# 12V Trigger-driven Power Strips?



## DonH50

I need a way to power a couple of outlets/power strips using the 12V trigger from my AVR. I figured something like that would be readily available, but I have not found anything via searching here on Google. I thought of rigging something with a some relays, but prefer to just buy something if it's not a fortune. I expected something like this to be readily available, but the only things I have seen are ~$100 or more and often designed for home automation. Some companies (e.g. emotiva) make trigger repeaters to add trigger outputs, but they don't provide switched outlets. (My AVR doesn't have a switched output, and that isn't what I want anyway -- need more power capacity than that.) I have seen some power strips that provide little remote controls to turn them on and off, and some UPS units that have switched outlets, but neither is what I want.


My ideal circuit would be a little wall wart'ish thing or power strip that is controlled by the 12 V trigger from my AVR (e.g. a power strip with a 12 V trigger input to switch a couple of outlets).


Thanks - Don


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## tmnjus

 http://www.panamax.com/products/floo...10-ht-pro.aspx 


May be overkill, but it should do what you are looking for. It can be found for less than $100.


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## DonH50

Thanks, that is what I am looking for, though I was hoping for a $20 solution. At least it gives me some more keywords to Google and some things to look at, though I may still just roll my own (cogitating -- a few cheap parts plus box that add up to about $20, followed by an hour or two of messing around to build it and make it look nice -- probably cheaper to buy and be done with it!) It is cheaper than the couple of other similar strips I found.


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## MurrayW

Here's a previous thread that is similar. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...162&highlight=


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## DonH50

Thanks, that is indeed my back-up plan -- a relay and a little box for it. The problem with this forum is that there's _too much info_! Too many threads returned on a search...


I may use a solid-state relay; little more money, but no bouncing contacts or turn-on/off pops from arcing contacts. Also no worries about current draw from the trigger circuit (though most 12V relays are under the 100 mA spec). Power strips don't always turn on and off cleanly, either, and I want the trigger circuit's delayed on/fast off response. I keep thinking somebody must have made something like this for cheap, but maybe there's simply not enough demand (yet).


The other annoying thing is that I _know_ I have a big honkin' relay and trigger circuit already to go in one of my old parts bins, someplace in our black hole of a shed...


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## bin4ry

What you could do is get one of these: http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/psc01.html and hook it to the trigger of the receiver, and get one of these http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/pam02.html for each power strip. Then you would even have the benefit of controlling remote devices.


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## DonH50

Thanks, that's not a bad idea! Also a neat solution to spanning three outlets (one for the AVR, two the subs).


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## DonH50

Pulled the trigger on the X10 solution; I'll post how it works. I remember when the idea first came out (long, long ago) and have always been intrigued (Hi, my name is Don, and I'm a geek.







) There are some other X10 things I want to try, but this will be a good intro/trial of the technology (it has come a long way).


I found the Panamax for $85 on Amazon, but just couldn't make myself get it (plus I would need two), and although my local Shack has the little blue relays I'd be spending $25 - $30 plus time to put together a simple relay solution, and if I had gone that route would probably have gotten much better relays (and thus more costly, plus the heavier duty ones need more coil current). And, relays can put an amazingly loud "crack" into the system if not bypassed, so I would've had to get a few more components. (Does Shack no longer carry 600 V caps? None in stock locally, and all I wanted was a couple to bypass the relay contacts and kill the arc).


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## Gizmologist

Many AVR supplied 12v trigger outs are low current and the switching circuit is not designed to handle an inductive load such as a relay. If you opt for a mechanical relay, be sure to put a reverse diode across the coil contacts.

This prevents a "current backflow" surge damaging the xistor inside the AVR doing the switching when the relay is de-energized.


Remember when using the diode, use a 1N4001 or similar, and the anode (positive end with the band) is connected to the trigger + output and one side of the relay coil and the cathode goes to the negative (ground) along with the relay coil.


Check MPJA.com for great prices on SS relays up to 40 A.


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## DonH50

Good point. I typically use a Schottky diode or two (two to clamp both positive and negative excursions, Schottky to clamp before a Si-based junction can get biased on) plus a capacitor at times across the coil, and a small capacitor across the contacts.


