver the drywall.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Good news on the furnace!! You don't need any extra distractions while working on the theater!


----------



## chinadog

Drywall has arrived. Sorry to disappoint Chirpie, they put it in the garage again. I tried to talk them out of it, but they insisted!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

In that order....


The good news is that I got a lot of drywall done this weekend, including finishing the concession area and the interior of the equipment closet. I even started the ceilings in the game room.










The bad news is my hard drive on my laptop crashed and burned. It was making some serious noises yesterday and will not boot.







The good news is that I did have recent backups of all my data.










Good news. I've been wanting a new laptop for a while, so I bought a new one.







I also ordered a replacement hard drive for the old machine and will have to rebuilt that puppy.










Bad news, I didn't really want to spent the money on PC crap and it'll put me a little behind buying HT equipment unfortunately!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

*NOTE: Fotki is having some issues and sometimes pictures don't show up. It's usually temporary, but VERY annoying.*


Here are some pictures of the concession area and equipment closet. Its basically done, except for the outer wall of the closet. I left this off to be able to get to the wiring. I'm leaning towards adding an inline fan to the duct that vents from the bathroom fan. It blows pretty hard just from the fan in the closet, but figured it wouldn't hurt. I can tie it into the thermostat so both fans would turn on simultaneously. Even though I've finished the ceiling that the room, I can still get a wire through the ceiling from the storage room in the back, the ceiling is unfinished still and that where I ran many wires anyway.


From the HT room, here is the left side of the concession area. I plan on putting lower cabinets in this area and would house a microwave, maybe a popcorn machine and maybe a minifridge. I don't think I need the upper cabinets, so maybe some movie posters on the upper wall. Notice the outlets are at the normal kitchen height.










Here is the right side of the concession area, which includes the equipment closet/rack and an area past the rack that will eventually end up with shelving for DVD storage. You can see the wire bundles in the closet from here. The closet will have a door, probably louvered.










This is a shot at the opening for the Middle Atlantic Slim 5-43 rack for the equipment closet. I used two pieces of 2x6s on the left and right sides of the opening and painted them black to give them a finished look when the rack is installed, If I just framed it out, the drywall would have butted up against the side of the rack. I offset the 2x6s half an inch (forward) so the drywall is completely hidden. I'll trim the rack later and paint it black once the rack is permanently installed.










Here's a closer shot looking in through the opening towards the ceiling. I have extra wiring in here for speakers in the game room/bar and a bunch of video cables for that eventual plasma/LCD in the bar as well. I tried to keep them separated by area.










Here's a shot with the rack in temporarily.










Shot of the back of the rack towards the ceiling. The wires come in perfectly at the back of the rack. I picked up some cable/wire management accessories from Middle Atlantic and Gruber, which will work out great for organizing he cables.










Here is the shot of the outer wall of the closet, left off the drywall until I complete the last of the wiring.










Bud


----------



## Maggie Guy

Nice work! Getting me motivated to start my own project!


----------



## miltimj

Do you have access to the back of the rack? Or the ability to put in an access panel in the back? Will the rack pullout? I'm just curious how you're going to handle wiring post-completion.


Edit: The first pictures didn't show up, but now I see that you have a door for access to the rack... (although you might get too much equipment and need to use the door for another rack...







)


Nice job...


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


I got annoyed and sent Fotki a note, glad all the pictures finally came up. It looks like they're upgrading their servers. I somehow doubt I'll be be needing another rack for a while. Lets hope not!


Maggie Guy,


Thanks, could use some more motivation myself!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Played around with the Buffalo IR system tonight. I connected two of the three IR receivers, one in the soffit (pictures in post 44 , layout of IR system in post 75 ). To test, I installed two ceiling speakers in the game room and connected them to an old Kenwood receiver and CD player that I planned on using for music in the bar and gameroom. I then wired up connected the IR components. I was able to get the CD player to work fine, even from the bar. The Kenwood receiver would not work, but I suspect either there is a frequency incompatibly issue (apparently a few brands and models use higher frequencies). I connected another receiver I had, but it does not have a remote, so I need to setup a universal remote and play with it some more tomorrow. I was happy the CD player worked, the IR receiver in the bar is about 50 feet away, connected with CAT5. I need to close the walls up in the bathroom and the receiver is in the wall that is shared by the bar and bathroom (maybe I'll put a urinal in the bar ...). Now I'll have to tear out the wall if the receiver needs to replaced.. but thats ok, I'm getting good at drywall.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Looking good...... I like it a looooot.


----------



## chinadog

Well, I took today off and will be taking tomorrow off as well to work in the basement. Half of the ceiling is now done in the game room as well as a few soffits. Plan on finishing up the ceilings in the game room tomorrow. Saturday I'll do the ceiling and last wall in the HT room. Sunday I have a buddy coming over to help clear out my storage room (move it all into the HT room so I can do the ceilings in there. The walls have been done since last winter. I will however, need about another 20 sheets of drywall (I've hung about 85 so far) I expect I'll go through the last ordered of 30 tomorrow. I'll probably pick up 10 on Saturday morning and another 10 on Sunday morning.


Oh and BTW, I'm in the middle of restoring my hard drive on my laptop and I decided NOT to pull the trigger on the other new laptop. I called them back that same day and canceled my order. I'd rather put those funds towards something a little more fun....


I'll post pictures on Saturday.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

That's right, keep your priorities straight, Bud...










I'm amazed at your willingness to throw up that much drywall, BTW. I'm quite a DIY-obsessed guy, but I'd probably hire out the pain involved with that much drywall...


----------



## chinadog

Without the lift, I'd be SOL and there is no way I could do it. Also, it's going to save me 2500.00+, which is incentive enough for me. That's a projector right there! I like the challenge. Keeps me determined and motivated. Did I mention it's going to save me like 2500.00?


Bud


----------



## heartsurgeon

looks better and better..we want more pictures!!


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Without the lift, I'd be SOL and there is no way I could do it. Also, it's going to save me 2500.00+, which is incentive enough for me. That's a projector right there! I like the challenge. Keeps me determined and motivation. Did I mention it's going to save me like 2500.00?
> 
> 
> Bud




LOL. 'keeps me determined', 'I like the challenge'. Delusional I tell you! ^_^


But the money savings, that's the piece of cheeze at the end of the maze. I'm not sure why but my second layer of drywall is so demoralizing for me. My brain keeps telling me, "Dude, we already did this! And now we've got this sticky green crap going inbetween!? What's wrong with you?!"


Wait, was that my brain or my wife?


----------



## jerrodshook

Man Bud you are making great progress on your basement!!! I'm just getting over poison ivy and a bad case of the hives so I haven't been able to do much lately. What fun that's been for the past 4 weeks!


Have you listed anywhere in your thread about what cables you're running, quantity, where they're going to/from, etc....??? I don't recall seeing anything.


Just curious because I'm trying to think of all the cables I need, but I know I'll forget something.


----------



## chinadog

heartsurgeon,


Thanks. I've got your pictures... right here.. Give me a another day or so, you'll get your pictures.










Chirps,


I hear you. Delusional is my middle name. My neighbors just shake their heads when the see me (or another delivery of drywall). Did I mention, I expect to save 2500 bucks? Gotta keep pushing otherwise the light at the end of the tunnel starts to dim. Double drywall? Does that mean I need to buy another 110 sheets or drywall? Ahhhh! Could have been your brain, your wife, your kids, siblings, parents, postal person, priest or rabbi, congressman or congresswoman, boss, mistress, neighbor, dog OR someone here on AVS! Doesn't matter. Press on.


Jerrod,


Poison Ivy? Hives? Sounds like you met someone else on another flight. You need to practice safe flying.







I don't think I posted cables here. I did start another thread a while back about what I was planning and got some feedback. Here was my initial thread on the subject:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=525863 


I've used a variety of vendors online for cables and wire. The only wire I bought locally (from HD), I returned. I bought a ton of Carol 12 gauge speaker wire though partsexpress.com. I've also picked up R59 from them as well. I picked up RG6 (all copper) through a different vendor, can't remember the name, but could look it up if you need it. Component, SVGA and HDMI I bought through pccables.com. Monoprice.com also has some decent cable prices, but have not used them. I also bought CAT6 and CAT5E. If you need anything or have any questions, let me know.


Time to get some sleep, got lots of work to do tomorrow!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's right, keep your priorities straight, Bud...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm amazed at your willingness to throw up that much drywall, BTW. I'm quite a DIY-obsessed guy, but I'd probably hire out the pain involved with that much drywall...



Tim, Forgot to mention and point out in my other post, not only did I hang it, but I CARRIED every damn sheet down to the basement myself!!!! I should have muscles like Chirpie by now. I've SO happy I spent 6 bucks on those panel carriers! Takes me 10 minutes to carry 10 sheets from the garage to the basement.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Yep, that's a chore... especially going down stairs... ugh.


Oh, and for $2500, I'd do it myself too, now that you put a price on it..


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


No stairs, thankfully! I bring it around the back through these doors....











Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

You're gonna have forearms of Popeye after running that many sheets of drywall into the house.










You may have mentioned it, but what is the size of your rooms?! I just got thinking after you said that you were fininshing the ceiling in your storage area, that maybe I should do that. My theater and lounge take up 2/3 of the basement, and the other 1/3 is storage and mechanical. I left the storage area unfinished and hung a curtain between the finished and unfinshed area. Maybe if I finish that area and put in a door, it might help to really complete the whole basement. The house had plumbing already in place for a bathroom in the basement, which I want to do... but once the projector was mounted, I haven't done any more construction down there. Let that be a warning to ya!


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


I may have Popeye arms, but my knees are killing me!!!


The game room and bar area are like 17x33. There is some additional square footage (like 12x8) in addition to the bar, it would be the area under the breakfast area. The HT room is 13x 19. The concession area (without the equipment closet) was 8x10. The storage room off the concession area is like 12.5x12.5. I have a workshop that's like 11x17 and a small mechanical room thats like 9x17. I also have a small area between the bathroom,HT room and game room. I'm not really sure what the total livable space is in the basement. The house upstairs is like 4100. So I'm guess that the livable space is around 1400-1600 in the basement. Too tired and lazy to calculate it!


The storage room has electric and cans, I just never got the ceiling done. If we didn't have so much crap (er, if my wife didn't have so much crap), that room could have been a nice workout room or home office when done. Finishing it will give it a nice look.


I'll post pictures tomorrow night. I'm damn tired. No plans for the projector yet, need to save some cash... but I hear ya.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Another productive, yet tiring day. Went to Home Depot this morning and picked up another 16 sheets of drywall and started mid morning. I didn't get quite as far as I had hoped. My dad and I spent about 5-6 hours working though. I have a friend coming tomorrow morning to help out. Here are a few teaser photos, more tomorrow.


Here's the bar area:










Shot of the gameroom:










Put in some in-ceiling speakers in the bar and on the far side of the gameroom. I've got them hooked up to the receiver/cd player in the rack. They sound pretty good, they're Hometech HT603Rs. I think Speakercraft makes Hometech. I bought these on ebay for a steal. Controlled by the IR receiver in the bar area. Can you spot it in the picture of the bar?


















From the opposite corner in the gameroom looking at the bar:










First sheet on the HT room ceiling. Needed to pull down the plywood on the cove and take down the rope light to get in the corners. This gives you a good shot of the framing for the plywood as well.


















Thats it for now.


Bud


----------



## beatboy77

Bud,


It is looking Great!!!! By the way, I believe HomeTech speakers are actually made by Sonance.


~Josh


----------



## chinadog

I stand corrected, that's right. Long day...


Bud


----------



## Mark P

You are kicking some serious tail! Very impressive. I always like the progress pics as much or more than te finish pics


I am letting a good friend of mine do my sheetrock since hes a pro and I hate it with a passion ( the sanding phase the most, uhhggg) I about fell over when he said it would take him 3 days and cost me $2,000 Labor & Materials finished.


I said "when can you start?"


He said 10 days and I said see ya then.


----------



## spin03

need to post to get to 5 posts so i can post urls.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spin03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> need to post to get to 5 posts so i can post urls.



Thanks for that insightful post. I noticed you did this in some other threads as well. For future reference, there is a "Post Test Area" thread you can use so you don't have to post garbage.


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Sounds like a good deal. How much square footage are you talking about?


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Watching you go simueltaneously gets me to think " how hard can it be" and "definitely want to hire that out".


Impressive nonetheless.


----------



## Mark P

Bud,

I think its around 1000 sq ft and a couple patches.

Its not the sq. ft as much as the details of the ceiling as in 40 can lights and a recessed 6' wide circle for a chandelier, and an equiptment room with so many outlets, lights, exhaust fans and airconditioners that he will chow through several roto-zip blades I am sure


----------



## jerrodshook

Still looking nice Bud! I had my neighbor over this evening while I was doing some wiring. He's going to start finishing his basement in a few months, and wants to help me so he can learn. SWEEEEET! I told him things are OK righ tnow, but I'll definitely need help when it's drywall time.


One thing I plan on doing as much as possible is to use "things" to cover the drywall seams. That way, I don't have to worry about the finished look. For instance, the theater will be covered with GOM all around. In my gameroom/kitchen area, I'm going to coffer the entire ceiling (where the seams are). For the walls in this area, I'm going to put bead board over the drywall on the bottom, and then use stained 1x6's to cover the vertical seams.


It's going to cost me extra in wood and all, but a lot labor on my part, on $$$ out of my wallet to pay someone.


BTW, it sounds like your basement is freakin huge!


----------



## chinadog

Spent a few hours today wrapping up the ceiling in the HT room and the one outstanding wall with the windows. I framed out around the two windows in that room in preparation for drywall in the AM and my friend John spent about 6 hors or so here helping me drywall. He and I framed out his basement, did the drywall and trim and I painted his prime coat, so he owed me. I plan installing drywall over the windows as well, but wanted to be able to pull it off easily if I ever had to. I have some ideas on how to do this and will post pictures as I move forward with my plans.


Here's the HT wall with the windows. Notice the black area on the wall. I had to cutout a small section where the gas pipe comes into the house. The pipe extends out past the end of the framing about half an inch on the bottom. If I drywalled over it, I'd have a nice bulge. I already taped (fiberglass mesh tape) and mudded it.










Here's a shot of the ceiling now. I think I'll leave off the cove plywood until I get the ceiling taped and mudded. It'll' be easier that way. I don't plan on doing the underneath of the soffit until I get my stage and proscenium designed so I can figure out the three 4" cans in front and make a decision on a projector.










I also went around and mudded all the screw holes in the gameroom, bar, bottom of the stairs and concession area. I had an hour burst of energy after watching Ty on _Extreme Home Makeover._ I guess I'm working on the Extreme Basement Makeover....


Going to be very busy with work this week, not sure if I'll have the opportunity to do any basement work this week.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watching you go simueltaneously gets me to think " how hard can it be" and "definitely want to hire that out".
> 
> 
> Impressive nonetheless.



Thanks. I little sweat and knowledge goes a long way. Having the right tools is half the battle. Its not rocket science, thats for sure. Just know your limitations. I weight the purchase of the tools into the cost savings factor of what I want done. I also include a pain in the ass factor as well. And as my father-in-law says, once you've got the tools for the job, you've go them for next time....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I think its around 1000 sq ft and a couple patches.
> 
> Its not the sq. ft as much as the details of the ceiling as in 40 can lights and a recessed 6' wide circle for a chandelier, and an equiptment room with so many outlets, lights, exhaust fans and airconditioners that he will chow through several roto-zip blades I am sure



Mark,


Yes, the more stuff you need to cut out, the longer it takes. I made two mistakes marking boards from the wrong end for cans and when I go to put the board up, the hole is on the wrong side. Aggravating, for sure. I have 32 cans, pendants for the bar, a few chandelier type lights, a ceiling fan and who know how any outlets.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still looking nice Bud! I had my neighbor over this evening while I was doing some wiring. He's going to start finishing his basement in a few months, and wants to help me so he can learn. SWEEEEET! I told him things are OK righ tnow, but I'll definitely need help when it's drywall time.
> 
> 
> One thing I plan on doing as much as possible is to use "things" to cover the drywall seams. That way, I don't have to worry about the finished look. For instance, the theater will be covered with GOM all around. In my gameroom/kitchen area, I'm going to coffer the entire ceiling (where the seams are). For the walls in this area, I'm going to put bead board over the drywall on the bottom, and then use stained 1x6's to cover the vertical seams.
> 
> 
> It's going to cost me extra in wood and all, but a lot labor on my part, on $$$ out of my wallet to pay someone.
> 
> 
> BTW, it sounds like your basement is freakin huge!



Jerrod,


Having a helping hand is nice. My father doesn't do too much physical stuff, but he hands me stuff when I'm on the ladder, double checks measurements, runs down tools, etc. Every little bit helps.


I plan on taping the seams, but wasn't going to do the screws initially. I will do all the walls in GOM and they'll be covered, but it doesn't take long at all to mud screws, so I'll probably do them as well. I thought about beadboard in the gameroom, but then decided not to.


I guess its large. Bigger than our old house at least. Looking forward to completing it so I can use it!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Diary of a madman



You must be an Ozzy fan.....



> Quote:
> Looking forward to completing it so I can use it!



Amen!


----------



## TheFerret

Hey Bud, it is true how nice it is to have a helping hand. Even if they just stand there and drive you like a drilling instructor the motivational factor alone is desired.


----------



## suffolk112000

Looking good.

I realy like the bar area.


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Thanks. I worked with someone at Home Depot to design it. Free service. I gave them my requirements and measurements and they ran with it. I then made a few modifications later. I had to get that done in order to get the dimensions for the half wall so I could build it. Once that was done, I had the plumber put in the copper and drain for the bar sink (can't see it in these pictures though). I have a few more tweaks to discuss with them when I'm ready to actually order the cabinets, but that probably won't be until the spring.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

Spring!! Will your theater be done before then?


Craig


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suffolk112000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Spring!! Will your theater be done before then?
> 
> 
> Craig



Probably by the end of the year for the HT room, spring for the rest of the basement. My son starts up baseball in about two weeks and that'll chew up some spare time. Still have the bathroom drywall and fixtures, tile work, cabinets, flooring, trim, doors, Linacoustic and GOM, paint, equipment. I expect to have the HT room done before year end (except for maybe seats, who knows). Cash flow is king!


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Cash flow is king!
> 
> 
> Bud



Sound like the quote of the day to me.
























Craig


----------



## chinadog

I thought I'd move this here instead of Jerrod's thread, particularly about the Ascend speakers I'll be going with. What I posted orginally over there:


I'm going with the Ascend 340s in the front. I haven't bought them yet. Because my side surrounds are in a weird location (above the door) and the fact that I didn't want columns, I'm putting in in-ceilings for the side surrounds. I just decided to match the rear surrounds as well, instead of going with in-walls or on-walls. I did a little investigation (including talking to Ascend) and Ascend recommends the S622TRs to match the Ascends. I ordered two pair last week from two different companies and one arrived today. They'll fit perfectly where I need them in the side soffit. Also, the in-ceilings that I put in the bar/gameroom are Hometech, which apparently are also made by Sonance. Anyway, they're pretty reasonable for surrounds. I plan on getting the Ascends in the not so distant future, when I have the cash. In the meantime I'll start building my proscenium and stage using the Ascend dimensions published in mind and adding some for flexibility or change of mind later.


Here's the Sonance site 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I had posted in the Audio Theory, Speaker Setup forum recently about placement of my surrounds given my room layout and got some good info regarding my situation. I had also contacted Ascend (as mentioned) and they recommended going with two pairs of the S622TRs instead of in-ceilings for the sides and in-walls for the rears. Sanjay in the other forum suggested the same. It makes sense to me, keeping them at the same height. That's one less thing I need to worry about. Sanjay referenced the 7.1 Dolby setup and placement of the rears based on the sweet spot. Apparently a 60 degree angle to the rear speakers is optimal according to the Dolby ProLogic IIx diagram. Based on the distance from the sweet spot to the back wall (8 feet from center seat, front row in my case), you can calculate the distance between the rear speakers by taking that distance and multiplying it by 1.2 for a distance or 9.6 feet. Here is reference to the Dolby diagram:

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/home_e...omlayout2.html 


Now, from the instructions from Sonance for a 7.1 setup, they recommend about the same distance between rears (6-10 feet) for a *5.1 setup*. The the *7.1 setup* they recommend no farther than 6 feet between rears. Check out the Sonance Symphony S622TRs manual here (link no longer working) .


Here's my current layout with the six foot spacing:










So I'm not sure what to do here.







I would assume I'd want to go with the Dolby recommendation. Maybe split the difference and make them like 7.5 or 8 feet? Any recommendations? The S622TRs have both pivoting tweeters and woofers, so that'll help.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I'd keep them at 6' apart -- they'd already each be 3' from either side wall, and I wouldn't want to go closer than that. Seems like a good balance on the back wall (essentially centered on either half of the back wall).


----------



## sdurani

Bud,


> Quote:
> _the *7.1 setup* they recommend no farther than 6 feet between rears_



At what distance from the back wall? Or is it a fixed separation no matter how far you're away from the speakers?


Sanjay


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


For what it's worth, my rear surrounds will be around 5.5 feet apart. The angle (I think) is around 162 degrees from the front (72 degrees from the side like you measured). I know it's a bit narrow, but I wanted to keep my back columns as "similarly spaced" apart as my side columns. Plus, I'm going to have 3 sconces on the rear wall.


I'm probably going to sacrifice a bit of something in the surround sound experience, but in my mind if I build it this way, it will sound better than anything else I've heard, so that will do. I guess there has to be a compromise between looks and placement in some cases....


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sanjay!


It doesn't specify how close it is to the wall. Take a look at the diagram on page 2 of the Sonance Symphony S622TRs manual here . The show distance behind the seats at 2.5 feet, but do not disucss distance to the wall. This was for a single row of seating. I will have two rows.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim and Jerrod,


Six feet or eight or nine is doable with my setup, since they're in-ceilings. Since I'm now a drywall expert







, could always move them if I had to. We're talking about a one foot shift for each speaker. I guess it'll come down to personal preference, but not sure I want to move them if I can avoid it and rather get it right the first time. I'm curious why the discrepancy between Sonance and Dolby. As far as looks go, I plan on using linacoustic/GOM to cover the underneath of the soffits, so no need to be concerned there.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Ahh... FYI, that's a pretty big compromise to put any surround speakers in the ceiling (especially when you're going through the work of making it dedicated). They'll end up being too high, and need to be angled down... Any reason you're not putting them on the wall (or in the wall)?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ahh... FYI, that's a pretty big compromise to put any surround speakers in the ceiling (especially when you're going through the work of making it dedicated). They'll end up being too high, and need to be angled down... Any reason you're not putting them on the wall (or in the wall)?



The issue that put me in the is position is the side surrounds really. I was going to do inwalls in the rear, but am concerned about the effect of the sides being higher than the rears. I asked Ascend if there was an any recommended inwalls, but they suggested using a second pair of the S622TRs for the rear. I don't have a lot of options (any really, except on walls above the door and its a tight fit). Then I have the issue of matching the surrounds with the fronts. This seems to be the best compromise as far as matching the Ascends as well as not having speakers mounted on the walls. The good news is that both the woofer assembly and the tweeter pivot. The rear surrounds will be at about 7.5 feet from the riser, a listener seated, maybe 4 feet. Farther obviously from the front row.


Agreed, not an ideal situation. I've been chewing on this for some time. Is it a compromise? Sure. How much of a difference will it make? I'm not sure yet. I've also come to the conclusion that my video tastes are much more particular than my audio tastes. Maybe since I'm getting older and finally got glasses that I can see again!


Bud


----------



## sdurani

Bud,


> Quote:
> _The show distance behind the seats at 2.5 feet_



Look again: the distance is shown as 2' - 6' behind the seats. At first glance it looks like 2' 6" (2.5 feet) but it's not.


> Quote:
> _I'm curious why the discrepancy between Sonance and Dolby._



Because Dolby is giving you angles, which will result in varying spreads depending on how far you are from the speakers. Sonance's recommendation is a distance range, which doesn't make much sense to me.


I mean, what if someone suggested placing your front speakers 8-10 feet apart. Would that give you a wide or narrow front soundstage? I guess it would depend on whether you were 6 feet or 16 feet from the front speakers. I don't see how someone can recommend a spread using numbers instead of angles.


The Dolby recommendation is not something you have to follow strictly. For example: I set my rear speakers up by ear and they ended wider apart than Dolby recommended. If you are more comfortable with Sonance's recommendation, then stick to that. Or split the difference.


Best,

Sanjay


----------



## miltimj

I wonder if you angle them to point at the wall and reflect off of it, if that will help diffuse the sound field so it seems like it's coming more from behind/side and around you, or if it was just make the sound muddy. Something to experiment with. I agree timbre matching is very important.. any reason you don't want them on the walls? Is it a space issue (for walkway)?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, Look again: the distance is shown as 2' - 6' behind the seats. At first glance it looks like 2' 6" (2.5 feet) but it's not.



Good find. I didn't look too close since I'll have two rows and not a lot of room to play with there.



> Quote:
> I mean, what if someone suggested placing your front speakers 8-10 feet apart. Would that give you a wide or narrow front soundstage? I guess it would depend on whether you were 6 feet or 16 feet from the front speakers. I don't see how someone can recommend a spread using numbers instead of angles.



That's a good point.



> Quote:
> The Dolby recommendation is not something you have to follow strictly. For example: I set my rear speakers up by ear and they ended wider apart than Dolby recommended. If you are more comfortable with Sonance's recommendation, then stick to that. Or split the difference.



I'm not totally comfortable with Sonance's recommendation, which is why I posted. There's is only a recommendation, as well. I'll have to play around with them I suppose and see what the impact is at say 6 feet and at 8-9 is.


Thanks for the replies. I'll post the result when I get there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wonder if you angle them to point at the wall and reflect off of it, if that will help diffuse the sound field so it seems like it's coming more from behind/side and around you, or if it was just make the sound muddy. Something to experiment with. I agree timbre matching is very important.. any reason you don't want them on the walls? Is it a space issue (for walkway)?



I'll play with this as well, although not sure how flexible they are to turn 90 degrees, although I can turn them within the hole pretty easily if need be.


If I had the room, I'd do columns and there would be no issue. Trying to maximize the space with seats and because of the position of the front row, the column would be where the door is. I just don't like the look of speakers mounted on the wall, personal preference. I think in-walls and ceilings have come a long way. I know not everyone agrees. I really wanted to go Triads, but just can't justify the cost. I'm trying to get best bang for the buck on my limited budget, hence the Ascends, hence the surround issue.


Bud


----------



## New HT

Bud,


I have thoroughly enjoyed following the progress of your HT. Keep up the good work.


----------



## chinadog

New HT,


Thanks for the compliment and welcome to the forum!


Bud


----------



## davidr2340

Hey Bud,


I see why you have no time to build the poker table!!! The work you are doing is truly inspiring!!!


Keep it up!!!


David


----------



## beatboy77

Yes Bud,


Your work is really motivating me to work on my HT!!


~Josh


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the kind words guys.


Been playing around with the IR stuff some this week, have had a time getting a bug out of the system. I've exchanged emails and phone calls with Larry Beach from Buffalo Electronics. I would post pictures on Fotki (where I post my photos to reference to here) and send Larry the links. Usually 5 minutes after sending my email, I get a phone call from Larry. He's a good guy. Anyway, I have one more thing I need to try today to resolve my issue. I can get my CD player to work remotely, but having my old receiver is not working remotely. We think it has to do with the frequency Kenwood uses. Once thats resolved, I can close up the wall in the bathroom (where the remote shares the wall with the bar, no I don't have a remote-controlled toilet or anything). I have a guy coming out on Saturday to give me an estimate on mudding and IF I use this guy, I want him to do as much as possible, which means getting the outstanding drywall done (not much left though). I plan on completing the soffits in the gameroom and bar area this weekend and possibly the ceiling in the storage room.


Baseball practice starts this weekend for my son, so I'm glad I've gotten as far along as I did, I think things will start to slow down some.


Bud


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I had the room, I'd do columns and there would be no issue. Trying to maximize the space with seats and because of the position of the front row, the column would be where the door is. I just don't like the look of speakers mounted on the wall, personal preference. I think in-walls and ceilings have come a long way.
> 
> 
> Bud



from your layout a few posts above, it looks like there might be a spot for in-walls for the sides right where the riser starts. to the right of the entrance and to the left of the back window.


----------



## chinadog

Rich,


Thanks for the post. If you were referring to the diagram, that window is not exactly in the correct position in the diagram. Its more left than shown. So if you were to put a side surround there, the only place to put the opposite surround is above the door. I think if I had to go above the door, I might as well use the in-ceilings that pivot. With the soffit, there's only about 8 -10 inches in height to play with (due to framing, door trim, crown). To get that surround by the entrance to be at the same distance form the front of the room, I'd have have to move it forward in front of the door at about 8-9 feet and move the seats forward a few feet (and probably shrink the screen down some since it'll be closer).


----------



## chinadog

Well, I was able to get my IR stuff working. I need to play with it some more, I only have on receiver hooked up now, but I'm pretty sure I got it resolved. Need to send Larry an email.


Bud


----------



## beatboy77

Bud,


Are you going with In-Wall Speakers for your HT? If so, what type?


~Josh


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beatboy77* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Are you going with In-Wall Speakers for your HT? If so, what type?
> 
> 
> ~Josh



Beatboy77, see the quote below.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I'd move this here instead of Jerrod's thread, particularly about the Ascend speakers I'll be going with. What I posted orginally over there:
> 
> 
> I'm going with the Ascend 340s in the front. I haven't bought them yet. Because my side surrounds are in a weird location (above the door) and the fact that I didn't want columns, I'm putting in in-ceilings for the side surrounds. I just decided to match the rear surrounds as well, instead of going with in-walls or on-walls. I did a little investigation (including talking to Ascend) and Ascend recommends the S622TRs to match the Ascends. I ordered two pair last week from two different companies and one arrived today. They'll fit perfectly where I need them in the side soffit. Also, the in-ceilings that I put in the bar/gameroom are Hometech, which apparently are also made by Sonance. Anyway, they're pretty reasonable for surrounds. I plan on getting the Ascends in the not so distant future, when I have the cash. In the meantime I'll start building my proscenium and stage using the Ascend dimensions published in mind and adding some for flexibility or change of mind later.
> 
> 
> Here's the Sonance site
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## chinadog

Craig, you're quick!


Josh, only for the surrounds. See the links in the other post for links. The Ascends can be found at the Ascend Acoustics site.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I had a mud estimate today. He wanted 2300.00 (then he came down to 2150.00) for mudding the basement and only the ceiling in the HT room. He said I saved about 700.00 doing drywall myself, but mud would cost more than I thought because I used 8 foot sheets instead of 12 foot which requires additional labor for the extra seams. He also said that if I had them do the whole basement, including the drywall it would have cost about 3800.00. That close to what my neighbor paid. His number included mud, corner beads sanding and cleanup. I may get another estimate, but looks like I'll be doing it myself. Wouldn't be the first time. Granted if I had the cash on hand, I still would have probably done it myself. I figure I'll save another 1800.00 by doing it myself. It may take a month or more, but hey, I've got time. I'll have to post a picture of me on my stilts!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

That quote definitely seems on the high side... Doesn't make any sense to have the drywall hanging 1/2 the price of the mud job... It would have cost a lot more than $700 more if he did it. Since it's already done, he raised the price for the mud only, is my guess.


----------



## Mark P

The mudding part is the nasty part by far, not the actual mudding but the sanding, mudding, sanding final coat mudding, sanding ARRRRGGhhhh but I thought you were going GOM , why not just Fire tape and save about $1200?


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I am going with GOM, that cost only included the ceiling in the HT room! The rest is the gameroom/ bathroom/ bar area/ concession/equipment area and the and a small area at the bottom of the stairs. I guess they go by the number of boards, which he estimates is 80, which is almost right and may be actually low.


Tim,


I think the other piece that adds in there is a factor for all my damn soffits, since its extra outer corners. Not sure how much of a factor that would be though in the price.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the other piece that adds in there is a factor for all my damn soffits, since its extra outer corners. Not sure how much of a factor that would be though in the price.



Good point -- inside and outside corners are the most time consuming process. It still seems a bit high, though... oh well, if you're going to be doing it yourself, enjoy the savings you'll make! It's a good excuse to get slightly better equipment..


----------



## chinadog

Made pretty good progress today on the soffits in the gameroom. Probably another two-three hours to finish them up. I also added the last panel in the HT room and moved two of the cans in my storage room as well as carry down the remaining drywall. I also put my saws away and cleaned up my workshop some. Next thing for me is to finish the soffits, tape and mud the interior of the equipment closet, finish the IR setup, put up concrete board around the tub and finish the drywall in the bathroom. After that, I'll be tapin' and muddin'.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Looks great, I like the rack.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


Thanks and welcome.


Bud


----------



## sportrac

Bud,


I have been following your progress for awhile now. It's looking really nice.


I will be happy if mine HT comes out half as nice as yours.


William


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sportrac, thanks and welcome. Although it's gone by like a blurr, it seems to be taking forever. I've got a ways to go. Good luck with yours. Tucker is on the east side of Atlanta, out I20?


Bud


----------



## sportrac

Actually it is close to where 85 and 285 cross on the north side.


----------



## chinadog

Sportrac, Got it, thats right.


All,


Well, mud has begun. I just got back upstairs from the basement and did all the seams in the HT room. Still need to do all the corners, but will get to it.


Ahhh, the fun is just starting. Pictures to follow.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few pictures of the HT room with some mud. Most of the seams have one coat, as do the butt joints. The screw heads have two coats. I used fiberglass tape on the joints. I did one seam in the equipment closet with the regular tape (mud first, then tape) and said "forget that". I'd rather have the adhesive on the mess tape and the re-enforced joints, especially on the ceilings. I plan on using this tape/metal corners for the inside and outside corners. I used the outer corner ones last time and they work pretty well. I'm going to try the inside corners this time. They come in 16 foot lengths and I did not have the right car to bring them home last time I was at HD, otherwise I would have started them too. Here is some info on these type of tape-on corner beads. I don't think these are the ones that HD carries, I don't remember the name, although USG makes one called BEADEX, so my guess is its theirs. Anyway, gives you an idea as to what I'll be using: http://www.dietrichindustries.com/pr...og_170-178.pdf 


You'll notice that I have not covered the windows yet. I need a few more sheets of drywall. I actually may use green board if I have some left over from the bathroom. I also have a plan in my head for the proscenium/stage. Once I take some measurements, I'll be able to finalize my plans and finish the front soffit and the side soffits. The rear soffit I'll probably do last.


Here is the front wall:










Here is the backwall:










Here is the ceiling:










Bud


----------



## Mark P

Looks like you and I are on the same page except I got lazy and had a friend come and save me the headache, those pros are amazing , 1 day rock 4 hours fire tape


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like you and I are on the same page...



Mark,


Thanks, but not exactly. I'm working on a home theater, you're working on the Palace Theater in your home. Just saw your status, simply amazing. Can't wait to see yours done, forget mine!


Bud


----------



## Mark P

Bud,

Not my home, well sort of since the actual owner is never here but this is on a horse ranch my wife and I manage. After remodeling our home on the ranch the owner asked if I wanted to " tackle" his Home Theater hes been waiting years to build until he found someone as mentally sick as he was to tackle the abomination.


I am enjoying almost every second of it since I am designing on the fly with his input or shall I say " Thats sounds mental, go for it" approval.


My dedicated HT will start this winter after I am done "practicing" on his.


We are looking like we are on the same page in progress and I hope you stay a little ahead so I can learn from you, I like the detailed progress reports like yours


----------



## chinadog

Finished the underneath portion of the soffits yesterday and tossed out a bunch of drywall scraps. Had some time this morning before baseball and taped some of the seams in the gameroom and bar.



















I'll finish the drywall in the bathroom next Saturday and Saturday night we're doing a "Movie Under the Stars" and a barbeque here. Sunday is golf and a night out with the boys, Labor Day, more mud and tape.


Guess I better fix the date on that camera, as well!!!


Bud


----------



## reaper

Nice. You are coming along nicely







Keep going.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Not my home, well sort of since the actual owner is never here but this is on a horse ranch my wife and I manage. After remodeling our home on the ranch the owner asked if I wanted to " tackle" his Home Theater hes been waiting years to build until he found someone as mentally sick as he was to tackle the abomination.
> 
> 
> I am enjoying almost every second of it since I am designing on the fly with his input or shall I say " Thats sounds mental, go for it" approval.
> 
> 
> My dedicated HT will start this winter after I am done "practicing" on his.
> 
> 
> We are looking like we are on the same page in progress and I hope you stay a little ahead so I can learn from you, I like the detailed progress reports like yours



Geez, well I guess this is great way to practice in preparation for your own HT. Pretty cool, I hope he's paying you for it!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Saturday night we're doing a BBQ and having a movie night for the neighborhood. I'll spend Saturday afternoon setting things up and will take pictures. I'll post a few here.


Here are the tickets I made with the Excel ticket maker MikeWh posted in this thread. Works great!!



















Enjoy your holiday!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

So what's your plan for handing out the tickets? When do you give them to the guests? Also, where are you going to show the movie? Those tickets are pretty cool! I haven't noticed that program yet (though I don't have a need for it yet, either...)


----------



## chinadog

My wife made up a flyer and imported the tickets, so we're just handing out the flyers to the neighbors, includes all the relevant info, time to arrive, what to bring, etc. We did these last year. I have a screen I built out of PVC and a sheet we hang off the back deck and we take all the furniture on the deck and bring it down in the yard.


Last time we played Shrek and every time someone said "Donkey", the men had to drink. Made for an interesting evening!


Bud


----------



## OnlyOne

I love following threads like this. I'm jealous as hell; this is a beautiful project you have here!


Keep those pictures coming, I can't get enough.


----------



## chinadog

OnlyOne,


Thanks dude!


All,


Bought and installed a few inside corners today. Also picked up two more buckets of mud. I just finished one so far, believe it or not, but I have not started the ceiling yet. Seams use more than you think. The inside and outside corner tape (with metal) that I mentioned a few threads ago from HD are actually USG and are 10 feet long. They're pretty easy to install. First you need to cut them to length. You then mud the corners on both sides about two-three inches. You insert the corner and press it in place, then go over the corner with a mud knife (the inside corner one works well). This will make it adhere to the corner. You can then take a mud knife and run it along the sides to pick up all the extra mud. I then put one layer of mud on one side of the corner. When it dries enough, I'll do the other side and keep alternating until its done. Here are some pictures of the corners uninstalled (inside and out) and installed with one layer of mud.


The inside corners have smaller widths. The other corners have a lot more tape to them. If you look close, you can see the metal on the bottom pieces.










Here is one installed by the bar, with one coat of mud on the left side (and still wet). These are pretty easy to work with and give the corner some strength. I probably won't use these on the ceilings because I plan on crown everywhere. I will probably use these on the HT room ceiling since I don't plan on crown in that room.









*EDIT:* Here is another picture of an outside corner. The right side has been mudded. The mud looks wider on the top because I had a vertical seam there and thats been mudded as well.










Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Appreciate the behind the scenes tips Bud. Very helpful, any thing I can learn by watching. You can't imagine how surprised I was to discover that a brad nailer was smaller than a finish nailer. To my untrained ears a finish nailer sounded like the small job device. Wasted two Sundays on my living room trim project (faux wainscoating, finishing up this weekend) because I kept splitting the wood using nails that were too big.


Home-ownership is an adventure.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


No problem. I'm sure people do things different, but these corners are great. Maybe it'll help someone else out. I have a brad nailer, wouldn't want to do trim without it. I'll start that adventure in the not so distant future. I actually enjoy the trim work (helps when you have a compound mitre, brad nailer and compressor though). Crown on the other hand is a pain in the butt, but I'll get through it in due time.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

chinadog,


Question for you. I see your outlets flush with the sheetrock. if you are using GOM or some other fabric on the walls, and you put furring strips up first (guessing you would be doing this) to staple to, won't the outlets be too far behind the GOM to use? Don't the outlet boxes need to be sticking out of the wall 3/4 to 1 inch?


I know this is a far out question with many assumptions, but I thought I'd bring it up to hear what you plan to do with the GOM and the outlets.


gary


----------



## chinadog

Hey Gary,


Actually, the boxes are the Carlton adjustable type you get at Big Orange. They were only recessed while I got the drywall up. I've adjusted most of them already in the HT room, but haven't gotten to them all. I do plan on GOM and will build boxes for around the switches to give me something to staple to.


A few pictures:



















Bud


----------



## garykagan

"Carlton adjustable type you get at Big Orange"


Cool - that is good to know. I probably should return all the regular boxes I bought at HD.


But what is the Carlton Adj type from Big Orange? They got one of those in NJ?


Never heard of those....


Gary


----------



## BFauska

Gary,


I may be wrong, but I believe that "Big Orange" is a reference to HD's trademark color. I think you'll just be doing an exchange, not returning and going to another store.


Bud,


Looking good, your basement is one of my favorite threads, it's an inspiration for the day I start building a whole house with a basement all about good times. I think I need some money and land first, but I'm not sure










Good luck with your outdoor theater Saturday... Do you burn the intro Reaper helped everyone out with to a disk and use it for your outdoor theater nights? That would be cool.


Later,

Brian


----------



## chinadog

Gary,


Brian is correct. Sorry for the confusion. Big Orange or Big Orange Box is a direct reference to Home Depot. And my apologies, they're *Carlon*, not Carlton. See pictures below.


Brian,


Thanks! I'm amazed by the number of people that follow it, I'm glad people are enjoying it or getting something out it. I have not burned the DVD yet, but will try it today. A few threads ago I said I canceled that laptop I bought, but then reordered it after a second hard drive crashed. I didn't have a DVD burner before, but I do now.







I'll have to run to Staples and pick up some blank DVDs on the way back from Home Depot. Going to be a busy day setting up.


Carlon boxes:


















Info on the Carlon site and the sites main page 


Bud


----------



## Mark P

Do you know how you going to GOM your recessed Can lights yet? Are you using a track system or just using shims with valances?


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I'll probably build frames out of 1/2 inch plywood (two pieces together). I'll make a square, then cut out a circle and secure. At least thats what I'm thinking at this point.


Bud


----------



## BFauska

For tonights show, you could always run the whole thing from the laptop instead of a DVD player, then you wouldn't have to burn the disk.


Enjoy your movie night,

Brian


----------



## larryep

great info chinadog. I am in the proces of building my basement. I framed all of the basement except the theater. starting on that now.


----------



## garykagan

Brian / Bud - got it thanks. I will switch to them. I feel like such a tart. Should have got the Big Orange reference. Thanks guys...


Also - saw the post about GOM and the cans. You putting GOM on the ceiling as well (assuming thats the cans he's talking about)? I thought GOM is just for walls. Learn something every day.


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Gary,


Just the soffits. Not the main ceiling. I'll be covering the soffits in linacoustic, so therefore the GOM.


Brian,


Just didn't get the opportunity to do it and forgot! I was rushing up until the last minute getting things organized and people started showing up, so I ended up just forgetting about it. You're right though, I should have done the laptop thing, did that last time.


Larry,


Thanks and good luck, Looking forward to YOUR thread!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, we pulled it off. As I mentioned above, I was scrambling today. Did some mud in the AM including some outside soffit corners, then had to stop and cut the grass. After that, I needed to make a new screen. I was running out of time, so I ended up doing it in one inch PVC and a painters drop cloth. It worked, but I really wanted to build a wood frame. We had a full house for the first movie, but it was just my family for the second. We just wrapped up.


Here are a few pictures of this evening. The screen was 8 feet by 14 feet, but we did not fill the whole screen. I threw in Nemo to check the colors, but ended up watching what we said we would. The screen had a few wrinkles when I opened it, so I used my wifes steam cleaning thingie and for the most part, it worked well. I had two seams in the cloth, but they were not noticeable. In fact you could not see any wrinkles. I added rope light to the tent, worked out great as well.











































Next time, I'll build a wooden frame and staple the cloth on, then paint it ceiling white.


Bud


----------



## BFauska

Bud,

Glad your evening was a success. Looks like you have a great house and yard out there. That's an impressive porch too. Too bad about the intro and stuff, but if you did everything all-out the first time then what would you do to impress everybody later. This way it builds and you will never cease to amaze your friends and family. That's how you keep 'em coming back. "What do you think he'll do this time?", always keep them guessing.


Congratulations on your theater under the stars (no fiber-optics necessary.)


Later,

Brian


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Nice looking place. I gotta move south. . .


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys, we've been there just two years now. You do get a lot for your money. I grew up in CT, but coming to this area is like doubling your income. You still get a lot for the money, even with the prices of homes creeping up.


Bud


----------



## rfisk

Nice job, Bud!!










Randy


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Randy!


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Did you project front the back side of the painters cloth, or is the projector sitting outside?! I think the picture looks really good!! Nice job!


-Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Thanks. Projected on the front. The back has a support post for the deck as well as a support for the frame. The projector is sitting on a table, you can see it if you look close at the last picture. I was pretty amazed how well it looked, being so big and relative close, probably about 20 feet. I was also surprised you couldn't see the wrinkles in the screen.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I did wanted to post some progress. I did some mud work over the weekend and took yesterday off to work in the basement as well. I now have the first coat on all my outside corners done on my soffits in the gameroom/bar, as well as all my interior corners (including where the wall and soffits meet). I also did a final coat on the horizontal seams, but still need one more coat on the butt joints. I still have the ceiling to do. I also did the second coat on all the butt joints in the HT room.


Coming slowly, but its coming. I'll probably hold off any additional work until the end of the week.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud!


I know I need to swing by to check out your setup. Unfortunately have spent the last month out on the west coast. Looks like you are coming along nicely - ah the advantages of working from a "remote location!"


Got a new beamer for you to try - this one will really spoil you! Hopefully we can get together within the next few weeks.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Give me a shout, always here. Looking forward to hooking up.


Bud


----------



## larryep

regarding outside movie watching


here is a link for an inflatable
http://www.summercinema.com/


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I did wanted to post some progress. I did some mud work over the weekend and took yesterday off to work in the basement as well. I now have the first coat on all my outside corners done on my soffits in the gameroom/bar, as well as all my interior corners (including where the wall and soffits meet). I also did a final coat on the horizontal seams, but still need one more coat on the butt joints. I still have the ceiling to do. I also did the second coat on all the butt joints in the HT room.
> 
> 
> Coming slowly, but its coming. I'll probably hold off any additional work until the end of the week.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud... you are da man for tackling drywall mudding.

It's a tough skill to master.

You might think you are coming along slowly, but for the rest of us... at least for me anyway, you are moving right along. Keep it going.



Craig


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Pretty cool. I've seen a variation of that, but that looks pretty nice. I bet it's not cheap.


Craig,


If I had a block of time I could probably use the fast drying mud and get it done quicker. Unfortunately, I usually only have a few hours here or there so I'll mud one side of inside corner, then do a different corner, mud a seam and use whatever mud is left on the knife to cover some screw holes. I feel like I'm bouncing around the room a lot and not getting one thing done at a time. You have to be patient with this stuff as well, if you rush it, makes a mess and thats more sanding later.


On top of the squeeze for time now, I'm considering seriously switching jobs and/or companies. I'm not sure how that'll impact my progress, but would expect that I'll have even less time. I've got some tough decisions to make.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Hey Bud,


Question for you...


I was looking at your drywall hanging photos and it looks like you wired up all of your switches and outlets prior to hanging the drywall. I had always thought I'd do that after drywall -- I guess because that's the way the electricians did it when they built our house -- but now that I think about it, it seems perfectly logical to hook up what you can beforehand. Especially if you're not an electrician and you just want to make sure some things work before covering the walls!!!


But that raises a question for me. Did you cut the switch and outlet holes in place with a rotozip or something? Seems like it would be pretty easy to mess up an outlet or switch with a rotozip -- at least if I was the one doing it.







Or did you do more of the measure, then cut, then hang method?


----------



## jerrodshook

I know what you mean about bouncing around. It's much easier to find yourself doing that when you're finishing an enitre basement like the 2 of us are. I need to update my thread, but have been re-pulling all my coax and Cat 5, and building soffits. Nothing much in the theater though.


Looks good Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Good find and good question. Glad you brought it up. Yes, normally thats the case and you usually do the rough in electrical work then drywall then put in all the switches and outlets later. Since my father-in-law did all the electrical work and lives 1000 miles away, it was just easier to do it that way than having to make two trips. This way you can actually use the outlets and switches as well, plus we know everything works prior to the drywall going up. It allowed me to play around with where I wanted the switches, cans, etc. In the early pictures I had sconces in the HT room and later removed them. I also moved a bunch of cans several times and changed out positions of some outlets and switches a few times. It allows you to get a feel for how things are laid out without having to wait for the drywall to go up (too late then anyway).


A few things to point out. First, as you eluded to, you can't just stick a rotozip tool in there and carve out the box once the drywall goes up. This is a preference thing though. I prefer to measure and cut with a dywall saw and razor knife. The rotozip (I have a Dremel with a drywall bit) gets pretty messy with all the dust. I only used my Dremel when I had to. Same with the cans, I measured the outer edges, drew the box, found the center of the square and used a circle tool/drywall saw to cut it out. I tried the lipstick trick, but preferred to do it this way (and didn't want to ruin all my lipstick, er.. my wife's lipstick... yeah, thats the ticket).


We also took off those little "ears" on the top and bottom of all the outlets and most of the switches were we could. These little ears extend past the basic box size and are a pain in the ass because they get in the way of the drywall when you're putting it on the wall and you have to trim the drywall for them. By removing the four ears (not the center ones) you can slap the drywall up with the outlet/switch in place pretty easily. The dimmers that were installed had to be unscrewed from box and pulled through the hole then rescrewed back in the box since those particular (rocker type) dimmers have "fins" for heat dispersement and extend past the outside of the switch box. The wires were not removed from the dimmer, the outlet just hung out out of the box an inch or two just until the drywall went up. Electricians please chime in here, but I believe those ears were used when plaster walls were popular and are not really needed, although the give some support of the switch/outlet againest the drywall. The ears have a little line across them and with a few bends using a plier, then pop right off.


Of course, you probably want to turn the power off to that circuit in the area you're drywalling so you don't put a screw through a live wire. I didn't, but its probably a smart thing to do.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Yeah, its funny. Its like organized chaos sometimes. I hate redundant stuff, so this allows me to shake things up a little. Of course it seems to take longer to complete one thing. It'll all come together in the end!


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,


Thanks for the explanation. I might just try that method myself, assuming I hang my own drywall. I'm not sure if I want to tackle that or not, but I'm a pretty staunch DIYer most of the time and will probably at least give it a shot before hiring out.


Jerrod,


You can count me in on the whole-basement-finishing crowd as well. I think I've been saying that I'm about 90% done with framing for about a month now. But it's really those last few details that eat your time. Soffits, nailers, short little walls that you put off for various reasons -- it all adds up! I can't wait to complete framing and move on. I have some central vac rough in to do first, then it's on to electrical!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. I might just try that method myself, assuming I hang my own drywall. I'm not sure if I want to tackle that or not, but I'm a pretty staunch DIYer most of the time and will probably at least give it a shot before hiring out.



Steve,


Get yourself a lift if you plan on doing it. I could not have done it without it. Are you planning on attempting the mud?


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,


My original thought was to hang it myself and then hire someone to do the mud. But some people have warned me that that's not the best plan since many finishers would rather not work on someone else's hanging job. I'm not sure if that's really the case or not, so I'll probably just get some estimates both ways and see for myself.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I think thats the case for the most part. They ding you on just the mud job because "they would have used 12 foot sheets" or "you have too many seams". The way I looked at it was that it saved me quite a bit, but it'll just take a lot longer (crew of one -> me, with a little help from my old man). If you have the time, its not a big deal... a little messy, but doable.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,


It seems drywall lifts are readily available on ebay for the same as you paid. I just checked rental rates and they're not too bad, $54/wk or $162/(4 wks), but using the normal rule of thumb that it always takes me twice as long as I originally plan for, I will certainly save by just buying my own and reselling it when I'm done.


So, my question is, using the drywall lift is it _really_ a one man job? I'm thinking of just getting one, but it _has_ to be doable by myself alone because most likely I won't have any help.


----------



## Mark P

Instead of cutting the ears off outlets and such you can always leave them un-screwed and stick them horizontily in the box when sheetrocking and mudding, just becareful not to touch the sides is all,


Watching the pros do my latest project I learned ALOT. I have odds and ends sheetrocking to do like behind the screen (done) and other odd and ends and my friend introduced me to hot mud, dries in 45 minutes and really speeds things up without cracking and the Loooooong mud drying waits. he taped and mudded my equiptment room to a finished room in 2 hours ( about 30 minutes of actual work using 20 minute mud on finish top coat)


I tried it behind the screen wall and was really impressed with the speed after a little practice, mixing it seems the hardest step.


I am certainly in the roto-zip club instead of sawing, I can usually get my son or wife to hold the wet-dry vac hose close to the cutting area if I want to stay spotless


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


For the most part, you can do 90% yourself. If you can pick up an 8 foot sheet by yourself, you can pretty much do it yourself. You just need to put it on the lift. My father helped me with the small pieces around the soffits because it was easy to do small pieces without the lift and he was eager to help. Also, I have someone who is going to buy the lift from me (meeting him next weekend as a matter of fact), so you can recoup some of the costs of the lift and you have it as long as you need it.


Mark,


True on the ears. I have small kids (4 and 5) and I didn't want all them hanging out, just in case. Under different circumstances, I would have done it that way probably.


I was aware of the fast drying mud, but was concerned that it dried too quick. For my skills, its probably ok to use for small things, but for larger areas, I'll stick with the regular mud. If I were on some time crunch and needed to do it in a few days or a week, its a good option. I don't usually have more than a few hours here or there and maybe a day on the weekend if I'm lucky, therefore the drytime is not a big deal.


The other problem I had with the Dremel was "wandering". Sometimes I'm not actually up against the box or can and I end up going off on a tangent. I did use the Dremel for windows and doors though. I would just put up the drywall over the area and then cut out the opening. Still had some wandering problems, but used a rasp to clean up the edges.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

All,


Monday was a very tragic day here. I don't want to put a damper on this thread and actually discuss the event here, but want to let you know that I'll be taking some time off from the basement to spend some more time with the family, neighbors and friends. Rest assured though, I'll be back.


For those metro Atlanta people that read the AJC or watch the news, you probably heard of the carjacking/cement truck accident. Kim, the victim, was our neighbor and our friend, our sons go to school and play together. My wife would babysit for their two year old. Kim was here last weekend and her husband and daughter are pictured in the last photo of my movie-night post. We're all shocked and saddened by the event that occurred and really puts things in perspective. We'll miss her and our hearts go out to her family. As I sit here typing this, I can see her house and the visits from family members, neighbors and friends. They are also fellow HT enthusiasts and completed their HT and basement last fall.


As for Shawn Roberts, he is also a resident here in our subdivision. I don't know Shawn, but plan on trying to meet him at some point and shake his hand for what he did for Kim.


For those others outside of ATL, here are a few links about what happened.

Carjacker, Victim Killed in Cobb 
Police ID Dead Cobb Carjacker 
Carjacking Victim Laid to Rest 
Carjacking Victim's Family Mourns 
Police:Carjacker Linked to Rape 
Carjacking Widower Goes to Capitol 
Accomplishments This 2006 Legislative Session 
Bridge Dedicated to Slain Mother 


Talk to you guys soon.


Bud

*EDIT: I updated these links as information became available.*


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


Very sad news! My wife and I send our deepest condolences to the family!!

We completely understand that the HT won't be a priority right now. Keep your chin up and help the family through this difficult time!


Sean and Kathe

(MaximAvs and MaximAvWife)


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


You have my condolences. It's things like this in life that really put things in perspective. Take care!


Jerrod


----------



## OnlyOne

That's awful. My condolences.


----------



## Mark P

Thats the worst thing I have heard in a long, long while.


Remember that movie Boys dont Cry? our niece was the girl with the Baby ( innocent bystander . Her Mom didn't give permission to let Hollywood use her part in the movie even though they sort of did.


We know how this sort of thing sucks beyond belief. Condolences


----------



## maximavwife

Chinadog,

although Sean has already conveyed our condolences I wanted to present mine personally. The news of your young neighbor's violent death made me cry. My heart goes out to her family. Please know that our thoughts are with them and also with you and your family.


Kath

wife of MaximAvs


----------



## Stefan Young

Bud, check your PM.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the kind words and wishes. A publicist volunteered to help, I sent a family photo to her yesterday. She's planning to go national with the story to try and raise money for the kids education fund. Funeral is at noon today.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

With deepest condolences to the family,


Gary Kagan


----------



## r00ster

Bud, I have been following your posts for some time now with much enthusiasm as I am getting ready for the electrical stage in my basement/HT. However, I am saddened by your recent post and wanted to let you know my condolences. If you find Shawn Roberts shake his hand for me. Take all the time you need with your family as we will all be here when you get back.


Drew


----------



## larryep

Bud i am sorry to hear this bad news. you and your friends are in my thoughts.


----------



## purple6816

My condolences.


Hope to see you back soon. It has been great reading your thread.


----------



## Atmosfear

Likewise, my condolances Bud. I haven't posted much, but I've followed your entire thread, and found myself deeply shocked and disturbed; hearing something on the news vs hearing something like this from somebody you know... it just drives home the reality.


I guess what I'm saying is that I (and I imagine several/many others in this thread) have gotten to know you relatively well, so it's not just a statistic... more like a friend of a friend, and it's scary when something happens that close to you, even if it's a thousand miles away. I was at work when I saw your post, and I called my fiance who was on her drive home, just to make sure she was ok... feeling silly all the while, but compelled to call nonetheless.


I can't imagine... but I'm very sorry for you, your family, and particularly her family.


----------



## chinadog

All, just wanted to thank everyone for their kind words, prayers and wishes.


Mike Boyd (husband) is now trying to have something good come out of all this by pushing legislation to come up with some sort of alert (dubbed the Kimberly alert) that will alert the public when a criminal is on the run and the police are unable to find him. He's also talking about a secret PIN that you could enter into an ATM that would allow you to get cash, but also alert authorities that there is a problem. He's been on the news quite a bit and I know he's going to meet with the governors office this week.


I did meet Shawn Roberts after the funeral and shook his hand. My wife spoke with his wife for a while and he's doing ok (media is all over him) and he's still a little shook up.


Also, an education fund was set up for the kids. If anyone is interested to contributing to the fund, please PM me. A website should be up soon as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

All,


Just a quick post to let you know that I'll be back to work sometime this weekend hopefully. I want to finish up the final coats of mud on the walls/corners in the gameroom so I can focus on the ceilings. I also need to get moving on my concession area, I have not done any seams yet. I also want to get on the second code of mud on the HT room ceiling. It's finally starting to cool off here some, so I'll be able to open the windows some while sanding.


Also, the lift is gone...... sold and delivered to fellow AVSer, TheFerret. Another glutton for punishment!


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Chinadog...


Glad to see you are starting on the thater again. You know the saying.. idle hands and all!










Looking forward to seeing updated photos and watching the progress of your theater in the upcoming months!!










A guy here at work is going to start putting in a HT in his new house and I pointed him to the AVS Forum and your thread specifically, for information and ideas. Needless to say he was WOWED already!!


-Sean


----------



## Maggie Guy

Bud,

Sorry to hear about the unfortunate events over the last month. I am glad to see you getting back to your project. I have started construction on my second HT room at a my

new home and I am debating wether to get involved with the sheetrock. I did everything on my last room and that was my least favorite part. Just in case I decide to do it again,

do you think TheFerret might be interested in passing on the lift?


----------



## chinadog

Guys,


Looking forward to starting up again and getting over the mud hump. I think it'll keep me focused.


Maggie Guy,


Funny, the kids and I were just looking at a GSD rescue website at a dog we're talking about adopting named " Maggie ". Anyway, back to the question about the lift. I believe he said he'll probably sell it when he's done with it, although he hasn't started yet as far as I know. He said he just had 120 sheets delivered. You might want to PM him, I'm not sure of his timeframe. He's up your way as well.


Bud


----------



## Maggie Guy

Bud,

Thanks for the info. I actually got the name from the speakers I used to own made by Magnepan. Most owners refer to them as Maggies. I started off with their smallest model the MMG and worked my way up to the MG20's which are about the size of a large door.

Anyway I will PM theferret if I decide to do the sheetrock myself.


----------



## reaper

I offer my condolences. Sorry for the loss.










Glad to see you're back at it. Can't wait to see some more images of your theater as it continues to come together.


I thought TheFerret had a finished theater. Maybe I remembered incorrectly...


----------



## chinadog

Sorry guys, no photos. Battery on the digital camera went dead. I'm not sure you'd want any more pictures of mud anyway. Boring, boring, boring.


I did manage to spent a few hours in the basement. I did the first coat on the corners and all the seams in the concession area. I had already done the screw heads. I also worked on the corners in the HT room. Love using these corners, makes it pretty easy.


Cleaned up some as well. I picked up a new broom from Big Orange, one with soft bristles to sweep up drywall dust with. Put my old broom to shame, it was like I never swept at all.


Not likely I'll get too much done this week or even weekend. Work is going to heat up this week for me and I also need to prepare for next weeks certification board interviews for work in Baltimore. Fun stuff (not). I expect my wife will be doing quarter end close stuff this weekend as well, so I'll be doing kid duty, too.


Bud


----------



## EssXareD

First of all, let me say sorry to hear about the unfortunate events. I read through one of the links, and it is quite sad; I hope all involved are doing as well as possible. This is my first post here, so I thought this was as good a time as any to jump in. I see much of this kind of thing at work, and know how hard it can be when someone close to you is affected. Anyway...


I spent the morning reading through most of your thread before I had to go out and fly, and got alot out of it. Thanks for adding all the details and updates, it really helps.


I've been lurking here for awhile now, but am now ready to start on our basement buildout, including a somewhat modest HT (as little modesty as I can get away with, given the spousal restraints







). Seeing your progress really helps, and I appreciate the time you took to keep everyone apprised of your efforts.


Good luck with the rest of it, and I'll be checking back to see how it comes along!


Jeff

(former lurker)


----------



## chinadog

On a lighter note...


Well, I had this photo loaded in my digital camera before the battery went out. It shows me hard at work on the HT room, slaving away.











Thanks for the inspiration, Chirpie. I just have a weird sense of humor!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EssXareD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First of all, let me say sorry to hear about the unfortunate events. I read through one of the links, and it is quite sad; I hope all involved are doing as well as possible. This is my first post here, so I thought this was as good a time as any to jump in. I see much of this kind of thing at work, and know how hard it can be when someone close to you is affected. Anyway...
> 
> 
> I spent the morning reading through most of your thread before I had to go out and fly, and got alot out of it. Thanks for adding all the details and updates, it really helps.
> 
> 
> I've been lurking here for awhile now, but am now ready to start on our basement buildout, including a somewhat modest HT (as little modesty as I can get away with, given the spousal restraints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Seeing your progress really helps, and I appreciate the time you took to keep everyone apprised of your efforts.
> 
> 
> Good luck with the rest of it, and I'll be checking back to see how it comes along!
> 
> 
> Jeff
> 
> (former lurker)




Jeff,


Thanks and welcome. I wouldn't have done it any other way. I can relate to the spousal constraints! Good luck with your project. Keep us posted.



Reaper,


Not sure, but TheFerret may be going from a shared to a dedicated space as well as a basement buildout.


Bud


----------



## larryep

Chinadog you must use the same gym as Chirpie.


----------



## Tom Harness












In a home theater no one can hear you scream.


Sorry guys. I must learn to curb my impulses. Bud, you and Chirpie are doing a fantastic job. I'm enjoying both construction threads.


Tom


----------



## vancouvercanuck

Looks great.


----------



## chinadog

HA!!!!


Separated at birth... Now we need a picture of the three of us with Chirpie's real twin!


I'd like to be a fly on the wall when Chirpie sees these posts!


Bud


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HA!!!!
> 
> 
> Separated at birth... Now we need a picture of the three of us with Chirpie's real twin!
> 
> 
> I'd like to be a fly on the wall when Chirpie sees these posts!
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL!


I just snorted my Starbucks double shot espresso... dear god... ack! (where's my Kleenex?)


Looks like someone has too much idle time on their hands! Get back to work! 


At least now I know what I'd look like as a bobble head. ^_^


----------



## chinadog

Sorry, that was a quick Photoshop job this am before I had my coffee. If I had a few extra minutes, I would have given myself some hair!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sitting here re-reading a few posts and now I'm second guessing.


I was wondering if I really need linacoustic under the soffits? I know some folks have done that and that was what I had planned to do. Someone help me out here. Is there a good reason to do this? Since most people use it at ear level and below on the side walls, does it make sense to put it under the soffits? I'll do it if it makes sense, but its a lot easier not to do it obviously. I'll be the first to admit I know nothing about acoustics....


Comments?


Bud


----------



## Rob_McArthur

That's a question I would like to hear the answer to as well. I am almost to the point of installing my linacoustic as well but I am opting out of installing it under the soffits. My reasoning is that I do not want to over-dampen the room and end up with it too dead. I am using bass traps as well as lincoustic on the lower half of the walls. I feel that a dead room lacks envelopment and clarity.


----------



## r00ster

I too would like to know what everyone thinks about this...I graciously borrowed Bud's soffit idea with a few minor tweaks (thanks Bud!) for "The Fly-In". I was planning on using linacoustic in my HT as well but could save the cost on that for other items. BTW where are you guys purchasing the linacoustic? I live in Denver where JM has it's HQ and would you believe that HomeDepot and Lowes do not carry it? I suppose I could get it straight from the source or from a HVAC installer.


Drew


----------



## Milt99

r00ster,

No retailer carried linacoustic in my area either.

I contacted JM and got the name of a local distributor.

They were great and priced nice as well.

FYI, the technical folks at JM were very knowledgeable and straight forward

about their product lines.


----------



## chinadog

Also, its not really an expense thing. I was quoted 160.00 for a 100 foot roll, which would be plenty to cover the front wall and half way up the side walls plus the soffits. The question is whether is worthwhile for the extra effort or is doing the walls sufficient. It'll has some impact on the final cove size as well.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud,


What's your schedule like this week? Have a Panny AE700, AE900 and JVC HX1 we need to put through the paces.


Ben


----------



## sportrac

Bud,


Where are you purchasing the Linacoustic? I haven't found a HVAC company yet that carries it here on the east side.


Thanks

William


----------



## rfisk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just have a weird sense of humor!
> 
> and
> 
> If I had a few extra minutes, I would have given myself some hair!



Bud, I just hope you have a GOOD sense of humor!











I worked on your tan too. You should get outdoors more.


Randy


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfisk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I just hope you have a GOOD sense of humor!
> 
> 
> I worked on your tan too. You should get outdoors more.
> 
> 
> Randy



Dear god, I should've never posted that picture... **** man, all I wanted to do was show people I was bald like Bud....


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Just got back from Baltimore a few seconds ago. Will be here the rest the of the week. Tomorrow and Friday I'll be here all day.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sportrac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Where are you purchasing the Linacoustic? I haven't found a HVAC company yet that carries it here on the east side.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> William



Sportrac,


There is a NBHandy in GA. Here's the number and address

*2980 Evergreen Dr, Suite 100, Duluth

678-225-0012
*


You can probably get more info from the webiste if you need it....
www.nbhandy.com 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


I'm 6'4", so with that fro, that would make me like 8 feet tall. I might have to raise the door height in the HT room.


Chirpie,


It's not the picture, it's the sick minds that decided what to do with it. Maybe I should start a new thread that's dedicated just to that picture and all the Photoshop variations. Could be fun!


Bud


----------



## rfisk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm 6'4", so with that fro, that would make me like 8 feet tall. I might have to raise the door height in the HT room.



Might consider avoiding the can lights, too. Poof!


Randy


----------



## sportrac

Thanks Bud. They seem to be much closer to me than they do you.



William


----------



## chinadog

Well, I just posted a new thread about the soffit/linacoustic question figuring it may get some exposure from the acoustical wizards out there. Gee, apparently not every member reads this thread.... go figure! Probably a good thing for Chirpie....


Anyway, here's the new thread, hopefully we'll get some more info.

Yet another acoustic/linacoustic question 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sportrac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They seem to be much closer to me than they do you.
> 
> 
> William



True, but not a problem. Since I work out of the house, it's nice to take an occasional road trip! As long is not during rush hour (when is it *not* rush hour in Atlanta?).


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (when is it *not* rush hour in Atlanta?).



When you're a visitor from L.A...










My wife was suggesting to her friend who recently moved from L.A. that she should leave a bit later to avoid rush hour, and her friend just laughed, and said, "Dear, there's no such thing as rush hour here..."


----------



## chinadog

Well, I'm back at it.


I spent about 5 hours yesterday and another couple hours this AM doing mud. It's like riding a bike. Baseball season for my son is now over, so I'll have some extra time and will start cranking up again. I'm thinking it'll stay take me until the end of the year before I can start priming.


Not sure I'll be posting any pictures until the mud is complete. I'll spare you guys from boredom!


Bud


----------



## handcuff

No such thing as boredom when it comes to an HT progress log and photos.


----------



## chinadog

Keep in mind that I'm still working on the whole basement at once! Somewhere in the order of 1400 square feet. I'm just about complete with the final mud and sanding in game room/bar area, except for the ceilings. I've also completed the walls in the HT room and started that ceiling. I'm hoping by the end of next week end I'll have the trey portion done, but will still need to do underneath the soffits. I've also done the final coats of mud on the walls in the concession area, but I still need to do some sanding. I also need to do the ceilings in there as well. The ceilings are the worst part, but I have stilts, so the mud isn't bad. It's the sanding. I wanted to do all the ceilings at once so I'm not going up and down on the stilts all day long.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Here's a couple of recent, but not very exciting photos of the finished mud in the game room. I also included the concession area and equipment closet.











































Like I said, not very exciting! There is a new house under construction on our street and they recently finished the mud. Man, all the tape lines are perfect. I can't wait to prime and cover mine up!










Bud


----------



## larryep

China dog,


What I would give to be where you are at.I also have roughly 1400 sq. feet.

I am still on plumbing and electric.


----------



## chinadog

You'll get there... pretty soon you'll be passing me, I'm sure!


Bud


----------



## sportrac

My basement is about 1700 sq. ft. I am working on 1 room at a time. I have finished the bathroom; the hallways have just the painting and the floors to finish. The theater has the wiring done and some of the insulation. I had drywall for the theater delivered last Friday. It takes me awhile to haul the 42 sheets down to the basement. The last 2 rooms are used for storage of building material so for. I am sure that it will take me longer to complete but I don't get so bored doing one thing for a long time.


----------



## chinadog

Sportrac,


Can relate and undertstand. I was talking to my Dad about it yesterday. I thought the drywall/mud would be the hump to get over and I still think it is, but there is still so much to do, including tiling the bathroom, trim/doors, stage, riser, proscenium, paint, cabinets, etc. Man, lots of time and money left!


So where's your construction thread?


Bud


----------



## sportrac

I didn't start one. I enjoy reading these threads so much more that I do writing on them.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I just posted a new thread about the soffit/linacoustic question figuring it may get some exposure from the acoustical wizards out there. Gee, apparently not every member reads this thread.... go figure! Probably a good thing for Chirpie....
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's the new thread, hopefully we'll get some more info.
> 
> Yet another acoustic/linacoustic question
> 
> 
> Bud



FYI, based on Greg and others responses on linacoustic under the soffit (thread above), I plan on going with the linacoustic under the soffits. I wanted to tie up that loose end.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I started to mud the ceilings in the gameroom and concession area yesterday and today. I also put the second coat of mud on the ceiling in the HT room. Here's a photo my son snapped of me on my stilts. Unfortunately after he took the photo, he dropped the camera on the concrete floor two seconds after I told him to put the camera away and "don't drop it". He'll be six at the end of the month. I know what *not* to get him for his birthday! Taking the rest of the afternoon off, heading out to see _Chicken Little_.


Chripie, he's your chance for a little payback.











Bud


----------



## miltimj

Nice. At first glance I was thinking, "Bud's more like 8'4", not 6'4"!" Keep up the great work and progress, Bud!


----------



## Geoff Scott

You mean he's a BIG mudder?


Bud: It's been great following your progress. I've gleaned much inspiration from you as a lurker. We've almost finished Scottswoode Cinema. All equipment is up and operating. We just have a little front and sidewall acoustic treatment to go. the results are great.


Good luck with the rest of your project.


Geoff


----------



## chinadog

Geoff, Thanks and welcome. You should start a thread and post some pictures!!!!


Tim, The stilts are great until you fall! I fell when I was on them in my last basement. Ugh, that hurt. Not a very soft or graceful landing.


Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

Falling sucks!

But what really sucks is when someone is watching you and then you fall.

And there lays the DONKEY in all his glory!!

ME of course!


Just finished taping, ready to mop and then prime


----------



## Toxarch

Your son wasn't taking a picture of his father, he was taking a picture of his mudder.


Bud, you are 6'4", what do you need stilts for?


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


Even as tall as I am, I'm not tall enough! The ceilings are 9 feet, so they beat dragging a ladder around. Much more convenient, besides I already had them. Picture of the stilts below.


Kingdome,


Luckily when I fell, I was alone. I actually crossed the feet while walking backwards and hit the wall first, then the ground. Sprained my wrist a little, but it wasn't TOO bad. Could have been a lot worse. Where are your pictures???


Here are the culprits. My son wants to try them, of course. BTW, the camera is working. Not sure why it didn't work before, but I'm not complaining.











Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

yeah, I have some photos.

I will start a thread with a link.

I am getting closer and closer.


----------



## chinadog

Just a quick update with some good news related to the situation with my neighbor who was killed two months ago ( posted here ).


Back on the 3rd of November we held a golf tournament to raise money for their three kids. I was on the committee of about six that planned the tournament. It was a huge success! The tournament sold out in a few weeks, we had thirty odd hole sponsors, raffles, silent and live auctions. We even had a BMW and a Jeep Commander for holes-in-ones. Of course nobody won them. Most of the auction items were donated by corporations and businesses. Publix (grocery store chain) even donated $1000.00 in food and beverages. A local liquor distributor donated three kegs, which went quickly since we put them out on the course.


We managed to raise in the order of $40,000.00 that went to their kids education fund. It was a great time for a great cause. We're probably going to make it an annual event.


Also, FYI, back in that post two months ago I put some links to the news articles online. I've edited that post to include links to the follow on articles. Just thought you guys might want to know.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So what's a home theater thread without some blue tape on the walls? I like to think of it as a like a right to passage.











I admit, the photo and MS Paint job is not my best work, but sort of shows what I'm dealing with. I'm now thinking post mud and trying to plan out the stage and proscenium. I think I plan on doing this on the simpler side with a curved stage, but not overly large. I've been looking at lots of stages to get ideas.


I'm somewhat limited to how deep I can go with it due to the door to the concession area and equipment area on the left. I figure I can go about 30 inches and still have room for molding around the doorway. I'll probably built a false wall to house a 100" screen and have to pull it out far enough to hide the center channel below. Once I figure out where that wall will be, I can then position those 3 four inch cans in the soffit to the best position over the stage. Once thats done, I'll drywall the bottom of that soffit, build the stage and frame out the screen wall.


I'm thinking of the Mitsubishi HC3000U now as an option for a projector, but it's offset may make it difficult to mount and still have the screen 30 inches off the ground and would ideally like to keep it there. The front row would be viewing right at the top of the bottom third of the screen (46" line). I may have to mount the project from the ceiling versus the soffit if I go with that machine. Still some time to figure that out.


Final coat o' mud on the HT ceiling soon (maybe by the end of this week), then I can rebuild my cove. Looking forward to seeing that completed.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

How can you be still up in the air about projector placement (much less projectors) with drywall already in place?


I've agonized over which projector to go with and it seems each with different throw range could require different placement. I am in the final stages of wiring (whole basement), so I still have latitude for this. But it's definitely something I've always figured had to be pretty nailed down prior to drywall.


Incidentally, I'm planning on going with the Panasonic AE700. I would love to go AE900, but need to keep it under 1500 to stay on budget. The 700's are just now starting to be available within that price range.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I know, I know. Drywall is _"not completely complete!"_ Take a look at the soffit though, its all still open under there. It's also open in the soffit area where the projector will go. I left it open for that very reason. I wanted to make a projector decision before closing it up. I'm really itching to do that now. That's one benefit about doing the drywall yourself!


I planned on mounting the projector under the soffit, depending on the offset of the machine selected. All the cables are in place, plus I have conduit in place. I left enough slack to move the cables to the back wall or the front of the soffit. If I decide to move to the front of the soffit though, I'll have to cut back the conduit and reroute it a little, but no big deal, it's all open there still. Fortunately, I decided to leave the conduit empty for future use only. The existing cables are routed outside of the conduit.


I was going to go with the AE700, but the bulb life and replace cost scared me. I was then going to wait on the AE900 and see if there was any improvements. I then started looking at the Z4 and now the Mitsubishi HC3000 since Ben Harper recommended it. I'm hoping he can get one for me to demo for a few hours in the next couple of weeks so I can ensure it'll work the way I want it to. He lives a few miles away.


The AE700/900 and the Z4 seem to have the most flexible throws of the projectors I've looked at and they are still options if the Mits doesn't work out.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

Aha! Well that makes more sense. Just curious, what cables did you run outside of your conduit? Right now I only have 3 coax cables for component video and a cat5 for IR. I figured I would run any "special" cables like HDMI through my conduit as needed, but I can't help feeling like I'm missing something by not running more cables.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I ran HDMI, component, composite, cat6, 50 ft IR expansion from Smarthome.com ($9.00 well spent if I need it) and a SVGA monitor extension cable (because I had it). I have 3" conduit if I forgot something.


Take a look at pccables.com.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's my first cut at the stage and proscenium. I'm still figuring out dimensions, colors and all that stuff. The top picture is a look from above. I want to have a curved stage, probably with one step. It's a pretty simple design. It shows a sub on both sides, but I'll probably will go with only one. I'll probably tweak it and add the dimensions over the next week or so.


All comments, suggestions and criticism welcome!



















Bud

*EDIT:* I adjusted the bottom drawing since it looked compressed and broke the one drawing into two.
*EDIT 2:* Gary's recommendation.


----------



## garykagan

Looks great - put a still from a movie on the screen!!!


I like it!


Gary


----------



## garykagan

Now we're talkin...


----------



## chinadog

I filled in the front stage carpet with black in the drawing since I'll probably go with the whole front stage carpet in black anyway. I'll probably do the soffit in black GOM and do a dark blue on the ceiling. Not sure I like the Milano blue at this point.


As far as colors go, I sort of like the medium/dark grey ( 298 ) GOM but would probably use that on the lower half of the walls. I'm also tossing around Blue Spruce ( 467 ), Ultramarine ( 470 ), and Bayberry ( 486 ). I could use something completely different (a la Clarence) since my surrounds will be ceiling mounted, that leaves the walls open to any type of fabric. Need to explore this option more. Here is the main fabric color page for Fabricmate. I think there is a better online source for viewing GOM samples, but can't find it now.


I cut and pasted fabric into the drawings for kicks. Here is the front wall with those colors mentioned above.

Ultramarine 470 
Blue Spruce 467 
Bayberry 486 
Medium Grey 298 


Any recommendations?


Bud


----------



## chrismd77

Hey Bud,


Just some info, my wall paint color matchs the 486 Bayberry perfectly. The GOM that you see on covering the first reflection panels is the BayBerry fabric. Look at picture 22, 24 and 34.

David home theater 


CD


----------



## jikkjack

Great work Bud.


I am on the west side of Cobb and currently working on my Theater. I will be following your progress and thread closely.


Jason


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrismd77* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Just some info, my wall paint color matchs the 486 Bayberry perfectly. The GOM that you see on covering the first reflection panels is the BayBerry fabric. Look at picture 22, 24 and 34.
> 
> David home theater
> 
> 
> CD



CD,


You painted the underneath of your soffits flat black as I recall? I didn't realize that was Bayberry. Looks nice. I like the black trim as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great work Bud.
> 
> 
> I am on the west side of Cobb and currently working on my Theater. I will be following your progress and thread closely.
> 
> 
> Jason



Jason,


Thanks and welcome to the forum. We're in Acworth, you're not far away. What stage are you at with your theater?


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


We are practically neighbors then.  Ok, here goes:


I am putting the dedicated theater in our basement.


1. Room is 28' L x 12' W X 8'6" H - framed with 2x6's and insulated. Ceiling is quiet floor system with hardwood floors above entire theater room (don't know if that would be any different from carpet).

2. All Electrical complete. Isolated 20 Amp circuit for projector, Isolated 20 Amp circuit for sconces, Isolated 20 Amp circuit for can lights, Isolated 20 Amp circuit for Receptacles.

3. All can lights installed.

4. All 12 gauge speaker wire run for 7.1

5. 2 Coax Belden 1505F cables run for 2 subs (Thanks EBR!!)

6. Columns Framed - I am putting light sconces on my columns not putting my di-polar surrounds in them(but may have if I found this forum earlier...).

7. Stage Built and over 1200 pounds of sand added.

8. Riser completed and floating on HVAC foam tape on top of concrete floor. Riser is not attached to any side walls.

9. Entire Basement HVAC 100% complete

10. Currently building a wall/bar on the back of the riser for universal HT controller, bar stools, and playstation 3(can't wait) wireless controllers

Plan to have 3 Berkline 088's front row, 3 Berkline 088's second row, then 3 nice bar stools staggered along bar behind riser for extra seats. This is due to unfortunately small room width and height :-( but I will take what I can get. ;-)


I have pictures but I have been so busy learning from all of the great people on this forum that I haven't had time to upload anything.


I am going to begin sheetroc next week as I have the entire week off for a little *ahem* vacation but really I am just going to work on the theater 24x7 all week long. Now that it is cold outside my R/C airplane addiction can hibernate and my Home Theater addiction can take over.


Thanks for the welcome.


Jason


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud, coming a long great. Still enjoying all the updates.


Are you tempted at all by a 2.35:1 aspect ratio CH setup? Just curious.


----------



## chinadog

Jason.


Cool beans, sounds like we're about the same, we flipped the riser/stage and drywall. Are you plan on doing the drywall yourself? Rent a lift. I have next week off as well, but the kids will be out as well, so I may get one day full time to work downstairs. If you need any help, let me know. Not until you start a thread and post some pictures though... just kidding.


If you have that R/C "Javier Lopez" disease, you must be familiar with the R/C airplace strip over off County Line Road? Behind Brookstone? I live about 10 mins from there up in Bentwater.


Bud


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I cut and pasted fabric into the drawings for kicks. Here is the front wall with those colors mentioned above.
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey, Bud, sorry long time no talk. I had a few distractions that got in the way for a while. The wife dragged me onto a cruise to Hawaii (Seriously, she paid for it and I didn't want to go, but I think I ended up having more fun than her!) and the subsequent work load when I got back kept me away from the basement.


On the plus side, I'm back at it, put my fabric up and have started trim.


As for manipulating that photo you posted, we'll see. I may have to save it for blackmail at a later date. 


Pertaining to the color question, have you ordered the actual samples? I've found the web images for most of those fabrics to be typically darker than they are in real life.


Anyway, keep on keeping on!


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


To be honest, I really haven't thought about it too much. I was thinking about going 1.78 or 1.85:1. I guess it wouldn't hurt to go 2:35 and have the black bars most of the time. Not sure at this point, something I'll need to figure out pretty soon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Chirps,


Any new pictures of your GOM install? I saw the red walls, but that was paint, correct?


Damn, you spend too much time in that basement. Not want to go on a cruise to Hawaii? Hmmm, drywall dust must be getting to you! Understand the work issue, I expect that the week after Turkey day since I'll be out next week.


I have order the GOM samples from Guilford. They're just too damn small. I also tried to re-order some and for some reason they never showed. I'd really like to get bigger samples. I'd also like to check out some carpets, even though I'm a ways from install. I'm think the carpet might inspire me and help me pick out the right colors for the walls.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Thanks Bud,


I know exactly where you are at. Very nice area. My only kids are me and the wife + 2 dogs.


I am about 3 minutes away from the HD at the intersection of Dallas and Barrett in a subdivision called Addies Pond. It is at the intersection of West Sandtown and Old Villa Rica Road.


I know of that flying field but have never been there. I mostly fly park flyers over at the battlefields with some friends.


I am going to do the drywall myself and plan on renting the drywall lift from HD. I hear that it is the only way to do a ceiling without killing yourself in the process. Thanks and I will definately be asking questions.


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Good luck with the drywall.


Been there once, used to live at Camden Pointe. Apparently, Javier putt up the money to have the strip paved. I guess he's big into R/C. Here are a couple of Google Maps of the airstrip, if you know how to get to Mars Hill, you actually use the one map to find it. The other map is as close as the map program will allow you to zoom to, but you can see how big the strip is. My parents looked at a subdivision not far from there and you could actually hear the planes on the weekend. Turns out they didn't buy there, but not for that reason.

http://images14.fotki.com/v249/photo...rstrip1-vi.jpg 
http://images8.fotki.com/v107/photos...rstrip2-vi.jpg 


Enjoy!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I've been thinking about how I can mount the Mits HC3000 if I go for it. Again, the problem is the offset. If it was mounted under the soffit, the image will be projected too low on the front wall. Since I have the bottom of the soffit open where the projector will go, I have some flexibility to alter it. Based on the specs, I think I'll need to raise the projector up about 6-8 inches from where it would be mounted underneath the soffit. I'm thinking of building a box to house the projector that would extend slightly if at all from the soffit. I have to be concerned about the trey how the two meet and accessibility to the projector. For access, I'm thinking I can build something hinged underneath the soffit and cover if with GOM like the rest of the soffit. The front of the projector box can mimic the angles of the cove trey and would also be covered in GOM. The front would be pretty much completely open for ventilation.


Here is a rough drawing. I made it two different colors to distinguish between the cover and box. The projector would be mounted upside down inside the soffit to a brace on the joists.


Comments? Quite crowd. You must be in amazement! Yeah, I know, I'm full of myself. Been told that before. Save your keystrokes.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hmmm, no bites on the design of the projector box. Maybe I didn't make it obvious what I was trying to do. Oh well. I'll make another attempt.


Been busy the last few days. I have one more coat of mud on the outside of the equipment closet, but it's basically done except for a door. I almost primed and painted the interior walls a flat black. Should I do the ceiling black as well? Here are a couple of shots of the equipment closet.


I left the outer wall open for a while in case I need to run more wires, but decided I'm good. I had an extra panel of green board left over from the bathroom, so I closed it up.











This is looking into the closet at the ceiling where the Middle Atlantic Slim 5 will reside.










I've also been busy in the bathroom (no, not like that). I installed my backerboard and drywalled the remaining walls. I did however drive a roofing nail through the cold water supply to the bathroom. Damn plumbers forgot to put one plate over the stud where the supply ran through. My last nail on the backerboard found the missing plate and cold water pipe! I had to shut the water off to the whole house since they did not install cut-offs for the bathroom. Luckily my neighbor is a builder, I called him and the plumbers where there in about two hours. It was any easy fix, the pipes are still exposed from behind the bathroom. I would have fixed it, but I haven't much experience with copper.


Here's a few shots of the bathroom.


















I have the rest of the week off, but the kids have been sick over the weekend with a stomach flu. Hopefully I'll be able to mud the ceilings this week and that pretty much wraps up the mud!!


Bud


----------



## garykagan

As for the projector box, you might want to mount it without a box at first, see if it really needs one. Not to mention, you may change you mind on the projector by then. It's always easy to build a box after it is installed.


GK


----------



## chinadog

Agreed. Actually, I wasn't going to build the projector box until (hopefully) Ben could get one for me to play with. From there I can figure out the height and the dimensions.


Thanks for the reply.


Bud


----------



## chirpie

Bleh. I couldn't tell you why but the bathroom is the one room I'm putting off the longest. (still need to put one more sheet of drywall up in there...)


Kudos to you where my will power is lacking.


----------



## klutzo

Silly question, but I'm contemplating doing my own Drywall for a future (see 1+ years away) HT.


What tools do you guys use?


- I have a sliding compound, a dremel, and a ok Coredless Screwdriver/drill... but that's about it.

- A lift is needed?

- Special Mud Trowel

- Hmm. I wonder what else?


----------



## chinadog

Klutzo,


Not as bad as it looks. Without the drill/screw gun and the stilts, probably less than a $100.00 in tools. If you're doing it by yourself, get a lift (rent or buy and sell later) or if you're doing a whole basement versus just a theater room, definately get a lift. If you're doing ceilings, get a lift.











Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chirpie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bleh. I couldn't tell you why but the bathroom is the one room I'm putting off the longest. (still need to put one more sheet of drywall up in there...)
> 
> 
> Kudos to you where my will power is lacking.



Well, it was the last big drywall item on my list, but it was there for a few reasons. First was backerboard. Its heavy and a pain, although I used the Hardi Backerboard versus Wunderboard (cement board), which made it easier to deal with since you score it and snap it like drywall and it goes on with roofing nails. Second, there is an IR receiver in the wall on the left that shares the bar area, so I wanted to make sure that was working before I closed it up. I got it to work with the help from Larry at Buffalo Electronics, but only for one receiver at the time and put it on the back burner so I may be cutting a hole in that nice wall again. No biggie though. Third, tile. I'm doing my own tile in the bath surround and floor. Always fun. Not high on my list right now, but not far off either. Then obviously getting the toilet and sink in.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

"Not pictured Advil" - - That's great. I need to copy that picture to my personal files at home. Depending on bonus, 2006 might be the time. Not sure if that pic will convince to try it myself or hire it out.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Your doing great work!! Everytime I read the updates on the progress your making and some of the stuff you've done, it makes me want to build another HT







I've been joking with the wife that we should sell the house and move to a new area of town (where she really likes the homes) just so I can build another home theater.... then I remember what it's like to move.










Actually I have yet to put in a bathroom in the basement. I've been putting it off, mostly because of the dust factor now that the HT and lounge is done. I got a new Framing Nailer acouple of months ago, and haven't broken it in yet, but that would be a good project to start with.


I'm not sure of the color scheme you have in your head, so I don't know if painting the ceiling all flat black is the way to go. Looking at your space, I would almost paint the soffit flat black and paint the trayed ceiling a deep royal blue so when the lighting is on it sort of glows like a night sky!! Just a suggestion!!


Keep the pictures coming!! Love following this thread!!


Sean


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


Excelent work on the bathroom....but where is the shower head??


LOL.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Not pictured Advil" - - That's great. I need to copy that picture to my personal files at home. Depending on bonus, 2006 might be the time. Not sure if that pic will convince to try it myself or hire it out.



I can relate. I'm hoping that I'll be getting some cash from Uncle Sam (somehow doubt it) and my bonus in March (if it exists) will supplement the addiction. Keep in mind, although it's taken some time, I've saved a least a few grand just doing the mud and drywall.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Thanks! One reason we (or shall I say I) selected this house was how the basement was laid out. I had a HT room in mind, although at the time I wasn't thinking projector. Not sure I'd want to tackle another basement job after this at least for a few years.


To control the dust I used some plastic to cover the doorway into our storage room. I've been using the "dust control" mud the last couple of buckets. Seems to work pretty well. The dust is less airborne, drops to the floor. Its more expensive, like 12.00 a buck for three gallon versus 10.00 for a five bucket of the regular stuff. Someone suggested using "Topping compound" for the top coat, apparently easier to work with, but not available at HD. I add plenty of water to the premixed stuff and it works out just fine.


The framing nailer was money well spent, considering I've used over 6000 nails. You'll love that tool.


Love the idea of the two different colors. I'd like to figure out how to transition from one to the other without having two separate sections/seams/lines. I'm not sure what I'd doing yet as far as the other colors are concerned. Definitely a black screen wall, but beyond that, no clue. I may take a drive up to Dalton. GA which is about 45 minutes away and claim to be the carpet capital of the world. Lots of carpet/rug stores. Apparently most manufacturing of carpets comes out of there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Excelent work on the bathroom....but where is the shower head??
> 
> 
> LOL.



Well, thanks Jason. There's a hole for it! Maybe I'll get to the tile work sometime in the next month or so. I still need to buy all that stuff.


I really wanted to put in a urinal, but got out voted. I may put one in my workshop though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's a shot of the closet I put in next to the bar. I was originally thinking that I would put a keg fridge in there (hence the outlet in the closet) and run a tube to the bar with a tap. Now I'm thinking about getting an under counter keg fridge. My father-in-law says "Wine closet" which is an option (as long as he stocks it, after all, the name is Bud, not Ernest or Julio Gallo).











Today I'll work on some mud on the ceilings or do the drywall under the soffit for the screen wall.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

How about a stock closet.


After completing my lounge/bar the one thing that I find my self needing is a place to put cases of pop / beer, extra bottles of booze, chips and nuts. The other thing I wish I had of planned for is an ice maker. If you have space for one under your counter, do it, or put one in the closet.


Just a thought!!


Sean


----------



## klutzo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Klutzo,
> 
> 
> Not as bad as it looks. Without the drill/screw gun and the stilts, probably less than a $100.00 in tools. If you're doing it by yourself, get a lift (rent or buy and sell later) or if you're doing a whole basement versus just a theater room, definately get a lift. If you're doing ceilings, get a lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



hmmm... interesting... I've heard sanding is a real bear. Would a random orbital help here?


----------



## miltimj

Wow! I've been away for a little while and man did you make some progress, Bud! A few of my comments:


- I love the look of a projector built into the soffit in the center rear of the theater. It gives it a very clean, finished look, and you can turn it into a hushbox. The fact that you'll need it offset a little lower and forward is not a big deal and actually a positive, IMO, since you can use some moulding in each vertical and horizontal corner (as you see fit), which will make it look even better.


- I know what you mean about the bathrooms.. did two full baths in the span of two months (as part of remodeling our entire house), and had 5 different tiling projects. I ended up using Dur-Rock which is pretty heavy, but since it's only 3'x5' sheets, it wasn't too bad. I wish I would have put larger tile on the floors, but the stuff we got was practically free.


- Sorry to hear about your rogue nail.. I was sick one day from work (no, really! I was), and built the whole bathtub supply riser, but it took me the entire day.. something like 20 fittings. But soldering is very similar to mudding in that you definitely get better with time, and that a bit of expert advice is great to point you in the right direction (it's easy to solder wrong).


- I'm not sure what I'd paint the walls and ceiling of your equipment closet. It'd be great to be black so you can't see behind the components at all the cables, etc. But when you have a light on in there, behind the components, a white wall will reflect more light so you can see better. Perhaps some rope lighting in the back corners so you have enough light when you want it, and paint the walls and ceiling black?


- Regarding your storage closet, I'm a huge fan of the built-in look, if it's something that will be useful for years to come. For example, in our upper-level bathroom, I built in a 48" medicine cabinet above the sink (2x6 wall), and my wife had the great idea of installing an electrical outlet on one side, inside the cabinet, so I can plug my electric shaver in, inside the cabinet. Anyway, my point is that the closet is an ideal situation for putting something built-in, and coming off the side to the bar, such as a refrigerator, etc. I agree with Sean that the bottom should be a bunch of shelves, and sturdy ones at that!


Great job thus far! I can't wait to start building mine in 2007...


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Good thoughts. Right off the bar is my mechanical room and workshop. I was thinking about possibly putting a full size fridge in there for overflow on cold stuff and ice. I could easily hook up the ice maker. In fact, I have an old fridge in the garage for overflow now and could use that one, although I don't think my wife wants to depart from it. Also, in my concession area, I plan on a wall of cabinets (lower at least) and plan on including a fridge and microwave there.


I'd like to have a counter height fridge AND a keg fridge in the bar area, but not sure I can do both unless I get rid of the dishwasher (possibility) or something else. Here are the initial plans I had for the bar using cabinets from HD. These are subject to change some. I plan on changing out the upper cabinets from the way it is now, I want to put in cabinets with glass doors versus bookcase type shelving.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Klutzo,


There are drywall sanders you can rent that are supposedly dust free. I'd go that route before using an orbital sander. I haven't used one personally, I've really tried to be careful to apply mud to ensure I don't have lumps, streaks, pits, etc to minimize sanding. In fact, I've really only sanded the final coats with some exception, so dust has not been too bad. Now kind in mind I'm comparing this experience with my last basement which I sanded a lot and with each coat and with the standard join compound, not the dust control stuff. It was real dusty that time.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Welcome back! Thanks for the comments. I hear you on the built-ins. We put a counter depth fridge in the kitchen for that reason. Looks built-in. A little smaller than the large fridges (I think its 25.5 cubic feet) but a cleaner look. A little more expensive. That's an option, although it's a narrow closet. I've seen some full height fridges that were narrow that I would possible get in there, but would have to put a door on it like a closet. I expect I'd have to vent it as well, which wouldn't be a problem.


On the projector box, I think I understand what you mean. I want to see how the angled board that's part of the trey comes into play. If the height of the box works out right, it may fit perfectly and blend into the whole cove. Not sure though. I do expect I'll have some sort of front molding on it.


I thought about the absence of white in there might make it too dark. I do have that light on the back wall though. With the position and the height of the rack I expect you won't really be able to see the ceiling in there while looking through the rack. I'll try and trim it out with as many blank/vent panels as required as well. I agree the walls should be black though. On another note though, the rack will be facing away from the HT room anyway, si it won't get too much visibility. Still some time to chew on it.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


I was going to do the Urinal too but they are very expensive. 500 bucks was the cheapest i found.


Jason


----------



## MaximAvs

I was going to put in a urinal too, but the wife said when she uses it her back gets wet...










pffft.... chicks!!










Sean


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I would think you could find urinals in abandoned buildings or junkyards. Unless you are going for the "hands free" version.


----------



## chinadog

Well, no luck on eBay. Need to check the flea markets!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Only had a few hours today, but got to do most of the soffit in the HT room. I had to shift the three cans some to accommodate the screen wall, then drywalled and did a coat of mud. The back of the HT room is still open, but getting there. I'll need to put up the front of my cove next. I really want to see how that turns out. A few pics :



















Bud


----------



## klutzo

Just curious... how are you going to deal with that window next to the screen?


----------



## chinadog

Covering them (there are two in the room). Stay tuned. I should be done with that in the next few days, will post some pictures when I start that piece of work.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I hope everyone has a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## chinadog

Had about two hours today, so I went ahead and put back the wood for the cove trey. Here is what it looks like installed.











And here it is with the rope light reinstalled and turned on:











I had originally planned on installing drywall over the plywood to give it a finished edge. I think I still plan on doing so. It'll be covered with GOM anyway, but this way it protects the GOM from snags on the wood. I could probably mud right over the plywood, but think it would be just as easy to throw up some drywall.


I plan on installing Linacoustic under the soffit up to the edge of the plywood. I left an inch overhand from the drywall on the plywood from the bottom of the drywall under the soffit.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is a quick shot of what I was talking about doing as far as the projector box. I still have about 2.5 sheets of drywall to put up here, but wanted to ensure that the Mits HC3000U would work out and get the position/dimensions correct. The whole soffit will be covered in Linacoustic and GOM as well obviously.











Bud


----------



## markalston

Bud,

I really like the slanted edge to your soffit. Defintately going to steal that one on my design. Are you going to fill the edge with insulation and cap it or leave it open? I doubt that there will be many sound problems in that cavity but better safe than sorry maybe. Also, without capping it off it looks like a difficult place to wipe clean with all the "cripple" studs there. Probably wouldn't need a wipe the dust out more often than once a year or less but still. Or if you insulated it and wrapped the gom all the way to the lengthwise stud then you could easily vacuum the top off gently.


Good work,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Thanks and welcome. The top part is still open at this point, although I plan on putting some insualtion in it before capping it off. I'll probably use 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch plywood to cap it off to give me a solid surface to staple the GOM onto once it's pulled over the edge. I've been using these inside corners for drywall with tape/metal and I think I'll use those to cap off the drywall installed on the plywood (will post some pictures). I did a drawing a while ago that's posted a few pages back. I'm pretty much sticking to that.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Very nice. I love the soffit too!


Happy Thanksgiving...


----------



## cinemascope

I have to agree on the soffit... I like it a lot.


I am glad to hear that you have chosen the channel for your rope lights. The clips create a wavy shadow line, and that sticks out like a sore thumb as a tell-tale sign that a weekender did the job. I am always glad to see DIYs accept feedback and advice and put forth the extra effort to produce a professional result.


I have spent the past hour or so reading this thread while trying to fight off a tryptophan coma from all of that turkey!!


Very sad story about your neighbor, I am glad your golf outing was a success.


I don't want to make this political, but is GA a concealed carry State??

Did that good samaritan get any grief from the police for shooting that criminal??


Again, for any radicals lurking, I will not reply to posts for or against gun control, so please do not post them.


I wish your neighbor the best of luck in regard to getting banks to adopt the ATM panic code idea, that is truly a great idea for an unfortunately common occurance.


I have a very good client who owns a chain of banks here in Northern IL, and I will ask them what this may entail. Maybe legislation is not required. I would think that if banks COULD implement this as a safety measure for their customers, then it wouldn't take much prodding... If Diebold and the actual ATM manufacturers need to create all new ATM machines, then it might be a harder battle...


Many alarm systems have a similar option that disarms as normal, but sends a silent panic to the police, but very few installers bother to implement it because they don't want to spend any more time programming than the very bare minimum to get the system operational.


----------



## chinadog

Rick,


Thanks for the compliments (and the response on the Dricore, btw). I'm all for feedback as with so many others, I've learned so much in the last year.


Shawn was questioned, but as far as I know he was let off. Apparently the carjacker shot first. My neighbor, the builder, is also part owner of a gun shop. Apparently you can carry if you're licensed. You can have a gun in your glove box since its considered to be part of your "house". I don't own a gun currently, so I'm not up on all the laws. Mike, the husband is doing well, he's obviously still pushing legislation. He is working with a senator/rep now that is trying to push a GPS law through. I'm curious as to your friends comments on the ATM code. I would assume it's a software thing, but don't know for sure. Connor, the son, was here yesterday. He seems to be doing well.


----------



## cinemascope

I am glad to hear that the family is doing alright as of right now, you are a good person to open your home to them. Kudos to your family for supporting your neighbors like this.


Out here, I barely know the newer neighbors, and don't talk to any of them except under rare circumstances. When I saw the outdoor theater parties, I thought that I could not even think of a neighborhood in my area that I know of where this type of thing would happen!!


Here in IL, we have some pretty strict gun transportation laws...


Aside from the total ban of handguns in Chicago city limits, where even having a handgun in your own home in the city limits is technically a felony.


I just got back from a plate of leftovers, with the same result...


Tryptophan = 2

Rick = 0


I should sleep like a baby tonight.


----------



## chinadog

Rick,


Our whole street is pretty tight. We're just lucky that the personalities mesh well. Our other neighborhood was less social. It's a hit or miss thing, I think.


You might find this interesting. The next town over is Kennesaw, GA. There is a law on the book that states the head of the household must own a gun. I don't think they enforce it, but it sure has put a damper on crime in the town. It's dubbed the Kennesaw Law .


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reaper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice. I love the soffit too!
> 
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving...



Thanks! Now go give your wife a break and help with the baby! Oh, and make sure that beauty doesn't end up on MaximAvs' wall!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jason and Dave,


Need to check out the Kohler urinal page. There are a few "cheaper" ones there.


Bud


----------



## Fallen Kell

Wow! That is all I can say. I am still in the dreaming stage for a home theater (you kinda have to own a home first before the theater part). I am sorry to hear about your neighbor as well. I hope things work out well with any laws that could help keep similar things from occuring in the future. I do believe that it would be a simple software update on most ATM's to have a second set of PIN's with a silent alert sent to local police. I think the biggest problem would be educating the people in which PIN is which to keep false alarms from occuring (current ATM's already connect to the banks via the internet/intranet/phone... the ATM itself wouldn't need to even make the alert, but this would probably be done where the database lookup occurs to match the PIN with the account on the card, and that system would simply call a triggered function which would be the alert). (Please note this is my theorizing how it could work, I do not know the specifics of the ATM machines, only going from how I believe they are designed).


Anyway, back to the home theater, I am really getting a good idea what is involved. At first I was thinking of having my home builder do the work, but after really thinking about it, most complex builders really REALLY HATE doing custom work and will charge an arm and a leg if they deviate from the plans for the house types that exist in the complex. I do think that a basement HT is probably the way to go, but I just need to find a place that has a decent height basement (min 9-10 feet) so I can put in sound proofing and do some soffits (I might be borrowing your angled look since I REALLY like it). Again, you have given me a lot of great ideas that I plan on using and I look forward to following your progress.


----------



## chinadog

Fallen,


IMO, you want someone who specializes. General contractors and builders usually have a dozen homes or so they're working at one time. They probably don't know the technology, constraints, techniques, acoustic requirements, etc. Not that I'm an expert. Even if they're a custom builder, I'm sure most don't specialize in media rooms and HT rooms. They can put something in, sure, but will it take into consideration all the information you've found here? Maybe, although unlikely. You're better off hiring a pro after you've done your research here or attempt to do it yourself with the help from these wonderful people.


BTW, go ahead and use anything you like that I've done. I wouldn't want it any other way.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just wanted to add a few more shots of the trey. The first picture is in a very dark room with the rope light turned all the way up. Keep in mind that there is no paint on the ceiling. Its mud and drywall only. The second shot is with the rope light dimmed at the lowest level. Big difference! Flash was turned off for both.



















Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Sweeeeet!


----------



## Darkking

Bud,


Just read through your entire thread.







Awesome work. Really like all the little background notes and pics. Looking forward to more updates. Now I'm itching to move out of my townhome and into a nice "regular" house with an unfinished basement to to do an HT.







Will be a while though. In the meantime I'll just continue watching and learning till it's my turn.










Dave


----------



## chinadog

Did some work today. I drywalled the trey over the plywood. I then used inside corners as outside corners on the top of the trey to give me nice rounded clean edges. This will allow me to pull the GOM over the edge to staple and not have a wavy drywall cut. I'll also do the bottom of the new drywall with outside edges. Here are a few pictures. In the first picture you can see the grey metal edge. Gives it a nice straight line.



















I also started working on covering the windows and will finish those tomorrow. Unfortunately, I had to cut a new piece of drywall for each window because of their size. I had two cans of black spray paint, so I used them on the cut sheets. The black side will face out. I pulled off the screens of the windows and cleaned them. I also cut three 2x4s to support each piece of drywall and will insulate between them. I have enough room for a piece of drywall/ the stud turned 90 degrees and the other piece of drywall. I'll have to cut a piece drywall to cover the studs on the inside of the room still. More pictures tomorrow.


Here are the panels. Not sure spray paint was the best route, but it was handy. Will check it tomorrow to see how it comes out and if I have to repaint, so be it.


















Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkking* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Just read through your entire thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome work. Really like all the little background notes and pics. Looking forward to more updates. Now I'm itching to move out of my townhome and into a nice "regular" house with an unfinished basement to to do an HT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be a while though. In the meantime I'll just continue watching and learning till it's my turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave



Thanks dude. Once you cross over though, there is no turning back!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I had a pretty productive week, although I thought I'd be done with mud at this stage. I am close, I think I'd need two more solid days though.


Many have asked about these damn windows.







I worked on covering the two windows in the HT room today. Here's a sequence of shots of what I did.


The first thing I did was take the screens off. They're a pain to get off from the outside. I may put them back on and rig them so I can get them off and on from the outside in case I need to clean the windows. These windows are on the side of the house and its nothing but woods there for at least and acre of property (ours). I then cleaned the inside of the windows real well, then inserted the drywall.


Here's one of the windows with drywall installed. They're both both the same size (30"x60"). I didn't have to repaint the drywall, the paint dried pretty evenly.

















After the outside drywall, I screwed in some studs on they're side to give me the depth I needed for the second sheet of drywall. I then insulated between them.

















I installed the inside layer of drywall. I used two pieces here because I had smaller sheets. I used a tapered seam in the middle and a butt joint all around the perimeter. I'm not too concerned about how it looks since it'll be covered with GOM. Also, before mudding, I took measurements of the windows (where they are on the wall) and wrote them in Sharpie right on the wall. I then took some pictures so I know exectly where the windows are once the GOM is up if I need it. Finally, here's a shot of what the window now looks like from the outside. It just looks like a dark room!

















Bud


----------



## r00ster

Bud, your soffits have turned out AWESOME!!! You have really progressed. I on the other hand have slowed some due to work, etc but have finally finished framing. I can only hope that my soffits turn out half as good as yours (since I "borrowed" your design.) Are you definitely going with the Mits HC3000U? I have not looked to closely at projectors yet as I still have the ability to change to PJ location very easily. After I finish the electrical rough in I will start to look harder.


Good job



Drew


----------



## chinadog

R00ster,


Thanks. I expect things will slow down some in the next few weeks for me as well, due to holiday commitments and other things, but should be able to pick up some time between Xmas and New Years since I have that week off.


Still have some work to do on the soffits, but they're close! The back soffit over the riser will be half-a-days worth of work. From what I understand and have read, the HC3000 is awesome, but restrictive as far as placement. If I can get it to work (and I'll definitely try), then I'll go with it. I'm waiting to see if Ben Harper can get me one for a few hours to play with. He does HT installs on the side and if he's got one for an install coming up, I'll be able to check it out. If I do the projector box regardless and the HC3000 doesn't work out, I can still go with the AE900 or Z4. I'm itching to get it make a decision and complete the construction.


Bud


----------



## Mickey Rules

Bud,


Great room man. Thanks for the updates and the pics.


Did you paint the drywall you inserted in the window? It looks like you painted it black. I wanted to ask because I am looking to cover two similar windows for my HT. One faces the street.


Thanks,


Rick


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> R00ster,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I expect things will slow down some in the next few weeks for me as well, due to holiday commitments and other things, but should be able to pick up some time between Xmas and New Years since I have that week off.
> 
> 
> Still have some work to do on the soffits, but they're close! The back soffit over the riser will be half-a-days worth of work. From what I understand and have read, the HC3000 is awesome, but restrictive as far as placement. If I can get it to work (and I'll definitely try), then I'll go with it. I'm waiting to see if Ben Harper can get me one for a few hours to play with. He does HT installs on the side and if he's got one for an install coming up, I'll be able to check it out. If I do the projector box regardless and the HC3000 doesn't work out, I can still go with the AE900 or Z4. I'm itching to get it make a decision and complete the construction.
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud, not sure if you have ever seen this web site: http://www.projectorcentral.com but the HC3000 IS a great projector and as you can see from the calculations you can place the HC3000 in various locations depending on screen size and the screen gain. Your theater and mine have similar dimensions so you want to have a projector that can throw an image at between 16 and 19 feet (based upon where your proposed PJ placement is). So to do that you need a screen that is between 96" and 125" diagonal, but you will need a screen that has 0.8 gain. You will probably want to stay away from any screen with a gain of 1.0 or more. Have you decided on a screen yet (I cannot remember?)


Drew


----------



## Snakeyez

Well, great thread, I am new to the site and just spent the last hour reading this thread. I am currently finishing my basement but it is moving really slowly. This thread should get me going. I really want to see what you are going to do with your stage, and what you are covering it with. keep it coming,



Craig,


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mickey Rules* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Great room man. Thanks for the updates and the pics.
> 
> 
> Did you paint the drywall you inserted in the window? It looks like you painted it black. I wanted to ask because I am looking to cover two similar windows for my HT. One faces the street.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Rick



Rick, thanks and welcome. Yes, two cans of black spray paint, but I'd probably roll them next time.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


Yes, been there. The concern for me really is the height of where its mounted. Under the soffit it would make the screen considerably low off the ground. I'd like it to be about 30 inches off the ground based on my calculations. I have not decided on a screen yet, leaning towards the Caradas though. More research required.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Snakeyez* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, great thread, I am new to the site and just spent the last hour reading this thread. I am currently finishing my basement but it is moving really slowly. This thread should get me going. I really want to see what you are going to do with your stage, and what you are covering it with. keep it coming,
> 
> 
> 
> Craig,



Craig, thanks and welcome.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


Just pulled up the HC3000 on ProjectorCentral again just to confirm something. The front wall is currently at 13 feet from the back soffit. If I built a false wall, I'll lose about 16 inches, which puts me at around 12 feet. To get 100 inches, that's about my minimal throw. I could alter my front screen wall design (make a shadow box) to give me the extra room back, but I want to wait and see what its like when/if I get my hands on one.











Bud


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks! Now go give your wife a break and help with the baby! Oh, and make sure that beauty doesn't end up on MaximAvs' wall!
> 
> 
> Bud




I heard that!!










Sean


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The soffit is currently at 13 feet from the back soffit.



I'm guessing you mean "The front wall/screen is currently at 13 feet from the back soffit"? That is indeed pretty short. A shadowbox seems like a good idea -- check out Larry's theater for an example if you haven't already...


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Correct, the room is 19 feet and the soffit above the riser is 6 feet from front to back. If If I build the projector in the soffit, then it's basicly 13 feet to the front wall. I have seen Larry's front wall and need to take another look.


Bud


----------



## herdfan

WOW! Great thread. I found it when TheFerret linked it from his Fat Bastards thread. I just finished putting in a partition wall in my basement as my future HT room is still being used by my daughter as a playroom.


Good job on the drywall, but if you want to make things a bit easier on you when you install the base trim, you will want to bust the mud on your corners out to around 16-18". Otherwise the mud sticks farther than the wall and wood trim can't stay tight up against the wall. You only need to do it up about 12", but it will make your trim work go a lot smoother.


Still, great job. Look forward to seeing it completed.










Also, my wife saw a thing in Herrington catalog for a floating screen to watch movies from your pool. For $10K.







Anyway, that gave us an idea and we had a movie night with a borrowed projector, a portable DVD player and a couple of neighbors. We watched from in and around the pool. We will definately do it again next summer.


----------



## chinadog

Hey herdfan, thanks for the response. I'll keep that in mind about the mud. I think I feathered it pretty well, but will definitely consider.


Actually, I revived the Fat Bastards thread because I sold my drywall lift to theFerret this fall and wanted to know how things were going with his drywall!


I get the Herrigton catalog, so I know exactly the screen you're referring to. I'm thinking about buying a whole second setup at some point for "Movie Nights". My son asked about when the next one was. Its just way too cold now. I figured I'd pick up a second projector on eBay next spring just for those special nights. I'm looking forward to next spring already!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Managed a few hours of this week and plan on a few today. I'm working on second coats on the ceiling in the game room and bar. Getting close now. I'm not sure how much time I'll have over the next few weekends, but expect I'll start trim and doors between XMAS/NYs. I guess I'll need to settle on doors for the HT room as well since I'll go with a stained door versus white to match the rest of the house.


I also bought a HSU VTF-2 MK 2 sub last night from Audiogon. Got a good deal on it, although they're on sale now at HSU. Should be shipped on Monday. Also, Ascend Acoustics are coming out with new 340s, so I'm trying to pick up the front channels from someone trying to upgrade from the old to the new. Should save me a few bucks. I've gotten a few PMs already and I think I have a set lined up already, but the new 340s won't come out until Jan/Feb so I'll have to wait until then. I'm just reconfirmed to myself that I'm a video guy and not an audio guy (Tim)!


Getting closer. I think I've decided to focus now more on the HT room once I get the doors and trim in. The bar and the flooring in the game room and bar can get "back-burnered".


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Five hours on stilts today working on ceilings. Second coat is now complete on the ceilings. One more coat to go and I move on! Can't wait!!


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just reconfirmed to myself that I'm a video guy and not an audio guy (Tim)!



Hehe.. me too. I know, however, that I'll end up spending a good deal more on audio since that's just the way it works, it seems (at least in my shopping/auditioning experience thus far).


Five hours on stilts! Wow.. I think I'll have to get some of those though. One question though, as I've never had to drywall more than a couple of sheets on the ceiling.. does it hurt your back and neck looking up all the time, or are you tall enough with the stilts that you can kind of look straight ahead? (head a few inches from the ceiling)


Keep up the great work!


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Not a problem with the neck and back. The stilts are adjustable to whatever height you need within the min/max range of the stilts of course. I figure I'm about 16 inches below the ceiling. My problem using the stilts is my knee. You tend not to walk quite normal with them and I've had a few knee surgeries, so it tends to act up a little when I use them.


Bud


----------



## wtshaw

I've been reading the AVS Forum for a couple of years now and this is one of the best construction threads I've read. Fantastic work, Bud. You theater and basement look awesome.


I'm in the Atlanta area (moved here about 8 months ago from St. Louis) and started on my basement a month or so ago. Sounds like my basement is about the same as yours. I'm finishing off about 1500 sq. feet -- theater, pool/game room, bath, bar, and scrapbooking room for the wife.


I'm about done with the framing (two more trey ceilings to do). Its a good thing I'm about done with the framing cuz I'm about burned out on it. Ready to move on to the electrical and plumbing.


----------



## chinadog

wtshaw,


Thanks! Where abouts in the ATL? Seems like there is more and more of us. Someone needs to organize a meet. It won't be me for a while anyway.


I'm trying to be as thorough as possible, taking pictures where its appropriate, documenting progress, answering questions and linking to information. I know there are a lot of other threads that do a similar and/or better job. My theater doesn't require all the sound proofing that many other theaters may, so that information is lacking here.


It hope that this thread helps others as much as the information that others have shared has helped me.


Welcome and good luck with your basement... and of course post your progress now that you're no longer a lurker!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

No soundproofing? So you're going to have headphones at every seat?


----------



## chinadog

Yes and 3D glasses!


----------



## chinadog

I've made a tough decision and decided to part with my baby, a 2004 Acura TL .







A tough decision for me for sure. Mint condition, 16K miles and new Michelin Pilots. She goes in the paper this Friday. If anyone is interested in the Atlanta area, PM me. I'll even consider throwing in the Escort for an AVSer!


I will miss her! More images and info at the link above.


----------



## Maggie Guy

Bud,

Keep on truckin!! I can relate to putting the other areas on hold until the HT is finished.

I may be ready to have some local folks over in a couple of weeks.

I still have some finishing touches to finish up, but overall I am pleased with the room.


----------



## chinadog

Maggie Guy,


Very nice job! I bet you're excited. Looks great. I've taken a quick look at your thread and it's really come together nicely. I'm so ready to get this done now, of course, if I can sell my baby I'll probably get my projector earlier than I figured...


Bud


----------



## herdfan

I got started on this thread in the middle and have been going back and catching up as I have time. I see you raided the Smarthome catalog.







Is your Omnistat hooked up to anything or is it serving as a standalone thermostat?


----------



## chinadog

Herdfan,


Yes, a small fortune spent there. I have the HAI Omnipro II and I can control the temps on each level via the control panels and my PC. I have the Omnipro tied into my LAN. I have to reinstall PC Access though, since it was on a different laptop that had a hard drive crash. I have the data files, but need to find the CD to install. I was actually looking last night for different compatible software, the PC access software is not the best.


Bud


----------



## herdfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, a small fortune spent there.......I was actually looking last night for different compatible software, the PC access software is not the best.



Same here. I jumped on board with the Insteon stuff and it has had a few probelms.


I have the Omnistats as well and am looking at this: http://www.homeseer.com/ for control. It has an Omnipro Plug-in and is also X-10 compatible. But the thing I like the most about it is the MainLobby Plug-in. It allows you to control your systems from a touch panel.


Here is a link to a guys who is running it: http://forums.accessha.com/showthread.php?t=469 He is also using the Omnistats.



A question on the Omnistats if you don't mind. I just redid a media room in my basement and installed an Omnistat. I ran some CAT5 to the location but haven't hooked it up yet. All I got in the Omnistat was a plug-in module with 4 wires running to it. Did you just wirenut it to your control wire and then back to the serial box? Thanks.


----------



## chinadog

herd,


The one I did in the basement was originally installed by professionals, I have since moved it a few times. The thermostat wire from the furnace is connected via screws inside the thermostat. The plug with the four wires is spliced and I used electrical tape. The others have the shrink tubing stuff on the splice. I can verify the actual wiring for you if it helps. I believe the four wires from the thermostat are used, but two are spliced together with one of the wires to the panel. I can pull it off and take a picture if need be.


I looked at Homeseer, but didn't realize that it supported the Omnipro. Thanks for the links.


Bud


----------



## Maggie Guy

Bud,

You have probably already made a decision as far as your projector is concerned, but if you would be interested in a very low hour NEC XG1351LC let me know. I was bit by the CRT bug a few years ago and was lucky enough to be able to get a G-90 for my current room.


----------



## chinadog

Maggie Guy,


Hey thanks for the offer! I don't know anything about CRTs, I assume this is one? Not sure a CRT would work in my setup (at this point). I did a quick check on projectorcentral and didn't see it listed. I think I've narrowed it down to the Mits HC3000, the Panny AE900 and the Sanyo Z4. Leaning towards the HC3000, but have not confirmed it'll work with my setup. The other two are a toss up at this point. These rebates are sure tempting.


Bud


----------



## Maggie Guy

Yep,

The NEC is a CRT projector which are big, fairly loud, and difficult to set up properly. But once all is said and done they put out a wonderful picture. I looked back in this thread and it looks like you are already setup and wired for a digital unit. The hottest digital unit out right now is the Sony Ruby, but they are just hitting the market and the price is pretty high.

I think around 9 grand. As far as the units that you are interested in, I really don't know anything about them, but I'm sure that there are plenty of Forum members that can steer you in the right direction. Keep up the good work!


----------



## chinadog

Maggie Guy,


Well, thanks for offer. I'll probably go with one of the three mentioned. Have you tried to sell it here in the AVS For Sale Marketplace?


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

chinadog,


The pj's you are interested in are some nice entry level units.

I have an AE-700. This is my first pj and I could not see spending big bucks on a pricy pj until 1080p becomes a bit more prevalent.

Anyway, what I wanted to point out is. Unless you are about three or four weeks from completion of your theater, I would not pull the trigger.

So much can happen in the course of a few months. Firm ware updates. More projectors released to further your choices.

I made the mistake in getting my pj to early and I was not even using it regularly when the AE-900 came out. I could have waited and had the latest model year.









The bottom line... I recommend you wait. Keep looking at all of your options. Make sure the dimensions of the projector will fit your space. Make sure the throw distance requirements will fit your space and keep telling your self there is plenty of time.









If I had it to do over again, that is what I would have done.










Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Yup, I completely understand and thanks for the advice. I was hoping to make a decision on a projector so I could actually complete my soffit design. From there, I would expect things to pick up some since I'd be itching to get the rest of the room done (and forget the other parts of the basement for some time). I didn't want to do something that I would regret and have to rip out later. If I had to guess, I'm probably two-three months out (hopefully tops) to complete. March is probable. I held off on the AE700 because of the rumors of the AE900 coming to CEDIA, then discovered the Sanyo, then Ben introduced the Mits HC3000 to me. So by waiting it paid off, but also cluttered the situation. All three of these machines are in my price range and would expect they may drop a little by the time I'm ready to buy in the February/March time frame.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> Yup, I completely understand and thanks for the advice. I was hoping to make a decision on a projector so I could actually complete my soffit design. From there, I would expect things to pick up some since I'd be itching to get the rest of the room done (and forget the other parts of the basement for some time). I didn't want to do something that I would regret and have to rip out later.
> 
> Bud





I can't remember what your situation is. If you have a hushbox or shelf set-up.

I have a hushbox. I made mine very large. My AE-700 is swimming in it because there is so much room. But... when the upgrade bug hits, I won't have a limitation on the size of my projector because I made the hushbox just big enough to squeeze in a Panasonic AE-???. The AE-??? line of pj's are a bit on the small side.

Another plus is that your projector will inevitably run much cooler in a larger enclosed space and probably extend the life of the bulb and pj.

I guess what I am trying to say is make your space for your projector big. Don't use the dimensions of the AE-900 to determine the size and space where in all likely hood several projectors will eventually reside.

Just hold out till the bitter end.









I would wait till you have about two or three weeks before you are finished, then order your unit.

If you happen to get shipped a bum unit, you will still have time to return it and have another for opening night.


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


No hushbox at this point, but leaning towards an opening in my soffit/cove to install the projector. Hence the design dilemma. Would be mostly open in the back and have a trap door of sorts to get to the back of the projector (see post 337 and post 367 for what I was thinking).


Don't worry, my wallet is going to be in my back pocket for a while!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I'm not quite following, Bud. You're planning on enclosing it, right? So that essentially is a hushbox. If you enclose it, you'll need some kind of venting, and you might as well put in some insulation to deaden the noise.. ?


As I was reading through the past few posts, I was thinking the same as Craig, actually; that you could build a big enough box (detachable underneath) for almost any modern digital projector and then fit whatever you want in there later.


----------



## wtshaw

Bud --


I'm up here in Buford. Took the day off of work today and spent a chunk of the day in the basement. Mostly just odds and ends....getting ready to begin on the electrical.


Bill


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Hard to explain I guess. The soffit it would reside in is pretty large. It's the width of the room (almost 12 feet) and about 6 feet deep. For the Mits, I need a few extra inches to raise the unit in order to get the screen height where I want it. In order to do that, the unit needs to be in the soffit (I think for aesthetics, I'd prefer this as well). This also means that the unit needs to project through the slanted front of the cove trey. Because the soffit is open still, I could open up the front of the cove where the the projector would project through and either ceiling mount the projector from within the soffit (assuming a Mits) or shelf mount the unit inside the soffit (either AE900 or Z4). Now I could enclose the unit completely by building a box around it. The box would again be in the soffit. Then I could insulate around it. I also can vent it. I actually ran a 4" flex duct and a temp switch that controls an inline fan at the end. If I decided to just build a shelf, the unit would disperse heat in the hugh soffit and would unlikely kick off the inline fan. I have some flexibility either way (box or shelf), but obviously depends on what projector. I could design for box case, I suppose. I think having the unit in the soffit will suffice from a noise perspective (for me), although another argument for having the projector in hand.


I agree the box should be big enough to accommodate different projectors. You also need to consider where it vents a well. The Mits vents from the front, so that why I was thinking about leaving it open in the front, which messes up the sound prevention.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


Gotcha. Actually, framing was fun. I enjoyed it. If I didn't have a framing nailer, I might say different though. Keep us posted on your progress and of course, post some pics!


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Hard to explain I guess. The soffit it would reside in is pretty large. It's the width of the room (almost 12 feet) and about 6 feet deep. For the Mits, I need a few extra inches to raise the unit in order to get the screen height where I want it. In order to do that, the unit needs to be in the soffit (I think for aesthetics, I'd prefer this as well). This also means that the unit needs to project through the slanted front of the cove trey. Because the soffit is open still, I could open up the front of the cove where the the projector would project through and either ceiling mount the projector from within the soffit (assuming a Mits) or shelf mount the unit inside the soffit (either AE900 or Z4). Now I could enclose the unit completely by building a box around it. The box would again be in the soffit. Then I could insulate around it. I also can vent it. I actually ran a 4" flex duct and a temp switch that controls an inline fan at the end. If I decided to just build a shelf, the unit would disperse heat in the hugh soffit and would unlikely kick off the inline fan. I have some flexibility either way (box or shelf), but obviously depends on what projector. I could design for box case, I suppose. I think having the unit in the soffit will suffice from a noise perspective (for me), although another argument for having the projector in hand.
> 
> 
> I agree the box should be big enough to accommodate different projectors. You also need to consider where it vents a well. The Mits vents from the front, so that why I was thinking about leaving it open in the front, which messes up the sound prevention.
> 
> 
> Bud



Actually I believe the AE-900 vents (exhaust) from the front left as well. At least that is the way it is on my AE-700. Perhaps that was one of the changes.

The bottom line is, the bigger you can make your space for your pj, the better off you will be. The projector will run cooler and you will have more upgrade options for the future. :


Craig


----------



## suffolk112000

OK... I was looking at your design and what you have done and it looks great! Very clean looking.









If you want to keep it that way, it would probably work, but it looks like you don't have to much room to play with when considering a projector upgrade in the future. I would be concerned that your choices would be restricted not from your pocket book, but from the space in your soffit.

At least think about this. Find out what the dimensions are of current higher end projectors like the Sharp 12K or the Ruby are. Would those projectors easily interchange in and out of your enclosure with plenty of breathing space for air circulation?

Another thing I would do is enclose the front of your soffit and shine the image through a glass window. Your pj is going to pump a lot of hot air into the viewing area and really test your HVAC system with several people in the room.

Please don't take my comments the wrong way. I am not trying critique your work. Just give you something else to consider.

















Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Actually, thanks for the response on the projector box. I was looking for some feedback on it.


I agree, I need to make it large enough to future proof it. There is quite a bit of room inside the soffit. I have a few concerns really with my design. I have to figured out where the projector will reside in the box. I have to make sure there are no obstructions. I need to be concerned with how far back in the box the projector will sit. This is dependent on the projector as well. If I have to ceiling mount the projector inside the soffit (again, Mits), then I have to be concerned about obstructions for the actual mount and how far forward I can put the mount/projector which could be impacted by some sort of obstruction. Also, if I shelf mount a Panny or Sanyo, I have more flexibility to slide the unit forward of backward on the shelf. Need to be somewhat concerned with venting.


There's some other things I thought of, but I got side tracked on with work and conference calls. Argh!


On the glass thing, I think it would depend on which direction it vents (not sure of the ramifications of it venting out front), but I have thought of that.


Here's a few mock ups for your comments (ignore the grey area in the second diagram):


















Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

I have my hushbox for my AE-700 (front exhaust) vented out my back wall into a small hallway adjacent to the back of my theater.

What I have is two 4 inch pvc pipes going into the hushbox from the back hall way.

One is intake and one exhaust.

I have a 4 inch fan on the exhaust pipe right now pulling the air out of the hushbox and if you put your hand over the intake pipe, you can feel the air pulling through.









Here is the fan I used.

Let me say, that it seems pretty noisy right now. Hopefully when I completely seal my HB, it will be much quieter.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=262-686 


My theater is still in progress and I still need to get my hushbox glass up to completely seal my HB. Then I will know its true cooling abilities.


If you future proof your soffit/hushbox, your projector will have plenty of room and that alone will help ensure proper cooling.


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Interesting. Do you have a picture of your setup? Is the fan in the box or at the end of your exhaust pipe (at the wall)? You can't see the duct (need to extend to the front of the soffit) or the temp switch that controls it in my picture. I hadn't thought of intake though. I'll have to chew on that one now.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Maybe you could attach a piece of plywood (or whatever) to a set of rails, attached to the ceiling, and have a board you could slide forward out of the soffit. You could then (now or in the future) mount to board, and slide it back into the soffit after the mounting was complete. I guess you'd lose a little height to accomodate the board+rails but might give you some flexibility/accessibility.


Not sure if this idea is advisable, necessary, helpful or obvious. But its fun to consider scenarios.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Dave,


Interesting as well. I was thinking of a hinged trap door so I could get up in the soffit/projector box and swap out projectors (either shelf mounted or ceiling mounted). As I understand it, you're really talking about a drawer that comes out of the front of the soffit. The projector is in the drawer, so do what you need and you slide it back in. I think its possible. The height of the drawer with support would extend below the bottom of the soffit, but that would be ok. It would be like the grey area in the above photo. I saw that because I'm trying to keep the top piece of the trey at the same height as the rest of the trey for the rope light to give an even glow. I'd hate to have to go above that, but I'd be willing to come down a few inches.The rest of the box inside the soffit would be stationary so I could mount the thermostat, outlet and tie into the ventilation.


Hmmm, interesting.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

On another note, I saw Dcostanza's (Don's) Cinema Paradiso Marquee yesterday in another thread . I believe I had seen it before, it blew me away (great job Don!)







. It sure got me thinking. I have some ideas and actually did a design yesterday, but I'm going to hold off posting until I work through details. I have a much smaller area to work with, but I think I have something that's doable that'll make a statement.







My father-in-law is coming down after the holidays, so we may end up prototyping when he's here.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Yeah basically a drawer or an upside-down drawer depending on what the needs are (for shelf mounting or ceiling mounting). I would assume that the ventellation would then be fixed (and a little overpowered?) and you'd have to think a bit about cabling (an extra foot or two of slack, and hope it doesn't get unruly when closed).


Not sure it helps with the obstructions, but would make future swap outs and or maintanence a little easier.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Definately an option for a shelf mount unit. I have plenty of slack in the cables to work with there. Good point though. Not sure what you mean by overpowered?


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> Interesting. Do you have a picture of your setup? Is the fan in the box or at the end of your exhaust pipe (at the wall)? You can't see the duct (need to extend to the front of the soffit) or the temp switch that controls it in my picture. I hadn't thought of intake though. I'll have to chew on that one now.
> 
> 
> Bud




I am at work right now.

I will try posting a picture later tonight if I have time.

Yes, the fan is at the end of the pipe outside of the hushbox. The pipes are flush with the outside wall. The fan is secured to the wall. Right now it looks crude. I am going to make a small marquee that says refreshments or something to cover up the fan, pipe and cables, as this is the area outside my theater where my future concession stand will reside.

I don't see where you would need an elaborate slide system. Just leave enough cable so you can pull it out when you need to remove the pj. I think what you have is nice. Just be sure you have enough space for upgrades and ventilation is all I was saying.










Craig


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've made a tough decision and decided to part with my baby, a 2004 Acura TL .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tough decision for me for sure. Mint condition, 16K miles and new Michelin Pilots. She goes in the paper this Friday. If anyone is interested in the Atlanta area, PM me. I'll even consider throwing in the Escort for an AVSer!
> 
> 
> I will miss her! More images and info at the link above.



We have a pending sale! Not an AVSer though...get to keep the radar detector!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suffolk112000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is the fan I used.
> 
> Let me say, that it seems pretty noisy right now. Hopefully when I completely seal my HB, it will be much quieter.
> http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=262-686



Not to hijack things, but I've been eyeing up this exact fan since it's line voltage, quite and 105 cfm. Did it come with a plug or just bare wires? HOw are you wiring it? I want to use 1-2 of these for my HT rack and also in my entertainment center in the family room.


----------



## chinadog

My Hsu VTF-2 sub arrived yesterday. I tested it quickly just to make sure it worked, so thats good to go. I also ordered my receiver, a Yamaha RX-V2600 (link no longer works) just this morning. I was originally going with the RXV2500, but as we all know, the longer you wait, the better things get. The RXV2600 also includes HDMI switching (2 in/1 out), de-Interlacing and up-Scaling to 1080i/720p (that also bypasses scaling when unnecessary). Looking forward to getting my hands on this puppy. I'll pick up the Ascends next month when the new 340 SEs come out.


EDIT: Since the Yamaha link no longer works, here is the replacement model, the RX-V2700. 


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud..


I've been looking at the same Yamaha RX-V2600 reciever!! You'll have to let us/me know how it is, and how the calibration works with the mic!!!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Cool. Will do. It may be February or so before I can tell you, but not a problem.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I called Ascend Acoustics yesterday and put my name on the waiting list for the Ascend CMT 340 SEs due out in mid January. I'm getting 340s across the front. I already have the Sonance surrounds tucked away in boxes in storage.

I also received my tracking number for the Yamaha RX-V2600. Should be here tomorrow.


I think my wife has finally figured out the HT is actually going to happen and that I wasn't just full of hot air.







I'll be picking up the Linacoustic between Xmas and NYs and should start installing doors and trim that week as well. I'm hoping the stage and riser will also be complete about then as well. Although I may tile the bathroom since my father-in-law can hook up the fixtures while he's in town.


Getting closer!


Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

Hey China









I like that the 2600 is XM ready, cool!

my carpet goes in tuesday (YES!







)


----------



## chinadog

King.


WOW! I didn't realize you were that far along. Have you posted any new pics? I'm about to cancel my XM account that I had on my Acura. Just sold it today, which is why I can afford to buy some more new toys for the theater! BTW, XM will give you a trial period where they don't charge you the full rate, you just need to call them and ask for it. Also, you still need to buy the XM Connect-and-Play to get the service. It's about 40-50 bucks.


Bud


----------



## Hardwood

Bud:

Just read through your entire thread. It's been great following your progress.

I don't know if it's any easier starting with a shell, like an unfinished basement or having to build the shell like I have to.


Anyway great work!


----------



## chinadog

Hey Hardwood. Thanks for the response. I'd rather start from scratch, visualize the final outcome and plan the whole thing, but thats me. Its been fun and a great learning experience, not to mention all the cool people I've met and have interacted with here.


Thanks and welcome to the "empty your wallet" club....


Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

Thanks and welcome to the "empty your wallet" club....



AND HOW!


----------



## chinadog

Today I put the last coat of mud on the ceilings. I have the last coat to do on a few corners, but thats about it. I should be able to wrap it up tomorrow.


Also, my Yamaha RX-V2600 came today. It powered up, but will have to wait a few weeks before the Ascends come in to get it real test run.


I need to start looking for a new DVD player next.


Bud


----------



## HTScotty

The new Samsung DVD-HD950 is pretty sweet. That's what I have planned.


----------



## SmX

Man Bud, What A great thread. What incredible progress you are making. That Drywall in the Game Room and the other Rooms is something I would not of Look forward to Doing, I hate Drywall work, it's so boring to me. I hung 85 Sheets of 5/8"s Dry Wall in my 15 x 20 Theater with the GG in between and I thought the Stack of Drywall was never going to end










Man, I love how you set up that Screen outside in the Yard for that Night. You know what my next project is now







I'm putting a Theater out in my CourtYard over my Pool.


Man keep up the great Work, it lloks like we may be Finishing both our theaters around the Same time.


Ruben


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need to start looking for a new DVD player next.
> 
> 
> Bud



I have the Pioneer DV-59avi and I Absolutely Love it.

I also have the Samsung HD-931 and I really don't care for it.


----------



## chinadog

Scotty and Ruben,


Thanks for the DVD player recommendations. I thought about a multiple changer, one that holds 100+ DVDs, for ease of use for the kids. I also know the BluRay and HDDVD are right around the corner as well. Although I enjoyed DVDA in the car, I sold the car Friday and don't expect to use the TT room much for music. The Yamaha does upscaling, so not sure if I should get and upscaling DVD player or not. I also want to add a HTPC sometime next year as well.


Oh Well, time to spend some time over in the DVD Forum today.


----------



## chinadog

Sandman,


Thanks for the reply. I actually think you're ahead of me, but not too much. You'll finish before me for sure. I'm spreading my time across a lot of things done there, but glad the mud thing is over (should be today at least). I'll get there. Now that some equipment has arrived, speakers are ordered, seats will be ordered soon, fabric samples coming, I'm getting an itch to wrap things up. It'll still be two months before its done.


Your theater looks amazing! Love the ceiling. I thought about that early on, but it got back burnered. Because I had restrictions for locations on sconces, I ended up going recessed and gave up on the fiber optic (at least for the whole ceiling). I'm considering doing that night sky murals guy a try, but need to look into it some more. Phase II, thats the ticket.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, need some opinions here. Please chime in.


I plan on doing carpet in the HT room, tile in the bathroom and laminate flooring in the rest of the basement. What I'm not sure what to do with is my concession area. I plan on putting a row of base cabinets in the concession area with a mini fridge. I'm leaning towards the laminate type flooring in there because of the fridge, but am afraid of acoustic issues with that room being off the HT room. I don't plan on a door at this point, I'd like to leave it open if at all possible. Do you think this will be an issue? I could put a throw rug in there. I don't plan on linacoustic/batting/GOM or anything in there, but if it makes sense...


Here's the area:










Let me know your thoughts.


Bud


----------



## herdfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> tile in the bathroom and laminate flooring in the rest of the basement. What I'm not sure what to do with is my concession area.



What type of laminate flooring? Do you mean something like a faux tile or wood that "floats" on the sub-floor?


----------



## chinadog

Sorry, yeah, a floating wood laminate floor. One of these snap together types. Not sure which at this point. I just started looking.


Bud


----------



## herdfan

Well, if you don't mind opinions, run away from that as fast as possible. My parents put one of those floating floors in their house, have since replaced it with real wood. And they bought top-of-the-line Armstrong.


Also, I was watching one the Sell Your House type shows and one of the appraisers mentioned that they would place a lower value per square on a house with a floating floor.


From the pictures I have seen, you have a very nice house and are building a nice HT, so you may want to reconsider putting something like a floating floor in the basement. Even if it means it takes a couple more months to pay for an all tile floor it will be worth it in the long run.


Just my $0.02.


----------



## chinadog

No problem at all when it comes to opinions.


What was the problem your parents had? I wouldn't do all tile, its just too hard. Maybe an engineering hardwood?


Anybody else have a bad experience with laminate floors? My parents had a laminate tile floor and took it up because it didn't stay flat (they're on a slab). The ended up putting down an engineered hardwood that was actually glued down.


Bud


----------



## herdfan

Several problems actually. One, it squeaked when it was walked on from day one. The installer said that it would go away as it wore in. It didn't. Second, don't drop anything even remotely heavy on it. My mom had a bag of groceries rip as she was coming in the house, and one of the cans hit a joint just right and chipped a big chunk out of it. Granted it was one of the bigger cans of beans or something, but only fell from maybe 3' tops.


And the final straw was when my daughter left the tap in the bathroom running and it overflowed and got the floor pretty wet. We caught it quickly, but the damage was done. Within a couple of days it had buckled. And if you have a sink in the concession area there is always that possibility.


So they gave up and went with tile.


I also noticed you are putting in a mini-fridge. Does that area have its own breaker? We have a mini-fridge in our bar and every time the compressor kicks on, the lights flicker. Sometime this winter I am going to run a dedicated outlet to it.


----------



## chinadog

Hey herd, thanks for the info. Interesting. No sink in the concession area, but will have a sink in the bar area. May be an argument for tile in that area.


The outlets are all on a different circuit than the HT equipment (dedicated) and the lights. If I had to put a separate circuit in for the fridge, not a problem, I could get to it from under the stairs, its not finished and I would still to easily be able to run the wiring back to the breaker.


Bud


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Hi Bud,


I know a lot of people, myself included, that have laminate floor and they all love it in fact my parents are installing more today as I write this.


Some words of caution though. The floor should be fairly level with no dips in it or the floating floor floats across this dip and when you walk on it you will feel it flex because of the large air gap underneath. This can be remedied with some self-leveling floor leveler.


Another thing to be cautious of is liquids on some of these floors. Laminate is like MDF and if you get liquid in the seams or underneath it will expand. That being said much of the newer stuff today is coated and said to be safe for use in wet areas.


If the floor you are covering is concrete you will need to put a vapour barrier down first.


One note about durability. I'm sorry to hear about herdfan's experience with laminate but one of the biggest benefits of using laminate is it's durability. The first time I looked into this stuff the salesman was hitting it with a hammer to show how tough this product is. I have found it to be very tough indeed, much more durable than real wood and it does not scratch. I have dropped my hammer on this flooring before without so much as a mark.


I should probably start my own construction thread as I think I am about the same amount through my room as you and SandmanX. I'm "lurking" both threads, I just don't know how you guys have time to post updates and work on the rooms and educate yourself as you progress. I imagine I would save some time by asking the AVS members their opinions instead of standing there staring at something trying to figure out how I will make it work!


Rob


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Oh, and I also meant to mention that I love following yours, SandmanX and others threads here on AVS and find the information valuable and inspiring. Keep up the great work!


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


As far as DVD players go, a unit by Oppo is all the rave. It received the highest rating from Secrets as the video is above all else.
Oppo Review here 


I read another review on Ultimate AV and the concur, but gave it a bit lower marks because of the remote.


I'm also looking at the Panny S77 and S97 because they also score well with video and play RAM discs.


----------



## chinadog

Rob,


Thanks for the reply and comments. The floor is concrete, so it would need the vapor barrier, for sure if I go that route.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


I was looking at the S97 and S77 and some point, need to go back and review. The Oppo sure does sound good, I wish it had HDMI instead of DVI. I know you can convert, but was surprised. It seems many of the manufacturers are going the HDMI route now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just got back from Home Depot and ordered 6 doors. Three for the game room and bathroom and three for the HT room. I got solid 6 panel pine doors for the HT room so I could stain them. I was going to go Safe n' Sound, but they come prefinished and I didn't want to worry about matching the finish. The others will be painted. I also had to get them with matching hinges as the rest of the house and without the casing (they couldn't make them with the casing I have for the rest of the house either). I'm now $900.00 lighter!


Oh, it'll be probably AFTER the holidays before I get them too!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I've done five separate tiling projects in my house and I didn't find them all that difficult. Talk to someone who's done it a few times (and you trust their experience/judgement) and you can figure it out from there (especially if you have them help you the first time).


They look great, was very cheap to do (raw materials are much cheaper than alternatives that I've seen, such as vinyl, carpet, fake hardwood, real hardwood, etc), and will last many (50+) years.


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Actually, I've done a few bathroom floors and a backsplash. I'm not convinced though that I want to do the whole gameroom though, maybe just the bar. Whats your opinion on the acoustic issues with having a hard floor versus carpet in the concession area?


Bud


----------



## SmX

I would Def do tile like a Granite or Marble something Real Rich Looking.

You only live once and Stone Lives forever. I also think you should put a Door on that theater.


Ruben


----------



## Luke_Y

Bud, my vote would be for ceramic tile or an engineered hardwood instead of the laminate. I doubt you would notice acoustic problems from the flooring in that adjoining room, but I am far from an acoustic expert. As far as the laminate flooring in the rest of the basement, I would consider an engineered hardwood if you are still open for suggestions on that, it's much more resistant to moisture. I considered engineered hardwood for our basement and was going to use Delta FL (a sheet of dimpled plastic- the stuff thats on DriCor or SubFloor). In the end we decided on carpet throughout.


Here is a nifty money saving trick. With engineered flooring, you can put down the Delta FL without the plywood and the engineered hardwood with its foam pad can be put right over it. The wood bridges the dimples. So for very little more than just a floating floor, you get the protection and comfort of Delta FL.


Just 2cents, BTW I follow your progress like many others here and think your project will turn out great. Cant wait to see the final results!


----------



## mike mcdaniel

*LOOKS GREAT!!!!!* NEIGHBOR!!! Hello I live close by in Cartersville. I sent you a email. I have the OPPO 971 if you want to try it out! Just give me a call! HT looks awesome! I just started helping a buddy on a 22'x28' ht in Calhoun. c-ya Mike


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Actually, I've done a few bathroom floors and a backsplash. I'm not convinced though that I want to do the whole gameroom though, maybe just the bar. Whats your opinion on the acoustic issues with having a hard floor versus carpet in the concession area?
> 
> 
> Bud



I wouldn't do the whole gameroom.. Carpet for that, as it's more comfortable, especially in a lower level. Tile for the bar area though, definitely. Possibly with a rug. I don't think it'll affect the sound much for the theater, but I'd also put in a door and not leave it open.. (but make it swing so you could have the possibility of it open and see in from the bar if you have a ton of people over).


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would Def do tile like a Granite or Marble something Real Rich Looking.
> 
> You only live once and Stone Lives forever. I also think you should put a Door on that theater.
> 
> 
> Ruben



Ruben,


Based on your thread and your comments, you must have deep pockets! I may put a door on, although I may try it without it and add it later. I've had that in mind all along.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Luke,


The engineered wood is still and option. If I go this route, its unlikely I would do it myself, since it requires sanding and staining. I would need to get some estimates. One of my neighbors used this type of flooring in his basement, he's going to give me the number of the guy that did his. This stuff is glued down, so not sure how you can put it on top of the Delta FL. I inquired (again) about Dricore at the Home Depot and they told me they no longer carry it. Maybe its just that store, not sure. I was considering it for the HT room only.


Bud


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ruben,
> 
> 
> Based on your thread and your comments, you must have deep pockets!



Not just deep pockets, but an amazing ability to find about every great deal there is on every item he procures.


----------



## Luke_Y




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Luke,
> 
> 
> The engineered wood is still and option. If I go this route, its unlikely I would do it myself, since it requires sanding and staining. I would need to get some estimates. One of my neighbors used this type of flooring in his basement, he's going to give me the number of the guy that did his. This stuff is glued down, so not sure how you can put it on top of the Delta FL. I inquired (again) about Dricore at the Home Depot and they told me they no longer carry it. Maybe its just that store, not sure. I was considering it for the HT room only.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, the engineered HW floors I was refereing to come pre-finished, and can be floated much like a laminate. All the major manufacturers supply engineered HW floors that can be finished on site, or come pre-finished. They have different lines that can be glued, stapled, or floated. The engineered HW floors are warranted for below grade installations. Where as many of the laminates are not. Check out the major manufacturer's web sites and explore the options before you decide.


----------



## Zambonikane

great thread! I have a 21 x 13 space in my basement earmarked for an ht and your thread is making me want to get started asap. As far as flooring goes, how about cork, bamboo, or just stained and etched concrete?


----------



## miltimj

Bud,


Dricore is still available at the Home Depot in my area. It'd be worth asking them about.. I'm definitely thinking about using it.


----------



## chinadog

Luke,


Got it. My neighbor had the glued and stained on site type. I need to take a ride up to Carpets of Dalton , which is one HUFE flooring store not too far from here. Just need to find the time.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Zambo,


Thanks. I haven't really considered these. I'm trying to get a certain look, although its hard to explain. The general contractor who built this house did stained and etched on his floor. Turned out wonderful and I really like it, but its not the look we're trying to achieve. Thanks for the post.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Good point. I'll have to check the other local stores.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

All (and Jerrod),


Thanks for the DVD player recommendations. Apparently Audioholics did a review on the Panasonic DVD-S97 which I just saw linked from the front page of AVS. I went through it since I had looked at this unit before (and Jerrod reminded me), but had back burnered due to some comments I saw in the DVD forum about firmware and a few issues with it. Apparently that's been resolved and overall had a great review.


I also remembered last night that my company has some sort of deal with Panasonic and that I could buy it discounted. I went and check out the Panasonic site that I have access through and sure enough, it was in stock, cheap (at least 60.00 cheaper than what I could find online) and included free shipping! So, I picked one of those up. I figured, if it doesn't suit my needs, it'll end up in the family room and replace my six year old Sony.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chirpie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not just deep pockets, but an amazing ability to find about every great deal there is on every item he procures.



Hey Chirpie,


Are you including yourself in that comment?










Bud


----------



## Mickey Rules

Bud,


I am painting the sheet rock black, (roller, per your advice) and reverse mounting on my two garage windows tonight.


Thanks for the advice. I will let you know how it turns out.


Rick


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Chirpie,
> 
> 
> Are you including yourself in that comment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL, I hadn't even given that any consideration when I made that comment. I guess I was only observing that Sandman's had a few items with prices I was in near disbelief over. (I.E., the price of that taping and mudding job, the chairs he got, and the projector he won.)


As for myself I'll leave that alone, since if I say I'm a great value it makes me sound egotistical or if I say I'm underpriced then it sounds like I'm whinning. Either way I loose so I'll elect to shut up instead. ^_^


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All (and Jerrod),
> 
> 
> Thanks for the DVD player recommendations. Apparently Audioholics did a review on the Panasonic DVD-S97 which I just saw linked from the front page of AVS. I went through it since I had looked at this unit before (and Jerrod reminded me), but had back burnered due to some comments I saw in the DVD forum about firmware and a few issues with it. Apparently that's been resolved and overall had a great review.
> 
> 
> I also remembered last night that my company has some sort of deal with Panasonic and that I could buy it discounted. I went and check out the Panansonic site that I have access through and sure enough, it was in stock, cheap (at least 60.00 cheaper than what I could find online) and included free shipping! So, I picked one of those up. I figured, if it doesn't suit my needs, it'll end up in the family room and replace my six year old Sony.
> 
> 
> Bud



I doubt you can go wrong with that. When I'm ready to buy mine, I might have to call in a favor to my "Bud"........


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


No problem, just send me your credit card number!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

I'll send you 2, that way you have a backup.


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also remembered last night that my company has some sort of deal with Panasonic...



Oh my, Bud... I can hear that AE900U calling your name! If I were you and I could get the same discount on that, it sure would be at the TOP of my list!!!


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


We also have some deal with Philips, XM Radio, Apple, Palm, Cingular, Sprint and a bunch of non-technical companies (GM, Ford, and a host of other companies). I'm not sure all these discounts are weighed equally though or are even worth it.


The AE900 needs another looksie though.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

For those of you considering the Yamaha RXV2600 (I know there are a few), I had heard that this receiver, like the 2500 run hot. Although I have mine, Its just isn't ready to be hooked up yet for me to discover this. Take a look at this thread, in particular, take a look at this post. Apparently there is an internal fan that you can change the settings for (from auto to continuous) which will help.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6767297 


Thought I'd pass that along.


Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

Hey China,

Don't know if you received my response to your PM but here is the link to some new photos

Of my finished neon and new carpet (HELL YEAH!)

The end of page 5 and page six are the new ones.

And there are only about ten, of course my damn camera went dead (nice!)

I just charged it a month ago









http://kingdome1964.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php


----------



## chinadog

I did see your PM, but haven't the chance to reply. I love the carpet! Very cool. Man, that flex neon is pricey! Sweet, but pricey!


Bud


----------



## kingdome1964

Yeah I know the price is hell!

what really sucks is when I first started looking at it about six months ago I got a quote for right around 500 and I decided to wait until I was a little closer before I ordered it.

And yeah, you guessed it, the SH&%T took a 50% jump, every where I looked it doubled (NICE!).

And that was if I could even find it in stock.

And the blue neon was about as scarce as the stupid X box 360, it took almost 3 months for it to show up, I just got it about 2 weeks ago!


And the carpet, yeah it is stunning, the pictures don't do it Justus.

And like everything else the price of that stuff makes me weep.......

(Oh you are going to love this) my wife just about went down and filed over this one!

I already bought carpet, months ago, I found a good deal on some carpet I liked so I bought it and stuck it in my garage.

so when I was over at the carpet store to set up an install I saw the star carpet (YEAH YOU KNOW WHATS COMING HERE) you know when you see something and that's it, it belongs in my theater, I HAD to buy it! So I was hammered for carpet twice! (NICE)

My most intelligent day on this earth so far, was the day I realized I was a Moran!


----------



## reaper

Bud,


You asked if I might be able to help you visualize some home theater color schemes for your room. I hacked up the Denges theater model some and put a quick soffit in. It obviously not suppoed to look exactly right. Then I added in some of the colors you mentioned. I believe this is the 150 on the walls and the 298 on the soffit. Does this look to be helpful to you? If so, I can try some of the other all colors so you can see them together. If not, let me know what I could do to make it more helpful to you...


reap


----------



## chinadog

Reaper, yes, definately helps. I'd like to see the different color variations and would like take medium gery (298) down along the sides of the screen. The area above and below the screen can be just black. I'm also thinking about the back wall in the 298, but not sure yet.


Bud


----------



## reaper

381:


----------



## reaper

402:


----------



## reaper

756:


----------



## reaper

757:


----------



## chinadog

Reaper,


Thanks. I tell ya though, the colors look different in real life. Definately helps though. I think I've narrowed it down to about four colors, now I need to make a decision. I'm hoping maybe when I go look at carpet one of the four will jump at me.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Yeah, there are a ton of variables, my lighting, your monitor, the way they took the source images, etc. I think it helps but I always tell people that they must make the final decision and I think it should be based on samples...


----------



## chinadog

Man, I can't believe how much trim costs! I started trimming out the windows in the gameroom. I've have to rip down 1x8s to trim out the inside of the windows before putting on the sill and casing. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


I'm right there with ya! I just went and got some chair rail for the theater and I nearly fell over when the total came up!!


The things you do for perfection!!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


That's an understatement!


Here is the trim in the gameroom. Since the basement is 2x6 construction, I had to rip down 1x8s to trim out the top and sides of the window before putting up the casing. I also had to get extra wide sills and rip them down to the right width. Hence, I had a lot of waste (money and wood).


























I need to figure out where to get stain grade trim for the HT room. I don't think HD carries stain grade crown and base molding I'm looking for. I'm hoping my doors will be deliver to HD this week so I can start that next.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I wanted to wish everyone a *Merry Xmas and Happy Holidays!* I hope Santa brings you all your home theater goodies!!!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Nice job on the window molding. I have not purchased my stain-grade material yet but I'm sure I will have sticker shock when I do.


Can't wait to see your final product


----------



## chinadog

Hey Steve.


Thanks. I may be able to order my molding through my neighbor the builder, although his wife is in the hospital expecting twins, so he's not around much!


Looking forward to following your progress as well.


Bud


----------



## danconio

Bud,


The theater and basement look fantastic. I finished reding the thread the last couple of days and it has inspired me to get started on my own theater. It became a storage area after we finished our remodel and that was 3 years ago.


I really like your soffit design and will definitely use a variation of that in my own theater. Keep up the great work and enjoy your Christmas and New Years.


----------



## chinadog

Danconio,


Well thank you, welcome and Happy Holidays to you. Glad you like the soffits, I do too.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

It's hard to believe the last year has gone by as fast as it has. It's been a year now since I've joined AVS. Time sure flies when you're having fun!


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud,


My brother owns a cabinet shop and has all his stain grade stuff cut for him at a shop in Cartersville. I forgot the name of it, but my brother says that typical maple is usually a dollar more per foot than the Home Depot paint grade. Of course they will run solid mahogony or cherry if you like.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Cool. Thanks. Do they sell to the public? I would assume so. When you get the chance, ask your brother what the name of the place is. Hey, can you get me a Carada 104 Inch Diagonal Criterion 1.78 to 1? PM me your address and I'll put a check in the mail. How long does that take?


Just got back from the Depot, turns out my doors won't be in until January 16th. I was hoping they'd be here this week. I have other stuff to keep me busy though (like a stage and riser).


Bud


----------



## herdfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but my brother says that typical maple is usually a dollar more per foot than the Home Depot paint grade.



Damn! How much are you all paying for trim? We have a custom wood outfit here that sells poplar stain grade trim for about $1.30 per foot.


----------



## chinadog

The casing in the photos is MDF, which is 1.09 a foot. The same casing in pine was 1.69 a foot. The 5 1/4 inch base molding I plan on using is also MDF and 1.09 a foot. Not sure on the crown. I don't think HD sells stain grade trim (maybe some pine). I'm already in like 400.00 for the windows between the sill, the 2x8s I had to rip down and the casing. Tomorrow I'll pick up the base molding for the gameroom. I'll have to either go after the stain grade from the place Ben was referring to or find it elsewhere, so not sure how much at this point yet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Even though I'm on vacation this week, I'm having a hard time getting quality time down in the basement. The kids are out this week and my wife is working about half time, so I'm spending a lot of time watching the kids. I managed to convince them to go out for dinner at a place next to HD and happen to mention that I need some lumber for the stage and riser. Hopefully I'll have a few hours here or there to get started this week.











Bud


----------



## mike mcdaniel

Here ya go as promised in the email!!!!







http://www.mouldingsunlimited.com/ 

mouldings unlimited


----------



## larryep

just by the last pic.without the wording i knew what is next on the list. the stage and risers. i can't wait.


are those 2x8?


i have been debating 2x8's or 2x10's.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike mcdaniel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here ya go as promised in the email!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mouldingsunlimited.com/
> 
> mouldings unlimited



Hey Mike, thanks, I appreciate it! Good stuff on their site.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just by the last pic.without the wording i knew what is next on the list. the stage and risers. i can't wait.
> 
> 
> are those 2x8?
> 
> 
> i have been debating 2x8's or 2x10's.



Larry,


You are correct, they're 2x8s. I'll do a 2x8 stage with a smaller rounded edge in the front. The riser will be 2x8s as well. Have you looked at the riser calculator? I'm backing into the riser height and will adjust the screen accordingly. I didn't want to go any higher because I didn't want a step. I think anything over 8 inches requires a step. I'm using the steps in the house as a guide. I'm It may force me to raise the screen a little higher though. Heck, those are the cheap seats anyway, so if it's not perfect, so be it!


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud..


Here's hoping you get some time to work on your space this week!!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Actually bought two rolls today. One for me and one for Jason (jikkjack). Packed the two kids in the truck and headed over to NB Handy in Duluth to get it. Took almost a hour each way, plus another half hour at Burger King to keep the kids at bay.











At least I've got it now. $185.00 plus tax (and gas). Not bad.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Since I watched the kids this morning and most of the afternoon, the wife didn't mind too much when I went back to Home Depot to pick up insulation and plywood for the riser. When I got back I had to run the electric and boxes for the front of the riser, started framing it out and filling it with two layers of R19. I topped it off with 3/4 plywood (glued and screwed). I don't think I'm putting another layer on. It is quite solid as is. It's now 8 inches and I don't want to go any higher. I plan on adding a spacer (like 1/2-3/4 inch) and 1/2 round to the front of that to give me a rounded overhang . Too tired to route tonight.


Framing on 30lb roofing felt, electric for outlet run, wires for shakers to front row, boxes installed:










Insulation (2 layers of r19):










Plywoodeded (see, I can invent words too). Step lights are at the perfect location:










Funny thing I'll share here. I ran the outlet in the front of the riser to the back of the outlet of the riser on the wall directly behind it. I had to actually fish through the drywall and insulation to run the wire. When I was doing it, it dawned on me that this was a Carlon adjustable box, so I wondered if I adjusted it ALL the way, would the box come out of the frame? Sure enough, I was able to pull the blue box right out of the wall, which made it a hell of a lot easier to fish the wire since the whole was so much bigger. I ran the wire through the back of the box then just screwed it right back in!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Getting fired up. I ordered these a few days ago from Best Buy.
_

Enemy of the State

Gladiator

Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World

Braveheart

War Of The Worlds
_

And I bought these from Tweakophyte in the For Sale section of AVS. Thanks Warren!
_

xXx (widescreen special edition)

Good Will Hunting (Collector's Series)

Spiderman 2 (widescreen special edition, 2-disc, with slipcover)

The Fast and the Furious Collectors Edition (BB PV)

Leon The Professional, uncut international version

ID4 Independence Day 5-star collection (Sealed, 2-disc)
_

Not bad. Like I said, getting fired up!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Keep the work and pic coming. I understand completely about packing up the kids and making the trip. Luckily, I have not had to do much of that -- YET










I really want to get some work done tomorrow or Friday on my HT. However, my wife has some honey-do's for me first. Plan to get those punched out quickly so I can get moving










BTW -- How many feet are on that role of Linacoustic RC? How big is the whole role - height and width? I need to be sure I can put that in the back of my SUV. I think I can get that here in Dallas also.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Whatever you need to do to keep moving forward!










It's 47.5 inches wide and 100 feet long (if you look real close, you can see it on the label). I'm thinking I'm going to use about 80 feet when all is said and done (Front wall completely, half walls sides/rear and soffits). I'm going to wrap some PVC drain pipes from the half bath thats over the HT room as well. Surprisingly, its pretty light. Will fit in an SUV, np, assuming you don't have a back seat or its removed, depending on the vehicle of course.


I just measured the roll, it's about 26-27 inches across.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud..
> 
> 
> Here's hoping you get some time to work on your space this week!!
> 
> 
> Sean



I'd say a linacoustic run and a riser was time well spent! I'm hoping to get the stage done over the next few days and finish up the back of the damn soffit. From there, I go back to tile the bathroom over the next few weekends and squeeze in some more trim while I wait forever for my doors to come in.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


Looking mighty nice! What lights are you using for the steps?


I spent a good bit of the day running water lines and re-routing my main house drain in the basement. I can surely relate to the kid situation. Work was going along just fine, then I heard my daughter screaming over the monitor, so work ended.... It must be really nice to see the riser and stage underway. The end is getting closer!


----------



## SmX

I checked in yesterday on my Homeboy Buds thread and Noticed he picked up Some woooood. So I figured I would check in today and then all the sudden...Boom! I saw the platform was finished. Now that was super fast Bud!


I figured it would be a few days before you got to it being that you had to watch the kids. Now your getting me nervous, I'm gonna have to move faster










But I must say, Its coming along Awesome!


I need to get some of those Step lights in 120v. (Single Gang Box Size) Any links to share with a Brother?










Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod and Sandman,


Thanks for the compliments. Here are the Incandescent step lights I bought. They're solid and pretty cheap for that matter. I'm using 25 Watt aquairum bulbs in them.

http://www.prolighting.com/noname.html 


I thought when I got them that they were huge, but they're not, just the right size.


Here are a few more that they sell:

http://www.prolighting.com/steplighting.html 


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

I got to see Bud's Theater and Basement last night when I went to pick up my roll of linacoustic and let me tell you it LOOKS AWESOME!!!!! The pictures are great but it was much better to see it in person to really get to look and ask questions about the construction. GREAT JOB BUD!!


I hope my theater and basement turn out just like yours.


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Thanks dude. Always nice talking to someone who appreciates and understand HT tech speak.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just ordered some MA rack shelves and accessories from Worthington. Just got an account setup. The stuff adds up quick. Hopefully I'm covered now from that standpoint, although I'm sure I'll be filling in the some of the rack with blanks/vent panels and I'll need to get some of those.


Bud


----------



## ScottS

Hi Bud,


I'm a neighbor of yours just to the north in the Raleigh area. I plan on starting my basement finishing project in the summer. Almost 1850 sf, so it's a big job.


Anyway, like you in Georgia, we don't get extremely cold weather here in Raleigh. But I'm a bit concerned about how to finish large expanses of the basement floor. I will probably put tile in some areas, but I'm not certain about the large living and HT areas. My concern is that in the winter time, carpet with pad won't sufficiently decouple the rooms from the 60 degree concrete floor. And as everyone with a basement, I'm always a bit concerned about water infiltration (especially when one of those pesky hurricanes come around).


How are you planning on handling the floors? Are you going to use a platon/dricore type of subfloor? Put carpet over that or maybe engineered wood?


I would appreciate any thoughts you have.


Regards,

Scott


----------



## chinadog

Hey Scott,


For the gameroom, I plan on an engineered hardwood or laminate. I plan on making a decision in the next few weeks when I've had time to do some research. I'll probably cover certain sections with area rugs anyway. The bathroom floor will be tiled. I had considered dricore throughout most of the basement at one time, but it would have cost me about an extra 2K, so I gave that idea up. I then thought about dricore just in the HT room, but it just doesn't get that cold in there. I'll probably just carpet and use the rubber pad in there. For 90% of the time you're in there, you're feet will be off the ground anyway, since you'll be sitting in a nice recliner. The room should be warm enough with all the equipment running.


I think Dricore would be the way to go if you want to spend the money on it. It adds less than an inch to the height and it seems easy to work with. Our Home Depot just stopped carrying it, but I hear others still do. Its also gone up in price some since I started looking at it. Keep in mid though that when you rough in your doors, to consider the extra inch of height if you go the dricore route. Hate to have to cut the doors down if you don't have to. Makes sense to plan ahead if you're starting from scratch.


Bud


We haven't had any issues at all with water at all. Its bone dry, thankfully, even with the remnants of hurricanes coming through.


----------



## ScottS

Thanks for the reply Bud.


I haven't had any water problems either, but there's always a first. I'd hate to put down $$$$ in carpet and pad to have it ruined in one storm. The first time you get water damage on the floors, the platon/dricore would have more than paid for itself. I'm a bit overly paranoid though since the hurricane cycle seems to be on a upswing.


I'm also weighing the pros/cons of engineered or laminate hardwood. I don't like the look of the cheap stuff. The v-grooves they put in them to hide the joints is very unattractive IMO. But to go with the better quality stuff costs as much as platon + subfloor + solid red oak + finishing (if I do it myself). I'd like to hear how the ecomonics work out for you. Perhaps you can find a better product/deal that makes it attractive in your situation.


I'm sure you'll post more as you make your decisions.


----------



## chinadog

A new Carada 104 Inch Diagonal Criterion 1.78 to 1 has been ordered (thanks Ben!) and should arrive Wednesday or Thursday of next week. I was going to go with a 100", but figure I could squeeze out just a couple more.


I plan on a few hours today working on the stage, then hopefully wrap up the back soffit before I get back to the grind on Tuesday.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I ordered the AE900, should be here next week. I wanted to make a decision so could wrap up the back soffit and I don't think I could make the Mits HC3000 work (and look) like the way I wanted it to with its offset. I'm now going to mount under the soffit and the AE900 gives me the flexibility to do so. I used the 200 rebate as incentive to get a mount and get my butt moving on finishing up the room.


I know, I know, don't put it up because construction will stop.


Bud


----------



## evvlwisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A new Carada 104 Inch Diagonal Criterion 1.78 to 1 has ben ordered (thanks Ben!)



Bud, what screen material are you going with? I also have a AE900U and I am leaning towards the BW screen material.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


If you don't mind me asking,.. what was your budget for doing your finshed space?! Are you still on budget?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *evvlwisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, what screen material are you going with? I also have a AE900U and I am leaning towards the BW screen material.



Classic Cinema White. I asked Ben Harper about it and he said I didn't need to go with the Brilliant White, wouldn't make too much or a difference with the AE900. I guess depends on your room conditions as well. Now that I have the windows covered, I have control over the light. I'll let you know how I make out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> If you don't mind me asking,.. what was your budget for doing your finished space?! Are you still on budget?



Sean,


I assume you're referring to the HT room only? The construction materials sort of blend together. Budget on left (actual on right).


Projector - 2000 (AE900U - 1800, mount 199.00)

Speakers - 2000 (Ascends - 900, Sonance S622TRs - 800)

Sub - 500 (Used Hsu VTF II MKII - 325.00)

Receiver - 1000 (Yamaha RXV2600 - 900)

IR Stuff - 250 (Buffalo Electronics - 200)

Screen - 500 (Carada 104 inch - 650ish)

Lighting - 500 (6" cans, 4" cans w/ trim, step and rope lights - (450ish)

Dimmers - 300 (X10 Dimmers, controller and IR534 - 500ish)

Remote - 300 (not purchased yet)

Rack and shelves - 500 (MA Slim 5-43 - 250, shelves - 400)

Cables and wire - 300 (RG59, RG6, CAT6, CAT5 - 450)

Lumber for stage/riser/screen wall - 200 (2x8, 2x4s, Plywood - 500)

GOM and Linacoustic- 1000 (not purchased yet)

Trim - 500 (not purchased yet)

Doors - 400 (3 solid pine 6 panel doors - 600ish)

Carpet - 1000 (not purchased yet)

Seating - 2500 (not purchased yet)

Misc - 1000 (insulation, 300)

Beer - infinity (ongoing)


Budget 14750 (Actual to date approx - 9225)

(Yet to purchase - 6000)

*Cost at completion - 15225*


Now that was off the top of my head. I did not think through the costs for lighting/dimmers and cables. I also underestimated a few things. Overall, that's about right. I still have other things like flooring in the bar/gameroom, cabinets in the concession area, more trim in the gameroom, counter tops, tile, vanity, toilet, etc. I'm looking at propbably at 10K right there.


Bud


----------



## beatboy77

Bud,


Are you having each phase of this project inspected by your city? I was just wondering because I have never heard you mention an inspection or inspector.


~Josh


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Yeah, I was pretty much talking about the theater space. The only reason I asked was your last few post you've made some pretty big purchases and with all the construction you've done so far, it seemed like you're pouring a ton of money into your space, and yet doing alot of the work yourself.


Don't get me wrong, I think your space is going to be fan-fricken-tastic!!! I wish I could be there to lend a hand in some way!!


Sean


----------



## MaximAvs

Beatboy...


You didn't just use the "I" word did ya?!!!










Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


True, been on a spending spree lately, but I'm at the point where I needed to either spread the cash over the whole basement (flooring, cabinets) or get the equipment required to keep the HT room moving. I guess you figured out which one I'd rather spend the cash on. Having the equipment will make me move quicker, trust me. The projector held up the soffit, the lack of a screen held up the screen wall. Not having the speakers held up the proscenium building. So it's all correlated (in my mind) and now I can get the items in the critical path done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Josh,


I'm going to ignore that question.... for now.


Bud


----------



## beatboy77

Is there an unwritten rule that we should not have our projects inspected? lol I just had my plumbing inspection and passed. Also had the framing inspection and got a partial pass. He wants me to add some more insulation for a fire stop.


~Josh


----------



## chinadog

Every time AVSers get to the stage part, they complain about the sand. Carrying sand. Lots of sand. I'm not sure what the big deal really is. You get yourself a hand truck and you throw down a piece of plywood as a ramp and just move it! Seriously, I know its a pain. I'm lucky I have a short downhill walk to the back door.










I bought 24 bags of playsand. It was dry. Really dry. It was outside under the overhang at Home Depot, wrapped in plastic. I bought 24 bags, but ended up loading them myself as the guys in the orange aprons walked by. Same thing the other day when I'm loading 3/4 plywood. Guys are just walking by. Anyway, I ended up with 26 bags of sand. Go figure.







I ended up with 2 and 1/2 extra bags after I was all done!










Built the stage 26 inches deep (rectangular part) and made out of 2x8s. I had plenty of short boards left over form the riser. Used 30 lb roofing paper and caulked the insides where it meets the roofing paper. I used just over two bags of sand per opening.


























The curved portion is eight feet wide, about 12.5 inches at the widest part. I made it out of 2x4s with a piece of siding I ripped down to the width of a 2x4 for the curved part.


















Kids just love sand. My son wanted to help as soon as I said "Sand".










Here is the stage 95% complete. Top is 3/4 plywood glued and screwed. I still have to add the 1.5 inch half round to give me a lip for the carpet.










Bud


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


Have been following your progress. Room is going to be awesome!!! BTW, didn't we all have a fantastic "blue tape screen" at some point in our construction? I know I did. Had about 12 different sizes and placements too!


PS I pulled a permit on my HT/basement redo. No problems, I just went back in and uncovered/did all the illegal stuff after final inspection. Like putting the solid core door on the HT with no egress window HAHA!!


----------



## miltimj

Hey Bud,


I'm curious why you didn't go the typical route with lining the inside of the stage with plastic and putting the sand on top, instead of the presumably more time consuming (and possibly not as air-tight?) caulking.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Great progress Bud. Happy new years.


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Lazy! Not sure what the theory is about being air tight and the purpose of using plastic with these things. I didn't have the plastic on hand and the only thing I was concerned with was containing the sand in the stage. I'm not worried about moisture, the roofing paper should take care of that. Is there a real good reason for the plastic besides keeping the sand in the cavity? If there is, oh well. I used a boat load of construction adhesive on the top, I'm not sure if people put plastic on the top before the plywood. I consider that to be the same concept as the bottom when it comes to sealing.


Didn't take long to caulk at all and frankly, I didn't wait until it was completely dry either. I don't think there will be any sand coming out of those joints.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great progress Bud. Happy new years.



Hey Dave,


Thanks! Happy New Years to you as well!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Have been following your progress. Room is going to be awesome!!!



Thanks man!


Bud


----------



## richh

Bud,


Hard to tell from the pics, but how much of a gap did you leave between the stage and the walls?


As always, it's so inspiring watching your progress. Do you keep track of the time you spent working down there? From the progress you make it seems that either you are able to spend a lot of time working, or perhaps a master carpenter in a former life







.


----------



## R-U-Q-R-U

Bud


Awesome amount of work for a DYI project. I envy your energy and dedication to this project. When do anticipate completing it?


Also, if not an impolite question, at the end of the project could you post a labor and materials cost breakdown and what you think you saved by doing it yourself?


Thanks.


----------



## Darkking

Hey richh,


From what I gather, Bud spends every waking moment he can without upsetting the wife and kids. Even with the kids he bribed them once with Burger King in order to spend some time on theatre business










Bud,


Keep up the great work! Very inspirational. Happy New Year's. 06 will be great for you with that new theatre!!


----------



## chinadog

Hey Richh,


Thanks. I don't keep track of my time, but its an interesting point. I have taken a few days off here or there (from work) to speed things up. When mudding, I would take an hour to an hour and half do do some sanding, mud, whatever in the morning when the kids left for school. I work out of the house, so by 7:30 AM I can usually get down there for a little time to do the little things. I haven't do it lately. I sometimes would go down during lunch. On the weekends, I try to get whatever blocks of time in where I can. It can be tough sometimes though, especially during this time of the year.


Not sure about my former life, but I do enjoy the building/construction process and seeing the end results. Oh and about 1/8+ inch gap around the sides.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

R-U-Q-R-U,


Thanks. I'm an amateur compared to many of the folks here. My father-in-law is very handy and I bounce a lot of questions off him. He always said that this wasn't rocket science and that having the right tools is half the battle. You need to understand the correct techniques/code and best practices. Of course, you need to know your limitations as well. I only do minor electrical stuff. I won't mess with breakers and the box.


Actually, I'm pretty goal oriented and stubborn. Once I make up my mind and want something or want to do something, I get tunnelvision and am pretty persistent. Just the way I'm wired, I suppose.


I can only guesstimate some of the cost savings since I never had bids for a lot of it, just the drywall, really, but I have no problem doing that. Oh yeah, on the timeframe, It'll be end of February or beginning of March timeframe. The wife will have a typical year end busy period the first few weeks in January, which will slow me down some in the next few weeks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkking* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey richh,
> 
> 
> From what I gather, Bud spends every waking moment he can without upsetting the wife and kids. Even with the kids he bribed them once with Burger King in order to spend some time on theatre business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Keep up the great work! Very inspirational. Happy New Year's. 06 will be great for you with that new theatre!!



Thanks and HNY to you too! I actually do cross that line now and then, I can tell. My wife has been pretty patient with the whole thing. Actually, she rarely comes downstairs to see the progress, I have to coax her down there or pretend to need her opinion on something! She's got her hands full with work and kids. I think she'll be happy the first time she sits in the Berks though...


Bud


----------



## herdfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and that having the right tools is half the battle.



Of course, any reason to buy tools is a good thing.


