# Sticky  Basic Speaker Setup FAQ



## cel4145

*Basic Speaker FAQ*

This speaker FAQ is intended to answer some of the basic questions about speakers and putting together a home audio setup. 

*See post #2 for rules before posting in this thread*. This is NOT a recommendations or technical assistance thread. If you need help, you will want to start your own thread in the AVS Speaker forum, providing the information in item #1 below. 

*1) I need help with picking out an HT or stereo setup. What kind of information should I provide? *

When creating a new thread in the Speaker forum for help with recommendations for an audio setup, be sure to include

1) Your budget.
2) Your listening interests: movies/gaming/music--and whether or not any of those are your primary concern.
3) Your existing audio equipment (make/models) if any. Include comments about what you hope to improve upon. 
4) The size of your room. Please also mention if there are adjacent open areas and how big they are (important for subwoofer choice). 
5) Any placement restrictions.
6) Any aesthetic or size concerns. 
7) Any equipment you are already considering (or would not consider). 
8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.)

If you are seeking help with configuring or troubleshooting an existing setup, be sure to give the make/model for your entire setup and try to describe the problem with good detail. 

Once you have given good, detailed information for what you need help with, provide a title for your post that helps people to understand what you are looking for.

*2) I have speaker make/model X. What center channel goes with my speakers? *

For best SQ, it is important for your front soundstage to timbre match, which gives you a smooth transition as sound pans from left to right (and vice versa) and may help with dialogue clarity. 

Because of this, the optimum choice is the exact same speaker as your front left and right. The center channel designed by manufacturers is the next best option, but it is a slight compromise over using the exact same speaker. The reason that many people go with manufacturer designed center channels is that they cannot accommodate a vertically placed speaker as a center channel, and many speakers cannot be turned on their side (they are not designed to disperse sound properly that way). 

It is possible that other speakers in the same speaker model line will work well, too, because the tweeter is often the same/similar and the tonal signature of the drivers are as well. 

Using a mismatched center channel from a different manufacturer--or a different speaker model line by the same manufacturer--may work worse than no center at all, and it is next to impossible to predict what speaker from another manufacturer would work well.

To find out if other center channels from the same manufacturer might work well with your front left and right, look for an owners thread on AVS for that manufacturer and ask for recommendations. 

*3) How do I place my speakers in my room?*

Placement can have a significant impact on both speaker and subwoofer performance. The following links are a good place to start for learning more:
http://www.audioholics.com/home-the...-setup-tips-for-upgraded-home-theater-systems 
http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/home-theater-speaker-layout-an-essential-guide
http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-setup/easy-subwoofer-placement

*4) Why are people telling me to go with larger bookshelves instead of satellite speakers? *

Small satellites have tiny drivers (e.g. 3”) that lack the dynamics for filling a large room with sound in comparison to larger driver bookshelves (e.g. 5.5” or 6”). The tweeters may also be smaller as well or more limited in overall sound output, also limiting dynamics.

Small satellites also need a higher crossover with a sub. Consequently the bass may become more localizable--you can tell the bass is coming from the sub. And you may need a more resolving subwoofer since the sub has to handle more midbass; the lower quality of a budget entry level sub that sounds OK with a lower crossover when used with bookshelves or towers may call attention to its flaws more with small satellites. 

*5) What is the advantage of towers/floorstanding speakers over bookshelf/monitor size?*

Towers can typically provide deeper bass extension over bookshelves. However, if you are buying a good subwoofer (and you should), this advantage is often negated because you can crossover your speakers at around 80hz. 

Towers will typically offer better dynamics and overall power handling than bookshelves in the same speaker manufacturer model line. However, for the difference in price, you may be able to find a better quality speaker from another speaker model line which offers similar benefits to the tower in terms of dynamics and power handling. 

*6) I have speaker make/model X. What surround speakers should I get? *

Since the surround channels are usually only used for effects sounds and ambient noise, it is generally thought to be less important that they have tonal match to the front stage speakers. To put it another way, it is important to keep all the front stage speakers matching for a good sound, but one can have somewhat different surround speakers without nearly as much penalty. However, this is not a completely universally accepted idea, and there is some debate on the importance of matching surrounds. With the expansion from five to seven channel surround sound in lossless codecs and the recent announcement of Dolby Atmos for home systems, the surround channels do seem to be gaining greater importance, so it may be more beneficial to use matching speakers in future surround sound setups, especially if one is using direct-radiating (monopole) speakers for surround speakers. 

If one intends to eventually upgrade to Dolby Atmos, then direct radiating is the appropriate choice since it is required for Dolby Atmos implementation. Otherwise, to learn more about whether bipole, dipole, or direct radiating (monopole) speakers are best for your needs, consult this lengthy discussion on AVS and read A Guide to Bipolar, Dipolar, & Direct-Radiating Monopole Surround Speakers Part I & Part II. If all that reading seems overwhelming, then going with a direct radiating speaker certainly works well as a default choice. 

*7) Will biwiring my speakers to my AVR improve the sound quality? *

Many people confuse biamping with biwiring. Biamping can certainly improve sound quality, but it requires active crossovers which passive speakers typically are not setup to use.

Biwiring offers no sound quality advantage. Speaker manufacturers provide biwire terminals on passive speakers and AVR manufacturers offer biwiring capability because some audiophiles believe the myth that it does.

*8) What kind of speaker wire and what gauge speaker wire do I need? *

The gauge speaker wire you need is based upon the impedance of your speakers and the length of the wire runs. Consult the table on this page (scroll down). You could certainly go with a lower # gauge (thicker copper wire) than what the table suggests.

Any oxygen free 100% copper speaker wire will work well. You do not need to buy expensive speaker cables. Banana plugs can be convenient for hooking up your speakers if they work with your speaker terminals and receiver, but they are not necessary for good sound quality.

Search the forum, and you’ll find recommended speaker wire and banana plugs. Generally there is no need to create a new thread just to find that out. 

*9) Should I buy expensive cables? *

No. Scientific evidence does not support the benefit of expensive cables. For example, there are $10 audio interconnects that should perform as well as $100 ones. 

Search the forum, and you’ll find recommended cables. Generally there is no need to create a new thread just to find that out. 

*10) How do I choose a subwoofer to match my speakers?* 

Subwoofer choice is at first dependent on the volume area of your room--including any open areas--and your listening volume. Too little sub and your sub will struggle (or be unable) to keep up with your speakers, and you might overdrive it. As subwoofers get closer to their maximum volume, they also tend to have more distortion. Now if you are using it nearfield for a computer setup (approximately 3 ft away), then subwoofer performance based on the room size is not a concern. 

You need to consider the low end frequency extension capability of the sub. For music, a good general guide is that you want extension down to 30hz. However, movies have deeper bass extension where a lot of special effects content is. Many AVS members feel that solid low 20hz (or lower) extension is a big plus for a good subwoofer for HT usage

A sub is a big driver, in a big, heavy enclosure (box), and it has an amp. It is expensive to ship. So most AVS members feel there are significant price/performance benefits on spending more on a sub than most people new to home audio realize: quality and performance does improve quite a bit with a higher budget. When choosing a subwoofer, there are also Internet direct vendors that offer much better price/performance values than traditional speaker company subs that you can buy at a store. 

There are still other considerations regarding subwoofer choice. Subwoofer recommendations and questions are best addressed in the AVS subwoofer forum, and you can learn about the different Internet direct vendors, as well as current online deals for entry levels subs. Be sure to read this post instructing you on what information to provide before seeking advice: http://www.avsforum.com/t/989316/want-advice-on-what-sub-to-purchase-please-read-this-before-posting

*11) I have questions about different characteristics of speaker design and their specifications.*

See this AVS Forum feature article written by Mark Henniger, aka user imagic: 12 Things to Consider when Shopping for Speakers . It will answer a lot of additional questions you might come up with in trying to choose speakers. 

*My question has not been answered here. What do I do?* 

If your question pertains to some particular aspect of how to select audio equipment or what to buy, try googling what you are looking for with "AVS" as a keyword. That's the easiest way to find things on the website. 

Otherwise, start your own thread


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## cel4145

*Goal*

My hope is that we could build a Speaker FAQ that could be referenced instead of having to answer some of the same questions over and over again. Maybe it could end up a sticky. 

Please make suggestions for improving the existing FAQ by posting below. 

Please suggest additional Q&A answer pairings. Provide the text you would like to see. If I think a new FAQ seems too controversial, I'll invite comment from others. Otherwise, I'll add it to the list of FAQs in the first post. 

*Rules for Posting*

This is not a recommendation thread. If you need recommendations for speakers and or audio equipment, start your own thread.

This thread is not for arguing about whether or not you agree with the answers to these FAQs if you have opinions that are not supported by science and that are not commonly shared by AVS members (e.g., buying expensive cables).