The relay I first looked at drew 30 mA coil current; my AVR's trigger output is spec'd at 100 mA. Higher-power relays, that is higher current handling, generally perform better but have higher coil current to deal with their larger contacts. The nicer relays I was thinking about required 75 to 150 mA coil current so I would've needed a simple driver circuit (e.g. a small power MOSFET and handful of bias/suppression parts, including those for the relay -- at least it would have eliminated the d.c. draw issue).


Ultimately, I decided to try the X10 controller and subvert the problem. Hopefully!


Thanks for the link -- always adding to my parts places.


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## Gizmologist

Look at this

http://www.nilesaudio.com/product_se...hing%20Systems


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## DonH50

Thanks, that would work, plus more! Niles also makes another trigger-controlled outlet box, but it's over $120 plus wall wart.


You guys are great, so much info in one place!


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## DonH50

Got and installed the X10 controller and switches today; worked like a champ. There is a slight turn-off delay but since before the subs were on all the time no big deal.


Had I more time I would have gone for the solid-state relays Gizmo referenced, but the net cost might have been similar and I would have spent a few hours getting stuff and building it up pretty. Jez lazy in my old age...


Now back to room analysis and trying to figure out how to fix a big honkin' 50 Hz notch in my room. Sound treatment smoothed out everything else nicely, but made that worse.


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## Gizmologist

Acoustic nirvana putty?


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## DenonLover

I use a smart strip power unit.


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## DonH50

@Gizmo: Yeah, plus a little sonic pixie dust for the HF ripples!







Maybe I should just get some Tibetan Prayer Bowls...


@DenonLover: Yes, another way, thanks. They are also referenced in one of the links earlier in this thread. Because of the way I have my components hooked up, and spread across several outlets, that would not have worked well in my situation. The little X10 units work great for my subwoofers. The APC unit I use for the bulk of the components (TV, AVR, BD, etc.) has a similar feature I can use on them. Because my (rural) area has power issues I use a combination of power conditioning items to (try to) keep everything happy.


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## schrockstar

*2014 Options*

In case others have trouble finding some of these products for sale in 2014 (some seem to be unavailable), I managed to get my RSP-1570 controlling an old Bryston 4B-ST using an EKM Metering Switch 120

http://www.ekmmetering.com/ekm-mete...iY6S35npF-Y33IkR65Qh1btaeopxUttLBPhoCc1Tw_wcB

It requires one to hook in stripped wire to its + and - terminals -- I managed to do this by using an old IR emitter -- the jack goes right into the 12v output of typical amps, and then you take the inner conductor of the coaxial wire and hook it up to the + terminal of the switch, and the outer conducter to the - terminal, and it controls the power quite seamlessly.


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## Terry Lang

I'm using this to power my sub-amp from my AVR. Works great.


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## Tedesco2112

I've used the TS as well. It's a great protector.


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## MrBobb

Some of these new smart power trips are not reliable (switch setting), but try it and return if not satisfactory. This certainly is the quickest solution.

For the DIY geek, look for a remote-controlled power strip, one with a wired push button, and replace the bottom with a 12 volts relay(s).


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## ErinH

schrockstar said:


> In case others have trouble finding some of these products for sale in 2014 (some seem to be unavailable), I managed to get my RSP-1570 controlling an old Bryston 4B-ST using an EKM Metering Switch 120
> 
> http://www.ekmmetering.com/ekm-mete...iY6S35npF-Y33IkR65Qh1btaeopxUttLBPhoCc1Tw_wcB
> 
> It requires one to hook in stripped wire to its + and - terminals -- I managed to do this by using an old IR emitter -- the jack goes right into the 12v output of typical amps, and then you take the inner conductor of the coaxial wire and hook it up to the + terminal of the switch, and the outer conducter to the - terminal, and it controls the power quite seamlessly.


This little dude seems perfect for what I need which would be powering on a strip outlet off a 12v remote outlet from DSP. Do you still have yours and have you had any issues with it since you posted about it?


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## schrockstar

bikinpunk said:


> This little dude seems perfect for what I need which would be powering on a strip outlet off a 12v remote outlet from DSP. Do you still have yours and have you had any issues with it since you posted about it?