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Lazy! Not sure what the theory is about being air tight and the purpose of using plastic with these things. I didn't have the plastic on hand and the only thing I was concerned with was containing the sand in the stage. I'm not worried about moisture, the roofing paper should take care of that. Is there a real good reason for the plastic besides keeping the sand in the cavity? If there is, oh well. I used a boat load of construction adhesive on the top, I'm not sure if people put plastic on the top before the plywood. I consider that to be the same concept as the bottom when it comes to sealing.
> 
> 
> Didn't take long to caulk at all and frankly, I didn't wait until it was completely dry either. I don't think there will be any sand coming out of those joints.
> 
> 
> Bud



As far as I know, the only reason is to hold the sand in there.. haven't heard of people putting plastic over the top, but I suppose it's possible.. more often just roofing felt (then another layer of felt between layers of plywood). I would just imagine that all it takes is enough vibration of the stage and some time to have the stage slightly vibrate up and down and have sand leak out as well. Probably not, but with plastic there's no chance of that happening, and it also helps "hold the stage down" by having the plastic go over the top of the joists. I don't think there's any reason to have the sand air tight (or even anywhere close to it). The only reason I mention it is because it seemed like quite a bit more work to caulk than just lay plastic down, but apparently not!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was pretty much talking about the theater space. The only reason I asked was your last few post you've made some pretty big purchases and with all the construction you've done so far, it seemed like you're pouring a ton of money into your space, and yet doing alot of the work yourself.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I think your space is going to be fan-fricken-tastic!!! I wish I could be there to lend a hand in some way!!
> 
> 
> Sean



Sean,


BTW, With the money saved, you can make(justify?) those big purchases. The trade-off is that it takes a lot longer. I can live with that. Also, airfare to Atlanta is pretty reasonable!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Nah, it took maybe 5-10 minutes. I cut the caulK end pretty large and ran through it pretty quick, used a scrap piece of shim to force it in the joints. Its not like a pretty exposed caulk along a tub or anything. I think I used about 5 tubs of caulk total, stuff I had laying around. Keep in mind too that the carpet will be on top and holding it back as well. Even through they'll be a few joints there with the carpet, unlikely I'll ever see a grain of sand.If so, I'll plug it with more caulk!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *herdfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course, any reason to buy tools is a good thing.



I hear you there!










Bud


----------



## larryep

More tools improves craftmanship. there is also a fine line of budgeting your tools. for example the mudd boxes are very expensive and i am not willing to spend that much money when an assortment of mud knives will do.


work on my current basement has been done better than the basement i did in 1995. because of more tools.


one thing i didn't have in 95 are grip rights. these tools are great for the extra hand. It seems i use them all the time for different parameters of the job.


----------



## chinadog

Happy New Year everyone! I hope you all have a great 2006!


Bud


----------



## klutzo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As far as I know, the only reason is to hold the sand in there.. haven't heard of people putting plastic over the top, but I suppose it's possible.. more often just roofing felt (then another layer of felt between layers of plywood). I would just imagine that all it takes is enough vibration of the stage and some time to have the stage slightly vibrate up and down and have sand leak out as well. Probably not, but with plastic there's no chance of that happening, and it also helps "hold the stage down" by having the plastic go over the top of the joists. I don't think there's any reason to have the sand air tight (or even anywhere close to it). The only reason I mention it is because it seemed like quite a bit more work to caulk than just lay plastic down, but apparently not!



Peronally I'm not 100% sold on the sand thing for the complete stage... however I definitely am no expert, but listen to common sense instead. I wonder if putting sand in heavy plastic bags, sealing them up, then lining them into the stage cavities would be an option as well.


AH yes.. and Happy New Year to all!


----------



## chinadog

I know a lot of us blindly follow procedures like herds of cattle since we don't know any better and that's how others have done it based on professional designs. I do it too. Maybe its "Home Theater Pressure", not sure. I was thinking the sand was going to be such a hassle based on other threads and comments from others. I was thinking doing it partially with insulation at one point like others have. After getting the sand (not a big deal IMO because I was able to hand truck 4-5 bags at a time around the house), caulking and filling the stage, it was really not a big deal to do and would do it again if I built another theater. I'd rather be safe than sorry if there were sound transfer or resonant issues with the stage. As far as plastic goes, it will help contain the sand in the cavity. The last thing you want is the sand to do is leak out of the bottom of the stage if it were disturbed, you'd never be able to get it back in place without having to rip the whole thing down. Maybe its there for later when you decide to remove the stage to prevent a mess? Who knows. I'm not the expert, just one of the herd.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Stage looks great. Wish I had room for a stage in my design. Oh well, one more thing I "don't" have to build










BTW -- I'm with you on the kid juggling. My wife has been very helpful in this area this week since I'm on vacation. However, most of my work is done between 8:30pm and 10:30pm after the kids go to bed. I guess since I have the HT bug, it does not bother me much. My friends are supportive but think I'm a bit crazy putting in all the hours. I look at it this way -- it's fun, I'm learing a bunch and I save a few bucks doing it myself


----------



## larryep

Bud,

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Yes it is fun to build.


Larry


----------



## jandawil

Hey Bud,


Theater seems to be coming along great. You are a few steps ahead of me in construction so it's nice to check your progress and see what I'm up against. How deep is your stage?? It seems shallower than the one I am planning on which is 4'. I would like to go shallower just so it will be cheaper and easier to build, but can't seem to find a way to do so. What besides your speakers are going behind it? I am putting my LCR and SW behind mine as well as my equipment rack which is why I need the depth. Look forward to seeing your progress.


----------



## rfisk

Hey Bud, really looking great!


Reminds me that I should be working in the basement this winter... naaahhh


Randy


ps: I feel your pain on trim prices. Sheeze


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sean,
> 
> Also, airfare to Atlanta is pretty reasonable!
> 
> 
> Bud



You know I've never been to 'Hotlanta', and helping to build a home theater sounds like a good reason to go!!

















Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


I like how you volunteer after drywall and mud! You'd love it here. Lots of Double Ds here as well ....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few updated pictures. I haven't had a lot of time to do much, something has come up recently. Anyway, I did finish the under portion of the back soffit finally. The projector came yesterday and I mounted it to verify I didn't have any VB, dead pixels, stuck mirrors, zits or pimples. By going with the AE900 and its mounting flexibility, I was able to easily mount the unit under the soffit and adjust it accordingly. Pretty amazing in that way. This allowed me to abandon the "in the soffit" projector box design.


When I bought the AE900, I bought a Peerless PRS-UNV-B: Universal Ceiling Mount- Black from Visual Apex. I probably should have done some research first, but I was giddy. Anyway, even though I can probably adjust the mount maybe another 3/4 of an inch closer to the ceiling, it's still not exactly where I want it. Solution? Sell the mount and get another. I bought the Chief RPA-225 from Bright and Sleek, although looks like the price went up.


Anyway, he's a shot from the stage area:










There are a few things I wanted to point out here. I took down some of the original framing and boxed out an area were I deck screwed two 3/4 pieces of plywood to the framing. I drywalled around that. This serves a couple of purposes. One, it gives a very rigid area for mounting the projector. Two, it allows me to get into the soffit. There is a clean out drain for a sink for a half bath above the soffit. IF I even need to, I can put down the projector and pull off the plywood to get in there. Granted I will have to remove some fabric to do so since the whole area under the soffit will be Linacoustic and GOM. Last, but not least, two 3/4 pieces of plywood gives me 1.5 inches, which equates to 1/2 drywall plus 1" of Lincoustic. Good for covering with fabric.


Here's a closer shot of the AE900 mounted:










Now I still intend to build a box to hide the projector, thermostats and wiring. Not to keep it quiet. I ran it under low lamp conditions and its extremely quiet. Can't really hear it while sitting under it. I just prefer a cleaner look. I'll leave it open in the front for venting and will use some sort of vent cover for the back for intake. I'll make sure it has hinged doors to get to the controls and the cables as well. I have some ideas, but will probably just build a prototype. I may even cover with GOM to match.


Another shot of the AE900 mounted:










At the moment, what you see if pretty "fugly", IMO, but I intend to clean it up nicely. Stay tuned.


Next steps, cover the wood cove with drywall, edge it, start ripping furring strips and paint the ceiling and concession area. Oh, and the doors are in and waiting at HD for me. They called last week, even though they told me the 16th they'd be in. Go figure.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Theater seems to be coming along great. You are a few steps ahead of me in construction so it's nice to check your progress and see what I'm up against. How deep is your stage?? It seems shallower than the one I am planning on which is 4'. I would like to go shallower just so it will be cheaper and easier to build, but can't seem to find a way to do so. What besides your speakers are going behind it? I am putting my LCR and SW behind mine as well as my equipment rack which is why I need the depth. Look forward to seeing your progress.



Jon,


The rectangular portion is right at 26 inches wide. The farthest part of the curved portion of the stage is another 12.5 inches. I was limited by the postion of the door into the concession area. I could have gone maybe another 6 inches, but I didn't want it to look cramped. I plan on on the Ascends (LCR) and my Hsu VTF2 sub. It's deep enough for the sub and then some for the sub, which was my biggest concern. My equipment rack is off to the side in a separate closet, but can understand what you're doing. I ended up reversing the rack and closet door to give me more depth to get behind it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfisk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, really looking great!
> 
> 
> Reminds me that I should be working in the basement this winter... naaahhh
> 
> 
> Randy
> 
> 
> ps: I feel your pain on trim prices. Sheeze



Thanks. I can see the finish line now. If I had my kegorator installed, I'd never leave the basement... I take that back, IF I had the kegorator installed, I'd have to go outside, cuz I haven't finished the bathroom!


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sean,
> 
> 
> I like how you volunteer after drywall and mud!



Hey, timing is everything my friend!







As much as I would have like packing my suitcase with drywall dust laidened cloths to bring back.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You'd love it here. Lots of Double Ds here as well ....



I'm thinking your refering to Atlanta as a whole!!?

















Sean


----------



## HTScotty

Keeps getting better and better!! It's funny you changed your mind about how you have it mounted. I'm kinda "copying" your soffit design cuz I like it so much, but I had already decided to have my pj mounted under it like you have yours now. I noticed in the pic that your lens shift is all the way down. Is that because that's just where it was at the time, or is it that far because it HAD to be? I've heard the 900 has a big range on the shift, so I'm guessing that with it higher up, it'll still be within range? Should be. How far above the screen will it be? Anyway, keep up the great work man! You're an inspiration to us all!


----------



## chinadog

HTScotty,


Thanks. I had originally planned on an underneath mount, but because Ben Harper recommended I look at the Mits HC3000, I really wanted to make it work. Especially since he can get a great price on them. I thought about the extra effort and wasn't sure I could get it to work exactly how I wanted it to, so I went with the more flexible approach. Don't get me wrong, I could have just mounted it from the ceiling, but its not the look I was shooting for.


On the lens shift, it didn't have to be all the way down. I don't think the projector is exactly level either, I think it's point up some. There is some slight keystoning. I wanted to make sure I didn't get a dud. When I first turned on the projector, the picture was higher than the top of the outlined screen area in blue tape. It was below the soffit, but didn't measure it. I've been just playing with different viewing heights so I can figure out my screen position based on different seating positions on and off the riser. I've also been popping in non-16:9 movies, so I've centered the picture vertically (think black bars top and bottom). I have not played a standard 16:9 movie at this point. Will try soon.


When I first turned the projector on, the picture was almost as wide as the wall. Probably 130" diag.. I mounted the projector at about 13 feet, I think. The range/screen size adjustment of this thing is great. Picture is pretty sweet too. I have not done any calibration at this point since its going to come down shortly.


Bud


----------



## Brian OC

Bud,


I've been reading this thread for a couple months and have taken many idea's away from your room as well as other's rooms. Keep on trucking and git-r-dun before the nice weather arrives! I'm just starting mine but am gonna sub out some of the work to save a little time but am shooting for a July 4th unveiling.


Keep the great posts and pics coming!


Brian


----------



## chinadog

Brian,


Glad you find this thread and ideas helpful. Not sure the weather is going to stop me at this point, I'm too far along and can taste it. Good luck on your build! I'll be keeping an eye on your thread as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh man. I run out to do an errand and find a tower of boxes on my doorstep. I'm glad I invested in a hand truck. I ordered some shelving in different sizes (2 space, 3 space and 4 space) and a long 15 AMP vertical power outlet.











Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

It's like Christmas all over again!!










Sean


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, except I don't have to _give_ stuff this time! Just kidding. Just to myself I suppose...


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Well you'll be _giving_ the "gift" of a GREAT home theater to your family!!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead and called Comcast today to get another HD STB. I believe it's a Motorola DCT6200 , although my current box has DVI and the Motorola info on the DCT6200 doesn't show DVI. Maybe its the 6208 which includes a DVR (it has a record feature, but I don't subscribe and don't use it). I'm confused. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.


I'm also going to discuss this rats nest:










I have HDTV now and cable internet through comcast. My CAT5 and three phone lines are nicely organized in a structured wiring cabinet. I have purchase a second for the RG59 and RG6. I'll find out tomorrow if Comcast will restructure/remove all the damn splitters and replace with something equivalent to a Channel Plus DA-550BID Distribution Amplifier . I picked up one of these up on ebay, but not sure its exactly what I need for my purposes or not.


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ... Channel Plus DA-550BID Distribution Amplifier. I picked up one of these up on ebay, but not sure its exactly what I need for my purposes or not.
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud


About 9 months ago i change out a Channel master passive splitter with the Channel Plus distribution amplifier. Wow what a difference. We have charter cable and i split the single to eight TV in the house. we got a much better picture with the DA-550BID. Also got a better picture on channel 2-5. The old passive splitter had snow on the lower channels.


It is more then the amplifier because in the old configuration I had a ratshack amplifier before the splitter.


Even the wife noticed a difference, in my book that is the real test.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Greg, thanks for the reply. Great news. Do you also have a cable modem? I guess if there is an issue, I could split it prior to the 550BID. I assume you have no issue with HDTV either through it? Not sure of the technical aspects, frequency limits and that stuff.


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Greg, thanks for the reply. Great news. Do you also have a cable modem? I guess if there is an issue, I could split it prior to the 550BID. I assume you have no issue with HDTV either through it? Not sure of the technical aspects, frequency limits and that stuff.
> 
> 
> Bud



Yes we have a cable modem, it splits off before the 550BID. We get HDTV via Antenna signal not cable (we are close to Los Angles). We only have the extended cable package.


----------



## chinadog

Cool, thanks Greg. I'll post results tomorrow from Comcast. Trying to track down the shipping on the DA-550BID from the seller.


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


Great Thread. The more time I spend in the AVS forum the more I realize I'm not alone. I'm doing a very similar project and was curious about your plans for the bar.


How wide will the outside of the bar be?


How will you support it?


Keep up the good work.


Dave


----------



## chinadog

Hey Dave.


Thanks. I'm not sure how far you've gone back in the thread. Take a look at the design for the bar itself. It'll have some modifications since I've thought through a few things, but here is the link to the design of the bar:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6585440 


The measurements are as follows:










I used this design as a basis for the framing, so the measurements should be pretty accurate.


The bar was framed out with 2x6s to handle the PVC and copper. The actual support of the bar top will be on the 2x6s and corbels I plan to install once I've finalized the look of the outside of the bar (under the counter). A combination of the two should be sufficient.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


You are selling yourself short on the bar. It looks great - especially with the overhead angled soffit you constructed. I think you need to snap a few pics of that to show folks as I think it's one of the best bar layouts I've seen.


Oh, and now that sheetrocks done I'll have to swing by and lend a hand (or just drink your beer)!


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Thanks, dude. The bar was born out of necessity. Actually I should say the design was born out of necessity. I didn't start out with that shape, I was thinking more rectangular, but wanted to be able to walk though that area without having to walk around the bar. Originally I was going to drop a pool table in the middle of that room and with a rectangular bar, it would have been an obstacle course, hence the angled corner.


From there I had to deal with the laminate support right there as well as the ductwork, so the soffits were born. I wanted to have pendants over the bar. I had them put in the kitchen when we had the house built and really like them. The problem I had was that there was a metal return directly over where the lights needed to be. I figured I'd build something put run the the electrical, but thought the existing soffit would be way too low unless I used cans, which is why its smaller. I also wanted to make sure the pendants dropped over specific sections above the bar, what is why it ended up angled to mimic the angles of the bar. I guess necessity is the mother of invention, huh?


Here's a shot of the ceiling/soffit in bar area.










You can see the in ceiling speakers in the bar and if you look close, you can see a spec on the bottom of the picture which is the IR receiver that will be tied into the rack back in the HT room. I also ran HDMI, component, RG6, CAT 5, RS232 and speaker wire into that same wall the IR received is on. I plan on a plasma on that wall at some point.


Should be pretty sweet when it's painted, cabinets are in and beer if flowing.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Greg, thanks for the reply. Great news. Do you also have a cable modem? I guess if there is an issue, I could split it prior to the 550BID. I assume you have no issue with HDTV either through it? Not sure of the technical aspects, frequency limits and that stuff.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,

Check the link for the splitter you posted. It says "The DA550BID offers a 5-42 MHz return path for bi-directional communication for use with cable modems and pay-per-view applications."


You shouldn't have to worry about splitting the line for your cable modem. Still looking good!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Check the link for the splitter you posted. It says "The DA550BID offers a 5-42 MHz return path for bi-directional communication for use with cable modems and pay-per-view applications."
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to worry about splitting the line for your cable modem. Still looking good!



Jerrod,


Yeah, I saw that so I knew it was bidirectional, but I didn't put two and two together or I must have spaced. Thanks.


BTW, these things are not cheap, so I took advantage of the one I saw on ebay. I think the guy has a few more left. Look at item number *5831179774*. Great deal on these puppies for anyone who is interested.


Bud


----------



## platdaddy

Nice!


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, these things are not cheap, so I took advantage of the one I saw on ebay. I think the guy has a few more left. Look at item number *5831179774*. Great deal on these puppies for anyone who is interested.
> 
> 
> Bud



They are a good price. But part of the price reduction is because there is NO power supply!


----------



## chinadog

Ahh! You're kidding! Crap!


----------



## GPowers

Thats what his description stated:


Features Bi-directional CATV applications

12 volt bi-directional IR remote control from any TV location

Antenna or CATV input: 5-806MHz reverse 5-42Mhz

Maximum input level: +20dBmV with 48 channels

2 modulator inputs

8 outputs up to 150'

Expandable to up to 64 TV ouputs with additional units

Can be powered remotely using media center wall plate

Power supply NOT included


----------



## chinadog

Its ok, I just looked. On the phone with Channel plus now, getting the part number to order it. Damn. Too good to be true!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its ok, I just looked. On the phone with Channel plus now, getting the part number to order it. Damn. Too good to be true!
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Was thinking of buying one myself. Did you ever find out about the power supply specs (voltage, amps, connector type)? Also, did you ever get a cost on the replacement CP power supply? I have a ton of extra power supplies at the house, so one I have might fit the unit specs.


----------



## chinadog

Swithey and Greg,


I just ordered the power supply . Came to about 26 bucks with shipping. Still not a bad deal. The people at Channel Plus told me the part number (350-086) and that the power/IR adapter comes with the power supply. I also confirmed the part number and the specs. Its the right one. Check out the contents section on page two of the DA-550BID manual .


Whew! Good find Greg, thanks!


Bud


----------



## GPowers

The power supply has a non-standard connector. See picture below:











Also the power supply is 15VDC 300mA


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The power supply has a non-standard connector.
> 
> 
> Also the power supply is 15VDC 300mA



Greg,


Ah, 15volts is a bit off the wall. I may not have one of those. Damn, may need to buy the one Bud got. Thanks.


----------



## chinadog

Well, Comcast showed up late, but at least showed up. It's the same HD STB, the Motorola 6200 without the DVR. I went ahead and hooked it up, I had some crimp on F connectors, so I temporarily used those. HD pictures like Discovery HDTV look amazing. SD looks not that great. Looking forward to getting some compression fittings and the DA550BID and see if that makes a difference. The installer basically handed me the box and said what I had was fine, although if I requested Comcast to, they could reconfigure the distribution for free (but he couldn't do it then for some reason). I'll try the DA550BID and if I'm not satisfied, I'll get their Comcast butts back here.


The kids and I just watched Madagascar and now we're watching a Rugrats movie. The wife has been out of town all week, so having the projector up and watching movies with them has kept them happy and preoccupied.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh and BTW, the installer told me that all the lower analog channels will be going digital in the near future, which will improve those. He said something about analog sets will require a small box though. Not sure when and all the detais. I think this was slip.


Bud


----------



## R-U-Q-R-U




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh and BTW, the installer told me that all the lower analog channels will be going digital in the near future, which will improve those. He said something about analog sets will require a small box though. Not sure when and all the detais. I think this was slip.
> 
> 
> Bud



Sounds right. IF all channels are digital you need a STB for all TV's. The kicker is will they charge you for basic cable channels that used to "FREE" on your analog TV? That is, for sets that get basic without an STB and now will require one will they hit you for $5/month or so per box?


----------



## miltimj

Man, lots of catching up to do on your thread..


Anyway, I made a structured distribution panel as well (though I just mounted everything to a piece of plywood). I bought a Channel Vision HS-16 16-way splitter and Comcast came out and supplied me with an amplifier, and wired everything (except the 16 cables to the rooms) with they're high quality compression coax terminators, all for free. It works great.


Regarding STBs.. they simulcast in analog and digital, so whichever display you connect to the STB is digital, and everything else (just straight off the coax) is analog, but works without an STB. That's how I currently have mine -- one STB (HD DVR.. $10/month extra is the best money I spend every month!).


By the way, what do you mean by "pendants" above your bar?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R-U-Q-R-U* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is, for sets that get basic without an STB and now will require one will they hit you for $5/month or so per box?



Not sure, but I'll guess we'll find out in the near future.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


That thing is a beast! Right now I have 7 hookups, although I have many more runs throughout the house that are just not active, like the kids rooms. I have an amplifier now that Comcast supplied (not sure if you can tell by the picture of the rats nest), which is why the installer said I shouldn't have any issues with the splitters. No much signal loss with those splitters he said. My SD channels are OK on smaller sets, but on my 51 Hitachi, its not the best. Maybe I'll get lucky like Greg and it'll improve.


I have not jumped on the DVR thing yet. I know people swear by it. I haven't seen it in action. May be worth a look.


On the pendants, something like this, although a different style. These are "mini" pendants, which is the type I'll use. I bought them already, they're in a boxes in storage. Maybe if I have some free time, I'll hook one up and snap a shot of it.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

BTW, just got back from HD. I had to go pick up my 6 doors, just got around to getting them, since the wife is back from her trip. Someone from HD actually helped me put them in the back of the truck this time. Amazing!


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud, Thanks for the info on the bar. I was curious of the width of the bar top section, its not on the drawing. I was planning on 24" but your design is similar to what I have in our kitchen, that bar top is 14.5" wide. Also what material are you planning for the bar top?


Also wondering if you can tell me how to add images to your posts, I signed up for fotki but I don't know how to add images directly to the posts, any info would be appreciated.


Here's one that I want to add to my construction thread, my current layout.

http://images14.fotki.com/v256/filev...ing16Nov05.jpg 


Thanks,


Dave


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


The top of the bar will be about 18 inches wide, the counter on the cabinets will be your typical 24-25 inches. I hope to do granite, thats what we have upstairs in our kitchen. I like the look. I thought about wood or doing something else more creative, but I'm leaning towards granite right now.


As far as posting images, you just need to use the "Post reply" button to the left at the top and bottom of each page versus the "Quick Reply" area at the bottom of the page. Gives you an icon (circled below) that you can use that will prompt you for the image location. OR you can put "







" tags around the URL for the picture.











Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


I really appreciate the help. I tryed it and it work perfectly, thanks again.


As far as the bar goes from my link, I'm going to wait until drywall is complete then I'll a 2x6 wall like yours and make the final decisions inside the room with my wife. Thanks for the ideas.


Keep up the good work, I'll be following your progress.


Dave


----------



## beatboy77

Bud,


Everything is looking AWESOME!!!! I am a bit jealous. Mine is coming along, but I think you will beat me. Hey out of curiosity, you said you work from home, which makes working on the project easier some times. What do you do for work?


~Josh


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beatboy77* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Everything is looking AWESOME!!!! I am a bit jealous. Mine is coming along, but I think you will beat me. Hey out of curiosity, you said you work from home, which makes working on the project easier some times. What do you do for work?
> 
> 
> ~Josh



Josh,


Male prostitute extroidanaire....










I actually manage software development projects. I'm a certified project manager with a large "International Business" that also makes "Machines". They also just announced a freeze on their pension plan. Lucky me. This will be my 17th year. I have developers in India, China, Brazil, Belarus and of all places, Tampa. Doesn't make a lot of sense to be in a typical office with the people I deal with daily. I came up through the programming ranks, did tech lead and architecture work, then got into project management about 6 years ago. My educational background is as follows. BS in Electronic Engineering Technology, minor in Computer Science from University of Hartford (CT). MS in Computer Science from Southern Tech. MBA from Emory University and Masters Certificate in Project Management from George Washington University.


Size 11 shoe.


EDIT: No need to be jealous, you're right there and it'll be just as nice.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GranTheaterO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> I really appreciate the help. I tryed it and it work perfectly, thanks again.
> 
> 
> As far as the bar goes from my link, I'm going to wait until drywall is complete then I'll a 2x6 wall like yours and make the final decisions inside the room with my wife. Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work, I'll be following your progress.
> 
> 
> Dave



Dave,


Saw your layout initially, but when I just looked again, got an error. Anyway, I had to plan it out that way because I had a dependency to get the wall if for the plumber to run the PVC and copper for the sink. I went down to Home Depot and sat down with a kitchen person who helped with the design. It doesn't cost anything and it sure helps to visualize and plan what you want. I'd recommend it to anyone thinking about using cabinets for a bar.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Chief mount (RPA225) came today. Took about 15 minutes to pull down the Peerless and mount the Chief. I like the result. Will post pictures tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I actually manage software development projects. I'm a certified project manager with a large "International Business" that also makes "Machines". They also just announced a freeze on their pension plan. Lucky me. This will be my 17th year. I have developers in India, China, Brazil, Belarus and of all places, Tampa. Doesn't make a lot of sense to be in a typical office with the people I deal with daily. I came up through the programming ranks, did tech lead and architecture work, then got into project management about 6 years ago. My educational background is as follows. BS in Electronic Engineering Technology, minor in Computer Science from University of Hartford (CT). MS in Computer Science from Southern Tech. MBA from Emory University and Masters Certificate in Project Management from George Washington University.



Wow, we have pretty similar backgrounds.. you just seem to have more experience than me.







I worked for the same company (if I can figure out your code correctly..







) I did for five years, and was rejoicing the day I left -- far too much politics and nothing got done due to upper mgmt (not related to PMs, mind you







). I also have a CS degree (minor in math), albeit it's a BS in CS.


----------



## GranTheaterO

I think we're all migrating to the same Internet location. I have a similar background (BS Engineering, MS Engineering Management) as well, except never worked for a Fortune 500 and a few years back I gave up coding and moved into marketing, for a software company of course.


Birds of a feather share stories of their Home Theaters together.


Now if only I could figure out a way to retire early and spend more time working on the HT.


Take care,


Dave


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Doesn't surprise me really. I think us computer/engineering types like to tinker, figure things out and stretch the noggin. Once I finish the build, I'll need to find a new obsession or I'll go insane.


Tim,


I hear ya and good for you. I'm second generation and half my family either works there or has worked there. Same with my wife's side, including her. She's got 20 years in. Makes for dull dinner conversation!


Bud


----------



## Darkking

Geez all this talk of education and work makes me feel inadequate







All I have is a BS in BS.







I'm a delivery driver but think of myself as pretty handy so hopefully when I get my HT going I'm not overwelmed


----------



## chinadog

Nah, just spend all your waking time reading AVS and you can produce a theater just as nice as all the others!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few (blurry) shots of the projector on the new mount. As you can see, I picked up at least 2 inches, maybe three.



















HTScotty,


On the lens shift thing. I made sure that the mount upper portion of the mount was perfectly level (back to front) prior to attaching the projector this time. When I turned the projector on, the image was about 4 inches above the blue tape with the lens shift all the way down. I ended up tilting the projector down some and then corrected with the fine vertical adjustment. When I build the screenwall, I'll actually raise the screen a little now. Based on my calculations and my seating preferences, I think it'll work out better than where the current screen position is.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's a side by side (more like top to bottom) comparison of the two mounts.


New Chief mount:










Old Peerless Universal mount:









*EDIT: Updated blurry photo!*


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


I have to admit (fuzzy pictures and all) that the Chief mount looks much nicer and cleaner than the Peerless. I say it was a good choice in swaping the two out.


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


I guess with the universal mounts, they have to accommodate mutiple machines obviously, so its designed with all that flexibility in mind and that adds to the height factor. It's actually a pretty nicely designed mount and would have kept it if the right height was there. If I had kept it, the projector box would be much lower than I'd like it to be. Anyway, another problem solved.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good Bud,


Quick question - Did you expose the electrical outlet or is it hidden in the ceiling? I am trying to decide. Seems that putting it up in the ceiling - it would look nicer, but it would be hard to change the plug if one where to change projectors and it required a different power supply cord.


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


I think you have to have it exposed, it may be a fire hazard if not. Not sure. It's there, its behind the projector attached to a stud and drywalled. It'll be covered by the projector box as well though.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Yes, you have to have the outlet exposed. Even a junction box that has a blank plate on it (e.g. to splice wires together to extend a run) needs to be accessible. That doesn't mean you can't paint it or hide it in a (removable) box like Bud just mentioned..


----------



## chinadog

Good news!


Got an email and a tracking number from Ascend, the speakers have offically been shipped. I ordered those back on Dec. 15. I think they'll be here on Monday. Also, the Carada screen should be here any day now.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good news!
> 
> 
> Got an email and a tracking number from Ascend, the speakers have offically been shipped. I ordered those back on Dec. 15. I think they'll be here on Monday. Also, the Carada screen should be here any day now.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I've heard that these speakers are just unbelievable sounding for the price. Please comment on them once you get them installed!! BTW, what AMP(s) are planning to use with these speaker?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I will post my comments when I have them up and running. I have the Yamaha RXV2600, although I only fired it up to make sure it worked. I have not attempted to even use it yet. I needed banana plugs before I could try it out. The mail just came and sure enough, they're here.


Also in the mail today from Monoprice was my DVI/HDMI cable to connect my HD STB to the Yamaha and my gender changers for the RS232 cable I ran to the projector (outside the conduit). I actually reversed the cable by mistake, so I had female to female at the projector and male to male at the other end, although I don't plan on connecting it in the near future. I only mention it to ensure people don't make the same mistake.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Guess what arrived today? Looks like its time to build that screen wall.



















BTW, its still in the box, the other thing is an old bedframe I'm getting rid of!


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I've heard that these speakers are just unbelievable sounding for the price. Please comment on them once you get them installed!! BTW, what AMP(s) are planning to use with these speaker?



You lucky dog you.... I can't wait until I'm in that phase. Please do let us know what you think of the Ascends. Did you order their new upgraded 340 series? (can't recall the name) If so was that why there was the delay? I am planning on the Axiom M80's which are quite a bit more, but if these can fill my 21' X 16' theater with a good SW, that could save me some serious $$$. The only thing that is really holding me back is they don't have a dipolar or quadpolar surround speaker.


Have fun!!


----------



## chinadog

Jon,


They're the CMT 340 Special Editions (SEs). The just went into production this past week. They're not advertised yet on the website, just discussed in the Ascend forums. I called them directly to get my name on the list when they came out. I went with LCR only, I have inceilings for surrounds...


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Let me see Bud -


- projector? check

- receiver? check

- speakers? check

- screen? check

- subwoofer? check


Anyone here want to make a wager that progress is going to slow?


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Funny guy! And where might you be on your build, Mr. Harper? Oh, thought so!


Got plenty to do still and will keep pluggin.... plan on taking some time off towards the end of the month to do at least my tile work. Got a theater, need a restroom...


EDIT: Oh.. and looking forward to breaking out the framing nailer and starting your space!


Bud


----------



## SmX

Looking good Bud. I myself finally made it to the Fabric point. I spent nearly 2 weeks farting around with color Samples of Stains, but now that's out of the way, the fabric seems to be moving along.


You got so many pages in your thread that I don't know if you ordered your GoM yet. But if you didn't, make sure you get all you need at the Same time. I ordered a second Roll of Black from the same Place a couple months later and it was a Slightly different Black and different Weave. Good thing it's not going to butt up against the first black GoM I got.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


Thanks. I have not ordered GOM yet. Plan to do so shortly, but thanks for the tip. Good timing on your GOM, I'll be watching for tips and techniques from your end. Did you order through fabricmate?


Lots of pages here, I changed the number of posts per page to 60, so that certainly helps.


Bud


----------



## hlomax

Hey Bud,

Great job on the theatre so far.. I took the entire day yesterday to view your entire thread from start to end.. and i was amazed at all the work you have put into it .. Like you i too am in the Atlanta area, Powder Springs, Ga. to be exact. At this very moment we are in the process of building our Home in a subdivision in which there is a basement that i intend to do something similar. Part of it will be a dedicated HT, no windows in the design.. and the other half will be a gym / play area for my wife and boys. Estimated time to move in is middle to late Feb 06. I cant wait to get settled in so that i can start my construction of my HT. Please keep up the good work because between you and Sandman I have learned a ton.. take care and thanks for posting such an awsome thread!!!!


Max


----------



## chinadog

Hey Max,


Thanks. Welcome to the forum and thread. LOL, an entire day? Pretty funny. Good luck with the new house, February is almost upon us. I hear Powder Springs is booming. Is the new house on Powder Springs also?


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Awesome!!! Almost there...


gary


----------



## larryep

keep up the great work Bud. Your thread is a wealth of knowledge.


----------



## Ben Harper

Max, Bud, Jason and all other north Atlanta HT geeks


We are literally within a few miles of each other. Need to plan a gathering soon otherwise we are just slackers!


Hurry up and finish Bud so we can trash your place first!


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


I think Jason plans on coming by Tuesday night when the Ascends arrive, you're welcome to come by as well. I should have the frame together and maybe even the screen wall done.


Max, and as Ben puts it, you "north Atlanta HT geeks", you guys are welcome as well!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Gary and Larry,


Thanks guys! Keep up the work yourselves. I'll be watching!


Bud


----------



## Gerry S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Max, Bud, Jason and all other north Atlanta HT geeks
> 
> 
> We are literally within a few miles of each other. Need to plan a gathering soon otherwise we are just slackers!
> 
> 
> Hurry up and finish Bud so we can trash your place first!
> 
> 
> Ben



North Atlanta Home Theater Geek Present!!


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ruben,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I have not ordered GOM yet. Plan to do so shortly, but thanks for the tip. Good timing on your GOM, I'll be watching for tips and techniques from your end. Did you order through fabricmate?
> 
> 
> Lots of pages here, I changed the number of posts per page to 60, so that certainly helps.
> 
> 
> Bud



I ordered through Fabricmate as well. Its funny, because they said they are following my thread as well. They were bugging out when they found out I was SandmanX from AVS










They recently Raised their prices to $12.50 a yard as well. Not the end of the world but its a few bucks more now. Also, they have super fast delivery, and black seems to be the hardest to get because its always out of stock. I think they just got some more black back in at GoM.


Ruben


----------



## Ben Harper

Tuesday sounds good Bud. I can bring a few PJs (Z3, Z4, and HX1) if you want to do a quick comparison.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

That's fine, although now that I've got the AE900, not sure I would want to be tempted by something else!! We can do it around 7:00 if thats OK. I can order some pizza and I'll pick up some beer. Jason, that ok with you?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Finished three doors yesterday that will be painted yesterday. This includes the door to the mechanical room/workshop, closet by the bar and the bathroom. Did all the casing as well. I also did the molding around the entrance into the gameroom. The three other doors for the HT room are solid pine, which I'll stain when I get there. I do not plan on install these doors until after I get all the painting done inside (ceiling, concession area) and out of the HT room. I do not want to get any paint or primer on the doors. I need to do the base and crown before I can paint as well. I'll be ordering the base and crown through my neighbor the builder (paint grade stuff) so it'll get delivered and I won't have to deal with hauling 16 pieces of trim on top of the truck.


I also picked up some nice 2x4s for the screen wall. Today I will pull the screen frame out of the box and put it together. With the Criterion Series, the black trim is much bigger, so I may have go to back to a 100" screen from the 104". I need all the room I can get on the sides for the proscenium.


Here are a few picks of yesterdays work:


























Also, my in-laws will be here on Friday for about two weeks, which means I'll need to do the tile work in the bathroom pretty soon we can make final connections for the bathroom plumbing. I may end up taking a day or two to wrap that up in the next week or so.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Looking REAL good. I can't wait to see those Pine doors. Do you plan to keep them natural color or stain them somthing darker?


I feel like I'm standing still on my HT compared to yours. Note to self -- "Must move faster, must move faster!


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. I plan on staining them a darker color. I also plan on building a few lightboxes and staining those, the crown, base, the hand railing up the steps. I'd like to match or compliment the color the cabinets in the concession area and bar.


You're doing great and I assume you'll pass me in no time!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud and Ben -


Tuesday night sounds great. Got in late from Savannah last night so I have been catching up on the progress. I'll bring the beers - just tell me what kind you guys like.


Ben - Looking forward to meeting you. I hear a rumor that you are starting/or have started a business selling HT equiptment, screens, and other HT stuff and have great prices to quote a reliable source. Looking forward to discussing that with you as well!


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Ben and Jason,


Will one of you guys bring a HDMI cable with you tomorrow? I need to test the S97 to the 2600 and the cable that Panasonic provides may be the cause of the problem I'm having. I don't have an extra. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ascends arrived in great condition. Others in the speaker forum mentioned UPS trashed their boxes. Anyway, ran downstairs and hooked them up and ran through some of the demo material posted out here. They sounds great. I'm no audiophile, but they are very clean and crisp, from the little time I just spent with them.











I'll post some close ups probably tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Cool! Doesn't it feel awesome to get new electronics?


----------



## chinadog

Reaper,


Yes and very addicting!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


Your Ascends are delivered the same day I ordered mine..... if you have any ideas on how to make 2 weeks go by without thinking about them, please let me know. Better yet, the new Hsu sub I ordered won't be ready until March sometime. That's going to be painful!


I'll be interested to hear more thoughts about them, and also about the Carada screen because I'll probably get one of those. Don't you feel great since you're past the drywall stage? I wish I was!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod, I think I ordered my Ascends a month ago. You know what helps, having older speakers ? I had old Infinitys, so at least I had something to tie me over. I bought my Hsu used, so can't help you there! So far I'm very happy with them. Played a variety of movies scenes and music and they seem very crisp. People have said they've heard things with these speakers in scenes they never heard before, I can attest to that. Great product at a great price.


On the Carada screen. I'm about to do a long post on my situation with that. Looks to be pretty sweet as well.


I'm very happy to be done with drywall. BUT, now I wish I was done with trim, paint, doors, etc. Just a different hump to get over. Smaller humps, but humps!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Couple of shots of the Ascends:


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, need your opinions here. Ben, you too please.


I may have made a mistake on the screen size I ordered, which has impacted my progress on the screen wall and proscenium. I have a few options, so I'll throw them out here. If there are other options, let me know.


In my original plan, I was going to go with a 100" diagonal screen. This would leave me roughly 24" on the sides to build the proscenium to house the sub and speakers. I planned on a screen wall 12"-14" off the back wall to put my center channel above/below the screen and have it hidden.


I thought I could sneak in a few more inches on the screen and ordered a 104" screen. I also went with the Carada Criterion, since it had nicer trim. Screen came. Pretty nice, actually.


Well the extra width and the LARGER trim has increased the width of the screen by about 12" inches. This in turn leaves me with only 18 inches on the sides (24-12/2) versus the 24 I planned on. I could fit the Ascends in on the side easily and shrink down the proscenium some, BUT the subwoofer is 16 inches wide. I had planned on building speaker like covers for access to the speakers and sub, but its now just too tight to get the sub in there. I now have an inch on either side to play width. Make sense?


So here are dome of my options:

No proscenium, all front speakers/sub exposed to the theater.
Get a new smaller sub. Maybe even two, like the Hsu STF-1s.
Get a smaller screen. Go back to 100 inches or smaller. Get the other Carada type with the smaller trim.
Open the wall directly left of the stage (behind proscenium, like a bump out) that shares the equipment closet. Make it a little larger to accommodate the extra width of the sub and make a smaller proscenium.
Put the sub in the equipment closet. Its immediately next to the stage.
Move to wall that shares concession are cabinets, install in cabinet and open wall.











There are trade-offs for all these options obviously. I'd like to keep the sub and hide it, but I'm not hung up on it. I'd like to keep the screen size, but that's the cause of the problem.


Any other ideas?


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


If I understand you correctly you are building a false wall 12"-14" infront of the existing wall in the picture so you can house the center channel into it?!!


Can you build the prosceniums to house the left/right speakes and then "kick" out the bottom of them by 2-3 inches to house the sub on one side, and the other side could be for a future sub or storage?!

That way you have the full width for your nicer bigger screen but have the space below for a sub.


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


The screenwall would have the center channel and the screen itself, hide the wiring, Linacoustic behind it. like this:










I think I understand what you're saying. Like this?


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Ya.


I guess I wasn't entirely sure as to your design when I suggested that. Your buidling that false wall as stand alone by the looks of your drawing. I thought your were building out the entire wall and then "traying" the screen itself.


Like

 


I'm not sure of your speaker or sub dimensions, you might be able to 45 the sides.


----------



## chinadog

Thought about the treying. It would keep the screen on the back wall, similar to a shadow box. If I were to do that and keep the bumped out portion (depth, I guess) for the sub across the front of the whole stage, I'd lose most of the stage. The required depth for the sub is like 22 inches, the stage is 26 inches. If I were to build it out the sub area and stop it at the dotted line (in your diagram) than I'd still have most of the stage.


Bud


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Your design is quite similar to mine Bud, I have built my proscenium already. Left and right speakers on either side of the screen, center channel is above the screen in the soffit and sub is directly below the center channel. I am currently working on "boxing" in the area below the screen to house the sub and create a shadow box. I factored this in to the design so my stage is deeper.


I personally wouldn't leave the speakers exposed. I did this on my first theater and thought it never looked finished.


I am not fond of corner loaded subs so I keep them out near the center of the wall to reduce "boomy" bass. I also have a second identical sub in the rear of the room. If you are considering moving to two smaller subs this may be a good route to go for several reasons. You will have more even bass throughout the room, you will lose less depth on your stage if you go the shadowbox method to mention just a few.


With subs more is better 4 being ideal, but it will be more difficult to set up as well. I wouldn't recommend recessing it into a wall as that opens up a whole new can of worms. It will alter the performance of your sub, for the same reason corner loading alters its performance. I was considering recessing my subs into the walls as well but the experts say it is a big no-no.


You could also look at putting your sub elsewhere in the room. My first room had the sub, a sonotube monster, on the rear seating riser. Yours is may be small enough to hide behind you back row.


Looking great so far Bud! The proscenium is a fun build as it really starts looking like a real theater now.

Rob


----------



## chinadog

Hey Rob,


Thanks for the reply. I agree, I like the hidden look and thats what I wanted all along.


Every option has its compromises. As so many others would say, I wish I had another few feet of width and length in the room. I don't have a large riser nor stage because of the characteristics of the room. The dimensions, the doors, etc. I'm sure I'll hear arguments from folks that say my room is bigger than theirs. Point being that I don't have enough room on the riser for a sub unless I give up seating, since its so tight.


If I go the shadow box type route, I think I'd alter it some so it would have some angles both top and bottom to give it some character. I'd have to bump out the bottom some due to the sub depth, similar to what Sean was referring to. I'm big on the symmetrical look, so I'd probably do both sides the same and a variation of it on the top, just not as deep. I would though have to put the sub in the corner or lose most of the stage. Again, another compromise. Where the sub is sitting now, sounds good to me, although I haven't moved it around too much. I need to see what impact it'll have int he corner.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


I would take the easy way out and reduce the screen size (maybe just because I'm lazy!). Given all the options that have been presented, reducing the screen seems to be the only option that will allow you to continue down your original (and seemingly most desired) plan.


Just curious, do you have one of the HSU front firing subs or is it down-firing? Could dictate placement.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Down-firing. I may prototype a shadow box (or parts of) I had in mind since I have the lumber. That would allow me to at least see if its feasible to keep the screen size and still keep in line with the look I was trying to achieve. If that doesn't work, I'll have to look at possibly going smaller (_say it isn't so!_).


Bud


----------



## Gerry S

Bud,


If you have your heart set on the larger screen, wouldn't changing the sub be the path of least resistance. Those Hsu subs hold their value well (in terms of reselling it); or perhaps they would give you credit towards some smaller ones.


Just a thought...


Gerry


----------



## chinadog

Gerry,


Definately a possibility. I actually got the VTF-2 MK2 from Audiogon used and got a pretty good price on it, so not sure I could get a credit on it. I'm sure I could sell it though privately.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I threw together some lumber today for a screen wall. It still needs cripple studs, be secured to the stage and soffit, etc, so its not done. I may even pull the wall out from 12-14 inches so the center channel is flush with the screen, like my original design. The goal here was to see just how big the screen would be (physically).


The actual viewing dimensions of the screen are a little smaller than the inside of the box opening. The outer dimensions of the screen with the trim will cover the opening and the upper and lower 2x4 supports in the picture. The actual bracket will be mounted on these horizontal 2x4x. If I go with a smaller screen, I could frame out the interior of the box and easily make it smaller. It'll all be covered with GOM anyway.


The painted screen you see if what was inside the blue tape That was a 100" screen (87.2 inches wide by 49 inches high) if I measured it correctly. You can see the difference in size between the two. The new 104" screen has a viewing area of 90.6 inches wide by 51 inches high. Anyway, I have just about 17 inches on each side of the outer 2x4s.


If you look close at the screen capture, you can see the difference between the painted screen on the wall and the overlap of the picture. The image is almost identical to the actual new screen size.


















Bud


----------



## jandawil

Man!!! Sure is looking nice Bud. I'm a huge fan of larger screens so I would try my hardest to keep the screen you have rather than send it back for a smaller one. It looks like the front LR speakers will fit if they are to be placed over your sub on some sort of shelf or stand. That way you don't have to lose the screen size or proscenium. Good luck.


----------



## GPowers

Bud:


A golf video, is what your using. Man is that un-exciting.


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


HA! It was actually INHD "Lesson from the Pros" on Comcast. A cloudy day at that. I wasn't trying to really do a test of the projector, just to get an image up so you could see the difference in screen sizes! I haven't done any calibration or tweaks. Seems all the paused videos I've tried to take pictures of just don't come out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


Just for you, buddy! You can still see the difference in Nemo and Ice Age, but Incredibles is in a different format.



























Bud


----------



## GPowers

Now that what i'am talking about, I can get excited about a good movie.


Looking good Bud


----------



## larryep

o no bud now your not going to finish










actually it is very hard not to do but once you have your fix you'll be back at it.


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Nah. I'm half-stalled until I get this damn screenwall figured out though. I order the base and trim molding for the non-HT room next week and I think I'm going to take two days off next week to tile my bathroom. I need to figure out what tile I want still, though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Future Ascend SE owners,


For you guys who are considering the Ascend SEs, here is the Ascend SE Owners thread . Good reviews there as well as more pictures.


BTW, I'm loving them! Enjoy!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man!!! Sure is looking nice Bud. I'm a huge fan of larger screens so I would try my hardest to keep the screen you have rather than send it back for a smaller one. It looks like the front LR speakers will fit if they are to be placed over your sub on some sort of shelf or stand. That way you don't have to lose the screen size or proscenium. Good luck.



Jon,


Thanks. Even though I haven't actually done anything with it yet, I'm getting attached to it. Must be destiny. Still a little tight though for the original design.


Going to also demo the Hsu STF-1 and see what happens. I've read good things about it, but expect it won't perform like my VTF-2 MK2 . I ordered it through Ascend, so I can send it back within 30 days if I decide on another route.


Bud


----------



## Snakehunter

Bud,


Is something like this possible:











You could simply add a removable GOM wrapped filler piece to take up the gap at the bottom between the farthest outside cripple stud and the areas to the left/right of the screen. Or you could try to make those parts of the proscenium that are right and left of the screen have a little bump out at the bottom that fill in the gap.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Tom,


Definitely an option. I think this is what Sean (MaximAVS) was eluding to. Jason and I talked about that the other night as well, but I dismissed it initially. After looking at it some, I was thinking that as long as it didn't look too "boxie (sp)" that it may work. I was thinking of 45 degree angles from the inside box corners to the screenwall. Your picture looks good two dimensionally. I'll draw up something to show you what I was thinking.


I placed the sub there today to listen to it. It sounds fine to me, although slightly different from where it was, I think. I'm Definitely thinking center above the screen as well, which would alow me to still have some stage.


Bud


EDIT: I hate this spell checker, its worthless!


----------



## chinadog

This is a top view, but shows you what I was thinking about the sub "box" if you will. The red area would go up almost to the bottom of the screen. The blue area would be above the sub obviously I thought about angling that if it would look right and if I had the real estate to do so. The green box would be a small soffit like are above the screen to house the center channel. This would sort of hard to draw from the front.


Comments?











Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


I have an HSU STF-1 two streets away from you (Rob H. street) that I think the owner (or really his wife) would rather not have. Just put it in last Saturday. Nice sub, but definitely not a VTF-2.


If interested, let me know.


Ben


----------



## Snakehunter

Ahhh yes - sorry, missed his picture: it pays to fully read every post first! MaximAVS has given me some good ideas in the past, it must have rubbed off










Are the 34 degree angle strickly for looks, to get away from the "multiple boxes" look, or is there some functionality to it?


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Whats up with that? Were you going to replace it? If it works out, I could ship the other one back to Ascend. No problem there.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

This latest drawing looks like a winner to me. I really like how the red sub boxes are angled back to the procenium. That gives the stage a very nice depth dimension and finished look.


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


I'm liking that design as well. I thought about doing a smaller angled version at the top for symmetrical reasons, but not sure at this point.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I agree... the latest drawing is actually what I was thinking of as I read your first description of your issue.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


That last design is what I was eluding to in my previous post.. But I couldn't draw fast enough at work to post a picture!!










I would really try and keep that bigger screen. Nothing worse than sending a perfectly good screen back and stall your progress on the wall until the new one gets there!


After you add the boxed out area above the screen for the center, will you get a shadow on your screen from the projector?!


Sean

I love the progress thus far!!


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Good point and question, but I don't think so. The actual screen will rest on top of the framed out area you see now, not in the frame itself. The Criterion Series trim around the screen is pretty wide, it's 3.25 inches, which I accounted for. Take a look at the trim:











The center channel is like 11 inches deep and you need a few inches, so I'l looking at the front of that box to be at about 14 inches. I picked up almost 4-5 inches from the back wall already. Here's how .. the 3.5" for the stud width, a small gap between the screen wall and drywall, almost probably 1", and then the screen itself is off the wall. So that means I'm looking at only a 9-10 inch box anyway.


I'll definitely verify before install installing any framing though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, here's a followup to my Channel Plus post a few weeks ago.


My ChannelPlus DA-550ID arrived a few minutes ago. I paid for the damn thing on December 29th. I got like on email response from this joker on Jan 5th stating he shipped it then. I sent him a nasty email yesterday as well. It looks to be in good shape, although the three pins for the adapter were bent, but fixable. I went back and read some of the feedback and although this guy had like a 98% favorable rating, he's a pompous ass.


I did receive the power supply about two weeks ago. It did NOT have the damn adapter for it like I was told by the Channel Plus folks. I though maybe the seller would have included it. Nope.


Good news though. I called Channel Plus technical support and they just dropped one in the mail for me.


Abierce and whoever else who might have purchased one of these without the power supply, I'd suggest you call Channel Plus customer service if you need the adapter as well. Their number is 800.999.5225. The part number for the power supply is 350-086.


Will hopefully install inthe next two weeks.


Bud


----------



## GPowers

Glad you got the channel plus all worked out.


I though the power supply and the little adaptor was going to be the problem. The adaptor is very odd, and did not look like it was an off the shelf part. That was why i brought it up several weeks a go. The little parts can be a bear to get some times. Sounds like the manufacture is giving you better support then the E-bay seller did.


----------



## Snakehunter

Bud,


What about keeping your original screen wall like you wanted it and just building an access panel between the cripple studs like this?:


----------



## chinadog

Hey Tom.


The depth of the rectangular portion of the stage is 26 inches and the depth of the sub is like 20 inches. If I move the sub more towards the center, than unlikely I could do the angle into the screen to make it look right, I'd probably would have to do a shadow box all the way across the front and lose the stage almost entirely. I really think the combination of last drawing with your support legs shifted inward could possibly be the way to go. If I leave the screen wall up against the drywall, I wouldn't have to even move those legs in, since I have _just_ enough room to squeeze in. I think if I were to pull the whole screen wall forward to have a straight up and down screen wall (no box across the top) with the center behind it, I'd have to definitely notch.


I'm thinking I need to put the screen frame together and just mount that to see if that helps me.


Bud


----------



## Snakehunter

Uh oh. I see it now. First the screen frame gets built. Then it's "Let's see what it looks like with the screen on". Then, before you know it, it looks like this for 2 months:











All kidding aside, you're probably right. Start mocking it up and seeing if it will work sounds like the best course of action before you actually start constructing what would be a final product. The angled sides seem like they would look pretty cool.


----------



## chinadog

Not gonna happen, my friend, trust me! Thanks for your ideas, BTW.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I hope you left that Ebay seller negative feedback describing the situation..


----------



## hlomax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Max,
> 
> 
> Thanks. Welcome to the forum and thread. LOL, an entire day? Pretty funny. Good luck with the new house, February is almost upon us. I hear Powder Springs is booming. Is the new house on Powder Springs also?
> 
> 
> Bud





Hey there Bud,

Yes the new house is in Powder Springs.. and you are right the place is booming ..Had the Pre drywall walk through yesterday and now just needs to be signed off on by the the main builder and a few touch ups as far as the wiring and plumbing goes and then up with the drywall.. they tell me to expect to start thurs or friday of next week...

keeping the faith..

Max


----------



## chinadog

Here's a combination of the two designs that I'm thinking about. At least another option. It would have a flat front screen wall like the first design, allow the sub to be tucked under the corner of the screen and have the angles towards the screen wall. It'll cut the size of the stage some and bring the screen forward a little (does that make the screen look bigger?!?!?).


Any comments on this one?










Bud


----------



## hlomax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> 
> I think Jason plans on coming by Tuesday night when the Ascends arrive, you're welcome to come by as well. I should have the frame together and maybe even the screen wall done.
> 
> 
> Max, and as Ben puts it, you "north Atlanta HT geeks", you guys are welcome as well!
> 
> 
> Bud




Well have been doing some work on packing up the old house and getting ready for the move still debating where to do the extended stay or an apartment .. with the boys and dog.. looks like we may have to go the apt route.. especially because of his weight ( the dog that is ) .. extended stay is 45lbs and under .. and unfortunately black lab is 75 plus... well either way i have not been on the blog in a few days and i am sorry that i missed the invite to come out to your place. Sure would have taken you up on that .. would have loved to seen your progress in person. hopefully the invite will extend to a later date?.. Know you all had a good time and to hear those top notch speakers had to be a blast.. if you do it again please keep me in mind and i will be sure to check the blog on a daily basis.. Thanks

Oh and hey and what's going on to Ben and all the other "north Altanta HT geeks".


Go Steelers!!!!


and as always "Keep the Faith!!"

Max


----------



## chinadog

Max,


I'm sure we'll have another "meet" in the near future. The last was just an impromptu thing.


Tim,


Haven't left any feedback at this point, but definitely plan on it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Another question for you guys. Is there any issue with turning a downward firing sub sideways? This sub has two ports, although you can plug one. Does it matter if a side port faces forward? I could pick up about 4 more inches it I turned the sub 90 degrees so the front faces the wall.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

That shouldn't be a problem turning it 90 degrees, especially being a downfiring sub. Try it each way in a standard room (with furniture and carpet, etc) and see what the differences are.


----------



## sailor06

Bud - Great work on the theater - I sent you an private message - check it when you get the opportunity.


----------



## chinadog

Here is where I am with the screen wall now. I ran out of 2x4s and need to purchase some long screws, so thats where it ended today. Wanted to thank Sean(MaximAVS) and Tom (Snakehunter) for making me rethink the bump out to hide the sub.


Here's the first shot. I had to change the support and move it towards the inside, then resupport the whole frame. Also made some temporary shelves to hold the front channels. I pulled the wall out based on the original design, so the speakers will be hidden comletely now.










Here's a close up of the sub framing. The bottom angle 2x4 will actually be above the sub. The bottom will be open where it meets the stage so I can slide the sub in and out. I didn't have to turn it sideways either. I will have to build speakerl-like grills so I can get back behind the GOM.










Just to make sure my screen height/framing was correct I went ahead and put the screen together and mounted it. Looks like I'm good to go.










I will try and call Ascend to cancel my STF-1 order. Ben, looks like I won't need it.


Bud


----------



## SmX

Coming Along Nicely Bud. I can't wait to get my screen wall up like you. Seems like all the detail work never ends and you never see any major advances until it does end. Spending days to stain stuff, Seems like nothing is getting done over my place.



Couple Questions...


Don't you think the Side speakers might be a little to close to the walls? I'm not sure about that area but I always see people telling other people here that the main speakers are to close to the side walls. I think it has allot to do with Reflections and imaging.


Also, the Center channel being that Low to the ground, are the people in back going to hear it fine?


Reason I ask is because I ultimately wanted to do the Same speaker set up as you to avoid a Perforated screen. After consulting with BPape he informed me that the speaker placement I wanted to do was bad for Imaging. I was going to put my mains on each sides of my 10 foot wide screen in my 15 foot wide room which would of given me 2.5 feet of space on each side for my 14" wide speakers.


Ruben


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Hi Bud,


I had thought you had planned to put your center channel above the screen. I know with our HT rooms we have to make a lot of compromises, was this one of them? Did you run out of room above the screen?


D. Erskine has said if you cannot mount your center channel behind the screen then go above it. It is much more difficult for the human ear to localize the sound the higher it is and it will sound more like it is coming from the actors on the screen rather than below it. I'm not criticizing it, just curious. My last room had the ctr. channel below as well and it still sounded very good although sometimes it did sound like the voices weren't anchored to the actors.


I like how you worked out your sub location problem it looks great.


Rob


----------



## miltimj

Looks great so far, and is what I would have probably ultimately decided as well.







I'm also wondering about the center channel placement..


----------



## mmmkam

Bud,


Looks like its all working out pretty well. Can you post an updated schematic of your final screen wall design with dimensions for reference.


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys. Lots of questions. Let me address them in order.


Ruben,


Absolutely too close to the corners, but I don't have a lot of width. The only way to get more room in the corners is to go smaller on the screen. I also really wanted to go above the screen with the center channel as well, but again, just not enough room. I would have had to deal with the reflections off the soffit as well. I do plan on Linacoustic on the back wall, a few feet on the sides and in front of the screen as well as the soffits. I realize that the back row will suffer some, but I expect to be sitting in the front row.


Rob,


Yes, definitely a compromise. You also nailed it, out of room. It would have just been too tight. I also spent a lot of time thinking, tinkering and staring at the screen over the weekend and decided to take the crown around the whole room, where as before I was going to stop at the screen wall. I think it'll give me a more finished look. That's why you see the extra board up there to ensure I have a nailing surface for the crown. I'm pretty happy with the way I think the sub will come out. I was a little nervous about it until I saw where the screen ended up. I also had to rip out one of the top boards where the frame was boxed for the screen to give me just a little more height, so lost some more real estate there.


Tim,


I know, I know. I wanted it above, but I also wanted the screen exactly where it ended up AND I still got the sub I wanted. Like I said, I'm more of a video guy than and audio guy...


Mike,


I'll be happy to post a new drawing with dimensions once I finish up the last few things on it.


Bud


----------



## SmX

Well if it makes you feel any better, I definitely Vote for the Bigger Screen instead of the better speaker placement.










Right Now I have a 62" Toshiba DLP in my Family Room and when someone told me to do a 90" screen in the Dedicated theater because it was the national code recommended size, I thought, what's the point of building a whole dedicated theater with a 90" screen? I mind as well stick with my 62" toshiba.


Too many people here are worried about the rules of the 1.2 x width verses seating distance. It all comes down to what the individual likes in the end.


To me, this is all about that "Big Screen Experience" in your crib, Ya Dig?










Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


I dig. You try and do your best to follow the guidelines, but sometimes you have to stray for a variety of reasons, but mostly it comes down to room limitations, measurements and funding.


BTW, I have a 51" Hitachi in the family room and when I came up yesterday after watching the NFL playoffs some, I was like "Man, that TV looks so small". The screen is four times its size. Pretty amazing. That was my own "wow factor".










Bud


----------



## R-U-Q-R-U

Bud,


I have learned so much reading your thread. Thanks.


BTW do you ever sleep? You post at all hours


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


You framing job looks great!! You banged that up pretty quick after a redesign!










The sub fits nicely! I have one question. I'm not sure how you are covering your floor, or what you'll be finishing the front of the wall with, but do you need the 2x4 that is in front of the sub?! It seems like you could cut that segment out, and make for easier removal and replacement of the sub without having to lift it over that bottom plate!


I think the angles for the columns give some nice interest to them.


Sean


----------



## chinadog

R-U-Q-R-U,


Good! I'm glad. Thanks. I'm one of those 5-6 hour sleepers with maybe an extra hour on the weekends. Kids will do that to you. When you finally get the kids to bed is when you have some time to yourself and they're up at the crack of dawn ....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sean,


Actually, the angled piece you see won't be attached. It's there until I get my screws to put it together. That piece will reside on top, which will be supported by a vertical piece and there will be another angled piece from there to the screen wall. It'll be completely open on the bottom.


Planning on black GOM on the front wall. I'll have to build some speaker grill type covers to cover the sub areas and then again for the speakers. I think I may attempt to angle the wall slightly for the speakers as well, still need to think through that. It'll give it some visual interest versus a flat wall all the way across. I plan on black rug across the stage and still need to create a lip for it.


The redo wasn't bad really. It helps to have a sawsall, compound mitre and a framing nailer. I spent more time staring and thinking about it than actually doing it!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spent more time staring and thinking about it than actually doing it!
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I think we work the same way. I spend both Sat and Sunday working and got stuff done - but not as much as I had hoped. Since I have kids too, weekdays between 8PM and 10:30PM are my prime time to work on the HT. I feel like I'm on my own time while in the garage working and can run at my own speed. However, I think I'm really burned out on "Josh Tesh Radio".. it's the only station my $10 Walgreens radio will pickup. Maybe I need to get something better for the garage


----------



## chinadog

Can't say I blame you. I would've been burnt out in about 5 seconds with JT on the radio. Ugh!


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I plan on black rug across the stage and still need to create a lip for it. Bud



You probably already know this, but in case not, you can use a half round for the lip.


As far as what You and Swithey said about spending more time thinking and looking than building, I can definitely relate. Sometimes I spend hours in the room thinking up ideas. More time goes into thinking than actually building over here. that's for sure.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Actually, was looking for it at Home Depot. Need to take a ride over to their competitors to see if they have it. Thought about ripping some large dowels and even construction something from 1/4 rounds. I know they have at the trim place that was mentioned a few weeks ago, I may just wait until I get up there to get the stain grade stuff.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

They should have boards for the horizontal part ("run") of steps at any lumber shop.. Ask them about that, and see what they come up with..


----------



## chinadog

Took a half a day off today and finished the sub sections of the screen wall. I need one more 2x4 to finish out the proscenium because I cut one board short (56.5 versus 65.5... crap!). I also put linacoustic behind the screen wall and then ran out of time. I did pick up 5/4 lumber at HD today, so I can do around the baseboard, doors and up around ceiling for the crown. The cameras battery went dead, so I didn't get a full screenwall shot.


Left sub box:










Right sub box:










Here's my HD run. Anyone need nails? Got some for every registered AVSer.
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photo...00_0232-vi.jpg 


Bud


----------



## larryep

Bud


I started with 5lb drywall screw boxes. I quickly realized to get the 25lb pail.


Larry


----------



## miltimj

Yep, a huge price difference.. I've gone through several 25lb pails as well, for my remodeling.


The proscenium is looking great, Bud! I can't wait to see it with the GoM.


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys. Question. Since I need to build grills to cover the speakers and allow me access, I was thinking of using these Magnetic Grill Guides from Parts Express.











My only concern is if they'll affect the speakers. I actually ordered a set when I ordered something else. I was very impressed on the strength of these suckers. I mean I could not pull them apart with my fingers, I actually had to pry them apart with a knife. I also bought the Heavy Duty Grill Guides just in case.


What do you think?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Camera battery is recharged. Here's a shot of the screen wall now. Notice the left side proscenium isn't done yet because I need that 2x4.











Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


MAN!! That's looking fantastic my friend!!


You should have reaper bang you out an updated design with the new screen wall and some color choises, cause it's not far now!!


Sean


----------



## evvlwisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also bought the Heavy Duty Grill Guides just in case.
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> Bud




No experience with the magnets, but I used the heavy duty guides for my grills and they work well. I drilled a pilot hole through the grill and into my colums so I knew exactly where to drill the holes for the guides.


Your screen wall looks great. I like your solution for the sub placement, that bottom right corner of the screen wall would be perfect for another sub.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My only concern is if they'll have any ill affects on the speakers. I actually ordered a set when I ordered something else. I was very impressed on the strength of these suckers. I mean I could not pull them apart with my fingers, I actually had to pry them apart with a knife. I also bought the Heavy Duty Grill Guides just in case.
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud...my Klipsch Reference speakers have the magnetic grill guides rather than the plastic heavy duty ones like you also mentioned. I much prefer the magnetic ones. They just have a better feel to them and I can't imagine how they would affect the speakers negatively. My old speakers had the plastic ones and they became loose fitting over time. I'm going with the magnetic ones. Thanks for the link BTW, these were exactly what I was thinking of getting. I only wish I saw the link 2 days ago when I ordered my grill cloth from them.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Its coming along nicely (and slowly).


One reason I'm leaning towards the magnets is the furring strips. Where the furring strips on the wall meet the 2x4s for the proscenium, I'm going to lose an inch of the 2x4, which means I need to widen the 2x4 on the wall to have the necessary surface area for the grill guides. Now, if I end the furring strip an inch or so from the 2x4 on the side wall, I can staple the GOM on the side of the furring strip that faces the screen wall. It also allows me to "slip" the grill in between the furring strip and the proscenium without any obstruction. Like this:











Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I like the idea of the magnets too. -- go for it. I may do the same thing. Luckily, I have not made my Parts Express order yet. I wonder if they would be strong enough to hold fabric wall panels (assuming I had them in the corners and a few along the parameter). It sure would be easier than building french cleats to hold them on.. hmmm


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Buy a set, they're cheap. I'm amazed how strong these things are. I would think depending on how big the panels are and the material used, it should work. Worst cast you can use them to put your kids artwork on the fridge, although not sure you'd ever get them off.


Bud


----------



## Z06Racer

Not much to add. Just wanted to compliment you on your progress and thank you for your time put into educating us. Looks great.


----------



## chinadog

Z06Racer,


Thanks and welcome.


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

Those magnets look like a great solution. I might be able to use them for my removable panels. Do you think 8 of them would hold a GPowers' type fabric fram up that is 24"wide x 60" tall?


J-dubb


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J-dubb16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those magnets look like a great solution. I might be able to use them for my removable panels. Do you think 8 of them would hold a GPowers' type fabric fram up that is 24"wide x 60" tall?
> 
> 
> J-dubb



Not sure, I guess it depends on what you make them out off. I'll have to prototype something and try it I guess. They are cheap though, so you could try it and worse case you lose 5 bucks. I probably won't get to mine for a week or two. I'll post my results.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Damn Bud, are you for hire!... You are kicking a.. my friend. A true inspiration to us all.


Drew


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Hi Bud,


I have been looking for something just like that for my speaker covers as well. Looks like just what I need, I wanted something that doesn't require alot of depth. I will be interested to see how they work out.


Keep up the good work. I finally started my own thread and I will slowly catch up on it to where I am now....only a 1 1/2 years later.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Drew. Hopefully I can get the furring strips and Linacoustic up this weekend. I've been neglecting to measure the rooms for molding, but will also do that this weekend and get it ordered on Monday.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Rob,


Thanks and glad the magnetics will work out for you. Don't worry about how long it takes, it'll be done before you know it. I tell ya, I'll be bored silly when its all said and done.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Camera battery is recharged. Here's a shot of the screen wall now. Notice the left side proscenium isn't done yet because I need that 2x4.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




droool...That screen looks SAWEEEET! Excellent job on the proscenium. Even if it is not done yet, that is a perfect replication of the drawing. Fantastic work as always.









Jason


----------



## suffolk112000

Bud,


I have not seen your thread in a while.

Great work. I bet you can almost taste it at this point.









I have a question. Perhaps this has been discussed already, but are you going to leave the proscenium open and just cover it with fabric or are you going to go the traditional route and use MDF then cover MDF with fabric?


Craig


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


I was wondering how you like the combination of Ascend 340s for LCR and the Sonance Symphony's for surrounds? I've been looking at the Ascends and was initially thinking the 340s for LCR and (4) of their 170s for surrounds, but my particular problem was mounting the surrounds on the surface won't work in my theater. I have a room similar in size to yours and started to look and in-walls for the side surrounds (maybe in a column) and in-ceilings for the rear surrounds.


I was hoping not to have to make any holes in the ceiling for this project but I guess I could build MDF boxes and seal them the best I can for the rears.


matching speaker characteristics is always a challenge when mixing brands so I'd be curious to get your feedback on Ascends with the Sonances.


BTW, what sub are you using? As you know Ascend sells the HSU subs but I'm not sure what they are like since I've never auditioned one.


thanks.


Billmac


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Thanks. The next hold up is going to be GOM and flooring decisions, so yeah, I can taste it.


I plan on leaving it open and covering with fabric only, no MDF, at least at this point. I think if I had the room and were able to separate the proscenium from the screen wall, I might have gone that way. At this point, not sure its required, unless there is something I don't know.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> Thanks. The next hold up is going to be GOM and flooring decisions, so yeah, I can taste it.
> 
> 
> I plan on leaving it open and covering with fabric only, no MDF, at least at this point. I think if I had the room and were able to separate the proscenium from the screen wall, I might have gone that way. At this point, not sure its required, unless there is something I don't know.
> 
> 
> Bud



I would just cover the proscenium with GOM.

I basically framed my proscenium with 2x4's and then covered it with fabric.

One thing I noticed with this type of construction is the fact that I can really FEEL the bass. I have the SVS Ultra/2. If I had framed the proscenium, then finished it with MDF and then treated it, and buried the sub behind all of that MDF I don't think bass would feel near as powerful.


If you have not yet decided, my vote is to cover the proscenium with GOM only.


Craig


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I was wondering how you like the combination of Ascend 340s for LCR and the Sonance Symphony's for surrounds? I've been looking at the Ascends and was initially thinking the 340s for LCR and (4) of their 170s for surrounds, but my particular problem was mounting the surrounds on the surface won't work in my theater. I have a room similar in size to yours and started to look and in-walls for the side surrounds (maybe in a column) and in-ceilings for the rear surrounds.
> 
> 
> I was hoping not to have to make any holes in the ceiling for this project but I guess I could build MDF boxes and seal them the best I can for the rears.
> 
> 
> matching speaker characteristics is always a challenge when mixing brands so I'd be curious to get your feedback on Ascends with the Sonances.
> 
> 
> BTW, what sub are you using? As you know Ascend sells the HSU subs but I'm not sure what they are like since I've never auditioned one.
> 
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> Billmac




Bill,


Loving the speaker setup. I have not had any issues with the Sonance in-ceilings. When researching, I actually asked over on the Ascend site and the Ascend folks that this particular model (Symphony S622TR) would match. You can buy new install boxes for them as well, but you might have to contact an authorized dealer.


On the sub, I ended up going with the Hsu VTF-2 MK2. It's great, can really shake the room and is a great bang for the buck. Highly recommended. A great bang for your buck.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suffolk112000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you have not yet decided, my vote is to cover the proscenium with GOM only.
> 
> 
> Craig



That's definately the way I was leaning until I saw your post about the MDF, then I got nervous!










I'll probably order the black GOM soon and get at least that done until until I figure out the other stuff.


Bud


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Bud, I'm with you on leaving the proscenium open. Mine is built similar to yours. All open studs, no MDF and getting close to GOM time.


My Reasons:


Save money and easier to tame acoustics. Less MDF needed and less Linacoustic. If you have all those reflective areas of MDF then they will need to be treated (both sides). This adds to too many variables for me. This way I just treat it like a big open room without all the added reflective MDF surfaces to worry about.


Rob


----------



## GPowers

I have a hybrid front wall. The center section, where the screen is is not covered with MDF. The two wing walls for the speakers are covered with MDF.


A few week ago a rattle developed on the right side when loud base (LFE) section played. I had to pull off all the GOM and add wood screws every two inches. For now the problem is gone. I tested it whit the same DVD.


So my vote is to skip the MDF, but make sure you paint the studs so you do not see them through the GOM.


----------



## chinadog

Rob,


I agree and I think this is the way to go. Besides, I really didn't plan for MDF, so I'd have to make changes to accommodate it and at least look correct.


Greg,


Definitely will paint. I will hopefully have that done in the next week or so.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Looks like its all working out pretty well. Can you post an updated schematic of your final screen wall design with dimensions for reference.



Mike,


This what you're looking for? Let me know if you have any questions.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

I spent most of yesterday working in the HT room.


First thing I did was stuff my cove with insulation. I was going to use a piece of 3/4 plywood I had and cut 6 inch widths to cap off the top, then thought that was nuts, so I'm going to return the ply and buy 1x6s. They'll be a little narrow, but will work. I finished up the proscenium on the left side. Here's the last shot I'll take before I paint the lumber black.










I spent some time putting up furring strips around the doors, floor and building my boxes around the switches, outlets and return. I also decided instead of going vertical with the GOM to go horizontal, but I don't want a chair rail. I ripped some 5/4 lumber in half to give me something to staple the material to, then beveled it at all 45 degrees on thee table saw. I'll put the two bevels together to give me a nice V groove and a finished look horizontally around the room. I used liquid nails, and brads to hold it in place, then went around with a decking screws to secure it. Shot of the bottom half of the V groove:










With the help of my father-in-law, we put up the bottom furring strips around the whole room, then installed the Linacoustic below. The grove will be at 40" around the room, except for the riser, which is at about 32". The pieces of Linacoustic that we removed lengthwise I installed above where the second board will be installed. I left myself enough room for two pieces of GOM and the width of the top furring strip. I used 3M spray adhesive to put attach the Linacoustic to the drywall and used the nails so it doesn't sag over time. The GOM will hold it in place anyway, so its probably overkill. Here are a few shots of the Linacoustic around the room:



























Still need to do the furring strips on the corners for the crown as well as frame out my cans and speakers on the ceiling. Once I get that down, I can install the Linacoustic around the soffit. I may not have enough though!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Does this mean adults in the back, kids on the floor for some Impromptu movie watching? Should have never hooked up that projector







I haven't even bought mine yet. I'm trying to wait until the last possible second to make the purchase



















Steve


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


That's pretty much it, although it hasn't really slowed me down any. Color choice and rug will be the thing that keeps me at bay.


Bud


----------



## BFauska

Those chairs may help explain why the projector being hooked up has not slowed progress. Now if Bud had put in the theater seating, then progress may have slowed quite a bit. Lucky for us thread followers that Bud has a good work ethic (even more lucky for his family and friends who will get to enjoy the fruits of his labor soon.)


Looking great Bud, I think your screen wall solution is going to be much more interesting visually than a flat wall would have been, or two little wing walls.


Later,

Brian


----------



## SmX

I'm jealous!

Your moving at the speed of light. Looking Awesome!


Ruben


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm trying to wait until the last possible second to make the purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve



That's what I did. The way projector prices are dropping nowadays, your better Off waiting to your room gets finished. I was lucky enough to catch the PJ I wanted on eBay for a huge discount. The PJ is still going for $1k more than what I paid for it.


Ruben


----------



## mmmkam

Thanks for the measurements Bud. Looks like its really taking shape!


So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?


----------



## Milt99

Bud,

Looking good man!

The conventional wisdom seems to be not to get the pj until the theater is done but to my thinking,

how do you know _exactly_ how to build the screenwall until you've mounted\\aimed the projector and bought the screen?


To me it seems that you'd have to have both in order be able to figure out the best way to mount the frame to the

screenwall and where to frame-in the opening for the screen.


----------



## uxbridge

Bud:


What is the screen width to front row ratio now with the bigger screen?


Bil


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Hey Bud,


Looking great so far, you made a lot of progress the last few days.


I am just curious how your room sounds so far with all the Linacoustic up? I realize you still need to install carpet, seats etc. I am just concerned that once you have everything loaded into the room you may find it a little too dead when you're finished. I am no expert but that looks like alot of Linacoustic going in there.


In my first room I did Linacoustic on the lower 3' of the walls and batting on the upper. I also had wood columns untreated in the room to break it up a bit and it sounded great although it was a little too dead. It was a bit weak in the high end and didn't sound as good as it could have with music.


This time around I will be tuning the room and I expect that even in a larger room I will use less Linacoustic but place it a little more strategically.


Just my opinion and I'm sure it will sound great either way. Maybe one of the local acoustics experts will shoot me down but that is my experience (I'm no expert). Better to have it a little to dead than an echo chamber though.










By the way it starts to sound a little eery in there with all that Linacoustic up at night doesn't it?










Rob


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?



ROFLMAO!!! Those are the new 79 series.


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob_McArthur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This time around I will be tuning the room and I expect that even in a larger room I will use less Linacoustic but place it a little more strategically.
> 
> Rob



That's what we did, But instead of using LinAcoustic all over the room like everyone pretty much does here, we did 2" Cotton and 1" & 2" 703 strategically placed at the Reflection points. Also some of It got paper faced and others remained open faced. We also treated the reflection points on the ceiling, which gets highly overlooked around here. We used 3.5" Cotton for the front Wall and 6" Cotton Triangles Stacked in the Front corners to absorb Bass.


I think it is worth the few extra bucks to hire a consultant like BPape that knows what he's doing to predetermine speaker and treatment placement. Allot of guys have great systems here but their room is not treated properly. It's that extra security of knowing that all your hard work will pay off acoustically and aesthetically IMO.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BFauska* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those chairs may help explain why the projector being hooked up has not slowed progress. Now if Bud had put in the theater seating, then progress may have slowed quite a bit. Lucky for us thread followers that Bud has a good work ethic (even more lucky for his family and friends who will get to enjoy the fruits of his labor soon.)
> 
> 
> Looking great Bud, I think your screen wall solution is going to be much more interesting visually than a flat wall would have been, or two little wing walls.
> 
> 
> Later,
> 
> Brian



Brian,


Thanks, the screen wall is definitely a little different than most. I'm happy with the result. The "real" berks will be the last thing I get, thats for sure. You need to give folks a teaser to keep their spirits up and to show that there is an end in site. Another argument for getting the projector up a little earlier.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?



Its the outdoor signature collection, waterproof power recliners and cedar match. No damn cup holders though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Looking good man!
> 
> The conventional wisdom seems to be not to get the pj until the theater is done but to my thinking,
> 
> how do you know _exactly_ how to build the screenwall until you've mounted\\aimed the projector and bought the screen?
> 
> 
> To me it seems that you'd have to have both in order be able to figure out the best way to mount the frame to the screenwall and where to frame-in the opening for the screen.



I don't like to run with the herd. I absolutely agree that you need to buy and mount it to get at least confirmation that where you'll mount it will work. In my case, I struggled with placement until decided on the AE900. Placement for the Mits would have been completely different. Now, I understand you could go have gone solely on published specs and sure that would have worked. But would you want get to the very end (in my case GOM under the soffit, projector box) and find out the placement doesn't work?


The argument that "once its up you never finish" is flawed!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I did. The way projector prices are dropping nowadays, your better Off waiting to your room gets finished. I was lucky enough to catch the PJ I wanted on eBay for a huge discount. The PJ is still going for $1k more than what I paid for it.
> 
> 
> Ruben



I agree to that to an extent due to price drops, see the above post. I think though when you're close enough out, you need to get it. Sure, you might save a 100.00 bucks if you wait a month or two (depending on what time of the year you plan on purchasing), but at least its piece of mind. I also waited until after CEDIA since rumor had it the new Panasonic model was coming out. Glad I did. I'd do the same if it was August.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uxbridge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud:
> 
> 
> What is the screen width to front row ratio now with the bigger screen?
> 
> 
> Bil



Isn't the ratio concerned with diagonal and not actual width? Either way its a guideline. The front row is at about 11 feet, so if you use 132/104 its only 1.27:1. If you're correct on screen width, its 132/90 which is 1:46:1. I've been sitting in the "new Berks", but have occasionally moved forward to just get a different perspective and am still happy with the new screen size.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob_McArthur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> I am just curious how your room sounds so far with all the Linacoustic up? I realize you still need to install carpet, seats etc. I am just concerned that once you have everything loaded into the room you may find it a little too dead when you're finished. I am no expert but that looks like alot of Linacoustic going in there.



Actually, its sounds great to my untrained ear. First thing I noticed was vocals from the center channel, much cleaner than before. I guess the reflections have been cut down quite a bit. I'm not an audio person. My father-in-law said it made a huge difference. They had "The Patriot" on HD the other day and he came in to watch it.


I actually went by the typical installations I've read here. The whole front wall and three feet out, 48 inches on the sides and the back wall (bumped up because of the riser). It actually may look like more since I broke it up to accommodate the seam in the GOM. Still need to do the soffits though.



> Quote:
> Just my opinion and I'm sure it will sound great either way. Maybe one of the local acoustics experts will shoot me down but that is my experience (I'm no expert). Better to have it a little to dead than an echo chamber though.



As you and Sandman suggested, it may be wise to have an expert chime in, especially while the GOM is down, huh? Another argument for setting the equipment up before you're finished.


Bud


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?


Billmac


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Bud,
> 
> 
> What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?
> 
> 
> Billmac




And what is the distance from the screen that pixelation is no longer visible? Of course, that assumes there is _some_ pixelation close up.










(You may not remember...I was planning on the ae700 a while back...But in my mind, I've already upgraded.







)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?
> 
> 
> Billmac



It's just over 13 feet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And what is the distance from the screen that pixelation is no longer visible? Of course, that assumes there is _some_ pixelation close up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (You may not remember...I was planning on the ae700 a while back...But in my mind, I've already upgraded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I see screen door (when looking for it) at about 4 feet or less. I pointed it out to my father-in-law the other day. I described what it was then let him try and find it, I had to point it out. Maybe I didn't describe it well and he didn't know what he was looking for, but we were pretty close when we saw it. I backed off from there to see how far I could still see it from and as I recall, it was about 4 feet. Your actual results may vary.







I haven't specifically looked for pixelation, but sure I would have noticed it if it had been a problem.


Bud


----------



## sportrac

Bud, your Theater is really looking nice.


William


----------



## jandawil

Hey Bud,


Very nice progress!!! I can't wait to build my stage and screen wall. Should be another week or two as I still have the dreaded task of tape and mud over drywall. I'll see if I can lure my friends with promises of Newcastle and Killians







That would work for me. What is your overall impressions of the Panny now that it's up and you have your screen??? I may order it today now that they are having their "Winter Sports" promo.


----------



## chinadog

Sportrac,


Thanks. It's getting there...


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jon,


Thanks. If beer doesn't work, throw in a pizza. Just make sure its after the work gets done. Tape and mud aren't bad, just be patient. Less mud, more coats is better than the other way around.


On the AE900. It's great. HDTV is just remarkable. DVDs are sweet as well. Money well spent. The Carada screen adds some brightness as well.


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jon,
> 
> 
> Thanks. If beer doesn't work, throw in a pizza. Just make sure its after the work gets done. Tape and mud aren't bad, just be patient. Less mud, more coats is better than the other way around.
> 
> 
> On the AE900. It's great. HDTV is just remarkable. DVDs are sweet as well. Money well spent. The Carada screen adds some brightness as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Glad to hear it!! I know with all the effort you've put into that room you wouldn't settle on an average projector. I'm ordering it this week for sure. I just hate to have it and not be able to use it, but I guess I can live with that. I'll take your advise on the mud. I'm doing a Goo screen which I've heard great things. Keep up the good work man.


Jon


----------



## chinadog

Mick Jagger I'm not.


Had a couple of hours yesterday so I pulled off the screen/speakers and painted the screen wall. After putting everything back together and firing the projector up, all you can see now is the screen (except for the white outlets and RG6). When the GOM goes up, it should be completely hidden. You can't even see the speakers in this shot.











Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As you and Sandman suggested, it may be wise to have an expert chime in, especially while the GOM is down, huh? Another argument for setting the equipment up before you're finished.
> 
> Bud



Email or PM BPape. He can set up the whole room for you in no time and tell you where and where not to put treatments based on your speaker placement. He does a bunch of cool graphs showing reflections based on your speaker Specs, room size, Etc. I really think its going to be worth it for You, especially if you want to get the best sound those speakers provide.


Ruben


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud..


That screen wall looks DY-NO-MITE!!


Looks like finishing touches left!!!



Sean


----------



## Mark P

Bud,

You have the same problem I have, cant hold a camera perfectly straight. I have even tried tripods and what I see in the viewfinder looks good and the final pics of screens and such always make it look like I build more crooked than I really do.


Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> You have the same problem I have, cant hold a camera perfectly straight. I have even tried tripods and what I see in the viewfinder looks good and the final pics of screens and such always make it look like I build more crooked than I really do.
> 
> 
> Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other



I had the same problem, with the tripod up against the wall and the low lighting it is hard to get a good level shot. So I got out my torpedo level and made sure the camera was level. Now most of my shots a pretty level.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud..
> 
> 
> That screen wall looks DY-NO-MITE!!
> 
> 
> Looks like finishing touches left!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Sean



Thanks, Sean. You've been watching JJ Walker and Good Times in your HT again, haven't you?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other



Actually, one of my ears is bigger than the other, so it makes my head tilt a little....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


Love the tripod idea. I could just clamp a torpedo level onto the bottom of the camera. Nah.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I ordered paint grade trim for the basement this morning (minus the HT and concession rooms, which I'll get later and get stain grade) through my neighbor. He said he'd have it here today, although not sure I'd be able to do anything for a few days anyway. I calculated that I needed about 450 feet of crown and 150 feet of base molding. This includes an extra 10%. Not looking forward to seeing this bill...


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


But just think how purdy it's going to be!


----------



## bpape

Bud,


Did you get my PM?


Bryan


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, once of my ears is bigger than the other, so it makes my head tilt a little....
> 
> 
> Bud




LOL!!!


----------



## chinadog

Bryan,


I did, but ran into to some work related things. I'll respond to you shortly. Thanks!


Bud


----------



## bpape

No problem Bud - just verifying. Whenever you get time.


Bryan


----------



## chinadog

Bryan,


Just replied! Check your PM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, my father-in-law and I just carried all the base and crown molding down to the basement. Talk about quick delivery. At least I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... Watching movies and the Superbowl!


.

.

.

.

.

.

I just threw that in there for you followers of the "He Who Hang Projector, Never Get Off Buttocks" fortune cookie believers!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> But just think how purdy it's going to be!



Assuming I don't get frustrated hanging crown and burn it all, yes, it'll be pretty.










Bud


----------



## larryep

so that s what you call it as I read this on the projector in the unfinished theater. At least now I can tell my Doc what it is.










in the past i would just tell him i don't why i can't get anything done, I just can't get anything done, what is my problem!


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Must have just been practice for the day you started your build. We'll need to start a support group called "Projector Hangers Anonymous". We can meet on Thursday nights, put our chairs in a circle and talk about the movies and sporting events watched that have held up our progress!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Assuming I don't get frustrated hanging crown and burn it all, yes, it'll be pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Oh man can I relate to this.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry,
> 
> 
> Must have just been practice for the day you started your build. We'll need to start a support group called "Projector Hangers Anonymous". We can meet on Thursday nights, put our chairs in a circle and talk about the movies and sporting events watched that have held up our progress!
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL


----------



## chinadog

Got most of my base molding up today in the non-HT areas, except the bathroom. Went down during lunch and it took no time at all. Need to tile and get the vanity in. Tile's been pushed out some, although all the valves are done for the supplies. I'm hoping to start the crown on Saturday.


Bud


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


Any thoughts of adding a second HSU sub on the other side of the stage?


Just Curious as I look at your config, mine may be similar but I was thinking two subs.


Billmac


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


Had some thoughts and its wired for it, but so far I don't think I need it. The sub really puts out. I'd advise starting wiring multiple locations and adding it if you think one won't cut it. Are you looking at the Hsu VTF-2 or VTF-3? I think if I had downsized (hate that word for obvious reasons) to the Hsu STF-1 due to sizing limitations, I probably would have gone with two, again, if required.


Bud


----------



## bmackrell

I was initially looking at the VTF-3 but the VTF-2 looks pretty capable for the size room I have. I guess you got me thinking that the VTF-2 was enough since our rooms are about the same size.


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


I'm no audio expert. Both have great reviews. I went by the system advisor on the Ascend site from a volume perspective for the sub. Here is what they recommend:

*STF-1: For small rooms 
STF-2: For medium sized rooms 
VTF-2: Medium sized rooms, enhanced performance

STF-3: Large rooms > 3000 cu ft.

VTF-3: Top of the line, best performance larger rooms*

If I calculate my volume based on a rounded 12x19x9, that gives me 2052 cubic feet. I interpreted the info above as a "medium" sized room, although a very small "medium" room. I didn't see any reference to volume on the Hsu site.


The VTF-3 goes down to 20 Hz. The VTF-2 goes to 25 Hz. 5 Hz won't matter to me and I'd hate to lug the VTF-3 downstairs or pay for the extra 200.00 and extra shipping for that matter since the VTF-3 weighs 80 lbs and the VTF-2 weighs 57 lbs. That's me though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Installed the theater room door today. Didn't plan on it, but figured in order to get the rest of the base molding up outside the theater room, I needed to install the door. Ran to Big Orange today and got extra shims and more 5/4 for around the ceiling for the crown. I plan on installing that tomorrow and may put the two remaining doors on. I also need to take a road trip up to the moulding place and get my stain grade casing, base and crown. I just need to get some casing tomorrow to finish up the door. I'll have to take the door off before I paint AND stain that casing while on the wall. A small trade off for getting the other piece done. Actually, I may just put the casing up temporarily for some measurements for the base, then take it down.


Some pictures tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Did you take the last few days off to work on the HT? Sounds like you did. I'm talking off tomorrow to do the same thing


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Nope. My father-in-law is here and is extremely handy. I set the direction and he runs with stuff. Unfortunately he leaves either Sunday or Monday. I spent an hour with him at 8:00 AM and ran to HD during lunch. I also have the benefit of working at home. I'm currently on a weekly call with some folks from Australia! I'm also logged on around 6:30 working. Sometimes I can do small things here or there as long as I'm not ont he phone.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Nope. My father-in-law is here and is extremely handy.
> 
> 
> Bud



My Dad lives in town and helps me out from time to time. I think he's enjoying his "retirement" time too much. I know he will be one of the 1st to watch a movie in my HT, though










My job is relatively flexible also -- but I work in an office 30 minutes from the house. It must be hard to work on the phone when you know there is more to do on the HT 50 steps away!!


----------



## chinadog

One solid pine door installed for the theater entrance. Outside shot. No casing obviously.










Inside shot. Still need to extend the jamb by an inch. I could have sworn that when I ordered the door to have them extend the jamb the extra inch for the furring strips. I checked the paper work again and it shows 6 9/16. I'll make it work.










Here's my invetory for stuff I've got to do. On the far left, I have furring strips along the ceiling for the crown. Next is the remaining paint grade base molding. You can see some installed on the right wall. In the middle there is the 450+ feet of paint grade crown molding. On the right is some miscellaneous stuff, including pieces of 1/4 round (HD didn't have half round) to build up my lip on my step and riser and drywall corner edges to clean up the edges of the trey prior to GOM.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ran up to Mouldings Unlimited today to get my stain grade casing. I ended up buying the crown and base molding as well. Saved me a second trip. I bought everything in yellow pine to match the doors. Excellent selection and very reasonable. It was actually cheaper (stain grade quality) than Home Depot (paint grade). It's about 18 miles from my house. Took a picture, but came out way too blurry to post.


Thanks to Mike McDaniel and Ben Harper for recommending them!


Bud


----------



## SmX

Your just trucking along Bud.

I keep coming back here worrying I'm gonna see your theater done before mine.


It seems like I spend too much time with all the little details and planning. Still no screen wall set up in my place because I'm still looking for a screen solution. Tonight I am mounting the PJ in the theater to start testing sizes and adjustments in the room to decide on a final screen aspect.


If you get done before me, hopefully you come down and help the Sandman finish up










Keep up the good work!


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


Man, I had a good chuckle just then. My build out is just a "tad" less complicated than yours! I'm down to two colors of GOM (not including the black) and have no carpet picked out. You're way ahead of me there. Your screen wall will go up in a few hours once you make a decision on ratio. I've got the rest of the basement to put crown up and prime and paint as well. Of yeah, a bathroom to tile as well. Too many side jobs! I've got trim to stain for the HT room to put up. You'll be done before me, I'm sure.


You've come too far to give in on the last few details... whatever you decide, it'll be nothing less than amazing!


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud - - you forgot to try to bait Ruben into coming up and helping you finished up if he beats you.


----------



## dell4200gambler

Bud,


Love this thread, doing a heckuva job. Question for you on your projector choice. I just pulled the trigger on the pt-900au which appears to be what you went with. Mine shipped yesterday and I started doing a little more reading on it today. Much to my dismay, it seems to be designed such that the ideal mounting point is the lens centered vertically with the screen whereas it seems the majority of projectors typically want the lens near the top or bottom of the screen, depending on projector orientation. This means that you are using a buttload of lens shift when ceiling mounting this puppy. I can't ascertain how much above your screen the projector sits but from looking through your pictures it certainly appears to be slightly above the screen (if you could share the numbers I'd greatly appreciate it). I assume that means you are using quite a bit of the lens shift. I read in a couple of threads that when using the lens shift to an extreme it will introduce some bending' of the bottom portion of the screen. I'm curious if your installation exhibits this behavior. Thanks in advance for any info!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dell4200gambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Much to my dismay, it seems to be designed such that the ideal mounting point is the lens centered vertically with the screen whereas it seems the majority of projectors typically want the lens near the top or bottom of the screen, depending on projector orientation. This means that you are using a buttload of lens shift when ceiling mounting this puppy.



If you take a look at page 21 of the AE900 manual , in the bottom right corner of the grey box it states that the maximum picture quality is centered horizontally and vertically. If you can achieve that position, that's great, but most people can't I would think. I think you have to consider the distance to the screen, which will increase or decrease the offset and the picture postion vertically. The projector is mounted at 13 feet from the screen. One of the selling points for me with this projector with the flexibility of the mount. The projector is basically centered horizontally, I have to adjust the mount a little bit when I do the final mount. The picture is definitely adjusted down vertically, but not completely to the bottom. Someone asked this before and I actually raised the final screen position up another 4-5 inches for viewing preferences.


> Quote:
> I can't ascertain how much above your screen the projector sits but from looking through your pictures it certainly appears to be slightly above the screen (if you could share the numbers I'd greatly appreciate it). I assume that means you are using quite a bit of the lens shift. I read in a couple of threads that when using the lens shift to an extreme it will introduce some bending' of the bottom portion of the screen. I'm curious if your installation exhibits this behavior. Thanks in advance for any info!



I have not seen any bending of the screen at all. Keystoning gets introduced when the projector is tilted, but can be adjusted, although if you can avoid any tilting of the projector, you won't need to worry about it. I have not had to worry about keystoning.


Overall, I'm very happy with the quality of the picture and the setup. Hope this helps.


Bud


----------



## dell4200gambler

Thanks for the info Bud! Looks like I might not have to send it back as soon as it arrives. I'll be hanging about 13' back as well but haven't nailed down my screen height yet. Do you know roughly what the height of the projector lens is compared to the height of the top of the screen?


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


Although I wired for the Sanyo PLV-Z4 I have considered the Panasonic AE900. Were you considering this choice as well? Why did you eventually go with the Panasonic?


I'm considering the Panasonic because of the better picture at closer range (as I will probably build the screen out a little more than initially planned) and the better deinterlacing capabilities for standard def inputs (although I hope to keep this to a minimum).


Here's a good review of the 2 you probably have seen:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/ae900_plvz4.htm 


Interested in your thoughts.


Dave


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dell4200gambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info Bud! Looks like I might not have to send it back as soon as it arrives. I'll be hanging about 13' back as well but haven't nailed down my screen height yet. Do you know roughly what the height of the projector lens is compared to the height of the top of the screen?



The height to the top of the projector mounted is about 3 inches with this new mount. The top of the viewining area of the screen is about 13 inches.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GranTheaterO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> Although I wired for the Sanyo PLV-Z4 I have considered the Panasonic AE900. Were you considering this choice as well? Why did you eventually go with the Panasonic?
> 
> 
> I'm considering the Panasonic because of the better picture at closer range (as I will probably build the screen out a little more than initially planned) and the better deinterlacing capabilities for standard def inputs (although I hope to keep this to a minimum).
> 
> 
> Here's a good review of the 2 you probably have seen:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/ae900_plvz4.htm
> 
> 
> Interested in your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Dave



Hey Dave,


Been watching your thread!


I was looking at the Z4 and thes Mits 3000 as well. I eventually discounted the Mits and was leaning on the Z4 for some time. On reason I discounted the AE900 initially was because of the lamp life of the AE700. I've read all the reviews and comparisons. The Z4 is probably a little sharper, but needs more calibration out of the box (so I've read). The AE900 comes out of the box looking much better, but with some work the Z4 is just as nice or some would say better. I did not compare the two side by side, but after reading another comparison somewhere, it convinced me that the AE900 would be a better fit for me personally. I'll see if I can find the article somewhere. Regardless, I'm happy with it. I'm sure if I went the Z4 route, it would have worked out fine as well.


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


Good thoughts. Hopefully I'll have to make that decision in the next month. Probably deserves some more research.


Keep up the good work, I regularly watch your thread and I'm getting some inspiration especially around your proscenium and acoustical treatments. I'm in a little over my head but treading water at this point.


Thanks,


Dave


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


If you go with the AE900, keep an eye on the rebate, it's up to 400.00 plus the Blockbuster stuff. Take advantage while you can!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's an update and a few photos. I didn't get to the crown this weekend, I didn't have any of my sidekicks available to hold up the crown. Working on that for this week, may take a day or two off to do some work.


I did do a few things though. I worked on the top of my cove on Saturday. I used 1x6s instead of ripping plywood. Much easier. There were two things I wanted to point out here, neither of which I have in the picture below. First, I left a section of 1x6 unattached so I could get to the IR receiver mounted in the cove. Second, I used 2" brads to put the boards in place. I probably should have done this a while ago because it was tight getting a brad nailer in there to secure it. I had to angle the brads and I had to go back later with a small hammer and nail the heads in flush. Also, I left a few marks/indents on the ceiling with the nail gun, so I'll need to touch that up. Looks like my PC staple gun I bought off ebay will work a little better for the GOM when I get to that. I'd hate to have to touch up the ceiling after the GOMs up. I still need to buy the tracks for the rope light, will do that in the near future.










I also worked the lip of the stage. I wanted to get that done a while back to get it out of the way, but never got to it. Here is a shot of the stage now. I actually used a 3/4" x 1 1/2" spacer and two quarter rounds to build it out. I used 2" brads and construction adhesive to secure it. It's enough to create the lip for the rug when its installed. For the rounded portion, I used that plastic moulding in both a 3/4" width and plastic moulding quarters rounds.










For my five 4" cans that are in the soffit, I had to build frames from two 1/2" pieces of plywood to staple the GOM onto. Ten squares with ten holes. Fun stuff. These are attached via brads and construction adhesive above the stage.










Sunday morning I installed some casing on the outside of the HT room door so I could finish up the base molding. Probably should have waited and stained the casing prior to installing, but wanted to finished that base molding. I also installed the base molding in the closet next to the bar.










Here's what I'm planning on trimming out the lip of my riser with. It's got a bullnosed edge and I'll attached it with construction adhesive and finishing nails after I stain it. Hard to see in the picture, but it's about 3 1/2 inches wide and the rug/pad should go right up the the edge. I got this idea from BuffBakerGA and it adds a nice touch. Some good shots of his beautiful work in the "Show your Before and After pics..." thread .










You guys have seen these before, but here is the signage on the way down to the HT room and basement.










Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good Bud.


----------



## swithey

Can't wait to see how the stain looks on that Pine door


----------



## HeyNow^

Whoo Hoo, Bud. Keep it up, you are in the home stretch now! If I'm on travel your way, I'll help you hang some crown. [Upsidedownbackwardscompoundmitre]


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


Also, just a FYI, I'm working with Bryan (bpape) on some analysis work to finalize some of the treatments in the room. I'll probably make some modifications to the amount of Linacoustic and its placement and may be adding some other type of treatments. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## vbellino

Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vbellino* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?



Well, thank you. I'm glad its been beneficial.


I have a layout of the basement, but not complete with dimensions. I have recently taken some measurements though to order my trim, so I can transpose those numbers onto the layout. I'll work on that this week.


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, thank you. I'm glad its been beneficial.
> 
> 
> I have a layout of the basement, but not complete with dimensions. I have recently taken some measurements though to order my trim, so I can transpose those numbers onto the layout. I'll work on that this week.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud, You may need to return your screen. I found a material you can use and put your speakers behind the Screen and save you a fortune. Plus you can do a wider screen now if you wanted too.


Check my thread out.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Hey Ruben,


Saw your screen material last night in your thread. Looks great. I'm not nearly in as much as you on the screen, but it is a nice alternative to think about. Based on how you got it, are you planning on becomming a reseller of the material now???


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Ruben,
> 
> 
> Saw your screen material last night in your thread. Looks great. I'm not nearly in as much as you on the screen, but it is a nice alternative to think about. Based on how you got it, are you planning on becomming a reseller of the material now???
> 
> 
> Bud



Nah, I posted all the info everyone needs to buy it themselves.


Its not a great lower cost alternative to the leading screen companies weaved screens, it's a better performing material in general.


Ruben


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


You're still making good progress my man! Instead of typing, I should be working on mine!







Two week long trips and playing mom and dad this week makes it tough.


Quick question about the screen wall framing, did you just use normal spray paint to paint it black? If I missed that, sorry.


BTW, I just order 100 RSIC clips from bpape and he told me he's helping you out on the treatments. I'm very interested in that so please share what you can. I've also chatted with him about doing the same for me if I ever get there.


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Get those SEs fired up yet? Can surely relate to the "distractions". Baseball season is right around the corner again, so my Saturdays will have other priorities. Hey, that's what its all about, right?


I did use regular spray paint, something flat from HD. You could apply by brush, but not worth the time. By the time you get up the GOM, it won't make any difference.


Talked to Bryan today, we're still working on a few things to manage the lower frequencies. I'm no acoustical engineer, so for those folks that are doing builds who want to ensure their rooms are treated correctly, you should consult with someone. Bryan and I are discussing some changes that'll help on top of the Linacoustic. There are a few things that I might have done differently (like the soffits as bass traps) as well if I had cobtacted someone like Bryan early on during the planning/design/framing stage. I'll post the changes once we've figured out the final details.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

I have the front 3 SE's sitting on my entertainment center. Hooked those up right away. Unfortunately I can't easily hook up the rest because of the layout of the room. Have to wait for the HT.


I think they sound phenominal! It's funny though, the sounded great, but honestly I wasn't super impresed with the low end when driving them hard with music. Then, genious me notices that the Bass knob on my receiver is turned down (darn kids). Once I fixed that, WOW! I'm amazed such big, loud, quality sound comes out of a small box like that!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Agreed, they were definately worth the wait. I'm hearing they're backordered a few weeks now. I guess they've become pretty popular!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I'm about to start re-framing my new "front" wall and was looking at yours as a guide. I think I'm going to build a DIY DaLite screen but wanted to think ahead if I ever upgraded to a pre-made screen like your Carada or even a Stewart.


I looked at the Carada website and how the screen attached to the wall but had another question. Do both horizontal hanging bars go from the extreme left edge of the frame all the way to the extreme right edge? Or, are they set in an inch or so from the edges?











I also noticed you did a double stud surround around the screen. Was that done so you could attach the frame to 1 stud and the GOM to the other? My plan was to put the black Commando cloth up 1st (around the parameter), then place the screen on top of that. That would allow the screen to cover up any staples, etc and give a really clean look.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,



> Quote:
> Do both horizontal hanging bars go from the extreme left edge of the frame all the way to the extreme right edge? Or, are they set in an inch or so from the edges?



The top hanger is actually only 48 inches long and eight inches on the bottom and I haven't installed the bottom one yet and not sure I will. They say in the install guide that they'll vary in length, depending on the size of the screen. I may not install the bottom one because it allows me easy access to everything. Now, people may say it make shake or rattle because of the speakers and sub, but with all that sand and mass, it's not going anywhere. I haven't seen it move yet. Here is the assembly instructions . Check out "step 2" first page.



> Quote:
> I also noticed you did a double stud surround around the screen. Was that done so you could attach the frame to 1 stud and the GOM to the other?



When I built the wall, I knew I would have a large opening. I was trying to figure out the best way to leave the opening without it sagging and at the same time I was trying to figure out my sub situation, so the framing sort of evolved from a prototype and I left it. The horizontal pieces are 96 inches, I didn't even cut them. I was concerned about screen height and how high I had to make it to accommodate the sub height and still have the brackets where they needed to be. I doubled up the sides initially figuring that would be pretty much the main support that would hold wall up. If you look in the original screen wall shot below, its the yellow boxed area. I doubled the horizontal piece to give me rigidity so it wouldn't sag. I had to modify the supports to accommodate the sub later and added the cripples to support it. I should have framed it out like a header for a door, but sort of ran with it. You'll notice in the picture you referenced, that support has been modified significantly.











> Quote:
> My plan was to put the black Commando cloth up 1st (around the parameter), then place the screen on top of that. That would allow the screen to cover up any staples, etc and give a really clean look.



I think you only need commando cloth is you expect any reflection off the screen back towards the front of the screen wall. You can get away with GOM otherwise. Larry Chanin did this to prevent the the light from showing through the GOM due to reflections. He built a shadow box to house the screen, so some of the framing was in front of the screen. I actually bought commando cloth as well since I thought I'd end up with a shadow box to hide the sub, but don't plan on using it. I think I have 15 yards of it (not sure of the width), you can have it if you want it. You can pay for the shipping though!


Hope this helps .... and I was serious about the commando cloth!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud, you have PM.


----------



## bpape

Bud,


I just emailed you the results of the changes we discussed.


----------



## chinadog

Steve and Bryan,


Got them both and replied. Taking to day off today to do some work in the basement, so I won't be online for most of the day. Will check back this evening.


Bud


----------



## larryep

i thought your cpu was attached to your hip and the key board was on your wrist. Bud your work ethic is like the Borg


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


I wish it were that easy! I'd be down there full time!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Worked on crown today for about 5 hours. I finished the bottom of the stairs and most of the game room. Tomorrow my Dad and I will finish the rest of the game room and the bathroom. My son's got baseball practice tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get all the non-HT room crown done. After that, some mud touch up and caulking. Pictures tomorrow.


I quit at about 3:00 PM because a new Circuit City opened nearby today, so I picked up the kids and we went and bought some new DVDs. They're on sale (10%) off and a bunch were 9.99. I picked up Jurassic Park (all three in one) for 19.99, Mission Impossible I&2, The Patriot, Wallace and Gromit (Were Rabbit and the one with the three short films), plus some other kid stuff.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Now that your all stocked up on movies the question is which one to use for the grand opening once everything is complete.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that your all stocked up on movies the question is which one to use for the grand opening once everything is complete.



Well, I expect the grand opening to be still out a little ways, so I'll have some more choices to pic from. My wife would love to see the new Harry Potter movie, coming out in March and I believe Narnia is coming out in April. Who knows when I'll be done, but I'm getting there.


Bud


----------



## Mark P

King Kong is April if you run a little behind, first hour is sort of a yawner but it picks up steam on Skull Island. I am sure it will give you audio system a great workout


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> King Kong is April if you run a little behind, first hour is sort of a yawner but it picks up steam on Skull Island. I am sure it will give you audio system a great workout



I thought King Kong was awesome, First Hour was slow like you said. Allot of people I know hated it. I can't wait to watch it in my theater. I been using the 1080 Trailer of it for the meantime.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Mark and Ruben,


King Kong! Cool beans! (did I just say that?) I'll add it to my list. Thanks, wasn't aware.


Finished all the crown in the game room and caulked most of it. I had one damn corner that took me a while to figure it out, it was like a 45 degree "point". Ended up pretty nice if I do say myself (hence the caulk!). Bathroom tomorrow. That's maybe an hour tops. When I get off my ass tonight, I'll take some pictures. Time for a beer.


Bud


----------



## Mark P




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought King Kong was awesome, First Hour was slow like you said. Allot of people I know hated it. I can't wait to watch it in my theater. I been using the 1080 Trailer of it for the meantime.
> 
> 
> Ruben



I liked the whole thing, son did too. Wife and daughter werent too impressed but.............


The first hour isnt for everybody but I liked the anticipation of waiting to see Kong in all his glory. The final scenes will let you know if your theater has a good picture or not judging from how much vertigo you experience.


Some of the special effects were top notch. Great popcorn flick and it will be hard to pick and choose demo scenes from this beast


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few shots of crown (I wish it were a few shots of Crown, bar is not done yet!) I worked on today with my Dad. The funky angle I had to deal with was that tight corner on the right for the small light soffit. I had been dreading it since I day I dreamed it up.










Closer shot of the right side. I had to cope it and got it pretty tight, but still caulked the crap out of it!










Inside of the bar, a few 135 degree cuts:










Another angle, exciting stuff, huh?










Just a few pieces left for the bathroom on the right, but all the stain grade crown and base for the concession area and HT room on the left.










Tomorrow the bathroom!


Bud


----------



## SmX

Awesome Bud!!! What a ton of work your doing there. I would slice my wrists if I had to do all those angles and cuts for The crown.


So I guess you are painting it all the Same color as the walls? If not, that would be a ton of masking.


Keep on Trucking !!!


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


I ordered 460 feet of crown... not including the HT room and concession area. Not bad for a day and a half. I'll prime it all (walls and trim) with a sprayer and then go back and match the other trim on the house with the sprayer, then I'll mask for the ceiling paint (glutton for punishment, I know). I have a roller attachment for the sprayer for the walls. What it comes down to is spray as much as possible without mucking it up. I tried to spray the walls in my other basement without getting the wall paint on the ceiling, what a pain in the ass. Worst part of the whole build out, the damn paint.


Maybe I'll just hire it out after I prime and spray the trim!


Bud


----------



## Mark P

Excellent work Bud,

Wonderful design esthetics, I love the outstanding use of angles in just the right places.


----------



## miltimj

Are you planning on painting it the same color as the wall/ceiling? Just wondering why you didn't put the crown up until after you painted..?


Edit: Doh.. Ruben beat me to the question.. I hadn't gotten to your tab in Mozilla yet..


----------



## chinadog

One reason I wanted to put it the crown up first was that I didn't want to install any support "system" behind it. Because the walls were just mudded, for the about 90% of the time I could tell where the studs or the joists were based on the screw heads. I used 2" brads to hold the crown. The other 10% of the time the caulk comes into play. I tell ya, I pulled a few piece down when I miscut something and had a hard time getting them off the wall when the brads were in the studs. Typically the brads stayed in the wall and pulled through the crown. If I were to paint over it, I'd have to find the studs to nail to or create a support system to hold it in place. For the stain grade stuff in the HT room and the concession area, I'll be staining before hanging.


Typically in new construction in this area, they install all the molding, prime and paint the molding right on the walls. I just walked through a new house (about three away) that finished the molding, same thing. I figured I'd try that this time. I did not want to paint all the molding by hand, since there was so much of it. The last basement I did thats exactly what I did. I painted the walls and ceiling, then hung the pre-painted molding. I just didn't have all that crown like I do now.


I have a Campbell Hausfeld power sprayer I bought when I did my last basement, paid about 500.00 for it and its painted for itself several times already.


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Excellent work. The craziest angle I've had to cut so far is when I built the new vault on the right side of the room. And, it wasn't something simple like 45deg. After a few trial and errors cuts, 38deg was the angle I needed (to match the vault on the other side of the room.)


Ain't caulk a wonderful thing







Too bad it's a bit more challenging to use that on stain grade material.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ain't caulk a wonderful thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad it's a bit more challenging to use that on stain grade material.



Steve,


You said a mouthful! It's great practice though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bathroom crown is complete. Taking the rest of the day off!


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Looking great Bud! I can sympathize on the moulding. I just finished installing about 450 feet of shadowbox. Like you I am finishing my entire basement at the same time as the theater. I think I am just a hair ahead of you on the basement and about a couple months behind you on the theater. If I get some free time later today maybe I will finally get my theater construction thread started before the room is complete.


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Thanks man! A hair? Is that a joke?!?! Are you making fun of me?!?!?! j/k :










I'm not far off now, although I'm still not sure on the flooring yet in the rest of the basement and I still have to tile the bathroom. At least now when I'm done caulking I can prime and paint. That's the big hump after drywall for me. The bar is probably going to wait a while until I replenish the savings account!


Bud


----------



## mborkow31

Bud,


I've just finished reading through your entire thread. AVS is one of the few web sites that my company does not block (someone high up must be a HT fan!) and I've read a few pages of the thread per day during down time at work over the last couple weeks. Now that I'm finally caught up, it somewhat of a let down now that I can't bang out 3 pages at a time, but I'll manage.


One thing that I'm not sure if you've discussed or maybe I missed are your plans for the decor of the HT. Do you have a theme or color scheme in mind? Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?


Keep up the good work and thanks for providing me with something to do at work, besides actually working!



Mike


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mborkow31* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?



Mike,


I may be wrong but I think Bud's house is on a street named "Blazing Ridge". A great name for a theater!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mborkow31* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I've just finished reading through your entire thread. AVS is one of the few web sites that my company does not block (someone high up must be a HT fan!) and I've read a few pages of the thread per day during down time at work over the last couple weeks. Now that I'm finally caught up, it somewhat of a let down now that I can't bang out 3 pages at a time, but I'll manage.
> 
> 
> One thing that I'm not sure if you've discussed or maybe I missed are your plans for the decor of the HT. Do you have a theme or color scheme in mind? Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work and thanks for providing me with something to do at work, besides actually working!
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,


LOL, no, not a western theme. Thanks for the chuckle though! Steve is correct, I think I mentioned in the very first post that the name came from the name of our street, Blazing Ridge Way. Sort of lame, but not too bad. Couldn't come up with anything else!


As for the decor, I don't really have a theme for the HT room specifically. I want the basement to have an older, sort of a "tasteful" TGI Fridays sort of feel to it, but not really a retro style and not over done or overbaked. Sort of old and nostalgic. I have a few old mounted movie posters, tin signs, license plates, B&W sports photos, an old pay phone, a working traffic light, neon light, old barber's chair and a bunch of other misc stuff. I've been buying and saving stuff for while just to get this done. This is my second finished basement in about 12 years since we moved to Atlanta. The first I finished just in time to put the house on the market, so it never was even used. This one has already seen more action!


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Its looking good Bud. Now quit playing around with the bathrooms and crown and give us our HT fix










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its looking good Bud. Now quit playing around with the bathrooms and crown and give us our HT fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Soon enough my friend, soon enough!


I believe Bryan (bpape) is done with his analysis and has made some recommendations of adding some acoustical cotton in the corners behind the screen wall and some FRK along the bottom 1.5 feet on the sidewalls. Also, he recommended removal of linacoustic on the backwall and minimal linacoustic under the soffits (only in strategic places). He also recommended putting a door into the concession area otherwise I'd have to treat for it as well. I'll have to order the door next time I got to HD. I'll order the material Bryan recommended today or tomorrow and then I'll make my acoustical modifications according. Please keep in mind that room characteristics vary and each room may/may not require different types of treatments. Bryan, please correct me if I misspoke or provide more detail as needed.


In the meantime, I'm stuck doing unexciting stuff like caulk, filling nail holes and paint. Maybe I'll get some Minwax samples to figure out that next step.


Bud


----------



## bpape

Nope. That's about right.


What we had to deal with was an imbalance in treatment. There was plenty (more than enough) mid and high frequency absorbtion in the space but almost nothing in the bottom end. In general, when doing the Linacoustic on the bottom, batting on top thing, people think that's all there is to it. What they forget is that in most of the designs that are laid out that way, there are soffits, columns, risers, etc. that are all used for bass absorbtion to balance things out in terms of smoothing the decay time curve.


Since the Linacoustic is up to above ear level, the early reflections are dealt with. Now we needed to look at controlling the bottom and balancing things out a bit. There isn't any way with current construction and limitations to use soffits for bass control. There isn't much room on the back wall - what there is is pretty much blocked by the seating.


All I did was to reduce the amount of high frequency absorbtion and boost the bass control via the thick absorbers in the front (no additional high frequency absorbtion as there was already Linacoustic there) and by using a bonded FRK facing on the bottom parts of the side walls. This will give a little extra help at 250ish Hz range and also eliminate a little of the HF absorbtion somewhere that won't get hit until after it's already likely bounced off the carpeting and pad.


We discussed also using the riser for a bass absorber but it doesn't look like that will be necessary now.


As I discussed with Bud, the thing with the door is that it offers options. You can leave it open when watching a game or having more of a party - but close it and have a more symmetric, properly sealed off space when you want to be a bit more serious about sound and just watching a movie.


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Sent you an email a few days ago, I'm sure you're tied up doing home theater installs, and haven't had time to respond. Just wanted to let you know that I put a check in the mail for you for the Carada screen. Give me a shout when you've got some time.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The bar is probably going to wait a while until I replenish the savings account!
> 
> 
> Bud



Don't wait to long on that bar. After all that hard work you are going to need a drink. Not home theater related, but for you bar check out the fireplace mantle moulding aisle at the hardware store for some great stuff. A couple of hours with the old mitre saw and I turned my bar area from looking like a knee wall to Cheers.


Ironically I got inspired from pictures from the website of a local store called "Bars by Bud"


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Pretty funny and a nice job. Did you do the tile work as well on the floor? What about the rest of the bar, looks like you have more planned based on the counter height outlets. I had planned on doing something with that front of the bar wall rather than just paint it. I probably will paint it when I spray and just cover it later. I have some ideas on that.


I hear ya. I'm thinking now I can probably built it myself rather than use prefab cabinets, not sure at this point if I want to tackle it or not. Actually, I take that back. I'd like to definitely tackle it, but not sure if I'll have the time. I'll give it some more thought. I know Jeff Baker (BuffBakerGA) made his cabinets, not sure about the doors though although I know you can buy them premade or have custom sizes done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Just Googled " Bars by Bud ". They've got some good pictures for ideas.


Bud


----------



## BuffBakerGA

Hey Bud,


[insert Rob Snieder's voice from the Waterboy] "You can do it..."


The cabinets doors were built from scratch too. Ken's got them over at his workshop to cut and route because they ended up a little big because of the hinge style I went with. I've got a couple of them here that I could take pictures of to give you an idea. Let me know...


JB


----------



## chinadog

Jeff,


Would love a picture of them. What kind of wood did you use on the doors? Cabinets are one thing obviously, since for except for the fronts, they're pretty hidden. Doors are key. If the doors look good, that's half the battle. Did you do any doors with glass?


Bud


----------



## BuffBakerGA

Yep... Eventually, I'll have some glass doors with glass shelves. I'll get some better photos soon but it will be TV, open with glass shelves, glass door with glass shelves, then double solid doors (not pictured).


----------



## mmmkam

Eventually it will have base and wall cabinets behind there. Would have loved to build them myself, but at this point will probably just buy them due to the time factor. Picked up an undermount "beverage center" and a kegerator for behind the front part in the picture. Right now I am planning on doing some type of tile countertop myself.


Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it) I didn't do the tile work on the floor myself. I was planning on doing it but a friend of a friend gave me one of his remodeling crews at cost for a week over the holidays since things got slow for him. I brought them in after I did the first coat of mud on the basement to knock out the rest of the mudding. Well they went pretty quick so I kept them busy with the tile work by the bar, in the bathroom and some by the back door. They also knocked out the crown and most of the chair rail. Needless to say after 2 years of nights and weekends the wife was very happy with the kickstart to the finishing schedule.


----------



## mmmkam

BuffBakerGA,


I would be interested in checking out those pics as well!


----------



## mmmkam

Wow that was quick.

You must have been posting as I was typing.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BuffBakerGA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep... Eventually, I'll have some glass doors with glass shelves. I'll get some better photos soon but it will be TV, open with glass shelves, glass door with glass shelves, then double solid doors (not pictured).



Love it! Love the cabinets, the stain color and the tile work. Pretty sweet.


Bud


----------



## BuffBakerGA

The doors were made out of 1x3 poplar and 1/2" plywood. We routed both sides of the poplar with a nice pattern and then we cut a groove in it for the plywood. Here a picture of one of the sink doors and a glass door...


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jeff, thanks. Looks great. I may be tempted to do this!


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

That looks great Jeff! What did you use for the actual cabinet frames in terms of material and contstruction? I saw you had a pic or 2 on your sight, but it was a little hard to tell from there.


----------



## chinadog

Jeff,


Yeah, I'm interested as well. Wondering if you picked it up from HD or somewhere else since I'm local.


All,


Placed my order with Bryan on the additional materials so I'll be getting back to that in the near future (sorry for the tangents Ronnie!). I also picked up some small cans of Minwax stain to figure out what color I'll be doing in the HT room. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bryan,


Question for you. I have always considered/thought about a few movie posters on the rear wall. Now that the back wall won't be treated, is there an issue acoustically in doing so? No light boxs there, probably something backed with thin MDF or another material. Not sure I'm going to do it or not, but was thinking of putting some furring strip on the wall behind the GOM for support just in case.


Thanks.


Bud


----------



## bpape

It won't react much different than plain drywall. The only reason we're not doing anything on the rear wall right now is that what you were planning was basically buried behind the seating too close to do much good.


Most likely, anything on the rear that you'll want IMO would be for bass control and that certainly could go down low. If you want to hang up some posters, I don't see that as a problem.


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


Contrary to rumors, I have not been sent to Milledgeville (okay, I'm out for good behavoir).


Got your mail - thanks.


Taking a look at the bar pics. If you have cabinet doors or any other general woodworking. My brother has a cabinet shop in Canton, and I have a set of keys. I don't know how to operate all the machinery, but I can build a set of raised panel doors in less than 10 minutes (a shaper is an awesome tool).


I will be spending a few Saturdays at his shop as the warden has demanded nicely that I make her some built-in's before I start on the basement. You are more than welcome to join me and construct what you need. I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).


Ben


----------



## mmmkam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).
> 
> 
> Ben



So true.... Its all about having the right tools. I think I have spent almost as much on good tools as I have on the basement. The one nice thing is that really good tools dont cost much more than the really crappy ones. They are easier to use and produce better results.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Contrary to rumors, I have not been sent to Milledgeville (okay, I'm out for good behavoir).
> 
> 
> Got your mail - thanks.
> 
> 
> Taking a look at the bar pics. If you have cabinet doors or any other general woodworking. My brother has a cabinet shop in Canton, and I have a set of keys. I don't know how to operate all the machinery, but I can build a set of raised panel doors in less than 10 minutes (a shaper is an awesome tool).
> 
> 
> I will be spending a few Saturdays at his shop as the warden has demanded nicely that I make her some built-in's before I start on the basement. You are more than welcome to join me and construct what you need. I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).
> 
> 
> Ben




Glad you got the pardon, was wondering if you were in solitary.


Count me in to check it out at least and I'll be happy to give you a hand. Just let me know the details (when/where).


I remember you saying your brother was into cabinetry/woodworking. I'm really tempted to do this now, I think it would be another great project. After all I have all the design and measurements done (thanks Home Depot).


Bud


----------



## sailor06

Bud - I posted this in the Panasonic Thread but have not received an answer. Since you are using the AE900 in your theater, I was wondering if you had any advice.


"I am planning to mount a Panasonic AE900 using a Chief-RPA225 mount. My first consideration was to mount the projector so that center of the lens will be even with the top of the screen. This will mean that I have to use an extension pole that is 14-inches long. Chief Manufacturing makes fixed extension poles of various lengths but none that are exactly 14 inches. The adjustable poles are just way too expensive.


With the Panasonic AE900 how close do I need to be to the top of screen to avoid keystone corrections? And secondly, can I just buy a 1-½ inch diameter pole from Home Depot and have it cut and threaded to be exact length that I need? I was just thinking the Home Depot pole would be just plain ugly."


Any suggestions?


----------



## sk8conz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailor06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I posted this in the Panasonic Thread but have not received an answer. Since you are using the AE900 in your theater, I was wondering if you had any advice.
> 
> 
> "I am planning to mount a Panasonic AE900 using a Chief-RPA225 mount. My first consideration was to mount the projector so that center of the lens will be even with the top of the screen. This will mean that I have to use an extension pole that is 14-inches long. Chief Manufacturing makes fixed extension poles of various lengths but none that are exactly 14 inches. The adjustable poles are just way too expensive.
> 
> 
> With the Panasonic AE900 how close do I need to be to the top of screen to avoid keystone corrections? And secondly, can I just buy a 1-½ inch diameter pole from Home Depot and have it cut and threaded to be exact length that I need? I was just thinking the Home Depot pole would be just plain ugly."
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?




I was in a similar situation, Panasonic AE700 and an OmniMount PMD1. Because of a high ceiling I need about 30" drop. I don't think they even made a extension that long. The cheap solution was a length of pipe (1 1/2" I think). I threaded the end and got it powder coated to match the rest of the mount. Total cost was under $30.


Two things I did learn along the way:-


1) In this part of World (New Zealand), 1 1/2" pipe is impossible to buy anywhere. Turns out though that it is sold as "thick wall scaffold pipe".


2) If you have the option, get the pipe in aluminium, it's much, much lighter.


If I get a chance I'll post a pic tomorrow.


Darrin


Oops, forgot to mention !!!


I had my projector centered horizontally on the screen. Vertically it was level with the top the screen so I have to use the joystick almost fully down. To my eye there was no issue with keystoning.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sailor06,


You really want to look at the manual. If you haven't bought the projector, take a look at the online version, here's a link to the AE900 site where the manual is. *Click on the "Operating Instructions" link* and look at page 11. You'll see they recommend the center of the screen both vertically and horizontally for the ideal picture (sort of crazy though) but you can shift the lens quite a bit. I can say that the lens shift is your best friend. *Also, look at the "Specification Sheet" link and look at the last page.*


I don't think you'll need to make any keystone adjustments if you're relatively close to the top of the screen. You only need to use keystoning if you've used the lens shift all the way up or down and still have to tile the projector. If you can get it relatively close to screen height, you should be OK and you should be able to use the lens adjustment.


On the pole, as sk8conz said, if you can match the threads, you're golden. I would just paint the pole to your liking. For the amount the pole/pipe will cost you, can't go wrong. You could even try a few different lengths to suit your needs.


Hope this helps!


Bud


----------



## richh

I have a Chief mount for my Optoma. The Home Depot route works well. They will cut the pipe to whatever length you want and thread the ends. I also picked up a can of Rustoleum "Black Hammered Metal" spray paint and while it does not match the texture of the Chief mount, it still looks good. Some pointers though... the pipe after cutting the threads will be covered in oil, inside and out. Get some Simple Green cleaner or similar and give it a good cleaning. Also, the jaws of the threading machine leaves small nicks in the pipe. Take the time to sand these out. I thought the paint would hide them, but it didn't. Of course my wife thinks I'm crazy obsessing over the asthetics of a piece of pipe that is mounted up on the ceiling. She's probably right







.


----------



## sailor06

Thanks guys - Bud, Read the manual and I don't understand why one would mount the projector in the vertical center of the screen. I checked online and found that I can buy a Chief 12-inch extension pole for $25.00, which is close to where I want to be with the screen height. I calculated that I need 14-inches; so many in this case be 2-inches short will not mean much. I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.


----------



## sailor06

Thanks guys - Bud, Read the manual and I don't understand why one would mount the projector in the vertical center of the screen. I checked online and found that I can buy a Chief 12-inch extension pole for $25.00, which is close to where I want to be with the screen height. I calculated that I need 14-inches; so maybe in this case being 2-inches short will not mean much. I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.


----------



## chinadog

I don't know how anyone could have it centered either, I think you'd have to give up probably some seating to do so and then you run into the issue with people walking in from of the projector.


Anyway, if you can get it for 25.00, that's great, its not worth the other route even if its a $1.00. If you still need to the 2 extra inches, you could just raise up the screen two more inches!


Bud


----------



## sk8conz

Here's a couple of pictures of my home made extension pole. Colour doesn't quite match, but the powder coaters ran it through for me two days before Christmas in a standard colour. To get it matched would have been 3 weeks.


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailor06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.




Sorry if my post was misleading about being a lot of work. It's probably less than an hour's worth of work to prep and paint the pipe. Not only will you save a little money, but you will get the exact length you need. Well worth it im my opinion.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyway, if you can get it for 25.00, that's great, its not worth the other route even if its a $1.00. If you still need to the 2 extra inches, you could just raise up the screen two more inches.



I wanted explain what I meant here in case someone misinterprets my meaning. It wasn't well phrased. What I meant was sometimes it's not worth me making something that I can buy pretty cheap. I'd rather sit on my butt and order something for a twenty bucks that have to make an extra Home Depot run and go that route and save a few bucks. Now if I had to buy 2, 3 or twenty, thats a whole different ballgame. I'm always up for saving some bucks, but I also pick my battles (time vs money).


Bud


----------



## bkdoc

Bud,


Did you treat the ends/edges of the Linacoustic where you cut it or along the top/bottom edges? I picked up a roll the other day and noticed on the instruction label they suggest that all cut edges need to be sealed with adhesive. Was wondering if you, or anyone else has done this, or if just installed and covered with GOM.


Thanks for your input.


--------------------------

Doc


----------



## ridetheducati

Please change the yellow text to black.


Thanks.


----------



## bkdoc

ridetheducati


Hows this:


Bud,


Did you treat the ends/edges of the Linacoustic where you cut it or along the top/bottom edges? I picked up a roll the other day and noticed on the instruction label they suggest that all cut edges need to be sealed with adhesive. Was wondering if you, or anyone else has done this, or if just installed and covered with GOM.


Thanks for your input.


----------------------------

Doc


----------



## chinadog

No, have not treated the edges and have not heard anyone that has. Remember though, this stuff is really intended for lining ducts, and having air pass over it constantly. I assume that it was suggested so fiberglass material does not get in the air and the system. Anyone else have other comments on this?


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

I'd guess that's the reason Bud. Haven't seen pictures in a couple days man.... you slacker!


----------



## chinadog

Hey man, you want pictures? Here you go. Door knobs arrived. Bought them on ebay. Almost done caulking, should be done tomorrow. I can post pictures of tubes of caulk if you want! I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there. I've also got four stains (now down to two) that I'm looking at. Leaning towards the Rosewood.



















Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


I like the Rosewood too, but have you thought about your carpeting? It might make a difference in stain color depending on the "shade" of carpet you go with!


Sean


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> I like the Rosewood too, but have you thought about your carpeting? It might make a difference in stain color depending on the "shade" of carpet you go with!
> 
> 
> Sean



Sean,


Good thought. I'm still out on the carpet. I bought a few small cans or minwax to get some ideas. I don't think I'd start staining until I at least figured out the GOM and carpet thing. I have narrowed the GOM down to two that I like, but I need to definitely look at flooring soon to make a final decision on anything.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey man, you want pictures? Here you go. Door knobs arrived. Bought them on ebay. Almost done caulking, should be done tomorrow. I can post pictures of tubes of caulk if you want! I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there. I've also got four stains (now down to two) that I'm looking at. Leaning towards the Rosewood.
> 
> 
> Bud



Now you're talkin! Nothing more I'd like to see than door knobs. I have to buy a camera and get some new pics posted so you don't start busting my balls about my slow progress.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


You could even take your stain samples with ya to the carpet place and find a nice pairing, although you will deffinetly want to bring carpet samples home. You'd be suprised at how much different a carpet looks in your own home. Plus you have some pretty unique lighting in your theater, so it would be good to put the samples it the room with your stain samples.


Sean


----------



## chinadog

I agree. I also need to go back and review my orginal paint chips I selected for the rest of the basement so I can buy some small samples to put up on the wall in the gameroom. Man, still a lot to do.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Bud,


Not sure how much trouble you want to go through finding the right stain, but I was originally planning on doing a bunch of woodwork and staining on my theater and must have spent a few hundred bucks evaluating different manufactures and colors. I found I got much better results and colors using stains from General Finishes and Benjamin Moore than the minwax stuff. I don't do very much staining so this was great stuff for the novice.


Check out a store called woodcraft. They have a place in roswell if thats close to you. The one buy me had everything you could ever want for wood work and finishing including a very helpful and knowledgable staff.


I achieved the look I wanted after a bunch of experimentation, but ultimately decided I would just go with the fabric panel look. I wish I had taken some pics of the sample board I made before I got rid of it.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mike,


Thanks. I wanted to look into Benajim Moore paints anyway, I've had some good luck with them. I'll take a look into woodcraft as well, they're not far.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now you're talkin! Nothing more I'd like to see than door knobs. I have to buy a camera and get some new pics posted so you don't start busting my balls about my slow progress.



Agreed. Its just a matter of time before the hammer comes down! I think Scott started in Ruben's thread....


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud,

Is the FRK a backing that is attached to something? Or is it basically just a type of kraft paper to attach to what you already have on the wall?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I'll let Bryan talk to the specifics/properties Here's the description:


"Foil Scrim..... Convert any absorbant material to an FRK face. Perfect for when you need to deal with bass issues but need to reflect the mids and highs. When used with 1 inch material, provides a nice hump in absorbtion in the 250Hz band"


Here is a link to the info on his site:
http://sensiblesoundsolutions.com/pr...products_id=46 


Bryan, cotton just arrived.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Not sure how to install it yet, but here it is:











Bud


----------



## bpape

Good deal.


The scrim is a foil reinforced kraft paper. You can buy OC 703 or equivalent with the facing already applied but it costs about double. OR, you can buy just the scrim and attach it with spray adhesive for considerably less. Makes no sense to me but that's the facts.


The scrim not only keeps the absorbtion from working on the upper frequencies, but it also tends to act somewhat like a membrane which, depending on the thickness and density of what it's attached to, yields some additional absorbtion at some group of frequencies.


Bud,


My normal place for shipping tubes for the facing is out. I'm going out tonight to find something big enough to ship the roll of scrim to you. Should have it in a few days. Sorry for the delay.


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. I also need to go back and review my orginal paint chips I selected for the rest of the basement so I can buy some small samples to put up on the wall in the gameroom. Man, still a lot to do.
> 
> 
> Bud



Don't get frustrated now! Once the stain is on and the carpet's in, you're in the home stretch and it becomes a real space!! Then the fun starts!!


Sean


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My normal place for shipping tubes for the facing is out. I'm going out tonight to find something big enough to ship the roll of scrim to you. Should have it in a few days. Sorry for the delay.



Bryan,


Not a problem. Any suggestions on installing the cotton in the corners?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't get frustrated now! Once the stain is on and the carpet's in, you're in the home stretch and it becomes a real space!! Then the fun starts!!
> 
> 
> Sean



Sean,


Nah. I'll get there. I'm on the down slope!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check out a store called woodcraft. They have a place in roswell if thats close to you. The one buy me had everything you could ever want for wood work and finishing including a very helpful and knowledgable staff.



Mike, I get their catalog, didn't realize they had stores! Also looking online at the General stains. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## bpape

I'd do the thinner behind the speakers first. Then double up the rest to do in 1 shot (for what is going to sit flush with the wall). If you can get some long T-Pins, those will work or you could frame it and just use a friction fit with the frame attached with a couple of L brackets.


For the angled piece across the top, definitely frame it with 1x stock and mount it with brackets. Again, a friction fit of the cotton will work fine. On this one, you might want to staple some lightweight muslin over the front.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> 
> Not a problem. Any suggestions on installing the cotton in the corners?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I'll let Bryan tall you how and where to install it but here is how to cut it. One of the other other AVSers that Bryan helped out had to cut it himself. This is what he told me:

*"Basically you can cut this stuff very well with a skil saw (circular) using a fine tooth blade. I used an OSB/Plywood type blade. I fought for 3 hours with a cheap electric knife, it's a beating. It took me about 30 to 45 minutes total to make all my cuts once I switched to the skil saw."*


----------



## bpape

If you want to take a shot with the skill saw, that's your business. I personally wouldn't - I like my fingers







It might work fine but I'm not willing to chance it. I've had very good luck with the carving knife. I use it all the time - you just need to be patient and not expect to cut through 5" thick, 24" wide material in 2 seconds - maybe 30. The more you try to push it, the more it will fight you.


----------



## chinadog

Great, thanks guys. Bryan, I just sent you an email before I saw your post. I'm a little confused. So the angled pieces across the top, that's just above the speakers, correct? Also, should I cut two foot triangles for the angled part, build a shelf and just stack them?


Bud


----------



## bpape

The angled part is from side to side fully. Just use a friction fit in the frame (flat frame, no triangles). Then you just have to mount it at 45 degrees to the corner as long as you have enough space behind the false wall. If you don't, you can fudge the angle a little bit to make it fit.


BTW, I picked up the tube and will get the scrim out tomorrow.


Bryan


----------



## bkdoc

Bud,


Yes, sealing the edges/cuts of the linacoustic is to prevent fibreglass fibres from spreading into the room. Obviosuly more important when used for it's original purpose. Was just curious what you and any others did. Thanks.



------------------------

Doc


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The angled part is from side to side fully. Just use a friction fit in the frame (flat frame, no triangles). Then you just have to mount it at 45 degrees to the corner as long as you have enough space behind the false wall. If you don't, you can fudge the angle a little bit to make it fit.
> 
> 
> BTW, I picked up the tube and will get the scrim out tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Bryan



Cool, thanks!


----------



## chinadog

Thought I was going to work on "Caulk & Cotton" today, but looks like I'll be heading up to Dalton, GA (carpet capital of the world!) to check out carpets and flooring. My kids are going to play at a friends, so I figured I'd take advantage and go on a road trip with the wife. I want to make sure she has some say in the process!










Bud


----------



## bpape

Smart man.


----------



## chinadog

Great Googly Moogly!


In the first 5 mins, we found a great wool carpet with a great pattern that was discounted because it was discontinued. Normally like 60+ a sq yard, down to around 20 a sq yard. It was red though. No other colors available. Just couldn't pull the trigger on red. We then spent the next three hours walking through warehouse looking at rolls of carpet and samples. We found one commercial type carpet, but wasn't 100%. We found some samples that my wife liked, but I wasn't sure on. So we ended up with nothing. Way too many samples to look at. I looked at laminates and engineered wood floors as well and again, way too many things to look at.


They also have a huge furniture store and they have a "home theater" section. I knew they had the Berks, so we went back and took a look. They only had 90s and 94s. The 90s we very comfortable but not high enough in the back for me. I was a little surprised and disappointed. The 94s were a good fit though. So that's probably the route I'd take when I can afford them.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great Googly Moogly!
> 
> 
> In the first 5 mins, we found a great wool carpet with a great pattern that was discounted because it was discontinued. Normally like 60+ a sq yard, down to around 20 a sq yard. It was red though. No other colors available. Just couldn't pull the trigger on red. We then spent the next three hours walking through warehouse looking at rolls of carpet and samples. We found one commercial type carpet, but wasn't 100%. We found some samples that my wife liked, but I wasn't sure on. So we ended up with nothing. Way too many samples to look at. I looked at laminates and engineered wood floors as well and again, way too many things to look at.
> 
> 
> Bud



So the moral of the carpet/flooring story is to go somewhere with a limited selection.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So the moral of the carpet/flooring story is to go somewhere with a limited selection.



Only if you bring your wife!


Bud


----------



## SmX

Yeah Man, carpet selecting is tough. Especially if Your looking for a black carpet with a pattern like I was. Everything was black and tan, too busy or solid black. So I just settled for something with a neutral pattern and I now have to dye the lines in the pattern to match my room.


If I would of done a brown and black room, I would of been set. If I would of done a red carpet, I would of been set. There are many red carpets with patterns to choose from around here.


Find a few patterns you like and let someone like Chirpie render out the room for you with the different carpet choices. That's what I did and it helped me out allot.


Ruben


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Choosing carpet is a real tough one. I agree with bringing the wife along.


Have you tried HD or Lowes?! HD is having a No Interest-No Payments for One Year, right now.


After the wife and I searched tons of "carpet-stores" and millions choices, I agree with jerrodshook. Limiting the selection helps a bit.


AVOID WOOL CARPET!! It's imposible to clean, and typically very expensive. Don't buy any of the salespersons pitch about spraying it with a stain inhibitor. It doesn't work!!


Sean


----------



## jerrodshook

It seems like quite a few people have bought carpet from HD and Lowes. I haven't looked at carpets yet.


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


I always wander through the carpet and tile sections for ideas at the big box stores. I meant it when I said Dalton was the carpet capital of the world. Its my understanding that 90% of carpeting comes out of there. There is literally 30 stores and warehouses in about one square mile there. I'm not sure if HD could even match the prices. I was just at Lowes about an hour ago looking as well.


On the wool carpet, thanks for the info. It was really nice to the touch, but I'm not hung up on the material. Nylon would work for me, as long as it's relatively soft.


Bud


----------



## JDH2

Bud,


I've been in the carpet cleaning business for the past 12 years and even sold carpet when I worked for my corporate office as an ancillary product line. All materials can be cleaned, but wool sure stinks when it gets wet. IMO based on characteristics of the materials I would go w/ a nylon as well. 99% of carpets come w/ a form of stainmaster and a wear dated dry soil protection, so as Sean said, dont fall for the addtional sales pitch. Also, beware of the salesman that uses the manufactures warranty as a sales pitch. Other than a manufacture defect, the warranty is useless bc it excludes anything that can actually damage the carpet. If you are able to buy direct from one of the mills (Shaw or Mohawk) warehouses that is great!


BTW Thanks for all the help, I got my x10 switches in last week.


Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Cool. Thanks for the input!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Gentlemen,


Some recent events have got me thinking about my career options again. I've been going back and forth for a while, but am considering a job and/or career change. You can never network too much, so I've decided to post a resume in the "Job Seeking" forum a resume in case someone comes across it. If you know of anything, PM me or send me an email.


Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bryan,


Scrim came today. Do I pull off the paper side or not? 1.5 feet on the side walls with spray adhesive, correct?


Thanks,


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud this isn't like you...


I hope all is well and that you're just hard at work (either on the basement or on the new job...)

Can't wait to see your progress


Kevin -


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


Thanks. Been lurking part time the last few days.


I actually took a few days off both from work and the basement. My kids were off last week and I wanted to spend some time with them while I could, since I'm not sure what my next move will be on the job situation.


As far as the HT room, I did exchange emails with Bryan, so I did put up the scrim on Saturday. I'll need to take a few pictures and post here. I still need to install my cotton though,get some muslin and finalize the design for the corners. Got some ideas there. I also finished up my last piece of drywall on my cove and started putting the metal edging on the bottom of the cove in preparation for GOM. Still out on GOM colors and carpet though. As far as the rest of the basement is concerned, still caulking and filling in nail holes.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's a shot of the scrim installed on the linacoustic. It's installed on both the left and right walls about 18 inches high for the length of the wall. I installed it using 3M spray adhesive. Ignore the plastic and other distractions in the picture.











Bud


----------



## bpape

Lookin good bud. You're probably chomping at the bit to get some tunes going in there...


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hey Bud, I want you to know you've had a positive impact on me and I've pulled the trigger on the Panasonic PT-AE900U with 1 day left on the $400 rebate. I saw it on the Audioholics $25K Recommended Home Theater System page and it sent me over the edge. By-the-way the lady sitting in the chairs on page 2 is one of my good friend's wife (small world).


Can't wait till I'm at the scrim stage.










Dave


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Good deal, I know you'll enjoy it and its a great price. Another great bang for the buck. You couldn't have gone wrong with the Z4 either, I'm sure. Let us know how it works out for you. Where did you get it?


The woman in the 088s is your friends wife? Pretty funny. You out to leverage that to get deal on the Berks... She's probably not affiliated with Berkline, I know, just another gorgeous chair model...


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Bud,


A while back in your thread you said that you were originally trying to decide between the z4 and the 900, but something made you go for the 900. Did you ever remember what the deciding factor was? I didn't remember seeing that but I could have missed a post along the way.


----------



## GranTheaterO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where did you get it?



visual apex, their price was good but their extended warranty is a nice bonus.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You out to leverage that to get deal on the Berks...



Actually her dad is a professional photographer and does a lot of work in the furniture industry. The furniture companies regularly send the stuff not expecting it back and sometimes they charge a few hundred dollars. They got us a nice set for the basement but the Berks seem to be a little harder to acquire.


Keep up the good work and good luck with any potential career change decisions that seem to be looming on the horizon.


Dave


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> A while back in your thread you said that you were originally trying to decide between the z4 and the 900, but something made you go for the 900. Did you ever remember what the deciding factor was? I didn't remember seeing that but I could have missed a post along the way.



I'm pretty sure these were the articles I was referring to. I don't think I posted them before. I'll let you come up with your own conclusions here based on what was written. I'm sure that the conclusions may be biased in some way in these particular articles, but they are similar to a lot of other comparisons I've read. One thing that I remember that jumped out at me was the handling of SDTV. I don't expect much use of the projector for SDTV, but with limited HDTV channels and kids, its nice to know that it is viewable.

ProjectorReviews.com -> Projector Comparison Summary: Z4 vs PT-AE900u 
FocusedTechnology -> Panasonic PT-AE900U vs. Sanyo PLV-Z4 


Hope this helps.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

That's one small bump for Bud...

one... giant... leap for this thread -


----------



## hoya94

Bud-


This is my first post on this wonderful forum so I hope I observe all the rules, decorum, etc. I have basically spent the better part of the last 5 or 6 days reading through your thread and SandmanX's thread from start to finish and am just amazed not just at how superb your theater, work ethic and commitment to detail are, but also at how willing you and so many others are to take the time to post so much information, answer so many questions and educate us newbies. I'm sure if you never posted you would have been able to finish weeks ago - then again, I suppose if nobody ever posted we all would know only a small fraction of what we currently know.


Though I have not yet embarked on the HT quest I intend to do so at sometime in the near (hopefully







) future and feel so much more prepared for having spent time on this forum. I think I will enjoy the construction/planing process as much if not more than the completed theater.


One of the funny things about reading these huge threads from start to finish is that you can't wait to get to the end to see the final product as you expect them to be completed by the time you get to the end, only to find out that you've just caught up to reality - kind of like reading a long book only to find out that the last chapter is not yet completed. (Though by the looks of it your theater will be more enjoyable than any book I've ever read!) The other interesting thing is that you start to feel like you really know the people on the thread (even if you're only a lurker like me







).


Anyhow, I wanted to thank you (and so many others) for sharing your knowledge and compliment you on an outstanding job thus far. I hoep you don't mind if I pile on the questions when I finally get around to doing it myself!


Now to find a new house with and extra room for a dedicated HT - man, this is going to be an expensive hobby!







For now I'll just tell my wife the extra room is for "storage" (she doesn't need to know that we'll be storing a project, equipment rack, speakers, etc!)


----------



## chinadog

Hey Hoya94, thanks for the post and welcome to the insanity...


I spent a lot of time myself reading out here before posting. There's quite a bit of information to absorb. Don't hesitate to ask questions or give opinions. For every one question you have, there are probably 50 people looking for the same info and another 50 people who have the answer.


Did you read from front to back or did you cheat and skip around the book?







I'm sure it seems to folks that I've slowed down and admittingly I have had some distractions, including baseball season again, job constraints and a few other things. Including paying taxes! Urgh!


I have been doing odds and ends, none of which have been picture worthy. Almost done with caulk and nail holes in the basement, but need some time to get the color scheme squared away, find the damn carpet, etc. I also need to calculate my GOM needs. I can probably just get the black for now and figure out the rest later.


Anyway, welcome...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vbellino* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?



Been a while, sorry for the delay. Just got around to adding the dimensions. They're rough, based on rounded off measurements for the trim. I calculate about 1200 sq feet of finished space and 1400 total including the mechanical room and my workshop.


Bud


----------



## Ktulu_1

Bud, I'm sure it's buried in this thread somewhere, but how high is the ceiling in the theater?


----------



## chinadog

Jeff,


First post, I think! Actually, the ceilings are 9 feet. Under the soffits in the HT room and all the rooms except the gameroom are 96.5 inches (two sheets of drywall plus 1/2 inch off the floor). The soffits in the gameroom are about 91 inches due to glued laminate beams constraints. I made the all the same in there to look uniform.


Bud


----------



## Ktulu_1

Yep, it's in the first post.







I haven't read that one for a while. Thanks.


----------



## jandawil

Hey Bud (or anyone else who has some experience here), When you build your riser for rear seating, are you going to carpet the whole floor and than build a riser over the carpet, or will you build the riser and than carpet around it? I am still debating how I will do mine. If I carpet the entire floor, I can have the liberty to move the riser if need be, but I will be stuck with the placement if I attach it to the concrete and carpet around it. Any thoughts???


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jon,


Riser has been done a while. Post 523. I think this has come up a few times in the construction threads. I think most people put in the riser prior to carpet. A few have done it the other way though. In my case, I figured that this room will be used for HT, period. Worst case, the carpet could get pulled up, riser removed and new carpet put in. I'm not sure if putting the carpet down first would get crushed underneath the weight of the riser and loungers. It would depend on the carpet, of course.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Almost done with caulk and nail holes in the basement




Dho... You just pulled ahead of me Bud. I need to get out of this thread and back downstairs working.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did receive the power supply about two weeks ago. It did NOT have the damn adapter for it like I was told by the Channel Plus folks. I though maybe the seller would have included it. Nope.
> 
> 
> Good news though. I called Channel Plus technical support and they just dropped one in the mail for me.
> 
> 
> Abierce and whoever else who might have purchased one of these without the power supply, I'd suggest you call Channel Plus customer service if you need the adapter as well. Their number is 800.999.5225. The part number for the power supply is 350-086.
> 
> 
> Will hopefully install inthe next two weeks.
> 
> 
> Bud



Just another followup. Received my power adapter from Channel Plus finally this week, although I had to call back after a while, since I didn't receive it. I talked to someone different and they had one handy and just sent it to me free of charge. No rush to hook it all up, will get to it soon.


Also, the Comcast "installer" came back yesterday to replace my STBs with HD DVRs with dual tuners. Was told that the units have 120 hour recording capacity for SD and 20 hours for HD. One reason why I switched was because I was told that these were the new HDMI boxes. NOT! I'll have to switch them out later if need be. I'm running DVI upstairs to my Hitachi 51", so that's OK. I'm using component to the Yamaha RXV2500 and HDMI to the AE900.


He actually hooked up the STB in the HT room and I couldn't get a picture after that, turns out he reversed the green and blue cables! And to think it cost me 30 bucks a box for this clown to hook it up. He did mention to me that the area is going all digital in the next couple of months. Looks like the STBs will handle PIP (dual tuners on these) as well once the area is digital, so that'll be interesting.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, the Comcast "installer" came back yesterday to replace my STBs with HD DVRs with dual tuners.



Bud,


Please let me know how the HD Comcast DVR boxes work out with you. I was planning to switch to satellite just because I've hear it was "supposed" to be better. I have a friend that just switched from DTV to Dish because they offered more HD channels, has less compression artifacts and will have MPEG4 sooner.


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


What type of Thermostat did you use on the whisper fan in your equipment closet? Did you set it up with an override switch?


regards,


Billmac


----------



## miltimj

Granted, I'm a thousand miles further north, but I have Comcast with a Motorola 6412 dual-tuner HD DVR (for the past year) and love it. It's recently had a couple of issues with interruptions, but Comcast swapped it out and it seems to be okay now. The picture is awesome and the DVR capabilities are addictive.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I've had the HDTV boxes in the house for a while (including the theater) and it's wonderful. It really is excellent. I have not had the dish, so I can't compare. This time around with the DVR, I did notice the hard drive is a little noisy, but nothing I can actually hear from the theater. I may swap it out with the upstairs unit for now which does not seem to have an issue.


As Tim mentioned, the features, including a dual tuner will be nice, but I just haven't had time to really put it to a test. First time DVRer, so its new to me. I don't watch a lot of TV.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> What type of Thermostat did you use on the whisper fan in your equipment closet? Did you set it up with an override switch?
> 
> 
> regards,
> 
> 
> Billmac



Bill,


I used an attic fan thermostat. You can find them at Home Depot for about 16 bucks. You'll find them over in the attic fan section. I did no use an override. You can adjust the temperature to go on as needed, I keep it around 80 degrees and have not heard it on yet running only my equipment at this point.


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> I've had the HDTV boxes in the house for a while (including the theater) and it's wonderful. It really is excellent. I have not had the dish, so I can't compare. This time around with the DVR, I did notice the hard drive is a little noisy, but nothing I can actually hear from the theater. I may swap it out with the upstairs unit for now which does not seem to have an issue.
> 
> 
> As Tim mentioned, the features, including a dual tuner will be nice, but I just haven't had time to really put it to a test. First time DVRer, so its new to me. I don't watch a lot of TV.
> 
> 
> Bud




Hey Bud depending on the type of hard drive inside the DVR you can quite it through the drive software. Most manufactures like seagate have software that will pass the appropriate ATA command to the drive EEPROM and will allow you to make changes. One of those changes is for Acoustic Management. You can change the drive spin to enable a quieter drive without any repercussions on the DVR or your recordings.


BTW Direct TV, while lacking in the HD channels (currently 15), has launched 2 MPEG 4 HDTV satellites this year with plans for 6 more by year end. So by Dec every Direct TV channel should be HD, of course you will have to buy new receivers to accept the MPEG4 stream.


Drew


----------



## chinadog

Hey Drew,


Thanks for the info. If it gets to be a problem, I'll look at the alternatives. Every channel in HD? Nice!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Thank you Tim, Bud and Drew for the comments. It's good to know that Comcast video quality is good.


My wife is leary of the Satellite because she has heard is heavy rain storms, the TV goes out. Everyone I've talked to said this rarely happens and not to worry about it. I'm with Comcast "Standard Def" now and have (2) Series 1 Tivos (love 'em). Since I do not have a HD capable TV yet, no use in upgrading until the HT is completed.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Tim, Bud and Drew for the comments. It's good to know that Comcast video quality is good.
> 
> 
> My wife is leary of the Satellite because she has heard is heavy rain storms, the TV goes out. Everyone I've talked to said this rarely happens and not to worry about it. I'm with Comcast "Standard Def" now and have (2) Series 1 Tivos (love 'em). Since I do not have a HD capable TV yet, no use in upgrading until the HT is completed.



Hey Steve...I've had DirecTV for 7 years now and the only time I did not have reception was when we got a big snow storm and the dish would get covered in snow. It sucked!! I'm a huge Packers fan and it was during their 2nd superbowl run and it was a playoff game. I had to go outside every 20 minutes with my broom to sweep of the snow!!! Small price to pay to watch Brett Favre carve up a defence. To bad they went on to get punked by Elway in the superbowl. That instance aside, I have never lost my signal and have been very happy with DirecTV.


----------



## chinadog

I had a few hours yesterday and finished up the edging around the bottom of my cove. That's done now, no more work on the cove. I also worked with my dad and did the furring strips around the ceiling in preparation for both GOM and crown molding. I moved the projector slightly (a few inches) as well. The lens was slightly off center and I corrected that. I think I originally centered on the projector and not the lense. Typical rookie mistake, I suppose!



















More furring strips. I need to build templates to house the rear speakers like I did for the side surrounds still. This allows me to staple GOM around the speaker. I was originally going to hide it completely behind GOM, but if I ever had to get to them to replace them, it would be easier to do it this way. I'll paint the grills the same color as the GOM to blend. What do you guys think? Hidden or accessible? I guess I could always unstaple the GOM on that rare occasion I need to get to the speaker.










I also raised my screen up about 2 inches higher, but I had to add an extra support for the bracket. If you look, you can see the new 2x4 above the screen. I took the screen off this morning and painted it black as well.










I think I'm down to two colors of GOM. I'm leaning towards 381 - Aquamarine (on the left). The other is 150 - Wedgewood, which I really like as well. I think the Aquamarine will go better with the rest of the basement color scheme though.










I've been tossing the idea around of moving that heat vent down to the soffit. I've got this thing in my head about possibly doing a paneled star ceiling like Ruben and it would be smarter to do it now than later. Not sure though. I'd have to leave the cans and put the trim/baffle through the panels. I could put the illuminator in the equipment closet, run the fiber from there. I'd have to plan it all out. I'm just not sure I want to do it. Would love to have done it initially, but not sure I want the hassle now being so close. If I moved the heat now though, I'd at least have the option and it would be less hassle later.


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good bud. How are you planning to hide the staples in the corners?? I have been thinking about this lately on my build and have come up with a solution that I have not seen posted here yet...


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


Where did you end up purchasing your low level step lighting? I've been looking for something like that but maybe a little bigger. I'm having a heck of a time tracking down something functional and cost effective.


I'm done with electrical and was hoping to have them installed or at least a sample unit before sheetrock starts in a week.


Regards,


billmac


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jason,


Planning on crowning the whole ceiling under the soffit with stained crown to match the other wood in the theater. There are a few spots where I think I may use the Fabricmate track system so I can pull it down easily, but still thinking it through.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmackrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Where did you end up purchasing your low level step lighting? I've been looking for something like that but maybe a little bigger. I'm having a heck of a time tracking down something functional and cost effective.
> 
> 
> I'm done with electrical and was hoping to have them installed or at least a sample unit before sheetrock starts in a week.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> billmac



Bill,


I got these through ProLighting.com . They're incandescent and I have 25W bulbs. I may end up painting the louvered covers, but haven't decided.


Bud


----------



## bmackrell

thanks, I'll go check these out.


I noticed yours are installed ontop of the insulation. Are these step lights insulation safe like some of the IC-type of recessed ceiling lights?


Also was curious is the louvered covers come off so you can sheetrock over them or do they go on after sheetrock?


Regards,


billmac


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


Correct, these particular ones are IC rated. Doesn't state it online on the site, but does have it one the unit itself. The unit is completely enclosed in a metal box, the louver come comes on and off without a problem.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

For the speakers how about going for hidden and accessible. Can you take that template cover it with GOM and then attach it with the industrial velcro. Just add a furring strip around it for the soffit GOM material and it will act like a grill cover that is removable and the seams should be virtually invisible.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More furring strips. I need to build templates to house the rear speakers like I did for the side surrounds still. This allows me to staple GOM around the speaker. I was originally going to hide it completely behind GOM, but if I ever had to get to them to replace them, it would be easier to do it this way. I'll paint the grills the same color as the GOM to blend. What do you guys think? Hidden or accessible? I guess I could always unstaple the GOM on that rare occasion I need to get to the speaker.



Bud,


These in-walls have grills --right? Well why don't yau put them on the outside (for easy access) but wrap the grills in the same GOM you are using for the walls. Should blend in well and have a slight bump-out because of the speaker grill.


A few other options:


1) Recess the inwalls just slightly so the grills sits in even with the wall vs. sticking out a little. Cover the grill with GOM to get a more FLAT look


2) MY FAVORITE --- if you really want to get fancy, recess the speakers 3/4", build a simple removable frame (just like a picture frame) and cover the frame with GOM. I see it made out of 1x2 pine but you could even get away with the 3/4" x 3/4" hardwood. I made mine from a combo of both materials. Yours would be lots easier to build since you do not have to deal with the depth of a column as I did. Hold it in with Industrial Velcro and you're done


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Great idea! Actually, was thinking about those speaker grill magnets, but they may be too deep. Velcro is probably a better alternative. Good deal. Thanks Mike.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> 
> Great idea! Actually, was thinking about those speaker grill magnets, but they may be too deep. Velcro is probably a better alternative. Good deal. Thanks Mike.
> 
> 
> Bud



Looks like Mike beat me to the punch


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Another great idea on the grills. I'll have to check that one. The grills go inside the ring that mounts the speakers with tabs. That would have to be painted and would need to be on the outside.


On your #1, if I understand correctly the speakers are actually recessed. My original though was to staple the GOM in the corners on the furring on the ceiling, which is an inch thick, then pull the GOM over the bottom (newly installed) edge of the cover and up and over the top edge of the cover. I was going to then staple on the top of the cove on the flat part. I'll post a mock up of the drawing.


I think your #2 is similar to Mike's and this is definitely an option. I think you guys have solved it!


Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is how I propose to do the GOM under the soffits. I think this is the idea that Steve and Mike were proposing...











Bud


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud. Just one thought on your proposed GOM application to the Soffit. That is exactly how I did mine and the one thing you have to be careful off is the edge of the fabric up on top of the cove. If it overhangs just a bit (or, you're stupid like I was and use the salvage end up there and all the little hairy things are hanging inside your light tray) then the cove lighting may throw some funny shadows.


Now, it looks like your light tray is huge so maybe not as big an issue for you but just something to be aware of...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud. Just one thought on your proposed GOM application to the Soffit. That is exactly how I did mine and the one thing you have to be careful off is the edge of the fabric up on top of the cove. If it overhangs just a bit (or, you're stupid like I was and use the salvage end up there and all the little hairy things are hanging inside your light tray) then the cove lighting may throw some funny shadows.
> 
> 
> Now, it looks like your light tray is huge so maybe not as big an issue for you but just something to be aware of...



Hey Eric, thanks for the post.


I actually used 1x6's to cap off the top of the cove and they are recessed about 3/4 of an inch. I plan on stapling the GOM right at the bottom where the 1x6 and the cove meet. I'll keep that in mind though. I should be able to take a piece of GOM and cut it the long way and use half on one soffit and half on the other on the sides. The back will be a little trickier, I think I'll end up with three sections and will have to run it front to back. I was thinking about using the fabricmate track for that section (mid ceiling, not in the corners).


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took the screen off this morning and painted it black as well.




Black screen?







Wont that be a little hard to get a good picture on?



Lol, JK. I know you were actually talking about the 2x4... just had to do it.










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


LOL. That must have been a little payback for that avatar comment in your thread, hmmm?


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ronnie,
> 
> 
> LOL. That must have been a little payback for that avatar comment in your thread, hmmm?
> 
> 
> Bud




All in fun my friend......










Your theater is coming along nicely. I guess I need to get in gear so I can catch up with you and Swithey.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


Well, seems to me like you've got nothing to worry about. I'm watching all these other folks start after me and finish before me. It's just a matter of time before you guys pass me and finish!


Any luck on the T pins?


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ronnie,
> 
> 
> Well, seems to me like you've got nothing to worry about. I'm watching all these other folks start after me and finish before me. It's just a matter of time before you guys pass me and finish!
> 
> 
> Any luck on the T pins?
> 
> 
> Bud




I have not looked for them yet. I did run accross something in HD the other day while browsing around that might work. Its a package of 7" spikes and 5" ferrules that are used to hang guttering with.


Im wondering about using a 24" peice of angle iron like you hang garage openers with. You take the ferrels and place 3 of them evenly across the cotton, then put the spike screws through the angle iron and the cotton. Do this at ceiling height. This might squeeze the cotton against the wall and create a hanger for it. Your would need some sort of furring strip to run horizontally across the wall to put the spike screws into.


I also thought about using some clamps similar to jumper cables. You could grab the cotton with these, then using eyehooks or something similar, hang the clamps from the ceiling. This would let the cotton hang.


In my situation, its all behind the screen wall and speaker columns, so a hanging style like this should be ok.



Sound like it would work?


Ronnie


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I also found this place for some pre-fab hangers.

http://www.agmind.com/insul_hangers/index.htm 


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie, sounds like the clamps would work. I guess there a lot of different ways to approach it. I like the hangers you found. I may order some. I'll keep you posted.


Bud


----------



## bpape

The perforated base ones is what I was talking about. The drop through nails also go up to 12" for any double thicknesses.


If you want to make a hanger, just clamp it between 2 pcs of plywood and run a couple pcs of line through it and over the plywood to hang.


With the clips, you get it all the way up to the ceiling but either will work.


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I havent seen this cotton first hand, but it sounds like this stuff is pretty sturdy. I guess we dont have to worry about it ripping and tearing? With all the ways we have been talking about doing it, nobody has mentioned anything.


I also thought about draping 8 peices of it across a 1x4 so that only about 12 inches of it hang over. I could then take this entire 16' section of wood and nail it to the rear soffit ceiling. This would hold it up and let the rest drape down to the floor up against the wall. Doing it this way would also allow you to move it out away from the wall if needed for that extra gap that I see some talk about.


BPape? Would we benefit from leaving a 6" gap between the cotton and the wall?


Ronnie


----------



## jerrodshook

Coming along nicely Bud! You guys keep talking about catching up and beating each other. I'd kill to have drywall up right now.....


That tray and how you did it is still one of my fav's in your room.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Jerrod. The cove is my favorite part as well, hopefully it'll come out like the picture in my head.


I think I'm going to go ahead and order my black GOM this week. I ordered a few more samples from Guilford as well, hopefully I'll have them in the next week. I've got to finish up my caulk, nail holes and clean scraps, put my tools and saws away, then paint. Even if I order the black today and had it tomorrow. It's still two or three weeks out before I can install. I'd still like to have the black done by the end of the month..... _slooooow_ progress!


Bud


EDIT: 1000 posts! Man, this thread is getting long. Not Sandman long, but long.


----------



## StewartFan20

WOW 1001 posts. Quite the milestone. Did you ever think you'd get this sort of response when you started your theater and this post?


By the way, thanks for taking all of the time and giving us all of the "nitty gritty" details. The amount/quality of information in this thread (and the 4 or 5 other threads that I follow on a consistent basis) is invaluable. I can't begin to count the time I said "Woops, I almost did that. I'd better modify my plans./Change this approach./Add this. Its a good thing someone else is a 6 weeks ahead of me in the build process".


Keep up the good work and the posts. Looks like you are getting close.


----------



## chinadog

StewartFan20,


No, I had no idea that this thread would be a living and breathing thing. I do have to say that of the (now) 1003 posts, 486 are actually mine, including this one.


It's not just me, I want to thank everyone for their participation here. I've learned so much from the group and watching other builds that I figured it would be good payback to try and be thorough. I enjoy the innovation and creativity that everyone has. I especially enjoy the challenges!


As you mentioned, hopefully people have learned from my mistakes and will avoid them or give them new ideas.


A big THANKS to you all!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, I had no idea that this thread would be a living and breathing thing. I do have to say that of the (now) 1003 posts, 486 are actually mine, including this one.
> 
> 
> It's not just me, I want to thank everyone for their participation here.
> 
> Bud



I think it's the Avatar that brought them in. Hey, there might be some girls out there.. if not, maybe we should rename the thread to "Brokeback Ridge Cinema"










But seriously, Bud, you're doing a great job on the HT. My wife asked me where I was on ours this morning. I told her I have so many things "in-progress" that I had no idea. Can't wait until mine comes together like yours -- at least someday


----------



## chinadog

Thanks, Steve.


Or just rename it to "Broke"!


Bud


----------



## bpape

Ronnie,


It wasn't planned to be spaced off the wall 6" but realistically it wouldn't hurt as it will only matter much in the subwoofer range.


Bryan


----------



## Milt99

No, no, Bud. Thank you.

A great DIY thread.


Someone asked you awhile back if your theater would be sporting a western theme.

How about Blazing Saddles Cinema?


----------



## chinadog

Milt,


Thanks. I got kicked in the family jewels by a horse when I was about fourteen, so saddles, horses, etc. just brings back bad memories! My friend didn't tell me that the horses name was "Bucky" until after I was on it. He started to buck and I went off the back. Took one hoof in the knee and the other a little "off-centered", but not by much! Nothing like rolling around on the ground in horse poop, either!


Thought you guys would get a good laugh out of that one!!


Bud


----------



## BuffBakerGA

Why don't you change the name of the HT to "Blazing Ballz Cinema"...


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BuffBakerGA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why do you change the name of the HT to "Blazing Ballz Cinema"...



Ahh, the next movie poster for your HT (to fit the theme).


--> Bud, I'm sure you'll get me back for this


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> --> Bud, I'm sure you'll get me back for this



When you least expect it ....










Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

Wow Bud, things just keep clipping along for you.

Any projected date yet for completion?


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Hey Craig,


I'd like to HT room done by mid April now. I have some family coming into down and would like to have that pretty much wrapped up by then. That'll probably without chairs though. The rest of the basement I'm not so sure on. The paint will be done, flooring may wait in the rest of the basement a month or two. Trying to watch my cash flow, got some pending things going on.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0




LOL.... I just now noticed Bud was riding the horse.







Pretty funny Steve.



Ronnie


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL.... I just now noticed Bud was riding the horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty funny Steve.
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



I was wondering if anyone would notice that. I think Bud saw it, though


----------



## larryep

Lol!!


----------



## jerrodshook

That was funny! First thing I noticed was Bud ridin that horse.


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


I received my low level step lighting today. Thanks for the pointer to ProLighting.


I was curious as to what is the general mounting height for these types of lights? I know everything is subjective but I'm assuming there are general guidelines like those for mounting outlets, switches, etc.


Regards,


billmac


----------



## ebr

billmac - I'd have to measure to be sure, but I believe my electrician mounted mine about outlet height above the step. However, I think there is a lot of leeway here. You probably just want to put it where it looks right and will throw low light on the step area. Probably can't go too wrong...


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


That was quick. I agree with ebr, put it where you think it's right. Some actually put them in the step (go figure). I put mine where I did because of space limitations. I was lucky I could get them symmetrical. The one opposite the door is actually under one of the windows I had to drywall over. It was pretty tight getting it in there.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Bud,


Im not sure I have chimed in yet on your thread but just want to say that between you and Ronnie im not sure I will have any of my own original ideas once I actually start my own project here in a few months. You are really paying attention to the little details and in the end im sure it will be everything you wanted...probably more.


Looks great..keep it up


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


Thanks. Good luck with yours as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Anyone looking for a Harmony 880?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654356 


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone looking for a Harmony 880?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654356
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud I got some Fabricmate Tracks if you need them. I bought them and never used them.


Let Me Know.


----------



## sk8conz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.
> 
> 
> Bud



Who did you find had the best deals on GOM ??


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.



Ruben,


AVS must have pulled the thread because I double checked it last night. It was from the Dell site. The actual post also had a coupon code for 30% off and also had a link to the 50.00 rebate that Logitech was offering. Net for the 880 after the two deals was like 124.00! I thought it might get pulled and I must have seen it right after it was posted. Sorry about that. I think the rebate is good until April 25th.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud I got some Fabricmate Tracks if you need them. I bought them and never used them.
> 
> 
> Let Me Know.



Will do thanks. I didn't really need much, I'm using furring strips in most places, I have portion on the soffit around the projector I'm going to try using it. If it doesn't work out, I'll be going back to furring. I appreciate it though!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sk8conz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Who did you find had the best deals on GOM ??



I went the Fabricmate route. Seems to have great prices. Depending on what I go with on the walls, I'll probably go back for the rest as well.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ruben,
> 
> 
> AVS must have pulled the thread because I double checked it last night. It was from the Dell site. The actual post also had a coupon code for 30% off and also had a link to the 50.00 rebate that Logitech was offering. Net for the 880 after the two deals was like 124.00! I thought it might get pulled and I must have seen it right after it was posted. Sorry about that. I think the rebate is good until April 25th.
> 
> 
> Bud




Go to slickdeals.net, enter the forums, search for harmony and the details will pop up. The coupon expires on the 11th, if memory serves. Although Dell has lots of coupons. I am thinking about this one.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go to slickdeals.net, enter the forums, search for harmony and the details will pop up. The coupon expires on the 11th, if memory serves. Although Dell has lots of coupons. I am thinking about this one.



I printed out the $50 rebate form last night, it says offer valid from 01/19/06 until 04/25/2006 (purchase must be made between those dates). I'll try and find the link and repost. However, the coupon code for 30% is gone forever. I should have cut and pasted it somewhere. The rebate is good for the 880 or 676.


Bud


EDIT: Here is one rebate form. Although this one shows good until _04/03/06_. Good "Buy it Now" price on new 880s at the worlds largest auction site. Item number: 5871553820 *Here's the better rebate form which goes until 04/25/2006.* I also found the coupon number, PM me and I'll send you the link.


----------



## chinadog

BTW, for those of you guys interested in the AE900, there was a post in the AE900 thread discussing Costco's very lenient return policy, which promoted me to go look at the Costco site. Apparently you can return anything back purchased on Costco.com to any of their stores. The price with the rebate is very good as well. I linked to it in that thread and it got pulled by the moderators. So go look for yourself if you're for one.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.



Ruben,


You have a PM.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Just FYI that Harmony can be found on the net for the price you were getting with the coupon. Just do a pricegrabber or similar search.


As an aside, I recently bought one and the up arrow button didn't work on it. I called Logitech, told them the story and they sent me a brand new one. Even though, I personally prefer the layout and feel of my MX-500 (the wife likes the harmony) that is some great customer support.


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


I figured that once I went to ebay. Good to know. I did buy one, although I was in need of a universal for upstairs. I heard from Ben that he had some problems with several he had purchased for installs. I may look at something else for the HT room, depending on what happens. $124.00 net after discount and rebate... not bad.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

The coupon code is on the forum I mentioned, and is good through tomorrow, or untill 1000 units are sold whichever comes first. I agree you can find it elsewhere for similar prices or you can buy stacking coupons off e-bay and try to drive the deal lower. Bud your in the AVS club, isn't this in the deals section above?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I didn't see the deal for the remote there no. I found it in the HDTV Hardware forum. The AE900 deal is there though. I guess I'll post the rebate form there as well.


Bud


EDIT: Did find some info here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=653746


----------



## chinadog

New GOM samples came yesterday. I may have a new contender. It's in the Lido style (2858) and there are two colors. Leaning towards the top one now.

Pine Valley - 054 










same style, different color(more blue) is:
Huron - 058 










My black GOM from Fabricmate will ship Monday.


I'll snap a shot of the bigger sample later today. We've got my son's opening day parade this morning for baseball and will be heading out shortly.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

BUd,


Thats some nice looking GOM there....how much will you need for your room, are you putting it anywhere besides the theater like maybe the concession area....wasnt sure if you dtry to incorperate some in that area too.


Been meaning to ask, whats your opinion on the easiest and best bang for the buck multisystem control type units....heating, lighting, electronics..etc, etc......unless im wrong you have installed more than one theater right, so I thought you migh have a preffered system,unit or maker.


Thanks Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Robert,


I ordered 21 yards of the black for the front wall and soffits. I think I'll need 34 yards of the wall material. I probably won't do any material in the concession area, I'll just try and match up the color and paint it. If I have any left off, maybe I'll get creative with it.


When you mention control type units, are you referring to home automation controllers? If that's the case, my experience has only been with the HAI Omnipro II, but there cheaper alternatives, I'm sure.


I've done a few basements. I've also done some "home theater" type installs and setups, but this is my first full blown dedicated room.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Saturday was pretty much a bust from the HT standpoint. Sunday I managed maybe two hours in the basement.


First thing I did was fill in the hole in the concrete floor where they jacked it to my the tub pipe. It'll been like that a while, I just got around to it. Still need to tile.


I started working on a prototype of my projector box. Still trying to figure out a few things, like the best way to mount it so I can take it (or the projector) down easily.


I used 1/2 inch plywood I had. It seems to work well, it's strong enough and still pretty light. I plan on angling the front similar to the cove, although I'm not sure at this point the angle is correct (or if it matters). I want the box to include the vent inside the box that's tied to an inline fan and thermostat in the box. If I square of the front of the box, the image would be obstructed unless I made a huge hole for the projector based on it's current mounted position. I'll probably build a hinged or removable front panel. Do you guys always put your lens cap on when not in use?


























I plan on cutting out the bottom of the box in the outlined area and building a panel that I can either velcro on or use grill guides. This would allow me to get to the controls, but more importantly, allow me to unmount the projector to clean the filter, etc.


















On the back of the box itself, I'll is a Middle Atlantic rack vent panel to allow for air intake.










I want to be able to mount the box from underneath with a few screws into the bottom of the soffit. I'll add some more supports to do so. I think I've figured that out. I still need to pull the whole box apart after I've figure out the other parts and glue it up. I've just got some brads in it now keep it together. I'll paint the whole thing black and wrap it with GOM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are the GOM samples side by side that I was considering, but I've pretty much decided to go with the Lido Style in Pine Valley (054). It's the center one, top row. I plan on one color, top and bottom with the beveled edge furring strips.










