# How are RCA F38310 owners doing?



## Captain Nemo

Just checked odometer at 19,520, I have the J4 model made in early 2001. I ran a service test and all came back OK.











Yours?


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## lemmy999

Mine is at 1800 hours. It was a refurb bought in Jan 2002. It is a JX2 Made in 2000. My TV had to have a coil replaced because of a 15.7khz squeel, and a fan got noisy which I replaced myself. The only other complaint I have is how the Fill mode stretches by 50% in the vertical direction instead of the 33% that it is supposed to. I am thinking of building a chipper check interface box to see if I can fix the problem. I just ordered the service manual on CD and it is on the way.


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## m1fuller68

Captain,


How do you run a service test? I've had that RCA model for 15 months with no problems...very happy...


thanks


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## Captain Nemo

On top of the HDTV there are a number of buttons. Correct sequence is Info, Menu-OK and right side of volume (plus). Put your 3 fingers on these buttons at one time, if you did it right you will see a darker color of grey, in towards the middle.




Take your purple button in center of remote and with what ever color you 'chose'(Blue, Green etc) push right arrow. Hit OK button and HDTV will start doing its own diagnostic tests. One by one if alright you will see OK in caps.



Odometer reading of hours used, go back to Button to left. Odometer, 'again' choose right arrow and hit OK button. Hours used will be displayed. Get out of Service Menu at 'any' time hit clear on lower right purple button your using.



Print and USE these instructions until it becomes second nature to you.


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## bootz

Mine seems to be OK (open box from Dec 2002) with one exception. The set has developed a vertical line about 4 inches from the left side of the screen. The line is not completely straight but it is static (probably not a ground loop problem.)


It is normally only visible on a reddish background, however it is becoming very annoying. Here's hoping it is being caused by some electrical interference and not a picture tube problem. :/


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## Captain Nemo

I have had no problems since I bought the 2 week old floor model, off of a local dealer not a CC or BB. I would buy it all over again, for none of the Plasma, LyCOS, or L.C.D. models have my 1280 x 1080, pitch .65!



It is my contention although they are big and heavy, they make it up in performance. I can either have, my wide screen movie or my I8500 Dell Laptop if I wanted it on my HDTV, by using a Component Adapter to the component input to have a full HTPC



My laptop has a WSXVGA+ view towards a flat built in 16 X 10 L.C. D. screen on my laptop.F38310 for a crystal clear view without having to use my HDTV.











P.S. Edit I am taking WebTV off, for DSL is my choice.


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## wward

I've had mine for almost a year I obtained mine directly from the Thompson factory I have had no problems to date.


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## Captain Nemo

I have done so much DVD watching in the last two years and the F38 has performed admirally. I would buy it al over again at $2999, which is what I paid for a showroom tweaked out unit. ISF calibration was performed on all of his showroom models. From all that I read at AVS a lot had problems the first day or 2 weeks from day one.



Have all of you measured your F38, I have and my diaginol is 39 inches not 38. A figure of 39" which gives me a height of 19 9/16 and width of 34.5. Is it just my F38 or does anyone else have the *in glass* configuration that my HDTV has?


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## jwheeler

Hey captain, please tell me more about using the PC with this set. What brand component adapter are you using and at what resolution do you have your puter set at? I am very interested in hooking my PC up to my set and would like some feed back from others who have doen this with the F38310.


By the way my set is a YX5 and was purchased in December 02 open box at CC for $1250.00 with 96 hours on the clock. It now has 5237 hours and has worked fine with the exception of an audio problem that I have yet to get fixed. One channel is out over the internal speakers and through the RCA outputs. The Optical still works so I havent messed with it for fear the RCA techs might drop the set when they pick it up. Need to get it resolved before the 1 year manufacturer warranty expires even though I have an extended CC warranty. I just dont trust CC to work on this set.


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## Captain Nemo

I would not recommend it with this HDTV. Here are my reasons:


Laptop has upgrade WSXVGA+ 1,680 X 1,050 which in terms of pixels 1,764,000, the LT has more than the F38310 in the 15.4 inch with a *.197* dot pitch. Contrast is 300:1 with 17.6 million colors available in the Wide Screen 16 x 10 15.4 inch diaginol L.C.D. display



F38310 has a 1,280 x 1,080 or 1,382,400 in a 20 inch high by 34.5 inch width, with a *.65* dot pitch.



IMHO the pixels are spread too far apart to get the same picture as the laptop.



For proof you can find the details on www.dell.com and www.rca.com


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## HDTV888




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Captain Nemo_
> *I have done so much DVD watching in the last two years and the F38 has performed admirally. I would buy it al over again at $2999, which is what I paid for a showroom tweaked out unit. ISF calibration was performed on all of his showroom models. From all that I read at AVS a lot had problems the first day or 2 weeks from day one.
> 
> 
> Have all of you measured your F38, I have and my diaginol is 39 inches not 38. A figure of 39" which gives me a height of 19 9/16 and width of 34.5. Is it just my F38 or does anyone else have the *in glass* configuration that my HDTV has?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Never even thought of measuring my TV, but you are right, 39"!

$2000 from Sears, Thanksgiving 2001. Happiest $2000 I've ever spent. Just the Salt Lake Olympics alone was worth the purchase.

No other TV can compare with this set in PQ. Only gripe is that 38" just isn't quite big enough.

No problems at all, I must be extremely lucky.


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## Captain Nemo

Surprise 39 inches, most fall short but this one has a bit bigger diaginol. I agree this HDTV should be at least 50 inches and a couple of million more pixels, than the 1280 X 1080= 1,382,400 that the F38 has.



My Dell I8500 lap top has a 1680 x 1050 or 1,764,000 pixels on a 15.4 inch diaginol, 382,000 more than the F38 to be exact. To have the same amout of display I would gather it needs at least 3 times the amount shown, that would give it 46.2 inches.



3.5 times would give it the WSXVGA and 4.5 times would give it a 1920 X 1200 = 2.3 Million pixels and a dot pitch of .172 WUXVGA the best rate for computer and HD-DVD viewing IMHO.


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## Kipp Jones

All good here.


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## locomo

Captain Nemo,

I'm a little confused. In one post you connect a "I8500 Dell Laptop on my HDTV by using a Component Adapter ".

In another "I would not recommend it with this HDTV". I was wondering like jwheeler which component adapter etc. you were using.

Myself, I bought a "no box" YX5 at CC 30 days ago and other than a couple of "dirty fingerprints" have been extremely pleased.


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## jwheeler

Yeah i was a bit confused by your answer too Captain. You said it has a crystal clear view. If so then why dont you recomend it as an appropriate display? I understand a program called Powerstrip can do wonders with resolution problems as well.


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## Captain Nemo

Men I think you believe I have a HTPC, I was saying that I could have a HTPC *if* I bought a VGA/component adapter. When I found out the tiny lap top had more pixels than my F38310 in the 15.4 diaginol measure. I realized it would be better not to try it with this model, maybe a future model with a lot more pixels to lower the high dot pitch of .65 the F38 has.



I have the free upgrade of WSXVGA+ that is 1680 X 1050 or 1,764,000 pixels, dot pitch is .197! F38 is 1280 X 1080= 1,382,400 pixels and dot pitch of .65. I have put them side to side and you get a whopping clear picture with the WSXVGA, but a HDTV needing more pixels than it has to give, you can't expect the same clear view.



The maximum the Inspiron 8500 you can order is the WUGA which has 1920 X 1200= 2,300,000 pixels and a dot pitch of .172! F38310 is great for watching movies, but not so great as HTPC as you can see above. Proof www.dell.com and www.rca.com











P.S. I am sorry if you misread my post.


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## mdv

Captain Nemo, you aren't by chance the fellow who used to post as Hob are you?


Mark


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## Captain Nemo




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mdv_
> *Captain Nemo, you aren't by chance the fellow who used to post as Hob are you?
> 
> 
> Mark*





Mark I am sure there is more than one hob in the world. The subject is the RCA F38310 got one if so how are you doing with it?


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## reybie

I have had mine since uhm... less than a year I think... wait, no I'm sure because I have 18months to pay it or I suffer the consequences (accrued interest! LOL).


I haven't had any problem with it and I love it so far. I dunno what production model it is or something like that because the back is too close to the wall and the damn thing is heavy as heck.


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## ThumperBoy

Notice Captain Nemo didn't deny he is THE HOB! Hob is definitely back!


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## wdcoy

Have had mine for about 2 1/2 years and still love it. Had a friend calibrate it about a month ago and looks even better. Mostly watching HD & regular TV on it. Got a Z1 projector in February and watch all my DVD's with it on a 100" screen in the back bedroom.


Don


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## Captain Nemo

I know many characters on the internet, and hob is one of them. Would you like me to contact him and come back to the AVS forum?


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## ThumperBoy

Yes of course we all loved HOB! But it is obvious HOB is already here, Capt Nemo, as you well know!


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## Captain Nemo

I copied his style for posting he didn't provoke anyone until he was provoked. He also didn't get the full picture of 4:3. Home Theater talk was about 16 X 9. Like the movie "Primal fear" with Richard Gere, Laura Linney, John C. Mcginley, and others of the movie "Jade" and the term hysterical blindness.



Living by himself for over 18 years with no friends or anyone to talk to is hard on him. He lives in a elderly and disabled apartment building, and rarely ventures out except for food.



Not much of a life for a man who retired at age 38, now 56 and nothing has changed.

He is still crippled and his mother only has a few years to live. The guy is resourceful he will find a way to keep his HDTV, whether it's name is RCA or some other name and not 38 inches but 50 inches or a bit more. He's still thrilled to own the F38310JX4 and 4 DVD changers filled connected to the F38 by this neat 6 to 1 conversion of a device into one component.
http://www.inlineinc.com/products/matrix/3506.htm


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## ThumperBoy

You reveal yourself Captain, since only HOB would know all that detailed information about him! Glad to see you back under your new name!


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## Captain Nemo

Thumperboy hob was kicked off AVS, anyone stating he is hob, their account would be terminated. I am Captain Nemo alter ego of hob he's my best buddy, we keep in mental contact.



You know he has some problems not running on all cylinders is one, but I judge that to 18 years of seclusion for the unwanted crippled man. He has spent more time tweaking that F38 than a lot of guys, he unhooked the VSM to not have to turn down the sharpness to 0 all the time.



He must have his share of brilliance and lonliness, now he's got his own computer.

You see he must have goals he sets every day to complete. Like Hyper-threading

keeping two programs running, one stops he starts another and this goes on week after week, year after year all by himself. For him there is no holidays, weekends or vacations. His favorite saying is there is no holidays those days are simply like a sunday, a day without mail.


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## ThumperBoy

Keep on going there HOB - keep up the good fight against those darn outdated FoolScreens!


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## Captain Nemo

ThumperBoy Hob started that one and it's going all around the internet, Hobs contribution to Full Frame ignorance. He tried to get people to realize that when all is digital, there will be 4 sides of the hated by them black bars on 4:3 DVD.



To us there is only 2, and we turn the lights out like the 2 movies I watched in a row, on the F38310. Carrie 2: The Rage and Leviathan really make you feel your at a movie theater! 19 9/16 inches high and 34.5 inches wide in glass measurements.


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## dicko2

Mine is giving me problems, though technically its not really the TVs fault. Fox owns 2 tv stations in the Chicago area, Fox and WB networks. On both of them they've decided to transmit some erroneous signal on the PSIP that causes the F31380 to immediately switch over to the associated analog channel. So no digital reception for Fox or WB in Chicago if you own one of these sets. Same goes for owners of DTC-100.


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## RandD

Mine is running great! One year in service today.


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## GoatBeard

13,375 hours and going strong


Bought the F38 floor model from a high-end electronics store for $1800 last winter. It had a couple of scratches on the bezel but full warrenty. Oh, also it was calibrated for free!


Not only would I buy it again, but I've been trying to sell all my 'plazma hungry' friends on this most excellent TV. w00t!


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## MF70

I bought mine from Good Guys on April 21, 2001, for $2830. I am very happywith it and purchased the service manual from Tompson. What I now would like to learn is the procedure for doing color adjustments. The manual has absolutely no instructions on procedures. I have used this set with my HTPC using an Audio Authority VGA-Component transcoder and PowerStrip to set the resolution at 848 X 480. I have also used the Y-Pb-Pr adapter for my ATI 9700 Radeon Pro video card to see both my desktop and video playback at a resolution of 1920 X 1080i. The desktop looks much better with the Audio Authority and PowerStrip at 848 X 480. But the video playback with a MyHD card and a Fusion HD card look quite satisfactorily at 1920 X 1080i using the ATI adapter. I am also using a component-video selector I purchased from http://www.avtoolbox.com which acomodates 4 inputs and two independently-selectable outputs. As for digital audio, I am using a 4-input 1 output optical selector with remote control I purchased from http://www.mcmelectronics.com for $50 plus S&H and plus tax.


After 2 years and 3 months, I am quite happy with the RCA F38310.


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## jwheeler

Hey MF70, You are the one I need to talk too. I have been looking for someone who has been using the F38310 as a HTPC or video monitor and haven't heard back from anyone until now. Can I get more info from you on your setup and results? I am very much interested in a similar hook up. Thanks...Jeff


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## MF70

Hi, Jeff!

I would be very glad to help you in any way I can. But it might be easier for us to use email instead of posts on this thread. Please, make a note of my email address: [email protected]


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## Rick Fehnel

I don't have a dvd player yet for my F38310.


Would you guys recommend a panasonic xp30 or would the scalable panasonic rp91 be better?


thanks,

Rick


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## jwheeler

Thanks MF70. I will e-mail you sometime this week. Thanks so much...Jeff


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## locomo

Rick,

I'd go for the xp30, for the better pictue. I've got a cp72 with a zoom function, that I've never seen any difference with it on or off. I do have it hooked up with svideo for using the 38310's zoom (just in case) and component for regular use.


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## MikeNorman

20,199 hours on JX4 set. I ordered my set August of 2000 and received it April 6, 2001. I got caught up in the several month delay when RCA stop making the set to fix all the known problems. Price was $3,000 for set, 24 inch dish, stand, and free progressive scan RCA DVD player.


Love the set and have not had any problems other then replacing the remote.


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## MrGonk

I had a suspicion hob, er, captain nemo was back when someone started busting out those high odometer counts for the f38310...


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## sheaton

I have one and I love it! I faked problems to get the problem diodes and caps replaced right away. After they were changed, the OTA channel changing was faster.


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## reybie

I am scheduled for service next week. Someone mentioned that it might be the capacitor/diode problem for my set. I just lost picture after changing channels.


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## jbraden

I've had my F38310 since November, and no problems so far. It's a great set, and I love the picture on HD OTA broadcasts. I do have a question for the other set owners on this forum though... I'd like to set up an HT audio system using the internal speakers of the F38310 as the center front speaker. Has anyone else been able to do this? Thanks!


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## Sorny

Don't do it. You will not get a good sound stage using those shoddy speakers for any sort of HT sound. No center speaker is better than what you'll get from those things!


Sorny


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## pabear

The activation date on mine is 10/09/2000 and the In Service Counter is 28,256! And I didn't think I watched much TV


I have had ZERO problems with this unit. I love it. The PQ is better than any of the LCD's that I've seen recently. Can't wait to get cable HD programming setup this week at my new home.


I got this for $2k at Sears when they first came out. Great purchase decision, but it is VERY heavy. I did manage to get it up off the floor and on the factory base by myself, though!


-Mike


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## Jet Champion

If any of you manufacturers out there is listening it is possible to make widescreen direct-view in a size this large and to make money--quit trying to pawn off crummy LCD, expensive plasma, dim RPTV CRT, dithering DLP, and give the people what they want--LARGE direct-view widescreen HDTV! Mighty Sony are you listening? Are you saying you can't produce such a TV but lowly Thompson can? What's that Loewe--it's impossible to produce it for that price? Toshiba--you pay lip service at the CES to direct-view and Joe six-pack--how about replicating mighty RCA? All you manufacturers out there do you think you can just MAKE us watch crummy LCD in this size? Give the people what they want...if plasma and DLP and LCD are truly that great I'm sure that eveyone will switch to them eventually, but in the meantime make large widescreen direct-view for all the people that are used to buying just a plain old regular television and when you count all the money you've made then thank me--if you make it I'll buy it and I will certainly thank you!


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## Bionic Manaus

There is only 1 Hob thank goodness too bad it's me, I went to change my name to Catain No One which it is what nemo in latin means, but I came back as Captain Nemo. Trying yet again to be with my friends I made at AVS forum I screwed up Bionic Man usa to Bionic Manaus, David Bott forgave me yet again so It's still "Mr. Hobbs Takes a Vacation"












P.S. Hob's Lane a old name for the Devil in "Quatermass and the Pit".

Hob is in the name hobby take your pick fellas, I still want my Maypo and my Alice B. Toklas Brownies (marijuana, and name where 'toke' came from)


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## ThumperBoy

Just go back to ole' HOB!


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## Bionic Manaus

On February 16th I will be 57 years old, that's real old, Time to put my 12 vibrators to work and give me a total massage, I'll be thinking of all of you while your at work, I haven't worked since June 9, 1985; have a nice day at work so you can buy some more DVD or HDTV godies to relax with.


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## jwheeler

Hey John, what did happen to you 20 years ago?


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## Bionic Manaus

Road Accident driving a tractor trailer and some 89 year old jerk decided to back up in the middle lane because he issed his exit. I was driving a COE(Cab Over Engine) and since I was passing 4 children I looked into possibly pushing them off but there were large boulders and I couldn't do it. I looked in my left frisco mirror a yellow pickemup truck was passing me and we had concrete K-rails as a center divider. I couldn't kill the kids so I deliberately jack knifed the truck so the length would be across the road and only gover a few times. The Parents stayed for the Conneticut State police and told them his number, and asked if that driver was still alive please thank him for what he did to save our 4 children. The CT police told me the story 3 days after for I was in a coma, the seat belt didn't hold me and I was tossed about the truck. I lost my index finger on my left hand, I was told my left ankle was crushed and I had 6 broken ribs and a concussion which drove me into the 3 day coma. I can read it off to you like it was yesterday June 9(Sunday) 1985, the memories and the fact that at age 38 I wouldn't be working or walking ever again.




I will be 57 on February 16 th, looking forward to buying myself a s***lode of gifts to myself, that's what birthdays are for if your not given any you treat yourself. I have ordered a bottle of Champagne from the New England

states, coming down by U.P.S. just like Mr. Bond a bottle of 1995 Bollinger Champagne at $100, h*ll I am worth it and I will drink to my friends at AVS my dead wife and my keeping my toys already paid for.


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## jwheeler

Wow! I must say that accident sounds bad but im glad you could avoid the kids. Ya know you should post some pick of that much talked about HT of yours. And maybe one of yourself too. Happy Birthday!


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## Bionic Manaus

I look like Logan in Logans Run or Luke when it was Luke and Laura on General Hospital, I can't put a picture of myself on the last one put on was quickly taken off. Take a look at the forum do you see anyone in their wheelchair, there is a reason for this. If you want to see a pic of a RCA F338310 do a google image search and you will see a few. Mine is by itself the best way to keep the HDTV cool, not in heat producing entertainment center. Thanks for the early birthday wish.


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## offsite123

Hey Hob!


Still enjoying this gargantuan TV... thanks to your (and others') inputs when we were just newbie shoppers visiting AVSForum for the first time almost two years ago.


In retrospect you clearly pointed us in the right direction.


Thank you for that!


As you may recall we were the crazies who got the idea to house this monster (and all its associated components) on a RubberMaid Platform Truck so we could move it anywhere in the house on a PRN basis... and time has vetted that concept (except from the interior decoration stand point)










Still have the RP91 for playing DVDs... and just added a DMR-E100H DVD recorder we are using to convert all the VHS and home movie tapes to a (hopefully) more secure medium. Or at least one that takes up a whole lot less space to store.


Maybe someday on one of our treks thru GG or BB or Tweeter we'll see something better than your wonderful old F38310... but that certainly hasn't happened yet.


I'm guessing some day we'll end up with an FP unit due to it's inherent flexibility (any time, any size, anywhere) but that technology is a long way from cost effective or even competitive with DV right now in the areas we care about.


So, for the months of enjoyment when we might otherwise have waited for "something better", we say "thank you"... and Happy Birthday, Hob!


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## Bionic Manaus

offsite123 Still a happy camper owning that thousands of good viewing movies, last one today was "The Day The Earth Stood Still" in the 19.5 inch high and 34.125 inch width. These are inside glass measurements of a 39 inch diaginol and thousands of DVDs later than 2001. Thanks for the birthday wish; too bad I have to drink that champagne alone as usual.


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## tommylotto

14 months of constant use and still going strong. I recently learned something new about this set. The dreaded "pincushion effect" is introduced when the internal scaler converts 480i and 480p sources into 540p for display. I had bought an iScan to create the best possible 480p from my sources, only to have the set's internal scaler introduce geometric errors. So, I'm selling the iScan on ebay and just bought a Momitsu V880 DVD player. This player is one of the rare players that will output 1080i on its component outputs. Thus, the 1080i signal is natively displayed by the F38310 without running the signal through the crappy scaler -- no more pincushion effect! on DVD.


My DirectTivo is still affected, but in a few months the HD DirectTivo will be available and it scales everything to 1080i. Then everything I display on my set will be 1080i, I'll never use the internal scaler and everything will look perfect.


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## jwheeler

tommylotto, I pm'ed you about your upcomming Momitsu.


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## jkstorer

My JX4 (purchased December 2001, with new DM1 board in June 2002) is still running fine. Odometer must have been reset with new DM1 as it starts in June with 14,500 hours.


Question, did I have my caps and diodes replaced when the DM1 was replaced? The shop said it was a remanufactured board.


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## Shroud

11,355 hours and still running strong. Bought December 2002 at Circuit City, price paid was $1499.


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## AggiePilk

2 years old and working like a champ! I have had no problems at all. I keep toying with the idea of moving it to the gameroom and buying a 50" Plasma. Then I go to the LCD/Plasma Forum and I am easily talked out of it!


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## UncD2000

My F38310 is doing fine after 3 years of heavy usage. I recently acquired a Sony SAT-HD300 to complement the built-in DTC-100, and it has revealed substantial overscan at the sides of the screen when 1080i is input to the component input of the F38310. Perhaps this is why the "edge compression" disappears with the Momitsu V880 as tommylotto describes above. It has simply been pushed off the screen into the overscan area! When the HD300 outputs 480i, the edge compression is seen as usual. This seems to validate conclusions in this forum about 2 years ago that the only way to eliminate the edge compression is to move it offscreen by increasing overscan. I don't care for this "solution" personally. Could anyone tell me if there are adjustments in the service menu that will get rid of the increased overscan on 1080i sources connected to the component input of the F38310? Thanks.


Edit: Reducing the overscan on component input to the minimum (1% at all 4 edges per Avia) still leaves a noticeable difference (for example, in the position of a logo) from what is seen via the built-in tuner. This is due to the greater edge compression on the component input rather than a difference in overscan.


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## Ratman

Horizontal size (P:05)

Horizontal position (P:04)


Vertical size (P:11)

Veritical position (P:10 course)

Vertical position (P:13 fine)


pincushion/parabola (P:07)


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## UncD2000

Thanks very much for your help on this.


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## RandD

2 years old and working great! I have had no problems at all.


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## WOLVERNOLE

I think ya'll scared the "Captain" off. Let HOB rest, and welcome in Captain Nemo.


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## everton4




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tommylotto_
> *14 months of constant use and still going strong. I recently learned something new about this set. The dreaded "pincushion effect" is introduced when the internal scaler converts 480i and 480p sources into 540p for display. I had bought an iScan to create the best possible 480p from my sources, only to have the set's internal scaler introduce geometric errors. So, I'm selling the iScan on ebay and just bought a Momitsu V880 DVD player. This player is one of the rare players that will output 1080i on its component outputs. Thus, the 1080i signal is natively displayed by the F38310 without running the signal through the crappy scaler -- no more pincushion effect! on DVD.
> 
> 
> My DirectTivo is still affected, but in a few months the HD DirectTivo will be available and it scales everything to 1080i. Then everything I display on my set will be 1080i, I'll never use the internal scaler and everything will look perfect.*



Hey tommylotto...did you end up getting your DirecTV HD Tivo..and if so any problems with hooking it up to the f38310?


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## tommylotto




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by everton4_
> *Hey tommylotto...did you end up getting your DirecTV HD Tivo..and if so any problems with hooking it up to the f38310?*



I pre-ordered from Value Electronics on 1/21. It was represented that I was one of the first 350 orders and would be in their first allocation. VE accepted my money on false pretenses. I was far outside the first 350, and not even in the first three allotments. Now, other distributors are getting limited quantities and people who ordered elsewhere in April or May are getting theirs before my order is filled. VE lied (at least to me), but if you say that over at the Tivo Community thread, you would be hounded by the fanboys.


The latest disinformation spread by VE is that my order should be filled next week. We will see...


I was interested in the over-scan comment on my perceived correction to the barrel roll effect. I have not notice any over-scan problem, but I have not been looking for it. This weekend I'll do a test with my Avia DVD to see if he is right. Even if he is, the over-scan is not really noticeable and better than the barrel roll effect. But, of course, I want to know what I am sacrificing.


If you really want to be anal, I heard of one guy who sent all his signals into an HTPC and compressed the image. Then he went into the service menu and stretched the picture until the distortion was off the screen. The compression and stretching canceled each other leaving a normal picture without barrel roll.


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## jwheeler

tommylotto, please respond back to this thread and let us know what happens. Very interested in how this turns out. Thanks...Jeff


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## jwheeler

Anyone with the F38310 have Voom? If so how do you like and how are you sorting out multiple connections?


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## UncD2000

Is there a separate set of adjustable parameters for the component (and other) inputs? I have always entered the service menu by pressing TV-DirecTV and Ch. down simultaneously. The overscan adjustments made there only affect the set's internal tuners. I have adjusted down close to zero overscan there, but the various inputs (per Avia) have about 2% at top & bottom, and 3% at each side. This didn't really bother me until I got a Sony SAT-HD300. I miss the inch of material at each side that vanishes into the overscan area when I view HD material on the Sony. Could anyone advise me how to access and change the parameters that affect the component and other inputs? Thanks.


----------



## Ratman

All inputs are independant (component, Vid1,2 FRNT, S-video)... even the antnenna inputs.


You must have the TV displaying/set to the input you want to adjust BEFORE you enter 'service mode'.


After adjustments are made, you MUST exit 'service mode' to save those settings for that particular input.


Then you can switch to the next input, enter service mode, adjust and exit.


----------



## UncD2000

Thanks again for the help, Ratman. After a few misfires I managed to get the component input down to about 1% overscan. For some reason it won't display quite as much as the built-in DTC-100, but it will be fine. When I changed to the video inputs, I was unable to get "P" off zero, but strangely, the changes I made to component seem to have changed Video 1,2,& 3 as well, so their overscan is now around 1% as well. I am now encouraged to order a Zenith DVB318 upconverting DVD player to see if this reduces or eliminates the edge compression as tommylotto describes above. Thanks again.


----------



## tommylotto

I have not been able to check the overscan on the Momitsu with Avia yet. When you reduced the overscan on the service menu, did you get edge compression on 1080i from your Sony receiver?


P.S. The Zenith looks perfect and the price is nice, but just make sure that it will output 1080i through the component output for Macrovision protected disks. The Momitsu has a secret menu that enable regions and macrovision protection to be disabled.


----------



## MF70

I bought my F39310 on April 21, 2001 and it worked fine until last Sunday, May 23, 2004. For 3 years, 1 month, and 2 days I had my fun. Last Sunday, we watched until 6 PM, turned it off, had dinner, and returned to it at 8 PM. Turned it on, or tried to, but not even the fan started! Luckly for me, I purchased an extended warranty service for 5 years, and the teck is coming over tomorrow to fix it. The outlet is OK, the AC cord is OK, for I measure 117 volts AC on the female side of the power cord. It is the set that just won't allow those electrons to flow through it. Could be an internal fuse!


----------



## jwheeler

Anyone running Voom on their sets?


----------



## UncD2000

tommylotto, there is a small degree of edge compression now at 1080i from the HD300, but you have to be looking for it. It's about the same as I have had with the built-in DTC-100 since I cut the overscan to near zero. When I first took delivery of my F38310 3 years ago, I think the factory-set overscan on the DTC-100 was around 2%, and I could not detect any edge compression on 1080i material. I left it that way for a long time.


As for the DVB318, evidently units delivered so far have been OK, but I see in the long thread that many are afraid that LG/Zenith will disable 1080i for protected material via component at some point. Think I'll get one at the nice price offered at gochnauers.com, and if it doesn't work out it will be a nice gift for my niece who just got a new Sanyo TV with HDMI.


----------



## tommylotto

Finally got the HD-TIVO. (bought from Costa Mesa Magnolia/BB Store -- will cancel Value Electronics Pre-Order) I have not been able to compare the PQ of the HD Tivo and the internal tuner with any good quality HD yet, but there is definetly more overscan on the 1080i Component input. The HDNet logo is right along the bottom edge of the screen. I guess, I'm going to have to get into that service menu. Are the settings listed by Ratman a good compromise between overscan and edge compresssion or will I need to experiment?


----------



## Ratman

Be cautious and experiment... all TV's are different.


Just be sure write down the P:x and V:x values BEFORE you make any change.


It's been three years with my set and I still occasionally 'nudge' a value.


----------



## Jet Champion

Do any of the 38310 owners think any other companies will ever try to produce a 38-inch 16:9 CRT? How much difference does the 4 additional inches make for your viewing pleasure?


----------



## UncD2000

I wanted to have my viewing distance at the optimal (for widescreen 1080i) 3.2X picture height (or 1.57X diagonal). This puts me about 5' from my 38" display, which worked out ideally for my room dimensions and speaker placements. With a 34" display, my viewing distance would be a less than ideal 53.3". FWIW, at 1.57 X widescreen diagonal you experience a viewing angle width of 31 degrees which gives a nice sense of involvement.


----------



## locomo

MF70,

Did the tech fix your set?

Did you ever have the capacitors replaced?


----------



## MF70




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by locomo_
> *MF70,
> 
> Did the tech fix your set?
> 
> Did you ever have the capacitors replaced?*



The tech came over yesterday, 26 May, and replaced a module on the right side of the box. Tha did NOT fix the problem, and he said that the next step was to take the set into the shop for the replacement of various parts. That work could not be completed at my house because it takes longer than the limit of 20 minutes his company allows. I asked when I can expect the set back, and he said that would be about one week. I was not aware of any capacitor problems, but would appeciate hearing about it right now. Ny 5-year extended warranty runs until May 21, 2006, and I hope to have all the fixes in before then. Thanks, locomo, for bringing this to my attention.


----------



## UncD2000

As mentioned above, the minimum overscan I was able to achieve on the component input (per Avia) was 1% at all 4 edges. Here are the changes I made to get there: (P=parameter) P-04 (horiz. position) 38 - no change - was exactly centered). P-05 (width) - changed from 39 to 22 to get minimum width. P-10 (vert. position - coarse) changed from 4 to 3 for exact centering. P-11 (vert. size) changed from 37 to 34 for minimum height.

P-13 (vert. position - fine) unchanged at 38. BTW, with my overscan now at 1% on component input, Avia shows considerable edge compression on the circle hatch pattern and a 480i DVD player. My Zenith DVB318 is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Will recheck Avia with the 1080i upconvert and report back on this thread if there's any improvement in edge compression.


----------



## locomo

MF70,

I had my caps changed out before they "went bad all the way".

It's possible that once they go, they can take out other things like some diodes.

Ratman and others here, know a whole lot more about this stuff than myself.

UncD2000,

I think that more than just a few of us are real interested on your findings on the Zenith 318.


----------



## UncD2000

locomo, the DVB318 hasn't arrived yet, but I don't believe at this point that it will affect the edge compression issue. I was looking back on a letter I wrote to Thomson Multimedia Inc. 3 years ago, and my conclusion then was that the two stretch modes ("full" and "fill") are the source of the edge compression. Since selecting the component input automatically engages the "full" mode, that input will always be affected by edge compression. Thus, by reducing the overscan on that input to the minimum, I probably made the situation worse, but that's a tradeoff I can live with as my first priority is to view as much of the image as possible. When the DTC-100 tuner receives a 1080i signal, it locks into "16:9 mode" and displays this fact. There is virtually no edge compression in "16:9 mode." Nor is there any in the "normal" viewing mode for 480i material. It's only when the "full" or "fill" stretch modes are engaged that this non-linear expansion occurs. I will return shortly and edit my posts above to remove some erroneous and misleading conclusions.


----------



## radicon

UncD2000


You might be interested in reading the thread at hdtvoice.com



> RCA - ProScan HDTV Sets > A real HD television



Starting at thread #17, Ratman and I discussed this same issue on the overscan.


My unit is a JX5 manufactured in 02/2002 and purchased from CC in 12/2002. I figure that this was an open box that was repaired by CC as the caps have been replaced. So far to date the unit has been working like a champ with 13,000 plus hours.


----------



## UncD2000

Thanks for the reference to the interesting discussion. I'll report back on what the DVB318 does, but I won't be surprised if the edge compression persists. I still believe RCA could have solved the problem years ago with a replacement for the circuit board that controls the "full" and "fill" stretch mode function (or perhaps even with a firmware "fix" via satellite download for D* subscribers), but they had just done a costly recall on the F38310 in late 2000 to fix another problem, so they "cheaped out" on the edge compression issue, and finally discontinued the F38310 rather than commit more money to correcting its faults.


Their "solution" of moving the compression offscreen is unacceptable. I realize that 5% overscan at the 4 edges is not unusual on TV displays, but that is a loss of 19% of the image (0.9 horiz X 0.9 vert = 0.81). There is much anguish in this forum about HBO-HD panning/scanning 2.35 movies to fill the 16:9 screen (which discards 24% of the image), but relatively little mentioned about image loss to overscan. I'm going to continue with my overscan at the minimum on all sources. A little edge compression here and there is by far the lesser of the evils.


----------



## MF70




> _Originally posted by locomo_
> 
> *MF70,
> 
> I had my caps changed out before they "went bad all the way".
> 
> It's possible that once they go, they can take out other things like some diodes.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info, locomo! My set was taken to the shop last Wednesday, May 26; yesterday, I got a call from the shop and was told that the set will be delivered back to me next Wednesday, June 3. I could call them and ask about replacement of the caps, but would like to now exactly what caps these are. Can anybody tell me that? I don't know whether the office guy at the shop would know what I am talking about. Thanks!*


----------



## Ratman

I believe the caps are C14113/14115 ... and if the diodes are bad CR14107/14117


The chassis # for the F38310 is DTV306


Ask them to check Thomson's service bulletins for the proper capacitor values. Do not replace with the 'same' type of caps or the problem will reoccur!

(I dont' remember off hand.. I'll snoop around and see if I can find the recommended upgrade values).


----------



## UncD2000

Sorry to report that the DVB318 does not eliminate edge compression with the 1080i upconvert into the component input. Nice player for $160 though. I may get another for a gift. I'm back to my original theory that the "full" & "fill" stretch modes cause the edge compression. The "16:9" and "Normal" modes do not. Since the component input locks into "full" mode, increasing the overscan on that input is about the only "solution."


----------



## billodom

I just got my set back last Monday after it had been down since April 23. It has been plagued by power supply problems the 2-1/2 years I have owned it and on two separate occasions wires had to be resoldered to the yoke connection. I even had the DM-1 module replaced which turned out to not be necessary. I am having my set calibrated by a local ISF technician this coming Friday, June 4. Since getting the set back I have noticed that the focus is out of whack ever so slightly. Plus I want to get the gray scale set properly and see what this baby is capable of producing picturewise. I'm also curious to see what kind of geometric changes he will make, if any. I don't plan on upgrading to DLP for at least another 18 months so I think it's worth it. I will post the results of the calibration.


----------



## hothandiman

I have had my f38310 for about three years now. Never any problems! OTA local channel HDTV picture quality is awesome.


The one problem I have is hooking this set up to a HTPC. I have used a KDS VGA to component conveter on an AVI 9800 Pro graphics card to try to "clone" the display to the RCA. I have tried endless configurations using Powerstrip, but to no avail. Some say you should use a VGA to Component dongle and not use a transcoder. Has anyone been able to successfully hook this set up to an HTPC? Your help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## locomo

UncD2000,

I know you like to see the "whole picture" but does the Zenith 318's zoom help get rid of the edge compression?

thanks

lo


----------



## elspankdog

OK, my F38310 has started to act up after a little over a year of service. It will not power up via the remote or the power button. You have to unplug/plug it in order to power it on. Before this, it also would lock up occasionally when changing between OTA HD channels. Before I call the Circuit City service people, I was wondering if anyone could refresh me on what I should tell them. Thanks in advance.


Brian


----------



## MF70




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *I believe the caps are C14113/14115 ... and if the diodes are bad CR14107/14117
> 
> 
> The chassis # for the F38310 is DTV306
> 
> 
> Ask them to check Thomson's service bulletins for the proper capacitor values. Do not replace with the 'same' type of caps or the problem will reoccur!
> 
> (I dont' remember off hand.. I'll snoop around and see if I can find the recommended upgrade values).*



Thanks, Ratman! I appreciate the info and will tell the service org when they reopen tomorrow.


----------



## MF70




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by hothandiman_
> *I have had my f38310 for about three years now. Never any problems! OTA local channel HDTV picture quality is awesome.
> 
> 
> The one problem I have is hooking this set up to a HTPC. I have used a KDS VGA to component conveter on an AVI 9800 Pro graphics card to try to "clone" the display to the RCA. I have tried endless configurations using Powerstrip, but to no avail. Some say you should use a VGA to Component dongle and not use a transcoder. Has anyone been able to successfully hook this set up to an HTPC? Your help would be greatly appreciated!*



I have an ATI Radeon 9700 PRO in my PC and use an ATI HD congle to connect to the RCA F38310. At 480p the Windows desktop is very good, but at 1080i it is really bad. However, HD video can be appreciated very well at 1920 X 1080i. I use this resolution to watch WMV demo files as well as the 2 WMV dvd's that I have of Coral Reef and Terminator II. I also have a MyHD tuner card in the PC and use it through its own dongle to watch transport streams, regular dvd's, D-VHS tapes, MPEG streams, etc. In case you are not familiar with the MyHD card, it can be configured to deliver either RGB or YPbPr directly to an HD monitor. Good luck to you!


----------



## hothandiman




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by MF70_
> *I have an ATI Radeon 9700 PRO in my PC and use an ATI HD congle to connect to the RCA F38310. At 480p the Windows desktop is very good, but at 1080i it is really bad. However, HD video can be appreciated very well at 1920 X 1080i. I use this resolution to watch WMV demo files as well as the 2 WMV dvd's that I have of Coral Reef and Terminator II. I also have a MyHD tuner card in the PC and use it through its own dongle to watch transport streams, regular dvd's, D-VHS tapes, MPEG streams, etc. In case you are not familiar with the MyHD card, it can be configured to deliver either RGB or YPbPr directly to an HD monitor. Good luck to you!*



Thanks for the reply! MF70







I am assuming you are using Powerstrip? If so what settings? I just ordered "the purple dongle" from ATI. I understand that it comes with software to make it work. I wonder if this is its own custom resolution software?











Thnaks Again


----------



## locomo

elspankdog,

I wonder how many times I've asked (to no one in particular)

Did you ever have the "cap fix"?

It's usually the number one question.


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by locomo_
> *UncD2000,
> 
> I know you like to see the "whole picture" but does the Zenith 318's zoom help get rid of the edge compression?
> 
> thanks
> 
> lo*



I haven't tried this, but zooming in a bit at the horizontal edges should move the compressed area offscreen in the same way that increasing overscan via the (05) Width parameter in the service menu does. FWIW, it's possible that the function of parameter (05) is defective (non-linear), and that it is responsible for the edge compression (rather than the horizontal stretch of the "full" and "fill" modes).


Someone posted an RCA service bulletin at Home Theater Spot a while back that instructed techs to set overscan at 5% at each edge on the component input. This amount, or even more, is probably pretty typical of most displays as delivered to the consumer. At such settings, the stretch modes on the F38310 probably deliver a total image, including the part that is offscreen, with prettty decent geometry. The edge compression seems to be introduced when the width parameter is decreased to reduce overscan. Instead of a linear compression of width, the center of the image is left alone, and the new material coming in from overscan is squeezed into the outer 4-6 inches on each side (sort of an inverse of a "panorama" stretch mode. Since most F38310s were apparently delivered with less than average overscan, the edge compression became a major complaint issue.


When my F38310 was delivered 3 years ago, edge compression was very noticeable in "full" and "fill" modes, but I could not detect any at all in 16:9 mode. With my overscan now reduced to the minimum, I noticed this morning on the HDNet test pattern that I have some measurable edge compression. Then I ran the Avia disc at 1080i on the DVB318, and the edge compression at the right was about the same as HDNet (minimal but measurable), but at the left there was somewhat more (borderline annoying).


I'm not discerning enough visually to offer an opinion on the merits of the DVB318, but some respected professionals on this and other forums are pretty impressed with it. "Michael TLV" on Home Theater Spot, however, recommended that the component output be used, since he found "white crush" and some other problems on the DVI output. I would add a recommendation not to engage "autostart" in the setup menu (it skips past FBI warnings, mandatory previews, and the opening menu) because it repeatedly locked up my player with the Avia disc, and when this happens you have to unplug the unit for a short period to get it operating again.


The most dramatic improvement I've made recently with the F38310 was decreasing my viewing distance from the SMPTE-recommended 60" (1.57 X diagonal - 30 degree width of view) to the THX-recommended 50" (1.33 X diagonal - 36 degree width).


----------



## UncD2000

Here's a link to a Viewing Distance Calculator
http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html 


Note: the SMPTE recommendation corresponds to the normal human optical cone of vision's optimal radius of about 15 degrees. The extra image width that THX recommends is thus about 3 degrees beyond this on each side, but it results in a "more immersive experience" which is quite satisfying (at least until the novelty wears off).


----------



## MF70




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by hothandiman_
> *Thanks for the reply! MF70
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am assuming you are using Powerstrip? If so what settings? I just ordered "the purple dongle" from ATI. I understand that it comes with software to make it work. I wonder if this is its own custom resolution software?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thnaks Again*



Hi again! I don't use Powerstrip because it is not needed with the ATI HD dongle. However, only 2 resolutions are available: 480p and 1080i. Since these are compatible with the F38210, I never bothered with Poswerstrip. The dongle I got from ATI did not come with any software because it is supported by the driver. The dongle is recognized by the driver and it is automatically activated. Perhaps the dongle for your Radeon 9800 includes additional software but I do not know that. Again, good luck to you and let me know how it works out for you.


----------



## elspankdog




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by locomo_
> *elspankdog,
> 
> I wonder how many times I've asked (to no one in particular)
> 
> Did you ever have the "cap fix"?
> 
> It's usually the number one question.*



No, I've never had any work done on the set. To be honest, I don't use the set that much anymore since I moved it to the bedroom. It has been a while since I read about all the F38310 problems, and I just wanted to be able to help the repair guy as much as I could. Thanks for the input.


----------



## tpgaffney

See if this helps:


F38310 and Powerstrip:

http://www.entechtaiwan.net/forums/v...8e91cf1b34bfa3 

http://www.entechtaiwan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=986


----------



## hothandiman




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tpgaffney_
> *See if this helps:
> 
> 
> F38310 and Powerstrip:
> 
> http://www.entechtaiwan.net/forums/v...8e91cf1b34bfa3
> 
> http://www.entechtaiwan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=986 *



Thanks tp, but alas I tried those settings. I am guessing the reason it did not work for me is that we were using different brands of transcoders. That could be the reason, right? I do not know if anyone has calculated the mathematical possibilities of ps settings, but boy, I know I approached something close to that number!











I was only able to get 640 x 480 "stable" on my screen. Other attempts either did not work, or resulted in a scrolling desk top, or just the "dell" desk top--no icons or anything. I ordered the purple dongle from ATI; I understand that that you get 640 x 480 and 1920 x 1080i (only) with this device. If that works, I'll be happy. Lower res for the icons, and 1080i for video/graphics. I must admit when I approached this project, I never really thought that the monitor would be much of an issue. In doing my homework here, it seems like it is almost a rite of passage to figure this out!










Anyway, thanks for the help to everyone. This is an awesome site!


----------



## radicon

UncD2000


I checked out what you previously stated about component video locking into full on my own unit. When watching a SD signal thru antenna A, the menu says 4:3. When watching a HD signal thru antenna A, the menu says 16:9 and looks great with no compression. When inputing a 480i signal thru the component video inputs, the menu says 4:3 and one can use the stretch modes as usual. When inputing a 480p signal thru the component video inputs, the menu does not say anything as to the mode you are in. I am guessing this is what you are referring to as locked into the full position. I would have thought that the menu would have at least told you what mode you are in.


If this be the case as you have referred to, what is the possiblity to someone in this forum creating a hack to the firmware that would allow the component video input to work just like the antenna inputs, putting a 480p signal or greater into the 16:9 mode? There have been other people creating hacks on the various DVD players out there, so maybe it could be done on the F38310. I believe that I have read in other forums about a company adding adding a video out to the F38310. I know that this might cause other issues, but it is just a thought.


----------



## Ratman

Well... IMO, this is finally a plausible theory in regard to "barrel roll"!


Based on Unc2000's earlier post and radicon's observation, I just performed all of the 'tests' on mine and can confirm that that's exactly what heppens!


When watching a DVD set to progressive, no format info.

Switched to interlaced, it displayed 4:3 nomal

Hit the "FF" button, it shows 4:3 Fill or Full.

Back to progressive.... no info.


I can rest easy now! Thanks guys, good work!


radicon:

No hacks for the F38310 that I am aware. As for the video output mod, check www.169time.com for info (it is a llitlle expensive IMO).


Ah!!! One more thought!!!!


If anyone following these posts with an F38310 and an upscaling DVD players... (that works over component)


Could you output a 1080i signal via component cables and see if the "INFO" menus show 16:9, nothing... or whatever?

Also... try the same with an STB set to output 480p...


I'm curious...


----------



## reybie

My F38310 went to the shop for the second time since I first got in on floor display. The first time was the DM module, the second time a burnt electronics smell came from the inside. Something in the power supply, don't know exactly what they replaced (I didn't get any summary on what was fixed).


----------



## radicon

UncD2000


Do you have any other observations using the Zenith DVB318 DVD player on the F38310? How does the PQ compare to your other DVd players? Did you have to turn down the contrast and tint as others have stated on their HDTV's?


----------



## radicon

Does anyone here on this thread know of anyone that has the tools and knowlege on working with embedded firmware? I have talked with the person that did my ISF calibration. He knows of several people that do this, but they do not have this HDTV. Also, they would not be cheap.


Another approach would be to get in touch with someone at Thompson that is actually familiar with this HDTV and see if our firmware hack idea stated above is even remotely possible. Anyone with an idea or suggestion?


----------



## UncD2000

The DVB318 does run a bit bright. Probably 2 clicks on black level(brightness) below my Sony SAT-HD300. (These 2 units are connected to component via the switcher in a Yamaha receiver). Usually, when I engage the component input, there is no indication of the mode in the display, but occasionally it will display "4:3 Full". All input signals have been 1080i. I believe it's in Full mode all the time, so I can't account for this anomaly in the display. I'll try inputting 480P tomorrow, and see if anything is displayed.


The DVB318 looks impressive with good quality DVDs upconverted to 1080i, but a recent set from the public library (Homicide, Life on the Street - Season 1 & 2) looked awful, so I gave it a try on my 5-yr-old Toshiba SD-3109 (a 480i model connected to S-video). Looked better and also enabled "4:3 Normal" for OAR viewing. HLOTS didn't fare well with the mandatory Full mode via component.


I agree that we could really use some input from someone at Thomson. With my overscan at the minimum on all inputs, I can detect some edge compression on everything, but it varies from barely noticeable in 16:9 mode to pretty obvious from the NTSC tuner. The D* SD channels fall about halfway between these extremes. Another anomaly that we need help with is the 50% vertical overstretch in Fill mode (which oddly doesn't occur with the DirecTV tuner).


----------



## tommylotto




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *
> 
> If anyone following these posts with an F38310 and an upscaling DVD players... (that works over component)
> 
> Could you output a 1080i signal via component cables and see if the "INFO" menus show 16:9, nothing... or whatever?*



I have the Momitsu outputing 1080i. Info shows nothing.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *
> 
> Also... try the same with an STB set to output 480p...
> 
> 
> I'm curious...*



I set the HDTivo to 480p. Info shows nothing.


I'm not sure what this proves though. All formats except 480i are locked and the aspect ratio cannot be changed. We knew that. How does this explain the barrel roll??? (Which I see with both 480i and 480p, but not 1080i)


----------



## Ratman

I was hoping that a device outputting a native 16:9 would be detected as such and perhaps cause the component inputs to 'react' differently. (to reinforce the reason why 1080i doesn't exhibit the barrel roll effect).


I was hoping that the component inputs would work similarly to the tuner when detecting a 16:9 format (showing 16:9 in the info banner).


Thanks for your efforts!


----------



## tommylotto

I finally got into the service menu and reduced the overscan as much as possible. I have not detected any barrel roll effect from either my DVD player at 1080i or my HD Tivo at 1080i. Both look real good. However, the changes that I made in the service menu on the component input seem to have changed the S-Video input where I have my laptop/music server connected. I thought all the inputs were adjusted independently.


----------



## Ratman

That's the way I understand it to work... and what I've observed with my endevours.


Have you tried moving to the other S-Video input and see if there's a difference?


Have the mods you made affected other inputs (antenna, analog/digital, satellite)?


----------



## DrJoe

I've posted my thoughts on this topic on another thread, but I'll reitterate and expand with a few more observations:


1) I'm fairly sure that the reason the info screen says it is 16x9 or 4x3 from the ATSC tuner and Satellite tuners is because this information is provided in the header information piggybacked on the signal (question: does the info bar say what format the video is in for NSTC?). I don't think there are seperate 16x9 viewing modes for Sat/ATSC/component. Because component video is analog, it doesn't have this header information, and so the info screen doesn't tell you. I asked a TV station engineer, and he agreed he thinks the format information is coming from the recveiver.


2) There may be a difference in video over the component because of the way the set "translates" the video to broadband RGB. Basically, the set has to convert the ATSC/DirecTV/component video to seperate signals for each of the three electron guns. Perhaps the translation algorithm isn't as good for component video as for ATSC/DirecTV HD. I don't think that this is the real problem, though. I think, that you do see barrel roll on all HD -- just not as much. I think the real problem lies next:


3) Under "geometry alignment" in the service manual, it says "the geometry alignments on this chasis are very critical and must be performed using chippercheck. Even though some of the geometry alignments are available through the front panel service menu, adjustment is not recommended. Alignment in one modewill interact and affect the displays of other modes."


I believe they are referring to the deflection modes, which are 1080i, 480p, and 540p. (note, I think the service manual has a typo here, where it lists the modes 4, 14, and 15 as having 1080, 483, and 483 vertical lines each. I believe that the first and second modes are correct, being 1080i and 480p respectively, while the third mode with the same frequencies as the first should really be 540 vertical lines.


Basically, you set the geometry in mode 4, but use mode 15 for watching s-video (or mode 14 for watching DVD), which leads to different results.


When I had my set ISF calibrated, he optimized the settings for 1080i, then went to each of the other modes and tweaked it to make them more acceptible.


I wonder if this isn't the problem -- if you minimize barrel roll via geometry alignments for 1080i, then they may be exacerbated for 480p -- which is what most DVD players use. If you minimize barrel roll for 480p, then HD would probably be bad.


It would be interesting for someone who has minimized barrel roll for 1080i but has the problem with 480p, to then try upconverting the output to 1080i and seeing if it goes away.



Joe


----------



## radicon

Since I have had my F38310 ISF calibrated and tweaked with ChipperCheck in April, the barrel roll effect has been neglible. DVD viewing at 480p does not drive me nuts like it use to. If I recall correctly, the instructions for ChipperCheck specifically states that you must make the geometry corrections first for the component video inputs then the other inputs.


What I need to do now is purchase the Zenith DVB318 upconverting DVD player and see how it looks at 1080i on my tweaked F38310.


I will try to get in contact with the person who did my ISF calibration and see if he has time to comment on this thread.


DrJoe and Ratman. THANKS to both of you for all of your obvservations and assistance on the F38310 on this and the various other forums.


Rodney


----------



## jwheeler

I am in Plano and I would be interested in your ISF guy's info Radicon. Did you see an appreciable increase in PQ after he was finished?


----------



## DrJoe

If nothing else you should talk to "Cheezmo", Steve Martin (not the actor) who is based out of Plano. I talked to him when I was living in Austin; I ended up getting a calibration by Siegfried Riedel out of Bjorn's in San Antonio. Steve has a very good rep.


Steve Martin's ISF Page: http://www.smartcalibration.com/ 

Siegfried Riedel's ISF Page: http://www.isfcalibration.com/ 



Joe


----------



## jwheeler

Cool. Thanks DrJoe


----------



## radicon

jwheeler


His name is Topp Robertson out of Grapevine. Check out his website at http://www.idigscience.com.


----------



## radicon

jwheeler


The PQ is much better, mainly the geometry. With ChipperCheck, Topp was able to reduce the 'barrel roll' effect to a manageable level. As I have stated before, no one ever mentioned this except for me. It drove me nuts trying to watch a DVD through a fish eye lense (so to speak). HDTV over OTA was great. I just could not figure out why there was so much difference. Having the unit calibrated made all the difference.


As well as geometry, the grayscale was off on all inputs. Topp was able to get the grayscale to almost a perfect flat 6500k line at all IRE from 10 IRE to 100IRE. As far as I am concerned, the PQ on my unit is looking the best it ever has. Now to get that Zenith DVB318 DVD player!!


----------



## jwheeler

I havent done any reading about this DVB318. What is so great about it and how does it compare with the other units such as the momitsu or others that do this up convert thing?


----------



## radicon

There is a huge thread on this DVD player. It is currently 156 pages and growing! Check it out at:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3&pagenumber=1 


Or you can check out the FAQ thread at:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=400480 


it appears to be a good DVD player for the F38310. The only F38310 person to date that is using one is UncD2000 that has made several posts about the 318 on this thread.


----------



## oppie

I've never had any problem in the years I have owned the F38310.


----------



## radicon

After several months of debating and considering the WAF, I upgraded my digital cable box to a HDTV / DVR cable box. The new cable box hooks ups through the component video inputs so I am using my Onkyo NR900 receiver to do the component video switching between the HDTV cable and DVD player.


After watching for several days, IMHO, the PQ on the HDTV on the component video and the HDTV on OTA from antenna A looks identical. I know that there is some edge compression with a 1080i signal on the component video inputs from the ISF calibration done on my unit a couple of months ago, but I have not been able to see it. HDTV on the component video inputs simply looks great!


Now to the problem! The F38310 does not synch up properly when switching the signal input on the component video inputs from 1080i-to-480p-to-1080i. The F38310 had no problems switching from 1080i(HDTV channel on cable) to 480p(DVD player). The F38310 would go blank for a split second, you could hear the click as the tv re-synched, and then the 480p video signal appeared correctly. When switching from 480p(DVD player) to 1080i(HDTV channel on cable), the F38310 video signal was out of synch with mulitcolored swiggly lines. The F38310 would then go blank of a split second, you could hear the click as the tv tryed to re-snch but the video signal would stay the same. IF you left the F38310 alone, after 2 to 3 minutes the video would go blank, click as it re-synch and the video would return correctly. OR if after you switched back to 1080i(HDTV channel on cable) you immediately changed the cable channel to a SD channel, the F38310 would properly re-synch. Then you could change the channel back to a HDTV channel with no problems. Switching from 480i(SD channel on cable) to 480p(DVD player) back to 480i(SD channel on cable) caused no synching problems at all.


I first thought that it may be a problem with the receiver since it was doing the actual component video input switching. I talked with Onkyo/ Integra customer support. They told me that the NR900 receiver does not do any processing of the component video inputs, it just switches the inputs and passed the signal through. They said that the problem had to be with the F38310 itself. They had seen these same synching problems with the plazma tvs that Integra built. They said that some HDTV's have an auto-synch button. You could use that to correct the synch problem, but the F38310 does not have this as a button or menu option that I am aware of.


Recap;


480i-to-480p-to-480i no problems

1080i-to-480p no problems

480p-to-1080i will not synch


DrJoe or Ratman, do you guys have any suggestions. With these upscaling DVD players coming to the market and HDTV DVD players coming someday, this 1080i re-synching might become an issue.


----------



## DrJoe

I had similar problems switching between the component input 480p and ATSC on the antenna...


Check out:

Old Home Theaterspot thread 

Second Home Theaterspot thread 


Basically, I had problems when switching from 480p or 1080i on the component input to an ATSC channel on the antenna. The video inputs locked.


I never had problems switching between 1080i (HD cable), 480p (DVD) and 480i (DVD, DVD2). I used (use) a manual switch, JVC JX-S111 Component Video Switch. I am no longer using HD cable, and don't have an antenna up for OTA. (And I don't have a functional set at this time.)


As you say, the screen goes squiggly and then resynchs.


Do you have any other switch you can try, to make sure there isn't something in the receiver? If you have an old composite video switch, (left/right audio + video), try it. Maybe it is the cables?


If worst comes to worst, you can call RCA, and ask the to diagnose the problem for you over the phone.


Joe


----------



## UncD2000

I doubt it is the receiver. I get the same multicolored lines with my Yamaha receiver switching between two 1080i sources (Zenith DVB318 & Sony SAT-HD300), or connecting them manually to component. There is no "click," but in a second or two the F38310 gets things in synch. At one point a couple of years ago, I had the same receiver switching 480i and a 480P DVD players, and I always got instant synch and no multicolored lines.


I'm not a fan of extended warranties, but I just forked over $325 to CC for another 3 years in consideration of all the problems these sets seem to develop. The F38310 is ideal for my personal use at this point, but if it becomes unrepairable in the next 3 years, it will be nice to have some leverage at CC toward getting an acceptable replacement.


----------



## tommylotto

I get the "sync problem" as well, but only for a few seconds, then every thing is fine. I have the HD Tivo which can change its output from 480i to 1080i. I do this often, because there is no composite output when set to 1080i and I distribute this signal to several other TV's in the front of my house. For normal viewing (SD) I output 480i to all sets. For serious TV watching, I switch to 1080i, but then the other SD sets go black. Every time I switch to 1080i, I get the sync problem, but not when going back to 480i. I get the sync problem when switching to DVD at 1080i as well. I don't really see it as a problem, because it only lasts a few seconds. I would get concerned, however, if it lasted any longer.


----------



## radicon

DrJoe

I tryed to duplicate the problem you were having switching between inputs on the F38310 from 480i to 1080i on OTA antenna B to 480p from component video. I did not have any problems with the unit locking up or not able to re-snyc. The unit worked just fine.


I do not have any other way to manually switch the component video inputs other than the receiver. As UncD2000 stated, I doubt if the receiver it causing the problem. I will try to find a cheap manual switch on Saturday as you suggested. This would verify if the receiver was the problem or not.


I do not believe the cables are a problem either as they are new. My ISF tech just happened to be free the same day I got the HDTV/DVR cable box and he came out and custom made me new component video cables with Beldon 1694A cable and Canare RCA plugs.


I am glad to see that tommylotto has not had any problems switching from 1080i to 1080i. I was concerned that this may be a problem, but thinking about it, the F38310 shouldn't have a problem at all as the signal is still the same. Thanks tommylotto


DrJoe, have you got an update on getting your F38310 repaired?


----------



## jwheeler

I was wondering the same DrJoe...any luck? By the way, what is the Part number of the part you cannot find? Maybe it wouldn't hurt to place a call down the street to my RCA repair center. Ya never know what they might have sitting around. Let me know what you need and I will place a call. Maybe others here could do the same if they have some competent repair shops around them that have dealt with this set. Just a thought...Jeff


----------



## wward




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by oppie_
> *I've never had any problem in the years I have owned the F38310.*



Same here almost 2 1/2 years and still going strong.


----------



## tommylotto

Okay. I have been playing with the service menu adjustments for a while now. They are NOT independent for each input. I believe there is a different set of settings for each resolution -- 1080i, 480i and 480p. My component input is connected to a Zektor component switch, which is connected to HD Tivo, Momitsu and Play Station. I have my laptop/music server connected via S-video. The laptop at 480i has intentional underscan leave a black border. I was afraid of burn in, so I adjusted it to have the desktop match the screen. The changes I made for S-Video 480i were also made on the component input when using 480i. However, the component input has separate setting for 480i and 1080i. I assume it also has separate settings for 480p.


Once I figured this out, I set both 480i and 1080i to the minimum overscan. I then switched back and forth from 480i to 1080i on the HD Tivo. I can confirm that there is less picture (more inherent overscan) with 1080i. I can also confirm that there is still a slight barrel roll effect on 1080i when displayed with minimum overscan, though not as bad as 480i.


----------



## DrJoe

Jeff,


Bob (of Bob Latulippe Electronics) thinks he has identified the problem as the A/V Input board. It is also called the AA/V In Board and the A/V In/Out board (different names in different places in the service manual). He is checking to see if this board is available from RCA (I need to call and find out if he was able to get it). It is a $60 part, #248019. This is the board that the video inputs are connected to on the rear of the set.


I have a line on an "unrepaireable" set for parts -- but the contact there has not called me back to let me know if this board is salvagable.


Earlier in the process, Bob thought it was the "kine driver board" or "kine socket board assembly" (pronounced "kin-ee"); again, different names in different sections of the service manual. This is the board that is unavailable from RCA. It clips directly onto the tube stem and us a $200 part. He thought that a clamping circuit that exists to protect the CRT was blown. However, he was able to "jumper" this output, and the set still is shutting down. Subsequently, he traced it to an IC soldered onto the A/V Input board.


Bob says the picture looks excellent -- but that the set immediately shuts down after turning on.


take care,


Joe


----------



## DrJoe




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tommylotto_
> *Okay. I have been playing with the service menu adjustments for a while now. They are NOT independent for each input. I believe there is a different set of settings for each resolution -- 1080i, 480i and 480p. My component input is connected to a Zektor component switch, which is connected to HD Tivo, Momitsu and Play Station. I have my laptop/music server connected via S-video. The laptop at 480i has intentional underscan leave a black border. I was afraid of burn in, so I adjusted it to have the desktop match the screen. The changes I made for S-Video 480i were also made on the component input when using 480i. However, the component input has separate setting for 480i and 1080i. I assume it also has separate settings for 480p.
> 
> 
> Once I figured this out, I set both 480i and 1080i to the minimum overscan. I then switched back and forth from 480i to 1080i on the HD Tivo. I can confirm that there is less picture (more inherent overscan) with 1080i. I can also confirm that there is still a slight barrel roll effect on 1080i when displayed with minimum overscan, though not as bad as 480i.*



Tommy,


I haven't played with the service menus very much, and it hasn't been clear to me how you set each of the modes. The service manual glosses over this procedure. Can you describe in a step by step manner what you did to adjust each scan rate (video mode)? Do you input a scan rate on the service menu, then make adjustments, then switch to the next? Or does the set autodetect the present video source scan rate, and adjust it? (i.e. Do you tell it which scan rate you want to adjust, or does it default to adjust the existing scan rate present on the video input?)


I think some of the confusion that is existing over the service menu adjustments (and hence barrel roll) has to do with the fact that the picture adjustments (brightness, sharpness, color, black level, etc.) are independent for each video input source (Video 1, 2, 3, Front, Ant A/B, Sat, Component). I think people are assuming that the service menu works the same way.


It seems, though, that the service menu adjustments are NOT tied to the input source at all, but to the scan rate (480i, 480p, 1080i) and are interdependent for the three scan rates. People are mixing these two adjustments up (or are assuming that service menu adjustments act the same as picture adjustments).


I think, once we are all satisfied that we understand what is going on, I'll need to make an update to the FAQ on this subject.


Ciao,


Joe


----------



## tommylotto




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by DrJoe_
> *Tommy,
> 
> 
> I haven't played with the service menus very much, and it hasn't been clear to me how you set each of the modes. The service manual glosses over this procedure. Can you describe in a step by step manner what you did to adjust each scan rate (video mode)? Do you input a scan rate on the service menu, then make adjustments, then switch to the next? Or does the set autodetect the present video source scan rate, and adjust it? (i.e. Do you tell it which scan rate you want to adjust, or does it default to adjust the existing scan rate present on the video input?)
> *



The changes you make automatically adjust the scan rate that you are in when you enter the service menu.


I would enter the service menu while in the component input at 1080i and the various parameters would have one set of values. Then I would re-enter the service menu -- still on the component input, but with 480i, and there was a complete different set of values. I adjusted the numbers for 1080i (while feeding the component input 1080i), then I would re-enter the service menu while feeding the same input 480i to adjust the numbers for 480i. When I switched to S-Video 2, the changes that I had made to 480i on the component input had obviously been made on S-video 2 as well.


Your comments are correct, picture adjustments are input dependent whereas service menu adjustments are scan rate dependent.


----------



## DrJoe

Tommy,


After you adjusted the parameters for 480i, were the parameters for 1080i changed? i.e. was there any cross-talk? As I said earlier, the service manual says that adjusting the service menu parameters for one mode "interacts and affects" the other modes.


thanks,


Joe


----------



## tommylotto

No. Changing the parameters on 1080i did not change 480i and vice versa -- as far as I can tell. There might be a slight interaction, but I did not notice any. When they said interacts and affects other modes they might be referring to how changing 480i on component affects 480i on S-video. This creates a problem for me. I watch my HD Tivo in 480i through component when watching SD programs so that the signal can be retransmitted to my other SD TVs in the front of my house. My laptop music server outputs 480i which is severely under scanned leaving a black border. Adjusting 480i for one, messes up the other dramatically.


Also, do you ever have trouble getting into the service menu? It takes me forever to get in. I press all three buttons simultaneously, but more often than not I turn the set off, switch its out put, or go into the menu. I have to start over and over again, until I finally get into the menu while in the right mode.


----------



## DrJoe

Update on my repair:


It seems the part I need is available through Sears (but not RCA!).


I'm ordering it this afternoon, ahould have it on the 29th.



Joe


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tommylotto_
> *Also, do you ever have trouble getting into the service menu? It takes me forever to get in. I press all three buttons simultaneously, but more often than not I turn the set off, switch its out put, or go into the menu. I have to start over and over again, until I finally get into the menu while in the right mode.*



Don't use the power button... only press the other two simutaneously.


----------



## rttrek

It appears that you guys have figured out a great deal more aout this TV than the last time I checked here. Perhaps you can help me.


What does it take to adjust/reduce the vertical overscan when in zoom mode for 480i input via S-Video? Can it be done via the service menu? Does anyone have a simple walk-through or how-to?


Mine, as did all F38310's, has this set to stretch too much vertically.


----------



## Ratman

That's the way full mode works. You lose some of the top and bottom.

If you adjust while in this mode, you will mess up the 'normal' setting.


I'd suggest that if the 'normal' mode (4:3) is acceptible, don't make adjustments while set to the 'fill/full' mode.


----------



## DrJoe




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by DrJoe_
> *Update on my repair:
> 
> 
> It seems the part I need is available through Sears (but not RCA!).
> 
> 
> I'm ordering it this afternoon, ahould have it on the 29th.
> 
> 
> 
> Joe*



I spoke too soon...


He gave me the wrong part number.


The problem is a surface mount IC on the I/O board. This is the PCB that the s-video jacks are connected to on the back of the set. RCA does not sell it as a part.


The challenge now is to find a replacement board from a dead set (which is hopefully functional), or to solder a new IC to it. This is apparently a challenge because it is a multilayer PCB.


Joe


----------



## rttrek




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *That's the way full mode works. You lose some of the top and bottom.*



I realize that. My problem is that I lose too much. I *should* lose as much on top and bottom as the letterbox bars occupy, but instead I lose significantly more than that. I was under the impression that this is correctable as part of an ISF calibration, without screwing up the picture in normal or fill mode.


My question is: is this adjustable via the service menu, or do you have to open up the set and/or be an ISF-certified pro to do this?


> Quote:
> *If you adjust while in this mode, you will mess up the 'normal' setting.
> 
> I'd suggest that if the 'normal' mode (4:3) is acceptible, don't make adjustments while set to the 'fill/full' mode.*



Can anyone else verify this?


----------



## DrJoe




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rttrek_
> *I realize that. My problem is that I lose too much. I *should* lose as much on top and bottom as the letterbox bars occupy, but instead I lose significantly more than that. I was under the impression that this is correctable as part of an ISF calibration, without screwing up the picture in normal or fill mode.
> 
> 
> My question is: is this adjustable via the service menu, or do you have to open up the set and/or be an ISF-certified pro to do this?
> 
> 
> Can anyone else verify this?*



I'm not sure that anyone can fix it. I had my set ISF calibrated, by a tech with access to a chippercheck, and I still think the zoom mode for the F38310 sucks. If your 480i is for DVD, then I'd advise you to get a player that can zoom letterboxed video for you. If it is for something else, I don't have any suggestions.