Still have mine, still working just fine.


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## ErinH

Awesome. I did some digging and found this one for $10 cheaper. And it looks like the exact same thing.
http://www.adafruit.com/product/268


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## gmmiddle

schrockstar said:


> In case others have trouble finding some of these products for sale in 2014 (some seem to be unavailable), I managed to get my RSP-1570 controlling an old Bryston 4B-ST using an EKM Metering Switch 120
> 
> It requires one to hook in stripped wire to its + and - terminals -- I managed to do this by using an old IR emitter -- the jack goes right into the 12v output of typical amps, and then you take the inner conductor of the coaxial wire and hook it up to the + terminal of the switch, and the outer conducter to the - terminal, and it controls the power quite seamlessly.


Thanks for posting this. Worked great.


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## ronroland

I recently purchase a used Niles AC-3 off of Ebay for a reasonable price. Works very well to trigger my power amp from my AV receiver.


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## brad1138

This is a great answer to this thread, quality and inexpensive.

http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot.html


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## madbrain

brad1138 said:


> This is a great answer to this thread, quality and inexpensive.
> 
> http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot.html


Looks great, but where could one obtain the cable to connect a receiver's trigger output (ie. mono 3.5mm jack) to that green input on the iOT power relay ?


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## brad1138

madbrain said:


> Looks great, but where could one obtain the cable to connect a receiver's trigger output (ie. mono 3.5mm jack) to that green input on the iOT power relay ?


Easy, strip any cable with a 3.5mm jack on the end and you will find 2 wires. Then you could splice on any length cable if you need it longer. I used some old cat 5 cable I had. Any 2 of the 8 wires would work, I think I combined stripped and not stripped. 

Or just buy this

https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-70-3526-3-5mm-Right-Angle/dp/B004GIGTQ6


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## madbrain

brad1138 said:


> Easy, strip any cable with a 3.5mm jack on the end and you will find 2 wires. Then you could splice on any length cable if you need it longer. I used some old cat 5 cable I had. Any 2 of the 8 wires would work, I think I combined stripped and not stripped.
> 
> Or just buy this
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-70-3526-3-5mm-Right-Angle/dp/B004GIGTQ6


Thank you ! I'll just order this cable, it happens to be the right length for what I want. Will give it a shot this weekend. This is to run my old receiver as a 2-channel power amp in an 11.2 setup. The new Marantz SR7011 receiver has 9 built-in amps and trigger out. I set the 2 top rear channels as as Zone 2 with the old receiver.


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## madbrain

madbrain said:


> Thank you ! I'll just order this cable, it happens to be the right length for what I want. Will give it a shot this weekend. This is to run my old receiver as a 2-channel power amp in an 11.2 setup. The new Marantz SR7011 receiver has 9 built-in amps and trigger out. I set the 2 top rear channels as as Zone 2 with the old receiver.


Happy to report that this device and cable combo worked great. The 2nd receiver was using 60W in standby which I just couldn't have. Using trigger out from the first receiver is seamless.

It took me some time to figure out how to secure the wire, though. There is no doc whatsoever even on the product's web site (iotrelay.com). It wasn't until I watched the cheesy promotional video that I saw that the green terminal actually pulls out of the device so you can insert the wires and screw them in. That was far from obvious for me, having never dabbled in electronic. The switch is polarized also and I got it wrong the first time around. It's working beautifully now. I'm thinking of buying more of these. I need power switches for my WHA system. I tried both TP-link and Wemo wifi power switches, but they are too unreliable - keep disconnecting from my Orbi and getting huge packet loss (like 30%). With these, I could potentially use a Raspberry pi in combination to control them. Would need a Pi for each location of my WHA speakers though (2) so that would bring up the price of each switch. But the Pis would work much better ethernet and powerline AV than wifi.