Here's a close up of the Pine Valley, although the picture doesn't help its cause. Even with the lights and flash on, it's a tough shot. I guess that's good though, you want it dark!










Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I really like that "Lido Style in Pine Valley (054)" GOM fabric too -- great choice.


Also, I've very curious as to how your projector box will turn out. I wanted to do one in my room but because of my high 12' ceilings, it would not look good with a large pole holding a big box. One light at the end of the tunnel on this one is I may have found a projector that performs well and looks great too. It's the new InFocus DLP IN76 (due out this or next month). It's all black, so matching that up with a black pole may be the ticket. MSRP is 3k but I'm hoping street will be around $2,500 or less.


----------



## chinadog

Steve, the box is 8" high. It's small enough where I can walk underneath it while standing on the riser, although not buy much. I'm 6'4". I probably could have gotten away with putting it on the back wall above the seats where no one would hit it, but I figured that would restrict my projector option in the future. I plan on using the fabricmate track around the projector so if I ever had to I could move things around easily. I should be able to have the box done and mounted this week for a trial run.


Neat looking projector, BTW.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve, the box is 8" high. It's small enough where I can walk underneath it while standing on the riser, although not buy much. I'm 6'4". I probably could have gotten away with putting it on the back wall above the seats where no one would hit it, but I figured that would restrict my projector option in the future. I plan on using the fabricmate track around the projector so if I ever had to I could move things around easily. I should be able to have the box done and mounted this week for a trial run.
> 
> 
> Neat looking projector, BTW.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Thanks for the explanation. I look forward to seeing it in production


----------



## chinadog

Harmony 880 came today. I did the inital setup and tested it, seems to work OK. Playing with the IR543Ah stuff now. A little getting used to. I don't have my IR stuff hooked up at this point, I wanted to paint the inside of my equipment closet first. I guess I'll try and get that done this week.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Robert,
> 
> 
> I ordered 21 yards of the black for the front wall and soffits. I think I'll need 34 yards of the wall material. I probably won't do any material in the concession area, I'll just try and match up the color and paint it. If I have any left off, maybe I'll get creative with it.
> 
> 
> When you mention control type units, are you referring to home automation controllers? If that's the case, my experience has only been with the HAI Omnipro II, but there cheaper alternatives, I'm sure.
> 
> 
> I've done a few basements. I've also done some "home theater" type installs and setups, but this is my first full blown dedicated room.
> 
> 
> Bud



Is there a reason you chose black GoM over speaker cloth (especially w/bang for buck of the latter)?


Now a suggestion... It'd probably be a cheaper option, and provide better airflow, to use a similarly-sized return HVAC vent (painted black) on the back of the hushbox instead of a middle atlantic rack vent.


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

What color are you going to paint the inside of your equipment closet? I was thinking black for mine, but I'm not sure I really need it THAT dark.


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


The black GOM was primarily for the look. Sure the GOM is more expensive than the speaker cloth, but it' just personal preference. Not sure what speaker cloth goes for, but the 408 was 250.00 for 21 yards. Not bad really. That's the whole front wall and underneath all the soffits.


Good idea on the return vent. The MA vent I was thinking of using (picture) wasn't as high as I had wanted, so I was going to get another anyway. Gives me a little more access room.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> What color are you going to paint the inside of your equipment closet? I was thinking black for mine, but I'm not sure I really need it THAT dark.



Steve,


Well, I was thinking black as well, but I think it'll be too dark. I do have a light in the closet though. My rack is in the concession area and turned sideways, so having it white would be much easier.


I guess the answer is no clue! Maybe I'll do the walls black and the ceiling white?!?


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


What was the width of the black GOM? I thought I heard it came in 66" width. Does the place you got GOM from have a fixed price on shipping or *free* shipping on orders over X dollar amounts?


Jason



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> The black GOM was primarily for the look. Sure the GOM is more expensive than the speaker cloth, but it' just personal preference. Not sure what speaker cloth goes for, but the 408 was 250.00 for 21 yards. Not bad really. That's the whole front wall and underneath all the soffits.
> 
> 
> Good idea on the return vent. The MA vent I was thinking of using (picture) wasn't as high as I had wanted, so I was going to get another anyway. Gives me a little more access room.
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Correct, 66 inches. I think I paid shipping, I ordered over the phone and they sent me a confirmation with just the final costs. Got it through Fabricmate. The fabric comes from NC and the track is being shipped from CA. I probably played two shipping costs actually ....


Bud


----------



## miltimj

That's what I figured about the GoM.. sounds good. Speaker cloth at PE is like $7/yard, so no big deal I guess, especially if you like the look.


As for the equipment closet, I guess it depends whether you want to hide the cables more and give a more finished look (unless you have custom front plates that completely hide the inside of the room). If you don't have the custom front plates and could see in the front, I'd paint it black. It's probably a rare occasion that you need to modify cables (except initially), and you should be able to find enough light for those occasions if the light you installed doesn't work well enough.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Tim, thanks for the reply.


I expect that I won't use the custom plates at first. May be something I use over time. I'll use blanks and vents since I don't want big open gaps. I have the 5-43, so lots of room, although it'll go quick once I can get to the HTPC, XBOX 360 or PS3, drawers, etc. I also have cables organizers for the rack so it won't look like a rats nest. I'm leaning towards the black though.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - late to the party here, I know but I'm noticing you didn't use treated lumber for your stage (I searched your thread but didn't find reference to this - sorry if I missed it). Does the asphalt paper negate the requirement for this? I know the code in my area requires PT lumber if its less than 1 1/2" off the concrete.


As you know, I'm currently working on the part of my stage that will have sand in it. I used PT lumber because of the concrete contact (although, I'm on roofing felt too) but also because of the sand. I figure the sand will absorb moisture in the air and trap it long enough to possibly cause a rot problem with the wood that is in contact with the sand.


Anyway, did you look into any of this? I'd love for someone to give me a good reason to not use PT lumber for the rest of my stage. 10' PT 2x10s are a b#[email protected]#.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Eric,


Not sure about the specific code in my area, no, but I did see somewhere else here that the inspector passed a riser with regular lumber because the roofing felt prevented the lumber from touching the concrete. Pretty common here on the construction threads to do it this way. I didn't want the extra expense of PT. I did notice you did both PT and roofing felt.


Interesting thought on the sand. I'm sure there is some moisture. If you're filling the cavity and the cavity is sealed top and bottom with caulk/roofing felt/construction adhesive and drywall, there can't be too much moisture to absorb. Depends on the basement, area and the inital sand/water content I would assume. Some people line each cavity with plastic. I thought this was to prevent leakage and help cleanup if the stage was removed. My sand was extremely dry. I was very surprised. Not going back now!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud and Ebr,


I'll chime in with my .02 and let you guys know that my builder actually put 2 layers of plastic down under the concrete foundation which negates the use of presure treated lumber for the stage. Code in my area still requires the builders to use presure treated lumber around the foundation line but regular wood on roofing felt definately passes code in GA with the plastic vapor barrier under the concrete or so I have been told. Bud - I would be surprised if your builder didn't put down plastic also. It is pretty common in the newer homes around our area.


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Yeah, they used plastic. I actually have photos of the plastic prior to the basement floor being poured. Just never knew the code.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

First impressions on the 880...


There are a few quirks that I'm working through. Initial setup is straight forward through the web site. There are some unintuitive web site navigations once you start fine tuning. It works fine with the all my components and the IR543AH, although for brightening and dimming certain lights, you have to send multiple "Bright" or "Dim" commands. I'm able to hit "Watch a DVD" and all the components turn on, get configured to the right inputs, turn off the lights, etc. I'm having issues getting commands to my PCS SMST6 Scene controller though, even though it supports it, so working through that.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


Quick question for you about your proscenium. Are you going to use furring strips on the proscenium or are you going to attach the fabric directly to the 2x4's? I am thinking through the seems and can't think of a way to have nice seems without using furring strips. Have you given this much thought?


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Going to attach directly and/or wrap them around the 2x4 and staple from behind where it makes sense. I still need to build grills will probably go with the magnetic grill guides (mentioned a ways back). Between the grills, screen and crown, I should be able to hide every all the staples (I think).


Bud


----------



## ebr

Hmmm... I have the vapor barrior under the slab as well. I imagine with that and the roofing felt that normal lumber would be okay as far as real life is concerned. I'm still not sure about the inspector, however.


When they first built my riser, they used regular lumber and my builder made them rip it out and re-do it with PT because he said it had to be that way. I guess I'll have to do some digging around the NC building code and see what I find. It would be great to not have to deal with PT for the rest of the stage, but I sure don't want to have to do it twice...


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


That is what I wanted to do too but you and I will have the same problem with either a seam in the middle of the Proscenium running up and down or running left to right. I am thinking I will use a thin piece of rigid cardboard (width of a penny or less) in the center and staple it down with fabric underneth and then cover the cardboard and run it to the end and around the side of the proscenium - see image.

http://public.fotki.com/JikkJack/roy...tune/seam.html 


I will repeat this process on the other side.


This way would yeild a seam of the smallest and hopefully most discreat look. The only problem with this would be the cardboard would run in front of the center channel. Running it left to right would be getting in the way of the L&R speakers...What do you think? Too bad they don't make GOM in 9 foot width...










Jason


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


I think we have a little different situation. Let me explain. Check out this mocked up picture that I did of the screenwall with my GOM layout.











I'm going to run mine horizontally. The actual height above the sub sections is actually 66 inches (well, its like 66.5 inches, but I can cheat a little since I'm going to install crown around the top). This was not planned, BTW, I just lucked out.










Anyway, yellow represents GOM sections that will be stapled. Red represents panels that I'll build and use grill guides, magnets (likely) and/or velcro.


Section "A" is a no brainer. Staple along the top and sides, then cut out the area where the LR channels will go, leaving enough around the edges to wrap on the inside and staple to the back of the screen wall. Same for behind the screen.


Section "B" I should be able to wrap and staple as well, although I may need an extra support to hide the staples. I think I have that figured out.


Section "D" where it meets section "B" I may have to do what you described. You use cardboard or that stuff they use for furniture upholstery (tack strips?) to give you the clean edge. You won't notice it much if at all. Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.


Section "C" are all the individual panels that will hide staples and seams remaining and still allow me to get to channels.


Make sense?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

BTW, good timing, Jason. Black GOM just arrived. Now I really need to go to Sherman Willaims and get my ceiling paint.











Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


Ok. I gotcha. I think you actually just gave me my solution as well. I like the idea of removable speaker grills but I think I will end up using furring strips so that the grills are flush with the rest of the screen wall. Thanks for the discussion and idea!


Jason


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Section "A" is a no brainer. Staple along the top and sides, then cut out the area where the LR channels will go, leaving enough around the edges to wrap on the inside and staple to the back of the screen wall. Same for behind the screen.



I realize you're going to use crown at the top, but how about the sides? Will the "C" panels touch the side walls? (In which case you don't need that thin 2" or so strip near the side walls).


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.



Actually, you could.. You could take a piece for "D" and continue some material at a 45 degree angle (or whatever the angle is in the "D" trapezoid), and extend it at that angle for the length/height of "B". You could then efficiently use the fabric for the other side by flipping the pattern upside down.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I realize you're going to use crown at the top, but how about the sides? Will the "C" panels touch the side walls? (In which case you don't need that thin 2" or so strip near the side walls).
> 
> 
> Actually, you could.. You could take a piece for "D" and continue some material at a 45 degree angle (or whatever the angle is in the "D" trapezoid), and extend it at that angle for the length/height of "B". You could then efficiently use the fabric for the other side by flipping the pattern upside down.



Crown will go around the perimeter of the room. The "C" panels won't go all the way to the crown, probably short of it a little, and will touch the wall. So technically, you're correct, I don't need to do the pieces on the wall. Planning on something like this:










Where one side will slip in behind the piece on the wall and the other will be magnetically secured on the side closer to the screen.


Gotcha on the trapezoid. I'll have to play with a scrap piece. Good thinking.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Just FYI - here is the response I got from the county inspector on the treated wood issue:



> Quote:
> You should use treated wood. Even though you are not in direct contact with the concrete there could be a possibility that condensation could form under the wood between it and the concrete thus causing the untreated wood to decay.


----------



## chinadog

Well, I think I heard about 10,000 people just grunted simultaneously....


I'm not sure if the statement means the condensation is between the roofing felt and concrete or between the roofing felt the wood. I assume the latter. PT is always safe in this situation, obviously.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I like that idea of slipping the grill in the slot and having only one side being magnetically sealed.


Regarding the treated wood, I think it may be different for an attached wall (bottom plate attached to the concrete, such as a proscenium), but a riser or stage (assuming you're not attaching it to anything) shouldn't apply as far as I've been taught. It's just a big heavy piece of furniture. I suppose you couldn't get away with it if you were running electrical to it, though. Although I've heard of some people running electrical up to that point, and then building more into the riser and running it back sort of as an extension cord to an outlet near an equipment rack or something.


Of course, I'm not a building inspector either. But it's important to mention that it's a removable item if that is indeed the case, since that may change the rules.


If it really is required, I'd probably take the route of lifting the stage and/or riser off the floor by using two PT 2x4s and building joists on top of them.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Section "D" where it meets section "B" I may have to do what you described. You use cardboard or that stuff they use for furniture upholstery (tack strips?) to give you the clean edge. You won't notice it much if at all. Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.
> 
> 
> Bud



To get the clean edge I tried it using the thin tack strips. I bought $50, 3 rolls of the stuff. Did not work worth beans. I found it much easer to work with cardboard drywall shims. The are about an inch plus wide, four feet long and 1/16 th thick. They were a little expensive. But in the end looked better, straighter, and easer to use.


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


Thanks. Cardboard drywall shims? Where do I find these puppies? Never seen them before (never looked for them really).


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greg,
> 
> 
> Thanks. Cardboard drywall shims? Where do I find these puppies? Never seen them before (never looked for them really).
> 
> 
> Bud



I Found them at Lowes.


In the attached photo the drywall shim is at the top. They come in packs of 20 or so for nine bucks.


----------



## ScottJ0007

I've used the cardboard drywall shems as well. They work great. I keep a bundle on hand all the time now. They come in handy for a lot of uses. I've picked them up at Home depot, but the quality varies a lot in my area. If your HD or Lowes has shems that seem to flimsy, try a drywall supply dealer. Attached is a picture of two shems balanced on my hand. The flimsy one is from the most recent batch that I got at HD. The other one is from a drywall supply dealer.


----------



## chinadog

Cool. Thanks guys! I'll check out the stores this weekend.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, good timing, Jason. Black GOM just arrived. Now I reall need to go to Sherman Willaims and get my ceiling paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


Did you know you have a black bear in your house?


----------



## chinadog

Ha!


He's the bigger of the two. And boy does he eat alot! Here is one of my favorite pictures, taken about 4-4.5 years ago. That's my son with "Gunner". Gives you a good idea of how big he is.

Justin (left) and Gunner 


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

LOL, why did you mention the position (left) of your son in the picture? Did you think we would have a hard time figuring that one out?










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

LOL! Well, I know a few kids named Gunner, but I guess not too many dogs named Justin!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL, why did you mention the position (left) of your son in the picture? Did you think we would have a hard time figuring that one out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



I think he did it to avoid a comment like that







LOL!


----------



## HeyNow^

Looks like all Justin needs is a saddle.


----------



## chinadog

OK guys...


Ran down to Sherwin Williams during lunch and picked up a few paint colors for the ceiling. I quickly threw them up in the ceiling. I could do black as well, but figured since the underside of the soffits will be black, this will give it more contrast.


The first picture is all the lights in the theater on. The second is with only the rope light on half way. Tough to get a good shot.


Here are the ceiling colors.


1. Danube - 6803

2. Jacaranda - 6802 (reminds me of Milano Blue, but not as purply)

3. Georgian Bay - 6509

4. Blue Plate - 6796



















What do you guys think?


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK guys...
> 
> 
> Ran down to Sherman Williams during lunch and picked up a few paint colors for the ceiling. I quickly threw them up in the ceiling. I could do black as well, but figured since the underside of the soffits will be black, this will give it more contrast.
> 
> 
> The first picture is all the lights in the theater on. The second is with only the rope light on half way. Thought to get a good shot.
> 
> 
> Here are the ceiling colors.
> 
> 
> 1. Danube - 6803
> 
> 2. Jacaranda - 6802 (reminds me of Milano Blue, but not as purply)
> 
> 3. Georgian Bay - 6509
> 
> 4. Blue Plate - 6796
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, can you retake the pics with the GOM wall fabrics you've selected next to paint samples. Might make it easier to make a match since the lights will be on some of the time


----------



## jandawil

I think you theater is going to be much fancier than mine







Other than that...I like #3. I personally doing mine in black, but I don't have the soffit issue. Keep it up....


----------



## chinadog

OK, here are a few more pictures. Color swatches are in the same order, top to bottom though.


1. Danube - 6803

2. Jacaranda - 6802

3. Georgian Bay - 6509

4. Blue Plate - 6796 (pretty sure this one is out).



























I could start a new thread with a poll...


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Having the fabric up there helps a lot!


My vote is for #3 (Georgian Bay - 6509) also


----------



## PamW

Bud,


Georgian Bay all the way!!!


----------



## strange_brew

One of my favorite parts of the world so I may be a bit biased, but Georgian Bay for sure.


----------



## Big Worms

Again Georgian Bay.


----------



## chinadog

Well, lets see. Georgian Bay, 8. Other colors 1. Hmmm. the only other person that picked a color different than Georgian Bay was my four year old. Today, she had a cast put on her arm (broke a bone on Sunday) and we all thought she'd pick pink or purple. Well ...

http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos...00_0583-vi.jpg 


So, at the moment, Georgian Bay is the winner, hands down. Any others?


Bud


----------



## GPowers

Another one for number 3, and i did not peek at everyone choice before I picked. Number 3 just poped out at me!


----------



## ScottS

Another for Georgian Bay. The color swatch doesn't do the actual paint color justice.


----------



## GranTheaterO

Georgian Bay gets my vote as well.


----------



## johnson_sb

Well I was going to say #4 Blue Plate. But hey what do I know -- I'm half color-blind.


----------



## chriswrx

My Vote is for Georgian Bay. Looks the classiest. My 2 cents. Nice Choices btw.


----------



## johnbr

My vote is also for number 3.


----------



## jerrodshook

I was gonna say #1, but I have a color deficiency.... not totally color blind. They are all blue to me..... just different shades. The Georgian Bay would of been my 2nd choice.


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Im going to be different and say go with Georgian Bay - 6509










Thats a nice color scheme.


Ronnie


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


I told you using child labor was a bad idea! Hanging drywall should be left for children of at least 6 years of age.


I hope DEFACS doesn't slow your progress!


Ben


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


If you are trying to achieve the consistency of matching color to fabric and make the trey look the same color as the walls then #3 - but if you are looking to break things up a bit and give a nice 3 color decorum, then I would pick #1 or #4.


My .02


Jason


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I told you using child labor was a bad idea! Hanging drywall should be left for children of at least 6 years of age.
> 
> Ben



I guess I should have waited until she was 5 before raising the drywall stilts another two feet. Oh well, live and learn.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> If you are trying to achieve the consistency of matching color to fabric and make the trey look the same color as the walls then #3 - but if you are looking to break things up a bit and give a nice 3 color decorum, then I would pick #1 or #4.



Jason,


Was trying to get a color that would work as a night sky sort of effect and match the fabric to some extent so it didn't just look odd or out of place.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

All,


Thanks for the responses. Georgian Bay seems to be the winner. I think I'll run out today and get a gallon and some primer.


BTW, if anyone is interested in this fabric, it also comes in a few other colors as well. One sample I got is called Heartland, which is a tannish color that is very cool.


All the Lido colors can be seen at SilentSource .


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


Love the color scheme. Can't wait to see pics with ceiling done and fabric up!


sdspga


----------



## chinadog

sdspga,


Thanks. I can't wait either!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hmmm...night sky...stars...ok - when are you going to announce the fiber optic ceiling?







That would look sweet with your set-up.


Jason


----------



## chinadog

I think I'm gonna pass on the star ceiling. For a HT room, fiber is the way to go. I've just got too much going on these days and think I'll consider that a "future tweak" at some point. The fact that I have cans (no good places for symetrical sconces) sort of sealed that fate.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Fabricmate track just arrived. I also just returned from Sherman Williams with the paint and primer.


Bud


----------



## bmackrell

Bud,


Did you order the materials directly from fabricmate?


billmac


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


Sure did. Just give them a call if you need anything.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I'm gonna pass on the star ceiling. For a HT room, fiber is the way to go. I've just got too much going on these days and think I'll consider that a "future tweak" at some point. The fact that I have cans (no good places for symetrical sconces) sort of sealed that fate.
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

One coat of primer on the ceiling. I also used the same primer in the equipment closet. I decided to to go black in there.











I'll put the first coat of Georgian Bay on in the AM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Ronnie


Well, that would have been the smart thing to do. I was hot and cold with doing it, I should been prepared for it.


Also, I picked up these insulation supports. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ronnie
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I picked up these insulation holders. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.
> 
> 
> Bud



Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers? Hopefully my local guy will have some 5.5 cotton in stock next week. Im ready to button up the stage.


Ronnie


----------



## indil377

Keep on chugging man. Getting closer every day.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers?



Ronnie,


I think these will work out great. They're pretty stiff actually. Needed pliers to bend them. Got them at Lowes.



















Bud


----------



## bpape

Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.


----------



## chinadog

First coat of Georgian Bay is complete. It is very dark. With the main cans on, it looks dark grey. With the rope light on, it looks a lot lighter. Unfortunately, with the rope light on, I can really see the roller marks and some small inperfections in the drywall. Soooo, I'll be working on touching up the drywall this afternoon after my sons game and I guess I'll have to spray the ceiling. I have a sprayer, just didn't want to pull it out just yet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.



Bryan,


Thanks. I looked into long "T" pins and anything over 4 inches were pretty expensive. I think this will work out great.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

About the roller marks, just think..... if you did a star ceiling you wouldn't have to worry about.







The paint should look good. Curious, if you have a sprayer why didn't you just use it from the start?


About the star ceiling, I think I'm definitely doing it. Can't wait! Should have my first inspection in a couple weeks. Feels like I've been saying that for months!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


It's a pain in the ass to clean. Especially for an area that's like 9x10....


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - on the roller marks - use a large knap roller and a LOT of paint. That should do it.


I had a real hard time on my last room with the ceiling and roller marks and it took 3 coats and the above technique to get it right. Good luck.


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Thanks. Will give it a shot tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead last night and fixed my ceiling defects in preparation for another coat of Georgian Bay.











Here's what it looks like with the second coat with the main cans on. The flash really brightens it up. It looks almost black without the flash. Although it looks good in this picture, you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.











I also primed my concession area, so hopefully that will be done this week.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Well Bud...if it makes you feel anybetter the picture doesnt show any roller marks










Seriously though...looks good, love the color.


Robert


----------



## rsberg34

Would like to see it with the rope lights on...seems like you can get so many different effects with different shades of paint and Id like to see how that color reacts. Thats close to a color I have been looking at to use below a starfield ceiling to just the top of the soffet....so I was wondering how the rope light would react off of it...looks good though


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


With the flash on, it really looks great in the picture. Here's a shot with only the rope light on. I really like the color, but it's definitely a different look with the rope light on all the way. I little purply on the ceiling, but blue on the sides. If I put the rope light on about 30%, I don't see the roller marks. Also, the rope light is in the corner. I played today with pulling it out towards the front of the trey some and it gives it a different glow. I was also thinking about putting some flashing or foil up there to see how that affects the light. I also need to get the rope light track as well.











Bud


----------



## sdspga

Bud,



> Quote:
> you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.



Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.


thanks for all the updates!


sdspga


----------



## bpape

Dark flat colors are just a bugger. I'd try another coat and follow the advice about the wet edge and a deep nap roller. I did 4 coats on my black ceiling to finally get everything to look smooth and even.


Bryan


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.
> 
> 
> thanks for all the updates!
> 
> 
> sdspga



Insult! Insult! I'd take any advice right now.


Actually what I did was do a small section, then worked my way around the perimeter, then did the center. I did this figuring the rope light would show where I stopped towards the center. I figured if I made long enough strokes away from the center, then the marks would be far enough towards the middle the light would no show them. I think the ones I saw towards the front I went back and touched up. Argh!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dark flat colors are just a bugger.



You're not kiddin'!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just ordered 15 sections of 4 foot tracks for 1/2 inch rope light from NoveltyLights.com . One less thing to do on my list.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Its looking good Bud. I cant see roller marks in the pics either. If it gets to tough to cover them up, you might have to switch to the star ceiling










I picked up my rope light track at Home Depot. They have 8' strips for around $6 each. I just posted some pics of it on my thread.


On those T-Hangers you made, do you plan on just pushing them into the sheetrock and leaving them? Are they stiff enough to hammer into the studs?


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Ronnie. Saw your riser. Looks great with the veneer and rope light! The stuff I got was 2.00 for 4 feet. Either way, it's cheap. At least the stuff you got has the tape.


I was going to just stick them in the sheet rock, I figured enough of them would do the trick. I think if you put then in a stud, it would have to be shallow. I would expect they would bent trying to get them in the studs too far.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

These hangers you guys are talking about are just used to hold the insulation to the wall right...I guess I have never seen them in action so I am a little confused on what thier purpose is.


Love the rope lighting effect on the section just below the ceiling..i was thinking of doing the star ceiling and painting that part just below it that color or close..now that I see the effect your has I am certain I will go with something similar when it comes time. Would be nice to see how a reflective surface makes it look. If you experiment with that please post some pics as well.


Lookin good Bud


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


Correct on the insulation supports (pseudo T pins I made). There are sections of acoustical cotton that need to be on the wall behind the speakers in my case that need to be attached. The T pins I found that were big enough were just too expensive, so I just made my own.


Bud


----------



## dcdell

Bud- Love the ceiling! I did not have to deal with rope lights "accentuating" the ceiling like you have to but two coats of Georgian Bay seemed to do the trick for me. I just used the "M technique" when painting and walked it from side to side with the best roller they had. I would not get too worked up over slight imperfections. I know there were a couple of spots that I obsessed over at first but when I moved onto another part of the project and went back and looked for them- I could barely even find them. Also, I noticed with the Georgian Bay that the finish evens out more the longer it sits and dries. Looking good...


----------



## chinadog

Hey Doug,


Well you should, since you're the one that got me on the whole Georgian Bay thing to start with! In regular light, it just looks dark. No roller marks or anything. It's only with the rope lights on. Maybe I'll try and get a close up shot.


Thanks for chiming in.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


Some things I do that eliminate roller marks.


1. Prime and paint with a 1/2" nap roller Purdey Brand. 5 bucks but worth every penny and it is thicker for flat paints.

2. When applying paint - make a 4'x4' box and after rolling the entire box - go back and try to make light long strokes looking for what I call heavy edges. Since the edge of the paint roller tends to have an angle - it also tends to put extra paint on the ceiling at the edges and you can use light long strokes to knock that down.

3. when you completely finish painting - grab a new dry cheap roller (usually sold in 6 packs) and using a flashlight - look for wet spots on the ceiling starting at the begining of your painting job and use the dry roller to lightly roll over particularly wet spots to help even out the paint coat.


Hope this helps. It works for me but is by no means professional advice.


I have 2 areas in my theater room that I need to go back and add more mud to help even out some uneven areas too. You have to love how the darker colors highlight the imperfections in the mudding and taping of drywall.










Jason


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jason,


Thanks for the tips. I guess this is cureable!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A few more shots from the weekend. This is my concession area and equipment closet primed. I'm going black in the closet (no need to worry much about roller marks there) and going to use a color called "Blonde" in the concession area. It's like a light goldish color. I was going to try and match the greenish grey in the fabric, but it makes that area too dark. I ordered my new door over the weekend, so I'll be a separate space completely now.


Concession area from the theater room. The storage area will have a solid pine door installed after I paint.










Looking back from the storage room through the concession area. Equipment closet/rack on left side.










Looking through the rack area back through the closet. This is the tinted primer I used on the ceiling in the theater room. I'll be painting it black shortly.










Another shot of the ceiling. The colors remind me of this earth shot. Pretty neat.


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

I think I've made a decision on this, but I figured I'd throw this out for comments and opinions. I had planned to do the Lido fabric the same, both top and bottom of the "chair rail". I actually beveled the furring edges and I think I figured out the technique to install the GOM above and below without a formal chair rail. I was thinking what it would look like to do black GOM on the bottom and the Lido on the top. Because the room is just about 12 feet wide, I think using black on the bottom will be too much. With the dark ceiling and black screenwall/soffit, adding the extra black will make the room seem smaller (at least with the lights on). If the Lido on both top and bottom is too much, I can always break it up and add the chair rail later.


Comments? Here's a couple of shots of the two together.


















Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Here is something I did in my own rope light trays. If you want them to kick out a little more light or make the lighting a little more even, put something reflective below them. Some people use aluminum foil. I used the aluminum duct tape. It costs maybe $5 for a roll and stays in place since it's sticky on one side. Just an option you might want to try while it's still early.


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


Good thought. I actually have some already, I'll do some experimenting. Thanks for the reply.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ran downstairs during lunch today and painted the inside of the equipment closet black. Although not ideal, I had a quart of flat black Rustoleum and used that. I've got some roll marks, but don't care much since it's in the closet. Man, I hate oil based paints.


First shot with concession lights on and no flash, looking through the rack area. Pretty dark!










With flash on:










Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I know its a closet and wont get much viewing time, but have you thought about changing those receptacles out for some black ones? Then again, maybe it makes it easier to find them if they are white.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

I have, while I was painting it actually. I'll see what happens once the rack is in. It could be a phase two thing.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> I was thinking what it would look like to do black GOM on the bottom and the Lido on the top. Because the room is just about 12 feet wide, I think using black on the bottom will be too much. With the dark ceiling and black screenwall/soffit, adding the extra black will make the room seem smaller (at least with the lights on). If the Lido on both top and bottom is too much, I can always break it up and add the chair rail later.



Bud,


I agree. That would be pretty dark given the dimensions. You want your room to feel like you're going to the theater, not spelunking......Everything is looking great, AND you have the advantage of being probably the only person whose equipment closet will never rust










sdspga


----------



## chinadog

sdspga,


LOL. Good thing huh? You never know when drywall will start rusting these days. Between that and the greenboard I used on the outside, I should be all set for those wet days.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.


I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.
> 
> 
> I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!



lektern,


Well thanks! Glad its helped.


Are you in Iraq now? In the military? One of my brother-in-laws is a Marine and was there for the initial invasion. He's back now, thankfully. Be careful over there and stay safe.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.
> 
> 
> I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!




Where in Iraq? I am in Iraq also and unfortunatly...like you it is keeping me from beginning on my build as well. However I am sure that once we get started it will be well worth the wait. Good luck and stay safe....


Robert


----------



## lektern

We're stationed just inside the border of Kuwait. We do convoy security throughout the country of Iraq. I've been almost everywhere there is to be. Got another five months before I can start in on the HT.


----------



## chinadog

Robert and lektern,


Both of you guys stay safe!!!


Just so you guys know, we appreciate what you do. Its guys like you that allow guys like us do the things we do. Hopefully you guys will be home soon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

One coat of paint on the ceiling in the concession area is now done. Will do another coat today during lunch. I'll try and put a coat of paint on the walls in the concession area tonight as well. If I can get two coats on the walls this week, I can get the doors on and move back to the HT full time.


I don't think I have enough Georgian Bay for a third coat, so I need to pick up another can this week. I picked up some Purdy rollers last night as well. The guy at the Depot told me to use 3/8", but I bought more 1/2" anyway.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Forgot to mention this the other day. Neither the local Lowes or HD carried drywall shims. I picked up some insulation rulers (those this that attach to the rafters so they can measure the amount of insulation blown in), which will work in a pinch. I need to try and find a local drywall store (I'll look online as well).


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One coat of paint on the ceiling in the concession area is now done. Will do another coat today during lunch.



Ahhh, the joys of working from home. Unfortunately in my line of work, that would not be possible. However, if I did work from home, I don't think I would get any "work" work done because the HT would constantly pull me away (along with the wife and kids)







Bud, don't know how you stay so focused (on work that is)?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


The kids aren't here during the day, at least, not until the summer. We'll have someone here full time watching them starting in June. My wife is a work-a-holic and she also works out of the house. She spends her entire day upstairs in her office (I'm on the main level), except for lunch and most of the time she misses that. It's like being here alone most of the time.


I also work a lot of odd hours since my development projects use outsourced resources all over the globe. I'm usually working and checking email by 6:30 AM (had a call with China this morning) and I'm usually instant messaging with people during the evening hours elsewhere. People probably have noticed my all hours posts. I only sleep about 6 hours most nights anyway.


It's like you have no standard work schedule, life and work just blend together, especially in this house.










Bud


----------



## sportrac

Bud,

The room is looking nice. There is a drywall store on my side of town that has been prety helpful. it's Tucker Materials. I can PM the number if you need.


Willaim


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sportac,


Thanks. It should start making some good strides over the next couple of weeks. I'll keep that in mind. I'll see if I can find something in Marietta.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Second coat of white ceiling paint in the concession area is complete. Will start working on the walls tonight.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We're stationed just inside the border of Kuwait. We do convoy security throughout the country of Iraq. I've been almost everywhere there is to be. Got another five months before I can start in on the HT.




replied to your message...stay safe bud and keep up the good work!!


Robert


----------



## rsberg34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Robert and lektern,
> 
> 
> Both of you guys stay safe!!!
> 
> 
> Just so you guys know, we appreciate what you do. Its guys like you that allow guys like us do the things we do. Hopefully you guys will be home soon.
> 
> 
> Bud



*(bongggggggg)* We interupt this program to bring you a temporary bit of sappyness....if your prone to choking up....look away for a moment...



Bud,


I appreciate the kind words but Ill pass your appreciation to me on to lektern. He is the one who really deserves it, he is a soldier and is the one who is providing you the peace and freedom to do the things you do...not me. I am here by choice he isnt, except to say he chose to defend his country (which is no small sacrifice I must say). Im a civilian contractor and here for the money this time....ex Army though...been here done this before







So as much as I appreciate it and thank you for your concern and appreciation...its better spent on someone who really deserves it....lektern!!

*(bonggggggggg)* We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.

Thank you










Robert


----------



## rsberg34

Sounds like your making some good progress there Bud...look forward to keeping up with it.


I am a little lost on this drywall shim thing...I hate to ask the obvious question but ....


What are they used for? I know that sounds bad but damned if I know...guess I have never seen one. I have put up a fair amount of drywall over the years as my family is in the rehab and rental business but I guess I just missed them along the line somewhere.


Thanks..Robert


----------



## chinadog

That's Mr. Sappy to you and I so appreciate what these guys do. I have enough family that was in the military to know better.


Apparently (I have not used these before) you put them on the stud prior to drywall if you have a bow in the stud. At least that's what they're made for. I would use them under the GOM for those areas where you can't hide a staple on an edge. You put the GOM to the area, put the cardboard/shim on top, then staple it and pull the GOM back over the shim. Gives you a nice clean, finished edge. I'll post a picture when I get to that point. Hope it helps.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's Mr. Sappy to you and I so appreciate what these guys do. I have enough family that was in the military to know better.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently (I have not used these before) you put them on the stud prior to drywall if you have a bow in the stud. At least that's what they're made for. I would use them under the GOM for those areas where you can't hide a staple on an edge. You put the GOM to the area, put the cardboard/shim on top, then staple it and pull the GOM back over the shim. Gives you a nice clean, finished edge. I'll post a picture when I get to that point. Hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL...I didnt mean you were being sappy...I meant what I was about to say was sappy...sappy but true!! I believe those that earn the praise should darn well get it!! I am the only one in my family (dating back many generations) that spent time in the military and deployed to combat but I (as well as my family) are right there with you Bud on your line of thinking, we appreciate thier service as well!! ...just call us the Sappy twins











That would be great...I probably havent put up as much drywall as you (since your kinda in the business) but I just havent seen these shims or even heard of them til now. Would love to see them put to use....especially on the tough edge/GOM application (cant quite picture how to finish it off once the GOM is pulled back over top the shim). Thats ok though I am sure once I see your pics I will get it.


Keep up the good work....


Robert


----------



## rsberg34

No sooner than I posted that reply I think I pictured the corner thing...


Staple the GOM on the corner/edge with the shim on top, fold over the shim and run the fabric to the next edge that you can hide the staples on and staple it there....Is that right?


I hate that when I feel like a dummy and as soon as I ask a question the answer comes to me...lol


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Exactly. Here's a thread or four that describes the GOM processes. I'll be going back through these shortly. There is a few pictures of the sequence somewhere, just haven't found it yet.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=381979 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=577426 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=535806 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=519111 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

One coat of Sherwin Williams "Blonde - 6128" in the concession area. When it's dry, I'll go back and touch up the wall defects with a little mud, sand and throw another coat up. It's like a goldish/beige color, like wheat beer. The pictures don't quite look like the room. Oh well. Boy is that equipment closet dark! Gotta like that Rustoleum! Also, once I figure out the stain, I can start working on the crown in the room, but that'll be after GOM.



















Bud


----------



## Toxarch

You can do the fabric without the shims/cardboard and make it look better using a different method. I might have mentioed it in one of those threads. Leave the firring strip out where you want to have a clean look. Staple the GoM to either the side of the firring strip or to the back of the firring strip. After the fabric is attached to the firring strip, then install the firring strip on the wall and stretch the fabric like you want it. You never have to worry about the cardboard or shims failing under the fabric. I know I posted drawings in one thread somewhere that shows how to do it in a corner so that you have a single seam in the corner with no staples showing and no need for trim. You just have to hide the fabric ends and staples between two firring strips. I'll see if I can find the thread for you tomorrow so that you have an option when you get to your fabric.


----------



## ebr

I agree, Tox - using the furring makes a better (and easier) edge. But, I think this whole "shim" option came up because Bud had a place where he was going to have no furring...


----------



## lektern

Looking great Bud, keep it up. Where did you do your IR Retransmitter research and Remote lighting research?

I think I saw you ordered the Yamaha RXV2600, how do you like it?

I'm also looking at the Ascend 340's for front and center. Thinking about the HTM-200s for middle and rear.


Thanks everyone for the appreciation. It makes it much easier to be here knowing people appreciate the great things we're accomplishing here.


----------



## chinadog

Tox,


Eric is correct. I'm actually planning on using the technique you describe for the corners, although since I beveled the edges of the furring strips, it may be a a little different where the pieces meet. I'll figure it out. The area that I was thinking of the cardboard/shim was right where the sub sections meet the side walls. I may just put a small furring strip in there to solve that problem.


Thanks for the replies.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where did you do your IR Retransmitter research and Remote lighting research?
> 
> I think I saw you ordered the Yamaha RXV2600, how do you like it?
> 
> I'm also looking at the Ascend 340's for front and center. Thinking about the HTM-200s for middle and rear.



Thanks. I researched it here on AVS. I was a little biased with X10 since I have it already in my house. The Graphic Eye is nice, but a little expensive. Turns out it probably would have been cheaper for me anyway after all the dimmers and extras I bought. I'm considering now replacing my PCS SMST6 scene controller with an Insteon one. I'm still digging into that some, but will post when I know whats up. The IR stuff is pretty common on AVS. Now that I've got my equipment closet painted, I can finish out that stuff as well.


You'll love the Ascends. Great speakers for the money. I really enjoy mine. I like my 2600. Some people have had issues with it, but so far, so good. I went with it versus the 2500 because of the HDMI switching. There were some initial setup quirks I had to figure out, but got through it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Need another opinion. I want to order the trims for the cans. For the stage and riser, I'll use 4" trims with black baffles. For the concession area, 6 inch trims with white baffles. Not sure what to do with a ceiling that's Georgian Bay. I don't want white for sure, but should I just get black trim and baffles or buy white and paint them Georgian Blue? I want to order them in the next day or so. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Need another opinion. I want to order the trims for the cans. For the stage and riser, I'll use 4" trims with black baffles. For the concession area, 6 inch trims with white baffles. Not sure what to do with a ceiling that's Georgian Bay. I don't want white for sure, but should I just get black trim and baffles or buy white and paint them Georgian Blue? I want to order them in the next day or so. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bud



I vote to paint them GB to blend in with the ceiling.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Steve.


What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve.
> 
> 
> What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.
> 
> 
> Bud



I think the black baffles would look great. You also have to consider the heat generated by the bulb. I do not think if you painted the baffles with GB, that it would stand up too well -- bubbling, etc.


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve.
> 
> 
> What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.
> 
> 
> Bud



That's the way I would go. In fact, its the way I'm going to go. I will have black baffles but will paint the trim my ceiling color.


----------



## chinadog

I expect that these cans will be only on once in a while. I have it set up to do a scene when you enter the theater room and includes all of the accent lighting, not the main cans. I'll probably only use the for vacuuming. Good point about the heat though.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud - on the Insteon controller/keypad, I think you have some of these anyway so you may know about this, but I've heard the lighting for the buttons is quite bright. Too bright for something like a dedicated theater room.


I have four of them, but they're just sitting in a box waiting for the house to get to electrical trim out stage so I can't verify this myself yet.


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Was looking at the user guide for one model and I think you can dim the button lights. Let me double check. My other controller could as well. The problem with the SMST6 I have is that now is it only works remotely, you can't send it X10 commands. It only transmits them. So for it to work with the harmony 880, I have to point at the stupid thing. I don't really feel like sticking an emitter on it either. The controller is located by the door between the 1st and 2nd rows, so it may not be too bad.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Again, I haven't actually seen it myself, but the person who complained about this said the two brightness settings were "bright" and "unbelievably bright"







.


Just something to be aware of. Let us know what you think if you try it out.


----------



## chinadog

Eric, take a look at page 24 of the User Guide (PDF) for the Insteon KeypadLinc V2 Dimmer . Not sure if what he has is the same.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just saw you other post about two settings. User guide confirms that. I was thinking you could change out the labels on the buttons with a darker color. Hmmm. I may just get one and try it out.


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


I bought white trim/baffles for mine (didn't even know they came in black) and painted them black. They are not on much so have no problem with paint overheating. If you aren't going to be generating too much heat, I would vote for painting both GB as they will blend in great. Mine are much, much better since painting the same color as the ceiling. Too bad I didn't have any of that black Rustoleum when I painted










Scott


----------



## documentarymaker

gents -

May I reccomend black (charcoal/gas) grill paint. High temp tolerance and _usually_ flat black.

I have from this monday when the fixtures arrive until the following monday when the electrician comes to get all of mine painted. Shouldn't take more than a day to paint all 9 and get them ready for install.


Kevin -


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Good evening Bud. Have you had a chance to test out those insulation hangers yet?


Also, my experience with the BBQ paint is that it turns out more grey than black. At least the two that I tried out. I think you should paint the cans with the GB paint and install the black trims.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


Have not yet. Still have my bass traps queued up on my list. I should get to it this weekend though hopefully.


Bud


----------



## larryep

like the color Bud. It is coming along nice. Myself i am finishing the rest of the basement. I think I will be going with sherwin williams paint also. They had a home show this past weekend in st. louis. sherwin williams had a good deisplay wall of color that caught my eye. I will be sticking to one pallet of color and use 4 different colors on the pallet.


larryep


----------



## chinadog

Hey Larry,


I decided I needed to wrap up the theater and concession area first. We have some relatives coming into town in mid April and would like to get it done and show it off. The rest of the basement is on hold until I get it done. The only thing for me is the flooring and carpet, that may have to wait. I might just run out of time before they arrive. I'm also going to get very busy with work in the next few weeks, so I'll be busy trying to get it done before it gets pushed out all together.


I really like Sherwin Williams paint. I've used Duron, Porter, Behr, Ralph Lauren, but so far I like the Sherwin Williams paint the best.


Bud


----------



## larryep

glad to hear the good use of sherwin williams paint. I will be stopping by a store today for more pallet of color samples. You never realized how close to a store is until you need to go to it. Sherwin Williams store is just 3 miles away and I never new it was there.


----------



## ebr

Just FYI - Duron and SW are now the same. I always liked SW too (better than Duron) but the best paint I've come across is Benjamin Moore. You pay for it though...


----------



## rsberg34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Larry,
> 
> 
> I decided I needed to wrap up the theater and concession area first. We have some relatives coming into town in mid April and would like to get it done and show it off. The rest of the basement is on hold until I get it done. The only thing for me is the flooring and carpet, that may have to wait. I might just run out of time before they arrive. I'm also going to get very busy with work in the next few weeks, so I'll be busy trying to get it done before it gets pushed out all together.
> 
> 
> I really like Sherwin Williams paint. I've used Duron, Porter, Behr, Ralph Lauren, but so far I like the Sherwin Williams paint the best.
> 
> 
> Bud




Good news for us thread lurkers....not to mention you get more wow factor showing off a first class home theater than you do the rest of the basement....

EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD MOVIE!!


Robert


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead and ordered my can trims for the HT room and concession area. I think I'll do the GB trims with black baffles. Worst case is I can try them out later. I also ordered bulbs online! Never did that before. Seemed to be pretty cheaper and I bought them by the case, so I'll have a few extras when I need them. I just hope they don't arrive broken.


Called Smarthome about the Insteon switch, but the hold wait was 15 minutes, so I left a message and hopefully someone will call me back.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Picked up another can of Georgian Bay today. I also put up the second coat of Blonde in the concession area. Tomorrow AM, I'll do the third coat (and hopefully last) on the ceiling in the HT room. I'll go ahead and install the two doors in the concession area that I have and get them in, then move over to the base traps (hopefully) before the baseball game. I'm hoping I can start the black fabric on the soffits on Sunday morning. The wife has a shower in the early afternoon, so I'll be watching the kids Sunday afternoon.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...The wife has a shower in the early afternoon, so I'll be watching the kids Sunday afternoon.
> 
> 
> Bud



C'mon Bud, don't let that stop you!


Put the kids to work...











(handiwork of my son - age 4 at the time)


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?


In my last two rooms you could see the difference between poly batting and linacoustic behind the fabric so I had to cover the whole thing with cheap, thin, black fabric to make it look uniform.


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?
> 
> 
> In my last two rooms you could see the difference between poly batting and linacoustic behind the fabric so I had to cover the whole thing with cheap, thin, black fabric to make it look uniform.




EBR, Where you using GOM? If not, what type of fabric where you using?




EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you DID use GOM (a very light color). I guess I should look around before I post questions.










Ronnie


----------



## garykagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve.
> 
> 
> What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.
> 
> 
> Bud



that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.


Just search for this: Indoor Recessed Light Trim RXTM-603B Lighting Trims


Gary


----------



## ebr

Just FYI - the same deals can be found on the USALight site directly - and they have a lot of options. I bought some of my cans from them and they have good service. I found out that they were electronic transformers and my GE would require an interface to dim them. Since the interface cost more than a whole new set of 4" cans I returned the low voltage ones. Thing is, it was like three months later and they gladly took them back.


The prices on those trims actually scare me a little bit though as the Halo ones at Lowes cost over three times as much. Gary, please let us know when you get yours if they seem to be of good quality. Thanks.


----------



## garykagan

Sure, I'll gladly be the guinea pig. I'll buy one and if they are good, I'll buy more...


Gary


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?



Have not yet. It does hide the drywall portions though. If I have to, I'll spray paint it!


Bud


----------



## ebr

I guess Bud just got the kids to bed...










(me too)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.
> 
> 
> Gary



I actually ordered all the trims for the 4" cans, the concession area and the rest of the HT room through the Lighting, Fixtures, and Ceiling Fan store . It's where I got my 4" cans. Reasonable prices. I even ordered a few cases of bulbs for the whole basement. They ended up to be about half of what I would have paid at Home Depot. Hopefully all that arrive this week.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess Bud just got the kids to bed...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (me too)



Actually they're still up, bathed and PJed, but going any minute.







I had few spare mintues..


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, this is what I got done this weekend.


Yesterday I applied what I hope to be the last coat on the ceiling in the HT room. I have not put the rope light back up, so not sure how the roller marks stand. Hung the door to the storage room and hung the door to the equipment closet. Both doors I had to pull a hinge off and mortise it out since it didn't sit right or close right. Pain in the butt. Put the ceiling vent back on in the concession area.


Today, I GOMed the front soffit, left and right soffits and a third of the large soffit. I used a combination of furring strips and used the Fabricmate track in strategic spots. worked well. I decided to just GOM over my in-ceiling surrounds. I thought through it and decided if required, I can go back and do the panel thing. Looks pretty clean as is.


Pictures to come, just a little tired to drag my ass downstairs again.


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Hey Bud.

I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.

I just finished Friday.

What a PITA.

2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.


It actually looks fine now unless there's a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.

Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.


If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.

My metal 4 trims had white rings and black baffles.


I painted the rings to match the ceiling.

Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.

Not good.

I set up my lighted, 5x magnified hobby lamp. What a life saver.

I used a small foam brush.


The caveat:

Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.

The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.

Hey what's one more extra effort after about 300 of them?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> C'mon Bud, don't let that stop you!
> 
> 
> Put the kids to work...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (handiwork of my son - age 4 at the time)



Right back at you, pal....











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are the doors I installed on Saturday. Still need to stain them (stain everything), install casing, crown, and base.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some shots of the Black GOM installed. I had the 1000W halogens on to take the picture, it's pretty dark, to the point where you can't really see much blue on the ceiling unless the rope light is on.


It wasn't bad at all, if you have the right tools and think it through a little. I also used some of the fabricmate track under the soffits, which works out great really. It's expensive, but for a few areas, its not bad. BTW, the quote GOM as being 66 inches. I assume that means 66 _usable inches_. It's closer to 70 inches, but has a white edge on both sides.



































You'll notice that I did not do around the projector. I need to finish out the projector box still. Once I have that done, I'll mount it then install the fabricate track around the perimeter of it, then install the GOM. I wanted to use the fabricmate tracking in case I ever had to get int he ceiling, move or switch the projector, etc. Gives me some flexibility.


Bud


----------



## nosdude

I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few "how I did GOM" shots.


First thing I did was to lay down some craft paper (Home Depot, like 9.00 for a roll). I put it down because even sweeping a million times, I know there is still drywall dust and other stuff on the ground. I wanted to make sure the GOM wasn't going to get all dirty. Used painters tape to tape the seams. I also took my shoes off so I could walk on it.










I glued up all the fabricmate tracking with construction adhesive and drywall screws. I used fabricmate tracks where two seams met on the soffit. The track comes in 5 foot lengths, but you can butt pieces together easier. In the second shot you can see where I did this. This was under the soffit by the projector.


















You need the right tools. I picked this stapler up on ebay for about 45.00. I'm using 1" staples. Also, you need really good scissors. I used a pair my wife had for material. I think they're Fiscars or something. I also used a silver Sharpie to draw lines in the material. Works well against the black. Works great on Linacoustic as well.


















After cutting the material to length, I would temporarily put the fabric up with push pins. I'd line a bunch of push pins on the the linacoustic right below the area I was doing. I'd start in the corner (or the middle if working not on a corner) and start putting putting in push pins.


----------



## chinadog

I'd then start putting in staples starting again in the corner and working my way down the wall (again, if doing a piece not in the corner, it's probably best to start in the middle and go one way or the other. Prior to starting the adjacent wall, I would temporarily pull the GOM and push it in the track on the opposite side, so there is no sags. I would assume if you're not using track, you would use push pins or a few staples just to hold it. I would work my way down the wall, pulling out the push pins and pulling the GOM towards the wall to keep it taunt. I would then do the adjacent wall using the same method, stapling as I go, pulling out the pins. Once I get to the track, I started in the same direction as I did the first wall, pushing the fabric into the track using a putty knife. This pulls the GOM pretty tight. On the end where the trey is, I just temporarily pulled it and tacked in with push pins in place.


















After pushing the fabric into the track the whole way, there is some excess still. I carefully cut along a line and leave about half an inch extra. The track is 1" deep, so that leave about 1 1/2 inches or material for the track. I just then push all the extra fabric once trimmed into the track.


















At this point, most of the material is now up. Now I need to tie it into the other seam and finish out the corner of the trey. I trimmed off the extra material where the corner of the soffit is, ensuring that I do leave enough and not cutting too much off. The extra now is at the seam where the side soffit begins. I start pushing that side into the shared seam. One I have enough pushed into the track, I trim the excess again, leaving about 1/2 inch. From there, I push that extra into the track and have a nice butted seam.


----------



## chinadog

Now I need to tackle the corner of the trey. I used these cardboard insulation rulers I found, although drywall shims were recommended to me and are probably choice. I left enough material to wrap (fold over) the cardboard shim and work it into the corner. It left a decent line, probably could have been better with drywall shims though. I then temporarily pulled the GOM tight up in the soffit, which puts tensions on the folded over area. I then switched out my stapler for my brad nailer and used 1" brads in the corner to firm up the cardboard strips and hold the material down. I then made user there were no wrinkles by working the material sideways while at the same time pulling the GOM up over the soffit and stapling there. Done!


































I had to go back and trim out the 4" can at this point, so I went felt around for it, then decided to just turn on the damn light. Stapled around the perimeter, then cut it out with a razor knife and cleaned it up with scissors. I plan on using Ronnie's technique to cover the staples and trim it out.


















Here's what the crown will look like (granted this is not stained, or even stain grade crown) once installed.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud.
> 
> I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.
> 
> I just finished Friday.
> 
> What a PITA.
> 
> 2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.
> 
> 
> It actually looks fine now unless there's a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.
> 
> Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.
> 
> 
> If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.
> 
> My metal 4 trims had white rings and black baffles.
> 
> 
> I painted the rings to match the ceiling.
> 
> Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.
> 
> Not good.
> 
> I set up my lighted, 5x magnified hobby lamp. What a life saver.
> 
> I used a small foam brush.
> 
> 
> The caveat:
> 
> Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.
> 
> The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.
> 
> Hey what's one more extra effort after about 300 of them?



Thanks Milt, will keep that in mind!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nosdude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx



Will do.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tracks for the rope light arrived.










Bud


----------



## jikkjack

VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!


Jason


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!
> 
> 
> Jason



Thanks dude. Gettin' there....


Bud


----------



## barhoram

Bud,


What style of the fabricmate track did you use? I need to build 2 panels to attach around my frame where my speakers will be and am trying to figure out what style of the track will work the best. Thanks.


----------



## chinadog

Barhoram,


I used the 1" FS-150. Works great. They have a beveled edge version as well.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

BUd


That blue ceiling really looks great next to that black GOM and you did a really good job with the GOM too.....looks awsome!!


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Robert.


You don't really notice the blue unless the rope light is on. I played around with metallic tape some under the rope light, didn't make much of a difference. What mattered was how far away the rope light was from the wall. If you pull it away from the wall, it looks light blue on the sides and top. If its against the wall, you get dark blue on the sides and light blue on top. Haven't made a decision yet which way to go. I'll need to get the tracking up this week.


The GOM wasn't bad really. The GOM has some stretch to it, enough to pull out wrinkles and stuff. I'm not sure I bought enough black GOM to do the screen wall, I'll find out in the next day or two and order it with the wall fabric.


Bud


----------



## swithey











Bud,


Does the ceiling color look darker in person? I ran the "night sky" ceiling color by my wife yesterday and she liked the idea.


Also, I may spray my ceiling just to avoid roller marks (maybe







). Maybe I can get away with (2) coats and call it a day.


BTW -- great job on the GOM application.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks.


That's the color, but the color you see in the GOM photos has 1000W (literally) shown on it. Without the rope lights on and the main cans on, it looks almost black with a hint of blue. With the rope lights on, the center looks grey with light blue/dark blue around the edges. It's very dark and most people wouldn't realize its blue without the rope light on.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Took three more shots for you (pardon the blurriness).


The first is what I would call "pre-movie". Push a button on my controller and all the lights go on (minus the cans in the main ceiling and rope light on).










The second is with the rope light off. I left the stage cans on or you'd be pretty dark. Notice the ceiling is hardly there at all ( I can see it in the original photo *barely*, but in this picture you can't really see it).










Last is with main cans on, but again, no rope light. Whats interesting about this shot is you can see some blue around the perimeter, even without the rope light, but look how dark the ceiling looks.










If you've seen the infamous Milano blue, it's the same effect, although brighter since it's a lighter blue. Looks like a dark grey middle with the rope light on, but light around the sides.


Hope this helps.


Bud


----------



## sdspga

4 gallons of Sherwin Williams Georgian Bay - $120

21 yards of black GOM - $250

Having a theater as cool as Bud's - Priceless!


Bud,



Looking forward to the final push to the finish line before your company arrives. Theater is looking absolutely fantastic! Anxious for more AE-900 reviews when you are up and running. I have the 700 and want to know if an upgrade is in order. Keep on rolling!


Scott


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Thanks man. It's going to be a tight squeeze time-wise, but it'll be close... I'll keep the reviews in mind as well.


Bud


----------



## air2mag

Bud,

I just wanted to say thank you for all your posts. I don't think you realize how much help this is for us. I have just started on my theater (received my cotton from Bryan yesterday!) and I have been using your thread as my reference book. Please know the extra hours you spend taking pictures, explaining procedures, and answering questions is not in vain!


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Another followup and another example of ceiling color.


These shots are from CaptainRandy's theater ( www.cinemamurray.com ) and he has the Milano Blue ceiling. As you can see, it's very light blue-purple color and towards the center, you see it greys out some with the rope lights on. When the lights are off, the ceiling turns completely grey. I wanted something a little darker.

http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...D983D611D7.jpg 
http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...7F83D611D7.jpg 


Thanks for the images Randy!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Air2mag,


No sweat. I found when I started looking through AVS that there is so much material to review, that I wanted to post as much as possible when I did mine. I found those other threads that went into details with pictures and descriptions really helped as well. I just hope if there is something that is not clear or I missed that someone reading this thread would keep me honest and let me know. I do get a fair amount of PMs asking questions and I'm ok with that. If people would post to the thread, then someone else may have the same question. Either way is fine though!


There have been a lot of people here who have also questioned ideas that steered me in other directions and thats great. I don't know all this stuff, so its nice to get opinions, fresh thinking and another set of eyes on things. I appreciate all the comments. Hey, we're all here to learn and enjoy!


Thanks for the post.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I started the screen wall. Some of these pictures are DARK! I hope you guys can still make things out. Remember this? So far it's working out nicely.










First thing is first. I cut a section of GOM, rolled it up and put it aside for the last section around the projector. Then I took the screen off.


After I took the screen off, I laid out the fabric on the wall and use my trusty push pins to secure it. I left a few inches on the sides. I used the same technique, starting in the middle and worked in one direction, removing the push pins as I went, pulling the fabric taunt and putting in staples. You can barely make out the pins, they're clear


















Next thing I did was put a few pins in the sides to hold the fabric taunt across the middle. I then proceeded to cut out the area behind the screen. I left a few inches all the way around the screen in order to use that slack to pull the GOM around the framing. I did the top and sides and left the bottom untouched initially.


















I started stapling from the middle of the screen and wrapping the GOM under and around the framing and worked my way in one direction. When I got to the corner, I cut a 45 degree angle in the fabric to the corner, then finished stapling. I did the other direction, then moved to the sides and worked my way down. After completing both sides, I tacked down the bottom part of the screen so I could lay it out and cut the remaining GOM.










I trimmed off the excess and put that aside. I stapled the the GOM onto the horizontal top of the framing and removed the pins as I went. Once it was secure to the top portion of the framing, I started to wrap the bottom portion of the GOM on the underneath side. I would make slits in the GOM where it hit a stud.










Now the large area is done, I then repeated the process for the sections where the left and right channels will be located. These will be covered with panels. I did both sides and as before, I left a few extra inches where I cut it out, could wrap it, cut the corners at 45 degrees and stapled.










Continued...


----------



## chinadog

Look Ma, no seams!










Next thing was to put the screen bracket back up. I had marked the bracket on center, remeasured the center and lined up the two marks. I then felt around for the existing bracket holes, put the screws in and leveled it.










Finally I put the screen back up and centered it.










Next step for me is to build the panels and trim out the bottom.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Another followup and another example of ceiling color.
> 
> 
> These shots are from CaptainRandy's theater ( www.cinemamurray.com ) and he has the Milano Blue ceiling. As you can see, it's very light blue-purple color and towards the center, you see it greys out some with the rope lights on. When the lights are off, the ceiling turns completely grey. I wanted something a little darker.
> 
> http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...D983D611D7.jpg
> http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...7F83D611D7.jpg
> 
> 
> Thanks for the images Randy!
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Thanks for all the pics of the paint. I'll show them to the wife and see what she want to do.


BTW -- is your rope lighting white or amber? I was originally thinking amber/yellow but think white may be the way to go (since the white has a yellow hue to it anyway at dimmed levels).


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


It's frosted white. If you go clear, it may not diffuse as evenly (so I'm told) , but no direct experience with it. Looks like Ronnie used clear around his riser and seems fine. Also, another thing to keep in mind about the "greying out" in the middle of the ceiling when using Milano or even Georgian Bay. When I saw Milano Blue at DEs place, the area of the ceiling was much wider than mu little 8x10 trey. If the area is more spread out, the darker the center will be. Also, it might make a difference how deep the trey is (mine turned out to be maybe 7-8 inches. If your rope light is close or farther from the ceiling, might be a different effect as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My trim and baffles arrived for the HT room and the concession area. I painted the 4" trims flat black with my trusty Rustoleum. Already applied the second coat. I'll do the Milt lamp test to try it out. I picked up one of those aerosol sprayers with the jar on it tonight and sprayed the four 6" trims GB. The sprayer requires latex paint to use a 3:1 ratio with water, so I went a ahead an gave it a shot. Looks OK, may need another coat or two. I'll give it another coat in the morning and see what happens. I may just use a foam brush as well if it doesn't work. Anybody use one of these things? I also installed the three white trim/baffles in the concession area. Bulbs shipped, not sure when they're arrive. I also need to extend the trim a little using Ronnie's technique.

*AND last but not least, I ordered 33 yards of GOM for the walls today!*


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

WOW. I have not had time to look at your thread for a few days because I am out of town. You have been very busy. Its starting to come together quite well.


Now I have to go home and catch up










Ronnie


----------



## rlowe

Hey Bud,


I ran into you in Steve's threat and just want to say nice work on your room. I admire you guys starting from scratch. I have a pre-built room with my house, but now I am putting the finishing touches on it.


I look forward to watching your progress.


Randy


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy,


Thanks. In the home stretch now ... for the HT anyway.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WOW. I have not had time to look at your thread for a few days because I am out of town. You have been very busy. Its starting to come together quite well.
> 
> 
> Now I have to go home and catch up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



You snooze, you loose.







Still need to work on the traps, its on my short list. I'll keep you posted on the home made T pins. I'm hoping the GOM for the walls will be here before the end of the week, it ships out of NC.


What Dremel bit did you use to cut your rings? I have so many, not sure whats what. I was thinking of using a drywall bit.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just got an email from Yvette at Fabricmate, looks like the wall fabric will be here by EOD on Friday!


Bud


----------



## air2mag

Bud,

I like the way you decided to mount your projector. I am going to steal your design and try to incorporate my mounting system into my rear soffit. My question in on your air duct for the projector. Are you going to be sucking air away from the projector or blowing air to it? I have the Pany 700 and the air intake is on the side with the discharge on the front. ( I think the 900 is the same?) Since the back portion of my projector will be tucked away in the soffit, I was planning on mounting one end of a four inch air duct by the projector and running the other end out to the unfinished side of my basement. I would use one of the four inch inline fans to blow air to the projector. I will probably tie the fan's power into the projector control so they both come on at the same time. Do you think this will work?

Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Sounds like what I'm doing actually.


The vent that you see in front of the projector is to pull the heat away from the projector. If you look behind the projector, you can see a thermostat that will kick on when required. This will be inclosed in the projector box. At the end of the 4" duct ia an inline fan that dumps out in my workshop.


The AE900 vents from fropm the front corner, in my case, since its ceiling mounted, it's the left side. Table or shelf mounted, it'll be the right side. The intake is from the back corner on the same side as the exhaust.


The projector box, when complete, will be used really to hide the projector, versus trying to "hush" it. I want to make sure it has plenty of room and ventilation. I just don't want to see it hanging there. I'm thinking about a new design for the projector box that will allow me to mount it under the soffit, but the sides will be hinged to allow me to get to everything easily. Still thinking through it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My extra door arrived!


I'll probably run over tomorrow to Home Depot to get it, some double sided tape for the rope light tracks, some biscuits and some lumber to build the panels for the front screen wall.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> It's frosted white. If you go clear, it may not diffuse as evenly (so I'm told) , but no direct experience with it. Looks like Ronnie used clear around his riser and seems fine. Also, another thing to keep in mind about the "greying out" in the middle of the ceiling when using Milano or even Georgian Bay. When I saw Milano Blue at DEs place, the area of the ceiling was much wider than mu little 8x10 trey. If the area is more spread out, the darker the center will be. Also, it might make a difference how deep the trey is (mine turned out to be maybe 7-8 inches. If your rope light is close or farther from the ceiling, might be a different effect as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Did you get your frosted rope lighting from HD or over the Internet? If over the Internet, where?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Did you get your frosted rope lighting from HD or over the Internet? If over the Internet, where?



I bought it from Noveltylights.com. I bought the 150 roll. I have extra is I have any problems, plus I use it in the tents outdoors on the deck when we have parties and movie nights.

http://noveltylights.com/Rope_light2.htm 


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Bud,

I just starting "GOMing".

Much thanks for the construction paper tip & push pin tips.

Simple, cheap and effective.


Nice job on the screen wall, BTW.

You are truly in the home stretch!


I hope you don't mind me sharing a tip on cutting GOM.

A woman at worked recommended an Olfa fabric cutter.

It's like a small pizza cutter but razor sharp.

Makes extremely clean cuts.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought it from Noveltylights.com. I bought the 150 roll. I have extra is I have any problems, plus I use it in the tents outdoors on the deck when we have parties and movie nights.
> 
> http://noveltylights.com/Rope_light2.htm
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud.


Question -- I assume I need to buy at least one of the 6' Connector kits to power this rope lighting -- right? Or can you just use a few twist-on electrical caps and hard-wire it to the power (which will eventually get hooked to an Insteon Dimmer module).


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What Dremel bit did you use to cut your rings? I have so many, not sure whats what. I was thinking of using a drywall bit.
> 
> 
> Bud



I think it was the drywall bit. It was the cutting bit with the tip that allowed you to plunge into the material. A cutting bit with a drillbit tip if that makes any sense.


Ronnie


----------



## Brian Ravnaas

you fellas that have the detailed construction threads should band together and make some type of book or pay-site.


i can't imagine there wouldn't be demand, or that it wouldn't make a great read.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I just starting "GOMing".
> 
> Much thanks for the construction paper tip & push pin tips.
> 
> Simple, cheap and effective.
> 
> 
> Nice job on the screen wall, BTW.
> 
> You are truly in the home stretch!
> 
> 
> I hope you don't mind me sharing a tip on cutting GOM.
> 
> A woman at worked recommended an Olfa fabric cutter.
> 
> It's like a small pizza cutter but razor sharp.
> 
> Makes extremely clean cuts.



Good one! Where do you get such a beast? Joans? Milt, where are your pictures, man?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud.
> 
> 
> Question -- I assume I need to buy at least one of the 6' Connector kits to power this rope lighting -- right? Or can you just use a few twist-on electrical caps and hard-wire it to the power (which will eventually get hooked to an Insteon Dimmer module).



I bought the 150 foot, which included like 4 power cords, connectors, end caps, etc. I used on of the 6 foot connectors for mine, just have it laid flat on the cove. Are you thinking of getting a custom length? Not sure on the twist on caps.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Ravnaas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you fellas that have the detailed construction threads should band together and make some type of book or pay-site.
> 
> 
> i can't imagine there wouldn't be demand, or that it wouldn't make a great read.



Hey Brian,


Anytime you feel the need to send money, just PM me. I accept




















Bud


----------



## Brian Ravnaas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Brian,
> 
> 
> Anytime you feel the need to send money, just PM me. I accept
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


i really would send funds, but currently all my assets are tied up as i am suing myself in a court of law.


but don't worry, i know i'm going to win the case, and a big settlement.


Brian


----------



## mastiff34




> Quote:
> i really would send funds, but currently all my assets are tied up as i am suing myself in a court of law.
> 
> 
> but don't worry, i know i'm going to win the case, and a big settlement.



ROFL, I need to try that !!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?



I played around with the *large* (6x6) sample and from what I can tell, it's not visible. It's a tighter weave than the FR701, but you can still put it up to the light and see through it.


Bud


----------



## bdtank

Bud- quick question. How thick are your firring strips on the wall? I too am putting up 1" Linacoustic and am trying to decide if I need to custom rip some 2x2 to exactly 1" or just go with 1 x 2 at 3/4 ". I'm not too sure how important it is that the GOM is exactly flush with the insulation behind it to prevent sagging or stretching from bumping, etc.. I am assuming this is the reason many folks use the poly batting on the top halves of their panels as well.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought the 150 foot, which included like 4 power courses, connectors, end caps, etc. I used on of the 6 foot connectors for mine, just have it laid flat on the cove. Are you thinking of getting a custom length? Not sure on the twist on caps.
> 
> 
> Bud



I am considering that. I only need like 60'. Thats about $70 from novelty lights. Might be worth then extra $35 to have a spare 90' for "future" projects (or to replace this rope lighting when it burns out).


I may also go LED rope lighting, but 60' of that would cost me about $400 from this place http://www.wiedamark.com/ . Good stuff but may be a bit pricey for such a small length.


----------



## chinadog

Tank,


I've heard you can use 3/4 inch without a problem. The linacoustic will compress some. I was originally going to use 2X lumber and rip them down to 1" furring strips, but found 5/4 (five quarter) lumber at Home Depot in the hardwood section. It's actual width is 1". I think its about 4-5 inches wide and 9 feet long. I just ripped/beveled them in half for the middle of the wall seams, but used them full width around the areas that I'll install the molding over. I didn't plan on a chair rail to hide the seams. Depending on how it comes out, I can also go back and add it to break it up some.


The GOM is pretty tough. I tried to pull it off a spot where I put a staple in it and it took a good yank. Its got some stretch to it, but not that much. Sagging and stretching should not be a problem if it's secured properly. It does cut pretty easily though, so sharp objects are a no-no.


On the batting, I think people think they need to put something behind the GOM to fill the void. There is some acoustic properties for highs with batting as well. I originally was going to Linacoustic the soffits, but decided not to do so after speaking with Bryan about it. I was then stuck with a void behind the soffit GOM of 1", but you'd never tell. It's pretty tight. I have the batting in the other room. Bryan's analysis doesn't call for it, so I'm not putting it up.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am considering that. I only need like 60'. Thats about $70 from novelty lights. Might be worth then extra $35 to have a spare 90' for "future" projects (or to replace this rope lighting when it burns out).
> 
> 
> I may also go LED rope lighting, but 60' of that would cost me about $400 from this place http://www.wiedamark.com/ . Good stuff but may be a bit pricey for such a small length.



I like to have the spare stuff for when/if any sections burn out. I can replace it in no time flat. I only need about 40 feet, so that's enough to replace it two times. I also have it for those other occasions when I need it.


----------



## bpape

If you want something behind the GOM just for rigidity purposes, I've seen some people use styro- board 1" thick. It's basically inert acoustically but will tend to damp the drywall which would negate any positive effect in terms of bass absorbtion. All a matter of priorities.


----------



## HeyNow^

I bought a 150' spool of clear. As everyone already knows, the clear yellows over time. I replace my rope every couple of years. You will use whats left on future projects as well.


----------



## ginigma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I may also go LED rope lighting, but 60' of that would cost me about $400 from this place http://www.wiedamark.com/ . Good stuff but may be a bit pricey for such a small length.



What product are you specifically looking at there? I'm looking at the LED flex neon http://www.wiedamark.com/index.asp?P...S&Category=139 

Anyone have any experience with this?


----------



## chinadog

My 35W PARs arrived for my 4" cans today. I needed five, but you have to buy by the case. So, I ended up with 15! Not a problem, I'll have neough for the next 10 years. They're much cheaper to buy online, even if you have to get a case. I bought these through PECLamp.com and they were less than 3.00 each.


I also bought a case of 65W BR30 Sylvanias for the rest of the larger floods. 30 to a case, I think I neeed 21. The case was 46.50 plus shipping. I little cheaper than 7.00 a bulb at Home Depot. I got these through Goodmart.com .


When I ordered my trims and baffles, I also picked up 5 of the socket extenders for the 4" cans. Since I had to build the frames around the cans to staples the GOM to and though I'd be doing linacoustic under the soffits, I picked them up. Turns out I ended up needing them. Kinda pricey for what they are, but does the trick. Here a shot of the bulb and extender.










Although I still need to make the rings for the trims, I went ahead and installed them and the bulbs. Here's what it looks like with the third bulb and the trim now.










Flash on from the side:










Flash off from the side:










The middle buld looks a little yellowish from the picture, but in person, not a hint of yellow with me looking at it.


Bud


----------



## bdtank

Bud-thanks so much for the quick response-I'll probably end up going the 3/4 route since I have a bunch of stock on hand. I'm hoping the linacoustic will not decompress enough to put pressure behind the GOM to cause a bulge. I need swim trunks, not a Speedo







Thanks again.


Brad


----------



## bdtank




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you want something behind the GOM just for rigidity purposes, I've seen some people use styro- board 1" thick. It's basically inert acoustically but will tend to damp the drywall which would negate any positive effect in terms of bass absorbtion. All a matter of priorities.



bpape- thanks for the tip. My intention is to put the batting up for both filler and remedial sound treatment purposes from what I've gleaned in various posts on the subject (many of them yours in fact). I am such a newbie at this and trying to get my arms around all the nuances of sound properties while building my theater room is a bit like watching my 5yr old son spinning in circles until he can't stand anymore. The more I think-the more dangerous I get


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdtank* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud-thanks so much for the quick response-I'll probably end up going the 3/4 route since I have a bunch of stock on hand. I'm hoping the linacoustic will not decompress enough to put pressure behind the GOM to cause a bulge. I need swim trunks, not a Speedo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Brad



Brad,


No problem.


Bud


----------



## air2mag

Bud,

What brand of canned lighting did you go with? I looked through the thread but couldn't find it. I have been looking at the 5" Juno IC remodel style. Once my false wall is completed my room will be 17'X 15'. Based on what you have now, do you think 3 rows of two cans each will be enough for my room? Thanks!


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


I used Halo for the 6" cans, purchased from Home Depot by the box of 6. They were model number H7ICTs. The 4" cans were also Halos, model H99ICT from Lighting Fixtures & Ceiling Fans . I bought the trims and baffles for all my cans through them as well.


As far as your room dimensions are concerned, I would think so. The four cans I have is plenty for general lighting for my sized room (in addition to the accent lighting). In my other room in the basement, I used four cans per 16 foot x 12 foot section. Now if it was a kitchen, I'd say maybe not because you need task lighting. It also depends on how high your ceilings are. Lower ceiling will tend to reduce the circle of light put out by the cans (say my father-in-law).


Here's a good guide I refer to and point people to when the question comes up, hope it helps.

How to lay out recessed cans 


BTW, people moan about Halo quality and rattles. I wrapped the arms of the cans with electrical tape as a precaution and have not heard a sound.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ginigma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What product are you specifically looking at there? I'm looking at the LED flex neon http://www.wiedamark.com/index.asp?P...S&Category=139
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this?



This is what I was thinking about -- LED Rope lighting:
http://www.wiedamark.com/index.asp?P...S&Category=201 


However, the flex stuff would give a really even glow across the entire length. But at $29/ft, it's little over budget for me.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Milt, where are your pictures, man?



Uh, on my PC. I spend too much time looking at your thread to post them.









I plan on doing some in the near future.

I'm a little self-conscious about it I guess.


I got the Olfa cutter at Jo-Ann's Fabric.

Once again, looking good Bud!


----------



## ginigma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is what I was thinking about -- LED Rope lighting:
> http://www.wiedamark.com/index.asp?P...S&Category=201
> 
> 
> However, the flex stuff would give a really even glow across the entire length. But at $29/ft, it's little over budget for me.



Yeah, once I put it "in the cart" and saw the price for 30ft I decided I can live without that. I'll look into regular rope lighting. Another place I found in another thread is http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/rope-light.asp


----------



## chinadog

OK, here's an update to my light controller situation. I did talk to a person from Smarthome the other day about the Insteon controller. She was pretty knowledgeable with their products and after going back and forth with some ideas, she recommended a Powerlinc Controller (Model 1132CU) . I was a little skeptical, but understood what she was thinking. I went ahead and ordered it and it arrived yesterday.


The PowerLinc Controller is a "stand-alone home automation interface for controlling lights, appliances, heating/air conditioning systems and alarm systems" that you set up using your computer via a USB connection. It comes with software for setup, although its limited functionality because its a free version. I installed the software and plugged the unit in and away I went.


It works as advertised. I spent all this cash on an Omni Pro home automation system when the house was built and I'm amazed that you can spend 70.00 and get a lot of the same functionality.


I was able to setup scenes based on triggers for "premovie", "movietime" and "pause" pretty quickly. Basically, I have six X10 dimmers I want to control in the theater room and concession area. My controller (SMST6) that I have on the wall is fine for for controller the dimmers from the door, but for me to use it with a remote, I have to point at it (does not receive X10 signals, only transmits). Enter the PowerLinc. I set up a dummy X10 housecode (B8) for movietime and pause. When I sent the B8 address "ON", it triggers all the dimmers to the settings I want. (Rope light at 20%, riser light 20%, all other switches off). When I hit pause on the Harmony 880, it sends the signal "OFF" to the address, which triggers the "pause scene" and raises certain lights. Of course you need an IR543 to convert the IR signals from the H880 to X10 to do the scenes, but I had that already.


So far so good. I need some more time with it, but it seems to work as I want it to. You can apparently do much more with it as well. It's a decent alternative. I'll post more when I can about the setup. After programming it, I just stuck it in an outlet in my equipment closet and off we went.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, here's an update to my light controller situation. I did talk to a person from Smarthome the other day about the Insteon controller. She was pretty knowledgeable with their products and after going back and forth with some ideas, she recommended a Powerlinc Controller (Model 1132CU) . I was a little skeptical, but understood what she was thinking. I went ahead and ordered it and it arrived yesterday.
> 
> 
> It works as advertised. I spent all this cash on an Omni Pro home automation system when the house was built and I'm amazed that you can spend 70.00 and get a lot of the same functionality.



Bud,


Thanks for the detail on this item. I was hoping Insteon would come out with their own device that had functionality like this. This until is GREAT for X10, etc but it lacks the 2-way communication Insteon offers (which is why I like Insteon). I just keep saying to myself that by the time I'm ready to buy this stuff (hmm, in the next 4 weeks or so) they'll have an IR543 equivalent and something like the Powerlinc controller available. Yea, Yea -- I know, what have I've been smok'n










Please continue to tell us how it works as I may just have to get one too to get what I want unless I take the plunge and get something like Homeseer.


----------



## mastiff34

Bud,

Thats fantastic, thanks for posting about the Powerlink, I think I will also go this way instead of a Graphic Eye.


I want to insteon my entire house anyways =).


----------



## ikeb

i just finished converting my whole house to insteon - converted all switches to keypadlincs and switchlinc dimmers and switchlinc relays. All lamps now have lamplincs. Am waiting for the new software that reads and writes to these objects. Also, waiting for motion sensors, thermostats, watering timmers and ir->rf converter - have everything working the way i want, but the software is the key - it will be out soon. All in all installed about 60 devices.


I'm very happy with the insteon - i considered x10, but prefered the newer technology for the long run.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detail on this item. I was hoping Insteon would come out with their own device that had functionality like this. This until is GREAT for X10, etc but it lacks the 2-way communication Insteon offers (which is why I like Insteon). I just keep saying to myself that by the time I'm ready to buy this stuff (hmm, in the next 4 weeks or so) they'll have an IR543 equivalent and something like the Powerlinc controller available. Yea, Yea -- I know, what have I've been smok'n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please continue to tell us how it works as I may just have to get one too to get what I want unless I take the plunge and get something like Homeseer.



Hey Steve and Bud....keep me posted. I have the Insteon solution with the keypad dimmer as well and will be looking for the best way to control it with a remote. As of now I only have the Yamaha 2600 remote which will not do RF. Hey Bud...isn't the Harmony 880 IR only?? How do you get it to work with X10 or RF or am I better off calling Smarthome and letting them know my situation and what I am after?? Thanks guys.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Steve and Bud....keep me posted. I have the Insteon solution with the keypad dimmer as well and will be looking for the best way to control it with a remote. As of now I only have the Yamaha 2600 remote which will not do RF. Hey Bud...isn't the Harmony 880 IR only?? How do you get it to work with X10 or RF or am I better off calling Smarthome and letting them know my situation and what I am after?? Thanks guys.



'

Jon,


You can use ANY IR remote. You just need to buy the IR543 that converts IR to X10 commands.

http://www.smarthome.com/4040.HTML


----------



## herdfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastiff34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I want to insteon my entire house anyways =).



Don't want to high-jack Bud's thread, but if you are doing much with Insteon, you need this software www.power-home.com I have 61 devices (20+ more to go) and over 800 links. Its linking capabilities are incredible. Without it, I would not be as far into Insteon as I am.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> '
> 
> Jon,
> 
> 
> You can use ANY IR remote. You just need to buy the IR543 that converts IR to X10 commands.
> 
> http://www.smarthome.com/4040.HTML



Got it...and than just assign X10 addresses to the Insteon dimmers????


----------



## chinadog

I just got back to my desk. I guess I hit a chord here with the controller. Besides the posts, I got a phone call from Jason shortly after he read the post.....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got it...and than just assign X10 addresses to the Insteon dimmers????



Jon


You can assigned X10 addresses to Insteon devices. Check out the Smarthome link.

http://www.smarthome.com/whatisinsteon.html 


I was going to orginally use the Insteon controller to control my X10 dimmer scenes. I think that would still have worked. Since the Insteon controller I was looking at could receive and transmit, I think that would have worked. I may buy one just to play around with it.


Steve is correct, you just need the IR543 to convert IR to X10.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *herdfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't want to high-jack Bud's thread, but if you are doing much with Insteon, you need this software www.power-home.com I have 61 devices (20+ more to go) and over 800 links. Its linking capabilities are incredible. Without it, I would not be as far into Insteon as I am.



Thanks for that. I'll take a look when I can. I have the Omni Pro software, which really sucks. I know a lot of people use Homeseer with the Omni Pro, so will have to check for compatibility.


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> You can assigned X10 addresses to Insteon devices. Check out the Smarthome link.
> 
> http://www.smarthome.com/whatisinsteon.html
> 
> 
> I was going to orginally use the Insteon controller to control my X10 dimmer scenes. I think that would still have worked. Since the Insteon controller I was looking at could receive and transmit, I think that would have worked. I may buy one just to play around with it.
> 
> 
> Steve is correct, you just need the IR543 to convert IR to X10.
> 
> 
> Bud



I have the keypad dimmer from Insteon which I believe acts as the controller. It will controll the other Insteon dimmers.


I was wanting to use the Yamaha remote for now. I just need something that will convert the IR signal to X10 so it can opperate the keypad. On your Harmony remote, when you hit pause and the lights will go to the "pause scene" is that a macro that does that?? This is one area I still need to do much research on.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the keypad dimmer from Insteon which I believe acts as the controller. It will controll the other Insteon dimmers.
> 
> 
> I was wanting to use the Yamaha remote for now. I just need something that will convert the IR signal to X10 so it can opperate the keypad. On your Harmony remote, when you hit pause and the lights will go to the "pause scene" is that a macro that does that?? This is one area I still need to do much research on.



Jon,


Yeah, that's the controller. but X10 stuff can receive, transmit or both. The Insteon controller is two way (receives commands), which is why I was thinking about it.


Actually, with the H880, you have activities and devices. Activities are like "Watch a DVD". Devices are your components, IR543, projector, etc. You can assign devices to a specific activity. Example. Watch a DVD requires turning on the projector, making sure its on HDMI, turning on the Receiver, changing it to the DVD setting, turning on the DVD player, starting the movie, sending a command to the IR543 (in my case B8 "on" which then activities the scene on the Powelinc I defined with my PC). I've got that working fine.


I'm playing around with the Pause functionality still. You can customize the buttons/actions for a given command. So when you hit pause on the H880, it can send separate commands to all the devices. Even though you mean "Pause the DVD player", you can customize it to do something with that same push of the pause button to all the devices defined under "Watch a DVD". In my case, because of the way the IR543 works, the last X10 command should be "B8 ON". I should be able to define the pause button for IR543 command "OFF" (meaning "B8 OFF" since it remembers the last address sent to the IR543 unless you change it). Soooo, when I hit pause on the H880 it sends a signal to the DVD player to actually pause and sends the IR543 "OFF". I have the "OFF" scene defined to raise the rope light to 50%, concession are 75%, step light 100%, stage light 35%. I just need to test that part. It should work for the "play' button, it just reissues the "ON" command back to B8. Make sense?


I'll play with it and post those results.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My GOM arrived for the walls! I also ordered 10 extra feet of the track and that came as well.











Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - your rooms is looking great and your thread very informative.


I've been looking at these Insteon devices, are the following statements correct?


1) Each Light fixture that needs to be separately controlled should be on its own circuit and will need its own Insteon dimmer switch.


2) The Insteon controller can then be used as a 'master' switch and programed for scenes such as:

a) All On

b) Theater and Stage On, Rope off

c) Theater Dim, Stage Off, Rope On

d) Theater Dim, Stage On, Rope On


3) The Insteon dimmer switch could be in the HT closet with light 'just' controlled by the Insteon controller.


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## mastiff34

Mark,


I believe everything you said is correct from my research, except the different circuit part. They can all feed off the same 20 amp breaker, its the switches that control it.


-Matt


----------



## BritInVA

Matt - So the 'feed' from the panel can be the same to supply each Dimmer but will need a Dimmer and load circuit per set of lighting fixtures to be independently controlled.


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## suffolk112000

Bud, you just keep clipping along.







Lookin great!!!


How much longer before you are completed?


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I'm not up on all the Insteon stuff. Take a look at that link I posted a few replies back to Jon. In X10 land, you can be on completely different circuits/breakers. The issue is the phase and circuits on different sides of the breaker box talking to each other. There are ways around that though with Phase couplers, etc. X10 signals need to be boosted, depending on the square footage of the house, etc. Insteon devices receive the signal/command and repeats it even if its not intended for that device. Sort of like passing the baton. That's my understanding at least. No hands on experience with it. Matt probably knows better.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Craig, thanks.


Trying the get the HT room done in the next few weeks for visitors (minus probably carpet and chairs). The rest of the basement I just need to paint, tile and finish up the bath and do flooring. Maybe be the end of May.


Bud


----------



## mastiff34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Matt - So the 'feed' from the panel can be the same to supply each Dimmer but will need a Dimmer and load circuit per set of lighting fixtures to be independently controlled.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Yes. So essential, you could have say 3 lighting switches say:

Rope

HT Main

HT hallway to bathroom


each on the same 15amp circuit, but controlled by 3 Insteon switches/dimmers.


----------



## mastiff34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> I'm not up on all the Insteon stuff. Take a look at that link I posted a few replies back to Jon. In X10 land, you can be on completely different circuits/breakers. The issue is the phase and circuits on different sides of the breaker box talking to each other. There are ways around that though with Phase couplers, etc. X10 signals need to be boosted, depending on the square footage of the house, etc. Insteon devices receive the signal/command and repeats it even if its not intended for that device. Sort of like passing the baton. That's my understanding at least. No hands on experience with it. Matt probably knows better.
> 
> 
> Bud



I am not sure I know any better, but I tell what I have figured out so far.


Essentially, I look at Insteon as generation 2 of x10, the main benefits are

The 2 way communication where the device actually repsponds to requests for it.

Unlike x10 where its a one way communication channel.


And, the really good thing is each Insteon device in your household acts as a repeater for the signal, so the more devices you add the more reliable your signal.

And it uses RF in addition to your power line wiring so its completely backwards compabilte with x10.


Now the biggest drawback, and I think Bud has already alluded to this is lack of products, but there coming we just gotta be paitent.


Here is a good article on it.
http://www.smarthome.com/whatisinsteon.html


----------



## BritInVA

Bud/Matt - Thanks for your insight - Hijack over


----------



## ginigma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detail on this item. I was hoping Insteon would come out with their own device that had functionality like this. This until is GREAT for X10, etc but it lacks the 2-way communication Insteon offers (which is why I like Insteon). I just keep saying to myself that by the time I'm ready to buy this stuff (hmm, in the next 4 weeks or so) they'll have an IR543 equivalent and something like the Powerlinc controller available. Yea, Yea -- I know, what have I've been smok'n
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please continue to tell us how it works as I may just have to get one too to get what I want unless I take the plunge and get something like Homeseer.



I've been following the Insteon stuff pretty closely, including purchasing their SDK so I can write (ok, hack) some code. It also gives me access to "inside" information on product releases. There are a lot of products in the pipeline, which is good. EHX is this week, so I would exect to see a lot of press releases about new products.


----------



## rsberg34

Wow Bud, you ihave made some great progress since I last checked....that will teach me to not stop in for a few days. Do you think you will make theater debut for the incoming visitors? By the look so fthings you will...looking great. You seem to have that GOM pretty much mastered...when it comes time I might have to hit you up for some advice...but thats light years away as it seems. As others have said, those of you that continue to show great detailed pics and give good explinations considerably help those of us that are just beginning or are about to.


Anyway...lookin good keep it up


----------



## chinadog

If you guys ever get GOM and it has little red tape on it... beware! Look closer at the roll.











Umm, someone seamed it together:










I immediately called fabricmate and they were very cooperative. If I ran into problems they said they'd ship more on Monday.


I managed to get around it. Made some good progress tonight.


















Doesn't look as grainy in the pictures, more green. I'm OK with it, not in love with it, but its growing on me.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow Bud, you ihave made some great progress since I last checked....that will teach me to not stop in for a few days. Do you think you will make theater debut for the incoming visitors? By the look so fthings you will...looking great. You seem to have that GOM pretty much mastered...when it comes time I might have to hit you up for some advice...but thats light years away as it seems. As others have said, those of you that continue to show great detailed pics and give good explinations considerably help those of us that are just beginning or are about to.
> 
> 
> Anyway...lookin good keep it up



Thanks. It'll be damn close!


Bud


----------



## reaper

Nice progress. I love the down lighting on the screen. Thanks for keeping us all updated!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reaper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice progress. I love the down lighting on the screen. Thanks for keeping us all updated!



Hey man! Thanks. Glad you're still checking it out. I know you're pretty busy with the side business and that wonderful little addition to your family!


Bud


----------



## bpape

Lookin good bud. You'll be watching movies before you know it.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lookin good bud. You'll be watching movies before you know it.



Thanks Bryan. You're kiddin', right? I've probably gotten 250 hours on the lamp already.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I few more shots of GOM. I finished the lower portion of the walls today and got the upper portion of the long wall done today as well. I had to cut some more beveled furring, picked up my other door as well as some 2x4s to rip/make panels and a bunch of staples.


Here goes:


















Couple of things I wanted to share here. First, the length of the GOM with a little extra for the sides walls is 214 inches. I couldn't just roll it out on the floor, there wasn't enough room. I decided to measure out 100 inches at a time and mark both sides with painters tape. I'd also write on the tape the measurement, so I don't confuse it for a different measurement. I'd then roll that back up and roll out another 100 inches and mark it on both sides and mark it at 200. Then roll out the last foot or so and mark it with tape. Now I can draw a straight line and cut it. This method help me keep track of where I was for that piece and made sure I didn't mis-measure.


















When I did the upper portion of the wall, I would lay it up on the furring strip on the wall and use push pins to hold it. I'd then go down the line stapling the whole piece right on top of the existing GOM on the lower wall. I'd make sure not to step on it and pull the pins out, so I just bunch it up on the floor close to the wall.










After I had it stapled, I'd take the second piece of furring and lay it up on top of the first, making sure the beveled edge was correct. I then was able to predrill hole to go into the studs (marked by the nails/orange caps holding Linacoustic up). At the end where there was no stud, I used construction adhesive (very carefully, since you don't want it on the fabric). I then used 2 1/2 inch screws and attached the furring to the wall.


----------



## chinadog

The next thing I did was pull it up and tack it in loosely using push pins. This GOM is not as durable as the other stuff, so if you pull it too much, it can damage it. When I meant pull it, I mean really pull it.










I then started at the left side of the wall and started to pull the fabric tight while stapling the side. I left a furring strip to overhang the GOM around which will be hidden by the speaker panel, so I started there and worked my way towards the ceiling. From there, I went left to right stapling and pulling tightly up and away until I got to the end. Once I go to the end, I was started back down towards the until I got to the furring strip, pulling tightly from left to right and stapling. The furring strip is in the corner and the staples will be hidden by the adjacent walls furring strip. As you can see, there is a nice beveled edge on the wall now. If I decide later to put up a chair rail, I can do so, but I like the clean look at the moment. I'll have to take a close up of the beveled seam and post later. Looks deceiving, the seam is at 40 inches.










Tomorrow I'll finish up the rest of the fabric and try and get to the new door.


Bud


----------



## PamW

Keep it up, Bud...you are getting there!!!!


----------



## BritInVA

Your moving along fast Bud - you will soon be enjoying the fruits of all this hard work.


Mark


----------



## chinadog

Pam and Mark,


Soon! Very soon!


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

I like the beveled edge bud...looks very clean and sharp!!


Robert


----------



## SmX

Hi Bud, Your coming along nicely. I noticed however that you have allot of pulls/ripples in the top of the botom panel in picture below. This may be because you are not using enough staples and not pulling the fabric in 2 directions as you staple. It happened to me as well when I did the soffit behind my screen and used less staples. Once I added more staples it fixed the issue. Another trick Is to use a Spray adhesive first before stapling, that will keep the fabric in place tightly while stapling.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud, Your coming along nicely. I noticed however that you have allot of pulls/ripples in the top of the botom panel in picture below. This may be because you are not using enough staples and not pulling the fabric in 2 directions as you staple. It happened to me as well when I did the soffit behind my screen and used less staples. Once I added more staples it fixed the issue. Another trick Is to use a Spray adhesive first before stapling, that will keep the fabric in place tightly while stapling.



Actually, it was the combination of the depth of the staples and the number of staples. Even though I backed off the pressure, I neglected to use the adjustment initially on the staple gun itself. I figured that out. Luckily, the pulls are not noticeable with standard lighting. It can only be seen when I use the halogens or the flash.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's a few shots from today. I installed the door and finished up the walls. Still need to build my panels to finish the front wall. I made a few mistakes today, but I recovered from them. I'll explain tomorrow. Too tired today to get into it.



























Bud


----------



## Milt99

Looking good Bud.

I know you're working hard, pal.

I looked through your thread to find the exact GOM code you're using and didn't find it.

I know it's the Lido family but from your pics it looks predominately gray.

I'm asking because I got a Lido sample named Yellowstone and it looks nothing

like your pics and all of the other Lido samples on the GOM site are even more different.

Trying to pick GOM colors is frustrating, so many but not the right one(s).

I finished my columns in basic black.

At this point I'm thinking all Charcoal, screw it.


----------



## chinadog

Milt,


It's actually a greenish color with some grey and black. Check this post out: Post 1039 - New GOM Samples 


It's called Pine Valley. You can order good sized samples from Guilford of Maine through the website at www.guilfordofmaine.com for free, but you can only order a few at a time. You'll have them in less than a week. Another good source for online samples is Silent Source . Don't make a hasty decision, it'll be a pain in the butt to remove later!


Bud


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud - great progress.


Don't take the following question the wrong way (cuz I like Insteon and am putting it in my new house) but...just curious...when you add up all that you've had to put together to get good scene control from your IR remote, is it over $545 (the online cost of a GE)...?


:|


----------



## bbboza

Coming up nicely Bud!


Keep up the amazing work!


----------



## garykagan

Looking really great Bud, very nice!


Gary


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud - great progress.
> 
> 
> Don't take the following question the wrong way (cuz I like Insteon and am putting it in my new house) but...just curious...when you add up all that you've had to put together to get good scene control from your IR remote, is it over $545 (the online cost of a GE)...?
> 
> 
> :|



Yes, after all the dimmers and the controls, you're about in the same ball park. It's the 6 dimmers that did it. They're cheaper now, too! I've been pretty happy with my X10 stuff and I have the whole house automation thing, so that was the deciding factor for me. I was biased going in.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Gary and bbboza,


Thanks! Been a long journey.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I've had my second gallon of coffee this AM, took a few Advil and I'm feeling a little better, although little stiff. Its tough getting old.


I wanted to document a few mistakes so others don't repeat them.

As Ruben eluded to, you need a lot of staples for this stuff. Definitely get a good staple gun. When I did the soffits, it went pretty smooth. The Lido material was not as stiff as the FR701. When you staple the material I really tried to pull it taunt. Even doing so, the staples went below the surface and would pull strands of the material (think runs, although no that bad). You need to adjust the pressure and the depth of the staples. To get an even tightness of the material you need to use whole lot of staples. If you look close under the right light you can see some very tightly pulled lines in the material when the staples pulled it.

Measure twice and cut once! I made the dreaded mistake of starting to cut the material and realized that I messed up. I was cutting the back wall, which had a rough measurement of 140 inches. The side walls were 214 inches. I laid out the material for the back wall and started to cut 114 inches! Luckily I only cut 18 inches width-wise when I realized. I was able to roll out the material at cut it at 214. The initial cut full in the middle of the HT door, so I got lucky and was able to use it.

On the corners and beveled edge. Looks nice, I like it. When you do the "staple on the side, wrap and put the furring strip in the corner method", make sure of a few things.
Staple the correct side of the furring strip. I stapled the front side, not the hidden side, so I ended up cutting the furring strip off and doing it over. Luckily, I had enough extra even cutting off a few inches.

Watch the fingers. Yes, I put one side of the staple through my finger. I stapled it too close to the edge and it came out the other side when I was trying to pull the material tight. I used 1 inch staples, so it went in and I pulled my finger away quickly when I realized what happened. Luckily it didn't hit the bone.

I precut all my top furring strips with the beveled edge and labeled them. I measured my corner furring for the hidden seams, put them up temporarily, then temporarily put up the upper piece of GOM. I would then put a bunch of push pins in the temp furring strip so I knew exactly where to staple for the hidden corner. I pulled it all down and then stapled the furring strip to the material and rehung. What I neglected to do here was to put the horizontal beveled edge strip in before I measured for the corner. Turns out after handing the corner and putting in the first horizontal piece and staple that I realized the second piece of horizontal beveled edge to complete the wall was about two inches too long. Odd. Turns out I made the corner piece too long and I have two inches of furring thats not beveled in one corner. It was too late to go back. Oh well. (If this is confusing, I'll post a drawing. I have one picture on this).

When I stapled around the outlets and switches, I strayed some. I need to go get oversize plate to cover some staples. I'll also need to build a little extension for my step lights, there is just not overlapped metal to cover the area stapled.

Bud


----------



## GPowers

The fabric looks great.


You must have nerves of steel to cut into the GOM using lengths of 214 inches. If you screw up it is a very costly mistake. The though of trying to staple fabric along the entire length of a room was well beyond me. Trying to find a cost effect solution drove me nuts.


With the fabric frames the risk is much smaller. Installation just takes a lot more time.


But you are almost there. When does the carpet go in?


----------



## sdspga

Thanks for sharing the lessons learned, Bud. Everything is really looking great! I really appreciate the time you are taking to get pics up and post your thoughts. Hope you're not like me, I start getting excited (sloppy) towards the end of a project because I cannot wait to see the finished product. Continued best wishes.


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The fabric looks great.
> 
> 
> You must have nerves of steel to cut into the GOM using lengths of 214 inches. If you screw up it is a very costly mistake. The though of trying to staple fabric along the entire length of a room was well beyond me. Trying to find a cost effect solution drove me nuts.
> 
> 
> With the fabric frames the risk is much smaller. Installation just takes a lot more time.
> 
> 
> But you are almost there. When does the carpet go in?



Greg,


I figured if I messed up the 214 inches, I could use most of it on back wall. I added maybe 6 inches onto the length of the sidewalls, so I felt pretty comfortable and doubled check the measurements like 4 times. I had a brain fart when I did the miscut.


I don't have a schedule yet on the carpet, although not that the fabric is up, I have a pretty good idea of what the carpet is going to look like. I'm still out on whether to do the carpet on the stage or just carpet the stage black. I also want to get the flooring in the concession area done first, I think I'll go with with a laminate in there and be done with it. This way the carpet installs can make the where they meet nice and I don't have to worry about it.


Still got plenty to do still. Need to make my speaker panels. Hopefully this week.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing the lessons learned, Bud. Everything is really looking great! I really appreciate the time you are taking to get pics up and post your thoughts. Hope you're not like me, I start getting excited (sloppy) towards the end of a project because I cannot wait to see the finished product. Continued best wishes.
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott,


Thanks and no problem on the info. I'm not trying to rush, I'm trying to use my time more wisely, although the wife might argue with that logic.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Looking good Bud. I think you need to take a week off and let the batteries charge up again










I was out of town all last week, so no theater work for me. I think it helped because I was getting to the point where I was burning out and couldnt make clear decisions anymore. Its that theater blind thing.


Keep up the good work..... and Relax a little.







Company can always come back later.


Ronnie


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still out on whether to do the carpet on the stage or just carpet the stage black.
> 
> 
> Bud



We are having the stage redone. The guy who did the orginal carpet install did not know how to do the radius/overhang. He messed it up. The screw ups are hard to see but I see them.


So I talked to a guy over the weekend about redoing the stage. He said he can get the same carpet, but I thing we are going to change the stage to black. Both the top and front of the stage.


----------



## barhoram

Bud,


How are you doing to cutout for the outlets/switches? Are you putting the GOM up and then cutting the GOM for the outlets/switches after it is on the wall? Or are you precutting the holes? What are you using? blade? Scissors? Staple it before you cut? I am at this point, and was wondering the easiest way to do this. Thanks.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> How are you doing to cutout for the outlets/switches? Are you putting the GOM up and then cutting the GOM for the outlets/switches after it is on the wall? Or are you precutting the holes? What are you using? blade? Scissors? Staple it before you cut? I am at this point, and was wondering the easiest way to do this. Thanks.



Sorry about not addressing that. I put the GOM over the switches and outlets, stapled as closely as possible. I'd then use scissors, snip in the middle then work my way towards the sides. From there you trim off the excess. I bought midway plates for the outlets and switches (there are three sizes of wallplates - standard, midway and jumbo), but I think I'll need to get the jumbo ones. I'm not thrilled about, they're large, but oh well. It's tough getting close blind. I think some people, in preparation for GOM adjust adjusted the boxes out slightly. to give them a pronounced edge to use as a guide. I have the adjustable boxes, I just forgot to do so.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We are having the stage redone. The guy who did the orginal carpet install did not know how to do the radius/overhang. He messed it up. The screw ups are hard to see but I see them.
> 
> 
> So I talked to a guy over the weekend about redoing the stage. He said he can get the same carpet, but I thing we are going to change the stage to black. Both the top and front of the stage.



I'd like to see pictures when you're done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking good Bud. I think you need to take a week off and let the batteries charge up again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was out of town all last week, so no theater work for me. I think it helped because I was getting to the point where I was burning out and couldnt make clear decisions anymore. Its that theater blind thing.
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work..... and Relax a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Company can always come back later.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Ronnie,


Thanks. It may be a slow week, this week. I was going to take a few days off (from work), but it may be next week instead.


I got my Dremel circle cutting tool today. I have a bunch of little things like that to do still. I still need to do the rope light tracks, hook up the IR, do the extended trims for the 4" cans and extended trim for the step lights. I'm hoping to start staining this week too, but that may wait.


I'll work on the projector box on the weekend maybe.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, with the H880, you have activities and devices. Activities are like "Watch a DVD". Devices are your components, IR543, projector, etc. You can assign devices to a specific activity. Example. Watch a DVD requires turning on the projector, making sure its on HDMI, turning on the Receiver, changing it to the DVD setting, turning on the DVD player, starting the movie, sending a command to the IR543 (in my case B8 "on" which then activities the scene on the Powelinc I defined with my PC). I've got that working fine.
> 
> 
> I'm playing around with the Pause functionality still. You can customize the buttons/actions for a given command. So when you hit pause on the H880, it can send separate commands to all the devices. Even though you mean "Pause the DVD player", you can customize it to do something with that same push of the pause button to all the devices defined under "Watch a DVD". In my case, because of the way the IR543 works, the last X10 command should be "B8 ON". I should be able to define the pause button for IR543 command "OFF" (meaning "B8 OFF" since it remembers the last address sent to the IR543 unless you change it). Soooo, when I hit pause on the H880 it sends a signal to the DVD player to actually pause and sends the IR543 "OFF". I have the "OFF" scene defined to raise the rope light to 50%, concession are 75%, step light 100%, stage light 35%. I just need to test that part. It should work for the "play' button, it just reissues the "ON" command back to B8. Make sense?
> 
> 
> I'll play with it and post those results.
> 
> 
> Bud



Here are the results working with the H880. I was able to control the light scene when I hit the "pause" button on the remote. I was able to change the light scene back when I hit "play". Took some fooling around with, but seems to work pretty well. I may have to fine tune some timings, etc., but thats the easy part.


The first shot here is the Smarthome Manager software triggers (on the left). This is the software that comes with the PowerLinc Controller. I used B8 as a dummy X10 device that I can send an ON of OFF signal to. I send "ON" when either I click on the "Watch a DVD" activity on the remote, or when I hit "Play" on the remote for the DVD player. When I click on "Pause" during a movie, it sends it "OFF" and runs that scene (a series of events, if you will). I also added a B9 device that I used to trigger as part of the shutdown activity, (turn lights up for exiting, shuts off all the equipment).










This shot shows the setup for "watch a DVD". These are commands it issues:










The tricky part was customizing the hardcoded buttons on the remote for Pause and Play. When You hit a button, you can define a command it sends to each device. That's it though. ONE command. So in order to add the control to the Pause button, I had to define an extra IR543 device. When you hit Pause, the first instance sends "LIGHT8" and the second instance sends "ON". When you hit Play, the first instance of the IR543 again sends "LIGHT8" and the second device sends "OFF". The IR543 then converts the commands to B8 ON or B8 OFF and the PowerLinc Controller just runs its events based on the trigger.










Bud


----------



## ebr

Good work, Bud.


I have to say the Harmony is neat looking and my wife likes it but I like my MX-500 and MX-800 much better - better feel to the buttons, better layout (especially for play, pause, etc.) and better functionality (like macros on play, pause, etc.)


P.S. you ignoring my question about the cost of your lighting "scenes"....?


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I think he answered it in post 1321 above.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, after all the dimmers and the controls, you're about in the same ball park. It's the 6 dimmers that did it. They're cheaper now, too! I've been pretty happy with my X10 stuff and I have the whole house automation thing, so that was the deciding factor for me. I was biased going in.
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good work, Bud.
> 
> 
> I have to say the Harmony is neat looking and my wife likes it but I like my MX-500 and MX-800 much better - better feel to the buttons, better layout (especially for play, pause, etc.) and better functionality (like macros on play, pause, etc.)
> 
> 
> P.S. you ignoring my question about the cost of your lighting "scenes"....?



Nope, not ignoring your question. Ronnie is correct!


I couldn't pass it up for 124.00 (after rebate). I still may take a look at some others. I still need a decent one for the family room anyway, although I have a Kameleon packed away somewhere.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Sorry, Bud - I missed the answer you didn't miss the question


----------



## chinadog

I temporarily hooked up my Buffalo IR control before the basketball game last night. As you might recall, I installed one receiver in the cove in the front of the room. Its also covered in GOM. I did however build a little trap door to access the receiver in case I have to replace it or something. I was able to get to it to verify the wiring, then reinstall it using the trap door. I'll have to segment my tracks when I install then and I'm sure I'll have to pull the rope light out for that whole section if I ever need to get back in, but at least I can do it.










BTW, the receiver does work through the GOM and you can see the little green feedback light through the black GOM when you send it a command. I tried to get a shot of the little green light, but it just doesn't come out in the picture.


I put emitters on the Yamaha 2600 and the Moto 6412 and that's working fine. I'm trying to find the IR receiver on my Panasonic DVD-S97S. I looked in the manual, but its not in there. Anyone know specifically where the IR receiver is on the front panel? I'd like to have an idea prior to sticking it on.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some close ups of the beveled edge.





























Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Typically I keep up on your thread all day long, but in the past few days I haven't been able to. I got a promotion at work and it's actually turning out to be more work.... who knew!?


I really think everything in your space is looking great!!! It amazes me sometimes when I see where you've planned for items way in advance. Me I always seem to be retro fitting.


I have been reading everything about your GOM installation and the pictures have been terrific! But I'm having a hard time understanding the whole setup with furring strips, Fabricmate, staples, ..etc. If you could, could you draw a cross section of how you have all this attached?


Anyways, keep up the good work, and remember that this is supposed to be fun!!










Sean


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Typically I keep up on your thread all day long, but in the past few days I haven't been able to. I got a promotion at work and it's actually turning out to be more work.... who knew!?
> 
> 
> I really think everything in your space is looking great!!! It amazes me sometimes when I see where you've planned for items way in advance. Me I always seem to be retro fitting.
> 
> 
> I have been reading everything about your GOM installation and the pictures have been terrific! But I'm having a hard time understanding the whole setup with furring strips, Fabricmate, staples, ..etc. If you could, could you draw a cross section of how you have all this attached?
> 
> 
> Anyways, keep up the good work, and remember that this is supposed to be fun!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sean



Hey Sean,


Been wondering where you've been... that explains it.


I'm not sure what you're looking for as far as a cross section is concerned, but let me make an attempt to mark up some pictures.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Here are few mockups, hopefully people will find them helpful, including yourself of course. I'm sure you'll have questions, so I'll just answer as you come up with them.


These two shots are for Black GOM around the soffit. You basically hang the fabric and staple from the corner where the soffit and wall meant and pull it up and over the cove. Staple around cans (if required) after its been attached to the top of the light trey. then you can staple the sides and push it into the track where two pieces of GOM meet.


















The next two shots are for the lower portion of the wall. I stapled on the top of the furring strip first (going left to right), stapled the left side and then worked my way across the floor from left to right, pulling it taunt. The right side I would pull taunt and staple last.


















The top piece was a little trickier with a beveled edge. You basically layout the fabric with push pins like you would the bottom of the seam. You staple the edge of the GOM right over the other piece of GOM. The two pieces lay on top of each other. After stapling, you put the second beveled piece in there and secure it to the wall. This creates the top part of the bevel. From there, it's like the bottom piece. Pull up the GOM to the furring strip in the corner of the wall and soffit, then staple left to right, making sure it's taunt.


















A breakdown of the beveled edge.










This is the mistake I made in back left corner (will be hidden by seats anyway). You want to make sure the beveled edge goes all the way top the corner and not hit a vertical furring strip.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Typically I keep up on your thread all day long, but in the past few days I haven't been able to. I got a promotion at work and it's actually turning out to be more work.... who knew!?



OH, almost forgot .... congrats!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looking great Bud! I can't wait to get to GOM and Furring strips...


----------



## ginigma

So Bud, how much will you charge me to do my theatre?


----------



## edmove

This is very helpful as I am ordering my GOM this week. One questions. Don't you see the staples in th corners of the room? Can you post a close up of the corner? I am not seeing how the staple are hidden in a corner.


Also in this diagram you are not putting anty stables in the top strip (#3) right?











Thanks in advance.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is very helpful as I am ordering my GOM this week. One questions. Don't you see the staples in th corners of the room? Can you post a close up of the corner? I am not seeing how the staple are hidden in a corner.
> 
> 
> Also in this diagram you are not putting anty stables in the top strip (#3) right?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Ed,


Here is how you do the corners and hide the staples:










Here is a shot of the corner:










And the answer is yes, there are no staples in the top furring strip (#3). Both are stapled to the bottom strip. The top strip is there to create the beveled edge. If you're not doing beveled edges, this is the way to go. Beveled edge corners are a little trickier since you can't use butt joints.

*EDIT and NOTE: The above diagram is for a standard hidden seam in the corner, not a beveled edge corner. In other words, this is the vertical boards in the corners, the hoizontal furring strips that create the beveled edge. when doing the beveled edges, when you get to the corners where they meet, you need to mitre them at 45 degrees.*


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ginigma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Bud, how much will you charge me to do my theatre?



Make me an offer!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking great Bud! I can't wait to get to GOM and Furring strips...



Once the screenwall panels are behind me, I'll be happy. Those should be pretty straight forward though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, another decision made.


I was going to run down to to some of the woodworkers stores and look at stain. That was the plan at least. I'm at the point where I want do some staining here and use the weekends to install the trim. I played around with the wood conditioners from Minwax in combination with their stain and an happy enough with the results. If someone can convince me to try something else, I'll listen.


I used one coat of conditioner and two coats of Rosewood on a piece of casing in the picture below. No poly at this point (but will plan on at least one coat of satin). I may add another coat just to see how dark it gets. They recommend two coats of the conditioner, which I would do when I start since it is pine. I ragged it on this time, but will use a brush.











You guys getting sick of me posting yet?!?!?


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

The stain looks good Bud. You will find that the poly satin does indeed darken it a little and changes the look (at least that was my experience). I think 2 very thin coats of satin poly will be just right. Test it out and throw up another pic.


Your kidding about the posts right? We love this stuff







Im just waiting on the pic of the 5.5 cotton and those home made T-hangers.


Ronnie


----------



## edmove

Okay, so in this diagram the last wall you put in (top in the image) has to be assembled off on the wall. Meaning that you have to streach the GOM on a frame and then place it on the wall. Otherwise you can't get to the stapled area on the edge, right?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The stain looks good Bud. You will find that the poly satin does indeed darken it a little and changes the look (at least that was my experience). I think 2 very thin coats of satin poly will be just right. Test it out and throw up another pic.
> 
> 
> Your kidding about the posts right? We love this stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im just waiting on the pic of the 5.5 cotton and those home made T-hangers.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Ronnie, good info. Hold tight on the cotton. It's coming ....


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, another decision made.
> 
> 
> I was going to run down to to some of the woodworkers stores and look at stain. That was the plan at least. I'm at the point where I want do some staining here and use the weekends to install the trim. I played around with the wood conditioners from Minwax in combination with their stain and an happy enough with the results. If someone can convince me to try something else, I'll listen.
> 
> 
> I used one coat of conditioner and two coats of Rosewood on a piece of casing in the picture below. No poly at this point (but will plan on at least one coat of satin). I may add another coat just to see how dark it gets. They recommend two coats of the conditioner, which I would do when I start since it is pine. I ragged it on this time, but will use a brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You gets getting sick of me posting yet?!?!?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Stain looks good. I'm interested in how it turns out -- as you know I have a bunch to stain myself. As far as your "numerous" posts -- keep 'em coming. I wish I could post more but just nothing of value to post lately


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *edmove* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, so in this diagram the last wall you put in (top in the image) has to be assembled off on the wall. Meaning that you have to streach the GOM on a frame and then place it on the wall. Otherwise you can't get to the stapled area on the edge, right?



Correct. You basically put the fabric on the floor, put the furring strip close to the edge leaving an inch or two of fabric. You take that inch or two and wrap the side of the furring strip and staple it on the side. You put it on the wall with and secure it, then pull the fabric to the next corner.


In this picture, you can see I left a gap in the corner between the side wall furring strip and the Linacoustic for the next furring strip.










Bud


----------



## thegeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You gets getting sick of me posting yet?!?!?
> 
> 
> Bud




Nope, keep 'em coming.


----------



## sportrac

The Pictures are great, the information is very helpful, and the Theater is looking very nice.


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is the mistake I made in back left corner (will be hidden by seats anyway). You want to make sure the beveled edge goes all the way top the corner and not hit a vertical furring strip.



Here is a nother approach to the beveles in an inside corner.


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


That's the way I should have done it! There is still a chance I do a chair rail (I can just cover the bevel) to break up the wall some, but I could do that at any time. I like at least having the option.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Thanks for the marked up pictures!! I was getting lost because I thought you were stapling the GOM to furring stripps AND tucking it into Fabric mate on all edges. Now I understand what you've done.


Thank you for the congrats!


BTW, have you decided on seating yet?! Are you getting theater seating or are you going the sofa/loveseat route?!


Your stain choice looks perfect! I say throw on a coat or two of poly and put that sucker up!!


You're theater is looking great!!! I can't wait for pics of the finished product!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Thanks. I think I'm going to go with two Berk 090's in the front and either three in the back or a 090 loveseat flanked by two 090s. That should fit. Gvies you a little extra seating if you need it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just finished putting in the rope light tracks and re-resintalled the rope light. Ronnie, or others, did you find it tough pushing the rope light into the track? I got the track from the rope light folks, so I think its the correct size. I went up and got a wet sponge with a tab of liquid dishwashing soap and ran it down the track and the rope, worked much better that way, took about a quarter of the time getting it in. Regardless, it's not coming out anytime soon.


I installed it about half way on the cove, it seemed to look the best for me, rather than installing right up against the wall. When I did the front portion of the cove, I went up on the riser and I could barley see it, but wasn't happy about that. I went ahead and pull it out of the track, ripped out the track and moved it close to the wall. Looked much better. It has a nice even glow now, versus an up and down sort of look.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I have two different tracks for my rope lights. One is aluminum gold colored cove track that is 2 inches plus wide at the top. The other is the clear 1/2 inch stuff. The rope light slipped in easily in the clear, and the aluminum is tight.


Randy.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I have two different tracks for my rope lights. One is aluminum gold colored cove track that is 2 inches plus wide at the top. The other is the clear 1/2 inch stuff. The rope light slipped in easily in the clear, and the aluminum is tight.
> 
> 
> Randy.



Randy,


Interesting. This was the clear plastic 1/2 type. I used 3/4 double sided 3M tape from Home Depot to secure the track. It's not going anywhere. I think Ronnie said his track had the tape on it already when he got his from HD. For the IR trap door, I didn't even bother with the track, I stretched it between the two. The door is about 10 inches wide, but it's pretty tight going across.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> 
> Interesting. This was the clear plastic 1/2 type. I used 3/4 double sided 3M tape from Home Depot to secure the track. It's not going anywhere. I think Ronnie said his track had the tape on it already when he got his from HD. For the IR trap door, I didn't even bother with the track, I stretched it between the two. The door is about 10 inches wide, but it's pretty tight going across.
> 
> 
> Bud




Yes, you are right. The rope is a pretty tight fit and your fingers will be sore after working it into the groove. I bought the 1/2" clear track. I found that if I rolled it a little as I was working it in, it went much smoother. The soap solution would have made it easy also. Good call.


Also, mine did already have the tape on it and its very sticky. I looked at it today to make sure its still secure. After 2 weeks, its still holding well. If it does come loose, its nothing a few strategically placed staples or liquid nails wont fix.


Ronnie


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> 
> Interesting. This was the clear plastic 1/2 type. I used 3/4 double sided 3M tape from Home Depot to secure the track. It's not going anywhere. ..
> 
> 
> Bud



That's what I though. I also used the double sides tape to secure the plastic on the steps. BUT the heat of the rope lights melts the tape glue after about 9 or 10 month. Then the plastic strips start to move and fall down.


In the tray you do not have gravity working against you, but the tape will get hot and the glue will melt.


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


Will check it every few months. I wonder if thats in the new book??


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The stain looks good Bud. You will find that the poly satin does indeed darken it a little and changes the look (at least that was my experience). I think 2 very thin coats of satin poly will be just right. Test it out and throw up another pic.



Here's a shot with three coats of the rosewood and two coats of satin poly. They recommend three coats of poly, but not sure I'll do it. Its shinny enough.










Here's the old shot for comparison reasons:










It actually looks lighter, but its the light conditions I think. I didn't do any sanding on the sample piece. It's just a hair lighter than I really want. Should I go one more coat?


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

hmmm, its hard to tell by the pic. The latest picture is brighter as you can tell by the white background. On my test peices, I made about 4 identical peices and stained them with varying set times on the stain and compared. Once I found the right amount of stain and set time, I made several more test pieces. Then I perfermoned the same process with the poly. That way I could see the difference side by side.


My experience was that the poly darkened it a little and made it richer looking. Do you think the poly made a difference? Its hard to tell from the pic because the lighting conditions seem to be a lot different?


Overall, I think it looks pretty good. Im actually a fan of darker woodwork, so my vote would be a little darker. I put two coats of stain on my wood and let each penetrate for 15 minutes before wiping them down. You may not want to go that dark though.


Ronnie


----------



## ebr

It looks like you got a pretty even stain take there but I want to make a suggestion in case you aren't already doing it. If that is pine (it looks like it) I highly suggest pre-treating the wood with a pre-stain conditioner before applying the stain. Makes a huge difference in how well a soft wood takes the stain.


Your samples look good, however, so my suggestion may be moot.


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


The light conditions are a little different. I'll try another sample piece, but I think I'm close. Maybe on more coat of stain. It definately looks better with poly. Does multiple coats make it any shinier? I mean satin is satin, but I don't want any reflects if I can avoid them.


ebr,


The wood is yellow pine (to match the doors) and I actually did two coats of the pre-stain wood conditioner, although not sure I mentioned it earlier. It looks like one blotch on the trim, I noticed that, which I expect you saw as well.


Bud


----------



## ebr

I figured you probably had - or had found some other type of pre-treat. Pine looks really bad if you don't use a conditioner and your samples looked nice and even.


Instead of another coat of poly, you might try going over it with some light steel wool and then putting furniture wax on it. Might give you the richness you want without the additional shine...


----------



## chinadog

The wax may just do the trick. I saw some at HD the other day, but didn't think I needed it. I'll give that a shot as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead and put together my first speaker grill. I had ripped down some very straight 2x4s over the weekend and used those. I didn't do anything fancy, I just butt-jointed the corners, countersunk some 2 1/2 inch deck screws and gorilla glued the seams.


Here's a the first shot:










I'm attempting to use the magnetic grill guides. Because the panel fits in a groove on one side, I'm only planning on using the magnets on one side. Here is a close up of the gorilla glue magnets on the grill and on the screen wall.


















When the glue sets up I'll give them a shot and see if I need to add any more. Then I'll paint them and wrap them in GOM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I finished up the side panels for the screen wall. I think I decided to wait until the carpet is in on the stage before I build the bottom panels. I figure that if I build them now and they go to the stage floor, then the carpet will butt up against the panel. If the carpet goes in first, then I can measure the exact height required to cover the enclosure. I also figure that with that small lip of stage in front of the sub enclosures, it'll be difficult for the carpet guy to work with that small area, putting in tack strips and wrapping the rounded edge. On the other hand, if I did the panels now, it would be a cleaner look probably.


Any one have any opinions on that?


OK, here is my halfassed spray paint job on the panel frames:










I went ahead and wrapped the panels and stapled the GOM using 1/2 inch staples. I made sure I didn't staple my magnets in the process (or my fingers for that matter). I then trimmed off the extra.










Here is one panel installed. The magnets seem to work pretty well. To line them up with each other, I put the panels up and drilled through both frames with a small bit. I then went back and drilled the 3/8 inch holes for the magnets. You have to pay attention to the polarity obviously. A good way to do that is put a black mark with a sharpie on one side. This has to be done before you GOM, BTW.










Heres what it looks like from the back of the room in various lights and flash. You can't really tell there are even panels there. I left enough room for my crown molding to go around the top as well.


























I used this technique I mentioned before and seems to have worked out pretty well. I only used magnets on the screen side of the frame.










Bud


----------



## jandawil

Looking real good Bud. It's funny that you can't notice the panels against the black paint and Linacoustis in the photos. I had the same issue, but you can see it in person and that's what counts. If you play with the brightness and contrast a bit on the pictures you can bring them out. I did my carpet first and than the panels. Your panels a built the same way mine are. I think mine looks very clean. One advantage of doing it in that order is they will be easier to remove if you even need to replace the GOM or get access to something. I plan on fashioning a hinging door on one for access to my gear and the carpet would hinder that. I also did my own stage carpet and used staples along the back and the panels hide them perfectly. I have worked with tack strips before and there is definately a reason I am not a carpet installer. I suck at it.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jon,


Thanks. I'm not adverse to seeing the panels or not. The panels are 62 inches high and I have a gap of maybe an inch on the screen side. It's also about the same depth as the screen fram, about 1.25 inches, so it does blend really well. You really have to walk up to it and know what to look for, although it may just look like a seam. I think the bottom ones will be more obvious, but I have some thoughts on how to hide them better as well. I'm able to pull the screen off if I really had to. I've done it a few hundred times already, although I don't expect to to do that much once all is set. I believe you build your screen, so its a different scenerio.


Bud


----------



## nosdude

Keep it coming chinadog......i'm definitely following your lead when I get to the stage construction of my project. Just completed my ceiling design.


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


A nice benefit of those side panels (as well as the black GOM on the soffit above the screen) is how much light they will soak up. I bought the flattest, blackest paint I could get and still have quite a bit of reflection from the screen. Your fabric is really going to "separate" the screen nicely!


I think I am going to start a new thread....."The reconstruction thread" or "The top 100 things I messed up while building my first HT". I wish the Blazing Ridge Cinema was under construction about a year and a half ago. Would have saved a lot of redo's.







Oh well, maybe that is part of the fun.


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nosdude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep it coming chinadog......i'm definitely following your lead when I get to the stage construction of my project. Just completed my ceiling design.



Looks like you've got your hands full, too. Pretty unique design, looks good!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> A nice benefit of those side panels (as well as the black GOM on the soffit above the screen) is how much light they will soak up. I bought the flattest, blackest paint I could get and still have quite a bit of reflection from the screen. Your fabric is really going to "separate" the screen nicely!
> 
> 
> I think I am going to start a new thread....."The reconstruction thread" or "The top 100 things I messed up while building my first HT". I wish the Blazing Ridge Cinema was under construction about a year and a half ago. Would have saved a lot of redo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, maybe that is part of the fun.
> 
> 
> Scott



Hey Scott.


The black GOM has done a great job of light control. I do see some reflection on the ceiling with the paint, but it's not bad really. Even with the frame painted black (pre-GOM), I could see the difference, although did still see a little reflection.


It seams like this thread has been around for a year and half already, although I think I fired it up in June, but was working for 6 months before that. I'll continue to update it after the HT room is done, I'll continue with the rest of the basement pictures and bring it to closure.


Bud


----------



## edmove

Where did you get the magnetic speaker guides? I may have to try that as well to cover my front stage.


Found these: MAGNETIC GRILL GUIDES 3/8" DIA x 3/16" H SET OF 8 


Cheers.


Ed - My HT Project


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Go to www.partexpress.com and do a search on "grill guides". Its on the bottom.


Bud


----------



## edmove

How far did you space them apart on your grills? Corners only?


Cheers.


Ed - My HT Project


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


I put four on the vertical piece of the panel on the screen side. I'd say about every 15 inches. They're pretty (incredibly) strong. BUT, you want to make sure you have then at the correct depth. You want the two to touch ideally (one in the panel and the other in the wall). With GOM wrapped around the edges, you'll want them a little raised a little, since the wood panel won't be flush. I made the mistake of drilling on hole too deep, when I inserted the magnet, it went below the surface. Luckily I made it way too deep and just pushed a second magnet in and it force the first back. I suppose you could just glue or attach some metal bracket or something and put magnets only in the screen wall, or vice versa, but I think having two makes it stronger. Depends on the materials used for the framing of the panels.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Very nice work on the proscenium so far Bud. I like it. I might steal that magnet idea for my center channel covers.


Ronnie


----------



## edmove

Any chance that a sub could rattle the magnets? I would be concerned with the metal making any noise. Even a little would be bad.


----------



## chinadog

Did you fill your stage full of sand? I haven't had any issues with playing around with it today. Buy a set of 8 for 5.00. You'll be surprised how strong they are. You can barely pull them apart. If you don't use them in your HT room, use them on your fridge!


Bud


----------



## Allen

Bud,


I have been thinking about piano hinges on one side and industrial velcro on the other to allow it to swing open like a door for access. Don't plan to have to access it much, but might need to from time to time. If the magnets don't rattle with strong base that might even be better.


Allen


----------



## chinadog

Allen,


The combination may be good, allows it to swing, but the magnets/velcro hold it in place when you need it to. The also have heavy duty speaker grill guides (plastic type) at PartsExpress. I picked up some heavy duty Velcro in case I needed it. I would think if the hinge is really holding the panel up, just about anything will hold it from opening.


Good thinking.


Bud


----------



## edmove

What is the color and maker of the paint you used on your ceiling? Also how many coats did you need?


Cheers.


Ed - My HT Project


----------



## chinadog

Its posted back a ways, but its Sherwin Williams Georgian Bay (6509) and I did three coats and a tinted coat of primer.


Bud


----------



## ScottJ0007

Bud,

I just thought I'd thank you for your tip on the Georgian Bay. I bought some last weekend and painted part of my ceiling. It looks GREAT! I love the color.

- Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottJ0007* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I just thought I'd thank you for your tip on the Georgian Bay. I bought some last weekend and painted part of my ceiling. It looks GREAT! I love the color.
> 
> - Scott



Scott,


Cool! I have to give credit where credit is due, to Doug (dcdell) for turning me on to the color first.


Here is a shot of his theater. He's got some great colors.










His construction thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654564 


Glad everyone likes it. Maybe its the new Milano Blue...







I just put my Georgian Bay trims with my black baffles up. Need to put up another picture.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

I like the G-bay color as well - I'm also a bandwagon junkie with no hope of getting original ideas. I'm going with Benjamin Moore paints as I can get a better price on them. Anyone know the equilvlant of G-bay in BM paints?


Love the progress Bud,



Gary


----------



## chinadog

Gary,


Thanks. I'm sure they could color match it. Pick up a swatch at Sherwin Williams and go from there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are the painted trims in Georgian Bay with the black baffles. I ended up using sponge brush after attending to use one of the "make your own spray paint devices" failed miserably. Thanks Milt. I guess I need to get a register cover and paint that as well. Oh, and yes, I see the white speck on the trim in the second picture!



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is the first batch of stained trim. I used the Minwax prestain, three coats of the water based Rosewood stain and two coats of the polyacrylic. I'll need to get some wax and see what happens. Still have a lot of staining to do still.



























Bud


----------



## Milt99

Trims look good Bud.

Yeah those damn specks.


----------



## chinadog

OK guys, need some opinions. Focused on the the projector box today. This is what I have so far. I used drawer slides to give me access. I still need to build the front, bottom and back access panels, so its no where near complete. I'll need to paint and GOM it as well. I also need to deal with the front vent, but I think I'm going to extend the front by about two inches.


Any comments on the design?


----------



## swithey












Bud,


I love the idea of it sliding out away from the projector like a drawer. Do you plan to have a removable front plate to cover the front (attached with magnets)? Also the stain looks GREAT. I really like the color. Damn nice looking HT


----------



## chinadog

Hey Steve,


Thanks. I think I'm going to hinge the front on the bottom of the panel and either use magnets or velcro. This way, I can swing the front down and slide it back when required. I'm thinking of 1/4 masonite for the bottom panel and haven't decided on the back yet. Needs to be vented, though. I think when its all GOMed, it should look decent.


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Hey Bud,


I've always wondered about these boxes. If the PJ is completely covered up, it can't breathe. If it has openings to breathe, doesn't that let the sound of the fan escape (which I presume is the reason for the box in the first place)? I have the AE 700 and the fan set to low. I honestly can say that the noise is not the least bit distracting, however I am always open to new ideas.


Anyway, that being said........I think the drawer slides are ingenious. Love the stained trim and the painted baffles blend right in with the ceiling. BTW, the problem with DIY is that you know where every little problem lurks (like that miniscule white speck on the light trim). That would drive me nuts too, but no one else would ever notice. That's one of those instances where my wife just looks at me and nods (then goes and laughs when she is out of ear shot).


----------



## rsberg34

Aint that the truth sdspga....dang wives and thier runnin off to laugh at you, lol


Mine does it too, I guess thats what seperates us from them...noticing the little stuff.


Love the stained trim Bud should look great when its up....ever give any thought to staining the hush box the same color instead of covering it with GOM? I wasnt sure if you had planned some kind of stained wood anywhere near the soffet or not but I doubt your going that route. Those cans with the matching trim pieces look great...good contrast between the Georgia Bay and the black.


Robert


----------



## rsberg34

Oh yeah...the slides on the box is cool too...very nice idea and should prove handy in the future too.


Robert


----------



## chinadog

For me, I just want to hide the projector. Its not the noise.


I'll vent the back and I have that vent in front of the projector, which is actually an intake. I have a thermostat that will be inside the projector box that will kick in at a set temperature and turn on the inline fan that will pull the hot air from the box.


Even though its small, I was hoping when I put GOM on it, it'll blend a lot better. I don't want it to stick out like a sore thumb (or a swollen middle finger with a staple in it in my case....)


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Aint that the truth sdspga....dang wives and thier runnin off to laugh at you, lol
> 
> 
> Mine does it too, I guess thats what seperates us from them...noticing the little stuff.
> 
> 
> Love the stained trim Bud should look great when its up....ever give any thought to staining the hush box the same color instead of covering it with GOM? I wasnt sure if you had planned some kind of stained wood anywhere near the soffet or not but I doubt your going that route. Those cans with the matching trim pieces look great...good contrast between the Georgia Bay and the black.
> 
> 
> Robert



I actually painted the projector box flat black last night. I'll use the black GOM to cover it so it blends better with that last piece of GOM I have to install. Didn't even think about staining it. That would have abeen a good idea as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Doesn't quite stick out as much with just a little paint on it.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

I've received a few questions on the IR setup and the light control. Here's what I've done with my setup and hopefully that clears things up some. Please let me know if this drawing is confusing or if you have any questions. Hopefully its legible enough. It's too big to post as an attachment.









*EDIT!!!

I changed this one more time (3rd time), since I figured out a better way to handles scenes using the SMST6. This one is the latest and greatest.*


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Great post Bud, added straight to my reference file.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Replace the one you have, I just updated and replaced it for grammatical reasons.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Easy enough. Thanks.


----------



## rsberg34

Thats a very informative post...thanks Bud!!


I cedrtainly dont know enough about that stuff. I want all the cool scenes like you have but I think I am going to hire that part out to the pros...unless a lightbulb flashes in my head before its time to put that stuff in. It just cornfuses me to all hell and back, lol


Robert


----------



## ebr

Robert, I don't want to disparage Bud's great work at all because he did an awesome job setting all this up, but you can have that same functionality much easier with a Lutron Grafik Eye. No programming, no X-10, no need to hire a professional (other than possibly an electrician).


So, if you are a DIY nut and love to tinker and put this stuff together, Bud has a great plan and setup. But, if you just want scene-based lighting you can go with a packaged solution.


----------



## chinadog

I agree with ebr, this is just one way of doing it and I went X10 because I had X10 and thought it would be cheaper for me to go that route versus the Lutron GE, but based on the number of dimmers, etc., it probably came out to about the same. Now, if you had two circuits you wanted to control, thats another story. My way is a good alternative then. Every situation, room, budget, preferences are different obviously.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Steve,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I think I'm going to hinge the front on the bottom of the panel and either use magnets or velcro. This way, I can swing the front down and slide it back when required. I'm thinking of 1/4 masonite for the bottom panel and haven't decided on the back yet. Needs to be vented, though. I think when its all GOMed, it should look decent.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I am just catching up on all of your progress and everything is looking great! I have been so busy working on our new deck I haven't been able to do any theater stuff lately.










Anyhow, I really like the projector box but I don't know about using magnets that close to the projector. Do you think that they are close enough to the PJ to have a negative impact?


----------



## chinadog

Here is what I'm thinking about as far as seating is concerned. Due to size limitations, I have some limited options on the seats. The riser is not very deep because of the door, so I'll have some overhang unfortunately. I'm not sure if I want to take up the complete width of the riser with the 4 seat combination or just go with three on the back row. I have sat in the 090s and although they seem a little short in the back for me, I'm ok with that. The way I expect the seating to be used is 50% me alone, 40% for the family of four and 10% more than four.


Any opinions or thoughts?









Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I am just catching up on all of your progress and everything is looking great! I have been so busy working on our new deck I haven't been able to do any theater stuff lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I really like the projector box but I don't know about using magnets that close to the projector. Do you think that they are close enough to the PJ to have a negative impact?



Not sure really, one reason I was thinking velcro. Better safe than sorry, I suppose.


How much do you have left on the deck?


Bud


----------



## ridetheducati

I vote for option B.


All members will have their own seat. I am not a big fan of love-seats.


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Bud, My vote is for Option A.


I say fill up that back row with seating. Wall to wall. Especially since there is no need to walk around the back row. Do you have enough room to put another arm in between the double seat?



Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, My vote is for Option A.
> 
> 
> I say fill up that back row with seating. Wall to wall. Especially since there is no need to walk around the back row. Do you have enough room to put another arm in between the double seat?
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Nope. It comes out to 137 inches I think, so I'm short a few inches (don't go there...







)


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with ebr, this is just one way of doing it and I went X10 because I had X10 and thought it would be cheaper for me to go that route versus the Lutron GE, but based on the number of dimmers, etc., it probably came out to abbott the same. Now, if you had two lights you want to control, thats another story. Every situation, room, budget, preferences are different obviously.
> 
> 
> Bud



Good point. If you don't need 6 zones, the DIY route could be much cheaper.


Ridetheducati - you need a date







. Love seats can be good...


Tough call on the seating, Bud but I think you need to be careful about jamming them too close to the back/sides - even if you don't need to walk around them. Acoustics will be very difficult close to those boundaries.


----------



## StewartFan20

As far as your seating options go, I'm not sure if you have kids or not. If you do, you might want to consider Option A. It gives an extra seat for the kids friends and that's one less person who would have to be banished to the floor.


I'm going with four 090's in the back row which basically fills up the riser with wall-to-wall seating. Its a tight fit. But, with our kids always having friends over, I thought squeezing in the extra seat was worth it.


Just my thoughts.


-Bill


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


I have a four year old and a six year old. I'd rather have the kids and firends here than elsewhere.


ebr,


I've had to make some compromises with the back row on closeness to due lack or room. I believe I gave Bryan six seats for his acoustic calculations if it matters. I don't want to feel squished, but trying to maximize seating obviously.


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


I vote Option A. I have arms between all my seats, but the loveseat idea would be nice when it is just the wife and I. (Movies with no arm in between count as quality time I think)


If you had said more than 10% usage with the guys over, I would change my mind. Might be kind of wierd watching the Bears-Packers game with my buddy and I in that loveseat










Come to think of it, can you have Reaper re-render your theater to "Brokeback Ridge" Sorry, I couldn't pass that up. Slow day at work


Scott


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Good point about the games, although if all the other seats were open and you guys were sitting in the loveseat, well, thats a whole different story.


Another point, for me, for serious movie enjoyment, I'd be in the front row and chances are I'll be in there myself at late at night. My wife won't watch a lot of movies at night unless we're all there watching the latest kid release. For family movies with the kids, I'd probably be in the back row anyway. For games, it doesn't matter much to me either way.


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

Bud,


What if you go with Option A, but with Berkline 088 in the rear. This is what I did to gain a little width. You will probably save about 12" or so in overall width.


I have 090 in the front row and the 088's in the back in tha same layout as you.


J-dubb


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J-dubb16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> What if you go with Option A, but with Berkline 088 in the rear. This is what I did to gain a little width. You will probably save about 12" or so in overall width.
> 
> 
> I have 090 in the front row and the 088's in the back in tha same layout as you.
> 
> 
> J-dubb



I thought about the 088/090 route, but discounted it for two reasons. First, I wanted to have the two rows uniform in appearance. The two types are too different for my taste. I believe Roman suggested at one point that there were two different types of Berks that are very similar in appearance and differ in size. That was the route I originally though about, putting 4 smaller ones in the rear and the larger in front. I can't find that info again though. I thought they were 094s and 084s or something, but every time I try to find them I get frustrated. I then figured I'd just do five 090s, then played around with the Berkline HT seating site and figured I had a few inches to play with with the loveseat combo.


Second, even though I plan on 50% of my time in front row, that still time in the back row. I have not sat in the 088s, but from what I hear, I don't think I'd fit (6'4", 250ish, proportional, not leggy), so I just figured I'd stick to things that fit me regardless where I sit. The 090s are even a small compromise.


Bud


----------



## GPowers

Had the same problem. I'am 6'4" 230 or sooo. We went with the 088's. For a couple of reasons.


First our room is only 15' by 20' and we did not want the chairs to over power the room or be out of scale. The 088's were the right scale.


We also wanted at least seating for eight. The 088' also fix that requirements.


The back of the 088's are low enough not to block you ears from getting the side channel speakers/surroundsound.


Cost was reasonable.


So we purchased 8 burk 088's


----------



## ebr

Bud, I'm going to be doing 8 088s as well - same reasons as Greg. Just FYI, the actual seating area difference between the two is 2.5". The rest of its in the armrest. I had the 090s in my last room and my wife and I could almost sit in one - they are big. So, anyway, you might consider 088s still...


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Its the height of the back of the chair. 37.5 inches versus 41" for the 090s. I actually thought the 090's weren't high enough when I sat in them, but were doable. I have not sat in the 088s though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had the same problem. I'am 6'4" 230 or sooo. We went with the 088's. For a couple of reasons.
> 
> 
> First our room is only 15' by 20' and we did not want the chairs to over power the room or be out of scale. The 088's were the right scale.
> 
> 
> We also wanted at least seating for eight. The 088' also fix that requirements.
> 
> 
> The back of the 088's are low enough not to block you ears from getting the side channel speakers/surroundsound.
> 
> 
> Cost was reasonable.
> 
> 
> So we purchased 8 burk 088's



Greg,


Can you comfortably put your head back when you recline and have it supported? What about in the upright position?


Bud


----------



## GPowers

According to all the pros you do not want the back of the chair to block your ears. If you block your ears, you inhibit the path of the surondsound. only hearing sound that comes from in front of you as you have block any sound coming from behind you.


And soundsound is one the big reasons we spend all this money on these dedicate home theaters.


----------



## chinadog

Good point!


Bud


----------



## larryep

hey chinadog,


i decided to go with 3 in a wedge for the rear and a loveseat for the front. i am going to se how that will fit and if i could use a chair in the middle of the loveseat i'll get one with two arms on each side. The ones i ordered are the 088. 088 would save room width wise. but if i remember right you are 6 foot 4 inches. Have you sat in 088? for me at 5, 10" they are a good fit.sorry as i caught up to your thread i relized you have not tried the088's.


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


I could do a wedge in the front row, the riser isn't depth enough. I have not tried the 088s. I need to reconsider the 088s if I can find one to try out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, I'll reconsider the 088s, but definitely want to sit in them. Need to find somewhere local in Atlanta.


Here are my options now:










I think two seats in the 088s won't be enough. I'd still have 24 inches on either side of the front row with three.


Bud


----------



## ebr

The 7-chair 088 setup looks great - but you have to be sure you like those seats.


----------



## larryep

Bud


berk builder is in Morristown, TN. it is 260 miles from you.


larryep.


----------



## GPowers

Option C. Does not look a crowded in as option A


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Right, understand..


Larry,


Right, thats the factory. I understand the have "outlet sales" every quarter. I think BuffBakerGA went up there last year and got his seats there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Option C. Does not look a crowded in as option A



Yeah, gives me another 17 inches total on the sides.


Bud


----------



## richh

Bud,


I picked 088's for the same reasons as others have posted; wanting to maximize the number of guests my theater can hold with a limited width room. When reclined, it is very comfortable and my head is fully supported. When upright, it's more like sitting on a couch; there's no support for your head (for reference I'm 6'0").


One good thing about option C is the fact that the chairs are staggered. This should help with sightlines for the occupants in the second row as they would be looking between heads.


I would definitely try out some 088's if possible.


----------



## ronnie_jackson

If you go with the 88's, my choice is option C.


Ronnie


----------



## revans35

Bud,


If you do the 088s in the front for 2-3 seats, you should consider a wedge. I think that will give the front row a nice look.


Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Seems I have some more work to do. I'll price out the wedge option as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the last image with option E.
















*EDIT: I added the curved back row for Ronnie (option F).
*

Bud


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. Seems I have some more work to do. I'll price out the wedge option as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



When I bought my chairs, it did not make a difference wedge vs straight. Both configurations were the same price. I ended up with a curved row of 5 for the back and a love seat flanked on either side by a wedged chair for the front.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I bought my chairs, it did not make a difference wedge vs straight. Both configurations were the same price. I ended up with a curved row of 5 for the back and a love seat flanked on either side by a wedged chair for the front.



Hey Rich,


Thanks. I just found that out from Kyle at Carolina Furniture Group.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Ok, Im with option E now. The wedge is the ONE.....


I had planned on buying wedges with mine, but I ran across a deal I couldnt pass up, so no wedges.



Just to make you work a little harder, try out a wedge on the inside of the outside 2 chairs of the back row.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, Im with option E now. The wedge is the ONE.....
> 
> 
> I had planned on buying wedges with mine, but I ran across a deal I couldnt pass up, so no wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make you work a little harder, try out a wedge on the inside of the outside 2 chairs of the back row.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Done. Editted the other file in the post above. The problem there is the riser depth. I only have like 66 inches and we're already hanging off.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - don't wedge the back row. IMO that space is much better used getting the back row as far off the back wall as possible. Also, I notice you have left more than enough room to fully recline the rear seats and still have room to the front ones. Consider that you will pretty much never fully recline the seats (unless you're taking a nap) so, you can probably nudge that rear row a little further forward.


Can you tell I really don't like that back row along the back wall...







.


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Good point about the reclining. I don't think I could do curved in the back row anyway. I'll have to play with how much room behind the seats once I have something in hand. If I go with seven seats, I may be buying one row at first, so that'll end up in front anyway. I'll have to figure that out. I take it you like option E?


Bud


----------



## ebr

Yeah, E has a nice feel to it - as long as the extra width of the curve doesn't encroach on your walkway to the back.


----------



## chinadog

Dave (dc_pilgrim) and others,


I updated the home theater light control drawing one more time. I was quizzing GPowers (Greg) on his light control and then it hit me. Instead of using the SMST6 to control scenes by mapping multiple X10 codes to its buttons, I just use one housecode... a trigger! I can define a button like "A" on the SMST6 to send "B8 ON", which the Powerlinc controller will interpret as a macro or scene and trigger all those other switches to whatever level I want them. Again, the Powelinc's control is done with the software and a USB cable to your PC. It's a beautiful thing. In fact, you could use the trigger to adjust the heat, turn on the fan in the equipment closet, whatever you want to automate. You could theoretically use the SMST6 and define multiple triggers per button.


Anyway, the diagram has been updated to reflect the light bulb that went off in my head. Must have sent it a trigger, I suppose.










Here's that post its (#1410):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7464803 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, E has a nice feel to it - as long as the extra width of the curve doesn't encroach on your walkway to the back.



Actually, I would think it would be better because the end seats leave a wider opening at the corners. The back of the middle seat would be the same distance to the back row regardless of which is there.


Ahhh, reread that. You're referring to the overall width. Got it.


Bud


----------



## rsh

Bud


If you ask me I would do either 6 090s or 6 (possibly 7) 088s , and I would stay with the straight configuration. There are several reasons for that. First, I like even numbers because if you have couples over, there is no chance someone will be without a seat. I also like a loveseat on 090s - you can put 3-4 kids in it if you have a movie party there. The 7 088s also look good just from esthetic point of view. The other good reason is, that when you order 6 or more seats shipping drops per seat and you save a nice chunk of money.


Regarding matching seats from different style groups. Yes, there were 079 style group, which was essentially a 090 chair with the back cushion very similar to 086 back cushion (check my website: http://www.rtheaters.com/page6.html to see the 086 style group). The 079 was dropped, BUT I CAN STILL GET IT FOR YOU (only specific pieces available - 52s and 53s and not for long - closeout deal)


Regarding 090s vs. 088s - this topic was discussed so much !!!


If you are 5'9" or taller and you want a head support you need to go with the 090s. Otherwise the 088s will do a nice job. These are comfortable smaller chairs, and many folks are happy with them.


Roman


----------



## chinadog

Roman, Thanks for the reply. Just sent you a PM.


I expect we won't be having many couple nights. We'll have ocassional family and a few friends here or there for sporting events.


I understand the 090s vs the 088s. I was really thinking 090s and these guys have convinced me to take a second look on the 088s. The combination of the 079s/086s might be the trick though. The 086s are the smaller of the two, correct? What are the back heights for those? Greg had a good point about blocking sound, although I expect to be in the front row most of the time.


Bud


----------



## rsh

Bud,


The 086 have dimensions of the 088s - same chair, different back cushion ( http://rtheaters.com/bsch086.html ) The 079 are essentially 090s with similar cushion of the 086.


Unfortunately the only pieces which are left on the 079s are 53 and 52.


53

IO


52

OI


The 090/079s will not block your surround sound unless you are shorter than 5'8" - 5'9"


Roman


----------



## chinadog

Roman,


Thanks, that's definately helpful, but unfortunate about the limitation on the 79s. I guess thats why they're a deal. I'll think through the new options.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud - duly noted on the dimming materials. Still a ways off before I figure out dimming (insteon/X-10 vs Graphic Eye), but I appreciate the write up.


I am late to the game, but I like options A, C, and E for the seats. But its mostly a more is better approach.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I expect the technology will change anyway. I just got the Smarthome catalog and it looks like there are more and more Insteon products. Who knows what'll be availble when you're ready.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud -


I got my 088's at Leather World in Norcross. About $400.00 a seat no power and covered in a gray nu-suede material. Theyre sitting there now in their warehouse waiting for me to finish the room.


Kevin -


PS.. they have them there in groups so you can sit on a bunch of the different model numbers..


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


Thanks. Seems like there are a few options I can check out now in the area. I may be able to check them out Friday on the way to pick up my brother from the airport.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

what was cool about Leather world was that they had a bunch of different manufacturers represented. I think Palliser and a few other folks. A big area with just theater seating and all of them in groups of three and four so you could take measurements as well. . If you cant find something that works there.....



Kevin -


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ordered paint grade trim for the basement this morning (minus the HT and concession rooms, which I'll get later and get stain grade) through my neighbor. He said he'd have it here today, although not sure I'd be able to do anything for a few days anyway. I calculated that I needed about 450 feet of crown and 150 feet of base molding. This includes an extra 10%. Not looking forward to seeing this bill...
> 
> 
> Bud


 Great Googly Moogly! 


I just got the trim bill from my neighbor. ONLY 262.00! Man, paint grade crown for 0.29 a foot and 5 1/4" base for 0.69 a foot. That's like 1/5 of the Home Depot cost. No wonder his house is so nice, he gets everything so cheap!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Question for your folks that have the 088s. Are the armrests sufficient? Based on my calculations the 088s have are about 4.5 inches wide and the 090 armrests are 7 inches wide. Any comments there?


I'm trying to sit in them tomorrow, but was curious if anyone had opinions.


Bud


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for your folks that have the 088s. Are the armrests sufficient? Based on my calculations the 088s have are about 4.5 inches wide and the 090 armrests are 7 inches wide. Any comments there?
> 
> 
> I'm trying to sit in them tomorrow, but was curious if anyone had opinions.
> 
> 
> Bud




Depends on how big your arms are as well as how much your mid section spaces them out







. This is where a curved section would help as those arms are about 8" near the backrest, tapering to about 5" in the front. That's plenty in my opinion, we've never had any issues with bumping elbows.


----------



## chinadog

Rich, thanks. True about the wedge, didn't think about that. I'm hoping I'll be able to sit in them tomorrow and see what happens.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Damn... I was about 200 posts behind in your thread. I can't even remember everything I read, so I'll just say get back to work and quit worrying about chairs.


----------



## chinadog

It may be a few days.... my brother and his family arrive today, my sister and her family arrive next week. Between all the trips back and forth to the airport, Easter, Braves game, Aquarium visit, etc. I'm not going to get much done for about a week. Maybe some small things here or there. A few coats of stain on some trim, etc.


Oh and then there's work, that nasty little booger.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, I lied.










I snuck downstairs during lunch and put up my tracking for the last section of GOM around the projector. As you can see, the track goes around the box. When I put the sliding portion of the box up, I left myself about a 1/4 inch of room to allow the box to slide without touching the installed GOM on the soffit. I mitred the corners of the track and glued/screwed them. I actually put the front piece in the wrong position, but realized that and corrected it quickly.


I also need to order like 1 yard of black GOM for the box.




























Bud


----------



## dropper

Please forgive me, but what is GOM?


Thanks,

Keith


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dropper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please forgive me, but what is GOM?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith



Guilford of Maine the company that makes the fabric. It a commercial

grade fabric that has an approved fire rating for wall surfaces


----------



## chinadog

Well, it took me 2 hours and 15 mins to get back from the airport today, normally 45 minutes with no traffic. MAN!


I went to Georgia Home Theater on Cobb Parkway in Marietta. They had the 88s and the 90s. I was surprised that my legs actually were supported as well as they were with the 88s. For me, it did feel a little small though. It's a tough call. If I had another foot or two in width, I'd definitely go the 090s route. I think they're a good size for me. Anyway, need to chew on it a little more.


Bud


----------



## ridetheducati

How long did you sit in the 88's? I have learned it takes roughly 30-45 minutes to get a feel for a chair. Like you, I am torn between (3) 88's or (2) 90's for my back row.


----------



## chinadog

Not too long, proably less than 10 mins each seat. I sat in a lot of traffic heading down there (about 1/2 an hour away) on the way to the airport, so I was pressed for time. Who knows, I may take another run down next week.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Well, it took me 2 hours and 15 mins to get back from the airport today, normally 45 minutes with no traffic. MAN



!


Well, that helps confirm it.....Atlanta traffic really is worse than Chicago. I thought doing battle on the Kennedy Expressway was bad, but I have always heard Atlanta is worse. You should stock some mannequins in the trunk so you can pull them out and use that carpool lane when necessary










Have a great weekend Bud!


Scott


----------



## jerrodshook

I'm thinking about the Berks a bit more now. I used to have a source to get the Coaster chairs at cost, but it's no more. The 88's would let me do a 3 row and 4 in the back... what you're thinking right?


BTW, the hushbox and the sliding deal is a great idea.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Well, that helps confirm it.....Atlanta traffic really is worse than Chicago. I thought doing battle on the Kennedy Expressway was bad, but I have always heard Atlanta is worse. You should stock some mannequins in the trunk so you can pull them out and use that carpool lane when necessary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a great weekend Bud!
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott,


Thanks.


I had 5 people in the car. The HOV lanes don't make a difference, since they eventually just merge into the regular highway 15 miles south of where I have to get off anyway. Those 15 miles are the worst, too. It was the early rush hour due to the holiday. I know ALL the shortcuts, tricks and traffic patterns, it was just bad timing.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about the Berks a bit more now. I used to have a source to get the Coaster chairs at cost, but it's no more. The 88's would let me do a 3 row and 4 in the back... what you're thinking right?
> 
> 
> BTW, the hushbox and the sliding deal is a great idea.



Thanks. Yeah, take a gander at those pictures I posted and that'll give you an idea of widths of 88s and 90s in multiple configurations.


Oh, and stop talking about chairs and get back to work.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Had the chance to finish out the GOM under the soffit around the projector. The first shot is a little blurry, but shows the GOMed area around the mounted portion of the box. I basically started by stapling on the back wall, then worked my way forward, making sure I tucked the section sides in the track as I went to keep it taunt. I had taken the projector down, so I just had to work around the mount by taking out the waste for the box, then kept tucking into the track I installed around it. I just kept tucking and trimming until the underside of the soffit was complete, then worked it up over the cove and stapled in the trey. I finished out the seams on the slanted part of the cove by using a cardboard piece to give me the clean edge and used brads to secure it. The second shot is with the box resinstalled. I have enough room to slide the box back without touching the GOM.



















I may have enough black GOM now to do the box, will try and get that done today if I have the chance.


Happy Easter!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looks great Bud! Check your PM.


Jason


----------



## chinadog

Had a couple of hours this am, since I had taken the day off. Well, just had what I would call a major mishap. I was starting to stain the door jamb into the theater room when I dropped the half quart of stain I was holding!







It went all over the place, including all over me. Most of it ended up on the outside of the theater room, but some ended up on the riser. Fortunately, not a single drop ended on the fabric on the walls. MAN, WAS I LUCKY! It ended up all over the walls on the outside of the theater room, the stairs, the floor and all over me. Luckily I was able to wipe down the jamb quickly before it messed that up.










Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Thats what happens when you start drinking early in the morning.







You better stick to the coffee from now on.


Ronnie


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had a couple of hours this am, since I had taken the day off. Well, just had what I would call a major mishap. I was starting to stain the door jamb into the theater room when I dropped the half quart of stain I was holding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It went all over the place, including all over me. Most of it ended up on the outside of the theater room, but some ended up on the riser. Fortunately, not a single drop ended on the fabric on the walls. MAN, WAS I LUCKY! It ended up all over the walls on the outside of the theater room, the stairs, the floor and all over me. Luckily I was able to wipe down the jamb quickly before it messed that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



I feel ya Bud. Did the same thing Saturday with a cup of paint white doing cut-ins. Fortunately I did not go with plan A which called for carpet than paint. disaster averted...


----------



## surdev

Hey Bud!


Great Construction thread and thanks for all your detail post with lots of tips. Man can't believe I spent last 4 day reading thru all 50 pages, very informative. Its going to help me a lot when I start my designing process.


Good Luck!


-Suresh.


----------



## larryep

good to hear it was not that bad. Really sucks when you have to take 2 steps backwards, but on the other hand after 10 months of steps what is another step!!


----------



## chinadog

Another interesting thing. I filled my nail holes in the jamb with wood putty, let it dry, sanded it and took a tack cloth and cleaned it up. Where I used the wood putty (and the immediate surrounding area, did not take the stain as well. I have like blemishes now that look funny. Unfortunately, on all my pine doors, I used the same stuff. Anyone else have this problem or know how to get around it? It says its sandible and stainable.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Where I used the wood putty (and the immediate surrounding area, did not take the stain as well. I have like blemishes now that look funny.



Yes, I had the same problem on my oak bar where the holes were filled. One thing I tried that made it look a lot better was to buy colored putty that matched my bar. Less noticeable. A friend of mine had success with mixing a little of his stain to the putty to color it. Hope this helps.


Scott


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Where I used the wood putty (and the immediate surrounding area, did not take the stain as well. I have like blemishes now that look funny.



Yes, I had the same problem on my oak bar where the holes were filled. One thing I tried that made it look a lot better was to buy colored putty that matched my bar. Less noticeable. A friend of mine had success with mixing a little of his stain to the putty to color it. Hope this helps. BTW, you can still see where the grain is interrupted by the hole, though.


Scott


----------



## sdspga

sorry for the double post.....what a NOOB!


----------



## chinadog

Well, it's too late for that for the jambs at least. I know you can buy the color putty, but they didn't have the correct color when I looked originally. The casing, base and crown, I'll prestain and poly before putting it up. Now I have to figure out the best way to resolve the issue so it'll blend. Not sure if I should just sand it all off and restart.


Pretty disappointing day between dropping the stain and seeing how the area around the holes came out. I'm reluctant to do the second coat until I can figure out what the problem is.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thats what happens when you start drinking early in the morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You better stick to the coffee from now on.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



I just need to switch to caffeinated beer, thats all.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *surdev* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud!
> 
> 
> Great Construction thread and thanks for all your detail post with lots of tips. Man can't believe I spent last 4 day reading thru all 50 pages, very informative. Its going to help me a lot when I start my designing process.
> 
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> 
> -Suresh.



Not a problem, welcome to the fun!


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


What about using a touchup pen or crayon type thing? I assume the puttied area isn't as dark.... right? If so, you could use a darker pen or the crayon to darken it up a bit. I've done this before and it worked. If you do use the pen, just dab it on and then rub it in/wipe it off. That might work.... try it on a junk piece first.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud....


I've heard of woodwoorkers using glue and sawdust from the wood they are building with to create a filler that matches exactly, and stains just as good as the original. I can't say that I've tried it, but it sounds like it would work.

Hope this helps


Sean


----------



## bpape

I've used the trick Sean is referring to. It works very well - learned it from an old cabinet maker I was working with one time.


----------



## chinadog

Wish I had known that before... thanks. No sure where to go from here, except start sanding. Will try Jerrod's suggestion and see what happens.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Take a slightly larger drill bit than the area you are repairing. Drill it out slightly and then fill it with the appropriate material.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

I don't think that'll work. A picture is worth a thousand words... It seems everywhere I rubbed the woodfill, ended up not taking the stain, although the actual spot where the nail is was taken.










Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Ya, the picture helped. I was thinking it was only the small hole that you filled that didnt match. Looks like you going to have to sand out a larger area and re-try it.


A finish nailer and the appropriate nails would have helped a lot also. You probably wouldnt have even noticed them.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Well, I used both finish nails and brads... what you see is not a nail, its the filled in nail hole. It did take the stain. I use a few brads when the jamb is first installed to plumb everything, then I drill and use 8 penny finish nails through the shims to secure the jamb permanently.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I was just playing with my Ryobi detail sander on a scrap piece of wood, looks like it I sand id good, it'll work. I think I'll sand the whole jamb an restain it. The other jambs I'll just sand the filler down really well before attempting to stain.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I used both finish nails and brads... what you see is not a nail, its the filled in nail hole. Bud



Wow, im getting old. That looks just like a huge nail head. Sorry Bud. I should know that you are on top of all this and use the correct tools. Especially since I read your thread daily.


Ronnie


----------



## ebr

Did you use the wood conditioner after filling?


----------



## chinadog

Yes, prestained after filling in the holes. It was the plastic wood, that was probably my first mistake. They make different colors as well, I went with a large can and it was natural. Didn't seem to matter, since it was stainable. They said to stain the wood first, then use the filler, but it was already hung, since it was a jamb. I ended up using my Ryobi detail sander and just sanded it and restained it. It's much better, although as usual, you're your own worst critic. At least its not obvious. Will post a second picture tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Hey Bud, I have tried the sawdust/glue trick many times and the success factor really depends on the wood that you are working with. I have found that Wunderfil is a great product that works on almost all stain/paint grade wood. You can get it from Rockler . Hopefully yours turns out for you, as you say you are your own worst critic. I however, say you are doing a great job as it is looking fantastic










Drew


----------



## jerrodshook

Don't worry about it Bud.... no one else but you will ever notice it, see it, think about it, or remember it!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I have tried the sawdust/glue trick many times and the success factor really depends on the wood that you are working with. I have found that Wunderfil is a great product that works on almost all stain/paint grade wood. You can get it from Rockler . Hopefully yours turns out for you, as you say you are your own worst critic. I however, say you are doing a great job as it is looking fantastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drew



Noted. Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

More black GOM on the way. Thought I had enough for the projector box, but no luck. Should be here in the next day or so.


My brother was a help, he did a little poly yesterday on the casing and then we did the pre-stain and 1st coat of stain on the remainder of the casing. Base molding and crown should go quicker, but still have three jambs and four doors to do.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Went to Big Orange today during lunch to finalize the bar plans and cabinets for the concession area. They turned me away, needed an appointment. Grrrrrr







. Going back tomorrow during lunch though. Spent some time looking at flooring with the wife as well, we brought home some samples and made an appointment for someone to come out and do the official measure. I'm hoping to finalize the flooring in the next week for the whole basement and place the order. Of course, the install won't happen for a few weeks the way I'm going, but its motivational!


Yeah, I know Jerrod, back to work ....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

The extra black GOM arrived for the projector box. It was actually sitting on the front porch since yesterday. They must have come when I was at Home Depot.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's what we're thinking about going with for carpet and flooring. It's not an exciting carpet with a pattern or anything, but it compliments the Lido GOM well. I didn't want any clashes between the carpet and material. The carpet is a "Trafficmaster", 100% Nylon carpet - Type 6,6 BCG Nylon, Style Regatta 359, 48 oz. weight. It's density is 2.764 and twist is rated at 6.0. It's about 26.00 a square yard installed, including pad.


The first picture is "Creme Caramel" color.










The second is "Sanded Silk" color.










Not sure if you can tell the difference in two carpets, the top one is a little less tan. Any body like one over the other? The Creme Caramel is on the right column in the middle. The Sanded Silk is top row in the middle.










The actual stained trim is a little darker (a little redder actually) as well. The small piece was wiped on and off quickly, whereas the real pieces were brushed on and wiped on, but the stain was on longer since it was a bigger piece. I still like it though.


Also, the Laminate in the picture is probably what I'll end up in the concession area and the gameroom. I thought about glue down, but decided its not worth the pain. It's a Dupont laminate, "Merbau Block", product code FG8010. It has the preinstalled foam underlayment and has a 30 year wear warranty. It's special order, but right now its 20% off, so its around 3.10 a square foot.


The measurement guy comes on Monday.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


I'm leaning toward the "Sanded Silk". It's a little darker (by my monitor) and might be better for hiding dirt and such, and maybe disappear when the lights are off during a movie.


We had our carpet installed from "big orange" and I have to say, go with the upgraded pad. The top of the pad is coated and prevents spills from passing all the way through to the floor, and makes for easier clean-up. Not to mention it sure feels good under foot. For only $1/sqyd, I think it's worth it.


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Thanks for the reply. Good point and noted. I usually upgrade pad anyway. I used to use a rubber pad, which really helps with spills.


Also, I'm still out on the black stage. I want to go with black carpet on the stage. Saw some yesterday, but not sure of this carpet next to it and how that'll look. This carpet is a Frieze, the black carpet is a standard pile. What do you think?


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - just my opinion, but I wouldn't go with a carpet that light. That's a lot of surface area to reflect...


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, I know its light. I've thought about that. Its so dark now, I'm concerned about the cave look. I'm reluctant to go much darker though. I think the black on the stage will help, I really don't want to match the green either, it would be like being in a can of pea soup.


I'll have to use the large sample and test the reflections and see if it makes a difference.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


I like the idea of the black carpet for the stage, but I'm not sure how it will look with the Frieze. The black would look nice against the black GOM on the front wall.

Maybe run the "Sanded Silk" up the riser of the stage, and then do the black over the lip and on top. That makes the fieze look a little darker and "bunchier"(if that's really a word), before meeting the black. Other option might be to pick a dark color out of the carpet you choose in a frieze, and cover the stage in that. So that all the carpet texture will be the same.


Straight black carpet shows a lot of dust and carpet "pills" from other carpets as you move from one to the other.


Sean


----------



## ScottJ0007

I like the Sanded Silk.


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, the Laminate in the picture is probably what I'll end up int he concession area and the gameroom. I thought about glue down, but decided its not worth the pain. It's a Dupont laminate, "Merbau Block", product code FG8010. It has the preinstalled foam underlayment and has a 30 year wear warranty. It's special order, but right now its 20% off, so its around 3.10 a square foot.
> 
> 
> The measurement guy comes on Monday.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, If you've got a Lumber Liquidators near you, I would go look at their DreamHome Nirvana V3 Laminate before buying anything. I've had laminate in my first home (Pergo), and I've looked at just about every laminate on the market to put down in the house I just vacated to turn into a lease house. I wanted something that would wear well, be water resistant, and go together well. The first one is obvious. My biggest complaint about Pergo was that if it got wet at all it would immediately start to bubble, and when you have kids there are tons of spills. And it didn't go together well at all. When you put the pieces together, occasionally you'd have pieces that didn't fit well or absolutely refused to go in. And I ate up more than a few boards by trying to use the dang tapping block and ended up with the finish chipping off.


In the house I just moved out of, I ripped up aproximately 1400 sq. ft. of carpet (everything else was tiled) and replaced it all with the LL Nivarna V3 laminate in New Orleans Reclaimed Pine finish. When I was looking at laminates, here were my criteria:
Must look as close to real wood as possible. No 6" wide planks with three board patters on it that don't match up on the small ends like my Pergo did. It never looked right. It also should have a woodgrain texture.


Must go together firmly on all sides.


I wanted beveled/microbeveled edges, again so that it looked like wood.


Had to withstand water exposure, both drips and larger spills.


I didn't want to spend more than $2.50 per sq. ft.


I finally decided on the Armstrong Sqiftlock at $3.50 sq. ft. at Big Orange or Blue (can't remember which) because it was the only thing that looked good and met some of my criteria. Then I remembered that I had read about the Lumber Liquidators stuff when I was looking at purchasing/remodelling a student condo for a lease property last summer, and since they had opened a new location near me I wanted to check it out.


The Nirvana stuff is 3.5" wide/8mm deep with a pre-attached 3mm foam underlayment. It looks like single planks that come in 3 lengths per box with a wood image laminated on top with a wood texture over that. It locks together firmly on all four sides and takes a decent amount of abuse during cutting and installation. It also has microbeveled edges. But here's the two best parts: It's $1.99/sq. ft. (!) and it's extremely water resistant. How water resistant? Let's just say I left some excess cut pieces out on my patio table after my living room installation and they got rained on twice. That's rained on for a few days, left out in the sun to dry, rained on again for a day and then left to dry again. When I realized I had left some out there, I decided to grab the larger cuts and check their condition. The pieces all snapped together firmly and none of the boards showed any sign of warping or swelling when compared and snapped together with new boards removed from a box in the garage. That feature alone makes it one of the best laminates I've ever seen.

Here's a pic of the Nirvana V3 laminate installed in my old living room.


----------



## advertguy2

I wouldn't mix carpet "textures" (frieze, regular etc...). Also, I agree with ebr and think you should go for a darker carpet in the main area.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JosephShaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, If you've got a Lumber Liquidators near you, I would go look at their DreamHome Nirvana V3 Laminate before buying anything.
> 
> Here's a pic of the Nirvana V3 laminate installed in my old living room.



With kids and a bar, water or spills will be an issue. One of my pet peeves if the sound when walking with shoes, although thats only likely on occasion and not by me. What does it sound like?


We do have a LL in Marietta. Maybe I'll take a ride down on Saturday. Your floor looks good. How wide are those boards and what are the three lengths?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I'm a little nervous of mixing textures as well, but would like to keep it all black if possible. I'll have to look to see if there are other alternatives.


The good news is that the measurement won't cost anything, so if I decide to change my mind, thats done at least.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Bud, out of the two choices you have given, I like the "sanded silk".


I feel your pain










Ronnie


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With kids and a bar, water or spills will be an issue. One of my pet peeves if the sound when walking with shoes, although thats only likely on occasion and not by me. What does it sound like?



Pretty good, actually. It's hard to describe, but it sounds close to hardwoods when I walk on it. If you go to Lumber Liquidators they should have it laid out in an area for you to walk on. I've got one area in the formal dining room where there is a slight dip that I didn't find before the install. That area has a slight creek when you walk on it, but it's not very loud. I'm still tempted to bring up the floor and put some self levelling patch in so I won't have to worry about it. The rest of the foundation was pretty flat, thankfully. In my first house, we had a rock about the size of my fist in the foundation that was poking up, so I had to rent a grinder and wheel from Big Orange to smooth it down. That's so much more inconvenient than just applying a concrete patching compound.



> Quote:
> We do have a LL in Marietta. Maybe I'll take a ride down on Saturday. Your floor looks good. How wide are those boards and what are the three lengths?
> 
> 
> Bud



The boards are either 3" or 3.5" wide, and the three lengths are aproximately 16", 32", and 48" long. You get eight 48" boards, and sixteen each of the 16" and 32" boards. I'd have to check the package insert at home to make sure. I was doing 10'x10' rooms by myself in 7 hours, though I spent a lot of time walking to the mitre saw in the backyard to make my cuts. I finally realized it was faster to lay out the floor three or four rows at a time, then walk to the backyard to make the cuts and start three or four more new rows. With help it went much faster; I could be making the cuts and come back to find more rows laid out and ready to have the end pieces cut. My wife and I working together were able to do an 18x16 room in just under 10 hours, but it had a fireplace on a 45 degree wall with a rounded hearth that took a lot of time to cut for. Also, if the walls are pretty much in square, I would just lay out all the rows and not snap them together until had 15 or 20 rows laid out. I also would have kept the saw inside, but this stuff is as dusty as sawing MDF.


They should have sample pieces of all the colors available for the Nirvana V3. Ask to see a couple of each color, and make sure you get some male/female end pieces so you can see how they go together. The only thing my wife and I found is that the different colors don't go together well, but that seems to be intentional as they appear to be cut slightly different so you don't accidentally put in a row of the cherry with the mahogany, since they are close in color. We've purchased boards from different pallets in the same style and they've all gone together perfectly.


Joseph


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


I have a carpet that almost matches the "sanded silk" only maybe a little darker. It is also a frieze. IMO, it is not too dark and does an excellent job of hiding my kids "accidents". I ran it up onto the stage because I liked this more unified look. Good luck with your choice.


Scott


----------



## dropper

I think the silk is better as well.


As to the laminate flooring, it would be fine in the bar area, but not in the theater room. It will mess up the acoustics that you have deadened everywhere else. In one of my previous houses we went with Wilsonart, which really held up to the abuse, but the whole house became an echo chamber. That effect was minimized by area rugs, but when we moved and the house was empty, it was very noticeable, even in regular conversation.


I would just go with Scotchgard-ed carpet.


Ketih


----------



## chinadog

Dropper,


The carpet would be in the theater room and on the stage, the laminate in the concession area would be closed off by a door. I'm probably tile inside the bar area.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> IMO, it is not too dark and does an excellent job of hiding my kids "accidents". I ran it up onto the stage because I liked this more unified look. Good luck with your choice.
> 
> 
> Scott



Confused.







Not too dark for a HT room, or not dark enough?


The other option is to stain the fronts of the steps for the stage, although I'd have to put something stainable on them, but that would be easy.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Joe,


Thanks for the response and answers.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, out of the two choices you have given, I like the "sanded silk".
> 
> 
> I feel your pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Just as easy of GOM choices, huh?


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Sorry, not too dark for the HT. I have successfully avoided the cave feeling.


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud, while the carpet is on the lighter side, if it's what you want, get it. I think it looks fine. Avoiding the bat cave is certainly understandable


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, while the carpet is on the lighter side, if it's what you want, get it. I think it looks fine. Avoiding the bat cave is certainly understandable



Peer pressure! Peer pressure!










I know, I just value other opinions to confirm my decisions!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Went back to HD today for the cabinets. First, my design for the bar had been purged. Apparently it was in the system too long. Had to do the whole thing over again. I was there for like three hours. I like the new design, but man, its more than I want to spend on cabinets. Its a tough call. Would love to build them myself, just afraid they wouldn't come out as nice and it would take too long. Anyone know where you can get prefab unfinished cabinets in Atlanta?


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Bud, you asked me to let you know how the quality was on the USA Electric stuff.


On the baffles for recessed lighting: I just received my 42 pound order today. I really like the quality - especially in the 5 inch cans. Those are full aluminum baffels. The 6 inch standard are alum on the inside and plastic trims (expected). Bulbs are very reasonable (priced) and are looking good. I'll post pics eventually when they are installed.


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Stained my other three door jambs today and a second coat on the last 8 pieces of casing. Tomorrow I'll poly the four jambs, the casing and maybe even install the casing with the stuff that's already done.


Slow going, but If I can do some base molding during the week, that'll help and maybe get that all installed next weekend. I'll stain the doors last, one at a time.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, you asked me to let you know how the quality was on the USA Electric stuff.
> 
> 
> On the baffles for recessed lighting: I just received my 42 pound order today. I really like the quality - especially in the 5 inch cans. Those are full aluminum baffels. The 6 inch standard are alum on the inside and plastic trims (expected). Bulbs are very reasonable (priced) and are looking good. I'll post pics eventually when they are installed.
> 
> 
> Gary



Great. What did the bulbs run you?


Bud


----------



## garykagan

$2.89 a piece!


----------



## larryep

i am in the same boat as well when it comes to cabinets. they also had to do the cabinets over since i did it back in aug of 05. I also do not want to pay so much for cabinets but my tastes is pointing torwards maple and cherry wood . I would love to find a reasonable cabinet unfinished in maple or cherry with door style i like but very hard to find. I really don't want to wait 4 to 6 weeks either. I am real tempted to just buy the stock maples at lowes.


----------



## drizznay

Bud,


Just finally finished reading your thread and it is fantastic! I have been reading it at work, er during my "free time" at home, yea thats it. I get motivated to get started on my HT every time I read your or sandman's threads. Of course I need to get out of my townhome and get a house first lol.


BTW I really like the sanded silk for your carpet and I can't wait to see the finished product.



Andre'


----------



## r00ster

Bud, I had been meaning to ask you...what type/size of inline duct fan did you use for your projector exhaust? Did you use one of the suncourt inline duct fans from HD? I am assuming you used a 6" inline fan though? Also how far away is the inline fan from the exhaust entry above the PJ? I jut bought 3 of the suncourt inline fans from HD and wanted to try them out. Not sure what peoples experience is with these....or if there are better options. Also do you have a model number or sku for the attic fan thermometer you used?


Thanks


Drew


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


I think I might try and do cabinets on my own... kinda like BuffBaker did. I'm sure you've seen his thread. It doesn't seem to difficult..... and it's something I'll just do once I have the HT done, and drywall/carpet/molding in the rest of the basement.