If you need clarification of something described above, feel free to ask. Maybe someone will help. If you have questions about other things regarding speakers and audio setups, you should research the forum and maybe start your own thread. In other words, don't see this as a general catch all thread for asking any question.


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## shadyJ

Along the lines of questions regarding the best center channel, here is something I see a lot:

*I have speaker make/model X. What surround speakers should I get? *

Since the surround channels are usually only used for effects sounds and ambient noise, it is generally thought to be less important that they have tonal match to the front stage speakers. To put it another way, it is important to keep all the front stage speakers matching for a good sound, but one can have somewhat different surround speakers without nearly as much penalty. However, this is not a completely universally accepted idea, and there is some debate on the importance of matching surrounds. With the expansion from five to seven channel surround sound in lossless codecs and the recent announcement of Dolby Atmos for home systems, the surround channels do seem to be gaining greater importance, so it may be more beneficial to use matching speakers in future surround sound setups, especially if one is using direct-radiating (monopole) speakers for surround speakers. 

That brings us to the question, "what type of surround speaker is the best?", which is a lengthy discussion in itself, so we will not try to answer that here. Professional Cinema Atmos systems require monopole surrounds, and since Atmos allows for much more discrete sound imaging, direct-radiating monopole speakers would seem to be the most appropriate surround speaker type for home Atmos systems much like their commercial cinema counterparts.


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## Steve119

I was wondering what to do about a same manufacture centre speaker as the one they make been given bad reviews and am using a cube centre. Should I try a different manufacturer centre speaker or should I use a same manufacturers bookshelf speaker?


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## cel4145

Steve119 said:


> I was wondering what to do about a same manufacture centre speaker as the one they make been given bad reviews and am using a cube centre. Should I try a different manufacturer centre speaker or should I use a same manufacturers bookshelf speaker?


The best practice is to pick out the speakers for your front soundstage based upon all three being a good choice and a good match. If you are trying to find a work around for that having already bought the left/right, the best you can do is see if there is an owners thread here for the brand and see if anyone has found a work around for your particular speakers. Otherwise, the only solution for a good soundstage would seem to be to get different speakers.


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## Transmaniacon

Fantastic post, this needs to be a sticky!


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## Warner2Bruce

What about something regarding sensitivity ratings when comparing speakers from different manufacturers?


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## cel4145

shadyJ said:


> Along the lines of questions regarding the best center channel, here is something I see a lot:
> 
> *I have speaker make/model X. What surround speakers should I get? *
> 
> Since the surround channels are usually only used for effects sounds and ambient noise, it is generally thought to be less important that they have tonal match to the front stage speakers. To put it another way, it is important to keep all the front stage speakers matching for a good sound, but one can have somewhat different surround speakers without nearly as much penalty. However, this is not a completely universally accepted idea, and there is some debate on the importance of matching surrounds. With the expansion from five to seven channel surround sound in lossless codecs and the recent announcement of Dolby Atmos for home systems, the surround channels do seem to be gaining greater importance, so it may be more beneficial to use matching speakers in future surround sound setups, especially if one is using direct-radiating (monopole) speakers for surround speakers.
> 
> That brings us to the question, "what type of surround speaker is the best?", which is a lengthy discussion in itself, so we will not try to answer that here. Professional Cinema Atmos systems require monopole surrounds, and since Atmos allows for much more discrete sound imaging, direct-radiating monopole speakers would seem to be the most appropriate surround speaker type for home systems as well as professional cinemas.


This is great! 

But I'm wondering if it's good to imply just because Atmos uses monopole that monopole is necessarily better? Maybe instead of the last paragraph it's better just to leave it at something like "If one intends to eventually upgrade to Dolby Atmos, then direct radiating is the appropriate choice since it is required for Dolby Atmos implementation. Otherwise, to learn more about whether bipole, dipole, or direct radiating is best for your needs, consult this lengthy discussion on AVS and read A Guide to Bipolar, Dipolar, & Direct-Radiating Monopole Surround Speakers Part I & Part II" 

What do you think? 




In other words, leave it open for considering bipole and dipole since not everyone agrees that direct radiating works better.


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## zieglj01

Transmaniacon said:


> Fantastic post, this needs to be a sticky!


+1
Yes a sticky.


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## cel4145

Transmaniacon said:


> Fantastic post, this needs to be a sticky!


Thanks! I hope you'll come up with some new ones if you think of anything and help on developing the content. Seems a better use of our time than writing the same things over and over again. 

Also, it could work well to centralize some more particular questions about the items covered in the FAQ, like Steve119's question already in the thread. I notice you see a lot of that in the Audyssey FAQ on AVS and some other types of guides.


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## cel4145

Warner2Bruce said:


> What about something regarding sensitivity ratings when comparing speakers from different manufacturers?


If you want to write it up. I am happy to maintain the main FAQ, provide feedback on suggestions, and even do copy editing (if necessary). But I'm not volunteering to write them all 

Could be good to have a Q&A like that. What about a more general, "How do I compare wattage, sensitivity, and impedance ratings between speakers?" That way the whole issue of the difficulty of doing so could be addressed at once?


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## shadyJ

cel4145 said:


> This is great!
> 
> But I'm wondering if it's good to imply just because Atmos uses monopole that monopole is necessarily better? Maybe instead of the last paragraph it's better just to leave it at something like "If one intends to eventually upgrade to Dolby Atmos, then direct radiating is the appropriate choice since it is required for Dolby Atmos implementation. Otherwise, to learn more about whether bipole, dipole, or direct radiating is best for your needs, consult this lengthy discussion on AVS and read A Guide to Bipolar, Dipolar, & Direct-Radiating Monopole Surround Speakers Part I & Part II"
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other words, leave it open for considering bipole and dipole since not everyone agrees that direct radiating works better.


I was trying to stay away from the implication that monopole is better, as, after all, better is a matter of subjective preference. I think it's fair to say it is better for Atmos, given what is known about Atmos at the moment. Maybe I can reword it with a short description of the pros and cons of each design.


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## zieglj01

Warner2Bruce said:


> What about something regarding sensitivity ratings when comparing speakers from different manufacturers?


I for one, do not put my primary focus on the sensitivity ratings - the key for me, is the speaker as
a whole. The sonic-signature, realistic sound with good resolution for detail, definition and depth, are
key factors for me.

Something that can/may play louder - is not a sign that it is really a better speaker.


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## Warner2Bruce

cel4145 said:


> If you want to write it up. I am happy to maintain the main FAQ, provide feedback on suggestions, and even do copy editing (if necessary). But I'm not volunteering to write them all
> 
> Could be good to have a Q&A like that. What about a more general, "How do I compare wattage, sensitivity, and impedance ratings between speakers?" That way the whole issue of the difficulty of doing so could be addressed at once?


I would if I knew what the "correct" answers were. I simply suggested it thinking it might be beneficial for others like myself who were wondering how to make sense of the different specs.


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## SyntheticShrimp

I'd be careful comparing sensitivity specs without independent measurements and/or SPL charts. It seems to be fairly common for manufacturers to optimistically interpret their sensitivity.


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## Transmaniacon

It might be worthwhile to explain what the impedance and sensitivity are in a general sense, and how that relates to speaker performance. But yes a lot of measurements are inflated or presented in an advantageous manner.


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## cel4145

Warner2Bruce said:


> I would if I knew what the "correct" answers were. I simply suggested it thinking it might be beneficial for others like myself who were wondering how to make sense of the different specs.


OK. There are certainly other things that can be added to the FAQ. But we need people to write things up more than suggestions for what to add.


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## dsrussell

zieglj01 said:


> I for one, do not put my primary focus on the sensitivity ratings - the key for me, is the speaker as
> a whole. The sonic-signature, realistic sound with good resolution for detail, definition and depth, are
> key factors for me.
> 
> Something that can/may play louder - is not a sign that it is really a better speaker.


I agree. My main speakers are around 85 dB sensitivity rating, not what you'd call efficient. But that's not why I purchased them.

However, efficient and less efficient speakers can throw just about anyone off when comparing competing speakers in a store environment. A speaker that is more efficient may sound a dB or two louder, and that is noticeable. And if it's noticeable, it's human nature to think they might be better. Add that fact to the sales person telling you how more "open" and "dynamic" speaker A is from speaker B, and you get the point. I always recommend taking a dB meter with you to auditions where you can level match the speakers, thus putting them on a level playing field.


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## dsrussell

Bump. This is too important not to keep it on the first page .


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## Kysersose

Stickyfied!


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## cel4145

Kysersose said:


> Stickyfied!


Thanks! 

Now I hope that people join together to work on any other FAQ items we need.