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## Sal1950

DonH50 said:


> Good point. I typically use a Schottky diode or two (two to clamp both positive and negative excursions, Schottky to clamp before a Si-based junction can get biased on) plus a capacitor at times across the coil, and a small capacitor across the contacts.
> 
> The relay I first looked at drew 30 mA coil current; my AVR's trigger output is spec'd at 100 mA. Higher-power relays, that is higher current handling, generally perform better but have higher coil current to deal with their larger contacts. The nicer relays I was thinking about required 75 to 150 mA coil current so I would've needed a simple driver circuit (e.g. a small power MOSFET and handful of bias/suppression parts, including those for the relay -- at least it would have eliminated the d.c. draw issue).
> 
> Ultimately, I decided to try the X10 controller and subvert the problem. Hopefully!
> 
> Thanks for the link -- always adding to my parts places.


Old post I know but I'm sure @DonH50 is still around.  There's still a curious lack of off the shelf products on the market for what seems like a relatively common need?
Don (or anyone else) I've got one of these trigger strips 
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2935
coming to fire up my power amps from the 12 trigger of my Marantz AV7701. Do you think I should still use the diode or a cap of some type across the trigger input as was discussed here?
TIA
Sal


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## DonH50

Yah, still around, though rarely come to this sub-forum.

The spec sheet does not provide much in the way of real specs, like the input load, but given the description and application I think you'll be fine. The diode clamps and other circuitry is to protect a low-power trigger source from the voltage and current kickback of a relay. I was also concerned because some trigger outputs have lower output current (50 mA max on my Denon, I think) so a high-power relay with a high-current coil direct-attached would be a problem. The module you ordered is meant to be driven by microcontrollers and such and states the input is buffered before the high-power relay. Should be good to go.

HTH - Don


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## Sal1950

DonH50 said:


> buffered before the high-power relay. Should be good to go.
> 
> HTH - Don


Thanks for the feedback Don, I really appreciate you input.
See ya round the net.


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## Sal1950

Just thought I'd update with the outcome.
The IoT power strip worked perfectly for powering up my three Adcom power amps off the Marantz AV7701 12v trigger jack. Will work a hoot for sooo many different DIY projects for a lousy $25. Can't go wrong.


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## legierk

brad1138 said:


> This is a great answer to this thread, quality and inexpensive.
> 
> http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot.html



I realize this is an old thread. But I recently got one of these off Amazon and it works great. Can't understand why this is such an issue to this day. Anyhow, any newer options available? Would be nice to see a consolidated list.


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## Sal1950

legierk said:


> I realize this is an old thread. But I recently got one of these off Amazon and it works great. *Can't understand why this is such an issue to this day.* Anyhow, any newer options available? Would be nice to see a consolidated list.


 Not all of us run real new components with triggers everywhere 
Don't know of anything new but then I haven't looked. But I did purchase a second one just a couple months back when I got my
new Atmos capable AVR. I now had to start 5 Adcom class A/B stereo amps at turn-on plus my outboard stereo DAC and was a bit nervous about the current demand. Now the 2 share the load on my 20 amp dedicated line. They're inexpensive so cost was no big issue. They've worked without issue for me and I'm very pleased with the purchases.


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## kbuzz

HI folks, to raise a pretty dead thread id appreciate any assistance. I would like to to add auto on to my older subwoofer amp via my Yamaha avr trigger out..or any other simple solution. Would i just buy this https://www.adafruit.com/product/2935#tutorials And hook up a 3.5 mini cord from the avr trigger out to this strip? 

This seems easy but than i would have two power strips one for the existing equipment and now this just for the amp?

Or if anyone has any suggestions due to more recent products id appreciate it. Some kind of smart plug maybe (NON-DYI)
Maybe some kind of auto on off power strip that I could plug the AVR into and then would turn everything on when the avr is activated?
Like this https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-TLP808NETG/dp/B003A7P262/ref=cm_wl_huc_item


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## Sal1950

kbuzz said:


> HI folks, to raise a pretty dead thread id appreciate any assistance. I would like to to add auto on to my older subwoofer amp via my Yamaha avr trigger out..or any other simple solution. Would i just buy this https://www.adafruit.com/product/2935#tutorials And hook up a 3.5 mini cord from the avr trigger out to this strip?
> 
> This seems easy but than i would have two power strips one for the existing equipment and now this just for the amp?
> 
> Or if anyone has any suggestions due to more recent products id appreciate it. Some kind of smart plug maybe (NON-DYI)
> Maybe some kind of auto on off power strip that I could plug the AVR into and then would turn everything on when the avr is activated?
> Like this https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-TLP808NETG/dp/B003A7P262/ref=cm_wl_huc_item


 Yes, just use the adafruit product I listed. Hook up the Yam trigger out to the strips input sensor. It is easy.

