# Rich's Variable Image Size System



## R Harkness


Well, I finally have a system configuration...so I can make a post about it.

After a year of planning and almost a year of construction I'm enjoying my new system mightily. I took the front room of our house, which has been my 2 channel listening room/living room for many years, and reno'd it into a projection based home theater/media room with 4 way automated masking for varying image ARs and sizes.


Here are shots of the room. Comments to follow:




























*DURING THE DAY:*


----------



## R Harkness

Few more shots.


FROM JUST OUTSIDE THE HALLWAY:











Shots showing the ceiling. We built down the ceiling for several reasons. It houses the lighting (Lutron controlled), and we did a fabric covering treatment instead of wood or drywall, allowing us to employ acoustic treatments at strategic points of the ceiling. As well, the dark chocolate fabric absorbs light better than even a dark painted ceiling, helping on screen image quality. The fabric system is so taut and board-straight it looks virtually like a painted ceiling, except it has a nice, fine texture when you look up at it.


----------



## R Harkness

The design was done in consultation with an acoustician and the room sounds great for my 2 channel listening as well as home theater.


The room has some some neat features: The screen is automated 4 way masking with an "extra big 'n tall" screen so I can run the system any way I want: Constant Image Height if need be. But mostly I just vary the image size to my taste. Depending on the source quality (DVD or Blu-Ray/HDDVD, HD cable, or variations in movie transfer quality), I'll have the image bigger or smaller. The screen goes up to 124" wide for CinemaScope, and up to around 128" or so diagonal for large format 16:9/1:85:1 material - seating distance is 10 to 11 feet at the sofa.


Avatar truly rocks at almost 130" diagonal - feels IMAX, like you can walk into the picture.


Very important goals for my system were:


1. Had to be "high performance" room, such that audio and video would not be compromised by the room. The room had to be able to have perfect light control and become very non-reflective when watching movies. This had to be balanced with...


2. Must look nice and blend easily into the house. This was the main floor living room, which you see right off the hallway when you enter our house. By day I did not want it dark, foreboding and cave like. Which is why I went dark on the ceiling, rug, screen wall, and sofa, but light on the walls. It stays cheery in the daytime with all the light coming in the bay windows. For watching movies there are dark cocoa velvet curtains that can be pulled across the walls and the fireplace, making the room very dark and non-reflective for optimal picture quality.


3. Had to have black screen wall with 4 way masking. Having masked my plasma for years I knew the value of an image floating in black. I wanted the speakers to entirely disappear as well, when watching a movie, so they are covered with velvet like the rest of the surrounding screen wall.


4. I wanted as clean a look as possible. So my source equipment is down the hall in another room. Projector is hidden behind the sofa on a remote controlled lift that raises the projector for movie watching.


5. Must look and be very comfy and inviting, for long lounging time.


----------



## R Harkness

*MASKING SYSTEM SHOTS*


Here are some quick shots of the masking in different positions (BTW, some of the masking lines may look

crooked in these shots; it's the camera lens, they are straight in real life):
*

1:85:1*










*2:35:1*











The extra tall screen (vs strict CIH) allows me to open up the image height/size for more spectacular presentations when desired, for instance Avatar, IMAX-source movies...or just when I want a *bigger 16:9* picture:











I can also go for a bigger *4:3* image as well:











This was very gratifying for a recent viewing of the Wizard Of Oz blu-ray, where I could have quite a huge 4:3 image for a cinematic effect.


----------



## R Harkness

*SCREEN SHOTS*


Ok, here are some very quick screen shots of the system at various image shapes/sizes. Unfortunately my tripod was a piece o' crap and was very wiggly, so the low exposure times plus the wiggle made for somewhat blurry images. But I want to finish this thread and can't be bothered to do better for now. I left some lights on over the ottomans to try to give a little bit of perspective to the shots, but I note that the screen size changes don't come across with remotely the same size difference/impact they do in person. But...it'll have to do.


Here's a *1:85:1* (almost 16:9) AR image, from Ang Lee's *HULK* (I think around 105" diagonal):











You do get a sense of the image-floating-in-black effect that I was going for. It's one of the more satisfying results of the reno, to my mind.

*Image in wide mode - LOTR Return Of The King:*



















*AVATAR at 122" diagonal:*










*WIZARD OF OZ, 4:3 AR, at full screen height:*


----------



## R Harkness

*USING REMOTE CONTROL...and MASKING CONTROLS*


If I choose BLU-RAY from the WATCH MOVIE page, it switches the source to Blu-Ray and ends on this page:











I like the fact all the transport and menu buttons are mapped to the remotes hard buttons for ease of use in the dark, freeing up the touch screen to have various options readily available. Pressing SOUND, or PICTURE brings me to pages allowing fine control.


You can see on the bottom right that there is a SCREEN SIZE button, like on the main home page. Pressing that button brings up pages from which I can select and manipulate image sizes. PAGE ONE:











PAGE TWO











What happens is I choose a pre-set Aspect Ratio/Image size button, say...16:9 115"


That starts the screen size changing and calls up the projector's lens zoom feature on the screen. As the masking is changing size I'm zooming the image out to fit the width of the screen - the projector is centered so it zooms out evenly on both sides. This makes it really quick and easy to just zoom until the edges of the image meet the new image width.

Then it's just a quick vertical shift up or down to adjust the image into place (the top/bottom masks will have stopped in place by that point).



This process is quick and painless. I have it down to as low as 12 seconds to change from one AR/image size to a new one. And guests tend to think it's way cool watching the process. I use the JVC RS20 projector's lens pattern, which has all the relevant ARs marked in "laser green" against a black background, and it really does look cool using it.


----------



## R Harkness

Remote Controlled Black Out Blinds (DOWN):










*USING THE SYSTEM: WATCHING A MOVIE*


First, here's a close up of the remote control MAIN PAGE (or "Home") screen:











As you can see I can choose the screen size either before I put a movie in or there's an option in the movie-watching pages to do so as well.


When I press the WATCH MOVIE button it goes to the movie-set-up page:











Pressing "System On" starts a macro that: shuts the window blinds, turns the projector and equipment on and sets the lighting to dim (I turn the lights off when everyone is settled in). The PROJ UP and PROJ DOWN buttons raise and lower the projector. That command is also mapped to a hard button that is hard to see in the picture. When you press and hold PROJ UP this happens:


PROJECTOR BEGINS RISING FROM BEHIND SOFA











PROJECTOR LIFTED TO FULL HEIGHT:












"Look up...look waaaay up...." (Canadians will know that one). It's a neato sight watching the projector telescope way up high. That will be part of the video I'll post, hopefully soon.


You can also see my rear FX speakers mounted between the bay windows. They do a nice job of filling in the rear ambience for movies etc.


----------



## R Harkness

*COMPONENT LISTS:*

AV RACK (Not Shown):

*Denon AVR 2809CI Receiver* (Nothing special but does a good job for movies).

*Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray Playe*r (Nach)

*Onkyo HD-DVD player* (Onkyo's version of the Toshiba XA2 player).

*Denon DVP - 6020CI Video Processor* (has very nice noise reduction controls)
*

Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD PVR*


All run via Blue Jeans HDMI cables (50ft lengths) to the Home Theater room.


I love not having the source equipment in the room. It makes for a neater look, less lights, less heat.


----------



## R Harkness

*2 CHANNEL COMPONENTS - SOURCE ROOM RACK:*


I've run a separate pair of L/R speaker wires from my music gear rack into the home theater room. These are hidden in the HT room and I just hook them up to the L/R speakers when I want to listen 2-channel, old school style. (I prefer the sound of the 2 channel gear to the AV system, for music).


