# Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official Release 9/1/20



## ProjectionHead

--
*Update 9/4/20: View a side-by-side of the P1 vs the P2 using factory default settings:*
Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector

More images and comparisons to come.
--

It's official, Optoma has just announced the release of their new 4K UST Laser Projector, the CinemaX P2.

This new unit boasts a 2,000,000:1 dynamic contrsat ratio (compared to the 1,500,000 rating of the P1) and a 6 segment color wheel (compared to the 8 segment color wheel of the P1).

By omitting yellow from the wheel, the P2 is said to have more vivid colors than it's predecessor.

Also, this unit comes in white only as compared to the P1's black housing.

Launching at several hundreds of dollars less then the current P1 pricing, we expect this unit to be very popular.

I will have units in-hand tomorrow and plan on opening one up ASAP for a side-by-side with the P1.

_* The P1 has been discontinued with no further units being produced and the P2 & CinemaX Pro as it's replacement options. _


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## diggumsmax

It looks like it's a P1 with a new color wheel and is smaller. The offset and everything else is the same but the dynamic contrast is slightly higher. No HDMI 2.1 or eARC is a letdown. Still eliminated only doubly digital iand DTS. Possibly DD+. 

Are they seriously going with the same butchered android marketplace that the P1 has? It has the worst built-in apps out of any display I have ever seen. Lose the sound bar, work with Nvidia to get built in shield like device updated with a new chip that can do VP9 profile 2 for YouTube HDR with at least one eARC port and it would sell for the announced price like hotcakes. Heck, the timing lines up with a release of the HDfury Arcana which is a very reasonable price for anyone who wants all audio formats. 

I wasn't looking to upgrade as I got the P1 at launch, and I have zero regrets but you think they would have taken another route with smart apps. I don't even know if there's a way to get into developer options to side load apps. but it's underwhelming IMO. The color wheel sounds like the only part that was updated which allowed them to make it smaller with better color. Why they changed the color to white I will never know.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Ian Mclaughlin

Was happy to read the Optoma P1 Pro is still regarded as the flagship model, so for us across the pond who have the UHZ65 UST the P2 is not an upgrade at all.


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## USTGuy

Not cool at all. I buy the P1 and now you tell me Optoma just discontinued it and even released a better and more affordable model? Now I'm stuck with this projector that is already outdated and outperformed in every way.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## aerodynamics

So you mean to tell me that Optoma has now released 3 iterations of this while in the same timespan we haven't gotten one LS500 from Epson? Sorry, just a bit salty.


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## ProjectionHead

USTGuy said:


> Not cool at all. I buy the P1 and now you tell me Optoma just discontinued it and even released a better and more affordable model? Now I'm stuck with this projector that is already outdated and outperformed in every way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


You purchased the P1 over 2 months ago; we just found out about the P2 yesterday. While it is stated with some higher specs, it also appears to have a worse lag time (and possibly other "downgrades" to hit the lower price point) . I will be getting in depth between the two units ASAP and posting some updates.


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## ProjectionHead

aerodynamics said:


> So you mean to tell me that Optoma has now released 3 iterations of this while in the same timespan we haven't gotten one LS500 from Epson? Sorry, just a bit salty.


Yes, that is correct. The LS500 will be shipping (as of what I was told by Epson last week) this month; possibly in 2 weeks. Hopefully the delays with the LS500 were worth it. Fingers crossed!


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## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> You purchased the P1 over 2 months ago; we just found out about the P2 yesterday. While it is stated with some higher specs, it also appears to have a worse lag time (and possibly other "downgrades" to hit the lower price point) . I will be getting in depth between the two units ASAP and posting some updates.


Yes I purchased this over 2 months ago which means I'm now stuck with it. Usually a company will announce new model releases months and months ahead of time. If I knew I would have waited two more months and get the P2.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## bjanssen

ProjectionHead said:


> it also appears to have a worse lag time (and possibly other "downgrades" to hit the lower price point)


Your site lists it at 67ms, that seems in line with the current P1 firmware doesn't it? When is someone going to release a UST with 35ms response time and native 24p, ugh.


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## ProjectionHead

bjanssen said:


> Your site lists it at 67ms, that seems in line with the current P1 firmware doesn't it? When is someone going to release a UST with 35ms response time and native 24p, ugh.


It is in line with the P1, I was just echoing what I was told. Sorry, been up late and need more coffee 
I will get more specific info once I have had a chance to speak in more depth with Optoma about the P2 vs P1.

I expect the Epson LS500 will be the unit to beat in regards to response time with its expected 26.8ms. Hopefully that can be confirmed once the production units start to ship.


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## ProjectionHead

USTGuy said:


> Yes I purchased this over 2 months ago which means I'm now stuck with it. Usually a company will announce new model releases months and months ahead of time. If I knew I would have waited two more months and get the P2.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I agree, I don't understand why the "surprise" about this unit. We had dozens of P1s on backorder which were were told out of nowhere will not be fulfilled (due to discontinuation and new model).
Perhaps they didn't want to repeat what happened with the release of the P1; there was sooo much pent up demand met with shipping delays and price hikes causing all sorts of problems.
I wouldn't consider yourself "stuck" with the P1; it is still a killer unit and the jury isn't out on how the P2 stacks up against it yet. Stay tuned for our comparison and see how you feel at that point.


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## Saintpriva

diggumsmax said:


> It looks like it's a P1 with a new color wheel and is smaller. The offset and everything else is the same but the dynamic contrast is slightly higher. No HDMI 2.1 or eARC is a letdown. Still eliminated only doubly digital iand DTS. Possibly DD+.
> 
> Are they seriously going with the same butchered android marketplace that the P1 has? It has the worst built-in apps out of any display I have ever seen. Lose the sound bar, work with Nvidia to get built in shield like device updated with a new chip that can do VP9 profile 2 for YouTube HDR with at least one eARC port and it would sell for the announced price like hotcakes. Heck, the timing lines up with a release of the HDfury Arcana which is a very reasonable price for anyone who wants all audio formats.
> 
> I wasn't looking to upgrade as I got the P1 at launch, and I have zero regrets but you think they would have taken another route with smart apps. I don't even know if there's a way to get into developer options to side load apps. but it's underwhelming IMO. The color wheel sounds like the only part that was updated which allowed them to make it smaller with better color. Why they changed the color to white I will never know.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


How's your 3D experience with the P1, bright enough? I want to buy one.


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## Saintpriva

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Was happy to read the Optoma P1 Pro is still regarded as the flagship model, so for us across the pond who have the UHZ65 UST the P2 is not an upgrade at all.


Saw you own a P1 what's your 3D experience with the P1, is it bright enough?


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## USTGuy

Saintpriva said:


> How's your 3D experience with the P1, bright enough? I want to buy one.


I speak for myself and I can say this offers the best 3D quality. The only 3D in fact that I can compare to my 3D OLED TV.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> I agree, I don't understand why the "surprise" about this unit. We had dozens of P1s on backorder which were were told out of nowhere will not be fulfilled (due to discontinuation and new model).
> Perhaps they didn't want to repeat what happened with the release of the P1; there was sooo much pent up demand met with shipping delays and price hikes causing all sorts of problems.
> I wouldn't consider yourself "stuck" with the P1; it is still a killer unit and the jury isn't out on how the P2 stacks up against it yet. Stay tuned for our comparison and see how you feel at that point.


Even if P2 performs identical to P1, it's still a better choice due to lower price. Optoma could have given a 6-month notification and many of us would have waited before purchasing P1. 
It also seems strange that they decided to release a P2 now while so quickly discontinuing P1.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Saintpriva

USTGuy said:


> I speak for myself and I can say this offers the best 3D quality. The only 3D in fact that I can compare to my 3D OLED TV.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Hey thanks for the reply what glasses do you use? and how dim is the screen that is my only concern since I know 3D glasses cut the brightness down


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## USTGuy

Saintpriva said:


> Hey thanks for the reply what glasses do you use? and how dim is the screen that is my only concern since I know 3D glasses cut the brightness down


Not dim at all. With other DLP projectors it was a constant tweaking of brighthess/contrast/colors to get a decent picture. With P1 I can use same exact settings as 3D and get very bright picture. I use glasses I was recommended by an authorized projector dealer.





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www.amazon.com





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## bjanssen

Saintpriva said:


> Hey thanks for the reply what glasses do you use? and how dim is the screen that is my only concern since I know 3D glasses cut the brightness down


P1 thread is over here: Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES


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## osifer

Looking forward to more UST projectors time come on the market. Hopefully that can support larger screens & lower input lag/price point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## aerodynamics

As bright as the P1 but with a RGBRGB color wheel? It'll be interesting to see how much brightness it retains after calibration.


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## Casey_Bryson

aerodynamics said:


> As bright as the P1 but with a RGBRGB color wheel? It'll be interesting to see how much brightness it retains after calibration.



Right it's all about calibrated lumens and the P1 lost about 1000 or a third when calibrated. They are claiming 25% more color so I'm curious if the DCI-P3 will surpass 85% this time around. Not likely since it's only getting 120% with Rec709 according to them, but an RGB only wheel is definitely better for color any way you slice it.

This release appears just to be a White unit to compete with the VAVA's and White Fengmi's etc...on color alone and maybe to leave some of the P1 issues behind in their rear view mirror.


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Not cool at all. I buy the P1 and now you tell me Optoma just discontinued it and even released a better and more affordable model? Now I'm stuck with this projector that is already outdated and outperformed in every way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


If anything it's smaller and might have slightly better colors due to the smaller color wheel. I actually see this as inferior in some areas. Even for the price. I would have to look again but I highly doubt the 200,000 million. Dynamic black contrast ratio. The speakers are cheaper as all they had to do is shrink them. While the color wheel might of drove up the price, almost everything else went backwards. Two HDMI 2.0 ports and a HDMI 1.4 port? I can't name another display manufacturer that is doing this bit there is always something.

To me, no HDMI 2.1 and eARC where a huge letdown. ARC has been Dolby digital, dys, and possibly DD+. Some manufacturers have gotten up to Dolby True HD over ARC, I think even Atmos. The problem is not many display manufacturers are going to go back and add these features to old displays when they got new displays coming out. 

I'm also still flabbergasted that they are sticking to their super butchered android 8 fork. The P1 claimed 4K YouTube at one point. If none of your built in apps can't do HDR10, you've failed, there are no license costs. There is no excuse. Last year it was a possible disagreement or licensing issue but a year later and zero improvements. I highly doubt we will even see non HDR 4K YouTube. Same offset ratio. The biggest selling point is it's going to be smaller. 

I will hold my judgment until reviews and comparisons have been done but I also really hate the color chains also. Almost everyone agreed that Optima nailed the design and black was right color to choose and now they switch to white? Maybe being smaller, Even with the same offset ratio will make the image a bit lower but I'm not really seeing any improvements here. 



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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Yes I purchased this over 2 months ago which means I'm now stuck with it. Usually a company will announce new model releases months and months ahead of time. If I knew I would have waited two more months and get the P2.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Optoma only makes projectors. They have nothing to fall back on like LG or some other manufacturers. They can't take the tariff hits plus at the virus on top of that and it's a nightmare scenario for everyone. 

This would more than likely have been announced at CES this year but it was cancelled. Optomo isn't as big as someone like LG who has their OLED, among countless other electronic devices that will sell more than an expensive PJ right now. That is why the LG price never went up. I'm sure LG lost money or broke even due to everything.

Lastly, are you unhappy with your P1 and would like to have a slightly smaller white one traded out for the very small cost difference when all things are taken inyo factor like screen. That includes it being taken away this second and you getting a launch P2 when it ships?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> If anything it's smaller and might have slightly better colors due to the smaller color wheel. I actually see this as inferior in some areas. Even for the price. I would have to look again but I highly doubt the 200,000 million. Dynamic black contrast ratio. The speakers are cheaper as all they had to do is shrink them. While the color wheel might of drove up the price, almost everything else went backwards. Two HDMI 2.0 ports and a HDMI 1.4 port? I can't name another display manufacturer that is doing this bit there is always something.
> 
> To me, no HDMI 2.1 and eARC where a huge letdown. ARC has been Dolby digital, dys, and possibly DD+. Some manufacturers have gotten up to Dolby True HD over ARC, I think even Atmos. The problem is not many display manufacturers are going to go back and add these features to old displays when they got new displays coming out.
> 
> I'm also still flabbergasted that they are sticking to their super butchered android 8 fork. The P1 claimed 4K YouTube at one point. If none of your built in apps can't do HDR10, you've failed, there are no license costs. There is no excuse. Last year it was a possible disagreement or licensing issue but a year later and zero improvements. I highly doubt we will even see non HDR 4K YouTube. Same offset ratio. The biggest selling point is it's going to be smaller.
> 
> I will hold my judgment until reviews and comparisons have been done but I also really hate the color chains also. Almost everyone agreed that Optima nailed the design and black was right color to choose and now they switch to white? Maybe being smaller, Even with the same offset ratio will make the image a bit lower but I'm not really seeing any improvements here.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I think the main thing to take from this is that the Optoma P2 is an incremental update rather than a complete new product all together. This is evident by the fact the Cinemax Pro is still their flagship model and as already mentioned this is equivalent to the European model I have had for about ten months now. This will be why there are no really new features to talk about. I expect a true successor is in the making that will have HDMI 2.1 ports etc.


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## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Lastly, are you unhappy with your P1 and would like to have a slightly smaller white one traded out for the very small cost difference when all things are taken inyo factor like screen. That includes it being taken away this second and you getting a launch P2 when it ships?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


The short answer is YES.
I only need and have a 90" screen, I prefer white for my projector, and the RGB only technology for better colors is a big draw for me personally 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> The short answer is YES.
> I only need and have a 90" screen, I prefer white for my projector, and the RGB only technology for better colors is a big draw for me personally
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Sorry, thats pretty much called buying stuff. If you are unhappy with the P1 then you should have returned it immediately for a full refund. You didn't and now you're mad, that makes no logical sense. Maybe you decided you could live with it and now you're more upset but that just reaffirms that you probably should have returned it after you got it as you are never truly happy with it.

Edit: P1 was announced much lower, we all know why the price went up (and probably why you have to order some brands have to be ordered from China). As previously stated, optoma isn't big enough or make a variety of electronics like some other time who sell various electronics. It's a smaller P1 with a better color wheel, more accurate colors. We will do d out if it's the 25 percent optomo is claming and one lost HDMI 2.0 port replaced by a 1.4 port for slightly cheaper. This is worth the price. Still think changing the color was a bad move. That and not doing something about their failed smart features outside Alexa/Google assistant and snartfit app, The streaming apps are pure garbage.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## bjanssen

That's just tech, it is always evolving, everything you buy becomes obsolete. Could Optoma have done a better job telegraphing this? Sure. 

Let's leave this thread to discuss the P2, and not to whine about the P1.


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## Voracious

ProjectionHead said:


> You purchased the P1 over 2 months ago; we just found out about the P2 yesterday. While it is stated with some higher specs, it also appears to have a worse lag time (and possibly other "downgrades" to hit the lower price point) . I will be getting in depth between the two units ASAP and posting some updates.


Looks like Samsung, Epson, and Optoma are going to have a faceoff pretty soon.


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## ProjectionHead

Voracious said:


> Looks like Samsung, Epson, and Optoma are going to have a faceoff pretty soon.


Don't forget about Hisense. Hopefully we will see their tri-chroma (3 laser) unit before the end of the year as well.


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## Voracious

ProjectionHead said:


> Don't forget about Hisense. Hopefully we will see their tri-chroma (3 laser) unit before the end of the year as well.


And so my waiting game continues. The products felt stale when I started seriously looking a few months ago, and I was correct in that belief. I'd rather wait and get the right thing than purchase and be disappointed. I'd really like to see HDMI 2.1 and 4k HDR 10 at 60hz with sub 40ms input lag and 24p mode. All of those things would make me happier than 3 lasers, a different color wheel, or better contrast. I do like that Epson plans to sell with a screen. That lowers the stress level of choosing the right one.


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## USTGuy

P2 seems better from every aspect

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## bjanssen

USTGuy said:


> P2 seems better from every aspect
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I should hope so. The P1 was released over a year ago.


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## bjanssen

Voracious said:


> And so my waiting game continues. The products felt stale when I started seriously looking a few months ago, and I was correct in that belief. I'd rather wait and get the right thing than purchase and be disappointed. I'd really like to see HDMI 2.1 and 4k HDR 10 at 60hz with sub 40ms input lag and 24p mode. All of those things would make me happier than 3 lasers, a different color wheel, or better contrast. I do like that Epson plans to sell with a screen. That lowers the stress level of choosing the right one.


I am waiting for the exact same thing as you. I would settle for worse colour accuracy, brightness, etc just to get those specs you defined.


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## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> Don't forget about Hisense. Hopefully we will see their tri-chroma (3 laser) unit before the end of the year as well.


I would like to see some reviews of that one. It sounds promising indeed.


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## USTGuy

Don't forget that Samsung is also entering the UST projector industry now with HDR10 + available 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Don't forget that Samsung is also entering the UST projector industry now with HDR10 + available
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Samsung refuses to do Dolby Vision. They are the main company pushing HDR+. There are usually reasons for that. I know that HDR 10 and HDR 10+ are royality free though but there has to be a reason Samsung is pushing it so aggressively. 

Dolby Vision is the clear winner in all categories and There isn't a single Samsung TV that supports it. There has to be some reason why Samsung is so invested in it as no Samsung TV will do DV. 

Now, the actual picture quality is going to completely depend on the display. I've seen monitors on amazon that say they do HDR but are 400 nits max lcd models as there's two ratings. One for pretty much every display and then one for OLED due to the way the technology works. They are never a super bright TVs but because of the contrast they look brighter. With backlight display or PJ's displays anything below 1000 nits is pretty much going to be unnoticeable for HDR material. OLED is around 600 nits, maybe less. There are also various other factors obviously. 

HLG always seems to be left out. It's good because one signal for all devices. SDR TV's do SDR and HDR displays do HDR with the same signal which is huge on bandwidth by. That makes complete sense, especially since one of the main backers was BBC for cable/OTA broadcasting. I hope to see it one day on my P1 but I cut the cord a long time ago so it's going to have to come via OTA from a antenna.









HDR10 vs HDR10+ vs Dolby Vision: Which is better?


High Dynamic Range (HDR) is a video format that enhances the picture quality compared to regular content (see HDR vs SDR). There are three main HDR formats: HDR10, HDR10+, and Dolby Vision, and they each display HDR content differently.




www.rtings.com





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> It's official, Optoma has just announced the release of their new 4K UST Laser Projector, the CinemaX P2.
> 
> This new unit boasts a 2,000,000:1 dynamic contrsat ratio (compared to the 1,500,000 rating of the P1) and a 6 segment color wheel (compared to the 8 segment color wheel of the P1).
> 
> By omitting yellow from the wheel, the P2 is said to have more vivid colors than it's predecessor.
> 
> Also, this unit comes in white only as compared to the P1's black housing.
> 
> Launching at several hundreds of dollars less then the current P1 pricing, we expect this unit to be very popular.
> 
> I will have units in-hand tomorrow and plan on opening one up ASAP for a side-by-side with the P1.
> 
> _* The P1 has been discontinued with no further units being produced and the P2 & CinemaX Pro as it's replacement options. _
> 
> Blog Post Announcement: Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector
> 
> Product Details Page: Optoma P2 Projector | Optoma CinemaX P2 Ultra Short Throw Laser 4K Projector
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> **RESERVED FOR UPDATED CONTENT*


Any quick updates you can give us?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> Any quick updates you can give us?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will be busting open a box today and taking some pics compared to the P1. Lucky customers already had units start shipping out yesterday.


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## ProjectionHead

Aztar35 said:


> I would like to see some reviews of that one. It sounds promising indeed.


Come on down! You know you have an open invite to play with the toys in our demo room any time that you'd like to.


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## ProjectionHead

We will be doing a Q&A with Optoma about the P2 today or Monday.
Any specific questions that you all would like to see asked/answered?


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## bjanssen

ProjectionHead said:


> We will be doing a Q&A with Optoma about the P2 today or Monday.
> Any specific questions that you all would like to see asked/answered?


Input lag if you have a Bodnar or some other way of measuring it. (I know you listed it on the spec sheet, but real world measurements always seem to be a bit different/more realistic.)


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## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> Come on down! You know you have an open invite to play with the toys in our demo room any time that you'd like to.


Thanks for the invite. Do those also come in black chassis?


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## ProjectionHead

Aztar35 said:


> Thanks for the invite. Do those also come in black chassis?


Unfortunately not. As this posts survey shows, 90% of respondents would prefer black.


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## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> Unfortunately not. As this posts survey shows, 90% of respondents would prefer black.


I wonder if maybe they'll come out with a black unit or a dark cover for the white one.


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## imhotep6

Aztar35 said:


> I wonder if maybe they'll come out with a black unit or a dark cover for the white one.


Vinyl wrap or plastic dip lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Budala007

ProjectionHead said:


> Unfortunately not. As this posts survey shows, 90% of respondents would prefer black.


I keep reading reviews that the Vava 4K is better quality overall, but Optoma has a better warranty? Thoughts? Vava’s warranty is 1-2 years and no light source warranty. 

Also, the P2 max screen size is 120” vs the Vava’s at 150”. What size screen is going to give the best quality on the P2 overall? If I go with 120” does that give me a less quality image vs a 100” screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## klas

So they basically reintroducing the price point they promised last year but got greedy and jacked it up. It's ok, we need to see sub 2.5k USTs


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## ProjectionHead

Budala007 said:


> I keep reading reviews that the Vava 4K is better quality overall, but Optoma has a better warranty? Thoughts? Vava’s warranty is 1-2 years and no light source warranty.
> 
> Also, the P2 max screen size is 120” vs the Vava’s at 150”. What size screen is going to give the best quality on the P2 overall? If I go with 120” does that give me a less quality image vs a 100” screen?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


we checked out the vava, I don’t understand what about it is better than the P1 other than the lower price.

It did not maintain focus at the 150” advertised, less contrast, less brightness in HDR, worse colors.

Perhaps they improved on the model from when we checked it out but we passed on selling it.

Same image quality from the P1/p2 regardless of 100”/120” but will be brighter with the smaller image size as the light is not dispersed over as large of an area.


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## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> So they basically reintroducing the price point they promised last year but got greedy and jacked it up. It's ok, we need to see sub 2.5k USTs


The price went up on all Optoma projectors (and some other brands too) when tariffs against Chinese electronics were introduced in the USA. Pricing didn’t increase on their projectors outside the USA as far as I know.


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## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> Vinyl wrap or plastic dip lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree, some sort of optional skin would be a great item so they can produce a single chassis color and still offer option to customers.

You can only assume that these big brands (LG, Optoma and now Samsung) conducted market research to determine white was the color to go with, but that’s not what we’re seeing in this poll or hearing from The people we talk to.


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## USTGuy

Budala007 said:


> I keep reading reviews that the Vava 4K is better quality overall, but Optoma has a better warranty? Thoughts? Vava’s warranty is 1-2 years and no light source warranty.
> 
> Also, the P2 max screen size is 120” vs the Vava’s at 150”. What size screen is going to give the best quality on the P2 overall? If I go with 120” does that give me a less quality image vs a 100” screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I own both the P1 and Vava and use them both with the same 90" Grandview Dynamique. I find Vava picture more pleasing to the eye for both 1080p sources and 4K HDR sources. The black levels are also better on Vava.
But I prefer the P1 for:

quieter fan
less heat generating
better hdmi audio passthrough
better 3D quality
more custom calibration options

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

USTGuy said:


> I own both the P1 and Vava and use them both with the same 90" Grandview Dynamique. I find Vava picture more pleasing to the eye for both 1080p sources and 4K HDR sources. The black levels are also better on Vava.
> But I prefer the P1 for:
> 
> quieter fan
> less heat generating
> better hdmi audio passthrough
> better 3D quality
> more custom calibration options
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


thats really interesting. Anything specific about the image you prefer?


----------



## ProjectionHead

I updated the original post in this thread with a couple side by side pics of the P1 vs p2 and a link to view more.
They were taken with factory default settings; will be doing some adjustments, more pics and video next week.


----------



## marc1006

diggumsmax said:


> I will hold my judgment until reviews and comparisons have been done but I also really hate the color chains also. Almost everyone agreed that Optima nailed the design and black was right color to choose and now they switch to white? Maybe being smaller, Even with the same offset ratio will make the image a bit lower but I'm not really seeing any improvements here.
> 
> Haha, you just damned Optoma for three paragraphs and then you say, "I will hold judgement until reviews and comparisons have been done."
> Sorry, I should not be counterproductive, but that sentence your thew in gave me a good laugh.
> *
> Is the Cinemax Pro better in terms of overall PQ? Or is it simply an upgrade in the soundbar. * Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Saintpriva said:


> How's your 3D experience with the P1, bright enough? I want to buy one.


I can't comment as I don't own any 3D material. My Epson used some plug in emitter but doubt it will work on the P1. The last PJ (Epson BLU**** 1080p, mid range standard throw when purchased)I had the shutter glasses that sync up with some emitter and a pair of glasses that came with it. The 3D was great but it just seemed like a hassle. I always ended up one pair of glasses short. 

Avatar is still amazing but I would have to buy some additional equipment depending on what all 3D formats the P1 supports (side by side, ect..) I'm sure someone can answer that question. I would like to see some 3D on an ALR screen though, This thing really shines with HDR on a ALR UST screen, I've seen pretty much the same thing from every review. It's not that it handles SDR material bad, it's just something about when it kicks into it's special HDR mode where the picture quality really shines. I don't even know if they make 4K HDR 3D Blu-Ray movies but it they do, I'm about positive it would look amazing but can't confirm. More so if you had the 3500 lumens model. Even at 3000 lumens the P1 is very bright. Not sure if it's the throw distance or the laser engine source but it's plenty bright.


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Even if P2 performs identical to P1, it's still a better choice due to lower price. Optoma could have given a 6-month notification and many of us would have waited before purchasing P1.
> It also seems strange that they decided to release a P2 now while so quickly discontinuing P1.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I agree that Optoma should of given at least two months advance notice but they didn't, and you pretty much ordered at the worse time so I can see how you are frustrated. When I pre-ordered the P1 it was just under 3 with no sales tax and free shipping. We all know how that turned out. Now it's close to a 1/4th more then the original price announced because of tariffs. With that said, the P2 is smaller, while not a deal breaker changing the color to white, or not at least offering options between white and black, is a mistake. 

We will have to wait until it's out to see if it holds up to Optoma's claims about 20 percent better colors and a higher contract ratio. Even then, you lose and HDMI 2.0 port, I highly doubt the sound will be as good although I bet you have a surround sound system so that is a non issue. If I was still in the market I would be looking for deals on the P1 Pro (3500 lumens model), that appears to still be the best one but will have to wait to hear about the P2. It honestly sounds like the exact same insides as the P1 besides the color wheel, which allowed them to make it smaller. There is always something better around the corner but some more advanced notice would of helped.


----------



## diggumsmax

marc1006, I only ripped the color change. Every other thing I listed is an issue with the P1 and it sounds like nothing has changed Their marketplace is probably the worst custom version of Android I have ever used, 480p output only..... I would be surprised if the P2 really does YouTube at 4K and even if it does it probably won't do HDR due to Google using it's own codec (VP9 Profile 2) which is why so few displays can do YouTube HDR.

I will hold judgement on the claims of 20 percent better colors and higher dynamic black contract ratio until reviews are out. Outside of the color wheel, I'm betting every part is almost identical to the P1 but slightly shrunk and possibly produces less heat and use a little less power. I've never seen the inside of the P1 but the P2 could be identical (except the color wheel) with smaller fans for all I know. I'm just hoping the software is close enough that we start seeing faster updates to the P1 now.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> It honestly sounds like the exact same insides as the P1 besides the color wheel, which allowed them to make it smaller.


The dimensions are actually the same for both; 22.1" x 5.1" x 15".

Offset from screen was pretty much the same as well, considering the variance allowed per unit.

We didn't even test out the sound to see if there was any difference.


----------



## Transepoch

Not that I can recall seeing any 2.35 UST screens, but the one P2 feature listed that caught my attention was the 2x zoom. Although, it looks like Optoma quotes the same for the P1/Pro, so I guess rather than asking how effective it is at Cinemascope presentations, I'll ask if they expose the function on the P2?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Transepoch said:


> Not that I can recall seeing any 2.35 UST screens, but the one P2 feature listed that caught my attention was the 2x zoom. Although, it looks like Optoma quotes the same for the P1/Pro, so I guess rather than asking how effective it is at Cinemascope presentations, I'll ask if they expose the function on the P2?


There is no support for CinemaScope, it will display 2.35:1 content in the standard 16:9 container with letterboxing.


----------



## Transepoch

ProjectionHead said:


> There is no support for CinemaScope, it will display 2.35:1 content in the standard 16:9 container with letterboxing.


Sure, but if the zoom function was exposed, then you could expand the container to push the bars off-screen.


----------



## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> The dimensions are actually the same for both; 22.1" x 5.1" x 15".
> 
> Offset from screen was pretty much the same as well, considering the variance allowed per unit.
> 
> We didn't even test out the sound to see if there was any difference.


I could of sworn that one of the articles I read said it was smaller because of the smaller six segment color wheel but I misread something. So same speakers, I imagine the exact same laser light source. Then cutting costs by changing out of the HDMI 2.0 ports to an HDMI 1.4 port. That color change makes no sense to me outside that Optoma wanted to differentiate between the P1 and the P2. 

It's hard to tell on a cell phone but the picture quality is pretty close from the comparison pics but there are some with obvious differences from the comparison picks. The island picture stood out to me, P2 looked more accurate while the P1 looks looks more vivid but the colors aren't as accurate bit it's also out of the box settings. Contrast ratio has always been harder to notice from screenshots, at least to me unless there is a huge difference.

Just speculating but I'm wondering if the new color wheel actually cut costs, even though it's better. It makes me wonder if optoma was really making any money on the P1, even with how popular it was. It's the only reason I can think of for such a quick cutover. Announcing the P2 then the discontinuation of the P1 seemed rushed, and money always tends to be the driving factor. The tariffs on the P1 also hit them. Even though the launch price went up the initial price increase didn't even cover the tariffs until they raised the price again. They also don't have various other products to fall back on compared to LG or some of the other companies selling UST projectors. 

I ordered the P1 at launch so while the price was higher, it was still before optoma raised the price again so it cost the same as tje P2. If I had ordered it two months ago like USTguy, I would probably not be happy either even though the P1 is still a great projector. Optomo could of at least given two to three months notice. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

Transepoch said:


> Sure, but if the zoom function was exposed, then you could expand the container to push the bars off-screen.


But there is no zoom on the P2 or any other UST in this category


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> thats really interesting. Anything specific about the image you prefer?


The blacks are deeper but without crush. I can't get the same black levels on Optoma without severe crush and loss of dark details. 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> The blacks are deeper but without crush. I can't get the same black levels on Optoma without severe crush and loss of dark details.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


While I don't doubt your claim it's really hard to tell from screenshots at OTB settings, or youtube videos either. You have to see it in person, especially with the only real change being the six color segment wheel. That and the change of the HDMI port version but that wouldn't affect anything. 

While I do believe the six segment color will will improve colors we will have to see if it's really 25%, I also wonder if it's cheaper to make which would explain the quick turnover. Same thing about contrast ratio. I can understand your frustration, this was all rushed. I still speculate that Optoma was either barely making money, breaking even, or potentially losing some money. The announced price was great. Then the tariffs before it was actually shipped. Optomo took a price hit before one unit was sold (this was before the second price increase), At least in the US. Then the virus, which caused a worldwide logistics disaster plus potential costs due to manufacturering safety precautions, along with other things I probably couldn't even think about. This has to be a nightmare for every Chinese projector manufacturer, especially if they just make projectors.

I have no doubt this is the reason you can't get the newer xiaomi in the US. They sold their 1080p model at walmart. I think they just didn't want to deal with all the tariffs as it was launched before the virus. Optomo has been around longer and had already announced a release date for the US, they had more to lose. They were left in a tougher decision IMO. As previously mentioned LG has a ton of other products to help with costs.same with some of the other Chinese USD makers. 

And for people who keep asking when the next firmware/software update is going to be out and what is going to fix, stop. I work at a software company and trust me, development resources were cut, possible before the virus due to tariffs. Optomo is still a business and like a lot of companies, they are probably just trying to keep their head above water right now, like a lot of companies.

Like I said, this is all speculation but even if just some of it is true Optoma could have took a hit for another 2 months while they made the change so I agree with you. This was hastily done. In fact, it was done pretty much overnight. I would be upset if I were you as well. I ordered it at launch so it's hard for me to complain about anything. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## dmcummins

I ordered the p2 with a 120” grandview screen today. I previously had a Sony projector in a dedicated room, but we bought a new house and no place for a dedicated theatre.

this will go into the family room that is around 20’ long 15’ wide. There will be no direct light, but still some ambient light from the other parts of the house. The Sony was around 6 years old, so hopefully this will be a improvement. In our house prior to that I had a marquee crt projector.

I’ve still got my old Swan speakers that were well thought of here around 20 years ago, along with a M&K subwoofer. I need a new AV receiver as I left that at my old house. 

Hopefully movie watching will be much more enjoyable than watching on my current 40” screen. And that can go back into the spare bedroom.


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> While I don't doubt your claim it's really hard to tell from screenshots at OTB settings, or youtube videos either. You have to see it in person, especially with the only real change being the six color segment wheel. That and the change of the HDMI port version but that wouldn't affect anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


What's interesting is that moving from a standard white matte fixed frame screen to a dedicated ALR screen for UST projector seems to have further increased this gap in perceived black levels bewteen the Vava and the Optoma P1. Don't get me wrong I love them both and that's why I am keeping them both, but from a sheer picture quality perspective I prefer Vava. Of course that are other factors that make Optoma P1 a superior display, but I won't go into that now

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## arpy911

I received one of the P2 units on Monday ... replacing a P1. The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- it's terrible, colors are super saturated, and I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing. I did not experience that with the P1 which I no longer have. Did something change with the inputs that is not compatible with the older Genie? Tried the HDMI 3 outlet but it does not seem to work.

Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


----------



## santiagodraco

I ordered a P1 and saw the P2, tried to order it and found that Amazon redirects all P2 pages to the P1 for some strange reason. Anyway I found a way to order it and so I have both on the way arriving this weekend along with a Elitescreen's AEON CLR 120".

Reading this thread I wonder why so much of an issue is made about Optoma not having a super incredible Os/platform...how many people who invest in a projector like this don't use something like an Nvidia Shield, Apple TV 4k or other external device? I have a 9 series Samsung and have not once used the TV's apps for content.

I also don't understand the speculation that the P2 has reduced feature set when all data we have points to the same platform with a different color wheel and some firmware updates and reduced input lag (implying either optimizations in the OS or a slightly faster processor). Where is the evidence that the hardware has been downgraded in any way?

Anyway I'll fire up both this coming week and report back what I find. For me the biggest disappointment is the color change. Black is definitely my preferred choice. Why you would choose white when typically you'd want the projector itself to "disappear" into the background is beyond me. But if the picture quality is that much better and if the input lag is reduced enough to make a difference I'm sure the P2 will be the one I'll stick with.


----------



## santiagodraco

USTGuy said:


> What's interesting is that moving from a standard white matte fixed frame screen to a dedicated ALR screen for UST projector seems to have further increased this gap in perceived black levels bewteen the Vava and the Optoma P1. Don't get me wrong I love them both and that's why I am keeping them both, but from a sheer picture quality perspective I prefer Vava. Of course that are other factors that make Optoma P1 a superior display, but I won't go into that now
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Howdy. What ALR screen did you use in your tests?


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## Copperband

santiagodraco said:


> I ordered a P1 and saw the P2, tried to order it and found that Amazon redirects all P2 pages to the P1 for some strange reason. Anyway I found a way to order it and so I have both on the way arriving this weekend along with a Elitescreen's AEON CLR 120".
> 
> Reading this thread I wonder why so much of an issue is made about Optoma not having a super incredible Os/platform...how many people who invest in a projector like this don't use something like an Nvidia Shield, Apple TV 4k or other external device? I have a 9 series Samsung and have not once used the TV's apps for content.
> 
> I also don't understand the speculation that the P2 has reduced feature set when all data we have points to the same platform with a different color wheel and some firmware updates and reduced input lag (implying either optimizations in the OS or a slightly faster processor). Where is the evidence that the hardware has been downgraded in any way?
> 
> Anyway I'll fire up both this coming week and report back what I find. For me the biggest disappointment is the color change. Black is definitely my preferred choice. Why you would choose white when typically you'd want the projector itself to "disappear" into the background is beyond me. But if the picture quality is that much better and if the input lag is reduced enough to make a difference I'm sure the P2 will be the one I'll stick with.


I can't wait to hear your review as I am thinking about the same setup, P2 with the Elite Screen AEON CLR 120"


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## santiagodraco

Copperband said:


> I can't wait to hear your review as I am thinking about the same setup, P2 with the Elite Screen AEON CLR 120"


I can't wait either ;D Unfortunately UPS had an "emergency or weather event" delay on my screen..... interesting how generic that message is.... and even though they say the package arrived in the distribution center they cannot tell me when it will arrive. How is it they can give me a delivery schedule for something before it ships but once they have the package and it is delayed (yet they know where it is) that they are unable to calculate when it will arrive? Boggle.

Anyway the projector is on the truck and should arrive soon so i can tell you how good it looks against a taupe wall ;D


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## ashvash

What do you think the price will be for Black Friday or holiday season, what's a good place to get from or save on taxes?


----------



## arpy911

arpy911 said:


> I received one of the P2 units on Monday ... replacing a P1. The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- it's terrible, colors are super saturated, and I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing. I did not experience that with the P1 which I no longer have. Did something change with the inputs that is not compatible with the older Genie? Tried the HDMI 3 outlet but it does not seem to work.
> 
> Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


To update my post above, I tried the P2 with a newer DirecTV Mini receiver and had the same issues shown in the above video. Optoma technical support told me to change the EDID on the HDMI ports to 1.4 instead of 2.0 to try to address the problem, that did not have any effect.

In addition, the projector is showing a darker picture on the left half of the screen (a straight line down the middle of the screen denotes the light and dark sides). This appeared to go away after the projector was on for a while.

The upshot is anything on DirecTV with any sort of darker scenes is pretty much unwatchable, brighter material (NFL) is tolerable. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is what I'm testing with but same issues with some other movies, both live and recorded to the DVR.

Either I got a bum unit or there are some issues here ... I will swap it out with a P1 with everything else the same and see what happens.


----------



## santiagodraco

I'm seeing some issues with the ARC port and also if game mode is enabled. The ARC port doesn't support 4k 60hz properly, it seems, and only registers support for 30hz. You need to use HDMI 2 or 3. Additionally with game mode on I'm seeing video black out for a few seconds and come back. With game mode off it seems ok. Color issues occurred on the ARC port as well. This is with the P1 being fed by an Nvidia Shield running through my Denon 8500 via a Caavo remote unit.

The P2 arrives Thursday and I'll do some more testing then. I do think they have some issues with their platform related to HDMI but with the right settings it seems to work properly. That said not working properly in game mode is not an option so more testing to be done. If game mode doesn't work and I see excessive game lag as a result then I'll be considering an alternative. Otherwise I'm pretty happy with the unit so far and I'm hoping the P2 will improve on the issues I'm seeing.

I'm also going to be setting up a PC with a 2080ti to test some PC gaming along with my Xbox One X.


----------



## arpy911

arpy911 said:


> I received one of the P2 units on Monday ... replacing a P1. The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- it's terrible, colors are super saturated, and I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing. I did not experience that with the P1 which I no longer have. Did something change with the inputs that is not compatible with the older Genie? Tried the HDMI 3 outlet but it does not seem to work.
> 
> Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


If anyone cares ... going back to the P1 fixed the flashing white display issues with DirecTV. P2 is going to have to go back. Caveat emptor.


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## santiagodraco

I don't have a DTV to test but I do have several devices plugged into the P1 (Xbox One X, NVS, PC/2080TI, Caavo control center and a Nintendo Switch. I saw issues with various settings if using HDMI 1 (arc) or with game mode enabled...disappointing. That said without game mode it's working great with 4k 60hz on all sources with no issues. Need to see how things look with the screen that arrives tomorrow (so probably a day or two to get it installed) as I can't really judge HDR against the dark wall.


----------



## santiagodraco

Got the AEON CLR 120" screen up today... wow what a great picture. Funny enough I installed it upside down at first... that was disconcerting. But after the flip. Love the picture! This is from the P1. This image is of a twitch stream I pulled up simply to get something with some color on it. The blur you see is due to the camera and not the screen itself. I'm setting up the P2 to test now and will post some images once it's configured.


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## santiagodraco

Here's an album of photos taken with the P2 + 120" AEON CLR with lights on and off for comparison. I'll add more photos to the album over time. Note that there are lights behind my seating position and below the screen aimed at the wall (on the ground behind the entertainment center) and casting light up.

Optoma P2 + 120" EliteScreens AEON CLR Sample Images

A few samples:


----------



## White OP

santiagodraco said:


> Here's an album of photos taken with the P2 + 120" AEON CLR with lights on and off for comparison. I'll add more photos to the album over time. Note that there are lights behind my seating position and below the screen aimed at the wall (on the ground behind the entertainment center) and casting light up.
> 
> Optoma P2 + 120" EliteScreens AEON CLR Sample Images
> 
> A few samples:
> 
> View attachment 3039571
> 
> 
> View attachment 3039572
> 
> 
> View attachment 3039573
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3039574


Great postings, thanks!
What's your take so far about the quality difference between the two projectors ? 

I have the P1 that can be returned till the end of the month and I can get the P2 , just not sure yet which one is really better. Also, really bloke the way it looks in black color. 

Thanks!


----------



## White OP

Typo, love the look of it in black


----------



## santiagodraco

White OP said:


> Great postings, thanks!
> What's your take so far about the quality difference between the two projectors ?
> 
> I have the P1 that can be returned till the end of the month and I can get the P2 , just not sure yet which one is really better. Also, really bloke the way it looks in black color.
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks!

It's really tough to tell. I didn't take the time to switch between the two but I can say that the P2 worked better out of the box. I am going to keep the P2. I'm very happy with the image quality (far exceeded what a projector was going to deliver as this was my first) and there are other reviews out there that seem to indicate better image quality. Plus it cost me 300 less than the P1  Additionally image latency has been improved slightly which I like as I'll likely do some gaming on the system.

