# Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread



## Vampyro

I think these glasses deserve their own thread...

Just hooked up my pair and I must say they not only are a lighter shade

but they add more pop to the 3D image.


I like how you can fine tune the image and essentially tune down ghosting as much as possible. I am using the glasses on a 63" Samsung Plasma from about 10 feet away and its obvious they work much better than the Samsung glasses that I received with MVA kit.


It seems like the samsung glasses were never really tuned into the signal as clearly as the monsters are. The 3d is much more in your face.


The major benefit from these glasses is that they never go out of sync! The samsung's would do this constantly and it drove me nuts. The tape cure never worked for me. Its nice to finally get the full 3D from this TV.

Please share your questions, opinions and reviews










Website Click Here


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## Hyabusha

Nice thread! These 3D glasses deserve alot more attention! I'll add my unboxing and mini review videos for all to see. I love theses 3D glasses!


Unboxing Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6tLLIwtrb8 


Mini review Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2CyRLfDNfc


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## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/20173982
> 
> 
> Nice thread! These 3D glasses deserve alot more attention! I'll add my unboxing and mini review videos for all to see. I love theses 3D glasses!
> 
> 
> Unboxing Video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6tLLIwtrb8
> 
> 
> Mini review Video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2CyRLfDNfc



Excellent work!!! I can speak for myself only but your videos helped make my decision, Thanks!


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## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/20174549
> 
> 
> Excellent work!!! I can speak for myself only but your videos helped make my decision, Thanks!



Glad I could help!


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## Vampyro

As far as the fine tuning is concerned...I noticed that my plasma can be tuned in 3 places on the led grid...1 1/2 dots (slow), 3 dots (faster)and a full 5 dots (fastest).

I am thinking the 5 dots (the quickest) resloves the blurriness the best.

Also a full 5 yellow dots for me looks best on the duty setting



Update: I think I spoke too soon concerning these glasses...I can fine tune 2 out of the 3 depths the TV is displaying but somehow cannot resolve the ghosting on a 3rd layer of the 3D. I noticed it on the bluray menu...If I fine tune the image I notice the back ground stuff is out of sync, vice versa when fine tuning the background...I have to use 3D viewpoint to adjust the other aspect (-4) right. At this point all looks well then I notice the flat layers are ghosted including the tv menu when i pull it up.


I am not sure if I had this problem before and the fact that you can manipulate the ghosting maybe has made me notice it but as of now these glasses are not resolving all the 3D layers on my Samsung 8000 63" Plasma. Ive tried all the settings and unless someone can enlighten me these glasses are going back.



Update #2: I exchanged for another pair and everything works!! I just got a bad pair


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## jim2011

I wanted to make sure it's still possible to use my samsung IR glasses at the same time as a single pair of Monster RF glasses. This is possible, right?


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## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim2011* /forum/post/20182770
> 
> 
> I wanted to make sure it's still possible to use my samsung IR glasses at the same time as a single pair of Monster RF glasses. This is possible, right?



From what I have read it is possible, but see my update above before ordering...We need other Samsung owners to chime in


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## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim2011* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wanted to make sure it's still possible to use my samsung IR glasses at the same time as a single pair of Monster RF glasses. This is possible, right?



Absolutely, I can use 4 Samsung IR glasses with my Monster Vision at the same time. Remember, the IR Is used to translate to RF needed for the Max3D glasses.


----------



## JR01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/20183922
> 
> 
> Absolutely, I can use 4 Samsung IR glasses with my Monster Vision at the same time. Remember, the IR Is used to translate to RF needed for the Max3D glasses.



Thanks for your reviews, comments etc. I'm still not clear on what I would need for my particular setup, of which I only have the TV at the moment.


1) My TV is a Mits 65833 (ie: pre-2010 model). I upgraded its firmware a few weeks ago, but not sure what it did as far as 3D is concerned.


2) I've preordered the Panny 310.


3) Glasses... nothing decided, but these Monster glasses are the ones I would like and about which I have questions.


I don't have a convertor kit, or any dlp glasses, or an IR emitter, and I don't expect to get any of these, as I would like to "go" RF all the way.


Questions:


1) Do I HAVE to have an IR emitter to get the Monsters to work?


2) Can I forget the IR emitter, and just connect the RF transmitter directly to the VESA port on the back of my TV?


3) Because I can't turn the DLP flash off on this model, does this adversely affect the Monster experience?


And 4) Of less concern, but do these glasses resolve the rainbow issue that others glasses cannot? Is it even that big a deal? I see a slight rainbow effect if I move my eyes suddenly on just normal 2D watching, and it's not that big of a deal for me.


Thanks to you or anyone who might be able to answer some of my questions.


JR01


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## Hyabusha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *JR01* 
Thanks for your reviews, comments etc. I'm still not clear on what I would need for my particular setup, of which I only have the TV at the moment.


1) My TV is a Mits 65833 (ie: pre-2010 model). I upgraded its firmware a few weeks ago, but not sure what it did as far as 3D is concerned.


2) I've preordered the Panny 310.


3) Glasses... nothing decided, but these Monster glasses are the ones I would like and about which I have questions.


I don't have a convertor kit, or any dlp glasses, or an IR emitter, and I don't expect to get any of these, as I would like to "go" RF all the way.


Questions:


1) Do I HAVE to have an IR emitter to get the Monsters to work?


2) Can I forget the IR emitter, and just connect the RF transmitter directly to the VESA port on the back of my TV?


3) Because I can't turn the DLP flash off on this model, does this adversely affect the Monster experience?


And 4) Of less concern, but do these glasses resolve the rainbow issue that others glasses cannot? Is it even that big a deal? I see a slight rainbow effect if I move my eyes suddenly on just normal 2D watching, and it's not that big of a deal for me.


Thanks to you or anyone who might be able to answer some of my questions.


JR01
You need the 3D converter kit. Unless you want to be stuck with checkerboard only 3D from your Panny BD.


For your TV, I'd stick with DLP link 3D glasses. Because you cant turn off the DLP Link flash from your tv. And It will cause the blacks to look greenish/teal color with any IR or RF based 3D glasses...


----------



## JR01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/20186555
> 
> 
> You need the 3D converter kit. Unless you want to be stuck with checkerboard only 3D from your Panny BD.
> 
> 
> For your TV, I'd stick with DLP link 3D glasses. Because you cant turn off the DLP Link flash from your tv. And It will cause the blacks to look greenish/teal color with any IR or RF based 3D glasses...



OK I was afraid about the black-black issues even with the RF. DLP link glasses seem to have a host of their own issues, particularly with sync. I might just be left with the CE4's as my best option though, as I understand they handle all the issues extremely well, except the one issue of my wallet!


I'm one of the few people in the USA now probably who doesn't have cable, dish, etc... just a trusty 'ole rooftop antenna. As such I'm counting on the Panny 310 to convert to checkerboard for me... and maybe by the time I decide (if ever) to go beyond my antenna, I can just either get the converter, or buy a new TV. I'm a few years away from making the change though.


But, thanks for your reply. I couldn't find any information anywhere about RF and the dlp flash.


JR01


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## jim2011

Thanks for the responses guys, I'll let you know how things turn out for me when I get the kit late this week/early next week. I was able to get it at the last second on ebay for 162 shipped. The loss of sync with samsung IR glasses has been tolerable but annoying for 3D movies. However, the loss of sync in 3D games is absolutely terrible, it happens way more often and almost makes me want to play in 2D.


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## Mikenificent1

I got mine yesterday. What source material are using to fine tune the duty cycle and delay? I did not hear buzzing on my unit (some had complained about that). Also if you have a blackberry charger with the newer smaller head, they charge the glasses really fast and don't need to use up a USB port.


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## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20187898
> 
> 
> I got mine yesterday. What source material are using to fine tune the duty cycle and delay? I did not hear buzzing on my unit (some had complained about that). Also if you have a blackberry charger with the newer smaller head, they charge the glasses really fast and don't need to use up a USB port.



Use a 3D bluray menu screen. You will be able to align the layers into one layer for a sharp 3d effect. I tried to this on my TV (read above) but it is not working completely. I agree no buzzing on the glasses and they do fit quite comfortably.


on side note: I have the Ultraclears on the way for comparison.


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## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/20191915
> 
> 
> Use a 3D bluray menu screen. You will be able to align the layers into one layer for a sharp 3d effect. I tried to this on my TV (read above) but it is not working completely. I agree no buzzing on the glasses and they do fit quite comfortably.
> 
> 
> on side note: I have the Ultraclears on the way for comparison.



Right now I only have Avatar, and I don't recall it having multiple layers int he menu, but I'll check again.


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## Mikenificent1

Has anyone been able to change the polarity of the glasses? I tried following the manual's directions, but the LED's didn't light up the way they say it is suppose to.


----------



## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20193781
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to change the polarity of the glasses? I tried following the manual's directions, but the LED's didn't light up the way they say it is suppose to.



I did...while in fine tuning mode just hold down and let go of the button to switch between the two...you can also adjust this from the menu of most TVs



has anyone tried to upgrade the firmware? I've tried and nothing happens.

The manual speaks of a utility but looks like it doesn't exist or they want you to work hard on finding it. Unless it is suppose to pop up when you plug the device into the PC, which it hasn't...also bad move on not having Mac support for firmware upgrades


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## Vampyro

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Vampyro* 
has anyone tried to upgrade the firmware? I've tried and nothing happens.

The manual speaks of a utility but looks like it doesn't exist or they want you to work hard on finding it. Unless it is suppose to pop up when you plug the device into the PC, which it hasn't...also bad move on not having Mac support for firmware upgrades










I am quoting and answering myself...hehe


I called Monster and you guys havent upgraded because there is no firmware upgrade...Guy on the phone said no one has called to complain

yet about the glasses, I guess I am the only one in the united states

that A) either got a bad set/kit or B) is not satisfied with the 3D picture.


I just got my Ultraclear 3D glasses and after 5 minutes with them I give them thumbs up especially for the price. They go out of sync but not as bad as the Samsung glasses. Also, Samsung glasses break easy because there is no frame on the bottom, happened twice to me. The ultraclears work better and are sturdier---easy decision if you are in the market.


I can try to exchange my Monster kit for another kit but at this point my patience is exhausted, I am better off getting two more pairs of the ultraclears for the same money but then again I am the only 3D watcher in my house.


So just for the record---Is there anyone with a Samsung Plasma and the Monstervision glasses? Is the 3D very good? Did I get a bad kit? because for me the Ultraclear 3D glasses work much better than the Monsters


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## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/20178453
> 
> 
> As far as the fine tuning is concerned...I noticed that my plasma can be tuned in 3 places on the led grid...1 1/2 dots (slow), 3 dots (faster)and a full 5 dots (fastest).
> 
> I am thinking the 5 dots (the quickest) resloves the blurriness the best.
> 
> Also a full 5 yellow dots for me looks best on the duty setting
> 
> 
> 
> Update: I think I spoke too soon concerning these glasses...I can fine tune 2 out of the 3 depths the TV is displaying but somehow cannot resolve the ghosting on a 3rd layer of the 3D. I noticed it on the bluray menu...If I fine tune the image I notice the back ground stuff is out of sync, vice versa when fine tuning the background...I have to use 3D viewpoint to adjust the other aspect (-4) right. At this point all looks well then I notice the flat layers are ghosted including the tv menu when i pull it up.
> 
> 
> I am not sure if I had this problem before and the fact that you can manipulate the ghosting maybe has made me notice it but as of now these glasses are not resolving all the 3D layers on my Samsung 8000 63" Plasma. Ive tried all the settings and unless someone can enlighten me these glasses are going back.



Are you saying witht he Ultraclears you are able to see all "3 layers" in focus without ghosting as noted above?


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## threed123

I went through the manual. Good news--lots of manual tuning options. Bad news--way too complicated for the average user. My guess is if you are not a confident technical video nerd, these will get returned more often than not. Just an opinion from what I've seen with other 3D stuff that requires tuning and tweaking for maximum performance. (Disclaimer--I do not own or have used these glasses.)


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## DerekUGA

So, from what I have read you guys are saying I have to have an IR emitter to plug the RF emitter into, and you also recommend getting the 3DA1 adapter for Mitz DLP's, right? Is the 3DA1 needed on the newer 738/838 models or will I be OK with just the IR & RF emitters?


----------



## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20205026
> 
> 
> Are you saying witht he Ultraclears you are able to see all "3 layers" in focus without ghosting as noted above?



Yes! The Ultraclears were much clearer! Like putting on glasses to drive and everthing is sharper, you are now able to read the signs on the road...but in all fairness I might have gotten a bad pair, I just dont have the patience to try another pair especially at that price point. The monsters are flawless when it comes to staying in sync, that is something I will miss...


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## eurotrance

I have 3 sets and none keep a charge, the charging process only lasts 5 minutes or less so they're not getting charged obviously...


Is anyone else having the same issue ?


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## DerekUGA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eurotrance* /forum/post/20213580
> 
> 
> I have 3 sets and none keep a charge, the charging process only lasts 5 minutes or less so they're not getting charged obviously...
> 
> 
> Is anyone else having the same issue ?



You should return them for new pairs. That's almost $500 in glasses, they should be willing to take care of you on that.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eurotrance* /forum/post/20213580
> 
> 
> I have 3 sets and none keep a charge, the charging process only lasts 5 minutes or less so they're not getting charged obviously...
> 
> 
> Is anyone else having the same issue ?



After you charge them for how long do they work after you turn them back on?


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## Vampyro

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DerekUGA* 
You should return them for new pairs. That's almost $500 in glasses, they should be willing to take care of you on that.
Monster customer service is decent. The rep I talked to said that they would exchange the set if the dealer didnt want to.You will have no problem getting replacements...


----------



## eurotrance




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/20214069
> 
> 
> After you charge them for how long do they work after you turn them back on?



I'm lucky to even get through one 2 hour movie. It's just not usable. What I don't get is how can 3 different pairs show the same exact problem ?


Let me ask you guys a question : when you charge the glasses, typically how long approximately does the LED blink for until it turns of, indicating that they're fully charged ?


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## jim2011

I thought I'd contribute my experience to this thread...


In short: I love Monster Vision Max 3D glasses, They're everything I hoped for


I have a Samsung 50C8000 and 7 pairs of Samsung 3D glasses. All of them lose sync, even with the tape trick. I may try calling samsung to have them replaced with newer glasses as supposedly they have gotten better with the later serial numbers.


All I wanted out of the Monster glasses were for them to not go out of sync and I'm happy to report, they haven't lost sync even for a single second out of the 10 hours I've used them so far. Previously, I had severe loss of sync problems with games such as Call of Duty Black Ops and especially Top Spin 4. No longer is that the case! I have not fine tuned the image at all, everything seemed fine right out of the box. As for 3 layers, I'm confused by that. The 3D effect looks the same on the Monster glasses as the Samsung glasses. I think the colors and brightness look better on the Monster glasses since they are clear as opposed to being tinted on the Samsung glasses.


If I use the warranty to get the Samsung glasses replaced and they still lose sync, I may consider buying extra Monster glasses. They are perfect imo. The other option is to just let the guests deal with occasional sync problems lol. I'll keep my perfectly working glasses to myself.


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eurotrance* /forum/post/20215658
> 
> 
> I'm lucky to even get through one 2 hour movie. It's just not usable. What I don't get is how can 3 different pairs show the same exact problem ?
> 
> 
> Let me ask you guys a question : when you charge the glasses, typically how long approximately does the LED blink for until it turns of, indicating that they're fully charged ?



I've used mine for almost 5 hours on one charge no problem and still going. I didn't charge mine by USB though. I used a blackberry charger and it fully charged in about 30-45 minutes.


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## suntrinity

Anybody know if monstervision work with samsung pn42b450 plasma? This 3D ready model does have a vesa port but no built in IR emitters or dlp links.


Thanks


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## walford

I don't see anything in the specs to indicate that this 2009 TV model is a 3D model and ahich has a Vesa port.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-PN42B4.../ref=de_a_smtd


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## suntrinity

Not sure about that amazon page.

But it is listed in the user manual (page 25)
samsung.com/us/support/downloads/PN42B450B1D 


Also here : 3dmovielist.com/3dhdtvs.html 


It was confirmed that nvidia 3d vision works with this model but no word about monstervision.


----------



## zombie10k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20218892
> 
> 
> I've used mine for almost 5 hours on one charge no problem and still going. I didn't charge mine by USB though. I used a blackberry charger and it fully charged in about 30-45 minutes.



good suggestion. I was originally having USB from the PC charging issues, it didn't see to last long at all. I decided to try and old blackberry charger I had laying around and it works great.


eurotrance - give this a shot when you get a chance.


----------



## eurotrance




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombie10k* /forum/post/20243242
> 
> 
> good suggestion. I was originally having USB from the PC charging issues, it didn't see to last long at all. I decided to try and old blackberry charger I had laying around and it works great.
> 
> 
> eurotrance - give this a shot when you get a chance.



Thanks guys, that did the trick!










I'm sure glad I don't have to get 3 pairs exchanged. Of course I was just closing one pair and the LCD lens broke after a plasticky click sound... I like the glasses but they're way too fragile IMO.


----------



## Elbert

Hi, guys

Long time member, but not as active lately. Been with Monster for 7 years and am the Product Area Manager for MAX3D if you have any further questions.


The Firmware update will be posted on the MAX3D micro site this week. Addresses the following issues:


1) Hunt and Seek sync improvement: If you are constantly moving the TX from one 3D TV to another, there is improved efficiency in adapting to the new TV's IR code. (In the past, it was sometimes necessary to perform a hard reset on the TX so that it can find a new TV)


2) Sharp TV 3D IR codes- The ones that Sharp ultimately deployed were not the ones they provided to us, unfortunately


3) Enhanced IR Decoding for Philips and Xpand compatible projectors


4) Improved signal detection for Samsung TVs for more flexible IR Sensor placement - Samsung's IR emitter port is the least friendly of all of the 3D Enabled tvs.



Updating the firmware is simple and painless.


Cheers


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## Mikenificent1

FYI per an engineer at Bit Cauldron, the glasses can handle a refresh rate anywhere from 30Hz to 120Hz per eye (i.e. total 60-240Hz). I haven't seen this info anywhere else.


----------



## Vampyro

Thanks for the update Elbert!

My Max3d worked poorly with my samsung 63 plasma (see my posts in this thread). I decided to give them another chance with a new pair. I will try tonight and report later. I wonder if i will get the same results until the firmware release.


----------



## Vampyro

Elbert,


Any hope of this being Mac compatible?

Im surprised that it wasn't out of the box.

I don't own a PC.


----------



## sydneycb

Hi I am new to 3D and am wondering do i need to buy the full kit or can i just buy the glasses? I picked up a samsung pnc7000 sorry this is probably a stupid question but just looking for some clarity. If i don't need the kit what are the advantages over just having the glasses?


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sydneycb* /forum/post/20308456
> 
> 
> Hi I am new to 3D and am wondering do i need to buy the full kit or can i just buy the glasses? I picked up a samsung pnc7000 sorry this is probably a stupid question but just looking for some clarity. If i don't need the kit what are the advantages over just having the glasses?



you need the kit for the first pair of glasses because it comes with the emitter which is necessary for the TV to be able to communicate with the glasses. Any additional glasses, you don't need the kit.


----------



## sydneycb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20308536
> 
> 
> you need the kit for the first pair of glasses because it comes with the emitter which is necessary for the TV to be able to communicate with the glasses. Any additional glasses, you don't need the kit.



OK great thanks, I was a little confused..


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## walford

The emitter is allready built into the lower left hand corner of the Bezel of the Samsung plasma as show on page 20 of it's user's maual part of which is quoted below.


"

This exciting new feature enables you to view

3D content. In order to fully enjoy this feature,

you must purchase a pair of Samsung 3D

Active Glasses (SSG-2100AB, SSG-2200AR,

SSG-2200KR) to view 3D video.

Samsung 3D Active Glasses are sold

separately. For more detailed purchasing

information, contact the retailer where you purchased this TV.

✎✎The LED on the 3D emitter blinks only when sending a

3D signal.

✎✎If there is any obstacle between the emitter and 3D

Active Glasses, the proper 3D effect may not occur

"


----------



## sydneycb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/20308737
> 
> 
> The emitter is allready built into the lower left hand corner of the Bezel of the Samsung plasma as show on page 20 of it's user's maual part of which is quoted below.
> 
> 
> "
> 
> This exciting new feature enables you to view
> 
> 3D content. In order to fully enjoy this feature,
> 
> you must purchase a pair of Samsung 3D
> 
> Active Glasses (SSG-2100AB, SSG-2200AR,
> 
> SSG-2200KR) to view 3D video.
> 
> Samsung 3D Active Glasses are sold
> 
> separately. For more detailed purchasing
> 
> information, contact the retailer where you purchased this TV.
> 
> ✎✎The LED on the 3D emitter blinks only when sending a
> 
> 3D signal.
> 
> ✎✎If there is any obstacle between the emitter and 3D
> 
> Active Glasses, the proper 3D effect may not occur
> 
> "



so does this mean i do not need a transmitter lol


----------



## Vampyro

I have a Samsung 8000 plasma.

You do need the kit for the Monster glasses. The Samsung emitter is an IR emitter. The Monster glasses will never get a signal from the TV in a million years lol.

The monster kit is used to pick up the IR signal from the Samsung and convert the signal to RF which the Monster glasses will accept.


----------



## sydneycb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/20310350
> 
> 
> I have a Samsung 8000 plasma.
> 
> You do need the kit for the Monster glasses. The Samsung emitter is an IR emitter. The Monster glasses will never get a signal from the TV in a million years lol.
> 
> The monster kit is used to pick up the IR signal from the Samsung and convert the signal to RF which the Monster glasses will accept.



Hahaha yea i called monster and they told me the exact thing, thanks though


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sydneycb* /forum/post/20308811
> 
> 
> so does this mean i do not need a transmitter lol



I am talking about the Samsung 3D IR emitter being built into the TV and not about any other emitter.


----------



## jbolt

I am thinking of picking a couple of pairs up. My only question is if these glasses appear any brighter than the stock JVC or Xpand X103 with a JVC 3D projector?


I wanted to wait for the Xpand Youniversal glasses, but they got pushed back to the 3rd quarter of this year.


----------



## Blue Rain

I have the mits 73738 which has Direct IR Format Selection and Independent IR Power ON / OFF. This TV doesn't need an adapter just software update.



Question 1- I know I need the Glasses kit but do I also need to buy another emitter to plug into my port ( Vesa 3 pin ) in back of the TV ?


Question 2- Will different IR glasses work with this setup ?


Thanks


----------



## walford

You need either DLP-Link glasses (then you don't need the adapter kit)


OR


An emitter to plug into the TV and glasses compatible with the emitter you obtain.


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/20323883
> 
> 
> You need either DLP-Link glasses (then you don't need the adapter kit)
> 
> 
> OR
> 
> 
> An emitter to plug into the TV and glasses compatible with the emitter you obtain.



Hi



I know I don't need the adapter










I thought The Monster glasses with kit would be all I need ..so I do have to buy another emitter ?


Where would I plug that into as the mits 73738 only has one vesa 3 pin port and the monster emitter (Ir/rf) would have to be plugged into that port.


So confused










I keep going back and forth between dlp and IR glasses but think I'm going to get IR glasses ..more pro's V cons for my taste.


----------



## Blue Rain

OK I do need an emitter..I thought the monster kit included an emitter

but it's just a converter to RF and has it's own power cord for outlet.


Seriously..the electronic industry should be flogged for all the turmoil

they have caused us. And I pretty much know my stuff..imagine the average jane or joe










Thats alright I'll be good for years screw them !


----------



## jsc1205

Just tried the firmware update and got to the last step of removing the USB from the computer, plugged it back into the USB of the back of my tv ......and then nothing. No lights came on the transmitter or anything! Doesn't even turn on. Tried to reconnect to the computer it it doesn't recognize it now. Thought that it needed to update the glasses as the instructions say.......no go there either. Called Monster and the guy was stumped so he has to call a tech and call me tomorrow.

Has anyone did the update? Am I missing something here???


Please advise


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## space2001

anyone know when these are coming to Canada


----------



## knobby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *space2001* /forum/post/20330283
> 
> 
> anyone know when these are coming to Canada



i emailed monster and they didn't give a date but said they would be distributed through future shop and best buy.things sure are messed up here in canada.i am running out of patience with this 3d.it seems it is not user friendly for us in canada.


----------



## space2001

Canadians always get screwed


----------



## knobby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *space2001* /forum/post/20332008
> 
> 
> Canadians always get screwed



if you find them available let me know and i will do likewise.thanks.


----------



## space2001




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *knobby* /forum/post/20332204
> 
> 
> if you find them available let me know and i will do likewise.thanks.



for sure


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Rain* /forum/post/20324119
> 
> 
> OK I do need an emitter..I thought the monster kit included an emitter
> 
> but it's just a converter to RF and has it's own power cord for outlet.
> 
> 
> Seriously..the electronic industry should be flogged for all the turmoil
> 
> they have caused us. And I pretty much know my stuff..imagine the average jane or joe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats alright I'll be good for years screw them !



If your TV/Projector has a Vesa 3D port on the back, you don't need an extra emitter, the kit comes with one that you plug directly into that port.


----------



## audionewer

does this glasses compatible with nvidia 3d version or not?


----------



## Headhunter81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If your TV/Projector has a Vesa 3D port on the back, you don't need an extra emitter, the kit comes with one that you plug directly into that port.



So, even though the port is supposed to be for an IR emitter, the monster vision rf adaptor will work??


I've got the same situation as a previous poster. Mits WD-73838 with no 3D "stuff" yet. I was hoping the device could be plugged directly into my tv without having to buy an IR adaptor.


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20337314
> 
> 
> If your TV/Projector has a Vesa 3D port on the back, you don't need an extra emitter, the kit comes with one that you plug directly into that port.



Ok I'm currently using dlp glasses which don't need anything to watch 3d with my mits 73738 because it just links up.


I don't want to use active dlp glasses anymore.


I want the Monster glasses because their glasses are the clear with the least green tint.



Yes I have a vesa port but I don't own an emitter and an emitter is needed for

RF glasses with the mits TV.


Now just to be sure before I buy the monster glasses...


So you are saying if I want to go the RF route using the monster glasses

that all I need is the monster kit *which includes the emitter* and ir converter to RF ?


I only ask because because a member here on AVS has posted a video on youtube showing an emitter and the IR converter to RF for his monster setup and I don't see both items in Monsters Kit.


Thats why I'm thinking he had to buy an emitter for the monster kit.


Thanks


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Headhunter81* /forum/post/20395010
> 
> 
> So, even though the port is supposed to be for an IR emitter, the monster vision rf adaptor will work??
> 
> 
> I've got the same situation as a previous poster. Mits WD-73838 with no 3D "stuff" yet. I was hoping the device could be plugged directly into my tv without having to buy an IR adaptor.



You can buy cheap ultraclears glasses for $49 (This is what I'm cureently using)and you wouldn't need anything else because your model and mine is ready to go for 3d if all you want is dlp link glasses.


If you want RF glasses we would need to buy an emitter to plug into the vesa port in the back to go with RF glasses.


What I'm looking to find out is does the monster RF kit also come with an emitter.


----------



## Hyabusha

The monster kit does not include the IR emitter. Only the RF emitter.


----------



## Headhunter81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Rain* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy cheap ultraclears glasses for $49 (This is what I'm cureently using)and you wouldn't need anything else because your model and mine is ready to go for 3d if all you want is dlp link glasses.
> 
> 
> If you want RF glasses we would need to buy an emitter to plug into the vesa port in the back to go with RF glasses.
> 
> 
> What I'm looking to find out is does the monster RF kit also come with an emitter.



Yeah, haven't heard great things about dlp link which is why I'm interested in IR or RF. Can the RF emitter be plugged into the port on the Mits?


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Headhunter81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, haven't heard great things about dlp link which is why I'm interested in IR or RF. Can the RF emitter be plugged into the port on the Mits?



Yes.


----------



## wolfyncsu7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Headhunter81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, haven't heard great things about dlp link which is why I'm interested in IR or RF. Can the RF emitter be plugged into the port on the Mits?



I'm also curious if the Monstervision RF emitter can be plugged into the VESA port on the Optoma 3d-xl converter. Anybody know?


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wolfyncsu7* /forum/post/20415593
> 
> 
> I'm also curious if the Monstervision RF emitter can be plugged into the VESA port on the Optoma 3d-xl converter. Anybody know?



I don't know but if the optoma vesa port is a 3 din vesa port then it should.


Take a close up look of the optoma port and then a close up look at the monster port and see if they match up.


You can go to monster's site and optoma websites and zoom in on the ports.


Goodluck and post back what you find ...it will help other people who might

want to do the same thing..


Thanks


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/20413783
> 
> 
> The monster kit does not include the IR emitter. Only the RF emitter.



Thanks..I had a feeling it didn't come with the emitter.


Need to find a cheap ir emitter


From what I understand the RF emitter is taking the IR signal and converting it to RF for the RF glasses.


So if I have an IR and RF emitter but only one vesa 3 din port how do I set it up ?


----------



## Blue Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/20413783
> 
> 
> The monster kit does not include the IR emitter. Only the RF emitter.



Hi


Hyabusha


I have viewed your youtube video review of the Monster RF glasses and the part that interest me the most is the tint when you compare them to the

samsung/Mits glasses starting at the 4 minute mark. Great job with

showing the difference in the tint between the glasses.


I have the ultra clear glasses which work just fine but somewhat uncomfortable with prescription glasses but the thing that bothers me the most about them is the green tint..It really bothers me.


I was wondering if you have any ultra clear glasses that you could compare with the Monster glasses tint.


I'm ready to buy the monster kit but need to know if the green tint is less than my ultra clear glasses.


I don't want to spend this kind of money on the monster kit plus more $ on an emitter if the tint is the same as my ultra clear glasses.


This green tint drives me crazy more than anything else.


Thanks for your time and thanks for the video review..really appreciate it.


----------



## dserensits

Do you need a ir to rf adapter to use these glasses with a 3D adapter like the 3D-xl or VIP theatre?


----------



## uliving




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Rain* /forum/post/20418250
> 
> 
> Thanks..I had a feeling it didn't come with the emitter.
> 
> 
> Need to find a cheap ir emitter
> 
> 
> From what I understand the RF emitter is taking the IR signal and converting it to RF for the RF glasses.
> 
> 
> So if I have an IR and RF emitter but only one vesa 3 din port how do I set it up ?



The Monstervision uses the same port as the IR emitter and you don't need to have an IR emitter when using Monstervision 3D glasses. The "Kit" comes with everything you need to see 3D.


----------



## uliving




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Headhunter81* /forum/post/20395010
> 
> 
> So, even though the port is supposed to be for an IR emitter, the monster vision rf adaptor will work??
> 
> 
> I've got the same situation as a previous poster. Mits WD-73838 with no 3D "stuff" yet. I was hoping the device could be plugged directly into my tv without having to buy an IR adaptor.



I just purchased the 82738 and the monster glasses a few days ago.


the answer is YES.


You do not need to buy an IR emitter. The Monster uses the same port.


If you already have IR glasses and an IR emitter and only ONE port and you want to switch between IR and RF, I guess you'd have to continually unplug the Monster RF emitter cabling and then plug in the IR emitter and vis versa.


----------



## uliving

The only other thing to mention is that if you want to go with the Monster RF Glasses, you have to make sure and buy the "Kit".


The Kit sells for $250 and includes 1 pair of 3d Glasses and the RF emitter and USB charging cable (everything you need to see 3D on a Mits TV that has the standard IR Emitter port).


They also sell the 3D glasses individually for $150 which don't come with anything but the glasses and a USB charging cable


----------



## bryangreen

Mitsubishi 738 series owner chiming in (updated fimware)



I am 100% pleased with the monster vision glasses. I do not have the Mitsu converter box and these glasses work in every mode.. Side by Side / Top to Bottom / checkerboard. I currently have comcast and had a few problems with the ESPN 3D (setting the cable box to 720p resolution) but figured it out after 3 hours of trying every combination possible =) They may be pricey but the no battery changing / able to goto Bestbuy and impulse buy is great!! LOL.. also the glasses tint is very nice.




One tip for you Mitsubishi owners that haven't gone 3d yet... Make sure you delete all your input tags in your tv menu settings before you hook up the monster RF transmitter. Let the tv learn all the HDMI over again then switch over to the Desired 3D format you wish to use. It will save you plenty of troubleshooting / hairpulling =) If you do not reset or switch the HDMI input to the tv the trasmitter may not (WILL NOT) detect the 3d signal and make you wonder about buying the Mistu converter box




Now for a question.. How many of you manually adjusted the transmitter? I was reading the full owners manual online and there are so many adjustments. which one's have you guys spent the most time on?



Thanks



Bryan


----------



## Brian Hampton

Hey,


3D VIP sells the same glasses and emitter for less. As an added bonus, they don't say MONSTER on them.


You can get a kit with glasses and emitter for $199 or just a pair of the glasses for $129.


If you like paying more for Monster then that's still and always will be an option.

http://www.consignia.ca/products/VIP...asses-Kit.html 



=Brian


----------



## Headhunter81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bryangreen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi 738 series owner chiming in (updated fimware)
> 
> 
> I am 100% pleased with the monster vision glasses. I do not have the Mitsu converter box and these glasses work in every mode.. Side by Side / Top to Bottom / checkerboard. I currently have comcast and had a few problems with the ESPN 3D (setting the cable box to 720p resolution) but figured it out after 3 hours of trying every combination possible =) They may be pricey but the no battery changing / able to goto Bestbuy and impulse buy is great!! LOL.. also the glasses tint is very nice.
> 
> 
> One tip for you Mitsubishi owners that haven't gone 3d yet... Make sure you delete all your input tags in your tv menu settings before you hook up the monster RF transmitter. Let the tv learn all the HDMI over again then switch over to the Desired 3D format you wish to use. It will save you plenty of troubleshooting / hairpulling =) If you do not reset or switch the HDMI input to the tv the trasmitter may not (WILL NOT) detect the 3d signal and make you wonder about buying the Mistu converter box
> 
> 
> Now for a question.. How many of you manually adjusted the transmitter? I was reading the full owners manual online and there are so many adjustments. which one's have you guys spent the most time on?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Bryan



Great info!! Leaning more and more towards these every day.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* /forum/post/20449279
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> 
> 3D VIP sells the same glasses and emitter for less. As an added bonus, they don't say MONSTER on them.
> 
> 
> You can get a kit with glasses and emitter for $199 or just a pair of the glasses for $129.
> 
> 
> If you like paying more for Monster then that's still and always will be an option.
> 
> http://www.consignia.ca/products/VIP...asses-Kit.html
> 
> 
> 
> =Brian



You do not get the IR receiver with the VIP kit!


----------



## Brian Hampton

Ok. I would not want or need the ir receiver but that's a good point.


The extra glasses are still cheaper.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* /forum/post/20449770
> 
> 
> Ok. I would not want or need the ir receiver but that's a good point.
> 
> 
> The extra glasses are still cheaper.



True! They might not sell any unless you buy a VIP product. At least for a while because they have very low stock right now and haven't filled all the orders for the VIP converters yet. You may wait for weeks before you get glasses. I am still waiting for mine and I ordered April 7th.


----------



## yunti




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audionewer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does this glasses compatible with nvidia 3d version or not?



I'm guessing that the adaptor that comes with the glasses that coverts from ir to rf could work on the nvidia ir emiitter but would be good if someone could confirm


Actually there seems to be a lot of confusion whether the glasses kit comes with:


A Vesa 3 pin rf transmitter


And an ir to rf transmitter?


----------



## bryangreen

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* 
Hey,


3D VIP sells the same glasses and emitter for less. As an added bonus, they don't say MONSTER on them.


You can get a kit with glasses and emitter for $199 or just a pair of the glasses for $129.


If you like paying more for Monster then that's still and always will be an option.

http://www.consignia.ca/products/VIP...asses-Kit.html 



=Brian
Brian,

Thanks on the info about the vip's. I have two pair at the moment and when I want to get more I will save the dough and order online. I'm old school and still like to buy from the local stores so I can return and or try something else.


Have you made any adjustments yet? I havent really messed with the joystick adjustments or went thru my pc have you?


Thanks


Bryan


----------



## mac4lyfe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yunti* /forum/post/20453103
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that the adaptor that comes with the glasses that coverts from *ir to rf could work on the nvidia ir emiitter but would be good if someone could confirm*
> 
> 
> Actually there seems to be a lot of confusion whether the glasses kit comes with:
> 
> *A Vesa 3 pin rf transmitter
> 
> 
> And an ir to rf transmitter*?



The Monster adaptor converts IR to RF but unfortunately it doesn't work with the Nvidia IR emitter. Maybe they will patch it one day with a firmware update but no go for now.


The kit came with a vesa 3 pin cable to hook into the transmitter. It also has an IR to RF transmitter where you place it near an IR emitter (not included).


The one thing I don't like about the glasses is the power on button. It doesn't even feel like a button. It's very hard to cut on with my big thumbs.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Rain* /forum/post/20418438
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Hyabusha
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering if you have any ultra clear glasses that you could compare with the Monster glasses tint.
> 
> 
> This green tint drives me crazy more than anything else.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time and thanks for the video review..really appreciate it.




Hey Blue, I don't have the Ultra clear to compare, but from what I've read they have the same tint as the samsung/mits glasses.


----------



## yunti

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mac4lyfe*
The Monster adaptor converts IR to RF but unfortunately it doesn't work with the Nvidia IR emitter. Maybe they will patch it one day with a firmware update but no go for now.


The kit came with a vesa 3 pin cable to hook into the transmitter. It also has an IR to RF transmitter where you place it near an IR emitter (not included).


The one thing I don't like about the glasses is the power on button. It doesn't even feel like a button. It's very hard to cut on with my big thumbs.
Thanks that's a big help I was just about to order these. Little point if they don't work with nvidia emitter. Real shame. Who is the actual manufacturer of these as I presume monster and VIP just license them from someone else? That way I can try and get support added.


Thanks.


----------



## SgtVideo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yunti* 
Thanks that's a big help I was just about to order these. Little point if they don't work with nvidia emitter. Real shame. Who is the actual manufacturer of these as I presume monster and VIP just license them from someone else? That way I can try and get support added.


Thanks.
I believe it is Bit Cauldron, see their BC5000 model.


----------



## Blah_Jones

Hello All,


Great thread and thanks for all the info. I live in south oc and I'm looking for a retail chain that I can buy these at. I want to get them at a tail chain so I can return them if I don't like them. I called best buy and they said they didn't carry these glasses.



Edit: I found out my local fry's had them and I just went and picked them up. I will try them out tonight. Lets see if I can get my ps3 to output 3d to my mitsu wd-65838. Thanks again for all the help in this thread.


----------



## HighVoltage

I didnt see this brought up here yet, so how is the fit as compared to the samsung and panny glasses? Ive only tried the medium panansonics for reference...


----------



## uliving

WOW....these Monster glasses are great !!!


Expensive, yes....but, great.


I've got three pair and will end up getting more when the budget frees up a bit.


Fit is substantially better than the Samsung/Mits, ROCK SOLID connection with RF, fantastic 3D, super comfortable, RECHARGEABLE, hold a charge for at least 40 hours, fits over regular glasses with ease....and, THEY TURN THEMSELVES off automatically !!


Just plug the transmitter in to the IR connection (at least on my Mits) and they just work instantly.


I'm NOT a fan of Monster products and I don't normally buy any of their products, they always seem overpriced for the quality of what you get.


But, not in this case.


I couldn't be happier with them.


I use them with a Mits 82738 and they work perfectly.


No comparison to IR or DLP connection and much better made and more comfortable than the samsung/mits glasses.


----------



## wildchild22

If anyone wants to sell me the ir receiver for the newer tv's please pm me . I need it for my samsung. A lot of the older tv owners only need the vesa module.


----------



## Ronomy

Read something in Widescreen Review that they (bit Cauldron) are working on a fix for JVC LCOS projectors so that the MAX 3D glasses polarization doesn't block as much light using the new JVC 3D projectors. Has anybody heard any news if they have fixed it? The article said they were looking to see if it could be fixed with a firmware change.


----------



## zombie10k

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Ronomy* 
Read something in Widescreen Review that they (bit Cauldron) are working on a fix for JVC LCOS projectors so that the MAX 3D glasses polarization doesn't block as much light using the new JVC 3D projectors. Has anybody heard any news if they have fixed it? The article said they were looking to see if it could be fixed with a firmware change.
that would be interested to hear about. I use them on my RS50 to compare to the Xpand 103's and I prefer the tint color on the 3D vision glasses although they are very fragile compared to the Xpand's imo.


My 2.8HP screen retains no polarization so this won't affect me, but hopefully helps others get away from the expensive JVC branded glasses.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/20533782
> 
> 
> Read something in Widescreen Review that they (bit Cauldron) are working on a fix for JVC LCOS projectors so that the MAX 3D glasses polarization doesn't block as much light using the new JVC 3D projectors. Has anybody heard any news if they have fixed it? The article said they were looking to see if it could be fixed with a firmware change.



Bit Cauldron responded to my email and told me to adjust the duty cycle for a brighter image. So either they responded with a standard response for everyone with brightness issues because the person on the other end has no clue or they really are not working on it or both.










Maybe they just told Widescreen Review what they wanted to hear.


----------



## lee-1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1* /forum/post/20193781
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to change the polarity of the glasses? I tried following the manual's directions, but the LED's didn't light up the way they say it is suppose to.



hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.


----------



## clpsenior

From what I can understand, you can use regular ir glasses at the same time as using the if glasses since both signals are available. Does the ir emitter in the Monster kit work with many other glasses? I heard it worked with the Samsungs, but what about something less expensive (my wife hates the idea of one of our grandkids breaking a $130 pair of glasses). I was thinking of adding a few pair of the $40-50 options.


Another option is to get the 3DTV G2 and use it as the emitter with the Monsters. Possible?


I'll be using a Mits 73738/Sony BDP 570


----------



## clpsenior

I guess I can use any emitter, so the smartest thing to do is get one compatible with the "guest" glasses I plan to buy.


----------



## Brian Hampton

I just read through the thread and noticed someone looking for a cheap IR emitter.


My local Sears and Best Buy has the Sony IR emitter on sale for $49. I'm not sure about it's compatibility but it's a cheap IR emitter that I've seen around.


-Brian


----------



## 98EXL

Anyone know where to stick the IR end on a VT30?


----------



## rougebear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lee-1* /forum/post/20540881
> 
> 
> hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.



I have the JVC X3 projector and turned the glasses upside down and the picture had tons more depth so my polarity was not correct. I was having the same issue as you with only getting the red and orange lights until I finally was able to to see the 2 red lights for standard and 3 red lights for reverse polarity. I found that lightly pressing straight down and releasing quickly I was able to get the polarity switched. I now have the transmitter switched to the three red lights and everything is so much better.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lee-1* /forum/post/20540881
> 
> 
> hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.



Try this alternate method for polarity change:


This technique allows you to change polarity using "Duty Cycle".


You can change the polarity via the Dongle on the transmitter. When you are in the Duty Cycle (UP & DOWN red lights)... imagine that the five lights are split in two equal halves of L and R. When you go left of the 2.5 settings with the RED lights, you are now configuring a different polarity than if you are extending the red lights to the right beyond the middle point.


Remember you are working with RED lights that change with UP and DOWN movement on the dongle!





L C R


Depending on where you find your best picture setting, you can always find the same setting either to the left of the centre or the right of the centre (c) with the correct polarity. This is the easist and the fastest way to change the polarity without having to go through the utility or without having to find the Midas touch on the dongle to get the centre push right.


----------



## Brian Hampton

Hi,


I got the RF Glasses from VIP which are the same glasses as the Monster Vision Max 3D. (Both are branded Bit Cauldrin glasses.)


The above post about changing the polarity made zero sense to me the first 8 times I read it but once you "get" it... it's the way to go. It helped me understand the manual adjustments.


-Brian


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20581100
> 
> 
> Try this alternate method for polarity change:
> 
> 
> This technique allows you to change polarity using "Duty Cycle".
> 
> 
> You can change the polarity via the Dongle on the transmitter. When you are in the Duty Cycle (UP & DOWN red lights)... imagine that the five lights are split in two equal halves of L and R. When you go left of the 2.5 settings with the RED lights, you are now configuring a different polarity than if you are extending the red lights to the right beyond the middle point.
> 
> 
> Remember you are working with RED lights that change with UP and DOWN movement on the dongle!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> L C R
> 
> 
> Depending on where you find your best picture setting, you can always find the same setting either to the left of the centre or the right of the centre (c) with the correct polarity. This is the easist and the fastest way to change the polarity without having to go through the utility or without having to find the “Midas touch” on the dongle to get the centre push right.



The delay setting will change polarity not the duty cycle. Duty cycle reduces the amout of time the shutters stay open.


----------



## Brian Hampton

I'm still learning but the delay seems to be the most important adjustment in my setup. I can reduce the duty cycle a bit and then tune out the ghosting using the delay.


If the resulting delay only flips in polarity then I think I'm going to learn how to adjust the polarity so I don't have to tune each time.


(I have noticed the polarity does need to be changed from one 3D Blu to another.)


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/20588031
> 
> 
> The delay setting will change polarity not the duty cycle. Duty cycle reduces the amout of time the shutters stay open.



I'm just posting the instructions sent from VIP. If that's wrong we will let them know.


I haven't seen a polarity problem with any of the content I've viewed as yet.

I'm wondering if some of the video settings folks use in their AVRs are somehow reversing polarity. Or, are there settings in projectors that can invert signals that can be adjusted.


I tried to force a polarity change using the press down dongle movement, but I guess you have to be a surgeon to find the spot that works.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20588845
> 
> 
> I tried to force a polarity change using the press down dongle movement, but I guess you have to be a surgeon to find the spot that works.



Its hard to get it to work plus you end up screwing up delay and duty cycle in the process.


The PC utility is the best way to adjust the glasses.


I haven't seen many polarity shifts. I did once with my PS3. Stop and restart worked.


----------



## Brian Hampton

PC utility sounds nice.


Will try to find that.


-Brian


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* /forum/post/20589601
> 
> 
> PC utility sounds nice.
> 
> 
> Will try to find that.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Not home right now but can send it to you tonight. VIP can send it too. Email Jonathan.


----------



## zombie10k

Do you guys know if there is a way to use the 3D Vision glasses with the Acer 5360 3D DLP? I use an HTPC with PDVD10 and TMT5 for 3D on the Acer (using the Nvidia IR/Glasses set up) and also the JVC RS50 using the same software, but have the RF transmitter hooked up to the 3 Pin vesa port on the JVC.


It would be nice to use the glasses with the HTPC since the Monster vision setup has a USB port on the RF tranmitter. Perhaps some drivers that would eliminate the Nvidia setup.


Ronomy - if you could post the USB software, please let us know. I'd rather adjust the settings from the PC. thanks!


----------



## walford

AFAIK the Nvidia emitter will only work if connected to a PC and it is then enabled by the Nvidia software.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombie10k* /forum/post/20596006
> 
> 
> Do you guys know if there is a way to use the 3D Vision glasses with the Acer 5360 3D DLP? I use an HTPC with PDVD10 and TMT5 for 3D on the Acer (using the Nvidia IR/Glasses set up) and also the JVC RS50 using the same software, but have the RF transmitter hooked up to the 3 Pin vesa port on the JVC.
> 
> 
> It would be nice to use the glasses with the HTPC since the Monster vision setup has a USB port on the RF tranmitter. Perhaps some drivers that would eliminate the Nvidia setup.
> 
> 
> Ronomy - if you could post the USB software, please let us know. I'd rather adjust the settings from the PC. thanks!



The only problem with the PC software was for me it wouldn't tell me my current settings from using the dongle. I could make adjustments but you couldn't see what they look like in real time because you have to unplug the transmitter and put it back into the system every time.


When I plugged it in and ran the utility it gave me the firmware version and but indicated all my settings were set at zero. I had 1.5 LEDS of delay and 2.5 LEDS for duty cycle but it could not extract those settings.


So basically from what I've seen you can only use the sliders to set the adjustments but you have to already know what those numbers are before saving them to the device.


The lense phase shift button did help one user get his stubborn phase shift problem resolved.


The other function in the software gives us firmware updating whenever that is ever made available.


Other than that you're better off using the dongle. There is no method of saving multiple settings as a file and reloading them into the transmitter.


If the audience has discovered that please let me know because I sure don't see it.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20597673
> 
> 
> The only problem with the PC software was for me it wouldn't tell me my current settings from using the dongle. I could make adjustments but you couldn't see what they look like in real time because you have to unplug the transmitter and put it back into the system every time.
> 
> 
> When I plugged it in and ran the utility it gave me the firmware version and but indicated all my settings were set at zero. I had 1.5 LEDS of delay and 2.5 LEDS for duty cycle but it could not extract those settings.
> 
> 
> So basically from what I've seen you can only use the sliders to set the adjustments but you have to already know what those numbers are before saving them to the device.
> 
> 
> The lense phase shift button did help one user get his stubborn phase shift problem resolved.
> 
> 
> The other function in the software gives us firmware updating whenever that is ever made available.
> 
> 
> Other than that you're better off using the dongle. There is no method of saving multiple settings as a file and reloading them into the transmitter.
> 
> 
> If the audience has discovered that please let me know because I sure don't see it.



With my PC I get feed back from the emitter which tells me what the settings are. If I want to update the screen to see what they are set to on the emitter I close the PC utility and reload it. Reads the saved settings every time.


I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. However that seems to work the best with a DLP projector. If I try lowering it to 100% I see some color shifting when i tilt my head from the screen. If I lower it even more like 95% the colors begin to screw up. Skin tone turns orange in some scenes. The default delay and duty cycle are perfect setting for a DLP projector. I suppose lowering duty cycle you start reducing one of the colors from the color wheel which is in sync with the frame rate. Thus the colors start to shift because we are blocking part of one color. So don't change duty cycle with a DLP projector. Leave it at 105%.


I have not had to touch delay either. Factory reset and all is perfect. Although I did have to change polarity.


Ron


----------



## mkoss

What Romony saws from what I have seen is true. Phase is the only issue with DLP 120 Hz. The IR glasses except for line of sight issues worked fine with the Acer with only polarity having to be changed.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/20597910
> 
> 
> With my PC I get feed back from the emitter which tells me what the settings are. If I want to update the screen to see what they are set to on the emitter I close the PC utility and reload it. Reads the saved settings every time.
> 
> 
> I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. However that seems to work the best with a DLP projector. If I try lowering it to 100% I see some color shifting when i tilt my head from the screen. If I lower it even more like 95% the colors begin to screw up. Skin tone turns orange in some scenes. The default delay and duty cycle are perfect setting for a DLP projector. I suppose lowering duty cycle you start reducing one of the colors from the color wheel which is in sync with the frame rate. Thus the colors start to shift because we are blocking part of one color. So don't change duty cycle with a DLP projector. Leave it at 105%.
> 
> 
> I have not had to touch delay either. Factory reset and all is perfect. Although I did have to change polarity.
> 
> 
> Ron



"I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. "


No, I don't remember indicating that. If for example I'm satisfied using the dongle with 1.5LED Delay and 2.5LED Duty Cycle. When I remove the transmitter and read the stored settings with the Utility, it reports that both my settings are "zero", which I know is incorrect.


Unfortunately I am shipping my transmitter back to VIP for testing, as I believe it has developed frequency shift for lack of a better term.


When trying to watch Resident Evil, made acceptable adjustments, after watching about 3 minutes all facial tones and background began color shifting.

The whole movie turned into a 3D anaglyph comic book appearance.


Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.


So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.


The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.


If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.


It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20601681
> 
> 
> "I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. "
> 
> 
> No, I don't remember indicating that. If for example I'm satisfied using the dongle with 1.5LED Delay and 2.5LED Duty Cycle. When I remove the transmitter and read the stored settings with the Utility, it reports that both my settings are "zero", which I know is incorrect.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I am shipping my transmitter back to VIP for testing, as I believe it has developed frequency shift for lack of a better term.
> 
> 
> When trying to watch Resident Evil, made acceptable adjustments, after watching about 3 minutes all facial tones and background began color shifting.
> 
> The whole movie turned into a 3D anaglyph comic book appearance.
> 
> 
> Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.
> 
> 
> So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.
> 
> 
> The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.
> 
> 
> If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.
> 
> 
> It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.



I had some wierd things happen with my 60Hz displays but with my DLP 3D ready its perfect. No problems with the emitter or glasses I have.


With a DLP duty cycle needs to be 100%-105% like the factory default or else you get wierd color shifting.


I also had wierd color shifting with my Sony XBR6 32 inch TV. My RS1 projector didn't have color issues but drifted in and out of sync with the glasses.


I questioned the emitter and glasses myself until I got the 3D ready DLP projector. Now it is rock solid!


I think you might have a problem with your emitter though. You should be able to see what the emitter is set to when you load the utility software on the PC.


I did get one emtter early on that was dead out of the box. Would not turn on.


Ron


----------



## HokeySmoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20601681
> 
> 
> Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.
> 
> 
> So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.
> 
> 
> The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.
> 
> 
> If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.
> 
> 
> It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.



Have you paired the glasses to the transmitter? If not, there could be another ZigBee device (even another transmitter) somewhere nearby that could be conflicting with the transmitter.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20601681
> 
> 
> It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.



I doubt this is the case, but I wonder if the Monster-branded items are cherry-picked or receive more stringent QC before shipping, either at BitCauldron or at Monster.


HokeySmoke made a good point about glasses pairing. Perhaps it'll help.


----------



## Brian Hampton

I am very glad I don't have the battery problems with my BC glasses (branded VIP)


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HokeySmoke* /forum/post/20602620
> 
> 
> Have you paired the glasses to the transmitter? If not, there could be another ZigBee device (even another transmitter) somewhere nearby that could be conflicting with the transmitter.



+1


This capability is outline in the manual, but not advertised loudly, & hasn't been needed by users in this forum yet. Certainly worth a try.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebard* /forum/post/20603122
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> This capability is outline in the manual, but not advertised loudly, & hasn't been needed by users in this forum yet. Certainly worth a try.



I can certainly retry it again.


They default to the original transmitter unless a new transmitter is added then repairing is necessary.

They can operate in unpaired mode when visiting another users home.


My older functional glasses have been paired all along and they exhibit the same random color distortions.


But alas, just remembered my transmitter is out of town to VIP and when the replacement comes repairing will be required.


----------



## wardhealer

After performing a firmware update on the transmitter, it is stuck with only the center red light on. When I plug it back into the vesa port on my MITS 60738, noting happens...no lights, even when the TV is put into 3D mode. I tried the procedure for returning the transmitter to factory defaults but still no lights. I plugged the transmitter back into the PC but WinXP kept giving the message that the USB device not recognized. I plugged the transmitter in again, this time with the toggle pushed down and to the left. The transmitter responded by displaying a single red light in the center. I tried the update procedure again but got a failure message. I tried again with the button held down and to the left and the message said the update was successful, but I'm still back to square one with the transmitter displaying only a single red light. Plugged into the TV it displays no light until I press the toggle button. Then it displays that single red light only and the 3D does not work.

------------

I apologize for over describing the situation. If I understood the situation better, perhaps I could have described the problem in a simpler, more concise manner.

---------------

Can anyone help me? Please.


----------



## Mounta1n

Can you reverse the sync on these glasses so that they can be used at the same time as DLP link glasses? Regular IR glasses tend to use the reversed sync from DLP. I figured perhaps the Monster RF adapter has a switch to reverse the sync. Samsung 67A750 DLP.


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* 
Can you reverse the sync on these glasses so that they can be used at the same time as DLP link glasses? Regular IR glasses tend to use the reversed sync from DLP. I figured perhaps the Monster RF adapter has a switch to reverse the sync. Samsung 67A750 DLP.
Yes. Although the procedure to reverse sync at the transmitter by pushing down on the joystick control is a PITA, it can be done. Easier is by connecting the transmitter to a PC or laptop via USB and using the Monster PC utility to reverse sync simply by clicking on a radio button then saving the setting. I have VIP's RF glasses which are rebadged Bit Cauldron glasses-as are the Monster 3D ones-and the procedure is the same for both.


----------



## Mounta1n

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* 
Yes. Although the procedure to reverse sync at the transmitter by pushing down on the joystick control is a PITA, it can be done. Easier is by connecting the transmitter to a PC or laptop via USB and using the Monster PC utility to reverse sync simply by clicking on a radio button then saving the setting. I have VIP's RF glasses which are rebadged Bit Cauldron glasses-as are the Monster 3D ones-and the procedure is the same for both.
Cool. The monster glasses are currently priced under the VIP glasses now on Amazon. 179 and 129, for kit and glasses, respectively.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/20719400
> 
> 
> Cool. The monster glasses are currently priced under the VIP glasses now on Amazon. 179 and 129, for kit and glasses, respectively.



Well, I picked some up at BB, their online price is same as Amazon's so they matched, but unfortunately, they don't seem to work. Everything hooked up correctly, transmitter lights turn green indicating 3D signal when I turn on 3D on the TV, but when I do that, the glasses just get dark, and I can clearly see both images. Tried it in mode 1 and mode 2. I also tried connecting the transmitter to my laptop and changing the left/right on there. No difference. Definitely disappointed, I thought these would be my uber pair for gaming, and the DLP-link could be for the kids and their friends... I'll wait till I get my Optoma's tomorrow to make sure it's not the TV, but if they work fine, I'll be taking these back.


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Strange. According to Bit Cauldron, who makes the glasses, they can be used with any DLP that has a 3D sync output port. See Post #7: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1347970


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* /forum/post/20720887
> 
> 
> Strange. According to Bit Cauldron, who makes the glasses, they can be used with any DLP that has a 3D sync output port. See Post #7: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1347970



Yeah, and they seem to be intended to work. The RF transmitter pairs right up and goes green when I put the TV in 3D mode. I figure I just got a defective set of glasses. They're the only pair I have so far though, so now way to test other aspects of the system till I get the Optomas tonight.


Is the power button pretty difficult to push in on your's? Mine takes about 4 or 5 tries till I finally get the light to come on. There's almost no tactile feel that it's actually being pressed, like a click or anything.


----------



## morgang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/20723033
> 
> 
> Is the power button pretty difficult to push in on your's? Mine takes about 4 or 5 tries till I finally get the light to come on. There's almost no tactile feel that it's actually being pressed, like a click or anything.



Yes, I have 4 pairs of glasses and the button doesn't give much tactile feedback on any of them. The LED confirms power on.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morgang* /forum/post/20738230
> 
> 
> Yes, I have 4 pairs of glasses and the button doesn't give much tactile feedback on any of them. The LED confirms power on.



Well, I got my DLP-link glasses and the TV itself is working fine. The adapter for the Monsters, plugged into the 3D-Sync port on my TV, paired up fine, turned green when I put it into 3D mode, but the glasses when turned on just went almost black in both eyes and the L and R images were both clearly visible. Reversed mode on the TV, no change. DLP-link glasses worked fine. They looked great actually and were really comfortable and not quite as goofy-looking as the Monsters (who designs these things anyway? It's not just Monster, all the first-gen glasses looked like they were designed by a not particularly creative six-year old) so back to BB the Monsters went. I think it was just a defective pair, and I'm sure another pair would have worked great, but I had already spent enough time troubleshooting the first pair, and considering the other glasses work out to about 1/3 the cost for four pairs (compared to kit + 3 glasses for Monster), I can't justify the extra expense. If they had worked and had a noticeable improvement in PQ, I would have used them, despite them being slightly less comfortable, heavier, bulkier, and more expensive.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morgang* /forum/post/20738230
> 
> 
> yes, i have 4 pairs of glasses and the button doesn't give much tactile feedback on any of them. The led confirms power on.



+1.


----------



## wardhealer

I have both the Ultra Clear Glasses with emitter and the Monster Vision Glasses. The Monster Visions are a tad brighter with slightly larger lenses. I like them both but I'm still not sure the Monster Vision glasses are worth 4 to 5 times more $$ than the Ultra Clears. However, if money is not an issue, I would highly recommend Monster Vision.

As for customer service, I had good experiences with Monster Vision and with Carl at Ultra Clear (3D Heaven). I had problems with the first pairs shipped to me from both companies. In both cases, I was able to reach someone on the phone within a few minutes and they were quick to offer replacements.

One other thing about the Monster Vision Glasses. When using the transmitter's joystick to play with the fine tuning, it's very easy to severely screw them up. Unless you're a real techie, I would advise against playing with the fine tuning. Also, don't bother trying the firmware 'update' procedure. There are no updates and according to the person I spoke to at Monster Cable in California, unless a severe previously unnoticed glitch is found, Bit Cauldron will probably just introduce new improved models rather than work on updates to this model.

Also, I noticed a company that sells, what appear to be the Monster Vision Glasses under a different brand name for $50 less. I would imagine that Monster Cable Co does not have exclusive rights from Bit Cauldron.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/20749632
> 
> 
> I have both the Ultra Clear Glasses with emitter and the Monster Vision Glasses. The Monster Visions are a tad brighter with slightly larger lenses. I like them both but I'm still not sure the Monster Vision glasses are worth 4 to 5 times more $$ than the Ultra Clears. However, if money is not an issue, I would highly recommend Monster Vision.
> 
> As for customer service, I had good experiences with Monster Vision and with Carl at Ultra Clear (3D Heaven). I had problems with the first pairs shipped to me from both companies. In both cases, I was able to reach someone on the phone within a few minutes and they were quick to offer replacements.
> 
> One other thing about the Monster Vision Glasses. When using the transmitter's joystick to play with the fine tuning, it's very easy to severely screw them up. Unless you're a real techie, I would advise against playing with the fine tuning. Also, don't bother trying the firmware 'update' procedure. There are no updates and according to the person I spoke to at Monster Cable in California, unless a severe previously unnoticed glitch is found, Bit Cauldron will probably just introduce new improved models rather than work on updates to this model.
> 
> Also, I noticed a company that sells, what appear to be the Monster Vision Glasses under a different brand name for $50 less. I would imagine that Monster Cable Co does not have exclusive rights from Bit Cauldron.



There _is_ an update. It just doesn't come as a separate file. When you install the Monster PC utility, it unpacks a firmware update along with the rest of the files needed for the utility. All you have to do is select the utility's "Upgrade" tab and follow the prompts.


This distribution method leads me to believe that any future firmware updates will also include the PC utility (which will itself have been upgraded as needed).


----------



## thebard

Quote:

Originally Posted by *wardhealer* 
Also, I noticed a company that sells, what appear to be the Monster Vision Glasses under a different brand name for $50 less. I would imagine that Monster Cable Co does not have exclusive rights from Bit Cauldron.
The glasses are also sold through consignia and VIP, as mentioned earlier in this thread. Be aware that those oem sales (geared toward use with the VIP products) may not include the IR receiver attachment.


----------



## mikemav

Does anyone else have any trouble getting these to work with a 3DTV via the IR receiver? Have a Samsung series 7 LED and it works fine via Samsung or 3DTV.com universal IR glasses, so I know the 3d is on and working. I read in the manual where the IR shutter signal emits from (lower left corner) and can even see it blinking a red led down there, but every time I plug in the Monster IR receiver and RF dongle, no matter if I place it close, right over the spot, or nearby, the red lights on the dongle keep sweeping band and forth looking for a sync signal. I even got a second kit in case there was a defect, but same thing. Any ideas? Tv and source (ps3) are in 3D mode and work w/ the IR glasses.


----------



## jim2011

Can anyone link me to cheaper compatible glasses for the monstervision transmitter? I have one of them from Monster but do not want to pay another $130.


Thanks!


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jim2011* /forum/post/20776981
> 
> 
> Can anyone link me to cheaper compatible glasses for the monstervision transmitter? I have one of them from Monster but do not want to pay another $130.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Google "3D RF glasses", and you should come up with some alternatives to look into.


----------



## Brian Hampton

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* 
Google "3D RF glasses", and you should come up with some alternatives to look into.
I would think only Bit Cauldron glasses would work and that means either Monster or 3D-Vip,... unless there's stuff that I don't know which is always possible.


