# Need Help!!! Wiring amp, sub, to headunit - custom setup



## nole13

Hi Everyone,


I am new to the forums. I just recently started the second stage in my upgrade process. I upgraded my car speakers to polk audio. I plan to run the front speakers off the head unit and the rear speakers, db 690, off the amp, as well as my sub. Please help me with the wiring and use of my head unit.

*Head Unit*
http://store.sony.com/p/Car-Audio-CD-Stereo/en/p/CDXGT260MP#specifications

*Speakers*
http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db690

*AMP*
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=233188


Please help me! I just want to set it up properly. Appreciate any help that I can get!


----------



## cubdenno

Should be an easy to wire set up. Front channels of amp power your polks. Set crossover on amp to the 80 hertz high pass.


Make sure your sub is 4 ohms or higher. Then attach to the bridged speaker terminal s ( left positive right negative) on the rear channels. Set low pass at 80 hertz.


Only thing that may cause an issue is the single set of rca's from the head unit. You may have to get a y splitter if the amp can't do a single pair driving all channels.


----------



## nole13

So if I understand everything then I don't have to do anything with speaker wires on the amp? Really new to this and don't have an extra $75 to have the store install it. I can switch my rca between sub and rear. Since the amp has these preamp outs does that mean that all I need to run is the RCAs to the amp and the speakers will get power? That doesn't make sense to me....I supplied the wiring diagram for my head unit


CDX260MP Wiring Diagram.pdf 233k .pdf file


----------



## tundrSQ

FWIW...if you are not going to power the front speakers from the prime amp. i don;t see any reason to power the rear fill speakers with the amp either.


why not then, just buy a mono sub amp?


If you have the amp already...i would power the front speakers with it, and power the rear fill speakers from the head unit power.


as for your amp question...


the headunit RCA outputs, for to the RF amp RCA inpout...not output. And then the speakers being powered need to be connected to the speaker outputs of the amp. ( not to be confused with any high level inputs on the amp)










clear as mud yet?


----------



## nole13

Stil confused. The reason I am powering the Rear speakers is because my rear speakers are much stronger than the front ones and can handle up to 100 rms. Soooo.....how do I use a this rca splitter and can someone show me which one to buy....really clear as mudd lol


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22511706
> 
> 
> Stil confused. The reason I am powering the Rear speakers is because my rear speakers are much stronger than the front ones and can handle up to 100 rms. Soooo.....how do I use a this rca splitter and can someone show me which one to buy....really clear as mudd lol



yes but...you want your front speakers to anchor the sound, and the rear speakers to fill in the sound...and the subwoofer to handle the low frequencies.


maybe start from the beginning...what kind of car...and what do you have for front and rear speakers...and what are you still needing to buy?


What RCA splitter are you asking about?


i realize rereading my last post that i had not had my coffee yet....


I was trying to give you the "signal chain"


It starts at the head unit...the RCA's from the HU will go to the Input side of the amp....and then the speaker outputs must be connected to the speakers of your car.


I say that because you were asking about what you had to do to the speaker outputs of the amp.....i was saying you must connect them to the speakers.


What you don't have to deal with is any speaker level "inputs" on the amp....because you have RCA's coming from the HU. If you did NOT have RCA's coming from the HU ...its possible to connect the speaker wires coming off the HU to the INPUT side of the amp to keep the signal chain moving.


It sounds like you need to find a really basic intro to car audio page...there are lots of good ones out there.


----------



## nole13

I have speakers, amp, amp kit, and head unit....anything missing? And the part that confuses me is that if you look at the amp their are two sets of RCAs and I dont know which one to use. Any help would be great! At this point I believe that I will just power all four speakers and leave the subwoofer for later on.


Its a 2005 Chevrolet Classic


----------



## tundrSQ

easy...front RCA's and rear RCA's....thats a 4 channel amp.


Does your Head unit provide front and rear RCA's?


This is how i would do it...


Front RCA from HU to Front RCA of amp...and then on the opposite side of the amp i would connect the front speaker outputs to my front speakers.


Then Rear RCA's from HU to rear RCA of amp....and then i would bridge the rear channel speaker outputs to go to my subwoofer....


and i would save the rear fill speakers for later.....and gthen when later comes, i would change my connections on the rear speaker outputs to then go to my raer speakers.


and i would buy a mono amp to power my subwoofer....


this assumes you have a 4 channel Head unit....i will check out the model you have and see if i need to edit this post.


EDIT...you do not have 4 channel RCA outputs...










Are you married to that deck and that amp? They don't play as well together as i would like....


----------



## nole13

I mean I just put in the head unit about 2 weeks ago and decided I would build a system. Is there a way to make it work?


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512032
> 
> 
> I mean I just put in the head unit about 2 weeks ago and decided I would build a system. Is there a way to make it work?



sure you can make it work...


amp...you have this....did you buy it new? Is it returnable?


sub...do you own a sub? what sub do you own? and is it in a box? ported or sealed? whats the final impedance load being presented to the amp?




heres where i see you are....the head unit while bein very much an entry level deck...claims to produce 50 watts per channel... which should be fine for your front and rear speakers.


It has a single RCA output....that can be for rear ( or front ) but not both...or sub...whihc is why i am asking about the status of your amp and subwoofers....


you "could" use the rear RCA and run it back to the amp...and buy a pair of y adapters to send signal to all 4 channels of the amp...this just eliminates the fading capability of your system....but you could do this..


This can work great....lots of ifs....and i will check the amp out further....


i would still power rear speakers with the HU...and the frotn speakers..(what are they?) with the RF amp....and then i would use the rear channels of the rockford amp ( teed off the Y connector) for the subwoofer....


i just want to check the amp to see if it has individual front and rear sensitivity controls...and that the rear has individual low pass for the sub and a separate high pass for t he front speakers.


hang on a sec and i will check...


edit:


yes that will work...you will get a fixed high pass filter of 80 hz for either your front or rear speakers...and a adjustable low pass filter for your subwoofer...and you can control them individually...so you are cool...you just need a pair of y connectors...female in to 2 male out...and you are golden.


so front or rear will come from head unit amp...and then front or rear will come front rockford 2 channels...and sub will come front other 2 rockford channels bridged....(if they bridge )


----------



## nole13

Well my deck has built in high and low pass filters. Should I use those at all? And so I should keep everything I have? Do you know of a better amp around the same price that will fit my deck and system better? And thanks for all the info so far!