I don't think you can go wrong with either to be honest. Combined with the AEON CLR screen it really delivers outstanding image quality. 

If I have any disappointment it's that I wish the 120" screen could have been lower as it's fairly high on the wall. My entertainment center is 24" tall and with the projector on top of that the 120" screen is only about 5" from the top of my 9' wall. Given how large it is though it's not a huge issue as even if it was lower it would still be "tall".

Overall...very satisfied.


----------



## USTGuy

So P2 better than P1 and cheaper? I'm selling my P1 and keeping the Vava

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## clrad

santiagodraco said:


> * Additionally image latency has been improved slightly which I like as I'll likely do some gaming on the system.*


That setup looks great!

Just a few questions, does the input lag seem too noticeable in any kind of non-competitive games? Also, are you using smart fit or did you align everything manually?


----------



## santiagodraco

clrad said:


> That setup looks great!
> 
> Just a few questions, does the input lag seem too noticeable in any kind of non-competitive games? Also, are you using smart fit or did you align everything manually?


I haven't tried it with any FPS games, yet but with "non-competitive games" such as ESO I cannot notice any latency. ESO looks amazing.

I did manual fit and had zero trouble aligning. SmartFit wouldn't work with my setup for some reason but I didn't plan on using it anyway because I planned to game on the system.


----------



## santiagodraco

USTGuy said:


> So P2 better than P1 and cheaper? I'm selling my P1 and keeping the Vava
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Would seem so. No experience with the Vava so cannot comment either way.


----------



## USTGuy

santiagodraco said:


> Would seem so. No experience with the Vava so cannot comment either way.


I own both P1 and Vava. I'm keeping the Vava. Not cool of Optoma to do what they did with the release of P2 like that. 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

USTGuy said:


> I own both P1 and Vava. I'm keeping the Vava. Not cool of Optoma to do what they did with the release of P2 like that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It's pretty much standard practice to announce just a couple weeks (or less) before launch. Some wider known products that do it have "leaks" ahead of time. That said I can understand the frustration. I myself ordered a P1 not realizing there was the P2 because Amazon had their product links broken (P2 links went to the P1).


----------



## Copperband

santiagodraco said:


> I haven't tried it with any FPS games, yet but with "non-competitive games" such as ESO I cannot notice any latency. ESO looks amazing.
> 
> I did manual fit and had zero trouble aligning. SmartFit wouldn't work with my setup for some reason but I didn't plan on using it anyway because I planned to game on the system.


Thanks for the photos. So SmartFit indeed does not work? I recalled quite a few people mentioned under the P1 thread that there is light spill over the screen when they setup the P1 using either manually or using SmartFit. In other words, not 100% of the lights are within the screen, forgot the term of descripting the issue.


----------



## White OP

santiagodraco said:


> Thanks!
> 
> It's really tough to tell. I didn't take the time to switch between the two but I can say that the P2 worked better out of the box. I am going to keep the P2. I'm very happy with the image quality (far exceeded what a projector was going to deliver as this was my first) and there are other reviews out there that seem to indicate better image quality. Plus it cost me 300 less than the P1  Additionally image latency has been improved slightly which I like as I'll likely do some gaming on the system.
> 
> I don't think you can go wrong with either to be honest. Combined with the AEON CLR screen it really delivers outstanding image quality.
> 
> If I have any disappointment it's that I wish the 120" screen could have been lower as it's fairly high on the wall. My entertainment center is 24" tall and with the projector on top of that the 120" screen is only about 5" from the top of my 9' wall. Given how large it is though it's not a huge issue as even if it was lower it would still be "tall".
> 
> Overall...very satisfied.



Thanks ,

There are mix opinions out there about the overall quality of the P2 vs the P1


----------



## Copperband

A few questions after looking at your photos again:
-vertical distance from bottom of screen to the projector?
-what color is the screen?
-I see light reflection on the ceiling(close to top of screen) on those photos when light is off. I thought this screen's StarBright materials won't reflect light to the ceiling?


----------



## White OP

Would be interesting to see an in depth review of the P2 in comparison to the P1


----------



## santiagodraco

Copperband said:


> Thanks for the photos. So SmartFit indeed does not work? I recalled quite a few people mentioned under the P1 thread that there is light spill over the screen when they setup the P1 using either manually or using SmartFit. In other words, not 100% of the lights are within the screen, forgot the term of descripting the issue.


I wouldn't say it doesn't work. It didn't work for me but I didn't have all of the yellow border outside the screen. Instead of tweaking it physically (ie moving the screen up/down) I just did it manually. Worked fine plus I won't suffer any latency penalty from Smartfit.

I have very very slight bleed. Easily resolved with a slight inward movement of the outside borders but it's not enough that I even think about it.

Overall I am super pleased with the combo. It's like having a high quality 120" led tv. You see details in movies you never saw before. I moved my 65" Samsung Q90 to the bedroom and it's like looking at tiny tv in comparison


----------



## santiagodraco

Copperband said:


> A few questions after looking at your photos again:
> -vertical distance from bottom of screen to the projector?
> -what color is the screen?
> -I see light reflection on the ceiling(close to top of screen) on those photos when light is off. I thought this screen's StarBright materials won't reflect light to the ceiling?


The screen doesn't reflect light up. When the image is bright enough you are going to get some light bleed, no screen is perfect and the celling is white.

As for screen color look up the AEON CLR. But when looking at the screen from inside the room with the screen off it is a medium grey color. Looks good against my taupe wall and is reminiscent of a lcd screen like they say.

Distance is about 17" or so. I'll have to measure later to be exact.


----------



## White OP

ProjectionHead said:


> --
> *Update 9/4/20: View a side-by-side of the P1 vs the P2 using factory default settings:*
> Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector
> 
> More images and comparisons to come.
> --
> 
> It's official, Optoma has just announced the release of their new 4K UST Laser Projector, the CinemaX P2.
> 
> This new unit boasts a 2,000,000:1 dynamic contrsat ratio (compared to the 1,500,000 rating of the P1) and a 6 segment color wheel (compared to the 8 segment color wheel of the P1).
> 
> By omitting yellow from the wheel, the P2 is said to have more vivid colors than it's predecessor.
> 
> Also, this unit comes in white only as compared to the P1's black housing.
> 
> Launching at several hundreds of dollars less then the current P1 pricing, we expect this unit to be very popular.
> 
> I will have units in-hand tomorrow and plan on opening one up ASAP for a side-by-side with the P1.
> 
> _* The P1 has been discontinued with no further units being produced and the P2 & CinemaX Pro as it's replacement options. _
> 
> Blog Post Announcement: Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector
> 
> Product Details Page: Optoma P2 Projector | Optoma CinemaX P2 Ultra Short Throw Laser 4K Projector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **RESERVED FOR UPDATED CONTENT*


Which projector do you find better in overall quality?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> The blacks are deeper but without crush. I can't get the same black levels on Optoma without severe crush and loss of dark details.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


P1 has more lumens. With more lumens your black level goes up 👆. Makes sense


----------



## White OP

They are both rated at 3000 Lumens


----------



## White OP

P1 and p2 both rated at 3000Lumens


----------



## Frank714

Looks official, the Cinemax P2 will also become the designation for the European model (where previously the CinemaX P1 became the "UHZ65UST"):








CinemaX P2 CinemaX-P2 4K UHD Ultrakurzdistanz Laserprojektor


<p>Als Teil der CinemaX-Reihe liefert der stylische Ultrakurzdistanz-Projektor CinemaX-P2 unvergessliche Bilder in digitaler 4K UHD Kinoqualität ganz bequem Zuhause. Die Lasertechnologie bietet eine präzise, naturgetreue Farbwiedergabe mit 87% der DCI-P3 Abdeckung - perfekt für das...




www.optoma.de





IMHO a good decision. I found the Designation "UHZ65UST" to be somewhat misleading, considering that unlike the UHZ65 and UHZ65LV both the P1 and P2 only use the smaller 0.47" DMD and not the larger 0.66" DMD.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

White OP said:


> P1 and p2 both rated at 3000Lumens


USTGUY was comparing black levels between Vava and P1 (owns both units)saying black levels were better on the Vava. Which could make sense from his perspective because the P1 has more lumens, same chip, and less native contrast

Vava










P1 Pro


----------



## santiagodraco

Given the Vava's high latency (which points to lower processing power) and overblown claims about luminosity.... I view the product with considerable skepticism. That said the price point is good for those wanting to get a UST laser projector.


----------



## bjanssen

santiagodraco said:


> Given the Vava's high latency (which points to lower processing power) and overblown claims about luminosity.... I view the product with considerable skepticism. That said the price point is good for those wanting to get a UST laser projector.


The Vava can't even do native 24p.


----------



## USTGuy

bjanssen said:


> The Vava can't even do native 24p.


Latest firmware enabled 24fps

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> USTGUY was comparing black levels between Vava and P1 (owns both units)saying black levels were better on the Vava. Which could make sense from his perspective because the P1 has more lumens, same chip, and less native contrast
> 
> Vava
> 
> View attachment 3040304
> 
> 
> P1 Pro
> View attachment 3040306


I have both in the same room. I'm using the same Grandview DY3 screen for both. When I put all those numbers aside and I just go by what my eyes see, the Vava has a slight edge in overall picture quality.
I'm not trying to down Optoma or dismiss your points but I gotta be honest with what I'm looking at.
By the way I've been watching everything on OLED tv since 2016 so my eyes are used to decent PQ.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Stacy Huff

santiagodraco said:


> Funny enough I installed it upside down at first... that was disconcerting.


Oh man, that had me laughing because I know that’s exactly what I would do. If only we had a picture of your face the moment the light hit the screen.


----------



## santiagodraco

Stacy Huff said:


> Oh man, that had me laughing because I know that’s exactly what I would do. If only we had a picture of your face the moment the light hit the screen.


Haha yeah. What was going through my head was "well this thing sucks, why did I buy this?" In my own defense the instructions for the AEON screen was worded very poorly and implied that when looking "down" if the screen is dark it's the right direction. What wasn't clear is that they meant down with the screen lying flat on the ground... Anyway they should have just said "look at the sticker on the back". lol


----------



## santiagodraco

USTGuy said:


> I have both in the same room. I'm using the same Grandview DY3 screen for both. When I put all those numbers aside and I just go by what my eyes see, the Vava has a slight edge in overall picture quality.
> I'm not trying to down Optoma or dismiss your points but I gotta be honest with what I'm looking at.
> By the way I've been watching everything on OLED tv since 2016 so my eyes are used to decent PQ.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I'd give your opinion more credence if you didn't make your bias so very obvious throughout this thread.


----------



## USTGuy

santiagodraco said:


> I'd give your opinion more credence if you didn't make your bias so very obvious throughout this thread.


How am I being bias? I own both projectors 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

USTGuy said:


> How am I being bias? I own both projectors
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Hmm. Ok.


----------



## White OP

Help.....I have the P1 here and tried it for a few weeks on the wall as still waiting for the new UST screen to arrive. Very nice unit , bought for 4450 cad (3320 USD) and can return for free until end of month. Also ordered the P2 for 4300 CAD (3200 USD) as it was on sale ,should be here by mid next week. There are still no in depth reviews out there so hard to tell if Optoma's claim if 25 percentage color improvement is noticable in real life. Personally I like more the black color but at the end picture quality is most important. Any suggestions ?


----------



## White OP

Also curios to know why P2 is still cheeper given that it's a new unit and the P1 is no longer in production? I would think that they would drop the P1 price down to clear stock and then only sell the P2. It's a normal strategy to have the old model cheeper than the new one!. Perhaps the quality of materials in the P1 is better afterall ?


----------



## White OP

Something just doesn't feel right !


----------



## USTGuy

White OP said:


> Something just doesn't feel right !


Only time will tell

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

White OP said:


> Something just doesn't feel right !


The P1 launched at the same price as the P2. The P2 is not substantially different than the P1 so I am not surprised it's launching at the same price. The current P1 stock was sold to merchants at the higher price (when it jumped due to COVID) so I wouldn't expect it to drop much until they realize they'll have to drop it to move old stock. 

The P2 is the better unit and is the one I kept. I also bought both. Returned the P1.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> I have both in the same room. I'm using the same Grandview DY3 screen for both. When I put all those numbers aside and I just go by what my eyes see, the Vava has a slight edge in overall picture quality.
> I'm not trying to down Optoma or dismiss your points but I gotta be honest with what I'm looking at.
> By the way I've been watching everything on OLED tv since 2016 so my eyes are used to decent PQ.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I was explaining with numbers what your eyes 👀 see.


----------



## diggumsmax

santiagodraco said:


> The P1 launched at the same price as the P2. The P2 is not substantially different than the P1 so I am not surprised it's launching at the same price. The current P1 stock was sold to merchants at the higher price (when it jumped due to COVID) so I wouldn't expect it to drop much until they realize they'll have to drop it to move old stock.
> 
> The P2 is the better unit and is the one I kept. I also bought both. Returned the P1.


Key word launched. It was originally announced for a lower price but due to tariffs it was raised at the last minute. This is in no way Optoma's fault, in fact the price hike wasn't even enough to cover the tariffs so that was more money lost. 

I think the second price height was a combo of tariffs and the virus. Optima didn't want to jack up the price too much for people who had pre-ordered (speculation). I'm sure extra precautions that needed to be taking for manufacturing also added to the cost plus the number of units Optima could manufacture. 

All in all it seems like the P2 is cheaper to manufacture than the P1 (once again pure speculation). I think the smaller eight segment color wheel is probably cheaper to make. Even though it's better on paper. I would like to compare with my own eyes but that's not happening anytime soon. There's no way switching one HDMI 2.0 port to 1.4 cut cost by much. To my knowledge those are the only two differences besides the color. 

The tariffs haven't gone away so something about the P2 was more profitable to Optoma, hence the quick switch over. I can't think of any other reason why optimum did this. They should have given two months notice to let people know. I'm wondering if they were even making money on the P1. It's not like Optoma is LG or other UST projector manufacturers that have other products to help with the cost. They only make projectors. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

White OP said:


> Also curios to know why P2 is still cheeper given that it's a new unit and the P1 is no longer in production? I would think that they would drop the P1 price down to clear stock and then only sell the P2. It's a normal strategy to have the old model cheeper than the new one!. Perhaps the quality of materials in the P1 is better afterall ?


Money, The announcement of the P2 shock even authorized retailers, who were still waiting on shipments of p1s that had to be canceled because they could not be fulfilled, offering the P2 as the replacement. Either the same day the P2 was announced or the day after Optima announced that they would be discontinuing manufacturing of the P1. I personally think the smaller eight color segment will cost cheaper to manufacture. There is no way switching one HDMI 2.0 port to 1.4 cut cost by that much. The tarrifs have not ended, and originally that was the price of the P1 but Optima was eating money cuz the initial price hike didn't even cover the tariffs. 

If there's anything I'm missing between the differences let me know but to my knowledge the only two changes are the smaller color wheel and the one port switch from HDMI 2.0 to 1.4. 

I've never heard of any other product being yanked and replaced with a newer model so quickly. This just happened overnight almost. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

From these pictures you can definitely see the new color wheel at work as the pictures on the right (P1) are more yellow. The P1 has Yellow on it's wheel and the P2 doesn't. The P2 achieves the same brightness as the P1 and it's Yellow color wheel (RGBYRGBY) without looking yellow. @diggumsmax It also has better advertised Dynamic Contrast at 2,000,000:1 versus 1,5000,00:1. It's unclear where the added contrast is coming from since the P1 Pro also has an increased advertised dynamic range of 2,500,000:1 along with 500 more lumens. Perhaps it's just better laser dimming with firmware.



















I should receive my P2 tomorrow and I will compare with my Fengmi 4k Cinema (2019). I'm really curious if it will be worth the ~$1800 upgrade at almost double the cost of the Fengmi.

Two shall enter...one will leave LOL

More to come...


----------



## diggumsmax

Casey_Bryson said:


> From these pictures you can definitely see the new color wheel at work as the pictures on the right (P1) are more yellow. The P1 has Yellow on it's wheel and the P2 doesn't. The P2 achieves the same brightness as the P1 and it's Yellow color wheel (RGBYRGBY) without looking yellow. @diggumsmax It also has better advertised Dynamic Contrast at 2,000,000:1 versus 1,5000,00:1. It's unclear where the added contrast is coming from since the P1 Pro also has an increased advertised dynamic range of 2,500,000:1 along with 500 more lumens. Perhaps it's just better laser dimming with firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should receive my P2 tomorrow and I will compare with my Fengmi 4k Cinema (2019). I'm really curious if it will be worth the ~$1800 upgrade at almost double the cost of the Fengmi.
> 
> Two shall enter...one will leave LOL
> 
> More to come...


That's the one picture I posted on previously where there was a noticeable difference. Contrast ratio can be hard to tell from screenshots so it's better to judge with your eyes, does dynamic black contrast ratio only take effect if you are in dynamic black one through three? Because right now those are broken. Picture looks great on that setting for about 15 minutes and then the picture just gets dark. If you switch it back to brightest and then back to dynamic black wine it fixes it for another 15 minutes. That has confused me as xiaomi and some of the other Chinese UST makers contrast ratio is like 3000:1, but they're never seems to be a spec for dynamic contrast ratio. The picture you posted without the box settings the P2 certainly looks more accurate. The P1 looks a more vivid but the colors are noticeably off. 

I pre-ordered the P1 so I've got no complaints. I do believe Optima should have given about 2 months notice so people could have made up their minds or return the P1 if under 30 days so they could get the P2 if they wanted. That's the only thing I don't like about this whole scenario is how Optima pretty much changed this overnight. Also, while I have little doubt the P2 has better colors and contrast ratio than the P1, the Optima has More settings to tweak the picture than any other UST projector out there that is a reasonable price. for me, it's just something you got to see with your own eyes to notice the difference. Especially at this point where a camera isn't going to be able to capture what it would look like in real life. I remember roughly two decades ago when I got my first 5.1 surround sound system. People would ask me how it sounded and you just can't explain it. You really do have to hear it. Video used to be more noticeable in photos and videos but we're getting to the point where you really need to see it on person to judge, especially if you don't get to tweak any settings. 

since the hardware is exactly the same outside the main board and the color wheel, I'm betting the rest of the parts like the fan and the light source have gotten cheaper also, this probably contributes to the cheaper price of the P2. It didn't change the sound bar and it's the same dimensions so outside the small main board change to change the port and the color wheel it's the P1 in white (from what I know, there could be other under the changes I'm on aware of)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

It's possible, even likely, there could be other changes such as a faster (if slightly) core processor to account for the reduced latency as well. I am also not seeing any of the HDMI sync issues I had with the p1 in my setup (Denon 8500, Nvidia Shield Pro, Windows PC with Nvidia 2080ti) all in 4k.


----------



## diggumsmax

santiagodraco said:


> It's possible, even likely, there could be other changes such as a faster (if slightly) core processor to account for the reduced latency as well. I am also not seeing any of the HDMI sync issues I had with the p1 in my setup (Denon 8500, Nvidia Shield Pro, Windows PC with Nvidia 2080ti) all in 4k.


Something may be up with the P1 hdmi ports. Everyone has had issues with various devices. Mine only stopped when I got the HDfury Key to get Dolby true HD and DTS MA to my non arc receiver. Even with its minimal EDID management it solved all my dropout issues. It was a very nice surprise as I just wanted the audio extractor but was amazed that is solved every single one of my dropout issues, completely. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## White OP

P2 arrived yesterday, remote control was broken and image flickering on start up, image quality might be minimally better but projector looks cheep and plastic made. Optoma nailed it with the P1 jet space black as it look very elegant and luxurious unit, choosing the shiny white on the P2 was a mistake, P2 goes back!!!


----------



## Frank714

EDIT: Never mind, thought the user manual would indicate a hatch on the left side of the input field but that's probably just the area for the product sticker...


----------



## ProjectionHead

White OP said:


> Which projector do you find better in overall quality?


The P2 has the superior image over the P1. Same brightness but higher contrast and better colors due to the 6 vs 8 segment color wheel.


----------



## clrad

Finally got a chance to play around with mine a bit last night, managed a bit of time with No Man's Sky and watched about 15 mins of Ready Player One to try out the 3D. Absolutely amazing and couldn't be happier with the setup.

Does anyone have an idea of where to start with calibration for this (figures to get in the ballpark)?


----------



## santiagodraco

White OP said:


> P2 arrived yesterday, remote control was broken and image flickering on start up, image quality might be minimally better but projector looks cheep and plastic made. Optoma nailed it with the P1 jet space black as it look very elegant and luxurious unit, choosing the shiny white on the P2 was a mistake, P2 goes back!!!


I think the white looks fine over the black. Certainly it doesn't look cheap. It's the same exact enclosure except for color. But I would have also preferred black. White seems to be the trend for some reason.


----------



## shanedowley

clrad said:


> Finally got a chance to play around with mine a bit last night, managed a bit of time with No Man's Sky and watched about 15 mins of Ready Player One to try out the 3D. Absolutely amazing and couldn't be happier with the setup.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of where to start with calibration for this (figures to get in the ballpark)?


Ordered the P2 yesterday to replace my 3yr old Xiaomi Mi laser UST. Am also interested in recommended calibration settings.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

clrad said:


> Finally got a chance to play around with mine a bit last night, managed a bit of time with No Man's Sky and watched about 15 mins of Ready Player One to try out the 3D. Absolutely amazing and couldn't be happier with the setup.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of where to start with calibration for this (figures to get in the ballpark)?



@clrad What is your player/source for 3D? 3D on my P2 looks absolutely horrible!!

I'm using Blu-Ray's, MVC's, HSBS etc... and it just looks horrible with wrong colors and a pixelated mess! On the P2 The DLP Link sync color is Purple which I've never seen before; I've only seen Red or Green on past projectors. IIRC Vincent from HDtest mentioned in one of his vids a Xiaomi that was purple too, but the 3D didn't work right either. Maybe it's a bad unit?

I've tried using PowerDVD 19 and MPC-HC with MadVR. I'm tempted to change video drivers for my AMD 5700XT to see if that's the issue.

My Fengmi has a Manual 3D mode and I get a very 4K like ( 3D image via MadVR. If the P2 (or P1 for that matter) had a manual 3D option it would be so much better!


----------



## clrad

Casey_Bryson said:


> @clrad What is your player/source for 3D? 3D on my P2 looks absolutely horrible!!


Sorry to hear you're having problems. Currently using my Xbox One X and PS4 Pro with no issues.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

clrad said:


> Sorry to hear you're having problems. Currently using my Xbox One X and PS4 Pro with no issues.


Thanks can you confirm the color of the DLP Link Signal ( glasses off) ?


----------



## Frank714

Just out of curiosity: What happens when you change the 3D option from "DLP-Link" to "3D-Sync"?

Page 35 of the user manual: https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/Optoma-P2_UM.pdf

Given the absence of a "3D Sync" 3D VESA port on the P2, it sounds as if the P2 could support compatible 3D-RF glasses using an* internal* RF emitter (like the Sonys do). I'm probably dreaming here, but it's better to have asked and receive a "No", than not have asked at all. 

Given the fact that flatscreen manufacturers no longer support 3D, I've always considered it a very smart move that front projector manufacturers still support 3D, but - of course - they should see to it that it works flawlessly.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Here is my quick review of the P2. I had it for 4 days. I was upgrading from LG PF1000U that I gave to my son for his dorm living room. My first impression was it was very quiet. My first impression of the image quality was ok. It was definitely brighter but was it worth 3x the price. It was not the same wow factor when I first got the LG PF1000U. I had low expectations for the 1000U and I was impressed for the price point. As I started to understand the settings for Apple TV 4K outputs and started to actively seek out 4K HDR material on Netflix, Disney +, Amazon and youtube, I started to really appreciate the P2 more. I watched Pandora in 4k HDR last night and I was wowed. It took me a few days for that to happen. I also ordered the optoma alr101e screen that will be arriving today. My concept is to have an extra screen in the living room for daytime viewing. Not sure how that will work out because the P2 is bigger and heavier than my first imagination of moving the projector back and forth from the bedroom.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Kengineerhsv said:


> Here is my quick review of the P2. I had it for 4 days. I was upgrading from LG PF1000U that I gave to my son for his dorm living room. My first impression was it was very quiet. My first impression of the image quality was ok. It was definitely brighter but was it worth 3x the price. It was not the same wow factor when I first got the LG PF1000U. I had low expectations for the 1000U and I was impressed for the price point. As I started to understand the settings for Apple TV 4K outputs and started to actively seek out 4K HDR material on Netflix, Disney +, Amazon and youtube, I started to really appreciate the P2 more. I watched Avatar in 4k HDR last night and I was wowed. It took me a few days for that to happen. I also ordered the optoma alr101e screen that will be arriving today. My concept is to have an extra screen in the living room for daytime viewing. Not sure how that will work out because the P2 is bigger and heavier than my first imagination of moving the projector back and forth from the bedroom.


----------



## Yuppers5

Kengineerhsv said:


> Here is my quick review of the P2. I had it for 4 days. I was upgrading from LG PF1000U that I gave to my son for his dorm living room. My first impression was it was very quiet. My first impression of the image quality was ok. It was definitely brighter but was it worth 3x the price. It was not the same wow factor when I first got the LG PF1000U. I had low expectations for the 1000U and I was impressed for the price point. As I started to understand the settings for Apple TV 4K outputs and started to actively seek out 4K HDR material on Netflix, Disney +, Amazon and youtube, I started to really appreciate the P2 more. I watched Pandora in 4k HDR last night and I was wowed. It took me a few days for that to happen. I also ordered the optoma alr101e screen that will be arriving today. My concept is to have an extra screen in the living room for daytime viewing. Not sure how that will work out because the P2 is bigger and heavier than my first imagination of moving the projector back and forth from the bedroom.


How was the Optoma ALR101e? Saw it went on sale for $499. It seems to go on/off sale quite often.


----------



## jh87

Yuppers5 said:


> How was the Optoma ALR101e? Saw it went on sale for $499. It seems to go on/off sale quite often.


It is OK, but it mainly reduce ambient light from above and not from other direction. UST projectors are promoted as "big screen TV" and some even listed under TV section, however, daytime viewing is disappointed with P2 and ALR 101e combo. My UHZ65 with regular ALR perform better with ambient light on, so I am really not sure the benefit of UST except the placement benefit.


----------



## dmcummins

I’ve had the p2 with the 120” Grandview screen up now for a week or so. It’s OK, but I’m a little disappointed. This is my 4th projector, my last was a Sony 1080p in a light controlled room. i moved and did not have a place for a theater room, so I placed this in the family room. While there is no direct light on the screen, during the day its kind of hard to watch. Definatly not a TV replacement.

it is better than the Sony it replaced, just expected a little better. Maybe I should have gone with a smaller screen. Also my Grandville screen had a few marks in it, I’m probably the only one that will notice, but at $1600 I would expect better.


----------



## mmulet

Looking for some help, so would appreciate it if you steered me in the right direction. So far, I feel the projector is just OK - I actually think my Benq 4K projector at half the cost is better at this point (unfortunately, I don't have access to that projector at the moment).

Purchased a Cinema X P2; picture looks dim with room lights on; image is OK with lights out. The screen is an Elite Screens 120" Cinegray 3D ALR screen. Picture with my older Epson HD projector looks fine with both room lights on and off, so I don't think its the screen.

Is it the settings on the P2? Is it the UST with the screen? Do I have a lemon? I have about 2 weeks to return the Cinema X, so need to make a decision soon on keep versus return.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jh87

mmulet said:


> Looking for some help, so would appreciate it if you steered me in the right direction. So far, I feel the projector is just OK - I actually think my Benq 4K projector at half the cost is better at this point (unfortunately, I don't have access to that projector at the moment).
> 
> Purchased a Cinema X P2; picture looks dim with room lights on; image is OK with lights out. The screen is an Elite Screens 120" Cinegray 3D ALR screen. Picture with my older Epson HD projector looks fine with both room lights on and off, so I don't think its the screen.
> 
> Is it the settings on the P2? Is it the UST with the screen? Do I have a lemon? I have about 2 weeks to return the Cinema X, so need to make a decision soon on keep versus return.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


your screen is not for UST projector.


----------



## mmulet

I guess the description was incorrect, as it said it was for UST. What screen would you recommend?


----------



## USTGuy

mmulet said:


> I guess the description was incorrect, as it said it was for UST. What screen would you recommend?


Grandview Dynamique 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## SanDiegoGuy

santiagodraco said:


> Got the AEON CLR 120" screen up today... wow what a great picture. Funny enough I installed it upside down at first... that was disconcerting. But after the flip. Love the picture! This is from the P1. This image is of a twitch stream I pulled up simply to get something with some color on it. The blur you see is due to the camera and not the screen itself. I'm setting up the P2 to test now and will post some images once it's configured.
> 
> View attachment 3039545


I had the same problem with my 120" Aeon CLR Elite Screen and I have to hang it upside down with the Elite Screen logo hanging upside down on the left upper corner. I am too lazy to fix it. I did follow the installation instruction video too. LOL.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> Grandview Dynamique
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Grandview Dynamique is .4 gain and not for most people to put it lightly. You're sacrificing 50% of the possible nits for a 50% lower black floor versus a .8 gain screen. 

With a P2 You're likely going to see 130 calibrated nits with a 120" screen at .8. With .4 it's only 65 nits. You can get an idea what this would look like by selecting 50% brightness. 

Foot Lambert calculator:








Projector Calculator


Projector calculator finds the optimum viewing distance and throw distance for a specific screen size.




www.omnicalculator.com





Foot Lambert to nits:





Nits to Footlamberts | Kyle's Converter


Instantly Convert Nits (nt) to Footlamberts (fL) and Many More Luminance Conversions Online. Nits Conversion Charts. Many Other Conversions.




www.kylesconverter.com





I'd only recommend .4 gain CLR in a light controlled room ( Where you can benefit most from a lower black floor.) AND and IF no HDR or 3D usage. 

@USTGuy advice is skewed and based on his 100 inch screen of which he does not even utilize the entire screen. Even if he was he'd be getting 90 calibrated nits and if closer to 90 inches he's getting 113 nits which is closer to what you'd get with a .8 gain at 120 inches. 

Bottom line: .8 is more versatile and will suit most people using a UST.


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> Grandview Dynamique is .4 gain and not for most people to put it lightly. You're sacrificing 50% of the possible nits for a 50% lower black floor versus a .8 gain screen.
> 
> With a P2 You're likely going to see 130 calibrated nits with a 120" screen at .8. With .4 it's only 65 nits. You can get an idea what this would look like by selecting 50% brightness.
> 
> Foot Lambert calculator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Calculator
> 
> 
> Projector calculator finds the optimum viewing distance and throw distance for a specific screen size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.omnicalculator.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Foot Lambert to nits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nits to Footlamberts | Kyle's Converter
> 
> 
> Instantly Convert Nits (nt) to Footlamberts (fL) and Many More Luminance Conversions Online. Nits Conversion Charts. Many Other Conversions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.kylesconverter.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd only recommend .4 gain CLR in a light controlled room ( Where you can benefit most from a lower black floor.) AND and IF no HDR or 3D usage.
> 
> @USTGuy advice is skewed and based on his 100 inch screen of which he does not even utilize the entire screen. Even if he was he'd be getting 90 calibrated nits and if closer to 90 inches he's getting 113 nits which is closer to what you'd get with a .8 gain at 120 inches.
> 
> Bottom line: .8 is more versatile and will suit most people using a UST.


I went from 1.1 screen to Grandview 0.4 and I can't agree with what you say. But then again I'm no expert so I only go by what I see

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

dmcummins said:


> I’ve had the p2 with the 120” Grandview screen up now for a week or so. It’s OK, but I’m a little disappointed. This is my 4th projector, my last was a Sony 1080p in a light controlled room. i moved and did not have a place for a theater room, so I placed this in the family room. While there is no direct light on the screen, during the day its kind of hard to watch. Definatly not a TV replacement.
> 
> it is better than the Sony it replaced, just expected a little better. Maybe I should have gone with a smaller screen. Also my Grandville screen had a few marks in it, I’m probably the only one that will notice, but at $1600 I would expect better.


It's probably your screen gain that is at fault here.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> I went from 1.1 screen to Grandview 0.4 and I can't agree with what you say. But then again I'm no expert so I only go by what I see
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


What screen material was your 1.1 gain? Probably not CLR/ALR right?


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> What screen material was your 1.1 gain? Probably not CLR/ALR right?


White matte

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## dmcummins

Casey_Bryson said:


> It's probably your screen gain that is at fault here.


I had it projecting on a light gray wall before the screen showed up. It is definatly better than that. 

Its not bad, I think that the hype that it is a TV replacement is a little to much. Like I said, it’s OK, just not wow during the day. We are going to put up some better blinds and that should help. It looks good in the evening.


----------



## USTGuy

I would never consider this or any other projector for bright room viewing, that's what TVs are for.
Even UST ALR screen manufacturers usually admit that although their screen material offers a slight edge for daytime viewing it is still not even close to TV quality for daytime viewing

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## dmcummins

I’m also waiting for some projector setups, I’m just on HDR, and factory settings.


----------



## dmcummins

Here is a pic from this morning, it’s raining and overcast. So the picture is really not bad. It’s generally darker scenes that suffer.


----------



## dmcummins

I’m streaming using a fire stick. Don’t know if that makes a difference. It didn’t work using the cable box and I didn’t bother trying to get it to work.


----------



## jh87

mmulet said:


> I guess the description was incorrect, as it said it was for UST. What screen would you recommend?


from the website description "Projector Screen is compatible with Short-Throw and Standard Throw Projectors ". The key phrase is the "short-throw", but the P2 is a ULTRA short throw projector. For UST, you need the specific type screen with microscope _saw_-_tooth_ layer that blocks light from above. Unfortunately, because of the special design for the ultra short throw, this type of screens doesn't do well to block ambient light from other angles, which make UST during daytime viewing become pointless -- meaning the standard throw projector paired with good ALR screen will do a better job for ambient light environment.


----------



## shanedowley

shanedowley said:


> Ordered the P2 yesterday to replace my 3yr old Xiaomi Mi laser UST. Am also interested in recommended calibration settings.


Have had mine a day now. Still plenty of tweaking to do but so far so good. Am using it with my 100” 0.8 gain PET ALR from XY Screen (same screen I had with my previous Xiaomi Mi Laser UST). Am impressed. Did some basic calibration just based on my eye and personal judgement (waiting for some recommended calibration settings from the professionals!). The Hobbit in 3D? Yes, excellent with deeper blacks than the Xiaomi. Then tried the 4K of Lawrence of Arabia from my Oppo 203. Completely blown away by that. This to be fair is my first experience of HDR 4K so I guess I’d be fairly easily pleased. But nonetheless the quality is so good. What I am really loving is the P2’s handling of 24Hz frame rate material. I have PureMotion turned off and the effect is gorgeous. Any of the PureMotion settings make films to ‘soapy’ in my opinion.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Yuppers5 said:


> How was the Optoma ALR101e? Saw it went on sale for $499. It seems to go on/off sale quite often.


I like it. It is way better than a regular screen during the daytime. I can enjoy it during the day but yeah P2 performs better at night. They SmartFIT worked great. Not sure if I am losing resolution by doing the smartfit. I didn’t notice any loss of quality. I really like P2 and ALR101e. My experience is limited to only few projectors but I like UST for my setup. The speaker is ok and definitely usable without a sound bar.


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## Kengineerhsv

USTGuy said:


> I would never consider this or any other projector for bright room viewing, that's what TVs are for.
> Even UST ALR screen manufacturers usually admit that although their screen material offers a slight edge for daytime viewing it is still not even close to TV quality for daytime viewing
> 
> For me it is enjoyable watching 100 inches in the living room even with lots of light with P2 and ALR101e. I have 60” 4K tv In the same room but the 100 inches does make a huge difference in enjoyability. Based on what I see, ALR101E makes a huge difference. It is definitely worth the $500. My next purchase will be ALR 120”. Hopefully price will be in same range sometime in the future.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kengineerhsv

jh87 said:


> from the website description "Projector Screen is compatible with Short-Throw and Standard Throw Projectors ". The key phrase is the "short-throw", but the P2 is a ULTRA short throw projector. For UST, you need the specific type screen with microscope _saw_-_tooth_ layer that blocks light from above. Unfortunately, because of the special design for the ultra short throw, this type of screens doesn't do well to block ambient light from other angles, which make UST during daytime viewing become pointless -- meaning the standard throw projector paired with good ALR screen will do a better job for ambient light environment.


I thought the ALR screen designed for UST mostly reflects light coming from below only.


----------



## ProjectionHead

White OP said:


> Also curios to know why P2 is still cheeper given that it's a new unit and the P1 is no longer in production? I would think that they would drop the P1 price down to clear stock and then only sell the P2. It's a normal strategy to have the old model cheeper than the new one!. Perhaps the quality of materials in the P1 is better afterall ?


P1's were pretty much sold out before the P2 was announced. Optoma stopped shipping P1s a couple weeks before they dropped the news on the P2, likely to ensure that they were sold out to prevent the price drop.
You may find a dealer with P1s in stock however looking to discount.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Key word launched. It was originally announced for a lower price but due to tariffs it was raised at the last minute. This is in no way Optoma's fault, in fact the price hike wasn't even enough to cover the tariffs so that was more money lost.
> 
> I think the second price height was a combo of tariffs and the virus. Optima didn't want to jack up the price too much for people who had pre-ordered (speculation). I'm sure extra precautions that needed to be taking for manufacturing also added to the cost plus the number of units Optima could manufacture.
> 
> All in all it seems like the P2 is cheaper to manufacture than the P1 (once again pure speculation). I think the smaller eight segment color wheel is probably cheaper to make. Even though it's better on paper. I would like to compare with my own eyes but that's not happening anytime soon. There's no way switching one HDMI 2.0 port to 1.4 cut cost by much. To my knowledge those are the only two differences besides the color.
> 
> The tariffs haven't gone away so something about the P2 was more profitable to Optoma, hence the quick switch over. I can't think of any other reason why optimum did this. They should have given two months notice to let people know. I'm wondering if they were even making money on the P1. It's not like Optoma is LG or other UST projector manufacturers that have other products to help with the cost. They only make projectors.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I think they learned a lot from their run with the P1 (except preferred housing color) and have ramped up manufacturing according to the proven demand to drive costs down. It is also likely less profitable from a % standpoint for most dealers than the P1 was as well, again to keep the price point lower.


----------



## jh87

Kengineerhsv said:


> I thought the ALR screen designed for UST mostly reflects light coming from below only.


yes, they are, therefore, they also reflect ambient light from below, such as floor, side windows during daytime viewing.


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## USTGuy

Yes but many coming from a LED tv might feel different oftentimes

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Kengineerhsv

USTGuy said:


> Yes but many coming from a LED tv might feel different oftentimes
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Yeah not coming from a led tv. My viewpoint is from a non enthusiast point of view. Not going for the best but from a good enough point of view. I saw a wall size led screen in a restaurant, it was impressive. I thought it was a projector at first but told later it was a $20000 led screen. Yeah led would be better.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Kengineerhsv said:


> I like it. It is way better than a regular screen during the daytime. I can enjoy it during the day but yeah P2 performs better at night. They SmartFIT worked great. Not sure if I am losing resolution by doing the smartfit. I didn’t notice any loss of quality. I really like P2 and ALR101e. My experience is limited to only few projectors but I like UST for my setup. The speaker is ok and definitely usable without a sound bar.


With smartfit or Warp Mode you're definitely losing pixels because you're literally cutting them off the screen. That said there are 8.3 million of them so unless you're sitting around 7-9 feet you may not notice.

I think the P2 has a soft image anyway compared to my Fengmi so I think it's best to get as many pixels as you can on the screen. YMMV.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Casey_Bryson said:


> With smartfit or Warp Mode you're definitely losing pixels because you're literally cutting them off the screen. That said there are 8.3 million of them so unless you're sitting around 7-9 feet you may not notice.
> 
> I think the P2 has a soft image anyway compared to my Fengmi so I think it's best to get as many pixels as you can on the screen. YMMV.





Casey_Bryson said:


> With smartfit or Warp Mode you're definitely losing pixels because you're literally cutting them off the screen. That said there are 8.3 million of them so unless you're sitting around 7-9 feet you may not notice.
> 
> I think the P2 has a soft image anyway compared to my Fengmi so I think it's best to get as many pixels as you can on the screen. YMMV.


 Yeah not sure if the P2 could be any sharper. It looks perfect for sharpness. Maybe my eyes are not that good anymore. Yeah I might rethink my setup but probably not for awhile. Now I am thinking about getting a 120" version of the UST ALR screen. I would have probably even liked an bright 1080P UST projector. The LG1000U was great but only good for night time. Now I can enjoy 100" during the day which is probably worth the extra money.


----------



## mmulet

So, quick follow up. I called Optoma this morning, and they said ANY ALR screen should work; they could not recommend one particular screen or another. I did buy an Insignia screen yesterday to try it out; picture is much better in the dark - but, since not ALR, not very good with lights on. 

With all due respect to Optoma, I don't think this projector is right for my application, so it will be going back. Will try a regular projector, since that seems work great with this screen.


----------



## Joel23

Hi all. I'm still on the fence about purchasing a P2. One big thing Id like to know is does it have an 'instant on' type of feature? I don't want to wait 30 seconds for the projector to boot up every time.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Joel23 said:


> Hi all. I'm still on the fence about purchasing a P2. One big thing Id like to know is does it have an 'instant on' type of feature? I don't want to wait 30 seconds for the projector to boot up every time.


It is not instant. I think less than 10 seconds. PF1000U was instant, and I miss that feature in the P2 but still worth it.


----------



## jh87

mmulet said:


> So, quick follow up. I called Optoma this morning, and they said ANY ALR screen should work; they could not recommend one particular screen or another. I did buy an Insignia screen yesterday to try it out; picture is much better in the dark - but, since not ALR, not very good with lights on.
> 
> With all due respect to Optoma, I don't think this projector is right for my application, so it will be going back. Will try a regular projector, since that seems work great with this screen.


Sure, any ALR will work, just a much dimmer picture than the screens specifically designed for UST.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

Here is a shot P2 with CLR101e at 11:50 AM, the room has windows all around (sunny day) with blinds up but no direct sunlight hitting the wall.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

mmulet said:


> So, quick follow up. I called Optoma this morning, and they said ANY ALR screen should work; they could not recommend one particular screen or another. I did buy an Insignia screen yesterday to try it out; picture is much better in the dark - but, since not ALR, not very good with lights on.
> 
> With all due respect to Optoma, I don't think this projector is right for my application, so it will be going back. Will try a regular projector, since that seems work great with this screen.