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## Steve119

cel4145 said:


> The best practice is to pick out the speakers for your front soundstage based upon all three being a good choice and a good match. If you are trying to find a work around for that having already bought the left/right, the best you can do is see if there is an owners thread here for the brand and see if anyone has found a work around for your particular speakers. Otherwise, the only solution for a good soundstage would seem to be to get different speakers.


I have been looking at floorstanders so i think I am going to move one of the A25's to the centre channel when I can afford to get the floorstanders I think. Cheers


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## Warner2Bruce

Nice to see this thread became a sticky!


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## RayGuy

Perhaps I missed it, but some comments along the lines of:

a. Every speaker has it's own sonic signature, even ones that measure similarly. Perhaps the general characteristics of various tweeter designs (can of worms here). Horns vs fabric dome vs metal dome vs folded ribbons, vs etc ....

b. Something suggesting STRONGLY, that no one can make the decision for you, you have to let your own ears make the decision. Perhaps a primer on how to conduct listening tests at the dealer and how to listen (what to listen for) and not get swayed by the salesperson.

c. Lists of recommended components within certain price ranges, especially useful for subs, I would think, as the same ones get recommended over and over. Could be expanded to cover satellite speakers, bookshelf, floor standing, all within certain budget categories. Could expand into a nice draw for the site, eventually. "AVS Recommends"

d. a list of the cheaters ... a recent look into satellite speakers I did for one poster led me to finding out that a speaker's rated response is OFTEN lied about and the real measured response (-3dB) is often very different than the stated response curve (Def Tech is a major culprit, as is Klipsch with sensitivity ratings). I knew this was happening, but had no idea it went to such lengths. EXPOSE THE CHEATERS !!!

e. Positives and negatives of in-wall / in-ceiling speakers ... trade-offs, both sound-wise and $-wise.

Perhaps you could change the thread title to something more arresting, something along these lines: NEWBIES, READ THIS FAQ BEFORE POSTING. Lastly, kudos to you for doing this. It was a kernel of a thought in my head a month or so ago (prompted by the same repetition you are attempting to address) but I didn't act on it. Glory goes to those who ACT !


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## Steve119

I bought the a360 speakers to go with the A25 I'm going to use as a centre. I found a great thread on here about bass management that helped loads. Would something like that along with a rough guide to speaker crossovers be something you would prehaps broach the subject on?

I found the above subject very hard to understand tbh


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## pickering.tim

Hello old thread - thought I would repost something from another forum as maybe people have some ideas/critiques/suggestions to improve the overall sound I am getting from my mismatched setup....

I have a pair of Infinity Alpha 50's (90dB sensitivity) that I am using for my fronts. I was looking into upgrading these speakers as they are almost 15 years old but in order to get speakers in todays market that are comparable to what the infinity's were when I bought them, it appears I am looking at dropping close to 3K - but I am always open to suggestions if anyone has them. I have mismatched center (klipsch icon series) that I have been using for 3.1 and a couple of Polk bookshelf speakers (think they are Ti100s?) that I have not hooked up but could potentially use for surround speakers to make a 5.1 setup. I bought the center before I did enough research to understand the importance of matching them with the fronts. 

I have investigated and gotten advice from AVS members on where to find a matching center for my infinity's and I have had my eye on some Rti A9's in which case I would need to buy a new center to match up with. My sub is decent but certainly lacks room fill from what I can hear (Klipsch sw350) so I am definitely in the realm of "spend money to get a matching front 3 - but not quite willing to drop enough money to truly upgrade my sound" 

I did listen to some monitor audio silver's (6's and 10's) at a local hi fi store but the room setup and lack of sub made it hard to identify the quality of sound. I have heard a lot about Klipsch speakrs having great efficiency and being the best speakers for the price point but I am not a big fan of the horn tweeter for some reason. 

I have definitely thrown some money at my current setup by upgrading my denon avr791 to the marantz sr5009 (kind of wish i had waited for the 6009 oh well) and added a ud7007 as I am starting to venture into downloading/listening to higher quality music like HD Tracks and didnt want to play CDs Blu Ray from my ps3 anymore. side note - analog from the UD7007 to my sr5009 sounds better than HDMI thus far even when playing a DVD. nice?

I can run audyssey and tweak my setup over and over but I think I have gotten it fairly optimized for my unfortunate room limiting listening area. Audyssey sets my fronts to 40 and center to 80-90 most times but I have usually changed the fronts to 60 to send more low to the sub. Setting the crossover (especially for music) at 80 doesn't sound as good though I have noticed. I am aiming and will be doing some trial and error this weekend to try and getter a wider "sweet spot" but have yet to achieve a good acoustical setup speaker placement wise in my room given its constraints. 

The reason I thought a integrated amp or power amp would benefit my setup is for stereo playback through CD or AIFF/other? files via the UD7007 or from the receiver as my understanding (perhaps mistaken) was that a higher throughput (wrong term?) would provide a better sound at lower volumes. 

I do like loud music but I am more interested in getting the best sound I can from my system for music and occasionally movies/football. 

I am not sure there is even a question in here but if anyone has suggestions/tips for this newbie to improve my setup either with additional components or speaker/sub upgrade OR simply getting all the settings right for playback of various sources I would love to hear them. 

Thanks for your patience as I am trying to take in a lot and make sense of it all


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## cel4145

pickering.tim said:


> Hello old thread - thought I would repost something from another forum as maybe people have some ideas/critiques/suggestions to improve the overall sound I am getting from my mismatched setup....


I'm sure you could get a lot of help. But you will want to start your own thread. This thread is for discussing how to improve the Speaker FAQ, and it will be easier for people to help you if you have your own dedicated thread


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## artisticimaging

I’m not sure if this is the right thread please advise if it is not.


I would like to run two speakers off of the same line. They are rated 8 ohms 50w to 100w rms and the receiver is rated 100w rms. Would this work and if so how would I attach them, would it be two wires off of the same pole?


It is the center channel and I have an extra speaker.


Thanks


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## mbroadus

artisticimaging said:


> I’m not sure if this is the right thread please advise if it is not.
> 
> 
> I would like to run two speakers off of the same line. They are rated 8 ohms 50w to 100w rms and the receiver is rated 100w rms. Would this work and if so how would I attach them, would it be two wires off of the same pole?
> 
> 
> It is the center channel and I have an extra speaker.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Does your receiver not have a left, center, right channel?


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## artisticimaging

mbroadus said:


> Does your receiver not have a left, center, right channel?



Yes but I would like to have two speaker run off of the center channel out, which only has one set of connection


Thanks


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## azcoug1104

Just installed my 6.5" Monoprice right and lefts last night. Due to a weight bearing stud, I am not able to install my center channel where it needs to go. Now I need to decide what the next step is:


-I heard that other manufactures Centers may not sound right. Any suggestions what might sound okay with these Right and Left speakers? Would prefer something as low profile as possible but realize I can't have it all...


-Can I install the Center Channel vertically? Not sure I want to simply for the sake of looks, but wasn't sure if it had an effect on the SQ.


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## Transmaniacon

artisticimaging said:


> Yes but I would like to have two speaker run off of the center channel out, which only has one set of connection
> 
> 
> Thanks


I wouldn't recommend doing this, is there a reason you want to do this?


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## mbroadus

artisticimaging said:


> Yes but I would like to have two speaker run off of the center channel out, which only has one set of connection
> 
> 
> Thanks



Each speaker audio channel has a particular function, the center responsible for dialogue.


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## cel4145

azcoug1104 said:


> Just installed my 6.5" Monoprice right and lefts last night. Due to a weight bearing stud, I am not able to install my center channel where it needs to go. Now I need to decide what the next step is:
> 
> 
> -I heard that other manufactures Centers may not sound right. Any suggestions what might sound okay with these Right and Left speakers? Would prefer something as low profile as possible but realize I can't have it all...


Did you read item #2 in the first post of the FAQ? 




azcoug1104 said:


> Can I install the Center Channel vertically? Not sure I want to simply for the sake of looks, but wasn't sure if it had an effect on the SQ.


It may not disperse properly. You could buy another of your left and right.


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## artisticimaging

Transmaniacon said:


> I wouldn't recommend doing this, is there a reason you want to do this?



My reason, I have an extra speaker sitting around doing nothing. 


I guess you are right not a good idea, so I will scrap that idea.


Thanks


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## newc33

Hey cel great write up! I didn't even realize you started this thread till now lol. Anyway it was very interesting and helpful. Great info and thanks for posting it!!


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## cel4145

newc33 said:


> Hey cel great write up! I didn't even realize you started this thread till now lol. Anyway it was very interesting and helpful. Great info and thanks for posting it!!


Thanks 

Hopefully people needing help will read that first post.