One thing I do know is that the 50Wx4 is peak, not RMS. So i'm probably lucky if im getting 17 rms.


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512114
> 
> 
> Well my deck has built in high and low pass filters. Should I use those at all? And so I should keep everything I have? Do you know of a better amp around the same price that will fit my deck and system better? And thanks for all the info so far!
> 
> One thing I do know is that the 50Wx4 is peak, not RMS. So i'm probably lucky if im getting 17 rms.



if you are going to use Y connectors....then you have to send a full range signal thru the RCA and then use the filters on the amp to send highs to the speakers, and lows to the sub.


yes you can use what you have....and the amp can be brided to send a mono signal to the sub...what sub are you using?


The prime amp you have a relatively low powered amp...but its fine for now. it will get you 120 watts to a sub...you will want a single voice coil 4 i believe.


I Have a rockford punch 500 amp...it puts out tons of power even if its only rated at 200x1


and yeah i know you are only getting 10-15 watts out of the HU...but again it should be fine...it wont sound like a concert...but it should be clean and loud.


----------



## nole13

I havent bought it yet, but I was going to buy
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120405 


So i'm still a little confused on the y-connectors. In my mind right now I would run the rca's to the amp and put them in the rear rca inputs. Then run either the front or back off the amp individually and finally bridge the last two channels to power the sub. Does that work? Where does the y-adapter fit in? Sorry if these are silly questions i just dont want to ruin anything.


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512150
> 
> 
> I havent bought it yet, but I was going to buy
> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120405
> 
> So i'm still a little confused on the y-connectors. In my mind right now I would run the rca's to the amp and put them in the rear rca inputs. Then run either the front or back off the amp individually and finally bridge the last two channels to power the sub. Does that work? Where does the y-adapter fit in? Sorry if these are silly questions i just dont want to ruin anything.



not silly at all...you are close...you would run the single pair of RCA's back from the Hed unit to the trunk where the amp is.. Then instead of plugging the left RCA into the rear left RCA input of the amp you would plug it into the Y cable, giving you now TWO lefts...same for the right cable...are you with me?


Then you plug the 2 left ends of the Y cable into front and reat left on the amp....and same for the right side. got it?



This sends that full range stereo 2-channel output from the hed unit into the all FOUR channels of the rockford amplifier.


And from there 2 channels of the amp (front left sand right) go back up into the car to power your speakers ( front or rear your choice)....and the remaining two channels can power your sub.


i probably would not buy that sub....i can suggest several others. that would be better.


What kind of music do you like? And are you thinking ported box to get louder? Or sealed box to remain a little tighter?


the amp does not have a sub sonic filter....so i think i would suggest sealed....to better protect the driver....or Infinite baffle...but for simplicity tsake lets say sealed, and i think i would suggest a 12 over a 10.


----------



## cubdenno

Was gonna offer the same advice as tundrsq regarding hooking up the front speakers until I realized they were factory. The nice thing is, with the fosgate 4 channel amp, you have an easy upgrade path. You can always purchase a mono sub amp later as we'll as some speakers to replace the factory front ones. Then you can power the four interior ones and have more than 120 watts on the sub.


I am assuming you are a teenager or early early 20's. since you are probably looking for good sound with lots of volume and a limited budget I am glad you are going the route you are. I have helped so many of my son's and nephew's friends that did a deck powered front end with a amped sub and in the end they were unhappy with the sound. The bass will not be as earth shaking but you will have some and the ability to add lots more down the road all while not sacrificing the pother frequencies.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS1F2M 


Y connector. You need two of them.


----------



## nole13

Thanks that really cleared up the confusion of the y-adapter!!! I really do not want to take up a lot of trunk space that's why i wanted to go with a 10. And probably a sealed box. I'm not looking for earth shaking bass, but i want to feel the bass, you know? I really listen to everything. It all depends so i'm not trying to gear the system to anything specific rather get some better quality. The main reason for picking that sub is that my local store has it for $59.99 + $35 for a sealed box. Is that a good deal or can I get something better? Also last question would I be better off just leaving all speakers on the head unit and then just get a mono amp and powering my sub and running those RCAs directly into the amp and just using the amp for the sub?


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512375
> 
> 
> Was gonna offer the same advice as tundrsq regarding hooking up the front speakers until I realized they were factory. The nice thing is, with the fosgate 4 channel amp, you have an easy upgrade path. You can always purchase a mono sub amp later as we'll as some speakers to replace the factory front ones. Then you can power the four interior ones and have more than 120 watts on the sub.
> 
> I am assuming you are a teenager or early early 20's. since you are probably looking for good sound with lots of volume and a limited budget I am glad you are going the route you are. I have helped so many of my son's and nephew's friends that did a deck powered front end with a amped sub and in the end they were unhappy with the sound. The bass will not be as earth shaking but you will have some and the ability to add lots more down the road all while not sacrificing the pother frequencies.
> http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS1F2M
> 
> Y connector. You need two of them.



Hi thanks for the input. I do have polks in the front as well, but I do not remember the model number since I put them in about 3 years ago.


Question on the Y-adapters....does it matter that the female is red....should I get one with red and one with black?? Am i just over thinking it?


----------



## cubdenno

 http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/GTO1014/GTO1014_JBL_US?skuId=GTO1014_JBL_US 


Do a search for this sub. It will out perform that prime sub.


I know it's a bit more expensive but you will be money ahead. They are great subs. If you can afford it, the twelve will have even more output. Sealed or ported. Can set you up with a decent design for it as we'll if you want to try your hand at building an enclosure. Can offer a dozen more sub choices that will make you more happy than that prime if the jbl doesn't catch your eye. That's the nice thing about subs. No reason unless you are putting kilowatts on a single one to spend big dollars on them.