If you can take the time to do it, might be worth thinking about.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drizznay* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Just finally finished reading your thread and it is fantastic! I have been reading it at work, er during my "free time" at home, yea thats it. I get motivated to get started on my HT every time I read your or sandman's threads. Of course I need to get out of my townhome and get a house first lol.
> 
> 
> BTW I really like the sanded silk for your carpet and I can't wait to see the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> Andre'



Thanks for the vote. Almost there. One more final push.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


I used a four inch in-line fan from HD. I believe its a suncourt, as you mentioned. The ductwork runs probably 40 feet into my workshop. Seems to be sufficient for what I intended it for, although I don't have the box completely done at this point, so we'll see. Also, I still plan on plenty of ventilation. I expect if I really closed up the box, a 6 inch fan probably would be safer.


I don't have a part number for the thermostat, its an attic fan thermostat found with the attic fans (not in the HVAC area). About 16 bucks I think.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I think I might try and do cabinets on my own... kinda like BuffBaker did. I'm sure you've seen his thread. It doesn't seem to difficult..... and it's something I'll just do once I have the HT done, and drywall/carpet/molding in the rest of the basement.
> 
> 
> If you can take the time to do it, might be worth thinking about.



Larry and Jerrod,


Tough call on the cabinets for me. I want to get it all done by the end of May, the kids will be home for the summer and I expect they'll spent a lot of time in the basement since my office is on the main floor. I'm tempted to do a 12 month no payments/interest with HD just to get it done and that ends this week. I expect it'll look great (what I designed) and it'll be done quicker, just more expensive.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry and Jerrod,
> 
> 
> Tough call on the cabinets for me. I want to get it all done by the end of May, the kids will be home for the summer and I expect they'll spent a lot of time in the basement since my office is on the main floor. I'm tempted to do a 12 month no payments/interest with HD just to get it done and that ends this week. I expect it'll look great (what I designed) and it'll be done quicker, just more expensive.
> 
> 
> Bud



No payments/no financing is a wonderful thing!


----------



## chinadog

On the carpet situation...


I did some prelim testing of the larger sample over the weekend. Here are my thoughts and conclusions on the subject.


I first put the large sanded silk sample on the top portion of the stage. It is noticeable, but I knew it was there, so I was looking for it. When I put it in front of the stage, not really an issue for me. I think this is because the screen is high enough that its below the line of sight. I was sitting on the riser as well, so I expect it'll be even better sitting in the front row.


Based on the testing, I'm thinking I either need to do the black on the stage completely OR veneer the front of the stage and stain to match the trim. I could then do the top in black carpet. I'm not sure how easy that would be for a carpet installer to do. The measurement guy comes today, so I guess I'll ask. Thoughts on this approach?


Bud


----------



## ebr

I plan to do the stained wood risers on my stage. I think it will look very sharp.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Did you decide on a texture for the black carpet on the stage?! Are you going to try and do a fieza on both the main floor and the stage, or a straight pile?!


Sean


----------



## garykagan

Do you have examples to look at for the full black on the stage front vs. the wood? I have seen plenty of theaters with the round face of the stage front carpeted and it looks great, haven't seen one with just wood stain there. I'm sure that would look like a curved continuation of the base molding and would be very nice.


gk


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response and answers.
> 
> 
> Bud



No problem. Thanks for the great thread. I'm about to embark on my first theater, so I'm just happy I can give back some practical information. I found one of the box inserts, and the floor data is as follows:


8 planks - 47.5" x 3.5" x 7/16" (11mm)

16 planks - 31.75" x 3.5" x 7/16" (11mm)

16 planks - 15.875" x 3.5" x 7/16" (11mm)

-- Total sq. ft.: 28.04 sq. ft. per box @ 46.25 lbs.


Their t-molding is ~$7 per 94" piece with mounting track, and my local big blue has 12' of 1/2"x3/4" shoe molding for $3.84.


Joseph


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Did you decide on a texture for the black carpet on the stage?! Are you going to try and do a fieza on both the main floor and the stage, or a straight pile?!
> 
> 
> Sean



The only black carpet I saw was the standard cut. not sure if there is black frieze or even if it would look right if there was.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Gary and ebr,


No pictures off hand. I think Ruben has this rendered, but not sure on the actual photos.


I was thinking about this at some other point, but was concerned about the reflection from the poly, but don't see that as a problem now, based on what I'm using, I think it'll be fine. I used 2x8s, so I'd have to get some yellow ping and just rip a very narrow piece for both the stage and riser, stain it and attach it. My only concern is how they would wrap the carpet on the lip. I assume the would just staple it, but the rounded step is not very high and getting the tool in there may be an issue. They'll have this problem anyway, whether I go with wood or not though, I think.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Joseph,


Thanks for the info. That helps.


Bud


----------



## texas-avfreak

Bud,


As far as the cabinets go, I was thinking of doing them myself, I even have three books on doing just that. "I don't need them anymore if someone is looking







" and I decided to go with the unfinished oak cabinets I found at Lowes.


You have to ask for them, they are in the back of the store by the premade laminate tops, but they are a little cheaper than the stock cabinets and they have them in all sizes.


I think a 60 sink base was $107, not bad eh?


Take a look if you have a Lowes as this might be your best bet, keep in mind oak is hard to get an even stain on, but easy to paint, which is what I am doing.


Good Luck and I love your theater!


----------



## chinadog

Texas,


Thanks. Good find. I assume its just the fronts/doors only that were oak, correct?


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *texas-avfreak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Take a look if you have a Lowes as this might be your best bet, keep in mind oak is hard to get an even stain on, but easy to paint, which is what I am doing.




I am not an expert, but everything that I have read indicates that oak is one of the easiest woods to stain because it is very hard and dense. It should stain very evenly. I had no issues at all getting even staining on oak. Normally its your soft woods like pine or aspen that are hard to stain evenly and require a pre-stain conditioner.


Im curious as to why you would spend the money on oak if you were going to paint it. I would think there would be cheaper cabinet materials for painting.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Still need to build the front panel, but I'm pretty close to wrapping up the projector box. A few things here. I originally opened up the bottom of the box to allow for access. I was going to build a panel, but decided since the slides worked so well, that I didn't need another panel. Looks a lot cleaner as well. I left the opening, so it'll allow some airflow from the bottom as well as the back. I also looked at Tim's idea about using a painted return vent cover for the back for access and intake, but I couldn't find one the right size. I ended up going with my original idea, using a Middle Atlantic 2 space vent cover.


I'm very happy with the way its worked out so far.



























Bud


----------



## mastiff34

Very nice, looking good bud!


----------



## jandawil

That sliding rig is one of the cleverest things I have seen in these forums. Brilliant!!!! Looks great. I'll bet it feels great to almost be done with this thing. All that hard work will pay off for years to come. Enjoy......


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. Very clean. Cant wait to see the finished product.


Ronnie


----------



## ronnie_jackson

BTW, did you ever get a chance to try out those fabricated T-Hangers?


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


Nope! Cotton is still in the bags in the other room. I think they'll work, but I'm running around trying to get these little things done. I think I'm just going to put the cotton across the corners and use the T pins right in the drywall to hold them on the sides. I think it'll hold and its just a simple solution.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

mastiff34 and Jon,


Thanks. Getting there. Thought I'd be done by now!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Sliding hushbox looks great - may borrow the idea if my projector ends up being too noisy.....not too concerned on aesthetics as I'm leaning towards the IN Big 76


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## lateforwork

very cool... I love the vintage sign.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, did you ever get a chance to try out those fabricated T-Hangers?
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Well, you made me feel guilty... so I went down and cut a piece of cotton 45 inches, which was the room I had above my right channel. My wall is only like 14 inches deep, so I put the piece as far forward as possible and had some excess on the back wall. Used about three T pins on each side. The hard part was getting it through the cotton. You have to hold it from the back and force it through, the edges are not real sharp. Once I got it through, I pushed it through the Linacoustic and into the drywall. Worked like a charm.


BTW, I just used a razor knife to cut it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sliding hushbox looks great - may borrow the idea if my projector ends up being too noisy.....not too concerned on aesthetics as I'm leaning towards the IN Big 76
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Steal away. It blends in really well now with the ceiling, especially in the premovie lighting. Just need to get the front done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lateforwork* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> very cool... I love the vintage sign.



Ebay find from a store called "The Old Sign Shop". His ebay ID is the same ""theoldsignshop".


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, you made me feel guilty... so I went down and cut a piece of cotton 45 inches, which was the room I had above my right channel. My wall is only like 14 inches deep, so I put the piece as far forward as possible and had some excess on the back wall. Used about three T pins on each side. The hard part was getting it through the cotton. You have to hold it from the back and force it through, the edges are not real sharp. Once I go it through, I pushed it through the Linacoustic and into the drywall. Worked like a charm.
> 
> 
> BTW, I just used a razor knife to cut it.
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL, your to much Bud..... You didnt have to do all that. I would have waited.


Sounds great. I will probably do the same.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL, your to much Bud..... You didnt have to do all that. I would have waited.
> 
> 
> Sounds great. I will probably do the same.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Not a problem. Now I've got something else I've started that I've got to finish!


Bud


----------



## Chiahead

Wow Bud, great job. I would love to do this in a few years with a new house.


I have a queation about finishing your drywall and ceilings. Were you going to texture them? I realize that it isn't needed in the HT, cause it is covered with GOM, but what about the HT ceiling, and the walls and ceiling in the rest of the basement?


Or is the rest of your house not textured either (figured they might build differently in the south).


Again, the theater is really looking nice, and I think your crown trim in there will really add something.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Chiahead,


Thanks. No plans for texturing. The rest of the house has flat ceilings, so I'll end up doing the same to match.


Almost done with staining the base molding. I have two coats now, may go one more coat. The base molding is pretty grainy, so the darker probably the better. I'm hoping my crown isn't as grainy as well. I think the crown will make a huge difference.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Looking good Bud!


The little things seem to take so long to take care of don't they?


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Yes, absolutely. I usually find myself doing proof of concept or idea work. I get to a point where I'm like "OK, that works, the rest is easy","that's not hard to do at all","tough parts over, I'll finish the rest later" or "this is boring, I'll take care of this later".


80% rule anyone?


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Bud,

If I could get 80% I'd be golden


----------



## BuffBakerGA

Isn't staining fun?







I had to catch up on my Bud construction... What's this? Light tape? http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photo...00_0731-vi.jpg 


I finally finished my bar cabinets doors @ 2am last night...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BuffBakerGA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Isn't staining fun?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to catch up on my Bud construction... What's this? Light tape? http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photo...00_0731-vi.jpg
> 
> 
> Mr. Baker!
> 
> 
> I finally finished my bar cabinets doors @ 2am last night...



No, its not... Takes forever, but definately a nice result! Finished, huh? Was that the last of the work in the basement?


It's just a frosted rope light, looks a little yellow in these pictures, but isn't really. Still thinking of some light tape in the bar area, either under the bar itself as a downlight and/or using it to highlight shelves and bottles.... when I get there!


BTW, that shot is the for the trap door I made to get to the IR receiver built into the cover (and covered with GOM).


Bud


----------



## JosephShaw

Bud, that sliding hush box is awesome. I like it.


To follow up on the floor sound, it sounds just like walking on tile with my running shoes on. With dress shoes, it sounds a lot more wooden. The only place where it sounds different is where I didn't fill the dip in the floor (didn't find it in my check before installing) and it creaks when you walk over it.


I'm finally done painting about 300 ft. of shoebase molding for those floors and got one roomed cut and laid out. Hopefully today I'll finish it all the rooms and finally be done.


Joseph


----------



## chinadog

Joe,


Thanks and thanks for the info. Can relate to the molding, I'll still have to do all that as well in the near future.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Spent about two hours yesterday working on trim. All the door jambs are now done and all the casing has been installed. I had to extend the the jambs for the two doors in the HT room due to the furring strips. The doors I ordered from HD originally could not be made with the correct jamb width. I just ripped some matching yellow pain and stained it, polyed and installed it. Looks good. I also installed all the base molding in the room. I'm waiting for the bullnose piece for the riser to dry (just put on the last coat of poly this morning) and I'll install that and the base in the concession room. I have a few lengths of crown to purchase today and need to stain them and the doors still. Pictures to come.


I may install the rack tomorrow and trim it out. I have stained casing for it, but am thinking about using a flat black on the casing. Between all the doors and trim in there, it may be a nice contrast.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some trim shots to give you an idea how things are looking.


From the concession area looking out to the HT room and the equipment closet:










Looking into the concession area (storage room in back):










HT entrance on left, concession on right:










HT entrance and riser:










Riser with bullnosed edge (ala BuffBakerGA.. thanks Jeff!)










Blurry shot of where the bullnose and the base molding meet. I lucked out on the position of the step lights. Any lower and I would have had to trim the molding.










Bud


----------



## ebr

Lookin' real nice, Bud.


----------



## sdspga

Trim really looks good with the walls. Nice job!


----------



## larryep

bud

I am not a big fan of wood stain an the natural grain of the wood, but that trim looks real good!!


Larry


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. The stain really adds to the look. I really didn't want to go white like the rest of the house and basement. I'm going to start staining the crown molding and will do the doors last.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Nice job Bud! Love that look!


----------



## mastiff34

Very nice work bud, its looking good.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


I've got all my crown stained and I just need to poly it in the morning and let it dry. Hopefully I'll have all the crown down tomorrow as well.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

I was wondering what your secret is to getting the floor so clean after drywall. I'm just finishing up drywall (whole basement), trying to get the place cleaned up again, and I'm starting to think the floor will _never_ get clean. What's the trick? It certainly doesn't seem to be a broom...


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Actually, it is, at least partially. I swept a lot, you have to, but the broom I had was a stiff bristle brush. I had a dustpan that had this soften nylon brush and it really helped with the drywall dust. One day I decided to go look at new brooms and discover a large broom with blue nylon bristles, so I bought it and it worked great. For mud that dried on the floor, I has one of the ice scrapers/edgers with a long handle. I also used a a mud knife top scrap up the floor before the mud completely hardened.


Also, since the floor has an epoxy paint on it (done when the house was built), I think that helps keep the dust from getting in the texture of the concrete, at least not as bad.


In the HT room when I did the GOM, I put the craft paper down. The rolls are like 48 inches wide and are really cheap. You can find it in the paint section at Home Depot. I put it on a piece of plywood I was using in the gameroom as a workbench when I stained and even after all the prestain, stain, poly and paint it never really soaked through. It's a cheap solution if you want to cover the floor.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some crown shots from today. I have one small section to do, I miscalculated and left myself a few inches short. The problem with that is I now have to go to home depot, but a piece, prestain, stain and poly. Man, a paint in the butt. I also started staining the doors today. I did not trim out the rack yet. I think I need one more piece of casing if I go with black. I do have the stained casing done if I were to use it. Since it's polyed, the paint doesn't take well if I paint it. Guess I could sand it down though. Also, I need to get the floring in prior to installing the rack, otherwise it may be a little difficult.


The crown pretty much disappears during a movie. It's dark enough and with a satin finish, it worked out well as far as reflections.


























Concession area:


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Another thing... I may have to get used to the crown in the HT room. Another option is to do the crown in the room a flat black. I'll give it a little time and see what happens. I like he crown, its just a little weird for me now to have the different color running across the top of the screen wall.


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

Bud,


You could also eliminate the crown on the screen wall as do a nice 90 degree termination just before the side walls hit the front wall. This would also solve you "needing a new piece of crown" proble where you cut it short.


Either way, the room is looking awesome, you did a very nice job with the molding - looks professional to me.


keep up the good work


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud, looks good. Did you cope your inside corners...?


----------



## reaper

Oooh mama... looking fine. Sorry if this ? has been asked before... but are you going to have a door up there to the left of the screen that is shiny stained wood? Are you worried about reflections? Visual... not audible...


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys, thanks.


j-dubb, need something there to hide the seam of the GOM. Black crown is not a bad option since it'll blend so well with the whole soffit. Not sure yet, getting used to the stained crown.


ebr,


No, I didn't really have to. The corners matched up pretty well. What I did was to use a test piece and make sure I have the correct angle before cutting the actual piece. After I cut it, I stain the cut to make sure it's pretty hidden. I had one corner in the back where I actually have to pull the piece off and recut it because the corner was like 92 degrees, so I recut it using two 46 degree cuts, then married them before putting in the brads to secure them permanently. Getting good at it after all the crown I've done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Reaper,


Actually, it was a concern, but not so much now. The stain with the satin is pretty dark with not much of a reflection at least from the corwn and jamb. The framing is 2x6, plus the 1 inch of furring and the door itself opens into the concession area. I guess what I'm trying to say is the door is set back pretty far. I don't see much reflection now from the jamb itself and I'm expecting it not to be a big deal. I'll let you know in about a week or so when I get the doors done. Got my fingers crossed!


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Looks like you had a productive weekend also Bud. The crown looks very nice.


Im with you on the crown piece that runs across the screenwall. Not to sure about that one piece. Maybe paint it black so it blends in with the rest of the front. I would leave the rest like it is. It looks awsome and ties into the rest of your trim.


Test it out in photoshop.


Keep up the good work.


Ronnie


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - I agree the crown looks great with exception of the screen wall......either paint black or remove and terminate at the edges.


How are you liking the Insteons - are they working well for your set up?


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## mastiff34

Looking good bud, keep going, your almost there.


Love the woodwork, coming together nicely.


Are you giving tours yet?


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I miscalculated and left myself a few inches short. The problem with that is I now have to go to home depot, but a piece, prestain, stain and poly. Man, a *paint* in the butt.
> 
> Bud



Bud, did you mean to say that?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, did you mean to say that?



Scott,


Subliminally, I suppose! Should have said "paintbrush" in the butt!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I agree the crown looks great with exception of the screen wall......either paint black or remove and terminate at the edges.
> 
> 
> How are you liking the Insteons - are they working well for your set up?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



I think I have an idea that I can get the desired look if I decide to change it out. I can just end it at a 90 angle like j-dubb mentioned and give it a cleaner look. I'm going to give it a little time and see if I get used to it. It shows up more since I used a flash on the picture and like I said, it pretty much disappears in the dark.


I've got some other stuff to finish up and maybe I'll go back and redo it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastiff34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking good bud, keep going, your almost there.
> 
> 
> Love the woodwork, coming together nicely.
> 
> 
> Are you giving tours yet?



Thanks! Anyone in the ATL area that wants to come by, just let me know!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

I travel down to Atlanta to the Vinings area - You anywhere near there?


You will soon be - but ya better stick with us that are still in progess in the forum as we need ya tips


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I'm actually about 25 miles north up 75 from there. In Acworth, which is just north of Marietta and Kennesaw.

http://images9.fotki.com/v174/photos...etromap-vi.gif 


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

Bud,


I come to Atlant often, I might take you up on that to see how you did the finer details. It all looks professional done and I think that is all of us DIYer's goal


What is the ETA of opening night?


----------



## BritInVA

Looks like I needs to find a reason to visit our offices in Atlanta then










I'll let you know when I'm next down - give me a chance to listen to the Ascends.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Guys, just let me know. I'm pretty much always here except for Home Depot excursions and a few baseball games with my sone, but the season ends this week. Just give me some advance notice.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J-dubb16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I come to Atlant often, I might take you up on that to see how you did the finer details. It all looks professional done and I think that is all of us DIYer's goal
> 
> 
> What is the ETA of opening night?



I should have it all done by Memorial weekend (meaning HT room, bathroom, gameroom, etc). I may not have cabinets it though for the bar and concession area, but all the flooring should be in as well.


Seating ... need to order pretty soon. Would like to get it it ordered this week and I'd still have an outside chance by the end of the month, not sure.


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

Bud,


On the seating, I know you were questioning between the 090s and 088s. Double check dimension before you order. I had planned a 4 seat arch config of 090s for my front row. I based this off the dimensions given on the Berkline website and cut sheets for that exact config. Well this weekend I was at the store where I am getting them from and the new display was exactly what I am ordering. Well, it is 7 inches longer than what Berkline had noted. I will actually have to change my front row config to make it work now.


Double check you dims and measure it at the store if they have your config. there.


----------



## chinadog

OH SNAP!


Wow! It was that much of a difference? Things will be tight already, if I end up with an unexpected 7 inches, that's a real problem.


Bud


----------



## J-dubb16

That was just my set-up. I measured another one while I was there and it matched the online measurement. I was able to make it work for me by making the two middle seats in the arch config a loveseat like the back row, but it was not my first choice.


When you order, maybe you can get verbal confirmation of the configuration size to compare to your room.


I think Berkline messed up on their info and forgot to add an armrest width online and in their cut sheet.


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OH SNAP!
> 
> 
> if I end up with an unexpected 7 inches, that's a real problem.
> 
> 
> Bud




LOL............. Never heard that complaint before













Sorry Bud, couldnt resist.



Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How are you liking the Insteons - are they working well for your set up?



Mark,


My switches are X10, not Insteon. Works well with my setup now that I figured out how to control everything with the H880.


Bud


----------



## revans35

Bud,


What wood species and stain, poly combination did you use on your doors, and trim?


Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Ryan,


I bought yellow pine trim because the doors were yellow pine. I wanted it all to match. I found the only really grainy trim was the base molding. The doors are also a little grainy. The trim is the water based Minwax Rosewood. You need to use the prestain (for water based stain) as well. The poly is Minwax Satin.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just hung the equipment closet door. The hard part is the wait between all the coats. I did this one first to experiment a little. I was afraid that with such a large surface that it would be hard to get an even stain. Turned out pretty well. I even like the ebay door knob!











Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Looks great Bud. I am actually here in Atlanta today, next conference I go to I'll have to make time to get out to see your place (& DE's showroom). Nice weather here, I must say.


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I think your new nickname should be "StainMaster". Those doors and trim look excellent. I know pictures dont really do them justice.


Can you imagine what it would have cost you to hire that out? And it probably wouldnt have turned out as nice either.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great Bud. I am actually here in Atlanta today, next conference I go to I'll have to make time to get out to see your place (& DE's showroom). Nice weather here, I must say.



Dave,


Absolutely, plan on it next time. I grew up in CT and have a sister in Bellingham, MA. I'll take this weather over yours anytime.... except maybe tornado season....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think your new nickname should be "StainMaster". Those doors and trim look excellent. I know pictures dont really do them justice.
> 
> 
> Can you imagine what it would have cost you to hire that out? And it probably wouldnt have turned out as nice either.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Thanks Ronnie. I know how long its taken, so I expect it would cost a few bucks, but no idea how much more. Well worth the effort.


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Der StainMeister!

If the pics look this good, the real thing must be very nice.

People will be wowed by your theater but they'll probably remark

most about the woodwork.

As always, nicely done.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Milt.


I started door number two tonight. Working on the HT entrance door. Was watching The Longest Yard, would pause it, go stain, watch some more, pause it, go stain. Just finished the first coat.


I tell ya, the trim used like hardly any stain. I'm going through a lot with the doors though. Need another quart probably tomorrow to finish the rest of the doors. Also, I think I've gone through more rubber gloves than a proctologist! Well .... maybe not.










Bud


----------



## miltimj

Hi Bud,


Looking great! Especially the woodwork, and it's nice to see the colors in full-size view.


A question about your bullnose riser edge.. Is that the same height as the plywood on the riser? How will that effect the carpet and pad once they're installed? BuffBaker's is just barely taller it seems (installed), but yours seems flush prior to the carpet being installed.


I agree with others that I'd chop the trim off at the sidewalls and make a 90 degree angle.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Tim,


Its a 3 1/2 inch bullnose (they have a 5 1/2 inch version as well) and looks like this. This is the 5 1/2 inch version.











The widest part is 1 1/16" and it overlaps the riser in the front. The carpet and part will bring it about even. It's typically used to build a staircase.

Here's the place I got it, they have some good profiles for other types of moldings as well.

http://www.mouldingsunlimited.com/flooring.htm 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

HT entrance door installed this evening. Plan on starting the door to the concession area firs thing in the AM and hopefully will finish by Thursday. I should have the doors wrapped up before the weekend. Will post a picture in the AM.


The Stain Meister/Master is gettin' in a grove!


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud, Everything is looking great. Keep up the good work. When do you start programming some automation with the Omni Pro II?


Dave


----------



## chinadog

Hey Dave, thanks. I'm not going to use the Omni for the theater. I probably could, but decided to go with the PowerLinc, which I'll have in my equipment closet and will be on the same circuit as the dimmers. I've go that already setup, just need to fine tune some timings and light levels. Works great.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the home theater door I hung last night.



















Notice the floor.. that's where I dropped the can of stain a few weeks ago!










Bud


----------



## Snakeyez

Hey BUd the stain is suppose to go on the door not the floor. Nice looking doors.



Craig,


----------



## jerrodshook

You missed a spot









just kidding! Looks great! I assume you posted the brand of stain and all. I just can't remember so I'll read back a few pages and find it. But, since I've mentioned this I know you'll post it again. Any special method? Brush? Rag?


I can't believe, but it's feasible I could start doing trim and buy my doors in the next week or two..... unfortunately for the rest of the basment and not the HT cuz I'm slow.


----------



## chinadog

Snake,


Thanks. I'm just glad it didn't end up on the fabric. Man, what a mess.


Jerrod,


I saw that spot on the picture, but believe me, its not there.


I used a Minwax water based stain called Rosewood. Very easy to clean up, not a lot of smell, dries quick.


I'm no woodworker, but here are a few tips. Some ebr and Ronnie mentioned before, I believe.


1. Softer woods tend to splotch. Not sure if thats actually a word, but should be if its not. You need to use a prestain. There is a water based prestain that I used by Minwax, since I'm using yellow pine.


2. Don't leave the stain on for more than a few minutes. If working trim, do the piece quickly and wipe it off with a rag. I used a brush, it holds more stain. Stain the piece and just wipe it off quickly. When doing doors, I did half the door, wiped it down with a rag quickly to get most of the stain off, then used a stain pad to pick up the excess that the rag left. This worked well because it removed the swirls and mark left by the rag. Need to do it quickly.


3. I would prestain both sides of the door while it laid on a table (plywood and sawhorses). I hace some strips of wood underneath to raise it off the plywood. Once the prestain was dry, I stained one side and the visible side edges and let it dry. Flipped it, then did the top surface. Once that's dry, I left the door as is, did the second coat and the edges again. Let it dry, then flip again for the second coat on the back. Same thing for poly. Do the two coats, then flip and do the other two coats. Easier than always flipping the door over. Depending on the size of the door, then can get heavy and awkward to move.


4. When staining or polying on the edges of the door, make sure you address the drips on the underneath side. After staining and applying the poly, I flipped my first door and had some dried poly that I had to sand off and restain before I could go further.


5. Get a box of clean rags from the paint section of HD. I'm on my second box of rags (70 in a box for about 12.00). I went through a bunch. Once they get saturated, unless you're using them to actually stain, get a new one. Same with the pads. I used one pad per door. Also in the paint/stain section of HD.


6. Use the matching stain color nail fillers. Use it after you've installed the finished/stained trim. Easier to deal with.


7. Figure out how trim you need and give yourself a little extra. Staining takes too long, so don't stain what you don't think you'll need.


8. Wear non-powdered rubber gloves. Took a while to get the stain off my hands initially. I reused many until the fingers wore through.


9. Make sure you use a tack cloth to pick up anything on the door before you poly, otherwise you get little bits of stuff under your finish. Also found at HD.


10. I marked my hinges when I took them off to ensure I put them back in the right spot. I used a sharpie on the back of the hinge. Not sure it makes a huge difference, but I found that some hinges were cut a slightly different and had a hard time getting the door back on the hinge when reinstalling.


11. Expect to take longer than you think for getting it done, since you have at least 5 coats plus dry time (1 prestain, 2 stain, 2 poly). Dry and do an bunch of pieces at once when you start prestain or stain, etc, this way you have less cleanup.


12. Get the right type of brush. The water based stains used a nylon or synthetic brush. I believe oil based stains use a natural bristle brush (HD guy said this, but think I read it on the Minwax site or on the back of the can).


13. Go in the direction of the grain!


That's it for now. Hope that helped.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

You missed one Bud


14. Drink plenty of coors light.



Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Coors light? For a guy named Bud?


Actually, I stick to those heavy German beers, supplemented with a few Guinness of course.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hope you guys are enjoying these exciting door pictures!


My door to the concession area is now complete and installed. Here are a few shots. I did some preliminary testing on reflection (video, not audio) to see if there was any distraction and it was minimal from the opposite side wall. I was looking for it as well. I think it'll be fine. Even with the flash on in the first picture, you can see minimal reflections.



















You can really see how thick the jamb is in this shot after extending it to support the furring for the GOM.










Weird thing here. On the back of the door, it rippled. I thought about sanding it down, but wasn't sure what caused it and what was behind it, so I just left it. Its on the concession area side and the door open into that room, so no big deal really. You really have to look for it to see it (and be int he concession area with the door closed). In the second picture, its between the top and middle panels on the right. You need to look pretty close to see it.










One more door to go!


Bud


----------



## ifeliciano

Bud,


Are the doors solid yellow pine or are they some kind of composite wood material with a yellow pine veneer ? The bulges in the door look like veneer coming unglued due to moisture absorbtion. Based on your description of the waterbased stain you used, I think maybe you recoated with stain before the prior stain coat dried throughly.


Using a needle, make a tiny hole on one side of the bulge. With a syringe full of wood glue, poke a small hole on the oposite side of the first hole and squeeze some glue into the bulges. Using cowls and a clamp, slowly apply pressure to the bulges and glue the veneer back to the substrate material. MAke sure you clean the excess glue with a damp cloth (not wet). Let it set for 24 - 48 hours before refinishing.


Ivan


----------



## ifeliciano




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Coors light? For a guy named Bud?
> 
> 
> Actually, I stick to those heavy German beers, supplemented with a few Guinness of course.
> 
> 
> Bud




Good man !! Nothing like a Franziskaner after a day of staining.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ifeliciano* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Are the doors solid yellow pine or are they some kind of composite wood material with a yellow pine veneer ? The bulges in the door look like veneer coming unglued due to moisture absorbtion. Based on your description of the waterbased stain you used, I think maybe you recoated with stain before the prior stain coat dried throughly.
> 
> 
> Using a needle, make a tiny hole on one side of the bulge. With a syringe full of wood glue, poke a small hole on the oposite side of the first hole and squeeze some glue into the bulges. Using cowls and a clamp, slowly apply pressure to the bulges and glue the veneer back to the substrate material. MAke sure you clean the excess glue with a damp cloth (not wet). Let it set for 24 - 48 hours before refinishing.
> 
> 
> Ivan



Thanks Ivan!


They're suppose to be solid pine, not veneered. Pretty sure at least. Should be for 200.00 a door. It's possible, but I thought I let it dry completely. I think they recommend between 15-30 minutes wait time before sanding any raised grain. It showed up with the first coat of stain. It's not nearly as big as the picture makes it look and I've got two coats of poly on now, so not sure I'll go back. BUT, I may try it in the last door if if the problem comes up.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ivan, double checked, definitely not veneer. Not sure if I left too much prestain on in that spot and maybe there is a hole behind it (termites!). Who knows. I can live with it.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Looking good and I think you might beat me to the finish line.


On that door I think it was a hidden defect that only became apparent as a result of the change in temp/humidity in your location and/or finishing process caused the one area to swell. I think I would take that picture to the store manager and see if they stand behind their product.


At $200 a door it should survive the finishing process intact. They may give you a replacement. Then you don't have to "live with it".


----------



## ifeliciano




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ivan, doubled checked, definitely not veneer. Not sure if I left too much prestain on in that spot and maybe there is a hole behind it (termites!). Who knows. I can live with it.
> 
> 
> Bud



Cool ! By the way great job on the staining







It is possible there is a defect on the door. The only reason I assumed veneer was the bubble look of the bulge, and I've never seen solid wood bubble up










Oh well, the doors look awsome...


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. I should have the last one done tomorrow. I have to pick up one more quart of stain.


Good idea Big, I'll have to print it off and check with the gu tomorrow when I go to get the stain.


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ifeliciano* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good man !! Nothing like a Franziskaner after a day of staining.




Ah now that's a beer!!














Had my first one several years ago and have been hooked. It was also my first hefeweizen. Have not found one better.


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Some questions on your Sonance install


1 - Where they installed in a double layer of drywall and did you have any issues with the clamps?


2 - Did you make a back box (if No ignore the following q's)


3 - What was the volume?


4 - Any treatment within the box (insulation, cotton wadding?)


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


The boxes are available for purchase or you can build them out of MDF. I'll try and find the info for you. I didn't use the boxes, thought about it, but considering isolation was not a real concern in my setup, I didn't go through the same process. I didn't double drywall either.


BUT, I will add though that the clamps won't be an issue. Because I was going to use Linacoustic under the soffits, I wanted to ensure that the speakers were at the same depth, so I pulled down that section of drywall between the studs and used two half inch pieces of drywall to build it out. There's plenty of room for the clamps, I would expect you have 4-5 inches of depth for the clamps.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

You're HT continues to inspire me. You're doing amazing work. Couple of quick questions:

1. You talked about getting the Pioneer VX2600, how do you like it?

2. Are you still very happy with the Ascend SE340's?

3. How is your sound isolation considering you didn't use DD or GG?

4. I know you stated somewhere already, but which sub did you go with and are you pleased with that also?


I've been following multiple construction threads and your equipment choices seem to be very popular, so I'm considering several of them.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> You're HT continues to inspire me. You're doing amazing work. Couple of quick questions:
> 
> 1. You talked about getting the Pioneer VX2600, how do you like it?
> 
> 2. Are you still very happy with the Ascend SE340's?
> 
> 3. How is your sound isolation considering you didn't use DD or GG?
> 
> 4. I know you stated somewhere already, but which sub did you go with and are you pleased with that also?
> 
> 
> I've been following multiple construction threads and your equipment choices seem to be very popular, so I'm considering several of them.



Thanks. Glad someone else enjoys it besides me!


1. It's a Yamaha RXV-2600. I really enjoy it. I think its a great receiver, once I got everything setup correctly. I think some of first ones that rolled out had a few manufacturing problems (heat issues), but haven't really heard of anything recently. I've had it for about 5 months I think. The HDMI switching is a nice feature. There is a discussion on it here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=601996 


2. Love the Ascends. I'd buy them again in a heartbeat. Great speakers for the money, which is why they're backordered now. That apparently is being address though. I hear things are now shipping. I was lucky to get one the wait list in December (number 25 to order the SEs) and waiting only a few weeks. I wasn't ready for them anyway, so it worked out well.


3. On the isolation, its not bad, but if you crank it, you can definitely here the sub. I used R19 and solid doors, which helped, but if you're looking to isolate, you really need to consider the other techniques. We don't have any bedrooms on the first floor and my office is directly above the HT room, so its not like I'd be disturbed, since I'd be the the HT room anyway.


4. The sub is a Hsu VTF2 MK2 and I've very happy with it. Glad I held on to it and modified the screen design to incorporate it in the system. Another bang for the buck!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - Some questions on your Sonance install
> 
> 
> 1 - Where they installed in a double layer of drywall and did you have any issues with the clamps?
> 
> 
> 2 - Did you make a back box (if No ignore the following q's)
> 
> 
> 3 - What was the volume?
> 
> 
> 4 - Any treatment within the box (insulation, cotton wadding?)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Mark,


Still looking for the MDF box info, but here is some info. First, on page 3 of the following PDF, you'll see that the RotoLock system will accommodate ceiling thicknesses of up to 1 3/8". I think it'll do better than that. Also, look at the lifetime warranty info while you're there.

http://www.sonance.com/image_data/do...wsym_ic_im.pdf 


There retro boxes (and part number) are mentioned in this document:

http://www.sonance.com/image_data/do...04symic_ds.pdf 


and can be seen here:

http://www.sonance.com/subs/product_...product_id=321 


Bud


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud, did you consider the Pioneer Elite 72/74 as well? What made you select the Yamaha? Does it have room EQ and auto setup?


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Here is the info on the MDF boxes:

http://www.sonance.com/subs/products...c%20Enclosures 


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Looking great Bud! The staining really came out great.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, did you consider the Pioneer Elite 72/74 as well? What made you select the Yamaha? Does it have room EQ and auto setup?



Hey Eric,


No, did not consider the Pioneer Elites. I looked at some Denon receivers, not sure of the models at this point though. I expected the Elite stuff to be expensive, so I didn't even look. I've had some good experience with Yamaha in the past, which was one reason I looked in that direction.


I was originally looking at the Yamaha RXV-1500, then the 2500 came out with its scaling/HDMI switching and that was the main reason for the decision. It does have the auto (YAO) setup, many DSP settings as well as manual EQ setup, reveberation delay/time setups and whole bunch of other tweaks and bells/whistles that are beyond my comprehension! I also got it for about 400.00 off MSRP.


Here is the highlevel info:
http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/r...rs/RXV2600.htm 


And the guts/details are in the manual:
http://www.yamaha.com/yec/customer/m...V2600_e(U).pdf 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mike, thanks. No updates to your thread?


Bud


----------



## ebr

Thanks for the links. I've picked through them a bit (interesting that they don't even mention the auto EQ as a feature on the main spec sheet) but if you don't mind can I ask you a few details...? I've been thinking I'm going to get the Pio Elite 72TXV but I've uncovered quite a few people who say the Yammy sounds better. This may or may not matter to me as I won't be using the amps (have externals) but, anyway, if you don't mind a couple specific questions, here they are:


1) is the only diff between the 1600 and 2600 the amp section or is there more?


2) can the lip sync delay be adjusted for each input or is it global for all?


3) can you overlay DLPIIx on top of a 5.1 digital source? I'm pretty sure the manual says yes but I'm not sure exactly how to read that matrix


4) can you turn OFF the scaling/upconversion function in the receiver?


Thanks.


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Thanks for all the links


I'm still not 100% sure what my speakers are going to be so I'm trying to be as universal as possible in the construction. Building my own boxes out of 3/4" MDF. Hopefully these will contain sound and if not I can always add the Retrofittable In-Ceiling Acoustic Enclosures later.


I'm desparatly trying to invent reasons for a business trip to Atlanta to hear your Ascends/Sonance










Only thing putting me off the Ascend uis the Side Surrounds are not that Asthetically pleasing to the eye (probably why you didn't use them either). Can't use In-ceiling sides like you or in-wall.......so look goes on. Anothetr Internet brand that gets good reviews in the Axioms, the side look good and trying to find out from them about compatable in-ceilings.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## ebr

Mark - just FYI - I will have the Axiom QS8s matched up with the Ascend 340SEs for main L/R. I have a couple of the QS8s setup temporarily in my family room and I really like them for surrounds.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 1) is the only diff between the 1600 and 2600 the amp section or is there more?
> 
> 
> 2) can the lip sync delay be adjusted for each input or is it global for all?
> 
> 
> 3) can you overlay DLPIIx on top of a 5.1 digital source? I'm pretty sure the manual says yes but I'm not sure exactly how to read that matrix
> 
> 
> 4) can you turn OFF the scaling/upconversion function in the receiver?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



1. I believe there is more, although I haven't looked too close at the 1600. The 1600 came out when the 2600 came out. I was looking at the 1500 orignally. The thread I mentioned before for the Yamaha is also for the 1600, so you might want to look through that thread. I think one thing that was discussed for the 2600 was the GUI (on screen versus on receiver).


2. Not sure.


3. Not sure.


4. Yes, you can turn this off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only thing putting me off the Ascend uis the Side Surrounds are not that Asthetically pleasing to the eye (probably why you didn't use them either). Can't use In-ceiling sides like you or in-wall.......so look goes on. Anothetr Internet brand that gets good reviews in the Axioms, the side look good and trying to find out from them about compatable in-ceilings.



Mark, I didn't want to hang ANY speakers on the walls. I wanted them hidden and didn't really have enough room for columns.


I was thinking Axoims at one point based on some reviews I read, then discovered the Ascends.


Bud


----------



## mastiff34

stupid question and it wont let me delete, sorry.


-Matt


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark - just FYI - I will have the Axiom QS8s matched up with the Ascend 340SEs for main L/R. I have a couple of the QS8s setup temporarily in my family room and I really like them for surrounds.



Ebr - thats worth thinking about - Thanks


- Ascend for Front

- Axiom for Side

- Sonance for rears


Sorry Bud - Hijack over


----------



## Cathan

Have you thought about how to build columns when using the Axioms? They fire both to each side and up and down. I have a set, but am unsure how exactly I'm going to put them into columns. Awesome surround speakers though!


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you thought about how to build columns when using the Axioms? They fire both to each side and up and down. I have a set, but am unsure how exactly I'm going to put them into columns. Awesome surround speakers though!



I'm not using columns - don't have the width.


----------



## Cathan

Well that makes it easy!


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you thought about how to build columns when using the Axioms? They fire both to each side and up and down. I have a set, but am unsure how exactly I'm going to put them into columns. Awesome surround speakers though!



Like this:











(sorry Bud, now my hijack is over)


----------



## chinadog

Just an update from the weekend. I stained and installed the final door. I actually did that Friday night. I've now got the HT room sealed off ... literally. I've got the door covered with painters tape and kraft paper from the outside. I'm working on the stairs and the area at the bottom of the stairs. Ceilings are done. I've got the walls primed and the crown/baseboard painted with an acrylic white paint that matched the rest of the house. I had a lot of work to do on the trim going down the stairs, lots of marks, gouges, holes, etc. Finally was able to get everything fixed and get it painted. I'm hoping to put the first coat on the walls today, then will move into the bathroom and prime everything.


On a side note, on Sunday, I spend half the day putting in concrete for my son's basketball pole. I should have the rest installed today. He's pretty pumped!


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just an update from the weekend. I stained and installed the final door. I actually did that Friday night. I've now got the HT room sealed off ... literally. I've got the door covered with painters tape and kraft paper from the outside. I'm working on the stairs and the area at the bottom of the stairs. Ceilings are done. I've got the walls primed and the crown/baseboard painted with an acrylic white paint that matched the rest of the house. I had a lot of work to do on the trim going down the stairs, lots of marks, gouges, holes, etc. Finally was able to get everything fixed and get it painted. I'm hoping to put the first coat on the walls today, then will move into the bathroom and prime everything.
> 
> 
> On a side note, on Sunday, I spend half the day putting in concrete for my son's basketball pole. I should have the rest installed today. He's pretty pumped!
> 
> 
> Bud



Nice.....keep up the good work man, you're almost there....


----------



## garykagan

Looking great!!!!


Gary


----------



## jerrodshook

You working Bud? It's been 14+ hours since your last onslaught of pics and updates.


You slacker!


----------



## BritInVA

Thats because he has.....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> got the HT room sealed off ... literally. I've got the door covered with painters tape and kraft paper from the outside. I'm working on the stairs and the area at the bottom of the stairs.
> 
> Bud



It won't be long before he has withdrawel symptoms just like us


----------



## ronnie_jackson

LOL, its pretty funny how we all depend on each other for fixes. Good thing there are several of these things going so we never cease to have some excitement. When it comes to posting though, Bud is the man. I think he is trying to catch up with SandmanX's thread.










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Gents,


Will post some pictures tomorrow. I have the first one side of the stairwell and the whole bottom of the landing. The trim has been primed and has two coats already. I pulled off the handrail, but because its like 16 feet long, I had to pull off the craft paper on the door so I could get the railing in the back room. Plan on stained that the same color as the rest of the HT trim. Since I had the door open, I went ahead and watched Transporter 2 so I could ship it back to netflix.


Tomorrow night is the kids playoff game, so not likely any work tomorrow night. I should have the stairs done before the weeks out, then I'll prime the bathroom this weekend. I think I may take Thurs/Fri of next week so I can start tiling.... been putting that off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jon and Gary...


Thanks. Not quite there... been not far off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You working Bud? It's been 14+ hours since your last onslaught of pics and updates.
> 
> 
> You slacker!



Not slacking, just working!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think he is trying to catch up with SandmanX's thread.



Not even close! He's got his own cult following. Now he's starting his on board! I think people are have serious withdrawals from his posts.


Mine are mostly filler!










Bud


----------



## bbboza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not even close! He's got his own cult following. Now he's starting his on board! I think people are have serious withdrawals from his posts.
> 
> 
> Mine are mostly filler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



True. So we NEED more pics!







j/k


I'm having a very good time following your thread and can't help but wish it would be going faster!










But hey!, who am I to tell you to hurry up!









]

Keep up the good work Bud, you're nearly there!


----------



## ronnie_jackson

To bad we dont all live in the same area. We could all join together and knock these out 1 by 1. Wouldnt that be fun! We could start our own show. Monster Theater










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

OK, so here are a few pictures of the area outside the theater for bbboza and just to prove to Jerrod that I'm actually still working....


All first coats. Painted around the HT door. I like the contrast. This is a darker paint that whats in the concession area, but looks almost the same with the flash.


























From HT room looking out towards the landing. Entrance to gameroom/bar on left, entrance to bathroom on right.










Right side of the bathroom. Thinking a ticket booth may be in the near future.










Here's the last door in that leads into the storage room off the concession area.










Looking down the stairs, painted the wall on the left (still wet). I was amazed with the number of nail pops and dinks over the last three years on these walls going down the stairs. This was drywalled by the builder. I had a lot of repairs to do both on the walls and on the molding/wood on the sides of the steps.










Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good bud!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks man.. Got that deck done yet?


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To bad we dont all live in the same area. We could all join together and knock these out 1 by 1. Wouldnt that be fun! We could start our own show. Monster Theater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Man, that wouldn't work. Whoever was the first to finish would have a completed HT and would most likely be "busy" in his spare time. Helping out the rest would be a lot tougher to do.... Plus, how would you figure out who was first? Better yet, who would be last?


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


The contrast between the white molding and paint and doors looks great! A question.... why did you paint the crown white instead of staining it in some areas? I'm sure you have a reason, but I'm curious....


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man, that wouldn't work. Whoever was the first to finish would have a completed HT and would most likely be "busy" in his spare time. Helping out the rest would be a lot tougher to do.... Plus, how would you figure out who was first? Better yet, who would be last?



But being that they're nationally televised, there would be too much pressure to continue helping others build theirs, after yours is done, for fear of public retaliation.


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


I thought about it for a while. The rest of the trim in the house is white. Outside of the HT room, I installed like 600 feet of crown, plus 100+ feet of baseboard. At some point, whether it was in the basement or at the top of the steps, I was going to have to transition to white. I didn't want to stain all that trim. Just the theater room took weeks. I would have had to buy three more solid pine doors and stain them as well.


I wanted the HT room door to really stand out. A prelude to what was behind it. Sort of peak people's interest. I really didn't want to paint one side of it either. I like it now, I've gotten used to it!


Bud


----------



## ScottJ0007

Bud,

Your theater and basement are looking great. I really like the color choice and contrast. I don't post on your thread much because I don't feel I have too much to add, but I check it every day. Thanks for the blow-by-blow narrative. I come here frequently to get my "fix" and to remotivate me to keep plugging away on my own basement.

- Scott


----------



## chinadog

Hey Scott, thanks. Stay tuned. A lot more to come!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's some posters I picked up from someone here on AVS a while ago. He had ordered them, they showed up damaged, they sent new ones, again damaged. They got it right on the third try, but he didn't want to throw the old ones out, so I bought them for next to nothing. Can you see the damage? I little glue and some touch up and they'll be as good as new. I may put a blak trim around them.


Thinking about hanging them in the concession area. The first two above the based cabinets and the Casablanca one on the side wall by the rack.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

As I mentioned, I'm really not doing a themed theater, but wanted to have a "old" feel to it, including the rest of the basement. Sort of like a TGI Fridays sort of look. I found another great ebay store for vintage reproduction signs & tins. The store is called "Pasttime Peddler".


You might like some of the items under the categories "Nostalgic Soda Pop Ad Signs", "Drive-In Movie & Snack Food " and "Bar & Tavern Signs". Here's the website. Replace the stars with "ebay".

http://stores.****.com/Pastime-Peddl...QQftidZ2QQtZkm 


I especially like these


































You get the idea...


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

I love those posters! They are gonna be killer in your concession area. I grew up watching Karloff!


----------



## chinadog

HeyNow,


I think they'll look good. Colors go well with the walls and trim.


When I build my lightboxes, I plan on using older posters like those above to keep in line with everything else. I'll use the same stain to tie it all together. Same with the ticket booth. I think I posted pictures before of the clock outlets I installed for them. You can see one in the photo outside the bathroom. Still chewing on a marquee idea as well. Guess I better get the basement finished!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks man.. Got that deck done yet?
> 
> 
> Bud



Finally finished it. We are going to have a party on Memorial Day Weekend that you and the wife should come to. Now...time to get back to work on the basement for me...


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Hey, just checked your album. Looks great. Did you eliminate the stairs? Also, when you did your post lights, did you drill and run the wire through the bottom of the post or sneak it around the back? That's another thing on my list.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I really like the doors. I've never seen Pine look so deep and rich -- nice job!


----------



## chinadog

Hey Steve, welcome back.


I was sort of surprised myself. I guess you can stain any wood any color. Slap on some poly and your done. I guess it depends on your taste for hardness and grain. Me, I wanted to tie it all together with the same wood. Pine was abundant and cheap. The doors are pretty heavy too.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Thanks for the link on the signs! I definitely want a few of those for my bar/card table/pool area.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link on the signs! I definitely want a few of those for my bar/card table/pool area.



Pretty reasonable too.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Finished the first coat on one side of the stairs, then went back and started the second coat from the previous day. I worked my way around in a clockwise direction, then headed up the stairs the do the second coat on the other side. I finished up at the top, turned around and knocked into the five gallon bucket of paint which proceeds to go end over end down the stairs!










Of course I can't catch it. I use a screen in a bucket to paint instead of a paint tray, so I put only what I needed in the bucket from a gallon can. It was enough though, it leaked out on the stairs basically, but when it came to the bottom, to hit a halogen light I was working with and it splattered, getting some of the HT door. Luckily the stuff is pretty thick and it wasn't much. Also, luckily it was latex and cleanup with some water was easy.


Two close calls right in front of that door. Hmmmm.... maybe someone is trying to tell me something!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Man - that was a close call!


Glad you were able to clean up


----------



## ebr

Someone's trying to tell you to stop drinking while you're working with buckets full of liquid dye...


----------



## chinadog

I save my drinking when I plant my butt in my lawn chair and turn on a movie.... must be the fumes!










Bud


----------



## ridetheducati

China,


It sounds like you have to sacrifice a couple of DVDs for the HT Builders Gods. Pick two inconsequential movies and donate them to a local stranger. You will feel good about yourself while appeasing the HTBG. It is the only way to ward off the bad Mojo.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ridetheducati* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> China,
> 
> 
> It sounds like you have to sacrifice a couple of DVDs for the HT Builders Gods. Pick two inconsequential movies and donate them to a local stranger. You will feel good about yourself while appeasing the HTBG. It is the only way to ward off the bad Mojo.



I thought about burying a DVD upside down in the yard, maybe throwing in some popcorn and some leftover speaker wire. Think that'll work?










Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought about burying a DVD upside down in the yard, maybe throwing in some popcorn and some leftover speaker wire. Think that'll work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



I think you need a chicken foot with that. Make sure its the left foot. Don't want to think about what might happen if it was the right...


----------



## chinadog

I think my wife used the last left chicken foot for her "Chicken Foot Soup", need to run out and get some more. Maybe I can get some online?









Recipe for chicken foot soup 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

After a few bowls of Chicken Foot soup (hope you guys know I was kidding about the soup), I went down and worked on my hand rail. I had to sand the whole thing down, since they used poly on it. Prestained and two coats of stain. I think it needs one more coat. I also painted some more trim and touched up the one side of the stair wall with some mud in preparation for a final coat of paint.


Turns out we had a playoff game tonight (and tomorrow night and probably Saturday), so not a lot is going to get done. I also have two pallets of Bermuda sod being delivered in the morning, so I'll be putting that down over the next day or so.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Turns out we had a playoff game tonight (and tomorrow night and probably Saturday), so not a lot is going to get done. I also have two pallets of Bermuda sod being delivered in the morning, so I'll be putting that down over the next day or so.
> 
> 
> Bud



Sod is such fun. I did 9-10 pallets of sod in my yard 1.5 years ago, and it's promptly getting torn to heck right now by a landscaper building a patio and planting trees and stuff all over my yard. He's doing the sod at the end because I just have no desire to do that again. Your fingers will be stinging once you're done! Have fun!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Great.... just found out they delivered the sod to the neightbors house (he got some too). My drive is like 200 feet long.... what a pain in the butt.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

I think I'd call and say that you were expecting a delivery to your house today and nobody came... Followed by, "I ordered the sod to be delivered to my house, not my neighbors"...


Unless by "pain in the butt", you mean calling them... I hope you're not planning on hauling it over, are you? You must have very understanding and patient neighbors as well then...


----------



## chinadog

Pain in the butt in general. My neightbor is a builder and ordered the sod for us. He gets stuff for us at his cost. It's not like I called the SOD store. They came sometime apparently pretty early and I don't expect they'll send a truck back to move it. Still need to talk to my neoghbor, but we'll figure it out.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Ah, not so bad then (except for moving it







)


On another note, I just noticed the signs.. Very cool, especially the popcorn one for your theater. Are you planning on showing an older movie, like Citizen Kane for your opener?


----------



## chinadog

Haven't decided, but probably not. Still running around like a chicken with its head (not foot) cut off trying to get things done. No chance to even think about it!


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Hey I'm laying sod today too, just took a break to see what you all are up to:


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jason,
> 
> 
> Hey, just checked your album. Looks great. Did you eliminate the stairs? Also, when you did your post lights, did you drill and run the wire through the bottom of the post or sneak it around the back? That's another thing on my list.
> 
> 
> Bud




Thanks Bud. Stairs are being added this weekend. This Picture is actually a picture of the gate to the future stairs. Lights were very easy as I just use a staple gun and kept the wires tight on the inside of each posts. You will have to come over and check it out.


----------



## r00ster

Hey Bud, I wanted to regurgitate some info: You put the Panny 900 13' back from your 16:9 screen correct? What is the measurement from floor to PJ? You are using a 104" diagonal Carada Screen so your width is about 8'?


I am asking because my Pj should be here monday and I wanted to verify my placement. My plan is to be about 15-16' feet back from the screen and projecting onto a 9' wide screen. How long is your room again? I thought it was around 20' ? I am just trying to figure out all my calculations to make sure they are correct.


thanks


Drew


----------



## chinadog

BIG,


The neighbors landscapers used ALL the sod, so I guess I'll get some more. Just got back from baseball and figured I'd start tomorrow, but no need.


Looks like the sod laid you!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You will have to come over and check it out.



Definately will!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I wanted to regurgitate some info: You put the Panny 900 13' back from your 16:9 screen correct? What is the measurement from floor to PJ? You are using a 104" diagonal Carada Screen so your width is about 8'?
> 
> 
> I am asking because my Pj should be here monday and I wanted to verify my placement. My plan is to be about 15-16' feet back from the screen and projecting onto a 9' wide screen. How long is your room again? I thought it was around 20' ? I am just trying to figure out all my calculations to make sure they are correct.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Drew



I'll give you some exact measurements tomorrow. I think its posted here somewhere, but will remeasure and repost. The bottom of the soffit was 96 inches from the floor, then subtract out about an inch for plywood to mount the mount to (two 1/2" pieces) and then the Chief mount. They say the closer to the middle of the screen the better. Mine is right at the top of my screen.


Correct on the Carada, the exact measurements for the 104 Criterion are on the website found here. 


My room is like 11.5 by 19. I lost about 14 inches on the false wall, so closer to 18. I believe I'm at about 13 feet and I can go a lot bigger image-wise than the screen. I would expect at 15-16 feet, you're could go a lot bigger.


I used a 9' foot screen (108 width) and here are the results. You're in the range at 15-16 feet with a 1.0 gain. I'm sure you've looked at the AE900 throw distances on projectorcentral.com, but here it is:

http://images17.fotki.com/v309/photo...2/AE900-vi.jpg 


EDIT: Corrected diag/width what Chris mentioned below.


Bud


----------



## chriswrx

Hey Bud,

It looks like 108 lengthwise, not diagonal wise on the picture. Am i wrong?


----------



## chinadog

Chris,


Yes, Drew said 9 feet wide in his post, which is why I went 108 in width. For 16:9, that's 124" in diag. That's one honkin' screen!


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Thanks Bud. Yeah since I bought the SMX720 AT screen material from Sandman I was going to put my speakers behind the screen so I can go with a larger screen. I was just wondering about PJ positioning. I can look at calculations all day long but until I can see it I just don't trust it, that's why I asked you.


My plan was to do a large 16:9 screen and have a mask drop down about 1.2 feet to make a 2.35 screen. That way I can do HDTV for football and 2.35 for movies.


Drew


----------



## r00ster

Bud, I forgot to ask and I am not sure you mentioned it in this thread...but did you insulate your entire basement to include the ceilings? I know you did in the HT but I was wondering about the rest. I am toying with the idea of not insulating the ceilings in the rest of my basement. The walls are already insulated.


Drew


----------



## Chiahead

Hey Bud, its looking good, your in the home stretch.


I have a trim staining question for you...


Did you cut the trim to length then stain, or stain the stock first, then cut to length?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud. Yeah since I bought the SMX720 AT screen material from Sandman I was going to put my speakers behind the screen so I can go with a larger screen. I was just wondering about PJ positioning. I can look at calculations all day long but until I can see it I just don't trust it, that's why I asked you.
> 
> 
> My plan was to do a large 16:9 screen and have a mask drop down about 1.2 feet to make a 2.35 screen. That way I can do HDTV for football and 2.35 for movies.
> 
> 
> Drew



I'm an advocate of getting the screen and projector and mounting them to figure out the final throw prior to drywall.


Long day. Will be back to work tomorrow and will post the measurements.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I forgot to ask and I am not sure you mentioned it in this thread...but did you insulate your entire basement to include the ceilings? I know you did in the HT but I was wondering about the rest. I am toying with the idea of not insulating the ceilings in the rest of my basement. The walls are already insulated.
> 
> 
> Drew



I insulated the HT room and the concession area, including the ceilings with R19. I did not do the ceilings of the other rooms. not sure its really necessary.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, its looking good, your in the home stretch.
> 
> 
> I have a trim staining question for you...
> 
> 
> Did you cut the trim to length then stain, or stain the stock first, then cut to length?



I stained/polyed everything first, then cut it to length. Prior to installing, I went ahead and stained the cut (takes like 2 seconds), then installed. I used matching (or close to it) nail filler at that point.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Drew..


The top (OK, its inverted, but I'm still calling it the top) of the projector is about 92 inches and the projector is 13 feet away. The top of the visual portion of the screen is at 84.5 inches. This may be slightly different then before, I think I move the screen up a few inches from my initial placement.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Thanks Bud.


Drew


----------



## chinadog

Weekend update....


Not a lot of time in the HT room, except for a movie or two with the kids. The SOD did come and I spent a few hours on Saturday putting it down. It was delivered to a new house on the street, so I had to make about 3-4 trips with my truck, load it on, run back to my house install it, go back, etc. Not bad, took a few hours. I also got my kids basketball hoop up, it's only been in the garage since November.


I did prime the bathroom walls and trim. I also managed to get the ceiling finished, as well as the first coat of trim paint. I should be able the trim up tonight, but need to figure out the wall color and the tile. I'm hoping to take Thursday and Friday off this week to tile the bathroom. Hopefully I'll get the painted completely before hand, then just worry about touchups.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Lets see....


Bathroom is as far as I can take it paint-wise. Still need to make a final decision on color. Plan on getting out today and getting the tile so I can work on that the next few days. I'm hoping by the end of the weekend the tile will be installed and grouted.


Also been priming the gameroom at night. The ceilings are done and all the crown is done. Did a few walls, but need to pick up like two more gallons of primer.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

For you Atlanta area people.... I have some leftovers if you're hungry.


I'm trying to cleanup my area so I'm not constantly moving things when trying to paint. I have the following items that I need to get rid of. It's FREE if you come and get it. I'll also give you the Bud tour of the BR Cinema....


1. About 30 feet of Linacoustic

2. 1 roll of poly batting

3. Foil scrim

4. Almost one bag of acoustic cotton


Take it all, take some of it... just take it. PM me for directions.


First come, first served. I'd like it out of here ASAP.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just bought the tile for the bathroom. What a pain the butt. Went to HD to look at what they had. Saw some nice stuff, but they had no bullnose pieces, couldn't find any different sizes in one tile, so I walked off POed. Drove to Lowes, went in and walked out. Just not a lot of in stock stuff. Drove to "Floor and Decor". Spent the first 20 minutes walking around the place. The had a bunch of corporate types walking around inspecting stuff. None of the floor people even said "Boo" to me. Found some OK stuff, but could not find matching floor tile. Tried to find someone, walked around for 5 minutes and found two employees talking to each other. Neither had a clue about tile. Finally, I found a floor tile that was pretty close to the wall tile I found. A nice lady finally came by and answered a bunch of questions. $400.00+ later, I was out of there, wondering if the tile would fall off the cart in the parking lot. I still need to get mortar and grout, but figured I'd go to HD in the morning. I had enough for one day. I'm loosing all confidence in these big box stores....


Picked up three more cans of primer. That should be it!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the first of a few biggies..

Carpet will be installed on Tuesday!










They'll be doing the stairs and the HT room. I'll keep the rest of the biggies to myself ... for now!


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> I'm loosing all confidence in these big box stores....



Aren't you a shareholder @ big orange? Space looks great Bud, wish I was in Atlanta to scoop up the freebies.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I wish I was a few years ago. Not so sure now. They've just been milking me these last few years. I did turn down a job at the corp office in the fall, so that makes up for it a little, I suppose...


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had enough for one day. I'm loosing all confidence in these big box stores....
> 
> 
> Bud



I would agree that the big box stores are not like they use to be. It seams like they are now catering to the mass public, home improvement, and are no longer the contractor/DIY, building supply.


15 years ago when i first went to Home Club they were strictly a building supply house. they did not have any home decor etc. shure lkied the old busness model better.


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Drove to "Floor and Decor". Spent the first 20 minutes walking around the place. The had a bunch of corporate types walking around inspecting stuff. None of the floor people even said "Boo" to me. Found some OK stuff, but could not find matching floor tile. Tried to find someone, walked around for 5 minutes and found two employees talking to each other. Neither had a clue about tile.



Pretty sad that this is the norm and even a small amount of service is considered to be above average. Sounds like HD's been dropping the ball for you lately (the lost bar plan also). HT really looks great. Can't wait to see the pics with the carpet down.


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pretty sad that this is the norm and even a small amount of service is considered to be above average. Sounds like HD's been dropping the ball for you lately (the lost bar plan also).



Scott,


I won't mention (OK, I will) the fact that I had to go 5 different times to finalize my flooring. The measurement gets sent to Addison, TX where they call you to finalize the deal (and try and sell you extra stuff). Unfortunately, the guys in TX screwed it up several times and it went back and forth between them and the store. Each time I went in to finalize, it was wrong. I went to their opinion site and made a real stink.


On top of that, I was ready to plunk down a bundle on cabinets for the bar, on one of those trips, but got so frustrated with the flooring and the fact that the cabinet people were no where to be found, I walked out. Although I had hoped to be installing cabinets soon, I'm now looking at other options, so that'll be another month or two probably. I'm not going through all that BS again with them.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would agree that the big box stores are not like they use to be. It seams like they are now catering to the mass public, home improvement, and are no longer the contractor/DIY, building supply.
> 
> 
> 15 years ago when i first went to Home Club they were strictly a building supply house. they did not have any home decor etc. shure lkied the old busness model better.



Its pretty disappointing. 95% of the time I go in there with the soul purpose of finding what I need and getting the hell out of the there. I don't want to talk to the sales people, since most of them are not very helpful or experienced with the task in hand. They can point you to an aisle, but that's about it. I'd rather just go online.


My 2 cents.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Sad to hear about that whole mess. I must say that Lowe's near me has been great. It's a new store they opened less than a year ago and I've always received some good help. Electrical was a bit sketchy until I was able to track down the head guy one time..... The HD near me is older and has narrow isles and I just don't care for it.


----------



## chinadog

Took the day off to work in the basement. Went to my favorite (NOT) place this morning and pick up some mortar, grout, spaces and some other stuff. I also rented a jamb saw.


I cut all the jambs in preparation for flooring. Worked like a jewel. It was 22.00 for 4 hours, or 30 for the day. I had quite a few jambs, would have taken me some time to cut those by hand. I have some minor sanding and touchup as a result, but no biggie.


Next, I tiled the bathroom floor. Going to wait until Saturday, then tile the shower surround. I'll grout on Sunday.


Later, I finished priming the walls in the gameroom. I only have to do the ceiling under the soffits now, which I'll do in the morning. I plan on doing the first coat on the ceilings after that, doing some touch up and sanding, then the second coat in the afternoon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sad to hear about that whole mess. I must say that Lowe's near me has been great. It's a new store they opened less than a year ago and I've always received some good help. Electrical was a bit sketchy until I was able to track down the head guy one time..... The HD near me is older and has narrow isles and I just don't care for it.



Sometimes I think they're happier to say "hello' than help you. I think they must have a quota....







I'm told Nardelli rides his Harley to a few local stores here in Atlanta and walks around to check on things. He may, but I tell you, some of these people are like robots. Maybe I'll run into him sometime and tell him whats wrong with his stores!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For you Atlanta area people.... I have some leftovers if you're hungry.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to cleanup my area so I'm not constantly moving things when trying to paint. I have the following items that I need to get rid of. It's FREE if you come and get it. I'll also give you the Bud tour of the BR Cinema....
> 
> 
> 1. About 30 feet of Linacoustic
> 
> 2. 1 roll of poly batting
> 
> 3. Foil scrim
> 
> 4. Almost one bag of acoustic cotton
> 
> 
> Take it all, take some of it... just take it. PM me for directions.
> 
> 
> First come, first served. I'd like it out of here ASAP.
> 
> 
> Bud


*
OFFER IS STILL AVAILABLE!!!!!*


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Next, I tiled the bathroom floor. Going to wait until Saturday, then tile the shower surround. I'll grout on Sunday.
> 
> 
> Later, I finished priming the walls in the gameroom. I only have to do the ceiling under the soffits now, which I'll do in the morning. I plan on doing the first coat on the ceilings after that, doing some touch up and sanding, then the second coat in the afternoon.



Man...Tile and painting, my two most hated jobs! You're in the home stretch Bud, keep it going! Can you UPS beer? Because I would love to buy you a six pack when you're done so you can sit back and enjoy a few cold ones. If I get down to Augusta for the Masters next year, I would love to stop in Atlanta and see what you have done.


Scott


----------



## jbinatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> *
> OFFER IS STILL AVAILABLE!!!!!*
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud-

Atlanta guy who's been watching this thread closely for some time - your offer has pulled me from the ranks of lurkers. I've got a large dedicated room which won't start for a few months, but I've got the storage and may take you up on the offer. I'm smack in the middle of Buckhead (just off Northside). What kind of trip am I looking at and how much room will I need? Can't wait to see the finished product.









-JB


----------



## jbinatl

And I'll bring the beer...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbinatl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud-
> 
> Atlanta guy who's been watching this thread closely for some time - your offer has pulled me from the ranks of lurkers. I've got a large dedicated room which won't start for a few months, but I've got the storage and may take you up on the offer. I'm smack in the middle of Buckhead (just off Northside). What kind of trip am I looking at and how much room will I need? Can't wait to see the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -JB



jbinatl,


Great! Just north of Kennesaw and Marietta. In a subdivision called Bentwater. About 25 miles from the perimeter. If you want to make a trip on the weekend, let me know (a lot less traffic). If you prefer I meet you part way, we can work that out. Just let me know. Your choice.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man...Tile and painting, my two most hated jobs! You're in the home stretch Bud, keep it going! Can you UPS beer? Because I would love to buy you a six pack when you're done so you can sit back and enjoy a few cold ones. If I get down to Augusta for the Masters next year, I would love to stop in Atlanta and see what you have done.
> 
> 
> Scott



Hey Scott,


Been to a few practice rounds and one tournament Saturday. Love that place! What are the odds of you getting there next year? And of course, in what capacity? Send me a PM if you prefer...


Bud


----------



## wbart4

Bud,

I sent a P.M. on Tuesday. Did you get it??

wbart


----------



## chinadog

wbart,


NO, sorry. I jsut saw it when you posted here. My fault. I'll be happy to honor that though. Are you still going to be in the area? I usually get a popup when I get PMs.


jbinatl,


I apologize, I'm going to have to give the stuff to wbart4 if he still wants it. If not, its yours.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's some posters I picked up from someone here on AVS a while ago. He had ordered them, they showed up damaged, they sent new ones, again damaged. They got it right on the third try, but he didn't want to throw the old ones out, so I bought them for next to nothing. Can you see the damage? I little glue and some touch up and they'll be as good as new. I may put a blak trim around them.
> 
> 
> Thinking about hanging them in the concession area. The first two above the based cabinets and the Casablanca one on the side wall by the rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


Those posters are to cool!!!

Are they reprints?

Looking great.


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


I'm sure they're reprints. I'm sure there are plenty of places to get them, like art.com and allposters.com. Maybe someone else knows. Check at the movie section at http://www.allposters.com . I saw some oldies, like Absent Minded Professor and The Wizard of Oz.


Looks like there is a Vintage section.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Took the day off to work in the basement. Went to my favorite (NOT) place this morning and pick up some mortar, grout, spaces and some other stuff. I also rented a jamb saw.
> 
> 
> I cut all the jambs in preparation for flooring. Worked like a jewel. It was 22.00 for 4 hours, or 30 for the day. I had quite a few jambs, would have taken me some time to cut those by hand.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


This is pretty timely for me. I just got all of my doors and was wondering if you installed them with a gap at the bottom for flooring, or cut that later. I guess you just answered my question.







This is actually the first time I've ever heard of a jamb saw.


Just wondering though... Would you recommend always installing the jambs resting on the floor and then cutting them later? Even if you already know what flooring you're going to put in?


What if you have flooring of two different heights coming together, like laminate on one side with bare concrete (like a storage room) on the other? Can you use a jamb saw to cut half of the jamb without cutting through the other side? I noticed it's a circular blade. And carpet, I'm assuming, you cut around the jamb rather than cutting the jamb to allow carpet underneath?


Thanks for being such a great resource!


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Good questions. I'm sure if you wanted to, you could raise the door prior when installing. A few things to think about though. You may be limited to the height of the rough in. You'd have to make sure you have enough room to raise the door and still be able to make sure its level. I personally think its easier to put it on the floor, make sure its level (the floor), shim appropriately and cut the jamb later. Keep in mind that the door usually will have about a 1" gap already at the bottom of it to compensate for flooring. If you raise the jamb prior to installing, you almost make that gap bigger.


When I installed doors in the past, I cut them down by hand. The hardwood flooring and tile people are the ones that usually have the jamb saws, not the carpet guys. Carpet guys tend not to cut the jambs. You also cut through the casing that's trimmed around the door at the same time.


You can cut only one side if you want to. You have that control. A jamb saw is like a circular saw, but lays horizontal on the floor and adjusts up and down for height. You start and one side and move around where you need to cut. I have an instance in my storage room where it'll meet laminate. I didn't have to, but I cut the concrete side of the jamb. I'll use a transition to go from laminate to concrete. You wouldn't notice the jamb cut, since the laminate is like 3/8 or 1/2 thick. It'll be the same height off the floor as the baseboard anyway, so it won't look out of place.


As far as the carpet was concerned, I went ahead and cut it anyway. Between the pad and the carpet, you'd never know. Just made it easier. I was going to just do the one side, but I don't think it'll make any difference at all.


Sounds like you googled it, but for those that didn't, here's what it looks like. I believe this was the actual one from HD I rented.










More info here:
http://www.craintools.com/fs-specialtysaws.html 

At the very bottom of the page you can see the saws you use to cut the jamb by hand.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,


It seems like it would be alot easier to do it the way you describe. I'm going to plan on doing it that way. I have all of next week off and plan to finish up painting the ceiling and walls and start on installing doors and some other home projects that need to get done upstairs.


As always, thanks for taking the time to give such thorough answers! It really helps. And it helps to know it's coming from a guy who's on his third basement finishing project!


----------



## swithey

Bud,


As I near closer to HT completion, I'm re-starting my projector research. Since you own the Panasonic PT-AE900U projector, I had a few questions for you (if you don't mind). You may have answered some of these earlier but I cannot seem to find the answers:


1) When you zoom in/out with this projector, does it grow the image evenly on all sides or does it just grow on left, right and bottom (assuming the projector is upside down and ceiling mounted)? I ask because I've read that the 900U prefers to be positioned on the "center" of the screen (which implys that all sides grow evenly). However, the lens shift allows you to position it higher and lower than that (more on that in my next question).


2) With the lens shift, how far "above" the top of the screen image can you have the projector be without the need to "tilt" the projector (if this is even possible).


3) How is the noise level? Are you running it in a "theater mode" that lower the light output and fan speed? How loud is it at max light output?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> It seems like it would be alot easier to do it the way you describe. I'm going to plan on doing it that way. I have all of next week off and plan to finish up painting the ceiling and walls and start on installing doors and some other home projects that need to get done upstairs.
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for taking the time to give such thorough answers! It really helps. And it helps to know it's coming from a guy who's on his third basement finishing project!



Not a problem at all, let me know if you have any more questions.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> As I near closer to HT completion, I'm re-starting my projector research. Since you own the Panasonic PT-AE900U projector, I had a few questions for you (if you don't mind). You may have answered some of these earlier but I cannot seem to find the answers:
> 
> 
> 1) When you zoom in/out with this projector, does it grow the image evenly on all sides or does it just grow on left, right and bottom (assuming the projector is upside down and ceiling mounted)? I ask because I've read that the 900U prefers to be positioned on the "center" of the screen (which implys that all sides grow evenly). However, the lens shift allows you to position it higher and lower than that (more on that in my next question).



It grows from all sides. I believe it says in the manual that it prefers the center of the screen for best quality of picture. Now, I'm not sure if they mean left to right or dead center.


> Quote:
> 2) With the lens shift, how far "above" the top of the screen image can you have the projector be without the need to "tilt" the projector (if this is even possible).



You can shift the image down using the joystick without having to tilt the projector. A few posts back I posted my heights for Drew, my actual lens is above the viewable portion of the screen and I use the lens shift to bring the image down. I think Im about 6-8 inches above the screen now. My projector is perfectly level at this point and I don't use the keystone correction. Even wit slight keystoning, I doubt you'll notice any difference in quality of the image.


> Quote:
> 3) How is the noise level? Are you running it in a "theater mode" that lower the light output and fan speed? How loud is it at max light output?



I'm using low lamp and high fan. It's pretty quiet, you won't really notice it unless you really listen for it. This is something you'll have to experience yourself, since everyone has their own threshold. Right now I sit on the riser, I'm actually a little behind it and to the side. I think if I sat in the front row, I wouldn't really hear it at all (maybe I'm used to it). From the front row, I'd be about 2-3 feet in front of it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I had a good experience at HD today,,, sort of. I bought wall tile from "Floor and Decor" the other day, but decided today I didn't like it. So I went to HD today and some woman I've seen there before goes by and I grabbed here to ask her opinion on the color choice. She was very nice, honest and helpful and worked with me for a while to get some complementary tile to go with my floor I just tiled. The only problem I had today was that the accent pieces I selected, they couldn't find enough, even though the system said they had it. After getting "the Reach" and pulling pallets off the top shelve, they pretty much gave up. I had to go to another store, about 20 miles away and pick up the rest. SOOOOOoooo, I didn't start until about 3:00 PM and just finished up for the night. I still have the bullnose to do and to drill a few tiles for 1 inch copper (Joy). Been a long day.


OH and it looks like my sod is really drying out, even though I'm watering. Apparently not enough.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> *
> OFFER IS STILL AVAILABLE!!!!!*
> 
> 
> Bud



Gone! wbart4 came by yesterday and picked everything up. Sorry jbinatlm, you're still welcome to come up anytime and have a beer and check out the theater.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Thanks for your reply. Having it "grow" on all sides will be helpful if I do a 2.35:1 screen and use the ZOOM method until I get an anamorphic lens.


I'll actually be able to demo a 900U in person soon because a buddy of mine has one. I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## chinadog

Finished up the tile work in the early afternoon after another HD run to a store out of tile and off to a second store. I thought I'd be done grouting by now, so that'll happen next weekend, I suppose.


Started the second coat on the ceilings, should finish that tonight so I can move onto trim. Put the last coat on the one remaining stair wall finally. I fixed a few spots on the ceiling on the way down the stairs, so I need to put some paint on that this morning and a second coat later today. Need to get that done because the stairs are being carpeted tomorrow.


I also put one more coat of stain and two coats of poly on the handrail yesterday. I remounted the handrail last night. Looks good with the matching stain of the doors.


Pictures to come.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bathroom tiled. I'll do a grey grout. Pretty boring design, but hey, its a basement.











Bud


----------



## Cathan

Ahhh, where is the showerhead going to connect to? Or is that just a bath?


i like the tile color design.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ahhh, where is the showerhead going to connect to? Or is that just a bath?
> 
> 
> i like the tile color design.



There is a hole you can't see in the picture about two rows down from the top. It has a brass female connector on it that's threaded. When you buy the control/spigot/shower head, it all comes together in a box and the shower head has a pipe that's threaded on the end. You put some teflon tape on the end and install it.










Bud


----------



## Cathan

Phew. I couldn't spot the hole so was a bit worried. Just didn't make sense that you'd over look this part though.


----------



## chinadog

After all the research and recommendations, I still kept coming back to the Dupont Laminate flooring. Apparently this stuff can take some amount of moisture in case of accidents and has a 30 year warranty if installed correctly.


To me, it looks pretty good. It comes preinstalled with the backing. It'll be interesting to hear what it sounds like. I also picked up Duponts slate laminate for the bar. I uses the same attachment system, so it'll be at a consistent height and a nice transition, which was one of the selling points.


Now to get the painting done so I can install it this weekend (48 boxes to go).










I went with Merbau Block.










Here is the Dupont info on it:
http://www.flooring.dupont.com/en/design/FG8010.shtml 


Forgot to take a picture of the slate. Here is Dupont's info on it. It looks a lot blacker in real life:










Info on the Black Slate:
http://www.flooring.dupont.com/en/design/FG8090.shtml 


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Looks good Bud. Is that the "snap together stuff" or what? Some of laminates they have look pretty darn good compared to real wood.


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Yes, both the wood laminates and the tiles utilize a glueless locking system. Should go pretty quick I hope.

http://www.flooring.dupont.com/en/install/gls/gls.shtml 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Berks were ordered last week!!!!

I ended up going with the option below. Wanted the extra size. I'll obviously post pictures when they arrive. I think this was the best option for me due to my size and requirements. I would have loved to have gone with the 088s in a the 7 row configuration, but felt more comfortable in the 090s.


Anyway.


There is a new authorized Berkline dealer. I ordered mine through *Ben Harper*, here on AVS. You've seen him post in this thread. For price quotes on Berklines, either send Ben Harper a PM or send an email to [email protected] . He'll treat you right! Great prices, too.


Here is the configuration I ordered through Ben (thanks Ben).









Bud


----------



## ifeliciano

Thanks for the tip on Ben.


----------



## chinadog

Well, carpet guys are here. Guess what? They messed up the stage measurement and shorted the carpet. Guess what? No carpet for the riser.










So, I'm fuming if you can imagine. They're part way through the install already. I called HD about three times,. talked to the Store Manager and bitched. Now I have to wait for the measurement guy to come out, measure again, special order the carpet and get opn the installers schedule again. I tried to set up a date, but they won't talk to me until the carpet is ordered.


I told the store manager that they just lost a cabinet order. He's suppose to call me back. We'll see what happens.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Give 'em HELL Bud!!


Kevin -


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


"Hell" is an understatement!


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

I tried every way from Sunday _not_ to buy my drywall from them Friday, but everyone else in town is "cut off" from selling it " due to the shortage"(from a woman at USG). It's either them or the blue box...


I constantly scratch my head at the treatment I get at Big Orange...


Kevin -


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud -


I thought I remembered a ways back you and the wife going to Dalton to look at carpet. What made you decide to go with Big Orange instead?


Kevin -


----------



## nebrunner

You are having Home Depot's subcontractors install your carpeting? Make sure you keep a close eye on them and pray that they hire better guys in Atlanta than they do in Omaha:

Omaha Home Depot carpet nightmare


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


We did. The price differential was not significant for what we ordered, since we did the HT room and stairs in carpet only.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nebrunner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are having Home Depot's subcontractors install your carpeting? Make sure you keep a close eye on them and pray that they hire better guys in Atlanta than they do in Omaha:
> 
> Omaha Home Depot carpet nightmare



I've been watching them. Actually, there did a better job than most of the other guys I've seen. What they had is now installed. I'll take some pictures and post shortly. On a conference call.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Nebrunner -


Dang! That is just not right...


Kevin -


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud -


If I only need about 500 sq ft. of carpet is it worth going to Dalton? From our house thats a 2 hr drive...


It would seem selection would be better there, even if the prices arent all that different...


Kevin -


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


HUGE selction of carpet up there, so if you're looking for something in particular that you can't find elsewhere, then sure. The money you'd spend in gas may counter the price differential if you're looking for standard carpet.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I see I am not the only one with this kind of luck. Sorry to hear about the carpet Bud. We have been looking at Home Depot for some carpet also. They are running a special through today where you get %10 off and free pad. Of course I will pay some additional and get the upgraded pad, but its still a deal. They told me its 3 weeks at least before they can install once you order. Seems like a long time.


Ronnie


----------



## documentarymaker

Ronnie/Bud -


I'm thinking about a commercial grade of carpet. Something thicker with a short nap. My reasoning is that it should be more resilient to wear and bend around the radius' of the stage and riser better without the "dollhair" effect.


Any thoughts?


Kevin -


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Not sure what to say. My theater will be low traffic anyway, so regular stuff would probably outlast everything else in the house by 2-3 times anyway.


As for the bending around radiuses like steps and etc, I have seen regular carpet done this way without issues. Now if you went really cheap, then you might have an issue, but if you get something fairly dense, i dont think you will be able to tell.


Home Depot carries commercial carpet also. They actually have a pretty good selection.



Maybe someone with experience can chime in and help us.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see I am not the only one with this kind of luck. Sorry to hear about the carpet Bud. We have been looking at Home Depot for some carpet also. They are running a special through today where you get %10 off and free pad. Of course I will pay some additional and get the upgraded pad, but its still a deal. They told me its 3 weeks at least before they can install once you order. Seems like a long time.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Upgraded pad is 1.00 more a yard. It's pretty nice.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *documentarymaker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ronnie/Bud -
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about a commercial grade of carpet. Something thicker with a short nap. My reasoning is that it should be more resilient to wear and bend around the radius' of the stage and riser better without the "dollhair" effect.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Kevin -



What makes you think that regular carpet around the stage will be an issue? I actually looked at some of the commercial grades in Dalton, so different patterns for sure, but not very friendly to the touch.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's where we are with the carpet.



























Here are the stairs. Notice the stained handrail.











Oh and HD hasn't bothered to call back with my appointment for remeasuring. I just called them again and they had to go find the store manager.


Bud


----------



## TheSpoon

Well, at least what the installers did get done looks good.



> Quote:
> They messed up the stage measurement and shorted the carpet. Guess what? No carpet for the riser.



Just making sure I'm reading that right... The stage was mismeasured and then they didn't bring enough carpet for the riser? So, two screwups on the same job? Makes me want to learn how to do carpet myself when the time comes.


*EDIT* You might want to call HD Customer Care at 1-800-553-3199 and see if they'll do something.


Nelson


----------



## chinadog

Nelson,


Correct. Sorry, was in a rage when I typed it. The carpet width for the stage was about a foot short (not the width of the room, from the back of the stage to the floor on the front of the stage) and they didn't even have the extra carpet for the riser. I looked at the cut diagrams and sure enough, it wasn't even included.


I'll call customer care tomorrow. Thanks for the number.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Just FYI, I've always had commercial type carpet in my rooms. I like the low-pile look/feel of it for this space. Its not something you want to lay on, but my rooms never have any room for that anyway







.


----------



## tabraun




> Quote:
> Here are the stairs. Notice the stained handrail.




Bud,



Your hand rail is on the wrong side.











I've been working thru your whole thread for the last 2 weeks (I'm sorry I've caught up -- but glad to see you are so close). I've learned a lot -- and I thank you for the effort. If I've learned anything from your thread -- it is the amount of planning required for a room such as yours. I have a 14" x 22" room -- finished by the previous owner -- and obviously so. Dry wall seams look like crap, cans are crooked, wall sockets have exposed gaps -- whole basement is on one breaker. Ugh -- remodeling in many ways is worse than starting from scratch. But I've started the planning -- inspired immensely by your thread.


Will you be using "butt-kickers"? w-w-w(dot)s-m-a-r-t-h-o-m-e(dot)c-o-m/8-2-5-7-2(dot)h-t-m-l


I wonder if one pair could be installed for a whole row?


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud -


I guess I'm thinking that when it is pulled around the radius that it will make it look like someone's head when they've had hair plugs. From what I've seen of it at HD and elsewhere the commercial stuff seems denser and more resilient to wearing out. My mindset on this room is install the carpet once and never again. I dunno...


Kevin -


----------



## documentarymaker

Maybe Bud's a Lefty!!


----------



## David Ferguson

It's on the right side when going up the stairs


----------



## documentarymaker









Which is worse -


Falling UP stairs or falling DOWN?


----------



## documentarymaker

After the day that Bud has had he's liable to drive over here and start handing out ass-whippins' if I keep teasin' him about that hand-rail...


Hang in there Bud - Dont let the Big Orange keep you down!!


Kevin -


----------



## BritInVA

Hopefully I can find some decent British beer in Atlanta when I pay him a visit tomorrow







hopefully that will cheer him up


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tabraun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> 
> Your hand rail is on the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been working thru your whole thread for the last 2 weeks (I'm sorry I've caught up -- but glad to see you are so close). I've learned a lot -- and I thank you for the effort. If I've learned anything from your thread -- it is the amount of planning required for a room such as yours. I have a 14" x 22" room -- finished by the previous owner -- and obviously so. Dry wall seams look like crap, cans are crooked, wall sockets have exposed gaps -- whole basement is on one breaker. Ugh -- remodeling in many ways is worse than starting from scratch. But I've started the planning -- inspired immensely by your thread.
> 
> 
> Will you be using "butt-kickers"? w-w-w(dot)s-m-a-r-t-h-o-m-e(dot)c-o-m/8-2-5-7-2(dot)h-t-m-l
> 
> 
> I wonder if one pair could be installed for a whole row?




tabraun,


Thanks for the kind words and post. Good luck with your adventure. I'm glad its been helpful. First post, huh? Well, welcome to the addiction.


On to the other items....










I put the handrail back where it was. Didn't think too much about the side actually. I'm used to it! At least I didn't have to figure out the position. I actually used the same holes, except where the screws didn't go into anything but drywall. Those holes I used the 50 lb wall anchors that twist into place, then the screws go into those. I painted over them with the wall color, since you may be able to see a fraction of them behind the bracket, but boy is that rail solid.


I have Aura shakers. I think I have 8 of them. I bought them a while back, but may only use four of them if at all. I did run wires for them, if you look at the riser, the box in the front left is for shakers, while the one directly behind it on the back wall is another set. I ran two pairs of speaker wire to each. If I use them, I'll run a pair to each row. I think that'll be enough for me. If you want more shaking, you want one per set (of the Auras). Buttkickers have more umph to them, people actually install them in the riser itself. So the answer is it depends. I picked up my Auras from PartsExpress.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *documentarymaker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud -
> 
> 
> I guess I'm thinking that when it is pulled around the radius that it will make it look like someone's head when they've had hair plugs. From what I've seen of it at HD and elsewhere the commercial stuff seems denser and more resilient to wearing out. My mindset on this room is install the carpet once and never again. I dunno...
> 
> 
> Kevin -



Kevin,


Good visual. Maybe thats a good thing for us "hair challenged" guys. My radius is pretty gradual and when/if the carpet gets installed, I'll post some pictures. The black carpet I picked was pretty plush, so I've got my fingers (and plugs) crossed.


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hopefully I can find some decent British beer in Atlanta when I pay him a visit tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully that will cheer him up



You mean decent Irish beer? Ala Guinness don't you










Drew


----------



## r00ster

Hey Bud, just thought I would let you know I just received my Panny 900 tonight. I am like a kid in a candy store. I will fire it up to check for problems then I will test my location for it in the theater. Then it will be back in the box for a while.


Good news is I am starting on the drywall in 13 days. Good choice on your chairs BTW. Same layout and style I decided to go with do to the room constraints.


I also got a old Guinness sign I think you might be envious of:











Drew


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You mean decent Irish beer? Ala Guinness don't you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drew



There are some great British beers too (just difficult to finf here) but must admit I'm partial to the Irishs beers, my tipple used to be Caffreys.......the Guiness outside Ireland isn't the same so I tend not to drink that.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *documentarymaker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hang in there Bud - Dont let the Big Orange keep you down!!



Got a message from Orange that said the earliest they could get someone out to measure again was Friday.










.

.

.

.

.

1....2....3....4....5...6...7...8...9...10


OK, I'm calm now.


Lets see. Friday they measure, then enter it into the system on Friday (best case), the flooring "calculators" in TX see it on Monday.... they don't understand what a stage is for and mess up the calculations again (7th time now, including today) and I have to go back on Tuesday to explain it again (6th time)... I can't get on the schedule for the installers for two weeks, so I'm looking at three more weeks before they install a 3x12 piece of carpet and a 6x12 piece of carpet? Oh and with my luck I'll be on vacation when they want to install it. That would be 6-7 weeks to complete a carpet install? That was best case. Something wrong here?


So I call back the flooring department manager and he's gone for the day. Ever see a 6'4", 250+ lb bald guy get mad?







These guys are lucky I just go back from the airport, otherwise I would have hightailed it down there.



.

.

.

.

.

1....2....3....4....5...6...7...8...9...10


So I call back and ask for the store manager that was suppose to call me back today and didn't. I think he finally got the feeling I wasn't going to go away very easily. So I explain the measurement issue and explained that why would I want to wait for anther bad measurement? Why couldn't I just give the measurements to the dept manager myself? "Well, its not the process, but I think we can do that in this case"... But the process IS the problem....


So I want the dept managers schedule and he's not in until 4:00 PM tomorrow. So I said I have the measurements, can someone take them tonight so the carpet can get it ordered and scheduled tomorrow? He tells me he's going to transfer me to Eileen in carpeting, who I already spoke to. He says he's going to walk over to flooring and talk to her. She answers the phone and says she's with a customer! I said "Jim's on his way to speak with you", so sure enough there he is. He takes my measurements and adds a foot to the widths and says they'll order it and confirm it with me tomorrow... He said they'll probably have to send someone to measure anyway because thats how the system works... Geez, please don't send the same guy, I'll sick the dogs on him.


So looks like I'll be on the phone again with them tomorrow. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hopefully I can find some decent British beer in Atlanta when I pay him a visit tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully that will cheer him up



If you're serious about British beer, try Sherlocks (actually, may be called Minks - I get the two confused) on Delk road (two exits up from 285 on 75N). Head west on Delk (two off ramps, stay to the right) and on the left about half a mile is a large liquor store. Easy on, easy off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, just thought I would let you know I just received my Panny 900 tonight. I am like a kid in a candy store. I will fire it up to check for problems then I will test my location for it in the theater. Then it will be back in the box for a while.
> 
> 
> Good news is I am starting on the drywall in 13 days. Good choice on your chairs BTW. Same layout and style I decided to go with do to the room constraints.
> 
> 
> I also got a old Guinness sign I think you might be envious of:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drew



Drew, good deal on the 900. You'll enjoy it. Not sure if you have a high definition provider, but if you do, check out some HDTV before you box it. Love to watch some of the baseball games on INHD in 1080i. That'll be enough to get you motivated.


Good luck with the drywall. You'll be done before you know it.


If you haven't ordered, send Ben a PM or email and get a quote from him....


OH, and I've seen the sign, I'll have to add that to my sign order when I'm ready to buy.


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are some great British beers too (just difficult to finf here) but must admit I'm partial to the Irishs beers, my tipple used to be Caffreys.......the Guiness outside Ireland isn't the same so I tend not to drink that.




You are 100% right about that. That is probably why I keep going back to the old country










Drew


----------



## jerrodshook

BUd,


It's looking good man! I'm scared about the HD carpet deal. My wife and I found a great carpet we love at HD over the weekend/ It's not for the HT, but is for the rest of the basement. I don't want to go thru one of those experiences....


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got a message from Orange that said the earliest they could get someone out to measure again was Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... ..... ..... ..... .....
> 
> 
> So looks like I'll be on the phone again with them tomorrow. Stay tuned.
> 
> 
> Bud



There is no way I would buy carpet from Big Orange. We tried it because they were having a special a "Free measure". BUt they could never get the schedule correct.


Instead we went too two local companies. One came out with in the hour and measured. The other made an appointment and showed early with samples in hand. That is the way to do business.


We bought from the second guy. Belive it or not no upfront money, on money on install, he sends you a bill in the mail that you pay with in 30 days.


----------



## chinadog

Sure ... now you tell me!


Actually, I thought I was being smart and doing the whole basement at once with the 12 month deal they had. I may be kicking myself for the next twelve months!


Bud


----------



## tabraun




> Quote:
> tabraun,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the kind words and post. Good luck with your adventure. I'm glad its been helpful. First post, huh? Well, welcome to the addiction.



Hmmmm -- aparently I've been lurking for years -- I was a bit suprised to see that was my first post. I guess there's just so much to absorb -- and until I actually started my own theater -- not much experience to draw on to contribute.


Another question -- did you ever consider a DIY screen? The DIY screen'ers are a pretty active bunch trying different paint combinations, materials, etc.


----------



## chinadog

tabraun,


Sure did. I actually used some ceilign paint on the wall for a while. Once I knew I was going to do a false wall to hide the speakers, I wanted something to hang. The Carada is a great screen for the money. It's not nearly as expensive as the some of the others, but does the trick.


I saved a lot of money doing all the work myself, so spending a few bucks where it makes sense is OK with me.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I'll bet this has been answered before but I might have missed it...


I know in your housing around your projector, you have a small thermostat that turns on an exhaust fan in the attic to pull out heat. However, are you pumping any cool air directly into the box or is all cooling flowing in naturally from the room?


I'm asking because I may be putting my projector against the rear wall and hiding it in a box. I was considering leaving the top open for easy access and airflow. Top access is an option since I have 10' ceilings and the bottom of the projector will be at about 6'6". However, if I seal it up more making a Hushbox, I could reduce noise a bit more at the same time. Still deciding.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Nope, no cold air. How would you control cold air just to the box without having a dedicated system just for that? Unless you pump cold air into the whole room. Keep in mind that the purpose of my box was just to hide the projector, bit really "hush" it. I added the inline exhaust fan and switch to control it just in case, but the box is pretty vented. The back has a Middle Atlantic, 19 inch vent on the back. The bottom is almost completely cut out, it's just covered with GOM, so it'll allow air through that as well.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


I'm taking your advice and getting in touch with Ben about some Berklines!

I got a side job drawing a house in CAD for a guy building in the mountains, and managed to sock some money away!!

Thanks for the tip!! Now we have to get the purchase throught the finance commitee, because we all know it's "our money"...


Sean


----------



## ifeliciano




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got a message from Orange that said the earliest they could get someone out to measure again was Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud





Screw Orange. You might save a few bucks, but the aggravation with service cancels that.


Support your local small business owner !!


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Nope, no cold air. How would you control cold air just to the box without having a dedicated system just for that? Unless you pump cold air into the whole room. Keep in mind that the purpose of my box was just to hide the projector, bit really "hush" it. I added the inline exhaust fan and switch to control it just in case, but the box is pretty vented. The back has a Middle Atlantic, 19 inch vent on the back. The bottom is almost completely cut out, it's just covered with GOM, so it'll allow air through that as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud. If I pumped air into it, I would have a damper on the A/C. That way I could close it in the winter and open it in the summer. Here is Texas, the A/C is switched to cool about 80% of the time anyway. I may just leave the top open for easy access to the projector and good ventilation. I plan to put some sound absorbent foam around the parameter to keep the noise down a bit. The "box" will be pretty wide so the foam will be far enough away from the projector to allow it to breath.


Thanks again!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I'm taking your advice and getting in touch with Ben about some Berklines!
> 
> I got a side job drawing a house in CAD for a guy building in the mountains, and managed to sock some money away!!
> 
> Thanks for the tip!! Now we have to get the purchase throught the finance commitee, because we all know it's "our money"...
> 
> 
> Sean



Sean,


Great. Don't forget to tell him that I sent you, although he's probably lurking anyway! Have any idea what types of Berks you're looking for?


I told my wife I bought her home theater seats for our anniversary (15 years on June 8) and she said, "No, I bought YOU home theater seats!". So I can relate...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ifeliciano* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Screw Orange. You might save a few bucks, but the aggravation with service cancels that.
> 
> 
> Support your local small business owner !!



I hear ya. Lessons learned ...


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sean,
> 
> 
> Great. Don't forget to tell him that I sent you, although he's probably lurking anyway! Have any idea what types of Berks you're looking for?
> 
> 
> I told my wife I bought her home theater seats for our anniversary (15 years on June 8) and she said, "No, I bought YOU home theater seats!". So I can relate...
> 
> 
> Bud




Sean, Bud, yeah I just got my PJ and my wife said happy anniversary (10 years in June). So I can also relate. Did not even bother with the "but honey it is for both of us" route.....


Drew


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud. If I pumped air into it, I would have a damper on the A/C. That way I could close it in the winter and open it in the summer. Here is Texas, the A/C is switched to cool about 80% of the time anyway. I may just leave the top open for easy access to the projector and good ventilation. I plan to put some sound absorbent foam around the parameter to keep the noise down a bit. The "box" will be pretty wide so the foam will be far enough away from the projector to allow it to breath.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Gotcha. I know you were thinking about the IN76, have you heard it yet to determine if you need a box? Also, what sort of temperature control will you use to control the damper? I had a zone that was split in my old house with dampers, had a separate programmable thermostat and some other circuitry required. I'm not sure an attic fan switch will work. Any thoughts on that?


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

WOW, our 1st anniversary is June 6th. Looks like there will be a few of us busy getting the right gift or perfect night.... corse after 10 or 15 years you guys might have an "understanding" with the wives

















Sean


----------



## larryep

WOO..SA WOO..SA WOO..SA Bud.

I am going with the carpet companies around town. The big orange and lowes are over there heads when it comes to this finishing touch of laying carpet and sales satisfaction. It's like running 90 yards down the field and laterally passing off to the carpet measurers/carpet layers only finding out that they forgot there shoes to help get it in the end zone.










hang in there Bud.

crank up the projector and let the time roll by, and trust me it will!

Larryep


----------



## chinadog

I will say that the people in the flooring department have been wonderful and I told the store manager that. It's when you have too many people involved, you have to add extra control and process in order to complete things. Usually wacky decisions like involving a measurement calculation/final sale team out of a remote location are made for a couple of reasons. First, somehow it supposedly cuts costs. Either it allows the flooring staff to focus on the customers, speeds up time, centralizes sales, inventory control, something like that. It could be a marketing/sales thing... maybe have the quote ready for the customer by phone and suggest additional product like floor cleaner, vacuum, or extended warranty or something like that. Generate more revenue by a team trained to do so rather than a person that knows a Frieze from a Berber. OR some software company sold them on the technology with false promises, faster turnaround, less mistakes.


Regardless, the decision wasn't made for better customer service or satisfaction. Some executive made the decision for one of the reasons above to either reduce expense or increase sales. Why? Bonus and stock options, baby. You hit your target, you get the cash. Sounds like a alot of companies/executives these days. Think about all the outsourcing these days.


Bitter? You bet!


Bud


----------



## swithey

HD is definitely off the list for my carpet purchase. I'll be going with a local store now. Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## jandawil

I'm a huge Lowes fan and spent a LOT of $$ there happily, but they did not fair better when it came to carpet. Bid came in way over initial store rough estimate. They really tried to tack on every little extra charge they could. It was more the installer than Lowes though. Local carpet dealers seem to be the best bet. Luckily I found a huge commercial remnant for a steal at


----------



## nebrunner

I feel your pain my friend. When the HD installers ruined all the woodwork, I was livid. My wife came home and she said to me "honey are you ok?" and I said "yes, why?" and she told me that she was worried about me because she could see a vein throbbing in my temple and she thought I was going to have a stroke.


I am normally a meek guy but one thing that I really hate is incompetence, and when that incompetence is right there in your home destroying your stuff, thats just too much. Then add on all the run around that the HD managers give you with the ... "we will have the manager call you back tomorrow" and then he doesnt so you call back and they say "the manager is out today but should be back in next Tuesday"...etc.


They strung me along for weeks, I hope you get everything taken care of much sooner.


----------



## mrpergo

Bud hopefully they can get the same dye lot that you have other wise you need to replace all of it. I've seen dye lots run night and day. If its not the same run the shade difference could make it look like a completely different carpet.

Just make sure they ordered the same dye lot and you'll be fine. I would check with them though, before you get anymore surprises on the day of the install when the carpet doesn't match.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a huge Lowes fan and spent a LOT of $$ there happily, but they did not fair better when it came to carpet. Bid came in way over initial store rough estimate. They really tried to tack on every little extra charge they could. It was more the installer than Lowes though. Local carpet dealers seem to be the best bet. Luckily I found a huge commercial remnant for a steal at


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nebrunner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I feel your pain my friend. When the HD installers ruined all the woodwork, I was livid. My wife came home and she said to me "honey are you ok?" and I said "yes, why?" and she told me that she was worried about me because she could see a vein throbbing in my temple and she thought I was going to have a stroke.
> 
> 
> I am normally a meek guy but one thing that I really hate is incompetence, and when that incompetence is right there in your home destroying your stuff, thats just too much. Then add on all the run around that the HD managers give you with the ... "we will have the manager call you back tomorrow" and then he doesnt so you call back and they say "the manager is out today but should be back in next Tuesday"...etc.
> 
> 
> They strung me along for weeks, I hope you get everything taken care of much sooner.



Were you there when it happened? I was here and was down there quite a bit. I explained about the fabric and the woodwork and that they really needed to be careful. I asked a lot of questions and the guys were very helpful. They go the job done and well. That's all that matters to me is they meet your expectation.


I went through your photos and I feel for you. I personally would have kicked them out of my house and went directly after the manager of the installer and HD store manager. Forget dealing with the floor people. I'm only 6 miles from the HD I bought from and been there in no time if what happened to you, happened to me. I got a few "we'll call you back" comments and I just kept calling until I got to the store manager. He even told me he'd call back yesterday and I ended up calling him back directly. I even called "Eileen" twice today, so now she knows me by name.


It'll get straightened out. I can be a real pain in the ass when I want to be.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud hopefully they can get the same dye lot that you have other wise you need to replace all of it. I've seen dye lots run night and day. If its not the same run the shade difference could make it look like a completely different carpet.
> 
> Just make sure they ordered the same dye lot and you'll be fine. I would check with them though, before you get anymore surprises on the day of the install when the carpet doesn't match.



That's obviously a concern of mine and they say they'll make it right. Fortunately the two piece won't actually touch, so if they're pretty close, I should be OK. I already told Jim (store manager) if they couldn't match it it was coming out and replace at their expense. He agreed they would make it right.


I spoke to Eileen about 8:30 and she said it was not the same dye lot, the next one up. Again, we'll see. If its not right, its unacceptable. Period. Eileen said that they were hand carrying the piece of carpet from the mill to the installers place tomorrow. They will expedite the delivery and will work around the schedule of the installers to correct the problem. BTW, they never even measure the piece for the riser and it was never paid for. The store is now paying for that as well, they're going to eat the additional costs for the extra carpet and installation. I also requested they get the same installers and they'd work to get that done.


A lot of promises. Lets see what happens. I'll be calling them again tomorrow, maybe even returning a few items, so I might just stop by the flooring department.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


You're on those HD guys like a dog!! I think I understand your user name now!

















Sean


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nebrunner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I feel your pain my friend. When the HD installers ruined all the woodwork, I was livid. My wife came home and she said to me "honey are you ok?" and I said "yes, why?" and she told me that she was worried about me because she could see a vein throbbing in my temple and she thought I was going to have a stroke.
> 
> 
> I am normally a meek guy but one thing that I really hate is incompetence, and when that incompetence is right there in your home destroying your stuff, thats just too much. Then add on all the run around that the HD managers give you with the ... "we will have the manager call you back tomorrow" and then he doesnt so you call back and they say "the manager is out today but should be back in next Tuesday"...etc.
> 
> 
> They strung me along for weeks, I hope you get everything taken care of much sooner.



I love that "The manager is out today stuff." That's when you drive to the store and find the manager on site. Then you ask him why people are lying for him on the phone and why can't he fix your problem in a loud voice so that other customers can hear. You'll be amazed at how fast a company can/will move when you can give prospective customers a bad feeling. I'm not a confrontational type of person, but at 6'3 and 300lbs I'm no pushover either. Also, there are very few retail stores on the planet that operate without at least an acting manager, even if that person is just the assistant manager or some other higher level employee working in the manager's place while he's out. The ones that don't are usually small retail stores. I know for a fact that HD has an acting manager on duty at all times, so never take "The manager is out today" as an answer.


When the department manager won't call, you go to the store manager.

When the store manager won't call, you call the district manager.

When the district manager won't call, you call the regional manager.

When the regional manager won't call, you call Corporate HQ.


That's pretty much how it works in all retail, and if you can't get satisfaction that way, then you may have no recourse other than legal.


Did you ever get your problems with the wood/trim damage resolved?


Joseph


----------



## chinadog

Joseph,


I hear you. It's sad the hoops you have to go through. I'm not confrontational either, per se, but I've always been the type to speak my mind and tell you how I feel. I tend not to beat around the bush. It is what it is. What gets me worked up are these exact situations. Incompetence, laziness, brushing things off and not taking responsibility. Especially if its an underdog getting bullied. I hate that. When I get a bee in my bonnet, I'll take a bite and hang on like a pitbull. I'll escalate, make phone calls, letters, find contacts, etc. whatever is required to fix the problem.


I think you're referring to the imperfection in the door (picture posted a while back)? I held off on it. It's actually gone down some and if not noticeable unless you know exactly where to look for it. It's on the back of a door (in the concession area), so unless you're in there with the door closed and know where to look, you won't see it. The picture makes it looks larger than it is (was). Plus, I'm done with staining. I don't want to go through that again in the near future. Plus it was a prehung door and I'm not sure the hinges would line up and I'm not about to pull off all the trim and the jamb. I'll live with that. My time is not worth the defect.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> You're on those HD guys like a dog!! I think I understand your user name now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sean



And my bite is mighter than my bark!










Bud


----------



## nebrunner

Bud I was in the house while they were installing, but I was not standing over them watching their work. For one thing, I didn't want to bug them, and for another, I figured they are the experts, what do I know about carpet installation?


It was not until right after they left that I discovered all of the damages.


Profloor and Home Depot both refused to pay for the damage. ProFloor said it wasn't their fault, because the team that did the damage was actually not their employees. They said that they were full up on jobs that week and they farmed my job out to a independant team.


Home Depot just flatly refused to do anything, and why should they? They are a multi-billion dollar company, they don't need to worry themselves about the little guy.


I wound up taking Home Depot to the Douglas County Small Claims Court and won a $1600 settlement. The store manager showed up to defend the case. The judge asked me to show my evidence and I handed him a folder with all of those photos (but much higher quality). Then the judge asked the HD manager for his defense and he had nothing. HD paid me the settlement within a week.


All's well that ends well I guess, but I think the stress with the damage, the run around the store and the managers gave me, the general disrespect of my belongings and my business, and all the work gathering a case and documents and presenting them in court, all of that probably took 10 years off my life.


I wish I had originally gone with a small local carpet store that does its own work with its own teams, and in the future that is exactly what I will do!


----------



## chinadog

Glad you got at least some cash out of it. That really sucks. They got into installation services to make money and sell more product. You figure they'd own up to it.


I used HD when I did the last basement and that worked out well. The installers also did a good job, except for some touch ups for paint, I was good to go. I felt pretty comfortable in about the situation, but that was before the new process. Even the people in the flooring department and the store manager said the process is a problem. Internal fighting, problems, etc. I heard it directly from the people working the floor. One guy told me that he actually started warning customers of the process before they purchased. Amazing.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Just wanted to post after my visit to Buds last night
























Still in awe at the quality of workmanship that Bud has put into his HT. The GOM with bevelled edge looks even better in person - if thats at all possible










I'm now hard set on the Ascends for my fronts, I'm no audiophile but the clarity of the sound was very evident (I won't mention the playlist but my wife would have been VERY happy







)......I've also been sworn to secrecy on Buds other previous speaker purchases - but hey he was a lot younger then (so he say's)










Had a great time - although Bud's wife was a little unsure of inviting someone you only know from the Internet - but hopefully I didn't spoil it for others.


Bud - hope you enjoyed the English beer (and the Irish).


Looking forward to seeing the completed HT but be sure you stay around after completion as us novices need your real life DIY experience.


Hopefully you can get a trip up to NoVA in future as I'm sure there are plenty of us that will happily show you around 'our' hopefully soon to be completed HT (except of course Jeff who will I'm sure be tweaking for decades to come)


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Very happy to accommodate. Glad you were able to work it out. The wife has always been a little leary if people I invite over, she must think that people that have anything in common with me must be just as wacked, I suppose. Once I've "opened the bar", I'll talk her into a HT meet!


Thanks again for the brew. I'll definitely enjoy it, I'm sure it won't go to waste and it'll be gone by the end of the weekend, you can count on that.


Let me know when you're in town again, we can throw some more steaks on the grill!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


BTW, the sub is the Hsu VTF-2 MK2. Info can be found here. I figured you might want to take a look at the specs. Ascend recommends Hsu with their speakers.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Measurement guy called this morning and said he'd be out between 9-11. I told him to forget it, that wasn't going to work. Plan on calling Orange again this morning.


MY trim/baffles came for the rest of the basement. I have about half a second coat on the ceiling to do then I'll get to those shortly. Hasn't been a real productive few days here. Going to wrap the ceiling up and get the crown (1st coat) done tonight so I can put the second coat on the trim and the first coat of wall paint on tomorrow. If I can stick to that plan, I should be able to start the flooring on Sunday.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

The Ascends certainly are great speaker! I can't wait till I have all 7 of mine hooked at once!


Bud, you just need to make sure you don't accidentally hit the beer, knocki it off a ladder or something and spill it everywhere like that paint! Beer is more important, so I'm sure you'll be careful.


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


I usually wear one of the beer helmets when I work, just for that very reason. A little industrial velcro and it stays on my head quite nicely.







Although the pints of Tetley beer and the Guiness cans that Mark brought over make it a little top heavy.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

No thats not me...










Geez, you guys don't laugh at my Chicken Foot Soup jokes and my beer helmet jokes. Hmmm.... You guys must be sniffing green glue or something.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I just finished the second coats on the ceiling, all the crown and the base molding. Tomorrow morning I'll clean up a little, tape the molding and start painting the 1st coat on the walls in the gameroom and bar.


That moves flooring to Sunday. No news from HD today, except Eileen was out. Will call her tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Cabinets for the bar and concession area!


I got the quote back from my neighbor and the same layout (different cabinet manufacturers) for the bar and concession area is 2K+ plus LESS than HD. Imagine that. They're price included installation as well. HD's didn't. So looks like I need to pick the finish on Tuesday and double check a few things, then get it ordered. It takes about three weeks I'm told.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Bud, just sent you a PM I think you may find interesting. It has to do with your bar....


Drew


----------



## miltimj

When we were looking for cabinets, the difference in cost between HD and the local home store (larger, but focused on floor treatments and cabinets) was quite a bit... HD was a couple grand more, and was easily worse service. I guess it's a trend with them in that area of their business.


I'm going to stay away from any of their subcontractors, based on these horror stories. (Plus I like to DIY more anyway..







)


Oh, and it took three weeks for mine as well. I ended up installing them myself -- wasn't difficult at all.. just needed some help lifting the wall cabinets in place due to their weight.


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


Just finished reading you entire thread. Damn you have been a busy man. Outstanding job so far. Keep up the damn fine work.


John


----------



## chinadog

Tim, I had planned to install the other ones from HD, but for 2K less installed, no thanks. They can do it. I'm getting a little fried!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *John Martin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Just finished reading you entire thread. Damn you have been a busy man. Outstanding job so far. Keep up the damn fine work.
> 
> 
> John



John,


Apparently you have too! Must have taken you a while. Thanks for the response and welcome to the forum.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I spent most of yesterday and half of Friday (up working until 1:00 AM) finishing up trim and painting. Here's were I left it last night.



























Still need to paint the doors and sashes and do some touchup.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got a good chunk of the floor done today. Tomorrow I'l do the bar area, finish the bottom of the stairs and do the concession area. The floor wore me out.



























Bud


----------



## chriswrx

Wow !

Thats gonna be a really nice looking space Bud. Great job! I like the colors/flooring choice. Fantastic.


----------



## HeyNow^

Okay, Bud,


Fess up...you have a gang of laborers working for you...you are absolutely amazing at the energy and outcomes of your efforts!


Randy.


----------



## chinadog

Chris and Randy,


Thanks guys!


My Dad came by today to help, he opened boxes and laid out the pieces close to where they needed to be installed. I did all the cutting and installation. I spent maybe 7 hours today working on it.


It took me all day to paint. I stopped for about two hours to bring the kids next store to go swimming at the neighbors, then worked a few hours after that. That's only one coat of paint. The SW paint covers really, really well. I did prime and that helped. I spend a few hours Friday afternoon and worked up until about 1:00 AM Friday night to finish up all the trim so it would be dry in the morning. I wanted to be able to tape it.


Anyway, I'm fried. heading to sleep. More pictures tomorrow afternoon.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - I cannot believe the change in such a short amount of time!


Putting me to shame.....spent Saturday and most of today with family. Got down to HT later this afternoon and got a fair bit of drywall done.....but nothing on your scale of activity.


Luckily my wife does not check out AVS or else I'll be in deep trouble










When I got back from Atlanta on Friday night had delivery of 4 boxes of Green Glue (all in tack) and my Star Ceiling Kit..... so lots too do.


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, Bud,
> 
> 
> Fess up...you have a gang of laborers working for you...you are absolutely amazing at the energy and outcomes of your efforts!
> 
> 
> Randy.




I agree. I think he is pulling a fast one on us. He has a team of guys doing all the work while he is out on the golf course.










Bud. You are a machine....... keep up the good work, its looking very nice.


Ronnie


----------



## jerrodshook

Looks good my man! Any worries about hardwood/laminate being against the concrete floor? Is it cold or fairly comfortable? I'm thinking of a laminate or tile in my bar area, but am worried about it being cold.


The color looks good. Close to what I'm going to use... so of course I have to like it!


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, that floor looks incredible. You are going to really enjoy that space. I know I have enjoyed just watching it come together. Thanks for all the in depth detail on everything you have done.


I am inspired. We are signing the contract on a new house this week, and will be moving in by the end of the year, then I can get ready to start on my own creation, inspired by alot of what I have seen here.


----------



## Ratfester

Just like everyone else says, looks amazing. How was the floor to put in? I was thinking of getting some of that from HD, and what color is that, looks great.


----------



## rsberg34

Been a little while since I have been able to check out your progress. LOOKS GREAT BUD....LOVE THE COLORS IN THE CONCESSION AREA. That flooring looks really good next to that wall color. You may have unknowingly chosen my colors for my basement....thanks


Im finally cought up on your thread...looks great Bud!!!


Robert


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I cannot believe the change in such a short amount of time!
> 
> 
> Putting me to shame.....spent Saturday and most of today with family. Got down to HT later this afternoon and got a fair bit of drywall done.....but nothing on your scale of activity.
> 
> 
> Luckily my wife does not check out AVS or else I'll be in deep trouble
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I got back from Atlanta on Friday night had delivery of 4 boxes of Green Glue (all in tack) and my Star Ceiling Kit..... so lots too do.



Glad you made it home OK and that your GG made it in one piece. I'm sure your anxious to get back at it ... I'm anxious to get it behind me!


Paint and flooring will always make a huge difference to a room. I'll be happy when today is over and the rest of the floor is done!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. I think he is pulling a fast one on us. He has a team of guys doing all the work while he is out on the golf course.



OK, I confess. I'm a guest here at the State of GA Department of Mental health. For good behavior, I was allowed to use the computer and taught myself PhotoShop. The whole basement endeavor is an elaborate PhotoShop hoax. I managed to use AVS member photos and alter them to create the illusion that I actually have a basement with a home theater and gameroom. The whole build and basement is a farce. The Joke is on you guys.










Actually, I may need to be locked up after all this work after all.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks good my man! Any worries about hardwood/laminate being against the concrete floor? Is it cold or fairly comfortable? I'm thinking of a laminate or tile in my bar area, but am worried about it being cold.
> 
> 
> The color looks good. Close to what I'm going to use... so of course I have to like it!



Jerrod,


No worries. The laminate is installed on 6 mil plastic (per the install instructions for warranty purposes). The flooring has the preinstalled foam backing on it, so it has some cushion to it. I have a slate laminate for the bar area, I'll post some shots when I finish it up. I was going to tile, but its such a small place. The slate tile interlock with the laminate, but I'll transition it in case I ever decide to go tile later. The tile will be colder than the laminate, although not too much of a difference.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, that floor looks incredible. You are going to really enjoy that space. I know I have enjoyed just watching it come together. Thanks for all the in depth detail on everything you have done.
> 
> 
> I am inspired. We are signing the contract on a new house this week, and will be moving in by the end of the year, then I can get ready to start on my own creation, inspired by alot of what I have seen here.



Thanks Michael. I think we will enjoy it. Keep us posted on your progress when you start!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratfester* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just like everyone else says, looks amazing. How was the floor to put in? I was thinking of getting some of that from HD, and what color is that, looks great.



The floor uses a glueless locking system ( http://www.flooring.dupont.com/en/install/install.shtml ) and the floor is installed over 6 mil plastic. The seams are very hidden, you have to really look for them once they're in place. I found that you have to get used to the locking system and how the pieces come together. The first row or two was the hardest because the whole row would move a little, causing the other pieces to pull apart some. Once I got through the first few rows and got the system down, it wasn't bad. Took a little strength sometimes getting the seams perfect, but thats just some grunt work.


One word of of advice (Jerrod, you too). If you decide on laminate, don't put the base and case molding on until AFTER you install the floor. I installed my molding so I could spray it all while it was on the walls, which as it turns out later, I decided against it and painted it by hand. Becuase you're dealing with 1x4 pieces of laminate, its a lot tougher to tile and snap a piece in place when you're banging againest a piece a piece of casing around the bottom of a door.


The wood laminate is Merbau Block and the slate tile for the bar is called Black Slate 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Been a little while since I have been able to check out your progress. LOOKS GREAT BUD....LOVE THE COLORS IN THE CONCESSION AREA. That flooring looks really good next to that wall color. You may have unknowingly chosen my colors for my basement....thanks
> 
> 
> Im finally cought up on your thread...looks great Bud!!!
> 
> 
> Robert



Robert,


Thanks man. Flooring info is above and the color in the game room/bar area is Sherwin-Willaims "Reserved Gold #6129". The concession area is a shade lighter on the multi-color swatch, its called "Blonde 6128".


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

I think I'm going to look into this stuff a bit more. Do you have any pics of the bottom of the laminate and some in-progress installation? I'd just like to see a bit more instead of having to drive to the Big Orange.


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Keep up the great work. I can only hope my game room and HT turn out as nicely as yours. Especially impressive since you've done so much of the work yourself.


For anyone concerned about floor warmth, we have tile in our master bath. I installed an electric floor heating mat from this site . It was very easy to install and is very efficient. They have products for use under tile, laminate or carpet. The product comes with a programmable thermostat, and uses about the same amount of electricity as a single 100W light bulb. The area I'm heating is about 15 x 12. Huge WAF!


----------



## sdspga

Bud,


As the father of 3 kids, I don't see how you can get so much done in a day! That floor is simply awesome. The basement project looks like the perfect extension of the rest of you fine home (viewed from the outside theater pics). Congrats on a great job. Unlike you I'm sure, I will be sorry to see the project finished.


New thread idea:


Things to do during time I used to catch up on the Blazing Ridge Cinema construction thread.










I am sure there would be lots of contributors


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to look into this stuff a bit more. Do you have any pics of the bottom of the laminate and some in-progress installation? I'd just like to see a bit more instead of having to drive to the Big Orange.



I don't have any in progress stuff, but will take a picture of the back side and use a demo piece to give you and idea. Having the trim in forces you to figure out how to snap pieces into place and slide them under casing, that sort of thing. I wish I had done the trim later, but its pretty much over at this point. It did kick my butt.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Keep up the great work. I can only hope my game room and HT turn out as nicely as yours. Especially impressive since you've done so much of the work yourself.
> 
> 
> For anyone concerned about floor warmth, we have tile in our master bath. I installed an electric floor heating mat from this site . It was very easy to install and is very efficient. They have products for use under tile, laminate or carpet. The product comes with a programmable thermostat, and uses about the same amount of electricity as a single 100W light bulb. The area I'm heating is about 15 x 12. Huge WAF!



Dave,


Thanks man. I tried to get my builder to use the under tile warming system, but he wouldn't go for it. It is a huge WAF. We're lucky we live in the south where its not a huge deal. I bought her a towel warmer instead. Another big WAF!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> As the father of 3 kids, I don't see how you can get so much done in a day! That floor is simply awesome. The basement project looks like the perfect extension of the rest of you fine home (viewed from the outside theater pics). Congrats on a great job. Unlike you I'm sure, I will be sorry to see the project finished.



Scott,


Thanks!


It ain't as easy as it looks/seems. My wife had a sinus infection the other night and took some medicine and was out by 7:00 PM. So I did the dinner thing and got the kids to bed, then headed down and painted. She was at the doctor most of Saturday, so the kids ended up in the movie room during the day when I painted elsewhere. Then to the neighbors pool, then kids to bed, then back to painting. Saturday the wife took care of the kids, as she did today. She knows I'm so close and want to wrap it up. Next week I'll grout the bathroom and finish the closet and bar (did not get to them today). I'm thinking about calling the plumber to finish out the bathroom just so I don't have to wait another weekend.....


I still have cabinets, countertops, etc. The major labor provided by me is done though. Don't forget the light boxes and probably a ticket both.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, here's what the crew did today (er, me and my Dad). We finished the area at the bottom of the steps and in front of the bathroom. Harder than I thought. Lots of cuts for notches, corners, casing, etc. We didn't get to the bar area and the closet behind the bar. Next weekend. I have to grout and finish that out. I also need to get some shoe mold to paint and stain.


I also installed the rack and put in the equipment. I temporarily hooked everything up to make sure it was working. I installed some plates today (buttkicker plate and outlet plate on the riser).


I have SOOOOOO much trash now. Need to get it to the curb in the morning. I have 7 boxes of flooring to return as well as a bunch of tile. I'll do that on the way back from the cabinet selection trip.


I have to admit, I' pretty tired. My hands are sore, my knees are cut up and my forearms got pinched (between sections of floor) a few times installing the floor. My knees are always sore anyway, so being on them most of the day didn't help.


So here we go....


Area in front of the theater room at the bottom of the stairs. The hard part is thinking ahead and getting the floor continuous between rooms without a transition. No easy task (especially with molding in place).










Area in front of bathroom. Perfect transition to the marble threshold. Same height. That was a relief it worked out as well as it did,










Concession area. I did the equipment closet as well without having to use a transition. A little trickier, since we're dealing with stained wood. In other words, no caulking and painting.










Rack installed with equipment in. Need to trim this out (wasn't sure if I go with the rest of the stain or paint it black). Anyway, I need to get some drawers and some blanks to fill out the bottom of the rack. Bottom of the rack is just a little dusty (drywall dust).










Bud


----------



## Milt99

Bud,

you are the man.

Beautiful, tasteful work.

You deserve some R&R...

or Maker's Mark or Knob Creek or Jack.

Lubricate those knees son.


----------



## bpape

Nicely done Bud. It's really coming together and looking very nice. Take a day and lick your wounds. I know the end is in sight but sometimes you just gotta take a day.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> you are the man.
> 
> Beautiful, tasteful work.
> 
> You deserve some R&R...
> 
> or Maker's Mark or Knob Creek or Jack.
> 
> Lubricate those knees son.



Thanks Milt. I lubricated the knees with the rest of the beer Mark (BritinVA) brought last week!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bpape* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nicely done Bud. It's really coming together and looking very nice. Take a day and lick your wounds. I know the end is in sight but sometimes you just gotta take a day.



Thanks Bryan. I know what you mean. I'll be taking it easy this week, I have to catch up on some work and let the body heal some. I've got some vacation coming up, looking forward to doing NOTHING!


Bud


----------



## bpape

Doing nothing on vacation - what a concept. Maybe I'll try that on my wife - nah - not much point I guess


----------



## CPat

Hi Bud -


I am new to thread. Your work is inspiring. I have just begun reading your post and have made it through page 7 as I often get sidetracked on links. I am just in the planning stages of my basement and will most likely borrow a few ideas from yours. Thank you for your time commitment to keeping the thread updated. Once I begin I will also try and start a construction thread. Good luck in finishing soon.


Chris


----------



## Todd Lee

Hey Bud,


I've been following the progress for a few weeks now, nice work indeed! Thanks for the photo updates, and all the small, detailed information you've provided. It'll sure make it easier on those of us that are planning projects down the road!


Todd


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CPat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud -
> 
> 
> I am new to thread. Your work is inspiring. I have just begun reading your post and have made it through page 7 as I often get sidetracked on links. I am just in the planning stages of my basement and will most likely borrow a few ideas from yours. Thank you for your time commitment to keeping the thread updated. Once I begin I will also try and start a construction thread. Good luck in finishing soon.
> 
> 
> Chris



Chris,


Thanks and welcome. Borrow away and good luck with your build. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Todd Lee* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> I've been following the progress for a few weeks now, nice work indeed! Thanks for the photo updates, and all the small, detailed information you've provided. It'll sure make it easier on those of us that are planning projects down the road!
> 
> 
> Todd



Thanks Todd. I'm glad its helped. Thanks for the reply as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just got back from my "returns" run. I went down to the cabinet place to look at the different styles and I think I figured out what I wanted. I then went to "Floor and Decor" and returned all the wall tile and floor tile I didn't use. From there, I returned a can of primer and trim paint. On the way back, I stopped at Orange to return the remaining laminate floor, wall tile and some misc things. I also picked up switch plates and some other misc stuff.


While there, I wandered over to the flooring department to check on the status. Saw Eileen and found out the the installers will have my carpet by tomorrow, she said the measurement guys will be here tomorrow and she's trying to get the carpet installed this week. We'll see what happens in the next few days.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Looks great Bud. Interested in a pic of the bottom of the laminate when you get a chance. You're close to being done. Just think of how much time you'll have when you don't updates to post?


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Milt. I lubricated the knees with the rest of the beer Mark (BritinVA) brought last week!
> 
> 
> Bud



Sounds like a return trip is in order to replenish your stocks










So what was your rating of the Tetleys?


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Tetleys were wonderful. I really enjoyed them. I'll have to see if the local store carries them.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great Bud. Interested in a pic of the bottom of the laminate when you get a chance. You're close to being done. Just think of how much time you'll have when you don't updates to post?



Plan on me posting for quite some time. I'll take a shot of the back this morning for you.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Did a few small things yesterday in the game room and bar. I put on all the outlet covers and a few wall plates. I bought a few midways I didn't want to use. I also noticed a bunch of spots on the walls I need to fix around outlets. I also put up the register covers as well as all the trims/baffles for the cans. I also connected the four ceiling speakers.


I did manage to get all the trash out yesterday morning as well, although because of the holiday, looks like they'll be coming today. Glad it didn't rain yesterday, would have been a mess at the curb.


Measurement guy is suppose to be here this morning.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Here are a few pictures of the laminate. As you can see the blue area is the preinstalled foam material.










The edging around the laminate is groved and is part of the locking system. One side fits in the other. You basically tile on side and line them up, then snap them in place for a very tight fit.










The "individual planks" of wood in the laminate have a microbevel so it looks like traditional hardwood put together. When you put the boards in place, the seam between the length of the boards disappears.


Also, you really need a table saw to cut this stuff. Especially when you get to a point where you need to cut it lengthwise.


Bud


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jerrod,
> 
> Also, you really need a table saw to cut this stuff. Especially when you get to a point where you need to cut it lengthwise.
> 
> Bud



I agree. For quick crosscuts on the floor I installed, I used a miter saw, but a table saw was invaluable for ripping lengthwise. Then again, my planks were only 3.75" wide; yours look a bit wider. I tried ripping them with a jigsaw, but just tore the boards up.


Joseph


----------



## chinadog

Well, measurement guy was just here. He remeasured ALL the carpeted areas. He said because they made the mistake, they cover it. So we'll see what the deal is with the dye lot and if its not right, I guess they'll be replacing everything, including the stairs. The installers were suppose to have the carpet today, so I'll be calling Eileen this afternoon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JosephShaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. For quick crosscuts on the floor I installed, I used a miter saw, but a table saw was invaluable for ripping lengthwise. Then again, my planks were only 3.75" wide; yours look a bit wider. I tried ripping them with a jigsaw, but just tore the boards up.
> 
> 
> Joseph



These are just shy of 12" wide and my mitre saw is 10", so I didn't even try it. I used a jig saw for those funny cuts and notches when I needed to, but they recommend you cut everything upside down so you don't tear it up. When you have funny cuts and have to transfer all the measurements on the back (mirror image) it gets you thinking!


Bud


----------



## coastalb55

Bud,


I used the same (cherry wood design, correct?) DuPont laminate in my living room and dining room just over a year ago. 500 ft^2 in all and we were able to knock it out a day. Easy install.


I'm enjoying watching your progress!


Andy


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, measurement guy was just here. He remeasured ALL the carpeted areas. He said because they made the mistake, they cover it. So we'll see what the deal is with the dye lot and if its not right, I guess they'll be replacing everything, including the stairs. The installers were suppose to have the carpet today, so I'll be calling Eileen this afternoon.
> 
> 
> Bud



Man what a pain in the rear. They keep draging it on and on and on.......


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coastalb55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I used the same (cherry wood design, correct?) DuPont laminate in my living room and dining room just over a year ago. 500 ft^2 in all and we were able to knock it out a day. Easy install.
> 
> 
> I'm enjoying watching your progress!
> 
> 
> Andy



Thanks Andy. I guess it has an aspect of cherry to it, its called "Merbau Block". It wasn't a bad install, just took longer than expected.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man what a pain in the rear. They keep draging it on and on and on.......



Agreed, but I think it'll get resolved pretty quickly now. I have my fingers crossed at least.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just bought a few EB6 blanks (6 space) for my rack on ebay to fill in the bottom section. I think I'm ok for shelves now, I have on 3U shelf left and one unused shelf in the rack now. I'd like to get a 2U or 3U drawer for misc supplies/tools.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Put in my order with the neighbor the for bar and concession cabinets this morning. He said he was going to order them today. I'm going for a color called "Cafe with a Licorice glaze". It's a darker brown with some detail with a dark glaze coat. Should take three weeks.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Nice and clean look. Great job. Is that SW Restrained Gold on the walls?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. SW Restrained Gold in the gameroom and bar. Blonde in the concession area. Just replied to you PM as well.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Thanks. SW Restrained Gold in the gameroom and bar. Blonde in the concession area. Just replied to you PM as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



I thought that color looked familiar. We have the SW RG in our house too. Also, thanks for taking my call.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


No problem. Let me know if you need anything else.


Bud


----------



## advertguy2

Hi Bud,


I'm about to start drywalling my basement (not dedicated HT) tomorrow morning. A while back I thought you put up a post saying what type of tape etc... you used for all of your joints. I can't seem to find that post now for some reason.


I'm going to go with the fiberglass tape for all the joints between the panels and the paperfaced corner beads for outside and inside corners.


I'm trying to find out what is used between the ceiling and wall corner? Is it the same inside corner bead used between walls? Or is the standard paper tape used?


Thanks in advance for your assistance.


Dan


----------



## chinadog

Hey Dan,


I used the fiberglass tape for the tapered and butt joints.


I used the corner joints (tape with metal) for the the drywall pieces that came together at a 90 degree angle. In other words, everywhere where there was a inside or outside corner, vertically or horizontally. So in your case, where the corner meets the ceiling, I used the metal/tape corners for the inside corner itself (vertical) and where the ceiling comes to the wall, the same, inside corners (horizontally). You can use paper tape (or heavy paper tape) for the wall/ceiling joints, you basically fold it in half to make 90 degree angles, but for me, it was just as easier to use the corner pieces. Are you planning on crown molding? If so, it'll all be covered, so you might want to consider the heavy paper route to save you a few bucks.


When you use the tape/metal corner beads, makes sure you have enough mud to secure the corner in place, but not too much where you have "hills" under the tape. After you get it on the wall, take a mud knife and run it down the length to get the excess mud out. Same with outside corners. If you have too much mud under them, it's harder to correct later. Remember, the first coat of mud is there to act as a sort of glue to hold it in place. The outside coats are there to make it look right.


I think I posted info on those beads in the thread, there is some good info on working with them there as well (on the link to the site). When you work on the finish coats, do one side at a time and let it dry before moving to the other side.


Let me know if you have any questions.


Bud


----------



## advertguy2

Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I'm not going to be putting up crown so I think I'm going to stick with the paper faced corner beads for the ceiling/wall corners. Little pricier, but in the end, whats $40 (if that) extra if it makes my life easier.


Keep up the great work.


Dan


----------



## chinadog

Thanks. Even though I did crown, I did the paperfaced anyway. A few bucks more, but a lot easier. You can just butt them together. When you cut them, I used linemans pliers to flatten the metal edges out.


This may help:
http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Con...tion_guide.pdf 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Picked up my quarter round yesterday and got it painted this morning. I need to stain two pieces for the concession area. Comcast internet was hosed today, so I lost a lot of time online and for work, so ... I wandered downstairs. Managed to get 95% of the painted quarter round installed already.


I also called the carpet installers this mornng and was told they have one piece of carpet on hand, but not the other (the Sanded Silk), but they still won't schedule the install until they get the second piece. Called Orange again today and found out the section of Sanded Silk was delayed from the mill (contrary to what I was told before) and that it won't get shipped out until next week. SO, my installation will be running on like 6 WEEKS next week. Since I'll be away on vacation soon, my guess is they won't get me on the schedule until after I return, so it'll be two weeks after that. Time to call Jim the store manager again.


A few interesting articles recently in the paper about HD, the stockholder meeting (directors were a no-show), customer service, 20% decline in stock price since he took the helm, etc. I'm sure Mr. Nardelli is getting beaten up on a large number of fronts, as he should considering the $150M he's made over the last five years (not including stock options and retirement perks).


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...A few interesting articles recently in the paper about HD, the stockholder meeting (directors were a no-show), customer service, 20% decline in stock price since he took the helm, etc. I'm sure Mr. Nardelli is getting beaten up on a large number of fronts, as he should considering the $150M he's made over the last five years (not including stock options and retirement perks).
> 
> 
> Bud



Guys in my neck of the woods are beaming about those woes.


(for those who don't know it, Lowe's headquarters is here in Mooresville)


----------



## ChrisEarnhardt

Bud, I just looked at all 64 pages of your theater construction this morning. Great work. I think these construction threads are the best part of this forum. Keep posting more pics.


Chris


----------



## chinadog

Hey Chris,


Thanks. I'll keep posting as I make more progress. Caulked some quarter round today, painted one side of a door, and grouted the batthroom shower and floor today. All important, but not the most picture friendly. Tomorrow the rest of the laminate, hopefully the remaining doors will be painted and I'll trim out the rack. More pictures then!


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Hey Bud,


You have probably addressed this recently but i might have missed it...what type/size seating will you be going with, how many rows/seat..etc etc


I was wondering if you would have room for the 90's or if you were looking more towards the 88's


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


Decided to go with option A, two 90s in the front, loveseat flanked by 90s in the back.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, some weekend shots. Got pretty much everything I wanted to done this weekend, except put the transitions in where the floor and the carpet meet as well as the laminate to the slate in the bar. Getting close!


I didn't take any pictures of the closet I did, but here is the bar area. Needs to be swept. the whole perimeter of the bar (except the wall on the right will have cabinets. You can see one imperfection there on the left in the second picture, well that's just a filler. I used a cut piece to start and needed something to level it out under the cabinets, so it won't be seen. Needs a good sweeping. I was afraid I was going to run out of slate, in fact, I used every piece.


















Hung up the Mummy poster temporarily. Love the colors. I ordered a set of 20 old movie posters like that on ebay. All 11x17 though. Plan on putting a few around, including the bathroom! Where the mummy poster is, I'll make a lightbox.










Finally, got some stuff cleaned up and started touching up the walls.










Here is the bathroom grouted.










Here is the rack trimmed out. Went with the stained trim, since it was already done. Looks good. Can always paint it black later. I've got 6 space blanks for the bottom of the rack coming.










Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Is that a Heini or Becks on the bar.......glad to see it was not a Anheiser Bush brand










Looking real sweat - soon you will be done and can start enyoing!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> You can see one imperfection there on the left in the second picture,



How can you live with yourself







Beautiful tile work, Bud. Your grout lines are impeccable. Craftsmanship.


> Quote:
> Can always paint it black later



Just my opinion. Don't. Looks nice the way it is.


> Quote:
> Is that a Heini or Becks on the bar



Beck's


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Milt is correct, it's a Becks. I drink both and stay away from AB. For some reason, the liquor store I go to sells 12 packs of Becks for 9.99, so its a steal for those hot day, chuggin' beers.


Milt,


Just want to make sure you knew. I actually tiled the bathroom. The black slate in the bar is laminate, like the wood floor. You might have missed that post, but thanks anyway!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Hark at me talking - I'm sitting here swigging a Micholob Amber Bock - its the only AB beer I'll drink (unless the only other choice is water







)


----------



## lektern

So Bud keeps telling us he's not drinking when he's had the spills. Hmmm, I think we've caught him guys!


Seriously Bud, things are turning out beautiful. I agree that the stained trim around the rack is beautiful. Do you have an additional amp, or are you powering your speakers just with that Yamaha RXV2600?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Thanks. I'm using the 2600 for the HT room. I had an old Kenwood receiver/CD changer laying around I'm using for music in the bar/gameroom. I have two pairs of in ceiling speakers (Hometech - ebay purchase) in that area. I also ran IR to the bar (as well as component/HDMI/CAT5, etc for future stuff) so I can control it and still have it in the rack. I have another Kenwood receiver that I bought for the sole use of buttkickers.


The 2600 does have zone two/three capability, but since I have to Kenwoods, I figured I might as well use them.


Bud


----------



## Don_Kellogg

Bud;


Where did you get the trim that you used around your av rack? It looks really nice is that one piece or is it a stacked millwork job?


----------



## lektern

Thanks Bud. I was most interested in whether the 2600 would have any trouble powering all the speakers. I'm planning my budget very carefully and wanted to verify it won't be necessary for me to buy an amp right now. When I add buttkickers (Christmas present to myself), I'll get a separate amp to power those I expect.


You're going to love those laminate floors. I've had them in two different homes in the last 5 years and they're awesome. The wife loves how easy they are to clean up. Swiffer's work great on there.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don_Kellogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud;
> 
> 
> Where did you get the trim that you used around your av rack? It looks really nice is that one piece or is it a stacked millwork job?



Hey Don,


I bought it at a local molding/trim place about 15 miles from where I am ( Moldings Unlimited ) . I'm sure you can find something similar in your area. It's a case molding in yellow pine with a Rosewood stain. Here is the profile:











Its put together in two pieces, but was done at the mill, not by me. They sell it at Orange, but its primed/paint grade. I wanted to match the same casing in the rest of the house, but wanted it stained for the HT room. Its the same casing I used for all the stained doors.


Here are the rest of their casing profiles in case you see something else you might like and give you some ideas:
http://www.mouldingsunlimited.com/casing.htm 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're going to love those laminate floors. I've had them in two different homes in the last 5 years and they're awesome. The wife loves how easy they are to clean up. Swiffer's work great on there.



That's one thing I noticed already, it's real easy to sweep and clean up. It should work out nicely.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Rack looks real nice. Heck everything does.


This tip is probably too basic for your skill level, but you may want to put a sealer on the grout. Our builder didn't do it, a neighbor suggested it, we didn't get around to it, and our grout is grimy now.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Sure will, thanks. They say you have to let it sit 72 hours before you can seal it. I have to mist the grout once a day as well. One nice thing about this grout, it has a matching caulk. Both the caulk and the grout are sanded as well. I still need to do the corners with the caulk, but think I'll do that after I paint the bathroom.


Geez, I just keep finding things for me to do.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm planning my budget very carefully and wanted to verify it won't be necessary for me to buy an amp right now. When I add buttkickers (Christmas present to myself), I'll get a separate amp to power those I expect.



External amps are never _necessary_ when you're using an AVR, that's the nice part. You can always upgrade that later, even if it's considered underpowered. Get the receiver/pre-pro for its features first, and power second. Power is easily upgraded.


Sorry for the hijack..


----------



## chinadog

A couple of updates. Plumber called, he's coming out Friday to install the toilet. I've done it before, but I want to check on some things with my pump anyway, so he can install the toilet. In fact, he's going to even bring it so I don't have to go buy it and lug it downstairs. Going to run out tonight and get a vanity, sink and the matching faucet (same as the shower).


Called the big "O" again, carpet is on its way to the installer and I should get a call from them later this week to get on the schedule. I was told I'm suppose to get "priority" scheduling, so it looks like it'll be after I get back from vacation next week before I see the carpet installed.


Bud


----------



## GPowers

looking good bud, your in the home Stretch now. What is the opening night DVD?


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> looking good bud, your in the home Stretch now. What is the opening night DVD?



What do you mean opening night?? He's has over 250 hours on that projector already. It's more of a "Grand Re-Opening" IMO


----------



## GPowers

The official opening, with all the inviteeees.


It doese not mean you cannot test the hardware. after all you need to make sure it all works, right Bud........


----------



## chinadog

Steve and Greg,


I agree, you need to make sure things work! Maybe not 250 hours worth (probably closer to 350 now).


Lets see, carpet is 2-3 weeks out, cabinets are 2-3 weeks out, seats are 2-3 weeks out. Hmmm, I guess we're looking at the 4th weekend for an opening. Still need countertops for the bar, but hey, can't have everything.


My guess is we'll do a outdoor movie first, not positive though. Have to think about the movie though. I'll have to see what's coming out in the next few weeks and see if there is anything good. I might do a kids movie and invite all the neighbors, then the adults can pound a few. Or just me!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tonight I bought a 48" vanity and cultured marble top. Both in boring white. I did see a nice wood vanity, but it something about the symmetry to it I didn't like. The guy at Lowes (yes, the Big L, Big Blue II, Big Blue Box) helped me get it off the shelve and on the cart and then I decided against it, so back up on the shelf it went. That's OK, I paid for that, since I had to put it in the back of the truck myself since no one was around. Just me a a 48" vanity. Picture that one.


I did have to go to Orange since Lowes didn't have the matching Delta faucet that I bought for the shower. I also picked up a few double gang wall plates and could not find a three gang plate in Decora white. Found every color though but white. Asked the returns chick for someone in electrical and after a few minutes SHE comes over. She couldn't help, she said I had to wait. I'm like "Sorry, gotta go....." I wish I knew what Jim the store manager looked like. Second damn time I can't find a stupid plate.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - For Kids think about the Nanny McPhee movie - a nice id movie and I think the LFE of her cane striking the floor will be superb! We watch it lat weekend and my $500 Sony HTIB was quite impressive (but I sit right by the sub).


looking good - looks like i need another trip to Atlanta in 4 weeks


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Good call. I didn't realize that was out. Need to pick that one up when we get close.


Anytime you're in the area, give us a shout. You're always welcome.


Bud


----------



## ebr

I second Nanny McPhee. Good family flick.


----------



## chinadog

A few updates from this morning. Got a ship date for the Berks from Ben, looks like the seats will be here around the 23rd. That's great, since I'll be gone a week and didn't want them arriving while I was out. Now I need to make sure the carpet is installed before the seats arrive.


Neighbor called, the cabinet guys want to measure for some verification, which makes sense. They were going off the HD measurements done before. He should be out this week, I'll find out later today. That means the cabinets will be pushed out a week probably. I'm OK with that though, since I'll be saving a ton.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Painted the bathroom last night in preparation for the plumbers coming on Friday. Still need to put the base molding in there, now that that the tile is done. Will do that tonight.


As I recall, these guys didn't show up on the correct day last time when they did the plumbing for the bar/broke up the floor, I hope they get it right this time.


Will snap a shot this AM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few shots from this morning. Had some more goodies arrive today, I got my MA blank panels for the bottom of the rack. Still need to stain and do the quarter round for the concession area.



















Bathroom painted and vanity/sink/faucets waiting for a home.



















Bud


----------



## larryep

Bud,


the rack turned out real nice!!


larryep


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it. Need to do some stuff behind it still, organize the wires, install some plates, etc. I also am on the hunt for a 2U or 3U drawer on the cheap. I keep seeing 4 space ones with locks and I just don't need something that big (or expensive).


Will keep checking the worlds biggest flea market...


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I also got my extra bulbs from goodmart.com for my cans in the gameroom/bar area. One broken out of a case. Was actually surprised one was broken. No big deal, they were like a buck and a half each and I have plenty of extra.


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Looking good Bud! I think this is the first time I have said this to a man, but NICE RACK!


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking good Bud! I think this is the first time I have said this to a man, but NICE RACK!



Umm.. is THIS what you had in mind???


----------



## chinadog

Ahh, there was a "show me your rack" thread last year. Now lets not go and start posting deer racks, spice racks, racks of ribs, etc.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Carpet installers called today, remaining carpet will be installed on Tuesday, June 20th now. At least I'm on the schedule (again). I requested the same installers I had just to be safe.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Plumbers are suppose to be here today, we'll see if they make it. Just in case, I painted some more base molding and installed part of it this morning. I hadn't done that in the bathroom because I wanted to get the floor in first. I also have to have them put in the vanity first so I can get a final measurement and cut the piece behind the toilet. I want to make sure I can get it in before they put the toilet in, otherwise I may have to piece it. I couldn't put the vanity in yet because they have to move one of the supplies for the faucet. We were going to put a three foot vanity in initially, but the four foot one will will look better. The supply is in the way of a drawer. Should be no big deal, since they have access to it from under the stairs. I didn't drywall that (yet).


Cabinet guy has not shown up for measurements of the bar yet.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Plumber called, they'll be here in about 45 minutes! Geez, maybe my luck is changing for the better.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Plumber was here and is gone. Shower faucet is in, toilet is in. Vanity was just broken (I left it in the box), but was too wide anyway. Based on what he told me about the toilet width I thought I was good. Now I have to go back and get a 36" one now. Also, the faucet didn't fit in the vanity due to the hole spread, so I have to return the top anyway and get a new one.


Oh well, at least some of its done.


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Well, at least the new throne is in.


And just for others and Bud if he ever builds another rack, you might not want the largest blanks available. You can get 2 large blanks and then a bunch of smaller blanks. The smaller blanks can go between the components to give them more room to breath and make the rack look fuller. But here's the main reason, look at Bud's very nice rack and suppose he were to get another component. That means he would need another shelf of course but that would also mean that one of his large blanks wouldn't fit anymore and he would have to buy a whole new blank rather than just removing a small blank. Now I know, blanks aren't outrageously priced, but I would rather just pull out a 2 space blank instead of pulling out a 6 space blank and having to buy a new 4 space blank. Just a thought to maybe save you a little money in the future if there's a chance of adding more equipment to a rack.


I built my own large blank. I went to a metal sign shop and got them to cut a black metal piece to the size I wanted, drilled my own holes and installed it. If I ever need the blank to be smaller, then I just cut some off the top, drill new holes and reinstall. It cost me like $8 or something like that and I have one solid smooth blank in my rack.


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


That is true what you said. I am looking at getting a two space drawer, whihc means that I'd need either a 4 space blank or two 2 space blanks after I do get the drawer. I already have a few extra shelves, but I bought the blanks for an ex-MA dealer on ebay, so I paid next to nothing for the blanks. You are correct though (but you have to buy twice as many screws!!! j/k).


EDIT: Also, I tried to keep my receivers on top so not to keep the main source of heat traveling through the rack. I also have the fan in top of the closet, so it will be pulling the heat up and I have a vent panel on the very bottom (plus the door is not airtight). I may rearrange some things based on that Middle Atlantic white paper, but I'm a ways from finalizing the rack. I also wanted to cover up the open area to keep the kids from going through the rack and I wanted to keep everything (er, anything expense) away from the kids reach, but still give them access to put in a DVD. Same for the game console (when I get it).


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Yeah, judging where the hot components go is always tricky when you start thinking about where to put them. I've read the white paper, but it's still tricky thinking about it. If you put them at the top, then the heat goes right out the exhaust, but then that means they are being cooled with warm air from the other lower components. If you put them at the bottom, they will cool the best, but the heat will warm all the other components. It's crazy. Maybe we should start a dual level rack where there are two levels to the rack seperated by a plate and a second fan half way up the back door. Then each level can have its own intake and exhaust so that both levels can stay cooler. Copyright 2006 by Toxarch.


I didn't put a back on mine so that it's open to the rest of the crawlspace closet. There is a vent at the top and two fans between the two amps near the bottom. The fans help the amps a lot. The amps are about all that kids can reach and those just have an on/off switch so that's no big deal. I also have an A/C vent that blows from inside the closet toward the amps near the bottom of the rack (this needs to be rearranged to look better, but it's just a closet). And all the air going into the closet gets pushed out the 2 space vent at the top of the rack. So with all the room in the closet and all the air moving through, the rack stays pretty cool, but all that heat goes into the theater. Luckily, I had the A/C unit zoned so I can use the 3.5 ton unit and 4 ton blower to just cool the theater.


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


What kind of fans did you use? Was it on of the MA rack fan panels?


I have a separate HVAC for the whole basement. So far the HT room has been pretty stable temperature wise. I have two supplies and one return, but have an option for an extra return. I have a storage room off the equipment room and that has a supply and a return, so I can always reroute a few things depending on if I need it. I also have that bathroom fan in the closet and the inline fan for the projector. So far so good.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> So far the HT room has been pretty stable temperature wise. I have two supplies and one return, but have an option for an extra return.



Bud,


You may have put this into an earlier post, but how do you contain sound from escaping through your HT HVAC? I realize you have the entire basement on a separate system, but how do you keep the other parts of the basement from sounding like the HT? thanks,


Scott


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I went back through the thread and realized you don't have anything behind the GOM on the upper half of the room. Obviously that was how it was designed, I'm just curious as to how that will affect the acoustics. I was under the impression most people treat the bottom half, roughly, of the wall with Linacoustic, and the top half with something else. Since the GOM is AT, with just drywall behind it, will this be an issue? Maybe bpape could pipe in here to explain.


I'm mostly curious because I'm trying to finalize my design and budget and need to know what I will need for acoustics besides Linacoustic, Insulation, and mineral wool (for bass traps).


----------



## BIGmouthinDC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Plumber was here and is gone. Based on what he told me about the toilet width I thought I was good. Now I have to go back and get a 36" one now.
> 
> 
> Bud




Damn you got some big folks in that house. At least it will be comfortable.


----------



## ebr

Hey Dave, I'll jump in here before Bud just because he and I used the same designer and have a similar setup in treatments. Bryan is not a believer in using the poly batting in non-treated areas. He believes it kills the highs too much. That batting is not nearly as absorptive as the Linacoustic or OC 703 but it does have some absorptive properties and filling all those voids is a lot of square footage. According to BB's spreadsheet it has about half the absorption as linacoustic on the high end. So, that will have an effect...


When I'm completed, I should be in a pretty good position to offer an opinion on this issue as well since I've had two rooms with the poly treatment and now this one will not have it.

I will say, I always felt my previous rooms were a little dead on the high end. I always ended up boosting with EQ to get the sound I wanted. We'll see what happens this time.


----------



## garykagan

Nice work on the rack Bud,


Gary


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


Just doing my normal (of late) 2 week check in and I wanted to compliment you on your rack, it turned out great. Also like the shots of the other rooms, looks like you need some cabinets, a bar top and and some beverages and you'll be pretty much done.


Dave


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> You may have put this into an earlier post, but how do you contain sound from escaping through your HT HVAC? I realize you have the entire basement on a separate system, but how do you keep the other parts of the basement from sounding like the HT? thanks,
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott,


Sounds containment wasn't a huge thing of concern for me. The return an supply in the room use the insulated flex duct and have many turns in them. You can hear a movie if you have it cranked down there, but not necessary through the ducts, but just because I did not do a ton of isolation besides the R19 through out..


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I went back through the thread and realized you don't have anything behind the GOM on the upper half of the room. Obviously that was how it was designed, I'm just curious as to how that will affect the acoustics. I was under the impression most people treat the bottom half, roughly, of the wall with Linacoustic, and the top half with something else. Since the GOM is AT, with just drywall behind it, will this be an issue? Maybe bpape could pipe in here to explain.
> 
> 
> I'm mostly curious because I'm trying to finalize my design and budget and need to know what I will need for acoustics besides Linacoustic, Insulation, and mineral wool (for bass traps).



That was the recommendation from Bryan as well as no batting, based on the analysis of the room he did. I'll let Bryan explain.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice work on the rack Bud,
> 
> 
> Gary



Thanks.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Damn you got some big folks in that house. At least it will be comfortable.



That was the vanity I was talking about, not the width of the toilet!!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GranTheaterO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> Just doing my normal (of late) 2 week check in and I wanted to compliment you on your rack, it turned out great. Also like the shots of the other rooms, looks like you need some cabinets, a bar top and and some beverages and you'll be pretty much done.
> 
> 
> Dave



Thanks Dave. Pretty close now, just a few more weeks...


Bud


----------



## larryep

Bud

sounds like your rounding 3rd!!

my progress has come to a halt with equipment in the room.

Bud are you using battery backup for all your equipment? I bought 3 conext UPS's. They all have USB to computer and then monitor on the power management of operating system. very cool. Each UPS is monitored.


larryep


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Not at this point. When I get to the HTPC phase, I'll do something. I picked up a new furman power conditioner from ebay, but haven't gotten it yet. I'll have to check that out.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I'm sure it's somewhere in the 66 pages, but I thought I remember you saying you're putting in "bass shakers". Are you using a separate amp to power those?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Yes. I bought an older Kenwood receiver off ebay sometime last year. Plan on powering the shakers with it. I've got the front of the platform wired as well the back wall. I bought the Aura shakers from PE a while back. I may wait to install them though.


Bud


----------



## sailor06

Bud - everything is looking good. I like the rack - Where did you buy your rack?


----------



## chinadog

Thanks. I'm pretty sure I got it at www.bswusa.com . At the time the price was great and the shipping was free. Haven't looked lately.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sorry for the slow responses this week guys, I was on vacation with limited (dialup) access to get online. The 40-50 year old beach front house in North Myrtle Beach we rented needed work. The phone lines were down a few days, the roof leaked during Alberto, there was a cast iron waste pipe that was cracked in the wall causing flooding, etc. Sad part is the house was up for sale for 3.2 million!!! Man, i just can't get over that.


Anyway, things should be "back to normal". Remaining carpet and seats this week!


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Let me guess.....it was a "steal" at 3.2 mil huh, lol.....


Well glad to hear you didnt get swept away with Alberto and we are all looking forward to your seating and carpet.


Robert


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Sad part is the house was up for sale for 3.2 million!!!



Sadder part.....someone will buy for $3+ million. Location, location, location.



> Quote:
> I bought the Aura shakers from PE a while back. I may wait to install them though.



Don't wait! I just installed mine and the effect is amazing! Seems like my crappy 10" sub is going to tear the house apart







My kids love them.


Welcome back. I hope you and your family had a relaxing vacation.


Scott


----------



## chinadog

Robert and Scott,


I think if someone can afford it, it'll be a big company looking to rip it down along with some of the houses next to it and be replaced with a hotel/timeshare.


View of the back of the house:
http://images1.fotki.com/v321/photos...00_1293-vi.jpg 


Ocean view from back deck:
http://images1.fotki.com/v321/photos...00_1288-vi.jpg 


Looking south down the beach:
http://images1.fotki.com/v6/photos/6...00_1297-vi.jpg 


Looking north:
http://images1.fotki.com/v6/photos/6...00_1299-vi.jpg 


On the shakers, we'll see. Got to get the seats first, then figure out the install.


EDIT: Got a picture of UTAN, King of the Crocs , from Alligator Adventure while we were there.
http://images17.fotki.com/v9/photos/...00_1381-vi.jpg 


My son loved that!



Bud


----------



## SVonhof

But, I agree with your assement, it's only time before that rental is gone and replaced with something bigger.


----------



## chinadog

Cabinet guy came today! He just left. Made a few minor adjustments, but looks like three weeks until cabinets. Also, we had two doors upstairs in the kitchen that he's going to replace (one large door was warped, the other was looked to be be slightly damaged and never noticed it before). It's the same company that did cabinets for the kitchen, so that worked out well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Especially when you look up and down the beach and see cranes everywhere!


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud, on the warped cabinet doors - was that a pricey fix? I assume they are going to just replace the doors? Is there a custom matching type service (up)charge? My POS builder-special kitchen cabinets are warping left and right. Not a priority, but eventually it needs to be addressed.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Not sure yet. Been in the house almost three years now. Since its the same company that did the original doors/cabinets, I would assume it wouldn't be too much. He didn't quote me a price, he's going to call back in a day or so with the price of the bar and concession are cabinets, so I'll find out then. He said he had to order two new doors, so maybe its under warranty. Not sure. I'll post back when I find something out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Forgot to mention, returned the bathroom vanity/sink/faucet and picked up new ones yesterday. New twist now. The vanity has drawers on the right hand side and when you open them it'll hit the door casing. So, I could shift the vanity some to the left, to give it clearance, but will have a small gap on the side. Suggestions? It looks OK, slightly shifted, I can put a piece of base molding on the side and give it a finished look. I can move it more left to give a larger opening (so not to look as though it won't fit), but only about 4-5 inches.


Bud


----------



## nebrunner

Surprised nobody mentioned it yet.....


HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!!!!



Your theater is officially one year old, bake a cake and have a party!


----------



## chinadog

Geez, hard to believe this thread is already a year old, approaching 2000 posts and over 140K in views. Gonna be plenty bored when all is said and done!


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I say shift it as little left as possible and finish it out with a piece of wood. Noone will ever realize it isn't the actual cabinet.


Just out of curiousity, since I never make remodeling deadlines myself, what was your original timeline plan to have the basement and HT done? I'll be extremely happy if I make the progress you've made.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I think I said March for the whole basement since I was doing it all once. Then I started shifting right from there. I believe if I were to do the theater again the same way, I could probably do it now in about 6 weeks (nights and weekends) without all the distractions of course. Just a guess though.


On the vanity... the tough part about your suggestion is that the cultured marble countertop will not cover the extra piece. It won't have any overlap at all, I don't think with the extra inch I'll need. Its just too tight. I tried that yesterday. I'll double check it again though.


EDIT:


I said "spring" and EOY for the HT room. Funny to look back at the old posts.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6035852 


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Now I understand the problem. I'm used to the countertop overlapping the cabinet at least a little. Any way you could put some type of wood casing around the countertop that would look "natural"? Some type of moulding that would look nice enough to make it appear the countertop is built into the wall.


----------



## laststarfighter

you might be able to get a cultured marble surround custom made to match and fit your situation from a cultured marble shop.


or they might have a better solution.


----------



## chinadog

Thought about the custom route, not sure how much that would run. I could also get a different vanity, I suppose.


Dave, I don't think the top would look right with molding, it's got a small lip do to a routed edge.


I'll take a few pictures today.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Carpet installers to be here about noon. Stay tuned....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, carpet guys are here. The new piece does not exactly match the other, but is very close. Since it's on the platform and separated with the bullnose molding, it'll work. Will post pictures in a bit.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, carpet guys are here. The new piece does not exactly match the other, but is very close. Since it's on the platform and separated with the bullnose molding, it'll work. Will post pictures in a bit.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I hope you are not surprised about this -- I wouldn't be. Glad you can "hide" the color difference.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Not at all, I knew it wasn't the same dye lot, HD told me that early on as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, carpet is installed. Looks great. I'm pretty happy with the way it worked out, especially the stage. Now I just need to finish up my front panels.


Stage:


























Riser:


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the bathroom vanity situation.


1st picture is about where it needs to be to get the drawer open. Would need to put in the base molding/quarter round down the side wall from the casing.










Second picture is if I scoot the vanity over a few more inches so it looks like I'm not trying to get it in the corner. Still needs the molding from the casing.










Bud


----------



## nebrunner

Looks absolutely beautiful. If that home theater was a woman I would be coming over with flowers to woo her.


Hell, I might be coming over with flowers to woo you! You've got to love it when a plan comes together.


Tell us if you have found yourself just sitting in the middle of that room and basking in the glory of all your hard work!


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I think you should pull the vanity away from the wall like you did in the second pic (and add a small piece of baseboard trim). With your vanity's "leg" style, it will look great.


BTW -- the carpet looks great.


----------



## chinadog

Well thanks, but my wife may get a little freaked out if you showed up with flowers looking for me.










Still waiting to wallow until I get everthing else done. Close though, very close. Want to see the seats, the cabinets in, then maybe.


Bud


----------



## TheSpoon

Bud,

The theater looks great! I'm glad the carpet ended up working out too. How long until your seats will be in?







When I first found this forum in Jan., SandmanX and your threads kept me reading. I was disappointed to see that neither of your theaters were finish. So you've kept me coming back. Congrats on a beautiful theater, and basement for that matter. Hopefully, whenever I start my HT I'll be able to help even half as much as you have with your thread.


As for the bathroom. I'd say if you don't manage to fill that gap at all I would keep it as far away from the corner as possible. You know something will get dropped between there and if it's too close to the wall you won't be able to reach in there and get it out.


Nelson


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I think you should pull the vanity away from the wall like you did in the second pic (and add a small piece of baseboard trim). With your vanity's "leg" style, it will look great.
> 
> 
> BTW -- the carpet looks great.



Steve, thats what I was thinking. Plus it won't be such a big gap next to the toliet with it shifted some... the reason I went with the 48" to start. It would be like 4-5 inches off the side wall.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheSpoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> The theater looks great! I'm glad the carpet ended up working out too. How long until your seats will be in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I first found this forum in Jan., SandmanX and your threads kept me reading. I was disappointed to see that neither of your theaters were finish. So you've kept me coming back. Congrats on a beautiful theater, and basement for that matter. Hopefully, whenever I start my HT I'll be able to help even half as much as you have with your thread.
> 
> 
> As for the bathroom. I'd say if you don't manage to fill that gap at all I would keep it as far away from the corner as possible. You know something will get dropped between there and if it's too close to the wall you won't be able to reach in there and get it out.
> 
> 
> Nelson



Nelson, thanks. Glad you found this thread helpful. I found that many of the longer construction threads tend to fall off the face of the map once the theater is done and eventually get archived. Hard to believe this has been around as long as it has, but I'll continue to post after the theater is done to include the bar and gameroom, decorations, lightboxes, tickets window etc. Hopefully others will find it helpful as well. I could start other threads, but would rather have everything in one place.


I'm waiting on a response from Ben on the seats, I sent him an email today. His last email said the tentative delivery date for the seats is TODAY. Thats delivery to the local delivery group, He said up to three days after that for final delivery. So, I could have as early as tomorrow, but likely the end of the week unless something changed. I'll post when I get a response back from Ben.


On the vanity, I'm leaning that way. I think that's the best solution without a custom top.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

WHOA!!!!!!!!


I hit enter and Berkline calls! Delivery is tomorrow between 1 and 5! Talk about mental telepathy!







Or they read this thread, too.


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's the bathroom vanity situation.
> 
> 
> 1st picture is about where it needs to be to get the drawer open. Would need to put in the base molding/quarter round down the side wall from the casing.
> 
> 
> 
> Second picture is if I scoot the vanity over a few more inches so it looks like I'm not trying to get it in the corner. Still needs the molding from the casing.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Can you return the vanity for one with the draws on the left side???


----------



## chinadog

Greg,


They don't have them on the left side for 36" vanities, at least not where I looked. Might be able to get something custom, make it myself or order through a cabinet maker like Kraftmaid. I'm sure if I looked around enough I could find one, not sure what type of finish or style I'd find. Good point though.


Take a look at the Lowes site for bathroom vanities. I don't want to go any smaller than 36, otherwise I'd be OK. I think the 48" and the 60" ones have drawers on both sides.


Bud


----------



## GPowers

I would build a small bump out made of 2 x 4 framing and drywall to push the vanity over so the drawer cleared the casing. I would make the bump out higher then the counter, so it looks like you planned it that way but not too high. You could top the bump out with a shelf to keep things off the counter or stuff you want to keep dry, or stuff that you plug in to the outlet.


This solution eliminates the cleaning problem created by having that small space between the wall and the vanity. Plus you will always be pushing stuff of the counter down into that small space.


The small space will always look unfinished.


----------



## chinadog

Was just starting to think of my panels for the front of the screenwall again and although I think I have it all figured out, it dawned on me that I have some fabricmate track left. Although I don't have much left, I was thinking that it may be a good idea to use on a screen wall or proscenium if you have the case where you're limited on space. Instead of building panels, you could install the track on the screen wall and use it. This way you could get a clean look, not worry about warping furring strips and pull it off whenever required.


Oh well, may be too late for me at this point, but thought it may help someone out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would build a small bump out made of 2 x 4 framing and drywall to push the vanity over so the drawer cleared the casing. I would make the bump out higher then the counter, so it looks like you planned it that way but not too high. You could top the bump out with a shelf to keep things off the counter or stuff you want to keep dry, or stuff that you plug in to the outlet.
> 
> 
> This solution eliminates the cleaning problem created by having that small space between the wall and the vanity. Plus you will always be pushing stuff of the counter down into that small space.
> 
> 
> The small space will always look unfinished.



Greg,


Need to think about that. I'm not sure what I like pictured in my head, its almost as though you're trying to cover up the mistake.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud,


Glad the carpet saga got resolved - looking good and with the Berkline's on way you should be done in the HT (if thats possible).


I agree with 'swithey' - 2nd pic looks best - you will be forever fishing object out of the smaller gap.


Now I know your wife was unsure of you inviting strange men over to start with - If they start turning up with flowers that will send her over the top










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## r00ster

Bud, I would have to agree..I think that pic 2 looks the best. The carpet looks great. You used black carpet on the stage?


Drew


----------



## rsberg34

Carpet looks great Bud... I know its on a puter screen but you cant tell any difference in color and it looks great with your trim in there too.


I have to agree that the second option in the bathroom is the one I would go with. Not only does it look better in my opinion but I think it will be more functional and allow for actual trim at the base.


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Guys,


Thanks. The carpet saga is over, finally. Now to get the panels built to hid the bottom of the screen wall. I'll work on that this weekend.


Thanks for the comments on the vanity as well.


Drew,


The carpet is black. The color name is Blackmoor Matte. Its a little different shade than the black GOM, but it works. I had some concern initially about standard pile up against the frieze, but they did a great job and I'm really happy with the result.


They didn't use a pad on the stage, the carpet is pretty thick. They stapled it down (no tack strips). Actually, when he did the lip, he was having problems with the electric staple gun (1/2" staples), so I went and got my pnuematic stapler and 1" staples and he used that.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Now I see what you mean, my ideas would have sucked. I like GPowers idea of a bumpout, then put a shelf on it. Of course that means more drywalling for you?







Not that you mind.









If not that, then second pic where you move it as far from the wall as feasible.


Everything is really coming together. I've enjoyed following your thread and look forward to the completion. I'll challenge you to have it all done by the time I get home. I should be back home by Sep 1. That's about when I'll be starting my thread.


Couple questions:

Have you actually tested out the acoustics of the room yet?

Where did you get the cotton for your bass traps and did you go with cotton for price reasons or some other reason?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I accept that challenge, since the only thing I have now are minor construction items and then the lightboxes/ticket window.


I have not done any calibration or acoustic testing. I plan on calibrating audio/video in the next couple of weeks. I'm not up on the acoustic testing methodologies that others are using. I do have a SPL, but have not used it yet.


I got the cotton from bpape, since he did the calculated analysis and made the recommendation.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> I think you should pull the vanity away from the wall like you did in the second pic (and add a small piece of baseboard trim). With your vanity's "leg" style, it will look great.



I have to agree with Steve. Those vanities w/ the feet look good out in space more than butt up against the wall.


Carpet and colors look fantastic!


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good Bud! ;-)


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys.


Seat delivery guy called, he'll be here in about 15 minutes.


Bud


----------



## Allen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> Seat delivery guy called, he'll be here in about 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> Bud



Okay, that was 45 minutes ago, where are the pictures?










Allen


----------



## chinadog

I'm on a conference call. The boxes are in the gameroom. Want pictures of the boxes?










Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm on a conference call. The boxes are in the gameroom. Want pictures of the boxes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Finish your call and open a box already!


----------



## advertguy2

I like seeing boxes....


----------



## Allen

No doubt you surmised I was kidding, as I didn't really think you had time to assemble them even if you went right to work on it. What is funny is that you replied during a conference call.


Allen


----------



## TheSpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm on a conference call. The boxes are in the gameroom. Want pictures of the boxes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



YES!!

















Example: This link in EBR's thread


----------



## Allen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheSpoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YES!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Example: This link in EBR's thread




Tough crowd.


Allen


----------



## TheSpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tough crowd.
> 
> 
> Allen




Well he asked..










Nelson


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Allen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is funny is that you replied during a conference call.



I take it you've never attended a Big Blue conference call..


----------



## chinadog

Tim is correct. I bunch of overpaid yappers wasting comapny money (and my bonus).


I now have two chairs out and in the HT room. Thats all I had time for. The rest are in boxes. The other boxes have already been ravaged by 4,5,6 year olds making forts.


Pictures after the new conference call I'm on (







). Got another one at 4:30 and at 5:00....


Bud


----------



## miltimj

LOL.. Classic. Please tell me you're using a wireless headset w/built-in mute...


----------



## chinadog

I have a ploycom speaker phone with a mute button. I tend to stay in my office rather than wander around the house, I don't think I'd getting anything done (work-wise) if I were wireless.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheSpoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YES!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Example: This link in EBR's thread



Here's your boxes...











Bud


----------



## chinadog

*DONE!*


Want to thank Ben Harper for the seats. Everything worked out great! I've very happy with them. I highly recommend him.


Here are the picks:


























Bud


----------



## GPowers

We can see comand central. It must be the chair with the phone.


Looks very nice.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We can see comand central. It must be the chair with the phone.
> 
> 
> Looks very nice.



Bud,


I'm disappointed with you. I figured you'd have a nice Killians IRISH RED LAGAR in there










The seating looks great!


----------



## chinadog

Well, don't be too disappointed. Watched Sharktales and Curse of the Were Rabbit and had a few Becks. My daughter fell asleep in the seat (she beat me to it).


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GPowers* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We can see comand central. It must be the chair with the phone.
> 
> 
> Looks very nice.




Thanks, need a few tweaks in positioning, but from the command central, looks to be the best seat in the house.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Congrats Bud, looking fantastic.


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Gary. How are you coming along?


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Looking very comfy there BigDog.

Just curious Bud, how do you feel about the effectiveness of the "soundproofing"

you did on your room.

Have you cranked it up and stepped outside\\upstairs?


----------



## r00ster

Damn, Bud and here I was thinking I was going to catch up to you







. Chairs look great. I am not quite ready for those just yet. Soon maybe.


Drew


----------



## TheSpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's your boxes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




SEE! We never would have seen the bunny in pink if we didn't get pictures of the boxes too!










The seats look great Bud. Congrats again on a great looking Home Theater.


Nelson


----------



## rsberg34

The seats look good bud...its all coming together for you now....not long till your finnished


OUTSTANDING!!


Robert


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheSpoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SEE! We never would have seen the bunny in pink if we didn't get pictures of the boxes too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seats look great Bud. Congrats again on a great looking Home Theater.
> 
> 
> Nelson



My daughter is buried in one of those boxes as well, she made that bunny at Build a Bear last week in Myrtle Beach. Not mine, I swear....










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The seats look good bud...its all coming together for you now....not long till your finnished
> 
> 
> OUTSTANDING!!
> 
> 
> Robert



Thanks. I'm going to try and get those front panels done this weekend, then I have to wait for the cabinets to come in for the bar/concession area. That's about it, except for some minor touchup, etc.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking very comfy there BigDog.
> 
> Just curious Bud, how do you feel about the effectiveness of the "soundproofing"
> 
> you did on your room.
> 
> Have you cranked it up and stepped outside\\upstairs?



I have been upstairs during a movie and I think its fine. Actually, my office is directly above the theater room. I'm actually happy with the results. You can hear it at high levels. No doubt. But its muffled and usually low frequencies. Since there is no bedrooms in the vicinity, it works for us. If I had to do it again, I might have went for the GG sandwich at least, not sure about much else though, given my circumstances. Because I did the whole basement, I had to spread some of that wealth around, instead of putting all the money in one room. Who knows. If my original goal was to soundproof, I probably would have gone all out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Damn, Bud and here I was thinking I was going to catch up to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Chairs look great. I am not quite ready for those just yet. Soon maybe.
> 
> 
> Drew



I was thinking you were going to catchup as well. You'll get there. Keep in mind the seats will take at least 4 weeks once you order them....


Bud


----------



## jandawil

Seats look very comfy Bud...and beautiful. How high is your riser again and how is your line of site from the back row? I'm building mine this weekend and was planning on 10 3/4" (2X10" lumber with 3/4 plywood). Looking great though!!! Looking forward to seeing your finished GOM panels as well.


----------



## chinadog

Jon,


Very comfy.. I used 2x8s for the riser. With the 90s, the backs are a little high for the kids in the upright position. But if they're a little reclined, its fine. I have no problem, sat in the second row last night.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jon,
> 
> 
> Very comfy.. I ... sat in the second row last night.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud -- this must be MUCH better than the lawn chairs you had in there before. I bet the kids are having a blast sitting in these things too!


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



One question on your stage....In the picture above it looks like you have a huge roll of acoustical cotton layed down on the floor. Is that correct. If so what specific product is that and did you get it through bpape?? I didn't see the raw material on his website. Also how does it seem to work. I need to add more bass trapping to my HT. Is all your trapping for low frequencies behind your screen??


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thats an understatement. Now I can get those damn things out of the basement. They served their purpose though. Just very uncomfortable for movies.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One question on your stage....In the picture above it looks like you have a huge roll of acoustical cotton layed down on the floor. Is that correct. If so what specific product is that and did you get it through bpape?? I didn't see the raw material on his website. Also how does it seem to work. I need to add more bass trapping to my HT. Is all your trapping for low frequencies behind your screen??



Jon,


Correct, its acoustic cotton for bass control. Got it through Bryan (bpape). One other thing we did besides the acoustic cotton is the scrim that I used on the lower 12 inches on the wall over the linacoustic to help control the low frequencies. You can't see it now, it's behind the fabric. The acoustic cotton is also in corners diaginally above the speakers (I couldn't get it behind them, not enough room).


I'm pretty happy with the way things sound (acoustically and the speakers). I have not done any analysis yet, so not sure what my numbers looks like. I have to figure out how to do all of that still.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Boy those seats look comfy - I could sure use one right now


Enjoy


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Boy those seats look comfy - I could sure use one right now



You'll get there... you just need to deal with that drywall problem of yours.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Not sure I mentioned it with all the "excitement" of the carpet installation and the Berks coming in, but my cabinets for the bar and concession have now been ordered. It'll take about three weeks for them to construct them and get them installed. I sent them a check for 50% of the costs and they should have it today.


Funny, the guy was here Monday to measure and he laid out the cabinets in the bar area on the floor using blue tape. I guess its a right of passage for just movie screens an more.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, on the warped cabinet doors - was that a pricey fix? I assume they are going to just replace the doors? Is there a custom matching type service (up)charge? My POS builder-special kitchen cabinets are warping left and right. Not a priority, but eventually it needs to be addressed.



Dave,


FYI, just wanted to close the loop on the cabinet doors. The cabinet maker is replacing the two doors for free. Anyone you can call to get them to fix them for you?


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...blue tape. I guess its a right of passage for just movie screens an more.
> 
> 
> Bud



No doubt. So far I've used blue tape to layout my screen, stage, columns, and the steps into the theater. Not to mention using it for what its actually made for...


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,


We went with the low end "put together" cabinets from Home Depot (Mills Pride) for our small kitchenette, but in the end I'm not sure we saved all that much. Did you look at those at all?


----------



## chinadog

I did look, I was looking for something dark though and a few base cabinets I wanted didn't come in the size I needed. Also, because I had to have the bar designed so I could build the kick wall for the plumbing, I kind of shot myself in the foot with off the shelf cabinets. I have the MP cabinets in the laundry room and used them in my old house. These cabinets for the bar will be about half the price of what I would paid through HD. I would have had to install the HD ones and these will be installed for me, so I'm not complaining too much about the price.