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## cel4145

redkid said:


> I'm soon looking at buying in-wall and in-ceiling frameless 2-way speakers since I like the look but I'm not sure about what are good specs and prices for those. Also, is 6.5 inch or 8 inch better? I just purchased HDMI cables from cablecables.com and I saw that they also sell frameless Speakers. Plus, they have a 10% Discount on the whole site which makes it appealing. First time ordering from them so want to wait and see the quality of the cables before I decide to buy additional products from them. Here's the link to the speakers http://www.cablecables.com/speakers.html
> 
> Please let me know your thoughts. Thank


Best to start your own thread (see the first two posts in the Speaker FAQ)


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## donald.quix

artisticimaging said:


> Yes but I would like to have two speaker run off of the center channel out, which only has one set of connection
> 
> 
> Thanks


you can put both speakers into the same channel. You just double up the wires inside of the port. Although, you will lose some sound quality.


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## John Robinson

Am I going crazy or was the "Speakers" forum named "Speakers & Headphones" yesterday?


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## artisticimaging

donald.quix said:


> you can put both speakers into the same channel. You just double up the wires inside of the port. Although, you will lose some sound quality.



I was just thinking that. Would loose some power too. I might try it. Thanks.


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## cel4145

John Robinson said:


> Am I going crazy or was the "Speakers" forum named "Speakers & Headphones" yesterday?


Looks like they finally decided to start a separate headphone forum area: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/378-headphones/


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## Amir Eghbal

I have ordered an Edifier s330d speaker. It has a coaxial connection, optical spdif, rca connections, aux connection. Which connection gives the best sound quality? I believe it is the optical. My other question is, I have my pc, my xbox and a bluray player all connected to my tv via their own hdmi cables. The tv has an rca out and what looks like an optical spdif out. If I connect to the speaker via the spdif out of the tv, would that be the same as connecting directly from my pc to the subwoofer box? As far as quality is concernet, seeing how the computer is connected via hdmi, as it is converted within the tv, does it keep it's integrity normally or no? Also, the speakers are connected via speaker cables. Doesn't that lower the quality anyway? Is there any point of using something of better quality like an optical cable when it is downgraded as it goes to the speaker anyway? I appreciate your help.


----------



## MacMacMac

Transmaniacon said:


> Fantastic post, this needs to be a sticky!


Agreed, very informative.


----------



## jc46

*Banana plugs*

Is it ok to fold the bare copper wire to fit into the banana plug and set the screws? Will this affect high frequencies? The 8 gauge banana connector is too big and will not hold my 14 gauge cable as securely.


Thanks.


----------



## cel4145

Yes. You have to strip the end of the copper wire to use the banana clips.


----------



## esmugala

Much appreciated Sticky


----------



## smuggymba

The builder ran the cables without labeling them. The speakers are hung up on the wall and connected. Can I use a AAA battery at the other end to test out which one is which using the pop sound method described in the video below. I don't want to damage the speakers 

Can we do this via a multi-meter also? Can I set it to ohms setting and hook up one end of wires to the multi-meter (at the other end, speaker is already installed).

Also, I have a yamaha 3040 and I'm reading the manual right now to see how I can use the AVR to determine which wire is for which speaker.


----------



## cel4145

Best to start a thread of your own (see the first post in this thread).


----------



## mandy111

Great and Helpful


----------



## Speed Daemon

Here's a question that should be a no-brainer:

I just got a stereo pair of speakers that are asymmetrical. The Mid and tweeter are off-axis from the woofer. So there's a left one and a right one. Thing is, neither are labeled, and the manual doesn't say a word.

So...any ideas? Should I put the top drivers inboard or outboard?

If I use the "time align" philosophy, the mid/high drivers should be further from my ears, outboard. Other orthodoxy would have me put the mid/high inboard to minimize reflection from the substantial front baffle. They're ATC SCM150ASL studio models, which apparently are slightly different from the home models, but I don't recall the specifics. I just wanted mine in black, and the studio was the black one.

Since they're used in recording studios, you'd think that looking at photos of the various studios would sort it out. But it seems that the various studios disagree on which arrangement is best!


----------



## cel4145

Speed Daemon said:


> Here's a question that should be a no-brainer:
> 
> I just got a stereo pair of speakers that are asymmetrical. The Mid and tweeter are off-axis from the woofer. So there's a left one and a right one. Thing is, neither are labeled, and the manual doesn't say a word.
> 
> So...any ideas? Should I put the top drivers inboard or outboard?
> 
> If I use the "time align" philosophy, the mid/high drivers should be further from my ears, outboard. Other orthodoxy would have me put the mid/high inboard to minimize reflection from the substantial front baffle. They're ATC SCM150ASL studio models, which apparently are slightly different from the home models, but I don't recall the specifics. I just wanted mine in black, and the studio was the black one.
> 
> Since they're used in recording studios, you'd think that looking at photos of the various studios would sort it out. But it seems that the various studios disagree on which arrangement is best!


I would suggest starting a thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/


----------



## Speed Daemon

cel4145 said:


> I would suggest starting a thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/


Will do, thanks!


----------



## Pro-People

For me, I want to have a clean wires at the back of my receiver, so I will chose bose acoustimass 10, it has all the 5.1 connection in 1 wire.


----------



## mbroadus

Pro-People said:


> For me, I want to have a clean wires at the back of my receiver, so I will chose bose acoustimass 10, it has all the 5.1 connection in 1 wire.


----------



## cel4145

Pro-People said:


> For me, I want to have a clean wires at the back of my receiver, so I will chose bose acoustimass 10, it has all the 5.1 connection in 1 wire.


Good for you. 

But this thread is not for discussing/recommending HTIB packages, Bose or otherwise, as should be obvious by reading the first two posts. Here is a good place to go if you want to talk about your Bose Acoustimass: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/109-home-theater-box/


----------



## lyfbyts

*New Setup and recommendations/changes*

Hi Guys and Gals,

I am new to the forum and am building a home and want some advice on best options to choose/recommendations so I will use the format provided to kick it off.

1) Your budget. - 25K ish
2) Your listening interests: movies/gaming/music--and whether or not any of those are your primary concern. - Movies-TV-Music
3) Your existing audio equipment (make/models) if any. Include comments about what you hope to improve upon. - None this is a new build
4) The size of your room. Please also mention if there are adjacent open areas and how big they are (important for subwoofer choice). 9ft high ceiling 14.5 width 23.5
5) Any placement restrictions. - new construction so I am open again
6) Any aesthetic or size concerns. - no
7) Any equipment you are already considering (or would not consider). - list below is what I am considering:
Projector JVC DLA-X900RKT
ATMOS ceiling speakers 4xKlipsch CDT-5650-C II
Surround either the pre canned RP280 7.2 system + 2 Rear RP-160 for 9.2 or 2x R115SW, LF and RF RP-280, Center RP-450C, surrounds 6xRP-160M
Power Conditioner - Panamax M5400-PM
Yamaha pre amp CX-A5000 paired with MX-A5000 Amp
screen would be 120 inch perforated +1 brightness

8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.) just good all around sound for HT and music

So the million dollar question whats your take on the hardware, what would you change if anything. Any other suggestion would be fantastic. If I am missing any pertinent details for the support please let me know as I am new to all of this.

Thank you for the support!

Adrian Douglas


----------



## lyfbyts

lyfbyts said:


> Hi Guys and Gals,
> 
> I am new to the forum and am building a home and want some advice on best options to choose/recommendations so I will use the format provided to kick it off.
> 
> 1) Your budget. - 25K ish
> 2) Your listening interests: movies/gaming/music--and whether or not any of those are your primary concern. - Movies-TV-Music
> 3) Your existing audio equipment (make/models) if any. Include comments about what you hope to improve upon. - None this is a new build
> 4) The size of your room. Please also mention if there are adjacent open areas and how big they are (important for subwoofer choice). 9ft high ceiling 14.5 width 23.5
> 5) Any placement restrictions. - new construction so I am open again
> 6) Any aesthetic or size concerns. - no
> 7) Any equipment you are already considering (or would not consider). - list below is what I am considering:
> Projector JVC DLA-X900RKT
> ATMOS ceiling speakers 4xKlipsch CDT-5650-C II
> Surround either the pre canned RP280 7.2 system + 2 Rear RP-160 for 9.2 or 2x R115SW, LF and RF RP-280, Center RP-450C, surrounds 6xRP-160M
> Power Conditioner - Panamax M5400-PM
> Yamaha pre amp CX-A5000 paired with MX-A5000 Amp
> screen would be 120 inch perforated +1 brightness
> 
> 8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.) just good all around sound for HT and music
> 
> So the million dollar question whats your take on the hardware, what would you change if anything. Any other suggestion would be fantastic. If I am missing any pertinent details for the support please let me know as I am new to all of this.
> 
> Thank you for the support!
> 
> Adrian Douglas


Small update as the Yamaha CX-A5000 is not capable on ATMOS I would do the CX-A5100 instead, the other question is Yamaha states the 5100 will do 7.1.4 given the amp is 11.2 and I amp out to a MX-A5000 can I do 7.2.4?