----------



## cubdenno

Well heck! If you got the front drivers in, power them! The 6X9's will be loud enough and add some much needed mid bass. Hell. Run both sets off the front channels of the amp. 2 ohm load. Just confirm the model of the fronts if you can.pretty sure they will be 4 ohm though. You won't have fade capability but the interior speakers will be loud enough and they will be playing 80 hertz and up.


Then when you upgrade the sub amp portion for some extra low end... It's a simple change of speaker wire at the amp. To get each speaker it's own amp channel.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512392
> 
> http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/GTO1014/GTO1014_JBL_US?skuId=GTO1014_JBL_US
> 
> Do a search for this sub. It will out perform that prime sub.
> 
> I know it's a bit more expensive but you will be money ahead. They are great subs. If you can afford it, the twelve will have even more output. Sealed or ported. Can set you up with a decent design for it as we'll if you want to try your hand at building an enclosure. Can offer a dozen more sub choices that will make you more happy than that prime if the jbl doesn't catch your eye. That's the nice thing about subs. No reason unless you are putting kilowatts on a single one to spend big dollars on them.



The sub is the punch level...don't know if that makes a difference. Also I can get that sub at $60. Is that worth it or is it still worth it to pay more? I'm still open to any suggestions for other subs, but really trying to come in at $100 including the box....

'


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512404
> 
> 
> Well heck! If you got the front drivers in, power them! The 6X9's will be loud enough and add some much needed mid bass. Hell. Run both sets off the front channels of the amp. 2 ohm load. Just confirm the model of the fronts if you can.pretty sure they will be 4 ohm though. You won't have fade capability but the interior speakers will be loud enough and they will be playing 80 hertz and up.
> 
> Then when you upgrade the sub amp portion for some extra low end... It's a simple change of speaker wire at the amp. To get each speaker it's own amp channel.



They are all 4 ohm speakers. Wouldn't it be better to run them at the same loads? I'm not sure on the loads and everything, but I was assuming that it should all match up? If the speakers are 4 ohms stable shouldn't the amp match up?


----------



## cubdenno

 http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1 


http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1 


This box has free shipping. The nice thing is, if the performance of the ported box isn't for you, go to Walmart and pick up foam rubber ac unit sealer .get the 2X2x36 and you seal the port. I am concerned that with the power you will be running, you will be disappointed in the output. The bit of extra low end should compensate.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512314
> 
> 
> not silly at all...you are close...you would run the single pair of RCA's back from the Hed unit to the trunk where the amp is.. Then instead of plugging the left RCA into the rear left RCA input of the amp you would plug it into the Y cable, giving you now TWO lefts...same for the right cable...are you with me?
> 
> Then you plug the 2 left ends of the Y cable into front and reat left on the amp....and same for the right side. got it?
> 
> This sends that full range stereo 2-channel output from the hed unit into the all FOUR channels of the rockford amplifier.
> 
> And from there 2 channels of the amp (front left sand right) go back up into the car to power your speakers ( front or rear your choice)....and the remaining two channels can power your sub.
> 
> i probably would not buy that sub....i can suggest several others. that would be better.
> 
> What kind of music do you like? And are you thinking ported box to get louder? Or sealed box to remain a little tighter?
> 
> the amp does not have a sub sonic filter....so i think i would suggest sealed....to better protect the driver....or Infinite baffle...but for simplicity tsake lets say sealed, and i think i would suggest a 12 over a 10.



What kind of subs and price are we looking at? Really want to save space and money.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512437
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1
> http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1
> 
> This box has free shipping. The nice thing is, if the performance of the ported box isn't for you, go to Walmart and pick up foam rubber ac unit sealer .get the 2X2x36 and you seal the port. I am concerned that with the power you will be running, you will be disappointed in the output. The bit of extra low end should compensate.



Does it come with a box? Or did you mean to add a different link? Thanks!


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512424
> 
> 
> They are all 4 ohm speakers. Wouldn't it be better to run them at the same loads? I'm not sure on the loads and everything, but I was assuming that it should all match up? If the speakers are 4 ohms stable shouldn't the amp match up?



you could run both front and rear speakers off the front half of the amp (at 2ohms)....you will just lose the ability to fade (balance front vs rear)...not a bad idea to try it.


----------



## cubdenno

Two links there. Missed the space. Typing on a dang iPad.......


----------



## tundrSQ

$100 for a box and driver including shipping is not an "optimal" budget ....


i found this....should work fine...2 of them would be better

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36441_Boston-Acoustics-G110PS.html


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512464
> 
> 
> $100 for a box and driver including shipping is not an "optimal" budget ....
> 
> i found this....should work fine...2 of them would be better
> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36441_Boston-Acoustics-G110PS.html



Nice find! I forget about the good deals on Boston now. Look at Boston's website. The may be even better deals or at least there used to be.


----------



## nole13

What amp should I be using with this? The same one I have now? Or is there a comparable amp that can be a better set up?


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512504
> 
> 
> What amp should I be using with this? The same one I have now? Or is there a comparable amp that can be a better set up?



i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.


If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer....no free lunch.


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512527
> 
> 
> i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.
> 
> If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer...*no free lunch* .



Best comment ever!


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup#post_22512527
> 
> 
> i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.
> 
> If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer....no free lunch.



Okay so would for decent bass that I can feel, am I better off just going with what I have and changing my sub to the boston acoustic or should I budget another $100...that would just take longer to do


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22512548
> 
> 
> Okay so would for decent bass that I can feel, am I better off just going with what I have and changing my sub to the boston acoustic or should I budget another $100...that would just take longer to do



thats up to you...a single 10...in the trunk powered by 120 watts is going to be audible...and it will sound decent....but it will nto hit you in the chest. It make shake your rear view mirror....but it will make you want more if you "like your bass".