You should be able to just purchase a new door though, right?


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Custom made for half the price? Certainly nothing to complain about there!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should be able to just purchase a new door though, right?
> 
> 
> Bud



I think you might have me confused with dc_pilgrim on this...


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Correct, sorry about that. Got too many things going on today.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud, thanks for the follow up on the doors. The sub who installed the kitchen are next to useless, so I'll probably go with some one else when I address it. It isn't a priority right now, just a point of curiousity.




> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by chinadog
> 
> ...blue tape. I guess its a right of passage for just movie screens an more.
> 
> 
> Bud
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt. So far I've used blue tape to layout my screen, stage, columns, and the steps into the theater. Not to mention using it for what its actually made for...



No doubt, my best friend has actually been self employed making murals of tape for more than a decade. Here is an example of his work:


----------



## johnson_sb

That's crazy silly...


----------



## garykagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Gary. How are you coming along?
> 
> 
> Bud




Coming along very well, check out my new pictures on my thread.


Thanks!


Gary


----------



## jerrodshook

Man Bud, I fall behind a couple days and spend a half hour just getting caught up. How do you like the Berk's? I'm leaning toward the powerbuy Roman has right now, but I just wish I could find some 90's to sit in. I found one place that had 94's and they were sweet! Unbelievable though how much more they were than Roman, or even Ben's prices. Congrats on being nearly done!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod, well, you're only 5 1/2-6 hours from here, just start driving! Love the 90s. Very comfortable for me. Would get them again. I also enjoy the power recline (and so do the kids).


Bud


----------



## sk8conz

What model and size was the Rack you went with ??


I downloaded the Middle Atlantic catalog, but it's HUGE (130+ pages) and the racks all look the same !!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sk8conz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What model and size was the Rack you went with ??
> 
> 
> I downloaded the Middle Atlantic catalog, but it's HUGE (130+ pages) and the racks all look the same !!!



Its a Middle Atlantic Slim 5-43. Bought it at BSWUSA . It was a great price at the time and included free shipping, but looks like you have to call them to get the price now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's crazy silly...



I second Steve, that IS crazy silly.... and cool. I expect that'll take some time to do!


Bud


----------



## BoblK

Hi Bud,


Your theater looks great ( along with the rest of the basement). I've been watching your progress for over a year. For the past year, as of today I have been living in China while my theater lives in Michigan! I was wondering how you got your name "Chinadog" I've got 2 years to go here so all of you guys on AVS forum need to stay real busy constantly upgrading







so I can read these while your sleeping!


Bob


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Most of his murals take about 10-12 hours to make, and are up for 24 hours. They tear down in about 5-10 minutes. All the figures are life size, to give you a sense of scale. It amazes me that he supports himself doing this. Its not a rich lifestyle (I do his taxes), but they get by. Pretty fun to do.


But enough of that digression.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BoblK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> Your theater looks great ( along with the rest of the basement). I've been watching your progress for over a year. For the past year, as of today I have been living in China while my theater lives in Michigan! I was wondering how you got your name "Chinadog" I've got 2 years to go here so all of you guys on AVS forum need to stay real busy constantly upgrading
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I can read these while your sleeping!
> 
> 
> Bob



Hey Bob. Thanks. About 8-9 years ago, we adopted a silver and black German Shepherd Dog from a GSD rescue in Raleigh, NC. At the time, there were no resues in GA, and I found the rescue online. We were going to visit my parents who used to live close to Raleigh (Lake Gaston) so we stopped in and picked her up. Her given name was "China". Great dog.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Most of his murals take about 10-12 hours to make, and are up for 24 hours. They tear down in about 5-10 minutes. All the figures are life size, to give you a sense of scale. It amazes me that he supports himself doing this. Its not a rich lifestyle (I do his taxes), but they get by. Pretty fun to do.
> 
> 
> But enough of that digression.



Interesting!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, got some work done over the weekend. I spent a few hours behind the rack on Saturday organizing wires. I basically unplugged everything, installed some bulk cable wallplates, installed some rack organizers (the kind for zip ties), rerouted a bunch of wires and zip tied them to the rack itself. Took a lot longer than expected. I also installed a Furman power conditioner that I got off ebay, installed a 2 space drawer (also ebay) and a three space rack for misc. stuff, like Xbox games and controllers. OH, forgot to mention that I bought a Xbox 360 and a few games, hooked everything up and of course tried it out some). BTW, I saw the Toshiba BluRay player demo at Circuit City and its spectacular!


Today, I secured the vanity to the wall ain the bathroom, trimmed out the bathroom base and quarter round and touched up the gameroom walls where I had gone back and remudded some bad spots. I also finally got all my tools back in their shelves and organized my workbench. I also hung a few of my vintage signs in the concession area.


I didn't have a chance to finish out the screen wall panels, but will try and get to those this week.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Pictures?!?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I'll take some tomorrow. Heading up to bed. I assume you're referring to the back of the rack? I'll take a couple of screenshots of the Xbox as well.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

All of the above. I need my weekly Chinadog Pics Fix.

Just giving you a hard time, keep up the great work.


----------



## neda




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OH, forgot to mention that I bought a Xbox 360 and a few games, hooked everything up and of course tried it out some). BTW, I saw the Toshiba BluRay player demo at Circuit City and its spectacular!
> 
> Bud



What a great purchase! I take the opportunity to congratulate you on an amazing project and excellent thread: I have learned a lot from your great posts. Which games did you pick with the 360?


What was being shown on the BluRay player?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neda* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What a great purchase! I take the opportunity to congratulate you on an amazing project and excellent thread: I have learned a lot from your great posts. Which games did you pick with the 360?
> 
> 
> What was being shown on the BluRay player?



Neda,


Thanks. I'm glad you found it helpful.


I've been out of the game player market for a while. I was looking for something "kid friendly", but most of the 360 games that are are rated "E" are sports games. When I bought my PS1 a while back, then game that made me pull out the wallet was Tiger Woods golf, so I ended up getting the TW PGA Golf 2006. The graphics are pretty nice, the playability is OK, but my son and I both enjoy it. I also bought Project Gotham Racing and Ghost Recon. I'll probably pick up Madden NFL 06 and Major League Baseball 2006 as well.


As far as the kid games, I was expecting more back compatibility with regular Xbox games. I did find a list of games that are backwards compatible when a MS patch is applied to the 360. I actually bought a few kids Xbox games on ebay yesterday like Spiderman, Scooby Doo, Sonic Mega Collection, and Sneakers. I think if these work, I'm in good shape. I already burned a DVD with the patch and attempted to install it, but it didn't work. I'll try again when one of the games comes in. We'll see what happens. Got my fingers crossed.


I may also go the PS3 route in the future because of the BluRay player, especially. I was looking at some of the threads about pre-ordering, but doubtful of the availability when they come out, so figure I've got another year there before there are sufficient quantities and where the HDDVD/BluRay war is. The demo I saw was not a movie, just a promotional disc that shows the capabilities of the player. The were showing some watchmatker put together a watch.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> All of the above. I need my weekly Chinadog Pics Fix.
> 
> Just giving you a hard time, keep up the great work.



Hard time? Nah. Need my own fix!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some pictures from the weekend.


Updated rack:










Behind the rack. The flash makes the black wall paint pretty bad. Maybe I'll touch it up at some point.


















Some of the signage:


























Bathroom updates (walls still need to be touched up):


















Bud


----------



## mrpergo

Hey Bud I don't see any flange on that supply line is it on your list of things to do?


----------



## chinadog

Actually, I got lucky the supply didn't interfere with the molding, so I need to pick one up and cut it in half to fit correctly. The plumber should be out this week to do the rest of the plumbing. I bite my tongue every time I saw that since I can do it, but just don't want to deal with it at this point. I guess I'm slowing down.


Bud


----------



## BoblK

Hi Bud,


Question on the power conditioner. I am not familiar with the Furman brand. Does that clean up noisy incoming power and also compensate for both low and high voltage? The power back home in Michigan seems pretty crappy from what I was used to in Indiana. I want to put something on my theater to help prolong the life of the components.


Bob


----------



## chinadog

Hey Bob. Furman is a pretty popular brand of power conditioners/surge protection. If you google "Furman" you'll get lots of hits from online vendors. They have many types and a wide price range. I'm sure you can find something to meet your needs. The one I bought was a simple one, the Furman M-8 and I didn't pay a lot for it. Check out their website for the specifics, you'll find it helpful I think.


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Hey Capt'n, your cables are looking ship-shape there.


You probably already know this but:

The "flange" for the water supply is called an escutcheon.

You can get hinged ones for installing on existing pipes.

No need to breakout the hacksaw, etc.


----------



## chinadog

Milt,


Thanks. Still a little more cleanup to do, but its getting there. Need to do the IR stuff next.


New word for me "escutcheon". I'll take a look. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Hey bud, didn't Panamax buy out Furman? I saw that there is a deal on the Belkin power conditioners on the deals thread. The company is offering it for a ridiculously low price. Did you see that or even consider it? I was thinking of going that route or looking into a Panamax model.


Drew


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


I'm somewhat familiar with Panamax, but no idea on them buying Furman. I didn't see the Belkin power conditioner deal. Was this the one you were referring to?

http://www.provantage.com/belkin-ap4...2~7BELD011.htm 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Milt,


On your hinged escutcheon, the reason I'll have to cut it in half is because the supply pipe actually sits right about the base molding, so it won't sit flush against the wall because the bottom half will be on the molding. top on the wall. I figured I'd just get a chrome one and cut it in half, then attach it to the wall, resting on the molding. That's a little ugly, but hey. One my father in law comes back to town, I'll have him move the supply up a few inches and that'll solve that.


Bud


----------



## tshepherd

Hey Bud,


What size doors did you put in (width) and did you have any trouble getting your Berkline's through them?


Thanks

Tom


----------



## chinadog

Tom,


The theater entrance door is a 32 inch. The one to the concession area is a 36 inch. The door to the equipment closet is a 30 inch.


As far as getting the seats in, no problem there at all. I didn't even have to take the door off. The seat backs are not attached when they're shipped, so that makes things a little easier. I had to turn the seats on their sides to put them through the door (again, no backs installed yet) and they fit no problem.


Bud


----------



## tshepherd

I was wondering about that as I looked at the Berks at a local dealer. I could obviously put in 36" doors, but it's just that much more wall space...


Thanks!

Tom


----------



## larryep

nice cable management Bud.


----------



## chinadog

Tom,


No problem.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Larry, Where you been man? Ahh, marathon movies for the last few weeks, huh? Your eyes must hurt.










The cable organizer at the top is an ebay purchase as well. It's a Gruber (not MA) item. Really helps to have something that moves the cables horizontally at the top since the cables cam in on the left side from the ceiling.


For those of you interested in this stuff, I bought it out on ebay pretty cheap. I'm sure MA has their own stuff but it works fine on the MA Slim 5.









Item number: 5879874485

Store name: Gruber Industries


This is another one out on ebay, I have this one as well, but the one I have installed is a little different. I'm not sure if I'll use it or not, but I have it.









Item number: 9743490724

Store name: Gruber Industries


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drew,
> 
> 
> I'm somewhat familiar with Panamax, but no idea on them buying Furman. I didn't see the Belkin power conditioner deal. Was this the one you were referring to?
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/belkin-ap4...2~7BELD011.htm
> 
> 
> Bud



Yep, thats the one.


Drew


----------



## chinadog

Holy smokes... we've surpassed Sandmans number of posts for his construction thread (not for views, not even close). Of course over a thousand replies were mine.







He must have a lot of activity on his screen forum though!


Here's to the next 2000 posts!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - nice work on cable management.....I'll bookmark those.


Mark


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, thats the one.
> 
> 
> Drew



Man, I just saw that and have been planning on getting the Belkin all along. How in the world can they sell that for the price listed? I wonder if you still get the warranty from Belkin?


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man, I just saw that and have been planning on getting the Belkin all along. How in the world can they sell that for the price listed? I wonder if you still get the warranty from Belkin?



I am going to look into it further and will let you know.


Drew


----------



## larryep

You are so right Bud. New lamp in projector and cleanup dust off of LCD's. Marathoning has been going on for the last 3 weeks. Have not done one thing to the basement. Wait I did bring down the cabinet filler (ordered from lowes)from the upstairs to the basement.










stargate has pushed my berkline order back to mid July dam!!

I guess it is for the best since I need to finish up.


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Could you walk us through each of the components in your rack? I'm curious as to what you all have there.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Sure. Pretty straight forward. I'll start from the top.


1. Yamaha RX-V2600 - 7.1 Channel Digital Home Theater Receiver

2. Kenwood KR-9030 - Very old receiver purchase, will use it to power the Aura shakers

3. Kenwood VR-507 - Old receiver. An ebay purchase ($88.00). Was going to use it for driving the Aura Shakers, but decided to use it to drive the CD player.

4. XBOX 360 - I installed the XBOX patch to allow some standard XBOX games to play. More info here 

5. Kenwood DP-M6620 - CD player. Another old purchase, has a six disc CD magazine and a single drawer. Will be used primarily for the gameroom and bar.

6. Motorola DCT6412 HDTV STB with dual hard drive PVR

7. Panasonic DVD-S97S - upscaling DVD player

8. Furman M-8 Power Conditioner 

9. Middle Atlantic 2 space locking drawer - for remotes, screws, instruction manuals, etc.

10. Middle Atlantic 3U shelf for storage until I get my cabinets installed in the concession area.

11. Middle Atlantic EB6 6 space blanks (two) 

12. Middle Atlantic VT2 2 space vent panel on the bottom.


The Kenwood KR-9030 and DP-M6620 I've had for about 17 years now. Sorry, no links. I was originally just going to use these in the gameroom and put them by the bar. When I started thinking about a rack and the IR control, I figured I might as well just put them in the rack as well. I ran IR to the bar and installed in ceiling speakers both in the bar and the gameroom. I also ran HDMI/component, RG59, RG6, CAT6 to the bar for a future plasma. I then bought the VR-507 to power the shakers. What I found out later is I can't use the Buffalo IR with the KR-9030. I just can't get it to work. So I decided to swap the purpose of the two. Once I get the shakers installed, I'll hook it up.


BTW, the Yamaha also has two zone compatibility and actually comes with a second remote. I still may use this feature and replace one Kenwood system entirely, but haven't thought through it yet.


----------



## rlindo

Looks great


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> stargate has pushed my berkline order back to mid July dam!!



Larry, when was your original date scheduled for? Why did they push it out?


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Yeah, Bud. And you've already surpassed my post count...


----------



## drsung

Bud,


Now that you have your seats in place how do you like your viewing distances to the screen? You listed 19' deep in your original post. I am assuming that's unfinished dimensions? What's your distance on the 1st row and 2nd row to the screen and how far off the back wall are you on the 2nd row?


It's looking like I will only have 20 feet of depth (was hoping for ~22) I want to make sure I can squeeze in 2 rows of Berk 90's and also 2 rear columns.


Thanks,

DrSung


----------



## chinadog

DrSung,


That's correct. About 19 feet unfinished, so with the screen wall, that's 14 inches, but the head position is about a foot or so from the back wall (not ideal, understand) and the seats have the "wallaway", so they only have to be about 3-4 inches off the back wall. So I'm guessing the viewing position is about 16.5-17.0 feet. I've been watching back there when the kids are watching movies, I let those two sit in the front row there. The head position (upright at least) is about at 10 feet now. I had to pull the seats forward a tad in order to have the back seats recline fully when the front seats are reclined. In a recline position, closer to 11 feet.


I watched "Finding Neverland" myself last night and sat in the front left seat (facing forward) and I find it great. The AE900 has no screen door from that distance and I find the screen to be large, but not too big where you're turning your head from side to side. I think it's worked out well.


The screen seems a little high to me when reclined, but not too much. I have room to move it a few inches down if I decide later. It's in a great position from the second row.


Have you decided on the projector? The reason I ask if you end up closer than you intend, you have to consider screen door in your projector options. I think (not sure), that I could have gotten away with the Sanyo Z4 without screen door worries at my current from row position. Keep that in mind when you're making your choice.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, Bud. And you've already surpassed my post count...



I need to get a life, I guess!










Bud


----------



## lektern

Thanks Bud, I was trying to figure out why there appeared to be three receivers in there.


> Quote:
> I think (not sure), that I could have gotten away with the Sanyo Z4 without screen door worries at my current from row position.



What made your final decision between Panny 900 and Sanyo Z4? I'm still on the fence between these two, and since I won't be able to view them in person I'm not sure which I'm getting. I'm only leaning a little toward the Panny right now due to what appears to be popular choice. Hey, if lots of other people buy it at least it may end up with more support/service availability.



> Quote:
> I need to get a life, I guess!



I thought remodeling was your life! Oh, then there's family. Oh drat, and that pesky thing called a job. I don't know what could be taking up all your time, I think you need more hobbies.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What made your final decision between Panny 900 and Sanyo Z4? I'm still on the fence between these two, and since I won't be able to view them in person I'm not sure which I'm getting. I'm only leaning a little toward the Panny right now due to what appears to be popular choice. Hey, if lots of other people buy it at least it may end up with more support/service availability.



There reason I went with the Panny was its flexibility of its throw, the lack of SD and the "out of the box" picture. The Sanyo is sharper, but takes more work to calibrate. I'm very happy with the PQ, especially at 1080i. There was one article that put me over the decision hump. I'll have to see if I can find that post. I think I sent it to Swithey or posted it in his thread. Will look.



> Quote:
> I thought remodeling was your life! Oh, then there's family. Oh drat, and that pesky thing called a job. I don't know what could be taking up all your time, I think you need more hobbies.



I'd like it to be! I enjoy this stuff. I may have some time coming up for some hobbies now that I'm almost done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A few quick updates.


Plumber is coming tomorrow to finish out the bathroom. I need to pick up the vanity mirror today at Lowes and install that once he's outta there.


We bought a leather couch and loveseat, some tables and lamps for the game room. Should be delivered next week.


Getting there....


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Man it must be nice! I am so ready to be done with my basement. I used to love heading downstairs to work, but after more than a year, it's just getting old. Everything looks great Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Jerrod. I can understand that. I have some mud on the ceiling on on part I fixed, haven't painted it though. Tired of painting... got two more doors to do as well ... tired of painting .... I wish I had just taken care of it the first time. I remember getting a paint in my shoulder when I was sanding and stopped. Never got back to it before painting. I'll need to get that done this weekend.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Bud,


I really admire your craftsmanship.


I have a question on the GOM, and I'm sorry if I missed it. Am I correct that there is about 3/4" of airspace between the GOM and the drywall on the upper half of your walls, or did you fill it with something?


----------



## larryep




PHP:


[QUOTE]Quote:
Larry, when was your original date scheduled for? Why did they push it out?
[/QUOTE]


bud

they ran out of the promo leather and are giving me an upgraded leather.which is fine with me since I need to finish anyway.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I really admire your craftsmanship.
> 
> 
> I have a question on the GOM, and I'm sorry if I missed it. Am I correct that there is about 3/4" of airspace between the GOM and the drywall on the upper half of your walls, or did you fill it with something?



Thanks for the reply.


Actually, its an inch. I used 5/4 lumber for furring strips to accommodate the 1" linacoustic. I had to cut about a foot or so off the top of the linacoustic in order to accommodate the seam (beveled edge) and I did put that remaining foot above the beveled edge. So technically, there is some stuff on the upper portion of the wall, but only about a foot. The rest is airspace. GOM is pretty tough, you'd neve know there was nothing behind it.


This was done due to Bryan's recommendation. I had a roll of poly batting to use, but he recommended I not use it due to his room calculations.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I worked on my screenwall panels yesterday. I still have the "tops" to do and I didn't have the right material to do so, but will make a run and finish that today.


The panels took longer than expected. I didn't take a bunch of photos during the construction, but the angled ones had some funky mitre cuts and I had to rip a few boards to get the right angles. Overall, it came out better than I expected. Very clean looking.


Here's looking at it from the top down on the sub side. If you look close you can see the detail of the cuts (covered by GOM of course).


















A front shot:










I actually built 5 panels (two sub panels, two angled panels and the large one covering the front channel under the screen). The sub panels slip into the grove in the wall (I did this for the upper panels for the LR channels) and a friction fit to the angled panels. The angled panels are attached using 2" brads to the screen frame. I was going to friction fit the larger frame in order to get to the center channel, but decided to use brads on it as well. I can get to the center channel by removing the screen, so no harm there. The panel wood was slightly warped, so this allowed me to get a clean line.


I'll build the little angled tops today and that'll wrap that up.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> bud
> 
> they ran out of the promo leather and are giving me an upgraded leather.which is fine with me since I need to finish anyway.
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Gotcha, well that works out then.
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Looks great Bud. Are the top panels the last thing you need to do to complete the construction?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mike,


For the screenwall at least. I still have the front panel for the hush box and wating on my cabinets for the concession area and some minor misc stuff for both the HT room and the rest of the basement.


Bud


----------



## r00ster

Bud, the panels look great. Did you just use 408 Black FR701-2100 series of GOM to cover them. The pictures don't look anything like the 408 sample I have.


Drew


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was done due to Bryan's recommendation. I had a roll of poly batting to use, but he recommended I not use it due to his room calculations.
> 
> 
> Bud



So it would seem that a little "liveness" is desirable.


----------



## Milt99

Bud,

In attaching the panels with 2" brads;

Am I correct in that you just shot the brads through the "face" of the GOM into the screenwall framing and that the brads are basically hidden behind the GOM?


The reason I ask is that I am treating my door like the rest of the room and will be building GOM covered frames to cover it.

I bought a roll of the industrial velcro but shooting brads would be simpler.


----------



## BritInVA

As usual - prefect finishing on thos panels. Great job!


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> In attaching the panels with 2" brads;
> 
> Am I correct in that you just shot the brads through the "face" of the GOM into the screenwall framing and that the brads are basically hidden behind the GOM?




That worked for me. Just make sure the brads countersink a bit. The GOM is pourous so the holes from the brads are un-noticable. I couldn't even find where I put brads in my ceiling with a bright light after I was done.


Looking good Bud!


Ruben


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> the brads countersink a bit



Yup. Cranked up the air about 25lbs to the Senco. Seemed to work.

Thanks.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> In attaching the panels with 2" brads;
> 
> Am I correct in that you just shot the brads through the "face" of the GOM into the screenwall framing and that the brads are basically hidden behind the GOM?
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is that I am treating my door like the rest of the room and will be building GOM covered frames to cover it.
> 
> I bought a roll of the industrial velcro but shooting brads would be simpler.



Milt,


That's correct, through the panel frames (covered with GOM) and into the framing of the screenwall. The frames we're about an inch thick, maybe a little more. Is your door solid?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, the panels look great. Did you just use 408 Black FR701-2100 series of GOM to cover them. The pictures don't look anything like the 408 sample I have.
> 
> 
> Drew



Drew, thanks. Yes, black 408 FR701-2100. I had it left over from the screen wall and the soffits. It could be just the picture.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So it would seem that a little "liveness" is desirable.



That's correct, you definately don't want it too dead.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As usual - prefect finishing on thos panels. Great job!
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Mark, thanks. My wife saw the panels for the first time today and asked me if I bought the panels! I guess she was figured since they looked good I must have bought them, go figure!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SandmanX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Bud!
> 
> 
> Ruben



Thanks Ruben. Love your blue lights. Now you've got me thinking about trying them out.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Yeah, those blue lights look cool as hell. I think I'm back to doing a tray or at least crown and putting in blue rope lights!


Good lookin stage Bud! I'll bet you had fun with those mitre cuts....


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Real nice job on the panels. They do take longer that expected to cut and assemble.


The front stage looks awesome. Hope you won't be spending too much time vacuuming it. We'll just name it "The HTLM" (HT Lint Magnet)


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Hey Bud, I just got back into town and I am catching up on everyones threads.


Things are looking great. You can never go wrong with good cable management.


Isnt it great when you hear comments like your wife made? You know all the hard work is worth it once you hear something like that.


Ronnie


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

Are you using 5/4 boards again for these panels? It looks like a nice size to work with for that purpose.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Is your door solid?



Yup. A 36" 1.75" mahogany solid core exterior door.

After asking the question, I stapled some GOM around the pine framing material and shot some brads through it. 125 psi countersunk the brad nicely.

Another good tip Bud. Thanks again.

BTW your screenwall looks killer.

Did you contract out those panels?


----------



## Toxarch

Bud, looks good so far. Looks like you did some planning ahead on those front panels and the cuts on them. Keep up the good work.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good lookin stage Bud! I'll bet you had fun with those mitre cuts....



Jerrod,


Took some thinking on my part for sure. I had to pull out the table saw to get the right cuts for the vertical pieces. I need to put on another blade, I think I ruined it with the laminate flooring.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The front stage looks awesome. Hope you won't be spending too much time vacuuming it. We'll just name it "The HTLM" (HT Lint Magnet)



Steve,


With the dogs, I'm constantly picking hair off of it. Its not the dogs themselves, its the the kids going up and down on it and they pick up dog hair on their socks. Oh well, the price we pay for perfection!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I just got back into town and I am catching up on everyones threads.
> 
> 
> Things are looking great. You can never go wrong with good cable management.
> 
> 
> Isnt it great when you hear comments like your wife made? You know all the hard work is worth it once you hear something like that.
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Ronnie,


Welcome back. I hope you're well rested. I could make the back of the rack a little cleaner, I didn't cut any cables since I initially hooked everything up. I have some slack, but figured I'd wait a while in case I rearrange some components. I'd hate to then be short. Probably overthinking it....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Are you using 5/4 boards again for these panels? It looks like a nice size to work with for that purpose.



Steve,


Yes, Its the 5/4 lumber I had left over for the furring strips. its 5/4x4 and I had ripped it in half. when I made the beveled edges for the seams. I used full width pieces (not ripped) around the ceiling and floor for the crown and base molding. They sell it at Orange in 9 foot sections for about 5 bucks. It's no by the 2x4s and that lumber, its over where the hardwoods are. You may have to ask someone (if you can find someone or rather if you can find someone that might have a clue).


I had to search through a bunch to get the good ones....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yup. A 36" 1.75" mahogany solid core exterior door.
> 
> After asking the question, I stapled some GOM around the pine framing material and shot some brads through it. 125 psi countersunk the brad nicely.
> 
> Another good tip Bud. Thanks again.
> 
> BTW your screenwall looks killer.
> 
> Did you contract out those panels?



Ha. Thanks for the comments. Glad it worked out for you.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, looks good so far. Looks like you did some planning ahead on those front panels and the cuts on them. Keep up the good work.



Thanks man!


Bud


----------



## tshepherd

That screenwall looks amazing Bud. Quite an inspiration for the rest of us.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tshepherd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That screenwall looks amazing Bud. Quite an inspiration for the rest of us.



Thanks!


Bud


----------



## danskim

You did a really great job on your room.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danskim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You did a really great job on your room.



Well thanks and welcome to the forum.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - was looking for the 5/4 lumber in HD. Couldn't find it - have you got a SKU or pic?


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Sorry, no SKU, but next time I'm there I'll get it for you. All the furring strips in these pictures (everything but the screenwall) is 5/4 lumber. They sort of look like 2x4s, but not as thick. In our store, it's stacked vertically in the same row as the hardwood, but across from it.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...ous/page2.html 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I did some work in the basement today, mostly painting doors in the gameroom, but that's done now. I worked on the top panels tonight to finally complete the screen wall. I used 3/16" masonite (I think its called that, its peg board material without the holes). I put a piece on top of the sub box, traced it out, then cut it with Ronnie's circle (dremel) tool. I then sanded it down to a smooth finish with a drywall sponge, used 3M spray adhesive and black GOM to finish it out. I then used 1" brads to secure it to the screen wall.


Pictures are a little dark, even with all the lights on and a flash!


Left side:










Right side:










Finished shots:


















I'm very happy with how the panels came out. Oh and I see that white speck. I'll take care of that tomorrow. That's the end of the roll of the black GOM. I forgot to remove that. I just saw it in the pictures.


Next step is to finish the projector box.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I put a piece on top of the sub box, traced it out, then cut it with Ronnie's circle (dremel) tool.




LOL, thats a nice little tool huh?


Looks excellent. Whats the sku # for those panels?










Ronnie


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ronnie_jackson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL, thats a nice little tool huh?
> 
> 
> Looks excellent. Whats the sku # for those panels?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie



Yes, and I still need to do the rings for the 4" cans. I used it tonight for the first time. Seems the bit had a semi-rough time getting through the 3/16 stuff. Did you use 1/4" for your rings?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - was looking for the 5/4 lumber in HD. Couldn't find it - have you got a SKU or pic?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



I take that back. Here is the SKU: *567180* . I found it browsing the lumber section of my HD store. I can't believe I actually found it!











Bud


----------



## SmX

That stage looks real stealth Bud! Awesome job on the panels, and yes, I'm always watching










Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Ruben.


Post more pictures of Jenna and I'll be watching your thread full time and abandoning mine (and my HT)!










Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, and I still need to do the rings for the 4" cans. I used it tonight for the first time. Seems the bit had a semi-rough time getting through the 3/16 stuff. Did you use 1/4" for your rings?
> 
> 
> Bud



Ya, I used 1/4" for my rings. The dremel is not much good for the thick stuff or big jobs.


Ronnie


----------



## lektern

Bud, your work continues to impress.

Every DIYer here,

If you don't already own a Rotozip you should. I've owned mine for four years now and love it. It has a circle cutting attachment and has no trouble going through 3/4" plywood, 5/8 drywall, or even 1.5" plaster. I also have the disc cutting attachment which has come in handy more than once. This tool is not just infomercial hype.


----------



## BritInVA

Thanks for the SKU Bud.


And great job on that Stage - looks awesome!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Looking great Bud! I'm slow going but getting somewhere finally. I'll have pics up tomorrow.


Gary


----------



## rsberg34

Stage looks awsome Bud....


You did a great job on those pannels...everything fits together so clean...looks great!


Robert


----------



## Geoff Scott

Well done Bud! A beautiful job. I hope you get to put your feet up and enjoy it with the family soon!


Cheers,


Geoff


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking great Bud! I'm slow going but getting somewhere finally. I'll have pics up tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Gary



Thanks Gary, looking forward to seeing your progress.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stage looks awsome Bud....
> 
> 
> You did a great job on those pannels...everything fits together so clean...looks great!
> 
> 
> Robert



Thanks. We had some neighbors over yesterday for a BBQ, I pulled off the sub panel to show someone the sub, it fits nice and snug in there. No need for magnets or velcro. Worked out great.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geoff Scott* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well done Bud! A beautiful job. I hope you get to put your feet up and enjoy it with the family soon!
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Geoff



Thanks Geoff! We've been enjoying it for some time, in various finished states, but it's definately nice to finally say its done (well, mostly).


Welcome to the forum.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Again -- nice job! I like the look of the stained trim along the top of the screen wall. I was wondering how it would look (in my room) and now I know it will look great.


BTW -- Did you buy your solid pine doors from HD or a local door store? I planned on buying one nice mahogany, cherry or maple 2 or 6 paneled door for the theater entrance. For the equipment closet, I planned on a cheap "flat" solid-core (since it will have a fabric panel hanging on it anyway) and putting maple veneer on the HT side with paint on the other. Depending on the cost, I may just buy (2) flat doors and add the veneer and panels to the entry door myself.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Yes, Home Depot for the doors. On the trim, I wasn't sure I liked it originally, but I'm good with it now. It completely disappears during a movie too.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A few things yesterday. We had some furniture for the gameroom delivered. Also, my poster frames (ebay store: Hollywoodposterframes or www.hollywoodposterframes.com ) arrived. I think I mentioned I picked up some repro vintage horror movie posters to scatter around the basement. I may put some in the concession room as well. All these are 11x17 and I bought these on ebay. Twenty posters for like 60.00, although I don't like all of them and only plan on using about half maybe.


Here are eight that I had frames for:










Furniture (still needs area rugs, blinds and paint on the windows, but this gives you an idea.
http://images17.fotki.com/v313/photo...-vi.jpg?800600 


Bud


----------



## hltr

C-Dog


In your spare time (lol) it would be great if you could update us with a list showing your original projected items, budget, actual item used, and real cost. For example:


Projected----------Budget----------Actual----------Cost

Pergo--------------$3,000----------Armstrong-----$3,250


Even just the last two columns would be awesome.


----------



## chinadog

hltr,


I have all my receipts and I need to put them in a spreadsheet. Many of the item costs will be blurred across the basement and HT room. For instance, I bought speaker wire for the whole basement, so I won't be able to break out just the room itself. When I can, I'll work on that spreadsheet. I did post a while back some planned versus actual costs, I can probably modify that sooner than looking at individual receipts.


Bud


----------



## hltr

I for one am interested in the whole basement, so I'll take whatever you have, even if the numbers are rough. Product list is really what I'm after.


----------



## chinadog

Here's an update of what I did before. As you can see, there were a few extras that I didn't really budget for and that through me over. I also went with 6 seats instead of 5. Overall, if you factor in those things, I wasn't too much over. maybe 1750.00 before you factor in the other things. About 1K of the over budget was concession area related.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the basement costs minus the HT room, except for those blurred items. There is an overlap in lumber, drywall, flooring, etc. You can't just add the two together. Also, I had the HVAC and electrical service put in when the house was built. I included these in the costs here, but those items were rolled up in the overall cost of the house.











EDIT: Made a few changes.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Great documentation. I didn't see any first aid supplies. That must be a first. And you can't count beer as first aid. Ibuprofin yes, beer no.


----------



## chinadog

I left the beer costs blank for that very reason. I'm happy I didn't loose any digits during the process. My neighbor (the builder) lost a few tips during his laminate floor install last year when he did his!


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



You forgot "Having one sweet looking kick a$$ home theater that will give you and many visitors the WOW Factor for years to come"...........Priceless


Well done Bud. Very few people have a basement that you would actually like to spend more time in than the actual house. You have accomplished that.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Jon. We had neighbors over on the 4th and boy, was the HT a hit. A few people knew what I was up to but didn't realize to what extent. People hear you talk about it and see pieces of it, but if they don't understand this stuff it. Goes in one ear and out the other until they see the final result. There are a few others now talking about doing HT rooms, looks like I'll have my fingers in some other builds as well now







....


Bud


----------



## ebr

Be careful, Bud. I have people all over the neighborhood asking me to help them with this or that for a HT - and none of them have even seen the new room yet. One of my friends has a small home building business "on the side" and I have now helped him put a room in two of his spec homes. Not done to the extent of my rooms but still big hits with the "Homearama" crowds.


This stuff can snowball on you so you might have to start charging a fee - at least a six pack or two anyway...


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Understand. I was thinking more in line "what to do", not actually "helping to do". I would expect I would get roped some into the later. Answer questions, that sort of thing. Of the 4 male neighbors that were here, I would expect that one was halfway serious about a HT room as part of a whole basement finished and he's at least a year off from what I understand. For now, I'll be hiding away in my HT room.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Thanks for the list!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Appreciate the budget updates. Very helpful to me. I am sure you said so, but what's the total SQ FT for the basement?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I'm thinking I finished around 1200. Had a hard time finding the posts with the measurements. I drywalled my storage room as well (included in that total), just did not do the ceiling since it allows me to run cables/electric in case I need something later. The storage room also has heat/AC/return and I move the return in the concession area to get some additional airflow, although the fan in the closet does a great job. That room also has a larger supply and I may swap them out eventually if I need to.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...00#post7239316 


Bud


----------



## armystud0911

Well I have spent at least 20 hours reading the entire thread but it was well worth it. You have done an amazing job with this project Bud, and I was most impressed with your budget. You have now officially inspired me to build my own home theater someday (don't know if thats a bad thing or not yet). The depressing thing was that I kept on thinking that you were blowing away 10's of thousands of dollars on this. You have done a marvelous job of keeping costs down while maintaining quality, and for that, I present you with.... drum roll............................................ THE THUMBS UP SMILEY









Your an ispiration, keep it up.


----------



## armystud0911

Sorry bout that, double post, not sure what happened


----------



## chinadog

armystud0911,


Thanks and welcome. The idea was to try and get the best bang for the buck, doing most of the work myself (with a little help from my father-in-law and Dad when required). I'm sure the room itself would have cost me a lot more if I had hired it out and there is just no way I would have done that.


As for the rest of the basement. I'm hearing from neighbors of quotes around 75K for a basement finish (no HT room, no bar - just finished rooms and a bathroom) and my costs would have been around 25K (with no HT room, if you compare apples to apples). Three years ago, the builder wanted about 50K. Katrina hit, materials went through the roof and everything is more expensive now.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> armystud0911,
> 
> 
> Thanks and welcome. The idea was to try and get the best bang for the buck, doing most of the work myself (with a little help from my father-in-law and Dad when required). I'm sure the room itself would have cost me a lot more if I had hired it out and there is just no way I would have done that.
> 
> 
> As for the rest of the basement. I'm hearing from neighbors of quotes around 75K for a basement finish (not HT room, no bar - just finished rooms and a bathroom) and my costs would have been around 25K (with no HT room, if you compare apples to apples). Three years ago, the builder wanted about 50K. Katrina hit, materials went through the roof and everything is more expensive now.
> 
> 
> Bud



I got estimates ranging from $75-95,000 to finish mine. And that was just regular old stuff... I'm at half that cost and have included all my electronics and everything else. Like you, me and the rest of us DIY'ers, you can certainly get more bang for your buck if you are willing to take the time to do it..... and if your wife is willing to spend less time with you for a year or so!


----------



## hltr

Yeah, I would think it would easily be three times what you spent to contract it out. I would imagine your house would now command top dollar in your neighborhood, no?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, I would think it would easily be three times what you spent to contract it out. I would imagine your house would now command top dollar in your neighborhood, no?



I certainly hope so!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like you, me and the rest of us DIY'ers, you can certainly get more bang for your buck if you are willing to take the time to do it..... and if your wife is willing to spend less time with you for a year or so!



A year is about right for a full basement. Mine took a little more since I had to do the storage room and workshop first. I really had some marathon weekends, my wife sure put up with a lot. Team effort!


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Coming along beautifully. Thanks a bunch for the budget sheet also. It's helping me compare my budget sheet. I've got 15k budgeted specifically for the HT. Probably another 5-10k for the rest of the basement. Doing everything ourselves except for cabinets, and I'm still tempted to do those myself. I might be able to talk my cousin into helping me do those.

The big advantage I have is that my wife enjoys remodeling projects as much as I do. So she will be downstairs helping. And we have the only grandchild on my wife's side, so there is no shortage of babysitters. Woohoo! I'll be off for a couple months when I get back, plan to use that time to make major progress on the build. Hope to have the whole basement done in less than six months. Wish me luck!

Again, your thread continues to be an inspiration to the Quality Conscious DIYer.


----------



## miltimj

Cabinets are a piece of cake.. certainly not one of the last things I'd do.. there are much more difficult tasks than that. Go for it!


----------



## chinadog

Got a question for you guys. Since organizing my equipment closet and putting the plates on the outlets in the closet, I get an occasional sound from the sub, even though there is no source playing or equipment even on. It's a short 1 second burst, only on occasion, sometimes two or three in a row, then I won't hear anything for a while. Once in a while it does it during a movie as well.


I mentioned the wall plates because I had one outlet that was not screwed into the box. I was experimenting with grounding the IR for the gameroom (long IR run) at one point and I'm thinking that I might have a loose ground. I'll have to double check. The equipment is on its own dedicated circuit. I have two circuits in the equipment rack, the second is also the circuit that is sub is on. I don't think its a ground loop issue.


Anyone else have any suggestions? Again, this never happened until I organized the rack, added to power conditioner (sub is not on connected to it) and secured that outlet in the box and put the plate on it. I've tried different outlets (on the same circuit), same thing.


Bud


----------



## ebr

How is the sub hooked up to the source? Do you have any head-end equipment (like a BFD or something)? As long as the outlet the sub is on is truly on your dedicated circuit, I doubt its a power line issue because its not constant. It is probably something being generated by the source equipment or the sub amp itself.


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


Its a simple connection. I ran RG6 and connected it to the output sub connection. I double checked the connectors and after hearing the problem, I went ahead and replaced the connector on the sub side, just in case. I am using crimp on RCA connectors for now, until I get a decent compression tool. Not sure that's it.

http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/Imag...P_RX-V2600.jpg 


The outlet the sub is connected to is not the same circuit as the equipment, it's on the the same circuit as the room outlets.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Just as a quick test you might want to run an extension cord to get that sub on your power conditioner.


----------



## chinadog

I was thinking about that last night. It's pretty infrequent, but it is annoying. I'd have to sit in the room for a while and listen for it.


Bud


----------



## hltr

It will only take you a minute and you'll at least know a little more. If it is still there I would take the sub to the rack, plug it in there and check again. If it is gone at that point you'll at least have it narrowed to your cable run.


----------



## chinadog

I'll definately have to try that tonight. I should pull the outlet cover off and check the electrical connections in the closet.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Of course, could be the sub. Would be a drag. My first goal in any case would be getting that thing plugged/patched anywhere the behavior would stop, if it will.


----------



## chinadog

I did work on some this weekend. I started painting the sashes in the gameroom. I also hung a ceiling fan, pendants for the bar and and a light over an old kitchen table we put in the basement for now. I 'll replace it with a pub table or a homemade poker table eventually. I expect the cabinets for the bar will be in this week. Its been three weeks, although the holiday was in there, so not sure how that'll impact the schedule. Worst case, it'll be next week.


Couple of shots of the lighting:

http://images18.fotki.com/v328/photo...00_1530-vi.jpg 
http://images12.fotki.com/v2/photos/...00_1531-vi.jpg 
http://images1.fotki.com/v7/photos/6...00_1534-vi.jpg 
http://images1.fotki.com/v7/photos/6...00_1532-vi.jpg 


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> The outlet the sub is connected to is not the same circuit as the equipment, it's on the the same circuit as the room outlets.
> 
> 
> Bud



Aha - and who knows what else... Okay, like everyone else said, get that thing on the dedicated outlet and see if it goes away. It could be anything in the house - like the AC unit going on or off...


----------



## chinadog

The thing that irks me is it didn't do this before I messed with the rack/outlet, so that's what I why I was thinking its a loose ground. I'm not electrician, but the outlets in the room and are all downstream of the outlet in the closet. I would think that if it was a ground issue, the GFCI would have tripped.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Well, not to beat a dead horse, but I've done my share of tracking down hum, etc. Imagine your surprise if you carry that sub to the rack and patch/plug it there and it STILL behaves that way. That has to be your first move imo. If it is fine in that position then you can come back and tell me "I told you so" but at least you will eliminate that possibility and can move on to more time consuming tests. 


Damn, you've come too far on this project to have sound issues!! Get that sucker solved!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Damn, you've come to far on this project to have sound issues!! Get that sucker solved!



Thats for sure!


Bud


----------



## garykagan

How about trying this device:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=172282 


It's a ground loop isolator.


From the Manufacturer

Ever wondered why sometimes your stereo speakers start to hum when you plug certain components in?

The most likely cause of humming in audio equipment is due to a ground loop in your home or apartment mains power wiring. A ground loop occurs through differences in resistance in the electrical system. When you connect your computer to your stereo, a path is provided for electricity to flow from one wall socket to another as the electrical system tries to balance itself. This causes your speakers to hum.


Xitel's ground loop isolator has been fully designed, built and tested to exacting standards for high fidelity audio applications. It works by breaking the earth between your computer or audio components and stereo so there's no path for current from an electrical imbalance to flow. This prevents your speakers from humming! It's a simple and effective way of eliminating ground loop issues without having to resort to an electrician.


Turn the power of your computer or audio component and home stereo system off. Plug the cable end of the ground loop isolator marked stereo directly into your stereo RCA input. Plug the RCA cable running from your computer or audio component into the RCA connectors on the ground loop isolator marked input. That's all there is to it! No more ground loop hum!


Product Description

Xitel Ground Loop Isolator - The most likely cause of speaker hum is due to something called a ground loop. A ground loop occurs through differences in resistance in the electrical system. When a computer or audio component is connected to an amplifier, a path is provided for electricity to flow from one wall socket to another as the electrical system tries to balance itself. This causes speakers to hum! The Xitel Ground Loop Isolator goes between your audio equipment's connection, breaking that ground loop and stopping the annoying hum!


----------



## garykagan

Bud - I have a question for you on that power conditioner - looks good and inexpensive. I ran 2 dedicated 20 amp lines to my rack. I have not terminated them yet. If I were to buy a power conditioner, do you know if could I use a 15 amp conditioner in a 20 amp outlet?


Gary


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How about trying this device:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=172282
> 
> 
> It's a ground loop isolator.



I'm not convinced I have a ground loop problem yet since its not a consistent hum. Thanks for the link. I have an outlet tester and the closet one tested OK. I just did that. I also pulled out the sub and the little red light was on in the back. I have no signal driving the sub, but need to go investigate that. Normally its green.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I have a question for you on that power conditioner - looks good and inexpensive. I ran 2 dedicated 20 amp lines to my rack. I have not terminated them yet. If I were to buy a power conditioner, do you know if could I use a 15 amp conditioner in a 20 amp outlet?
> 
> 
> Gary



Gary, no electrician here, but I think it would work fine. It does have a fuse, so I would think that that would protect it and the equipment attached to it. Again, not an electrician....


Bud


----------



## miltimj

IANAE either, but I know for a fact that it won't be a problem. If the device you're plugging in is UL listed and shows less or equal amperage (and the same voltage of course) than the circuit you're plugging into, you're good.


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I were to buy a power conditioner, do you know if could I use a 15 amp conditioner in a 20 amp outlet?
> 
> 
> Gary



I'm no electrician but as far as I know, you will be fine. I have two 15 amp conditioners plugged into two 20 amp circuits in my own rack.


----------



## garykagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm no electrician but as far as I know, you will be fine. I have two 15 amp conditioners plugged into two 20 amp circuits in my own rack.



Thanks miltimj and Toxarch! Gotta love this thread!


I'll be picking one of those up for sure,


Gary


----------



## garykagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gary, no electrician here, but I think it would work fine. It does have a fuse, so I would think that that would protect it and the equipment attached to it. Again, not an electrician....
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud - with all the electrical work you have done, you should have an associates degree at least...


gk


----------



## Allen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced I have a ground loop problem yet since its not a consistent hum. Thanks for the link. I have an outlet tester and the closet one tested OK. I just did that. I also pulled out the sub and the little red light was on in the back. I have no signal driving the sub, but need to go investigate that. Normally its green.
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


The red light makes me think of the auto-on feature that many subs have. If they receive no signal for a period of time they turn off to a wait state. If you send signal to it does the light turn green? If the sub is going into and out of a wait state, it can make a noise.


As you can often not tell whether a signal is going to the sub or not, they can switch off in the middle of a program, only to switch back on when some signal reaches them. Some people recommend keeping the sub at it's on position rather than auto for this very reason.


Allen


----------



## chinadog

Allen,


Thats what I was going to double check. When I looked and it was red, there was no signal. I saw that same recommendation in the PDF user manual, although I don't see an on/off/auto switch, just an on/off switch.


I just doubled checked, switch is not there. Light is green when a source is applied. Not a peep out of it all day (when idle) from what I can tell.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garykagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud - with all the electrical work you have done, you should have an associates degree at least...
> 
> 
> gk



You would think.. I don't like to mess with it much. Been shocked one too many times, I guess.


Bud


----------



## Allen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Allen,
> 
> 
> Thats what I was going to double check. When I looked and it was red, there was no signal. I saw that same recommendation in the PDF user manual, although I don't see an on/off/auto switch, just an on/off switch.
> 
> 
> I just doubled checked, switch is not there. Light is green when a source is applied. Not a peep out of it all day (when idle) from what I can tell.
> 
> Bud




Bud,


This picture of a HSU sub shows an on - auto - off power switch. It is a VTF2 Mk 2. IS it different than yours? (I realize you just told me you checked and your switch is only on off, I'm just stumped)




Allen


----------



## chinadog

Allen,


I think I have the original VTF2. I bought it used, so I assume that's the difference.

http://images2.fotki.com/v332/photos...00_1536-vi.jpg 
http://images18.fotki.com/v331/photo...00_1537-vi.jpg 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got a call from the cabinet place. The cabinets will be installed on Monday, the 24th. They'll actually deliver them on Sunday the 23rd.


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The thing that irks me is it didn't do this before I messed with the rack/outlet, so that's what I why I was thinking its a loose ground. I'm not electrician, but the outlets in the room and are all downstream of the outlet in the closet. I would think that if it was a ground issue, the GFCI would have tripped.
> 
> 
> Bud



When I first connected my sub it had a hum. Boy was it ticked. Just like you "All this work and a hum....". The first problem I though was the rack/sound processor and the sub were on two different circuits.


So now what? I started with an extension power cord to connect the sub to the same circuit as the sound processor. Still got a hum. I then though maybe it is the in-wall low voltage connection from the rack to the sub. So I built a new from scratch sub cable from bulk RJ59 cable and screw on RCA connectors, so that could be reused, after the test. The HUM was gone.


As it turned out the in wall wiring and connections were just fine. BUT the patch cable, that I bought, was bad. I did all the in-wall and rack cables. The one cable I purchased was the problem.


So the hum came down to a bad professionally built cable


----------



## chinadog

Greg, thanks for the reply. If I change the phase, I'll get a hum, but it seems to be fine when one phase is selected. The sound is like a one second "BRRRFFFFFTTT" (if that sound could be described in a pseudo word).


Your post made me think. I don't have a means for replacing the cable in the wall, but I might have enough slack from the right corner cable I prewired for. I could even attempt to move the sub to that corner if it wasn't long enough. If I had to, I could open up the side wall of the equipment closet and that would allow me to get to run another cable, so if tis definitely the cable, I can get around it. I was down there last night watching a little HD and did not hear it stray sounds at all. I'll have to keep an ear out and see if I continue to get the sound.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I hooked up the right side sub cable to the sub tonight. Same outlet and same result. Need to run an power extension to the conditioner to check that out still. My guess is there is a sub problem, although I'll do some more testing. I may call Hsu in the morning as well.


EDIT: I posted in the Hsu forums about the problem. Hopefully I get a response over there.



Bud


----------



## hltr

Certainly starting to sound like the sub is the culprit. Some sort of weird discharge.


----------



## chinadog

Just got an email back from Hsu technical support. They said if the sound still occurs without the cable connected (only power), its the subs amp. I noticed it did this the other day, hence the faulty ground conclusion. Maybe the timing was coincidental with the equipment organization. Who knows. I replied back to their tech support to see how much it would be to fix it. Shipping alone will be 50.00 to get it there and back I'm sure. Probably at least 100.00 to fix it, so I might just bite it an order a new one. I went down to make sure the new VTF2 would fit in my sub box.. looks like I have about 1/2 inch to spare! The new model is about 3 inches higher than the older one.


Bud


----------



## hltr

I bet they have a darn good idea what would cause it. I wonder if they would send you a part.


----------



## chinadog

I received back a response from Hsu technical support and my options are to spend 100-150 (not sure this includes shipping) or buy the new MK2 amplifier for 200.00 and retro fit it. Apparently there a few things required to make it fit.


Sounds like I'll be purchasing a new sub today.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I received back a response from Hsu technical support and my options are to spend 100-150 (not sure this including shipping) or buy the new MK2 amplifier for 200.00 and retro fit it. Apparently there a few things required to make it fit.
> 
> 
> Sounds like I'll be purchasing a new sub today.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


That is a real bummer on your sub. It does not seem like you have had it that long -- like less than 1 year? How long was the original warranty?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Bought it used through Audiogon. Tried to save a few bucks. It was the previous model, I recently realized (not the MK2). I got it in December I think. $hit happens...


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud, did you ask Hsu if you could just carefully remove the amp only and send it back instead of the entire thing?


Just curious...


sux to hear that happend.


----------



## miltimj

I would buy a PE plate amp of similar power and retrofit it on there. Other than size, it doesn't really matter. You could also get something like a Crown XLS series rackmountable amp which gives you more flexibility in the future to use it elsewhere, and convert your HSU to a passive configuration, by taking off the existing amp and running wires to the outside. A dual-jack connector is like $4 at PE. That'd be a cheaper and better (IMO) alternative to buying new. I just hate to see an otherwise good sub go to waste..


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, did you ask Hsu if you could just carefully remove the amp only and send it back instead of the entire thing?
> 
> 
> Just curious...
> 
> 
> sux to hear that happend.



I didn't ask and yes, it sucks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would buy a PE plate amp of similar power and retrofit it on there. Other than size, it doesn't really matter. You could also get something like a Crown XLS series rackmountable amp which gives you more flexibility in the future to use it elsewhere, and convert your HSU to a passive configuration, by taking off the existing amp and running wires to the outside. A dual-jack connector is like $4 at PE. That'd be a cheaper and better (IMO) alternative to buying new. I just hate to see an otherwise good sub go to waste..



Tim, I follow your logic, but not sure I want to mess with it.


Bud


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim, I follow your logic, but not sure I want to mess with it.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud, I hear ya and understand you not wanting to mess with it, but those crown Amps kick butt, are cheap, and are easy to work with. I have one (602) running my mains and LOVE it. It would be pretty easy to do actually and will cost you less than $300 or closer to $200 if you go with a 402 series and bridge it. On the 602 you could run one channel for the SW and another for your center. Your center will sound better and it will also relieve some of the stress of the Yammy which could help the all around sound to the rest of your speakers. Or you can just say F*&% it and buy a new sub which we would completely understand. Just an option though.


----------



## KERMIE

Bud, I like your Avater Picture, Kinda makes you look like the Dr. Phil of HT


----------



## chinadog

Kermie,


Uh, thanks ... I think.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, I hear ya and understand you not wanting to mess with it, but those crown Amps kick butt, are cheap, and are easy to work with. I have one (602) running my mains and LOVE it. It would be pretty easy to do actually and will cost you less than $300 or closer to $200 if you go with a 402 series and bridge it. On the 602 you could run one channel for the SW and another for your center. Your center will sound better and it will also relieve some of the stress of the Yammy which could help the all around sound to the rest of your speakers. Or you can just say F*&% it and buy a new sub which we would completely understand. Just an option though.



Jon, Didn't realize you were doing this with yours. What sub did you end up with?


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KERMIE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I like your Avater Picture, Kinda makes you look like the Dr. Phil of HT



I don't see the resemblance


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't see the resemblance



Hmmm... I was thinking more like Jesse Ventura...


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jon, Didn't realize you were doing this with yours. What sub did you end up with?
> 
> 
> Bud



I have the Axiom EP500 so I am not doing it with mine, I just know people do. At 4 ohms it's 600 watts per channel so one channel can easily power a sub. I plan on eventually getting another one and running my center and a DIY sub off of it after my wife lifts the ban of me spending money.


----------



## KERMIE

Geeez, didn't mean to start something........lol.


It is all good Bud.


By the way. Is there anything you can do to help out the psychology of an audiophile......


just kidding



K


----------



## chinadog

I was in Myrtle Beach the other week and the woman at the store told me I looked like Stone Cold Steve Austin.










Seems to be a lot of bald guys out there I look like!


Bud


----------



## hltr

LOL, you DO look like him!


----------



## Toxarch

Maybe Mad Money's Jim Cramer?


----------



## ronnie_jackson

LOL, is it me, or do they just all look alike?


----------



## hltr

Hey, all those guys have fame and fortune, but I'll bet they don't have a HT like Bud!!!


----------



## BritInVA

Warning too all of us - don't post pictures or avitars with you in them......LOL


----------



## chinadog

Or don't post pictures if you look like Bud. Hey, if you can't laugh at yourself ....


Bud


----------



## garykagan

This thread is getting silly - but funny! I vote for Jesse V. Gotta put it back on track...


Bud - and anyone else,


I see the Furman power conditioner you have purchased and it is inexpensive. I got (2) FREE APC Back UPS USB 500VA surge protection and battery backups from work. They have an 18 minute backup if I lose power and have many outlets in each.


I planned on using these for the backup feature and the ability to shut down my equipment slowly in a blackout.


Does anyone know if the power conditioner has any additional benefits for my scenario? I have a rack so I could rack mount the Furman.


thanks for any thoughts!


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Hey Gary. Thanks for the vote.


Here's my two cents and I'm sure others will pipe in and tell me I'm wacked if I am.


Power conditioning is a continual process while the equipment is running, whereas the UPS is only used on occasion. I would think you'd get more use out of a power conditioner. The one I got is cheap, no doubt, sort of like a cheap insurance policy I thought. I don't need fancy LED readouts of anything, so I went cheap. Others have their own wants and needs. You can always plug a power conditioner into the UPS or vice versa and get the best of both worlds.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

I'm liking the best of both worlds idea...... It's worth it for around $40...


BTW - I will be updating my theater thread with pictures today!!


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Was just playing around with a ticket window design. Heres the first version at least. This would a standard window, with no rounded shelf or rounded top. I was thinking about another version that I would make the upper part rounded so it could hang out over the front of the window and maybe make a matching rounded shelf/counter. If I did the rounded version, I would try and make it larger enough to installed a recessed light of some sort. Not sure. I still have an idea of building a small marquee about it as well.


I plan on staining it the same color as the doors and the theater trim. Want to give it an older look. Maybe dark gold wood letters. My wife and the kids will be gone next weekend, so I'm thinking about building it and maybe my light boxes.


Anyway. Comments?










Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


1st of all -- if you made that with MS Paint -- you're definitely a MS Paint Pro










I think either square or rounded will work well. I like the idea of the can light inside which makes the curved option more attractive. Are the grooves in the sides to be fluted or just trim applied to the top. Fluting is always nice but you would need to purchase an router bit and make a few jigs.


If you are really going with the "old world" look, what about making a "customized" Zoltar ticket clerk like this? It's classic and is a reminder of a BIG blockbuster movie


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Zoltar I'm not... I like the lighted look, but if I do a Marquee above it (need to see if I have the room), that I can light that and even downlight it onto the ticket window.


I was thinking about buying versus making the flutes this AM. Probably easier to purchase, but no decision yet.


Oh and yes, thats MS paint. The versus of Visio I have does not work under XP (tells you how old it is) and can't get it through work.


Bud


----------



## Ktulu_1

When I saw your drawing of your ticket both something immediately occurred to me. I wouldn't have the space to have a ticket booth but I might be able to build something like your design there and mount in on a wall some place. A painting or poster of the inside of a ticket booth and/or a ticket taker (Zoltar) would suffice. YMMV.


----------



## chinadog

Jeff,


I thought about extending the bottom of the window to give it a ticket booth look, versus just a ticket window look. I have a great spot for it that I could make it like a foot deep. Of course, the top would have to be built out as well. My wife said I could hinge the bottom front panel "so she could store towels for the bathroom" in it.










I was thinking of making the window deep enough just to put some velvet curtains in it. I don't think I'd do a mirror. Not sure on the poster, it would have to be perfect.


Maybe I can buy a mannequin head on ebay and stuff it in there, get an ushers hat for him and call him "Swithey". Yeah, thats the ticket.










Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Have you noticed how careful Steve is not to include head shots in his thread....LOL


I get comments all time on 2 people I supposidly look like (don'y quite see it myself) but I'll not let that out the bag in this Forum


----------



## johnson_sb

On the power conditioner topic, I've always thought that part of the job of a power conditioner should be voltage regulation. But I haven't found that feature available on anything near the price range we're talking about. Is it just that, outside of a thunderstorm or other voltage "event", that voltage is constant enough not to be a concern? Is the primary purpose of a power conditioner then to remove noise from the line?


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Was just playing around with a ticket window design. Heres the first version at least. This would a standard window, with no rounded shelf or rounded top. I was thinking about another version that I would make the upper part rounded so it could hang out over the front of the window and maybe make a matching rounded shelf/counter. If I did the rounded version, I would try and make it larger enough to installed a recessed light of some sort. Not sure. I still have an idea of building a small marquee about it as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



C-Dog,


About the flutes: The store bought flutes are usually plunged with a rounded bit. I would make them, and I would suggest a flat-bottom bit, and squaring the corners just as you have it in your design. Will make it much more authentic than the rounded flutes. Porter Cable makes a nice corner chisel punch.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> C-Dog,
> 
> 
> About the flutes: The store bought flutes are usually plunged with a rounded bit. I would make them, and I would suggest a flat-bottom bit, and squaring the corners just as you have it in your design. Will make it much more authentic than the rounded flutes. Porter Cable makes a nice corner chisel punch.



I'll have to take a look. I have a plunge router and I might have the right bit. I bought a set a while back, just not sure what was included. I think I used one bit so far and that was for my window sills.


Got a like to the corner chisel punch?


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Got a like to the corner chisel punch?
> 
> 
> Bud


 Indeed


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the power conditioner topic, I've always thought that part of the job of a power conditioner should be voltage regulation. But I haven't found that feature available on anything near the price range we're talking about. Is it just that, outside of a thunderstorm or other voltage "event", that voltage is constant enough not to be a concern? Is the primary purpose of a power conditioner then to remove noise from the line?



Steve,


Maybe this will help: http://www.furmansound.com/products/...onditioner.php 


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud, the opening for storage idea is a good one IMO, but not for towels...


----------



## miltimj

Definitely - that's a great idea. I'm going to have to remember that one..


----------



## chinadog

That's what I was thinking as well, although I'd rather store the DVDs in the concession area, closer to the rack. I have a few options. First, I'll have the cabinets in the concession area in about 10 days, I've include two 27" wide cabinets each with three drawers. I can store the DVDs in there, as well CDs. I'm thinking the drawers may get a little heavy though. I'll have to see. I should have plenty of room for goodies like popcorn stuff, candy, paper products, etc as well. Second, I could build or buy a set of shelves in the concession are for movies, but then it takes up wall space and doesn't (IMO) look that great. I'd rather have them hidden. I could put a rack for DVDs in the inside of the equipment closet, but wouldn't want to kids back there looking for movies. Third, I could buy a mega changer and put all the DVDs in it and put the cases in storage, but would rather put that money towards a HDDVD/BluRay box. Fourth, build a HTPC and store movies/music to on hard drives. I was thinking about doing the HTPC next year, so I haven't started investigating all the work behind that yet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I ran out to my favorite Orange store today.... I had to pick up one of the transitions that they shorted me on and while I was there I bought an undercounter fridge and an inexpensive GE dishwasher for the bar. I have the fridge plugged in where it'll sit and I just left the dishwasher in the box. The bar is going to seem relatively small once all the cabinets are in I think.


Bud


----------



## bpape

All you need down there now is a bed and you'll never leave.


Bryan


----------



## chinadog

That's what the my Berkline loveseat is for. Recline them both and take a nap!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

A mega changer is about the same cost as the hard drive space for the equivalent number of DVDs, so that's a toss up. I'm debating as well, but will probably opt for the simple, find the movie, put it in the (HTPC) drive method. Perhaps I'll slowly load them as I watch them, and prepare the film before viewing. That would allow you to skip the warning, previews, etc, and have it ready to go. Another huge advantage (to me, anyway) with an HTPC is the ability to put up a cool intro animation, like Reaper has made.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A mega changer is about the same cost as the hard drive space for the equivalent number of DVDs, so that's a toss up. I'm debating as well, but will probably opt for the simple, find the movie, put it in the (HTPC) drive method. Perhaps I'll slowly load them as I watch them, and prepare the film before viewing. That would allow you to skip the warning, previews, etc, and have it ready to go. Another huge advantage (to me, anyway) with an HTPC is the ability to put up a cool intro animation, like Reaper has made.



You can also do some nice scaling too. I'm playing around with that now. Also if you plan to do 2.35:1 and use a lens, you can use a product like TheaterTek to resize the movie so it will display properly. TheaterTek is a cool product -- very customizable and can be used in batches to run multiple clips in a row (as Tim mentioned). I think this is the direction for me since I already have a PC I can use.


----------



## chinadog

Yes, forgot the scaling part of it, but knew you could do it. Another advantge is having the ability to network the machine. I'd like to dump all my pictures and video to drives as well, whether I few them in the theater or not.


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought an undercounter fridge and an inexpensive GE dishwasher for the bar.
> 
> Bud




Bud is this the one you bought - or similar?







I was looking for something like this for my bar, so you will have to let me know what you think. What are the dimensions of your GE dishwasher. (I was going to say unit - but then I thought about it







)


Drew


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


I bought model *GSD4060JSS*. Not very expensive, but not the bottom of the line either. After all, its primarily for bar glasses. What I liked about this one was the top rack was deep (not front the back, top to bottom). Great for those tall glasses.

GE Nautilus from HD (GSD4060JSS) 
*

Edit:* Here are the dimensions. 


I also picked up one of the Magic Chef beverage coolers for 299.00. Not bad, will probably buy a second one for the concession area. It goes to 41 degrees (digital thermostat), has glass shelfs, a light (manual, does not open with the door) and is 5.8 cubic feet, front vented with a glass door. Magic Chef is under the Whirlpool business, I think. The other ones I was looking at like the GE Mongram and Jenn-air are all like 1100.00 Can't justify spending that even if I have to replace it in two years.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It goes to 41 degrees



And I thought the Americans liked their beer cold


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I think its personal preference. I like it cold, not sure of the exact temperature. Depends on the beer though. Interesting tidbit here:

The proper temperature is essential for beer enjoyment. 











Bud


----------



## ksellers

Bud,


Been following your thread for the last couple months and thought I would chime in with one of my opinions. As far as the HTPC goes I would at least wait until Vista comes out as that will suposedly be much better for media integration.


By the way, your whole basement looks amazing. I hope that when I get a chance to do mine it will come out half a nice.


Kurt


----------



## chinadog

Hey Kurt, thanks and welcome to my little piece of insanity. Thanks for the tip on Vista. I haven't kept up in that department and I'm probably a year away anyway, but will keep that in mind.


Bud


----------



## Chiahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was thinking about doing the HTPC next year, so I haven't started investigating all the work behind that yet.
> 
> 
> Bud



Please, please, please post that in your thread or a new one when you start that project. I am thinking of having a central storage area for movies and music that can be accessed from anywhere. Then I was going to put a touch screen monitor in the bar area, that would allow me to select movies or music to display on a second monitor which would be a TV mounted on the wall in the game room area.


Of course this is a long ways down the road since my house is only in the framing stage right now...


----------



## avolizard

Just spent the past couple hours scanning through this thread and watching the progress of this awesome theater.


I am just getting ready to start on the basement and am leaning towards the laminate wood flooring also. However, I have been told by two different people, while getting estimates on finishing, that they will 'pop' when you walk on them. Have you had any issues with this?


Thanks in advance,


-Darryl


----------



## mrpergo

Darryl if its a snap together floor you would hear some snap,crackle,pop for a little while.

That is the floor settling in to itself. The floor your going over needs to be pretty flat.(1/4" over 10') If I'm doing laminate in a commercial building or in a wet area I glue it together with a product called Blue Fusion. It is made by Wilson Art. They have been in the laminate business forever and that product was designed to use with their Tap & Lock flooring. It takes a little longer to do a floor but the end result and longevity is worth it.

Blue Fusion can be used with any snap together laminate floor. It will seal it from moisture and stop the minute separation that happens over time from expanding and contracting.

Just a helpful hint from the Floor Man that knows


----------



## avolizard

Mrpergo,


Thanks. I'll check into the Blue Fusion.


----------



## chinadog

avolizard,


No real popping here. Every once in a while an occasional sound, but I believe that even though the pieces are locked together the sound is cased by a spot that was not laying completely flat. When you snap a floor together, after you've got the hang of it you tend to try and hammer it out. Even though visually the section may be down, it might be off the floor a hair, but you move on. The weight of the next row will pull it down. Once in a while (maybe 3 times since the floor is down) I hear a sound in a spot that I probably had not stepped on since the floor had gone down. Once I hear it, I never heard it in the same spot again.


Could also be the quality of the floor or maybe some little piece of something (like a little drywall granular that I missed when I swept up that gets crushed once stepped on. Not sure.


I used the Dupont flooring and have been very happy with it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please, please, please post that in your thread or a new one when you start that project. I am thinking of having a central storage area for movies and music that can be accessed from anywhere. Then I was going to put a touch screen monitor in the bar area, that would allow me to select movies or music to display on a second monitor which would be a TV mounted on the wall in the game room area.
> 
> 
> Of course this is a long ways down the road since my house is only in the framing stage right now...



Michael,


I'll keep posting here, assuming it doesn't get archived by the time I get to it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Blue Fusion can be used with any snap together laminate floor. It will seal it from moisture and stop the minute separation that happens over time from expanding and contracting.



Is blue fusion an underlayment?


Bud


----------



## mrpergo

Blue Fusion is the top of the line PVC adhesive designed by WilsonArt to be used with their Tap & Lock laminate flooring in high traffic (commercial setting) and wet area installations. (laundry rooms, bathrooms, Salons ect.) It can also be used with any other laminate flooring. I use it quite often with Pergo and Armstrong. It keeps the flooring tight after it starts expanding and contracting.

Your laminate floor will expand and contract just like a wood floor. As time goes on the locking systems weakens and small separations between the planks appear, Then the dirt and dust gets in the cracks. This really looks bad on light floors such as maple or a light oak, even worse with a white marble tile look. Using Blue Fusion glues the whole system together so it expands and contracts as one unit.

Most installers don't use it because it takes more time and a lot don't use it because the stores they work with don't carry WilsonArt flooring.


----------



## avolizard

Can you give a rough estimate on how much time it adds to the installation?

Just wondering if its going to double, triple or quadruple the install time.

Take into account that I have NEVER done flooring before.


----------



## mrpergo

It wouldn't add more then an hour or two depending on the square footage.

You only need to put a bead of glue on the tongue of the plank and put it together per instructions.


----------



## chinadog

I started hanging stuff and decorations in the gamreoom/bar, still more to do. Here are a few pictures.











































Bud


----------



## chinadog

Drew and Mark,


Not sure if you're looking for undercounter fridges for the bar, but this is the one I bought at HD. It's the Magic Chef. All the "stainless" surrounding the glass is plastic, hence the 299.00 price tag (and its made in China). The handle is stainless. Seems to work well, its pretty quiet when not cooling and does the job. I fought it hard to find find any info on the web about it, even with the model number.











Still need to reverse the door.


Bud


----------



## ebr

That's actually a wine chiller, isn't it...?


----------



## chinadog

Nope, there is a wine chiller version with metal racks shaped for wine bottles. This is what they called a beverage center. Has glass shelves.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the box. It's upside down so I rotated the picture.











Bud


----------



## hltr

Nice finish work C-Dog. Is that all Behr paint?


----------



## chinadog

Thanks. No, its Sherwin-Williams. Great stuff. Not cheap though.


Bud


----------



## mrpergo

Not cheap is right Bud









I always use Sherwin-Williams and spent several hundred dollars just to paint the theater.

What's funny though, I always watch HGTV and they remodel a room and do the breakdown of the costs and they'll have like $25.00 for paint. You know three different colors and some glaze. It kills me.

Your theater and basement look Great. It will be a nice escape area when complete.


----------



## scaesare

No real popping to speak of on the glueless laminate I just put down.


And maybe for you, mrpergo, adding a bead of glue along each tab of each piece of flooring would only add an hour or two to the job, but judging how long it took me to do ~320 sq. ft, it would take an idiot like me more like 4+


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's funny though, I always watch HGTV and they remodel a room and do the breakdown of the costs and they'll have like $25.00 for paint. You know three different colors and some glaze. It kills me.



You're right there. I think the stuff I used was 40.00+ a gallon. Covers real well though. I'm not sure where they get their paint from, but its not at SW.


Bud


----------



## Big Worms

Looking good Bud!


That fridge is really nice. I saw it at HD the other day and I really liked it. It stores a crap loud of drinks.


We just painted our new house inside and we also used SW paint. It was about $40 a gallon, but it is well worth it. The paint is the best I have used.


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud - since you've been working on the basement area too, I might actually catch you on this build. I should be completely finished (well, as complete as these things ever are) by tomorrow night.


tick, tick, tick...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Worms* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We just painted our new house inside and we also used SW paint. It was about $40 a gallon, but it is well worth it. The paint is the best I have used.



Thanks Big! I've used Behr, Ralph Lauren, Duron (pre-SW), Porter and SW. I like SW the best. Seems to get the best coverage per can.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud - since you've been working on the basement area too, I might actually catch you on this build. I should be completely finished (well, as complete as these things ever are) by tomorrow night.
> 
> 
> tick, tick, tick...



Tomorrow? I knew you were close, just didn't think that close. Good deal. Cabinets next Monday then counters. Getting close. Still need to build my lightboxes and ticket window. Hopefully I'll get a jump start on that this weekend.


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud -

What's your thinking on the lightboxes? Have you devised a plan for them yet or are you just gonna wing it? I'm considering some DIY ones as well but havent thought about how to go about it yet...


Kevin -


----------



## chinadog

Kevin,


There is a thread that Clarence started ( homemade backlit DS poster lightbox thread ) that I'll go back and review this week and use as a basis for the design. I'll post information as I move forward with it. I probably won't use the rosettes (never really liked them) and just mitre the corners. I don think I'll use the fluted stuff either, just use the frame and techniques there.


Again, want to make it look old. I actually still need to buy some posters for the. Was looking for some double sided vintage repros, but striking out in that department. I suppose I could use single sided as well.


Bud


----------



## barhoram

What is the color of that SW paint that you used?


----------



## chinadog

barhoram,


Gameroom and bar: Sherwin-Williams SW6129 "Restrained Gold"

Concession area: Sherwin-Williams SW6128 "Blonde"


Bud


----------



## larryep

man bud it looks awesome. like the baseball pics.


What is the exterior dimensions of the beverage cooler?


thank you larryep


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're right there. I think the stuff I used was 40.00+ a gallon. Covers real well though. I'm not sure where they get their paint from, but its not at SW.
> 
> 
> Bud



Sherwin Williams does have some expensive paint, but it is really nice paint. I have a friend who does remodeling and I got him to buy the paint for me. SW has contractor accounts and the more a contractor buys from them, the lower their price will be over time. If you know anyone in the painting business, get them to buy the paint for you under their account and pay them back for it (if you have anymore painting to do). It helps you get a little lower price and helps them with their future discount. It takes a lot of purchases from SW to get the discount.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> man bud it looks awesome. like the baseball pics.
> 
> 
> What is the exterior dimensions of the beverage cooler?
> 
> 
> thank you larryep



Hey Larry, thanks. Measurements are straight out of the manual here on my desk.


Width -> 23 1/2 inches (When the handle is on, its 25 1/2 inches - the door should 1 inch beyond the standard cabinet).


Height -> 34 2/5 inches


Depth is 20 4/5 inches


Its made for a 24 x 24 x 341/2 to 35 opening. Typically the same size opening as a dishwasher.


I have a ton of old B&W sports pictures, most are in my office. Most are reproductions bought off ebay for a few bucks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


A few shots of my office:



























Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sherwin Williams does have some expensive paint, but it is really nice paint. I have a friend who does remodeling and I got him to buy the paint for me. SW has contractor accounts and the more a contractor buys from them, the lower their price will be over time. If you know anyone in the painting business, get them to buy the paint for you under their account and pay them back for it (if you have anymore painting to do). It helps you get a little lower price and helps them with their future discount. It takes a lot of purchases from SW to get the discount.



Now you tell me! Just kiddin'. I did wonder why they asked me if I had an account every time I walked in though!


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drew and Mark,
> 
> 
> Not sure if you're looking for undercounter fridges for the bar, but this is the one I bought at HD. It's the Magic Chef. All the "stainless" surrounding the glass is plastic, hence the 299.00 price tag (and its made in China). The handle is stainless. Seems to work well, its pretty quiet when not cooling and does the job. I fought it hard to find find any info on the web about it, even with the model number.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to reverse the door.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud, that is the one I was looking at. Funny. Great minds think alike I guess.


Drew


----------



## larryep

well shoot that wont fit in my cabinet. thanks for the measurements Bud.


larryep


----------



## chinadog

Forgot to tell you guys, my HD PVR crapped out in the HT room. It got really, really hot. I don't think it was a venting issue, the closet is pretty cool. The bathroom fan seems to be doing its job. It is in a two space shelf, so I may have to watch it and replace the shelf with a vented one or go to a 3 space shelf.


The good news is I'm connecting the box and notice that it's got a HDMI connection! The cable guy said he's hooked up several now. I'm still running off component at the moment, the kids were watching a movie and I'd have to mess with the receive settings. Anyway, stay tuned. He also noticed I had a week signal comping into the house (long drive) and after a few phone calls, he added a second amp to boost the signal.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Bud... is it the Motorola box? If so it needs lots of airspace on top. Lots.


----------



## chinadog

Yes, its a motorola. I may have to switch it around then. I also tried to connect via HDMI to the 2600 and it seemed to work for a few seconds, saw some message on the screen about filters and to use component, then the screen went green. Haven't really had a chance to play with it more than that.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I have had to replace my HD DVR (motorola) three times already. I have it sitting on it's side on a counter right now, not in a cabinet. These puppies get extremely hot. If I turn off the DVR, I lose all audio and have to unplug it from the wall to reset the audio. A real pisser. This one is going back to be replace also (Adelphia Cable).


Good luck.


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Forgot to tell you guys, my HD PVR crapped out in the HT room. It got really, really hot. I don't think it was a venting issue, the closet is pretty cool. The bathroom fan seems to be doing its job. It is in a two space shelf, so I may have to watch it and replace the shelf with a vented one or go to a 3 space shelf.
> 
> 
> The good news is I'm connecting the box and notice that it's got a HDMI connection! The cable guy said he's hooked up several now. I'm still running off component at the moment, the kids were watching a movie and I'd have to mess with the receive settings. Anyway, stay tuned. He also noticed I had a week signal comping into the house (long drive) and after a few phone calls, he added a second amp to boost the signal.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud....the one thing to consider though on using the HDMI into your 2600 is that you will lose the upscaling of SD content. Not sure if you were taking advantage of the scaling features on the Yammy or not.


----------



## hltr

Jon,


So using DVI or HDMI out on a Moto box removes upscaling?


----------



## Cymark

Bud,


Been a fan of your posts and your home theater construction thread...I was planning on just lurking in the shadows but after I seen those Quebec licence plates on the wall I just have to ask what a guy from Atlanta is doing with those on his wall?


...also want to let you know how much us lurkers appreciate reading and gaining knowledge from your thread!!


Mark


----------



## HTScotty

As always Bud, awesome job.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but after reading the Mid-Atlantic pdf file.....

Aren't you supposed to have the hottest things from top to bottom if you have active cooling like you do? I only ask because we've sold our house and will be building soon. I planned on having my equipment setup pretty much like yours. As a matter of fact, mine was designed after yours. Keep up the good work!


----------



## jandawil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jon,
> 
> 
> So using DVI or HDMI out on a Moto box removes upscaling?



No, it's just that with the Yamaha RX-V2600, it will only upscale component video, S-Video or RCA. It will upscale as well as upconvert to to HDMI which is the big selling feature of this receiver. HDMI is simply pass through. If you are scaling on the Moto box, it would be a non-issue. The scaling on the Yammy is pretty marginal anyhow, but I choose to run component into my 2600 from my DirecTV receiver so I can upscale the SD programing. It is upscaled to 720P and upconverted to HDMI and sent out to my 900u PJ. Even with the scaling, SD content is pretty brutal on a 118" screen though, but it does help a little so it is worth it to me.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I have had to replace my HD DVR (motorola) three times already. I have it sitting on it's side on a counter right now, not in a cabinet. These puppies get extremely hot. If I turn off the DVR, I lose all audio and have to unplug it from the wall to reset the audio. A real pisser. This one is going back to be replace also (Adelphia Cable).
> 
> 
> Good luck.



I may have to rearrange some things or even just take it out of the rack. If I've got IR on it, doesn't matter to me if it sits on the floor. I don't watch any SD in there. Only HDTV and thats usually an occasional game or Discovery show. I think what happened was that I left it on for like 3 days straight by accident.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud....the one thing to consider though on using the HDMI into your 2600 is that you will lose the upscaling of SD content. Not sure if you were taking advantage of the scaling features on the Yammy or not.



Hey Jon,


Forgot about the scaling, but not a real issue since I don't watch SDTV in the HT room. Waste of a bulb lamp! My DVD is HDMI ready and I was running component-> HDMI with cable. I had scaling off I believe.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cymark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Been a fan of your posts and your home theater construction thread...I was planning on just lurking in the shadows but after I seen those Quebec licence plates on the wall I just have to ask what a guy from Atlanta is doing with those on his wall?
> 
> 
> ...also want to let you know how much us lurkers appreciate reading and gaining knowledge from your thread!!
> 
> 
> Mark



Hey Mark, thanks for piping in. Here's the deal with the plates. I grew up in CT and have made several trips to Montreal. We used to go up there for spring break and hang out on St. Catherine's street. My wife and I also went up to Montreal for our honeymoon. I picked up those plates at a flea market 15 years ago. That'll give you an idea of how long I've been thinking about this basement! We moved to Atlanta in 1994. The last time I was in Montreal was in 2000 for some big award I received at work, presented by the CEO at the time. It was the best trip yet. Love Montreal. Great city.


No problem on the thread. I'm amazed by the number of views it gets.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTScotty* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As always Bud, awesome job.
> 
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but after reading the Mid-Atlantic pdf file.....
> 
> Aren't you supposed to have the hottest things from top to bottom if you have active cooling like you do? I only ask because we've sold our house and will be building soon. I planned on having my equipment setup pretty much like yours. As a matter of fact, mine was designed after yours. Keep up the good work!



Well thanks and good luck with it. If you have any questions, let me know.


You're correct, I believe they recommend the hottest on top. I just didn't think that it would have been the Moto box. Its interesting. In the Yamaha 2600 thread, people complained about how hot it got, hence the reason it was on top. The other receivers I expected would have been hot as well, which why I did what I did. I was trying to keep the kid friendly items towards the bottom of the rack. I never thought that box would be a problem. Sounds like a design flaw to me.


Bud


----------



## jandawil

My DirecTV sat box is by far the hottest component in my rack and I also have the 2600 like you do. I can't imagine why it runs so hot. Mine doesn't even have the DVR either. I guess it takes a lot of processing power to give you that great HD picture. I'm with you on not watching SD TV on my PJ, but until ALL sports are in HD than I'll have to suffer through Angels games scaled through my 2600.


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> There is a thread that Clarence started (homemade backlit DS poster lightbox thread) that I'll go back and review this week and use as a basis for the design. I'll post information as I move forward with it. I probably won't use the rosettes (never really liked them) and just mitre the corners. I don think I'll use the fluted stuff either, just use the frame and techniques there.



Hi Bud. Been too busy to keep up with the thread. A couple tips about Clarence's design. (I built one last fall and modified the design slightly) I found when I tried to use the table saw to cut some grooves to insert the plexi, it was way too tight. Ruined a nice ROTS poster trying this. I built the outside frame as you describe. Mitred the corners and used some 90 degree braces to strengthen it. Then used some silicon glue to glue the plexi to the inside of the frame. I put some hinges on the side which butts up against my wall so I could have easy poster changing. It has worked great. I can post some pics if it would help.


Scott


----------



## sdspga

 http://images2.fotki.com/v332/photos...00_1555-vi.jpg 


Bud,


Don't know if those golf balls are only from courses you have played, but I would be happy to add one from the PGA at Medinah. I am heading over Friday morning of the event. PM me if you want.


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud. Been too busy to keep up with the thread. A couple tips about Clarence's design. (I built one last fall and modified the design slightly) I found when I tried to use the table saw to cut some grooves to insert the plexi, it was way too tight. Ruined a nice ROTS poster trying this. I built the outside frame as you describe. Mitred the corners and used some 90 degree braces to strengthen it. Then used some silicon glue to glue the plexi to the inside of the frame. I put some hinges on the side which butts up against my wall so I could have easy poster changing. It has worked great. I can post some pics if it would help.
> 
> 
> Scott



Hey Scott,


Any pictues would be great. Thanks for the tip. Maybe I need to run the wood through, move the fence and run it through again to make that grove just a hair wider?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://images2.fotki.com/v332/photos...00_1555-vi.jpg
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Don't know if those golf balls are only from courses you have played, but I would be happy to add one from the PGA at Medinah. I am heading over Friday morning of the event. PM me if you want.
> 
> 
> Scott



It's a combination of some of the courses I've played and a few odds and ends. I have Augusta National and Pebble Beach balls, both that I haven't played (yet







). I did play Poppy Hills and East Lake a while back. Medinah .... aren't they playing the PGA Championship there this year? If you think about, that would be cool.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I've started my ticket window. I'm hoping to finish it today. I need to run back to HD and get two more boards and I think I'll be able to make all the cuts and assemble it.

I ordered wood letters online about a week ago, still waiting on them. I'm also thinking of red velvet curtains on the inside.


Here's what I've got so far:


























I bought all the trim for the top and bottom as well, including some fluted trim. I decided not to make my own fluted stuff. I do plan on building a skirt under the shelf and trimming that out. If you look close, You can see I made a groove for the plexiglass or glass. I'll insert the plexiglass and the flutted trim will then hold it in place.


Anyone ever cut a circle in plexiglass before?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, here's the final unfinished product. Came out pretty good. The plith blocks and flutes are not attached yet, just there by friction.



























Without the sides:










From the back. Gives you an idea of how it was constructed. I used screws, brads and wood glue. The major pieces are held together with screws and are hidden by other boards or trim.


























View from the bottom:


















I took this shelf off from the bathroom wall and used it as my template for the shelf. I then use a jug saw and cut it out, sanded it some, then routed the top and bottom edges. I finally used my biscuit joiner I bought a year or two ago and added another board to make the shelf deeper.










Tomorrow I'll stain it and add a French cleat. Hopefully the letters will arrive soon.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Very cool! Thanks for the detailed pictures. I was wondering what you traced for that front shelf.. Looking forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## BFauska

Bud,


The window is looking good.


I've cut many shapes into plexiglass, and I would say your best bet is to make a template out of some scrap wood (mdf works well) and then use your router with a flush cut (ball bearing) bit. If you have a top bearing bit you can just plunge the router through the plexi and then follow the template, if you only have a bottom bearing bit then you will have to pre-drill a large enough hole for the bearing to fit through. If you have to drill, sandwich the plexi between two pieces of wood and use a slightly dull drill bit at a high speed through all three pieces, don't let the bit pull itself through the plexi, it may crack it. The best ways to make the circle template are either a hole-saw, or a router on a circle jig like the type people use for speaker boxes.


On a side note, lexan looks a little more like glass when closely examined and is stronger, but I think it costs more. I would cut it the same way.


Keep up the good work,


Brian


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


In a town I used to live in there was a company that built a lot of industrial displays for shows out of various plastics, glass, lexan,etc. The always would cut the plexiglass underwater to prevent any heat from the cutting process from discoloring the plexiglass. You don't need a lot of water just enough to keep the tool cool enough not to distort the color. Hope this might help.


Bob


----------



## SVonhof

Cutting plexi underwater sounds like a lot of work. I have gone to Tap plastics and had they used a table saw and just left the paper on the faces. If you need to, you can use a propane torch to flame polish the edges to smooth them out.


----------



## rsberg34

Love the window Bud looks great.


Robert


----------



## swithey

Nice job on the window. It is really going to "POP" once you get it stained. I can't wait to see it completed.


----------



## ebr

Awesome window, Bud. How much does it weigh? Are you still thinking about making it into a hidden door?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BFauska* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> The window is looking good.
> 
> 
> I've cut many shapes into plexiglass, and I would say your best bet is to make a template out of some scrap wood (mdf works well) and then use your router with a flush cut (ball bearing) bit. If you have a top bearing bit you can just plunge the router through the plexi and then follow the template, if you only have a bottom bearing bit then you will have to pre-drill a large enough hole for the bearing to fit through. If you have to drill, sandwich the plexi between two pieces of wood and use a slightly dull drill bit at a high speed through all three pieces, don't let the bit pull itself through the plexi, it may crack it. The best ways to make the circle template are either a hole-saw, or a router on a circle jig like the type people use for speaker boxes.
> 
> 
> On a side note, lexan looks a little more like glass when closely examined and is stronger, but I think it costs more. I would cut it the same way.
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work,
> 
> 
> Brian




Brian,


Thanks for the reply. Where can I find Lexan. Glass shop or HD? I actually have a 4" holesaw that I could use to make a hole in a template. I also have some 1/4" plywood laying around I can use.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BoblK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> In a town I used to live in there was a company that built a lot of industrial displays for shows out of various plastics, glass, lexan,etc. The always would cut the plexiglass underwater to prevent any heat from the cutting process from discoloring the plexiglass. You don't need a lot of water just enough to keep the tool cool enough not to distort the color. Hope this might help.
> 
> 
> Bob



Bob,


Do you know what tool they use?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cutting plexi underwater sounds like a lot of work. I have gone to Tap plastics and had they used a table saw and just left the paper on the faces. If you need to, you can use a propane torch to flame polish the edges to smooth them out.



Scott,


I just bought and replaced my table saw blade yesterday before starting the ticket window. I wore the other out on my laminate flooring. I figured either way I'd have to get another blade, so at least I have a a new blade for woodworking.


Good tip on the torch. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Awesome window, Bud. How much does it weigh? Are you still thinking about making it into a hidden door?



If I had to guess, it weighs maybe 45 pounds. No, I don't think so on the hidden door. I could have just made a stand for it, then instead of doing the apron under the self, built a narrow cabinet, trimmed it out to give it a full ticket window. I'm not sure I'd have to depth now with the size of the top part to make a cabinet big enough to store anything. Who knows, maybe I'll reconsider. Here's where it'll hang, the other side of that wall is the steps.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim, Robert and Steve,


Thanks guys! I'll get it stained today and post more pictures later.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My cabinets arrived this morning! They're suppose to be here tomorrow to install them.











Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Bud,


Wont be long till your finnished down there...keep it up, looks great and be sure to post pics of those cabinets too.


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Here's the stained ticket window. I mad a French cleat out of a 2x4. I cut it at a 30 degree angle. I secured one side in the ticket window with screws. The other side I put on the wall with 2 anchors and a screw in a stud.



















I can take it down pretty easily obviously using this method. Once I get the glass, curtains and lettering figured out, then I may also put an "L" bracket behind the apron so it doesn't accidently get lifted up and off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsberg34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Wont be long till your finnished down there...keep it up, looks great and be sure to post pics of those cabinets too.
> 
> 
> Robert



Thanks. Will definately take some pictures tomorrow once installed.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Finally got my pay phone hung up today.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Couple of closeups of the stained ticket window:



























Bud


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


Depended on the area being cut. I've seen a scroll saw, drill press both being used.


I thought about the drill press I saw on your work bench in a photo about your ticket window and using a hole saw. Don't know it you would have enough clearance with the drill press post though.


You don't need much water, just enough to submerge the part and keep everything cool. A cookie sheetmight be deep enough, but the boss might have an objection to that!


Bob


----------



## lektern

Looks like China's getting anxious for you to finish so she can watch a movie. Or was it the Cold Beer sign that attracted her?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


That's actually Gunner. China passed early in 2005. We adopted another GSD (Maggie) last fall, but she's camera shy. As soon as I pull out the camera, she takes off. Its weird. Someone shot her with a pellet gun before we got her, so she may think a camera will hurt her. We have the xray, the pellet its still in her hip.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BoblK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Depended on the area being cut. I've seen a scroll saw, drill press both being used.
> 
> 
> I thought about the drill press I saw on your work bench in a photo about your ticket window and using a hole saw. Don't know it you would have enough clearance with the drill press post though.
> 
> 
> You don't need much water, just enough to submerge the part and keep everything cool. A cookie sheetmight be deep enough, but the boss might have an objection to that!
> 
> 
> Bob



Hey Bob. I'd probably attempt a router that the hole saw. I was thinking of making a template out of 1/4 ply and cutting a hole in that, then using it a a guide for the router.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Question about the ticket window... is something going inside of it or is that the finished look?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Joe!


No, not finished. I'm thinking of putting up some red velvet curtains. Once I get the plexi/lexan/glass thing resolved, I also have one of the louver circle things to install. Still waiting on the letters as well. The hard part is done though.


Bud


----------



## reaper

Cool. I like your style. This is going to be a unique room.


----------



## chinadog

Cabinet guy just called, he's lost... but he's only 5 minutes away.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


Can't wait to see those cabinets in!! The finish line is near!!


Sean


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


You probably don't remember, but when I did my ticket window I used a 1/16th inch straight bit and routed out my holes. The router bit wants to melt the plexi. However, once you get the speed down, it goes pretty well. I had to finish it with a rasp and fine sand paper but it worked.


I think using a template guide is a good idea.


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


I think the Router would work also, but like HeyNow/\\ said, watch the heat. I'll bet with the water and a little slower speed you would be just fine.


Bob


----------



## HeyNow^

Water and an electric router? Yikes!


----------



## hltr

Yeah, router speed is key. Watch out for scratches too.


----------



## VorlonFog

*Bud:* First comment - *LOVE* your ticket window. I didn't go back to see the assembly pictures until after I saw the stained end result. I'd have sworn you were using oak boards until I saw the unfinished work during the assembly.


Second - I cut a 2-1/2 inch hole in thick plexi as a vent for my projector when I was constructing a new mount plate. (The aluminum mounting plate they sent was wrong, but I didn't open it until long after the exchange period had passed.) I used a standard hole saw and my hand drill, leaving the plastic/paper lining on the plexi.


If you've got a drill press to do the work, just be certain to protect both sides of the plexi from scratches and clamp it down well. Keep your speed slow and your pressure slight and you shouldn't have any issues with warping, cracking, or discoloration. I used a Dremel with a fine sanding drum to finish the edges after cutting the circle, but I think I like the flame idea better.


----------



## Ktulu_1

I used to build "cut away" displays of engines, transmissions, etc. and sometimes we built plexi display cases for them. One of the things we did was use a blow gun and compressed air to keep the blade cool while cutting. Definitely need a third hand, but it seems a little more practical than cutting under water.


----------



## chinadog

Cabinets are installed. I think it looks pretty good. The center cabinets will have glass doors and apparently there was problem, so they had to reorder them.










Better shot of the base cabinets. Lazy Susan in the corner.










Dishwasher goes on the right. Cabinet for the sink in the center. Drawers on left for stuff like bottle openers, can openers, coasters, crap like that.










Shot from the sides:


















New concession area. Lots of drawers and room for another fridge:










Left side has a regular base cabinet:










Lots of DVD storage:










Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Cabinets look slick Bud. Does that payphone work? Nice decor touch, either way.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cabinets look slick Bud. Does that payphone work? Nice decor touch, either way.



Hey Dave, thanks. Not yet, but will in the fall. Have to swap out the guts. My father-in-law has the parts and we won't see them until November.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

All,


OK guys, just catching up on the hints and tips on the ticket window and I appreciate them all. Turns out that Jason (jikkjack) has a relative in that business, so I think I'm going to tap that. One less thing for me to screw up!










Bud


----------



## BoblK

Not THAT much Water. It's done all the time..


----------



## chinadog

Here's what I'm proposing to do to the front of the bar. I'm sure you guys were wondering what was up with the drywall front. I'm thinking of framing it out in wood (probably maple) (stiles and rails) and either using raised panels or trim it out to simulate a raised panel look. I could even do a stained beadboard as panels. I'll either try to match the stain of cabinets or stain/paint it some complementary color. Anyone have any hints/tips on panel size recommendations, etc? Never done anything lek this before.










Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


I like the idea of trimming it out to look like raised panels. The bead board look will be a little to busy I think, and you don't have it anywhere else...or do you?! I looks like you've got that whole staining thing down, and I bet you can match the cabinetry pretty close!


Sean


----------



## chinadog

Sean, we have some beadboard upstairs on the breakfast bar wall and in the kitchen in the breakfast area. It's all painted white like the trim color.


There is a place local (so I'm told) that if you bring in a sample of a finished product and tell them the wood you plan on using that they can match the stain. I'd let them figure it out. I just need to find out where the place is.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

We did a faux wainscoatting project in our living room. Came out real nice. If you go that way make a corner jig, and use very small brads (+glue). We used initially larger nails, stupidly, and had them popping out the back all the time. Assemble the frames off the wall, then attach.


You might want to cut a piece of wood to be the spacer between each frame. Use it for the sides and tops. Only loosely on the floor if your floor isn't 100% level (ours wasn't). Rectangles look nicer than squares. Your sketch looks good to me.


Got no advice if you go for real raised panels.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Dave, thanks. I was thinking if I don't do the raised panel things, that I'd have to figure out how to stain something (veneer maybe) to fill that void. I was thinking I could make a panel using some dimensional lumber and biscuits, then route the edges and use it as a floating panel. Maybe secure it using some decorative trim about the inside of the opening.


Its hard to tell from the picture, I didn't color it or anything, but the whole front would be wood. No drywall will be exposed. I'd also use corbels stained to match in strategic spots to also help with the bar top.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have any hints/tips on panel size recommendations, etc? Never done anything like this before.


*Bud:*

I'm doing fabric paneled wall frames on the upper half of my walls, and wondered about the size thing, too. I bought a book at Lowe's that gave recommendations for sizes, proportions, etc. and it included a calculation to figure things out. All that being said, I like the look of your line drawing. The sizes and proportions look great to my eye.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks. Reminds me. I picked up a trim book a few months ago, need to go look at that and see if there are any ideas there.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Reminds me. I picked up a trim book a few months ago, need to go look at that and see if there are any ideas there.



I think the biggest thing the formula attempts to accomplish is obtaining the 1.6-to-1 ratio of vertical-to-horizontal size for vertical panels (1-to-1.6 ratio for horizontal) while allowing adequate room above, below, and between the frames. When I get home from work, I'll see if I can get a picture of the page for you (unless you find it first.







)


----------



## chinadog

That would be great. I haven't had the opportunity to wander downstairs today to get the book or research it.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud,


I've seen a lot of stack-stone facing with wood tongue & groove bartops lately. You may want to consider this as you never have to worry about kick marks or other damage to the bar front. I think the stacked stone can be had in our area for about $8/sf installed (or much less for the diy'er). You can build the foot rest out of stone as well.


FYI - Come by Thursday as it is delivery day.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Thanks for the update. Actually I know exactly what you mean. Sort of like the side of my house and I know where to get that stone if need be. Very durable, but a little rough for the look I'm thinking of. Need to do a little more research. A few more trips to some bars, I suppose.










Cool! Nothing like a good delivery. I'm off starting tomorrow for the rest of the week, but will be here watching the kids. I can drag them over.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I get home from work, I'll see if I can get a picture of the page for you (unless you find it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



The book I have is Decorating with Interior Trim by Sunset, ISBN 0-376-01266-8. Here's an Amazon.com link. Pages 118 and 119 describe planning wall frames. Here's the formula they give (I have attempted to put this in layman's terms as well as possible







I've also attached a terribly bad MS-Paint drawing







)


- - - - - - - -


Frame width = ( wall length - "X" ) divided by number of frames


where


"X" = width of the vertical margin (distance between the frames) multiplied by (the number of frames + 1)


The frame height is the distance from the top of your baseboard to the underside of the bar, minus two horizontal margins. Check the ratio of frame width to height against the Golden Rectangle (divide the longer dimension by the shorter one.) Continue adjusting the number of frame modules and the size of the vertical margins until you get closest to an ideal rectangle (1:1.618).

*Example:* This example is for placing wall frames beneath the chair rail on a long wall. The wall is 16 feet long (192 inches.) You would like 3-inch margins. The chair rail is at 36 inches and there's a 4-inch baseboard. You want 4 frames on the wall.

*To obtain frame width:*

3 (vertical margin in inches) multiplied by 5 (number of frames desired + 1) = 15 (total width of all margins in inches)

192 (wall length in inches) minus 15 = 177 (inches available for frames)

177 divided by 4 (number of frames desired) = 44.25 inches (frame width)

*To obtain frame height:*

36 (chair rail height in inches) - 4 (baseboard height in inches) = 32 inches

32 - 6 (2 horizontal margins of 3 inches each) = 26 inches

*Checking against the "ideal" proportions:*

44.25 inches (frame width) divided by 26 inches = 1.7


This is reasonably close to the ideal ratio of 1.618. To get closer to ideal proportions you might adjust the vertical margins at each end of the wall.


- - - - - - - -


If this *STILL* sounds confusing, don't feel too bad. It confused me the first time I read it from the book, and again when I attempted to figure out the frame dimensions for my wall. If nothing else, you might Google for "Golden Rectangle" and "wall frame" and find more and likely better explanations.


----------



## chinadog

Great, thats exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000

Bud,


Looking nice. I love the old pay phone. Maybe you have already addressed this, but does it work? Or is it just for looks?


Craig


----------



## chinadog

Craig,


Thanks. I got the phone from my father in law. He's collected a few from friends over the years. It's a 1950s Western Electric. I'm suppose to get some new guts for it from him to get it to work. It was a different color, like a salmon color, actually. I repainted it and found an old phone store online that was I able to buy a black and white face sticker for it to finish it up.


Here's a replica like mine.
http://www.ahernstore.com/1950-payphone.html 











Bud


----------



## chinadog

I'm not sure whats bigger news... the fact that I got the new Hsu VTF MK2 today, or the fact that I put in my letter of resignation at IBM today.










On a another conference call with Australia (first of two tonight), so have not had the opportunity to hook it the sub. Will take some pictures when I get to it.


On the job front, I'm taking a new software PM job with a very large News/Media company in Atlanta. Very excited about it! I'll be managing some new internet portal development efforts.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

does the new company end in *NN?


----------



## chinadog

Yes, that's one asset of the larger company.










Bud


----------



## ebr

Congrats on the new position, Bud. They still gonna let you work from home?


----------



## lektern

Congrats on the sub and the job!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new position, Bud. They still gonna let you work from home?



No, unfortunately. Thankfully the basement is basically done. I will have to go in and deal with traffic and gas prices. The upside surely outweighs the down though. I'll just suck it up.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on the sub and the job!



Thanks man!


----------



## garykagan

Bud - that is great new on the job front. Good news is always great to hear. Good luck with that!


Gary


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, unfortunately. Thank guy the basement is basicaly done. I will have to go in and deal with traffic and gas prices. The upside surely outweighs the down though. I'll just suck it up.
> 
> 
> Bud



Who is guy? LOL!


----------



## chinadog

As much as I love AVS, I hate the spell check more... and the wise asses!










Bud


----------



## swithey

Congrats on the new job. I knew you were a bit dissatisfied with your previous position. Does this new job allow you to continue to work from home or do you need to drive into the office like the rest of us?


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As much as I love AVS, I hate the spell check more... and the wise asses!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



A favorite quote of mine:


"Even the wisest ass still talks ****."


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new job. I knew you were a bit dissatisfied with your previous position. Does this new job allow you to continue to work from home or do you need to drive into the office like the rest of us?



Thanks man. I'll be hittin' the road.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Bud,


Pocket jig if you have one or can borrow for those rails and stiles imo. Much easier than biscuits and glue.


Dimensional lumber sounds good. I would probably insert quarter inch plywood veneer panels into the void (probably just liquid nail) and then make or adapt moulding to trim it in/cover the seam between panel and rails/stiles. Gets you your raised panel look as you mentioned.


----------



## Don_Kellogg

Bud I know how you feel I have calls all the time, I'm a global engineer / developer and it makes for strange hours, because of aussie land, japan, uk, etc..


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Pocket jig if you have one or can borrow for those rails and stiles imo. Much easier than biscuits and glue.
> 
> 
> Dimensional lumber sounds good. I would probably insert quarter inch plywood veneer panels into the void (probably just liquid nail) and then make or adapt moulding to trim it in/cover the seam between panel and rails/stiles. Gets you your raised panel look as you mentioned.



Any recommendations on what jig to get? Looks like there are a bunch on ebay, but I don't want to buy crap if a better one can be had reasonably.


I agree, much easier than biscuits.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's some of the sub pictures. the Hsu VTF-2 on the left, the NEW Hsu VTF-2 MK2 on the right. The sub is a little taller, tall enough in fact that the sub won't fit in my sub enclosure. At least standing up it won't. I've go it on its side, seems to work fine like that.


BTW, while putting in the new sub, I turn 180 degrees to get something and by accident I kicked my Berklines and heard a snap. I immediately looked to see the damage and there was none. The snap I heard was my "pinky" toe. Yup, looks like I broke it.



























Closeup:










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I have the old VTF-2. My cabinet finish is a bit rougher than yours. More pebbled. What is the difference between the two perfomance wise? Does the new one just rest flat on the floor without legs?


----------



## chinadog

Randy, the new one is still downward firing so it needs to be up off the floor. It has the metal feet that come to a point. Was thinking about cutting them down, since I only need an inch or so, but decided to try it sideways. Ben Harper is going to talk to Dr. Hsu today and see if there are any real problems doing so. You can see the metal feet in the picture, although its deceiving, they're much bigger than they look. Also, I believe Mark (BritinVA) asked about the measurements, but I don't think the measurements included the feet. I'll double check though. I though I had some room to spare. Go figure.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...bs_1903_887893 


I have not given it the old college try yet, since I got it hooked up late, but will play with it this weekend some. So far, I'm loving it.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

OUCH!!


You broke your pinky toe, and it didn't hurt like a son-of-a-b****?!!


Hope you don't have a clutch!!!


----------



## chinadog

Lucky its on my left foot. It hurts now, didn't hurt much then. No clutch in my truck. Going to get an Xray, not much they'll do though. Oh well. Now I have a war story for the HT room.


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on what jig to get? Looks like there are a bunch on ebay, but I don't want to buy crap if a better one can be had reasonably.
> 
> 
> I agree, much easier than biscuits.
> 
> 
> Bud



I wouldn't mess with anything but Kreg. Not very expensive, so once you figure shipping and all, you may not get much of a deal on ebay.

The basic is fine 


But the master system is still cheap imo.


----------



## hltr

Bud,


Here is a simple version of panels from my living room.


hltr



















That was before I had the Kreg, and I still have nail holes to fill. I'll get to that any day now


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That was before I had the Kreg, and I still have nail holes to fill. I'll get to that any day now



All you have to do is turn the flash off and you won't see them.


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mess with anything but Kreg. Not very expensive, so once you figure shipping and all, you may not get much of a deal on ebay.
> 
> The basic is fine
> 
> 
> But the master system is still cheap imo.



The master system looks like it is the one to get. I really like the new style clamping they use for the table-top portion. I used my mom's (yes, my mom's!) old Kreg and it worked great.


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All you have to do is turn the flash off and you won't see them.



*reshoots*


Hey yeah!


----------



## VorlonFog

"Congratulations, I'm sorry" - A great album title (the Gin Blossoms) and I believe an appropriate comment on your change of employers. Congratulations for the new project management position and all the opportunities it brings. You have my sympathy, driving in Atlanta's rush hour traffic with the gas prices these days. Like you said, the upside outweights the bad.


Have fun this weekend connecting and positioning the new subwoofer!!


----------



## ebr

Yeah - I lived, worked and commuted in Houston for 14 years and that was bad traffic - then I tried to drive through Atlanta one day at 5pm. OMG how do you people live there...?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mess with anything but Kreg. Not very expensive, so once you figure shipping and all, you may not get much of a deal on ebay.
> 
> The basic is fine
> 
> 
> But the master system is still cheap imo.



Cool. Thanks for the links.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Congratulations, I'm sorry" - A great album title (the Gin Blossoms) and I believe an appropriate comment on your change of employers. Congratulations for the new project management position and all the opportunities it brings. You have my sympathy, driving in Atlanta's rush hour traffic with the gas prices these days. Like you said, the upside outweights the bad.
> 
> 
> Have fun this weekend connecting and positioning the new subwoofer!!



Thanks. Yup, may be trading my truck for something a little more gas friendly.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah - I lived, worked and commuted in Houston for 14 years and that was bad traffic - then I tried to drive through Atlanta one day at 5pm. OMG how do you people live there...?



There are sections that are worst than others. Believe it or not, you learn the traffic patterns. You stay in certain lanes, during certain sections of highway and switch lanes strategically in others. It's weird, but it helps. I try and do the same pattern during rush hours and I'd say 8/10 times it saves me time than not doing it. I guess there are natural patterns based on how traffic merges, on/off ramp conditions, driver habits, etc.


I did the commute for many years up until the last few years. The worst traffic (from where I am) is a section of highway just north of 285. Seems like everyone is trying to get on that road and thats what causes all the traffic above it. When I went downtown last week during rush hour, it was the same thing. Once I got past 285, it was no problem at all. I guess the extra hours I put into work today will be eaten up by sitting in the car tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ... Going to get an Xray, not much they'll do though....



I had my foot Xrayed today and sure enough I broke the toe. If it had been lower, they said I would have needed a cast. Fortunately, that wasn't the case. All they do is "buddy tape" it. Some gauze between the two toes and some tape. It's a nice shade of purple, but it doesn't hurt much. Could make a nice Sherwin-Williams color for a home theater ... "Broken Toe Purple".







No, you can't use my toe to color match it!


Bud


----------



## r00ster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had my foot Xrayed today and sure enough I broke the toe. If it had been lower, they said I would have needed a cast. Fortunately, that wasn't the case. All they do is "buddy tape" it. Some gauze between the two toes and some tape. It's a nice shade of purple, but it doesn't hurt much. Could make a nice Sherwin-Williams color for a home theater ... "Broken Toe Purple".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you can't use my toe to color match it!
> 
> 
> Bud




Been there and done that. I broke my toe at HD. Really stupid. I was jumping up to get what my wife thought was a two pack of long lighters (for torches, etc) and when I came down I landed full force on my middle toe. Blew it up into six pieces. LIke you no cast needed just buddy tape. I stopped giving athletes a hard time about turf toe after that. I could not believe how painful it was.

Oh yeah, the lighters turned out to NOT be a two pack. Just a bunch of singles that they had right in front of me in the first place.










Hope yours is not as bad as mine was. Also congrats on the new job. Although the commute sucks I am sure you will be compensated for it.


Drew


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are sections that are worst than others....



Yeah, the perimeter (285). That thing is basically a nascar track with 6,000 cars.


(I did a work stint in Hotlanta for a year a while back)


[end of hijack]


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, unfortunately. Thankfully the basement is basically done. I will have to go in and deal with traffic and gas prices. The upside surely outweighs the down though. I'll just suck it up.
> 
> 
> Bud



That sounds very familiar... The upsides of my leaving Big Blue surely outweighed the downsides... Congrats!


----------



## DarkStar02

Bud,


Will you be my other father?


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


Everything is looking great!I thinnk I missed something.... Why did you get another sub? You going to use 2? Hope that toe feels better!


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


The first Hsu was the a used VTF2 (not a MK2, which was my misunderstanding). I start getting some weird pulses of noise with it. Signal or not. Eventually that the amplifier went. I called Hsu and it would have been like 200.00 to repair it, so I figured I just get a new one. Tried to save a few bucks, go burnt.


How's the boy?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DarkStar02* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Will you be my other father?



Welcome to the forum. Sure, my son could use a brother.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That sounds very familiar... The upsides of my leaving Big Blue surely outweighed the downsides... Congrats!



Thanks Tim! Looking forward to the change.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

FYI, I just cleaned up my PMs. I guess I had reached my 500 capacity, so if anyone was trying to PM me, they probably got some message that my box was full. All set now.


Bud


----------



## StewartFan20

Bud -


I've been out of town on for 5 weeks straight (between work and vacation). Needless to say, I had some AVS catching up to do. Your theater and basement is fantastic. the finishing touches you are adding are incredible. Most folks would have stopped two months ago and would have been completely happy.


By the way, congrats on the new job. Atlanta commute down 85 has been good lately....but that will surely change in a couple of weeks once school starts.


-- Bill


----------



## chinadog

Bill,


Thanks man. Things are a little slower, but still progressing. Not looking forward to the commute, but hey, change is good.


Bud


----------



## Milt99

Hey Bud, just caught up on your thread.

Congrats on the new job.

Don't let Ted T. catch a whiff of this thread or he'll buffalo you into doing his theater.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, just caught up on your thread.
> 
> Congrats on the new job.
> 
> Don't let Ted T. catch a whiff of this thread or he'll buffalo you into doing his theater.



LOL! He's left the board at Time Warner, so now I think he's focused on his Bison meat resturants (Ted's Montana Grill)... if Ted wanted to *pay* me to do his theater, I'd think I'd consider it!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud - I might have missed this in your thread but wanted to know -


1. What was the outcome of putting the new HSU sub in sideways? Did you hear back on that?


2. How does the new sub sound compared to the old one?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I might have missed this in your thread but wanted to know -
> 
> 
> 1. What was the outcome of putting the new HSU sub in sideways? Did you hear back on that?
> 
> 
> 2. How does the new sub sound compared to the old one?



Jason,


Nope, Ben is out this week on vacation, so I expect I'll talk to him next week. It sounds fine to me, although I expect it may has some impact.


It sounds great. I think its a little more powerfull than the other. I've had to turn it down some. Still need to do some calibration.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mess with anything but Kreg. Not very expensive, so once you figure shipping and all, you may not get much of a deal on ebay.
> 
> The basic is fine
> 
> 
> But the master system is still cheap imo.



I ordered the basic jig today. It may be the only time I use it, so I went basic. I probably won't do anything for another week and a half anyway. I'm still behind on a few things. Lightboxes, finishing out the ticket window and the front to my lightbox. I may work on the project box front on Sunday now that I got a new saw blade.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Looks like you'll get this basement done just in time for Football season!


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I hear the clock ticking. I fly back to the states some time between Aug 16 - 20. Everything you've done continues to impress!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Looks like you'll get this basement done just in time for Football season!



It'll be a tight squeeze, but that's about right. I'm hoping to have measurements for the counters next week.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lektern* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I hear the clock ticking. I fly back to the states some time between Aug 16 - 20. Everything you've done continues to impress!



Dave,


Glad to hear you'll be back soon. I'm still plugging away at the little things, just finished scrapping the paint around the windows. Need to get the wood for the front of the bar soon.


I was just at JoAnn fabrics and picked up my red velvet curtain for the ticket window as well.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


Give me a call or shoot me a PM with the dimensions for the plexy.


Jason


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Give me a call or shoot me a PM with the dimensions for the plexy.
> 
> 
> Jason



Working on it, just need to figure the exact size and location of my hole (







).


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don_Kellogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud I know how you feel I have calls all the time, I'm a global engineer / developer and it makes for strange hours, because of aussie land, japan, uk, etc..



Glad thats over now ... pheeeewwww.... well, one more week anyway.


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


I remember we had strikingly similar bar frames. Thought you might me interested in how mine is looking at about 90% complete:











Dave


----------



## chinadog

Dave, I did see your updates today in your thread. Great job. I'm not too far behind you, but it may be another two weeks or so before I get the coutnertops measured/ordered and installed. I also want to build the front panel system. I would love to get it all done before Labor Day weekend.... it'll be close.


----------



## hltr

Hey Bud,


Maybe you should have replaced your sub with this!


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Maybe you should have replaced your sub with this!



Its a _fan_...?!? Does anyone actually have one of those things? Does it actually work? Sounds very intriguing.


----------



## chirpie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its a _fan_...?!? Does anyone actually have one of those things? Does it actually work? Sounds very intriguing.



There was a long thread about it in the $20,000 + forum. Long story short, 120 db at 5hz and yes, it does work.


Check out the thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=651499


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chirpie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...in the $20,000 + ...



Yeah, well that's all I needed to hear. Figures.







.


Thanks for the link.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Maybe you should have replaced your sub with this!



With my luck, I'd get something caught in it (like a finger).


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drew and Mark,
> 
> 
> Not sure if you're looking for undercounter fridges for the bar, but this is the one I bought at HD. It's the Magic Chef. All the "stainless" surrounding the glass is plastic, hence the 299.00 price tag (and its made in China). The handle is stainless. Seems to work well, its pretty quiet when not cooling and does the job. I fought it hard to find find any info on the web about it, even with the model number.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to reverse the door.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


How wide is that refrig? 24" external width?


You also mentioned it was quiet except with the compressor was running. Is it just loud when it kicks on then it quiets down or is it the same level the entire "cooling" cycle? I'm asking because I plan to put a refrigerator in the wet bar area off the main HT -- however, it will only be about 7' (around a slight corner) from the seating area.


----------



## chinadog

Steve, exact measurements from the manual can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8023228 


It fits in 24" space. I wouldn't say it was loud, if I did I misspoke it's no louder than a regular fridge. I doubt you'd hear it from the seating area. In fact, I plan on getting a second one for my concession area, which will be right there about 9' away.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Give me a call or shoot me a PM with the dimensions for the plexy.
> 
> 
> Jason



Jason, did you get my PM on Friday?


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve, exact measurements from the manual can be found here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8023228
> 
> 
> It fits in 24" space. I wouldn't say it was loud, if I did I misspoke it's no louder than a regular fridge. I doubt you'd hear it from the seating area. In fact, I plan on getting a second one for my concession area, which will be right there about 9' away.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud -- must have missed it. Glad to hear the noise level is not bad.


I showed the wife the fridge -- she liked it. That's a great deal for $300.


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


I did. I called Chris and he is going to call me back tonight and let me know when it can be completed. Most likely it will be this week or weekend at the latest.


Jason


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> I did. I called Chris and he is going to call me back tonight and let me know when it can be completed. Most likely it will be this week or weekend at the latest.
> 
> 
> Jason



Cool thanks. Just wanted to double check you got it. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A few updates.


Pocket jig arrived. Need to figure out how to use it and get some wood this weekend to attempt to build the front of the bar. I'm not sure HD carries maple, so I was thinking of doing the front in poplar. Not sure yet. The key is the stain anyway.


Countertop guy came bright and early this AM and he already called back with a price. The price was right where I had hope it would be, and includes the stainless bar sink I picked out, which is great. He's coming out tomorrow to do the template.


I'm going to go with a St. Cecilia granite, we have some upstairs in the master bath. Looks like this:









Not a great picture, but gives you the idea. It'll vary some obviously. I think I'll also do the top part of the bar in granite and give up on the wood top.


So now I have the push to get the bar done prior to getting the granite installed. he says it takes about two weeks ones the template is done.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> I did. I called Chris and he is going to call me back tonight and let me know when it can be completed. Most likely it will be this week or weekend at the latest.
> 
> 
> Jason



Jason,


When you talk to Chris, check to see if you can drill small holes in this stuff. The louvered porthole cover have four screw holes to hold it in place. Not sure if you need a special bit, but doubt it. Works care is I could glue it on.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

will do.


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm going to go with a St. Cecilia granite, we have some upstairs in the master bath. Looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a great picture, but gives you the idea. It'll vary some obviously. I think I'll also do the top part of the bar in granite and give up on the wood top.



That's some nice looking stone, Bud. Beautiful tiger colors.


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Beautiful granite. Nice choice. Everything's coming together nicely. Can't wait for the final pics.

BTW, I'll be in my house and able to start my HT in about two weeks.


----------



## chinadog

Dave, thanks. Good deal on the return and have a safe trip back. Are you planning on unwinding time before you start construction or are you going to go straight at it?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's some nice looking stone, Bud. Beautiful tiger colors.



Never thought of a tiger before when I looked at it, but can see that. Neat. It should tie in nicely with the cabinets.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I'm planning to take a couple days off to spend time with the family, and a couple days to take care of Honey-Do items. Being gone for a 16 months sure puts you behind on that list. I plan to get the HT started some time in September. My goal is to have it complete by the end of the year. Very aggressive goal, but my wife will be helping me as well as other family members. I'm taking the months of Sep and Oct off, so we'll see what happens.


----------



## Cathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Never thought of a tiger before when I looked at it, but can see that. Neat. It should tie in nicely with the cabinets.
> 
> 
> Bud



Of course now every time that you see the counter tops you'll be tempted to pump your fist in the air and say "Thaaatt's GRRREAT!"


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cathan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course now every time that you see the counter tops you'll be tempted to pump your fist in the air and say "Thaaatt's GRRREAT!"



Probably not, but I will now think about your post for some time....










Bud


----------



## sdspga

I feel like I have been on a desert island for 3 weeks. Just finished up my last of several 80 hour weeks, so I am waaayyy behind on your thread.



> Quote:
> BTW, while putting in the new sub, I turn 180 degrees to get something and by accident I kicked my Berklines and heard a snap. I immediately looked to see the damage and there was none. The snap I heard was my "pinky" toe. Yup, looks like I broke it.



OK, lets get a count......You spilled the gallon of stain as you were just finishing up some trim, you then stapled your finger to some GOM, now you have broken your toe on the Berklines!!!!!


Seriously, we might need to go back to the discussion of burying the chicken foot in your back yard










Hope you feel better Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Well, it was a quart of stain and it wasn't really full. About 2 ounces of paint in a tumbling bucket down the steps, half the staple in my finger (one prong) and a broken toe (I saw the Xray). Sounds like a MasteCard commercial, I know. One badass basement, priceless.










I'm just glad I didn't catch anything in the table saw, I have my ten digits (well, eleven).










Bud


----------



## chinadog

On the bar front.... any comments or suggestions on the wood for the front? Again, I don't think they sell maple at HD. I could go find it, but I looked online at some pricing and I'm looking at about 50.00 for a 1x6x8ft board. That adds up pretty quick. Think poplar of some other "matching grain" may work that is cheaper or more readily available?


The countertop guy was here, he just made the templates. He said it could be the arround the 28th or so for the counters, so I need to get moving on the front and buy and install some corbels before that.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Today is it! My last day at IBM. I've got to leave in about 45 minutes to go turn in my laptop, badge and corp card. You guys might want to sell that stock today!


Bud


----------



## tshepherd

Bud, the HD's around me do sell Maple, but it's priced around $4-$5 per linear foot I believe (1x12). Granted the specialty lumber store down the road from me is even more, but I suspect the quality is slightly higher. Might be worth it to just bite the bullet given how much time / money you've already invested. Why skimp now (he says when asked about spending someone else's money)?










Good luck on your last day, sounds like it will be a good feeling when all is said and done.


Tom


----------



## rsberg34

LOL...sell that stock today...good stuff right there. GOod luck with the future job Bud and since its your last day we expect you to go straight home and get a few hours in on the theater










Robert


----------



## rsberg34

LOL...sell that stock today...good stuff right there. Good luck with the future job Bud and since its your last day we expect you to go straight home and get a few hours in on the theater










Robert


----------



## pathdoc

What company are you moving to? Will you be self employed? Good luck.


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


Go over to Peachstate Lumber off Moon Station Rd. in Kennesaw. They carry every type of wood species known to man and may have some suggestions. It's a cool place to go just to check out what odd stuff is available (purpleheart, tiger wood, cohoba, zebrawood, etc.)


Also, if you want I can call my bro and see what I can get the maple for. Let me know what/how much you need and I can get a price.


Ben


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


Another wood to consider:


Alder wood is great for the ability to take on different looks depending on the stain you choose.


Bob


----------



## pathdoc

Alder is an excellent wood and doesn't have a strong grain pattern.


----------



## chinadog

Guys, thanks for the suggestions.


I'll have the check the place off Moon Station for Alder and Maple. Maybe I'll take a ride down there today. Ben, will let you know what I find out. Also, I'll take a ride over and give you your compression tool. After all, I am unemployed.... until Monday.


I'm already back home (and was in the theater already). It was sad watching the manager cut up my badge. Little does he know I have another one.







(for sentimental reasons). I was so happy driving home I stopped and bought my wife some earings. She said I should quit more often.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pathdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What company are you moving to? Will you be self employed? Good luck.



Thanks. Check here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8089517 


Bud


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I was so happy driving home I stopped and bought my wife some earings.



Bud, you are not just a pretty face









Good man.


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - just catching up on you thread.


New Sub, Broken Toe, New Job, Picked Granite (same as I got for Kitchen - but mine had more Silver)......man you move along fast. Bet you slow up now you have that commute. Me I'm looking at going permanent home worker ones kids go back to school










Question - Have you used the 'Kreg Jig' yet. As you now I'm going to be doing wood panelling and was looking at using biscuit joints. Interest ed to know if the 'Kreg Jig' works out well.


Glad the wife like the earings - made up for the new Sub










Mark


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - just catching up on you thread.
> 
> 
> New Sub, Broken Toe, New Job, Picked Granite (same as I got for Kitchen - but mine had more Silver)......man you move along fast. Bet you slow up now you have that commute. Me I'm looking at going permanent home worker ones kids go back to school
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question - Have you used the 'Kreg Jig' yet. As you now I'm going to be doing wood panelling and was looking at using biscuit joints. Interest ed to know if the 'Kreg Jig' works out well.
> 
> 
> Glad the wife like the earings - made up for the new Sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Hey Mark, welcome back from the land of the Mouse.


I expect things will slow down some with the new job, but I really don't have much left to worry about.


I'm hoping to use the jig soon. I just opened the packaging, that's about it. I'm hoping today I'll be able to get some wood and play with it. I'll keep you posted.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, you are not just a pretty face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good man.



LOL










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, took a ride over to Peach State Lumber today in Kennesaw and looked at hard maple, soft maple and alder. The soft maple looked fine and was the cheapest of the three, so I bought one 9' board to experiment with. It's 13/16 thick and about 6 inches wide and was about 20.00 for the board. I figure I'll need about 12 boards just to do the framing around the bar. The soft maple was 3.95 a board foot, the hard maple 5.50 a board foot and the alder was 4.25 a board foot.


Bud


----------



## pathdoc

Soft maple works pretty easy. Hard maple is pretty much impossible to work with, its just too darned hard.


----------



## hltr

Bud,


I have only done 3/4 work with the Kreg. I know you can adjust it, but I don't know to what degree. Hopefully you'll find a setting that works on the 13/16.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pathdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Soft maple works pretty easy. Hard maple is pretty much impossible to work with, its just too darned hard.



The soft stuff is harder than I expected. I figured it would be more like a harder pine.


So far, I'm not liking the way it takes the stain, granted I used the water-based stuff initially. I also had some oil based stain and the wood just sucked it up.


I'll keep playing around with it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I have only done 3/4 work with the Kreg. I know you can adjust it, but I don't know to what degree. Hopefully you'll find a setting that works on the 13/16.



That's the rough cut, it needs to be planed or sanded anyway. I'm sure the jig will be fine.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The soft stuff is hard than I expected. I figured it would be more like a harder pin.
> 
> 
> So far, I'm not liking the way it takes the stain, granted I used the water-based stuff initially. I also had some oil based stain and the wood just sucked it up.
> 
> 
> I'll keep playing around with it.
> 
> 
> Bud



As I was reading your thread (kind of weird to fast forward through broken toe, bad sub, new sub, old job, new job







) I saw you were looking at maple and wanted to stain it -- I was going to comment that staining maple is hard at best but then I see that you've just found that out. It does take dyes better than stains (maybe that's what your water based stuff was?).


I would reconsider the alder. It takes stains really well. We have it in our kitchen and I like to build furniture with it.


Poplar is okay, but it can have a green hue to it (better as a painted wood to be honest). You might look into birch -- you can get nice birch plywood (multi-ply stuff like baltic birch or russian birch), that is if you were going to do recessed panels, I can't remember.


Anyway, I have a ton of book knowledge and a bit of working knowledge about this stuff if you want to PM me with any questions.


Good luck, and I totally get you with the "accidents" part







I don't think I've done a single step in my HT yet without screwing something up!


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


I'll take another look at the alder, thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hi, ho, hi, ho. It's off to sit in traffic I go...


I doubt I'll be on AVS this afternoon, but you never know....










Bud


----------



## pathdoc

I used poplar for my columns. I wanted to use real wood but knew they were going to be painted. Very easy to work.


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Good luck at the new job today!!


Never know... might find some more HT enthusiasts at your new work!!!


Sean


----------



## Smegger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pathdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used poplar for my columns. I wanted to use real wood but knew they were going to be painted. Very easy to work.




So what are poplars made of on your side of the planet?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud...
> 
> 
> Good luck at the new job today!!
> 
> 
> Never know... might find some more HT enthusiasts at your new work!!!
> 
> 
> Sean



Thanks Sean, wasn't a bad first day. Orientation, badge, parking, laptop, access, that sort of thing. Real work starts tomorrow!


HT hasn't come up in any discussions at this point, but I'm sure I'll wiggle it into the conversations at some point.


So far, not a bad ride at 50 minutes each way. I expect today was a good day though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pathdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used poplar for my columns. I wanted to use real wood but knew they were going to be painted. Very easy to work.



I think I may give the alder a try, if it stains easily as people say, that'll work for me.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I was reading your thread (kind of weird to fast forward through broken toe, bad sub, new sub, old job, new job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I saw you were looking at maple and wanted to stain it -- I was going to comment that staining maple is hard at best but then I see that you've just found that out. It does take dyes better than stains (maybe that's what your water based stuff was?).
> 
> 
> I would reconsider the alder. It takes stains really well. We have it in our kitchen and I like to build furniture with it.
> 
> 
> Poplar is okay, but it can have a green hue to it (better as a painted wood to be honest). You might look into birch -- you can get nice birch plywood (multi-ply stuff like baltic birch or russian birch), that is if you were going to do recessed panels, I can't remember.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have a ton of book knowledge and a bit of working knowledge about this stuff if you want to PM me with any questions.
> 
> 
> Good luck, and I totally get you with the "accidents" part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I've done a single step in my HT yet without screwing something up!
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, thanks. I appreciate the comments and the help.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I ordered my bar faucet yesterday, it's nothing too exciting, although its similar to the one we have in our kitchen but smaller and with less extras. It's a Delta 190SS single handle bar faucet, part of the "Waterfall" series. I just need to call the granite guy to give him the information.


Bud


----------



## RAPTORHT

Bud,


Just finished reading your construction thread. Took me several days to get through it all. Kudos to your attention to detail and craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing it all, especially the pics. The basement looks great. (can you even call it a basement anymore?)


We just had an HT meet at Don's place last week and were wondering who would be the next one to volunteer, I nominate you!










I was curious as to how the Aura shaker's were working out. I have a pair of the AST-2B-4 that I have mounted directly on my recliner, but have read that using a riser and mounting them to the riser gives a better overall effect. Care to comment?


Jason


----------



## Eddie Horton

Bud, I've been following your thread for a while and just wanted to chime in and say what a great job you've done. Since I started my own build, it's easier to appreciate the time it takes to bring it all together. Looking forward to more pics and info.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RAPTORHT* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Just finished reading your construction thread. Took me several days to get through it all. Kudos to your attention to detail and craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing it all, especially the pics. The basement looks great. (can you even call it a basement anymore?)
> 
> 
> We just had an HT meet at Don's place last week and were wondering who would be the next one to volunteer, I nominate you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was curious as to how the Aura shaker's were working out. I have a pair of the AST-2B-4 that I have mounted directly on my recliner, but have read that using a riser and mounting them to the riser gives a better overall effect. Care to comment?
> 
> 
> Jason



Hey Jason, thanks. Actually, I have been thinking about a meet, but haven't formulated anything yet. I'll definately figure it out and propose a Saturday out a month or two ahead. Still got a few more things to take care of before that happens. It is in the back of my head.


On the shakers, they're still in the boxes. I think it depends on the type and quanity as well. My gut is that the Aura shakers will do the job if mounted directly to each seat, but may not do as well in a riser. I would think Buttkickers would be a better solution, but as always, others have their opinions and will probably voice them. I can't talk to the riser mounting option, since I haven't done it before.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eddie Horton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I've been following your thread for a while and just wanted to chime in and say what a great job you've done. Since I started my own build, it's easier to appreciate the time it takes to bring it all together. Looking forward to more pics and info.



Eddie, no problem, that's how I learned, so figured I'd do what I could for payback.


Bud


----------



## pathdoc

I'm considering running speaker cables so I could possibly add buttkickers at some later date. I'm thinking of running wires so the first row (3 seats) could be connected.


----------



## chinadog

I ran two pairs to each section of seats, I figure I'd have a combintation of serial/parallel connections, but have to go revisit the thread on the subject. I just plated them for now and we'll figure it out later.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - you used that kreg jig yet. I'm trying to decide whether to order one of thos or a biscuit joiner.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark, not yet. But should tomorrow or Sunday.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I managed to get to Peach State Lumber and buy some alder. I bought 12 8' boards all width varying widths (thats how they sell it), with a minimum of about 5 inches. After talking with the guy for a while, he gave me the contractor rate, so I was pleasantly surprised. I also talked to him about matching plywood, since they didn't carry alder ply (apparently its too expensive, so nobody uses it) and he recommended red birch ply, which they carry in 1/4" and 3/4".


My son had baseball in the afternoon, so I didn't get to do much yesterday on the bar, but did manage to rip all the wood down to the 4.5 inch widths required based on my calculations for the layout. Turns out that 4.5" widths will allow me to have all the panels approximately 18.25 inches wide. It varies just slightly from section to section, but its real close and won't be noticeable. I got lucky there...


I made a few cuts for the angles (22.5 degrees) needed for the angled corners. I just used some blue tape temporarily to hold them in place so I could measure the next piece. Here are those shots.



















Today I'll work on the vertical pieces and tie it all together.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead and ordered alder corbels for the bar as well. They're pretty nice, not too fancy and are the right size. I'll be able to stain them to match as well. Should give the bar that little extra something. They will be visible from the sitting area, so I wanted to do something nice and functional. The corbels actually cost more than the lumber I bought yesterday!









http://www.premierwood.com/catalog/S...?idproduct=835 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I also found out about a place that does stain matching. I want to match the color of the front of the bar with the new cabinets. Apparently you bring in a sample that you want to match, like a door and a piece of scrap wood you want to use and they'll mix up a stain for you. It's called Wood Finishers Supply and they have multiple locations/distributors, including one here close to me. Click on the complete list of locations .


The one in Atlanta can be found here:

*Wood Finisher's Supply

1454 Field Park Circle

Marietta, GA. 30066

(800) 451-0678*


Bud


----------



## mflanagan

I just bought some Plaster corbels for my bar (Painting them) and It's one off the coolest details I could have done for the bar. You wont regret the extra cost. Plus it keeps Mr. heavy Elbows from loosening your bartop. LOL


Flan


----------



## VorlonFog

*Bud:* With just that trim taped into place it's easy to see it's gonna look great. I read where you got your granite delivery scheduled, too. How's your toe and how's the commute working out so far?


----------



## chinadog

Keith,


I think it's gonna be great. I'll post some more shots later today. Granite is scheduled for the 30th.


The toe is pretty good, the swelling is pretty much gone finally. A few twinges of pain here or there, not bad though. The commute is tolerable. 50-60 mins during rush hour on good days. I'm looking at trying to hook up with some folks on a car pool, just to cut down on the gas expense (truck) and wear and tear. I may be shifting buildings in a few weeks, so until thats done, I'm on my own. The company will help you find people to carpool with and if there is enough interest, they'll even pay for a van for a vanpool. Mass transit is not an option, I don't live anywhere near the train system (Marta), but if it was, they'd pay for that as well.


Thanks for asking.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just bought some Plaster corbels for my bar (Painting them) and It's one off the coolest details I could have done for the bar. You wont regret the extra cost. Plus it keeps Mr. heavy Elbows from loosening your bartop. LOL
> 
> 
> Flan



Flan, yeah, functional and decorative. Should make a big impact.


Bud


----------



## jmfox01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I managed to get to Peach State Lumber and buy some alder. I bought 12 8' boards all width varying widths (thats how they sell it), with a minimum of about 5 inches. After talking with the guy for a while, he gave me the contractor rate, so I was pleasantly surprised. I also talked to him about matching plywood, since they didn't carry alder ply (apparently its too expensive, so nobody uses it) and he recommended red birch ply, which they carry in 1/4" and 3/4".
> 
> 
> My son had baseball in the afternoon, so I didn't get to do much yesterday on the bar, but did manage to rip all the wood down to the 4.5 inch widths required based on my calculations for the layout. Turns out that 4.5" widths will allow me to have all the panels approximately 18.25 inches wide. It varies just slightly from section to section, but its real close and won't be noticeable. I got lucky there...
> 
> 
> I made a few cuts for the angles (22.5 degrees) needed for the angled corners. I just used some blue tape temporarily to hold them in place so I could measure the next piece. Here are those shots.
> 
> 
> 
> Today I'll work on the vertical pieces and tie it all together.
> 
> 
> Bud



If you are planning to join those with the Kreg jig, the angles on the mating ends should be cut to 90 degrees and 45 degrees, not 22.5 and 22.5. Logic says 22.5 but if you do, the screw points will stick out of the mating piece (geez, I wonder how I know that







). Buried in the bowels of the Kreg manual is the recommended way to miter join a 45.


It seems like you are trying to keep all of the wood trim in this project the same, but for anyone else considering a bar application like this, this area would be perfect for using a figured wood to add some wow factor. West Penn Hardwoods and other online dealers carry some really impressive stuff. (on West Penn's site, click the "wood products" link, then select "highly Figured lumber"). I recently built my daughter a poker table with a top rail of curly quartersawn white oak and the 3 dimensional figure in it is very cool looking. Sorry, I don't have 5 posts yet so can't attach pictures


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmfox01* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you are planning to join those with the Kreg jig, the angles on the mating ends should be cut to 90 degrees and 45 degrees, not 22.5 and 22.5. Logic says 22.5 but if you do, the screw points will stick out of the mating piece (geez, I wonder how I know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Buried in the bowels of the Kreg manual is the recommended way to miter join a 45.
> 
> 
> It seems like you are trying to keep all of the wood trim in this project the same, but for anyone else considering a bar application like this, this area would be perfect for using a figured wood to add some wow factor. West Penn Hardwoods and other online dealers carry some really impressive stuff. (on West Penn's site, click the "wood products" link, then select "highly Figured lumber"). I recently built my daughter a poker table with a top rail of curly quartersawn white oak and the 3 dimensional figure in it is very cool looking. Sorry, I don't have 5 posts yet so can't attach pictures



On the posts, there is a test area you can use to fill your quota. Check the main forums page and scroll to the bottom. I didn't plan on using the jig for those joints. I'll build three separate frames and basically butt them up againest each either. I was going to use the jig for joints between the horizontal and vertical pieces only.


Which leads me to to the question ... why don't I just build it on the wall piece by piece using some contruction adhesive and some stragetically placed 2" brads? Besides stronger joints, any other advantage? I am NOT a woodworker, I just pretend to be one on TV....


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

I don't see why you wouldn't do it that way to be honest. I think the kreg is better suited for face frames and boxes. For what you're trying to do just gluing and nailing it to the front of the bar is the way to go. I'd just use some 16ga 1-1/2" or 2" nails and good old yellow wood glue. Construction adhesive would work fine too, but you wouldn't have to.


The birch ply is pretty flexible in terms of staining it to match other woods. Sounds like you could take it with you (along with the alder) when you match your cabinet wood and then you'd know for sure it would match.


I agree with one of the other posters about trying a contrasting look with your panels. If you thought about doing that you might ask the stain store for their advice. It'd be awful to put all that work into it to only have it look bad (I'm not saying you would, just if I did it, chances are it would for me







-- I'm not good at things like colors, but if I get the right advice I can do the implementation if you know what I mean).


Mike


----------



## chinadog

I'll hash through the panels again. Maybe it does make sense to do the insert of the panels something completely different. I'll chew on that. I had a particular look in mind, maybe I'll do the inserts something completely different. The good news is that all I need to do to get the counters installed is to build the frame from the alder and add the corbels. The panel inserts can be done later. I could even just paint the drywall behind it for now and experiment later.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll hash through the panels again. Maybe it does make sense to do the insert of the panels something completely different. I'll chew on that. I had a particular look in mind, maybe I'll do the inserts something completely different. The good news is that all I need to do to get the counters installed is to build the frame from the alder and add the corbels. The panel inserts can be done later. I could even just paint the drywall behind it for now and experiment later.



I think your idea of painting the drywall and experimenting later sounds great. I just wish *I* was that patient







.


Have you ever seen inset panels where the wood grain is turned to a different angle (typically 45 degrees) with respect to the background? That's one I've seen and although I don't agree with it personally, it's one very different idea that might kickstart others. You could also consider staining the trim molding around the center panel a slightly darker color in the same family. It would add just a bit of accent beyond the frame itself without detracting from the beauty of the wood behind it. I'll wager your hardwood dealer could provide some new or unusual suggestions, too. Whatever you decide to do, I'm certain it will turn out great.


----------



## BritInVA

Hi Bud, I would think that using the kreg jig for you panel frames joins will give you better alignment on the face and tight tighter joins. I'm still trying to decide myself between the kreg and a biscuit joiner for my panelling.


While I was at Disney I took some pics of the British Pub bar in Epcot.




















Looked pretty authentic.


----------



## chinadog

I finished the layout of the panels and plan on pulling it all back off and sanding it this week. Next Saturday, I'll go to the stain place and start staining.


I built three separate panels and butt them up against each other. Since the bar is made with two 45 degree turns, where the panels meet, I cut those sides at 22.5 degrees. It was each to cut the horizontal pieces at 22.5 degrees, since my compound mitre has the angle notched out as a standard cut. FOr the vertical pieces, I had to run the piece through the table saw with the angle set at 22.5 degrees. I got the angle on the table saw by using a scrap piece of wood I cut on the mitre saw at 22.5 degrees and layed it flat on the table saw. I then adjust the blade so it laid flush with the cut. After that, I had to just make sure the fence was the right distance for it only took off the back of side of the board.


I used scrap pieces of wood as a stop for the panels once laid up on the knee wall. This would simulate the bottom of the granite countertop and makes it flush. I just screwed them into the top of the 2x6 for the bar. I gave myself just a fraction of an inch on the bottom for shims to ensure I can get everything flush under the counter. Once secured, the gap will be covered with quarter round.


So here's the smallest panel being put together. First I mark each board while still on the wall so I know which is which and what side is the front. I used blue tap for that. I then have to flip the who panel upside down on a surface to use the jig. This picture shows the jog clamped and flush to the side of the board where the joint will be.










Close up of the jig in position. Nice foot.










Here's what it looks like after drilling the wholes. I'm using 3/4 inch stock, so the jig is set to a 3/4 position for perfect distance and hole depth. If you use other sized stock lumber, the whole will be a little further away from the end. These holes will get 3/4 inch screws. Wood glue between the boards.


























So here is what the bar looks like dry fit. So far, so good.


















Each of the open slots is approximately 18 3/8 with a couple being 18 1/4. You'd never see it with the human eye though.


Overall, the jig worked well and it went together quickly. Easier than biscuits. I assume biscuits would be stronger, but this is suffiicient for this purpose. Thanks for the recommendation.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you ever seen inset panels where the wood grain is turned to a different angle (typically 45 degrees) with respect to the background? That's one I've seen and although I don't agree with it personally, it's one very different idea that might kickstart others. You could also consider staining the trim molding around the center panel a slightly darker color in the same family. It would add just a bit of accent beyond the frame itself without detracting from the beauty of the wood behind it.



I have not seen a 45 degree panel. Not sure I'd like that. I like your idea about the darker moulding. I plan on using molding to hold the panel in place, so that's not a bad idea once I figure out the panel color itself.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud, I would think that using the kreg jig for you panel frames joins will give you better alignment on the face and tight tighter joins. I'm still trying to decide myself between the kreg and a biscuit joiner for my panelling.



Mark, I'm been in that pub at Epcot. Pretty nice. I think the jig works well, gives you a very flat joint as well. I used the included screws with the jig, but they were fine and I ran out of them, so I used course 3/4 deck screws from there and that seemed to work better with this wood. I believe they say to use course screws on softer wood. I think I'd use it again if I had to do it again. Biscuits work well, but more work.


Bud


----------



## new_to_this




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud, I would think that using the kreg jig for you panel frames joins will give you better alignment on the face and tight tighter joins. I'm still trying to decide myself between the kreg and a biscuit joiner for my panelling.
> 
> 
> While I was at Disney I took some pics of the British Pub bar in Epcot.
> 
> 
> Looked pretty authentic.



Hey, I was at that bar 10, err, uh 14 years ago. Man, where does the time go?


China, everything looks great. I see you around everywhere, especially the Flyin thread. Great stuff in here.


----------



## accts4mjs

Nice job bud, that looks really sweet! I think the kreg jig provides a joint at least as strong if not stronger than biscuits (that's what the magazines claim and I've done both and would agree). It's what all the cabinet shops use around here so it must be good or they wouldn't bother (warranty calls are business killers).


If you're still looking for options if you want a slightly higher end look you could go with some burled veneer over 1/4" ply and cut them into 4 quarters turned 45 deg to center (if you can picture that). Or even just the burl by itself (easier to install). Just a thought










Mike


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you're still looking for options if you want a slightly higher end look you could go with some burled veneer over 1/4" ply and cut them into 4 quarters turned 45 deg to center (if you can picture that). Or even just the burl by itself (easier to install). Just a thought



Mike, I can look up the burled stuff, but can't picture what you mean by the second part. So are you thinking it would look almost diamond shaped? Of use four separate quarters and rotate each piece, sort of like an inlay?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *new_to_this* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, I was at that bar 10, err, uh 14 years ago. Man, where does the time go?
> 
> 
> China, everything looks great. I see you around everywhere, especially the Flyin thread. Great stuff in here.



Thanks, I try and spread myself thin.







Too thin sometimes...


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, the jig worked well and it went together quickly. Easier than biscuits. I assume biscuits would be stronger, but this is suffiicient for this purpose. Thanks for the recommendation.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey C-Dog nice work as always. Can you believe how simple that Kreg is to use? And for what it's worth, I'm not so certain that biscuits are stronger. The depth and bite on the screws is tougher imo, especially if you go with the bigger sizes. In any case, strength is not much of an issue for your application. Those rails and stiles aren't going anywhere, right?


Would be fun to test biscuits/pocket holes on a demo sometime.


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike, I can look up the burled stuff, but can't picture what you mean by the second part. So are you thinking it would look almost diamond shaped? Of use four separate quarters and rotate each piece, sort of like an inlay?
> 
> 
> Bud



Not quite an inlay, just more of fancy veneering I guess (I'm sure that's the term for it







).


Here's an example of just two pieces turned 45 degrees:
http://www.harpgallery.com/html/pict...setdecosm6.JPG 


These pieces have various types of veneering examples:
http://www.goantiques.com/scripts/images,id,592525.html 


And some more (these are really top end examples):
http://www.deco-dence.com/generic.ht...RWRJPX0?pid=49 


I realize these are all Art Deco examples (it is what I like after all so I'm more familiar with it) but I think it also helps portray what I'm trying to describe. More or less I'm just trying to add to your endless possibilities to choose from -- that's helping, right?!










Mike


----------



## hltr

By the way Bud... if it were me I would now rabbit the backside of those openings with your router so your panels will sit nicely. IF you are going with panels that is.


----------



## accts4mjs

Do the panels, do the panels -- it'll look a ton better than painted











(Did I say that out loud?)


Mike


----------



## r00ster

Hey Bud, the bar is looking nice. I think the kreg is perfect for what you are doing. I have both and for large frames I like the kreg. My bar will be similar to what you are doing. I am a month or so out from that though. For what it's worth I think a single stain color looks better IMO. It is more Irish authentic anyway







Keep up the great work....


Oh yeah where is the beer tap?


Drew


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way Bud... if it were me I would now rabbit the backside of those openings with your router so your panels will sit nicely. IF you are going with panels that is.



Oh defintely going panels, no doubt. Planned on using some sort of trim to hold them in place, but need to figure it out still. One step at a time...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r00ster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, the bar is looking nice. I think the kreg is perfect for what you are doing. I have both and for large frames I like the kreg. My bar will be similar to what you are doing. I am a month or so out from that though. For what it's worth I think a single stain color looks better IMO. It is more Irish authentic anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the great work....
> 
> 
> Oh yeah where is the beer tap?
> 
> 
> Drew



Drew,


Had a few choices. One, beer fridge where the existing fridge is. Two, where the dishwasher is. Three, I put an outlet in the closet, I can put a keg fridge in the closet and I have a wall tap , so I just run the tubing through the wall. Leaning towards option three, but need to do some research still.....


I think the single color is more "pub-ish" which is what I was leaning towards, but I'll maybe work on a few options and post here for opinions.


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh defintely going panels, no doubt. Planned on using some sort of trim to home them in place, but need to figure it out still. One step at a time...
> 
> 
> Bud



Gotcha. Well if you're gonna trim 'em out then I guess you can just liquid nail those panels. Then then trim doesn't have to "hold" anything.


Hey.. about the keg. My uncle has one that's not real close to the tapper and he's got problems with too much foam. I don't know if the distance is the problem or what. Just a thought as you research.


----------



## BoblK

Hi Bud,


Greetings from China


The bar looks real good. Those panels, corbles and that granite top will really make it look fantastic. How do you like working with the alder compared to the maple you were looking at?


Bob


----------



## chinadog

Hey Bob,


Thanks. I haven't tried to stain anything yet, but expect it'll take stain well. It's softer than the maple and pretty easy to work with so far. This is my first experience with alder and so far I'm pretty happy with it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hltr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey.. about the keg. My uncle has one that's not real close to the tapper and he's got problems with too much foam. I don't know if the distance is the problem or what. Just a thought as you research.



If I go that route, I'll keep that in mind. My run shold be pretty short. The closet is right behind the bar, so it should be short. I'm not sure I'm going to do it. The other problem is that there won't be any room fo a nice tap handle, I'll be limited on vertical space since it'll have to go under the cabinets.


Bud


----------



## david_pflanzer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I go that route, I'll keep that in mind. My run shold be pretty short. The closet is right behind the bar, so it should be short. I'm not sure I'm going to do it. The other problem is that there won't be any room fo a nice tap handle, I'll be limited on vertical space since it'll have to go under the cabinets.
> 
> 
> Bud



Beer is my other passion... I currently have six beers on tap (all home brewed) and my guests love the selection. I'm sure your bar area will be a hit.


Here is some further advice for your install...


Your beer line can really be any distance from the keg to the tap. The longer the flow line the higher you will have to pressure the keg. When you change keg pressures it takes a while for it to take affect because the co2 absorption is a slow process. However, longer beer lines will drop the temp of the beer and are more time consuming to clean and replace (yes, you should clean your tap lines every month or so) so under six foot is ideal. Also, keep all the beer lines at the same length, this allows you to share a common tank between multiple beers and still retain the same pressure.


If you have space in the closet consider a small upright chest freezer with an external temp controller. This is often the cheapest way to go and will allow you to have more than one keg on tap.


For english ales and Guinness make sure you get a special tank with the co2/nitrogen mix for that creamy head. You will also need a special tap.


Do you like to cook? Well making beer is just like cooking, consider making your house beer. How about Blazing Ridge Wheat/Amber/IPA/Bitter??


Good luck,


David.


----------



## HeyNow^

I'm rooting for floating panels with a routed edge on the back of your stiles.







That way, the panels can float and expand. Since you have a table saw, gluing several boards together and cutting the angle edge of all side of your panel should be a piece of cake.


Regardless of what you end up doing, I'm sure it's gonna look great! Every thing else you have done up to this point has been stellar.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Beer is my other passion... I currently have six beers on tap (all home brewed) and my guests love the selection. I'm sure your bar area will be a hit.
> 
> 
> Here is some further advice for your install...
> 
> 
> Your beer line can really be any distance from the keg to the tap. The longer the flow line the higher you will have to pressure the keg. When you change keg pressures it takes a while for it to take affect because the co2 absorption is a slow process. However, longer beer lines will drop the temp of the beer and are more time consuming to clean and replace (yes, you should clean your tap lines every month or so) so under six foot is ideal. Also, keep all the beer lines at the same length, this allows you to share a common tank between multiple beers and still retain the same pressure.
> 
> 
> If you have space in the closet consider a small upright chest freezer with an external temp controller. This is often the cheapest way to go and will allow you to have more than one keg on tap.
> 
> 
> For english ales and Guinness make sure you get a special tank with the co2/nitrogen mix for that creamy head. You will also need a special tap.
> 
> 
> Do you like to cook? Well making beer is just like cooking, consider making your house beer. How about Blazing Ridge Wheat/Amber/IPA/Bitter??
> 
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> 
> David.



Hey David, thanks for the reply. I'd have to measure exactly, but would except the line to be no more than 6 feet. I'm going to be limited on space in the closet. I used a 24" door and the interior is probably 30" or less.


I brewed beer once, a while back with my brother in law. I believe we did an ale, and bottled it in swing top bottles. It may be something to consider down the road, assuming I get the keg situation straight.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm rooting for floating panels with a routed edge on the back of your stiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That way, the panels can float and expand. Since you have a table saw, gluing several boards together and cutting the angle edge of all side of your panel should be a piece of cake.



Randy


Plus, I have a plate joiner, so that helps as well. I have a router, might be an excuse to get a router table. I assume I'd have to use a straight bit int he router to do the back of the stiles/rails, but since it's already screwed and glued, will the corners give me a problem?


Bud


----------



## david_pflanzer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey David, thanks for the reply. I'd have to measure exactly, but would except the line to be no more than 6 feet. I'm going to be limited on space in the closet. I used a 24" door and the interior is probably 30" or less.
> 
> 
> I brewed beer once, a while back with my brother in law. I believe we did an ale, and bottled it in swing top bottles. It may be something to consider down the road, assuming I get the keg situation straight.
> 
> 
> Bud



Brewing to kegs is much easier than bottling. Homebrewers mostly use the old 5gal pepsi or coke stainless kegs. They are easy to come by and cost about $35 ea. Also they take up much less space, you can fit two of them in the space you would normally need for an import keg.


You would be suprised at how good home brewed beer can taste. Best of all, you have a product that is uniqe to YOU. Unless of course you get Taco Mac to put your Blazing Ridge Bitter on tap. :>


David.


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Plus, I have a plate joiner, so that helps as well. I have a router, might be an excuse to get a router table. I assume I'd have to use a straight bit int he router to do the back of the stiles/rails, but since it's already screwed and glued, will the corners give me a problem?
> 
> 
> Bud



Actually I'd just use a rabbiting bit and you could run the rails/stiles prebuilt around the bit and be good to go. You could then either chop the corners of your panels to fit the rounded edge on the back of the rails/stiles or just use a chisel to quickly chop the corners square.


As for a router table I've been through a few and quite honestly the easiest is to cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, drill the hole big enough for your bits, attach your router base to the back and use a jointed piece of 2x4 or something like that as the fence. You clamp it on one edge and gently push it into the running bit from the other and you have a nice zero clearance face







Or you can just cut a nice semi-circle into the fence with your jigsaw or bandsaw or coping saw or whatever. Piece of cake.


Mike


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I was thinking of a rabbit on the back all the way around the "frame" and then just set the panel in the opening from the back before you attach the stiles/frame. I think you are thinking a groove in the stiles/frame but you have already screwed them together. At the corners, just use a chisel. Or buy one of those corner thingies that Norm uses to square up the corners.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually I'd just use a rabbiting bit and you could run the rails/stiles prebuilt around the bit and be good to go. You could then either chop the corners of your panels to fit the rounded edge on the back of the rails/stiles or just use a chisel to quickly chop the corners square.
> 
> 
> As for a router table I've been through a few and quite honestly the easiest is to cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, drill the hole big enough for your bits, attach your router base to the back and use a jointed piece of 2x4 or something like that as the fence. You clamp it on one edge and gently push it into the running bit from the other and you have a nice zero clearance face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just cut a nice semi-circle into the fence with your jigsaw or bandsaw or coping saw or whatever. Piece of cake.
> 
> 
> Mike




Mike beat me to it.


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike beat me to it.



LOL! 4 minutes apart. Nice!


Mike


----------



## HeyNow^

I'll tell you one thing, I love Bud's projects. I love watching/reading his mind working on where he's going next. I don't get tired, frustrated and the best thing of all, it doesn't cost me anything.







Thanks Bud!


BudTV.


----------



## chinadog

Guys, thanks. Got it.


Just need to figure out how to got about keeping the panels in place as you lift the frame to the wall. Sounds like another task for blue tape. Also, by using panels without trim to hold them in place, forces me to make a decision on the panels quickly, since I have to have the frame and corbels in place prior to the granite being installed. At least I prefer it that way. I'd hate to have something happen to it after spending all that cash. Maybe I should put the frame up, get the granite installed and then add the corbels?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll tell you one thing, I love Bud's projects. I love watching/reading his mind working on where he's going next. I don't get tired, frustrated and the best thing of all, it doesn't cost me anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud!
> 
> 
> BudTV.



I've been bitten by too many spontanous and ill informed decisions... I just like to think things through, all possibilities, dependencies, etc. That's just me!


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

Since you've already got the frames hung with tape just take a pencil and run it around the inside line. Route the back of your frames for the panels. Make sure they fit with just a bit of room for expansion -- the ply won't expand much but it will a bit (not as much as plain wood). Then you could just take the ply and hang it up with a couple of brads through the drywall until you hung the panels. They won't secure it long term but once the frame is up that's what secures it. Put the brads in top and bottom on the center (to allow the panel to expand and contract).


Also, don't know if you've thought about this but you want the grain running vertically up and down. I accidentally did one horizontally when I first started woodworking and it was wrong, all wrong. As soon as the piece was done I knew I'd screwed up. It's not horrible but it's wrong -- it makes the piece look bad. Not the look you'd want.


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike, thanks for the tip.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Quick updates on the corbels. Even thought they say they're in stock, they weren't. Got a phone call on Monday stating they were to come in on the 30th. So, I switched to the same corbel, but 1.5 inches wide versus 3.75 inches wide. 3.75 would have been too think IO anyway. Also the 1.5 inch ones are only like 18.00 in alder versus 44.00+ for the 3.5 inch ones, so I just saved a bunch of cash. AND their in stock. Hopefully I'll have them by the end of the week.


New ones: http://www.premierwood.com/catalog/s...idproduct=3452 


Old ones: http://www.premierwood.com/catalog/S...?idproduct=835 


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

How many are you going to put up (maybe I missed that part)? One on each rail/stile? They are going to look sweet!


----------



## jikkjack

Bud - check your PM. Your ticket window is ready.


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Love the trim on the bar. I'm liking the idea of doing stained wood inside the panels vs. painting the drywall!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How many are you going to put up (maybe I missed that part)? One on each rail/stile? They are going to look sweet!



Correct, one per stile, so I ordred 9. At 40.00+ a pop, that added up quick. Was happy to hear I had a nice refund coming.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - check your PM. Your ticket window is ready.



Just got it.. thanks. Make sure you call, the boy has baseball practice on Sat. Not sure exactly when I'll be there. No big rush either.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Love the trim on the bar. I'm liking the idea of doing stained wood inside the panels vs. painting the drywall!!



Thanks Steve. I agree, that's the plan. It'll give it a richer look obviously.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I went to WFS ( Wood Finishers Supply ) today on the way to work and drop off a sample of the filler bar for the cabinets and a piece of Alder for testing. They'll match up the stain and it should be ready by tomorrow, although I won't get it until Friday morning. This place is not open on Saturdays, so I'm glad I stopped today, otherwise I would have been screwed for the weekend. FYI...minimum amount for matching stain is a gallon.


I'm still thinking about buying a router table. I'd like to build one, but just won't have the time for it. The main reason for it is for the panels. Will I be able to use a shaper bit (like this: http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView....6&cookietest=1 ) on a router table? I'm looking to make an edge for the panels that is small enough to be allow me to hold the panel in place once I rabbet the stiles and is decorative enough to give the panels some character. Does Home Depot carry bits like these?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to WFS ( Wood Finishers Supply ) today on the way to work and drop off a sample of the filler bar for the cabinets and a piece of Alder for testing. They'll match up the stain and it should be ready by tomorrow, although I won't get it until Friday morning. This place is not open on Saturdays, so I'm glad I stopped today, otherwise I would have been screwed for the weekend. FYI...minimum amount for matching stain is a gallon.
> 
> 
> I'm still thinking about buying a router table. I'd like to build one, but just won't have the time for it. The main reason for it is for the panels. Will I be able to use a shaper bit (like this: http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView....6&cookietest=1 ) on a router table? I'm looking to make an edge for the panels that is small enough to be allow me to hold the panel in place once I rabbet the stiles and is decorative enough to give the panels some character. Does Home Depot carry bits like these?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I think the rockler bits are for shapers. Really powerful machines. I am not certain if a router could handle that much iron and carbide. I may be wrong. However, the link below shows HD does carry panel bits for routers.

HD Router Panel Bit 


Edit: this link is not the panel bit I am referring to, but it is in the router bit listing and is a Porter Cable carbide bit for $117.00. I can't get the link to work.


----------



## coastalb55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to WFS ( Wood Finishers Supply ) today on the way to work and drop off a sample of the filler bar for the cabinets and a piece of Alder for testing. They'll match up the stain and it should be ready by tomorrow, although I won't get it until Friday morning. This place is not open on Saturdays, so I'm glad I stopped today, otherwise I would have been screwed for the weekend. FYI...minimum amount for matching stain is a gallon.
> 
> 
> I'm still thinking about buying a router table. I'd like to build one, but just won't have the time for it. The main reason for it is for the panels. Will I be able to use a shaper bit (like this: http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView....6&cookietest=1 ) on a router table? I'm looking to make an edge for the panels that is small enough to be allow me to hold the panel in place once I rabbet the stiles and is decorative enough to give the panels some character. Does Home Depot carry bits like these?
> 
> 
> Bud



Yeah, the link you have is only for shapers. But you can find a lot of the same profiles in router bits. I think what you want is the raised panel bits. I don't own any Rockler bit but I've heard that they are OK but there are better bits elsewhere for good prices.


Here's links to places I browse for router bits and accessories:

Holbren 

MCLS Woodworking 

Blades n' Bits 


I have a 35 piece Holbren set and while it is inexpensive, the quality of the bits are not by any means cheap.


As far as making a router table, it is pretty straight forward. I have made mine out of a old cubicle desktop. I have an aftermarket router lift but you don't need this. If you have a plunge router, you could craft a mount for it and use a couple pieces of MDF laminated together for the table top. A fence could be as simple as a nice straight 2x4 clamped to the table top.


This site has a bunch of info and a lot of folks have made their tables, jigs etc.: Router Forum 


If it is a raised panel design you ar going for, you have to have a table. There's no way you'd be able to control a router with a bit that large.


Andy


----------



## chinadog

I want to hit the ground running here, so any work required to build a table is just going to slow me down. So what about something like this? Most of the tables I see are the router is mounted from the bottom and this is (I guess) a horizontal table.... so does it have limitations, or is it just an alternative/preference thing?

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...horiztabl.html 


Scroll down and look at the table/bit special number 1. Comments?


Sorry for the basic questions.


Bud


----------



## Cathan

Hmmm. Interesting design. Aside from being different, I'm not sure there is a lot to be gained by not going with the more widely accepted table top models.


All that aside, any time I've used my router I've used it with the board lying flat so that the wide part of the board is what the router is resting on and the bit is cutting the narrow edge of the wood. In essense this table does the opposite and as a result you may need different shaped bits to get the same effect. For example think about creating a bullnose edge. With a traditional set-up one bit will cut both the top and the bottom the the edge as the same time. With this horizontal table you need a different bit and would have to make two passes to achieve the same result.


If you needed to router wood so that normally you would be passing the narrow part of the wood against the base of the router, then I could see the horizontal table being worth it.


----------



## coastalb55

The horizontal tables have the advantage that you don't need the high power (3+ hp) router to swing the traditional 3-1/2 inch raised panel bit. I don't think they are as versitile as a vertical table top. It seems that the horizontal top would excel at doing the edges you want, but after that you might be wishing for the vertical table to do all the rest.


If I were in your shoes I'd get this set-up instead:

Router Table 


Get a featherboard for the fence to keep your stock pressed down against the table and use a miter gauge to push stock through the cutter. When using the large diameter bits it is best to take material off in a couple passes to minimize tearout. Router speed should be set low to reduce risk of burning.


What router will you be using?


Andy


----------



## chinadog

OK, so I'll look at regular vertical tables.


Andy, I have a Ryobi Variable Plunge Router, model RE175. I think it's a 1 3/4 HP. Works well, but will it make the grade?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh snap. I just though that I need some new clamps now to build these panels. It's adding up quick! Plus I'll need to get some more alder, at least a few more boards. Many of the boards I got I square off and ended up with a bunch of long scraps, not long enough to make the panels though. I guess I'll figure out something else to make with them, like accent shelves or something. I suppose I can glue together the scraps for those!


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

Bud,


Routing raised panels is certainly not out of reach just be sure you know what you're getting yourself into










1) Safety first. Those big bits will hog wood off like there's no tomorrow. Running them slow is a necessity for safety and then for cut quality. Raising the bit a little at a time and taking a bit off at a time will keep it safer (and go easier on your router, that Ryobi will take a beating from raised panels but less if you go a bit at a time).


2) Do each panel on each height setting so they match when you're done. Run the panels cross grain first, then along the grain to take out any tearout against the grain.


3) You'll need to join up your smaller boards to make a "board" wide enough for your panels. To do that you'll need a joiner and a planer. Or access to a wide belt sander (cabinet shops will do this for a fee usually -- better yet if you know someone for beer or food







). Oh, and don't forget all the clamps -- you'll want lots of clamps










4) Don't glue your panels down (now that they won't be plywood) because they'll expand and need to float within the frame (or they'll crack after a year, happened to a friend of mine on his first try).


5) If you don't have the tools to do this you might see if there's a local Woodcraft (or similar DIY woodworking store) in your area. The employees will have shops themselves and most likely would do some or all of the work for a decent price (expect higher prices from cabinet shops because it slows them down to do something that isn't in their high output scheme of things).


6) Router tables can be expensive. Like $300 - $1000. I would give serious consideration to the idea of building your own out of two pieces of plywood or MDF with a simple straight (i.e. jointed) 2x4 fence clamped on top. Seriously, they're that simple and you'll be surprised at how well they work.


I'm not trying to get your hopes down, just let you know the slippery slope you're about to descend (though it's a fun one and building raised panels is a great excuse to go buy a bunch of stuff for your new wood shop







).


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Hmmmm..... and these will be the only panels I'll likely ever build. Maybe I should reconsider the stained plywood and trim option. Since the granite is coming on Wed, that leaves me little to no time to get the tools, glue up the panels, cut the panels and shape them. Crap. Any suggestions on plywood panels? Still rabbet the backs and insert the panels, then maybe figure out some molding touches? Gluing them to the drywall is OK?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Why not just reinforce the granite top with 2X4's from the floor until you can get the panels done? Don't hurry yourself and "settle" for something that is not quite what you want.


----------



## tshepherd

Definitely don't rush Bud. You've spent all this time getting it just right, why not do something temporary as Randy said? Better that than possibly regretting whatever decision you make between now and Wednesday.


Of course it's easy to suggest you wait and take your time when it's not my project.










Tom


----------



## chinadog

Randy, yeah. I've thought of that as well.


My initial intent was to go with a plywood/trim anyway. I like the raised panel idea, but just not sure how long (and how much) doing it will take. Granted, I can use the router table, assuming that router is sufficient for it. Otherwise I'm looking at a few hundred for a table, a few hundred for a router, panel bits, the additional aldrer (but I'd have to still by ply anyway), more clamps, etc. I really, really want to get it done and if I went with the ply solution I can get it done before the granite.... but you're right I might be settling. Since I have not done panels before, I'd have to allow some additional time/money for rework as well.


I can build some temporary brackets out some scrap 2x4s to support the granite as well (versus just proping it up) and just screw it into the wall framing (not the alder) . That may be a better option. Not sure if the corbels will arrive before the end of the week either, then it'll be a mad rush to get those finished.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


If you want some raised panels let me know and we can head up to my brothers shop. He has multiple industrial shapers we can use (in fact he lost part of his finger to one a few weeks ago). It took me less than 5 minutes to make a raised panel, including sanding.


Maybe Sunday?


Ben


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> If you want some raised panels let me know and we can head up to my brothers shop. He has multiple industrial shapers we can use (in fact he lost part of his finger to one a few weeks ago). It took me less than 5 minutes to make a raised panel, including sanding.
> 
> 
> Maybe Sunday?
> 
> 
> Ben




See? I knew you could find someone that would have what you need and be able to help







(Very nice of you Ben to offer.) Even cooler that it came from the forum!


Bud, if the classic Irish pub look is what you're after then raised panels are definitely the way to go. You might even look into a coping pattern for the rails and stiles if you can do this in Ben's brother's shop (I'm sure they're setup for that kind of thing).


Mike


----------



## coastalb55

[


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so I'll look at regular vertical tables.
> 
> 
> Andy, I have a Ryobi Variable Plunge Router, model RE175. I think it's a 1 3/4 HP. Works well, but will it make the grade?
> 
> 
> Bud




Hmmm...1 3/4? That might be a little underpowered. You'll either need to make several passes per side taking just a little material off in each pass or go with a jig that stands the panel up vertically, a vertical panel bit, and a tall fence.


Or you can take Ben up on his offer to use his brother's shop. Frankly, buying tools is fun but if I had access to pro grade equipment, I'd be all over that. Plus it'll save you from laying out a bunch of cash on items you may not really need later.


Andy


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> If you want some raised panels let me know and we can head up to my brothers shop. He has multiple industrial shapers we can use (in fact he lost part of his finger to one a few weeks ago). It took me less than 5 minutes to make a raised panel, including sanding.
> 
> 
> Maybe Sunday?
> 
> 
> Ben



That would be great...


Sunday works for me. I can buy the additional lumber on Saturday, the cut them to size and glue them up. That would be great (I was hoping you would pipe in







).

I probably won't be able to go until after 11:00. That OK? I can swing by and pick you up, just let me know when.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, so some new questions now based on creating the panels with Ben. For simplicity sake, lets say the openings are exactly 18"x32". The lumber is 3/4" thick.


1. I need a rabbet bit... I don't think I have one now. What size?

2. Once I have the rabbet done, do I figure the panel size based on the size of the rabbet cut? Should it be exactly the same size or have a slight gap? I mean, I know what the opening is (18x32), if I remove a 1/2" around the perimeter of the panel opening, it then becomes 19x33 (behind the frame, still 18x32 front the front). Do I make the panel 19x33 or 18 3/4" by 32 3/4"/ If the latter, what about shifting within the frame?


bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, if the classic Irish pub look is what you're after then raised panels are definitely the way to go. You might even look into a coping pattern for the rails and stiles if you can do this in Ben's brother's shop (I'm sure they're setup for that kind of thing).
> 
> 
> Mike



I guess I can take the frames and throw them in the truck with me and see what happens...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coastalb55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...1 3/4? That might be a little underpowered. You'll either need to make several passes per side taking just a little material off in each pass or go with a jig that stands the panel up vertically, a vertical panel bit, and a tall fence.
> 
> 
> Or you can take Ben up on his offer to use his brother's shop. Frankly, buying tools is fun but if I had access to pro grade equipment, I'd be all over that. Plus it'll save you from laying out a bunch of cash on items you may not really need later.
> 
> 
> Andy



Andy, well, I could probably still use a router table, but maybe now I can just make one. Having access to Ben's brothers tool will save me the cost of buying a new router right away as well.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


Just grab the raw wood and your dimensions. He has all the planers, jointers, etc. we will need.


11:00 works for me. I'll call my bro today to double check we can have the place but don't expect it to be a problem.


Ben


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Just grab the raw wood and your dimensions. He has all the planers, jointers, etc. we will need.
> 
> 
> 11:00 works for me. I'll call my bro today to double check we can have the place but don't expect it to be a problem.
> 
> 
> Ben



Yep, this works best










I would go ahead and glue up the panels beforehand that way they're dry and you can cut them to size when you get there. Make them bigger than you need but you'll probably make a 1/4" groove with the coping setup and leave yourself at least an 1/8" for expansion (along the width, wood doesn't really expand along the length). You might put a touch of glue at the top and bottom of the panel just in the center (top and bottom) so it secures it to the frame for "anti-rattle" purposes (that will let the panel still expand through the width to the left and right). Though I'd be surprised if they actually rattle but better safe than sorry.


Mike


PS. When joining wood for the panels if you don't have a jointer then wait until you do or the edges won't join up properly (you'll have gaps). You don't want to force a board together with the clamps they should just be snug by themselves. Also, be sure to orient the boards with the growth rings going opposite direction every other board (if you lay them out and look at the ends you'll see them either all curve up or all curve down -- go one down, one up, one down -- keeps them from warping).


----------



## coastalb55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so some new questions now based on creating the panels with Ben. For simplicity sake, lets say the openings are exactly 18"x32". The lumber is 3/4" thick.
> 
> 
> 1. I need a rabbet bit... I don't think I have one now. What size?
> 
> 2. Once I have the rabbet done, do I figure the panel size based on the size of the rabbet cut? Should it be exactly the same size or have a slight gap? I mean, I know what the opening is (18x32), if I remove a 1/2" around the perimeter of the panel opening, it then becomes 19x33 (behind the frame, still 18x32 front the front). Do I make the panel 19x33 or 18 3/4" by 32 3/4"/ If the latter, what about shifting within the frame?
> 
> 
> bud



I would imagine that if Ben's brother has the cutters to to the panels then he also has the bits to do rails and stiles.

There should be a little room between the panel and the frame. This allows for some movement of the wood and won't cause anything to split.


----------



## Ben Harper

He has multiple shapers set up for essentially "one-pass" operation in building the raised panel, rails, stiles. Also, on my panels he placed these little silicone expansion beads at the corners inside the rail to keep from rattling.


It truly is a very simple operation when you have the right tools, especially when set up in an assembly line.


Ben


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He has multiple shapers set up for essentially "one-pass" operation in building the raised panel, rails, stiles. Also, on my panels he placed these little silicone expansion beads at the corners inside the rail to keep from rattling.
> 
> 
> It truly is a very simple operation when you have the right tools, especially when set up in an assembly line.
> 
> 
> Ben



Yep, you're set. What a sweet deal!! Someone owes you lunch, and dinner, and breakfast, and lunch ...


----------



## HeyNow^

Ben is the man!


----------



## chinadog

Dave (lektern)...


Did you make it back yet?


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

I arrived safely at home on Tueday night!! Thanks for asking.

Wednesday morning I cleared half my wood shop to prep the floor for epoxy coating. I'm painting it tomorrow morning. Then I'll shift everything over and do the other half. Once I have the shop reorganized, I can start on the rest of the basement, the garage, and the HT. I've got two months to get as much done as I can before going back to work, we'll see how that goes.

Obviously the HT is the priority, but I have to balance it with the Honey-Do list and spending time with wife and 21 month old daughter.


Keep us up to date on how the raised panels go. That's definitely the right look if you're going for a pub feel.


PS: I'll be starting the build thread shortly. Anyone interested in the garage and shop pics?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Great!! Welcome back!


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud,


We're on for Sunday at 11:00. Call me if there is a change.


Ben


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ben Harper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> We're on for Sunday at 11:00. Call me if there is a change.
> 
> 
> Ben



See you then.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I have a few updates, but no pictures at this point.


First, I had ordered a custom retro concession sign off ebay. That arrived. It's not the quality I expected, but it's OK. I need to hang that, its just not on my list of things to do.


Second, my wife picked up gold trim for the velvet curtain and my wood letters arrived finally for the ticket window. I think Jason has the plexiglass for the front of it in his possession.


Third, my corbels arrived and I'm very pleased with them. They're the exact same size as the ones I have at the breakfast bar in the kitchen, except more decorative and made from solid alder. I think they'll work out perfect.


Fourth, I picked up the stain from the wood working place to match the cabinet stain. Looks great! I think it's going to work out well.


In the morning I'll go get the rest of the alder to build the panels, cut them down and start gluing them up in preparation for Sunday. I'll make sure I bring the camera up to Ben's brother's place.


Bud


----------



## lektern

Bud,

Try not to spill any of the stain.


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That would be great...
> 
> 
> Sunday works for me. I can buy the additional lumber on Saturday, the cut them to size and glue them up. That would be great (I as hoping you would pipe in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I probably won't be able to go until after 11:00. That OK? I can swing by and pick you up, just let me know when.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I'm glad you are going to do it this way, because once you see those shapers in action you will know why trying to do this with your Ryobi would have been a real stretch.


Before I read this post I was going to suggest you just have your cabinet guy make the panels for you.


Now, the other thing I'm thinking about is that raised panels (which I did not realize you were considering) are meant to be placed in a groove, not a rabbet. So ideally you should unscrew your pocket joints and rip grooves into those rails and stiles. If you didn't use glue when you did the pocket joints, it should be easy enough, though I've never tried it and you may either need longer screws to get beyond the groove when you reassemble or find a way to avoid grooving near the screw holes (your could route the grooves for example and skip the areas where the rails intersect the stiles).


The reason for the groove is that the "raised" portion of the panel should end up flush with the face of the rails and styles. The way you are proceeding you may find that they look too recessed for traditional raised panels. If you like the look however, then it's all good.


Good luck.


[EDIT: Of course this all depends on the thickness of the panels and whether the shaper bit is cutting just the front, or both front and back of the panel in order to make the tongue]


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


Brian said to not rip the rails (frame?) if you can avoid it as it's easier to push a large piece of wood through the shaper then rip it. If you have already done this, no worries as we can still manage.


See you at 11:00.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Well, the frame (rails and stiles) are glued and screwed. Although typically you do the grove on the rails/stiles to accept the panel, since they're not doors, the rabbet should be fine, I would think.


I built 6 panels with rough dimensions, like 34"x21+inches based on the width of the wood, so we'll have to cut those down to size prior to putting them in the router. The first two panels aren't as nice as the last four. I got better as I went. The opening of the from is 18-1/4 to 18-3/8 inches wide and about 32" high. I left myself room for the rabbet. I plan on bring all the frames and the panels.