I'm a tube-head as far as amplification goes. I have a variety of gear I throw in and out of the system.
*

Conrad Johnson Premier 12 Monoblock tube amps* (140W/side). - Sweet, lush but not too lush, and powerful - able to handle every crazy speaker I've had in my room.
*

Eico HF-81 Integrated Tube Amp.* These little beauties were dirt cheap until this Stereophile review:

http://www.stereophile.com/integratedamps/606eico/ 


It's just sick how great that old integrated tube amp sounds. It sounds HUGE, full, detailed, not rolled off, lively yet relaxing...the whole ball o' wax. I tend to like it even better than my CJ amps!
*

Pre-amps:*


I use a *locally built tube pre-amp*, as well as an *Audible Illusions* fully tricked out pre-amp.


For my digital music I play my iTunes (full res) into a *Benchmark Dac1.*

Sounds awesome.


I have a turntable that will be put into the system soon.


----------



## R Harkness

Home Theater/Media Room Components:

*JVC RS20 Projector* - with good tweaking the image is spectacularly sharp and rich in contrast.

*Flatlift projector lift.* Keeps the projector hidden at 23" high, then the telescoping lift brings it up to over 6 feet high for viewing movies.


Screen: Stewart ST-130, viewable image area of 124" wide by up to 64" tall.

*MASKING:*


For top/bottom masking, I use the *Carada Masquerade:*

http://www.carada.com/HorizontalMasquerade.aspx 


The Carada is a terrific, slick product.


For Side Masking I use a remote controlled panel system from *Goelst.* It's really quiet and precise. Macro programming of my remote control makes these two systems work simultaneously to alter the screen size/shape any way I want.


----------



## R Harkness

*SPEAKERS*


I've always had a speaker jones so lots of speakers have passed through my home, including: Quad ESL 63s/Gradient subwoofers, Von Schweikert, Shun Mook, Waveform, Audio Physic (Virgo, Libra, Scorpio), Meadowlark, Thiel, Spendor etc.


When it came to choosing speakers that would do double duty for HT and music, I went to a now-defunct company's products: the *Hales Design Group Transcendence Speakers* (Paul Hales designer). I'd had the Transcendence 5s at one point and always admired how Paul Hales managed to render the best from metal drivers without any of the negative I often associated - no audible ringing, "zing" tizziness, metalic character, brightness...none of that. Rather, his Transcendence series just had an awesomely clear, richly accurate timbral quality and midrange, all delivered an a relaxed, organic way.


Since that company had closed down years ago I went on a second hand hunt and eventually found some very, very rare items: *Transcendence T1* stand mounted monitors and also the huge *Transcendence center channel* (I think only a few exist). Together these produce a huge midrange presence, rich bass, and a clear, relaxed sound that is so timbrally convincing on effects and voices. Hunting these speakers down was one of the best decisions I made for my home theater.


The Hales center channel goes so low I don't need a subwoofer, so mine is a *7.0 Surround System.*


For surrounds I use *Monitor Audio speakers*. They are one of the closest sounds to the Hales speakers. Monitor Audio is known for it's clean, detailed sound using metal drivers, although their monitor and tower speakers tend to sound more up-tilted and zingy than the hales.

However, their Bronze line of FX speakers actually sound quite a lot like the Hales (more subdued) and make a good match. Smaller Monitor Audio Speakers fill out the two rear FX speakers.


----------



## R Harkness

Finally, here's a pair of speakers I picked up (excitedly) a few months ago.

*

My MBL 121 monitors:*











From the listening sofa:











If you are in to high end audio and especially if you've been to any of the high end audio shows you may know the MBL omnidirectional speakers. Once I heard the 101s, years ago:

http://www.mbl-usa.com/View.aspx/2101/mbl-101---MK-II 


I always dreamed of owning a pair of these unique, but outrageously expensive German speakers. They are one of those high end speakers that actually deliver; they are built and finished like fine jewelry and actually sound the part, with a unique room-energising omnidirectional radiating pattern, an effortless openness and resolution, along with their renowned imaging where the space just becomes populated with performers yet none of the sound seems to be coming from the speakers. It's really something to experience. Definitely some of the most "un-speaker-like" sound I've heard.


At around $45,000 to $55,000/pair I could never afford the big 101s but a while back MBL introduced the 121 monitor sized version... still way too expensive for my blood. But I kept my ear to the ground for many years on audiogon and recently leaped on a second hand pair that were a unique deal/price.


They are kept in a nearby room and throw them in the system when I want. I've had a big grin listening to these things because I finally own a pair of MBLs










Cheers,


----------



## R Harkness

That's it folks. Hope you enjoyed.


Comments, pro or con, welcome.


----------



## Spurrier Sucks

Looks great.


----------



## hikarate

Its like HT is a really difficult math problem and you just solved it. I'm blown away, that masking system is possibly the coolest thing I have ever seen, not to mention everything else. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Roger That

mind = blown


Brilliant setup. Huge fan of all your decisions. Hope to achieve something like this in the future.


Congrats on realizing your vision!


----------



## LumaMMXII

Wow! What an atmosphere. Looks so comfy... and just amazing.

I would say you should be proud... it goes without saying... I'm guessing being there first hand does it all the justice to boot.


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks! It's nice to see others are appreciating the results!


BTW, if you notice, the screen is lit up in a different color from the room.

I figured, instead of the screen just sitting there like a big, white functional void on one of the walls, why not use it to advantage and make it light up with colors?

*COLORED LED TRACK LIGHTS*


For a little razzle-dazzle I bought some of these remote controlled color-changing LED light bulbs:

http://www.uxsight.com/product/7157/...-bulb-12v.html 











I put them in the track lights facing the screen:











(They are in "red" mode in the photo).


These lights are great, lighting up my screen, and really add to the look and experience of the room. They can do all sorts of colors and you can choose a single color stay on or you can choose to have the colors slowly dissolve to new colors (med or slow speeds), or flash or whatever.


I love being able to change the color of the screen with my mood. Setting the screen to a "cool" color temperature like blue can really be nice to off-set the warm colors of the room. It's fun to have the colors going when I listen to music as well. Controls for these lights have been programmed into my universal remote, on the "Lights" page.


----------



## AvGeek07

wow,that is a great setup.

Do you get motion sickness from that close to that projector screen>? At movie theaters i get motion sickness.


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AvGeek07* /forum/post/18853514
> 
> 
> wow,that is a great setup.
> 
> Do you get motion sickness from that close to that projector screen>? At movie theaters i get motion sickness.



Generally, no.


A lot of people find out that you get used to a screen size pretty fast, and even after some people move to projection it's not long before they realise they could have bought an even bigger screen.


Originally I wasn't even planning on projection. A coupe years ago I was going for a 65" plasma, moving up from my current 42" plasma. 65" seemed huge "real cinema" to me then. I borrowed a friend's cheap projector to project a 65" diagonal 16:9 image on my wall, just to see how big it would feel and arrange furniture. But then I zoomed the image bigger and went "wow...THIS feels like the cinema." Going back to 65" suddenly seemed too small.


Originally I figured a 95" diagonal 16:9 image would be plenty big. But luckily I chose to live with projecting images on my wall for quite a while to get used to the experience, and as I did I found myself being acclimatized to larger and larger images, up to even 124" wide. This is one reason why I went for the extra large screen so I'd never feel "I should have gone bigger while I had the chance."