There are some "premium" active shutter Vizio glasses on clearance at my BJ's club and I wonder about them. I thought Vizio was mostly on the passive 3D side. Either way... those glasses look pretty "yellow" and I don't think anyone makes glasses as nice as the Bit Cauldron model.


-Brian


----------



## Rolls-Royce

I have seen another source of RF glasses on the 'net, Brian. But they were from a major 2nd-tier display manufacturer, and I would be very surprised if they would be able to sync with a 60 Hz signal.


----------



## wardhealer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* 
There _is_ an update. It just doesn't come as a separate file. When you install the Monster PC utility, it unpacks a firmware update along with the rest of the files needed for the utility. All you have to do is select the utility's "Upgrade" tab and follow the prompts.


This distribution method leads me to believe that any future firmware updates will also include the PC utility (which will itself have been upgraded as needed).
I insalled the utility on the PC, but there was no updated firmware included. Also, the firmware I dwnloaded from Monster did not appear exactly the same as pictured in their instructions and the update button would not perform an update. It wasn't a problem with my PC because I tried it also on a friend's PC with the same negative results.


In any case, just what improvements or bug fixes are in this firmware update?


----------



## wardhealer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* 
Cool. The monster glasses are currently priced under the VIP glasses now on Amazon. 179 and 129, for kit and glasses, respectively.
Amazon now has the MonsterVision 3D Glasses full kit with transmitter an all (Actual Monster Brand, not VIP-3D), for only $175 w/ free shipping and they list Monster as the seller, not some third party. I feel cheated since I purchased mine just recently for $250. Its been over 30 days, though, so I guess I'm stuck for the extra $75


----------



## nowknown

J&R has the new Optoma branded RF 3D glasses w/emitter on preorder for $79.


----------



## Brian Hampton

Are the optima glasses rebranded bit cauldron too?


Edit I looked them up and saw dlp-link glasses with no mention of rf or emitter. Doesn't look comparable to the monster product at all.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/20840896
> 
> 
> I insalled the utility on the PC, but there was no updated firmware included. Also, the firmware I dwnloaded from Monster did not appear exactly the same as pictured in their instructions and the update button would not perform an update. It wasn't a problem with my PC because I tried it also on a friend's PC with the same negative results.
> 
> 
> In any case, just what improvements or bug fixes are in this firmware update?



It didn't update because there is no update for the Monstervision glasses. It just reports what version is already there which is the same.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* /forum/post/20843623
> 
> 
> Are the optima glasses rebranded bit cauldron too?
> 
> 
> Edit I looked them up and saw dlp-link glasses with no mention of rf or emitter. Doesn't look comparable to the monster product at all.



Look like Bit Cauldron to me.


BG-3DRFSYSTEM


http://www.optomausa.com/products/detail/BG-3DRFSYSTEM


----------



## Brian Hampton

Oh, that's great then. I searched j and r and that's not what I saw for $79


Edit- I see those elsewhere online for $99 with the emitter which is half what 3D-VIP charges and less than half what Monster charges.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Hey, guys, is there a good soul among you to help me connect the Monster 3D glasses to my JVC RS-40 so that they would work together with my JVC glasses? I heard there is a way to use the IR/RF converter to catch the IR signal from the JVC emitter and convert it to RF to be used by the Monster glasses. Is that possible at all? If so, where should I connect all the glasses accessories to make it work? I'm lost as the son of a whore in a Father's Day!

Thanks a bunch --

Helcio


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20873593
> 
> 
> Hey, guys, is there a good soul among you to help me connect the Monster 3D glasses to my JVC RS-40 so that they would work together with my JVC glasses? I heard there is a way to use the IR/RF converter to catch the IR signal from the JVC emitter and convert it to RF to be used by the Monster glasses. Is that possible at all? If so, where should I connect all the glasses accessories to make it work? I'm lost as the son of a whore in a Father's Day!
> 
> Thanks a bunch --
> 
> Helcio



p. 18 in the manual... the port labeled (6) 3D Synchro.


Looks like a standard VESA port, should hook up directly to the Monster emitter.


If you want to use IR & RF glasses together, you'll have to use the IR receiver block that comes with the monster, and place it in front of your jvc emitter to catch the ir signals.


----------



## zombie10k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20873593
> 
> 
> Hey, guys, is there a good soul among you to help me connect the Monster 3D glasses to my JVC RS-40 so that they would work together with my JVC glasses? I heard there is a way to use the IR/RF converter to catch the IR signal from the JVC emitter and convert it to RF to be used by the Monster glasses. Is that possible at all? If so, where should I connect all the glasses accessories to make it work? I'm lost as the son of a whore in a Father's Day!
> 
> Thanks a bunch --
> 
> Helcio



Unfortunately, the IR receiver with the Monster Vision 3D kit DOES NOT work with the JVC emitter.


I was also in the same situation where I wanted to use my JVC glasses along with the Monster Vision 3D glasses. I ordered a few cheap 3 pin DIN extenders from the internet and made a 'splitter' cable that works perfect so I can use the JVC IR emitter & Monster Vision @ the same time. No issues for about a month now.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Zombie, I can't thank you enought for the tip! One more thing, if I may -- where should I place the MOnster emitter once it is connected to the projector via splitter -- can it be side by side with the JVC emitter on top of the PJ? And how do I synch Monster glasses to emitter or is automatic once the glasses are on?

Man, honest to God, you saved my butt -- I was about to return the glasses!

Thanks a gazillion --

Helcio


----------



## zombie10k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Zombie, I can't thank you enought for the tip! One more thing, if I may -- where should I place the MOnster emitter once it is connected to the projector via splitter -- can it be side by side with the JVC emitter on top of the PJ? And how do I synch Monster glasses to emitter or is automatic once the glasses are on?
> 
> Man, honest to God, you saved my butt -- I was about to return the glasses!
> 
> Thanks a gazillion --
> 
> Helcio



Hi, they can be placed side by side no problem since one is IR and the other is RF. Once the monster vision emitter sees the 3d signal it should go all green indicating its ready to sync to the glasses.


I will find the place I bought the cables from to cut up and splice, there aren't too many places that sell them. I'll post the links as soon as I find it.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Thanks yet again. But the Monter glasses and converter synch is automatic, right?


----------



## zombie10k

Quote:

Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* 
Thanks yet again. But the Monter glasses and converter synch is automatic, right?
correct. I just used this combo the other night, it works perfect.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Thanks again, Zombie. Now, did you find the place you bought the cabele an extenders from? I managed to buy the 3 pin DIN (m and f) from http://www.cablesandconnectors.com/26500-26.HTM 

-- I mean, there were a number of them, just hope I got the right ones -- but I thought the cable would be a generic one...


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Hey, Jason -- need your help yet again. I am still waiting for the extenders to make the splitter, so last night I plugged the Monster RF emitter directly to my RS-40 -- to see the Monster glasses in action. I placed the emiter on top of my PJ (fixed on the ceiling). Chedked its lights -- all green. I sat back, turned on the charged glasses -- and could not get the 3D effect. Soimething was happning -- at first I thought it was the 3D effect, but then I realized it wasn't. It was an effect, but not 3D.

Any idea what I might've done wrong?

Thanks --

Helcio


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20904816
> 
> 
> Hey, Jason -- need your help yet again. I am still waiting for the extenders to make the splitter, so last night I plugged the Monster RF emitter directly to my RS-40 -- to see the Monster glasses in action. I placed the emiter on top of my PJ (fixed on the ceiling). Chedked its lights -- all green. I sat back, turned on the charged glasses -- and could not get the 3D effect. Soimething was happning -- at first I thought it was the 3D effect, but then I realized it wasn't. It was an effect, but not 3D.
> 
> Any idea what I might've done wrong?
> 
> Thanks --
> 
> Helcio



Wrong polarity, see manual page 9.


----------



## avswilier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, Jason -- need your help yet again. I am still waiting for the extenders to make the splitter, so last night I plugged the Monster RF emitter directly to my RS-40 -- to see the Monster glasses in action. I placed the emiter on top of my PJ (fixed on the ceiling). Chedked its lights -- all green. I sat back, turned on the charged glasses -- and could not get the 3D effect. Soimething was happning -- at first I thought it was the 3D effect, but then I realized it wasn't. It was an effect, but not 3D.
> 
> Any idea what I might've done wrong?
> 
> Thanks --
> 
> Helcio



Quick check by wearing glasses upside down. If 3d effect is now correct, your polarity is reversed.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Thanks for stepping in, guys. Jeez -- I feel like a complete dumbass. Turned the glasses upside down -- nothing. Tried to fiddle with the joystick (to the the left, to the right, up and down) -- nothing. Maybe I need to pair the freaking thing with the glasses -- but I'm not seeing how. Damn, do I feel like a moron!!


----------



## thebard

I'm cross-posting this on the Monster Max and VIP product threads. There have been numerous posts dealing with the less-than-ideal sync (L/R) invert feature for the rf emitter, and I've come up with an easy way to do it, literally at the touch of a button... without getting out of your seat! This method does require that the emitter be hooked up to a running pc; I use my music server, but a small laptop or netbook will suffice.


Here's what you do:


- Install the Bit Cauldron/Monster Max management utility, and hook up the emitter via usb.


- Purchase this inexpensive wireless usb remote and plug the usb receiver into the same computer as the emitter.


- Assign a shortcut key (e.g. Ctrl + Alt + A) to the management utility's shortcut that coincides with one of the remote's hotkeys (e.g. Hotkey A). (In windows XP: Right-click > Properties > Shortcut tab > Shortcut Key.)


- Press the following button sequence on the usb remote, or (even better) program it into your universal remote:


Hotkey A,

tab,

tab,

tab,

tab,

tab,

enter,

enter.


If programing a macro on a universal remote, you may need to account for some lag between commands.


Presto! Now, when you hit the button that activates the macro, the pc will automatically open the Bit Cauldron utility, select the "Switch Left/Right Lenses" button, and exit. While viewing 3D content, the left & right views should switch on screen a moment later.


The only drawbacks I've found are (1) the need to have a pc turned on & hooked up to the emitter (but I don't find this to be a problem, since my music server is adjacent to my HT gear and I already have it running while my system is on); and (2) depending on your computer, it may take a second or two to execute the commands (especially the hotkey that opens the utility). But the _advantages_ include _remote control_ of the sync invert function, and _never having to mess with that awful toggle switch again!_


Hope I was able to help out some others with this tip.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Gee...'preciate your efforts, Bard, but honest to God... this seems for an initiate, now a simple mortal like yours tryuly. Way too complicated for my small shrivelled brain. Why in the friggin' hell they don't make these friggin' things less complicated?!? For cryng out loud -- to me, it's rocket science, no less! Isse my chance of using those glasses farther and farther away...


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20914780
> 
> 
> Gee...'preciate your efforts, Bard, but honest to God... this seems for an initiate, now a simple mortal like yours tryuly. Way too complicated for my small shrivelled brain. Why in the friggin' hell they don't make these friggin' things less complicated?!? For cryng out loud -- to me, it's rocket science, no less! Isse my chance of using those glasses farther and farther away...



It's not that tough... the remote doesn't even require software. You just plug it in & you can control any pc with a usb port. So all you're really doing is sending the commands to the emitter software to invert the sync.


That said, it would have been _really_ nice if Bit Cauldron had built remote control into their emitter.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Well... I'll give it a try. But I don't think the problem is polarity, as I turned the glasses upside down and it didn't change a thing. The image is kinda funny... there seems to be a depth of some sort... but not the 3D depth we're used to. Things in the background seem to be in the foreground, plus funny ghosts... real weird. Bummer -- the glasses are MUCH more comfy than JVC's -- and lenses seem lighter too. Wish there was a Monster pundit down here in Brazil to make it work for me -- I'd gladly pay for the service!


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20916040
> 
> 
> Well... I'll give it a try. But I don't think the problem is polarity, as I turned the glasses upside down and it didn't change a thing. The image is kinda funny... there seems to be a depth of some sort... but not the 3D depth we're used to. Things in the background seem to be in the foreground, plus funny ghosts... real weird. Bummer -- the glasses are MUCH more comfy than JVC's -- and lenses seem lighter too. Wish there was a Monster pundit down here in Brazil to make it work for me -- I'd gladly pay for the service!



Have you adjusted the delay & duty cycle of the emitter? They are rarely optimal out of the box.


The remote solution I mentioned above has nothing to do with those parameters, so check the Monster manual & adjust the emitter first (either directly or via the usb software utility).


----------



## helcio.carvalho

I'll check the manual for delay and duty cycle... but what is the this USB software utility you talk about? Does it come with the glasses? Once again, the freaking glasses should be more user friendly... a plug-and-play thing would be nice.

Thanks a lot for your helping hand...


----------



## thebard

Quote:

Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* 
I'll check the manual for delay and duty cycle... but what is the this USB software utility you talk about? Does it come with the glasses? Once again, the freaking glasses should be more user friendly... a plug-and-play thing would be nice.

Thanks a lot for your helping hand...
The utility is available here. It duplicates all the emitter's toggle functions in software, so you don't really need it... but it makes it easier to adjust the settings.


Delay = time between sync signal & when lens opens.

Duty cycle = how long lens stays open each time.


----------



## helcio.carvalho

Many thanks for going the distance to helpe me out. I'll give it a try.

Helcio


----------



## manny677

Guys, what is the final verdict on the monster glasses? I have a Samsumg PNC8000 and am trying to decide between the monster or the samsung rechargeables. Only concerned about quality and not price. Thanks


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manny677* /forum/post/20940450
> 
> 
> Guys, what is the final verdict on the monster glasses? I have a Samsumg PNC8000 and am trying to decide between the monster or the samsung rechargeables. Only concerned about quality and not price. Thanks



Final verdict for _me_ is they are a keeper.


----------



## Fuzzbear

Ok, I just picked up a pair of these to use with my Optoma HD33 projector. Call me stupid, but im a little dumbfounded about the charging procedure on these. When you plug them in to a USB port.. Nothing happens.. The led does not illuminate or pulse or flash.. is this whats supposed to happen? The manual makes it sound like it should be illuminated in some way.


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fuzzbear* /forum/post/20940720
> 
> 
> Ok, I just picked up a pair of these to use with my Optoma HD33 projector. Call me stupid, but im a little dumbfounded about the charging procedure on these. When you plug them in to a USB port.. Nothing happens.. The led does not illuminate or pulse or flash.. is this whats supposed to happen? The manual makes it sound like it should be illuminated in some way.



Are you using the usb port on a computer, or a wall adapter? I think most have had a more reliable charge using a usb to AC adapter (like the kind used for cell phones).


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fuzzbear* /forum/post/20940720
> 
> 
> Ok, I just picked up a pair of these to use with my Optoma HD33 projector. Call me stupid, but im a little dumbfounded about the charging procedure on these. When you plug them in to a USB port.. Nothing happens.. The led does not illuminate or pulse or flash.. is this whats supposed to happen? The manual makes it sound like it should be illuminated in some way.



Pressing the power button before use should give you an indication and plugging into a PC USB port they should begin their hearbeat.


----------



## Fuzzbear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20941121
> 
> 
> Pressing the power button before use should give you an indication and plugging into a PC USB port they should begin their hearbeat.



\\


So, just plugging it in they do nothing? If i plug mine in..either through the computer or through my iphone charger they give no indication of charging. if I push the power button while plugged in they will beat for a few minutes than stop


----------



## manny677

Any other comments vs the samsung rechargeables?


----------



## Vampyro

The Monsters are worth the extra money. I would buy them again


----------



## zombie10k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebard* /forum/post/20916998
> 
> 
> The utility is available here. It duplicates all the emitter's toggle functions in software, so you don't really need it... but it makes it easier to adjust the settings.
> 
> 
> Delay = time between sync signal & when lens opens.
> 
> Duty cycle = how long lens stays open each time.



it's a shame there is no way to adjust in real time, but it is nice they put in the switch left/right lense for those having issues.


I am using these on my Sony HW30 projector and have been able to tune ghosting to nearly non-existence.


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombie10k* /forum/post/20963040
> 
> 
> it's a shame there is no way to adjust in real time, but it is nice they put in the switch left/right lense for those having issues.



Yeah, remote control functionality really should have been built-in (or at least an option) with the many features included on this emitter.


But as I outlined in my earlier post, a cheap pc remote does the trick for me. I hit one button, and about two seconds later polarity switches, on the fly.


For me, it's much easier than dealing with the emitter's toggle switch.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fuzzbear* /forum/post/20941186
> 
> 
> \\
> 
> 
> So, just plugging it in they do nothing? If i plug mine in..either through the computer or through my iphone charger they give no indication of charging. if I push the power button while plugged in they will beat for a few minutes than stop



After you pressed the power button, how many flashes did you count

before they resumed steady beat and timed out after five minutes?


If the transmitter is not operating they will timeout after 5.


Unfortunately the manual and charge indicator is kinda weak in it's reporting mechanism. See Pages 14 and 15 of the BC5100 users manual.


Main thing is if they are not holding charge then they may be from the group that had the incorrect charging resistor installed.


There are plenty of threads regarding that in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer group threads.


Haven't heard of Monstervision owners receiving any of those as yet.


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *helcio.carvalho* /forum/post/20914780
> 
> 
> Gee...'preciate your efforts, Bard, but honest to God... this seems for an initiate, now a simple mortal like yours tryuly. Way too complicated for my small shrivelled brain. Why in the friggin' hell they don't make these friggin' things less complicated?!? For cryng out loud -- to me, it's rocket science, no less! Isse my chance of using those glasses farther and farther away...



I agree. These are not made for non-techies. Even the terminology such as current frequency, delay and duty cycle mean nothing to me...might as well be a foreign language. My first pair didn't seem to work properly and adjusting them with the toggle switch or the software was over my head. The manual was no help since I didn't understand the terminology. I only succeeded in making the problem worse. Luckily, Monster's customer service was very cooperative. They sent me a postage paid return label and the new pair arrived 10 days later. They worked perfectly right out of the box.


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/20963437
> 
> 
> After you pressed the power button, how many flashes did you count
> 
> before they resumed steady beat and timed out after five minutes?
> 
> 
> If the transmitter is not operating they will timeout after 5.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the manual and charge indicator is kinda weak in it's reporting mechanism. See Pages 14 and 15 of the BC5100 users manual.
> 
> 
> Main thing is if they are not holding charge then they may be from the group that had the incorrect charging resistor installed.
> 
> 
> There are plenty of threads regarding that in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer group threads.
> 
> 
> Haven't heard of Monstervision owners receiving any of those as yet.



where can download the BC5100 users manual?


----------



## Fuzzbear

Well after leaving them plugged in for a few hours, the led did finally start to pulse. It was just confusing as the manual makes it sound like the pulsing should begin as soon as the glasses are plugged in.


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fuzzbear* /forum/post/20983647
> 
> 
> Well after leaving them plugged in for a few hours, the led did finally start to pulse. It was just confusing as the manual makes it sound like the pulsing should begin as soon as the glasses are plugged in.



The manual is terrible. It must have been written, at best, by someone who never bothered to use the glasses or, at worst, by a complete idiot.

The VIP glasses are the same as the MonsterVision glasses. The VIP website has downloads of the software, installation and user manuals. They are much better than the MonsterVision manual. The VIP website is a bit funky and the download links are not normal links. You can't simply download the pdf files. You can only open them in the browser then save them to your HDD. I've never seen that type of setup before.


----------



## Deepsky4565

If we have the ones with poor charging function. what do we do?


----------



## Brian Hampton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Deepsky4565* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If we have the ones with poor charging function. what do we do?



Exchange them. Defective stuff isn't worth having.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/20985590
> 
> 
> The manual is terrible. It must have been written, at best, by someone who never bothered to use the glasses or, at worst, by a complete idiot.
> 
> The VIP glasses are the same as the MonsterVision glasses. The VIP website has downloads of the software, installation and user manuals. They are much better than the MonsterVision manual. The VIP website is a bit funky and the download links are not normal links. You can't simply download the pdf files. You can only open them in the browser then save them to your HDD. I've never seen that type of setup before.



There is something wrong with your setup as Adobe Acrobat opens the VIP files fine, don't have to view them through the browser.


Try opening the browser, goto Tools/InternetOptions/Programs/Manage Addons and disable Adobe link. That should allow Acrobat to open the file.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/20964756
> 
> 
> where can download the BC5100 users manual?


 http://www.monstercable.com/productd...?pin=5938#null 


Open the manuals tab and download the manual or any firmware updates.


Looks like they redid the manual and no longer use the BC5100 version.


Monstervision, Optoma and VIP3D are all rebranded Bit Cauldron 5000 series RF shutter glasses.

http://www.bitcauldron.com/index.php...d=98&Itemid=66


----------



## lovingdvd

Hi all - thanks for the great thread. With all this info I went out and got the Monstervision glasses. I have a few questions please:


1) I am very confused about how the charging light works... I understand how to read the blinks on power up to determine the current charge, but not sure how the lights are supposed to work during charging.


When I first got the glasses I pushed the power button and nothing happened at all. No lights. I figured the batter way dead, which it was. Same thing with a second pair I bought.


Anyway, I put in the USB to charge it and then it came back and powered on.


But here's my main question - how can I tell when the glasses are FULLY CHARGED and I can take them off the usb charging?


While I am charging the LED is out. Then after a while I saw it blinking slowly and steadily. Then it stops doing that (apparently after 5 min or so) and then the light it out again. Does the light come on solid or something when it is done charging?


2) Am I right to assume I can use the Optoma BG-3DRF glasses with the Monstervision RF transmitter? The Optoma glasses are MUCH cheaper but I can't find the Optoma BG-3DRFSYSTEM base station any where.


3) Does anyone have some tips on what type of material, scenes, patterns etc can be best used to tune settings of the glasses? Is there a certain technique or things to look for in determining what settings to use? And do the settings apply to all glasses or you have to do it for each pair? They are working great with my Samsung C80000 but if I can tune them that's even better.


4) Can the tuning be done using the joystick or must it be done with the PC software?


5) My transmitter came with firmware version 1.05.004 installed. After I updated it, the firmware still said it was that version. Is this the latest version? Even though I just got the glasses today I would be a bit surprised if it already had the latest on it.


6) Is there a way to force a pair of glasses to update the firmware by communicating with the transmitter to redownload it? With my first pair I specifically say the rapidly blinking lights while it updated itself. But on my second pair I didn't see this - so want to make sure it has the latest.


7) How do you turn the glasses OFF? I know where the power button is, but whether I push it and let go, or push and old - either way they stay on. Scenario: 2 people watching 3D, 1 person leaves the room - if they don't turn the glasses off they will stay in sync and drain the battery. So certainly there should be a way to turn them off?


8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?


Thanks!


----------



## Deepsky4565




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Hampton* /forum/post/20988914
> 
> 
> Exchange them. Defective stuff isn't worth having.



I was hoping for something a little more informative. How can we tell if we have a bad unit? I've had them for about 6 months, but used them very infrequently, but I suspect they don't hold charge as well as they should. This is probably outside the return window for the retailer (Vanns), so do I need to get an RMA from Monster? Is there a way to test how long they keep a charge without wearing them until they wear out? I've kept up with this thread since it started, and don't recall this issue coming up before, and then it's just casually mentioned like it's common knowledge. Is there more info on it somewhere? Thanks for any guidance.


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> Hi all - thanks for the great thread. With all this info I went out and got the Monstervision glasses. I have a few questions please:
> 
> 
> 1) I am very confused about how the charging light works... I understand how to read the blinks on power up to determine the current charge, but not sure how the lights are supposed to work during charging.
> 
> 
> When I first got the glasses I pushed the power button and nothing happened at all. No lights. I figured the batter way dead, which it was. Same thing with a second pair I bought.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I put in the USB to charge it and then it came back and powered on.
> 
> 
> But here's my main question - how can I tell when the glasses are FULLY CHARGED and I can take them off the usb charging?
> 
> 
> While I am charging the LED is out. Then after a while I saw it blinking slowly and steadily. Then it stops doing that (apparently after 5 min or so) and then the light it out again. Does the light come on solid or something when it is done charging?



Unplug the glasses from the charging cable and power them on. TWO LONG BLINKS on power on means the battery is 50% or more charged.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 2) Am I right to assume I can use the Optoma BG-3DRF glasses with the Monstervision RF transmitter? The Optoma glasses are MUCH cheaper but I can't find the Optoma BG-3DRFSYSTEM base station any where.



The Optoma and the Monster RF glasses are both rebranded Bit Cauldron glasses. You should be able to use them interchangeably.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 3) Does anyone have some tips on what type of material, scenes, patterns etc can be best used to tune settings of the glasses? Is there a certain technique or things to look for in determining what settings to use? And do the settings apply to all glasses or you have to do it for each pair? They are working great with my Samsung C80000 but if I can tune them that's even better.



One of my favorites is Disney's Tangled. The content is bright and there are quite a few scenes set against open sky, so you can easliy check for ghosting, etc.; there is also a full color pallette so you can tell if you're over-adjusting.


I usually start by pausing on a scene and tuning the delay/duty cycle until there is zero ghosting; then I put the scene in motion and pull back until the flicker on my 60hz setup is negligible.


Another movie that works well for evaluating flicker if you have a 60hz display Tron Legacy (the bright white scenes at Flynn's house off the grid).


You could also try one of the 3d crosstalk tests posted here. 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 4) Can the tuning be done using the joystick or must it be done with the PC software?



It can be done using the joystick; procedure is outlined in the manual. However, you may find the pc utility to be easier.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 5) My transmitter came with firmware version 1.05.004 installed. After I updated it, the firmware still said it was that version. Is this the latest version? Even though I just got the glasses today I would be a bit surprised if it already had the latest on it.
> 
> 
> 6) Is there a way to force a pair of glasses to update the firmware by communicating with the transmitter to redownload it? With my first pair I specifically say the rapidly blinking lights while it updated itself. But on my second pair I didn't see this - so want to make sure it has the latest.



Not _certain_ about the firmware (Monster doesn't specify the latest version on their download page!), but I think 1.05.004 is indeed the latest version; I'm still running the one it came with, and it works fine.


One way you can check for the latest firmware is to try adjusting the polarity with the joystick; the latest firmware has a different method.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 7) How do you turn the glasses OFF? I know where the power button is, but whether I push it and let go, or push and old - either way they stay on. Scenario: 2 people watching 3D, 1 person leaves the room - if they don't turn the glasses off they will stay in sync and drain the battery. So certainly there should be a way to turn them off?



The glasses turn off automatically after not detecting the emitter for five minutes. There is no way to force them off (although I suppose you could move them out of range of the emitter and let them power off automatically).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> 8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?



No idea.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You're welcome!


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombie10k* /forum/post/20963040
> 
> 
> it's a shame there is no way to adjust in real time, but it is nice they put in the switch left/right lense for those having issues.
> 
> 
> I am using these on my Sony HW30 projector and have been able to tune ghosting to nearly non-existence.



Jason,


They do adjust in real time. In your picture you are not connected (Device Not Found).


Here is a pic connected and as I move the sliders it adjusts in real time.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20994950
> 
> 
> ....8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Standard Lithium-Ion rules apply. Abut 500 full cycle charges or 10 years. *Frequent "top off" charges best (don't run to dead). Run completely dead about 4 times a year to calibrate charging circuits.


Batt. grow crystals in dead cells (this is why you should charge often and keep them charged) so capacity diminishes over time.


Not user replaceable but even if you only get 5 or 6 years of service do you really think you will still be using theses?


*Doesn't count as a full cycle charge.


----------



## William

How is everyone dealing with the controller when watching 2D. The flashing red LED's are distracting and bright. I tried hiding behind my HTPC but still can see them. Are you unplugging the controller after each 3D viewing?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20996460
> 
> 
> Standard Lithium-Ion rules apply. Abut 500 full cycle charges or 10 years. *Frequent "top off" charges best (don't run to dead). Run completely dead about 4 times a year to calibrate charging circuits.
> 
> 
> Batt. grow crystals in dead cells (this is why you should charge often and keep them charged) so capacity diminishes over time.
> 
> 
> Not user replaceable but even if you only get 5 or 6 years of service do you really think you will still be using theses?
> 
> 
> *Doesn't count as a full cycle charge.



Thanks William! That's really helpful. Regarding the "top off" charges - am I correct to assume that the number of these is much higher than the 500 full cycle charge count? So maybe top it off say when it gets to 50%?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20996444
> 
> 
> Jason,
> 
> 
> They do adjust in real time. In your picture you are not connected (Device Not Found).



Great to know! This will make adjusting much easier. I'll bring my laptop into the room and adjust on the fly.


The MonsterVision manual states that when using the IR receiver the default settings for these adjustments should already be ideal. Therefore I am curious if anyone has actually seen any benefits to changing these parameters when using the IR receiver? I'll be testing this today and will let you guys know.


I haven't played with the settings yet and have done only a very limited amount of viewing, but so far the glasses look fantastic with my Samsung PN63C8000.


I've only seen one noticeable instance of ghosting and that was with the opening of Despicable Me when the big giant "Despicable Me" letters stick out. Very significant ghosting on both the left and right sides (same with my non Monstervision glasses). So I'll see if these settings will help with this. Its also possible that this is not ghosting and just the way the image is created.


----------



## lovingdvd

To answer one of my own original questions - it seems that when the glasses become fully charged while connected to the charging cable that the LED glows red almost solidly but with little blips (so its not a solid glow, but pretty close).


So far there are only two things I do not like about the glasses.


1) The power button is difficult to press especially for young kids, with practically not tactile feedback.


2) I really do not like that there is no way (apparently) to turn the glasses off. Yes its great that they turn off after 5 minutes with no 3D signal. However there are two scenarios that I can see happening:


a) 5 people sit down to watch 3D. After a bit 3 of the people decide they don't want to watch anymore (you know how young kids can be) so they run off, while the others watch for 3 hours.


Normally you'd turn their glasses off when the 3 people leave - but with these you can't. So now 3 pairs of glasses will be using power for 3 hours. This will contribute of course to draining the battery and increasing the PITA factor of having to charge these.


Further, I can see a scenario where the TV is left on in 2D->3D conversion mode for 8 hours while people are in and out of the room (mostly out!). The glasses will stay on all day and drain quickly. Usually folks are pretty good about turning off the glasses, but with these they'll just stay on until eventually the TV is turned off. This isn't a deal breaker but far from ideal.


How hard would it be for them to just let you push and hold the power button for a couple seconds to have them turn off??


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20996472
> 
> 
> How is everyone dealing with the controller when watching 2D. The flashing red LED's are distracting and bright. I tried hiding behind my HTPC but still can see them. Are you unplugging the controller after each 3D viewing?



There are a couple ways I plan to handle this. One is to mask the lights with electric tape. I would still be able to look under the tape (from the side) to check the lights if need be. Or alternatively I may wrap the end of the transmitter (where the lights are of course) in something like an ace flexible bandage (like you use to wrap your wrist). That's easy to unwrap to check the lights.


Or yet another way I may build a little cardboard box and put it in there, or even try putting the whole thing in like an eyeglass case or something. Should be pretty easy to solve.


----------



## lovingdvd

It would be great if they provided more levels of feedback on the charge state of the glasses. Currently its just > 50%, > 10% and 75%, as well as > 20%.


For example, I'd probably want to top off the charge whenever it fell to below 75%. With their current approach, I'd have to wait until it fell below 50%. I know this isn't that big of a deal, but it probably would have only added about 5 minutes to development time for them to add this extra granularity in the charge state feedback.


Yea they were probably just trying to keep the instructions as simple as possible (only 3 states of the lights/blinks for feedback). But adding one or two more levels of feedback here wouldn't have made a big difference in that regard.


Also - the instruction manuals say that two blinks mean > 50%, and the next step from there are 6 blinks. However I get THREE blinks, not two, when the glasses are well charged. Anyone else seeing this? I wonder if it is just a typo in the manual and they meant to put 3 blinks where they wrote 2?


----------



## lovingdvd

Does anyone have a link where the instruction manual for the Optoma or VIP kit/glasses can be obtained? I have the link for the Monstervision manuals, but I'd like to cross reference some information in the other vendor manuals to see if there are any differences that may better explain some things such as the charging and charge state lights. Thanks.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20996664
> 
> 
> Thanks William! That's really helpful. Regarding the "top off" charges - am I correct to assume that the number of these is much higher than the 500 full cycle charge count? So maybe top it off say when it gets to 50%?



Yes, in general for instance if you use a little over 25% and top of charge this is about = to 1/4 charge. The more often you charge the more life/capacity you will have.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20996808
> 
> 
> Yes, in general for instance if you use about 25% and top of charge this is about = to 1/4 charge. The more often you charge the more life/capacity you will have.



Wouldn't that just work out to the same? For example, if you drained to 75% 4 times then you used 1/4 charges 4 times = 1 full cycle charge. Compared if if just let it drain to 0% then you had the same usage out of it (100% versus 25% 4 times) and still one full cycle charge, no?


----------



## lovingdvd

William - you posted above screen shots and said you can adjust them in real-time. That was encouraging. However I am trying this and its not working, because the IR receiver/transmitter shows flashing red lights when connected to the laptop.


Here are the details...


I have the IR receiver plugged into the USB on the TV. When I turn on 3D, the red flashing LEDs turn to 5 green lights right away, and everything works fine.


However when I plug the IR receiver into the laptop, the light only flash like they are searching for the IR signal (no green). I can then remove it from the laptop, plug back into the TV's USB, and all green lights come right back.


It does not matter if the Monstervision 3D application is running on not on the laptop - same results (will not turn to green when powered by the laptop).


As a side note, the application does allow me to connect to the IR receiver and reads it just fine, showing me the firmware in the status bar instead of "device not found" so I know that aspect of it is working. So it seems I cannot adjust in real-time like you can. What do you think the difference could be??


----------



## avswilier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would be great if they provided more levels of feedback on the charge state of the glasses. Currently its just > 50%, > 10% and 75%, as well as > 20%.
> 
> 
> For example, I'd probably want to top off the charge whenever it fell to below 75%. With their current approach, I'd have to wait until it fell below 50%. I know this isn't that big of a deal, but it probably would have only added about 5 minutes to development time for them to add this extra granularity in the charge state feedback.
> 
> 
> Yea they were probably just trying to keep the instructions as simple as possible (only 3 states of the lights/blinks for feedback). But adding one or two more levels of feedback here wouldn't have made a big difference in that regard.
> 
> 
> Also - the instruction manuals say that two blinks mean > 50%, and the next step from there are 6 blinks. However I get THREE blinks, not two, when the glasses are well charged. Anyone else seeing this? I wonder if it is just a typo in the manual and they meant to put 3 blinks where they wrote 2?



The manual is incorrect. The avsforumite Sgtvideo has already noted that 3 blinks is correct and I confirm my glasses also blink thrice


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20996833
> 
> 
> Wouldn't that just work out to the same? For example, if you drained to 75% 4 times then you used 1/4 charges 4 times = 1 full cycle charge. Compared if if just let it drain to 0% then you had the same usage out of it (100% versus 25% 4 times) and still one full cycle charge, no?



Yes but the dead cells grow crystals so you increase the life by limiting the time/amount of dead cells. So doing full cycle drains will give you a lower life with quicker diminished capacity. For instance by doing frequent top off charges you may have 600 charge cycles instead of 500. Also you may have 10% more capacity in a year then if you do full cycle discharges each time.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20996940
> 
> 
> William - you posted above screen shots and said you can adjust them in real-time. That was encouraging. However I am trying this and its not working, because the IR receiver/transmitter shows flashing red lights when connected to the laptop.
> 
> 
> Here are the details...
> 
> 
> I have the IR receiver plugged into the USB on the TV. When I turn on 3D, the red flashing LEDs turn to 5 green lights right away, and everything works fine.
> 
> 
> However when I plug the IR receiver into the laptop, the light only flash like they are searching for the IR signal (no green). I can then remove it from the laptop, plug back into the TV's USB, and all green lights come right back.
> 
> 
> It does not matter if the Monstervision 3D application is running on not on the laptop - same results (will not turn to green when powered by the laptop).
> 
> 
> As a side note, the application does allow me to connect to the IR receiver and reads it just fine, showing me the firmware in the status bar instead of "device not found" so I know that aspect of it is working. So it seems I cannot adjust in real-time like you can. What do you think the difference could be??



Is it possible your laptop's USB is not outputting enough amperage. I think the Monster is a monster power draw on USB. I did get a warning about this on my Mac.


----------



## lovingdvd

Well guys its been a frustrating morning trying to tune work with the fine tuning.


First I used the laptop sliders blindly just to try it (because I cannot adjust in real-time as noted in post above). And of course this made a mess of the picture.


So then I went into the utility to try and reset them back to factory defaults, but there is no such option. I don't know if sliders all the way down are even the defaults! But at any rate, the lowest the sliders will go are something like 20 and 10, whereas before I changed them there were no values in those fields at all (and couldn't get it back to that state).


OK so next I decided to just use the instructions in the manual to reset the IR receiver/transmitter back to the factory settings. I am pretty darn sure I am following the instructions properly (having tried it dozens of times!) but it doesn't appear to be resetting.


The manual states this:


> Quote:
> 1. Press & Hold the Joystick to the left for 10 Seconds
> 
> 2. All LEDs should illuminate GREEN, Hold until this occurs
> 
> 3. The factory Reset is complete when all LEDs flash really fast



This however doesn't work as described. When I perform step 1, after about 7 seconds all lights turn off. Then as I continue to hold indefinitely, nothing happens. All lights do not turn green as it says, and no leds flash really fast.


I'd really like to reset back to the factory to clear the tuning parameters because the manual does state that resetting to factory resets those - and that's what I'm after.


OK so next I decide I will try to tune it using using the joystick. The directions say to "Press & Hold the joystick until the first 2 LEDs illuminate GREEN.". But once again, same thing - after I hold the joystick left all lights turn off and that's it. I then noticed if I press the joystick left again and hold it, the lights start scrolling up. If I stop at the second light it then seems to be in the tuning mode. However once in there, I can't figure out how to get to the default settings.


Great product, but either the documentation is wrong and in need of correction, or I am just doing something really dumb. Frustrating either way.










Thanks!


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20997053
> 
> 
> Is it possible your laptop's USB is not outputting enough amperage. I think the Monster is a monster power draw on USB. I did get a warning about this on my Mac.



Yes, it is quite possible. Bummer.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20997253
> 
> 
> Yes, it is quite possible. Bummer.



You might try a powered USB hub.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20998398
> 
> 
> You might try a powered USB hub.



Good point. Although after finding it (seemingly) impossible to reset the sliders back to their factory default positions I've pretty much given up on trying to configure it with the laptop.


Instead I'm poking around with the joystick. Adjusting the duty cycle seems pretty straight forward and I found a sweet spot for reducing ghosting.


Although I do not see how to properly set the delay parameter... I've tried going from one extreme to the other and do not see any benefit (just a worsening in every position). Is there a good trick for finding the sweet spot on that?


Also would be great to get your thoughts on my post above about how to reset fine tuning settings to factory defaults if you have any info or experience on that. Thanks.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20998456
> 
> 
> Good point. Although after finding it (seemingly) impossible to reset the sliders back to their factory default positions I've pretty much given up on trying to configure it with the laptop.
> 
> 
> Instead I'm poking around with the joystick. Adjusting the duty cycle seems pretty straight forward and I found a sweet spot for reducing ghosting.
> 
> 
> Although I do not see how to properly set the delay parameter... I've tried going from one extreme to the other and do not see any benefit (just a worsening in every position). Is there a good trick for finding the sweet spot on that?
> 
> 
> Also would be great to get your thoughts on my post above about how to reset fine tuning settings to factory defaults if you have any info or experience on that. Thanks.



If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....










I have never used the joystick to set. I'm actually new (just got them Friday) and have yet to actually watch a 3D movie with them (I'm watching Star Wars and have Ep. VI to go but going to watch Football tonight).


I had a corrupt firmware update on the first try and had to reset. I had a HELL of a time getting them reset and spent over an hour. Unfortunately I tried so many things that I can't remember what worked.


Try unplugging then hold the joystick to the left and plug in while holding. Then release and press and hold again for 10 seconds and se if you can get the 4 green LED's to show.


Also try with the Management Utility closed.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/20997250
> 
> 
> Well guys its been a frustrating morning trying to tune work with the fine tuning.
> 
> 
> First I used the laptop sliders blindly just to try it (because I cannot adjust in real-time as noted in post above). And of course this made a mess of the picture.
> 
> 
> So then I went into the utility to try and reset them back to factory defaults, but there is no such option. I don't know if sliders all the way down are even the defaults! But at any rate, the lowest the sliders will go are something like 20 and 10, whereas before I changed them there were no values in those fields at all (and couldn't get it back to that state).
> 
> 
> OK so next I decided to just use the instructions in the manual to reset the IR receiver/transmitter back to the factory settings. I am pretty darn sure I am following the instructions properly (having tried it dozens of times!) but it doesn't appear to be resetting.
> 
> 
> The manual states this:
> 
> 
> 
> This however doesn't work as described. When I perform step 1, after about 7 seconds all lights turn off. Then as I continue to hold indefinitely, nothing happens. All lights do not turn green as it says, and no leds flash really fast.
> 
> 
> I'd really like to reset back to the factory to clear the tuning parameters because the manual does state that resetting to factory resets those - and that's what I'm after.
> 
> 
> OK so next I decide I will try to tune it using using the joystick. The directions say to "Press & Hold the joystick until the first 2 LEDs illuminate GREEN.". But once again, same thing - after I hold the joystick left all lights turn off and that's it. I then noticed if I press the joystick left again and hold it, the lights start scrolling up. If I stop at the second light it then seems to be in the tuning mode. However once in there, I can't figure out how to get to the default settings.
> 
> 
> Great product, but either the documentation is wrong and in need of correction, or I am just doing something really dumb. Frustrating either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Personally I don't bother using a laptop to adjust the tuning, it is just faster and more convenient for me using the jstick.


As far as doing a default reset to clear tuning settings it doesn't really matter, any tuning adjustment overwrites the previous. That's why when folks have multiple displays they have to retune because their old settings were overwritten each time.


Another thing we need to keep in mind that "intermittent" ghosting is not necessarily a fault of the glasses or tuning. Some 3D content has flaws that are already documented by other viewers. This has been noted in such movies as Tron3D. So don't let 3D content make you think you equipment is at fault. Occasionally the frame-lock may momentarily break sync in the video display or shutter glasses and a brief moment of ghosting may occur.


As long as the picture normalizes in short order it doesn't matter at this stage as there are still some bugs for this industry to work out.


A few transmitters can have a glitch in their firmware and sometimes refreshing the firmware clears up issues such as sliders not functioning.


Using the updated firmware that was developed for VIP3D gives a better method of polarity adjustment than what is demonstrated in the Monster manual. Most people could not make the jstick position itself to go into that mode properly.


The updated firmware is compatible with the Monstervision glasses, of course updating firmware comes with it's risk if done improperly. I do not know if Monster would honor a transmitter failure if one messed it up. Personally, since Bit Cauldron developed it I don't see why they wouldn't but you never know.


This firmware update is posted on the Curt Palme VIP3D forum site and my instructions for it's use are there as well.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776 



Back to your attempts to enter tuning mode:


1. Assuming the transmitter is in normal operation. Press and hold jstick UP until the 2nd LED appears and quickly release.


2. Now when you press the jstick UP/DOWN the RED LEDS will increase/decrease this is Delay Tuning. It has the greatest effect for minimizing ghosting.


3. When you press the jstick LEFT/RIGHT the AMBER LEDS will increase/decrease, this is Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels through the RF glasses. Balancing back and forth between the two adjustments provides the optimum to reduce ghosting and brightness levels that provide the best picture. For me it only takes a couple minutes and once it's done for THAT display you shouldn't need to later.


4. After about a 2 minute interval of none adjustment then the settings are saved and overwrite the previous settings. You may briefly see a glitch as the glasses resync after the save function completes.



Anyway, try the previous before doing any firmware updating and see if it makes better sense as the manual has it's weaknesses.


I expect changes in the next group of RF glasses but we are all using generation Uno for now.



=============


As a second thought in regards to using the VIP3D update, if your transmitter is unresponsive to the RF glasses utility, then you should work that out with Monstervision support. Using a rebranded firmware may not come with Monsters blessing and perhaps they should have Bit Cauldron provide a version of that update to them. Even though I Beta tested the firmware change for VIP3D and Bit Cauldron I don't want to get in between the two manufacturers if a support issue develops by using it for Monster branded glasses.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20998544
> 
> 
> If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never used the joystick to set. I'm actually new (just got them Friday) and have yet to actually watch a 3D movie with them (I'm watching Star Wars and have Ep. VI to go but going to watch Football tonight).
> 
> 
> I had a corrupt firmware update on the first try and had to reset. I had a HELL of a time getting them reset and spent over an hour. Unfortunately I tried so many things that I can't remember what worked.
> 
> 
> Try unplugging then hold the joystick to the left and plug in while holding. Then release and press and hold again for 10 seconds and se if you can get the 4 green LED's to show.
> 
> 
> Also try with the Management Utility closed.




when you were trying to do a fimware update, did the progress bar complete or abort?


If it completed, the LEDS should have begun strobing normally.


IF it failed before completion then only the #2 LED will be lit and that indicates the transmitter is stuck in update mode.


There is a fix for that if that's the case which I won't get in on here for now.


To my knowledge there is no new firmware for the Monster RF glasses as currently shipped. They are all on Vxxxx.004 if I remember but you can still use the same utility to adjust the sliders. The utility should report the current version that is in the transmitter.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21000416
> 
> 
> Personally I don't bother using a laptop to adjust the tuning, it is just faster and more convenient for me using the jstick.
> 
> 
> As far as doing a default reset to clear tuning settings it doesn't really matter, any tuning adjustment overwrites the previous. That's why when folks have multiple displays they have to retune because their old settings were overwritten each time.
> 
> 
> Another thing we need to keep in mind that "intermittent" ghosting is not necessarily a fault of the glasses or tuning. Some 3D content has flaws that are already documented by other viewers. This has been noted in such movies as Tron3D. So don't let 3D content make you think you equipment is at fault. Occasionally the frame-lock may momentarily break sync in the video display or shutter glasses and a brief moment of ghosting may occur.
> 
> 
> As long as the picture normalizes in short order it doesn't matter at this stage as there are still some bugs for this industry to work out.
> 
> 
> A few transmitters can have a glitch in their firmware and sometimes refreshing the firmware clears up issues such as sliders not functioning.
> 
> 
> Using the updated firmware that was developed for VIP3D gives a better method of polarity adjustment than what is demonstrated in the Monster manual. Most people could not make the jstick position itself to go into that mode properly.
> 
> 
> The updated firmware is compatible with the Monstervision glasses, of course updating firmware comes with it's risk if done improperly. I do not know if Monster would honor a transmitter failure if one messed it up. Personally, since Bit Cauldron developed it I don't see why they wouldn't but you never know.
> 
> 
> This firmware update is posted on the Curt Palme VIP3D forum site and my instructions for it's use are there as well.
> 
> http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776
> 
> 
> 
> Back to your attempts to enter tuning mode:
> 
> 
> 1. Assuming the transmitter is in normal operation. Press and hold jstick UP until the 2nd LED appears and quickly release.
> 
> 
> 2. Now when you press the jstick UP/DOWN the RED LEDS will increase/decrease this is Delay Tuning. It has the greatest effect for minimizing ghosting.
> 
> 
> 3. When you press the jstick LEFT/RIGHT the AMBER LEDS will increase/decrease, this is Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels through the RF glasses. Balancing back and forth between the two adjustments provides the optimum to reduce ghosting and brightness levels that provide the best picture. For me it only takes a couple minutes and once it's done for THAT display you shouldn't need to later.
> 
> 
> 4. After about a 2 minute interval of none adjustment then the settings are saved and overwrite the previous settings. You may briefly see a glitch as the glasses resync after the save function completes.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, try the previous before doing any firmware updating and see if it makes better sense as the manual has it's weaknesses.
> 
> 
> I expect changes in the next group of RF glasses but we are all using generation Uno for now.
> 
> 
> 
> =============
> 
> 
> As a second thought in regards to using the VIP3D update, if your transmitter is unresponsive to the RF glasses utility, then you should work that out with Monstervision support. Using a rebranded firmware may not come with Monsters blessing and perhaps they should have Bit Cauldron provide a version of that update to them. Even though I Beta tested the firmware change for VIP3D and Bit Cauldron I don't want to get in between the two manufacturers if a support issue develops by using it for Monster branded glasses.



Thanks! Could you kindly describe in detail the process you use to perform the fine tuning? Like maybe provide a specific scene/frame from Tangled or Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs that I should pause and use as the reference? And then how to know which control to try and what to look for before reversing etc?


Here's what I've done so far... I got it into Fine Tuning mode and by default the Duty (amber) lights were almost maxed out - the last light was just a tad dimmer. Things look very good in this situation, but I figured, hey I'm a calibrator so why not try to tweak it?










So then I took the Duty all the way up so it was as bright as it went. I noticed some ghosting on a particular scene and compared it to my NXG glasses which did not ghost.


So then I lowered the Duty by 4 clicks to the left. At that point just about all the ghosting was gone. Technically it should be more like 6 or 7 clicks, but I decided to run it a little "hot" just to make the tradeoff that I'd take a little ghosting here and there in exchange for a brighter image.


Anyway, it was pretty clear how to adjust the Duty. But for the Delay, I really didn't how what to look for or how this would interact with the Duty setting. Initially instead of dropping Duty 4 clicks I tried changing Delay up/down a bit but that didn't make a difference. Just seems like delay throws off color. Is there a clearer way to know whether a Delay adjustment is needed or would be helpful?


Thanks!


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21001853
> 
> 
> Thanks! Could you kindly describe in detail the process you use to perform the fine tuning? Like maybe provide a specific scene/frame from Tangled or Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs that I should pause and use as the reference? And then how to know which control to try and what to look for before reversing etc?
> 
> 
> Here's what I've done so far... I got it into Fine Tuning mode and by default the Duty (amber) lights were almost maxed out - the last light was just a tad dimmer. Things look very good in this situation, but I figured, hey I'm a calibrator so why not try to tweak it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So then I took the Duty all the way up so it was as bright as it went. I noticed some ghosting on a particular scene and compared it to my NXG glasses which did not ghost.
> 
> 
> So then I lowered the Duty by 4 clicks to the left. At that point just about all the ghosting was gone. Technically it should be more like 6 or 7 clicks, but I decided to run it a little "hot" just to make the tradeoff that I'd take a little ghosting here and there in exchange for a brighter image.
> 
> 
> Anyway, it was pretty clear how to adjust the Duty. But for the Delay, I really didn't how what to look for or how this would interact with the Duty setting. Initially instead of dropping Duty 4 clicks I tried changing Delay up/down a bit but that didn't make a difference. Just seems like delay throws off color. Is there a clearer way to know whether a Delay adjustment is needed or would be helpful?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



My method of fine tuning is quite simple. I wait until the disk loads up the Options menu for the movie, which I hope is also in 3D of course. Reason I prefer it, I use the text matter to adjust out ghosting. Usually text is best depending on what colors they chose is highly contrasty with it's background; i.e. white letters against black background.


Once I've minimized the text ghosting with DELAY, I don't really care what the scene background looks like except for it's brightness level which is then tweaked with DUTY. If the Duty cycle brings back the ghost you might try tweak Delay again but then you might just determine your better off just backing the brightness down instead.


The reason I said in the 2nd paragraph I don't care much what the scene background looks like is because of the possibility of imperfections in the scene. So it's not worth trying to tune against a source that may have it's own set of flaws.


One thing that gets overlooked is when Delay is maxed out is the possiblity of inadvertently reversing Polarity; unless of course you want to.


In your case, it is best to start over, unless of course your are satisfied, and enter tuning mode and zero out all the LEDS. Start for instance with just 1 AMBER Duty cycle LED and then adjust out any ghosting with Delay. If good then gradually up Duty (brightness).


The clearest way you know Delay is properly set is by image sharpness, no ghost.


I've mentioned in the past that once these adjustments are made you are done. Well that is only true if the source display is not changed, the same playback device is used. If for instance you got things adjusted for your Blu-Ray and then decided to watch cable 3D then you might have to retune.


Also some 3D Blu-Rays may have reversed polarity but since my collection is small at this point, I haven't experienced it as yet.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21002545
> 
> 
> My method of fine tuning is quite simple. I wait until the disk loads up the Options menu for the movie, which I hope is also in 3D of course. Reason I prefer it, I use the text matter to adjust out ghosting. Usually text is best depending on what colors they chose is highly contrasty with it's background; i.e. white letters against black background.
> 
> 
> Once I've minimized the text ghosting with DELAY, I don't really care what the scene background looks like except for it's brightness level which is then tweaked with DUTY. If the Duty cycle brings back the ghost you might try tweak Delay again but then you might just determine your better off just backing the brightness down instead.
> 
> 
> The reason I said in the 2nd paragraph I don't care much what the scene background looks like is because of the possibility of imperfections in the scene. So it's not worth trying to tune against a source that may have it's own set of flaws.
> 
> 
> One thing that gets overlooked is when Delay is maxed out is the possiblity of inadvertently reversing Polarity; unless of course you want to.
> 
> 
> In your case, it is best to start over, unless of course your are satisfied, and enter tuning mode and zero out all the LEDS. Start for instance with just 1 AMBER Duty cycle LED and then adjust out any ghosting with Delay. If good then gradually up Duty (brightness).
> 
> 
> The clearest way you know Delay is properly set is by image sharpness, no ghost.
> 
> 
> I've mentioned in the past that once these adjustments are made you are done. Well that is only true if the source display is not changed, the same playback device is used. If for instance you got things adjusted for your Blu-Ray and then decided to watch cable 3D then you might have to retune.
> 
> 
> Also some 3D Blu-Rays may have reversed polarity but since my collection is small at this point, I haven't experienced it as yet.



Thanks. When I did some testing yesterday I tried moving the DELAY in each direction. Didn't seem to affect ghosting AT ALL but it did make the colors get out of whack and also made things look grainy.


I'm curious about your technique - it seems to be based on using DELAY as the primary control, and DUTY as the secondary control for fine tuning from there.


However I would think it would be reversed, because ultimately don't we want to find the brightest possible setting (highest DUTY) that we can run without introducing ghosting? So I would think ideally we'd adjust DUTY until ghosting first appears, then use DELAY to try and fine tune that so we could have the highest duty without ghosting, no?


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21002859
> 
> 
> Thanks. When I did some testing yesterday I tried moving the DELAY in each direction. Didn't seem to affect ghosting AT ALL but it did make the colors get out of whack and also made things look grainy.
> 
> 
> I'm curious about your technique - it seems to be based on using DELAY as the primary control, and DUTY as the secondary control for fine tuning from there.
> 
> 
> However I would think it would be reversed, because ultimately don't we want to find the brightest possible setting (highest DUTY) that we can run without introducing ghosting? So I would think ideally we'd adjust DUTY until ghosting first appears, then use DELAY to try and fine tune that so we could have the highest duty without ghosting, no?



You know at 63 I may indeed have it backwards, as it has been a while since I've used my system. There are several 3D BDs coming out to add to my small collection so I haven't been motivated to watch the two I have repeatedly..Har!


Anyway if I am indeed wrong, by all means reverse the terms I've used.


Thanks for pointing it out just same.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21002973
> 
> 
> You know at 63 I may indeed have it backwards, as it has been a while since I've used my system. There are several 3D BDs coming out to add to my small collection so I haven't been motivated to watch the two I have repeatedly..Har!
> 
> 
> Anyway if I am indeed wrong, by all means reverse the terms I've used.
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing it out just same.



No problem.







So then just to confirm you are thinking that you adjust the brightness of the glasses, then look to fine tune with the delay setting? For me I can't seem to get any benefit from delay.


Anyway I think I'm going to leave things where they are. Its a bit juiced (brighter) than the default with a tad bit of ghosting at time. I could take the duty down a tad to tighten that up, but I prefer the brighter image. Thanks again for all the help.


These glasses (and its lock-on system) are definitely the best I've tried (Samsung glasses, NXG glasses, and Xpand 103s). That's most important so I am OK with overlooking their user manual shortcomings which led to quite a bit of initial frustration and wasted time.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21003497
> 
> 
> No problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So then just to confirm you are thinking that you adjust the brightness of the glasses, then look to fine tune with the delay setting? For me I can't seem to get any benefit from delay.
> 
> 
> Anyway I think I'm going to leave things where they are. Its a bit juiced (brighter) than the default with a tad bit of ghosting at time. I could take the duty down a tad to tighten that up, but I prefer the brighter image. Thanks again for all the help.
> 
> 
> These glasses (and its lock-on system) are definitely the best I've tried (Samsung glasses, NXG glasses, and Xpand 103s). That's most important so I am OK with overlooking their user manual shortcomings which led to quite a bit of initial frustration and wasted time.



I give priority to eliminating ghosting and then adjust brightness to a level which I hope it will not reappear. With a front projector depending on how many lumens one has to work with, someone might differ.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21013053
> 
> 
> I give priority to eliminating ghosting and then adjust brightness to a level which I hope it will not reappear. With a front projector depending on how many lumens one has to work with, someone might differ.



Yea it was odd - in my case no adjustment of the Delay in either direction impacted ghosting. The only thing that made a difference was reducing brightness 4 clicks from the max Duty cycle.


----------



## lovingdvd

What type of battery life are you guys seeing so far out of your glasses?


I got mine last week. Fully charged them for several hours (until the red light was basically light but pulsing slightly, which I presume means "fully charged"). When turning them on afterward I received 3 blinks


I probably only have around 10 hours of use on the glasses, and they are already giving me the 6 blinks. According to the manual this means somewhere between 10% and 50% remaining.


So in a best case scenario, let's say it means 50% remaining in this case. That means a max battery charge only gives me 20 hours? That's pretty lousy. I'm wondering if there may be something wrong with the battery. The literature for the product says "up to 60 hours". So even if we assume that's a stretch and its really say 40 hours, that means I still only got 50% of that on a brand new battery.


I'm curious if others have a feel for how many hours they get with the glasses and if my scenario sounds normal in comparison.


I like rechargeable glasses but would actually prefer to just change a batter if it meant less time between replacing batteries compared to charging.


I'm a bit concerned for two reasons: 1) Its a PITA to keep charging multiple pairs of glasses every couple weeks, and 2) its likely that as time goes on I'll get fewer hours out of a charge, requiring even more changing!


----------



## lovingdvd

On all pairs of my glasses I have to press the power button twice, back to back, for the glasses to turn on. If I just press it once, nothing happens.


The owners manual make it sound like you only have to press it once. I know the button can be tricky to press, but that being said, I am certain I am pressing it both times. And this happens every times (requires two presses) on each pair of glasses.


Its not just me, right? Seems odd they would require two presses to turn them on. The button is such that its not very convenient to press it in the first place and yet they want us to press it twice. For little kids the button isn't so easy to press.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21019503
> 
> 
> What type of battery life are you guys seeing so far out of your glasses?...
> 
> I'm a bit concerned for two reasons: 1) Its a PITA to keep charging multiple pairs of glasses every couple weeks, and 2) its likely that as time goes on I'll get fewer hours out of a charge, requiring even more changing!



It is better for lit-ion to charge often. A way you could manage is number each pair and make a habit of charging 1 pair (rotating) after each 3D viewing. This way you don't have to worry about life (and they will last longer with longer batt life) and you just plug in the next pair in rotation and forget.


----------



## rgathright

Is there everything I would need for two sets of glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A228GNTXW0TH0L


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgathright* /forum/post/21034447
> 
> 
> Is there everything I would need for two sets of glasses.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A228GNTXW0TH0L



Yes. One emitter will control all the glasses.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21019503
> 
> 
> What type of battery life are you guys seeing so far out of your glasses?
> 
> 
> I got mine last week. Fully charged them for several hours (until the red light was basically light but pulsing slightly, which I presume means "fully charged"). When turning them on afterward I received 3 blinks
> 
> 
> I probably only have around 10 hours of use on the glasses, and they are already giving me the 6 blinks. According to the manual this means somewhere between 10% and 50% remaining.
> 
> 
> So in a best case scenario, let's say it means 50% remaining in this case. That means a max battery charge only gives me 20 hours? That's pretty lousy. I'm wondering if there may be something wrong with the battery. The literature for the product says "up to 60 hours". So even if we assume that's a stretch and its really say 40 hours, that means I still only got 50% of that on a brand new battery.
> 
> 
> I'm curious if others have a feel for how many hours they get with the glasses and if my scenario sounds normal in comparison.
> 
> 
> I like rechargeable glasses but would actually prefer to just change a batter if it meant less time between replacing batteries compared to charging.
> 
> 
> I'm a bit concerned for two reasons: 1) Its a PITA to keep charging multiple pairs of glasses every couple weeks, and 2) its likely that as time goes on I'll get fewer hours out of a charge, requiring even more changing!



Is it possible the glasses are still receiving an RF signal from the transmitter when you are not using them? If so, they will not timeout ... just in case you left something on.


If that is not the case, there were a small lot of Bit Cauldron glasses produced for VIP3D which had the wrong charging resistor installed during production. This caused the glasses to never reach full value.


The Monster RF glasses are the same but whether some of those are affected is unclear. If you are not holding charge properly then you need to contact Monster.


How many pairs do you have and are all of them acting similarly? If only one pair is affected then possibly it was from the bad lot.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21019518
> 
> 
> On all pairs of my glasses I have to press the power button twice, back to back, for the glasses to turn on. If I just press it once, nothing happens.
> 
> 
> The owners manual make it sound like you only have to press it once. I know the button can be tricky to press, but that being said, I am certain I am pressing it both times. And this happens every times (requires two presses) on each pair of glasses.
> 
> 
> Its not just me, right? Seems odd they would require two presses to turn them on. The button is such that its not very convenient to press it in the first place and yet they want us to press it twice. For little kids the button isn't so easy to press.



I never did like that switch but you shouldn't need to do a double press. Just gradually increase downward pressure until they come on. On most of them it does take pretty firm pressure just to make such a small switch. They have a decent amount of gap between the button and switch.


Hopefully they will go to a slide switch instead of using the timeout function but then some folks would prolly forget to turn them off...oh well.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21036708
> 
> 
> Is it possible the glasses are still receiving an RF signal from the transmitter when you are not using them? If so, they will not timeout ... just in case you left something on.
> 
> 
> If that is not the case, there were a small lot of Bit Cauldron glasses produced for VIP3D which had the wrong charging resistor installed during production. This caused the glasses to never reach full value.
> 
> 
> The Monster RF glasses are the same but whether some of those are affected is unclear. If you are not holding charge properly then you need to contact Monster.
> 
> 
> How many pairs do you have and are all of them acting similarly? If only one pair is affected then possibly it was from the bad lot.



Hi thanks for the response. Definitely not receiving an RF signal longer than I expect. 5 minutes after the 3D transmission from the TV stops, the glasses turn off as expected.


This is happening with both pairs of glasses. After about 10 hours (estimated) of use they are flashing 6 times. So I take it that means about 20 hours of viewing on a full charge. Seems a long way off from the "up to 60 hours" I saw in the info.


Upon a full charge when still in the charger, do your glasses basically light up continuously except for a small pulse every half second or so?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21036720
> 
> 
> I never did like that switch but you shouldn't need to do a double press. Just gradually increase downward pressure until they come on. On most of them it does take pretty firm pressure just to make such a small switch. They have a decent amount of gap between the button and switch.
> 
> 
> Hopefully they will go to a slide switch instead of using the timeout function but then some folks would prolly forget to turn them off...oh well.



Yea I am pretty sure I am pressing it all the way the first time. Both pairs seem to require two presses, every time.


I don't mind the automatic turn off. But I'd really like to see they add the ability to press or press and hold to turn the glasses off. Several times someone will join in during a movie and then leave early. So then the glasses are on but not in use for another 2 hours during the rest of the movie. Couple that with the fact that I only seem to get about 10 hours from a pair before I hit the 50% charge level it makes it that much more frustrating!


----------



## lovingdvd

I've had the Monster glasses for about a week. If the glasses were off, and I connected them to the USB for charging, the glasses would turn on and flash, then go out 5 minutes later.