Yeah any screen even the wall will look pretty good in the dark and also work. If you want to watch the P2 in daylight, you need an ALR screen designed for UST projector. ALR101e is designed for P1/P2 and works well. Yeah if you have a dedicated home theater room, probably the extra cost of UST can be used elsewhere. UST provides an easy clean setup that is really portable.


----------



## Copperband

Joel23 said:


> Hi all. I'm still on the fence about purchasing a P2. One big thing Id like to know is does it have an 'instant on' type of feature? I don't want to wait 30 seconds for the projector to boot up every time.


I just learned that the Samsung Premier is for sale now and the lower price model has instant on feature. This is getting interesting to choose between the Optoma & Samsung...


----------



## drdoom2k

Hi everyone - do we know if gaming / input lag has been improved for the P2? I remember the P1 being somewhere at around 110ms input lag while the P2 was rumoured to be around 60ms? Read it somewhere but can't find the original source. Any experience on that front?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

drdoom2k said:


> Hi everyone - do we know if gaming / input lag has been improved for the P2? I remember the P1 being somewhere at around 110ms input lag while the P2 was rumoured to be around 60ms? Read it somewhere but can't find the original source. Any experience on that front?


In Game Mode it feels about the same as my rooted Fengmi and that's been tested as low as 32ms.The P2 can accept a 1920x1080 120hz signal, but I couldn't feel any difference gaming at that refresh rate. I'd be interested to see some tests but I didn't detect any lag.

Definitely good enough for non competitive gaming.


----------



## USTGuy

Now, ALR UST screen in 100% dark room looks the best! 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kengineerhsv

drdoom2k said:


> Hi everyone - do we know if gaming / input lag has been improved for the P2? I remember the P1 being somewhere at around 110ms input lag while the P2 was rumoured to be around 60ms? Read it somewhere but can't find the original source. Any experience on that front?


My son who notices input lag played on the Nintendo switch with the P2 and he said he didn't notice much input lag.


----------



## ProjectionHead

mmulet said:


> So, quick follow up. I called Optoma this morning, and they said ANY ALR screen should work; they could not recommend one particular screen or another.


You definitely did not speak to anyone at Optoma who knows what they are talking about. A traditional ALR screen works on a principle of angular reflectivity and will reflect light back at the inverse angle in which it hits it. If you use a screen like this (Black Diamond, Slate, Firehawk, etc) the light coming up from the UST projector will be reflected to the ceiling and not to the audience.


----------



## eastdigital

dmcummins said:


> Here is a pic from this morning, it’s raining and overcast. So the picture is really not bad. It’s generally darker scenes that suffer.
> View attachment 3043054


Hi, 
I'm assuming yours is a 120" screen. Do you mind sharing the distance from the laser to the bottom of the screen? Trying to figure out if I have enough height for 120". 
Thanks, 
Sam


----------



## dmcummins

eastdigital said:


> Hi,
> I'm assuming yours is a 120" screen. Do you mind sharing the distance from the laser to the bottom of the screen? Trying to figure out if I have enough height for 120".
> Thanks,
> Sam


The bottom of the screen is 40.5” from the floor. The top of the shelf the projector is setting on is 22.25” from the floor. He back of the projector to the wall is 16”, front of projector is 30.75”.

yes it’s a 120” screen.


----------



## ProjectionHead

eastdigital said:


> Hi,
> I'm assuming yours is a 120" screen. Do you mind sharing the distance from the laser to the bottom of the screen? Trying to figure out if I have enough height for 120".
> Thanks,
> Sam


These units have a variance for offset, so not every unit will be the same distance beneath the screen for the same screen size.
For a 120, the top of the projector to bottom of screen will fall between 10.609" - 15.61"


----------



## eastdigital

ProjectionHead said:


> These units have a variance for offset, so not every unit will be the same distance beneath the screen for the same screen size.
> For a 120, the top of the projector to bottom of screen will fall between 10.609" - 15.61"
> View attachment 3044807


This is very helpful. With 8.5' feet of basement wall, I wasn't sure how low to the ground I need to place this device. This provides me with a very good estimate. Thank you!


----------



## badboy8813

Just pulled the trigger on a P2 and a 120" Aeon CLR. Cant wait to set it all up.


----------



## Kengineerhsv

badboy8813 said:


> Just pulled the trigger on a P2 and a 120" Aeon CLR. Cant wait to set it all up.


Yeah 120” ALR is a great choice. Regretting not getting the 120” but will work for now.


----------



## Bill97Z

dmcummins said:


> The bottom of the screen is 40.5” from the floor. The top of the shelf the projector is setting on is 22.25” from the floor. He back of the projector to the wall is 16”, front of projector is 30.75”.
> 
> yes it’s a 120” screen.


Thanks, I have been trying to find this information. I really wanted to try this unit, but the vava can be placed on a higher stand and closer to the wall. 30" from the wall is a lot.


----------



## PillPu$her

I just installed the P2 and a Grandview Dynamique 110" ALR UST screen. I ordered the Vava first, but I cancelled my order after doing more extensive research comparing it to the Optoma. The Vava does throw a tighter image to the wall, but the projector seemed limited by the software.

My one question is how to get rid of the splash screen every time you turn the projector on. I can't find a setting to turn it off. Also, the red blinking light when the projector is supposed to be off is annoying. Any ideas?


----------



## aerodynamics

Projector Central review is up:








Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser Projector Review


Optoma's CinemaX P2 4K laser UST projector builds on the success of last year's Editor's Choice-winning CinemaX P1 by adding features and modest performance improvements while dropping the price by $500.



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## Bill97Z

PillPu$her said:


> I just installed the P2 and a Grandview Dynamique 110" ALR UST screen. I ordered the Vava first, but I cancelled my order after doing more extensive research comparing it to the Optoma. The Vava does throw a tighter image to the wall, but the projector seemed limited by the software.
> 
> My one question is how to get rid of the splash screen every time you turn the projector on. I can't find a setting to turn it off. Also, the red blinking light when the projector is supposed to be off is annoying. Any ideas?


What made you select that screen over the AEON CLR?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Bill97Z said:


> What made you select that screen over the AEON CLR?


I can't speak for @PillPu$her but the Grandview will provide a sharper image over the Elite (Grandview can replicate a 4k pixel grid without distortion; we have not been able to recreate on Elite's CLR) as well as rejects more ambient light. It is more expensive than the Elite CLR but much less than Elite's "Legit" 4K UST ALR, the DarkStar UST.
The Elite CLR is still a good bang for your buck and produces a good image.


----------



## JJ JJ

For those looking for distance specs for the P2.


----------



## toukko

@ProjectionHead I bought the grandview dynamique based on your recommendation. My question do you think that in living room with ambient light the P2 will be better over the P1 with my screen ? And furthermore did you had the chance to test this screen with the Xiaomi 1s 4k in an ambient light room ?

Thank you


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> I can't speak for @PillPu$her but the Grandview will provide a sharper image over the Elite (Grandview can replicate a 4k pixel grid without distortion; we have not been able to recreate on Elite's CLR) as well as rejects more ambient light. It is more expensive than the Elite CLR but much less than Elite's "Legit" 4K UST ALR, the DarkStar UST.
> The Elite CLR is still a good bang for your buck and produces a good image.


Why so many negatively criticize the Grandview Dynamique screen for being 0.4 gain? I heard that unless you use your projector in a totally light-controlled bat cave 0.4 gain will wipe away a lot of details in dark areas of the image

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

The Grandview used to be listed at 0.6 gain, then the spec changed to 0.4. I honestly cannot see any difference in brightness between the two versions. I believe they may be understating the gain with the current spec and have asked them for some insight to share.


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> The Grandview used to be listed at 0.6 gain, then the spec changed to 0.4. I honestly cannot see any difference in brightness between the two versions. I believe they may be understating the gain with the current spec and have asked them for some insight to share.


I honestly don't even see a difference in brighthess between 1.1 gain and 0.4 gain 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

toukko said:


> @ProjectionHead I bought the grandview dynamique based on your recommendation. My question do you think that in living room with ambient light the P2 will be better over the P1 with my screen ? And furthermore did you had the chance to test this screen with the Xiaomi 1s 4k in an ambient light room ?
> 
> Thank you


I have never seen the Xiaomi in person. I do think you will prefer the P2 to the P1 as it has higher contrast and better color. The only "advantage" the P1 has over the P2 is the black case color vs white, if that is something that matters to you.
Congrats on the new screen!


----------



## SmartNoob

I setup my P2 with the Elite Aeon CLR 120 and the image looks bright and colorful, however when watching a 3D movie, the colors are extremely washed out. They aren't just darker, like I expected, but colors are completely washed out. The 3D effect is working fine, just the colors of the movie. I've tried watching them with two different Blu-ray players and multiple discs with the same result, so I'm thinking it's the projector. Have I missed something in the projector configuration or maybe a 3D setting? I've seen posts here praising the 3D with the P2, so either I'm missing something or there's an issue with the projector.... Thanks!


----------



## USTGuy

SmartNoob said:


> I setup my P2 with the Elite Aeon CLR 120 and the image looks bright and colorful, however when watching a 3D movie, the colors are extremely washed out. They aren't just darker, like I expected, but colors are completely washed out. The 3D effect is working fine, just the colors of the movie. I've tried watching them with two different Blu-ray players and multiple discs with the same result, so I'm thinking it's the projector. Have I missed something in the projector configuration or maybe a 3D setting? I've seen posts here praising the 3D with the P2, so either I'm missing something or there's an issue with the projector.... Thanks!


Check the picture settings when switching to 3D mode

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## am2model3

real quick: what are the key differences between the P1 and P2 ? also, has anyone used either p1orp2 to go larger than 120 inches? like would it go up to 135 or so and still be fine? could it go up to 150 in a dark room? thanks!


----------



## clrad

Has anyone been experiencing a noticeable line/difference between the left and right half of the image? Switching on/off game mode or power cycling the projector solves the issue but it is rather annoying and an additional 30 seconds to the power on/startup time occasionally. I noticed this a week or two into using the projector daily and it seems to be happening more frequently. Primary input is an Xbox One X through a Denon receiver, brand new HDMI 1.4 cables.


----------



## shanedowley

Yes. I have. And it’s a known issue with the P1 also. Surprised Optoma hasn’t issued a firmware update to correct it. I find toggling between SDR-HDR and other display presets gets ride of it. But it’s annoying.
Also I’ve noticed that the device can ‘hold on ‘ to image display presets when I change between them. For example I’ve calibrated Reference for dark SDR viewing and Cinema for daytime SDR viewing. The P2 sometimes holds on to the setting of one whilst saying it’s on the other. Same thing can happen between HDR material and switching back to SDR, the P2 holds on to HDR settings even though it’s showing in the menus that it’s in SDR Reference or Cinema. A reboot of the device sorts it. But it’s dead annoying.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

shanedowley said:


> Yes. I have. And it’s a known issue with the P1 also. Surprised Optoma hasn’t issued a firmware update to correct it. I find toggling between SDR-HDR and other display presets gets ride of it. But it’s annoying.
> Also I’ve noticed that the device can ‘hold on ‘ to image display presets when I change between them. For example I’ve calibrated Reference for dark SDR viewing and Cinema for daytime SDR viewing. The P2 sometimes holds on to the setting of one whilst saying it’s on the other. Same thing can happen between HDR material and switching back to SDR, the P2 holds on to HDR settings even though it’s showing in the menus that it’s in SDR Reference or Cinema. A reboot of the device sorts it. But it’s dead annoying.


Yep I noticed the same with C07. It's got a lot of the same bugs from the P1, but at least Dynamic Black works.


----------



## Sam Ash

shanedowley said:


> Yes. I have. And it’s a known issue with the P1 also. Surprised Optoma hasn’t issued a firmware update to correct it. I find toggling between SDR-HDR and other display presets gets ride of it. But it’s annoying.
> Also I’ve noticed that the device can ‘hold on ‘ to image display presets when I change between them. For example I’ve calibrated Reference for dark SDR viewing and Cinema for daytime SDR viewing. The P2 sometimes holds on to the setting of one whilst saying it’s on the other. Same thing can happen between HDR material and switching back to SDR, the P2 holds on to HDR settings even though it’s showing in the menus that it’s in SDR Reference or Cinema. A reboot of the device sorts it. But it’s dead annoying.


Thanks for pointing that out Shane, hope Optoma fixes those problems.


----------



## oneil50

Casey_Bryson said:


> Yep I noticed the same with C07. It's got a lot of the same bugs from the P1, but at least Dynamic Black works.


I'm waiting for the NVIDIA Shield fix with the P1.... So long to wait the update.....

Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## zee.dh

I currently have the Dell S718QL projector. I'm looking into the P2 as an upgrade. The Dell projector was never able to handle dark scenes well. I had a hard time watching movies on it. I have it paired with a ALR screen as well with only one window which is normally closed. Ambient light isn't much of an issue. I'm just wondering if anyone can give any insight to this projector who might've done a similar upgrade path. I tried looking at the specs, but I don't understand most of it. Thank you!


----------



## DunMunro

Another video review of the P2:






Turn on CC and use the autotranslate feature to follow the dialogue.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Originally I was looking at the Sony 295ES but now this Optoma P2 is a real contender, but:

Does Optoma P2 have something similar to Sony's amazing "Reality Creation" feature?
Is 80% DCI-P3 on P2 really a lot worse than 100% DCI-P3 on Sony 295ES? 
Looking forward to some feedback.


----------



## USTGuy

No 3D on this one?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> No 3D on this one?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It has 3D but it's not very good. I suspect the P1 was the same unless something drastic changed. 

Was there a purple DLP Sync color on your P1? What color does your Vava use?


----------



## shanedowley

Just subjectively speaking, I’ve had two previous 3D capable projectors, the JVC DLA X500 and the Xiaomi Mi Laser. I find the Optoma P2 to be just as good at 3D. The glasses I used with the Xiaomi work with the Optoma.


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> It has 3D but it's not very good. I suspect the P1 was the same unless something drastic changed.
> 
> Was there a purple DLP Sync color on your P1? What color does your Vava use?


3D on P1 was way better than on Vava thanks to Brilliant Color which helped make 3D picture through glasses look vibrant and punchy. In all honesty 3D on P1 was my favorite feature and less of a headache than its 4K picture.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> 3D on P1 was way better than on Vava thanks to Brilliant Color which helped make 3D picture through glasses look vibrant and punchy. In all honesty 3D on P1 was my favorite feature and less of a headache than its 4K picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics have a setting called Dynamic Color which in theory should be DLP's Brilliant Color, but it actually works even better and is like a 3dlut--which is awesome! Since VAVA is based on Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics I figured it would have the same. 

So when I say 3D is not very good on P2 I was comparing it to my Fengmi which is brighter in 3D, better color, and higher resolution when fed an SBS signal upscaled to 4k via Madvr. P2 won't work with a signal like that..It's the same with the P1. 

Anyway I found out VAVA has a green DLP link signal which should help it's overall brightness. I still haven't confirmed what color the P1 has.


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics have a setting called Dynamic Color which in theory should be DLP's Brilliant Color, but it actually works even better and is like a 3dlut--which is awesome! Since VAVA is based on Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics I figured it would have the same.
> 
> So when I say 3D is not very good on P2 I was comparing it to my Fengmi which is brighter in 3D, better color, and higher resolution when fed an SBS signal upscaled to 4k via Madvr. P2 won't work with a signal like that..It's the same with the P1.
> 
> Anyway I found out VAVA has a green DLP link signal which should help it's overall brightness. I still haven't confirmed what color the P1 has.


I had a 1080p Xiaomi Mi UST projector and dynamic color was nothing as Brilliant Color on the P1. All dynamic color did on my Xiaomi was oversaturate blue and red, that's all.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> I had a 1080p Xiaomi Mi UST projector and dynamic color was nothing as Brilliant Color on the P1. All dynamic color did on my Xiaomi was oversaturate blue and red, that's all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


1080p Xiaomi doesn't have the same DLP chip as the P1/P2 or any of the 4k projectors.

My understanding is that Brilliant Color is used to restore color accuracy when a color wheel with yellow or white is used. It basically makes the color look better and more accurate at higher lumens.


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> 1080p Xiaomi doesn't have the same DLP chip as the P1/P2 or any of the 4k projectors.
> 
> My understanding is that Brilliant Color is used to restore color accuracy when a color wheel with yellow or white is used. It basically makes the color look better and more accurate at higher lumens.


Brilliant Color on P1? Yes.
Dynamic Color on Xiaomi Mi? Not even close

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> Brilliant Color on P1? Yes.
> Dynamic Color on Xiaomi Mi? Not even close
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Again you're talking about the old model..what's your point again?

I've compared the P2 and the color is better in Rec709/SDR with the Fengmi

In addition I compared a 3Dlut in Madvr with Dynamic Color and Dynamic Color did the same thing as the 3Dlut but better.

I get that you love Brillant Color, but you're comparing it to what you've seen on a projector that is 2 years older than the one I'm comparing it to.

I'll post pics showing just how much better 3D is with the Fengmi than the P2 so you can see what you're missing.


----------



## USTGuy

I thought Xiaomi and Fengmi were the same. I just know that I miss 3D on P1 and I never missed 3D on Xiaomi or even my peevious Sony standard projector

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Copperband

CinemaX Pro is on sale now, around $500 more than P2, which is supposed to be so much better than P2?


----------



## badboy8813

Also the VAVA is on-sale for $1999 on amazon right now. is the P2 $1200 better or is the CinemaX Pro the better buy at $3700 right now?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

The short answer is no to both. Go with the Vava at that price if you're looking for bang for the buck. Of course the Xiaomi 1s or Fengmi Pro is better and cheaper.


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> The short answer is no to both. Go with the Vava at that price if you're looking for bang for the buck. Of course the Xiaomi 1s or Fengmi Pro is better and cheaper.


How is Xiaomi and Fengmi better than Vava?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

The Vava is based on the 2019 Xiaomi Mijia and Fengmi's. Initially VAVA didn't have 3D or HDR, but now it does so likely the only major differences are the $1000+up charge and the Xiaomi and Fengmi are smaller. The 2019 versions and the 2020 1s can also be rooted to lower their input lag to as low as 32ms and include additional picture profiles that switch automatically depending on the content (HDR, SDR, etc...) and input.

The other differences are the calibrated lumens and contrast are bested by those 2019 versions. On the 2020 versions the difference is even greater. In fact the the 2020 versions have the best Native contrast of any DLP .47 or .66 projector to date at ~3500:1 versus a meager ~1000:1 on the P2 and 2500:1 on the VAVA (no slouch) and 2019 versions.

And this is just for you @USTGuy You know how you weren't able to get the P1's blacks as dark as the VAVA's---it's the Native Contrast ratio that helped the VAVA then and with the 2020 Xiaomi and Feingmi (1s and Pro) it's even better But don't just take my word for it.....



GUIDE D’ACHAT 2020 VIDEOPROJECTEURS UST 4K – – Le Blog de PHC –














Xiaom 1s










VAVA

*







*


Optoma P2










As you can see the VAVA and P2 both advertise well north of 2000+ lumens, but not a lot of point to that if they shed the lumens when calibrated. The Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics projectors hold their water when calibrated and have much better contrast!!!


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> The Vava is based on the 2019 Xiaomi Mijia and Fengmi's. Initially VAVA didn't have 3D or HDR, but now it does so likely the only major differences are the $1000+up charge and the Xiaomi and Fengmi are smaller. The 2019 versions and the 2020 1s can also be rooted to lower their input lag to as low as 32ms and include additional picture profiles that switch automatically depending on the content (HDR, SDR, etc...) and input.
> 
> The other differences are the calibrated lumens and contrast are bested by those 2019 versions. On the 2020 versions the difference is even greater. In fact the the 2020 versions have the best Native contrast of any DLP .47 or .66 projector to date at ~3500:1 versus a meager ~1000:1 on the P2 and 2500:1 on the VAVA (no slouch) and 2019 versions.
> 
> And this is just for you @USTGuy You know how you weren't able to get the P1's blacks as dark as the VAVA's---it's the Native Contrast ratio that helped the VAVA then and with the 2020 Xiaomi and Feingmi (1s and Pro) it's even better But don't just take my word for it.....
> 
> 
> 
> GUIDE D’ACHAT 2020 VIDEOPROJECTEURS UST 4K – – Le Blog de PHC –
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3052895
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xiaom 1s
> 
> View attachment 3052902
> 
> 
> VAVA
> 
> *
> View attachment 3052904
> *
> 
> 
> Optoma P2
> View attachment 3052905
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the VAVA and P2 both advertise well north of 2000+ lumens, but not a lot of point to that if they shed the lumens when calibrated. The Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics projectors hold their water when calibrated and have much better contrast!!!


I guess I was left with a bad taste in my mouth when I owned the Xiaomi Mi 1080p with 4K compatibility. Regardless, I made my choice going with Vava and I don't find myself messing with the pictute settings as much as I did with either Xiaomi or Optoma P1.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## osifer

I returned a Vava projector last year after I found out I couldn’t get it to work with a universal remote.

Anyone know if that part has been fixed? Q


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mikecorp

Can anybody share about what furniture they bought for UST P2? What is the hxw ? and distance from projector to screen? What is your height from the floor to bottom of the screen?

I made some calculations but It looks like the screen is too high. 

thank you for help
and if you have any pictures of your furniture please share.

I can find the lowest from Ikea Besta 38cm H.


----------



## Bill97Z

Besta is a good height, but it's not a deep unit so will need to be pulled out from the wall towards the center of the room unless you do the pull out drawer hack. This was one of the reasons I went with the VAVA over the P2. For 110" screen the vava image is about 2" lower and the projector is about 3" closer to the screen. Doesn't sound like much but it made a huge difference in the setup. According to optoma, for 110" screen the front of the projector will be 26.4" away from the screen (not the wall, most screens are at least 1-2" deep), and the bottom of the image will be 14.8" higher than the platform the projector is sitting on.


----------



## Ricimer

Is there a review roundup of the "budget" UST segment? Comparing the Optoma P2, Samsung LSP7T and the Epson LS500?
It's getting harder to choose...


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Ricimer said:


> Is there a review roundup of the "budget" UST segment? Comparing the Optoma P2, Samsung LSP7T and the Epson LS500?
> It's getting harder to choose...


Gregory hasn't reviewed the Sammy's yet but he will. He has reviewed more UST's than anyone else:



– Le Blog de PHC – – Actualités et tests en Home Cinema et Hifi


----------



## Bill97Z

Ricimer said:


> Is there a review roundup of the "budget" UST segment? Comparing the Optoma P2, Samsung LSP7T and the Epson LS500?
> It's getting harder to choose...


 Optoma vs VAVA


----------



## Learn2Swim462

Bill97Z said:


> Optoma vs VAVA


This is the review comparing the P1 and the Vava, not the newer P2. The previous post was asking for a comparison of the P2 and the VAVA.

I, too, would like to see a comparison/review of the P2, VAVA, LSP7T, and the LS500!


----------



## Ricimer

I think the biggest issue with the P2 vs LSP7T vs VAVA vs Epson is the throw distance/projection. According to projectorcentrals throw-distant calculator, if you want a 110" screen, the distance from the back of the UST and the wall must be 0.4 on the LSP7T and 0.6+- on the others. Most cabinetts (atleast where i'm from) are max 0.5m deep so if you don't want the cabinett 0.2m from the wall the LSP7T is the only option.


----------



## USTGuy

Vava wins overall. But that's just me having owned both the P1 and Vava

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Bill97Z

Learn2Swim462 said:


> This is the review comparing the P1 and the Vava, not the newer P2. The previous post was asking for a comparison of the P2 and the VAVA.
> 
> I, too, would like to see a comparison/review of the P2, VAVA, LSP7T, and the LS500!


 Most reviews of the P2 suggest the improvements over the P1 is marginal. I also agree with previous poster the Optoma has a longer throw ratio pushing it too far into the room from the wall and the image too high making it an awkward setup with most media cabinets.


----------



## badboy8813

I'm returning the P2 for a Black vava. Throw distance, color, and price difference (Vava is on sale again) was the ultimate deciding factor for me.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

badboy8813 said:


> I'm returning the P2 for a Black vava. Throw distance, color, and price difference (Vava is on sale again) was the ultimate deciding factor for me.


A wise choice if you can pick it up for under $2k. The issue with the VAVA has always been the price wasn't worth it and initially it didn't offer 3D among other things. It seems they've corrected most of the issues, but the price is still the biggest issue when not on sale. 

The xioami/fengmi/appotronics are still the best in many of the most important categories like input lag, native contrast, best 3D, highest calibrated lumen output, and sharpness....but I recognize that not everyone has the technical ability to root for a lower input lag and better settings or wager a possible defect without warranty or withstand the slightly higher noise. That said they're still the best bang for the buck by far. 

Hope you enjoy the VAVA it looks nice in black.


----------



## Rpmartinez

Casey_Bryson said:


> A wise choice if you can pick it up for under $2k. The issue with the VAVA has always been the price wasn't worth it and initially it didn't offer 3D among other things. It seems they've corrected most of the issues, but the price is still the biggest issue when not on sale.
> 
> The xioami/fengmi/appotronics are still the best in many of the most important categories like input lag, native contrast, best 3D, highest calibrated lumen output, and sharpness....but I recognize that not everyone has the technical ability to root for a lower input lag and better settings or wager a possible defect without warranty or withstand the slightly higher noise. That said they're still the best bang for the buck by far.
> 
> Hope you enjoy the VAVA it looks nice in black.


WhichXioami/fengmi/appotronics do you recommend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Rpmartinez said:


> WhichXioami/fengmi/appotronics do you recommend?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


A300,1S, Fengmi, Fengmi Pro... in that order. PRO doesn't have 3D and can't be rooted yet so it goes to the bottom. The A300 is the brightest and the 1S has slightly, better contrast. Fengmi has most of the best characteristics of them all and it's only just behind the 1S. It really comes down to preference and which features matter most to you.

The original Xioami Mijia 4K has needed repair for a few owners, but there is an fix that has been developed by enthusiasts. It's not really relavant since the 1S is the new version and is better and cheaper than the original Mijia 4k. That's why I didn't list it.


----------



## USTGuy

Vava offers the best balance of price, design, quality image, throw ratio, and nation-wide customer service.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## zee.dh

Casey_Bryson said:


> A300,1S, Fengmi, Fengmi Pro... in that order. PRO doesn't have 3D and can't be rooted yet so it goes to the bottom. The A300 is the brightest and the 1S has slightly, better contrast. Fengmi has most of the best characteristics of them all and it's only just behind the 1S. It really comes down to preference and which features matter most to you.
> 
> The original Xioami Mijia 4K has needed repair for a few owners, but there is an fix that has been developed by enthusiasts. It's not really relavant since the 1S is the new version and is better and cheaper than the original Mijia 4k. That's why I didn't list it.


Where would you place the P2 in your list?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

zee.dh said:


> Where would you place the P2 in your list?


A300,1S, Fengmi, Fengmi Pro...VAVA (because it's based on the others and $1000 too expensive for what it offers even at the same price point I'd still go with the others), then P2, then P1. The P2 and P1's native contrast pales in comparison to the others and It's 3D is inferior in every way. I haven't seen VAVA's implementation of 3D so I can't speak for it. If you need an almost silent UST, you don't care about 3D ( I still need to post my pics to show how bad it is compared to others stay tuned), are okay with around 3 times less native contrast, and prefer Dynamic Black/laser dimming for low ADL screens and the coppertone/violet pumping that comes with it, don't want to root to get lower than 67ms input lag....than the P2/P1 will suit you okay. Just know you're paying over twice as much for those compromises.

I think Optoma needs to go back to the drawing board. Let's see if the Samsung LSPT7 offers a better alternative at this pricepoint with similar features and possible advantages to the Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics offerings. Either way the Sammy won't compete on Native Contrast at best it is half of what is possible.


----------



## 3sprit

Casey_Bryson said:


> Either way the Sammy won't compete on Native Contrast at best it is half of what is possible.


Native contrast is the same of P2 (a clone?): 850:1








Samsung LSP7T: primo contatto con il proiettore Laser a tiro ultra corto - Tech4U.it


Grazie alla disponibilità di Gruppo Garman abbiamo avuto la possibilità di provare in anteprima uno di videoproiettori a tiro ultra corto più attesi del mercato, il nuovo Samsung LSP7T. L’esemplare che ci è stato messo a disposizione dal padrone di casa Fulvio è ancora in veste di “pre-serie”...




tech4u.it


----------



## Casey_Bryson

3sprit said:


> Native contrast is the same of P2 (a clone?): 850:1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung LSP7T: primo contatto con il proiettore Laser a tiro ultra corto - Tech4U.it
> 
> 
> Grazie alla disponibilità di Gruppo Garman abbiamo avuto la possibilità di provare in anteprima uno di videoproiettori a tiro ultra corto più attesi del mercato, il nuovo Samsung LSP7T. L’esemplare che ci è stato messo a disposizione dal padrone di casa Fulvio è ancora in veste di “pre-serie”...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tech4u.it


Nice find. Yes it looks like a clone at least when it comes to native contrast. Perhaps the writing is on the wall for 2020 projectors and hope for anything better is now lost for the year. Oh well it's not so bad. 😉

Let me tell you when I got rid of my P2 and setup my Fengmi again I was overcome with a strange sensation that I did not anticipate: relief! As if I had been through some duress lol. The difference in Native Contrast, about 2800:1 instead of 800:1, and slightly sharper optics was that big of a difference. Suddenly everything looked deeper, sharper, and more life like instead of flat and dull!


----------



## DunMunro

Chris Majestic reviews the P2:


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> Nice find. Yes it looks like a clone at least when it comes to native contrast. Perhaps the writing is on the wall for 2020 projectors and hope for anything better is now lost for the year. Oh well it's not so bad.
> 
> Let me tell you when I got rid of my P2 and setup my Fengmi again I was overcome with a strange sensation that I did not anticipate: relief! As if I had been through some duress lol. The difference in Native Contrast, about 2800:1 instead of 800:1, and slightly sharper optics was that big of a difference. Suddenly everything looked deeper, sharper, and more life like instead of flat and dull!


I had the same feeling when I sold my P1 and reconnected my Vava 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Frank714

Somebody should have a look inside these Chinese UST projectors (technically OPTOMA is from Taiwan) to verify they don't use Vantablack to minimize internal stray light.


----------



## Copperband

Can someone please comment on whether Optoma cinemaX Pro is a better choice over P2 now since it is on sale around $3300? I can't find a review on the Pro under Youtube


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Copperband said:


> Can someone please comment on whether Optoma cinemaX Pro is a better choice over P2 now since it is on sale around $3300? I can't find a review on the Pro under Youtube


Pro is the P2 minus the more accurate color wheel, +600 native contrast (so 1400 max), and +500 lumens...but also plus all the bugs that come with the P1. Oh and it's black instead of white.

Go to the P1 thread and see if you'd be as happy as they are with all the issues. YMMV. 

Here's a review of the Pro from last year:


Test Optoma UHZ65UST : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Yuppers5

Hey guys, just got my P2, it's been pretty awesome so far. Using a CLR screen and just a few quick questions for anyone with knowledge that could help out. I tried searching a bit, but couldn't find exactly I was looking for.

1. When viewing SDR via a cable box, I'm seeing white flashing all over the screen. Could have sworn I've seen people talking about this, but perhaps this was in the p1 thread. Just a Spectrum cable box, 1080i SDR. Don't expect anything good from this source anyway, but if it's a problem, I will probably just go streaming anyway, not really sure why I got cable through a box and its crap resolution. If this type of source feed is coming in and this flashing continues, I won't care to get rid of it. I assume it's trying to upconvert this signal and it can't??

2. To follow up, now I just noticed after going SDR, how do I get back to HDR??? If I switch back to a known HDR show on Netflix, it should flip back, correct? I have Auto set for the Dynamic Range, but noticed when watching Outer Banks on Netflix, which I used to adjust picture settings for HDR, I now cannot get to the HDR Display Mode, as it's grayed out. I can only get to the other ones available. Not sure why I can't get it to get back to HDR mode. Tried rebooting projector and Chromecast, but still no HDR Display Mode available. When I first got the projector I remember the screen would flash if I flipped between Auto and Off, and when an HDR show was streaming, it would flash and adjust the signal. Input still shows 4K, but SDR. Am I doing something wrong???

*Edit - Was able to get it to flip to HDR by turning OFF the Match Content Dynamic Range setting of my Chromecast. I turned this on the other day thinking, oh match content's dynamic range, but I assume when you go from SDR to HDR, there's an issue there. Doesn't quite make sense, but the minute I turned it OFF, the screen flashed and HDR was now available again. Think it's for SDR content, I'd turn this on to get a better picture/colors. I will now see what SDR content looks like with this setting OFF, to see if the white flashing goes away.*


----------



## avsenthusiast

Does the P2 have the 2-point or multi-point grayscale controls for precise calibration using apps like Calman?


----------



## Quiquevich

Hi,
great reading you and your experience about the P2. I’ve got it 5 days ago and I still in the tuning... so far I’m happy with the large projection area although I went up tp 100” otherwise my current TV furniture will vet very far from the wall 😀 

Still I have some issues with, I guess, the HDMI. My configuration is composed by the P2, an AppleTV and a Bose500 as a sound bar. Before I had a samsung TV. I managed to have the sound out of the P2 by the HDMI 1, while having the appleTV in the HDMI 2.

What I cannot have yet? is:

the P2 waking up alone when I wake up the AppleTV with the remote of the AppleTV.
hopefully I can control the volume of the bose by the appleTV remote but I can not see any indication of the volume on the screen.
A really funny side effect happened with the DS video, an app of the AppleTV which I use to see the films I have in a Synology NAS. Now I’ve lost the play/pause use eith the appleTV remote so I can not pause a film when I start watching it 😥. This is not happening in other video apps, e.g. Netflix.

Any similar issues ?
thanks in advance


----------



## Sazerac81

Copperband said:


> Can someone please comment on whether Optoma cinemaX Pro is a better choice over P2 now since it is on sale around $3300? I can't find a review on the Pro under Youtube


Hi Casey, 

Thanks so much for the education regarding the Chinese projectors. It looks like they are the superior option at this point if you have some tinkering ability and are adventuresome enough to proceed with the aforementioned tinkering. I was able to get a VAVA 4K black for $1999. However, I am really wondering if the xiaomi 1s is the projector for me. Is there a particular site that has links or references to calibration of the xiaomi 1s and also rooting of the OS on the unit to decrease input lag to sub 40ms?
Thanks so much again! I may keep the VAVA 4k as my portable projector and the Xiaomi as my primary projector.

I am missing the inky blacks of my LG OLED on the big screen and would like to get back just a hair closer to those levels with these UST projectors (knowing that’s largely impossible, but every native contrast ratio increase helps!).


----------



## Sazerac81

Casey_Bryson said:


> Gregory hasn't reviewed the Sammy's yet but he will. He has reviewed more UST's than anyone else:
> 
> 
> 
> – Le Blog de PHC – – Actualités et tests en Home Cinema et Hifi


Hi Casey, 

Thanks so much for the education regarding the Chinese projectors. It looks like they are the superior option at this point if you have some tinkering ability and are adventuresome enough to proceed with the aforementioned tinkering. I was able to get a VAVA 4K black for $1999. However, I am really wondering if the xiaomi 1s is the projector for me. Is there a particular site that has links or references to calibration of the xiaomi 1s and also rooting of the OS on the unit to decrease input lag to sub 40ms?
Thanks so much again! I may keep the VAVA 4k as my portable projector and the Xiaomi as my primary projector.

I am missing the inky blacks of my LG OLED on the big screen and would like to get back just a hair closer to those levels with these UST projectors (knowing that’s largely impossible, but every native contrast ratio increase helps!).


----------



## Spekuloos

Casey_Bryson said:


> don't want to root to get lower than 67ms input lag....than the P2/P1 will suit you okay.


Hello,

I have been considering getting either the P2 or the 1S, and I saw that you mentioned the low input lag of the rooted 1S a few times. I searched a bit, but the only thing I could find is this thread :



https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/projecteurs-uhd-4k/xiaomi-mijia-4k-laser-2019-t30096101-360.html



From what I could see, no one has been able to reproduce those 32ms on the 1S, and even the person who developed the root kit hasn't been able to go below 100ms despite numerous tries (specifically saying that he wasn't able to reproduce the input lag measured by Gregory despite numerous attempts).

The thread is from November 2019 and I'm guessing some things surely must have changed since then, so is there any other post/test/site you could direct me to that shows that you can consistently get 32ms out of the Xiaomi? It's not easy to get information on this subject.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Sazerac81 said:


> Hi Casey,
> 
> Thanks so much for the education regarding the Chinese projectors. It looks like they are the superior option at this point if you have some tinkering ability and are adventuresome enough to proceed with the aforementioned tinkering. I was able to get a VAVA 4K black for $1999. However, I am really wondering if the xiaomi 1s is the projector for me. Is there a particular site that has links or references to calibration of the xiaomi 1s and also rooting of the OS on the unit to decrease input lag to sub 40ms?
> Thanks so much again! I may keep the VAVA 4k as my portable projector and the Xiaomi as my primary projector.
> 
> I am missing the inky blacks of my LG OLED on the big screen and would like to get back just a hair closer to those levels with these UST projectors (knowing that’s largely impossible, but every native contrast ratio increase helps!).


Here is the root info. Spocky has hypothesized that root should be possible on the VAVA since it uses Android 6.0 at it's base just like the Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics and it's based on them as well. I think it's just a matter of someone uploading the image so if something goes awry it's always there to go back to. I have followed the thread and can't remember anyone brave enough to try it. 








[GUIDE][RECOVERY][ROM] Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax Mi Led/Laser Projector/TV


Projectivy Launcher (formerly ProjecTivy Tools) now has its own dedicated thread located here. Intro There's so much information here that a new user could probably feel lost without the courage to read everything. So let's keep things simple ...




forum.xda-developers.com





I haven't seen any sub 40ms on the 1S or the original for that matter, but it would stand to reason that it's possible and at the very least get a significant decrease in lag with root and disabling noise reduction and de-interlacing. More on that in my next reply below👇


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Spekuloos said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have been considering getting either the P2 or the 1S, and I saw that you mentioned the low input lag of the rooted 1S a few times. I searched a bit, but the only thing I could find is this thread :
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/projecteurs-uhd-4k/xiaomi-mijia-4k-laser-2019-t30096101-360.html
> 
> 
> 
> From what I could see, no one has been able to reproduce those 32ms on the 1S, and even the person who developed the root kit hasn't been able to go below 100ms despite numerous tries (specifically saying that he wasn't able to reproduce the input lag measured by Gregory despite numerous attempts).
> 
> The thread is from November 2019 and I'm guessing some things surely must have changed since then, so is there any other post/test/site you could direct me to that shows that you can consistently get 32ms out of the Xiaomi? It's not easy to get information on this subject.


Spocky has a Fengmi like mine and I can't remember what method he used to test but IIRC he stated he could only get as low as 75ms. Gregory Kraine uses a Leo Bodnar and tested 32ms on a rooted Fengmi, but also tested 32ms on an A300 that was not rooted, and around 100ms on and A300 that was rooted(NOTE: IIRC he didn't specify if Noise Reduction and deinterlacing were disabled)--that same A300 also tested lower on lumens so from what I gather the difference in lag is due to differences in chip or hardware performance. 

It's not unlike something you see from PC CPU's where chips with better performance, cut from the same wafer, are sold as a different price/model. Same for GPU's for that matter where one can be overclocked and the other cannot. I think that's what we are seeing here so the luck of the draw is at play. There is such a low amount of people rooting and testing that there isn't enough data out to say for certain one way or the other. 

I haven't tested mine with a leo bodnar, but it's similar to my TCL 65R17 that has an input lag of 18ms per Rtings and has a good enough input lag to go through the White Palace in Hollow Knight without me pulling my hair out wishing I had better input lag. Here's a clip if you're not familiar with the game difficulty and what kind of precision is required


----------



## ReaperZ

Looking at picking up a P2 for my living room setup in the next couple of days hopefully. 

Upgrading from a Sony VPL-HW40ES which I've had for many years, I'm buying blind as there's nowhere locally to demo this unit for me, so fingers crossed i love it!


----------



## Spekuloos

Casey_Bryson said:


> It's not unlike something you see from PC CPU's where chips with better performance, cut from the same wafer, are sold as a different price/model.


Thanks for clarifying that! And cool game  

A few years ago I would have gotten the 1S, but after a lot of back and fourth in my mind I decided I didn't want to take a gamble on the input lag and any possible warranty issues, so I ended up getting a P2. 

I started "installing" it today, but I placed it on a furniture that's 38cm high and when projecting a 120" 16:9 image I find it to be too high for my liking. 

If I put the P2 on the floor the image is spot on height wise, but then I'm afraid it will be kicked (or worse) on a daily basis by my kids. Not to mention the dust. 

The other issue of putting it on the floor is that I have nowhere to hide the cables of the AV receiver, consoles, etc.

Did anyone find any elegant solution for this?


----------



## J Bone

Spekuloos said:


> Thanks for clarifying that! And cool game
> 
> A few years ago I would have gotten the 1S, but after a lot of back and fourth in my mind I decided I didn't want to take a gamble on the input lag and any possible warranty issues, so I ended up getting a P2.
> 
> I started "installing" it today, but I placed it on a furniture that's 38cm high and when projecting a 120" 16:9 image I find it to be too high for my liking.
> 
> If I put the P2 on the floor the image is spot on height wise, but then I'm afraid it will be kicked (or worse) on a daily basis by my kids. Not to mention the dust.
> 
> The other issue of putting it on the floor is that I have nowhere to hide the cables of the AV receiver, consoles, etc.
> 
> Did anyone find any elegant solution for this?


Not specific to the Optoma P1, but a while back another user posted their solution for the ViewSonic UST for a 120 inch screen. Pretty great idea for a custom Cabinet / entertainment center.























Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

Another P2 review:
TEST: OPTOMA CINEMAX P2 – Laser-Beamer mit 4K und HDR für XXL-Bilder vom Sideboard – Michael B. Rehders (use Google Chrome's translate feature for language of choice)


----------



## vbaisetty

SanDiegoGuy said:


> I had the same problem with my 120" Aeon CLR Elite Screen and I have to hang it upside down with the Elite Screen logo hanging upside down on the left upper corner. I am too lazy to fix it. I did follow the installation instruction video too. LOL.