Joe


----------



## Ratman

All I can suggest is that you connect your DVD player to the input you want to adjust.


Run Avia or VE and display the pattern for overscan.


Use the service mode in the F38310 and use the Horz/vert size/width/position to adjust to where you prefer. Be careful and write down the setting prior to changing anything.


Or... maybe the 'letterboxing' of your DVD player is not the best. (Not a bash... just a thought)


----------



## rttrek

It is *not* for DVD - I have a Panny RP91 that does everything one could wish.










My problem is with LB content from my DirecTiVo, programs that are broadcast letterboxed such as West Wing.


Ratman, will adjusting the "vert size" in full mode change it in normal and fill?


Anyone have a pointer to details on entering service mode, and on how to adjust "vert size"?


----------



## Ratman

I know that...

but to properly determine overscan settings, you need to use the Avia or VE DVD for calibration. So hooking the DVD will possibly give you the best assessment.


Your other option is 'eyeballing'.


I can't address what will happen with 'fill/full' mode adjustments. I adjusted my set all in a 'normal' mode. I rarely use the fill/full modes and am happy with what I have.


As for entering service modes and some adjustments... check out DrJoe FAQ's for F38310.


----------



## tommylotto




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rttrek_
> *My problem is with LB content from my DirecTiVo, programs that are broadcast letterboxed such as West Wing.*



The solution to this problem is obvious: HD Tivo


----------



## rttrek

Just got one. Today! Going in another room though.


Got another on order for the F38310.


----------



## UncD2000

rttrek, I have been wondering for over 3 years if there is any way to fix the vertical overstretch in Fill mode. I think it stretches about 50% compared to the correct 33%. My DVD player and SAT-HD300 can handle their part, but if I want to watch a videotape of letterboxed widescreen material, the F38310 Fill mode would be my choice if it would function properly. If anyone has had any luck correcting this defect, please post and Dr. Joe can add it to the FAQ.


----------



## rttrek

I hadn't thought about this before, but if the HD DTiVo properly handles this then I will no longer need it fixed. I won't use the SD DTiVo, and I will also disable the DTV service for the internal DTC-100. The only time it'll catch me is for SD material received OTA by the DTC-100, which I'll only use if both my DTiVo tuners are busy and I want to watch a third OTA channel, and that channel's program is letterboxed.


Well, unless I transfer something from my front room via composite, but that's very rare.


----------



## aviators99

My parents have the F38310 and the speakers stopped working. We bought the extended warranty, but Circuit City can't fix it. Their only offer is to give us our money back ($1899). I'm not sure what we'd do with that money because there aren't any TVs that are anywhere near as good for that price. I don't want a smaller TV, because their wall unit was built for the F38310. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## jwheeler

Buy a receiver and speakers and output all your audio via the optical into that. Far superior to the TV speakers as well. My audio through the TV speakers had been screwed up almost ever since I bought this unit. For some reason one channel is gone via the speakers as well as over the analog outputs of the set. The optical digital out put is just fine though. I have wanted to get it fixed but my local RCA shop has to pick up the set. It's just not worth it if they drop it. I would never use the sets speakers any way. Just a thought...


----------



## Ratman

Did you try hooking a pair external speakers to the set (connection on the back)? I believe there is a switch there also (as well as a setting in the user menus). Worth a shot if they don't have an audio receiver.


----------



## UncD2000

Good suggestion. Like most of us, I just use the optical output, and had forgotten about those external speaker terminals. Had to check to refresh my memory.


----------



## DrJoe

If you took the CC offer, you could probably buy a replacement unit for under $1000 with shipping on Ebay. Do an "Advanced search" for completed items to get a feel for replacement costs. There are two up for auction now. It likely wouldn't have a warranty, though.


I wouldn't be surprised if audio is completely dead on the set (external speakers and digital audio -- as CC says it is "unrepairable", I would be surprised if it is as simple as an internal speaker problem. Something has to be wrong with the audio processor.


If you are able to get one of the other audio outputs working, you might want to try to settle for a reduced refund -- and then see if a local independent repair shop can fix the problem for that amount. It may be that they would be willing to attempt some surface mount chip replacements that CC might call "unrepairable".




Joe


----------



## elspankdog




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by aviators99_
> *My parents have the F38310 and the speakers stopped working. We bought the extended warranty, but Circuit City can't fix it...*



What does it take for CC to say they can't fix the set and give you credit? Now that my F38310 is in the bedroom, we hardly use it. It would be nice to just get a credit that I could use for a new audio receiver, and replace the F38310 with a smaller display with DVI. Maybe I could simply bribe the repair guy when he comes out next Tuesday.


----------



## rttrek

Easy - have aviators take the money and buy *your* set!


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


Do you know of any way to do a convergence on the F38310? I understand that direct view tv's usually do not need this as rptv's do. My F38310 looks great when you input the cross hatch grid from the test menu, but the edges could be tweaked just a little. My ISF calibrater has only found info to do a manual convergence from the back of the tube itself. The convergence tab in ChipperCheck was not available for the 306 chassis.


----------



## DrJoe

Sorry, radicon, I didn't get an email saying new posts were made, so my response is slow...


First, you might read the chipper check instruction manual:
http://www.thomsonnetwork.com/documents/Training.pdf 


Second, you must have already looked at the chapter from the service menu on alignment procedures:
http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf 


That's all I know. Unfortunately I can't remember what was done (if anything) about convergence when I had it ISF'd.




Update on my set:


Well, I bit the bullet and bought the electronics out of a dead F38310 (Lurch's set). I paid WAY too much (including the repair cost, I probably could have bought a working replacement with shipping on Ebay), and have no guarantee that the board I need is working. Supposedly the DM1 Power Supply is dead. He told me that he thought the other parts (the DM1 module, the I/O Board I need, the maine power board, the kine board, etc) were OK. I hope he wasn't bs-ing me -- if he is, I suppose I can contest the credit card charge.


On this subject, Aviators99, see if you can find out which board/component is bad on your set. If it is a different board than I need, maybe I can make a deal to help cut my cost. Maybe you can settle and retain the set -- and pay for the part of of the settlement. Or maybe cc or the servicer would be willing to buy the part off me. Anyone else looking for parts?


Anyways, I should get the parts in a week (UPS Ground, Oakland to Central Maine), and then my servicer will swap the board in and see if it works.


Joe


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


The ChipperCheck manual you are referencing on the Thomson website is not up-to-date. ChipperCheck is currently available only through Sencore even though the website states otherwise. The ISF tech who calibrated my F38310 purchased ChipperCheck just before he came to the house. The manual was much more detailed than what is available on the website. Even though the manual talks about digital convergence, this option was not even available for the 306 chassis through ChipperCheck. The ISF tech has not been able to find any way to do a convergence on the F38310 except through the manual pot adjustments on the back of the tube. He was just wondering if you had found another way to do this. Thanks for the help.


Good luck with the incoming parts for your F38310.


Rodney


----------



## jwheeler

Is there a test pattern that one can display for the purposes of adjusting the pots in the back by the user?


----------



## DrJoe

I knew it is available through sencore (I think I proveded the link to their website in my FAQ); the only instructions for chipper check I know of are on the Thompson site (which is referred to by Sencore). There are schematics and a parts list on the Thompson page, so presumably you could build one yourself and download the software there. There is also a (thompson) technical support number for Chipper Check --800-711-6913.


I figured you had the links but I posted them just in case. The short answer is no, I don't know how to (or if you can) perform digital convergence via chipper check. The convergence function may only be for CRT projectors.


Joe


----------



## DrJoe

I spoke to soon... maybe...


There is an interesting interactive chipper check training module on the sencore site.


Go to http://www.sencore.com/products/chipper.htm and click on the training demo. When you work through the section on alignments to the page on required equipment it says "Digital Convergence" next to "projection TV convergence". It would seem not to apply for our chassis.


However.... On the same page is a service bulletin
http://www.sencore.com/products/chipper/tv02003.pdf 


"chipper check unable to communicate with convergence module


chipper check requires a special adaptor and an additional cable to control convergence in the digital chasis instruments."


You might check the adaptor.


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


Great find. I will let you know how this turns out.



jwheeler


There are some test patterns listed under the 'test menu' (not the service menu), but I am not at home and do not remember if there is a convergence test pattern or not. There are some color test patterns, but not the correct ones to adjust the color and tint properly. That is a shame as one has to make these color adjustments visually on Antenna A and B if you do not have a signal generator.


----------



## DrJoe

I made some changes in the FAQ regarding the scan rate vs video input in the service menu section. Please review them and send me sugestions for improving the entry.

http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf 



Thanks,


Joe


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


Thanks for the update on the FAQ. The info is a great help to all of us.


Here is the response from my ISF tech on digital convergence for the F38310;


*****

"The kit I got from Sencore didn't include the adaptor mentioned in the service bulletin. I believe it was later replaced with the TECI1 adapter, which is the one we used if I remember correctly. It did come with additional cables, but we didn't use those. There were no instructions on where to attach the other cables on your chassis."


"The guy at Sencore who told me there was no digital convergence on this chassis is pretty reliable, I know he checked it out. Assuming he was correct, that would mean that somewhere on one of the boards there will be an array of trim pots that tweak convergence. They should be pretty obvious. Also, if we could get the service manual or a set of schematics for this set, the directions for convergence would be there. Service manuals are usually available either directly from the manufacturer, or from companies that distribute that sort of thing. Keep working that forum, ask if anybody can get the service manual, schematics, or convergence instructions. It has to be there somewhere. Every color CRT ever made has convergence adjustments somewhere. Fixing your convergence will make a bigger impact on picture quality than fixing barrel distortion, in my opinion anyway."


*****


I believe that the service manual that we all have access to (as stated in your FAQ) does not include the convergence info. Where could one get a complete copy of the service manual?


----------



## DrJoe

You can buy it from a number of places -- including the Thompson service website.


I have a copy, and don't believe it says anything about convergence. I'll see if I have time to look it over this weekend.



Joe


----------



## DrJoe

Radicon,


I read over the whole service manual, and did not find anything about a convergence adjustment. All of the geometry adjustments in the manual are in the chapter that has been posted. I also didn't see any obvious adjustable pots on any of the board schematics.


Joe


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


Thanks for checking this out.


----------



## UncD2000

Anyone else miss Captain Nemo/Bionic Manaus/Hob? He has abandoned us after starting this thread almost a year ago.


----------



## Ratman

I believe that he was asked to refrain from posting.


I'm sure opinions vary. He (John) did provide some 'stimualting' debates!

BTW... you forgot (I think he also used) "QBall2".


----------



## elspankdog

Well my F38310 repair saga has begun. Tuesday the guy from CC replaced the capacitors with the new ones (and I made sure they weren't the same ones). All was ok until this morning. When I tried to power it on, it would not power up. I had to do what I did before it was "repaired". That is, unplug it, let it sit, and then power it on. Once on, it lasted about 30 seconds before it froze up in a fury of pixelation. I guess I'll call them out again. The rep I spoke to before said that if I had it repaired three times, I could get a credit for the set.


----------



## Ratman

Did he replace/check the diodes also? They may be shot if the caps went. It's usually a 'cascade' effect if the cap problem isn't caught soon enough.


----------



## elspankdog

All he replaced was the caps. As far as what he checked, I'm unsure. I think he checked to see if the module was loose/seated. Does that sound right? I really should have paid more attention, but I was busy at the time.


----------



## Ratman

Based on my experience, I had the caps replaced when my set died. Two weeks later, the diodes crapped out. On the second visit the tech replaced the caps (that he replaced before) again as well as the two diodes. Been good for a year now.



Seating of the board is not really and issue other than providing stability. All compoments connect to the board with cables/connectors.


Just to be sure.... the old caps were brown and the new ones are blue/silver, right?


----------



## elspankdog

The old caps were blue/light blue while the new ones are blue/gold. The number on the RCA bags for the new ones is 248988, and it says they were made in Japan. The service guy insisted that they were different from the ones originally in the set.


----------



## Ratman

From another forum, there are the RCA parts:

capacitor 248988 x2

diode 243844 x1

diode 245998 x1

_Here's another excerpt:We use the RCA stuff, caps are part# 248988, diodes are #234048.

You will need two of each, the parts retail for about $6.00-$7.00 each from RCA

Generics could be cheaper, but I have never cross-referenced the parts since we always use the originals.

Tell the Sears guy to go ahead and order the parts under warranty, and change C14113/14115 also CR14107 and the one next to it CR14117._


I'm not an expert as to the how the colors relate to the ratings, but it seems that he's on the right track. IMO... just to be safe, on the next service call, I'd have all four components replaced and start 'fresh'. Just to be safe.


Reference:
http://download.ethomson.com/english...SB/TV03002.pdf 

http://download.ethomson.com/english...SB/TV02008.pdf


----------



## rxman

any equivalents that can be purchased at electronics stores?


----------



## Ratman

Yup


----------



## GS kid

I feel for everybody on here. I had the Proscan PS38000 which is the same set as the RCA F38310. Got it Dec. 2001 and it died to the point of no return 6 months later. RCA ate it and I got a store credit. I only really got it cuz of it's huge 38-inch 16:9 screen and fairly cheap price for a tube set this size. It has no DVI, no flat screen, no 720p upconvert for my 720p Xbox games, the sound of fans, slow digital channel change, built-in digital tuner (bad idea repair wise), no wide stretch modes, tiny fixed picture-in-picture, the INFAMOUS "piano roll" effect at the far right-left edges of the screen, and about the worst repair rate in the business. I got the 34-inch Sony 34xbr800 with my store credit. 720p input (very uncommon on CRT sets) for my Xbox games was the #1 reason I was sold on this set. That and the fact it's a Sony. Plus it had all the features the RCA didn't have as I listed above. If you can get the set off your hands with a store credit then go for it as soon as you can!! It's not worth the world of problems this set has been having.


----------



## UncD2000

No service problems so far with my F38310 at 37 months, but I'm keeping my CC extended warranty going. A store credit would be great when the 2005 Sony 40" 1920x1080P LCD panel becomes available! I can't go any smaller because I'm very pleased with the 36-degree picture width recommended by THX. This puts me at 50" from the 38" display (1.33 X 16:9 diagonal). The new Sony 34" models like the 960 sound great, but the 45" viewing distance wouldn't work for me.


----------



## JoeFloyd

My F38310 died an untimely death at 9:01 PM Tuesday July 20th 2004. It will be missed.


After pulling off the back cover I was expecting a problem with the power supply, but in my case is seem that something else is the culprit. Namely CR14710 which I think is one of the high voltage power supply circuits. Without any schematics it's kind of hard to know.


The part is located on the bottom circuit board. Directly in front a heat sink. It's kind of buried so getting a close look is kind of difficult. It appears to have ferrite beads around the leads. Any ideas as to what this part is, what is function might be, and possible diagnostics and repair procedures. Or baring all that, any suggestions on a good local shop that will in house service this beast for less than the cost of new set.


----------



## Ratman

JoeFloyd... check your PM's.


----------



## jones07

What is RCA's position on these Turkeys, have they just walked away ?


Is the RCA F38310 that much different from it's little sister the 36" thats been running daily for 3 years now ?


----------



## radicon

DrJoe,


What is the status of your F38310 repair?


Does the F38310 that you bought to use as repairs have the plastic cover for the front video inputs. Mine has been missing since I purchased it as an open box buy 18+ months ago. If so, PM me the details.

Thanks

Rodney


----------



## DrJoe

I talked to the repair guy yesterday -- he has officially given up. The Board swap either wasn't one-to-one (he said the kine circuit was different so maybe the video I/O board was too) or there was something wrong with it.


My total repair costs (what I owe the servicer plus the parts I bought) came to $550 -- I should have junked it and bought something else.


I guess I'll wait until Christmas and llok at the new sets that are coming out -- prices are falling, and there should be more sets around with internal tuners.



If anyone has an extra Video I/O board, I'd love to try swapping it out. Otherwise parts are for sale. I'd love to recoup the repair costs to put toward a new set. I have 2 good DM1 modules (my original is still OK, the one from the junker may be), one good DM1 power supply, a good picture tube, etc.



Joe


----------



## JoeFloyd

I have good news to report. My 38310 is back in operation. It took a little while about $30 in parts and the $40 service manual, but it seems to be running normally.


I performed the repair myself. Not too difficult from an electronics standpoint. The service manual is the key needed to perform any work on this set. It would have been impossible to do without the information contained on the CD. In particular, the service manual has the schematics and troubleshooting information that's needed to figure out what needs to be replaced. It also has the RCA part numbers that you need when ordering the replacement parts.


The parts were order from
Tritronics 


I don't know what the out of warranty repair bill would have been, but given how much of the TV I had to take apart to get to the high voltage deflection power supply circuit, it's not the typical do it yourself kind of repair.


----------



## cleandmc

I need some assistance. My 38310 is developing that squeeling sound (high piteched sound) off an on. What do I need to tell the repair guy to bring/replace? I have had no work done on the tv since it was bought, and it is a 2002 model tv. Any things I should have the guy replace on top of the work for the squeeling noise? Any part numbers or things to tell the repair guy would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks.


----------



## Ratman

Squealing may be the flyback transformer.

You should have him check that the capacitors on the DM-1 power supply card have been upgraded to the higher rated caps.


If not... ask to have them replaced. They will eventually fail.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...78#post4070578


----------



## DrJoe

I guess I'll post an update here...


My set was determined by RCA to be unrepairable. An IC on the video I/O board is bad. This IC is soldered on both sides of the board, and the servicer would not attempt to replace it. Nor would RCA gave me a credit toward a 56" RPTV HDTV Monitor. It is now in our family room.


After removing the serial number from their system, the old set was abandoned by RCA. The servicer let me have it back (it was taking up room in his garage that he wanted back).


Since then I have found out two things:


1) There is a company, Tri-State Module, that claims it can fix the board, for $280.


2) I may have a local person at the place I work (a semiconductor fab) who can replace the chip for me. I'm going to go this route. some time in the next few weeks, I will pull the board, order the chip, and offer to buy Sharon lunch if she pulls and replaces the chip for me. The chip costs $8.


We shall see what we shall see.



Joe


----------



## jwheeler

The ironic thing DrJoe is that you are the guy who has done so much work for us F38310 owners and you are the one person that has his set fry beyond repair. I certainly hope it works out for you cheaply any your set lives again. Any of us could follow in your foot steps with a similar failure. Please keep us informed.


----------



## DrJoe

Well,


I ordered the chip (two of them, actually -- minimum order was $15). My coworker says she thinks she can replace the chip without any problem. The chip should get here Wed. Then I have to put it the board back into the set and get all the connections right -- that may be the hardest part.


Anyone want to make a prediction?


My guess is that the set is still hosed.











Joe


----------



## Ratman

Well... I have confidence that your coworker is very compentent. +1

I have confidence that you can reconnect the board properly. +2


I hope it works and you have a nice surprise!


The real question is... have you moved those plants?









If not... -3


----------



## DrJoe

Well, like I said, I don't think it was plants, I think it was the movers... But yes, the plants are gone from anywhere near the entertainment center... Trouble is, I now have a 56" RPTV set where the F38310 used to be. I don't have a clue what I will do with it if it does work again. It is too large for our bedroom, and it gets cold in the garage in the winter.


Joe


----------



## elspankdog

Well, they picked my set up today for the second CC service call. I've had the caps replaced before, but this time CC dumped the repair on a local outfit. They said they've worked on about 9-10 of the sets and all of the repairs have been a little bit different. My set was locking up all the time in a fury of pixelation. The only way to reset it was to unplug/plug the unit.


----------



## DrJoe

Well, the chip(s) came in -- but the woman who will do the soldering went on vacation for a week.


She did a nice job removing the old chip.


We will see next week what we will see.



Joe


----------



## ken987

Hi all,

Just saw this thread. I have not done an extensive search but I own the sister TV PS38000 supposedly the exact same thing made by Proscan. I bought mine off of a seller on Ebay brand new perhaps 3-4 years ago. I actually don't remember now..I'm getting old. I saw in this thread ways to see the diagnostics. Does anyone know the PS38000 equivalents?


By the way.....I LOVE My HDTV. Wonderful purchase!!! Picture is still amazing.



Thanks.

Ken


----------



## Ratman

I would assume service menu access would be the same as the RCA.

Normally, RCA pastes the service codes on the inside of the back cover.


----------



## DrJoe

Well,


I have the repaired board back from the plant's electronics shop. Solder job looks nice.


We will see tonight if the set lives again.


Hey, Rats --


Do you remember a year or two ago when we were speculating about the diagrams in the service manual that showed DVI inputs on the video board?


Well, this is that video board.


It seems that there are many additional "features" that are possible on this board.


There are empty areas on several parts of the board. One is a second component video input, there's the dvi input, two RGB 15 pin inputs and a couple of USB inputs. It looks like they are missing all of the associated support diodes, capacitors, resistors and IC's. Oh well.


Joe


----------



## Ratman

Man... that would be nice to add the additional inputs... but even _if_ someone were able to figure out what the parts are and installed, I'm sure that the 'firmware' would also need to be modified. How would one be able to select the 'added' outputs?


If someone with the technical 'savvy' could figure out a mod/upgrade kit (169time?), there could be an opportunity that would be of benefit for everyone.


----------



## rttrek

Yes, but what's the market size? How many F38310's are out there?


----------



## DrJoe

I added a link to a pdf with pictures of the video board to my homepage -- I'll leave it up for a few days.


Joe


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rttrek_
> *Yes, but what's the market size? How many F38310's are out there?*



Does it matter?

Have you looked at the price(s) for the IEE1394 mod from 169time?


If there is a capability to add funtionality (input/output) to the F38310, there could be a potential market.


Especially if DVI inputs can be accomodated. Additional outputs would be nice for those looking for DVR capabilities, which most don't use firewire (D-VHS being the exception).


----------



## rttrek




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *Does it matter?
> 
> Have you looked at the price(s) for the IEE1394 mod from 169time?
> *



Yes, once. Gasped, then quickly browsed away! I wonder if those sell at all anymore. When it was new and there were fewer alternatives, perhaps.


----------



## UncD2000

I can't detect any degredation at all with a $17 Philips PH61146 Video Selector connecting 4 devices (Sony SAT-HD300, LG LST-3410A HD DVR, Zenith DVB318 upconverting DVD player, Magnavox 64017 DVD recorder) to the component input of my F38310. This is just a simple mechanical switcher with no remote, but I have it out front where it's easily reached from my (THX optimal) 50" viewing distance.


----------



## DrJoe

No Joy.


Set turns on for about 10 seconds (tunes from the antenna OK), then shuts down.


I think my next move may be to try to replace the kine socket board. The connector/cable between the kine board and the main PC board are different, so I'll have to kluge something to make the connection.



Joe


----------



## Ratman

UncD200,

Understood, but I would be nice for lazy folks to just push the remote.

Also... it would be nice to have DVI and perhaps a video output for recording (for those that have a DVR).


DrJoe,

A man after my own heart! You haven't given up hope yet! Keep at it. After your investments to get this beast repaired, you have nothing to lose. I wish we lived closer so I could join in on the quest!


----------



## jwheeler

where does one purchase said Philips PH61146 Video Selector?


----------



## Ratman

 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...46539?v=glance


----------



## UncD2000

I got the Philips switcher at Menards, a Home Depot type retailer in the Chicagoland area. These are actually audio/video switchers, but work fine for component. They also had an electronic Philips switcher, which I think was about $35, which could be controlled by any universal remote.

I think it would also select the active device, but I wonder how this would work if several were on at once. Will get the model number and post it.


----------



## canue




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *UncD200, DrJoe, A man after my own heart! You haven't given up hope yet! Keep at it. After your investments to get this beast repaired, you have nothing to lose. ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Me too


My 2 year old (open box) JX4 has never needed repairs of any kind, BTW I am viewing my I-8600 with WUGA (1920x1220) on it right now. Getting such tiny print on my 15.4 w/s notebook, the answer for me was to output it to my said JX4(dvd movies, concerts, 'no' cable-tv). I turn on both by rf remote control and boot up at the same time, likewise I turn 'off' AC current/adapter to both by same r/c. Running the JX4 fan 24/365 is a big waste as your cpu fan 'stops' when your finished!


----------



## UncD2000

The Philips PH61153 Automatic Audio/Video Selector ($29.64 at both Menards & Walmart) includes a Ch. 3 output for older TVs. It claims to switch inputs automatically and to be controllable by a universal remote.

In retrospect, I guess I should have given this model a try. Walmart also has an RCA model (VH911) for $17.84 that is a simple mechanical switcher like the Philips PH61146.


canue, I agree about the 24/7 fan. I kill the power to my F38310 a couple of minutes after I turn the set off, just to blow some of the hot air out. No problems with my JX5 after 40 months, but I recently renewed the CC extended warranty because of all the horror stories I read here.


----------



## JoeFloyd

The component that failed a couple months ago has once again given up the ghost. CR14710 is a high voltage diode in the deflection power supply and when it goes, it really goes up in flames.


At this point I need to test the main power supply feeding the high voltage circuit. I think that it might be out of spec. From the schematic, the main power supply outputs 75V DC to the high voltage deflection power supply. A switching transistor takes the 75V DC from the main power supply, switches it at high speed to drive a step up transformer which supplies 1700V to the deflection rectifier bridge of which the CR14710 is a component. Whatever is going on, this part is breaking down at something above it's rated peak inverse voltage of 2KV.


Fun fun fun.


----------



## elspankdog

Well, I just got the word today that my 2 1/2 year old F38310 is unrepairable from the local repair shop. I'm not sure what the final verdict was, but the receptionist said the parts and labor were equal to or more than the set cost me. So now the ball is back in CC's court. I'm guessing I'll get a credit or check. Hopefully a check. I'll definitely be getting something a little lighter.


----------



## subysouth




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by elspankdog_
> *Well, I just got the word today that my 2 1/2 year old F38310 is unrepairable from the local repair shop. I'm not sure what the final verdict was, but the receptionist said the parts and labor were equal to or more than the set cost me. So now the ball is back in CC's court. I'm guessing I'll get a credit or check. Hopefully a check. I'll definitely be getting something a little lighter.*



Its a shame about these sets. RCA was really pushing the CRT size/scan rate envelope on these. The technically better curved screen killed them I think. Everybody likes the flat screens.


ss


----------



## jojo57

Its not to late these are still aviable at www.overstock.com


----------



## jojo57

 http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2....PROD_ID=825051


----------



## jones07

Thanks for the post of the link. But I would not buy one of these turkeys for half the price they are asking.


Had one for 3.5 weeks years back.................. Damn those things are heavy


----------



## crappie69

Mine will be 3 years old in January and it is on over 12 hrs. each day.

I have not had one single problem and eveyone always asks what kind of tv I have since the picture looks so good. Maybe I just got lucky, but this has been the best set I have ever owned. Too bad they quit making them.


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by UncD2000_
> *The Philips PH61153 Automatic Audio/Video Selector ($29.64 at both Menards & Walmart) includes a Ch. 3 output for older TVs. It claims to switch inputs automatically and to be controllable by a universal remote.
> 
> In retrospect, I guess I should have given this model a try. Walmart also has an RCA model (VH911) for $17.84 that is a simple mechanical switcher like the Philips PH61146.*



I took my own advice and tried the PH61153 automatic switcher. Unfortunately, there were two big problems with it. (1) It seems to amplify the color so that my LG LST-3410A suddenly had "red push" and color ghosting. (2) Faint "hum bars" could be seen from the LST-3410A unless the cable input was disconnected (my Comcast Digital Phone/cable line is not grounded to the "ground electrode" of my electric meter per NEC - a problem I need to correct).


The 3 other devices connected to the PH61153 worked just fine, and the automatic switching was a great convenience. I couldn't live with the problems on the LST-3410A however, so I returned the PH61153 and went back to the mechanical switcher. Everything is fine again.


----------



## tommylotto

Last night I had a power outage for most of the night. I woke up when the back up power for my security system started beeping. When I checked my 2 year old F38310. There was some phantom power. The beam was concentrated in the center of the screen. Right out of Poltergeist. I have no idea how long it was like that--- but I'm sure it caused some burn-in. I pulled the plug to stop the damage. When I woke up this morning, it would not power up. I'll be taking it into CC to see if they can fix it. I wisely bought the ESP.


----------



## crappie69

I have all my electronic equipment connected to a Panamax surge protector

for that type of protection. By the way, does anyone know if the signal fed to the component inputs on this tv are upconverted to 1080i?


----------



## DrJoe

No; if you read the service manual alignment chapter closely, you will notice that there are three "native" scan rates for the F38310: 480p, 540p, and 1080i (and, watch out, there is a typo in the service manual where they list the 3 scan rates).


Popular wisdom has it that 480p over the component is "native"; 480i is upconverted to 540p and 1080i is "native". The F38310 does not tune 720p over the component input. There have been reports that you can input 540p directly via the component input using a HTPC. As far as the internal ATSC tuner goes (digital OTA and/or DirecTV HD), 720p is (up)converted to 1080i. It isn't clear to me whether internally tuned 480p is native or upconverted to 540p (there is conflicting information regarding how internally tuned 480p is handled). Internally tuned 480i is upconverted to 540p.


Later,


Joe


----------



## radicon

bump!


----------



## tommylotto

CC fixed mine. It took about a month. They replaced the whole board. Strangely, the usual suspect capacitors look fine. The surge broke something else, but he replaced the entire thing, including the capacitors. While it was down, I bought a 42" ED panny plasma. Now they are both up and running. I must say there are times when the ED looks better -- over 12' viewing distance


----------



## rttrek

Well, I just filed a service call. My tuner no longer receives anything OTA. Not analog or digital.


It receives D* fine, although just channel 100 since I have it's service turned off.


We'll see what GG's service guy says.


----------



## gladysb2

Well I have skimmed through this thread and decided to post, despite what I have read. You all seem thrilled (mostly) with this set despite all the quirks/problems/etc.


I have an opportunity to by one of these sets used (with matching stand) for under $900...hopefully much less if my "or best offer" offer is accepted. Questions:


1. When I go look at the set, what should I be looking for? (generally vague question, I know)


2. I hope to be able to check the odometer while there. How many hours would be "too many" do you suppose?


3. I am hoping this guy bought an extended service contract. If so are they typically transferable?


3a. If there is no transferable service, given the age of the set (three or four years plus, right?) is it possible to still get a tech somewhere to look at it to cover future problems I may have?


4. I have already a SD D*TiVo, how will this work with the set? (Not sure which model I have, but I can check if needed. Hughes maybe?)


4a. can I connect the D*TiVo through the built-in D* tuner input?


5. I intend initially to use this set strictly for OTA HD...will I NEED any additional equipment other than an antenna?


6. How does this set do with PS2 games?


I think that's it for now...hopefully you guys are still out there loving this set enough to help me out! Thanks in advance...


----------



## DrJoe

1. When I go look at the set, what should I be looking for? (generally vague question, I know)


Does it turn on? Does the picture look good? Does it have (or can you bring) an HD source or at least a DVD player with progressive scan so you can see the picture? Ask if he has had the DM1 power supply diodes/caps replaced.


2. I hope to be able to check the odometer while there. How many hours would be "too many" do you suppose?


Don't think it matters. Check the model number -- if it is JX1 or JX2, it is an earlier model possibly prone to more problems.


3. I am hoping this guy bought an extended service contract. If so are they typically transferable?


I wouldn't know. You likely can purchase a warranty of your own through GE Warranties. See my faq for details.


3a. If there is no transferable service, given the age of the set (three or four years plus, right?) is it possible to still get a tech somewhere to look at it to cover future problems I may have?


You might have one look at the DM1 power supply, but I don't think he will be able to do anything more than check if the diodes/caps have been replaced.


4. I have already a SD D*TiVo, how will this work with the set? (Not sure which model I have, but I can check if needed. Hughes maybe?)


It should work like any other video input. The F38310 has one component video input, and 3 a/v s-video inputs. There's also two coaxial antenna inputs. What is the best video output for the TiVo? s-video? Use it.


4a. can I connect the D*TiVo through the built-in D* tuner input?


No. You can hook the built-in D* tuner to your directv dish and use it as a seperate tuner. You may need a new DTV card -- and you should be able to sweet talk DTV into giving you one for free.


5. I intend initially to use this set strictly for OTA HD...will I NEED any additional equipment other than an antenna?


You will need a coaxial cable to attach the antenna to one


6. How does this set do with PS2 games?


Shouldn't be worse than any other TV.


I think that's it for now...hopefully you guys are still out there loving this set enough to help me out! Thanks in advance...


Read the FAQ, link below.



Joe


----------



## gladysb2

DrJoe,

Thanks for the quick reply and in depth FAQ. I have printed it out and will read it over later, before I go and inspect the set.


One more question that I wish I had though of before.


If you had $800-900 to spend on a set and no more for the foreseeable future, would you go and try and find a new HD set (say the HD Sanyo's at WalMart) OR would your preference be to pick up another RCA F38310 , such as this used one? (assuming good working condition, of course)


----------



## DrJoe

That's a call you will have to make. The Sanyos are smaller, nd the tuner is OTA only. They are an existing line and presumably repairable, and will be under the manufacturer's warranty.


The F38310 is much larger, has an HD direcTV receiver, but has a (at best) questionable repairibility record. It is no longer being manufactured, and warranty's are expensive.


I don't know anything about the PQ or reliability of the (presumably Chinese imports) Walmart sells. You might do a search and see what folks say.



Joe


----------



## jwheeler

I would think you may be able to talk him down a bit for the following reasons:


If he has not had the caps and diodes replaced.


This Mpeg 4 thing happening with directv that from what I have read might render the internal directv receiver useless for newer HD in as few as 6 months. Debateable as to what Directv is going to do to help us out with a new receiver whenever that happens.


If its anything other than a JX5 model


Other than that if you can get it for a couple of hundred less I would do it. It has a great picture and is Bigger than any CRT you can buy now.


----------



## Ratman

I'd buy another F38310 in a minute!


Depending on the known issues mentioned above (cap/diode problem) I'd check and use that as leverage to drive the asking price down. Also I agree that JX1 and 2's are shaky, JX3 is better... if it's JX4 or YX5 you're better off.


There's no comparison between the Sanyo HT30744 and the F38310. Although the Sanyo is a 'decent' set... it's doesn't come close in size and PQ (IMO). One note... the internal tuner in the Sanyo also receives unencrypted QAM (digital cable) in addition to 8VSB (OTA).


It's a tough call not seeing the set personally, but assuming all is well and in order, I'd offer $750 and see if he bites.


(If the set's in the Philadelphia region, let me know. I can help check it out... or buy it!







)


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tommylotto_
> *While it was down, I bought a 42" ED panny plasma. Now they are both up and running. I must say there are times when the ED looks better -- over 12' viewing distance*



How do they compare close up? I sit at the THX-optimal 50" from the 38" display. This yields image width of 36 degrees. The viewing distance for a 42" display would be 56". This would probably be my choice if my JX5 becomes unrepairable. The Sony 34" CRTs are nice, but the 45" viewing distance would not work with my recliner. The SED sets will be interesting if they have any models in the 38-42" range.


----------



## tommylotto

The 42" plasma was destined to be mounted above the bar in my den. Therefore, it would never be viewed closer than 10 to 12 feet. At that distance (with both sets fed an HD signal) you cannot tell the difference, in fact the plasma probably looks better. When viewing the plasma at closer distances (such as 56") you can see the screen door effect -- the lines between the pixels, whereas the individual pixels are not as noticeable on the F38310. However, when you get real close, you can see why the plasma can put out a better picture. If you pause a picture on your HDTivo and get real close to the F38310 you can see the individual pixels of the 1280 x 1080 shadow mask, or whatever it is called. However, the ray gun is not as accurate as the mask -- pixels shimmer and change. This is particularly noticeable on edges. On the other hand, on the plasma, the pixels are either bright, dark, red, green, blue or whatever. When the picture is paused, the pixels do not move or change.


I imagine that a 42" HD plasma (even at 1024 x 768) would be hands down better -- but it would cost you $3,000.


P.S. my wife is a big football fan and wanted to watched the super bowl from the den this year. It almost brought a tear to my eye.


----------



## gladysb2




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ratman_
> *...I agree that JX1 and 2's are shaky, JX3 is better... if it's JX4 or YX5 you're better off.*



Forgive my ignorance, and I should not even probably bother to ask, but where will I find these " JX" numbers? Presumably on the back of the set as part of a model number???


----------



## jwheeler

actually as you are looking at the front of the set the number is on the left lower side of the unit.


----------



## Ratman

Or on the back...


----------



## locomo

gladysb2,

Also look for "dirty fingers". With a bright source like a movie with a sky view, or hockey game, look for some smudges that are on the INSIDE of the tube and can't be cleaned. If it has them it's some more bargaining power.

lo


----------



## jones07




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gladysb2_
> *Well I have skimmed through this thread and decided to post, despite what I have read. You all seem thrilled (mostly) with this set despite all the quirks/problems/etc.
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to by one of these sets used (with matching stand) for under $900...hopefully much less if my "or best offer" offer is accepted. Questions:
> *



Well how about an update. Did you buy it ?


----------



## gladysb2

not yet no. Trying to hook up with the seller, but we are on conflicting schedules...and now he is out of town!


Hope to still take a peek when he returns.


BUT, I saw a floor model 34" widescreen (phillips maybe? Don't remember for sure) at local BB for $650 so I may go back for that. There is a small chip in the screen, but I had a hard time locating it while in store. Maybe, just maybe...


----------



## sranger3

Well my F38310 has had the power supply replaced in March 2004. It has been fine ever since until about a month ago. The screen would turn red and then the set would cycle on and off 3 times before shutting done. The local shop came and picked it up and allegedly fixed it. I got it back and within four hours the same thing started happening again. So back to the shop again. I'll update this with the parts they replaced. Anyone else seen this problem? It happens on all inputs so I doubt it is the DM1.


----------



## rttrek




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rttrek_
> *Well, I just filed a service call. My tuner no longer receives anything OTA. Not analog or digital.
> 
> 
> It receives D* fine, although just channel 100 since I have it's service turned off.*



Sorry to take so long to finish this. It took two weeks for a service call on my GG extended warrantee. The service man (who missed his time window) confirmed what I had told them (bad OTA tuner) and said "we'll order the part and call you". I called back over a week later because they hadn't called (of course), and they had the part, but couldn't schedule me until two *more* weeks later because the tech needed an assistant (to remove the back), and the only assistant was booked!


They *finally* came out about 1.5 months after my initial call, and fixed it in 20 minutes.


Thank the powers that be that I had an HDTiVo on this box and wasn't dependent on the OTA tuner!


----------



## Ratman

An assistant to remove the back? That's a crock!


~8 screws and a big hunk of plastic.


I wonder how many they need to screw in a light bulb?


----------



## MinxMeister

Well both of my RCA F38310 JX4s have given up the ghost. And since I don't have any type of warranty on them, I may not have them repaired. That is, unless someone knows of a good TV technician in the Austin, TX area that may make it worthwhile. DrJoe?


To bad too, as one of them probably has less than 200 hours of viewing time on it. Does anyone think they have any value as organ donors?


----------



## DrJoe

I don't know any techs in Austin. I had my set calibrated by Siegfried Reidel of Bjorn's out of San Antonio -- you could call and talk to him. He replaced the tube on my set, but was not trained by RCA. He had to borrow a chipper-check from a friend who worked at an RCA approved warranty shop. He might be able to suggest a person to consult with.


I would love to "borrow" some of the electronics, if you decide not to move forward. I _think_ I've narrowed my set's trouble down to the Kine board or the video board. Either or both would be useful for me to try swapping. If you junk them, I'd like the rest of the electronics too. I can send you a check or paypal for shipping.


Good luck,


Joe


----------



## crappie69

My JX5 series is still going strong. Using it @12-15hrs. each day since Dec. 2001. Maybe just lucky, but this has been the best set I have ever had and I am 55yrs. old so I have had plenty. Too bad they aren't still around as the picture quality is outstanding compared to most else on the market.

I have been looking at other models just in case mine goes out and I can't find anything that has as good a picture other than some of the $5000 and up plasma sets. Got this baby for $1800 with the built in hd tuner and direct tv hd, what a bargain!


----------



## MinxMeister

Joe,


If I decide to not to repair them, what would you be willing to pay for all the electronics in them, or anything else off them for that matter? I prefer to do it in one fell swoop as opposed to piece mealing them out.


Also, thanks for the tip.



Tim


----------



## DrJoe

If you are willing to give me the boards, I'll pay for the shipping.


I'm afraid I can't offer you money for the electronics -- I was burned last year when I did pay for the electronics from a dead set and they turned out to be useless. My wife was not understanding at all. Between trying to have it repaired and the dead electronics I've already spent $600+ dollars on this. Rather than spend more, I'll buy an HD tuner for the HD monitor I replaced the F38310 with. I won't spend much more time on the set -- after it warms up outside (the set is in the back of the garage under a tarp), I'll try to trouble shoot it a little bit more, and then off it will go to the dump. All I would want are a few of the PC boards; they are fairly easy to remove (I can send you pictures). If I am able to fix the problem with your boards, I would certainly send you a thank you gift.


I quite understand if you want money for it, and wish you luck finding a buyer.


Thanks,


Joe


----------



## MinxMeister

Joe,


Let me think about it for awhile. If it's any comfort, you're at the top of the organ donor list.


----------



## DrJoe

One option for you:


I have an email contact of an executive at Thomson. He arranged for me to get a credit on a new RCA HDTV set to "make things right" even though my set was out of warranty. And you have two. He (or his representative) mioght be ab le to help you too. It will likely require that you have the sets evaluated by RCA-approved technicians and determined to be "unrepairible".


Drop me an email if you are interested.


Joe


----------



## Artwood

If anyone out there thinks that 38-inch Widescreen Direct-view is impossible they should read this thread. For all the F38310 owners out there: If someone else produced a 38-inch Direct-view would you buy it? What improvements would a model like that need to have in your opinion?


----------



## tommylotto

4" thick and less than 100 lbs


----------



## crappie69

Ha, ha. That seems to be the speks for a plasma. Would be nice tho.

As the quality improves on the other formats I fear the days of the big screen tube set are history unless they could find a way to reduce the weight and size. I hope mine lasts another 2 or 3 years and then maybe there will be something equal to this set.


----------



## Artwood

The only hope for 38-inch Widescreen Direct-view is if some Chinese company tries it.


----------



## UncD2000

I've been very happy with my JX5 for 4 years, but for its eventual replacement I'll be looking for a lighter, less bulky 38-42" display with 1920 X 1080P resolution. New technologies like SED & SXRD sound promising. And four HDMI/DVI inputs would be nice.


----------



## tommylotto

check this out
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nlwY321...50&I=610DV3750 

I'm sure blacks will not be the same, but WOW


----------



## UncD2000

I'm not a big fan of LCD at this point, even at 1920 X 1080P, but the price, weight, and depth of that model are very impressive.


----------



## Seedy

My YX5 locks up after _+ 2 hrs. Could it be power supply caps?


----------



## Stevenage

I am not sure if this is the right thread for this post but...


I have a big overscan problem with my component inputs. Can I adjust my settingd myself? Can it bee adjusted at all? I can't do it from my player, a Buffalo Link Theater. See some picks here BTL THREAD 


I messed with some of the info I learned on Dr Joe's site, may be a little over my head. And I did create a new problem, I didn't write down V setting to get back in to the service mode.


Steven


----------



## dmedina

Hey everyone. I'm glad to hear you have had such great experiences with the f38310. I'm looking at an Ad on craigslist right now that has an f38310 going for $500. They're only selling it because they're moving.


Do I buy it??


----------



## MF70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmedina* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm glad to hear you have had such great experiences with the f38310. I'm looking at an Ad on craigslist right now that has an f38310 going for $500. They're only selling it because they're moving.
> 
> 
> Do I buy it??



If you don't, I WILL! I bought mine on April 21, 2001, and am very happy with this set. I would like a second one for my family room. Please, if you think you don't want to buy it, give me a chance to get it. Thanks!


----------



## dmedina

Wow I didn't realize you were in Walnut Creek. Well, M70, there is a lot of competition for this TV. The guy emailed me back and told me there was a bunch of people who have appointments to see the TV.


He's out in the Westside, and you can check out the listing right here...


RCA 38" HDTV (wow) on Craigslist 



The seller's a nice guy too


----------



## Nitewatchman

The failure:


Unfortunately, in late April 05, our F38310 failed to power up ... We purchased F38310 new at CC with 5 year extended warranty in late Nov 2001, and we had been enjoying it on average about 12 hours a day with no problems(it made no sense to turn it off except late night and early morning as someone else will usually turn it back on within 15 minutes), nor with any sign of any oncoming "failure"(even the night before) until the late april morning when it would not power up .... And no, there were no storms that night/morning nor do we seem to have problems with A/C current spikes ...


The Service call :


During the service call*, the tech found a bad diode(CR14104 - **) and blown fuse on power supply board for DM-1 module. Having known about the common problem with several caps/diodes on this board and having the related service bulletins in hand at the time of the service call, I was present, and I had the chance to inspect the caps which are often reported to be faulty. Well, even though this set(a JX4) had never been serviced -- It in fact did have the Blue+Gold "to specs" caps at C14113+C14115-- none of them showed any signs of leakage or deformity.


In any event, not having the necessary diode on hand, the Tech decided to take the DM-1 power supply with him and if possible either try to get a new one for RCA, or he said he might also try replacing the diode if necessary. He said he expected to either have a new board from RCA, or replace the diode and and have it back in our set within about 7~10 days or so.


* - Which didn't actually occur until around 3 weeks after the failure, although we called right away+also ended up calling both CC and the local repair shop several times in that period - most of the time, although they always said they would call us back when appropriate, we ended up having to call them back.


** - As stated in Thomson Service Bulletin #TV-03002 for DTV306 chassis - Which concerns shorted or leaky CR14107+CR14117 power supply diodes, when CR14107_CR14117 diodes are shorted or leaky, they also recommend Diode at CR14104 be checked. Note that in this case, the tech checked CR14107+CR14117 and they were fine ... when he was here at least, all he found was bad CR10104(and the blown fuse of course).


Post service call :


Well, after about 2-3 weeks as I recall, having not heard from them, we of course called. From what I could gather, what they(repair shop) seemed to be saying was that they found more problems with the board, and decided that they had to order a new one, which they said they did. They said a quite substantial cost was involved. It may have been this call, or during a later call that they also said the part was on "backorder" ...


Well, a couple weeks later or so, having not heard anything we called for an update .... This time, they did call us back within a day or so, saying the new board would be in from RCA "tomorrow" and that they would be coming out to put it in. Well --- they didn't show up. Upon calling them again the next day, they said they wouldn't accept the board that was sent .. They didn't elaborate as to why, I could only assume it they refused it on the grounds that it was poorly "manufactered."


With seemingly no "concrete" definable details occuring which I was privy to past this point, and, To cut a long story short :


Bye, bye F38310 :


In the end, what happened was, CC decided to honor their warranty coverage by replacing our F38310 with a new set. For various reasons, of the models they carry, we decided upon a Sony KD-34XBR960. So, They delivered a new XBR960 this afternoon, and picked up the F38310.


While I am certianly satisfied with the final "outcome" of this story, and from what I can tell so far I'm sure I'm going to like the XBR, I do feel CC has, has lived up to, their obligations concerning the extended warranty coverage :


I am also sad to see the F38310 go as it was the perfect set(38", internal ATSC receiver, 2 antenna inputs - which we used with seperate antennas aimed at different markets for OTA HD, /etc/etc/etc) for our needs ... XBR960 certianly has excellent PQ+features/etc(and again I think we'll be quite happy with it), but so did 38310 ...


----------



## elspankdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nitewatchman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do feel CC has, has lived up to, their obligations concerning the extended warranty coverage



Sure, if you feel that a 34" set without a built-in D* HD tuner is a "comparable" set. I got CC to just credit me the original amount I paid for the RCA plus the prorated service plan. To each his own, but I think you could have got a D* HD stb out of 'em.


----------



## Nitewatchman

Elspankdog,


I also got a nice $200 stand and a new 5 year extended warranty for the sony out of the deal(Which would have come to ~2500 if I would have had to pay for it, $2499 being what I paid for the F38310), although I had to "haggle" with them for a bit.


As you say, each to his own. In my case the only other set they had which would have been acceptable for an "even trade"(espeically PQ wise, IMO) would have been a 50", ~$7000 Pioneer HD Plasma. I did bring it up, but of course they wouldn't go for that.


IF I would have asked for the $ back, No matter where I would have went, unless I wanted to spend that sort of money(which I don't) there really wouldn't have been any other set I know of that would have worked for me ... But yeah, I wish they still made 38" tubes ....


BTW, I don't use D*. Never used the D* receiver in the internal DTC-100(DM-1) in 38310 Just the internal OTA/OTA DTV/HD receiver. I primarily use OTA/OTA HD+DVD, but use E* SD currently as well. Will be upgrading to E* HD at some point, but not yet.


----------



## elspankdog

Good, I'm glad to hear they gave you a new warranty and the stand. My local CC wanted me to take a smaller, cheaper set and be on my way. I was forced to get corporate involved. Apparently, your CC experience was leaps and bounds better.


----------



## dmedina




> Quote:
> But yeah, I wish they still made 38" tubes ....



Well, maybe RCA doesn't anymore, but I did see a Loewe 38" TV on Clearance at a nearby hi-end Home Theater store. That sucker is unbelievable... and though I've never seen the RCA unit, I can imagine that the two picture tubes are quite similar.


----------



## Nitewatchman

If I recall correctly, I believe the 38" Loewe Anaconda used the exact same tube as F38310, which I think was manufactured by RCA.


I've never seen one, but I believe the Anaconda(Which was a $5K set last time I saw an ad for one a few years ago) is probably a bit better set when it comes to some PQ related issues, even though the tube is the same ...


A month or so ago, I was curious if the Anaconda, or a newer 16x9 set using a 38 tube was available from Loewe's ... What I found was that their U.S. website had info which said they are no longer supplying any sets to the U.S. Market.


I do know RCA shut down a Picture tube plant not too far from me around the same time they discontinued F38310(not that those 2 issues were necessarily "directly" related) ... I'm not sure if that's where the 38" tube was made, but I think I do recall seeing a story in a local paper several years earlier that said either that plant or another one fairly near me was making Widescreen CRTs. When the plant closed(I can't remember if it was in IN or Ohio), there was quite a bit of news about it, as it had been in operation for a long time.


----------



## pabear

Hi:


Don't know if AVSFORUM allows this or not, but I'm looking to sell my F38310 with factory stand. TV is perfect, never needed service. Cosmetically and functionally perfect. It's jut too big for me anymore and I want to downsize. I live in the Seattle area if you're interested.


I subscribe to this thread so I should get notified of your response.


Thanks.


-Mike


----------



## sundowner8

My beloved RCA 38 turned off in the middle of a program a couple of weeks ago. After unplugging for a few minutes, I hit the on button and the button light comes on but no picture, just a relay clicking inside. Does this sound like the capacitor problem outlined earlier in this thread? The local repair people are clueless and want me to spend $800 on a possible repair with no guarantees. I told them to deliver it back to me. I've learned a lot from this thread already but didn't see a similar problem. Thanks


----------



## Ratman

No it doesn't sound like the cap/diode problem. (Based on the symptoms I've experienced).


With that, the TV powers up and the only thing(s) affected are D* and OTA. Component, and other A/V inputs work fine.


You probably have a problem with the main power (supply) board.


----------



## radicon

Knock on wood, my JX5 purchased in December 2001 is still going strong. I have been watching a lot of HDTV with the Motorola 6412 HD DVR for the past year and not many DVD's. The PQ is so much better even when the show is upconverted (IMHO). Blue-ray and HD-DVD still seems to be a taking too long. Is anyone of you using any of the new upconverting DVD players on the beloved F38310? The only upconverting DVD players that I recall that would work through component were the Zenith 318 and the Momitsu. The newer upconverting DVD players work only through DVI. Does anyone have any ideas on how one could get these to work without regulating the F38310 to the scrap heap and buying the "newer" technology?


----------



## Ratman

I tried an LG-3510A... I returned it. No improvement to justify the $$.

Also... don't get all excited about HD/BR DVD. Word has it that it will only work over DVI/HDMI so we F38310 owners are SOL (If that's a fact).


----------



## UncD2000

I have one of the early DVB318's that upconvert via component and I am well pleased with it. I have the 6412 too, and also an LG 3410A DVR, both set to output 1080i to my F38310. This TV does very well with 1080i input.


It looks like we'll have to buy new TV's in order to experience HD DVD's. I'm a bit interested in the Sceptre 37" 1920 x 1080 LCD coming to Costco in August, but we'll have to see how that goes. Latest word on that thread is a possible $199 shipping charge. Pretty incredible for a


----------



## cheezy321

Hey guys, Ive read through this whole thread but cannot seem to find the same problem that I have. About 2 hours ago the TV was working fine. Then we moved the RCA 38 inch TV into another room. It wasnt dropped or beaten on the way to the other room, but now in the other room, the sound works fine, but there is no video. The screen power up, but there are red lines that are horizontal and they move up and down randomly. The sound still comes thru the speakers though. Anyone have any ideas?


This was done thru the coax inputs as well as thru S video inputs and its the same problem.


HELP!


----------



## raneil

I have both a question and an idea. Dose anyone know if the dtc 100 that is built in connect internally with a VGA plug? If so, I believe that " digital connections" has converter connectors from VGA to DVI-D. Or an enterprising individual may try to install a firewire connection from a kit . Like many of you I have been trying to figure how to upgrade my set to the new digital reality .


----------



## Ratman

DVI-D is digital. VGA is analog... no can do. But I do believe there is an 'open' VGA connector on the inside. What it does (can/could do) is beyond me.


There is a firewire upgrade available at www.169time.com But... it is quite costly IMO.


----------



## DrJoe

There is a picture of the video I/O board on my homepage:

http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/video%20card.pdf 


While there are board locations for an additional component output and for RGB and DVI connectors, the supporting electronic components on the board are missing. I don't remember seeing any unused outputs on the DM1 module itself. There are pictures of the DM1 module, and a description of the upgrade Rats mentioned in the FAQ, also on my homepage.


I believe the firewire output has very limited value -- it only works on OTA ATSC television. It allows you to record the ATSC channel (and its sub-channels) to be recorded in a "raw" format. You either need a tuner in your recording devices, or else you need to feed it back directly to the F38310 via the firewire input. There is a seperate device you can purchase which allows you to output DirecTV HD channels. I have in my notes that the upgrade cost $1000 -- I think this is for both the DTV device and the firewire mod. Cheaper to buy an ATSC set-top receiver. These notes are several years old.


Joe


----------



## pabear

Hi:


After over 3 years, my tube won't come on. The green power light on top is on, but I can't get a picture. This was intermittent for a few days. I would unplug it and let it sit for a while (an hour to 1 day or so) and I could get a picture, but now I can't get a picture at all. I plug it in, the green light comes on but the tube won't show a picture. Is there a reset procedure or something? Do I need to call in a technician? Is the tube likely shot?


Thanks.


-Mike


----------



## raneil

Thanks for the input gentlemen.


----------



## DrJoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pabear* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> After over 3 years, my tube won't come on. The green power light on top is on, but I can't get a picture. This was intermittent for a few days. I would unplug it and let it sit for a while (an hour to 1 day or so) and I could get a picture, but now I can't get a picture at all. I plug it in, the green light comes on but the tube won't show a picture. Is there a reset procedure or something? Do I need to call in a technician? Is the tube likely shot?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Mike



Unless you have an extended warranty, take a gun out and shoot it. It isn't the tube, it is the electronics.


Call a technician if you want -- there's a slighjt chance he can fix it -- what do you think, Rats, 30%?


Joe


----------



## Ratman

I agree... probably not the tube.


No picture at all? No menus, no component or A/V inputs either?


I'd find it difficult to send it "out to pasture" without someone taking a look at it.

If it's under an extended warranty, you have nothing to lose. Otherwise... it'll probably cost you at least $100 just for a checkout.


I just hope you have/find a qualified tech that has experience with the F38310.


----------



## pabear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree... probably not the tube.
> 
> 
> No picture at all? No menus, no component or A/V inputs either?
> 
> 
> I'd find it difficult to send it "out to pasture" without someone taking a look at it.
> 
> If it's under an extended warranty, you have nothing to lose. Otherwise... it'll probably cost you at least $100 just for a checkout.
> 
> 
> I just hope you have/find a qualified tech that has experience with the F38310.



Hi:


Yes, no pic at all. I can't get menus, inputs or anything. I agree it probably isnt the tube since it did show a nice pic once a few days ago. You really think I should just throw it away? Is there anyway to dispose of it?


-Mike


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pabear* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to dispose of it?



No extended warranty?

No estimate for diagnosis?


It's a shame... if you were closer, I'd take it off your hands.


----------



## 6foobar9

Hello:


I have a F38310, JX4, purchased about 3 1/2 years ago. Had it serviced under warranty within a couple of months to correct "geometry" issues; I think the capacitors were replaced but never have verified. The unit was ISF calibrated a few months later. Everything has been great.


A week or so ago "horizontal lines" appeared on the screen (retrace?). They are white and vary in number from 8 with standard defintion to 16 with high def material. They are most visible in dark scenes and can be hidden in bright scenes, particuarly HD. The lines also have an "hourglass" starting pattern at the right and left edges. These lines appear on all forms of input; DSS, off air - both SD & HD, component inputs, progressive directly out from the DVD and scaled through a Lumagen to 1080i.


So a few questions.


Is this scenario one of the ones reported with the DM-1-capacitor-diode issue?


Does anyone have a document aiding a DYI effort to replace the capacitors & disodes including parts type/value ?


Does anyone know of a reliable tech in the Portland, OR, area? I can't remember nor find any doc's on the original service call. It appears the a company "Sharper Video" is both a certified RCA service center and ISF certified. Anyone with any experience with them?


Thanks in advance for any help..


Jeff


----------



## Ratman

It doesn't sound like the cap/diode problem.


Sure you're not picking up EMI/RFI?


----------



## pabear




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No extended warranty?
> 
> No estimate for diagnosis?
> 
> 
> It's a shame... if you were closer, I'd take it off your hands.



I have scheduled a service tech to come by next week and check it out. I'll post the relevant info next week.


-MIke


----------



## pabear

The service tech came out yesterday and spent a few hours with the set. He went thru all the service bulletins. He said I had the correct diodes (I recall an old issue with some sets with bad diodes?). He checked voltages on the electronic components. He ended up pulling out all of the electronics and taking it with him. He personally owns one of these sets (and likes it). He said he will swap out the Digital Module and see if mine works in his set. If it is the DM, he said he can get it rebuilt by a large company that does this (I forgot the name).


At any rate, the root problem is not known yet but I should know something by this weekend.


We will see.....


-Mike


----------



## pabear

Well, the service tech said they need to replace the DM (Ditital Module) unit on my F38310. They said a re-built one would be $523+shipping and a new one would be $668+shipping (but they said no new ones are in stock).


That's a pretty expensive repair. I was trying to sell the unit anyway, asking about $600 for it. So, financially there doesn't seem to be much sense in repairing it.


If anyone is interested in a busted F38310 that needs a new DM unit, let me know.


Please act quickly as I need to make a final decision in the next few days.


-Mike


----------



## yojimbo1

I have a 38310 JX5 that is working well. I haven't had any service issues in the 3 1/2 years I have owned it.


I'm thinking that it's time to upgrade to a larger plasma or LCD.


Is anyone willing to hazard a guess as to how much I might be able to sell my 38310 for? I also have the stand that came with the TV.


Thanks


----------



## DyeLooper

Had My RCA 38" Tube almost 3yrs now, "KNOCK ON WOOD". Have conatcted CC to re-new my warranty. And they will let me for 329.99 for 3 more years. Definitely worth it. Specs on this TV are exceptional, Have researched gettting a new HD for the Living room as this one is in the basement, hard to find anything comparable, any ideas of what would be close?


Another Question? How do I determine if my TV is a JX4, JX5 or whatever?


Thanks

DyeLooper


----------



## dlhunt0410

Mine had to be repaired twice this year. But it seems to be working well again.

I got a notice from CC this week informing me that the extended warranty will expire next month. (I've had this 3 years already?!)


I will not be renewing the extended warranty.

If it blows up again I'll either fix it myself or get one of the new HDTVs that are out right now.


Here's to us Mr. largest widescreen CRT HDTV set ever made owner!


----------



## UncD2000

I'm in month #51 with my JX5 (DyeLooper, look around the left side at the bottom and you should find the model ID tag), so I have 21 months left on my 2nd (and final) 3yr extended warranty. The SED sets should be available by then, although they seem to be aiming at 50" primarily, and I don't really want one that large. The new JVC 1920 x 1080P 40" LCD sounds promising, but we'll have to see how it does with black levels.


----------



## DyeLooper

UncD2000, thank for the insight. I checked where you said and I have a F38310 YX5. Everyone else seems to have a JX?. Whats the difference between a JX and a YX? Anyone have a clue?


DyeLooper


----------



## dreamer

Well, after almost 3 years on my floor-model F38310 from CC, I am now having problems.


One day everything was perfect, the next I could barely read text on menus. The program guide from my Dish receiver is really tough to read. The difference is about similar to the difference between a good-quality DVD and a poor quality VHS tape.


I played with all of the video settings after it happened, and lowering the brightness brings some clarity back to text -- at the expense of shadow detail in dark program material. The effect is not tied to any particular input -- component, s-video, and built-in OTA are all similar.


My 3-yr extended CC warranty expires in a month. So I need to call for in-home service (which will cost me a day's wages to sit home and wait around) but I am concerned about how long it might take to fix and renewing the extended warranty. I don't want to put out more money for renewal if the set can't be fixed -- but reading others' experiences, I might not know if it can be fixed until after the option to renew has run out. Especially if the tech jerks me around saying it "looks fine" to him.


Thoughts, anyone ?


----------



## DyeLooper

Buy 1 more year warranty. $150.00 will save you $$$1000.00 easily in the long run.


"Gotta invest money to make money"


----------



## dlhunt0410

It sounds like you are having a problem with the focus.

If so it could be:

1. FBT (Flyback Transformer)

There should be a screen control and a focus control pot located on the side of the FBT.


2. CRT discharge

Sometimes the focus pin on the CRT neck can be zapped with a high voltage coil to help a CRT that is out of focus and cannot be adjusted properly with the focus control on the FBT.


3. Defective CRT - This can only be repaired by replacing the CRT.

This happened to my RCA 32" HDTV (due to a different problem) and CC decided against replacing the CRT.

The TV was field scrapped and they gave me a CC gift card with the full amount I paid for the set plus part of the extended warranty cost.

I used this card to purchase my RCA 38" HDTV.


My advice is to let them repair it under warranty now.

Go ahead and buy the extended warranty if you like.

If they do decide to scrap it you should get most of your money back on a CC gift card.


----------



## dreamer

OK, this may sound strange, but the most expensive scenario would actually be if it needs to be taken to a shop, waits months for parts, but is finally repairable.


I figure a tech is going to have to come out: I lose $300 wages staying home waiting for him.


He decides it needs to go into the shop: I lose another $300 when he has to come back another day with a helper to carry this beast downstairs.


It sits in the repair shop for months waiting for parts that eventually arrive, while I have no bedroom TV.


I lose another $300 wages staying home waiting for delivery after it is repaired.


I pay $150 to renew the extended warranty just so there is no question about it being active during this whole period.


So I could be out over $1,000 and end up with a TV that several other people here have needed to have repaired multiple times.


The best-case is that the tech comes out and can repair it on the spot (lose only $300 wages), or declares it is a part that cannot be obtained (lose $300 but CC gives me full refund of $1600 I paid for it.) Then I put that amount towards a Sceptre 37" LCD or something.


Losing wages while sitting around waiting for service guys is not something I figured into the equation when buying the extended warranty. And the likelihood of it requiring multiple visits makes things much more expensive. I wonder if the warranty providers take this into account -- that people may decide the inconvenience/cost is just not worth even using the in-home warranty coverage ?


Argh !


----------



## Ratman

H-m-m-m... sounds like you've already made a decision!










But... if you're going to forego the F38310 and get a new TV, you may as well take a chance and try to adjust the focus yourself for 'gits and shiggles'.


On the back of the set, I believe there are two access 'holes' for focus adjustment.


----------



## ubulat

i agree. too much hassle for an inferior model.


----------



## dlhunt0410

I agree with Ratman.

If your not going to get the repair guy out, try to make the adjustment yourself.

What do you have to lose?

Well I guess you could lose your life if you run the screwdriver into the wrong place of the chassis.

But that's a worst case scenario!

If you weren't all the way on the left coast I could adjust it for you!


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ubulat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i agree. too much hassle for an inferior model.



There's some helpful info!


Inferior?

Yeah... it has it's "known" problems with the cap/diode problem which is well documented and easily diagnosed/resolved.


Also... anyone that gets three years problem free with a 'floor model' is lucky no matter the brand.


6 posts and an expert on F38310's.


----------



## RandD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ubulat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i agree. too much hassle for an inferior model.



What?????????? You must not own one or have owned one. Its a great TV. Wife just wishs it was bigger. Man I love her!!!!


----------



## dreamer

If CC would just give up right away and refund my money, then my decision would be made. But that's not going to happen -- they obviously will want somebody to come out and confirm there is a problem.


So if I simply give up at this point, I have no money to go buy something else, and I have to dispose of the TV (including carrying it downstairs) myself.


And there's always a (minor) chance that the tech will give me a small window for the appointment so I don't have to miss a whole day of work. At least for that first visit.


I think I am going to absorb the lost wages for the initial tech visit and hope for the best.


Ratman and DlHunt,

If the focus had fallen off over time, I might think it just needed an adjustment. But the failure was pretty dramatic from one day to the next. My first thought was that the CRT had a focusing magnet fall off. In addition to the focus problem, I now also see geometry problems in the lower 1/4 of the screen. Borders on menus and station logos that should be straight are seriously wiggly !


I've been very happy with this TV for all the time I've owned it. Until this happened, it still looked better to me than any affordable plasma or LCD I've seen. But it is a very big, heavy box, and takes up some serious floorspace in my bedroom.


----------



## dlhunt0410

I think your decision to get the tech to make a service call is a good one.

If you change your mind later post a picture of what your the image looks like you are describing.

I used to manage a consumer electronics repair shop.

I've been repairing TVs since 1984.


----------



## mikek

Parameter # Parameter name Value range Notes and Comments

Instrument Parameters:

00 security code for alignment parameters must set to 76 must not advance to these parameters until

value set

01 Error Detection (1st) Value of first detected error

02 Error Detection (2nd) Value of second detected error

03 Error Detection (last) Value of last detected error

04 Horizontal Phase 00 .. 53 Write to HorizontalPhase TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

05 Width Align 00 .. 63 Write to WidthAlign TDA8444 reg, and EEPROM

06 Width 9151 Ref 00 .. 63 Write to Width9151 TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

07 E/W Parabola 00 .. 63 Write to E/WParabola TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

08 E/W Trap 00 .. 07 Write to E/WTrap TDA9151 Reg, and EEPROM

09 E/W Corner 00 .. 63 Write to E/WCorner TDA9151 Reg, and EEPROM

10 Vertical Offset 00 .. 07 Write to VerticalCenter TDA9151 Reg, and EEPROM

11 Vertical Amp Aligned 00 .. 53 Write to VerticalAmp TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

12 Vertical Amp Delta 00 .. 15

13 Vertical Center 00 .. 63 Write to VerticalCenter TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

14 Vertical Movie Mode 00 .. 02 0=Normal; 1=Movie1; 2=Movie2

15 Vertical Slope MSB 00 .. 255 Write to SlopeMSB TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

16 Vertical Slope LSB 00 .. 255 Write to SlopeLSB TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

17 Vertical Start Scan 00 .. 59 Write to STSC TDA9151 reg, and EEPROM

18 Red Cutoff 00 .. 255 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

19 Green Cutoff 00 .. 255 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

20 Blue Cutoff 00 .. 255 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

21 Video Mode Cutoff (Brightness Align) 00 .. 255 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

22 Red Drive 00 .. 127 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

23 Blue Drive 00 .. 127 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

24 Video Mode Light Output 00 .. 117 Write to EEPROM Address depending on the source

25 Text Mode Cutoff (Brightness Align) 00 .. 255 DO NOT USE.

26 Text Mode Light Output 00 .. 107 DO NOT USE

27 AKB Mode 00 .. 01 Note: 00 = Off; 01 = On

28 Red Cutoff (override) 00 .. 255 Update TA1276 register and writes to EEPROM

29 Green Cutoff (override) 00 .. 255 Update TA1276 register and writes to EEPROM

30 Blue Cutoff (override) 00 .. 255 Update TA1276 register and writes to EEPROM

31 Cutoff (override) 00 .. 255 Update TA1276 register and writes to EEPROM

32 Comb D/A (Composite) 00 .. 127

33 FPIP Contrast (Composite) 00 .. 127

34 FPIP Fine Tint (Composite) 00 .. 255

35 FPIP Saturation (Composite) 00 .. 127

36 Comb D/A (SVideo) 00 .. 127

37 FPIP Contrast (SVideo) 00 .. 127

38 FPIP Fine Tint (SVideo) 00 .. 255

39 FPIP Saturation (SVideo) 00 .. 127

40 Digicon Bus Control 00 .. 01 Note:00 = Enables communication between the

convergence micro & the digital convergence

IC.