However tonight I plugged in a pair that was off and nothing happened. They did not flash or turn on or anything. Then I grabbed my second pair that was off. Connected it to the USB and again, nothing happened.


If I turn on either of the glasses, I get 3 blinks and they work fine. However I am concerned that they are not going to charge now.


This is really odd. It couldn't be that both pair of glasses went bad with the charging at the same time, could it??







What else would explain this? I am positive that previously the glasses would turn on once connected to USB...


Edit: Forgot to mention that I also tried switching charging cables just to rule out that something may have gone wrong with the cable itself - however this did not make any difference. Same result (i.e. does not appear to be charging based on the lights). I'm going to let it charge overnight and see if its pulsing red in the morning like it usually does when the charge is done.


----------



## sddp

I also just got the monstervision with ir to rf emitter and also have the xpand102. I am using this on a Mits DLP using the 3D-A and for some reason I am able to use both at the same time. I was under the impression that you can either use active shutter or dlp link glasses and not both?


----------



## mark88da

Hello every body.


I would like to get this Monster vision max 3D pack, but to get them to Denmark is a really hard thing to do. Can any of you help me?


I got the benq w700 (See it at the projectorcentral)


And i also got the ati radeon 6970


(See the AMD site)


I have researched for a really long time now, and i now that i have to get a Nvidia graphic-card to get the best 3D graphics, but i just got the ATI/AMD card...


So can you help me, to get this glasses somehow? I tried to send a e-mail to monster, but there is no response...



Sorry for my spelling mistakes between.


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark88da* /forum/post/21053550
> 
> 
> Hello every body.
> 
> 
> I would like to get this Monster vision max 3D pack, but to get them to Denmark is a really hard thing to do. Can any of you help me?
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> So can you help me, to get this glasses somehow? I tried to send a e-mail to monster, but there is no response...



Amazon.com will ship to Denmark, so what's the problem?

Monster also has an international page, with links to European suppliers:
http://www.monstercable.com/international/ 


The main issue may be the 50hz electrical; you'll need to find out if usb will work ok for power, as I don't know if you'll get a C or K adapter to work.


----------



## William




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebard* /forum/post/21054374
> 
> 
> ...The main issue may be the 50hz electrical; you'll need to find out if usb will work ok for power, as I don't know if you'll get a C or K adapter to work.



Even this issue is easy to overcome. Simply plug them into your PC to charge.


----------



## mark88da

Well i tried both things, but with no luck... Amazon is saying that they cannot ship it to Denmark, when i'm writing my address.And in the monster site when i find the nearest dealer it is in Sweden, and they don't have the 3D glasses too










You can try with this zip code: 2750 And city is Ballerup. Then take a random address, if you wanna try yourself.


----------



## HDholic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sddp* /forum/post/21051909
> 
> 
> I also just got the monstervision with ir to rf emitter and also have the xpand102. I am using this on a Mits DLP using the 3D-A and for some reason I am able to use both at the same time. I was under the impression that you can either use active shutter or dlp link glasses and not both?



I also considered the Monsters or Optomas replica so I'm happy that they work with the dlp (at same time as dlp link is a bonus). Do the Monsters get rid of the dlp link "tint" of your set? I have a Samsung Dlp and hope it does. How is the pic quality?


Do you have any IR glasses? Wonder if they would work at the same time with the RF Monster glasses.


----------



## sddp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDholic* /forum/post/21061639
> 
> 
> I also considered the Monsters or Optomas replica so I'm happy that they work with the dlp (at same time as dlp link is a bonus). Do the Monsters get rid of the dlp link "tint" of your set? I have a Samsung Dlp and hope it does. How is the pic quality?
> 
> 
> Do you have any IR glasses? Wonder if they would work at the same time with the RF Monster glasses.




No, I don't have any IR glasses nor am I using an IR emitter. PS3 to the

Mits 3D-A then to the TV. And then the monster 3d vesa pi directly to the back of the TV.I didn't notice any "tint" or anything like that, the only annoying issue is the buzzing sound which I called Monster tech support on and they said that's how the shutter glasses work and that they are not defective. Fortunately my theater system is quite loud so only an issue when I pause. Now I did call xpand, Monster, and Mits tech support and neither one could answer my question and told me to call the other (typical). From what they all told me, this is not possible, 2nd that the Monstervision should be plugged into the back of the Mits 3D-A and not the TV.

Only thing I am not sure of and no one knew the answer is when I go to the 3D mode and turn it on, I also have the option of "standard" or "reverse" mode. anyone know which I should be in?


However, a few things I'd like to point out, the Monster is a bit brighter and more natural where as the x102 is slightly darker and a bit more vivid in colors. I got both to test out which was better. It was a tough decision, but I think I am keeping the Monster version.

Here's a few things I did when A/B testing both (and yes there were times I had one on top of the other to switch back and forth).


Did this with a 3D native movie and other Blu-Ray's using 3D-Bee converter box.


Reason going with the Monstervision (despite the annoying buzzing) is that they are rechargeable, bit brighter and more natural, no loss of 3D. And Xpand is coming out with x104 end of the year'ish that use the RF system as well and will rechargeable.


The X102 are great, but the fact that I have to change batteries (even though they are rated at 120 hours) and that the batteries are so proprietary (not the usual kind you can just go to rite-aid) killed it for me.


----------



## HDholic

sddp, the "tint" that I mention is a well known occurrence with DLP "3d ready" sets. On the Mits, when switching to 3d the dlp link signal tints blacks green/blue hue while on Samsungs blacks get tinted red. You'd see it without wearing the glasses after turning 3d mode on. With some glasses, you don't see the tint (wearing the glasses) and blacks appear black. I wondered if the Monsters get rid of it if your set displays the tinted blacks.


----------



## ftlee

All of the "active" 3D glasses I have looked at and tried, the lens on the inside of the glasses looks like a mirror. They reflect whatever is behind you on to the glasses. It is annoying to look at that while watching a movie (I see the movie and vertical blinds from a window behind me). Are these the same way?


Thanks,


-ftlee


----------



## ftlee

I have a Mits WD-65838. If I buy the RF Monster Glasses are they truly "plug-and-play" or, am I going to have to "tweak" them to get them working right?


Thanks,


-ftlee


----------



## HDholic

I use them w a Samsung DLP and they pretty much plug and play.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ftlee* /forum/post/21123925
> 
> 
> I have a Mits WD-65838. If I buy the RF Monster Glasses are they truly "plug-and-play" or, am I going to have to "tweak" them to get them working right?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> -ftlee



If "plug n Play" to you means just powering them up and viewing without any

tuning for best picture, then they are not plug n play.


It does take some finesse in tweaking the duty and delay cycle with a little

patience thrown in.


After they are set then those settings are stored in the transmitter but if you change displays or playback device then they will more than likely need retuning which will overwrite the previous setting. So if you go back to the first device tuned you will need to tune it again because of the changes.


----------



## RolfHult

Anyone know if the VIP 3D emitter should work ok with the Jvc?


I got VIP emitter and 6 x glasses, but cannot get the emitter to "link" with the Jvc.










Anyone tested this combo ?


Tvix M-6500 > Jvc X3


----------



## ftlee

Are these glasses being "discontinued"? I cannot find just the glasses in-stock anywhere not even on Monster's website. All I can find are the glasses/emitter kits available.


Thanks,


-ftlee


----------



## RolfHult

Got the vip glasses to work on the X3...3d looks so good now


----------



## space2001




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RolfHult* /forum/post/21184681
> 
> 
> Got the vip glasses to work on the X3...3d looks so good now



I have the JVC glasses for the rs40, Do these look better. Also my screen retains some polarization, will this be darker then the JVC glasses.


Thanks


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *space2001* /forum/post/21184919
> 
> 
> I have the JVC glasses for the rs40, Do these look better. Also my screen retains some polarization, will this be darker then the JVC glasses.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Monster glasses will be darker with a JVC projector. Flip the glasses upside down and the image will be a lot brighter. Polarized light coming from the JVC doesn't match the monster or VIP glasses.


----------



## ftlee

Can someone please tell me if these glasses have reflections on the inside of the lenses from objects behind your seating position?


Thanks,


Frank


----------



## HDholic

Yes ftlee. However if the picture completely fills your field of view its not a problem as reflections get lost, otherwise they are visible.


----------



## franakin

Hi ! I just got the MV kit, and, trying to sync it with my Sony VW95 PJ, it doesn't seem to catch the signal, although I placed the IR sensor right in front of the unit for like 3'. Nothing, only red lights desperately searching for a signal even though Tron 3D was on in glorious 3D. Any advice would be very appreciated !


Thanks !


----------



## Deimos7777

Those glasses are compatible with Panasonic PT-AE7000/PT-AT5000 ? i already bought my VPR...but i wanna get some glasses..and i dont like original TY-EW3D3...


thx


----------



## Deepsky4565

I'm using these with a RS50, without an IR emitter, but the RF emitter plugged directly into the projector. This seems to be problematic, almost random. I was wondering if anyone else out there uses theirs this way, and if they also have issues with sync. Sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes it won't sync unless I mess with unplugging and replugging the power and emitter wires to the RF unit, and other times it just will not sync no matter what I do.


Also, I cannot seem to get the Monster software to connect to the RF emitter while it is also plugged into the JVC. This makes it useless to adjust parameters. Any work arounds to this?


Thanks, I hope someone can help!


----------



## lovingdvd

I used Fine Tuning mode by using just the joystick, not with the software. Now that it is dialed in perfectly I would like to capture the values of the two parameters for future reference.


However, when I connect the Monstervision box to my PC and run the software, it just defaults to showing values of 20 and 10 for the two parameters. I know for certain these are not my numbers (not anywhere close).


Is there a way to read with the software (or otherwise) what the numbers are? If not I guess I will have to tune it with the PC from scratch - would rather not have to go there and risk not dialing it back in as good as I have it.


BTW I am using this with the Sony VW95 and it works incredibly well. Much better than the Sony glasses as anyone familiar with the Monstervision glasses will not be surprised.


----------



## thrang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ftlee* /forum/post/21186997
> 
> 
> Can someone please tell me if these glasses have reflections on the inside of the lenses from objects behind your seating position?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Frank



Yes, just about any 3D glasses I have/had do however...


----------



## A.West

franakin - did you push the plug all the way in? For the first 5 minutes I didn't push the minijack all the way in, so got searching red dots. When I pushed a bit harder, it was able to start working.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *A.West* /forum/post/21280829
> 
> 
> franakin - did you push the plug all the way in? For the first 5 minutes I didn't push the minijack all the way in, so got searching red dots. When I pushed a bit harder, it was able to start working.



+1 the jack is really stiff. I am always worried I'm going to break the thing given the pressure I sometimes have to use to get it to fully fit in the plug.


----------



## franakin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21280939
> 
> 
> +1 the jack is really stiff. I am always worried I'm going to break the thing given the pressure I sometimes have to use to get it to fully fit in the plug.



Pushed it all the way in, viking style. It's working nicely now...Still, I've been used to sturdier Monster products...


----------



## billqs

I have an ACER H5360 and am looking for really good but not impossibly expensive RF shutter glasses.


Does anyone know if the Monster transmitter would get a signal from a DVI Sync Splitter? The DVI Sync Splitter takes the sync out of the DVI port before passing the signal on to projector.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21280939
> 
> 
> +1 the jack is really stiff. I am always worried I'm going to break the thing given the pressure I sometimes have to use to get it to fully fit in the plug.



Just put a light coat of petroleum jelly across the plug, don't glob it on. And don't worry it doesn't interfere electrically. Just kinda moisten your fingers with it and rotate the plug.


----------



## Ambush083

Currently I'm using a pair of NXG Technology glasses for my UN46C7000 Sammy. Would buying these glasses make a big difference? I mean, does anyone notice a big difference to justify the purchase. LMK.


----------



## HDholic

I briefly owned a pair of these Monsters and compared them to 2 pairs of Dlp-link glasses, TrueDepth (overpriced by the way) and Mitsubishi from Dlp 3d starter kit. Basically, they all looked the same surprisingly (except the Monsters didn't block dlp-link signal). I've comes to a conclusion that more money doesn't really make a difference in picture quality. Where the Monsters succeed is in comfort ( slightly better than the Mitsubishi) and RF signal stability. The Monsters do have a slight buzz though.


Btw, the Optomas are a clone of these which you might find cheaper.


----------



## Ambush083




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDholic* /forum/post/21351307
> 
> 
> I briefly owned a pair of these Monsters and compared them to 2 pairs of Dlp-link glasses, TrueDepth (overpriced by the way) and Mitsubishi from Dlp 3d starter kit. Basically, they all looked the same surprisingly (except the Monsters didn't block dlp-link signal). I've comes to a conclusion that more money doesn't really make a difference in picture quality. Where the Monsters succeed is in comfort ( slightly better than the Mitsubishi) and RF signal stability. The Monsters do have a slight buzz though.
> 
> 
> Btw, the Optomas are a clone of these which you might find cheaper.



Optomas. I'll have to look into it. I saw the Sammy glasses dropped to about $30 at my local Best Buy. That's a good thing. Don't think they are rechargable, but for that price you can't beat it. At least I haven't seen anything yet.


I think what it boils down to is the movies made in 3D are not all created equal. Like, when I think 3D I want objects jumping out of the screen. A few scenes in Tron did that, Green Hornet did alright in some scenes. I'm totally going off topic, but I think I'm just expecting too much too soon in the 3D movie industry.


----------



## HDholic

At $30 it's a no-brainer. I wouldn't really worry about it. You are correct in users expecting objects constantly flying out at you when thinking 3d. It should be viewed as an enhancement to movies in making you feel like you are more part of it with its depth. However, the best experience comes from a large display or it fails to impress.


----------



## Shepardos

I just received my Monster Vision 3D glasses but unfortunately the upgrade always failed. I try to upgrade from 1.04.005 to 1.05.004. I use a Mac with VM Ware Windows XP image. I also tested it with Win7 and it always breaks after 2 seconds. I only see the red light in the middle of the transmitter.


Any feedback why this is not working?


Thanks

Cheers

Shepardos


----------



## Shepardos

solved my update issue with an PC! The software is not VM ware compatible in terms of FW upgrade!!


----------



## Ambush083




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shepardos* /forum/post/21356441
> 
> 
> solved my update issue with an PC! The software is not VM ware compatible in terms of FW upgrade!!



That's some good information, I'm a VM user myself. I have VM Fusion on my MAC and good ol' VMware on my PC.


----------



## tanwn1

anybody knows what the upgrade v1.05 does?


----------



## jpvision

Got these this weekend. Overall the are very good. A big improvement over the Sony glasses that came with my set. Got rid of a lot of the cross talk I was seeing on my NX810 and I can move my head when watching. Set up took less than 5 minutes. My only complaint is the button on the glasses is a little difficult the push. I would recommend to anyone with a Sony 3D set. Well worth the money.


----------



## vjren

I am using these glasses and see a phenomenon I can not name and also not solve.


Using the Optoma system glasses on a HD83.


And I got the chance to compare with dlplink glasses on the same projector.


Pictures were taken through the 3D glasses in the middle with a kodak playsport (no optical zoom/focus and no flash)


Attached images show the bug.


100_0001srfr

rf glasses right side

tower of venice cyan color band on the right


100_0002srfl

rf glasses left side

tower of venice cyan color band on the left


My next post will show the same images with the DLP link glasses.


----------



## vjren

Now the same images with dlplink


100_0003sdlpr

dlp glasses right side

no problem


100_0004sdlpl

dlp glasses left side

no problem


In the time since making these pictures I have contacted Optoma but this is beyond their current understanding.


It is not only this media that show this, IMAX bugs also has scenes where I can clearly see the issue. Media by the way is played SBS from media player using SBS mode on the HD83.


I am under the impression these are the same glasses as the bitcauldron and monstervision


The RF transmitter is connected to the HD83, I have not calibrated delay or duty cycle as first I would like to know if what we see as problem has a name, I this is just plain ghosting on a DLP and nothing can be done I will sign off of and be ashamed.


If more people can test this maybe I can find a solution or at least a cause.


On newsgroup indexing sites this search should turn up the file I used to test:

"venice+sbs+3d"


Thanks


----------



## zkidz

The RF transmitter is connected to the HD83, I have not calibrated delay or duty cycle as first I would like to know if what we see as problem has a name, I this is just plain ghosting on a DLP and nothing can be done I will sign off of and be ashamed.


Ghosting is very rare on DLP but this is could be what ghosting caused by mismatched glasses timings would look like, since the DLPs refresh the screen many times per frame with different colors/intensities. Tune the glasses; it will probably go away.


----------



## vjren

@ zkidz


But why would it only ghost in some area (tower) and not in the complete image?


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vjren* /forum/post/21373549
> 
> 
> @ zkidz
> 
> 
> But why would it only ghost in some area (tower) and not in the complete image?



try running your optoma in DLP-Link mode but try again with the RF Glasses. Like another poster verified for themselves, i'm seeing a better 3d image with RF's in DLP-Link (better than the dlp-link glasses look, and better than the RF's in the "proper" RF mode).


----------



## vjren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21373945
> 
> 
> try running your optoma in DLP-Link mode but try again with the RF Glasses. Like another poster verified for themselves, i'm seeing a better 3d image with RF's in DLP-Link (better than the dlp-link glasses look, and better than the RF's in the "proper" RF mode).



Sorry, but I tried this and there is no 3D effect with DLP glasses in RF mode (logically) and also no 3D effect in DLP link mode with RF glasses, so I don't know what you did.


DLP link mode adds red to the image, not good for RF image anyway..?


----------



## guitarman

Looks like contrast crushing to me. Freeze the scene and lower the contrast till the activity goes away. Remember the factory number and put it back for other material.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vjren* /forum/post/21374184
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I tried this and there is no 3D effect with DLP glasses in RF mode (logically) and also no 3D effect in DLP link mode with RF glasses, so I don't know what you did.
> 
> 
> DLP link mode adds red to the image, not good for RF image anyway..?



people with the HD33 have tried the RF Glasses in DLP-Link mode and found good results. I'm not sure why it works, but it does and it looks great.


When I switch to DLP Glasses and go back and forth, the RF glasses have more 3d depth and the red flash is not an issue. If anything, the DLP Link glasses are too green (in order to offset the red?)


anyway, check out the posts in the HD33/3300 thread, i'm not the only one to see these results.


----------



## AmigoHD

Just wanted to let you know that I've done the update from 1.04.005 to 1.05.004 on the rebaged Optoma RF Emitter / glasses. Seems to work fine. But honestly, they worked flawless before already. I don't anything worse or better now.

But the update worked.


edit:

seems not to work fine. I get some strange ghosting.

Can anybody tell me the original settings for Delay (usecs) and Duty Cycle (10-120%) of the Optoma emitter?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AmigoHD* /forum/post/21375248
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that I've done the update from 1.04.005 to 1.05.004 on the rebaged Optoma RF Emitter / glasses. Seems to work fine. But honestly, they worked flawless before already. I don't anything worse or better now.
> 
> But the update worked.



Does anyone know when 1.05.004 came out and what it addresses?


----------



## AmigoHD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21375274
> 
> 
> Does anyone know when 1.05.004 came out and what it addresses?



edit:

seems not to work fine. I get some strange ghosting.

Can anybody tell me the original settings for Delay (usecs) and Duty Cycle (10-120%) of the Optoma emitter?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AmigoHD* /forum/post/21375521
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> seems not to work fine. I get some strange ghosting.
> 
> Can anybody tell me the original settings for Delay (usecs) and Duty Cycle (10-120%) of the Optoma emitter?



Important to note that the default settings for those are DEVICE dependent. So if it is talking to a Sony device it will use different defaults than a Samsung, for example. You can reset it to the factory default and then see what the default is, but unless someone has your same device you cannot go by their defaults.


----------



## AmigoHD

I have done a factory reset. The ghosting is still there. I even tried to reset the glasses itself and resync them, still the same ghosting and almost no depth.

Out of the box I had NO ghosting at all.


I am using an Optoma HD83 (HD8300 in the us).

Maybe this may help.


PS. Even in DLP Link Mode there is the same amount of ghosting.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AmigoHD* /forum/post/21375758
> 
> 
> I have done a factory reset. The ghosting is still there. I even tried to reset the glasses itself and resync them, still the same ghosting and almost no depth.
> 
> Out of the box I had NO ghosting at all.
> 
> 
> I am using an Optoma HD83 (HD8300 in the us).
> 
> Maybe this may help.
> 
> 
> PS. Even in DLP Link Mode there is the same amount of ghosting.



Maybe somehow it is inverted. Try flipping the glasses 180 degrees (put them on upside down). Does that make a difference?


----------



## AmigoHD

got it to work again by manual fine tuning on the rf emitter.


----------



## zkidz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vjren* /forum/post/21373549
> 
> 
> But why would it only ghost in some area (tower) and not in the complete image?



Probably because the tower is a certain shade. Depending on what order the intensity bitmasks are rendered on your particular DLP set, certain shades of certain color components will have (relatively) major levels that are closer to the frame porches, and thus the first to be affected if the glasses drift off center.


Or less technically "because DLP is really very weird that way."


----------



## vjren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/21377569
> 
> 
> Probably because the tower is a certain shade. Depending on what order the intensity bitmasks are rendered on your particular DLP set, certain shades of certain color components will have (relatively) major levels that are closer to the frame porches, and thus the first to be affected if the glasses drift off center.
> 
> 
> Or less technically "because DLP is really very weird that way."



Right, I will try to see if adjustment works.


Funny thing is many people are complaining about brightness in 3D, but if really bright their whole room gets lit from light reflection on screen and it backfires through reflection in the glasses. Unless in a bat cave maybe


Anyone now of a fancy way to limit reflection inside the glasses? Spray? Screenprotector, or just wear a a black heat


----------



## stevegravley

Where are you guys buying these?


----------



## ccotenj

^^^


i bought mine from mike at the avs store... price was good and service is great...


----------



## stevegravley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccotenj* /forum/post/21379614
> 
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> i bought mine from mike at the avs store... price was good and service is great...



That's what I'll do then. I bought my RS45 from Mike. I just didn't know if they were re-sellers.


----------



## brahby

Are we allowed to discuss the price you paid? Im looking to get a set or two for my nx810. Trying to weigh out if it is worth it. I notice slight ghosting on this set with certain movies, mainly bolt 3d and re: afterlife but I believe both of these have had reports of having more ghosting than other films so I don't know if it is worth the cost for just two films


----------



## Ronomy

I know I read a few post that some people don't like the fact that there is no way to turn off the glasses when watching a movie and the glasses are in sync. Well if you hold down the power button until the red LED goes off then release it the LED will flash for a while and then the glasses will shut off and not resync with the emitter. I tried this twice last night and it worked both times.


Ron


----------



## msamblanet

I just got some Monstervision 3d glasses for my JVC RS-45. I've read posts around that I should just need to plug it into the 3d connector and it should be fine but I am not seeing this


I tried factory resets and upgrading to the latest firmware but none of that helped...


I finally got them working, but to make it work, I had to provide USB power 1st, then connect it to the RS-45. If I connect to the RS-45 directly (without USB power applied 1st), it does not scan for a signal and seems to come up in "firmware upgrade" mode (middle led lit red)


Once it is working, I can remove the USB power and it is fine


Has anybody here seen a similar problem using the MV glasses with the VESA connector? I'm trying to determine if my transmitter is defectiveadding a USB power brick is not a big deal but if something else is wrong, I'd rather get the defective unit replaced.


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msamblanet* /forum/post/21396130
> 
> 
> I just got some Monstervision 3d glasses for my JVC RS-45. I've read posts around that I should just need to plug it into the 3d connector and it should be fine but I am not seeing this
> 
> 
> I tried factory resets and upgrading to the latest firmware but none of that helped...
> 
> 
> I finally got them working, but to make it work, I had to provide USB power 1st, then connect it to the RS-45. If I connect to the RS-45 directly (without USB power applied 1st), it does not scan for a signal and seems to come up in "firmware upgrade" mode (middle led lit red)
> 
> 
> Once it is working, I can remove the USB power and it is fine
> 
> 
> Has anybody here seen a similar problem using the MV glasses with the VESA connector? I'm trying to determine if my transmitter is defectiveadding a USB power brick is not a big deal but if something else is wrong, I'd rather get the defective unit replaced.



I had to supply power to mine as well. It works fine when plugged in.


----------



## msamblanet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebard* /forum/post/21396511
> 
> 
> I had to supply power to mine as well. It works fine when plugged in.



Thanks - I guess buying another black USB power brick will have to wait until tomorrow however


----------



## timgrady

To clarify supplying power to it. Do you only have to supply power to it once, then plug it into the RS45, and then it will work forever? Or do you have to supply power to it every time you want to turn on the projector and watch 3D? Would the easiest solution be to supply permanent power to it via a USB charger?

Thanks.


Tim


----------



## thebard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timgrady* /forum/post/21398250
> 
> 
> To clarify supplying power to it. Do you only have to supply power to it once, then plug it into the RS45, and then it will work forever? Or do you have to supply power to it every time you want to turn on the projector and watch 3D? Would the easiest solution be to supply permanent power to it via a USB charger?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Tim



You know, to be honest I never tried unplugging it once I plugged it in. When I first got it & it wouldn't work, I plugged it into the pc I use for streaming music & left it there.


It's convenient though, as I can access the emitter's configuration utility easliy anytime.


----------



## ccotenj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21393234
> 
> 
> Are we allowed to discuss the price you paid? Im looking to get a set or two for my nx810. Trying to weigh out if it is worth it. I notice slight ghosting on this set with certain movies, mainly bolt 3d and re: afterlife but I believe both of these have had reports of having more ghosting than other films so I don't know if it is worth the cost for just two films



iirc, it was around 130 simoleons... drop them an email or a call, they'll tell you...










can't comment as to whether they are "worth it" or not to you, but compared to the mits glasses i also have, the monsters are "worth it" for the comfort difference alone.... ymmv...


----------



## msamblanet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timgrady* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To clarify supplying power to it. Do you only have to supply power to it once, then plug it into the RS45, and then it will work forever? Or do you have to supply power to it every time you want to turn on the projector and watch 3D? Would the easiest solution be to supply permanent power to it via a USB charger?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Tim



For me, I need to have USB power before the projector turns on. I plan on using a USB wall charger (just need to go out today and find a black one so it does not stick out visually on my black drop ceiling)...


----------



## timgrady

Looks like I'm going to try a GE 14912 surge protected outlet with USB. It adds on to an existing outlet and looks fairly secure. It seems to be the lowest profile option other than buying a white USB outlet and painting it black.


Tim


----------



## vjren




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vjren* /forum/post/21373060
> 
> 
> I am using these glasses and see a phenomenon I can not name and also not solve.
> 
> 
> Using the Optoma system glasses on a HD83.
> 
> 
> And I got the chance to compare with dlplink glasses on the same projector.
> 
> 
> Pictures were taken through the 3D glasses in the middle with a kodak playsport (no optical zoom/focus and no flash)
> 
> 
> Attached images show the bug.
> 
> 
> 100_0001srfr
> 
> rf glasses right side
> 
> tower of venice cyan color band on the right
> 
> 
> 100_0002srfl
> 
> rf glasses left side
> 
> tower of venice cyan color band on the left
> 
> 
> My next post will show the same images with the DLP link glasses.



I have an update on my RF-3D glasses purple/cyan bar issue.


Using the Monstervision manual it tried to adjust the optoma rebadged one, but does not seem to correspond to the optoma unit in control operation, but I managed to adjust the settings to improve the delay and thus remove this cyan/purple bar issue


What I had to do was press the joystick right until 2 leds burn, then one tick up to control delay and it seemed to remove the issue.


Left and right adjust duty cycle or so it seems but no real benefit in there.


Conclusion is that tuning might be needed for 3D-RF systems! (sorry, but that was new to me..)


And it seems the Optoma RF- transmitter uses different operation manual, if someone knows a link?


----------



## mabuk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vjren* /forum/post/21406709
> 
> 
> And it seems the Optoma RF- transmitter uses different operation manual, if someone knows a link?


 http://www.optoma.co.uk/uploads/manu...es-M-en-GB.pdf


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mabuk* /forum/post/21415389
> 
> http://www.optoma.co.uk/uploads/manu...es-M-en-GB.pdf



I've always used the Monster manual with the Optoma glasses. As far as I can tell they operate the same.


----------



## mabuk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21415875
> 
> 
> I've always used the Monster manual with the Optoma glasses. As far as I can tell they operate the same.



The manuals have one difference that I could spot - the "SET POLARITY MODE" in the Optoma manual (page 3) replaces the "IR Signal Search and Learn" for the Monster's (page 10).


( http://www.optoma.co.uk/uploads/manu...es-M-en-GB.pdf 
http://www.monstercable.com/lit/Max_3D_manual.pdf )


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebard* /forum/post/21396511
> 
> 
> I had to supply power to mine as well. It works fine when plugged in.



I tried the unit just plugged into the 45 and it works fine without an external power supply.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21393234
> 
> 
> Are we allowed to discuss the price you paid? Im looking to get a set or two for my nx810. Trying to weigh out if it is worth it. I notice slight ghosting on this set with certain movies, mainly bolt 3d and re: afterlife but I believe both of these have had reports of having more ghosting than other films so I don't know if it is worth the cost for just two films



Do Monster 3D glasses improve crosstalk/ghosting?


----------



## jpvision

These glasses preformed much better than the Sony glasses on my NX810. Ghosting / crosstalk were reduced but not eliminated.


Since purchasing these I have stopped using a PS3 for bluray playback and am now using a Panasonic bluray player. This and the monster glasses have made 3D worth watching. Ghosting and crosstalk only crop up occasionally now.


----------



## dojoman

How do you hookup the Monster transmitter? Can you plug the Monster transmitter to Sony TV? Or you just put the IR receiver in front of Sony's?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpvision* /forum/post/21431225
> 
> 
> These glasses preformed much better than the Sony glasses on my NX810. Ghosting / crosstalk were reduced but not eliminated.
> 
> 
> Since purchasing these I have stopped using a PS3 for bluray playback and am now using a Panasonic bluray player. This and the monster glasses have made 3D worth watching. Ghosting and crosstalk only crop up occasionally now.


----------



## jpvision




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you hookup the Monster transmitter? Can you plug the Monster transmitter to Sony TV? Or you just put the IR receiver in front of Sony's?



Place receiver by the Sony emitter.


----------



## brahby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpvision* /forum/post/21431225
> 
> 
> These glasses preformed much better than the Sony glasses on my NX810. Ghosting / crosstalk were reduced but not eliminated.
> 
> 
> Since purchasing these I have stopped using a PS3 for bluray playback and am now using a Panasonic bluray player. This and the monster glasses have made 3D worth watching. Ghosting and crosstalk only crop up occasionally now.



Thank you for responding to this as I have a similar setup. My NX810 actually was picked up under the stores extended warranty for bench testing since both techs that came out admitted to seeing too much cross talk no matter what the 3d depth was set at. What caused you to ditch the PS3 for 3d playback? I have the fat one so I was thinking of either trading to someone with a slim or getting a standalone player since the fat does not support HD audio while in 3d playback and thats a big deal to me.


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21438461
> 
> 
> I have the fat one so I was thinking of either trading to someone with a slim or getting a standalone player since the fat does not support HD audio while in 3d playback and thats a big deal to me.



Why not at least for DTS? The PS3 3.70 firmware supports DTS-HD MA/HR decoding in 3D so the 'fat' PS3 could decode and send PCM audio to your receiver. Doesn't support Dolby TrueHD yet but I believe a majority of 3D releases are DTS HD.


----------



## dojoman

So do you have these glasses? I also have NX810. I do see some crosstalk in movies but it's not that bad, but really bad crosstalk in most games. I ordered these Monstervision glasses to see if they will reduce crosstalk, but I haven't receive them yet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21438461
> 
> 
> Thank you for responding to this as I have a similar setup. My NX810 actually was picked up under the stores extended warranty for bench testing since both techs that came out admitted to seeing too much cross talk no matter what the 3d depth was set at. What caused you to ditch the PS3 for 3d playback? I have the fat one so I was thinking of either trading to someone with a slim or getting a standalone player since the fat does not support HD audio while in 3d playback and thats a big deal to me.


----------



## brahby

No I do not have the glasses. I am waiting to see the result of the service call on my tv.


Also for the ps3 issue I haven't tried since 3.70 was released but I know back on like 3.63 that while watching tron 3d it didn't play the dts track it kicked it down to Dolby I think and since I do not have my ps3 I can't check it now. But prior to 3.70 wasn't it only the slims that could do hd audio while doing 3d


----------



## jpvision




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for responding to this as I have a similar setup. My NX810 actually was picked up under the stores extended warranty for bench testing since both techs that came out admitted to seeing too much cross talk no matter what the 3d depth was set at. What caused you to ditch the PS3 for 3d playback? I have the fat one so I was thinking of either trading to someone with a slim or getting a standalone player since the fat does not support HD audio while in 3d playback and thats a big deal to me.



I got much better results from the stand alone Panasonic player than the ps3 for blu ray playback, 3D and 2D.


----------



## brahby

did you get the monster brand glasses, or one of the other mentioned in this thread? also which panasonic player did you go with? I still think the main culprit in the ghosting is the nx810 since my ex720 has little to no ghosting with the same content and source (ps3)


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21443222
> 
> 
> did you get the monster brand glasses, or one of the other mentioned in this thread? also which panasonic player did you go with? I still think the main culprit in the ghosting is the nx810 since my ex720 has little to no ghosting with the same content and source (ps3)



I don't think the player has anything to do with ghosting. I've already tested with standalone bd player and PS3. They're both the same. NX810 seems to have lots of ghosting issue with 3D in general.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

I'm using the Optoma RF glasses / emitter on my 65" DLP and see no ghosting from my orignal fat 20gb PS3. I am not sure what FW I am on though.


----------



## duh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/21445226
> 
> 
> I'm using the Optoma RF glasses / emitter on my 65" DLP and see no ghosting from my orignal fat 20gb PS3. I am not sure what FW I am on though.



Does your DLP have a connection for the RF emitter? Just curious how you connected things to be able to use the Optoma RF glasses.


The reason I ask is I got the GT750e & 4 sets of the Optoma RF glasses... works great. But one of the reasons I got the RF glasses was thinking if I get a new 3D Plasma TV (in the near future) I would be able to use the RF glasses with the Plasma by connecting the RF emitter that came with the GT750e. After doing a little more research it appears that to use the RF emitter on some TVs (that dont have the correct connection port for the emitter) then I have to use an IR sensor, but this IR sensor did not come with the GT750e or the Optoma RF glasses. It does come with the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit though. So know Im thinking I should return one of the glasses and get the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit so I will have the IR sensor.


----------



## mikemav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duh* /forum/post/21445576
> 
> 
> Does your DLP have a connection for the RF emitter? Just curious how you connected things to be able to use the Optoma RF glasses.
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is I got the GT750e & 4 sets of the Optoma RF glasses... works great. But one of the reasons I got the RF glasses was thinking if I get a new 3D Plasma TV (in the near future) I would be able to use the RF glasses with the Plasma by connecting the RF emitter that came with the GT750e. After doing a little more research it appears that to use the RF emitter on some TVs (that dont have the correct connection port for the emitter) then I have to use an IR sensor, but this IR sensor did not come with the GT750e or the Optoma RF glasses. It does come with the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit though. So know Im thinking I should return one of the glasses and get the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit so I will have the IR sensor.



Another issue may be that the 2011+ LCD and plasma displays often don't use IR anymore for 3D emitter, but use Bluetooth glasses (I'm looking at you, Samsung!) So be sure the plasma you have in mind truly uses IR shutter glasses and not the "improved" bluetooth, which would not be compatible with your setup...


----------



## duh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duh* /forum/post/21445576
> 
> 
> Does your DLP have a connection for the RF emitter? Just curious how you connected things to be able to use the Optoma RF glasses.
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is I got the GT750e & 4 sets of the Optoma RF glasses... works great. But one of the reasons I got the RF glasses was thinking if I get a new 3D Plasma TV (in the near future) I would be able to use the RF glasses with the Plasma by connecting the RF emitter that came with the GT750e. After doing a little more research it appears that to use the RF emitter on some TVs (that dont have the correct connection port for the emitter) then I have to use an IR sensor, but this IR sensor did not come with the GT750e or the Optoma RF glasses. It does come with the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit though. So know Im thinking I should return one of the glasses and get the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit so I will have the IR sensor.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemav* /forum/post/21445671
> 
> 
> Another issue may be that the 2011+ LCD and plasma displays often don't use IR anymore for 3D emitter, but use Bluetooth glasses (I'm looking at you, Samsung!) So be sure the plasma you have in mind truly uses IR shutter glasses and not the "improved" bluetooth, which would not be compatible with your setup...



Good point. Ive been eyeing the LG 60PZ550 which using their RF glasses (LG AG-S250). Im wondering if the Optoma RF Glasses would work this TV.


----------



## browerjs

If I buy two RF emmiters, will I be able to swap the glasses between a Sony projector and a Panasonic plasma without having to change any settings on the glasses?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/21445946
> 
> 
> If I buy two RF emmiters, will I be able to swap the glasses between a Sony projector and a Panasonic plasma without having to change any settings on the glasses?



Yes. I have two different emitters that I use on two different displays (Samsung plasma and a Sony pj) and I can share the glasses no problem.


The only thing you have to watch out for is that you don't want to run both sets in 3D at the same time. Even in separate rooms pretty far apart the sensor in one can pick up the transmitter of the other... But besides this you can move the glasses back and forth without having to program anything.


----------



## jpvision




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think the player has anything to do with ghosting. I've already tested with standalone bd player and PS3. They're both the same. NX810 seems to have lots of ghosting issue with 3D in general.



I tried 2 different Sony bluray players over the last year. One was the 570 and the other was the 580. Both showed little to no improvement over the PS3. I returned both.


Recently I tried the monster glasses and did see an improvement in the quality of the 3D on the NX810. Not perfect but certainly an improvement over the Sony glasses. I really did not want to watch 3D with the Sony glasses but the monster glasses made it watchable.


I was so pleased with the results of the glasses I told a friend of mine who owns a local home theater install company about them. He told me he was familiar with them but had not used them. We then were talking about my setup and he recommended using a Panasonic 210 player instead of the PS3. He said the PS3 does not handle the 1080p 3D very well and the Panasonic would be a huge improvement over the PS3. I have to say he was right both 2D and 3D play much better. Ghosting still crops up from time to time but the 3D is much much better than it was when I purchased this TV a year ago.


----------



## brahby

Do you think the 110 would work as well. I think it's supposed to be the 210 minus the wifi right? My friends shop has the 110 in stock but not the 210.


----------



## vagpwner

guys how do i use my monster vision 3d glasses? i have no idea how to install it... the 3D sync port on my 95 looks like an RJ45 and the emitter on the MV3D only has 3.5mm


----------



## cjrivera

Does anyone know where you can buy additional glasses without the rest of the system?

I can't find them anywhere online.


----------



## rwestley

You can buy additional glasses from AVS or you can get the Optima glasses from Amazon which are the same as the MV glasses.


If anyone is having problems installing the MV glasses on JVC projectors just follow the instruction manual which is online. or follow the quick start manual. JVC projectors use a Vesa port. Plug the included cable into the Vesa port and plug the 3.5mm cable into the emitter. There is a post on this thread on how to make a Y connector cable if you want to use both JVC and MV glasses.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duh* /forum/post/21445576
> 
> 
> Does your DLP have a connection for the RF emitter? Just curious how you connected things to be able to use the Optoma RF glasses.
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is I got the GT750e & 4 sets of the Optoma RF glasses... works great. But one of the reasons I got the RF glasses was thinking if I get a new 3D Plasma TV (in the near future) I would be able to use the RF glasses with the Plasma by connecting the RF emitter that came with the GT750e. After doing a little more research it appears that to use the RF emitter on some TVs (that dont have the correct connection port for the emitter) then I have to use an IR sensor, but this IR sensor did not come with the GT750e or the Optoma RF glasses. It does come with the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit though. So know Im thinking I should return one of the glasses and get the MonsterVision Max 3D Kit so I will have the IR sensor.



In the theater I use DLP-Link with a GT700+3DXL, so no emitter. In the living room, I use a Mitsu 65" and the RF emitter is plugged right into the normal VESA port on the display itself. I have having range issues with the DLP link glasses in the living room is why I ask Santa for the RF glasses setup.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpvision* /forum/post/21448814
> 
> 
> I tried 2 different Sony bluray players over the last year. One was the 570 and the other was the 580. Both showed little to no improvement over the PS3. I returned both.
> 
> 
> Recently I tried the monster glasses and did see an improvement in the quality of the 3D on the NX810. Not perfect but certainly an improvement over the Sony glasses. I really did not want to watch 3D with the Sony glasses but the monster glasses made it watchable.
> 
> 
> I was so pleased with the results of the glasses I told a friend of mine who owns a local home theater install company about them. He told me he was familiar with them but had not used them. We then were talking about my setup and he recommended using a Panasonic 210 player instead of the PS3. He said the PS3 does not handle the 1080p 3D very well and the Panasonic would be a huge improvement over the PS3. I have to say he was right both 2D and 3D play much better. Ghosting still crops up from time to time but the 3D is much much better than it was when I purchased this TV a year ago.



Interesting, I wonder if / how the PS3 could be display dependent? I have compared back and forth from my PS3 to my Panny BD players and have not been able to tell any difference on my two different displays. One a 65" and the other a 110".


It would be nice to qualify what he means by... "Does not handle 1080p 3D very well" Then again? I use DLP so no ghosting ever.


----------



## GoldenBoy

Anyone have any optimized fine tuning settings they find work best with the monster glasses and a Samsung UN55C8000 or other screen sizes in that line?


----------



## cjrivera




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21449907
> 
> 
> You can buy additional glasses from AVS or you can get the Optima glasses from Amazon which are the same as the MV glasses.



thanks.


----------



## dojoman

These glasses are piece of junk. I couldn't get the transmitter to sync with my nx810. And when I tried to upgrade fw it failed completely. Now it's showing solid middle red color. Can't reset or do anything else. Terrible quality IMHO. I never got to find out whether if they will even improve crosstalk.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21457662
> 
> 
> These glasses are piece of junk. I couldn't get the transmitter to sync with my nx810. And when I tried to upgrade fw it failed completely. Now it's showing solid middle red color. Can't reset or do anything else. Terrible quality IMHO. I never got to find out whether if they will even improve crosstalk.



I've never had ANY such problems with mine. Firmware updates went OK, syncing with display is no problem. The online manual on the Sony website doesn't specify the type of 3D sync connector it has, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was proprietary/non-standard and won't work with the Monster/Bit Cauldron transmitter.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21457662
> 
> 
> These glasses are piece of junk. I couldn't get the transmitter to sync with my nx810. And when I tried to upgrade fw it failed completely. Now it's showing solid middle red color. Can't reset or do anything else. Terrible quality IMHO. I never got to find out whether if they will even improve crosstalk.



The fact that you can't sync them with your equipment does not mean that they are a "piece of junk." Many with much more experience than you have had great success with these glasses. Check out the over $3000 projector thread.

There must be something wrong with the way you are setting them up. Download the full manual and do a factory reset. If you recently purchased the glasses you probably have the latest firmware already installed.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The fact that you can't sync them with your equipment does not mean that they are a "piece of junk." Many with much more experience than you have had great success with these glasses. Check out the over $3000 projector thread.
> 
> There must be something wrong with the way you are setting them up. Download the full manual and do a factory reset. If you recently purchased the glasses you probably have the latest firmware already installed.



Like I said I read the manuals and tried to reset. No luck. Led in the middle is fully lit and no respond. When I tried to upgrade it kept showing update failed. I think when it failed the upgrade the hardware completely locked up. It's likely I got a defective one out of the box but quality is questionable. For example the 3.5 mm jack for IR receiver won't go into the plug completely. It was pretty tight to push in. Really a flimsy made device. I'm just expressing my own experience. Yeah it worked with $3k projector. That doesn't mean anything. If a product is defective out of the box it's just bad quality control.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I've never had ANY such problems with mine. Firmware updates went OK, syncing with display is no problem. The online manual on the Sony website doesn't specify the type of 3D sync connector it has, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was proprietary/non-standard and won't work with the Monster/Bit Cauldron transmitter.



3d sync connector won't work with my tv that's why I used IR and tried to sync. It kept searching for signal and no success. I said piece of junk bc it's broken out of the box. I'm sure yours work, good for you, boo hoo.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21459976
> 
> 
> Like I said I read the manuals and tried to reset. No luck. Led in the middle is fully lit and no respond. When I tried to upgrade it kept showing update failed. I think when it failed the upgrade the hardware completely locked up. It's likely I got a defective one out of the box but quality is questionable. For example the 3.5 mm jack for IR receiver won't go into the plug completely. It was pretty tight to push in. Really a flimsy made device. I'm just expressing my own experience. Yeah it worked with $3k projector. That doesn't mean anything. If a product is defective out of the box it's just bad quality control.



If you tried to power it up with the cable not plugged in all the way it may have fried the emitter. I know they had a cable problem. I fired my first emitter but it was the molded cable that fried it.


Get a new one! These glasses are fabulous.


----------



## franakin

Hi guys ! Anyone here with a Sony VW95 who would like to share his own settings ? Mine are 22596 and 60%, but I still got some ghosting left, even lowering it at 50%...I can't seem to be able to do better than the Sony glasses, minus the yellow tint of the latter...

Thanks !


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you tried to power it up with the cable not plugged in all the way it may have fried the emitter. I know they had a cable problem. I fired my first emitter but it was the molded cable that fried it.
> 
> 
> Get a new one! These glasses are fabulous.



Just bought another one and I'm able to sync with my tv. I have to place the IR very close to my existing transmitter. Glasses are still charging so not sure the image quality. I'll find out in a few hr. You're right the 3.5mm jack has to be pushed in all the way and if it was left 3/4 in running lights turn off. Why can't they make the jack much better?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21459982
> 
> 
> 3d sync connector won't work with my tv that's why I used IR and tried to sync. It kept searching for signal and no success. I said piece of junk bc it's broken out of the box. I'm sure yours work, good for you, boo hoo.



I wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just pointing out that my experience has been totally different from yours. More and more manufacturers appear to be going to non-standard connectors, EDID checks, etc., to make people have to buy their branded accessories. As an example, our Sony Bravia from 3 years ago is 'Net capable, but you have to use the converter box that came with the TV, and all it gives you is content provided by Sony. No DNLA or other networking capability.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* /forum/post/21470544
> 
> 
> I wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just pointing out that my experience has been totally different from yours. More and more manufacturers appear to be going to non-standard connectors, EDID checks, etc., to make people have to buy their branded accessories. As an example, our Sony Bravia from 3 years ago is 'Net capable, but you have to use the converter box that came with the TV, and all it gives you is content provided by Sony. No DNLA or other networking capability.



No problem. i was just frustrated with the IR dongle setup but I got it working after getting another pair. I return them both since I see no improvement in flicker which Monster claimed these are faster shutter glasses and brightness seems about the same as branded pairs that I have. Monster glasses are perfect for people with projector with VESA connector, it's too much mess with IR dongle.


----------



## ccotenj

^^^


i simply taped the ir dongle to the ir emitter on my pj... hardly "too much mess"...


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccotenj* /forum/post/21471326
> 
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> i simply taped the ir dongle to the ir emitter on my pj... hardly "too much mess"...



Well not just that. I don't have USB nearby so I had to rout a long cable to my Xbox with wire dangling everywhere. I would call that a mess.


----------



## brahby

You didn't use the USB from the nx810?


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21471921
> 
> 
> You didn't use the USB from the nx810?



I did but I got a message from TV saying the device is drawing too much power and asked to unplug it. IR dongle uses a lot of power from USB. So I had to hook it up to Xbox.


----------



## getchevyn

Got this thing running on my Sony kdl46hx820 and it's definitely a huge improvement. I can actually tilt my head and maintain the 3d effect with these glasses just like the new passive ones. Ghosting is almost elimated. Why don't more tv manufacturers jump on this bandwagon?


----------



## GoldenBoy

Oddly enough, I find that with these glasses and my display (Samsung UN55C8000) I notice a narrower viewing angle than with the native glasses. It's not that I lose the 3D effect, but if I tilt my head to the left, the picture darkens. If I tilt my head down, it also darkens a bit. Conversely, if I tilt to the right, there is no darkening. This is strange. Does anyone else notice this sort of behavior?


On another note, I have tweaked the settings further and reduced, but not eliminated, crosstalk further. It has darkened the image more, however, but what can I do?


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoldenBoy* /forum/post/21478775
> 
> 
> Oddly enough, I find that with these glasses and my display (Samsung UN55C8000) I notice a narrower viewing angle than with the native glasses. It's not that I lose the 3D effect, but if I tilt my head to the left, the picture darkens. If I tilt my head down, it also darkens a bit. Conversely, if I tilt to the right, there is no darkening. This is strange. Does anyone else notice this sort of behavior?



I have the Optoma RF version of the glasses and did some testing with my new Optoma GT750 projector. I was noticing ghosting to the level where I did not expect with the Optoma DLP. At first I thought I would need to tune the glasses/emitter combo. I'm using their 'default' configuration right out of box which I assume is already set for optimum Optima DLP use.







What I found is that the lenses need to be as parallel as possible to the screen and your eye's viewing path as perpendicular to the lenses for optimum ghosting and color performance. I was somewhat 'reclining' in my seat and as the lens became less parallel to the screen the ghosting increases. This sucks for using a recliner...so I tilted the frames downward a bit...the frame handles lifted off my ears...but the ghosting decreases and disappears. However the other artifact is that the picture darkens a bit (with a somewhat green tint.) This I attribute to my eye's viewing angle now hitting the lens at a less than perpendicular angle causing more light loss/polarization.

If anyone is using Bit Cauldron type glasses with Optoma projectors did you find a need to tune them out of the box?


----------



## lovingdvd

Is anyone else having a problem with their IR receiver picking up a signal when no 3D signal is present? From time to time I see my green lights come on yet there is no 3D transmission. Could not be coming from a neighbor or another room either.


Sometimes it happens a lot like every 15 seconds. Other times it doesn't happen for weeks. I can't tell if it has to do with something being turned on in the house that causes this, or interference from the projector itself, or maybe even the type of light reflecting of the projector's screen (Firehawk). Anyone?


----------



## heja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek* /forum/post/21483437
> 
> 
> I have the Optoma RF version of the glasses and did some testing with my new Optoma GT750 projector. I was noticing ghosting to the level where I did not expect with the Optoma DLP. At first I thought I would need to tune the glasses/emitter combo. I'm using their 'default' configuration right out of box which I assume is already set for optimum Optima DLP use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I found is that the lenses need to be as parallel as possible to the screen and your eye's viewing path as perpendicular to the lenses for optimum ghosting and color performance. I was somewhat 'reclining' in my seat and as the lens became less parallel to the screen the ghosting increases. This sucks for using a recliner...so I tilted the frames downward a bit...the frame handles lifted off my ears...but the ghosting decreases and disappears. However the other artifact is that the picture darkens a bit (with a somewhat green tint.) This I attribute to my eye's viewing angle now hitting the lens at a less than perpendicular angle causing more light loss/polarization.
> 
> If anyone is using Bit Cauldron type glasses with Optoma projectors did you find a need to tune them out of the box?



Have noticed the same thing as you on my Sony VW95 when sitting in a recliner. I have to tilt the gasses downwards to get a totally ghost free image…. Is there smart solutions to this other than the solution that Derek use?


----------



## oleus

same "leaning back - ghosting" issue here, with my optoma rf's. FWIW, the problem was the same if not worse with both pairs of Ultimate3dheaven DLP Link glasses i tried.


----------



## cjrivera




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *William* /forum/post/20998544
> 
> 
> If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....



Ok... what values do you need for the HW30ES?


----------



## palpitatn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjrivera* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ok... what values do you need for the HW30ES?



+1


I'll be getting my MV3D delivered today. Can't wait to try it out.


----------



## lovingdvd

After much experimentation I believe the BEST settings for use with the Sony VW95 are the factory, default settings, but with the 3D brightness setting on the Sony at level 3 (one down from the "Max" setting).


The default settings for the Sony (note that the default settings are manufacturer specific!) at 1150 delay and 89 duty cycle. With the 3D brightness control set at 3 that is the equivalent of 72 for the duty cycle.


However its best to just go with the default factor settings (which is technically different than just putting the same default settings into the fine tuning menu - read this sentence again so it sinks in...).


So IMO to get the best results reset your transmitter to the factory default setting (instructions are in the manual) and then put the 3D brightness in the Sony menu to 3. With some material you may be able to push it back to Max without adding to the ghosting.


I can't say for sure about the VW30 but I think its a high probability this all applies just the same to that unit.


----------



## palpitatn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After much experimentation I believe the BEST settings for use with the Sony VW95 are the factory, default settings, but with the 3D brightness setting on the Sony at level 3 (one down from the "Max" setting).
> 
> 
> The default settings for the Sony (note that the default settings are manufacturer specific!) at 1150 delay and 89 duty cycle. With the 3D brightness control set at 3 that is the equivalent of 72 for the duty cycle.
> 
> 
> However its best to just go with the default factor settings (which is technically different than just putting the same default settings into the fine tuning menu - read this sentence again so it sinks in...).
> 
> 
> So IMO to get the best results reset your transmitter to the factory default setting (instructions are in the manual) and then put the 3D brightness in the Sony menu to 3. With some material you may be able to push it back to Max without adding to the ghosting.
> 
> 
> I can't say for sure about the VW30 but I think its a high probability this all applies just the same to that unit.



Just plugged in my glasses to charge. So far so good. Once they are fully charged, I will set up with the default settings.


Anyone have any tips and tricks for hooking up with the Sony HW30?


----------



## mmarki

Should I leave the transmitter always plugged in? I have been unplugging mine when I am not watching a 3d movie. Do I lose my duty and cycle settings?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmarki* /forum/post/21489701
> 
> 
> Should I leave the transmitter always plugged in? I have been unplugging mine when I am not watching a 3d movie. Do I lose my duty and cycle settings?



No as long as you hit the Save button in the software or as long as you let the unit sit for several minutes after tweaking with the joystick - then the custom settings are saved even after power is out. I understand it draws a very tiny amount of electricity. I leave mine on all the time but mainly because I have to feed it from a plug/USB adapter.


What I'd really like is to be able to power it from the 12v trigger on my projector...


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *palpitatn* /forum/post/21489685
> 
> 
> Just plugged in my glasses to charge. So far so good. Once they are fully charged, I will set up with the default settings.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any tips and tricks for hooking up with the Sony HW30?



Did you happen to see the post directly above the one where you posted this question?


----------



## palpitatn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Did you happen to see the post directly above the one where you posted this question?



I did see it, but since it wasn't about the HW30, I wanted to know if there actually were any specific differences from the 95. Since the 30 doesn't have a built in IR emitter, I was especially curious how other 30 owners set up their IR emitter and MV3D RF transmitter.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *palpitatn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I did see it, but since it wasn't about the HW30, I wanted to know if there actually were any specific differences from the 95. Since the 30 doesn't have a built in IR emitter, I was especially curious how other 30 owners set up their IR emitter and MV3D RF transmitter.



The delay and duty is often the same within a manufacturers line. If you try my suggestions for the 95 on your 30 please let us know how they work out.


----------



## mmarki




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No as long as you hit the Save button in the software or as long as you let the unit sit for several minutes after tweaking with the joystick - then the custom settings are saved even after power is out. I understand it draws a very tiny amount of electricity. I leave mine on all the time but mainly because I have to feed it from a plug/USB adapter.
> 
> 
> What I'd really like is to be able to power it from the 12v trigger on my projector...



Thanks LDVD. I thought that was the case. I can't find how to reset to defaults. I'll check the monster website. Y


----------



## greenyalie

one of my lens on my monster has stopped working, meaning there is no shuttering. Is there a way to fix this or does this mean i have a browkn pair? I have only had them a few weeks.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greenyalie* /forum/post/21494850
> 
> 
> one of my lens on my monster has stopped working, meaning there is no shuttering. Is there a way to fix this or does this mean i have a browkn pair? I have only had them a few weeks.



Doesn't sound good. But there is a way to force the glasses to a factory reset. It is described in the manual. I would give that a try.


----------



## kenobi

Hello,


Curious if there's anybody out there who has somewhat of a success with the JVC RS45 mating to the Monstervision Max3D/Optoma RF/Bit Cauldron glasses. If so, please share your best settings with respect to minimal ghosting/crosstalk while retaining decent brightness.


I initially had OK experience with the combo but polarity was reversed so I had to wear the glasses upside down. Once I tried to reverse polarity (via monster utility), the picture got completely out of whack. I then reset everything to default (manually), I got a good picture again but the polarity is still reversed like Doug mentioned above (which means I had to wear the glasses upside down). The manual was badly written and I just couldn't do much as far as manual tuning is concern. This damn thing is not user friendly and that's an understatement.


Thanks in advance,


Kenobi


----------



## JewDaddy

Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## jasonmichaelh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.



You really have to press the button hard.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21503974
> 
> 
> Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.



You will probably have to buy a charger to properly charge them. When fully charged the led will pulse slowly. If no lights at all it is not charging.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You will probably have to buy a charger to properly charge them. When fully charged the led will pulse slowly. If no lights at all it is not charging.



Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21504160
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?



I use an old cell phone charger for my glasses. I know some USB ports don't have or can't supply the DC current required to use as a charging device.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21504160
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?



Also my glasses were dead when I first got them.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I use an old cell phone charger for my glasses. I know some USB ports don't have or can't supply the DC current required to use as a charging device.



Well I have a bluetooth headset that has a charger that plugs into the wall. I tried connecting my glasses into that via usb and still nothing. This doesnt make sense......


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21504201
> 
> 
> Well I have a bluetooth headset that has a charger that plugs into the wall. I tried connecting my glasses into that via usb and still nothing. This doesnt make sense......



My old LG charger can supply 700ma of current. With it plugged into your Bluetooth charger press hard on the power button and hold it down until it turns on. It should turn on with power supplied.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21504226
> 
> 
> My old LG charger can supply 700ma of current. With it plugged into your Bluetooth charger press hard on the power button and hold it down until it turns on. It should turn on with power supplied.



Tried it. Still nothing......... Neither pair will turn on. However, I had one of them plugged into my laptop and after multiple attempts at unplugging and plugging back in, I finally had a blinking red light. After about 5 mintues, I unplugged them, held the power button down and nothing. I tried hooking it back up to the laptop and no light anymore. I'm very confused as to how I could end up with two bad pairs of these glasses....


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21505755
> 
> 
> Tried it. Still nothing......... Neither pair will turn on. However, I had one of them plugged into my laptop and after multiple attempts at unplugging and plugging back in, I finally had a blinking red light. After about 5 mintues, I unplugged them, held the power button down and nothing. I tried hooking it back up to the laptop and no light anymore. I'm very confused as to how I could end up with two bad pairs of these glasses....



The recommended initial charge time on these is several hours (four, IIRC). You won't get any response from them after only a few minutes.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* /forum/post/21506031
> 
> 
> The recommended initial charge time on these is several hours (four, IIRC). You won't get any response from them after only a few minutes.



But isn't the LED light supposed to be on while they're charging??


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21506153
> 
> 
> But isn't the LED light supposed to be on while they're charging??



No not on while charging. Fully charged it will pluse slowly. Blinking means they are on looking for a sync from the emitter. The blinking stops after 5 minutes because they turn off. They are still charging after it stops blinking.


----------



## bd2003

Got tired of waiting for the x104s, and found out they weren't the only ones on the block with tunable glasses. Saw these in the double digits at amazon and figured what the hell, why not?


Im using a Samsung PN50C8000 plasma. The stock glasses are ok, but there is just way too much crosstalk in games. I'm hoping this can rectify some of that - and even if they're not better out of the box, hopefully I can tune it to my liking, sacrificing brightness for less crosstalk. Should have them in a few days.


----------



## brahby

I keep wanting to pull the trigger on these but they keep going down in price. I don't wait to long though and eventually they sell out. Did monster reveal new glasses at ces or something?


----------



## JewDaddy

Ok. So I finally got the glasses charged and working. Thanks everyone for the input. Once I got everything setup, i decided to test out the glasses with my Sony 55HX820 LED. To my surprise, not only did these glasses not improve the crosstalk or ghosting, somehow it actually got worse! What the heck is up with that? I thought that was the whole point about these glasses. So looks like Im asking for help again if anyone has suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## JewDaddy

Oh, another update. Now, i get a message on my tv saying that i need to disconnect the usb device because its drawing too much current. WTF!!


----------



## brahby

Well if your emitter is plugged in the USB and your getting that message that could be why you have bad crosstalk. Weak signal from not getting enough power. If you have any apple product trying using the USB power adapter in an outlet close enough to allow you to still place it where it needs to be for your glasses. Someone on here earlier stated they used their Xbox USB because the tv gave that same message.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well if your emitter is plugged in the USB and your getting that message that could be why you have bad crosstalk. Weak signal from not getting enough power. If you have any apple product trying using the USB power adapter in an outlet close enough to allow you to still place it where it needs to be for your glasses. Someone on here earlier stated they used their Xbox USB because the tv gave that same message.



Thanks for the tip on the power adapter. Unfortunately, the crosstalk and ghosting are still just as bad. Btw, ive got all the green lights on my emitter.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21509825
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the power adapter. Unfortunately, the crosstalk and ghosting are still just as bad. Btw, ive got all the green lights on my emitter.



You probably need to adjust duty cycle and shutter lens timing to match your TV's panels. Do you have the PC utility so you can make these adjustments? You can also use the joystick but I find that hard to use.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21511402
> 
> 
> You probably need to adjust duty cycle and shutter lens timing to match your TV's panels. Do you have the PC utility so you can make these adjustments? You can also use the joystick but I find that hard to use.



could you point me in the direction of the pc utility? i was able to make adjustments with the joystick but it was next to impossible


----------



## getchevyn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21511742
> 
> 
> could you point me in the direction of the pc utility? i was able to make adjustments with the joystick but it was next to impossible



It's on the bottom of this page. The adjustment software is in the "firmware" download.

http://www.monstercable.com/max3d/default.asp


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21509565
> 
> 
> Ok. So I finally got the glasses charged and working. Thanks everyone for the input. Once I got everything setup, i decided to test out the glasses with my Sony 55HX820 LED. To my surprise, not only did these glasses not improve the crosstalk or ghosting, somehow it actually got worse! What the heck is up with that? I thought that was the whole point about these glasses. So looks like Im asking for help again if anyone has suggestions. Thanks!



I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.



No, I actually didnt read your post about your experience with them. I wish I would have. The only reason I found out about these is due to someone elses post on the HX820 forum. He claimed that it eliminated 90% of his ghosting and crosstalk and that they were amazing. So, based off that, i felt like i had to try them. So you're saying that none of the adjustments helped at all??


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

Dang.. All I can say is blessed be thyne DLP displays for 3D.


I'll have to look at the model of my friends Sony 3D setup. I have watched some 3D on it and did not notice ghosting or crosstalk. Only the one time did I get to watch 3D on it. We usually do 3D at my house. 110" theater setup at my house.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dang.. All I can say is blessed be thyne DLP displays for 3D.
> 
> 
> I'll have to look at the model of my friends Sony 3D setup. I have watched some 3D on it and did not notice ghosting or crosstalk. Only the one time did I get to watch 3D on it. We usually do 3D at my house. 110" theater setup at my house.



110" theater setup?? Thats awesome! My friend has the Mits 65738 dlp and the 3d on that is phenomenal! Wish i could say the same for my sony


----------



## jpvision




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.



That's strange. I have a NX810 and the USB power works fine. Never got an error and the 3d appears better than it was before.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21513391
> 
> 
> No, I actually didnt read your post about your experience with them. I wish I would have. The only reason I found out about these is due to someone elses post on the HX820 forum. He claimed that it eliminated 90% of his ghosting and crosstalk and that they were amazing. So, based off that, i felt like i had to try them. So you're saying that none of the adjustments helped at all??