Hello 
I have not set up my cinemax p2 yet. But i did something wrong and the image is upside down. So I cannot read and continue the setup. The manual says Go to OSD menu and choose settings pressing the 3 horizontal bar button I cannot see settings either. Will call support tomorrow. I will appreciate any help in this matter.


----------



## Spekuloos

.


----------



## ProjectionHead

vbaisetty said:


> Hello
> I have not set up my cinemax p2 yet. But i did something wrong and the image is upside down. So I cannot read and continue the setup. The manual says Go to OSD menu and choose settings pressing the 3 horizontal bar button I cannot see settings either. Will call support tomorrow. I will appreciate any help in this matter.


There is a setting in the menu for projector orientation; yours must somehow be set to "ceiling" install vs table.
Unfortunately you may need to stand on your head while scrolling through the menu options in order to select the right orientation. If you can more easily find the "reset to default settings" you can do that as well.
I've never heard of one set to ceiling orientation out of the box; did you get this brand-new?


----------



## timcat4843

The Optoma P2 is currently on sale for $2,999.00 at multiple vendors.
Would $300 off retail be considered a good deal now or should I wait for a better price later in the year?
I will be upgrading from a ViewSonic PX727 4K UHD projector.


----------



## kaaparaki

The price difference between P2(2900) and Pro (3100) is down to $200 now. Has anyone measured the calibrated lumens between the two. How different is it?
Thanks


----------



## Casey_Bryson

kaaparaki said:


> The price difference between P2(2900) and Pro (3100) is down to $200 now. Has anyone measured the calibrated lumens between the two. How different is it?
> Thanks


Go back a page








Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official...


Somebody should have a look inside these Chinese UST projectors (technically OPTOMA is from Taiwan) to verify they don't use Vantablack to minimize internal stray light. ;)




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Copperband

kaaparaki said:


> The price difference between P2(2900) and Pro (3100) is down to $200 now. Has anyone measured the calibrated lumens between the two. How different is it?
> Thanks


Which store sell the Pro for $3100?


----------



## kaaparaki

Copperband said:


> Which store sell the Pro for $3100?


audio general





Optoma CINEMAX-PRO - Audio General Inc.


Optoma CINEMAX-PRO Laser DLP Projector, 4K UHD, 3500 Lumens, D:W 0.25:1, 4K Media Player, 2-year projector and 5-yr/12,000-hr light source warranty (CINEMAXPRO). Free shipping on orders over $50. Hassle-free return policy. Free technical support.



www.audiogeneral.com





It is listed as an authorized seller in optoma website.


----------



## Spekuloos

Hi guys,

First of all thanks for the suggestion regarding the furniture. I ended up using an old wooden table that's 10cm thick, any more than this and the image would be too high.

Getting the image to fit the screen is a PITA. I spent a couple of hours moving the projector around, only to understand that my screen was too low. I raised it 3cm, and now everything is working fine... or so I thought!

It turns out that activating game mode removes any type of geometrical correction done with the software, not just SmartFit. I thought that using the manual geometrical correction would be OK, but I must have misunderstood.

The issue is that it is literally impossible to properly fit the image within the screen without using the geometrical correction, since the projected image is anything but straight. The bottom part is fine, but the upper left corner is at least 5cm lower than the upper right corner. I am attaching a couple of images from before I installed the screen. I thought that maybe my wall wasn't straight, but even with the screen mounted the same thing happens.

So there is no way to reduce input lag while having an image that perfectly fits the screen?


----------



## mikecorp

does anyone know the difference between UHZ65 (3500lumens) and the new cinemax P2 (3000 Lumens)? In Europe we do not have P1. Question is do I need such a bright light?


----------



## Spekuloos

mikecorp said:


> does anyone know the difference between UHZ65 (3500lumens) and the new cinemax P2 (3000 Lumens)? In Europe we do not have P1. Question is do I need such a bright light?


Have a look here (scroll down for the English version) :

Test Optoma CinemaX P2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – 

The input lag on the UHZ65 has been corrected through a firmware update and should be on par with the P2.


----------



## mikecorp

Spekuloos said:


> Have a look here (scroll down for the English version) :
> 
> Test Optoma CinemaX P2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –
> 
> The input lag on the UHZ65 has been corrected through a firmware update and should be on par with the P2.


Thank you for the article. I'm still lost and it is hard to decide which to order. Both models are almost same UHZ65 3500 ansi and P2 3000. Which one would you buy?


----------



## David Orr

So I just received my Optoma P2 about 3 days earlier than expected. I set it up in my living room against our white walls, while I wait for our Grandview 110 inch screen and furniture to arrive. This is not where the projector will live. This room has a ton of windows, all facing west/southwest. I must say the picture was very visible during sunset. Washed out, but not too bad either. Haven't had much time to play with it, but I can already tell what a great projector this is. Excited to get the colors dialed, but I probably won't do that until I have the screen/furniture for our theater.


----------



## Copperband

kaaparaki said:


> audio general
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CINEMAX-PRO - Audio General Inc.
> 
> 
> Optoma CINEMAX-PRO Laser DLP Projector, 4K UHD, 3500 Lumens, D:W 0.25:1, 4K Media Player, 2-year projector and 5-yr/12,000-hr light source warranty (CINEMAXPRO). Free shipping on orders over $50. Hassle-free return policy. Free technical support.
> 
> 
> 
> www.audiogeneral.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is listed as an authorized seller in optoma website.


thank you! Never heard of this company!


----------



## Copperband

Spekuloos said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> First of all thanks for the suggestion regarding the furniture. I ended up using an old wooden table that's 10cm thick, any more than this and the image would be too high.
> 
> Getting the image to fit the screen is a PITA. I spent a couple of hours moving the projector around, only to understand that my screen was too low. I raised it 3cm, and now everything is working fine... or so I thought!
> 
> It turns out that activating game mode removes any type of geometrical correction done with the software, not just SmartFit. I thought that using the manual geometrical correction would be OK, but I must have misunderstood.
> 
> The issue is that it is literally impossible to properly fit the image within the screen without using the geometrical correction, since the projected image is anything but straight. The bottom part is fine, but the upper left corner is at least 5cm lower than the upper right corner. I am attaching a couple of images from before I installed the screen. I thought that maybe my wall wasn't straight, but even with the screen mounted the same thing happens.
> 
> So there is no way to reduce input lag while having an image that perfectly fits the screen?


"Getting the image to fit the screen is PITA" this is exactly my worry on holding my decision to buy the P2........Some people do have problems, while some say they have no issue.
I wonder if this is just for Optoma units, or it applies to all ultra short throw projector...


----------



## Spekuloos

Copperband said:


> "Getting the image to fit the screen is PITA" this is exactly my worry on holding my decision to buy the P2........Some people do have problems, while some say they have no issue.
> I wonder if this is just for Optoma units, or it applies to all ultra short throw projector...


Don't get me wrong, when using the geometrical correction it's relatively easy. And Smart Fit, which I haven't tried, is surely even easier to use (when it works). 

My main issue is that when physically adjusting the image by moving the projector around the left upper corner of the image is always at least 5cm lower than the upper right corner (regardless of whether I am projecting against the wall or against the screen), so I'm finding it impossible to fit the image to the screen without using the geometrical correction. 

This brings two issues: one is that the halo of light around the screen is uneven, since it seems to be dependent on the projected image _before_ the geometrical correction intervenes. So even if the image itself fits perfectly inside your screen, there is light bleeding outside the frame of the screen right up to where the image would be without the geometrical correction. Since my upper left corner is at least 5cm lower than the upper right, this means that I have at least 5cm more of light bleeding above the upper right corner of my screen, which activates my OCD 😐

The second one (which really bothers me) is that game mode defeats the geometrical correction so whenever I activate it the image goes back to being uneven. And it also seems to deteriorate the image a lot. 

I just can't use game mode as it stands. 

I still want to give it another try when I get some free time on my hands, but if the whole bottom part is totally flat and the upper left corner is at least 5cm lower than the upper right one, I don't see how I can get a somewhat straight rectangle without using the geometrical correction. 

My second complaint would be that Dynamic Black, even on setting 1, is unusable. Not only does it have a delay (maybe half a second after the scene changes) which makes it very visible, but it also gives a redish tint to images.


----------



## Jaholibop

I get mine in a few days, quit posting negative comments. It’s scaring me


----------



## Spekuloos

Jaholibop said:


> I get mine in a few days, quit posting negative comments. It’s scaring me


Hahaha, well, on the upside it's extremely quiet and the image quality is excellent (despite my Hivilux UST ALR screen not being the best at what it's supposed to do...). 

But I'll try again to adjust it without using the geometrical correction next week. 

In the meantime I would appreciate some feedback from those who already have their P2. Does gaming mode reduce your image quality, and did you manage to get the image to fit properly without using the geometrical correction?


----------



## NymnNymn

Have had the P2 for a couple of days now and it’s absolutely fantastic! 
Coming from a nine year old Benq W1200, it’s leaps and bounds better. I had a Cinemax P1 briefly for a few days, but it essentially conked out. Started showing bizarre light flickering constantly. Never mind the less than stellar focus uniformity, colour banding, annoying actuator buzz/hum.... and it was a little tricky setting it up just right. Returned it for refund and got the P2 on Amazon Canada.
With the P2, NONE of those issues! I had it set up in about a minute and aligned perfectly to my fixed frame 106 inch Grandview screen. The P2 is just about dead silent, has near perfect focus across the entire screen, I have it set down to 5 and it’s unbelievably sharp, Dynamic Black works great, perhaps noticeable in the odd extreme contrast scene change, but other than that its seamless. No banding to speak of, Beautiful blue clear skies, crisp white clouds etc...
I also need to mention that I definitely find the colours slightly more accurate on the P2 and definitely has better contrast and deeper blacks. I have to admit I’m really glad things worked out this way.
I couldn’t have asked for more in an upgrade! Looking forward to many years of laser projected beauty!


----------



## Spekuloos

NymnNymn said:


> I had it set up in about a minute and aligned perfectly to my fixed frame 106 inch Grandview screen.


Did you use the geometrical correction, or did you manage to align it without resorting to it? 

Did you try gaming mode? If so, did you notice an impact on image quality? 

Do you notice a red tint every time dynamic black kicks in? It happens very frequently to me when watching Avengers End Game.


----------



## NymnNymn

No geometric features needed. Totally fine just adjusting the pj to get it aligned. The P1 was hard!
I don’t game, sorry.
I watched 13 Hours and Zodiac but never noticed any red tint. 13 Hours has a lot going on contrast wise, looked great with Dynamic Black 1! I perhaps noticed a little colour ‘oddness’ with The Wire, but switched it to 80%. It’s a pretty grainy and dated show so I wouldn’t fault the pj at all.
I’m also in a dedicated HT room.


----------



## David Orr

NymnNymn said:


> The P2 is just about dead silent


I borrowed my neighbors VAVA for a week to check it out before I made my purchase, and the fan noise was loud. Not horrible, but was audible. I can't really hear it on the p2 unless I put my head next to the unit.


----------



## diggumsmax

NymnNymn said:


> No geometric features needed. Totally fine just adjusting the pj to get it aligned. The P1 was hard!
> I don’t game, sorry.
> I watched 13 Hours and Zodiac but never noticed any red tint. 13 Hours has a lot going on contrast wise, looked great with Dynamic Black 1! I perhaps noticed a little colour ‘oddness’ with The Wire, but switched it to 80%. It’s a pretty grainy and dated show so I wouldn’t fault the pj at all.
> I’m also in a dedicated HT room.


Unless they already fix dynamic black one then after 15 to 20 minutes the picture gets dark. I believe this will be fixed in the next software / firmware update. It's always been that way since launch

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

David Orr said:


> I borrowed my neighbors VAVA for a week to check it out before I made my purchase, and the fan noise was loud. Not horrible, but was audible. I can't really hear it on the p2 unless I put my head next to the unit.


I've never noticed it on the P1 but I always figured that was due to having my center next to it but is it really that loud?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

NymnNymn said:


> No geometric features needed. Totally fine just adjusting the pj to get it aligned. The P1 was hard!
> I don’t game, sorry.
> I watched 13 Hours and Zodiac but never noticed any red tint. 13 Hours has a lot going on contrast wise, looked great with Dynamic Black 1! I perhaps noticed a little colour ‘oddness’ with The Wire, but switched it to 80%. It’s a pretty grainy and dated show so I wouldn’t fault the pj at all.
> I’m also in a dedicated HT room.


If you haven't got the firmware update on the P2 then I bet it comes up with the P1 because the hardware is very similar outside the color wheel and the one port change

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

diggumsmax said:


> If you haven't got the firmware update on the P2 then I bet it comes up with the P1 because the hardware is very similar outside the color wheel and the one port change
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I own the P1 but I swear someone said in the P1 thread that since the hardware is similar the updates should be on the same day or very close together

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## NymnNymn

Did a firmware update yesterday. Not sure what it fixes but I installed it.
Definitely haven‘t seen any strange darkening/dimming after 15 or 20 min either before OR after update.


----------



## Spekuloos

NymnNymn said:


> No geometric features needed. Totally fine just adjusting the pj to get it aligned. The P1 was hard!
> I don’t game, sorry.
> I watched 13 Hours and Zodiac but never noticed any red tint. 13 Hours has a lot going on contrast wise, looked great with Dynamic Black 1! I perhaps noticed a little colour ‘oddness’ with The Wire, but switched it to 80%. It’s a pretty grainy and dated show so I wouldn’t fault the pj at all.
> I’m also in a dedicated HT room.


Ok, thanks a lot for the feedback. Honestly if I manage to get the picture inside the frame without using the geometric correction I'll be super happy.

I'll give it another go, and otherwise I will contact my reseller to see if it could be an issue with the unit.


----------



## diggumsmax

Spekuloos said:


> Ok, thanks a lot for the feedback. Honestly if I manage to get the picture inside the frame without using the geometric correction I'll be super happy.
> 
> I'll give it another go, and otherwise I will contact my reseller to see if it could be an issue with the unit.


This is insanely annoying. The ALR screen I have isn't the easiest to hang in my opinion. I got a Grandview Dynamic, measured like 12 times and was just barely off. So annoying. I understand why they can't have a lens shift on these things but you got to get a perfect especially if you don't have any control over the height of the projector. If you're getting light bleed on two opposite corners then the screen or the projector might not be 100% level but I've been through this and it's not as easy for everyone.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

NymnNymn said:


> Did a firmware update yesterday. Not sure what it fixes but I installed it.
> Definitely haven‘t seen any strange darkening/dimming after 15 or 20 min either before OR after update.


Awesome, I've been out of town and this was the best setting out of the box but it would get them after 20 minutes so if this is fixed I'm going to be super happy. Now I got the P1 so hopefully it's ahrad but you never know. I'm just going to do a quick search of the P1. Find out for sure

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Spekuloos

diggumsmax said:


> Unless they already fix dynamic black one then after 15 to 20 minutes the picture gets dark. I believe this will be fixed in the next software / firmware update. It's always been that way since launch
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


My P2 doesn't suffer from that bug. You can leave dynamic black on during the whole movie and the picture doesn't get permanently dark.

However, I just watched more content with dynamic black on on setting 1 and I confirm that it is extremely visible when it kicks in, to the point of being disturbing. It also has a certain delay to it that is extremely annoying. Especially when there is back and forth between dark and less dark scenes.

I haven't tried SDR content, but for HDR content I prefer to just stay clear of dynamic black.

Regarding the noise, the P2 is definitely extremely quiet, even up close and with the sound off.


----------



## Spekuloos

diggumsmax said:


> This is insanely annoying. The ALR screen I have isn't the easiest to hang in my opinion. I got a Grandview Dynamic, measured like 12 times and was just barely off. So annoying. I understand why they can't have a lens shift on these things but you got to get a perfect especially if you don't have any control over the height of the projector. If you're getting light bleed on two opposite corners then the screen or the projector might not be 100% level but I've been through this and it's not as easy for everyone.


Both the projector and the screen are perfectly level vertically and horizontally, I double and triple checked with a level. 

Out of the box, the bottom of the image is more or less straight. It's the upper left corner that is 5cm+ lower than the upper right. I turned (very) slowly the projector either way, and I tried pulling it closer and further. I even raised the back feet a bit just in case. 

But I really don't find a way to correct that without affecting the bottom right corner, and even then the upper left corner is always lower than the upper right one. This happens regardless of where I am projecting (screen or wall). 

And yes, don't get me started regarding the screen height 

But I'll give it another shot when I can.


----------



## Charles R

Spekuloos said:


> I thought that maybe my wall wasn't straight, but even with the screen mounted the same thing happens.


One thing you can do/try is mounting the screen at the top "off the wall" by using spacers behind the brackets. This way the screen should hang "straight down" and eliminate the wall influencing how it hangs. Then you can use spacers to adjust the bottom corners of the screen inwards or outwards as needed. It still won't be perfect but should give you a little control over "adjusting" the screen to match the projected image once you have tweaked the projected image as much as you can.


----------



## diggumsmax

Spekuloos said:


> My P2 doesn't suffer from that bug. You can leave dynamic black on during the whole movie and the picture doesn't get permanently dark.
> 
> However, I just watched more content with dynamic black on on setting 1 and I confirm that it is extremely visible when it kicks in, to the point of being disturbing. It also has a certain delay to it that is extremely annoying. Especially when there is back and forth between dark and less dark scenes.
> 
> I haven't tried SDR content, but for HDR content I prefer to just stay clear of dynamic black.
> 
> Regarding the noise, the P2 is definitely extremely quiet, even up close and with the sound off.


I know on the P1 it was any of the dynamic black settings. You're lucky because dynamic black at the lowest level looks best. At least to me

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bill97Z

How do you like the screen?



diggumsmax said:


> This is insanely annoying. The ALR screen I have isn't the easiest to hang in my opinion. I got a Grandview Dynamic, measured like 12 times and was just barely off. So annoying. I understand why they can't have a lens shift on these things but you got to get a perfect especially if you don't have any control over the height of the projector. If you're getting light bleed on two opposite corners then the screen or the projector might not be 100% level but I've been through this and it's not as easy for everyone.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Bill97Z said:


> How do you like the screen?


I can't speak highly enough about the Grandview. It's priced right and they have really good quality control. I will say I've seen some other UST screens that are easier to assemble but once you get it up it looks great

This is with all lights on. It will obviously look much better in the dark but you can see how good of a job it does it rejecting light. Please note that the screen was slightly off-level and there were some minor creases in the bottom left that had been corrected when this video was taken. There was also a pretty big price drop. I got the 100-in but I already got the 110 if it was priced like it is today. Plus they're one of the few that actually make 110









New video by Josh Fisher







photos.app.goo.gl





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## David Orr

diggumsmax said:


> I can't speak highly enough about the Grandview. It's priced right and they have really good quality control. I will say I've seen some other UST screens that are easier to assemble but once you get it up it looks great
> 
> This is with all lights on. It will obviously look much better in the dark but you can see how good of a job it does it rejecting light. Please note that the screen was slightly off-level and there were some minor creases in the bottom left that had been corrected when this video was taken. There was also a pretty big price drop. I got the 100-in but I already got the 110 if it was priced like it is today. Plus they're one of the few that actually make 110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New video by Josh Fisher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing that video. Getting my Grandview tomorrow. Super excited, as we've been projecting onto a wall.


----------



## Bill97Z

Also, just bought a grandview screen. I compared samples of 6 different screens it it was in the top 3 in performance in my room for brightness, color, contrast, light rejection, and black levels.



diggumsmax said:


> I can't speak highly enough about the Grandview. It's priced right and they have really good quality control. I will say I've seen some other UST screens that are easier to assemble but once you get it up it looks great
> 
> This is with all lights on. It will obviously look much better in the dark but you can see how good of a job it does it rejecting light. Please note that the screen was slightly off-level and there were some minor creases in the bottom left that had been corrected when this video was taken. There was also a pretty big price drop. I got the 100-in but I already got the 110 if it was priced like it is today. Plus they're one of the few that actually make 110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New video by Josh Fisher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Spekuloos

diggumsmax said:


> I know on the P1 it was any of the dynamic black settings. You're lucky because dynamic black at the lowest level looks best. At least to me
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I've been trying dynamic black on setting 1 a lot, and I really don't like it. If the content switches between dark and bright (or less dark) scenes a lot, you can really see dynamic black kicking in mid-scene very often, which is really annoying. It's a shame the changes aren't more seamless... 

I've also given up on aligning the image without using the geometrical correction. My wall is too wobly, and even with the screen mounted where it should be it's impossible to get the corners straight. It's already the 4th screen height that I try, and I even tried using spacers as suggested. 

My level is telling me that the screen is straight from all angles, and yet the image isn't. 

I have tried projecting on a different wall and had no trouble getting the image properly aligned by just moving the projector, so it's definitely no an issue with the P2 nor a lack of hand-eye coordination from my side! 

Other than trying to hang the screen from the ceiling, I don't see an easy way out of this...


----------



## technomaget

Spekuloos said:


> I've been trying dynamic black on setting 1 a lot, and I really don't like it. If the content switches between dark and bright (or less dark) scenes a lot, you can really see dynamic black kicking in mid-scene very often, which is really annoying. It's a shame the changes aren't more seamless...
> 
> I've also given up on aligning the image without using the geometrical correction. My wall is too wobly, and even with the screen mounted where it should be it's impossible to get the corners straight. It's already the 4th screen height that I try, and I even tried using spacers as suggested.
> 
> My level is telling me that the screen is straight from all angles, and yet the image isn't.
> 
> I have tried projecting on a different wall and had no trouble getting the image properly aligned by just moving the projector, so it's definitely no an issue with the P2 nor a lack of hand-eye coordination from my side!
> 
> Other than trying to hang the screen from the ceiling, I don't see an easy way out of this...


I'm going to be getting my screen (Grandview Dinamique 120") and projector (Cinemax P2) soon and I'm curious how noticeable geometric correction will be. I will do everything in my power to avoid it, but if I need to use it, will it even be noticeable if we're talking about a fine adjustment?


----------



## technomaget

diggumsmax said:


> I can't speak highly enough about the Grandview. It's priced right and they have really good quality control. I will say I've seen some other UST screens that are easier to assemble but once you get it up it looks great
> 
> This is with all lights on. It will obviously look much better in the dark but you can see how good of a job it does it rejecting light. Please note that the screen was slightly off-level and there were some minor creases in the bottom left that had been corrected when this video was taken. There was also a pretty big price drop. I got the 100-in but I already got the 110 if it was priced like it is today. Plus they're one of the few that actually make 110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New video by Josh Fisher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing the video! Can you comment on the minor creases? I'm no screen installing expert, so I want to avoid making mistakes. If there are any screen installation tips you can share, I'd be eternally grateful!


----------



## NymnNymn

For SDR use I‘ve actually switched from Dynamic Black 1 to having it set at 60%. In my completely darkened basement home theatre room this projector is just crazy bright. With that setting in the Reference mode I find it excellent. I’m going to experiment a little bit more with HDR. I just haven’t watched enough contact with that.


----------



## technomaget

NymnNymn said:


> For SDR use I‘ve actually switched from Dynamic Black 1 to having it set at 60%. In my completely darkened basement home theatre room this projector is just crazy bright. With that setting in the Reference mode I find it excellent. I’m going to experiment a little bit more with HDR. I just haven’t watched enough contact with that.


The reviewer at ProjectorCentral posted calibration settings specifically for SDR bright and dark settings. I also will have limited light (if any) most of the time so I'll be using his SDR dark settings most of the time to start with. I believe he mentioned that he tried Dynamic Black, but found it was just better to keep it off.


----------



## NymnNymn

Just watched Kingsman through Apple TV 4K. HDR was outstanding!! Had it set to Dynamic Black 1 and it was seamless. Never noticed any ‘light changing’ effects.


----------



## Bill97Z

Got my grandview dynamique screen installed (with VAVA UST). It made a huge difference vs projecting on a gray wall (which I was already happy with). Really gives the projector a big screen TV feel and look. The screen took 5-6 hours to build and hang. The material had no creases or wrinkles and the finished product is very sturdy and high quality. The mounting brackets offer micro adjustment on height which is really nice so you don't have to make new holes if you miss the mark.
I mounted mine 1" higher than I needed and pulled the projector out so the bottom lined up. Note if you mount it to low you are screwed unless you can lower the projector. At that point the rest of the image was slightly too big for the screen only by like 1" on the sides and top. I used keystone correction to pull it in and fit perfectly. Videos of the screen in action below.









IMG_6767.MOV







drive.google.com





Darkroom / Lightroom Comparison









IMG_6771.MOV







drive.google.com





Note, video compression blurred the image, in real life the image is tack sharp.


----------



## 3sprit

Which model is it?


----------



## DunMunro

A P2 infomercial:


----------



## NymnNymn

Anyone else using the P2 in a dedicated theatre room? I’m considering a simple matte gray screen because I find this thing still incredibly bright.


----------



## technomaget

NymnNymn said:


> Anyone else using the P2 in a dedicated theatre room? I’m considering a simple matte gray screen because I find this thing still incredibly bright.


I plan to use the P2 in a dark room most of the time and I'm getting the GrandView dinamique 120" screen. ProjectorCentral had calibration settings for dark rooms (one for HDR and one for SDR) so once I get it set up, I'll see how bright the dark room settings are and post here.


----------



## Jaholibop

So I just installed my P2, updated the firmware. I hooked up a Roku ultra to hdmi2. Using what I believe is an Ethernet hdmi cable. When I tried to set the Roku to anything above 1080P I got what looked like a “insert cable” symbol on the screen. What did I do stupid?


----------



## Bill97Z

3sprit said:


> Which model is it?


Grandview Dynamique


----------



## 3sprit

Bill97Z said:


> Grandview Dynamique


 Gain 0.4?


----------



## Bill97Z

3sprit said:


> Gain 0.4?


yes, but it looks no different than elite CLR gain 0.6, and almost the the same as CLR3 material which is 0.8. I tested samples of each.


----------



## Jaholibop

Jaholibop said:


> So I just installed my P2, updated the firmware. I hooked up a Roku ultra to hdmi2. Using what I believe is an Ethernet hdmi cable. When I tried to set the Roku to anything above 1080P I got what looked like a “insert cable” symbol on the screen. What did I do stupid?


Changed hdmi cables, worked like a charm.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Bill97Z said:


> yes, but it looks no different than elite CLR gain 0.6, and almost the the same as CLR3 material which is 0.8. I tested samples of each.


I've heard this before but not sure how that's possible since 0.8 gain should be twice as bright and double the foot Lambert's nits etc...as 0.4. Maybe it's our eyes adjusting to the also halved black levels? I have almost wanted a screen sample last so I could see it with my own eyes 👀.

I experienced something similar when I compared a 1.0 matte white screen to my 0.8 PET Crystal XY CLR Screen and noticed that the whites looked brighter on the 0.8 screen so maybe it's the same cause and effect that you're seeing.


----------



## Bill97Z

THe Grandview is a 0.6 in reality. Even the dealer I bought it from doesn't understand why they call it a 0.4....they tested it in detail compared to 0.6 screen and it was same. The 0.8 gain screen was only slightly brighter in very bright scenes and had worse ambient light rejection and worse black levels. I wouldn't recommend the 0.8 gain screen unless you have a dark room or it is the CLR4 material which wasn't bad all around.











Casey_Bryson said:


> I've heard this before but not sure how that's possible since 0.8 gain should be twice as bright and double the foot Lambert's nits etc...as 0.4. Maybe it's our eyes adjusting to the also halved black levels? I have almost wanted a screen sample last so I could see it with my own eyes 👀.
> 
> I experienced something similar when I compared a 1.0 matte white screen to my 0.8 PET Crystal XY CLR Screen and noticed that the whites looked brighter on the 0.8 screen so maybe it's the same cause and effect that you're seeing.


----------



## ReaperZ

Hi all,

Can someone tell me how to update the firmware on the P2 ? I had a look and its running the following, but couldnt find any options to check for updates on the device, or manual update files on the optoma site
System : C07
MCU : C06
DDP : C02

I'm also having issues where Tapcast refuses to connect from my Samsung s10+  The youtube app doesn't work on the P2 ... basicially the software side of it is total garbage. Guess I'll need an nvndia shield pro or something


----------



## RedHotFuzz

When does this model get an "official owners thread"?

I need some help determining vertical distance from projector to screen. I do not yet own this projector but I'm trying to design some furniture to accommodate it. The Optoma website has a handy screen calculator tool, but the vertical-distance-to-screen measurement is not clear. At a 120" screen size, it should be at 14.1" from the screen, measured to the back edge of the projector unit to the bottom edge of the screen. Simple enough.

However, the vertical distance to bottom of screen, shown as 14.12", is not clear, as I don't know what I'm measuring from. Clearly not from the top of the unit, which would have been the more customer-friendly dimension to provide. Instead it appears it's measured from the projector lens itself (see horizontal dotted blue line in the image below). But I can't find any specs that show the depth of this point from the top of the unit. What I need to know is how many inches from the top of the projector housing to the bottom of the screen. Can anyone provide me with this info? Thanks!


----------



## technomaget

I'm actually in the process of setting up the projector on temporary stand. Here's what my calculations show so far. Apparently, row 2 can change somewhat although 14 seems to be the number everyone is using. I will set up my projector and then measure the distance and post it here.


height of screen (from bottom of screen)59.00​height of bottom of screen from projector14.00​11​16​RangeHeight of projector5.25​Height from bottom of projector to top of screen78.25​Height of ceiling94.00​Maximum Height of stand15.75​


----------



## Jaholibop

My P2 temporary setup on a 120” Silver Ticket screen. YouTube in 4K HDR is spectacular. Screen isn’t aligned quite yet, the app kept telling me “failed.”


----------



## David Orr

A couple of questions for this group: 1. Furniture, we are looking into Salamander Designs, anyone have any experience? Or what furniture would you recommend? 2. HDR settings?


----------



## technomaget

I don't know if anyone has had this problem, but I am simply unable to change the brightness, contrast, sharpness, color or tint in any of the modes (e.g. reference, cinema). These settings are always grayed out no matter what I try. Any ideas what's going on here?


----------



## ProjectionHead

David Orr said:


> A couple of questions for this group: 1. Furniture, we are looking into Salamander Designs, anyone have any experience? Or what furniture would you recommend? 2. HDR settings?


The Salamander credenzas are custom built to house the specific UST. If you are looking for a simple and sleek solution (albeit not inexpensive) then I would recommend the Salamander cabinet. We have sold several without any customer complaints or returns.

There is also another company AegisAV who makes a similar product that may be worth checking out as well.

We've had several customers share photos with us of the credenzas that they have made themselves or had custom made and some of them are much more "my" style than the really modern looking Salamander/Aegis but that is just a matter of taste.


----------



## ProjectionHead

technomaget said:


> I'm actually in the process of setting up the projector on temporary stand. Here's what my calculations show so far. Apparently, row 2 can change somewhat although 14 seems to be the number everyone is using. I will set up my projector and then measure the distance and post it here.
> 
> 
> height of screen (from bottom of screen)59.00​height of bottom of screen from projector14.00​11​16​RangeHeight of projector5.25​Height from bottom of projector to top of screen78.25​Height of ceiling94.00​Maximum Height of stand15.75​


Yes, there is a variance in the "offset" (row 2). It should be close to 14" but can vary between 11" and 16" based on manufacturing variances. On all the units that I have tested it has been pretty consistent but per Optoma there is a range it could fall within.


----------



## David Orr

ProjectionHead said:


> AegisAV who makes a similar product that may be worth checking out as well.


Do they have a marketing website I could check out? Seems like their website's pretty bare bones.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

David Orr said:


> A couple of questions for this group: 1. Furniture, we are looking into Salamander Designs, anyone have any experience? Or what furniture would you recommend? 2. HDR settings?


Furniture setup for these UST projectors really is a PITA. The dinguses at these projector companies could really make our lives easier by adding a couple of speaker posts and allowing passive override of the onboard speakers to use as a center channel in a real 5.1/7.1 setup. Otherwise we have to figure out how to fit a center speaker into the mix, with a projector low to the floor and extended 2-3 feet from the front wall. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Spekuloos

Hi guys,

As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.

I know for a fact that it's not a P2 issue since I manage a perfectly aligned 120" image in my bedroom's wall. But in the living room it's just impossible. So I'm stuck with 100+ms of input lag 

I have also tested Dynamic Black in setting 1extensively, and it is really unusable due to how visible it is when it kicks in. I even see the pumping when the subtitles kick in during a dark scene, although this happens very rarely. I think the added luminosity from the subtitles makes it turn off, and then once the subtitles disappear DB kicks in again (my kids still need subtitles btw). I'm not sure why some people don't notice it, but it really ruins the experience for me. So it's always off.

Would I still get the P2 knowing this? Well, it would have made my decision harder to be honest, and I would probably have leaned more towards the Epson LS500. But despite not being able to use DB I'm really happy with the image quality and with how super quiet it is. It's become a great living room addition, everyone is thoroughly enjoying it, and guests are wowed at the image size and picture quality.

By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.

Actually, adjusting the screen height is the most painful thing about it if you have a fixed screen that doesn't allow for some flexibility (as is the case with my Hivilux, which I really do not recommend).


----------



## David Orr

Spekuloos said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.
> 
> By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.


Highly recommend the Grandview Dynamique screen line. Pairs really well with the projector. In regards to furniture, for now, I'm just using a cheap console from wayfair. It's not very nice, and I don't plan on keeping it forever, just until I find something better. I'll probably have to remount the screen, but that's not a big deal. Really disappointed with the furniture choices out there.


----------



## technomaget

Spekuloos said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.
> 
> I know for a fact that it's not a P2 issue since I manage a perfectly aligned 120" image in my bedroom's wall. But in the living room it's just impossible. So I'm stuck with 100+ms of input lag
> 
> I have also tested Dynamic Black in setting 1extensively, and it is really unusable due to how visible it is when it kicks in. I even see the pumping when the subtitles kick in during a dark scene, although this happens very rarely. I think the added luminosity from the subtitles makes it turn off, and then once the subtitles disappear DB kicks in again (my kids still need subtitles btw). I'm not sure why some people don't notice it, but it really ruins the experience for me. So it's always off.
> 
> Would I still get the P2 knowing this? Well, it would have made my decision harder to be honest, and I would probably have leaned more towards the Epson LS500. But despite not being able to use DB I'm really happy with the image quality and with how super quiet it is. It's become a great living room addition, everyone is thoroughly enjoying it, and guests are wowed at the image size and picture quality.
> 
> By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.
> 
> Actually, adjusting the screen height is the most painful thing about it if you have a fixed screen that doesn't allow for some flexibility (as is the case with my Hivilux, which I really do not recommend).


I have a temporary stand setup, which is 18.5" high and I was able to get the projector to be reasonably centered within the screen, but there are approximately 1" to 1.5" black borders around the projector and I can't get rid of the bottom border by lowering the projector so it means I need to get a 17" or lower stand, which was my expectation anyway. I have to say that the black bands serve almost as a decorate frame (which I didn't install on my GrandView because I gave up after 2 hours trying to make the pieces fit and it looks perfectly fine to my wife and me without the decorative frame). I was able to get rid of the "trapezoid" effect almost entirely and that was my main intent. I didn't feel the need to use geometric correction at all at this point. We'll see how close I get with the permanent stand we get.

Regarding Dynamic Black, we found it unwatchable and switched back to the Brightness 100% setting. The screen would lighten and darken in an unnatural manner and when darkened, the red tint of the faces would increase. I'm using the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral.com and am quite happy with them so far.

The only problem I'm left with is that occassionally when starting a new Blu Ray Disc, the image would be brighter on the right side of the screen compared to the left side and this break is exactly in the middle of the screen (almost as if there's a vertical line in the exact middle of the screen). Then somehow, by fiddling with the 3D settings (and I'm not watching 3D), it would correct itself and be fine for the entire viewing. I don't know if this is the HDMI cable (which I can't determine if it's ultra-fast or not) or the EDID 1.4 setting (I can't seem to get the 2.0 setting to work, which may be an indicator of the cable).


----------



## ReaperZ

@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim


----------



## technomaget

ReaperZ said:


> @technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?
> 
> I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim


Yes, it saves the settings for each Display Mode (i.e. Reference, Cinema, HDR). I just watched the Avatar Blu Ray with the Dark Room SDR settings and it was absolutely stunning; and this was a blu-ray, not a 4k blu-ray. I did watch it on the Grandview UST 120" screen in a dark room, so I think the screen will help a lot. Regarding the settings, I can't really explain why the Bright Room SDR is much lower, so the only thing I can think of is that the Cinema mode is much brighter to begin with so you're comparing apples to oranges when switching modes. I have not tried the Bright Room SDR mode yet, but I may have an opportunity to do that tomorrow, but I have to say that the projector is very bright on the UST screen, even with some ambient light coming in.


----------



## Volkman

Hi.
Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?


----------



## technomaget

Volkman said:


> Hi.
> Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
> Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?


That's weird. I don't even see that combination of lights in the manual. The closest is fan failed with red flashing power and red flashing temp, but there's nothing listed for red flashing Lamp.

Did you try unplugging it completely, waiting 30 seconds and then replugging it?


----------



## Spekuloos

technomaget said:


> I have a temporary stand setup, which is 18.5" high and I was able to get the projector to be reasonably centered within the screen, but there are approximately 1" to 1.5" black borders around the projector and I can't get rid of the bottom border by lowering the projector so it means I need to get a 17" or lower stand, which was my expectation anyway. I have to say that the black bands serve almost as a decorate frame (which I didn't install on my GrandView because I gave up after 2 hours trying to make the pieces fit and it looks perfectly fine to my wife and me without the decorative frame). I was able to get rid of the "trapezoid" effect almost entirely and that was my main intent. I didn't feel the need to use geometric correction at all at this point. We'll see how close I get with the permanent stand we get.
> 
> Regarding Dynamic Black, we found it unwatchable and switched back to the Brightness 100% setting. The screen would lighten and darken in an unnatural manner and when darkened, the red tint of the faces would increase. I'm using the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral.com and am quite happy with them so far.
> 
> The only problem I'm left with is that occassionally when starting a new Blu Ray Disc, the image would be brighter on the right side of the screen compared to the left side and this break is exactly in the middle of the screen (almost as if there's a vertical line in the exact middle of the screen). Then somehow, by fiddling with the 3D settings (and I'm not watching 3D), it would correct itself and be fine for the entire viewing. I don't know if this is the HDMI cable (which I can't determine if it's ultra-fast or not) or the EDID 1.4 setting (I can't seem to get the 2.0 setting to work, which may be an indicator of the cable).


Thanks for confirming the increase in red tint using DB! I thought I was going crazy  

I would definitely try a different HDMI cable to rule that out. 

I haven't tried any SDR content for now, but cinema + gamma at 2.4 + power at 100% has been my favorite combo so far for HDR movies in a darkish setting (my living room walls and ceiling are different tones of white so I have a lot of light reflected everywhere even with the lamps off). I also reduced the sharpness to 5. The rest of the settings are unchanged. 

By the way, totally unrelated but my Denon AVR has been giving me tons of issues with Spotify Connect since installing the P2. It worked fine with my TV, but now 98% of the time that I launch Spotify on my phone the AVR turns on but there is no sound from the speakers. It's probably ARC related, I just haven't figured out how.


----------



## David Orr

I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.



Volkman said:


> Hi.
> Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
> Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?


----------



## technomaget

Spekuloos said:


> Thanks for confirming the increase in red tint using DB! I thought I was going crazy
> 
> I would definitely try a different HDMI cable to rule that out.
> 
> I haven't tried any SDR content for now, but cinema + gamma at 2.4 + power at 100% has been my favorite combo so far for HDR movies in a darkish setting (my living room walls and ceiling are different tones of white so I have a lot of light reflected everywhere even with the lamps off). I also reduced the sharpness to 5. The rest of the settings are unchanged.
> 
> By the way, totally unrelated but my Denon AVR has been giving me tons of issues with Spotify Connect since installing the P2. It worked fine with my TV, but now 98% of the time that I launch Spotify on my phone the AVR turns on but there is no sound from the speakers. It's probably ARC related, I just haven't figured out how.


Yes, I figured it was the cable and replaced it with my older thicker gold HDMI cable and the EDID 2.0 setting worked with no problem and I was able to set the HDR settings.


----------



## technomaget

ReaperZ said:


> @technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?
> 
> I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim





ReaperZ said:


> @technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?
> 
> I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim


I think I read somewhere that the P2 does have trouble saving settings. I noticed that today when I switched to the Cinema mode and it didn't retain the settings I set. I'll see if it retains the Reference settings I set before when I return to that later when it gets dark.


----------



## Volkman

David Orr said:


> I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.


Thanks David, you are right. Updated successfuly after 30 minutes waiting. 
Optoma guys should definitely update the P2 manual with this LED blinking state.


----------



## NymnNymn

No settings issues here. Everything I‘ve set is there each time I turn it on.


----------



## ProjectionHead

David Orr said:


> Do they have a marketing website I could check out? Seems like their website's pretty bare bones.


wow, they used to have a pretty good website. I have no idea what's going on with it right now.
www.aegisav.com


----------



## ProjectionHead

David Orr said:


> I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.


Yeah, there absolutely should have been an on screen warning.


----------



## Bill97Z

It shouldn't be dim. Make sure you don't have the screen material upside down.



ReaperZ said:


> @technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?
> 
> I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim


----------



## mmedeir

Hey guys, I'm finding it nearly impossible to focus the upper corners simultaneously. If i get one in focus the other goes out of focus. Would tilting the screen downward slightly, help with this? We are shooting onto a 120" CLR screen. The image looks very crisp except for one of the upper corners, depending on which one is not in focus. Any tips? I'm ready to send the unit back for a replacement.


----------



## Spekuloos

Michael Medeiros said:


> Hey guys, I'm finding it nearly impossible to focus the upper corners simultaneously. If i get one in focus the other goes out of focus. Would tilting the screen downward slightly, help with this? We are shooting onto a 120" CLR screen. The image looks very crisp except for one of the upper corners, depending on which one is not in focus. Any tips? I'm ready to send the unit back for a replacement.


Hi Michael, I have the same thing and from what I could read it's relatively common. I seem to recall the Projector Central review also mentioning a slight loss of focus at the corners.