But not all sources look great blown up to the largest sizes, so I vary my image size quite a bit. Most guests love a huge image, but my wife, for instance, does find really big images disorientating. So when we watch together I make the screen smaller to her taste. This being another instance of why the variable screen size works well for me: I can make the image a comfortable size for my wife so she'll join me for watching, and when I watch by myself or with friends I can have a much bigger image.


Cheers,


----------



## Tigre

_::Is speechless::_


I really can't put into words of how much I'm digging your setup


----------



## R Harkness

Much obliged everyone. It's a bit of an unusual system in some respects so I'm glad if it can prove inspiration to anyone else. I've certainly been inspired by people here.


As you can see the sectional sofa is quite large. I wanted to be able to seat as many people as possible (I love watching movies with company). It was custom designed to the square inch to fit in place and be as big as possible, and tall enough to provide good back support while not blocking the view of the bay windows. It's proven a big hit among guests who always remark on how comfortable the seating is for lounging.

It fits up to 6 adults pretty spaciously...great for UFC parties like last night!


Man, I have to say that having the UFC image in HD floating in a big dark surrounding gives it a window-like vibe, like you are sitting at the event! I built this thing to be social, not anti-social, and now my place seems to be the gathering spot for my pals to watch movies and events. So I'm very happy with how things have turned out.


Flat screens are fun and I was a flat screen fanatic for almost a decade, but now that everyone has them a big projected image tends to get the "wow" factor back into home theater. I highly recommend it if you can do it.


----------



## hikarate

I miss my PJ. Hope to have one back up to pull down in front of my TV at some point.


----------



## Daman S

This is absolutely fantastic setup Rich!!! Love everything about you room and especially the masking system you are using. Would love to see more pictures as well. Wondering how high is the pj from the rear seat's top?


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daman S* /forum/post/18992940
> 
> 
> This is absolutely fantastic setup Rich!!! Love everything about you room and especially the masking system you are using. Would love to see more pictures as well. Wondering how high is the pj from the rear seat's top?



Thanks Daman. I'm enjoying the heck outta it I must say.


The top of the sofa is, if I remember 34 to 36" high. The projector lift goes up to 75 1/2" tall.


I'm planning on putting a video of everything in action, projector lift, automated blinds, the masking etc, on my build thread as soon as I can.

FYI, here's my build thread with tons more photos and info:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1254505 


Rich


----------



## Daman S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/18995609
> 
> 
> Thanks Daman. I'm enjoying the heck outta it I must say.
> 
> 
> The top of the sofa is, if I remember 34 to 36" high. The projector lift goes up to 75 1/2" tall.
> 
> 
> I'm planning on putting a video of everything in action, projector lift, automated blinds, the masking etc, on my build thread as soon as I can.
> 
> FYI, here's my build thread with tons more photos and info:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1254505
> 
> 
> Rich



Sounds great, ill look fwd to the video and also check out your build thread.


----------



## imprez25

I am really digging this set up. I might just steal your ceiling and lighting set up for my theater. I have been stuck on how to finish my ceiling for a about 18 months now... and I think I just figured it out!


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *imprez25* /forum/post/19064177
> 
> 
> I am really digging this set up. I might just still your ceiling and lighting set up for my theater. I have been stuck on how to finish my ceiling for a about 18 months now... and I think I just figured it out!



Glad you like it. If you want to know how the ceiling was done you can click the link below my name to my build thread.


It's fabric covered so I could do all sorts of good acoustic stuff for the room on the ceiling, behind the fabric. It turned out great - guests comment on the amazing acoustics of the room all the time.


Being fabric, it also really reduces reflections from the ceiling back to the screen as well, to preserve image contrast.


Another reason to build the ceiling down like that was because our bedroom is right above this home theater room. To ensure as little sound leakage as possible, I built the ceiling down just enough to put pot lights in, so the pot lights didn't have to be cut into the existing ceiling...which leads right to the bedroom and could have leaked sound. The ceiling build-down also helps hide all sorts of mechanical stuff from sight, for instance the curtain tracks and other things, for a clean look. So the ceiling fulfilled all it's purposes beautifully.


I'm super glad I went for a combo of pot lights and track lights. The pot lights are somewhat movable for aiming in different directions, but you'll never get a pot light as flexible as a track light for those purposes. The track lights have been awesome to let me dial in exact areas of lighting and intensity, hitting just the right spots. Properly designed and aimed lighting means you can have quite a bit of light on over the seating area without having much affect on the picture at all.


Cheers,


----------



## imprez25

I had a chance to check out your build thread. Again, I am really impressed with what you have done. Check out my build thread if you get a chance. our rooms have a similar layout (Though I think yours is a step or two above where I am at.







) I will be comeing back to this thread and your build thread for inspiration.


----------



## mhdiab

Rich -- the HT looks fantastic. I have a question about your blinds. I looked around your different threads and didn't find to much about them except for the trouble with the wiring.


What brand did you go with etc?


Thanks!


----------



## R Harkness

Just back from vacation...

*

imprez25,*


Much obliged. I hope your build goes well. Mine was somewhat cursed but in the end came out perfect for me.
*

mhdiab,*


Sorry I don't know the exact brand of remote controlled black out blind I have. I got them from an installation company called Solarfective (in Toronto) if that's any help.


----------



## RonF

Rich, so sorry....somehow I am just now catching your link to all the great pictures and explanations about your wonderful theater. After I ragged numerous times for you to take some for us following all the time the process took. It REALLY turned out sweet!!!! What a great vision and plan you had. You knew what you wanted to achieve & still be on great terms with your wife for this main room, and you damn well did it. Major props!!


Does she enjoy it too very much or more is just happy you are finally done and happy with it?


----------



## R Harkness

RonF,


Thanks for the props.


As for my wife: Yes she enjoys it. She's not into the whole Home Theater thing and rabid movie watching like me, but, thank goodness, she thinks the room came out beautifully (most important to her) and in fact she clearly has some pride in the room when guests come over. (Not that she'll ever admit it to me, but I can tell).


The project was so gruelling that even I resented it for a while. Even after it was finished and working it took me a while to relax and enjoy it, although part of that was I had ongoing remote control issues (that are now solved).


Everything has been working great for many months now and I can hardly express how much I love the room. I use it every day either for listening to music or watching some or all of a movie. And my place has become the go-to place for hosting UFC parties with all my pals who can't believe what it's like watching it in HD on a big screen. Floating in black it's like a window on to the event, like we bought tickets.


But the comfort and cool factor for me blows me away. For instance, listening to music, at night I choose a "mood" lighting scene, which lowers all the lights except some dim beams over the sofa, and with colored lights on the screen. The feeling is like walking into a cool club or fancy restaurant...just super cool vibe with the room slightly undulating in rich colors reflected from the screen. My toes are caressed by the thick, fluffy (but classy-looking) shag rug, which sets the "come in and relax" mood.

I recline on the deep-seated, thickly cushioned sofa, legs up on the soft-topped ottomans, maybe a furry pillow to lean on, and with the remote cue up some surround music to listen to (or my two channel stuff). It's friggin' heaven and I can't believe I can have this experience whenever I want. Last night I put on the Inception sound track (I love movie music) thinking I'd just hear a cut or two, but it was so comfy and involving I listened to the whole album.


It really feels "good for the soul" as it were, to be able to dip into such a relaxing state of mind (especially given I work some crazy long hours in my film work).


Sorry to blab...I guess 8 months on I'm still in the honeymoon phase with my room


----------



## BasicBlak

Wow... Color me TOTALLY AWE-STRUCK!!!! Absolutely phenomenal setup you got there. I'm particularly impressed with how intimate yet grand the environment is. It's quite clear all your hard work has paid off in spades. Congratulations on creating such a beautiful room!