Well they didn't help me at all. Adjusting the shutter delay just makes the image darker but I can still see crosstalk. It's pretty common with LED TV in general and we all have different visions so some do see more than others. The only time I did see crosstalk almost eliminated and I found this by accident. It may sound weird but during hot summer day the crosstalk seem to decrease significantly, especially during 90 deg weather. I confirmed this many times by re watching or playing 3D PS3 games where I saw too much crosstalk and indeed hot weather improves it. I wasn't sure why but I'm guess the circuit board seems to work a lot better when it's hot?


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpvision* /forum/post/21513706
> 
> 
> That's strange. I have a NX810 and the USB power works fine. Never got an error and the 3d appears better than it was before.



Which size TV do you have? That is strange. When I plugged in the message pops on the TV and doesn't go away. I have 46".


----------



## jpvision




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Which size TV do you have? That is strange. When I plugged in the message pops on the TV and doesn't go away. I have 46".



I have a 55. Its plugged into the USB port marked PC.


----------



## JewDaddy

Ok. So even though it prolly won't help with the ghosting and crosstalk on my Sony 55HX820, can I get some help on adjusting the duty cycle and delay for my glasses. Are you just supposed to blindly change the settings, hook up to your tv and see how it affects the pic or is there some kind of method to this madness? Thanks


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21513887
> 
> 
> Ok. So even though it prolly won't help with the ghosting and crosstalk on my Sony 55HX820, can I get some help on adjusting the duty cycle and delay for my glasses. Are you just supposed to blindly change the settings, hook up to your tv and see how it affects the pic or is there some kind of method to this madness? Thanks



When i was using my jvc for 3D I would pause on a scene with depth and or some image that pops out at you. Close one eye and adjust the timing until the double image goes away. Start with a lower duty cycle like 60 before changing the timing. Then when the double image goes away you increase duty cycle until you start seeing a double image again. Then adjust timing. If you then can't reduce the double image you reduce duty cycle. At some point you will get the best brightness and least amount of ghosting.


Ron


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When i was using my jvc for 3D I would pause on a scene with depth and or some image that pops out at you. Close one eye and adjust the timing until the double image goes away. Start with a lower duty cycle like 60 before changing the timing. Then when the double image goes away you increase duty cycle until you start seeing a double image again. Then adjust timing. If you then can't reduce the double image you reduce duty cycle. At some point you will get the best brightness and least amount of ghosting.
> 
> 
> Ron



I had to read it a few times but that actually makes sense. I'll give that a try. So did u adjust from a computer or did you use the joystick on the emitter?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21514030
> 
> 
> I had to read it a few times but that actually makes sense. I'll give that a try. So did u adjust from a computer or did you use the joystick on the emitter?



Used a laptop. The joystick is to touchy and impossible to fine tune.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Used a laptop. The joystick is to touchy and impossible to fine tune.



Well, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Used a laptop. The joystick is to touchy and impossible to fine tune.



How were you able to do that while dongle is plugged in? Or did you unplug and then hook it up to pc, change setting, then go back to tv replug check 3d? It will drive me insane. I used joystick while pause on a crosstalk scene but joystick cable was too short.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out.



Let us know how it turns out. I didn't use pc to adjust the delay, probably would've been easier to do it on pc.


----------



## getchevyn

Some things to consider:


1. I set up my Sony 46HX820 with the headphone output as "line" instead "headphone". Maybe it's using less power? Never got that power message.

2. Did you update your firmware? I thought it was a little better after I did that.

3. How far are you sitting to the screen? I had my tv originally set up at 5 feet and later got a stand that is 8 feet away. It seems better when I am further away.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21514632
> 
> 
> How were you able to do that while dongle is plugged in? Or did you unplug and then hook it up to pc, change setting, then go back to tv replug check 3d? It will drive me insane. I used joystick while pause on a crosstalk scene but joystick cable was too short.



Run the proper USB cable ("A" to mini "B", IIRC) from the laptop to the emitter. When you use the PC utility, the emitter should be showing green LEDs with 3D content playing. There is a few second delay between making a change and seeing the result, but as Ronomy says, it's _much_ easier to use the PC utility than to fiddle with the emitter's joystick.


----------



## dojoman

I'll wait for JewDaddy to confirm if his crosstalk improves. I never bother to update FW since I might have blew the dongle when I attempted to update.


----------



## bd2003

Is there any agreed upon way or set of patterns to tune these?


Duty seems easy enough...white vertical lines on a black background and varying depths should help you to tune between brightness/ghosting. Each line should have two distinct ghosts on each side.


Delay seems trickier though. I suppose if it's off, one side of the vertical line's ghost is probably going to be brighter than the other.


That make sense to anyone? Seems a little crazy to just eyeball it - there has to be a way using a pattern to dial it in to perfection. Duty can come down to personal taste, but there is literally only one correct setting for delay.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bd2003* /forum/post/21517243
> 
> 
> Is there any agreed upon way or set of patterns to tune these?
> 
> 
> Duty seems easy enough...white vertical lines on a black background and varying depths should help you to tune between brightness/ghosting. Each line should have two distinct ghosts on each side.
> 
> 
> Delay seems trickier though. I suppose if it's off, one side of the vertical line's ghost is probably going to be brighter than the other.
> 
> 
> That make sense to anyone? Seems a little crazy to just eyeball it - there has to be a way using a pattern to dial it in to perfection. Duty can come down to personal taste, but there is literally only one correct setting for delay.



Duty cycle isnt just personal taste. We would all want 100% for the brightest image which is possible on a DLP display. If the LCD or LCOS panels can't refresh quick enough on the TV a lower duty cycle allows you to block out the portion that is still visible or until the previous image brightness is low enough you don't see it very easily. So there is a trade off for brighter image with more ghosting or darker image with little to no ghosting.


----------



## JewDaddy

Ok. So i've messed around a little bit with the duty cycle and delay and its a little more complicated than I thought it would be. I chose a winter x games scene from direct tv to test this with. I paused it on a part that had alot of crosstalk. I started by adjusting the duty cycle to 60 and then adjusting the delay. I had a little success in reducing some crosstalk but not enough yet to justify buying these glasses over my Sony's. Im gonna try again and see if I can dial the crosstalk down even more. Someone had mentioned to close one of my eyes while doing it. Not sure how that would differ from just looking at the screen with both my eyes open. Oh well, I'll see if i have any better success and let you guys know.


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Duty cycle isnt just personal taste. We would all want 100% for the brightest image which is possible on a DLP display. If the LCD or LCOS panels can't refresh quick enough on the TV a lower duty cycle allows you to block out the portion that is still visible or until the previous image brightness is low enough you don't see it very easily. So there is a trade off for brighter image with more ghosting or darker image with little to no ghosting.



Well yeah, if there's a point where you could say ghosting is all gone even in the worst case scenario, then you'd never want to go below that. Dunno how you'd get to that point for sure without a pattern though.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21517829
> 
> 
> Ok. So i've messed around a little bit with the duty cycle and delay and its a little more complicated than I thought it would be. I chose a winter x games scene from direct tv to test this with. I paused it on a part that had alot of crosstalk. I started by adjusting the duty cycle to 60 and then adjusting the delay. I had a little success in reducing some crosstalk but not enough yet to justify buying these glasses over my Sony's. Im gonna try again and see if I can dial the crosstalk down even more. Someone had mentioned to close one of my eyes while doing it. Not sure how that would differ from just looking at the screen with both my eyes open. Oh well, I'll see if i have any better success and let you guys know.



Not sure I would use Directv to do this with. Better to use a Bluray. Broadcast might have ghosting in the source.


You can use both eyes but I can fine tune better closing one eye and look for the double image in one eye. Sometime I find looking at a 3D image paused my eyes will cross more than they need and I see double myself. LOL


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21517829
> 
> 
> Ok. So i've messed around a little bit with the duty cycle and delay and its a little more complicated than I thought it would be. I chose a winter x games scene from direct tv to test this with. I paused it on a part that had alot of crosstalk. I started by adjusting the duty cycle to 60 and then adjusting the delay. I had a little success in reducing some crosstalk but not enough yet to justify buying these glasses over my Sony's. Im gonna try again and see if I can dial the crosstalk down even more. Someone had mentioned to close one of my eyes while doing it. Not sure how that would differ from just looking at the screen with both my eyes open. Oh well, I'll see if i have any better success and let you guys know.



yeah i was gonna say you should do this on a good source like a Bluray 3D disc. I always have a reference scene in Avatar 3D BD to do this kind of tweak. Downloaded and streaming contents have lots of crosstalk.


----------



## rwestley

If anyone is looking for the Monster glasses and emitter Amazon has them at the lowest price I have even seen today.


----------



## JewDaddy

Alright. So after almost an hour of adjusting, which I actually had a friend come over and help. He sat back with the glasses on while I changed the different settings on my laptop. No matter what I tried, I could not improve the ghosting and crosstalk. Which sucks because these are so much more comfortable than my Sony's. So im gonna send them back to amazon for my money back. Its not only because it didnt improve the 3d picture but i also didnt like the hassle of the emitter. Oh well, I tried......


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21520423
> 
> 
> Alright. So after almost an hour of adjusting, which I actually had a friend come over and help. He sat back with the glasses on while I changed the different settings on my laptop. No matter what I tried, I could not improve the ghosting and crosstalk. Which sucks because these are so much more comfortable than my Sony's. So im gonna send them back to amazon for my money back. Its not only because it didnt improve the 3d picture but i also didnt like the hassle of the emitter. Oh well, I tried......



Its possible that the Sony sync output for the emitter triggers differently from how most emitters work. Sounds like you are stuck with the Sony glasses.


----------



## JewDaddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Its possible that the Sony sync output for the emitter triggers differently from how most emitters work. Sounds like you are stuck with the Sony glasses.



I guess thats a possibility. I was really hoping they would work better than my Sony's because they're so much more comfortable. Oh well..........


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21521541
> 
> 
> I guess thats a possibility. I was really hoping they would work better than my Sony's because they're so much more comfortable. Oh well..........



Did you have all other processing turned off on the Sony? Motion flow can screw up frame rates.


----------



## brahby

Where are you located? I'd trade you two pairs of Sony glasses for your set


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JewDaddy* /forum/post/21520423
> 
> 
> Alright. So after almost an hour of adjusting, which I actually had a friend come over and help. He sat back with the glasses on while I changed the different settings on my laptop. No matter what I tried, I could not improve the ghosting and crosstalk. Which sucks because these are so much more comfortable than my Sony's. So im gonna send them back to amazon for my money back. Its not only because it didnt improve the 3d picture but i also didnt like the hassle of the emitter. Oh well, I tried......



I felt the same way about these glasses. it was a hassle and a mess to leave the dongle hanging with tape next to my Sony external emitter. If the crosstalk improves I was thinking it was worth the hassle but that was not the case. I don't think there's a quick fix for our crosstalk problem. I'm surprise HX820 has the same issue with NX810. Get a different TV or call Sony and complain. Some people have success with getting their 3D circuit board replaced but I haven't heard if the crosstalk is the same.


----------



## dojoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21521560
> 
> 
> Did you have all other processing turned off on the Sony? Motion flow can screw up frame rates.



Nope. In 3D mode most of the settings are greyed out. Can't change them.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dojoman* /forum/post/21521870
> 
> 
> Nope. In 3D mode most of the settings are greyed out. Can't change them.




If you drop duty cycle down below 50% and still have ghosting its something with the TV. Under 50% should be enough to eliminate ghosting unless some internal TV processing is interpolating frames.


----------



## Hamel

Can someone please verify the LED response I should see on the emitter when I successfully do a factory reset? As per the manual, I press and hold the joystick to the left for at least 10 seconds and then release when the unit next cycles to 5 simultaneous green LEDs. The only visual response I then see is, about a second later, a resumption of the back-and-forth sweeping pattern of the red LED.


Is this what the manual means by "The factory Reset is complete when all LEDs flash really fast."?


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hamel* /forum/post/21523231
> 
> 
> Can someone please verify the LED response I should see on the emitter when I successfully do a factory reset? As per the manual, I press and hold the joystick to the left for at least 10 seconds and then release when the unit next cycles to 5 simultaneous green LEDs. The only visual response I then see is, about a second later, a resumption of the back-and-forth sweeping pattern of the red LED.
> 
> 
> Is this what the manual means by "The factory Reset is complete when all LEDs flash really fast."?



Yes it is exactly what they mean and from what you describe you are following the correct procedure. I had the exact same question myself when I first got it. The manual is unclear because I was expecting the lights to "flash". But by flash they mean go back to scrolling.


You can double check you did things correctly by making the settings really bad on purpose, then doing a factor reset and confirming that things look back to normal following the reset.


----------



## bd2003

Initial impressions are disappointing. Doesn't do a significantly better job controlling crosstalk than the stock samsung glasses. At least not $99 worth of difference.


I think Im just going to give up on active tech. Sucks with any flat panel.


----------



## mikemav

I've tried a ton of different displays and came to the same conclusion. I prefer DLP for 3D. I had a Mits 1080p DLP slim rear projection display (60") and it was amazing w/ PC on Nvidia 3D Vision 1080p checkerboard. 100% depth setting and still no ghosting. It wasn't great for console games in 3D since these are all 720p, and scaled to 1080p on this set looked pretty ragged. I switched to a Sony LED, bad. Then a Samsung LED flat panel (got this since it also supported checkerboard 1080p from a PC with the "rollermod"), and while 2D on the consoles @ 1080p looked amazing, 3D was a ghost-fest. I now have an LG passive, and it's loads better. Still not as good on PC as the Mits. I also have in another area an Acer 720p DLP projector and the 3D on that is ghost-free and amazing, either w/ DLP-Link, or these glasses (even better than DLP-Link.)


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've tried a ton of different displays and came to the same conclusion. I prefer DLP for 3D. I had a Mits 1080p DLP slim rear projection display (60") and it was amazing w/ PC on Nvidia 3D Vision 1080p checkerboard. 100% depth setting and still no ghosting. It wasn't great for console games in 3D since these are all 720p, and scaled to 1080p on this set looked pretty ragged. I switched to a Sony LED, bad. Then a Samsung LED flat panel (got this since it also supported checkerboard 1080p from a PC with the "rollermod"), and while 2D on the consoles @ 1080p looked amazing, 3D was a ghost-fest. I now have an LG passive, and it's loads better. Still not as good on PC as the Mits. I also have in another area an Acer 720p DLP projector and the 3D on that is ghost-free and amazing, either w/ DLP-Link, or these glasses (even better than DLP-Link.)



Well, the plasma is better than LCD by far - the crosstalk is only evident in really dark scenes. But I could say the same about the stock glasses. I guess the phosphor glow takes too long to completely go away. Seems to still be there even if I drop the duty down to almost nothing. It's probably better on a third generation set, but on my first gen it really spoils the fun.


I'm gonna fiddle with it for a little while longer to see what else I can do. Theyre def night and day more comfy than the stock samsungs, but performance-wise, they don't seem that much better.


----------



## bd2003

Did a little more tweaking, and got them to the point where they definitely make some difference over stock. I had to reduce the duty down to 65, and then fiddle with the delay to avoid any color shifting. Lowering duty below 65 produced unavoidable color shifts. The brightness is basically equivalent between the two sets at duty 65.


When I quickly swap back and forth between stock and these, there's a definite reduction in the intensity of the ghosting in dark, high contrast areas. The really obvious ghosting is still really obvious, but the minor cases are reduced noticeably. It's still not as big a difference as I'd hoped.


If you're willing to take an hour or so to fiddle, they're definitely better. For me, I'm not quite sure if they're $100 better.


----------



## Ronomy

These were a must for me since I use an ir blaster for components in another room and the ir emitter and glasses would have made the ir baster useless. Plus I love that you can turn your head away from the screen and not lose sync. Very happy with these glasses!


----------



## sddp

One thing that is a MAJOR drag and poor R&D about these glasses is the rubber attatchment that goes over your nose. It falls off easily and lost mine and with out it, it's painful to wear after 15 min.


My suggestion is to glue it on with crazy glue.


Now I have to go order that little piece.


----------



## ricwhite

Can anyone recommend a good USB hub that plugs in to an outlet that has enough power to charge these Monster 3D glasses. I bought this one from amazon and after 24 hours, the glasses were still not charged. I can't tell by reading the descriptions of the hubs whether they will charge the glasses or not. If someone has personal knowledge of one that works, please let me know. Thanks.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21533950
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good USB hub that plugs in to an outlet that has enough power to charge these Monster 3D glasses. I bought this one from amazon and after 24 hours, the glasses were still not charged. I can't tell by reading the descriptions of the hubs whether they will charge the glasses or not. If someone has personal knowledge of one that works, please let me know. Thanks.



Newegg and Amazon have a few good ones. You need one with higher output.


This is the one I used. I have several and I use it with my Blackberry and with the Monster glasses. Buy a few they are very inexpensive. I have also found that the ones with dual output do not have enough power to charge glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Char...321653&sr=8-12 


The charger from Belkin is good but you can only charge one item at a time since the power drops when you charge two at a time.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Mini-Su...7322121&sr=8-3


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21533950
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good USB hub that plugs in to an outlet that has enough power to charge these Monster 3D glasses. I bought this one from amazon and after 24 hours, the glasses were still not charged. I can't tell by reading the descriptions of the hubs whether they will charge the glasses or not. If someone has personal knowledge of one that works, please let me know. Thanks.



Oh great I just bought this one also to try and charge my Optoma RFs. I thought 500mA would be enough.


----------



## ricwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek* /forum/post/21536991
> 
> 
> Oh great I just bought this one also to try and charge my Optoma RFs. I thought 500mA would be enough.



I went ahead and purchased the Monster iSlimCharger - which is the one recommended in the Monster 3d glasses manual. It is only a single charger, so I guess I'll have to rotate charge my 4 pairs of glasses. The other one just didn't work. I plugged my glasses in my computer USB and the glasses were charged in a few hours, but I need a charger for the theater room.


Here is a link to the Monster charger.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *getchevyn* /forum/post/21512767
> 
> 
> It's on the bottom of this page. The adjustment software is in the "firmware" download.
> 
> http://www.monstercable.com/max3d/default.asp



need some help here.. i got multiple "update failures" and even after i got a firmware update confirmation, the process to get the glasses updated seems like it's stuck and i can't get the emitter to do anything but have the middle red light lit up...it can't transmit 3d right now it seems.


PS - i've tried the factory reset via pressing the left joystick - not working. i think i bricked my emitter trying to update it :-(


----------



## oleus

i see that a couple of other people earlier in this thread had the same "red LED stuck in the middle" problem after trying to upgrade the firmware. a fix was mentioned to exist but wasn't described. thsnks in advance!!


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21564271
> 
> 
> need some help here.. i got multiple "update failures" and even after i got a firmware update confirmation, the process to get the glasses updated seems like it's stuck and i can't get the emitter to do anything but have the middle red light lit up...it can't transmit 3d right now it seems.
> 
> 
> PS - i've tried the factory reset via pressing the left joystick - not working. i think i bricked my emitter trying to update it :-(



I have several extra emitters and I have done the update on several. On the first one I had a freeze and was able to do the update on the second try. You might want to try it again.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21566849
> 
> 
> I have several extra emitters and I have done the update on several. On the first one I had a freeze and was able to do the update on the second try. You might want to try it again.



i've tried dozens of times - i get constant "update failed" notices after the green bar fills up a bit...sometimes it instantly says "firmware update complete - please remove usb from emitter and plug back in" but the emitter is still stuck in update mode (middle red light stuck on). i left it off overnight and tried again a few times today, same result.


way earlier in the thread a couple of other people had the same issue and while a fix was mentioned it was not described or followed up on with the people describing the issue.


it won't flash on when a 3d signal is sent to the projector with it hooked in, all i get is the one red light :-( tried the factory reset option (holding joysick to the left for ten seconds) - nothing


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21566919
> 
> 
> i've tried dozens of times - i get constant "update failed" notices after the green bar fills up a bit...sometimes it instantly says "firmware update complete - please remove usb from emitter and plug back in" but the emitter is still stuck in update mode (middle red light stuck on). i left it off overnight and tried again a few times today, same result.
> 
> 
> way earlier in the thread a couple of other people had the same issue and while a fix was mentioned it was not described or followed up on with the people describing the issue.
> 
> 
> it won't flash on when a 3d signal is sent to the projector with it hooked in, all i get is the one red light :-( tried the factory reset option (holding joysick to the left for ten seconds) - nothing



Wow, it really sounds that you might have a bad emitter. Contact Monster and they will probably send you a new one. If you are unsuccessful PM me.

next week. I may be able to help you.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21567543
> 
> 
> Wow, it really sounds that you might have a bad emitter. Contact Monster and they will probably send you a new one. If you are unsuccessful PM me.
> 
> next week. I may be able to help you.



thanks, i appreciate that.


i'll contact monster tomorrow and see if i have any replacement options.


----------



## lovingdvd

Anyone know if the latest firmware from Monster is still 1.05.04 as of at least a few months ago, or has it been updated?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd* /forum/post/21587924
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the latest firmware from Monster is still 1.05.04 as of at least a few months ago, or has it been updated?



This one is the latest.


----------



## NetCoder

These glasses are fantastic! So much better than Xpand and ViewSonic! I am so happy with this purchase. Now if I could disable DLP Link on my Samsung TV....


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek* /forum/post/21483437
> 
> 
> I have the Optoma RF version of the glasses and did some testing with my new Optoma GT750 projector. I was noticing ghosting to the level where I did not expect with the Optoma DLP. At first I thought I would need to tune the glasses/emitter combo. I'm using their 'default' configuration right out of box which I assume is already set for optimum Optima DLP use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I found is that the lenses need to be as parallel as possible to the screen and your eye's viewing path as perpendicular to the lenses for optimum ghosting and color performance. I was somewhat 'reclining' in my seat and as the lens became less parallel to the screen the ghosting increases. This sucks for using a recliner...so I tilted the frames downward a bit...the frame handles lifted off my ears...but the ghosting decreases and disappears. However the other artifact is that the picture darkens a bit (with a somewhat green tint.) This I attribute to my eye's viewing angle now hitting the lens at a less than perpendicular angle causing more light loss/polarization.
> 
> If anyone is using Bit Cauldron type glasses with Optoma projectors did you find a need to tune them out of the box?



Just noticed this post! Not sure if you figured it out but if you increase the duty cycle to a little greater than 100% you can eliminate the color shift as you move your head. I have the original emitter firmware that came from VIP and the default settings i believe is 105% and that worked perfectly with my Acer H5360 DLP. If I reduced it to 100% it was like you said. Color shifting as you turn your head. So not sure if other resellers including Monster use a 105% duty cycle default. It may be as high as 107 I would need to check it but make the adjustment as you watch something in 3D and increase duty cycle until the color shifting goes away. Below 100% will get worse because you are reducing the amount of time one color is flashed up on the screen. Remember there is a rotating color wheel so reducing duty cycle means you are reducing the amout of time one color is displayed.










Ron


----------



## brahby

I just got these and I have to say that while I really love how lightweight they are, it just didn't get much better for me than that. I played with the adjustments and just couldn't really improve on the ghosting enough without compromising the brightness. Also I wasn't a fan of the buzzing sound from the glasses in my ear or the brightness pulsing that I noticed when I had paused the movie. These are going to most likely get sent back.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brahby* /forum/post/21594465
> 
> 
> I just got these and I have to say that while I really love how lightweight they are, it just didn't get much better for me than that. I played with the adjustments and just couldn't really improve on the ghosting enough without compromising the brightness. Also I wasn't a fan of the buzzing sound from the glasses in my ear or the brightness pulsing that I noticed when I had paused the movie. These are going to most likely get sent back.



That's the trick...reduce duty cycle so that you don't see ghosting. At least on everything but DLP. Its a compromise between ghosting and brightness. You will just have to live with the glasses that came with your TV or go DLP. Simply amazing how good DLP looks with 3D material.


----------



## adidino

I just order the glasses+emitter kit on Amazon. Price is substantially reduced below retail. Is Monster blowing these out for some reason? I also noticed it's not very easy to find a pair of glasses on their own for purchase. Just the kits...


----------



## rwestley

It does seem that Monster is getting out of the 3d Glasses business. They did not display them at CEDIA or at CES. When I asked why the rep told me that there were too many issues with different 3d formats. He also told me that they are still selling those in stocks.

It also seems that they are reducing the price to sell them out. They are a great buy for the price they are selling at on Amazon at this time.


----------



## Rolls-Royce

I'll bet there were way more support issues and their associated costs than Monster wanted to put up with. Also Optoma is selling the same glasses and transmitter for less money, undercutting this part of their business.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce* /forum/post/21631644
> 
> 
> I'll bet there were way more support issues and their associated costs than Monster wanted to put up with. Also Optoma is selling the same glasses and transmitter for less money, undercutting this part of their business.



The MSP price for the Optoma is less but the price price on Amazon for the Monster glasses with the transmitter is much lower than Optoma's price. I have never seen them for less. I would suggest using Amazon and select Trade Point and the company to buy them from. I got them in two days.

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...9052172&sr=8-1


----------



## adidino

So is anyone in need or interested in just the RF emitter? I just need another pair of glasses. So if anyone is interested, we can work out the cost difference for just the emitter. Maybe split the cost in half? I'll buy the kit and send the emitter out to whom ever wants to do this.


Thought I would put it out there...


----------



## ccotenj

^^^


i've got a spare emitter sitting around doing nothing...







drop me a pm...


edit: oops, you want the glasses not the emitter... not enough coffee yet...


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21566919
> 
> 
> i've tried dozens of times - i get constant "update failed" notices after the green bar fills up a bit...sometimes it instantly says "firmware update complete - please remove usb from emitter and plug back in" but the emitter is still stuck in update mode (middle red light stuck on). i left it off overnight and tried again a few times today, same result.
> 
> 
> way earlier in the thread a couple of other people had the same issue and while a fix was mentioned it was not described or followed up on with the people describing the issue.
> 
> 
> it won't flash on when a 3d signal is sent to the projector with it hooked in, all i get is the one red light :-( tried the factory reset option (holding joysick to the left for ten seconds) - nothing




Your stuck in update mode because of the various differences in USB controllers and the software update was written for high throughput. Some controllers will not handle it and also make sure you don't have any other USB devices connected but the mouse and keyboard during update. Wireless USB dongles can interrupt the transfer.


The 3DVIP Theater threads make mention of that issue and it was corrected in the firmware written for those RF glasses but apparently not for Monster. The VIP firmware was deliberately slowed down for transfer to fix that issue. Unfortunately using another private labeled firmware could possibly cause an issue with Monster even though they are the same glasses. But that would only be an issue if the emitter was returned to Monster in my opinion.


----------



## boulders

For any of you wondering what the monster 3d glasses look like after you have sat on them!












Doh!, I do like these glasses seem to get a lot lesss eyestrain than the ones that came with my HW30..


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21633281
> 
> 
> The MSP price for the Optoma is less but the price price on Amazon for the Monster glasses with the transmitter is much lower than Optoma's price. I have never seen them for less. I would suggest using Amazon and select Trade Point and the company to buy them from. I got them in two days.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...9052172&sr=8-1



This is a relatively recent development, I think. I was looking for more glasses a few months ago and at that time the Monster glasses were selling everywhere for MSRP or close to it. The Optomas were advertised for less, but no one had them in stock until a bit later. I ended up holding out for the Optomas, and I'm glad I did.


----------



## boulders

Do the optima glasses work with the monster transmitter?


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boulders* /forum/post/21634241
> 
> 
> Do the optima glasses work with the monster transmitter?



yes, they are the same glasses just with Optoma branding on them. and the new low prices on the monstervisions are about in line with what i paid for the Optoma rf's in september (i already need two more, scratched one par and had a cleaning mishap with the other!).


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21633688
> 
> 
> Your stuck in update mode because of the various differences in USB controllers and the software update was written for high throughput. Some controllers will not handle it and also make sure you don't have any other USB devices connected but the mouse and keyboard during update. Wireless USB dongles can interrupt the transfer.
> 
> 
> The 3DVIP Theater threads make mention of that issue and it was corrected in the firmware written for those RF glasses but apparently not for Monster. The VIP firmware was deliberately slowed down for transfer to fix that issue. Unfortunately using another private labeled firmware could possibly cause an issue with Monster even though they are the same glasses. But that would only be an issue if the emitter was returned to Monster in my opinion.



Try turning off the firewall. I have several transmitters and have had no problem doing the update. The other VIP firmware would probably work and I doubt that Monster would even check for it. They are selling the glasses out and would probably just send you a replacement.


----------



## bd2003

Will the optima glasses work fine with the monster kit? I'm assuming so, just want to be sure.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21635194
> 
> 
> Try turning off the firewall. I have several transmitters and have had no problem doing the update. The other VIP firmware would probably work and I doubt that Monster would even check for it. They are selling the glasses out and would probably just send you a replacement.



the VIP firmware worked perfectly for my Optoma/Monster emitter FYI


----------



## rwestley




oleus said:


> the VIP firmware worked perfectly for my Optoma/Monster emitter FYI[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> It seems that the VIP is newer firmware than the Monster it has a later number.


----------



## Robut

Would anyone please report whether these glasses have successfully reduced crosstalk. This is the only concern I have with the 3D from my un55c8000. it's a 2010 model and crosstalk is a factor in my enjoyment of 3D. I've found little comment on this aspect of these glasses, maybe it's because there is no benefit.


----------



## oleus

you should be able to tune the glasses via the emitter or the firmware software to eliminate ghosting. i only see ghosting when a video game's default 3d settings are out of whack and need adjusting in the game menu, or when i lean way back and have the glasses at a 45 degree angle relative to the screen (many others have noticed this in terms of the viewing angle and crosstalk).


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21633368
> 
> 
> So is anyone in need or interested in just the RF emitter? I just need another pair of glasses. So if anyone is interested, we can work out the cost difference for just the emitter. Maybe split the cost in half? I'll buy the kit and send the emitter out to whom ever wants to do this.
> 
> 
> Thought I would put it out there...



adidino, just buy the Optoma glasses for $69 on amazon, they work with the monster kit no problem. Same glasses.


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21640295
> 
> 
> you should be able to tune the glasses via the emitter or the firmware software to eliminate ghosting. i only see ghosting when a video game's default 3d settings are out of whack and need adjusting in the game menu, or when i lean way back and have the glasses at a 45 degree angle relative to the screen (many others have noticed this in terms of the viewing angle and crosstalk).



Thanks for responding to my question about crosstalk.


----------



## LVS

Just bought a Sony HW30AES Projector and the IR emitter on it has to be in front of the room firing back at their glasses or they loose sync, the main weakness of the HW30 btw, the terrible 3d-emitter.


Bought the Monster Vision 3D Max which work great and extra Optoma glasses which also work great. However, it appears that Monster is indeed phasing these out. I see an Optoma RF transmitter on Amazon, but don't see anything other than the Monster kit that has IR Receiver piece that plugs in to the transmitter. Just concerned that if either one or both go bad, that I would be out of luck for replacing this. Any ideas on other alternatives or perhaps a source for the IR receiver.


Thanks.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21643747
> 
> 
> Just bought a Sony HW30AES Projector and the IR emitter on it has to be in front of the room firing back at their glasses or they loose sync, the main weakness of the HW30 btw, the terrible 3d-emitter.
> 
> 
> Bought the Monster Vision 3D Max which work great and extra Optoma glasses which also work great. However, it appears that Monster is indeed phasing these out. I see an Optoma RF transmitter on Amazon, but don't see anything other than the Monster kit that has IR Receiver piece that plugs in to the transmitter. Just concerned that if either one or both go bad, that I would be out of luck for replacing this. Any ideas on other alternatives or perhaps a source for the IR receiver.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I would suggest that you buy a pair or two of the Monster kits with the transmitters. The price now is great and who knows how long they will last. The cost of the whole kit is only 15 more than the Optoma glasses alone.

As you know the the Monster glasses and transmitters are the same. I suggest that you update the firmware to the latest version as soon as you get the glasses.


----------



## LVS

Thanks rwestley. I updated the firmware on the transmitter I have successfully, but how do you tell if the firmware on the glasses were updated? I didn't see any additional LED flashing outside of the normal fast flashing at power on and then a slower flashing after that. Thx.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21644075
> 
> 
> I would suggest that you buy a pair or two of the Monster kits with the transmitters. The price now is great and who knows how long they will last. The cost of the whole kit is only 15 more than the Optoma glasses alone.
> 
> As you know the the Monster glasses and transmitters are the same. I suggest that you update the firmware to the latest version as soon as you get the glasses.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21644841
> 
> 
> Thanks rwestley. I updated the firmware on the transmitter I have successfully, but how do you tell if the firmware on the glasses were updated? I didn't see any additional LED flashing outside of the normal fast flashing at power on and then a slower flashing after that. Thx.



The glasses will automatically update when you reinstall the transmitter on your device.


----------



## jimmyj2

Hey guys, the monster website used to say these would work with Mitsubishi projectors. I was just about to call them to confirm if they would work with the HC 7800, but the glasses have been pulled from the main website it looks like.


I think the monsters may have worked with the Mits 9000. Anybody have any clue if they might work with the new HC 7800 with it's proprietary glasses??


----------



## latexii

Is this compatible with Epson 6000 (US 3010) glasses ? Search didnt help me =/


----------



## Robut

Can anyone tell me if the firmware utility is compatible with Windows XP. I have an old laptop that I would like to use for adjusting the transmitter on the fly sitting at a good viewing position.


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robut* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the firmware utility is compatible with Windows XP. I have an old laptop that I would like to use for adjusting the transmitter on the fly sitting at a good viewing position.



It is.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21538485
> 
> 
> I went ahead and purchased the Monster iSlimCharger - which is the one recommended in the Monster 3d glasses manual. It is only a single charger, so I guess I'll have to rotate charge my 4 pairs of glasses. The other one just didn't work. I plugged my glasses in my computer USB and the glasses were charged in a few hours, but I need a charger for the theater room.
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the Monster charger.



You can use a Belkin 4-port USB hub which I believe is in the 2000-2500ma range. That way you can charge more than one pair simultaneously. 500ma is cutting it too close for one pair.


----------



## ProjectorNerd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jimmyj2* /forum/post/21649622
> 
> 
> Hey guys, the monster website used to say these would work with Mitsubishi projectors. I was just about to call them to confirm if they would work with the HC 7800, but the glasses have been pulled from the main website it looks like.
> 
> 
> I think the monsters may have worked with the Mits 9000. Anybody have any clue if they might work with the new HC 7800 with it's proprietary glasses??



From what I've read, the Mitsubishi glasses are proprietary to the HC7800 - they're supposed to make the performance better. I'm not sure if the Monster ones will work, but I imagine they won't work as well as the Mits ones will.


----------



## zfc6e

Could you please post your best setting for SOny HW30?

Thanks


----------



## rwestley

I am wondering is Monster is selling their stock of these glasses out. It seems that they did not sell enough at the regular price. They are being sold now at a very good price by some of Amazon's vendors and other sources. Optoma seems to still support the same glasses with their name on them.


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21660401
> 
> 
> I am wondering is Monster is selling their stock of these glasses out. It seems that they did not sell enough at the regular price. They are being sold now at a very good price by some of Amazon's vendors and other sources. Optoma seems to still support the same glasses with their name on them.



This is the feeling I am getting. Monster took their main web page down for these last week and it is hard to find anything about them on their site. In addition as reported above they were not shown at any of the recent trade shows.


----------



## ricwhite

I have some bad news. I'm really sorry to report this since I initially found the Monster/Optoma 3D glasses to my liking. I liked the fit, comfort, image quality, and field of vision. I have a Epson 6010 and 2 pairs of Epson glasses. They don't fit on me at all. I bought 1 Monster 3D kit and 3 Optoma glasses. All worked initially. After only six hours on one, it died. It was weird because it was fully charged. When turned on, I got the three slow blinking lights indicating it was above 50% charge. In just minutes, it stopped working right when movie viewing. It wouldn't turn on, no blinking indicator lights. When I plugged it it, no charging light. After I left it to charge for a few hours. Nothing. It was dead. It was still within amazon.com's window of return, so I sent it in for refund.


Just today, another one died. Couldn't turn on. Couldn't recharge. Nothing. That's two out of the four that had less than 10 viewing hours on them completely die. I was at the last few days window of return, so I just mailed that one back to amazon as well.


Even if the remaining two work, I will now always worry that they will die in the middle of a movie - never again to be revived. Totally unacceptable - especially when I have guests over. I need something reliable.


At this point, I must give these glasses 1 out of 5 stars and warn all potential buyers that they are unreliable. I will update this thread if any of the remaining two also die.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21664446
> 
> 
> I have some bad news. I'm really sorry to report this since I initially found the Monster/Optoma 3D glasses to my liking. I liked the fit, comfort, image quality, and field of vision. I have a Epson 6010 and 2 pairs of Epson glasses. They don't fit on me at all. I bought 1 Monster 3D kit and 3 Optoma glasses. All worked initially. After only six hours on one, it died. It was weird because it was fully charged. When turned on, I got the three slow blinking lights indicating it was above 50% charge. In just minutes, it stopped working right when movie viewing. It wouldn't turn on, no blinking indicator lights. When I plugged it it, no charging light. After I left it to charge for a few hours. Nothing. It was dead. It was still within amazon.com's window of return, so I sent it in for refund.
> 
> 
> Just today, another one died. Couldn't turn on. Couldn't recharge. Nothing. That's two out of the four that had less than 10 viewing hours on them completely die. I was at the last few days window of return, so I just mailed that one back to amazon as well.
> 
> 
> Even if the remaining two work, I will now always worry that they will die in the middle of a movie - never again to be revived. Totally unacceptable - especially when I have guests over. I need something reliable.
> 
> 
> At this point, I must give these glasses 1 out of 5 stars and warn all potential buyers that they are unreliable. I will update this thread if any of the remaining two also die.



Just a little trick for you that might work. Mine did the same thing. Stopped charging and wouldn't turn on. I unscrewed the little plate inside the frame (the side without the USB port) and unplugged the lithium battery and plugged it back in. Glasses powered up and started working again. No issues since. Something worth trying.


----------



## ricwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21664488
> 
> 
> Just a little trick for you that might work. Mine did the same thing. Stopped charging and wouldn't turn on. I unscrewed the little plate inside the frame (the side without the USB port) and unplugged the lithium battery and plugged it back in. Glasses powered up and started working again. No issues since. Something worth trying.



Thanks for the tip, Tony. I was going to open them up and play around with the components, but figured it might void the warranty or something. Since they were in the refund window, I took that route. Now that the rest are outside that window, it's good to know there may be a fix by re-setting the battery. Like I said, I really like the glasses when they are working.


----------



## rwestley

It also could be the charger that you are using. Is it putting out not enough power to charge the batteries. If you are using a computer to charge them this could be the cause of the problem.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21665078
> 
> 
> It also could be the charger that you are using. Is it putting out not enough power to charge the batteries. If you are using a computer to charge them this could be the cause of the problem.



PC USB charge should be plenty. I charge my phone with it all the time. Takes longer but it works.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21664446
> 
> 
> I have some bad news. I'm really sorry to report this since I initially found the Monster/Optoma 3D glasses to my liking. I liked the fit, comfort, image quality, and field of vision. I have a Epson 6010 and 2 pairs of Epson glasses. They don't fit on me at all. I bought 1 Monster 3D kit and 3 Optoma glasses. All worked initially. After only six hours on one, it died. It was weird because it was fully charged. When turned on, I got the three slow blinking lights indicating it was above 50% charge. In just minutes, it stopped working right when movie viewing. It wouldn't turn on, no blinking indicator lights. When I plugged it it, no charging light. After I left it to charge for a few hours. Nothing. It was dead. It was still within amazon.com's window of return, so I sent it in for refund.
> 
> 
> Just today, another one died. Couldn't turn on. Couldn't recharge. Nothing. That's two out of the four that had less than 10 viewing hours on them completely die. I was at the last few days window of return, so I just mailed that one back to amazon as well.
> 
> 
> Even if the remaining two work, I will now always worry that they will die in the middle of a movie - never again to be revived. Totally unacceptable - especially when I have guests over. I need something reliable.
> 
> 
> At this point, I must give these glasses 1 out of 5 stars and warn all potential buyers that they are unreliable. I will update this thread if any of the remaining two also die.




We went through all this last year in the 3DVIP Theater and Displayer threads.


Bit Cauldron determined last summer a batch was made with an improper value charge resistor. This prevents them from never reaching full charge, this gradually keeps recharging to lower threshholds on subsequent charging. Whether you have some from that group or a similar problem has developed on a new batch is unknown.


Monster and Optoma do not manufacture them, they are just rebranded for them by Bit Cauldron.


3DVIP replaced their customer RF glasses from a fresh confirmed batch last year. I know because I went through four pairs and submitted the charge voltage data to them.


Most of the time you can get by with a 500ma usb source but I was informed by one of the BC engineers if the SOC "state of charge" reaches a certain point the charge controller circuitry could demand up to 750ma. If your souce can't meet that demand then they will remain undercharged.


My replacements that were 3DVIP branded now remain charged for months. My bad ones would go dead in a matter of days after charging and in the OFF state.


----------



## ricwhite

Interesting information about the charging issues. However, it is puzzling how one of mine that went bad WAS fully charged and just instantly died 10 minutes later while watching a movie. Went from full charge (according to the light code) to dead. Couldn't be revived. Doesn't make much sense to me that it shows at least 50-100% charge (three blinks) - which should be worth at least 30 hours of use - and then die 10 minutes later.


FYI, I used the Monster AC iSlimCharger charger as recommended in the manual that comes with the Monster/Optoma glasses. It would be odd if they would print in their manuals to obtain a charger that is insufficient. As I said, the glasses showed full charge (or thereabouts) according to the code. I would hope if they had a known problem last year, those models were recalled and replaced with updated models. I couldn't still be getting OLD INVENTORY at this point (I would hope).


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21665957
> 
> 
> Interesting information about the charging issues. However, it is puzzling how one of mine that went bad WAS fully charged and just instantly died 10 minutes later while watching a movie. Went from full charge (according to the light code) to dead. Couldn't be revived. Doesn't make much sense to me that it shows at least 50-100% charge (three blinks) - which should be worth at least 30 hours of use - and then die 10 minutes later.
> 
> 
> FYI, I used the Monster AC iSlimCharger charger as recommended in the manual that comes with the Monster/Optoma glasses. It would be odd if they would print in their manuals to obtain a charger that is insufficient. As I said, the glasses showed full charge (or thereabouts) according to the code. I would hope if they had a known problem last year, those models were recalled and replaced with updated models. I couldn't still be getting OLD INVENTORY at this point (I would hope).



Your just proved that point, the light code is useless, actual measurements would show that you more than likely only reached 3.2VDC. If I remember correctly shutdown voltage is around 3.0, full charge is 3.75VDC. So that gives you roughly a .75V range between 0-100%. If it never reached 3.75v, and I saw that with the defect glasses then your capacity is greatly reduced.


Monstervision never recalled them or were involved in that issue, 3DVIP worked on it and offered replacement to *their* customer base that had the problem. I can't answer what Monster or Optoma has received for inventory as I own 3DVIP versions. As far as I know Monster or Optoma are totally unaware of that subject since the 3DVIP user base were the ones that assisted with making the determination and follow through with Bit Cauldron.


I am only pointing it out to you Monster users you may also be experiencing the same problem. If your glasses will not store the charge for the rated time length then have Monster or Optoma exchange them. Good way to find out about their customer service.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21664855
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, Tony. I was going to open them up and play around with the components, but figured it might void the warranty or something. Since they were in the refund window, I took that route. Now that the rest are outside that window, it's good to know there may be a fix by re-setting the battery. Like I said, I really like the glasses when they are working.



I wonder if the latest firmware is locking up and causing this issue.


----------



## misterkit

Anyone having issues with the ir receiver picking up a signal? I have a Sony 95 projector and have tried two different kits. I have also tried it on my two Sony tv's. All are 3d models. The rf converter just blinks moving red no matter what orientation I use on the ir receiver. All of the plugs are firmly inserted.


The firmware is up to date.


The Sony 3d glasses work fine so I know the signal is being transmitted.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21665209
> 
> 
> PC USB charge should be plenty. I charge my phone with it all the time. Takes longer but it works.



The reason why I thought about using a more powerful charger is that many computers usb output will not charge the I-pad and some other devices. I don't know the output of the Monster Charger but I am using an external charger with an output of 1000ma. My Blackberry will also not charge through the computer.


----------



## ricwhite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21668746
> 
> 
> The reason why I thought about using a more powerful charger is that many computers usb output will not charge the I-pad and some other devices. I don't know the output of the Monster Charger but I am using an external charger with an output of 1000ma. My Blackberry will also not charge through the computer.



One of the problems with buying an external charger is that most of them don't specify their "output" numbers. I initially bought a Belkin USB charger for the glasses. No specifications. Didn't work. I searched and searched online for another USB charger. Very few listed ANY output numbers. It's a crap shoot. So, I ended up getting the Monster SlimCharger because it was LISTED IN THE MONSTER 3D MANUAL as recommended. But there are NO specifications on that charger either, so WHO KNOWS what the output really is.


The problem is even more complicated than that. Not only is it rare to find a USB charger for the glasses that lists any output specifications, but the glasses themselves don't list any INPUT specifications for charging. The buyer is completely blind to what is needed to recharge these things. It's totally hit or miss and if you're wrong you could even be damaging your glasses.


There needs to be a lot more information and standardization with regards to 3D equipment.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21665209
> 
> 
> PC USB charge should be plenty. I charge my phone with it all the time. Takes longer but it works.



That entirely depends on the PC. Laptop USB ports are notoriously variable in their output.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricwhite* /forum/post/21669158
> 
> 
> One of the problems with buying an external charger is that most of them don't specify their "output" numbers. I initially bought a Belkin USB charger for the glasses. No specifications. Didn't work. I searched and searched online for another USB charger. Very few listed ANY output numbers. It's a crap shoot. So, I ended up getting the Monster SlimCharger because it was LISTED IN THE MONSTER 3D MANUAL as recommended. But there are NO specifications on that charger either, so WHO KNOWS what the output really is.
> 
> 
> The problem is even more complicated than that. Not only is it rare to find a USB charger for the glasses that lists any output specifications, but the glasses themselves don't list any INPUT specifications for charging. The buyer is completely blind to what is needed to recharge these things. It's totally hit or miss and if you're wrong you could even be damaging your glasses.
> 
> 
> There needs to be a lot more information and standardization with regards to 3D equipment.




I use this one, has 2.6 amps at 5V.


BELKIN F5U234-APL-S 4 Port USB Hub


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterkit* /forum/post/21668151
> 
> 
> Anyone having issues with the ir receiver picking up a signal? I have a Sony 95 projector and have tried two different kits. I have also tried it on my two Sony tv's. All are 3d models. The rf converter just blinks moving red no matter what orientation I use on the ir receiver. All of the plugs are firmly inserted.
> 
> 
> The firmware is up to date.
> 
> 
> The Sony 3d glasses work fine so I know the signal is being transmitted.



How far apart are the emitter and receiver? If you are trying this with your lights on and their is much more than a few feet between the emitter and receiver you will have problems. Try turning off the lights if you haven't, otherwise you might have a faulty receiver.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21671716
> 
> 
> How far apart are the emitter and receiver? If you are trying this with your lights on and their is much more than a few feet between the emitter and receiver you will have problems. Try turning off the lights if you haven't, otherwise you might have a faulty receiver.



Not sure if you are using the external emitter from Sony. That's what I'm using for my VW1000. I have the Monster IR receiver and sony emitter taped together. Glasses sync up without issue.


----------



## misterkit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21671716
> 
> 
> How far apart are the emitter and receiver? If you are trying this with your lights on and their is much more than a few feet between the emitter and receiver you will have problems. Try turning off the lights if you haven't, otherwise you might have a faulty receiver.



I'm using the built in emitter from the Sony 95. The Sony 3d glasses that were supplied with that work fine with the PJ and the other 2 Sony 3d tv's I have, regardless if the lights are on or off.


On the Sony TV's I found the IR transmitter for the glasses and performed a test. With the Sony glasses on, I verified 3D was working. I then covered the IR transmitter with my finger and the Sony glasses no longer work. I then took the Monster IR receiver and put it directly over the location where I placed my finger. The scrolling red lights just kept going. I changed the orientation of the receiver, flipped it over, etc and still nothing changes.


A similar test was performed with the projector. Even if I held the receiver 3 feet in front of the projector, blocking the light path, it changes nothing.


Now whats interesting is that this is the second kit I have tried it with. Both kits perform the same way. I have a hard time believing that I have 2 defective kits, but I suppose it could happen.


I do know that the Sony 95 is compatible with the Monster glasses and people are using it the same way I am (I have seen pictures with the IR receiver location).


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterkit* /forum/post/21675937
> 
> 
> I'm using the built in emitter from the Sony 95. The Sony 3d glasses that were supplied with that work fine with the PJ and the other 2 Sony 3d tv's I have, regardless if the lights are on or off.
> 
> 
> On the Sony TV's I found the IR transmitter for the glasses and performed a test. With the Sony glasses on, I verified 3D was working. I then covered the IR transmitter with my finger and the Sony glasses no longer work. I then took the Monster IR receiver and put it directly over the location where I placed my finger. The scrolling red lights just kept going. I changed the orientation of the receiver, flipped it over, etc and still nothing changes.
> 
> 
> A similar test was performed with the projector. Even if I held the receiver 3 feet in front of the projector, blocking the light path, it changes nothing.
> 
> 
> Now whats interesting is that this is the second kit I have tried it with. Both kits perform the same way. I have a hard time believing that I have 2 defective kits, but I suppose it could happen.
> 
> 
> I do know that the Sony 95 is compatible with the Monster glasses and people are using it the same way I am (I have seen pictures with the IR receiver location).



I know it probably won't make a difference but have you tried swapping the IR receiver with RF Transmitters? Also make sure the IR receiver is fully plugged in to the socket. I found it to be contrary at times. Good luck. Let us know the solution if you ever get there.


----------



## Hamel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterkit* /forum/post/21668151
> 
> 
> Anyone having issues with the ir receiver picking up a signal? I have a Sony 95 projector and have tried two different kits. I have also tried it on my two Sony tv's. All are 3d models. The rf converter just blinks moving red no matter what orientation I use on the ir receiver. All of the plugs are firmly inserted.
> 
> 
> The firmware is up to date.
> 
> 
> The Sony 3d glasses work fine so I know the signal is being transmitted.



I bought three Monster kits and could not get any of the IR receivers to work with my 3D TV. Granted, my TV is an off-brand -- a NuVision -- and Monster telephone tech support suggested that the NuVision 3D IR format might not be one that is recognizable by the Monster IR receiver. However, further investigation on my part indicated that the NuVision 3D IR format is the Samsung 3D IR format. I confirmed this by buying a pair of Samsung 3D active glasses (model SSG-2100AB) and, sure enough, these 3D glasses worked just fine with my NuVision TV. I doubt that the Monster IR receiver is also incompatible with the supposedly more-mainstream Samsung 3D IR format, and so I concluded that the Monster IR receivers were faulty. This conclusion was also supported by the fact that I could never get the Monster IR receivers to reset to factory defaults, as per the troubleshooting tips in the Monster manual. (Specifically, I could never get the fast flashing lights on the IR receiver that would indicate a successful factory reset.)


----------



## Xavier1

Have you guys tried updating the firmware? I don't own these glasses but I read that another user did this and it added additional compatibility.


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hamel* /forum/post/21679107
> 
> 
> I bought three Monster kits and could not get any of the IR receivers to work with my 3D TV. Granted, my TV is an off-brand -- a NuVision -- and Monster telephone tech support suggested that the NuVision 3D IR format might not be one that is recognizable by the Monster IR receiver. However, further investigation on my part indicated that the NuVision 3D IR format is the Samsung 3D IR format. I confirmed this by buying a pair of Samsung 3D active glasses (model SSG-2100AB) and, sure enough, these 3D glasses worked just fine with my NuVision TV. I doubt that the Monster IR receiver is also incompatible with the supposedly more-mainstream Samsung 3D IR format, and so I concluded that the Monster IR receivers were faulty. This conclusion was also supported by the fact that I could never get the Monster IR receivers to reset to factory defaults, as per the troubleshooting tips in the Monster manual. (Specifically, I could never get the fast flashing lights on the IR receiver that would indicate a successful factory reset.)



I just want to jump in here with my two cents. I thought my Monster glasses were absolutely dead. It turns out the plug for the IR receiver at the transmitter fits extremely tightly. I thought I would break it I had to push it in so hard. Also the power button on the glasses is so stiff I had to press it as hard as I could for several seconds with my thumb nail. Between not successfully plugging in or powering on I was ready to send them back.


I'm very glad I didn't. After some tuning with the software I eliminated a significant amount of crosstalk. With my Samsung 2010 model, which is known for crosstalk, I set the duty at 60 and worked the delay up and down. Each mouse click on the arrows bumps it in increments of 50. The best delay for me is to back it down from 10250 to 9750. This is dark for some dispays but not the Samsung un55c8000. It's still brighter than most plasma displays.


With the above adjustment and Samsung's top of the line 2011 Bluray player, the BDD7500, I believe my setup can match any 2011 and maybe 2012 lcd display in 3D. Most movies if I look for crosstalk like a hawk I see it 2-3 times very faintly, mostly at beginning titles that usually have huge crosstalk.


Hope this helps.


----------



## Hamel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Xavier1* /forum/post/21683510
> 
> 
> Have you guys tried updating the firmware? I don't own these glasses but I read that another user did this and it added additional compatibility.



Yeah, the firmware upgrade went just fine on each of my three RF emitters.


I also did indeed use a good deal of force to make sure that all plugs were fully inserted, i.e., all connections were nice and tight.


But in the end, none of the three IR receivers/RF emitters was ever able to pick up a 3D IR signal from my TV.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterkit* /forum/post/21675937
> 
> 
> I'm using the built in emitter from the Sony 95. The Sony 3d glasses that were supplied with that work fine with the PJ and the other 2 Sony 3d tv's I have, regardless if the lights are on or off.
> 
> 
> On the Sony TV's I found the IR transmitter for the glasses and performed a test. With the Sony glasses on, I verified 3D was working. I then covered the IR transmitter with my finger and the Sony glasses no longer work. I then took the Monster IR receiver and put it directly over the location where I placed my finger. The scrolling red lights just kept going. I changed the orientation of the receiver, flipped it over, etc and still nothing changes.
> 
> 
> A similar test was performed with the projector. Even if I held the receiver 3 feet in front of the projector, blocking the light path, it changes nothing.
> 
> 
> Now whats interesting is that this is the second kit I have tried it with. Both kits perform the same way. I have a hard time believing that I have 2 defective kits, but I suppose it could happen.
> 
> 
> I do know that the Sony 95 is compatible with the Monster glasses and people are using it the same way I am (I have seen pictures with the IR receiver location).




Are doing it this way?


Connect the emitter and BC010 IR sensor to the TV as shown in Page 3 Connections: 3D Ready TV with IR Emitter. Turn on the TV and enable 3D display. Hold the IR sensor below the TV while viewing the LEDs. While searching for and learning an IR sync signal, the LEDs will display a red moving pattern. The BC100 3D Emitter will stay in IR search mode until a signal is found and learned. If the emitter stays in search mode for longer than 60 seconds, a signal has not been located. Ensure that the TV is in 3D mode. In addition to setting the TV in 3D mode, *you must also have 3D content playing in order to find 3D signal (LED's turn green.)*


When the signal is learned, the LEDs will turn green and indicate the received IR signal quality. The weakest signal is indicated by only one green LED while the strongest, highest quality signal is indicated by five green LEDs. The IR sensor can be placed on the TV stand directly in front of the TV or attached to the TV using double sided tape. Place or attach the IR sensor in the location which yields the best signal quality. The quality indicator remains lit for one minute after signal learning is complete. To turn on the signal quality indicator again, press and hold the joystick down until the first LED turns green and then release the joystick.


----------



## adidino

Where is the firmware for the Monsters/Optima glasses anyway? I couldn't find it..


----------



## LVS

^^^
http://www.monstercable.com/Monster_...hemanuals=5938 


firmware msi file.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21686796
> 
> 
> ^^^
> http://www.monstercable.com/Monster_...hemanuals=5938
> 
> 
> firmware msi file.



ahh.. saw that but it said it was a pdf so I ignored it. Thanks!


----------



## ricwhite

I'm using a new 1000ma charger on my Monster/Optoma glasses, and so far, so good. The 500ma charger didn't seem to do the job. We'll see how it holds up in the long run.


----------



## coolplazma

Is MonsterCable dropping MonsterVision Max 3D from it's line up?


Going to the MonsterCable website, the only way I can find the Max 3D stuff now is to perform a search.
http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938 


The old link ( http://www.monstercable.com/max3d/default.asp ) does not work anymore and the informative black background pages are not to be found.


----------



## coolplazma

Posted this info over in the Sony HW30 thread.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------


I did a little experimenting with creating and testing a direct cable btwn the HW30 (RJ45) and MV3D RF transmitter (VESA).


The HW30 RJ45 port pins 1&2 (reported to be +12VDC) measured only .05VDC. Inconsequential as these pins are not used for the MV RF emitter.


Pin 3 (emitter detect) measured at 3.25VDC, not high enough to drive the MV3D emitter which needs 5VDC, so this is simply bridged to ground (pins 7&8).


Pin 4 (sync sig) measured at 1.15 VDC with the emitter detect, or 0 volts if emitter was not detected.


---


Powered the MV3D RF emitter using the USB port and the Sony glasses USB charger block provided as part of the AES package.


---


With the direct cable connect (eliminating both the Sony emitter and the MV IR capture dongle), the sync tuning was only slightly better (less ghosting) than with the IR capture. There was a definite difference in the duty & delay needed, but the resulting output when each were tuned was very close.


Conclusion:


Based on the minuscule performance improvement when using the direct cable, eliminating the IR component is probably not justifiable unless eeking out the last drop of ghosting weighs heavily, or eliminating the IR blasting and Sony emitter is the ultimate goal. Also, by keeping the Sony IR in the mix, the standard Sony IR glasses (and others) may still be used.


----------



## bd2003

How do you turn these things off? I press the power button when it's on, and it turns off and then right back on again. Both my sets are almost always completely drained when I need them.


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bd2003* /forum/post/21710697
> 
> 
> How do you turn these things off? I press the power button when it's on, and it turns off and then right back on again. Both my sets are almost always completely drained when I need them.



u can't turn them off, they automatically turn off when they stop sensing a 3d signal.


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> u can't turn them off, they automatically turn off when they stop sensing a 3d signal.



Then why is my battery always drained after a week of non-use?


----------



## oleus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bd2003* /forum/post/21710708
> 
> 
> Then why is my battery always drained after a week of non-use?



that shouldn't be happening. i find it odd that the on button doesn't turn them OFF, but they usually turn off after a few minutes of 3d being off.


----------



## LVS

If I remember reading the instruction booklet correctly, it states that you turn them off by holding down the On button for like 5 seconds, but my experience is the same as bd2003, they just reset, however my glasses turn off shortly after I stop 3D playback. Have you updated the firmware?


----------



## coolplazma

Holding the power button for 5 seconds does not turn them off. More like 20 seconds as described under the Factory Reset info below.


Direct from the Max 3D manual:

3.2.2 Auto Power Shutdown

• If your MAX 3D Eyewear unit does not detect a MAX 3D Transmitter, its LED will blink on and off once per second for 5 minutes and then power off automatically.


---


The instructions in the manual for restoring to factory defaults is somewhat mis-ordered. Correcting that here....

To Restore a Pair of Glasses to Factory Defaults

1. Press & hold the power button.

2. Continue holding the power button for around 10 seconds until the LED blinks in a heartbeat indicating pairing mode.

3. Continue holding the power button for around 10 more seconds until the LED starts blinking rapidly.

4. Release the power button within 20 seconds.

NOTE: IF the button is not released within 20 seconds of the start of rapid LED blinking the Eyewear will power off.


The MAX 3D Eyewear unit will restore its factory default settings and firmware. This can take several seconds. After the process is complete, the unit will resume normal operation

After Restoring Defaults

Firmware reverts to its original version – The Eyewear will reinstall new firmware once it syncs with the transmitter.


Eyewear returns to an un-paired state – If the Eyewear was previously paired to a transmitter the pairing will need to be re-established.


---


Regarding upgrading the glasses firmware,


6.2 Eyewear Updates


Firmware for the Eyewear is updated via the transmitter, when the firmware in the transmitter is updated it also contains updated firmware for the Eyewear. When the Eyewear is turned on and syncs with the transmitter it automatically downloads new firmware. During this process the LED will blink rapidly as the firmware is being updated, once the update is complete the Eyewear will be ready for use.


It is recommended that after updating the firmware in the transmitter that the Eyewear is powered on so that the update can take place. This will ensure that the Eyewear is ready to go the next time it is used.


---


Sorry for posting Cut & Paste, seems to be the only way to promote correct info other than suggest RTFM. Still, there are likely questions out there wondering what "firmware" is. Hint, it's not in your pants.


----------



## Robut

Do the Monster transmitter, IR receiver and glasses work with the 24" Playstation 3D display? If anyone has used these together I would like to know it before I buy the Monster kit.


Thanks


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robut* /forum/post/21716009
> 
> 
> Do the Monster transmitter, IR receiver and glasses work with the 24" Playstation 3D display? If anyone has used these together I would like to know it before I buy the Monster kit.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I assume from the lack of response, that no one has used this combination.


----------



## djbluemax1

How long do folks' batteries last between charges? I'm trying to figure out if I need to get a higher powered source to charge the glasses.


I've been plugging them into the USB port on my Onkyo 5008 or Sony NX810, but after watching only one movie and then letting the glasses sit for a couple of weeks, the battery is dead. I'm not sure if they're simply not charging fully due to the source I'm using or if they're not turning off.



Max


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oleus* /forum/post/21710786
> 
> 
> that shouldn't be happening. i find it odd that the on button doesn't turn them OFF, but they usually turn off after a few minutes of 3d being off.



They have a 5 minute software timeout to OFF when the signal is removed.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21720801
> 
> 
> How long do folks' batteries last between charges? I'm trying to figure out if I need to get a higher powered source to charge the glasses.
> 
> 
> I've been plugging them into the USB port on my Onkyo 5008 or Sony NX810, but after watching only one movie and then letting the glasses sit for a couple of weeks, the battery is dead. I'm not sure if they're simply not charging fully due to the source I'm using or if they're not turning off.
> 
> 
> 
> Max



Use the "search this thread" function and type battery.


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21721149
> 
> 
> Use the "search this thread" function and type battery.



Nice succinct reply that is of absolutely no use whatsoever. Have you tried doing what you so glibly recommended? I did search before posting and that search pretty much revealed nothing of use.


There is mention of a potential problem with some glasses never fully charging, it pulls up complaints from some other folks about dying batteries. A few posts musing that the glasses might not be turning off for some reason. Nothing whatsoever about average battery life for the average owner.


So what are folks seeing on average for battery life? How many hours of use do you get on average with a full charge? If you fully charge the glasses and watch one movie, how long have you waited before using the glasses again and still had them last a whole movie without needing to be recharged first?


I've had 2 pairs of these (Monster rebranded) and they both will be dead (won't even turn on) if I charge them overnight, watch 1 movie, then let them sit for 2 weeks before trying to watch another.



Max


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21722023
> 
> 
> Nice succinct reply that is of absolutely no use whatsoever. Have you tried doing what you so glibly recommended? I did search before posting and that search pretty much revealed nothing of use.
> 
> 
> There is mention of a potential problem with some glasses never fully charging, it pulls up complaints from some other folks about dying batteries. A few posts musing that the glasses might not be turning off for some reason. Nothing whatsoever about average battery life for the average owner.
> 
> 
> So what are folks seeing on average for battery life? How many hours of use do you get on average with a full charge? If you fully charge the glasses and watch one movie, how long have you waited before using the glasses again and still had them last a whole movie without needing to be recharged first?
> 
> 
> I've had 2 pairs of these (Monster rebranded) and they both will be dead (won't even turn on) if I charge them overnight, watch 1 movie, then let them sit for 2 weeks before trying to watch another.
> 
> 
> 
> Max




Yes I have on all threads, and I've replied enough on this subject on the last several pages of this thread on this subject. I am not rewriting everything again just for you. Nice succinct lack of appreciation and effort on your part.