In my case the right upper corner is impossible to get 100% in focus, however since it's a relatively small area and the difference in focus isn't big, during actual viewing it is never disturbing (even when I tried looking for it).

I am sitting at almost 4m from the screen though, so if you are considerably closer it might be more visible (I guess?).

Regarding tilting the screen, I have tried doing that to fix some other issues I encountered and I didn't find it helpful.


----------



## mmedeir

Spekuloos said:


> Hi Michael, I have the same thing and from what I could read it's relatively common. I seem to recall the Projector Central review also mentioning a slight loss of focus at the corners.
> 
> In my case the right upper corner is impossible to get 100% in focus, however since it's a relatively small area and the difference in focus isn't big, during actual viewing it is never disturbing (even when I tried looking for it).
> 
> I am sitting at almost 4m from the screen though, so if you are considerably closer it might be more visible (I guess?).
> 
> Regarding tilting the screen, I have tried doing that to fix some other issues I encountered and I didn't find it helpful.


Hey thanks for the info, would you mind positing a picture of your geometric correction screen? With the green grid? That is where we can really see the distortion. I'm wondering if ours is worse than normal. It's blurry to the point it ruins the picture in the area.


----------



## Spekuloos

Michael Medeiros said:


> Hey thanks for the info, would you mind positing a picture of your geometric correction screen? With the green grid? That is where we can really see the distortion. I'm wondering if ours is worse than normal. It's blurry to the point it ruins the picture in the area.



















Here you go, not sure how well it shows in the pictures.


----------



## NymnNymn

And that’s with focus adjustment?


----------



## technomaget

Michael Medeiros said:


> Hey thanks for the info, would you mind positing a picture of your geometric correction screen? With the green grid? That is where we can really see the distortion. I'm wondering if ours is worse than normal. It's blurry to the point it ruins the picture in the area.


The only thing I can say on this topic as that I have not noticed this at all in my viewing so far. I will look at the corners in the next movie I watch today and see if I notice any loss of focus in the corners at all.


----------



## Spekuloos

NymnNymn said:


> And that’s with focus adjustment?


Yes. If the upper left corner is focused, the upper right corner is out of focus, and vice versa. 

It's not really noticeable when watching something, though, since it's on the edge of the image.


----------



## Spekuloos

technomaget said:


> The only thing I can say on this topic as that I have not noticed this at all in my viewing so far. I will look at the corners in the next movie I watch today and see if I notice any loss of focus in the corners at all.


Try using the green grid. It's usually not noticeable when viewing a movie.


----------



## mmedeir

Spekuloos said:


> View attachment 3073153
> View attachment 3073155
> 
> 
> Here you go, not sure how well it shows in the pictures.


Thanks for posting, our looks WAY worse than this. I honestly cant even tell yours is out of focus.


----------



## technomaget

I didn't even do any focus adjustment as the main menu screen, and all the movies so far, looks sharp out of the box. I'm afraid I may make things worse by trying to change the focus.


----------



## technomaget

With the grid, I see a slight loss of focus on the top right corner. I tried to adjust the focus by clicking to the right X number of items, but I didn't see any changes and to not make things worse, I just clicked on the left on the remote X number of times to set things back. I don't see any indication that focus is even changing.


----------



## Spekuloos

I received the prompt for installing firmware C07. It did explain the light patterns and that the device would remain unresponsive for 30 minutes, however I couldn't see any explanation regarding what it actually does. 

Would anyone know what the firmware is supposed to fix/improve?

What I did notice is that the update ruined my geometry and focus. Did anyone else have this? Basically the image is now slightly lower and more towards the right than what it was, and I lost a lot of focus on the upper right corner. Also the two lower corners (left and right) are now bending towards the inside, and I can't fix it using the geometrical correction.


----------



## MDesigns

Spekuloos said:


> I received the prompt for installing firmware C07. It did explain the light patterns and that the device would remain unresponsive for 30 minutes, however I couldn't see any explanation regarding what it actually does.
> 
> Would anyone know what the firmware is supposed to fix/improve?
> 
> What I did notice is that the update ruined my geometry and focus. Did anyone else have this? Basically the image is now slightly lower and more towards the right than what it was, and I lost a lot of focus on the upper right corner. Also the two lower corners (left and right) are now bending towards the inside, and I can't fix it using the geometrical correction.


Probably someone bumped the projector? Sounds like something an update cannot do.


----------



## Grazed

I've been searching around trying to see if anyone with a P2 has the same issue I am having with my unit which is the "coil whine/actuator buzzing" sound. I purchased my P2 brand new from amazon and since the very first boot up it makes the continuous buzzing noise which is audible even when content is playing. The only way I have managed to get it to stop is to turn on Game Mode which makes the image quality worse by dropping it to what seems like 1080p so it is not something I am willing to live with. Is this normal for these projectors? Curious if I should just try to get another unit or move to another UST projector.


----------



## David Orr

Grazed said:


> I've been searching around trying to see if anyone with a P2 has the same issue I am having with my unit which is the "coil whine/actuator buzzing" sound. I purchased my P2 brand new from amazon and since the very first boot up it makes the continuous buzzing noise which is audible even when content is playing. The only way I have managed to get it to stop is to turn on Game Mode which makes the image quality worse by dropping it to what seems like 1080p so it is not something I am willing to live with. Is this normal for these projectors? Curious if I should just try to get another unit or move to another UST projector.


Not normal for the unit. Check the "Altitude setting." Make sure that's set to off. These units run incredibly quiet. Every once in awhile I'll boot up the device and the fan will go nuts, but a simple reboot removes the problem. If nothing else, I'd get a new unit as that isn't normal.


----------



## Spekuloos

MDesigns said:


> Probably someone bumped the projector? Sounds like something an update cannot do.


That would have been my first guess but I left the unit updating over night and I was the first one up, so I'm pretty sure no one bumped the protector. I also checked the screen and it didn't move. 

In any case I'm not sure it would explain why the two bottom corners were bent inwards. 

Still curious as to what firmware C07 brings, though. I couldn't find any information on Optoma's website.


----------



## NymnNymn

The P1 I had briefly made that actuator buzz, but not my P2. It was an annoying sound for sure in quiet scenes.


----------



## ilmousta

Grazed said:


> The only way I have managed to get it to stop is to turn on Game Mode which makes the image quality worse by dropping it to what seems like 1080p so it is not something I am willing to live with.


I was about to post for the first time just for this issue, then I found out I wasn't the only one. I first noticed this when playing on my Nintendo Switch, picture seemed horrendous with Gaming Mode on. Then I found out that that's the way the mode is, regardless of the type of input, as it is even being shown like that even when projecting the test pattern.

I really hope they fix "Gaming" Mode in a near-future firmware update, cause the way the image is currenty being displayed is making me more dissapointed as well as frustrated with each passing day. Because in case this isn't fixable, under no circumstances should the word "gaming" be present in the projector's product page or being advertised as having such capabilities.

Off:









On:









Off:









On:









Off:









On:









Photos are taken close to the projection screen so issue can be undoubtedly seen, but believe me, even from a distance it's truly awful.


----------



## Spekuloos

ilmousta said:


> I was about to post for the first time just for this issue, then I found out I wasn't the only one. I first noticed this when playing on my Nintendo Switch, picture seemed horrendous with Gaming Mode on. Then I found out that that's the way the mode is, regardless of the type of input, as it is even being shown like that even when projecting the test pattern.
> 
> I really hope they fix "Gaming" Mode in a near-future firmware update, cause the way the image is currenty being displayed is making me more dissapointed as well as frustrated with each passing day. Because in case this isn't fixable, under no circumstances should the word "gaming" be present in the projector's product page or being advertised as having such capabilities.
> 
> Off:
> View attachment 3074504
> 
> 
> On:
> View attachment 3074505
> 
> 
> Off:
> View attachment 3074506
> 
> 
> On:
> View attachment 3074507
> 
> 
> Off:
> View attachment 3074508
> 
> 
> On:
> View attachment 3074509
> 
> 
> Photos are taken close to the projection screen so issue can be undoubtedly seen, but believe me, even from a distance it's truly awful.


My experience is exactly the same as yours, the image quality of gaming mode is atrocious even from 4m away (120" screen). 

Coupled with the fact that it deactivates the geometrical correction, it makes it totally useless for me.


----------



## namtech

Gaming Mode on P1 had way too high sharpening active, maybe its the same with P2?
Switch looked fine with sharpening of +3 - maybe +4 but everything else looked very ugly - like screenshots above.

Or to be more detailed. Default Gaming Mode picture settings in general were crap. Gamma wrong, color set to cool. etc, washed out colors.
With a bit of tuning everything was fine.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

I'd be grateful if a P2 owner could provide me with the measurement from the edge of the lens recess to the back of the case as shown by the red arrow. I'm trying to design a furniture layout before I make any actual purchases, and Optoma told me they couldn't provide me with any dimensional/angle info for the beam. I'm trying to figure out how I can mount a center channel above the projector rather than having it sit under the projector at floor level so I'll have to find a speaker with suitable dimensions to not obstruct the beam. Thanks!


----------



## Spekuloos

RedHotFuzz said:


> I'd be grateful if a P2 owner could provide me with the measurement from the edge of the lens recess to the back of the case as shown by the red arrow. I'm trying to design a furniture layout before I make any actual purchases, and Optoma told me they couldn't provide me with any dimensional/angle info for the beam. I'm trying to figure out how I can mount a center channel above the projector rather than having it sit under the projector at floor level so I'll have to find a speaker with suitable dimensions to not obstruct the beam. Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 3075024


Heya, I just measured approximately 16cm.

I have my center channel above the P2, between the P2 and the wall, and it's not in the way of the image (120" screen though).


----------



## RedHotFuzz

Spekuloos said:


> Heya, I just measured approximately 16cm.
> 
> I have my center channel above the P2, between the P2 and the wall, and it's not in the way of the image (120" screen though).


Thanks! I will also be doing a 120” screen. Which center channel are you using?


----------



## Spekuloos

RedHotFuzz said:


> Thanks! I will also be doing a 120” screen. Which center channel are you using?


I'm using a Focal CC700v. Attached a picture of how it's sitting on its temporary stand. 

I don't remember how much I could raise it before it would start getting in the way of the image, but I think it wasn't much higher than that. The speaker is quite high though.


----------



## ilmousta

namtech said:


> Gaming Mode on P1 had way too high sharpening active, maybe its the same with P2?
> Switch looked fine with sharpening of +3 - maybe +4 but everything else looked very ugly - like screenshots above.


Thank you for this - it really does help make the image produced bearable. @Grazed, make sure to test it out as well. For me, I'd say that the sweet spot lies at +3. Upon extensive testing today, I found out that the image looks bad with Gaming Mode on, when the initial source is 1080p. Doesn't look that bad when the initial source is 4k.

Random info I found out - the projector stores any settings you change while in Gaming Mode, per type of pixel format. Eg if Nintendo Switch is my input source, and I toggle of Gaming Mode, sharpening +3 (and possibly other changed settings) kicks in. Switch is RGB. If I toogle it on from my HTPC, which is currently 4:2:2, the respective settings I have set for 4:2:2 kick in. Could replicate it again as well.



Spekuloos said:


> Coupled with the fact that it deactivates the geometrical correction, it makes it totally useless for me.


Sorry - that sucks big time. Gaming Mode toggled off makes most game categories unplayable. They really should have been more clear that turning it on disables even the manual geometrical correction, and not that it just disables the "SmartFIT" feature and PureMotion.



RedHotFuzz said:


> I'd be grateful if a P2 owner could provide me with the measurement from the edge of the lens recess to the back of the case as shown by the red arrow. I'm trying to design a furniture layout before I make any actual purchases, and Optoma told me they couldn't provide me with any dimensional/angle info for the beam. I'm trying to figure out how I can mount a center channel above the projector rather than having it sit under the projector at floor level so I'll have to find a speaker with suitable dimensions to not obstruct the beam. Thanks!





Spekuloos said:


> Heya, I just measured approximately 16cm.


I would add just in case that while the distance you asked for may be 16cm, as correctly pointed out by @Spekuloos, from arrow's starting point till completely back of projector is 17,5cm - mind the pointy part at it's middle. Will the furniture go all the way back to the wall? If yes, I don't think you'll have any issue with any normal size of a center channel, as projector needs quite a lot a space far from the screen to project eg 120'', as well as height from bottom of projector to lower side of screen.


----------



## Friemeltje

I'm not sure if I'm good here, but i have a question that you might already know the answer to!

I just bought a cinemax p2 and I'm very happy with the huge thing!
Also I bought 2 DLP HI-Shock 3d glasses for some 3D action!
The app plex (through 1gb network) doesn't support 3d on its own, it needs to be forced into 3D or the beamer needs to be set to 3D <- issue there is that the movie (3D SBS/OU) cant be forced? and the beamers 3D menu stays grey/unusable.


I don't have a blu-ray player, ps4 or xbox one.
All i have is a pretty ok PC (AMD 3700, 32gb mem, 500gb m2, RTX 2060 super (HDMI 2.0, DP)
I downloaded VLC, Plex(server and client) and what ever 3D program i could find...
Non of them i had luck with until i found a way to force the SBS/OU option in Kodi!
3D works, but somehow it's presented wrong, SBS would be just 2x 2D, OU would be also 2x 2D, then Interlaced gives me the 3D but in a SBS/OU way that makes my head spin.

Now i have an 11 year old laptop with a NVIDIA video card and then with Kodi i get the option to use "hardware based" this gives me the same weird SBS/OU view

I emailed Optoma, and they responded that the beamer is 3D capable but even with the specs of my PC they had no clue if my PC was capable of 3D...some knowledge they have....

Also tried a raspberry PI 4b, 2D works great over network/Kodi no 3D support though. (Would Nvidia shield work?)


Did anyone tried to play a fully 3d blu-ray ISO from a PC and succeeded or do i need a dedicated device?


/Edit/
Can i sideload Kodi and how?
/Edit/


----------



## Grazed

David Orr said:


> Not normal for the unit. Check the "Altitude setting." Make sure that's set to off. These units run incredibly quiet. Every once in awhile I'll boot up the device and the fan will go nuts, but a simple reboot removes the problem. If nothing else, I'd get a new unit as that isn't normal.


I just got my second Optoma P2 from amazon and it does not have the buzzing sound that my first unit had. Its a breath of fresh air since that noise was driving me insane. Glad to know it was just a defective unit.


----------



## namtech

Grazed said:


> I just got my second Optoma P2 from amazon and it does not have the buzzing sound that my first unit had. Its a breath of fresh air since that noise was driving me insane. Glad to know it was just a defective unit.


All newer UHZ65UST models seems to be affected by the buzzing - first gen production batches are fine tho. I hope your defective P2 (UHZ60UST) was just fluke ....
Optoma said about UHZ65UST buzzing that is inside "tolerance"...yeah right...


----------



## Monkd

Friemeltje said:


> I'm not sure if I'm good here, but i have a question that you might already know the answer to!
> 
> I just bought a cinemax p2 and I'm very happy with the huge thing!
> Also I bought 2 DLP HI-Shock 3d glasses for some 3D action!
> The app plex (through 1gb network) doesn't support 3d on its own, it needs to be forced into 3D or the beamer needs to be set to 3D <- issue there is that the movie (3D SBS/OU) cant be forced? and the beamers 3D menu stays grey/unusable.
> 
> 
> I don't have a blu-ray player, ps4 or xbox one.
> All i have is a pretty ok PC (AMD 3700, 32gb mem, 500gb m2, RTX 2060 super (HDMI 2.0, DP)
> I downloaded VLC, Plex(server and client) and what ever 3D program i could find...
> Non of them i had luck with until i found a way to force the SBS/OU option in Kodi!
> 3D works, but somehow it's presented wrong, SBS would be just 2x 2D, OU would be also 2x 2D, then Interlaced gives me the 3D but in a SBS/OU way that makes my head spin.
> 
> Now i have an 11 year old laptop with a NVIDIA video card and then with Kodi i get the option to use "hardware based" this gives me the same weird SBS/OU view
> 
> I emailed Optoma, and they responded that the beamer is 3D capable but even with the specs of my PC they had no clue if my PC was capable of 3D...some knowledge they have....
> 
> Also tried a raspberry PI 4b, 2D works great over network/Kodi no 3D support though. (Would Nvidia shield work?)
> 
> 
> Did anyone tried to play a fully 3d blu-ray ISO from a PC and succeeded or do i need a dedicated device?
> 
> 
> /Edit/
> Can i sideload Kodi and how?
> /Edit/


NVIDIA removed 3D TV features in their graphic cards some time ago.
I would suggest getting a dedicated media player such as NVIDIA SHIELD for viewing 3D contents, files. 
It also has KODI on android TV apps without even sideloading.


----------



## IanWatchman

technomaget said:


> The only problem I'm left with is that occassionally when starting a new Blu Ray Disc, the image would be brighter on the right side of the screen compared to the left side and this break is exactly in the middle of the screen (almost as if there's a vertical line in the exact middle of the screen). Then somehow, by fiddling with the 3D settings (and I'm not watching 3D), it would correct itself and be fine for the entire viewing. I don't know if this is the HDMI cable (which I can't determine if it's ultra-fast or not) or the EDID 1.4 setting (I can't seem to get the 2.0 setting to work, which may be an indicator of the cable).


I have the same issue with the right side being brighter than the left. I have not been able to resolve it. For some reason I cannot get into the 3D setting to fiddle with them.


----------



## ilmousta

Friemeltje said:


> /Edit/
> Can i sideload Kodi and how?
> /Edit/


Yes, and it's extremely easy. I'd say the easiest way would be to download the .apk from kodi.tv on your phone, and provided that you have set up TapCast, click on the "Upload AKP" icon (yeah, they mistitled the button) to upload the .apk to the projector.

It would be so damn awesome if P2 could actually output Atmos and HDR from it's apps. That way I personally wouldn't need to buy any other device as I intend to do, as I'd play anything straight from P2's Kodi. I'd create an SMB network and just throw any movie at it this way.

Regarding Atmos, unfortunately I've found the statement below to be plainly false :/










And regarding HDR, the native "Media" app is the only one that toggles the projector in HDR mode when HDR content is recognized (or even HLG only from media app + only from usb stick).

Generally it's a great projector, but I'd really like for them to be in contact with their customers more. Active reddit presence? An official Optoma forum? Something. Way too ideal, I know.


----------



## Movie78

Monkd said:


> NVIDIA removed 3D TV features in their graphic cards some time ago.
> I would suggest getting a dedicated media player such as NVIDIA SHIELD for viewing 3D contents, files.
> It also has KODI on android TV apps without even sideloading.


Nvidia shield doesn't support 3D frame packing.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rmf

Hi. Would like some pics or suggestions for cabinetry setup of PJ with center channel, Aerial Aoustics CC3, so pretty big speaker. Also, how do you disable the inboard speakers and set up for 5.1? Thanks.


----------



## Monkd

Movie78 said:


> Nvidia shield doesn't support 3D frame packing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


You are right. Here is a list of media player options for MKV, MVC playback with frame packing.


Kodi Media Player Options with 3D MVC & HD Audio



Shield does it half assed but I just like Shield.


----------



## Spekuloos

rmf said:


> Hi. Would like some pics or suggestions for cabinetry setup of PJ with center channel, Aerial Aoustics CC3, so pretty big speaker. Also, how do you disable the inboard speakers and set up for 5.1? Thanks.


Heya, to disable the P2's speaker and use your 5.1 system instead you just open the menu, go to sound settings and there is a button for that. 

The sound doesn't seem to be totally disabled since it still makes noise when turning on/off, but it's definitely disabled when playing content.


----------



## rmf

Spekuloos said:


> Heya, to disable the P2's speaker and use your 5.1 system instead you just open the menu, go to sound settings and there is a button for that.
> 
> The sound doesn't seem to be totally disabled since it still makes noise when turning on/off, but it's definitely disabled when playing content.


Thanks.


----------



## Spunky Noodle

Hey guys, first time here. I had this P2 for three months now, currently hook up with Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019 - no ALR just *BEHR* paint *Pencil Sketch* color grey wall eggshell on a 9 feet tall wall. P2 is calibrated with color maxed 50. I have no 5.1 system due I am living in an apartment - so it's just the 2.0 built-in soundbar + stereo jack to a standalone 200w Klipsh subwoofer. Works well and not as immersive as true 5.1 setup.

I am amazed and happy with this projector. Below photos are shot on my iphone 12 mini with accurate exposure what I see in real life so you get the idea of the image quality of this projector.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

Really bummed about no UST announcements from Optoma at CES. Was really hoping to see a black option.


----------



## rmf

What size is the image?


----------



## namtech

joined the P2 owners club yesterday, decided against the LSP7T for now and the LSP9T is still to expensive. Came from UHZ65UST, couldnt be happier for now.
Yes, P2 is not so bright as the UHZ65UST, but its operating noise is way lower and it doesnt have that bloody engine buzzing .-)


----------



## Monkd

namtech said:


> joined the P2 owners club yesterday, decided against the LSP7T for now and the LSP9T is still to expensive. Came from UHZ65UST, couldnt be happier for now.
> Yes, P2 is not so bright as the UHZ65UST, but its operating noise is way lower and it doesnt have that bloody engine buzzing .-)


Hey man, I saw your adventures here and AVforum for UHZ65UST. Sorry you had to go through all that. I am currently torn between P2 and UHZ65UST(Cinemax pro). Do they say all of the UHZ65UST have the same buzzing issues? How much difference does 3500 lumens make compared to 3000 lumens in your experience? Is there a huge difference because of the color wheel? I appreciate your input in advance, there are not that many comparisons between UHZ65UST and P2.


----------



## namtech

Monkd said:


> Hey man, I saw your adventures here and AVforum for UHZ65UST. Sorry you had to go through all that. I am currently torn between P2 and UHZ65UST(Cinemax pro). Do they say all of the UHZ65UST have the same buzzing issues? How much difference does 3500 lumens make compared to 3000 lumens in your experience? Is there a huge difference because of the color wheel? I appreciate your input in advance, there are not that many comparisons between UHZ65UST and P2.


No, not all UHZ65UST have the same buzzing issues, however it seems newer production units are potentially more often affected (based on my sample size and people in german hifi-forum.de also starting to compare db levels with some db measuring apps) - mind you, i had a super silent old batch unit and it got the buzzing after they replaced the engine to fix corner sharpness. So you may get a good unit, have some issues later, and your units becomes suddenly a loud one. Quality control as it bests. Nobody knows if the P2 will be affected by such quality degradation over time, could happen...

Anyway, lots of people are happy with theirs but the buzzing is, according to a comment from Optoma: "inside tolerance levels". Also if you have yours in a special enclosing or UST furniture, the buzzing may not be an issue at all. For me, it was CLEARLY audible sitting 3,5 - 4m away cutting right though the Fan noise. There was a user here who had buzzing with a P2, but as far as i have looked around on avforum, hifi-forum and here, that was the only incident of this kind and he replaced his and the new one was silent.

The lumen difference is definitely there. Is it enough to prefer the Pro over the 2? I don't think so, its like a "tad bit dimmer" in the lack for better words to describe it. However neither of them is particularly good during full sunlight/daytime - even with a CLR/ALR screen. Usable, yes. TV like - not in a million. Blacks will be grey-ish and colors appear washed out. No matter what unit unless you have a light controlled room. Lets not deviate at this point into OLED reflections in sunlight, other kind of problems.
In summary: If you have a CLR/ALR screen the experience difference between the two, for me, is negligible - and certainly doesnt outweight the benefits the P2 has over the Pro.

Colors especially greens and blues, are much more natural and look more nuanced. That i could even see without a side by side comparison just from remembering how P1 Pros picture looked. That was with factory settings on my P2, it is not calibrated yet. Mine has a slight RED bias however, so i need to some work here to tune it better.

Input Lag is noticeably better in Gaming mode. HDMI switch times are faster (already have an Hdfury Arcana in my picture chain but the Pro was a slugish like hell syncing the signal)
Fans are noticable more silent, even in HDR and Reference Mode.

Cons? Yes, give me a black P2 as i find the white chassis is unnecessarily reflecting light. Also its OS is still the same crap as on the P1/UHZ65UST - literally unusable.

All in all, based on my experience with Optoma and the P1 Pro (UHZ65UST) i would recommend all new buyers to buy either a P2 or look elsewhere / better wait for next generation. Is it an upgrade if you are an happy P1/P1 Pro User? no - more like mixture of side/up/downgrade. If you want a proper OS and Smart TV experience without investing into external players, go to Samsung, LG or Hisense - stay far away from Optoma .-)

EDIT 26/01/2020 - added Hisense to the list of UST with proper OS


----------



## ProjectionHead

RedHotFuzz said:


> Really bummed about no UST announcements from Optoma at CES. Was really hoping to see a black option.


I think that Optoma understands the demand for the black case. I wouldn't give up hope just yet.


----------



## namtech

ProjectionHead said:


> ....stay tuned.....


dont tease us too long. I am still inside the return window for my P2 .-)


----------



## bjanssen

namtech said:


> If you want a proper OS and Smart TV experience without investing into external players, go to Samsung or LG - stay far away from Optoma .-)


Or the Hisense, full 4k HDR android TV 👌


----------



## Monkd

namtech said:


> No, not all UHZ65UST have the same buzzing issues, however it seems newer production units are potentially more often affected (based on my sample size and people in german hifi-forum.de also starting to compare db levels with some db measuring apps) - mind you, i had a super silent old batch unit and it got the buzzing after they replaced the engine to fix corner sharpness. So you may get a good unit, have some issues later, and your units becomes suddenly a loud one. Quality control as it bests. Nobody knows if the P2 will be affected by such quality degradation over time, could happen...
> 
> Anyway, lots of people are happy with theirs but the buzzing is, according to a comment from Optoma: "inside tolerance levels". Also if you have yours in a special enclosing or UST furniture, the buzzing may not be an issue at all. For me, it was CLEARLY audible sitting 3,5 - 4m away cutting right though the Fan noise. There was a user here who had buzzing with a P2, but as far as i have looked around on avforum, hifi-forum and here, that was the only incident of this kind and he replaced his and the new one was silent.
> 
> The lumen difference is definitely there. Is it enough to prefer the Pro over the 2? I don't think so, its like a "tad bit dimmer" in the lack for better words to describe it. However neither of them is particularly good during full sunlight/daytime - even with a CLR/ALR screen. Usable, yes. TV like - not in a million. Blacks will be grey-ish and colors appear washed out. No matter what unit unless you have a light controlled room. Lets not deviate at this point into OLED reflections in sunlight, other kind of problems.
> In summary: If you have a CLR/ALR screen the experience difference between the two, for me, is negligible - and certainly doesnt outweight the benefits the P2 has over the Pro.
> 
> Colors especially greens and blues, are much more natural and look more nuanced. That i could even see without a side by side comparison just from remembering how P1 Pros picture looked. That was with factory settings on my P2, it is not calibrated yet. Mine has a slight RED bias however, so i need to some work here to tune it better.
> 
> Input Lag is noticeably better in Gaming mode. HDMI switch times are faster (already have an Hdfury Arcana in my picture chain but the Pro was a slugish like hell syncing the signal)
> Fans are noticable more silent, even in HDR and Reference Mode.
> 
> Cons? Yes, give me a black P2 as i find the white chassis is unnecessarily reflecting light. Also its OS is still the same crap as on the P1/UHZ65UST - literally unusable.
> 
> All in all, based on my experience with Optoma and the P1 Pro (UHZ65UST) i would recommend all new buyers to buy either a P2 or look elsewhere / better wait for next generation. Is it an upgrade if you are an happy P1/P1 Pro User? no - more like mixture of side/up/downgrade. If you want a proper OS and Smart TV experience without investing into external players, go to Samsung or LG - stay far away from Optoma .-)


Fantastic response! 
I really appreciate your input. 
As you mentioned, the general feeling from all the forums that P2 has somewhat better operation than P1/UHZ65UST. 
I have multiple media players such as NVIDIA shield so I would not be relying on the projector's own OS at this point. I did hear Samsung/LG has quite a refined OS. 

You have definitely helped me determine which way to go.
Thank you friend.


----------



## namtech

bjanssen said:


> Or the Hisense, full 4k HDR android TV 👌


the 100L5F? that is a shifter, not native 4k  but Android TV is definitely a plus.
Havent read much reviews of the Hisense yet, need to check it out in more detail.


----------



## bjanssen

namtech said:


> the 100L5F? that is a shifter, not native 4k


So is the Optoma...


----------



## namtech

bjanssen said:


> So is the Optoma...


yeah, i was just wondering because you wrote it like the Hisense is one. Nevermind, just misunderstood you .-)
Also AFAIK none of them, except the Sony, is native 4k.


----------



## bjanssen

namtech said:


> yeah, i was just wondering because you wrote it like the Hisense is one. Nevermind, just misunderstood you .-)
> Also AFAIK none of them, except the Sony, is native 4k.


Ooohhh my bad. What I meant to get across was that the Hisense uses a fully 4k enabled Android TV experience. So within it's implementation of Android TV you get proper 4k hdr netflix, 4k hdr youtube etc. Some Android TV implementations are these terrible hobbled versions that only do low res, or don't do 4k, etc. Anyway, this is not the Hisense post, just thought it was worth adding to your list of USTs with usable interfaces. Carry on!


----------



## RedHotFuzz

I would never rely on the onboard OS of any projector or TV.


----------



## Spekuloos

Hi everyone, 

I mentioned my issues with Dynamic Black a while back, but I still haven't managed to get around it. 

Basically I get a red tint on the image as soon DB kicks in. It can even be seen on the subtitles. 

I am attaching two pictures, one with DB on (on position 2), the other one with DB off. The tint is even more noticeable live (the camera seems to somewhat reduce it, or maybe it's my phone's screen). 

The same happens using DB on setting 1 and 3.

I tried reducing the red bias, red gain, brilliant color, and color settings in various combinations, but the rent tint is freaking persistent. 

Is anyone getting the same? Has someone managed to correct this?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Spekuloos said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I mentioned my issues with Dynamic Black a while back, but I still haven't managed to get around it.
> 
> Basically I get a red tint on the image as soon DB kicks in. It can even be seen on the subtitles.
> 
> I am attaching two pictures, one with DB on (on position 2), the other one with DB off. The tint is even more noticeable live (the camera seems to somewhat reduce it, or maybe it's my phone's screen).
> 
> The same happens using DB on setting 1 and 3.
> 
> I tried reducing the red bias, red gain, brilliant color, and color settings in various combinations, but the rent tint is freaking persistent.
> 
> Is anyone getting the same? Has someone managed to correct this?


The pumping you are seeing is one of many reasons I returned mine. I think they all pump with the current firmware..the P1 is the same or worse. I've heard they're long throw laser eventually got it fixed, so maybe somewhere down the line they'll get it resolved, but I wouldn't count on it with their recent track record.


----------



## Spekuloos

Casey_Bryson said:


> The pumping you are seeing is one of many reasons I returned mine. I think they all pump with the current firmware..the P1 is the same or worse. I've heard they're long throw laser eventually got it fixed, so maybe somewhere down the line they'll get it resolved, but I wouldn't count on it with their recent track record.


The thing is, as far as I could read, the pumping is normal as in "luminosity change". 

I could probably live with that on DB1. 

But what I am getting is more than pumping, the whole colour scheme changes. If you look at the screenshots you will see that even the subtitles turn red-ish...


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Spekuloos said:


> The thing is, as far as I could read, the pumping is normal as in "luminosity change".
> 
> I could probably live with that on DB1.
> 
> But what I am getting is more than pumping, the whole colour scheme changes. If you look at the screenshots you will see that even the subtitles turn red-ish...


Right, same here and as others have described: a coppertone like color to everything


----------



## Spekuloos

Casey_Bryson said:


> Right, same here and as others have described: a coppertone like color to everything


Ok, thanks! On the UHZ65 forum apparently they mentioned not having this change in color tone, only a change in luminosity, so I was starting to wonder if it was only me. 

Also, some users in this thread have mentioned not having this change in color tone with their units, so I'm guessing it doesn't happen with every unit. 

Did you manage to send yours back because of this? Is it fixable through a software update?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Spekuloos said:


> Ok, thanks! On the UHZ65 forum apparently they mentioned not having this change in color tone, only a change in luminosity, so I was starting to wonder if it was only me.
> 
> Also, some users in this thread have mentioned not having this change in color tone with their units, so I'm guessing it doesn't happen with every unit.
> 
> Did you manage to send yours back because of this? Is it fixable through a software update?


That's good if some don't have it but I'd have to see it to believe it. Maybe it is fixable, but I can't recall anyone posting an update since I returned mine. I was still in the 30 day window for Amazon but also had the issue where the projector lens was so bad the image was off center by about 5 inches to the left leaving the projector off center to the screen by the same amount to the right.

3D was also horrible even after correcting the over sharpening applied. I still need to post my screen shots comparing it to my Fengmi.

The blacks were also grey in comparison to my Fengmi without DB1 applied, but the pumping ruined it. 

And the calibrated lumens were about the same as my fengmi. 

And the 24p looked like 48p and not very film like...almost soap opera like effect. I preferred the 3:2 pull down I was getting.

It was nice and quiet though.


----------



## Spekuloos

Casey_Bryson said:


> That's good if some don't have it but I'd have to see it to believe it. Maybe it is fixable, but I can't recall anyone posting an update since I returned mine. I was still in the 30 day window for Amazon but also had the issue where the projector lens was so bad the image was off center by about 5 inches to the left leaving the projector off center to the screen by the same amount to the right.
> 
> 3D was also horrible even after correcting the over sharpening applied. I still need to post my screen shots comparing it to my Fengmi.


I have the same thing regarding the projector being off center... I'm attaching a picture so you can see by how much compared to the centre speaker (the speaker is centered compared to the screen). 

I don't watch any 3D movies so I haven't been able to test that. 

Screenshots comparing both projectors would be great!


----------



## mmedeir

Spekuloos said:


> Heya, I just measured approximately 16cm.
> 
> I have my center channel above the P2, between the P2 and the wall, and it's not in the way of the image (120" screen though).


Can You please post a pic of this setup?


----------



## Spekuloos

mmedeir said:


> Can You please post a pic of this setup?


Hello, it's not really a setup, just a temporary measure. As you can see from the picture attached, the speaker is just on top of two metals frames. 

I still need to find a credenza to sit everything properly, since I have a mess of cables and my AVR is directly on the floor. Let me know if you need more pictures or information though.


----------



## mmedeir

Spekuloos said:


> Hello, it's not really a setup, just a temporary measure. As you can see from the picture attached, the speaker is just on top of two metals frames.
> 
> I still need to find a credenza to sit everything properly, since I have a mess of cables and my AVR is directly on the floor. Let me know if you need more pictures or information though.


Ah i see. We put the PJ on top of a small cabinet the speaker is in.


----------



## Spekuloos

mmedeir said:


> Ah i see. We put the PJ on top of a small cabinet the speaker is in.


I tried something like that with an IKEA Besta, but the image was too high for my liking when projecting 120".

It would have been OK with 100" though.


----------



## mmedeir

Spekuloos said:


> I tried something like that with an IKEA Besta, but the image was too high for my liking when projecting 120".
> 
> It would have been OK with 100" though.


We used this Amazon.com: Convenience Concepts Designs2Go Two Tier Swivel Riser, Black: Furniture & Decor but we have a SVS Center which fit perfectly. The height of this was perfect for 120" screen.


----------



## Spekuloos

Spekuloos said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I mentioned my issues with Dynamic Black a while back, but I still haven't managed to get around it.
> 
> Basically I get a red tint on the image as soon DB kicks in. It can even be seen on the subtitles.
> 
> I am attaching two pictures, one with DB on (on position 2), the other one with DB off. The tint is even more noticeable live (the camera seems to somewhat reduce it, or maybe it's my phone's screen).
> 
> The same happens using DB on setting 1 and 3.
> 
> I tried reducing the red bias, red gain, brilliant color, and color settings in various combinations, but the rent tint is freaking persistent.
> 
> Is anyone getting the same? Has someone managed to correct this?


I just got the official reply from Optoma, which basically sums up to this : "This is working as intended, and since it's an optional setting you don't have to use it if you don't like it". 

Guess who won't be buying an Optoma again?...


----------



## Spekuloos

The company who sold me the projector has asked me to check a few things, and I just realised that the impact that Dynamic Black has on the image is even worse than I initially noticed.

I am attaching 4 pictures: 2 of them with DB1 on, and then the same with Power 100%.

On the first set have a look at Natasha's bracelet. There is a clear impact on the colour but also on the level of detail of the blue light. With Power at 100% the light is clean and detail, with DB1 active it creates this halo that erases most details. 

The second set of pictures is even more striking if you look at the clouds in the background. Look how much detail is lost with DB1 active, and how the light sources turn into puddles of light.

For those wondering the movie is Avengers End Game.


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> The company who sold me the projector has asked me to check a few things, and I just realised that the impact that Dynamic Black has on the image is even worse than I initially noticed.
> 
> I am attaching 4 pictures: 2 of them with DB1 on, and then the same with Power 100%.
> 
> On the first set have a look at Natasha's bracelet. There is a clear impact on the colour but also on the level of detail of the blue light. With Power at 100% the light is clean and detail, with DB1 active it creates this halo that erases most details.
> 
> The second set of pictures is even more striking if you look at the clouds in the background. Look how much detail is lost with DB1 active, and how the light sources turn into puddles of light.
> 
> For those wondering the movie is Avengers End Game.


i checked the same scenes on my P2, looks perfectly fine with DB1
in my case, source is ATV4K via Disney+ App, in 4:2:2 Chroma with LLDV Conversion via HDfury Arcana

Would you mind sharing what playback device + picture mode you use as well as the picture settings of your P2?


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> i checked the same scenes on my P2, looks perfectly fine with DB1
> in my case, source is ATV4K via Disney+ App, in 4:2:2 Chroma with LLDV Conversion via HDfury Arcana
> 
> Would you mind sharing what playback device + picture mode you use as well as the picture settings of your P2?


I'm using the Disney + app on a Google Chromecast with Google TV. The same thing happens with Netflix, Prime Video and HBO.

The Chromecast is connected to the P2 through a Denon AVR-X2200W.

The settings are the ones that the P2 comes with out of the box, I haven't done any calibration. The only thing I changed is that I set the Gamma to 2.4 and sharpness to 5.

Display mode is set to HDR, picture mode to HDR standard, but the same thing happens with HDR film (which I used to use before).

Input source color depth is 12 bit & 4.2.0 and color format is BT.2020 & HDR.


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> I'm using the Disney + app on a Google Chromecast with Google TV. The same thing happens with Netflix, Prime Video and HBO.
> 
> The Chromecast is connected to the P2 through a Denon AVR-X2200W.
> 
> The settings are the ones that the P2 comes with out of the box, I haven't done any calibration. The only thing I changed is that I set the Gamma to 2.4 and sharpness to 5.
> 
> Display mode is set to HDR, picture mode to HDR standard, but the same thing happens with HDR film (which I used to use before).
> 
> Input source color depth is 12 bit & 4.2.0 and color format is BT.2020 & HDR.


that sounds ok with the exception of the chroma subsampling on 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2, however that should not result in this effect.
can test another source device? it is really weird that you have this on all media/apps and all on chromecast. Can you try to replace the HDMI cable, i have seen weird stuff happen with faulty cables.

Can you also share your contrast, color and BQ settings? Factory default means nothing, some boxes have vendor calibrations pre-applied that can be too extreme.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> that sounds ok with the exception of the chroma subsampling on 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2, however that should not result in this effect.
> can test another source device? it is really weird that you have this on all media/apps and all on chromecast. Can you try to replace the HDMI cable, i have seen weird stuff happen with faulty cables.
> 
> Can you also share your contrast, color and BQ settings? Factory default means nothing, some boxes have vendor calibrations pre-applied that can be too extreme.


I already tried replacing the HDMI cable, but unfortunately no change.

I will try to connect the Chromecast directly to the P2 instead of going through the Denon AVR when I get the chance, and see if that fixes anything.

My factory settings are the same as the ones Projectorcentral recommends for dark room HDR viewing, except that sharpness was set at 10 (I lowered it to 5):

Display mode: HDR
Brightness: -2
Contrast: 11
Sharpness: 5
Color: 10
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.4

COLOR SETTINGS:
BrilliantColor: 10
Color Temp: Standard

Color Matching:
Red
H0, S5, G20
Green
H0, S5, G20
Blue
H-10, S0, G15
Cyan
H22, S-4, G25
Yellow
H-31, S-5, G15
Magenta
H10, S-5, G20
White
Red Gain 0, Green Gain -4, Blue Gain -8

RGB Gain/Bias
Red Gain: 0
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 0

Red Bias: 0
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias: 0


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> I already tried replacing the HDMI cable, but unfortunately no change.
> 
> I will try to connect the Chromecast directly to the P2 instead of going through the Denon AVR when I get the chance, and see if that fixes anything.
> 
> My factory settings are the same as the ones Projectorcentral recommends for dark room HDR viewing, except that sharpness was set at 10 (I lowered it to 5):
> 
> Display mode: HDR
> Brightness: -2
> Contrast: 11
> Sharpness: 5
> Color: 10
> Tint: 0
> Gamma: 2.4
> 
> COLOR SETTINGS:
> BrilliantColor: 10
> Color Temp: Standard
> 
> Color Matching:
> Red
> H0, S5, G20
> Green
> H0, S5, G20
> Blue
> H-10, S0, G15
> Cyan
> H22, S-4, G25
> Yellow
> H-31, S-5, G15
> Magenta
> H10, S-5, G20
> White
> Red Gain 0, Green Gain -4, Blue Gain -8
> 
> RGB Gain/Bias
> Red Gain: 0
> Green Gain: 0
> Blue Gain: 0
> 
> Red Bias: 0
> Green Bias: 0
> Blue Bias: 0


dont copy calibration values blindly. this may work or may not work, also they tested that on a 0.6 gain screen, if you have higher gain this may look drastically different.

i would recommend the following:


factory reset all color matching and temperature/gain settings - you can re-apply them again if it doesnt change anything
try a different source: firetv 4k, apple tv, anything but the chromecast just to rule out the chromecast. personally i suspect the chromecast not the AVR, or incompatible calibration.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> dont copy calibration values blindly. this may work or may not work, also they tested that on a 0.6 gain screen, if you have higher gain this may look drastically different.
> 
> i would recommend the following:
> 
> 
> factory reset all color matching and temperature/gain settings - you can re-apply them again if it doesnt change anything
> try a different source: firetv 4k, apple tv, anything but the chromecast just to rule out the chromecast. personally i suspect the chromecast not the AVR, or incompatible calibration.