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks a lot BasicBlak.


The comments have been very rewarding because most people, like you, seem to really "get" what I was trying to achieve in terms of the atmosphere, so it indicates I met some success.


Cheers,


----------



## Franin

Rich fantastic room I love the masking.


----------



## R Harkness

Glad you like it Franin.


I was just going through some old threads in the forum and it made me realise it had taken me *two years* just to research and design and the room, then another whole year to do the reno. Yikes.


I never thought I'd have to have so much patience. Funny, now with the all the research behind me and having experience with the reno it feels like I could whip up a similar room much, much faster the next time (if I ever move). Although, naturally, all sorts of unforseen things will go wrong, knowing my luck.


----------



## BasicBlak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/19346911
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot BasicBlak.
> 
> 
> The comments have been very rewarding because most people, like you, seem to really "get" what I was trying to achieve in terms of the atmosphere, so it indicates I met some success.
> 
> 
> Cheers,


_Some_ success, eh? The understatement of the year.







Indeed you did, my friend. A little while ago I sat down to peruse your build thread from start to finish, and I can't help but be amazed not only by the room's transformation but how you were able to navigate the treacherous waters of keeping your family from stringing you up on a lance. (I howled out loud when you nearly "bought it" after your wife discovered the A/C fiasco. Priceless! Fortunately, as they would say back in the Bogie & Bacall days, seems like she ended up being a real Joe about it all.










That projector lift is easily one of the room's star attractions (right after the masking system, of course







). Is yours a modification of one of Flat Lift's standard models, or was it a top-to-bottom custom creation? If the former, could you tell me the model on which it was based? I think something along the lines of what you have might very well solve a pj mounting dilemma I'm currently grappling with. Appreciate your sharing.


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BasicBlak* /forum/post/19350605
> 
> _Some_ success, eh? The understatement of the year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed you did, my friend. A little while ago I sat down to peruse your build thread from start to finish, and I can't help but be amazed not only by the room's transformation but how you were able to navigate the treacherous waters of keeping your family from stringing you up on a lance. (I howled out loud when you nearly "bought it" after your wife discovered the A/C fiasco. Priceless! Fortunately, as they would say back in the Bogie & Bacall days, seems like she ended up being a real Joe about it all.



Oh, there were a lotta close calls on this one.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BasicBlak* /forum/post/19350605
> 
> 
> That projector lift is easily one of the room's star attractions (right after the masking system, of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Is yours a modification of one of Flat Lift's standard models, or was it a top-to-bottom custom creation? If the former, could you tell me the model on which it was based? I think something along the lines of what you have might very well solve a pj mounting dilemma I'm currently grappling with. Appreciate your sharing.



The projector lift has worked out beautifully. It is a really, really fine piece of engineering. Smooth, quiet, reliable and amazing to watch in action.


I first found this particular lift on the company's website:

http://www.flatlift.net/index.php?id=28&lang=en 


The "Pop up Gold." What caught my eye was the telescoping design and the amazing amount of travel in the design, from really short on the floor to way up high. That gave me hope I could actually pull off my projector lift idea.


I contacted Flatlift (main factory in Germany, though they sell via the States), told them my desire to use one of their lifts to hide a projector behind my sofa and raise it up high for use. You can actually use the Pop Up Gold for a projector. They sent me photos from a client who had done so and it looked excellent. They gave me the price for the Pop Up Gold model but suggested a custom-made solution would be even better. Especially as I was trying to get the sitting/retracted height as low as humanly possible. And their price for a complete custom-made job was only $100 more!


Sold!


The company was great to work with in back and forth sessions nailing down exactly what I wanted, always sending me really nice 3D renderings of the design. Very professional and highly recommended if you don't mind parting with the money. For me it's been worth every cent. It not only completely hides my projector when not in use, and gets it to a very tall, perfect height in use, but it is a show stopper and it's also EXTREMELY convenient to be able to get at whatever part of the projector I need. If I'm cleaning it, or fiddling with cables, or changing the bulb, or adjusting it's position to be square with the screen, or whatever, it's so simple to just lift the projector up to a perfectly accessible height to work with.


----------



## Franin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad you like it Franin.
> 
> 
> I was just going through some old threads in the forum and it made me realise it had taken me two years just to research and design and the room, then another whole year to do the reno. Yikes.
> 
> 
> I never thought I'd have to have so much patience. Funny, now with the all the research behind me and having experience with the reno it feels like I could whip up a similar room much, much faster the next time (if I ever move). Although, naturally, all sorts of unforseen things will go wrong, knowing my luck.



I wish back then I knew what I know now I would of not swapped and changed too much, especially the gear( I guess that's part of the fun in this hobby of ours).


Lesson learnt for me next time I build it would have to be right the first time but I'm in that unlucky category also something cannot be done due to a beam, structure who knows what.


----------



## Franin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, there were a lotta close calls on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The projector lift has worked out beautifully. It is a really, really fine piece of engineering. Smooth, quiet, reliable and amazing to watch in action.
> 
> 
> I first found this particular lift on the company's website:
> 
> http://www.flatlift.net/index.php?id=28&lang=en
> 
> 
> The "Pop up Gold." What caught my eye was the telescoping design and the amazing amount of travel in the design, from really short on the floor to way up high. That gave me hope I could actually pull off my projector lift idea.
> 
> 
> I contacted Flatlift (main factory in Germany, though they sell via the States), told them my desire to use one of their lifts to hide a projector behind my sofa and raise it up high for use. You can actually use the Pop Up Gold for a projector. They sent me photos from a client who had done so and it looked excellent. They gave me the price for the Pop Up Gold model but suggested a custom-made solution would be even better. Especially as I was trying to get the sitting/retracted height as low as humanly possible. And their price for a complete custom-made job was only $100 more!
> 
> 
> Sold!
> 
> 
> The company was great to work with in back and forth sessions nailing down exactly what I wanted, always sending me really nice 3D renderings of the design. Very professional and highly recommended if you don't mind parting with the money. For me it's been worth every cent. It not only completely hides my projector when not in use, and gets it to a very tall, perfect height in use, but it is a show stopper and it's also EXTREMELY convenient to be able to get at whatever part of the projector I need. If I'm cleaning it, or fiddling with cables, or changing the bulb, or adjusting it's position to be square with the screen, or whatever, it's so simple to just lift the projector up to a perfectly accessible height to work with.



I have a projector lift stuck in my roof it used to house a sim 2 Domino D35. Unfortunately it was too small to house a jvc so it sitting there not being used.


----------



## Bscarlett

Great to see another user from Toronto here! As soon as I saw the house, I knew it was a Toronto home. I don't have the WAF factor to do what you have accomplished! Who did you work with in Toronto for wiring etc?


----------



## stockmonkey2000

I just came across this thread and it deserves a bump - Beautiful room. Nice to see an audiophile quality theater. I still need to check out your entire build thread.


I came across your thread while searching the threads for turntable because I am considering incorporating a turntable in my theater. Your thread mentions one but I wasn't sure if it had been incorporated yet. I haven't seen a theater that incorporated a turntable within the room so I was looking for ideas.


If you do have the turntable, is it located in the equipment room? I am thinking if I do incorporate a turntable I would like it to be in the room for ease of use. I'm wondering how well a turntable is going to work in a room with big subwoofers.