I used to have a ford contour...with a single 10 and 300 watts that rally pounded....but it was an eclipse 10 that cost over $400 and an xtant amp that cost almost a grand. It was enough bass for me.


But you can't expect that out of a $100 rockford amp...it should get loud....but i think it will leave you wanting 2 10's...or a single 12.



just my opinion...and if t were me i would try and find another $100.,,it will cost you a little more upfront but you will be happy....and you should be set for a couple years unitl you get a taste....and then you will want 2 12's...and then 2 15's....and then maybe 4 10's...


This is the beginning of a long and hopefully enjoyable road...i have been enjoying it for over 25 years. ( i have 4 vifa 8's and some Hybrid Audio comps up front...but using factory HU and amp...plus a RF amp for my subs)


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22512581
> 
> 
> thats up to you...a single 10...in the trunk powered by 120 watts is going to be audible...and it will sound decent....but it will nto hit you in the chest. It make shake your rear view mirror....but it will make you want more if you "like your bass".
> 
> I used to have a ford contour...with a single 10 and 300 watts that rally pounded....but it was an eclipse 10 that cost over $400 and an xtant amp that cost almost a grand. It was enough bass for me.
> 
> But you can't expect that out of a $100 rockford amp...it should get loud....but i think it will leave you wanting 2 10's...or a single 12.
> 
> just my opinion...and if t were me i would try and find another $100.,,it will cost you a little more upfront but you will be happy....and you should be set for a couple years unitl you get a taste....and then you will want 2 12's...and then 2 15's....and then maybe 4 10's...
> 
> This is the beginning of a long and hopefully enjoyable road...i have been enjoying it for over 25 years. ( i have 4 vifa 8's and some Hybrid Audio comps up front...but using factory HU and amp...plus a RF amp for my subs)



Okay thanks. I think for now I will stick with the setup that I originally planned on. Is there a better 10 inch sub that with the amp I have is going to be better around the same price or should I stick with what I have?


Also as far as the ohm loads can someone clarify that please?!


----------



## nole13

Just a follow up question. So I no longer need the pin harness do i?


----------



## cubdenno

Pin harness?


Using what you originally planned will work fine.


Definitely try to power the door and 6x9's with the front channels of the amp. That should power your speakers with a solid ~30 watts each. Better than head unit power.


Powering the sub with 120 watts will leave you wanting more but it is a good place to start. The Boston sub is a good bargain especially if you don't want to build your own enclosure.


Just pick up those y connectors and you will be good to go.


It's a shame you already have the amp.

http://www.parts-express.com/brand/factory-buyouts/car-amplifiers/356_378 


These are amazing amplifiers by themselves let alone for the money. Aura , like Boston acoustics is out of the car audio business. They had a 5 channel that would have powered your whole system. But they are sold out.


Here is a sub that should work as well

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-086


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22512782
> 
> 
> Pin harness?
> 
> Using what you originally planned will work fine.
> 
> Definitely try to power the door and 6x9's with the front channels of the amp. That should power your speakers with a solid ~30 watts each. Better than head unit power.
> 
> Powering the sub with 120 watts will leave you wanting more but it is a good place to start. The Boston sub is a good bargain especially if you don't want to build your own enclosure.
> 
> Just pick up those y connectors and you will be good to go.
> 
> It's a shame you already have the amp.
> http://www.parts-express.com/brand/factory-buyouts/car-amplifiers/356_378
> 
> These are amazing amplifiers by themselves let alone for the money. Aura , like Boston acoustics is out of the car audio business. They had a 5 channel that would have powered your whole system. But they are sold out.
> 
> Here is a sub that should work as well
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-086



The amp hasn't shipped out yet, but I would really like some clarification on the ohms. If someone can tell me whether its okay to run different ohms or how that works I would appreciate it and would value your opinion more. Right now I think I would like to keep everything on the same level. The Pin Harness I was talking about goes in the back of the radio. I am just trying to figure out if I leave that in or not. Also just spoke to someone who offered to build a "T-line" box. Would that make a difference in sound for the 10 inch and the rockford fosgate subwoofer?


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22512811
> 
> 
> The amp hasn't shipped out yet, but I would really like some clarification on the ohms. If someone can tell me whether its okay to run different ohms or how that works I would appreciate it and would value your opinion more. Right now I think I would like to keep everything on the same level. The Pin Harness I was talking about goes in the back of the radio. I am just trying to figure out if I leave that in or not. Also just spoke to someone who offered to build a "T-line" box. Would that make a difference in sound for the 10 inch and the rockford fosgate subwoofer?



a properly built t-line box would make you very happy....and a single 10, or even a single 8 in a transmission line box would sound great. An improperly built t-line box could sound like crap. If you want to go that route, then listen to one that he has built first and make a decision.


here is a little tease...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8yArcObFZI&feature=related 


As for ohms...it is OK to run different ohms in a system...i in fact run diferent ohms in my front stage...i have 4ohm woofers and tweeters being powered by my factory amp...and i also have an 8 ohm tweeter being powered by the factory amp.


i have 4 4 ohm subwoofers, but they are wired in series and then parallel to preset n a 4 ohm load to my amp.


Lots of people use ohms to maximize the power from there amp...running the lowest possible ohms to get the most power.


i personally use ohms to balance the sound levels.


what you need to pay attention is not running too low an impedance (ohms) to your amplifier. Earlier i warned you not to run a pair pf boston acoustic subs because it would present your amp too low an impedance.


One thing you will learn is lots of pople have lots of ideas...and sometimes you will get advice from people have "just enough knowledge" to be dangerous.










Here you have two guys who know they are talking about....


what don't you explain to me what you mean by "keeping it all on the same level"? Are you saying you don't want to run your fronts and rears in parallel off the first two channels of the amp because you think that will be the wrong impedance?


----------



## cubdenno

 http://bcae1.com/ 


Give this site look.


I typed up a whole damn page of info on ohms using an amp as an example but it looked like one of my long winded responses.