I didn't copy the values from Projectorcentral, I didn't modify them except the sharpness and the gamma. It just turns out that these are the values that my P2 had out of the box, and these are the values that it reverts back to when I reset them. 

Unfortunately I don't have another 4k HDR stick. 

Is there anywhere I could download a 4k HDR test video and put it in an USB stick?


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> I didn't copy the values from Projectorcentral, I didn't modify them except the sharpness and the gamma. It just turns out that these are the values that my P2 had out of the box, and these are the values that it reverts back to when I reset them.
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have another 4k HDR stick.
> 
> Is there anywhere I could download a 4k HDR test video and put it in an USB stick?


you could but unfortunately the internal player is literally the worst piece of software ever. also loading any apps on the Optoma, most of them don't make proper use of the supported picture modes.
By the way, are you sure HDR is proper enabled on your chromecast? I dont own one but i saw this thread:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/jdiwsy


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> you could but unfortunately the internal player is literally the worst piece of software ever. also loading any apps on the Optoma, most of them don't make proper use of the supported picture modes.
> By the way, are you sure HDR is proper enabled on your chromecast? I dont own one but i saw this thread:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/jdiwsy


HDR is always on by default on the Chromecast. Activating match content actually prevents me from being able to playback Netflix in HDR. This is confirmed visually and by the "input source" information screen of the P2.

With match content off it shows rec. 2020 and HDR, with it on it shows rec. 709 and SDR. This also happens on Disney +.

What I also read is that with "match content" deactivated the Chromecast imposes some sort of HDR on SDR content, which oversaturates the image... 

What's the cheapest 4k HDR stick I could get to see if that's the issue? Maybe the Fire TV stick 4K?


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> HDR is always on by default on the Chromecast. Activating match content actually prevents me from being able to playback Netflix in HDR. This is confirmed visually and by the "input source" information screen of the P2.
> 
> With match content off it shows rec. 2020 and HDR, with it on it shows rec. 709 and SDR. This also happens on Disney +.
> 
> What I also read is that with "match content" deactivated the Chromecast imposes some sort of HDR on SDR content, which oversaturates the image...
> 
> What's the cheapest 4k HDR stick I could get to see if that's the issue? Maybe the Fire TV stick 4K?


i did some more reading about Chromecast behavior during HDR, seems it is a real pain. Match Content enabled is a must, otherwise it will always look bad. That Netflix doesn’t offer you HDR anymore, that is the bug and people seem to have varying degrees of success with restarting the device to make it work again

Get a Fire TV 4K stick and see if that is better. It is amongst the cheapest (but best) players. ATV 4K for better option.


----------



## ilmousta

@Spekuloos donwloading an hdr (or even hlg) test file from a site, and playing it directly from projector's media player, will toggle the projector in hdr (or hlg) mode. So you could definitely try that too to check if it happens. 

Also, how come you haven't tested it via hdmi connected to a laptop? If the issue is as obvious as your screenshots, it would appear in that scenario too.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> i did some more reading about Chromecast behavior during HDR, seems it is a real pain. Match Content enabled is a must, otherwise it will always look bad. That Netflix doesn’t offer you HDR anymore, that is the bug and people seem to have varying degrees of success with restarting the device to make it work again
> 
> Get a Fire TV 4K stick and see if that is better. It is amongst the cheapest (but best) players. ATV 4K for better option.


Thanks a lot for all your help!



ilmousta said:


> @Spekuloos donwloading an hdr (or even hlg) test file from a site, and playing it directly from projector's media player, will toggle the projector in hdr (or hlg) mode. So you could definitely try that too to check if it happens.
> 
> Also, how come you haven't tested it via hdmi connected to a laptop? If the issue is as obvious as your screenshots, it would appear in that scenario too.


Unfortunately I don't manage to display Netflix (or anything else, really) in HDR with the laptop. And in SDR, what Dynamic Black does to the Queen's Gambit is nothing short of horrible (see attached). 

I tried some 4K HDR samples on an USB stick. The Jazzy test from LG does actually look a lot better than when played through the Chromecast's YouTube app, and I didn't really see DB trigerring like it used to (by that I mean I didn't see skin tone changes). However, the "LG OLED" text at the end of the video did turn brown a couple of times, and then immediately turn white. I couldn't replicate this at every viewing, though. 


Also, the HDR image settings when using the P2's media player are different from those on HDMI 1. For example, when I reset them the contrast is set to 1 instead of 11 on HDMI 1, and the brightness is set to 0 instead of - 2. Anyone knows the reason behind this difference? 

I just ordered an Apple TV 4k since my parents needed one anyways, so lets see how that goes.


----------



## ilmousta

Spekuloos said:


> Also, the HDR image settings when using the P2's media player are different from those on HDMI 1. For example, when I reset them the contrast is set to 1 instead of 11 on HDMI 1, and the brightness is set to 0 instead of - 2. Anyone knows the reason behind this difference?


I'm almost certain that it stores settings for each different source, or something like that. For example, both my PC and Nintendo Switch are connected to my soundbar, which then connects to P2's HDMI 1. But when I trigger Gaming Mode, different saved settings are being used for each of those two sources. So I guess something like that may happen for different sources' HDR mode too.



Spekuloos said:


> I tried some 4K HDR samples on an USB stick. The Jazzy test from LG does actually look a lot better than when played through the Chromecast's YouTube app, and I didn't really see DB trigerring like it used to (by that I mean I didn't see skin tone changes). However, the "LG OLED" text at the end of the video did turn brown a couple of times, and then immediately turn white. I couldn't replicate this at every viewing, though.


So basically you're having a problem with DB being way red-ish, with setting even on 1/10, and that happens on either SDR and HDR. Correct? But you haven't witnessed the issue on something else other than on the Chromecast. Also correct?

If yes, if I were you I'd really verify that this is a problem with the P2 and not just another device's problematic setting. I'd use someone else's laptop or even tower, and test both windows' SDR and HDR. I'd even test it with any sorts of console. Cause from what I can see, even the MGS screenshots are video footage, so maybe not even from console, unless I just jumped to a false conclusion.

What strikes me odd is that you said that it didn't occur during the jazz test file when playing through P2's media app. I'm pretty sure that that test file is HLG, so I'd use another video file, to trigger P2's HDR mode just to test that one too. Cause if it doesn't happen on P2's aptoide OS, and it doesn't happen on console/laptop when you'll be able to try it, maybe it's something with chromecast.

Also, at this point it wouldn't hurt to completely reset the projector to it's factory settings. Or even reseting it after updating to last Friday's new firmware C07.1 that was released. Not that it would change anything, but wouldn't hurt anyway.


----------



## matthias20121

I'm new to AVSForum and have recently purchased a P2. I wondered if any owners could help with a few queries I have? 

1). I have recently upgraded the firmware on my Cinemax P2 and I am now hearing a 'pop' noise/feedback to my speakers when I start the projector - it was not doing this before. Has anyone else experienced this? My setup is Cinemax P2 - HDMI Fury Arcana - Sonos Arc. It's only a minor annoyance but it didn't do it before! 

2). Also, really simple question but has anyone been able to copy images/files onto the Cinemax's internal storage? Is there anyway to change the wallpaper to custom images? I am sure there must be a simple way to do this?

3). I cannot get the Optoma Connect software to function correctly on my iPhone with the 'next' button greyed out on all the 'Ambience' and 'Information' options (it works fine on Android when I tried it with my wife's phone). Is anyone else experiencing this? 

4). I also wondered if there was an advanced setting to change the boot logo? I did this on my last two Optoma projectors through a service menu.

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> i did some more reading about Chromecast behavior during HDR, seems it is a real pain. Match Content enabled is a must, otherwise it will always look bad. That Netflix doesn’t offer you HDR anymore, that is the bug and people seem to have varying degrees of success with restarting the device to make it work again
> 
> Get a Fire TV 4K stick and see if that is better. It is amongst the cheapest (but best) players. ATV 4K for better option.


I received the Apple TV 4K today. I just finished installing everything. 

It's definitely a step above the Chromecast in a series of aspects. I particularly like the fact that I can access the TV channels from my provider, it's one less box I'm going to need in the living room. 

I also finally get the 4:2:2 Chroma! I set it to 4K HDR 60hz and match content for range and frame rate. Images attached. 

The image quality overall seems better compared to the Chromecast, but I would have to have them working side by side to tell how much of an improvement it is. 

Unfortunately, the issue with Dynamic Black changing the tint of the image still persists... Attached a couple of screen shots. They were difficult to take since the moment I pause the image Dynamic Black stops working, so apologies for the shakiness.


----------



## Monkd

Spekuloos said:


> I received the Apple TV 4K today. I just finished installing everything.
> 
> It's definitely a step above the Chromecast in a series of aspects. I particularly like the fact that I can access the TV channels from my provider, it's one less box I'm going to need in the living room.
> 
> I also finally get the 4:2:2 Chroma! I set it to 4K HDR 60hz and match content for range and frame rate. Images attached.
> 
> The image quality overall seems better compared to the Chromecast, but I would have to have them working side by side to tell how much of an improvement it is.
> 
> Unfortunately, the issue with Dynamic Black changing the tint of the image still persists... Attached a couple of screen shots. They were difficult to take since the moment I pause the image Dynamic Black stops working, so apologies for the shakiness.


It is good to hear it looks better. Could you take screenshot that is not a color saturated scene? Even if it is the same movie, maybe in the New York Scene where there is no extreme deviations in the ambient color maybe?
I am guessing it is just the nature of the dynamic black where things can get accentuated a little bit. I am waiting on my P2.


----------



## Spekuloos

Monkd said:


> It is good to hear it looks better. Could you take screenshot that is not a color saturated scene? Even if it is the same movie, maybe in the New York Scene where there is no extreme deviations in the ambient color maybe?
> I am guessing it is just the nature of the dynamic black where things can get accentuated a little bit. I am waiting on my P2.


Just to clarify, I think the image looks better overall (more detailed and better colours). I don't feel that Dynamic Black looks better.

I will try the New York scene tonight. But honestly, it's not that things get accentuated a little bit. When Dynamic Black kicks in the colour tone changes very strongly. It's like someone applied a red/ocre filter to a picture. It's not just a minor inconvenience, it makes it unwatchable.

If someone with a P2 could use this same scene on Avengers End Game (with subtitles on) and post two screenshots with and without DB on, I would appreciate it. I just need to know if this is working as intended (and therefore some people are more sensitive to the colour changes than others) or if it's a defect of my P2.

Just be wary that when you pause the video Dynamic Black detects the increase in luminosity from the menus and it turns off, so the picture with DB on has to be taken without pausing the movie. Or at least on my P2 that's the only way I found to do it.


----------



## Spekuloos

Hi guys, my P2 was picked up last week and it's already with the company subcontracted by Optoma to do the repairs. 

I have been told twice that if I don't like Dynamic Black I can just leave it off. It's not really the answer I was expecting.

Basically they are telling me that this change in color when DB kicks in is normal, which is not what everyone here seems to be experiencing. 

Could someone take some pictures comparing DB on and off, if possible with the same scene on Avengers End Game and in HDR? I would like to send them the pictures to show that DB is supposed to improve contrast without applying a red/coper tone to the image.


----------



## Mikel O.

Spekuloos said:


> Hi guys, my P2 was picked up last week and it's already with the company subcontracted by Optoma to do the repairs.
> 
> I have been told twice that if I don't like Dynamic Black I can just leave it off. It's not really the answer I was expecting.
> 
> Basically they are telling me that this change in color when DB kicks in is normal, which is not what everyone here seems to be experiencing.
> 
> Could someone take some pictures comparing DB on and off, if possible with the same scene on Avengers End Game and in HDR? I would like to send them the pictures to show that DB is supposed to improve contrast without applying a red/coper tone to the image.


Hi Spekuloos, I am experiencing exactly the same problem as you with dynamic black.

I bought the projector one month ago and since first day, if setting the dynamic black to 3, in dark scenes the image gets so red that makes the film unpleasant to watch. At level 1 can be used but a light red tint can be observed, so I prefer to leave the brightnes at 100%.

This happens regardles of the source I use (HDMI or internal player) and the type of content, SDR or HDR.

Another Issue I am experiencing is when I feed a source [email protected], sometimes the signal gets lost. At present I am using a google chromecast with google tv, and I can use it at 4k30Hz maximum, at higher refresh rate there's a chance that the signal can get interrupted, but I don't know yet if the problem is the projector or the chromecast.

Regards


----------



## Heiok

Mikel O. said:


> Another Issue I am experiencing is when I feed a source [email protected], sometimes the signal gets lost. At present I am using a google chromecast with google tv, and I can use it at 4k30Hz maximum, at higher refresh rate there's a chance that the signal can get interrupted, but I don't know yet if the problem is the projector or the chromecast.


Uuuh, interesting! I'll test that out next week when I get my Google TV.

Regarding "dynamic black" we should be happy to have this option at all!
I had a Samsung LSP7T to test and it didn't have this option. In all settings, the image was significantly worse than with the Optoma P2, with or without dynamic black.


----------



## Spekuloos

Mikel O. said:


> Hi Spekuloos, I am experiencing exactly the same problem as you with dynamic black.
> 
> I bought the projector one month ago and since first day, if setting the dynamic black to 3, in dark scenes the image gets so red that makes the film unpleasant to watch. At level 1 can be used but a light red tint can be observed, so I prefer to leave the brightnes at 100%.
> 
> This happens regardles of the source I use (HDMI or internal player) and the type of content, SDR or HDR.
> 
> Another Issue I am experiencing is when I feed a source [email protected], sometimes the signal gets lost. At present I am using a google chromecast with google tv, and I can use it at 4k30Hz maximum, at higher refresh rate there's a chance that the signal can get interrupted, but I don't know yet if the problem is the projector or the chromecast.
> 
> Regards


Thanks Mike! Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Did you contact Optoma regarding this?

Regarding your Chromecast with Google TV, I can tell you that I was in touch with Google and they told me that their device does not support projectors (even UST), only TVs. So they do not guarantee that it works as it is supposed to with our P2. My Chromecast never lost signal, though. Is yours connected directly to the P2? If not, it could be an issue with your HDMI cable.

Honestly, it was well worth getting the Apple TV 4K just for the improvement in image quality and being able to display in chroma 4:2:2. No issues whatsoever with it.

What I would really appreciate is if one of the users who say they do not have this with DB could post some screenshots comparing DB ON and OFFwith subtitles on just to discard if it could be due to a user sensitivity to red/copper tints


----------



## Spekuloos

Heiok said:


> Uuuh, interesting! I'll test that out next week when I get my Google TV.
> 
> Regarding "dynamic black" we should be happy to have this option at all!
> I had a Samsung LSP7T to test and it didn't have this option. In all settings, the image was significantly worse than with the Optoma P2, with or without dynamic black.


If you still can, I would cancel that order. I had HDR issues with the Google TV (e.g. when setting to match content it wouldn't display HDR, only SDR, even from HDR sources) and Google's technical service told me that the device is made to work with a TV, not a projector. And therefore they cannot guarantee that it works as intended with a projector. 

Regarding Dynamic Black, I am happy to have this option, I just want it to work as advertised! Otherwise, why should I be happy to have an option that severely degrades image quality by turning it red-ish?


----------



## bjanssen

Spekuloos said:


> If you still can, I would cancel that order. I had HDR issues with the Google TV (e.g. when setting to match content it wouldn't display HDR, only SDR, even from HDR sources) and Google's technical service told me that the device is made to work with a TV, not a projector. And therefore they cannot guarantee that it works as intended with a projector.


Just by way of offering another experience (sorry it didn't work out for you!), I have zero issues with the google TV chromecast on my UST projector. In fact it's the one that had the best picture quality for me. Apple TV doesn't even have youtube HDR (which is something I love looking at to show off the projectors capabilities!). Maybe you just had a faulty one?


----------



## Spekuloos

bjanssen said:


> Just by way of offering another experience (sorry it didn't work out for you!), I have zero issues with the google TV chromecast on my UST projector. In fact it's the one that had the best picture quality for me. Apple TV doesn't even have youtube HDR (which is something I love looking at to show off the projectors capabilities!). Maybe you just had a faulty one?


It's what I thought initially, which is why I contacted Google's technical service. They told me that projectors are not supported and therefore the technical issue I was facing (match content not working) was not due to the Chromecast itself, but rather an incompatibility with the P2.

They literally told me that they only guarantee its use with TVs, not projectors, so they wouldn't be able to resolve my issue.

Basically: if it works, great, if it doesn't, too bad.


----------



## Mikel O.

Spekuloos said:


> Thanks Mike! Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Did you contact Optoma regarding this?
> 
> Regarding your Chromecast with Google TV, I can tell you that I was in touch with Google and they told me that their device does not support projectors (even UST), only TVs. So they do not guarantee that it works as it is supposed to with our P2. My Chromecast never lost signal, though. Is yours connected directly to the P2? If not, it could be an issue with your HDMI cable.
> 
> Honestly, it was well worth getting the Apple TV 4K just for the improvement in image quality and being able to display in chroma 4:2:2. No issues whatsoever with it.
> 
> What I would really appreciate is if one of the users who say they do not have this with DB could post some screenshots comparing DB ON and OFFwith subtitles on just to discard if it could be due to a user sensitivity to red/copper tints


Hi Spekuloos,

No, I haven’t contacted them yet

However, Rob Sabin from projectorcentral.com, in his comparison of the optoma against the vava states the following:

*“While these Dynamic Black settings are effective for lowering black level on dark content, I found they impart some unexpected and obvious color tinting to the image, so I rarely used them.”*

Also in the reviews from passionhomecinema and hometheaterhifi they recommend to avoid the use of dynamic black, so the problema could also be the design of the projector itself.

However, today I have been trying the recommended settings from hometheaterhifi.com where they make a review of the optoma. With these settings I managed to set the dynamic black to the level 2 without noticing red tint in the image in darker scenes and with good color image. If I set the dynamic black level to 3 then the image turns very red, so my advice is to avoid level 3 in any case.
By now I will check how it performs in level 2 and consider if the use of this settings are aceptable before contacting optoma.

Also thanks for your advice about the chromecast, I have it directly connected to the projector. I have to try another [email protected] source to see how the projector performs.

Best regards.


----------



## DunMunro

A Cinemax P2 review:









Optoma CinemaX P2 UST Laser Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com


Optoma’s CinemaX P2 is the replacement for last year’s CinemaX P1 Ultra-short Throw Projector. With 4K resolution, HDR, and 3000 lumens...




hometheaterhifi.com





well worth reading.


----------



## Spekuloos

DunMunro said:


> A Cinemax P2 review:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P2 UST Laser Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com
> 
> 
> Optoma’s CinemaX P2 is the replacement for last year’s CinemaX P1 Ultra-short Throw Projector. With 4K resolution, HDR, and 3000 lumens...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hometheaterhifi.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well worth reading.


Thanks! 

Two things that puzzled me though :


it mentions that you can level each of the 4 feet independently. In the manual it only mentioned being able to level the back feet, and I don't recall being able to level the two front feet. Did I miss something?
it also mentions that you can adjust the focus individually on 4 zones, but I only managed to adjust the focus overall, I didn't see a setting for individual corner adjustments of the focus. That would actually be helpful since I never managed to get all 4 corners in focus. How does it work?


----------



## Spekuloos

Mikel O. said:


> Hi Spekuloos,
> 
> No, I haven’t contacted them yet
> 
> However, Rob Sabin from projectorcentral.com, in his comparison of the optoma against the vava states the following:
> 
> *“While these Dynamic Black settings are effective for lowering black level on dark content, I found they impart some unexpected and obvious color tinting to the image, so I rarely used them.”*
> 
> Also in the reviews from passionhomecinema and hometheaterhifi they recommend to avoid the use of dynamic black, so the problema could also be the design of the projector itself.
> 
> However, today I have been trying the recommended settings from hometheaterhifi.com where they make a review of the optoma. With these settings I managed to set the dynamic black to the level 2 without noticing red tint in the image in darker scenes and with good color image. If I set the dynamic black level to 3 then the image turns very red, so my advice is to avoid level 3 in any case.
> By now I will check how it performs in level 2 and consider if the use of this settings are aceptable before contacting optoma.
> 
> Also thanks for your advice about the chromecast, I have it directly connected to the projector. I have to try another [email protected] source to see how the projector performs.
> 
> Best regards.


Thanks for that! 

I was seeing a lot of red tint even on DB1... 

Seeing that some people on this thread do not get the red tint, and seeing that some reviews don't mention it either, I am starting to wonder if some P2 are more affected than others. 

Also, on the hometheatrehifi review they mention that DB kicks in imperceptibly, however that's not my experience at all. On my P2 it sometimes has a delay of 1 second or more (on DB1 and DB2), and sometimes it doesn't (using the same scene!). 

Again, it would be helpful if someone who doesn't get a red tint with DB would post some screenshots so I can send them to Optoma.


----------



## Spekuloos

Mikel O. said:


> Hi Spekuloos,
> 
> No, I haven’t contacted them yet
> 
> However, Rob Sabin from projectorcentral.com, in his comparison of the optoma against the vava states the following:
> 
> *“While these Dynamic Black settings are effective for lowering black level on dark content, I found they impart some unexpected and obvious color tinting to the image, so I rarely used them.”*
> 
> Also in the reviews from passionhomecinema and hometheaterhifi they recommend to avoid the use of dynamic black, so the problema could also be the design of the projector itself.
> 
> However, today I have been trying the recommended settings from hometheaterhifi.com where they make a review of the optoma. With these settings I managed to set the dynamic black to the level 2 without noticing red tint in the image in darker scenes and with good color image. If I set the dynamic black level to 3 then the image turns very red, so my advice is to avoid level 3 in any case.
> By now I will check how it performs in level 2 and consider if the use of this settings are aceptable before contacting optoma.
> 
> Also thanks for your advice about the chromecast, I have it directly connected to the projector. I have to try another [email protected] source to see how the projector performs.
> 
> Best regards.


I just noticed that in the actual review of the P2 on Projectorcentral they also mention the red tint: 









Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser Projector Review


Optoma's CinemaX P2 4K laser UST projector builds on the success of last year's Editor's Choice-winning CinemaX P1 by adding features and modest performance improvements while dropping the price by $500.



www.projectorcentral.com





"Unfortunately, it also tended to add a subtle red tint to faces and to neutral whites and grays—the lunar surface, for example, took on a touch of pink that actually stole some edge off the specular highlights and dulled it, making it feel less dimensional and realistic. "

I just spoke with the store where my P2 was sent to for fixing. They tried Interstellar and couldn't notice the red tint, which I find extremely strange. They have been waiting for an answer from Optoma for over a week...


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Hi Everyone,

Thank you for your time and for bringing these issues to our attention.

As stated on the P1 discussion thread, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward.

We are looking into the issues raised on this thread regarding the P2 and will keep you updated with any information.

If you are experiencing a delay in replies from our service centre, we apologise for this - the team are currently working through a large backlog. Please do message us directly with your contact email and we will chase any queries for you.


Kind regards
The Optoma Team


----------



## Sam Ash

Hi guys, any user of the P2 here that bought the projector with the Optoma ALR101 or similar screen?

My question relates to successfully fitting and filling the image within the projection area of the screen by letting the projected image be slightly larger so that it overlaps on the black velvet frame without it spilling over beyond the frame and onto the back wall. Is this difficult to achieve taking into consideration that the frame on the ALR101 is rather thin.

Any other projection screen providers that provide the same lenticular material with a wider black velvet frame?


----------



## Spekuloos

Sam Ash said:


> Hi guys, any user of the P2 here that bought the projector with the Optoma ALR101 or similar screen?
> 
> My question relates to successfully fitting and filling the image within the projection area of the screen by letting the projected image be slightly larger so that it overlaps on the black velvet frame without it spilling over beyond the frame and onto the back wall. Is this difficult to achieve taking into consideration that the frame on the ALR101 is rather thin.
> 
> Any other projection screen providers that provide the same lenticular material with a wider black velvet frame?


Hi Sam, fitting the image in the screen is a PITA, especially since it also depends on how straight your wall is. In my case it's impossible to fit it without using the geometric correction. 

I'm any case, if you don't manage to manually adjust it inside the screen by physically moving the projector, you can adjust the image so that it is slightly bigger than the frame, and then correct it with the manual geometrical correction or (second choice) the Smart Fit app. 

Just be wary that this geometrical correction will be disengaged as soon as you activate game mode.


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> Hi Sam, fitting the image in the screen is a PITA, especially since it also depends on how straight your wall is. In my case it's impossible to fit it without using the geometric correction.
> 
> I'm any case, if you don't manage to manually adjust it inside the screen by physically moving the projector, you can adjust the image so that it is slightly bigger than the frame, and then correct it with the manual geometrical correction or (second choice) the Smart Fit app.
> 
> Just be wary that this geometrical correction will be disengaged as soon as you activate game mode.


Hi Spekuloos, thank you for your kind input. Is the manual geometric correction fairly easy to use? Is it effective?

Does the SmartFit app work well and effectively?

I think the frame on the ALR101 should have been at least 2" wide - by the way is it a velvet frame or just black metal?


----------



## Sam Ash

Forgot to ask, will it be compatible with the Marantz NR1200 and NVIDIA Shield TV Pro?

Any HDMI switching issues?


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> Hi Sam, fitting the image in the screen is a PITA, especially since it also depends on how straight your wall is. In my case it's impossible to fit it without using the geometric correction.
> 
> I'm any case, if you don't manage to manually adjust it inside the screen by physically moving the projector, you can adjust the image so that it is slightly bigger than the frame, and then correct it with the manual geometrical correction or (second choice) the Smart Fit app.
> 
> Just be wary that this geometrical correction will be disengaged as soon as you activate game mode.


What screen are you using? How wide is your outer frame?


----------



## Spekuloos

Sam Ash said:


> Hi Spekuloos, thank you for your kind input. Is the manual geometric correction fairly easy to use? Is it effective?
> 
> Does the SmartFit app work well and effectively?
> 
> I think the frame on the ALR101 should have been at least 2" wide - by the way is it a velvet frame or just black metal?


The manual geometric correction is very easy to use, at least a lot easier than trying to fit the image by moving the projector manually.

I didn't manage to get the Smart Fit app to work correctly, so I can't really advise regarding that.

My screen's frame is very thin (7mm) and I had no issue in getting the image inside the screen with the manual geometric correction. It's black metal, not velvet.

I think that the solution to what you seem to be facing would be using the geometric correction to get the image inside the screen, rather than getting a thicker and/or velvet frame.


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> My screen's frame is very thin (7mm) and I had no issue in getting the image inside the screen with the manual geometric correction. It's black metal, not velvet.


So you had a bit of the image overlap the frame on all four sides?

At night or in darkness can you see the overlaps on the frame considering that they are black metal?


----------



## Spekuloos

Sam Ash said:


> So you had a bit of the image overlap the frame on all four sides?
> 
> At night or in darkness can you see the overlaps on the frame considering that they are black metal?


Yes, and yes.


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> Yes, and yes.


Thanks Spekuloos, I'm glad about the first yes but not the second one. The fact that you can see the overlapping image on the frame does not distract you?


----------



## Spekuloos

Sam Ash said:


> Thanks Spekuloos, I'm glad about the first yes but not the second one. The fact that you can see the overlapping image on the frame does not distract you?


I don't have an overlapping of the image since I used the manual geometrical correction to reduce the size of the image until it fit perfectly inside the screen. 

What I do have to warn you about, though, is that even if you use the geometrical correction to reduce the size of the screen, it doesn't reduce the size of the light projected. 

This means that although the image fits perfectly inside the screen, there is a halo of light on the wall all around the frame up to wherever the image was initially projected. 

I imagine this could be reduced if my walls were not painted white, but that's not something I plan on doing since the main purpose of this room is to be a living room, not a cinema room.


----------



## Spekuloos

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for your time and for bringing these issues to our attention.
> 
> As stated on the P1 discussion thread, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward.
> 
> We are looking into the issues raised on this thread regarding the P2 and will keep you updated with any information.
> 
> If you are experiencing a delay in replies from our service centre, we apologise for this - the team are currently working through a large backlog. Please do message us directly with your contact email and we will chase any queries for you.
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


Glad to read that. 

Any word on the red/ocre tint which appears when Dybamic Black is active? I have sent my projector for repair due to this issue over 2 weeks ago, and still no news from Optoma in this respect. 

Also, any plans to make Game Mode work without deactivating the manual geometrical correction? 

What about individual adjustment of corner focus? It's impossible to get all corners in focus. 

And I just read on the P1 thread that HLG is not supported through HDMI, only through USB. The P2 has been advertised as HLG compatible, so clearly this is problematic, especially since my provider uses HLG. What will be done regarding this?


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> Any word on the red/ocre tint which appears when Dybamic Black is active? I have sent my projector for repair due to this issue over 2 weeks ago, and still no news from Optoma in this respect.


Can this not be corrected with calibration?



> Also, any plans to make Game Mode work without deactivating the manual geometrical correction?


A bit worrying to be honest, hopefully Optoma will address it.



> What about individual adjustment of corner focus? It's impossible to get all corners in focus.


Is this noticeable when watching content? I am extremely sensitive to sharpness not including depth of field effects incorporated by the movie director. Optoma does mention 90% uniformity in the specifications.



> And I just read on the P1 thread that HLG is not supported through HDMI, only through USB. The P2 has been advertised as HLG compatible, so clearly this is problematic, especially since my provider uses HLG. What will be done regarding this?


Is the P2 HDR10 compliant? Any chance of it being upgraded to HDR10+? is the static tone mapping ability of the projector good?


----------



## Sam Ash

Hi Spekuloos, the fact that you said you were able to perform manual geometric correction to fit and successfully bleed the image slightly on your narrow outer frame tells me a lot. I'd like to hear from users here that have opted to use the P2 in conjunction with the Vividstorm rising screen. In such a case there is no black frame or border but it now tells me that it is possible to geometrically correct the image so that the edges of the image are pretty much straight.

Any users here with such a setup? Please share your experiences.


----------



## Sam Ash

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for your time and for bringing these issues to our attention.
> 
> As stated on the P1 discussion thread, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward.
> 
> We are looking into the issues raised on this thread regarding the P2 and will keep you updated with any information.
> 
> If you are experiencing a delay in replies from our service centre, we apologise for this - the team are currently working through a large backlog. Please do message us directly with your contact email and we will chase any queries for you.
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


Has the source switching issue been fixed?


----------



## Spekuloos

Sam Ash said:


> Can this not be corrected with calibration?


I tried, but the color settings didn't seem to have an impact at all on the red tint. I even got red all the way down to zero, which clearly affected the image without DB, but as soon as DB would kick in a red tint would be applied again.



> Is this noticeable when watching content? I am extremely sensitive to sharpness not including depth of field effects incorporated by the movie director. Optoma does mention 90% uniformity in the specifications.


In my case it's slightly noticeable if you are focusing (no pun intended) on the affected corner, but you don't really notice it if you are just enjoying the movie.



> Is the P2 HDR10 compliant?


Yes.


----------



## namtech

Is anybody here using a P2 with a PS5 and a last-gen Denon AVR? (X4400H here)
I got my PS5 a few days ago and now fighting a reoccurring no-signal black screen, presumably, HDMI (or maybe HDCP) related issues. I could not yet with certainty determine which device in the chain is the culprit, however currently i suspect the P2 (most likely the AVR but read for yourself) but i couldn't nail it down exactly yet.
My default chain is: PS5 -> Denon X4400H > HDfury Arcana > Optoma P2 (HDMI 1)
(also note: i have NO issues with any other device connected to the AVR including ATV4K, FireTV 4K Stick, FireTV Cube)

So during first time setup, everything was fine, played some stuff, sent console to rest mode and finished the day. Next day: no signal; Arcana was showing OUT but no IN signal - very weird.
I then restarted all the devices in the chain one by one, no effect, i multiple times restarted the P2 - suddenly signal. This repeats every day, as soon as the PS5 was in rest mode or powered down, it will no longer sync with my setup. During the problem: the AVR HDMI Signal Info view shows: IN: --- | OUT: 1080P (which should show 4KBLABLA); HDFury Arcana shows the same basically.

I tried so far:


replacing PS5 HDMI cable, tried out of the Box cable and various others - no difference
removed HDFury Arcana from chain - no effect
switched HDMI Port on AVR - no effect
disabled HDCP on PS5 - no effect (and i was very certain it would be related to the HDCP Handshake :/ )
switched HDMI Port on P2; interestingly there seems to be something different if it is connected to an HDMI 1.4 port, for example HDMI 3 on the P2-
-> If the AVR is connected to a HDMI 1.4 Port, the SYNC works in 1080P
-> If the PS5 is directly connected to a HDMI 2.0 or 1.4 Port on the P2, the sync is also fine


So, yes, the obvious conclusion is, that it must be the AVR if the PS5 works directly connected to the P2, i tend to agree somewhat but what bugs me: it works sometimes if i multiple times restart the P2 - however it does not help to restart the AVR multiple times.
I am no HDMI Expert, maybe this is some internal handshake issue across the chain, maybe the PS5 is faulty.

I will try to see if the same issue persists if i connect my old Sony XF9005 instead of the P2 later this week. I dont see me replacing the AVR just yet, while it is not the most current model i have no need for any 8K enabled AVR just yet and the 4400H is not THAT old or outdated.

For now i can only play reliable if the PS5 is directly connected to the P2 (yeah, not that much of a huge deal but it annoys me)


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> Is anybody here using a P2 with a PS5 and a last-gen Denon AVR? (X4400H here)
> I got my PS5 a few days ago and now fighting a reoccurring no-signal black screen, presumably, HDMI (or maybe HDCP) related issues. I could not yet with certainty determine which device in the chain is the culprit, however currently i suspect the P2 (most likely the AVR but read for yourself) but i couldn't nail it down exactly yet.
> My default chain is: PS5 -> Denon X4400H > HDfury Arcana > Optoma P2 (HDMI 1)
> (also note: i have NO issues with any other device connected to the AVR including ATV4K, FireTV 4K Stick, FireTV Cube)
> 
> So during first time setup, everything was fine, played some stuff, sent console to rest mode and finished the day. Next day: no signal; Arcana was showing OUT but no IN signal - very weird.
> I then restarted all the devices in the chain one by one, no effect, i multiple times restarted the P2 - suddenly signal. This repeats every day, as soon as the PS5 was in rest mode or powered down, it will no longer sync with my setup. During the problem: the AVR HDMI Signal Info view shows: IN: --- | OUT: 1080P (which should show 4KBLABLA); HDFury Arcana shows the same basically.
> 
> I tried so far:
> 
> 
> replacing PS5 HDMI cable, tried out of the Box cable and various others - no difference
> removed HDFury Arcana from chain - no effect
> switched HDMI Port on AVR - no effect
> disabled HDCP on PS5 - no effect (and i was very certain it would be related to the HDCP Handshake :/ )
> switched HDMI Port on P2; interestingly there seems to be something different if it is connected to an HDMI 1.4 port, for example HDMI 3 on the P2-
> -> If the AVR is connected to a HDMI 1.4 Port, the SYNC works in 1080P
> -> If the PS5 is directly connected to a HDMI 2.0 or 1.4 Port on the P2, the sync is also fine
> 
> 
> So, yes, the obvious conclusion is, that it must be the AVR if the PS5 works directly connected to the P2, i tend to agree somewhat but what bugs me: it works sometimes if i multiple times restart the P2 - however it does not help to restart the AVR multiple times.
> I am no HDMI Expert, maybe this is some internal handshake issue across the chain, maybe the PS5 is faulty.
> 
> I will try to see if the same issue persists if i connect my old Sony XF9005 instead of the P2 later this week. I dont see me replacing the AVR just yet, while it is not the most current model i have no need for any 8K enabled AVR just yet and the 4400H is not THAT old or outdated.
> 
> For now i can only play reliable if the PS5 is directly connected to the P2 (yeah, not that much of a huge deal but it annoys me)


I had an unrelated but yet strangely familiar issue with the Google Chromecast with Google TV. 

Somehow, with it connected through my Denon Avr-2200w, it would not reliably turn on or off, and also Spotify Connect on the Denon stopped working (I could send music, the Denon would turn on and show as playing, but no sound would come out of my speakers). 

These same issues would not happen with my Panasonic plasma TV, so it's definitely some kind of compatibility issue with the P2. 

Also, everything started working flawlessly (including Spotify Connect) from the moment I replaced the Chromecast with the Apple TV 4k. 

So it seems that the P2 does generate some compatibility issues with some devices when an AVR is being used. I have no idea why, though, and I did try different HDMI cables and all sorts of combinations.


----------



## Spekuloos

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for your time and for bringing these issues to our attention.
> 
> As stated on the P1 discussion thread, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward.
> 
> We are looking into the issues raised on this thread regarding the P2 and will keep you updated with any information.
> 
> If you are experiencing a delay in replies from our service centre, we apologise for this - the team are currently working through a large backlog. Please do message us directly with your contact email and we will chase any queries for you.
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


Hi Optoma Team,

I contacted the company which sold me my P2 since I get a red tint when using Dynamic Black in any setting, and even color adjustments wouldn't reduce this. You can find pictures which I posted earlier in this thread which speak for themselves.

After a long back-and-forth of e-mails they told me that Optoma Spain had asked that the projector is sent by express mail to a company in Madrid, to which they usually subcontract projector repairs. So beginning of February I sent my P2 on a 600km+ road trip (I'm in Portugal). 

Fast forward 18 days later and I have just been informed that an update will be released OTA that should address the red tint on Dynamic Black, so they are sending my P2 back (another 600km+) without any modifications done to it. 

Part of me is glad that the DB issue is being addressed. But the other part is thoroughly pissed off that my projector had to be sent to Madrid and back for no reason whatsoever, in the middle of a global pandemic, and with the risk of damage/theft/loss. Couldn't Optoma Spain check if the red tint with DB ON was affecting other P2 and if an OTA update was foreseen before asking me to send it in for repair? 

Anyways, I do have a few non-rhetorical questions: 

1) What is the ETA on this update, and what does it address other than the tint on Dynamic Black? Also, since not everyone seems to be noticing this tint on their P2 (and for those who are, some seem worse than others), how exactly will this update approach the issue?
2) One of the things that pushed me to buy the P2 is the fact that it was advertised as HLG compatible, which is the standard used by my provider for their HDR TV channels. I saw on another thread that this was misleading, since the P2 only allows HLG via USB. Is it possible to update the P2 to be compatible with HLG via HDMI, and if so when will this be implemented? 
2) A second thing that made me choose this projector is the ability to toggle game mode on for reduced input lag. Again, as much as I knew that game mode would toggle off SmartFit, it was not made clear to me that game mode would also toggle off the manual geometrical correction. This renders game mode unusable in my case, since I do need to use the geometrical correction to fit the image to my screen. Is it technically possible to improve input lag for those of us who have to use the manual geometrical correction?


----------



## Spekuloos

I just received confirmation from Optoma Spain that the P2 will never be HLG compliant via HDMI since "the HDMI entries do not accept those image metadata so no matter what you plug in there it will not detect it".


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> I just received confirmation from Optoma Spain that the P2 will never be HLG compliant via HDMI since "the HDMI entries do not accept those image metadata so no matter what you plug in there it will not detect it".


thats a shame on behalf of their marketings and product information, agreed. However i wouldnt cry about HLG compliance, get a HDFury Arcana and enjoy Dolby Vision content on your P2.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> thats a shame on behalf of their marketings and product information, agreed. However i wouldnt cry about HLG compliance, get a HDFury Arcana and enjoy Dolby Vision content on your P2.


Well, right now Dynamic Black and Game Mode are unusable (the former pending an update, the latter because it defeats the manual geometrical correction, which I need).

Having to spend another 200 € and add another device in the loop to get HLG to work when the Epson LS500 is cheaper than the P2 in the first place, has better contrast and immensely better input lag doesn't really make me happy.

With this being said, where can I get more information on the HDFury Arcana?  I can only find threads about the Vertex. Do you notice a clear improvement in image quality between LLDV and whatever the P2 was outputting before? Any compatibility issues whatsoever with the P2? Do you plug it in between your A/V receiver and the P2? So if I understand correctly, by plugging in my provider's TV box to the Arcana it would convert the HLG signal into an HDR signal that the P2 can display?


----------



## Sam Ash

Spekuloos said:


> Well, right now Dynamic Black and Game Mode are unusable (the former pending an update, the latter because it defeats the manual geometrical correction, which I need).
> 
> Having to spend another 200 € and add another device in the loop to get HLG to work when the Epson LS500 is cheaper than the P2 in the first place, has better contrast and immensely better input lag doesn't really make me happy.
> 
> With this being said, where can I get more information on the HDFury Arcana?  I can only find threads about the Vertex. Do you notice a clear improvement in image quality between LLDV and whatever the P2 was outputting before? Any compatibility issues whatsoever with the P2? Do you plug it in between your A/V receiver and the P2? So if I understand correctly, by plugging in my provider's TV box to the Arcana it would convert the HLG signal into an HDR signal that the P2 can display?


This is interesting.


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> With this being said, where can I get more information on the HDFury Arcana?  I can only find threads about the Vertex. Do you notice a clear improvement in image quality between LLDV and whatever the P2 was outputting before? Any compatibility issues whatsoever with the P2? Do you plug it in between your A/V receiver and the P2? So if I understand correctly, by plugging in my provider's TV box to the Arcana it would convert the HLG signal into an HDR signal that the P2 can display?


Yes, tonemapped Dolby Vision on the P2 looks notably better than native HDR10. Arcana is basically plug and play, you connect it in between AVR and P2 and set LLDV Conversion to enable (it has a small jogwheel-dial button where you can cycle through options), ATV4K for example will detect a Dolby Vision enabled device afterwards.

I don't know if it would convert HLG to HDR10, it probably doesn't. It supports LLDV to HDR; you need to ask the HDFury support for proper confirmation if HLG to HDR10 works, maybe its a good feature request.

EDIT: i just had a look at the official product description, it states:

Special Modes:DV/LLDV to HDR10 display, Boost HDR nits value, Translate HLG>HDR, HDMI Doctor

I have not seen any option to enable HLG / HDR Translation, so again i would recommend to ask HDFury Support.