I haven't heard the MBL's but I have been a long time fan of Hales speakers. I wish Hales was still around. Ive owned Concept 2's, Revelation 3's and Revelation Center as well as the T1's. I still have the T1's which were damaged in shipping. The metal frame that supports the grill bent so I tried refinishing them - After refinishing the cabinets they no longer worked - The drivers are still good but something happened to the crossovers. While they worked though they were amazing speakers. My new current favorites are PBN audio's Montana speakers.


----------



## R Harkness

Wow, another Hales owner (or "ex" Hales owner). Cool.


I still haven't set up my turntable. The turntable situation is probably my biggest compromise in my system. I wanted the HT/music room to be entirely free of equipment. All my source equipment is down the hall in another room. which has worked out great. However, obviously the turntable is another matter. It would be better to have it in my room for ease of use I'm sure. Once I have it up and running I'll report back as to how usable it is, being in another room from the speakers.


Cheers,


----------



## al2fast

Very cool room. Classy and elegant, yet I feel like I could drink a beer in a can without having to hold my pinky out!


----------



## ddgtr

Awesome room. I'm totally loving those MBL's. Could you describe some of the main differences between them and the Hales?


You mentioned that you take them in and out of the room, do you still have the Hales on permanent duty?


Congrats!


----------



## BrolicBeast

This-theater-is-excellent. The star of the show is, without a doubt, that screenwall. I also love those blackout blinds for a particular reason: I currently cannot use my Theater until the day approaches sunset, because it, like yours, is also a living-room and light control is quite the obstacle. I've checked out a number of black-out curtains, but none have been aesthetically pleasing enough; however, the concept of black-out _blinds_ is precisely what I need. Does the installer you used have any branches in the US?


Everything else is stunning as well. I"m excited now, because I see what's possible in a room similar in size to mine. I previously thought having a fixed screen in such a room would be tacky, due to its multi-purpose functionality. I now see that this is NOT the case. Kudos Kudos, and more Kudos. Now i just need to sell my firstborn son (not yet conceived, mind you) to pick up that Stewart Masking Screenwall.


----------



## R Harkness

I'm glad people are enjoying the pics of the room!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddgtr* /forum/post/20239881
> 
> 
> Awesome room. I'm totally loving those MBL's. Could you describe some of the main differences between them and the Hales?
> 
> 
> You mentioned that you take them in and out of the room, do you still have the Hales on permanent duty?
> 
> 
> Congrats!



Hales as you know are a classic dynamic box-speaker design. Nothing unusual.


The MBLs are entirely different beasts. The drivers are formed into spheres so they radiate omnidirectionally instead of mostly forward. Supposedly the idea sound source is just that: a radiating point source, which is what MBL has tried to create. They are very, very highly engineered speakers and damned expensive, normally, which is why I had to find used pair.


So what you get with the MBLs are a seamless tonal balance - no matter where you sit you get the same sound. The imaging, being omnidirectional and having no box surrounding the drivers to diffract the sound, is just about as astoundingly "there" and "boxless" as you can get. Really, you just put them on and they take another step beyond conventional speakers of making the musicians appear magically in front of you. You can stare at the speakers and it doesn't even register that the sound is coming from them.


Their detail and transparency is also astonishing, as is their tonal richness.

Put on a sax recording and it's freaky, like someone is playing in front of you.

I've got recordings of my son playing saxophone and me playing acoustic guitar. I put them on and, before guests enter the room they assume someone is in there playing the instruments! So, pretty fun stuff.


I don't use the MBLs for home theater duty for several reasons:


1. They are very, very low sensitivity and so it's almost impossible for my (relatively affordable) AV receiver to drive them as L/Rs while driving other speakers. The mismatch shuts down the receiver.


2. I want speakers to completely disappear from view when the lights go down for a movie. This works with the conventionally box-shaped Hales speakers because it was easy to make black velvet covers for them. They become invisible in the dark. Whereas the MBLs shiny finish and unconventional shape, and omnidirectional drivers, are hard to cover up with velvet. So they would remain (to my eyes) a bit of a distraction, catching light from the screen in the dark.


3. The L/C/R Hales speakers are made to work with one another so they produce a seamless tonal balance across the front soundstage. This is better than trying to mix the MBLs in with the Hales center channel speaker.


Cheers,


----------



## R Harkness

BrolicBeast,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrolicBeast* /forum/post/20240433
> 
> 
> This-theater-is-excellent. The star of the show is, without a doubt, that screenwall. I also love those blackout blinds for a particular reason: I currently cannot use my Theater until the day approaches sunset, because it, like yours, is also a living-room and light control is quite the obstacle. I've checked out a number of black-out curtains, but none have been aesthetically pleasing enough; however, the concept of black-out _blinds_ is precisely what I need. Does the installer you used have any branches in the US?



The black out blinds are my saviour. I knew that dealing with window light would be an ongoing issue and I didn't want to have to lean over the sofa to pull curtains or blinds day in and day out. So automated blinds make things sooooo easy. Since they are remote controlled you can use any universal remote to control them, make macros or whatever. I have a "System On" button on my universal remote control. One press turns everything on and lowers the window blinds...always pretty neat to experience.


I got mine from a Canadian distributor of solarfective products:

http://www.solarfective.com/ 


But you can find remote controlled blinds everywhere. Since you can usually choose the color of the blind valance and the side aligning slats (the blinds travel through), it's pretty easy to match room decor. I find mine are extremely subtle and neat in the room.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrolicBeast* /forum/post/20240433
> 
> 
> Everything else is stunning as well. I"m excited now, because I see what's possible in a room similar in size to mine. I previously thought having a fixed screen in such a room would be tacky, due to its multi-purpose functionality. I now see that this is NOT the case. Kudos Kudos, and more Kudos.



I'm so glad my room can be any kind of inspiration for you.


I had all the same fears, as did my wife, about me "ruining the room" (actually, my wife would describe it as "you are going to ruin our house!").


I kept saying "No honey, I'm as concerned about aesthetics as you are! I can do this so it looks really nice and not simply awkward or weird" (All the while crossing my fingers behind my back hoping I was right).


It took a lot of trial and error in the design stage. Obvious suggestions for introducing projection based home theater equipment into a living room are things like a drop down screen etc. And using a specialty screen, like a Stewart Firehawk material, to preserve contrast without having to change room decor to a drastic dark theme.


However, I had very strict demands for the viewing experience in the room: The image HAD to be surrounded by black, I didn't like the screen artifacts associated with specialty screens so I wanted a white screen, which meant my having to pay special attention to room color/reflectivity/decor etc. But somehow WITHOUT making the room look like a cave by day.


I wanted the equipment to be invisible.


I wanted the room to double as a high-end 2 channel listening room.


I wanted a fully variable 4 way masking system with a fixed screen....etc.


My project was much more demanding than the average attempt at bringing home theater into a regular room in a house. Hence, so much trial and error in the design stage. Most people will have it much easier than I did.


At one point I figured I'd have curtains that would close off the entire screen wall, so it didn't look like a screening room all the time. My wife thought that was "dumb." "It will just look like you are trying to hide something...a wall of curtains. It's a home theater room, just show the screen."


Turned out I think she was right. I can indeed close off the entire screen wall via the black velvet side masking. I do this for music listening some times. But most of the time you see the screen which is fine because, luckily, the aesthetics worked out so neatly that it looks great as it is.


I've tweaked the room aesthetics since the pictures...adding more luxurious pillows and a variety of throw blankets...most of them with a subtle "fur" theme so everything you touch just sort of invites you to sink in and relax.

Even after a year of use almost every time I walk into the room it almost takes my breath away in terms of how beautiful it looks and how inviting and sinfully comfortable it feels. This to me is the result of sticking to your guns to get what you want. All those details that drove me crazy in the design and construction phase, that could have made my life easier if I dropped them...all of them have worked to make the room feel virtually "perfect" for me.