01 = Disables communication between the

convergence micro & the digital convergence

IC. This allows the ATE to communicate

directly on the Digicon Bus.

41 RGB Output Mode 00 .. 03 0=Normal; 1=Red Only; 2=Green Only; 3=Blue Only


These were copied from the service manual.


-mk


----------



## Ratman

.... or go to www.manitoupark.com/public/f38310.asp


----------



## dreamer

Well, this last week CC sent a tech to look at my set.


On Monday night, we had a lightning and thunder storm here in so-Cal. It knocked out power for about 45 minutes in my area. I had laughed when I called CC for service and they suggested I unplug the set for a few minutes. A few minutes didn't make any difference, but that 45 minute power outage seems to have had an effect.


Tuesday night when I turned on my F38310, it looked oddly better than it had the day before. Not as good as I remember from 3 weeks ago, but better than it had. The geometry problem on menus was completely gone. Text on the F38310's built-in menus was no longer blurry. The S-video feed from my Dish receiver still looked a little fuzzy and the component input from my DVD-player still shows fuzzy text on the DVD's (Minority Report) menus.


But it looked much better. And the CC guy was scheduled for Wednesday morning. I pretty much knew what he was going to say, but I didn't cancel.


He looked at the text on the F38310's menus and said they looked great to him. He fiddled with the focus pots on the back just to humor me. I had to insist he hook up his component test-pattern generator or he wouldn't even have done that. He put up a cross-hatch that looked OK -- sharper than my Toshiba DVD player looked. It made my DVD player look like it had a really bad case of edge-enhancement on white-on-black transitions.


I suggested that maybe there was a problem with how the set was processing the input from S-Vid and component, but he told me if there was any problem there it would just not show anything at all.


In short, I don't think he was very knowledgeable about this set. But it looked better when he left than it did, and the power failure had already made it much better than it looked a week ago.


I still think there is something wrong, but I'll have to wait and see. Time to renew that extended warranty.


----------



## eddieras

hey- any of you guys ever have your f38310 professionally calibrated??


----------



## gb33

Hello all, new here. My F38310, which is nearing the end of it's CC 3 year service plan has been so so as far as problems go. Had my first issue about 8 months after owning, where scenes of bright flashes would cause the screen to "scramble" for a quick second. Supposedly the "DM1" board was replaced, also the complete board that contains the inputs. That occured twice. Then about 4 months ago began the random shut offs, and I just had the tech out again. I told him about this and the fact that the OTA tuner is getting progressively worse, it has never been good, but it is even worse as of late, I NEVER have had a signal over 52 regardles of size type or location of antenna, and I live close to towers, in Indianapolis. So he is now going to replace the DTC-100 and another "main DM1 board". He did look and was shocked to find new upgraded caps (he did it).

So what could be causing the power shut downs? And are these parts I described still available. I would assume at this close to service plan end, they will do everything they can to not refund me towards a new tv. Has anyone ever heard of them (CC) ever doing this ? Antone else also have horrible reception? Also my wacky odometer says it has 25k hours which is mathmatically impossible, as well as errors in 1970 and 1994.


----------



## DyeLooper

Hey,

What is DTV gonna do for us when they come out with MPEG-4? Is there gonna be a compatibility problem? I hear this is coming out soon. Any input?


DyeLooper


----------



## DyeLooper

All,

Would love a ISF calibration, but the $$ is not there right now, anyone got some good internal picture adjustments I could try out.? Picture is very nice and has been, just looking for alittle better if possible. I can try al the different settings, but if someone has them, would be greatly appreciated.


DyeLooper


----------



## UncD2000

HD subscribers who opt for the MPEG4 dish upgrade ($49.99 + $14.99 S&H + tax) will receive the H20 MPEG4/2 STB as a free exchange for all active HD receivers. Since the DTC100 built into our F38310 sets can't be surrendered to them, I am expecting to get the H20 with no tradein. I would get this noted on my account when ordering the upgrade.

This offer should be available in the 12 top DMAs next month.


There is supposed to be a 26-minute instructional film on the new system playing all day tomorrow (Oct. 13) on Ch. 592.


----------



## DyeLooper

UNcD2000-

You the man!!! Thanks for the heads up. Since there will not be an exchange for our unit, will they charge us more, any idea. Also, I need another HD receiver box right now for another tv do I spend 200.00 on a HD box now and then spend the 50.00 +S/H for the MPEG 4 box or what will the new MPEG box cost us if I dont have a trade in, any clues?


DyeLooper


----------



## Dave0604

Hello Gang. My F38310 has bit the dust, conveniently six months after the extended warranty expiration. Apparently my main power board is trashed, and my service tech quoted me $525 for repair. I'm leaning toward moving forward rather than repair. Any advice on disposition of the non-working set? Thanks, Dave


----------



## eddieras

wow - this really makes me nervous- i've had my tv for nearly 3 years now and was not going to renew = until these recent posts. my warranty is up 10/25 and i'm seriously considering reupping-- now the question is how long???

what's the consensus on that??


----------



## UncD2000

I'm in my 53rd month of ownership, so I guess I have 19 more months on my 2nd 3-year EW. Hopefully the SED sets will be viable by then. I am always looking, but haven't really seen anything that much better than the F38310 for my purposes. I like the 1920 x 1080 LCD's that are appearing, but their black levels are unacceptable.


Assuming I get my free H20 MPEG4/2 STB from DirecTV, I'm going to have problems because my 4-input component switcher has been maxed out for a long time. I guess my upconverting DVD player will have to be connected only as needed because it's used the least.


----------



## DyeLooper




> Quote:
> "wow - this really makes me nervous- i've had my tv for nearly 3 years now and was not going to renew = until these recent posts. my warranty is up 10/25 and i'm seriously considering reupping-- now the question is how long???
> 
> what's the consensus on that?? "



CC where I just re-upped my warranty prorates for what you do not use. I got 2 yrs for 229.99, if it goes after 1 year, they will give me back a yrs worth of payment. Wherever you get yours, ask if they prorate after failure what was not used.


DyeLooper


----------



## eddieras

thanks- they replaced the tv _and_ gave you a prorated refund??


----------



## DyeLooper

[/quote]thanks- they replaced the tv and gave you a prorated refund??


> Yes & No
> 
> They will prorate what is not used, I have not had mine replaced, still running strong.
> 
> 
> DyeLooper


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is supposed to be a 26-minute instructional film on the new system playing all day tomorrow (Oct. 13) on Ch. 592.



Unfortunately it appears to be PPV encoded so that only authorized dealers can view it.


----------



## dlhunt0410




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dave0604* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello Gang. My F38310 has bit the dust, conveniently six months after the extended warranty expiration. Apparently my main power board is trashed, and my service tech quoted me $525 for repair. I'm leaning toward moving forward rather than repair. Any advice on disposition of the non-working set? Thanks, Dave



I would list it here or on ebay as a non working HDTV.

Someone who works on TVs (like me) might be interested.

Or someone who owns a F38310 (me again) might be interested in getting it for a parts back up unit.


Since shipping would be costly someone who lives in your general area (not me) would be your target customer.


----------



## gb33

Hey there. Could someone please take a look at my post and questions. 25,000 hours? 1970? Just got a message from CC service saying that RCA "wants" them to send the board in for repair and the teck will be here on the 21st to remove it and send it in. Um, no! It has been almost 2 weeks since he was here last and said he was going to replace tuner and board, now I have to wait 8 more days for him to remove, then be w/o a tv while "RCA" works on it? Plus my service is up on December 3rd. What do you guys think? Has anyone ever heard of CC actually crediting for a lemon TV towards a new?


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gb33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could someone please take a look at my post and questions. 25,000 hours?



The hours are calcualted by the amount of time the set is connected to power, not the amount of time it's actually "on".


So 25,000 hours = 2.85 years


----------



## gb33

Makes sense then about the hours. The other stuff still doesn't as well as the wasy CC is jerkin me around.


----------



## dlhunt0410

Since the fan runs 24x7 the hour meter could be a fan on hour meter!


----------



## gb33

Check the date of my last big post. Guess what, I am still dicking around with CC. Still getting the run-around, told to call 5 different people and places, and NEVER recieving the calls back like they say within 24-48 hours. What a crock!


----------



## DyeLooper

Call Corporate CC or E-mail them?


----------



## radicon

Has anyone considered hooking up an DVDO iScan HD to the RCA F38310? Just wondering if this might be an option for us to be able to use the new hd and blue ray DVD players coming onto the market soon.


----------



## Ratman

A few have use external scalers with the F38310 (old posts) from what I remember, with positive results.


Will one work for HD-DVD or Blu-ray? That depends if the scaler is HDCP compliant and converts HDMI/DVI to component.


----------



## radicon

From what I have been reading on DVDO's website, it does not appear that the Iscan HD, HD+ or their brand new unit the VP30 will convert HDMI/DVI to component. I was hoping maybe someone on this forum with more knowledge of these scalers could elaborate. It does appear that we F38310 owners are out of luck on using the new DVD players coming our way. Guess I will just stay with my Motorola 6412 DVR and watch the premium HD channels for now.


----------



## 6foobar9

I have used a first generation Lumagen processor for two years with my F38310. It's primary use has been processing of 480i DVD signals from an older Cal Audio DVD player to 540p/1080i imput into the F38310 component inputs.


This has worked great. Using the Lumagen I have switched resolutions back and forth and compared the differences. I have found the F38310 will accept 480i, 480p, 540p and 1080i resolutions on it's component inputs. The 540p/1080i looks significantly better than 480p. I think 540p may look slightly better than 1080i but that could be my imagination.


The Lumagen provides a variety of additional options for adjusting picture parameters that also can of use.


Caveat: The founder of Lumagen's daughter and my son went to school together.


----------



## jerat

I have had mine for 3 years and everyrthing is fine, I have one question, I want to hook up a Home thatre 5.1 sacd system to it ,is it possible without HDMI? Thanks I am looking at a Yamaha HTIB.


----------



## UncD2000

There is an optical digital audio output on the back of the set. Your other components (DVD player, HD DVR, etc.) will have their own optical or coaxial digital audio outputs. You must connect each of these individually to your 5.1 receiver. With HDMI all the digital audio would be routed through the TV and you wouldn't have to select the audio source with your receiver's remote. Nice thing about the old system is that you can view one source while listening to the audio from another if you want to.


----------



## jerat

I have had mine for three years and it is working fine, great Tv. Only problem is waiting for our local CBS station to go HD.


----------



## eddieras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice thing about the old system is that you can view one source while listening to the audio from another if you want to.



i'm sure this could be done- but i'm confused as to how to set it up -

i have the F38310

an a/v receiver

and dual tuner hd tivo/ direct tv

i also have a replay tv configured in the set up (never know when two tuners will be busy recording!)


can i watch a feed for one channel (HDNET) while listening to the audio of a second (MSG) ? i want the ny rangers in HD, but rather listen to their announcers...

thanks!


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'm sure this could be done- but i'm confused as to how to set it up -
> 
> i have the F38310
> 
> an a/v receiver
> 
> and dual tuner hd tivo/ direct tv
> 
> i also have a replay tv configured in the set up (never know when two tuners will be busy recording!)
> 
> 
> can i watch a feed for one channel (HDNET) while listening to the audio of a second (MSG) ? i want the ny rangers in HD, but rather listen to their announcers...
> 
> thanks!



If you connect an audio output of each component (TV set, HD Tivo, Replay TV) to an available input on your a/v receiver, you can select any of them and hear its audio through your speaker system, no matter what video source you are watching. You would turn your TV set speaker volume to zero (unless you want to hear 2 different soundtracks at the same time). If you are watching Ch. 79 on either your built-in tuner or the HD Tivo, you could tune the Replay TV to MSG and listen to the audio from there rather than from HDNet.


----------



## zombor

please don't mind me. i'm trying to post a link, so i need to make some generic posts to build topic cred. thanks.


//zombor


----------



## zombor

yeah, same thing


----------



## zombor

yeah, thanks for your patience with this.


----------



## zombor

sorry about all of this.


----------



## zombor

last one, i swear. thanks so much.


----------



## bigbertg

I recently noticed my f38 component video (dvd) input displays very dark. Picture is unviewable. I hooked the rca plugs into normal input and the picture is fine just not progressive. I changed my component video cable and even bought a new dvd player. Same thing. I have 25000 hours on odometer and have no warranty. I did replace the d* tuner under warranty. Has anyone had the same issues? Thanks!!!


----------



## wdcoy

bigbertg,


How is the picture on your f38 for TV form the othe inputs? Are they also dark? I beleive that the all the settings are by input, so you may have "darkened" you adjustments for the component input.


Maybe this will help


Don


----------



## bigbertg

All other inputs look fine. How do I adjust the component input settings? Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Ratman

Set the TV to component input.

Go to "picture settings" in the user menu and crank up the brightness and/or contrast.


----------



## bigbertg

Thanks Ratman.


Tried it and I can see the dvd menu better but it is still too dark to be normal. I called RCA and they had me unplug everything and unplug the power for an hour. No luck. I'm assuming there is something wrong with the component input that a service tech will have to check out. $200 just to get them here. I guess I'll just live with it until it dies and I'll get a better brand and an extended warranty.


----------



## Ratman

Are they 'cranked up' to the max?


If so... then your only option is to adjust via the 'service menus'.


Check this FAQ/archive:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/


----------



## dlhunt0410




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbertg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Ratman.
> 
> 
> Tried it and I can see the dvd menu better but it is still too dark to be normal. I called RCA and they had me unplug everything and unplug the power for an hour. No luck. I'm assuming there is something wrong with the component input that a service tech will have to check out. $200 just to get them here. I guess I'll just live with it until it dies and I'll get a better brand and an extended warranty.




If you can't get it adjusted even after using the service menu you may have a defective component causing the trouble.


I have seen a couple of these TVs for sale here and on ebay for around $200-$250.


Even though they weren't perfect sets you could get one and swap the A/V boards.


----------



## hbkid

I have a RCA F38310 38" HDTV with built in Direct TV (I am using Time Warner cable, not Direct TV). I bought it brand new in 2001. Over the last couple of months it has developed the following glich:


1. The TV can be on for anywhere from 1-2 minutes to about 10 minutes and for no reason what so ever, the sound will cut off, leaving only video. When in this mode, you cannot change the channels, control the volume (there is no volume, but you can't manually turn it up) and the power light on top of the TV is sometimes off, even though the video is on (again, without sound).


2, After a brief stent with video only, the TV cuts itself off for about 10 seconds, then cuts itself back on, working normal (with audio and video).


3. After about 2-5 minutes, it repeats the above action, but instead of powering back on, it actually cuts itself off permanently. I have to then get up and manually turn the TV back on, and for some reason it resets itself back to the factory settings, iwhich includes erasing all the channel memory, etc. (fun stuff)


RCA/Thompson's customer service will not touch it with a ten foot pole. I've done all of their suggestions to no avail. Most of the people I speak with thinks it's the DM1 Module, which costs about $1200.00 to repair...Great.


Does anyone have any suggestions or even heard of this?


----------



## hbkid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkstorer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My JX4 (purchased December 2001, with new DM1 board in June 2002) is still running fine. Odometer must have been reset with new DM1 as it starts in June with 14,500 hours.
> 
> 
> Question, did I have my caps and diodes replaced when the DM1 was replaced? The shop said it was a remanufactured board.



JKSTORER - Why did you have to have your DM1 board replaced? I am having a lot of trouble with my set and I have been told that I need to replace the DM1 Module ($1200 fix)

I have a RCA F38310 38" HDTV with built in Direct TV (I am using Time Warner cable, not Direct TV). I bought it brand new in 2001. Over the last couple of months it has developed the following glich:


1. The TV can be on for anywhere from 1-2 minutes to about 10 minutes and for no reason what so ever, the sound will cut off, leaving only video. When in this mode, you cannot change the channels, control the volume (there is no volume, but you can't manually turn it up) and the power light on top of the TV is sometimes off, even though the video is on (again, without sound).


2, After a brief stent with video only, the TV cuts itself off for about 10 seconds, then cuts itself back on, working normal (with audio and video).


3. After about 2-5 minutes, it repeats the above action, but instead of powering back on, it actually cuts itself off permanently. I have to then get up and manually turn the TV back on, and for some reason it resets itself back to the factory settings, iwhich includes erasing all the channel memory, etc. (fun stuff)


RCA/Thompson's customer service will not touch it with a ten foot pole. I've done all of their suggestions to no avail. Most of the people I speak with thinks it's the DM1 Module, which costs about $1200.00 to repair...Great.


Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jwheeler

Well the Circuit City extended warranty is about to expire next month on my YX5 that I purchased in Dec 02 and I am wondering if it would be worth paying to extend it. I have had the circuit board replaced with the new caps and diodes but it is still the same DM1 module. The sound over the televisions speaker has only worked on one side since shortly after I purchased it but I never used them anyway. Works fine out of the optical output. Never wanted to have it fixed since the local RCA repair shop would have to haul it in and if they drop it or therwise break the set then there is no other sweeter set up for the money.


Do these sets seem to be failing at a certain age?


----------



## Ratman

FWIW... I just extended mine. Purchased Jan '02. Caps and diodes replaced.

What happens, happens. It's worth peace of mind (if you have the $$).


Mine's still great. (crossed fingers).


----------



## gnosys

My YX-5 still going strong. 5 year warranty through CC runs out in 2007. I've finally found a worthy replacement for this set - the Sony SXRD RPTV. The RCA will be going to the bedroom for the next year or so, then probably get replaced through CC.

Love extended warranties!


----------



## PMA

My set has been doing well but it's time to retire it. I just purchased a 45-GD7U Sharp LCD TV to replace it. I had numerous problems with the 38310 when I initially purchased and this is actually the 3rd set overall since the first two had to be fully replaced by Good Guys and RCA respectively. Even this 3rd set had a color purity problem that I could not fully remove with degaussing (lower right hand corner). Didn't notice it too much unless the set was displaying red in that corner and then it would show some purple discoloration there.


By the way, what would this set be worth now? I am going to sell it to my brother who hasn't made the move to HD yet so am curious as to the resale value.


Thanks,


Paul


----------



## jwheeler

Well I just hooked up my new HR10-250 HD Tivo yesterday and have been exploring the world of Tivo and getting use to the new GUI. While watching a show about Great White sharks on Discovery HD channel (lots of blue water shots) I noticed that the bottom left corner of the screen is discolored. When I switch channels on the HR10-250 the screen is grey while in between channels and you can see that the left bottom corner and a little up the left side has sort of a shadow that slightly flickers or pulses. When the scenes of the blue ocean underwater shots come on the screen it looks purple in the corner. What is happening here? I do have a speaker next to the set and I have for 3 years. When I move it there is no change. My A/V receiver is in a cabinet just under the left side, as it has been for 3 years and when I switch it off there is no change. Anyone have any ideas???


----------



## Tarpon65

My F38310 has 30200 hours on it (This seems like a lot of hours). Had it around four years after purchasing it at Circuit City as a returned item. Never had one problem with it, except picking it up and putting it on it's stand. Just now beginning to look for a larger set. Will probably go with a Samsung HLR5078W as this is the biggest size that will fit into my built in entertainment center and I think they have a great picture. Not sure if I will keep the F38310 for the bedroom or try to sell it. Any idea what this set is worth?


After checking a second time for the odometer reading, my reading was correct. There is no way that I could have 30200 hours of use after four years, that's over 20 hours each and every day. I'm good for five to six hours during the week and it may be on all day Saturday and Sunday depending if we are fishing or not. Any known glitches with the odometer?


----------



## DrJoe

The odometer tells you the number of hours the set has been plugged in to the power outlet.


It can be worth $400-800 depending on if you can find a buyer.


Joe


----------



## Tarpon65

Thanks for the info DRJoe


----------



## yojimbo1

My 38310 is still working perfectly, but I'm looking to move up to a 50" plasma.


I live in NYC and am open to offers on my 38310. I have the RCA stand as well.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yojimbo1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I live in NYC and am open to offers on my 38310. I have the RCA stand as well.



$300


----------



## mortgagemangolfe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommylotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> CC fixed mine. It took about a month. They replaced the whole board. Strangely, the usual suspect capacitors look fine. The surge broke something else, but he replaced the entire thing, including the capacitors. While it was down, I bought a 42" ED panny plasma. Now they are both up and running. I must say there are times when the ED looks better -- over 12' viewing distance



I have just experienced the same problem after power surge. Has the set been satisfactory since the repair? I have scheduled repair with Circuit City (my cost) for Thursday, but may not continue if you've had subsequent problems.


----------



## tommylotto

no problems since


----------



## billodom

This may very well be my last post in the Direct View Display forum. My old reliable F38310 has left the building--sold to a gentleman in the area who is putting it in a hunting lodge. I had just renewed the Best Buy service contract in October. It now runs through October 2008. I say "reliable" with a grain of salt, for the old beast had its share of problems. The most severe was back in June 2002 when a power surge took out a couple of circuit boards. Once that was replaced I just had a couple of minor shorts that some soldering on the tech's part cured. The last of my repairs was about a year and a half ago and the set has been great since. I suffered with off-and-on satellite signal problems since D* introduced their HD Package back in the summer of '03 that were eventually traced to an old RG59 cable run. Once the cable was replaced the dropouts and D* reception problems disappeared. That was not before I had the technician--with whom I had struck up a working relationship--replace the DM-1 module, unnecessarily. I was spooked because reading all the owners' posts on replacing their DM-1 modules convinced me that mine was bad. I even had the set ISF'd not long after the last repair--with somewhat mixed results. I had no problem with the calibration and the guy got the gray scale properly adjusted but it really didn't improve the picture that much over what it had been. With a good HD source signal it still looks great. All in all, not bad for an open box special I bought just a couple of weeks after 9/11. Farewell, old friend.









I did want to single out Ratman, Dr. Joe and Captain Nemo in particular who with their posts helped me keep the faith through the years, along with so many other posters here. Thanks.


----------



## jwheeler

Fairwell billodom! You have to tell us though...what did you replace it with?


----------



## billodom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fairwell billodom! You have to tell us though...what did you replace it with?



Samsung 46-INCH (HD3 chip). All digital, baybe!







. 70 pounds versus 215.


----------



## crappie69

Mine has been running since Jan. 2001 without a problem. My wife is home days and it is on for at least 10hrs. each day. This has been the best tv I have ever owned. Too bad they don't make them anymore as the picture is great. I recommended it to several of my friends and they bought one too. They have not had any problem with theirs either.

I hope it lasts another 5yrs. and by that time maybe the smoke will clear and there will be a definite winner between the plasma, dlp, lcd and the new sets just announced at the Las Vegas show. $300 bucks for that RCA was a great deal if it is still working with no problems.


----------



## UncD2000

I've had excellent luck with mine as well for almost 5 years. I recently moved my viewing position a few inches closer to 46" to widen my viewing width from 36 degrees to 40. Unlike the fixed pixel displays, the F38310 stands up very well to close viewing. At 46" I experience the same effective image size as a 100" display at 10 feet. With a recliner this is about as close as you can get. Like you I hope it lasts until something really better (perhaps SED) comes along.


----------



## mortgagemangolfe

Problems with power board; tech has one that he is willing to try--will bring it tomorrow (Friday) to see if it solves the problem. He says he saves parts of some sets that he thinks may solve future problems--certainly entrepreneurial!


I paid the $99 diagnostic fee today. What's a reasonable amount to pay if the board cures the set? If it doesn't, is there hope? No extended warranty in place, and tech says other boards are not available.


Thanks for any input you can offer!


----------



## offsite123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had excellent luck with mine as well for almost 5 years. I recently moved my viewing position a few inches closer to 46" to widen my viewing width from 36 degrees to 40. Unlike the fixed pixel displays, the F38310 stands up very well to close viewing. At 46" I experience the same effective image size as a 100" display at 10 feet. With a recliner this is about as close as you can get. Like you I hope it lasts until something really better (perhaps SED) comes along.



Interestingly enough, when you move up that close, the geometric issues go away (for the most part).... it's sorta like the engineers at RCA designed it to be viewed really close...










PS: I'll be resurrecting mine out of storage in a few months. After living with a Sharp 37" LCD for a year, I'm convinced there's no comparison overall.


Sharp sure looks good for sports though...


----------



## UncD2000

I agree with your comments. Even though I have my overscan adjusted to the minimum, which tends to increase the 'edge compression," it is seldom noticeable to me.


I had a Westy 32" LCD right next to, and even in front of the RCA for about 10 days, and the LCD was amazing on bright and evenly-lighted stuff like sports. It was pretty awful on black levels and shadow detail in dimly-lit scenes. The RCA got a Good rating across the board, whereas the Westy ranged from barely fair to spectacular.


----------



## chrpai

I've read DrJoes F38310 FAQ and tracked down a bunch of threads but I cant get one answer 100% clear:


Does the F38310 accept 540P over the component input?


The reason I ask is that the latest AACS rumors for HD-DVD say that analog will be outputted at a resolution of 960x540P. I assume that means HD-DVD players will output at 540P ( hopefulyl not down it more to 480P)


I'm not happy with this, but consider that the native horizontal resolution of the F38310 is only 1280 not 1920 I guess I could live with it....


----------



## sundowner8

I've had my F38310 since 2001. Early last year it went out while I was watching it. No smoke, no fire, just like I hit the off switch. The local repair guys were clueless, so I purchased a repair manual and took a whack at it. It had a shorted diode in the standby power supply. Fired it up two weeks ago and the same beautiful picture came back on. With the integrated Directv and OTA tuners, it is truly a unique set (especially when you have to move it).


----------



## crappie69

Sounds like the local repair guys need to find another profession. If you need a job, call them up and see if they need a good rca hd teck, hehe.


----------



## clm811

My 38F310's Service Plan purchased through Goodguys(now defunct) is

about to expire.


Anybody (PMA ?) know how to renew the G.E Service Plan since GoodGuys

is now gone?

TIA

-Chas


----------



## fmichael3

This TV would never play a VCR tape clearly. The picture is jumpy and the is a line at the top of the screen. I tried several VCRs and they all produce below acceptable results. Would anyone have a suggestion. Using audio video cables.


----------



## fmichael3

My 3810 cannot playback vcr tapes very well. The picture is jumpy sometimes. I am using audio video cables.


----------



## fmichael3

vcr tapes have always been jumpy.


----------



## Ratman

Try a different video input.


----------



## peterbilt

I think the source of your problem is that video tapes and VCR's blow.


----------



## cbxfer

Hi, newbie here. Is anybody parting out one of these? I just got one and it needs the board that goes in the back of the tube.

Thanks for the help!

Fer.


----------



## etcarey

hello again!


two things for my fellow F38310ers,


first -- no -- i've never had much luck with watching VHS on the big screen either. No amount of changing VHS machines or inputs has helped -- although some tapes play better than others. As someone else has already said -- a lot of this is simply because VHS just blows.


second -- lately, my gently aging set (now in its 5th year) is taking a few minutes to "warm-up" after being turned on. The picture is soft and out of focus for about 4-5 minutes after turn-on. Pictures look hazed and menus are hard to read. After warm up -- it's the same old beautiful set it's always been, but i anticipate this problem accelerating over time. The extended warrantee expires in March 2008 so i have some time just in case it things get critical. Has anyone else noticed this on their sets??


ted carey

nashua NH


----------



## chrpai

No issues with mine warming up. I'd check the odometer in the service menu but my kid is watching Baby Einstein right now.


----------



## yojimbo1

My 38310 is entering it's 5th year of service---no warm-up (or any other) issues yet.


I'm in the process of selling my set because I'm finally getting a 50" plasma.


----------



## rewilliams

I was given a F38310 last week. I was told the crt was bad but I don't think thats the problem. When I turn it on I hear a relay click the high voltage hits around 32kv and the relay clicks again and it turns off. In about 2 or 3 seconds it turns itself back on and this process starts over. I was told it was bought new a few years ago, used a little over a year and it quit. I have been out of the TV business for many years but would like to give this set a new chance at life.

Has anyone run into this problem before? Thanks for any help!


----------



## Mr.Victor

My 5 year old model is starting to emit a high-pitched whine when an HD program is on. It is intermittent , sometimes it happens and sometimes not. Sometimes it goes away after a while and sometimes I have to turn it off. It happens with cable (component input) and OTA inputs. Any ideas?


----------



## Ratman

IT may be a high voltage transformer (flyback?) starting to go.

Try reducing brightness and/or contrast. It may help for awhile.

Just a guess...


----------



## jwheeler

Does anyone have aliasing issues with their set? Im not sure if its me or its getting worse but while viewing some content i get quite a bit of aliasing and some times rainbow effect in images with lines. Thanks for any info...Jeff


----------



## DyeLooper

Is anyone using a external HD DirectTv Receiver with their RCA F38310. I'm wondering if a new MPEG 4 box from DTV will work?


DyeLooper


----------



## jwheeler

Im using the HR10-250 HD Tivo with mine though it is Mpeg 2. As long as you have component out of the Directv box it will work. And set to 1080i.


----------



## DyeLooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im using the HR10-250 HD Tivo with mine though it is Mpeg 2. As long as you have component out of the Directv box it will work. And set to 1080i.




Sounds great, so you have the DTV line coming into the receiver, then out of the receiver via Component to the tv? I dont think MPEG 2 going to 4 will be a problem. Was just wondering if this setup would work around the internal DTV receiver.


DyeLooper


----------



## UncD2000

I have the H20 connected via component through a cheap 4-way RCA switcher. Also have a Moto 6415 cable DVR, an LG LST-3410A DVR, and a Zenith DVB318 upconverting DVD player connected to the same switcher. These 4 devices work very well with the F38310. The H20 has its faults, but it's a big improvement over the built-in DCT-100, especially regarding the program guide.


----------



## peterbilt

AFAIK, _anything_ with component outputs will work...unless it _only_ outputs 720p.


Once I got my HR10-250, I deactivated the tuner in the F38310. It seemed a bit redundant. It's rare that I catch one show live, let alone the three at one time it would take to need the internal tuner as well as the two in the TiVo.


I also use a cheap RCA switcher (HR10-250, XBOX, XBOX 360) and just leave the TV on DVD (component) all the time. I run sound through the stereo so I just put the RCA remote away. It sucked anyway.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds great, so you have the DTV line coming into the receiver, then out of the receiver via Component to the tv? I dont think MPEG 2 going to 4 will be a problem. Was just wondering if this setup would work around the internal DTV receiver.
> 
> 
> DyeLooper



Not sure I'm following you here. The difference between Mpeg2 and 4 has to do with what Direct is sending to your dish and what receiver you have to receive that signal. Mpeg4 is the compression scheme that Directv is moving to for HDTV and is currently only used for you local channels depending upon your market and whether or not it's available yet to you.


Regardless of Mpeg2 or 4 you would need the appropriate dish and receiver to receive the HD signal from Directv. You then just hook up that receiver via component to your F38310 bypassing the internal Directv tuner. I also have an antenna to receive my local channels over the air and that is hooked up to my HR10-250 as well.


I too am using a cheap component switcher. Its a Philips that I purchased at Walmart for$20 and seems to work fine. I have an xbox and dvd player as well as the HR10-250 running through this.


----------



## DyeLooper

Correct, I will be getting the new dish with the boxes. Just wasnt sure about the compatibility of not using the internal receiver. Thanks everyone else for their input. I looked at the back of the tv, did not know that their was only 1 component, will get the switcher also.


Thanks again to everyone


DyeLooper


----------



## N520TX

Hello - new board member here - out of necessity. My JX4 will no longer respond to power on from either the remote or set top buttons. I can hear that fan still whirring so I know there is power. I left it unplugged overnight, then reconnected and still no go. The set is 5 yrs old, floor model from CC. I am in the Austin TX area, and you may have heard the past couple days have seen some *major* tstorm activity with lots of power flickering - so I have a suspicion as to the root cause. I found this forum via a google search and it looks to me like I may not be the first person to have this happen. Any obvious words of advice before I "take it out back and shoot it" ?


Thanks - Ron


----------



## DyeLooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N520TX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello - new board member here - out of necessity. My JX4 will no longer respond to power on from either the remote or set top buttons. I can hear that fan still whirring so I know there is power. I left it unplugged overnight, then reconnected and still no go. The set is 5 yrs old, floor model from CC. I am in the Austin TX area, and you may have heard the past couple days have seen some *major* tstorm activity with lots of power flickering - so I have a suspicion as to the root cause. I found this forum via a google search and it looks to me like I may not be the first person to have this happen. Any obvious words of advice before I "take it out back and shoot it" ?
> 
> 
> Thanks - Ron




Theres someone out there who will buy it for parts, not me though. Tuff Break, sorry.


DyeLooper


----------



## N520TX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Theres someone out there who will buy it for parts



Right now, I'd be happy if it just disappeared from my front hall - I promise I won't call the cops. It *IS* trash day today - was thinking about putting it out there to see if anyone would haul it off for me .... any takers ?


----------



## Ratman

If you are in South Jersey... I'll pick it up.


----------



## jwheeler

I certainly wouldnt trash the thing until you had an RCA tech have a look. Didnt DR Joe live in Austin?






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N520TX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Right now, I'd be happy if it just disappeared from my front hall - I promise I won't call the cops. It *IS* trash day today - was thinking about putting it out there to see if anyone would haul it off for me .... any takers ?


----------



## UncD2000

I am hoping my 5-year-old JX5 lasts until the SED sets are available. Toshiba/Canon had a 36" prototype at CES, but I would like something in the 40-42" range to replace my F38310. If it becomes unrepairable before that, I would probably use my CC extended warranty to trade up to the Sony 50" SXRD.


----------



## DyeLooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am hoping my 5-year-old JX5 lasts until the SED sets are available. Toshiba/Canon had a 36" prototype at CES, but I would like something in the 40-42" range to replace my F38310. If it becomes unrepairable before that, I would probably use my CC extended warranty to trade up to the Sony 50" SXRD.




How did the 36" SED look?


DyeLooper


----------



## UncD2000

I didn't attend CES 2006, but one reporter who was quoted in this forum said that after seeing the SED display the other TV's there all seemed lacking by comparison. It will be

interesting to see if they can sustain this performance level in mass production of the larger displays.


----------



## dude1394

I have just gotten a Motorola digital cable box and I'm trying to program my remotes to control it.


I clear the AUX controls correctly and check that they are cleared. Then when I plug the correct Motorola Cable box code into it, the TV goes back into DirectTV mode. At this time the TV cannot be controlled.


Does anyone know how to either:

- Keep the TV from going into DirectTV mode?

- Possilbly control the Motorola CableBox without using a cablebox control sequence(this seems weird however). Something like a TV control sequence that would also control the cablebox.


????


----------



## dude1394

With respect to the main question of this thread, I've had this model at least 5 years now, got it to watch DVDs only and have been very happy with it.


My only issues have been it's weight and the reflective nature of the tube.


----------



## ferisbueler

Hello. I purchased my F38310 back in Jun02 and it worked great until two days ago. When I press the power button the green light comes on... but no picture. I took the back off to investigate and both fans (one to the tube... one on the bottom right, facing from behind) are trying and failing to move. There is a component in the middle of the board toward the bottom that makes a wind up noise and stops... I've read many things on other sites about bad power supplies and bad dm1 pic tubes. I purchased the TV w/stand for 2k... and I've read that the dm1 costs ~$1350... I thought I'd ask you who know. Thanx in advance!!! --- Bueler.


----------



## jwheeler

Have you ever had the original capacitors and diodes replaced? If not I would call an RCA tech out to do the fix first before worrying about the DM1 module. The cap and diode problem is a pretty straight forward fix and shouldnt cost that much.


----------



## Ratman

The cap/diode problem shouldn't produce the symptoms that are presented in this case.


It sounds more like a power board issue...


----------



## ferisbueler

I've never repaired or replaced anything on the TV... But after reading multiple blogs on the problems that are associated with the model... I don't want to attempt the process... know anyone that is in colorado and wants the beast for parts? Otherwise I'm going to give it to the local repair guy for the pleasure of never having to worry about it again... *g*... Unless you advise that it isn't that bad of a fix... And w/out being here I'm sure that is an implausible guess.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ferisbueler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've never repaired or replaced anything on the TV... But after reading multiple blogs on the problems that are associated with the model... I don't want to attempt the process... know anyone that is in colorado and wants the beast for parts? Otherwise I'm going to give it to the local repair guy for the pleasure of never having to worry about it again... *g*... Unless you advise that it isn't that bad of a fix... And w/out being here I'm sure that is an implausible guess.



Where in CO r ya? I would have a tech have a look and tell you how much it would cost before you just toss it unless you itchin to get something new and bigger and better.


----------



## wdcoy

Dude 1394


I switched to HD cable a few months ago. I used the component inputs to the TV which use to be where my DVD player was plugged into. I relearned the on/off button on my universal remote from the DVD button on the RCA remote. Not sure how you have your cable box hooked to your TV.


Try that, good luck.


Don


----------



## turbocup

ODO reads 32920. Only problem is dark bar (about 2 inches wide) between center and right (not too noticable). Was using built in DirectTV receiver. Now using HD DirectTivo bought from co-worker for $250. Great combo!


When it finally dies I guess I'll be looking at a plasma, LCD, DLP or whatever. In the meantime, the RCA is doing just fine!


----------



## UncD2000

My 5-year old F38310 JX5 has recently started exuding a slightly "sweet" odor when it has been running 1/2-hour or more. This spreads around the house and even causes clothing to pick up this smell. Anyone else run into this? I was wondering if it might be the start of leakage problems with the caps or diodes that have failed on some F38310's. Thanks.


----------



## Ratman

No... but if it starts to exude a "smell" after it's warmed up, then there's probably something starting to fry.


Time to get it checked out.


Did anyone accidentally spill something into the set? Or an angry cat evacuate it's bladder?


----------



## kmullen

Could possibly be a resistor cooking off...smell comes from the Shellac "cooking"..it will

fail at some point, sooner or later.


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did anyone accidentally spill something into the set? Or an angry cat evacuate it's bladder?



Everything looks normal, and actually quite clean when I look in through the vent openings. The odor source is very hard to localize. At one time or another, I have suspected 6 different video or audio components in my system. Yesterday, the problem seemed to stop when I moved my Moto 6412 Comcast DVR into another room. Its diagnostic menu shows an internal temp of 118 which seems a little suspicious since it used to be 108. I think I will request a replacement and see what happens.


----------



## hayt

I bought mine at NOBODY BEATS THE WIZ (remember them? YUCK!) way back in 2002?. It was a thing of beauty then, and still is, mostly. Slightly annoying vertical "ghost" line that scrolls from the bottom to the top, and the semi occaisional hi pitched whine when the screen image is very bright. Other than that, I love it. Gorgeous pq. It even survived me taking the back cover off to replace a fuse, and a voyage from NY to Maine and then to FL!


----------



## mahidarkhak

I have a CRT RCA bought in 1993!!!!! lol


I wanna use it to improve my knowledge of fixing TVs (not as a professional).

Any1 knows how to get SM?


Thank you


----------



## Matt L

Hey, I guess I'll revive this thread. My trusty 38310 is acting up for the first time. I bought it new in Feb of 2001 and it's been great ever since. No service, no new caps. Umm, that is until last night.


I powered it up and found the interactive setup screen for some reason. I canceled it and all was well - I thought. I went to watch Stargate Atlantis and went to switch to 480i mode and the screen was dark, went to 480p same thing. I flipped back to 1080 and all was fine. I shrugged and watched TV for the evening. I tried to turn it off but it would not power down. I tried the power button several times and the remote , no go. Finally pulled the plug.


Since I did that it will not power up. Fans are running, but no power light, no high voltage.


Any suggestions - besides junk it -? I might call Sears where I bought it and see if they offer me a service contract and buy it.


Update: I pulled the back off and the only fan running is in the tuner, the two chassis fans are dead. Both spin freely so I doubt it's a bad bearing.


----------



## masterp2

Mine went dead yesterday. Has sound, and a small pic band in the lower part of the screen which fades withing secs of powerup, to complete blackness with sound. Never smelled anything funny, fan sounds normal. Oh well. 6-7 years of use, very poor.


Odd, had something similar to this happen a couple months ago, 2-3 times, and didn't recur till now, now totally gone.


Any ideas?


----------



## Tarpon65

Well after four plus years as our main tv our 38310 has been moved into the bedroom. I finally broke down and purchased a Samsung HLS5687W. The RCA still has a wonderful picture and has never given me any problems, I simply wanted a larger set. We had to take the bedroom door off and turn the set sideways to get it to fit. I almost forgot how massive this set is. I'm now looking for a stand that will hold the 38310 high enough so we can view it while laying down (approximately 33").


----------



## masterp2

I have one I will gladly sell cheap. In need of repair, repairman says the parts will be cheap cheap. Phoenix pickup only. email [email protected]


----------



## Matt L

Well, my 38310 is back up and running. I bought a service contract from Sears and had it repaired. It was a bad power supply board, the caps problem, and they replaced the whole board. I think the cost of the board was $150 or so.


So at this point I'm a happy 39310 owner again.


----------



## masterp2

how much was the contract?


----------



## offsite123

San Diego.


F38310-YX5- mfg May2002 for sale by original owner... buyer pick up only (no shipping).


Purchased in July 2002, San Diego, Ca... 5 year warranty still in effect.


No trouble ever... we always disconnect power when not being operated.


email [email protected]


----------



## masterp2

Ditto in Phoenix


----------



## Matt L




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masterp2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how much was the contract?




If I recall correctly it was $250 for 1 year. they offered other options 2, 3, and 4 years that ranged up to $1100! At that price I'd buy a Plasma. Anyway, I looked at the price on the power supply board and it was $109.


Right now I'm happy with the set, it's replacement, hopefully in a few years will be at minimum a 50" Plasma.


----------



## dude1394

Mine is still running great but little things annoy me about it.


I'm now trying to connect my laptop up to it and run audio through it. But it seems there must be a video input or it will not play the audio. This may be a standard deal but it's a pain.


----------



## sranger3

My RCA F38310 YX5 mfg 3/02 has died after 3 trips to the Service Center. The first trip was Diode Caps problem May 2003 still under extended warranty. The second trip was for a couple of parts(TV kept cycling on and off) $400 May 2005. The third and last trip they told me the tube was shot $1800 estimate Aug 2006. Last year I was offered a buyout of around $1400 because they couldn't get the parts. After 8 weeks they found them so they fixed it. This time I pushed them hard (wrote emails to Thompson and many phone calls to Consumer Relations/Exchange Team) and they offered me $1000 plus the $75 pickup and $75 estimate. I took the money and ran to Costco and picked up the 42" Vizio LCD for 1599.00. The picture is outstanding and I don't need a warranty (Costco).


Good luck to the rest


Thanks Dr Joe and Ratman over the years for your help with this set.


I actually loved the set when it worked.


----------



## Stevenage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sranger3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 42" Vizio LCD for 1599.00. The picture is outstanding and I don't need a warranty (Costco).



Sorry about your loss. I love mine and so far it has been problem free.


How would you compare picture quality between the two. It is hard to beet the F38310.


Steven


----------



## sranger3

Your right it is hard to beat the 38310. The blacks were better on the 38310. The Vizio has a damn good picture though. For sports the LCD has a better picture. For movies the 38310 was better. The Xbox 360 experience is much better on the LCD. Its like nite and day.


----------



## gus738

alright guys im going to wake up this thread lol , i own a f38310 38'' hdtv 1080i widescreen , im sure u guys know it , but i was wondering if should i upgrade tv or not , this one is a daily user ever since day one!!! so i dont even want to do that service count lol !







sometimes i see the red burn in when ever theirs a colorful situation , but it disapears and no evdince is left behind !







now reasons why i want to upgrade


*full 1080p*


*50''+size*


*pc connections*



i was looking at the JVC HD-ILA 56fn97 , its a 56'' full 1080p but it kinda looks dark from angles....



and fianly i want to get it from costco or its website .... price is not a factor but PICTURE QUALITY is!!!!







and this applies to some crappy tvs look from side viewing angles that it looks dark/dim!!!







so thats why i ask so that i dont make mistake....


this is the link >>> if i need to remove it let me know cuz i dont wanna get in trouble lol http://www.costco.com/Common/Category.aspx?whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4001374&pos=0&ViewAll=50&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=2341&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&ec=&topnav= 


PS: where is the 'general" fourm/ correct place to make a thread of what tv to get tha is better then f38310" ....


----------



## eddieras

my question is, i'm up for renewal again on the extended warranty - sets about 3 years old and has worked as a charm, no probs at all. but it seems it can crap out at any time. i've been doing one year at a time on the warranty. what do you guys think? am i safe at this point - or is one never safe with this set???


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> my question is, i'm up for renewal again on the extended warranty - sets about 3 years old and has worked as a charm, no probs at all. but it seems it can crap out at any time. i've been doing one year at a time on the warranty. what do you guys think? am i safe at this point - or is one never safe with this set???



why not extend the warranty to the max its cheaper ( yes i know higher price) but insted of dooing 2 yrs plus 2 or 3 plus 3 , .... is the warranty from circuit city?


i love my set but i want bigger size 1080p ( i have 1080i) hdmi ports and pc connectable.... but this set never given me problems right out of the box , no service calls have been done and i had this set over 5 yrs ago


----------



## UncD2000

Just had my first service call today (CC extended warranty) at 5 years & 4 months. Although the F38310 is still operating well, it is exuding an annoying odor. Looks

like it will need a new DM-1 module. Anyone know if these modules are still available?


I added the D* HR20 DVR to my setup recently. It has a few quirks, but overall it is my

favorite of the 5 different DVR's I have tried with the F38310.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just had my first service call today (CC extended warranty) at 5 years & 4 months. Although the F38310 is still operating well, it is exuding an annoying odor. Looks
> 
> like it will need a new DM-1 module. Anyone know if these modules are still available?
> 
> 
> I added the D* HR20 DVR to my setup recently. It has a few quirks, but overall it is my
> 
> favorite of the 5 different DVR's I have tried with the F38310.



if you still have warranty have them service it lol , they would come 2 ur house as i too bought it in circuit city , did you get any color burn in ? even if it disapers???


a dm1 modle is the brain i belive , dont worry if they have parts or not , they should but being kinda old they might not , chances i woud say 75 % yes ,


"if it anit broekn dont fix it " in this case its broken so have it service since u ahve warranty ... where r u located ? staTE?


----------



## Ratman

UncD2000,

Is the OTA/Satellite tuner still operating "normally"? If so, I'd be hestitant to have them fooling with the DM-1 module too quickly. (The DM-1 itself is essentially the "built-in" DTC-100 receiver).


Is the supposed problem the actual DM-1 or the DM-1 power supply? Perhaps one of the caps is leaking from the power supply... thus the smell. Also, check that the fan on the DM-1 is still operating and "clean". I've read previous posts where the fan(s) were covered with lots of dust/dirt.


Good luck finding a DM-1. I would make sure that they (CC) have a replacement before they start messing around. I hope they are sure and not just "guessing" that the DM-1 is from where the odor is eminating.


----------



## UncD2000

Thanks, Ratman. It is the technician's idea that replacing the DM-1 might solve the problem. The tuner is still operating normally, except that it occasionally will not lock onto 2-1 (WBBM CBS) and just freezes on a blank screen. I will suggest that a cap in the power supply may be leaking. The fans looked OK, but I'll have to take another look to be sure.


The odor is initially slightly "sweet", but has a secondary component that is very offensive and worsens as the ontime increases. This has caused me no end of grief as the TV must have the window behind it open to be tolerable. We are having a cold wave at the moment and I had to move my viewing to another TV last night.

Had to move my HR20 and LG 3410A DVRs as well as the cold weather is expected to

last several days.


----------



## gus738

ok so i missleaded or had missed information sorry , but if theirs a problems i would have it service since it has warranty


----------



## Ratman

gus738,

Did you mean to say...


"Okay, so I was misinformed or perhaps provided misleading information. But, if there's a problem with the TV and the warranty is still in force, I would have it serviced."


Good suggestion. That's why we purchase extended warranties.










U gotz ta brush up on ur forum skillz bruddah.


----------



## Richom

Well, today I found out that after several years of service, my RCA HDTV is a goner.







I have had all the 'normal' repairs done over the years...plus an extra one or two. Even had the whole unit replaced with a brand new 'in the box' one. But now the repair shop tells me that the DM-1 module is dead. The new part is $1200. Does anyone have any suggestions? Where can I find a used DM-1? Maybe someone wants it for parts. I even have an extra set of new caps & diodes.


----------



## mpmp0

this seems the liveliest thread concerning this monser set so i figured i'd ask questions here.


my set has been going strong since 2002--no service calls as of yet and i recently bought a new warranty. i dread the day when it goes--it's going to be heck getting this thing out of here.


currently hooked up to component switcher (Comcast HD receiver, Xbox 360, DVD).


do we have a definitive answer yet regarding HD-DVD and the 38310? since it only has component inputs and 1080i, are HD-DVD players worth looking into?


my first foray might be a minor one, getting the HD-DVD attachment for my Xbox 360--and purchasing from some place with a good return policy. but for the regular HD-DVD players, will there be a visual difference? i'm not even sure if the component hookups will be supported at this point. (not a techie--speak "down" to me for clarity)


thanks!


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mpmp0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this seems the liveliest thread concerning this monser set so i figured i'd ask questions here.
> 
> 
> my set has been going strong since 2002--no service calls as of yet and i recently bought a new warranty. i dread the day when it goes--it's going to be heck getting this thing out of here.
> 
> 
> currently hooked up to component switcher (Comcast HD receiver, Xbox 360, DVD).
> 
> 
> do we have a definitive answer yet regarding HD-DVD and the 38310? since it only has component inputs and 1080i, are HD-DVD players worth looking into?
> 
> 
> my first foray might be a minor one, getting the HD-DVD attachment for my Xbox 360--and purchasing from some place with a good return policy. but for the regular HD-DVD players, will there be a visual difference? i'm not even sure if the component hookups will be supported at this point. (not a techie--speak "down" to me for clarity)
> 
> 
> thanks!




well im on a similir boat , hd n blue ray both are now 1080p our tv rated 1080i and they are hdmi ports our tvs dont have that , the closes is oviously componet which is super analog but not yet hd now i was told that when ppl use hd from 360 the only ones that will be able to enjoy "true hd " are the ones using vga cable why? iduuno im guessing thats closet to hdmi


theirs a componet to hdmi converter i belive but it anit cheap and more likely you will get a loss so i dont know the outcome , my tv has no service calls ever sine it came out on stores 4 sale ( day 1 ) and im hoping it can live long enought for SED Tv as thats the only thing that is better then crt tube


----------



## hjriver




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Richom* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, today I found out that after several years of service, my RCA HDTV is a goner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had all the 'normal' repairs done over the years...plus an extra one or two. Even had the whole unit replaced with a brand new 'in the box' one. But now the repair shop tells me that the DM-1 module is dead. The new part is $1200. Does anyone have any suggestions? Where can I find a used DM-1? Maybe someone wants it for parts. I even have an extra set of new caps & diodes.



You should be able to find a DM-1 for less than $1200. I've had 5 of them this year. Lightning got 2 of them and two of the last 3 replacements were bad. 20 khz switching signal for the LNB's was missing on all. Evidently the repair shop doesn't check for that. Without the 20 kz it is stuck on one satellite. To get around it until I got a good module I bought an inline 20 khz signal injector from solid signal for 14.99. Worked like a charml.


At any rate they are around $800 exchange. Thank god for BB service contract. I bought the set in Nov 2001 and BB gave me a 4 year policy. I renewed it in Nov 2006 for $345 for 3 more years.


----------



## hjriver




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> UncD2000,
> 
> Is the OTA/Satellite tuner still operating "normally"? If so, I'd be hestitant to have them fooling with the DM-1 module too quickly. (The DM-1 itself is essentially the "built-in" DTC-100 receiver).
> 
> 
> Is the supposed problem the actual DM-1 or the DM-1 power supply? Perhaps one of the caps is leaking from the power supply... thus the smell. Also, check that the fan on the DM-1 is still operating and "clean". I've read previous posts where the fan(s) were covered with lots of dust/dirt.
> 
> 
> Good luck finding a DM-1. I would make sure that they (CC) have a replacement before they start messing around. I hope they are sure and not just "guessing" that the DM-1 is from where the odor is eminating.



The DM-1 cooling fan is located under the DM-1 module which has to be removed to see it. You can tell if it's working though as it stays on all the time where the other 2 fans only come on when the set is turned on.


----------



## MrMolding

I've been think of getting one of these used but does anyone know if the component inputs on the back take a 1080i signal?


----------



## Ratman

yes.... 480i, 480p and 1080i. No 720p


----------



## bondisdead

I have a Spring 2001 F38310 for sale. I am the original owner. Only reason I am selling is because we are moving soon, and my wife wants a wall-mounted LCD.







I'm sad to give up this picture! It's been great for its 5+ years. Only repair was to replace the fan which starting whining.


Contact me at [email protected] if interested.


----------



## sranger3

Just got my check in the mail for $1,330.00. Thank you very much Thompson Consumer Electronics (RCA)


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sranger3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my check in the mail for $1,330.00. Thank you very much Thompson Consumer Electronics (RCA)



Please explain.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please explain.


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8530064


----------



## findango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sranger3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My RCA F38310 YX5 mfg 3/02 has died after 3 trips to the Service Center. The first trip was Diode Caps problem May 2003 still under extended warranty. The second trip was for a couple of parts(TV kept cycling on and off) $400 May 2005. The third and last trip they told me the tube was shot $1800 estimate Aug 2006. Last year I was offered a buyout of around $1400 because they couldn't get the parts. After 8 weeks they found them so they fixed it. This time I pushed them hard (wrote emails to Thompson and many phone calls to Consumer Relations/Exchange Team) and they offered me $1000 plus the $75 pickup and $75 estimate. I took the money and ran to Costco and picked up the 42" Vizio LCD for 1599.00. The picture is outstanding and I don't need a warranty (Costco).
> 
> 
> Good luck to the rest
> 
> 
> Thanks Dr Joe and Ratman over the years for your help with this set.
> 
> 
> I actually loved the set when it worked.



Mine just started cycling on and off the other day! What was the problem with yours? Waiting to hear from the TV guy up the street.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *findango* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine just started cycling on and off the other day! What was the problem with yours? Waiting to hear from the TV guy up the street.




Have you previously had the caps and diodes fix?


----------



## UncD2000

My F38310 is gone. Last Saturday (11/18) Circuit City replaced it under the Extended Warranty/Protection Plan. They allowed my full original (June 2001) purchase price as credit toward any new TV in stock. I was able to get the Sony 40" Bravia LCD (KDL-40XBR2) for just $12.86 cash difference (the current price on the Sony is $2500). This is a 1080P model with 3 HDMI & 2 component inputs, ATSC/QAM/NTSC tuner, and an impressive variety of parameter adjustments in the menu. The black levels are not quite as good as the F38310, but are better than I expected thanks to Sony's various enhancements. I will miss my RCA, but not its 215 lbs (the Sony weighs 77).


As I posted earlier, my F38310 began to emit an offensive odor last summer. I promptly reported this to CC service, but a number of delays took place, and finally a sympathetic representative said he would request a replacement since several months had elapsed. I almost never purchase extended warranties, but this one worked out very well in the end. I was planning to keep the F38310 until SED arrived, but I think the XBR2 will do a good job.


----------



## Ratman

Wow! You're quite fortunate. Congrats!


Sorry to see another one bite the dust. Despite the problems, this is one set that will be sorely missed (when mine finally craps out). Enjoy your new HDTV!


----------



## jwheeler

So are we thinking that all these sets will meet an early demise? I wonder if I should take CC up on their offer to renew my warranty since mine is out. I have had the board replaced and haven't had any problems but it seems like there is a set dropping now every couple of months or so.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My F38310 is gone. Last Saturday (11/18) Circuit City replaced it under the Extended Warranty/Protection Plan. They allowed my full original (June 2001) purchase price as credit toward any new TV in stock. I was able to get the Sony 40" Bravia LCD (KDL-40XBR2) for just $12.86 cash difference (the current price on the Sony was $2790). This is a 1080P model with 3 HDMI & 2 component inputs, ATSC/QAM/NTSC tuner, and an impressive variety of parameter adjustments in the menu. The black levels are not quite as good as the F38310, but are better than I expected thanks to Sony's various enhancements. I will miss my RCA, but not its 215 lbs (the Sony weighs 77).
> 
> 
> As I posted earlier, my F38310 began to emit an offensive odor last summer. I promptly reported this to CC service, but a number of delays took place, and finally a sympathetic representative said he would request a replacement since several months had elapsed. I almost never purchase extended warranties, but this one worked out very well in the end. I was planning to keep the F38310 until SED arrived, but I think the XBR2 will do a good job.



me too i was plahining on keeping this one til sed arrives , i havnt seen the xbr edition but i have seen the bravia kdl 46v25 or sometin like that , and anyone woudl be a fool not to buy a warranty lol its a must ,


however your money would of been best spent on costco 46'' bravia cuz its lifetime warranty for your cash back no reapirs no sending the unit


cc is pos compared to it and we used to be one of the best buyers from my local cc .. blacks were incrediable on the non xbr and for what i heard xbr sopose to be better so maybe it needs a little touch of tweeking ...


----------



## UncD2000

Unfortunately, when CC offers a replacement TV under the extended warranty, a CC credit is issued. Otherwise, I would have gone straight to Costco (3 blocks away from my residence) rather than CC (10 miles away).


The XBR2 has automatic programs that adjust contrast to the scene displayed as well as to the ambient illumination level in the room. These do a fine job, but blacks and shadow detail still fall a bit short of what a good CRT can produce.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, when CC offers a replacement TV under the extended warranty, a CC credit is issued. Otherwise, I would have gone straight to Costco (3 blocks away from my residence) rather than CC (10 miles away).
> 
> 
> The XBR2 has automatic programs that adjust contrast to the scene displayed as well as to the ambient illumination level in the room. These do a fine job, but blacks and shadow detail still fall a bit short of what a good CRT can produce.



thats right they offer only credit only, but you could of sold it to someone else or use it up on other stuff?? but yea its soo true about noting comparing to crt tube techology and yet sed tv countdown keeps on going on


----------



## UncD2000

My choices to replace the F38310 finally narrowed down to 2 models, and Costco doesn't carry either one. Extended return privileges are nice, but not if you have to compromise on your selection. If my Sony LCD develops any problems, hopefully they can be remedied during the 12-month manufacturers' warranty period.


----------



## findango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you previously had the caps and diodes fix?




When it was new out of the box they replaced the caps, etc. Now the TV guys tell me too bad, call them a beast and suggest repairers stay away from them. too bad!


I ordered a Toshiba 42HL196 yesterday.


Gonna miss this F38, if anyone want parts I am on the space coast of florida. Let me know fast as the dumpster awaits if it does not heal itself this week.


I am builing a garage and would like to had this as a drive-in theater set up.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My choices to replace the F38310 finally narrowed down to 2 models, and Costco doesn't carry either one. Extended return privileges are nice, but not if you have to compromise on your selection. If my Sony LCD develops any problems, hopefully they can be remedied during the 12-month manufacturers' warranty period.



theirs no better tv thats affortable to the non "elite primeir price" whic is that 46'' lcd no motion blurr and 100% true about its black levels and full 1080p .... and fianly the biggest thats afforable


unless of course you go with rear projection then viewing angles are dark and dimmed..


trust me theirs no better unit then that sony bravia 46'' kdl 46v from costco ,


and well bottom line if you buy that tv from cc or bb in the end you are stuck with re purchase/ only invest in that store thing if you buy warranty as were from costco you return it when sed tv hits stores and you basicly borred the tv for free just loaned your money for exchange of tv ...


look at the tv atlest dude im sure u'll like it mb this is the only close unit that can compare to our rca f38310


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> theirs no better tv thats affortable to the non "elite primeir price" whic is that 46'' lcd no motion blurr and 100% true about its black levels and full 1080p .... and fianly the biggest thats afforable
> 
> 
> unless of course you go with rear projection then viewing angles are dark and dimmed..
> 
> 
> trust me theirs no better unit then that sony bravia 46'' kdl 46v from costco ,
> 
> 
> and well bottom line if you buy that tv from cc or bb in the end you are stuck with re purchase/ only invest in that store thing if you buy warranty as were from costco you return it when sed tv hits stores and you basicly borred the tv for free just loaned your money for exchange of tv ...
> 
> 
> look at the tv atlest dude im sure u'll like it mb this is the only close unit that can compare to our rca f38310




To my eyes plasmas come the closest to CRT like image on a set. Especially that new Pioneer 50" 1080p plasma. but of course its $8k. I even thought that the 1080i plasmas looked great and certainly better than LCD or DLP rear projection sets.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To my eyes plasmas come the closest to CRT like image on a set. Especially that new Pioneer 50" 1080p plasma. but of course its $8k. I even thought that the 1080i plasmas looked great and certainly better than LCD or DLP rear projection sets.



i hated lcd but once i looked that this kdl46v2500 or sometin like that it is the biggest 1080p tv anyone can afford it has very strong blacks , no motion blurr and its native resolution not upscaled so this tv is the only one of its kind ( lcd type) to be a low cost compareable to crt tube or the high end pioneer elite.....


watch just go look at it in your local store and u know what i mean....


----------



## wward

Well I am very happy to report that my F38310 is still in service and I have not experienced any issues to date.


Need to get it recalibrated as the picture has softened some what, but otherwise all is well. My original purchase date was 7/03.


Will be looking to retire the old iron horse sometime next year and purchase a flat panel for my main home theater.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wward* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I am very happy to report that my F38310 is still in service and I have not experienced any issues to date.
> 
> 
> Need to get it recalibrated as the picture has softened some what, but otherwise all is well. My original purchase date was 7/03.
> 
> 
> Will be looking to retire the old iron horse sometime next year and purchase a flat panel for my main home theater.



u know once u replace that crt tube ur asking for less quality and more style on design? despite of that you gotta look for the winner on the tv and i personaly think that the costco's 3g tv is as close as you can get in terms of quality and size


----------



## wward




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> u know once u replace that crt tube ur asking for less quality and more style on design?



Maybe... I have a 32" Flat panel in my bed room and love it (tho the F 38310 has better picture attributes). There are a couple of flat panel displays that I have seen that come close (they are pricey) and they don't take up nearly as much space.


Besides I didn't say I was getting rid of it all together just moving it to the basement (smaller home theater).


----------



## gus738

well this tv is as close as i can see on crt tube quality wise very very close and yes its true 100% of what they said about its blacks level

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11174195&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4001382&Mo=26&pos=1&No=1&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=3316&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&ec=&topnav= 

no other best way to buy a tv not atlest til sed tv hits stores lol this is going to be mine then after that only sed tv


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> theirs no better tv thats affortable to the non "elite primeir price" whic is that 46'' lcd no motion blurr and 100% true about its black levels and full 1080p .... and fianly the biggest thats afforable
> 
> 
> unless of course you go with rear projection then viewing angles are dark and dimmed..
> 
> 
> trust me theirs no better unit then that sony bravia 46'' kdl 46v from costco ,
> 
> 
> and well bottom line if you buy that tv from cc or bb in the end you are stuck with re purchase/ only invest in that store thing if you buy warranty as were from costco you return it when sed tv hits stores and you basicly borred the tv for free just loaned your money for exchange of tv ...
> 
> 
> look at the tv atlest dude im sure u'll like it mb this is the only close unit that can compare to our rca f38310



For my purposes the KDL-40XBR2 (the 40" version of the 46" that Costco carries) is a better replacement for my F38310.

I'll explain this later, but first, drawing on my experiences with the CC Advantage Protection Plan over the last few months, I'll try to explain how their replacement protocol works.


In a previous post, sranger3 reported that he received a $1330 check from Thomson Consumer Electronics for his F38310 that they decided not to repair. He was then able to go to Costco and purchase a Vizio LCD. In my case, after several frustrating months of trying to get CC to repair my F38310, a very considerate rep offered to initiate their replacement procedure. They don't do buyouts, nor do they credit you with the original cost (as I first believed). Instead, you are given a Ticket Number and a Claim Number which you submit to a salesman at any CC location. He confers with the floor manager to determine a suitable replacement for your TV. I could very well have received something like a Polaroid 37", and would have had no recourse because my beloved F38310 was 5-1/2 years old and worth maybe $200. I was fortunate to get the attention of a very helpful salesman who made it possible for me to get exactly what I wanted, the Sony 40" LCD KDL-40XBR2, a 1080P model with 3 HDMI and 2 component inputs.


gus738, I appreciate your effort to help, but there isn't any way that the CC replacement procedure could make a Costco purchase possible. I know that the 46" Sony they carry is a great TV, but my needs for my HT are served best by something in the 37"-40" range. This is why I purchased the F38310 in June 2001. It was exactly the right size display, although I was never happy about the 215 lbs. The 40XBR2 weighs in at 77#, which is a bit more than I would like, but acceptable. The 46" version weighs over 90#. Its 31.4" height would also be a major problem as I like to have my eye level at screen center. The 40" is over 3" shorter, in fact it's just 2-1/2" taller than the F38310, and this is working out well.


Another consideration is pixel density. I like to sit at 1.3X the diagonal. This yields a field of view 37 degrees wide and a very nice feeling of involvement. To sit this close to a fixed pixel display (52" from a 40" screen), I find it best to have at least 3000 pixels/sq.in. A 40" 1080 x 1920 display has 3033 pixels/sq.in., but at 46" diagonal this drops to 2294 pixels. A person with good visual acuity might see individual pixels at this distance (5 feet) from a 46" 1080P display. BTW, I had no problem sitting about 50" from the F38310. Its fine pitch design was very nice for close viewing.


----------



## Stevenage

I love my f38 and don't want to replace it. But. I am thinking about dumping directv for cable. I am worried that the picture quality through the component input won't be too good.


I have also heard that directv is changing the way they transmit their HD signal that will make our built-in directv tuner useless.


Anyone getting an HD signal from cable and how does it look?


Thanks!


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevenage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love my f38 and don't want to replace it. But. I am thinking about dumping directv for cable. I am worried that the picture quality through the component input won't be too good.
> 
> 
> I have also heard that directv is changing the way they transmit their HD signal that will make our built-in directv tuner useless.
> 
> 
> Anyone getting an HD signal from cable and how does it look?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



HAHAHA LMAFO sorry for the insult but CABLE IS **** !!! if you want true hd stick with the best company directv!!! and componet is the best you can deliver from f38 why? cuz hdmi is best then its componet (super analog ) then s video. but seriously cable is crap and directv is best i'd rather have noting then cable .... heck even f38 gives you free hd channels ova as where cable charges you alot.... seriously stay with directv you and me as customers know its the best AND ITS CHEAPER!!! whats not to like or why even bother about cable . its ANALOG and will NEVER be digital despite the boxes and what not .


BY THE WAY WHEN YOU SAID "IM WORRIED ABOUT THE PICTURE QUALITY THORO COMPONET " well then what other best way do you expect ? thats 1 and 2 how would cable inprove it ?


UncD2000 : yeah the xbr is a nice set its soposed be a higher end model then the v2500 series . and i was just letting ppl know about costco...


----------



## tommylotto

DirecTV's HD signal is reduced from 1920x1080i to 1280x1088i and transmitted with a very low bit rate. Most consider its picture quality substandard. Even though the F38310 can only resolve 1280 h, the filtering, encoding and re-encoding degrades the picture. The low bit rate results in macroblocking and other artifects. Its called HD-Lite and I think looks worse than regular DVD's. Some cable companies might be doing the same thing, but generally, the cable companies do not seem to be as bandwidth starved as DirecTV.


The F38310 only handles MPEG-2 and DirecTV is in the slow process of changing to MPEG-4. So eventually, the DirecTV tuner in the F38310 will be useless.


HD looks fine through the component connection on the back of the F38310, but it only accepts 1080i, not 720p. Your decoder box with have to convert all channels to 1080i, which most can do. I have an HD-Tivo hooked up to the back of mine outputing 1080i and it looks fine. (I'm stuck with DirecTV due to their monopoly on the NFL)


----------



## gus738

i dont know why you guys dont like directv , oviously cable is no where near the quality NEVER and dish claims to have more channels BUT they NEVER clain 100% audio or video WHICH IS important.... i never decide to use the f38's built in receiver...