Look at section 8


Very informative. The guy really made a great reference.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22513110
> 
> 
> a properly built t-line box would make you very happy....and a single 10, or even a single 8 in a transmission line box would sound great. An improperly built t-line box could sound like crap. If you want to go that route, then listen to one that he has built first and make a decision.
> 
> here is a little tease...
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8yArcObFZI&feature=related
> 
> As for ohms...it is OK to run different ohms in a system...i in fact run diferent ohms in my front stage...i have 4ohm woofers and tweeters being powered by my factory amp...and i also have an 8 ohm tweeter being powered by the factory amp.
> 
> i have 4 4 ohm subwoofers, but they are wired in series and then parallel to preset n a 4 ohm load to my amp.
> 
> Lots of people use ohms to maximize the power from there amp...running the lowest possible ohms to get the most power.
> 
> i personally use ohms to balance the sound levels.
> 
> what you need to pay attention is not running too low an impedance (ohms) to your amplifier. Earlier i warned you not to run a pair pf boston acoustic subs because it would present your amp too low an impedance.
> 
> One thing you will learn is lots of pople have lots of ideas...and sometimes you will get advice from people have "just enough knowledge" to be dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you have two guys who know they are talking about....
> 
> what don't you explain to me what you mean by "keeping it all on the same level"? Are you saying you don't want to run your fronts and rears in parallel off the first two channels of the amp because you think that will be the wrong impedance?



Yeah I'm just worried about running the amp at 2 ohms into a 4 ohm speaker.


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22514140
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm just worried about running the amp at 2 ohms into a 4 ohm speaker.



yeah but you are not...you are taking two 4 ohm speakers and strapping them together and "creating" a 2 ohm load....the amp has nothing to do with the equation. ( other than it needs to be stable at at the impedance it receives.)


IOW...the amp runs at whatever speaker load you send it.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22514251
> 
> 
> yeah but you are not...you are taking two 4 ohm speakers and strapping them together and "creating" a 2 ohm load....the amp has nothing to do with the equation. ( other than it needs to be stable at at the impedance it receives.)
> 
> IOW...the amp runs at whatever speaker load you send it.



Okay so can that ruin the amp? Or anything? I've heard from others that you want to keep it matched up for life of the amp/sub. Also would anyone be able to tell me how I can calculate the dimensions of a t-line box for a specific sub? I would be most greatful! The guy that offered is asking $400 above the cost of the box.


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22514732
> 
> 
> Okay so can that ruin the amp? Or anything? I've heard from others that you want to keep it matched up for life of the amp/sub. Also would anyone be able to tell me how I can calculate the dimensions of a t-line box for a specific sub? I would be most greatful! The guy that offered is asking $400 above the cost of the box.



time for some reality....ad i apologize if it comes out wrong.


i have told you 3 times now that you can run 2 pair of 4 ohm speakers off that amp....and i also told you 2 or 3 times that if you were not comfortable doing that you could run the fronts off the amp and the rears off the head unit....this is not a complicated project here.....its 2 sets of $50 dollar speakers , a $50 head unit, and a $100 amp....plus maybe a $75 dollar sub.


You can spend another 6 months listening to a dozen people....or you cold run some wire and listen to some music...your choice...but i really have nothing else to offer here.


----------



## cubdenno

Everything mr. Sq has advised about has been spot on.


To answer your question on the ohms and the amp, you will be fine. Like sq said, if you are worried, wire it up the way he advised or the way you originally planned to be safest.


Yes if you run an amplifier at to low of an impedance you will let the magic smoke out ( that mean sits toast)


If you are going to waste your money on a t-line enclosure then seriously you need smacked. There is no magic design that will do it all. Like in life there are compromises. If you have 400 bucks lying around for a design you would be better off buying a better head unit AND a mono sub amp. And have cash left over


Ask the guy who will design and build the t-line for a guarantee. Put it on paper what you are expecting. That way when it fails, you have some sort of recourse.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22515330
> 
> 
> Everything mr. Sq has advised about has been spot on.
> 
> To answer your question on the ohms and the amp, you will be fine. Like sq said, if you are worried, wire it up the way he advised or the way you originally planned to be safest.
> 
> Yes if you run an amplifier at to low of an impedance you will let the magic smoke out ( that mean sits toast)
> 
> If you are going to waste your money on a t-line enclosure then seriously you need smacked. There is no magic design that will do it all. Like in life there are compromises. If you have 400 bucks lying around for a design you would be better off buying a better head unit AND a mono sub amp. And have cash left over
> 
> Ask the guy who will design and build the t-line for a guarantee. Put it on paper what you are expecting. That way when it fails, you have some sort of recourse.



Well he said he would make designs for $20-$40 depending on complexity and I would then build it. The other two options I have is to do a fiber glass enclosure, built by me again, http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Fiberglass-Subwoofer/?ALLSTEPS 

or just buy the speaker with the enclosure here:

http://rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120441


----------



## cubdenno

When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.


That plan has to incorporate:


Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen

Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.

And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:


Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.

One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.

You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.


Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.


Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp


Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit


Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels


Purchase sub and enclosure



Upgrade path:

Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers

Second sub

custom enclosure


And last

A better head unit



I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.


This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.


Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..


Thankfully you have a pretty good start.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22515845
> 
> 
> When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
> 
> That plan has to incorporate:
> 
> Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
> 
> Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
> 
> And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
> 
> Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
> 
> One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
> 
> You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
> 
> Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
> 
> Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
> 
> Purchase sub and enclosure
> 
> Upgrade path:
> 
> Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
> 
> Second sub
> 
> custom enclosure
> 
> 
> And last
> 
> A better head unit
> 
> I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
> 
> This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
> 
> Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
> 
> Thankfully you have a pretty good start.




Thanks!


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22515845
> 
> 
> When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
> 
> That plan has to incorporate:
> 
> Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
> 
> Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
> 
> And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
> 
> Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
> 
> One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
> 
> You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
> 
> Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
> 
> Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
> 
> Purchase sub and enclosure
> 
> Upgrade path:
> 
> Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
> 
> Second sub
> 
> custom enclosure
> 
> 
> And last
> 
> A better head unit
> 
> I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
> 
> This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
> 
> Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
> 
> Thankfully you have a pretty good start.