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> Yes, tonemapped Dolby Vision on the P2 looks notably better than native HDR10. Arcana is basically plug and play, you connect it in between AVR and P2 and set LLDV Conversion to enable (it has a small jogwheel-dial button where you can cycle through options), ATV4K for example will detect a Dolby Vision enabled device afterwards.
> 
> I don't know if it would convert HLG to HDR10, it probably doesn't. It supports LLDV to HDR; you need to ask the HDFury support for proper confirmation if HLG to HDR10 works, maybe its a good feature request.
> 
> EDIT: i just had a look at the official product description, it states:
> 
> Special Modes:DV/LLDV to HDR10 display, Boost HDR nits value, Translate HLG>HDR, HDMI Doctor
> 
> I have not seen any option to enable HLG / HDR Translation, so again i would recommend to ask HDFury Support.
> 
> View attachment 3095949


I just got a reply from their help desk. The Arcana doesn't support it, but the Vertex 2 might. However it's a lot of hassle and configuration and no guarantee that it would work properly. 

So it doesn't resolve the HLG issue.


----------



## namtech

Spekuloos said:


> I just got a reply from their help desk. The Arcana doesn't support it, but the Vertex 2 might. However it's a lot of hassle and configuration and no guarantee that it would work properly.
> 
> So it doesn't resolve the HLG issue.


no, it seems it doesn't. However i don't understand the obsession with HLG, proper streaming sources do Dolby Vision or HDR10. What source in particular do you have that does HLG only? Live TV? Sports?


----------



## Spekuloos

namtech said:


> no, it seems it doesn't. However i don't understand the obsession with HLG, proper streaming sources do Dolby Vision or HDR10. What source in particular do you have that does HLG only? Live TV? Sports?


For streaming I use my Apple TV 4K, so no issues there, everything is in HDR10 or DV.

But I also have a 4K TV box from my provider that I use to access the videoclub (I have a series of free movies per month), TV channels (news, sports, etc.), etc. This box uses HLG only, so with the P2 I don't manage to get HDR to work. 

From what I understand this is similar to what some users are experiencing with their Sky box.


----------



## colonius

Sam Ash said:


> Hi Spekuloos, the fact that you said you were able to perform manual geometric correction to fit and successfully bleed the image slightly on your narrow outer frame tells me a lot. I'd like to hear from users here that have opted to use the P2 in conjunction with the Vividstorm rising screen. In such a case there is no black frame or border but it now tells me that it is possible to geometrically correct the image so that the edges of the image are pretty much straight.
> 
> Any users here with such a setup? Please share your experiences.


Yes, here. I am using the Vividstorm 120" motorized (rising) ALR screen with the P2. A few observation:


The SmartFit app does not work *at all* with this setup, to a point where I was ready to return the P2
Manual (moving the projector) fitting is a pain in the posterior and you never get it quite right.
The geometrical correction with the P2 remote works. It is still quite painful to use.
I decided to adjust the projector image to remain just inside the super-thin black side boundaries of the screen (top and especially bottom is wider). Note that the screen has some height adjust-ability as well.
However, I see no way that you would get the picture exactly aligned without having either some overscan onto the wall behind the screen or going just slightly below the actual screen size.


----------



## technomaget

Has anyone done a comparison of the ProjectorCentral calibration settings vs. the Hometheaterhifi settings? I used the projectorcentral settings and am quite happy with them, but I really have no way of knowing what is "ideal". Precalibration, I could cases of washed out scenes, bad contrast and after that, everything looks great, but I have no idea if the Hometheaterhifi settings, which are a bit different look better or not (and I don't know if I would even be able to tell the difference).


----------



## technomaget

Have any of you noticed a very slight darkening on the screen at the bottom, slightly to the left of the vertical center line of the screen? This is only noticeable when the screen is completely white. It looks like a gray 2-3 inch "smudge". I will clean the lens, but am curious if it's some artifact of the project that people have seen before.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

Spekuloos said:


> Having to spend another 200 € and add another device in the loop to get HLG to work when the Epson LS500 is cheaper than the P2 in the first place, has better contrast and immensely better input lag doesn't really make me happy.


Unfortunately I can’t even consider the Epson due to its relatively-massive 6” additional distance from the front of the unit to the screen at 120”. Shame the Epson is utterly uncompetitive with the Optoma, Vava and Samsung in this regard.


----------



## SP for Sofa Potato

What are the key difference between P1 and P2?


----------



## soldiersinx

For those looking for a place to put your ust, check out the Ikea lack tv bench. Its dimensions are 58-5/8 w, 21-5/8 d, and 13-3/4 h. It's not crazy expensive either, $59.99.


----------



## m15000

Hi everyone, I am setting up my Grandview ALR 100" screen and I'm going crazy. I'm trying to put the screen up without using any sort of geometric correction as I don't want the any light beyond the image or the reduced resolution. For reference I am using "SmartFIT Installation Guide for Fixed Frame Screen and Wall" manual as well as the placement card thingies the Optoma P2 comes with. 

The placement cards seem to be off. When i go by the 100" wall measurement from the rear legs, the image projected is much too small. When i go with the thin frame 100" screen card measurement, the projected image is way too big. I've also tried going by the distance of the wall (plus 1" for the screen thickness) to the most rear point of the projector and that was off as well. If anyone has a guide on how to do this, pointers, or knows a home theater install in Maryland I would appreciate it!


----------



## PhauteMarne

Greetings. Has anyone been successful getting LLDV to work on UHD Blu Rays on an xbox one with one of the HD Fury products. I picked up the Arcana thinking it was plug and play and can get the Xbox to indicate DV is now supported which is a start but it won't display the source as such on the OLED and thus isn't functioning as I need it to. Any advice would be well appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## namtech

PhauteMarne said:


> Greetings. Has anyone been successful getting LLDV to work on UHD Blu Rays on an xbox one with one of the HD Fury products. I picked up the Arcana thinking it was plug and play and can get the Xbox to indicate DV is now supported which is a start but it won't display the source as such on the OLED and thus isn't functioning as I need it to. Any advice would be well appreciated. Thanks.


have you LLDV Conversion set to enabled on the Arcana? It is disabled by default.
Besides that it is plug and play, enable it and the OSD should indicate the conversion once playback starts.

EDIT: i dont have an xbox series x (i doubt the xbox one can read UHD Blu Rays) but to my knowledge the xbox supports only dolby vision for streaming services (i.e netflix) - the built in Bluray player AFAIK does not support DV.


----------



## PhauteMarne

namtech said:


> have you LLDV Conversion set to enabled on the Arcana? It is disabled by default.
> Besides that it is plug and play, enable it and the OSD should indicate the conversion once playback starts.
> 
> EDIT: i dont have an xbox series x (i doubt the xbox one can read UHD Blu Rays) but to my knowledge the xbox supports only dolby vision for streaming services (i.e netflix) - the built in Bluray player AFAIK does not support DV.


Yes, it is enabled and I only use the Xbox (one s- not the new one) to watch UHD Blu Rays so it should work but I just haven't figured it out yet. I'll keep trying. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## namtech

PhauteMarne said:


> Yes, it is enabled and I only use the Xbox (one s- not the new one) to watch UHD Blu Rays so it should work but I just haven't figured it out yet. I'll keep trying. Thanks for the reply.


The Xbox player does not support dolby vision.


----------



## PhauteMarne

namtech said:


> The Xbox player does not support dolby vision.


Just found that out, yup. It supports DV but only for low bitrate Netflix, ATV streaming so the Arcana is going back tomorrow because I really don't feel like purchasing a new Blu Ray Player ATM. Thanks for the follow up message!


----------



## namtech

PhauteMarne said:


> Just found that out, yup. It supports DV but only for low bandwidth Netflix, ATV streaming so the Arcana is going back tomorrow because I really don't feel like purchasing a new Blu Ray Player ATM. Thanks for the follow up message!


Unless you watch lots of Netflix. Netflix with LLDV conversion looks drastically better


----------



## PhauteMarne

namtech said:


> Unless you watch lots of Netflix. Netflix with LLDV conversion looks drastically better


I'm in the middle of the French countryside riding out the pandemic. We're still 3 years away from Fiber Optics  That's why I have to go the disc route.


----------



## namtech

My UHZ60UST is starting to act up and making weird noises. Almost like all my faulty UHZ65UST's i had previously
I am not sure if it is the laser engine or some fan issue, it comes and goes. Sometimes the unit is dead silent and now sometimes a buzzing (with frequency not stable) joined the normal operating noise. Very distracting and annoying.

I am somehow certain this started with the last update.

EDIT: raised support ticket with reseller.


----------



## McStyvie

I couldn't get mine to work at all with the Xbox one X and the Denonx4700h.
Sent it back and got the Samsung Premiere (smaller one) and never looked back.


----------



## namtech

McStyvie said:


> I couldn't get mine to work at all with the Xbox one X and the Denonx4700h.
> Sent it back and got the Samsung Premiere (smaller one) and never looked back.


how would you compare operating noise between the P2 and the LSP7T?


----------



## McStyvie

namtech said:


> how would you compare operating noise between the P2 and the LSP7T?


The Optoma was slightly quieter but both are wayyy quieter than the BenQs that I had before (especially since they are further away from viewing spot for me)


----------



## anandt

m15000 said:


> Hi everyone, I am setting up my Grandview ALR 100" screen and I'm going crazy. I'm trying to put the screen up without using any sort of geometric correction as I don't want the any light beyond the image or the reduced resolution. For reference I am using "SmartFIT Installation Guide for Fixed Frame Screen and Wall" manual as well as the placement card thingies the Optoma P2 comes with.
> 
> The placement cards seem to be off. When i go by the 100" wall measurement from the rear legs, the image projected is much too small. When i go with the thin frame 100" screen card measurement, the projected image is way too big. I've also tried going by the distance of the wall (plus 1" for the screen thickness) to the most rear point of the projector and that was off as well. If anyone has a guide on how to do this, pointers, or knows a home theater install in Maryland I would appreciate it!


I am using IKEA lack and rear leg is around 13inches from the wall. My screen (Elite Screens Aeon CLR 3 Series) is about 1 inch thick. I hope this helps. I don't use geometric correction and you cant if you are in game mode.


----------



## GregK

Can somebody recommend a good set of available DLP-Link glasses that work well with the latest PJs like the P2, and that also do minimal tampering to the color balance?


----------



## Wannago

On Friday I received my new P2 which is replacing a Xiaomi HD UST (that developed 41 dead pixels over the span of 2 years of very light usage).

Anyway, I received the unit and was able to set it up temporarily (using my matte white Silver Ticket screen while waiting for my Elite Screens Aeon CLR 3 to arrive). I was able to set it up and use it for about an hour and a half and was quite impressed with the out of the box image quality.

When I went to use it again later that evening, it ran for about 10 minutes and then the laser failed and I got the red "lamp" LED and a red flashing power LED. 

It's now boxed back up waiting for the return shipping label and a replacement unit. Hopefully this was a rare defective unit and this isn't a common problem.


----------



## soldiersinx

ProjectionHead said:


> I think that Optoma understands the demand for the black case. I wouldn't give up hope just yet.


Any update to this? Are they coming out with a black version or is the p3 going to be in black? Thank you.


----------



## ProjectionHead

soldiersinx said:


> Any update to this? Are they coming out with a black version or is the p3 going to be in black? Thank you.


No update that I can share yet


----------



## soldiersinx

ProjectionHead said:


> No update that I can share yet


I'm not in the market until the summer, so hopefully there will be news then.


----------



## sam12

arpy911 said:


> To update my post above, I tried the P2 with a newer DirecTV Mini receiver and had the same issues shown in the above video. Optoma technical support told me to change the EDID on the HDMI ports to 1.4 instead of 2.0 to try to address the problem, that did not have any effect.
> 
> In addition, the projector is showing a darker picture on the left half of the screen (a straight line down the middle of the screen denotes the light and dark sides). This appeared to go away after the projector was on for a while.
> 
> The upshot is anything on DirecTV with any sort of darker scenes is pretty much unwatchable, brighter material (NFL) is tolerable. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is what I'm testing with but same issues with some other movies, both live and recorded to the DVR.
> 
> Either I got a bum unit or there are some issues here ... I will swap it out with a P1 with everything else the same and see what happens.


Have a similar line too with darker picture on left half of screen and it does not go away even if the projector is on for a while. Any ideas ?


----------



## g4s

sam12 said:


> Have a similar line too with darker picture on left half of screen and it does not go away even if the projector is on for a while. Any ideas ?


If you switch inputs or go to the projectors home screen, then switch back, it should return to normal.


----------



## gsimmons2005

sam12 said:


> Have a similar line too with darker picture on left half of screen and it does not go away even if the projector is on for a while. Any ideas ?


I had that too, think the arcana, appletv and lldv messed with the eeid hdmi details some how. I did a factory reset and set Apple TV to hdr and all seems good. Plus it seems all the constant source switching stopped, so I guess moral is just use hdr, though arcana is great for Sonos arc surround system.


----------



## gsimmons2005

gsimmons2005 said:


> I had that too, think the arcana, appletv and lldv messed with the eeid hdmi details some how. I did a factory reset and set Apple TV to hdr and all seems good. Plus it seems all the constant source switching stopped, so I guess moral is just use hdr, though arcana is great for Sonos arc surround system.


I think it’s Apple TV. I switched back to roku and never seen it since. It’s like Apple TV breaks the hdmi handshake


----------



## Wannago

Does anyone else have an (approx) 1" black "border" around the projected picture?


----------



## DunMunro

Another P2 review:









Optoma CinemaX P2 Ultra-short Throw Projector Review - HomeTheaterReview


The Optoma CinemaX P2 is an attractive alternative to a TV or traditional projector, both in terms of its picture and its form factor.




images2.hometheaterreview.com


----------



## RedHotFuzz

DunMunro said:


> Another P2 review:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P2 Ultra-short Throw Projector Review - HomeTheaterReview
> 
> 
> The Optoma CinemaX P2 is an attractive alternative to a TV or traditional projector, both in terms of its picture and its form factor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> images2.hometheaterreview.com


As a new buyer-to-be of a UST projector, I wish they (the manufacturers and the reviewers) would tone down the wild claims about projector-to-screen distance:

“Ultra-short throw (UST) projectors alleviate all of those issues. They can be placed on the same credenza as a TV, mere inches from the screen.”

Uh huh. Right. 

“For a 120-inch diagonal screen, the top of CinemaX P2 needs to be about a foot below the bottom of the screen edge, and the back of the projector needs to be 13.5 inches from the screen (which puts the front of the projector 28.6 inches away from the screen).”

Ah, the truth comes out. 

First off, no one with a rational brain considers 13.5 inches “mere inches.” And clearly you are not going to place your projector on a common credenza, unless you want your credenza sitting a foot away from the wall or you’ve found someone crazy enough to build/sell a 30-inch-deep credenza. Also, integration into a typical HT system with a center-channel speaker is tricky, and none of these manufacturers appear to have the common sense to allow you to use the projector’s on-board speaker via a passive connection to your receiver.


----------



## jwo011

Folks, 
I am about to pull the trigger on P2 and 120 inch ALR Elitescreen. Pretty convinced about the screen but the ultimate question is whether to go for P2 or maybe another UST projector. Thoughts?
Thanks


----------



## Cloudyhi

technomaget said:


> I don't know if anyone has had this problem, but I am simply unable to change the brightness, contrast, sharpness, color or tint in any of the modes (e.g. reference, cinema). These settings are always grayed out no matter what I try. Any ideas what's going on here?


Were you able to switch it?


----------



## David Orr

Ok so had my P2 for over 6 months now. Two days ago it randomly shut off, and would not turn on again. It would stop at the Optoma start screen. Unplugged it, tried reloading the firm ware. Nothing. Opened up a RMA with Optoma. Very unfortunate, but so far the customer service experience has been good. My guess is I'll get a new one when we finish their RMA process. Wish me luck!


----------



## ilmousta

David Orr said:


> Ok so had my P2 for over 6 months now. Two days ago it randomly shut off, and would not turn on again. It would stop at the Optoma start screen. Unplugged it, tried reloading the firm ware. Nothing. Opened up a RMA with Optoma. Very unfortunate, but so far the customer service experience has been good. My guess is I'll get a new one when we finish their RMA process. Wish me luck!


I've had the stopping at Optoma start screen as well, together with quite a few other bugs that have been happening now and then. Have my P2 for almost 7.5 months. Hope your replacement won't have any issues at all!

Really wish @OPTOMA Official were active as they promised they would be. So many bugs, so few FW releases with actual issue tackling.


----------



## David Orr

ilmousta said:


> I've had the stopping at Optoma start screen as well, together with quite a few other bugs that have been happening now and then. Have my P2 for almost 7.5 months. Hope your replacement won't have any issues at all!
> 
> Really wish @OPTOMA Official were active as they promised they would be. So many bugs, so few FW releases with actual issue tackling.


I agree with everything you said. Few things I noticed that should have been warning signs: every so often when I turned it on, the fans would spin at 100%, my unit never seemed to be as bright as expected after viewing other sets, ARC worked sometimes, and sometimes the picture would get tottaly wonky. So far so good with Optoma's RMA process. They've been prompt. I just shipped my unit off today. Luckily the repair facility isn't far from where I live, so they should get the unit tomorrow. My big concern now is how covid has impacted their supply lines. If I need a new motherboard/processor......Ooooo boy. I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## David Orr

Projector has arrived at their repair facility. They have estimated between a 1 and 2 week time frame for repair.


----------



## Sam Ash

This question may have already been asked but does the P2 still suffer from handshake issues? Anyone using it with the Marantz NR1200?


----------



## David Orr

David Orr said:


> Projector has arrived at their repair facility. They have estimated between a 1 and 2 week time frame for repair.


 And three weeks later, no communication from them. Gave them a call today--Their customer service rep told me there were no notes with the projector, but that it was there. At this point I'm a little disappointed in the level of communication I'm getting from Optoma.


----------



## mikecorp

Hello Guys, I want to ask if any of you were successful to pair new Apple TV's (2021) remote control. I would like to use Apple tv's Audio buttons. thank you


----------



## henryusa

Hello Guys,
About the handshake issue between Optoma P2 and most A/V receivers (including DENONs). I've invested $50 on this product Amazon.com: NEWCARE [email protected] 4x2 HDMI Audio Extractor Matrix Switch Splitter, with Optical Toslink SPDIF+Coaxial+3.5mm Audio Out+IR Remote, Supports HDCP2.2 HDMI2.0, Ultra HD, 3D, ARC, EDID, HDR for PS5 Xbox: Electronics

It works pretty well - the handshake last a few second only now. Not ideal but it works.


----------



## DunMunro

Another P2 review:









OPTOMA CINEMAX P2 LASER TV REVIEW - Projector Reviews


Optoma CinemaX P2 ultra-short-throw smart 4K laser home theater projector also known as a laser TV review




www.projectorreviews.com


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Everyone -- We apologize for the delay in the firmware release to address the HDMI 2.1 AVR issue. We have been working hard with our software development teams to find a solutions to the important concerns and issues raised in this forum.

Earlier this year, we made a commitment to provide the firmware upgrades and share information with you and we intend to honor our commitment to keep you informed.

We are pleased to announce the firmware updates for Optoma’s CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors is *NOW* *AVAILABLE*. The updates can be performed OTA (online – over the air) or via USB upgrade. To use the USB upgrade method, please download the USB upgrade file from the product pages for the CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors located on your local Optoma website. You may also download the firmware updates by visiting the Customer Support pages.

*NOTE*: USB Versions will be available in the morning.

Below are the links;

USA and Canada - Service and support - Optoma USA

Europe -https://www.optomaeurope.com/service-and-support

Mexico - Servicio y soporte - Optoma Americas: México

Brazil - Serviço e suporte - Optoma Americas: Brasil

Once again, we truly apologize for the delay. At Optoma, we continue to strive to offer you the best in class customer service. If you have any further questions or concerns, please contact your local customer service representative via the links below;

USA and Canada - Contact us - Optoma USA

Europe - Contact us - Optoma Europe, Middle East, and Africa

Mexico - Contacte con nosotros - Optoma Americas: México

Brazil – Entre em contato conosco - Optoma Americas: Brasil


----------



## OPTOMA Official

*Releases Notes for CinemaX P2:*

CinemaX P2 FW Upgrade
July 20th, 2021

Version:
System FW: C13.2
DDP: C04
MCU: C07

** Factory Reset after update is recommended. From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to “Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default”. **

** Following the System FW/OS Update, you will be prompted to update the MCU and DDP when shutting down the projector. Please update the components to ensure stability. **

1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent.

2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings)
a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues.
b. This applies to the internal speaker only.

3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
a. This app is no longer supported.

4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
a. Added support for Discreet “Power Off” IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the product page for CinemaX P2 (under downloads).

5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of “zero or negative”
a. Audio Settings no longer display values of “zero or negative”.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

This is great, but I’m not buying until there’s a black version.


----------



## Salyangel

OPTOMA Official said:


> Everyone -- We apologize for the delay in the firmware release to address the HDMI 2.1 AVR issue. We have been working hard with our software development teams to find a solutions to the important concerns and issues raised in this forum.
> 
> Earlier this year, we made a commitment to provide the firmware upgrades and share information with you and we intend to honor our commitment to keep you informed.
> 
> We are pleased to announce the firmware updates for Optoma’s CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors is *NOW* *AVAILABLE*. The updates can be performed OTA (online – over the air) or via USB upgrade. To use the USB upgrade method, please download the USB upgrade file from the product pages for the CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors located on your local Optoma website. You may also download the firmware updates by visiting the Customer Support pages.
> 
> *NOTE*: USB Versions will be available in the morning.
> 
> Below are the links;
> 
> USA and Canada - Service and support - Optoma USA
> 
> Europe -https://www.optomaeurope.com/service-and-support
> 
> Mexico - Servicio y soporte - Optoma Americas: México
> 
> Brazil - Serviço e suporte - Optoma Americas: Brasil
> 
> Once again, we truly apologize for the delay. At Optoma, we continue to strive to offer you the best in class customer service. If you have any further questions or concerns, please contact your local customer service representative via the links below;
> 
> USA and Canada - Contact us - Optoma USA
> 
> Europe - Contact us - Optoma Europe, Middle East, and Africa
> 
> Mexico - Contacte con nosotros - Optoma Americas: México
> 
> Brazil – Entre em contato conosco - Optoma Americas: Brasil


It's impossible to update by USB FAT32 it's won't boot with the USB Key and with the network it's stopping downloading every 5 min... please Optoma do something stable to update!!!


----------



## ropeaz

Salyangel said:


> It's impossible to update by USB FAT32 it's won't boot with the USB Key and with the network it's stopping downloading every 5 min... please Optoma do something stable to update!!!


another issue here, a msg came up after the initial upgrade mentioning update the MCU and DDP drivers, that should take 30 minutes. It's now 20 hours and the projector does not turn on, just say with the temperature led in red and the power led kind of pink. I tried unplugging from power for a few minutes and when connected to power again, same thing, leds are on and project does not power on.


----------



## thenameisjoe

ropeaz said:


> another issue here, a msg came up after the initial upgrade mentioning update the MCU and DDP drivers, that should take 30 minutes. It's now 20 hours and the projector does not turn on, just say with the temperature led in red and the power led kind of pink. I tried unplugging from power for a few minutes and when connected to power again, same thing, leds are on and project does not power on.


Same EXACT issue here. Red temperature light is on and projector won’t turn on. Putting hand near inputs it does seem hot.


----------



## DunMunro

thenameisjoe said:


> Same EXACT issue here. Red temperature light is on and projector won’t turn on. Putting hand near inputs it does seem hot.


Sometimes, if you unplug a projector and hold down the power button for ~60 secs, this will clear the firmware and allow the projector to boot. I had to do this on my UHD50 after a firmware upgrade.


----------



## thenameisjoe

DunMunro said:


> Sometimes, if you unplug a projector and hold down the power button for ~60 secs, this will clear the firmware and allow the projector to boot. I had to do this on my UHD50 after a firmware upgrade.


Thanks. Unfortunately no luck so far. Spoke to tech support who suggested trying to reinstall the firmware via the usb. Didn’t work, nothing responds, just the red steady lights for the lamp and temperature led and pink light for the power. Waiting to get an RMA response back. Super disappointed.


----------



## ropeaz

thenameisjoe said:


> Thanks. Unfortunately no luck so far. Spoke to tech support who suggested trying to reinstall the firmware via the usb. Didn’t work, nothing responds, just the red steady lights for the lamp and temperature led and pink light for the power. Waiting to get an RMA response back. Super disappointed.


Same here, contacted support and sending the projector back for repair in the service center.


----------



## iDavros

Just got mine this weekend, but got a few issues with it.
Biggest problem is the image stutters unless I switch on game mode, which is not great. In game mode if I also active dynamic black then the right side of the picture flickers to black. Have tried different cables and different ports, but it still does it.

Can't find any thing like this in search but was wondering if anyone else has these issues?

Thanks!


----------



## mmoriarty75

Salyangel said:


> It's impossible to update by USB FAT32 it's won't boot with the USB Key and with the network it's stopping downloading every 5 min... please Optoma do something stable to update!!!


I have had a similar issue and not getting any response. Is there a hard reset that we can do?


----------



## Salyangel

update by the web is the only solution not by USB key


----------



## super kermit

Is there anyway to have the audio output from the projector at the same time as to a soundbar?


----------



## ilmousta

super kermit said:


> Is there anyway to have the audio output from the projector at the same time as to a soundbar?


I just tested this again just to be sure before posting, and yeah, it works. My P2 is connected to my Samsung HW-Q90R soundbar, and if I enable the P2's internal speaker, sound is coming from both sources.


----------



## mhilbush

OPTOMA Official said:


> 4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
> a. Added support for Discreet “Power Off” IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the product page for CinemaX P2 (under downloads).


This is a step in the right direction. Unfortunately, I cannot find any list of IR codes in the Downloads section (or anywhere else for that matter) on the product page. Can you please provide a link to the list, or simply post the list here?

Hopefully, when you do publish the complete list of IR codes, I also will find the following:

- Discrete IR code for Power On (of course would work only in SmartHome mode)

- Discrete IR codes for selecting HDMI Inputs 1, 2, and 3


----------



## Mick Seymour

mhilbush said:


> - Discrete IR codes for selecting HDMI Inputs 1, 2, and 3


+100!!!

I don't know of any other output device that does not have an IR code for input selection (of course I don't know them all )


----------



## chever00

Is anyone having problems with image highlights after the FW update(13.2). Scenes with white highlights now exhibit a strange yellow hue. I have tried 3 different sources and cables and have tinkered with various settings without remedy.


----------



## mhilbush

Mick Seymour said:


> I don't know of any other output device that does not have an IR code for input selection (of course I don't know them all )


I agree completely. And I wrote the GlobalCache integration for an open source smarthome platform so I've seen my fair share of devices.

And, BTW, I was able to get the latest IR codes from Optoma support (including the discrete power off code), so if anyone wants them I can post here (they're in NEC format but I've converted most to hex). Unfortunately, currently there are no discrete input selection codes. So, I asked that support pass along that request to engineering and/or product management.


----------



## dima1553

chever00 said:


> Is anyone having problems with image highlights after the FW update(13.2). Scenes with white highlights now exhibit a strange yellow hue. I have tried 3 different sources and cables and have tinkered with various settings without remedy.
> 
> View attachment 3165330


I was just about to ask the same. Seeing this behavior too since the last update.

Weird color shifts in the highlights. Its clearly visible on an 0-100% greychart:










I've tried all the HDMI Ports, all picture profiles and reset the unit to factory settings with no luck so far. Haven't heard back yet from their support. I really hope this can be resolved quickly. I was fairly pleased with the picture quality but this makes the device unenjoyable for most content.


----------



## chever00

dima1553 said:


> I was just about to ask the same. Seeing this behavior too since the last update.
> 
> Weird color shifts in the highlights. Its clearly visible on an 0-100% greychart:
> 
> View attachment 3166648
> 
> 
> I've tried all the HDMI Ports, all picture profiles and reset the unit to factory settings with no luck so far. Haven't heard back yet from their support. I really hope this can be resolved quickly. I was fairly pleased with the picture quality but this makes the device unenjoyable for most content.


Reducing the contrast does mitigate the effect if the brightness is set at 100% or below, but the effect is still present when using dynamic black as the colour is continually adjusting to achieve the best contrast. 

I raised a ticket with Optoma and they have asked for me to return the unit for inspection. I'm a little hesitant to go down that route so seeking advice from the vendor. But if other people are getting the same effect then it's probably due the latest firmware.


----------



## mhilbush

I'm having a couple issues for which I could use some advice/help.

- I used the Smart Fit manual mode to adjust the image to my screen. I'm happy with the result; however, every time I power on the projector it doesn't use the Smart Fit settings that I saved. The settings are only applied if I go into the Smart Fit app again, connect to the projector, and exit the app. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. The settings are obviously saved because they get applied when I run the Smart Fit app again without making any adjustments. They're just not applied when I power on the projector.

- I can't upgrade the firmware to the C13.2 version. The OTA update screen says I'm on the latest version (which is C07.2). When I try the USB upgrade method, the projector sees the USB drive (which contains the P1e_Upgrade.bin file). I know it sees the drive because it pops up a message on the lower right part of the screen about media files. But the upgrade process doesn't start.

Should I try doing a factory reset?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: I did a factory reset, but it didn't help with the Smart Fit issue. I'll just forego using Smart Fit and adjust the physical position of the projector to get the screen fit correct. I still can't figure out why I can't upgrade the firmware.


----------



## diginyu

OPTOMA Official said:


> *Releases Notes for CinemaX P2:*
> 
> CinemaX P2 FW Upgrade
> July 20th, 2021
> 
> Version:
> System FW: C13.2
> DDP: C04
> MCU: C07
> 
> ** Factory Reset after update is recommended. From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to “Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default”. **
> 
> ** Following the System FW/OS Update, you will be prompted to update the MCU and DDP when shutting down the projector. Please update the components to ensure stability. **
> 
> 1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
> a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
> b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
> c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent.
> 
> 2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings)
> a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues.
> b. This applies to the internal speaker only.
> 
> 3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
> a. This app is no longer supported.
> 
> 4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
> a. Added support for Discreet “Power Off” IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the product page for CinemaX P2 (under downloads).
> 
> 5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of “zero or negative”
> a. Audio Settings no longer display values of “zero or negative”.





dima1553 said:


> I was just about to ask the same. Seeing this behavior too since the last update.
> 
> Weird color shifts in the highlights. Its clearly visible on an 0-100% greychart:
> 
> View attachment 3166648
> 
> 
> I've tried all the HDMI Ports, all picture profiles and reset the unit to factory settings with no luck so far. Haven't heard back yet from their support. I really hope this can be resolved quickly. I was fairly pleased with the picture quality but this makes the device unenjoyable for most content.



I do notice the same colorshift, all the highlights in different sources (youtube, kodi) turns greenish yellow. I suppose it is caused by the update, tried to calibrate the projector with my i1display pro but the highlights are still acting weird with different colorshift.

Is there any possible way to revert the firmware?

EDIT: I've managed to downgrade the firmware to C07.2, as well as the DDU and MCP by using the USB method. If you would like to do so, the firmware can be obtain from the OPTOMA Taiwan website: https://www.optoma.com/tw/wp-content/uploads/sites/13/2020/09/P2韌體C07.2版更新SOP安裝程序含檔案連結-20210310.pdf

At first I put the MstarUpgrade.bin in my USB root however it did not trigger the update process, I then copy the same file and rename it to P1e_Upgrade.bin, so the file structure be like:
USB root
\MstarUpgrade.bin
\P1e_Upgrade.bin

I then plug it into the USB slot and viola, the firmware updated successfully along with the shutdown update for the MCP and DDU.

Conclusion: The greenish-yellow colorshift has been reduced, and color seems to be normal.

SECOND edit: The firmware downgrade doesn't seems to solve the problem, more information can be found at the post below.


----------



## chever00

Thanks for the firmware link but unfortunately it didn't make any difference to the issue. At the moment the only way I can watch anything is to reduce the contrast to a level that eliminates the yellowing, but also makes the image look flat. 

I've had the projector since April and this is my second unit as the first developed a fault. The dynamic black has never perform to a level that's watchable, always casting a red hue over the image and now this strange yellow gradient on highlights. It's taken Optoma quite a few months to get this firmware out, so I'm not confidence that this issue will ever get resolved.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Hello, this is unfortunate. Details on the source and content please?

Direct Connection or through AVR, Switch or Soundbar?



chever00 said:


> Is anyone having problems with image highlights after the FW update(13.2). Scenes with white highlights now exhibit a strange yellow hue. I have tried 3 different sources and cables and have tinkered with various settings without remedy.
> 
> View attachment 3165330


----------



## diginyu

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello, this is unfortunate. Details on the source and content please?
> 
> Direct Connection or through AVR, Switch or Soundbar?


Hi there, I have done some more testing after downgrading the firmware from 13.2 to 07.2, it appears the problem still exist. I doubt whether it is a hardware problem or a software fault.

My setting is a direct connection from shield tv pro to the P2, I've also tried using my soundbar passthrough and the result is still the same. No dynamic black involved as I'm using the Power 100% option. To allow others to replicate the situation, I am providing the youtube link of my test video below. 

First video:




Time: 3:00 - 3:20

The shadow on the floor and wall turned into greenish-yellow color block, and the artifact doesn't appear on TV and other display device.

Problem image here:


Spoiler















Second video:




Time: 0:04

All the shadow in the video turns into a greenish-yellow color block, and it should be grey in normal situation as shown on the TV.

Problem image here:


Spoiler















May I have a confirmation whether it is suppose to be normal for the P2? the contrast is not working correctly and it's pretty annoying to look at.


----------



## chever00

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello, this is unfortunate. Details on the source and content please?
> 
> Direct Connection or through AVR, Switch or Soundbar?


The sources are directly connected from an Xbox series X, PS5 and USB and all exhibit the same yellowing on any scene(a game, Netflix, Prime, Apple TV) that has highlights. 

I've attach a couple of screens to show before and after I reduce the contrast from 10 to -8 at 100% brightness. On dynamic black there's no way to dial out the yellowing.


----------



## dima1553

diginyu said:


> Hi there, I have done some more testing after downgrading the firmware from 13.2 to 07.2, it appears the problem still exist. I doubt whether it is a hardware problem or a software fault.
> 
> My setting is a direct connection from shield tv pro to the P2, I've also tried using my soundbar passthrough and the result is still the same. No dynamic black involved as I'm using the Power 100% option. To allow others to replicate the situation, I am providing the youtube link of my test video below.
> 
> First video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time: 3:00 - 3:20
> 
> The shadow on the floor and wall turned into greenish-yellow color block, and the artifact doesn't appear on TV and other display device.
> 
> Problem image here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3168270
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time: 0:04
> 
> All the shadow in the video turns into a greenish-yellow color block, and it should be grey in normal situation as shown on the TV.
> 
> Problem image here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3168269
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I have a confirmation whether it is suppose to be normal for the P2? the contrast is not working correctly and it's pretty annoying to look at.


Seeing the same behaviour.



OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello, this is unfortunate. Details on the source and content please?
> 
> Direct Connection or through AVR, Switch or Soundbar?


In my case it's a NVIDIA Shield Pro directly connected to the HDMI Ports and it affects different content (4K, HD, HDR, non-HDR).

I also could reproduce it when sending a simple greyscale test image from Davinci Resolve over an Blackmagic Mini Monitor, directly connected to an HDMI port to the projector.


----------



## Fogyreef

DunMunro said:


> Sometimes, if you unplug a projector and hold down the power button for ~60 secs, this will clear the firmware and allow the projector to boot. I had to do this on my UHD50 after a firmware upgrade.


Came here shopping for a new unit to replace my "dead" one. This just saved the day. 

Now, do I tell my wife it's not dead............


----------



## chever00

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello, this is unfortunate. Details on the source and content please?
> 
> Direct Connection or through AVR, Switch or Soundbar?


OPTOMA Official are there any updates on this issue?


----------



## dima1553

chever00 said:


> OPTOMA Official are there any updates on this issue?


Optoma Technical Support got back to me today. They said that it is possible that in certain cases a re-calibration (color and phosphor wheel) is necessary after the update. But for that I have to send it to their service center.


----------



## chever00

dima1553 said:


> Optoma Technical Support got back to me today. They said that it is possible that in certain cases a re-calibration (color and phosphor wheel) is necessary after the update. But for that I have to send it to their service center.


Thanks for the update 

I'm going to contact the shop I purchased it from and see what they recommend; it's only 4 months old!


----------



## diginyu

dima1553 said:


> Optoma Technical Support got back to me today. They said that it is possible that in certain cases a re-calibration (color and phosphor wheel) is necessary after the update. But for that I have to send it to their service center.


It's kind of a disappointment, at where I am located, Optoma local service center only provide a firmware reflash option, and no option of re-calibration. Meanwhile Optoma Taiwan (I believe it's their headquarter), is not even replying to my email at all after 2 weeks.

Would you mind to share the result after re-calibration if you decided to go down that road? Thanks!


----------



## chever00

diginyu said:


> It's kind of a disappointment, at where I am located, Optoma local service center only provide a firmware reflash option, and no option of re-calibration. Meanwhile Optoma Taiwan (I believe it's their headquarter), is not even replying to my email at all after 2 weeks.
> 
> Would you mind to share the result after re-calibration if you decided to go down that road? Thanks!


Mine got picked up yesterday, so will keep you updated with the result.


----------



## dima1553

chever00 said:


> Mine got picked up yesterday, so will keep you updated with the result.


Thanks for keeping us in the loop. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but will post my results too as soon as its done.


----------



## chever00

dima1553 said:


> Thanks for keeping us in the loop. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but will post my results too as soon as its done.


Ok, received the projector back yesterday and all is good. 

Initially they couldn't find anything wrong and asked if I could send over some images highlighting the issue. Turns out the Phosphor & Filter wheel index needed adjusting, whatever that is, but all looking good with the limited testing I've done.


----------



## dima1553

chever00 said:


> Ok, received the projector back yesterday and all is good.
> 
> Initially they couldn't find anything wrong and asked if I could send over some images highlighting the issue. Turns out the Phosphor & Filter wheel index needed adjusting, whatever that is, but all looking good with the limited testing I've done.


Thanks a lot for the Update! That gives me confidence, the technician I've been in contact with also talked about an Phosphor & Color Wheel. So let's hope for the best. In the meantime back to my 720p LG PH450...


----------



## DunMunro

Another P2 Review:









Optoma CinemaX P2 | Full Review


The category of Ultra Short Throw projectors is literally on fire and not unjustly so. Whoever sees a UST setup at least once, does not go back to the classic projection, at least judging by mυself. The reasons are many […]




www.projectorjunkies.com


----------



## Shoob

mhilbush said:


> I agree completely. And I wrote the GlobalCache integration for an open source smarthome platform so I've seen my fair share of devices.
> 
> And, BTW, I was able to get the latest IR codes from Optoma support (including the discrete power off code), so if anyone wants them I can post here (they're in NEC format but I've converted most to hex). Unfortunately, currently there are no discrete input selection codes. So, I asked that support pass along that request to engineering and/or product management.


If you could post the IR codes, I would appreciate it!


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## Shoob

My P2 arrived today, still in the box, and I was poking around looking for firmware info and I stumbled upon this:









CinemaX P2 Black Ultra short throw 4K UHD laser projector with smart features


<p>Part of the CinemaX series, this stylish ultra short throw projector delivers an unforgettable 4K UHD digital cinema quality image in the comfort of your own home. Laser technology provides accurate, true-to-life color reproduction with extensive DCI-P3 coverage – perfect for recreating the...




www.optomausa.com





I googled it and found it listed here also:









Optoma CinemaX D2 Smart 4K UHD 3000 Lumen Ultra Short Throw Laser TV Projector with Hako Mini 4K Media Player - Black - Optoma Optoma-CinemaX-D2-Smart-Black


Optoma's new CinemaX D2 Smart Projector - Black - UST Laser Home Cinema Projector. The Optoma CinemaX D2 Smart projector is an ultra short throw, laser 4k projector intended for use both in a dedicated home theater as well as in a well lit living room.




www.projectorscreen.com





This is a very a new development, yes?! I would very much prefer black!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Shoob said:


> My P2 arrived today, still in the box, and I was poking around looking for firmware info and I stumbled upon this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CinemaX D2 Smart 4K UHD 3000 Lumen Ultra Short Throw Laser TV Projector with Hako Mini 4K Media Player - Black - Optoma Optoma-CinemaX-D2-Smart-Black
> 
> 
> Optoma's new CinemaX D2 Smart Projector - Black - UST Laser Home Cinema Projector. The Optoma CinemaX D2 Smart projector is an ultra short throw, laser 4k projector intended for use both in a dedicated home theater as well as in a well lit living room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a very a new development, yes?! I would very much prefer black!


lol, you beat me to the announcement 

The P2 Back is officially here as on today 10/1. I'm _supposedly_ going to be the first to have them, expected in next week.

I'd been telling them from the start that they were foolish to go from a black P1 to a white P2 a year ago and even offered to pay for a private run of black P2s.

Unfortunately, the only difference with this new unit is the housing color and all of the specs are the same.

That being said, this is still one of the most rock solid USTs available and has been our most popular model since launch (as the P1 was before it) and still provides a great bang for the buck.

The white model will still be available as well.


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## ChrisIW

I'm getting a Cinemax P2 very soon but I'm struggling to understand how high I need to place the projector away from the screen. The manual gives a figure of H from the top of the projector to the bottom of the screen (visible area I assume) - but H isn't a set figure, it has a range from 8.501" to 12.668" for a 100" screen. I assume this is because there is a degree of image correction, but what should this gap be if I want the optimum vertical position away from the 100" screen with no image correction?

Any help would be much appreciated. I'm having someone come and build/install a Sapphire ALR screen in the next few weeks but I want the correct table height ready for when they arrive.


----------



## Mick Seymour

If my UHZ65UST is anything to go by, you will have to wait until the PJ arrives. I'm on my third due to hardware faults and each one needed to be a different height from the others. It depends on how the optics were fitted which, with QA on my model and the P1 being so poor, varies considerably. 

Fortunately, I installed the screen after the third one arrived.


----------



## Shoob

Has anybody had an issue with dynamic dimming? I’ve had my P2 black model for 3 weeks (~100 hours of laser time) and it recently started having a dramatic red tint whenever dynamic black is on. It’s noticeable on the lowest setting and it’s very, very noticeable on the highest, see the attached screenshot of an outer space movie. As you can see, the red tint is even on the grey menu background. I reset the projector, but it’s sadly still there. Is the dynamic dimming a hardware thing that can break?