This would reduce my surrounds from 6 to 4 QTY as well.


----------



## cel4145

lyfbyts said:


> Hi Guys and Gals,
> 
> I am new to the forum and am building a home and want some advice on best options to choose/recommendations so I will use the format provided to kick it off.
> 
> 1) Your budget. - 25K ish
> 2) Your listening interests: movies/gaming/music--and whether or not any of those are your primary concern. - Movies-TV-Music
> 3) Your existing audio equipment (make/models) if any. Include comments about what you hope to improve upon. - None this is a new build
> 4) The size of your room. Please also mention if there are adjacent open areas and how big they are (important for subwoofer choice). 9ft high ceiling 14.5 width 23.5
> 5) Any placement restrictions. - new construction so I am open again
> 6) Any aesthetic or size concerns. - no
> 7) Any equipment you are already considering (or would not consider). - list below is what I am considering:
> Projector JVC DLA-X900RKT
> ATMOS ceiling speakers 4xKlipsch CDT-5650-C II
> Surround either the pre canned RP280 7.2 system + 2 Rear RP-160 for 9.2 or 2x R115SW, LF and RF RP-280, Center RP-450C, surrounds 6xRP-160M
> Power Conditioner - Panamax M5400-PM
> Yamaha pre amp CX-A5000 paired with MX-A5000 Amp
> screen would be 120 inch perforated +1 brightness
> 
> 8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.) just good all around sound for HT and music
> 
> So the million dollar question whats your take on the hardware, what would you change if anything. Any other suggestion would be fantastic. If I am missing any pertinent details for the support please let me know as I am new to all of this.
> 
> Thank you for the support!
> 
> Adrian Douglas





lyfbyts said:


> Small update as the Yamaha CX-A5000 is not capable on ATMOS I would do the CX-A5100 instead, the other question is Yamaha states the 5100 will do 7.1.4 given the amp is 11.2 and I amp out to a MX-A5000 can I do 7.2.4?
> 
> This would reduce my surrounds from 6 to 4 QTY as well.


See the first two paragraphs in the first post of this thread. You'll want to start your own thread with that information


----------



## Cndctrdj

I have what I think is a good question. 
I have a decent 5.1 setup. I'm looking to upgrade my reciever. The new reciever has the ability to drive up to 11 chanels. So when looking to get my next speaker, in what order do I get them? Is there an order of importance for all speaker purchases? Assuming you follow the guide already established. 

Initially I got my front r/l speakers. Then my center, surrounds. Next I'm looking at atmos up firing speakers (I live in an apartment) but was thinking or bookshelf front height speakers. Wasn't sure what ones I should be getting first. Or should i find something else. 

Could someone make a list of the step by step speaker purchasing list?


----------



## chrisxs1

Thanks for keeping this up.


----------



## darthray

cel4145 said:


> This speaker FAQ is intended to answer some of the basic questions about speakers and putting together a home audio setup.
> 
> *See post #2 for rules before posting in this thread*. This is NOT a recommendation thread. If you need help, you will want to start your own thread in the AVS Speaker forum, providing the information in item #1 below.
> 
> *1) I need help with picking out an HT or stereo setup. What kind of information should I provide? *
> 
> When creating a new thread in the Speaker forum for help with recommendations for an audio setup, be sure to include
> 
> 1) Your budget.
> 2) Your listening interests: movies/gaming/music--and whether or not any of those are your primary concern.
> 3) Your existing audio equipment (make/models) if any. Include comments about what you hope to improve upon.
> 4) The size of your room. Please also mention if there are adjacent open areas and how big they are (important for subwoofer choice).
> 5) Any placement restrictions.
> 6) Any aesthetic or size concerns.
> 7) Any equipment you are already considering (or would not consider).
> 8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.)
> 
> If you are seeking help with configuring or troubleshooting an existing setup, be sure to give the make/model for your entire setup and try to describe the problem with good detail.
> 
> Once you have given good, detailed information for what you need help with, provide a title for your post that helps people to understand what you are looking for.
> 
> *2) I have speaker make/model X. What center channel goes with my speakers? *
> 
> For best SQ, it is important for your front soundstage to timbre match, which gives you a smooth transition as sound pans from left to right (and vice versa) and may help with dialogue clarity.
> 
> Because of this, the optimum choice is the exact same speaker as your front left and right. The center channel designed by manufacturers is the next best option, but it is a slight compromise over using the exact same speaker. The reason that many people go with manufacturer designed center channels is that they cannot accommodate a vertically placed speaker as a center channel, and many speakers cannot be turned on their side (they are not designed to disperse sound properly that way).
> 
> It is possible that other speakers in the same speaker model line will work well, too, because the tweeter is often the same/similar and the tonal signature of the drivers are as well.
> 
> Using a mismatched center channel from a different manufacturer--or a different speaker model line by the same manufacturer--may work worse than no center at all, and it is next to impossible to predict what speaker from another manufacturer would work well.
> 
> To find out if other center channels from the same manufacturer might work well with your front left and right, look for an owners thread on AVS for that manufacturer and ask for recommendations.
> 
> *3) How do I place my speakers in my room?*
> 
> Placement can have a significant impact on both speaker and subwoofer performance. The following links are a good place to start for learning more:
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-the...-setup-tips-for-upgraded-home-theater-systems
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/home-theater-speaker-layout-an-essential-guide
> http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-setup/easy-subwoofer-placement
> 
> *4) Why are people telling me to go with larger bookshelves instead of satellite speakers? *
> 
> Small satellites have tiny drivers (e.g. 3”) that lack the dynamics for filling a large room with sound in comparison to larger driver bookshelves (e.g. 5.5” or 6”). The tweeters may also be smaller as well or more limited in overall sound output, also limiting dynamics.
> 
> Small satellites also need a higher crossover with a sub. Consequently the bass may become more localizable--you can tell the bass is coming from the sub. And you may need a more resolving subwoofer since the sub has to handle more midbass; the lower quality of a budget entry level sub that sounds OK with a lower crossover when used with bookshelves or towers may call attention to its flaws more with small satellites.
> 
> *5) What is the advantage of towers/floorstanding speakers over bookshelf/monitor size?*
> 
> Towers can typically provide deeper bass extension over bookshelves. However, if you are buying a good subwoofer (and you should), this advantage is often negated because you can crossover your speakers at around 80hz.
> 
> Towers will typically offer better dynamics and overall power handling than bookshelves in the same speaker manufacturer model line. However, for the difference in price, you may be able to find a better quality speaker from another speaker model line which offers similar benefits to the tower in terms of dynamics and power handling.
> 
> *6) I have speaker make/model X. What surround speakers should I get? *
> 
> Since the surround channels are usually only used for effects sounds and ambient noise, it is generally thought to be less important that they have tonal match to the front stage speakers. To put it another way, it is important to keep all the front stage speakers matching for a good sound, but one can have somewhat different surround speakers without nearly as much penalty. However, this is not a completely universally accepted idea, and there is some debate on the importance of matching surrounds. With the expansion from five to seven channel surround sound in lossless codecs and the recent announcement of Dolby Atmos for home systems, the surround channels do seem to be gaining greater importance, so it may be more beneficial to use matching speakers in future surround sound setups, especially if one is using direct-radiating (monopole) speakers for surround speakers.
> 
> If one intends to eventually upgrade to Dolby Atmos, then direct radiating is the appropriate choice since it is required for Dolby Atmos implementation. Otherwise, to learn more about whether bipole, dipole, or direct radiating (monopole) speakers are best for your needs, consult this lengthy discussion on AVS and read A Guide to Bipolar, Dipolar, & Direct-Radiating Monopole Surround Speakers Part I & Part II. If all that reading seems overwhelming, then going with a direct radiating speaker certainly works well as a default choice.
> 
> *7) Will biwiring my speakers to my AVR improve the sound quality? *
> 
> Many people confuse biamping with biwiring. Biamping can certainly improve sound quality, but it requires active crossovers which passive speakers typically are not setup to use.
> 
> Biwiring offers no sound quality advantage. Speaker manufacturers provide biwire terminals on passive speakers and AVR manufacturers offer biwiring capability because some audiophiles believe the myth that it does.
> 
> *8) What kind of speaker wire and what gauge speaker wire do I need? *
> 
> The gauge speaker wire you need is based upon the impedance of your speakers and the length of the wire runs. Consult the table on this page (scroll down). You could certainly go with a lower # gauge (thicker copper wire) than what the table suggests.
> 
> Any oxygen free 100% copper speaker wire will work well. You do not need to buy expensive speaker cables. Banana plugs can be convenient for hooking up your speakers if they work with your speaker terminals and receiver, but they are not necessary for good sound quality.
> 
> Search the forum, and you’ll find recommended speaker wire and banana plugs. Generally there is no need to create a new thread just to find that out.
> 
> *9) Should I buy expensive cables? *
> 
> No. Scientific evidence does not support the benefit of expensive cables. For example, there are $10 audio interconnects that should perform as well as $100 ones.
> 
> Search the forum, and you’ll find recommended cables. Generally there is no need to create a new thread just to find that out.
> 
> *10) How do I choose a subwoofer to match my speakers?*
> 
> Subwoofer choice is at first dependent on the volume area of your room--including any open areas--and your listening volume. Too little sub and your sub will struggle (or be unable) to keep up with your speakers, and you might overdrive it. As subwoofers get closer to their maximum volume, they also tend to have more distortion. Now if you are using it nearfield for a computer setup (approximately 3 ft away), then subwoofer performance based on the room size is not a concern.
> 
> You need to consider the low end frequency extension capability of the sub. For music, a good general guide is that you want extension down to 30hz. However, movies have deeper bass extension where a lot of special effects content is. Many AVS members feel that solid low 20hz (or lower) extension is a big plus for a good subwoofer for HT usage
> 
> A sub is a big driver, in a big, heavy enclosure (box), and it has an amp. It is expensive to ship. So most AVS members feel there are significant price/performance benefits on spending more on a sub than most people new to home audio realize: quality and performance does improve quite a bit with a higher budget. When choosing a subwoofer, there are also Internet direct vendors that offer much better price/performance values than traditional speaker company subs that you can buy at a store.
> 
> There are still other considerations regarding subwoofer choice. Subwoofer recommendations and questions are best addressed in the AVS subwoofer forum, and you can learn about the different Internet direct vendors, as well as current online deals for entry levels subs. Be sure to read this post instructing you on what information to provide before seeking advice: http://www.avsforum.com/t/989316/want-advice-on-what-sub-to-purchase-please-read-this-before-posting
> 
> *My question has not been answered here. What do I do?*
> 
> If your question pertains to some particular aspect of how to select audio equipment or what to buy, try googling what you are looking for with "AVS" as a keyword. That's the easiest way to find things on the website.
> 
> Otherwise, start your own thread