Thanks!


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22515845
> 
> 
> When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
> 
> That plan has to incorporate:
> 
> Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
> 
> Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
> 
> And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
> 
> Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
> 
> One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
> 
> You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
> 
> Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
> 
> Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
> 
> Purchase sub and enclosure
> 
> Upgrade path:
> 
> Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
> 
> Second sub
> 
> custom enclosure
> 
> 
> And last
> 
> A better head unit
> 
> I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
> 
> This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
> 
> Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
> 
> Thankfully you have a pretty good start.




Thanks!


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22515845
> 
> 
> When it comes to an audio system or really anything in life you need a plan. You need to also determine what the goals are.
> 
> That plan has to incorporate:
> 
> Budget: If you don't have the money, it's not going to happen
> 
> Ability: Can you do all the work so that it is done correctly and safely. If not more money has to be in the budget to pay someone to do it.
> 
> And you have to encompass the next portion into the plan as well:
> 
> Goals are a different story all together. They are limited by the budget (hard to win the world SPL championship on a 200 dollar budget.
> 
> One also has to be realistic about their goals.Yoiu can try to achieve anything but you have to be happy with what you have which was inherently limited by your budget and abilities.
> 
> You can do anything if you have the time and money to put into it.
> 
> Between TundrSQ and myself, we have outlined a reasonable cost effective plan using what you already have with upgrade potential.
> 
> Use current headunit's single set of RCA outputs with Y adapters to get the signal to the amp
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to either power one or both sets of door and 6X9 speakers off the front channels. If you only power one set, then the second set is powered by the head unit
> 
> Use current Rockford 4 channel amp to power a subwoofer of bridged rear channels
> 
> Purchase sub and enclosure
> 
> Upgrade path:
> 
> Mono sub amp to free up rear channels of rockford amp to drive interior speakers
> 
> Second sub
> 
> custom enclosure
> 
> 
> And last
> 
> A better head unit
> 
> I think with your budget, you buy a decent subwoofer and stick it in the cheapest sealed box you can. Make sure the sub is either a single voice coil 4 ohm sub or a dual voice coil 2 ohm per coil sub.
> 
> This will let you get a second sub and more easily let you add in a mono sub amp that only has to drive a 2 ohm load. THEN you get a custom enclosure design.
> 
> Dealing with the 20-30 young guys that have all come through my garage (friends of my son and nephew), some have been wanting nothing but Bass, others were claiming to want sq with a little bass. All were wanting to do it on a highschoolers budget and were willing to skimp on the really important things. Like adequate wire, a plan, safety, subwoofers etc..
> 
> Thankfully you have a pretty good start.




Thanks!


----------



## cubdenno

Your welcome times 4


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22516948
> 
> 
> Your welcome times 4



Sorry about the multiple posts, but I am that thankful!


----------



## nole13

HI There back again......So can someone break down how the wires run into the back of the radio? I decided that for now I will just run the speakers off the amp and save up and expand the system later on. Tried looking online for videos or detailed instructions, but dont want to mess anything up. Confused on whether I still need to use the wiring harness, how the remote wire from the amp connects to the back of the radio and what to do with the speaker wires that are connected to the harness.....Thanks for the help so far and looking forward to getting this done properly!


----------



## cubdenno

As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..


Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.


I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22522167
> 
> 
> As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..
> 
> Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.
> 
> I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.



Does anyone know how to use the high pass filter on only the front speakers? Usually when I do it it affects all speakers....



EDIT: Never mind. I was clearly over due on sleep.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22522167
> 
> 
> As for the harness make sure no wires are bare so that they won't short out. The remote wire connects to the harness.usually blue or blue with white stripe. This is what turns on the amplifier as well as turns off..
> 
> Just run the remote and RCA cable out of the back of the head unit. You should be fine. Connect at the amp.
> 
> I would run the 6X9's full range. Use the high pass on the front speakers.



So to clarify, I keep the wiring harness in and the only wires that are changed with the harness is the amp remote wire needs to be connected and i disconnected the speaker wires? Is it a bad idea to use the existing speaker that has already been run through the doors and connect new speaker wire to that?


----------



## cubdenno

I have tied into factory wiring a bunch of times. I have even used the rear speaker's wire and jumper to the front wires at the harness. Saved the kid money and it works perfectly


Example: rear speakers were disconnected from factory rear speaker wire.

Connected amp front speaker outs to the wires in the trunk.

at the factory wiring harnes in the dash, I jumpered the rears to the corresponding fronts.

Now the front speakers are run through the factory wiring.

The rear speakers had new wiring run to them as they were very close to the amplifier.


Make sense?


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22527977
> 
> 
> I have tied into factory wiring a bunch of times. I have even used the rear speaker's wire and jumper to the front wires at the harness. Saved the kid money and it works perfectly
> 
> Example: rear speakers were disconnected from factory rear speaker wire.
> 
> Connected amp front speaker outs to the wires in the trunk.
> 
> at the factory wiring harnes in the dash, I jumpered the rears to the corresponding fronts.
> 
> Now the front speakers are run through the factory wiring.
> 
> The rear speakers had new wiring run to them as they were very close to the amplifier.
> 
> Make sense?



Yeah....what im planning to do. Tell me if this makes sense. Im going to access the speaker wires at the back somewhere between the harness and the receiver and tie in the wires from the amp. And also tie in the amp remote turn on wire into the wiring harness...Sound good?


----------



## nole13

[SIZE]UPDATE ON FRONT SPEAKERS[/SIZE]

http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db461 



So since these can only handle 40 rms, how do I wire up my sub now?


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22532095
> 
> 
> [SIZE]UPDATE ON FRONT SPEAKERS[/SIZE]
> http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db461
> 
> So since these can only handle 40 rms, how do I wire up my sub now?



Not sure I understand the problem. What does sub and the front speakers have to do with the front speakers?