----------



## Mick Seymour

I'd log that with Optoma support. It shouldn't look that bad even if greyscale is slightly off.

Does dynamic dimming off put the colours back to where they should be?


----------



## Shoob

Mick Seymour said:


> I'd log that with Optoma support. It shouldn't look that bad even if greyscale is slightly off.
> 
> Does dynamic dimming off put the colours back to where they should be?


It does look correct when off, yes. It definitely didn’t do this red tint thing before, I’m not sure what changed. I reset it again this morning, sadly still broken. Is the dynamic dimming done via software or hardware on the P2?


----------



## Shoob

I attached a video when it’s on DynamicBlack 3. You can see the algorithm turn off and on as the video changes and the very profound tint that it adds. It definitely wasn’t doing this before?!






The first photo is on 100% power, the second photo is on DynamicBlack 3.


----------



## Iron3

Le dynamick black n'a jamais vraiment fonctionné chez optoma j'avais déjà des soucis avec mon ancien uhz65 focale classique .
Avec le p2 c'est toujours le même souci de teinte rouge et de changement de couleur .que fait Optoma pour résorber ce problème : Rien ........... à ce niveau de prix c est inacceptable..... .tous les vp ust optoma sont impactés soit p1 ou p2 .
Optoma ont veux un correctif , vos produits ne sont finalisés...toujours des beugs ....


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## Shoob

I need some testing help! I’ve uploaded a 22 second .mp4 test clip that goes from bright to very dark. If you could play it on brightness mode DynamicBlack 3, it would very much help me narrow down if the red/pink tint is only on my P2 or if all P2’s have this problem.

I've also attached two screenshots of the difference on my projector, 100% brightness versus DynamicBlack3.

Google Drive P2DynamicBlackTest.mp4


----------



## oneil50

Shoob said:


> I need some testing help! I’ve uploaded a 22 second .mp4 test clip that goes from bright to very dark. If you could play it on brightness mode DynamicBlack 3, it would very much help me narrow down if the red/pink tint is only on my P2 or if all P2’s have this problem.
> 
> I've also attached two screenshots of the difference on my projector, 100% brightness versus DynamicBlack3.
> 
> Google Drive P2DynamicBlackTest.mp4


Exceptional film ! I think your projector has a problem. Even though I only use black dynamics at level 1, I have never seen a red tint like yours. I advise you to stay in level 1 or even 2. The problem is also manifested in these levels?


----------



## Shoob

oneil50 said:


> Exceptional film ! I think your projector has a problem. Even though I only use black dynamics at level 1, I have never seen a red tint like yours. I advise you to stay in level 1 or even 2. The problem is also manifested in these levels?


I was using level 1 and really liked the picture, but then I noticed the subtle red tint in that mode a ~week ago. I’ve only been using level 3 for testing because it’s so obvious and that makes easy to test with.

Sunshine is definitely a favorite of mine too!


----------



## chever00

Shoob said:


> I was using level 1 and really liked the picture, but then I noticed the subtle red tint in that mode a ~week ago. I’ve only been using level 3 for testing because it’s so obvious and that makes easy to test with.
> 
> Sunshine is definitely a favorite of mine too!





Shoob said:


> I was using level 1 and really liked the picture, but then I noticed the subtle red tint in that mode a ~week ago. I’ve only been using level 3 for testing because it’s so obvious and that makes easy to test with.
> 
> Sunshine is definitely a favorite of mine too!


I get exactly the same issue when using dynamic black(1-3), though it's been an issue since new.

The same issue has been reported numerous times on the P1 thread.


----------



## Shoob

chever00 said:


> I get exactly the same issue when using dynamic black(1-3), though it's been an issue since new.
> 
> The same issue has been reported numerous times on the P1 thread.
> View attachment 3204363


Thank you for testing! Very disappointing that it might not be a bad unit, but rather effects all of them.

Anybody else try?


----------



## Mick Seymour

Shoob said:


> Thank you for testing! Very disappointing that it might not be a bad unit, but rather effects all of them.


That doesn't mean to say it isn't a bad unit. In the screen shots it looks horrible.


----------



## chever00

Mick Seymour said:


> That doesn't mean to say it isn't a bad unit. In the screen shots it looks horrible.


This is my second unit as the first developed a fault and both exhibit the same effect, so assuming it's a characteristic. It's frustrating as you can't dial out the red as any adjustments get overwritten by the dynamic black algorithm.


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## justaround

Just have a hint in dynamic black 3.


----------



## Iron3

Optoma si tu nous lis sort ce correctif pour le DB. Tout le monde attends avec impatience....... 
A part ce problème J adore mon P2.


----------



## sOKRATEs100

Bought my projector 2 weeks ago. And I'm quite satisfied.... Ok, sharpness/focus in the right/left top corner is not the best. Got one random reboot so far. But besides this......

Not sure, if reported already:

Frame interpolation does not work in 3d mode (1080p 24p material) nor for 4k60hz content. For 4k24p it works fine.

@OPTOMA Official : Will you implement these algorithms in one of your next firmware releases?
By the way, any news about the special gaming mode that seems to have problems and any improvements in seight with the "dynamic black" mode?

@All: What about the streaming capabilities? Has this been fixed since P1 and is working on P2?



> The Netflix and Amazon Prime Video apps weirdly don't support 4K HDR


 (https://www.engadget.com/2020-02-26-optoma-cinemax-p1-review.html)


----------



## humax

Optoma CinemaX P2 vs Fengmi Cinema Pro 4K - YouTube 

Optoma CinemaX P2 vs Fengmi Cinema Pro 4K.


----------



## oneil50

humax said:


> Optoma CinemaX P2 vs Fengmi Cinema Pro 4K - YouTube
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P2 vs Fengmi Cinema Pro 4K.


Nice video but what are Optoma parameters for dynamic black ?
I think this is off.


----------



## humax

oneil50 said:


> Nice video but what are Optoma parameters for dynamic black ?
> I think this is off.


You can post this in the comments section of the video, in order to receive an answer about his DB setting. He is also a calibrator, so he should know about setting these units properly.


----------



## Filipch

Hello,
please advise. I bought a new Optoma P2 projector and when playing a video a thin disturbing strip appears around the video, see the picture. Is it a defect in the projector or it is normal?
But I don't know why it's displayed only around the video. I don't see anything in the projector menu.
Thank you


----------



## Iron3

Il faut réduire le paramètre de netteté à +4. 
Tu as une shield pro ? 
C est du a un traitement de netteté trop poussé de l image.


----------



## Filipch

Oh thank you very much. I have reduced sharpness and the line is almost invisible.


----------



## Newbiehere3

Hi all - new P2 owner here. 

I can’t seem to get my HDMI arc sound output working. It’s a sonos beam - which I’ve never had any issue connecting to any projector or TV - it recognizes the HDMI input, but I can’t get it to play sound…nor can I find a “sound output” option to change.
Any advice is appreciated!


----------



## javayoda

I've had the P2 since June and I've been pretty happy with it. Recently, I'd thought I'd experiment with "PureMotion" interpolation (I normally have it off). When it's on, the screen glitches randomly - it's completely unusable. It does this on all 24p sources. It used to work fine but I can't remember if I last tried it before the firmware update in July. Has anyone else seen this?


----------



## bk 1937

I got a new P2 and currently projecting on the wall (waiting for the screen to arrive) and I see that the image is kinda narrowing down at the bottom or should I say it's tilted?. I understand the wall is not level and the reason why the image is wavy at the top but I don't understand why the image is narrowing down at the bottom on both sides. One side being more prominent though. Could it be because of Projector position? Display settings? or the Projector itself? I did not find any display settings that would help me with positioning the image. Can you guys please take a look at the images and let me know your thoughts.


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## oneil50

bk 1937 said:


> I got a new P2 and currently projecting on the wall (waiting for the screen to arrive) and I see that the image is kinda narrowing down at the bottom or should I say it's tilted?. I understand the wall is not level and the reason why the image is wavy at the top but I don't understand why the image is narrowing down at the bottom on both sides. One side being more prominent though. Could it be because of Projector position? Display settings? or the Projector itself? I did not find any display settings that would help me with positioning the image. Can you guys please take a look at the images and let me know your thoughts.
> View attachment 3231850
> View attachment 3231856


Tyy to put skates on the two back feet to raise it slightly. Image should be fine after this step.


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## NymnNymn

I was gonna mention raising the two front feet a tad. It’s the uneven 90 degrees between the floor and wall. pj is just fine! Fiddle around with it. You’ll be fine 👍


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## Poo001

Hi, having read some of the comments I see a few people had problems getting firmware to update . I am on 7.2 and when I turn on projector to update to 13.2 it simply reads usb ad media and does not pickup .bin update file . I have tried 3 usb sticks and down loaded and unzipped on 2 computers . Did anyone find a solution to this ?

Thanks


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## danielgary

I've been struggling to flash the latest firmware update on my projector so I decided to start tinkering with it since it's Android and see what I could do, and I'm looking for help from anyone on here who can get a bit further than me. So far here is what I can do:

1. Enable developer mode
2. Connect with adb
3. Reboot into recovery mode

At this point, there are options for flashing an image, but apparently it won't accept the .bin firmware file.

Here are the steps for getting as far as I have:

1. Connect a USB keyboard to one of the non-service-port USB ports
2. Press Windows + N to drop down the top bar
3. Press tab until the gear icon is selected, press enter to open the Android Settings
4. Go down to About, then highlight the Build number, press enter 8 times to enable developer mode
5. Get the IP address of the projector, connect from your PC using adb connect IP_ADDRESS:5555
6. Execute adb reboot recovery

At that point I'm not sure what else to do. You can also browse the existing apps from the Android Settings screen and there are even some hidden system apps in there for changing various projector settings, but I can't find anything to flash the firmware. Just thought I would share my progress so others could chime in and hopefully figure out what I'm missing.


I'm pretty sure with this method you can sideload the google play APKs and have a fully functioning Android device.


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## danielgary

Poo001 said:


> Hi, having read some of the comments I see a few people had problems getting firmware to update . I am on 7.2 and when I turn on projector to update to 13.2 it simply reads usb ad media and does not pickup .bin update file . I have tried 3 usb sticks and down loaded and unzipped on 2 computers . Did anyone find a solution to this ?
> 
> Thanks


Just got off the phone with Optoma with a fix

1. Reformat the USB drive to FAT32 again
2. Rename the P1e_Upgrade.bin file to MstarUpgrade.bin
3. Copy it to the root folder of your USB drive
4. Make sure it is the ONLY file on the USB drive
5. Make sure your projector is disconnected from power
6. Plug the USB drive into the USB nearest your HDMI 1 port
7. Reconnect power and press the power button and wait.

They desperately need to update their documentation.


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## Poo001

Thankyou for this . Although it didn't update it did seem to put my pj in a loop where it stopped it booting . I tried a USB with the p1e bin on and it worked to update . So now all updated and back to dynamic black issue !


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## Salyangel

Is anyone can share his setting for SDR and HDR after the last update?


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## NymnNymn

Yes, I would also very much appreciate a post update HDR settings recommendation. Mine is in a Dedicated room. Thank you very much!


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## hardrock_121

Got the new projector last week and right out of the box I can't connect to wifi ... tried wps that didn't work.. wifi works fine and its not in the dead zone as.i have a deco mesh and one of the nodes in the same room... even tho the main one is less than 20 ft away. I can't run a ethernet so now I m stuck and might have to return it.. anyone else had the same issue and know how to solve it ?
I can see it scanning .. I see the ssids.. I enter the pwd It says connecting and goes back to saved. I try a couple of times it says couldn't obtain ipaddress. rinse and repeat.


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## Poo001

hardrock_121 said:


> Got the new projector last week and right out of the box I can't connect to wifi ... tried wps that didn't work.. wifi works fine and its not in the dead zone as.i have a deco mesh and one of the nodes in the same room... even tho the main one is less than 20 ft away. I can't run a ethernet so now I m stuck and might have to return it.. anyone else had the same issue and know how to solve it ?
> I can see it scanning .. I see the ssids.. I enter the pwd It says connecting and goes back to saved. I try a couple of times it says couldn't obtain ipaddress. rinse and repeat.


Try if you can turning off 5ghz. Mine connects on 5ghz but smart fit etc only seems to work on 2.4ghz

Also latest firmware does not update over air so might be work going to optoma website and updating FW (then drivers will update when you turn off projector after update) with a usb drive see if that helps


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## hardrock_121

Poo001 said:


> Try if you can turning off 5ghz. Mine connects on 5ghz but smart fit etc only seems to work on 2.4ghz
> 
> Also latest firmware does not update over air so might be work going to optoma website and updating FW (then drivers will update when you turn off projector after update) with a usb drive see if that helps


I didn't get you .. you mean you update the fw by downloading to usb and rebooting the projector? I ll try turning of 5ghz and trying ..


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## Poo001

hardrock_121 said:


> I didn't get you .. you mean you update the fw by downloading to usb and rebooting the projector? I ll try turning of 5ghz and trying ..


Yes go to optoma website down load update for p2 . Unzip file and copy .bin file to a USB (root path / formattedto fat 32). Turn of projector plug in USB to USB slit next to hdmi 1 . After update it will add you if you want to update drivers


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## ThatWasCrazyRight?

Will this be usable in a living room like this?
I'm moving here so I'm thinking of having the couch under the window and the projector screen on the big white wall (from the window to the white wall is around 3.5 meters) It will be the first time I'm buying a projector instead of a tv. I will use it with the curtain both open and closed depending on how much sun comes in and also having the lights on sometimes. I will also use it to watch movies at night in the dark.

I have seen other projectors that are recommended for light rooms, but they all seem to have long-throw which doesn't work in my room seeing as I want at least 100", but most likely closer to 120-130".


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## Mick Seymour

There is a *lot* of light coming into your room. I too have a white room with lots of windows.

During a sunny day, I use blackout blinds on the windows where the sun comes in. This stops reflections around the walls and means I can leave the open-plan kitchen windows, similar to yours, with no blinds.

Get yourself an ALR screen and during the day, the picture is good enough. At night in the dark it will be stunning.

Be prepared to have the rear of the projector up to 45cm away from the wall if you want a 120" picture.


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## ThatWasCrazyRight?

I will buy an ALR screen at some time, but is it necessary, or is it still watchable in daytime without it in my apartment? 

I can use a blacked-out curtain and have it down if needed to with lights also off.

I'm also not expecting the feel of a $3000+TV, especially not when the sun is still up, but if it's watchable without having to clench my eyes I'm more than happy tbh. I'm used to having cheap 4K TV (around $500-1000) and I have also watched a lot of my dads 2016 $6000 OLED and his 2020 $5000 OLED and for me I never felt like the cheap average 4K TV was hard to go back to. So I don't care that much about quality as long it's watchable.


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## Mick Seymour

If your wall is fairly flat, you can try without a screen first. That is what I did and it worked OK, but my wall was painted with a paint with lumps in it (a special finish, don't know what it is called) so I really needed a screen.


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## peterjcat

Has anyone managed to get the discrete power on/off codes working? There is now a document on the Optoma website that says 71 is the hex code for power on and 79 for power off. 



https://www.optomausa.com/ContentStorage/Documents/1fd35def-25dd-4ee0-b406-11fb0103c183.pdf



But for me, 71 gives the same behaviour as the existing power toggle (eg turns the PJ on if it's off, and gives the shutdown option if it's on) and 79 doesn't do anything. I'm on C13.2/C07/C04.


----------



## Shoob

[


peterjcat said:


> Has anyone managed to get the discrete power on/off codes working? There is now a document on the Optoma website that says 71 is the hex code for power on and 79 for power off.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.optomausa.com/ContentStorage/Documents/1fd35def-25dd-4ee0-b406-11fb0103c183.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> But for me, 71 gives the same behaviour as the existing power toggle (eg turns the PJ on if it's off, and gives the shutdown option if it's on) and 79 doesn't do anything. I'm on C13.2/C07/C04.


Yeah, the discrete power off code does not work. I sent an email (I believe somebody else in this thread did too) about it to support but nothing ever happened.


----------



## peterjcat

Thanks, glad it’s not just me.


----------



## deuse

colonius said:


> Yes, here. I am using the Vividstorm 120" motorized (rising) ALR screen with the P2. A few observation:
> 
> 
> The SmartFit app does not work *at all* with this setup, to a point where I was ready to return the P2
> Manual (moving the projector) fitting is a pain in the posterior and you never get it quite right.
> The geometrical correction with the P2 remote works. It is still quite painful to use.
> I decided to adjust the projector image to remain just inside the super-thin black side boundaries of the screen (top and especially bottom is wider). Note that the screen has some height adjust-ability as well.
> However, I see no way that you would get the picture exactly aligned without having either some overscan onto the wall behind the screen or going just slightly below the actual screen size.


Hi I wonder if you can help me.

I have the vividstorm 120" floor rising screen like you.
Can you tell me how much below the P2 has to go to the vividstorm case?
Setting the screen up is not as easy as they make out 

This is my first setup and UST projector. So be kind


----------



## Poo001

I have the same the base of screen 100mm 4' above the projector. 

I have mine set up to have approx 25mm boarder on all 4 sides of picture


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## deuse

Poo001 said:


> I have the same the base of screen 100mm 4' above the projector.
> 
> I have mine set up to have approx 25mm boarder on all 4 sides of picture
> View attachment 3249874



Thank you.
By looking at that I need to bring the P2 down a lot.

My P2 is about 2" lower from the top of the case the screen goes in.
Wish that made units with adjustable legs.

Do you know why the P2 has no adjustable legs\things at the back?
Thanks again


----------



## Poo001

I didnt realise till I got the vividstorn that it needed to be so much higher . Vivid storm should allow more than the 370mm they do on there larger screens. Even with my idea hack unit I made with the projector in it the screen still protrudes over the top

It would be easier to level up if the rear legs were adjustable but guess that's the design they went with


----------



## deuse

Poo001 said:


> I didnt realise till I got the vividstorn that it needed to be so much higher . Vivid storm should allow more than the 370mm they do on there larger screens. Even with my idea hack unit I made with the projector in it the screen still protrudes over the top
> 
> It would be easier to level up if the rear legs were adjustable but guess that's the design they went with



I could try raising the screen first.
But that would look odd.

I think the P2 has come down about 4". As I have a 4" gap at the bottom of the screen and the side have a 2-3 inch gap.

I did try the auto app. But it doesn't work and the Warp option only pulls the screen in.
Now to find a unit.


----------



## Poo001

Not sure if this link works but finish my alexa


----------



## deuse

Poo001 said:


> Not sure if this link works but finish my alexa



Thank you very much.

I have just been told by optoma that a new Smart app will be out soon.

May I ask if your P2 was low at the back out the box?
My surface is level. But the back needs about 1 inch thick shim to get it near.

Thanks.


----------



## Poo001

It sounds like something is wrong as on a flat surface that shouldn't be the case I need to raise the front on mine as my floor is flat ! More on one side than the other . Are you sure any screen adjustment is off ? If not I would talk to optoma


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## Poo001

Also hope the smart app works better as I struggle with it on 5ghz. And my router only has auto . Ie no option to name 5 and 2 ghz separately


----------



## deuse

Poo001 said:


> It sounds like something is wrong as on a flat surface that shouldn't be the case I need to raise the front on mine as my floor is flat ! More on one side than the other . Are you sure any screen adjustment is off ? If not I would talk to optoma



The unit it is slightly raised at the back.
I will get someone to come in and look at it for me.

I did ask optoma to get the app to work with vividstorm. But I doubt it will.


----------



## Poo001

I use a broadlink rm4 to trigger my screen and apple tv (i had to set the apple tv up to be controlled with another control so ir worked) . It works well with rf and ir devices and ties them I to home automation routines


----------



## deuse

Poo001 said:


> I use a broadlink rm4 to trigger my screen and apple tv (i had to set the apple tv up to be controlled with another control so ir worked) . It works well with rf and ir devices and ties them I to home automation routines



I have a broadlink mini. I will try it later.

The picture is now 1.5 inch from the left and right sides. And 3 inch's from the bottom.
That will do for me until I can sort out a unit or a adjustable projector floor stand.

Again. Thank you for your help.


----------



## Poo001

Your nearly there🤞 . Just need to raise screen a bit . Have mine about 1.5 inches all round so there is not any overthrown of light on the wall . I don't think ust projectors can be considered tv replacement truly till they are eaier to set up . Because I like fiddling with tech and diy that no issue but most find it too much. Every time I move something or add bits to my unit it takes a week of small adjustmentsto get it 100% again ..


----------



## deuse

Poo001 said:


> Your nearly there🤞 . Just need to raise screen a bit . Have mine about 1.5 inches all round so there is not any overthrown of light on the wall . I don't think ust projectors can be considered tv replacement truly till they are eaier to set up . Because I like fiddling with tech and diy that no issue but most find it too much. Every time I move something or add bits to my unit it takes a week of small adjustmentsto get it 100% again ..



I have just printed out some 5" square X 1/2 thick to get the screen higher 
Lets see what happens.

Edit.I raised it 3 inch's .I will have to turn the front screws in and start again. As I have a bow at the top of the screen 

Edit 2= I now need a 6 1/2 in high table or top.


----------



## Olip1605

chever00 said:


> Reducing the contrast does mitigate the effect if the brightness is set at 100% or below, but the effect is still present when using dynamic black as the colour is continually adjusting to achieve the best contrast.
> 
> I raised a ticket with Optoma and they have asked for me to return the unit for inspection. I'm a little hesitant to go down that route so seeking advice from the vendor. But if other people are getting the same effect then it's probably due the latest firmware.


 Hey there. Did you get a solution on this? I have noticed it as well and have had a bunch of back and forth emails with Optoma who now want me to return it for inspection which I'm also hesitant to do


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## chever00

Olip1605 said:


> Hey there. Did you get a solution on this? I have noticed it as well and have had a bunch of back and forth emails with Optoma who now want me to return it for inspection which I'm also hesitant to do


Hey, yep returned the unit back to Optoma for recalibration which took about 2 weeks, but happy to report that the issue is now fixed. 

Mine was shipped to OPTOMA EUROPE HEMEL HEMPSTEAD, and the unit came back with no scratches, scuffs or marks, so I was relieved.


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## m.tatara1989

Hello, what can You say about the 3D image in this projector? Does it make sense to consider buying a P2 that has this feature vs for example Samsung lsp7t that doesn't? Is 3D in this type of projectors at all worthy of attention, or is it rather a minor addition? Thanks in advance for the answer


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## Mick Seymour

I love the 3D from this projector. If you like 3D movies, it is worth it.


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## m.tatara1989

One more question... Did anyone use P2 with Samsung Q950A Soundbar (+subwoofer + speakers) ? Is the combination of these 2 devices seamless and working properly?


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## ilmousta

m.tatara1989 said:


> One more question... Did anyone use P2 with Samsung Q950A Soundbar (+subwoofer + speakers) ? Is the combination of these 2 devices seamless and working properly?


I use P2 with Q90R, so pretty much the same. It's working as it should have.


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## oneil50

Mick Seymour said:


> I love the 3D from this projector. If you like 3D movies, it is worth it.


+1
3D on this projector is far better than my last BenQ. The best 3D I've ever seen for the moment.


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## Poo001

Just wandering what other peoples experience is with dynamic black on the p1 p2 or other optoma pj 

As you can see it makes my picture vary purple. 

I have arranged for it to go back to optoma, just wandering if anyone else has had this issue


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## oneil50

Poo001 said:


> Just wandering what other peoples experience is with dynamic black on the p1 p2 or other optoma pj
> 
> As you can see it makes my picture vary purple.
> 
> I have arranged for it to go back to optoma, just wandering if anyone else has had this issue


You can adjuste red level in screen parameters of the PJ. Mine is on -1 for red but you can add +1 on blue and green instead of red.
Why your center speaker is not between screen and VP ?

(Monitor audio rocks)


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## Poo001

I tried adjusting red level but it didn't fix .its just the dynamic black that does this in some scenes as it switches 

The centre speaker is to deep to fit so it has to go underneath unfortunately 😒

I have changed so the speaker comes out with the pj now though s


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## oneil50

Poo001 said:


> I tried adjusting red level but it didn't fix .its just the dynamic black that does this in some scenes as it switches
> 
> The centre speaker is to deep to fit so it has to go underneath unfortunately
> 
> I have changed so the speaker comes out with the pj now though s


Did you adjust the right red level ? My P1 got same setting than P2.
In the rvb settings. One of these is for red in high brightness and the second for low brightness.
It's works normally. 

My monitor audio center is between 100" screen and PJ.


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## Poo001

Hi I spent months making adjustments all settings and talking to optoma to adjust 

Yes but I have a 120 vivid storm floor rising screan so unfortunately can only go to the caseing and thats appox 160mm from wall so it's to far forward


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## m.tatara1989

oneil50 said:


> +1
> 3D on this projector is far better than my last BenQ. The best 3D I've ever seen for the moment.


If you were to compare this to cinematic 3D on a scale of 1 to 10? I have a dilemma between Optoma P2 and Samsung lsp7t, which does not have 3D functions, but it has a much better interface (Tizen) and supports Netflix, YouTube etc in 4K without any problem where I read that Optoma needs for this, for example, Nvidia Shield which in 2022 is a bit weak for me... I wonder if 3D is worth choosing Optoma, especially since from what I see it works only in FullHD, which with an image of 100 inches can be average, although I prefer to just ask about the real user experience. Thanks in advance for your honest opinion


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## m.tatara1989

Mick Seymour said:


> I love the 3D from this projector. If you like 3D movies, it is worth it.


If you were to compare this to cinematic 3D on a scale of 1 to 10? I have a dilemma between Optoma P2 and Samsung lsp7t, which does not have 3D functions, but it has a much better interface (Tizen) and supports Netflix, YouTube etc in 4K without any problem where I read that Optoma needs for this, for example, Nvidia Shield which in 2022 is a bit weak for me... I wonder if 3D is worth choosing Optoma, especially since from what I see it works only in FullHD, which with an image of 100 inches can be average, although I prefer to just ask about the real user experience. Thanks in advance for your honest opinion


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## Poo001

The optoma smart interface is useless. I use and apple tv 4k which even added to cost of pj was allot less also atmos from apple for surround sound system through receiver. 

Just a tip if you use apple set up volume for apple remote if using pj sound prior to connecting it by bluetooth

Even a fire stick is a good cheep option 

Only my personal opinion I wouldn't buy tv or pj purely for os system as they Only update short term .


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## oneil50

m.tatara1989 said:


> If you were to compare this to cinematic 3D on a scale of 1 to 10? I have a dilemma between Optoma P2 and Samsung lsp7t, which does not have 3D functions, but it has a much better interface (Tizen) and supports Netflix, YouTube etc in 4K without any problem where I read that Optoma needs for this, for example, Nvidia Shield which in 2022 is a bit weak for me... I wonder if 3D is worth choosing Optoma, especially since from what I see it works only in FullHD, which with an image of 100 inches can be average, although I prefer to just ask about the real user experience. Thanks in advance for your honest opinion


My opinion is 9/10 for 3D. Only -1 because sometimes (1 for 20) PJ got a split screen when switching from 4k to 3D.
1080p for 100" is not weak. 
Interface on OPTOMA is bad but you can use a firestick for 50 euro. This method is better if you are using an amp with Dolby Atmos. 
The Samsung projector got a tuner for receiving television. I don't know if your country use this technology but it could be useful for you.


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## peterjcat

3D seems great when it works but I'm having trouble finding the right glasses -- at the moment I am using Boblov 144Hz DLP Link glasses but they often lose sync during a movie -- there's a blue wash over the screen (I think that the PJ is using a blue flash for sync) and it'll sometimes resolve but other times the 3D effect will disappear completely and when it comes back it will often be inverted.

Can anyone who uses 3D on the P2 report on what glasses they're using and whether they have or have had any issues? If there's a way to solve the issues on the Boblovs that would be great as I've got heaps of them! I don't know if the blue sync flash is being washed out by what's happening on the screen and whether any changes to brightness/contrast/colour might help. I've tried a few things but nothing seems to make much difference.

I'm using an Elite Screens CLR tab-tension, I don't know if the CLR material could be making a difference.


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## oneil50

I'm using these glasses :








46.28US $ 48% OFF|Active Shutter 96 144HZ Rechargeable 3D Glasses For BenQ Acer X118H P1502 X1123H H6517ABD H6510BD Optoma JmGo V8 XGIMI Projector|3D Glasses/ Virtual Reality Glasses| - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




a.aliexpress.com





Bought many years ago and still working for a low price.
My PJ is using a green flash for sync.... 
I loss sync only when glasses are not in front of screen for more than 5 sec.


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## Mick Seymour

Those look identical to the Boblov, same spec as well, I've been using for a couple of years.

They do lose sync occasionally when something happening on screen hides the sync flash; a screen full of white train steam in Hugo for example. When it happens, I just click the sync button on the top of them and everything is perfect again.


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## NymnNymn

I initially tried a set of the Boblove 3d glasses, which look very much like the ones you posted, but were terrible! I read some reviews and went with the Ultimate 3DHeaven glasses and they are AWESOME! 3d looks smooth with incredible depth!


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## peterjcat

Thanks all. I’ve been looking for the 3DHeaven ones but they don’t seem to be available at the moment. I’ve ordered some that look similar off Alibaba, will report back when they arrive!


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## Mikel O.

Poo001 said:


> Just wandering what other peoples experience is with dynamic black on the p1 p2 or other optoma pj
> 
> As you can see it makes my picture vary purple.
> 
> I have arranged for it to go back to optoma, just wandering if anyone else has had this issue



I was experiencing the same problem as you, but as I dind't use dynamic black and the other functions were fine I was not much concerned about it.

However, after the last update some yellow halos started to appear in skin tones and sky pictures (also reported by some users in this forum) which was really annoying, so I decided to contact Optoma Service.

At first they replied and made spend some hours sending them pictures of the problem and details about my setup, after that they never replied back, so I can say, that at least in Spain the Optoma service is rubbish.

So, I looked for information and found that these projectors have a service menu, which you can access by pressing in the remote { POWER, UP, RIGHT, UP, LEFT, MENU } The following screen will appear:










I entered the calibration submenu and ran the two calibration options, now at least the yellow halos are gone and the dynamyc black is usable at level 2. It even works fine at level 3 in bright picture mode now.

I have not tried any other options as I don't know what they are for so if any of you decide to use it make it at your own risk.


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## heavyharmonies

peterjcat said:


> Thanks all. I’ve been looking for the 3DHeaven ones but they don’t seem to be available at the moment. I’ve ordered some that look similar off Alibaba, will report back when they arrive!


Maker's website:



3D Glasses for 3D Televisions



I don't know that the different versions for differnet brands and TVs vs. projectors are actually different in any way; it may just be sales/marketing. They're also on Amazon, but only as a 4-pack for $149.95.


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## Mick Seymour

Mikel O. said:


> I entered the calibration submenu and ran the two calibration options, now at least the yellow halos are gone and the dynamyc black is usable at level 2. It even works fine at level 3 in bright picture mode now


What does the calibration option do? Does it show something on screen?


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## Mikel O.

Mick Seymour said:


> What does the calibration option do? Does it show something on screen?


The calibration submenu doesn`t show anything on screen, when I ran the calibration the screen just appeared white for a few seconds and the returned to normal.

regards


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## Shoob

Mikel O. said:


> The calibration submenu doesn`t show anything on screen, when I ran the calibration the screen just appeared white for a few seconds and the returned to normal.
> 
> regards


I wonder what those calibration settings are actually doing. I’m also one of those that has dynamic brightness color issues, but I’d like more info before messing around in the calibration service menu!


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## Poo001

OPTOMA say this is normal for dynamic black . To me it makes it useless so there claimed contrast is impossible to get . I would be interested to know if others get colour variations when used !

Thanks


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## Poo001

Thank you for this . I missed it originally. My pj has been back to optoma uk and they say it works as it should . Or there words "within manufacture tolerance" there customer service to me is awful as its all by email and solved nothing in my case 🤨 over months . I first contacted them in January about dynamic black . 

It's ashame as the good things are great . Just my two issues and their customer service do over shadow it . 

Owe well I guess brand loyalty doesn't matter to them


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## Shoob

Poo001 said:


> OPTOMA say this is normal for dynamic black . To me it makes it useless so there claimed contrast is impossible to get . I would be interested to know if others get colour variations when used !
> 
> Thanks





Poo001 said:


> Thank you for this . I missed it originally. My pj has been back to optoma uk and they say it works as it should . Or there words "within manufacture tolerance" there customer service to me is awful as its all by email and solved nothing in my case 🤨 over months . I first contacted them in January about dynamic black .
> 
> It's ashame as the good things are great . Just my two issues and their customer service do over shadow it .
> 
> Owe well I guess brand loyalty doesn't matter to them


This is exactly what mine does as well. It’s really too bad that they can’t fix it.


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## okvcos

Shoob said:


> This is exactly what mine does as well. It’s really too bad that they can’t fix it.


I had the UHZ65 model with the exact same defect (right to say crap adjustment), I suggest you do the color calibration with the dinamic black 1 activated. 
Now I have a Xiaomi C2 .... and gentlemen ... it wins on all fronts


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## Poo001

Thanks, I will give it a try . 👍


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## Shoob

Poo001 said:


> Thanks, I will give it a try . 👍


Keep us updated!🤞


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## Poo001

Shoob said:


> This is exactly what mine does as well. It’s really too bad that they can’t fix it.


Hey Shoob,

Give it a go . I think it's better ie the purple has gone form dynamic 1 and 2 . But of course its your risk but it didn't brick my p2


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## Shoob

Poo001 said:


> Hey Shoob,
> 
> Give it a go . I think it's better ie the purple has gone form dynamic 1 and 2 . But of course its your risk but it didn't brick my p2


Just to verify, these are the steps that you followed?



Mikel O. said:


> I was experiencing the same problem as you, but as I dind't use dynamic black and the
> 
> So, I looked for information and found that these projectors have a service menu, which you can access by pressing in the remote { POWER, UP, RIGHT, UP, LEFT, MENU } The following screen will appear:
> 
> View attachment 3272762


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## Poo001

Hi Yes, but just a note after running both calibrations . Needed to turn off pj for changes to take effect .


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## deuse

Poo001 said:


> OPTOMA say this is normal for dynamic black . To me it makes it useless so there claimed contrast is impossible to get . I would be interested to know if others get colour variations when used !
> 
> Thanks



I have just tried that setting in 1080p and I have no purple.
Would you like me to try in in another rez?


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## Poo001

Hi thank you at least I know it was my pj . I do watch most stuff in 4k a mainly use a apple tv 4k and that upscale although have tried 1080 as well and that was purple too


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## deuse

Poo001 said:


> Hi thank you at least I know it was my pj . I do watch most stuff in 4k a mainly use a apple tv 4k and that upscale although have tried 1080 as well and that was purple too



So I have tried my android stick. An Amazon 4k Stick. Virgin media V6 box @4k and 1080p
My PC @4k and I have no purple what so ever.

Did you get it from richer? if so they could help you.


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## Poo001

Thank you for this . I got it from ao who have been great .its optoma that have been very slow and told me it's not an issue after returning it to them


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## sOKRATEs100

Hi,

anyone have noticed the not perfect working frame interpolation algotithm and got distracted? I notice it when scences are changing from dart to a bright or vice versa at 50p content like watching movies straight from online sources (I am using KODI and a x86 PC as input source). Will have another look at some other refresh rates during the next couple of days and will mention it here again. Any ideas if Optoma is willing to improve this part of the software with a new firmware version?

By the way, what experiences have you made with the Optoma operating system itself so far?

Many thank, Dennis


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## Betelgeuse7777

Hi everyone ! 

Recently my Cinemax P2 started to be more and more noisy.
I checked on the hidden menu and the fan regularly goes up to 1600 rpm, sometimes even to 1900 RPM.
When the fans goes down to something like 1400 RPM it is really quiet again.
I can see the values on it but I can't modify anything like in a Bios of a computer.

I tried to factory reset the unit but it didn't solve the matter.
Sadly Optoma support was no help and they just suggested me to send them the unit.

Does anyone else has the problem ?
I use geometry correction because my setup is not perfect, I wonder if it is linked.
Does anyone has already cleaned their unit ? And if so, how ?

Thanks in advance !


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## GeobilgiVR

Salyangel said:


> It's impossible to update by USB FAT32 it's won't boot with the USB Key and with the network it's stopping downloading every 5 min... please Optoma do something stable to update!!!


 I have that same problem


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## GeobilgiVR

Salyangel said:


> It's impossible to update by USB FAT32 it's won't boot with the USB Key and with the network it's stopping downloading every 5 min... please Optoma do something stable to update!!!


I couldn't find a solution


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## GeobilgiVR

danielgary said:


> Just got off the phone with Optoma with a fix
> 
> 1. Reformat the USB drive to FAT32 again
> 2. Rename the P1e_Upgrade.bin file to MstarUpgrade.bin
> 3. Copy it to the root folder of your USB drive
> 4. Make sure it is the ONLY file on the USB drive
> 5. Make sure your projector is disconnected from power
> 6. Plug the USB drive into the USB nearest your HDMI 1 port
> 7. Reconnect power and press the power button and wait.
> 
> They desperately need to update their documentation.


Tnxxxxxx it worked


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## moris.jk

Hi, I'm a noob when it comes to UST. However, I know that a gray CLR screen is recommended for this type of projector.

My question would be: What disadvantages would a white one with 1.1 gain have? Usage is exclusively at night, in a darkroom. I ask this because I can hardly find a projector that can fill 110" to a maximum of 2.9m and would be available.

And would the P2 be an upgrade in contrast to the HT3550 as far as the picture is concerned?

(translated from German)


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## always_need_codes

mhilbush said:


> I agree completely. And I wrote the GlobalCache integration for an open source smarthome platform so I've seen my fair share of devices.
> 
> And, BTW, I was able to get the latest IR codes from Optoma support (including the discrete power off code), so if anyone wants them I can post here (they're in NEC format but I've converted most to hex). Unfortunately, currently there are no discrete input selection codes. So, I asked that support pass along that request to engineering and/or product management.


Hey Mike, I'd love to use those codes if you still have them? (username checks out)


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## Shoob

always_need_codes said:


> Hey Mike, I'd love to use those codes if you still have them? (username checks out)





https://www.optomausa.com/ContentStorage/Documents/1fd35def-25dd-4ee0-b406-11fb0103c183.pdf



The discreet off has never worked for me and another user here, unfortunately.


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## fingersdlp

peterjcat said:


> Thanks all. I’ve been looking for the 3DHeaven ones but they don’t seem to be available at the moment. I’ve ordered some that look similar off Alibaba, will report back when they arrive!


I and another person I know use the BenQ 3D glasses for the Optoma P2. They are expensive but they are rock solid and work great with the P2.

I also have 3DHeaven and they work as well but not available (and heavier than the BenQ ones).

The Boblov I have tried also lose synch but they can be made better by putting a filter over the sensor (try a piece of scotch tape with black marker on it). That makes them much better but not rock solid. The issue I think is the P2 flash is very bright.


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## mmoreimi

fingersdlp said:


> I and another person I know use the BenQ 3D glasses for the Optoma P2. They are expensive but they are rock solid and work great with the P2.
> 
> I also have 3DHeaven and they work as well but not available (and heavier than the BenQ ones).
> 
> The Boblov I have tried also lose synch but they can be made better by putting a filter over the sensor (try a piece of scotch tape with black marker on it). That makes them much better but not rock solid. The issue I think is the P2 flash is very bright.


I had the Boblov ones and kept getting intermittent dropping. I tried this one and it keeps a solid connection on my P2.


Amazon.com


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## Spunky Noodle

Just updated mine to C13.2 and some driver update later. I notice some yellow in grey area but not severe like previous post on this thread.

I think the contrast should be at *0* and the W color match should be *R4*, *G-2*, *B4* for the perfect grey without yellowish tint on the grey. HDR Picture Mode set to *Standard*, Gamma *2.4* and I have a 0.9 gain ALR.

The default was Contrast 11, R0, G-4, B-8. It's just overblown clipping on highlights.

This took half of my day to calibrate on every contents from PS5 games to HDR movies and YouTube HDR. It wasn't fun and it was tedious since I don't have the proper calibration tool. So I rely on my photographic eyes + my MacBook Pro 14 XDR monitor.

See below post of my finding:


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## Spunky Noodle

Also, those you upgraded the firmware and get weird colour issues. You don't need to ship your unit back to service centre. You can adjust this yourself here; I feel sorry for those who paid shipping or service fee to get it fixed.


First, on your remote to enter the service menu:

*Power > Top > Right > Top > Left > Menu*

Select one of them *FW Index* and/or *PW Index* you can CLICK enter (circle button) to go into the calibration mode.

*FW = Filter Wheel
PW = Phosphor Wheel*










*Example of extreme Grey Yellow Tint many you are experiencing.*










*Calibrated Fixed here for both FW Index and PW Index*


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## Kyle Gallagher

Spunky Noodle said:


> Also, those you upgraded the firmware and get weird colour issues. You don't need to ship your unit back to service centre. You can adjust this yourself here; I feel sorry for those who paid shipping or service fee to get it fixed.
> 
> 
> First, on your remote to enter the service menu:
> 
> *Power > Top > Right > Top > Left > Menu
> 
> FW Index and PW Index you can CLICK enter (circle button) to go into the calibration mode.
> 
> FW = Filter Wheel
> PW = Phosphor Wheel*
> 
> View attachment 3375677
> 
> 
> *Example of extreme Grey Yellow Tint many you are experiencing.*
> 
> View attachment 3375679
> 
> 
> *Calibrated Fixed here for both FW Index and PW Index*
> 
> View attachment 3375680


Where can I find this test pattern?


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## Spunky Noodle

Kyle Gallagher said:


> Where can I find this test pattern?


Go into the service menu and hit *Enter* on your remote when you highlight *FW Index* or *PW Index*.


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## diginyu

Thank you and this is a spectacular finding! What I did to eliminate the yellow is to adjust the color match and bias, but will definitely try to calibrate the FW and PW.

One thing is would the color match and bias affect the calibration image? if so, then it might be better to calibrate after resetting the color settings.


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## Spunky Noodle

diginyu said:


> Thank you and this is a spectacular finding! What I did to eliminate the yellow is to adjust the color match and bias, but will definitely try to calibrate the FW and PW.
> 
> One thing is would the color match and bias affect the calibration image? if so, then it might be better to calibrate after resetting the color settings.


Should reset everything and calibrate the FW and PW first.


----------