INSTED i bought the NEW HR20 http://gear.ign.com/articles/679/679224p1.html from costco under $300 bucks , and its ova recording as well so its 3 tunners


and its no longer "tivo" its directv digital video recorder its 200 sd hrs or 50 hd hrs its the newest thing..... ( cost site doesnt have it only local stores)


----------



## Stevenage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> BY THE WAY WHEN YOU SAID "IM WORRIED ABOUT THE PICTURE QUALITY THORO COMPONET " well then what other best way do you expect ? thats 1 and 2 how would cable inprove it ?



Man, you sure are abrasive. I just wanted to know if people are happy with the PQ over the component. May be some day I'll be an expert like you










Thank you Tommy, that helped me feel better about the component input... Go Bears!!


----------



## tommylotto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevenage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Man, you sure are abrasive. I just wanted to know if people are happy with the PQ over the component. May be some day I'll be an expert like you



I think that might be Hob by another name. He goes way back with the F38310.


----------



## Ratman

LOL! Hob... what a character.

"What's your odometer reading?"


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommylotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that might be Hob by another name. He goes way back with the F38310.



That same thought crossed my mind.


I thought about Hob's "Foolscreen" rants a couple of years ago when I bought a 32" Sony 4x3 HD as a gift when CC closed out the 500 series. It has turned out fine so far. The 167lbs. has been the only criticism.


----------



## gus738

i love this unit so far if thats what you guys mean but i wonder if will survive when sed tv hits or until i decide to get that tv from costco...


----------



## badabing

Hey guys...


My JX4 is still going strong... Knock on wood!!! Only problem i ever had was when we had a power surge... I lost the audio... I just unplugged it, plugged it back in, and it was good to go again... No problems since. I do have a few questions though.. Maybe you guys can help out..


(1) Is the latest DTC-100 firmware still the 5.10?


(2) Have any good modifications come out... Video out etc,.


(3) How will it handle the new PS3 (Playstation-3) games that are 720P. At the moment the PS3 cannot output 1080I, it does 1080P though for Blue Ray Movies..


----------



## Ratman

1) Yes

2) No

3) The F38310 only accepts 480i, 480p or 1080i via the component inputs.


----------



## badabing

Thanks....


So playing a 720P signal would be down converted to 480P by the F38310... Mmmm... I thought the F38310 also upconverted to 540P?


----------



## Ratman

No... you are confused.


One more time:

the component inputs will ONLY accept a 480i, 480p or 1080i signal input. The component inputs will NOT accept a 720p signal NOR a 1080p signal.


Via the "internal tuner" (ota, analog cable, satellite)... 480i is upscaled to 540p, 720p upscaled to 1080i, 1080i remains 1080i.


----------



## gus738

so ps3 playback is still poor on this tv thast why im waiting for the ps3 waves to calm down then get a new tv , the only one that seems matched in quality in and affortable is the sony bravia 46'' kdl-46v2500 series which does everyting including 1080p and its hdmi true blacks ( yea rumores were right) and no motion blurr or any other disadvatages that lcds have are arleady fixed on this unit


----------



## mostau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevenage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love my f38 and don't want to replace it. But. I am thinking about dumping directv for cable. I am worried that the picture quality through the component input won't be too good.
> 
> 
> I have also heard that directv is changing the way they transmit their HD signal that will make our built-in directv tuner useless.
> 
> 
> Anyone getting an HD signal from cable and how does it look?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Stevenage,


My F38310 tuner could not pick up the first day of NFL games this year due to a problem that only affected RCA DTC-100 recievers (which in built-in to the F38310). I called DTV about it and they gave me an HR-200 and a 5 LNB dish at no cost. It's connected via component and looks GREAT. Now I get all my local TV in HD as well. Give DTV a call, I'm sure they'll give you a deal to keep you from leaving. Just ask for customer retention.


I hope to hang on to my F38310 as long as possible. It's still got the best HDTV picture I've ever seen


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mostau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stevenage,
> 
> 
> My F38310 tuner could not pick up the first day of NFL games this year due to a problem that only affected RCA DTC-100 recievers (which in built-in to the F38310). I called DTV about it and they gave me an HR-200 and a 5 LNB dish at no cost. It's connected via component and looks GREAT. Now I get all my local TV in HD as well. Give DTV a call, I'm sure they'll give you a deal to keep you from leaving. Just ask for customer retention.
> 
> 
> I hope to hang on to my F38310 as long as possible. It's still got the best HDTV picture I've ever seen



you mean a hr20 .... did you re contract?


----------



## mostau

Oops, yep I meant the HR20. Yes, I had to do the 2 year deal, but a free HD-DVR, new dish/ 8 port multiswitch and installation is a pretty sweet deal


----------



## gus738

yeah i agree its a nice thing i mean the moment you actiave or swtich cards you ahe to activate a new agreement so a 5lnb eqipment for free plus a 300 dollar machine its nice... what pakage do you hav?


----------



## mostau

All the normal channels, extra discoveries, locals, etc. Plus HDTV, HBO, and Sunday Ticket. Nothing spectacular, but I'm happy.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tommylotto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that might be Hob by another name. He goes way back with the F38310.




Lmao...thats exactly what I was going to say. Sure sounds like old Hob, grammar and all! By the way I switched from D* to Verizon FIOS and I think word is it's currently the leader in PQ since its fiber and unrestrained bandwidth. Cheaper too but the DVR sucks compared to the HR10-250. It is quicker responding. I did a quicky PQ comparison while I still had both services through a component switch and I couldnt tell any difference in PQ on HD although SD frequently looks better, but also some SD channels look like scheisse some times.


I had a look at that new Pioneer Elite 50" 1080p plasma and boy howdy! Me likes. I just have to hit Hob up for a loan though!


----------



## gus738

hey look our tv how much it retails i just put the model number and it brought this page up

http://shop.homeappliances.com/hadea...4&STORENUM=770 


oh and im selling it make an offer


----------



## UncD2000

I thought Loewe was the only mfr that ever priced the 38" Performax over 4K. Maybe I let my F38310 go too cheap when CC swapped it out for the Sony KDL-40XBR2 LCD.


----------



## gus738

im trying to sell mine im asking 1 g atlest oviously perfect conditions


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> im trying to sell mine im asking 1 g atlest oviously perfect conditions



I think you better ease off the meds Hob if you think your gonna get a grand for that set, also so you can type coherently










I paid $1200.00 for mine in 2002. Heck you can get 50" plasmas for under a grand now. How many hours do you have on that thing now?


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you better ease off the meds Hob if you think your gonna get a grand for that set, also so you can type coherently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid $1200.00 for mine in 2002. Heck you can get 50" plasmas for under a grand now. How many hours do you have on that thing now?



no i think its actually pretty cheap , a few months ago i was offerd almsot 3 gs yes over what i paid and 2 weeks ago 1,800 and of course cash. i dont know how many hrs i have runnig on this tv how do i do it ? is it dangrous ? and i think i have alot of hrs

i think it cost me around 2 gs with warranty from circuit city


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you better ease off the meds Hob ..



He's ba-a-a-ack!


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> no i think its actually pretty cheap , a few months ago i was offerd almsot 3 gs yes over what i paid and 2 weeks ago 1,800 and of course cash. i dont know how many hrs i have runnig on this tv how do i do it ? is it dangrous ? and i think i have alot of hrs
> 
> i think it cost me around 2 gs with warranty from circuit city



If you can get it then great but I think you may be dreaming. How do you check the hours??? is it dangerous???? LMAO... your a funny guy Hob!


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...a few months ago i was offerd almsot 3 gs yes over what i paid and 2 weeks ago 1,800 and of course cash. i think it cost me around 2 gs with warranty from circuit city



So someone offered to buy your "old" TV for $5000 and you refused?

Then someone offered $3800 and you refused?


Even if I misinterpreted your jibberish... someone offered you $1800 and you refused?


I call..... BS or sheer "over medication".


Send them to me! I'll sell my set....


----------



## gus738

well i dont know the menu system maybe complex and if you tamper with some options it might damge it or something....


----------



## gus738

no i was offerd around 3 gs or so a few back then recently 1,800 but i didnt make the jump because i dont know what tv of today looks decent enough to compare in terms of picture quality so i decide not to sell the tv , the only intresting from costco store is the sony bravia 46'' lcd kdl-46v2500 series


----------



## Ratman

John,

Just perform a seach using "F38310 odometer". You'll find all your old posts to refresh your memory.


----------



## egigas

My Odometer is at 36,000.

It runs great!

I got it two years ago of some rich jerk, who gave it away for $700 so he could get a Plasma.

I now have it hooked up to my HTPC. The OTA HD shows are amazing. The desktop is terrible. I am running through the s-video out from my 7900gs card that splits into component to the tube.


Should I be using a "dongle" or converter to connect for better picture?


I thought I read something about this and powerstrip settings but it just faded out.


----------



## rpgoodkin

I was an 'early adopter', and got my F38310 from BJ's Wholesale Club about five years ago. It was a floor model that I bought for less than $1,000. No repairs to date, although we we would probably qualify as 'light' users, using the set mostly for movies from the DVD player.


We had DirecTV for a while with excellent results (dish still mounted on the chimney) but we eventually went to cable for economic reasons because the local cable company (RCN) bundled Internet, telephone and cable into one package.


We can tune OTA HD with excellent results here in the western suburbs of Boston.


Picture is still breathtaking, with color fidelity and clarity that are unmatched. Having said that, the TV is in a family room and it faces two six foot sliders, so daytime viewing isn't really possible due to reflections on the glass tube from the sliders. Never been a problem as the little TV we watch is always at night.


We had an addition put on the house a year ago and got a high-end Hitachi 42" plasma that we hung on the wall. First time we have ever had a second TV in the house. The picture is pretty impressive.


Recently saw a 46" Sony Bravia LCD (in BJ's again - got to keep away from BJ's!) that has an amazingly sharp, vivid and glare-free picture. So, I just today purchased a new Sony Bravia 46" over Ebay (got to keep away from Ebay also!) for an amazing $2,454 delivered from a seller with high and all essentially positive feedback. Will be curious to see how the Sony looks in our house.


Because I liked the F38310 so much I found a used one for $850 a few years ago which I gave to my daughter. Unfortunately, their TV is always on, probably 12+ hours a day (rots the brain). So far their TV hasn't hiccuped and the picture is still lifelike, bright, clear and has excellent color fidelity.


The plan is to give my little-used F38310 to my daughter to replace their much-used set, and to give their still perfect F38310 to my brother-in-law to replace his 32" Sony SD TV which is about ten years old. The only obvious difficulty with this plan is moving these two elephantine sets around. My son-in-law is over six feet and over 200 pounds but I'm an old guy and a puny 5' 10" at 165 pounds. We're both pretty strong, but this will be an interesting challenge. Wish me luck.


These TV's have no resale value because they are so big and heavy. If we can't move the two sets around as I propose, I'll probably have to give my set away ('free to a good home').


My wife has asked why I would replace such a wonderful TV that we never even use anymore, and I'm having a hard time giving her a rational answer.


----------



## gus738

how do you compare the f3810 vs the sony bravia and we are talking about the v2500 series right? aka V25L1


----------



## rpgoodkin

Well, we moved the F38310 last Saturday. We didn't follow Plan A which was to swap my F38310 for my daughter's and to give her F38310 to my brother-in-law. On paper it sounded fine, but these sets are pretty buly and my daughter's set still delivers a perfect picture. Moving a set entails the risk of damaging the internals or just plain banging or dropping it. So, why fix what isn't broken? Plan B, which we executed, involved giving our F38310 to my brother-in-law.


My son-in-law, who is over 6' and over 200lbs and I (5'10" and 170lbs) carried it a short way from my first floor (no steps) into the Pacifica. We drove to my brother-in-law's home where we carried it in one continuous trip (too heavy to put down and pick up again) about 20' to a flight of steps, up 16 steps (one decent sized landing in the middle) and then about 30' to a Sony stand for a Sony 36" TV. The RCA extends about 5" on each side of the Sony stand, but the stand is rated up to 260lbs and seemed quite stable with the 216lb RCA on it. We hooked up the cable line, DVD and VHS and everything worked fine. Brother-in-law will get a Comcast HD box this week.


This move isn't for the faint-of-heart. My son-in-law was on the low end of the set as we climbed the stairs. I'm 61 years old and reasonably fit. Ten or more years ago I would have been on the low end of the set going up the stairs. In college I was on the low end of an apartment sized refrigerator going up two flights of steps in a dorm. Back in the 60's an apartment sized refrigerator was like a small elephant.


My advice to any of you who anticipate the need to move one of these behomeths is to get at least two, preferably three pretty strong guys or two professional furniture movers. The third guy can support the set under the middle from the front if there is room for three sets of hands. Going up stairs or down a hallway there will only be room for two sets of hands. My brother-in-law was able to help a little, but not on the stairs where it would have made a real difference.


The replacement for the F38310 will be a Sony 46" LCD with 1080p. Although 1080p is still for the future, I look forward to the glare-free LCD screen in a room where the TV directly faces 12 ' of windows. I expect that the RCA, which has been bulletproof for five years of light use in our home, should give my brother-in-law a decade of the best HD picture I've ever seen on any TV. At least I hope so after the strain of moving the TV to his house.


----------



## gb33

I gotta say I love mine. However the new TV bug has bit me so I am contemplating sticking it up onebay or maybe here as well. I was thinking about $500 probably. It is the YX5 with upgraded caps. Seems fair. This thing does still put out a very nice picture that's for sure. But the one HD input is killing me.


----------



## chrpai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevenage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love my f38 and don't want to replace it. But. I am thinking about dumping directv for cable. I am worried that the picture quality through the component input won't be too good.
> 
> 
> I have also heard that directv is changing the way they transmit their HD signal that will make our built-in directv tuner useless.
> 
> 
> Anyone getting an HD signal from cable and how does it look?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I don't think you have anything to worry about. I dumped D* just over a year ago for Time Warner. While the SA8300HD's GUI isn't as nice as D*, the picture quality over component input is great. The remote control also does a good job of controlling all of my devices ( still one remote ).


I run it through a component switchbox and also have an XBOX 360 with awesome gaming, media extender, HD-DVD, HD videos on Live Market Place. I still love my 38" CRT and my supporting electornics have been modernized by basically just using the F38310 as a straight monitor.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrpai* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think you have anything to worry about. I dumped D* just over a year ago for Time Warner. While the SA8300HD's GUI isn't as nice as D*, the picture quality over component input is great. The remote control also does a good job of controlling all of my devices ( still one remote ).
> 
> 
> I run it through a component switchbox and also have an XBOX 360 with awesome gaming, media extender, HD-DVD, HD videos on Live Market Place. I still love my 38" CRT and my supporting electornics have been modernized by basically just using the F38310 as a straight monitor.



What brand of component switcher are you using?


----------



## gb33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gb33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I gotta say I love mine. However the new TV bug has bit me so I am contemplating sticking it up onebay or maybe here as well. I was thinking about $500 probably. It is the YX5 with upgraded caps. Seems fair. This thing does still put out a very nice picture that's for sure. But the one HD input is killing me.



Sorry if I violated any rules with this posting. If it needs to be deleted I understand.


----------



## gb33

I too was using a (passive JVC) switcher. But got tired of getting up to switch. Also having to change picture settings between sources.


----------



## jones07

You be lucky to get $500. But it's not an outrageous asking price.

$300-$400 is more like it


Happy 6 year owner of the RCA F38310 little sister the RCA MM36100. Now only used for Xbox360 play by my kids


----------



## william8004




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No... you are confused.
> 
> 
> One more time:
> 
> the component inputs will ONLY accept a 480i, 480p or 1080i signal input. The component inputs will NOT accept a 720p signal NOR a 1080p signal.
> 
> 
> Via the "internal tuner" (ota, analog cable, satellite)... 480i is upscaled to 540p, 720p upscaled to 1080i, 1080i remains 1080i.



I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.



Will


----------



## tommylotto

That is huge.


How does it look?


What is the H resolution?


That would be a big improvement in using this monster with an HTPC if we can get it to sync at that higher resolution.


----------



## Ratman

1024x768 according to this:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/dvd...cd-player.html 


Well, after all these years of F38310 threads... this is the first I've heard of that!









Interesting indeed!


----------



## vinnyv07

I love my F38310...but with the prices of plazma tv's going down like a rock I often go to the stores and want to upgrade. But, I am very happy and will wait until my tv fails me. The on component input does hurt....I'm going to have to invest in a component switcher or get a new stereo receiver that has it built in. I hate running an HD feed through a switcher....I can't get it out of my mind that I am degrading the picture somehow by doing so.


----------



## gus738

vinnyv07 is their really a point in upgradinig this type of tv yet? i mean i can deal

with the space issue because i care about quality and i belive the only plasma that share quality they would be the pioneer .......


the only reason why i wanted to upgrade this tv was for


*PC PORT*


*1080P*


*HDMI*


*BIGGER SIZE* (most importanly


----------



## Stevenage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *william8004* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Will




I have been thinking about this. Even if our tv will accept 768p, no dvd player can legally send a signal out above 480p. Are you saying this one will?


I have a Buffalo Link Theater and they claim 720p and 1080i output with dvds only with the "beta" firmware. I can't really tell if it is, but some dvds look great while others don't. Could just be the way they are mastered.


Does our tv turn 480p compoment input in to 540p?


----------



## UncD2000

Several DVD players currently available will output 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, & 1080P.

The higher resolutions are only available via HDMI however.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UncD2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Several DVD players currently available will output 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, & 1080P.
> 
> The higher resolutions are only available via HDMI however.



not exactly , im using a panny dvd upconverter via componet to 1080i


and since you can use 1080P on componet i dont see why hdmi is the only way

of course hdmi is digital and looks alot more better but you dont need hdmi (in this case we cant use it and we still benefit from componet cables WHEN input componet mode


----------



## Ratman

John/Hob,

You should be well aware that "older" or "hacked" upconverting DVD players may allow 1080i via component. The reality is that the majority of new players do not allow higher than 480p via component due to copy protection restrictions.


----------



## gus738

i have the panasonic vhs to dvd player combo dmr-es46v , btw why u keep on calling me hob?????


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i have the panasonic vhs to dvd player combo dmr-es46v , btw why u keep on calling me hob?????




You know who you are Hob so quit playing dumb just admit it to us. we wont run you off or report you. There is no way there are two ppl that post like you do and own an F38310.


----------



## UncD2000

We were all big Hob fans (with the possible exception of the moderators).


----------



## escottshepherd

I know this is probably a silly question. But I am trying to send the signal from the '#2' tuner in my Dish Network DVR box to my f38310 over coax cable. I have to do this because the DVR is about 90 feet from the TV. I can't find the Dish signal when I connect the coax cable to either the satellite in, antenna a, or antenna b input? Is there a configuration option I'm missing, or will I have to buy a really long composite cable?


----------



## UncD2000

Not familiar with the Dish DVR, but is there a menu option where you select either Ch. 3 or Ch. 4 for the RF output, and then activate it?


----------



## escottshepherd

I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *escottshepherd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.



Do you have Verizon FIOS available to you?


----------



## locomo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *escottshepherd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had to switch the output from the dvr box to 'AIR' from 'CABLE'. That did it. Regular T.V. looks like shenanigans on the HD set, of course, but OTA HD signals are beautiful. One of these days the wife will let me order the HD package from DISH. But they want to charge a 200.00 fee for the HD DVR.



Supposedly, it's going to be free to lease Feb.1, with commitment.


----------



## vinnyv07




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> vinnyv07 is their really a point in upgradinig this type of tv yet? i mean i can deal
> 
> with the space issue because i care about quality and i belive the only plasma that share quality they would be the pioneer .......
> 
> the only reason why i wanted to upgrade this tv was for
> 
> *PC PORT*
> 
> *1080P*
> 
> *HDMI*
> 
> *BIGGER SIZE* (most importanly



The Pc port really doesn't matter to me much....but like you said, 1080p, bigger size and the HDMI input is huge. The fact that it doesn't have more than one component input hurts now. I have my 360 hooked up via component. So if and when I have to upgrade to a Directv HD receiver that is Mpeg 4 capable, I won't have an input to connect it to unless I buy a switcher. We will see.....maybe by the time I have to upgrade, it will be time for a new tv. My next tv will have 2 HDMI inputs plus 2 component inputs. But my 38310 has served me well.....and continues to do so.


----------



## Matt L

FYI, if you are looking for a switcher I'm using a very basic AV switch I picked up at RS for about $10. It does not switch audio, but my receiver does that fine. I just use the Yellow, Red and White inputs to connect to the RGB out on my DVD player and my HD TiVo. No remote, but then I do have to walk over to the DVD player to put the disk in, so no biggie.


BTW, I'm coming up on 5 years with my 38310, power supply went out a few months ago but had it replaced and all is well.


----------



## Signalseeker

Hello Everyone: I believe my F38310's internal tuner is starting to fail. As of this morning I do not receive several D* channels. Most of which are the HD channels, SD ESPN and ESPN News. It appears the problem starts on channel 13 and goes up to SD ESPN2. Several channels in this range still work, example CNN is out but court channel next channel up works, then after that, ESPN SD is out. My first thought did directv change the programming or sattelite feeds or the triple LNB is becoming obsolete? All other TV's (SD hughes receivers) in the house work on the SD channels that are out on the DM-1 module. According the Directv tech this suggests it is not the dish (tansponders) but the reciever.


If it is the the internal receiver can I buy a STB run it through the component input and still receive all programing? What STB is recommended? I looked at Directv website for available receivers but it appears they don't list them on the webpage anymore. Is there a new combo DVR with component out?


FYI - 47,693 hours on the set. Interesting the log started in 2003, however I had the set since August 2001. I guess the log started when D* service was initiated. I did get an Error code: 0x010000b0. Except for a few chokes early on, this set has performed flawlessly from day 1. BTW all the OTA HD channels still work which makes me wonder if it is the DM-1 module?


----------



## Matt L

Are you sure it's the tuner? I'd try another receiver on the Sat feed and see if perhaps the cable or the switch has gone bad. If that proves not to be the case, by chance are you in an area where D puts your locals on the new SAT?, do you need the new dish to get your locals? if so I'd bet that d would give you a new receiver to allow you to get your locals in HD. It would hurt to ask. Who knows you might be able to talk them into giving you an HD DVR. I would certainly look into it.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Signalseeker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone: I believe my F38310's internal tuner is starting to fail. As of this morning I do not receive several D* channels. Most of which are the HD channels, SD ESPN and ESPN News. It appears the problem starts on channel 13 and goes up to SD ESPN2. Several channels in this range still work, example CNN is out but court channel next channel up works, then after that, ESPN SD is out. My first thought did directv change the programming or sattelite feeds or the triple LNB is becoming obsolete? All other TV's (SD hughes receivers) in the house work on the SD channels that are out on the DM-1 module. According the Directv tech this suggests it is not the dish (tansponders) but the reciever.
> 
> 
> If it is the the internal receiver can I buy a STB run it through the component input and still receive all programing? What STB is recommended? I looked at Directv website for available receivers but it appears they don't list them on the webpage anymore. Is there a new combo DVR with component out?
> 
> 
> FYI - 47,693 hours on the set. Interesting the log started in 2003, however I had the set since August 2001. I guess the log started when D* service was initiated. I did get an Error code: 0x010000b0. Except for a few chokes early on, this set has performed flawlessly from day 1. BTW all the OTA HD channels still work which makes me wonder if it is the DM-1 module?




Try changing the LNB on the dish. I had a similar problem that was resolved with a new replacement. Other than that I ran a HR10-250 HD Tivo from Directv for some time before switching to Verizon FIOS. Works better than the internal tuner and integrates the OTA into the channel list. Also the new MPEG4 receiver is out which requires a whole new dish anyway so you might consider that. Good luck.


----------



## Ratman

You may want to try unplugging the set from the wall for a few minutes and re-perform a channel search.


----------



## Signalseeker

Thank you all for the input. Ratman I tried unplugging it twice even let it sit overnight but nothing happened. However after dinner today I turned the beast on and all is back to normal.... RCA or Directv gremlins???


I thought Thompson does not support this set anymore? But I have read other recent posts that suggests they still do? Can I still upgrade the diodes and capcitors. What about the new paddle, was Thompson upgrading the paddle for free? Were there ever recalls? Is it worth it at this point to update?


Thank you again.


----------



## Ratman

Thomson supports the set... hey can't get parts!










Caps and diodes on the Dm1 power supply can be easily replaced if/when you experience a failure.


I wouldn't be overly concerned with the paddle upgrade. Yes, it is free. I don't recall the exact version that was the "last available" but, it was something like 5.10.


----------



## Signalseeker

I tried several times today through Thomson's "great" customer service to obatin info on all the firmware/ paddle updates. I talked to about 8 customer service reps and they all said there were never any updates for the F38310. Meanwhile I was able to backdoor my way into the service center and talk to a genuine service tech who said the update does exist but was not sure how to get it to me or how much it costs to do. All my old contacts at Thompson, John Bubb was one, are gone. Talk about a run around. Well at least the set works and sounds like it is best to just leave it alone.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thomson supports the set... hey can't get parts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caps and diodes on the Dm1 power supply can be easily replaced if/when you experience a failure.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be overly concerned with the paddle upgrade. Yes, it is free. I don't recall the exact version that was the "last available" but, it was something like 5.10.



What is a paddle upgrade?


----------



## Ratman

Here's a FAQ... move down to "Firmware Upgrades" section:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's a FAQ... move down to "Firmware Upgrades" section:
> http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf



Ah thanks ratman for your quick response. Guess i will have to check out my versions. I dont have directv anymore so im not sure i will benifit too much.


----------



## Ratman

No benefit at all...


----------



## chivobones

OK, my 1st post on this forum.... I own two of the RCA sets and one wont turn on tonite. I used it last nite and everything worked fine, and I have never had a problem with it. Today, the fan is still running but it wont turn on. The remote and the button on the tv turn on the green power lite but thats all I get. I unplugged it while I was out for over an hour and no luck.

Anyone know whats up or know a good repair shop in the Riverside County area?

Obvioulsy I want an inhome repair, that thing is quite heavy.


----------



## locomo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *william8004* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Samsung HD841 DVD upscaling player. The F38310 will also accept 768P on the component inputs. It is not listed in the official specs, but it does do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Will



Known bug on the Sammy. 768p is closer to 640 x 480p.

If you hook up the Sammy via component to a monitor with 1 to 1 pixel mapping

720p looks right , but 768p looks tiny.

The RCA merely upscales it to fit the screen.


----------



## SDO

I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!


SDO


----------



## locomo

Sorry to hear about.

Obviously for $650, it's not worth the chance.

Check this part of the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6989161


----------



## locomo

I have to move my RCA to another room that's much smaller.

Never had the manual, so does anyone know what the

minimum clearance is in the back of the TV?

I'm worried about heat.

Thanks


----------



## Ratman

I'd keep the TV at least 4 inches between the back of the Tv and the wall.


Here's the manual:
http://support.rca.com/doc/Device_Do...generic&nvty=m


----------



## Matt L




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SDO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an RCA F38310 that is out of commission. The repair shop says it needs a power supply at about $650, but no guarantee of performance after repair. Any advice from anyone out there? I am capable of working at the component level, but have no schematics or troubleshooting guide. I would love to get this set back into working order! Thanks!
> 
> 
> SDO



As noted previously I had my powersupply board replaced by Sears last summer. The cost of the board was about $150, and it just popped in. They direct shipped it to me and I was tempted to install it instead of waiting for the service guy, but I thought there might be some adjustments that needed to be made after install, there were none.


Get the part number and start searching for the board, you might be able to do the repair.


BTW, the board they replaced was the one with the bad cap's on it if that is of any help....


----------



## SDO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sundowner8* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had my F38310 since 2001. Early last year it went out while I was watching it. No smoke, no fire, just like I hit the off switch. The local repair guys were clueless, so I purchased a repair manual and took a whack at it. It had a shorted diode in the standby power supply. Fired it up two weeks ago and the same beautiful picture came back on. With the integrated Directv and OTA tuners, it is truly a unique set (especially when you have to move it).



I have a similar problem with my set. Where was the location of the bad diode, and can you tell me where to get a service manual?


Thanks for your help!


SDO


----------



## RCA don

This is my first post to the RCA 38310 thread since joining the forum earlier this week. My 38310JX4 has continued to deliver a great HD picture since I purchased it in March of 2001, displaying no capacitor/diode problems to this moment. But I've never been a believer in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." adage.


In an effort to help the recent contributors to this thread who are experiencing power supply problems, searching for parts(capacitors/diodes) or getting $650 repair estimates for power supply repair/replacement, here's what I did to try to avoid the same problem for two of three more years. Yesterday (3/27) I ordered a complete power supply board from Sears Parts. Their price was $80.90 plus about $20 for shipping and handling via UPS Ground for a total price of $102. The board is due to arrive by or before April 9. I'm assuming that the board will contain upgraded capacitors and diodes. Even if that's not the case, I'll have the option of installing it anyway or returning it for a refund within 30 days.


Having reviewed this thread for well over a year, I'm convinced that my approach is the best way to prevent or repair the power supply problem. As MattL, in an earlier post, observed: the power supply board is a relatively simple snap-in module. I confirmed that by pulling the back of my set early this week. A quick examination revealed a couple of diodes with warped and sagging cases and capacitors that didn't match the light blue/gold color configurations of the upgraded ones. The board on my set contains two gray capacitors with maroon and gold bands and a third capacitor right in the middle of the board with a sky blue case and yellow/silver bands. I wouldn't have a clue as to which capacitors, if any of them, should be replaced or if I could solder them properly. Purchasing the complete board takes the guesswork out of the equation.


What's everyone else think? I would welcome feedback from the venerable DrJoe or Ratman if they still monitor this thread. What I'm trying to do is keep the superior picture of this RCA around for two or three more years until 1080P plasmas or the legally-encumbered SED technology present a better picture (and affordable price) than I'm currently enjoying with my 38310.


As soon as the board arrives from Sears, by the way, I'll post the Sears part number and any significant developments during the installation process to this thread.


My set, incidentally, shows 52,000 plus on the odometer. I estimate a total of about 11,000 hours of actual use since I fired it up exactly six years ago this month. Major inputs are a Comcast (Motorola 3416) HD DVR and an LG LDA-511

DVD player modified(hacked) to produce upscaled 1080I through the component output.


----------



## jwheeler

Please do keep us informed and especially the part number of the board. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Ratman

Thanks for the input. IMO... a $100 is well worth the peace of mind to have an easily replaced DM1 power supply board on hand.


But I do have to note:

1) The color of the caps that you've described on you F38310 do not seem to be "original".

The caps that fail on the DM1 PS board have a "brown" case. Perhaps your set already have upgraded caps installed before you purchased it. That could possibly explain why your set has not experienced the "problem" after all this time. It _shouldn't_ have lasted this long.

2) You didn't state whether you use the TV's internal tuner. If you don't or never did, perhaps that's a reason. OTOH, hook up your cable or an antenna to check. You may find it's already dead!









3) And lastly... if you never intend to use the TV's internal tuner, then you may want to consider returning the part for a refund since a DM-1 PS failure only affects the internal tuner and not any video inputs. So, you can still use the component and other inputs.


So, based on my assumptions, the PS you have as a "spare" is the PS board for the DM-1 module. It is not a PS board for the main chassis (DTV306), which would present itself as a "complete" failure to the set.


----------



## RCA don

JS: I'll definitely post the part number shortly after I receive the board, along with the Sears 800 number used to start the order.


Ratman: a belated thanks for all of the valuable insights and information you've generated on the 38310 over the months and years. You've got me going on your response to my part descriptions. let's see if you can confirm that: 1. the power supply module that usually contains the underated caps and diodes is the DM-1 power supply module. That's the one I described and ordered from Sears. 2. As you face the rear of the set with the back cover removed, the power supply module I ordered is situated just to the left of the DM-1 tuner module. It's the tall aluminum box on the left (still facing the set from the rear). Right on both counts?

Or, heaven forbid, wrong?


Yes, I've used the internal tuners sparingly over the years. Tuner A, which I have connected to an indoor amplified Terk HD antenna, produces the strongest signals and best HD I get. Used it for a couple of hours just last Sunday. Tuner B has a straight Comcast cable feed connected (No cable box connection) that generates all of the basic Comcast SD channels. I used it less that two weeks ago for 1/2 hour or so while my DVR was recording two programs. HD problem. Haven't used the Direct VT tuner for over four years. It just sort of sits there taking up space.


Here's the twenty (or in my case $102) dollar question: Is the module I've just described and ordered the one that solves the bad caps/diodes issue?


I probably won't post again until after I receive and install the module.


----------



## Ratman

Yes that's correct. A "smallish" board about 5 sq. inches. And... just to clarify. The diodes are not underrated. Only the caps. The issue is a cascading effect that when the caps DO fail, that causes the diodes to crap out.


Yes, it sound's as if you have the right board.


But I have ask...


You stated, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." So, why are you installing the new board?

If the set works, leave it be! Keep the board if/when you need it.


As I stated, I _think_ you already have the upgraded caps. So, why mess around? IMO... either keep the board as a "spare" or return it for a refund. But I personally wouldn't be inside a TV that's working properly. Just my $.02


----------



## Drastic

Hey RCA Don..

How did you order the power supply without the part number?


Thanks


Drastic


----------



## RCA don

two days after I ordered it from Sears, UPS left the module at my side door sometime this morning(Friday Mar. 30) Nice work Sears and UPS!


J Wheeler and anyone else interested in the part number and related information:


RCA Part Number: 46-356712-3


Sears Parts/Service tele.# 1-800-469-4663


Cost: $80.90 plus UPS ground shipping. Total: $102


Hey Drastic: I called, specified parts order, gave the first rep I talked to the model number of my TV and described the module; he bounced me to a lady at a help desk with access to diagrams (probably schematics) who identified the power supply "card" and completed the order. Everything in life should be that simple.


Senor Ratman: the new module is identical in every way to the one curently in place in my TV, right down to the grey capacitors I described. But it's not about 5" square as you estimated in an earlier post. The board is 12" long x 3-1/2" wide. I suspect your estimated dimensions refer to the rear portion of the board, separted from the front portion by a z-shaped steel partition. The back section contains, among other components, two black-case diodes and a squat rubber cylinder that I guess is a diode as well. The two grey capacitors in that back section have gold, maroon and silver bands. Both are exactly 1/2" long, have leads bent at right angles to the case and pressed into the board, placing the capacitors about 1/2" above the surface of the board. *My single key question to you: Does that agree with the physical size and positioning of the underrated caps?*

I'm just trying to make certain that I've been staring at the right capacitors. Way up at the other end of this 12" board, there are two smaller brown capacitors (3/8" long) pressed right into the surface of the board and adjacent to a glass fuse. I hope those aren't the problem caps.


Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. Other than a little bit of dust, the caps, diodes and fuses et al on my old board seem to be in the same pristine condition as those on the brand new board. Unless I hear from someone that a future failure in the power supply card could take out the DM1 tuner module to which it's attached. I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.


In any event, I hope the part number and ordering information at the beginning of this post helps anybody and everybody who's actually trying to revive their 38310.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whatever the response, the new module is identical to the one that's currently working like a charm inside my 38310. ,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> I'm just going to keep my new power supply card on hand to serve as a quick fix to any failure that might occur down the line.




So, as I stated, your DM1 board has already been uprgraded.


----------



## SDO

My 38310 is DOA - no fans, no lights, nothing. It sounds like I need to check the main power supply board (DTV306), according to Ratman. Is there a service bulletin or manual that I could get my hands on to help troubleshoot the problem? Is it possible that replacing the infamous caps and diodes would get this set back in service? Any direction anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## RCA don

SDO:

Have to make this quick since I have to start work at the local library at noon. Check my posts about the board I bought from Sears as well as Ratman's knowledgable responses to them. The back of that board is the DM1 power supply. I was just into determining what function the front section of that board served. It just might be main power supply module.

There's a glass fuse in the top left hand corner of the board as you look down on it from the rear of the set.If yours is blown, It could be the problem. Taking a look could help and it sure won't hurt unless you stick you hand in the back of the set with the power cord still attached. I'm gone. Good luck.


My suspicions about the front of the power supply board were wrong. The front is AC input for the tuner module; the back is DC output to the tuner module. I just ordered (4/2) the service manual for the 38310. It's about forty bucks including shipping for the CD version(that's what I ordered); the printed version is about $60. You can order either one at: thomsonnetwork(dot)com (It's a Thomson servicing dealer website but I had on trouble ordering and confirming the CD. Good luck. Post an update when you get a chance. I had to the web address in irrregular form because of AVS Forum restrictions.


----------



## chrpai

I recently added a DirecTV HR20 to my F38310. It's workable, but not perfect. If I use the DirecTV & TV Power ON button, both devices do in fact come on but the TV reacts as if I sent it the TV power on and switches to Channel 0 ( I have not ATSC presets ). I then have to hit the Input button 5 times to get it to switch to Component Input.


If I assign an RCA DVD code to AV1 and use the AV1 power button, It'll turn on in Component Video mode ( the input I have assigned to the DVD device ).


Anyone know how to configure the remote in a better way?


----------



## chrpai

Ever since I moved last week my F38310 is behaving a little worse then it was before. A small horizontal darkened bar scrolls vertically from the bottom of the screen to the top. It takes about 10-20 seconds to get to the top and start over. It looks a little bit like when you film a TV and play it back.


Any ideas on what to look for to try to resolve this minor annoying issue? It's very subtle, but noticable.


----------



## hayt

I've been living with the vertical scrolling line for over 3 years now. My beast has survived several moves up and down the east coast. So, I guess I'm trying to say, the line is annoying, but in my case at least, it hasn't progressed or led to other problems. (knock on wood!)


----------



## Ratman

sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.


----------



## SDO

Thanks for the info, RCA don! I will definitely follow up using the data you have provided, and will let you know how things go. Again, thanks for your help and advice!


SDO


----------



## chrpai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sounds like a "ground loop" to me. Plenty of threads to troubleshoot.



Thanks for putting a name on the problem. I'm off to searching now.... The first question I have is has something gone wrong with my TV or is it just how I have it set up.


For example if I moved the TV back to my old house ( not possible; just curious ) and hooked everything up the way it was, would the problem go away, or would it stay because something has broken ( changed ) inside the TV itself...


----------



## chrpai

My first google hits makes me think it's the former and not the latter. But I'm not sure because I know when the XBOX and HR20-100 is OFF ( but not unplugged ) I still see the problem. I'll try unplugging everything but power and see if it goes away.


I wonder if the high voltage, high tower electrical transmittion lines a half a block away from my house could be inducing the 60hz noise..... My Panasonic CT-26WX15 in the bedroom doesn't seem to have the problem and it's a tube TV also...


----------



## chrpai

I unplugged and removed every component except for the AC power cable from the wall ( removed the surge supresser also ) to the RCA F38310. The visual effect remains; I can see it when the on screen menu in 4:3 with grey bars.



Does this still sound like a ground loop? If so, do I need to consider some kind of power filter/isolater? Or does this sound like some other problem with my RCA?


I'll keep googling, but if I need some kind of isolator, I'm not sure what I need to buy. I really don't feel like walking into Best Buy not knowing what I need and get some guy to try to sell me on some stupid monster power conditioner or something that is really expenseive.


----------



## Ratman

Get a heavy duty extention cord and try different power outlet (on a different circuit).


Also... you have "everything" disconneted from the TV right? No external hardware, no connection from cable...


----------



## chrpai

Yes sir! I stripped it down to the absolute min connection... the power cord directly from the wall to the back of the TV. Not only did I unplug all connections but I removed all of the components from the general area to make sure nothing was acting as an antenna or inducing magnetic interference ( like speakers ).


I used an extension cord to try plugging it into the outlet that my other TV is plugged into also. Despite the fact that the TV plugged into that outlet looks fine, it only seemed to make the problem on the RCA even worse. I'm guessing a longer cable and/or a lesser shielded extension cord just picks up more interference? As for moving the TV around the house to try different outlets while only using the shorter cord.... well, it IS an F38310........










My best guess is the transmission lines ( the big tall ones with that rusted look to them ... about 100' away ) is putting off so much RF that my old F38310 just can't handle it.


I'm listening to all suggestions boss.


----------



## Ratman

Try an RF choke (ferrite) on the power cord.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103222&cp


----------



## chrpai

Thanks, will do tonight. I'm not sure why this didn't occur to me. I used to do electronics stuff decards ago.... I guess I've gone soft and have gotten used to just buying components to get the job done instead of coming up with a solution myself.


If the interference goes away after I put the choke on the line ( I'm guessing closer to the TV then the power outlet ... I'll play with it ), I wonder if I'm going to need chokes on any of my other power lines and low voltage path ways.


----------



## chrpai

Well, I managed to pick up a choke during lunch. However when it rains, it pours. I get a call from my wife saying the HR20-100 isn't working. She power cycles the device and the 720P light just comes on. The box is completly unresponsive to her.


More googling to do...


----------



## chrpai

I tried the ferrite choke that I picked up at Frys last night and it didn't really make any difference. I tested the effects of the choke with everything unplugged except for the power cord.


Still, I did watch TV last night and I wasn't bothered by the effect. If I look for it, I can see it though.


I could try moving, rotating the TV to see if I can minimize the effects, but there is really nowhere else downstairs that I could put the TV and I really don't want to carry it upstairs to try it.


I'm wondering if the effect is really magnetic in nature and not RF? Short of creating a makeshift faraday cage, I'm not sure what else I can try.


Any suggestions? Or is it time to live with it or Craigslist it?


----------



## hayt

With all due respect to ratman (he is the real deal!!) I doubt the ghosting line is so easily solved. Like I mentioned, my beast has been up and down the east coast, and the line's been there for years. It is subtle, but not so much if you know it's there. OTOH, with all the known probs of this set, it is something I can live with.


----------



## Ratman

Well... I don't know what to suggest. I have two F38310's and neither have the "symptom(s)". I took a shot...










I can only provide my thoughts based on the problem description, which sounds like a "hum bar"/ground loop (slowly scrolling horizontal line that moves up the screen).


Last shot.... cut all circuit breakers in the home (at the panel) except the circuit to the TV. Also, be sure to "unplug" every other electrical device on that particular circuit that you leave "hot".


----------



## chrpai

I appreciate your insite Ratman. I understand the subtle complexity involved here. I'll see if I can give your final suggestion a try.


Your description really sounds like what I'm seeing, that's for sure.


Until then I put the TV ( with matching stand ) on Craiglist for $400. No bites yet....


----------



## enoree

I have had mine for 4 1/2 years now and it has never skipped a beat.


----------



## hayt

I searched all 20 pages of this thread but didn't see anything like this:

occasional chirping sounds coming from back of set?

It sounds like a bunch of crickets have made a home in my tv!

I've had great luck with this monster so far. It was a floor model, no repairs...

Just 2 (now 3) minor issues: scrolling vertical "ghost" line (present in 4 locations in 3 states!), sort of annoying high pitched squeal (intermittent, usually on very bright screen images), and now this. Any thoughts?


----------



## Ratman

Chirps: perhaps one of the fans? Check for dust buildup and clean/vacuum if possible.

Sqeal: Could be the flyback. Turn down "contast/picture" and see it it helps.

Scolling line: Normally caused by a ground loop.


----------



## locomo

Now that I moved the TV, it's a much better experience, but the fans are way too loud.

If i remember correctly there are two 80 mm fans that are easily accessible. But there is another(s?) thats always on, thats possibly inside the receiver itself. Anyone ever change them out?

Thanks


----------



## Ratman

The two fans can probably be easily changed out/replaced, but the third is in the DM-1 module (Actually a DTC100 receiver) and AFAIK, cannot be easily replaced. OR... if it can, it would probably require a major operation by removing the DM1 and opening it up, which may cause more problems than it's worth.


Best bet is to remove the back cover and check for dust/dirt buildup on the fan blades and enclosure (causing them to become off balance or extra weight). A gentle vacuuming may help quiet them down.


----------



## locomo

Thanks Ratman,

It seems like the receiver fan(s) is the loud one. Any schematics available to cut the power to the unit?

Ideally since I rarely used the ATSC tuner (let alone the D*), I'd like to incorporate a simple switch to turn it off.

Any ideas would be appreciated.


----------



## chrpai

A couple of months ago I posted about a problem that Ratman tried very hard to help me with. Well, I'd kinda just grown to accept the problem and then finally decided that I wanted a bigger 50" TV. To make a long story short, we moved the TV upstairs to the gameroom and bingo, problem gone.


I don't know what it was exactly but it's gone!!


Now to figure out which TV will be next for me. I thought I'd go DLP but I don't like the dark images outside of the direct viewing area. Never thought I would say this... but I think I'm looking for a 50" plasma. I'd consider LCD if I could be sure that black would really be black with no back glow.


So my buget is not unlimited.... Maybe up to $1800 or so. What has other owners of F38310's upgraded to? I really like the PQ on my RCA and I don't want my PQ to step down from what I currently have. Do you think I'd be happy with a 720P LCD/DLP from say 10' viewing distance or do I need to wait for 1080P prices to come down?


I've been seeing 1080P LCD's in the 47", 720P plasma in the 50" and a Hitachi 50" plasma that's 1280x1024 that I can afford. I see mixed opinions on the Hitachi but I'm wondering since the RCA effectively had a resolution of 1280x1024, would that be good choice or should I just save money and go 720p?


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrpai* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A couple of months ago I posted about a problem that Ratman tried very hard to help me with. Well, I'd kinda just grown to accept the problem and then finally decided that I wanted a bigger 50" TV. To make a long story short, we moved the TV upstairs to the gameroom and bingo, problem gone.
> 
> 
> I don't know what it was exactly but it's gone!!
> 
> 
> Now to figure out which TV will be next for me. I thought I'd go DLP but I don't like the dark images outside of the direct viewing area. Never thought I would say this... but I think I'm looking for a 50" plasma. I'd consider LCD if I could be sure that black would really be black with no back glow.
> 
> 
> So my buget is not unlimited.... Maybe up to $1800 or so. What has other owners of F38310's upgraded to? I really like the PQ on my RCA and I don't want my PQ to step down from what I currently have. Do you think I'd be happy with a 720P LCD/DLP from say 10' viewing distance or do I need to wait for 1080P prices to come down?
> 
> 
> I've been seeing 1080P LCD's in the 47", 720P plasma in the 50" and a Hitachi 50" plasma that's 1280x1024 that I can afford. I see mixed opinions on the Hitachi but I'm wondering since the RCA effectively had a resolution of 1280x1024, would that be good choice or should I just save money and go 720p?



Forget lcd is no where near in PQ and has too many flaws and will take time to inprove, on top of that its too much money!!!


i say most tvs currently on cosumer level cost will drop in PQ compared to the f38310 and no tv can match in terms of PQ to crt HOWEVER


the new pioneer pdp-5080 are said to be very close to crt blacks and those 8th gen pio's seem to be the best currently avaiable, that is my next tv after the f38310. its only 720p but 1080p less then 3 months away with say $1500 more

Now if your sitting about 10 ft you wont benefit from 1080p as you need to get between 6ft to 8 ft i belive. on top of that think about it what supports 1080p? only bd/hd disc and ps3/360 not even satelite/cable is 1080p (only 1080i)


if you really want Picture quality as close as our f38310 then get that pioneer pdp- 5080 (not 5070) huge difffrense.... it retails for $3500 but check our forum sponsers they have it for less then $2500 I'D say get it from invision display (forum sponser) hope this helps and if any more Q's go ahead ask


----------



## chrpai

Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.


The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.


----------



## jwheeler

I have to tell you I saw a 50" Samsung plasma at a friends house that I thought looked outstanding compared to my F38310. It may just be that it was bigger but I thought there was more detail. I will say that I am not a fan of the looks of this set especially the blue light in the front but the picture looked great. I see it advertised on dealnews for around $1500.00.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrpai* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.
> 
> 
> The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.


----------



## Urchinn

Man, I have really been trying to figure out a flaw on my F38310 (which I just got used about a week ago). The image with DVDs (which is really all I plan on using it for) is fine EXCEPT for what look like horizontal lines running throughout the image. Stationary lines...about a 100 of them which are more or less noticeable depending on brightness of original image (hard to see in dark scenes, easy in well-lit scenes). I'm using an LG upconverting-over-component dvd player. What would ya'll suggest? Different player? Different input? SVideo? Any and all comments appreciated!


----------



## mcallister

I would try a different player just to see if you have the scan lines still. Than you will at least find out if it's the TV or the DVD player.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrpai* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everything I've read tells me 720P is fine, guess the other side of my brain is having a hard time letting go. I'm 98% there on getting a 720P.
> 
> 
> The pdp-5080 you describe is out side of my price range. Any other suggestions? I'm in the $1500-$2000 range and any more will have my wife's veto since we are also getting alot of other new stuff to go along with the TV.



Trust me bro i too was sketical about the price but when i saw the tv i was blown away!!!! its worth every single penny spend $500 more then your 2gs range and you wont regreat it compare to if you spend $500 less you WILL i guarnteed it\\


i didnt get a chance to take good pics but scratch on what i said about the blacks being as close as crt, THEY are superior !!! go to bestbuy its worth the visit









oh and look at it this way 720p is native for most content and thats the best you can get, on top of that if you are sitting further then 6-8ft then you wont benefit from 1080p and theirs hardly if any support for native 1080p (ps3/x360 hd/bd disc)


here are some pictures from plasma concept

Pioneer 5080HD-1 

Pioneer 5080HD-3 

Pioneer 5080HD-2 

anyone want my F38310?


----------



## Signalseeker

Hello All: Just received word from my wife that our F38310 fried. She turned it on and it made the classic chirpping noises and went dead, and apparently something burned because she can smell smoke. Interesting the chirpping would not stop until she unplugged it. Has played fine 6 years until now. I know I'm shooting in the dark by asking but ... as anyone experienced this issue and if so what might the issue be? I have a service guy who knows these sets pretty well he stated however the parts may or may not be available. Is it worth spending the $100 for a diagnostic?


thank you


CJ


----------



## Matt L

Odds are it's the power supply. When mine went out I couldn't turn the set off so I pulled the plug, After that it would not power up. The power module is/was available for about $100. Sears did my repair, but all that was involved was swapping out the module. No adjustments needed. I'd opt for a new power module over paying the service guy, about the same cost. If that doesn't fix it odds are it will be something much more expensive and not worth fixing. I've read, perhaps here that the tuner module, if available, ran over $6oo.


Good luck and post your decision, I'm curious. I like my set a lot though I'm hungry for a much larger display, and hope to move the 38310 to my bedroom.


----------



## Signalseeker

Thank you Matt: Well the verdict is in ....... the tech said the power block failed and is arcing. What is a power block? He said it is on the right hand side I should have asked right hand side from the front or the back! He actually bought with him a spare power board I assume for the DM-1 module, I was surprised he had one. So at this point the infamous capacitor failure is not the problem. The part is available but about $400 to do the job. He is not sure if anything else is wrong he can not tell w/o fixing this problem first. This may be the end. Anyone need an F38310 for parts? Any suggestions? I checked out the new Sony, Toshiba and Samsung 1080p LCD's they play pretty good but not like the CRT.


----------



## tubesguy

Signalseeker and Matt:


Wierd timing: Mine went out last night. Turned itself off, and then cycled on and off, by the sound of it, until I unplugged it. When I plugged it back in, same cycling until I just pulled the plug and gave up on it. I'd love to fix it, if anyone has a source for parts. I'll be sorry to see it go if I can't do the repair or part replacement. - Pat


----------



## Matt L

Info you may need is from RCA don in post #555.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Signalseeker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Matt: Well the verdict is in ....... the tech said the power block failed and is arcing. What is a power block? He said it is on the right hand side I should have asked right hand side from the front or the back! He actually bought with him a spare power board I assume for the DM-1 module, I was surprised he had one. So at this point the infamous capacitor failure is not the problem. The part is available but about $400 to do the job. He is not sure if anything else is wrong he can not tell w/o fixing this problem first. This may be the end. Anyone need an F38310 for parts? Any suggestions? I checked out the new Sony, Toshiba and Samsung 1080p LCD's they play pretty good but not like the CRT.




dont want to sound like a prick but is everyone ignoring my post???? signalseeker look up my post where theirs pictures, that is far the best plasma or for the matter of any consumer priced tv is probly the best one!!!! this goes for everyone on this thread this plasma seemed to be at our F38310 if not better and 1080p model coming in less then 2 months


----------



## tubesguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Info you may need is from RCA don in post #555.




Hi Matt -


I googled that part number and no dice. Also checked for it or other 38310 parts on the Sears site, and they appear to have only the owner's manual and remote. Also checked MCM Electronics, who are an RCA parts purveyor, and no dice. I'm thinking maybe these parts are no longer available from stock.


I'll continue checking for sources, but I suppose the most important thing is to push the beast out away from the wall and get the back off of it. Then I can search for blown parts and maybe do a board-level repair rather than replacement.


Thanks - Pat


PS - I found a good site (PartsStore.com) and they had about 900 parts listed for these TVs. I've kind of concluded that "46-356712-3" is a Sears inventory number, and not an RCA part number. PartsStore had a number of parts listed with the single word description: "Circuit" (not ICs) and I wasn't able to get any other information on them without a service manual.


----------



## gus738

tubesguy and everyone else am i a ghost lol ? atlest you guys are aware of my post?

http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/images/PIO-5080HD-1.JPG


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dont want to sound like a prick but is everyone ignoring my post????



gus728.... neither do I. But! This is a thread for the F38310.


----------



## gus738

i know it is and it consider off topic but if you read earlier post theirs 2 guys that indicated that what tv should buy since the f38310 died and the other also had a simlir issue, but they didnt aknowledge that and thats why i wanted to state it!


----------



## Signalseeker

Gus I've been busy and this is the first chance I had to read the threads. Thank you for the info.


----------



## Signalseeker

Ratman, Tubesguy and MattL: I Texted Dr. Joe on HDTVoice.com he said he has no idea what might be wrong and said he gave up on the big beast a while back ago. He mentioned it probably ain't worth fixing. Ratman he said you might have an idea or an opinion on whether or not it's worth fixing.


Tubesguy thanx for the link I will check that site out for a "power block".


Take Care.


CJ


----------



## Ratman

NO offense intended to Dr. Joe in any way, shape or form! He has been super with help everyone and very much to me over the years.


His points are well taken, but I need to say that he has been run through the grinder with the inherent problems with the F38310. With that, I can agree and disagree with no bias.


The bottom line is (that when it works) it's a wonderful TV. I've had mine since 01/2002 and can't be happier. I also was fortunate enough to purchase a used one locally from a forum member at HDTVoice.com for my son, which looks great.


So I guess what I'm saying is... how much is it worth it to you and how reliable is your RCA tech? IMO... if you're willing to take a $400 chance, go for it.


It's a tough call...


----------



## RCA don

signalseeker: I don't know where you stand on the repair status of your 38310 but..I took a good look through my service manual(on CD) and didn't find one mention of a "power block."

Here's a semi-educated guess: the tech is actually referring to the deflection power supply.

It's a square board mounted on the right side of the chassis as you face it from the rear. The deflection power supply contains a high voltage diode (CR14710) that the manual also identifies as a safety critical part. Dr. Joe or Joe Floyd, two early contributors to this thread, both encountered problems with this diode and one of them cited that "It goes up in flames when it fails." That could be what your service tech describes as "arcing." If your problem is, in fact, confinded to that single diode and the tech agrees, it just might drive the repair estimate downward. (one can only hope, right?)

in any event, hope you can restore operation of this great set at an affordable price. Happy to report that mine is problem-free after about 6-1/2 years and about 9,000 hours of in-use time. Have yet to set my eyes on a plasma or anything else that matches it for overall picture quality (excluding the smaller but better Sony 960/970).


Let me know if the above diode turns out to to be the culprit and, if so, how many hours(a-proximately) it took to make the thing self-destruct. Hell, gotta have something to worry about while I try to squeeze another two-to-three years of great HD performance out of mine.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Signalseeker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gus I've been busy and this is the first chance I had to read the threads. Thank you for the info.




lol i know signalseeker i meant for matt and tubes guy though, rca don i say yep crt tube is great quality if not the best currently avaiable and good luck so your rca doesnt die but i saw the pioneer PDP-5080 a 50'' 720p model and it looked amazing blacks were very very deep i'd say about more "pure" and "deeper" then our crts , and this is putting our crt at the preset settings that turns dark


----------



## Matt L




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tubesguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Matt -
> 
> 
> I googled that part number and no dice. Also checked for it or other 38310 parts on the Sears site, and they appear to have only the owner's manual and remote. Also checked MCM Electronics, who are an RCA parts purveyor, and no dice. I'm thinking maybe these parts are no longer available from stock.
> 
> 
> I'll continue checking for sources, but I suppose the most important thing is to push the beast out away from the wall and get the back off of it. Then I can search for blown parts and maybe do a board-level repair rather than replacement.
> 
> 
> Thanks - Pat
> 
> 
> PS - I found a good site (PartsStore.com) and they had about 900 parts listed for these TVs. I've kind of concluded that "46-356712-3" is a Sears inventory number, and not an RCA part number. PartsStore had a number of parts listed with the single word description: "Circuit" (not ICs) and I wasn't able to get any other information on them without a service manual.



Did you call Sears?


I vaguely recall talk of a service manual floating around the internet at some point, maybe someone can track it down, or - I might be wrong...


BTW, has anyone tried:

http://www.samswebsite.com/photofact/pf_search.asp 


I didn't want to crawl around and find all the numbers, but RCA F38310 did not show any hits. Maybe it's listed by the other model name/number.



Ok, I guess I'll just keep adding on to this. I found the part number for the power supply from Sears. On my receipt is:


57 528 46-356712-3 01


Hope some of this helps....


----------



## RCA don

Signalseeker: Matt L is right. You have to call Sears Parts& Service to determine if 38310 circuit boards or individual diodes, capacitors, etc. are available. The Sears website isn't the place to get detailed parts information. From this thread and other on the forum, I also get the impression that Sears service delivers uniformly good and reasonably priced results. I believe that I know the derivation of your service tech's "power block" description as well. In addition to schematics, service manuals contain block diagrams of the TV's components. So a power supply board in a block diagram becomes a "power block."


The deflection power supply board, by the way, is a nearly-square component where the DM-1 power supply module is a long rectangle (approx. 10"x4"). No capable service tech would ever confuse one for the other You might also benefit from posts #182 and 187 way, way back(page 7) in this thread. In them, Dr. Joe and Joe Floyd both describe their problem with the high voltage diode(CR14710) in the deflection power supply. The symptoms they identify appear similiar to yours.


A message for Gus while I'm editing this post: Hey Gus: I agree with your assessment of the Pioneer plasmas. I'd personally put Panasonic in the running as a very close second.

But there's another set that also produces incredibly deep blacks, provides dual ATSC tuners and more. Let's see, I think it's called the RCA 38310. If you're bound and determined to part with $3,000 or so to travel to plasmaland, more power to you. Doesn't the idea of earmarking $3-400 for possible repairs and enjoying the great HD set you already have for a few more years have nearly equal appeal? Think where plasma might be in terms of quality and afordability by that time. How about it, GUS?


----------



## tubesguy

Hi RCA don-


It sounds as if you have the manual, and have done some research in it. Does the manual specify what type of diode that is, and its current and voltage ratings? If I find that CR14710 is the problem, I may just be able to order a replacement diode from Digikey or some similar source, given an indication of the specs. Thanks for the posts on this - Pat


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tubesguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi RCA don-
> 
> 
> It sounds as if you have the manual, and have done some research in it. Does the manual specify what type of diode that is, and its current and voltage ratings? If I find that CR14710 is the problem, I may just be able to order a replacement diode from Digikey or some similar source, given an indication of the specs. Thanks for the posts on this - Pat



Yep, I do have the manual on CD. It lists the high voltage diode simply as: diode, stock number: 243846, position: CR14710 on Deflection-P/S. That's the deflection power supply board. An insert at the top of the list reads: "Warning! This is a Safety Critical Part." The diode is soldered right to the board. I'd strongly suggest you call Sears parts first to determine availability and price of both the diode and the entire board (the board stock # appears to be 1553100B). Reason: the diode failure could possibly have a cascade effect on other components of the power supply board. I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.


----------



## tubesguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.



Trust me, schematic diagrams make a lot more sense.










Appreciate the help. I found the diode on the PartsStore site, but not the board. They list what I'd guess are many, if not all, of the parts for these things, but all of the parts numbers are six-digit numbers. I'll try to get the back off of the TV and look early next week. Goin' fishin' this weekend.


----------



## TVWatcher702

Well, I have had my TV over 5 years now and have loved it from the start. About a week ago I noticed a buzzing sound from the back of the TV and thought that it was about to go. Sure enough, today I had some troubles. The TV picture was on and destorted but no one turned power on. I tried to turn it off with the remote and power button on top but nothing. I unplugged it and then couldn't get the tv to turn on. I unplugged, and replugged with no luck. When it is plugged in there is a buzzing sound coming from the back of the TV. No green power light, no picture, nothing, just the buzzing. After taking the back cover off the TV I narrowed the buzzing sound to the circuit board on the L/H side of the TV when facing the back of the TV. The board is just left of the box with the coax antenna hook-ups. It has 2 wires, white and black going to it so I think it is a power supply board but i am unsure. Any thoughts as to what might be the fix? I have read almost all the other posts in here and when the TV went out on someone else, they had the power light and no picture. I don't have the power light so I think this is different from some of the others, but open to any thoughts at all. I have had nothing done to the TV since I bought it in Feb 2002. I am good with electronics and can change out soldered parts but wouldn't mind just changing the board cause I am not sure where specificly the sound is from or even if I am in the right area for the problem Any help would be great...


Steve,

Las Vegas, NV


----------



## RCA don

There's only one circuit board in the position you describe. It's the much-written-about DM-1 power supply module. See my post #555 in this thread for ordering information through Sears parts. The buzzing you hear could be emanating from the transformer situated near the middle of the board. It's a snap-out;snap-in part replacement with no soldering required. Just make certain to place the three ribbon cable connectors connecting the module to the DM-1 tuner back in their correct positions on the new board. For about $100 including shipping, it could be a quick, comparatively low cost solution to your problem. If not, you're only out $100 and you can start shopping Pioneer plasmas with Gus.


----------



## TVWatcher702

Thanks for the info. This transformer, I am sure it is the white cylinder type part with a black square around it. Located about in the middle of the board and labled T14100. It isn't snap in from what I can tell, thats why I am making sure we are talking the right part. Is it possible to get a part number for this piece and I can just solder in a new one. I don't have the service manuals so I am unsure of the ordering part nnumber. And if it doesn't work out, don't think I would go the plasma route. I like the Sony 55 SXRD. Thanks again


Steve

Las Vegas NV


----------



## RCA don

Remember: identifying the transformer as the source of a buzzing sound is nothing more than a guess on my part. Even if my guess is right, one or more failed components on the power board are causing the transformer to hum or buzz. Play it safe and thorough, replace the entire power supply board. Remember: that buzzing sound is just one of the problems you're experiencing. The thing won't turn off! A malfunctioning transformer is almost certainly not the sole cause of that condition. If you insist, I can as least extract the position

number(CRXXXXX) for the transformer from my service manual and maybe the part number as well. Let me know. But I still encourage you to replace the entire board.


The part you described and the position number(T14100) confirm that it's the transformer. Thomson(RCA) part # is 15312120. The manual also lists a Stock # 249012. Careful: both the DM-1 and deflection power supplies show a transformer with the same symbol(T14110) but different stock numbers.I'd still go with an entire DM-1 power supply replacement but it's your TV, your money and your call.


----------



## donovanhebard

hi all,


new to the forum. i purchased my F38310 in 2001 as a refurb unit. have had zero problems with it and absolutely love the thing.


thinking about getting rid of it for a few reasons, possibly to replace with a larger, LCD set (was looking at some of the 1080p Samsungs).


is there any market for my F38310 used? god knows i would never attempt to ship the beast, but as i live in Los Angeles i wondered if this set would be worth trying to sell locally? any ideas on what i could get for it?


thanks in advance for all replies, advice, etc!


-d


----------



## Ratman

IMO... try to sell it locally for $300-$400 (if you're lucky).


For the same reason(s) you want to upgrade, most individuals don't want a bulky 216 lb. TV (not matter the picture quality).


----------



## Signalseeker

All sorry for being remiss in my response. Don thanx for the detailed info on the part #. I have the TV sitting in my garage and will pull the cover off tonight and take a look and see if anything in that lower right hand area looks burnt. I will check with sears to see if the part is available. I have in the mean time, sorry to admit in this forum, purchased the Toshiba 42HL167.... will you still allow me to post here? It plays good and I can hang it on the wall.


Thanks everyone.


----------



## RCA don

Whadusay, Ratman? Should we let signalseeker post here for thirty days or so just to pick his brain about his impressions of his new Toshiba? Signalseeker: good to hear that you haven't given up on your FA38310, not completely anyway. I did happen upon a description of a power supply problem with symptoms identical to yours (Go to the plasma flat panel display section of this forum, find the Vizio 42 thread and search that thread for "power supply problems" Those sets have come to be known as "poppers" because the capacitors on the power supply board fail, sometimes with an audible "pop". The failure is also accompanied by a humming (sound familiar?) or buzzing sound. The conclusion? The capacitors on your DM-1 power supply board have failed and cause the transformer to buzz for awhile. Want a great spare HDTV? Replace your RCA's power supply board. Please do fill us in on a comparison of your new Toshiba with your F38310's performance before it died. At work. Gotta go.


----------



## Ratman

Nah... keep Toshiba talk in a Toshiba thread. Keep F38310 talk in this thread.


By all means though, keep us updated as to what you do or find out about the F38310 and it's disposition.


----------



## SLUDGE

Hey


I owned this TV since 2002. Floor model at CC ($1200 plus $100 for matching stand). Bought extended warranty which ends in 11/07. Only one repair, diode replaced (did i spell this right).


I used to use the built in receiver but upgraded to HR10-250. I love the HD. Standard looks great too except for non-HD baseball/football games. The standard games look blurry compared to the HD games on the baseball and football tickets.


I am hoping this set last for a long time. The longer this set lasts the better/cheaper my next set will be.


But I have recently thought about moving this set out of the livingroom and into a den. Those new 52" LCD's got me thinking? Has anyone else moved this TV into another room to get a plasma or lcd?




still love the set


----------



## eddieras

sounds like me-- got the same deal at cc on a floor model- but my dilemma has been whether to keep going on the warranty. i'm up this october. i got the set in 02 also.

pix is outstanding -


----------



## SLUDGE

I received the letter from CC about extending the warranty. $164 for one year? I extended 2 years ago for 260 (have not needed any repairs). I considered it a safety net. Now, is it worth 164 for an additional year?


It would guarantee that for $164 we would temporarily hold off buying a new LCD/Plasma until late 2008. The money spent now should pay off as the TV should be better, bigger, cheaper in 2008.


We have several months to decide. Let me know if you extend it.


----------



## SLUDGE

I decided not to extend. I'll take my chances and see how long it will last. I have several older crt tv's that all well over 10 years old.


----------



## JC7727

Hey, I have the PS38000 for 5+ years now. I bought it when it came out, and it has been running strong everyday. Now it's mainly used for the x360. I was thinking about getting it recalibrated, what settings is everyone running? How did you guys calibrate the D*TV since its built in.


----------



## SLUDGE

I picked up a HR10-250 HD DVR receiver from DTV.I hooked it up to the component inputs. The TV is 10 times better now with a HD DVR.


----------



## UncD2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SLUDGE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up a HR10-250 HD DVR receiver from DTV.I hooked it up to the component inputs. The TV is 10 times better now with a HD DVR.



I couldn't agree more. This will be true of any HDTV, and the HR20 w/5LNB dish will do even better when the new HD channels come out in the fall.


----------



## Matt L

A lot of your comments got me thinking. I've looked at a lot of LCD and Plasma displays in the last week or two ( shopping for someone else...) and they all look sharper and crisper then my f38310. Many comments here indicate the great picture quality of the RCA, I'm wondering if it's time for a service call.


I bought a 1 year service contract last year when my power supply went out, got about a month left on it. Just afraid they might mess it up if they went to tweak it.


----------



## JC7727

what settings are you running?


----------



## Matt L

I did the setup using AVIA, that's all I have available. The bulk of what I watch is OTA so it should be pretty good (except for the ones running sub channels...)


I recorded the old HDNET test pattern a year or two ago and I can't see the higher end detail, not sure if it's Directv's problem or mine...


----------



## SLUDGE

When I watch fox sports the ticker on the bottom of the screen is cut off by the bottom of the screen. How can I adjust the picture size. I also dont stretch the 4:3 shows and have the black bars on the side. I dont like the stretch look.


----------



## Ratman

get into service menu...

Check post#61 for a guideline.

Or other info from the other ~600 post in this thread alone.