A lot of others have achieved similarly satisfying results so I think you have every reason for optimism when you get to your project.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrolicBeast* /forum/post/20240433
> 
> 
> 
> Now i just need to sell my firstborn son (not yet conceived, mind you) to pick up that Stewart Masking Screenwall.



That's why I went with the system I put together. If you read my "build thread" (link under my name) I describe how the commercial 4 way masking systems hovered between $20K to $30K...way outta my league. So I took two cheaper, but high quality, commercially built products - the Carada Masquerade for top/bottom masking and the Goelst panel system for side masking - and combined them for 4 way masking. My system is very large, but they cost just under $5K combined. With a universal remote I have all the pre-set image sizes I could want (16 pre-sets at the moment), and I can tweak to any size in between. For $5K it's actually more flexible than most $20K masking systems.


See my build thread if you want more detail on my design decisions and how I achieved them.


Thanks again.


----------



## jnnt29

What a great room. Everythings look like it intergrates well.


----------



## Wittsdream

Absolutely love the setup Rich! I am thinking about picking up the RS20/HD750 for my own HT, and am looking at a 120" screen, viewing distance about 14" feet from the screen with the projector pretty much over my head seated on a sofa similar to yours. Also, I am going to be shelf mounting the projector (instead of ceiling mounting it) at about the same height that you have yours at (6.5 feet from floor). How much did you have to tweak the lens shift in order to avoid keystone/squaring problems with your image?


Thanks!


----------



## R Harkness

Wittsdream


I just made sure my projector was square to the screen. And it's not to high so keystoning never entered the equation. Since I vary the image size a lot, I use lens shift all the time to move the image around, so lens shift varies.


The RS20 is an absolutely superb projector for a set up like mine. It's lens controls have been awesome and very reliable. It's also very quiet in regular bulb mode, so it's fine at not being too high from the viewer's head.


If you are doing 120" make sure you calculate enough gain. If you start with a neutral gain screen you may be putting it into high bulb mode sooner than you think, which is a bit louder. (But not too bad).


----------



## Electric_Haggis

Rich, that is a truly model setup. Very well done.


Short of having a darker rug on the floor, it's pretty much perfect!


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks,


The rug is actually much darker than in the pictures.


However, when I want the whole front area to disappear I have a couple black blankets I throw on the ground.


In fact I've employed some more (new) room treatments so the room has become almost a real "bat-cave" for movie watching. The image quality has been even more amazing...I suspect it can't get much better with this screen/projector.


----------



## avswilier

This is a HT theater of dreams! very good job, Rich!


----------



## tn1krr

Absolutely brilliant setup! My all-time favourite when it comes to keeping HT room also multi-functional yet having uncompromized movie experience. Learned a lot from your light setup/managent with white screen etc. and am currently trying to put these things to good use when designing my own new non-dedicated HT room. So many thanks for detailed descriptions in the build thread and elsewhere. If my new room ends up anywhere near as nice as yours I'll be very very happy.


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks again.


The number of features I wanted perhaps bordered on the extreme, but I use the room every day and after 1 1/2 years I'm only more happy with all the decisions I made.

It all works beautifully.


If you are just starting your room design and can decide on your lighting scenario it's amazing what you can achieve - and what kind of negatives you can easily avoid - with a little foresight.


A zoned lighting system, e.g. pot or track lights that are in groups so you can turn some on and some off, is terrific. Especially if you can control them via dimmers...and even better via remote control. There are a lot of "affordable" systems out there to do so.


This way you can really set moods to the room that make it look it's best and that suit exactly how you want the room to feel at any given time. Sort of like getting heated floors for your bathroom. Once you've lived with it, you don't wanna live without it


----------



## elmalloc

where'd you get that rug?


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmalloc* /forum/post/20649943
> 
> 
> where'd you get that rug?



Elte Carpets in Canada. It's a Mitchel Gold dark brown shag rug. I absolutely love it - it's luxurious, soft, comfortable, easy to clean...


----------



## taffman

Hi Rich,

I am trying to locate some of the programmable LED lights that you use in your HT. Could you post a link to the suppliers catalog page?


----------



## R Harkness

taffman,


Google colored LED lights and you can find them sold many places on the web (which is how I bought them). For instance:

http://www.thinkgeek.com/homeoffice/831e/ 

http://www.chinavasion.com/product_i...reless-remote/ 

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-Color-E2.../dp/B001JHZSEG 


For the price I can't imagine anything more bang-for-the-buck in terms of adding mood and "pizazz" to the room.


----------



## violator_1977

question: If my main preference is for scope viewing, but am limited by width, could I get a 16:9 inch screen at say 10 feet wide and mask horizontally (as Rich has done using Carada), and then set a projector (whatever that might be) to have memory to where it could switch between proper scope (i mean no chopping off the top and bottom of a scope movie but fill it in appropriately to a 10 foot width)?


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *violator_1977* /forum/post/20757843
> 
> 
> question: If my main preference is for scope viewing, but am limited by width, could I get a 16:9 inch screen at say 10 feet wide and mask horizontally (as Rich has done using Carada), and then set a projector (whatever that might be) to have memory to where it could switch between proper scope (i mean no chopping off the top and bottom of a scope movie but fill it in appropriately to a 10 foot width)?



I'm not sure exactly what you want.


If you buy a 16:9 screen, whatever the width (e.g. 10 feet wide) then you don't need any special projector or lens memory for scope to fill that width - scope automatically fills that width.


Normally this would leave you with the standard black bars above/beneath the scope image. But with masking like the Carada, you just make those bars invisible.


But this is really just a normal Constant Image Width concept, the type most people have when buying a 16:9 screen.


Whereas some people feel 2:35:1 scope movies should be wider than 16:9 content and if you want that you have to buy a screen wider than 16:9, like a 2:35:1 ratio screen.


Or even, if you want to do something more like constant area a 2:0 screen can make that easier.


----------



## |Tch0rT|

Wow that's an amazing and unique system. I totally dig the variable image size system, that's the way to do it. Great job!


----------



## violator_1977

Right, basically it is like a CIW constant image width design. The question was relating to what I have heard that a CIW results in lost pixels/resolution whereas a CIH does not. My question is that if this is the case, could this (lost pixels) somehow be addressed by programmed zoom /image shifting settings?


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *violator_1977* /forum/post/20764386
> 
> 
> Right, basically it is like a CIW constant image width design. The question was relating to what I have heard that a CIW results in lost pixels/resolution whereas a CIH does not. My question is that if this is the case, could this (lost pixels) somehow be addressed by programmed zoom /image shifting settings?



violator,


It appears you have a few misunderstandings about CIH, CIW, resolution etc, which would probably best be addressed in the CIH forum.


However, in a nutshell:


CIW (a standard 16:9 screen) does not result in any lost resolution whatsoever, no matter if you put on a 16:9 image, a 2:35:1 scope image etc. You will see ALL the pixel information encoded on your Blu-Ray or DVD disc. Hence full resolution is always maintained in a CIW system.


Where you may be getting confused concerns Anamorphic Lenses in Constant Image Height (CIH) systems. If you are using the "zoom" method to enlarge your CinemaScope images to fit your 2:35:1 CIH screen, then it's possible in some situations to notice the pixel line grids between the pixels, which is distracting to some people. You can decrease the visibility of the pixel lines by a combination of re-scaling the CinemaScope image to use your projector panel's full pixel resolution (many projectors have such a function) and then adding an anamorphic lens to expand the image on your screen, rather than zooming.