You wire the sub the same way we told you initially.


Just use the built in crossovers to keep each speaker type with the correct bandwidth.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/30#post_22533669
> 
> 
> Not sure I understand the problem. What does sub and the front speakers have to do with the front speakers?
> 
> You wire the sub the same way we told you initially.
> 
> Just use the built in crossovers to keep each speaker type with the correct bandwidth.



Sorry im confusing myself. I am sticking with the speakers I have now and just adding the amp.


----------



## nole13

Hey so i have everything run correctly and its all working. I just need to tune the amp gains, filters, etc. Can someone tell how to exactly set that up? I dont have a multimeter. Is it possible to do it by ear decently? Everything i've found shows subwoofers.


----------



## tundrSQ

1. Play a typically loud music CD in your headunit. Set volume to 75%. Wear ear protection.

2. Starting with the amp gains at their lowest setting, slowly raise one gain at a time until you hear clipping from the corresponding speaker. This will sound like audible distortion.

3. Once you've found the clipping point, back the gain down until you no longer hear the distortion.

4. Repeat for any addt'l gains on the amp/amps.

5. Your new maximum volume setting on the headunit is 75%, never exceed that for happy, healthy speaker life.


----------



## cubdenno

To further expand on TundrSQ's advice, make sure all boost is off. Loudness is off, bass and treble set to zero at the head unit. Any head unit EQ is off or set to neutral. Remember, the gain does not make your amp produce more power. It is there to let you match the amp to the headunit. Your headunit is what dictates the amp producing up to it's max power. all controlled by the volume control and whatever boost you add.


----------



## nole13

Thanks! Would i be better off tuning at a specific hertz? Just saw something online about it and not sure if thats necessary?


----------



## cubdenno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22564240
> 
> 
> Thanks! Would i be better off tuning at a specific hertz? Just saw something online about it and not sure if thats necessary?



Not relevant to what you are doing. Tuning to a specific hertz is for sub enclosures that are ported. Or if you are eq'ing your system and are addressing a peak or valley in your vehicles frequency response.


----------



## nole13

Okay. Just going off my speakers what should my set the crossovers to on the amp? Do i want to completely eliminate the bass from my front speakers since they do have woofers?


[SIZE]Speakers[/SIZE]

http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db461 

http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db690 


[SIZE]Amplifier[/SIZE]

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=233188


----------



## cubdenno

Set it for HP which is 80 hertz. The low pass has a select-able frequency pot.


----------



## nole13

This might be a dumb idea which is why im asking before doing it. Can i bridge my two rear channels and combine the speaker wire from the two 6X9s to get 22.5 more rms? Will this hurt the amp? Am I better off just running it individually and only sending 40 rms?


----------



## cubdenno

Don't do it.


You are basically driving the 6X9's with a mono signal at a to low for that amp impedance. You might gain a bit more output but in the end the magic smoke may come out of the amp.


What are you trying to gain? More bass?


How did you end up wiring the speakers to the amp?


Did you add the sub yet?


----------



## nole13

i ran speaker wire from the head unit instead of opening each door panel to the trunk and then each speaker is on its on channel. Although when I adjusted the gain today it sounds like i have a left and a right, not front and rear. I haven't added the sub yet. Look to pick up one of these and then just use the rear speakers as fill and bridge the two rear channels for the sub, but since it sounds like i have a left and right don't know if that will work. Also quick question, on my head unit it has the option to but the sub in rev or normal. And I can adjust the subwoofer level from the headunit. Is that the gain?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olstemplatemapper.jsp?id=pcat17080&type=page&qp=cabcat0300000%23%230%23%231qo~~cabcat0302000%23%230%23%23ds~~cabcat0302034%23%230%23%233z~~cpcmcat223300050038%23%230%23%231~~q4661737433736b753232~~nf398%7C%7C506f6c6b20417564696f&list=y&nrp=15&sc=carSP&sp=-bestsellingsort+skuid&usc=abcat0300000


----------



## cubdenno

Did you use y connectors to split the rca's signal for the front and rear?


Disconnect the rear speakers to make sure the front are working. Reconnect the rears after making sure. Repeat with the other set.


Confirm that both sets of speakers work.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22567068
> 
> 
> Did you use y connectors to split the rca's signal for the front and rear?
> 
> Disconnect the rear speakers to make sure the front are working. Reconnect the rears after making sure. Repeat with the other set.
> 
> Confirm that both sets of speakers work.



Should I disconnect the y-adapters or the actual speaker wires?


----------



## nole13

Hey so I ended up buying the Boston Acoustics GP110PS. I was going to just run the front speakers off channel 1 and 2 and then bridge the two rear speakers for the sub. I wanted to know is there anyway to run all four speakers off the front two channels?


----------



## cubdenno

Just hook the second set to the same amp terminals as the front set


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cubdenno*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22579095
> 
> 
> Just hook the second set to the same amp terminals as the front set



Wouldn't that reduce rms power to 20? Which would basically be the same as the head unit? Anyway to run them at 2 ohm?


----------



## cubdenno

Your amp does [email protected] ohms so its not a perfect doubling of power at two ohms but the difference would be inaudible. The difference between a head unit and amp of the same power rating is night. And day. The chip the head unit uses will clip long before the amp will. Look at the power requirements between the amp and head unit.


Anyway, you should enjoy the set up. With the sub.


----------



## nole13

So im trying to figure out how to open my back seat in order to mount the amp and unclipped the speaker by accident. While putting it back in I noticed a crack in the woofer of my DB690. I was wondering if I run only high frequencies through the speaker will it still sound bad? Or do I just replace it?


----------



## nole13

So i'm looking to upgrade due to the sound i want and having some more cash. Can someone please take a look at what i'm upgrading to. The head unit is available for $129, The amps are both around $200 on other sites. Just looking for input.