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, I do have the manual on CD. It lists the high voltage diode simply as: diode, stock number: 243846, position: CR14710 on Deflection-P/S. That's the deflection power supply board. An insert at the top of the list reads: "Warning! This is a Safety Critical Part." The diode is soldered right to the board. I'd strongly suggest you call Sears parts first to determine availability and price of both the diode and the entire board (the board stock # appears to be 1553100B). Reason: the diode failure could possibly have a cascade effect on other components of the power supply board. I suspect that the current and voltage ratings just be be part of the circuit diagram symbology but I'm not up on them. I'm a DiVinci code kind of guy.



My JX-4 failed this past weekend. I could smell it. The picture was still up, but started to whack out. I quickly turned the set off. I came back to this thread to see what what happening with this set. In post 182, JoeFloyd has a jpeg file showing the CR14710 failure on the Deflection P/S. That is exactly the failure I had.


I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with fixing this. I could not see any verification in this thread that it is fixable. It looks like JoeFloyd replaced the diode and had a repeat failure after 2 months. I do not wish to part with the image this set gives. 1700 volts is awful close to the 2k breakdown of this diode and given the pattern of this failure, it seems to be a design issue. I'm comfortable with soldering in the replacement diode, but I'm afraid I will need a service manual to try to understand the disassembly/assembly process. What a rats nest. But I am ready and willing to give it a try. If anyone has words of wisdom for me I would appreciate it. Thanks!


Don


----------



## SLUDGE

I was hoping for a simple solution. I dont know how or want to go into the service menu.


thanks anyway brother


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donyoop* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My JX-4 failed this past weekend. I could smell it. The picture was still up, but started to whack out. I quickly turned the set off. I came back to this thread to see what what happening with this set. In post 182, JoeFloyd has a jpeg file showing the CR14710 failure on the Deflection P/S. That is exactly the failure I had.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with fixing this. I could not see any verification in this thread that it is fixable. It looks like JoeFloyd replaced the diode and had a repeat failure after 2 months. I do not wish to part with the image this set gives. 1700 volts is awful close to the 2k breakdown of this diode and given the pattern of this failure, it seems to be a design issue. I'm comfortable with soldering in the replacement diode, but I'm afraid I will need a service manual to try to understand the disassembly/assembly process. What a rats nest. But I am ready and willing to give it a try. If anyone has words of wisdom for me I would appreciate it. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Don



To get the diode or the entire deflection P/S board, call the Sears parts and service center. The yellow pages or information should have the appropriate number for your area. Yeah, the service manual on CD would help. It has a list of reasonably simple steps for removing the deflection P/S.It doesn't appear as though you can remove and replace the diode without removing the board from the set. You can order the CD service manual through the Thomson electronics service website for about fifty dollars. I lost track of the web address but you should be able to narrow it down by entering "Thomson Electronics Service" on one of the search engines. Good luck. How many on-time hours (approx.) on your set when the diode failed by the way?


----------



## RCA don

Sludge:


Here's a suggestion that led to a highly satisfactory picture output (by my standards, anyway). Open the "picture settings" with your remote and make the following adjustments:


Contrast-bump it up to about 75% on the scale

Color-set it at 50%-right in the middle of the scale

Tint-same setting as Color

Black Level-set it right at 50%

Picture(?)- blow the fine tuning away or set it just one notch above 0%. All it does is make the picture a little grainey by boosting the contrast without boosting the brightness.


Try these settings and let us know if you're satisfied with the results.


----------



## JC7727

how about color warmth


----------



## SLUDGE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sludge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Contrast-bump it up to about 75% on the scale
> 
> Color-set it at 50%-right in the middle of the scale
> 
> Tint-same setting as Color
> 
> Black Level-set it right at 50%
> 
> Picture(?)- blow the fine tuning away or set it just one notch above 0%. All it does is make the picture a little grainey by boosting the contrast without boosting the brightness.
> 
> 
> Try these settings and let us know if you're satisfied with the results.




Picture (?) I have Sharpness as my last option. Is this the same as Picture? I placed it at 1 and it looks great. All of the settings you had listed is where I had them except for sharpness.I had it at 60%.


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To get the diode or the entire deflection P/S board, call the Sears parts and service center. The yellow pages or information should have the appropriate number for your area. Yeah, the service manual on CD would help. It has a list of reasonably simple steps for removing the deflection P/S.It doesn't appear as though you can remove and replace the diode without removing the board from the set. You can order the CD service manual through the Thomson electronics service website for about fifty dollars. I lost track of the web address but you should be able to narrow it down by entering "Thomson Electronics Service" on one of the search engines. Good luck. How many on-time hours (approx.) on your set when the diode failed by the way?



Thanks, RCA don. I'm not sure how much on time is on the set. Except for power failure times, it has been plugged in continuously since Dec. 2001. I have put a lot of hours on this set. No failures until now. It seemed like this CR14710 failure is a soft failure in that it appears to be just a protection diode (albeit a critical high voltage one) and may just breakdown reverse bias after so many years of being exposed to 1700 volts. However, it appears that JoeFloyd had a contributing cause to the diode failure in that he had a repeat failure. I ordered the manual last night from Thomsen. Once I can see the schematic, then I hope to be able to figure out if I need to replace anything more than just the diode. I will then order the parts and have at it. Even if I don't succeed, this will be a fun little project.


Don


----------



## RCA don

Yeah, I meant the sharpness setting not the "Picture" setting. Just haven't felt a need or desire to change any of the settings for quite some time now. As for color warmth, I keep mine at normal, sometimes switching to warm to make the most of a really lush and rich DVD picture such as " A Walk in the Clouds." Donyoop: good to hear that the service CD is on the way. Post the procedure and results if you decide to go ahead with the diode replacement.


----------



## mjfoxtrot

This is my first post, which reflects how few problems I've had since getting my F38310 nearly six years ago. But I've had a nagging problem that doesn't seem to have cropped up for any other user, or at least, not that I can find mentioned on this board.


Here it is: I recently got a Tivo/DirecTV HR10-250 high def PVR and hooked it up to the component input of the F38310. The resulting picture for high def channels is superb, and standard definition is OK. BUT . . . inexplicably and without any apparent trigger, the screen goes haywire and about half the viewable area (bottom half) gets overrun by horizontal, thick-banded multicolored lines stretching from left to right across the screen. They occupy the screen for anywhere from a second to 30 seconds, then disappear and all is well again. I see this problem manifest itself three or four times a day. It happens ONLY on the component input, and I checked the HR10-250 on another TV and it works fine.


More information that could be helpful: I have noticed that the "Rainbow Lines" phenomenon happens when I have the Tivo in 1080i mode. If I get the rainbow lines, and switch the Tivo's output to 480i, the problem will correct itself. BUT . . . occasionally when receiving 480i, the F38310 screen goes blank and gives me the "weak signal" message. The duration of the message is about the same time range (1 to 30 seconds) as the Rainbow bars in 1080i, so I think it's the same issue that's just presenting a different symptom ("weak signal" versus multicolored lines.) Is something wrong with my component connector on the F38310? I've also tried connecting my Sony CX777es DVD changer to the component input, and again I get the dreaded "weak signal" message very frequently while watching a DVD. Also, the colors on the DVDs are washed out.


Can anyone give me any advice? I'd really appreciate it. I love this TV and it has served me well, but I'm worried that this problem may be the deciding point in getting rid of it . . .


----------



## RCA don

Part of your problem could be the number of times you're disconnecting and reconnecting devices to the component input of your TV. you could be slowly but surely loosening (i.e. dsstroying) the connection between the RGB(component) inputs and the video board. If, in fact, you have a video processor in the mix, my point is moot. If not, I'd suggest you acquire one. I replaced my Sony stereo receiver with a clearance-priced($160) Onkyo stereo/video processor with three component inputs and matching optical audio inputs earlier this year.The sound and the video throughput are great and I put an end to crawling behind the TV to swap component cables and wearing down the component input on my TV in the process. Sadly, my guess regarding the deterioration of your component input/video board connection could also explain the "rainbow lines" you describe. A faulty connection could cause to TV to not recognize the incoming signal from the device properly. I've seen lines like the ones you describe when I've set my upscaling DVD player to 720P, a signal that the F38310 doesn't accept. The result? Wavy video noise bars on the screen. To determine if the component video/video board connection could be the cause of your problems, unplug your set, remove the back panel , locate the component input and gently(very gently) press down on the input. Any looseness or movement of the connection indicates a possible, if not probable, source of your problems.


----------



## Ratman

... and even if the set is unplugged, I'd suggest that if you do any poking or prodding on the inside of the chassis, you use a non-conductive tool such as a wooden dowel as opposed to a finger or metal tool. One "oops" could easily become an "aw sh!t"


----------



## mjfoxtrot

Thanks very much for the reply, and your explanation sounds feasible that it could be some kind of deterioration in the component connector on the F38310. However, I would say that it's unlikely that any deterioration came about from wear-and-tear from switching devices . . . I've basically plugged and unplugged component cables on the TV perhaps four or five times in the six years I've owned the TV, so I really don't think that's very much. I really only started using the component inputs in the last year. Maybe they were faulty to begin with?


As for a video processor . . . I have a component video switcher that I just hooked up, and the same signal problems continue to persist. Not sure if a video switcher (it's made by a company called Impact) is what you mean by a video processor, though . . .


The point you made about seeing similar lines on your F38310 when 720P is connected is interesting. I have theorized at times that my problem could be due to my TV being overly-sensitive to what it perceives as incompatible signal variations from a source (i.e., for whatever reason, it sees 1080i as 720P and for a short interval it glitches the picture.) Why it would do that, I have no idea, but the problem seems to suggest that's what's going on.


Just out of curiosity, would the component input on the back of the F38310 be replacable? It seems like that's where the root of the problem likely is . . .


----------



## RCA don

YOU'RE RIGHT. FIVE OR SIX SWITCHES SHOULDN'T HAVE DONE ANY DAMAGE TO THE COMPONENT INPUT/VIDEO BOARD CONNECTION BUT YOU WON'T KNOW UNTIL YOU OR A SERVICE TECH CHECK IT OUT. IF THE CONNECTION IS IN THE PROCESS OF BREAKING DOWN, YOUR OR A SERVICE TECH SHOULD BE ABLE TO RESOLDER THE CONNECTION. THAT'S ANY ASSUMPTION BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE WITH OLDER TV'S. i HAD S-VIDEO AND COAX CONNECTIONS ON ONE OF THOSE TWENTY-YEAR OLD SONY'S RERAIRED AND THE CONNECTIONS WORKED FINE UNTIL THE PICTURE TUBE LOST IT'S BRIGHTNESS THREE OR FOUR YEARS LATER. TO MAKE THE REPAIR, THE VIDEO BOARD WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO BE REMOVED FROM YOUR SET. NOT CERTAIN ABOUT THAT, THOUGH. VIDEO SWITCHER, VIDEO PROCESSOR: YEAH, I USE BOTH TERMS TO DESCRIBE THE SAME DEVICE OR PROCESS.


----------



## Mr. Leary

Hey all. I just picked one of these up off of craigslist for free last night. Of course it doesn't work, but thats where the fun begins.


I got it home, took the back off and tried to power it up. I hit the power button, and I can hear a chirping sound. It seems to be coming from the bottom board that handles all of the high voltage from what I can see. It sounds like the TV is trying to power up the high voltage, but can't. I can hear the sound five times or so, then the TV powers itself off, and back on again and the same thing happens. I would assume a cap or diode to be bad in that particular switching power supply. After about three of these on/off cycles, I noticed the distinct smell of burning electronics, so unplugged it.


I check the usual culprits, the diodes and caps on the power supply board. The caps look good, the cases aren't busted or bulging, and checking the diodes with the diode test of my DVM revealed that they are also seemingly good. The fans also turn on but then off again after the set powers itself off.


Before I just start ripping it apart and checking things, I just wanted to check to see is anyone has had a similar problem.


The TV is a YX5 revision, built in May of 2002. Any help would be appreciated.


[edit] Also, does anyone know where I can get my hands on a service manual. Should I just contact RCA?


----------



## mjfoxtrot

Update on my problem with the component inputs: it appears the F38310 was was designed with a slight offset in order to avoid an interference problem with the tuner. I don't know if this could be partly to blame for my problems, but the symptoms of at least one other F38310 user seem similar to my issues. It's on HDTV Magazine's web site and I found the thread through a google search (AVS Forum won't let me post anything with a web address, or I'd include the URL.)


The writer seems very knowlegable about the design of the F38310, having worked for RCA. Interestingly, he mentions:


"I have long since discarded my schematic diagrams of the 38"

HDTV chassis group, but there is a horizontal frequency adjustment

someplace. (Such adjustment had long since been relegated to factory

controls or software settings since the advent of digital scan control.)"


Does anybody know how I would adjust the horizontal frequency, as he suggests? Is it some internal switch inside the TV or something?


----------



## Mr. Leary

So after some more playing around with the set, I've found that the high voltage does seem to come on, at least some of it. I don't have the equipment necessary to test that high of a voltage but the arm hair static test finds conclusive evidence of a large amount of potential.


My problem sounds similar to post #577, with the cricket-like sounds, although my set does not even power up. Can anyone (Ratman, maybe) please give me a couple of test points on the board so maybe I can test with my meter for proper voltages?


I really need a service manual...


----------



## RCA don

You can order the service manual through the Thomson Electronics Service website. You'll have a choice of CD or paper versions. The paper version is about twenty dollars more than the $50 CD version. I have the CD version and it doesn't contain a really clear depiction of the deflection power supply board in the exploded view. It(the CD version) does contain a clear written description of the deflection power supply removal.


----------



## RCA don

Mr. Leary: this is actually a response to your PM of this P.M. It's a direct copy and paste from the CD Service Manual. Notice the absence of diagrams in regard to the deflection power supply. The printed manual might improve on that situation. Hope it helps.



Deflection/Power Supply (Main) Board Removal

1. Remove Chassis assembly.

2. Remove back and bottom panels.

DTV306

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES

Page 2-2

3. Disconnect ground wires from I/O board and

Deflection/P/S board (near A/C connector).

4. Disconnect J14402.

5. Release wire ties and connectors as needed

(depending on how far board needs to be moved from

frame).

Side Fan Removal

1. Disconnect P41125.

2. Twist one tab on each side of the fan assembly.

3. Pull the top of the fan out first, then the rest of the

assembly to remove.

Top Fan Removal (Fig 1)

1. Disconnect P41126.

2. Remove one screw.

3. Slide fan assembly in the direction shown and

remove.

Fig. 1 - Top Fan Assembly Removal


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donyoop* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, RCA don. I'm not sure how much on time is on the set. Except for power failure times, it has been plugged in continuously since Dec. 2001. I have put a lot of hours on this set. No failures until now. It seemed like this CR14710 failure is a soft failure in that it appears to be just a protection diode (albeit a critical high voltage one) and may just breakdown reverse bias after so many years of being exposed to 1700 volts. However, it appears that JoeFloyd had a contributing cause to the diode failure in that he had a repeat failure. I ordered the manual last night from Thomsen. Once I can see the schematic, then I hope to be able to figure out if I need to replace anything more than just the diode. I will then order the parts and have at it. Even if I don't succeed, this will be a fun little project.
> 
> 
> Don



Well I have my service manual and I was way off base on what the CR14710 is. The CR14710 is one leg of a full wave bridge rectifier to produce the 1700 volts DC. The 1700 volts DC is then modulated with the dynamic focus blanking signal to produce dynamic focus control. It is more than likely voltage spikes which take out the diode. Since my diode was a "soft" failure, getting real hot but still mostly working, I'm still going to try replacing the diode to see what happens. The transformer and caps in that particular circuit ought to be all right. The root cause may be regulation further back and that could be hard to pinpoint. I've ordered a few diodes and still holding out hope, but not as much hope as before. I'll let you know how it goes.


Don


----------



## Mr. Leary

RCA Don,


Thanks for the excerpt from the manual.


Is there any good way to ensure that the picture tube is discharged before I go poking around in this thing? Is there a bleeder resistor that discharges it automatically?


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/11276423
> 
> 
> Mr. Leary: this is actually a response to your PM of this P.M. It's a direct copy and paste from the CD Service Manual. Notice the absence of diagrams in regard to the deflection power supply. The printed manual might improve on that situation. Hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Deflection/Power Supply (Main) Board Removal
> 
> 1. Remove Chassis assembly.
> 
> 2. Remove back and bottom panels.
> 
> DTV306
> 
> DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
> 
> Page 2-2
> 
> 3. Disconnect ground wires from I/O board and
> 
> Deflection/P/S board (near A/C connector).
> 
> 4. Disconnect J14402.
> 
> 5. Release wire ties and connectors as needed
> 
> (depending on how far board needs to be moved from
> 
> frame).
> 
> Side Fan Removal
> 
> 1. Disconnect P41125.
> 
> 2. Twist one tab on each side of the fan assembly.
> 
> 3. Pull the top of the fan out first, then the rest of the
> 
> assembly to remove.
> 
> Top Fan Removal (Fig 1)
> 
> 1. Disconnect P41126.
> 
> 2. Remove one screw.
> 
> 3. Slide fan assembly in the direction shown and
> 
> remove.
> 
> Fig. 1 - Top Fan Assembly Removal



Overall, I was displeased with the non-descript disassembly procedure. The key is to just move the electronics chassis back far enough to clear the yoke of the CRT and flip it 90 degrees and set it down on the DM-1 module. I only had to disconnect 4 connectors. The bottom panel is then accessible. I did get the CR14710 diode and the accompanying 82 pf cap out... My solder sucking skills suck, but I did an OK job here. I'm also replacing two of the other diodes (2 other legs of the bridge) which are adjacent. When my back-ordered parts get here, I can do that. I will report at the end of the week what happens.


Don


----------



## mostau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjfoxtrot* /forum/post/11234331
> 
> 
> This is my first post, which reflects how few problems I've had since getting my F38310 nearly six years ago. But I've had a nagging problem that doesn't seem to have cropped up for any other user, or at least, not that I can find mentioned on this board.
> 
> 
> Here it is: I recently got a Tivo/DirecTV HR10-250 high def PVR and hooked it up to the component input of the F38310. The resulting picture for high def channels is superb, and standard definition is OK. BUT . . . inexplicably and without any apparent trigger, the screen goes haywire and about half the viewable area (bottom half) gets overrun by horizontal, thick-banded multicolored lines stretching from left to right across the screen. They occupy the screen for anywhere from a second to 30 seconds, then disappear and all is well again. I see this problem manifest itself three or four times a day. It happens ONLY on the component input, and I checked the HR10-250 on another TV and it works fine.
> 
> 
> Can anyone give me any advice? I'd really appreciate it. I love this TV and it has served me well, but I'm worried that this problem may be the deciding point in getting rid of it . . .



mjfoxtrot,


I had an HR10-250 on my 62" for the last 2 years and an HR20 on the F38310 for the last year, both working with no problems. But recently I decided to move the HR20 over to the 62" and the HR10 to the F38310.


Well now I have exactly the same issue you are having, but have found that it appears that the aspect ratio setting (using the Ratio button) makes the problem kick in. When I have it set to FULL the problem occurs immediately (seems to happen more during commercials than in normal programming). After I set the aspect ratio to PANEL the problem appears reduced. It's only been a day, but I'll keep you posted.


Update:


I think I've found a config for the HR10-250 that works all the time. Go the the video settings menu and set "TV Aspect Ratio" to 4:3 instead of 16:9, then set "Wide Screen Format" from "Letterbox" to "Pan & Scan". I have yet to reproduce the problem with those settings.


----------



## rttrek

Odd, I've been using an w/ my F38310 for years, always set to 16x9. I toggle the Panel/Full setting as source material dictates. This has always worked perfectly and continues to do so.


----------



## LordSte

Sorry if I'm interrupting, but I made this thread last week and was wondering if I could get some additional advice:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=895385 


Well anyway, here's the jist of it:


> Quote:
> Hey guys, today my 38" RCA went on the fritz. I was watching the exciting display of files being transferred to my Xbox, when the TV looked like it shut off. You know how when you turn off CRT's (usually older ones) the picture converges to a dot or vertical line in the center? Well, it did that along with a clicking noise, which is the same sound it makes when it turns off, but it kept doing it....like every half second. So you see the shutting off converging thing along with a click, then half a second later the same thing, another half second same thing again, etc. The only way I could stop this cycle was by unplugging the unit from the back. After a few minutes, I plugged it back in and it starting doing the same thing right when it got plugged in. I went to the front of the TV and hit the power button. The green light went on, but it kept clicking. I pressed the power button again and the green light went off, but it kept clicking. So I unplugged the unit again and stopped messing around with it.
> 
> 
> So, has anyone else ever encountered this before? I would appreciate any type of help I can get. Thanks.


----------



## mostau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rttrek* /forum/post/11451516
> 
> 
> Odd, I've been using an w/ my F38310 for years, always set to 16x9. I toggle the Panel/Full setting as source material dictates. This has always worked perfectly and continues to do so.



rttrek,


I agree it sounds non-plausible, but I was experiencing the issue and was working around it by switching from 1080i to 480i whenever it happened.


I think it might have something to do with the scaling within the HR10 and the settings I've described seem to turn all that off.


----------



## mostau

mjfoxtrot,


Well I've been testing some more. Although the settings I've described above lessen the problem they do not eliminate it. The problem seems to occur when there is a large amount of black on the screen, or during transitions between commercials and the program. I tried a better component video cable but got the same results










Based on rttrek's post the he has an HR10 and has no issues I decided to focus on the F38310's settings instead of the HR10's. I use the F38310 as a 2nd television in the main room, so I often use it's built-in speakers for audio. However most of the time I have the audio muted so I can listen to the audio from my main display (a 61" JVC).


I noticed that I only seemed to get the video issue when I had the F38310 audio muted. I checked all the F38310 settings and it dawned on me that when I was still using the internal receiver I had the F38310 set to use "CLOSED CAPTIONING" whenever I muted the audio. My theory is that maybe the set was interpreting the transitions as CC material and that possibly was causing the video issue.


Well since I turned off all the CC options on the F38310 I have not experienced the issue. I've even set all the HR10 options back to what they should be (16:9 and panel or full).


It's only been a few hours. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## mostau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LordSte* /forum/post/11455758
> 
> 
> Sorry if I'm interrupting, but I made this thread last week and was wondering if I could get some additional advice:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=895385
> 
> 
> Well anyway, here's the jist of it:



LordSte,


I had a problem like that a couple years ago. I took it in for repair out of warranty. It cost me $180 to get it fixed and I haven't had a problem since (other than the OTA dying, but I use the HR10 for that now)


----------



## Tarpon65

We replaced our F38310 with a 1080P Samsung 56" DLP in our main tv room over one year ago. The RCA has been sitting unused for that time, mainly because I was having a hard time finding a tv stand tall enough and strong enough to be used in our bedroom. Ending up picking up a stand on Friday and my neighbor and I picked this beast up and got it onto the stand this morning. Although I do not currently have a HD signal going into it (will have Verizon replace the SD box with a HD asap) the dvds look just as good as I remembered. Just to make sure I am not overlooking it, is there any type of sleep timer on this tv?


----------



## rttrek

Good sleuthing Mostau!


----------



## LordSte




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mostau* /forum/post/11494226
> 
> 
> LordSte,
> 
> 
> I had a problem like that a couple years ago. I took it in for repair out of warranty. It cost me $180 to get it fixed and I haven't had a problem since (other than the OTA dying, but I use the HR10 for that now)



Thanks bro. I might have to get someone to come over and fix it. There's no way I can lift that thing. We already had trouble with 3 people trying to get it DOWN the stairs when we first got it. Maybe I'll rent a crane.


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donyoop* /forum/post/11362507
> 
> 
> Overall, I was displeased with the non-descript disassembly procedure. The key is to just move the electronics chassis back far enough to clear the yoke of the CRT and flip it 90 degrees and set it down on the DM-1 module. I only had to disconnect 4 connectors. The bottom panel is then accessible. I did get the CR14710 diode and the accompanying 82 pf cap out... My solder sucking skills suck, but I did an OK job here. I'm also replacing two of the other diodes (2 other legs of the bridge) which are adjacent. When my back-ordered parts get here, I can do that. I will report at the end of the week what happens.



The 82 pf cap is finally off of national backorder. It will arrive Tuesday. I'll post results Wed. night. After removal, the 82 pf cap which straddles the CR14710 appeared to be leaky when I put a DVM on it. That got my hopes up.


Don


----------



## joynert

I've read many of the posts.. I have an RCA F38310JX5. About three years ago the power supply died; I had it repaired at a shop, and it cost me a bundle. Now, after a tree knocked out power and blew the transformer on the pole, despite my supposedly heavy-duty surge protector-power conditioner, a day after that event I came into the room and though the set was "off" it was clicking like a UPS. I turned the set on, and then off; no picture; the a sizzle and zap sound; I unplugged it. This is very similar to what happened in 2004. Is this the tuner power supply I've read so much about, or the main chassis supply? I mostly use this with video inputs, not the tumer. Can I buy and replace the paets myself?


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donyoop* /forum/post/11641934
> 
> 
> The 82 pf cap is finally off of national backorder. It will arrive Tuesday. I'll post results Wed. night. After removal, the 82 pf cap which straddles the CR14710 appeared to be leaky when I put a DVM on it. That got my hopes up.
> 
> 
> Don



I am happy to report that my F38310 is up and running again. I soldered in the 82 pf cap C14730 that has been on national backorder for the last 7 weeks, put the beast back together, and success. The picture is stable and no smoke. Woohoo.







I have about 3 hours on the set with the repair so far and I am a happy camper at the moment. The F38310 has such great contrast and spectacular high def image. The fried part was the infamous CR14710 which is straddled by C14730. I measured the C14730 that I took out with a dvm and got slightly less than a megohm, which tells me that it is leaky. That may be due to heat damage from the adjacent CR14710, or may have been the cause of the fried CR14710. I have been wondering why only CR14710 of the bridge circuit fried. Could it be due to the leaky cap? Possibly.


Parts replaced were: CR14710, C14730, CR14709, and CR14750. The reason I replace CR14709 and CR14750 is that they are suspect because they are adjacent to CR14710 and possibly could have suffered heat damage. I know that JoeFloyd also had initial success with the CR14710 replacement only to have it fry again after 3 months. I guess time will tell here. If it lasts more than 6 months, the repair will have been well worth it.


One tricky part of the repair was that when replacing the CR14710 diode, you have to be careful with the ferrite beads (very small donut shaped parts) which are on each lead. Those ferrite beads must be replaced on the new CR14710 diode before it is soldered in. Other than that, the most challenging part was using the solder sucker to desolder the parts. I used the $8 radio shack solder vacuuming tool which worked great.


Don


----------



## peterbilt

I recently got an HR20-700 and hooked it up to the F38310. Everything looks great, but I'm having an odd issue with the remote. When I use the button to turn on DirecTV and the TV simultaneously (upper right) the TV turns on in TV mode, rather than the component inputs that were last used. I can hit the TV input button and then channel down to get back to Component inputs, but that's kind of a drag to have to do every time I turn the TV on. If switch the remote to TV mode and then press Power this doesn't occur.


Anyone else see this behavior?


----------



## hayt

This is normal. I usually turn the power on from the set itself, or else block the remote when I press "tv" and then hit "power". I also assigned a button on the remote to switch to the component inputs when I press it. That is done in the menu under ???"switching"??? or something... can't remember right now.


----------



## RCA don

Congratulations to donyoop for resurrecting a great TV. Got a question for you: Based on your knowledge of circuitry and the fact that you replaced several components in the deflection/PS circuit, what failed first? Did the CR14710 safety diode succumb to a voltage spike or repeated use and create a cascade effect that damaged the other components? Or was it the other way around? My reason for asking is that I ordered two of the CR14710 diodes from Sears Parts ($6.96 each plus shipping) and I'm weighing the advisability to having one of them installed _before_ the existing diode fails. My objective is to squeeze another two to three years use out of my F38310 without a three to five hundred dollar service call. Obviously, no part replacement can guarantee another few years of reliable performance but it seems as though minimizing the chance of failure in the high or low voltage power supplies ups the odds substantially. I now have the parts to do both.


A heads up to all F38310 owners: if Sears is any kind of a barometer, suppliers appear to be reducing their inventories of replacement parts for our set. Sears no longer carries the DM-1 power supply module I ordered and received from them back in April. They showed no record of the deflection/PS circuit board. The Sears rep showed no reorder plans and when I asked about the number of different 38310 parts available she responded with, "It's a very short list." No cause for panic I guess. Just the way it goes for a mature and discontinued product.


Whadyathink, donyoop? Should I hire someone to replace my CR14710 with a new one?


----------



## RCA don

Joynert: Sounds like that power surge took out the safety diode in your deflection/PS(high voltage) power supply. Read the recent posts by Donyoop and, to a lesser extent, myself about the repair and parts availability. Obviously, people with donyoop's knowledge and ability can make the repair themselves. I couldn't but I am real good at buying the parts. Don't delay too long. As my last post indicates, parts for the F38310 appear to be getting scarce.


----------



## joynert

RCA Don;


I called Sears today and the only parts they list now are the owner's manual and the remote control; the "power supply board" (no number available) is listed as "service repair only," i.e. a consumer can't order it and the rep can't see the part number or the price. No individual diodes or caps were listed.


A popular thread moderated by "ratman" on HDTvoice

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/forumd...0&daysprune=-1 


has lots of info on the power supply problems, and the supposedly infamous "cap-doide problem," and links to various posts, but nowhere does there seem to be a comprehensive how-to that addresses such things as:


1. What are the various power supplies (there seem to be two)


2. What components should be replaced, both because they are damaged or because they were too weak to begin woth


3. What are the RCA part numbers of these componemnts


4. where can they be purchased?


5. What is the replacement/install sequence?


6. Exactly what is the "cap-diode problem " and how is it corrected?


Like many here, I like having the only 38" direct view HDTV ever made; plasmas and LCDs and projection TVs now come close, but the image doesn't "pop" like on a real CRT, and I'd like to keep this running until something truly better comes along.


----------



## RCA don

I'm well versed on the old cap-diode problem. That's a situation where a pair of under-rated capacitors in the DM-1 low voltage failed on took two diodes in the same circuit with them. Many later production runs of the F38310 had properly rated capacitors in place,my set among them. To be doubly safe, I have a complete DM-1 power supply board (from Sears) on hand. My question to you remains: Does the CR14710 you successfully replaced appear to be the first component to fail in that circuit and, if so, would replacing it before it fails prolong the life of the other components in that circuit? As I mentioned, I have a pair of those diodes in my possession.


----------



## Ratman

The infamous cap/diode problem of the DM1 power supply is totally unrelated to complete "power down" issues of the TV and only affects the internal tuner. This has been discussed here and other forums sinec 2001. Searching here and the other forums will eventually produce part numbers and such...


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/11679590
> 
> 
> Congratulations to donyoop for resurrecting a great TV. Got a question for you: Based on your knowledge of circuitry and the fact that you replaced several components in the deflection/PS circuit, what failed first? Did the CR14710 safety diode succumb to a voltage spike or repeated use and create a cascade effect that damaged the other components? Or was it the other way around? My reason for asking is that I ordered two of the CR14710 diodes from Sears Parts ($6.96 each plus shipping) and I'm weighing the advisability to having one of them installed _before_ the existing diode fails. My objective is to squeeze another two to three years use out of my F38310 without a three to five hundred dollar service call. Obviously, no part replacement can guarantee another few years of reliable performance but it seems as though minimizing the chance of failure in the high or low voltage power supplies ups the odds substantially. I now have the parts to do both.
> 
> 
> A heads up to all F38310 owners: if Sears is any kind of a barometer, suppliers appear to be reducing their inventories of replacement parts for our set. Sears no longer carries the DM-1 power supply module I ordered and received from them back in April. They showed no record of the deflection/PS circuit board. The Sears rep showed no reorder plans and when I asked about the number of different 38310 parts available she responded with, "It's a very short list." No cause for panic I guess. Just the way it goes for a mature and discontinued product.
> 
> 
> Whadyathink, donyoop? Should I hire someone to replace my CR14710 with a new one?



That is a good question. What failed first, the diode or the capacitor? Why did the failure occur? Was it heat related or an external voltage spike? Don't know, Mongo only pawn in game of life. I believe that the capacitor leakage induced more current through the diode which in turn could have generated a long term heat failure of the diode. I recommend replacing the 82 pf C14730 as well as the CR14710 if the CR14710 fries. I may be wrong about this. In fact, I am not even 50% confident that the leaky cap was the root cause. My set has been up and running only 3 days now on the fix and I will need a lot more time to determine if the root cause was the leaky cap.


If you don't currently have a problem with the CR14710, I would not change anything. The CR14710 is a little tricky due to the ferrite beads.

The C14730 could be changed out, but those high voltage caps are generally reliable and if not heat damaged, they should be OK.


Don


----------



## RCA don

Good advice, donyoop. Much like ratman's missive a few months back; "If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think I'm just going to locate and order that C14730 capacitor you employed, pack it away along with the safety diodes and DM-1 power supply I acquired and hope I don't have to utilize any of them for a couple of years or more. I couldn't agree more with your description of the 38310's picture quality.I'm just back from shopping for a lawn mower at a local Sear's Outlet store. Naturally, I also checked out the TV's. Guess what picture literally jumped off the shelf, head and shoulders above the others for picture quality? A battered Sony 34" CRT HDTV. And ours is four inches or more larger on the diag. Life is good...as long as my safety diode holds up.


----------



## joynert

RCA Don, Ratman;


I ordered a kit (DTV306-KIT) from Tritronics that supposedly has "common failure items," so I'll see what arrives.


i have yet to take the back off (I need to turn the set around on its shelf, no easy task), so I can't see exactly waht looks fried, but you guys have given me enough insight into what to look for and replace that I'm going to try this weekend.


And yes, Sears claims they now only sell the power supply board to a "registered service providor" and the rep couldn't even see what the part number was.


Even so, I have to admit I'm considering getting a new set anyway... newest DLP rear-projections aren't bad, newest LCDs supposedly have solved the motion and contrast problems; I'm still afraid of plasma, though it most closely approximates a CRT.


I'll let you know!


----------



## Azile2012

Hello,


I have a f38310 that I bought from my parents recently for $300. As my father is a DirecTv dealer, he used this TV extensively, and it has never given him any problems. Last check of the odometer was 55,000+.


Anyway, I fear that it may be succumbing to the problems I have seen posted here, but I am not certain. The volume turns itself down, I cannot change the input (stuck on TV) and the buttons on the top don't respond. I can't program the remote to it. I have to unplug it to turn it off. When I do plug it in, it seems like it takes longer to turn on than it used to. Is this the "cap & diode" problem?


I don't have DirecTV or an antenna hooked up to it, I have Verizon cable, DVD player, XBOX 360, PS2, and a stereo system connected through a component box.


From what I read it sounds like this may be a lost cause and replacement parts are now scarce, but I really love this TV and would like to try to fix it. It is the first and only HDTV I have owned.


----------



## jj61

Dead Power Supply.


I have a F38310JX5 that stopped working some time back. Just prior to the failure I heard a high-pitched ringing that sounded suspiciously like a cap ready to blow. The picture popped off so I unplugged the set (worried about fire). When I plugged it back in, I could hear a fan, but nothing happened when I hit the power button. No LED, nothing.


I had an RCA recommended tech come in and look at it and he said I had a dead power supply and that he could not fix it. He would not guarantee the repair even if he could fix it. I called RCA and they said I should scrap the set.


I can't believe it can't be fixed, especially after reading some of these posts. I have an electronic background (not TV though) and access to diagnostic tools. I took the back of the set off and removed the board on the left side (looking from the back) labeled PS1T, however this board seems to trace back to what I assume is the Direct TV chassis, and that fan still runs when the TV is plugged in.


So my first question to you experienced - is there another power supply board for the TV and how would I access it? I don't want to start digging around too much without some direction.


----------



## Azile2012




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Azile2012* /forum/post/11725682
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have a f38310jx4 that I bought from my parents recently for $300. As my father is a DirecTv dealer, he used this TV extensively, and it has never given him any problems. Last check of the odometer was 55,000+.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I fear that it may be succumbing to the problems I have seen posted here, but I am not certain. The volume turns itself down, I cannot change the input (stuck on TV) and the buttons on the top don't respond. I can't program the remote to it. I have to unplug it to turn it off. When I do plug it in, it seems like it takes longer to turn on than it used to. Is this the "cap & diode" problem?
> 
> 
> I don't have DirecTV or an antenna hooked up to it, I have Verizon cable, DVD player, XBOX 360, PS2, and a stereo system connected through a component box.
> 
> 
> From what I read it sounds like this may be a lost cause and replacement parts are now scarce, but I really love this TV and would like to try to fix it. It is the first and only HDTV I have owned.



OK, after moving this beast out of the living room and into a spare room, I plugged it in just to see if maybe it being unplugged for a day helped matters, and sure enough, it worked fine for about an hour. But after that it began the volume thing and trying to switch channels. Luckily when it was working correctly I had put it on channel lock, so I was at least able to watch cable.


So I guess the question still stands as in my original post.


----------



## donyoop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Azile2012* /forum/post/11748055
> 
> 
> OK, after moving this beast out of the living room and into a spare room, I plugged it in just to see if maybe it being unplugged for a day helped matters, and sure enough, it worked fine for about an hour. But after that it began the volume thing and trying to switch channels. Luckily when it was working correctly I had put it on channel lock, so I was at least able to watch cable.
> 
> 
> So I guess the question still stands as in my original post.



I would not think that this problem is the original cap & diode problem on the DM-1 power supply. Looks like some sort of heat related failure on the A/V board or a heat related power supply failure to that board. The problem could be either place. I believe to find this problem you would need the service manual with schematics, have the unit torn apart and fired up, and use freeze mist on a couple of suspect components to see if you can see if the problem repairs itself. You would have to be aware of where all of the high voltages are and totally avoid them with the freeze mist (appropriate for TTL or less voltage level components). Then, if you are able to pinpoint the failing component, you have a chance at fixing the beast.


Don


----------



## Azile2012




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donyoop* /forum/post/11760662
> 
> 
> I would not think that this problem is the original cap & diode problem on the DM-1 power supply. Looks like some sort of heat related failure on the A/V board or a heat related power supply failure to that board. The problem could be either place. I believe to find this problem you would need the service manual with schematics, have the unit torn apart and fired up, and use freeze mist on a couple of suspect components to see if you can see if the problem repairs itself. You would have to be aware of where all of the high voltages are and totally avoid them with the freeze mist (appropriate for TTL or less voltage level components). Then, if you are able to pinpoint the failing component, you have a chance at fixing the beast.
> 
> 
> Don




Thanks for your help! Now to find someone that knows what they are doing that won't charge $500.......lol


----------



## don1f20

Does anyone know...It just happening while we watching tv then the screen when black,

the relay on main power board clicking on and off and also the fan on top main power board also on and off as the relay clicking on and off. Found out the thermistor (or varistor) next to degause relay was burn out. Replaced did not help. Power supply on the side of HDTV module, all power caps are look ok and no cold solder joint and no other component are burn out. I have no schematic, call RCA and thomsonservice to order schematic they said only service authorize dealer handle this, they give me phone # of loacal service provider, i called them they are not supply schematic. I am knowledge of electronic but not TV.


----------



## gus738

Hey guys wow its been a while since i last posted here, anyways i moved to a new house and now my viewing distince is 11 FT to 15FT so it was time for a new bigger tv. i ended up buying the TH-50PX75U

http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-e...00000000005702 


anyways i know its kinda off topic but i thought i mentioned it. now to decide what to do with this tv and wheather or not to renew the warranty from Circuit city.....


hae a great day


----------



## eddieras

i've had the f38310 for 4 years and have the ext warranty- every oct i keep wondering whether i should re-up... another $146/ year...

my luck it'll never crap out!

anyone _cash in_ lately on an unfixable machine? wondering what they're giving if they can't fix it


----------



## Ratman

Probably around $146.


----------



## eddieras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/11811628
> 
> 
> Probably around $146.



great... thanks!







you're probably right


----------



## joynert

Well, my kit finally arrived and I replaced three parts on the main circuit board that were fried or suspect - two resistors and a diode (R14611, R14603 Q14601), . When I plugged her in, obviously the problem was partly fixed, because the TV no longer was clicking (or frying parts) like it had done as it died; the fan came on, and when I powered it up the "power" light lit, but no picture. I suspect there are other parts that need replacing, but physical examination showed no candidates. The power supply (DM1) looked OK; no bulging caps or any signs of obvious damage, no blown fuses; I also opened up the tuner and that looked OK too, but I assume that since the unit powers up but has no picture the problem lies in the tuner...


I'm about to give up on this TV; any last-chance suggestions, or does anybody want parts? LOL


----------



## moncal90

Hey guys,

This is my first time posting on here, I've had my F38210JX4 since Dec 2001. I fell in love with the picture when I first saw it at Best Buy. Anyways, the TV has been very reliable since I got but this week we moved into our new home and I think the TV didn't survive. I got the whole thing set up and turned it on and everything seemed to work. So I plugged in the 360 and receiver so I could get sound etc and turned her back on using the power button at the top and then tried to use the remote to change from TV to DirecTV, at which point the remote wouldn't control the TV. I then tried using the top buttons to change things and now all 4 buttons at the top of the TV just switch the set between TV and DirecTV. The picture looks great but I can't change channels or go to the Inputs. I'm stuck.


Oh I just found out that if I hold the Power button on the TV, the remote works fine and I can switch to everything I want but I gotta hold the Power button down.







Any thoughts on what's going on?


Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

Unplug the TV from wall power for a few minutes. Plug back in and power up the TV by pressing the blue "TV" button on the remote.


----------



## moncal90

Thanks for the reply Ratman, unfortunately that didn't work, the TV still ignores the remote unless I hold down the power button on the top of the TV. Same symptoms, right now I just have tape holding the power button down and operate the TV from the remote. Seems to be a valid work around for now.


----------



## Ratman

Have you checked to see that none of the buttons are "stuck" or perhaps the internal contacts corroded?


Unplug the TV again and depress all of the buttons a few times each. who knows? Maybe it will help...


----------



## bkolnz

I bought a refirb off ebay in 2002. Purchased the RCA extended warranty, and 1 year later experienced a total failure. It took the shop over 3 months to fix, but when it came back the Tech. told me they had billed RCA over 1k, and that the set was virtually rebuilt, again.. Since then every month or two, the picture sort of melts away and fades to black. I unplug for a few minutes, and it comes back just fine. I suspect that when it has major break down again, I'll probably let it go.


Picture is great,, but am wondering if the built in Direct TV and HD reciever are still current. I'm not able to see all the new HD channels offered this month from DTV in the profile screen. I'm running an oval dish with 3 LNB's and set is adjusted to that equip. Thought I would ask you guys before I go through the hassel of talking to someone in Malasia..


Bill Collins

Euless, TX


----------



## Ratman

The internal tuner in the F38310 (actually a DTC-100) is outdated and cannot be upgraded to accomodate the "new" 5 LNB dish and/or "new" HD offerings from D*.


----------



## Freddyki

bkolnz,


However, you can install the larger 5 LNB dish along with the appropriate set top box (STB), enabling you to receive the latest HD programming. That's what I did on my F38310J4. DTV charged me $100 for the STB and provided and installed the dish free of charge, but they charged $75 for the pole on which to set the dish. I thought $175 was a good deal.


Fred


----------



## nhbeiser

Folkes;


I picked up a free F38310YX5 off of craig's list. It was dead except for a fan and some noticeable transformer squeal. I checked all the obvious things listed in this forum. All seemed fine, caps and diodes. I don't have the time or $$s to invest in it. So, I saved the chasis and supply board that sits next to the chasis and tossed the rest. If any one wants the chasis or supply board they can have it. I did pull CR14710 but still have it. I may have lost one of the ferrite beads that goes on it. If you want it, email me. Hopefully it is of some use to somebody. I'm in New Hampshire.

-Chris


----------



## DennisMileHi

I haven't checked in here for over a year. I bought my F38310 refurbished in 2002. I think the diodes, etc. must have been fixed by RCA on the refurb because I haven't had any problems.


Net: still working great with great picture. I long ago stopped using the internal DTC-100 tuner when I got a HR10-250 from D*. My extended warranty is now up so I hope it continues to perform for a while longer. Other than it is a big heavy set, the picture is still second to none, IMHO.


Here's hoping everyone else with a working set can enjoy it for a lot longer.


----------



## bd12345

I have read parts of this post but I will ask the question anyway, My set has been working for the past 5 years but now it will not turn on after it warms up. It just cycles with a clicking sound every second or so. If you unplug it and let it cool then it will work again. Any suggestions. I can fix it if I know which parts to replace.


----------



## MarkRCA01

Felt like a spy in the corner because I had a very basic setup with old but reliable A/V equipment and My JX4 Nov 01 38310. You guys on this thread are a great resource so here goes.

I love my set, and it works great







. I'm considering buying the new Sony PS 3 for its Blu-Ray potential but hear it only has HDMI output. Can our set even hook up to this thing? I just bought an Onkyo A/V receiver to upgrade the Audio and give me more video freedom. I have a DTV HD DVR upgrade coming next week as well. Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## jwheeler

I have an F38310 as well and you can only conect component up to it. Does your new receiver have HDMI inputs and able to pass along and convert that signal over to component?


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MarkRCA01* /forum/post/12153278
> 
> 
> Felt like a spy in the corner because I had a very basic setup with old but reliable A/V equipment and My JX4 Nov 01 38310. You guys on this thread are a great resource so here goes.
> 
> I love my set, and it works great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm considering buying the new Sony PS 3 for its Blu-Ray potential but hear it only has HDMI output. Can our set even hook up to this thing? I just bought an Onkyo A/V receiver to upgrade the Audio and give me more video freedom. I have a DTV HD DVR upgrade coming next week as well. Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!



I have both a JX4 and an Onkyo (Model HS 500 I think) A/V receiver. My receiver has component inputs and outputs; no HDMI in/out. If your Onkyo has an HDMI input, it should pass the signal through its component outputs to your TV. What? No HDMI on your Onkyo. If so, here's hoping it isn't too late to exchange it for an HDMI-equipped unit. I'm not aware of a HDMI/component adapter. HDMI to DVI adapters exist but that's a digital-to-digital connection where a component to HDMI connection would be analog to digital which is probably not feasible.


Broadcast news to all 38310 thread members: my 38310JX4 is still putting out great HD pictures with nary a power failure or other glitch. It's been in continuous use since February, 2001 and powered on for about 12,000 hours of that period.The replacement parts (high voltage safety diode and DM-1 power supply board) I purchased are still in their shipping cartons which is where I believe they'll stay for a couple of more years. Ya never know, though. Any latebreaking news about problems and/or solutions for F38310s from anyone?


----------



## eddieras

i've had my rca for 5 years now without a problem - i've been getting the warranty year to year but i haven't reupped this time-- now i'm wondering if i should or not!


----------



## Stevenage

As of two weeks ago I am no longer an owner of one of these fine sets.


My set up was a PS3 with component out at 1080i through an Onkyo 604 to the tv's component input. It worked very well. Also had a dvd player through the Onkyo too, via component.


My 38310 has lasted 5 years with no problems.


----------



## MarkRCA01

Once I saw Stevenage used the 2 together, I went and got the PS3. with the free movies, I couldn't resist trying.

It Works! Just Buy the Sony Component cable for pS3. Blu-Ray looks amazing







! 1 annoying glitch though. When the PS3 (menu)is set to output at 1080i the screen goes squiggley(unreadable)







. I put in a movie and the lines vanish and it's crystal clear. But I have to figure it out because you can't read anything until a movie triggers it. I'm wondering what would cause that effect. Resetting it multiple times worked once where I could read the menu in 1080i. Thoughts?


----------



## Stevenage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MarkRCA01* /forum/post/12163062
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what would cause that effect. Resetting it multiple times worked once where I could read the menu in 1080i. Thoughts?



Could be the tv trying to sync with the signal? Give it some more time to sync.


----------



## tekumseh

Uh-oh, I think my set has finally crapped out. I haven't had it on all day, and tonight, when I tried to turn it on, the light on the set top power button came on, stayed on for a few seconds, then went off - no picture or sound. I unplugged and replugged the set, heard the set sort of "click" like it was coming on, but still nothing. If anyone still checks here and might have a clue, I could sure use one right about now. Thanks...


----------



## marzer

Mine just stopped working last week (12 Nov), had it since Sep 2001 with no problems up until now. Wouldn't power on, no fan sound, fortunately I kept the extended warranty current. The tech was just out today, and though it showed no bulging capacitors as mentioned in the past, it was the DM-1 power board that needed replacing. Should get the part in next week.


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marzer* /forum/post/12271204
> 
> 
> Mine just stopped working last week (12 Nov), had it since Sep 2001 with no problems up until now. Wouldn't power on, no fan sound, fortunately I kept the extended warranty current. The tech was just out today, and though it showed no bulging capacitors as mentioned in the past, it was the DM-1 power board that needed replacing. Should get the part in next week.



Would you describe yourself as a heavy-duty TV watcher (45 hours per week or more)? Reason I ask is my 38310 was purchased about seven months before yours. I have a new DM-1 power supply board on hand and I'm thinking it might be a good idea to install it as a precaution because I understand that some DM-1 failures can also cascade over into the DM-1 tuner itself. most of my viewing (90%) is through the component inputs so I'm a light OTA (DM-1 tuner) user. That might explain why my DM-1 power supply has lasted this long. What about you?


----------



## rsilvers

I just checked the odometer on mine. 42,000. What does that mean? There is no way that is in hours of use. It has been plugged in that long though.


It is working fine. It was overscanning way too much with the component input and I just learned enough to fix that and now it is good. Station logos were half chopped off and we know they don't put them right at the edge.


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsilvers* /forum/post/12275829
> 
> 
> I just checked the odometer on mine. 42,000. What does that mean? There is no way that is in hours of use. It has been plugged in that long though.
> 
> 
> It is working fine. It was overscanning way too much with the component input and I just learned enough to fix that and now it is good. Station logos were half chopped off and we know they don't put them right at the edge.



The odometer indicates nothing more or less than the number of hours the set has been receiving power. Actual power-on use is a relatively small fraction of that figure. I never experienced the overscan through the component inputs that you describe. guess I got lucky with my 38310 in that area, too.


----------



## poonone

My f38310jx4 RCA HDTV just clicks when plugged in so I have a few questions that may be easy for you guys to answer:


1) DM-1 power supply or DM-1 Board problem?


2) I think RCA Don posted the model number for the DM-1 Board a bit back if you think it may be the DM-1 Power supply could I get its part number?


3) I've read about a caps and diodes fix, but didn't see what the fix was or what to check for to see if I have a problem... Is that simply replacing the DM-1 board?


4) Is there anything else you guys would suggest that could cause the tv to just click when plugged in?


Thanks tons!


Scott


----------



## tbreed

I have a JX4 made in June 2001. Just this morning, it won't come on--no lights, no fan, no clicks, nothing. It's out of warranty--any ideas, or would someone like to use it for parts?


Thanks for any advice.


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *poonone* /forum/post/12291218
> 
> 
> My f38310jx4 RCA HDTV just clicks when plugged in so I have a few questions that may be easy for you guys to answer:
> 
> 
> 1) DM-1 power supply or DM-1 Board problem?
> 
> 
> 2) I think RCA Don posted the model number for the DM-1 Board a bit back if you think it may be the DM-1 Power supply could I get its part number?
> 
> 
> 3) I've read about a caps and diodes fix, but didn't see what the fix was or what to check for to see if I have a problem... Is that simply replacing the DM-1 board?
> 
> 
> 4) Is there anything else you guys would suggest that could cause the tv to just click when plugged in?
> 
> 
> Thanks tons!
> 
> 
> Scott



The RCA(Thomson) part number for the DM-1 power supply module is 46-356712-3. A failure on that board is a quite likely but not certain cause of your problem. Get the power supply board and you can forget about the old caps/diodes issue. The underrated caps and affected diodes were on early versions of the DM-1 power supply board. See Marzer's post #702 in this thread. A service tech identified his problem as the DM-1 power supply and his symptoms are almost identical to yours.


----------



## poonone

You seriously rock! I'll keep you guys posted as to if that fixes my issue... not that I ever watch it... I just don't like watching it in it's current "Bricked" state.


Thanks tons!


Scott


----------



## johnkiefer

I have a f38310 jx4 that having a picture problems. The picture has horizontal white scan lines every inch or so. It has been sitting for a year, but I will never get around to fixing it.


The set is locate on the North side of Houston in Spring.


Email me if you want the set and stand. [email protected] 



John K.


----------



## Doom5

I just bought an RCA F38310 used for a pretty good price to supplement my other CRT HDTV; I purchased this one for gaming. The guy I bought it from didn't seem to use it much, no HDTV feed into it; he just used it to watch DVDs basically. It's in excellent shape.


It's a JX4, made in April of 2001. Getting it to the second floor and in my media room took three strong guys and I don't think we'll ever be able to get it back down. I plan on opening it up soon to disable the SVM.


I hooked up my 360 to test it last night and the only thing that bothered me was some woblyness in the 1080i picture. I don't know if that could be after affects from the one hour truck ride home, SVM(made my other TV looks terrible), or another issue.


Also, should I resolder an capacitors as a preventive measure to make the set last longer? If not, where can I order a DM-1 board? I see the part number listed here, but where can I get the board from and what's roughly the cost of it?


Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

1) IMO, disabling SVM wasn't an improvement. I found that lowering "sharpness" one click (from the left) was best for me. YMMV


2) resoldering caps is not the issue. If they are underrated, they need to be replaced. If the are bulged at the top then it's best to replace. If they are "brown", then they are the problematic caps. If they are "silver/blue"... they are upgraded and no need to be concerned.


3) the DM1 power supply "problem" only affects the internal tuner (DirecTV/OTA). Even if blown, component/composite inputs will still work.


----------



## Doom5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/12350821
> 
> 
> 1) IMO, disabling SVM wasn't an improvement. I found that lowering "sharpness" one click (from the left) was best for me. YMMV
> 
> 
> 2) resoldering caps is not the issue. If they are underrated, they need to be replaced. If the are bulged at the top then it's best to replace. If they are "brown", then they are the problematic caps. If they are "silver/blue"... they are upgraded and no need to be concerned.
> 
> 
> 3) the DM1 power supply "problem" only affects the internal tuner (DirecTV/OTA). Even if blown, component/composite inputs will still work.



1.) I lowered the sharpness all the way to the bottom last night, and everything was a blurry blurry mess. I didn't try one or two clicks from the left though.


2.) Are the caps all located on the DM-1 board, or on the power supply board as well? I just need to know where to look when I open this puppy up. I deal with budging/bad caps at a regular basis at my job, so I just need to know where I should be looking.


3.) There's no OTA in my area, nor did the previous owner have DirectTv, not do I, so I suppose that won't be a problem










Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

the two problematic caps are on the DM1 power supply board. When looking from the back of the set, the board to the left of the tall steel box (DM1).


Courtesy of DrJoe:
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310.pdf


----------



## Doom5

Does anyone have any current powerstrip timings/modelines for 480p/540p and 1080i? I'm going to be hooking this TV up to a HTPC box in linux with a VGA to component transcoder.


----------



## enigma9o7

I just bought one of these tvs a couple months ago from Craiglist, and am loving it! Quite an upgrade from 19" 4:3! Reception is noticeably better than with the kworld hdtv tuner card I had in my computer; channels I never got on the pc come in perfectly fine with the tv, using the same rca powered indoor antenna.


I really like the built-in tv guide, that's pretty neat, never seen a tv that could do that with just an antenna before, although it could be faster... kinda annoying if I go out of the guide and come back, or wrap around back to the channels I started at, it has to re-aquire the data. Can't complain too much tho, this wasn't even a feature I knew existed before buying it!


Also purchased a Toshiba HD-A2 around the same time ($98 walmart special) and it looks great doing 1080i over component... I ran HDMI into my Onkyo 604 receiver for the full audio too, I'm glad the HDA2 can do component video and hdmi at the same time so I didnt have to "settle" for spdif audio.


The stand looks great, but it's isnt very intelligently shaped in my opinion, its not deep enough to put two a/v components side by side (i.e. receiver and hddvd player), and since I need one shelf for my center channel speaker, I had to use an additional stand for the a/v stuff. I really think it would have made more sense to be more square, the corners they cut out are competely wasted space.


Before buying it my only concern was the lack of 720p support on component, but that doesnt seem to be an issue anyway, every HD-DVD I've rented so far is 1080, and my pc automatically scales everything to 1080i, and that's all I've got hooked up (so far - I do have one more component input on my receiver incase I ever get a game console or whatever).


The only issue I can't figure out is how to remove analog stations from the up/down list. For example I get channel 7 analog and 7-1/7-2/7-3 digital, but it doesn't seem there is a way to remove the analog when a HD channel maps to the same place, or do remove specific subchannels and keep others. Example I'm watching 5-1 and push up, it goes to 7 then up again for 7-1, I just wanna go straight to 7-1 (there's no channel 6 here). There's foreign language subchannels I'd like to remove too, but keep the rest of them... doesn't seem possible.


----------



## DOBE

I'm glad this set still has an active thread! That's great. I bought the 38310 in 2001. 2+ years later I bought a new display. I gave the RCA to my dad. It's been a great set for 7 years!


Last Friday we had a huge storm in Northern California. My dad's electricity went out for about 5 seconds. He doesn't have the set plugged into a surge protector, but there was no lightening.


Since then he has not been able to receive a picture. He has a STB that seems to be functioning. There's audio through the A/V receiver, just no picture on the TV.


I also tried the DVD player and the audio can be heard through the receiver, but no picture.


The "on" light, at the top of the TV, is glowing. The set is making a slight humming sound that can be heard from the rear. The rear of the picture tube, when you look through the top, is glowing orange.


I have unplugged the set. When it's plugged back in, there are two 1/4" wide green and red lines that are about 4-5 inches in length ... in the middle of the screen. When the set is unplugged or plugged in there is a surge in the brightness of the red line that then fades slightly, but the 2 (red and green) lines don't go away, unless the set is off.


The set worked perfectly until this situation occurred. I don't know whether to call a repair guy. My dad can't afford much so I don't want him to waste his money.


Does this sound like an expensive problem to fix? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## DOBE

I have other question. I've read a lot about "cap/diodes" being replaced on this set. If they go bad would they cause the kind of problem I described above? As I said I've plugged and unplugged the set numerous times but that doesn't change anything, except to make the thin 5" long 1/4" wide line glow temporarily brighter.


Also, how much do they cost to replace? Thanks again.


----------



## Signalseeker

Hello: Anyone interested in my F38310 with stand? It's free... Needs repair you can search the threads and see my postings from June-July, other than that the beast is very clean. I would fix it but 1) Wife hates the huge monster and 2) have no more room after getting new TV and pellet stove, which was put in place where tv use to be. Let me know.


----------



## ms.orville

I've had a 38310 since I was given a refurb in July of 2001 while working for TCE.... I left it behind when I moved, as it was just too darned heavy to move across state lines! My godson and two of his football player buddies staggered out the door with it about a year and a half ago.


Just visited it this weekend, and it's still chugging along just as well as it has ever been. He's got a standard cable box hooked up, but uses it primarily for his xBox....and it looks great.


Hope I've not jinxed him with this post







, but I never had a moment's problem with it, and neither has he!


----------



## McGlentosh

I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread! I bought my RCA F38310 in May 2001 and haven't had any major problems. It's a great set.


The one feature I hadn't used until about six months ago was the built-in DirecTV. I also bought an HR-20 but had the tech run a third line for the RCA. The hard part was getting DirecTV to understand and believe that I had a built-in receiver and not one of theirs. They asked for the serial number, access card number, etc. After sending me a new card (the one that came with the set was NG) and spending more time convincing, they finally were able to get it working. And it works great. I love the banner info/logos (I never got that with cable or OTA). The only problem is that the new HD channels on DirecTV won't come in, even with the in-line converter installed. I may end up canceling the RCA receiver and just using the HR-20.


As I said, I've had no major problems, but a few minor annoyances irk me a little. For example, I've noticed that the picture via the component inputs is a bit overscanned compared with the OTA and built-in DirecTV, resulting in about an inch or so of the picture being cut off all around. It's not drastic, just annoying. Has anyone else noticed this?


Another annoyance was the occasional appearance of diagonal lines whenever I switched antenna inputs from OTA to cable. The lines only appeared on the NTSC picture, not ATSC. I had to switch back and forth until it would be OK. It still happens, but since I dumped cable, I don't switch much anymore, so I'm less annoyed.


I also hooked up external speakers to the taps on the back, since the built-in speakers leave a lot to be desired, especially in the bass range. They (or something) would buzz at certain frequencies and drive me nuts.


All in all, despite these minor annoyances, I'm still loving the ol' RCA F38310 HDTV. May she continue to serve me well into the future.


Glen


----------



## dheisel

I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.


Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dheisel* /forum/post/12826324
> 
> 
> I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?



I'm writing this from work and don't have my RCA reomote in front of me, so this solution is from memory. with your TV set on one of the ota tuners, press the MENU (I think) button. A list of choices should appear: Picture Settings, Display Preferences, Channel Tuning, etc. Go to the "Personal Preferences" and click OK. a list of preference settings will appear. The top one is probably the PG setting culprit. Remove that preference setting and you should be good to go: R-ratings, X-ratings...bring 'em on! Remember: these driections are from memory and the actual nomenclature on the screen might differ.


----------



## Namtar

select:

menu

profiles

TV Setup

select TV Ratings/movie/unrated and set all to "view"


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Namtar* /forum/post/12834297
> 
> 
> select:
> 
> menu
> 
> profiles
> 
> TV Setup
> 
> select TV Ratings/movie/unrated and set all to "view"



Yep. That's what I meant. I think.


----------



## Namtar

I read what you said,

and knew what you meant.


But the fact is your info's,

... not 100 percent.










(couldn't resist!







)


----------



## RCA don




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Namtar* /forum/post/12835340
> 
> 
> I read what you said,
> 
> and knew what you meant.
> 
> 
> But the fact is your info's,
> 
> ... not 100 percent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (couldn't resist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



That's it. I'm never going to try to help anyone again...until the next time someone posts a question that I have a vague answer to.


----------



## McGlentosh

I'm trying to adjust the overscan in component video, and I am frustrated. In several posts in this thread, people have said to press Channel Down, then DirecTV and TV on the remote to enter the Service mode. I tried it many ways, but it wouldn't work. Any help?


Glen


----------



## Namtar

On the front panel (FPA) of the F38310 (you can't use the remote), *simultaneously*/quickly press the "CH-Down and DirecTV” buttons.


Be sure to be on "component video" mode first before making adjustments.


----------



## McGlentosh

OK, it worked! Thanks. But now what?


The screen says Version number and P:0 V:0


How do I change the horizontal and vertical size?


----------



## Namtar

 http://www.manitoupark.com/public/f38310.asp


----------



## HotAhr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dheisel* /forum/post/12826324
> 
> 
> I inherited a F38310 from my grandfather a few years ago.. awesome you think... until I found out that he had entered a parental code and I could not watch anything rated over TV-PG. I just used it for a HTPC but now I want to try some OTA HD. I spent hours on the phone with the company, and they could only tell me a way to reset it with the WHO button on the remote, but I do not have the original remote(all the universals I have do not have this WHO button). I tried leaving the set unplugged for a few weeks... no luck there.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to clear the parental settings or reset the code?



Those RCA Remotes that best buy sells well work with your t.v. A number of years ago I lost my remote. I went to best buy, purchased one for just a few bucks, put it in and it worked.


----------



## McGlentosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Namtar* /forum/post/12842539
> 
> http://www.manitoupark.com/public/f38310.asp



Namtar (and RCA don),


I have that pub, but it doesn't help. Maybe it's too technical or is written for an advanced tech. I need more "Dick and Jane" directions. For example, I saw I can change the V: value with my remote's Volume control, but I couldn't change the P: value. And I don't even know what to change it to!


Can someone simplify it for me, such as:


1. On the remote, press X to change the horizontal width to XX.

2. Press X to change the vertical size to XX

3. Press X to Save changes and Exit.


Thanks.


Glen


----------



## Doom5

I finally got my set hooked up, but a having some issues. I disabled SVM, and checked the caps, they're clean with no bulging. However, I get some horizontal interference in my picture like some weird lines that move up and down a bit near the upper portion of the screen.


Also, at the left hand side of the screen, there's a waviness to the picture in about a 1-2 inch area all the way up the screen.


It's a JX4. Does anyone know what would cause this? Could it be RF interference? I know my room is full of it. I'm feeding it 1080i HD from my cable box and Xbox 360; same problem with both. The DTV tuner in the tv has never been used, according to the previous owner.


----------



## Namtar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *McGlentosh* /forum/post/12845922
> 
> 
> Namtar (and RCA don),
> 
> 
> I have that pub, but it doesn't help. Maybe it's too technical or is written for an advanced tech. I need more "Dick and Jane" directions. For example, I saw I can change the V: value with my remote's Volume control, but I couldn't change the P: value. And I don't even know what to change it to!
> 
> 
> Can someone simplify it for me, such as:
> 
> 
> 1. On the remote, press X to change the horizontal width to XX.
> 
> 2. Press X to change the vertical size to XX
> 
> 3. Press X to Save changes and Exit.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Glen



To read the instructions closely, you will see that you need to enter a 'password'.



> Quote:
> Instrument Alignment
> 
> When the service mode is first turned on use VOL + to
> 
> change the parameter number to 76, alignment security
> 
> code. Once a security code has been set, pressing CH ∧
> 
> will result in the following display:
> 
> Version Number: xx.xx P: XX V: XX
> 
> Where:
> 
> Version Number: xx.xx = Code Version
> 
> P: XX = Parameter Number
> 
> V: XX = Current Value
> 
> The CH ∧ and CH ∨ buttons can be used to change the
> 
> parameter number and the VOL + and VOL - buttons can
> 
> be used to change the value of the parameter selected.



TO change horizonal/vertical:


P:5

P:11


Be sure to write down values before making any changes.


----------



## Namtar

Doom5,


"weird lines" at the top of the screen could be VBI info due to underscanning. horizonal positioning can resolve.


"waviness" on the sides is an inherent problem with F38310's called "barrel roll". Can't be fixed. This is more prevalent with 480i stretched or 480p widescreen sources. Adjusting to overscan around 5% can help reduce the annoyance on the sides.


----------



## jbraden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *McGlentosh* /forum/post/12813581
> 
> 
> The one feature I hadn't used until about six months ago was the built-in DirecTV. I also bought an HR-20 but had the tech run a third line for the RCA. The only problem is that the new HD channels on DirecTV won't come in, even with the in-line converter installed.
> 
> Glen



That's because the RCA tuner only works for MPEG-2 HD satellite signals which are on channels 70-89. The new HD channels are in MPEG-4, and can only be received by H20/21 or HR20/21 receivers. Since you have an HR20, I assume you are receiving these channels through it. I used the internal DirecTV receiver for years, but once the new satellite was operational, I switched to an HR20 for satellite and OTA, and keep the RCA input set to Component.


----------



## jbraden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Namtar* /forum/post/12848093
> 
> 
> To read the instructions closely, you will see that you need to enter a 'password'.
> 
> 
> TO change horizonal/vertical:
> 
> 
> P:5
> 
> P:11
> 
> 
> Be sure to write down values before making any changes.



For McGlentosh:


Unless you enter 76 in the value for parameter 00, no changes will be effective. In addition to P:05, width adjustment, and P:11, vertical size, you may want/need to adjust:


P:04 Horizontal Position

P:07 Pincushion (parabola)

P:08 Trapezoid

P:09 Top corners (pincushion)

P:10 Vertical position (coarse)

P:13 Vertical position (fine)


As Namtar says, make sure to write down the original settings before making any changes, so you can change things back if the picture looks worse. New values are written as you change them. To exit service mode, press INFO on the remote.


----------



## McGlentosh

Namtar/jbraden,


Thank you both. I will try this when I get home. I am nervous I will screw something up. I will make sure I write down the values first.


Glen


----------



## McGlentosh

THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU! It worked, and now the logos are not cut off on my HD channels. One thing, though, I may have screwed up. I accidentally adjusted P:06 (Width 9151 Ref) before I realized I wasn't on P:05. I think I got it back by eyeball, but I'd like to know what the original value was. Does anyone know?


Thanks again, guys.


Glen


----------



## enigma9o7

I posted this a couple weeks ago, but maybe it got missed in my long post, figure it was worth asking again incase anyone can help me.


I can't figure out is how to remove analog stations from the up/down list. For example I get channel 7 analog and 7-1/7-2/7-3 digital, but it doesn't seem there is a way to remove the analog when a HD channel maps to the same place. For example, if I'm watching 5-1 and push up, it goes to 7, I have to push up again to get to 7-1. I just wanna go straight from 5-1 to 7-1 by pushing channel up (there's no channel 6 here).


I'd also like to be able to remove specific subchannels on digital channels and keep others, but it doesn't seem this is possible at all, am I right?