On this issue it helps to understand the differences between "Source Resolution" (the resolution contained for instance on a Blu-Ray disc) and your Projector's Resolution (how many pixels it is capable of displaying at once).


A more in depth explanation would probably best occur in the CIH forum so I'd suggest taking your question there.


Cheers,


----------



## pokekevin

that just looks super cozy! screen looks great!


-Kevin


----------



## maximus74

Hello,Harkness


I have JVC RS20 and i am planning to project on Da-lite JKP Affinity HD Progressive 1.1,110" diagonal,throw distance 13 feet

It is a good choice?

I have dedicated room,dark walls,floor,ceiling.

Thanks


----------



## R Harkness

If that is a 1.1 gain screen, then I'd think you'll do fine. I have a 1.3 gain screen and it is plenty bright for 110" diagonal 16:9 images.


----------



## maximus74




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/20945129
> 
> 
> If that is a 1.1 gain screen, then I'd think you'll do fine. I have a 1.3 gain screen and it is plenty bright for 110" diagonal 16:9 images.



Even if my PJ is ceiling mounted?


----------



## R Harkness

I don't see why not. My projector is mostly above screen height. The JP screens as far as I know are regular angular reflective designs, with wide viewing angles, so I don't see why ceiling mounting would make any difference. Most screen makers expect a ceiling mounted projection angle.


But you can always ask Da-Lite to make sure.


----------



## maximus74




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness* /forum/post/20945377
> 
> 
> I don't see why not. My projector is mostly above screen height. The JP screens as far as I know are regular angular reflective designs, with wide viewing angles, so I don't see why ceiling mounting would make any difference. Most screen makers expect a ceiling mounted projection angle.
> 
> 
> But you can always ask Da-Lite to make sure.



Thanks


----------



## pokekevin

I must admit when I first saw this thread I mainly looked at pictures







But I was reading another thread that you posted in about your masking system so I decided to come back to take a closer look...and WOW. Well done on the masking system you got there. Really like how the projector is raised too!


----------



## WebEffect

Why has no one mentioned the serious white crush in those film images? You're losing a ton of detail, and the picture looks unnatural. Use a contrast pattern, and lower that contrast!


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WebEffect* /forum/post/21082749
> 
> 
> Why has no one mentioned the serious white crush in those film images? You're losing a ton of detail, and the picture looks unnatural. Use a contrast pattern, and lower that contrast!



Perhaps no one has mentioned it because most understand that screen shots taken of a projected image usually are compromised versions of the projected image.


The "crushed" areas you speak of are a result of the camera used to take the shots, not the projected image. Most consumer cameras do not have the dynamic range capable of capturing the full dynamics of a projector like the JVC. Hence if you expose the camera for the mid tones in a contrasty scene, the brightest and darkest areas will often go outside the range of the camera, losing detail.


The actual projected image retains the detail in the bright/dark areas.


Hope that helps.


----------



## pooie

Hey Hark. Not sure if you check this thread any longer. I'll ask anyways, maybe other folks can answer.

The clothing around your screen, what did you use to hold them up? glue, tape? I can't seem to figure out a good way to do it.


Nice room btw


----------



## coffeeman101

and to top it off, that remote system you have is KICKASS!


wow....


----------



## Electric_Haggis

Here Here to all of the above.


This would have to be my all-time favourite setup in a non-dedicated room.


Great stuff.


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks again for the comments.


I know a 4-way masking variable image size system is simply over-board for most people, but I can barely express how happy I am having this system! I use the variable masking virtually every time I watch in my room (because it is so easy and the results are so compelling). Sometimes I might watch some content at around 86" to 94" (16:9) diagonal and it will feel like I've got an incredible, but really huge, plasma on the wall. Just super sharp and vivid.


Other times I'll blow the image up to 136" diagonal (source quality permitting) and it feels like I'm at IMAX. Especially with my new "4k" (lite) RS55 projector, Avatar-type content can be projected huge but it remains so sharp and detailed it's like you could fall into the picture. And every movie, no matter how different or quirky it's aspect ratio, is always perfectly masked against a black background. I don't even know what black bars on a movie look like anymore








Actually, that's not quite true. I've occasionally on a CinemaScope 2:35:1 film opened the top/bottom masking, to remind myself of what the image looked like with the projected "black bars" visible. My JVC projector has amazing black levels for a projector, but even so, the difference between the projected "black" and the pure pitch darkness of a real velvet masking is quite pronounced. I find myself somewhat shocked at just what a difference it makes with the masking off and then deployed - without the masking the image just looks to me "unfinished" and more washed out. With the masking the image gets that "professional cinema" look and the image pops, and looks much more complete and less washed out. It then takes on a sort of "magic window" effect, which you get when you only see pure image information against a pitch black background.


Anyone intrigued by masking (even non-electric versions)...give it a whirl. It's hard to go back once you've seen it on your system.


----------



## pokekevin

Rich,


Does your masking system automatically change to the content being viewed? Or by the uni remote you have set up? Also when I build a theater..one day... I'd love to check out how you made that system! I was considering going with a 2.1 screen to compromise with 16x9 and 2.34 content but gee I feel like the masking system would just be...worth it!


-Kevin


----------



## Electric_Haggis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pokekevin* /forum/post/21497418
> 
> 
> Rich,
> 
> 
> Does your masking system automatically change to the content being viewed? Or by the uni remote you have set up? Also when I build a theater..one day... I'd love to check out how you made that system! I was considering going with a 2.1 screen to compromise with 16x9 and 2.34 content but gee I feel like the masking system would just be...worth it!
> 
> 
> -Kevin



DEFINITELY don't compromise those aspects!


You don't need to spend much at all if it's manual. Only takes a few secs to adjust anyway.


See my signature below...


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pokekevin* /forum/post/21497418
> 
> 
> Rich,
> 
> 
> Does your masking system automatically change to the content being viewed? Or by the uni remote you have set up? Also when I build a theater..one day... I'd love to check out how you made that system! I was considering going with a 2.1 screen to compromise with 16x9 and 2.34 content but gee I feel like the masking system would just be...worth it!
> 
> 
> -Kevin



No my screen doesn't automatically change per movie (that would be quite a neat trick).


But my RTI universal remote control makes it pretty effortless to change image sizes. If I'm at a 105" diagonal 16:9 image and want to watch a CinemaScope movie in 2:35:1, I might choose the 118" wide setting.


So on my "screen size" page I choose the "118 WIDE" button. That macro starts the masking system automatically going to that image shape/size. At the same time it throws up my projector's lens pattern and goes into "zoom" mode. I just press the zoom button and while my screen is changing shape, I'm zooming the image out to the new size. By the time the screen masking has stopped, I've usually got to the new image size.


So, a couple of button presses and not too many seconds later I'm watching a new screen size/shape.


This actually looks so cool when it's happening that guests ooh and aah at the process, which is always fun.


BTW, my new JVC RS55 projector has some automatic lens control settings, so 3 separate screen size zoom/shift/focus settings can be stored as pre-sets. So I'll likely set those up for some common image sizes that I use, which will mean a single button press or so, and all done automatically.


However, it won't be a big help in my particular situation, since I vary the image size so much only having 3 options on the JVC doesn't cover a lot.