[SIZE]HeadUnit[/SIZE]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46317_Sony-MEX-BT4000P.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556730&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 



[SIZE]Amplifiers[/SIZE]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34760_Rockford-Fosgate-R600-5.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556757&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34363_Alpine-MRX-V60.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556768&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22585698
> 
> 
> So i'm looking to upgrade due to the sound i want and having some more cash. Can someone please take a look at what i'm upgrading to. The head unit is available for $129, The amps are both around $200 on other sites. Just looking for input.
> 
> [SIZE]HeadUnit[/SIZE]
> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46317_Sony-MEX-BT4000P.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556730&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1
> 
> [SIZE]Amplifiers[/SIZE]
> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34760_Rockford-Fosgate-R600-5.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556757&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1
> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34363_Alpine-MRX-V60.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13556768&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1



i lost track of this about 50 posts ago...remind everyone what you would be upgrading FROM.....and explain a little as to what you are hoping to gain with this purchase. If memory serves you have a relatively low end HU and rockford amp...and here it seems you are looking to buy another entry level HU and amp???


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22585921
> 
> 
> i lost track of this about 50 posts ago...remind everyone what you would be upgrading FROM.....and explain a little as to what you are hoping to gain with this purchase. If memory serves you have a relatively low end HU and rockford amp...and here it seems you are looking to buy another entry level HU and amp???



Upgrading from

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40305_Sony-CDX-GT260MP.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=13558782&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 


Reason for the upgrade is that I will now have pre-amp outputs for rear and sub as well. As well as add usb, bluetooth, and xm radio capability.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=233188 


Upgrading amp in order to take advantage of the new outputs as well as be able to power each channel individually, all speakers, and power the sub. D


Does that not seem worthwhile?


With the current setup it sounds good, but i lack the bass. And I also lost my fading capability which leaves the rear speakers overpowering the front.


Do you think that it is better to just leave the system where it is now and power the front speakers with amp as well as the sub with the bridge rear channels and then run the rear speakers off the head unit?


----------



## tundrSQ

have you considered keeping your current amp, and adding a mono subwoofer amp?



and sure the HU upgrade sounds fine if it will give you all the outputs you need. But keep in mind, you dont need fading capability...you need level setting capability.


So instead of upgrading, if you add a mono amp instead....and then power your front and rear speakers off the 4 channel current amp...you can balance the levels with your amp.


and if the current amp or new mono amp has and RCA pass thru ...you can pass thru the signal to the new mono amp and be done.


so instead of replacing 2 things...you just add one...and you get more flexibility down the road to change out one or the other amps depending on your needs.


----------



## nole13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tundrSQ*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22586844
> 
> 
> have you considered keeping your current amp, and adding a mono subwoofer amp?
> 
> and sure the HU upgrade sounds fine if it will give you all the outputs you need. But keep in mind, you dont need fading capability...you need level setting capability.
> 
> So instead of upgrading, if you add a mono amp instead....and then power your front and rear speakers off the 4 channel current amp...you can balance the levels with your amp.
> 
> and if the current amp or new mono amp has and RCA pass thru ...you can pass thru the signal to the new mono amp and be done.
> 
> so instead of replacing 2 things...you just add one...and you get more flexibility down the road to change out one or the other amps depending on your needs.



Don't have a pass thru on the current amp. Do you have a mono amp you recommend that will work well for my setup? Keeping the current head unit? Also can you follow up on my question about the cracked 6x9?


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22586882
> 
> 
> Don't have a pass thru on the current amp. Do you have a mono amp you recommend that will work well for my setup? Keeping the current head unit? Also can you follow up on my question about the cracked 6x9?



i use this one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19556_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P500-1BD.html 


and as for the 6x9...hard to say...if it is a clean crack and you are able to stabilize it with screws you should be fine for both lo and high freq. i would want to screw it to a solid wood or phenolic baffle...not to the car door which wont be flat.


----------



## nole13

Just got the BA sub in the mail, waiting to test it out. Does anyone have a wiring diagram to show how to wire the four speakers (4 ohm) to present a 2 ohm load on the front two channels and then I can bridge the rear channels for the sub.


----------



## cubdenno

It's called parallel wiring. Just wire both sets of speakers to the front two channels. Each speaker is a four ohm load. Parallel wiring makes the amplifier "see" a two ohm load on those two channels.


So you have two amplifier outputs. On the front two channels. You use one for the left and one for the right speakers.


There is a positive and a negative for each pair. Just wire each left speaker (front and rear) to the front left channel on the amplifier. Do the same for the right side speakers on the front right amp channel.


----------



## nole13

Okay so its all hooked up. It sounds good, but I feel like its still leaning towards the rear and the front speakers are acting as fill. Is there anyway to tune it via the amp so that the rear speakers are faded a little. Or do i have to switch around my set up in order to accomplish that?


----------



## cubdenno

You can order an l-pad. It's a variable resistor. You would use it on the 6x9's to reduce the output.


Otherwise you could power the 6x9's from the head unit or get a mono amp to drive the sub and power the main speakers with the current amp and use e gain control to level out the interior speakers.


----------



## nole13

Will using a mono amp that has an input and line out rca ports allow me to then fade my sound?


----------



## tundrSQ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nole13*  /t/1434755/need-help-wiring-amp-sub-to-headunit-custom-setup/60#post_22599761
> 
> 
> Will using a mono amp that has an input and line out rca ports allow me to then fade my sound?



its "possible" to set something up that would allow you to fade, but it would not be ideal.



However what it WOULD allow you to do is level match the front rear and subwoofer. Which in my p[inion is 10 time more important than being able to fade.


----------



## nole13

 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20812_Power-Acoustik-BAMF-1800-2-BAMF1800-2-R-B.html 


Is this a good amp for the sub? Also would I have to run another power wire from the battery through the firewall?


----------



## cubdenno

 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32466_RE-Audio-DTS-1500.1-DTS15001.html 


Spend a little more and get a mono class d sub amp. More efficient, more power, more subwoofer specific features.


As for the wire, get a 1/0 kit or something similar like this one. For the money, hard to beat.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7280_e2-E3200-by-Scosche.html


----------