----------



## McGlentosh

Even more WOW...I just discovered the undocumented off-air guide feature that maps the UHF digital channel to the VHF, e.g., 28-1 jumps to 4-1 (WNBC-DT). Before, 28-1 would not come in.


I've discovered another quirk, however, and this one concerns powering on. Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?


Glen


P.S. - After seven years, I just discover new tweaks to make my set even better. Amazing. This forum is GREAT!


----------



## Namtar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *enigma9o7* /forum/post/12851200
> 
> 
> I posted this a couple weeks ago, ....., but it doesn't seem this is possible at all, am I right?



You are right.










The only solution to "skip" unwanted channels is to disable "off-air guides" and delete the undesirable "real" channel numbers. The drawback is that the digital channels will not be re-mapped to the 'virtual' channels (analog counterparts).


----------



## jbraden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *McGlentosh* /forum/post/12852412
> 
> 
> Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?



You're probably not using the right TV code in your DirecTV remote for the RCA 38310. I received an RC64R remote with my HR20 receiver and found TV code 11953 works well for that remote.


----------



## dheisel

I guess I wasn't clear in what I was asking. The TV has a code locking me out from being able to change any parental settings or even enter the time/date menu. Its a 4 digit code. I do not know the code and leaving the TV unplugged for a long time does not remove it. Is there a battery inside I can pull or something?


----------



## Ratman

Have you tried a code that grandpa may have used that "he" wouldn't forget? Year he was born, birthdate, phone number, anniversary..etc?


----------



## jstorer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbraden* /forum/post/12854924
> 
> 
> You're probably not using the right TV code in your DirecTV remote for the RCA 38310. I received an RC64R remote with my HR20 receiver and found TV code 11953 works well for that remote.




I just had DirecTV install an HD DVR and deactivated the internal DTV receiver, and I had the same problem. Code 11953 fixed it ! Thanks.


----------



## Jordan420




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *McGlentosh* /forum/post/12852412
> 
> 
> Even more WOW...I just discovered the undocumented off-air guide feature that maps the UHF digital channel to the VHF, e.g., 28-1 jumps to 4-1 (WNBC-DT). Before, 28-1 would not come in.
> 
> 
> I've discovered another quirk, however, and this one concerns powering on. Whenever I turn on the TV and DirecTV at the same time, using one button on the DirecTV remote, the F38310 always starts up on an OTA channel, even if I power down in component. I haven't been able to find a setting to change this. Does anyone know?
> 
> 
> Glen
> 
> 
> P.S. - After seven years, I just discover new tweaks to make my set even better. Amazing. This forum is GREAT!




I know there is a way to do it, I have done it, although I got a new set in November & my 38310 is in the other room unplugged.


If I recall, I used the Info, Menu-OK and right side of volume (plus)


Then in that menu that pops up go to channel hold->press the right arrow so the "tune to" box is highlighted


Press the OK button on the remote until "DIRECTV" is the choice


then go down to the box below & press the OK button on the remote until "after 5 min." is the choice


then scroll down to "Clear" & hit OK on the remote NOT DONE??? don't ask me why


then exit out of the menu, what ever input it was on when you turned off the TV will be what it is on when you turn it back on.


Also make sure the remote is set to TV, hold your hand over the eye & hit TV or you will not be able to move the choices around with the remote.


PS I went in & pluged in the TV because this was very frustrating to me, my sat box was connected to the component inputs & everytime I turned on the TV it was on VID1 input.


If this doesn't work pm me & I will check again on how to do it.



Jordan


----------



## Jordan420




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dheisel* /forum/post/12858511
> 
> 
> I guess I wasn't clear in what I was asking. The TV has a code locking me out from being able to change any parental settings or even enter the time/date menu. Its a 4 digit code. I do not know the code and leaving the TV unplugged for a long time does not remove it. Is there a battery inside I can pull or something?



There are plenty of replacement remotes on ebay w/ the who button


Ebay link doesn't work - search for "f38310 remote"

http://www.remotes.com/remotes/servl...12007811582021 



This remote was used on many rca & proscan tv's


Also where are you located, if you live in the Seattle area you can borrow my remote, or if you have a learning remote send it my way & I will teach your remote my "who" button, you should really get that fixed as this is a great set


----------



## Doom5

Does this TV have a variable dot pitch? The focus/clarity on the corners isn't nearly as good as the center of the screen. My hitachi 36" HDTV doesn't seem to have this problem.


Is this just a flaw with the tube, or can this be fixed/adjusted in the service menu?


----------



## clm811

I bought my set in early 2002, using it primarily with OTA stations in SF Bay Area, plus with my DVD player at 480P; I've always been happy with it.


Recently got a used DVDO iScan HD/SDI to use my Denon DVD player (w/SDI)upsampled to 1080i. Very impressive! I've been reviewing my large DVD collection and WOW!










I won't be switching to HDVD or Blue Ray anytime soon...









*Anyone else using a scaler to watch upsampled (to 1080i) DVD's?*


-chas


----------



## enigma9o7

Does anyone know if this tv will support 1080i at 50Hz (over component)? This would be from upscaled PAL SD-DVDs. I checked the onwers manual and a pdf faq I found online but there is no mention of supported frequencies. I would just try it and see, but it requires putting european firmware onto my player, which makes the players setup menus default to 50hz, so I dont want to do it unless I know the tv supports it.


----------



## bob.smith

Awesome thread, just found it










In Service Counter: 51331 (which puts the plugged in date ~4/7/2002)

no activation date set

warranty clock hours: 9128 (so that's an average of 4 hours per day)


Love the set. Had to get the caps on the PS replaced, guy did it in place with a soldering gun, couldn't believe it










I have only two issues with this set:


1) When watching a letterboxed image on 4:3, when I change the "Screen Format" from "Normal" to "Fill" (i.e. zoom in), the aspect ratio isn't correct; it zooms 10% more vertically then horizontally. Example, a circle with screen diameter of 6 inches in normal mode will be 8 inches wide, but 9 inches tall in fill mode. Might not seem like a lot, but it's totally noticeable to me. Any thoughts on how to fix this?


2) That blasted always-on cooling fan (never had DirecTV) is starting to whine, loud enough that I can hear it while the TV is playing. I'm sure there are posts on how to fix this, but I'm a little worried about opening up the TV myself. Any suggestions?


BTW, just added AT&T's U-Verse service (dropped Time Warner) and LOVE the HD+DVR set up. Until now, I've only watched a few OTA channels in HD.


----------



## mcdshaun

I just recently found this thread. I found my F38310 in the trash. I saw 2 people dragging (yes, dragging) their set to the side of the and asked them what they were doing. They said the set had a "menu" problem and they couldn't watch anything because of it. After coming back later with my roommate and loading it into a truck we got it back to the house where I took the cover off of the top near the power button and found that water had been spilled on the circuit board there. After some re-soldering and a down button replacement I had a practically new set that's still working great 4 years later! (also required some paint down the side where they drug it down the driveway...)


Anyways, thats my history and here's my question:

My wife cannot take the fan noise anymore. I've read that there's nothing that can be done about this because the 1 fan that's on when the set if off is inside the DM1 module that all of the TV inputs run through. Ok, so I wouldn't want to not be able use any inputs, but I don't use any of the directTV things at all, only the component input for my HD DVR. *What I would Like to do is cut the wire for the DM1 fan and split the wire of one of the other 2 fans to this one so it will only come on when the set is on.* See page 15 of this awesome guide for pictures:

" http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf "


Has anyone thought to try this? Does anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work? Any suggestions on how to do it? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!


----------



## enoree

Got mine in Oct '02, gave it to my daughter and her husband last june when I got a 50" Sammy plasma, still working great, has never skipped a beat.


----------



## jbraden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcdshaun* /forum/post/13138065
> 
> *What I would Like to do is cut the wire for the DM1 fan and split the wire of one of the other 2 fans to this one so it will only come on when the set is on.* See page 15 of this awesome guide for pictures:
> 
> " http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf "



Wouldn't it be easier to just plug the set into a power strip and shut that off when you don't want to hear the fan?


----------



## donovanhebard

hi all,


great thread! i've had my set since late 2001 or early 2002 i think. it's been an absolute perfect joy the whole time - never a problem.


until now!


the other day it began having an intermittent problem exhibited by uncontrolled input switching while powered on. it's as if someone is standing behind me with a remote, toggling through the inputs. goes like this for 10-20 seconds then stops. i then reset to the correct input, and resume viewing, sometimes for as little as 15 minutes, sometimes for an hour or more, until it happens again.


is this a common failure mode? anyone know the fix? as timing has it i am planning on replacing the set with a 50" Pioneer Kuro plasma soon and was going to sell this one to a friend who loves it. of course i can't sell it in it's current condition!


any and all help is really appreciated here - thank you!


-d


----------



## mcdshaun




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *donovanhebard* /forum/post/13231304
> 
> 
> the other day it began having an intermittent problem exhibited by uncontrolled input switching while powered on. it's as if someone is standing behind me with a remote, toggling through the inputs.



I had a similar problem with the set I picked up on the side of the road. I fixed mine by removing the button from the circuit board that is on top of the set (Found it on the side of the road so it was trash anyways right?) you don't need it, after all what are remotes for?


If you think its possible it is the button: I would first try resoldering the button connections on the bottom of the circuit board. You can get to it by popping off the black cover surrounding the buttons on top of the TV (make sure your set is unplugged when you do this of course). Next time it starts switching make sure you note if the inputs are cycling down or up, this will diagnose the correct button. If resoldering the connections doesn't work it may be something internal to the button, my solution to this part was pliers but you may think of an alternative.


Good luck!


----------



## sundowner8

Yeah, I still have mine although it is now my #3 HD set. It's been repaired once by me (bad diode). Last week I moved it upstairs to my office. What a job getting this beast up those stairs. It took a hand truck and a strap ratchet with a safety line to move it to the second floor. I'm now working through a Directv H20 via component input, so I get all the new HD channels. It still has a great picture. My wife and I both agree, it will be removed in pieces if it goes dead.


----------



## CHASLX200

I think the RCA and my 38" Loewe Aconda share the same glass from the same maker.


----------



## bob.smith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbraden* /forum/post/13226466
> 
> 
> Wouldn't it be easier to just plug the set into a power strip and shut that off when you don't want to hear the fan?



Doesn't fix my problem, since I can hear the fan when watching TV.


----------



## donovanhebard

great - thanks for the tip - i'll hope it's just the button - odd because i NEVER use the button, but worth checking out!


perhaps there's a way to jsut "disconect" the button without actually removing it - i'll see when i bust that baby open tonight!


thanks gain, wish me luck!


-d


----------



## protojim

I have had my f38310 for 5 yrs, and lateley an intermittent to almost permanent condition.

that is - my unit pwrs on tries to turn on (it doesn't and repeats until you unplug) relays just keep clicking.


THE FIX (for me) I isolated it down to SIP PWR Board (part #250725) for those w/o schematic it is the "daghter board off the main board. It has part#236657 or IC U14356 on it.


I fashioned ated test bench for this board and found that both 470uf 16V Caps (by the 10uf 63V caps) were "leaky" Bad. however at a quick glance on checker they appear okay- But load them down, and watch em leak.....


I replaced with HI temp 470UF 25V Caps I had on hand.....


I put the sip pwr board back in, closed her all up, conected everything, turned it on with fingers crossed, and voila the great picture I had was even better!


May this greatly contribute to the society!!!

P.S. this is my first post but I have read damn near the whole board


----------



## bd12345

Thanks for the solution. I have been living with this for a while and figured it for pwr supply caps but didn't know where. Looks like I have a week-end project. I had to fix a similar problem on my Maytag refrigerator a few months back.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *protojim* /forum/post/13300324
> 
> 
> I have had my f38310 for 5 yrs, and lateley an intermittent to almost permanent condition.
> 
> that is - my unit pwrs on tries to turn on (it doesn't and repeats until you unplug) relays just keep clicking.
> 
> 
> THE FIX (for me) I isolated it down to SIP PWR Board (part #250725) for those w/o schematic it is the "daghter board off the main board. It has part#236657 or IC U14356 on it.
> 
> 
> ........
> 
> 
> May this greatly contribute to the society!!!
> 
> P.S. this is my first post but I have read damn near the whole board


----------



## skinsfangreg

I have had my F38310 for about 6 years now and while I rarely use it I do love it. Yesterday I was deeply sadened when i went to turn it on and realized it was on and had no picture or sound. The fans are running and the power light on top is on. If I unplug it I get a small flash of light in the center of the screen and when plugged back in I get the same, but other than that I am unable to get anything on the screen. I would like to have it repaired but am unsure if it is repairable or cost effective to do so. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## hayt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skinsfangreg* /forum/post/13329608
> 
> 
> I have had my F38310 for about 6 years now and while I rarely use it I do love it. Yesterday I was deeply sadened when i went to turn it on and realized it was on and had no picture or sound. The fans are running and the power light on top is on. If I unplug it I get a small flash of light in the center of the screen and when plugged back in I get the same, but other than that I am unable to get anything on the screen. I would like to have it repaired but am unsure if it is repairable or cost effective to do so. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



So it was on already or you didnt see anything once you turned it on?

What input were you trying to use?

Does the power button on top respond or do you need to remove AC plug?

When was the last time you watched it?


----------



## donovanhebard

hi all,


still having the same input switching issue. tv will periodically cyle thorugh the inputs while powered up. very annonying. at the suggestion of another here i removed and took a good look at the input button assembly that is at the top front of the set. there is no visual damage there and it appears in perfect condition - was a long shot i thought anyway since i never use the button to switch inputs but rather the remote. not a remote problem as i took the batteries out of all remotes in the room in order to rule that out.


anyone had this issue? is this really a new problem? i don't want to have to call a repairman for this if i can avoid it!


any help much appreciated here! thanks!


-d


----------



## enigma9o7

I just moved, and noticed something I find odd when I was hooking up my tv at my new place. The led for the toslink output is ON even when the tv is off - I could see the visible red light coming out of the fiber as I was plugging it into my receiverr! What's up with that? I knew the fan stayed on (which seems like a waste of power, but the sound doesn't bug me) but why would the digital audio output be on? Do those LEDs ever wear out?


----------



## bardwell02

Hey, I found this thread looking for info about my new set...


Purchased ours September 2001. Always swore I'd keep it until it died. Then last year I finally saw a Sony XBR LCD that had a better picture IMO. January came around and I got a great deal on a Samsung 5271, so it had to go.


I got $320 for it on Ebay, the guy really just wanted it for OTA. It was a later JX5, over 50,000 when we checked. Great set, I was sorry to see it go but it went to a good home.


----------



## donovanhebard

anyone have a parts set they want to sell me this circuit board from? anyone done the replacement?


thanks,


-d


----------



## CRIMSON PEARL

Bought mine in 02 or 03. It was a demo at circuit city. The picture was PERFECT then and it is PERFECT now. I just bought a Sony KDSR-50 XBR1 SXRD because I wanted a bigger picture but I hope I'm not "stepping down" to a bigger set. I'm never gonna get rid of the RCA it's a museum peace and a work of art. I'll keep it as a spare.


----------



## Rodd

Well, after almost six years, my set just died about an hour ago. I went to turn it on, and it just would just click off like what protojim had happen to him. I unplugged it for about 20 minutes and when I plugged it back in, I get nothing at all- although I can still hear the fan. I'm going to unplug it and wait until morning to see what happens. Everything was fine until DirecTV installed their new box so I could get the latest "upgrades" about three weeks ago. The picture quality was terrible, and I had to get an AB switch because of the sole component input. I'm bummed. Money's tight right now, and I don't know what type of replacement TV to get.


----------



## Rodd

Weird. the TV came back on yesterday, but was dead again today. WTF is going on? I have the back taken off, but don't know what to look for.


----------



## gus738

i was wondering if their a member here that owns this set and the 8g pioneer kuro? i'v seen some pictures of the rca f38310 but dont know who it is.


also mine is for sale as its only collecting dust and taking space... no flaws what so ever make an offer and im assuming its going to be localy since it weights a ton.


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Hey, I found this thread looking for info about my new set...
> 
> 
> Purchased ours September 2001. Always swore I'd keep it until it died. Then last year I finally saw a Sony XBR LCD that had a better picture IMO. January came around and I got a great deal on a Samsung 5271, so it had to go.
> 
> 
> I got $320 for it on Ebay, the guy really just wanted it for OTA. It was a later JX5, over 50,000 when we checked. Great set, I was sorry to see it go but it went to a good home.



dont want to burst your bubble bro but xbr is way out of line to compare to the rca! it seems to me you like the artificial colors and that "POP" then a natrual realistic picture







the only contender that is on par with this tv set is the current pioneer 8g kuro and thats it


----------



## CRIMSON PEARL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/13560569
> 
> 
> dont want to burst your bubble bro but xbr is way out of line to compare to the rca! it seems to me you like the artificial colors and that "POP" then a natrual realistic picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only contender that is on par with this tv set is the current pioneer 8g kuro and thats it



I'm assuming this means the XBR is the better set. I was wandering about this also since I am replacing (still works perfect RCA) with a Sony KDSR-50XBR1 SXRD tomorow. Keeping the RCA or now. The picture on the RCA "AMAZES" me but the XBR "WOW'S" me


----------



## gus738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRIMSON PEARL* /forum/post/13561199
> 
> 
> I'm assuming this means the XBR is the better set. I was wandering about this also since I am replacing (still works perfect RCA) with a Sony KDSR-50XBR1 SXRD tomorow. Keeping the RCA or now. The picture on the RCA "AMAZES" me but the XBR "WOW'S" me



Why would you assume XBR is a better set? again its not, the only reason why it "wow" you is because SONY made this DYnamic mode so un educated people buy tvs when in reality is a showroom condition is not the same as home condition / enverioment.....

do as you please its your money but i know its a given fact crt > pioneer kuro .... that it


For the record i would not get a sxrd/ lcos or CRT PROJECTION because viewing angles suck and suffers from other flaws! lol you should know this



let me make it as clear as possible CRT TUBE was the best PQ technology you can get UNTIL only 1 tv surpassed it ... that being the pioneer kuro plasma 8g.


no other tv can compare to a crt not a plasma *except pio* DEFTIANLY NOT a lcd ..... if you want realistic natrual tones not artfiicial you'll know what i mean... so i suggest hold on to your crt and if you want a bigger size go with the current kuro or wait for the july 9g kuro.... its going to be slightly cheaper i belive


----------



## CRIMSON PEARL

I am having second thoughts. I think maybe when I get the sxrd home it won't look as good to me as it does in the store. And I have no way of doing an ab comparison of the two without buying it.







But for $1000 for an "updated" sxrd50 w new bulb and full warranty can I be going wrong.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/13561388
> 
> 
> Why would you assume XBR is a better set? again its not, the only reason why it "wow" you is because SONY made this DYnamic mode so un educated people buy tvs when in reality is a showroom condition is not the same as home condition / enverioment.....
> 
> do as you please its your money but i know its a given fact crt > pioneer kuro .... that it
> 
> 
> For the record i would not get a sxrd/ lcos or CRT PROJECTION because viewing angles suck and suffers from other flaws! lol you should know this
> 
> 
> 
> let me make it as clear as possible CRT TUBE was the best PQ technology you can get UNTIL only 1 tv surpassed it ... that being the pioneer kuro plasma 8g.
> 
> 
> no other tv can compare to a crt not a plasma *except pio* DEFTIANLY NOT a lcd ..... if you want realistic natrual tones not artfiicial you'll know what i mean... so i suggest hold on to your crt and if you want a bigger size go with the current kuro or wait for the july 9g kuro.... its going to be slightly cheaper i belive



I cant agree with you on this. I have a friend that even has a 720p plasma and the picture is as good as my F38310. Plus its a 50" so its even bigger. The new pany plasmas are what I have my eye on and they are awesome.


----------



## fuzzgrr

Hello,


We've loved our RCA F38310 since we bought it in Nov. 2001. The tube is now going bad so sometimes we get a perfect picture, other times we get scan lines and an interesting shadowy blue glow. Everything else works just fine except an occasionally noisy cooling fan inside the directv tuner.


We've been told that we can get a new (lighter) TV for the price it would cost to fix the tube in the unit.


I know there might be some folks on this forum who would be interested in rescuing it or having it for parts, so I'm offering it free to anyone who will come get it. I'm in Thornton, CO.


I'll check this posting for a couple of days and then probably list it on craigslist. Hopefully someone can put it to good use.


-Patrick


----------



## lqdgrphcs

Okay, here's one for ya...oh great and mighty holders of the RCA knowledge.


So the cable blinked in and out on me then went out. No biggie, done it before on a stormy night and it was storming that night. When it happened the Audio and Video went out which was followed by about 10 minutes of power outage.


I called, got a confirmation from the cable company that all would be well soon. About 15 minutes later everything came back on but there is no audio on the TV. The picture works fine and is as clear as always but I do not get any audio.


So what up?? Any suggestions? Any idea what I should try?


Leslie


----------



## Ratman

Cable box? Check audio/volume settings of the cable box.

No cable box? Check audio/volume settings of the TV.

Using A/V receiver? Check audio/volume settings of the cablebox, TV and A/V receiver.


A little detail about how things are connected can go a long way since there could be many variables.


----------



## poacher1

I have been following the information on your thread and it has been most helpful. I have a unit that would not power up so I did some checking and found that C14113, and C14115 caps were bad and replaced them with 4700uf 25V 105c caps. Now the TV will power up and I get a picture but I am also getting some arcing in the yoke of the picture tube. I am suspecting some type of voltage control problem but am unsure of where to go from here. Could anyone give me some helpful advice?


----------



## EscapeVelocity

Ratman do you own this set?


----------



## Ratman

Yes... still looks and runs well (knocks on wood).


----------



## eddieras

hey guys- i've had the rca about 4 years now (echo 'knock on wood') and i'm very happy with it. but i know down the line i'll be looking for a new (read:bigger) hdtv.


i'm curious as to what other rca owners have purchased regarding a larger one since owning (and enjoying) the RCA - also, lcd, plasma, dlp - and how does it measure up??


----------



## SirGrotius




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcdshaun* /forum/post/13138065
> 
> 
> I just recently found this thread. I found my F38310 in the trash. I saw 2 people dragging (yes, dragging) their set to the side of the and asked them what they were doing. They said the set had a "menu" problem and they couldn't watch anything because of it. After coming back later with my roommate and loading it into a truck we got it back to the house where I took the cover off of the top near the power button and found that water had been spilled on the circuit board there. After some re-soldering and a down button replacement I had a practically new set that's still working great 4 years later! (also required some paint down the side where they drug it down the driveway...)
> 
> 
> Anyways, thats my history and here's my question:
> 
> My wife cannot take the fan noise anymore. I've read that there's nothing that can be done about this because the 1 fan that's on when the set if off is inside the DM1 module that all of the TV inputs run through. Ok, so I wouldn't want to not be able use any inputs, but I don't use any of the directTV things at all, only the component input for my HD DVR. *What I would Like to do is cut the wire for the DM1 fan and split the wire of one of the other 2 fans to this one so it will only come on when the set is on.* See page 15 of this awesome guide for pictures:
> 
> " http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310faq.pdf "
> 
> 
> Has anyone thought to try this? Does anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work? Any suggestions on how to do it? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!



I got this tv for *free* from a friend. I say that in asterisks, because my legs surely paid a toll lugging this beast up to my apartment!


At first, I was a little disappointed by the regular cable stations, as everything seemed slightly out of focus, but I got an HD box the next day and am very impressed with the quality.


A couple issues:


As the person above noted, the constant fan noise is annoying. What were they thinking? I'm shocked that no one has a solution for disabling that one fan. I don't feel like turning off an additional power switch every time I want to turn off the TV. To the quoted poster, your method makes a lot of sense, but I wonder if the TV is somehow protected against this and if you'll get an error message if cutting the DirectTV fan. I say this because the TV was made to sell DirectTV service.


My other issue is the single composite cable hookups on the back. I have my HD box going through them now, but would like to hookup an Xbox360 similarly. Is there a such thing as a composite-cable selector which won't degrade my HD signal?


I should add in closing that I like the life-like image that this CRT gives as opposed to the sometimes "tinny" feeling I get looking at LCD screens.


----------



## Ratman

1) the TV wasn't manufactured specifically to "sell" D* service. It happened to use an RCA DTC100 receiver (internally) as an ATSC/satellite tuner... existing technology at the time and quite easy (and cost effective) to retrofit into various RCA TV's. No subscription to D* was required.


2) I think you meant "component" input. Yes... you can purchase component video switches.


----------



## poacher1

I found that CR14709, CR14710, CR14750, and C14730 are all bad. I was wondering if someone could help me with the values for the diodes listed. The diodes only say 15 on them. To the best of my knowledge they are 2kv but I don't know the amperage.


Thanks,

Poacher


----------



## GadgetFreak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/13769356
> 
> 
> hey guys- i've had the rca about 4 years now (echo 'knock on wood') and i'm very happy with it. but i know down the line i'll be looking for a new (read:bigger) hdtv.
> 
> 
> i'm curious as to what other rca owners have purchased regarding a larger one since owning (and enjoying) the RCA - also, lcd, plasma, dlp - and how does it measure up??



I don't remember exactly when this TV came out, but I bought it shortly after that. Finally gave it to my brother and purchased a Philips 7403 LCD from Sam's Club for $1199. I miss the TV, but it nice to have the extra square footage in the living room.


----------



## gus738

hi eddie if you want top notch quality like our crt then you will want to make the jump to the pioneer kuro plasma tv. even the 8th generation (last year 2007) were the big debate and some oweners posted their Rca f38310 side by side with a pioneer and the pioneer out performed their tv,


the jump is better pq for a bigger size, as far as price goes you can get one in costco very well under 2700 this is a tv that retails in bestbuy msrp of 5,000


here is a picture thread keep in mind while you are inpressed with these pictures the outcome of real world is vasy majorly diffrent

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=920011 




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/13769356
> 
> 
> hey guys- i've had the rca about 4 years now (echo 'knock on wood') and i'm very happy with it. but i know down the line i'll be looking for a new (read:bigger) hdtv.
> 
> 
> i'm curious as to what other rca owners have purchased regarding a larger one since owning (and enjoying) the RCA - also, lcd, plasma, dlp - and how does it measure up??




man quoting this guy after a while oh well


are you being serious or is this sarcasm?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CRIMSON PEARL* /forum/post/13561616
> 
> 
> I am having second thoughts. I think maybe when I get the sxrd home it won't look as good to me as it does in the store. And I have no way of doing an ab comparison of the two without buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for $1000 for an "updated" sxrd50 w new bulb and full warranty can I be going wrong.


----------



## mpmp0

my 38310 finally crapped out on me, i think. purchased 3/3/01, never had a problem till now.


i returned to my room to find the TV off. i knew i had left it on. i pressed power on the remote--no luck. i pressed power on top of the TV--the little light came on, but no picture. i unplugged it and went to work. 7 hours later, i plugged it back in. it came on automatically, showing a picture. half hour later, it died again. i can press and get the little power light, but no picture. i unplugged for half an hour and tried again, the little light on top lights but no picture.


my warranty, which i had renewed a few times, ended in March of this year (wouldn't you know it?!!).


with some people selling these used for as little as $400 now, is this worth it to repair to any of you? have any of you experienced this problem and what was the solution?


this was the most expensive TV i will probably ever own (it was a job anniversary gift). i figure that if i replace it, i will probably go for a TV in the $1000 range, more my neighborhood. given that, do you think my 38310 is worth trying to repair?


thanks in advance.


----------



## jones07

Get a estimate then decide. I recently had to sh*tcan a $3300 5 year old DLP Tv, because it would have cost $1500 to repair.

I got a New 55" Sony A3000 for $1300


----------



## mpmp0

first of all, thanks for the suggestion.


second, the beast is back--for now at least. not sure what happened or why, but it has been running with no problems. i have left it on for the last day or so and it is still running. kind of scary that it would go out like that though...i'm kind of waiting for the other shoe to drop now.


if things go bad again, i'll have to find a local RCA repairperson familiar with the 38310. but i refuse to pay a lot for the repair (and probably the estimate too). if it will be too much, i'll opt for another TV.


----------



## CRIMSON PEARL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mpmp0* /forum/post/14105056
> 
> 
> my 38310 finally crapped out on me, i think. purchased 3/3/01, never had a problem till now.
> 
> 
> i returned to my room to find the TV off. i knew i had left it on. i pressed power on the remote--no luck. i pressed power on top of the TV--the little light came on, but no picture. i unplugged it and went to work. 7 hours later, i plugged it back in. it came on automatically, showing a picture. half hour later, it died again. i can press and get the little power light, but no picture. i unplugged for half an hour and tried again, the little light on top lights but no picture.
> 
> 
> my warranty, which i had renewed a few times, ended in March of this year (wouldn't you know it?!!).
> 
> 
> with some people selling these used for as little as $400 now, is this worth it to repair to any of you? have any of you experienced this problem and what was the solution?
> 
> 
> this was the most expensive TV i will probably ever own (it was a job anniversary gift). i figure that if i replace it, i will probably go for a TV in the $1000 range, more my neighborhood. given that, do you think my 38310 is worth trying to repair?
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.



I'll sell mine for $500 OBO. It works perfect, never had a problem.


Any takers. I'm near Harrisburg PA.


----------



## gus738

man that sucks have these great exceptional PQ tv sink that low? mine is in my family room Unpluged just covered







works perfect. if anyone wants to buy ill sell it otherwise i'd keep it to see how long it works without powering it on!


santa cruz/watsonville/salinas area buyers are welcome to to take an offer


----------



## Tarpon65

After quite a few years, the past two as our bedroom tv, I think my 38310 is on the way out. Starting last week, the tv would shut off and then start right back up. This was during a storm, and I thought maybe it was the electric, but last night the tv did the same as well as the screen going entirely blue before shutting off. It did this several times, then it ran fine for an hour or so before we shut it off to go to sleep. I'm going to try to read this thread again, from the start, this weekend, but does anyone have any ideas to what may be the problem? Been a great set and I love the picture.


----------



## ferisbueler

Hello.


After I donated my broken 38310 to eBay I bought a 5265 Samsung. I love it. No issues, no need for the 38310 inspired 5yr warranty, yet.


- bueler


----------



## dbucciar

I've had my F38310 for about 6 years now. Haven't had a single glitch. The PQ is much better than my 42" LG 1080p LCD... especially when viewing standard definition programs.


I just can't bring myself to replace this set (while it's still working fine) with something that won't look nearly as good. I guess this is a good thing.










cheers!


----------



## DaveTinNY

I bought a component switch box from Radio Shack for about $65.00 and it works like a charm for my DirecTV in, XBOX360 in and standard DVD player in...

So far the 38310 has been GREAT - albeit having the tube replaced (under a service contract) about five years ago. NOW my only issue is that the picture on HDTV only has what a technician called a ground loop problem. He thinks it's from the satellite dish. My HDTV in the bedroom (Sharp Aquos 32" 1080P) has no problem with the picture from the same 5 lnb dish. My XBOX 360 picture is perfect on the 38310. I tried different sets of component cables to no avail. Even tried swpping the channels on the switch box to no avail. Here's a pic of the noise I'm seeing: (At least the dog is happy).


----------



## gus738

i dont get it are you saying you have that noise only when taking pictures or you are un happy with the results from xbox 360 and the f38310?


----------



## Matt L

Dave, do you have a powered switch between the dish and the various boxes? Have you tried disconnecting all the other feeds to various SAT boxes? What I'm thinking is that one box is on a circuit with a bad ground or reversed wired and it is causing the problem. If you have a straight connection to the dish and no other things are electrically tied to the dish does the problem disappear?


also, is the dish ground tied to the house ground. It must be bonded wiht a #10 wire to the common ground rod for the house. If not there can be all kinds of problems, this being one of them. If you have a VOM, try to see if there is any potential between the shield of the coax, and the ground in the outlet that the box is connected to.


----------



## DaveTinNY

Thanks for the great feedback, Matt. I've got a straight feed from the dish. Two lines are run down from the roof of the apartment I'm in. One runs to the bedroom (the Aquos) with a perfect picture and the other line is run to the livingroom. I'm the owner of the HD dish in this "luxury" apartment building and no one else is getting a signal from it... As for the grounding, I believe the RG6 cable is the method of grounding; I don't recall seeing a 14 gauge copper grounding line running off the dish anywhere the last time I was up there. After T.S. Hanna goes by, I'll likely be going up on the roof tomorrow to realign the dish so I'll look then.

I just now did another test and took the sat cable from the bedroom HDTV and ran it to the livingroom HDTV receiver to see if the line itself made any difference. It did not. I'm wondering if I should try swapping the two receivers for a "quick" test but now that we're losing signal due to Hanna, it may be a weak effort.

I also bypassed the powered Radio Shack switch box and went straight from the DirecTV receiver box to the TV but the noise was still there. Frustrating! I never had this issue before; I'm not sure what could have suddenly changed. It's got to be something at the dish on the roof; that's my last check I have a feeling.


----------



## Matt L

Just curious, which switch box are you using? I'm using an old RS 3 way manual switch that was designed for AV use. I really need a 4 way switch now, got my DTiVo, Blu-ray, second DTiVo, and my Oppo DVD player and I have to unplug and replug the second DTiVo to use my Oppo. I bought a electronic switch from RS last winter but it never worked. Forgot to take it back, I guess the only option with it now is to send it in for repair. It's the model that can be controlled by any remote.


Back to your problem, I'd be very curious to know what happens when you switch receivers.


----------



## DaveTinNY

Matt, the Switch Box from RS is Catalogue #15-1927. It works like a champ... See photos. The box is fairly old and has been bastardized by me but I keep it behind everything. One thing it was subject to was changing the switch selection when I was tuning a channel in on the TV... I didn't like that so I moved it to where the RF doesn't interfere.


The theater component stand I made up using a kitchen table purchased from Ikea and also a smaller shelf unit (from Ikea) that I have under the table. It holds all the components nicely. What I've done as you can see in the photo is put black cardboard on the lower front, sides and rear... it really hides all the cables my wife complained about seeing so often. I think it looks okay and it was a really low cost dress up.


Yesterday I was going to hook up the PS3 (BluRay) to my F38310 but noticed that the PS3 has no Component output nor does the F38310 have the HDMI input. So, for now, the PS3 stays in the bedroom with the 1080P Aquos. Oh well.


UPDATE: Okay, I swapped the two boxes and the noise is GONE. I put the noisy box in the bedroom on the Aquos and the picture is perfect. With the HDDVR tuner in the livingroom on the F38310 the picture is noise free. Amazing. I'll swap them back AFTER I remove all the surrounding components (Sony Surround receiver, XBOX360, etc)... They never affected the picture before; I can't imagine what changed. Maybe the newer DVR has better internal shielding against noise and/or ground loops.


----------



## Matt L

Glad to hear you isolated your problem!


That is the exact switch box i picked up in December. It was on clearance for $24.99, I thought it was a good deal, plus it was the last one. Never worked, got busy with christmas and forgot about it. I'll have to dig it out and send it in for repair, i think it has a 1 year warranty.


----------



## DyeLooper

No sound all of a sudden on my Beast. Came home today and realized we had a power outage. Sounds works thru the stereo but not the TV. TV just buzzes? Any Idears?


----------



## DyeLooper

Well, I unplugged the unit and plugged it back in a few hrs later, and all is well. Thank Goodness!


----------



## snowman53

I recently was given an F38310 which had been in storage for a while. When plugged in, there is no fan noise & when the power button is pushed, it clicks twice about 1 second apart and shuts down. Based on what I have read here, it would seem to be a problem with the DM1 power supply. Anyone have a different opinion?


Are replacement DM1 pwr supplies available?


If not, what is the probablility that replacing the cap's & diodes will fix the problem? i.e. does failure of the DM1 cause a cascade failure in other components?


Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

Sounds more like the main power board, not the DM1 power supply.


----------



## snowman53

Thanks for the insight Ratman.


Are replacement power supply boards available?


If not (or expensive) are the failed components well known/easy to identify & repair?


I am more of an electrician than a electronics' guy. I used to build boards when they were discrete components and only two layers, but I gave up when they became a zillion layers and you need an electron microscope to see the traces!


Thanks for any help!


----------



## [email protected]

Hello everyone.


I am new to this site because I just purchased an RCA F38310. First of all, this was a beast and needed a couple of nice neighbors to help me get this down my stairs....crap.....I dont want to move this again ( may have to stay with the house when I sell it )


Anyway, I just plugged my HD Directv Sat receiver into it using the component inputs ( only see 1 set) and the pictures look great --- Now I need to upgrade my av receiver and have a couple of question.


1) If I get an newer AV receiver ( thinking Yamaha RX-V450 with 3 component inputs, 2 sets in and one set out) I would have to plug my sat receiver into the av receiver using the component in, then out to the tv....is this correct? This would be the only way to use a 5.1 Surround Sound system that I can see, especially with the limited (1) component input on the tv.


2) I guess the fan runs all the time - is this ok?

3) After programming my Directv remote to the tv and using it to turn both the tv and receiver on and off, this morning, when I went to turn it on, the tv displayed "weak signal" and I had to change inputs .( I guess the component uses "AUX". Is this how it will be? I really dont want to change the input each time I turn on the tv.


Lastly, would it be beneficial to have someone clean and calibrate the tv to perfection....would this be money well spent ( looks prety good now though)


Thanks for any advice and I am sure as I set up my Surround Sound, I may have more...any advice there is appreciated too) BTW, I got the tv and a stand for $275...I hope this was a decent deal ( have the room and cant spend $800+ on an hd tv right now)


Rich


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/14721198
> 
> 
> Anyway, I just plugged my HD Directv Sat receiver into it using the component inputs ( only see 1 set) and the pictures look great ---



I've got 2 of them and they are wonderful once adjusted properly.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1behrens* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now I need to upgrade my av receiver and have a couple of question.
> 
> 
> 1) If I get an newer AV receiver ( thinking Yamaha RX-V450 with 3 component inputs, 2 sets in and one set out) I would have to plug my sat receiver into the av receiver using the component in, then out to the tv....is this correct? This would be the only way to use a 5.1 Surround Sound system that I can see, especially with the limited (1) component input on the tv.



You could do that. I run the component cables from the D* box straight to the TV. I also run analog audio wires straight to the TV and a digital audio cable to the receiver. That way, I only need the receiver when I want the good sound. I don't need or use the receiver for just normal TV.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1behrens* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2) I guess the fan runs all the time - is this ok?



That's just how it is.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1behrens* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3) After programming my Directv remote to the tv and using it to turn both the tv and receiver on and off, this morning, when I went to turn it on, the tv displayed "weak signal" and I had to change inputs .( I guess the component uses "AUX". Is this how it will be? I really dont want to change the input each time I turn on the tv.



AFAIK, it's a problem. I know of no way to get it to turn on and immediately listen to the new external D* receiver. It always goes to the built-in RCA-100 receiver and reports a weak signal because that receiver is not hooked up to anything. As best I can tell, using the D* remote, you have to press the "TV input" button several times until the TV cycles through all its inputs and eventually gets to the component inputs which appears to be the very last one. I set up the TV so that the component input is set to the "DVD" button on the TV's remote. That way, after I turn everything on with the D* remote, I then use the TV remote once (just to press the "DVD" button) and then use the D* remote for everything else. (I don't know if you can associate the component inputs with a button other than DVD. Maybe you can, I just never tried it because my DVD players are hooked up to other TV's.)


There might be a better solution, but I don't know what it is.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1behrens* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lastly, would it be beneficial to have someone clean and calibrate the tv to perfection....would this be money well spent ( looks prety good now though)



I think you can get most of the benefit by using one of the DVD's intended for that purpose. The 2 leading ones appear to be AVIA II (get AVIA II, not the 1st version) and Digital Video Essentials. It's a lot cheaper to do that, and the result is excellent according to my eyeballs.


You don't need both of the DVD's, either one will do. I like the AVIA best, but some other folks like the other one best. It probably doesn't matter which one you use.


----------



## [email protected]




> You could do that. I run the component cables from the D* box straight to the TV. I also run analog audio wires straight to the TV and a digital audio cable to the receiver. That way, I only need the receiver when I want the good sound. I don't need or use the receiver for just normal TV.
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Good stuff - thanks....a couple of follow-ups.
> 
> 
> So you use a digital audio cable from the av receiver to the tv....is that what you meant? I didnt think the tv had one.
> 
> 
> Also, with the dvd you are mentioning, does this just give you tips how to adjust the tv or does it do something else and you follow-along with the tv menu?
> 
> 
> Rich


----------



## eddieras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russdog* /forum/post/14723541
> 
> 
> I think you can get most of the benefit by using one of the DVD's intended for that purpose. The 2 leading ones appear to be AVIA II (get AVIA II, not the 1st version) and Digital Video Essentials. It's a lot cheaper to do that, and the result is excellent according to my eyeballs.
> 
> 
> You don't need both of the DVD's, either one will do. I like the AVIA best, but some other folks like the other one best. It probably doesn't matter which one you use.



question - while it's been awhile since i used the Avia dvd i remember the on screen menu for the RCA getting in the way to do the adjustments-- am i missing something to do this in a more efficient manner?


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/14723870
> 
> 
> So you use a digital audio cable from the av receiver to the tv....is that what you meant?



Nope.


I have 2 ways that the audio signals are output from the DirecTV sat box. The analog output (via the normal stereo wires, red-for-right-channel and white-for-left channel) go from the sat box to the TV. The digital output goes from the sat box to the surround-sound receiver. Thus, I have the sound from the sat box going 2 places at once: to the TV and to the surround-sound receiver.


The video signal goes directly from the sat box to the TV. The surround-sound receiver never gets the video signal.


If I want surround sound, I use the surround-sound receiver and mute the sound on the TV. For just normal TV, I leave the surround-sound receiver off and use the TV only. Since I don't care about surround-sound for each and every TV program, this works great for me.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *r1behrens* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, with the dvd you are mentioning, does this just give you tips how to adjust the tv or does it do something else and you follow-along with the tv menu?
> 
> Rich



It helps you see how to best adjust the various settings on the TV. There are a handful settings to adjust using the TV's menus and the TV's remote.


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/14723914
> 
> 
> question - while it's been awhile since i used the Avia dvd i remember the on screen menu for the RCA getting in the way to do the adjustments-- am i missing something to do this in a more efficient manner?



It's been a long while since I did it. I don't remember having any particular difficulties doing it. 'Not sure what to tell you.


EDIT: I did have to nose around on the internet because a couple of the names for the settings that AVIA used were different names than the names of the settings in the menu for the TV. However, that didn't take long to do. (I forget which ones though...)


----------



## [email protected]

thanks russdog for your help - any idea where to buy this dvd? Amazon and places like that or only specialty electronic sites?


Rich


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/14726245
> 
> 
> thanks russdog for your help - any idea where to buy this dvd? Amazon and places like that or only specialty electronic sites?
> 
> 
> Rich



You can get it lots of places. Amazon. Best Buy. Even Walmart has it.


----------



## hayt

Rich- my 2 cents.

I run all my component connections to my Yamaha receiver, then out to only comp input on RCA. Since I use the TVs comp input 90% of the time, I never need to change the TV input.

I power on the TV and cable box from the cable remote. TV stays on last input I used.

I also use the TV remotes "DVD" button to switch to comp input, on rare occasions when I need to (power outage, mostly) Another trick I did when I used the built in D* receiver was turn the TV remote toward me, press "TV" on the remote, and then "POWER" to turn on the TV. This would turn on TV without switching the input.

As for audio, again everything through my Yamaha, then it's just a matter of choosing the source from the Yamaha. TV never gets an audio signal. Simple, yes, but it means I need the receiver to watch (hear) anything. The only other audio path is the optical out from the RCA to my receiver, which I use when I watch HD OTA (currently, only SMALLVILLE, because my cable co doesn't carry the CW in HD)


----------



## peterbilt

A number of RCA televisions, including the 38310, have a "feature" that cause them to go to the TV input when powered on. If the remote sends a discrete "Power on" message, this will happen. If the remote sends a "Toggle power" signal, however, it will come on to the input that was last used.


DirecTV remotes are a pain because they only use the discrete code, so the TV always goes to tuner, even though what you really want is component.


And yes, the menus obscure a large portion of the screen so using DVDs to calibrate the set can be a little tedious. They are certainly far, far cheaper than having a pro come out and do it, though, so I consider it well worth the trouble.


----------



## eddieras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peterbilt* /forum/post/14740786
> 
> 
> And yes, the menus obscure a large portion of the screen so using DVDs to calibrate the set can be a little tedious. They are certainly far, far cheaper than having a pro come out and do it, though, so I consider it well worth the trouble.



thanks- is there a way around that- any tips?


----------



## peterbilt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/14742387
> 
> 
> thanks- is there a way around that- any tips?



Not much, really. You can adjust the transparency of the menus, which helps a little bit. Mostly you just have to set what seems ok, close the menu, check the results, and if you need to make further adjustments, go back in to the menu. That's what makes it tedious.


Once you get things set you should be pretty happy, though. These sets remind me of a good record player. They may not be perfect, but there is a sort of natural brilliance that you can only get from a big-ass crt.


----------



## jstorer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peterbilt* /forum/post/14740786
> 
> 
> A number of RCA televisions, including the 38310, have a "feature" that cause them to go to the TV input when powered on. If the remote sends a discrete "Power on" message, this will happen. If the remote sends a "Toggle power" signal, however, it will come on to the input that was last used.
> 
> 
> DirecTV remotes are a pain because they only use the discrete code, so the TV always goes to tuner, even though what you really want is component.
> 
> 
> ...



I have a D*TV HD DVR. I experienced this problem until I found the right remote code for the TV. I used 11953. It will toggle the TV on/off using the on button, but will turn TV & DVR off using the off button (and on using the on button).


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jstorer* /forum/post/14750001
> 
> 
> I have a D*TV HD DVR. I experienced this problem until I found the right remote code for the TV. I used 11953. It will toggle the TV on/off using the on button, but will turn TV & DVR off using the off button (and on using the on button).



Wow! Thank you. You are my new hero ;-)


----------



## peterbilt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jstorer* /forum/post/14750001
> 
> 
> I have a D*TV HD DVR. I experienced this problem until I found the right remote code for the TV. I used 11953. It will toggle the TV on/off using the on button, but will turn TV & DVR off using the off button (and on using the on button).



Oh, that's awesome. I quit looking once I got a Harmony remote.


----------



## chrpai

I had an el cheapo ( $18 philips ) mechanical component video switch that worked fine for a couple of years and then worn out. When I went to replace it I noticed walmart had a Philips `automatic` switch for $25. Sure enough, the automatic part behaves quite nicely.


The problem though is now with my wii, the switch and my f38310. The top couple inches of my screen now zip zag wildly left and right on most screens. One screen ( weather ) with it's green bankground is actually quite stable.


If I plug the Wii directly into my F38310 it works fine.


Anyone have an idea what the technical name for this is and if there's anyway to mitigate it without returning the video switch? The automatic aspect is so convient and my Wii looks WAY better on my RCA then on my Westinghouse 47".


----------



## snowman53

OK, I am going to attempt to repair my free F38310 this weekend that has the clicking failure.


I have obtained the service manual, but one aspect that is not addressed is the removal of the electronics assembly.


Could anyone advise on how the electronics assembly is attached to the main frame?


Also does anyone know the specs for the suspected CR17410 diode?


Thanks!


----------



## RCA don

snowman: just read your post and the following might be of some help. I assume you have the Thomson service manual on CD as I do. There is a short entry on the removal of the video power supply board in the manual. The safety diode (CR17410) is situated in the rear portion of the board. there's also a diagram that pinpoints the diode's location. You can access that by searching the diagram file using the diode's position number, CR17410. I acquired a couple of these diodes along with a DM-1 power supply from Sear's parts two years ago as a just-in-case purchase. At that time, the doides were about six dollars each. Fortunately for me, I haven't needed to use any of those parts. My F38310JX4 is still performing flawlessly after nearly eight years in operation.


I wrote the above from memory. I just got a new computer up and running and have yet to load the Thomson CD into my new system. Hope this helps. Way back in this thread, by the way, are a couple of posts by Dr. Joe detailing the failure and replacement of the diode and adjacent damaged components, complete with pictures of the CR14710 in its burnt-out state. If his posts survived the great AVS crash of '08, they could help.


I better quit trusting my memory. The correct poster's name is Joe Floyd and not Dr.Joe. Check his post #182 and most of the other posts between there and about post #220. It's a pretty comprehensive discussion regarding the location and replacement of the CR17410 safety diode. Let us know if you can secure the parts and effect the repair. Good luck. It's a great HDTV and worth reviving, dependent on the cost of repair of course.


----------



## snowman53

I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out how to release the electronics from the chassis - I was working in poor lighting & did not want to force anything. I finally figured it out.


The board plugged into the back of the tube pulls straight back after loosening the support clamp around the tube.


The DM1 board on the left side snaps into plastic catches that you need to release to remove the board.


There is a plastic catch on the right side (looking from the back) of the main electronics tray. After it is released the tray slides straight back. See picture.


There are several cables that need to be unplugged. Most of these become obvious as you work. I took pictures of each one before I pulled it so I could figure out where they went later.


Two that are not necessarily obvious are the ribbon cables to the speakers & top switches. The speaker cable is disconnected at the small board mounted at the lower right edge of the case.


You need to pop the switch assembly out of the case with a small screwdriver and then partially disassemble to release the board. The cable can then be pulled off the header and fed back through the hole.


I have attached a picture of the CR14710 location for anyone else trying to locate it.


----------



## snowman53

After getting the electronics out of the chassis and finding the suspect CR14710 zener diode, I found it to be in apparently good condition. No sign of overheating.


Would anyone care to offer alternative causes for the clicking cycle when trying to start?


Thanks!


----------



## RCA don

snowman: just noted your most recent post. I recall(trusting my memory again) a post early on in this thread by Ratman regarding that clicking sound. He identified a flyback transformer as the likely source. Ratman: are you out there somewhere? Can you confirm this for snowman? Appreciate the photos and thorough descriptions on removal of the video board, by the way. Could save me considerable time and expense if the same component(s) in my set fail.


Back with another thought: the failure to power up could be attributable to the DM-1 power supply module. Have you inspected that board for burnt out or bulging components?


----------



## Ratman

As I stated previously...

AFAIK, the DM-1 power supply/board should not affect the chassis from powering up. When the DM-1 fails, it only makes the "tuner" (satellite/OTA/RF) inputs inoperable. The set should power up with a failed Dm-1 based on my previous experiences.


FWIW I never mentioned the flyback as a potential problem. I directed snowman to the main power supply circuit.


----------



## turbocup

Except for "only" being 1080i and no HDMI, I can't complain. Still working after 6 years. Not bad for RCA/Thompson junk. HD pic blows away my Olevia LCD set.


----------



## Dean12

My F38310 went out a couple of nights ago with the main AC line input fuse blowing (6A ,#14200). I've purchased the CD repair manual and started to diagnose it. I can see a burnt component on the hot side of the main deflection/power supply board. Possibly in the standby power supply but I haven't narrowed it down yet. Is this board available at a reasonable cost? I like the picture but I don't want to spend more than the TV is worth.


How do I disconnect the cable that runs from the back right side of the circuit board to the top middle of the tube? I currently have the chassis slid out and on its side with the tuner and other boards still attached. I would appreciate any insight anybody might have.

Thanks


----------



## snowman53

Dean12,


See the attached pic. If these are the cables you are referring to, they simply pull off. Also see my notes above.


There does not seem to be a source for the power supply/ defelection board.


However, www.tristatemodule.com will repair the set of boards;


"We don't break this set down into individual modules.* The whole thing is considered a DTV306 which we can repair for $279.95 plus shipping."


In answer to a followup question they responed:


"It's the whole collection of boards.* Almost everything from the guts of the TV"


----------



## Dean12

Snowman

Thanks for the source to repair the deflection/power supply board. Your post #830 was helpful. The cable I need to disconnect is a heavy gauge single conductor that can be seen from your photo labeled "CR14710 Location" at #830 post. One end can be seen in the bottom left corner along with another pink wire connected to the board through a white casing. The wire routes to the left out of the picture then to the tube at top center. I couldn't tell if it would unplug from either end for fear of breaking it. If it is a simple single strand wire or ground wire, I could just cut it if needed?

Thanks

Dean


----------



## snowman53

Are you looking at the cable that has a large flat plastic disk around it where it plugs into the CRT? See Pics.


It is held in place by a pair of spring clips.


To remove, pull out while twisting it.


Caution - this is a very high voltage lead & the CRT acts a large capacitor. Be sure the set has been unplugged for several days before touching it!!


Do Not Cut It.


Good luck.


----------



## Dean12

Snowman,

Thanks, thats the cable.


Dean


----------



## freddyd165

57,712 hours and still running like a champ. I am glad to see this forum still going, it has really helped me in the past. I'll still be sorry when this tv finally goes, I still believe that the picture is superior to most still being made today. Unless you start getting into the 3-5K catagory. I only wish I could find a way convert from hdmi to component. Bought a new Onkyo receiver and, while I was thinging of the future, it only has two component imputs. I would love to input hdmi to the receiver and out hdmi. anyone know if you can convert back to component?


----------



## snowman53

Could anyone confirm the proper switch location for these two slide switches (see attached photo) located on the rht side looking from the back?


I think they may have changed while handling & would like to verify the location before I apply power.


Thanks!


----------



## clm811

Hi Captain & Crew!


May I ask. HOW do you unhook the VSM?


Thanks in advance!



> Quote:
> unhooked the VSM to not have to turn down the sharpness to 0 all the time.


----------



## Ratman

Page 3 shows the wire to pull...
http://home.austin.rr.com/doctorjoe/f38310.pdf


----------



## katyh

This is a long shot, but is there anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area who would like a free one of these? Ours finally went into the clicking failure last week. We really loved this TV -- best picture -- but decided to replace it with a flat panel rather than spend the money to repair it.


If you'd like to try to repair it or use it for parts, it's yours. All you have to do is come pick it up -- figuratively and literally! As you know, it's a behemoth! Send me a private message if you're interested.


----------



## Benji2

F38310YX5...purchased in 2001. TV has been trouble free for seven years but picture is now beginning to dim. I will be calling a trash company to come and pick it up as I will be upgrading to a new LCD TV. If anyone is interested in taking this, please send me a PM. The TV has the original matching stand. I live in East Bridgewater, Ma. in southeastern Massachusetts. No charge.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Benji2* /forum/post/15063396
> 
> 
> F38310YX5...purchased in 2001. TV has been trouble free for seven years but picture is now beginning to dim. I will be calling a trash company to come and pick it up as I will be upgrading to a new LCD TV. If anyone is interested in taking this, please send me a PM. The TV has the original matching stand. I live in East Bridgewater, Ma. in southeastern Massachusetts. No charge.



As a F38310 owner i have to ask why an LCD and not a plasma?


----------



## Benji2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/15067941
> 
> 
> As a F38310 owner i have to ask why an LCD and not a plasma?



I've viewed them side by side in several TV stores and I like the LCDs more. Also plasmas are susceptible to screen burn and LCDs aren't. I guess you could say it's a personal preference.


----------



## gullzway

I just moved my Dads F38310 to my house over the weekend. He purchased it in Feb of 2002 and has not had one problem with the set, 52,000 on the odometer. He recieved a Panasonic 50" plasma through a work promotion. Even still, he was reluctant to let the F38310 go. It sat for months in the same room as the new Panny, and he would compare the two. The F38310 still held its own. I never understood why he cherished this 38" TV and was not impressed by my now 4 year old RCA DLP 50". Now I do!! My Dlp's color wheel went out, so he let me "borrow" the F38310 while looking for a buyer for it. I replaced the DLP's color wheel tonight, but don't think I can move it back in the living room where the F38310 is. This set blows my DLP's picture out of the water. I always knew it had a "great" picture, but his viewing distance was way too far. Couch and recliner were 10-15 feet back. Now in my living room at about 8 feet, I have come to truely appreciate the quality of this Behemoth! If the component dongle for my HTPC, which should arrive tomorrow, gives me the output quality I am seeking I may have to convince him to let this "Classic" stay put at my house as it's final resting place!


----------



## gullzway

Hooked up the HTPC to my F38310 with the component dongle and it looks Great! However on the left side of the screen the desktop is skewed down so that there is is about a 1/4" gray bar visible in the top left corner, and the desktop goes about 1/4" out of view in the bottom left corner. The right side is just perfect.

The Nvidia control panel only lets you adjust the whole screen horizontally or vertically, not just one side.

Should this be fixed using the Service Menu settings of the TV?


Any help is greatly appreciated!!!


----------



## enigma9o7

Gullzway, I have the same 1cm gray bar down the left side since I upgraded to the newest nvidia drivers a few weeks ago. Haven't been able to get rid of it, so if you figure it out let me know - post again. I dont lose anything in the bottom left corner tho. I don't get it from my hddvd player either and that's on the same input (switched thru my receiver) so in my case I dont want to adjust anything on the tv itself or that would mess up playing discs.


For me, it looks great playing movies from the pc tho... but it's not clear enough to read text easily (at 1920x1080). Was kinda disappointed actually.


----------



## gullzway

Does resizing the desktop in the Nvidia control panel not work for you?


I was able to correct my issue using the TILT adjustment in the TV menu. But it only happens on the Component Input, so when I switch to the OTA tuner I have to readjust the tilt back to normal. I think I'm running the resolution closer to 1020 x 720, the 1080i didn't look as good and text was harder to read.


I will have to search more to see if this tilting issue on the component input can be fixed in the TV service menu.


----------



## enigma9o7

Resizing desktop works, and yeah at 1280x720 text is much more readable on the tv. I'm just disappointed it isn't readable at 1920x1080.


I don't think the grey bar is a problem with the tv tho, it's a problem with the video drivers for sure, because with my old drivers, I didn't have the bar - instead the desktop was too big to fit on the tv screen (cut off around all edges like it was zoomed in, couldn't see taskbar etc). Unfortunately in my case, even if the TV would allow adjusting just for the componenent input to compensate for the grey bar on the left, I'd still have to re-adjust when I switch to my hddvd player cuz that's also on the component input. I've written email to nvidia about this problem but still don't have a solution. I don't think fixing problems with component output is their top priority these days, most people using hdmi. I wish my receiver would convert hdmi to component, but I guess that's against the rules.


----------



## McGlentosh

My F38310 has been trouble-free since I purchased it in May 2001. It still displays a gorgeous HD picture. However, I'll be moving out of state soon and don't want to lug this 200 lb. monster with me, so I've decided to sell it and buy a plasma at my new home. Any idea what it's worth?


----------



## clm811




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *katyh* /forum/post/15011708
> 
> 
> This is a long shot, but is there anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area who would like a free one of these? All you have to do is come pick it up -- .



I'll take it. I live nearby, too!

I;ve sent you a P.M. with my info. 


Thanks in advance!


-charles


----------



## enigma9o7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *McGlentosh* /forum/post/15136926
> 
> 
> Any idea what it's worth?



I bought mine from craiglist for $300 a year ago. Probably worth a little less today tho considering the price of flatpanels has come down quite a bit. If I were you I'd try listing it for $275 obo.


----------



## adkent

I have an F38310 that gave up the ghost about a year ago. Currently sitting in my garage -- I've tried powering it up, but it attempts to light the CRT for about a second, then shuts down again. It continues this "clicking" cycle every 3-5sec.


Anyone have an idea what this problem is? I've opened the back and inspected the boards, etc. -- no obvious problems to be found.


----------



## jdboss

Anyone in Chicago interested in a broken one of these? The fan comes on, no picture. Sounds like a lot of you know how to fix this. It's yours if you come get it. I'm in Hyde Park.


----------



## radicon

Has anyone heard of the HDfury2? I came across the weblink today on AVSforum. It sounds almost too good to be true. My F38310 is still working great (knock on wood) after 6 years. Here is the link: http://www.curtpalme.com/HDFury2.shtm


----------



## Ratman

Yep...

Between the discussions on the forum and the info in the link provided, you should have the info you need.


----------



## gullzway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radicon* /forum/post/15247747
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of the HDfury2? I came across the weblink today on AVSforum. It sounds almost too good to be true. My F38310 is still working great (knock on wood) after 6 years. Here is the link: http://www.curtpalme.com/HDFury2.shtm



Does that seem a little expensive or is it just me? For $250 you could be close to a decent HTPC that does so much more, and is still useful when the ole' F38130 finally dies. I've been playing Blu-ray and HD rips back on the RCA lately and it looks amazing, my PC is pretty outdated with an AMD 3500 single core and it plays 720p or 1080i flawlessly.


----------



## radicon

Thanks Ratman. I agree that the HDfury2 is a little pricey. Nice concept though.


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radicon* /forum/post/15247747
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of the HDfury2? I came across the weblink today on AVSforum. It sounds almost too good to be true. My F38310 is still working great (knock on wood) after 6 years. Here is the link: http://www.curtpalme.com/HDFury2.shtm





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radicon* /forum/post/15252648
> 
> 
> Thanks Ratman. I agree that the HDfury2 is a little pricey. Nice concept though.



It'll be even more pricey once somebody in the Hollywood industry sues them and it becomes illegal.

Not that I think it should be illegal, only that I think it will be (unless a new Congress gives the citizens our Fair Use rights back).


----------



## vinnyv07

Hello everyone. Hello to Ratman (I remember writing to you about 5 years ago). I bought this tv a little over 7 years ago. I was just watching an HD program when I noticed that there was a green stripe across the screen which travels upward and then shows up again on the bottom of the screen. When I tried a menu with a black background I noticed dull lines that were also travelling from the bottom to the top. Just a portion of the picture looks discolored. Anyone have this problem before? I am very depressed right now at the thought of getting rid of this tv.


----------



## Kipp Jones

50k+ here and still going strong.


----------



## enoree

Bought mine in Sept '02 at CC for closeout price of $1200 with stand, bought a 50" Sammy plasma last year, gave the RCA to my daughter and her husband and it's still going strong and they watch it every day. Never had even a hint of a problem with this set.


----------



## vinnyv07

My 38310 is still running strong. Last week I posted that I started seeing a line across the screen. It turned out to be a bad component wire. Bought a new one and all is better. it lives on!!


----------



## chrpai

After 6 years, it's time ( according to my wife ) to move on from our F38310.


Free to good home if you are an F38310 lover. Otherwise I'm going to list it for a couple hundred OBO on Craigslist.


Cedar Park, TX


----------



## gus738

So are you going with a pioneer or an elite? this HD CRT is one of the best and i cant see anything other then the pioneer to be anywhere near close to it in terms of PQ



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrpai* /forum/post/15349232
> 
> 
> After 6 years, it's time ( according to my wife ) to move on from our F38310.
> 
> 
> Free to good home if you are an F38310 lover. Otherwise I'm going to list it for a couple hundred OBO on Craigslist.
> 
> 
> Cedar Park, TX


----------



## jwheeler





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/15351189
> 
> 
> So are you going with a pioneer or an elite? this HD CRT is one of the best and i cant see anything other then the pioneer to be anywhere near close to it in terms of PQ




Sorry Gus, the Panasonic TH-50PZ85U that I purchased for my bedroom blowes my F38310 out of the water. Just waiting a bit and will replace the RCA with the TH-58PZ800U. I agree it has a great picture but IMO the plasmas, especially the upper end Panny's and of course that Pioneers have it beat.


----------



## DyeLooper

How do we check out the time our unit has run for? Odometer?


----------



## Ratman

Why not read post #4 in this thread?


----------



## DyeLooper

Ratman, Thanks. Unit was born 10/02, age 54,885 hours and going strong. Hope I did not jinx myself.


----------



## Matt L

Hadn't thought about the odometer in years, just checked it. "Born" 2-15-02, just shy of 60,000 hours. Wow.


Has anyone had any luck tweaking the focus? The picture seems a little soft now even with the sharpness up all the way, I'm tempted to try and kick it up a notch. One annoying problem I've never done anything about is the overscan. I only use the component inputs, and I recall reading the over scan via this input was pretty bad. Tried to get the service man to reset it a couple of years ago when I had the power problem repaired, but he REALLY did not want to touch it, told me he'd end up with it worse than it was. After he said that I did not press the issue, I did not want him anywhere near those settings.


----------



## Matt L

Well after some digging here I found answers to both my questions, how to set the focus, I read it's a two step process with 2 controls, interesting. Also it doesn't not look that daunting to adj. the overscan, may attempt it in the next few days.


----------



## jwheeler

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new Panny TH-58PZ800U so its time to say good by to the old F38310. Still works fine though, is anyone getting any money out of these?


----------



## Matt L

Well, I worked on the over scan and I think I've got it about as good as it gets. I did have to tweak a few of the other settings to get it right but it made a substantial difference in the quality of the picture.


Now I just have to attack the focus.


----------



## theapothem123

I have a f38310jx4 and I am having trouble using the controls on top of the tv as well as my remote. I think there might be a programming problem because when my brother uses his harmony to connect it doesnt connect but then the power button works only once, and nothing else. It powers up the tv and stays on fine but none of the controls work. I did some research and people say that the caps on the power supply go out which can cause 90% of the problems associated with theses tvs.

" http://home.comcast.net/~gratajski3/f38310faq.pdf "

I figured if that was the problem the tv shouldnt turn on at all? thanks alot ur help is appreciated.


----------



## Ratman

You have a problem with the remote and/or the FPA. It's not the infamous cap/diode problem.


----------



## jeffsala

My Odometer reading 56879 and born on date of 12/02. This was my first HDTV and still is my primary set in the family room. I am starting a search for a replacement. Coming from years enjoyment with the picture from this unit I don't think I can look at anything but plasma. My primary enjoyment from TV comes from the NFL and the motion blur issue with LCD is a deal breaker from me.


I have two questions for anyone is still involved in this thread:


Have you replaced your F38310 and which technology and set did you choose?


Does anyone know what happened to Hob / Captain Nemo?


----------



## RCA don

This weekend, I'm replacing my F38310. Sort of. It's still working flawlessly and I've got a spare low voltage power supply module on hand if that ever goes but the big beast is headed to the downstairs rec room and getting replaced by a Panasonic 46PZ80U for the following reasons: The price just dropped to 999.99 at BB; I want bluray; I want the flexibility of moving an eighty-pound set from living room to family room with relative ease two or three times per year and...hmmm...I've got a grand burning a hole in my credit card.


A good to great plasma set is the only suitable replacement for an F38310 in my opinion. Pioneer would be my choice if money were no object but it is. a Panasonic, the 46" model, is sized, priced and configured just right for me. I've determined that the red/green push identified as a problem with the PZ line is more fiction than fact. Any reflection or excessive light problems can be minimized, in my situation, by one pair of curtains. LCD, although I am impressed by the Samsung LN46A650, was never a contender. The blacks aren't black enough, the whites are too white and that 120mhz motion control presents an annoyance;not a positive attribute.


Go plasma...for black level performance and color fidelity...for sports and other fast action programming. Also go 1080P...for bluray capability...and clearer text and graphics display at any resolution. But, hey, It's your money and your call.


----------



## jeffsala




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/15602024
> 
> 
> This weekend, I'm replacing my F38310. Sort of. It's still working flawlessly and I've got a spare low voltage power supply module on hand if that ever goes but the big beast is headed to the downstairs rec room and getting replaced by a Panasonic 46PZ80U for the following reasons: The price just dropped to 999.99 at BB; I want bluray; I want the flexibility of moving an eighty-pound set from living room to family room with relative ease two or three times per year and...hmmm...I've got a grand burning a hole in my credit card.
> 
> 
> A good to great plasma set is the only suitable replacement for an F38310 in my opinion. Pioneer would be my choice if money were no object but it is. a Panasonic, the 46" model, is sized, priced and configured just right for me. I've determined that the red/green push identified as a problem with the PZ line is more fiction than fact. Any reflection or excessive light problems can be minimized, in my situation, by one pair of curtains. LCD, although I am impressed by the Samsung LN46A650, was never a contender. The blacks aren't black enough, the whites are too white and that 120mhz motion control presents an annoyance;not a positive attribute.
> 
> 
> Go plasma...for black level performance and color fidelity...for sports and other fast action programming. Also go 1080P...for bluray capability...and clearer text and graphics display at any resolution. But, hey, It's your money and your call.



Hi Don,


Have you looked at the Vizio VP505XVT 50" plasma? It uses Panny glass and has received some very good reviews with street pricing $200 more the 46" Panny you mentioned. I would love a 58" plasma panel but pricing has not dropped below $2K for any unit. 46" to 50" seems to be the sweet spot for plasmas. If you buy this weekend let us know how you think plasma picture compares to the F38310.


I paid $1300 for my open box F38310 at Circuit City which was a bargain from original price of 3K! Amazing to think the we can buy 1080P 46" to 50" plasmas for less money.