For the rest, how many outlets do you need? The ada strip has 4 outlets, 2 normal off, 1 normal on, and 1 always on. You could plug the Yami into the always on, plug the sub into the first normal off and other power strip into the other normal off, Then the rest of the gear into that power strip. Now when you turn the Yami on, the complete system will power on..
Lots of other ways to get gear running when you need/desire, just think it thru.


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## kbuzz

Sal1950 said:


> Yes, just use the adafruit product I listed. Hook up the Yam trigger out to the strips input sensor. It is easy.
> 
> For the rest, how many outlets do you need? The ada strip has 4 outlets, 2 normal off, 1 normal on, and 1 always on. You could plug the Yami into the always on, plug the sub into the first normal off and other power strip into the other normal off, Then the rest of the gear into that power strip. Now when you turn the Yami on, the complete system will power on..
> Lots of other ways to get gear running when you need/desire, just think it thru.


Sal thanks so much for the reply. right now i need 5 outlets with the AVR. I anticipate needing at least one more in the future...
the ada fruit looks great but now i have to run two strips......wont be neat but will work

Also do you happen to know if there is a minijack plug input on the adafruit or do you have to hard wire the 12v trigger from the avr? Cant tell thanks


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## Sal1950

kbuzz said:


> Sal thanks so much for the reply. right now i need 5 outlets with the AVR. I anticipate needing at least one more in the future...
> the ada fruit looks great but now i have to run two strips......wont be neat but will work
> 
> Also do you happen to know if there is a minijack plug input on the adafruit or do you have to hard wire the 12v trigger from the avr? Cant tell thanks


No input jack. You cut off the plug on one end of the cable, strip the wires, insert them into holes on the strips input, and tighten a couple screws that grab the wires. 
Easy peasy


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## kbuzz

Gotcha. That works.. Thanks again. Although im thinking may just be eaiser to buy a smart power strip and plug the avr into the master...that way i only have one strip....something like this:


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## ghart999

I ended up with the Tripplite as well. Same price as the Adafruit option but with more switched outlets.


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## Sal1950

Just some food for thought.

I was concerned when doing my system that switching on the 5 separate Adcom power amps plus the DAC would have been too high a current surge for the relay in a single strip. Using a pair of the ADA strips, both with their own heavy duty power cords plugged into my 20 amp circuit gave me peace of mind the there would be no supply issues. 

YMMV


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## ghart999

Luckily for me I only need to power a single amp and maybe a few fans.


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## CalJake

*Switch noise amplified with IoT relay*

I picked up the IoT relay (http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot2faqs.html) from Amazon, partly due to this thread. A pretty impressive little unit. Very solid, nicely built, works great. I have an Onkyo AVR with the brilliant feature that the 12 V trigger is only zone 2. So I have it set up so that when I power on my Sony Bravia, a USB port on it powers up and triggers the relay, which then switches on the Adcom GFA 555-II that drives my two main speakers. Powering on the Sony also switches on the Onkyo through standard CEC, so it all works great. Powering off the Sony also powers off the Adcom. The only problem is when the switch on the relay is clicked on, the switching is amplified pretty loudly through my speakers. I doubt it's an issue, but it is very unpleasant. Any suggestions to eliminate/minimize that? And I am correct to assume that it won't damage my Klipsch RP-280F mains?


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## Sal1950

CalJake said:


> I picked up the IoT relay (http://www.digital-loggers.com/iot2faqs.html) from Amazon, partly due to this thread. A pretty impressive little unit. Very solid, nicely built, works great. I have an Onkyo AVR with the brilliant feature that the 12 V trigger is only zone 2. So I have it set up so that when I power on my Sony Bravia, a USB port on it powers up and triggers the relay, which then switches on the Adcom GFA 555-II that drives my two main speakers. Powering on the Sony also switches on the Onkyo through standard CEC, so it all works great. Powering off the Sony also powers off the Adcom. The only problem is when the switch on the relay is clicked on, the switching is amplified pretty loudly through my speakers. I doubt it's an issue, but it is very unpleasant. Any suggestions to eliminate/minimize that? And I am correct to assume that it won't damage my Klipsch RP-280F mains?