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have on all threads, and I've replied enough on this subject on the last several pages of this thread on this subject. I am not rewriting everything again just for you. Nice succinct lack of appreciation and effort on your part.



Then just bite your tongue, don't post, and relax. It's not like there's breaking news in the world of monstervision glasses that his question is getting in the way of.


----------



## coolplazma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21722023
> 
> 
> Nice succinct reply that is of absolutely no use whatsoever. Have you tried doing what you so glibly recommended? I did search before posting and that search pretty much revealed nothing of use.
> 
> 
> There is mention of a potential problem with some glasses never fully charging, it pulls up complaints from some other folks about dying batteries. A few posts musing that the glasses might not be turning off for some reason. Nothing whatsoever about average battery life for the average owner.
> 
> 
> So what are folks seeing on average for battery life? How many hours of use do you get on average with a full charge? If you fully charge the glasses and watch one movie, how long have you waited before using the glasses again and still had them last a whole movie without needing to be recharged first?
> 
> 
> I've had 2 pairs of these (Monster rebranded) and they both will be dead (won't even turn on) if I charge them overnight, watch 1 movie, then let them sit for 2 weeks before trying to watch another.
> 
> 
> 
> Max



Did you observe the LED status at the end of your charging cycle? ...


"The LED will flash in a slow heart beat indicating full charge"


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21723203
> 
> 
> Yes I have on all threads, and I've replied enough on this subject on the last several pages of this thread on this subject. I am not rewriting everything again just for you. Nice succinct lack of appreciation and effort on your part.



I actually read backwards to post #391 before posting the question and the search term "battery" revealed nothing of interest.


In your grumpiness, you probably forgot that the ONLY post where you mention how long a charge lasts does NOT have the word "battery" anywhere in it? Perhaps read your own idiocy before haranguing someone else?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *coolplazma* /forum/post/21724040
> 
> 
> Did you observe the LED status at the end of your charging cycle? ...
> 
> 
> "The LED will flash in a slow heart beat indicating full charge"



Yes, I got the 'slow heart beat', which I assume is the pulsing LED that dims and brightens gradually over a cycle a little faster than 70 beats per minute?


Still doesn't stay charged after letting it sit for a couple of weeks.


I guess it must be REALLY difficult for folks to post one-liners like

"Mine stay charged for weeks and are still usable"

or

"Mine are still usable after sitting for a month"



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21722023
> 
> 
> Nice succinct reply that is of absolutely no use whatsoever. Have you tried doing what you so glibly recommended? I did search before posting and that search pretty much revealed nothing of use.
> 
> 
> There is mention of a potential problem with some glasses never fully charging, it pulls up complaints from some other folks about dying batteries. A few posts musing that the glasses might not be turning off for some reason. Nothing whatsoever about average battery life for the average owner.
> 
> 
> So what are folks seeing on average for battery life? How many hours of use do you get on average with a full charge? If you fully charge the glasses and watch one movie, how long have you waited before using the glasses again and still had them last a whole movie without needing to be recharged first?
> 
> 
> I've had 2 pairs of these (Monster rebranded) and they both will be dead (won't even turn on) if I charge them overnight, watch 1 movie, then let them sit for 2 weeks before trying to watch another.
> 
> 
> 
> Max



I have four pair of these glasses and three hold a charge for over two months even with 10+ hours of use on them. One pair behaves differently. I use two different cell phone chargers on these and one is rated at 700ma and the other 850ma. The higher current charger doesn't charge as well surprisingly. The glasses die more quickly and that one pair that is weaker just doesn't want to charge with the higher current charger. That one pair are the glasses sold by VIP and I am wondering if I have a pair with the wrong resistors installed.


It will still charge with the lower current charger and last 5 plus weeks though. The other 3 pair I just recharged but it had been about 2 months. Charged before Christmas. They were still going strong too. The 700ma charger is the best at charging these yet. Charger is from an old LG cell phone.


Ron


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21724862
> 
> 
> I actually read backwards to post #391 before posting the question and the search term "battery" revealed nothing of interest.
> 
> 
> In your grumpiness, you probably forgot that the ONLY post where you mention how long a charge lasts does NOT have the word "battery" anywhere in it? Perhaps read your own idiocy before haranguing someone else?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I got the 'slow heart beat', which I assume is the pulsing LED that dims and brightens gradually over a cycle a little faster than 70 beats per minute?
> 
> 
> Still doesn't stay charged after letting it sit for a couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> I guess it must be REALLY difficult for folks to post one-liners like
> 
> "Mine stay charged for weeks and are still usable"
> 
> or
> 
> "Mine are still usable after sitting for a month"
> 
> 
> 
> Max




I did the battery search myself before even referring you in that direction and there was enough information in there to help get you started. The bulk of it was in the February threads in this group.


I worked with the manufacturer last summer on this problem and submitted the test and measurement results to them and it was discovered an incorrect charge resistor was installed in a limited group of glasses. Figure it out for yourself if you have one of those.


Since I am an idiot, I will let those most qualified point you in the direction you need to go.


----------



## bd2003

If someone can shed more light on the issue without being snarky, I'm def interested. Might explain what's been happening with my pair.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bd2003* /forum/post/21725546
> 
> 
> If someone can shed more light on the issue without being snarky, I'm def interested. Might explain what's been happening with my pair.



Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21725463
> 
> 
> I have four pair of these glasses and three hold a charge for over two months even with 10+ hours of use on them. One pair behaves differently. I use two different cell phone chargers on these and one is rated at 700ma and the other 850ma. The higher current charger doesn't charge as well surprisingly. The glasses die more quickly and that one pair that is weaker just doesn't want to charge with the higher current charger. That one pair are the glasses sold by VIP and I am wondering if I have a pair with the wrong resistors installed.
> 
> 
> It will still charge with the lower current charger and last 5 plus weeks though. The other 3 pair I just recharged but it had been about 2 months. Charged before Christmas. They were still going strong too. The 700ma charger is the best at charging these yet. Charger is from an old LG cell phone.
> 
> 
> Ron



Thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for.


I've really only read about VIP glasses having the incorrect resistors. Haven't really seen too much about Monster glasses specifically with that problem. It makes me wonder how widespread the problem might have been? Potentially just a small batch that went to VIP, or maybe a larger batch that was distributed to several resellers?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21725524
> 
> 
> I did the battery search myself before even referring you in that direction and there was enough information in there to help get you started. The bulk of it was in the February threads in this group.
> 
> 
> I worked with the manufacturer last summer on this problem and submitted the test and measurement results to them and it was discovered an incorrect charge resistor was installed in a limited group of glasses. Figure it out for yourself if you have one of those.
> 
> 
> Since I am an idiot, I will let those most qualified point you in the direction you need to go.



I wasn't calling you an idiot personally. I was referring to the manner in which you posted. As I specified, searching the term "battery" specifically in this thread returned no mention of what actual owners were seeing as far as battery life goes. There were posts about laptop USB ports potentially not being able to deliver sufficient current, recommendations for other chargers (yours among them) etc. but no specific mention of real world user battery life, and I don't tend to believe manufacturer ratings as they're quite often exaggerated especially when it comes to battery life in particular. That's why I specifically looked for real world user averages, which proved difficult to find, hence, I asked.


After looking specifically through YOUR posts, the one post where you mention your real world charge duration has no mention of the word "battery" in it anywhere, meaning it obviously doesn't show up in a search for posts with that word.



Max


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21725618
> 
> 
> Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661



Thanks. I guess the problem was not restricted to just VIP glasses then.



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21725645
> 
> 
> Thanks. I guess the problem was not restricted to just VIP glasses then.
> 
> 
> 
> Max



What are you using to charge them?


Its strange...the 850ma charger wouldn't work with that one pair I have but charges with the lower current rated charger. Still doesn't hold the charge as long as my other glasses though. That one pair will never get to a pulsing led state and just never charge with the 850ma charger but charges with the 700ma charger and pulses slowly.


I suppose the voltage level is different too. At some point I plan to check the battery voltage on these after a charge. Does anybody know what resistor value and where?


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21725682
> 
> 
> What are you using to charge them?
> 
> 
> Its strange...the 850ma charger wouldn't work with that one pair I have but charges with the lower current rated charger. Still doesn't hold the charge as long as my other glasses though. That one pair will never get to a pulsing led state and just never charge with the 850ma charger but charges with the 700ma charger and pulses slowly.
> 
> 
> I suppose the voltage level is different too. At some point I plan to check the battery voltage on these after a charge. Does anybody know what resistor value and where?



I usually plug the cable into either the front USB port on my Onkyo 5008 (if I have the system on) or to the USB port on the Sony NX810 (which stays on even if the TV is off) since I keep the glasses right there. Either of those gets the glasses from dead to the pulsing LED within a couple of hours.


I'll try my HTC charger (5v, 1A) and see how that works. If not, I may have to contact Monster or Bit Cauldron. Both pairs are Monster rebadged, one was purchased from Vanns, the other from Amazon, approximately 3 weeks apart in the Fall of last year.



Max


----------



## bd2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21725618
> 
> 
> Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661



Any foolproof way to know whether or not you're affected by this?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bd2003* /forum/post/21725808
> 
> 
> Any foolproof way to know whether or not you're affected by this?



Check the voltage of the battery after they are charged I guess. You can access the battery in the right hand side paddle...opposite side from the power switch. A small jewellers screwdriver and one screw will gain you access.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21725620
> 
> 
> Thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for.
> 
> 
> I've really only read about VIP glasses having the incorrect resistors. Haven't really seen too much about Monster glasses specifically with that problem. It makes me wonder how widespread the problem might have been? Potentially just a small batch that went to VIP, or maybe a larger batch that was distributed to several resellers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't calling you an idiot personally. I was referring to the manner in which you posted. As I specified, searching the term "battery" specifically in this thread returned no mention of what actual owners were seeing as far as battery life goes. There were posts about laptop USB ports potentially not being able to deliver sufficient current, recommendations for other chargers (yours among them) etc. but no specific mention of real world user battery life, and I don't tend to believe manufacturer ratings as they're quite often exaggerated especially when it comes to battery life in particular. That's why I specifically looked for real world user averages, which proved difficult to find, hence, I asked.
> 
> 
> After looking specifically through YOUR posts, the one post where you mention your real world charge duration has no mention of the word "battery" in it anywhere, meaning it obviously doesn't show up in a search for posts with that word.
> 
> 
> 
> Max



Unfortunately Max at that time I didn't have the time to answer in depth, so I did a quick search in this group and most of my comments on that subject were listed. I was going to come back later and see if you turned up anything and work from there. Your follow up response caught me wrong at that moment as it had a sarcastic element to it so I ended up giving you a curt response myself.


In any event hopefully we can get past all of that and concentrate on whether the charge issue is source related, battery or defect in the charge controller circuitry in the glasses. 100% full charge should approximately be in the 3.75-3.8 range. If I remember correctly, 0%=2.72VDC but by then the glasses go into shutdown. Most of the stuff is over in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer forums.


----------



## captainmorgan

What is the latest firmware version? What version are most people using?


----------



## zkidz

I grabbed the latest update less than a week ago, and it was v1.05.004 at that time.


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21726348
> 
> 
> Unfortunately Max at that time I didn't have the time to answer in depth, so I did a quick search in this group and most of my comments on that subject were listed. I was going to come back later and see if you turned up anything and work from there. Your follow up response caught me wrong at that moment as it had a sarcastic element to it so I ended up giving you a curt response myself.
> 
> 
> In any event hopefully we can get past all of that and concentrate on whether the charge issue is source related, battery or defect in the charge controller circuitry in the glasses. 100% full charge should approximately be in the 3.75-3.8 range. If I remember correctly, 0%=2.72VDC but by then the glasses go into shutdown. Most of the stuff is over in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer forums.



Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.


It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to

a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)

b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do



Max


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21727322
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.
> 
> 
> It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to
> 
> a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)
> 
> b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do
> 
> 
> 
> Max



Make sure the test leads you are using are the almost needle sharp type, it is a difficult connection to make, if you short that Li-Po battery you might need to have good eye protection. The RC airplane folks know how explosive they can be. The ribbon cable is delicate as well.


A good set of glasses after finishing their charge cycle should measure around 3.78-3.82vdc.


----------



## coolplazma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/21727322
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.
> 
> 
> It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to
> 
> a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)
> 
> b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do
> 
> 
> Max



I have a couple pair of these glasses, 1-MV and 1-Optoma. Both are operating fine, turning off as they should and charge lasting for multiple uses. The first pair of Optoma I got from Amazon were duds which failed to turn on for the second usage cycle after the initial first charge and use.


Glasses can be turned off via either:

1. No RF signal give 5 minutes of LED flashing, then they auto off.

2. Hold the power button down for some 20-30 seconds. Refer to the manual which states this will shutoff the glasses. Confirmed this works.


---

*SgtVideo:*
_"Most of the time you can get by with a 500ma usb source but I was informed by one of the BC engineers if the SOC "state of charge" reaches a certain point the charge controller circuitry could demand up to 750ma. If your souce can't meet that demand then they will remain undercharged."_


There are a lot of weaker USB ports/hubs out there and many that will not provide 750ma. AFAIK the "normal" USB port spec provided a maximum of 500ma per port. However there is also a "charger" specification that allows for up to 1.5A. (I believe you can see this type of power draw on IPads, etc). I dug up the following blurbs about the USB specs...

_Quote:

The USB specification provides a 5 V (volts) supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines.[11] Initially, a device is only allowed to draw 100 mA. It may request more current from the upstream device in units of 2 mA up to a maximum of 500 mA.


Quote:

On-The-Go and Battery Charging Specification both add new powering modes to the USB specification. The latter specification allows USB devices to draw up to 1.5 A from hubs and hosts that follow the Battery Charging Specification._


So, although a "normal" USB port may provide normal power usage, it could be that these glasses charge better with ports that can provide the higher "Battery Charging" power limits.


I have not measured my 7 port USB 2.0 hub output, but the power adapter is rated at 2.6A, which is on the stronger side when comparing to many other hub supplies. I typically charge 2-4 glasses of various brands at the same time without problem. This hub was http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details and now showing a higher price. Many people rated this well with good success connecting a wide variety of power hungry devices. I only use this for charging USB devices and never for data.


----------



## lovingdvd

I originally had two Monster brand glasses. I would charge them fully until the LED pulsated. They would only last about 5 hours or so before giving me the 6 blinking lights. I returned these glasses and got 4 pairs of the Optoma, which as I understand it is identical just the name. With these glasses I can go about 20 hours or so before 6 blinking lights. Seems to me the pair of Monster's I had originally did not hold a charge like they were supposed to.


----------



## captainmorgan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I grabbed the latest update less than a week ago, and it was v1.05.004 at that time.



Is there a way to restore the previous firmware version?


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *captainmorgan* /forum/post/21731411
> 
> 
> Is there a way to restore the previous firmware version?



That was the version Monstervision transmitters shipped with in 2011. Most people downloaded it thinking they were getting an update when in reality you were really only getting the RF glasses Management Utility which allowed tuning adjustments via PC. If they flashed their transmitter with it then they were basically just reflashing. The firmware and Management Utility were packaged in the same download.


The v1.05.010 was written for VIP3D RF glasses and transmitter which are the same but added an easier method of changing Polarity. If you already have a copy of the v1.05.004 update & manager then yes you can flash back unless your transmitter hangs up during the update process and doesn't complete.


This is what can happen:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21633688 

#441


The version .010 firmware and instructions are located here and keep in mind this firmware doesn't come with Optoma and Monstervision's blessing. But it works unless you have a bad transmitter.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776


----------



## zkidz

Actually the MV3D branded set I got had older firmware installed than 1.05.004. I didn't note which version, but the 1.05.004 was an upgrade.


It's really sloppy of all these AV vendors to not keep archives available for downgrade, but that just seems to be the way they do things these days: "Good luck if an update breaks your kit"


----------



## coolplazma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/21732598
> 
> 
> Actually the MV3D branded set I got had older firmware installed than 1.05.004. I didn't note which version, but the 1.05.004 was an upgrade.



^^^ same here and flashing with 1.05.004 greatly improved the default settings to the point where it almost eliminated the need for adjusting them for both Epson and Sony projectors.


----------



## Graham N

Hi,


After a search didn't give me the answers I am looking for I quickly flipped through every page here without success. I have a Sony VW90ES UK model. I would appreciate any info to help me decide if I should purchase some MonsterVision glasses.


I get quite a lot of crosstalk on Sky 3d sources and varying levels from Blu Ray ranging from annoyingly obvious to not annoying but still there. It seems worse at the bottom of the screen. I have just watched some content on my brother in laws new Panasonic 50" tv and I didn't see any crosstalk at all, and I was deliberately looking for it.


I tried xPand x103's after favourable reviews but for me they were worse than the Sonys.


1. Has anyone here used the Monsters with the VW90 if so what is your opinion?


2. Do filters have to be fitted, if so do the glasses come with them or do you have to fit Sonys own?


3. I understand that adjusting the duty cycle will reduce crosstalk but at what expense to brightness. Can I get less crosstalk with better brightness than the Sony glasses? (I don't want to sacrifice brightness just to get less crosstalk, if that's the case I will stick with the Sonys)


4. Will I need any extra adapters to use the Monster glasses and the Sonys together, how does the Monster transmitter connect?


5. I have the original BR100 glasses. We find these quite uncomfortable, especially the weight on your nose. What is the comfort like between the Monsters, BR100's and BR 250's ?


6. Will the Monsters work ok with UK frequencies?



Thanks for any advice


Graham


----------



## zkidz

3. It depends on the exact cause of your ghosting and the quality of the Sony factory glasses. If for some reason the Sony factory glasses are out of phase, definitely. If the Sony glasses have high transient or intrinsic leakage, yes. If the ghosting with the Sony glasses is mostly due to failure to chop a fading tail-end on the signal, and that tail end bleeds into the next frame, then no, you have to sacrifice some brightness.


The other thing to watch out for is anti-ghosting filters in the firmware. On my Samsung set, there is no way to turn them off, so you get anti-ghosts (black shadows where you would normally expect a white ghost) if you use glasses with less leakage and faster transients. This is still better than not reducing the ghosting at all, mind you.


4. As long as the Monsters support that IR protocol, you can run with the IR dongle and it does not need to be mounted directly against the emitter leds, just close by, so it does not get in the way of the IR signal for other glasses. Note only the Monster branded kits come with the IR dongle.


You'll only know if you try, basically.


----------



## coolplazma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Graham N* /forum/post/21740902
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> After a search didn't give me the answers I am looking for I quickly flipped through every page here without success. I have a Sony VW90ES UK model. I would appreciate any info to help me decide if I should purchase some MonsterVision glasses.
> 
> 
> I get quite a lot of crosstalk on Sky 3d sources and varying levels from Blu Ray ranging from annoyingly obvious to not annoying but still there. It seems worse at the bottom of the screen. I have just watched some content on my brother in laws new Panasonic 50" tv and I didn't see any crosstalk at all, and I was deliberately looking for it.
> 
> 
> I tried xPand x103's after favourable reviews but for me they were worse than the Sonys.
> 
> 
> 1. Has anyone here used the Monsters with the VW90 if so what is your opinion?
> 
> 
> 2. Do filters have to be fitted, if so do the glasses come with them or do you have to fit Sonys own?
> 
> 
> 3. I understand that adjusting the duty cycle will reduce crosstalk but at what expense to brightness. Can I get less crosstalk with better brightness than the Sony glasses? (I don't want to sacrifice brightness just to get less crosstalk, if that's the case I will stick with the Sonys)
> 
> 
> 4. Will I need any extra adapters to use the Monster glasses and the Sonys together, how does the Monster transmitter connect?
> 
> 
> 5. I have the original BR100 glasses. We find these quite uncomfortable, especially the weight on your nose. What is the comfort like between the Monsters, BR100's and BR 250's ?
> 
> 
> 6. Will the Monsters work ok with UK frequencies?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice
> 
> 
> Graham



I have the Sony HW30 instead of the VW90, but the Monsters work the same regardless. The 90 is known to ghost more than the newer pj models, so it is not surprising that you are seeing ghosting.


As you know, the MonsterVision glasses (made by Bit Cauldron, are also branded as Optoma and 3D-VIP) have good flexibility in adjustments. However, if the pj is performing poorly there is only so much a set of glasses can do to eliminate artifacts. Likely with your pj you will be closing down the duty cycle to attempt cutting off the image overlap.


The MonsterVision Kit includes one pair of glasses and an IR capture dongle plus the RF emitter. The IR dongle hangs in front of your existing IR emitter and sends that sync signal to the MV RF device. With this setup you can use both your IR and RF glasses at the same time.


All the Bit Cauldron RF re-branded glasses are interchangable, which opens up the options for purchasing additional glasses (ie: Optoma sell for less than MV).


MV is the only vendor that provides the IR capture dongle. Apparently MV does not sell their kit in Europe, so your purchase options may be limited. I suggest calling AVS sales, as some people have reported they can help ship this kit from the US.


As far as these working in the UK, there are many Euro users posting in the various Sony pj threads that are using these glasses. Some of the people create a direct connect cable and eliminate the IR capture altogether. If you go that route, you don't need the MV Kit and can just purchase a package from any vendor that includes just the RF emitter.


Oh, the Bit Cauldron RF glasses do not have any extra filters to add. AFAIK, filters are only needed for using the BR series glasses with the Sony projectors. In fact, if those are the only glasses you have, you may want to try a pair of Sony's newer IR glasses listed with any of the HWAES models, or the Playstation 3 3D IR glasses which also work great.


----------



## Graham N

Thanks for both replies. I can get the MV glasses from Amazon for £98 included taxes and delivery and the Sony BR250 glasses here for £44. You have both given me something to think about and I will do so before deciding what to do.


Thanks again,


Graham


----------



## ZoomBoy

Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.


I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.


I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ZoomBoy* /forum/post/21750656
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.
> 
> 
> I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.
> 
> 
> I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.



It may not be the battery actually. I've had 2 Monsters and 4 Optomas (which are identical to the Monsters just OEMed/branded differently). One of my Optoma pairs did not turn on and their support said it could just be an issue with the circuitry. They sent me an advance replacement within a day and I returned the other one at no charge. Maybe try giving Monster a call, although from what I remember it can be a bit tricky getting to the right department.


----------



## ZoomBoy

I find manufacturers always figure out a way to slip away from refunding/repairing units. I just spent 30 mins on the phone with Monster and was one step away from having my defective pair RMA'd until they noticed that the vendor I purchased the glasses from wasn't an authorized dealer, even though they were purchased via Amazon.com


So obviously they basically told me to hit the road. What does it matter who sells these units, it is Monster's product - does it matter if I bought them from Wal-Mart of Mom & Pop Co? Lame.. so now I have to deal with this Amazon dealer and pray they can fix my issue or I'm out $100+.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ZoomBoy* /forum/post/21750656
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.
> 
> 
> I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.
> 
> 
> I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.



I was able to source this battery last but not this year. Here is the battery # for the RF glasses:


Battery# 402040P 3.7v, Lithium Polymer.


----------



## FreyTheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ZoomBoy* /forum/post/21750656
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.
> 
> 
> I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.
> 
> 
> I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.



This is one reason I actually prefer the replaceable battery style of glasses over rechargeable glasses. If there is a failure with the rechargeable battery, like an open or a short, or if the battery just finally wears out and won't hold a charge anymore, it can be very hard to try to replace the battery -It could be is sealed inside a frame you can't easily take apart, or soldered into the circuit, or is an oddball battery size not easily sourceable. The coin batteries used in the replaceable-type glasses can be had for 30 to 50 cents a piece when bought in lots, are good for 60-80 hours of use, have a storage life of 10+ years, and can be readily replaced if a failure occurs, over and over... and over again...


----------



## jasonmichaelh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I actually read backwards to post #391 before posting the question and the search term "battery" revealed nothing of interest.
> 
> 
> In your grumpiness, you probably forgot that the ONLY post where you mention how long a charge lasts does NOT have the word "battery" anywhere in it? Perhaps read your own idiocy before haranguing someone else?
> 
> 
> Yes, I got the 'slow heart beat', which I assume is the pulsing LED that dims and brightens gradually over a cycle a little faster than 70 beats per minute?
> 
> 
> Still doesn't stay charged after letting it sit for a couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> I guess it must be REALLY difficult for folks to post one-liners like
> 
> "Mine stay charged for weeks and are still usable"
> 
> or
> 
> "Mine are still usable after sitting for a month"
> 
> 
> Max



I fully charged my three pairs of monster glasses, watched two movies over two days, turned my 3d transmitter off (by disabling 3d mode on the tv, i did not manually power down the glasses) and now two weeks later they still power on.


Charger is an HP pm092a#aba. I got it for free with a computer case purchase and never thought I would use it but it seems to work great for these glasses.


----------



## sanderdvd

Hi guys,


I just bought a Sony VW95 and the Optoma RF glasses with the emitter (type-BC100).


How can I connect the emitter to the Sony and where are the arrows buttons for on the BC100 emitter?


EDIT:

Am I correct that I will need this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNWqXq4WDFA cable to be able to use the Optoma emitter on the Sony? (Don t need the Sony glasses to work, only 2 pair of Optoma glasses which I bought with the VW95 instead of the Sony glasses).


Someone know where to get this cable in the Netherlands? Is it a custom made cable or a cable that can be sold in special stores?


EDIT2







:

I only have this http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homestead.com/IMG_5274.JPG thing that came with the (secondhand) Optoma glasses I bought and not this http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homestead.com/IMG_5278.JPG one. Is the BC-100 (first pic) enough to make it work or will I also need the other part (pic 2)?


Thanks!


----------



## zkidz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonmichaelh* /forum/post/21770352
> 
> 
> I fully charged my three pairs of monster glasses, watched two movies over two days, turned my 3d transmitter off (by disabling 3d mode on the tv, i did not manually power down the glasses) and now two weeks later they still power on.



FWIW, I have noticed that certain video sources are recognized as a 3D sync signal by the BC-10 IR receiver. In my case most anything played off Comcast's on-demand service will cause the BC-100 to sync up to what it says is a 240Hz IR signal.


If you are watching 3D material and then stop, and the BC-100 still thinks it is getting sync because it is mistaking the TV raster for a sync signal, the glasses will remain on until the TV actually gets turned off -- and being RF this includes when you tuck them away in a box.


So check for cylon mode after you disable 3D and settle in on other material.


----------



## zkidz

sanderdvd: the connector on the Sony is nonstandard. The BC-10 IR reciever only comes with the Monster 3d Max set, not with the Optoma branded set, and I have never seen them made available separately. You'll need to make or acquire the custom cable. It is not known whether the Optima BC-100 will take the Monster firmware, nor whether the Optoma firmware will use the BC-10.


----------



## Joseph MAK

Just unboxed MV3D. But failed to set it up with my Sony HW30.


I was using the IR/RF transmitter, got 5 LEDs of signal strength. Sony glasses worked, but the MV glasses didn't open up. They were very dark.


Any suggestions for trouble shooting?

____________________________________________________________ _______________________

Problem solved: The cycle time was defaulted to 10%. Changed it to 80% solved the problem.


----------



## Browninggold

When I received my glasses there was a update. Did you update the glasses?


----------



## Joseph MAK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Browninggold* /forum/post/21789923
> 
> 
> When I received my glasses there was a update. Did you update the glasses?



Thanks Browningold.


I found the cause and edited my post.


The firmware came with the glasses was ****004. The firmware utility uploaded firmware ****007 to the transmitter. For some reasons, the firmware utility still reported the firmware was ****004 even after the upgrade.


----------



## sanderdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/21789531
> 
> 
> It is not known whether the Optima BC-100 will take the Monster firmware, nor whether the Optoma firmware will use the BC-10.



I updated the firmware of my Optoma BC-100 emitter(same as MV3D emitter). Everything in the update goes as described in the MV3D firmware upgrade manual and firmware 1.05.010 is loaded to my BC-100 emitter. However, it still shows BC100E_v1.05.004 reported by the Monster Vision utility........ So 2 posibilities: or the monster vision software has a bug and is not reporting the correct information and new firmware IS actually on the emitter. Or the software update seems to go 100% ok but the new firmware is actually NOT installed.


----------



## sanderdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/21789531
> 
> 
> sanderdvd: the connector on the Sony is nonstandard. The BC-10 IR reciever only comes with the Monster 3d Max set, not with the Optoma branded set, and I have never seen them made available separately. You'll need to make or acquire the custom cable



I m still trying to find out if I will actually need this custom made cable (which I cannot make myself because I m a noob







):


Check out these threads:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21787876 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21789763


----------



## zkidz

sanderdvd: The short answer is: yes.


----------



## sanderdvd

Yes for the cutom cable question or firmware question?


----------



## zkidz

@sanderdvd: You need a custom cable.


(Or you need to buy the MV3D set, which would give you an additional pair of glasses along with a new BC-10 and BC-100 to use instead of the Optima BC-100)


----------



## blipszyc

What's a good price for these with the emitter? I found a reputable place that has them for around $82. PM me.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc* /forum/post/21798816
> 
> 
> What's a good price for these with the emitter? I found a reputable place that has them for around $82. PM me.



It's cheaper in Amazon. $79

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...2185600&sr=8-1


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21798939
> 
> 
> It's cheaper in Amazon. $79
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...2185600&sr=8-1



Is this the standard price or on sale?


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc* /forum/post/21800733
> 
> 
> Is this the standard price or on sale?



I assume it's on sale but it's been that price a a couple of weeks now. I bought mine for $89 over a month a go from Amazon so price has dropped since.


----------



## misterkit

I finally was able to get my emitter and glasses working. Turns out I was trying to get the glasses to sync up while I had the can/pot lights in my room on. Once I turned them off the emitter was able to pick up the signal. That gives me a full green set of led's. If I turn the lights back on, the signal drops down to 1 led.


----------



## sanderdvd

Still no answer so I ll try it again










I m from Europe (Netherlands) and bought the 2 Optoma RF glasses for my Sony VW95 (because they suppose to give much better results, more brighness and less ghosting, then the original Sony glasses). I also have the Optoma BC-100 emitter and a friend of mine is making a custom cable atm with which I will be able to connect the BC-100 emitter to the Sony VW95 and get the Optoma glasses work.


But I need to know some things about the Optoma emitter.


First of all the firmware. Since I ve heard that the Optoma BC-100 is the exact same emitter as the MV3D emitter I downloaded the MonsterVision utility for my PC. I tried to update the firmware of the BC-100. Everything goes as described in the update manual of MonsterVision and it looks like firmware version 1.05.010 is loaded to the emitter. But after reconnecting the BC-100 emitter to my and load the MonsterVision utility again the software still says 1.05.004...... So either firmware 1.05.010 is actually NOT applied to the emitter (and the Optoma BC-100 is not compatible with the MV3D software) OR the Monster Vision software reports incorrect information.


Can anyone tell me anything about this?


----------



## sanderdvd

I was finally able to make the custom cable needed for the MV3D emitter myself (with some help of John). My emitter is now connected to the Sony and I m ready to use my MV3D (Optoma RF) glasses.

*1.*

How do I pair the glasses with the emitter?

*2.*

I can set the polarity to TWO red leds or THREE red leds. What is the recommended setting of polarity for the VW95?

*3.*

I can set the DELAY TUNING and LENS DUTY CYCLE TUNING with the arrows in the submenu of the emitter. What are the best settings for the VW95/what is a good starting-point?


thanks!


----------



## mflanagan

How do you calibrate these with PowerDVD 11? I have updated the firmware with the MonsterVision utility and have tried to figure out how to calibrate with it on an HTPC.


Is there a tutorial for this?


Thanks

Flan


----------



## ciotime

Hi guys need some help. I got myself the MV kit to use for my VW95...my question is the supplied cables to power the MV is only USB while the socket for the VW95 is LAN...what do I do?


----------



## zkidz

Install a USB hub, or one of those AC cell phone charger warts.


----------



## ciotime

Thanks for the help but what does an AC cell phone charger wart mean? Also where do I plug in the usb hub? On the VW95? Where?


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ciotime* /forum/post/21824181
> 
> 
> Hi guys need some help. I got myself the MV kit to use for my VW95...my question is the supplied cables to power the MV is only USB while the socket for the VW95 is LAN...what do I do?




The RJ-45 on the Sony I believe is for the Sony infared emitter for 3d. You need the emitter firing at the MV IR receiver, and the MV only power option is via USB cable. So if any of your devices nearby have a USB port they will most likely power the MV RF transmitter. If there aren't any USB ports nearby but have AC outlet use this or something similar to power the transmitter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details


----------



## ciotime

Thanks for the advice...I did try to plug it into a usb port in my panny blu ray player but it didnt seem to power it though.


----------



## LVS

It powered it with my Panny Blu Ray player, but the player has to be on.


----------



## rwestley

If any of you are looking for extra pairs of the MV glasses Amazon has they at the lowest price I have ever seen today. I may even pick up a few more pairs for myself. I still think they are the best and most comfortable glasses out there.


If you do get them be sure to update the firmware immediately.

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...2879665&sr=1-1


----------



## Vampyro

I've never updated firmware. Is it really necessary?


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21800780
> 
> 
> I assume it's on sale but it's been that price a a couple of weeks now. I bought mine for $89 over a month a go from Amazon so price has dropped since.



The prices have been dropping steadily for several months. I think it is due to the fact that originally, Monster Cables Co. was about the only seller of the Bit Cauldron RF glasses. Then VIP started selling them and then Optima. As with all things in the marketplace, competition brings down prices.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/21836368
> 
> 
> I've never updated firmware. Is it really necessary?



I suggest that everyone update the firmware. The new firmware fixed some issues and has made it easier to reverse polarity.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/21836390
> 
> 
> The prices have been dropping steadily for several months. I think it is due to the fact that originally, Monster Cables Co. was about the only seller of the Bit Cauldron RF glasses. Then VIP started selling them and then Optima. As with all things in the marketplace, competition brings down prices.



The reason why the prices have dropped is that Monster is getting out of the 3D glasses business. These are close out prices. Bid Cauldron made the glasses for Monster, Optoma, and others. The only ones that have gone down in price have been the Monsters. I would suggest getting the while you still can.


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21624618
> 
> 
> It does seem that Monster is getting out of the 3d Glasses business. They did not display them at CEDIA or at CES. When I asked why the rep told me that there were too many issues with different 3d formats. He also told me that they are still selling those in stocks.
> 
> It also seems that they are reducing the price to sell them out. They are a great buy for the price they are selling at on Amazon at this time.



I just checked Optima prices on Amazon and found that they and Monster are selling for about $75. That's the same price I paid for my Optima rebranded Bit Cauldron glasses in January.


You'll note that Monster cables and other products are hyped as being superior to other cables. While they are well made, they aren't THAT much better as to justify their super high prices. Obviously, that is part of their business model...lots of hype and very high profit margins and I don't begrudge them for it...business is business. Since competition from VIP and Optima has put price pressure on Monster and they couldn't make the claim that their rebranded version was superior like they do with cable products...they probably just decided that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3D business.


----------



## sanderdvd

I just got a tip from JohnHWman for tuning the emitter/glasses:

_First reduce the lens duty cycle to minimum and then adjust delay until no ghosting is visible. Then come back to rize the duty cycle parameter until ghosting start to reappear. Let the adjustments as is since the dongle will store them automatically._


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wardhealer* /forum/post/21836517
> 
> 
> I just checked Optima prices on Amazon and found that they and Monster are selling for about $75. That's the same price I paid for my Optima rebranded Bit Cauldron glasses in January.
> 
> 
> You'll note that Monster cables and other products are hyped as being superior to other cables. While they are well made, they aren't THAT much better as to justify their super high prices. Obviously, that is part of their business model...lots of hype and very high profit margins and I don't begrudge them for it...business is business. Since competition from VIP and Optima has put price pressure on Monster and they couldn't make the claim that their rebranded version was superior like they do with cable products...they probably just decided that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3D business.



The difference is that the Monster glasses come with the transmitter and rf emitter connection. That makes them a much better buy. I did speak to Monster at the CES show and you are correct that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3d business.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sanderdvd* /forum/post/21837852
> 
> 
> I just got a tip from JohnHWman for tuning the emitter/glasses:
> 
> _First reduce the lens duty cycle to minimum and then adjust delay until no ghosting is visible. Then come back to rize the duty cycle parameter until ghosting start to reappear. Let the adjustments as is since the dongle will store them automatically._



Minimum would completely shut the lenses off. Try 50% duty cycle first. That worked for me.


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21837979
> 
> 
> The difference is that the Monster glasses come with the transmitter and rf emitter connection. That makes them a much better buy. I did speak to Monster at the CES show and you are correct that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3d business.



Yes, if you need the IR Receiver, which you do with the Sony HW30AES Projector, the MV3D kit is the only way to get that.


----------



## hazz

How long does it take for thes glasses to ship i just ordered a pair from Amazon ? (TheFactoryDepot)


----------



## Greg1981




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How long does it take for thes glasses to ship i just ordered a pair from Amazon ? (TheFactoryDepot)



I ordered from them as well, arrived within four days of ordering. I think they're located in Ontario, Canada. As I'm in the northeast, your mileage may vary.


----------



## hazz

Thanks i live in new mexico.


----------



## mflanagan

I'm having a weird Issue with my monster glasses. If I pause a 3D movie and tweek my glasses using the joystick I can pretty much erase ghosting and get a pretty clear picture....everything looks good except the background, its all blurry like 2 images on top of one another offset slightly. When I adjust to get the background crisp, the foreground objects blur.


Is there a way to adjust layers in the image? Such as adjusting Foreground and background separately?


THX!


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/21842364
> 
> 
> I'm having a weird Issue with my monster glasses. If I pause a 3D movie and tweek my glasses using the joystick I can pretty much erase ghosting and get a pretty clear picture....everything looks good except the background, its all blurry like 2 images on top of one another offset slightly. When I adjust to get the background crisp, the foreground objects blur.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to adjust layers in the image? Such as adjusting Foreground and background separately?
> 
> 
> THX!



Sometimes the producer of the content camera setup is the cause, your own camera has depth of field that includes out of focus objects; same thing can happen in the 3D process. Try to find the best compromise setting also make sure any video enhancement settings are turned OFF, like noise reduction for instance; see which setting exacerbates the problem.


----------



## mflanagan

Well I would agree with that except I can dial the Background in very crisp (at the expense of the foreground). If it was depth of field, I wouldn't be able to make it sharp no matter what I did. Its like the 3D is in layers and I cant adjust the layers independently. Ill try it with a different movie. Right now Im using the Imax Grand Canyon movie.


Does anyone know of any calibration screens to dial these things in or are you guys just watching a movie and adjusting the joystick on the fly?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/21842723
> 
> 
> Well I would agree with that except I can dial the Background in very crisp (at the expense of the foreground). If it was depth of field, I wouldn't be able to make it sharp no matter what I did. Its like the 3D is in layers and I cant adjust the layers independently. Ill try it with a different movie. Right now Im using the Imax Grand Canyon movie.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of any calibration screens to dial these things in or are you guys just watching a movie and adjusting the joystick on the fly?



Ghosting can be caused by many things and you can only go so far to reduce it with the adjustments.


----------



## zeedub

Can anyone tell me how to get my emitter out of firmware update mode. I tried to update and get failed every time. Stuck with one red light in the middle. It turns orange when trying to upgrade but never completes. I'm stuck in this mode.


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21845129
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to get my emitter out of firmware update mode. I tried to update and get failed every time. Stuck with one red light in the middle. It turns orange when trying to upgrade but never completes. I'm stuck in this mode.



I had a similar problem when I had the transmitter plugged into a usb port of my computer that was usb 3.0. I was about to send it back to The Factory Depot, had an RMA ready. I just tried another usb 2.0 It just started to work immediately as expected. Hope this works for you.


----------



## olghina

The reason why the prices have dropped is that Monster is getting out of the 3D glasses business. These are close out prices.


----------



## sanderdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/21838136
> 
> 
> Minimum would completely shut the lenses off. Try 50% duty cycle first. That worked for me.



Just for my clarification:

*1.*

With the DEFAULT emitter settings, I FIRST press and hold the joystick (menu 2 of course) to the left until the orange leds are approx in the middle.

*2.*

After this I reduce the deplay to MINIMUM by pressing and holding DOWN the joystick until I have 0 (red) leds.

*3.*

From that point I raise the joystick UPWARDS until I see the least ghosting.

*4.*

After this I raise the brighness (joystick to the RIGHT) until ghosting start to re-appear and when this happens I put it a little back to the LEFT until I have no ghosting again.



Is this the correct procedure?


----------



## zeedub




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robut* /forum/post/21845741
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem when I had the transmitter plugged into a usb port of my computer that was usb 3.0. I was about to send it back to The Factory Depot, had an RMA ready. I just tried another usb 2.0 It just started to work immediately as expected. Hope this works for you.



Looks like it was a OS problem with the PC or the usb. I took the emitter to work today and tried the update on a PC with XP and the upgrade had no errors. At Home I was trying it on a computer running Vista. Hope this helps anyone else who has this issue.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21846723
> 
> 
> Looks like it was a OS problem with the PC or the usb. I took the emitter to work today and tried the update on a PC with XP and the upgrade had no errors. At Home I was trying it on a computer running Vista. Hope this helps anyone else who has this issue.



Don't use the Monster update. There were some issues involved with freezing during the process. Use the Curt Palm VIP update. It is the latest version from Bit Caldron and it works fine with the Monster glasses. See link below. This version of the firmware is also the latest. If you are using Vista you may have to right click on admin. install

because of security.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...6ee6e8c4cbc57d


----------



## zeedub

thanks, just made the VIP update to the device with no error.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21847173
> 
> 
> thanks, just made the VIP update to the device with no error.



Glad that worked. It has been reported by a few people that the Monster firmware is not the latest and that the VIP update fixed the problem. It is also much easier to set polarity with the VIP update.


----------



## zeedub

If I make manual adjustments with the joystick and then at some point hook the emitter back up to computer will the vip utility show the values I modified? I dont want them to reset when i load the app up and I want to capture the current values so I have a reference to go back to in case I want to play around with it more. One other question, is there a mac version of that app?


----------



## zkidz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21846751
> 
> 
> Don't use the Monster update. There were some issues involved with freezing during the process. Use the Curt Palm VIP update. It is the latest version from Bit Caldron and it works fine with the Monster glasses. See link below. This version of the firmware is also the latest. If you are using Vista you may have to right click on admin. install
> 
> because of security.
> 
> http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...6ee6e8c4cbc57d




So has this version been verified to work with not just the Monster emitter and Glasses but also with the BC-10 IR receiver?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/21850420
> 
> 
> So has this version been verified to work with not just the Monster emitter and Glasses but also with the BC-10 IR receiver?



This firmware works with any Bit Caldron made glasses such as Monster, Optoma, Bit Caldron, VP and probably others. All the IR receivers are the same. I have used the firmware with the BC-10 and it works, If you look on the Curt Palme link you will see that this update makes it easer to set polarity. It also fixes an issue that some people have with the update freezing.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/21842723
> 
> 
> Well I would agree with that except I can dial the Background in very crisp (at the expense of the foreground). If it was depth of field, I wouldn't be able to make it sharp no matter what I did. Its like the 3D is in layers and I cant adjust the layers independently. Ill try it with a different movie. Right now Im using the Imax Grand Canyon movie.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of any calibration screens to dial these things in or are you guys just watching a movie and adjusting the joystick on the fly?



I would say your thinking of depth of field in 2 dimensional form, in 3D then your analogy of layers would probably be more accurate. Even that doesn't take into account of digital processing that will vary among content. If there is a standard at this point a lot of liberties have been taken with it.


As for dialing in a permanent setting, well it may work for a lot of 3D content but not all because of the aforementioned.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21850134
> 
> 
> If I make manual adjustments with the joystick and then at some point hook the emitter back up to computer will the vip utility show the values I modified? I dont want them to reset when i load the app up and I want to capture the current values so I have a reference to go back to in case I want to play around with it more. One other question, is there a mac version of that app?



No Mac version of the 3DVIP update was made.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mflanagan* /forum/post/21842723
> 
> 
> Well I would agree with that except I can dial the Background in very crisp (at the expense of the foreground). If it was depth of field, I wouldn't be able to make it sharp no matter what I did. Its like the 3D is in layers and I cant adjust the layers independently. Ill try it with a different movie. Right now Im using the Imax Grand Canyon movie.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of any calibration screens to dial these things in or are you guys just watching a movie and adjusting the joystick on the fly?



That IMAX film is a tough one. I had a hard time getting 3D focus with my LCOS projector but then when I got a DLP projector it was perfect. I basically figured the LCOS panels couldn't refresh quick enough. Some scenes looked great but others looked way off with much ghosting and while paused on the tough scenes I couldn't adjust out the ghosting so it was fuzzy. Then I got the Acer and was blown away by the 3D clarity. That same IMAX film had no ghosting and it was sharp throughout the film.


----------



## sanderdvd

I m still trying to find out what the best settings are to pick for my MV3D/Sony VW95 combo.

The LENS DUTY CYCLE can be set from 10% - 120%. I know this is the amount of time the lenses remain open. Of course a lower value decreases ghosting and has less brightness and a higher value causes more ghosting and more brightness.


Next is the DELAY that can be adjusted. This can be set from 20 - 45000.


What is the way to config the DELAY+LENS DUTY CYCLE to accomplish to best result? (for your info, I m sensitive to ghosting so I prefer the least ghosting).


Changing the delay is the thing I don t understand. When beginning from 20 and moving the delay upwards it looks like 'the same result is repeating itself for a few times' untill 45000 (max) is reached. I hope you guys understand what I mean here. So what is the best to choose here?


Thxz!


----------



## zeedub

Yea I see the repeat as well as I move up and down the scale. I was wondering the same thing. I have landed at just over 2 red LEDs and I have the orange LEDs fully open.


----------



## Greg1981




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sanderdvd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the way to config the DELAY+LENS DUTY CYCLE to accomplish to best result? (for your info, I m sensitive to ghosting so I prefer the least ghosting).
> 
> 
> Changing the delay is the thing I don t understand. When beginning from 20 and moving the delay upwards it looks like 'the same result is repeating itself for a few times' untill 45000 (max) is reached. I hope you guys understand what I mean here. So what is the best to choose here?
> 
> 
> Thxz!



I can't speak with authority (I've only owned them for 2 weeks), but what your seeing is changes in polarity (as you adjust from one lens to the other) and an increase/decrease of the 3D effect. Find a 3D scene where you know something should be coming out of the screen or at least more pronounced in the foreground. Adjust the red lights until you get maximum 3D effect. Then go back to a menu screen and adjust the orange lights until you get the image bright enough without seeing any ghosting. You may have to do this process one more time after double checking the previous image. If it looks blurry, then you can adjust the red lights until the image appears sharper, at the expense of a lesser 3D effect.


Of course, if any of the experts wish to chime in I have no problem being corrected as I'm interested myself.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greg1981* /forum/post/21851144
> 
> 
> I can't speak with authority (I've only owned them for 2 weeks), but what your seeing is changes in polarity (as you adjust from one lens to the other) and an increase/decrease of the 3D effect. Find a 3D scene where you know something should be coming out of the screen or at least more pronounced in the foreground. Adjust the red lights until you get maximum 3D effect. Then go back to a menu screen and adjust the orange lights until you get the image bright enough without seeing any ghosting. You may have to do this process one more time after double checking the previous image. If it looks blurry, then you can adjust the red lights until the image appears sharper, at the expense of a lesser 3D effect.
> 
> 
> Of course, if any of the experts wish to chime in I have no problem being corrected as I'm interested myself.



Another way to check polarity is to turn the glasses upside down. If the 3D effect is better the polarity is reversed. Adjust polarity for most depth on 3D with the glasses on correctly. Use the Curt Palme VIP firmware which makes polarity adjustment much easier.


----------



## zkidz

You'll notice that when you click the button to swap the eyes, all it does is change the phase-delay. The reason why it repeats several times over the valid range of values is that the phase is in microseconds, so if you are using a set that does older 30FPS/eye or even lower, then you have to have more microseconds in the range to do a full 360 degree phase change.


----------



## zeedub

I am trying to swap the polarity on the emitter with the VIP firmware but after I swap it with the controller it is not storing it but swapping back. Anyone else have this issue? Any way to lock it in?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21852869
> 
> 
> I am trying to swap the polarity on the emitter with the VIP firmware but after I swap it with the controller it is not storing it but swapping back. Anyone else have this issue? Any way to lock it in?



It should stay once you lock it in. There are instructions on the Curt Palme Website on using storing the firmware. These are the new instructions.



SET POLARITY:

Push joystick UP momentarily to clear LEDs. Now hold UP until 4 LEDs are lit and release. This is Polarity Mode, pushing Joystick Left/Right momentary while in this mode will produce the following:


2 LEDs= standard polarity

3 LEDs= Reverse Polarity.


After 10 seconds non-use the mode is saved and returned to normal operation.


It should stay after 10 seconds.


----------



## Ronomy

I think they are saying its not saving the mode you change it too. Once you change it it should save it in that mode you changed it too.


----------



## zeedub

Correct. I am doing it that way but it is not saving my selection.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21853280
> 
> 
> Correct. I am doing it that way but it is not saving my selection.



Seems very strange. Try to push the joystick to center to see if that works. You might want to try to update the firmware again. Something could have gone wrong during the update. I have updated several emitters with the update with no problem.


----------



## rwestley

Last night I had a chance to compare the MV glasses with the Xpand 104's. The picture quality is very close between the two. If I had to pick one I would choose the MV's. The price at this time is lower and they are more comfortable.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21853280
> 
> 
> Correct. I am doing it that way but it is not saving my selection.



My timeout save function time is in error, it should be two minutes of non-use and then the settings are saved. Page 8 of the BC5100 users guide. The timeout period applies both to performance tuning and set polarity.


Sorry about that and I will make the correction on CurtPalme as well.


----------



## zeedub

Do you guys leave the emitter plugged in all the time? I was considering only plugging in when using it so it's not always flashing. Does it maintain it's settings when there is no power to it for a prolonged period of time?


----------



## wardhealer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21856463
> 
> 
> Do you guys leave the emitter plugged in all the time? I was considering only plugging in when using it so it's not always flashing. Does it maintain it's settings when there is no power to it for a prolonged period of time?



I place my emitter out of sight and always plugged in. Since it's RF, line of sight isn't a factor. As for the settings...they were dead on right out of the box and have stayed that way, so I've never made adjustments.


----------



## bcterp

I just picked up a pair of the Monstervision 3d glasses for my Mitsubishi DLP. They are pretty comfortable and much lighter on my nose than Xpand's X103. Unfortunately these glasses have the lense polarity rotated in such a way that it causes static polarization rainbows on the plastic screens of most DLP's. This is the same problem that most DLP link glasses have but not IR glasses. Unfortunately I'll have to return them and try Xpand's youniversals, I assume they won't have this problem as their X103s do not.


----------



## belkins

Is there a way to return the optoma rf emitter software to a factory firmware version? I used the monstervision utility to flash it to v1.05.004 and it went all ok, but I cannot get 3D image to show up in glasses... all lights are green on the emitter but no 3D image... when I use VIP 3d utility to flash it to v1.05.010 its all OK, but I would want to return to the Optoma version of FW. Or maybe there is a way to get 3D on v1.05.004 with monstervision utility.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *belkins* /forum/post/21874386
> 
> 
> Is there a way to return the optoma rf emitter software to a factory firmware version? I used the monstervision utility to flash it to v1.05.004 and it went all ok, but I cannot get 3D image to show up in glasses... all lights are green on the emitter but no 3D image... when I use VIP 3d utility to flash it to v1.05.010 its all OK, but I would want to return to the Optoma version of FW. Or maybe there is a way to get 3D on v1.05.004 with monstervision utility.



Why would you want to return to the Optoma original firmware. The VIP is newer than the Monster FW. All firmwares were designed by Bit Caldron the manufacturer of the glasses. The VIP 1.05.010 is the easiest to tune and adjust polarity. I suggest that you stay with the VIP firmware.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *belkins* /forum/post/21874386
> 
> 
> Is there a way to return the optoma rf emitter software to a factory firmware version? I used the monstervision utility to flash it to v1.05.004 and it went all ok, but I cannot get 3D image to show up in glasses... all lights are green on the emitter but no 3D image... when I use VIP 3d utility to flash it to v1.05.010 its all OK, but I would want to return to the Optoma version of FW. Or maybe there is a way to get 3D on v1.05.004 with monstervision utility.



You have more going on than just a firmware problem. We are not sure what you mean by "no 3D image". Do you mean there is no 3D image on the video display or the glasses are not shuttering?


When in "tuning mode" are you seeing the Red and Amber LEDs change when making the adjustments during the tuning of the Delay and Duty cycle? Have you even used the "tuning modes"?


----------



## belkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/21874630
> 
> 
> You have more going on than just a firmware problem. We are not sure what you mean by "no 3D image". Do you mean there is no 3D image on the video display or the glasses are not shuttering?
> 
> 
> When in "tuning mode" are you seeing the Red and Amber LEDs change when making the adjustments during the tuning of the Delay and Duty cycle? Have you even used the "tuning modes"?




I get 5 green lights when I play 3D content but the glasses are not shuttering... That happens when I flash with monstervision utility to v1.05.004... I see the glasses are receiving the FW when I first turn them on after flashing the RF emitter, but they are not shuttering... I am not doing any tuning work and when I put 1.04.010 with VIP utility its all good... without any tuning...Whats bothering me is why I am not getting 3D picture with 1.05.004 using montervision utility when Optoma and Monster and VIP are all the same glasses


----------



## belkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21874538
> 
> 
> Why would you want to return to the Optoma original firmware. The VIP is newer than the Monster FW. All firmwares were designed by Bit Caldron the manufacturer of the glasses. The VIP 1.05.010 is the easiest to tune and adjust polarity. I suggest that you stay with the VIP firmware.



I am asking for warranty purposes, if I ever have to return the emitter or glasses with it...


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *belkins* /forum/post/21874997
> 
> 
> I am asking for warranty purposes, if I ever have to return the emitter or glasses with it...



It should not be a problem using the VIP firmware. You could flash it back to the Monster or Optoma firmware if you wanted to. I don't think they would ever check the firmware if you had a defective pair of glasses. If you own more than one pair of MV glasses you probably have several emitters. Just flash one emitter with the latest firmware if you like. The emitter changes the firmware on the glasses when you sync up. I really suggest that you use the latest firmware since fixes have been made and it is much easier to adjust polarity with the new firmware.


----------



## trans_lux

I have a DPI dVision 30 1080P-XC and am using a 3DFury/HDfury4 with a Panasonic DMP-BDT220 and of course the MAX3D emitter and glasses running the latest Monster firmware.


Everything is currently connected over relatively short HDMI cables with no amplifiers, scalers or switching in between.


I'm able to get pretty amazing 3D in terms of resolution, depth of field etc. but the flicker on high contrast areas make it unwatchable. I have tried multiple different resolutions with 720p60 & 1080p60 having the least amount of flicker.


The projector has rated bandwidth of up-to 225 MHz on HDMI but 720p 96 is worse and 720p 120 shows each field one at a time very slowly.


I have also adjusted light output both from the lamps as well as settings but even at brightness levels you could only view on the other side of the moon the flickering is still very visible.


I think I have the delay and duty cycle pretty dialed in but maybe I'm missing something.


Lastly I originally tried an Expand IR setup and was not able to get 3D at all.


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## zolasson

BAFFLED

On my 3rd pair Optoma RF 3d glasses purchased from Amazon... Have been unable to

power them on after charging using belkin 1 Mv plugin charger... LED light slow

heart beat pulse indicating glasses charged.. Remove from charger , press power button 1 sec.

nothing. Press & hold 5 sec. 10 sec. 20 sec. but glasses will not power on.. Using monster vision

emitter w/ latest firmware.... Any suggestions appreciated..


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zolasson* /forum/post/21879992
> 
> 
> BAFFLED
> 
> On my 3rd pair Optoma RF 3d glasses purchased from Amazon... Have been unable to
> 
> power them on after charging using belkin 1 Mv plugin charger... LED light slow
> 
> heart beat pulse indicating glasses charged.. Remove from charger , press power button 1 sec.
> 
> nothing. Press & hold 5 sec. 10 sec. 20 sec. but glasses will not power on.. Using monster vision
> 
> emitter w/ latest firmware.... Any suggestions appreciated..



Some chargers do not put out enough to charge these glasses. If you have an I-pad or I-phone charger try it to see if it works. If that does not work something could be wrong with the glasses. The i-pad and i-phone chargers put out more than some others. You should see a red charging light when you plug them in. I had this happen once and a higher output charger worked.


----------



## trans_lux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zolasson* /forum/post/21879992
> 
> 
> BAFFLED
> 
> On my 3rd pair Optoma RF 3d glasses purchased from Amazon... Have been unable to
> 
> power them on after charging using belkin 1 Mv plugin charger... LED light slow
> 
> heart beat pulse indicating glasses charged.. Remove from charger , press power button 1 sec.
> 
> nothing. Press & hold 5 sec. 10 sec. 20 sec. but glasses will not power on.. Using monster vision
> 
> emitter w/ latest firmware.... Any suggestions appreciated..



I know on the Monster's engaging the power button is tricky. You have to hit the switch under the flexible plastic "button" just right to get them to power up.

Also not sure but does the emitter have to be active for the glasses to power on?


----------



## hazz

I think so when i first got my glasses i charged them and they would not come on until i paired the with the emitter


----------



## zolasson

Read all post regarding low charger output (550 Ma) low. Using belkin charger 1000ma. Unable 2 pair w/ emitter since glasses will not power up.. thanks guys 4 such a rapid response


----------



## trans_lux

So everything was working great I even was making progress on reducing flicker.

Then I decided to update to the Curt Palme listed firmware for the emitter to make polarity switching easier. Now the emitters will not sync with the 3Dfury.

I reverted firmware back to the Monster still no luck, took a new one and fresh cable out of the box and still no luck.

The only thing I can think of is that I did something to the 3DFury when I did the update as the emitter was connected to sync port. I can't imagine it back feed something but hey anything is possible.

Now all the emitters do is have the red LED's scanning back and forth.

No HUGO for the family on Easter









Any ideas?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trans_lux* /forum/post/21881787
> 
> 
> So everything was working great I even was making progress on reducing flicker.
> 
> Then I decided to update to the Curt Palme listed firmware for the emitter to make polarity switching easier. Now the emitters will not sync with the 3Dfury.
> 
> I reverted firmware back to the Monster still no luck, took a new one and fresh cable out of the box and still no luck.
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that I did something to the 3DFury when I did the update as the emitter was connected to sync port. I can't imagine it back feed something but hey anything is possible.
> 
> Now all the emitters do is have the red LED's scanning back and forth.
> 
> No HUGO for the family on Easter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



If the lights are flashing the emitters are probably working. What color are they flashing. I don't think updating should cause the problem you are having. It sounds like some kind of sync issue. The glasses will take about 30 seconds to sync with any new firmware update. You will see them flash and they they should work. The new firmware from the emitter must also install the firmware to the glasses.


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trans_lux* /forum/post/21881787
> 
> 
> So everything was working great I even was making progress on reducing flicker.
> 
> Then I decided to update to the Curt Palme listed firmware for the emitter to make polarity switching easier. Now the emitters will not sync with the 3Dfury.
> 
> I reverted firmware back to the Monster still no luck, took a new one and fresh cable out of the box and still no luck.
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that I did something to the 3DFury when I did the update as the emitter was connected to sync port. I can't imagine it back feed something but hey anything is possible.
> 
> Now all the emitters do is have the red LED's scanning back and forth.
> 
> No HUGO for the family on Easter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Try a different USB port to power the emitter. I had one seem to work then stop working. An underpowered USB or USB 3.0 is a problem in my experience.


----------



## trans_lux

Thanks for the ideas/info.

I'm getting power from the 3dfury itself from the sync cable. Also tried using a

separate USB power still no luck.

The red lights just keep cycling back and fourth and never go green and sync.

It has to do with the Fury as I have tried three different emitters all the same results.


----------



## zeedub

Is the 3dfury still outputting a 3d image on the screen. I am using the monstervision with curtpalme firmware on the 3dfury with great results.


----------



## trans_lux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21882865
> 
> 
> Is the 3dfury still outputting a 3d image on the screen. I am using the monstervision with curtpalme firmware on the 3dfury with great results.



I think so, that was my plan to but I updated the emitter while it was connected to the fury via the sync cable. Since then not one of my emitters will connect

I ran out of time but will try latter.


----------



## HokeySmoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trans_lux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I think so, that was my plan to but I updated the emitter while it was connected to the fury via the sync cable. Since then not one of my emitters will connect
> 
> I ran out of time but will try latter.



The glasses may need to be paired again with the emitter. Have you done a factory reset of the glasses?


----------



## trans_lux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HokeySmoke* /forum/post/21883706
> 
> 
> The glasses may need to be paired again with the emitter. Have you done a factory reset of the glasses?



I can't get the emitters to sync up to the fury, the red lights just keep scanning back and fourth.

I'm sure something happened to the fury when I updated the emitter as it was attached via the sync cable. It also shows up as a device in device manager.

Anyone have the 3d fury firmware they could send me?

I can't get the fury guys to give it.


----------



## saltysteven

How do these glasses compare to the 3active?

Or the newer Panasonic??


----------



## trans_lux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saltysteven* /forum/post/21883926
> 
> 
> How do these glasses compare to the 3active?
> 
> Or the newer Panasonic??



From what I see both are specific to particular manufactures displays.

The monsters combo-glasses & emitter-are a really nice combo. Lots of adjustments in the emitter. This is the key element for me. All the other systems I have used that are IR relied on settings in the displays. I'm using them with a 3dfury and a display that is not natively 3D ready and thus has no adjustments.

Now if I can just get my 3dfury to work again...


----------



## zeedub

Have you posted in the hdfury forum. They seem pretty quick to respond and help over there.


----------



## saltysteven




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trans_lux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From what I see both are specific to particular manufactures displays.
> 
> The monsters combo-glasses & emitter-are a really nice combo. Lots of adjustments in the emitter. This is the key element for me. All the other systems I have used that are IR relied on settings in the displays. I'm using them with a 3dfury and a display that is not natively 3D ready and thus has no adjustments.
> 
> Now if I can just get my 3dfury to work again...



Does the emitter come with the monster vision glasses through Amazon for $72???


----------



## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saltysteven* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Does the emitter come with the monster vision glasses through Amazon for $72???



Yes it does. I just got a second pair. Great value!


----------



## saltysteven




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it does. I just got a second pair. Great value!



Great thanks!! Just ordered two!

What should I know before hand.?

Do they have to be tuned and is it difficult?


----------



## trans_lux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zeedub* /forum/post/21885337
> 
> 
> Have you posted in the hdfury forum. They seem pretty quick to respond and help over there.



Yes still no resolution. Waiting on firmware to try a reload.

I think the bottom line is don't update your emitter firmware while the sync cable is attached.


----------



## adidino

So one of my Optima glasses will not sync up. The other pair of Optima and Monster glasss sync up fine. These used to work fine as well. Any ideas?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/21888213
> 
> 
> So one of my Optima glasses will not sync up. The other pair of Optima and Monster glasss sync up fine. These used to work fine as well. Any ideas?



Try to recharge the Optima glasses and do a reset. Information is in the instruction manual.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/21889342
> 
> 
> Try to recharge the Optima glasses and do a reset. Information is in the instruction manual.



I've already tried resetting. I'm thinking maybe re-pairing the glasses to the transmitter? I'll give that a shot and see.


----------



## DaveN

With a Sony front projector VPL-VW1000 I can't get the Monster glasses to work. They keep searching for the 3d IR signal. My sony glasses work fine. I have tried placing the monster ir receiver facing screen, PJ, etc. w/o results. Do they work w/o the optional Sony IR extender-transmitter? Do I have a defective pair or is there some trick to getting them to sync?