----------



## jwheeler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffsala* /forum/post/15593276
> 
> 
> My Odometer reading 56879 and born on date of 12/02. This was my first HDTV and still is my primary set in the family room. I am starting a search for a replacement. Coming from years enjoyment with the picture from this unit I don't think I can look at anything but plasma. My primary enjoyment from TV comes from the NFL and the motion blur issue with LCD is a deal breaker from me.
> 
> 
> I have two questions for anyone is still involved in this thread:
> 
> 
> Have you replaced your F38310 and which technology and set did you choose?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what happened to Hob / Captain Nemo?



I just recieved my new TH-58PZ800U Saturday and wow! huge upgrade over the F38310. Size really does matter! We purchased a TH-50PZ85U for the bedroom a few months ago and it is an excellent set as well. I think it really makes a huge difference with the increase in size as you can really notice the detail more. The 58" was only $2299.00 on Amazon and I think thats probably about as low as that set will go. At least if the 700 series was any indication. Shoot, Best buy sells it for $3699 so there is quite a spread on pricing. I would still like to know if anyone thinks you can sell the RCA for any money? Mine still works fine.


----------



## markyharris

53836 hours with activation date of 11-21-2001. Still running strong...


----------



## glyptol

Apparently I don't watch enough TV.


12/02 18000 hrs.


Chrpai, Do you still have your 38310?


----------



## Ratman

As was probably stated previously, the odometer is the number of hours the set has been connected to power, not watched (turned on).


----------



## Matt L

Ack! Help!


I was watching TV just now and heard a "Thump" and the picture on my 38310 collapsed into a vertical line in the center of the screen. Slight smell of something burning. Anyone out there have this happen? Hope it's fixable at a reasonable price. Can't afford a new display at this point, it would be nice if it's just a board I can pop in.


Any ideas???


----------



## crappie69

Smells like a capacitor to me.


----------



## Ratman

Probably not a "pop in" board. Horizontal deflection is shot.


Options...

a) find someone that is selling spared parts.

b) hopefully find a "good" tech to troublehoot and replace the bad component(s). (cap, diode, resistor... etc.)


Probably time to kiss it goodbye.


----------



## Matt L

I looked around and can't see anything obviously defective. It tends to cycle on and off. I don't want to leave it on too long for fear of burning the tube the vertical line is very bright.


Ratman, can you point to something in particular that I might be able to buy form someone parting out the set? Looks like the main board with the high voltage and horz. output is one piece running across the center of the set.


It's been way too long since I did any electronic repair, though back then I was quite good at it. Just leery of the high voltage. I used to discharge the 25" sets pretty easily, but this thing looks to be cemented on the tube. there is $0 in the budget to replace this with what I'd want to replace it with, the Panny 50" plasma THX certified. So repair is the best option and pretty much only option at this point.


Any and all help is much appreciated!


----------



## Ratman

try to find/buy a service manual for the F38310 and go from there. Sorry I can't help more than that...


----------



## jdre

Try servicemanuals.net, manualsparadise.com, google for service manual, and hopefully you can fix it. Look for a capacitor that blew up (popped top) leaked fluid , or charred components, since you heard a pop noise.


----------



## Matt L

jdre, thanks -- checked those out but no service manual. I'll go to my local library in the next few days and see if I can get a Sams' Phofacts on the set. No luck in finding an online source pay or free.


I did find a dealer that is selling the complete chassis. rebuilt. for $375. Might see if I can renew my service contract.


----------



## jdre

Try Sams web here: F38310 if no luck at library, might even be cheaper than copying. The chassis price is not bad, if legit.


----------



## Ratman

DTV306 manual here:
http://www.electronicsrepair.net/television64.shtml 


Or directly from Thomson:
http://www.thomsonnetwork.com/EN/Pub...e=NO&IBType=ON


----------



## evan2003

Hi,

Sorry if this is redundant, but my RCA has been working fine for 4 years. I went out of town, returned, and the tv will not turn on. The power light comes on and the fans are running, but nothing happens with the TV. I have never heard any popping sounds as others have; i tried unplugging for 5 minutes - nothing works. Any ideas? Thank you.


----------



## jdre

Evan2003: Try google dtv306. Some tips here: http://wa6ati.com/DTV306.html and others. Hope you can fix it, I have only fixed Sonys..


----------



## mpmp0

finally giving up on someone coming to take my dead 38310 and trying to nurse it back to health.


is there anything inside that might be worth me trying to salvage before i call my scrap guy?


----------



## jdre

Try my last reply above your post for tips on repair. Unless you did so already I'd put it on Craigslist under Electronics and Free Stuff and/or newspaper, or see if a local shop can repair it.


----------



## mpmp0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15832005
> 
> 
> Try my last reply above your post for tips on repair. Unless you did so already I'd put it on Craigslist under Electronics and Free Stuff and/or newspaper, or see if a local shop can repair it.



thanks for the reply. if i were more of a techie, i'd try some of these myself.


i must admit, i've gotten a little frustrated. i thought i had takers twice before that backed out. the main problem is that this thing is such a behemoth.


thanks again.


----------



## gullzway

Lately after turning the TV on I have been losing digital channels. Specifically ABc 8-1 tonight. Was watching it earlier with a 56 signal strength. My kid turned it off, I turned it back oN and 8-1 is not there. Still have it on my RCA Dlp with 67 signal strength. Have been able to get it back before with about 5 channel rescans. It's using the same 5ft antenna in the attic as the Dlp. What's going on?


----------



## Ratman

Try selecting the channel by entering/using the "real" channel number.


----------



## WJonathan

The station probably switched channels early, and your signal strength is too weak to pick up the new one. Sounds like the root of the problem is your antenna setup. You either need a roof mounted antenna or a good amp.


----------



## gullzway

Should have caught this before. The signal problem was caused by the cable coming out of the coax connector athe the splitter. I went to remove the splitter and the cable came out of the connector. Replaced it, and now have all the channels again. Tv still looks as good as ever! Thanks for the help!


----------



## Matt L

Update on my horizontal problem. Called Sears and got a service contract. Guy came out today and I was just under the limit to have the TV replaced. Total bill is $752, service contract was $270. They had to pull the chassis, and send it in for repair. Service guy said the person on the phone said they had come across the same problem several times in the last month or so.


The service guy told me that Sears will cover my rental of a TV while it's in repair so i guess I'll rent one for a few weeks, a 50" plasma would be nice.


----------



## peterbilt

How did you manage to get a service contract on an old, broken television?


----------



## Matt L

I've had one on and off for years with Sears, I just renewed it. When I called them to have them come out and look at the TV the guy on the phone asked if I wanted to renew my service contract and I said yes. I got a 2 or 3 years contract when I bought the TV in 2002, renewed it once or twice over the years since then, so I was in their system.


----------



## mostau

After many years of faithful service my F38310 has finally given up the ghost.


Was really fuzzy for about a week and then would not power up at all.


Replaced it with an 37" discounted floor model Olivia from Target that I picked up for under $400.


It was a great set, but it's time had come.


The information in this thread has proven invaluable during the lifetime of the set. Thanks to all for posting.


Here's hoping your F38310's make it long than mine


----------



## Steve Carr

Just picked up an RCA F38310 today... no manual I want to use it for my son's video games via component. I can't seem to find how to activate the component input the directv card that came with the tv is not on I would have to activate it to get Directv service with the built in HD decoder don't know if that has anything to do with it...







any help from the forum would help..... Thank You


Steve


----------



## jwheeler

The component input has nothing to do with the directv tuner. That you would have an RG6 attached from your dish. Are you cycling through the inputs to the component input? on the remote its a small button on left under the number 7 button.


----------



## Matt L

Don't bother with the D tuner, there are only 5 or 6 HD channels that this set can get. It might be worth if you want D to send you a free HD unit as a swap out. The OTA Hd tuner will work fine even if you don't activate the D Tuner.


Did you get the remote with it?


----------



## Steve Carr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwheeler* /forum/post/16253512
> 
> 
> The component input has nothing to do with the directv tuner. That you would have an RG6 attached from your dish. Are you cycling through the inputs to the component input? on the remote its a small button on left under the number 7 button.



Okay great the directv has nothing to do with it.... I tried looking for it (cycling) but it does not come up component anywhere...







the button under #7 only shows up as family, user1 to user4. user3 has some kind of code (****) that comes up don't know what that is though...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt L* /forum/post/16254073
> 
> 
> Don't bother with the D tuner, there are only 5 or 6 HD channels that this set can get. It might be worth if you want D to send you a free HD unit as a swap out. The OTA Hd tuner will work fine even if you don't activate the D Tuner.
> 
> 
> Did you get the remote with it?



I have a few H20 boxes in the house already with the new dish I get local hd channels. I will just upgrade my son's box to a new hd one. Yes, I did get the remote it looks like a universal rca remote like my directv one that came with the box.


I have been looking online at the manual and it still or maybe I just can't find it but can't seem to get component input to work.... WOW...


Steve


----------



## Steve Carr

I FOUND WHAT I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR.....














very happy now.... Man I was going crazy..... In the TV setup menu the (DVD) button is the only one that will operate the component input....


I hooked up my son's XBOX 360 and like Night and Day... I'm not a gamer but WOW the PQ on this TV is SWEEET...


I have one last question though... I hear the motor or power supply in the TV running or some fan or something when the TV is not on just the power coming from the outlet... Is this normal or should the TV be Silent.....


Steve


----------



## Ratman

Fan runs continuously... normal.


Also... hitting the pink "input" button cycles through each input selection.


Get manual here:
http://tv.rca.com/RCATV/NewTV/Templa...=NoModifyGuest 


EDIT: New link for F38310 manual download.


----------



## Steve Carr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/16257036
> 
> 
> Fan runs continuously... normal.
> 
> 
> Also... hitting the pink "input" button cycles through each input selection.
> 
> 
> Get manual here:
> http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...L000033155.pdf



Ratman,


Thank You for your response.... fan is kinda loud but the PQ is sweeet in HD.. SD is okay too... P/U the TV for $200 Yesterday....


The manual link is not working.... I did locate a manual online.


Steve


----------



## 76hearse

I have one I picked up the other day, it has alittle problem with the picture, the easiest way I can explain it, is it looks like a DNA test, you know the little rectangle boxes in a row on the test. That is what the picture looks like, I checked for loose joints, didnt find any, checked the eeprom error codes, didnt find any, called PTS Corp up, they want $306 to rebuild the chassie, so I will just sell for parts or repair, someone out there may just need some parts for theirs, and can get them here cheep, Will have to pick up the set, as the 216 lbs for shipping is a bit much, will let the entire set go for $50


Schaefer's Electronics

Thomson, GA, 30824

706-361-0572


----------



## Matt L

You can get a chassis on Ebay for $140 or so....


Sad to see mine go. AG (Sears) repair said it's DOA, bad yolk. PTS had the chassis 2 times and gave it a clean bill of health.


----------



## vinnyv07

I get the feeling that there are less and less of us as time goes by. Mine is still operating with Fios as the HD tuner. Picture still looks great but I have to switch the component wires when I want to play the 360. I have logged a ton of time on this set over 8 years.


----------



## RCA don

Vinny: I feel your pain and isolation. My set is also eight years and counting; still working flawlessly. About two months back, I posted my intentions to go to BestBuy and pull the trigger on a Panasonic plasma. While waiting for credit approval, I drifted through the plasma section and guess what? Short of a pioneer displaying a BluRay movie, I didn't see a picture better than the one on my 38310, sitting at home and paid for. I'd still like to move up to BluRay capability but I've got plenty of time, as long as the big beast keeps putting out a beautiful picture.


While I'm here, a broadcast request to other perusers of this this thread. Any of you encountered a problem with your RCA 38310's recently(low voltage power supplies, safety diodes et al) and had them repaired? If so, what was the problem, the cost and the lingering effects if any. I'm just attempting to anticipate possible failures in an effort to squeeze at least another year or two out of my set.


----------



## Matt L

I'm missing my "beast". It was a few weeks over 7 years old. We tried valiantly to save it but it was a lost cause. PTS had the chassis twice and swear it's good so the problem lies with the bonded yolk. I wouldn't mind finding a set with a bad chassis to do a transplant, but odds are slim of that. I'll try and part it out I guess


If anyone is interested in parts let me know.


----------



## Steve Carr

I found another F38310 for sale... Less than $100 not working powers up and makes a clicking sound and then shuts down. Any clues to what this could be..? or how much you would think it will cost to fix..? or don't even worry about it..


Steve


----------



## Matt L

Sounds like the power supply problem from years back, but I could be wrong. Many things can cause that problem. If it is, lots of info in this thread on that. $2-3 fix IF you are handy with a soldering iron and don't mind working around high voltage.


----------



## Steve Carr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt L* /forum/post/16369671
> 
> 
> Sounds like the power supply problem from years back, but I could be wrong. Many things can cause that problem. If it is, lots of info in this thread on that. $2-3 fix IF you are handy with a soldering iron and don't mind working around high voltage.



Hi Matt,


Soldering iron.... I think I can handle that if that is the cause. Thank You I will look into it...


Steve


----------



## scott clybourn

This is my first post, so hello to everyone. I picked up a Proscan ps38000 from craigslist the other day and I'm hoping I can get it work. When I tried to turn it on they is nothing happening, no picture, no sound, no clicking. When I removed the back I found a blown fuse in the front left corner of the DM-1 board. Shouldn't the set still power up with that fuse open? My understanding from reading this thread is that the DM-1 controls the tuner. Is there a common known cause for that fuse to blow? If so that could save me some troubleshooting time. Thanks for any advice you might have.


----------



## RCA don

Scott: welcome to the world of 240-pound television sets. Yes, the DM-1 power supply board does supply power to the DM-1 tuner module. But it's also the entry poiint for power to the entire chassis. That blown fuse and, more importantly, whatever components on the board caused it to blow could be the culprits. If the set is truly dead, no fans running, no transformers humming, no picture, no nothing, something on the DM-1 board _might_ be the problem. Visually inspect the capacitors and diodes on the power supply board for obvious signs of failure(bulging or leaking capacitors, scorched diodes, etc.). If you spot something, you might be closer to a solution. You could try to replace any failed components and the blown fuse or, better yet, acquire and install a new DM-1 power supply board. I bought one as a backup through Sears parts (ninety bucks plus shipping) a couple of years ago but they(Sears) no longer stock them. Maybe one of the regulars on this thread could identify a source for the board, In any event, good luck and hope this helps. Keep us posted on your progress by...well....posting.


----------



## Ratman

Based on few quick searches, this may be the DM1 PS board:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...art=&pop=flush


----------



## scott clybourn

Thanks RCA Don and Ratman. I'm waiting for a new oscilloscope probe to be delivered so it may take awhile but I will keep everyoine posted on my progress. I didn't notice any obvious leaks or burned components during my brief search, aside from the fuse that is. I figured the Proscan would make a good project. All it cost me was a sore back and a beer for the friend who help me haul the thing into the house. If I can't get it working, it's no great loss. I will admit, I get my hopes up every time I walk past the beast though.


----------



## scott clybourn

When I pulled the DM-1 board out of my set for a better look I found something interesting. There is a capacitor soldered across the CR 14108 diode. Can anyone tell me if that is normal?


----------



## RCA don

A capacitor soldered right to a diode? Some amateur's tried to fix something on that board in the past and made a mess of it. Sounds like taking a chance that a new DM-1 board might restore operation is a better bet than ever, Ratman to the rescue again: I thought that Sears quit stocking components for RCA and Proscan 38's. Sure sounds like it's worth a $90 gamble.


----------



## scott clybourn

Yeah, that one got me scratching my head! I pulled the diode from the board and tested it with a DMM. The diode reads open in both directions so I'm hoping I found my problem. If anybody has a schematic of the DM-1 board, can you post the vlue of the diode a cr14108?


----------



## Ratman

Double check my searching:
http://www.tristatemodule.com/storen...-10407810.aspx


----------



## jdre

Did your DMM have diode test?


----------



## scott clybourn

Yup, my meter has a diode test. BTW, I meant to say the meter read a short in both directions. The diode should be 3v .5w correct? Ratmans link listed it as 5w but further searchs came up with .5 watts. With any luck I will have a suitable replacement around here somewhere.


----------



## scott clybourn

I replaced the blown fuse and the questionable diode(thanks again Ratman) that I initialy posted about. I can't say the result was satifactory. I plugged in the set and before I could even reach for the power button there was smoke! Now I'm looking at some more fried components on the DM-1 board. I'm not getting many hours at work so I can't justify $40 for the service manual right now. If someone would be willing to provide some values and confirm a few components for me I would be greatful.

I need the values for the following:

R14104, R14112, R14116, and transistor Q14102(face was blown off !!)

I need confirmation on:

R14102 = 19M ohms? R14110 = 150 ohms? and R14132 is an empty socket for the DTV302 chasis. Thanks guys I'm glad I found this thread.


----------



## RCA don

Scott: Sounds like the transformer on that board is malfunctioning and popping components all over the board. I have a CD manual somewhere but haven't been able to locate it since I moved back in November. I'll take another look and see if I can provide those values for you BUT might it be wiser to risk a hundred bucks or so and replace the entire board with a new one?


----------



## scott clybourn

Thanks Don, I'm not quite ready to give up on a component level fix yet. I would hate to throw the money at a new DM-1 board only to find out the real problem lies elsewhere.


----------



## BradTheNailer

I'm a new member here, but I have been reading this thread about the RCA F38310 TV off and on for a few years.


Last week my F38310 starting doing the "click click click" sound of death.

No picture, no sound.


The fan on the DM-1 is running when I plug it in, once plugged in the TV clicks, the other fans turn on briefly and then it clicks again and the fans turn off. It just continues this cycle.


While I'm not an electronics expert, I am very good at repairing things and I I'm capable of using a soldering iron.


Could someone (in layman terms) point me to where this diode (82 pf cap C14730) is located, and where I might be able to purchase this part?


I believe I've found the diode (located near the left/rear quadrant of the TV set) but I'm not sure because there are several things packed within the vicinity of C14730 that is marked on the board.


If needed, I can take pics of what I think to be the Diode and post them for viewing.


I'm having a hard time letting this TV go without at least trying something to fix it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Brad


----------



## mijs

Hello All,

I'm new here. So bear with me. I lost picture on my F38310 last night. Fan is running,no sound no pic.Where should I go for repairs. Love this set, and hate to replace it...


Thanks Jim


Hoping someone can point me in the right direction...ty


----------



## Steve Carr

I p/u today another f38310 for ($69) big ones..... in "Mint Condition" sweeeet.. the remote control was not even used... or maybe he just replaced it... anyway it came with a dvd player and manual. He was on the hunt for a flat screen tv (lcd or plasma)? don't know did not ask..


After buying my son one for his video games. I liked the PQ of the crt. I will put mine in my HT and take out my old front Sony PJ (crt) 722q or something like that... I only use it for my laserdsics. I'm all







's


Steve


----------



## Matt L

I'm on the hunt for a non-working cheap one, at least one that has a good picture tube and yolk, and is local-ish. I always liked my set, if i could drop my good chassis into one I'd be happy.


----------



## Steve Carr

Matt,


I know you'll find one. "They are still out there".


Steve


----------



## BradTheNailer

Wow, I figured after two weeks someone would have offered some help....


I guess the thread is dying like the f38310 television is...


----------



## scott clybourn

Hang in there Brad. It does seem like this thread is dying but that's no shock. Only head cases like us want to keep repairing a massively heavy television that tends to be problematic. I took a quick look at the DM-1 board but I didn't see the C14730 there. The DM-1 is the leftmost board when you are facing the rear of the set. Going by your original post, you're actually looking for a capacitor not a diode. One last thing, *be very careful when you are working on your set.* You said you aren't an electronics guy so I will just point out that Voltages inside a television set can be extremely high!! Take a look around the net for information on television repair basics. At least then you'll have an idea of where not to stick your hand! Good luck


----------



## mijs

I've tried contacting RCA about my set. They tell me to go to website. I check for repair places. The one nearest me ,in Del, gives no contact info. IE phone or web info. So if there is anyone who can direct me to some way to get this set fixed, it would be most appreciated. Why did it have to break just when it's going all hd...........grrrrrrrrrrr.


Thanks, Jim


----------



## peterbilt

When I needed the caps and diodes replaced on my set I basically just started calling repair shops and starting the conversation by asking if they were familiar with the RCA f38310. If they didn't understand what I was saying right away, I thanked them and moved on. The guy I ended up using didn't know everything off the top of this head, but was familiar with the set and seemed to recall something about that issue. I figured that was close enough and within a couple of days my set was working beautifully again.


I lived in Dallas at the time, so there were quite a few repair shops around for me to try. That was also a few years ago, so YMMV.


----------



## 3rdman

Sometime last year I bought a 52" Phillips to replace my aging F38310 in the living room but I just couldn't see myself getting rid of my old set. So (with the help of a rather strong friend) I moved it upstairs where it now sits 6 feet high on a dresser.


Since I only had a single HD set for the longest time, I had HD programming from Dish delivered downstairs only. Well, yesterday I finally bought a used HD receiver for my old set and WOW. It still blows me away with its picture quality. The only issue the TV has is that it seems to be stetched horizontally too much but I might try to fix that issue through the service menu tonight...


Just thought I'd pop in and testify...I love this set.


----------



## Matt L

Yeah, it is a bit off sizewise. A few months before mine died I ran a test disk or two and reduced the overscan to a very minimal amount and it was surprising how much better the picture looked. It takes a bit of tweaking with both the size and the trapezoidal functions but overall it took me 30 minutes or so. Just write down the original settings so you can go back to them and start over if need be.


----------



## lemmy999

Got mine as a remanufacture in 2002 and it is still working fine. But may be selling it soon.


----------



## BradTheNailer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scott clybourn* /forum/post/16492432
> 
> 
> Hang in there Brad. It does seem like this thread is dying but that's no shock. Only head cases like us want to keep repairing a massively heavy television that tends to be problematic. I took a quick look at the DM-1 board but I didn't see the C14730 there. The DM-1 is the leftmost board when you are facing the rear of the set. Going by your original post, you're actually looking for a capacitor not a diode. One last thing, *be very careful when you are working on your set.* You said you aren't an electronics guy so I will just point out that Voltages inside a television set can be extremely high!! Take a look around the net for information on television repair basics. At least then you'll have an idea of where not to stick your hand! Good luck




I'm still watching and waiting. All I need is a some part numbers of (CR14710, C14730, CR14709, and CR14750) and a lead or two of where I might be able to get the parts I need.


I have found one place on line that may have the parts, but without the part#, I have no idea.


----------



## Ratman

If the resistors are not burnt beyond recognition, you can determine the values by the color bands.
http://www.engplanet.com/content/resistorinfo.html 


I suggest you purchase service manual for a DTV306 chassis. Also... if the set does not power up, it's probably not the DM1 power board, but perhaps the power circuit on the main board. As I stated in a previous post (who knows when), a DM1 PSB failure typically does not make the set inoperable. When a DM1 PSB fails, the set powers up and all inputs still function. Only the "tuner" craps out. You may be pissing in the wind.


Sears Parts is helpful. Give them a call if you want to persue the DM1 PSB avenue.


----------



## gibbous

Hi,


Has anyone ever tested for video lag on this model?, even if it was calibrating Rock Band III in PS3 or something? One of these popped up in my local CL and I'd love to pick it up, but I'm addicted to video games.


I believe Rock Band III puts out at 720p, so I would expect some upscaling to occur.


Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

The F38310 outputs 540p or 1080i natively.

The F38310 does not "accept" 720p input. Upscaling to 1080i would have to be performed in the PS3.


CRT's should not have any "lag".


Take your PS3 and test before you cart the TV home if possible.


----------



## gibbous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/16543339
> 
> 
> The F38310 outputs 540p or 1080i natively.
> 
> The F38310 does not "accept" 720p input. Upscaling to 1080i would have to be performed in the PS3.
> 
> 
> CRT's should not have any "lag".
> 
> 
> Take your PS3 and test before you cart the TV home if possible.



It's my understanding HDTV CRTs will lag if it needs to scale. I'm only going off of fubarduck's post.


Yeah, I was hoping to make an immediate deal, but it's probably best if I test first.


----------



## gibbous

Need three posts before I can post a URL.


----------



## gibbous

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=558125


----------



## Ratman

Yeah... old post and times have changed. But... take notice:


> Quote:
> Example 2 (TV: Sony CRT HDTV with both 480p and 1080i native resolutions):
> 
> Better: SNES Game (240p) --> Sony CRT HDTV upscales to 480p --> Small lag.
> 
> Better: PS2 Game (480i) --> Sony CRT HDTV upscales to 480p --> Small lag.
> 
> Best: PS2 Game (480p) --> Sony CRT HDTV displays the image directly --> No lag.
> 
> Best: X-Box Game (480p) --> Sony CRT HDTV displays image directly --> No lag.
> 
> Best: X-Box Game (1080i) --> Sony CRT HDTV displays image directly --> No lag.



With a PS3, you'll be using 480p or 1080i. So essentially, no lag.


Personally... I'd wouldn't worry at all if "lag" is your major concern. You probably won't find any TV manufactured today that will perform better than a direct view CRT. Especially at 38" widescreen and the purchase price.


----------



## jawzzy

well after 8 GREAT years and over 60,000 hrs, with NO problems, my JX4 just won't power up anything....it was working great this morning, then after a 1 hour power outage, it won't power up what so ever...no fans, no green light, nothing







There's definately power at the cord, but no signs of life otherwise.


With today's new TV prices, guess it's time for the junk heap, unless anyone has a suggestion for a "cheap" fix. I've read through this whole thread, and there's alot of different parts for different symtoms, but I didn't really find one that purtained to no power at all, and was fixed without a big expense. I do have "some" electronic and soldering skills, but a quick look has found nothing out of the ordinary.


So barring a quick fix, I live in Southern Ontario if anyone wants to pick it up, you can have it free.


----------



## Ratman

I'd check for a blown fuse. Not sure where it's located, but you may have to take the back off the set to locate. May be an easy fix.


----------



## jawzzy

thanks for the suggestion, but I looked for a fuse as mentioned in this thread, with no luck....anyone else have any insight or directions on where to find any fuses????

Thanks


----------



## scott clybourn

Looking at the back of the television, there is a narrow circuit board on the far left. On that circuit board toward the front of the set, you will find one of the fuses. Try that one first, I'm not sure where the other one is. And of course be very cautious! Good luck.


----------



## jawzzy

if I read you right, you mean at the front of the DM1 power supply...I'll check it out...but after reading this thread, I believed if the DM1 was faulty, the fans would still work, and I have no power at all....I'll check the fuse out and get back, thanks!!!!


----------



## Ratman

I would assume that a "main" fuse would be located somewhere near the area where the power cord enters the back of the set.


FWIW... here's a little more info. Maybe it will help:
http://72.9.159.100/avs-vb/showpost....&postcount=835


----------



## jawzzy

Thanks Ratman, I'll look for it there, but I have some progress....the other fuse, F14100 IS blown, so I "jumped" it to see it that was all it was, but as soon as I put power to the TV, a part blew on the same board at R14110 (I gather the R stands for Resistor?).

Nothing else seems bad or damaged on this board. The question now, did this ONE resistor cause the fuse to blow, or did something else blew the fuse, then the resistor after jumping the fuse???? This is the board that I've read about here that can be replace completely for about $100 right? and any thoughts on whether another board in the TV is causing this one to blow, or should replacing this board only be good to go?

thanks again for the help guys!!!


----------



## scott clybourn

The board you are talking about is the DM-1 power supply board. You are on the money, r stands for resistor. It seems unlikely that the resistor would be the problem. It probably burned because it got too much current. I had a similar problem with my DM-1 board. I replaced the same fuse only to have a bunch more components go up in smoke. Grab a high power magnifying glass and take a good look around the board, you'll probably find more components to replace.


----------



## jawzzy

well I found the other fuse, and it's OK, as does all the main board seem to be










I've checked the DM1 power supply board, and besides the resistor I blew myself, I found another identical one burned out just a bit at R14112, and I now find another bigger resistor at R14102 that has started to blacken out the colored stripes, and a very small one at R14104, and I believe these all may have happened when I jumped the fuse as they all appear to be inline on the same circuit on the board......after talking to an EX TV tech I know, he believes what blew the fuse is most likely a transistor that controls the voltage regulator/power supply. I've ordered a service manual online, and with that and some pictures, he's willing to give it a look with emails...I removed the main board assembly for the most part today to inspect it some more, but couldn't get it all the way out as there are some heavy duty wires for the tube that don't seem to just disconnect as the others do, but again, the main board seems OK as far as I could find.


So question again: will replacing the whole DM1 power supply board "most" likely fix this, or could something else OFF this board be causing this board to fail? I found a link for where to buy one the other day ($104US), so I'll have to find it again if need be, cause it would be worth it to me at that price to fix this TV instead of buying a new one










I'm starting to believe replacing the DM-1 Power supply board will fix this, and after HOURS of searching this thread, I finally found the link again to the part (thanks Ratman, post #925, should've worked backwards







) BUT now I need to find someone near Niagara Falls to send it to so I can cross the border and pick it up.....they won't send it to Canada







I'd be interested in hearing from anyone with 1 to sell!


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jawzzy* /forum/post/16553628
> 
> 
> ...I "jumped" it to see it that was all it was, but as soon as I put power to the TV, a part blew on the same board at R14110 (I gather the R stands for Resistor?).



Ouch!

Never "jump" a fuse... you cause more damage since that's what the fuse trying to protect.










Good luck with your project.


----------



## lemmy999

I remember years ago that the there are a few problem capacitors on the power supply board. I have the manual on CD-ROM somewhere, if someone really needs it give me a PM.


----------



## imwithid

Incredible. I can't believe that there is a forum for this exact TV. I bought mine three years ago (floor model) and when I run the diagnostic mode it states that it was first activated on 11/22/04 and has been running for 27,917 hours. I hope that there's still plenty of life in it left. I have noticed one problem upon hooking up an input (a laptop so that I can view video formats not allowable via DVD/Divx players). There seems to be a short circuit somewhere in the input jacks. I'm a bit worried. I turned off the TV as soon as I heard some sparking. I turned it back on and it seems okay. Has anyone experienced such a problem?


----------



## theapothem123

guys I need help. first of all I have to say that My remote hasnt worked for it so I leave it on and use a surge protector to turn it off and on. Well that worked for about a year or two but now it powers on but the clicking noise that you hear when the screen lights up doesnt happen. What did I mess up anyone?


----------



## theapothem123

I think the tv may just been in the off position, Is there a way for me to program my remote to the tv with it off? Also I have a generic rca remote.


----------



## Ratman

What happens if you use the front panel buttons on the TV?


----------



## theapothem123

yes I did some research in the postings and found someone had to press power to get the remote to work, MAGIC thank you azaile


----------



## vwdude17

Anyone want to buy my F38310 plus it's matching cabinet base? Perfectly working condition. I am in Miami, FL. (Local Pickup required).

Make me an offer, or let me know how much I should sell it for.


Odometer = 49K.

First activated = July '03


Sad to see it go, but wife wants an LCD to save on space. I love this TV. :-(


Let me know guys...


----------



## gullzway

Thought someone might be able to help me. For some reason my digital channel 8.1(ABC) no longer shows up, or it's subchannels. It skips it when I use channel up, or when I input 8-1 it just tunes back to the same channel I was on. I've done channel search(Full and Quick) multiple times and it won't find it. However, if I go to the Antenna signal strength in the menu, it shows up with good signal. I can then exit the menu and watch 8.1. But if I change channels, it won't tune back in to 8.1. I don't see a way to manually add the channel. This is strange? Any advise appreciated!


----------



## Ratman

Try selecting the "real" channel number.


----------



## WJonathan

I assume you're talking about over-the-air reception, in which case you should go to the "Local TV Reception" forum on this site. Look for your city's thread, and see if others are having the same problem. With the recent digital conversion, some stations were forced to go to very lower power signals which KOed local reception. If that's the problem you'll just have to wait until the FCC gets things dorted out.


----------



## gullzway




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/16788462
> 
> 
> Try selecting the "real" channel number.



Thanks, don't know why I didn't think of that. I input channel 10(ABC 8.1 here) and it worked, it tuned in 8.1. Weird, if I turn the channel it won't go to 8.1 again unless I input 10, all the other channels work fine though.


----------



## gullzway

I dusted off my RCA DLP keyboard KBR755TA1 to see if I could get it to work with my HTPC tonight and found out it can control my F38310. Now I don't think this would be useful, in fact it will probably cause problems.Anyone know if this keyboard can work with a computer and more importantly how to keep it from controlling the F38310?


----------



## Foothill

My cherished F38310 is for sale. PM me for a link to the listing.


----------



## turbocup

System test says all OK, ODO=61530. Generally works fine except picture "tears" if background is all white. Only happens on all white screens. May be an early sign of worse problems down the road. It has served me well for many years so I have no complaints but I'm now deciding on what to replace it with.


I see a perfectly working F38310 just sold on eBay for $5.50. Maybe I'll get $6.00 for mine.


----------



## luvhdtv

Haven't been on this boaard in a long time since my F38310 has worked so well for 6-7 years.


It just died a couple days ago. I located the fuse and replaced. More smoke and discoloration from what I think says Secondery Regulator? Anybody know the part number of this? The PartsStore.com seems to have a lot of components parts for this set still but I need a decent part number.


I'm not sure about fixing this set. The bottom PCB looks quite dificult to remove to get to the underside to solder a new part. I was hoping for a couple more years out of this set till the thin LCD TV's came down a little or even possibly the OLEDs (a dream????)


Any service manual info/parts info would be appreciated.


----------



## turbocup

I thought I had a picture "tearing" problem. But I also noted HD TV did not look very HD. Then I discovered my HD Tivo was set for 480p output. Switched to 1080i and picture is perfect (also OK at 480i, just does not like 480p)! Guess I won't be shopping for a new TV quite yet.


----------



## RayLarson

Since 9/2002 my F38310 has chugged along with no problems. A week ago the input banner kept flashing on the screen at random times making it impossible to watch anything. It does it on all inputs. Since I am still running an extended warrantee I called for service. They suspect a DM module (I think that's what they said but don't think the part is still avalable.) I would hate to have to trash the set since the picture is so good. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas.


Ray


----------



## Ratman

Unplug the TV from wall power for at least 30 minutes... cross your fingers when you power it up.


Also... check that your remote doesn't have any buttons that are stuck.


----------



## RayLarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17062354
> 
> 
> Unplug the TV from wall power for at least 30 minutes... cross your fingers when you power it up.
> 
> 
> Also... check that your remote doesn't have any buttons that are stuck.



Thanks Ratman. I will check. Actually it has happened even when I pull the batteries from the remote but anything is possible. Seems that if the set is working except for this issue the DM should be ok, but who knows. I am hoping to resolve this issue


----------



## RCA don

Have any of you 38310 owners uncovered a way to upconvert to 1080i through the component inputs that doesn't involve buying a hackable DVD player or, worse yet, a piece of electronic debris like the Kingwell DVD player that did upconvert for me but self-destructed after about six months of light use? Is there any such device as an HDMI-to-component converter, even a stereo receiver/video switcher that will fool my HDMI-equipped upconverting DVD player/recorder into feeding an upconverted signal to my 38310?


Thanks to the deceased Kingwell, I did see the improvements in picture quality that upconversion can deliver. It ain't Blu-ray level but it is better.


The reason for my renewed interest in upconversion? Simple. My F38310 is threatening to join the ranks of the immortals. It's been putting out a flawless picture for over 8-1/2 years now without a single glitch or repair. I'm somewhat optimistically guessing that I can expect at least two more years of the same great performance. I certainly hope my estimate proves accurate in light of the minor and not-so-minor drawbacks and flaws of the current LCD and plasma display offerings.


Upconversion ideas, anyone? And how about an answer to this bonus question: what's the estimate to half-brightness for the 38310? 30,000 or 50,000 hours maybe?


----------



## Ratman

HDfury dongles supposedly converts HDMI to component.

Personally, I make "backup" copies of DVD's and they upconvert via component.


Bonus answer... shrug. IMO... if it still looks good, why worry?









Haven't touched any setting in my set (user or service menus) since Gregg Loewen was here a few years ago.










For me, I wouldn't even mess with anything on these sets if you have one that still works. Based on the track records and infant mortality of these TV's, cranking up the brightness could put it over the edge. Parts (or someone to "fix") are very hard to come across.


Kind of like asking grandmom to get on the treadmill for a cardio workout. You think it will help her, but... you know how some things turn out.


----------



## RCA don

Appreciate the quick and comprehensive response, senor ratman. The HDfury II sounds like it's just what I need(or want) but it sports a $200 price tag. I've heard about backup copies and I'm going to check and see if I have the tools, technology and knowledge to make the things before I take the HDfury approach.

Your advice regarding judicious use of the brightness setting could explain why my set has lasted as long as it has. I've never had the brightness more than 50% up the scale and the contrast has been at about 70% since forever. I didn't use those settings to promote longevity. It's simply where I like them. Thanks again. Hope your 38310 is still turning out great video.


Dug up some notes I copied from and old, old home video magazine, by the way, and the article quoted RCA as saying that the F38310 picture tube should reach 75,000 hours before losing half of its luminance. Hey, mine's at about 15,000 hours so I better start working on lasting as long as the set.


----------



## RayLarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17062354
> 
> 
> Unplug the TV from wall power for at least 30 minutes... cross your fingers when you power it up.
> 
> 
> Also... check that your remote doesn't have any buttons that are stuck.



Repair guy came (I still have a warrantee) he got numbers he needed, turned set on and everything worked like new. Supposdely he was going to replace the DM module. I never heard back from him. I sprayed contact cleaner on the remotes and have not had a problem for 2 weeks. Guess I should cross my fingers and go with the flow.


----------



## notdeadyet

wrong ID


----------



## jawzzy

the parts I ordered in May to fix my DM1 module have still not arrived, so I ordered a whole new one from the Sears link in Post #925, but Sears just called to tell me it is no longer available, and refunded my money. So with no parts available, I guess at this point my F38 is now DEAD, unless someone has any other contacts to acquire the Dm1 module, or 1 they would like to sell me.


----------



## Foothill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jawzzy* /forum/post/17161956
> 
> 
> ... unless someone has ... one they would like to sell me.



Mine is for sale online. PM me for links.


----------



## sicbud

I've had a few problems with it. Thank heavens it was under warranty so they repaired t free of charge.


----------



## jawzzy

Well I gave up on mine, and bought a new one today, so before I put it out to the curb, if anyone wants it for FREE, let me know soon and you can have it. It appears to only need the DM1 board, but............... I need the matching stand for my new one, but would let it go if supplied with one that will do the same job.


I'm in the Southern Ontario Niagara region, but FYI, I'm driving to Washington, PA Oct 8th if that works for anyone, otherwise THANKS for all the help and advice on this


----------



## dozercsx

Well, my F38310 JX4 (made in March 2001) is still going strong and running flawlessly - I just checked the odometer tonight, and have logged 61515 hours (thats a lot of TV!) and the picture is just as smooth and fabulous as ever. I've got the matching stand, and use a Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD player, a Pioneer DV-563A Uni-player (for DVD-Audio and SACD), and an original Xbox, which puts out beautiful 1080i for a handful of games. All run through an Impact Acoustics 3x1 1080i powered component switcher to the RCAs single component input.


The F38310 is fabulous with these sources, and the system works well together - about the best 1080i system around. Interestingly, the Toshiba is smart enough to use both the HDMI (for LPCM sound) and the component outputs for video at the same time - pretty cool! And HD-DVD never bothered to enable the component lock-outs, so it's sweet HD picture for HD-DVD sources. (However, it won't upconvert standard DVDs over component - bummer)


Only real negative to the system is the darned sealed box fan, which just won't turn off, and is as quiet as a small tornado after 8 years - I'm still looking for advice on how to kill that one fan (there are three inside the F38310) as its the only one which stays on permanently. Simple solution is to crank up the HT sound (!) and put the TV on a switchable plug.


Oh yeah, the other negative is that this beast is 216lbs, so it'll never move from its current spot, unless it's to the dumpster.


Still, I contend that this TV is the high water mark of 80 years of CRT technology - there's never been one better or more sophisticated, and there never will be - sort of a last, best example of the species. They should put one in the Smithsonian (provided they disconnect the friggin' fan).


----------



## Th3_uN1Qu3

Well the fan is rather easy to quiet down, remove it, clean the dust off it, remove the sticker on the back and the rubber circle in the center, drop some lube in, put rubber+sticker back, and enjoy a quiet fan.


----------



## Ratman

IIRC, The "24/7" fan is enclosed (sealed) in the DM-1 module and cannot be easily accessed.


----------



## Foothill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dozercsx* /forum/post/17318133
> 
> 
> ... it won't upconvert standard DVDs over component ...
> 
> 
> Simple solution is to crank up the HT sound (!) and put the TV on a switchable plug ...
> 
> 
> I contend that this TV is the high water mark of 80 years of CRT technology ...



I agree. And on this set, the picture is so rich and liquid that DVDs don't need to be upscaled.


The fan was noisy even when it was new and clean. My set was in an entertainment center, which helps muffle the fan noise during viewing. It was plugged into a switched power conditioner, so AC power was removed from the whole A/V system when not in use. (This has the added advantage of saving about $15 per month on our electric bill.)


----------



## biels71

To the expert members of this forum, I appreciate your time in sharing your counsel. After 7 years of flawless usage, my F38310 finally went south. Reaching out for any experienced AVS experts' wisdom. I'd rather fix this unit than go for the new as I think its picture is fantastic...


Last week the RCA's tube simply wouldn't turn on even though fan still was cycling. After killing A/C supply to unit to let it discharge overnight, the next AM the TV did power back on but things went south from there.


What has been happening is unit works for approx 45 minutes then it simply starts toggling through all the inputs (component, composite, antenna a, front, s-video etc). It will not stop despite using remote control or top of TV inputs. If I kill the power for 5 seconds and restore power the unit does turn on but the TV tube itself does not turn on and all that I see working is the green power button on the top and the fan cycles. I then let it sit without power overnight and groundhog day starts again.


Has anyone seen this failure and any counsel on what remedies it? (next step for me is lugging the 200+ lb unit onto my workbench to look for evidence of blown electronics)


Thx in advance


----------



## Ratman

1) check for "stuck" buttons on the remote or FPA

2) hide the remote in a drawer

3) open the set and disconnect the FPA


You may get lucky and try cleaning all of the buttons/contacts in the FPA.


----------



## adkent

I figured I should check here as a last resort before I toss this thing....I have an F38310 that hasn't worked for about a year. I've read through this thread a bunch of times...but I'm just not quite sure where to start with my problem.


Really, I'd like to take a stab at the most likely resolution...in short, my set powers everything up, then starts "rebooting" every few seconds or so. Power appears to be getting to everything...fans are running, but I get nothing but a "click" every few seconds or so...like the unit continues to cycle or something.


Nothing obviously burnt/bulging on any of the boards. Am planning on replacing the infamous 4700uf caps & diode on the power supply...mainly because it's pretty easy.


Anyway...please let me know if anyone has any ideas, or if there is something that I should specifically check.


Thanks.


----------



## clm811

I just ran the self-test/diagnostics on my 7 year old F38310(46,491 hours!) and other than a message which says "Card Error" it passed with flying colors.

*Any significance to the "Card Error" message?*










Used with HD cable(component) box it gives terrific image quality. I also play DVD's upsampled with with a DVDO iScan HD(superb -_who needs Blu-Ray_?).


-Chas

p.s. _What's all this about defeating VSM (Velocity Scan Modulation??)_


----------



## JabbaTHutt

I don't think that your 61515 hours is watching hours, its powered time, and not powered on time but just the time it has been plugged into the electrical outlet.


The fans, hmmm, you know in the years I have had mine, I never noticed the fans, mine was about 4 or so feet from a wall and also had some stuff behind it, maybe this muffled the sound, even with the computers off down here I never heard any of the fans.


Well I just moved mine to a new house the other day, its in an unfinished basement about 6 or so inches from the concrete wall and man is it LOUD. On or off it doesn't seem to matter, its just as loud off.

I did take the cover off it when I got it moved and man was it dusty, used a couple cans of compressed air to clear it out.


I too would like to change out that fan, see if it can be made quieter, but I am going to try putting some carpet on the wall behind it just to see what it will do.


I doubt you would want to disconnect the fan in the HD tuner, most likely it will alow the unit to overheat and you would be SOL and have to buy a newer crappier picture TV.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dozercsx* /forum/post/17318133
> 
> 
> Well, my F38310 JX4 (made in March 2001) is still going strong and running flawlessly - I just checked the odometer tonight, and have logged 61515 hours (thats a lot of TV!) and the picture is just as smooth and fabulous as ever. I've got the matching stand, and use a Toshiba HD-D3 HD-DVD player, a Pioneer DV-563A Uni-player (for DVD-Audio and SACD), and an original Xbox, which puts out beautiful 1080i for a handful of games. All run through an Impact Acoustics 3x1 1080i powered component switcher to the RCAs single component input.
> 
> 
> The F38310 is fabulous with these sources, and the system works well together - about the best 1080i system around. Interestingly, the Toshiba is smart enough to use both the HDMI (for LPCM sound) and the component outputs for video at the same time - pretty cool! And HD-DVD never bothered to enable the component lock-outs, so it's sweet HD picture for HD-DVD sources. (However, it won't upconvert standard DVDs over component - bummer)
> 
> 
> Only real negative to the system is the darned sealed box fan, which just won't turn off, and is as quiet as a small tornado after 8 years - I'm still looking for advice on how to kill that one fan (there are three inside the F38310) as its the only one which stays on permanently. Simple solution is to crank up the HT sound (!) and put the TV on a switchable plug.
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, the other negative is that this beast is 216lbs, so it'll never move from its current spot, unless it's to the dumpster.
> 
> 
> Still, I contend that this TV is the high water mark of 80 years of CRT technology - there's never been one better or more sophisticated, and there never will be - sort of a last, best example of the species. They should put one in the Smithsonian (provided they disconnect the friggin' fan).


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Does anyone have the service manual on CD that they could share?


Thanks


----------



## RCA don

dozercsx: There is a device that enables you to upconvert DVD's thorough your RCA's component inputs. It's the HDFury II. Just put that name into an internet search engine. I ordered mine through the Curt Palme website. It's a $200 item plus the cost of an HDMI cable but, to me, it was worth it. The increase in picture quality is substantial when it's placed between my sony DVD player and the component inputs of my F38310. The cost was and is worth it to me because I'm no longer in any hurry at all to pop for a new TV and a Blu-ray player. Besides, I remain convinced that I'd have to get one of the all-but-disappeared Pioneer plasmas to match or eclipse the picture quality of my RCA....nearly nine years of trouble-free performance by the way.


----------



## martig

I have been having problems with several DVD's over the last few months when there are bright scenes (such as scenes where there are explosions). It happened with the recent Transformer movie and Star Trek. The picture shrinks on the left & right sides and there are black "tears" protruding from the top left and right. Some times the picture will even go black for several seconds when this happens. It happened frequently on these two DVD's. I haven't tried another DVD player yet but if it were the DVD player why would it only happen on the bright scenes?


----------



## Ratman

Sounds like power supply or power board is getting sick.









Try lowering the "contrast" and see if it helps. But... it may only be a temporary fix if my guess is correct. Get ready for either a repair or a new TV.


----------



## martig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17580849
> 
> 
> Sounds like power supply or power board is getting sick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try lowering the "contrast" and see if it helps. But... it may only be a temporary fix if my guess is correct. Get ready for either a repair or a new TV.



Are there any other references to this issue in the thread. I have not seen any but it is a long thread. I am not sure it has happens on regular programing either from DishNetwork or Cablevision but I think the screen went black several times and I thought it was a scene cut.


I have been looking at televisions but I wanted to be sure this one was on its way out. I can put it in the garage/den (partially converted) but it won't be used. Its too big to be put in any other room.


I am considering purchasing this Toshiba LCD Regza 55SV67OU. The one listed here is the 46" model.

http://www.hometheatermag.com/flat-p...dtv/index.html 


I was hoping the RCA would last until the 3D sets come out next year.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *martig* /forum/post/17582005
> 
> 
> Are there any other references to this issue in the thread. I have not seen any but it is a long thread. I am not sure it has happens on regular programing either from DishNetwork or Cablevision but I think the screen went black several times and I thought it was a scene cut.



Are all sources using the "component" input of the TV?

Are you using a switch?

What is make/model of the DVD player?

How is it connected?

And... did you know that each input of the TV has an independant video setting?


I know this is a long thread and I don't recall anyone else having these symptoms with an F38310. But, based on your description, I'd suspect the issue(s) suggested above.


Reduce "contrast" on that particular input and see if it helps (for the time being).


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Well I have moved to another house, the tv is set up and hooked to the OTA, doing scans with the antenna pointed in different directions the tv shut off on me once and another time it looked like it turned off so I hit the power button and it turned off then I turned it on and it continued where it left off.


Sounds like the beginning of the power supply problems?


I got this unit used and it has not given me any problems in 3 or 4 years I have had it. I doubt I can get a new board at this time so I am looking for exact part numbers on the board, maybe some good pictures of the parts that need to be replaced and the values of the parts I need to get. Is there a spot on the board that I can measure the voltage to see if it is out of wack? Any pictures of yours after you fixed the supply, added heatsinks?


When I moved it I took the cover off and man was it dusty, I blew it as clean as I could with canned air and sucked it up with a vacuum as I went. I would really like to keep using this unit as I haven't seen anything new that has as nice a picture, well the new LED units are nice blacks but way to costly up here in the great white north of Canada.


Any info would be greatly appreciated.


Wish I had come back here a month or so ago and I would have picked up jawzzy's tv for parts as I can't be any more than 30 minutes from where he lives.


----------



## Ratman

I suggest you start simple.

Disconnect the antenna. Power up the TV. Does it stay on?

Connect a DVD player. Does it stay on?


The reason I suggest this...

I had one digital channel that always shutdown the TV (for unknown reason). Deleted that channel, no more issues.

Secondly, (and it hasn't happened for a while) I had a similar symptom where only one channel and only that channel (KYW) would occasionally cause the TV to power down for no reason.


I've had the TV since 2002.


----------



## JabbaTHutt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gus738* /forum/post/13554150
> 
> 
> i was wondering if their a member here that owns this set and the 8g pioneer kuro? i'v seen some pictures of the rca f38310 but dont know who it is.
> 
> 
> also mine is for sale as its only collecting dust and taking space... no flaws what so ever make an offer and im assuming its going to be localy since it weights a ton.




Well ya this message is old but I know when I was in a local shop here and they found out I had this tv the service tech wasn't sure what tv it was the salesmen was talking about so he says to him, remember that $40,000 plasma we had sitting beside that big RCA? He say ya that's the plasma we had to move to the other side of the store becasue the RCA made it look like S(CRAP)T. Salesman says ya that's the one, and they both said it has an amazing picture.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Ya its an old post but man you have the direct unit sitting right one top of the xbox, the direct unit has no airflow through it, you are blocking the bottom of it. I had a buddy that had his sitting on top of a echostar 6000 HD unit and his direct unit started to act up, it would loose all signal and even the picture would go funny on it. Well checked dish alingment but it was fine, checked a few other things and it was fine. Took the unit out and DAMN the card was brown it had gotton so hot in there, also found a cable that was bad, when I moved it the signal popped back up.


All these things need to be open on the bottom and top to keep them cool.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveTinNY* /forum/post/14608585
> 
> 
> Matt, the Switch Box from RS is Catalogue #15-1927. It works like a champ... See photos. The box is fairly old and has been bastardized by me but I keep it behind everything. One thing it was subject to was changing the switch selection when I was tuning a channel in on the TV... I didn't like that so I moved it to where the RF doesn't interfere.
> 
> 
> The theater component stand I made up using a kitchen table purchased from Ikea and also a smaller shelf unit (from Ikea) that I have under the table. It holds all the components nicely. What I've done as you can see in the photo is put black cardboard on the lower front, sides and rear... it really hides all the cables my wife complained about seeing so often. I think it looks okay and it was a really low cost dress up.
> 
> 
> Yesterday I was going to hook up the PS3 (BluRay) to my F38310 but noticed that the PS3 has no Component output nor does the F38310 have the HDMI input. So, for now, the PS3 stays in the bedroom with the 1080P Aquos. Oh well.
> 
> 
> UPDATE: Okay, I swapped the two boxes and the noise is GONE. I put the noisy box in the bedroom on the Aquos and the picture is perfect. With the HDDVR tuner in the livingroom on the F38310 the picture is noise free. Amazing. I'll swap them back AFTER I remove all the surrounding components (Sony Surround receiver, XBOX360, etc)... They never affected the picture before; I can't imagine what changed. Maybe the newer DVR has better internal shielding against noise and/or ground loops.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

I use the remote for the tv and it goes to the last input used.


I think what you have done is programmed in a direct code to the remote instead of an RCA tv code, so give another RCA code a try.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *russdog* /forum/post/14723541
> 
> 
> I've got 2 of them and they are wonderful once adjusted properly.
> 
> 
> 
> You could do that. I run the component cables from the D* box straight to the TV. I also run analog audio wires straight to the TV and a digital audio cable to the receiver. That way, I only need the receiver when I want the good sound. I don't need or use the receiver for just normal TV.
> 
> 
> 
> That's just how it is.
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK, it's a problem. I know of no way to get it to turn on and immediately listen to the new external D* receiver. It always goes to the built-in RCA-100 receiver and reports a weak signal because that receiver is not hooked up to anything. As best I can tell, using the D* remote, you have to press the "TV input" button several times until the TV cycles through all its inputs and eventually gets to the component inputs which appears to be the very last one. I set up the TV so that the component input is set to the "DVD" button on the TV's remote. That way, after I turn everything on with the D* remote, I then use the TV remote once (just to press the "DVD" button) and then use the D* remote for everything else. (I don't know if you can associate the component inputs with a button other than DVD. Maybe you can, I just never tried it because my DVD players are hooked up to other TV's.)
> 
> 
> There might be a better solution, but I don't know what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you can get most of the benefit by using one of the DVD's intended for that purpose. The 2 leading ones appear to be AVIA II (get AVIA II, not the 1st version) and Digital Video Essentials. It's a lot cheaper to do that, and the result is excellent according to my eyeballs.
> 
> 
> You don't need both of the DVD's, either one will do. I like the AVIA best, but some other folks like the other one best. It probably doesn't matter which one you use.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

I noticed about 10 years ago when looking for a larger screen tv, 32 inch that 9 times out of 10 when I checked the settings on the sets that the brightness and contrast but mostly the brightness I think it was where turned up almost all the way, when I turned them down the picture wasn't so nice. Finally settled on a 32 inch RCA but was having trouble with it, managed to get the tech out here once and that was it he didn't come again no matter how many times I called and complained, turned out that someone that used to work there told me that after I have it for so many days I wouldn't be able to get a refund so I called and told them to come and get it today and have a certified check with them or it would end up going through the front window of the shop, it was picked up. But again so many had the brightness turned up so high but this RCA didn't need to be turned to TORCH mode. But I can tell you if you are anywhere past the halfway mark on the bar you are turned up way too high. I can't check my settings as the tv isn't here its at my other place which has no internet yet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *martig* /forum/post/17580160
> 
> 
> I have been having problems with several DVD's over the last few months when there are bright scenes (such as scenes where there are explosions). It happened with the recent Transformer movie and Star Trek. The picture shrinks on the left & right sides and there are black "tears" protruding from the top left and right. Some times the picture will even go black for several seconds when this happens. It happened frequently on these two DVD's. I haven't tried another DVD player yet but if it were the DVD player why would it only happen on the bright scenes?


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Its the only time it has ever done this, I had the antenna pointed towards what I was hoping was Rochester New York and was doing some other things in the basement when I realized that the quick scan should be finished, I went to the tv and it was off, I never bothered trying to scan it again.


I have a Panasonic SAHE100 receiver that goes to the component inputs on the tv, it is being feed with a powered 3 input switch which is feed by an upconverting JVC dvd player, a toshiba HD DVD player and an old Sony Bluray, all worked fine when I was over there today.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17583755
> 
> 
> I suggest you start simple.
> 
> Disconnect the antenna. Power up the TV. Does it stay on?
> 
> Connect a DVD player. Does it stay on?
> 
> 
> The reason I suggest this...
> 
> I had one digital channel that always shutdown the TV (for unknown reason). Deleted that channel, no more issues.
> 
> Secondly, (and it hasn't happened for a while) I had a similar symptom where only one channel and only that channel (KYW) would occasionally cause the TV to power down for no reason.
> 
> 
> I've had the TV since 2002.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

One thing I noticed when I managed to get this tv hooked up to cable is that I set it to scan cable channels, well now that I have my OTA hooked I set it to antenna, well on a full scan it is supposed to start with antennea A which is cable then antenna B which is my CM4228. It says when doing a full scan it will decide what each antenna is hooked up to and scan accordingly, well it found cable channels but nothing over channel 69 and I know there where a few that where over that so who knows.


----------



## martig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17582758
> 
> 
> Are all sources using the "component" input of the TV?
> 
> Are you using a switch?
> 
> What is make/model of the DVD player?
> 
> How is it connected?
> 
> And... did you know that each input of the TV has an independant video setting?
> 
> 
> I know this is a long thread and I don't recall anyone else having these symptoms with an F38310. But, based on your description, I'd suspect the issue(s) suggested above.
> 
> 
> Reduce "contrast" on that particular input and see if it helps (for the time being).



The DVD player I am using with it is a Panasonic DMR-EZ27. I purchased it in January of 2008. It is an upconverting DVD player and recorder with an HDMI output. I am using the component to connect it to a swithbox with 6 component inputs. The switch box is made by Impact Acoustics, model 40697 and it has a remote. Each component input has its own audio. I have the component output going to the RCA and one optical audio going to my stereo.


I found out that the problem is not with the RCA but with the DVD player. I hooked up another DVD player, and old Panasonic DVD A320 and the problem did not occur. However the old player output a squashed letterbox (anamorphic) image and I had to use one of the expanded modes on the RCA. At this point I don't know if the up conversion of the EZ27 is causing the problem or if the EZ27 is developing a tracking issue. It did not start happening until about two months ago. Apparently the brightness was just coincidence. Both of the DVD titles that I mentioned had a lot of explosions.


It looks like I will have to get another DVD player. Any suggestions on a DVD player that can be paired with this one. Is it best to get one that will output an anamorphic image or one that will upconvert?


----------



## utahreefer

I'm posting here because I'm giving away my 38310 next week to a friend. And wanted to see what other peoples experiences have been with this set. So, what an apt thread! It has been an awesome set for me - and I don't think there is another television with a better HD picture to this day. It does well with SD as well. I paid $3,290 for it with a 5 year warranty. Shucks! Never used the warranty.

I just purchased a new Panasonic Plasma 54" Looking forward to having some HDMI inputs. And hope the picture is acceptable. It seems to be one of the best pictures out there on a flat panel.


So, I've been a lucky F38310 owner - I hope it arrives at his house working since he had to round up 3 other guys to help him move it!


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JabbaTHutt* /forum/post/17584414
> 
> 
> ... well it found cable channels but nothing over channel 69 .



The RF input is set to "air" not "cable" if it stops ar channel 69. Cable should scan to channel 125.


Set each input _manually_ and then perform a full scan.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *martig* /forum/post/17584972
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on a DVD player that can be paired with this one. Is it best to get one that will output an anamorphic image or one that will upconvert?



Any progressive scan DVD player should work and provide 16:9 aspect ratio (when properly setup). An upconverting DVD player is not necessary since they will not upscale to 1080i when using component.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Today is a said day in the house, I have to trash my old RCA monitor style TV, its the old 27 inch with the silver buttons across the front top of it, has loads of inputs and outputs on the back of it, has that HUGE remote that will control other RCA stuff and has the channels programmed into the remote instead of the tv. Its getting a little dim compared to the 38310 and the colours a little off, but damn it has been on almost every day from about 8 or 9 am to midnight or later for the last 12 or 13 years, and it saw a lot of use also before that.

We bought it new in 1985, it has served us well, I hate to see it go but I just have no room for it at the new place.


----------



## Ratman

Sorry to hear your sadness... but it really shouldn't be in the F38310 thread.


----------



## martig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/17586051
> 
> 
> Any progressive scan DVD player should work and provide 16:9 aspect ratio (when properly setup). An upconverting DVD player is not necessary since they will not upscale to 1080i when using component.



The Panasonic-EZ27 that I am using with the RCA is not broken. I had to change a setting. I am not sure why this is happening on some DVD's and not others. In the instructions under "Television Type", I had the Toshiba set to 16:9 and 480P (progressive). I changed the setting to 16:9 and 480i (interlaced). Now the issue has been resloved. I am not having that jagged black "tear" bloom out the right and left of the screen. Sometimes it would be followed by the screen going black for about three seconds. I thought since the RCA could display 480p or 1080i that the setting on the Toshiba should have been 480p.


Can you proved any explanation?


----------



## Ratman

Nope... 480p should work just dandy.


----------



## martig

Oh well, I guess it doesn't matter. The RCA should display it in 480p. Thank you Ratman. I doubt this will happen to anyone else. Its probabaly some thing unique to the settings on the Toshiba.


----------



## NewpDog

Service# F38310YX5

Model# F38310

Serial# C263C40FH

Chasis# DTV306GCC


This is a SAT Receiver and power supply module (DM-1) and/or (Part# 250660) from an RCA 38" WS; Model F38310, and chassis DTV306. The unit was never connected to a dish [Cable antenna A/B only]. This is PART(S) only which sells online from $125, or $900 to $1,400, when you can find it.


Depending on where you search this DM-1 and # 250660 is described as the SAT module or/and the IC board situated to the left (rear view).


A&E technician certified on 12/09/2009, Service #: 82791498.


REFERENCES:


Manufacturer Part#: 250660

Manufacturer: RCA (THOMSON)

Description: CIRCUIT, DMA-DTV306/307

4.ued.net/ued/searchResults.do Description above.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Manufacturer


Part Number 250660

Part Number Variations NLA

nla

Description NLA

Your Price $957.89

encompassparts.com/models/?RCA&start=5401 Description above

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Cir Number: 250660 Substitution: 250660R Backordered

searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=PS34000JX1&productCategoryId=0333100&brandId=1262&modelName=DIGITAL-TV&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=50019406 Description above.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


DM-1

Part Number: 250660 | SKU: 18735432

See all models that use this part

Availablity: Usually ships in 1 business day Top of Form $141.9

partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?x=34&y=7&PartNumber=250660 Description Above

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Junction cables for I/C board, DMA(DCT100?) Reciever, Fan, and chassis mounts available.


Images upon request. [Not sure this is the proper venue, but must start somewhere]


----------



## Olias88

Picked up my RCA JX4 unit on ubid in Dec of '01 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. A couple of weeks ago I picked up another TV for the living room and my son and I set this monster on a piece of cardboard and slowly slid it downstairs to our rec room.


The fan noise had never really bothered me in it's former location, but in the silent rec room it was LOUD. So I sprung for the SAMs servive manual to see about replacing it. Was fairly easy to pop open the cover and remove the screws to to DM-1 unit. The always on fan sits in a plastic frame directly below the DM-1. It's a simple 2" 12V fan.


Trucked over to Radio Shack but they didn't have any 2" fans. They did have a 1-1/2", so I bought that instead. To make the fan spin slower and quieter, I added a 100 ohm resister. After carving a form in a piece of styrofoam to make it fit, I popped the fan in and put it all back together.


Now it's not audible at all, and it's probably getting better airflow now, since I blew the DM-1 out with compressed air.


Hope to get several more years of use out of this before it dies on me.


----------



## rt909

F38310YX5 in perfect working condition, purchased in 2001. Comes with a matching cabinet. Anyone in DC Metro area want to buy, let me know. Local pickup only. Make me an offer.


Replacing with Plasma....


----------



## Foothill

My 38" RCA HDTV is for sale and available for pickup in the San Diego area. Excellent condition, unused for the last 4 years, always performed flawlessly with no repairs. Will demonstrate the beautiful picture at time of pickup. Please PM, buyers only.


----------



## enoree

Bought mine in '02 from CC for $1200 with the base, gave it to my daughter and her hubby about 2 years ago when I bought a Sammy 50" plasma.

The good ole RCA has been going strong in their living room ever since, this set has never skipped a beat since it was new,the PQ is still good and it is used everyday,this has been a good TV and I think it was well worth it.


----------



## mjfoxtrot

I live in the Maryland suburbs between Baltimore and Washington, D.C. I still use my F38310 TV, which has never given me a single problem since I got it in the summer of 2001. When I got the set, it came with the matching stand, but I never used it and it has been sitting in its original box in my basement storage room for almost a decade. I have never even taken it out of the box.


Well, I need the space, so I just want to get rid of the stand. If you can come pick it up, it's yours. I can help you lug it up the stairs and out to your vehicle. My wife will be thrilled to have that box out of our house.


Message me if you're interested.


----------



## RayLarson

Wife is remodeling our den and has demanded my perfectly working F38310 must go. If you're in the RI or sourrounding area and can use it give me a shout at [email protected]


----------



## RCA don

Ray: here's hoping you find a good and deserving home for your F38310. I also trust that the wife agreed to a replacement that delivers the same picture quality as your RCA, which narrows it down to a choice of two: a new Pioneer plasma or a slightly-used Pioneer plasma. As for me, my RCA will go when they pry the remote from my cold, dead hands. My set is in its ninth year of service with nary a glitch.


----------



## RayLarson

I felt the same way but "Happy Wife" = "Good Life". I have a 42" LG Plasma that is equal to the RCA but that is staying in the living room. The den is getting a 60"


----------



## Ratman

I kept my 8 year old F38310 and mounted my wife over the fireplace.


----------



## RCA don

You do mean "positioned", don't you?


----------



## RayLarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/18096183
> 
> 
> I kept my 8 year old F38310 and mounted my wife over the fireplace.



In the long run it would be cheaper...LOL



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/18096978
> 
> 
> You do mean "positioned", don't you?



Either way it's an idea.....


----------



## Matt L

Well my trusty F38310 is back from the dead. About a year ago it died, Sears tried to fix it, sent the chassis to PTS twice, came back supposedly in top condition. They decided it was a bad yolk and DM'd the set. They were supposed to pick it up but I negotiated a better replacement price from them and told them I'd dispose of the set.


Anyway it sat in the basement playroom for a year, dark and lonely. I scoured CL for a near by parts donor and missed a few, but last week I hit pay dirt. Got a twin with a bad power supply or something for $50. Popped my good chassis into the set, took maybe 35 minutes, and voila it lives! Spent a few hours tweaking it, reducing the overscan that was really bad to 2% or so, got the geometry a bit better too, need to spend some more time working on the focus, the twin controls are a pain to use.


It looks pretty good, but to be honest all my plasmas beat it by a wide margin now. What I found was surprising is how close the Warm picture setting is to the look of my Pro calibrated Plasma, gray scale seems to track quite well, out of the box, so to speak...


Anyone have any tips for getting the focus peaked? Best test pattern?


----------



## DaveInDenver

We have had our F38310 since 2002 and until now it has been super! The screen image has just collapsed to a 1/4 screen tall full width strip from 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the tube. You can see the part of the picture that normally would have been in that position, and scan lines at top and bottom of that frame, but dark at the top half and bottom quarter of the picture tube. Guys, any suggestions?


I'm pretty good with the electronics, not at all shy about testing, and can make component level replacements if I know were to look. I have the SAMS for the set. I've checked for any discolored parts, or obvious trouble areas but everything looks good, no bulging caps, etc. Maybe a vertical scan problem? Can't read out the self diagnosis as you only get a part of the picture. Sound is fine, all else seems normal. If I know where to look or have a part to replace we're probably back in business, but this is the first time I've even needed to take the cover off the set.


I'd love to get her back working but the budget is tight. As far as I know the picture tube is great, and probably all but one of the circuit boards are fine too. We are in Denver. If anyone has some parts that might fix it let me know, otherwise does anyone in the Denver area want the set? The SAMS? Thanks,







Dave.


----------



## Aonym

Unfortunatley my f38310 is not doing well anymore. I purchased this one from CC back in 2003 and it has been running flawlessly until last month.


Now it sometimes shuts off on its own, and when I turn it back on it cycles on/off quickly 3 or 4 times then turns off completely. I dont have the expertise to repair it on my own and have not been able to find parts or a service manual available anywhere.


So Im thinking of selling it as is if anyone is interested. I am in the St Louis Missouri area. Let me know if you have any interest.


----------



## rsilvers

I have two of them that are still fine.


----------



## Darth J

Hello everybody










Recently my F38310 has no picture or sound, the on light comes on and so does the fans. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## 70_Cougar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darth J* /forum/post/18502317
> 
> 
> Hello everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently my F38310 has no picture or sound, the on light comes on and so does the fans. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.



Bought mine used 4 years ago with stand, last week it started the same thing. If you run your arm on the screen you will find the tube makes the hair on your arm stand up. No obvious failures of components. Closely examined the PCBs and see nothing unusual. I am going to pull a couple of choice components and test them. Looks like tomorrow I purchase a 50 inch plasma to replace it.