No idea how to eliminate the noise, sorry.
But unless the noise is loud in the extreme I wouldn't worry about it. How loud is that? I don't know but unless it makes you reflex to plug you ears, it's probably OK.
By the way, pretty ingenious using USB power to operate the relay, I salute you.


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## zeuspaul

Have you had any issues with the adafruit? My Marantz SR7009 has a _12 V DC/150 mA trigger-compatible device_ spec which I assume is the same across the Marantz line of receivers. I don't see a spec on the adafruit so I thought I would ask a user.




Sal1950 said:


> Old post I know but I'm sure @*DonH50* is still around.  There's still a curious lack of off the shelf products on the market for what seems like a relatively common need?
> Don (or anyone else) I've got one of these trigger strips
> https://www.adafruit.com/product/2935
> coming to fire up my power amps from the 12 trigger of my Marantz AV7701. Do you think I should still use the diode or a cap of some type across the trigger input as was discussed here?
> TIA
> Sal


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## Sal1950

zeuspaul said:


> Have you had any issues with the adafruit? My Marantz SR7009 has a _12 V DC/150 mA trigger-compatible device_ spec which I assume is the same across the Marantz line of receivers. I don't see a spec on the adafruit so I thought I would ask a user.


 No, no issues at all.
I'm not a engineer but the adafruit units use some type of sensing circuit that will operate over a wide range of input voltages. DonH50 also provided some input back on a 1-1-2018 post here.



"Universal control voltage 3-60VDC or 12-120VAC, or connect directly to a 12V, 48VDC, or even 120VAC circuit."


I've had 2 of them controlling the turn-on of my 5 power amps from my Marantz pre/pro for almost a year and a half now with no problems.


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## holl_ands

Save the cost of shipping ($11 to my location) if you have Amazon Prime:
https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2


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## Robbie D

The Digital Loggers IoT relay power strip above looks like an excellent solution.

But does anyone know of a similar 230V product for use in the UK? Or even a 230V European or IEC socket version?


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## CalJake

holl_ands said:


> Save the cost of shipping ($11 to my location) if you have Amazon Prime:
> https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2


Yep. That's the one I bought. Still really happy with mine, and works great.


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## mj13young

Yes, I am also looking for a 220/240 volt solution similar to the IoT power strip.


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## disturbedfuel15

mj13young said:


> Yes, I am also looking for a 220/240 volt solution similar to the IoT power strip.


Just create your own using a contactor with a 12v coil








*Follow all local ordinances


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## JonFo

mj13young said:


> Yes, I am also looking for a 220/240 volt solution similar to the IoT power strip.


Then you want to do something similar to what I did in this thread, as I'm switching balanced power (both legs are 'hot'), similar to 220v, so it uses DPDT relays. Power Distribution Unit with Relay controlled outlets –...


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## NoDigital

I've switched power sockets using a variety of these type of modules


















2.5US $ 16% OFF|Dc6-30v Digital Display Time Relay Module Time Delay Relay Timer Relay Timing Delay Cycle Time Control Switch Voltage Protection - Relays - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com





Can also delay the power off so had it set to 2 mins which was enough time for the screen to roll back before it powered off.


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## KarlsSpeakerWorks

holl_ands said:


> Save the cost of shipping ($11 to my location) if you have Amazon Prime:
> https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2


Shame that unit is no longer available and there's no alternative listed. :/


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## mailalan

I do see the Xantech AC1 which looks like it will do the trick: DC Controlled AC Outlet | Xantech

Also, it looks like Boekel Scientific carries the IoT relay under their own brand name: OSB™ IoT Relay Outlet, PN:555005


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## pdcherry1

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-En...WV7GMA2/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00WV7GMA2&psc=1 may be the needed solution


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