chrisxs1 said:


> Thanks for keeping this up.


 
Big +1


Many basic questions are answer.
So like you, I like to pass along my Thanks to cel4145


Ray


----------



## cel4145

Thanks, guys. There hasn't been much to keep up with that post. A couple of AVSrs help me some with the content. I think we covered all the main bases for the questions that would get asked every single week.


----------



## Monyocky

*Bose Reflective Speakers*

I see many acronyms in the posts. What is MLP? My questions are:

I have a large long room to set up my front, rear, and center Bose reflective speakers. What should the maximum distance be from the front speakers to the rear speakers? My front speakers are 301s and the back speakers are 201s. This is the set that the Bose store recommended for me based on a much smaller room. I don't want to have to buy new speakers.

Thanks


----------



## Cndctrdj

For multiple sub setup, do you have to match subs like you match speakers? Wondering if I could have one larger sub for lower frequencies and one smaller sub for punchy fast paced music. We used to do that in car audio stuff. Wondering if it would be worth it in a home theater setup


----------



## darthray

Monyocky said:


> I see many acronyms in the posts. What is MLP? My questions are:
> 
> I have a large long room to set up my front, rear, and center Bose reflective speakers. What should the maximum distance be from the front speakers to the rear speakers? My front speakers are 301s and the back speakers are 201s. This is the set that the Bose store recommended for me based on a much smaller room. I don't want to have to buy new speakers.
> 
> Thanks



MLP stand for Main Listening Position


Ray


----------



## cel4145

Cndctrdj said:


> For multiple sub setup, do you have to match subs like you match speakers? Wondering if I could have one larger sub for lower frequencies and one smaller sub for punchy fast paced music. We used to do that in car audio stuff. Wondering if it would be worth it in a home theater setup


I don't think that's an easy question to answer. Partially because it's complicated, and partially because you it seems you might be starting with wrong assumptions, such as the idea that smaller subs would necessarily be punchier. Best to start a discussion in the AVS subwoofer forum about it. Tell them your current setup, size of your room, your budget, etc.:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/


----------



## Skywalk669

I recently purchased the Onkyo TX-SR444 7.1 channel receiver. I also have a Philips HTS6500 DVD Home Theater system that this receiver is now replacing. The speakers and subwoofer both still work well, so I would like to connect them to the receiver. I was able to cut off the connector from the subwoofer and hook it up to the Onkyo receiver. However, the speakers have a 6 prong connection. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to salvage the speakers? Can I cut off the connection and interwine some of the wires? Or is there an easy conversion connector that I can purchase to convert it? The receiver has the typical positive-negative speaker wire connection.

I tried posting the links, but this is my first post. However, if you just google philips hts6500 dvd home theater system and then click on the p4c philip com link (For me, it was the first one listed below the ads). Then scroll down and click onto Setup the speakers and then scroll down a little bit, you will be able to see the 6 prong setup that the Philips speakers have.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cel4145

Skywalk669 said:


> I recently purchased the Onkyo TX-SR444 7.1 channel receiver. I also have a Philips HTS6500 DVD Home Theater system that this receiver is now replacing. The speakers and subwoofer both still work well, so I would like to connect them to the receiver. I was able to cut off the connector from the subwoofer and hook it up to the Onkyo receiver. However, the speakers have a 6 prong connection. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to salvage the speakers? Can I cut off the connection and interwine some of the wires? Or is there an easy conversion connector that I can purchase to convert it? The receiver has the typical positive-negative speaker wire connection.
> 
> I tried posting the links, but this is my first post. However, if you just google philips hts6500 dvd home theater system and then click on the p4c philip com link (For me, it was the first one listed below the ads). Then scroll down and click onto Setup the speakers and then scroll down a little bit, you will be able to see the 6 prong setup that the Philips speakers have.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Not sure why your Philips has a six prong connection going to the left/right speakers. Best to start a thread in the speaker forum area to seek help as most people don't follow this thread.


----------



## Skywalk669

cel4145 said:


> Not sure why your Philips has a six prong connection going to the left/right speakers. Best to start a thread in the speaker forum area to seek help as most people don't follow this thread.


Thanks Cel4145. I tried to start a new thread yesterday, but it wasn't allowing me. Perhaps because I just created my account yesterday. Today, it let me start a new thread.


----------



## roncomposer

Nice information for people who just onto the speaker world


----------



## jperk10

I am looking to install in wall speakers in my basement. its a new house that came 5.1 pre-wired. My main question is the wall where the speakers would be installed has an unfinished storage room on the other side therefore there is only one side of drywall so I am wondering if they will sound bad due to lack of enclosure. Any info on this would help, thanks.


----------



## arcticbowman

How important is it to keep the speaker wires the same length throughout the system? I plan to keep my 12 gauge wire the same length for my front left, center and right regardless, but I thought this could be helpful information and I didn't see it mentioned here.

I am running a 7.2.4 system, so I plan to run the same length of wire for each of the four Atmos speakers, then run the same length for the two surrounds and the same lengths for the two rear speakers. I will end up with quite a bit of wire spooled up in the walls, but I'm okay with that if it is worth it.


----------



## Williams2

arcticbowman said:


> How important is it to keep the speaker wires the same length throughout the system? I plan to keep my 12 gauge wire the same length for my front left, center and right regardless, but I thought this could be helpful information and I didn't see it mentioned here.
> 
> I am running a 7.2.4 system, so I plan to run the same length of wire for each of the four Atmos speakers, then run the same length for the two surrounds and the same lengths for the two rear speakers. I will end up with quite a bit of wire spooled up in the walls, but I'm okay with that if it is worth it.


I've always been crazy like that and would keep the wires the same length for all of the speakers, just for peace of mind knowing there won't be any delay effects. It probably isn't critical, but it would drive me nuts to have some 6' wires and some 25' wires.


----------



## littlefoott69

It used to be important for timing but now room correction and avr settings do the job

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## Trvlngnrs

My guess is it isn't important. I googled "speed of electricity": 

"Therefore, the speed of electricity in a 12-gauge copper wire is 299,792,458 meters per second x 0.951 or 285,102,627 meters per second. This is about 280,000,000 meters per second which is not very much different from the speed of electromagnetic waves (light) in vacuum."

I don't think a few yards difference in speaker wire length will matter as much as you turning your head, since sound travels much slower then electricity.


----------



## Salman Butt

hello all 
salman from lahore pakistan sir i want to ask a anoying question i was previously having a 5.1 pioneer speaker system attached to my denon avr-1800 the problem is this the front i was having was saj-510 center was also pioneer surround was also pioneer but from a home theater htib system i assume the problem with this setup was that the front was always prominent in sense of sound they dominate the center and surround speakers now i have logitech cubes lying with me around since long is it wise to use the 5 speakers for watching movies is this is a wise desicion or stick to the pioneer is wise i dont have a bluray player i watch movies on my cpu ,p.s sorry for my grammar and spellings


----------



## Salman Butt

i was talking about these cubes i only have cubes


----------



## ashleyjohn

You can also place the speaker in a media stand. It will add a more stylish and functional look to your room.