Oh yes....couple of months ago the odo showed 58,000 hours


----------



## 70_Cougar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scott clybourn* /forum/post/16379574
> 
> 
> When I pulled the DM-1 board out of my set for a better look I found something interesting. There is a capacitor soldered across the CR 14108 diode. Can anyone tell me if that is normal?



Only a year old post.....my CR14108 has the same mod done and it is done nicely. I also found that the CR14105 has also been replaces as it was put on the underside of the PCB







I guess it was easier to put in place.


John


----------



## locomo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Olias88* /forum/post/17747882
> 
> 
> Picked up my RCA JX4 unit on ubid in Dec of '01 and it's worked flawlessly ever since. A couple of weeks ago I picked up another TV for the living room and my son and I set this monster on a piece of cardboard and slowly slid it downstairs to our rec room.
> 
> 
> The fan noise had never really bothered me in it's former location, but in the silent rec room it was LOUD. So I sprung for the SAMs servive manual to see about replacing it. Was fairly easy to pop open the cover and remove the screws to to DM-1 unit. The always on fan sits in a plastic frame directly below the DM-1. It's a simple 2" 12V fan.
> 
> 
> Trucked over to Radio Shack but they didn't have any 2" fans. They did have a 1-1/2", so I bought that instead. To make the fan spin slower and quieter, I added a 100 ohm resister. After carving a form in a piece of styrofoam to make it fit, I popped the fan in and put it all back together.
> 
> 
> Now it's not audible at all, and it's probably getting better airflow now, since I blew the DM-1 out with compressed air.
> 
> 
> Hope to get several more years of use out of this before it dies on me.



Any pics or instructions on how to do this?


Thanks


----------



## hayt

My old friend is finally starting to act its age.

A few nights ago it started going thru a cycle of "program guide, select, rinse, repeat" until I couldn't take it any more and pulled the plug.

As of last night it was much better, but still did it 5 or more times within a few minutes.

It's almost like the "ok" button on the remote is stuck (it's not- I pulled the batteries out to no avail)

What it does is bring up the menu screen, then goes to program guide, then selects the channel I'm currently viewing.

Sometimes I can halt the cycle if I press "clear" or exit on the remote; sometimes the remote doesn't seem to do anything.

I should add that I am watching OTA exclusively, having long since left directv and canceled cable.

This problem is similar to the dreaded "on/off" cycle I've read about, but not nearly so drastic. It's also the first real persistent problem this tv has given me in the almost 8 years I've owned it.

If I had extra cash I would go for a 50" plasma, but I'm hoping to get a few more months (at least) out of her.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Olias88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *locomo* /forum/post/18638301
> 
> 
> Any pics or instructions on how to do this?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I should've taken pictures but didn't at the time. This thing is a bear to work on, hard enough just to get it moved away from the wall.


But I will be opening it up again. Seems the Radio Shack fan doesn't like to run 24x7 and now it's beginning to make noise.









I'll be taking it apart later this summer (it's not a high priority project) and putting a better quality fan in it's place.


----------



## hayt

Put a fork in 'er; she's done.

As of tonight, she won't turn on. The fans are still running, but neither the top buttons nor the remote can power her up. No click, no nothing.

I'm eyeing a 50" LG plasma, so it's out with the old and in with the new.

Hats off to a great champ. 8 years of crt HD goodness.


----------



## eddieras

hey guys- after all these years i finally realized i could map the buttons on the RCA remote which in turn allowed me to learn discrete codes for my harmony remote i have dvd button as component on the remote and see i can map the buttons for vcr1 and vcr2 - but that's it. how can i map the AUX button? i'm trying to map the FRONT input to that button - or similar. any ideas?


----------



## hayt

If anyone in south Florida Coral Springs area wants my old friend for parts they can have her for free. I'd rather a fellow user take her than a landfill.

I will hold onto it for another week or so.


----------



## AV_fan_STL

Hi all F38310 fans!

Bought mine in 2001 and it finally gave up the ghost. I repaired it once, and planned to do it again, but life got in the way.









Never used the DirectTV receiver, so don't know it's status. I think the issue is in the power supply section (not the HV portion).

I have the custom TV stand for it, and the Thomson ESI Service Data CD.

Any interest? Located in St. Louis.


----------



## pf_airfoil

Hi


I just switched from Direct tv to comcast cable and now notice a light green bar of color 3" wide, floating from the bottom to the top of the screen...hmm.


Not THAT bad of a problem after all these years, but maybe a sign of thing to come?


Doesn't seem to matter the source, be it dvd, ota, or the cable, but most noticable with black and white images, and I like classic black and white movies.


Any suggestions?



Thanks


----------



## airscapes

Any speakers or other magnets near the set?


----------



## Ratman

Did the problem start after the cable was installed?

If you have a cable box, disconnect that completely from the TV.

If you don't have a cable box, disconnect the coax for the cable feed from the TV.


If problem stops with OTA and DVD sources, it's probably a "ground" problem with the cable feed.


----------



## pf_airfoil

No speakers, other than Bose surround sound which are shielded, and are three feet away. Moved 'em anyway to no avail.


It seems to make no difference unplugging the component cables from the box to the TV and viewing OTA and DVD sources.


The green band is barely noticable with a color picture, and only slightly on a black and white (the wife doesn't notice unless I point it out).


The cable installer said he would come back and replace the coax line from the pole to the house for free if I wanted to. I think I'll do that as the cable is years old, left over from a previous install... and he did say he would do it, no problem. Comcast service seems to have improved from the last time I had to deal with them. DTV was great, but I am saving a few bucks with the Comcast "triple play".


It seems to be the TV...too bad, as the beast has served me well, and I hate to think about moving 200 lbs, much less the cost of a comparable a new one.


Thanks guys. if anything else comes to mind...I'll be checking back.


----------



## Ratman

Again I ask...

Did the problem appear ONLY after cable was installed?

Did you also remove the audio cables? Easier still... just remove the coax from the wall.










When the cable guy comes to replace your coax, ask him to verify that it is properly grounded.


----------



## pf_airfoil

Ratman!


Uhh...I never noticed the "green line" with DTV, but I figured that with the change to cable, maybe I was looking at things more critically... But, I unhooked the Coax and the line is gone! Of course then I can't watch cable, but at least I know that it's not my trusty 'ol RCA.


I'll now call Comcast and get them out to change the coax and verify the ground as you suggested. I'll bet I'll be good to go for another nine years.

By that time I'll be able to get a 4D, virtual reality, full wall display!


I should have told him to just put in the new cable when he was here the first time, but it was getting to be late.


Thank you, thank you, thank you very much.


----------



## Ratman

Oh well... I've lost a good friend!










My F38310 from 2002 has finally expired. started having problems powering up for a week or two. Last night, it just powered off and will not power up. Standby power is still on, but no picture/sound and just gives a little "sigh" when I hit the power button on the FPA.


Opened up the beast to look for obvious signs of leaky caps or burnt resistors/diodes to no avail. Even if I did, disassembly would be a major task and beyond my expertise (or patience). So... out to the stores to find a new TV.


If anyone locally (Collingswood, N.J./ Philly area) wants this TV, come and get it. It's free (with matching stand and service manual). IF not, hopefully the delivery guys will take it.


----------



## RCA don

Ratman:


I feel your pain. We're about to lose as well. Because nobody has extended more insightful and knowledgable advice regarding the maintenance, repair and overall use of our 38310's than you have. Good luck with your new TV buying expedition. You might want to take a look into the Toshiba 670u full-array backlight local dimming LED-LCD. The 46" version is still available at walmart's website for under a grand. The 55" version

is available at Crutchfield's for about two grand; less at some other online retailers. It's the closest I seen to a reasonably-priced, seemingly glitch-free TV that matches or beats the picture quality of a 38310. The rapidly-disappearing Pioneers and the black level-challenged Panasonic plasmas are two other (albeit higher cost) possibilities as I'm sure you know.


How 'bout keeping us posted(literally) on the progress and final result of your search for a new TV? My set's still humming away and turning out a perfect picture after nine years plus a few months but it's only one popped capacitor away from extinction. It will be interesting to see what you select as a replacement for yours.


----------



## russdog

Sorry to hear that yours croaked.


I've got 2 of them, and both were doing fine until a month ago. While one is still great, the other one suffered something bad when a friend who was helping me move the behemoth put down his end too abruptly. Since then, when I try to turn it on, it cycles itself on-and-off about 20 times before leaving itself off. During its brief few seconds of on-ness, there is a narrow white line on the screen and nothing else. If anybody knows enough to diagnose the problem from this description, and comment upon the fix-ability, I would appreciate it...


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/19028922
> 
> 
> How 'bout keeping us posted(literally) on the progress and final result of your search for a new TV?



You know... 10 years ago, deciding on an HDTV was pretty simple. I wanted the largest 16:9 CRT HDTV I could find. There was the Loewe, RCA and Proscan.


For the new purchase, I spent hours researching on the net, read reviews, compared prices... yada, yada. I think I'm well versed with the technology, but I am overwhelmed with the makes, models, features, pros/cons, etc. I"m too old for this stuff and have no patience. I have a better understanding what "newbies" go through now.










The only thing I know for sure is that every set has it's "cons".










So as good or as bad as it is, I just purchased a Sharp LC46LE820UN. Comes tomorrow and I guess I'll be bitching on the LCD forum after a few days!










I have my fingers crossed and hope this set makes me as happy as my F38310 did over the years.


Good luck to the remaining F38310 owners. I'll still check in and try to help out as best I can.


I will miss "the beast".


----------



## rttrek

And mine keeps rolling along, averaging ~4 hours/day of use. I sometimes find myself hoping it will die so I can get something lower power, and quieter. Something that supports 1080p, even though I really don't need that in this room.


OTOH, I dread removing it from its 4' high perch on a chest of drawers I had custom made to support its weight.


----------



## russdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rttrek* /forum/post/19041280
> 
> 
> OTOH, I dread removing it from its 4' high perch on a chest of drawers I had custom made to support its weight.



Over the years I've had mine, I swear the things have gained weight... what used to be 186 lbs (or whatever it was) feels like about 300 lbs now...


----------



## Matt L

Russ, sounds like a shorted yolk. I had the same problem a year ago. Had a service contract with Sears and they sent the chassis in a number of times and it always came back marked as fine. Mine had a white narrow vertical line, no deflection. Yolk is bonded to the picture tube so there is no option for replacement.


Now, the good thing about that is there are a few 38310s out there with the common power supply problem and I was able to pick one for $40. Swapped in my known good chassis and bingo! My 38310 has a new life.


In the mean time I moved it to the basement rec room, and replaced it with a great 50" plasma, the only thing out there that comes close to the great image the 38310 has. No LCD crap for me for serious watching....


----------



## RCA don

Matt L:

Question about the "common power supply" problem you fixed on your 38310: Is the DM-1 power supply module the one you replaced on your set? If so, did you notice any sign or symptom of other damaged components that might have been caused by the DM-1's failure. Reason I ask is that my 38310 is moving toward the ten-year mark. I have a brand new DM-1 power supply module under wraps and sitting up in a closet. I'm still debating after all these years if I should install the new module now as a precaution or leave well enough alone until something in the old module fails.


----------



## Ratman

As Sulu would say, "Oh my!"


The new Sharp looks great. I'm a happy camper.


----------



## RCA don

Ratman:

That's great. Assuming your initial reaction is based on a comparison to your recently-deceased 38310, that's even greater. The Sharp 820 is an edge-lit, 120 hz unit, right?

Or is it a full-array backlight? Either way, it's already on my short list when my RCA joins yours in pixel heaven.


----------



## Ratman

Yes... edge lit LED120Hz.


Only been "playing" for a few hours, but HD (cable) looks very good, SD... well









Standard DVD's look great. HD-DVD looks wonderful.


Lot's of user level "tweaks" too.


It's not too soon to say (IMHO), this is a great improvement over the F38310.

(Even the wife was impressed, so that's something!







)


Just so you know, the 810 is a tad less expensive. The only major difference is that the 820 has a glass screen. I opted for the glass screen because the grandson just loves to touch (and kiss) the screen. LCD panels aren't as forgiving as 216 lbs. of glass! LOL!


----------



## Matt L




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/19043726
> 
> 
> Matt L:
> 
> Question about the "common power supply" problem you fixed on your 38310: Is the DM-1 power supply module the one you replaced on your set? If so, did you notice any sign or symptom of other damaged components that might have been caused by the DM-1's failure. Reason I ask is that my 38310 is moving toward the ten-year mark. I have a brand new DM-1 power supply module under wraps and sitting up in a closet. I'm still debating after all these years if I should install the new module now as a precaution or leave well enough alone until something in the old module fails.



I had the power supply problem early on and it was fixed. Luckily it did not take anything else out when it went.


The last issue was no deflection, 1" wide white vertical bar. I solved it by pulling the guts out of a non working f38310 I got on Craig's list for $40. I took the chance that it died from a bad power supply, as so many have. I had a know good complete chassis. 10 to 15 minute job to swap out the chassis if you keep track of the various connections. I also went through the service menus and retweaked the settings for overscan, gray scale, color balance, centering and such as the yolk and picture tube was different. That took considerably longer...


As to swapping out your DM1 module, I'd say it's a toss up. Who is to say the new one won't go bad? I may be wrong but in reading this thread over the years I'm not aware of the DM1 unit doing any other damage when it fails. So perhaps leaving well enough alone is the router to take. I don't know.


----------



## RCA don

Matt L:


Appreciate the fast response. I'm going to take the "leave well enough alone" approach and hope my set and its current power supply module gives me at least another year of use. I have a fairly high level of confidence (aka wishful thinking) that the 2011 Panasonic plasma offerings, with rising black levels eliminated, will make the prospect of replacing my 38310 a lot more bearable.


----------



## eddieras

well, after many years of good service i'm thinking of replacing my rca - what'd you guys think i can get for it? also = anyone have trouble with the internal speakers? i have mine set up optical out but when i tried internal speakers they didn't work. could that be because of the optical out being used?


----------



## RCA don

The going rate for a working 38310 appears to be $125-200 on Amazon or Craigslist, if you're willing to endure a nightmarish selling process. I think your best bet is asking 200-to-250 for it via bulletin boards or local newspapers right there in Deerfield or elsewhere in the north suburbs. There's simply not much of a market for 216 lb, 3-ft. deep TVs, no matter how much better the picture quality is compared to virtually all lcd's and most of the current plasmas.


p.s. That excludes your new Sharp, Ratman.


----------



## eddieras

thanks- i tried looking on craigs list - didn't see any currently up for sale - thanks for the info--i have a neighborhood garage sale coming up - i may go that route.


what do you think my sound issue is?


----------



## RCA don

Don't know about the audio problem because I haven't used my optical out since I moved to an A/V receiver setup. Can't you just remove the optical out setting and see if your internal speakers resume operation? If they don't, I'd guess a resistor or some other component in the audio section of the main board has failed.


----------



## rttrek

I believe that there's a setting in the menu that turns off the internal speakers. Make sure they're enabled.


----------



## enigma9o7

There's a switch that selects between internal and external speakers. You need to set it to INT if you want your internal speakers to work (and EXT if you're hooking up speakers directly to the tv).


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddieras* /forum/post/19148511
> 
> 
> also = anyone have trouble with the internal speakers? i have mine set up optical out but when i tried internal speakers they didn't work. could that be because of the optical out being used?



No. The optical out is independant of the internal/external speaker settings.

FWIW, my internal audio/speakers stopped working ~2 years ago. To me, it wasn't worth the expense to get repaired. Just used optical out till the F38310 completely died. If the previous recommendations don't work out for you, then you may have the same problem I had.


I guess the good thing is... I will probably see a nice reduction on my electric bill since I don't have to power "the beast" and an AVR now that I have a new TV.


----------



## eddieras

thanks for the info - i forgot about the speaker switch on the back -however -nothing worked - switch on back or via settings. i guess my speakers crapped out too! i hope to sell it and i guess who buys it will have to go the av receiver route!


----------



## eddieras

ok - i'm feeling stupid now- after trying all the above to get my internal speakers to work it finally dawned on me - i don't have any audio sources attached! i hooked up antenna - ran the scan and voila - sound! however, i noticed it was really really slow to tune the ota channels and actually inconsistent. wouldn't always tune a channel. if i remember correctly i'm better off NOT acquiring off air guides, correct? i also heard a loud clicking noise once in a while when trying to tune in a channel = any ideas what _that_ is?


----------



## Ratman

Off-air guides is better IMO. It properly "maps" the OTA real channels to the virtual channels.


Is tuning slow(er)? You bet. It's almost a 20 year old tuner/technology. Takes a while to sync up with the signal. Small price to pay for good picture quality IMO.


Inconsistency? Could be poor signal/antenna.


Clicking? From internal speakers or external audio device? FWIW, I never heard clicking when using an antenna for internal or external speakers.


----------



## eddieras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/19195798
> 
> 
> Off-air guides is better IMO. It properly "maps" the OTA real channels to the virtual channels.
> 
> 
> Is tuning slow(er)? You bet. It's almost a 20 year old tuner/technology. Takes a while to sync up with the signal. Small price to pay for good picture quality IMO.
> 
> 
> Inconsistency? Could be poor signal/antenna.
> 
> 
> Clicking? From internal speakers or external audio device? FWIW, I never heard clicking when using an antenna for internal or external speakers.



thanks for the quick reply - i'm looking to sell it and want to be sure i get it going best i can.

i thought i remember something along time ago about not getting the off air guides- i could be wrong. the clicking came (however inconsistently) after hooking up the OTA directly to the RCA - nothing else hooked up - no ext speakers.

i'm leaning to the inconsistency on the channel acquisition as the unit itself as i get perfect ota thru my dish receiver - always 90- 100% strength. maybe it just needs to warm up a bit!


----------



## jnash

Hi

I have had this set almost 10 years and still love it.

F38310 buttons on the top and cued up as if its pressing buttons all by itself. I suspect the top board assembly above the screen where the button and infrared receiver are are now faulty.


If anyone has the schematic for this or knows of this fault and how to fix it I sure would be very appreciative of any help.


I plan in pulling it tonight and looking for bad solder joints but other than that I am not sure what else to do. If you have this part lying button assembly scrap I would be interested in buying it from you.


cheers

Jim [email protected]


----------



## eddieras

hey guys- it's been a ride- just sold my RCA for $100 to a neighbor-- took 4 of us to carry the damn thing out and now i have back surgery on tuesday! no joke- got a samsung 58" plasma... good luck to you all!!


----------



## jeffsala

I just purchased a Samsung 46C6900 LED display to replace my RCA F38310. We moved my F38310 upstairs in my daughter's room to be DVD display. Yes it is still working like a champ!! The RCA was purchased 10 years ago from Circuit City open box and it took a lot of playing with service menu to fix the geometry issues that it had once it set up. Without the knowledge from this forum and how to access the service menu I would have returned the unit. Once it was adjusted I have not had a single issue with the RCA.


I can honestly say that the Samsung LED is a big improvement in picture quality. It can display 1080p / 24 fps sources without an issue and it has internet access features Vudu and Netflix. The picture is dazzling and I not experiencing any issues with motion blur that I feared.


All that being said I feel that buying the Samsung I felt a little like I was betraying an old friend. The genesis of that 38 in tube was in the old RCA/Thompson CRT plant in Lancaster, PA. I remember walking into the lobby of the plant as a vendor and marveling F38310 that was on display. I talked to the engineers that on the development team who were upset that weren't allowed to redesign the display to be flat before introduction!! It was their last tube design to my knowledge.


The Lancaster RCA/Thompson plant has been closed for years and Circuit City is now closed as well. Sometimes progress is painful thing.


----------



## enigma9o7

Flatscreen woulda been cool. I wonder what was the biggest flatscreen widescreen crt? I know there were 34"'s cuz my brother's got one...


----------



## turbocup

It now says 8225. It must really be 108,225! This damn thing won't fail. Still creates a STUNNING 1080i picture. Visitors are blown away when they see the pic quality. I really want a new big flatscreen (with HDMI inputs!) but will be a hard sell with the wife as long as this old beast is still working like a champ!


F38310, vintage 1993.

FIOS

Tivo Premiere w/cablecard (Internet connected)

LG BD370 Blu-ray player

Dynex remote control component video switchbox


----------



## turbocup

"F38310, vintage 1993."


Of course I meant 2003! Let's see, I think I bought my Sony XBR in 1993. That was actually a GREAT set in its day.


----------



## Mr.Victor

I've had mine since January 2002 and its still going strong. The wife decided it was time for a bigger, thinner model, so if anyone wants this one just let me know. I'm in the SW suburbs of Chicago.


----------



## rsilvers

I still have my two working. It has too much overscan though, unless that is the cable box.


----------



## ranman37

I've had this TV for 8 years. When i bought it, it had a better picture than anything else in the store.

Its just as good today as it was then.

I want a bigger screen but i have to sell this first.


----------



## enigma9o7

Mine looks awesome for OTA HDTV. For some reason it doesn't look nearly as good from my computer at 1920x1080. I resized my desktop to 1280x720 (while still outputting 1080i) just to be able to read text clearly.


----------



## turbocup

The Big Screen Store will give me $200 trade for my F38310 AND HAUL IT AWAY (that's the best part). I wish the old set was no longer working perfectly but it is. But I think it's time to get a current technology set with 1080p and HDMI. Not sure if I'll go LCD, LED/LCD, plasma, 3D or whatever but in any case it will be in the 54" to 60" range. Guess my final post on this thread will be what I wind up with as the replacement for my trusty old F38310 which I have certainly got my money's worth out of since 2003.


----------



## rsilvers

I am going to scrap mine now. If anyone wants one in MA you can have it. It is working.


----------



## ppasteur

I went through three of them for screen defects and the last one had the CRT replaced. It was from the last production run. From then on it was perfect. I gave it away to a couple of college kids for their dorm room about a year ago. They had to haul it up three flights of stairs!! I talked to one of them a couple of weeks ago and it is still going strong. I replaced it with, first a 55" LED LCD, then moved that (very good BTW) set to my den and put a 60" plasma in it's place. The plasma comes closest to the venerable F38310.


I almost moved the F38310 to my bedroom. Not enough space or anything strong enough to hold it... but that is how much I liked the monster...


Phil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turbocup* /forum/post/20038622
> 
> 
> The Big Screen Store will give me $200 trade for my F38310 AND HAUL IT AWAY (that's the best part). I wish the old set was no longer working perfectly but it is. But I think it's time to get a current technology set with 1080p and HDMI. Not sure if I'll go LCD, LED/LCD, plasma, 3D or whatever but in any case it will be in the 54" to 60" range. Guess my final post on this thread will be what I wind up with as the replacement for my trusty old F38310 which I have certainly got my money's worth out of since 2003.


----------



## turbocup

After looking at several sets in 3 stores I settled on a 52" 240 Hz Sharp Aquos Quattron (LC52LE920UN). I was rather sceptical of the "yellow pixel" gimmick on the TV commercials but colors definitely looked better in the store...especially yellows (duh!), greens and blues. About 3 hours ago they delivered my new set and hauled away my beloved F38310 with 107,225 hours on the odo (a moment of silence please) to be recycled. The new Quattron looked great off the HDMI connection to my Tivo Premiere. I then checked it out on a couple of Blu-Rays (Avatar and Inception). In the words of Mr. Sulu: "Oh My!". The PQ is amazing and black levels come close (but will never match) my F38310. I have yet to try it on line (it comes with Wi-Fi adapter) with net material like NetFlix but so far I'm very happy! I'll still miss the old RCA though...it served me well for many years. Sort of sad it will be ground up for scrap metal. :-((


----------



## eddieras

my condolences - i lost my F38310 in October


----------



## rsilvers

Remind me how to check my hour meter?


----------



## Ratman

refer to post #4 in this thread.


----------



## rsilvers

4988 hours.


----------



## Ratman

Doesn't sound right. That would mean your TV has been "plugged in" for only 208 days.


----------



## MF70

This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?


----------



## rsilvers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/20046902
> 
> 
> Doesn't sound right. That would mean your TV has been "plugged in" for only 208 days.



I thought it is the number of hours while on?


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MF70* /forum/post/20046958
> 
> 
> This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?



Donate to a charity.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsilvers* /forum/post/20047194
> 
> 
> I thought it is the number of hours while on?



Nope... plugged in.


----------



## enigma9o7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MF70* /forum/post/20046958
> 
> 
> This 38-inch HDTV is big and heavy, and I would like to know how I might be able to dispose of one that is still working since April of 2001? I live in Walnut Creek, California. Any sugestions?



Sell it cheap on craigslist.


----------



## eddieras

i got $100 for mine


----------



## enigma9o7

I paid 350 for mine, with stand. But that was 3 years ago. If it broke today and there was one on craigslist for $100, I'd buy it. I'd even drive to Walnut Creek for it










In fact, I just moved about a month ago, and two funky things have been happening since I hooked it back up... twice it's started turning itself off and on... both times I unplugged it, let it sit (until I wanted to watch it) then plugged it back in and it was fine.


The other problem I think is more likely my onkyo avr than the tv. Sometimes when I use my avr to switch component inputs to the tv (like from pc to bd) then the bottom half of the tv is all covered in pink and black lines for 10-30 seconds. Never ever had that happen before I moved.


So maybe if you're lucky (and I'm not) it'll completely crap out on me next time I watch it (or I'll come home to find it turning itself on and off again and it won't fix itself with a simulated power failure).


----------



## rsilvers

Well I just gave mine away on Craigslist. Better than paying someone to carry it out. 3 people called soon after posting it.


----------



## turbocup

It rolls over at 100000 like the odo on an old car. Add 100,000 to your number.


----------



## rsilvers

I barely used it. Pretty much the only time it got used was when my wife's parents visited a few times a year.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turbocup* /forum/post/20065943
> 
> 
> It rolls over at 100000 like the odo on an old car. Add 100,000 to your number.



Perhaps... but that equates (if my math is correct) to the TV connected to power for 12 years.










104988 / 24 = 4374.5 days

4374.5 / 365 = 11.98 years


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Is there still anyone here that is still using this beautiful tv?


----------



## peterbilt

Heck yes! Still the biggest TV in the house. It isn't the most used TV in the house, but it's still the best.


----------



## rsilvers

The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.


----------



## rttrek

I just gave away my working unit. I measured its electrical use, then got a Samsung 42" LCD LED TV.


----------



## Ratman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rsilvers* 
The thing that bugged me about mine was way too much overscan. Once you have a flat panel and see the entire picture it makes it hard to tolerate overscan.
Actually... that was easily resolved in the service menu. Performed geometry and overscan adjustments on mine back in 2002.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Heya Matt, I know this is old but I would love to have this info as mine is getting a little out of focus also.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt L* /forum/post/15517873
> 
> 
> Well after some digging here I found answers to both my questions, how to set the focus, I read it's a two step process with 2 controls, interesting. Also it doesn't not look that daunting to adj. the overscan, may attempt it in the next few days.


----------



## Ratman

Post #299.


Two access holes on the back of the TV. Be careful.


----------



## RCA don

My 38310 was replaced as my primary TV by a 46" Toshiba g300u which I'm nuts about. the RCA is sitting in the spare bedroom, powered up and awaiting its next mission. It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310. I'm still going to try the geometry and focus adjustments discussed here. It's been and continues to be a great TV. But, as Ratman and now I can attest, there's life after the 38310 and, for both of us, that led to a couple of often overlooked LCD's from Sharp and Toshiba.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/20088900
> 
> 
> It took the new Toshiba to reveal the decline in brightness and possible focus loss that the years of great performance have produced in my 38310.



I'll back that statement.

Although I loved the picture quality of the F38310 (real blacks especially), after I got the Sharp, I didn't realize how much the focus and brighness had gone slightly "off whack".


I guess the trade-offs (comparing LCD to CRT) are a substantially less weight and footprint, larger screen size, more inputs, more/better features, etc. All for a lot less money than I spent in 2002 for the F38310 and the matching stand. Which BTW, I still use with my Sharp and looks great (I only had to remove the locking pins from the top).


----------



## JabbaTHutt

I have been through this thread once and partially again looking to find how to enter the service mode to see if I can reduce the overscan, sorry I would love a new tv but being on a disability there isn't much left at the end of the month if anything.


So yes I have been into the part with the 3 fingers thing but didn't find how to get into the menu from there to make changes..


My service date 11/08/2002

in service counter is 2462 or 11.6 years


I also found these errors


Errors Stored in EEPROM


Television errors:

01/02/1970 at 09:38 code 0x010000b0

04/06/2010 at 20:04 code 0xfff08820

04/06/2010 at 20:18 code 0xfff08820


Digital Module errors:

11/10/2002 at 19:00 code 0x010000b0

11/18/2002 at 01:22 code 0x010000b0

01/10/2003 at 02:54 code 0x010000b0


Anyone know what they all mean?


Thanks


----------



## Ratman

Read from post #729... process is explained.


don't worry about the eeprom error codes.


----------



## JabbaTHutt

Ok I must be some kind of an idiot.


The tv has been on for a few hours now, I just the I use the ch down and direct tv buttons and I get the bar across the bottom with the version of I think it is


Version Number: 04.14 P: 0 V: 0


Post 731 says I need some kind of a publication that is no longer available.


In post 735 it says to pres VOL + to change the P: 0 to 76, all it seems to do for me is bring up an ugly volume control on the top of the screen and blank out the screen, I have tried this on the panel on the tv and on the remote and I can't get the P: 0 to change.


----------



## Ratman

It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.

The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.

I don't know what you may be doing incorrectly.


Once you get past the passcode, the following post explain the parameters to adjust position adjustments. Just read more of the posts in this thread.

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpo...58&postcount=5 


Found this from an earlier post:

Horizontal size (P:05)

Horizontal position (P:04)

Vertical size (P:11)

Veritical position (P:10 course)

Vertical position (P:13 fine)

pincushion/parabola (P:07)

Top corners - pincushion (P:09)


----------



## mike8712

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Ratman* 
It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.

The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
*Wow!* I am so glad to have stumbled upon this thread. I've had my F38310 right at 10 years and it's still performing like a champ, but unfortunately it is pretty fuzzy around text and it needs some adjustments in the worst way.


Ratman, I was able to pull up the service menu based on this but I experienced what someone else mentioned - I can get it to "76", but then what? Nothing happens. I try all sorts of buttons on the remote and tv itself but can't seem to "enter" that selection. Does anyone have any idea on what to try?


I would love to get this corrected to these settings and see if it can make it a little longer before finally upgrading - it's been a great set and I can't believe it's been 10 years!


----------



## Matt L

Somewhere in this thread is the info you need on getting into the service menu, but you'll have to search. There is a link to a .pdf file here or online somewhere with all the various settings spelled out, been too long have no idea where I got it.


Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.


Mine is relegated to the basement for occasional use or when family comes over with game boxes, I really much prefer my other displays over the 38310, since all of them are bigger.


----------



## Ratman

There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.


Refer to the info in the link provided in post #1124.


----------



## mike8712




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Matt L* /forum/post/20339178
> 
> 
> Anyway, you do not need the service menu to adjust focus. there are 2 controls on the back right of the set that you can tweak for focus. They interact substantially so it will take a fair amount of time and a large mirror but you can get a very sharp image back by this method as long as there is nothing else wrong with the set.



Thanks Matt! I did some research last night and found the .pdf - now, the trouble will be getting to the back of the monster. We've had it in a entertainment center from pottery barn that you would think was designed for this exact model tv - very deep and the dimensions fit it perfectly. Only problem is trying to get it turned to work on the back. Definitely going to give it a whirl. Thanks!


----------



## mike8712




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/20339739
> 
> 
> There is no "enter". Once the V: is set to 76, you can then change the P: value.



Thanks Ratman - I was doing everything correct, but it was just the channel up and down keys on my original RCA remote are not responding, so it seemed like nothing was happening.


On a hunch, I tried to use my DirecTV remote and sure enough that did the trick. It worked great and I was able to correct a lot of the things that didn't look right. Now I just need to tweak the focus at the panel in the back and we'll be good to go. Thanks again.


----------



## mike8712

I had never looked at this before and it's been 10 years. Wow.


----------



## bigusmfan

If you are in the St. Louis area and would like a free, full functioning 38310, please contact me. You have to carry it away and, as you already know, it is heavy. But I will include the original remote and I believe I printed out the manual at some point.


----------



## xtype

I have one in southern Oregon if anyone wants it PM me for details.

I am moving to a house off-grid and my power setup will not be able to support this wonder.

I still feel that this is the best set for HD video games when properly calibrated. It will be sad to see it go but someone should enjoy it at least instead of having it gather dust.


----------



## ReverendDarkness

Snap!


I acquired one of these last year. In April, it did a little picture shimmie, turned into an ozone generator, then went black. I decided to move the giant ass whore of a TV to the garage until I could get rid of it.


A couple of weeks later, curiosity got the best of me, and I decided to plug her in and see what she would do. Well, she fired right up. No problems, great picture, no ozone. So I moved her giant ass back into her rightful spot in the living room.


Now she's gotten snappy.


Every once in a while, while watching, there is a snap and a screen flicker. If that doesn't occur while watching, then most of the time it will when powering it off. In those instances, I can see a little spark from inside the set, looks to be near the back of the tube assembly itself. I am no electronics expert, so I'm not sure.


Any advice? Am I looking at a power board issue? Or maybe a tube discharge issue?


Thanks in advance for any assistance.


----------



## Ratman

"giant ass whore"?

Great 1st post.


C'mon... it could be a number of issues. If your are very technical and patient, buy a service manual and try to repair. If not, recycle it.


Even if you think you know what you're doing, taking the back cover off is the easiest part. Isolating the problem, disassembly to replace a board/component is not for a novice. Reassembly is a trickier part.


If it were that easy to repair, this thread would be more lively.


----------



## neccrttv

ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S. Open the set up (unplug it first if you don't wanna die) and check the part number on the flyback transformer. But it should be a 250789 (T14700). If the TV still starts up, its always possible to us silicon to stop the High Voltage leak but i would not recommend it..


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neccrttv* /forum/post/20833997
> 
> 
> ReverendDarkness, your flyback transformer is obviously the culprit. It's the most common problem with RCA TV'S.



You could be correct, but a sick flyback is not a common problem with an F38310 (DTC306) specifically. So I would be cautious to state it's the "obvious" problem without personally seeing the set/symptoms.


Also, as a precaution, just because you unplug the set doesn't mean you can't get "zapped".


----------



## neccrttv

^You're right, its not a common problem. Rereading his post, it could be the tube that's shorting also, since it comes from the back of the tube and not the circuit.


Like Ratman says, DO NOT OPEN THE COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO DISCHARGE THE TUBE!

Especially if theres a high voltage leak. These TV's don't discharge themselves and you will be shocked if you touch the High voltage lead.


----------



## Prof.Moriarty

Hi, all! Glad to find a forum for RCA F38310 owners!


Mine started misbehaving a few weeks back and I made a very amateurish mistake when disassembling the set. I disconnected the black and white wires from the plastic block on the kine driver board (circuit board on the back of the tube) without labeling which goes in which hole. The holes are labeled "A" and "B" which is no help. I've searched through the pictures that I took of the set when taking it apart and all of those I could find on the net and can't find one at the correct angle to help me. Heat sinks always hide the connection. I've purchased the service manual and that wasn't any help. I've called local repair shops and they refuse to help unless I pay $100+ for a service call.


Would anyone be willing to take a look in their set and let me know which wire goes in which hole? A picture would be even better! If so, I would be eternally greatful! Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## enoree

Bought mine in 2002, gave it to my daughter and her husband 4 years ago, they use it everyday, never had any issues with it, picture still looks good.


----------



## JAWJABOY

What's the best way to connect an HDMI device to one of these?

I have an Acer AR1600 HTPC I would like to connect to it.


----------



## enigma9o7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAWJABOY* /forum/post/20915421
> 
> 
> What's the best way to connect an HDMI device to one of these?
> 
> I have an Acer AR1600 HTPC I would like to connect to it.



Can't connect HDMI to one of these. Use component video and analog(stereo) audio instead. (Alternatively run hdmi or spdif to your receiver for sound). If you don't have component output on yoru htpc, buy a new video card. (Or alternatively a new tv).


----------



## Ratman

Or... HDFury. That supposedly converts HDMI to component.


----------



## RCA don

It does. When my F38310 was my primary TV, I used an HDFURY II to connect my Blu-ray player and dvd recorder to it. The combination facilitated upconversion to 108i from both players and produced a significantly better and more detailed picture.


----------



## JAWJABOY

How's the HDFury compare to a non converted component signal?


----------



## RCA don

The highest resolution you get with a straight component connection is 480P. The HDFURY enables upconversion to 1080i through the RCA's component inputs. You get the next best thing to true high definition instead of an SD signal. The result is a significantly better picture. the purpose of the HDFURY is to permit the dvd player to recognize an HDMI device. Blu-ray or upscaling DVD players will only upconvert to 1080i(or P which the RCA 38310 can't display) via an HDMI connection.


----------



## enigma9o7




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RCA don* /forum/post/20929268
> 
> 
> The highest resolution you get with a straight component connection is 480P.



You are mistaken. Component supports up to 1080i.


I get 1080i no problem with a straight component connection. My PC, Dish HD DVR, and BD player are hooked up to my tv that way (with my receiver acting as a switchbox).


----------



## RCA don

I neglected to add the phrase "from an upconverting DVD player" to my statement. You're right with the exception that a DVD upconverting player will only move the resolution of a standard DVD up to 1080i(or 1080p if the TV is capable of displaying it) through an HDMI connection. The HDFURY provides that connection.


----------



## neccrttv

^ Yeah, component is able to display even 1080p. It depends on the TV and the output signal. I have seen many TV's that weren't 1080p thorugh HDMI and could accept 1080p through component. Component is as good (i find even better) than HDMI. The advantage of HDMI is sound and having one cable







. If a console or DVD could output higher than 1080p, component could accept it easily. The only problem would be with the TV. A monitor like my Xp37 Xtra would be the only kind of set able to display it easily.


----------



## nail92

Well, my JX4 with a DTV306GCB finally gave up on me! Suspect a power supply problem, but have not troubleshot yet other than a visual inspection. I see that RCA used to sell a DTV306KIT that included the following parts -

DTV306 Repair Kit

> : Contains :

> : T14600 - 243860 - Transformer

> : Q14601 - 258229 - P4NC60 Kit

> : Q14602 - 147665 - MPS8599

> : Q14603 - 232218 - MPSA05

> : U14603 - 231525 - IC

> : R14603 - w/258229

> : CR14611 - 234048 - diode

> : CR14613 - 236168 - zener diode

> : CR14615 - 227887 - diode

My visual inspection didn't show anything obvious with these parts. My question would be - am I on the right track?

I also looked at CR14710 and it was a bit dull from heat, but didn't look to be badly burned.


----------



## JAWJABOY

I'm trying out one of the HDView boxes now.

I use XBMC on my htpc.

I have Windows 7 and XBMC both set at 1920x1080

On windows 7 desktop the display is scrambled.

I have tried all sorts of different refresh rates and nothing seems to work so far.

However, when my htpc loads XBMC it syncs up and gives me a picture.

Any ideas what's going on?


----------



## JAWJABOY

Is there a way to force NTSC on windows 7 desktop?


----------



## Mr.Victor

Mine has been working fine since 2001. We've now replaced it with a larger flat panel. I'm in the SW suburbs of Chicago. If anyone wants it they can come by and pick it up. Just send me a PM.


----------



## JAWJABOY




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/20098521
> 
> 
> It's been a long time for me using the service menus, but keep trying and be careful.
> 
> The bottom line is that you can't change anything until you get enter the "76" passcode.
> 
> I don't know what you may be doing incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Once you get past the passcode, the following post explain the parameters to adjust position adjustments. Just read more of the posts in this thread.
> 
> http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpo...58&postcount=5
> 
> 
> Found this from an earlier post:
> 
> Horizontal size (P:05)
> 
> Horizontal position (P:04)
> 
> Vertical size (P:11)
> 
> Veritical position (P:10 course)
> 
> Vertical position (P:13 fine)
> 
> pincushion/parabola (P:07)
> 
> Top corners - pincushion (P:09)



I'm need to adjust these settings for the component input but all I can get are P1 and P0 when component is selected.


Is there any way to do it?


---


I figured it out.

I had to send 1 standard 1080i signal to the TV and then it allowed me to get to the other settings.


----------



## JAWJABOY




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJoe* /forum/post/3994041
> 
> 
> Sorry, radicon, I didn't get an email saying new posts were made, so my response is slow...
> 
> 
> First, you might read the chipper check instruction manual:
> http://www.thomsonnetwork.com/documents/Training.pdf
> 
> 
> Second, you must have already looked at the chapter from the service menu on alignment procedures:
> http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf
> 
> 
> That's all I know. Unfortunately I can't remember what was done (if anything) about convergence when I had it ISF'd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my set:
> 
> 
> Well, I bit the bullet and bought the electronics out of a dead F38310 (Lurch's set). I paid WAY too much (including the repair cost, I probably could have bought a working replacement with shipping on Ebay), and have no guarantee that the board I need is working. Supposedly the DM1 Power Supply is dead. He told me that he thought the other parts (the DM1 module, the I/O Board I need, the maine power board, the kine board, etc) were OK. I hope he wasn't bs-ing me -- if he is, I suppose I can contest the credit card charge.
> 
> 
> On this subject, Aviators99, see if you can find out which board/component is bad on your set. If it is a different board than I need, maybe I can make a deal to help cut my cost. Maybe you can settle and retain the set -- and pay for the part of of the settlement. Or maybe cc or the servicer would be willing to buy the part off me. Anyone else looking for parts?
> 
> 
> Anyways, I should get the parts in a week (UPS Ground, Oakland to Central Maine), and then my servicer will swap the board in and see if it works.
> 
> 
> Joe



I wanted to download the alignment PDF but the link no longer works.
http://www.manitoupark.com/public/Section3_1-10.pdf 

Could someone please upload it or tell me another link.


----------



## JAWJABOY

Thankfully the Internet Archive Wayback Machine had a backup:
http://web.archive.org/web/200601060...tion3_1-10.pdf 


I have also uploaded it here if anyone else needs it.

 

Section3_1-10.pdf 158.380859375k . file


----------



## JAWJABOY

*Could someone please tell me what the "Screen" adjustment (3rd Hole) is for?*




> Quote:



*Could someone please tell me what the "Screen" adjustment (3rd Hole) is for?*


----------



## JAWJABOY

If you are using this with a HTPC like me get the attached test pattern and put it in a folder by itself.

Open the folder and right click and "preview the file"

Then hit F11 to make it full screen.

Put a big mirror a couple of feet in front of the TV and go around back of the TV

Stare at the vertical and horizontal lines in the center circle.

Use Focus 1 to make the vertical lines as thin as possible.

Use Focus 2 to make the horizontal lines as thin as possible.

Repeat Focus 1 and Focus 2 at least 3 or 4 times.

You will be impressed with the results!


I tried lightly turning the third "screen" adjustment but it doesn't seem necessary.


Now the only other thing I might do is try degaussing the screen but it isn't bad enough to make worry about it too much.


----------



## awilsodo

After hanging on for too long, I've got to let my F38310 go. I have no room for it. If anyone wants it, I'm in Holland, MI.

Can't find the CR14710, diode, stock number: 243846 anywhere. It fried.

Best TV I ever had, unappreciated because of its size these days.

Let me know if you want it to fix or for parts, otherwise its off to recycle land









Is there any point in removing the HD receiver before scrapping?


----------



## Ratman

FWIW, you may be able to get the part here:
http://www.hbfelectronics.com/index....item_id=415530 
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Thomso...43846/New.aspx 
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...EVISION&blt=11


----------



## JAWJABOY

Well, I guess all good things must come to an end.

You know that small greenish vertical line in the center of the screen when you first turn on the set?

That's all I get now.

And it just stays there whether I turn the set on or off.


----------



## awilsodo

After discovering it would cost $0.15 per pound to "recycle" large TVs locally, I found a local TV repair shop who agreed to take it off my hands, fix and sell it or donate it to a church.

Thanks for this forum over the years!


----------



## rt909

I have a working F38310 that I am trying to get rid of to make way for new TV. Free to pickup in Northern VA. Please bring in extra help to carry this 200lb TV. You can have the stand that is made specially for this TV


I will post the odometer once I figure out how to do it.


----------



## dstew100

Periodic lurker here, post at times.


I recently looked at my 10 year old f38310 and said, maybe its time to go bigger, newer, flatter, and lighter. Lets research, so I dug around allot here and some other sites.


Motion blur, burn in, limited viewing angles, good blacks but bad whites, good whites but bad blacks, good movies but bad sports, 480 content looks terrible, good video games but..., good sports but...


OMG my 10 year old HDCRT IMO has none of these problems, WTF are the consumers excepting. I'm wondering how I can score something like what I have but bigger and it's not clear I can even get something close in my budget? However, my 38 16x9 CRT is running fine whilst crushing video quality all over best buy's floor. Allot of the tail end of this thread is "my F38310 just died". I understand I'll have my day too, but my research has told me to re-appreciate my beast. And yes I have moved her 4 times, including an upstairs pad (wow I had to dig deep on that one), and back down. Make sure you got the right buddy with you and half the load isn't a problem for yourself.


CRT vs LCD or Plasma thread is very interesting. As is the Plasma vs LCD thread.


When my day comes for my F38310 to retire, so shall tears flow from my eyes. That picture is gorgeous, and I am loving it as my primary TV still.


What do I have to spend to rival this picture and is plasma the only option to getting there?


----------



## Chitown Oldie

Hi all, just joined this forum and am wondering if there's anyone followiing this F38310 thread anymore? Or should I post questions to the general 'direct view' area?


thx


----------



## Matt L

Any specific questions? Many like me are still sub'd to the thread. I still have my 38310 but I have not used it in a few months. I think it's still something to behold.


----------



## Chitown Oldie

Thx for the reply and glad there's still interest in the best PQ monitor there is.


My JX5 bought 02/02 just turned 10yo, and except for the tuner going out 6mo's ago, hasn't given me any prob's. Trying to fix the tuner prob. led me to this forum, and gave me courage to pull the cover off. Very dusty/dirty! The cap's on the boards are the upgraded one's, no burns or oozing. Thinking last summers violent storms fried the tuner (along with my wireless router).


Did the service menu check, and at eeprom it said avdec=ok, tuner=ok what?? so much for that test... Tried unplugging for 2hrs and retuning on both antenna's but still no channels found.


odometer reads 22,958 with act.date of 11/03, but that's when I first used D*TV so must have lost a couple of years of readings.


Having gone through every post, using search, down-loading Dr. Joe's, etc., etc., so many of the links are dead, so...


I still can't seem to find out if the tuner fan can be disabled. The noise is so bad while watching...and don't want to blare the sound to drown it out. For that matter, would like to pull the whole tuner since I have a digital stb for ota. Possible??? Seems I read that all the inputs are running through it...


Any thoughts, ideas, links, pics, would be appreciated.


----------



## LordSte

I loved this set. Bought it new in 2002 for $1650 at Best Buy. The internal tuner (forgot its numbers) went bad in 2003. After a 2 month part delay, Best Buy called me and told me I could get a new "comparable" TV instead. I said "no", I'd rather wait for the part since there is nothing else like this set. Went dead again in 2007. Took it to a local mom & pop shop for repair (extended warranty was over in 2006). They worked on it for a long time (3 months), and never gave me updates. I always had to call them. Eventually, I stopped calling and never heard from them again. It was very strange because they had (and still have) such a good reputation. I ended up finding a KD-34XBR960 on Craigslist because I didn't want to deal with it anymore. Still don't know whatever happened to my TV...


The 38" size was perfect for my viewing distance. The loss of 4" definitely is noticeable even now. However, I'm glad I ended up with the Sony. The main reason is due to an extremely annoying flaw with the RCA. Back then I didn't know what caused it, but I do now. The deinterlacer constantly tripped up on 240p video content commonly used by older video game consoles. Newer games that used 480i worked fine. So on my Dreamcast it worked fine with Soul Calibur, but tripped up on Capcom vs SNK. I played tons of old video games on there and the glitch would always drive me nuts. Imagine playing Super Mario Bros and while you're running across the screen, the picture freezes for a split second and then goes normal. Imagine this every 5-10 seconds.


There are a couple other minor reasons:

1.) Having an HDMI input is nice, but without owning a Blu-ray player it's hardly necessary.

2.) Being able to accept external 720p signals is also a plus. I use XBMC a lot and it runs like butt when rendering in 1080i instead of 720p.

3.) I used to use the 1394 port on the Sony to record to D-VHS.


Despite all that, the F38310 was great for OTA HD, DVDs, and newer video games. I think I still have the remote and the super thick AC power cord lying around somewhere.


----------



## dstew100

I have loved, used, and transported my RCA FS38310 for a long long time (over 10 years i'm pretty sure). I think it died last night. Come on, one of you ninjas can tell me how to fix her.


While watching cable HDTV the TV switched off then on real quick. It came back on just fine. About an hour later it started cycling off and on rather quickly. The cycle is approx... On, .2 sec with little light in center of screen, off, .7 sec, repeat. I was tired and didn't want to mess with it but I dabbled a little last night and today.


Last night, while it was cycling on and off, I tried hitting power on remote and on the set and nothing changed, still cycling. I pulled the plug waited a few minutes, and plugged it back in. After the click after a few seconds of having power I pushed the power button and it started cycling on and off never fully lighting up the screen. I pulled the plug and went to bed. Retested 12 hours later and same result. Different power jack (not sure if different switchbox fuse) same result. Tried plugging in and getting to diagnostics (info, menu/ok, right volume+) and nothing. It can never power up enough to get there.


I've started digging through this thread to see if I can find any similar situations, still have a ways to go. Does anyone have any ideas what may be wrong or suggestions for me? I'm broke, and I love this TV, I'd love to get her working again.


Thanks for any help anyone may be able to provide


----------



## Chitown Oldie

You and I must be the only ones still using this crt. From what I remember going thru the thread, your problem is probably the high tension board, bad caps/resistors?. Search on something like that and you'll see a lot of posts. The caps and resistors are still available, but you'd need a shop if you're not set up to diagnose it.


Was the tuner working before this happened? If yes and you decide to trash the set, I'd be interested in taking the DM-1.


----------



## dstew100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chitown Oldie* /forum/post/21754457
> 
> 
> You and I must be the only ones still using this crt. From what I remember going thru the thread, your problem is probably the high tension board, bad caps/resistors?. Search on something like that and you'll see a lot of posts. The caps and resistors are still available, but you'd need a shop if you're not set up to diagnose it.
> 
> 
> Was the tuner working before this happened? If yes and you decide to trash the set, I'd be interested in taking the DM-1.



Thanks for the info, I'll do the search and read up but I think I'm going to buy a plasma. This has been a great set for me. I loved the picture quality and even though I paid the Best Buy 3k top dollar price within 6 months of graduating college, I've been very happy with the purchase. This is the first issue I have had with it(well sometimes it didn't like synching between resolution switches but I can always get it working quickly); it's never been to a shop or been opened up. I hate to see her go.


I saw a great deal on a panasonic tc-p55st30, cheaper than the 46 inch variant of this model line tonight in Target, even lower than the online prices I've seen. I think I'm pulling the trigger on it tomorrow.


As far as the Tuner goes I'm fairly certain it still works. I haven't gone over the air in about two years though but it was working then. I'm on a cable box now so???? The Satellite box has never been used. I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff, I'd need some real straight forward step by step, or you can find a shop around me to pull it for you. I think my buddy has a buddy who does TV stuff You're welcome to the whole set, I'm in Hampton Roads area of Virginia, but I am getting rid of it tomorrow so we got to figure this out. My buddies supposed to come help me haul it away at 4. I'll PM you my number.


----------



## dstew100

DM-1 and some other parts pulled for Chitown, 38310 sadly is gone, 55inch plasma is here, and break in slide show started. Sad to see this great set go but this enormous picture is looking pretty sexy.


Those of you still running the beast, take good care of her and appreciate the beauty.


----------



## [email protected]

Hello all - wondering if I could get some help - I received this tv about 5 years ago and its been working great - not a ton of hours viewing and I love the picture - I use a different Directv HD receiver on it btw, not the integrated one....anyway, I have been hearing a "waterfall" sound from the back of the tv. This is not the fan running but sounds like water is running back there. I know its not really water but thats the best way to describe what I hear. Turning it on and off doesn't make it go away. ( from the remote - haven't unplugged it yet). The tv works fine btw, no picture issues at all.


Doe anyone know what I may be hearing or what the tv is doing?


Thanks in advance for any assistance


----------



## Matt L

There is a fan that runs 24/7 and odds are that is what you are hearing, I bet the bearings went bad in it. Or, perhaps something got stuck in the blades. If you are adventurous and are familiar with the insides of TV sets you may want to open it up, but beware there are high voltages present.


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you - will search for instructions and a schematic - if I have someone come out to do this repair for me, do you know what the typical charge would be?


----------



## Ratman

I'd estimate ~$75 for a service call for a diagnosis/estimate, which is usually applied to the repair.


Then I'd estimate ~$125 per hour plus parts (if needed).


----------



## Pepiano_1

Hello everybody!

I have been reading through this thread because I have found an RCA F38310 on craigslist for $100 and wanted to know more about it before I go buy it. It sounds like people either love or hate this model. I was thinking this would be a cheap alternative for an hdtv. What do you guys think? I really cant afford a decent new hdtv so I thought this one would be a good starting point. I want to use it for video gaming, watching cable, and watching dvds/blurays. I am hesitant to get a cheap hdtv due to how crappy some game systems run on the new tvs. I am not afraid of the size and my brother works on tvs as a hobby so I should be able to get most minor problems resolved. Like Fan problems, capacitors, etc.. The guy I am buying it from says it works great and has no problems but I want to make sure before I haul its 220lbs around. Anybody have any tips on things to check when I go look at it? I saw the post about how to run the diagnostic and check the odometer. Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated. Also I am getting the stand with it. I think this has the potential to be a great deal. I just hope it doesn't break down right away.I am expecting at least a year or two out of it seeing as its getting old. All my friends think I am crazy for buying a tv that old and heavy but hopefully I will have the last laugh.


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## Matt L

If it's working now, odds are it will keep on working. Many of the issues posted here happened fairly early on in the life cycle of the the set. I'd say it's a decent entry point for HD, I got mine over 10 years ago at a price well north of $2k, and it resides in my basement rec room and still gets occasional use. I had a handful of problems over the years but not enough to turn me off this set.


Depending on how adventurous you are, you can get into the settings and tweak the picture a bit and get a stunning image. But even as is it's still a good performer. Provide it with a good signal and you will be quite happy.


BTW, you might want to scout for an older Blu Ray player with component outs, as this set does not have any HDMI connections. Blu rays look fantastic on this set.


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## Ratman

One drawback will be that the F38310 only has one set of component inputs. So... if you have a DVD player, gaming systems and a cable box, you will need a component video switch.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=1


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## Pepiano_1

Yeah I noticed that, so until I get a switch box I am gonna have a fun time switching things back and forth. But hopefully it will be worth it. I am so sick of playing games on my ps3 and not being able to read instructions on the screen. They don't take us old tv owners into consideration.


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## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pepiano_1* /forum/post/21957562
> 
> 
> They don't take us old tv owners into consideration.



No, not really. New TV owners don't always consider the drawbacks of using a 12 year old HDTV.


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## Pepiano_1

I am kind of confused about component cables. Why is it I usually see component cables as having 3 video cables and 2 audio cables, but on some cables and inputs I see an extra cable. Is that like a digital audio cable or something else?


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## Ratman

Component video cables are red, green and blue. Only carries video.


Analog audio is Red and white. Only carries audio.


Digital audio is carried on either a digital coax or optical cable.

The F38310 has an optical output.


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## Pepiano_1

If you look at the inputs on the back of this switch box, what is the extra input next to the audio plugs? Also I have seen xbox component cables that have six cable ends instead of the normal 5. That is what I was trying to ask about.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=1


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## Ratman

The sixth connector is for digital coax (S/PDIF), if needed. If you look at the back panel of the switch in the link you provided, you will see that the orange is labelled "Digital".


Also, by reading the description of that particular product, it states:


> Quote:
> Expand the Component video, digital, and analog audio inputs of your TV set!
> 
> 
> 
> Features:
> 
> - Supports Component Video, Digital (Coaxial, S/PDIF) *5.1 and (RCA) Analog stereo audio signals.


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## peterbilt

In the case of those Xbox cables, my guess is that you're seeing a composite video cable there, not a coax audio cable. There are lots of third-party products out there, so I'm just guessing, but of the ones I've seen, there are two tails, each with three cables. One is the component video (blue, green, red) and the other is the standard A/V connections (red, white, yellow).


This configuration allows you to connect to an HDTV or a non-HDTV using the same cable. The expectation is that some connection(s) will go unused. For HDTVs, it's the yellow composite video connection. For SDTVs, is the component video connections.


Xbox 360 supports optical digital audio and HDMI, but not coax audio. I have used a component video switching receiver (Panasonic XR55) with this TV for several years and it's worked out very well. DirecTV HD DVR, Wii and Xbox 360 all connected with full HD and DD 5.1 support. There are also receivers that will convert HDMI signals to component that could be used with this TV. I have used switchboxes in the past as well, but find the receiver route to be an all-around better experience.


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## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peterbilt* /forum/post/21966212
> 
> 
> This configuration allows you to connect to an HDTV or a non-HDTV using the same cable. The expectation is that some connection(s) will go unused. For HDTVs, it's the yellow composite video connection. For SDTVs, is the component video connections.



There are some SDTVs with component inputs for DVD players and such. My Sony KV-20FS120 is like that (but oddly enough no s-video







).


Yeah I see your point - the 6 wire cable would have 3 component, 1 composite, and 2 stereo wires. Makes universal sense.


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## iontek

Picked up my F38310 JX4 about 7 years ago, had to take it in to shop about 4 years ago; device on pcb that connects to yoke started arcing. Shop was able to get it working, but didn't get over-scan setup right... i.e. could not read entire football score box in upper left corner, and sometimes TV would get black lines across screen and occasionally do a power reset when scene on screen was all white... Not worth transporting 200+ pounds of tv back to shop... Picture has been slowly "moving" to left (standard def grey sidebar on left getting smaller, one on right getting wider) Now set will not sync to any source higher than 480p. 480p picture still looks great. If I can fix it myself will see how long the beast will keep running! Hoping I can set over-scan, etc. settings and get it back to 100%


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## mike8712

Overall my picture quality is still very nice, but I have the same issues with text and scores on screen - they can get very blurry. If there is an easy fix, please post. I've adjusted the screws in the back of the set once before about a year ago, but it did not really clear anything up - I fine-tuned those but it is still blurry.


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## nabsltd

I'm still using my F38310 that I purchased 10 years ago this month. Mine was a refurb that had all the fixes applied before I bought it, and I think that has really kept it going...everything works and it's still subbed to DirecTV. Blu-Rays look great on it, even with only the component inpujt. I think It is still better than most displays currently available until you start to climb up into the $1K price range.


But, I'll be retiring it soon as my wife has ordered a Panasonic P55VT50 for my birthday, and there is no place else in the house that it will fit.


I'm in the DC area, and when the new TV is in place, I'm planning on giving the F38310 to anybody who wants to come haul it away.


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## DyeLooper

But, I'll be retiring it soon as I will get a new TV soon and there is no place else in the house that it will fit.


I'm in the Baltimore area, and when the new TV is in place, I'm planning on giving the F38310 to anybody who wants to come haul it away.


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## DyeLooper

New panny is home,and The RCA has got to go. Who wants to haul it away........


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## DyeLooper

Bump....................


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## Ratman

Advertise the TV on Craigslist as "FREE".


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## ppasteur




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper*  /t/280931/how-are-rca-f38310-owners-doing/1170#post_22577924
> 
> 
> New panny is home,and The RCA has got to go. Who wants to haul it away........



See if they have a freecycle group on yahoo for your area.

we have deverfreecycle I listed it for free and a couple of guys came and got it within a day.


Check on

http://groups.freecycle.org/ 


Phil


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## DyeLooper

All right, FREE TV HERE W/STAND, Come and get it. Hit me up....... Oh yea, STILL WORKS...


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## DyeLooper

Gone, she will be missed... But she found a new home..


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## enigma9o7

Still going strong...


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## edge10


Mine just won't die either.

 

It had a repair in the 1st year and since, solid as a rock.


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## ms.orville

We are finally giving it away....she still works and has a wonderful picture, but moving it with us is out of the question. It will find a new home with young, strong souls who can hoist it out of my house. I'm too darned old now to even consider it.


Blessed be, F38310! You've been a good member of the family.


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## edge10

We just moved approximately 1000 miles. 

DM1 fan doesn't seem to be running. Unit now cycles it's power off then on every few minutes (5-30?).
I did take off the back and clean it out some. The other two fans are running but I can't see the one for the DM1 and don't see how to take it out to look at it. 

Does anyone have any resources?

Thanks in advance!


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## enigma9o7

Wow... and I was thinking next time I move the TV isn't moving with me! Although still running strong and our primary living room tv...


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## edge10

Since the electronics are beyond me (and I don't see any current online sources) I think she is about ready for the ash heap.

Still a great set, with the exception of the current problem, but it's probably not worth paying to fix.


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## enigma9o7

Finally moving, and nobody even wants to buy this! Had tv&stand on sfbay craigslist a month, now down to $65 the past couple weeks and still no takers. I guess nobody loves this TV anymore...


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## Floydage

I remember a gal here had a hard time selling a nice condition Loewe version for $20 (started at $50). And that was a few years ago. Just so darn heavy.

Might try the video gaming section if one exists on CL.


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## enigma9o7

I guess so. I've lowered more and still no takers. I just have it in electronics area, I assume video games go there too. I don't have a game console anymore but I'd expect the new ones are HDMI only anyway, not component, so doubt they'd want it - although only a guess based on newer bdplayers and videocards not having component output anymore. [I looked for a new BDPlayer recently as my model doesn't support 5.1 or subtitles for netflix, and can't use roku or firestick etc for similar reasons, no HDMI - and last time I was upgrading my desktop PC I looked for a new video card for and none of the new ones seemed to have component output anymore, so I still use my old 8600gts)]

If anyone in sfbay area happens to want the stand only, free pickup, PM me.


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## gus738

enigma9o7 said:


> Finally moving, and nobody even wants to buy this! Had tv&stand on sfbay craigslist a month, now down to $65 the past couple weeks and still no takers. I guess nobody loves this TV anymore...



don't sell it I would keep it - - - mine is still functional you can play everything up to the ps3 and 360 So for stuthat never made it tothat never made it to blu-raywill look excellent on this tv buy another flat screen if it's an issue with size and put the RCA away


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## enigma9o7

I have blu-ray for player for it already. But no room. Moving next weekend too. So it may end up being left if nobody buys it.


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## GS kid

I saw this thread with new posts and just had to comment.

I had the Proscan version (PS38000) of this set in late 2001. I got it open box, which shaved a couple hundred off the price. Loved this set cuz it was the largest 16:9 1080i tube television ever made. Lasted 6 months and it died. Had a 3 year extended warranty on it and they replaced capacitors and diodes. Still didn't work right. They replaced the main circuit board and it still had issues. They took it back and gave me a full refund... which I promptly put towards the just released (circa 2002) Sony 34xbr800 flat-tube 1080i set. 

The big deal about the 34xbr800 that sold me on it was the fact it was about the only set at the time that would up-convert 720p to 1080i through it's component & DVI inputs... which I wanted for the handful of original Xbox games that had a 720p output option.

I'm just shocked to hear that any of these 38-inch RCA/Proscan TVs are still running today after so many died an early death.


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## gus738

GS kid said:


> I saw this thread with new posts and just had to comment.
> 
> I had the Proscan version (PS38000) of this set in late 2001. I got it open box, which shaved a couple hundred off the price. Loved this set cuz it was the largest 16:9 1080i tube television ever made. Lasted 6 months and it died. Had a 3 year extended warranty on it and they replaced capacitors and diodes. Still didn't work right. They replaced the main circuit board and it still had issues. They took it back and gave me a full refund... which I promptly put towards the just released (circa 2002) Sony 34xbr800 flat-tube 1080i set.
> 
> The big deal about the 34xbr800 that sold me on it was the fact it was about the only set at the time that would up-convert 720p to 1080i through it's component & DVI inputs... which I wanted for the handful of original Xbox games that had a 720p output option.
> 
> I'm just shocked to hear that any of these 38-inch RCA/Proscan TVs are still running today after so many died an early death.


CRTs were built to last flat screens are built to be replaced


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## Valnar

I would love to find one in good shape. If anyone is near Ohio let me know.


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## Floydage

I suspect Thomson Consumer Electronics (ugh) for these but I got the impression this model was pretty good per this thread; bigger higher-end model.


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## Ratman

The Proscan, RCA and Loewe 38" all used the same Thomson picture tube.
Once the problematic caps/diodes were properly replaced, it was a good set (at the time).

I bought a used F38310 for my son ~10 years ago. It's still working and looking fine.


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## enigma9o7

And nobody wants mine  I even offered to sell my bluray disc player along with it since new ones these days don't have the HD component output needed for this TV.

If anyone reading this wants to pick it up (sfbay area) you can have it free. I'll even help you load it. I'm moving out this weekend and don't want to find room for it at new place. I just want it to have a good home. Maybe goodwill/etc would pick it up or something, there's gotta be someone who wants it. I mean this is a friggen awesome TV! I bought a Samsung 50" F85000 Plasma to replace it for the new place, hoping I'm not too disappointed after being spoiled with this thing, that was the best flatscreen I could justify spending my money on, can't quite afford OLED yet.


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## gus738

.where are you located


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## Floydage

Or splurge on this Loewe version 'great deal':

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/5280835188.html

I hadn't seen this ad in maybe a couple of years, then it was $1000. There was a pic of the TV, appeared to be sitting in their office although I suspect they claim they didn't use it. Does look brand new in the pic.


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## Valnar

gus738 said:


> .where are you located


NE Ohio.


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## Floydage

gus738 said:


> .where are you located


Fort Worth, Texas. 

I suspect you were replying to enigma with the freebie in the sfbay area. Probably PM him for details for privacy/security purposes.


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## gullzway

GS kid said:


> I'm just shocked to hear that any of these 38-inch RCA/Proscan TVs are still running today after so many died an early death.


My RCA still runs like a champ, though it's in the bedroom and rarely gets turned on. 
I replaced my living room Samsung with the Sony 55x850C recently and am considering hanging the Samsung in the bedroom and selling/or giving the Beast away if I can find any takers. It just takes up too much room for hardly getting used anymore. :crying:


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## Matt L

Yup, mines still going strong, though it is little used in my rec room. I had some issues early on, but those were resolved and I tweaked the settings a bit and have a nice image.


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## rahoffman2

Valnar said:


> I would love to find one in good shape. If anyone is near Ohio let me know.


I've got a working model in Grand Haven Michigan, is that close enough?
It needs to be carried up stairs from the basement.
PM me.


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## Valnar

rahoffman2 said:


> I've got a working model in Grand Haven Michigan, is that close enough?
> It needs to be carried up stairs from the basement.
> PM me.


Hmmm 5 hours, maybe.
Got pics?


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## rahoffman2

Valnar said:


> Hmmm 5 hours, maybe.
> Got pics?


No, but I'll take some tonight. 
I can't PM you since I am just a lurker. Not enough posts to qualify. :/
Can You PM me your email address?


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## cvjanick

Valnar said:


> I would love to find one in good shape. If anyone is near Ohio let me know.


I have one available in Rochester, NY for someone willing to come pick it up. Odometer is over 50,000 hours purchased in summer 2002. Still working fine but just broke down and bought an HDR ready 4k UHD TV. This one will get some casual gaming use by my daughter until it dies or someone wants it. This TV was and is still awesome just big and heavy as everyone knows.


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## cvjanick

Valnar said:


> I would love to find one in good shape. If anyone is near Ohio let me know.


I have an RCA F38310 set available in Rochester, NY for someone willing to come pick it up. Odometer is over 50,000 hours purchased in summer 2002. Still working fine but just broke down and bought an HDR ready 4k UHD TV. This one will get some casual gaming use by my daughter until it dies or someone wants it. This TV was and is still awesome just big and heavy as everyone knows.


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## davidframe99

*RCA F38310 in LA*

I have a F38310 in Los Angeles that needs a new home too, with a component input switch box and cables, free.


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## gullzway

I just listed mine for free on craigslist. Still works like a champ.
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/ele/d/tulsa-free-38-hdtv-works-great/7022028264.html


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## ChrisPowers

If anyone ever visits this page who has the original stand for this TV, please let me know. I'd be super grateful if you'd be willing to sell me the glass doors and attachments for it before you toss the thing, as mine are broken.

Thanks,
Chris


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## Ratman

Late by 15 months.


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## GwenTheTVKid600

Do you still have the TV, Ratman?


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## Ratman

No.


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