----------



## R Harkness

*UPDATE ON MY SYSTEM CONFIGURATION:*

*ADDITION 1 - JVC RS55 PROJECTOR WITH E-shift*


This replaces my JVC RS20 projector. The new RS55 does "4k-lite" by doubling up the pixels to a 4K resolution count, and then upscaling images to that resolution. This has the benefits of making pixel structure invisible at any image size, and also allows for some cool new processing that can make for an even more detailed, clearer looking image from Blu-Rays. The contrast has also improved so the image is super dynamic. All things combined makes for an eye-popping new image!

*ADDITION 2 - ANAMORPHIC LENS*


I just added a Panamorph UH480 Anamorphic Lens. This helps me get an even larger image, given my limited throw distance. The image through the UH480 lens, via the JVC RS55 projector at about 124" wide for CinemaScope

is absolutely killer! I will still be using my zooming system extensively, though, as I like to vary the image size for various reasons.































*ADDITION 3: NEW HIDDEN BLACK CURTAIN SYSTEM*


This is at least as important an addition as the Panamorph Anamorphic lens. I have tried to keep my room welcoming and cheery by day, but able to go into "bat-cave" like performance for watching movies, to maintain maximum image contrast (killing wall reflections) and to make the room "disappear" leaving only the image visible. This has succeeded wildly. Here's one image with the black curtains drawn around the room:











More can be found here, with descriptions on how I did it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21997678 


Thank you for stopping by


----------



## Scott Simonian

_Very_ nice, Rich!


----------



## pokekevin

This still remains of my favorite rooms to look at. Great job Rich!


----------



## nathanddrews

Every time I think that I don't really need CIH, I just look at this thread and it changes my mind for me.


----------



## R Harkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nathanddrews*  /t/1259917/richs-variable-image-size-system/60#post_23051252
> 
> 
> Every time I think that I don't really need CIH, I just look at this thread and it changes my mind for me.



Cool. Thanks.


It's about 3 years since I finished and if anything I find myself more giddy about using the room than ever. Soooo glad I did it.


----------



## R Harkness

It's been interesting watching the high end Home Theater installation business touting more and more new systems that employ the variable image size concept, where one is not stuck only with a fixed image height (CIH) or fixed image width (standard set up). Instead the image is to be varied in size either to maintain a constant image size impact throughout aspect ratios (somewhat like Constant Image Area) and/or to vary the image size depending on the source content being used. Here's yet another example, this time the venerable Stewart Filmscreen touting their new Director's Choice "infinite masking" system:

http://akhomecinema.azexis.com/blog/2013/02/14/directors-choice-demo-at-ise-2013 


I felt like the odd-ball out on this issue, skipping even CIH to use a wall-filling screen and employ 4-way automated masking with zooming to simply vary the image size to maximize the impact of any particular movie or source quality. It's been the single best decision I made of all for my home theater. I never grow used to any single image size as it's so often changing so the thrill of going to the largest image size, or even using a smaller but super-sharp and punchy image size, never wears off. And never any black bars, always the image floating in a field of jet black.


What gets me shaking my head is the EXPENSE of these systems, aimed as they are at the ultra high end clients. And the way these systems are touted they are the newest, state of the art concept "vary the image size TO THE SOURCE! YOU ONLY CAN GET THAT WITH THIS PRODUCT!" to justify these systems - some in the over $100K price range. Meanwhile, I'm thinking "Hey, I've got pretty much that...completely variable masking, automated via macros with as many pre-sets as I want, even some automated zooming now...and the masking system making this possible I did for around $4,500."


But..salesmen gotta sell...


----------



## pokekevin

One day when I have the time I'm going to build a masking system like yours...one day


----------



## R Harkness

Just dropping into this thread for a moment...


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hikarate*  /t/1259917/richs-variable-image-size-system#post_18849038
> 
> 
> Its like HT is a really difficult math problem and you just solved it.



This comment made me LOL the most. I think it's my favorite comment on my system because it feels the most accurate to the designing and building experience . It was like a complex math problem, or more like a rubik's cube, in which I was trying to "have it all" and get every piece into place, but every time in my design I had to tweak one parameter, it affected all the others and I had to re-design everything back into place so nothing in the end felt compromised. And 3 years later it still feels successful, thank goodness.


I'm sure many others here can empathize with trying to solve the HT math problem.


----------



## wse


Rich,

 

Your theater is very nice, elegant and well design, I could not agree more about the wide screen.  My screen is 10 feet wide we sit 12 feet away from it and I love it I wished I had a 14 feet wide screen 

 

Once I have a dedicated room my goal is to have the largest screen I can with black velvet around the images in your pictures pop out of the screen!


----------



## R Harkness

Thanks wse.


It's interesting, in using my variable size approach even though I can now have up to a 125" wide image when I want, I often choose not to have the image that big. Source quality really varies and some movies look better at somewhat smaller sizes.


----------



## wse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R Harkness*  /t/1259917/richs-variable-image-size-system/90#post_23395226
> 
> 
> Thanks wse. It's interesting, in using my variable size approach even though I can now have up to a 125" wide image when I want, I often choose not to have the image that big. Source quality really varies and some movies look better at somewhat smaller sizes.



You are welcome, yes DVDs don't look good on a 10 feet wide screen, Blu Ray if well mastered look fantastic! I can't wait for true 4K


----------



## eladrion

hello my friend i saw your setup which is beautiful by the way and you gave me the solution for my room!I will use black velvet curtains on the walls so make the room disappear and i will keep their bright colour for when i will not watch movies...the only place i cant put black velvet is behind the screen and at ceiling.I was thinking to paint those 2 Dark Grey!whats your opinion?


----------



## AidenL

@R Harkness, whats your seating distance from that screen, and what height is the bottom from the floor please?


----------



## davisnub

Rich, 

I always love referring back to this thread when I show people the capabilities of even a small space. Do you think you could rehost the images? It looks like they dont load anymore


----------



## R Harkness

davisnub said:


> Rich,
> 
> I always love referring back to this thread when I show people the capabilities of even a small space. Do you think you could rehost the images? It looks like they dont load anymore


Unfortunately imageshack, which hosted my images, changed their policy and you have to pay a monthly fee for photos that can be linked to any forums. I didn't pay the fee (didn't even know about it) and they dumped my photos. Gone.

If I can find time I'll repost at least some of them. Not sure what on-line image hosting to use at this point.


----------



## Mike_WI

R Harkness said:


> Unfortunately imageshack, which hosted my images, changed their policy and you have to pay a monthly fee for photos that can be linked to any forums. I didn't pay the fee (didn't even know about it) and they dumped my photos. Gone.
> 
> If I can find time I'll repost at least some of them. Not sure what on-line image hosting to use at this point.


It's a bummer when you "invest" in a forum and then it changes policy or disappears.
I did that with various forums before becoming active on AVS.
Bummer.

Mike


----------



## Stecchino

R Harkness said:


> Unfortunately imageshack, which hosted my images, changed their policy and you have to pay a monthly fee for photos that can be linked to any forums. I didn't pay the fee (didn't even know about it) and they dumped my photos. Gone.
> 
> If I can find time I'll repost at least some of them. Not sure what on-line image hosting to use at this point.



I didn't notice that others had inquired about your photos. If you want to snap a few new ones you can throw them up here. Easy to use and less cruft than the old services. http://postimage.org


----------



## R Harkness

Stecchino said:


> I didn't notice that others had inquired about your photos. If you want to snap a few new ones you can throw them up here. Easy to use and less cruft than the old services. http://postimage.org


Thanks for the suggestion. I also wondered about using Google Photos (?)


----------



## Stecchino

R Harkness said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I also wondered about using Google Photos (?)




There are certainly many options. Google photos would likely stick around for a long time. The service I listed might be simpler to use as you can just upload and embed links.


----------