----------



## msign ups

great info thank you!


----------



## Tatts4Life

About question 3) as to where to place my speakers. I have a room that was going to have a perfect set up until I realized our sectional couch is going to be too long bringing the main listening position back about an extra foot and a half. Does having the side speakers forward of 90 degrees by say 3 inches going to affect listening? Unfortunately there is a light switch in the way and I will have to place the speaker forward a few inches since running audio and electrical in parallel is a bad idea so I can't place the speaker above the light switch.


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## j-trek

Hi, all. I have a set of Crystal Acoustics TX-T3 SE tower speakers and I'm in the market for a receiver that I can connect with these. One question is regarding the connection from the speaker to the receiver. I believe these speakers have binding posts (see attached pic). Do I need to purchase a receiver that also has binding posts or will spring clamps also work? I'm an audiophile newbie, so I apologize if I'm not clear in my question or haven't provided enough info. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## wadennis

*Surround speaker height*

I am looking for information on height placement of surround side & rear speakers? I would have though ear level or slightly higher but am reading 2 or 3 feet higher which seems very high to me. Any opinions? Also where do you find a speaker stand sturdy enough to hold speakers that are about 9 inch x 14 inch?
Thanks


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## Andrew67

j-trek said:


> Hi, all. I have a set of Crystal Acoustics TX-T3 SE tower speakers and I'm in the market for a receiver that I can connect with these. One question is regarding the connection from the speaker to the receiver. I believe these speakers have binding posts (see attached pic). Do I need to purchase a receiver that also has binding posts or will spring clamps also work? I'm an audiophile newbie, so I apologize if I'm not clear in my question or haven't provided enough info. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


The type of connections on the speakers and the receiver don't matter. You simply need an electrical connection (speaker wire) between the two.


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## Frank Quitely

*Techno impaired newbie*

First, my apologies if this thread is in the wrong forum. Please move, if so. Second, I am a techno impaired Boomer and it's possible my question is laughable. Apologies again.

When setting up my Yamaha receive and the YPAO, it always is for 5.1. I have a 7.1 speaker set up. In surround sound, how and when are those rear two speakers used. Do they come on "automatically" with a DVD playing? Am I missing something? When I have "7-channel stereo" I do get sound from those rear speakers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## j-trek

Andrew67 said:


> The type of connections on the speakers and the receiver don't matter. You simply need an electrical connection (speaker wire) between the two.


In connection with my previous question regarding the Crystal Acoustics tower speakers, can anyone recommend a good receiver that would work well with these? I've been reading that some receivers may not have the wattage to handle these speakers. The speakers can handle up to 400 RMS watts (Input Power). Should I be looking at a receiver that has an output of at least 200? Or does it really matter? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thx.


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## daocommand

Hello! 
If some people would shower me in all their opinions and experience I would be very grateful. This is the first Surround sound that I will be purchasing and setting up however, I already know how to as a beginner. I do not know about placement or bi-wiring etc.. I am stuck on #1: 

1) I need help with picking out an HT or stereo setup. What kind of information should I provide? 

When creating a new thread in the Speaker forum for help with recommendations for an audio setup, be sure to include

1) I would love to stay under 5,000 USD. I would even be happy spending around 1,000 USD, but that may not be possible for me. 

2) Primarily I will be gaming and watching movies. Listening to music is 3rd for our household. 

3) We have a 5.1 Samsung H.T.I.B. that costs around 1,300 USD but is from 2013, and it has these wireless rear speakers that ruins any 5g wireless you have. HT-H7730WM

4) The size of your room.: *My living room is in the middle of our house and is 10 feet by 15 feet with a 8-9 foot ceiling. *

5) Any placement restrictions: *We have a door attached in one corner outside the 15 by 10 seating area. There is like a mini foyer entering the room. There is a sliding glass door on the other end on the 10 foot long wall with an addition room on the other side. That room is 12 feet by 16 feet with a 10 foot ceiling. *

6) Any aesthetic or size concerns.: *None, we hope to stay here for a few years then purchase a home with a MUCH larger living room.* 

7) Any equipment you are already considering: *I am in love with Denon products but only aesthetically, I work 16 hours almost everyday for a few more months. I have not even heard the equipment in store yet. * (or would not consider): *I do not like the look of Marantz, the readout is so small I think. I really like Klipsch and Polk Audio, but only in looks and reputation.*

8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.): *Maybe anything goes, I cannot identify what most of the terms mean like, "Denon has sharp highs."*

Thank you so much for any input available. I do not mind upgrading later when we move if I can get a better system just for our room, I am willing to not purchase the Denon AVR-X6400H and Klipsch RP-280FA, Atmos, 7.1 that I have my eyes set on. Basically If I can get Polk Audio in signature series and it still sounds okay, I would get Klipsch later. Shhh, the Wife wont see this...


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## cel4145

daocommand said:


> Hello!
> If some people would shower me in all their opinions and experience I would be very grateful. This is the first Surround sound that I will be purchasing and setting up however, I already know how to as a beginner. I do not know about placement or bi-wiring etc.. I am stuck on #1:
> 
> 1) I need help with picking out an HT or stereo setup. What kind of information should I provide?
> 
> When creating a new thread in the Speaker forum for help with recommendations for an audio setup, be sure to include
> 
> 1) I would love to stay under 5,000 USD. I would even be happy spending around 1,000 USD, but that may not be possible for me.
> 
> 2) Primarily I will be gaming and watching movies. Listening to music is 3rd for our household.
> 
> 3) We have a 5.1 Samsung H.T.I.B. that costs around 1,300 USD but is from 2013, and it has these wireless rear speakers that ruins any 5g wireless you have. HT-H7730WM
> 
> 4) The size of your room.: *My living room is in the middle of our house and is 10 feet by 15 feet with a 8-9 foot ceiling. *
> 
> 5) Any placement restrictions: *We have a door attached in one corner outside the 15 by 10 seating area. There is like a mini foyer entering the room. There is a sliding glass door on the other end on the 10 foot long wall with an addition room on the other side. That room is 12 feet by 16 feet with a 10 foot ceiling. *
> 
> 6) Any aesthetic or size concerns.: *None, we hope to stay here for a few years then purchase a home with a MUCH larger living room.*
> 
> 7) Any equipment you are already considering: *I am in love with Denon products but only aesthetically, I work 16 hours almost everyday for a few more months. I have not even heard the equipment in store yet. * (or would not consider): *I do not like the look of Marantz, the readout is so small I think. I really like Klipsch and Polk Audio, but only in looks and reputation.*
> 
> 8) Any particular audio sonic signatures you know you prefer (e.g., you are a basshead, you have a preference for bright treble, etc.): *Maybe anything goes, I cannot identify what most of the terms mean like, "Denon has sharp highs."*
> 
> Thank you so much for any input available. I do not mind upgrading later when we move if I can get a better system just for our room, I am willing to not purchase the Denon AVR-X6400H and Klipsch RP-280FA, Atmos, 7.1 that I have my eyes set on. Basically If I can get Polk Audio in signature series and it still sounds okay, I would get Klipsch later. Shhh, the Wife wont see this...


So you get lots of help, best to start a brand new thread of your own in the speakers forum: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=89.


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## cowboy85

Wasn't sure where to ask this, and didn't think it needed it's own thread.

I'm moving into an older house. We're working on getting rid of all of the spiders and other creepy crawlies. Should I be concerned about something making a home inside my speaker through the port? Especially in my sub since it sits on the ground. I'm thinking maybe put some double sided tape on the inside of the port so nothing can crawl up in there.


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## darthray

cowboy85 said:


> Wasn't sure where to ask this, and didn't think it needed it's own thread.
> 
> I'm moving into an older house. We're working on getting rid of all of the spiders and other creepy crawlies. Should I be concerned about something making a home inside my speaker through the port? Especially in my sub since it sits on the ground. I'm thinking maybe put some double sided tape on the inside of the port so nothing can crawl up in there.



A concern maybe, just for old nest, a spider web should not affect the sound. 


That said, I do not think those crawlies, would like to Live in there for long.
Maybe not for the sound volume, but the air movement, not a pleasant place to Live.


Just open the Sub, vacuum if needed, and forget about-it.