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, the frame (rails and stiles) are glued and screwed. Although typically you do the grove on the rails/stiles to accept the panel, since they're not doors, the rabbet should be fine, I would think.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Yeah it will work, you just want to be sure that rabbet sits nice and flush against those panels when up on the bar, so get the depth of your plunge just right.


Since you are making real wood panels, make sure you leave them loose (side to side) to allow for expansion and contraction of the panel itself. I'm not sure how much with alder.. anyone know?


You'll also want to stain them before you set them in the frame so if they contract later you won't reveal a stain line. If you get them in place and they rattle you could tack them to the bar, but if you do I would do it in the center board of each panel so the panel can still expand and contract.


Good luck dude! Very jealous here as I have no bar.


----------



## hltr

OK, just found an entire page I had missed where all of the groove stuff and rattling was discussed.... shutting up now, lol.


----------



## chinadog

So here are some pictures from some progress this weekend. A special thanks to Ben Harper and his brother Brian for use of his shop, tools, and advice. Here is how things look at this point. Although I brought the camera to the shop, I didn't take any pictures. Sorry, was preoccupied.


Some of the panels are just a hair too big, I'll either plane or sand down the edges in order to get them to fit. I realize they need a little room to expand as well. At the moment, they're just laying in the rabbet in the back of the frame. Sorry about the bad shots.


























Here are the corbels:










Here is the small frame that I'll have to redo. The rabbit was fine, this is the from the front of the frame, I just screwed up by going over a spot twice, not thinking anything about it and it just tore it up. I'll need to redo this frame this week. The panel is already done, so it shouldn't take long. I decided not to route the other fronts (luckily) and may just add some decorative trim (or not). It will have bar stools in front of it 99% of the time.










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Absolutely freaking awesome. I have been thinking about you and Ben working on this all day. I have to tell you, this is going to look great and I am happy that you decided on the panels. One of the best I've seen!


Congratulations!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Randy. It wouldn't have turned out as nice if I had done it myself. Ben's brother knows his stuff and has the tools. Ben was a big help as well. I bought the lumber for the panels yesterday and cut them down to a raw size, then used biscuits and glue to create the raw panels. Three boards per panel. Brian said you don't need the biscuits if you glue and clamp them correctly. Anyway, I brought everything up to the shop. We left 3/4 of an inch extra on the width and length and cut them on the saw. Ben ran them through the planer until they were 5/8" thick. Ben and I ran them through the shaper (holy crap, no way my router could do that) and after we were done, Brian's helper then fixed them by running them through again. I filled in the small cracks between boards with filler and Ben sanded down the panels. It took about 2 hours to get them from the raw stage to the stain ready stage. When I got home, I routed the rabbets, then messed up the one panel. All in a days work.


I'm thinking about pushing the granite install out a week just to get it all finished now.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog

Those look fantastic on your bar, Bud. Sorry to hear about the one panel. At least it wasn't a toe or finger, right?


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - those bar panels are looking great.


I love the way you show us your scew ups too .....just shows your human like the rest of us










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## hltr

Fantastic. Congrats.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. I'm very happy with them, now to get the next frame built (I have the alder on hand, glad I bought a few extra boards), get it all stained, get the corbels attached and attached to the walls.


BTW, there are two ways I'm thinking about mounting the corbels and frames. First, I can attached the frames with some construction adhesive to the drywall and a few strategic brads. I could even put a few screws in it where the corbels would cover them. The bottom brads can be hidden with quarter round. I was thinking about just gluing the corbels, but not sure that will be the best support.


Second, I could attach the corbels to the frames first, putting screws in through the back. That would give me the most support. I would then put the frames on the wall with construction adhesive and brads I was thinking of putting some trip between the corbels to hide any slight gap or brads/screws.


Any comments on this approach?


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - to give proper support to that bar I would suggest you screw them through the frame into a stud. Just use a wood plug to cover the screw.


You really don't want to risk someone leaning on that bar and pulling the frame off the wall or worse cracking the granite.


----------



## hltr

Yes, with the corbels being structural you'll want a few nice long screws from the back of the panel I would think. I'd probably use Gorilla Glue as well. And pre-drill before you drive those screws into the corbels imo and counter sink the back side of the frame to bury the screw heads.


And since we're talking granite here I'd feel alot better with screws and plugs for attaching the frame to the bar as Brit said, as opposed to adhesive or brads.


----------



## coastalb55

Bud,

Those panel look awesome. Excellent choice of profile.


I (and I'm sure a number of other people here) am living vicariuosly through you watching tthe progress of your basement. It has me dreaming of the day that I either move somewhere that I can have a basement or have room for a theater/recreation area. Right now my only option is building up and that's not happening anytime soon.


Andy


----------



## chinadog

Mark, ideally, yes, long screws and plugs would work out best. I think though if I go with the route hltr is talking about, I can avoid the plugs. Plus, in many cases, the corbels won't line up exactly with the studs. The top portion of the corbel will meet with a horizontal 2x6 that the wall was built from, but the that have to be one very long screw to go through 5 inches of corbel, 1/2 drywall and then into the wood. I'd have to get like 7" screws.


I think that using screws from the back is the most appealing (and would definitely use gorilla glue). I can then use construction adhesive and screws at the very top and bottom of the frames so I can hide them with 1/4 round. I was thinking of brads just to hold it in place until the construction adhesive dried, not for real structural support. I just have to make sure I can get alder 1/4 round (or something that's close).


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coastalb55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> Those panel look awesome. Excellent choice of profile.
> 
> 
> I (and I'm sure a number of other people here) am living vicariuosly through you watching tthe progress of your basement. It has me dreaming of the day that I either move somewhere that I can have a basement or have room for a theater/recreation area. Right now my only option is building up and that's not happening anytime soon.
> 
> 
> Andy



Hey Andy,


Thanks and thanks for the reply.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


Could you use that Kreg jig to create 2 slots in the top of the corbel that you could run screws through to the back and into the top plate of the bar frame?!! And then run a couple of screws through the bottom portion making it pretty sturdy?!

I agree with some of the other guys, you really should have those anchored into a stud of the bar frame for them to be structural, otherwise they are purely decorative.


----------



## VorlonFog

*Bud:* You mentioned quarter-round, but is there also going to be a baseboard running along the bottom? Might make it easier to add a brass (or other material) foot rail later.


Also, if it's not too late, could you nail in a 2x4 horizontally between the studs behind the sheet rock to provide structural support for the corbels?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Could you use that Kreg jig to create 2 slots in the top of the corbel that you could run screws through to the back and into the top plate of the bar frame?!! And then run a couple of screws through the bottom portion making it pretty sturdy?!
> 
> I agree with some of the other guys, you really should have those anchored into a stud of the bar frame for them to be structural, otherwise they are purely decorative.



Sean,


Aha! I may be able to do that with some 3-3.5 inch screws. Sort of like toenailing it. That might just give me enough length and the right angle to hit the 2x6. The only support on the bottom will be through the frame itself, since the frame won't line up with an studs (at least not the interim ones).


Thanks for the idea!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Bud:* You mentioned quarter-round, but is there also going to be a baseboard running along the bottom? Might make it easier to add a brass (or other material) foot rail later.
> 
> 
> Also, if it's not too late, could you nail in a 2x4 horizontally between the studs behind the sheet rock to provide structural support for the corbels?



Keith,


No, I was thinking of just using the 1/4 round to address where the frame meets the floor. No baseboard. I think some people also build a step/foot rest at the bottom, but I don't plan on that either. A brass rail (or some other finish) may be a possibility later at some point.


On the extra support. I suppose I could tear out some drywall and redo it. You would want a flat surface for the frames/panels to rest on it, so you need something there. Worth a thought. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the extra support. I suppose I could tear out some drywall and redo it. You would want a flat surface for the frames/panels to rest on it, so you need something there. Worth a thought. Thanks.



I only mentioned it because I didn't know whether you already had cabinets installed behind the sheet rock. If you've previously mentioned it or shared photos, I must have missed it.


----------



## SmX

Bud your thread is like a "This Old House" episode. You covered every upgrade in your house from showers to toilets to crown molding to home theater. When are you going to start on the car makeover?







LOL


Looking good!


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


LOL, Wish I had Norm here doing all the work! Thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Keith,


Cabinets are installed on the other side of the wall, but I would still be able to possibly pull drywall from the panel side if I had to. I may give Sean's idea (and a combination of the others) a shot and see what happens.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Bud those cabinet fronts look great.....how many versions did you try before you decided on that one?


Whats next for the HT?


Robert


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


One iteration. I think the bit was already in the shaper, there was a board that was already run through there, it looked good to me.


The only things I have left are the front of the projector box still, finishing out the ticket window, build the lightboxes, get the granite installed in the concession area and do some shoe molding. Oh and paint the register cover and alarm speaker in the HT room. That's about it.


Next year I'll look at doing a star ceiling and adding a htpc.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud...


Ooo... I look forward to seeing your HTPC setup next year!! I've been tossing around the idea, and have decided to wait till Vista comes out before going ahead. If you document that install like you have with this theater build, it will read like a how-to!!


----------



## chinadog

Granite is coming tomorrow, if I have to reschedule, it'll be another month before I can get back on their schedule. They said with my overhang and 2x6 construction should be fine and I can temporarily use 2x4 supports.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

So with the countertops going in tomorrow, and you working from an office now, does this mean you'll be taking a day off?!


----------



## chinadog

They're coming at 8:30, so I'll leave after that.


Bud


----------



## rsberg34

Bud,


Which can lights are you going with? I am taking a survey if sorts since I know nothing about this kind of thing and am rapidly approaching needing to make this decision for my theater build. I have all the framing done and will be installing the RSIC on the ceiling today so I can get to drywalling the ceiling. I wasnt going to go with can lights on the ceiling originally but have changed my mind so I am trying to figure out which design/model to go with so I can start builing the MDF box's for them prior to drywalling.


Thanks.....Robert


----------



## chinadog

Robert,


I used Halo for the 6" cans, purchased from Home Depot by the box of 6. They were model number H7ICTs. The 4" cans were also Halos, model H99ICT from Lighting Fixtures & Ceiling Fans . I bought the trims and baffles for all my cans through them as well.


BTW, people moan about Halo quality and rattles. I wrapped the arms of the cans with electrical tape as a precaution and have not heard a sound.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

The granite guys are here. They said it would take about 3 hours. The top piece is not attached yet. It's just resting on top. Both of these are single pieces, so I'll have only one seam on the bar and one seam on the base.



















Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Gawd that looks sick!


----------



## Ktulu_1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gawd that looks sick!



Yeah, that bar top rocks.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys.


The color will change slightly when they seal it. He showed me a test area that was sealed, looks great. He did a great job on the one seam for the base cabinets, I know where it is, but I doubt most people will see it.


After they do the concession area he said he'd reseal the upstairs kitchen stuff as well.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Is there any care and feeding with the granite counter tops? I don't have any experience with granite. Do they stain easy etc?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy,


You need to seal them once or twice a year depending on the granite. Its a simple process of spraying on the solution and wiping it down. It's stain resistant when sealed.


Check this FAQ out: http://www.customstonesurfaces.com/benefits.html 


Bud


----------



## mmoeller

Quartz countertops do not require the maintainence that granite and marble do. Might be an option. I believe they are a bit more expensive however.


----------



## Chiahead

Sorry Bud, gotta take a moment to wipe a tear here...


Thats really a beautiful set up. Congrats!!!


----------



## chinadog

Michael,


Thanks. I'll post more pictures shortly, they're just finishing up the bar portion and I don't want to get in the way. Sink is already installed as well. When they move over to my concession area, I'll take a few shots and post.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Geez Bud, why don't you just set up a webcam for all of us to see the play-by-play!


----------



## chinadog

Not a bad idea! One guy seems to be a perfectionist, they're doing a great job. Didn't realize how long took to do this work.


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Looks pretty good. Just out of curiosity, how do they attach the bar top? Do they just glue it down or do they use some kind of fasteners underneath?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks pretty good. Just out of curiosity, how do they attach the bar top? Do they just glue it down or do they use some kind of fasteners underneath?



They use silicon!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Took some pictures, uploaded them and then ran out the door. Just had a chance to post. Pretty excited how it came out. I just propped up the faucet, its not installed yet.


Here are the final granite shots.



























Concession area (they did not bring the backsplash, they'll have to come back):


















Bud


----------



## Thunder7

Man, your HT area just keeps getting better and better! Awesome!


----------



## whostolemynick

I can honestly say two things:


1. Your HT and basement all around are a masterpiece.

2. I want first dibs on that place if you move!


----------



## mflanagan

WOW! I never get sick of seeing Granite! I wish I could have afforded it when I did mine....but theres always room for the upgrade later on. Lookig great, keep the updates coming!


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Those counters look GREAT! The installers did a wonderful job. Did they mount the sink for you or did you need to do it yourself?


----------



## BritInVA

Very nice - just needs a few nicely placed cans of British/Irish Ale and you'll be set :


----------



## Thunder7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whostolemynick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can honestly say two things:
> 
> 
> 1. Your HT and basement all around are a masterpiece.
> 
> 2. I want first dibs on that place if you move!



Hey, wait a minute. You're way up in Detroit....I am actually in the metro Atlanta area....That should count for first dibs first.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Now to get the front done. Hopefully the backsplash for the concession area won't take long to get done.


I need to figure out what to do with the backsplash for the bar. I'm thinking maybe of using the panels for a tin ceiling for a backsplash, maybe a silver or grey. Dunno yet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Those counters look GREAT! The installers did a wonderful job. Did they mount the sink for you or did you need to do it yourself?



They put in the sink. I actually picked it out, they had a bunch to pick from. Was just easier.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whostolemynick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can honestly say two things:
> 
> 
> 1. Your HT and basement all around are a masterpiece.
> 
> 2. I want first dibs on that place if you move!



Thanks very much!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice - just needs a few nicely placed cans of British/Irish Ale and you'll be set :



Yes, I'm working on that already!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WOW! I never get sick of seeing Granite! I wish I could have afforded it when I did mine....but theres always room for the upgrade later on. Lookig great, keep the updates coming!



I figured with all the work I did and all the money I saved, that it was time to spend a little on those things that put it over the "edge". Pretty happy with the final results! It helps to have a neighbor whose a builder too.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thunder7* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, wait a minute. You're way up in Detroit....I am actually in the metro Atlanta area....That should count for first dibs first.



Well, that means you're expected to come to my HT meet ... whenever that is!


Bud


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


Why not use granite for the bar backsplash? Even with the outlets there they can cut the holes for them with their waterjet cutter they use. I did it on my bar and you won't regret it, believe me. That way the whole bar area is easy to wipe up after a party!


Bob


----------



## chinadog

Hey Bob,


Thought about that, looking for something a little more unique, just not sure what it is yet. More bar-ish and less kitchen-ish, although using cabinets/granite is awfully kitchen-ish already.


Bud


----------



## mmoeller

Phenominal!! I love the cabinetry. The second set of pic look a bit darker. Which set is more true to life??


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, people moan about Halo quality and rattles. I wrapped the arms of the cans with electrical tape as a precaution and have not heard a sound.



Good to know, thanks for the tip Bud.


Mike


----------



## accts4mjs

Just finished catching up. Wow! That's about all I can say, your bar turned out fantastic. Bet you're super happy with the results -- though I'm sure you're anxious to get the front on so it's finished too.


Good luck,

Mike


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmoeller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phenominal!! I love the cabinetry. The second set of pic look a bit darker. Which set is more true to life??



More like the second set. Those pictures were taken after they sealed the countertops.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just finished catching up. Wow! That's about all I can say, your bar turned out fantastic. Bet you're super happy with the results -- though I'm sure you're anxious to get the front on so it's finished too.



Mike, I think that the paneled front will make a HUGE impact now. I'm hoping that by the end of the weekend, that'll be done.


Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Thought about that, looking for something a little more unique, just not sure what it is yet. More bar-ish and less kitchen-ish, although using cabinets/granite is awfully kitchen-ish already.
> 
> 
> Bud



A few ideas:


1. Stainless steel

2. Tiles (same as floor)

3. Mini panels to match the front or just full pieces of alder


----------



## chinadog

Floor is laminate, even the tile, but there may be alternatives. Not sure I'd go with wood, stainless might be an option.


Bud


----------



## mrpergo

Bud you might want to look at some stamped copper.

It would blend in well with your wood and stone.

Place looks great. Congrats on a job well done.


----------



## chinadog

So here is where things stand. Built the new frame today, but put it aside to let the glue dry. Tomorrow I'll stain it and route the rabbet. The other frames and the panels are all stained and sealed. I just need to apply a few coats of lacquer. I also stained and sealed the crobels, so lacquer for them as well. Her are a few more dry fit shots.



































Color comparison with one panel:


















Stained corbel:










Overall I'm pretty happy with it. I used the stain recommended by WSF, although in the pictures it looks darker. I was afraid during the day at least that it was too light. I only used one coat. The test piece I used had two coats and it was way too dark.


Overall, I think it looks great. Almost there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud you might want to look at some stamped copper.
> 
> It would blend in well with your wood and stone.
> 
> Place looks great. Congrats on a job well done.



Interesting idea. Where would I find stamped copper? Thanks for the reply.


Bud


----------



## mrpergo

You should be able to find them at craft stores or some tile stores.

If you google copper tiles or stamped copper you'll find some gorgeous stuff.

A little pricey, but your looking for unique right ?


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Did you end up using the kreg jig on those panel frames? Didn't see your usual step-by-step pics. If yes, how did like using it and did you get a nice flush tight joint (looks like you did in your pics)?


Be picking up my lumber during the week - kreg jig in transit.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## VorlonFog

*Mark:* It's waaaayyyy back here. (Post 2517)


----------



## BritInVA

Keith - Thanks.


I recollect these pics now







, as I'm about the start my panelling this week I was going back over buds thread - obviously didn't go back far enough


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - nor sure if you have ever come accoss The Pub Shoppe .


got loads of cool bar accents.


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Had not seen that site. Thanks for the link.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - Did you end up using the kreg jig on those panel frames? Didn't see your usual step-by-step pics. If yes, how did like using it and did you get a nice flush tight joint (looks like you did in your pics)?
> 
> 
> Be picking up my lumber during the week - kreg jig in transit.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Mark, joints are pretty tight. As long as you cut all the boards the right height, works great. If you leave one a little short, the screws may not grab as well and if there is a gap, the glue won't take. Instead of cutting each board to a given height, I tried to make them all the exact measurement. I won't recommended that. It may throw things out of square. Worked for me, but had to put in some extra screws in one board. Also, depending on the wood, rough threads may work better than fine threaded screws (included with the jig). I ended up using them, but switched to some rough 3/4" drywall screws. Alder is a little soft. Overall, worked great.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I routed, stained and sealed the last panel today. I also lacquered everything with a spray satin lacquer (two coats). I think dry fit everything again, shimmed it in place and went ahead and gorilla glued the corbels in place. Tomorrow, I'll pull the frames off again and drive some screws through he back into the corbels, then put everything back up and screw it to the framing. At some point I'll trim is out with some quarter round to hide the screws.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are a few pictures from today with the corbels attached (glued only at this point). Tomorrow I'll take a ride to HD to get some screws to secure everything. The first picture gives you a pretty good idea of the color comparison with the cabinets. It seems the lacquer had some impact on the color.



























Bud


----------



## RensMond

Excellent work Bud.

Definitely something to be proud of.


----------



## swithey

Great Job on those panels Bud. They stained up so evenly. Did you have to condition the wood first or were you able to just apply the stain straight to the wood?


Looks like a pro job to me!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RensMond* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent work Bud.
> 
> Definitely something to be proud of.



Thanks and welcome to the group!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Steve. No conditioner this go around and I only used one coat of stain. I guess its the nature of the alder, it takes stain very well.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

There is absolutely no way this could have turned out any better! Outstanding!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark, joints are pretty tight. As long as you cut all the boards the right height, works great. If you leave one a little short, the screws may not grab as well and if there is a gap, the glue won't take. Instead of cutting each board to a given height, I tried to make them all the exact measurement. I won't recommended that. It may throw things out of square. Worked for me, but had to put in some extra screws in one board. Also, depending on the wood, rough threads may work better than fine threaded screws (included with the jig). I ended up using them, but switched to some rough 3/4" drywall screws. Alder is a little soft. Overall, worked great.
> 
> 
> Bud



Mark,


Also, Ben's brother Brian turned me on to a wood filler from Wood Finish Supply that I used to fill imperfections and seams where required. Good stuff. There is a different type for each type of wood to match. Brian had a maple filler, which we used. I picked up the Alder filler last week for the last frame. If you go this route, make sure you sand it off completely before staining. Works much better than the Elmers wood fill or the DAP stuff. I don't see it on their website though, so you'd have to find a local distributor.

http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/distributors.shtml 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is absolutely no way this could have turned out any better! Outstanding!!



Thanks Randy!


----------



## rlhjr34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So here is where things stand. Built the new frame today, but put it aside to let the glue dry. Tomorrow I'll stain it and route the rabbet. The other frames and the panels are all stained and sealed. I just need to apply a few coats of lacquer. I also stained and sealed the crobels, so lacquer for them as well. Her are a few more dry fit shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color comparison with one panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stained corbel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm pretty happy with it. I used the stain recommended by WSF, although in the pictures it looks darker. I was afraid during the day at least that it was too light. I only used one coat. The test piece I used had two coats and it was way too dark.
> 
> 
> Overall, I think it looks great. Almost there.
> 
> 
> Bud




Love the bar! Very nicely done! I am however curious about the wall color around your bar area. I'm thinking of a color along those lines for my media room (maybe slightly darker). What brand of paint is that? What's the name of that color?


Thanks!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlhjr34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Love the bar! Very nicely done! I am however curious about the wall color around your bar area. I'm thinking of a color along those lines for my media room (maybe slightly darker). What brand of paint is that? What's the name of that color?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Thanks. It's called Restrained Gold from Sherwin-Williams. Color number SW6129.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Today I went to HD and got 3" deck screws. I pulled down the frames and laid them on the floor, predrilled and drove two screws through the back of the frame into each corbel. The gorilla glue holds extremely well, although I had a little glue expansion come out the sides on a few corbels, nothing that I can't fix. I predrilled though the front of the frames for attaching it to the bar framing. I then positioned the frames and drove more 3" screws through the top of the frame and the bottom of the frame. It's pretty solid. The only thing I have to do is get some quarter round stained and install and the top and bottom of the frames to hide the screws.



























Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Looking real good - your work continues to impress!


From pics looks like you got a good color match, there apears to be a deaper sheen on the cupboards - looks like you gotta get the wax out










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Thanks. I used a Satin lacquer, probably should have gone with something a little more. I may try the wax or may brush on another coat of lacquer at some point (not real soon, mind you, got some beers to enjoy). The color isn't perfect, but its close enough, the flash makes it more emphasized. Once you put the bar stools in, nobody will even notice. After sitting on the bar stool for some time, they REALLY won't notice!
 









Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - and you sure need some quality time at that bar. Say Hi to the barmaid for me










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Yes, I agree. I bought one of those St. Pauli girl outfits for my wife...










Bud


----------



## VorlonFog

It's looking great, Bud! I really like the way your mini-fridge looks in there.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hey Bud,


Regarding your hardwood floors... How do you think they will hold up to bar stools? i.e. pushing, pulling and stationery pressure etc. As I recall from your thread, you used laminated snap type flooring. The top layer of laminate is pretty thin (1/16 - 1/8 ??).


My wife wants me to install HW flooring around the bar area and we were at Sam's and Costco this past weekend and they had some flooring that we liked. I have a concern about my stools leaving indentations in the wood. The carpet I have down now is already showing wear and it's a short tight knap.



Any recommendations?


----------



## tshepherd

I have bar stools on a brazilian cherry hardwood floor in my kitchen / family room area. No dents, but I also got several packs of the stick on felt pucks to put on the bottom of each leg. Cheap insurance and all that.


Tom


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


I have barstools upstairs in the kitchen on oak floors, no problems there. I used the same felt pucks that Tom mentions. I don't think it's a problem with the laminate either, it's pretty durable. I think you're thinking of engineered hardwood that has basically a veneer of wood on top of it. You can sand that type of floor down once and that's about it. I've pushed the couch around down there and it has wooden legs on it, not a problem at all.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0



Wow -- nice job Bud. I sent my wife a link to this post so she could see a pic of this bar. Simply outstanding!


BTW -- When is the dishwasher going in? I see it parked over there on the left.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow -- nice job Bud. I sent my wife a link to this post so she could see a pic of this bar. Simply outstanding!
> 
> 
> BTW -- When is the dishwasher going in? I see it parked over there on the left.



Hey Steve, thanks. The DW opening is to the right of the sink. The sink is in the angled section. I still need to drill out the holes for the supply and drain for the dishwasher through the cabinet fillers to get to the supplies/p-trap. No immediate rush, need to go buy the trap and the plumbing parts to finish that out. I'm also tempted to call the plumber and have him do it!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's looking great, Bud! I really like the way your mini-fridge looks in there.



Hey Keith, thanks. On the fridge, simple and effective. I would guess I could get at least 4 cases of beer in there, plus it being where it is makes for the quickest access!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So here is an update on the ticket window. Finally got some gold metallic paint from HD last weekend and sprayed the letters. The letters are actually made from pine, wasn't sure if I was going to stain them or not. Happy with the gold paint. I just glued the letters on this AM and took a few shots. Jason will be by on Friday with the plexiglass for the front and I have all the stuff I need for the red velvet curtain, maybe my wife can find some time this weekend to put that together.



















Bud


----------



## VorlonFog

That's going to look fabulous with the window and the drapes.


----------



## BuffBakerGA

You didn't have to make that for me Bud...










Basement looks great...


Jeff


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have all the stuff I need for the red velvet curtain, maybe my wife can find some time this weekend to put that together.
> 
> Bud



So Bud can't sew










Looking great! As always.\\


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BuffBakerGA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You didn't have to make that for me Bud...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basement looks great...
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff, this is the prototype. When I get that Paypal payment, I'll start production...










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Bud can't sew



Mark, probably wouldn't admit it if I could, besides, I think my wife is excited about doing it actually.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's going to look fabulous with the window and the drapes.



Keith, thanks. Hopefully I'll be able to post completed pictures by the end of the weekend...


Bud


----------



## SmX

Hey Bud,


The ticket window looks great!


Did you ever get around to posting pictures of your completed theater?

I tried to go back and see but the last 15 pages of this thread is about a bar counter.


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


I'll have to take some "finished" shots and post them.... just for you, my friend.










Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Is this the wood filler you were refering to?

http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/M...e=Finish+Putty 


Do you match to the wood (i.e. I'm using Red Oak) or the the final color?


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - Is this the wood filler you were refering to?
> 
> http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/M...e=Finish+Putty
> 
> 
> Do you match to the wood (i.e. I'm using Red Oak) or the the final color?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



This is it. You match the filler with the wood. This is prestain, presand stuff. The other stuff you found is for filling in nail holes to match the stain.











And I found it at this link: http://www.woodnshop.com/Famowood.htm although my can is about 4 times that, but I didn't use all that much.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jason came by Friday night with the plexiglass, came out great. Dimensions were perfect, exactly how I planned it. Here's a shot with just the plexiglass. I used some white glue to secure the louvered cover.











BTW, here is the plexi design and measurements:
http://images18.fotki.com/v339/photo...5/plexi-vi.jpg 

*EDIT: Sometimes this picture doesn't show for some reason. This is a Fotki thing, I'll double check it tomorrow and repost if necessary.*


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - Thanks for the link - ordered a couple of tins to be safe.


The Ticket window looks superb! Great job as usual.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## VorlonFog

Bud, do I remember







sometime back you were considering putting curtains behind your ticket window? (Or am I just as crazy as everyone else seems to believe I am?







)


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, do I remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sometime back you were considering putting curtains behind your ticket window? (Or am I just as crazy as everyone else seems to believe I am?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I think curtains behind the glass will look real good.


Ruben


----------



## BritInVA

Buds wife is making the curtains - I'm assuming as she is cooking/cleaning/looking after kids etc. while Bud is down in the basement its not top of her priorities.










I'm sure will look great when its finished.


----------



## chinadog

Mark is correct. She's got the gold frilly trim sewn on the red velvet, just need to get either a rod to hang it or need to make it. We're close, should be this week. I expect I'll need to make a trip to HD this week. I put the window back on the wall to get it off the table and had the camera out, so I figured I'd take a shot pre-velvet.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looks great Bud!


Jason


----------



## rsberg34

Ticket window looks great bud as does the bar...you did an outstanding job, cant wait to see the finnished theater pics!


Robert


----------



## pathdoc

Continues to look great. Love the ticket window. I'm working on making my component cab look something like a ticket window.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. My wife said she's almost done with the curtain (thought she was done yesterday), so it'll be a few more days likely, worst case be the end of the weekend. Sometimes its hard to work my project management magic on the better half...










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great Bud!
> 
> 
> Jason



Thanks to you guys....


Bud


----------



## GranTheaterO

Hi Bud,


Just caught up on your September work, my jaw dropped. Very impressive! My wife and I took a look at the photos and we love your bar area, the deep stain color, all those cabinets, the counter and the awesome wood work. The ticket booth turned out great too. I know how much work it is and I only did half the stuff you did. Someone mentioned that your thread is like "This Old House", I agree.


Dave


----------



## audiman

Chinadog :


i've notice that you have old "la belle province" license plate on your wall.


Why did you choose these particular ones ?


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sometimes its hard to work my project management magic on the better half...



It's always a project managers nightmare when the critical path is held up by the top brass







I'm sure we can all wait a few more days for the finished pics.


----------



## nuczn

very nice really has come together nicely bravo!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Chinadog :
> 
> 
> i've notice that you have old "la belle province" license plate on your wall.
> 
> 
> Why did you choose these particular ones ?



Actually, no particular reason. I love Montreal and Quebec. I've had the plates for some time, I picked up the top three plates at a flea market in Montreal while my wife and I were on our honeymoon 15 years ago. The Saskatchewan plate was an ebay purchase from a few years ago as well. I just thought they were neat. I have maybe 10 more plates in my workshop, but they're all plates we had on our cars over the years.


EDIT: Oh wait, I added the Saskatchewan later and its not int he pictures... I'll take another shot later.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GranTheaterO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> Just caught up on your September work, my jaw dropped. Very impressive! My wife and I took a look at the photos and we love your bar area, the deep stain color, all those cabinets, the counter and the awesome wood work. The ticket booth turned out great too. I know how much work it is and I only did half the stuff you did. Someone mentioned that your thread is like "This Old House", I agree.
> 
> 
> Dave



Hey Dave, thanks. I'm real happy how it turned out. It's one of those things that was worth putting the extra effort into. The guys here really helped with advice on building it and of course Ben's brother Brian was a huge factor for the panels. Although I'm anxious to complete everything, sometimes I need to let things lie and think things through. Glad I didn't rush.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nuczn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> very nice really has come together nicely bravo!!



Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's always a project managers nightmare when the critical path is held up by the top brass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure we can all wait a few more days for the finished pics.



Agreed, and in this particular case, I just keep my lip buttoned and wait until it happens....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pathdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Continues to look great. Love the ticket window. I'm working on making my component cab look something like a ticket window.



That's always cool. Thought about a full booth look, but never got that far. I could still do it at some point if I get adventurous, but probably won't.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So a minor update. Picked up my spring rod for the window at Walmart and my wife finished sewing the curtain. Going to do one curtain versus two, its not going to open anyway. I could have her fudge a seam so it looks like two curtains, but I think it'll be fine. I should have it up tomorrow and will post some pictures.


Bud


----------



## garykagan

Really nice job on the ticket window Bud, my wife thought it was "cute" and she likes bald guys.....


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Gary. Hair is definately over rated .... for men at least... not that I have a lot of choice in the matter.










Bud


----------



## Mark P

Did you finish the theater and post pictures?


----------



## chinadog

Mark, basically done, but have not posted a series of pictures, just pictures along the way. Ruben was asking as well. I should be able to get to it this weekend.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I'm getting around to other things, like the front of my projector box. I worked on that this morning while the kids were at a bday party. What I did was build a small frame to cover the front of the box, then taped some copier paper on the front of it to get an idea of where the hole needs to be, then cranked up the projector. I drew some rough marks to get an idea of location.



















I then cut out the rectangle and used that as a template for a piece of Masonite, squared up the rectangle, found the center and started making holes to get an idea of size required. I tried a 4" hole and it was a little small, so I went 5 inch.


















I went ahead and attached the Masonite to the frame and painted it black. When its dry, I'll wrap it in black GOM like the rest of the box.


















Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

Bud,


Does your fan on the projector blow forward or to the back? Mine blows forward and I'll have a 6" HVAC tube in the back of the box to pull the heat off but wondered what would happen if I put a cover on the box to "hush" it (not that it's really loud or anything, just cause mostly.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike, it's an inline fan on a 4" duct. The fan itself is in my workshop. I have a vent on the back of the box itself for airflow. The air gets pulled from the front. The box itself is not very air tight, its more just to hide the projector than for noise.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud, I could be wrong, but I think he meant the fan in the projector itself - which end does it exhaust from...?


----------



## chinadog

Eric,


You're right, I was half awake when I read it.


Mike, the AE900 blows out from the front left while its ceiling mounted, front right table mounted. The vent for the inline fan is right in front of the projector mount.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

So does your vent actually go into the ceiling then? How do you get the air from the front of the projector into the hose? (I'm not quite picturing it.)


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


The inline fan pulls the air from the box through the flex duct and out the other end. The vent is in the box in the soffit and the duct runs from the box out of the theater room and to the fan in my workshop. I have a thermostat in the box itself and it kicks the inline fan on when it reaches a specific temperature.


Think about a bathroom fan that is temperature controlled, but instead of it being in the ceiling, it's at the other end of the duct. They look like this:

http://www.alerg.com/page/A/PROD/air...E00CCPNCNL97GO 


or this:

http://www.rewci.com/panwhisvenfa.html 


Bud


----------



## richh

Bud,


I have a question regarding those inline fans. I want to install a vent above my projector (not in a hush box though). I was thinking i can put in a whisper fan in the ceiling a foot or so behind the projector and then vent it to another part of the basement. The other option would be to install an inline fan in an adjacent room to the HT and then run the 4" duct to a register in the ceiling behind the projector. The ceiling mount fan is .3 sones, 80 cfm. The smallest Panasonic inline fan is 120 cfm, but at 1 sone. So I guess I'm trying to figure out which would be quieter, a .3 sone fan right above the seat, or a remotely mounted 1 scone fan. The run of duct from the inline fan to the projector would be about 18 feet. I called Panasonic but wasn't able to get any answers there. Would appreciate any insight you have on this.


Thanks


----------



## chinadog

Rich,


I'd go with the inline fan, personally. From your figures, the inline fan moves more air and by putting it in another room, you pretty much remove all the noise. You'd want it somewhere where you can actually get to it or replace it. Don't bury it in some drywall. My equipment closet fan is pretty quite, one thing I will note is that when I'm in the concession area after a movie, I can hear the flapper. I probably should have never installed it since I'm not venting outside (again to my workshop). You can't hear it in the HT room and if I did, I could shut the door, but something to consider IF you decide to go ceiling mount. Also, aesthetically, the ceiling fan may look a little odd up there versus just a register....


Hope that helps.


Bud


----------



## richh

Thanks for the advice Bud. My plumbing inspector nixed my plans for a basement bathroom (after I bought the vent fan for it) so I have the 80 cfm whisper in ceiling fan on hand. That's why I was contemplating using it. Anyway, I think I'll take your advice and go the inline route.


Thanks again,

Rich


----------



## chinadog

Couple of quick updates. The front of the projector box is GOMed, just not installed yet. I drilled the holes for magnets and although it should work, I may up going the velcro route. I just need to get some. I don't like putting those velcro things on GOM because when you pull the panel off, it'll pull the GOM as well. I should have thought trough attaching the panel some more. Not enough room for hinges or anything link that, the way I designed the box. Next time I'll fine tune the design prior to building it.


The curtain is temporarily hanging in the ticket window. Then needs to be trimmed rehung. Looks pretty good.


Lastly, I'm sitting here waiting for the plumber. Figured he be here by now. He's going to install the bar sink faucet, P-trap, and that funky vent (whatever its called). He'll also need to run the stuff for dishwasher so I can install that.


Getting there.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

I assume the vent you are talking about is because you don't have an actual vent in the walls? I don't know what it's called either, but is used when people have a island with a sink. I have heard that in some areas you can also just simply loop the drain pipes up toward the countertop and then come back down, which allows the air to move around and lets the drain work properly (I don't think it's legal in CA.)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume the vent you are talking about is because you don't have an actual vent in the walls? I don't know what it's called either, but is used when people have a island with a sink. I have heard that in some areas you can also just simply loop the drain pipes up toward the countertop and then come back down, which allows the air to move around and lets the drain work properly (I don't think it's legal in CA.)



Scott, that's exactly it. We have a similar setup upstairs in our kitchen where the sinks is in the middle of the room, it's got one of the those vents as well. I'll take pictures once he installs it for the bar. There is too much stuff under the kitchen sink to get to it and take pictures. I didn't realize you could loop like you mentioned.


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog

I believe they call it a Studer vent. We've got one under our downstairs sink.


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Scott, that's exactly it. We have a similar setup upstairs in our kitchen where the sinks is in the middle of the room, it's got one of the those vents as well. I'll take pictures once he installs it for the bar. There is too much stuff under the kitchen sink to get to it and take pictures. I didn't realize you could loop like you mentioned.
> 
> 
> Bud



I wouldn't have known it was possible to make a loop either, but I saw it done in "The Family Handiman" magazine. Like I said though, it may not be legal everywhere to do it that way. The actual vent device that is used is basically a check valve to allow the air in and nothing out.


----------



## jikkjack

Hey Bud,


While you are sitting there waiting for the plumber...I am sitting here waiting for the carpet guys to show up.


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VorlonFog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe they call it a Studer vent. We've got one under our downstairs sink.



Yep, it is a studor vent ( http://www.studor.com ). They can be found at the big box stores for about $20. If you have an island with plumbing, this is a fairly typical way (at least in CO) to vent it.


-Ryan


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Couple of quick updates. The front of the projector box is GOMed, just not installed yet. I drilled the holes for magnets and although it should work, I may up going the velcro route. I just need to get some. I don't like putting those velcro things on GOM because when you pull the panel off, it'll pull the GOM as well. I should have thought trough attaching the panel some more. Not enough room for hinges or anything link that, the way I designed the box. Next time I'll fine tune the design prior to building it.



Bud,


Are you using rare earth magnets? Those will hold no problem. That's how I'm going to mount my velvet frame to the backing around the screen so I can pull it off if needed.


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Keith and Ryan are correct. Its a Studor vent. I was quizzing the guys this AM about it. I'll take a picture when I get home. The work is done, missing a screw to put the front panel back on the dishwasher, so I need to go to HD to get a matching one. Also, since the counter is granite, they couldn't secure the dishwasher to it, so need another solution for that. I need to check to see what we have upstairs.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Are you using rare earth magnets? Those will hold no problem. That's how I'm going to mount my velvet frame to the backing around the screen so I can pull it off if needed.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,


The ones from PartsExpress for speaker grills.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=329-045 


if they don't work, I can use the heavy duty speaker guides, I suppose:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-367 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's the plumbing under the bar with the studor vent:










And the dishwasher/faucet installed:










Bud


----------



## Mark P

Bud I saw your pictures in the "Stages" thread, can you please set your camera on a tripod ( or anything) as far back in a corner as you can, turn on all your effects lighting and snap a picture? If you have done this what page is it on?


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Here's an album I just created with some new shots and some old.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...theater_shots/ 


Bud


----------



## VorlonFog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's the plumbing under the bar with the studor vent:



I'm really surprised they installed a separate P-trap for your dishwasher like that. Most people would just dump it into the pipe directly beneath the sink drain. You must have a really good plumber, or you've got some tough plumbing inspectors.


----------



## chinadog

Keith,


The one upstairs was done the same way by different plumbers, so I vote the inspectors. When I looked under the kitchen sink and saw a similar set, I decided to let the pros handle it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Still playing with the curtain a little, but here's what the ticket window looks like at the moment:











Slightly larger image:
http://images19.fotki.com/v315/photo...00_1740-vi.jpg 


Bud


----------



## documentarymaker

Bud - that looks awesome! I immeadiately thought about taking a picture of the inside of a real ticket booth at the movies and blowing that up big to poster size then mounting that behind the curtains. You could part the curtains a bit to reveal the "inside" of the ticket booth and give it a little more "realism"...


Wolf/Ritz here in town can blow up a picture that size for around $20 or so and most can do it while you wait....



Just a thought -


Kevin


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still playing with the curtains a little, but he's what the ticket window looks like at the moment:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly larger image:
> http://images19.fotki.com/v315/photo...00_1740-vi.jpg
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, that turned out awesome, as has everything else you've done with your theater. The only downside is that I cannot let my wife see that, or I'll be duplicating your effort.










Great work, as usual.


Joseph


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *documentarymaker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - that looks awesome! I immeadiately thought about taking a picture of the inside of a real ticket booth at the movies and blowing that up big to poster size then mounting that behind the curtains. You could part the curtains a bit to reveal the "inside" of the ticket booth and give it a little more "realism"...
> 
> 
> Wolf/Ritz here in town can blow up a picture that size for around $20 or so and most can do it while you wait....
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought -
> 
> 
> Kevin



Kevin,


Thanks!


If I could find an old movie theater, that would be something to consider. The ones I've been to lately have the ticket booth up front separate from everything else, so there is nto much of a background. May a shot of the ticket lobby with the concession area, all the lights, etc.


As of now I have only one curtain, but could be easily converted obviously.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JosephShaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, that turned out awesome, as has everything else you've done with your theater. The only downside is that I cannot let my wife see that, or I'll be duplicating your effort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work, as usual.
> 
> 
> Joseph



Joseph,


Thanks! It adds just some extra to the experience and wasn't hard to make. I need to start my light boxes soon.


Bud


----------



## themonk

The last picture in your album is my favorite by far! Michigan over Wisconsin!

You from MI Bud?


Monk


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> 
> Thanks! It adds just some extra to the experience and wasn't hard to make. I need to start my light boxes soon.
> 
> 
> Bud



I agree. Unfoturnately, my wife saw it, and now it's added to my list of Honey Do's.










Joseph


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *themonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The last picture in your album is my favorite by far! Michigan over Wisconsin!
> 
> You from MI Bud?
> 
> 
> Monk



No, from CT actually, just happened to flip to that channel when I was taking pictures!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JosephShaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. Unfoturnately, my wife saw it, and now it's added to my list of Honey Do's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joseph



That was quick! Let me know if you have any questions!


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


Congrats on just an outstanding project. Looks awesome. Of course, I have a few quesitons:


1) Your original HT plans showed a 7.1 system. If that's what happened, where did you put the rear surrounds? In the ceiling, column, etc.


2) What's the depth dimension for the granite bar top?


3) What's the depth dimension for the lower level where the sink is?


Err - Just found your bar plans on fotki. Looks like the granite depth is 24"


Thanks a lot of the help.


Ed


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Congrats on just an outstanding project. Looks awesome. Of course, I have a few quesitons:
> 
> 
> 1) Your original HT plans showed a 7.1 system. If that's what happened, where did you put the rear surrounds? In the ceiling, column, etc.
> 
> 
> 2) What's the depth dimension for the granite bar top?
> 
> 
> 3) What's the depth dimension for the lower level where the sink is?
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot of the help.
> 
> 
> Ed



Hey Ed, thanks. Buried somewhere in the thread is information on the Sonance in-ceilings speakers I used. I actually put them in the soffit for both the sides and the rear. Since I'm limited on space I decided on no columns and didn't want speakers on the walls hanging around. Just a personal preference. I would have actually loved to put columns in, but am happy with the result.


The bar top is 17 inches. The depth for the base cabinets is about 26 I believe, with the overhang. I'll double check next time I'm down there.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Ed, thanks. Buried somewhere in the thread is information on the Sonance in-ceilings speakers I used. I actually put them in the soffit for both the sides and the rear. Since I'm limited on space I decided on no columns and didn't want speakers on the walls hanging around. Just a personal preference. I would have actually loved to put columns in, but am happy with the result.
> 
> 
> The bar top is 17 inches. The depth for the base cabinets is about 26 I believe, with the overhang. I'll double check next time I'm down there.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud thanks for the info.


WRT the speakers, I think I have room for columns on the side, but on in the back. Do you think I could do in wall rears, but in column sides? Should work right?


I'll be posting my design very soon for comments. Just working through it still.


Thanks again.


Ed


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Probably somewhat of a compromise depending on your speaker selection, but doable. You're looking at a front set that's different from the sides, that are different from the rears. You'll want to timbre match them as best as possible. Others will chime in here I'm sure. You should start a thread and post your design, there are a lot of people A) with the same sort of questions, B) a lot of people with different opinions and C) some pretty good advice from talented and brilliant people here.


Bud


----------



## wbart4

Bud,

What size is your entry door? I would like to go with a 2'8" door to make my columns space out equal. I have framed for a 36" door and have my drywall extended for a 32" door at this time. My main concern is getting seats in when its finished.


Thanks,

wbart4


----------



## JosephShaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That was quick! Let me know if you have any questions!
> 
> 
> Bud



Yeah, she caught me checking out the thread. Thanks for the offer. I'm sure I'll definitely have questions when I get to that point.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbart4* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> What size is your entry door? I would like to go with a 2'8" door to make my columns space out equal. I have framed for a 36" door and have my drywall extended for a 32" door at this time. My main concern is getting seats in when its finished.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> wbart4



It's a 2'8" door. The seats (at least Berkline) come in two pieces, the backs come off so they were no problem getting them in. Making some progress, huh?


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> WRT the speakers, I think I have room for columns on the side, but on in the back. Do you think I could do in wall rears, but in column sides? Should work right?
> 
> 
> I'll be posting my design very soon for comments. Just working through it still.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Ed



Bud, thanks for the info. I will definately being posting my design here soon. Still some minor tweaks before I let the big dogs eat


----------



## SteveMo

I was busy and I missed your update on the ticket window. It's stunning. When your done with the curtain, please update us asap.


p.s. Images load much smoother now. Thanks again.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Steve, will do. It's been back burnered for now though. Glad the pics are working better for you.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Waiting on confirmation from Ben, but he and Jason have been invited over on Sunday, Oct 22nd to check out the theater and basement. Going to do burgers and beers. Anyone in metro Atlanta is welcome to come by. I expect we'll be doing a little demoing, watching some NFL and/or a MLB playoff game. Figure 2:00 PM. PM me in you plan on attending and I'll send you directions.


Bud


----------



## kezug

Bud,


I have been watching your thread for awhile....sounds like you are complete if you are doing demo's now....can you post some pics of your finished work?


Great job.


----------



## chinadog

Kezug,


Never really done. That's how it works with this hobby. Light boxes are next on the list (yes, I have said that before, but that's my intent). Anything in particular you're looking for? I did post a link to this HT album about a week ago.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...theater_shots/ 


Bud


----------



## mike mcdaniel

WOW....The whole thing turned out nice. It has been a while since i stopped by!. I am in the process of moving from Cartersville to Black Acre trail. Hope to come by one day! Congrads! Mike


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Mike. Anytime you want to come by, just let me know.


Bud


----------



## gondey99

I have been lurking on your thread and WOW....I hope I have the skill set to produce a Beautiful HT room such as yours. Congratulations and have many hours years of enjoyment as my buildout will not be about 6 years from now


----------



## chinadog

gondey99,


Thank you. I think in about 6 years I'll probably have that last 5% remaining done, so we're even!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just got off the phone with Harmony tech support. My remote was dead last night. I received a message the other day stating that it was low on battery even though the remote sits in the cradle for 22 hours a day. After talking to them, the guys said there was an issue with some cradles and that the remote doesn't get charged. I got an incident number and need to call back in about 10 minutes when they open and speak to level 2. I've lost some commands over time, not sure if it was related or not. I don't think I've ever scene the battery indicator on the remote show 'full' either. I'll post after I speak to level 2.


May be some incentive to consider other options, although I've gotten used to this remote, I like it and for the most part works as expected. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Waiting on confirmation from Ben, but he and Jason have been invited over on Sunday, Oct 22nd to check out the theater and basement. Going to do burgers and beers. Anyone in metro Atlanta is welcome to come by. I expect we'll be doing a little demoing, watching some NFL and/or a MLB playoff game. Figure 2:00 PM. PM me in you plan on attending and I'll send you directions.
> 
> 
> Bud



Guys, going to have to postpone this. I'll reschedule soon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Based on the information and PID on the back of the remote/charger, I have a bad charger. So they'll ship a new one and we'll see what happens.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

Hopefully you won't have any problems. I've been thoroughly happy with my Harmony and the first one I had the backlight went out and customer service sent me a new one right away. No problems since.


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Yeah, I've got my fingers crossed. It was still worth the price at the time, even if I use it elsewhere. Hopefully thats not the case.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud - what is the ETA of the light boxes? Maybe we should head down to Chris's shop and build some prototype's and start selling them on this forum?


----------



## chinadog

I was hoping to start soon, I wanted to have at least the posters in hand in order to firm up my design. Frankly, I'm waiting on a decision from the wife before I ordered them, good incentive for me to follow up and get a decision made. I'd like to take a stab at starting in the next week or two.


Bud


----------



## John Martin

Hey Bud,


Just curious since I was reading your post from the beginning, but how much difference did you notice on the temperature in your basement once you got the insulation up? Mine is virtually the same as yours with an open back wall but with 3 walls against the soil and I don't have any insulation up yet nor any ductwork run yet so I was wondering.


John


----------



## chinadog

Hey John,


Hard to say actually. The only insulation I added was on interior walls that separate room from the other rooms. I also did the soffits/ceilng obviously too. The outer walls, including the concrete walls were insulated by the builder. The basement during the winter never really got below 60 with no heat on. The room does get warmer during use obviously and having one or two returns helps with that. I have one now and to me it does get a little warm, even with the inline fans and the venting of the equipment closet. I'm OK with it for now and if need be, I have a return in the adjacent storage room that I have access to if I want to extend it into the HT room if need be. At this point, I'm OK though.


Bud


----------



## John Martin

I am planning on 1 return in the room and 1 supply. The AV closet is outside the room so that will not be a factor other than the PJ. Any, well done so far and keep up the good work. I am spending some time today planning out the screen wall so I can work in the basement this weekend.


John


----------



## John Martin

I am planning on 1 return in the room and 1 supply. The AV closet is outside the room so that will not be a factor other than the PJ. Anyway, well done so far and keep up the good work. I am spending some time today planning out the screen wall so I can work in the basement this weekend.


John


----------



## chinadog

John,


Mine is in the other room as well, although I tend to leave the door open between the concession area and the HT room. The projector will give off some considerable heat as well though. It helps to turn the HVAC fan on during use, it keeps the air circulating versus waiting for it to heat up and letting the AC kick in. Know what projector you're going with?


Bud


----------



## John Martin

Yep. Got myself a nice new PLV-Z4 that I could not be happier with. I picked it up about 3 months ago for less than $1600 and got myself a spare bulb and Draper Luma 96" pull down screen included in the price. Not too shabby a deal if you ask me. I have used it a lot already (and it has not interfered with contstruction yet LOL) for showing outdoor movies. I threw together a 10' x 14' PVC/painters tarp screen and have had a couple movies a month for the last 3 months. I have been running the lamp in creative cinema mode and it never gets very hot in that low a lamp setting. The image is a bit dark but on a beige painters tarp you can't expect miracles.


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


How are folks like you ataching your soffits, screws or nails, to the floor joists above?


John


----------



## chinadog

John, I used nails. I have a framing nailer, so it was a no brainer. I made sections, lifted them up and shot nails in the joist above. Where there was no joint (parallel), I installed cross pieces. On the horizontal pieces, I shot them into the studs on the walls and then attached together using nails as well. There are a lot of different ways to do it. I could have used screws, but it would have taken more time and the nails hold fine. I could hang from them, no problem at all there.


Here's a shot of a corner than I had, I think this was in the bar area. Gives you an idea of how I attached it in different directions.

http://images14.fotki.com/v192/photo...CP_1901-vi.jpg 


Sounds like a great deal on the Z4 and screen combo!


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John, I used nails. I have a framing nailer, so it was a no brainer. I made sections, lifted them up and shot nails in the joist above. Where there was no joint (parallel), I installed cross pieces. On the horizontal pieces, I shot them into the studs on the walls and then attached together using nails as well. There are a lot of different ways to do it. I could have used screws, but it would have taken more time and the nails hold fine. I could hang from them, no problem at all there.
> 
> 
> Here's a shot of a corner than I had, I think this was in the bar area. Gives you an idea of how I attached it in different directions.
> 
> http://images14.fotki.com/v192/photo...CP_1901-vi.jpg
> 
> 
> Sounds like a great deal on the Z4 and screen combo!
> 
> 
> Bud



Hey Bud, so are you ever going to post the pictures of the completed theater? It's been 3 or 4 months now and we are still talking about the bar area.


I don't mean to sound too pushy, its just that I have been following your thread with great anticipation since I started mine and I feel like I am getting blue balls here.


Did you post them already and I missed them?


Ruben


----------



## John Martin

LOL I thought you only got thse after a big letdown. IF the theater is causing that then we need to get you checked out LOL


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kezug,
> 
> 
> Never really done. That's how it works with this hobby. Light boxes are next on the list (yes, I have said that before, but that's my intent). Anything in particular you're looking for? I did post a link to this HT album about a week ago.
> 
> http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...theater_shots/
> 
> 
> Bud



Ruben,


Ah, yeah, think you missed them... twice. Here's the second post, just a few posts above yours!


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


I see you have an XBOX360 attached to your HT. Isn't your equipment in another room? If so, any problems with the wireless controllers?


Ed


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I see you have an XBOX360 attached to your HT. Isn't your equipment in another room? If so, any problems with the wireless controllers?
> 
> 
> Ed



Ed,


Correct, the equipment is in the next room, but the 360 wireless controllers are 802.11b, so they have pretty good range, probably 30+ feet. I haven't had any issue with them at all, they work great.


Bud


----------



## SmX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ruben,
> 
> 
> Ah, yeah, think you missed them... twice. Here's the second post, just a few posts above yours!
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud, I am glad I can finally get some rest at night now










Awesome turnout! Are you using any surround speakers in there or are they hidden behind the panels?


Ruben


----------



## chinadog

Ruben,


Thanks. Still tweaking. Would like to add a star ceiling at some point, htpc and a few other things, but that'll be next years project.


I used in-ceiling surrounds in the soffits. Due to limitations if the width of the room, it wasn't advantageous to use columns. Would have liked to, but it just won't have worked with 12 feet of width. Because of where the door was and where the windows were, it made it difficult to even do in-walls for surrounds, so I went went in ceilings. Specifically, I used Sonance Symphony S622TRs since they were recommended by Ascend for matching purposes. Ascend don't do in-ceilings or in-walls.


They lay out like this:
http://images11.fotki.com/v210/photo...rrounds-vi.jpg 


I was going to build panels for access, but decided to just GOM over them. I figured if I needed to get to them, I'll just build the panels later. So far so good.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ruben,
> 
> 
> Thanks. Still tweaking. Would like to add a star ceiling at some point, htpc and a few other things, but that'll be next years project.
> 
> 
> I used in-ceiling surrounds in the soffits. Due to limitations if the width of the room, it wasn't advantageous to use columns. Would have liked to, but it just won't have worked with 12 feet of width. Because of where the door was and where the windows were, it made it difficult to even do in-walls for surrounds, so I went went in ceilings. Specifically, I used Sonance Symphony S622TRs since they were recommended by Ascend for matching purposes. Ascend don't do in-ceilings or in-walls.
> 
> 
> They lay out like this:
> http://images11.fotki.com/v210/photo...rrounds-vi.jpg
> 
> 
> I was going to build panels for access, but decided to just GOM over them. I figured if I needed to get to them, I'll just build the panels later. So far so good.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I'm in a similar situation with my surrounds. I'm worried about doing in-wall/ceiling. I know you didn't have much of a choice (and neither do I), but how do you like the result?


Also, where'd you buy the Sonances?


Ed


----------



## chinadog

Ed, overall, I'm very happy with the sound. I think it turned out pretty well. Not ideal, but you have to play the cards you were dealt. I bought the S622TRs from ABTElectronic, but at the time, only a few places online carried them. If you google the model, you'll find more online stores have them and they're pretty cheap now.


Bud


----------



## rmcveigh

Bud, I bet this is in your thread somewhere, but I've searched several times with no luck. Can you tell me the dimensions of your bar? I'd be interested to know how long it is from the back corner out to the outer edge of the bar top and again from the wall with the cabinet uppers to the outer edge of the bar top. How many square feet of granite did this end up being? Your bar (along with everything else you've done) has really been impressive to watch and has turned out beautifully.


I've been slowly but surely planning my basement finish and home theater and my wife and I have been torn about how wide to make our theater to accommodate our bar space. In short, your design may fit our space well and allow us to move things around a bit to get the theater from 13' to 16' wide. We're space constrained to a 19' length though, but the extra width seems worth the effort. Anyway, just a little explanation for the questions. Thanks!


-Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Ryan,


Thanks. I like it as well. Here's the design I did with Hom e Depot to figure out all the cabinets/dimensions for the knee wall for the bar. It's buried a few times in the thread and in another thread for bars as well. Hope it helps you. The granite is about 17 inches wide, with about 9 inches of overhang, so you can add that to the dimensions from the corner. I didn't get an exact footage, since it was both the bar and the concession area done at the same time. He just gave me a price for both and I went with it.

http://images12.fotki.com/v252/photo...72/bar1-vi.jpg 


Let me know if I can answer any more questions.


Bud


----------



## rmcveigh

Bud,


Wow, thanks for the quick response! That's exactly what I was looking for. No worries about the square footage, I was just curious and can do the math for my space as I get there. This will be very helpful to get a good feel for the space I have. Hopefully I'll be ready to post plans soon - I'll wait until I've worked through the city here to get everything online. Thanks again,


-Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Ryan,


No problem. I happened to check the forum right after you posted and knew where the diagram was. Good luck with it.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ed, overall, I'm very happy with the sound. I think it turned out pretty well. Not ideal, but you have to play the cards you were dealt. I bought the S622TRs from ABTElectronic, but at the time, only a few places online carried them. If you google the model, you'll find more online stores have them and they're pretty cheap now.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I'm seeing Sonance all over on the web. Thanks for the leads.


Did you use acoustic enclosures for your surrounds? Or did you just install them in the soffit? Over in the speakers forum they're recommending enclosures for any in-wall/ceiling speakers.


Thanks,


Ed


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


No problem. Looked into the enclosures and priced it, but decided not to based on my install. I just didn't have the room in the soffits with HVAC, wiring, conduit and plumbing. Again, I'm happy with the result though. You can either build or buy the enclosures and if you have the room, than I'd definitely consider it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I finished the front of the projector box off. I waited so long because I wasn't sure how to do attach the front panel on. I figured I'd try the magnets, but the box sort of evolved as I built it and I could have planned better. The concern was the surface area where the magnets we installed and the corresponding side on the panel itself. I ended up buying a piece of sheet metal, cutting some 1 inch strips and screwing them to the panel itself. I could have used magnets on both sides (box and panel) it I planned things out better, but the sheet metal worked. Overall, the box looks pretty good, I'm happy how it turned out, considering how it evolved.



































And this is all you see during normal movie lighting.










Bud


----------



## brivnov

That projector box is Very nice. What are you doing to compensate for the heat coming out of the projector? I guess maybe it isnt as much as I though, but it looks as if there is not a way to vent the heat out of the box during a movie? Did you install a fan in the rear of the box?


No matter, very nice work. BTW, I took your general ticket window design, I hope you dont mind. Should be done with it in a few weeks.


Great theater


----------



## chinadog

brivnov,


Thanks! If you look you can see the blue box in 4th picture. That's an attic temperature switch. When it hits the right temperature, it turns on an inline duct fan that is in my workshop and draws the heat through a 4" duct. Although you can't tell from those pictures, in the front of the box is a register connected to the 4" duct. The back of the box is also vented to allow air to be drawn into the box. The AE900 vents from the front.


This older photo will give you a better view of whats under the covers:










No problem on the ticket window design. Steal away. If you haven't seen the progress photos, here they are. No plans really though.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...et_window_and/ 


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Bud, I just realized that the projector cover is on rails to slide back. That is a very cool idea and I don't recall seeing that done for anyone else's design. Very cool.


----------



## brivnov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> brivnov,
> 
> 
> Thanks! If you look you can see the blue box in 4th picture. That's an attic temperature switch. When it hits the right temperature, it turns on an inline duct fan that is in my workshop and draws the heat through a 4" duct. Although you can't tell from those pictures, in the front of the box is a register connected to the 4" duct. The back of the box is also vented to allow air to be drawn into the box. The AE900 vents from the front.
> 
> 
> This older photo will give you a better view of whats under the covers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem on the ticket window design. Steal away. If you haven't seen the progress photos, here they area. No plans really though.
> 
> http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...et_window_and/
> 
> 
> Bud




I see it now. Just a wonderful design and great way to finish off the projector.


Congrats


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, I just realized that the projector cover is on rails to slide back. That is a very cool idea and I don't recall seeing that done for anyone else's design. Very cool.



Thanks. It's on 20" drawer rails. Way, way back in the thread it was mentioned as a post, not sure if it was by me or someone else, I'd have to go look, but thought it would be cool idea to implement. It allows me to pull down the projector if need be, get to the wiring, conduit, temp switch, etc. I just wanted to hide the projector, but make it easy to get to.

*EDIT: Went back and found this post (and some discussion on a few following posts), which was a reference to a drawer like design in the soffit itself when I was going to go with the Mits 3000 by Dave (dc_pilgrim). That's what stuck in my head. Original idea and credit goes to Dave although my design ended up a little different. Thanks Dave!*

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6675615 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brivnov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see it now. Just a wonderful design and great way to finish off the projector.
> 
> 
> Congrats



Thanks!


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - The Hush Box looks sweat.


You can't have much more left to do in that Basement.......unless it upgrade time










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Don't worry about credit Bud. You did the work, and posted the pictures. That's as good as it gets to my mind. Your improvements made it a neater idea, anyways. Everything looks great, as usual.


----------



## garykagan

Bud - really nice job on the hush box. Looks amazing,


Gary


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the kind words guys.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can't have much more left to do in that Basement.......unless it upgrade time



Mark,


Not upgrading yet. Considering a HDDVD player, but no immediate plans for pulling the trigger. HTPC sometime next year as well as a star ceiling.


Light boxes will be next, then some smaller things, like some quarter round in the concession area. I'm going to do tin ceiling panels for the bar's backsplash. Just got some samples, need to make a final decision on panel and color.


There is always something to do!


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

So Bud, was it worth the effort?


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> I'm going to do tin ceiling panels for the bar's backsplash. Just got some samples, need to make a final decision on panel and color.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


Did you really like the tin panels? Do you have any pictures of your favorite patterns?


Thanks,


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Bud, was it worth the effort?



Dave,


Absolutely. Not a huge project, just took some thought. The goal was to hide the projector but still make it easy to get to. I think I accomplished that. I just hope there is not a lot of retro work to be done if I need to change out the projector in the future. I tried to allow extra room in the box, can easily change out the mount if need be and worst case, I could pull the whole thing down, including to GOM under the soffit and redo it (hence the track system used there for that section). I could always just sell the house too!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Did you really like the tin panels? Do you have any pictures of your favorite patterns?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Randy,


There are some unique colors I like. The samples are only 6x6 pieces, only part of a tile and not the whole tile. I'd lean towards a 6x6 pattern anyway versus a 12x12 or 24x24. I'll take a picture of the samples when I get home.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Did you really like the tin panels? Do you have any pictures of your favorite patterns?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Here are samples I've narrowed it down to. I haven't decided on the pattern, although I have an idea of what I want. More concerned about color at this point.



















Its a tough call. I think I can get away with any of the four in the second picture, although the two middle ones (2nd pic) may get lost with the color of the cabinets.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just hope there is not a lot of retro work to be done if I need to change out the projector in the future ... I could always just sell the house too!



LOL!


Buyer: "Why are you selling the house?"


Bud: "I wanted to upgrade my projector."


Buyer: "?!?"


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Interesting colors and patterns. As you know, you will have to be careful not to get too busy with patterns so it doesn't conflict with that killer granite top of yours. Your wall colors are so nice it's a shame to cover them up!


I know you didn't ask for opinions, but I like your walls below the cabinets the way they are. The contrasting cabinet, granite and wall colors are awesome. Maybe a small granite splash and that's it. Or some of those nice small tin signs as an accessory. I know you don't want it to look like a kitchen.


Which ever way you decide, I'm sure it's going to look terrific!


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Thanks and I'm always open to comments. I really don't want to make it look any more kitcheny than it does. This is one of those things that will sit there a while until "it comes to me". I do like to color combination under cabinets. I just caulked it all, so I need to go back this weekend and touch up the paint so it all blends. I'm considering a few other things besides the tin. You're right though, just a few simple accents may be enough.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - same here wondering if the Tin will make it too busy. Looks great as is - maybe just touch up the caulk as you mentioned or add a granite splas as Randy mentioned (although getting a granite match may be harder now).


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mark. Thanks for chiming in!


Bud


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


Since my basement is roughly the same size as yours only laid out differently, how many total electrical circuits did you run for the entire basement (outlets and lighting). I had a 100A subpanel put in but it only has 8 breaker spaces and was just curious as to how many you had.


John


----------



## chinadog

John,


Not sure off the top of my head, but will double check for you when I'm back at the house. If I had to guess, I would say 10-12. I'll let you know.


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

I'm kinda partial to the bronzes and coppers. Of the four in the second picture, I would probably go with the distressed copper looking one, but it's mostly cause the pattern stands out so well. If you could find the far left on in the second picture in a copper, then that would be my choice. The pattern reminds me of the ceilings in the old western bars and saloons.


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


I appreciate the reply. I will probably end up using half size breakers to get me 12 circuits. My local codes say no more than 12 outlets on a breaker but I want to split up a couple areas so I do not lose complete power in those areas.


Just a thought on your tins, I was at Big Blue the other day with the wife and saw some tin in the cabinetry area that was similar to what you have in the photo but has much more color variation to it and a broader range of colors (patinas) so you might want to check it out at your local store if you get the chance. I believe they were 16" square and also had the matching edge trims as well. They were adhesive attached I believe.


John


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm kinda partial to the bronzes and coppers. Of the four in the second picture, I would probably go with the distressed copper looking one, but it's mostly cause the pattern stands out so well. If you could find the far left on in the second picture in a copper, then that would be my choice. The pattern reminds me of the ceilings in the old western bars and saloons.



I like them as well, especially the distressed one. I believe you can get any of the patterns in any of the colors.

http://www.americantinceilings.com 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *John Martin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I appreciate the reply. I will probably end up using half size breakers to get me 12 circuits. My local codes say no more than 12 outlets on a breaker but I want to split up a couple areas so I do not lose complete power in those areas.
> 
> 
> Just a thought on your tins, I was at Big Blue the other day with the wife and saw some tin in the cabinetry area that was similar to what you have in the photo but has much more color variation to it and a broader range of colors (patinas) so you might want to check it out at your local store if you get the chance. I believe they were 16" square and also had the matching edge trims as well. They were adhesive attached I believe.
> 
> 
> John



John,


I actually have 12 breakers for the basement, but I also have 28 cans. I believe my father-in-law put at least one or two circuits in just for the gameroom/bar cans alone. There are 14 just in that area. He did all the figuring/wiring to the box.


I've seen the tin in the flyers for Blue, but have not seen it in person. I'll have to try and get over there. I also think that those are installed with adhesive.


Bud


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


Thanks for letting me know. I am only going to have 5 total lighting circuits and 5 power circuits.


John


----------



## John Martin

Hey Bud,


Just curious, but did you have to install a sewage pump in your basement? I just found out I need to and wondered if you had any experience in the matter or could recommend a brand.


John


----------



## chinadog

I actually have two for the basement. The first is for my utility sink in my workshop. That was installed by the builder. For the bathroom, the tub was preinstalled by the builder and the pump was put in by the plumber I hired when I had to rough-in work done. No idea of the brand at all, but I'll probably see him this week, he's suppose to come by for a check, so I'll ask him. The pump goes in and then gets capped, so I never even saw it.


I wouldn't install it, that's something I'd let the pros handle (and I did). It has to be properly vented, hooked up and sealed. You don't want any DIY blunders!


Bud


----------



## BoblK

Bud,


I think you mean you don't want a "crappy" installation.







Sorry, I could not resist.


Bob


P.S. I had a Pro do mine also.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BoblK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I think you mean you don't want a "crappy" installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I could not resist.
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> P.S. I had a Pro do mine also.



Smart man!


Bud


----------



## Zinema

Bud,

finally I managed to read your complete thread - although I should do some work and not spending so much time reading avs forum









You did a great jon on your HT room and bar area - very nice design, clean and exact building and sure you have an eye for details!

Especially I like your hush box design for your projector with the slide back cover - well done!


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Thanks. Hopefully not in one sitting! Some of these threads are quite long, but I guess thats good, at least its detailed enough for people to learn from or ask questions.


Bud


----------



## htCanada




chinadog said:


> (Thanks Joe!)
> 
> 
> 
> Is this your DVD intro? Or just an image at this point?
> 
> 
> Where can a fellow get a custom DVD intro made, similiar to what you have here ?
> 
> 
> I know there are lots of posts, but yours is exactly what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> DD


----------



## Chiahead




htCanada said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this your DVD intro? Or just an image at this point?
> 
> 
> Where can a fellow get a custom DVD intro made, similiar to what you have here ?
> 
> 
> I know there are lots of posts, but yours is exactly what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> DD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DD, follow this link, it tells you how to make your own.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=715166
Click to expand...


----------



## BritInVA

Bud,


Been searching your thread for the method you used to construct your proscenium 'removable' panels that cover your speakers and was unable to find. Recollect you used 1" material but not sure how they were constructed. I'm leaning toward using 2 layers of 1/2" ply cut in 1" strips, overlapping at the joints but as you made such a great job of yours was trying to locate you method.


So whats your next project - thought Id see you start an IB or Star ceiling by now










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Here is where I talk about the panels. I ripped down some 2x4s actually.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7442999 


I finally finished out all the stained quarter round for the bar and in the concession area. Lightboxes are next. I'm still working on decorating the gameroom, I just hung some more B&W sports photos. I also want to build some stained shelves for the bar area. I have a ton of autographed baseballs I need shelves for. I just brought down my barbers chair yesterday from the the garage with a help of the a neighbor. Today I think I'm going to clean up my traffic light and get that mounted.


I think I'll stay away from building my own subs and speakers, but the star ceiling will come in time!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htCanada* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this your DVD intro? Or just an image at this point?
> 
> 
> Where can a fellow get a custom DVD intro made, similiar to what you have here ?
> 
> 
> I know there are lots of posts, but yours is exactly what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> DD



Chiahead is correct. Reaper did this for me a while back, but looks like someone else is now making them.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Thanks Bud - not sure how I missed that.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## johnson_sb

Hey Bud,


Sorry, I know this is going way back. But I'm just about to the point of installing GOM myself and I'm trying to figure some things out. In the picture below you have a seam midway along your light tray. How did you get a clean line where the two fabric pieces met? Did you use one of those insulation rulers like you did in the corners? Or something else? And were you happy with the results? Thanks.


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a tough call. I think I can get away with any of the four in the second picture, although the two middle ones (2nd pic) may get lost with the color of the cabinets.
> 
> 
> Bud



I like the first tile


----------



## mmmkam

Its been a while since I checked in on your thread bud... Stunning work as always Bud!


I just skimmed the last few hundred posts to try and catch up. I will definitely have to set aside some time over thanksgiving weekend to go back and read all the details.


----------



## judsonp

Bud,


I read your entire thread and all I can say is very very nice. Thanks for offering such great insight to us do-it-yourselfers.


One question I do have now that you have had a chance to enjoy your theater is your rear ceiling speakers. Would you do it over again even if you didn't have to? I am not in quite the same situation as you are with no place to put them in the wall, but with 2 rows of seats if I put speakers in my colunms they will be aligned with the front row which will screw up the rear row. By the way I have a 5.1 system right now.


Thanks for your insight!


----------



## greekviking

Hey Bud,


Sorry, I know this is going way back. But I'm just about to the point of installing GOM myself and I'm trying to figure some things out. In the picture below you have a seam midway along your light tray. How did you get a clean line where the two fabric pieces met? Did you use one of those insulation rulers like you did in the corners? Or something else? And were you happy with the results? Thanks.




I have the same problem...How do you conceal this seem??? black ribbon?


----------



## gobble

Is there any magic to wrapping your soffits with GOM or was this just done for looks? It appears no lincoustic was applied to the bottom. I really like your soffit design, but was thinking it would be considerably easier to GOM up to the soffit and drywall the soffit.


----------



## johnson_sb

My situation is a little different than Bud's. The reason I'm putting GOM on my soffits is because the front and back soffits are bass traps that are really just framed and stuffed with acoustical cotton. They get covered with fabric to make them look nice and let the sound pass through. So then it just makes everything look consistent if I cover the side soffits (which are drywalled) with fabric as well.


----------



## johnson_sb

By the way, Bud, where are you these days???


----------



## chinadog

Sorry guys, just arrived back from Hilton Head. Was there a week. Unpacking the car now, will answer the questions tonight....


Bud


----------



## SteveMo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, just arrived back from Hilton Head. Was there a week. Unpacking the car now, will answer the questions tonight....
> 
> 
> Bud



Welcome back Bud.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson_sb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Sorry, I know this is going way back. But I'm just about to the point of installing GOM myself and I'm trying to figure some things out. In the picture below you have a seam midway along your light tray. How did you get a clean line where the two fabric pieces met? Did you use one of those insulation rulers like you did in the corners? Or something else? And were you happy with the results? Thanks.



Steve,


Thats exactly what I used. I couldn't find the drywall shims, those are probably a better/stiffer board to use. They worked fine, although I wish I had painted them black. You can see them in the flash pictures, but not in real life. I used some construction adhesive on them, folded the GOM over the edge and used small brad nails to secure them (remember there is wood under the drywall). Worked fine.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmmkam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its been a while since I checked in on your thread bud... Stunning work as always Bud!
> 
> 
> I just skimmed the last few hundred posts to try and catch up. I will definitely have to set aside some time over thanksgiving weekend to go back and read all the details.



Thanks, Mike. It does take some time to get through it if you're behind, I suppose.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *judsonp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I read your entire thread and all I can say is very very nice. Thanks for offering such great insight to us do-it-yourselfers.
> 
> 
> One question I do have now that you have had a chance to enjoy your theater is your rear ceiling speakers. Would you do it over again even if you didn't have to? I am not in quite the same situation as you are with no place to put them in the wall, but with 2 rows of seats if I put speakers in my colunms they will be aligned with the front row which will screw up the rear row. By the way I have a 5.1 system right now.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your insight!



Judsonp,


I think that if I had to do it again in the same room, yes, I'd do the in-ceiling speakers again. If I had another 2-3 feet of width, I might have done the columns, not just for sound, but for aesthetics. More of a true theater look. Give you more options for surrounds as well.


I have to admit though, I think what I have is great, regardless of the opinion of many about in-ceiling surrounds. I've very happy with how things worked out.


You'll never have a perfect setup for sides with multiple rows. There is some compromise there, you just need to do the ebst you can with what you have.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greekviking* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Sorry, I know this is going way back. But I'm just about to the point of installing GOM myself and I'm trying to figure some things out. In the picture below you have a seam midway along your light tray. How did you get a clean line where the two fabric pieces met? Did you use one of those insulation rulers like you did in the corners? Or something else? And were you happy with the results? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same problem...How do you conceal this seem??? black ribbon?



See my post back to Steve for the front (slanted) portion . For under the soffit, I actually used the fabricmate.com track where you can join two pieces.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gobble* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any magic to wrapping your soffits with GOM or was this just done for looks? It appears no lincoustic was applied to the bottom. I really like your soffit design, but was thinking it would be considerably easier to GOM up to the soffit and drywall the soffit.



My design changed midway through. I had originally intended to use linacoustic under the soffits, then after working with bpape, he recommended I not use linacoustic under the soffit. Painting is definitely easier than GOM when it comes to soffits.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Coming home from vacation yesterday, I was thinking about a poster/light box design. I had a Eureka kind of moment somewhere on route 16 between Savannah and Macon. Although, I haven't completely thought through it, I think I'm on to something. The next two weekends are shot already, so I'll be building them sometime during the Xmas vacation. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud - time to clean out some old PM's. Your mailbox is full.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - time to clean out some old PM's. Your mailbox is full.



Not any more. I just cleaned house.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ordered and received my double sided movie posters this week. This is what I picked up:



























I also ordered my cleats/wall mounts to bold the boxes from Rockler, found here:









http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10809 


Also, my neighbor called yesterday, he lost his battle for the space in his basement that he had a pool table in. The wife converted it to something else and he wanted to know if I wanted to keep his pool table until he figured out what to do with it. So, this weekend I'll get a loaner pool table for the gameroom. It's not a great table, but hey, at least I've got the space for it. Buying my own table is down the list a ways.


Bud


----------



## Winkelmann

Bud,

I've been contemplating wether to share this idea or market it. Well here it is.

I didn't like the fact that backlit poster frames are so damned bulky. I thought about framing them into the walls, until I found a promising product. It's essentially a flat (paper thin/flexible) light bulb powered by a dimmable low voltage transformer.

I played with it when I received it and it was great. It still needs to be mounted at least a 1/4" from the poster, otherwise, it gives of salmon light, instead of white.


JPG 0632 shows the light (on) next to a magazine, transformer shown. The magazine is taller than the light by about a 1/4".


JPG 0634 The picture says it all.


I don't know the life of the "bulbs." But, this would probably be a great item to set up a power buy, especially for near poster dimensions; the small unit was around $70.


Winkelmann


----------



## BoomerBrian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ordered and received my double sided movie posters this week. This is what I picked up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered my cleats/wall mounts to bold the boxes from Rockler, found here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10809
> 
> 
> Also, my neighbor called yesterday, he lost his battle for the space in his basement that he had a pool table in. The wife converted it to something else and he wanted to know if I wanted to keep his pool table until he figured out what to do with it. So, this weekend I'll get a loaner pool table for the gameroom. It's not a great table, but hey, at least I've got the space for it. Buying my own table is down the list a ways.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Great Theater. I have been lurking watching the progress. Just an FYI. Lowes also carries the Hangman. That is what I used to hang my screen. They work great.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Winkelmann* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> I've been contemplating wether to share this idea or market it. Well here it is.
> 
> I didn't like the fact that backlit poster frames are so damned bulky. I thought about framing them into the walls, until I found a promising product. It's essentially a flat (paper thin/flexible) light bulb powered by a dimmable low voltage transformer.
> 
> I played with it when I received it and it was great. It still needs to be mounted at least a 1/4" from the poster, otherwise, it gives of salmon light, instead of white.
> 
> 
> JPG 0632 shows the light (on) next to a magazine, transformer shown. The magazine is taller than the light by about a 1/4".
> 
> 
> JPG 0634 The picture says it all.
> 
> 
> I don't know the life of the "bulbs." But, this would probably be a great item to set up a power buy, especially for near poster dimensions; the small unit was around $70.
> 
> 
> Winkelmann



Winkelmann,


Nice. I've looked into the EL tape and related stuff, but haven't purchase anything yet. I had some ideas for the bar and marquee I was considering. Does it come in 27x40 sheets and if so, how much?


I had an idea about the bulkiness of poster boxes. I was thinking that the back of the box that contained the light fixture (rope light or fluorescent) could be partially built into the wall itself. Once thats done, you basically hang a poster frame over it with no back. Takes a little planning during the construction phase, but easily doable.


What I'm planning on doing is a two piece box. Doesn't solve the bulkiness problem though. Think of board game box, like Monopoly. There are essentially two pieces, once slips over the over. The bottom of the box in this case would be mounted to the wall. It would contain the light source and the diffuser. The top of the box would be the decorative side, where the poster would be installed. I'd use some decorative trim to make it look nice or maybe eve use a pre-made poster frame and attach it. Once the poster is installed, you slip on box over the other. It should hold in place by friction, but I could aways install some magnets or something else. The design makes for easy access to the poster and you wouldn't have to remove this heavy thing to change out posters. Make sense?


A few more weeks and I'll prototype it and see what happen.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BoomerBrian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Great Theater. I have been lurking watching the progress. Just an FYI. Lowes also carries the Hangman. That is what I used to hang my screen. They work great.



Hey Brian,


Thanks. I didn't realize they carried them. I had picked up on from Home Expo a while back and knew Rockler had them. Where in the store do you find them? By the wall anchors/picture hanging stuff? I also though about the clears the have for hanging cabinets, but these are better.


Bud


----------



## Winkelmann




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Winkelmann,
> 
> 
> Does it come in 27x40 sheets and if so, how much?
> 
> 
> Bud



I haven't called for a price on the large sheets. Due to the luminosity, I plan on using a 24 x 36 sheet. My plan is to use black gaffers tape to secure the light (along the edges) onto a 27 x 40 sheet of clear plexiglass, then sandwich the poster between the plexi and 1/8 " glass. The overall thickness will be determined by whichever frame I have made. I'll hang it on the wall like I normally would with any painting.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Winkelmann* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't called for a price on the large sheets. Due to the luminosity, I plan on using a 24 x 36 sheet. My plan is to use black gaffers tape to secure the light (along the edges) onto a 27 x 40 sheet of clear plexiglass, then sandwich the poster between the plexi and 1/8 " glass. The overall thickness will be determined by whichever frame I have made. I'll hang it on the wall like I normally would with any painting.



Make sure you use a clock outlet, that'll give you the room behind the frame to plug it in. Think 24x36 will be bright enough for a 27x40 poster? I'm curious how that'll look with it attached to clear plexi, it might create a visible "hot" area. You might want to consider a piece of white plexi to defuse it some if you go with 24x36. Where you planning on on doing this in the next few weeks? I'd like to see how that turns out before I start mine.


Thanks for the PM and link. Good stuff. BTW, where in the ATL are you?


Bud


----------



## Winkelmann

For the electric power supply, I'll run the wire through conduit and connect them off a low voltage run.

I'll do a scaled down test with the smaller light to see if it hot spots. The light is real even, if there is a dark band around the edges - there is the flashing banner which reads, "Entrepreneurs: Create Your Own Product."


Vinings, near the river.


----------



## chinadog

Didn't realize it was low voltage and makes sense. Need to go through the info in more detail.


Bud


----------



## SteveMo

Are you disassembling and then reassembling the pool table yourself? Please let me know how the installation goes and any photos would be appreciated as well. I would like to get an idea how difficult this would be to do.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Not sure yet. We're suppose to attempt the move tonight. Since its not a slate table, my guess is we'll just pick it up and move it intact. At least I get a free test to determine playability in the space I have.


Bud


----------



## SteveMo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Not sure yet. We're suppose to attempt the move tonight. Since its not a slate table, my guess is we'll just pick it up and move it intact. At least I get a free test to determine playability in the space I have.
> 
> 
> Bud



Very good deal then. The biggest issue with playability I have found is people bumping the ceiling with the pool cues.


----------



## r00ster

Bud, you are lucky it is not slate!! My pool table has 3 slate pieces that are heavier than sh**.







Plus you need to cover the cracks between the slate pieces and cover the screw holes with a concrete product called rockite.


After it is completey smooth and level then you can stretch the felt over the top and staple it in place then put on the bumpers. I am finishing my pool table install right now as I decided to change out the red felt for navy blue. And man if you are a perfectionist like I am it is a royal PITA.


Oh yeah DON'T EVER STEAM FELT. I made the mistake of trying to steam the new felt to remove some of the shipping creases and I ruined the felt. It now has streak marks from the steamer in three locations. $250 bucks for pool table felt down the tubes







I guess I can live with it until it wears out and I replace it again.


My advice hire a pool table company to set it up it just may be worth the price for the none headache.


Drew


----------



## SteveMo

My friends father I have known since elementary school owns a pool hall/pool table making and refurbishing business. I may talk to him if we consider moving ours. I would like my friend to come visit as well but he might be to busy running his pool hall.


----------



## chinadog

Drew,


I think I'd let the professionals do the job if I get my own table, but this will work for now. I think I'll end up just short of the room I really wanted to make things as playable as I would like. I really don't want to go down to a 7 footer, either. This will be a good test at least.


Steve,


I have 9 foot ceilings in the basement, but the soffits brought the sides down some. We'll see.


We made an attempt on Sunday to get the guys together to move it, but it didn't happen. We'll probably do it on Saturday now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ordered three poster frames from Frame USA that I'll use as the frame portion of my lightbox. They're too friggin' cheap to have to build them. I'll just retro fit the frames onto my lightbox design. I'm hoping to start next weekend.


Frame USA has some great prices, but you need to order at least 50.00 worth of stuff and if you order less than 100.00, they charge you 15.00 as a surcharge. I went with the Corporate Wide style.

http://frameusa.com/corpwide.htm 


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Ordered three poster frames from Frame USA that I'll use as the frame portion of my lightbox.




Checked out the link, nice find, Bud. Those should look great. Makes me wish I had thought of that instead of building mine out of trim










Scott


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Saw the links for frame USA in another thread here by jeffthx. 


I'll post on the quality once I get them. They look like a great deal.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My poster frames arrived from Frame USA today. They were packaged very, very well. I've very happy with the quality. They're solid. I ended up with three 27x40 and two 11x17.











I hung the two 11x17s already:


























Looks like I'll be able to easily convert the 27x40s to poster boxes. I'm going to go buy what I need tomorrow and start this weekend.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Wow, that site looks like some great deals! Nice find.. definitely worthy of a bookmark. Now I need to figure out whether to tell my wife, who will likely spend money..










Have you considered putting a black background behind the posters, Bud?


----------



## chinadog

Tim,


Cheap enough that you don't need to tell the wife! Definitely on the black backgrounds. Since I just got them, I figured I'd throw them up. BTW, the white you see is on the poster itself, not from the backing.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Picked up my wood today for the light box frames. I ended up going with 1x3x10 poplar. I was going to rip 2x4s down, but decided it was too much of a hassle and I may stain the boxes or paint them a flat black. The only thing I need now is to get some more diffusers. I had a 2x4 white panel from one of those drop ceiling lights and need to get about five more. I was hoping to start tomorrow, but looks like it'll be Sunday, although I'm hoping to get maybe the design nailed tomorrow. I was instructed I was going to a neighbors kids "Pump It Up" party. Fun, fun.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Worked on my light boxes some today. I was able to cut and rip all the wood down to size. I also came up with a few ideas that I think will simplify construction some. First, here is what I drew up as a design. Basically, the design idea is like a game box (think of a Monopoly game box). You have two pieces to the box. The inside box, typically the dull box, and the outer box with all the info about the game and pictures. The inner box is used to contain the rope light and acts as a support mechanism for the outer box. This box will be attached to the wall. The outer box will have a pre-made poster frame attached to it. The outer box then slips over the inner box.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

So here is the first poster and frame. Part of this concept is to replace the cardboard that comes with the back of the frame with a diffuser. The frames have those little metal "tabs" that hold the cardboard in place. A while back I bought one of the 2x4 white diffusers for those big lights for drop ceilings. I was going to use these for the box diffuser. I was concerned that those little tabs might show up behind the poster when back light, so I played with and and no issue (the edge of this poster is dark anyway). I laid the frame on the bar with the poster and diffuser in it and shined a 500W halogen light through it and it was fine.



















To get an idea of the size of the box I needed, I used the very inside of the frame as a reference for the exact measures of the inner box. I used the outside of the frame for the outside measurements of the outer box.



















So here is a shot to show both boxes. Notice there is a little gap, which will allow a few things. First, it allows expansion and contraction. Second, if the boxes were two close together, you'd have a difficult time getting the boxes separated to change posters.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

You can't tell from the last photo, but I ripped down all the inner pieces about 3/8 of an inch narrower than the outer boxes. This will allow me to use a backer to firm up the box and allow me to attached the rope light to. I was going to use originally use 1/4 ply for the back, but then when looking for a diffuser, ran into some white bead board. I bought a 4x8 sheet, which will allow me to get three pieces out of for my three light boxes. Also, since its white, I won't have to paint it either. Mounting support will come from the extra piece of wood across the back (see original design a few posts up).











I also decided against the white 2x4 diffusers, since I would have had to use 2 per box, each 20"x27" and have a seam. I read in Clarence's poster box thread about Ed Weiland's poster lightbox who recommends using window film. Based on that I decided to use one piece of clear plexiglass and cover that with a white frosted window film for a single diffuser. You can see the extra plexiglass in the above picture.


Here is the film I bought at HD:











Tomorrow, I need to get some 1.5 inch deck screws and glue and screw all six frames together (3 inner and 3 outer), put the backer on the three inner boxes. I'll paint the outer boxes a flat black to match the frames as well and will probably be it for the day.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OH YEAH! Finally got my street light rewired, cleaned up and painted (supports only). Once it was dry, I mounted it in the corner. I had put in a switched outlet just for it. The TV will go back upstairs soon, since it'll be in the way of the pool table where it is. I'm still working on getting that over to the house.



























I also got my barber's chair down from the garage. Free hair cuts to AVS members! Of course, I only know how to shave heads.



















Gettin' there!

*Happy Holidays to All!!*


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Hey Bud, interesting idea with the dual box design. But I kinda wonder if you really need 2 boxes. How about you keep the outer box with the poster, and just have the back board on the wall with the lighting attached? It would be kind of like a light box with a removable back. The back would be attached to the wall like you were planning for the wall box and the removable poster box would attach to the back. That would sure cut down the work and the weight. And an angled metal piece at the top would hold the poster box in place on the back board and make it somewhat easy to remove.


I think I explained it OK, but I went ahead and broke out my mad paint skills and drew you a picture.


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


Interesting. I think that would work actually. The picture did help. The only concern I have is of the outer box/frame combo has to lay perfectly flat on the wall to ensure no light escapes from the sides if the cuts or walls are perfect. I guess you could use a foam insulation or something around the edges to trap it.


One other thing I was thinking about the box design was how to secure it so that the outer box doesn't slip off (someone bumps it or something). I was thinking of using some of the extra magnets to hold the two boxes together. You'd probably have to do the same with your design.


Another nice thing about this design is if I want to rotate the posters between the light boxes, all I have to do is move the outer boxes fromone location to the next.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

You could use velcro...


----------



## chinadog

Velcro may work too well, actually!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Today I built my inner boxes and outer boxes. I countersunk the holes for 1 5/8 deck screws, glued and screwed the inner boxes together. Pretty solid and surprisingly light. For the outer boxes, I used brads and glue. I may go back and add some "L" brackets though. I think they're solid and with the frames attached, the should be fine, so we'll see. I also cut the bead board to size used 1/2" staples and glue for that. I then filled holes on the outer boxes and sanded everything down.



























If I have time tomorrow, I'll put on a first coat of paint in everything. I may cut the plexiglass for the diffusers as well.


Shot of the countersunk holes and support braces.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's a shot with the inner box and outer box laying on the frame itself.



























Bud


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One other thing I was thinking about the box design was how to secure it so that the outer box doesn't slip off (someone bumps it or something). I was thinking of using some of the extra magnets to hold the two boxes together. You'd probably have to do the same with your design.



On my design, the angled metal piece would hold it in place on the back board. It should be far more secure than any picture frame hung on the wall in the average house. A simple bump wouldn't do much to it provided the back is mounted with french cleats or something similar and doesn't fall off easily.


Since your boxes are fairly snug fit, you just need something to hold it in place and keep the front from sliding off. A couple of pins in the top should do the trick. Drill two holes in the top through the outer box and at least part way into the inner box. Then insert pins into the top. Gravity will keep the pins in place and they will stop the boxes from sliding apart. Cut framing nails would work fine for this if you need something as a pin.


Damn, I'm going to have to resort to my paint skills again. OK, here is the top of the box:


----------



## chinadog

Got it ... even without the drawing! Good idea.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hope everyone had a great holiday today!


I managed to steal some time and paint the inner boxes. I decided to paint the backing with a high gloss white, since the bead board wasn't very reflective. I'm hoping to get the outer boxes painted tomorrow night. I need to go to HD tomorrow and get some black spray paint.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Another idea, since you mentioned reflectivity... Take some spray-on adhesive and apply to the backer board, then carefully lay some tinfoil across it.


----------



## chinadog

Tim,

I actually just discovered that Rustoleum makes a silver metallic paint as well as a frosted glass paint for windows. I may try the white and see how it is and if if I'm not happy, may try the metallic. I plan on cutting down some rope light tracks and sticking them on the back of the bead board. Not sure if the weight of the rope light will pull the foil of the back or not.


Bud


----------



## mheadroom

Bud,


Did the frames include glass/plexi or are they just open? Thanks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ordered three poster frames from Frame USA that I'll use as the frame portion of my lightbox. They're too friggin' cheap to have to build them. I'll just retro fit the frames onto my lightbox design. I'm hoping to start next weekend.
> 
> 
> Frame USA has some great prices, but you need to order at least 50.00 worth of stuff and if you order less than 100.00, they charge you 15.00 as a surcharge. I went with the Corporate Wide style.
> 
> http://frameusa.com/corpwide.htm
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## chinadog

The frames included plexiglass. It's not as thick as the stuff I bought at HD for the diffuser, but it's sufficient.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ran to HD on the way home from work tonight to pick up some spray paint. Bought black semi-gloss, which matches the frames nicely. The flat black I used on the inner frames didn't match too great. I also picked up some "L" brackets, screws and a couple extra quick clamps. I was thinking of screwing the boxes to the frames from the back, then was thinking carpenters glue and brads from the front (worst case I fill the holes and repaint the frames), then decided that I would go with some glue and a few "L" brackets. I think that'll be fine. The glue will probably work just fine, but you never know.


So here are the painted inner and outer boxes. The outer boxes are still a little sticky, it's been raining here and the humidity is high, otherwise I would have mounted at least one of the frames to the outer box.



























Please excuse the mess in my workshop ...


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looking good man. Have you considered wax paper as a diffuser between the plexi and poster? Might be worth a test. I have been experimenting with it for a light marque and find it does a great job.


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Thanks. I think there is a lot of stuff you can use. You can probably even use copier paper. I was thinking of your bro-in-law the other day, they probably make translucent plexi as well. Since I have the Gila film, I'll use that. One roll was about 18.00 and that'll cover all three diffusers. I'm thinking about a mylar box next, maybe I'll try that or that frosted spray paint for 4.00/can.


Any pictures of your marque?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got my "L" brackets installed this morning and am gluing up the first frame/outer box. I have small "L" brackets to also secure the frame to the box, but they came with #6 3/4" screws and I think they're too big. I used #6 1/2" screws on the corners, so I'll use those. Another trip to Orange today to get them. I won't take the clamps off until I have the brackets in secured.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

I had to use a sharpie on the edge of the frame since it was slightly beveled. One the two piece come together, it there was any slight gap, you could see the raw frame.










I went ahead and used the screws that came with the brackets and attached the frame to the outer box once the glue had enough time to set. I used two brackets on the sides and one on the ends. To ensure I didn't drill through the frames, I used a small finishing nail as a drill bit and made sure the length was only as long as it needed to be.


















So here is the first box with the frame attached. I put one of the inner boxes underneath to test fit it, so we're go to go. I've glued the second one and will put the brackets on shortly.


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

All three outer boxes/frames are complete... glued and attached together. I went ahead and mounted the inner boxes to the walls tonight. I didn't use the Hangmans that I was originally going to use, I went ahead and put screws through the supports and boxes into the studs. I've very happy how they turned out. To me, they look store bought (and they are partially). Next up is to install the rope light.


Interesting thing and small oversight on my part when I put in the outlets for the boxes... all three weren't centered or even at the same height. This made it a little more complicated, since my plans were to center the box on the wall and wanted them to be at a uniform height. My plans were to cut out the area on the back panel where the outlet was. Not a big deal, just took some measuring, remeasuring and a little math to make sure the inner boxes were centered and at the right height before cutting the holes in the back of the boxes.


The outer boxes fit great and are really solid. I don't think there is a need for securing the inner and out boxes together. You'd have to really pull them off, hitting them sideways won't do much.



































Bud


----------



## chinadog

My son encouraged me to put the posters in even though they're not quite done yet. Here are a few shots:



























Bud


----------



## larryep

Those poster boxes look great, very nice.

Your son is getting big.


----------



## chinadog

Went through my storage room last night rummaging for the extra rope light I had and finally found it. I had bought a 150 foot roll for the HT room of the frosted white (1/2 inch 120v) and I have plenty left over for the boxes. I even had some track left and will use that as well. That'll be tonights focus, since I'm heading into the office today.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those poster boxes look great, very nice.
> 
> Your son is getting big.



Thanks Larry. He is getting big, he turned seven about a month ago and looks more like a 8-9 year old!


Bud


----------



## seth.trimble

nice work


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Seth... and welcome.


Bud


----------



## jimfitz

Is it me, or are there not any shots of the theater itself? I have been reviewing all 98 pages but I can't seem to locate them. You do great work bud.


Oh, BTW....good job leaving big blue! They make my life hell everyday!!


----------



## chinadog

Jim,


Thanks. There's like 800+ pictures of the basement, but some of the more finished pictures are here in this album. I'll up these at some point.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...theater_shots/ 


On leaving BB, I haven't regretted it a second!


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Me either..










Bud, are you going to have a cord showing, or hide it in the wall somehow?


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, are you going to have a cord showing, or hide it in the wall somehow?



C'mon...does any of this work here lead you to believe he would design something like a cord hanging out??










It looks like the outlet is actually inside the frame - so no cords will be visible. I assume the outlets are switched...


----------



## miltimj

Ahh, I missed that part.. Nice.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys.


All the outlets will be hidden in the boxes themselves. The two outside the theater are connected to a switch outside the theater (the one next to the Harry Potter poster). The other box (King Kong) is switched in the bar (with the street light). Obviously, I planned that out a long time ago. Actually, the poster box outlet with King Kong was going to be a neon light originally, but that's in the bar now on the counter above the fridge.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - the finishing touches really pulling it all together. What you got left on you 'to do' list?


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark, thanks!


Hmmm, lets see. As far as building is concerned, I need to finish up the light boxes (today or tomorrow), build a mylar box and my poker table. Still need to get a fridge and a popcorn machine for my concession area. In the game room, still waiting to move the pool table in and need to hang a light for itl. I still need blinds and area rugs in there as well. I may/may not do a keg fridge, still thinking through that. Oh and still need to stock the bar!


I may do a fiber ceiling this summer/fall and a HTPC at some point. I'm also thinking of building a MAME machine as well.


I expect this thread will be be around for some time!

















Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - can't wait to see you MAME build. Its on my wish list but I got some other rooms to do before I'll be able to start that project.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


It'll be a while, but already have the hardware allocated for it, so that's a start. I expect I'll need to take a month or two off before the next project. To add to the list above, I'm itching to get a flat panel for the bar before the Superbowl and about 5 barstools...


Bud


----------



## sdspga

Nice job on the light boxes Bud.



> Quote:
> I'm also thinking of building a MAME machine as well.



OK, I admit it. I am a just a humble HT part-timer. What is a "MAME" machine?


sds


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice job on the light boxes Bud.
> 
> 
> OK, I admit it. I am a just a humble HT part-timer. What is a "MAME" machine?
> 
> 
> sds



Thanks Scott.


I'm new to it myself. MAME stands for Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator. "MAME is an emulator application designed to recreate the hardware of arcade game systems in software, with the intent of preserving gaming history and preventing vintage games from being lost or forgotten."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAME 
http://www.mame.net/mamefaq.html#g01 


In a nutshell, you take an old PC and buy/build a cabinet to house it, get the controllers, buttons, trackball, etc and build your own arcade game. You can even buy and/or design graphics for the sides of the cabinets.


The end result is something like this:










Here's a recent thread on the topic as well:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=770818 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, I put my first set of rope lights in one box. Afterwards, I went to cut a piece of plexiglass to put in a diffuser and check out how it looks. After attempting to snap the second cut and breaking it, I decided to call it a night. What a pain in the ass plexiglass can be! I suppose I'll attempt another piece in the morning.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Bummer. I use a metal cutting blade on a radial arm saw or table saw. Hot knife through butter.


----------



## chinadog

I would have thought a table saw blade would tear the stuff right up. Interesting. I'll be doing some experimenting today with the busted pieces.


Jason, any tips from your brother in law?


Bud


----------



## ebr

I don't have a MAME machine but, in the interest of "preserving the heritage of gaming" I do have this:











I can't count how many hours of my youth I spent on one of these. I remember I played one game for 9 hours straight once - on one quarter







. Walked away from the machine after that time after having "rolled" it countless times.


I guess I just dated myself.


----------



## chinadog

Nice!


----------



## chinadog

OK, so here is the deal. I ruined one piece of plexi last night doing the score and snap method. I ruined another piece this morning using a Dremel (looked like it was going to work, then it shattered) and I ruined the last piece using a jigsaw with a fine metal blade. I tested both the Dremel and the jigsaw on scrap pieces as well. Man, what a pain in the arse!


So now that I've calmed down some, I went and ordered custom cut pieces of "Milky White" 1/8" plexiglass from Professional Plastics online. I'm done messing around with this crap. I got pieces 27.125 x 40.125 (+/- .062 tolerance) and I'm sure they'll be perfect at 30.00 each.


Here is the order form:
http://www.professionalplastics.com/.../prrfnbr/85259 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are few shots after the rope light is installed. I had originally purchase the rope light for the HT room and bought a 150 foot roll from Novelty Lights . I had six pieces of 48" track left (I have the clips as well, but didn't use them), so that's two tracks per box I could use without having to buy more. I bought these at Novelty Lights as well . I just cut the track down into 4" pieces and used double sided tape to adhere them to the box. I only used the track pieces on the top and bottom of the box, prior to making the "turn" and on the ends. Works well. I think I need about 3 more rolls of the tape though.


The first shot is with the flash on, the other is with it off.


















I used about 30 feet. This stuff can be cut every 18 inches. I still need to get that cord out of the way.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

There are two critical pieces to the cutting that I suppose I should've emphasized:


- The blade must be metal/plastic cutting (essentially no teeth, only ridges along the edge)

- The blade must be circular, not reciprocating


Since you were using a reciprocating with the jigsaw, that was the issue. Seriously, the circular metal blade works very well..










By the way, it looks awesome! Doesn't look like 30 ft either; like you fit more in there, but I'm sure it's plenty. Nice job.


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are two critical pieces to the cutting that I suppose I should've emphasized:
> 
> 
> - The blade must be metal/plastic cutting (essentially no teeth, only ridges along the edge)
> 
> - The blade must be circular, not reciprocating



Are you sure about the blade type? I have used a carbide blade and it worked fine.


Also, a jig saw should work fine with the right blade and ONLY IF THE PLEXI IS THICK! Thin plexi, forget about it, don't even attempt it with a jig saw.


----------



## chinadog

I saw somewhere where people actually put the blade in backwards in jigsaw. I also read you need a carbide tip blade for a table saw. No matter, my plexiglass days are over (for now at least). Now I just have to wait for the stuff to be shipped.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

What is this, you are taking the easy way out?










I know what you are talking about though. The plastic diffusers for flourescent lights are a PITA to cut down to size without breaking.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is this, you are taking the easy way out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> I know what you are talking about though. The plastic diffusers for flourescent lights are a PITA to cut down to size without breaking.



Absolutely! I know when I've met my match.










I figure I can either buy more 3x4 sheets of plexiglass and break them or pay a few bucks more with a built in diffuser and custom cut. Hmmmm. I can return the Gila film as well, so if you factor that in, it really makes no sense to do it myself, although I could qualify it as an "educational experience". Yeah, right!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I think I'm in about *400.00* for all the materials to build the three light boxes. I've also included the cost of the plexiglass mistakes and the 90 feet of rope light I already had in the cost. If I take out those two, it would be about *280.00* for all three light boxes. So that's *about 133.00 each or 94.00 each*, depending on how you look at it. Not bad.


Poster Frames (33.00 ea. x 3): *99.00*

80 linear feet of 1x3" Poplar (@ 0.89 lf) for framing: *71.20*

1.5" Corner braces (3 @ 1.89): *5.67*

1" Corner brace (5 @ 1.89): *9.45*

2" Deck screws (1 lb): *6.87*

1/2" zinc wood screws ([email protected] 0.97): *3.96*

High gloss white paint (1 qt): *7.88*

Flat black paint (1 qt): *7.88*

Semi-gloss black spray paint (2 cans @ 2.97):*5.94*
36x48" Plexiglass - the mistakes (3 @ ~20.00): *~60.00*

27.125x47.125" Milky White custom cute plexiglass: *30.00*
90' Frosted white 1/2" rope light(had this leftover from HT room): *~60.00*

1/2" rope light track (6 48" tracks @ 2.00): *12.00*

1 4x8' piece of Bead board (oops, forgot): *~18.00*


The cheapest front loading poster frames I've seen are about 75.00 (45.00 difference for each box). I suppose if you did front loading frames, you could modify the design some to save a little money, although I don't expect to be buying and changing a lot of posters, maybe twice a year.


The cheapest light boxes I've seen are on eBay from a store called River City Theaters. Starting bid is 205.00 (plus 60.00 to ship), not sure what the actual ones would go for. That's not bad really if you can get them for that. Granted 3 @ 205.00 = 615.00 plus 180.00 shipping is 795.00 versus 400.00 or 280.00...


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

Very nice bud... Another great project idea I will have to borrow.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Mike. Borrow away!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hey man...you should have called. I could have helped you out with that plexi.


anyhow, when you get around to the mame machine - let me know. I have over 10,000 roms. back to stapling for me...hanging up fabric is very time consuming.










;-)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey man...you should have called. I could have helped you out with that plexi.
> 
> 
> anyhow, when you get around to the mame machine - let me know. I have over 10,000 roms. back to stapling for me...hanging up fabric is very time consuming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ;-)



Yeah, I know. Frustrated impatient instant-gratification-impulse purchase.... one of many in the last 18 months....







One less thing to worry about now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I worked on and finished the rope light in the second and third box today. Here's a close up of the tracks I used. I cut them down in small sections and that's all thats required to hold each section. One on top, one on the bottom. I forgot to include the double sided tape in my estimate above, but its a couple of bucks.











Closeup installation pictures below. I think 30 feet works well, but can't say until I get the diffusers.



















Bud


----------



## hltr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First impressions on the 880...
> 
> 
> There are a few quirks that I'm working through. Initial setup is straight forward through the web site. There are some unintuitive web site navigations once you start fine tuning. It works fine with the all my components and the IR543AH, although for brightening and dimming certain lights, you have to send multiple "Bright" or "Dim" commands. I'm able to hit "Watch a DVD" and all the components turn on, get configured to the right inputs, turn off the lights, etc. I'm having issues getting commands to my PCS SMST6 Scene controller though, even though it supports it, so working through that.
> 
> 
> Bud



Yesterday I brought home the Harmony 670. I am so pleased. Yes, the software has its little quirks, but it's great to have these macro activities taking care of everything with the push of a button. The little lady loves it, and that is saying something.


----------



## chinadog

Glad that worked out for you. I like the 880, I'm used to it now. I still think there are a few things I need to change control for, but I'll get to it. For the most part, the current setup with the PowerLinc, serves its purpose.


I'm curious about the new Harmony 1000, due to be released this month. A tad pricey though:
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/pr...ontentid=12498 


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad that worked out for you. I like the 880, I'm used to it now. I still think there are a few things I need to change control for, but I'll get to it. For the most part, the current setup with the PowerLinc, serves its purpose.
> 
> 
> I'm curious about the new Harmony 1000, due to be released this month. A tad pricey though:
> http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/pr...ontentid=12498
> 
> 
> Bud



Yeah, I like the hard buttons together with the screen. If that thing just ran a standard OS such that I could run MainLobby on it, I'd jump.


Happy New Year!


----------



## chinadog

Happy New Year to you as well!


I know Mark P and Ruben are looking into the home automation control and what to use. There is a lot of discussion in their threads about it. Mark P just posted some pictures of some tablets running windows here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...63#post9328163 


Bud


----------



## ebr

Yeah, I've got one of those EO TabletKisoks on the way. Got a deal on smebay I couldn't refuse...







.


I've got my Progear currently running DVDLobby but it is s l o w and is too big to be a true remote control device. I'm hoping there will be a way for me to make some of those hard buttons on the EO work as volume etc. and I can use it as a "Now Playing" control. I think the wife will like it a lot but I may have trouble giving up the quick, no look, touch control of my MX-800.


Something like that new Harmony with true volume and navigation buttons plus the touch screen with MainLobby would be the perfect device.


----------



## chinadog

I'm curious how that works for you, post something in here or in your thread when you've had some face time with it.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Those light boxes look great -- very professional looking. I have a short hallway leading up to my HT and wanted to put a few there. I still need to convince the wife, though







I'll show her yours and maybe that will change her mind


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. Pretty easy to build, not quite as hard as speakers and subs! Pretty cheap too!


Bud


----------



## chall87

Bud,

Poster frames look great. I'm looking to either buy or build myself. I saw the River City Theater frames you referenced on ebay and have been contemplating them. My only issue is the floursecent lights. I've got my Lutron grafik eye light control setup to control lighting for two poster frames and I'm sharing this same lighting zone with some halogen under cabinet lighting that I want to dim. I don't believe flourescents take kindly to dimming and Lutron advises not to mix the two light types. I'm out of zones on my light control and can't afford dedicated a zone to the frames. Your design is interesting in that I'm assuming the rope lighting is incadescent. Is this correct? The rope lights in your photo's without flash are very white which would suggest something closer to flourscent. I have some unused rope lighting I picked up from Home Depot I could use but the lighting is more yellowish. Does the rope lighting put off enough heat that you need to worry about cooling? I would think they'd run hotter than floursecents and River City advertises they have cooling vents to prevent damage / puckering of the poster. Was this a worry for you and did you address somehow in your design?


I'd also like to see a final picture of how the poster looks illuminated with this lighting. I didn't see one posted yet unless I missed it somewhere.


Chuck


----------



## SVonhof

Chuck, Bud is probably waiting for his custom-cut diffusers to get there to say he is finished.


----------



## chinadog

Chuck,


Scott is correct. Waiting on the white diffusers to be delivered still. When I get them, hopefully this week, likely next week, I'll post new pictures.


The rope light is incandescent and it is dimmable. It's from the same rope light spool I used in the theater. I think they look whiter since they're a frosted white versus a clear white rope light. They never get hot to the touch, just warm. I think they're rated at 5W per foot, so I'm looking at 150 watts total. There is a gap between the rope light and the poster. Many of the poster boxes used in Clarence's thread use the Home Depot rope light, not sure why yours is more yellow. You might want to review that thread. Here is that info, I also posted my stuff there:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=496487 


I didn't see where River City mentions the vents. My concern with the vents is light leakage. I'm not sure how you can have holes in the boxes without light spillage as well. I'll go back and take another look.


I'll post pictures as soon as I can.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My son is in cub scouts now and my wife has been having the meetings at our house in the basement. Works out well since there is enough room for everyone and the siblings that tag along get to watch a movie from time to time. Anyway, last night was a meeting night. I got home late last night from work and headed downstairs about 10:00 PM to watch something (ended up to be Rocky IV - HD on demand from Comcast). I had noticed that the poster boxes were on, I could tell by the small light spillage on the side of the poster on one. Since I don't have the diffusers in, it's really hard to tell they were on. My wife turned them on by accident and they were on at least a few hours, likely at least 3 hours. You could feel some heat from them, so I figured I'd take off the outer box and see how hot it was. I was about to put my hand on them a leave it on without issues. They were warm, no doubt, but no problem with being too hot.


Bud


----------



## chall87

That's a good point about the vents causing light spillage. The reference in their e-bay listing references "carefully" placed lights and in subsequent paragraph describe how there frame design has no light leakage. Not sure exactly how they achieve this. To find their listing on e-bay just do a listing serach for illuminated movie poster and look for the 2nd or so listing for $205.00


Glad to hear yours is running without getting too warm. I'll have to go back and look at my rope lighting again to see how white the light is. It's branded Hampton Bay.


Chuck


----------



## chinadog

Chuck,


Not exactly sure how they do it as well. I went back and reread the info and can't figure it out. I guess you'd have to buy one to see it!


I looked at the rope light at HD, it just doesn't seem real bright to me either. You should look elsewhere or at noveltylights.com maybe, which is where I got mine.


I emailed Professional Plastics on the status of my diffusers and they replied that they would be here this week. I'll retake some shots then.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Looking at doing a mylar box next. Not sure what sized mylars yet though, Need to figur out where to hang it first and that'll be dependent on where I can tap into an outlet. I figured I can add a X10 outlet and control it by either an X10/Insteon switch or my powelinc controller. I actually have some X10 outlets and Insteon switches laying around already.


Here some info posted on the mylar box. Clarence referenced them in his thread on the light boxes as well. I think I can do a little better, but its a good start.
http://white.hometheatertalk.com/tips/lightbox.htm 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Finally got the pool table in place this weekend. Although it's not the best table, since its a loaner it allows me to figure out if the space is be enough to justify me going out and buying a table. As it stands, one side wall might be an issue. We'll see. The kids are having fun at least with it. I'll snap a pic later today.


I also got my blinds installed this weekend down there and bought a few area rugs. Still waiting on bar stools and my flat screen above the bar.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh yeah, still waiting on my damn diffusers from Professional Plastics too. I think I ordered that stuff on 12/29.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As it stands, one side wall might be an issue. We'll see.



I had a friend with the same issue. While not optimal.. she just bought a shorter stick for shots from that side of the table. Worked out pretty well.


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not exactly sure how they do it as well. I went back and reread the info and can't figure it out. I guess you'd have to buy one to see it!



About a year ago, I broke down and bought one of the River City boxes from ebay. I want to end up with 6 light boxes, and I figured I'd buy one and copy. The lightboxes are pretty nice, actually, but certainly not worth the $265 if you have the skills to DIY. There are 2 36" tall fluorescents inside and they are mounted to what looks like a thin sheet of metal. The metal covers most of the rear of the box, but directly above the fluorescents the metal is cut at an angle to the corners and folded up to reflect the light. Behind this folded piece of metal is where the vents are. 3 small holes on top and 3 on the bottom. There is no light leakage at all. My only complaint about the lightbox is the way you change posters. You have to swing open the entire left side, which is attached by a spring to the rest of the box. This isn't the hard part, but because the back of that piece was painted, it leaves paint marks on the wall.


I want to complement you on your Poster lightboxes. They look awesome. I really like how easy the box-inside-a-box idea works and might try to duplicate it myself. I do like how the River City box looks too, so I might have to mix and match. My wife is really hounding me to finish the lightboxes, so I'm going to have to get going on those.


Can't wait to see how the posters look once you get your diffusers.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a friend with the same issue. While not optimal.. she just bought a shorter stick for shots from that side of the table. Worked out pretty well.



A shorter stick came with the table, although I haven't had too much face time with the table yet, having to install the blinds and been parked on my butt whenever possible to watch the NFL playoffs. I have a 35" TV to move somewhere, its also in the way of the table. I'm greasing the wife for the flat screen TV for the bar, hoping to have the green light before Feb 4....


I also need to make a pool cue holder (wall mount). He didn't give me all the cues and I felt funny asking for it..










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> About a year ago, I broke down and bought one of the River City boxes from ebay. I want to end up with 6 light boxes, and I figured I'd buy one and copy. The lightboxes are pretty nice, actually, but certainly not worth the $265 if you have the skills to DIY. There are 2 36" tall fluorescents inside and they are mounted to what looks like a thin sheet of metal. The metal covers most of the rear of the box, but directly above the fluorescents the metal is cut at an angle to the corners and folded up to reflect the light. Behind this folded piece of metal is where the vents are. 3 small holes on top and 3 on the bottom. There is no light leakage at all. My only complaint about the lightbox is the way you change posters. You have to swing open the entire left side, which is attached by a spring to the rest of the box. This isn't the hard part, but because the back of that piece was painted, it leaves paint marks on the wall.
> 
> 
> I want to complement you on your Poster lightboxes. They look awesome. I really like how easy the box-inside-a-box idea works and might try to duplicate it myself. I do like how the River City box looks too, so I might have to mix and match. My wife is really hounding me to finish the lightboxes, so I'm going to have to get going on those.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see how the posters look once you get your diffusers.



Thanks very much and thanks for the info. You just gave me an idea. I can probably drill three or four 1-1.5" holes in the top of each box, but have them staggered so the outer box doesn't not line up with the inner box. That may work, I'd have to test it.


I have noticed that that one or two sections of track came loose from the inner box. I installed the rope light with it on, hence they were flexible. I think once they cooled down, they got rigid and the pressure pulled the tape off. I'll put a few extra intermediate sections of track and that should work. Worst case is I could use full sections, but don't think I need it.


Also, I called and left a message for woman at Professional Plastics who hasn't returned my email on my order. Starting to get a little frustrated.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, just received my tracking number from Professional Plastics! Fedex picked up the package today about an hour ago. No target date in the Fedex site yet though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

The plexiglass has arrived at the house. I'll install and take a few pictures tonight.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

It's about damn time!


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, the whole project looks awesome, and congrats on 100 pages!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's about damn time!



Tell me about it!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, the whole project looks awesome, and congrats on 100 pages!



Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So the "milky white" plexi came today. Packaged well and in good shape. He's how it was delivered:










An each individual piece looked like a piece of heavy cardboard. Both sides were covered:


















Bud


----------



## chinadog

It was hard to tell what this stuff looked like until you got both sides of paper off. It was a pain in the butt, but wasn't too bad. Here is what it looks like naked:










Here's a closer shot of how opaque it is:










It's pretty thick too. I ordered 1/8" (0.125) thick, which was thicker than I expected, but worked out well, since it'll give the poster a nice firm backing. Hard to tell from this shot how thick it is.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

This is the exact order from Professional Plastics: *(SACR.1252447E) .125 THICK WHT #2447 EXTRUDED ACRYLIC - 40.125 x 27.125 @+/- 0.062*


As you can see, I order 40 1/8" x 27 1/8" +/ 1/16". Well, the fit was perfect. Too perfect in fact. Because of the thickness, I had to pull off one side of my "L" brackets on the top and bottom because the overhung the inside of frame just a little. No big deal. In fact, I'm still not convinced I need them since I glued up everything. He's what I'm talking about.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

So here is what the diffuser looks like installed from the back:










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is what they look like lit up. This was with no flash obviously. They're actually brighter than expected, although you can't tell by these photos. The darker posters look really dark in these shots:



























The pictures don't do them justice. I'm pretty happy how they came out.


Bud


----------



## BFauska

I think the pictures look good. If they look better in real life then more power to you. Definately a well done project. Congrats.


Later,

Brian


----------



## warrenP

Those look great! Nice job!


----------



## HeyNow^

I see your secret now....reading Handyman Magazine....







That rag and Mother Earth News made me what I am today.


Maybe I missed it on a previous page, but how much did each sheet cost? How much do you think you have in each box? When I did my two boxes, I was surprised how much it ended up costing me. Partly because I used fluorescent lights etc. Wasn't cheap. Made me appreciate why the manufactured ones are so expensive.


Nice work there Bud!


----------



## jikkjack

Great job man. I think they turned out fantastic.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Each sheet was 30.00 (not factoring shipping). Here is the breakdown on costs: post 2941 .


FH is the only magazine I've subscribed to consistently for probably 10 years. I still have all those issues as well, neatly organized in my workshop.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BFauska* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the pictures look good. If they look better in real life then more power to you. Definately a well done project. Congrats.
> 
> 
> Later,
> 
> Brian



Thanks Brian. One more knocked out!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warrenP* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those look great! Nice job!



Thanks Warren!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great job man. I think they turned out fantastic.



Thanks Dude. I may get stuck going to another seven year old party on Saturday, but if not, I'll be by to check out your progress and rid you of some cold ones.


Sunday I'll be planted in front of the screen watching Da Bears.


Bud


----------



## nvarner

Those posterboxes look great Chinadog! I may have to copy your design. A Bear fan huh? I just want the Saints to go away ( written by a bitter Falcon's fan ) :-}}}


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nvarner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those posterboxes look great Chinadog! I may have to copy your design. A Bear fan huh? I just want the Saints to go away ( written by a bitter Falcon's fan ) :-}}}



Thanks, copy away. Been a Bears fan for some time, just had no good reason to admit it until this year. I'm still out on Grossman though, hopefully they'll make it to the big game. I give Vick one more year with the Falcons, unless he has a great season, I would expect him to be gone.


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> I'm still out on Grossman though, hopefully they're make it to the big game.



They need to make sure Cedric Benson and Thomas Jones touch the ball at least 35 times











> Quote:
> I give Vick one more year with the Falcons, unless he has a great season, I would expect him to be gone.



Hey Bud, you guys sell some wierd water bottles down there in Atlanta. Any chance of getting some shipped to Chicago?










Nice job on the lightboxes.


Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, you guys sell some wierd water bottles down there in Atlanta. Any chance of getting some shipped to Chicago?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job on the lightboxes.
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott, thanks.


Yeah, what a dumbass. Reminds me of the time in college where we'd wrap beer cans with "color form" type labels so the beer would look like a can of Mountain Dew or Pepsi. Between flippin' off the fans, smuggling marijuana, and other things, its just a matter of time. Oh and his little brother is a whole other time bomb.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, you guys sell some wierd water bottles down there in Atlanta. Any chance of getting some shipped to Chicago?



ROFLMAO


----------



## mastiff34

GO BEARS !!! great work bud! GO BEARS !!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastiff34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> GO BEARS !!! great work bud! GO BEARS !!!



Thanks (GO BEARS!!!) for the reply!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I just ordered the Toshiba HD-A2 from Amazon. Great price and a lot cheaper than best buy even with the coupons. I went round and round with ordering a XBOX 360 add on, Toshiba, waiting for a dual player, etc. I finally just pulled the trigger. Our older Sony DVD player is acting weird, so I figured I'd move the Panasonic upstairs and get the stand alone Toshiba.


I don't plan on buying any content, just renting through Netflix. I figure this way if BluRay wins, I don't have too much invested and can put the player on eBay. Feeling a little more confident on HDDVD now that the porn industry endorsed it!










Oh and there is a three free HDDVDs deal with he purchase of any Toshiba player through 2/28/07. Info here:
http://www.thelookandsoundofperfect....fer_advert.pdf 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I picked up a pool table light and installed it. They charged me twice for it, but thats another story. It looks a few inches too high to me, but based on the recommendations online (min 40" above table), its suppose to be about right. I may drop it another 4 inches. It's currently at 42".


So here is my loaner table:


















I'm pulling out the damn TV today, it actually died last week anyway. I had it fixed a few years ago. I think I paid 2300 for that puppy back in '93. Makes me sick to my stomach now. Oh well, plans were to put a flat screen in the bar anyway. Ben Harper, you still out there?


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Hey man,


looks great. for some reason I thought there was going to be a football game today but it looks like they are both tomorrow. anyhow - you can still come by today and have some beers to check out the new PS3 if you want.


I have some running around to do this morning but will be back around 2 this afternoon.


Jason


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, you guys sell some wierd water bottles down there in Atlanta. Any chance of getting some shipped to Chicago?



His name *is* Bud.











Bud, I agree that the pool table light looks too high. Most of the ones I have seen seem to have been hung much lower. Low enough so that when you are standing, no direct light from the bulb can hit you in the eye.


I prefer a stained glass pool table lights. Course, my family owned a stained glass shop for 20 years, so I'm kinda partial. Mexico and China is producing a lot of the stained glass lamps for cheap and selling them in the US now. The ones from China are actually a pretty good quality. But don't look in a billiard supply for the light. They won't even offer you complimentary lube when they stick it to you. In some outlet malls, there are outlet lighting shops. Those shops will usually carry the stained glass lamps imported from China. And their prices are really good for the amount of work that goes into making one. Probably cheaper than the cost of materials if you were to build one yourself. The ones from Mexico are usually sold in Lowes and Home Depot for a reasonable price for the work you get. Definitely cheaper than other lighting places will sell it.


----------



## chinadog

Toxarch,


I agree and will drop it some. At least its up. I've seen some nice stained glass ones. My neighbors wife asked me if I wanted theirs, she said she paid a lot for it. I wanted to match the other fixtures I installed down there. I do like them though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Jason,


Hope you got my PM. I just didn't get a chance to call. My cell battery was getting low with my brother and sisters calling. Justin was looking forward to checking out the PS3.... maybe next weekend if you're around.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Who is going to get post 3000? Me! Oh, and GO BEARS!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud, the poster boxes came out great. I'll have to try and schedule another trip the Atlanta office so can try out that pool table.










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Thanks and sounds good to me. Just let me know.


Bud


----------



## mastiff34

Looks like a blizzard !!! Go BEARS !!!


----------



## mastiff34

btw, awesome Pool table...



Go BEARS !!! hehehe


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


The poster frames came out great!! With all these little upgrades you've been doing, have you had a chance to just enjoy the finished basement?!


I know how it is though, just when you think you're done, you think of something else that would finish off the space.


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Long time, no post. Thanks. Always something to do. I'm down there every night though watching something. Kids are down there now watching "Cheaper by the Dozen 2". I like to stay busy, so I may have to invent some new things to do!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I really like the look of the lights over the pool table. It really brings ALL of your space together.


I always enjoy reading about your progress.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Randy. If I was motivated today, I'd make my cue rack, but it's raining and cold and the game will be on shortly so it can wait another week. I'd like to get it done to protect the cues from the kids and the wall from the cues! I still need to finish up the kids pinewood derby car today as well.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still need to finish up the kids pinewood derby car today as well.



Please posts pics. I'd love to see what you do this year. We may skip the derby-days with my daughter this year -- just too much other stuff to do.


----------



## mastiff34

Hey Bud !!!


B


E


A


R


S


BEARS BEARS BEARS !!!! It's our year baby !!!!


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> His name is Bud.




Um........yes, I know











> Quote:
> Looks like a blizzard !!!



Felt like a blizzard too!! Used the snowblower twice in one day.



Bears vs. Colts!! YES!! Go Bears!! Hope the Blazing Ridge Cinema is rocking on the 4th!! Enjoy the game Bud!



Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please posts pics. I'd love to see what you do this year. We may skip the derby-days with my daughter this year -- just too much other stuff to do.



Will do.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Great AFC game last night. I'd rather have the Colts than the Pats, Brady can be dangerous. I hope the Bears bring that defense to the Bowl, they'll need it.


We're having some people from out of town for the big game this year. Should be a great game.


Go Bears!


Bud


----------



## mastiff34

Yah, I much rather have the colts then the patriots as well. Man it's gonna be a good game, I hope everyone trash talks the bears d for the next 2 weeks, so they light them up on Sunday !!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please posts pics. I'd love to see what you do this year. We may skip the derby-days with my daughter this year -- just too much other stuff to do.



Steve,


Here's what we've done so far. At the moment its about 4 oz, need to add some additional weight. I'm no sure how accurate my scale is, I'll have to weight for the official weigh in this weekend before adding too much more.











Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Here's what we've done so far. At the moment its about 4 oz, need to add some additional weight. I'm no sure how accurate my scale is, I'll have to weight for the official weigh in this weekend before adding too much more.



Not too shabby Bud! Did you use black electrical tape for the stripe? If so, very resourceful










On the weight -- I went to the Post Office and used their "self-serve" digital scale. It gave the same results as the "official" scale used at the race. I just went slightly under weight and used some lead stick-on weights when I knew the official weight. Since they are so soft, you can trim them down with regular wire cutters to get the exact weight you need. Good luck in the race!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not too shabby Bud! Did you use black electrical tape for the stripe? If so, very resourceful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the weight -- I went to the Post Office and used their "self-serve" digital scale. It gave the same results as the "official" scale used at the race. I just went slightly under weight and used some lead stick-on weights when I knew the official weight. Since they are so soft, you can trim them down with regular wire cutters to get the exact weight you need. Good luck in the race!



Its got a few coats on it. It was originally the metallic gold I used on the letters for the ticket window. I also taped it up and used black paint for tinted windows. My son decided later on green, so we repainted it with green oil based paint. He actually came up with the black electrical tape. I started calling him McGiver, but he didn't get it.







I drilled holes in the sides above the rear wheels and inserted some lead weights, also cover with black electrical tape. I'll have to go check out the post office this week, thanks for that idea.


Bud


----------



## Mark P

Bud,

was it you that installed ceiling speakers somewhere in your home or/and theater?


If so, what model # and an honest opinion of how they perform musically, hometheater wise I dont really care for now but do want some nice musical speakers in a very nice glorified "hotel room" home I am working on. The place I went to yesterday to get all the appliances had M&Ks or something to that effect and of course they said they sound wonderful but Im just wondering. and how much clearance do they need since I am altering the entire home to carhedral ceilings and nows the time to run wiring! Also did the recommened they not be used in a cathedral ceiling?


----------



## chinadog

Mark, I used Sonance 622TRs for my surrounds (installed in the soffits). While I use the room for primarily for movies and HDTV, I have listened to some DVD Audio discs I have (had an Acura TL before I bought my truck) and they sound great to me. I went with the 622s based on a recommendation from Ascend to match my 340s. I'd buy them again under the same circumstances. I think they're great for the price. The spec sheet and instructions are attached.


General info here:
http://www.sonance.com/subs/products...ame=In-Ceiling 


Here are some reviews that mention the 622s:

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-10914_7-6246921-1.html 
http://www1.electronichouse.com/article/686.html 
http://homesmarthome.net/casestudies_4.htm 


I bought them through ABT electronics (remove the "-"s in the link below)
http://www.a-b-telectronics.com/scri...pping&id=17071 


I'm sure you can find them cheaper as well.


Bud

 

04symic_ds.pdf 185.328125k . file

 

newsym_ic_im.pdf 421.7431640625k . file


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - You need an index on your thread










Just spent ages trying to locate those 'thingamagigers' you used on your bar overhang . Had a brain freeze on thier name so search was useless. Finally found them and the link to the 'Corbels'










Need to use something like them in my bar overhead display / thingamajig










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


Not a bad idea, actually. I can go back to the first post maybe and edit it to add the major sections of the build, links to materials and info. Might take an hour or two, but if it helps, it'll be worth it. Hmmmm.....


On the corbels, they had some good stuff, not the cheapest things, but it really adds something to the detail.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Toshiba HD-A2 arrived today! I came home a little early and hooked it up, pretty simple. I played a little bit of Braveheart and tested Finding Nemo, but that was about it. I know there is discussions on a firmware upgrade, but I have to figure out where I'm at first. So far with regular DVDs it looks great. I have a few Netflix HDDVD rentals coming next week, but I may be shopping for a flat screen this weekend and may pick one up to check it out.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - I'm happy to see you took the HD-DVD plunge. You're gonna love it.


----------



## jimfitz

I have the XBOX 360 addon and plan on picking up the HD-A2. HD-DVD is amazing!


Enjoy.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud - I'm happy to see you took the HD-DVD plunge. You're gonna love it.



I'm sure I will. Now to view some content! I just couldn't justify a BD player's cost. I have the 360 already, so the PS3 is out for a while as well. I'm not fond of using a game system for a DVD player either and the A2 was pretty reasonable through Amazon. I also needed a new DVD player for upstairs, so it made sense to me.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jimfitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the XBOX 360 addon and plan on picking up the HD-A2. HD-DVD is amazing!
> 
> 
> Enjoy.



Is there a reason you'll want both? Different systems perhaps?


Bud


----------



## jimfitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a reason you'll want both? Different systems perhaps?
> 
> 
> Bud



I have the 360 and HD Add-on in the kids playroom. The Toshiba is going to go with the main system.


What TV are you looking to purchase?



Jim


----------



## chinadog

Still out on the model. Here's the dilemma. I want something for my bar and has to be be HD. I'd like a 42, but could get away with a 37. It's nothing something that will get used a ton and its definitely not for primary use. I could go either LCD or Plasma, doesn't matter much. Not much ambient light, viewing probably weekends/nights for games, but I'm not huge sports nut either. I'd like to stay between 1000-1200 as well and I want it on the wall before the Superbowl. I just ordered a mount from monoprice.com even though I don't have the TV yet. Here is the mount I ordered.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


About a month ago I was looking at the Panasonic TH-42PX60U which I could have gotten for right around 1200. Rated well, good reviews everywhere. Now they're selling for closer to 1600. Best Buy and Circuit City had some priice wars going on at the time before Xmas and now they're not reducing their prices before the superbowl. *Remove the "-"s from the URL.* http://www.plasma-tv-buying-guide.co...th42px60u.html 


Yesterday I was looking at a 37" Sharp LC-37D40U LCD that I could get for about 1000.00 through an employee discount.
http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/lcdt...u-review.shtml 


I'm also thinking of just going with a cheaper brand. I may take a ride over to Brandsmart USA today and see what they have.



Bud


----------



## richh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still out on the model. Here's the dilemma. I want something for my bar and has to be be HD. I'd like a 42, but could get away with a 37. It's nothing something that will get used a ton and its definitely not for primary use. I could go either LCD or Plasma, doesn't matter much. Not much ambient light, viewing probably weekends/nights for games, but I'm not huge sports nut either. I'd like to stay between 1000-1200 as well and I want it on the wall before the Superbowl. I just ordered a mount from monoprice.com even though I don't have the TV yet. Here is the mount I ordered.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> About a month ago I was looking at the Panasonic TH-42PX60U which I could have gotten for right around 1200. Rated well, good reviews everywhere. Now they're selling for closer to 1600. Best Buy and Circuit City had some priice wars going on at the time before Xmas and now they're not reducing their prices before the superbowl. *Remove the "-"s from the URL.* http://www.plasma-tv-buying-guide.co...th42px60u.html
> 
> 
> Yesterday I was looking at a 37" Sharp LC-37D40U LCD that I could get for about 1000.00 through an employee discount.
> http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/lcdt...u-review.shtml
> 
> 
> I'm also thinking of just going with a cheaper brand. I may take a ride over to Brandsmart USA today and see what they have.
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Funny, just last night I installed a tv using that exact mount from Monoprice. Just like everything else there, very good quality at an exceptional price. Do you have a Coscto near you? The Vizio's they carry are decent . I was in a similar situation as you. I was looking for a HD flat screen; didn't have to be top notch as it was just for the bedroom. Ended up getting the 47" Vizio LCD.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, I do have one not far from Brandsmart. Maybe I'll pop in there and check to see what they have. Glad to hear the mount is decent!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud,


I think I have a connection for panny flat tv's. I will let you know Monday what the price of the model you posted would cost through me....


Jason


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I just bought two 37" LCDs from Costco for just UNDER $900 each. Can't beat them.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I think I have a connection for panny flat tv's. I will let you know Monday what the price of the model you posted would cost through me....
> 
> 
> Jason



Thanks dude. Ben is also looking into a few things. I get all these corp discounts with Panansonic, Sharp, Philips and Samsung and the prices still are not better than the sale prices.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I just bought two 37" LCDs from Costco for just UNDER $900 each. Can't beat them.



Our membership ran out and not sure where I put my damn card, so I didn't get there. Hit Best Buy, Circuit City, Brandmart and HHGregg. Still no decision yet.


What model did you get?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Vizio 37" (VX37L). We think it's a good value. Nothing out there is perfect...yet.


----------



## chinadog

OK, so first impressions of the Toshiba HD-A2 HD DVD player .


I didn't want to buy any HD DVDs at this point since I'd rent via Netflix, but ended up buying King Kong, The Mummy and Cinderella Man.







Best Buy has a great selection compared to Circuit City (I was in both today looking at TVs again).


It took me a whole five minutes to remove the other player and hookup the A2. I updated my Harmony remote in a few minutes and I was off and running.


So far it's impressive from a picture and audio perspective. I watched half of King King today and about 1/2 hour of The Mummy. I watched MI:III the other night in SD. Even with SD DVDs, it seems to look better than my Panasonic DVDS97S.


Some folks had issues with firmware upgrades connecting to the Toshiba servers (has an ethernet port), but this came with the latest firmware. The updates to the firmware were related to HDMI-DVI connections and some other things in that space. I haven't had any issues since I'm running pure HDMI through the receiver and to the projector.


Overall I'm pretty happy with this unit, especially for the price.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so first impressions of the Toshiba HD-A2 HD DVD player .
> 
> 
> I didn't want to buy any HD DVDs at this point since I'd rent via Netflix, but ended up buying King Kong, The Mummy and Cinderella Man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Buy has a great selection compared to Circuit City (I was in both today looking at TVs again).
> 
> 
> It took me a whole five minutes to remove the other player and hookup the A2. I updated my Harmony remote in a few minutes and I was off and running.
> 
> 
> So far it's impressive from a picture and audio perspective. I watched half of King King today and about 1/2 hour of The Mummy. I watched MI:III the other night in SD. Even with SD DVDs, it seems to look better than my Panasonic DVDS97S.
> 
> 
> Some folks had issues with firmware upgrades connecting to the Toshiba servers (has an ethernet port), but this came with the latest firmware. The updates to the firmware were related to HDMI-DVI connections and some other things in that space. I haven't had any issues since I'm running pure HDMI through the receiver and to the projector.
> 
> 
> Overall I'm pretty happy with this unit, especially for the price.
> 
> 
> Bud



If its the same as my A1, the upscaling of std DVD is as good as I've seen.


----------



## Toxarch

Hey Bud, I saw this and thought you might be interested.


HANNspree Xv 37 inch Widescreen LCD HDTV - 37 - JT02-37U1-000G - 3 HDMI Inputs!!
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...70&dcaid=17070 

Resolution 1366 x 768 WXGA+


Never heard of the brand, but $700 after rebates makes it worth a look. 3 HDMI inputs might be nice too, but I imagine you're probably planning a single cable from the theater for the TV in the bar.


----------



## chinadog

That is a pretty good price! I can get a 37" Sharp for about 1K after shipping. Thanks for the link. Waiting on Ben and Jason's responses and I'll make a decision today. I think my mount will be here today, too.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I think buy.com has 10% off for 1st time customers, and routinely e-mails me 7 - 10% off coupons if I go a couple months without buying anything. If you go that route might be worth a phone call.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


I've been using them for years and get those coupons on occasion as well. They typically always gave good pricing, especially electronics.


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Just a warning about their coupons. If you get one in your e-mail, be sure to use it when you purchase from them. Yeah, I know, why would you buy something without the coupon if it's available? The point is, I have noticed that buy.com raises their prices when they send out those coupons and then lowers their prices after the coupons expire. So you aren't really saving 10% when they send out a 10% coupon. On the 24th, they sent a 7% coupon for existing customers and the coupon expires on the 31st. So, you could actually get that 37" TV for $637.


I did a quick search on that TV company. Seems they are a small company from Cali and they have two company stores there. I didn't look any more than that to see if they were rebranded TVs or anything like that.


Edit: Calculated wrong total cost after coupon.


----------



## chinadog

OK, so here's the decision. I spoke with Ben and he's hooking me up with a slightly used (not sure if the power was even turned on) * LG 42LC2D * for the bar. I was able to get it in the price range I was looking at. We're going to pick it up on Thursday. Thanks for everyone's help and recommendations.


I called Comcast tonight and tomorrow I will be heading over to their office to exchange a digital box for another HD box.


My Monoprice.com TV mount arrived today as well. I'm shooting for a Saturday install, unless I can get it done Friday night.


Bud


----------



## Mark P




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark, I used Sonance 622TRs for my surrounds (installed in the soffits). While I use the room for primarily for movies and HDTV, I have listened to some DVD Audio discs I have (had an Acura TL before I bought my truck) and they sound great to me. I went with the 622s based on a recommendation from Ascend to match my 340s. I'd buy them again under the same circumstances. I think they're great for the price. The spec sheet and instructions are attached.
> 
> 
> General info here:
> http://www.sonance.com/subs/products...ame=In-Ceiling
> 
> 
> Here are some reviews that mention the 622s:
> 
> http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-10914_7-6246921-1.html
> http://www1.electronichouse.com/article/686.html
> http://homesmarthome.net/casestudies_4.htm
> 
> 
> I bought them through ABT electronics (remove the "-"s in the link below)
> http://www.a-b-telectronics.com/scri...pping&id=17071
> 
> 
> I'm sure you can find them cheaper as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,

thank you so much! Sorry I took so long to reply but Im doing what we like to call a Super Slam where we take a very small bungalow in a less than fortunate neighborhood and completely gut it, Vault and cathedral the ceilings and completely restore the interior while keeping the exterior fairly normal except landscaping and use it as a "hotel" for a year or two while working on another project and when its done, the boss donates the home to a hard working family thats fell on hard times sort of like that show on TV except we've been doing it for 7 years. This one has been the best ever, what a transformation, I wish I had taken before and afters but this was a first in forgeting my camera ( along with Framing nailers and Tile saws) seriously scatter brained this go-around.


Do you have to frame for these speakers or just hang in sheetrock?


----------



## chinadog

Mark, no problem. Pretty cool what you're doing. Sounds like a hell of a boss.


I just hung them in the sheetrock. Pretty easy install. They do offer a MDF enclosure, but had a hard time finding them online. I had to contact an authorized installer to find them and they were too much. I thought about making them, but decided just to go without them. They also have new construction brackets, but not sure they're necessary.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so here's the decision. I spoke with Ben and he's hooking me up with a slightly used (not sure if the power was even turned on) * LG 42LC2D * for the bar. I was able to get it in the price range I was looking at. We're going to pick it up on Thursday. Thanks for everyone's help and recommendations.
> 
> 
> I called Comcast tonight and tomorrow I will be heading over to their office to exchange a digital box for another HD box.
> 
> 
> My Monoprice.com TV mount arrived today as well. I'm shooting for a Saturday install, unless I can get it done Friday night.
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


Is the Monoprice mount the one for $26 bucks? If so, I was wondering about the build quality of that mount. That is a very good price!.


Thanks,


----------



## SVonhof

Randy, I have not seen the mounts from Monoprice and don't know which one Bud has, but my buddy needed some cables recently. I told him about Monoprice and he placed an order and since he was going to be in the area for a meeting, decided to stop by the store and pick up his cables. He told me that the flat panel mounts that they have are very good quality for the money and when he does decide to pull the trigger for a tv for the bedroom (he has been talking about it for a year), he will get the mount from them.


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy, I have not seen the mounts from Monoprice and don't know which one Bud has, but my buddy needed some cables recently. I told him about Monoprice and he placed an order and since he was going to be in the area for a meeting, decided to stop by the store and pick up his cables. He told me that the flat panel mounts that they have are very good quality for the money and when he does decide to pull the trigger for a tv for the bedroom (he has been talking about it for a year), he will get the mount from them.




Thanks Scott. They look like the ones that Costco has for close to $100. I have had nothng but good experiences from Monoprice. I just got a HDMI cable that is as thick as a garden hose from them.


----------



## chinadog

Solid mount. I got the tilting one for 26.00. I pulled it out of the box last night and it'll work just fine. You won't bet that price anywhere and holds up to like 165 pounds or something ridiculous. I'll take some pictures of it tonight.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

That's the one, Bud. I'm thinking about buying a couple of them. Very a nice price.


----------



## ebr

I am constantly amazed by monoprice. Top notch quality stuff at dirt cheap prices. I keep waiting for him to go out of business, but he just keeps on comin' with it.


----------



## chinadog

Either that or they'll put some others out of business.... the name Monster comes to mind! Doubtful, but interesting nonetheless!


----------



## W00lly

Monoprice rocks


----------



## tonyjambo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Solid mount. I got the tilting one for 26.00. I pulled it out of the box last night and it'll work just fine. You won't bet that price anywhere and holds up to like 165 pounds or something ridiculous. I'll take some pictures of it tonight.
> 
> 
> Bud



I mounted my Samsung HPS4253 on this mount and its rock solid - its not pretty and its a litle chunky - 3" from the walll to the back of the TV but for $26 .... unbeatable


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Monoprice rocks



Absolutely! They've saved me several hundreds of dollars for my HT/basement project. We've not only given them our business, but others as well. How many times have you recommended them? I've recommended them three times in the last two days alone! Glad to see a business that gets it .. great product at a great price. You offer that and people pay attention. In fact, I think there are some people out there that think its either a scam, discontinued stuff, low quality,etc. I was a little reluctant the first time I ordered anything....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tonyjambo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mounted my Samsung HPS4253 on this mount and its rock solid - its not pretty and its a litle chunky - 3" from the walll to the back of the TV but for $26 .... unbeatable



Chunky... I like that! That's for the tilting version. Not sure if the flat mount sticks out that much, but I don't see a flat mount option on the site ... or I missed it.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely! They've saved me several hundreds of dollars for my HT/basement project. We've not only given them our business, but others as well. How many times have you recommended them? I've recommended them three times in the last two days alone! Glad to see a business that gets it .. great product at a great price. You offer that and people pay attention. In fact, I think there are some people out there that think its either a scam, discontinued stuff, low quality,etc. I was a little reluctant the first time I ordered anything....
> 
> 
> Bud



Well, I reccomended them at least four times in the past month... No, wait, more, since I posted the info to two different forums outside of AVS!


----------



## relsah

Bud,


You did a wonderful job on you HT construction.


By the way, where did you get your undermount bar sink?


Thanks,

Rel


----------



## chinadog

Hey Rel, thanks and welcome. The sink came from the granite company I used. Made sense to me to get it through them since they had to cut the whole for it anyway, The manufacturer of the sink is * Eclipse Stainless *, which I had never heard of before. There is PDF on the homepage for the catalog, the model I got was the *1815 Tilden.* Its 18.5" x 15", 18 gauge with a bowl depth of 7 inches.


If you google Eclipse Stainless, you get quite a few links in your interested in it. So far we're pretty happy with it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've recommended them three times in the last two days alone!



... plus one now makes four times in the last two days!


Bud


----------



## relsah




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Rel, thanks and welcome. The sink came from the granite company I used. Made sense to me to get it through them since they had to cut the whole for it anyway, The manufacturer of the sink is * Eclipse Stainless *, which I had never heard of before. There is PDF on the homepage for the catalog, the model I got was the *1815 Tilden.* Its 18.5" x 15", 18 gauge with a bowl depth of 7 inches.
> 
> 
> If you google Eclipse Stainless, you get quite a few links in your interested in it. So far we're pretty happy with it.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks for the quick response.


Would you think it would be cheaper to get granite from a local dealer rather than from HD?


----------



## chinadog

Likely, but you'd have to check around locally. One benefit to the big stores like HD is the funky financing (no payments/interest for 12 mos), coupons (10% your first purchase), etc. It pays to get a few quotes at least from the local guys. Sometimes the big stores are not worth the hassle... like the carpet issues I had. There are pros/cons to both.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Bud - When you build your MAME machine - Are you going to use an old 27" CRT TV or LCD Monitor?


I am planning to build one for my game room too. I am going to be *copying* the X-Arcade Game Rig. You can view pictures of it in the link below.


This Link will take you to the ultimate controller for your MAME machine.


They also sell adapters for other game systems if you are interested.


When are you going to start the rig?


----------



## chinadog

I think I'm going to build my poker table next. I have some other side projects as well. Tool shed, crown molding in the kids room, paint upstairs, might build some valances, etc. If I had to guess, it'll be the fall the earliest.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So today is the day. Later this morning Ben is coming buy with the new LG and we'll mount that puppy. I'll take some shots during the install and post.
*GO BEARS!*


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

I'm anxious to see how that Monoprice mount works out for you. Hope ever thing goes well for you guys.


----------



## mastiff34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So today is the day. Later this morning Ben is coming buy with the new LG and we'll mount that puppy. I'll take some shots during the install and post.
> *GO BEARS!*
> 
> 
> Bud



GO BEARS !!!, I BELIEVE !!!


----------



## chinadog

Here are the shots from the LG 42LC2D install Ben and I did yesterday. Thanks again Ben! The hard part was running the extra outlet to the mount... it wasn't the location, it took us a few tries to fish the wire from the outlet installed right underneath. The LCD is connected to a Motorola DCT6412 III via HDMI. I also tied the audio into one of my receivers in the rack so the audio can play via the TV itself, the in-ceiling speakers in the bar and/or gameroom. I also got my IR working to the rack from the bar finally.



























Here are a few shots of the TV installed. The mount is a tilting mount, so its a little farther off the wall than I would have hoped, but I'll get a flat mount and/or maybe even recess it into the wall.


























I should have turned the flash off for this picture.









*GO BEARS!*


Bud


----------



## Toxarch

Nicely done. A recessed plug might have worked a little better than duplex.


----------



## jimfitz

Looks great Bud.


One suggestion....I would shorten those lights by about 6 inches to raise them up so they don't hang in front of the panel.


I know, every has an opinion......just my 2 pennies...


Either way, it looks like great work.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toxarch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nicely done. A recessed plug might have worked a little better than duplex.



Thought about it, but I don't think the clock outlets are old work only new. Hence and old work box. Poor planning on my part for not putting in a clock outlet when I wired everything, although I probably would have put it in the wrong place anyway.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jimfitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great Bud.
> 
> 
> One suggestion....I would shorten those lights by about 6 inches to raise them up so they don't hang in front of the panel.
> 
> 
> I know, every has an opinion......just my 2 pennies...
> 
> 
> Either way, it looks like great work.



I'm struggling with this. If your at the bar on a barstool, it's well above your line of sight. The problem with these lights are they come with sections of threaded pipe,each about 12". So I'd have to lose one whole section, which would make them too high, I think. Another option would be to replace them with something else more flexible. Also, I'm 6'4", so the camera angle is a little higher it makes the lights more pronounced. I still think you're right, about 6" less would be perfect.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Sorry Bud, but I just had to say it...

Go Colts!


----------



## Winkelmann

ebr,

I hate to be the _bearer_ of bad news, but, it's raining in Miami and that means defense. Dah Bears!


----------



## accts4mjs

Bud,


Take one of the threaded sections to a hardware store and get the matching die. Then you can just cut the pole to length and rethread it with the die. Not much room for error, but should be a piece of cake for someone who did such a great job on his room










Mike


----------



## Zinema

You have a really nice bar there - good job on the LCD installation!

So there are only the stools missing - then you could have a cold beer and enjoy your great work.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zinema* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have a really nice bar there - good job on the LCD installation!
> 
> So there are only the stools missing - then you could have a cold beer and enjoy your great work.



Mike,


Thanks, but believe me, I don't need a bar stool to have a cold one! I actually brought the ones downstairs form the kitchen for the game last night. Hopefully I'll be able to get the barstools soon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Take one of the threaded sections to a hardware store and get the matching die. Then you can just cut the pole to length and rethread it with the die. Not much room for error, but should be a piece of cake for someone who did such a great job on his room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,


I actually have some spares I'll have to dig up from the bowels of my workshop. Time to clean out that area anyway. Thanks for the tip.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry Bud, but I just had to say it...
> 
> Go Colts!



Well, the game was good even though the Bears lost. Pretty exciting first quarter.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Winkelmann* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ebr,
> 
> I hate to be the _bearer_ of bad news, but, it's raining in Miami and that means defense. Dah Bears!



I think the Bears defense just got warn down. Grossman was pitiful, so the defense was on the field continuously. It'll be interesting to see his fate next year.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So my wife goes to me yesterday during the big game, "Do these TVs come in smaller sizes?". I say "Sure, but why?" and she replies, "We could get another one and put this one in our bedroom!".










I think I've created a monster!


Bud


----------



## mastiff34

Man........ The poor defense just couldn't get off the field and when they did, grossman just sent them back on again....


I hope we manage to keep Briggs and Lovie....


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I was cleaning up my workshop and with some of the scrap alder I had left over from the bar I decided to make a "Now Showing" DVD stand for the counter in the concession area. Here are a few pictures.



















I'm going to paint it black and try and find some small wooden letters to do the "Now Showing" thing. Probably paint them in gold. I think I need to hit a crafts shop to find them probably. The brief time I looked this AM, I had no luck.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

This morning I order a few mini mylars so I can build my backlit mylar box. Here are the ones I picked up on ebay today. I'll probably work on that in another week or so.



























I've got a few options where to put this, I'll probably put it in my concession area.


I also want to build something, either shelving for the wall or a tiered set of shelves for the counter to put candy for movie nights.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I like the Monoprice mount, but bought a new mount for the new LCD in the bar today. The Monoprice mount is a tilt mount and its too far off the wall for my location. They don't carry a flat mount as far as I could tell. So I picked up a Peerless Flat Wall Mount - Model PF660P . Got a pretty good price for it at Best Price Mounts . With shipping, came to about 65.00. With expedited shipping on the Monoprice mount, came out to about the same!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like the Monoprice mount, but bought a new mount for the new LCD in the bar today. The Monoprice mount is a tilt mount and its too far off the wall for my location. They don't carry a flat mount as far as I could tell. So I picked up a Peerless Flat Wall Mount - Model PF660P . Got a pretty good price for it at Best Price Mounts . With shipping, came to about 65.00. With expedited shipping on the Monoprice mount, came out to about the same!
> 
> 
> Bud



Sounds like you are going to get a great mount. We are going to have to get a mount in the bedroom that allows the wife to move the LCD 90 degrees so she can see it from the bathroom. I have one in the bar area that works well but it is on a smaller TV.


How much space from the wall are you going to gain from the new mount?


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


TV to wall with new mount is 1.18". The old mount is 3" from the TV to the wall. Since I have to walk by it to get a bear, every inch helps. I''m considering recessing it into the wall as well, but have to think through it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Where did you get your foot rail on your bar?


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0



Bud, nice and simple! I like it.


----------



## scottjohnson

Hey chinadog...good clean work and very impressive. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. Yeah Colts............just kidding I hate sports.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, nice and simple! I like it.



Thanks, Scott. I didn't even pull out the brad nailer, everything is just glued. Pretty simple is right! I did find some 1" letters, but need to see if they small enough to work.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottjohnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey chinadog...good clean work and very impressive. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. Yeah Colts............just kidding I hate sports.



Hey Scott, thanks!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> 
> Where did you get your foot rail on your bar?
> 
> 
> Bud




I bought my rails and fittings from here


----------



## chinadog

Randy, thanks for the link. Looks like some great prices, but not sure I'm gonna go with brass yet.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Decisions, decisions....I was on the fence for a long time..was going to build a foot rest/shelf....I'm glad I went with brass....nice accent. I have dealt with Superior Products for years and they have done me well.


Good luck Bud.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, I was considering Satin Stainless from Kegworks , not building anything. Just haven't figured it out.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Same here bud - as appliances, sink etc are all stainless steel also looking at a stainless steel foot rest.


Got same nice bar accesseories on that site.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## HeyNow^

I have seen 2 inch diameter polished stainless steel for $1.75 per inch. $126 for 6 foot piece. Satin SS is $1.35 per inch $97.20 per 6 ft piece.


Barproducts.com is where I get most of my bar accessories. They have better prices than Superior.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

I'm planning satin stainless for my bar rail and I plan on going to the source. Lawrence metals. At their site the 2 inch SS is $10/ ft. up to 12 ft.

http://www.lawrencemetal.com/product...?basemodel=920


----------



## cfmustang

Actually, I have been looking to order up some brushed stainless steel rails for my bar too. All I could find was Kegworks, but now there are a few options. Cool.


----------



## chinadog

Big, does Lawrence Metal have all the end caps and brackets as well? Not obvious from first glance. I need 135 angle fittings...


Bud


----------



## sri777

Hi Bud,


Thanks for the poster box details. Nice soultion.


I have a stained glass that I am installing on the columns on either side of the theater screen. Similar to your poster boxes, I am planning to illuminate the stained glass from behind. However, my problem is once I turn on the back light, I can pretty much see through the stained glass.


To solve, I am thinking about using the same milky white plexiglass that you are using for your poster boxes for a) solving the see through issue b) act as the light diffuser.


considering your experience with this material, do you think it can solve the above issue?


thanks in advance

srini


----------



## chinadog

Srini,


I would think it would work for you, although you don't mention what sort of light are you using? I would think that would be a factor. Rope light is more spread out over the service. If you put a single bulb in, it'll help but there may be hot spots.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

New Peerless mount arrived yesterday. I'll post some pictures once I get it installed.


Bud


----------



## sri777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Srini,
> 
> 
> I would think it would work for you, although you don't mention what sort of light are you using? I would think that would be a factor. Rope light is more spread out over the service. If you put a single bulb in, it'll help but there may be hot spots.
> 
> 
> Bud




Thanks Bud.


I originally thought of using flood lights from above and below but after looking at your design, it suddenly reminded me that i have 100' rope light spool sitting in my basement. I am going to use it in the same manner you did.


thanks

srini


----------



## sri777

Bud,


Also, a long back you helped me by answering questions about your automation system using Buffallo IR receivers and Powerlinc controller and Harmony 880.


I am happy to report that I copied your design and very soon I am hoping it all be functional in my theater room.


thanks

srini


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sri777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bud.
> 
> 
> I originally thought of using flood lights from above and below but after looking at your design, it suddenly reminded me that i have 100' rope light spool sitting in my basement. I am going to use it in the same manner you did.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> srini



If you're using rope light with the diffuser, it'll should help hide the lights, assuming you've got some space between the diffuser and the lights. I did not test the diffuser/lights without the poster in place however, but as you can see from the photos I posted, there are no hotspots.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sri777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Also, a long back you helped me by answering questions about your automation system using Buffallo IR receivers and Powerlinc controller and Harmony 880.
> 
> 
> I am happy to report that I copied your design and very soon I am hoping it all be functional in my theater room.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> srini



I do recall. Let me know if you have any questions and how you make out.


Bud


----------



## sri777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did not test the diffuser/lights without the poster in place however, but as you can see from the photos I posted, there are no hotspots.
> 
> 
> Bud



That is what my concern is..i am wondering in your case is it the poster that is hiding the lights and not the diffuser?


in my case, my stained glass is pretty much transparent when directly put infront of light source. So, diffuser must help prevent seeing the lights..


thanks

srini


----------



## chinadog

Do you have something that can act as a diffuser, like a piece of wax paper? This way you can put it up against the stained glass and hold it up to a light to get an idea.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I had the day off today and I was going to re-frame my concession sign I bought on ebay. The frame actually warped. Upon trying to pull the sign from the frame, I thought I'd just make a new one. I wasn't in love with the literal "cut and paste" look of it. As you might recall, it looks like this:











I took some of the ideas and refined them some and came up with this in a 24"x36" sign done in photoshop:











Now I just need to get it printed and frame it. I have the PSD file saved as well, if anyone wants me to create a jpeg or wants the PSD file, just let me know (PM me your email address).


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looks great. Excellent work dude.


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday I worked on my candy dilemma. I was thinking about a counter display, something acrylic, but decided I might as well use the wall space above the counter for something. I ended up building a set of small shelves (18 x 33.5 x 3.5) to hang on the wall to hold the goodies. Made it our of scrap alder from the bar (the gift that keeps giving). Nothing fancy as you can see, but does the job and keeps the kiddies snatching everything in sight.



















I'll hang my new sign above the candy shelves once I get it printed and framed.


Here's the DVD stand finished. I used gold letter stickers from Michaels. The letters I bought online are too big, but will use them on my mylar light box.











Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, I work with a guy that has a printing business that he runs on the side. He says he charges $5 a sq. ft. for printing on vinyl, you want me to find out from him if he can do it for you? He may need a different file format though as he was talking about needing something other than raster to make things larger without the quality dropping too bad.


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


I appreciate that. I'm going to check with Kinkos one morning on the way to/from work this week. If that doesn't work out, then yes, I'd be interested. Give me a couple of days. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great. Excellent work dude.



I can make you a "Sea My Johnson" one for your bar if you'd like!










Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> I appreciate that. I'm going to check with Kinkos one morning on the way to/from work this week. If that doesn't work out, then yes, I'd be interested. Give me a couple of days. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bud



No problem Bud, I will wait on you to do anything.


----------



## chinadog

Not so exciting update... I didn't get to Kinkos this week yet to have my concession sign made, probably tomorrow. I also received two of the three movie mylars I bought off eBay, so I'll probably work on the mylar box this weekend.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I made a trip to Kinkos today. The closest one for me was like 15 miles away at Barrett Parkway, which is one of the busiest road on the weekend around. I typically avoid it at all costs, but no choice.


I gave the guy there the disk with the images on them and when he brought them up, he stood staring at it scratching his chin. I was like "You're scratching your chin a lot, is there a problem?" and he mumbled something about 7 copyright violations and that he could get in trouble for printing them.







I told him I understood and that I was replacing a sign that I had bought that had the same logos on them and told him it was for my person use only, not to be sold, etc, etc.


I told him I had built my home theater and it was on of my decorations for my concession area. He was like "really?" and started asking a bunch of questions. After talking to him a bit about HT, he said, "We're making only one of these, right?" Whew!







He was then concerned my images might come out blurry when I blew them up, but since I used a 24"x36" palette and didn't resize the logos at all, they looked fine at the actual size. So he said come back in two hours and proof one on paper, which meant I had to kill two hours with two kids.


After lunch, a trip to Hobby USA, Toys R Us and Walmart, I went back and WOW!







the proof came out great. It takes 24 hours to get it made into a sign and they use that glossy foam backed stuff. All for a mere 89.00







(my wife freaked when I said how much). Oh well. I probably could have it made on paper and glued it to my own foam board for less than half that, but hey, its a done deal. I'll post some pictures when I get them. Now to make the frame ....


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Looking good and I got to wondering if you would take Paypal for some Popcorn, Peanuts and Junior Mints? With your prices why should I go to the store? Do you offer free shipping?


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...I used a 24"x36" palette....get it made into a sign and they use that glossy foam backed stuff. All for a mere 89.00....
> 
> Bud



Well, the guy I work with would have done it for $30 plus shipping in a tube and you could have laid it out on some foamboard on your own. Oh well. It's a done deal and sounds like you will be satisfied with the results! That's all that matters!


----------



## chinadog

Scott, yeah, I know, I'm sure I could have done better, but I put too much effort driving down there, sitting in traffic, etc. I just wanted it over with. It was actually about the amount I expected, I just didn't do my homework. Maybe I'm getting less patient. I know I wasn't firing on all cylinders this AM!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking good and I got to wondering if you would take Paypal for some Popcorn, Peanuts and Junior Mints? With your prices why should I go to the store? Do you offer free shipping?










The Walmart prices for these are 88 cents, not sure how the Costco prices would be in comparison though. So I lose some money on the Junior Mints and Whoppers, but make a little on the other candy.







I actually didn't want it to have "1.00" going down the whole right side of the sign, so I just mixed it up some!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

The sign turned out great. It's pretty large, but just about the right size I think for that area. I also made a frame and rabbited around the inside to accept the sign. The sign is slightly bowed, so I'll have to figure out what to do about that. I'll probably need a backing of some sort.










Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Looks great Bud - I'll probably do something in a smaller scale.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## dynfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The sign turned out great. It's pretty large, but just about the right size I think for that area. I also made a frame and rabbited around the inside to accept the sign. The sign is slightly bowed, so I'll have to fig out what to do about that. I'll probably need a backing of some sort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



The sign and your entire project came out very nice! If the sign is going into a frame and is bowing perhaps you can use some glazing points to help hold it in place.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks great Bud - I'll probably do something in a smaller scale.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark, if you want the PSD, send me your email address and I'll send it off. The theater name is just a layer and can be easily swapped out, as are all the other images and text.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dynfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The sign and your entire project came out very nice! If the sign is going into a frame and is bowing perhaps you can use some glazing points to help hold it in place.



Thanks Wes. I didn't know what they were called until I saw your post, then I remembered, so thanks again. I should have enough depth in the groove to put the foam board sign and maybe back it with something a little stiff. I have some thin masonite that may do the trick, then use the glazing points as mentioned. Do you happen to know if Home Depot carries them? If not, I'm sure I can find them elsewhere or online. I have another coat of paint to do on the frame still, but with that black border, it makes the sign really pop. Pictures soon.


Bud


----------



## dynfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Wes. I didn't know what they were called until I saw your post, then I remembered, so thanks again. I should have enough depth in the groove to put the foam board sign and maybe back it with something a little stiff. I have some thin masonite that may do the trick, then use the glazing points as mentioned. Do you happen to know if Home Depot carries them? If not, I'm sure I can find them elsewhere or online. I have another coat of paint to do on the frame still, but with that black border, it makes the sign really pop. Pictures soon.
> 
> 
> Bud



Yeah they are common and should be available there or at any hardware store. Post pics. when you have it hung in place so we know how much to bring with us on movie night!


----------



## chinadog

OK, well, almost there on the concession sign. I finished up the frame, but still need to add the hangers and secure the sign in the frame. I found that 1/8" masonite was the perfect thickness, light enough and stiff enough to do the trick as a backer. To hold it in place temporarily, I just used duct tape!


Here are the before and after signs:










So a question here for the opinionated... there are three ways for me to store candy on my new shelves. 1) On its long edge so the box faces forward. 2) On the short edge so it stands on its end. 3) Flat. Which do you think is best? Here is a shot of it flat.










Any one have any opinions?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dynfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah they are common and should be available there or at any hardware store. Post pics. when you have it hung in place so we know how much to bring with us on movie night!



Cool, thanks, I'll look around for them.... oh and cash only, no plastic!


Bud


----------



## Rob_McArthur

Looks great Bud I vote:


1) On its long edge so the box faces forward


----------



## chinadog

Rob, thanks for the vote, that's the way I was leaning.


I was thinking there are a few other ways as well, combinations of those already listed. I could stack them flat and then use the top one and lie it on its long edge. Depending on the box though, it may not work correctly, some of these box bulge slightly.


Now you guys know I'm whacked, I'm fretting over how to stack candy! Could be worse I suppose, I could have it in a project plan...










Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Yes, Bud - I think you are really losing it now.


Maybe I should solicit opinions on what order I should display my British Beer glasses on may bar canopy










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## Toxarch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I should solicit opinions on what order I should display my British Beer glasses on may bar canopy



They should be in order of when the brewery opened of course.











Bud, I would vote on having the front of the box face out. Or stack some like in the second picture and then stack the rest with the face outward on top of the flat ones.


Also, you know you could always turn that price sign into a hinged door over the candy. Course that would only be if you wanted to hide the candy and were short of wall space.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I should solicit opinions on what order I should display my British Beer glasses on may bar canopy



I think they should be ordered by percentage of alcohol content, so there is no mistake which beer to reach for first.










Toxarch, good idea as a door, I think it would look sort of funny mounted that low. No need to hide it, otherwise I would have stuck the candy in the drawer.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A few updates. I hung my concession sign yesterday. I love the sign. What I don't like is the stacked vertical look of the candy shelves and the sign. If the sign was a different ratio (16:9 versus 4:3), I think it would have looked better together. I think I may buy a couple of the cheap counter candy racks now, pull the shelves down and lower the sign a little. I'll think about it some.


I worked on the front section of the mini mylar light box. I'll be build it similar to the poster boxes, except on a smaller scale. Need to paint the front section, then build and paint the back box. Pictures to come.


I also played around with a marquee today. There's another thread where another AVSer named volley had done his own backlit marquee. I decided to go ahead and give it a shot in Photoshop. Here's what I have so far. I plan on making other changes, but this gives you the idea. Its 24"x60" and I'd have to print it on something so I could backlight it. I'd build another box like the poster box on a larger scale and go from there.











Scott (SVonhof), think your printer buddy could do something that large?


For lettering, I'd probably print something on transparencies or buy the right size letters. I saw somewhere where you can get clear rails to hold them in place.

Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, maybe it's the firewall here at work, but I can't see your image. Maybe send me an image that is medium sized and a link to the photoshop file and I will see what Jeff says about it.


BTW, I know he can do the size.


----------



## chinadog

Scott, sent you a PM with a link. If you need the actually file, PM me your email and I'll send you that. Thanks dude!


Bud


----------



## AngelaC

You may be able to print your new marquee on mylar. This material is semi-translucent. Check with your local print shops.


----------



## HeyNow^

looks good Bud.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AngelaC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You may be able to print your new marquee on mylar. This material is semi-translucent. Check with your local print shops.



I talked to the guy at Kinkos the last week when I picked up my concession sign and he had something like mylar, it was on a roll that was like 36", but not sure what it was. Cost is going to be a factor here. He was going to dig into it some and get back to me. Mylar would be great, I could sandwich it between some plexi to give it some rigidity.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> looks good Bud.



Thanks Randy. First cut, will probably make some tweaks. Still need to figure out how to do 3d lettering, but not sure if I'd use it or not... got some other ideas as well.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, I talked to Jeff (sign guy) and he was wondering what format the file is (originally). Did it originate in Photoshop or something like Illustrator? If it is an Illistrator file, that is better as Phototshop rasterizes the image, which limits how large the image can get as the pixels just start to grow.


He is more than able to do this for you, he actually is going to check to see if he has any back-lit paper left at home (he does it out of his garage). and get back to me. He also said that he has the static-magnetic material he can print on for letters for the marquee as well, if you need those. There are lots of options here. Since I can't seem to see all your images, how close will this be to the lights? do you already have the box built for it because if it will see much heat, he may need to use different material or laminate it using different material.


----------



## chinadog

Scott, thanks for the update. I actually did it in Photoshop, but I originated it on 24" x 60" size, I didn't resize it up, although I did cut and paste some stuff. If he wants the Photoshop file versus the jpeg file (would recommend it), I can send that as well when I get home, then he can determine if there is any quality impact.


I have not build the backlit box yet. I would go the route as my poster light boxes and use rope light. The box should be somewhere around 2.5 - 3.0 " in depth.


I would definitely need the letters and probably a rail to hold them in place. I've found something online (don't have the link handy), but if he knows of something he can recommend, that would be great as well.


Thanks for your help with this.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

If you do the static-magnetic letters, you can skip the rail and just peel them off when you want to change them...


If you can post the PSD file somewhere and I can send him the link, that would be good.


BTW, he was saying it would probably be less than $60 to do it, depending on options, but it could also go down from there, depending on needs as well. For instance, if he doesn't need to laminate it with a particular material, the cost would go down.


----------



## chinadog

Great, sounds like a deal. I'll figure out how to get a link to the PSD file for him to take a look. I'll do that tonight.


Bud


----------



## larryep

i will take a box of milk duds and a large coke. do you take credit cards?


----------



## Winkelmann

Don't forget your student or... senior discount.


----------



## chinadog

Cash is king Larry.... I will take PayPal if sent in advance, of course.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Just sent you an email about the PSD file.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So here are the beginnings of my mini Mylar lightbox. Currently gluing up the slotted front frame to the outer box and the inside box. I still have to put the backing on the inner box and paint everything. I also need to add rails on the inside of the outer box to hold the mylars in place.



















Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

That picture reminds me that a Man can never own TOO many clamps. I'm always picking up a couple when I see a good deal.


----------



## chinadog

Big,


I buy them when I need them and the costs add up quick!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some variations of my marquee. I'm sure I'll have more. Anyone have any preferences of any other ideas? I'm trying to add some more color, although the read neon is a bear to swap colors out.






































Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's how the mini mylar box is looking at the moment. Both the inner and outer boxes are painted and ready to go. I went ahead and just scotch taped the mylars in place for not on the outer box. The first shot is without any back/lighting on the bar. I don't think I need a diffuser for it. I'm also considering adding "Now Showing" letters, not sure if I like them though. I have a place to mount the mylar box, but I need to put in a switched outlet before I can do it.




















Bud


----------



## jimfitz

I like how it looks with the letters.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Here is my take on your sign, I'm a fan of blue neon so the light strips are blue, I think using a gradient fill on the letters gives it a little more depth. The chasing lights at the bottom need to add more contrast, I'm not wild about the color I ended up with but just another idea for you:


----------



## swithey

Bud,


That looks really nice! Where did you download the mini-movie pics/titles for your box?


----------



## HeyNow^

Nice work NORM!


----------



## larryep

bud if you stick with red neon use red outline around white letters. i like how bigmouthdc's looks. use blue bulbs for the lower portion.


----------



## chinadog

Big, thanks for the ideas, I'll play a little this week on a new one. I'm got something else I'm thinking about as well, I my PM you for some info.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. Bought the mini mylars off ebay. I think they were like two bucks each.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


All you'd have to do is look at my workshop and you'd take back that comment!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Thanks. I'll play around with some other options there.


Bud


----------



## rmcveigh

Hi Bud,


Of the four images you posted here's the one I found most pleasing. Really, what I liked was the difference in color from "Blazing Ridge Cinema" and the lights around it.


Just my two cents,


-Ryan



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0


----------



## AVSRichard

If you are mocking these up in RGB mode, color will vary greatly when going to print in CMYK. Make sure you know what the CMYK values are before getting it printed.


Look good.


Richard


----------



## chinadog

Richard,


He's actually working on a sample print and I should have that shortly. It worked out well with the concession sign, so we'll see.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmcveigh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bud,
> 
> 
> Of the four images you posted here's the one I found most pleasing. Really, what I liked was the difference in color from "Blazing Ridge Cinema" and the lights around it.
> 
> 
> Just my two cents,
> 
> 
> -Ryan



Thanks Ryan!


Bud


----------



## erandmckay

Bud, your theater is increadible as is all the detail. Great job!


----------



## HeyNow^

Where the heck have you been, Bud? Go build something so you can entertain us....


----------



## jandawil

Bud that marquee you made looks awesome!! It's amazing how you find all this stuff let alone the time to make it. I was thinking about your HT this weekend. I'm in Alpharetta, Ga. through Tuesday taking care of one of our remote offices. Not too far from your place I gather.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erandmckay* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, your theater is increadible as is all the detail. Great job!



Hey, thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where the heck have you been, Bud? Go build something so you can entertain us....



Hey Randy,


Been sorta, kinda busy with work lately, had my brother in from out of town and I'll be take some vacation this week. Tomorrow morning I'm actually heading to the Masters to the Monday practice round. So I've been back burning stuff and will for at least another week. Still reading, not building!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud that marquee you made looks awesome!! It's amazing how you find all this stuff let alone the time to make it. I was thinking about your HT this weekend. I'm in Alpharetta, Ga. through Tuesday taking care of one of our remote offices. Not too far from your place I gather.



Hey Jon,


I received the sample from Scott's friend for the marquee and actually it got me thinking about a bigger marquee, may be a combination of Big's and the backlit marquee, sort of a half circle, two tiered thing for the concession area. I'm still thinking through it.


Alpharetta is about an hour away. You should have given me some heads up and maybe we could have hooked up! I was out of town yesterday, actually with some guys playing golf outside of Greenville, SC. It's called The Cliffs at Glassy Incredible place, built on top of a mountain. Click on the photo tour link. Anyway, how often do you get down this way?


Bud


----------



## jandawil

Hey Bud....that would have been cool to hook up. I'd love to see your whole basement and what you've done with it. I rarely get out here. Last time was about 5 years ago. I'm just doing a technology refresh on our office so they had to fly me out. Typically we just do everything remotely. It hadn't occurred to me to give you a heads up until now.


----------



## garykagan

Bud,


looking really nice, keep it up


gk


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Gary!


----------



## chinadog

For (fore) you golfers out there, he is how I spent my Monday. It was my 5th practice round over the years. Been to one Saturday round as well.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/masters-07/ 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Fortunately, this is NOT how I spent my Tuesday. I had the day off today, otherwise I would have been in the building. Some of these guys quoted I work with.

http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/04/03/cnn...ing/index.html 


Bud


----------



## HawkeyeJosh

Bud,


I really appreciate the comments that you've posted on my thread. Its a feel-good feeling to have someone that's got an awsome set-up such as yours to comment on mine.


I've been watching your thread for as long as I've been on AVSForum, and I've got to say that I'm more than impressed. I dont have much to offer as far as what I've done for how far along you are, and I think my msgs would get lost in the shuffle.


I'm moving along slowly on mine, but am anxious to keep moving. When I get to certain points, I'd like to steal some of your ideas and use them on my basement - with your persmission of course.


Keep up the awesome work!


----------



## chinadog

Josh, thanks. You'll get there. Feel free to pilfer whatever suits your needs!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Glad you are okay, Bud. Such a tragedy.


----------



## ebr

Yeah, the Tuesday thing sux, but the Monday thing rocks.


----------



## Toxarch

Bud, maybe you should go back to working at home again.


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys, just back from a short vacation to FL. Hope everyone had a nice Easter.


Toxarch, would be nice considering the traffic situation, but I enjoy the new job and wouldn't go back to the sweatshop I was in before.


Bud


----------



## nuczn

Hey Bud do those clock outlets hide a standard grounded plug pretty well? how close can something be as far as clearance? or how much of the plug does it hide/recess? hope fully that makes sense


----------



## chinadog

Nuczn,


They work pretty well, they're at least 1" deep. For grounded plugs, it'll give you the best clearance, but depends on the plug really.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Bud,


Long time no chat!!



How is that Buffalo Repeater working for ya?! Still holding up OK, or are you looking to upgrade?!


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sean,


Still working well for the HT room, no issues at all. No intention to upgrade at this point. Are you thinking about going Buffalo? Any upgrades on your side?


Bud


----------



## nuczn

thanks for the input on that plug Btw Bud! forgot to tell ya


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nuczn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks for the input on that plug Btw Bud! forgot to tell ya



No problem.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Holy crap, I just realized this thread hit 300K+ views!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jason, got your phone message. I'll give you a call tomorrow (Thurs). Been a little busy at work and with visitors.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got motivated to play around with Autostitch. Here are a few that turned out OK. I'll post more later.