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## LVS

^ How far apart is the Sony IR Emitter and where is it located? Make sure the lights are off when you try it because lights in the room interfere.


----------



## DaveN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/21901828
> 
> 
> ^ How far apart is the Sony IR Emitter and where is it located? Make sure the lights are off when you try it because lights in the room interfere.



I've tried hanging the IR receiver on the PJ so it is inches and aklso facing it towards the screen but lights were on very low. I can try again with all lights off tonight.


----------



## DaveN

As usual, user error. I did not have the sensor cable pushed in quite far enough. All is well.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveN* /forum/post/21905571
> 
> 
> As usual, user error. I did not have the sensor cable pushed in quite far enough. All is well.



awesome.


----------



## yesan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trans_lux* /forum/post/21881787
> 
> 
> So everything was working great I even was making progress on reducing flicker.
> 
> Then I decided to update to the Curt Palme listed firmware for the emitter to make polarity switching easier. Now the emitters will not sync with the 3Dfury.
> 
> I reverted firmware back to the Monster still no luck, took a new one and fresh cable out of the box and still no luck.
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that I did something to the 3DFury when I did the update as the emitter was connected to sync port. I can't imagine it back feed something but hey anything is possible.
> 
> Now all the emitters do is have the red LED's scanning back and forth.
> 
> No HUGO for the family on Easter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?




What settings were you working with that helped reduce the flicker? I have an Infocus X10 running with the 3DFury, and I am about to work on reducing the flicker. Were you working with just the duty cycle settings or with delay as well? Please let me know. Thanks in advance.


----------



## trenchtownrock

I have a Sony VW95ES. Are an emitter and the connection necessary? because VW95ES with Built-in Transmitter.


----------



## DaveN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trenchtownrock* /forum/post/21925824
> 
> 
> I have a Sony VW95ES. Are an emitter and the connection necessary? because VW95ES with Built-in Transmitter.



No.


----------



## trenchtownrock

Do I only put on glasses?


----------



## whitetrash66

I have 4 pairs of these for my sony projector. I find that they DO NOT hold a charge. If they are turned off for a couple of weeks, when i try to use them, they are dead even after a full charge! not just one, but all of them. I have tried using different chargers and everything but the battery life is awful. Am i the only one with this problem?


----------



## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitetrash66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have 4 pairs of these for my sony projector. I find that they DO NOT hold a charge. If they are turned off for a couple of weeks, when i try to use them, they are dead even after a full charge! not just one, but all of them. I have tried using different chargers and everything but the battery life is awful. Am i the only one with this problem?



I think a couple of weeks with no power is reasonable. I noticed this also. The glasses will last a long time if used consistently. I would not worry about it


----------



## blueEyedFrog

Hi All,


Here's an inexpensive solution for anyone experiencing reflection problems - Bat Vision!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21935918


----------



## The Knuckle

So I have a Panasonic TC-P65ST30


Are the Monster Cable Glasses still the best glasses to buy for a Active shutter Plasma?


Are they still offering a better picture?


thanks for the help!


----------



## eqzitara

This won't work if I have an acer 5360 dlp projector and I want to use with 3d vision (I have 3d vision emitter) correct?


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

Hi guys, before I jump into getting these glasses, and a 3dfury, can anyone tell me if there is any flicker at all? I am pairing it with an Epson 8350 pjay and it does 60hz. thanks for any replies


----------



## audionewer

hi. u guys know how to reset / default the setting for the emitter. i want to reset the emittier to orginal setting. but i dont know how do i do that?


please help me.


i got hd33 projector.


----------



## Robut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audionewer* /forum/post/21965589
> 
> 
> hi. u guys know how to reset / default the setting for the emitter. i want to reset the emittier to orginal setting. but i dont know how do i do that?
> 
> 
> please help me.
> 
> 
> i got hd33 projector.



Read the manual http://www.monstercable.com/lit/Max_3D_manual.pdf 


sec 2.1 Page 11 explains it.

*Monster is selling the glasses and emitter for $59.95 now!!!!!*


----------



## G-Rex

With a Sony projector can 2 pairs of Sony glasses operate at the same time with 2 pairs of Monsters using the one Sony built in emitter Or does two emitters need to be used (the Sony and the Monster external). Thanks


----------



## LVS

^ Yes, just one emitter. The emitter is outputting an IR signal so the Monster Receiver and the Sony Receiver in the glasses all operate fine, however, you must have the emitter from the Sony in front you firing back towards the glasses or they will not stay sync'd.


----------



## G-Rex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, just one emitter. The emitter is outputting an IR signal so the Monster Receiver and the Sony Receiver in the glasses all operate fine, however, you must have the emitter from the Sony in front you firing back towards the glasses or they will not stay sync'd.



Thanks for the info. Will the built in Sony emitter not work even if the Sony 1000 is table top mounted a few feet behind me and just 10" over my head? If so what type of wire does the emitter require? I think I would need about 35' of wire.


----------



## LVS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Rex* /forum/post/21968873
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Will the built in Sony emitter not work even if the Sony 1000 is table top mounted a few feet behind me and just 10" over my head? If so what type of wire does the emitter require? I think I would need about 35' of wire.



Ah, I was making an assumption on the Sony projector not having a built-in emitter and I read over that part in your post, sorry. You will probably be fine then. You may have to mount the IR-receiver from the Monster Visions near your projector but you will have to experiment. I would try the built-in emitter first for sure.


----------



## G-Rex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LVS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, I was making an assumption on the Sony projector not having a built-in emitter and I read over that part in your post, sorry. You will probably be fine then. You may have to mount the IR-receiver from the Monster Visions near your projector but you will have to experiment. I would try the built-in emitter first for sure.



Ok, thanks. Hopefully I will have theater back up in 4 weeks. Then I will try that.


----------



## Wesley Hester

I got a pair yesterday for use with my Mitsubishi WD-92840.


The initial charge time was pretty much right at 3 hours as the manual stated it would be. I'm currently using the IR receiver cable and it works as advertised. The IR receiver itself isn't very sensitive however. My HDTV's IR blaster reaches over 12' but the Monster IR receiver can only "see" about a couple of feet at the most and doesn't have the range of my other IR 3D glasses' IR receivers.


When a 3D signal was detected for the very first time, the unit locked in immediately and the glasses synced as soon as I turned them on.


The image through the glasses looks great, there is less lose of apparent brightness, color shift at off angles is normal/minimal and there is no color banding with certain gradients like the less expensive 3Active/TrueDepth glasses I have tried. These glasses overall appear to have the same great quality as the Mitsubishi branded Xpand X103's I use.


I've really just wanted a pair of 3D glasses I could use exclusively for myself that were rechargeable and of good quality: I've finally found them.


----------



## Toknowshita

Just an update. These glasses are still available from Monster directly via their website. Considering the closeout price of $59.95 also includes the Tx with the IR receiver it is one of the better deals for active glasses. Also with the app the glasses are fairly tweakable. I am surprised they still have any in stock.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toknowshita* /forum/post/22003559
> 
> 
> Just an update. These glasses are still available from Monster directly via their website. Considering the closeout price of $59.95 also includes the Tx with the IR receiver it is one of the better deals for active glasses. Also with the app the glasses are fairly tweakable. I am surprised they still have any in stock.


 http://electronics.monstercable.com/...203d%20glasses 


Order two pairs and use the following coupon to save even 10% more on these glasses with free shipping from Monster direct. This is a great buy.


MothersDay10Off2012N or the following code which is good at their outlet store until the end of the year.


news10off2011


I suggest that you update the firmware from the VIP site as soon as you get the glasses. This is the latest firmware and makes polarity adjustment easier. VIP (Bit Caldron) is the company that made the glasses for Monster. This firmware works fine with these glasses. The instruction manual on this site is also much better.

http://www.3d-vip.com/


----------



## jasonmichaelh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Order two pairs and use the following coupon to save even 10% more on these glasses with free shipping from Monster direct. This is a great buy.
> 
> 
> MothersDay10Off2012N



Thanks for the code


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22004680
> 
> 
> Order two pairs and use the following coupon to save even 10% more on these glasses with free shipping from Monster direct. This is a great buy.
> 
> 
> MothersDay10Off2012N or the following code which is good at their outlet store until the end of the year.
> 
> 
> news10off2011



I had 2 pair sitting in the cart but couldn't bring myself to click the button since I'm still 6-8 months away from finishing my new theater. The 10% code pushed me over the edge and my order is in the books!


Thanks for the code(s)!


----------



## derek

Thanks for the code. Just ordered two pairs to add to my previous two pairs of the Optoma-branded versions. My GT750 came with transmitter but now have two spares plus the IR receivers which I may use in the future.


----------



## Ronomy

Same here! Added two more pair...now I have 6 pair and all seating in my theater has a pair of glasses. Sweet!


----------



## rwestley

Glad that many of you have jumped on this great deal. I would suggest updating the firmware to the VIP version from Bit Caldron asap. This is the latest version and works with the Monster glasses.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...68a3ca0bb4bdfa


----------



## Vampyro

Is there a reason to update besides the easier polarity switching? I haven't updated my glasses and managed to change polarity with a little effort seems like it would take more effort to update


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vampyro* /forum/post/22014724
> 
> 
> Is there a reason to update besides the easier polarity switching? I haven't updated my glasses and managed to change polarity with a little effort seems like it would take more effort to update



Update is very easy and you also get the ability to make adjustments with the firmware app. It only takes a few minutes for each pair.


----------



## Vampyro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Update is very easy and you also get the ability to make adjustments with the firmware app. It only takes a few minutes for each pair.



When you have Mac at home and PC only at work it becomes a chore. Ah well. Im still not totally convinced. Is there a noticeable difference?


----------



## Joseph MAK

Thinking to get a 2nd pair of MV3D glasses. Is the xpand 103 the same as MV3D? Are MV3D and xpand 103 just different OEM?


----------



## rwestley

The Xpands are not made by Bit Caldron and are different from the MV3d glasses. The Xpands work with IR not RF.


----------



## browerjs

I finally broke down and picked up two pair of the mv3ds with the great sale. I'm assuming that I can just use a standard motorola smart phone usb plug to power the transmitter?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/22017591
> 
> 
> I finally broke down and picked up two pair of the mv3ds with the great sale. I'm assuming that I can just use a standard motorola smart phone usb plug to power the transmitter?



u


They should come with a cable. The glasses and emitter use the same cable that your cell phone uses and the Motorola charger works great with the glasses.


----------



## DaveN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/22017634
> 
> 
> u
> 
> 
> They should come with a cable. The glasses and emitter use the same cable that your cell phone uses and the Motorola charger works great with the glasses.



I could not get my new glasses to power up after charging overnight via a moto cell charger that was .75 Amp output. I also tried with a htc 1 amp charger and another model moto charger. I called Monster tech support support and they told me to hook them up to a computer usb port to charge that this was a known issue. That did the trick. They couldn't tell me why I was having problems with cell chargers.


----------



## rwestley

It seems if that if you let the battery fully run down some external chargers will not work.

If you have an I-Pad or I-Phone charger I think they will work since they put out more power.


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

I went ahead and got 2 more pairs as well







, now I will have 4 pairs. Can anyone please take me thru the process of upgrading the firmare? am I downloading the firmare, then plug the emmiter in my laptop/pc and run the utility program go to upgrade and run it? Does this in turn update emmiter and when I sync it up to the glasses does it send the upgrade to the glasses? Finally do I turn on the glasses one at a time or all 4 to sync them and upgrade them at once? Any input would be very grateful.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/22018741
> 
> 
> I went ahead and got 2 more pairs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , now I will have 4 pairs. Can anyone please take me thru the process of upgrading the firmare? am I downloading the firmare, then plug the emmiter in my laptop/pc and run the utility program go to upgrade and run it? Does this in turn update emmiter and when I sync it up to the glasses does it send the upgrade to the glasses? Finally do I turn on the glasses one at a time or all 4 to sync them and upgrade them at once? Any input would be very grateful.



Download the firmware updater from the like I posted above. Install the updater on your drive and plug in the glasses. Open the VIP upgrade Utility and hit the upgrade tab. Do the upgrade and follow instructions. It should take only a few minutes.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/22018741
> 
> 
> I went ahead and got 2 more pairs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , now I will have 4 pairs. Can anyone please take me thru the process of upgrading the firmare? am I downloading the firmare, then plug the emmiter in my laptop/pc and run the utility program go to upgrade and run it? Does this in turn update emmiter and when I sync it up to the glasses does it send the upgrade to the glasses? Finally do I turn on the glasses one at a time or all 4 to sync them and upgrade them at once? Any input would be very grateful.



Turn the glasses on after the upgrade. The first time after the upgrade it may take a little longer because the new firmware is sent from the transmitter to the glasses. The glasses will sync automatically.


----------



## browerjs

Since I got two transmitter/glasses pair with the monster.com deal, I'm wondering how easy it is to setup a transmitter on two different displays (Sony Projector/Panny Plasma) and sync the glasses for that particular transmitter. Glasses would only be used with one display at a time.


----------



## mrfattbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22020050
> 
> 
> Download the firmware updater from the like I posted above. Install the updater on your drive and plug in the *glasses.* Open the VIP upgrade Utility and hit the upgrade tab. Do the upgrade and follow instructions. It should take only a few minutes.



Don't you mean the transmitter?


Bill


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfattbill* /forum/post/22020393
> 
> 
> Don't you mean the transmitter?
> 
> 
> Bill



yes, let me get this straight it's NOT the transmitter you update, only the glasses? OR both? I was under the impression it was the transmitter that gets updated and it sends the signal to the glasses


----------



## Ronomy

You only have to update the emitter with the VIP firmware. The glasses will update when they first link to the emitter.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22020057
> 
> 
> Turn the glasses on after the upgrade. The first time after the upgrade it may take a little longer because the new firmware is sent from the transmitter to the glasses. The glasses will sync automatically.



Just to be clear there is no firmware sent to the glasses, it remains strictly in the transmitter. RF glasses are dumb receivers, whatever frequency that is sent to the glasses is how much they will shutter at within the adjustment range of the transmitter. Approximately 50-240 hz. The only smarts the glasses have are in the charging circuit and their binding to a particular transmitter.


----------



## mrfattbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22021192
> 
> 
> Just to be clear there is no firmware sent to the glasses, it remains strictly in the transmitter. RF glasses are dumb receivers, whatever frequency that is sent to the glasses is how much they will shutter at within the adjustment range of the transmitter. Approximately 50-240 hz. The only smarts the glasses have are in the charging circuit and their binding to a particular transmitter.



I am 99.9999999% positive that was a typo.










Bill


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

Thanks Bill and everyone for the response and the correction, so I only have to update the emitter/transmitter, got it!!!


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22021192
> 
> 
> Just to be clear there is no firmware sent to the glasses, it remains strictly in the transmitter. RF glasses are dumb receivers, whatever frequency that is sent to the glasses is how much they will shutter at within the adjustment range of the transmitter. Approximately 50-240 hz. The only smarts the glasses have are in the charging circuit and their binding to a particular transmitter.



You may be correct but page 28 of the Monster glasses manual states


"EYEWEAR UPDATES

"Firmware for the Eyewear is updated via the transmitter, when the firmware in

the transmitter is updated it also contains updated firmware for the Eyewear.

When the Eyewear is turned on and syncs with the transmitter it automatically downloads new firmware.

During this process the LED will blink rapidly as the firmware is being updated, once the update is complete the Eyewear is ready to use."


It is recommended that after updating the firmware in the transmitter that the Eyewear be turned on so that the update can take place. This will ensure that the Eyewear is ready to go the next time it is used..." (Page 28 Monster glasses manual)


----------



## zkidz

That's correct, the Monster glasses do have firmware, but it is always downloaded from the transceiver dongle over RF, so you don't need to ever update it.


(For those with hardware hacking curiosities, both seem to be i8052 based devices and the glasses/transceiver share some amount of common codebase)


----------



## jasonmichaelh

Anyone notice a buzzing sound coming from their glasses? It was briefly mentioned by some posters when this thread was started, but not much said after that.


The buzz sound is only noticable during quiet scenes of movies (or games).


-Could you hear buzzing from your glasses when they were new?

-Did age make them buzz more/louder?

-Anyone know of a fix?


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22021983
> 
> 
> You may be correct but page 28 of the Monster glasses manual states
> 
> 
> "EYEWEAR UPDATES
> 
> "Firmware for the Eyewear is updated via the transmitter, when the firmware in
> 
> the transmitter is updated it also contains updated firmware for the Eyewear.
> 
> When the Eyewear is turned on and syncs with the transmitter it automatically downloads new firmware.
> 
> During this process the LED will blink rapidly as the firmware is being updated, once the update is complete the Eyewear is ready to use."
> 
> 
> It is recommended that after updating the firmware in the transmitter that the Eyewear be turned on so that the update can take place. This will ensure that the Eyewear is ready to go the next time it is used..." (Page 28 Monster glasses manual)



I wish I could explain this subject which is rather convoluted from the manufacturer. There is a firmware in the glasses that is primarily for the manufacturer to make certain changes that occur during production. The FULL firmware that you are interested in and that YOU update takes place in the transmitter. The glasses themselves when re-enabled after a firmware update of the transmitter will basically only be updated to the point where they recognize certain settings that are made using the transmitter dongle, such as polarity reversal for instance.


So yes, to a degree they are updated but the transmitter is getting the bulk of the of the firmware rewrite.


In the end we just update the transmitter which is what SpinsterSRXD now has a clear understanding.


----------



## mrfattbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonmichaelh* /forum/post/22022503
> 
> 
> Anyone notice a buzzing sound coming from their glasses? It was briefly mentioned by some posters when this thread was started, but not much said after that.
> 
> 
> The buzz sound is only noticable during quiet scenes of movies (or games).
> 
> 
> -Could you hear buzzing from your glasses when they were new?
> 
> -Did age make them buzz more/louder?
> 
> -Anyone know of a fix?



I can hear it when it's quiet.


Bill


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22022573
> 
> 
> I wish I could explain this subject which is rather convoluted from the manufacturer. There is a firmware in the glasses that is primarily for the manufacturer to make certain changes that occur during production. The FULL firmware that you are interested in and that YOU update takes place in the transmitter. The glasses themselves when re-enabled after a firmware update of the transmitter will basically only be updated to the point where they recognize certain settings that are made using the transmitter dongle, such as polarity reversal for instance.
> 
> 
> So yes, to a degree they are updated but the transmitter is getting the bulk of the of the firmware rewrite.
> 
> 
> In the end we just update the transmitter which is what SpinsterSRXD now has a clear understanding.



You said it very well. The transmitter is really "getting the bulk of the firmware update. I think that you are also correct that the transmitter is just sending the new signal to the glasses and even though it may be called an update it is really just a setting change.


----------



## rwestley

Monster is even offering a better deal for 3 days only 20% off $59.95. This is the best price ever for these glasses and transmitter.

http://electronics.monstercable.com/...w=3d%20glasses 


Discount code below.

3DAY20OFF


Free shipping when the order is over $100


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22026546
> 
> 
> Monster is even offering a better deal for 3 days only 20% off $59.95. This is the best price ever for these glasses and transmitter.
> 
> http://electronics.monstercable.com/...w=3d%20glasses
> 
> 
> Discount code below.
> 
> 3DAY20OFF
> 
> 
> Free shipping when the order is over $100



Only problem is it looks like the dreaded charging resistor defect is back if you go by a recent review posted on their site. I went through that with Bit Cauldron in 2011 when they had a significant batch go through with the incorrect resistor which would not allow the glasses to charge properly.


Also the Li-Po battery that is inside them is no longer sourceable. I've written them about it a few months back and no response.


I am awaiting a new 3DRF glasses to test that has a separate RF transmitter similar to the type that comes with wireless keyboards and mice. All the adjustments are on the glasses frame and have various presets for different displays and other adjustments. No more messing with the jstick on the transmitter at least.


Since I already have Monster/3DVIP RF glasses I am going to forego adding any more since there is no battery replacement at this point. It also appears Monsters customer service is not responding for replacement glasses if they don't charge.


Thanks for posting the deal just the same.


----------



## Ronomy

Man I hope not! That will suck. Not sure I would want polarity change buttons on the glasses. I would rather have control over all the glasses in the room. A lot of people don't understand it well enough to know if its right or wrong and I don't want to check every pair of glasses. These work well enough. As far as the battery they should outlast the glasses and this technology. They don't get charged very often and are good for a lot more charges than I will ever charge them.


----------



## zkidz

@SgtVideo, @rwestley: I've torn the firmware apart enough to see that there does appear to be actual i8052 executable code for the glasses embedded inside the i8052 code for the transponder. It may just be a patch to a base ROM, or a user code table, but it is more than just settings.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/22028021
> 
> 
> @SgtVideo, @rwestley: I've torn the firmware apart enough to see that there does appear to be actual i8052 executable code for the glasses embedded inside the i8052 code for the transponder. It may just be a patch to a base ROM, or a user code table, but it is more than just settings.



I certainly wouldn't disagree with you findings zkidz but I can only go with the comments from those higher up the food chains that represent these companies. How accurate they are and how much they wish to reveal is a different question.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22026662
> 
> 
> Only problem is it looks like the dreaded charging resistor defect is back if you go by a recent review posted on their site. I went through that with Bit Cauldron in 2011 when they had a significant batch go through with the incorrect resistor which would not allow the glasses to charge properly.
> 
> 
> Also the Li-Po battery that is inside them is no longer sourceable. I've written them about it a few months back and no response.
> 
> 
> I am awaiting a new 3DRF glasses to test that has a separate RF transmitter similar to the type that comes with wireless keyboards and mice. All the adjustments are on the glasses frame and have various presets for different displays and other adjustments. No more messing with the jstick on the transmitter at least.
> 
> 
> Since I already have Monster/3DVIP RF glasses I am going to forego adding any more since there is no battery replacement at this point. It also appears Monsters customer service is not responding for replacement glasses if they don't charge.
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting the deal just the same.



Sounds like the Xpand 104's with RF dongle that you are talking about.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zkidz* /forum/post/22028021
> 
> 
> @SgtVideo, @rwestley: I've torn the firmware apart enough to see that there does appear to be actual i8052 executable code for the glasses embedded inside the i8052 code for the transponder. It may just be a patch to a base ROM, or a user code table, but it is more than just settings.



Thanks, very interesting that there actually is a firmware update for the glasses.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22028509
> 
> 
> Sounds like the Xpand 104's with RF dongle that you are talking about.



No, this is new production from a different vendor. Not mentioning their name at this time until given the OK and see how these work out. Supposedly the presets optimize the tuning for various display types and give the least amount of flicker when used at 60hz.


Made for folks that have difficulty using the tuning modes. The manual mode is still available for those that are adept to using it.


----------



## browerjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/22020134
> 
> 
> Since I got two transmitter/glasses pair with the monster.com deal, I'm wondering how easy it is to setup a transmitter on two different displays (Sony Projector/Panny Plasma) and sync the glasses for that particular transmitter. Glasses would only be used with one display at a time.



Anyone?


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/22029017
> 
> 
> Anyone?



Since the transmitter only stores the last settings used if you change displays or possibly source player and retune then those settings are over written. Odds are likely you will be retuning when switching back and forth and maybe reversing polarity as well.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22029343
> 
> 
> Since the transmitter only stores the last settings used if you change displays or possibly source player and retune then those settings are over written. Odds are likely you will be retuning when switching back and forth and maybe reversing polarity as well.




Not if you use a different emitter/transmitter! You can program each for the display they are attached too. Then use the glasses on both.


----------



## browerjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22029343
> 
> 
> Since the transmitter only stores the last settings used if you change displays or possibly source player and retune then those settings are over written. Odds are likely you will be retuning when switching back and forth and maybe reversing polarity as well.



I think you might be misunderstanding what I want to do. I want to have a transmitter at each display, and move the glasses between them. Don't I just have to sync the glasses to the transmitter when I switch displays?


----------



## mrfattbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/22029439
> 
> 
> I think you might be misunderstanding what I want to do. I want to have a transmitter at each display, and move the glasses between them. Don't I just have to sync the glasses to the transmitter when I switch displays?



I would guess they will sync with which ever transmitter is on at the time automatically. I recall seeing that somewhere in a thread here.


Bill


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/22029439
> 
> 
> I think you might be misunderstanding what I want to do. I want to have a transmitter at each display, and move the glasses between them. Don't I just have to sync the glasses to the transmitter when I switch displays?



Yes I did. Since I have not used two transmitters in the same environment it does sound plausible that if you have two transmitters that are separately tuned for the system in use then indeed that should work.


----------



## trenchtownrock

I received yesterday.very nice!no ploblem.Should I FW update?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trenchtownrock* /forum/post/22035884
> 
> 
> I received yesterday.very nice!no ploblem.Should I FW update?



I suggest that you update the firmware with the VIP firmware. It is the latest and only takes a few minutes. I did it on the two transmitters I received two days ago.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22028676
> 
> 
> No, this is new production from a different vendor. Not mentioning their name at this time until given the OK and see how these work out. Supposedly the presets optimize the tuning for various display types and give the least amount of flicker when used at 60hz.
> 
> 
> Made for folks that have difficulty using the tuning modes. The manual mode is still available for those that are adept to using it.



Sounds interesting. Hope that they can reduce flicker. Wish the settings could also lower ghosting.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22036563
> 
> 
> Sounds interesting. Hope that they can reduce flicker. Wish the settings could also lower ghosting.



What model display are you having the ghosting problem with?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22036608
> 
> 
> What model display are you having the ghosting problem with?



I have a JVC RS45 projector and there is a know ghosting issue on some 3d sources and disks. It is great on 2D.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22036936
> 
> 
> I have a JVC RS45 projector and there is a know ghosting issue on some 3d sources and disks. It is great on 2D.



They might reduce some of the ghosting but the image will get noticably dimmer as you reduce the duty cycle below 80%. The JVC panels just don't refresh quick enough.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22036936
> 
> 
> I have a JVC RS45 projector and there is a know ghosting issue on some 3d sources and disks. It is great on 2D.



Just in case you haven't, disable any video enhancement options like "noise reduction" and such one at a time to see if ghosting is improved. In 3D mode in a lot of displays those options get grey out because of their nature to reprocess frames, that can be problematic for 3D frame packed video and exacerbate ghosting. I believe your projector is already 3D capable but just in case there may be a menu option that could be hindering best 3D image that is still enabled.


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22037849
> 
> 
> Just in case you haven't, disable any video enhancement options like "noise reduction" and such one at a time to see if ghosting is improved. In 3D mode in a lot of displays those options get grey out because of their nature to reprocess frames, that can be problematic for 3D frame packed video and exacerbate ghosting. I believe your projector is already 3D capable but just in case there may be a menu option that could be hindering best 3D image that is still enabled.



Have done all of the above. The Ghosting is not usually bad. I just know that DLP and a few other projectors have less of a ghosting issue. I bought the projector mainly for 2D. I don't think anything equals it in this class. I really don't think it will be possible to fully tune out the ghosting on some films.


Thanks for your reply.


----------



## roknrol

Wasn't otherwise able to come up with a concrete answer to this question:


Are the Monster Max 3D glasses compatible with nVidia's 3D Vision system? Was a firmware update ever made available for 3D Vision?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roknrol* /forum/post/22038872
> 
> 
> Wasn't otherwise able to come up with a concrete answer to this question:
> 
> 
> Are the Monster Max 3D glasses compatible with nVidia's 3D Vision system? Was a firmware update ever made available for 3D Vision?



The M.V. glasses are not compatible. You must use DLP glasses.


----------



## browerjs

So I got my 2 pair of MV3Ds today, but am having problems getting the transmitter power with the IR plugged in.


when I plug in just the power to a PC, cell phone charger, IPad charger, or Panasonic Plasma, the leds on the transmitter flash across in red, as soon as plug in the IR cable (which is difficult to get in all the way), the LEDs go out immediately, if I wiggle it around a little bit the leds start flashing back and forth again, but it's because the IR cable isn't seated all the way.


On both my Windows 7 laptop and my Panasonic TV, I got messages about USB power overload.


Any ideas what's going on here? I'm seeing the exact same thing with both transmitters and IR cables... BTW, I flashed to the VIP FW before I tried anything.


----------



## LVS

browerjs, if you haven't figured it out make sure that IR receiver plugged is pushed all the way in the transmitter... you will feel like you are going to break but give a good push and everything will work fine.


----------



## browerjs

I still haven't gotten it to work. As soon as I give it that extra push the light goes from on to off...


----------



## browerjs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *browerjs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still haven't gotten it to work. As soon as I give it that extra push the light goes from on to off...



Ha... 2 seconds after replying, I grabbed the transmitter and gave it one extra push and it snapped into place... I gave it power and it lighted right up... As soon as it's halftime of the pacers/heat game I'm going to try to sync it again... Man I feel like an idiot


----------



## browerjs

Synced up to my hw30 and panny plasma with no problems... Was able to move with the glasses after turning one display off without a problem... Thanks for the tip...


----------



## roknrol




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley* /forum/post/22039523
> 
> 
> The M.V. glasses are not compatible. You must use DLP glasses.



With my Acer H5360 I can use either DLP-Link or nvidia 3D Vision (with IR kit) glasses. (I'm using the latter.) I'd like to add a few more pairs of glasses, but don't want to be locked into a proprietary format (nvidia or DLP-link) as I'd like to move up to a Sony or Epson in the near future.


Sounds like the Monsters aren't going to offer me that bridge. Thanks for replying.


----------



## LVS

browerjs, I had to learn the hard way too...


----------



## SpinsterSXRD

Well the 3Dfury did not work out for me so I had to return it and 2 pairs of monster 3d max glasses. I had another set I purchased that is open box, any one interested in 2 pairs? PM me and I will give you a good price.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *roknrol* /forum/post/22046570
> 
> 
> With my Acer H5360 I can use either DLP-Link or nvidia 3D Vision (with IR kit) glasses. (I'm using the latter.) I'd like to add a few more pairs of glasses, but don't want to be locked into a proprietary format (nvidia or DLP-link) as I'd like to move up to a Sony or Epson in the near future.
> 
> 
> Sounds like the Monsters aren't going to offer me that bridge. Thanks for replying.



You should see how good the H5360 looks after a grey scale calibration through the glasses. Night and day difference. I am using the monster glasses with a VIP 3D Theatre. I just ran the calibration last week and now I see no need to change a thing as far as 3D goes. Too bright and blacks too high for 2D viewing though. Unless its day time and the blackout shades are open. LOL


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22026662
> 
> 
> Only problem is it looks like the dreaded charging resistor defect is back if you go by a recent review posted on their site. I went through that with Bit Cauldron in 2011 when they had a significant batch go through with the incorrect resistor which would not allow the glasses to charge properly.
> 
> 
> Also the Li-Po battery that is inside them is no longer sourceable. I've written them about it a few months back and no response.
> 
> 
> I am awaiting a new 3DRF glasses to test that has a separate RF transmitter similar to the type that comes with wireless keyboards and mice. All the adjustments are on the glasses frame and have various presets for different displays and other adjustments. No more messing with the jstick on the transmitter at least.
> 
> 
> Since I already have Monster/3DVIP RF glasses I am going to forego adding any more since there is no battery replacement at this point. It also appears Monsters customer service is not responding for replacement glasses if they don't charge.
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting the deal just the same.



Well my two new pair charged up just fine! All is well.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22026662
> 
> 
> Only problem is it looks like the dreaded charging resistor defect is back if you go by a recent review posted on their site. I went through that with Bit Cauldron in 2011 when they had a significant batch go through with the incorrect resistor which would not allow the glasses to charge properly.
> 
> 
> Also the Li-Po battery that is inside them is no longer sourceable. I've written them about it a few months back and no response.
> 
> 
> I am awaiting a new 3DRF glasses to test that has a separate RF transmitter similar to the type that comes with wireless keyboards and mice. All the adjustments are on the glasses frame and have various presets for different displays and other adjustments. No more messing with the jstick on the transmitter at least.
> 
> 
> Since I already have Monster/3DVIP RF glasses I am going to forego adding any more since there is no battery replacement at this point. It also appears Monsters customer service is not responding for replacement glasses if they don't charge.
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting the deal just the same.



Which glasses are you talking about? This something new being release by 3DVIP?


----------



## SpinsterSXRD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpinsterSXRD* /forum/post/22050949
> 
> 
> Well the 3Dfury did not work out for me so I had to return it and 2 pairs of monster 3d max glasses. I had another set I purchased that is open box, any one interested in 2 pairs? PM me and I will give you a good price.



These two pairs I mentioned have been sold!


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/22059973
> 
> 
> Which glasses are you talking about? This something new being release by 3DVIP?



Yes 3DVIP had the problem in 2011 and Bit Cauldron also makes them for Monstervision. The symptoms are very similar. I worked with Bit Cauldron last year by sending in test and measurements on some of the 3DVIP group glasses and it was estimated about 40 units made it through production with the incorrect resistor which prevents them from ever reaching their charge design. In the end the count was somewhat higher.


It can certainly happen again depending on shift or line changes in Asia. So I am not surprised if it appears on the Monster product.


Just in case you are referring to new RF glasses, then yes I am awaiting a set of new design 3DNOW/3DVIP RF glasses.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22061288
> 
> 
> Just in case you are referring to new RF glasses, then yes I am awaiting a set of new design 3DNOW/3DVIP RF glasses.



That's what I was referring to. Are you waiting as in hopeful they will design something new or is that confirmed and you are waiting to test the product?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22061288
> 
> 
> Yes 3DVIP had the problem in 2011 and Bit Cauldron also makes them for Monstervision. The symptoms are very similar. I worked with Bit Cauldron last year by sending in test and measurements on some of the 3DVIP group glasses and it was estimated about 40 units made it through production with the incorrect resistor which prevents them from ever reaching their charge design. In the end the count was somewhat higher.
> 
> 
> It can certainly happen again depending on shift or line changes in Asia. So I am not surprised if it appears on the Monster product.
> 
> 
> Just in case you are referring to new RF glasses, then yes I am awaiting a set of new design 3DNOW/3DVIP RF glasses.



If you get these you will still have to make sure your old glasses are in sync with the new ones. I would rather have one location to change polarity and know all the others are in sync too. With a button on the glasses you could have some right and some wrongly set. Sort of like how ir glasses can be if you look away from the screen and back. It could change. At least that what it said happened when they reviewed the VIP 3D Theatre in the latest magazine article.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy* /forum/post/22061611
> 
> 
> If you get these you will still have to make sure your old glasses are in sync with the new ones. I would rather have one location to change polarity and know all the others are in sync too. With a button on the glasses you could have some right and some wrongly set. Sort of like how ir glasses can be if you look away from the screen and back. It could change. At least that what it said happened when they reviewed the VIP 3D Theatre in the latest magazine article.



Understand that and by getting a hands-on I hope to see what inconvenient issues appear. Ideally, if one pair could report back to the transmitter the polarity adjustment, it could then reset all to that setting. Or at the USB transmitter just have a small REVPOL button. I hope to give them feedback if there's any dislikes in it.


Could you point me to the magazine article you are referring?


Tnx


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo* /forum/post/22061745
> 
> 
> Understand that and by getting a hands-on I hope to see what inconvenient issues appear. Ideally, if one pair could report back to the transmitter the polarity adjustment, it could then reset all to that setting. Or at the USB transmitter just have a small REVPOL button. I hope to give them feedback if there's any dislikes in it.
> 
> 
> Could you point me to the magazine article you are referring?
> 
> 
> Tnx



That would be cool if it would report back to the transmitter!


Widescreen Review, April 2012 issue. An article on the VIP 3D Theatre. It was good...based on 3D on 2D TV's only so the only issue was flicker but they liked it. They liked the RF glasses too. IR's were good but they did have issues with flipped eye's in some glasses after loosing the IR sync.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/22061326
> 
> 
> That's what I was referring to. Are you waiting as in hopeful they will design something new or is that confirmed and you are waiting to test the product?



These are new and unreleased but whether they have any weakness like Ronomy pointed out is what remains to be seen. Also whether they can be used in tandem with the MV glasses without interference is another question.

The presets for different display types that minimizes 60hz flicker is a plus. Some folks just haven't been able to tune them like some of us.


----------



## dtchung

So, what is the difference between MonsterVision Max 3D firmware vs. VIP. I read it's easier to change polarity, but are there other advantages? They seem very similar in their functions.


----------



## rwestley

They are similar but the VIP is less buggy and fixes the installer problem that some have had. It also has the polarity adjustment fix


----------



## audionewer


no popup when i watch some movies. i only can see depth.

 

how do i reset setting from the software?


----------



## jtgrunden

Does anyone know where you can find the firmware update utility?

I've searched Monsters site but have only found the guide and the link in the guide for the utility doesn't work.


Disregard, I found it.


Thanks,

JT


----------



## James Bernard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jtgrunden*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/720#post_22103084
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where you can find the firmware update utility?
> 
> I've searched Monsters site but have only found the guide and the link in the guide for the utility doesn't work.
> 
> Disregard, I found it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JT



It's a chore to find. The weblink listed in the quick start guide doesn't work.


I found the link under support then manuals. Use this link to get there: http://www.monsterproducts.com/manuals/default.asp 


Then "Search Manuals" for the Product Code "132763". A list of links to the various manuals and firmware update utility will then be provided.


----------



## rwestley

If anyone is looking for an amazing deal on these glasses you can go to the Monster Store and get they for $59.95 each including transmitter. Use the following code to get an additional 25% off

http://electronics.monsterproducts.com/search?site=allsites&asug=&view=grid&w=3d+glasses&x=0&y=0 


friendsandfamily25offx2012


When you buy 3 or more pairs you also get free shipping.



I would also recommend using the VIP firmware rather than the Monster firmware to do the update. It is newer and the VIP firmware comes from Bit Caldron the manufacture of the glasses.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776&sid=8304adf6131b5df21e51f2e26884ea21


----------



## Wesley Hester

If one has already applied the latest Monster update, can the utility be uninstalled and the VIP utility installed and firmware applied without issue?


----------



## SgtVideo

Yes.


----------



## whitetrash66

Well, i posted something along these lines earlier, but i'm doing it again.


My 4 pairs of monster glasses have great fit and performance, but i'm having SERIOUS issues with battery life.

3 of the 4 pairs last a movie, maybe 2, and then i have to charge them again. Even if i watch 1 3d movie a week, that means i have to charge them every 2 weeks. My factory Sony glasses do not have this problem. I've only charged them once, and i've had my projector for a year. MInd you I don't use them as much, but i bet they would last 15 movies or more.


As for my fourth pair, well, they won't charge or power on anymore. WTF


So i have 4 pair that either don't hold a charge, or won't work. Does nobody else have this problem? i've tried different chargers and cables, and no matter what, this is how long they last.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitetrash66*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/720#post_22120854
> 
> 
> Well, i posted something along these lines earlier, but i'm doing it again.
> 
> My 4 pairs of monster glasses have great fit and performance, but i'm having SERIOUS issues with battery life.
> 
> 3 of the 4 pairs last a movie, maybe 2, and then i have to charge them again. Even if i watch 1 3d movie a week, that means i have to charge them every 2 weeks. My factory Sony glasses do not have this problem. I've only charged them once, and i've had my projector for a year. MInd you I don't use them as much, but i bet they would last 15 movies or more.
> 
> As for my fourth pair, well, they won't charge or power on anymore. WTF
> 
> So i have 4 pair that either don't hold a charge, or won't work. Does nobody else have this problem? i've tried different chargers and cables, and no matter what, this is how long they last.



I found the charger from my old LG phone to work the best with my glasses. It's a 700ma supply and my glasses last the longest after I charge with it. I don`t watch 3D that often but my glasses still work after sitting 3 plus weeks and even if I only watch a movie or two in that time. I charge them about once a month. One pair loses a little quicker than the others. 3 weeks but the others have lasted 6 weeks and still worked...as long as I used that LG charger. My 850ma charger charges more quickly and the charge doesn't last as long.


----------



## LVS

^ I have read somewhere on the forums that some of these glasses had an incorrect resistor or cap (not sure which) in a production run that causes this issue. You may want to call monster if they are fairly new, because the battery life should be similar to the sony glasses.


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/720#post_22122895
> 
> 
> I found the charger from my old LG phone to work the best with my glasses. It's a 700ma supply and my glasses last the longest after I charge with it. I don`t watch 3D that often but my glasses still work after sitting 3 plus weeks and even if I only watch a movie or two in that time. I charge them about once a month. One pair loses a little quicker than the others. 3 weeks but the others have lasted 6 weeks and still worked...as long as I used that LG charger. My 850ma charger charges more quickly and the charge doesn't last as long.



My Optoma RF glasses seem to hold the charge fine. The Monsters I just got a few weeks ago and haven't been able to evaluate fully. Though one pair seemed to loose a charge very quickly but need to confirm this. I hope there isn't a hardware issue as someone mentioned (capacitor/resistor.) Is that why they were selling them so cheap?


----------



## rwestley

It could also be the charger that you used for the first time. There have been reports that many usb chargers or computers do not do a good job of charging. I would suggest using an I-Pad. charger if you have one or something that can charge a i-pad or i-phone. I have several pairs of these glasses and I noticed the same problem not using a good charger. It seems that if the charge goes down very low you must use a high output charger. I have found that even some monster chargers will not work.


----------



## rwestley

A Blackberry charger should do the trick. It puts out more current than many USB chargers.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22129058
> 
> 
> It could also be the charger that you used for the first time. There have been reports that many usb chargers or computers do not do a good job of charging. I would suggest using an I-Pad. charger if you have one or something that can charge a i-pad or i-phone. I have several pairs of these glasses and I noticed the same problem not using a good charger. It seems that if the charge goes down very low you must use a high output charger. I have found that even some monster chargers will not work.



I am finding the opposite with my glasses that don't hold a charge as long. The lower current charger makes these glasses hold a charge longer. I plan to take two pair apart and compare the circuit. I have now three pair that don't hold a charge more than 3 weeks and three that will last twice that on one charge. Could it just be a battery issue? Some batteries hold a charge longer than another? I suspect I will find that dreaded wrong resistor value.


----------



## ShadeRF

I have a JVC RS45 and updated the emitter with the latest VIP firmware but i continually have to reset the polarity any time I change discs or turn the player on. Does anyone know how to get the setting to stick? Also anyone else with a JVC able to post their emitter settings?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ShadeRF*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22171474
> 
> 
> I have a JVC RS45 and updated the emitter with the latest VIP firmware but i continually have to reset the polarity any time I change discs or turn the player on. Does anyone know how to get the setting to stick? Also anyone else with a JVC able to post their emitter settings?



I wonder if the JVC is changing polarity and not the emitter. I don't use a JVC for 3D but never have to change the polarity in the emitter after I set it and its flipped from factory defaults too. I have not updated to the latest VIP emitter firmware either. Still using the previous VIP firmware from when they were released last year.


----------



## Toknowshita

Try the VIP firmware. It's worth a shot.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toknowshita*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22178564
> 
> 
> Try the VIP firmware. It's worth a shot.



That's what he is using! I have not upgraded because I have not had to change polarity. I have an extra emitter now so plan to put the new firmware on it and try it out soon.


----------



## Toknowshita

Excuse me. The way quotes are handled in the mobile app can make it difficult sometimes to discern who posted what. Excuse my mistake.


----------



## tonified

After reading thru the 26 pages of posts and the Max-3D manual, I still haven't fixed my problem, so at this point any feedback would be appreciated!



Has anyone been successful in powering the MV RF Emitter using a USB to AC adapter?


I have been using my MV glasses since last year with no problems, no firmware upgrades, no joystick tweaking or altering settings since initial set-up. I don't have a laptop in that room anymore, which is how I powered the emitter before.


I tried an HTC phone charger AC adapter, and an Apple one that's just a white cube with a USB input. Both turn on the emitter's LEDS, but to the running red lights like when it is searching for signal.


Some posts said the different USB connections can cause the glasses not to charge, so I'm wondering if this could cause an emitter issue. I don't have a Monster iSlimCharger (nor do I want one!).


Thanks for input!


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tonified*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22178958
> 
> 
> After reading thru the 26 pages of posts and the Max-3D manual, I still haven't fixed my problem, so at this point any feedback would be appreciated!
> 
> Has anyone been successful in powering the MV RF Emitter using a USB to AC adapter?
> 
> I have been using my MV glasses since last year with no problems, no firmware upgrades, no joystick tweaking or altering settings since initial set-up. I don't have a laptop in that room anymore, which is how I powered the emitter before.
> 
> I tried an HTC phone charger AC adapter, and an Apple one that's just a white cube with a USB input. Both turn on the emitter's LEDS, but to the running red lights like when it is searching for signal.
> 
> Some posts said the different USB connections can cause the glasses not to charge, so I'm wondering if this could cause an emitter issue. I don't have a Monster iSlimCharger (nor do I want one!).
> 
> Thanks for input!



Yes! I have powered the emitter via the USB connection. Its also powered by your PC when using the the calibration software. I am using a VIP 3D Theater and in the early days I didn't have a powerful enough power supply and had to power the emitter separately so I know it will work that way.


Don't forget you still need the emitter cable hooked up to the display for it to work.


Ron


----------



## Four-Eyes

How long are the cables included in the Monster emitter Kit? Long version:


I'm planning the setup of a home theater with Optoma GT750e (games) and Epson 6010 projectors boxed in the ceiling. The Optima GT750e contains the Optoma version of Monster 3D glasses and emitter. I'm trying to plan the placement of the emitter so it is hidden, yet accessible for update, etc. I plan to use the Monster emitter kit to convert the EPSON 6010 projector IR emitter to RF so both projectors use Monster and/or Optoma RF 3D glasses. Thanks!


----------



## JerryW

Seems to be about 3 feet long for the VESA to emitter cable and 6 feet for the usb/power cable, which is a generic USB cable, full size on one side and mini-usb (or micro-usb, I can never remember which is which)on the emitter side.


----------



## yadfgp

Quick question about these glasses. I'm surprised no one else has wondered this either through all the 100's of posts I've read on these glasses.


If you were to buy a pair of these glasses and it has the transmitter kit, you'll be set for 1 person. Now if you need/want to add more glasses, do you also need a transmitter kit for each newly added pair of glasses? Or just add another pair of glasses? Just seems like you can only buy the glasses with the transmitter kit. If you only actually need to use 1 transmitter kit, what do you do with all the extra transmitter kits? Just keep em for backups or throw them out?










Thanks


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yadfgp*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22199994
> 
> 
> Quick question about these glasses. I'm surprised no one else has wondered this either through all the 100's of posts I've read on these glasses.
> 
> If you were to buy a pair of these glasses and it has the transmitter kit, you'll be set for 1 person. Now if you need/want to add more glasses, do you also need a transmitter kit for each newly added pair of glasses? Or just add another pair of glasses? Just seems like you can only buy the glasses with the transmitter kit. If you only actually need to use 1 transmitter kit, what do you do with all the extra transmitter kits? Just keep em for backups or throw them out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



At the price these are selling for now you may as well buy the full kit. Another option is the Optima RF glasses which are the same glasses and pair fine with the Monster transmitter.


I had the same question when I bought my first pair. I think the Monster kit sells cheaper than the single Optima so it's a no brainer.


----------



## yadfgp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22200087
> 
> 
> At the price these are selling for now you may as well buy the full kit. Another option is the Optima RF glasses which are the same glasses and pair fine with the Monster transmitter.
> 
> I had the same question when I bought my first pair. I think the Monster kit sells cheaper than the single Optima so it's a no brainer.



Thanks adiidino.


That's what I had noticed. It seemed as though if you wanted just a pair of glasses, you had to spend quite a bit more than the whole kit!


----------



## marklin000

anyone ordered from the Monster site lately? been trying to place order online for the past 4 days and failed, could never advance to shipping address page after entering the billing info. Tried clearing cache and everything, still no avail...


BTW am ordering from Canada, but am using my sister's address in LA.. unless it knows my IP..


----------



## JerryW

A week ago I couldn't get it to accept any credit cards, kept coming back immediate with some sort of security error.

But then someone posted a 30% off code in the deals section for their ebay store and that worked fine.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yadfgp*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22199994
> 
> 
> Quick question about these glasses. I'm surprised no one else has wondered this either through all the 100's of posts I've read on these glasses.
> 
> If you were to buy a pair of these glasses and it has the transmitter kit, you'll be set for 1 person. Now if you need/want to add more glasses, do you also need a transmitter kit for each newly added pair of glasses? Or just add another pair of glasses? Just seems like you can only buy the glasses with the transmitter kit. If you only actually need to use 1 transmitter kit, what do you do with all the extra transmitter kits? Just keep em for backups or throw them out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




One transmitter will serve multiple pairs of glasses, save any extras for backup.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22129016
> 
> 
> My Optoma RF glasses seem to hold the charge fine. The Monsters I just got a few weeks ago and haven't been able to evaluate fully. Though one pair seemed to loose a charge very quickly but need to confirm this. I hope there isn't a hardware issue as someone mentioned (capacitor/resistor.) Is that why they were selling them so cheap?



Yeah my Monster glasses lose a charge quite fast. I need to take them to work and figure out what resister I need to change. I have three pair that last a couple months and still only blink slow when I turn them on. The others are stone dead.


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22207483
> 
> 
> Yeah my Monster glasses lose a charge quite fast. I need to take them to work and figure out what resister I need to change. I have three pair that last a couple months and still only blink slow when I turn them on. The others are stone dead.



Keep us posted on the details on the repair/problem. Someone mentioned a capacitor or resistor issue? Mine are only two months old but cannot believe Monster would be selling them with the defect known (maybe that is why they were blowing them out?) Has anyone tried to get replacements under warranty?


----------



## wardhealer

I haven't checked the board for several days so I don't know if this has been posted already but Monster is having a sale.

!0% off on orders of $100 and 15% on orders of $300 and 20% on $500


The regular price of the glasses from monster is $60 with free shipping for orders of $100

so 2 pairs will now cost $108 or $54 each.


I don't know the cost of these glasses (Bit Cauldron) when purchased from VIP3D or Optoma but I suspect that VIP is much higher and Optoma is slightly higher.


The coupon code at checkout is either 10offSummer 15offSummer or 20offSummer


The sale runs through July 31


I paid almost $200 a pair back in February 2011 and although I'm a bit upset over the rapid fall in prices, I don't regret the purchase

since my grandchildren have had 15 months of enjoyment from them. That, to me is priceless.


Considering what I've spent on 3D movies for them, the price of the glasses is a minor expense.


I just purchased 2 more pairs because the grandkids are young and chances are high that there will eventually be breakage.


----------



## Theologian

I have a newbie question please excuse my ignorance:

Does the transmitter need both the usb power cable and the vesa port cable if it's connected to the TV's vesa port? It seems that the vesa port carries a 5 volt charge already.


I'm new to this and the glasses are still in transit; so I just want to see what would be needed for my setup.


Thank you so much.


----------



## Wesley Hester

I don't believe it does. USB supplies power if you need to use the IR to RF receiver and transmitter without plugging it into vesa port. I'm using the USB cable because I am using the IR to RF receiver taped to the front of an external IR emitter that is connected to the vesa port. This is so I can use IR and RF glasses at the same time. At least until I can get more RF glasses and go RF exclusively.


----------



## Theologian

Thank you for your reply, Wesley.


But what if it's physically plugged into VESA, not just receiving the ir signal? Does it need USB power then?


----------



## rwestley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Theologian*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22237286
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply, Wesley.
> 
> But what if it's physically plugged into VESA, not just receiving the ir signal? Does it need USB power then?



If you have a VESA port you do not need the external USB power. The USB power must be used if you use the IR setup.


----------



## Theologian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22237984
> 
> 
> If you have a VESA port you do not need the external USB power. The USB power must be used if you use the IR setup.



Thank you rwestley. That's what I need to know


----------



## Wesley Hester

Sorry

*I don't believe it does.* USB supplies power if you need to use the IR to RF receiver and transmitter without plugging it into vesa port. *I'm using the USB cable because* I am using the IR to RF receiver taped to the front of an external IR emitter that is connected to the vesa port. This is so I can use IR and RF glasses at the same time. At least until I can get more RF glasses and go RF exclusively.


Direct Link to the Monster Site's PDF Manual: CLICK HERE from the PRODUCT PAGE .


Check out part 4 Installation & Setup starting at page 15.


----------



## Rolls-Royce

The USB cable is also used if you want to use the PC app to adjust duty cycle and delay for the glasses instead of the transmitter's joystick. MUCH easier!


----------



## Wesley Hester

...and to update the firmware of the joystick and then, in turn the glasses. All of which are covered in the manual.


Direct Link to the Monster Site's PDF Manual: CLICK HERE from the PRODUCT PAGE .


----------



## franakin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rwestley*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/660#post_22017228
> 
> 
> The Xpands are not made by Bit Caldron and are different from the MV3d glasses. The Xpands work with IR not RF.


Excuse me, but just to be sure and not screw up the MV3D glasses : this new VIP firmware works with both the Xpand and the Monstervision glasses ?


----------



## rwestley

Incorrect the VIP firmware only works with the Bit Caldron, Optoma, & MV glasses. The Xpand glasses use their own firmware.


----------



## Ewingr

Been looking for the Monstervision glasses. When I checked at B&H, the site says that 'the manufacturer has discontinued' the glasses.


Anyone know about that? Maybe an updated model on the way?


----------



## enthuzist




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22291215
> 
> 
> Been looking for the Monstervision glasses. When I checked at B&H, the site says that 'the manufacturer has discontinued' the glasses.
> 
> Anyone know about that? Maybe an updated model on the way?



See post #781.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enthuzist*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22291484
> 
> 
> See post #781.



Yes I have seen that. Just because they have them on their site to sell does not necessarily mean that


----------



## enthuzist




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22292093
> 
> 
> Yes I have seen that. Just because they have them on their site to sell does not necessarily mean that



Yes, they are discontinued and Monster has no known plans of a new version per the Monster Rep. The glasses come with a 90 day warranty, but you can get support for the life of the glasses per Monster.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22209976
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on the details on the repair/problem. Someone mentioned a capacitor or resistor issue? Mine are only two months old but cannot believe Monster would be selling them with the defect known (maybe that is why they were blowing them out?) Has anyone tried to get replacements under warranty?



Decided to take apart an Optima pair and a Monster pair to compare. The Optomas hold a charge for going on three months right now. Even used them a few times. The newer Monsters I got cheap die in two weeks with no use. The battery itself has a small circuit board attached to it but it is sealed up although may just be several layers of tape. I decided to swap batteries between the two glasses and charge them. Let's see if the Monsters hold a charge and the Optoma's go dead. If so its the battery circuit board that is the problem. If both glasses behave as they did in the past I will take the two pair to work where I have better equipment to evaluate both main circuit boards under a magnifier. I can measure caps as well at work. The circuit is too small to work on at home with my 49 year old eyes.


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22301145
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22209976
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on the details on the repair/problem. Someone mentioned a capacitor or resistor issue? Mine are only two months old but cannot believe Monster would be selling them with the defect known (maybe that is why they were blowing them out?) Has anyone tried to get replacements under warranty?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to take apart an Optima pair and a Monster pair to compare. The Optomas hold a charge for going on three months right now. Even used them a few times. The newer Monsters I got cheap die in two weeks with no use. The battery itself has a small circuit board attached to it but it is sealed up although may just be several layers of tape. I decided to swap batteries between the two glasses and charge them. Let's see if the Monsters hold a charge and the Optoma's go dead. If so its the battery circuit board that is the problem. If both glasses behave as they did in the past I will take the two pair to work where I have better equipment to evaluate both main circuit boards under a magnifier. I can measure caps as well at work. The circuit is too small to work on at home with my 49 year old eyes.
Click to expand...

Interested in the results.



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22301353
> 
> 
> Interested in the results.
> 
> Max



They both fully charged in the same amount of time and powering both up the blinking at the beginning is the same speed. Will check in a few days to see if its still the same Bink speed.


----------



## enthuzist

Okay, I have sat and read all 790 posts in this thread. I now have a full and better understanding of the BC family of 3D RF glasses. I feel much better now to invest in them. I will go with the MV initially due to price and update to the VIP FW as stated here. BTW I will be using them with a Mits WD-92840/842 if anyone has any more suggestions for this setup. I will report back when everything arrives and is setup. Thank you all for the knowledge.

*Update:* I went through the MV Oulet Store front vs the direct link and it states that the pairs sold are "refurbished" and not new. Therefore, I guess I'm ordering from Amazon instead. Oh well.


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22301145
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/750#post_22209976
> 
> 
> Keep us posted on the details on the repair/problem. Someone mentioned a capacitor or resistor issue? Mine are only two months old but cannot believe Monster would be selling them with the defect known (maybe that is why they were blowing them out?) Has anyone tried to get replacements under warranty?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to take apart an Optima pair and a Monster pair to compare. The Optomas hold a charge for going on three months right now. Even used them a few times. The newer Monsters I got cheap die in two weeks with no use. The battery itself has a small circuit board attached to it but it is sealed up although may just be several layers of tape. I decided to swap batteries between the two glasses and charge them. Let's see if the Monsters hold a charge and the Optoma's go dead. If so its the battery circuit board that is the problem. If both glasses behave as they did in the past I will take the two pair to work where I have better equipment to evaluate both main circuit boards under a magnifier. I can measure caps as well at work. The circuit is too small to work on at home with my 49 year old eyes.
Click to expand...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22301763
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22301353
> 
> 
> Interested in the results.
> 
> Max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They both fully charged in the same amount of time and powering both up the blinking at the beginning is the same speed. Will check in a few days to see if its still the same Bink speed.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't happen to have taken any photos of the battery and anything else while it was open did you?



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22302662
> 
> 
> Wouldn't happen to have taken any photos of the battery and anything else while it was open did you?
> 
> Max



No I did not. Everything is very tiny and the cover doesn't come off that I can tell. The battery I can take a picture of next time I open them up. Eventually I may have to remove the circuit board in the glasses and at that time I can take some pictures. For now I just want to see if the battery is the problem.


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22303060
> 
> 
> No I did not. Everything is very tiny and the cover doesn't come off that I can tell. The battery I can take a picture of next time I open them up. Eventually I may have to remove the circuit board in the glasses and at that time I can take some pictures. For now I just want to see if the battery is the problem.


Interested in the results...but I'm shipping my two pairs of glasses back to Monster for 'warranty' repair/replacement/refund (note my documentation says one year warranty period.) Neither seems to hold a charge for over a week or so and that is completely unacceptable. Also having problems with the power on button. As mentioned the Optoma glasses perform much, much better in this regard.


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22303060
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22302662
> 
> 
> Wouldn't happen to have taken any photos of the battery and anything else while it was open did you?
> 
> Max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I did not. Everything is very tiny and the cover doesn't come off that I can tell. The battery I can take a picture of next time I open them up. Eventually I may have to remove the circuit board in the glasses and at that time I can take some pictures. For now I just want to see if the battery is the problem.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. If it IS the battery, maybe we can find an easy fix/replacement.



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22304043
> 
> 
> Interested in the results...but I'm shipping my two pairs of glasses back to Monster for 'warranty' repair/replacement/refund (note my documentation says one year warranty period.) Neither seems to hold a charge for over a week or so and that is completely unacceptable. Also having problems with the power on button. As mentioned the Optoma glasses perform much, much better in this regard.



Both glasses are identical! Same rev levels on the circuit boards too! If I can fix mine changing a resistor I'll be happy. The batteries look identical but the printing on them is a little different. The same but one has bolder print than the other so a different batch.


----------



## Ewingr

Is it a consensus that generally, the Monster glasses do not maintain a charge, or is it more of just a few? I've seen quite a few folks complaining about it.

ite


----------



## Bigham16

I have 4 pairs a little over 8 months old and 2 pairs a month old and all 6 have buzzed from the beginning. It is really distracting. Going to call Monster but doesn't look like it will help from reading this thread. Anybody know of a fix?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonmichaelh*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/690#post_22022503
> 
> 
> Anyone notice a buzzing sound coming from their glasses? It was briefly mentioned by some posters when this thread was started, but not much said after that.
> 
> 
> 
> The buzz sound is only noticable during quiet scenes of movies (or games).
> 
> 
> 
> -Could you hear buzzing from your glasses when they were new?
> 
> 
> -Did age make them buzz more/louder?
> 
> 
> -Anyone know of a fix?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigham16*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22307288
> 
> 
> I have 4 pairs a little over 8 months old and 2 pairs a month old and all 6 have buzzed from the beginning. It is really distracting. Going to call Monster but doesn't look like it will help from reading this thread. Anybody know of a fix?



My system is loud enough watching a movie I never notice it but I have heard it. Didn't think it was a problem. Not loud enough to distract from the movie I guess.


----------



## Ronomy

Update 1: after three days and turning them on to check the blinking once a day and both still only have three short slow blinks for battery status! So no change yet!


----------



## Ronomy

Update 2: Still no change in charge status on both glasses after the battery swap. Both still blinking full charge after a week.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22307782
> 
> 
> My system is loud enough watching a movie I never notice it but I have heard it. Didn't think it was a problem. Not loud enough to distract from the movie I guess.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22318135
> 
> 
> Update 2: Still no change in charge status on both glasses after the battery swap. Both still blinking full charge after a week.



Does the Optomia glasses you have make the same faint sound as the Monsters?


I was going to purchase Monster, but given these facts I'm reading:

Discontinued by Monster
Buzzing sound
Poor battery life


I'm about to give up on getting Monster. Although from what I find, it appears that the RF emitter is expensive compared to Monster. I might consider getting one pair of refurbished Monster just to get the emitter.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22318289
> 
> 
> Does the Optomia glasses you have make the same faint sound as the Monsters?
> 
> I was going to purchase Monster, but given these facts I'm reading:
> Discontinued by Monster
> Buzzing sound
> Poor battery life
> 
> I'm about to give up on getting Monster. Although from what I find, it appears that the RF emitter is expensive compared to Monster. I might consider getting one pair of refurbished Monster just to get the emitter.



Monsters, Optima and VIP are all the same Bit Cauldron BC5000 glasses. I have samples of all three. The buzz is the same on all of them. Never really notice it while watching a movie. Maybe some are louder than others but my 6 pair are all the same. Not an issue to me.


FYI. There is a new design out for these glasses! Still called BC5000 I think.


Strange I am not seeing the two glasses battery levels change yet. Almost like swapping the batteries solved the problem.


----------



## Ewingr

Thanks for that feedback.


I wonder what the difference is in the new design. Naturally, if there is a new design, then that leaves me feeling like I should get whatever brand is the new design. I don't suspect there is any way to know that though.


Still tempted to get at least one of the Monstervision, just because the transmitter comes with it.


I didn't find many sites with the VIP, but did find one site, Curt Palm theater, that is selling the new version of the VIP.


----------



## enthuzist

Has anyone found a definitive powered USB hub that can properly and fully charge multiple (9 in my case) glasses at once? Keep in mind the minimum power rating required and the inconsistencies of many hubs as discussed in this thread.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22319350
> 
> 
> Thanks for that feedback.
> 
> I wonder what the difference is in the new design. Naturally, if there is a new design, then that leaves me feeling like I should get whatever brand is the new design. I don't suspect there is any way to know that though.
> 
> Still tempted to get at least one of the Monstervision, just because the transmitter comes with it.
> 
> I didn't find many sites with the VIP, but did find one site, Curt Palm theater, that is selling the new version of the VIP.



They added polarity inversion using the power button so that you don't need to get up and go to the joystick to change it. The glasses might be more comfortable too but have not seen anybody post these results yet.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22320325
> 
> 
> They added polarity inversion using the power button so that you don't need to get up and go to the joystick to change it. The glasses might be more comfortable too but have not seen anybody post these results yet.


y


Interesting. I don't know how often a person would need to do that...but seems to me that would be a feature people would want


----------



## mikemav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22320325
> 
> 
> They added polarity inversion using the power button so that you don't need to get up and go to the joystick to change it. The glasses might be more comfortable too but have not seen anybody post these results yet.


Who is selling this version, and do the glasses-only support the original dongle (with the new polarity switching on the glasses?) Sorry if i missed this info...