Ray


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## cowboy85

darthray said:


> A concern maybe, just for old nest, a spider web should not affect the sound.
> 
> 
> That said, I do not think those crawlies, would like to Live in there for long.
> Maybe not for the sound volume, but the air movement, not a pleasant place to Live.
> 
> 
> Just open the Sub, vacuum if needed, and forget about-it.
> 
> 
> Ray


Ah, good point! I had already put double sided tape on the inside of the ports. My actual concern should probably be the receiver. I'm thinking I'll just put tape on the feet so they can't crawl up in there. I'm assuming bugs are attracted to warmer areas though, maybe not.


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## darthray

cowboy85 said:


> Ah, good point! I had already put double sided tape on the inside of the ports. My actual concern should probably be the receiver. I'm thinking I'll just put tape on the feet so they can't crawl up in there. I'm assuming bugs are attracted to warmer areas though, maybe not.


 
I live way up North, where the temperature on average go around -20 to -30, and sometime extreme as -40 to -50 Celsius, in the winter. Summer it can go up to 30 Celsius.
My house is suppose to Air Tight, but somehow, some find a way to get in, but none last long due to my Cats thinking "here's a new Toy, lets bat it around"


Honestly, the little vent holes on the top of your AVR are too small them for them to crawl-in, so no worry on that one.
If You think your bug infection is that big, I would seriously look into hire a fumigator, get your Love ones and pets out, for the few hours it will take for the place to be safe again. this way all the establish colony are gone, and you only have to deal with to few that find a way in.


Ray


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## cuibap

Don't know if this is the right place to post my question but since the title say speaker setup so I give it a try:

I have the Klipsch sub and it has gain, phase and the other one is about Hz with the last option is LFE. There are 2 cable inputs: one is LFE and the other one is something else (don't remember exactly but can check when I'm off of work tonight).

I have the Yamaha a-1060 and it has some option relating to Hz so don't know which one to select. Currently it is on 80Hz for all speakers and the sub.

What is the gain?
What is the phase (0 or 180)?
What is the Hz and LFE?

Would you please direct or tell me how to set it up correctly?

Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


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## FriscoBrah

I have a newb question:

My home came with Energy Encore2 satellite speakers and about a year ago I upgraded the center channel with an Energy Carn. CC-10 that has 2 5.5" woofers and 1" sub. My Encores have died and I'm now looking to replace them with in wall speakers.

My question is does it matter what size woofer the surround speakers have versus the center channel? The ones I'm looking at have 6.5" woofer. Will this unbalance the sound or anything?


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## Loneshark786




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## Immigrationuk

good


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## jdhelaman

I'm thinking about placing a center channel above my screen as well as one below the screen. I live in a remote town of North Carolina, and you ate considered an audiophile if you own a transistor radio, so there's no help locally.


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## Mainlander NZ

Hi.
I have been studying this forum and I am wanting to upgrade my front speakers.
The current Wharfedales have a 6 1/2 woofer and most of the floor-standing speakers I've been looking at have two 5 1/4 woofers.


What is the difference to the listener? How does this effect the sound?


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## rpsreis

*Speakers for Marantz PM6006 + turntable Pro-ject*

Hi guys. I'm looking for some advice to buy speakers for my turntable. Here's what i have:

- Amp Marantz PM6006
- Turntable Pro-Ject Debut Carbon

- Music style: rock, jazz, blues, classic,..
- Room size: aprox. 6m x 5m (19.7' x 16.4')
- Budget: around 600 $


I'm looking for desk speakers because i don't have space for towers..
Can you give me your thoughts and sugestions?

Thank you!


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## treal512

Hello! Forum noobie here. I have a pretty basic question. I currently have a 2.1 HTS setup: Chane A1.4 and an Outlaw LFM-1 EX. Would you guys recommend sticking with this or going 3.1? I have my eyes set on a Chane A2.4 for a center channel, but I'm not sure if that will improve my sound. My current limitations include being in a small apartment where I can't turn up the volume very loud. In my previous house I had a 2.2 setup that was pretty great- had always planned on going 3.2, but with the recent move I am not so sure now. Thanks!


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## pase22

treal512 said:


> Hello! Forum noobie here. I have a pretty basic question. I currently have a 2.1 HTS setup: Chane A1.4 and an Outlaw LFM-1 EX. Would you guys recommend sticking with this or going 3.1? I have my eyes set on a Chane A2.4 for a center channel, but I'm not sure if that will improve my sound. My current limitations include being in a small apartment where I can't turn up the volume very loud. In my previous house I had a 2.2 setup that was pretty great- had always planned on going 3.2, but with the recent move I am not so sure now. Thanks!


You should sart a new thread in the general speakers forum. More people will see your thread and offer advice/recommendations.


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## zeonstar

Just wanted to confirm that 16 AWG should be fine for rear atmos speakers? The run is definitely under 50 feet. I haven't measured it exactly but it's probably not more than 30. I'm going to be running it through walls and under carpet so I want to get what I need, but also not have it be thicker than I need.


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## 1984_C10

[solved, please ignore this post]


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## KatanPatel

artisticimaging said:


> Yes but I would like to have two speaker run off of the center channel out, which only has one set of connection
> 
> 
> Thanks


very helpful


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## bear123

zeonstar said:


> Just wanted to confirm that 16 AWG should be fine for rear atmos speakers? The run is definitely under 50 feet. I haven't measured it exactly but it's probably not more than 30. I'm going to be running it through walls and under carpet so I want to get what I need, but also not have it be thicker than I need.


Routing speaker wire through walls is a lot of work, and not something you are likely to want to redo anytime soon. I'd do it right and use overkill the first time, so I would suggest at minimum 14 gauge, but I personally wouldn't go through all the trouble without using the absolute best solution possible and just run 12g. Even if it cost $10 more, who cares? No chance to ever regret not using the best wire possible. Perhaps needs or usage changes and you upgrade your system to be able to handle full reference level playback with very capable speakers in every position. I have found that some overkill is usually just right when upgrading.


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## teetertotter

zeonstar said:


> Just wanted to confirm that 16 AWG should be fine for rear atmos speakers? The run is definitely under 50 feet. I haven't measured it exactly but it's probably not more than 30. I'm going to be running it through walls and under carpet so I want to get what I need, but also not have it be thicker than I need.


I use Belden 8719, 16 AWG, 2 conductor, stranded tinned bare copper, twisted pair, foil shielded, jacketed, for 5 speakers, UL, CSA, Rohs. NOT just any 16AWG. You will be just fine for your very conservative 30 feet. Watch for wire specifications and would be hesitant on China Made, IMO. Good luck folks.


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## Rafał Trynkus

Hi, can I use mounting hole on the back of Rs41 speaker to hang it? I'm using them as ceiling back speakers...









Wysłane z mojego CLT-L29 przy użyciu Tapatalka


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## Acidrockracer

I would update the surround speaker portion to modern times. Running up to 13 speakers in a setup has led to much more engaging rear speakers. I upgraded from large bookshelves to towers in the side rear because of the amount of material that is sent to the rears. Almost as much as the front. And as such most AVRs have much more information to spread around. Seeing as this was posted in 2014.


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## neversummer604

Regarding matching timbers on all front speakers. Why does this matter if most vocals come out of the Center channel? Can I get away with only matching left & right?

Atm I have 3 x identical fronts. The model/line doesn’t have a dedicated Center & I want to upgrade it. Aluminum enclosures. Other options from the mfg are wood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## maritimer555

Hi all,

I posted the note below on the sonos thread and on another forum with zero response. So i figured that the main question is more about speaker placement (than it is about Sonos). 
Can any of offer an opinion on speaker height ?

Hi Folks,

In the fall i will be building a new home. Main floor will have 25ft high ceiling open concept with a loft.
The open concept living/dining is 21'x16' with 25' peak ceiling with a loft in the rear over the master bedroom and bathroom.

I want to reuse the current stereo components - Yamaha R N303 stereo receiver,
Pioneer PL-200 turntable,Sony Blu Ray and 2 PSB MK II speakers inside and 2 Mordaunt Short AX151 outdoor speakers.
I'll likely replace my WD TV Live with NVIDIA Shield.

I plan to add some Sonos gear from my old place- 2 Play 5's, and a Sonos Move.
I'm leaving behind a Sonos Connect and will likely use the Sonos Port to tie things together.

I have a few questions. Because of the open concept I'm wondering at what height the 5's should be to be effective.
I was thinking on placing the play 5's on opposite walls away from the PSB speakers. How high ? 
Should i just have the carpenter build a wood shelf, use a stand or look for a mount for them?


A similar question for the Move. I plan to place it in the kitchen near the deck patio door. I'll likely mount it and its charger on the wall, as counter space will be scarce. How high should it be? As well I'm looking at the Sonos wall hook to hang it up in my screened in porch - how high should it be mounted outside ?

If you are wondering, the screen porch is on the side, and the main deck will house the Morduant Short wired speakers.
I'm banking a lot of the "Port" pulling this all together.

I'm wide open to any comments on speaker placement as well as to the Port.


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