Theater:










Equipment area:











Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Now that I am in my own project, I look at and think - wow that is a lot of staining. Top job Bud.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Thanks. Yes, it was and all worth it. It took quite a bit longer than expected, due to wait time between coats, poly, etc. Directly behind the open door is the door to the back of the equipment closet.


Bud


----------



## Zinema

Bud,

if you want to get good results from AutoStitch making a panorama view of your front screen wall - project an image on your screen!

I have played with it for 2 evenings and found that the white screen gives AutoStitch some headache when joining the images. Once you project something on it the software will produce great results...


----------



## chinadog

Mike, thanks for the tip, I'll have to try it out.


Bud


----------



## mhallida

Bud,


I LOVE your theater, it really makes me want to sell my $1M shoe box in CA and move to a state with basements for a fraction of the cost... I hate the cost of sunshine at times.


I was wondering, did you ever consider putting in bear on draft? I would love to have a Newcastle Brown Ale Kegerator or something. I bet you could put in a nice set, maybe Bass and Guniness, got to love those Black n' Tans....


Has anyone else done that?


Matthew


----------



## chinadog

Hey Matthew, thanks. When I put the house up for sale, I'll ping ya.










I'm still considering beer on draft. One of the reasons I built the closet behind to bar was to hide the beer fridge. I just haven't had enough time to do my home work and git her done. I thought ahead and at least put an outlet in the closet!










If I have a chance this weekend I'll try and do some more Autostitch pictures. I want to do a few of the bar area as well.


Bud


----------



## mmmkam

If you need or are looking into building your own kegerator or upgrading a kegerator to support multiple taps and need a draft tower check out http://www.acumetalfab.com . They will fabricate just about any type of tower that you want and the quality and service is top notch. I think I have some pics in my thread of the one i ordered for my bar. I think it cost me about $160 for a stainless steal 4" 3 hole tower with base and drip try that I build into my bar.


----------



## chinadog

Mike, thanks for the link. Pretty good stuff there. The even have a clamp on tower, which may be the route I have to got. They also have the wall mount thingies with the built in drip tray, which may be another option.


Bud


----------



## griplimited

Haven't been on the forums for quite some time now... but first thing I did was search for the longterm intensive DIYs... glad to see it come along so far, still a fantastic job.


----------



## chinadog

Grip, thanks. Still have a few things I'm working on both HT and basement related, just been distracted by work. Hopefully I'll be able to get my priorities straight soon!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, so here's why I've been so busy. Since we're just announced our relaunch beta site on our real site, I guess I can post out here for everyone to see. If you have any strong feelings (and I know you guys do) you can click on the feedback link and comment. Also, if you have any issues you can report them back through the same link.


CNN.com relaunch beta site: http://beta.cnn.com 


Bud


----------



## gshappell

Looks great. The current site wasn't bad, but this is alot easier on the eyes in terms of readability and overall look. I haven't looked at your source yet, but are you using any libraries(YUI, Prototype, etc..) for layout or other features? I am a big fan of the centered content. I am developing an intranet site for a division of the Dept of Treasury and am using centered content with rounded corners.

Also, the Hot Topics nav is a *really* nice feature for users.


Well done!

Ger


----------



## chinadog

Ger,


Thanks for the response. I can find out. My involvement on this particular project has been primarily infrastructure and integration related, I got involved late in the game.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gshappell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't looked at your source yet, but are you using any libraries(YUI, Prototype, etc..) for layout or other features?



Ger, was told that all the front end templates were all home grown.


Bud


----------



## ChipWV

I like the hot topics nav too!


Ahh, integration, I hate that word. Well it's not the word, it's the problems that verb creates.


Here were my comments

You might want to underline links on hover. The light blue hyperlink text may be a bit too light. Both are more of a problem for color blind people. In my normal size browser window a small bit (maybe 20-30 pix) of the left side gets cut off, but not much content, but I always notice a scroll bar.


Now get back to more important things!


Have a good weekend

Chip


----------



## chinadog

Hey Chip, thanks. I'll make sure I pass that along.


Bud


----------



## gshappell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ger, was told that all the front end templates were all home grown.
> 
> 
> Bud



Cool... Thanks for relaying that back to me/us. All in all, its a vast improvement. I use it instead of the current site all the time now.


----------



## chinadog

Ger,


No problem. I believe we're double publishing content, but there may be a lag in information on the beta site. We had a glitch with weather/local news we're addressing this AM. We'll switch over to the new site at some point in the not so distant future, got some additional things we're working on before that happens.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

No pictures yet, but I received and installed the new blue rope light. Its a matter of getting used to. I think its fine at lower levels, but isn't as diffused as the white was at higher levels. Blue rope light on a medium blue ceiling is different for me as well.


Bud


----------



## Zinema




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No pictures yet, but I received and installed the new blue rope light. Its a matter of getting used to. I think its fine at lower levels, but isn't as diffused as the white was at higher levels. Blue rope light on a medium blue ceiling is different for me as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I know what you mean - I have mine set to ~30% and it produced a nice blue glow, all other lights out. When watching a movie I can see the blue effect only in dark or night scenes, and it is hardly to notice at bright scenes. But that's the effect I wanted to have - some kind of bias light at dark scenes...


When I have it at 100% I can see all the single glowing spots reflected on my black ceiling - it's not very diffused.


It's hard to take a picture of it to represent the actual effect you see - on the pic its more diffused due to longer exposure time.


----------



## chinadog

Small update. I picked up some bar stools from Garden Ridge (of all places). They've got a 20% off sale going on and a surprisingly good selection. I went in to look at some misc crap for the bar and bought 5 barstools. Going back tonight for one more. They were normally 129.99 and I got them for 99.99 each. I took the best ones I could find, these weren't boxed and had one or two small fixable marks on them.











Now I'm leaning away from the foot rail (although not sure yet) since it'll push the seat out another few inches. Now that I have the seats, an extra few inches of overhang would have been nice to accommodate the bar rail.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

BTW, I picked up a new digital camera, a Sony Cybershot DSC-W55 .











I bought it from Amazon for 189.99. Comes in multiple colors, I actually got the silver one. Interesting story behind it. I bought the camera for my wife for Mother's Day and I bought the pink one. I bought it from some place in NYC online, can't remember the name of the place. They called to finalize the order and told me I bought the one that the menus were all in Japanese (I know I didn't) and then they proceed to sell me a bundled package with a better battery, memory stick and case. I just told the guy to cancel it. I then order the silver one from Amazon (I figured I'd borrow it and I'd look pretty stupid with a pink camera







).


It uses the memory stick, but doesn't come with it. I bought a 2G one on eBay, but realized later it was coming from Hong Kong and wouldn't be here on time for Mothers Day. I ended up getting a 1G from Circuit City as well.


Two weeks after having the camera, my son drops and breaks it! Second one he's dropped and broke. The lens got bent. I order a second one from Amazon and send the first one in to see if I can get it repaired cheaply. They fixed it and send it back at no cost. I had the extra memory stick already, so it worked out...










Great little camera and I'd recommend it if you're in the market for this type of camera.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0



Bud,


What a great color match -- you were very lucky! We scored a deal on the rear row seating from Pier1. They had them on sale and used a coupon for an additional 15% off. And the leather color and style matched the front seating (bought from a totally different store) almost perfectly. My wife just happened to be strolling throught the store and saw them. It's nice when thinks just work out










One thing to consider on the bar pole... The bar pole "might" help to keep people's feet a little further away from that beautiful Adler bar-front -- so not to scuff it up as easily! Just something to think about.


----------



## miltimj

Great find and they fit very well, Bud. I'd recommend putting some sticky-backed felt on the bottom of each leg if it doesn't already have it. My dad has some larger-legged stool/chairs and stapled scrap carpet on the bottom and it's much more pleasing to the ears (and floor) when moving them around.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One thing to consider on the bar pole... The bar pole "might" help to keep people's feet a little further away from that beautiful Adler bar-front -- so not to scuff it up as easily! Just something to think about.



Steve, that's exactly why I hadn't discounted it yet. I have a two foot section of the brushed steel from Kegworks and really, really like it. I'll chew on it a while.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Very nice match, Bud! You have to expect that the front of your bar will be nicked and bumped. Can't help it! Hopefully Adler is a forgiving wood.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great find and they fit very well, Bud. I'd recommend putting some sticky-backed felt on the bottom of each leg if it doesn't already have it. My dad has some larger-legged stool/chairs and stapled scrap carpet on the bottom and it's much more pleasing to the ears (and floor) when moving them around.



Tim! Good to hear from you. Seems like you've been a way for some reason. I have those felt pads on all the other chairs upstairs and still need to get them for the basement. Thanks for the reminder. Our Shepherds blow their coats two times a year and the adhesive on those pads tend to collect the hair. What a pain in the butt! I do like them better than the nail on kind or those plastic ones though, so I'll definitely use them.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice match, Bud! You have to expect that the front of your bar will be nicked and bumped. Can't help it! Hopefully Adler is a forgiving wood.



Thanks Randy. It's not as hard as maple or cherry, but its tougher than pine. Hopefully to won't get dinged up too much.


Here's a shot of the cushion material, the first shot makes it look a little lighter.











Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim! Good to hear from you. Seems like you've been a way for some reason. I have those felt pads on all the other chairs upstairs and still need to get them for the basement. Thanks for the reminder. Our Shepherds blow their coats two times a year and the adhesive on those pads tend to collect the hair. What a pain in the butt! I do like them better than the nail on kind or those plastic ones though, so I'll definitely use them.
> 
> 
> Bud



Heh, 8 time zones to the east for the past 16 months, but I'm finally coming back next month.. Unfortunately, I won't really have an ideal place to build an HT, so I'll be doing a temporary setup as my wife and I are planning to move often in the next few years.


Everything's looking great - it's amazing how it seems so complete yet you keep adding things that make your space even better! Have you had any outdoor theater events recently? I seem to remember you doing that once w/the Incredibles.


----------



## chinadog

Tim, I didn't realize you're were out of the country. Any plans on moving soon?


I've held off on the outdoor movies recently for a couple of reasons. In Atlanta, is a spring and fall thing for us. We wouldn't be able to start a movie this time of the year until 9:30 now and its just too late for the kids by the time its over. We'll wait until the time changes again, but thanks to "W", we'll have to wait a little longer.







I also want to get a second projector at some point just for that purpose.


I'm also in the progress of getting the yard in order. I'm slowly doing some landscaping in the back and getting organized. I'm almost done with a small tool shed (not something deep to drive a mower in, more like to hold tools). Need to trim it out, put on the roof and paint it. I've just finished some deck repairs and I've got guys at the house staining as I type. Just got some additional outdoor furniture as well. I'm going to build an outdoor bar for the deck too (ala jikkjack) . I want to string up some party (string) lights and need figure out how hang them. Was thinking of those shepherds hooks for plants, something like that.


Oh, and of course work has been extremely busy. The new cnn.com site goes up in a matter of a couple of weeks, so that's eaten into a lot of my evenings.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

If anyone is interested in bar stools, here is the Garden Ridge ad. It only shows a small sample. They had a boat load.

http://www.gardenridge.com/images/we...k20_21_02B.jpg 


and the sale is until the 26th of June.


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Yes, though it's not necessarily by "choice" per se.. Uncle Sam called, and I said yes 11 years ago and continue to do so, so here I am. Only another month to go, though. I can't wait to be back so I can roll around in the grass in my new front yard (to me.. haven't yet seen the house my wife bought a couple months ago).


Anyway, it sounds like you're definitely busy! That'd be quite fun managing an implementation like that. The consulting company I work for designed and managed the infrastructure for the 2004 Olympic Games in Greece. That was quite the project as well (I wasn't involved in that one though). Good luck with the launch!


----------



## larryep

You know we are HT enthusists when we go to garden ridge and fabric stores.










Bud how does that Camera take pictures in the theater?


I had more and more difficulty taking pictures as the theater got darker.

Right now money is tight and all I am thinking about buying is new sub. I have to way options new sub or Camera.










peace

larry ep.


----------



## BritInVA

Nice choice of bar stools Bud, as others said from pictures looks like a great colour match. Wish I could be as lucky. Everything I've seen is too dark.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Dude, get the sub, forget the camera!


I have not used it in the theater yet. I would expect you'd get the same results without changing any settings. No expert on cameras, I think you need a longer exposure time in darker settings.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice choice of bar stools Bud, as others said from pictures looks like a great colour match. Wish I could be as lucky. Everything I've seen is too dark.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark, I was lucky. I actually had a stain sample with me, but left it in my truck when I went in the store. I had planned on stopping somewhere else to look at stools, which is why I took it in the first place. I thought it was going to be pretty close when I eyeballed, but it turned out better than expected.


Bud


----------



## drin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Mark, I was lucky. I actually had a stain sample with me, but left it in my truck when I went in the store. I had planned on stopping somewhere else to look at stools...



OK, that was scary. The way your message line-wrapped I scanned it and read it as "I actually had a stool sample with me..."










-drin


----------



## chinadog

LOL - doesn't everyone carry a personal stool sample?!?!?










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just saw this review on the Ascend 340 SEs and 170 SEs. Not sure if others have seen it, so posting the link here.

http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi...e_cbm170se.htm 


Bud


----------



## Cathan

After a while it's hard to take speaker reviews all too serious. Unless the speaker completely misses the mark, the reviews seem to sound the same.


That being said, those the speakers I'll likely end up with for my LCR.


----------



## chinadog

Michael, yeah, understand. These have been pretty popular lately in the theater builds and I bought them based on the reviews and price (hadn't heard them before buying). Glad I did! You won't regret your decision either.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so here's why I've been so busy. Since we're just announced our relaunch beta site on our real site, I guess I can post out here for everyone to see. If you have any strong feelings (and I know you guys do) you can click on the feedback link and comment. Also, if you have any issues you can report them back through the same link.
> 
> 
> CNN.com relaunch beta site: http://beta.cnn.com
> 
> 
> Bud



Had to plug this since it's eaten up a chunk of my time in the past four months. The new CNN website went live today. More work to come, but we're finally up (and I've been up and at work since 5:30 this morning)

New CNN.com site! 


Sorry for the disappointment of not seeing something like a poker table or something else I built...










Bud


----------



## hlomax




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fortunately, this is NOT how I spent my Tuesday. I had the day off today, otherwise I would have been in the building. Some of these guys quoted I work with.
> 
> http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/04/03/cnn...ing/index.html
> 
> 
> Bud




Hey Bud,

I didn't know you work at CNN...

Techwood campus here!!


I would love to hookup some time oneday if you have time so I could check out what you have done with your basement!!!


Awesome job on all aspects from the bar to the theater!!


Max


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I picked up a new digital camera, a Sony Cybershot DSC-W55 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought it from Amazon for 189.99. Comes in multiple colors, I actually got the silver one. Interesting story behind it. I bought the camera for my wife for Mother's Day and I bought the pink one. I bought it from some place in NYC online, can't remember the name of the place. They called to finalize the order and told me I bought the one that the menus were all in Japanese (I know I didn't) and then they proceed to sell me a bundled package with a better battery, memory stick and case. I just told the guy to cancel it. I then order the silver one from Amazon (I figured I'd borrow it and I'd look pretty stupid with a pink camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> It uses the memory stick, but doesn't come with it. I bought a 2G one on eBay, but realized later it was coming from Hong Kong and wouldn't be here on time for Mothers Day. I ended up getting a 1G from Circuit City as well.
> 
> 
> Two weeks after having the camera, my son drops and breaks it! Second one he's dropped and broke. The lens got bent. I order a second one from Amazon and send the first one in to see if I can get it repaired cheaply. They fixed it and send it back at no cost. I had the extra memory stick already, so it worked out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great little camera and I'd recommend it if you're in the market for this type of camera.
> 
> 
> Bud



I was actually looking at this very camera for my wife, in the pink also!! I glad to see that someone (I respect) that has bought it and liked it.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hlomax* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> I didn't know you work at CNN...
> 
> Techwood campus here!!
> 
> 
> I would love to hookup some time oneday if you have time so I could check out what you have done with your basement!!!
> 
> 
> Awesome job on all aspects from the bar to the theater!!
> 
> 
> Max



Max,


Ha! Pretty funny, I don't get over there much anymore. Would love to host you. Jikkjack is actually on his way over for dinner tonight. I'll fire you off a PM shortly.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was actually looking at this very camera for my wife, in the pink also!! I glad to see that someone (I respect) that has bought it and liked it.



Sean,


If you plan on borrowing it, shy away from the pink.... she'll like it no matter what color it is. Nice little camera, we have two now. The first one my son dropped they fixed for free and now its mine ....










Bud


----------



## ngamer007

I just read (skipped through some parts) the entire thread. What an amazing build. I only wish I could afford something like this.


Maybe in the future...


----------



## chinadog

Thanks ngamer. One reason I do things myself, its a heck of a lot cheaper!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scored another under counter fridge for my concession area at HD. It's the same Magic Chef I put in the bar. This originally had a 297.00 price tag when I bought the first one. They had reduced the price to 277.00 then had it marked down to 247.00 It looked like the box was open, but it looked new. I took a closer look and it was missing one of the glass shelves! I said can I get an extra discount? She came back with another 30% off! I think it ended up being like 173.00 or something. Great deal. I took the extra shelf out of the other one anyway, so I've got it if I need it. The woman said they were marked down because they were being replaced by a newer Magic Chef model. They had one boxed, but the picture looked identical. It was also like 349.00! I'm thinking the difference is maybe, just maybe the whole enclosure around the door is stainless and not just the handle.


Here is a picture of the old one, but it looks the same:










I'll need to install an outlet where the fridge is going to go, I have access from under the stairs. I'll need to reverse the door like the other one.


Bud


----------



## 5Cradles

I bought mine for $250 a couple months ago. I was just in HD yesterday and the box is the only thing that is new because it shows 2 fridges next together in a high-end kitchen. My wife loves the fridge in our future theater bar in the back of the room.

It's simple, I only need to add the the door hardware, microwave, and sink and it's complete.

Bud, thanks for all the inspiration.


As you can see from the picture in the upper left hand corner is a blank cover for the power to the projector. The room has 56" DLP for now till I have more money for more toys.


Sorry for the hijack, just another pic for the Magic Chef in action.


James


----------



## chinadog

James, thanks for the response. Looks like you've got a nice setup there!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, well I posted a new thread in the HT Construction forum on wire loom and got no response. Anyone out there use wire loom to hide projector wires or organizing the back of their rack?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=875586 


Bud


----------



## Cathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Scored another under counter fridge for my concession area at HD. It's the same Magic Chef I put in the bar. This originally had a 297.00 price tag when I bought the first one. They had reduced the price to 277.00 then had it marked down to 247.00 ....
> 
> 
> Bud



My local HD (Springfield, VA) had a few of these on closeout as well. All were sealed boxes for $247.


----------



## phisch




> Quote:
> OK, well I posted a new thread in the HT Construction forum on wire loom and got no response. Anyone out there use wire loom to hide projector wires or organizing the back of their rack?



I just bought some of the black cable tubing from Home Depot. I plan on using it this weekend to organize the mess of wires behing my equipment rack. I bought the 1" diameter tubing, but it also came in 3/4" size too.


----------



## deewan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, well I posted a new thread in the HT Construction forum on wire loom and got no response. Anyone out there use wire loom to hide projector wires or organizing the back of their rack?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=875586
> 
> 
> Bud



I have used it to organize the mess of wires in my cabinet. It really makes the cabinet seem as if it has a lot more room and helps me when hooking up new devices. I might try to post pictures later if anyone is interested.


----------



## chinadog

You know.... I know home depot like the back of my hand.... I've never seen this stuff there!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deewan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have used it to organize the mess of wires in my cabinet. It really makes the cabinet seem as if it has a lot more room and helps me when hooking up new devices. I might try to post pictures later if anyone is interested.



Thanks for the reply. I think its a pretty economical solution for just that. I;d be interested in seeing some pictures if you've got some.


Bud


----------



## tleavit

I'm not sure if I'm the only one to say that I would be worried about buying a house on a street called "Blazing Ridge"


----------



## deewan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I think its a pretty economical solution for just that. I;d be interested in seeing some pictures if you've got some.
> 
> 
> Bud



Here are a few pictures. If you are interested in more, let me know. I was down stairs tonight hooking up and old DVD player and the PS2, which have not had the cables run through the flew tubing yet, so it still looks kind of messy. But trust me, it is 15 times better than it used to be.


Picture 1 which shows the inside of the cabinet
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_3490.jpg 


Picture 2 showing the outside where I have a 3-gang box routing the cables.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_3491.jpg 


If you want more, just IM me and I'll email them to you. It is much more easy that way.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tleavit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I'm the only one to say that I would be worried about buying a house on a street called "Blazing Ridge"



You are actually the first! If I lived in Utah or California, that would be an understatement! We did have those fires in South GA/North FL this year, a first as far as I know, bad drought this year. We could smell the smoke from downtown Atlanta.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

deewan,


Looks good! I'm not sure I'm going to do anything with my rack in particular. I helped my boss with his setup, was looking for some black loom to hide the cables form the projector to the ceiling. I also need to find a short power cord for the Panasonic AX100. Seems a be a pain to find since the connector is proprietary. I hate messy wires!


Bud


----------



## deewan

Bud, one thing I might suggest instead of the loom is to use some wire tape (i have no idea what the brand name is). Basically, it is a semi sticky tape that you can wrap wires with. It makes a group of wires appear to be one solid, slightly more think wire. A friend of mine around here used it on his setup and in applications where it can be seen by others, it has a much better viewing appeal than the loom. I'll see if he can shoot me a pic of his setup so I can show you what I'm talking about.


----------



## drin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deewan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud, one thing I might suggest instead of the loom is to use some wire tape (i have no idea what the brand name is). Basically, it is a semi sticky tape that you can wrap wires with.



I Googled 'wire tape' but couldn't find anything relevant. At the risk of sounding silly you're not talking about electrical tape, are you?


-drin


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I know what you're talking about, but don't know what its called either. I'll poke around. I also just spend the last 15 minutes looking for a short power cord and finally sent off an email to a company that makes them to see how much a two foot cord would cost. We'll see....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Heat shrink is another option, but not thinking it would be a pain in the butt to remove if need be later.

http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink4.htm 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Then there is wrap around:









http://cableorganizer.com/woven-wrap/ 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Spinal wrap:










http://cableorganizer.com/spiral-wrap/index.html 


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

I think deewan is refering to Self Amalgamating Tape. It's basically a non-sticky tape that you stretch as you wrap and it forms a solid sheath.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## mrpergo

Bud;

That wire loom at the Home Depot is in the electrical dept. where wire crimps and nuts ect. are. If I'm not mistaken they have 4 sizes. 3/8,1/2, 3/4 & 1". It comes in different lengths depending on the size. I bought some of each just to have on hand for different projects. I believe the only color available is black, but if you go to a Auto parts supply like PEP Boys you can get red and chrome.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud;
> 
> That wire loom at the Home Depot is in the electrical dept. where wire crimps and nuts ect. are. If I'm not mistaken they have 4 sizes. 3/8,1/2, 3/4 & 1". It comes in different lengths depending on the size. I bought some of each just to have on hand for different projects. I believe the only color available is black, but if you go to a Auto parts supply like PEP Boys you can get red and chrome.



Cool, thanks. I'm OK with black.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I added some rope light to the bar, similar to what Randy did. I used the 1/2 track and double sided tape to secure it. I used rope light under the cabinets as well, plan to do the lights above the cabinets too.


BTW, thinking about using license plates again as a back splash. The ones in the photo are extras I had. I would do it under the cabinets as well.



















(no, I don't have an old lady in my cabinet... thats a reflection from the TV







)


I still need to get a glass shelf for the cabinet with glass doors and I want to put some lighting in there as well. Any suggestions?


My father-in-law is coming down next weekend, so I have a few electrical tasks for him, including the electric for the fridge in my concession area and another switched outlet for my mylar box (haven't hung that yet). No new light boxes at this point. He's also going to bring the guts to the payphone and get that working.


I also ordered a few more poster frames from FrameUSA.com and I bought a few more posters on ebay. I have one wall in the gameroom I want to finish up and I'll use them there.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hey Bud,


How about a glass shelf halfway between your cabinet and that gorgeous granite? Maybe some high ball glasses or other stuff? The rope light would see through it to both levels.


Just a thought


----------



## chinadog

Randy, was thinking something there as well. I thought about doing a two tiered bottle shelf, but have been using the cabinet for storage. A shelf with something would look nice, will consider it. Thanks for the idea.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Decided to replace my inline fan that pulls air away from the projector. The old inline fan was one of the 4" puppies from BO (Big Orange) and it's rated at 40 CFM. This one is rated at 110 CFM. I noticed that the projector fan would kick into to high at some point during movies and figured this would help some. More piece of mind than anything, I suppose.










http://www.unitron-online.com/index....MMP=1011872300 


Bud


----------



## ebr

From the picture, it looks like that thing has the potential to create quite a "whooshing" sound of its own...


----------



## accts4mjs

Hey Bud,


The panasonic whisper fans include several inline models you might look into. I have a regular ceiling version I modified to be inline (before I realized there were inline models) but I must say it is amazingly quiet.


Mike


----------



## Alan Gouger

I was going to buy that exact in line for my 35mm film projector. I will order it tomorrow and should have it this week. Ill let you know what I think after I get it.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the picture, it looks like that thing has the potential to create quite a "whooshing" sound of its own...



Maybe, we'll see. I didn't see a sone rating for the fan itself (it says installed remotely - sound is NA - ha), but the current fan is installed in my workshop, a ways away from the theater room. The flex duct has plenty of bends in it as well. I can't hear the other fan if I'm standing under it either, so hopefully it all works out... I'll post the results.


Here's the spec pdf from Nutone, although I had to download in Firefox before opening it for some reason.

http://www.nutone.com/PDF/Specifications/ILF120spec.pdf 


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> The panasonic whisper fans include several inline models you might look into. I have a regular ceiling version I modified to be inline (before I realized there were inline models) but I must say it is amazingly quiet.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, I didn't realize they had made inlines either. I think since it's so far from the theater, this will work fine. Since I already ordered it, I hope so at least! Good to know there is an inline whisper version for future reference. Thanks for the link.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alan Gouger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was going to buy that exact in line for my 35mm film projector. I will order it tomorrow and should have it this week. Ill let you know what I think after I get it.



Alan, thanks for the post. I'll do the same. I expect I'll have it by mid week.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Bud - I doubt the fan itself is going to be a source of any noise. Its just that with the fan so much larger than the pipe its pulling air through, I would think the possibility exists for the air rushing through the intake to make noise. Do you have a flared intake so that it is larger than the ductwork as well?


In any case - sorry If I've made you fret unnecessarily...


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, I understood what you were saying. I have a 4x10 register vent attached at the projector. I was concerned about noise from the fan through the ductwork more than the "woosh", but again, we'll see.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Hey Bud, I know it was a while ago, but do you remember what size shelf you used for your yamaha receiver? It looks like its 4U, but the custom database says 5U. I need to get a few shelves ordered.


----------



## chinadog

Dave, off the top of my head, I think I bought 2U,3U and 4U shelves, but I can verify it when I get home from work. I should have an email from Worthington somewhere. You might want to look at the dimensions of the receiver. What model are you looking at?


The 2600 dimensions (W x H x D) are 17-1/8" x 6-3/4" x 17-1/4"


Based on this link, I suspect I bought a 4U. Plus it's on the top shelf, so there is some extra space above that that is "not shelve-able" because of the vent plate.
http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...e/shelves2.htm 


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Thanks Bud, I have the v661 - it is the almost the same dimensions as the V2600 (2600 is deeper). I was leaning towards the 4U, can't justify the extra coin for the custom shelves since it is a budget receiver that may get swapped out when the tech settles down a little. Need shelves for that and the PS3 to get things operational (and a screenwall built).


----------



## chinadog

Dave, did you use a Slim 5 rack? if you have it as the top shelf, a 4U should be fine. In the picture below you can see how much extra room there is at the top. If you use a 4U and put the receiver on the top, you got some room to play. If you're moving it further down, you might not have the airflow you'd need.











I'm home now, so here's what I got from Worthington (in attachment).


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud,


I am just rails, but I plan to put a 1U vent spacer between my heat generating components (at least until I need the space). Thanks for taking a look. Pretty nice prices at worthington back in the day. Hmm.


Time to order some shelves, spend some money. . .


----------



## chinadog

Alan and Eric, I got notice that my Nutone fan will arrive tomorrow. I have dinner plans, but will try and get it installed tomorrow night. Curious on its performance and of course the whooshing factor.










Bud


----------



## jspielmann

I have a Nutone in my equpment closet and it does a great job. I purchased the larger model and it does pull quite a bit of air from the room. You can barely hear it run so I purchased three more for my bathrooms. They work great!


----------



## accts4mjs

Where do you pull the air to? Outside or back into the return ducts? What's the effect on the temperature in the room?


The reason I ask is I've noticed that with my fan on (exhausts outside) and the A/C fan "on" (vs auto) it still warms up a bit in my room. However if I turn the fan on and just click the A/C temp down one degree (but leave the A/C fan on "auto") it seems to do better. I don't have a hush box for my PJ yet and hope that'll improve performance (I pull air from the closet and the PJ). Just curious...


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> I have a Nutone in my equpment closet and it does a great job. I purchased the larger model and it does pull quite a bit of air from the room. You can barely hear it run so I purchased three more for my bathrooms. They work great!



Thanks for the reply. I have a Nutone fan in my equipment closet as well (pictured above), just not an inline. My only quip is that I put the flapper on and you can hear that if your in the equipment area (not in the HT room though). Since it vents to my workshop, not sure what I was thinking, but nothing that keeps me up at night.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

BTW, I just got home and missed the UPS guy. They want me to sign for it in person for some reason, so no fan today.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you pull the air to? Outside or back into the return ducts? What's the effect on the temperature in the room?
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is I've noticed that with my fan on (exhausts outside) and the A/C fan "on" (vs auto) it still warms up a bit in my room. However if I turn the fan on and just click the A/C temp down one degree (but leave the A/C fan on "auto") it seems to do better. I don't have a hush box for my PJ yet and hope that'll improve performance (I pull air from the closet and the PJ). Just curious...
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Mike, I pull the air out of the projector box and out of the equipment closet through separate ducts to my workshop/mechanical room on the other side of the bar area. I thought about venting outside, but my foundation is all stone and I didn't want another hole in the side of the house. I also thought about "T"ing it with the bathroom fan, but you can image the downside to that... During the summer I'll also leave the fan "on" which helps circulate the air.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I was just about to walk out the door when one of the *DOGS* start barking, and sure enough it was UPS. My fan arrived. Unlikely I'll install it tonight though, but definitely in the next day or so.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was just about to walk out the door when one of the doors starting barking, and sure enough it was UPS. My fan arrived. Unlikely I'll install it tonight though, but definitely in the next day or so.
> 
> 
> Bud



Wow. I've heard of people going overboard with automation but you're the first one I've heard of that has trained their _doors_ to bark. Especially with that undersized bear you have in the house already - I wouldn't think that would be necessary...


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Where can I get one of those barking doors. A quick search on smarthome.com brought no results.....










Just had to rib ya on that one!! Keep up the good work Bud.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Come'on guys, don't you all have one of these? It's mounted on my door! Those Shepherds in the pictures are just stuffed.











The Barking Dog Alarm is an excellent Home Alarm or Security Alarm System


REX barking dog alarm is a high tech deterrent for burglars. This electronic watch dog home alarm viciously barks like an aggressive German Shepherd. The barking dog alarm also has a combo mode of the barking watch dog with an alarm system siren.

http://www.shopfromyourhome.com/Merc...nal_Protection 


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come'on guys, don't you all have one of these? It's mounted on my door! Those Shepherds in the pictures are just stuffed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Barking Dog Alarm is an excellent Home Alarm or Security Alarm System
> 
> 
> REX barking dog alarm is a high tech deterrent for burglars. This electronic watch dog home alarm viciously barks like an aggressive German Shepherd. The barking dog alarm also has a combo mode of the barking watch dog with an alarm system siren.
> 
> http://www.shopfromyourhome.com/Merc...nal_Protection
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL, that cracked me up. Leave it to you to find something like that










The add says "Rex contains motion sensing radar which penetrates through walls, doors, glass, etc. and senses movement up to 25 feet away." I wonder how that actually works?


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie, love the fact they put a .wav file out there with a sample bark. "SOUNDS LIKE AN ANGRY GUARD DOG" it says...

http://www.shopfromyourhome.com/Merc...BarkingDog.wav 


Imagine, a complete home security system to chase away burglars for the special price of 74.99 (plus s/h)!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

And it beats Poopper Scoopping


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And it beats Poopper Scoopping



LOL!


----------



## chinadog

Scooping doesn't cost me anything, its the other end that I costs me money every month! 200 lbs of Shepherds = lots o' dog food.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Installed the Nutone fan this morning, works like a charm. Much more airflow than the other cheapo fan and I can't hear the fan at all. I can hear only a very slight whoosh when the fan is running and nothing else is on in the theater room. Pretty happy with the result, I expect it'll suck some warm air out of the room as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So just a follow-up to the Nutone fan. I've been in the theater pretty much every night this week watching movies with my father-in-law. I am happy to report that I have not heard the AE900 fan kick into high once this week. I guess the extra CFMs pulls the heat away enough to keep it cooler than it was. Sure, it was 5 times more costly than the other fan (25.00 vs 125.00), but it'll probably add some more life to the projector hopefully as well. Definitely money well spent. I haven't noticed any whooshing either.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

How's the temperature in the room? Was your room heating up before? If so is it noticeably cooler now?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


It could get warm this time of year, it's been 100+ the last couple of days especially, and it was actually pretty good in there. I tend to use the AC in the basement and run the HVAC fan while watching movies anyway. I have on return in the HT room and one supply. I have another supply in the concession area (I tend to leave that door open during movies) as well. With the fan in the closet and now with the additional pull from the projector box, it's pleasant.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

A couple of updates. My father-in-law installed an outlet for me and I was able to hook up the fridge.


















He also installed a switched outlet for my mylar box. Its an insteon switch, but planning on giving it an X10 address. Wanted to play with it some. I still have install the back box and run the rope light like my poster boxes.










I picked up this bullet trash can at Target. Love it.










I installed a light that I had sitting around (bought from Ikea some time ago) above my rack so I don't have to light the whole room during a movie. I need to flip the base on it so it's not hanging over the casing, but no biggie. Works like a champ.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Been working on a small yard tool shed here and there. It's just outside my workshop. It's just for some tools (weed whacker and edger) and all the yard chemicals and gas containers. I just did all the trim, corner boards and door today. This week I'll caulk it all and next weekend I'll paint it, attach the door and put some shingles on the roof. Oh yeah and need to install some shelves on that right side.


Anyone know where to get some decent levelling feet? Maybe galvanized? I need to get it off the ground a little.



















Bud


----------



## mbgonzomd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to get some decent levelling feet? Maybe galvanized? I need to get it off the ground a little.



Hockey Pucks???


----------



## chinadog

Great idea, although probably a little too high. I will go look at my son's Thrashers puck to double check though!










Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Nice job on the shed! How large it it? I also have a shed on my list to store the lawn mower, edger, weed-eater, shovels, etc. I'll get to that later this year if I can find the time.


I'm working on some shelves right now in my garage to clean things up a bit. It just got to the point I had to do it or commit suicide







I'm off to Walmart tonight to purchase some clear bins. It will be nice to walk to my workbench without tripping over everything.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. Its about 24 inches deep, 48 inches wide and about 84 inches tall in the front, 96 in the back. Interior is a little smaller due to framing, obviously. I constrained it to the size of the siding (4x8) so I would have a lot of scrap and piecemeal. It's large enough for what I wanted to do. My mower is a Snapper ride on and I don't have a good place to put a large shed at this point. It'll side where it is basically, which is under my deck, under the screen in area.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

one alternative

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...eveling%20feet 


Here is a very simple one in stainless steel:

http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/inde...3C3B285350415D


----------



## chinadog

Big, thanks for the help. The first might be a little tall based on the specs. I did see the second one, they make a non swivel versions as well. I wasn't sure how to order from the company, I guess I should call.


Hockey pucks still might be an option as well.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I hung my mylar box last night. Here are a couple of shots. Two things to do still. Cut out the extra electrical cord. Need to make it shorter and splice it. In the Shark Tale mylar, you can see the cord up against it if you really look. Too bulky. I didn't use a diffuser on this box, I just Scotch taped the mylars to the back of the outside box. I also need to set the X10 address on the dimmer so I can program in to my scenes on the Powelinc. I still have a few tweaks I want to do still on the scenes.


----------



## chinadog

BTW, Once I bang out this shed project, I'll move on to the poker table. I still haven't abandoned my marquee build either. I'll get back to that in the fall.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Hey Bud, what are you using to program your Insteons? I have the ControLinc Maxi from Smarthome and program them in X10 mode, but it's really a pain to tweak the scenes. I went with X10 scenes because there was no IR -> Insteon converter available, at least at the time.


----------



## chinadog

Steve, this is my first time playing with an Insteon dimmer. I bought 5 of the 2876s from Smarthome since there were half price at the time. All the other dimmers are X-10. I used the software that came with the PowerLinc controller at the time I was trying to control scenes.

http://www.smarthome.com/2876db.html 


You might recall my poor man's GE diagram I did:
http://images112.fotki.com/v587/phot...control-vi.jpg 


And here is the shot of the Smarthome Manager software that comes with the Powerlinc controller for the scene setup I did:
http://images28.fotki.com/v979/photo...rHTRoom-vi.jpg


----------



## chinadog

Poster frames from FrameUSA came today. I got my posters installed and hung up in the gameroom.











Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


The picture on the right looks a little high














Posters look great. Hell, everything looks great!!


Do you have a front shot of your entire "completed" rack? I'm thinking of cutting a hole into my wet bar (which shares a wall with my equipment closet) for my equipment. How much would you say you spent on the professional rack solution (with the blanks, shelves, power strip, etc)? I think I may just build something myself to save the $$ with a glass door on front to help control equipment noise. I will also install some vents above and below the rack to "passively" dissipate the heat from that equipment room (which has a dedicated AC supply).


BTW -- how did the shed turn out? Any new pics?


----------



## W00lly

Bud

I surfed a bit on that site with the metal feet and there is a Swiftsure Certified Distributor in atlanta. look on the bottom of the page http://ecom.carrlane.com/distributors/georgia.html


----------



## Rowlander

Wow. I´m so impressed by all the things you are building and coming up with. This is the kind of hometheater I wish I will own some day myself.

At least I have the same panasonic-projector as you.









*Looking through this thread really makes me wish I knew how to "build stuff"*. I have very little experience or knowledge about these things. I wouldn´t even know where to begin so I don´t know if I will ever be able to get where you are already unless I invest a huge amount of money into a team of carpenters.











There is a little thing I would do different though: When I build my own "real" hometheater some day (hopefully) I will build a cinemascope-screen with black curtains on both sides to change it from 21:9 to 16:9. Watch projected cinemascope full screen. That´s one of my deams.









But I´m a looong way from getting that.



Post some wide photos of the room some day, I´d like to see how far finished it is now. Any way enjoy your home theater, you really earned it!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> The picture on the right looks a little high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Posters look great. Hell, everything looks great!!
> 
> 
> Do you have a front shot of your entire "completed" rack? I'm thinking of cutting a hole into my wet bar (which shares a wall with my equipment closet) for my equipment. How much would you say you spent on the professional rack solution (with the blanks, shelves, power strip, etc)? I think I may just build something myself to save the $$ with a glass door on front to help control equipment noise. I will also install some vents above and below the rack to "passively" dissipate the heat from that equipment room (which has a dedicated AC supply).
> 
> 
> BTW -- how did the shed turn out? Any new pics?



Hey Steve,


You are correct, the right frame is up a hair. You guys are good! Got lazy and will adjust this weekend.


It's all the add ons that add up, not the rack itself. The rack was about 210.00. The shelves I recently posted the pricing for a few posts back, that was like 300.00. I bought a bunch of blanks and a drawer, screws, cable organizers, etc on ebay. Probably another 300.00 there. Not cheap, for sure, but I'm happy with the result.


The shed is still where it is in the pictures. I need to get a new caulk gun this weekend and I'll hopefully have it all painted before Monday.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud
> 
> I surfed a bit on that site with the metal feet and there is a Swiftsure Certified Distributor in atlanta. look on the bottom of the page http://ecom.carrlane.com/distributors/georgia.html



Hey, thanks! Looks like on in Roswell and Marietta too.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rowlander* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. I´m so impressed by all the things you are building and coming up with. This is the kind of hometheater I wish I will own some day myself.
> 
> At least I have the same panasonic-projector as you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Looking through this thread really makes me wish I knew how to "build stuff"*. I have very little experience or knowledge about these things. I wouldn´t even know where to begin so I don´t know if I will ever be able to get where you are already unless I invest a huge amount of money into a team of carpenters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little thing I would do different though: When I build my own "real" hometheater some day (hopefully) I will build a cinemascope-screen with black curtains on both sides to change it from 21:9 to 16:9. Watch projected cinemascope full screen. That´s one of my deams.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I´m a looong way from getting that.
> 
> 
> Post some wide photos of the room some day, I´d like to see how far finished it is now. Any way enjoy your home theater, you really earned it!



Rowlander, thanks. Half the battle to doing anything is the right tools. I'm no carpenter, I'm an experimenter. I just try and figure out how to do things. All these side projects, they're all just wood and nails!


I purposely didn't go 2.35:1 for this room due to the width. I watch a lot of movies, but also enjoy HDTV down there. I think if I only used the room for movies, I would consider that route. Since I'm maxed out width wise for the screen, I don't gain much going 2:35:1 except losing the black bars on some movies. The con is that I'd gain them back on HDTV. My next theater hopefully will be larger so I'll have more flexibility. No room for curtains currently either, although that's a particular look and would have to be just right for me.


The theater room hasn't really changed much at this point, I still have a star ceiling bug in my head. My concession area has changed some and the game room is evolving still. I guess I should post some general or "whole" room shots.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Did you read Sandman's comments on his star ceiling? I think he implied that it really was becoming a distraction and wasn't really worth it. Maybe I'm taking his comments our of context.


Anyway, all of your work has been really classy. Nice color scheme, excellent trim work and I like your style choice for posters.


Your skills are really shining through in all of your projects.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy. I do remember seeing him comment from him on that subject. It might be me, but his ceiling looks great and is really bright. Not sure if its the size of the fiber or the number of stars. Or maybe because the photos mostly show his blue rope light on full tilt, so I can understand that it could be a distraction. Dunno. I'm a ways from starting that project, but would like to hear from some of the other guys that have recently done it (Steve, Mark, etc). My area would be much smaller, something like 9x10 since I have that large soffit in the back room.


It's starting to come together. Thanks for the comments!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

I saw someone build a star ceiling that actually looked like a widow. It was hung a bit down from the ceiling. It was smaller and I thought it looked really nice. We all look forward to the pics of your next project!


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I saw someone build a star ceiling that actually looked like a widow. It was hung a bit down from the ceiling. It was smaller and I thought it looked really nice. We all look forward to the pics of your next project!



Randy,


Mine is either the one you are talking about or something similar. I'll make sure and post some pics soon. I still need to make a few adjustments.


As far as the stars being a distraction, it can be if you are not careful. I got this new LED based light unit and it has 15 different twinkle settings and allows you to control the speed and brightness of the light as well. If they twinkle too much (like a full random on/off of the stars), it is VERY distracting during a movie. I chose a setting that just slightly dims the stars in/out (random patterns) and that does the trick. It is not distracting at all -- just very cool when sitting in your seat!


I recommend it for the WOW factor. The kids always bring their friends up to show it off. My setup only cost me about $300 (out the door) for the fiber, light box, fabric and wood. I have 192 stars (4-bundles of their 48 strand multi-sized fiber setup - EG-PACK48 ) in a 8.5' x 5.5' ceiling section.


----------



## calv1n

Bud,


Looking forward to the whole room photos







I'm also watching this thread closely for your star ceiling project to see how you handle it (and to see if I want to attempt something like this as well after I deal with this HA stuff).


Always a pleasure to stop by and learn from your build.


Cheers

Calvin


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rowlander* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. I´m so impressed by all the things you are building and coming up with. This is the kind of hometheater I wish I will own some day myself.
> 
> At least I have the same panasonic-projector as you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Looking through this thread really makes me wish I knew how to "build stuff"*. I have very little experience or knowledge about these things. I wouldn´t even know where to begin so I don´t know if I will ever be able to get where you are already unless I invest a huge amount of money into a team of carpenters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Rowlander - don't be daunted. Dive in and try some stuff. I think you'll be surprised by what you can accomplish. I had barely ever driven a nail before my first room. Watching the guys build that one gave me the confidence to try to do more on the second room and then almost all of it on the third. Now I've built a tree house for the kids:










(haven't quite finished the roof yet)


and done lots of other little projects around the house that I never would have thought I could do.


I don't think my craftmanship would stand the scrutiny that Bud's and some other guys out here would but if I can do this stuff then just about anyone can. Go for it. (and go for the 2.35 too







).


----------



## tleavit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rowlander - don't be daunted. Dive in and try some stuff. I think you'll be surprised by what you can accomplish. I had barely ever driven a nail before my first room. Watching the guys build that one gave me the confidence to try to do more on the second room and then almost all of it on the third. Now I've built a tree house for the kids:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (haven't quite finished the roof yet)
> 
> 
> and done lots of other little projects around the house that I never would have thought I could do.
> 
> 
> I don't think my craftmanship would stand the scrutiny that Bud's and some other guys out here would but if I can do this stuff then just about anyone can. Go for it. (and go for the 2.35 too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).




What kind of AV equipment you gonna put in that bad boy


----------



## HeyNow^

Steve,


Yep that's the one I was talking about. Love it.


ebr,


I see some potential sound isolation issues with that tree house....


----------



## chinadog

Steve, I'll be pinging you as I move on the star ceiling. I think I would have to do multiple panels and need to deal with the cans. Was thinking of doing it such that it looks like a window with stained crown and wood sections like a window pane, similar to yours. I saw that LED source and was curious how it worked. That's the way to go, huh?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calv1n* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the whole room photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also watching this thread closely for your star ceiling project to see how you handle it (and to see if I want to attempt something like this as well after I deal with this HA stuff).
> 
> 
> Always a pleasure to stop by and learn from your build.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Calvin



Calvin, I'd try and post some stuff over the next two weeks, the weekend is filling up quickly so I might not get to it for another week.


The ceiling maybe be a spring project, so stay tuned. Juggling a few things and expect I'll have some more balls thrown into the mix. I have an idea how I want to proceed, so maybe I can at least find some time to plan things and drawn something up.


BTW, things are looking great from your side as well!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve, I'll be pinging you as I move on the star ceiling. I think I would have to do multiple panels and need to deal with the cans. Was thinking of doing it such that it looks like a window with stained crown and wood sections like a window pane, similar to yours. I saw that LED source and was curious how it worked. That's the way to go, huh?
> 
> 
> Bud



Yes, that LED source is great with lots of flexibility, silent operation and NO heat issues. Hopefully Ronnie Jackson will be doing his soon so we'll have another review for that unit.


Ping away with you are ready.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rowlander - don't be daunted. Dive in and try some stuff.



I absolutely agree with this, its not rocket science, think about the guys you hire to do this work! Here is my philosophy on this (really my father in laws, but I believe!).... Half the battle is having the right tools to make it simple, the other part is a little know how and common sense. When you need a tool, buy it! This way you have it for the next time you need it. If its too expensive or if its a one time only tool, you can always rent. The good news in most cases is that if you screw something up, you can always redo it since its materials only (you supply the labor) and it would still be cheaper than hiring someone. Plus, if you screw up, at least you learned what not to do next time!


Oh, and nice treehouse!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> The picture on the right looks a little high


*FIXED!*










Bud


----------



## Papajin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> *FIXED!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



I dunno, I just went back and looked at the picture again, and I swear it still looks too high!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Papajin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dunno, I just went back and looked at the picture again, and I swear it still looks too high!



LOL... wise guy!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I caulked the shed today in preparation for painting. I had bought two tubes of caulk. I used the first tube on the shed and had to open the second for the door. One slight problem though. When I grabbed the second tube, I grabbed the wrong one on my workbench. I ended up grabbing the one that was white pure silicon, which is not paintable.







It dried in no time flat and I didn't realize it until I went back to smooth out the bead! So I ended up pulling it all off, cutting my finger in the process. Took like an hour. What a pain in the butt. It's drying now (including the new door caulk) and I'll probably do a first coat of paint in the morning.


Bud


----------



## tleavit

Hey China, Im just about at that point now also. What kind of caulk should I buy to seal up the botom area under the sheetrock near the floor and such?


----------



## chinadog

I took a quick look at your thread. Besides insulation, did you do any soundproofing techniques? Is it a concern? The reason I ask is if your not concerned about sound leakage, I wouldn't even bother. Looks like they did a decent job. If you are, there is acoustical caulk out there, although you'd want to caulk in a bunch of places, not just the where the wall and floor meet. Since I wasn't too concerned with leakage myself, I didn't caulk the area where the wall met the floor. I'm sure others that do more in the soundproofing area will chime in.


Looking good, BTW.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

You've pretty much covered it. If you're soundproofing then you caulk EVERYTHING. If you don't the smallest hole will leak sound like a sieve. I'm not kidding. It was surprising how much sound got out a small hole I cut in my wall for a speaker cable until I plugged it.


Mike


PS. Bud, sorry about the caulk mishap, those kinds of things happen to me ALL the time. I have total empathy for you


----------



## chinadog

Hey, thanks Mike. You live and you learn....


Bud


----------



## JBLsound4645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/11334073
> 
> 
> Rowlander - don't be daunted. Dive in and try some stuff. I think you'll be surprised by what you can accomplish. I had barely ever driven a nail before my first room. Watching the guys build that one gave me the confidence to try to do more on the second room and then almost all of it on the third. Now I've built a tree house for the kids:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (haven't quite finished the roof yet)
> 
> 
> and done lots of other little projects around the house that I never would have thought I could do.
> 
> 
> I don't think my craftmanship would stand the scrutiny that Bud's and some other guys out here would but if I can do this stuff then just about anyone can. Go for it. (and go for the 2.35 too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).



LOL


That's not the word's famous Empire cinema at London.


However this one is!!



























Seems like you guys need some real inspiration of what a cinema looks like!


----------



## JBLsound4645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/6553568
> 
> 
> Here's my first cut at the stage and proscenium. I'm still figuring out dimensions, colors and all that stuff. The top picture is a look from above. I want to have a curved stage, probably with one step. It's a pretty simple design. It shows a sub on both sides, but I'll probably will go with only one. I'll probably tweak it and add the dimensions over the next week or so.
> 
> 
> All comments, suggestions and criticism welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud
> 
> *EDIT:* I adjusted the bottom drawing since it looked compressed and broke the one drawing into two.
> *EDIT 2:* Gary's recommendation.


WRONG! That is not how loudspeakers are positioned in home cinema! You've been reading too much trash in the magazines.


Loudspeakers are positioned with matching sets for LCR and they should be positioned about 2/3 screen height, why can't anyone do it RIGHT! Sorry mate you need to start over again.


Good marks for the rest of the design too bad about the screen speakers, and I've heard all the excesses by lots of people on so many sites.


----------



## chinadog

JBLsound4645,


This diagram was for illustration/design purposes for the screen wall and stage, not necessary absolute speaker position. In fact, I was thinking of different colors for the proscenium. Grey was one of the options before I went all black.


For actual location, I read here on AVS that the tweeter needs to be at ear level (might have been Dennis or perceived to be Dennis). Sorry, no mags! In my case, it's about a 1/3 of the screen height. Thats what I did right or wrong. Also, I didn't use an AT screen so I had to make a compromise and put the center channel below. Many of the folks here without AT prefer above the screen, but I had no room to do so. I think if I had not been further along at the time, I would had gone SmX and that would helped. It would be helpful if you had a link to the information about your speaker location position so that others might learn from it.


Most rooms have some compromise. My room isn't as big as I would have liked. You have to make trade-offs based on what's more important to you. In my case, it's not just height, but closeness to the wall since I wanted a larger screen. I'm actually very happy the sound of my room. Could it be better? Probably. Could raising the speakers some help? Maybe. I do have the flexibility to move them higher behind the panels, so maybe I'll see if there is a difference.


Thanks for the post.

*EDIT on 08/12/08:* Adding his construction thread ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=995892 ) as a "reference" a year after I discovered it.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

I think Mark might have suggested this, didn't get chance to check. I've started an index of areas of interest in this thread for my installs, techniques, products, etc. I updated the first post to include this. I've only scratched the surface here, but if you have specific stuff you deem is worthy in this thread and think it needs an entry in the first post, let me know.


Also, before, when linking to a specific post in a thread, you'd get a new window and that post would scroll to the top of the window. You'd still have all the other posts surrounding it. Seems now that you only get than one post, which is problematic since there are discussions surrounding that post. I guess that happened with the new changes this weekend.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...67#post5760667 


I also noticed as I went through the thread that some photos were missing, not sure why, but I'll try and fix those.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud the mylar box looks great......agree with steve that right poster still looks a little high










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## aaron_hinni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11345660
> 
> 
> I think Mark might have suggested this, didn't get chance to check. I've started an index of areas of interest in this thread for my installs, techniques, products, etc...



That is awesome that you are doing this. I would love to see others with the large reference threads do the same. Although I imagine it to be a fair amount of work, it will save others a ton of search time though.


As far as the links taking you to a single post and losing the context, I just found a couple of work arounds. On the far right of the "View Single Post" title bar there is a link to the Thread... this link takes you to the post with all the surrounding context.


If you wanted to take the time, it looks like you could change all of your links ending in p=POSTNUMBER&postcount=COUNT to p=POSTNUMBER#postPOSTNUMBER.


----------



## chinadog

Aaron,


Cool thanks. I'll update all my links. I had posted a question to David Bott before on the subject to see if there was a way to override, was waiting on a response. I'll give your method a try.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Aaron, did you try this since the upgrade? Doesn't seem to work for me. Here's what I'm doing:


Here is how it's now implemented:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=666 


Here is how the old way worked (granted this is the archive forum):
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...&post7285060 


So if I use this old convention, for the upper post, I get:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&post6946796 


which gives me one post still.


Based on your post, I tried:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...96#post6946796 


and it still comes back with a single post (also say Single Post in the title of the new window!)


Did I miss something?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Looks like this format works though:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post11330025 


Bud


----------



## aaron_hinni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11346152
> 
> 
> Did I miss something?



Looks like I did. Change the showpost to showthread...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...96#post6946796


----------



## chinadog

Ah, that's the ticket. Thanks. I went back and changed the initial links.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/11345742
> 
> 
> Bud the mylar box looks great......agree with steve that right poster still looks a little high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark! I think it may be time to pull that picture ...










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys... made some decent progress in the index to this thread. Still got a lot of work to do (especially on the product side), but wanted to make sure what I did was useful. I think it is for people looking for something quick that might not know what something is called or is a search newbie. Please take a look at the first thread, scroll down to the index and let me know what you think:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...67#post5760667 


Bud


----------



## John Martin

Bud,


Your thread is one the most viewed at my home and that is a HUGE help in finding information on your build. Well done.


John


----------



## chinadog

John, thanks. Any suggestions on the format or anything? I've trying to group links where I can even though the actually work may be across multiple pages. Does that work?


Bud


----------



## mbgonzomd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JBLsound4645* /forum/post/11343721
> 
> WRONG! That is not how loudspeakers are positioned in home cinema! You’ve been reading too much trash in the magazines.
> 
> 
> Loudspeakers are positioned with matching sets for LCR and they should be positioned about 2/3 screen height, why can’t anyone do it RIGHT! Sorry mate you need to start over again.
> 
> 
> Good marks for the rest of the design too bad about the screen speakers, and I’ve heard all the excesses by lots of people on so many sites.



That is pleasant







. Bud, I commend you on your diplomacy. You thread is one of the most useful on this forum...even if your speaker placement is an utter disaster







. The links at the beginning of your thread is a great idea. It will be a very useful tool for the newbies.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Bud -


That index is great. I'd suggest moving it to a separate post e.g. Post #3 (Chirpie quotes it entirely in post#4 anyways), then add a direct link to the "thread index" as a second line to your sig. Between your index and Ruben organizing his thread onto his forum, a lot of good stuff is easy to find newbies or long-time readers alike.


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I was planning to do the same thing with my thread once everything was completed. Good job. I'll be borrowing a few ideas from yours


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mbgonzomd* /forum/post/11381829
> 
> 
> That is pleasant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Bud, I commend you on your diplomacy. You thread is one of the most useful on this forum...even if your speaker placement is an utter disaster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The links at the beginning of your thread is a great idea. It will be a very useful tool for the newbies.



Thanks man. I'm all for opposing positions done tactfully and with some sort of meat on the bone .... would be nice to have had some information besides a flame. Thats me. I'm here to learn from others as well.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/11382016
> 
> 
> Bud -
> 
> 
> That index is great. I'd suggest moving it to a separate post e.g. Post #3 (Chirpie quotes it entirely in post#4 anyways), then add a direct link to the "thread index" as a second line to your sig. Between your index and Ruben organizing his thread onto his forum, a lot of good stuff is easy to find newbies or long-time readers alike.



Dave, I know where you're going and I'll take a look at this more closely. I was trying to take the word "*INDEX*" in the first post and make that an anchor take so I could link directly in the middle of the post, but my first cut at it failed miserably. Anyone how I can add an anchor tag?


I didn't think of the sig link, good idea.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11382476
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I was planning to do the same thing with my thread once everything was completed. Good job. I'll be borrowing a few ideas from yours



Thanks Steve. I was going to suggest you and Ronnie do it. Takes some time to go back and review, verify the links, organize things, but its not bad.


Bud


----------



## aaron_hinni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11382476
> 
> 
> I was planning to do the same thing with my thread once everything was completed.



Your index would have come in handy for me a while back. I was too lazy to use the search and decided I would work backwards in your thread to see how you made your columns... Going backwards from page 60 something to page 2 was good times ;-)


However you guys making these extremely helpful indexes are going to lay it out, do make one of the first links point to the pictures of your finished room or go ahead and put a picture on your first page if it would make sense.


----------



## HeyNow^

It amazes me how much work you guys (and gals) put into your awesome theater builds and then take the time to post pics, detailed instructions, links to purchases and chronicle what works as well as what doesn't. Now you are going even further to make it easier for all of us to access this information. I've never see anything like it.


All of you should be highly commended for doing this.


I certainly thank you!!!


Class act for sure.


----------



## chinadog

Aaron, I know Steve did this already. I'll do the same, just need to get some new pics. BTW, 60 pages if you're set the number of posts per page to 60!










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


I wish this was done when I started, so going the extra mile to give back for all the stuff I've learned is no big deal in my book.


Bud


----------



## Chiahead

Thanks for doing the index Bud, that will really come in handy when I start (which could be awhile, need to save up some serious funds first).


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11382500
> 
> 
> Thanks man. I'm all for opposing positions done tactfully and with some sort of meat on the bone .... would be nice to have had some information besides a flame. Thats me. I'm here to learn from others as well.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I actually had posted a well phrased attack against this yahoo but after I posted it I got that itchy feeling in the back of my head. I clicked on his username and followed his last 20 posts and it was very obvious he was trolling. He had comments like that all over AVS. So it became apparent he was looking for a fight and I figured it best to not have your thread hijacked so I deleted my post. Just wanted you to know I was ready to go to bat for ya










Mike


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Mike. I immediately did the same thing, checking other posts and then decided to rephrase my response for the same reason.


Bud


----------



## Jasonn B

I have to say this is one impressive thead and great, great work!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/11383552
> 
> 
> Thanks for doing the index Bud, that will really come in handy when I start (which could be awhile, need to save up some serious funds first).



No problem. You'll get there, we all have that problem at one point or another!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jasonn B* /forum/post/11387258
> 
> 
> I have to say this is one impressive thead and great, great work!



Hey, thanks and welcome the the party! Let me know how that X10 stuff is going....


Bud


----------



## ebr

The index is great, Bud. I had thought about something like that but, in my measly 19 page thread, things are pretty easy to find







. Plus, most of it is done (better) in this thread and others. Keep up the good work.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/11388037
> 
> 
> The index is great, Bud. I had thought about something like that but, in my measly 19 page thread, things are pretty easy to find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plus, most of it is done (better) in this thread and others. Keep up the good work.



Thanks. I expect that this thread will go stale at some point and will eventually get archived... it'll be a sad day for me...










Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11388085
> 
> 
> Thanks. I expect that this thread will go stale at some point and will eventually get archived... it'll be a sad day for me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Don't worry Bud. We'll keep adding friendly banter to keep it alive FOREVER


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


I have no doubt _you_ will, especially after the Blazing Saddles and the Zoltar photoshop masterpieces of yours....







.....and no, I won't be adding them to the index!


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11389653
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> I have no doubt _you_ will, especially after the Blazing Saddles and the Zoltar photoshop masterpieces of yours....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....and no, I won't be adding them to the index!
> 
> 
> Bud



I forgot about the Blazing Saddles post. Thanks for the laugh


----------



## accts4mjs

Blazing Saddles and Zoltar? Ooh, ooh, share!!


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike, go back about 1K or more and you'll see them, I believe Zoltar is among some of my "bald twins". As they say, "let sleeping dogs lie".










Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

LOL! Zoltar, that's awesome. I won't post it though...


Mike


----------



## chinadog

I think I finished the Index for techniques and how tos. If I missed something, please let me know and I'll add it. Next up is the product list.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Not to be outdone by a new JVC 1080p projector, I've added a few shiney new thingies to the concession area. One retro looking microwave from Target and a couple of ebay specials - a Coke napkin holder and straw container. Not an even swap, but I didn't want to feel left out....



























Bud


----------



## Big Worms

Nice Bud!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Too funny Bud.


Nice napkin dispenser, too.


----------



## Jasonn B

Nice! Is that microwave wood grain simulated, or just brown? Looks cool.


----------



## accts4mjs

Wow, that's a cool microwave, I like it better than the stainless one I have.


I very much dig your straw holder, think I'm going to have to get one of those for myself. What's the longest straw you think you could fit in there?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog

The microwave is an Emerson and was on clearance at Target. I believe they had a stainless version of it as well. I paid about 65.00 for it. It's just black on the sides, Jasonn. Color is off, I suppose. I think I paid 3.50 for the napkin holder plus shipping on ebay, maybe 7.00 total. Now I need to get the right sized napkins for it. Mike, those are standard bendy straws in there now and there is a good two inches left. If I had to guess, it would take a 10" straw. I actually got two together on ebay for 15.00, the other is in the bar.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is the microwave, I don't get the guest rating...


Emerson .9 cu. ft. Microwave - Stainless Steel/ Red

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B000M9FKTK 


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11549336
> 
> 
> Here is the microwave: I don't get the guest rating...
> 
> 
> Emerson .9 cu. ft. Microwave - Stainless Steel/ Red
> 
> http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B000M9FKTK
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, you gotta get that matching toaster.....


----------



## chinadog

Randy, saw that. Might make a good remote holder ... unplugged of course.










Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

LOL! I could just see it popping up the remote for you as you walked in the room










Mike


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jasonn B, how are you making out with your X10 install? That 890 working for you well?


Bud


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11560286
> 
> 
> Hey Jasonn B, how are you making out with your X10 install? That 890 working for you well?
> 
> 
> Bud



I haven't really done much since we got the bias light setup (pic) , I'm moving in this weekend I hope and then may bug you again


----------



## chinadog

Cool. Looks great. Let me know.


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


Those bar items look very nice. They fit in well with the decor. JVC projector -- what are you talking about?







I checked my crystal ball and I see a new projectors for your room in the near future







Hmm, maybe the Panny 2000U slated to be released early next year?


----------



## chinadog

Steve, just trying to get a rise outta you, my friend! I wouldn't mind upgrading at some point and maybe using the AE900 for an outdoor movie setup at that point. It'll do the job for a while, but once the bulb goes, you never know though.


Bud


----------



## Mr. Welsh

I haven't checked in on this thread in a long time, and Bud you've made great progress! The basement looks very nice.


Any plans to upgrade that dining table to a proper card playing table?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Welsh* /forum/post/11574180
> 
> 
> I haven't checked in on this thread in a long time, and Bud you've made great progress! The basement looks very nice.
> 
> 
> Any plans to upgrade that dining table to a proper card playing table?



Mr Welsh, thanks! Yes, I'm planning on building a poker table this fall or at least a top for that existing table. The next couple of weeks for me will be rather busy, so if all goes well, it'll be mid-October before I can start.


Bud


----------



## MikeMags

chinadog,


I was browsing all the great things you completed in your project. AWESOME!!


Question on the poster boxes. I may have missed this. Are the movie posters a special type. I would assume so, for light to emit through? If so, could you tell me where to find them.


Also I had a thought. I guess I could recess my light boxes in the 2x4 framing? Just to save some space. So in essence the "Guts" would be recessed and just the poster and frame are showing. I'm sure with all the talent in this site, this has probably been thought of.


Thanks for your help!!


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mike, welcome and thanks. Bears fan?










The posters are double sided posters (also known as DS posters). They're pretty easy to find online at allposters.com, movieposter.com, movieposters.com and of course eBay. I think recessed poster boxes would work fine, others have done them. I think you'd need to plan well before starting framing though. You'd have to build the interior "box" still, but use the side stud as the sides of the box. You'd want to still have some sort of backing to mount the lights to and protect them from nails or whatver coming through the back wall (in case you hand something). You'll want to run all your electric accordingly too. Definitely doable.


BTW, not sure I posted an index entry (first post) on where I got the posters from, but will shortly if that helps.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Mike, added an entry to the index in the products section, but I got my posters from http://movieposter.com/ 


BUd


----------



## MikeMags

Thanks Bud! I will be referring to your thread quite often.


Da Bears. Headed to the home opener on Sunday. I like the Chiefs as well. I think the Bears will prevail though.


Again, thanks for the quick response and already viewing posters. I also read you may be looking to build a poker table? I have a set of plans you could use. I built one from them and it came out great. Feel free to private message me and I could send you the plans along with some pictures of mine.


Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike, no problem, let me know if you have any questions about the boxes. You have a PM.


Bud


----------



## MikeMags

Now that I've been thinking about it more. If I ever decide to move I would like to take the Poster Boxes with me! So maybe recessing them more permanently is not the answer.


----------



## chinadog

Good thought!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott (SVonhof), been a while since I've done anything with this marquee. Do you think your printer buddy is still interested in printing it out for me? I think the same turned out great. No immediate rush, just let me know.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11665984
> 
> 
> Scott (SVonhof), been a while since I've done anything with this marquee. Do you think your printer buddy is still interested in printing it out for me? I think the same turned out great. No immediate rush, just let me know.
> 
> 
> Bud



I was wondering if you ever did anything with the marquee. I had not seen any images of a new one.


If you like what he did, I don't think he will have a problem doing it for you. Get me a full size image of what you want and I will shoot an e-mail to him. I don't go back to work until Monday, so I won't be able to talk to him or e-mail him until then.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/11688464
> 
> 
> I don't go back to work until Monday, so I won't be able to talk to him or e-mail him until then.



Scott,


Are you stuck in the Stone Age? You can't send him an email from home? How are you browsing AVS right now -- with carrier pigeon and a notepad?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11689968
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> Are you stuck in the Stone Age? You can't send him an email from home? How are you browsing AVS right now -- with carrier pigeon and a notepad?



Ouch!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/11688464
> 
> 
> I was wondering if you ever did anything with the marquee. I had not seen any images of a new one.
> 
> 
> If you like what he did, I don't think he will have a problem doing it for you. Get me a full size image of what you want and I will shoot an e-mail to him. I don't go back to work until Monday, so I won't be able to talk to him or e-mail him until then.



Thanks dude!


I have to verify a couple of things with my Photoshop guy here to see if he recommends anything before sending it off. That will take him a couple of days, I'm sure. I've got him very busy on other work things. Once I have that I'll send it off.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11689968
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> Are you stuck in the Stone Age? You can't send him an email from home? How are you browsing AVS right now -- with carrier pigeon and a notepad?



Well, let's see here. Um, yes.










The place I work uses a very outdated e-mail software system known as Eudora. I think it was one of the first e-mail programs out there and we don't have web e-mail available to us. Well, not that I know of. I am not really an employee there, so I may not have all the information I need. Let's see, the way it is, I am a contractor working for a company that runs a contract at a location where since we were not very busy and had more people than work, I am on loan to a different company. Hmm, strange.


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11690052
> 
> 
> Thanks dude!
> 
> 
> I have to verify a couple of things with my Photoshop guy here to see if he recommends anything before sending it off. That will take him a couple of days, I'm sure. I've got him very busy on other work things. Once I have that I'll send it off.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, shoot me an e-mail or a PM whenever you are ready.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/11690750
> 
> 
> Bud, shoot me an e-mail or a PM whenever you are ready.



Will do.


Here's sorta what I'm leaning towards, although I want the letters to have a little more depth. I think I'm stickin' with these colors though. One has the partial black background and the other a sky background with stars.


Anyone like one more than the other? Keeo in mind I'm gonna backlight this puppy. Sorry Big, I still like the red neon over the blue.



















Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott, BTW, saw your screen captures of the Masters. Ever been? If you every get the chance, even for a practice round, definitely worth it. I've been to four practice rounds and one Saturday during the tournament.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, out of the two, I like the second one, where the name of the theater is floating over the stars background.


I have never been to the Masters, it's a long way away for me being in California. I will make it someday though. I just got three sleeves of Titleist ProV Masters logo balls and two blank scorecards from a guy on another forum. I may buy a flag and a pic of Tiger or maybe Jack or something and frame them!


----------



## chinadog

Scott, go to the Masters website ( http://www.masters.org ) and go to the ticket area. There is an address where you just send them a letter requesting a practice round form. You fill it out and send it back and you get put into a lottery for practice round tickets. I've been selected twice, my dad once and a buddy of mine from San Mateo last year. You can get them on ebay, but the practice round tickets will run you close to 300.00 each. Anyway, once you get the form in, they send it to you every year.


I go for the course and the atmosphere, not the players per se. Incredible place just to walk around.


Here's a link to an album of photos I took at this past Masters:
http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/masters-07/ 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here's what it'll look like with lettering. Maybe I'll just hard code the lettering! How often will I actually change it? I also took out the black around the outer part of the sign and replaced it with that blue for a complete fade to black effect.











Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11697407
> 
> 
> Scott, go to the Masters website ( http://www.masters.org ) and go to the ticket area. There is an address where you just send them a letter requesting a practice round form. You fill it out and send it back and you get put into a lottery for practice round tickets. I've been selected twice, my dad once and a buddy of mine from San Mateo last year. You can get them on ebay, but the practice round tickets will run you close to 300.00 each. Anyway, once you get the form in, they send it to you every year.
> 
> 
> I go for the course and the atmosphere, not the players per se. Incredible place just to walk around.
> 
> 
> Here's a link to an album of photos I took at this past Masters:
> http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/masters-07/
> 
> 
> Bud




Strange that they need your SSN to get on the mailing list for this....


I am going to sign up and if I ever get tickets, I will take my bro-in-law with me. Thanks for the info!


----------



## accts4mjs

Bud, it looks like if you're going to do stars behind the letters you need a couple behind the "Blazing" and "Cinema" words (looks unbalanced).


Otherwise, I absolutely love it. Where are you getting it printed at? I need to get my "Theatre" sign printed and I'm not sure how/where to do it.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/11710647
> 
> 
> Strange that they need your SSN to get on the mailing list for this....



Scott, not sure either. I know they will only accept one application per household. If you get selected, it's always fun trying to find housing. You may have to stay on the east side of Atlanta and drive two hours out to Augusta in order to find anything reasonable....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Mike, didn't notice that until you pointed that out. I'll add a few. Scott Vonhof knows a printed who printed out a sample for me a while back and will try and hook up with him. Not sure what the material is called. I still have to check for what it looks like with light behind it.


The PSD file is large (18M+), but I can probably still email it if you PM me your email address.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11714549
> 
> 
> The PSD file is large (18M+), but I can probably still email it if you PM me your email address.
> 
> 
> Bud



You might check out http://www.yousendit.com . It is a FREE service to send large files. I've been using it for over a year now without any trouble.


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, I can't get tickets for 2008 as they have closed the list for that already. But I will send my info anyway and if I have to, I will camp out on your porch and drive there early in the morning!


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


Right, I think the application needs to be in by July 30th or something and they notify in the fall for the next tournament. If you get tickets and need a place to stay, don't hesitate to let me know. You're welcome to stay. We're about 2.5 to 3.0 hours away, depending at the time you leave in the morning. Oh, and I know all the roads NOT to take in Augusta to get to the gates.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11714586
> 
> 
> You might check out http://www.yousendit.com . It is a FREE service to send large files. I've been using it for over a year now without any trouble.



Cool, thanks Steve, that will come in handy.


----------



## chinadog

Here is the latest with Mike's tweaks for the stars, I added a more three dimensional look to the letters and made the background slightly bigger to accommodate the overlap of the edges for the light box.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Mike, I messed around a little with the lettering after I sent the PSD. I'll resend. I did a quick one for here. You'd have to adjust the stars a little, maybe change the font and/or the coloring. Of course, I'm not sure what your want your theater name either, but now you can modify at will.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott, Just looking at the backing that that the sample was printed on for the marquee. I'm curious if the front part pulls off the paper backing. If you hold it up to the light, you can actually see light through it, which is what I'd like, but the white area allows the paper manufacturer info on the back to also come through it. It says "Orajet digital printing media" on the back. Maybe you can ask your friend if it can pull apart and if not if there is another option. I plan on using the same white plexiglass that I used for the light boxes as a diffuser and can use a clear piece to sandwich it. I wonder also if he can do double side printing on a paper that size? I could just treat it like a big 2x6 poster. The other question is shipping it. I would think it would have to be rolled and tubed. I'd have to figure out the letter thing then, too.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11718599
> 
> 
> Mike, I messed around a little with the lettering after I sent the PSD. I'll resend. I did a quick one for here. You'd have to adjust the stars a little, maybe change the font and/or the coloring. Of course, I'm not sure what your want your theater name either, but now you can modify at will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


That's awesome!! I was originally going to just do something simple like this:











But now I'm not so sure. I never considered doing something as cool as what you have done for me since I'm not that talented with stuff like that







One thing's for sure I'm 100% going to use it for my DVD player background (when it boots up for example).


Thanks a million!

Mike


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11720186
> 
> 
> Scott, Just looking at the backing that that the sample was printed on for the marquee. I'm curious of the front part pulls off the paper backing. If you hold it up to the link, you can actually see light through it, which is what I'd like, but the white area allows the paper manufacturer info on the back to also come through it. It says "Orajet digital printing media" on the back. Maybe you can ask your friend if it can pull apart and if not if there is another option. I plan on using the same white plexiglass that I used for the light boxes as a diffuser and can use a clear piece to sandwich it. I wonder also if he can do double side printing on a paper that size? I could just treat it like a big 2x6 poster. The other question is shipping it. I would think it would have to be rolled and tubed. I'd have to figure out the letter then, too.
> 
> 
> Bud



I don't know if he can do double sided printing, probably not, but I will check. Also, the vinyl is made to be removed from the backing and applied to whatever surface you want. There are tricks to doing that and most beginners need to use the tips, talking with Jeff in the past, when he applies the vinyl to cars and such, he doesn't use any of those tricks as he has done it a whole bunch of times. BTW, he does the wraps for cars that you can see driving around advertizing things, but mainly he does the graphics that go onto race cars as he is a racer himself.


I will get back to you on the double sided printing and see if he can come up with a tip sheet on how to apply the vinyl without having any issues like bubbles or wrinkles.


----------



## accts4mjs

Scott, thanks for offering to help out with tips on applying these vinyl sheets. I'm going to be doing something just like it and will need to know too.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, I like the extra stars in the letering. I would probably add 2 more in Blazing and maybe 1 more in Ridge...


But I am very asymetrical, and 2-3-4 would bug me...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accts4mjs* /forum/post/11721570
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> That's awesome!! I was originally going to just do something simple like this:
> 
> 
> But now I'm not so sure. I never considered doing something as cool as what you have done for me since I'm not that talented with stuff like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing's for sure I'm 100% going to use it for my DVD player background (when it boots up for example).
> 
> 
> Thanks a million!
> 
> Mike



Mike, no problem. If you prefer, I can just make some updates for you, just PM me with the details and if you just want a jpg, I can generate that.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/11723834
> 
> 
> I don't know if he can do double sided printing, probably not, but I will check. Also, the vinyl is made to be removed from the backing and applied to whatever surface you want. There are tricks to doing that and most beginners need to use the tips, talking with Jeff in the past, when he applies the vinyl to cars and such, he doesn't use any of those tricks as he has done it a whole bunch of times. BTW, he does the wraps for cars that you can see driving around advertizing things, but mainly he does the graphics that go onto race cars as he is a racer himself.
> 
> 
> I will get back to you on the double sided printing and see if he can come up with a tip sheet on how to apply the vinyl without having any issues like bubbles or wrinkles.



Not critical on the double sided stuff, was thinking that there may be issues with light through the backing. I'm thinking I can use the vinyl on white plexiglass then and that would help solve the removable lettering problem. Oh, I'll need the tips for sure!


I see those vehicles all over Atlanta, I aways wondered if people got paid to drive around with that stuff on or if the owner of the business did it himself. That stuff isn't cheap either!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/11724807
> 
> 
> Bud, I like the extra stars in the letering. I would probably add 2 more in Blazing and maybe 1 more in Ridge...
> 
> 
> But I am very asymetrical, and 2-3-4 would bug me...



Thanks for the input. I'm like that as well, it was a late night though. I'll take another look.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11726619
> 
> 
> I see those vehicles all over Atlanta, I aways wondered if people got paid to drive around with that stuff on or if the owner of the business did it himself. That stuff isn't cheap either!
> 
> 
> Bud



A buddy of mine needed a new car. He went to a local dealer and they told him about their "wrap" program. They were looking for people with long commutes and his is something like 85 miles each way, so he qualified. He ended up buying a Kia somethingorother at a great price (basic car) and then because of the wrap, he brings the car to the dealer when he needs gas and they fill it up for him each time, for 2 years. He did the math and with 2 years of driving 170 miles, it was like $11000 in gas he got for free. It wasn't always convienent, as he had to go to the dealer, so sometimes, he would pay for it on his own, but they got advertizing and he got free gas.


----------



## chinadog

Pretty funny. I spend somewhere in the 300.00 per month range on my commute now. I get four trips downtown and back on a tank of gas. Pretty awful gas mileage, but can't give up the truck. We're attached at the hip.










Bud


----------



## jjmj427

Bud,


I just want to say that the level of craftsmanship and detail that you have put into your basement is INCREDIBLE and it shows in all the pictures of your build!!!


I have my own sorta blog going on my build on the Hometheaterforum.com, which is where I saw your post for your theater build. I have spent the last 2 and 1/2 days pouring through your thread and can honestly say that I hope my room will turn out half as good as yours.


I am basically going through the same type build as you did, with finishing out the whole basement. I am going on a year in October since I have started construction on the basement. Here is a link to my thread:
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/...d.php?t=257672 


I am thinking of starting up my thread on this forum. People seem to be more interactive with comments or suggestions along with getting a response to questions that you might have. Don't get me wrong the people are great on that forum, I am also looking for more input. Enough on that, I don't want to look like I am trying to hijack your thread.


Do you mind if I use some of your ideas for the theater room? Your designs look very well thought out for all the items that you made yourself and looks like you hired a professional!


I bought the insteon switches and software also along with the harmony 1000, so I may be asking you some questions, if you don't mind of course.


Your build has a lot of good information and I am sure that it will help many people with theirs!


Again, Congrats on your build!


Cheers,

JJ


----------



## chinadog

Hey JJ, welcome over to this side of the world! Thanks for the kind words. I took a quick glance of your thread and it looks like its your making some good progress. I'll go back and read it in detail this weekend.


AVS is a great place to be, there are a lot of knowledgable people here. If you start a thread, you'll have a large audience to tap into for questions and answers.


Help yourself to any ideas here, but promise if you improve the design that you'll post them here! This way we all learn something.


I haven't played with the H1000, but since it uses the same software, shouldn't be much of an issue.


Bud


----------



## jjmj427

I will probably start a thread sometime this weekend and put all the highlights of the build up on this site.



> Quote:
> *Bud wrote:*
> _Help yourself to any ideas here, but promise if you improve the design that you'll post them here! This way we all learn something._



I sure will!


I am looking forward to getting to know you all better and feel like I sorta do already from reading through the whole thread!


Cheers,

JJ


----------



## chinadog

accts4mjs -


Hey Mike, I downloaded some new fonts the other night including some deco type fonts, so if you want me to mess with your marquee some with the new fonts, let me know.


Bud


----------



## BFauska

I don't know anything about your printing source, and don't want to try to convince anybody to not use him, but it seems like a private hookup, and if anybody wanted to get something similar printed there is a great company many people in the arcade/MAME hobby use for back-lit marquees similar to what your doing for your theater. I just looked at the pricing and for a small sign (12"x23") the price is about $16 and you can go as big as 18"x33" for $35. It is made for back-lighting and is praised over at the BYOAC arcade controls forum. 


The company is called mamemarquees they advertise all their products for use on arcade machines, but it would work great for this. For back-lit signs and stuff look at the customer designed marquees.


I hope this doesn't seem out of place, I'll try to check back soon so I can modify or remove the post if you'd like Bud (or any mods, but I don't think the link should be a problem since they don't sell competing products.)


I haven't been around this forum much in the last year or so, but whenever I stop by I have to check out your thread Bud, and I am always amazed at the craftsmanship of your projects and the friendly-helpfulness of your posts. Keep up the great work.


----------



## chinadog

Brian, thanks for the post and the kind words.


I'm trying to go large with the marquee (24x60) this time around, but I know others in another thread that are looking for options for smaller marquees and other backlit options, so that was helpful. Maybe I'll order a smaller one just to check out how it would come out. 16.00 is pretty cheap.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, FYI, I got a message from Jeff yesterday saying he was back (I assume from vacation) and to call him about your marquee. I didn't have time yesterday though. Maybe today.


----------



## chinadog

Scott, got your email today, just didn't have a chance to respond. Tuesdays are "meeting day" for me. I'll reply tomorrow. Thanks for the info.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11773613
> 
> 
> accts4mjs -
> 
> 
> Hey Mike, I downloaded some new fonts the other night including some deco type fonts, so if you want me to mess with your marquee some with the new fonts, let me know.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


That's awesome! I'll get some measurements of my box and maybe a slight mockup for you. Hopefully I'll get some time to work on that tonight.


Thanks!

Mike


----------



## chinadog

Mike,


Sounds good. Lemme know.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Today was "Father and son paint the shed day". It was somewhat fun. It's been back burnered for some time. Got the roof shingles on too. Now I need to get the shelves and the door hardware on it. That'll take another two weeks at least....











No comments on the mustard color, not sure what the heck I was thinking. It's just too bright for a shed.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Your son will always remember working on that shed with his Dad. My three sons still bring up stuff we did together. Simple tasks that you would never guess they would remember. Shed looks great.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

I remember building a canoe in the basement with my Dad. Early in the process when a few of the framing members were just screwed together I asked if he thought the thing was going to make it up the stairs. (tight turn at top)


It wouldn't. We finished it in the garage.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/11846942
> 
> 
> Your son will always remember working on that shed with his Dad. My three sons still bring up stuff we did together. Simple tasks that you would never guess they would remember. Shed looks great.



You're right. Hopefully he won't remember me freaking out about getting paint everywhere!


It's funny, my Dad was never really handy at all, so we never built anything together. I got all that talent from my grandfather on my Mom's side. He passed when I was 7. He built cabinets, fixed watches and radios, made a bunch of furniture and other things. I remember always going into the basement in their house and he had tools and stuff everywhere. Good memories there. Since my Dad wasn't handy, my brother ended up with all his tools. Go figure.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/11847229
> 
> 
> I remember building a canoe in the basement with my Dad. Early in the process when a few of the framing members were just screwed together I asked if he thought the thing was going to make it up the stairs. (tight turn at top)
> 
> 
> It wouldn't. We finished it in the garage.



Man, a canoe would be really cool. What ever happened to it?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just got back from a long weekend in the North Georgia mountains. We rented a cabin in Blue Ridge and had a blast. In Blue Ridge is one of only three remaining drive-in movies left in Georgia, called "The Swan", so we took the kids and dogs Friday night. What a great time! Here's a link to the Swan Drive-in theater. Oh, we left after the first flick, in case you were wondering.



















































The cabin itself was pretty amazing as were the views. It was called "Above the Clouds" and we rented it through Blue Sky Cabin rentals. The pano I put together was with Autostitch.



































The whole trip album is here:
http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ga-mountain-trip-2007/ 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So not sure if this was a marketing ploy or not. Not too long ago I upgraded to Tiger Woods '08 for the 360. I've been doing the skills challenge and got to the point where every time I tried to play against a pro, the system would lock up. After some investigation, I discovered there was a bug in thr software, but the only way to get the patch is through XBox Live! Man! 60.00 for the game, then I had to get the wireless adapter and the live subscription (another 140.00 to fix the damn bug)? What a racket!


I need to get a wireless bridge, so I have network access to the rack. I could hardwire it since I ran all the cabling, but would require some additonal network cleanup on my part. In the meantime the Xbox wireless adapter will do.


The whole networking thing is pretty cool, should have done this before. Working on the Game Face pics for TW08 too. Anyone else up for a round of golf some night?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Man, could I tell you some stories about my youth at the DriveIn!


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11946507
> 
> 
> So not sure if this was a marketing ploy or not. Not too long ago I upgraded to Tiger Woods '08 for the 360. I've been doing the skills challenge and got to the point where every time I tried to play against a pro, the system would lock up. After some investigation, I discovered there was a bug in thr software, but the only way to get the patch is through XBox Live! Man! 60.00 for the game, then I had to get the wireless adapter and the live subscription (another 140.00 to fix the damn bug)? What a racket!
> 
> 
> I need to get a wireless bridge, so I have network access to the rack. I could hardwire it since I ran all the cabling, but would require some additonal network cleanup on my part. In the meantime the Xbox wireless adapter will do.
> 
> 
> The whole networking thing is pretty cool, should have done this before. Working on the Game Face pics for TW08 too. Anyone else up for a round of golf some night?
> 
> 
> Bud



I just got a 360. I mainly wanted it so i could stream all my pictures, video, mp3's, etc. to the TV. It works great. I can play anything I have on my computer on the TV. You can do this as well. Do you have media center PC? Also, be sure to download TVersity which will let you do this.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I still go to the drive in every year. Really enjoy that. This pic is when we took my daughter over the summer 2006. She wrestled with my wife through cars and then slept through Superman. This year she did better and watched Ratatoule, but was awake and prevented us from staying for Transformers.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/11946640
> 
> 
> Man, could I tell you some stories about my youth at the DriveIn!



I've got a few wild ones myself. Good times them were!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jasonn B* /forum/post/11946803
> 
> 
> I just got a 360. I mainly wanted it so i could stream all my pictures, video, mp3's, etc. to the TV. It works great. I can play anything I have on my computer on the TV. You can do this as well. Do you have media center PC? Also, be sure to download TVersity which will let you do this.



I don't have a Media Center PC at the moment. Contemplating buying/building a media PC though. Just not there yet. Pretty cool what you're doing though, got it integrated with that 890 yet?










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/11947129



Too cute! I hear there is one in Atlanta as well, called the Starlight. Need to look into it.


Bud


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11950581
> 
> 
> I don't have a Media Center PC at the moment. Contemplating buying/building a media PC though. Just not there yet. Pretty cool what you're doing though, got it integrated with that 890 yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



I don't have a media center either. Download TVersity, it's awesome. Yep, 890 does it too.


----------



## chinadog

Cool, I'll check it out.


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11946507
> 
> 
> So not sure if this was a marketing ploy or not. Not too long ago I upgraded to Tiger Woods '08 for the 360. I've been doing the skills challenge and got to the point where every time I tried to play against a pro, the system would lock up. After some investigation, I discovered there was a bug in thr software, but the only way to get the patch is through XBox Live! Man! 60.00 for the game, then I had to get the wireless adapter and the live subscription (another 140.00 to fix the damn bug)? What a racket!
> 
> 
> Bud



Need to pick up a PS3!! Free online access!!


----------



## chinadog

Sean,


Got to get the Wii first for the kiddies before moving on the the PS3, but thats good to know!


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb

Bud,

I like the panoramic shot you created with Autostitch. Did you use a tripod to line up the shots better or were you able to do that handheld?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Handheld, just stood still and rotated around. Autostitch takes care of my flaws! I had to crop out the picture once it was generated, it leaves a lot of black around the picture where it can't fill it in.


Here's another one with morning fog:












Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jasonn B* /forum/post/11951131
> 
> 
> I don't have a media center either. Download TVersity, it's awesome. Yep, 890 does it too.



Got this installed yesterday. Does work well. Still playing around with it some, but at first glance, seems pretty cool. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## johnson_sb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11960790
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Handheld, just stood still and rotated around. Autostitch takes care of my flaws! I had to crop out the picture once it was generated, it leaves a lot of black around the picture where it can't fill it in.
> 
> 
> Here's another one with morning fog:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



That's a very cool shot!


----------



## mbgonzomd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11946507
> 
> 
> What a racket!



Yep, just boxed my 360 up to send back to get repaired. The red circle of death error. I am really enjoying my PS3, however.


----------



## Gerry S

I've been using TVersity with my PS3 - works great. But have you guys noticed it is a bit of a resource hog?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gerry S* /forum/post/11974206
> 
> 
> I've been using TVersity with my PS3 - works great. But have you guys noticed it is a bit of a resource hog?



No more than Itunes.










Bud


----------



## MaximAvs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11960790
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Handheld, just stood still and rotated around. Autostitch takes care of my flaws! I had to crop out the picture once it was generated, it leaves a lot of black around the picture where it can't fill it in.
> 
> 
> Here's another one with morning fog:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Did you take this picture with that Sony DSC-W80?!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/12001390
> 
> 
> Did you take this picture with that Sony DSC-W80?!!



Acutally its the Sony DSC-W55, but it was like four pictures that Autostitch put together:

http://images29.fotki.com/v333/photo...00_2903-vi.jpg 
http://images30.fotki.com/v473/photo...00_2904-vi.jpg 
http://images28.fotki.com/v1031/phot...00_2905-vi.jpg 
http://images29.fotki.com/v334/photo...SC00519-vi.jpg 


Autostitch also scaled it down to 10% of the original size, but that's configurable.


More info about Autostitch here.
 


Bud


----------



## MaximAvs

Very cool!!


And very nice pictures as well!!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/11714586
> 
> 
> You might check out http://www.yousendit.com . It is a FREE service to send large files. I've been using it for over a year now without any trouble.



Steve, I've used this a couple of times now.... works well. Thanks for posting!


Bud


----------



## calv1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11946507
> 
> 
> Working on the Game Face pics for TW08 too. Anyone else up for a round of golf some night?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I'll play a round or two with you some night. I haven't picked up the 08 yet (still working on 07 and I have 06) but I'll add it to my collection soon.

Gamertag is CaLv1n1


On a side note I answered your question on the thresholds in the other construction thread sorry I missed it till now I was working away and didn't visit the thread until recently.


Cheers

Calvin


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calv1n* /forum/post/12330196
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I'll play a round or two with you some night. I haven't picked up the 08 yet (still working on 07 and I have 06) but I'll add it to my collection soon.
> 
> Gamertag is CaLv1n1
> 
> 
> On a side note I answered your question on the thresholds in the other construction thread sorry I missed it till now I was working away and didn't visit the thread until recently.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Calvin



You're on! Send me a PM when you think you'll be on and when.


Saw the response, thanks. It was what I expected, I'm still debating if I want to add a threshold or not. Sounds leakage is not a real problem with my setup, although sometimes I hold back on crankin' her up jsut in case.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Hey Bud!


Any new projects going on? When are you going to start that star ceiling?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy,


Hee hee ....


I've got my marquee done from photoshop standpoint, but that's about it. Haven't sent it out to be printed. I'm thinking about the star ceiling in the March timeframe.


From a work-work standpoint, I'm busy. we're trying to wrapup the changes to site for the Primaries and we're still fine tuning mockups. The development team is cranking out pages as fast as they can to be tested, but it'll be up to the wire. I'll be working through my scheduled holiday vacation at the end of the month due to the tight timeline.


In January, I'm hoping to start painting upstairs (kids room, family room, foyer, kitchen) so we'll see how that goes. I also need to go back and study up on the poker table thing.


Anything exciting on your end?


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Bud, did Jeff ever get back to you about printing the marquee?


----------



## HeyNow^

As a matter of fact there is.....I finished mocking up three 4X8 foot star panels. The day before Thanksgiving I took 1/8 inch hardboard and fir'd the perimeter with 1X2s wrapped that with black Celtic cloth and punched the fibers through. I have 96 stars in each of the 32 square foot panel. I used EG Pack 48 fiber. I have used 70 feet of it and hope that's going to be long enough. I got the CoolSky LED unit. It was fun. All I have to do now is fir the ceiling and nail them up.


I also replaced the wood stove with a gas fireplace. The gas company that did the install absolutely SUCKED. They were amateurs. Long story ....I won't thread crap here explaining what happened. Now I have to design a surround to make it look like a fireplace. I did get version one framed up this weekend, but it's coming down. Too big. I have to start finishing one project before I begin the next. I am a one man band and at times it's overwhelming.


Good luck Bud!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/12457529
> 
> 
> Bud, did Jeff ever get back to you about printing the marquee?



Scott, I haven't send him the marquee yet, so there was not need to. It's done, I just have to get off my ass. I'll try and get it done tonight.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Randy, have you posted any pictures of your panels anywhere? 4x8? Did you use an insulation board? I've gone through some of the sky ceiling threads, but don't recall any pictures. Love to see them.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

No, I have not taken any pics yet. I can still do that. My finished star ceiling will be 8X12. Each panel is a full sheet of 4X8 hardboard (pegboard without the holes







) I have the three panels sitting in the spare room. I plan on trimming out the edges with some nice molding. I'll get the camera out and snap a few and post them on the bar thread to keep things tidy.


----------



## chinadog

That would be great. I assume you framed out the hardboard so there is no sagging. I have like a 9x10 area, so I have to figure out if I'm gogin to piece it together or do a coffered look (leaning this way), but have to deal with the cans in the ceiling too, hence the delay of pushing it forward. Need to whip out a clean slate in MS Paint!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Yes, I framed the entire perimeter and put one as a cross brace in the middle. Should be enough to prevent sag. I'm going to try and use 2 1/2 inch finish nails (18 gauge) so they will go through the fabric. I know that Ruben did this and he used a heavier board material. SO I am hoping I'll be ok. I'll find out! I need to rent a drywall lift to position the panels by myself. I'm going to remove the ceiling fan and put two cans on the side of the star panels. So the cans will be 9 feet apart.


----------



## carboranadum

Randy:


I'm very interested in your build...particularly your star ceiling. I'm in Winchester, not too far away, and I would like to have the starfield ceiling too. Please post photos as you are able.


Thanks for the posts sharing your great build.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Jason and I were talking about my ceiling a little while ago and we'll (he's gonna help) probably startup sometime in the March timeframe, so when you start posting pictures, let me know. I'll have many questions for both you and Steve. Are you posting in your thread or one of the star ceiling threads?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Carbo/Bud,


I'm just going to add to my build in my link. I'm going to post some pics of my fireplace so I can get some expert advice on how to build the surround also. You guys are motivating me to get to this very soon....


----------



## chinadog

Great! Looking forward to checking it out.


Bud


----------



## Mr. Welsh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11950596
> 
> 
> Too cute! I hear there is one in Atlanta as well, called the Starlight. Need to look into it.
> 
> 
> Bud



There's a big one off Moreland Ave. south of Atlanta. I drove by it almost every day for a few months for work, but never went by at night. It's not in a good area.


----------



## chinadog

Thats the same one, haven't been there though.

http://www.starlightdrivein.com/ 


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott, you probably saw my emails this AM, but just an FYI that Jeff did reply today, although I think he forgot to copy you. Anyway, we'll see how it looks when its done. I guess I need to get with Jason and have some plexiglass ordered in preparation for when he's done with the marquee.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

I did see the original e-mail and he did not CC me when he replied. No biggie though and I am not at work, so I may have an e-mail on my work computer when I get in next week.


I hope everything works to your satisfaction!


----------



## chinadog

I'm sure it'll be fine, I'm glad its moving forward again.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Been playing with the first reflection tool that Jeff put together. It can be found here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=822273 


I was curious how it worked and its pretty cool. Here is how my room turned out using measurements off the top of my head. Since I used Bryan (bpape) and the whole room is treated, I just wanted to check it out.











I do have a general question for Bpape though if you're out there. Bryan, once you know what the reflection points are, and say people want to make their panels, how does one decide which sound absorption materials to use? I'm also curious how this plays into the construction of my star ceiling. Maybe I'll use OC703 rather than hardboard or something?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I used this to try and analyze my room. I could not figure out what the hell I was looking at! I put OC703 2X4 panels on one of my walls and it made a terrific difference. I kept in mind the mirror trick when I placed them.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


It took me a little while to get it working, had to install some DLLs. Once I had that it was pretty straightforward. You just have to mouse over the different slides to get the tool tip to know what it is you're looking at. Zooming and panning took a minute to get, too.


Bud


----------



## jord

Hey Bud,


I just wanted to say thanks! I happened upon a link to your cinema build in a forum months ago, and I've been browsing hundreds of posts here ever since. Your cinema is quite amazing and I want to thank you for drawing me into such a great community.


Thanks!


jared


----------



## chinadog

Hey Jared, welcome to the forum and thanks for the reply. Lemma know if you have any questions.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

*Happy Holidays everyone!*


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Hope you and the family had a great Holiday!


----------



## chinadog

Randy, thanks. I hope you did too. We did have a great day today. Kids got a Wii and they've been at it all day. I think I need to buy a component switch just for the game consoles!


Bud


----------



## sdspga




> Quote:
> Kids got a Wii and they've been at it all day.



A quick piece of advice....USE THE WRISTSTRAPS!! Kids got one and playing the very first game of baseball, my daughter threw the remote right into the wall. Fortunately the remote lived to play on. Happy Holidays, Bud.


Scott


----------



## Big Worms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/12585691
> 
> 
> A quick piece of advice....USE THE WRISTSTRAPS!! Kids got one and playing the very first game of baseball, my daughter threw the remote right into the wall. Fortunately the remote lived to play on. Happy Holidays, Bud.
> 
> 
> Scott



Get the updated one also is the second advise.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdspga* /forum/post/12585691
> 
> 
> A quick piece of advice....USE THE WRISTSTRAPS!! Kids got one and playing the very first game of baseball, my daughter threw the remote right into the wall. Fortunately the remote lived to play on. Happy Holidays, Bud.
> 
> 
> Scott



Happy Holidays to you too. I had visions of this. I keep reminding my daughter to use them, but you never know...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Worms* /forum/post/12585875
> 
> 
> Get the updated one also is the second advise.



The updated one? With the rubber glove?


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

The rubber gloves were free via the Nintendo site. I don't know if they come in the box with a new Wii. My Wii was purchased in April, and I filled out a form on the Nintendo site and they mailed me 4 new gloves.


----------



## mrpergo

I picked up a Wii for the Grandkids to play when they're over (and me







)

I got a Pelican system selector pro 2.0 for 54.00 at Amazon and it works great.

It has 5 component inputs, 3 toslink and 3 coaxial audio & 3 lan hookups

As a plus, it works with my Harmony 880


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/12587112
> 
> 
> The rubber gloves were free via the Nintendo site. I don't know if they come in the box with a new Wii. My Wii was purchased in April, and I filled out a form on the Nintendo site and they mailed me 4 new gloves.



We did get the rubber glove with the controller included. I bought a second one through Amazon, no glove. I did get the controller recharger, which includes the rechargeable batteries, holder and new back covers for the controllers (have holes in them to allow you get make a connection to charge the batteries), The Back covers have some rubber on them, but the glove is much better. The glove won't work with the recharging station though. I'll take a few pictures later.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/12588402
> 
> 
> I picked up a Wii for the Grandkids to play when they're over (and me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I got a Pelican system selector pro 2.0 for 54.00 at Amazon and it works great.
> 
> It has 5 component inputs, 3 toslink and 3 coaxial audio & 3 lan hookups
> 
> As a plus, it works with my Harmony 880



I've have to check that out. I did look briefly yesterday at one on monoprice, but it did not support many audio options. Thanks for the tip!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/12588402
> 
> 
> I got a Pelican system selector pro 2.0 for 54.00 at Amazon and it works great.It has 5 component inputs, 3 toslink and 3 coaxial audio & 3 lan hookups As a plus, it works with my Harmony 880



I ordered one of these puppies this morning. Thanks for the info. I'll post results after it arrives.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh, I also rejoined the membership here as a means of supporting the forum. I also know that some of you missed my face...










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is my wireless Wii sensor bar solution, figured I'd post it here and its similar to Bigs. I used hardboard and spray painted it black, then put it between the GOM center panel and the screen.



























The sensor bar was purchased at Amazon and works pretty well. You just need to remember to turn it off.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12589310
> 
> 
> Oh, I also rejoined the membership here as a means of supporting the forum. I also know that some of you missed my face...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



THE Dome has returned....(two of my three sons are Chrome Domes)


----------



## tleavit

Lol! I bought my kids a Wii to for XMAS and all 4 of use are VERY sore from playing that thing all day long. Even my 7 year old was hurting lol.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/12593711
> 
> 
> THE Dome has returned....(two of my three sons are Chrome Domes)



Yes.... domeier than ever, I suppose!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tleavit* /forum/post/12593731
> 
> 
> Lol! I bought my kids a Wii to for XMAS and all 4 of use are VERY sore from playing that thing all day long. Even my 7 year old was hurting lol.



I haven't played much, just not my thing I guess. Kids are playing as I type. I'll stick to Tiger Woods 08 on the 360!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12593749
> 
> 
> Yes.... domeier than ever, I suppose!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



The Forum is now whole again....!


----------



## chinadog

BTW, monoprice has a bunch of Wii stuff, including the HD cables for 4.00! *EDIT ( I think its 6.00 actually)*










http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


and a bunch of skins for the controllers:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...rd=wii&x=0&y=0 


Bud


----------



## Big Worms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12586533
> 
> 
> The updated one? With the rubber glove?
> 
> 
> Bud



Yep. Go to their web site. You can request them there for free.


----------



## chinadog

Got it, but looks like its based on serial number now. Says soemthing about units shipped by end of year 2006 are eligible.


Bud


----------



## tleavit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12594926
> 
> 
> BTW, monoprice has a bunch of Wii stuff, including the HD cables for 4.00!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> and a bunch of skins for the controllers:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...rd=wii&x=0&y=0
> 
> 
> Bud



OOO! thx, wouldnt have thought to look there for Wii cables and I need some!


----------



## oman321

 http://www.nintendo.com/wii/what/accessories/zapper 


I highly recommend the Wii Zapper... It comes with Links crossbow game for 20 bucks. it has something like 10 levels with 3 stages in each level. Worth the money for the zapper or the game by themselves. Bought it for my son for christmas it was the first thing he played with. Read many reviews for different shooting accessories, most if not all recommend the zapper over the others.


Monoprice accesories and skins are great for the price. Last year we bought skins for only the controller for 10 bucks, this year I got 3 sets of skins for controller and nunchuck for 10 bucks. Also picked up the 2 remote charger from monoprice best price by far from anywhere else, I highly recommend it as the wii remotes simply rip through batteries.


----------



## chinadog

Cool. Thanks, will look into the Zapper. Looks like monoprice has the sports pack for only 11.00 too!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

How on earth does Monoprice do it?


----------



## chinadog

Five letter word .... China (I bet).


Bud


----------



## coastalb55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12603550
> 
> 
> Five letter word .... China (I bet).
> 
> 
> Bud



I was at their warehouse on Monday picking up a cable for my dad (parents live only a few miles up the street), and judging by everyone who works there I would have to say that is probably true.


Andy


----------



## jikkjack

Merry Christamas and Happy New Year Bud!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/12607564
> 
> 
> Merry Christamas and Happy New Year Bud!



You too, dude!


Bud


----------



## mprusak

I'd be interested in picking up extra power adapters for the wii. I don't see where monoprice has them. You guys know of any good places to pick these up? I see target has them for $30...seems pricey.


Mark.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Mark,


Power adapter? As in a second AC power adapter?


Bud


----------



## mprusak

yep, extra power cord...makes it easier to move from one room to the other.


see some on ebay for about $15 with shipping from hong kong. just wonder if there is any concerns on quality and could they possibly damage the unit.


btw, I hope to start my lighted poster frames this week and plan to follow your method closely. this is a project I have been looking forward to for a while. only difference is mine will (hopefully) be hinged, as they will serve as doors to 1) a crawl space and 2) the electric panel.


thanks,

Mark


----------



## chinadog

Mark, take a look here:

http://gameasylum.us/niwiiacpoada.html 
http://www.amazon.com/AC-Power-Adapt.../dp/B000PS58JA 


Good deal on the poster boxes. Make sure you post some pictures. Let me know if you have any questions too.


Bud


----------



## hltr

Wife camped out in line every morning for six days to get a wii for daughter and myself. We've been having a blast.


480p makes a nice difference imo.


Hey, wanted to post a pic of my brother's bar that we just finished. Well, still have to finish the AV as you'll see, but the bar is done.











Top is solid 3/4 cherry, with solid cherry bar rail.


By the way, if anyone needs a mounting solution for plasma when your studs are not centered in the opening, send me a PM.


Hope I'm not hijacking too much c-dog.


----------



## chinadog

Man, your bar came out great! Can you get a close up picture of the top of the bar? Looks mighty shiny!


Bud


----------



## hltr

This shot is not so good, but it's the only other I have for now:


----------



## chinadog

Pretty sweet! ou're going to enjoy that for some time!


Bud


----------



## hltr

Thanks Bud. It's my bro's bar but I'll be stopping over plenty.


----------



## chinadog

*HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
*

Picked up one of these Saturday.







Needed a commute car, the gas mileage on the truck is killing me! The truck will get garaged.











It's a 2008 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L in Polished Metal Metallic with Ivory leather .


More pictures here:
http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/2008-honda-coupe-ex/ 


Bud


----------



## smdavis1004

I am working on a downstairs bar area as well that looks curved like the one above. I have no idea how to go about constructing a bar on my own without some pictures. Does anyone have a link that may help?


Thank you,

Stephen


----------



## chinadog

Stephen, take a look at my bar photos, maybe that'll help. You should also take a look at Randy's (^HeyNow) thread.


Here's my bar photo album: http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear..._cinema-1/bar/ 


Here's Randy's thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7063759 


Welcome to the forum!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12650059
> 
> *HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
> *
> 
> Picked up one of these Saturday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed a commute car, the gas mileage on the truck is killing me! The truck will get garaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a 2008 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L in Polished Metal Metallic with Ivory leather .
> 
> 
> More pictures here:
> http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/2008-honda-coupe-ex/
> 
> 
> Bud



Garages are for vehicles? I can only get ONE in ours!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/12650827
> 
> 
> Garages are for vehicles? I can only get ONE in ours!



Believe me, its a struggle here as well. You can pull in, just can't open the doors... you have to crawl out through the windows!










Bud


----------



## smdavis1004

thanks for the help with the bar. You have done a great deal to help me with my own theater and downstairs remodeling.


----------



## chinadog

Stephen, no problem. Let me know if you have any questions. I updated my post to include the bar album, the site is back up.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12650059
> 
> *HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
> *
> 
> Picked up one of these Saturday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed a commute car, the gas mileage on the truck is killing me! The truck will get garaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a 2008 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L in Polished Metal Metallic with Ivory leather .
> 
> 
> More pictures here:
> http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/2008-honda-coupe-ex/
> 
> 
> Bud



Ha ha! I know you needed new tires for the truck but I didn't think that meant a new vehicle sitting on top of the new tires.


----------



## chinadog

New year, new tires, new car... too many new things to think about. Still need the tires on the truck though ...


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I guess it's a matter of time now before I buy that BD player (or PS3)..... especially if I can get a company discount!


Click on this: * WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT TO RELEASE ITS HIGH-DEFINITION DVD TITLES EXCLUSIVELY IN THE BLU-RAY DISC FORMAT BEGINNING LATER THIS YEAR *


Oh, and anyone check out the Iowa Caucus results on CNN.com last night?










Bud


----------



## chinadog

As mrpergo suggested, I ordered, received and installed my Pelican Score System Selector Pro 2.0 from Amazon to connect the Wii, XBox 360 and whatever other game console comes along.











Had it working in no time and works well. I did however get stumped when I couldn't get audio from the Wii, but I got that figured out by ready the manual! I have the 360 connected to the switcher via component and optical and from the switcher to the receiver via component and optical. When I connected the Wii, I used the "HD" cable, which is component and a LR RCA connection. That was the problem. The switch won't convert the video or audio inputs to other types. In other words, it won't take LR RCA inputs and convert them to optical outputs. Once I realized this, I just connnect LR RCA connects to the same DTV audio LR inputs on the receiver and that was it. I believe the audio input is auto detected, so not changes on the receiver side.


Pretty nice little swtich. I was able to also define the label of the channel, so channel one says "XBOX 360" and the other says "N-64". No Wii option, but had a bunch of others including all the PS1, PS2, PS3 options plus more. You can only select from the list, not create your own.


Anyway, I'll try and post a front and back shot this weekend. Gotta go back into work tomorrow for the Wyoming caucus, so it may be Sunday.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh, almost forgot.... so I check my lamp life left on the AE900 tonight and I'm at 1898 hours, but the number in the menu is flashing slowly in RED. Not sure what's up with that, but I check the manual and it says if you use high power and don't use the dymanic iris, you may shortly your lamp down to 2000 hours. If you do use the dynamic iris and run in low power, they say 3000 hrs. That's what I do. It also says that the lamp indicator will flash if you're approaching the end of the lamp life, but I don't see it flashing. Any ideas?


I'll also post in the AE900 thread.


Bud


----------



## Spydrman

Great job on the theater and bar - I'm still trying to figure out my bar design, I really like some design aspects of yours....


----------



## chinadog

Hey Spydrman,


Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions. I found bouncing ideas at the kitchen designers very helpful as well as using them to visual the layout.


Bud


----------



## W00lly

Bud


Nice little ride










I need to do the same thing and get me a mizer car. I was thinking a mini cooper or a scion as they are nice and small to cram in my garage with all the other stuff.


My truck is a diesel and most of the time its a $100 bill to fill it







I do not drive it much in the winter as I do not plow snow but still rough on the wallet


----------



## chinadog

Scott,


I was eyeing a black Cooper S. Was looking for something with some pep, in the low 20s with at least 30 mpgs. I could only find one with a white roof and I started looking around and came across the 08 accords. I've had two Accord coupes now, an Acura Integra and a TL. This car is like the TLs baby sister. Fit all the criteria and didn't feel like I would get squashed in Atlanta traffic, which was another thing that I just couldn't get out of my head when it came to the Cooper. Pretty happy with it, especially getting it for a few hundred under invoice!


Bud


----------



## W00lly

I know what you mean. some of the small cars pull up behind me and I can't even see them out my rear veiw mirror. If I hit some one with my truck you would be hurting for sure.


I have also been thinking about a 07 mustang with the 5spd manual


----------



## judsonp

Bud,


I haven't had any luck searching in your thread so I guess I will just have to ask what the depth of your riser is? Do you have any issues with your Berks reclined? It looks like you were restricted by the entrance to the theater.


Thanks,

Judson


----------



## chinadog

Hey Judson,


The riser is indeed constricted by the door and it's about 6 feet deep. The 090s are fine reclined, since they are designed to be right up against the wall (like 3 inches) and recline forward. There is plenty of room on the riser to pass by the seats when they are not reclined, but no room when they are reclined. When people are reclined in the back row, they can either walk behind the front row of seats if not reclined or on either side of the front row.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *W00lly* /forum/post/12690054
> 
> 
> I have also been thinking about a 07 mustang with the 5spd manual



Whats the gas mileage on that puppy?


Bud


----------



## John Martin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12689796
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> I was eyeing a black Cooper S. Was looking for something with some pep, in the low 20s with at least 30 mpgs. I could only find one with a white roof and I started looking around and came across the 08 accords. I've had two Accord coupes now, an Acura Integra and a TL. This car is like the TLs baby sister. Fit all the criteria and didn't feel like I would get squashed in Atlanta traffic, which was another thing that I just couldn't get out of my head when it came to the Cooper. Pretty happy with it, especially getting it for a few hundred under invoice!
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


You would not have regretted the Cooper S, but your new Accord is very nice too. Here is a pic of my baby. Lots of pep and I get between 30-35 MPG. I got rear ended 2 days after I bought it by a girl putting on makeup while she was driving. My wife was concerned about it being so small and how she wold feel on the interstate next to the larger vehicles but she loves it and has never felt weird while riding with me in it.











John


----------



## chinadog

John,


Nice! I'm sure I would have been fine. Tough for me to go from a full size Tundra to a Cooper... it was a mental thing. The fact that the sales chick couldn't find me the car of choice didn't help. I was all lined up, talked to her on the phone a few times and then I sent her an email asking how the search was going and never heard back. That's when I started looking for alternatives.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So after no response from my email to Panasonic, no replies on the AE900 thread about the question on the flashing lamp hours, I called Panasonic. The guy I spoke to was pretty much a moron and as I expected he said I needed a new lamp. I'm still not convinced since its not flashing on the projector itself, although maybe that happens later.


Looks like no one has these things in stock either. I'm now on the phone (on hold) with a ProjectorPeople rep. It's been like 10 mins already. I'm going ahead and order one now and have it on hand just in case. The Super Bowl is too damn close.


OK, so off hold now and as I expected, they have them backordered. She's going to call me with when they think they can get them, but she asked me if I had tried "Bulb Man".... sounds like a horrible name for a super hero.....


I took a quick look at bulbman.com and it looks like a great site, but doesn't look promising for a AE900 bulb.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Bulb ordered through PP, they expect to get them in around the third week in January. Hope the other one lasts. Pricey little buggers.... I bet we see disposable projectors some day... you can almost buy a new projector for the costs of there things.


Bud


----------



## John Martin

I bet they area. When I bought my Z4 they included a free spare bulb so I should not have to worry about it for some time. Mine is not even in the HT yet and I have nearly 300 hours on the bulb LOL Right on my living room wall.


----------



## chinadog

I'm hoping that the projector box had no impact on the lamp life. It had plenty of circulation and the fan to pull the air out. I used the recommended settings, so not sure what the deal is. Not too worried about it, I'm guessing that before the next lamp goes I'll probably switch projectors....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ordered one of these today in preparation for the Super Bowl. It'll get used a couple times of year, tops. Some of the commercial ones are > $500.00! Not sure if its actually in stock or not, it'll probably be a race between the hot dog roller and the new projector lamp. We'll see which one comes first....











Bud


----------



## W00lly

Bud


Check ebay Item # 260202087124 for bulb. Its a bit cheaper.


----------



## chinadog

Scott, thanks. I had already purchased one, although I paid about 330.00 for mine. I just hope it ships before the end of the month....


Bud


----------



## chinadog

... should have a cooler name.... I think "Red Screen of Death" is taken already....


Anyway, I know some of you that read this have the AE900, so figure I keep you guys up to speed.


There are a few interesting posts over in the AE900 thread in response to my posts. If you have AE900, take a look starting with the post linked below, which was a response to my comment about lamp life. Its states a "median life specification of 3000 hours only means you have a 50% chance, on average, of reaching 3000 hours before lamp failure". I'm not completely buying, but it is interesting and makes some sense. Not sure where 50% came from.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12812152 


It sounds like there is someone else that had the same thing happen to him, the red flashing lamp life flashing in the menu at about 1850 hours (about the same hours as mine) with no "change lamp" indicators on the projector itself. He just reset the lamp hours to stop the blinking, bought a new lamp in the meantime and guess what? 500 hours later, the original lamp still going strong....


I'm thinking the flashing in the menu is just a warning now that you're in that close to the bottom range of the lamp life hours. Would be nice this was documented somewhere (or their tech support was trained correctly).


Bud


----------



## vshine

Bud,


Have you found a place in ATL that carries Linacoustic since 2005 besides NBHandy? I'm looking for some to line my hushbox (BRC based design) and columns.


Thanks,


Sam


----------



## chinadog

Hey Sam,


Haven't looked for it since I bought it at NBHandy. I would think they would still carry it. Is there a reason you wouldn't get it from them? I think that Jason (jikkjack) knows where to get OC703 in the area.


BTW, where in ATL are you?


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12816296
> 
> 
> ...Its states a "median life specification of 3000 hours only means you have a 50% chance, on average, of reaching 3000 hours before lamp failure". I'm not completely buying, but it is interesting and makes some sense. Not sure where 50% came from.



Technically, a "median" is the point at which 50% of the samples are above and 50% are below. So, that would mean you have a 50% chance of having a _longer_ lamp life as well. A median doesn't imply any specific distribution other than that 50% thing (50% could have had a life of 100hrs and 50% could have had a life of 3001 hrs and the median would be 3000) but, in most cases its better than an average (mean).


Given the technology I would bet that most of the data is clustered pretty close to that 3000 hour mark and the lower numbers are certainly farther away from it than the higher ones. That is - there are probably some samples of only 1500-2000 hours but not any of 4000+.


----------



## chinadog

I guess where I was going was how he determined that it was a "median life specification" and if this specification was typical of all bulbs, an industry thing or just an assumption.


Bud


----------



## ebr

Oh...Nevermind...


(sorry for the half-assed statistics lesson)


----------



## jandawil

Hey Bud,


It's been a while since I've popped in and checked out you finished basement project. Very impressive!!! Makes me want to leave sunny California and fine a house with a basement of my own. Nice Honda!!! I also have the Accord EX coupe although it's a 2000 with 160,000 miles on it. You won't find a better commuter car. Very nice ride and good mileage. I average about 3,000 miles a month.


----------



## vshine

I was looking for somewhere closer to the Northwest side since I live in Woodstock but I could always visit one of my vendors in Duluth on the trip over. I've already have a load of OC703. All that remains are my surround enclosures, rear bass traps and hushbox.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vshine* /forum/post/12837083
> 
> 
> I was looking for somewhere closer to the Northwest side since I live in Woodstock but I could always visit one of my vendors in Duluth on the trip over. I've already have a load of OC703. All that remains are my surround enclosures, rear bass traps and hushbox.



Gotcha. Well, I drove all the way from Acworth to Duluth to get the stuff! Sounds like you don't need a complete roll either. Maybe you can split a roll with someone here in Atlanta....


Got a construction thread?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jandawil* /forum/post/12832978
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> It's been a while since I've popped in and checked out you finished basement project. Very impressive!!! Makes me want to leave sunny California and fine a house with a basement of my own. Nice Honda!!! I also have the Accord EX coupe although it's a 2000 with 160,000 miles on it. You won't find a better commuter car. Very nice ride and good mileage. I average about 3,000 miles a month.



Hey Jon, thanks for checking in. Funny you should say that, it wa's actually snowing here!


I've had both Acuras and Hondas and you just can't beat their engines. 3K miles a week? Thats insane!


Bud


----------



## Driving_Hamster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12689796
> 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> 
> I was eyeing a black Cooper S. Was looking for something with some pep, in the low 20s with at least 30 mpgs. I could only find one with a white roof and I started looking around and came across the 08 accords. I've had two Accord coupes now, an Acura Integra and a TL. This car is like the TLs baby sister. Fit all the criteria and didn't feel like I would get squashed in Atlanta traffic, which was another thing that I just couldn't get out of my head when it came to the Cooper. Pretty happy with it, especially getting it for a few hundred under invoice!
> 
> 
> Bud



Sorry for the off topic but I have to chime in here. I have two Mini's at the moment. A 2003 Mini Cooper (hardtop, getting ready to trade this one in) and a 2008 Mini Cooper S convertible. Once you know how to harness the power and "nimbelness" of the car I feel very confident on the road. Buddy of mine with a MC got hit broadside by a Suburban and came out only with a scratch on his knee. The guy in the Suburban had a broken femur







.


Size does not equal safety! Smart engineering can.


Good progress on the theater by the way.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Driving_Hamster* /forum/post/12838694
> 
> 
> Size does not equal safety! Smart engineering can.



No doubt, it's just a mental thing for me...







If that chick had called me back from the dealership, I'd be driving one now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

For sure, just took this a minute ago on the back deck. Happens every two or three years, then goes away quickly.











Bud


----------



## mbgonzomd

Yep, it is headed my way. I just hope it is enough to cancel work tomorrow







!!! Have fun making a really small snow man!


----------



## Maineiacsmoker

Hey, I'll trade you guys....we got 15" on Monday, and they're saying another 6-12" on Friday....Thank god for the thaw last week, or we'd have no place to put it all....



Cheers,



Dave


----------



## chinadog

Ah ..... no thanks! I'll take those hot summers over those cold winters any day!


Bud


----------



## vshine

Or those 75 degree days in ATL in January. I'm getting baseball fever.


----------



## vshine

No time for threads. I'm doing good to just get this 5 year project completed.


----------



## msom22

Just finished up your thread, took me about a month to get through it. Great job on your HT, I'm so jealous. Kept showing the wife and told her if we hit the loto we're getting someone to build one for us! Putting an addition on the next year or so and hope to use some of your ideas as insperation! Really enjoyed tracking your project!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msom22* /forum/post/12847468
> 
> 
> Just finished up your thread, took me about a month to get through it. Great job on your HT, I'm so jealous. Kept showing the wife and told her if we hit the loto we're getting someone to build one for us! Putting an addition on the next year or so and hope to use some of your ideas as insperation! Really enjoyed tracking your project!



Hey, well thanks and welcome to the craziness. A month, huh?










Bud


----------



## msom22

Wife kept bugging me about what I was looking at so viewed in short sessions. Showed her just enough to get her excited about some ideas, but not enough for her to figure out how poor my to do yourself skills are.


----------



## larryep

That is a very sharp car.It is funny you down sized to a smaller car Bud. My truck gets crappy gas milage to and I put in a reservation for the smart car. My debate right now is to keep the truck or trade it in. The money from the truck would go along way to pay off the smart. By the way, your honda is a cadilac compared to a smart!

















[/URL] [/IMG]


----------



## miltimj

I'm not sure the Smart would live up to its name when it seems you could get injured in an accident with a bicyclist in that thing.. I saw them in Europe and about the only advantages are fuel economy and park-ability (less of an issue over here). Imagine someone Bud's size trying to squeeze in one of them..


----------



## calv1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12838739
> 
> 
> For sure, just took this a minute ago on the back deck. Happens every two or three years, then goes away quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Were you trying to make me sad










This is what happens to me every year at work and it stays for up to _6 months_!! This isn't my truck in the pic but on any given day up here it could be.











edit; forgot to say


Cheers

Calvin


----------



## larryep




> Quote:
> I'm not sure the Smart would live up to its name when it seems you could get injured in an accident with a bicyclist in that thing.. I saw them in Europe and about the only advantages are fuel economy and park-ability (less of an issue over here). Imagine someone Bud's size trying to squeeze in one of them..



It was fun to drive when the tour came thru St. louis. The room is amazingly larger than you would think(inside). It is just convincing the girlfriend of my decision.







It would be funny looking to see bud driving one of those.


----------



## chinadog

Larry,


Nice! Whats the time frame on getting one of the puppies? My first car in high school was an orange 74 Toyota Corolla. Even though it was a four door, I had the seat so far back, I could put my arm out the back window...


I have the truck still, it's just has a different purpose now.... sitting.


Tim,


If gas prices keep going up, the accident thing will become less of an issue since everyone will be downsizing! I don't see that happening anytime in the near future though. I'd take the train if I could, but that just won't work where I live. I'd have to move to make it worthwhile.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calv1n* /forum/post/12899669
> 
> 
> This is what happens to me every year at work and it stays for up to _6 months_!! This isn't my truck in the pic but on any given day up here it could be.



You know, I just love Canada... just not in the winter! Man, how do you guys do it! I know you get used to the cold, but man, that's out of control!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So we had an interesting weekend. I had family in town from MA and CT for my Dad's 80th birthday. I had a few of my nieces here, aged 16-19 and they basically camped out in the theater room and played the Wii non-stop. And when I mean "camped out", I really meant it! They actually slept in the room two nights, even though we have beds for them!







I did boot them to watch the Giants game with my brother though.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh, almost forgot. Got my hot dog roller on Saturday. Looks like it'll do the trick. Will try it out maybe this weekend.


Also, my extra lamp came today for the AE900. I don't plan on swapping it out anytime soon though. I think I'm going to run the existing lamp in formal mode until it finally goes. After 2K hours, the picture is still pretty bright, although Jason was here a week ago and thinks its a little dimmer. I guess with the gradualness of dimming, I just didn't notice it.


Bud


----------



## larryep

I talked to the smart guy (no pun intended) yesterday and he said they are taking care of orders or reservation now that took place in april. I did my reservation in Oct. I can't move the seat to far back because there is no back seat.










Bud you should proclaimed technical difficulties with the WI. and unplugged something.










that was a good game to catch!


----------



## mrpergo

Bud you might want to put that new lamp in and use it till the warranty runs out then put the old one back in.

There is usually a 90 day warranty on new lamps.You don't want to put the new one in on day 91 and find its a dud


----------



## chinadog

Sounds like a great idea. Thanks. I'll check out the warranty period.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Scott (SVonhof),


FYI, I had a clear bra put on the new Accord last weekend. He installed it here at the house so I got to watch him do some of it. I expect that the same technique for applying the template to the care if the same sort of technique used for car wraps and what I would have to do with the marquee to get it on plexiglass. At least I don't have to worry about all the curves...


Bud


----------



## SVonhof

Did it go on pretty easilly?


----------



## chinadog

It took him about 4.5 hours to do the hood, fenders, bumper, mirrors and the handle "cups". He has to use wax the area first, then use a solution to keep it moist so the pieces don't stick to each other as he gets it on the car. He then has to adjust it to the right position and work out the bubbles and flatten it out. Each piece is custom cut based on custom template for the car. He actually had to put the car on a ramp to do the bumper:











If you look really close you can see a line on the fender to the left of the white reflection. I purposely tried to capture the lines in these pictures. If you didn't know to look for it, you'd never know it was there. Some angles you can't see it at all.


Another shot, with the line going across the hood towards the top of the picture:











Bud


----------



## Jasonn B

Cool stuff! I also had this done on mine as well.





























Best thing I ever did.


----------



## HeyNow^

I am glad you have pictures, it was getting warm in here...


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Noticed I said "I had a clear bra put on _*the new Accord*_ last weekend" and not "I had a clear bra on". Not quite sure why that would make _you_ warm, I would think that would have the opposite effect around here!










Bud


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/12994154
> 
> 
> "I had a clear bra on".



Scary thought


----------



## HeyNow^

Ha~ I didn't read much further than a clear bra...or what you were putting it on.


----------



## GPowers

You can buy the same kind of clear plastic for your iPod touch to protect the back and front screen. They do not call it a clear bra, instead it is call bodygardz.


----------



## Netko350Z

Bud...


Wanna race?










This is all you will see...










Or would you want to look deep into my eyes and see...


----------



## dynfan

Oh no, don't turn this in to a car thread please. My pics. will hijack the thread in a hurry......


Accord looks good bud, 6 cyl right? Perhaps you should race the 350Z droptop for a goof


----------



## chinadog

No racing here, especially with my 4 cyl commute car ...







Dynfan, got the 4 instead of the 6 for the few extra MPGs. Had the car a month and I already have 2100 miles on it.


Bud


----------



## dynfan

I understand about practicality! I daily drive a G35 sedan and while it has decent power I wouldn't mind better mileage.


In all honest though 4cylinder cars can make great race cars







I happen to have one that makes 300 HP and when driven sensibly gets 30+ MPG.....


----------



## SVonhof

2 cylinders, 2 wheels and around 44 mpg.


----------



## chinadog

OK, enough of the car stuff for now!










Work is finally starting to slow down some after several months of long hours, postponed vacation days, working weekends, etc. Now I can get some other things I've been postponing. In the next two weeks I'm going to start seriously researching the star ceiling implementation, techniques and equipment. I have some ideas on how I'd like it to look and I'll throw some sketches together once I get some good measurements. Jason (jikkjack) has agreed to help out as well, so it should be fun.


Any tips/techniques you want to throw out at this point will be appreciated.


I also started looking at ways to extend my Wii sensor bar. The wireless one just sucks up too many batteries (read "my kids forget to turn it off") and I'm tired of making battery runs. I've been in the Nintendo forum and there are some guys who have powered their sensor bars with AC adapters, so I'm leaning this way. Reaper did this I think. I ordered some parts from the RatShack and we'll see what happens.


Stay tuned.


Scott, any news from Jeff on the marquee? No rush. Nice bike, BTW.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Are you planning on the entire ceiling or just a segment for the stars?


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - biggest tips from me would be to use a low heat glue gun (avoid melting fibers) and to get various thickness of fibers rather than bunching fibers together to make large stars.


I do find the only time my star ceiling is used is for new visitors and kids movie nights. I find it a little distracting......just use rope for movies I watch.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## HeyNow^

I used that tacky glue I got from walmart in the hobby area. It looks like elmer's glue and has similar properties. My glue gun was too hot.


Don't forget to look into velvet for the fabric ...it just sucks up the light.


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13087211
> 
> 
> In the next two weeks I'm going to start seriously researching the star ceiling implementation, techniques and equipment. I have some ideas on how I'd like it to look and I'll throw some sketches together once I get some good measurements. Jason (jikkjack) has agreed to help out as well, so it should be fun.
> 
> 
> Any tips/techniques you want to throw out at this point will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> I also started looking at ways to extend my Wii sensor bar. The wireless one just sucks up too many batteries (read "my kids forget to turn it off") and I'm tired of making battery runs. I've been in the Nintendo forum and there are some guys who have powered their sensor bars with AC adapters, so I'm leaning this way. Reaper did this I think. I ordered some parts from the RatShack and we'll see what happens.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> 
> Scott, any news from Jeff on the marquee? No rush. Nice bike, BTW.
> 
> 
> Bud



I was wondering if he ever contacted you. I guess not. I didn't realize he was gonna be such a flake when I first talked to him. Heck, this is his business, you would think he would go after it.


BTW, Steve (Swithy) had some tips for me for star-fields (I don't know if I will ever do it), he should be chiming in on here about it soon I would imagine.


Side note on the Wii and the sensor bar, have you seen this guy's applications for the Wii sensor bar: http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/projects/wii/ 


Oh, and the bike gets me around!







Actually rode it twice in the past 10 days, hadn't ridden it in over 2 months before that.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/13087692
> 
> 
> Bud - biggest tips from me would be to use a low heat glue gun (avoid melting fibers) and to get various thickness of fibers rather than bunching fibers together to make large stars.
> 
> 
> I do find the only time my star ceiling is used is for new visitors and kids movie nights. I find it a little distracting......just use rope for movies I watch.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Mark, I think my wife has a low heat glue gun. I'll keep that in mind. I was thinking variable thicknesses, for a more realistic look and I don't want it to be too busy and distracting. Understand that completely.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13087627
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Are you planning on the entire ceiling or just a segment for the stars?



Randy, planning on just the highest part of the ceiling, the area that the rope light highlights. The challenge is going to be the cans and the heat duct. I was thinking of a coffered look, not too busy though. I think the area is like 8x10 or so.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13087813
> 
> 
> Don't forget to look into velvet for the fabric ...it just sucks up the light.



I'd definitely go velvet over GOM.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/13087876
> 
> 
> I was wondering if he ever contacted you. I guess not. I didn't realize he was gonna be such a flake when I first talked to him. Heck, this is his business, you would think he would go after it.
> 
> 
> BTW, Steve (Swithy) had some tips for me for star-fields (I don't know if I will ever do it), he should be chiming in on here about it soon I would imagine.
> 
> 
> Side note on the Wii and the sensor bar, have you seen this guy's applications for the Wii sensor bar: http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/projects/wii/



Scott,


Not a problem on the marquee, just wasn't sure if it would a 1 month wait or a 6 month wait. I'd hate to go to someplace like Kinkos, it'll cost a fortune.


I'll be checking out Steve's thread for sure as well as others.


I've seen some other variations of the Wii modifications and proof of concept. I did see where someone used two sensor bars, end to end to give it better constancy for projector screens. Need to look at that too.


Bud


----------



## cdaniels




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13087211
> 
> 
> OK, enough of the car stuff for now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also started looking at ways to extend my Wii sensor bar. The wireless one just sucks up too many batteries (read "my kids forget to turn it off") and I'm tired of making battery runs. I've been in the Nintendo forum and there are some guys who have powered their sensor bars with AC adapters, so I'm leaning this way. Reaper did this I think. I ordered some parts from the RatShack and we'll see what happens.
> 
> 
> Bud



Don't know if you have seen this or if its an option for you. I'm thinking of using this for my Wii when I finish my room.

http://www.videogamebundle.com/index.html 


Charles


----------



## chinadog

Charles,


No, I hadn't seen that that. Great find! This one looks promising: http://www.videogamebundle.com/sensorbarhd.html 


Looks like it it wider than that standard bar as well, which I was also going to play with. Some guys are using them end to end and covering the middle IRs. The only thing I don't see is some sort of on/off switch. I may have to put in a switched (x10 or Insteon) outlet.


Bud


----------



## Fuzzybear50




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/13023674
> 
> 
> 2 cylinders, 2 wheels and around 44 mpg.



You have to wake up the neighbor's!


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13088240
> 
> 
> I'll be checking out Steve's thread for sure as well as others.



Bud,


Here are a few things I learned when I installed my star ceiling:


1) Low-temp hot glue gun worked fine. I did not melt any fibers. Make sure you have a bunch of glue-sticks handy because you'll go through about 3/4 bag for a 5'x8' area.


2) Leave the strands long until you get the ceiling in place. The 1st time I did it, I cut them off (leaving about 1/8" sticking out). When I finally got the ceiling hung, I had stretched the fabric just slightly and a lot of the fibers went above the fabric. I had to pull it down, unglue all the fibers and do it again. A royal PITA! Once I got it installed (the second time), I cut them all off with about 3/8" of an inch sticking out. You cannot see them from the floor at all. My ceiling is about 9' from the floor.


3) The multi-size strands is the only way to go. IMO, its adds so much to the realism of the ceiling.


4) Get one of the LED light units. They run super cool, the LED light is the ice-blue color vs. the golden yellow you get with a regular bulb and is dead silent.


Good luck on your build. Feel free to ping me if you have any questions.


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks for the info. Definitely going with the LED unit. I have the link somewhere, I remember you discussing it in your thread. On the multi strand option, did you get individual bundles of different sizes or are all the different sizes bundles together?


Where did everyone get the fiber?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Charles,


I went ahead and ordered the Nextronics sensor bar in the link above last night. I'll post back here when I get it hooked up. Again, nice find. Thanks!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I got the fiber and LED unit here; http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Co...light_unit.htm 


I got the EG -48 fiber that has multiple sizes jacketed there also. http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm 


I had a problem with the LED unit and they shipped a new circuit to me and was very easy to install. Great place to do business with.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


I assume you're talking about the EG-PACK48? Also, curious, how many bundles did you buy to do your ceiling? How many fiber bundles can you use with the cool sky? You just buy a million feet and cut it into multiple bundles? I won't need nearly as many as you, I'm sure.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Yes, it's the EG-PACK48. I think I purchased a total of 75 feet. I used two runs per panel for a total of 96 stars per 8X4 foot panel, three panels total. You trim about an inch and a half off the jacket and you can insert 6 bundles in the LED. Tight fit but I got them in there!


----------



## chinadog

So the raw end of the bundles just stack in the light source? How are they secured to the light source to prevent them from falling out? Is there any light spillage from the light source around the bundle ends?


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Correct. The LED unit has a soft gasket inside the nut. You insert the fiber ends into the nut and gasket and tighten down the nut. The nut tightens down on fingers that secure the fibers against the gasket. I used some black electrical tape aroung the six jacketed fibers to hold them together about 6-8 inches behind the LED unit.


You need pictures, don't you?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13097331
> 
> 
> You need pictures, don't you?



Doesn't hurt!


Bud


----------



## cdaniels




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13097120
> 
> 
> Charles,
> 
> 
> I went ahead and ordered the Nextronics sensor bar in the link above last night. I'll post back here when I get it hooked up. Again, nice find. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Bud



Your welcome. I'll be interested to hear how it works.


----------



## rmcveigh

Hey Bud,


I've been following this thread for a while. The products he's producing look very good and are inexpensive. I'm very tempted to go this route with my ceiling here in the next month or two. One of the things I like is the way the components hook up and are so small that you don't need a noisy illuminator.


-Ryan


----------



## chinadog

Ryan, I subscribed to this thread along the way, but have not really had time to read through it. I'll take another look. Thanks.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

The LED unit is silent and no heat to worry about. However, my application used more fiber so the cost was probably more.


----------



## chinadog

Randy, do you dim the ceiling? Is it via the LED unit or a wall dimmer?


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fuzzybear50* /forum/post/13094640
> 
> 
> You have to wake up the neighbor's!



Oh, mine is plenty loud for me. Not as loud as yours, I am sure of it, but still, for a sport-bike, it's one of the louder ones as it's a V-twin like yours.



But we have to keep this on track, right Bud?


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud there is a button on the LED light unit. Push it in and hold and it will brighten and dim.... Click it and it will change to differret flickering scenes.


----------



## chinadog

Randy, was thinking IR control (not sure if its needed) and scenes.


Scott, nice Photoshop skills!










Bud


----------



## Fuzzybear50

Sorry......couldn't resist.


----------



## oman321

Bud star ceiling system that Ryan linked on his post has IR control. Any universal remote with Sony TV codes can control it. I have DIY kit with 2 RGB units. It offers many color modes. You can get twinkle white units as well. He also offers shooting star modules and milky way modules to boot. Service is great but he works on his own and builds the units per order so it usually takes about a week for him to ship.


Stardesigner will be offering some new stuff as well. He mentioned something about lazers a little while back. Also his network card (the brain) offers 8 connectors to hook up to individual LED's for spot lighting which can be individually controlled and dimmed. Best of all he will be offering a dongle with software pretty soon so you can make program changes and updates. Good luck.


----------



## chinadog

Oman, thanks for the post.


I took a look at that thread today some, saw the circuit board and wondered what the heck that is. I'm not sure I'll need IR control, but just wanted to think things through. The way I have my scenes setup, I can easily ad an X10 outlet or appliance outlet to turn the illuminator on. If it has a manual dimmer built in as Randy says, I could just find the right setting and be done with it. Not sure I'd do all the fancy comet and shooting star effects. I still have to figure out the coverage, whether to do a coffered look or not, and how to deal with the can lights. Pretty basic stuff.


Have you completed yours yet?


Bud


----------



## dr350x

hi bud,

awsome build. i've followed your build from the begining, never had much to contribute until now. i started my build a few weeks ago. i am at the point of the star ceiling.

just waiting for the light boxes.


not very savy at linking threads yet. the places i got my material from are linked at my build page, THE ALMAX posts 46,47.


i would highly recommend drawing out your ceiling plans on paper, measure your cable runs. the amount of fibers per light box varies from 300-700 with the avg being 500. keep that in mind.


that should get you in the ballpark of how much cable you should need. definately go with the eg-48 multi-fiber pack. it will give you the realistic effect your going for.


----------



## dr350x

oh ya,


if your doing a shooting star, use the 8 fiber cable, you can run several cable together in the shooting star generator to give you a long 20, 30 ,40 inch meteor trail. start with 1-fiber then as you go down the line add 2 to 5 fibers twards the end of the effect. this will give a realistic look. dim to bright, as real meteors look.


fiberopticproductes has a generator.

weidamark also has the same version. about 10$ less.

star-designers looks pretty cool, he's in canada though, i don't know if customs will be an issue.


(sorry, i tried to link, cut&paste, wont let me do it for some reason)


----------



## chinadog

dr350x,


Thanks for the comments. I've checked out your progress a few times, pretty cool you're using the wood from your property. Looking forward to seeing how that works out for you. As far as linking, use the "Link" link on the upper right side of an individual post.


Thanks for the info on your ceiling project. I'm hoping to get some measurements this weekend so I can draw up a plan and get things ordered soon.


Bud


----------



## oman321

My panel is completed and ready to be put up and surrounded by trim. Been busy with a super bowl party and rebuilding the riser though, and haven't had time to focus on it for a little while.


I'll hopefully will be getting it up pretty soon. I need to get a new camera though, my other was stolen







. Because of can lights that run the length of my room I had to limit my panel to be 4x6, but I was able to squeeze in enough constellations and stars to make it nice. I have been able to test with long fibers and it looks great. Once up I'll be able to trim them down. Whats nice about the control card is that you simply use cat5 to connect, i'm running cat5 from my projector bay to above the star panel which then connects to the scd units. I'll then be able to use the same IR flasher to control the projector and control card.


I went the non traditional route of using a very dark blue fabric, looks like midnight blue. I was able to match my ceiling paint to the fabric (blue coal from Lowe's) so I'm looking foward to getting it up and seeing what it looks like together. My guests at the party thought initially the ceiling was black so it is very dark. Good luck on which ever way you go.


----------



## chinadog

I'd really like to see the midnight blue, so don't wait long for getting that camera! That sucks it was stolen. I had thoughts about doing blue as well and maybe going back to the frosted white rope light. I'm just concerned with the black soffit, it'll be really black in there. Good for movies though!


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13101679
> 
> 
> Scott, nice Photoshop skills!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



I can only take credit for stealing the image from somebody else....


----------



## chinadog

LOL!










Bud


----------



## dr350x

hi bud,

got an email from my partner, whos wood shop is buliding the columns, the oak wood is still to wet, and needs to be re-kilned. i'll get to that this week. hopefully it will be in progress soon. the next 1- 2 weeks anyway. thanks for checking out my build site.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13101345
> 
> 
> Bud there is a button on the LED light unit. Push it in and hold and it will brighten and dim.... Click it and it will change to differret flickering scenes.



Randy, BTW, does it remember the last setting?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Exchanged a few emails with Bryan yesterday on the star ceiling. Sounds like I might want to take advantage of taming some ceiling reflection points while doing this, so that'll have some impact on the design. I'll try abd get some designs out in the next week. I have a few days off next week, gives me a little more time to get organized.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13097107
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Definitely going with the LED unit. I have the link somewhere, I remember you discussing it in your thread. On the multi strand option, did you get individual bundles of different sizes or are all the different sizes bundles together?
> 
> 
> Where did everyone get the fiber?
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


I used the same stuff that Randy used in his room.


I think I bought 35' of fiber for by 5'x8' setup (cut into 4 separate strands).


The LED light unit does have controls to dim, change lighting patterns, etc. I have mine hooked to a Insteon switch so I can turn it on/off at will. Honestly, once you have your light level and the flicker pattern set, you will never change it. So, IMO, having IR control to change things up a bit is not that big a deal.


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13128083
> 
> 
> Exchanged a few emails with Bryan yesterday on the star ceiling. Sounds like I might want to take advantage of taming some ceiling reflection points while doing this, so that'll have some impact on the design. I'll try abd get some designs out in the next week. I have a few days off next week, gives me a little more time to get organized.
> 
> 
> Bud



It's pretty easy to do with as long as you use the 2" thick OC703 (or equivalent). It is a little more work but feel the benefits are noticable. You can see more HERE and HERE.


----------



## chinadog

Steve, thanks for the replies. I expected as much on the level for the stars, just wanted to ensure you had to dim it every time. Sounds like you don't, so thats good. I think I'll end up making several panels with OC703 or OC705 (Bryan recommended), depending on the size on the panels. Glad you could tell the difference in sound, more incentive to to it this way.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/13129088
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I used the same stuff that Randy used in his room.
> 
> 
> I think I bought 35' of fiber for by 5'x8' setup (cut into 4 separate strands).
> 
> 
> The LED light unit does have controls to dim, change lighting patterns, etc. I have mine hooked to a Insteon switch so I can turn it on/off at will. Honestly, once you have your light level and the flicker pattern set, you will never change it. So, IMO, having IR control to change things up a bit is not that big a deal.




Sir!


What he said







On/off...one thing you don't have to fark with.


----------



## strange_brew

+1 reply for good measure


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *strange_brew* /forum/post/13162779
> 
> 
> +1 reply for good measure



Thanks for the numbers pad, dude!










Bud


----------



## carboranadum

..*THAT'S* how you do it.


Let me play too!


CJ


----------



## chinadog

My AC powered sensor bar arrived yesterday, but since I didn't get home until 1:30 AM, I didn't hook it up in the theater yet. I'm on a conference call now, heading into work in a little while, so here are a few teaser shots I took just to get something out for you guys to see.


Even though its longer than the standard bar, it's "girth" is much smaller, probably because it doesn't need the room for the batteries anymore. I tossed a quarter in there for scale. One nice thing is that the bottom comes with double sided tape installed so you stick the sucker anywhere. In these pictures, I hook it up with the optional 30 ft extension. The AC power supply is tiny and has about 6 feet of cord with it.


I think this will work out nicely. I may try and fish the extension cord through the wall so I can use the triggered outlet in the receiver to turn it on/off (no on/off switch on the unit itself), but I may just leave it on all the time and just plug it in nehind the screen wall.



































Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Somebody dropped a quarter


----------



## chinadog

Hey! Thats my quarter!


So after a day with the new sensor bar, I'd highly recommend it. Seems to make the cursor a lot less shakey. Having no batteries is a big plus as well. I just plugged it in and let it go. I don't plan on doing anything special about trying to trigger it or turn it on/off. It is what it is.


Bud


----------



## tleavit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13184569
> 
> 
> Hey! Thats my quarter!
> 
> 
> So after a day with the new sensor bar, I'd highly recommend it. Seems to make the cursor a lot less shakey. Having no batteries is a big plus as well. I just plugged it in and let it go. I don't plan on doing anything special about trying to trigger it or turn it on/off. It is what it is.
> 
> 
> Bud



I dunno, that quarter looks like the one stolen out of my pocket this morning.


----------



## oman321

Hi Bud,


No new camera, so I snapped off some pics with my camera phone. Not the best pics but it will give you an idea. This first shows the whole panel. It is an insulation panel from Lowes originally 4x8 cut down to 4X6.










Here's a closer shot for ya.










And this is an angled shot so you can see the fibers sticking out about 3"










Sorry I couldn't get ya better pics, but you get the general sense. The only minus was that the fabric had more stretch than I would have liked but I made it work.


----------



## chinadog

Cool, thanks for the pictures...


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I've posted my rack before, but thought I'd show what it looked like in Racktools. Great planning tool, even if you don't use a Middle Atlantic rack, Software can be found here):

http://www.racktools.com/ 


Here is the comparison of planned versus actual (should have used Autostitch to show the complete rack, but my demo expired and its blanks below the shelf anyway:











Did this a few months ago to play around with the tool, so the rack has some updates (Wii for one), but close enough.


Bud


----------



## ebr

C'mon, Bud...show us the back. Craig has set a new standard, but I'm sure you can live up to it...


----------



## chinadog

I think I posted the back waaaaay back, but here it is. Somewhat organized, but not as nice as I've seen... yet.



















Got a few more changes to make, then I'll likely redo it.


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs

Bud,


That actually looks pretty good back there. I'd be happy as pie if I could get mine to look that clean. Nice job.


Mike


----------



## ebr

Yeah. You guys make me sick...


----------



## chinadog

OK, so here we go.


I took some quick measurements for the area where the star ceiling will go yesterday. So what I'm thinking about doing is abandoning the coffered look all together. I'm looking at 103x120, which means standard eight foot panels are a little short - but not by much. I have 7 inches to make up (3.5 on each side). I think what I can do is hide this area using crown (using some furring to close the gap around the panels and cover it with crown). If any of the furring would show, I could wrap that with the same material as the panels and we're good to go.


I'm also seriously considering using * Numinus * to build the panels for me. I've exchanged a bunch of emails with Lisa (longtime member LisaLynn on the forum) on pricing based on the new measurements. Once I have the final quote I'll go from there. Whats interesting is they don't use an illuminator that you guys use, the LED illuminator is built into the panels and daisy chained together. I'm still working on trying to figure out the best way for me to run power for it, but have some ideas.


Here is sorta, kinda how it would look. No gaps between the panels though.










*EDIT: I updated the "mis-measurements" from 103" x 116" to the correct measurements "103" x 120" na dreplaced the image.*


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud that's pretty much how I am going to trim out my panels. With one exception. I would like to put blue rope light around the perimeter hidden hidden above the crown.


Is the price of the custom panels palatable?


----------



## chinadog

For me, yes, especially if you factor in the time for me to gather materials and build the panels. I believe in the link above they're offering discounts for AVSers as well. The last few months for me at work have been pretty brutal between long nights and weekends (working on Saturday again for the Wyoming caucuses), side business, baseball started up again, etc. In a nutshell time is becoming a premium now.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Time is valuable. Building those panels can be mine numbing too. But Pink Floyd helps!

Yep, pretty soon...yardwork! I think we all need diversions so we can come back late in the summer to begin thinking about football season coming so we better finish up those theater related projects....


----------



## chinadog

OK, so I spoke to LisaLynn yesterday, who was very helpful talking me through some electrical ideas. I did one more round of measurements for the panels. I'll be ordering the panels in the next day or so. Not sure of the turnaround time, but will know more when I place the order. The actual measures are 103"x120", so I'm glad I remeasured.


Bud


----------



## ronnie_jackson

Nice rack Bud!!! (no pun intended)










Cant wait to see how you build this star panel. Hope to start on mine soon.


BTW, whats up with all the receivers in that rack? One looks like its not even used.


Ronnie


----------



## chinadog

Ronnie,


I have one receiver to drive the game room and bar (had it laying around) and the other was an ebay purchase for the butt kickers, although I have not installed them. Have them, prewired for them, but they're in the boxes.


Bud


----------



## SVonhof




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13289923
> 
> 
> Ronnie,
> 
> 
> I have one receiver to drive the game room and bar (had it laying around) and the other was an ebay purchase for the butt kickers, although I have not installed them. Have them, prewired for them, but they're in the boxes.
> 
> 
> Bud



What are you waiting for? If you don't want 'em, send 'em to me! BTW, I bought a BKA-1000 the Buttkicker digital amp they offer to drive my subwoofer. I could easilly add a buttkicker to the amp and it would drive both just fine, 1000 watts each!


----------



## chinadog

Well, with the Hsu sub I have now, the damn seats already shake! I actually have 8 of the Aura shakers and I was thinking about just doing the back row just for fun. I never got motivated enough to pull the seats out to do it. I always sit in the front row anyway.


Bud


----------



## Wazzey

Hey bud... great thread and thanks for all the help that you didn't know you were helping me with. I went through your index and saw that your riser was about 8".

Is that what it ended up being? width of your riser looks about 6' or so? Just curious on your riser dimensions.


I'm trying to not put a step on mine either and wanted to know about how well 8" worked for you.


----------



## chinadog

Wazzey,


No problem, glad you found it helpful. Yes, thats correct on the riser dimensions. I used 2x8s and then added plywood obviously. I was constrained by two things. The door being where it is made it only about 6 feet deep. Ideally, 9 feet would be perfect, but that would push my front row up another foot. Using the riser calculator, I should have been at least 10", but I didn't want a inside the riser step, especially at 6 feet, since it would be difficult to maneuver with other people reclined. A separate step would have interfered with the walkway to the door as well. As I said, you have to play the cards dealt and everything has a trade off.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Star ceiling update!


I went ahead and ordered my star ceiling panels today through our forum sponsor * Numinus * (Lisalynn here on AVS). Three panels 120" x 96" and all the installation hardware required. It'll take a few weeks before I get them, but that's OK, I've got plenty to keep me busy.


Looking forward to getting it completed!










Bud


----------



## bolmsted




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13202347
> 
> 
> I think I posted the back waaaaay back, but here it is. Somewhat organized, but not as nice as I've seen... yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a few more changes to make, then I'll likely redo it.
> 
> 
> Bud



Is that electrical house wire for the speaker wire... and you are plugging the copper into the banana plugs? it looks like sheathed cable. is that possible?


----------



## chinadog

Bolmsted,


Ahhh, nope!







The light gray wire (it is gray, but looks white here) is Carol CL3 UL in wall 12g speaker wire from Parts Express. Can be found here:










http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-742 


They actually sell it at Home Depot too, just more expensive.


Bud


----------



## dr350x

hi bud,

i will be interested in seeing the star panels installed.they sure will look great in your theater.

do the tiles allow for "wiggle room" if your room is square? make sure you do have alittle. i looked at their product before opting to go the dyi route. looks awsome. should really set off the theater.


----------



## chinadog

Alan,


Thanks! The panels will have some wiggle room, especially on the length. 96" was perfect, since it'll allow me to either add filler on the sides and or/do the crown (which is likely how I'll go). As far as the width is concerned, I'm going with the exact measurement (120"), but I'll be able to peel back the GOM and trim the board if I need to. I have to make sure I have to perfect measurements for the cans so when I carve out the hole for them, I don't mess up. No room for error! I might have to build some templates just to get them perfect.


Bud


----------



## dr350x

hi bud,

templates are an excellent idea. awfully pricey mistake....measure 3-4x then cut...i follow that motto and still booger it up...


----------



## chinadog

Almost forgot. I picked up a URC MX-980 (actually two) on Monday to play with.











I'm just playing around with the software to test things before I attempt to put it in play in the HT room. Right now I'm messing around with for the upstairs family room system. Definitely different than the Harmony setup. I'll let you know how that works out.


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13324160
> 
> 
> Almost forgot. I picked up a URC MX-980 (actually two) on Monday to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just playing around with the software to test things before I attempt to put it in play in the HT room. Right now I'm messing around with for the upstairs family room system. Definitely different than the Harmony setup. I'll let you know how that works out.



Bud,


I'm curious why as a current Harmony user you didn't try out the new "One"? I'm still building my HT, but have eyes on the One and the MX-980.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/13324529
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I'm curious why as a current Harmony user you didn't try out the new "One"? I'm still building my HT, but have eyes on the One and the MX-980.



Couple of reasons.


When I first heard about the One, I actually went down to Circuit City and picked one up and played with it some in the store. I think at that time they were also mismarked and we're cheaper than they were advertising them (if you've been in the official One thread, you know what I'm talking about). I thought it was nice, but no real beneficial upgrade features that the 880 already had.


I was really looking for another an excuse to buy a remote for our upstairs stuff (or replace the HT remote and move the 880 upstairs). I have an old Bose Lifestyle system (yes, I said Bose, its like 12 years old) and that is the monkey wrench in the setup. The 980 will actually handle Bose proprietary RF stuff, although I just started programming things and I haven't gotten that setup yet. The 980 does both RF and IR as well. If I can get it to work with that setup, I can put 4 remotes away.


My plan is now to use the 1st 980 upstairs, then use the second in the HT room and move the 880 to the bar.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13324160
> 
> 
> Almost forgot. I picked up a URC MX-980 (actually two) on Monday to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just playing around with the software to test things before I attempt to put it in play in the HT room. Right now I'm messing around with for the upstairs family room system. Definitely different than the Harmony setup. I'll let you know how that works out.



I've been a URC MX guy for a long time and I have to say I don't like that new layout at all. Completely different locations and sizes for the buttons. They had a fairly consistent layout of their remotes for a long time and then they came out with this...


Let us know how you end up liking it.


----------



## chinadog

Have you seen one in person? I think half the issues with these remotes are how they fit in you hand, how accessible the buttons are how intuitive they're placed. The layout is pretty generic and straight forward.


Reminds me a lot of the Harmony 880 so far, but a little bigger. The buttons are much easier to read, especially in the dark. The Harmony buttons for the DVR functionality are a little awkward. I have to look close at them since they're the symbols (>, >>,


----------



## BritInVA

Bud you will love the MX980 - I know I love mine. The best feature for me is that it shuts down when not in use but the instant its picked up it comes to life and buttons are clearly visible......add to that the flexibilty of programming its a winner for me.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13326081
> 
> 
> Have you seen one in person? I think half the issues with these remotes are how they fit in you hand, how accessible the buttons are how intuitive they're placed. The layout is pretty generic and straight forward.
> 
> 
> Reminds me a lot of the Harmony 880 so far, but a little bigger. The buttons are much easier to read, especially in the dark. The Harmony buttons for the DVR functionality are a little awkward. I have to look close at them since they're the symbols (>, >>,


----------



## aham23

i too played around a bit with the Harmony models at Best Buy. that pretty much sealed the deal for me and i stuck with URC. the Harmony buttons are small and packed in. while the peanut shape is nice in the hand the remotes felt cheap.


my upstairs system has been controlled since 2002 with the MX500. to stay in budget i went with the MX810 paired with the MRF260. it took me a couple days to figure out the remotes Wizard Software, but i have it up and running now and am very happy. having RF capabilities is fantastic.


later.


----------



## HeyNow^

I have the MX-800 also and find that it has a very nice "hand" to it. I have many different remotes in the house and by far the feel and shape of the MX-800 is the most popular. I love URC remotes, but hate their consumer relationships (I digress)....I will have to check out their new remotes in person. I need the RF since my equipment is in another room. Mine works flawlessly. Keep us posted brother Bud!


----------



## chinadog

This may help some folks.


I was looking around for some specs on the Carlon adjustable boxes (wanted to see how far they will adjust to) and discovered that they also make single and double gang LV adjustable boxes. Never have seen these at HD or Lowes. Never knew that they even existed!.


Single:
http://www.broadbandutopia.com/lowvoadbrsig.html 
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...a_1993_5438845 

http://www.broadbandutopia.com/lowvoadbr1.html 
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...a_1993_6330649 


Bud


----------



## Funston

Well, it has taken me a LONG time to go through your whole thread, but it was definitely worth it! You could almost turn this into a textbook of HT design and construction.


Great job with the build and documenting it. I for one am extremely grateful because I will be refering back to this thread often as my build starts to move from planning phase to construction phase.


Thanks again for all your effort and willingness to pass your experience along to the noobs like me.


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13349218
> 
> 
> This may help some folks.
> 
> 
> I was looking around for some specs on the Carlon adjustable boxes (wanted to see how far they will adjust to) and discovered that they also make single and double gang LV adjustable boxes. Never have seen these at HD or Lowes. Never knew that.
> 
> 
> Single:
> http://www.broadbandutopia.com/lowvoadbrsig.html
> http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...a_1993_5438845
> 
> http://www.broadbandutopia.com/lowvoadbr1.html
> http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...a_1993_6330649
> 
> 
> Bud



Oh man, that would have saved me so much time in my build.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Funston* /forum/post/13349579
> 
> 
> Well, it has taken me a LONG time to go through your whole thread, but it was definitely worth it! You could almost turn this into a textbook of HT design and construction.
> 
> 
> Great job with the build and documenting it. I for one am extremely grateful because I will be refering back to this thread often as my build starts to move from planning phase to construction phase.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all your effort and willingness to pass your experience along to the noobs like me.



Thanks, glad you found it helpful. My way of giving back.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *strange_brew* /forum/post/13349756
> 
> 
> Oh man, that would have saved me so much time in my build.



My thoughts exactly!


Bud


----------



## mn_hokie

Bud,


This is random, but would you happen to have the part number for Parts Express for the little magnets you used on the speaker grills?


----------



## chinadog

Magnets:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=329-045 


Bud


----------



## Chiahead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13353566
> 
> 
> Magnets:
> 
> http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=329-045
> 
> 
> Bud



I bet Bud didn't even need to look this up. He probably has that catalog and many others memorized by now.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, I didn't know the part number, but remembered the correct search words ... "grill guides".







I'll make sure I add it to the index.


Bud


----------



## mn_hokie

Ahh.. Thanks for the link. That explains why I couldn't find it when searching for "magnets".


go figure.


----------



## chinadog

OK, well, I just got a bunch of emails from folks about a tornado that hit downtown Atlanta and the CNN Center. I just turned on the news and saw the damage. Hopefully no one is hurt. My office is facing Centennial Olympic Park right on Marietta Street where it happened. I cant' see from the news if my windows were blown out. Not sure of the extent of the damage inside if any, but likely my laptop and 24" monitor is gone if the windows did break. I had it docked and my office is on the corner with two sides of windows, so if the wind didn't get it, the rain did. I guess I'll be working from home on Monday!


Bud


----------



## dr350x

bud,

sorry to here about the windies,,, you and Video Cam aught to get together and play the lotto...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dr350x* /forum/post/13385447
> 
> 
> bud,
> 
> sorry to here about the windies,,, you and Video Cam aught to get together and play the lotto...



That's twice I wasn't there for these events (the other being the shooting). Here is a picture from last night and the circled area in yellow is my office.











Bud


----------



## dr350x

holy ****,

your gonna need a truck load of garbage bags...the building looks like it gonna need bunch of new doors...

glad to hear no one was hurt...


----------



## dr350x

bud,

did you get your star panals yet? i look forward to your expirence with that system.


----------



## chinadog

Alan,


I've ordered them, but it'll be April before I get them in. I'll post when I receive them and I'll post install pictures.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13385754
> 
> 
> That's twice I wasn't there for these events (the other being the shooting). Here is a picture from last night and the circled area in yellow is my office.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Must be the luck of the Irish there, Bud...


----------



## calv1n

Holy!! Stay safe Bud you got some wild weather up there as of late.


----------



## HeyNow^

glad you are okay, Bud! We were worried about you.


----------



## BritInVA

Geeezzzz.....I know what its like to be close to these near misses!


1) Was 4 doors away from the Iranian Embassy in London when it was taken under siege

2) Was actually in Harrods, London when it was bombed (used to use it every day as its Bathrooms had soft toilet paper)

3) My Office in Docklands, London was blasted by the bomb there, and the bus I was on passed the bomb vehicle 20mins after it went of.

4) I had been through Liverpool St station, London the morning that got bombed


Obviously God wanted me as a Sun Beam.


Hope everyone was OK.


----------



## SpaceMoose




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/13390160
> 
> 
> Geeezzzz.....I know what its like to be close to these near misses!
> 
> 
> 1) Was 4 doors away from the Iranian Embassy in London when it was taken under siege
> 
> 2) Was actually in Harrods, London when it was bombed (used to use it every day as its Bathrooms had soft toilet paper)
> 
> 3) My Office in Docklands, London was blasted by the bomb there, and the bus I was on passed the bomb vehicle 20mins after it went of.
> 
> 4) I had been through Liverpool St station, London the morning that got bombed
> 
> 
> Obviously God wanted me as a Sun Beam.
> 
> 
> Hope everyone was OK.




Holy crap! Remind me to be anywhere you aren't!


----------



## chinadog

Mark,


I was at Centennial Park for the Olympics right before the bombing there and I was actually in London on business a while ago and the hotel we stayed in got bombed the day after we left. I think is was a Hilton property across from Hyde Park, but it was some time ago.


Pretty sad we're exchanging bombing stories...


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Yesterday turned out to be pretty wild as well with the tornados. We were under a tornado warning and there were several that touched down in Cartersville, which is about 15 mins north of us. Two people were killed. We got some wind and rain, but that was about it. Some places reported up to baseball sized hail.


Some other severe weather hit Atlanta again yesterday as well. From what I've seen on the news, there was a ton of property damage. Should be interested going downtown on Monday.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13391841
> 
> 
> Pretty said we're exchanging bombing stories...



Yeah, enough of the bombing stories - lets get back to HT stuff.


Other than the Star ceiling what else yo got going on? I started my concession stand yesterday - won't get much done today as off to National Zoo.


Mark


----------



## chinadog

I'm still messing with the MX-980 for the family room. I had to buy a IR-RF converter for the LS 25 called a C-1024A so I could use just the 980. Seems to work, but the exact IR codes are in the preprogrammed list for the 980, so still trying to perfect that. From there I'll work on the second one for the theater room. So for the remote works well for the kids, so that means having a second one in the theater room will be smart move.


Planning on picking up wood for my daughters' toy chest today. She needs something to hide all her crap (she's 6) in her room. I'm not planning anything fancy, something simple I can build in a day or so.


Last but not least, Jason (jikkjack) and I are building my neighbors theater room. He's not a DIYer and approached me about it. We're not doing the construction per se, we're doing parts of the job. He's having his whole basement finished by the company that built his house. We're acting as consultants to the owner/builder/project manager and doing some of the job ourselves. We did all the design details and prewiring. The builder did the framing, electrical, insulation, drywall and trim. They built the riser and stage, we built the screen wall. That's where we are now. Painters come this week and we'll go in next weekend and do all the acoustic treatments. We worked with Bryan (bpape) on the treatment design. I picked up a bunch of OC703 last week and will start cutting some of it today for the bass traps. I just ordered 260 feet of Fabricmate track that should be here next week in preparation for the install next weekend. After we get the fabric installed, we'll go back and do the equipment install. He wants his room to sound like mine, so it's likely going with the Ascend 340SEs and Sonance in-walls for surrounds, hence the track (only 12' of width, with small wood bump outs for columns). He's likely going with the Panny AX200 as well, but may jump on the AE2000. Should be a great setup for what he was trying to accomplish. I do have some progress pictures, maybe I'll start a new thread.


I told you guys I had post-construction depression!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Sounds like fun - I'm missing the build part now.


Although sometime in April I'll start on changing the Master Bedrooms vaulted ceiling into a multi tier soffet.....not HT but least keeps me out of mischief










Mark


----------



## oman321

Congrats on the showcase Bud,


Everything looks great, to bad they missed out on your upcoming star ceiling. I'm sure like everything else you do, it will be meticulous.

http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...tire_basement/


----------



## HeyNow^

Whoo hoo! Congrats Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Oh man, forgot about that! Thanks for the link.


I'm at work. Windows are shattered on the outside, but not on the inside (safety glass). I'll wander outside during lunch and take some pictures.


Bud


----------



## ripcord87

Congrats on the article! Now I can tell all my friends that I converse with a celebrity!


Beautiful work on the HT!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

You and Cam with the tornado's! My wife has re-occuring tornado dreams. We are in no rush to move to Kansas.


Congrats on the article.


----------



## hlomax

Congrats on the article... when I started my foray into this home theater thing yours was one of the first threads that I read on the subject, and now I can say that from time to time I have gotten input from one of the best DIYers out there... Great article on a fantastic job... I give you a hearty and healthy "NAVY Well DONE!"



too much time off my project but now try to get back on track!


----------



## John Martin

I told my wife about the tornado and first thing she thought was it hit your house after all the work you put into it. Glad it didn't get you and the wonderful basement.


Congratulations on the Electronic house article. Well deserved.


John


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the kind words guys!


Just walked around Centennial Olympic park and took a bunch of pictures. Will post them when I get home and put a link here. Pretty amazing.


Bud


----------



## John Martin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hlomax* /forum/post/13399634
> 
> 
> Congrats on the article... when I started my foray into this home theater thing yours was one of the first threads that I read on the subject, and now I can say that from time to time I have gotten input from one of the best DIYers out there... Great article on a fantastic job... I give you a hearty and healthy "NAVY Well DONE!"
> 
> 
> 
> too much time off my project but now try to get back on track!



Yeah man!! Go Black and Gold.


----------



## strange_brew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/13398842
> 
> 
> Congrats on the showcase Bud,
> 
> 
> Everything looks great, to bad they missed out on your upcoming star ceiling. I'm sure like everything else you do, it will be meticulous.
> 
> http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...tire_basement/



Congrats Bud! Great stuff!


----------



## Wazzey

Congrats on the article Bud... glad somebodys paying attention when someone's done as complete a job as you have. Well deserved.


----------



## judsonp

Congrats on the showcase Bud! We all knew you were a star from the beginning!!!


----------



## Chiahead

I saw the article, and didn't realize it was you. Saw the reference here and went and actually read it. Congrats on the exposure. You deserve it.


I have followed your thread for quite awhile, and seeing the pics on the article, made me realize where I have received many of the ideas I have been sketching out in planning my space. I looked at those pics and thought that is exactly what I am planning, then realizes I probably got the ideas from you (and whoever you got them from) a few years ago.


Keep it up Bud, looking forward to the star ceiling updates.


P.S., the only "bombing" I have been around was watching "The Hulk" in theaters a few years ago (shudder). And if that movie wasn't bad enough, they are making another... Oh, the horror...


----------



## chinadog

Here is a shot today of my windows (two on the left). Only the outer panes shattered!











The rest of the images around CNN center are here:
http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/cnn...do-march-2008/ 


There was a crane bringing up a dumpster up and down for the guys on the roof cleaning up debris. At some point they hauled up a porta-john for them! I guess that saves them a trip coming down....



















Bud


----------



## rcase13

Whew finally got through the entire thread! Very nice! I hope to do something similar soon but in the planning stages now. It's threads like this that gives folks like me hope that I can pull this off.


I have but one question right now... many more to follow no doubt! I think I will get the same fan but was wondering how you turn it on? Do you turn it on manually or is it temperature controlled?


The tornado is just terrible news. I have family in Atlanta. My father-in-law used to work downtown. He is now retired. Very happy for that!


----------



## dr350x

bud,

nasty stuff.


glad to see its spring in atlanta.


it sure in nice to see the pink fiberglass tree in bloom.... i always wondered how they grew pink fiber glass...


i'm still knee deep in snow...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rcase13* /forum/post/13403433
> 
> 
> Whew finally got through the entire thread! Very nice! I hope to do something similar soon but in the planning stages now. It's threads like this that gives folks like me hope that I can pull this off.
> 
> 
> I have but one question right now... many more to follow no doubt! I think I will get the same fan but was wondering how you turn it on? Do you turn it on manually or is it temperature controlled?
> 
> 
> The tornado is just terrible news. I have family in Atlanta. My father-in-law used to work downtown. He is now retired. Very happy for that!



Rodney, welcome! If you're talking about the bathroom fan in the closet, it's temperature controlled. I think I have the thermostat in my index. It's just an attic fan thermostat. Any more questions, let me know.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Alan,


Yes, thats the OC tree there. What do you get like 4 months of non snow months up there?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

John, Craig, Wazzey. Michael, Dave, Randy, Ripcord87, Hlomax, Oman321 and Judson -


Thanks for the compliments!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Kudos Bud.


----------



## Home Theater Joe

Hey Bud - Great job on the Electronic house article. It is nice to see. You are very deserving as you have helped many, many people in this forum.


Very sad regarding the tornado...Hope all you know is well.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


Bud


----------



## accts4mjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/13398842
> 
> 
> Congrats on the showcase Bud,
> 
> 
> Everything looks great, to bad they missed out on your upcoming star ceiling. I'm sure like everything else you do, it will be meticulous.
> 
> http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...tire_basement/



Bud, you're a star!!


That's awesome, well deserved I'd say










Mike


----------



## ejhuzy

I always knew I read this thread for a reason. Congrats on being recognized in EH. Your set up continues to drive me to finish mine.


----------



## jerrodshook

Good to hear you're still in 1 piece down there Bud! Get back to work!


----------



## chinadog

Mike and Ed, thanks.


Jerrod, you too my friend!


Bud


----------



## jjmj427

Bud,


First off, I am glad to hear that you and your family are all OK from the storms that came through your area.


NEXT, Congrats on the EH article!!!










Your HT room and bar area continue to inspire and awe people, along with all the help that you have given to people on this forum! This article is a culmination of your efforts and couldn't have gone to a better person!


Cheers,

JJ


----------



## dr350x




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13403530
> 
> 
> Alan,
> 
> 
> Yes, thats the OC tree there. What do you get like 4 months of non snow months up there?
> 
> 
> Bud



ya bud,


we go from summer to winter usually with a day or two of change to get used to the cold...LOL


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmj427* /forum/post/13425878
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> First off, I am glad to hear that you and your family are all OK from the storms that came through your area.
> 
> 
> NEXT, Congrats on the EH article!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your HT room and bar area continue to inspire and awe people, along with all the help that you have given to people on this forum! This article is a culmination of your efforts and couldn't have gone to a better person!
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> JJ



Thanks jj!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I mentioned Jason and I were working on a neighbors theater room. I went ahead and created a new thread called * The CG Family Theater begins! * and if you're interested, check it out.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I got an email late the other night from Rachel Cericola, who wrote the article for Electronic House magazine online stating that the theater and basement build article will be in the June print magazine. Pretty neat.










I then got another email from a different person at Electronic House stating that the pictures on the online version of the article (the ones I took) were not going to cut it for the print version and they would need new pictures. Sure enough, we now have a photo shoot scheduled for 8:00 AM on Monday!










Bud


----------



## McMurphy

Congratulations on the article and shoot. Look forward to seeing it in the magazine.


----------



## chinadog

McMurphy, thanks.


I was told to spruce up the place, take the magazines off the table and stage some drinks on the bar, too. Considering when I'm at the bar, I'm typically falling off the stool, so I wonder if they'll include that as well.










Bud


----------



## McMurphy

You know, I wonder some times just why magazines insist on ruining the "atmosphere" of a place just to show pictures of some place no one ever has. The department store look rather than that lived in, homey feel.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hell, Bud's bar looks like it's never been used!


----------



## chinadog

Well, I haven't gotten naked and danced on it yet







, but it's seen its fair share of action...










Bud


----------



## Johnsteph10

Too funny







and congratulations for a job well done!


----------



## mastiff34

Congrats bud, thats awesome!


Make sure you put out some chicago bears coasters or something =P


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13479461
> 
> 
> Well, I haven't gotten naked and danced on it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it's seen its fair share of action...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



You are kidding me right? That's the inaugural ritual for any bar... Biggie has the skid marks to prove it...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13481696
> 
> 
> You are kidding me right? That's the inaugural ritual for any bar... Biggie has the skid marks to prove it...



LOL, you know that granite can be really cold, too.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Update....


I PMed with LisaLynn on the star panels. Sounds like I'm working my way up the queue and they'll be working on them on the next week.


Bud


----------



## queendvd2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/13398842
> 
> 
> Congrats on the showcase Bud,
> 
> 
> Everything looks great, to bad they missed out on your upcoming star ceiling. I'm sure like everything else you do, it will be meticulous.
> 
> http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...tire_basement/



That's about as cool as it gets Bud. Can't wait to see the print version.


----------



## swithey

Bud,


I just saw your article. Congratulations!! I'm am so envious that you actually got all that work done in a relatively short period of time -- and all by yourself. I still have work to do but just cannot find the time. Maybe I need to take a 1 month sabbatical from work and get 'er done










Why hasn't Jason submitted his room?? His is well worth magazine footage as well!! JASON??


You may have inspired me to submit my room as well. I'm just not sure I want to show my ugly mug in a photo


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Hey, we should hook up and chat some and catch up.


I did have help here or there. In fact, there are plenty of rooms here that should be highlighted. I figure you had it in the works already. MOF, I went ahead and sent an email off the Rachel about Jason's room this week.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13487815
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> Hey, we should hook up and chat some and catch up.
> 
> 
> I did have help here or there. In fact, there are plenty of rooms here that should be highlighted. I figure you had it in the works already. MOF, I went ahead and sent an email off the Rachel about Jason's room this week.
> 
> 
> Bud



Sure -- happy to talk anytime







You should have my email. If not, PM me.


Oh -- glad Jason submitted his room. I'm sure they get so many submissions that it is hard to get them all posted. And I agree that there are some VERY nice builds out there that should be highlighted.


----------



## TomG16

I am in Roswell, GA and wish I would have seen your site earlier, been going through many of the same things in the DIY, had done the basebement 10 yrs ago and then decided to redo the media room which I had put off until technology changed from the 3 tubes. Ended up tearing it all apart and just got cabinets yesterday. We did a rear raised bar area in the back since likely 40% sports. Thought I had run enough redundant wireing for switches etc. but and Cat 5 to the switch location and front of the room. Equipment in the back. Would really like to just find a good installer type to tell me what to do, before I get all the finishes up on the wall. Still need to order the new equipment, but since I started over a year ago, didn't want to do too early. Room 20x20 and need to take some pics tomorrow with the cabinets in.


Any suggestions on a local knowledgable person that would consult and just tell me what to do from here.


----------



## chinadog

Tom, welcome to the forum. You could start up a thread here on AVS in the construction area to get input, plenty of opinions and knowledgeable folks here. Since you're in Roswell, I wouldn't mind stopping by on the way home one night if its not too far out of the way.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *queendvd2* /forum/post/13485331
> 
> 
> That's about as cool as it gets Bud. Can't wait to see the print version.



Should be sweet. Gonna have to get about 10 copies.










Bud


----------



## TomG16

Would be appreciated if not too far out of the way. Will look at post as you suggested, I had put one up, but too broad, and likely not in right place. Just getting the handle of this. Wish I would have a year ago when started tearing things out again. I am east of 400 off Holcomb Bridge Exit.

Waiting on doors to the room and then will get all the staining done. Paint etc and of course the remaining expensive side related to the equipment.


----------



## chinadog

Tom, looks like a beautiful space! Did you do all the woodwork yourself? What wiring/cables to do you have in place now? I could probably get over there next week, maybe this weekend. I'll PM you about it.


Bud


----------



## TomG16

Ran audio quest speaker wires and sub. Ran for 7.1.