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22320325
> 
> 
> They added polarity inversion using the power button so that you don't need to get up and go to the joystick to change it. The glasses might be more comfortable too but have not seen anybody post these results yet.



When / Why would a person need to change polarity?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemav*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22321681
> 
> 
> Who is selling this version, and do the glasses-only support the original dongle (with the new polarity switching on the glasses?) Sorry if i missed this info...



I have not done an extensive search, but on my first limited search, I found them here .


I'm still contemplating getting one of the inexpensive pair of MOnstervisions, which come with the emitter. I think that would cost about the same as the VIP emitter only, maybe a little more,


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/780#post_22322287
> 
> 
> When / Why would a person need to change polarity?
> 
> ,



Sometimes the sync can start on the other eye and it will need to be swapped in the dongle. They moved this ability to the glasses. It happens ocassionally. I usually just change the channel back to 2D then back to 3D and its back in sync. Same with bluray. I stop then restart. Fixes it easy enough for me.


----------



## Ewingr

Cool. Thanks for that.


I just ordered a pair of Monstervisions. Goow ing to see how it goes. I may need to order the external emitter. Once I get something going, I'll order more glasses.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22325410
> 
> 
> Cool. Thanks for that.
> 
> I just ordered a pair of Monstervisions. Goow ing to see how it goes. I may need to order the external emitter. Once I get something going, I'll order more glasses.



Didn't you order with the emitter? You'll need a charger too...use an old cell phone charger. They work fine for me!


----------



## Ewingr

I ordered with the RF emitter, yes. But my unit is mounted in a soffit, and I'm not sure that the Monster RF unit will be able to pick up the IR signal. I'll mount it in the soffit too, but below the unit. I'm told the Ir for the 3d does not come out of the back IR port.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22325820
> 
> 
> I ordered with the RF emitter, yes. But my unit is mounted in a soffit, and I'm not sure that the Monster RF unit will be able to pick up the IR signal. I'll mount it in the soffit too, but below the unit. I'm told the Ir for the 3d does not come out of the back IR port.



I don't use the IR to RF converter. I just plug the RF emitter into the sync port. I don't use IR for 3D sync.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22326570
> 
> 
> I don't use the IR to RF converter. I just plug the RF emitter into the sync port. I don't use IR for 3D sync.



I,m thinking you are using a different projector than I am. I have an Epson 5010e. I see no port called a "sync port". I do have an external 3D IR port, which is to use the 3D external IR emitter.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328227
> 
> 
> I,m thinking you are using a different projector than I am. I have an Epson 5010e. I see no port called a "sync port". I do have an external 3D IR port, which is to use the 3D external IR emitter.



Right! You should be able to replace your IR emitter with the RF emitter. Unless you want to use both ir and ref glasses.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328526
> 
> 
> Right! You should be able to replace your IR emitter with the RF emitter. Unless you want to use both ir and ref glasses.



So, it sounds like you are saying I can plug the Monstervision emitter into the external port for IR. I'll go over to the Epson Glasses thread and ask.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328743
> 
> 
> So, it sounds like you are saying I can plug the Monstervision emitter into the external port for IR. I'll go over to the Epson Glasses thread and ask.



If it has the standard mini din port, yes!


----------



## Ewingr

No. It is an RF45, and I've read that to extend the IR emitter, you use Cat5 cable.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328814
> 
> 
> No. It is an RF45, and I've read that to extend the IR emitter, you use Cat5 cable.



Doesn't look like it will work that way unless you can get a schematic of the output. It is an RJ45. So where is the internal emitter output on the projector?


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328823
> 
> 
> Doesn't look like it will work that way unless you can get a schematic of the output. It is an RJ45. So where is the internal emitter output on the projector?



Its on the front. To the right of the lens, if looking at the lens. There'll be no room to put the the RF module in front if it, as it is in a soffit. (Working on ventilation now for cooling).


I'm going to initially try, and expect to fail, by putting the emitter under it, and maybe bouncing the signal, it will work. Otherwise, I need to get an Epson External emitter and hook to that port. Just another $80, but hope I don't need to spend it.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328833
> 
> 
> Its on the front. To the right of the lens, if looking at the lens. There'll be no room to put the the RF module in front if it, as it is in a soffit. (Working on ventilation now for cooling).
> 
> I'm going to initially try, and expect to fail, by putting the emitter under it, and maybe bouncing the signal, it will work. Otherwise, I need to get an Epson External emitter and hook to that port. Just another $80, but hope I don't need to spend it.



Always something in the way...its never always easy.


Good luck!


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22328863
> 
> 
> Always something in the way...its never always easy.
> 
> Good luck!



Ain't that the truth?


I'll post how it goes.


----------



## Ronomy

Update 3: 10 days since I charged both glasses after the battery swap and both still showing a full charge!


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22331976
> 
> 
> Update 3: 10 days since I charged both glasses after the battery swap and both still showing a full charge!



Those things seem determined to mess with you. But at least in a good way


----------



## Ronomy

Update 4: finally the newer monster glasses are quickly flashing 6 times to the Optima 3 slow flashes. So the battery swap says the problem is the circuit board in the Monster glasses. I will bring both to work and try to figure out what is different.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22341464
> 
> 
> Update 4: finally the newer monster glasses are quickly flashing 6 times to the Optima 3 slow flashes. So the battery swap says the problem is the circuit board in the Monster glasses. I will bring both to work and try to figure out what is different.



Good Luck. Let's see, how many days is that...and have you used the glasses?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22341745
> 
> 
> Good Luck. Let's see, how many days is that...and have you used the glasses?



Only powered on both pair to check battery levels. Its been 13 days.


I tried contacting Bit Cauldron and an auto response came to me from the VP of the company saying my response was received but he never replied back about where the wrong component is.


----------



## Ewingr

Just got my first pair Monster's. I'm not sure they are working right.


I had a hard time getting them going, likely due to the learning curve. But I finally did. but here is what I experienced now:


Played the final bit of a movie (after not watching much while trying to get it working/synched, etc). So I wanted to start it over. I stopped the movie, red light on glasses started flashing. Restarted it, selected to play in 3D. Green lights on the controller are solid, and all lit. But the glasses just keeps flashing red, and not picking up.


Then after a while the light stopped. So I pressed the button and turned them back on, and they synched. Started watching movie, and in about 5 min, they started blinking again.


Any suggestions or thoughts?


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22342439
> 
> 
> Just got my first pair Monster's. I'm not sure they are working right.
> 
> I had a hard time getting them going, likely due to the learning curve. But I finally did. but here is what I experienced now:
> 
> Played the final bit of a movie (after not watching much while trying to get it working/synched, etc). So I wanted to start it over. I stopped the movie, red light on glasses started flashing. Restarted it, selected to play in 3D. Green lights on the controller are solid, and all lit. But the glasses just keeps flashing red, and not picking up.
> 
> Then after a while the light stopped. So I pressed the button and turned them back on, and they synched. Started watching movie, and in about 5 min, they started blinking again.
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts?



Sounds like the IR is not being picked up to well from the projector.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22344012
> 
> 
> Sounds like the IR is not being picked up to well from the projector.



That isn't teh case. The device to pick it up is taped right to the front of the projector; all led indicators are green.


After posting above: the glasses went off, I turned them back on, and they stayed hooked up all the way through the movie.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22344126
> 
> 
> That isn't teh case. The device to pick it up is taped right to the front of the projector; all led indicators are green.
> 
> After posting above: the glasses went off, I turned them back on, and they stayed hooked up all the way through the movie.



I would move it around a little if it keeps happening. Could be some weird reflection interfering with it. Also keep the rf emitter away from the projector...maybe the projector is emitting EMI that is interfering. Just moving the rf emitter may solve the intermittent problem.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22344194
> 
> 
> I would move it around a little if it keeps happening. Could be some weird reflection interfering with it. Also keep the rf emitter away from the projector...maybe the projector is emitting EMI that is interfering. Just moving the rf emitter may solve the intermittent problem.



Ok. If it continues, I'll try moving it. I put it on the projector with sticky tape because the instructions said that is thte best thing to do to maintain a solid connection.


----------



## mikemav

Also the IR receiver plug is VERY hard to get fully seated in the RF receiver jack. Many have reported inserting it almost thinking they were going to break something for the force required. Be careful though, but check that to be sure it's fully in.


----------



## Ewingr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikemav*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22345072
> 
> 
> Also the IR receiver plug is VERY hard to get fully seated in the RF receiver jack. Many have reported inserting it almost thinking they were going to break something for the force required. Be careful though, but check that to be sure it's fully in.



That is true. Seems like it doesn't belong in that port.


What I am finding is that if I change from watching a Blue Ray to Dish; there is several seconds of pause while it all switches over via the Onkyo receiver. During that few seconds, the glasses lose 3D connection (even if I have the projector to do 2D-3D conversion). They seem to not be able to re-establish connection until they go off. So, after 30 seconds or so the flashing stops, meaning the glasses are off, and I can turn them back on and it will hook up.


I am also finding the glasses difficult to even turn on. Seems as though I have to press the button a specific way. I've seen complaints about the button being hard to push. But I think you need to press in a specific area on the button. At least that is what it seems like. Sometimes I have to try multiple presses in different ways (ie different point of pressure; different length of press) before the come on. Based on the complaints I've seen, I am presuming this is pretty much normal for the Monsters.


I'm thinking I should look into some other brands. I like the RF though, so I guess that leaves VIP (hardly anybody sells these), and Optoma.


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22341464
> 
> 
> Update 4: finally the newer monster glasses are quickly flashing 6 times to the Optima 3 slow flashes. So the battery swap says the problem is the circuit board in the Monster glasses. I will bring both to work and try to figure out what is different.



I did try measuring components on the boards and the device I used did not point to any one component. The circuit itself changes the values too much to be able to find the exact component. I do see changes between the two. I would have to pull components off the cards and compare. I may still try a couple that I suspect might be at fault.


----------



## djbluemax1

There was mention of a resistor with the wrong value. Anything look like it might be the culprit?



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22352194
> 
> 
> There was mention of a resistor with the wrong value. Anything look like it might be the culprit?
> 
> Max



That's what I originally heard too but then someone said it was a Cap. I see two caps that are a different color between the two boards. I have an auto measuring device that does resistance and capacitance. The numbers were different but different in a lot of places.


Next chance I have I will try pulling a couple resistors near what looks like the charging circuit or regulator. I emailed the VP of Bit Cauldron who I had spoken to in the past but he isn't responding to me.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronomy*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22352238
> 
> 
> That's what I originally heard too but then someone said it was a Cap. I see two caps that are a different color between the two boards. I have an auto measuring device that does resistance and capacitance. The numbers were different but different in a lot of places.
> 
> Next chance I have I will try pulling a couple resistors near what looks like the charging circuit or regulator. I emailed the VP of Bit Cauldron who I had spoken to in the past but he isn't responding to me.




When I spoke to the primary engineer at BC who was working on that issue back then, he reported there was an incorrect value resistor installed in the charging circuit. He doesn't answer his emails this year, so I assume he is no longer there.


----------



## djbluemax1

BTW Ronomy,


Any photos of the innards of the glasses?



Max


----------



## Ronomy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/810#post_22357638
> 
> 
> BTW Ronomy,
> 
> Any photos of the innards of the glasses?
> 
> Max



No I didn't take any but the ribbon cable is very short so not easy to see under the side panel and I can't figure out how to get the pin out of the ear paddle to allow removal of the cover. So getting a good picture will not be easy. I have been busy in work the last few days and not any time to work on it. I will focus on the resistors on the charge circuit and see what I can find. They are on the underside of the board.


----------



## Ewingr

Question about 3d Max's and losing signal.


I watched Captain America tonight, which is a conversion, and a lot of it could be watched without glasses fine. The pair of glasses I was wearing seemed to lose signal: started flashing the red light. Would not connect back up unless think the pressed the on button while it was flashing, in which case it would hook back up. After that happening a couple times, I tried a different pair, and it did not happen.


Curious what your thoughts are related to this type of experience.


BTW...I think the pair that started flashing, which I got this week, may have been returns or refurbs. They were not shrink wrapped. I'm planning on returning them. but still curious about this type of experience.


----------



## Ronomy

I have never had one lose sync like that. Best to return it ASAP.


----------



## Erik C. Johnson

I just wanted to double check and see if these will work in any way with the Samsung 2011 "D" Series, or Panasonic 2012 Plasmas. I know that the Samsung ones switched from IR to Bluetooth that year and I simply can not find a direct answer if it will work with those displays.


----------



## Toknowshita

The RF is proprietary. It is not compatible with BT.


----------



## GabrielKnight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombie10k*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/150#post_20963040
> 
> 
> 
> it's a shame there is no way to adjust in real time, but it is nice they put in the switch left/right lense for those having issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using these on my Sony HW30 projector and have been able to tune ghosting to nearly non-existence.




Pleeeease can you let me know which settings worked for you?

I imported 6 pairs of Monster glasses from the US to UK for my Sony HW30 after reading how well you got on with the same setup, but I'm struggling to find the best settings myself.


----------



## Toknowshita

I also have a HW30 and use the MV glasses.


I have found that the amount of ghosting visible through the glasses greatly depends on the pitch of the glasses in relation to the screen. IOW if the lenses surface is parallel to the screen surface and the glasses have been well tuned you should be able to eliminate most all the crosstalk. But if you tend to watch with a lot of head tilt so the lenses are not parallel to screen the glasses LCD when closed allow much more light through so crosstalk is more visible. So I either keep my head more straight on at the screen or I tilt the glasses a little forward on my head.


----------



## Wesley Hester




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toknowshita*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/840#post_22436312
> 
> 
> I also have a HW30 and use the MV glasses.
> 
> I have found that the amount of ghosting visible through the glasses greatly depends on the pitch of the glasses in relation to the screen. IOW if the lenses surface is parallel to the screen surface and the glasses have been well tuned you should be able to eliminate most all the crosstalk. But if you tend to watch with a lot of head tilt so the lenses are not parallel to screen the glasses LCD when closed allow much more light through so crosstalk is more visible. So I either keep my head more straight on at the screen or I tilt the glasses a little forward on my head.



I can also confirm this. Subtle, not a deal breaker but it is there.


----------



## GabrielKnight

OK, that's useful to know, thanks.


Would either of you be able to share the settings you use please, both on the MVs and the HW30, or do you just use the defaults?


I've tried different settings but the picture I see has so much crosstalk I wonder if something's wrong with my projector - I can't get anywhere near zombie's results - I can see the main picture and the same picture to the left / right, about 20% as bright. I'm now even thinking of trying out different cables and considering buying a dedicated 3D bluray player rather than relying on the PS3, but can't see it making much difference.


Or maybe my eyes are just particularly sensitive to crosstalk?


----------



## Toknowshita

1st, have you used the Sony glasses to confirm the 3D is working?


2nd, if you have confirmed #1, how strong is the IR signal reception at your RF converter?


----------



## GabrielKnight

Yes, I have the Sony glasses too and see exactly the same crosstalk. From Zombie's posts, I thought the MVs would improve things, but can't find good settings.


The IR signal at the RF convertor shows at 100% (5 LEDs or something?) My convertor sits right next to the IR transmitter.


----------



## CDJayRFU

Anyone else swapped their MV3D glasses for the new 3dNow! model (3dn-6000)? I shipped 4 MV3D kits from the States, to the UK, when I got my VW95ES late last year, and two of them failed to hold charge. Recently I screened a 3d movie with some friends recently and ended up running in and out attempting to charge and sync the MV3D glasses which spoiled things somewhat, which ultimately triggered me ordering 4 (+emitter) of the new model.


So far, no issues. Haven't put the newest emitter in or had a tweak (as they are backward compatible, my old emitter which I setup using a laptop works fine w/ the new glasses once paired) so I'll focus on the glasses themselves. They are noticeably lighter, all of them charge properly and there is no buzzing when they are on. The charging port is now on the top of the glasses, with the led and power button on the bottom right. Holding the power button for 2 seconds when they are already on switches polarity.


So far, I'm very happy with my purchase. It fixed my problems, with minimal upheaval, and has some fringe benefits as noticed.


I'll report back once I've tried/tweaked the new emitter and used the glasses a bit more.


CDJay


----------



## jtgrunden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CDJayRFU*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/840#post_22445504
> 
> 
> Anyone else swapped their MV3D glasses for the new 3dNow! model (3dn-6000)? I shipped 4 MV3D kits from the States, to the UK, when I got my VW95ES late last year, and two of them failed to hold charge. Recently I screened a 3d movie with some friends recently and ended up running in and out attempting to charge and sync the MV3D glasses which spoiled things somewhat, which ultimately triggered me ordering 4 (+emitter) of the new model.
> 
> So far, no issues. Haven't put the newest emitter in or had a tweak (as they are backward compatible, my old emitter which I setup using a laptop works fine w/ the new glasses once paired) so I'll focus on the glasses themselves. They are noticeably lighter, all of them charge properly and there is no buzzing when they are on. The charging port is now on the top of the glasses, with the led and power button on the bottom right. Holding the power button for 2 seconds when they are already on switches polarity.
> 
> So far, I'm very happy with my purchase. It fixed my problems, with minimal upheaval, and has some fringe benefits as noticed.
> 
> I'll report back once I've tried/tweaked the new emitter and used the glasses a bit more.
> 
> CDJay



CDJay,

Is there some type of swap program or did you just go any buy the new 3dNow Glasses? I'm heavily invested in these MV3D glasses (own 9 pairs because of the positive reviews here) and none of them hold a charge for any length of time. There was some investigation going on for a while in this thread but it appears to have died. I'm very happy with the glasses comfort and performance but this power issue is inexcuseable To me it seems more like a power leak when the glasses are turned off as opposed to a charging issue since the lights all indicate a full charge with the slow hearbeat. I'm either going to have to rig up a 9 station power charging setup so they are always ready to go or find another solution. If anyone has any additional input on this power issue I would be very thankful if you'd share it.


----------



## browerjs

Has anyone been able to essentially eliminate ghosting from on screen text/menus with the MV3Ds? I watched Captain America this weekend and while the movie itself was pretty much free from ghosting on my HW30, when there was text saying the date/location of the scene, the ghosting was terrible.


----------



## CDJayRFU

I'm afraid I just purchased 4 new ones, I'll keep the 2 that hold charge as spares in case something happens to the new ones.


9 is a lot, maybe keep an eye on user reports over the next few months and see if you think it's worth the switch. I seem to remember that there was an 8 + emitter bundle wherever I got it from, I'll dig it up if you want










CDJay


----------



## rjyap




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CDJayRFU*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/840#post_22445504
> 
> 
> Anyone else swapped their MV3D glasses for the new 3dNow! model (3dn-6000)? I shipped 4 MV3D kits from the States, to the UK, when I got my VW95ES late last year, and two of them failed to hold charge. Recently I screened a 3d movie with some friends recently and ended up running in and out attempting to charge and sync the MV3D glasses which spoiled things somewhat, which ultimately triggered me ordering 4 (+emitter) of the new model.
> 
> So far, no issues. Haven't put the newest emitter in or had a tweak (as they are backward compatible, my old emitter which I setup using a laptop works fine w/ the new glasses once paired) so I'll focus on the glasses themselves. They are noticeably lighter, all of them charge properly and there is no buzzing when they are on. The charging port is now on the top of the glasses, with the led and power button on the bottom right. Holding the power button for 2 seconds when they are already on switches polarity.
> 
> So far, I'm very happy with my purchase. It fixed my problems, with minimal upheaval, and has some fringe benefits as noticed.
> 
> I'll report back once I've tried/tweaked the new emitter and used the glasses a bit more.
> 
> CDJay



Do you notice any color shift on the new glasses comparing top to bottom part of the glasses. I find this is important as it shift the color balance.


----------



## CDJayRFU

I'll watch Prometheus on Monday and check for it. I'm actually slightly off axis by default as my screen isn't head on, so it'll be easy to check!


I watched it at the cinema and was too close to the screen, I had horrible red colour fringing on either side. So it's bound to be a lot better, no matter what!










CDJay


----------



## rjyap

Great. I'm getting the Optoma HD8300 soon so hopefully I can get some feedback regarding the latest RF glasses compare to DLP Link glasses. I owned 1 pair of ZD201 and 3 pairs of UltraClear DLP glasses. My favourite is ZD201 as the glasses doesn't had color shift issue as UC glasses plus the tint is neutral compare to UC that is green tinted.


----------



## rjyap

I check Amazon and found out Optoma is launching a new RF 3D glasses, OPTOMA TECHNOLOGY BG-ZF2100GLS Active Shutter 3D-RF Glasses which look similar 3DNow 3dn-6000 glasses. Any place to get a bundle deal of 4 or more glasses?


----------



## duh

Im hoping someone can answer this for me. I have a few pair of the Optoma BG-3DRFGLASSES that I use with my Optoma GT750 Projector.


Im in the market for a new TV and would like to be able to use the Optoma 3D Glasses with it. If I were to buy a TC-P60ST50, Samsung PN60E550, or LG 60PM6700 would I be able to use the Optoma 3D glasses I have with these sets? Each set says they use RF.


Thanks for the help!


----------



## GEP

Most likely NO. If Optoma uses the same as Monster, then the RF is a Zigbee RF format. Pansonic and Samsung use a Bluetooth RF format and it is not the same. Kind of like AM and FM RF for broadcast. The two are not the same, however you can get a radio that can receive both. You cannot get glasses the receive both.


----------



## rjyap

CDJay, any update comparing the new 3DNow glasses to MV glasses?


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

Hey guys,


I finally bit the bullet and bought 3 pairs of the MonsterVision Max 3D glasses for my Sony VPL-HW30ES projector. I also had a gentleman on these forums make a custom cable that allows the MonsterVision RF module hook directly into the 3D port on the Sony projector (thereby bypassing the need for the stock Sony IR Emitter, and also allowing the Sony projector to provide direct power to the RF module).


My question is simple: right out of the box are these glasses good to go for just casual 3D use? I have my projector calibrated for 2D viewing, so I am merely going to use 3D for certain movies when I want to have some novelty fun (like Avatar and Avengers). Viewing won't be picture critical. Will the stock settings of the Monster glasses be good right out of box or is there recommended adjustments I should make to the glasses?


Thanks!


----------



## jtgrunden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/840#post_22489836
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and bought 3 pairs of the MonsterVision Max 3D glasses for my Sony VPL-HW30ES projector. I also had a gentleman on these forums make a custom cable that allows the MonsterVision RF module hook directly into the 3D port on the Sony projector (thereby bypassing the need for the stock Sony IR Emitter, and also allowing the Sony projector to provide direct power to the RF module).
> 
> My question is simple: right out of the box are these glasses good to go for just casual 3D use? I have my projector calibrated for 2D viewing, so I am merely going to use 3D for certain movies when I want to have some novelty fun (like Avatar and Avengers). Viewing won't be picture critical. Will the stock settings of the Monster glasses be good right out of box or is there recommended adjustments I should make to the glasses?
> 
> Thanks!



I've had pretty good luck with mine right out of the box. A few movies have exhibited some ghosting, The Lorax being the worst so far. I havent taken the time to try and tweak them yet but will sometime in the future. I know to eliminate ghosting you need to shorten the duration which means loss of light so I haven't been too anxious.

In my case I'm using Sony glasses (the small BR50's) since they fit my daughter better along with the MV's but have not had any trouble with the MV receiver picking up the signal. The only issue I had there was dealing with all the IR flooding the room killing my remote system so I've had to make the move to RF, a problem you won't have to deal with.

The main problem with the Monster Vision glasses is there horrible shelf time between charges. There were some members looking into this a few posts back but seem to have lost interest. I've given up and ordered a Blackberry USB charger for each pair of glasses I have (9) and will most likely rig up a timer to turn a power strip on and off at some interval I determine to keep them ready to go. It stinks when you have people over and can't find enough charged glasses or worse they begin to die in the middle of the movie. it's ridiculous that we are dealing with this type of problem in 2012 but it's usually QC that suffers as the price drops. Hopefully the frequent regular charging won't shorten the battery life...


----------



## crabarts231

I got a pair for my X70, no matter what we adjust, it wouldn't reduce any ghosting on JVC. so i just need to keep default to get the maxium brightness, then change the polarity only, right?


----------



## Toknowshita

Funny thing on the shelf time is that my Optoma glasses (same glasses, but probably a different revision) will hold a charge for up to 2m with no use. The monster ones are usually dead in under a month.


----------



## dan webster

I must be doing something wrong. I just purchases a sony 50 es projector. I know these glasses are compatible with it. It has a built in emitter. The sony glasses work great. I bought 2 pairs of the mv glasses. I can not get the transmitter to find a signal no matter what i do. I updated the firmware, The emitter flashes red while it is looking for the signal, i have the ir thing right next to the sony s emitter but nothing. It just keeps flashing all the buttons in red. I tried using the joystick to get the emitter to 4 green lights ( learning mode) still nothing, just flashing red lights. Does anyone here have any suggestions. I have tried using both emitter and neither work.


----------



## Toknowshita

Are you watching 3D content or forced 3D mode? Also you might want to back the Monster IR sensor off the emitter some? Also make sure the IR cord is firmly plugged in RF transmitter.


----------



## dan webster

I got the emitter to sync. However i must have messed something else up. The glasses go almost black when i push the sync button on them.


----------



## Ewingr

Well, I too find that all 6 pair of Monsters that I purchased do drain the battery w/o use










Of course, I've had them longer than 30 days (the return period), and less than 120 days (the warranty period). I am presuming that warranty will be useless for this issue.


Anyone have any info to the contrary?


----------



## dan webster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toknowshita*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/840#post_22527778
> 
> 
> Are you watching 3D content or forced 3D mode? Also you might want to back the Monster IR sensor off the emitter some? Also make sure the IR cord is firmly plugged in RF transmitter.


Thanks that helped. I inadvertainly turned the brightness down to near zero in the transmitter. It pays to read the manual i guess. Everything is working fine now except the transmitter looses sync with the projector every time i switch out of 3d mode. It finds it again just fine when i manually put it into search mode. I am not sure how to get it to do it automatically though.

I am very pleased with the mv glasses. They are much more comfy than the sony ones. I do not know if mine will lose charge since io have only been using them for a few days.


----------



## stevenjw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ewingr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/800_100#post_22532208
> 
> 
> Well, I too find that all 6 pair of Monsters that I purchased do drain the battery w/o use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, I've had them longer than 30 days (the return period), and less than 120 days (the warranty period). I am presuming that warranty will be useless for this issue.
> 
> Anyone have any info to the contrary?



Monster support is useless concerning these 3D glasses. I have two pair that do not hold a charge for long. One barely makes it threw a movie and the other maybe 10 minutes. Still under warranty and only thing MV did was to provide RMA to send them back for a refund (return shipping on my dime too). At least they'll take them back for a refund, but these will likely be my last Monster product purchases.


It's a shame because they were comfortable enough (better than Epson and Xpand) and worked well when they held a charge. Too bad there's no replacement battery solution.


Anyone have any suggestions before I ship mine back? I'll probably do that next Monday.


----------



## blipszyc

If you liked the comfort, Optoma sells these same glasses, albeit for a bit more than you probably got your Monsters for.


I thought there was some hope with a possible transistor change, but it looks like that hasn't gone anywhere yet.


----------



## stevenjw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/800_100#post_22542236
> 
> 
> If you liked the comfort, Optoma sells these same glasses, albeit for a bit more than you probably got your Monsters for.
> 
> I thought there was some hope with a possible transistor change, but it looks like that hasn't gone anywhere yet.



Has it been determined that the Optoma glasses don't have the same issue? If they're the same Bit Cauldron glasses, aren't they likely to be using the same battery and have the same issue? Unless the ones I got cheap from Monster were a batch that were known to be bad, hence the cheap price....


Sucks that BC, Monster, or any else doesn't sell replacement batteries. It's not like they'll last forever regardless of capacitor, etc. They're easy to access and remove via a single screw and small plug, so it's kind of dumb not to provide a replacement. I would hope BC would plan for this.


I really like these and hate to part with them since I got two glasses w/RF kits for a little over $100 total. Guess I'll go back to IR and pick up some PS3 glasses worst case.


----------



## crabarts231

I got my MV3D today, and update to VIP 3D firmware v.11.05.010 already. I found some issues on it. The polarity mode wouldn't keep the setting to revise. After i adjust to 3red LED, it just took 10seconds back to normal mode, not 2minutes and not keep the setting. Just go back to the standard. The fine tune mode is ok, it will keep 2minutes and remember the settings, but polarity setting wouldn't. What's wrong about my transmitter?


----------



## crabarts231

I also try the 2nd transmitter that i didn't update the firmware. It's ok to change the polarity to 3LED reversed mode. So, what's wrong with the transmitter i updated the VIP 3D firmware?


----------



## stevenjw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CDJayRFU*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/800_100#post_22445504
> 
> 
> Anyone else swapped their MV3D glasses for the new 3dNow! model (3dn-6000)? I shipped 4 MV3D kits from the States, to the UK, when I got my VW95ES late last year, and two of them failed to hold charge. Recently I screened a 3d movie with some friends recently and ended up running in and out attempting to charge and sync the MV3D glasses which spoiled things somewhat, which ultimately triggered me ordering 4 (+emitter) of the new model.
> 
> So far, no issues. Haven't put the newest emitter in or had a tweak (as they are backward compatible, my old emitter which I setup using a laptop works fine w/ the new glasses once paired) so I'll focus on the glasses themselves. They are noticeably lighter, all of them charge properly and there is no buzzing when they are on. The charging port is now on the top of the glasses, with the led and power button on the bottom right. Holding the power button for 2 seconds when they are already on switches polarity.
> 
> So far, I'm very happy with my purchase. It fixed my problems, with minimal upheaval, and has some fringe benefits as noticed.
> 
> I'll report back once I've tried/tweaked the new emitter and used the glasses a bit more.
> 
> CDJay



Where did you buy your 3DNow 6000 glasses? Amazon? It sounds like these are also sourced from Bit Cauldron and work with the MV Max3D transmitter. I like that you've found these to be lighter with some improvements and button differences, but I'm mostly concerned with the rechargeable battery life. Can you pleas update you experiences so far in this area? Thanks!


----------



## Todd Schnell

I just picked up the MV3D kit and have a weird problem. I did the firmware upgrade a few days ago, and tried to use the glasses for the first time yesterday. When I plugged everything up I get nothing. No lights on the transmitter, unless I move the stick in any direction, then I get one red light in the center.


I tried to reset it back to the factory settings, but nothing happens, except for the same one red light. I can no longer get any computer to recognize the transmitter either.


I guess the transmitter is defective. Any thoughts?


----------



## dragonlord76

Hi, I bought Optoma HD33 and just got couple 3D RF glasses. 1 is MonsterVision and other Optoma. The problem I have is after fine tune MonsterVision glasses works great but not with Optoma glasses. It is possible to fine tune each separately or defect?


----------



## derek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevenjw*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22545119
> 
> 
> Has it been determined that the Optoma glasses don't have the same issue? If they're the same Bit Cauldron glasses, aren't they likely to be using the same battery and have the same issue?


I have two pair of the Optoma glasses and they last my guess 30-60 days on a single charge with a few viewings in between. I have two pair of the Monsters and they are depleted in about a week or so. Bit Caluldron licensed the technology but the manufacturing I would assume is different between the vendors. The battery charge/discharge circuit clearly has an issue in the Monster. Possibly due to a single component but no one has directly determined the cause....yet.


----------



## lovingdvd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *derek*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22565296
> 
> 
> I have two pair of the Optoma glasses and they last my guess 30-60 days on a single charge with a few viewings in between. I have two pair of the Monsters and they are depleted in about a week or so. Bit Caluldron licensed the technology but the manufacturing I would assume is different between the vendors. The battery charge/discharge circuit clearly has an issue in the Monster. Possibly due to a single component but no one has directly determined the cause....yet.



I posted about my experiences with this a year ago. Essentially I started out with 2 Monster glasses. Our of the box one battery was completed drained which wasn't a good sign, but took a charge. After about 10 hours of usage on each pair the battery indicators said they were low. I returned these and got the Optoma ones to replace them (4 of them actually). ALL of the Optoma ones have much better - I'd say excellent - battery life. They last months without a recharge if not used, and seem to easily 20-30 hours of usage before indicating they are no longer fully charged (not in low mode but the middle battery level). HTH.


----------



## disco1954

How did the 3D glasses work with the monster rf transmitter


----------



## Toknowshita

I have both Optoma and MV glasses. They all work fine with the RF transmitter that came with the MVs.


But I have the same issue. The MVs can't hold a charge beyond a couple of weeks, but the Optomas will be good over a month between charges.


Monster got out of the glasses because they couldn't charge an excessive premium and they knew they had a battery issue.


----------



## UdoG

Where do I find the actual firmware and the 3d utility for the transmitter?


----------



## G-Rex

With all the problems we are having with the Monsters inability to hold a charge, can those on the forum suggest an alternative to these glasses? Is there any new models that are ir or rf that are either recently out or soon to be released that have the performance of the Monsters (minus the buzzing) but actually work? Thanks


----------



## Wesley Hester

I've been using the Monster glasses for awhile now. The 1 pair I have holds a charge but I have begun to notice the buzzing sound others have reported earlier. I've since gone back to just using my IR Mitsubishi branded X103's: even doing away with the TrueDepth and 3DActive pairs.


----------



## bobpaule




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wesley Hester*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22610260
> 
> 
> I've been using the Monster glasses for awhile now. The 1 pair I have holds a charge but I have begun to notice the buzzing sound others have reported earlier. I've since gone back to just using my IR Mitsubishi branded X103's: even doing away with the TrueDepth and 3DActive pairs.



Good to know, i have invested in 8 pairs of Mitsu IR glasses for my HC9000D, find them very decent, though a bit dark.


----------



## jhunt17

Hey guys, a quick question. I have these monster vision max glasses from a failed experiment with the converter boxes and I have just bought a panny 8000. Will these glasses work with it and I also have a pai of zd 201 glasses from when I tried out the benq w7000. It was great but it was rainbow city and nausea for me with the dlp. Will either one of these work with the panny? Thanks


----------



## jclausing

Just got a pair of these in a last ditch effort to watch 3D content on my Samsung UN55C8000 set. With the Samsung glasses the ghosting was horrible to the point I could not sit through a movie. Wherever there was any type of light/dark contrast, there was a distinct outline around the light object. This was super distracting and made the content unwatchable. I tried every setting on the TV(including updating the firmware) in order to reduce or eliminate this to no avail. I read about the ability to "tune" these glasses and thought I would give it a shot. Got them set up yesterday and cannot believe the difference. Had to do some tuning as the out of the box setting produced results similar to the Samsung glasses but once I got the settings right the difference was huge. While there is still some slight ghosting, it is much less noticable and is very watchable. So far I am very pleased with these glasses and was glad I was able to get them fairly cheap too. Very disappointed that the Samsung glasses are essentially useless.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevenjw*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22547976
> 
> 
> Where did you buy your 3DNow 6000 glasses? Amazon? It sounds like these are also sourced from Bit Cauldron and work with the MV Max3D transmitter. I like that you've found these to be lighter with some improvements and button differences, but I'm mostly concerned with the rechargeable battery life. Can you pleas update you experiences so far in this area? Thanks!



I got mine from Consignia.ca. Also, 3D-VIP is back to doing direct sales of their 3D processors and glasses from their website.


----------



## jtgrunden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclausing*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22632091
> 
> 
> Just got a pair of these in a last ditch effort to watch 3D content on my Samsung UN55C8000 set. With the Samsung glasses the ghosting was horrible to the point I could not sit through a movie. Wherever there was any type of light/dark contrast, there was a distinct outline around the light object. This was super distracting and made the content unwatchable. I tried every setting on the TV(including updating the firmware) in order to reduce or eliminate this to no avail. I read about the ability to "tune" these glasses and thought I would give it a shot. Got them set up yesterday and cannot believe the difference. Had to do some tuning as the out of the box setting produced results similar to the Samsung glasses but once I got the settings right the difference was huge. While there is still some slight ghosting, it is much less noticable and is very watchable. So far I am very pleased with these glasses and was glad I was able to get them fairly cheap too. Very disappointed that the Samsung glasses are essentially useless.



What changes did you make to the default settings and did you notice any reduction in brightness after the tweak? I need to spend some time with this as I'm experiencing more ghosting than I would like.


----------



## jtgrunden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevenjw*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22542028
> 
> 
> Monster support is useless concerning these 3D glasses. I have two pair that do not hold a charge for long. One barely makes it threw a movie and the other maybe 10 minutes. Still under warranty and only thing MV did was to provide RMA to send them back for a refund (return shipping on my dime too). At least they'll take them back for a refund, but these will likely be my last Monster product purchases.
> 
> It's a shame because they were comfortable enough (better than Epson and Xpand) and worked well when they held a charge. Too bad there's no replacement battery solution.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions before I ship mine back? I'll probably do that next Monday.



I guess I really should have known that if Monster (the king of overcharging for everything that they sell) was selling these at a reasonable price there had to be a catch. They obviously made a huge production run of these with the defect and now have just decided to abandon the product and their customers rather than fix the problem. I've got 9 pair that I purchased based on the reports here in this forum but the battery issue was not well known yet. It's really too bad Monster won't own up to this and provide a solution, it almost has to be a leak or drain on the battery when the glasses are off. Until then I guess I'll just have to keep planning ahead for 3D content and charge them up. At least they all still last an entire day when fully charged but I suppose that clock is ticking as well.


----------



## SgtVideo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jtgrunden*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22661497
> 
> 
> I guess I really should have known that if Monster (the king of overcharging for everything that they sell) was selling these at a reasonable price there had to be a catch. They obviously made a huge production run of these with the defect and now have just decided to abandon the product and their customers rather than fix the problem. I've got 9 pair that I purchased based on the reports here in this forum but the battery issue was not well known yet. It's really too bad Monster won't own up to this and provide a solution, it almost has to be a leak or drain on the battery when the glasses are off. Until then I guess I'll just have to keep planning ahead for 3D content and charge them up. At least they all still last an entire day when fully charged but I suppose that clock is ticking as well.



Bit Cauldron makes them for Monster and several other brands. Search in the 3DVIP forums for the battery charge problem as it has been discussed at length well over a year ago. It's not surprising that it has resurfaced again. As far as Monster's solution that's another matter in itself. Primarily an assembler will install the wrong value charge resistor and the battery never reaches potential.


----------



## jtgrunden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SgtVideo*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22678974
> 
> 
> Bit Cauldron makes them for Monster and several other brands. Search in the 3DVIP forums for the battery charge problem as it has been discussed at length well over a year ago. It's not surprising that it has resurfaced again. As far as Monster's solution that's another matter in itself. Primarily an assembler will install the wrong value charge resistor and the battery never reaches potential.



Thanks for the feedback, I'll search the 3DVIP forum and see what I can find. It seems by now someone should have identified the correct resister if that's all that's wrong. I know earlier in this thread someone was looking into that but then progress seems to have fizzled. I'm also going to contact Bit Cauldron for what's it worth. It seems unclear exactly who does the full assembly of these glasses and fouled up the charging circuit. If I find out anything useful I'll post it here.


----------



## CDJayRFU

A few people asked where I got the glasses from, which was here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm 


They shipped from Canada (to me, in the UK) and turned up very quickly!


I'll reiterate that these are improved over the MV3D glasses I owned before










CDJay


----------



## blipszyc

Wife got me a pair of the Monster Max 3D glasses and want to make sure they have the latest firmware...is the Curt Palme link the latest? Looks like it's dated around August of 2011?


----------



## adidino

Has anyone purchased the new Optima RF glasses? They are supposed to be a better design and work with the existing emmiter. Curios how they compare to the legacy Monster/Optima glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/OPTOMA-TECHNOLOGY-BG-ZF2100GLS-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1356751288&sr=8-3&keywords=optoma+3d


----------



## djbluemax1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22755752
> 
> 
> Has anyone purchased the new Optima RF glasses? They are supposed to be a better design and work with the existing emmiter. Curios how they compare to the legacy Monster/Optima glasses.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/OPTOMA-TECHNOLOGY-BG-ZF2100GLS-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1356751288&sr=8-3&keywords=optoma+3d


I believe they're the same as these:
http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm 


and if that's the case, yes, there are folks who've been using them and say that they don't have the charge drain problems and work as well as or better than the older models and are supposedly lighter.



Max


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djbluemax1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22755798
> 
> 
> I believe they're the same as these:
> http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm
> 
> and if that's the case, yes, there are folks who've been using them and say that they don't have the charge drain problems and work as well as or better than the older models and are supposedly lighter.
> 
> Max



Those are the ones. There was some mention of an improved power and sync button. If anyone has these glasses, can you post a pic of a close up of those buttons?


----------



## CDJayRFU

Holding the power button on the glasses, when on, now switches polarity. TBH I see that as a negative, albeit a minor one. I'm a fan of fit and forget, and being able to accidently switch polarity could prove annoying. It's only happened to me once, so far, but there you go.


The other improvements offset that, though!


CDJay


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CDJayRFU*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22756685
> 
> 
> Holding the power button on the glasses, when on, now switches polarity. TBH I see that as a negative, albeit a minor one. I'm a fan of fit and forget, and being able to accidently switch polarity could prove annoying. It's only happened to me once, so far, but there you go.
> 
> The other improvements offset that, though!
> 
> CDJay



I can live with that I think. What are some of the improvements you noticed over the original glasses?


----------



## mariod505

I'm unable to get either of the IR sensors from the two glasses I bought to find the signal from my Epson 5010. The projector correctly auto-detects the 3D signal and goes into 3D mode, and I can see the IR emitters turn on, but the sensors for the glasses just keep doing the Knight Rider thing with the red lights going back and forth. Any ideas? I'm using PowerDVD 12 to test it out.


Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?


----------



## CDJayRFU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22756797
> 
> 
> I can live with that I think. What are some of the improvements you noticed over the original glasses?



Fit better over glasses, the glasses themselves are considerably lighter, no issues with holding charge + seems to last longer on that charge.


Just more comfortable to wear for extended periods, which is a godsend w/ stuff like Titanic 3D










CDJay


----------



## mariod505

.


----------



## mariod505

Are there any instructions on how to setup the IR detector? Mine cannot find the signal on my Epson 5010e even though 3D is on, and the detectors are taped right to the IR emitter.


----------



## mariod505




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mariod505*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22765368
> 
> 
> Are there any instructions on how to setup the IR detector? Mine cannot find the signal on my Epson 5010e even though 3D is on, and the detectors are taped right to the IR emitter.



Never mind, I found that updating the firmware to the .010 version provided by 3D-VIP fixed the issue. Unbelievable that Monster doesn't ship with the latest firmware - nor do they make it available.


----------



## dan webster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CDJayRFU*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22703354
> 
> 
> A few people asked where I got the glasses from, which was here:
> http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm
> 
> They shipped from Canada (to me, in the UK) and turned up very quickly!
> 
> I'll reiterate that these are improved over the MV3D glasses I owned before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CDJay


I have 2 pairs of the monsters. I have the charging problem on both of my pairs. Very annoying. Otherwise they work very well. Better than the sony glasses that came with my sony hw 50 projector. I am considering ordering 4 pairs with emitter from curtpalme. Appx $370 shipped. I have the monster emitter however it has never been able to hold sync with my projector whenever i go out and back into 3d mode on the sony. I am hoping the new emitter doers a better job. Do you think the nerw glasses actually perform better than the monsters, all other issues aside? thanks


----------



## blipszyc

Can anyone confirm the latest firmware version and location? Last one I saw appears to be from Aug '11.


----------



## adidino

I have 2 pair of the Oppo version glasses listed in the classifieds section if anyone is interested.


----------



## mariod505




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22770747
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm the latest firmware version and location? Last one I saw appears to be from Aug '11.



I found version x.010 here: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776 , and it solved my Monster 3D glasses to Epson 5010e compatibility problem.


----------



## Brian Hampton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jtgrunden*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/870#post_22661497
> 
> 
> I guess I really should have known that if Monster (the king of overcharging for everything that they sell) was selling these at a reasonable price there had to be a catch. They obviously made a huge production run of these with the defect and now have just decided to abandon the product and their customers rather than fix the problem. I've got 9 pair that I purchased based on the reports here in this forum but the battery issue was not well known yet. It's really too bad Monster won't own up to this and provide a solution, it almost has to be a leak or drain on the battery when the glasses are off. Until then I guess I'll just have to keep planning ahead for 3D content and charge them up. At least they all still last an entire day when fully charged but I suppose that clock is ticking as well.




Good Gravy 9 pairs of glasses with the battery problem?!?!!!


The first pair of glasses I got from 3D-VIP back in time had battery that worked but it was always claimed to be near dead. It never posed a problem getting through a movie esp if I charged it before hand but it was nothing like the 30 movies between charge claims I have seen.


So,... they swapped the set out with another pair and presto... it solved the problem. Not certain the replacement could go 60 hours but it went for weeks between charging.


With 9 pairs,... I would be nearly postal with rage if they had battery problems.


I really think you should write directly to Bit Cauldron. If I was them,.. I would say mail them in and then I would mail out replacements. Who else believed in the product to the point of buying 9 pairs. I have to check my Guinness book of records but I think you are listed as owning the most pairs.


I really hope you get something done...


On the possible bright side... I do believe the battery is replace-able... I mean it looks like there is a little screw on battery cover on the side. Maybe a fresh battery would work... maybe.


-Brian


----------



## djbluemax1

It doesn't appear to be the battery, but the internal charging circuit that's at fault. A few pages back, someone tried taking out the battery from a known good pair and swapping it with a known bad pair and the problem stays with the glasses. They were going to try to see if they could isolate the (theoretically) wrong resistor in the faulty charging circuit, but never got around to it.



Max


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Brian, SgtVideo tried finding replacement batteries over a year ago when the issues with charging first popped up. He was unable to find a source for them.


And it may not hurt to contact Bit Cauldron. In 2011, one of the LEDs in my original transmitter disintegrated. I sourced some 2-color LEDs from a distributor and contacted Bit Cauldron to ask what the correct LED should be. To my surprise, one of the engineers responded with the manufacturer and part number for the LED, which to my relief was one of the ones I had ordered. I got the old LED out, the new one installed, and everything works fine now.


----------



## Brian Hampton

I wonder if the rechargeable battery could be replaced with a standard watch battery.


Of course, it would no longer be rechargeable but may be better.


(But I don't know about the battery.)


----------



## Thundercat99

Well I have Seven pairs(Bought on severe discount of course) of the monsters, None hold a charge.

All I did was purchase a 10 Hub usb wall charger.

I keep em all pluged in and charging so they are always ready to go.

None have develeped the dreaded buzzing yet at least.

When they eventuayl fail completely in a year or two I will buy the next latest and greatest.

Sucks but what can ya do.


----------



## jchasen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thundercat99*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900_50#post_22790124
> 
> 
> Well I have Seven pairs(Bought on severe discount of course) of the monsters, None hold a charge.
> 
> All I did was purchase a 10 Hub usb wall charger.
> 
> I keep em all pluged in and charging so they are always ready to go.



What wall charger did you find to charge them all at once (and how much did it cost)?


----------



## EtherMagic

Just tonight I connected my monster glasses to my Sony HW30 projector, and while the 3D is amazing, I am seeing flicker/low shudder speeds to the point of being distracted at times. Does the position of the Emitter have anything to do with this? Or do i just need to update the firmware?




Thx much!




Ether


----------



## Thundercat99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jchasen*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22791050
> 
> 
> What wall charger did you find to charge them all at once (and how much did it cost)?



It's a 10 cell charger USB 2.0. I Got it off EBAY for 12.95 a seller called "hottestdealever"


Have had it a couple months so far no worries. All my glasses work when I have 3D movie nite on my Mitsu 73"


PS


Just checked them and I See one listed for 8.50 Free shipping.


Hope this helps


----------



## adidino

If anyone is interested, still have one pair of the Optima glasses listed in the classified section. $60 shipped.


----------



## ecossecableman

still trying to get these to work with my sony hx723 tv tried the curtepalme upgrade shown above, didnt work>


appreciate any help


----------



## cemo62

I read in some forums some people say they prefer optoma/mvision glassess for reducing ghosting/flickering, is this possible?and also can we get better result in 3d with oppo 103 instead of PS3?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cemo62*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22964387
> 
> 
> I read in some forums some people say they prefer optoma/mvision glassess for reducing ghosting/flickering, is this possible?and also can we get better result in 3d with oppo 103 instead of PS3?



It's because the Optoma/Monster/VIP RF glasses use an emitter that can be adjusted for duty cycle (changes image brightness, which can reduce flicker) and shutter timing (which controls ghosting). As to whether an Oppo is better at 3D than a PS3, I couldn't tell you since I don't own either one.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22841702
> 
> 
> still trying to get these to work with my sony hx723 tv tried the curtepalme upgrade shown above, didnt work>
> 
> 
> appreciate any help



What issues are you having? My Sony Bravia doesn't maintain a stable 3D image but wanders in and out of sync (picture slowly goes from 3D to 2D and back again every few minutes). I believe it's because the Sony isn't locking to the video signal so it can do it's "motion smoothing" frame interpolation tricks. JVC digital projectors are infamous for not working well with the Bit Cauldron-sourced RF glasses like the MVs because they don't lock to the video signal sync.


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovingdvd*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/330#post_21488971
> 
> 
> After much experimentation I believe the BEST settings for use with the Sony VW95 are the factory, default settings, but with the 3D brightness setting on the Sony at level 3 (one down from the "Max" setting).
> 
> 
> 
> The default settings for the Sony (note that the default settings are manufacturer specific!) at 1150 delay and 89 duty cycle. With the 3D brightness control set at 3 that is the equivalent of 72 for the duty cycle.
> 
> 
> 
> However its best to just go with the default factor settings (which is technically different than just putting the same default settings into the fine tuning menu - read this sentence again so it sinks in...).
> 
> 
> 
> So IMO to get the best results reset your transmitter to the factory default setting (instructions are in the manual) and then put the 3D brightness in the Sony menu to 3. With some material you may be able to push it back to Max without adding to the ghosting.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say for sure about the VW30 but I think its a high probability this all applies just the same to that unit.


Have to dig up this one as I have been playing around with the MV3D glasses and the Sony HW50. When I tried to do a factory reset, the Duty Cycle and Delay kept getting set to their minimum values, which I think is 10 and 20. The picture was very dark. I went ahead and just put the values you mentioned into the tool and saved them and I think things look great. Anyone know if there is a specific reason to just do a factory reset?


----------



## mark88da

Hey guys.


I can't get the rf emitter to find signal from the if signal with my projector http://www.benq.com/product/projector/w700/specifications 


My computer can't update the emitter, cause it can't recognize it.

I have off course tried to set the 3D ON. I got 2 pairs of emitters, so maybe there is a problem with both of the emitters.


The projector is with dlp. Any solutions anyone?



- Mark


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark88da*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_22984106
> 
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> 
> I can't get the rf emitter to find signal from the if signal with my projector http://www.benq.com/product/projector/w700/specifications
> 
> 
> My computer can't update the emitter, cause it can't recognize it.
> 
> I have off course tried to set the 3D ON. I got 2 pairs of emitters, so maybe there is a problem with both of the emitters.
> 
> 
> The projector is with dlp. Any solutions anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> - Mark



I hate to say this, Mark, but you may be SOL. I looked at your link, and that PJ is listed as DLPLink, with no mention of IR signalling for 3D glasses. DLP Link uses a white or red flash inserted into the image at intervals to keep the glasses in sync. The transmitter doesn't sync from a DLP Link flash, so without IR output or a VESA sync port to attach the transmitter to, the transmitter can't work with your PJ.


----------



## mark88da

Damn.


Allright thanks. Then i guess i have 2 monstervision kits on sale from Denmark.


But thanks really!



-Mark


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Sorry, Mark. I hate being the bearer of bad tidings.


----------



## mark88da

Hey there again.


I have one more question. I got the nvidia 3d vision kit and it works fine with the computer and projector. But what do i have to buy, if i want to get it to work with the xbox?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mark88da*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/900#post_23016996
> 
> 
> Hey there again.
> 
> 
> I have one more question. I got the nvidia 3d vision kit and it works fine with the computer and projector. But what do i have to buy, if i want to get it to work with the xbox?



Compatible DLP Link glasses.


----------



## mark88da

Damn, this 3D is just not cheap for me










but thanks alot again!!


----------



## j2037

I need to swap left/right eye lens, that software Zombie10k was refering to isn't around on the net anymore, anybody can provide a download link for the forum members, would be a big help.


----------



## Mikenificent1

I just bought a second pair of these glasses and the left lens doesn't work. Is it just defective or something I can do to turn it on?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## superflysocal

Has anyone got these to work with the Mitsubishi HC7800 using the IR to RF dongle?


I know you can cut/solder a new connector in and plug it directly into the projector but was hoping to get it to work without resorting to that.


I also know in theory it should work with most IR 3d emitters using the ir to rf dongle but hc7800 uses a proprietary IR system that seems to not be compatible with most systems so I need real world experiences.


----------



## zolasson

monster vision 3d glasses

seeking latest firmware update.. unable 2 find ..also suggested duty cycle / delay settings..

jvc rs 50 projector..

thanks


----------



## zolasson

monster vision 3d glasses

seeking latest firmware update.. unable 2 find ..also suggested duty cycle / delay settings..

jvc rs 50 projector..

thanks


----------



## DVD MAN

 http://www.monsterproducts.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938&id=9132


----------



## DVD MAN

Select Manuals to get firmware.


----------



## sjv

Is the latest firmware update for the Monster Vision Max 3D glasses V. 1.05.004 ?







Thanks


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjv*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23051464
> 
> 
> Is the latest firmware update for the Monster Vision Max 3D glasses V. 1.05.004 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


This seems to be the latest. It updates your transmitter and glasses to the VIP version, which is the OEM software.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776


----------



## jsc1205

I have 2 of the Monstervision Max 3D glasses and I, like evidently many others, have issues with them staying charged. Every time I try to use them, I try turning them on and nothing happens. I have to plug them in to get a charge, then try turning them on.....a real pain.


Guess Monstercable is no longer supporting these glasses since I cant find anything on their website anymore about them, let alone a link for any firmware updates. Is there a way to fix the charging issue? They worked great but if I cant turn them on they are useless!


I purchased a Xpand YOUniversal pair yesterday and they seem to work great. Now wondering if they would work with the Monster RF transmiter since the Xpand ones come with a RF dongle you can add.


Thanks for any info anyone can give me...especially on the Monster glasses!


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsc1205*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23056126
> 
> 
> I have 2 of the Monstervision Max 3D glasses and I, like evidently many others, have issues with them staying charged. Every time I try to use them, I try turning them on and nothing happens. I have to plug them in to get a charge, then try turning them on.....a real pain.
> 
> 
> Guess Monstercable is no longer supporting these glasses since I cant find anything on their website anymore about them, let alone a link for any firmware updates. Is there a way to fix the charging issue? They worked great but if I cant turn them on they are useless!
> 
> 
> I purchased a Xpand YOUniversal pair yesterday and they seem to work great. Now wondering if they would work with the Monster RF transmiter since the Xpand ones come with a RF dongle you can add.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any info anyone can give me...especially on the Monster glasses!



Let us know how the Xpand's compare when you get a chance


----------



## jsc1205




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23056333
> 
> 
> Let us know how the Xpand's compare when you get a chance



Tried the Xpand YOUniversal glasses last night and they worked great. The only difference I could tell was the size of the lenses. I liked the fact that the Monster ones were bigger...but that might just be my personal taste. As far as operation of the Xpand, it was very simple. Plugged them into my PC via USB and updated the firmware which took probably 40 secs or so. Let them sit and charge as well. I liked the fact that on the Xpand the light turns to green when fully charged, while the Monster ones were confusing to me. Especially if I try to use them and they wont freakin turn on! The on/off button the Xpand was much easier to use. The Monster one is terrible, which I told a Monster rep over the phone when I purchased them. I could tell really no difference in 3D quality between the Xpand and Monster really. I got a medium size Xpand glasses and ordered a large last night to compare. The medium seemed to fit my 7 year old a little better than me, but that might be because I have a big head! Hah


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsc1205*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23056361
> 
> 
> Tried the Xpand YOUniversal glasses last night and they worked great. The only difference I could tell was the size of the lenses. I liked the fact that the Monster ones were bigger...but that might just be my personal taste. As far as operation of the Xpand, it was very simple. Plugged them into my PC via USB and updated the firmware which took probably 40 secs or so. Let them sit and charge as well. I liked the fact that on the Xpand the light turns to green when fully charged, while the Monster ones were confusing to me. Especially if I try to use them and they wont freakin turn on! The on/off button the Xpand was much easier to use. The Monster one is terrible, which I told a Monster rep over the phone when I purchased them. I could tell really no difference in 3D quality between the Xpand and Monster really. I got a medium size Xpand glasses and ordered a large last night to compare. The medium seemed to fit my 7 year old a little better than me, but that might be because I have a big head! Hah



Does the xpand sync to the monster transmitter? Thanks for the info.


----------



## jsc1205




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23056836
> 
> 
> Does the xpand sync to the monster transmitter? Thanks for the info.



Not sure yet since I dont have the RF Dongle for the Xpand glasses.


So, what happened with Monstervision Max 3D??? Did they just top making them or what? Anyone know about the charging issue?


Thanks


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23056836
> 
> 
> Does the xpand sync to the monster transmitter? Thanks for the info.



I'd be willing to bet it doesn't. The list of compatible devices on Xpand's website shows some Samsung and Panasonic TVs for RF devices, and IIRC, they use Bluetooth or the newer FHD3D RF spec. The Monster/VIP/Optoma glasses and transmitters use Zigbee, a different RF format.


----------



## blipszyc

Do the newer VIP/Optoma glasses work with the old Monster emitter? I'd love to pick up a couple more pair of these, but not the MONSTER version, and I'd want to use the same emitter. I've got 3 pair now, and 2 of the 3 die after about 3 days. The other pair seems to hold charge for about 2 weeks.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23057477
> 
> 
> Do the newer VIP/Optoma glasses work with the old Monster emitter? I'd love to pick up a couple more pair of these, but not the MONSTER version, and I'd want to use the same emitter. I've got 3 pair now, and 2 of the 3 die after about 3 days. The other pair seems to hold charge for about 2 weeks.



Yes.


----------



## Mikenificent1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsc1205*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23057173
> 
> 
> Not sure yet since I dont have the RF Dongle for the Xpand glasses.
> 
> 
> So, what happened with Monstervision Max 3D??? Did they just top making them or what? Anyone know about the charging issue?
> 
> 
> Thanks


The xpand glasses aren't RF capable out of the box?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikenificent1*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23072066
> 
> 
> The xpand glasses aren't RF capable out of the box?



Yes and no. Only if you buy the kit with the plug-in RF dongle included. Then it has to be installed on a receptacle on one of the glasses' temples. Without that dongle, they aren't RF capable.


----------



## G-Rex

Post error


----------



## G-Rex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23057477
> 
> 
> Do the newer VIP/Optoma glasses work with the old Monster emitter? I'd love to pick up a couple more pair of these, but not the MONSTER version, and I'd want to use the same emitter. I've got 3 pair now, and 2 of the 3 die after about 3 days. The other pair seems to hold charge for about 2 weeks.



Has anyone compared the Monster emitter to the new Vip/Bit C/Optoma emitter? If I have the old Monster emitter but getting the new Optoma glasses...anything to be gained by purchasing the new emitter?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Rex*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23115941
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared the Monster emitter to the new Vip/Bit C/Optoma emitter? If I have the old Monster emitter but getting the new Optoma glasses...anything to be gained by purchasing the new emitter?



The new emitter has presets for different display types to make tweaking a bit easier, and in some cases, unnecessary. It also will install new firmware in your old glasses the first time they are powered up after it's installed.


----------



## G-Rex

Thanks. Sounds like the new emitter could be worth it. Is there a projector mode on the emitter for dlp and sxrd/lycos? Or is there just a projector category?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Rex*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23118500
> 
> 
> Thanks. Sounds like the new emitter could be worth it. Is there a projector mode on the emitter for dlp and sxrd/lycos? Or is there just a projector category?



It goes by light-producing technology: LED, Plasma, DLP, CRT. And, it can also be tuned with the 3D management utility app from VIP, Monster, et al. That's what I do. Just make sure you don't accidentally try to install the older firmware that's included with the app.


----------



## G-Rex

Ok thanks Rolls.


Does anyone know if these glasses each come packed with the RF emitter?

http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF2100GLS-Active-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364561280&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+3d+glasses


----------



## Geoff D

After hearing about how the Monsters helped with the crosstalk on some folks' sets, I went and bought a pair. After several days of adjusting them watching various titles, here's my conclusion: the 3D on my TV is ****e. (Either that or it's my eyes.) One second it looks incredible, the next scene is full of crosstalk, which I can't fix no matter what I do. If I change the settings on the glasses or TV or BD player to 'fix' a bad looking scene, it then throws the next good looking scene out of whack. If I'm being generous the Monsters maybe make the crosstalk that little bit more transparent than the standard Sony spex, but it's still there.


It's pathetic that there still isn't a proper 3D calibration disc available. Not that it'd make much difference in my case I guess, but it'd be nice to have an objective set of standards to compare my Sony 55HX823 to, confirming that the 3D is crap once and for all, instead of driving myself crazy thinking that I *might* be able to get it to look good most (if not all) of the time.


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Hi, Geoff. You may be seeing something first reported by users of the VIP 3D units, and it is that the display is not locking to the incoming video signal. This causes a variation in sync between the display and the glasses, which is partly responsible for the swings in crosstalk levels you're describing. I have a theory that the failure to lock to the signal is related to the set's "120/240 Hz" frame-interpolation routines for smoothing motion. Since your set appears to be a 3D-capable model, it's strange that you have the problem with the Sony glasses as well.


BTW, you can have changes in crosstalk from program to program and source to source.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Rex*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23139738
> 
> 
> Ok thanks Rolls.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if these glasses each come packed with the RF emitter?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF2100GLS-Active-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364561280&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+3d+glasses



Nope. Those do not. A pair of glasses _with the emitter_ will generally set you back about $120 or so.


I purchased my VIP-branded glasses and emitter from a vendor in Canada.


----------



## nareciss

Hello everyone,


First sorry for my bad english but i ll try to explain myself the best i can.I recently purchase a 3d vison max kit to try it with my panasonic vt 50 plasma,first i upgrade the emitter then charge the glasses and put it to work.

But when the glasses try to connect to the emitter i have a very dark picture and the 3d effect don't work.I try different setting (bluray disc and mkv sbs file) but neither of them work.

Do you think something is broken in my kit or it could a problem with inteference with something elses,or just not compatible with my tv.


thanks for helping me.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nareciss*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/930#post_23162977
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> First sorry for my bad english but i ll try to explain myself the best i can.I recently purchase a 3d vison max kit to try it with my panasonic vt 50 plasma,first i upgrade the emitter then charge the glasses and put it to work.
> 
> But when the glasses try to connect to the emitter i have a very dark picture and the 3d effect don't work.I try different setting (bluray disc and mkv sbs file) but neither of them work.
> 
> Do you think something is broken in my kit or it could a problem with inteference with something elses,or just not compatible with my tv.
> 
> 
> thanks for helping me.



To use the Max 3D setup, your VT50 has to have either a VESA 3D connector (this looks like a PC mouse or S-video port), or use IR to trigger its glasses. According to the user manual on the Panasonic website, the VT50 doesn't have a VESA 3D connector and uses Bluetooth to run its glasses. The Max3D is RF, but not Bluetooth. Sorry, but I think you're out of luck and should probably return them and get the Panasonic glasses.


----------



## nareciss

Hello,thanx for the tips next time i will check before.


----------



## nareciss

Hello,thanx for the tips next time i will check before.


----------



## G-Rex

RR, today I am finally ordering replacement 3d glasses due to the disappointing chargeless Monster glasses.


1) Are we 100% certain that the below Optoma glasses from Amazon are the "exact" same as the Curt Palm glasses and WILL work with the old monster RF emitter like the CP?

http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF2100GLS-Active-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364561280&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+3d+glasses[/quote ]

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm 


2) Is the pairing with the old Monster emitter automatic or does it manually have to be paired. If so can you link me or state how to pair them?


Thanks!!


----------



## Rolls-Royce

They appear to be the same, but the photos don't show all angles. If you get them, and the power switch is a round button on the underside of the right temple, they should be the same. Pairing should happen as soon as the glasses are turned on with the transmitter active. Be advised that this _may_ load older firmware from your emitter into the new glasses, potentially knocking out some of the new glasses' features such as easy lens reversal by momentarily pressing the power switch.


The older glasses are fully compatible with the newer emitter, so I have no reason to think the new glasses won't be compatible with the older emitter.


----------



## G-Rex

Thanks. Ordered the glasses yesterday. I didnt get the new emitter because it is not usb. The emitter has a cable that is for Optoma projectors (I believe it is a vesa cable). I didnt feel like having a custom cable made as I need usb powered so it works with my Sony SXRD.


----------



## j2037

Endless troubles with this Monster crap, doesn't work properly, so buggy, now the glasses don't turn on when synced, there just black.










Never charges correctly, POS, don't buy it trust me.


Noisy buzzing noise coming from battery area.



How to revert back to the original firmware?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Rex*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23242929
> 
> 
> Thanks. Ordered the glasses yesterday. I didnt get the new emitter because it is not usb. The emitter has a cable that is for Optoma projectors (I believe it is a vesa cable). I didnt feel like having a custom cable made as I need usb powered so it works with my Sony SXRD.



Actually, you can power the new emitter via USB. It's what has to be done when using an IR sensor instead of a VESA connector, like in the Monster setup. The new emitter seems identical to the old one, except for the firmware and the colors of the LEDs.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j2037*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23247419
> 
> 
> Endless troubles with this Monster crap, doesn't work properly, so buggy, now the glasses don't turn on when synced, there just black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never charges correctly, POS, don't buy it trust me.
> 
> 
> Noisy buzzing noise coming from battery area.
> 
> 
> 
> How to revert back to the original firmware?



Think maybe it's why Monster bailed out? The new ones (Optoma and VIP) are MUCH better.


----------



## KMR

I'm having some trouble. The emitter shows full green lights, but the glasses will flicker, turn very black, and just not seem to work. I thought it was just the glasses themselves, so I bought some Optoma ones here .


But the Optoma ones are doing the exact same thing. Is it the emitter maybe? Everything worked when I first bought the kit, about 4 to 5 hours worth of content, but nothing since then.


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23250270
> 
> 
> I'm having some trouble. The emitter shows full green lights, but the glasses will flicker, turn very black, and just not seem to work. I thought it was just the glasses themselves, so I bought some Optoma ones here .
> 
> 
> But the Optoma ones are doing the exact same thing. Is it the emitter maybe? Everything worked when I first bought the kit, about 4 to 5 hours worth of content, but nothing since then.


What content? I've noticed when I play back sbs or ou content through my WDTV I get flickering sometimes, but Frame packed works flawlessly.


----------



## KMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23250925
> 
> 
> What content? I've noticed when I play back sbs or ou content through my WDTV I get flickering sometimes, but Frame packed works flawlessly.



So far, I viewed the two later Final Destination movies without problem. Tonight I tried to watch Tangled. All through an older 'fat' PS3.


----------



## blipszyc

I have a fat PS3 too and no flickering when playing through it, so perhaps it's the emitter. Have you upgraded the firmware? You could try to do a factory reset on the emitter and see if that helps.


----------



## KMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23253513
> 
> 
> I have a fat PS3 too and no flickering when playing through it, so perhaps it's the emitter. Have you upgraded the firmware? You could try to do a factory reset on the emitter and see if that helps.



Well, I tried the factory defaults, and then a firmware upgrade, and the glasses no longer get super-dark. However, they still don't sych up properly. The image will look right for a few seconds, but then it will look as if I wasn't wearing the glasses as all, and then look normal again.


Thanks for the advice, but I guess the receiver is beyond repair.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23255682
> 
> 
> Well, I tried the factory defaults, and then a firmware upgrade, and the glasses no longer get super-dark. However, they still don't sych up properly. The image will look right for a few seconds, but then it will look as if I wasn't wearing the glasses as all, and then look normal again.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice, but I guess the receiver is beyond repair.



It may be your display. Some don't correctly lock to the input signal. The transmitter does, and so the sync between the glasses and display can drift, causing the kind of issue you're having.


----------



## j2037




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23253513
> 
> 
> I have a fat PS3 too and no flickering when playing through it, so perhaps it's the emitter. Have you upgraded the firmware? You could try to do a factory reset on the emitter and see if that helps.



This is what I had to do, factory reset of BOTH the emitter and glasses, then you must power on the glasses and sync them up, cause the emitter will upload the old or new firmware before you can use them.


This fixed my problem ^^^


Turn on PJ > play 3D movie > turn on glasses = working every time now. (Now don't freaking touch anything, lol)


Still not happy with the buzzing, but for me it's no problem cause I use headphones with the SVS A8 Realiser, so I cannot hear the buzzing while watching movies.


----------



## KMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j2037*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23265570
> 
> 
> This is what I had to do, factory reset of BOTH the emitter and glasses, then you must power on the glasses and sync them up, cause the emitter will upload the old or new firmware before you can use them.
> 
> 
> This fixed my problem ^^^
> 
> 
> Turn on PJ > play 3D movie > turn on glasses = working every time now. (Now don't freaking touch anything, lol)
> 
> 
> Still not happy with the buzzing, but for me it's no problem cause I use headphones with the SVS A8 Realiser, so I cannot hear the buzzing while watching movies.



Tried another factory reset of the emitter and both pairs of glasses with no luck. I'm not sure what else to try.


Is there another system like the MonsterVision kit?


----------



## JackVette

Hello,


I'm hoping I can get some insight.


I have a Sharp 90" TV and bought 2 pairs of the MonsterVision glasses.


The transmitter only showed the moving red light. I tried both transmitters and same situation. I tried placing the receiver at many locations... No luck.


I read about the firmware upgrade process and thought I'd try that. A previous thread mentioned that the Sharp codes were updated.


I followed the upgrade process exactly. The screen said upgrade was completed and to unplug and plug in the transmitter again.


When I did so the PC no longer recognized the transmitter. The transmitter does not have any lights on it when plugged into the TV.


It has basically been bricked I think.


I tried the factory reset option by moving the joystick to the left. That did nothing but turn on one red LED.


Any ideas. I emailed Monster.


----------



## adidino

Still have a pair of the Monster 3D glasses if anyone is interested. Original packaging, mint condition. Does not include RF transmitter though. Glasses only - condition is mint. No issues charging issues. Work fine.


----------



## JulianVL

Got a brand new pair of glasses, setup was a breeze with my Sony HW50ES PJ. So far I'm not impressed










What's hot:

Worked pretty much OK out of the box.

Compared to the Sony 3D glasses, the MAX are much more comfy especially with optical glasses.

Light, light, light


What's not:

My unit is buzzing from time to time, it's pretty annoying and distracting. I'll give it a couple of hours, may it will "break in" and the buzzing will go away. If not, I'll have to open it up and look for the culprit inductor









There is some bleeding/ghosting that I experience. I've tried several settings adjusting the delay and duty cycle, did not manage to clean it up and get a decent brightness. I'll retry with a reference 3D clip

The build in general and power button especially are flimsy compared to the Sony goggles


----------



## FalseAnimal

Is the Monster Vision emitter compatible with any other glasses?


Has anyone used the system with an Epson 5010 projector?


Is anyone currently using the system and happy with it? or not?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FalseAnimal*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23737677
> 
> 
> Is the Monster Vision emitter compatible with any other glasses?
> 
> 
> Has anyone used the system with an Epson 5010 projector?
> 
> 
> Is anyone currently using the system and happy with it? or not?



The MV emitter is made by Bit Cauldron, and uses Zigbee, not Bluetooth, as its RF system. It is only compatible with glasses made by Bit Cauldron, which include Monster, Optoma, VIP, 3DNow, and now EStar. To use it with any display, the display must either have a 3D sync port (to plug in the emitter), or use IR (then the Bit Cauldron IR receiver dongle must be attached to the emitter to convert IR sync signals to RF). IIRC, the Monster Vision kit included the IR dongle as well as the RF emitter.


We've been using VIP, Optoma, 3DNow, and EStar transmitters and glasses for over 2 years now, and like them a lot.


----------



## videohot

A suggestion, you can get for around $30 or so, on ebay, the emitter and associated cables. I have 2 Optoma branded glasses I bought seperatly, which hold their charge just fine and one pair of the Monstervision ones. The monstervision don't hold a charge and have to be recharged before each movie. Don't buy them.


Larry


----------



## PhilipSosie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackVette*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_23332616
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm hoping I can get some insight.
> 
> 
> I have a Sharp 90" TV and bought 2 pairs of the MonsterVision glasses.
> 
> 
> The transmitter only showed the moving red light. I tried both transmitters and same situation. I tried placing the receiver at many locations... No luck.
> 
> 
> I read about the firmware upgrade process and thought I'd try that. A previous thread mentioned that the Sharp codes were updated.
> 
> 
> I followed the upgrade process exactly. The screen said upgrade was completed and to unplug and plug in the transmitter again.
> 
> 
> When I did so the PC no longer recognized the transmitter. The transmitter does not have any lights on it when plugged into the TV.
> 
> 
> It has basically been bricked I think.
> 
> 
> I tried the factory reset option by moving the joystick to the left. That did nothing but turn on one red LED.
> 
> 
> Any ideas. I emailed Monster.



One Center LED on and staying on means the BC100 is still waiting for new firmware. You may want to attempt the warranty-voiding act of stuffing the new EStar America BC100 firmware into it.
http://www.estaramerica.com/upgrade-utility.html 

If the upgrade still fails there is some troubleshooting in the manual that you can try.


I can confirm that the EStar America BC100 Emitter (with the BC10 IR Decoder) works on the 52" SHARP LC52LE925UN.


----------



## DaViD Boulet

Hi all,


has anyone tried the Monster/Optima RF emitter with the Sony 55ES projector? I'm wondering how it connects... via an actual RF port or using an IR-RF converter?


thanks!


----------



## Rolls-Royce

The Monster kit originally came with an IR receiver dongle that the RF emitter plugged in to. The user would then have to supply 5V power to the emitter via a rear-mounted mini USB port. If your projector has an external 3D sync port (looks like a miniature mouse/keyboard port), you should be OK.


And I believe EStar America has an IR receiver dongle (they call it the BC-10 IR Decoder) that is the same as the Monster one. It works with any of the Bit Cauldron-sourced emitters (Monster, VIP, Optoma, EStar, etc.).


----------



## ecossecableman

On / off button doesn't work. Is that it buggered?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_24289503
> 
> 
> On / off button doesn't work. Is that it buggered?



What glasses do you have? The ONLY Bit Cauldron-sourced RF glasses that have an on/off capability are those sold by EStar. The VIP, Monster, and Optoma do not. They will automatically turn off after 5 minutes if they aren't receiving a sync signal.


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_24290708
> 
> 
> What glasses do you have? The ONLY Bit Cauldron-sourced RF glasses that have an on/off capability are those sold by EStar. The VIP, Monster, and Optoma do not. They will automatically turn off after 5 minutes if they aren't receiving a sync signal.



Respectfully that's incorrect. These Monsters DO have an on/off power button. The damn thing won't switch in tho


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_24291492
> 
> 
> Respectfully that's incorrect. These Monsters DO have an on/off power button. The damn thing won't switch in tho


No, the button is only an ON button. There is no OFF function, and as Rolls-Royce said, they power off when no signal found after a set time.


Are you saying that you can't turn them On?


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_24291639
> 
> 
> No, the button is only an ON button. There is no OFF function, and as Rolls-Royce said, they power off when no signal found after a set time.
> 
> 
> Are you saying that you can't turn them On?



No it's an on / off button. It clearly states it in the booklet. And no I can't them on OR OFF


Red lights continues to flash when I press button. And when I'm charging it says on all the time


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24291765
> 
> 
> No it's an on / off button. It clearly states it in the booklet. And no I can't them on OR OFF
> 
> 
> Red lights continues to flash when I press button. And when I'm charging it says on all the time


Sound like they're working just fine. The lights will flash while charging and turn off when complete. Also, the lights will flash when turned on, but the light will turn off when a signal is found and sync'd so as not to interfere with viewing. And as mentioned, the glasses will turn themselves off after lack of signal.


Are you able to watch 3D with them?


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24292219
> 
> 
> Sound like they're working just fine. The lights will flash while charging and turn off when complete. Also, the lights will flash when turned on, but the light will turn off when a signal is found and sync'd so as not to interfere with viewing. And as mentioned, the glasses will turn themselves off after lack of signal.
> 
> 
> Are you able to watch 3D with them?



HI


As stated they don't turn off when fully charged. EVER. Red lights remains on


No light doesn't turn off. It stays flashing all the time - but 5 green lights are showing in the other device


Respectfully, of course it's not showing 3 D


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24292274
> 
> 
> HI
> 
> 
> As stated they don't turn off when fully charged. EVER. Red lights remains on
> 
> 
> No light doesn't turn off. It stays flashing all the time - but 5 green lights are showing in the other device
> 
> 
> Respectfully, of course it's not showing 3 D


If you're not getting 3D, despite 5 green lights, it does then sound like there is a problem with them. Have you tried updating the firmware? To do so, you need to plug the piece with the 5 green lights into a PC, update the firmware on that device, and then replug it in to the projector. I don't recall the resync procedure, but it should be in the manual. When the glassed re-sync, the new firmware will be downloaded into them.


If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to return or replace them under warranty if they're new.


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24292303
> 
> 
> If you're not getting 3D, despite 5 green lights, it does then sound like there is a problem with them. Have you tried updating the firmware? To do so, you need to plug the piece with the 5 green lights into a PC, update the firmware on that device, and then replug it in to the projector. I don't recall the resync procedure, but it should be in the manual. When the glassed re-sync, the new firmware will be downloaded into them.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to return or replace them under warranty if they're new.



Thx. I had no idea u could update the firmware. Ill try it


It's not a PJ its a tv. The wire sits near the 3 D sensor


No warranty


Maybe the problem IS they're not synching to the small device


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/960#post_24291639
> 
> 
> No, the button is only an ON button. There is no OFF function, and as Rolls-Royce said, they power off when no signal found after a set time.
> 
> 
> Are you saying that you can't turn them On?



You beat me to it!










ecossecableman: The Monster glasses were of the early series of Bit Cauldron-produced glasses. These would produce a slow rhythmic pulsing of the red LED (called "heartbeat" by BC) on the glasses when they were fully charged. Unfortunately, many of these glasses developed problems due to out-of-spec resistors in their charging circuits, and it sounds like yours may have fallen victim to this. The problem surfaced not only in Monster-branded glasses, but in those rebranded and sold by other companies. Bit Cauldron did locate and correct the problem, but Monster had gotten out of that business by the time the fix was incorporated.


There is a happy ending to this. The later Bit Cauldron glasses do not suffer from the charging issue, are available from VIP, Optoma, and EStar, and will work perfectly with your Monster emitter, so you can replace the glasses but don't have to buy a new emitter. BC also left the "heartbeat" charging indicator behind: the newer glasses have an LED that turns off when charging is complete. And the EStar glasses do have an on-off function on their power switch. The VIP glasses use their power switch for On only (still auto-shutoff), but also use it to quickly reverse glasses polarity.


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24292645
> 
> 
> You beat me to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ecossecableman: The Monster glasses were of the early series of Bit Cauldron-produced glasses. These would produce a slow rhythmic pulsing of the red LED (called "heartbeat" by BC) on the glasses when they were fully charged. Unfortunately, many of these glasses developed problems due to out-of-spec resistors in their charging circuits, and it sounds like yours may have fallen victim to this. The problem surfaced not only in Monster-branded glasses, but in those rebranded and sold by other companies. Bit Cauldron did locate and correct the problem, but Monster had gotten out of that business by the time the fix was incorporated.
> 
> 
> There is a happy ending to this. The later Bit Cauldron glasses do not suffer from the charging issue, are available from VIP, Optoma, and EStar, and will work perfectly with your Monster emitter, so you can replace the glasses but don't have to buy a new emitter. BC also left the "heartbeat" charging indicator behind: the newer glasses have an LED that turns off when charging is complete. And the EStar glasses do have an on-off function on their power switch. The VIP glasses use their power switch for On only (still auto-shutoff), but also use it to quickly reverse glasses polarity.



now THAT is GREAT to hear. Incidentally before I do that where might I try to update the firmware


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24296119
> 
> 
> now THAT is GREAT to hear. Incidentally before I do that where might I try to update the firmware



Check out the EStar America website. They have a USB-based upgrade and control utility. Not only can you use it to update your emitter to the latest 1.06xx firmware (this might work with your emitter and it might not), but it allows you to fine tune glasses delay and duty cycle from a computer without having to futz with that joystick on the emitter.


----------



## ecossecableman

Many thx for that info RR


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24298662
> 
> 
> Many thx for that info RR



You bet. Hope you get it all up and running. Adding 3D capability via the Theatre/emitter/glasses has been the one upgrade I've made to our HT gear that the wife absolutely loves!


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24298914
> 
> 
> You bet. Hope you get it all up and running. Adding 3D capability via the Theatre/emitter/glasses has been the one upgrade I've made to our HT gear that the wife absolutely loves!



well I connected to the Estar site. downloaded the upgrade utility and ran it with the emitter connected to my PC


My current frequency is 0.000 surely that not right?


I clicked on upgrade.


firmware is showing v1.06.204 before and after I ran upgrade


I thought Id checked with the old Monster glasses anyway


NOW THE EMITTER ISNT PICKING UP THE 3D SYNCH AT ALL- NO GREEN LIGHTS ONLY RED FLASHING


confused? you bet!


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24312127
> 
> 
> well I connected to the Estar site. downloaded the upgrade utility and ran it with the emitter connected to my PC
> 
> 
> My current frequency is 0.000 surely that not right?
> 
> 
> I clicked on upgrade.
> 
> 
> firmware is showing v1.06.204 before and after I ran upgrade
> 
> 
> I thought Id checked with the old Monster glasses anyway
> 
> 
> NOW THE EMITTER ISNT PICKING UP THE 3D SYNCH AT ALL- NO GREEN LIGHTS ONLY RED FLASHING
> 
> 
> confused? you bet!



The actual firmware in the emitter is reported at the bottom of the utility's window. The firmware number shown on the upgrade tab will not change, it is the firmware version that version of the utility comes with. The emitter has to be connected via the sync cable to an ACTIVE sync source (with 3D programming running) and via USB to the computer before the utility will report a frequency.


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24312490
> 
> 
> The actual firmware in the emitter is reported at the bottom of the utility's window. The firmware number shown on the upgrade tab will not change, it is the firmware version that version of the utility comes with. The emitter has to be connected via the sync cable to an ACTIVE sync source (with 3D programming running) and via USB to the computer before the utility will report a frequency.



thx the emitter is showing v1.04.005


----------



## ecossecableman

damn damn damn


two things


the Optoma DLP-Link 3D Glasses ZD302 glasses I bought are probably the wrong ones for the emitter BUT they synch up to my Sony PJ and TV THEN they quickly lose the synch - thoughts?



BUT MORE WORRYINGLY: now my Sony BR100 spex wont work with my Sony PJ BUT still work with my Sony TV


the other Sony spex I have that came with the PJ work just fine still


confused!!!!!!



any advice appreciated plz


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24313776
> 
> 
> thx the emitter is showing v1.04.005



That's the original Monster firmware version.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ecossecableman*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24313863
> 
> 
> damn damn damn
> 
> 
> two things
> 
> 
> the Optoma DLP-Link 3D Glasses ZD302 glasses I bought are probably the wrong ones for the emitter BUT they synch up to my Sony PJ and TV THEN they quickly lose the synch - thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> BUT MORE WORRYINGLY: now my Sony BR100 spex wont work with my Sony PJ BUT still work with my Sony TV
> 
> 
> the other Sony spex I have that came with the PJ work just fine still
> 
> 
> confused!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> any advice appreciated plz



I'm surprised that the Optomas even try to sync with your Sony products since neither of them is likely to be DLP, but that's the reason they don't hold sync. The glasses for the Monster/VIP/Estar/Optoma emitters have to be the RF ones from one of those four companies. Other RF glasses (Panasonic, Samsung, etc.) won't work since the protocols used are different.


Concerning your Sony glasses, I don't have any idea. Perhaps the TV has received a firmware update that updated the glasses and caused them to stop working with the PJ?


----------



## ecossecableman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24314845
> 
> 
> I'm surprised that the Optomas even try to sync with your Sony products since neither of them is likely to be DLP, but that's the reason they don't hold sync. The glasses for the Monster/VIP/Estar/Optoma emitters have to be the RF ones from one of those four companies. Other RF glasses (Panasonic, Samsung, etc.) won't work since the protocols used are different.
> 
> 
> Concerning your Sony glasses, I don't have any idea. Perhaps the TV has received a firmware update that updated the glasses and caused them to stop working with the PJ?



You and me both RR but synch it most certainly did-many times


now if only i could get the old BR100s working again with the 1000ES PJ THATS A MYSTERY EH?


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24292645
> 
> 
> You beat me to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ecossecableman: The Monster glasses were of the early series of Bit Cauldron-produced glasses. These would produce a slow rhythmic pulsing of the red LED (called "heartbeat" by BC) on the glasses when they were fully charged. Unfortunately, many of these glasses developed problems due to out-of-spec resistors in their charging circuits, and it sounds like yours may have fallen victim to this. The problem surfaced not only in Monster-branded glasses, but in those rebranded and sold by other companies. Bit Cauldron did locate and correct the problem, but Monster had gotten out of that business by the time the fix was incorporated.
> 
> 
> There is a happy ending to this. The later Bit Cauldron glasses do not suffer from the charging issue, are available from VIP, Optoma, and EStar, and will work perfectly with your Monster emitter, so you can replace the glasses but don't have to buy a new emitter. BC also left the "heartbeat" charging indicator behind: the newer glasses have an LED that turns off when charging is complete. And the EStar glasses do have an on-off function on their power switch. The VIP glasses use their power switch for On only (still auto-shutoff), but also use it to quickly reverse glasses polarity.



The kits (Glasses + RF Emitter) from Optoma (ZD2100), EStar and VIP are compatible with the IR sensor of Monster Vision Max 3D?


EStar seem doesn't international shipping. I have tried to contact them but no response to my emails (It must be that they do not want to sell !!!).

From what I've seen the EStar are cheaper than VIP and Optoma.


Thanks.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24476318
> 
> 
> The kits (Glasses + RF Emitter) from Optoma (ZD2100), EStar and VIP are compatible with the IR sensor of Monster Vision Max 3D?
> 
> 
> EStar seem doesn't international shipping. I have tried to contact them but no response to my emails (It must be that they do not want to sell !!!).
> 
> From what I've seen the EStar are cheaper than VIP and Optoma.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The sensor, emitters, and glasses are all made by Bit Cauldron, so they are interchangeable. You will have to provide separate USB power to the RF emitter when using the IR sensor.


EStar's products can be found on Amazon, and I'm sure they or their UK branch would be willing to ship to you. Where are you in Spain? I was stationed at Torrejon de Ardoz outside Madrid back in the late 1970s.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24477017
> 
> 
> The sensor, emitters, and glasses are all made by Bit Cauldron, so they are interchangeable. You will have to provide separate USB power to the RF emitter when using the IR sensor.
> 
> 
> EStar's products can be found on Amazon, and I'm sure they or their UK branch would be willing to ship to you. Where are you in Spain? I was stationed at Torrejon de Ardoz outside Madrid back in the late 1970s.



Thanks. Do you know any URL where you found the EsStar kit from uk? In amazon.co.uk not sell the kit.


I live in Barcelona. A while ago in SpectraCal forum you commented me that you were stationed at Torrejon. Did you make any visit to Barcelona?


Best Regards.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24477096
> 
> 
> Thanks. Do you know any URL where you found the EsStar kit from uk? In amazon.co.uk not sell the kit.
> 
> 
> I live in Barcelona. A while ago in SpectraCal forum you commented me that you were stationed at Torrejon. Did you make any visit to Barcelona?
> 
> 
> Best Regards.



Actually, I've only seen the EStar products on the US website, and haven't really ever been on the UK one. Philip Sosie from EStar is a member here. If you PM hm, he may be able to help.


I never made it to Barcelona, but stayed around Madrid and its environs including Toledo and Lake Benidorm. Some of the men I worked with made it to Costa del Sol on holiday weekends. They came back sunburned and speaking in awe of the nude beaches...


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24477246
> 
> 
> Actually, I've only seen the EStar products on the US website, and haven't really ever been on the UK one. Philip Sosie from EStar is a member here. If you PM hm, he may be able to help.
> 
> 
> I never made it to Barcelona, but stayed around Madrid and its environs including Toledo and Lake Benidorm. Some of the men I worked with made it to Costa del Sol on holiday weekends. They came back sunburned and speaking in awe of the nude beaches...



I'll try to communicate with Philip Sosie but from what I see in Philip profile that does not connect to the forum for months.


It is a pity that you do not visited Barcelona is a beautiful city.


Thanks.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24477246
> 
> 
> Actually, I've only seen the EStar products on the US website, and haven't really ever been on the UK one. Philip Sosie from EStar is a member here. If you PM hm, he may be able to help.
> 
> 
> I never made it to Barcelona, but stayed around Madrid and its environs including Toledo and Lake Benidorm. Some of the men I worked with made it to Costa del Sol on holiday weekends. They came back sunburned and speaking in awe of the nude beaches...



I sent him a private message but does not respond.


I am considering the 3D-VIP kit from curtpalme.


----------



## Drakul

I'm sure this has been asked before but is there a way to check the battery status? Even through a software??

It's driving me insane when I'm about to watch a movie not to know if I have enough battery to watch it or if it's a waste to recharge them.


I also can't seen to figured out how to tell if the glasses are charging or not.


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Drakul*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24499559
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before but is there a way to check the battery status? Even through a software??
> 
> It's driving me insane when I'm about to watch a movie not to know if I have enough battery to watch it or if it's a waste to recharge them.
> 
> 
> I also can't seen to figured out how to tell if the glasses are charging or not.


I believe when you turn them on, they blink - the number and speed of the blinks indicates battery level. I ended up buying a USB hub and just keep them plugged in all the time.


As for charging, the red light stays lit while mine are charging and then goes out when finished.


----------



## Drakul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blipszyc*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24501990
> 
> 
> I believe when you turn them on, they blink - the number and speed of the blinks indicates battery level. I ended up buying a USB hub and just keep them plugged in all the time.
> 
> 
> As for charging, the red light stays lit while mine are charging and then goes out when finished.



hm I always assumed the blinking when you turn it on was the glasses searching for the signal...


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Drakul*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24502538
> 
> 
> hm I always assumed the blinking when you turn it on was the glasses searching for the signal...


I can't remember the exact order, but I believe the battery indication comes first, then a steady blink while it looks for the signal. Once the signal is found, the light goes out so as to not distract during the movie.


EDIT: Found this chart:


----------



## Drakul

Thanks for that. I'll save it somewhere.


----------



## Toknowshita

Did anyone ever figure out how to fix the charging circuit in the old monster glasses?


----------



## Joseph MAK

My Monster battery life is getting shorter and shorter. Looking for a replacement. I am under the impression either Estar ESG6000 or Optoma (ZD2100) are compatible with the Monster's sensor. Am I right?


Other than battery life, are there other improvements in these models?


Thanks.


----------



## blipszyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph MAK*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/990#post_24510123
> 
> 
> My Monster battery life is getting shorter and shorter. Looking for a replacement. I am under the impression either Estar ESG6000 or Optoma (ZD2100) are compatible with the Monster's sensor. Am I right?
> 
> 
> Other than battery life, are there other improvements in these models?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I don't recall much else being changed. I think the shape changed a little, and from what I remember reading from another member, he liked the new shape better. I think there might have been a new function added to the power button as well. If you hold it down a bit longer, it will switch the polarity. Previously you could only do that with the emitter or software. I think that's it.


----------



## fpr

Is there a difference between the 3D-VIP, EStar and Optoma ZF2100 glasses (lens tint,...)? or are they the same glasses?


Thanks.


----------



## rekbones

I have 1 of the Optomas and 2 of the EStars and they look identical to me


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rekbones*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24529088
> 
> 
> I have 1 of the Optomas and 2 of the EStars and they look identical to me



Thanks.


Has anyone been able to compare the 3D-VIP galsses with the EStar and optoma glasses?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24531094
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to compare the 3D-VIP galsses with the EStar and optoma glasses?



I have the newer VIP and EStar glasses. They are functionally identical performance-wise, except that EStar uses the power button as an on-off switch, while VIP uses the button to power on, and also to reverse glasses polarity with a momentary press. Shutdown with the VIP (and optionally with the EStars) happens automatically after 5 minutes without a signal from the emitter. My Optomas are the old style, so I can't comment on them vs the newer design.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24532850
> 
> 
> I have the newer VIP and EStar glasses. They are functionally identical performance-wise, except that EStar uses the power button as an on-off switch, while VIP uses the button to power on, and also to reverse glasses polarity with a momentary press. Shutdown with the VIP (and optionally with the EStars) happens automatically after 5 minutes without a signal from the emitter. My Optomas are the old style, so I can't comment on them vs the newer design.



Changing the polarity with the on-off button does not quite convince me, you never know which is the polarity of each glass.

I had read that the 3D-VIP glasses make noise (hum) while they are working, is this true? and the EStar make noise ?


I did not find any vendor of EStar that makes shipping to Spain.


----------



## LVS

^ I have not heard any noise or hum from my EStar glasses. Haven't tried the 3D-VIP.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24535316
> 
> 
> Changing the polarity with the on-off button does not quite convince me, you never know which is the polarity of each glass.
> 
> I had read that the 3D-VIP glasses make noise (hum) while they are working, is this true? and the EStar make noise ?
> 
> 
> I did not find any vendor of EStar that makes shipping to Spain.



There is no indicator for polarity. But, if it's reversed, you'll either see no 3D, or you'll feel like you're cross-eyed. Having the ability to easily switch polarity without adjusting the fiddly little joystick on the emitter or using the PC-based control utility is nice as far as I'm concerned.


I haven't heard hum on any of my Bit Cauldron sourced (VIP, Optoma, EStar) glasses either!


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24538172
> 
> 
> There is no indicator for polarity. But, if it's reversed, you'll either see no 3D, or you'll feel like you're cross-eyed. Having the ability to easily switch polarity without adjusting the fiddly little joystick on the emitter or using the PC-based control utility is nice as far as I'm concerned.
> 
> 
> I haven't heard hum on any of my Bit Cauldron sourced (VIP, Optoma, EStar) glasses either!



the Optoma RF emitter is the same as the EStar/3D-VIP? I have read the manual from Optoma and not says that I can use the IR sensor.


Thanks


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24554599
> 
> 
> the Optoma RF emitter is the same as the EStar/3D-VIP? I have read the manual from Optoma and not says that I can use the IR sensor.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have both, and they are identical except for the firmware version, the color of the LEDs, and the sticker on the back. They can all use the IR sensor to provide the sync. However, because the IR sensor does not power the emitter the way a regular sync port does, you will have to provide USB power to the emitter via its micro USB jack.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24555549
> 
> 
> I have both, and they are identical except for the firmware version, the color of the LEDs, and the sticker on the back. They can all use the IR sensor to provide the sync. However, because the IR sensor does not power the emitter the way a regular sync port does, you will have to provide USB power to the emitter via its micro USB jack.



Then, to activate the IR sensor is the same in all RF-emitters or depends on the firmware?


Thanks.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24555601
> 
> 
> Then, to activate the IR sensor is the same in all RF-emitters or depends on the firmware?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I just read the manual operations from EStar support page I read that when the IR sensor is connected automatically switches to IR mode.


Thanks.


----------



## fpr

I just received my Optoma RF ZF2100 kit.

I see that the glasses are very small. 3D-VIP are the same size? For my taste I prefer the largest lens, I do not like to see the edges of the glasses.


----------



## fpr

Does anyone have the latest model of ZF2100 Optoma (Bit Cauldron 6000)?

When I put to charge the red light comes on for a while (at most 1 minute), then goes off and a blue light flashes until it is turned off. Is this normal? The manual specifies that when charging a red light come on and turns off when the

glasses are fully charged.

The store that sold me says that happens with all the glasses and I have to leave the charge even if the light is off.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24592441
> 
> 
> I just received my Optoma RF ZF2100 kit.
> 
> I see that the glasses are very small. 3D-VIP are the same size? For my taste I prefer the largest lens, I do not like to see the edges of the glasses.



All the current Bit Cauldron-sourced glasses (Optoma, VIP, EStar) are the same size. The earlier generation glasses had larger lenses, but some also had the charging circuit issue, don't work as well as the newer ones (IMHO), appear to be darker than the new ones, etc.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24597523
> 
> 
> All the current Bit Cauldron-sourced glasses (Optoma, VIP, EStar) are the same size. The earlier generation glasses had larger lenses, but some also had the charging circuit issue, don't work as well as the newer ones (IMHO), appear to be darker than the new ones, etc.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24596791
> 
> 
> Does anyone have the latest model of ZF2100 Optoma (Bit Cauldron 6000)?
> 
> When I put to charge the red light comes on for a while (at most 1 minute), then goes off and a blue light flashes until it is turned off. Is this normal? The manual specifies that when charging a red light come on and turns off when the
> 
> glasses are fully charged.
> 
> The store that sold me says that happens with all the glasses and I have to leave the charge even if the light is off.



Do you think that my glasses may have broken the charging circuit?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24598555
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think that my glasses may have broken the charging circuit?



Possibly, but I've also seen that with new glasses and they worked fine after being fully charged. This is their first charging, right? If you haven't already, give them the full charging time called for in the users manual, then allow them to sync with the emitter (with 3D content running). See if that helps. If not, it's time to contact the merchant you bought them from or Optoma.


Another thought: what are you using to charge them? If it's a laptop's USB ports, some of those are notorious for low voltage.


----------



## fpr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24599798
> 
> 
> Possibly, but I've also seen that with new glasses and they worked fine after being fully charged. This is their first charging, right? If you haven't already, give them the full charging time called for in the users manual, then allow them to sync with the emitter (with 3D content running). See if that helps. If not, it's time to contact the merchant you bought them from or Optoma.
> 
> 
> Another thought: what are you using to charge them? If it's a laptop's USB ports, some of those are notorious for low voltage.



Yes, this is the first charge.


First I tried with a USB HUB and then tried charging with a USB power adapter (of my phone Samsung). In both cases the red light comes on and goes off after a while (one or two minutes), then blink on the blue light and after turns off.

It is possible that is fully charged and the red light goes off for this reason? ( (When I turn on the glasses the blue ligth blink 3 times).


At the moment I can not test with my projector because I'm hoping that arrive me the Monster Vision IR sensor that I buy in eBay.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fpr*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24599951
> 
> 
> Yes, this is the first charge.
> 
> 
> First I tried with a USB HUB and then tried charging with a USB power adapter (of my phone Samsung). In both cases the red light comes on and goes off after a while (one or two minutes), then blink on the blue light and after turns off.
> 
> It is possible that is fully charged and the red light goes off for this reason? ( (When I turn on the glasses the blue ligth blink 3 times).
> 
> 
> At the moment I can not test with my projector because I'm hoping that arrive me the Monster Vision IR sensor that I buy in eBay.



I was looking at the Sharp manual online and saw that the IR emitter it comes with appears to use a cable with 3.5 mm phono plugs. The back of the EStar emitter has a similar sync-in port. Perhaps you might try attaching the emitter to the projector using the Sharp cable for a quick test and see what happens...


----------



## gonzalc3

I have a pair of the estar glasses (6100) and its emitter. I am using it with a JVC RS65 projector and it works but it seems to cause eye strain...my guess is that its default settings should be adjusted...hass anyone experience this, if so what did you guys adjusted to make them work properly?

Thanks,


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24620999
> 
> 
> I have a pair of the estar glasses (6100) and its emitter. I am using it with a JVC RS65 projector and it works but it seems to cause eye strain...my guess is that its default settings should be adjusted...hass anyone experience this, if so what did you guys adjusted to make them work properly?
> 
> Thanks,



I strongly suggest you go to EStar America's website and download their USB control/update utility. It allows you to adjust polarity, delay, and duty cycle from a computer instead of using the emitter's joystick, which can be a PITA. If you're getting eyestrain, is it from feeling crosseyed at times? If so, your glasses polarity is probably reversed.


----------



## Witchboard

I just got a few of the Monster glasses and was charging them. What do the LEDs do when they are fully charged? Mine blink steady, but seem to go off after about 5 minutes. I'm using a 4 Amp, 5VDC charger as I read other may not have enough amperage to properly charge them, but it's not making much difference.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Witchboard*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24690494
> 
> 
> I just got a few of the Monster glasses and was charging them. What do the LEDs do when they are fully charged? Mine blink steady, but seem to go off after about 5 minutes. I'm using a 4 Amp, 5VDC charger as I read other may not have enough amperage to properly charge them, but it's not making much difference.



That generation used the LED "heartbeat" to show they were charged. The red LED would cycle from dim to bright and back again, appearing to pulse like a heartbeat. Many also had issues with their charging circuits in that they would fail to take or hold a charge for the claimed length of time.


----------



## Witchboard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24691022
> 
> 
> That generation used the LED "heartbeat" to show they were charged. The red LED would cycle from dim to bright and back again, appearing to pulse like a heartbeat. Many also had issues with their charging circuits in that they would fail to take or hold a charge for the claimed length of time.



Thanks. I left them plugged in and they did eventually produce the heartbeat. So I guess they are working as designed. I was expecting some kind of charging indicator, but apparently, the blink for a few minutes, then don't give any indication they are charging until they are done. I've upgraded the FW on my emitter using the Bit Cauldron utility, but is this the same utility used to tweak the glasses? I understand the FW of the glasses are updated via the emitter, but if I'm wanting to modify the settings of the glasses is it the same utility? It doesn't seem to recognize the glasses when I plug them into my computer. Is there another utility specifically for the glasses themselves? I've browsed through the thread, but haven't seen a specific answer, though with one this lengthy I could have missed it.


----------



## rekbones

You use the same software to tweak the emitter, the glasses respond to the setting in the emitter.


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rekbones*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24694211
> 
> 
> You use the same software to tweak the emitter, the glasses respond to the setting in the emitter.



Yep. What he said!


----------



## Witchboard

Ah, gotcha. Thanks guys.


----------



## Witchboard

One last question guys. Is there a database of suggested settings for different models of televisions?


----------



## Rolls-Royce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Witchboard*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24702698
> 
> 
> One last question guys. Is there a database of suggested settings for different models of televisions?



Not really. There are some suggestions for different technologies (plasma, LCD, etc.), but not for specific models. Look for the online user's/setup guides at EStar America and 3D-VIP's websites. Some have settings for duty cycle and delay for different display types.


----------



## rogerthat1945


In line with the general topic of the thread (3D and AV [amp] PC gear)

 

If any half-novice out there needs a vid on how to connect an amp to a couple of monitors, one of which is stereoscopic 3D, and also with an added blu-ray player (or HD-DVD) here is the vid.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CmMCUp1ZJw

 

My noob vid.


----------



## Witchboard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rolls-Royce*  /t/1322752/official-monster-vision-max-3d-thread/1020#post_24703344
> 
> 
> Not really. There are some suggestions for different technologies (plasma, LCD, etc.), but not for specific models. Look for the online user's/setup guides at EStar America and 3D-VIP's websites. Some have settings for duty cycle and delay for different display types.



Thanks again. Very helpful stuff guys. I appreciate it.


----------



## Drakul

These glasses are starting to drive me crazy. They work nicely but anything that has to do with battery is inane.
It's such a pain to figure out how much battery is left and how they charge.
I plug them in to a usb wall unit, nothing blinks
I plug them in to my pc, nothing blinks

the manual says 'hold the button and release and you will get 2 long blinks for 50% battery, 6 mediums for 10% or 12 quick for close to dead"
I get 3 blinks.....

W... T... H....


----------



## Rolls-Royce

Drakul said:


> These glasses are starting to drive me crazy. They work nicely but anything that has to do with battery is inane.
> It's such a pain to figure out how much battery is left and how they charge.
> I plug them in to a usb wall unit, nothing blinks
> I plug them in to my pc, nothing blinks
> 
> the manual says 'hold the button and release and you will get 2 long blinks for 50% battery, 6 mediums for 10% or 12 quick for close to dead"
> I get 3 blinks.....
> 
> W... T... H....


Which ones do you have? The latest ones have a red LED on the opposite temple from the charging connector that stays on until the glasses are charged, then it goes out. They will only do the rapid-flash charge indication of the blue LED next to the power switch when first turned on. The older models did a continuous slow dim-to-bright-and-back cycling of the red LED (called the "heartbeat") that indicated when they were fully charged.


----------



## Drakul

Rolls-Royce said:


> Which ones do you have? The latest ones have a red LED on the opposite temple from the charging connector that stays on until the glasses are charged, then it goes out. They will only do the rapid-flash charge indication of the blue LED next to the power switch when first turned on. The older models did a continuous slow dim-to-bright-and-back cycling of the red LED (called the "heartbeat") that indicated when they were fully charged.


I have the old ones, bought them in Dec. 2012. I know about the heartbeat but they don't do that.
Incidentally I watched Lego Movie in 3D last night and it worked perfect but it's so frustrating not knowing how much battery I have and if it's going to die in the middle of a movie.


----------



## The Knuckle

*monster vision 3d glasses*

I went to watch a 3d movie tonight and there was a horrible ghosting issue. I tried everything I could, I read the manual, tried to adjust the glasses with the joystick as instructed by the manual. When that did absolutely nothing I tried resetting the transmitter and glasses back to factory settings. It looks like the glasses reset but the transmitter does not. I then tried to download a firmware update with absolutely no luck.
I don't know what the hell happened, they used to work really good. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## spudz72

*BC300 Emitter and ZF2300GLASSES*

Has anyone else noticed that Optoma now has a BC300 Emitter and ZF2300GLASSES? They note these are not compatible with the ZF2100 glasses. You would think with the new emitter starting with the letters BC it would be Bit Cauldron technology but it must not be? I wonder if they are now using Bluetooth instead? Anyone have an idea?


----------



## Rolls-Royce

According to the Optoma website, the new glasses are capable of 96/100/120/144Hz (44/50/60/72Hz per eye). The older ones are only up to 120Hz. My guess is that they could have made them incompatible to avoid customer service issues due to the differences in supported refresh rates. Bit Cauldron may have also changed the frequencies their system operates on to avoid interference from everything else on the 2.4 gHz band.


----------



## spudz72

Rolls-Royce said:


> According to the Optoma website, the new glasses are capable of 96/100/120/144Hz (44/50/60/72Hz per eye). The older ones are only up to 120Hz. My guess is that they made them incompatible to avoid customer service issues due to the differences in supported refresh rates. Bit Cauldron may have also changed the frequencies their system operates on to avoid interference from everything else on the 2.4 gHz band.


I'm not seeing that. According to the specs I found for the ZF2100 they also support 144hz.. See below..

ZF2100 Glasses Specification
Model Name/ Part No	ZF2100 Glasses
Operating Frequencies	96/100/120/144Hz (44/50/60/72Hz per eye)
Operating Temperature	0'C - 40'C
Accessories	Soft Carry Case, Cleaning Cloth, 2x Nose Piece, USB Charging cable
Dimensions	170 x 168 x 40 (mm)
Weight	39g
Battery	Rechargeable Lithium Polymer - Up to 15 Hours use
Range	Up to 40m (Dependent on environment)
Storage Conditions	≤90% Humidity
Display Requirements	Projector / Display must have a “3D Sync” connector (VESA DIN3)

Source = http://www.optoma.co.uk/accessorydetail.aspx?PC=ZF2100+Glasses


----------



## Rolls-Royce

spudz72 said:


> I'm not seeing that. According to the specs I found for the ZF2100 they also support 144hz.. See below..
> 
> ZF2100 Glasses Specification
> Model Name/ Part No	ZF2100 Glasses
> Operating Frequencies	96/100/120/144Hz (44/50/60/72Hz per eye)
> Operating Temperature	0'C - 40'C
> Accessories	Soft Carry Case, Cleaning Cloth, 2x Nose Piece, USB Charging cable
> Dimensions	170 x 168 x 40 (mm)
> Weight	39g
> Battery	Rechargeable Lithium Polymer - Up to 15 Hours use
> Range	Up to 40m (Dependent on environment)
> Storage Conditions	≤90% Humidity
> Display Requirements	Projector / Display must have a “3D Sync” connector (VESA DIN3)
> 
> Source = http://www.optoma.co.uk/accessorydetail.aspx?PC=ZF2100+Glasses


My bad. The Optoma US website doesn't have the supported frequencies for the ZF2100 glasses...
However, the datasheet for the ZF2100 on the US website doesn't list 144Hz:
http://optomausa.com/webresources/files/support/2222_Optoma_BG-ZF2100GLS_Datasheet.pdf

Looks like their different national websites aren't receiving the same info, or it isn't being updated in a timely manner.


----------



## JoeGrizzly

blipszyc said:


> Quote: Originally Posted by *sjv*
> 
> Is the latest firmware update for the Monster Vision Max 3D glasses V. 1.05.004 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> This seems to be the latest. It updates your transmitter and glasses to the VIP version, which is the OEM software.
> 
> http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776


I haven't used my Monster 3D glasses in a year or so, now when I try to use them, they still work, but the picture is slightly out of focus. I don't have the same problem when using the glasses that came with my Optoma 3D-XL, so I'm just trying to figure out how to get the glasses back in focus. Does anybody have any quick tips on how I could do this? I tried holding the joystick on the transmitter to the left for 10 seconds to reset it, but it doesn't seem that does anything.

I downloaded this program and connected my transmitter via usb, but the transmitter just shows the red lights moving from side to side and the program says "Device Not Found" even after unplugging, restarting, etc.


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## blipszyc

JoeGrizzly said:


> I haven't used my Monster 3D glasses in a year or so, now when I try to use them, they still work, but the picture is slightly out of focus. I don't have the same problem when using the glasses that came with my Optoma 3D-XL, so I'm just trying to figure out how to get the glasses back in focus. Does anybody have any quick tips on how I could do this? I tried holding the joystick on the transmitter to the left for 10 seconds to reset it, but it doesn't seem that does anything.
> 
> I downloaded this program and connected my transmitter via usb, but the transmitter just shows the red lights moving from side to side and the program says "Device Not Found" even after unplugging, restarting, etc.


It might be that you have the polarity swapped. Flip the glasses upside down to verify. If so, I think with the latest firmware available, you can just hold the power button for 10-15 seconds to swap the polarity. 

As for connecting to your PC, I found that I had to completely delete the USB item to get it to be re-recognized.


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## JoeGrizzly

blipszyc said:


> It might be that you have the polarity swapped. Flip the glasses upside down to verify. If so, I think with the latest firmware available, you can just hold the power button for 10-15 seconds to swap the polarity.
> 
> As for connecting to your PC, I found that I had to completely delete the USB item to get it to be re-recognized.


Flipping them upside down doesn't seem to do anything. I held the power button down for 10-15 seconds and it caused the 3D effect to stop working and the light to flash red. When I hit the power button again to stop the light from flashing, the 3D effect comes back, but it's still out of focus. 

It's very weird because the 3D is working, but the text is not in focus. I'm just testing on the TRON menu screen where it has the text and effects together. The text is even more out of focus when you take the glasses off, so they're clearly doing something, but aren't setup properly. I would be ready to question my eye sight, but like I mentioned before, the 3D glasses that came with the 3D-XL don't have the same issue and my eye sight is pretty solid. 

Is there a way I can play around with the transmitter to try and adjust the settings? I read the instruction manual, but it's pretty confusing, and the transmitter is so minimal that it makes troubleshooting even more difficult when there's no clear notification of what you're doing on any sort of LED or on the screen.


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## blipszyc

JoeGrizzly said:


> Is there a way I can play around with the transmitter to try and adjust the settings? I read the instruction manual, but it's pretty confusing, and the transmitter is so minimal that it makes troubleshooting even more difficult when there's no clear notification of what you're doing on any sort of LED or on the screen.


There is a little joystick on the transmitter that lets you change the settings. The 5 LEDs on the transmitter will get lighter and darker depending on the direction you use the joystick.


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## JoeGrizzly

blipszyc said:


> There is a little joystick on the transmitter that lets you change the settings. The 5 LEDs on the transmitter will get lighter and darker depending on the direction you use the joystick.


Ok, but what directions should I push them in and what lights should I look for when trying to adjust for this issue? I tried reading the manual, but it's a bit tricky to know if you're in the correct settings and I'm not quite sure what settings I need to adjust to fix this issue.


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## blipszyc

JoeGrizzly said:


> Ok, but what directions should I push them in and what lights should I look for when trying to adjust for this issue? I tried reading the manual, but it's a bit tricky to know if you're in the correct settings and I'm not quite sure what settings I need to adjust to fix this issue.


The lights on the transmitter will light up as you press one direction or the other. 1 light is lowest setting, 5 lights is highest setting. To be honest, I don't think you're going to be able to fix this problem. It sounds like something is wrong with either the transmitter or the glasses themselves and I don't think any of the settings will correct out of focus issues. I got so fed up with the batteries in the Monster glasses that I ended up going back to IR.


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## horseflesh

Does anyone know if the Monster RF transmitter is compatible with XPAND RF glasses? 

Earlier in the thread I saw that this was probably not true, but Monster has also changed the TX design since then, I think... If anyone can confirm compatibility either way I would appreciate it!


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## blipszyc

horseflesh said:


> Does anyone know if the Monster RF transmitter is compatible with XPAND RF glasses?
> 
> Earlier in the thread I saw that this was probably not true, but Monster has also changed the TX design since then, I think... If anyone can confirm compatibility either way I would appreciate it!


The Monster's are actually made by Bit Cauldron so any of the other BC glasses would work. Optoma made a set and Bit Cauldron themselves, but I think XPAND made their own glasses and transmitter, so I doubt it would work.,


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## horseflesh

Got it, thanks!


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## Rolls-Royce

horseflesh said:


> Does anyone know if the Monster RF transmitter is compatible with XPAND RF glasses?
> 
> Earlier in the thread I saw that this was probably not true, but Monster has also changed the TX design since then, I think... If anyone can confirm compatibility either way I would appreciate it!


Not compatible. The BC (VIP, Optoma, Monster, and EStar) emitters and glasses use an RF system called Zigbee, and AFAIK, they are the only ones that do. All the other RF glasses are Bluetooth.


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## horseflesh

Thanks, appreciate it.


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## Sirapples

Just got a couple of pairs of these in the hope they could resolve some ghosting issues on my Sony KD-65X9000B. Does anyone know how to get the IR sync to work? When you use the Sony glasses you have to "register" them with the TV, I'm wondering if this is why it won't sync. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks.


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## Sirapples

Turns out that the Sony active 3D glasses use Bluetooth RF, hence why I can't sync the MonsterVisions as it's not an IR signal! Now, the tv doesn't have a 3-pin VESA input so I'm really left with only one possibility and that's there being a bluetooth adapter for the BC100 Emitter. Seems highly unlikely, but does anyone know or have another idea? thanks.


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## aboveave

Many thx for that info RR


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## jasonDono

*Will these work with Epsom 5030ub*

I have 4 pairs of the monster glasses. I was hoping they would work with my new Epson. Any chance?
Thanks,
Jason


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## derek

jasonDono said:


> I have 4 pairs of the monster glasses. I was hoping they would work with my new Epson. Any chance?
> Thanks,
> Jason


Epson uses Bluetooth RF and the Monsters Zigbee so they are incompatible. Ping me if you end up selling your Monster glasses.


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## sennor

Hi, I just bought 2 Max 3D glasses in hopes of reducing ghosting on my Samsung UN40FH6030. However, since I am unable to sync them up, I'm guessing my TV uses Bluetooth rather than IR sync (I haven't been able to find any info to confirm or deny this, but it seems the only logical explanation). I was wondering if there is any sort of converter for TVs that use Bluetooth sync that would make it compatible with the Max 3D? Thanks.


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## blipszyc

sennor said:


> Hi, I just bought 2 Max 3D glasses in hopes of reducing ghosting on my Samsung UN40FH6030. However, since I am unable to sync them up, I'm guessing my TV uses Bluetooth rather than IR sync (I haven't been able to find any info to confirm or deny this, but it seems the only logical explanation). I was wondering if there is any sort of converter for TVs that use Bluetooth sync that would make it compatible with the Max 3D? Thanks.


The glasses should've come with a cable that plugs into your TV that will take the 3D signal and convert it to the RF needed by the glasses. Perhaps your TV doesn't have this plug which means these will not work for you.


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## Thomos

I think these glasses deserve their own thread...
Just hooked up my pair and I must say they not only are a lighter shade
but they add more pop to the 3D image.

I like how you can fine tune the image and essentially tune down ghosting as much as possible. I am using the glasses on a 63" Samsung Plasma from about 10 feet away and its obvious they work much better than the Samsung glasses that I received with MVA kit.

It seems like the samsung glasses were never really tuned into the signal as clearly as the monsters are. The 3d is much more in your face.

The major benefit from these glasses is that they never go out of sync! The samsung's would do this constantly and it drove me nuts. The tape cure never worked for me. Its nice to finally get the full 3D from this TV.
Please share your questions, opinions and reviews


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## Thomos

I think these glasses deserve their own thread...
Just hooked up my pair and I must say they not only are a lighter shade
but they add more pop to the 3D image.

I like how you can fine tune the image and essentially tune down ghosting as much as possible. I am using the glasses on a 63" Samsung Plasma from about 10 feet away and its obvious they work much better than the Samsung glasses that I received with MVA kit.

It seems like the samsung glasses were never really tuned into the signal as clearly as the monsters are. The 3d is much more in your face.

The major benefit from these glasses is that they never go out of sync! The samsung's would do this constantly and it drove me nuts. The tape cure never worked for me. Its nice to finally get the full 3D from this TV.
Please share your questions, opinions and reviews


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## Alaric

Hi There,

Just got a pair of these glasses second-hand. The origional Monsters and they work and hold charge!!! 

I'm using a Mitsubishi HC9000 which I belive can be tricky to get good 3D on, but i'm working on it. Ocasionally in testing the image looks great, but then the scene changes and i get blurry bits. I love the fact that you can tweak the settings on these though that joystick, which is close to the projector and at distance from the screen means it's tricky.

I guess the way to do it is tweak the software settings, try, unplug, connect and tweak with the software again. Repeat until bored or a great picture?!?!?!

Interestingly the only source for the software i've found is an old VIP one off Curt's CRT site....the estar one is a dead link, Monster claim no knowledge and optima seem to want to flog you the 2300 version (is it a better system???)

BTW i've also tried
https://www.hi-shock.de/en/hi-shock-advanced-rf-kit-fuer-mitsubishi-3d-system-2.4g-rf

Which do just work, but I think I pref the Monster glasses and hopefully can tweak to be better....Though thankfully came with the 5pin mini din cable to 3 pin Vesa mini din adaptor 

Ta,
Lee


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## MagnumX

Are there any other 3D glasses (that work with Epson) that lets you adjust the delay timing to get rid of ghosting issues? Crosstalk ghosting is a major problem for me (I seem to be more sensitive to it than others watching my Epson 3100) and having read how these are adjustable sounded great until it was obvious that they wouldn't work with my projector. It seems utterly amazing to me that no one else thought about the timing issue for active shutter glasses when that seems to be THE problem with getting rid of crosstalk on active projectors. I have 3 different brand glasses (Epson, Xpand and some other brand I forget the name of) and they're all the same in terms of crosstalk here.


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## tripletopper

Does this plug into your media player and work like a Sega Master System Sega Scope 3d? Meaning. Can ANY TV, even a CRT monitor, he turned into a 3D TV, even ones not made to be 3D.

If so, I'm like to add 3d to his existing TV., And my CRT monitor for console video games.

The last piece of the puzzle they need is hidden recessive frame encoded within 3d broadcast to make a 2d-compatible 3d broadcast.

Now the 70% of the people who don't have 3d can just add it, which is why 3d failed in 2012.


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## A4K

Hi. I need help with getting a replacement RF 3D glasses for my Optoma ZF2300 which broke. It has to be compatible with the Optoma BC300 emitter. Can someone please advise whether the Monster Vision is compatible. Thank you.


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## Frank714

Sorry to hear about your problem. The B(it) C(auldron) Emitter BC300 is only compatible with the Optoma ZF2300 3D RF glasses, IIRC.  

The original "Ray-Ban" Bit Cauldron 3D-RF glasses were adopted by MonsterVision ("MonsterVision Max3D") and Optoma (designated "3D-RF") but will only work with the BC100 (green LEDs) emitter, same goes for the Optoma ZF2100 glasses. 






MonsterVision Max 3D - 3D Vision Blog







3dvision-blog.com


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## A4K

Frank714 said:


> Sorry to hear about your problem. The B(it) C(auldron) Emitter BC300 is only compatible with the Optoma ZF2300 3D RF glasses, IIRC.
> 
> The original "Ray-Ban" Bit Cauldron 3D-RF glasses were adopted by MonsterVision ("MonsterVision Max3D") and Optoma (designated "3D-RF") but will only work with the BC100 (green LEDs) emitter, same goes for the Optoma ZF2100 glasses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MonsterVision Max 3D - 3D Vision Blog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3dvision-blog.com


Thanks for your reply. 

The ZF2300 glasses are good with no crosstalk and flicker, but too dark. What other RF glasses can you recommend that are not too expensive? I suppose I have to buy new transmitter too. Then I won't be able to use my last remaining pair of ZF2300.


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## Frank714

Either you look for a replacement of your broken ZF2300 glasses (eBay or elsewhere) or for a different system (3D-RF Emitter and compatible 3D-RF glasses), which is almost as difficult these days.
Do not expect brighter 3D RF glasses, I remember that I cross-checked the ZF2300 with others and found the differences negligible.

Also, if you are using the Optoma system with an Optoma front projector (?) you won't have to change synchronization / inversion in the 3D setup menu. With the Hi-Shock System I got for my Optoma HD 83(00) I have to adjust the 3D settings each time prior to watching 3D Blu-ray content.

Good luck!


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## A4K

Frank714 said:


> Either you look for a replacement of your broken ZF2300 glasses (eBay or elsewhere) or for a different system (3D-RF Emitter and compatible 3D-RF glasses), which is almost as difficult these days.
> Do not expect brighter 3D RF glasses, I remember that I cross-checked the ZF2300 with others and found the differences negligible.
> 
> Also, if you are using the Optoma system with an Optoma front projector (?) you won't have to change synchronization / inversion in the 3D setup menu. With the Hi-Shock System I got for my Optoma HD 83(00) I have to adjust the 3D settings each time prior to watching 3D Blu-ray content.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks @Frank714. How do you find Hi-Shock? Is it as good as the ZF2300? I suppose it would auto sync at 144Hz with Optoma projector. 

I'm considering getting its emitter and glasses plus a Y-Vesa splitter cable to hook up my Optoma BC300 together. So I can use both the ZF2300 and the Hi-Shock RF glasses at the same time.

The Hi-Shock description says the emitter has a L-R switch to invert if necessary. I suppose that means it can be of opposite polarity with the BC300 so the two can work together. For the BC300, I set 3D Sync Invert to 'On'. I don't understand why your 3D inversion setting on the projector has to be changed each time with the Hi-Shock. Do you mean it defaults back to the 'Off' setting each time?


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## Frank714

IIRC the ZF2300 are so popular because these offer 144 Hz in the 3D-RF domain, the Hi-Shock only support 120 Hz (but they aren't noticably brighter or darker than the ZF2300).

Can't recommend using a Y-VESA splitter cable, tried to run my "Evo" (Hi-Shock) emitter parallel to my BC100 and it wouldn't work. Also read one report at the German Hi-Fi Forum according to which the Evo was fried in the parallel setup. I've been using my Y-splitter cable only as an extension cable ever since to either plug-in the Evo or the BC100.
_
For the BC300, I set 3D Sync Invert to 'On'. I don't understand why your 3D inversion setting on the projector has to be changed each time with the Hi-Shock. Do you mean it defaults back to the 'Off' setting each time?_

Are you using an Optoma projector? With my HD83(00) the default setting is "Off" and it's plug & play with the BC100 and my Optoma "MonsterVision Max3D" glasses. When I use the others (Hi-Shock and 3DTV Corp. via Evo) I have to change the Setting to "On" or the 3D image is messed up (objects in background show up in the foreground etc.). Unfortunately after each 3D session the HD83 defaults back to "Off".


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## A4K

Frank714 said:


> IIRC the ZF2300 are so popular because these offer 144 Hz in the 3D-RF domain, the Hi-Shock only support 120 Hz (but they aren't noticably brighter or darker than the ZF2300).
> 
> Can't recommend using a Y-VESA splitter cable, tried to run my "Evo" (Hi-Shock) emitter parallel to my BC100 and it wouldn't work. Also read one report at the German Hi-Fi Forum according to which the Evo was fried in the parallel setup. I've been using my Y-splitter cable only as an extension cable ever since to either plug-in the Evo or the BC100.
> 
> _For the BC300, I set 3D Sync Invert to 'On'. I don't understand why your 3D inversion setting on the projector has to be changed each time with the Hi-Shock. Do you mean it defaults back to the 'Off' setting each time?_
> 
> Are you using an Optoma projector? With my HD83(00) the default setting is "Off" and it's plug & play with the BC100 and my Optoma "MonsterVision Max3D" glasses. When I use the others (Hi-Shock and 3DTV Corp. via Evo) I have to change the Setting to "On" or the 3D image is messed up (objects in background show up in the foreground etc.). Unfortunately after each 3D session the HD83 defaults back to "Off".


I'm using Optoma HD25. I have to change the setting to On with my BC300. The Hi-Shock RF glasses specs say 144 Hz sync so they could be newer ones. Hi-Shock support says the Y cable does not work in all cases. They don't recommend using it but I will buy it to try anyway. It will be beautiful if I can use the ZF2300 and the Hi-Shock glasses at the same time.


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## A4K

Hi @Frank714. You are right. I have mistaken. The Hi-Shock glasses are only 120Hz though the emitter can do up to 144Hz. I wonder if at 120Hz the image will be as flicker-free as 144Hz.

Also it would likely not be able to work with the BC300 at 144Hz connected concurrently with the Hi-Shock emitter at 120Hz.

Are there any other RF emitter and glasses brands at 144Hz that can work with Optoma?


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## A4K

An update, @Frank714. 

I have been told by Hi-Shock support that their RF glasses support 144Hz too but they do not want to promote them as such. So in the specs they only state it at 120Hz even though their emitter can sync up to 144Hz. 

So I have ordered 2 Black Heaven glasses with the emitter plus a Y-VESA cable. If my remaining ZF2300/BC300 can be connected in tandem then I will have 3 pairs of workable glasses. Otherwise I will just sell off it off and live with the 2 pairs of Hi-Shock glasses. Their design looks good and the lenses seem bigger than the Black Diamond and other glasses. I'm excited to try them out and will update with the result.


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## Frank714

The Black Heaven is the RF model I also picked for my kids and myself, but I wasn't able to use them in tandem with my Optomas because of the sync inversion and the inability to pair them with my BC100 emitter, IIRC.

You'll probably appreciate the wearing comfort of the Black Heaven (just the nose pieces come off to easily), curious to learn what you think / found out.


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## A4K

Doesn't the Hi-Shock emitter has an inversion switch on it? So you can set the inversion to Off on the projector to sync with your BC100 and set the inversion to On on the Hi-Shock emitter. Won't that work?

Yes, I will be updating you once I tried the system, including the pairing with my BC300. But I'm also worried about frying the emitter as you have mentioned of a case in the German forum.


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## shunja

I recently aquired a pair of MV 3D glasses along with RF emitter. Does anyone here have a copy of Estar America latest PC utility/firmware flasher? To my understanding the MV emitter is cross-flashable with Estar BC100 emitter. Thanks in advance.


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