To the projector, have audio quest 30' HDMI and Audio Quest Mac6.

Ran extra Cat 5 to the light switch area and to the front of the screen since didn't know about the Wii or IR needs.


Did most all the work and then finally gave up on the cabinets and the bar area, wife and kids getting a little tired of not having the basement space back to use and kids sports are really taking up a lot of the weekends. Had a trim guy help on the install, while I see some things I think I would have done a little better, it likely would have taken me a lot longer with all the cuts. Now that the cabinets are in, think I will have to do some work on potential vibration isolation, as I said before, was a little late getting to your site and picking up all the tidbits of useful info, so wrestle w all the steps and end up dragging things out longer.


Would love to get your opinions, I am sure the next long hold up will be getting agreement on what to do with the walls and ceilings. Think my wife has thought about, but not a lot, since just have the stain color finalized.


I didn't know how to PM.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Tom beautiful space!!! It deserves it's own thread.


Yet me open my big mouth again.


If that was my space I think I would take out at least one tall cabinet section on both sides of the screen wall so that you end up with enough wall space for a decent sized screen. The space you defined looks too small for the room.


Another thing to keep in mind is that putting speakers in cabinets is not generally recommended for the best sound performance but if you pack the rears and surround the speakers with acoustical absorption material you can minimize some of the cabinet resonances.


I'm sure Bud can help you out on that.


Edit: looking at the picture again I think I would just take out the two tall speaker cabinets, get quality in-walls for the L/R/C speakers and hang a SMX acoustically transparent screen. You also might need to tone down the light reflections off the sides and tops of the front wall cabinets by putting on a matt finish.


----------



## TomG16

Thanks, had just started a thread "Almost done but need help" in the construction site, spare Bud my space consumption. Don't think wife would want me cutting off the cabinets at this stage or something else would get cut as well. There are no windows in the room, that was just the construction lights and flash so should be OK. I hope. But up before pics as well from what I had finished out 10 yrs ago.


----------



## chinadog

Star panels shipping tomorrow! Now I have to find some time to get everything installed.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Hurry up, will ya? I need to steal your trim ideas for the star ceiling.....


----------



## chinadog

LOL. You've already got one!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Yeah, but I've been to lazy recently to finish the trim work.


----------



## chinadog

Better watch out, Mr. Logan may be at your door.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

He's too busy planning his leisure time


----------



## chinadog

Looks like my star panels will arrive today.


Debating if I should run a separate outlet and switch to power it or tear out my cans in the ceiling and use the existing wiring to power the switched outlet. I never use the main cans and tear out would not be a big deal since it'll be covered anyway. If I leave them, I'll have to cut out the the cans.


My father-in-law (my electrician) will be hear next week, so the timing is good. I may wait until next week before I make the decision. Not time this week or weekend to install them anyway with fabric coming for Chad's room to be installed.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

I came home to find a very large box by the garage today. The Numinus panels had arrived. A very heavy box, I might add.











Panels were packed extremely well. Took me some time to get it open. Lots of packing materials.



























Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here are some shots with the flash on and off:



















The corners are perfect. I'll have to find out how they wrap the GOM around the corners so cleanly. They even cover the backs of the panels.











Because the LED illuminators are built right into the panel themselves, I just had to plug in the AC adapter. The light is more white than the picture shows.











All the Rotofast pieces, splitters and AC adapter are included.











Looking forward to getting these up next week!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

What are the panel sizes again?


----------



## chinadog

96x40. Three gives me the 120 width I need, 96 is a little short, but it'll be covered with crown.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Looks good...why is ELITE written all over the plastic?










Let me know if you need help hanging the panels.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jikkjack* /forum/post/13699884
> 
> 
> Looks good...why is ELITE written all over the plastic?



What, you want me to "open kimono"?


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Hey Bud, what are the panels made of? Will they have any accoustic impact?


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Made of a substrate panel and will have some acoustic properties. Here are the specs:
http://www.numinus.com/pdf/productsh...le%20specs.pdf 


Bud


----------



## Dseal

If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for those panels? I was quoted right around $13,000 for enough panels to do a 11 x 17 ceiling with all the accessories. Ten panels total. Maybe I will have to shrink down the idea or do awy with it totally.


----------



## chinadog

I'm going to refrain from posting my cost since the company is run by forum members, but it was worthwhile for me to buy versus build due to my time constraints. Have you considering building these yourself?


Bud


----------



## Dseal

Not trying to embarass anyone. Don't get me wrong, I love the product it's just that I won't have that much to spend. If you know of any links on DIY panels let me know if you can.


Thanks


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Ruben aka sandman has a lenghty how-to in his thread showing his panel construction.


I believe Swithey also has some in his thread.


Both threads found via this view:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...c&daysprune=-1


----------



## HeyNow^

Here is Ruben's link http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26 


You will need to register on his site first.


----------



## SVonhof

Dseal, FYI, Ruben was happy with his, but then was un-happy after he found the fidelio (sp?) velvet and said he should have done the star panels with that as well. So keep that in mind.


----------



## rmcveigh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SVonhof* /forum/post/13708964
> 
> 
> Dseal, FYI, Ruben was happy with his, but then was un-happy after he found the fidelio (sp?) velvet and said he should have done the star panels with that as well. So keep that in mind.



I talked it over with Bryan (bpape) and he advised to not use the velvet on my ceiling because of its qualities in absorbing high frequencies. I'd highly recommend a room treatment analysis and incorporate your star ceiling plans into that process. In my case I'm going to use a non-absorptive material to cover my star panels. I'm hoping to get them going in the next several weeks.


-Ryan


----------



## dc_pilgrim

The absorption question is interesting. Since a panel that is GOM + insulation will absorb various frequencies. And apparently velvet will absorb the highs. I guess the panels should be integrated in the overall acoustic design.


Ruben preferred the velvet for aesthetic reasons since it was a blacker black.


----------



## chinadog

Dave,


Agreed. If you're dead set on them (and I waffled) then it's better to understand the materials impact overall in the analysis. I'm not sure of the impact these will have to the overall sound but at least there is information to determine it. Not sure if Bryan still hangs in this thread, would be interesting to get his perspective on my particular situation since he did the original analysis. We did however exchange emails on the subject, I'll have to go back and see what he recommends to use for the material when I was going to make the panels.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

My father in law and I worked on the panels yesterday. Here are a few shots from the install. Here there are temporarily plugged in.



















One of the challenges we had was with the main can lights. I was thinking I'd have to cut each panel for the can, use a light bulb extender and adjust the trims. I also had a supply vent to deal with in the ceiling.


Since I don't use the main lights, I decided I was going to pull the cans out of the ceiling and use the same dimmer and wiring. My father in law was like "Nah, just repurpose the switch and wiring and cover the cans with the panels". That made things much easier.


Part of the kit that Numinus sent contained this special outlet box that made the receptacle recessed enough so we could plug the AC adapter into. I went back and looked at my construction photos to see which can the wire first ran to and we cut into the drywall for the outlet box and removed the wire from can.











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Here is a shot of the Roto (I think thats what they're called) fasteners installed. There are installed on the ceiling using wall anchors. When you put the panel up to the fastners, you use an Allan wrench through the GOM/panel to turn the fastener. It then bites into the insulation board as you turn it and it sucks it towards the ceiling. You can adjust them a little up and down as needed.











You need 6 of these per panel (in this case).


Before you can install the fasteners though, you punch a hole with an awl through the panel and into the ceiling to mark where the fastners need to go. There are spots onthe back of the panels that are marked for this.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Looks like you are making great progress. What do you think of the seams between the panels when the lights are on? They are made with black GOM correct?


----------



## jikkjack

Looks good Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Sorry, had to bring the kids to school and just got back to my desk. More coming.


Randy, yes, black GOM. They look pretty good actually. You can see them if you look for them though.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

First panel getting secured. You can see the cans peeking out! The blue tape makes the hole where the alan wrench is inserted in the fasteners.











Shot with no flash:











Bud


----------



## chinadog

Second panel was a little tricky since I had to deal with the HVAC register. We measured carefully and laid out the location of the cut. I then poked some finishing nails through to the other side in the corners so we could cut the section out from the back.











Here is the back of the board. We just connected the dots with a silver sharpie. We also had to move the location of the where the fastener would go, since it was dead center of the supply.











I then cut it out from the back, removing insulation and trying not to cut the GOM on the front. I wanted to be able to wrap the GOM back into the panel.











Here it is installed:











Bud


----------



## chinadog

We are going to put the last panel up this morning. We needed a new fastener before we could install the last panel and Numinus went and shipped it overnight last night. It arrived at 8:00 AM this morning.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Can't wait to see the new and improved Blazing Ridge.


----------



## oman321

Very nice Bud,


I think the blue edge that shows from your ceiling gives it a good look, cant remember if you were planning on covering up somehow


----------



## chinadog

The real nice thing about these Numinus panels are the onboard LED illuminators. No running fiber anywhere. The panels are connected via Y adapters from the AC adapter. The AC adapter just plugged into the new outlet. Really quite simple to setup.


Since I used the existing switch on the wall, I just need to tweak my scene configuration on my PowerLinc and its good to go (of course I can use it manually too).


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/13777885
> 
> 
> Very nice Bud,
> 
> 
> I think the blue edge that shows from your ceiling gives it a good look, cant remember if you were planning on covering up somehow



I'm debating if I should use crown or not around the edges. I have about 3.5 inches on the sides before the panels hit the sides of the soffit sidewall, I may use a wood/GOM filler strip. I'll leave the side walls that blue though. I'll take some shots with the rope light up to give you an idea of how that'll look.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So its almost impossible to get a good shot now that everything is so black. Here is a quick one and I'll try and get some better ones later. I have to run out the door shortly.











Bud


----------



## Epyx

Nice pic! Looks like a concert in the park under a starry sky.


----------



## mastiff34

EXcellent work as always Bud! Thanks for the pictures, it's really looking nice!!


----------



## oman321

Nice indeed, quick tip if you exit once on the remote it will make your pause bar dissapear on your DVR. Then it would really look like an outdoor concert


----------



## dr350x

bud,

the numinus panals look great. they look like they were easy to work with, you'll love the stars...


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I officially hate you! I am so tired of your exceptional skills out shining me.....Do you screw anything up and step back and say "Man, I suck."?


Wait a minute, this isn't the Loganator thread....


Just kidding, you know that... I admire your Top Shelf work and attitude, thanks for sharing with the community!


----------



## ebr

Randy - guys like Bud, Ruben and indyGreg (and the list goes on...) are all here to make sure the rest of us realize the mere mortals we are. Oh well, something to aspire to, I guess...


----------



## HeyNow^

Yeah, ebr....I am thinking about kicking the dog when I get home.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Epyx* /forum/post/13778824
> 
> 
> Nice pic! Looks like a concert in the park under a starry sky.



Exactly. The other night they were showing the Rolling Stones at the Isle of Wright, an outdoor venue and it looked pretty cool.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mastiff34* /forum/post/13779064
> 
> 
> EXcellent work as always Bud! Thanks for the pictures, it's really looking nice!!



Thank you sir! Still debating if I should do the 3.5" GOM filler on the sides and crown. I'll wait a little while and see.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/13779186
> 
> 
> Nice indeed, quick tip if you exit once on the remote it will make your pause bar dissapear on your DVR. Then it would really look like an outdoor concert



Cool, I'll have to try that. Didn't know you could do that.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dr350x* /forum/post/13780340
> 
> 
> bud,
> 
> the numinus panals look great. they look like they were easy to work with, you'll love the stars...



They were very easy to install. We actually cut the last panel, I had to take about 2 inches off it, but it was very easy.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13780557
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I officially hate you! I am so tired of your exceptional skills out shining me.....Do you screw anything up and step back and say "Man, I suck."?
> 
> 
> Wait a minute, this isn't the Loganator thread....
> 
> 
> Just kidding, you know that... I admire your Top Shelf work and attitude, thanks for sharing with the community!



He he, thanks dude. All I did was hang some panels, its not like I made them!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/13780654
> 
> 
> Randy - guys like Bud, Ruben and indyGreg (and the list goes on...) are all here to make sure the rest of us realize the mere mortals we are. Oh well, something to aspire to, I guess...



Please! I've seen both yours and Randy's work! I've got nothing on you guys!


Bud


----------



## kezug

Simply amazing Bud. Thank you for continuing to share your project(s) with us.


I am leaning towards a stain similar to the Minwax Rosewood you put on your doors/trim. You mentioned that your trim/doors was Yellow Pine. By any chance, did you have any Red Oak as well that you stained with the Rosewood? I was wondering how it matched up if you did?


Would you say the rosewood is a brownish red? Would it lean towards more red or brown? I ask, becuase my wife came home with a new stain from Minwax called Sedona red. It leaned more towards the red for me, and I am not sure if thats what I want.


----------



## chinadog

kezug,


Thanks. The doors, base, crown and casing are all yellow pine. I purposely made sure they'd all match. The rosewood is more brown to me than red, although there is a red presence, although not as red as the Sedona. I'd suggest getting a small can and just playing with it, thats what I did.


Bud


----------



## Lisalynn









Looks great Bud!! You have officially made the ranks of my Super Hero List!









Lisa


----------



## chinadog

Lisa,


Thanks and thanks for your help the other day. The pictures don't do it justice, but I plan on getting up some final shots later this week. The last few days has been a mob scene at the house with all the family in town. They're starting to thin out now. Everyone loved the ceiling, BTW! We spent a ton of time in the basement between movies, demos, kids playing the Wii and 360, the Kentucky Derby, etc. Great times!


Bud


----------



## kezug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13797824
> 
> 
> kezug,
> 
> 
> Thanks. The doors, base, crown and casing are all yellow pine. I purposely made sure they'd all match. The rosewood is more brown to me than red, although there is a red presence, although not as red as the Sedona. I'd suggest getting a small can and just playing with it, thats what I did.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, looks like the Rosewood is in run off or discountinued as I am not able to find it anywhere (HD, Lowes, or Menards). I found it at one place and it only came in quart!


----------



## chinadog

Thats too bad. I'm sure you can find something similar. I'm glad I have extra!


Bud


----------



## swithey

Bud,


The star ceiling looks great. You've been talking about doing this for about a year now and I'm glad you finally got around to putting it in. I'm sure you saved a lot of time buying it vs. building like I did. Mine was just too custom in size and design or I would have considered buying it as well.


Did I ever tell you I had to do my twice? See how much time you saved!! I love mine and still get compliments on the "look" it adds to the room.


So, what's next on the plate -- anything? There's gotta be something?


----------



## chinadog

Steve,


Thanks. It took so long because of the can lights and supply vent. Wasn't looking forward to carving out the holes for the cans, but covering them up works just as well! I didn't realize you did it twice!


I still have a couple of things. Never did print and build my marquee sign. I also want to build my poker table. I have a few other misc bar/game room things to do still. I also started to build a toy chest for my daughter that's mostly done, but some family things came up a few weeks ago and I haven't gotten back to finishing it out. Hopefully I can get that done soon.


Looking forward to seeing that wet bar of yours!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Couple of better shots of the star ceiling. I got a PM from urquell (Tom) with a few tips. These came out a little better, but I'm still clueless when it comes to photography. Had a real hard time getting the blue rope to really show up. Thanks again to Lisa and Scott at Numinus.


The Who at the Isle of Wright on MHD:










And another...










And just a ceiling shot:










Bud


----------



## Jason Pancake

Great work Bud. I noticed you got your Linacoustic at NB Handy in Duluth. Did they give you any trouble when trying to buy it?


----------



## chinadog

Mr. Pancake,


Thanks! No problem at all. If you run into problems though, let me know. I have access to the equivalent stuff now (CertainTeed ToughGard) that has the same coefficients. I can always get you a roll if you need it since your local.


Bud


----------



## mn_hokie

The best way to capture a dark scene is with a tripod. Turn off your flash. If you're able to adjust the exposure time manually, try something in the 2 second range and then slowly work up to 30 seconds. This pulls the lights out more.


I took this one with a 2 second exposure.











And this with a 30 second exposure.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks! I used a tripod and timer for the last few. I did not change the exposure time, nit sure how to do that on my camera. I'll have to look at the manual.


Bud


----------



## Jason Pancake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13899088
> 
> 
> Mr. Pancake,
> 
> 
> Thanks! No problem at all. If you run into problems though, let me know. I have access to the equivalent stuff now (CertainTeed ToughGard) that has the same coefficients. I can always get you a roll if you need it since your local.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks! I may take you up on that if I can't get my hands on Linacoustic.


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


The ceiling really turned out nice. Congrats on that! Since I like you so much, I'll let you buy panels and come install them for me. Let me know when you have the time.


----------



## chinadog

Jerrod,


Um, well, if I can do it, you can do it. That includes both *buying* and *installing*!


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - nice work.


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Looks awesome. Question for you. How do you like the black ceiling now opposed to the blue paint you had before?


Do you get any reflection on the ceiling with those panels? When you have a bright scene on the screen, do you see the panel seams?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## chinadog

Mark, thanks.


Randy,


I like the combination with the blue sides and blue rope light. I haven't noticed any reflection at this point, but haven't been looking for it either. I think its less reflective than the blue for sure. I do know that the LEDs do give off some overall light in the room during a showing. You can easily get up and walk around with just the ceiling on (and even with the projector off). More than I thought. I have not watched a movie with the ceiling off yet. I have turned it off just to see the difference and box is the room dark now!


On the seams, I don't see them during a movie at all. They're pretty tight and even between panels. Since these are insulation only, the do flex some, so getting the panels perfectly even with each other to avoid any shadows was key. You can adjust teh panels some with the Roto fasteners, but when I spoke to Lisa, she also suggesting using needles (sewing) at a 45 degree angle between panels to get them perfect and that worked really well.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Sounds good Bud. I hope those nasty storms in the Atl Metro area didn't affect you.


----------



## chinadog

No, no issues here. Next county had some damage. I was working the primaries downtown last night when the storm hit.


BTW, to clarify, the needles work because the panels are not wood around the edges, they used something to harden and protect the edges, but a needle will so go through it with a little pressure.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

The June 2008 release of Electronic House is out that has my basement in it - page 60. Mine arrived in the mailbox on Saturday. I'll have to go out an buy a few copies. Only three pictures of the basement....one of the theater, one bar and the other the gameroom. The article is the same as the online version. Decent pictures though!


Bud


----------



## indygreg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/13780654
> 
> 
> Randy - guys like Bud, Ruben and indyGreg (and the list goes on...) are all here to make sure the rest of us realize the mere mortals we are. Oh well, something to aspire to, I guess...



are you kidding me? i have seen your bar. i am getting up the courage to do a starfield ceiling like yours. i make enough scrap to keep my firepit running without buying firewood (ever try to get a stack of drawers that are perfectly 1" too wide into a firewood rack?).


the lens is kinder than the eye. you are doing just fine if you ask me










greg


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13947609
> 
> 
> The June 2008 release of Electronic House is out that has my basement in it - page 60. Mine arrived in the mailbox on Saturday. I'll have to go out an buy a few copies. Only three pictures of the basement....one of the theater, one bar and the other the gameroom. The article is the same as the online version. Decent pictures though!
> 
> 
> Bud



Just received mine a few minutes ago and I have to say congratulations! Your theater and rest of the basement look wonderful.


I'm a bit disappointed with the fact that there are only three photos. I don't think that the one of the bar shows your excellent work in it's full glory. I even showed my wife the article and she said "looks nice". When I showed her the photos from your thread, she remarked that it didn't look like the same space...it looked much better online.


In any event, congratulations on the article as well as the excellent basement!


CJ


----------



## chinadog

CJ, thanks for the comments. I thought it was odd as well, but maybe the photography just screwed things up. Dunno.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Sh!t Bud, you have more followers on AVS than that Mag has subscibers. I just got my "Blazing Ridge Cinema" tatoo yesterday...guess where it's at?


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/13958330
> 
> 
> Sh!t Bud, you have more followers on AVS than that Mag has subscibers. I just got my "Blazing Ridge Cinema" tatoo yesterday...guess where it's at?



Hehe. If its anywhere close to where mine is, it must have hurt!










Bud


----------



## queendvd2

Just got my EH issue in yesterday's mail. Congrats on the great article Bud! I too was disappointed with the limited pics as I feel it didn't give a true portrayal of how great the space looks. Plus, being an HT enthusiast I would have liked to have seen a picture that captured the entire theater area. But all that aside, very cool that your space was featured


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Queen. Probably no real incentive for them to waste the print space with extra pictures I guess. The article was the same as the online version, so its probably a matter of how much space they have available.


Bud


----------



## Ravz

OK, i have to ask , what are these yellow things on the workbench?


EDIT: Sorry right at the begining of this thread, during electrical pictures


----------



## benson peculiar

Ravz,


I believe that you are looking at Bud's traffic light. It's just sideways.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11330025
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ravz* /forum/post/13961115
> 
> 
> OK, i have to ask , what are these yellow things on the workbench?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Sorry right at the begining of this thread, during electrical pictures



Yup, assuming thats what you're referring to (don't know what else it could possibly be), Benson has it correct (and good pull on the pictures, Benson!).


Bought it on ebay, then bought a circuit board that controls the timing of the lights changing. When I first got it, all lights came on simultaneously. it was really bright! Added the circuit board and now it cycles like every 2 minutes.


Bud


----------



## benson peculiar

I may not have a dedicated HT, but I can quick search a thread with the best of 'em.










Really like the light Bud, it adds a interesting and fun touch. It's the little things (and a few big ones) that really make your theater stand out.


some day...some day...


laters,


----------



## swithey

*bud, Bud, BUD!!!* Congratulations on the article







I was looking through my mag yesterday and saw the title "DIY Home Theater". Then, I saw YOUR name. I had to yell to my wife "You know that guy BUD I've talked about in the past.. well, here is his room in a magazine". She was very proud of you (as was I)










Anyway, as the post stated above, the pics do not give the room full justice. However, they do show the attention to detail you used in the room. Wish you could have had the star ceiling installed before the photo shoot. That would have been the icing on the cake.


Way to go Bud!


----------



## BigJoeMoose

Bud,


Quick question for you... What color Blue (paint type/color/brand) did you use for the sides. I like the black star ceiling with the Blue tinge on the sides, looks awsome.


Thanks,


Joe


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/13965902
> 
> *bud, Bud, BUD!!!* Congratulations on the article
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my mag yesterday and saw the title "DIY Home Theater". Then, I saw YOUR name. I had to yell to my wife "You know that guy BUD I've talked about in the past.. well, here is his room in a magazine". She was very proud of you (as was I)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, as the post stated above, the pics do not give the room full justice. However, they do show the attention to detail you used in the room. Wish you could have had the star ceiling installed before the photo shoot. That would have been the icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> Way to go Bud!



Steve,


Ha, pretty funny, thanks. Was thinking today that the extra effort to get the ceiling in before the photo shoot might not have paid off anyway with the number of shots published. Oh well, maybe next time!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigJoeMoose* /forum/post/13966204
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Quick question for you... What color Blue (paint type/color/brand) did you use for the sides. I like the black star ceiling with the Blue tinge on the sides, looks awsome.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Joe



Hey Joe, thanks. The original paint color was Sherwin Williams Georgian Bay in flat. The rope light, now also blue (was frosted white at some point) was from NoveltyLights.com.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

New life for my marquee....


One of the techies here at work is into photography and has one of these huge Epson printers. He's looking into some special backlit media alternatives that would allow me to backlight it once I get the box built. I may end up getting a larger roll (2'x100'), which would allow me to do a bunch of marquees/concession signs if there is any interest from the group. We'd have to recoup the media and ink costs of course. Lemme know.


This is the final design I'm going with:
http://images29.fotki.com/v1016/phot...Marquee-vi.jpg 


Still need to work out the lettering, but that should be pretty easy and painless. Thinking about backlighting my concession sign too now.


The wife and kids plan on spending a few weeks at my in-laws, so I'll be able to start up some projects soon.



Bud


----------



## oman321

I'm interested....










"HIGHLAND CINEMA"


Would like to change the red stripes to blue and see what options we might have for letter colors if you go foward with this.


----------



## benson peculiar

That's awesome man! I was wondering when you'd get back into some projects. Your thread wasn't even on the last page anymore.


What else do you have planned? Didn't you have a poker table or something in the works?


Also, I was checking back through your thread about the LCD over your bar. You'd switched out the Monoprice tilt for a Peerless flat but never really showed the end result. Did you have trouble hooking up the connections on the back with it being so close to the wall?


Looking forward to the end result of the marquee. That design will look really good when it's backlit.


laters.


----------



## carboranadum

I'd be interested as well.


CJ


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/14243190
> 
> 
> I'm interested....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "HIGHLAND CINEMA"
> 
> 
> Would like to change the red stripes to blue and see what options we might have for letter colors if you go foward with this.



I can change the letter colors and fonts without any issues. The red neon has to stay though. I had to piece meal that and did not create it from scratch (my Photoshop skills are pretty basic).


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benson peculiar* /forum/post/14243539
> 
> 
> That's awesome man! I was wondering when you'd get back into some projects. Your thread wasn't even on the last page anymore.
> 
> 
> What else do you have planned? Didn't you have a poker table or something in the works?
> 
> 
> Also, I was checking back through your thread about the LCD over your bar. You'd switched out the Monoprice tilt for a Peerless flat but never really showed the end result. Did you have trouble hooking up the connections on the back with it being so close to the wall?
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the end result of the marquee. That design will look really good when it's backlit.
> 
> 
> laters.




Looking forward to working "back at home". I have to finish my daughters toy chest first. It's probably a couple hour job left though. Next I'll finish out the marquee and build the boxes for it. After that is the poker table. I have to go back and do some more research on that, its been a while since I looked.


The peerless mount is nice and only an inch thick. I don't have any new pics of the install. No problems installing at all. Chief Mounts just can out with a nice flat panel mount that looks promising too. Your biggest obstacle with these TVs is the power plug. If you use a regular outlet it tends to get in the way. If you use a clock outlet of other recessed options, that eliminates the plug issue.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14243758
> 
> 
> I'd be interested as well.
> 
> 
> CJ



Sounds good. I plan on ordering the roll of media today. I'll do a proof of concept and post pictures so you guys can see how it comes out. I plan on using the media on white plexiglass to give it rigidity in the frame, then install the frame on the box that houses the lights.


Bud


----------



## oman321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14243969
> 
> 
> I can change the letter colors and fonts without any issues. The red neon has to stay though. I had to piece meal that and did not create it from scratch (my Photoshop skills are pretty basic).
> 
> 
> Bud



That's cool,


I'll just make the letters blue then.







Looking foward to the proof.


----------



## chinadog

I went ahead and ordered the media, expect it to be here this week. Hopefully I'll have mine printed by the end of the weekend. Will post results obviously.


Bud


----------



## benson peculiar

Thanks for the info Bud, it definitely helps.


Best of luck with the marquee. Are you going to tie it in to your other switched outlets with your posters?


laters.


----------



## chinadog

Benson,


I think I'd going to put it where my concession sign actually is. I'll move the concession sign over to where the rack is and I'm move that mounted poster that's currently there to the bathroom! I can easily add another switched outlet since I have access to behind the wall under the stairs from my storage room.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

For those folks that tend to exceed the speed limit on occasion (you know who you are), I'm planning long drive and plan on using technology to assist my travels. First, I bought a new radar detector, the Escort Passport 9500ix with GPS. It has some great new features including an updateable database updates for location of red light and speed cameras. It's also allows you to mark speedtrap locations and remembers to remind you prior to getting there. Good stuff.


The next bit of technology is from a community web site called Trapster which allows users to use Google Maps to mark specific locations of speed traps, red light and speed cameras, then send you an email/text message as you approach them (via GPS support cell phone) OR allow you to download the caution spots onto your Garmin as POIs (points of interest), which is the route I took. Works well, you get 1/2 warning of the areas. You can, as a member of the community, rate those user entered POIs to ensure they're valid and you can filter out ones that have not been rated in case someone enters them in as a joke or whatever.

Pretty cool stuff!


Bud


----------



## Chiahead

Let us know how it works. I just bought the Garmin Nuvi 350 for a road trip ths October, and would love to hear how the POI's worked for you.


----------



## chinadog

Michael,


Works well so far, my commute is about 32 miles to downtown Atlanta and sure enough it pops up when you're close. Now not all traps have cops, since its just a potential location of a cop. Good to know for unfamiliar areas like vacation trips especially. For spots that I'm aware of, I've updated the map for my area. Right now I filter out those spots that are less then a medium threat (less than 5 confirmed votes), so the ones I added won't show up until they get more votes. The more people that use the technology, the better it gets. In my case I'll be able to mark those locations I've added with the new Escort with GPS to remind me they're there.


On the Garmin site there is a POI tool you download and use to install the POIs from a file that gets generated from Trapster. Pretty painless. It also supports Tom Tom and bunch of other devices, include Black Berries.


Overall, the Trapster website is not the easiest to figure out initially. Once you figure out how to register and start to download your POIs for your area, you're off and running. You can mark targeted areas on the map either with a circle (metro Atlanta say) or a rectangle (a highway or route). In my example, I'm heading to CT from Atlanta via route 81 through VA and PA. I went ahead and marked all these areas and created the POIs via Trapster, then downloaded them via the POI software for the Garmin.


Here is what it looks like to define my route. May not be the most efficient way of mapping it out, but it worked just fine. Once I'm through with the trip, then I'll change the area I want to cover back to metro Atlanta.











Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Hey Bud, you're going to be passing right through my neck of the woods. I live about 10 minutes from the junction of 81 and 84 in PA. Any interest in stopping in and hanging some fabric on my walls .


I do the 81 -> 84 stretch a lot. I work for "Big Blue" in Fishkill, NY and have to go up every now and then. The PA state police hang out around the Blooming Grove exit in PA.


Have a nice trip.


----------



## carboranadum

Bud:


You'll be coming through my area too. You'll pass through Winchester, VA...I'm about 3 miles off highway 81. Stop on by if you need a break and I'll give you a tour. Of course, any tips that you may have to offer would really be appreciated!











CJ


----------



## aaronlinkous

you'll be driving through my neck... wait.. nope... but have a safe trip... tell us how the equipment works out.


----------



## HeyNow^

After you leave CJ's place and pass through my area, I'll let the State Police know you are coming...


----------



## rgroves

You're passing about 1/2 mile from my house in good 'ol Knoxville, TN....


BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN GETTING TO KNOXVILLE!!! The cops are VERY HEAVY, and VERY PICKY all around Knoxville. With the I-40 closure and resulting diverted traffic, the cops are out in force. And watch the signs, the speed limit drops almost without warning (and YES the cops camp out the area and pace suspicious cars) from the outer edges at 55-60 to 40-45 near downtown.


As soon as you start seeing the signs for the I-40 detour, be VERY WATCHFUL! When you get to the Knox County line.... SLOW DOWN. The cops WILL pull you over for 6-10 MPH over the limit.


----------



## carboranadum

Since you'll be in my neck of the woods, maybe you can hand deliver the sign?











Have a great trip and remember, radar detectors are illegal in VA. Illegal to purchase, illegal to use. I do know from experience that they get really mad when they catch you using one...


CJ


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Great site Bud. I went to it and learned that they have red light cameras in PA. Oops. There are about a dozen lights on my new daily commute. Hope nothing comes in the mail.


You are driving by my new digs too. Safe travels.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/14264485
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, you're going to be passing right through my neck of the woods. I live about 10 minutes from the junction of 81 and 84 in PA. Any interest in stopping in and hanging some fabric on my walls .
> 
> 
> I do the 81 -> 84 stretch a lot. I work for "Big Blue" in Fishkill, NY and have to go up every now and then. The PA state police hang out around the Blooming Grove exit in PA.
> 
> 
> Have a nice trip.



Oh man! More like Black and Blue (from my experience).







I used to work out of Southbury.


I'd love to help if I had the time! Really. We'll be traveling mid week, stopping at Hershey on the way. Sure you've been there!


I'll have to see if your cop location is on the Trapster map...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14264557
> 
> 
> Bud:
> 
> 
> You'll be coming through my area too. You'll pass through Winchester, VA...I'm about 3 miles off highway 81. Stop on by if you need a break and I'll give you a tour. Of course, any tips that you may have to offer would really be appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CJ



If I could I would, likely you'd be at work when we pass through I would think. If the wife and kids we're with me I could do tours all the way up north it sounds like!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aaronlinkous* /forum/post/14265512
> 
> 
> you'll be driving through my neck... wait.. nope... but have a safe trip... tell us how the equipment works out.



I expect it'll work out nicely and will post my results.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14266362
> 
> 
> After you leave CJ's place and pass through my area, I'll let the State Police know you are coming...



Randy, sure and ask them to update the Trapster map so I know how to get in touch with them while you're at it!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgroves* /forum/post/14266558
> 
> 
> You're passing about 1/2 mile from my house in good 'ol Knoxville, TN....
> 
> 
> BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN GETTING TO KNOXVILLE!!! The cops are VERY HEAVY, and VERY PICKY all around Knoxville. With the I-40 closure and resulting diverted traffic, the cops are out in force. And watch the signs, the speed limit drops almost without warning (and YES the cops camp out the area and pace suspicious cars) from the outer edges at 55-60 to 40-45 near downtown.
> 
> 
> As soon as you start seeing the signs for the I-40 detour, be VERY WATCHFUL! When you get to the Knox County line.... SLOW DOWN. The cops WILL pull you over for 6-10 MPH over the limit.



Oh great. Any other construction up 81? Thanks for the heads up. Thinking we're going to spent the night in Bristol, but haven't decided yet.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14266636
> 
> 
> Since you'll be in my neck of the woods, maybe you can hand deliver the sign?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a great trip and remember, radar detectors are illegal in VA. Illegal to purchase, illegal to use. I do know from experience that they get really mad when they catch you using one...
> 
> 
> CJ



Yes, will unplug it while in VA. Don't need no stinkin' detector detectors picking me up, so I'll put it on cruise and watch the Garmin. BTW, there are celebrity "navtones" for the Garmin now. My son wants me to change mine to Yoda....


On the sign, the media was delivered and I'm hoping to have mine done by Monday, so I'll post results. You need to send me a PM with what you want with yours and I'll figure up the media/ink/shipping costs.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/14267500
> 
> 
> Great site Bud. I went to it and learned that they have red light cameras in PA. Oops. There are about a dozen lights on my new daily commute. Hope nothing comes in the mail.
> 
> 
> You are driving by my new digs too. Safe travels.



Dave, thanks. Thought there would be some interest here on Trapster, so what the heck.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

If the weather permits you might want to think about doing a segment of the Skyline Drive.


----------



## chinadog

Big, got a link? Not sure what that is.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

It runs along the ridge-line of the mountains to the east of Interstate 81.










http://www.nps.gov/shen/index.htm 


Pic from 2006


----------



## mn_hokie

It's part of the Blue Ridge Parkway, if I recall.


----------



## chinadog

Cool! I'll see how things go, but that would be great. I don want to get to Harrisburg/Hershey early enough to so the kids cane go to the amusement park... they have an evening ticket (like half cost). If we can get out on the road early enough, may be a great scenic ride. Thanks for the info!


Bud


----------



## oman321

Hey Bud,


Thanks for the preview of the sign. I was wondering (not sure if you mentioned this before, when you first started working on your sign) do you plan to or what type of lettering do you use on the marquee? Do you actually display movies your showing on it?


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14276828
> 
> 
> Cool! I'll see how things go, but that would be great. I don want to get to Harrisburg/Hershey early enough to so the kids cane go to the amusement park... they have an evening ticket (like half cost). If we can get out on the road early enough, may be a great scenic ride. Thanks for the info!
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud:


Skyline drive is beautiful and the drive is wonderful, but it's slow. The speed limit is 35 and there are only 2 or 3 ways to get on/off. We drive down and hike some of the trails quite frequently.


Hershey Park is fun. I was there two weekends ago. It was awesome. If your children are into big coasters, then this is a great place. I think you'll find that you won't have nearly enough time to see anything except the highlights, but 5 hours can make for a fun time, especially at night. Be sure to take a ride on the StormChaser, Great Bear, and the new Fahrenheit coasters.


This was my kids first experience with big coasters (they are 10 and 12). They absolutely loved them. We've even been looking into a trip to Sandusky to coaster heaven.


You're bound to have a blast!


CJ


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/14277240
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the preview of the sign. I was wondering (not sure if you mentioned this before, when you first started working on your sign) do you plan to or what type of lettering do you use on the marquee? Do you actually display movies your showing on it?



Orlando,


With the original plan I was going to use vinyl lettering and change out the movie/event on occasion. Letters would stick via static cling. I'll order some letters and see how all that works. I know there are clear "rails" you can get too to hold the letters in place if need be. Another option is to include a permanent/hard code a phrase as part of the image like "Welcome and enjoy the show" or your favorite movie or something like that.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14277569
> 
> 
> Bud:
> 
> 
> Skyline drive is beautiful and the drive is wonderful, but it's slow. The speed limit is 35 and there are only 2 or 3 ways to get on/off. We drive down and hike some of the trails quite frequently.
> 
> 
> Hershey Park is fun. I was there two weekends ago. It was awesome. If your children are into big coasters, then this is a great place. I think you'll find that you won't have nearly enough time to see anything except the highlights, but 5 hours can make for a fun time, especially at night. Be sure to take a ride on the StormChaser, Great Bear, and the new Fahrenheit coasters.
> 
> 
> This was my kids first experience with big coasters (they are 10 and 12). They absolutely loved them. We've even been looking into a trip to Sandusky to coaster heaven.
> 
> 
> You're bound to have a blast!
> 
> 
> CJ



CJ, thanks for the info.I expect we'll (my son and I) do many of the coasters, but since he's still eight, we may not do them all. He'll be disappointed, but they have height restrictions for a reason, although he's quite tall, so you never know.


Bud


----------



## Jasonn B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14276828
> 
> 
> Cool! I'll see how things go, but that would be great. I don want to get to Harrisburg/Hershey early enough to so the kids cane go to the amusement park... they have an evening ticket (like half cost). If we can get out on the road early enough, may be a great scenic ride. Thanks for the info!
> 
> 
> Bud



I live 7 miles from Hershey parrk


----------



## oman321

Cool, that what I was picturing, vynil letters that would be interchangable if not I will do the other hard print like you said.


----------



## chinadog

Well, no marquee this evening, he didn't get to it, but he said he'd do it tonight.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got the marquee done, looks great from what I can see (haven't rolled it all out yet since I'm at work). I'll take some pictures tonight. Now I need to build the light box for it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Couple of shots of the marquee on the dining room table. Very happy with the quality of the printing and media. Not sure if it'll need white plexi as a diffuser or not, since the material is actually a milky white. I wasn't able to put it up to a light to see how transparent it'll look, but I can see the pattern of the table cloth through the white area, so I expect it'll be fine.



















The material has that "memory" where after its been rolled up it won't stay that way... it just unrolls and lays flat. Next up is finding some time to build the box.


Bud


----------



## oman321

Wow, that looks great Bud.


Pretty cool how it just lays flat after being rolled up.


----------



## chinadog

One option for letters, might be too large and these are expensive. Will continue to look.

http://www.photomagnets.com/clingletters.html 


Bud


----------



## oman321

 http://superclings.com/letter_kits.htm 


Found some 3" ones here but only in yellow/red and blue/white.


----------



## chinadog

Back from vacation with no tickets! We had a great time and the drive was very scenic. No major construction and not a lot of traffic, which makes for a nice trip. We did not take the Skyline Drive due to time constraints heading to Hershey, but my wife may on the way back (she's still up North). Hershey Park was a blast for the kids and they loved the tour.Very clean and laid out well. We're talking about going back next year already.


The Escort worked really, really well. Interesting with GPS though, as you're on the highway driving through a city, it'll alert red light cameras that were in the vicinity off the highway. The other interesting thing was how it learned false alerts automatically. If you go through an area and it picks up a signal from a store, it knows its position (GPS). If you come back twice more and it picks it up, it'll learn that its a store and will no longer alert after that.


The Trapster POIs worked really well too. Now none of the traps had cops in them, but thats OK. I was surprised how many it knew about, but obviously this is directed correlated to the number that people enter into the system. We didn't see many cops in VA, and did see some in TN, PA and NY though.


I'm hoping to get to work this weekend and finished up a few things, including the box for the marquee.


Bud


----------



## oman321

Welcome back,


Glad smokey didn't get ya.


----------



## HeyNow^

Yeah, Bud welcome back. I was camping out at the under pass on route 81 hoping to see you go by....You must have gone by in the evening...


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14409052
> 
> 
> Yeah, Bud welcome back. I was camping out at the under pass on route 81 hoping to see you go by....You must have gone by in the evening...



Was that you with the sniper rifle?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/14408542
> 
> 
> Welcome back,
> 
> 
> Glad smokey didn't get ya.



You and me both...


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14409157
> 
> 
> Was that you with the sniper rifle?
> 
> 
> Bud



Then that was you!


----------



## oman321

Hey Bud,


I was at A.C. Moore last Friday looking for printable Iron On paper. If they're not local to you basically a large Arts and Craft store. While searching I found some stuff that might be good for the marquee. First I found 2-3" letter packs that could be used. Unfortunately, none of them seemed to be the static cling type but more of a permanent adhesive solution.


Then I saw static cling sheets which can be printed on with Inkjet printers. Maybe these might work to print up the lettering and then have it cut in to rectangles. Maybe it will give that look of actual lettering plates used on theater signs.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hey Bud,


How did your son's surgery go? Hope all is well!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/14428223
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> I was at A.C. Moore last Friday looking for printable Iron On paper. If they're not local to you basically a large Arts and Craft store. While searching I found some stuff that might be good for the marquee. First I found 2-3" letter packs that could be used. Unfortunately, none of them seemed to be the static cling type but more of a permanent adhesive solution.
> 
> 
> Then I saw static cling sheets which can be printed on with Inkjet printers. Maybe these might work to print up the lettering and then have it cut in to rectangles. Maybe it will give that look of actual lettering plates used on theater signs.



Interested in seeing the static cling sheets. Makes perfect sense to print your own instead of spending the 50.00 for premade letters.


We actually had company in town last weekend, so that put the Kabosh on any marquee work.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14428399
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> How did your son's surgery go? Hope all is well!



Randy, thanks for asking. The surgery was successful, they had to go in just so they didn't hit a nerve. The soft cast lasted a few days until he go to the orthopedic back here in Atlanta. They put a hard cast on (a black one - my son's choice) for three weeks. At three weeks I guess the pins come out and they make a decision whether to put on a new cast or not.


He's dealing with the cast thing, although he's had some actual nightmares about the whole broken arm thing. The first few nights last week he'd get up in the middle of the night screaming at the top of his lungs and saying "I think I broke my arm!". He seems better now.


Bud


----------



## jerrodshook

Bud,


Love the marquee! I never thought I'd want one of those, but after seeing it, I might have to go that route.


I have more catching up to do on your thread. Curious to see how the star ceiling turned out. I finally got my bar done and will try and post some pics tonight. I had to re-link all of the pictures in my thread because the site I had them on was shut down. The was fun updating the 100's of pictures in there......


Glad to hear your son is OK. I had a broken arm when I was 5. 2 operations and 2 separate stints with a cast on. Certainly not fun!


----------



## fishlee

O，good。


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14438876
> 
> 
> Randy, thanks for asking. The surgery was successful, they had to go in just so they didn't hit a nerve. The soft cast lasted a few days until he go to the orthopedic back here in Atlanta. They put a hard cast on (a black one - my son's choice) for three weeks. At three weeks I guess the pins come out and they make a decision whether to put on a new cast or not.
> 
> 
> He's dealing with the cast thing, although he's had some actual nightmares about the whole broken arm thing. The first few nights last week he'd get up in the middle of the night screaming at the top of his lungs and saying "I think I broke my arm!". He seems better now.
> 
> 
> Bud



Great to hear Bud. Kids bounce back from some pretty extreme accidents. Tell him we are all pullin' for him to get well soon.


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/6037184
> 
> 
> I'm going with the Ascend 340s in the front. I haven't bought them yet. Because my side surrounds are in a weird location (above the door) and the fact that I didn't want columns, I'm putting in in-ceilings for the side surrounds. I just decided to match the rear surrounds as well, instead of going with in-walls or on-walls. I did a little investigation (including talking to Ascend) and Ascend recommends the S622TRs to match the Ascends. I ordered two pair last week from two different companies and one arrived today. They'll fit perfectly where I need them in the side soffit. Also, the in-ceilings that I put in the bar/gameroom are Hometech, which apparently are also made by Sonance. Anyway, they're pretty reasonable for surrounds. I plan on getting the Ascends in the not so distant future, when I have the cash. In the meantime I'll start building my proscenium and stage using the Ascend dimensions published in mind and adding some for flexibility or change of mind later.
> 
> 
> Here's the Sonance site



Bud,


After all this time, what's your opinion of the Ascends? I'm thinking of doing a 7.1 system with 340's and 200's for the surrounds. I was dead set on Aperion's, but their prices went up enough with their new line that I started looking again.


Also, does you Hsu sub sit on top of your stage? Mine will and I'm a little worried about firing all that sound down into it. My stage if full of sand and seems rock solid, but who knows what years of firing a sub down on it will do.


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/14519551
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> After all this time, what's your opinion of the Ascends? I'm thinking of doing a 7.1 system with 340's and 200's for the surrounds. I was dead set on Aperion's, but their prices went up enough with their new line that I started looking again.
> 
> 
> Also, does you Hsu sub sit on top of your stage? Mine will and I'm a little worried about firing all that sound down into it. My stage if full of sand and seems rock solid, but who knows what years of firing a sub down on it will do.



I'm not Bud so forgive me for jumping in on your questions...but I have the same Ascend's that Bud does (bought in about the same time frame as well) but with a Rocket "bigfoot" center channel. I like the Ascends and don't think you can go wrong with them in their price range.


As for the sub - don't sweat it. Look at the thing I have sitting on (or, rather as a part of) my stage...


----------



## mastiff34

I'll speak to the ascends as well, having them for like 6 months for all my front speakers, I love em. Great sound! I have the hsu sub as well, but its in the back of the room and I dont have a stage, but I love the sub, nice deep bass.


----------



## jerrodshook

Gotta agree. I bought my Ascends around the same tim eBud got his. I have 3 - 340SE's across the front and 4 other 170's for surrounds. Great sound!!!


----------



## BritInVA

I too have 3 Ascend 340SE's across the front - I like the sound but am no audiophile.


----------



## ejhuzy

Well, seeing as how I already hijacked Bud's thread, let me ask you Ascend fans this. Do you guys have three 340's behind a AT screen? If so, do you use the "special" center or just a regular 340? Right now I'm really leaning to 3 identical 340's for my LCR.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/14439261
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Love the marquee! I never thought I'd want one of those, but after seeing it, I might have to go that route.
> 
> 
> I have more catching up to do on your thread. Curious to see how the star ceiling turned out. I finally got my bar done and will try and post some pics tonight. I had to re-link all of the pictures in my thread because the site I had them on was shut down. The was fun updating the 100's of pictures in there......
> 
> 
> Glad to hear your son is OK. I had a broken arm when I was 5. 2 operations and 2 separate stints with a cast on. Certainly not fun!



Jerrod,


Happy to do a marquee up for you when I have a moment (photoshop is the easy part). Running in place at the moment. VERY busy at work.


Sucks about the pictures. I would just shoot myself.


Saw your updates on the bar! Came out great!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/14519551
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> After all this time, what's your opinion of the Ascends? I'm thinking of doing a 7.1 system with 340's and 200's for the surrounds. I was dead set on Aperion's, but their prices went up enough with their new line that I started looking again.
> 
> 
> Also, does you Hsu sub sit on top of your stage? Mine will and I'm a little worried about firing all that sound down into it. My stage if full of sand and seems rock solid, but who knows what years of firing a sub down on it will do.



Ed,


LOVE THEM! I think I turned a lot of these guys on to them.







I wouldn't trade them for nothin'. Really a great bang for the buck. Yuo really can't go wrong with these. Seriously.


My HSU is on the stage, no problems at all. Another great bang for the buck. I'm sure the stage will be just fine.


Let us know if you pull the trigger on the Ascends/Hsu.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/14522056
> 
> 
> Well, seeing as how I already hijacked Bud's thread, let me ask you Ascend fans this. Do you guys have three 340's behind a AT screen? If so, do you use the "special" center or just a regular 340? Right now I'm really leaning to 3 identical 340's for my LCR.



There is a 340SE Center to go with the 340SE Mains. I don't have a AT screen, but believe some of the others do. I'm sure they'll be just fine.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sorry for the late replies and the lack of focus on the marquee, just been pretty damn busy. Stay tuned there is a holiday weekend looming.


Bud


----------



## ebr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejhuzy* /forum/post/14522056
> 
> 
> Well, seeing as how I already hijacked Bud's thread, let me ask you Ascend fans this. Do you guys have three 340's behind a AT screen? If so, do you use the "special" center or just a regular 340? Right now I'm really leaning to 3 identical 340's for my LCR.



As I said, I don't use an Ascend for my center but all my mains are behind a screen and I can answer your question because for a while I was planning on getting a third Ascend and researched the issue.


According to Ascend the 340SE "center" speaker is designed slightly differently for two reasons - 1) it is designed to be placed horizontally instead of vertically (different tweeter dispersion) and 2) I think it has some crossover adjustments to compensate for being in a cabinet or close proximity to a large surface (TV).


If you will have your three mains behind a screen you will not want/need the 340 center channel. You will want a third identical 340SE. You'll need to call Ascend to order this as there is no option for a single one on the website (or at least there wasn't a year or so ago).


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/14523044
> 
> 
> As I said, I don't use an Ascend for my center but all my mains are behind a screen and I can answer your question because for a while I was planning on getting a third Ascend and researched the issue.
> 
> 
> According to Ascend the 340SE "center" speaker is designed slightly differently for two reasons - 1) it is designed to be placed horizontally instead of vertically (different tweeter dispersion) and 2) I think it has some crossover adjustments to compensate for being in a cabinet or close proximity to a large surface (TV).
> 
> 
> If you will have your three mains behind a screen you will not want/need the 340 center channel. You will want a third identical 340SE. You'll need to call Ascend to order this as there is no option for a single one on the website (or at least there wasn't a year or so ago).



Thanks ebr for chiming in. That's great info and you won't find it on the Ascend website







. I'd say there's a good chance I'm ordering the Ascends/Hsu tomorrow!


Enough of this thread hijacking. Back to what Bud's up to...


----------



## ronnie_jackson

I use the 340' SE's across the front. I went with the SE Center channel design for the center. While I cant directly compare the difference between going with the specialized center vs using a regular main for the center, I can say that the sound I get is incredible. I couldnt be happier. They are extremely well matched!! I would buy another set in a heartbeat if I had to do it again










Ronnie


----------



## warrenP

Aloha!


Belated congrats on the EH spot, and on crossing 500K views to your thread!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Warren!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got a little motivated today and made some progress on my daughters toy chest. It's been partially complete since the end of March. After about 4 hours, I was worn out so I'd done for today. Here are some shots:



























I still need to:


1. Put some supports in the top/seat. I glued three boards up for the top, although I didn't use biscuits, I'm concerned that the board may pull apart with a lot of abuse. I just need to glue/screw some cross braces.


2. Put some molding around the base, the panels and the top of the box to give it some character.


3. More sanding, caulk and paint.


4. Put on the piano hinge and the child safety brackets.


5. Carry that damn thing up three flights of stairs.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

I could sleep in that box! Lot of room there! Nice work Bud.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Looks kind of like a coffin to me. Sleep tight.


----------



## chinadog

Ha! A DIY coffin! I should submit that to Family Handyman. Maybe I should start a side business....


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/14565112
> 
> 
> Looks kind of like a coffin to me. Sleep tight.



Hahahaha...

That is what I was thinking!!


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/13891183
> 
> 
> Couple of better shots of the star ceiling. I got a PM from urquell (Tom) with a few tips. These came out a little better, but I'm still clueless when it comes to photography. Had a real hard time getting the blue rope to really show up. Thanks again to Lisa and Scott at Numinus.
> 
> 
> The Who at the Isle of Wright on MHD:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just a ceiling shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



That is just insane!!

What can I say but... I want one!!!!


EDIT: Bud, how many stars do you have in that space? It looks very real.


----------



## chinadog

Never actually counted them!










I would guess guess 75-100 per panel, so somewhere in the 225-300 area for the whole ceiling. I would PM LisaLynn and maybe she can look at the order or knows about how many they do in a 8'x10' section.


Bud


----------



## suffolk112000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14568956
> 
> 
> Never actually counted them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess guess 75-100 per panel, so somewhere in the 225-300 area for the whole ceiling. I would PM LisaLynn and maybe she can look at the order or knows about how many they do in a 8'x10' section.
> 
> 
> Bud



Hehehehehehe... LMAO!!!









I just figured perhaps they had different levels of panels.

I am going to guess that 75 –100 per panel is a bit low.

3 panels right?

The reason I ask, is I am trying to figure what I would need to consider for my space if I ever do a star ceiling.


----------



## ebr

I'll bet there's less than 200 stars in the whole ceiling...


----------



## chinadog

Dunno, the panels ar 40"x96" and I counted about 80 last night on one panel. There are three.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14572035
> 
> 
> Dunno, the panels ar 40"x96" and I counted about 80 last night on one panel. There are three.
> 
> 
> Bud




..the family is staring at the screen watching a movie and Bud's staring at the ceiling counting stars....


Classic! Now *THAT's* dedication!


CJ


----------



## BritInVA

Bud - The star ceiling looks great, now you have had the star ceiling in a while just wondering if you keep it on during the main movie. I found mine a distration so its only really used now when we have vistors during any pre-movie or when kids have friends over.


Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14572202
> 
> 
> ..the family is staring at the screen watching a movie and Bud's staring at the ceiling counting stars....
> 
> 
> Classic! Now *THAT's* dedication!
> 
> 
> CJ



LOL!







We were watching Over the Hedge... for about the 15th time....


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/14572485
> 
> 
> Bud - The star ceiling looks great, now you have had the star ceiling in a while just wondering if you keep it on during the main movie. I found mine a distration so its only really used now when we have vistors during any pre-movie or when kids have friends over.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Mark,


I actually DO keep it on during movies. I guess I've gotten used to it and don't really notice the distraction. It does however, give you more ambient light than you'd expect it would. Not much, just enough to give you a little light to get around the room easily if you got up.


I also have it programmed into to my "play movie" scene so it automatically comes on when you hit play. If I ever wanted to turn it off, I need to get off my ass and do it manually.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Hey Bud, any words of wisdom for working with the parts express grill magnets? The web site says to use a 3/8" drill bit, but the magnets don't fit in the hole for me (hate when that happens ). How about which glue did you use? I'm thinking Gorilla right now.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Ed.


I used Gorilla Glue as well, but keep in mind it expands. Off the top of my head, not sure on the drill bit size. But do some trial runs on some scrap board to make sure you have the right size.


What I did was to use a smaller bit and drilled completely through the panel and into the frame. This allows you to get an exact place of where the magnet goes for both sides of the magnet. I would then go back with the bigger bit and use the smaller bit as a pilot hole, drilling only as deep as I needed. Make sure you don't go too deep, since it'll be a bear to get the magnet out if you push it in too far. Make sure you mark the bit with some tape as a depth gauge or something to that effect. Also, make sure you have the polarities correct for the magnets. You don't want to glue them in and find out you have one reversed. Mark them with a sharpie or something.


Good luck!


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


Thanks for the tips on the magnets. I'm going to have to play with the glue to see how much it expands. From your pictures it looks like you glued over the top of the magnet too. Is that right?


BTW, I ended up buying the Ascends. I got three 340-SE mains for the fronts and four HTM-200's for the surrounds. I also got a Hsu VTF2-MK3. They are all sitting in my HT right now waiting to be hooked up.










I put up fabric tonight, but I'm planning on switching to finishing my screen wall so I can hang the screen and pj. The anticipation is killing me!


Thanks as always for all the help.


----------



## chinadog

So for you marquee fans, I'm thinking about something more sophisticated now, something more than just a light box design. I had originally (way back), had thought about a semicircle type of marquee that was small enough to hang over my door outside the theater. I'd still chewing on that. I'm also considering more of a three dimensional marquee, conceptually similar to this, but on a much smaller scale and without the lights (or maybe incorporate some lighting, maybe use EL tape, dunno). Maybe bring it off the wall a 18-24", but would have to incorporate a way to keep it level and not drop. Maybe have supports from the front of the marquee to the back wall or ceiling.











I'll try and draw something up.


Bud


----------



## oman321

Just getting a red box, but I'm curios


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14629868
> 
> 
> So for you marquee fans, I'm thinking about something more sophisticated now, something more than just a light box design. I had originally (way back), had thought about a semicircle type of marquee that was small enough to hang over my door outside the theater. I'd still chewing on that. I'm also considering more of a three dimensional marquee, conceptually similar to this, but on a much smaller scale and without the lights (or maybe incorporate some lighting, maybe use EL tape, dunno). Maybe bring it off the wall a 18-24", but would have to incorporate a way to keep it level and not drop. Maybe have supports from the front of the marquee to the back wall or ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try and draw something up.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud -- sounds great! However, the pic is not showing


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/14633275
> 
> 
> Bud -- sounds great! However, the pic is not showing



Oops. Pointed to it, but fixed it by downloading a copy.


Bud


----------



## mn_hokie

Have you check out the ones that are more like triangles? basically its 2-sided and comes to a point? Just a thought.


----------



## chinadog

I've seen them, but it's just not the look I had in mind. Same with the trapezoidal thingamajig. Just not what I had in mind.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Almost a month....don't fall off the face of the earth dude....how's the son's arm doing?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy,


Still around some, but pretty slammed at work. Not sure if I mentioned it or not, but I took a job over in the infrastructure operations group back in June and we have a lot going on getting ready for some launches next week and preparing for the elections in November. We're projecting somewhere in the order of 1.3B page views for the two day period (11/4 and 11/5).


The son is doing well, got the cast off and is back to normal. We played catch last weekend and he seemed fine. He's all excited for the Clone War series that starts tonight on Cartoon Network (we also host the cartoonnetwork.com sites). I picked up a Clone Wars tee shirt and some action figures yesterday from the Turner store here.


I haven't done anything in a few weeks in the basement. In fact, I need to rebuild the lid for my daughters "coffin", since it warped. It's likely I won't do squat until after the Elections.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


Good to see you and the family are doing well.


I made a coffin/toy box for my son many years ago and mine warped as well. I guess a bread board type construction would keep that from happening.


I can't see much left for you to do in the basement since it's fantastic as is.


----------



## chinadog

Me? I'm voting for Paul Konold and his pirate theater...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1073127 


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14811937
> 
> 
> Me? I'm voting for Paul Konold and his pirate theater...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1073127
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud -- always vote for yourself!! You know the politicians do


----------



## carboranadum

I voted for Bud!


Congrats Bud. Even if you don't "win", I think your build is the coolest finished one yet!


CJ


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the votes guys. As they say, it's an honor to be nominated. I just stumbled across this today, I knew nothing about it... really. I'd putting any winnings right back into the theater... Wonder if Home Depot carries that new Sony BluRay BDP-550 I'm gonna get next?










Or... could be seed money for a HT meet! (read beer AND food)










Bud


----------



## queendvd2

My vote definitely goes to Bud. Congrats on the nomination. I love this thread!


----------



## HeyNow^

I voted for you Bud because you have shared your hard work in great detail with us all. Plus your work is not bad either







I love the Pirate Theater too. You have always kept yourself accessable no matter how small a question a visitor to your thread had. We all appreciate your dedication to the hobby. Good luck!


----------



## BritInVA

Bud for me too


Pirates was close 2nd but Buds help and inspiration tipped the bar


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Bald men unite! One vote cast.


----------



## swithey

You got (2) votes from me -- Mr. Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/14816753
> 
> 
> Bald men unite! One vote cast.



I prefer hair challenged ...







Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/14818207
> 
> 
> You got (2) votes from me -- Mr. Bud



Cool! Twice the thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So the wife is gonna shoot me....well, maybe.


I just ordered the Sony BDP-550 BluRay player from SonyStyle.com. It was 399.00 (100.00 price drop) plus tax , but if you open a Sony Style Credit card, you get a 150.00 credit. That brings it down to 250.00 plus tax basically. Not a bad deal, really. Free shipping too.


Bud


----------



## ScruffyHT

I just voted ... Blazing Ridge of course










one question ... it may be answered elsewhere but there is a dollar value attached to the theatre builds ... does that amount include the equiptment ?( projector/avr/screen etc )


----------



## chinadog

Scruff, thanks. Yes, the 18K includes everything in the finished HT room. Equipment, rack, projector, seats and the rest of the finishing. Does not cover the rest of the basement though. There is a breakdown of costs somewhere, there is probably a link in the index.


Bud


----------



## Gerry S

Another vote here for Bud. Thanks for the detailed thread and all the great ideas Bud. Plus, I always root for the home team!!


-Gerry


----------



## ScruffyHT

Thanks Bud ... I was trying to figure how my own theatre/basement will compare costwise


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Scruffy, where's your construction thread?










Bud


----------



## bigbadbob

Awesome thread. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## ScruffyHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14823217
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. Scruffy, where's your construction thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



LOL ... I will post up pictures when I feel I have made " significant " progress










Right now I am almost ready to have the electrician come over to hook up the sub-panel for the basement and energize the plugs/lights ... just does not feel like a room till you see drywall so I will start a build thread then










All components have been purchased and tested in the room but I also have to stage the development starting with the games room first so the kids have somewhere to go and hang with friends, spare bedroom/hallway next, theatre after that and then bathroom


I am doing all the work myself so it takes a bit longer as some parts are " learn as you go "


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbadbob* /forum/post/14824528
> 
> 
> Awesome thread. Thanks for sharing!



Not problem at all. Welcome to the fun!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScruffyHT* /forum/post/14825979
> 
> 
> I am doing all the work myself so it takes a bit longer as some parts are " learn as you go "



Nah, create the thread and we'll "teach you before you start"!










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Yep, Bud and the experts will edumacate you....


----------



## suffolk112000

You got my vote Bud.

If you win, you have to have a meet.


----------



## ScruffyHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14834284
> 
> 
> Nah, create the thread and we'll "teach you before you start"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



heh ... I will have to think about that ... I am edumucatin' myself here every day and so far so good










maybe after the electrician I will clean the rooms all up and snap some pics ... insulation for ceilings and interior walls should show up tomorrow ... a few more speaker cables and conduit to run ( monoprice order ) ... figure by end of October I should be ready to start a thread just before drywall ( have to sell my motorcycle to get the funds to finish it all







sort of bittersweet really ) but bike season is basically over so I have the winter to save for my next bike


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suffolk112000* /forum/post/14836667
> 
> 
> You got my vote Bud.
> 
> If you win, you have to have a meet.



Thanks man, although I think I'm far behind, but would love to have a meet.


Bud


----------



## Driving_Hamster

Bud,


I'm in the market to have someone make a plexiglass insert for a ticket booth I am designing. You mentioned back around post 2760 (or so) that you used "Jason's brother". Seems he did a good job. Think he would be interested in making another one? It would need to be shipped though since I live in PA.


Voted for your theater by the way







.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks for the vote!


Actually, it's Jason's brother in law. You might want to PM Jason (jikkjack) and check with him.


Bud


----------



## Driving_Hamster

Will do, thanks.


----------



## chinadog

My Sony BDP-S550 got delivered yesterday. Wasn't expecting it until Tuesday though, so I'm "Bluray discless" at the moment. I did however hook it up last night and my son and I watched "Duma" on DVD and it upscales great. I just pulled out the HDDVD player temporarily and used it's HDMI connection, power cord and IR blaster to get it going. Last night I updated my H880, but haven't tested it yet. Reminds me that I have a spare MX-980 for that room to program (or Jason to program).


Leaving shortly to head to "da BEARS" game, they're plaing those Atlanta birds at the GA Dome. My son and I are going and we ended up with tickets in the end zone somewhere. Should be a good game actually.


Maybe I'll pick up "Transformers" on Bluray on the way home....


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Sorry about the Bears...







Hope you and the son had a great time though....My Redskins gave one away to day


----------



## chinadog

Randy, yeah, thought we had 'em. Falcons played a great game though.


Picked up Iron Man, Pearl Harbor, I Am Legend and the new Rambo on BD on my way home to drown my sorrows.










Bud


----------



## jikkjack

Ha ha! It was win/win for Bud. That was a damn good game and he was going to be blu no matter what the outcome!


Bud - tell us what you think of that player.


----------



## mastiff34

Bud,

Does that player take 5 minutes to boot like the other players?


-Matt


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys.


The 550 is pretty nice, I like the interface (similar to the PS3) and the upscaling is as good as the A2. I watched Iron Man and Rambo last night as it looks/sounds great. Now keep in mind I don't have a 1080p projector (yet), nor does the receiver support 1080p, but very happy overall. I'll work on those other two "issues" next year. Still playing with the decoding options, like trying to get Rambo to play in 7.1.


Matt, boots in no time at all, like 30 seconds. The only thing that I've noticed is a slight delay in processing a remote click (like from pause to play). No big deal though.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I think it was your model that was reviewed in HT mag this month. Since I am still using a 720p projector also, I am using my A2 HDDVD player to upscale, I'm going to wait to go Blu.


Hope you enjoy that bad boy.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


Actually this was the Sony BDP-S350 , which also came out. Some minor differences (which I forget off the top of my head). This one was 399.00 and is now 299.00 from Sony Style. Also, if you get the Sony credit card, *you can get the BDP-S350 for 149.99 with the 150.00 credit from Sony*. Can't beat that.


Yes, I get Home Theater Mag AND Electronic House! Oh yeah, Family Handyman, too.


PS, Happy 4000!


Bud


----------



## jikkjack

4000! That's a lot of posts!


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, I've racked up a few myself ....










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Who just passed 4K posts? Not me!


edit; Duh me...congrats Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Interesting. So apparently someone wrote a script/macro to skew the vote totals for the Electronic House DIY theater poll. Pretty disappointing. Just yesterday the numbers were in in the hundreds (I think I was tied for third or something) and now the totals are out of control. Apparently you could vote more than once, but the numbers shot up *WAY* too quickly for me to believe that the vote tallies are legit. Oh well.


You have to vote again to see the totals page to see what I'm talking about.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1073127 


Bud


----------



## miltimj

Wow, that's too bad... that the webmasters have no idea how to setup even the least bit of filtering for a poll, enough to make it completely useless.


----------



## BritInVA

Hmmm.... I wonder what else that PC was put to work to do.


----------



## mastiff34

Bud,

Need me to write a script quick to fix you back to where you were ? =(


----------



## miltimj

No kidding.. about 10 lines and a half hour later and he's got a million votes!


----------



## akakillroy

I call BS!


----------



## jikkjack

That sux man.


----------



## HeyNow^

Hey Bud,


Are you going to get the new Panny 1080P projector to go with that Blu player you have now? Can't beat the new price....I'm thinkin' about it.....


----------



## chinadog

Well, looks like they cut off the voting (was suppose to go until 10/31) as far as I can tell. Looks like someone also bumped me up in the polls before that happened to third place, so thanks to you. Not sure why they plan on doing with this, since I didn't know anything about it until I discovered it.


Bud


----------



## jikkjack









- wonder how that happened. hmmm....


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14876980
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> Are you going to get the new Panny 1080P projector to go with that Blu player you have now? Can't beat the new price....I'm thinkin' about it.....



Randy,


At the moment I'll likely go with the Panasonic AE3000 in the spring. Who know what will happen in the meantime. Not sure if I'd upgrade my receiver then (unlikely), but will do that at some point as well since it only supports 1080i. I can bypass the receiver for video just for the BD player by adding a second HDMI cable to the projector (the AE3000 has three HDMI inputs I think) and route the audio only to the receiver until then.


Bud


----------



## oman321

Bud, I was wondering if their was any progress on the marquee. Don't need it anytime soon, but I was hoping you would still be able to provide the prints from that material when you get some time.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/14902699
> 
> 
> Bud, I was wondering if their was any progress on the marquee. Don't need it anytime soon, but I was hoping you would still be able to provide the prints from that material when you get some time.



I will not plan on doing anything with mine until after the Elections, but I believe all I had left was the star balancing for you. I can do that at anytime, then get it printed. Be happy to take care of that this week.


Bud


----------



## oman321

No worries, after the elections when you have more time is fine too.


Hope they fix the voting thing and that it works out for you, you had my vote. I knew their was something funny when you couldn't go back in to check the stats unless you re-voted. Thanks again.


----------



## chinadog

Actually, I have no idea what they'e doing with the vote. Nobody has contacted me about it at this point. I'll let everyone know once I know something.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So I scored a BIGGIE through work for my son. The had a huge banner for the Clone Wars series on Cartoon Network hanging in the CNN Center atrium promoting the series. I was down there the other day having lunch talking to a co-worker and said to him "I'd love to get that banner for my kid, he loves the Clone Wars series".


Sure enough, coming in to work today I saw the guys taking down the banner so I stopped and asked them what they were going to do with it. Typically they return them to their owners, he said. I asked him if he wouldn't mind having the owner call me and gave him my business card. After a meeting today I walk back to my office and there it was on my desk, he just dropped it off.


He's gonna be so excited. I'll have to figure out how to make it work on his wall. It's like 15' x 6' if I had to guess. It's basically a huge Yoda with a green light sabre. I'll take pictures this weekend.


Happy Halloween!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Score!! He's gonna love that!


----------



## Dinger23

no matter how the vote turns out you should be honored to just be published for all your hard work.


----------



## queendvd2

Hey Bud, congrats on the third place finish. I know, not as gratifying as first place, but 100 bucks is still great. Well deserved!


----------



## akakillroy

Ya he can buy what, a couple Blu-Ray's or maybe a replacement butt shaker, sheesh. I think his work deserved better than that. I believe it was rigged ;-)


Great work!


----------



## chinadog

So here we go. Room is a sty, but at least I got the banner up. I had to fold under the ends because it was too long. I think the banner is like 20 feet and the room is 15 wide. Notice the other Yoda in the corner ...



















Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/14981836
> 
> 
> no matter how the vote turns out you should be honored to just be published for all your hard work.



No doubt. It's not about winning at all. It was icing on the cake after being in the magazine.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *queendvd2* /forum/post/14985799
> 
> 
> Hey Bud, congrats on the third place finish. I know, not as gratifying as first place, but 100 bucks is still great. Well deserved!



Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akakillroy* /forum/post/14986179
> 
> 
> Ya he can buy what, a couple Blu-Ray's or maybe a replacement butt shaker, sheesh. I think his work deserved better than that. I believe it was rigged ;-)
> 
> 
> Great work!



Thanks. No big deal, really, I think the Pirate Theater was pretty awesome and deserved to win, so I'm glad that worked out.


Bud


----------



## akakillroy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14986261
> 
> 
> Thanks. No big deal, really, I think the Pirate Theater was pretty awesome and deserved to win, so I'm glad that worked out.
> 
> 
> Bud



Obviously they did not go through the posts you made here and see the detail that went into your build. In the end you have a cleaner build and the details you did are a testimate to that. I suppose some go for flashy and what I would consider to be a little more cluttered HT. Yours is clean and well built.


----------



## Wazzey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14986239



Sod did you get dad of the year for that?


----------



## queendvd2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14986239
> 
> 
> So here we go. Room is a sty, but at least I got the banner up. I had to fold ender the ends because it was too long. I think the banner is like 20 feet and the room is 15 wide. Notice the other Yoda in the corner ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Now, that is one cool poster. Sweet!


----------



## HeyNow^

His Dad definitely takes care of him! Anyone notice the similarities with that grin?


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, that is a sweet poster. My son would never sleep, he would be staring at that wall all night.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/14987674
> 
> 
> His Dad definitely takes care of him! Anyone notice the similarities with that grin?



That and the Thrashers game this weekend, it was a non-stop grin.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/14995666
> 
> 
> Bud, that is a sweet poster. My son would never sleep, he would be staring at that wall all night.



Yeah, he's pretty excited about it. Sure is a unique thing to have.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oman, I'll be out of town this weekend, but your marquee is next up on my list.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Had an issue with my basement bathroom pump the other day, it wouldn't kick in. The plumber was just here, has to replace it. Wasn't even two years old. He plans to do it Tuesday morning. I'm hoping its under warranty.


This is why I didn't do the plumbing this time.










Bud


----------



## oman321

Thanks Bud, I appreciate it. Working on the suspended ceiling this weekend hoping to have the space where it's gonna go done except for the floor.


Sorry about your pump problems. I had the pump go on my hot water tank, unfortunately it only had a 1 year warranty on it and I was just past the 2 year mark on it. Hope yours has a longer coverage period. Have a great weekend.


----------



## chinadog

Was told that the pump was under warranty and a new (1 year warrantied) pump is 550.00 plus installation and the better pump (5 year warranty) is 750.00 plus installation. Got to call them today, they're suppose to come out tomorrow. I'd reluctantly thinking about the 5 year pump. Anyone know of these prices are in range?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Turns out that pump has a seven year warranty and costs 750, including the installation.They finally got it installed yesterday after making me wait Tuesday morning for them to arrive and not show until after I had to leave for work. Grrrr.... We're back in business now.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Was pleasantly surprised to find a 100.00 Home Depot gift card from Electronic House in the mail yesterday! Rachel from EH sent me an email the other day to get my address. My wife said she'd use to buy me a Xmas present.










Thanks for all your votes!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/15023385
> 
> 
> Oman, I'll be out of town this weekend, but your marquee is next up on my list.
> 
> 
> Bud



Should be sending you this for review tomorrow.


Bud


----------



## oman321

Groovy, thanks for the time and effort. Glad you got something from the contest, you certainly deserve it.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/14243758
> 
> 
> I'd be interested as well.
> 
> 
> CJ



CJ,


If you're still interested in a marquee, shoot me a PM with what you looking for. I sent Omar his recently and should be able to get to it quickly now. Lemme know.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Oh yeah! Almost forgot ...

*HAPPY NEW YEAR!*


Some of my New Year's resolutions:

Finish my daughter's toy chest.
Upgrade the projector and buy some flat screens.
Figure out my kegarator situation.
Design and build my big marquee.
Get a popcorn machine.
Finish my bar backsplash.
Continue to add decor to basement.
Build a poker table.
Rescue a new German Shepherd Dog (DONE - We lost Gunner - "Bear in the house" - in October).
Buy a cabin in the mountains (CLOSE - Why? To build another theater room, of course!).
Drink more beer!


Bud


----------



## HTanderson

Bud:


Happy New Year! If you can add just one more thing to your New Year's resolutions list...something like give a brother some help figuring out the X10 dimmers and programming I got from Smarthome. I talked to Greg next door and tells me your going to do his home theater area. Just when your over there let me know and swing over and let me know if you would make any changes ar adds before I put up the sheetrock.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTanderson* /forum/post/15438684
> 
> 
> Bud:
> 
> 
> Happy New Year! If you can add just one more thing to your New Year's resolutions list...something like give a brother some help figuring out the X10 dimmers and programming I got from Smarthome. I talked to Greg next door and tells me your going to do his home theater area. Just when your over there let me know and swing over and let me know if you would make any changes ar adds before I put up the sheetrock.



Sean,


Happy to stop by and check on your progress. I'll let you know when we're over at Greg's next. I was over there a few days ago talking with the electrician. He's also planning on coming by on Sunday to check out my theater.


Bud


----------



## oman321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/15438402
> 
> 
> CJ,
> 
> 
> If you're still interested in a marquee, shoot me a PM with what you looking for. I sent Omar his recently and should be able to get to it quickly now. Lemme know.
> 
> 
> Bud



May I add that the sign turned out great. I had Bud make it a little smaller for me (18x45) as the original dimension would have been to big for the wall I'm putting it on. This size is perfect where it's going.


Bud, you mentioned a concern about the darker ink since I did it in blue lettering, but just by holding it up to some lighting it starts to glow nicely. The lights around the lines are also pretty cool, they look like they are lit with the light behind them. As I type this, I'm thinking I may be able to a scrolling light in my design, hmmm...


I just set up my star panel yesterday, hopefully soon I can get to my frame for this. Can't say enough about how nice it turned out, thanks again.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/15439067
> 
> 
> May I add that the sign turned out great. I had Bud make it a little smaller for me (18x45) as the original dimension would have been to big for the wall I'm putting it on. This size is perfect where it's going.
> 
> 
> Bud, you mentioned a concern about the darker ink since I did it in blue lettering, but just by holding it up to some lighting it starts to glow nicely. The lights around the lines are also pretty cool, they look like they are lit with the light behind them. As I type this, I'm thinking I may be able to a scrolling light in my design, hmmm...
> 
> 
> I just set up my star panel yesterday, hopefully soon I can get to my frame for this. Can't say enough about how nice it turned out, thanks again.



Cool. Post some marquee pictures when you can, I'm curious how it's all coming together. I did see you started your star ceiling in your thread ... making some progress!


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Happy New Year Bud! I am so sorry to hear about Gunner. I still remember him guarding the GOM at the door!


We just sent our last analog tube TV to Goodwill this past week. Seven flat panels total in the house now.


We are all missing building vicariously through your projects. Get to it!


All the best to the kids and wife!


----------



## chinadog

Randy, thanks!


Gunner was a great big teddy bear and will be missed. The new guy in the house is "Chief" (named by the previous owner from "Lady and the Tramp") and is 15 months old. Got him via the GSD Rescue here in Atlanta and they got him from a family that had to give him up to move to an apartment. We've had him two weeks and he's been great. A ball of energy and needs a little training, but is already part of the family. He's very big, but very skinny. I expect he'll be a 100 lbs in six months or so.











Looking forward to some more projects, looks like Jason and I have some side work coming up shortly as well.


Bud


----------



## Dseal

Bud, I cant remember, but I thought I read in your tgread where you built speaker boxes out of MDF. I want to do this in wall for my speakers, instead of building columns. Would it be a good idea for my sides and rears with the mdf or ???


----------



## chinadog

Dseal,


Thought about buying them, then had a hard time finding them. I found info to build them, but then just decided to go without them. Pretty happy with the result and sound containment wasn't an issue, so not a big deal in my case. What speakers are you talking about going with?


Bud


----------



## Dseal

I haven't researched them yet, I originally planned on mounting them on the walls. I like the look of my cousins in walls but i am concerned with the sound escaping.


----------



## chinadog

_*Rumors about my death have been greatly exaggerated.*_


Been quiet, so here's a quick update to some of my New Year's resolutions...


1. Close to pulling the trigger on a Panasonic AE3000. In fact, I went ahead and order the new Chief interface bracket for my existing Chief mount. Basically, this the plate that attaches to the projector and then allows me to use the existing Chief mount. It's the meat part of the sandwich. This will give me the low profile mount still and hopefully won't have to monkey with the projector box at all. I tried to think ahead for upgrades when I built it, but what might get me is the thickness of the projector. Will probably order the projector next week.


2. Closing on my cabin on March 2. Will post some pictures of the place later, but there are a few options for a home theater there, at least of some sort. I'll have a shiney new (well... a new lamp at least) AE900 to use there, so I may be to come up with some sort of solution. I don't have a good room in the basement there, two weird rooms to work with. More later.


Bud


----------



## larryep

Bud


I have also been keeping an eye on that projector since the news of it.let us know how much better it is over the ae900.


Larry


----------



## jerrodshook

Long time no chat Bud..... I'm on the prelim hunt for something to replace my 900 as well. Seems like there are a ton of good choices in the $2500-3500 range. Gotta figure out how to convince the wife about this one.....


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/15847778
> 
> 
> Bud
> 
> 
> I have also been keeping an eye on that projector since the news of it.let us know how much better it is over the ae900.
> 
> 
> Larry



Absolutely. See you got your camera working!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerrodshook* /forum/post/15848452
> 
> 
> Long time no chat Bud..... I'm on the prelim hunt for something to replace my 900 as well. Seems like there are a ton of good choices in the $2500-3500 range. Gotta figure out how to convince the wife about this one.....



Jerrod,


Just think, just two years ago or so, the AE900 was 2K! I always went with, "I can sell the other (projector"" to reduce the costs. Besides, you must be racking up the lamp hours. Why put another 300.00 into a new lamp?










Bud


----------



## larryep

Yes some of the better pics are from my girlfriends camara.

lookin foward to the review!


----------



## mn_hokie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryep* /forum/post/15851689
> 
> 
> Yes some of the better pics are from my girlfriends camara.
> 
> lookin foward to the review!



Ok, this just sounded bad







lol.


----------



## larryep

Wooops!


----------



## chinadog

Ordered my AE3000 today, should be here Tuesday ....










Bud


----------



## oman321

I'm jealous, I would love a 3000. Will be a great addition to your theater. Do you plan to repurpose the 900?


----------



## BritInVA

Bud,


Are you going to be changing your screen to take advantage of the 3000's aspect feature?


Ditto on Jealous - new PJ is not in my immediate future but the money I've been spending on my cat lately is getting close to the price of a new PJ










Cheers,

Mark


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/16039475
> 
> 
> I'm jealous, I would love a 3000. Will be a great addition to your theater. Do you plan to repurpose the 900?



May try and put in in the cabin (closed a on 3/2) in the basement since I have an extra lamp for it. We'll see.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/16040283
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Are you going to be changing your screen to take advantage of the 3000's aspect feature?
> 
> 
> Ditto on Jealous - new PJ is not in my immediate future but the money I've been spending on my cat lately is getting close to the price of a new PJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark



Chewing on the idea, I don't have much more width, so I'll think through that. Maybe I'll got ATS as well. Want to see what this thing will do.


Sorry about the cat, been there before with other animals.


Bud


----------



## larryep

congradulations on the new purchase. Can't wait for your review.reading the good reviews on the ae3000, I think you are on the verge of a great upgrade in video quality.


Larry


----------



## chinadog

Should be here tomorrow, hopefully I can get it hung tomorrow night.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Just went back and reminded myself of the design and construction of your front wall. With that projector you really owe it to yourself to rebuild your front end and put a 2.35:1 Pfeiffer sheerweave 4500 screen. (less than $200).


A little framing and putting up some new fabric, then a DIY screen frame, stretch and staple the screen fabric. Something *you* could do in two weekends easy.


----------



## chinadog

Big,


I am definitely considering it. Wanted to see what this puppy will do. The Pfeiffer sheerweave, isn't that the original SMX material? I could then repurpose the AE900 AND the Carada.... hmmmm......


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Basically yes. RE: Shearweave.


I looked at your wall and thought you might not gain much width but may lose a little height. Then again the screen might be a bit closer to the eyes, so the immersive effect could be improved especially for scope material. Plus the audio benefits.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/16055614
> 
> 
> Basically yes. RE: Shearweave.
> 
> 
> I looked at your wall and thought you might not gain much width but may lose a little height. Then again the screen might be a bit closer to the eyes, so the immersive effect could be improved especially for scope material. Plus the audio benefits.



You're right, probably wouldn't gain any width at all. I have to do the math and the dimensions.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Projector has arrived and is waiting patiently for daddy to return home and fire it up.










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

You, my friend, are going to experience the LONGEST afternoon imaginable.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

My understanding is that the Sheer weave is what Ruben started with until he had them do something in a custom weave. It is also the fabric that Seymour AV was using although they now have something new. Here is a place you can but it by the yard.

http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsam...=113044&t=2182 


DC I don't understand the comment that Bud will not be gaining much because I assume He dismantles and rebuilds the screen wall with the screen extending into the area now reserved for the speakers.


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/16061556
> 
> 
> DC I don't understand the comment that Bud will not be gaining much because I assume He dismantles and rebuilds the screen wall with the screen extending into the area now reserved for the speakers.



I thought he might have to give up some image height to gain scope width.


He has a 100" Diag, which is 87 x 49 viewable. His room is 11.5 feet wide. Trim and boarders will take up at least 6", so say 132 inches is his new width. 132 / 2.35 = 56" (156" diag), so my first impression was wrong. If he stays at 49" of height, he could go as much as 115" wide or about 125" on the diag.


I see an upgrade coming.


----------



## chinadog

Randy, you have no idea. Plan is to


1. Leave here (work) about 5:30.

2. Arrive home by 6:30.

3. Eat before 7:00.

4. Kids to bed by 8:30.

5. Hang the projector by 9:00.

6. Check operation, options, etc.

7. Maybe get a movie in by 9:30.

8. Get some Zzzs about 11:30

9. Begin my conference call at 2:00 AM (don't ask).


Bud


----------



## GPowers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16064257
> 
> 
> Randy, you have no idea. Plan is to
> 
> 
> 1. Leave here (work) about 5:30.
> 
> 2. Arrive home by 6:30.
> 
> 3. Eat before 7:00.
> 
> 4. Kids to bed by 8:30.
> 
> 5. Hang the projector by 9:00.
> 
> 6. Check operation, options, etc.
> 
> 7. Maybe get a movie in by 9:30.
> 
> 8. Get some Zzzs about 11:30
> 
> 9. Begin my conference call at 2:00 AM (don't ask).
> 
> 
> Bud



Well it is 2:30 on the west coast so Bud should be leaving for home. Still has four more hours until blast off..........


----------



## BritInVA

Dinner time ...... wonder what he had


----------



## chinadog

Pastrami! After all, it is St. Patrick's day!


Everything done according to schedule and I'm even a few minutes early. Projector went up quick, I had to put on the new plate for the Chief mount and move the mount to the original position (centered). I went ahead and and fired her up and got it all setup, popped in "Hitman" and just got finished. Projector has an excellent picture, is easy to setup and is extremely quiet. It's a keeper!


I did not mess too much with the menu options, nor did I do anything with the settings for a scope movie. I did enough to get a picture on the screen on let her rip. More info to come as I get more time with it. Right now I have to get a few hours of sleep before the call (now at 3:00 AM).


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

If you re-do the screenwall - this DIY masking thread is pretty interesting:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=941076


----------



## chinadog

Oh man, thanks for the link. Looks complicated! Might be a summer project when my father-in-law is here to help.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I am not sure I'd have the skills for the motorized part, but the manual design is clever too.


----------



## miltimj

The design they did is what I've kind of pictured in my head that I would do some day. Nice that they got a jump start on it.







Even the "lower priced" systems like Carada's Masquerade has me wanting to DIY.


----------



## chinadog

Loving this projector.


I had some additional work to do to get where I am with the projector. First, I hung the projector in a mad rush to get it going and to ensure there were no issues with it. Unfortunately, I had to move the mount (AE900 lens was off center) and I did it n a rush, did not measure center, did not level it.


Sunday I took 1/2 hour out of the busy weekend and recentered the projector and leveled it. My other challenge was my projector box. Although it was wide enough, it was slightly too small height wise. After hanging the projector, I could not shut the box since it banged into the back on the projector on the drawer slides. I did, however, have enough room if I moved the slides higher in the box, causing the box to drop down some. I was able to take care of that as well and the projector box works just perfect with the new projector.


I read the manual and watched some movies when I had a chance. Black levels are great. Was watching this Comcast HD music channel (Paladia) and they have this HD eye catching clip with a bunch of crows flying around and it really shows off the black levels and the contrast.


I am still running 1080i, even with BD. The reason is the receiver (Yamaha 2600) does not handle 1080p. I thought it may just passthrough the signal, but no dice. I'll probably run a second HDMI cable (conduit) direct from the Sony BD player to another HDMI port on the projector (it has three) and I'll run optical or digital audio from the player to the receiver until I can justify a new receiver.


Have not messed with the 2:35:1 yet, nor the memorized settings. Probably this weekend. Love the link to Scott's masking system. Very interested in doing something similar this summer.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Yeah - I thought about a new receiver being in your future about a week ago. But you posting at 3 am implied that you were pretty swamped and might not be the time for the usual banter.


Glad to hear the black levels are improved - I know LCD is reported to have come a long way in the last couple years. It will be an LCD vs LCOS debate for me when I am ready to buy.


----------



## miltimj

I was thinking the same thing for my setup (new receiver), but realized it was basically due to wanting HDMI output / switching / upconversion. Then I saw the DVDO Edge video processor for about $600 that does all of the very elegantly, and separates my audio component from doing video (which it won't do nearly as well as the Edge, unless I spend more than the Edge is worth to get one that does).


So all that to say.. I'm extremely happy with the Edge and it's solved my video upconversion / processing needs. If you're happy with your receiver audio-wise, that may be a good option for you as well, Bud.


By the way, they must call "cabins" something different down there..


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/16121023
> 
> 
> Yeah - I thought about a new receiver being in your future about a week ago. But you posting at 3 am implied that you were pretty swamped and might not be the time for the usual banter.
> 
> 
> Glad to hear the black levels are improved - I know LCD is reported to have come a long way in the last couple years. It will be an LCD vs LCOS debate for me when I am ready to buy.



I had some early morning deploys in the last week and some outages that required some babysitting over the past few weekends. No fun. Need some weekend "Bud" time and not sure the next couple of weekends are available either.










Bud


----------



## ScruffyHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/14823217
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. Scruffy, where's your construction thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Well I finally got around to it









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1132169 



moving slow as molasses though


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miltimj* /forum/post/16121852
> 
> 
> I was thinking the same thing for my setup (new receiver), but realized it was basically due to wanting HDMI output / switching / upconversion. Then I saw the DVDO Edge video processor for about $600 that does all of the very elegantly, and separates my audio component from doing video (which it won't do nearly as well as the Edge, unless I spend more than the Edge is worth to get one that does).
> 
> 
> So all that to say.. I'm extremely happy with the Edge and it's solved my video upconversion / processing needs. If you're happy with your receiver audio-wise, that may be a good option for you as well, Bud.
> 
> 
> By the way, they must call "cabins" something different down there..



Tim,


I think if I had to spent 600.00 on a scaler, I might as well put a few hundred more into it and upgrade the receiver. I am actually pretty happy with the 720p from comcast and don't bother to scale that. The BD player upscales as well, so adding a 35.00 monoprice cable for me to bypass the receiver sounds like my best option. I can live with the audio options for a while, my ears are no what they used to be (neither is my sight, hairline and waistline for that matter







).


If you're referring to a "cabin" in MN as no more than a wooden tent, well, there are a bunch of them down here too. Not sure I could talk the family into one of those though. This was more of an investment in a vacation rental property (with fringe benefits) then a test of my manhood roughing it out in the sticks and wakin' up with bug bites.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScruffyHT* /forum/post/16124535
> 
> 
> Well I finally got around to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1132169
> 
> 
> 
> moving slow as molasses though



Good deal, slow is still progress! I wish I had known you were going Carada, could have saved you a few bucks there... oh well. I'll check out your thread in detail and keep a watchful eye on things.... as will a bunch of others, I suspect.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tim, here is an older shot of the cabin and a panoramic view from the back deck taken one morning and put together with autostitch.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Bud,


Been a while. Enjoyed catching up on your thread - you're a busy person! I need to bring over some Sam Smith's Winter Welcome and check out your updated setup.


Just started on my own basement. Took out a few walls and headers last weekend. I've got grand plans!


Ben


----------



## chinadog

BEN!


Has been a while. Hope you're doing well. Glad you finally moved forward with the basement. Where are you in the process?


You're right, been pretty busy (too busy) and I have not had a Sam Smith's in some time either.


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16124648
> 
> 
> Tim, here is an older shot of the cabin and a panoramic view from the back deck taken one morning and put together with autostitch.
> 
> 
> Bud



Wow... NICE! So who needs a projection screen when you have a few big windows and plenty of "source material"!


----------



## hanesian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16124648
> 
> 
> Tim, here is an older shot of the cabin and a panoramic view from the back deck taken one morning and put together with autostitch.
> 
> 
> Bud



Holy panorama vista, batman! That is an amazing place, with incredible views! Approximately where does one find views like that?!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks, we love it up there. It's about 10 mins from a small old town called Blue Ridge, GA . There are lost of restaurants and antique shops. There is also a train called The Blue Ridge Scenic Railway that is a four hour round trip train ride up into TN that is real popular with the tourists.


Blue Ridge is about an hour and a quarter from the house. Very close to the TN and NC line. If you're into the outdoors, it's close to where the Appalachian trail starts, right down the road from Lake Blue Ridge and not far from the Toccoa River if you're into fly fishing. It's popular in the fall due to the fall foliage and was ranked in the top 5 spots for fall colors by CNNMoney (the authority on those things







).


Here is another I did later that same day in the afternoon:










This is the same place we rented the last two Octobers. I found out it was for sale and jumped on it. Same place that has the drive in movie I posted about a while back. It's called the Swan Drive-in . The kids love it.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud,


I'm up at Lake Blue Ridge all the time in the summer. My parents have a place in Mineral Bluff and keep their pontoon boat on the lake. I also have a 23' runabout we take up there. We park the pontoon boat and crank up the grill while taking the kids out skiing.


We will have to plan a day on the lake. If you ever want to cruise the lake I have keys to the pontoon boat at the dock (and my parents care less if my friends use it).


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Ben,


Technically we're in Cherry Log. Pretty funny. May take you up on that!


Bud


----------



## Johnsteph10

I just wanted to chime in an say that I have learned quite a lot from your thread, Bud. I'm also building an HT that will hopefully be killer.


Maybe we should have an Atlanta/Middle GA HT meet sometime? There seems to be a few of us around....


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16136602
> 
> 
> I just wanted to chime in an say that I have learned quite a lot from your thread, Bud. I'm also building an HT that will hopefully be killer.
> 
> 
> Maybe we should have an Atlanta/Middle GA HT meet sometime? There seems to be a few of us around....




Hey John, thanks. Been chewing on that for for a while, if I can find a good weekend, I wouldn't mind hosting one Saturday afternoon.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Messed with the AE3000 memory settings and the 2:35 setup yesterday. Works well. Basically I setup a 16:9 setting and a 2:35:1 setting. You can actually have three settings. At a push of a button it'll zoom, adjust the vertical settings and focus. I popped in Pearl Harbor yesterday to see what it would look like if I went with a 2:35 setup and used it for the settings. At about the same picture height, the width overshoot the sides about a foot (just a guess) on both sides of the screen. The black bars still exist, but are basically are above and below the screen and get sucked up by the black GOM, Image is still bright (and I'm running in economy mode on the lamp), but hard to tell (on the black) if it dims on the very outside of picture. The other good thing is that the hole for the projector box doesn't need to be enlarged. Seems to be fine.


BUd


----------



## BIGmouthinDC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16147892
> 
> 
> but hard to tell (on the black) if it dims on the very outside of picture.



Some evidence that it doesn't

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post15071709 


I've seen the image in person and saw no evidence of edge dimness using the poor mans CIH.


----------



## chinadog

Big,


Thanks. Looks like I've got some homework to do now, want to read thoroughly through Scott's thread on his masking system (thanks for posting Dave) and start planning my conversion from 16:9 to 2:35.1.


Bud


----------



## swithey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/11840513
> 
> 
> Today was "Father and son paint the shed day". It was somewhat fun. It's been back burnered for some time. Got the roof shingles on too. Now I need to get the shelves and the door hardware on it. That'll take another two weeks at least....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No comments on the mustard color, not sure what the heck I was thinking. It's just too bright for a shed.



Hey Bud,


I have the shed on the list for this summer. Mine with be 2-2.5' deep x 8' wide. I planned on a few wide doors so I can access everything from the front. I was wondering if you spent much time sealing the perimeter of the door to keep the rain out since it is under a covered area, you did waste your time with it. Mine will be by the side of house without any covering - so water proofing is important. Also, did you use normal door hinges?


I plan to skin mine with 6" wide board on board cedar planks -- kind of like a fence. Then, I can stain it to match my fence. I will probably put OSB under the planks to keep it more water tight.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swithey* /forum/post/16173747
> 
> 
> Hey Bud,
> 
> 
> I have the shed on the list for this summer. Mine with be 2-2.5' deep x 8' wide. I planned on a few wide doors so I can access everything from the front. I was wondering if you spent much time sealing the perimeter of the door to keep the rain out since it is under a covered area, you did waste your time with it. Mine will be by the side of house without any covering - so water proofing is important. Also, did you use normal door hinges?
> 
> 
> I plan to skin mine with 6" wide board on board cedar planks -- kind of like a fence. Then, I can stain it to match my fence. I will probably put OSB under the planks to keep it more water tight.



Steve,


Did not do anything special around the perimeter of the door. I did caulk around all the joints, including the corners where the corner boards meet. I used those black decorative gate hinges you get at Home Depot.


Seems like our work is never done ....


Bud


----------



## miltimj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16180538
> 
> 
> Seems like our work is never done ....



That's okay - a sense of accomplishment never gets old.


----------



## ejhuzy

Hey Bud,


I saw a post of yours in a poster frames thread. I know you used FrameUSA, but I noticed you used 27x40 frames. I thought most of the posters were 27x41? Why'd you go with the 40"?


----------



## chinadog

Hey Ed,


I think the ones I was looking at buying at the time were 40" so that was the main reason. No particular reason beyond that.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Hey Bud,


Hope summer is going great for you. I'm in the research phase for doing a ticket window like yours (just like yours







). I pretty good on most of it, but I was wondering about the plexi. Did you use the fluted trim and plinth blocks to "sandwich" the plexi in place?


And I think I've asked this before, but search failed to find it. Where'd you source the plexi? And how thick is it?


BTW, I ended up ordering frames from FramesUSA and they worked out great. Thanks.


----------



## BritInVA

Not sure how Bud did his but I used 1/4" quarter round to secure mine.


Front











Back











We both got our Plexi via Jason (jikjack) who's brother is in the glass industry.


Nice bump for Bud - what are you up too? I'm still trying to get another trip to Atlanta to catch up with you & Jason.


----------



## HeyNow^

Yeah Mister-Disappear-Man....


----------



## eteller

Bud,

I just read you're entire thread and it makes me sad, because my theater now looks pathetic compare to your's! You gave me some ideas though!



Ed


----------



## ejhuzy

Brit,


Thanks for the idea. Bud, I'd still like to hear your solution too.


----------



## chinadog

Sorry guys, enjoying some time off and doing some work up at the cabin.


Ed, you're correct, I used the fluted trim to hold the plexi in place. Mark is correct, we sourced the plexi through Jason's bor-in-law. I do have one extra pre-made window made in my office at home. Not sure of the exact dimensions though. If interested, I could sell you that one. Jason had a few extra made for folks who might need them and used my basic measurements.


Mark, lets us know when you're in town! Looking forward to catching up.


Other Ed (







) glad you found the thread helpful. Hopefully it didn't take too long!


Randy, I'm just a lurker now....


Have a Happy and a Safe 4th to all!


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16771393
> 
> 
> Ed, you're correct, I used the fluted trim to hold the plexi in place. Mark is correct, we sourced the plexi through Jason's bor-in-law. I do have one extra pre-made window made in my office at home. Not sure of the exact dimensions though. If interested, I could sell you that one. Jason had a few extra made for folks who might need them and used my basic measurements.



PM sent.


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/16771393
> 
> 
> Ed, you're correct, I used the fluted trim to hold the plexi in place.



Bud,


Sorry to be so thick, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how you made those vertical supports for the ticket window. They appear to be made up of three pieces of stock. But somehow you allowed for a small (1/8"?) groove for the plexi to sit in when the fluted piece of trim was put on top. Without the groove, the plexi would have to be the entire width of the supports, which it's not.


How'd you make the groove? Did you route it? Is the flat front nailed to the sides? Or are the sides nailed to the side of the flat front?

















It seems like the front is nailed to the two "sides", but it's not that easy. I can think of a few ways to do it, but was wondering what you did.


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


I didn't route it. If I did anything, I either off set the support back a bit or put it on the table saw and just grooved it that way. I just sort of "wung" it as a built it. The front is probably glued and has a few brads to hold it in place, but I believe I built a "U" shapped frame from the pieces and then secured it from the top and bottom pieces, which you can image from this picture. The groove would also go up behind the front top piece (where the letters are), but the plexi does not go up that fare behind it.











Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


Thanks for the info. I kind of figured the sides were "U" built. I don't have a table saw handy, so I think I'll just route off a groove. Should be fairly straight forward


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


I've been studying your ticket window pictures trying the glean as much info as I can. I curious about the dimensions of some of the lumber you used. Could you confirm my guesses for me please?







It would make this project go easier for a beginner like myself.


Bottom base (part under the bottom shelf) - 1" x 4" ?

Bottom shelf - 2 pieces glued together. one 1" x 4" and one 1" x 6" routed down.

Top shelf - 1" x 8" routed?

Column U's - two 1" x 3" for sides with a 1" x 4" front?

Tickets base - 1" x 8"?


Sorry for all the questions, but yours came out so great I just really like the design and dimensions.


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


I took a bunch of new pictures using a measuring tape. These should help. Some of the wood was lying around, already cut and I just used what I gad. I just "wung" how to construct it. See if these make sense and let me know if I missed anything.

Ticket window measurements and with photos link 


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Bud,


That's more than I could have hoped for. As always, thanks for the help. I think I'm ready to start, I just need to find the right trim (the horizontal accents). In my HT room I used trim like that, but it's oak. I got it at HD, but they don't seem to have it in pine (in my area at least).


I'm glad you took a picture of the letters, my guess was 4".


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Cool, glad that helped. Let me know if you need anything else.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


What can you tell us about your new Panny projector? Worth the upgrade for you? I about ready to upgrade.


----------



## chinadog

Randy,


I love the AE3000 and definitely worth the upgrade! Black levels are great, picture is sharp (even with smooth screen technology). Even though I have not been able to do the cinemascope screen yet, I think the poor man's cinemascope using the zoom feature will be great once I time to do it. It's nice to have the preset zoom settings that automatically take place with the push of a button. The price was right, too for 1080p. I would expect to hear something soon about the next version (AE4000?) if they haven't announced it already. I'm sure the price of the AE3000 will be dropping as well. Only thing so far that I think they could have done better is that the AE3000 has a 2K hr lamp and not 3K. Not a huge deal.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Actually the price of the 3000 has increased for some reason! I may upgrade from my Panny 100 this fall.


----------



## CJO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17023750
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> 
> I love the AE3000 and definitely worth the upgrade! Black levels are great, picture is sharp (even with smooth screen technology). Even though I have not been able to do the cinemascope screen yet, I think the poor man's cinemascope using the zoom feature will be great once I time to do it. It's nice to have the preset zoom settings that automatically take place with the push of a button. The price was right, too for 1080p. I would expect to hear something soon about the next version (AE4000?) if they haven't announced it already. I'm sure the price of the AE3000 will be dropping as well. Only thing so far that I think they could have done better is that the AE3000 has a 2K hr lamp and not 3K. Not a huge deal.
> 
> 
> Bud



I'm using the zooming method with an AE3000 and I think it looks fantastic!


CJ


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/17025124
> 
> 
> Actually the price of the 3000 has increased for some reason! I may upgrade from my Panny 100 this fall.



Huh. Just checked PP and sure enough, looks like it went up some. Weird.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17016494
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> 
> I took a bunch of new pictures using a measuring tape. These should help. Some of the wood was lying around, already cut and I just used what I gad. I just "wung" how to construct it. See if these make sense and let me know if I missed anything.
> 
> Ticket window measurements and with photos link
> 
> 
> Bud



Ed,


I regrouped those pictures so the ticket window shots including the new ones were together. The link about drills you to page three, now they're all on page one: http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...et_window_and/ 


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy

Thanks for the heads up Bud. I'm still trying to source trim for around the base and header. Hope to start this weekend.


I did notice one thing about the plexi. I'm going to modify the piece you sent to be more similar to the piece you used. Do to that though is going to cause the round hole to be slightly off center vertically. Hopefully it'll look alright.


Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Chiahead

I think the hole off center vertically is fine, it is horizontally that would make it look odd.


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, I agree with Michael. How much are you going to cut off? I hate cutting that stuff.


Bud


----------



## kjlewie

Bud,


I think your build and thread are among the best on AVS - first rate. Very inspirational and educational. Your documentation answered a lot of questions I didn't even know I had until I read the thread. I know I'm a bit late to the party since your build has moved on to the "upgrade" phase for some time now but, nice job, nonetheless.


Thanks.


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17058981
> 
> 
> Yeah, I agree with Michael. How much are you going to cut off? I hate cutting that stuff.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud, I'm not looking forward to it either.







I just think the plexi is too tall. My plan is to cut off the bottom just above the ticket hole. Then I'll cut a new ticket hole. We'll see how it goes. If I screw it up, I'll be in the market for another piece of plastic.


I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## oman321

Ej, why not just cut the top? Would that put the top hole to high?


----------



## Chiahead

or leave the hole where it is and cut an equal amount from the top and bottom.


Just clamp on a straight edge and score it a bunch with a razor. Should snap pretty easily then, straigts are allot easier than circles.


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/17059600
> 
> 
> Ej, why not just cut the top? Would that put the top hole to high?



Yeah, it would. Right now the hole is about 10.5" on center from the top of the plexi (which btw this stuff is not plexi, it's much more sturdy). The hole is about 28" on center from the bottom. So, that's where the slack is.


The brown protective paper on the plexi says this stuff can be tooled. I don't think I can just score it and snap it.


BTW, Bud kept telling me he just used mostly scrap he had laying around to build his window. Well, I looked and I have about 80% of the materials I need to make the window in red oak I have left over from making the bar. I only need to buy one fluted piece and a little stock. Looks like I'm going that way now too. Thanks again Bud for that idea.


----------



## oman321

Not sure but I think a table saw would probably be the way to go depending on how thick it is. If not I would one of those tools that you use to score laminate. Repeatedly scoring until you get all the way thru. You can find the tool in the laminate section of Home Depot or Lowes. At first site you think that it is to blunt to work but it does.


Something like this http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26um%3D1


----------



## Sands_at_Pier147

EJ,


At one point, you said you were going to rout a groove, so I imagine you have access to a router (unless it was just figure of speech).


If the plexi can be tooled, as the wrapper says, maybe you can rough cut with a laminate blade in a circular saw, and then clean up the edge with a trim bit or a straight bit in the router, using a straightedge as a guide across the piece.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjlewie* /forum/post/17059183
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I think your build and thread are among the best on AVS - first rate. Very inspirational and educational. Your documentation answered a lot of questions I didn't even know I had until I read the thread. I know I'm a bit late to the party since your build has moved on to the "upgrade" phase for some time now but, nice job, nonetheless.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Well thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. Again, my way to give back and never expected it to grow as it did. Appreciate the kinds words!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


I'm at a loss to help you. I tried scoring, jigsaw and a table saw, but none worked for me, so good luck, whatever you do! Sure you can't build around it? Maybe leave a groove in the top for it to slip into, hence hiding it so you don't have to see the extra?


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17062900
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> I'm at a loss to help you. I trying scoring, jigsaw and a table saw, but none worked for me, so good luck, whatever you do! Sure you can't build around it? Maybe leave a groove in the top for it to slip into, hence hiding it so you don't have to see the extra?



Bud, that's a bummer. If you had trouble, then I'm really in trouble. If there's one thing doing all this work in the HT taught me is just give it a shot. If I screw it up, I'll just start over. No worries.


All the extra in at the bottom, not the top. I'm trying to keep the circle in the middle. I thought I could cut off the bottom just above the ticket hole. Then add another "U" shaped hole. I have a router, so maybe that's way to go.


I didn't think this would carry on so much, maybe I should move this topic to my thread. Good news is that *waaaayyy* more people see this thread than mine.


----------



## haaswood

Hey Bud --


Seems like I've been following this thread for YEARS. Oh wait, it has been!


Not related to your HT (unless you just happen to be having the long awaited open house that weekend) though yours truly was an inspiration that made me finish mine in the basement. I am flying to ATL on 9/18 though I am very disappointed -- I just realized, after booking the flight, there is a CEDIA/AVS Party only a week before. I should have come in and stayed for the week killing two birds with one stone.


Regardless, flying in on Friday and driving to Carnesville? for a non-HT related event Friday night and Saturday. Then have Saturday night and Sunday until 6PM with no plans. Have been to Atlanta once before and visited (hmmm, I forget all) Stone Mtn, CNN tour/Olympic Park, oh yeah and the supersized What'll Ya Have food joint near GA Tech and remember a great meal at Fogo de Chao in Buckhead. So excluding those, any recommendations for basically 24 hours??? Will probably grab a Hyatt Place near the airport somewhere that night, since I have too many points but they are all around ATL I see.


----------



## chinadog

haaswood -


You're talking about the Varsity (What'll ya have?) in Atlanta. Cool place.


Maybe someone can help out here besides me. I tend to drive into downtown and drive out, not going to many restaurants, except for those close to CNN Center ( Dantana's , Taco Mac and Ted's Montana Grill -which I love BTW, but its a chain and they're all over Atlanta - same for Taco Mac.). There are a lot of places in Buckhead, which is in midtown Atlanta, like Chops and the Atlanta Fish Market . In fact, any of the restaurants in the Buckhead Life Restaurants Group are popular and expensive, but probably worth going to.


Any one else?


Bud


----------



## haaswood

Yes -- The Varsity. Very cool place. I've been to a Ted's while doing a project at Zona Rosa in Kansas City. I loved it as well. Wish we had one in WI. It is a chain but doesn't feel like it.


Aside from food, any one day things to see -- keep in mind I don't have to be in ATL proper, I don't mind driving... not the standard tourist fare.


I am tempted to visit some of that beautiful country your cabin pics showed but that will have to be a trip in and of itself. Lovely place.


Sorry to steer your thread off track a bit but there is no better place to come for advice than Bud's.


Hands down, beats Dear Abby.











Edit: Just look at the quality of service, hotlinks and all!!


----------



## chinadog

haas -


What about the new GA Aquarium ? If you go there, it's right next to the new World of Coke . There is also a National Museum of Patriotism right there. You can hit all three in one pop. Lots of other museums as well if you're interested in that sort of thing. High Museum of Art or Fernbank Museum of Natural History . Then there are Braves and Falcons games!

Blue Ridge, GA (where our cabin is) is about an hour and a half from downtown Atlanta. You can do a day trip. Lots of stuff to do up there.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hit CEDIA today during lunch and planning on heading back tomorrow. Met Ruben as well. Heading over to Shout for the AVS party with Jason in just a little bit!


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17163198
> 
> 
> Hit CEDIA today during lunch and planning on heading back tomorrow. Met Ruben as well. Heading over to Shout for the AVS party with Jason in just a little bit!



Bud,


Have fun at CEDIA, I'm jealous.


Btw, my copy of your ticket window is coming along nicely. I'm about to order letters and I'm trying to decide between between 1/8" and 1/4" thickness. Do you remember what you used?


Ed


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Where are the pictures?










Pretty sure I got 1/4", but will take a measurement for you. I don't remember where I got them online and I don't have the email confirmation since my PC crashed earlier in the year and I lost all my outlook archives. I think the thicker ones will give it a more retro look too.


Met some great people last night at the AVS party, including David Bott. Spent some time talking to Ruben as well. Dave (from Roswell), thanks for the beer!


Heading back to CEDIA today with Jason for a couple of hours. Tonight Warrenp is coming by to do some video work for his Home Theater Revealed DVD series. He was at Jason's on Wed as well.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17165541
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> 
> Where are the pictures?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure I got 1/4", but will take a measurement for you. I don't remember where I got them online and I don't have the email confirmation since my PC crashed earlier in the year and I lost all my outlook archives. I think the thicker ones will give it a more retro look too.
> 
> 
> Bud



Bud,


Pictures are on there way. I'm putting my first coat of poly on tonight.


Thanks for looking at the letters. I was all set to order 1/4" and starting thinking about it (I always to that). Looked at your photo album and didn't think the letters look 1/4" thick. If you could verify, that'd be great.


I found a few on-line stores that sell the letters. All similarly priced, but one site had the option of buying a install template. That's the site I'm going to use. I'll be updating my thread with all that info soon.


Ed


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Letters are indeed a 1/4" thick. Just measured them.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17201613
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> 
> Letters are indeed a 1/4" thick. Just measured them.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud. I just ordered my letters. 2-3 weeks for delivery? Reminds me of when I was a kid and everything you ordered off TV ads was 6-8 weeks for delivery. My kids go crazy when it takes a week to get something that was ordered on line.


Ed


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/8060738
> 
> 
> Here's the stained ticket window. I mad a French cleat out of a 2x4. I cut it at a 30 degree angle. I secured one side in the ticket window with screws. The other side I put on the wall with 2 anchors and a screw in a stud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can take it down pretty easily obviously using this method. Once I get the glass, curtains and lettering figured out, then I may also put an "L" bracket behind the apron so it doesn't accidently get lifted up and off.



Bud,


I'm at the hanging stage and couldn't do it without asking some questions.










A french cleat usually has two sides, one on the wall and one on the object being hung up. I don't think you went this route, right? I'm guessing your window is just hanging by the cross bars that hold your columns together. If so, I like your approach as the window sits right against the wall then.


It makes me feel better that you only hit one stud with your cleat. Me too. BTW, my window is coming in at a heafty 40lbs.


----------



## chinadog

Ed,


Hanging and no pictures of it?










I used two sides. I just ripped a 2x4 and then mounted the other piece on the back side of the window, likely between the two upright sections as you predicted. Can get a picture if it helps.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Serious flooding here in Atlanta over the weekend and today. Lots of roads and homes flooded. A few people drowned when their cars go swept away.


Hopefully the area basement theaters stay dry, too.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17220655
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> 
> Hanging and no pictures of it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two sides. I just ripped a 2x4 and then mounted the other piece on the back side of the window, likely between the two upright sections as you predicted. Can get a picture if it helps.
> 
> 
> Bud



I'm sorry to say, I'd like to see that.







I don't see how you'd mount the half to the window. The dimensions don't work out, at least not in my case.


I tell you what, I'll post some pictures of my progress so you know I'm not just making you work.










I'm off to buy some gold spray paint now. Pictures later.


----------



## chinadog

Something to grip onto and pull it tight to the wall, I guess, otherwise it might just get knocked off. Wouldn't want that to happen. Hard to capture the angle, but you can tell one the last shot with my fat fingers.



























Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17220890
> 
> 
> Something to grip onto and pull it tight to the wall, I guess, otherwise it might just get knocked off. Wouldn't want that to happen. Hard to capture the angle, but you can tell one the last shot with my fat fingers.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Ed removed pictures for readability



Well, that's what I figured you did. Makes sense, I wasn't sure how to attach the window side cleat to the window. Looks like you screwed it to the top shelf portion.


It's definitely the best way to go. The cleat is strong and pulls it to the wall. I think I know how to proceed now. Thanks (yet again).


BTW - As promised I'm updating my thread with status pictures.


----------



## ejhuzy

Ok, question number 10,000 on the ticket window. I got my speaker thingie today.


Which way did you face yours? Looking at your pictures it seems like it's installed on the outside of the plexi, with the indented portion facing into the window. Sound right?


If so, does yours fit flush with the plexi or do you have a slight raised edge?


----------



## chinadog

Thats right. Its on the outside and has a slight raised edge. Use clear silicon to install.


Bud


----------



## ejhuzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17227468
> 
> 
> Thats right. Its on the outside and has a slight raised edge. Use clear silicon to install.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud. That's what I figured, but just checking. Looking at it myself, I like it better that way too. That puts the shinier side in, which is better IMO.


Ed


----------



## HeyNow^

Hope you are staying dry down there Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Yeah, we've been fortunate, but a lot of people have not. I think they're up to 10 deaths and 250M in property damage already.


Bud


----------



## smakovits

Bud, I was just curious, I am trying to measure my screen height and have some calculations of my own in place, but I wanted to ask for some of your numbers, screen height from floor to bottom of screen, image height and lastly eye height. I can use your numbers just to compare to mine and do the calculations myself. thanks.


----------



## chinadog

smakovits,


Think I had them somewhere in here, but I can't even find them. When you say image height, are you talking about center of the screen, bottom of the screen or something else?


Bud


----------



## smakovits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17233975
> 
> 
> smakovits,
> 
> 
> Think I had them somewhere in here, but I can't even find them. When you say image height, are you talking about center of the screen, bottom of the screen or something else?
> 
> 
> Bud



Ah, it doesnt matter now. Essentially I was over thinking my screen height measurements. After realizing I was limited as to how low I can go because of outlet covers and such, I just worked with what I had. I said I must be above the cover plates, so this is a low at it will be, even if the math tells me I should be 2" lower...thanks though.


----------



## luketo

This room looks like a blast to be in.


----------



## luketo

Good Job!


----------



## Terry H.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/8366700
> 
> 
> So here is an update on the ticket window. Finally got some gold metallic paint from HD last weekend and sprayed the letters. The letters are actually made from pine, wasn't sure if I was going to stain them or not. Happy with the gold paint. I just glued the letters on this AM and took a few shots. Jason will be by on Friday with the plexiglass for the front and I have all the stuff I need for the red velvet curtain, maybe my wife can find some time this weekend to put that together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud




Bud,


Where did you get the plexiglass for your ticket window? Did you order it from the same place as the difusers for the movie posters?


thanks,


Terry


----------



## Terry H.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terry H.* /forum/post/17487908
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> Where did you get the plexiglass for your ticket window? Did you order it from the same place as the difusers for the movie posters?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> Terry



It would probably help if I read all of your posts. I see the post were you said you sourced the plexi for the ticket window. I'll probably go the Professional Plastics route for mine.


Thanks,


Terry


----------



## chinadog

Terry,


Go ahead and send Jason (jikkjack) a PM. He may have an extra already made and if not can probably quote you the price for one.


Bud


----------



## Terry H.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17488097
> 
> 
> Terry,
> 
> 
> Go ahead and send Jason (jikkjack) a PM. He may have an extra already made and if not can probably quote you the price for one.
> 
> 
> Bud



Thanks Bud!


----------



## chinadog

Got my Home Theater Revealed disc from WarrenP in the mail the other day. Thanks Warren! Pretty funny watching yourself. The kids had some laughs watching their old man.


Bud


----------



## Mr. Goodcat

Got my dvd too. Great job on the interview! I was nervous as hell during mine.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17805378
> 
> 
> Got my Home Theater Revealed disc from WarrenP in the mail the other day. Thanks Warren! Pretty funny watching yourself. The kids had some laughs watching their old man.
> 
> 
> Bud





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Goodcat* /forum/post/17805975
> 
> 
> Got my dvd too. Great job on the interview! I was nervous as hell during mine.



Don't be so hard on yourselves, guys. You both did awesome jobs on your theaters and presented them nicely to the rest of us.


Thanks for sharing!


Aram


----------



## warrenP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17810979
> 
> 
> Don't be so hard on yourselves, guys. You both did awesome jobs on your theaters and presented them nicely to the rest of us.
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> 
> Aram



Yes, please don't be so hard on yourselves! Everyone is their own worst critic. I've actually had emails come in the same day where email was an owner asked me to come and do a reshoot, and another email was a person commenting on that very owner as informative and helpful. You guys did very well, and Aram I'm glad you enjoyed their theaters, they are great guys.


----------



## carboranadum

Just ordered a subscription. Featuring Bud's theater made the decision an easy one!


Will back issues become available?


CJ


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Happy New Year folks!


Jason and I just finished out another HT install (not a dedicated room) and I got the bug again. Ordered some of the Shearweave AT material tonight. I also have a PM into Chris for the Seymour XD materia l. Looks like we're going to attempt a DIY 2:35.1 screen and will work with Jason on the masking system at the same time. Probably be a couple of weeks before we start, but it should be a fun project.


Bud


----------



## counterfiend

Looks Great


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Happy new year Bud. Good luck with the masking system build. We'll be watching.


----------



## kjlewie

Good job on the HT revealed dvd. I enjoyed it very much. As I watched, I couldn't help but think about how neat these dvds are for someone planning their own build. Good stuff.


----------



## chinadog

kjlewie -


Thanks! Nice build btw, I just went through it quick.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

Got my copy of the HT Revealed disk featuring Bud's theater today. Will fire it up this evening or tomorrow and try to learn from the master!


Can't wait!


CJ


----------



## HTanderson

So, where's this recently completed HT install located??? I'd love to check out the work. ha!


Sean


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/17840717
> 
> 
> Got my copy of the HT Revealed disk featuring Bud's theater today. Will fire it up this evening or tomorrow and try to learn from the master!
> 
> 
> Can't wait!
> 
> 
> CJ



"The Master"? LOL!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTanderson* /forum/post/17842907
> 
> 
> So, where's this recently completed HT install located??? I'd love to check out the work. ha!
> 
> 
> Sean



Still a few tweaks, but done. Have you checked it out? What's the deal with your room? Need some help?










Bud


----------



## chinadog

Shearweave shipped. Got an email from Chris on the XD material, should have that ordered by the end of the week I think. Started looking at some of the DIY masking systems just for ideas. Will have to take a closer look at Jason's design and I have some ideas of my own. Need to take some official measurements, but looks like I'm looking at about a 128 inch diagonal 2:35.1 screen (from a 104" 16:9) and will mask it vertically.


Bud


----------



## Anthony A.

i just ordered my masking stuff from ken at avoutlet. he was extremely helpful... i highly recommend. i should be getting the parts next week sometime. the thread below is very informative and should give you some ideas.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=941076


----------



## chinadog

Anthony, thanks. I have that thread bookmarked somewhere, need to go through it again. thanks for the reminder.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Shearweave arrived today. Planning on leaving it in the plastic until I get the XD material so nothing happens to it. Still have to order the XD material, Chris and I exchanged some emails, but have not ordered yet. I was playing with the zoom of the AE3000 and I may have the move the projector back some, which would be a pain in the ass since I have GOMed the soffit and would have to redo that and move the projector box back. The reason I think I may have to move the projector back some is that when using the zoom on a 2.35:1 movie, the new vertical picture did not seem to fill the whole portion of the vertical height. In other words, I still had slight bars top and bottom of the picture. I was hoping to use the same vertical height as the the 16:9 screen, which means I won't have to reduce the 16:9 movies and HDTV at all, I would just mask the sides of the 2.35:1 screen. The screen image would be the exact same size as what I have now for HDTV. When I remove the masking for 2:35.1 showings, I get the same height, just the extra width. Make sense?


My options if I can't get that image height is to either move the projector back a little or reduce the screen size some vertically. Actually I could push the screen wall back a little too if I'm going to rebuild it. Hmmm.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Bud,


I want to do what you are doing with the 2.35.1 height the same as my 16:9. How far back is your projector now?


----------



## oman321

Hey Bud,


Looking foward to seeing your redo of the Screenwall. I was gonna say maybe move the sceen back a little but of course you have thought of that potential already.


I'm making pretty good progess and as soon as I get counter top in, finish the last strip of flooring and wrap my top panels for the HT, I'm going to work on my marquee sign that you hooked me up with.


I got some Christmas Led and regular lights so I can light it up and make it look like the bulbs are flashing. I plan to tie it in with an Insteon switch or outlet since I already have the X10 IR control module so I can automate it. Then I'll have to see how I can make some static cling letters to top it off.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/17914423
> 
> 
> Bud,
> 
> 
> I want to do what you are doing with the 2.35.1 height the same as my 16:9. How far back is your projector now?



Randy,


The exact measurement is buried in this thread somewhere, but it's about 13 feet I think. You thinking AT?


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/17914857
> 
> 
> I'm making pretty good progess and as soon as I get counter top in, finish the last strip of flooring and wrap my top panels for the HT, I'm going to work on my marquee sign that you hooked me up with.
> 
> 
> I got some Christmas Led and regular lights so I can light it up and make it look like the bulbs are flashing. I plan to tie it in with an Insteon switch or outlet since I already have the X10 IR control module so I can automate it. Then I'll have to see how I can make some static cling letters to top it off.




Sounds like a plan. Curious how those LEDs work out. I still have plans for my big marquee, but that project has been stalled forever. I'm also converting my storage room off the concession area into an exercise room. Almost done cleaning it out and most of the drywall is already done. Need to run some AV wiring and drywall the ceiling. Amazing how one thing at a time never ever really happens? Always have to start three things at once.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17920581
> 
> 
> Amazing how one thing at a time never ever really happens? Always have to start three things at once.
> 
> 
> Bud



Isn't that the truth. I have the same affliction. Memorial day will make 3 years of HT and basement finishing. It's been a long road!


CJ


----------



## chinadog

And you haven't gotten Loganed yet?


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Sample of the XD material on the way. The 63in material may be to narrow when I tilt the material, so may go with the 90+ inch stuff. They will also custom cut it for a fee.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17927446
> 
> 
> And you haven't gotten Loganed yet?
> 
> 
> Bud



Sheah, I have been. I think I was number 4 or 5 on his list. Given the rate he's going, he'll be working on his space for a few more years!


CJ


----------



## HeyNow^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17920546
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> 
> The exact measurement is buried in this thread somewhere, but it's about 13 feet I think. You thinking AT?
> 
> 
> Bud



Yes, I am. My projector is back about 15 feet and I have been thinking about the Panny and wondering if it would work for me.


----------



## oman321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17927499
> 
> 
> Sample of the XD material on the way. The 63in material may be to narrow when I tilt the material, so may go with the 90+ inch stuff. They will also custom cut it for a fee.
> 
> 
> Bud



No need to tilt for the Panny's but best to do if you want to future proof for next gen projectors. The stuff is so easy to cut I wouldn't pay extra for it, plus you want to be sure to get the max tilt out of it.


----------



## chinadog

AE4000 would work perfectly, no doubt in my mind. You want to do a sanity check with the throw distance from projector central, but should be fine. I just installed one of those over the holidays. Great projector with a very flexible throw.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/17929776
> 
> 
> No need to tilt for the Panny's but best to do if you want to future proof for next gen projectors. The stuff is so easy to cut I wouldn't pay extra for it, plus you want to be sure to get the max tilt out of it.



Yes, understood with the LCDs it's not an issue, but you're correct. Measure twice, tilt once.







Would still do it just in case I swap out the projector in the future, although it won't be anytime in the near future.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

OK, got my sample of the XD material from Chris. Looks promising and will need to do some comparisons between the two materials. Hopefully will steal a little time this weekend to do some testing.


Bud


----------



## warrenP

I've been too busy so this took too long (how many words with two o's can I get in one sentence?) but here is the trailer that features Bud and his fine Blazing Ridge Cinema. (I've posted this over in Jason's as well...)


It's still processing, so I don't know when the 720p HD version will be ready... but it is there to see. Enjoy!










Embed below, link here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrVvfCS72Ac


----------



## chinadog

Thanks Warren. Not sure why I said "Theater", when I really should have said "Cinema"!


Bud


----------



## warrenP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/17984063
> 
> 
> Thanks Warren. Not sure why I said "Theater", when I really should have said "Cinema"!
> 
> 
> Bud



You're welcome, and thank you again! I don't think anyone will mind the name thing, however I did edit the thread to be correct in the text. At the speed you guys are changing things, if I make it down to Atlanta for some more theaters, I'll need to stop by and check out all the new stuff!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warrenP* /forum/post/17984110
> 
> 
> At the speed you guys are changing things, if I make it down to Atlanta for some more theaters, I'll need to stop by and check out all the new stuff!



Anytime!


Bud


----------



## smakovits

Nice little video there. Congrats. Place looks great.


----------



## HeyNow^

That's great! I remember when you built that sliding hush box!


----------



## haaswood

Is the Home Theater Revealed Volume 6 with Bud the "current shipping" version? Subscribing would _require_ the Bud volume.....


----------



## JapanDave

I just got the DVD the other day and I have to say very well done!


----------



## warrenP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haaswood* /forum/post/18239836
> 
> 
> Is the Home Theater Revealed Volume 6 with Bud the "current shipping" version? Subscribing would _require_ the Bud volume.....



Actually production just switched (at the 1st of March) to V7... Bud's was in V6. Just an FYI...


----------



## haaswood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warrenP* /forum/post/18243631
> 
> 
> Actually production just switched (at the 1st of March) to V7... Bud's was in V6. Just an FYI...



Can V6 be had or is that a no go??


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Still no movement on the 2.35:1 screen. Had some personal stuff on top of work stuff, then went up to Chicago with the kids on Spring Break last week. Had a blast. Now finishing up taxes and some other stuff that is sucking the life out of me.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Are you saying that you didn't make Augusta this year?


----------



## oman321

Glad you stopped in. I hadn't seen the video clip up above, pretty cool.


I was getting ready to make my marquee sign when disaster struck (the great flood of 2010). I still had the sign in the original packaging you sent me standing vertically in my equipment closet, the bottom of the tube got wet but the sign was saved thank goodness. Now it is safely stored in my bedroom closet.


I hope nothing seriously personnel and that you and the family are doing well. Looking forward to seeing what you end up doing.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HeyNow^* /forum/post/18486777
> 
> 
> Are you saying that you didn't make Augusta this year?



Not this year, haven't been in about three years. Love Augusta and would go if the opportunity presented itself, although would avoid the Tiger crowds, lost a lot of respect for him regardless of his golf abilities.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oman321* /forum/post/18486808
> 
> 
> Glad you stopped in. I hadn't seen the video clip up above, pretty cool.
> 
> 
> I was getting ready to make my marquee sign when disaster struck (the great flood of 2010). I still had the sign in the original packaging you sent me standing vertically in my equipment closet, the bottom of the tube got wet but the sign was saved thank goodness. Now it is safely stored in my bedroom closet.
> 
> 
> I hope nothing seriously personnel and that you and the family are doing well. Looking forward to seeing what you end up doing.



Wheew! Glad it survived!


Thanks. Everyone is well on my side, very busy though.


Bud


----------



## Mfusick

this is an amazing build OP - very nice job


----------



## chinadog

Thanks!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Checking out the AVS iPhone app. Works good!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

So. Been a long time. News is I may be moving to Knoxville. Dunno know yet. Anyone in the Knoxville area? How's the housing market and the home theater market?


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

HT 2.0...dreaming in the works?


----------



## ebr

Hey Bud - welcome to the LSTB (League of Serial Theater Builders)







.


----------



## Lisalynn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/19415527
> 
> 
> So. Been a long time. News is I may be moving to Knoxville.
> 
> 
> Bud



...does that mean we get to do it all over again??









Lis


----------



## Brad Horstkotte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/19415527
> 
> 
> So. Been a long time. News is I may be moving to Knoxville. Dunno know yet. Anyone in the Knoxville area? How's the housing market and the home theater market?
> 
> 
> Bud



Good news if it means another build thread is coming - pre-subbed! =)


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Well, if you put part two here, you might catch Sandman's view total. Good luck with the potential move. Hope its for good reasons.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/19415545
> 
> 
> HT 2.0...dreaming in the works?



2.0 would definitely be in the works, but likely I'll end up going into an apartment in January for a few months or so until I can get in order to put on the market. My neighbor (two houses over) keeps saying they want to buy it. We'll see if that'll work out or not. That'll at least give me time to check out the Knoxville housing market too. I expect I'm going to be very picky.










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebr* /forum/post/19416935
> 
> 
> Hey Bud - welcome to the LSTB (League of Serial Theater Builders)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



LOL, I've been building a few on the side, just not for me.







Can't wait to start!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lisalynn* /forum/post/19417058
> 
> 
> ...does that mean we get to do it all over again??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lis



Wouldn't have it any other way!










Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Horstkotte* /forum/post/19417371
> 
> 
> Good news if it means another build thread is coming - pre-subbed! =)



Gotta find a house first, but the basement is going to sell the house. LOL


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/19417523
> 
> 
> Well, if you put part two here, you might catch Sandman's view total. Good luck with the potential move. Hope its for good reasons.



Dave,


I think I'd start a fresh thread.


I have a great opportunity that I stumbled across and its going to be hard to resist. The company wants the family to come up for a long weekend to show us the town. Will likely have to make decision by the end of the month.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!


Spent last weekend up in Knoxville and part of a day with a realtor looking at houses. Not a lot of houses with basements for sale, a little surprised. Housing is a little more expensive than my immediate area. My wife wasn't impressed with anything we looked at while we were looking and neither was I for that matter. We're still haven't figured out if I'm actually going to take the job (noticed I said 'we'), but have to make a decision soon. Looking at listings online and there seems to be a lot of potential though. I guess the little extra in price won't be bad considering there is no income tax in TN and the property taxes are very low.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/19559152
> 
> 
> I guess the little extra in price won't be bad considering there is no income tax in TN and the property taxes are very low.



True but you have to add 20 minutes to every trip to the grocery store. I lived in Nashville for a year and checking out at the supermarket was a riot. It was local custom to chat up a storm with the checker. If you were 3rd or 4th in line you just had to wait while the customer talked about everything that had happened in their life since the last time they were in the store.


If nothing in the homes strikes your fancy how about doing a stand alone out-building like Gpowers? You could really fulfill your need to build if you started from the ground up.


----------



## HeyNow^

Slowing down can be good.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

In a speed trap maybe.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/19559233
> 
> 
> True but you have to add 20 minutes to every trip to the grocery store. I lived in Nashville for a year and checking out at the supermarket was a riot. It was local custom to chat up a storm with the checker. If you were 3rd or 4th in line you just had to wait while the customer talked about everything that had happened in their life since the last time they were in the store.
> 
> 
> If nothing in the homes strikes your fancy how about doing a stand alone out-building like Gpowers? You could really fulfill your need to build if you started from the ground up.



LOL, yeah, but people are friendly, so that's a good thing and I'll fit right in!


A stand alone is a great idea, but I'm still hoping I find the right basement with a house attached.










Bud


----------



## chinadog

I slowed down moving from the northeast to Atlanta! Going to Knoxville and slowing down might take some getting used to!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Decision made! *We're Knoxville bound!* Anyone want a great house with a cool basement and kickass theater?


I plan on starting the job on Jan 17. Looking to buy a place in the March/April timeframe. We're going to keep the kids in school until the end of the year and move in June, then get the house on the market then.


Bud


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Congratulations! Someone in Atlanta just got lucky.


----------



## larryep

Bud,


I will be looking for Blazing Ridge 2 the Remake!!

Congrats on the new up coming move.


Larry


----------



## mn_hokie

Congrats! The next theater will be just as nice, if not better. We made the move up here from Atlanta and I'm already planning out the next one


----------



## carboranadum

Congratulations! Don't let the new buyer get lucky...make them PAY. Get some reprints of the Electronic Home article and have a copy of your the DVD handy as an incentive for potential buyers.


I'm happy that you are embarking on a new adventure, and anxious to see your new build thread!


----------



## HeyNow^

Wooo hoo... a new Bud build coming! Congrats, sir!


----------



## BritInVA

Congrats Bud


I say if Realtor says there is no premium for the HT, put your old PJ back and replace with a cheap HTIB


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BritInVA* /forum/post/19686489
> 
> 
> I say if Realtor says there is no premium for the HT, put your old PJ back and replace with a cheap HTIB



I'd say find another realtor in that case!


----------



## chinadog

Hey guys, thanks. Should be an adventure for sure. I'll be scouting out houses for the right basement a couple of months before the better half gets to make her decision. Got my fingers crossed.










Taking a job with Scripps Networks (HGTV, DIY Network, Cooking Channel, Food Network, The Travel Channel, GAC), should be a lot shorter commute and no operational on-call work. Should be a great quality of life change.


The next couple of weeks should be interesting in the old job, we launched Conan O'Brian's new site last Friday, the new NCAA.com site yesterday and we're launching another new site called NBA Hoop Troop tomorrow. All right before everyone leaves for the rest of the year. I have a feeling I'll be on operational calls over the next 10 days.










Hope you guys have a great holiday!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I watch those channels way too much. Congrats on starting the next adventure. And, Merry Christmas.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Congratulations on the beginning of a new adventure!


I hope you can have some influence on HGTV/DIY to get better/expanded coverage of Home theaters done right. The shows that I have seen have left me wanting more.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/19689745
> 
> 
> I watch those channels way too much. Congrats on starting the next adventure. And, Merry Christmas.



Thanks Dave!


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/19689765
> 
> 
> Congratulations on the beginning of a new adventure!
> 
> 
> I hope you can have some influence on HGTV/DIY to get better/expanded coverage of Home theaters done right. The shows that I have seen have left me wanting more.



Thanks Big.


I agree and I'll see what I can do, although I'll be on the site development side and not on the broadcast side of the business.


Bud


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, you may be able to get them to help with the new theater, film it and do it right, they may even foot part of the bill.


----------



## oman321

Congrats Bud! Looks like it is a positive thing for you. I look foward to your next build, and I'm with Chiahead, you may be able to get a showcase out of it. That would be sweet especially if they foot all or part of the bill.


----------



## Chiahead

Heck, having Amy Matthews around for a bit would not be so bad either...


----------



## chinadog

Yes, that would be nice - having them pay for part or all of it AND having Amy Matthews around the house!










Happy Holidays everyone!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, made it through my first week in Knoxville and it was great. o real time to go start house hunting, but expect that'll start in February. Should be fun!


Bud


----------



## oman321

The adventure has begun! Good luck is finding just the right spot.


----------



## chinadog

Still looking for the right house. Been a little frustrated with it. Most of the basements are finished already. I found two houses that had potential theater rooms in the basement, but didn't like the rest of the house. Apartment living is no fun, although I just picked up an Apple TV to pass the time.










Bud


----------



## tlogan6797

Here I am, late to the party AGAIN!


Congrats, and I'm glad it's working out for you. Hope you find something where you can create another masterpiece. Would be great to see it on TV, like Bryan's House. And you know Amy is married, right? At least you didn't swoon over the possibility of having HOH do it. Not that there's anything wrong with that.



> Quote:
> I lived in Nashville for a year and checking out at the supermarket was a riot.



I was in Nashville for about 8 months or so and this ACTUALLY happened.


I'm second in line at a drugstore cashier. There's a guy in front of me. Like Big says, I'm waiting in line while they're chatting. Then the girl leans into the microphone and broadcasts all over the store:


"I need a price check on the 12-pack of Trojan condoms......Price check on the Trojan condoms!"


----------



## Chiahead

Come on Bud, DIY, build a house from scratch and make it a work expense.


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Hang in there Bud, hope you find what you're looking for soon. And then the build - can you just create an empty build thread so I can pre-sub?


----------



## carboranadum

Hang in there Bud. Maybe you can concentrate on the getting the house that you want at a good price, finished basement or not. You can always gut a part or all of it and move forward with a build. You can also find a builder and have a custom place built. It would take a while and you would have to find a rental, but prices should be good right now, so it may be worth a look.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Good luck hunting Bud.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Looked at two tonight, both very nice. Both finished basements, one with a lot of potential for a theater room. Will try and get the wife to take a peek soon.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

Quote:

Originally Posted by *chinadog* 
Thanks guys. Looked at two tonight, both very nice. Both finished basements, one with a lot of potential for a theater room. Will try and get the wife to take a peek soon.


Bud
Just buy one and tell her you did it because you thought she would like it.


----------



## chinadog

Anyone recognize this theater? I may go check out this house and was curious if it was done by someone here. Looks familiar.


----------



## oman321

Does look familiar, they used the same carpet and color theme that Jamis selected. May look at his thread to see if the carpet came from someone there or if they took their cue from him.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20197677
> 
> 
> Just buy one and tell her you did it because you thought she would like it.



Thought I had her convinced this week on the house with the potential theater room, but she hasn't bit yet. We'll keep looking. Saw enough with a general purpose room that was sorta weird, but we've got slim pickins.










Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/20266556
> 
> 
> Thought I had her convinced this week on the house with the potential theater room, but she hasn't bit yet. We'll keep looking. Saw enough with a general purpose room that was sorta weird, but we've got slim pickins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bud



Than build man, build! There are plenty of home builders that are looking for work and land should be rather cheap...AND you can get EXACTLY what you want!










Good luck my friend! Great time to buy, too!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20267249
> 
> 
> Than build man, build! There are plenty of home builders that are looking for work and land should be rather cheap...AND you can get EXACTLY what you want!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck my friend! Great time to buy, too!



Would love to, but with my luck the builder would go bankrupt half way through the build.










Another house possibility this week, the wife is already excited about this one. The basement is finished already, but think it may work, have not seen it yet except for the pics.


Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

No Master this year, Bud? It was a good one.


----------



## chinadog

Hey Randy,


Watched most of it this year, but did not attend. Would have been nice. I put in for tickets for next year, although it may be a longer haul from Knoxville if I manage to get tickets!


Bud


----------



## donjuanwater

Hi Bud,


Thanks for responding to my linkedin email and being empathetic to my insecurity about moving forward with my HT build without a engineering degree. I just finished all 143 pages of this thread and it still holds the record of most posts....ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW!!!!!!!!!! This is the ultimate and best thread probably on the entire internet on a personal HT build step by step. I hope the new job is going well Bud, this is the perfect time to buy a home so you will find one.


-Peter


----------



## chinadog

Hey Peter, thanks for the compliments, not sure if it's the best, I've learned a lot from a lot of folks here. Start a thread, post pictures and ask a lot of questions. If you build it, they will comment!


Walked through a house today. Beautiful house, love the construction, the materials, the layout, etc. It even had a "media room". Well, it was a room with potential at least. It was used as a room with a TV slapped on longwall of a rectangular room, but it was big enough to work with.


Only problem with it was the backyard backed up to a lot on another culdesac that was much higher than the lot the house was on and I'm picturing a house built eventually where the back deck is above the roof line of this house and these people are staring straight down into the backyard. Made me sad, actually that I really loved the house and then looked up from the back deck. Crap. I don't think trees could grow high enough and fast enough to fix that problem.


I am going to look at the plat maps for the boundaries and have even thought about possibly even buying the lot behind us so it can't be built on, but that may be a little crazy cost wise. Dunno.


Who knows, maybe I WILL consider building the same house (or similar) on another lot.


Bud


----------



## Chiahead

Bud, We had a house like that in our last house and we planted an Austree. It was 5'-6' with the root ball when we bought it. That thing shot up!!! Within about 2-3 years it was as tall as our house and was crowding out the aspen we had near it. If we drive by the house now, after about 12 years, it is the biggest beast in the area, and the trunk has to be at least 2-3 foot diameter.


Roots spread way out (one reason we wanted to move, small backyard and the tree covered most of it)


Only problem we had was most snow storms here would just bend the branches, but one storm snapped a good size limb, this made for a bit of cleanup.

It does seem to attract bees if that is an issue.


Raking was interesting, as the leaves are long and narrow, so not as easy to rake as an elm or maple.


If you trim the sides it grows up, if you trim the top, it grows out. many houses around here use it a natural fence blocking for the backyard. Definitely for a larger yard though (our last lot was just over 6000 square feet, so the back was not that big.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

My wife and I are the experts at finding A+B, but not C, or A+C but not B when we want ABC. Its really frustrating.


Good hunting.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chiahead* /forum/post/20303763
> 
> 
> Bud, We had a house like that in our last house and we planted an Austree. It was 5'-6' with the root ball when we bought it. That thing shot up!!! Within about 2-3 years it was as tall as our house and was crowding out the aspen we had near it. If we drive by the house now, after about 12 years, it is the biggest beast in the area, and the trunk has to be at least 2-3 foot diameter.



Michael, will have to looked at it. Never heard of it. I'm thinking of another route - buying the damn lot so no one can build on it. Not sure I can afford the second lot though. Looking into it.


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* /forum/post/20303788
> 
> 
> My wife and I are the experts at finding A+B, but not C, or A+C but not B when we want ABC. Its really frustrating.
> 
> 
> Good hunting.



Dave,


Ain't that a *****!







Welcome to the club!


Bud


----------



## haaswood

Wow, look what happens when I don't check in here for a loooong while. Bud goes and moves!


That is the problem with certain areas of the country and lack of basements. Just don't get it! It is just the norm in Wisconsin.


Been to Knoxville for work before, great area. I think they are on the short list of best places to live -- not too hot, not too cold, etc. The work visits included that "huge" airport they have.







It is one of the very few places I said "I could live here".


Be sure to not move next to the University and the infamous "body farm" or whatever it is called.


I'm sure you will find what you are looking for -- we certainly are looking forward to following the process all over again. I'm guessing building is the correct way for you to go though. It would be nice to skip some of the steps in theater building (i.e. walls, etc. -- been there, done that would be the attitude).


I seem to recall you were looking at or purchased a cabin up somewhere you guys had visited -- is that now way out of the way or am I remembering incorrectly?


Oh well -- progress... right?










Best of luck to you and the family.


----------



## chinadog

Hasswood,


I really like it too. We'll find the right place, sooner or later. Hopefully sooner! We do have a potential, but for some reason I missed the property tax on the house, it's a lot more than others (at least double) not sure why it's as much as it is, other comps close by are like 2K less. Might have to fight it. The other problem is the house has hail damage from the storms a couple of weeks ago and they're going to replace the roof and shutters. There are ALOT of house getting roofs replaced in the area and I don't want to make an offer until I know whats going on with that house and the roof. I don't want it rushed by some knuckle head just to get it done, then I'm responsible for it (and it leaks). I'll figure it out. Anyway, this house has a finished room in the basement I'd definitely redo.


The cabin from the house in Atlanta, is about 1.5 hours. Now it's a little less than two hours away. It's about 15 mins from the TN/NC/GA line in a town called Blue Ridge, GA.
http://maps.google.com/maps?client=s...6,1.755066&z=9 


Bud


----------



## warrenP

Hey Bud,


I just got caught up on your thread here. Best of luck in moving forward. I'm grateful for the chance to see your last theater and basement, and I'm sure the next place will be awesome as well.


Enjoy the hunt, you'll find the place that's right. -Warren


----------



## chinadog

Quote:

Originally Posted by *warrenP* 
Hey Bud,


I just got caught up on your thread here. Best of luck in moving forward. I'm grateful for the chance to see your last theater and basement, and I'm sure the next place will be awesome as well.


Enjoy the hunt, you'll find the place that's right. -Warren
Hey Warren, thanks for checking in. The "transition" period is the worst for me, looking forward to getting over this and getting back into a routine. Looking forward to building something new, too.


Bud


----------



## jelloslug

You should just move a little more to the east.


----------



## carboranadum

Yes, speaking on behalf of the NoVA HT Community, we would love to add you to our ranks!










Hope you find the right place soon. I'm ready for your next build thread!


----------



## warrenP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20447507
> 
> 
> Yes, speaking on behalf of the NoVA HT Community, we would love to add you to our ranks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You NoVA guys are already too powerful!

















He should come to Chicago.


----------



## HeyNow^

AVS Mafia!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jelloslug* /forum/post/20445362
> 
> 
> You should just move a little more to the east.



Are you talking Greenville, SC? Driven through it a million times I think...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20447507
> 
> 
> Yes, speaking on behalf of the NoVA HT Community, we would love to add you to our ranks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you find the right place soon. I'm ready for your next build thread!



Hmm, need to look at a map, you guys aren't that far way anymore.







Especially with my trips to Chevy Chase and Reston recently...


Bud


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warrenP* /forum/post/20447521
> 
> 
> You NoVA guys are already too powerful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He should come to Chicago.



Funny, being a BEARS fan and all, I actually told my wife I was working my way up to Chicago a little bit at a time. My neighbor is now moving and heading up to Chicago in the next couple of weeks. Now I have another house for sale to contend with on my street (and his company will buy it after 90 days).


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Wife and kids were up over the week, BTW and saw a few places, one that I had seen before (wasn't in love with the lot house). She says she loves that house. I discovered that it has both city and county property taxes (versus just county in the next sub), so I was made that the taxes are double and based on 2007 prices. More than I'm paying now by a couple of grand. I could probably get them reassessed though. The other factor is with all the real bad weather that came through a couple of weeks back, there are a ton of roof problems and sure enough, this roof needs to be replaced. I don't want to make an offer and then have some Yahoo put on teh roof just to sell the house, so I'm feeling that out too. Stay tuned.


Bud


----------



## networkcrasher

DA BEARS! Name my hero....


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *networkcrasher* /forum/post/20457600
> 
> 
> DA BEARS! Name my hero....



#54, Urlacher, of course! Nice pic. Another Bears fans from the ATL. The Bears play the Falcons in Chicago this year, assuming they play at all. Would love to go up for the weekend and take in the game.


Bud


----------



## networkcrasher

I actually tried to convince my wife that we needed to go to that game... It's actually the season opener! We went to both of the games they had here in Atlanta, even though we couldn't squeak out a win, we still had a great time. I somehow even convinced my wife (an Atlanta native) to wear a Bears jersey...


Heck, even my dog's named Payton! (check the logo on his name tag)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *networkcrasher* /forum/post/20457707
> 
> 
> I actually tried to convince my wife that we needed to go to that game... It's actually the season opener! We went to both of the games they had here in Atlanta, even though we couldn't squeak out a win, we still had a great time. I somehow even convinced my wife (an Atlanta native) to wear a Bears jersey...
> 
> 
> Heck, even my dog's named Payton! (check the logo on his name tag)



Too funny. I was up there in April of last year with the kids. Had a great time (even though there was no game).



















Bud


----------



## carboranadum

Quote:

Originally Posted by *warrenP* 
You NoVA guys are already too powerful!

















He should come to Chicago.
We see how you guys roll. One of the more popular threads on this board was the RASTER thread! He made Chicago look...livable.


----------



## carboranadum

Quote:

Originally Posted by *chinadog* 
Hmm, need to look at a map, you guys aren't that far way anymore.







Especially with my trips to Chevy Chase and Reston recently...


Bud
HAHAHAHAHA...Reston is near the epicenter of the NoVA crew! Let us know when you will be up this way again. We'll see if we can't pull together a meet at a local forum member's place and get the crew together!


CJ


----------



## warrenP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20459241
> 
> 
> We see how you guys roll. One of the more popular threads on this board was the RASTER thread! He made Chicago look...livable.



Yeah, if life here was like his, no one would leave! Instead we get crappy weather most of the year, horrid traffic all of the year, high taxes, overwhelming state debt, and corn. Maybe I should volunteer for the local tourism board.


----------



## chinadog

Warren,


But it's a cool city to visit! I plan on coming back when I can!


Bud


----------



## Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> #54, Urlacher, of course! Nice pic. Another Bears fans from the ATL. The Bears play the Falcons in Chicago this year, assuming they play at all. Would love to go up for the weekend and take in the game.
> 
> 
> Bud



Urlacher was in the photo? Where?


----------



## chinadog

NEWS!


After several (5) counter offers, we've got a house.







It's the one a mentioned before, the one with the media room, higher taxes and the yard I'm not completely crazy about. Did I settle? I don't think so. We made a pretty low offer on a house that was probably already pretty undervalued and managed to get them down a bunch. If it hadn't worked out, I was OK with walking away. Turns out the roof was being replaced by the original builder and I have the insurance claim information so we're good. I had spoken to the builder, the tax accessor, everyone and their brother, so I'm finally comfortable with it. Always really liked the house, but wanted the wife to make her decision. Scheduled to close on 7/15. YES, that's five weeks away. I'm going to be busy. Understatement.










That being said, I won't likely do any theater work until I sell my other house. Two mortgages will do that to you. I can however set the stage.....


The current media room is 12Wx18Lx9H, which is about a foot shorter than what I had before. They must have had a flat screen on one of the long walls and a couch opposite. It has sconces all around the room. No soffits. No cans. The walls are paint a darkish red-ish purple-ish (yuck) with brown carpets (I think, they're different than the rest of the basement). The entrance is from hallow double doors in the back, centered on the back wall. As you walk in, (love this), there is a door in the corner. Closet, maybe? To my surprise, there is about an 8 foot wide by 18 foot long room - all concrete. Panic or tornado room probably. I have not pulled the insulation off the ceiling, but I believe it's under the front porch and that's also concrete. Perfect for an equipment closet/concession area/ media storage/panic room/whatever room.


I'll probably have some demolition to do, I might have to tear out some drywall to figure out the existing LV and HV wiring. I thinking figuring out the platform will be the tricky part. Either leave the doors and step up immediately to the platform, move the door to one side and have an aisle on one side, etc. I'll have to see how my Berks are going to work out changing the configuration (I have a row of 4 and 2, with a love seat including one armless section). Plenty of time to think about it.


Have not looked at equipment and it'll change by the time I'm back in the market, but definitely want to go scope and perf, likely SmX (Ruben, will be beating on your door), assuming I have the room. Equipment TBD, but will do something similar to what I have now.


Before anyone asks for pics (you know who you are), I'll have some soon. I have to have the inspection done in the next 10 days, so I'll make sure I get them.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Congrats Bud.


I'm sure you will make good the space you have.... and Knoxville could be a potential road trip for us NoVa builders..... so hurry up as your rival is Logan and were all growing old waiting


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Rock on. Glad you got the house lined up. I am sure you will do better than me at getting version 2 going. Good luck with the sale. I'll be curious to see your impressions of the theater's impact on your sale.


----------



## carboranadum

CONGRATULATIONS! That is great news all around! You get a new crib, you get to do HT II, and we get to come along for the ride!


WINNER, WINNER, CHICKEN DINNER!


----------



## HeyNow^

New build thread! Any specultion on what Bud will call his new theater from those following this thread? Its not like Bud is listening or anything.


----------



## chinadog

No idea yet. I don't like the name of the street, so that's no play of words there. The TN Theater is in Knoxville....











Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

Tennesee Stud! (Doc Watson)


----------



## warrenP

Congrats! I'm looking forward to the next build thread as well. Good times!


----------



## judsonp

Well this has my attention... Congrats!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks all. Let the fun begin - the purchasing, mortgaging and moving fun, that is. Should be in the house by 7/20.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Inspection today ... just got the results. For the most part, pretty typical stuff. New roof went on and boy, they did a sloppy job with flashing (or lack there of) and frickin' silicon caulk all over the place - really unprofessional. I guess they'll be doing it again.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Photos of the basement and future HT room (assuming they fix the roof):


Outside the room.










Walking in.










Left side back corner to the panic room (equipment room, concession area)










Panic room:










Kitchen/bar area.










Rest of the basement.










Huge closet on right side. Workshop entrance and storage on the left.










Bathroom straight ahead and bedroom on the left.










Bud


----------



## carboranadum

WOW, nice digs!


Hope it works out!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *carboranadum* /forum/post/20554272
> 
> 
> WOW, nice digs!
> 
> 
> Hope it works out!



Thank you sir. Needs a little of Bud's touch, but we'll get there. Thinking about redoing the bar too.


Bud


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Congrats bud, hope the next set of pics has some power tools strewn about =)


----------



## haaswood

She looks to have good bones!


Have fun with the move. My least favorite thing.


Glad to hear the cabin is still a reasonable drive. Good deal.


I was in Nashville and Memphis a couple weeks ago -- TN is great.


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys. Looking forward to getting the move behind me, selling the house and starting up the new theater.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Countdown to closing ..... 11 days. Lots to do still. Happy 4th everyone!


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

Happy Fourth, Bud! Can't wait for the new build thread!


----------



## judsonp

Looks like great space Bud! Good luck with the move...


----------



## oman321

I like the new space, looking forward to seeing what you do with it.


Congrats to you and your family.


Best of luck with the move.


Orlando


----------



## chinadog

Thanks, fellas.


LOTS to do still. Not sure I'll get everything I want done before the moves start packing us. Plan on leaving the equipment and I'm thinking about leaving the seats - sort of an incentive - having the room complete. Thoughts?


I've had the exterior repainted and the back yard re-sodded. Looks like a damn park now, had to leave it. I plan on spending a good 4-5 days inside doing touch up work, cleaning, getting the rugs cleaned and polishing up the hardwoods. The house should look pretty much new when I get it on the market.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

I don't recall that you have put your place on the market yet, but I could be wrong. I'd recommend that you be very clear on what you are taking and what stays. I'll add my $0.02 here on leaving stuff behind. On the equipment, I'd leave it behind only if it is listed in the sales contract. I'd be very clear that the high dollar equipment (if you had any) would be left only for a negotiated change. If you have something that you really want to move to a new setup, swap it out for lower quality stuff and take it with you (but do this before you put your place on the market if you can). Of course, you could look at this as an opportunity to upgrade










Good luck! This part has to be a really hard part...leaving the space that you worked so hard to build!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I am pretty sure I listed my equip and seats as negotiable for separate sale. I wound up doing a separate P&S for a very fair price as a side deal. I had the pixar animation shorts running during any showing (family friendly).


Good luck.


----------



## elmalloc

how big is that new theater room, perception can be deceptive


----------



## chinadog

Quote:

Originally Posted by *carboranadum* 
I don't recall that you have put your place on the market yet, but I could be wrong. I'd recommend that you be very clear on what you are taking and what stays. I'll add my $0.02 here on leaving stuff behind. On the equipment, I'd leave it behind only if it is listed in the sales contract. I'd be very clear that the high dollar equipment (if you had any) would be left only for a negotiated change. If you have something that you really want to move to a new setup, swap it out for lower quality stuff and take it with you (but do this before you put your place on the market if you can). Of course, you could look at this as an opportunity to upgrade










Good luck! This part has to be a really hard part...leaving the space that you worked so hard to build!








I was thinking that technology changes so fast, it may be worth the upgrade by the time I'm ready to finish out the equipment. Everything I have now is several models old, except for the AE3000. The Yamaha only supports 1080i, so that would definitely be upgraded.


I'm sort of banking on someone (the husband) walking downstairs and going "Holy ..." and that'll help seal the deal. The house is not on the market, so all those decorations are coming with me. Everything except the poster boxes. It won't be have the same impact while showing it empty as it is now, but that's the price we're paying for convenience. Leaving the seats will help the matter. I'd rather have the extra incentives for a quick sale than have the house sit on the market for a year.


Bud


----------



## mn_hokie

We had the same idea when selling. To me, it basically was like having a swimming pool in my backyard. We had feedback anywhere from "love the theater" to "this room would be better suited as a guest room". People either loved it or hated it.


In the end, we sold to a couple where the guy went nuts over the theater. I met both of them at the walkthrough to answer some questions and it was obvious that he was the driving force. They came in with a full price offer and wanted everything in the theater, which we countered. In the end, we left the screen and seats and took everything else.


----------



## chinadog

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dc_pilgrim* 
I am pretty sure I listed my equip and seats as negotiable for separate sale. I wound up doing a separate P&S for a very fair price as a side deal. I had the pixar animation shorts running during any showing (family friendly).


Good luck.
Would love to have everything running while people are checking the house, although I'll be long out of the house when that happens, unfortunately. I could get an open house scheduled and be there for that.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Quote:

Originally Posted by *elmalloc* 
how big is that new theater room, perception can be deceptive
I think it's 18Lx12Wx9H. About the same size as before, a little shorter.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mn_hokie* 
We had the same idea when selling. To me, it basically was like having a swimming pool in my backyard. We had feedback anywhere from "love the theater" to "this room would be better suited as a guest room". People either loved it or hated it.


In the end, we sold to a couple where the guy went nuts over the theater. I met both of them at the walkthrough to answer some questions and it was obvious that he was the driving force. They came in with a full price offer and wanted everything in the theater, which we countered. In the end, we left the screen and seats and took everything else.
I expect the same sort of reaction, honestly. Although we have 5 bedrooms AND a bonus room, so I don't think we'll run into the guest room issue.







Got my fingers cross that some sports/movie nut will gush over it. It's a tough, tough market here in Atlanta.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Tomorrow is the closing!


Side note. I can't BELIEVE how expensive that aluminum fencing is. I got a quote this week and nearly fell out of my chair. Brick columns in the corners are about 800.00 each. For what I'm going to the fence I could do the new home theater.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Well, it's official. Let the fun begin. NOT.


Bud


----------



## BritInVA

Congrats Bud


----------



## carboranadum

Congratulations!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys.


Most of the stuff they packed, they're loading the truck today and tomorrow. They put down flat boxes down the steps from the second floor and are sliding all the boxes down the steps like a water slide.


Nothing like 95 degrees out on a moving day, either.


Bud


----------



## Brad Horstkotte

Good luck Bud!


----------



## chinadog

For those keeping score, move is complete, chaos ensued, organization went by the wayside and settling has FINALLY started. Work trips to NYC and Reston immediately after the move just complicates things. Finally getting a breather.


Previous house is on the market about three weeks now, getting some traffic, which is great, and have all my digits crossed.







Wish me luck!


Bud


----------



## budk

Congrats Bud! My sister and her family live in Knoxville... it's a great area. Once you get settled, start looking for someone who can hook you up with Tennessee moonshine. It's really, really good !


----------



## chinadog

Hey Bud -


Was at the new Public Market in Farragut over the weekend and saw the Moonshine, but I didn't try it. Will have to make the effort.


Love the area and the 4 mile commute!


Bud


PS (And wow! post 5000 for me!)


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Bud, Reston is at the Epicenter of the NoVA HT building crowd. You should let us know if you have any free evenings when in town.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/20861149
> 
> 
> Bud, Reston is at the Epicenter of the NoVA HT building crowd. You should let us know if you have any free evenings when in town.



The last trip was unexpected due to some project issues. I found out the day before heading up there. I will however try and get up there at some point in the next couple of weeks, so will let you guys know.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/20861288
> 
> 
> The last trip was unexpected due to some project issues. I found out the day before heading up there. I will however try and get up there at some point in the next couple of weeks, so will let you guys know.
> 
> 
> Bud



COOL! MiniMeet somewhere for a meet and greet?


----------



## tlogan6797

Maybe we could have "working meet" at my place? I'm sure Bud would be MORE than happy to give a hand!


----------



## chinadog

So it's unlikely I'll have a vehicle and I'll be at the Hyatt, so gonna have to come and get me!


Bud


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/20863217
> 
> 
> So it's unlikely I'll have a vehicle and I'll be at the Hyatt, so gonna have to come and get me!
> 
> 
> Bud



Hyatt in Reston? That's only a few miles from a world class theater (the owner will chime in if he wishes). I can just smell a meet and greet!


Heck, if no one gets anything going, I'll have dinner with you at Big Bowl in the Town Center!


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

I can see the Hyatt from my house if I were to climb on my roof, but I'm not going up there, even for Bud!


Big Bowl? Jackson's is the spot.


----------



## carboranadum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIGmouthinDC* /forum/post/20864305
> 
> 
> I can see the Hyatt from my house if I were to climb on my roof, but I'm not going up there, even for Bud!
> 
> 
> Big Bowl? Jackson's is the spot.



Very good choice! I have an affinity for BB, but I like Jackson's too!


----------



## tlogan6797

IF I could climb up on my roof, I could at least see the Accenture building. Not sure about the Hyatt. But count me in! I like food.


----------



## chinadog

Maybe the week of Labor Day, trying to get people organized and get a decision made.


Bud


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Not a good week for me.


----------



## tlogan6797

I'll be around.


----------



## pterpm

could you tell me where can i order the wood letter like you? and do you have a sketch for the ticket window that you had please, i want to build the one like you, look so great

thank you


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pterpm* /forum/post/20881528
> 
> 
> could you tell me where can i order the wood letter like you? and do you have a sketch for the ticket window that you had please, i want to build the one like you, look so great
> 
> thank you



Not sure where the letters came from at this point, will try to dig through my email for an order confirmation. Looks like fotki (photo hosting) changed some URLs on me and I'll have to go back through the whole thread and update links. In the meantime, here is an album with shots: Ticket window and Poster Boxes .


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Update on trip - looks to be a video conference next week. We'll see what happens with the trip after that.


Bud


----------



## tlogan6797

We have video here in Northern Virginia. We're not WEST Virginia, you know.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/20884039
> 
> 
> We have video here in Northern Virginia. We're not WEST Virginia, you know.



LOL. OK, got it and I'm sure it's HD, too.










Bud


----------



## HeyNow^

We have real live actors playin'....West Virginia 3-D....! BTW we won, we knew when to bail on you southerners.


----------



## BritInVA

Hope you make it to Reston Bud..... Be good to see you again....... Just no Hooters there.


----------



## tlogan6797

I know where there's a Hooters.


----------



## BIGmouthinDC

Yea, I have Hootdar too.


----------



## chinadog

Was told by the realtor that we should have an offer on the house today. Not sure how good that offer will be obviously. We actually have two people interested really, one is a realtor. Got my fingers crossed. Starting to think about a design for the new space, but have not been able to focus. To fast path, maybe I'll explore the DE route.


Bud


----------



## tlogan6797

Good luck on the house. Hope it works out for you.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/20976109
> 
> 
> Good luck on the house. Hope it works out for you.



Thanks Tom!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Got the first offer today on the house today and they're off a bunch, so we countered with a final offer and we'll see how serious they are. Not bad really, considering this market, and the first offer came after 52 days.


We're supposed to have another offer looming, by a realtor no less, I'm expecting that'll be worse or more realistic. Dunno. Apparently, they came back a few times, checked out the schools, the community golf course, pools, club house and they were asking about property lines, trees and neighborhood kids.


Bud


----------



## Ben Harper

Hey Bud!


An offer after 52 days in this area is impressive. However, beyond the theater, you have a really great lot (probably the most private in the SD). I suspect you'll get what you want out of it.


I'm going all-in on my theater build in a few months. Just waiting for this lawsuit from my $%^*[email protected]# neighbors in Blue Ridge to be over.


Let me know if you need any help at your former residence or want to grab a beer when in town.


Ben


----------



## chinadog

Hey Ben, thanks for the response. Whats going on with you in Blue Ridge? Sounds, well, not good. We're good, the house has been empty since the beginning of August and of course, I took care of everything and the house looks brand new. Of course it hasn't been inspected, and I expect them to find 'something', but not worried at this point.


We're now under contract, wrapping this up at the end of October. Fingers crossed.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

COOL! Hope it works out!


----------



## chinadog

Woohoo! The old house appraised enough this week for the finance company to allow the buys to move forward. Looks like we're on for 10/31 - assuming the inspection goes well, but not worried about that.


Bud


----------



## carboranadum

That's great news! Congrats.


----------



## tlogan6797

Congrats. Must be a HUGE load off your mind. Good luck on closing!


----------



## chinadog

Thanks guys! Another monkey off my back! (No wife jokes please!







)


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Latest....


Inspection came back, nothing they want me to fix. I'm not sure if there was anything the inspector found or not.


BUT, finance company now wants a second appraisal. Not sure what that's about. That makes me nervous.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Started a new thread for the new build:

Chinadog's Tennessee Theater!


----------



## jdanforth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog* /forum/post/21077538
> 
> 
> Latest....
> 
> 
> Inspection came back, nothing they want me to fix. I'm not sure if there was anything the inspector found or not.
> 
> 
> BUT, finance company now wants a second appraisal. Not sure what that's about. That makes me nervous.
> 
> 
> Bud



I'm sure it's nothing. Try not to sweat it.


I was a nervous wreck for weeks while we were selling our last house.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdanforth* /forum/post/21077619
> 
> 
> I'm sure it's nothing. Try not to sweat it.
> 
> 
> I was a nervous wreck for weeks while we were selling our last house.



I'm OK, just annoyed over something I have no control over. Damn banks got us all into this mess and continue to damper the economy. Just need to be patient for two more weeks.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Woohoo! Appraisal number two was high enough to get the buyers the finance. Eleven more days before I'm free.










Bud


----------



## mrpergo

Well let's get this party started.

You've had Sketchup for days now, you can use it on your laptop while your at the baseball game


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrpergo* /forum/post/21106141
> 
> 
> Well let's get this party started.
> 
> You've had Sketchup for days now, you can use it on your laptop while your at the baseball game



Ha! Is there a version for the iPhone too?


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Ok Bud, now that you are signed and sealed, any comments on the topic of what impact the theater had on the sale?


----------



## chinadog

For those folks keeping track, I FINALLY got the house closed on Monday after several delays. Done deal. Big sigh.


Dave, to answer your question, here are my comments:


I think the theater had a big impact on the sale of the house. Granted, its a great house on great lot to start with, but the theater and the basement was the icing on the cake. The fact that I left all the equipment and the seats was a selling point - it was a complete theater - turnkey and I think that really helps with the sale. I did not ask for additional funding for the equipment - after all it's now 3-4 years old. If I had pulled the equipment, then it would have been a pain for them to figure out the wiring and somewhat of a chore to get things up and running for them. I took the safe route in this market and I think the theater had a huge impact on moving the house quickly. After all, in the ATL market, which is horrible at this point, the house was on the market for 52 days. It was also one of the highest selling house in the subdivision in recent years (1800 homes in the subdivision - but different price points AND these people that purchased the house were already residents of the subdivision). Overall, i think it was a combination of factors that sold the house - but when I decided to actually build that house on that lot, I always had in mind resale and I knew it was going to go quickly. The theater was certainly a factor.


Bud


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Good stuff Bud and congrats on closing. Its nice to move forward with life.


Based on my sale, if nothing else it made it go faster in a tough market. I think I was 32 days on market. When I checked a year later, some of my competing units were still on the market.


Good luck clearing the list of other priorities. I have been stuck in that limbo for ah, 3 years now. But I'll get there.


----------



## chinadog

Just a quick Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all you AVSers. May there be many electronic goodies in your near future!


Bud


----------



## larryep

have a merry christmas Bud. congratulations on the sale of the house!


----------



## GetGray

Bud: Did you drywall over your windows. I saw you were considering it but didn't see if you had. Wondered what your wall assembly at the window was like and if you had any issues. I'm in the same climate (Nashville)


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GetGray* /forum/post/21498940
> 
> 
> Bud: Did you drywall over your windows. I saw you were considering it but didn't see if you had. Wondered what your wall assembly at the window was like and if you had any issues. I'm in the same climate (Nashville)



Here's where I start with painting the drywall and shortly after that I do the install. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...47#post6602647 


No issues really, the question is whether you want to do something permanant or something more like a plug that can be more easily removed if required. I wasn't sure how it would go over once I tried to sell the house, if the inspector would have an issue with it or not. Just in case I took a bunch of measurements in case I had to cut back through the fabric and open it up. Honestly though, the inspector probably had no clue that the windows were there though.










Bud


----------



## GetGray

Thanks. Looks a lot like what I planned. I'm dealing with a 2x4 wall inside a 2x6 exterior wall so I have some more depth to work with. Anyway, mine would be what I'd call semi-permanent. I was going to do plugs but for all the trouble I've about decided it won't be worth it since I won't be removing them for any reason other than a catastrophic event (e.g. broken window).


The "easy button" is to simply add some furring strips to the window perimeter (jamb) of the wall-in-wall where I had the windows left open when I drywalled. Add 2 layers of drywall to plug the holes. Attach layer 1 with a few screws to hold in place. Then caulk layer 1 with acoustic caulk, and when it sets remove the screws. Add the second layer of drwywall and screw it in. New mud the crack but don't tape. The mud should "grow" a hairline crack where the joint isn't taped. I'd make an effort to not mud the screws. This way, I get a flat joint, same material as a wall, a hairline indicator of where the thing really is in case I (or a future owner) wants to remove it. All one would have to do is remove screws, maybe hit the perimeter with a MultiMaster vibrating cutter, pull the drywall out, voila, ready to case and trim.


Maybe skip the mud altogether and just cauld with acoustic sealant.


Just fretting about what to put behind the drywall. Thinking I'll have window, then a blind or something to make Mrs. happy, then insulation, then vapor barrier (or not), then drywall.


Thanks,

Scott


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GetGray* /forum/post/21501377
> 
> 
> Just fretting about what to put behind the drywall. Thinking I'll have window, then a blind or something to make Mrs. happy, then insulation, then vapor barrier (or not), then drywall.



Several people have done the blind thing, I went with the painted drywall. One day I was outside working in the side yard and I was foolishly trying to look in the window, forgetting completely that it was the window I covered. It just looks like its a dark room or the window is tinted, you just can't see anything. Looks fine from the outside.


Bud


----------



## TMcG

Mold needs three things to grow - air, moisture and a food source. Take any one of these away and mold cannot grow. If I could proffer an opinion - close it off with materials that are not a food source - such as closing off the window with concrete board and not drywall. If you are to use drywall, use the fiberglass-faced drywall called DensArmour plus which has no paper. Seal the gaps with a high-quality exterior grade antimicrobial caulking, insulate and apply a vapor barrier. Seal the vapor barrier edges with a permanently pliable acoustic sealant. Now you have not offered any food source, have stopped air movement, and have tried to effectively keep the dew point (difference between interior and exterior temperatures with relative humidity) on the outside of the wall.


Or you could take one of two completely different approaches. 1. A nice dedicated home theater / media room is something that adds a lot of resale value to a home, especially if done well. So there is little chance of someone buying a home to convert the space back to a "normal" room unless they really, really needed to. So from this perspective why not just permanently close up the window and reside/brick the exterior as if the window never existed? 2. The other alternative would be to keep the window and install a motorized blackout shade. You could even have a secondary shade made with fabric that could mimic your acoustic treatment colors. Not the most ideal for sound control, but as someone else pointed out, it could be a readily available second point of egress.


Just my .02.


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG* /forum/post/21503268
> 
> 
> Mold needs three things to grow - air, moisture and a food source. Take any one of these away and mold cannot grow. If I could proffer an opinion - close it off with materials that are not a food source - such as closing off the window with concrete board and not drywall. If you are to use drywall, use the fiberglass-faced drywall called DensArmour plus which has no paper. Seal the gaps with a high-quality exterior grade caulking, insulate and apply a vapor barrier. Seal the vapor barrier edges with a permanently pliable acoustic sealant. Not you have not offered any food source, have stopped air movement, and have tried to effectively keep the dew point (difference between interior and exterior temperatures with relative humidity) on the outside of the wall.



An excellent recommendation.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG* /forum/post/21503268
> 
> 
> Or you could take one of two completely different approaches. 1. A nice dedicated home theater / media room is something that adds a lot of resale value to a home, especially if done well. So there is little chance of someone buying a home to convert the space back to a "normal" room unless they really, really needed to. So from this perspective why not just permanently close up the window and reside/brick the exterior as if the window never existed? 2. The other alternative would be to keep the window and install a motorized blackout shade. You could even have a secondary shade made with fabric that could mimic your acoustic treatment colors. Not the most ideal for sound control, but as someone else pointed out, it could be a readily available second point of egress.
> 
> 
> Just my .02.



Not sure it adds lots of resale value - most realtors will tell you its just finished space. It does help sell the house, IMO, if done well and you get the right buyer. I think it played into the sale of my home, but not entirely.


Bud


----------



## TMcG

OK, maybe not a lot of resale value, but value for sure.


To help sell the value of the theater to those who may not be familiar with its benefits and how enjoyable a family / entertainment activity a home theater could be, I programmed a special "demo" button on my AMX control system with a laminated note taped to the door, inviting people to come in, press the one button labeled "demo" and sit back to enjoy the 4 minute 37 second demo of the system.


The feedback I received from all but 7 people (out of 62) that viewed my home before it sold was extremely positive and specifically mentioned the theater. Let's face it, most people have a TV area in the basement, this is just an extreme TV area! One other point of note - I specifically mentioned that the equipment and seating was not part of the sale but could be negotiable. As it turned out, the couple I sold the home to purchased all of the equipment at my fair market value asking price and just viewed it as getting "free" installation, setup and programming. And when we were leaving the house, my wife and I left them a nice gift basket of some wine, 3 DVDs, some microwave popcorn and a few movie-theater sized boxes of candy. We received a thank you card the next week saying that they ended up staying up until 3AM their first night in the house watching all three DVDs because they enjoyed it so much and this was from a couple who had never seen a front projection setup in a residential setting. I've even gotten a few calls from the guy in recent years asking about different upgrade paths for certain equipment, so it has been a nice connection. Ironically, I still haven't made it a point to go back and see it even though he has offered...although being 600 miles away from this house hasn't helped!


----------



## chinadog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TMcG* /forum/post/21505054
> 
> 
> OK, maybe not a lot of resale value, but value for sure.
> 
> 
> To help sell the value of the theater to those who may not be familiar with its benefits and how enjoyable a family / entertainment activity a home theater could be, I programmed a special "demo" button on my AMX control system with a laminated note taped to the door, inviting people to come in, press the one button labeled "demo" and sit back to enjoy the 4 minute 37 second demo of the system.
> 
> 
> The feedback I received from all but 7 people (out of 62) that viewed my home before it sold was extremely positive and specifically mentioned the theater. Let's face it, most people have a TV area in the basement, this is just an extreme TV area! One other point of note - I specifically mentioned that the equipment and seating was not part of the sale but could be negotiable. As it turned out, the couple I sold the home to purchased all of the equipment at my fair market value asking price and just viewed it as getting "free" installation, setup and programming. And when we were leaving the house, my wife and I left them a nice gift basket of some wine, 3 DVDs, some microwave popcorn and a few movie-theater sized boxes of candy. We received a thank you card the next week saying that they ended up staying up until 3AM their first night in the house watching all three DVDs because they enjoyed it so much and this was from a couple who had never seen a front projection setup in a residential setting. I've even gotten a few calls from the guy in recent years asking about different upgrade paths for certain equipment, so it has been a nice connection. Ironically, I still haven't made it a point to go back and see it even though he has offered...although being 600 miles away from this house hasn't helped!



Just saw this. Excellent plan. I think if done right (like you) that buyers wanted a turn key theater room that this puts it over the top and can really influence the sale.


Bud


----------



## chinadog

Just realized we're coming up on a year of selling the house and I still don't have the new theater built. Slow progress. I hope the new folks are enjoying that theater!


Bud


----------



## chinadog

*WOW*. This thread hit a MILLION views just recently. Just noticed it. Still amazed it was so popular. And now I don't even have a theater (yet). Figures!


Bud


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## Mfusick

Congrats on 1,000,000 views. Here's a bump







for a few more. Lol


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## rdcollns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chinadog*  /t/549924/blazing-ridge-cinema-construction-has-begun/2730#post_8495748
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> Here's the plumbing under the bar with the studor vent:
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> And the dishwasher/faucet installed:
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> Bud



Are you still happy you went with the studor vent?


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## chinadog

We moved a couple of years ago, but it worked like a champ. No issues.


Bud


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